# exped

expid: EVER19161
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Adrian Ballinger
sponsor: Alpenglow Everest North Research Expedition 2019
countries: USA
approach: Lhasa->Tingri->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-10
smtdate: 2019-05-24
termdate: 2019-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 8775m due to no intention to summit (doing research)
campsites: CBC(16/04,5200m),ABC(23/04,6400m),C1(29/04,7000m),C2(18/05,7800m),C3(22/05,8300m),xxx
agency: Himalaya Vision
routememo:
  8775m reached by Adrian Ballinger, John Griber, Jake Norton, Kenneth Sauls, Sid Pattison and Dave Morton. Team was doing research up high, never planned to summit.

  Conditions all season were challenging, primarily due to wind. Small summit window.

  This team used the Sherpas that were assigned to the other Alpenglow teams.


expid: EVER19163
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Lydia Bradey
sponsor: Alpenglow Lightning Ascent Everest North Expedition 2019
countries: USA
approach: Lhasa->Tingri-Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-05-12
smtdate: 2019-05-22
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2019-05-23
campsites: BC(18/04,5700m),ABC(23/05,6400m),C1(30/04,7000m),C2(21/05,7700m),C3(22/05,8300m),Smt(22/05)
achievment: Fastest time from home country to top to home country
agency: Himalaya Vision
primid: EVER19161
routememo:
  BC  5700m  18/04 (Bradey)  12/05 (Vogel)
  ABC 6400m  23/04           16/05
  C1  7000m  30/04           20/05
  C2  7700m  21/05           21/05
  C3  8300m  22/05           ---
  Smt 22/05  by Bradey, Vogel, Mingma Tshering, Pasang Rinji at 12 noon.

  Summit team left C2 at 2:45 am. They were behind the rope-fixing team and left late so they did not get in the way of the rope-fixing team. They were the only team with the rope fixers on that day. They took about 3 hours to reach C3. Conditions were rocky and dry. They had a cup of tea at C3, changed oxygen bottles and continued at about 6:15 am. The rope-fixing team summited around half an hour to 45 minutes ahead of them and they met them on their way down on the summit snow slopes. They spent about half an hour on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at 5 pm.

  On 23/05 they left C2 at 6:15 am and descended to ABC, where they arrived at 11 am. They packed up, ate, packed the yak and left for Chinese BC at 12:30 pm. They reached CBC at 7 pm, packed all their gear and left in a jeep for Shigatse at 9:30 pm. They reached Shigatse at 5:30 am on 24/05 and took a plane to Chengdu.

  Vogel landed in the USA exactly one hour short of 14 days since she left the USA for the expedition.

  Bradey arrived in Wanaka on 26/05.

  Oxygen:
    Used from North Col to top to North Col by members
    Ffrom C2 to top to C2 by Sherpas (4 l/min)

  Sherps:
    Mingma Tshering, Phortse, 26/04/1972
    Pasang Rinji, Phortse, 18/01/1977


expid: EVER19164
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Cory Richards, Topo Mena
sponsor: Alpenglow New Route Everest Expedition 2019
countries: Ecuador
approach: Lhasa->Tingri->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-16
smtdate: 2019-05-22
termdate: 2019-05-28
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(16/04,5200m),ABC(26/04,6400m),C1(22/05,7300m),xxx(22/05,7600m)
agency: Himalaya Vision
primid: EVER19161
routememo:
  Richards and Mena acclimatized on the normal route for three rotations. Tagged 7k twice, spent two nights at the North Col and tagged 7600m once. First tag of 7k happened on our intended new route. We spent a night at 7300m on an open bivy on our final attempt. No GPS coordinates were taken.

  The intended route ascends the central couloir to the base of the second Pinnacle. Conditions were not the problem but proved hard. Not major objective hazard.


expid: EVER19165
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiroyuki Kuraoka
sponsor: Hiro Everest Expedition 2019
approach: Lhasa->Shigatse->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-22
smtdate: 2019-05-23
termdate: 2019-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to strong winds, bad (rocky) conditions and too many people
campsites: BC(22/04,5150m),ABC(29/04,6400m),C1(21/05,7050m),C2(22/05,7630m),xxx(23/05,7800m),xxx
agency: Himalaya Vision
routememo:
  Team abandoned at 7800m due to strong winds, bad (rocky) conditions and too many people.

  Oxygen:
    From ABC to high point to ABC by members
    From C2 to high point to C2 by Sherpas.


expid: EVER19167
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Luis Stitzinger
sponsor: Furtenbach Adventures Classic Everest North Expedition 2019
countries: Austria, Norway, USA
approach: Lhasa->Tingri->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-16
smtdate: 2019-05-24
smttime: 0520
termdate: 2019-05-26
campsites: BC(16/04,5700m),ABC(25/04,6400m),C1(01/05,7000m),C2(22/05,7700m),C3(23/05,8300m),Smt(24/05)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  BC  16/04  5700m
  ABC 25/04  6400m
  C1  01/05  7000m
  C2  22/05  7700m
  C3  23/05  8300m
  Smt 24/05  by Berner and Sherpa at 5:20 am; Desota and Sherpa at 5:30 am; 
             Haas, Jelinek, Baldy, Eckhoff, Kjoelvik, Stitzinger and SIX Sherpa
             at 5:35 am.

  Summit team left C3 at 9:45 pm. It was not so busy on that day. About 60 people on the route. Clear and calm in the morning later in the afternoon about 30km/h wind. They spent about half an hour on the summit and descended to ABC, where they arrived between 4 pm and 7 pm. On 25/05 to CBC. Berner descended all the way to CBC, where he arrived at 8.30 pm. Team left BC on 26/05.

  Mueller reached ABC on 25/04. He did not feel up to the climb and left ABC on 03/05.

  Oxygen:
    Used from crampon point (6650m) to top to North Col by members
    From C2 to top to C1 by Stitzinger; from C1 to top to C1 by Sherpas.


expid: EVER19168
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Lukas Furtenbach, Rupert Hauer
sponsor: Furtenbach Adventures Flash Everest North Expedition 2019
countries: France, Norway, Switzerland
approach: Lhasa->Tingri->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-29
smtdate: 2019-05-23
smttime: 0530
termdate: 2019-05-25
campsites: BC(29/04,5700m),ABC(02/05,6400m),C1(20/05,7000m),C2(21/05,7700m),C3(22/05,8300m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  BC  29/04  5700m
  ABC 02/05  6400m
  C1  20/05  7000m
  C2  21/05  7700m
  C3  22/05  8300m
  Smt 23/05  by Rageth, Picard, Furtenbach plus SIX Sherpa at 5:30 am, 
             Bulgurlu, Jousset, De Longevialle, Hauer and SEVEN Sherpa at 6:30 am.

  Summit team left C3 at 9:30 pm. Busy day, but on the ascent it was calm so waiting was not so much a problem. They spent about 15 minutes on the summit. Furtenbach, Rageth, Hauer down to ABC, where they arrived at 6:30 pm. All other members down to C1. On 24/05 down to ABC and same day CBC. On 25/05 the members (apart from Hauer and Furtenbach) left BC.

  Oxygen:
    Used from crampon point (6650m) to top to ABC by members
    From C1 to top to C1 by Hauer, Furtenbach and Sherpas.


expid: EVER19169
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Shekhar Babu Bachinepally
sponsor: Transcend Adventures Everest North Expedition 2019
countries: Australia, UK
approach: Lhasa->Tingri->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-18
smtdate: 2019-05-23
smttime: 0335
termdate: 2019-04-30
agency: Arun Treks/Transcend Adventure
campsites:
  BC(18/04,5000m),IC(25/04),ABC(26/06,6400m),C1(30/04,7000m),C2(21/05,7900m),C3(22/05,8300m),Smt(23/05)

routememo:
  CBC 18/04  5000m
  IC  25/04
  ABC 16/04  6400m
  C1  30/04  7100m
  C2  21/05  7900m
  C3  22/05  8300m
  Smt 23/05  by 10 members and 12 Sherpas.

  The lead team started its summit push at 7:15 pm from C3 on 22 May followed by other team members. The first member of the team reached summit at 3:35 am (NST) and last one and the last one at 7:30 am. They stayed on the summit 10-15 minutes and returned to C3 around 8 am and last at around 1:30 pm. All members reached ABC between 5 pm and 9 pm.

  23 May summiters:
    Ravindra Kumar
    Hemalata Aambaas Gaikwad/Ms.
    Chandrakala Uttam Gavit/Ms.
    Antubai Adnandrao Kotnake/Ms.
    Suraj Deoraq Aade
    Sugriv Atmaram Mande
    Munna Sabulal Dhikar
    Mahohar Gopal Hilim
    Ketan Sitaram Jadhav
    Anil Pandurang Kunde

  High Point on 23 May:
    Sushma Vasudev/Ms. - She had to turn around from around 8400m, her hands 
      and feet started getting cold
    Shivacharan Bisram Bhilavekar - He turned around from Mushroom due to headache

  Team on 24 May
    Amit Kumar Jina, British
    Sai Krishna Reddy Gannu
    Vamini Sethi/Ms.

  This team of three started from 2 and turned around from 8300m due to bad weather forecast.

  Rajendra Madan Sura, Australian - High point was CIV [?].

  The expedition has total number of 22 members of which 16 were for climbing; rest were as follows:

    Shekhar Babu Bachinepally, Leader
    Vidur Vij, Camera crew
    Sridharan Thiruvengadathan, Visit ABC only
    Aarati Abhay Kelkar/Dr./Ms., Expedition Doctor
    Bimla Deoskar/Ms., Team Manager
    Manisha Varma/Ms., She left BC on 28 April
    
  Sherpa summiters:
    Phurita, 15/04/1982, Namche-6
    Sanduk Dorjee Tamang, 31/05/1983, Khumjung-7
    Ngima Tshering, 20/08/1990, Thami, Namche-7
    Ngima Tashi, 03/11/1992, Namche-7
    Lhakpa Tenzing, 04/02/1983, Namche-8
    Lakpa Tenzi, 07/09/1990, Thami-8
    Pemba Tamang, 31/10/1989, Garma-9
    Furtemba, 15/01/1985, Khumjung-3
    Karma Gyaljen, 19/05/1991, Waku-4
    Kami Chhiri, 29/08/1982, Jubing-5
    Ngima Nuru, 06/11/1981, Thamo, Namche-4
    Gelu, 25/03/1995, Makalu-3

  The expedition team had 23 Sherpas of that 12 got to the summit. Ngima Nuru became youngest to scaled Everest 22 times according to the agency.

  Left BC: Ravindra and Sugriv on 26, rest of members on 28, and Sherpas on 30 May.

  Oxygen:
    Members from C1-summit-C1 mostly
    Sherpas from C2-summit-C2

  Fixed rope: Chinese team did it.


expid: EVER19170
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Arnold Coster
sponsor: Arnold Coster Expeditions Everest 2018
countries: Australia, Nepal, Romania, Russia, Serbia, USA
approach: Lhasa->Tingri->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-15
smtdate: 2019-05-23
smttime: 0430
termdate: 2019-05-27
campsites: BC(15/04,5700m),ABC(21/04,6400m),C1(29/04,7000m),C2(21/05,7700m),C3(22/05,8300m),Smt(23-24/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  15/04  5700m
  ABC 21/04  6400m
  C1  29/04  7000m
  C2  21/05  7700m
  C3  22/05  8300m
  Smt 23/05  by Zucchelli and Changba Sherpa at 4:30 am, Holotik and Karma Sherpa
             at 4:30 am, Deams, Pem Nurbu, Veldink, Pasang at 5 am, Dekker and Dawa 
             Sange at 6 am, Ciotau and Mingma Norbu at 7 am, Al Shelleh, Nga Tashi
             Sherpa and Tashi Sherpa at 10:30 am, Maharjan and Pemba Sherpa at 11 am
  Smt 24/05 by Shakirov and Lakpa Sherpa at 9 am.

  23/05 summit team (apart from Kalpana and Pemba, Al Shelleh, Na-Tashi and Tashi Sherpa) left C3 at 8 pm; Al Shelleh, Nga Tashi and Tashi Sherpa at 1 am on 23/05 together with Abramov’s team. 

  Kalpana and Pemba Sherpa had put a camp higher than C2 at 7900m. They wanted to skip C3 and left their high C2 at 7 pm on 22/05 and joined the others from C3 at 11 pm.

  Straightforward climb. Weather good, windy in the afternoon. Many people on the route. Waiting times at 2nd Step around one hour.

  Descent to C3, arrived at 8 pm
    Maharjan and Pemba 
  Descent to C2, arrived at 3 pm
    Al Shelleh and Nga Tashi and Tashi
    Dekker and Dawa Sangey Sherpa
  Descent to C1, arrived at 6 pm
    All remaining members

  Kedrowski reached 8700m 23/05. He was low on oxygen as they had been standing in line at 2nd Step and so he turned back.

  Coster reached 7000m on 29/04 (he never intended to summit).

  Gilian Kit Wai Lee got rescued from 7700m. He collapsed on his summit push on 22/05 at 9 am. He was with Kalden Sherpa. Nga Tashi was his second Sherpa, but he was already on his way to C3 to set up camp. Kalden dragged Lee back to the tent at 7600m as Lee was unconscious. Kalden kept him warm in the sleeping bag and gave him a lot of oxygen until he gained consciousness again at about 12 noon on 22/05. 

  Meanwhile Nga Tashi and Dawa Sherpa joined Kalden at C2. At about 1 pm they started the rescue. Lee was still unable to walk, he was totally disorientated. The carried him down from 7600m to 7500m which took them 2 hours. The Chinese rope fixing team came down from the summit and five of them offered their assistance. Eight people were involved in the rescue now. They reached C1 at about 8 pm. As the rescue team was very tired and the Chinese doctor who was at C1 said that it would be fine to stay at C1. They continued the rescue on 23/05. Dawa Sherpa had come down to ABC on 22/05 and on 23/05 he ascended again with two Sherpas (Tibetans) to help. They continued the rescue and Lee was down at ABC at 2 pm. Lee was still hallucinating, coughing blood and severe HAPE. His oxygen saturation was 40 per cent even though he was on 3 liters/min of oxygen.

  At 6 pm they strapped him on a yak to go to CBC, where he arrived at midnight. At 1 am on 24/05 he was driven to Kerung, from where he was put in a helicopter at 10 am and flown to Kathmandu to Grande Hospital. He has kidney failure, liver failure and pneumonia. He was in intensive care for 5 days and was moved to high care where he was still at the time of the interview.

  Lee was intending to climb Everest without supplemental oxygen.

  Reset of team left BC on 27/05.

  Oxygen: Used from C1 to top to C1 by members; C2 to top to C2 by Sherpas.

  Sherpas (for Coster and Italians):
    Dawa Dorchi Sherpa
    Dawa Temba Sherpa
    Dawa Sangay Sherpa (with Dekker)
    Nang Tenjee Sherpa
    Nga Tashi Sherpa (with Al Shellah)
    Pem Nurbu Sherpa (with Deams)
    Tashi Sherpa (with Al Shellah)
    Kalden Phura Sherpa (with Gilian Lee)
    Karma Dorje Sherpa
    Lakpa Sherpa (with Shakirov)
    Pasang Sherpa (with Veldink)
    Chhangba Sherpa (with Zucchelli)
    Pemba Sherpa (with Maharjan)
    Mingma Nurbu Sherpa (with Ciotau)
    Karma Sherpa (with Holotik)


expid: EVER19171
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Edmond Joyeusaz
sponsor: Three Italians on Everest
approach: Lhasa->Tingri->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-17
smtdate: 2019-05-23
smttime: 0400
termdate: 2019-05-27
campsites: BC(17/04,5200m),ABC(24/04,6400m),C1(20/05,7000m),C2(21/05,7600m),C3(22/05,8300m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  17/04  5200m
  ABC 24/04  6400m
  C1  20/05  7000m
  C2  21/05  7600m
  C3  22/05  8300m by Zucchelli
  Smt 23/05  23/05 by Zucchelli and Chhangba Sherpa at 4 am with oxygen.

  3 rounds of acclimatization for Rossi and Joyeusaz without reaching North Col. 
  2 rounds of acclimatization for Turani without reaching North Col. 
  2 rounds of acclimatization for Zucchelli reaching North Col on the second one. 

  Joyeusaz had intended to ski Hornbein Couloir back in 2010. Had avalanches anywhere back then, were trying without Sherpas, with Gianluca Marra (got edema) and Francesco Civra. Instead skied back then a little peak nearby Lingtren; then an other nice descent on nearby Yangtse skied again in 2016 by Jornet and co. This time, he chose to switch seasons, but conditions weren't much better than in 2010. The proper Hornbein would be in good conditions, whereas the whole Japanese Couloir lower part would be in ice. So useless to give it a try, since it would have been impossible to ski down. Rossi and Joyeusaz went up with their Sherpas up to C2 then descended without them as they were used for rescuing an Australian climber. Joyeusaz did a little skiing on North Ridge on very hard snow across some wind slabs. The driving with jeep back to Nepal was very the scariest part of the whole trip.  

  Zucchelli is the 5th Italian female climber to reach Everest, 4th with oxygen. 

  May 17: all from BC to ABC.
  May 18-19: all stayed at ABC.
  May 20: all slept at C1 except Turani who went back down to ABC on that day (had job problem back home, reached BC on the day after).  
  May 21: High point for Joyeusaz and Rossi at C2, since sleeping was not possible at C2 since no tent was available for them. Zucchelli only would sleep at C2 (with oxygen). 
  May 22: Zucchelli slept at C3 (with oxygen). 
  May 23: summit for Zucchelli and her Sherpa at 4 am (dark). Back to C2 at 3 pm on that day. 
  May 24: Zucchelli from C2 to ABC.
  May 25: Zucchelli from ABC to BC. 
  May 27: Zucchelli left BC. 

  Members:

  Edmond Joyeusaz, high point on May 21 at C2. Oxygen from C1 to C2, down sking without oxygen to C1. 

  Jean-Marie Rossi (photographer), high point on May 21 at C2. Oxygen from ABC to C2 to ABC. 

  Daniele Turani, high point on May 20 at 7000m at North Col (back to ABC on that day). Oxygen not used.

  Ines Zucchelli, summit on May 23. Oxygen from C2 (sleeping) to summit to C2. 

  Left BC on May 25 for Turani, Joyeusaz, Rossi and May 27 for Zucchelli.


  From Arnold Coster:

  Joyeusaz and Jean-Marie Rossi reached 7600m on 22/05. Joyeusaz was only interested in skiing the Hornbein Couloir and Jean-Marie was his photographer. However, when they looked into the couloir as well as the Japanese Couloir it was too icy and they decided to go down. Joyeusaz skied down from 7500m to crampon point (6650m).


expid: EVER19172
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Diahanne Gilbert
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Everest Expedition 2019
countries: Finland, Greece
approach: Lhasa->Tingri-Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-15
smtdate: 2019-05-23
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2019-05-29
campsites: BC(15/04,5200m),ABC(22/04,6500m),C1(10/05,7000m),C2(22/06,7600m),C3(23/05,8300m),Smt(23-24/05)
agency: Makalu Adventure
routememo:
  Main summit team started from C3 on 23/05 at 9 pm, summited at 6 am on 24/05, stayed 10 minutes, and returned to C1 starting from 5 pm onwards.

  Tsianos and Ang Dawa summited at noon a day earlier starting from 7800m (skipping C3).

  Nick Hateley ran out of steam at 8500m on 24/05 and descended with Phursemba.

  Oxygen: From North Col in ascent for some, but most from 7600m. Stopped from 7600m in descent although one member used all the way to base camp. Sherpas from C2 to smt to C2.


expid: EVER19173
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Rolfe Oostra
sponsor: 360 Expeditions Everest 2019
countries: Ireland, UK
approach: Kathmandu->Kerung->Tingri->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-08
smtdate: 2019-05-23
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2019-05-27
campsites: BC(08/04,5700m),ABC(13/04,6400m),C1(28/04,7000m),C2(21/05,7700m),C3(22/05,8300m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  08/04  5700m
  ABC 13/04  6400m
  C1  28/04  7000m
  C2  21/05  7700m
  C3  22/05  8300m
  Smt 23/05  by Prestidge and Pemba Sherpa at 9 am; West and Mingma Sherpa at
             9:45 am; Kaur and Bir Kaji Tamang at 11 am.

  All members except Hynes left C3 for the summit at 9.00 pm.

  The team was held up at the 1st and 2nd Steps by traffic for about one hour and a half. Ironmonger turned back about one hour below the summit because he was going too slowly and was worried that he wouldn't have enough oxygen left for the descent. Those who summited only spent about 15 minutes on the summit as they could see the weather was changing and it rapidly worsened on the descent.

  About 10 minutes above C3 Oostra's Sherpa, Thundu, said he felt unable to continue and so Oostra took the 3 bottles of oxygen Thundu was carrying and continued alone. However when Oostra reached the bottom of the 2nd Step his oxygen mask stopped working. He took the mask apart to see if there was a blockage but there was no visible problem and so no way of fixing it. By now Oostra, showing signs of hypoxia, decided he could not continue without oxygen and so descended back to C3. He was in continual radio contact with the rest of the team and their Sherpas.

  Prestidge and West arrived back at C3 about 3 pm. Kaur's Sherpa, Bir Kaji Tamang, arrived back alone at 7 pm. He said he didn't know where Kaur was. So Oostra went back up alone in the dark to find her. At 11 pm he located her between the exit cracks and the 1st Step. She had run out of oxygen, had frostbitten fingers and feet and was unable to stand or move unaided. By this time Oostra had also run out of oxygen, and it was with great difficulty that he got her back to C3 at 2 am - dragging, carrying and doing assisted abseils. The whole team, except for Hynes, stayed at C3 that night 23/05.

  Although Hynes made it to C3 with the rest of the team on 22/05, he did not leave for the summit with them as he felt too tired. He was showing no signs of altitude sickness, he simply felt exhausted. He stayed in his tent until it got light and then started his descent to C1 with Oostra's Sherpa, Thundu (who had turned back shortly after leaving C3), and Hynes own Sherpa, Dawa Sange Sherpa. On the descent, because of worsening weather, they stopped at C2 for about 6 hours until the weather cleared enough for them to continue down to C1 where they spent the night.

  On the 24/05 the team at C3 descended to ABC. Shortly before they reached C1 they were informed by the Sherpa on the radio that Hynes had passed away in his tent at C1.

  The Sherpa went up to C1 to recover the body on 25/05. Oostra together with Dawa Sange Sherpa left for BC with Hynes' body on 26/05. The others followed on 27/05.

  Oxygen: Used from C1 to summit to just above C1 by both members and Sherpas.


  Rolfe Oostra's Facebook Post - 28 May 2019

  Three Everest’s.

  Perhaps not unreasonably I thought of Mallory’s camera and how it was never found. How this singular loss had sparked so much controversy and grief to his family. So I took a selfie. I hoped that when they found my body that my last image would portray the love I felt for my family, that I missed them, and that I was sorry. Looking at this image now I guess, in this, I failed.

  The first memory I had when I came around 10 meters below the fixed line was how my mask had suddenly stopped working, how I had cursed out loud as the thing was brand new. Also, I remembered how quickly I had given up my summit bid knowing that if I got back in one piece to camp three I would be very lucky indeed. What surprised me most however, was how quickly hypoxia coupled with madly flashing lights had set in. In the past I had quite happily removed my mask on the summit and felt no ill effects as a posed for photographs and film. Now all I could do was gasp at the desperately thin air, blink at the strobe lights and wonder how the hell I was going to get down.

  I’ll be fucked if it ends this way” I remember saying to myself as I scrambled back up the steeply tilting scree slope to the fixed line. As I clipped back in I wondered how I had become unconnected from it in the first place. Another blinding flash of light provided the answer; I was rapidly beginning to lose my vision, was unable to breathe through my mask and the route directly above was steep with only few good places to comfortably move around on. Plus I was just below the infamous Second Step on the north-east ridge of Mount Everest. The air here had only 30% available oxygen of that at sea level, combined these formed enough of a reason for my momentary loss of consciousness and the subsequent tumble.

  “Just get the fuck down”. I thought next and began my desperate groping descent back down the ridge. It is at times like this that the reality of what is happening strips away all of society’s carefully constructed veneer and an inner animal running solely on instinct emerges. From above the First Step I spotted two people also descending, I howled at them like a mad beast to stop and give me air.

  Abseiling down the First Step was a blur but when I reached the couple I noticed that they too were in trouble. The girl, a Chinese could barely stand up and the Sherpa supporting her was not wearing his mask either. We both asked each other for air at the same time and I quickly realised we suffered the same problem from opposite perspectives; I had full tanks but a malfunction mask and he had empty tanks and a functioning mask. Both desperate to breathe we sorted out this mess in no time flat.

  We sat together swapping air until my flashing lights disappeared and I felt confident that I could descend the route below without any further mishaps. Leaving him with my two full cylinders and relieved not to have their weight, I made it down to camp 3 without further difficulties. Here at 8300 meters the air is still worryingly thin but I knew we had a stash of cylinders and a spare mask.

  I located the tent where we had stashed our spares, went inside and began to dig around for a full cylinder. A strange movement stopped me in my tracks. Camp three is situated deep into the death zone and on steep ground. There are few level places to pitch a tent so over the years climbers have gotten busy and build flat platforms out of rocks so as to have a good as possible rest before attempting the summit. My tent was on one such platform and the front wall, facing directly down the north-slope was crumbling rapidly away. Within seconds the entire platform wall gave way and the tent pitched forward and ripped lose from the mountain. “Shit!” I yelped as still enfolded in the tent I began to roll down the mountain. Hollering loudly I thought that this had to be the most ridiculous way to end it all. Here lies Rolfe…

  Then it stopped, snagged on a rock but the door still open behind me allowed several cylinders to escape and tumble down the abyss yawning below me.

  I located the tent I was sharing with Jamie barely noticing that the wind had begun to intensify. That the storm predicted to arrive later that night had begun to brew already. Crawling inside I picked up my radio and called up to check the team’s condition. Each of our expedition members had teamed up with an experienced Sherpa and everyone was making good progress for the top. Jamie himself had already climbed the Second Step and was gunning along. Above him Sheena, Arthur, Kam and Chris were equally determined to reach the top of the world and it looked as if they would realise their dreams. I could relax, it seemed that we would enjoy a good success rate this expedition.

  The only person not gunning for the summit was Kevin. I had met him outside his tent when the whole team began to get ready for our summit bid and he had told me how tired he was. He asked me what I thought about him summiting that night. I told him straight that it seemed unlikely. Still he wanted to give it a go and together we began a slow climb out of camp. We stopped only a hundred meters away before he fully realised the futility of continuing. Together we returned to his tent. I stayed behind a while to ensure he had sufficient oxygen and organise for two Sherpa to accompany him back down to the north col, 1200 meters below us, when it became light enough to leave. He bid me goodbye and good luck as I started off after the team. Now more than an hour above me.

  I peered anxiously into the developing storm. From ragged conversations with my Sherpa team I had learned that everyone except Jamie had reached the highest point on earth but that now the weather had taken a turn for the worst. The large number of climbers who had taken advantage of this tiniest of summit windows had made for slow progress up the three technical rocky steps on the way up. Long ques had formed and people had to sand still using up valuable oxygen but the conditions had been fine. Now that the summit had been reached and the predicted evening storm arrived early going back down these steps with the same number of people would prove to be deadly.

  1996 all over again?

  The storm intensified. Temperatures dropped dramatically. The wind began to rip lose tents around me and hurl them down the mountain. No-one appeared back from the maelstrom. The hours passed. My anxiety level rose. Then, Jamie and his Sherpa Karma popped up through the gloom. Both utterly beat. Totally done in and unable to speak. I directed Jamie to Chris’s tent. At least it was still standing and not in risk of blowing away. Karma dragged over Jamie’s belongings and then hunkered down too. Next through the door were Chris and his Sherpa Nuru. Having been out longer they were even more fucked. Nuru slurred his speech, Chris stupefied by exhaustion, covered in ice, unable to speak. They crawled in with Jamie. Three more to come home.

  The hour hand crept agonizingly slowly around the dial two more times. Heartrate already high was pushed into the red. Enormous amount of oxygen sucked down way too quickly. Then the wind died down and the visibility improved. Through the swirling snow I could see a cluster of people high on the north-east ridge. Two small dots were moving below them. They were Arthur and Pemba. Both utterly destroyed. Arthur barely able to walk. Pemba crying. Both survived a unique form of hell.

  Next down was Sheena and Mingma Sherpa. I climbed up towards her. Gave her an enormous hug. Anxiously asked if she was ok. Was surprised when she jubilantly shouted “That was brilliant, fantastic, I am so happy!!” Mingma looked and talked like a frozen zombie. Not so enthusiastic.

  Still one to go.

  Beer Angji, Kam’s Sherpa appeared. Totally spend, staggering, didn’t recognise me, unable to speak collapsed outside my tent. It took a while for him to come to his senses. When he eventually did I asked him “where is Kam?” Dazed he looked me in the eyes. “I don’t know” he said.

  I know people will be shocked to read this. People who never ventured above the death zone especially. People never caught in a -40 C blizzard in the death zone even more so. What motivates individuals caught in such insanity most is personal survival. Beer had a wife and kids to get back to. Next on his list of priorities was his more vulnerable companion, his paying client he knew little about. The rules of duty of care became blurred. Perhaps his battered oxygen starved brain thought that if only he could get down he could raise some help. Perhaps he hoped he’d meet some help on the way. Perhaps he thought one dead is better than two. Whatever Beer thought he began to move faster than Kam, leaving her behind in the process.

  More people came down. Some being dragged into camp by guides and Sherpa. All stunned. Some crying. All relieved to have survived. Still no Kam.

  Darkness fell. Totally expectantly. Some of the team were optimistic, “Kam has a habit of just turning up at times like this” others were not so, “not much we can do”… I felt neither way, strapped on my crampons, grabbed a cylinder and headlight and started up into the gloom and bitter thin air.

  It wasn’t long before I spotted a light high on the ridge above me. A tiny pinprick of light. “If that is Kam she is fucked” I thought. “There is no way I can get that high”. I signalled up with my head torch, three flashes. Three flashes bounced back. Three flashes again. Three flashes return. Oh fuck. My gut tells me it is her. Now, come hell or high water I am committed to get her.

  Turning the gas to full flow I begin to climb. As quickly as one can at over 8300 meters. Driven mad by the incessant signals. Cursing Kam for not trying to get down herself. The light is stationary. Seemingly waiting for me to come up. It takes ages, another hour or so pass before I can yell at her. “Is that you Kam?” a while passes before I get a response, “Hey it’s me “comes a quaky voice from the top of a near vertical rock buttress. The air is bitter cold. The terrain steep and the only places higher than us the summit of K2 and Everest.

  Not much point in worrying about the potential of the various outcomes. Focus on the task ahead. When I reach Kam I find her slumped into a heap. “Can’t move my hands, babe” she whisperers. “They are frozen”.

  Tapping into what my 30 years of mountaineering have taught me I set up an abseil and clip her into a sling. Gently I ease her down the buttress until she is dangling from my harness. I am now doing a tandem abseil, a tricky precautious procedure at sea-level. An educated guess at around 8,500 meters.

  It works. We get down but there is still a lot of ground to cover. Camp three might as well be in Kathmandu. Still, determined we make it work. Sometimes only barely. Sometimes with a lot of cursing and shouting. She collapses. I yell at her to stand up and move. Sometimes she cries. Sometimes I drag her. Two more tandem abseils. A lot more dragging, cursing and screaming and three hours later we get to camp three. But which tent is ours amongst the dozens of domes still left standing on the steep icy slope of camp three.

  “Arthur!” I holler. No response anywhere. “Arthur!” I scream again. A light pops up not far from us. “Here mate!” a voice booms into the night. “I got Kam here mate… She needs help”. The tent zips open and a strong pair of hands reach out into the night.

  And what happened to you Kev? What happened to the only guy on the expedition who could call the summit his own? The guy who I counted on being my co-pilot? The man whose extensive expedition experience made him virtually unique on the mountain?

  What I regret most is the things I never told you during the many nights we spent as room and tent buddies. How I never told you how much I respected you. How I admired your hard working ethos, your ability to walk on stilts and plaster up a flawless ceiling. How envious I was of the climbs you had done in Pakistan, Sikkim and northern India. Climbs few people had accomplished. Climbs in the purest sense of the word. How much I admired your quite, assuring way with the other team members, how when things were at a low you picked up the spirit with a few Irish jokes or limericks. How you amply demonstrated your power and resilience by getting into camp well before everyone else and never took a day off just to relax. Always meeting people, making friends. Mate I’m sorry I never told you these things. But I hope you knew that I thought you were simply the best man on the hill.

  There were no records set by our team as we descended down the mountain from camp three to the north col. The winds had dropped and each of us were reflecting on the fight we had endured. Each of us looking forward to the comforts at ABC. Glad now that the climb was over that soon we could tap back into this ephemeral thing called normality.

  But then news reached us that Kevin had passed away on the north col. Just as the sun had crept over the north-east ridge Kev’s body released his soul. Why, we can still not be sure. This incredible self-contained, brilliant man will take that secret with him. All we are left with are the memories. The life enhancing memories of an expedition filled with the finest elements an adventure could hold. Solid friendship, shared lust for life and the need to achieve together. “We struck gold here boyo” Kev announced happily as we bounced our way across the Tibetan plateau and saw the mountain for the first time “I wouldn’t want to be doing this with any other people.”

  And the answer to the million dollar question if I would do this again is yes. Yes not only because this is the only thing I know but because of the power of the mountain. There is only one Everest.

  An alien encountering earth for the first time would surely be startled by its brilliant sapphire colour. Then, I am sure it would be pleasantly surprised by the abundance of life. Stand in wonder at how many tiny lifeforms inhabit every nook and cranny of its sea and land. But, surely it would puzzle why some of these things were crawling their way up to the top of this planets highest protrusion. Perhaps it would wonder why these creatures bothered, what drives them to do such things. Then frustrated it would fly away, back into deep space, searching for its own challenge, its own Everest.

  And so it is with us climbers. The creatures crawling to the top of a mountain which summit pokes sharply into the jet stream and trails an awesome plume of ice-particles. The reasons for why we do this are far more profound than merely because it is there.

  We do this because we are alive.


expid: EVER19174
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Sean James
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Everest North Expedition, 2019
countries: Russia
approach: Lhasa->Tingri->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-17
smtdate: 2019-05-23
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2019-05-26
campsites: BC(17/04,5700m),ABC(25/04,6400m),C1(05/05,7000m),C2(21/05,7700m),C3(8300m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  17/04  5700m
  ABC 25/04  6400m
  C1  05/05  7000m
  C2  21/05  7700m
  C3  22/05  8300m
  Smt 23/05  by 3 members James, Evans, Kruglov, and 2 Sherpas Lhakpa Wongchu Sherpa,
             Phurlapkpa (Bibash) Sherpa at 6 am.


  Notes from Sean James:
  		
  Summit team of 4 members left C3 at 8:30 pm on 22/05. Straightforward climb, no significant holdups. Spent about 20 minutes on summit. James and Kruglov descended to ABC with Bibash Sherpa and arrived there at 9 pm. Evans stayed at North Col with Lhakpa Wongchu Sherpa, arrived there at 8 pm. Evans descended to ABC on 24/05.

  Kershaw left for summit and got to 8600m, bottom of 2nd Step, and his 2 Sherpas, Mingma Sherpa and Pemba Sherpa refused to go any further, so descended back to ABC together with his Sherpas.

  Whole team left ABC on 25/05 and left BC on 26/05.

  Oxygen: From North Col to summit and back to North Col (all members and Sherpas).


  Notes from Yuri Kruglov:

  Members:
    Sean James (UK), SMT at 5:15-30 am Guide 1, Oxygen from C1 to smt to C3. 
    Yuri Kruglov (Russia), SMT at 4:30 am, Guide 2, Oxygen from C1 to smt to C3.
      Kruglov went on the James permit as condition to help him with his clients
    Julian Evans (UK), SMT at 5:15-30 am, Client, Had climbed Denali, S and N pole.
      Oxygen from C1 to summit to C1. 
    Stewart Kershaw (UK), HP at 2nd Step, Client, Only crossing Atlantic but tough
      guy. Oxygen from C1 to 2nd Step to C1.
    Both clients had no altitude experience, but were fit. 

  3 hired:
    Nima Sherpa. Climbing with Stewart he didn't want to continue at @nd step, so
      Stewart had to come back down at that stage.
    Lhakpa Wangchu Sherpa. SMT
    Pri Lhakpa (Bibas) Sherpa. SMT

  Summit day:

  May 22: Bad weather forecast announced from 23rd midday, so they decided to climb up and back before that. Started at 9 pm from C3, had just stayed there for a few hours.

  May 23: summit at 4:30 am for Kruglov. -29°C + wind on top. He spent more than 1h waiting for his teammates. At 5:30 am begun to make pictures, had some tea, called his wife...Felt like approached by 2 crowds on “his” empty summit. “Was like a flashmob then”!! On Nepali side, like an endless human file.

  Pri Lhakpa “rescue”:

  Pri was hit by a stone on descent from summit above 3rd Step, sent by some members from above. Kruglov just nearby him heard him screaming, then checked: he was bleeding but his skull all right. Since Kruglov was worried about a possible brain damage, insisted him to go back down as fast as possible. At first however Pri Lhakpa would discuss with some other Sherpas to ask for help, but it wouldn't work eventually. Kruglov then told him to leave his rucksack here, and get down as fast as possible.

  At 3rd Step, as there was a traffic jam, Kruglov tried to warn people going up to leave the place free for him and Pri Lhakpa to go down as fast as possible, but people didn't accept! So they both down-climbed around the fixed ropes, in parallel. Otherwise would have been 1 hour waiting.

  Pri is elder brother of Ang Phurba Sherpa (who was with Kruglov on Dhaulagiri in 2017). Strong man as despite bleeding, he made all the way to ABC on that day. 

  At 2nd Step, only 10 people were descending in front of them. Had to wait more than 1 hour, for these to pass down the obstacle. Kruglov noticing the guides weren't caring about their clients who were not on short ropes, some of them afraid by exposure and some of the 3 ladders not well fixed anymore. The duet reached C3 before noon, as there were still people going up.
   
  Yuri and Pri Lakpa reached ABC at 7 pm. Once reaching the ABC, Pri worried that he had had to leave his rucksack up there, so Kruglov gave him money later.

  Other members reached ABC on that same day, whereas Julian slept at C1/north col (with oxygen).

  At night wind was supposed to be 20km/h, increasing to 35 in the morning, then 45 in the afternoon. That day wind struck at 2 pm (Kruglov at C2 at that time).

  May 24: Next day Julian back to ABC.
  May 25: All back to BC.
  May 26: All left BC.


expid: EVER19175
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Alex Abramov
sponsor: Seven Summits Club Everest Expedition 2019
countries: Azerbaijan, Cyprus, Latvia, Moldova, Poland
approach: Lhasa->Tingri->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-20
smtdate: 2019-05-23
termdate: 2019-05-26
agency: 7 Summits Adventure
campsites:
  BC(20/04,5100m),IC(23/04,5800m),ABC(02/05,6400m),C1(03/05,7000m),C2(21/05,7900m),C3(22/05,8300m),Smt(23-24/05)

routememo:
  CBC 20/04  5100m
  IC  23/04  4800m
  ABC 02/05  6400m
  C1  03/05  7000m
  C2  21/05  7900m
  C3  22/05  8300m
  Smt 23/05  Ter-Saakovs, Zisman, Ginkulov, Polyakov, Pominov, Abramov, Lakpa
             Gyaljen, Lakpa Tenji, Mingma Dorchi, Mingma Tenje, Muktu Lakpa, 
             Ngima Ongda, Ngima Ongdi
  Smt 24/05  by Tolstokorova, Baciu, Paczoski, Smirov, Vokryaachko, Staroselskiy,
             Rostovtsev, Ang Dorchi, Lakpa Gelu, Lakpa Nurbu, Nima Dindu, Nurbu
             Chhiring, Pasang, Rinjen.

  High point for Janczarski was 8600m.

  Oxygen: Members from ABC-summit-ABC, Sherpas from 8300-summit-8300m.


expid: EVER19176
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Kuntal Joisher
sponsor: Joisher Everest Expedition 2019
approach: Kathmandu->Kerung->Tingri->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-16
smtdate: 2019-05-23
smttime: 0530
termdate: 2019-05-27
campsites: BC(16/04,5700m),ABC(29/04,6400m),C1(01/05,7000m),C2(21/05,7700m),C3(22/05,8300m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Satori Adventures
routememo:
  BC  16/04  5700m
  ABC 29/04  6400m
  C1  01/05  7000m
  C2  21/05  7700m
  C3  22/05  8300m
  Smt 23/05  by both members and two Sherpas: Uphadyaya and Funaru Sherpa at 5:15 am
             and Joisher and Mingma Tenzing Sherpa at 5:30 am.

  Upadhyaya left C3 at 8 pm and Joisher an hour later, because he moved more quickly and was more experienced, having already climbed Everest from the south. After 3rd Step Upadhyaya stopped for one hour because it was still dark and he wanted to be on the summit at sunrise. Joisher caught up and they arrived on the summit a short time apart. They stayed on the summit about 15 minutes as the summit was getting crowded by then. On the descent they were caught in a storm not far above C3 which resulted in some snowblindness in one eye for Upadhyaya - he wears glasses and had to take them off in order to see as they were being coated with snow. Joisher got back to C3 at 12 pm and Upadhyaya at 1 pm. At 3 pm they left for C2 and spent the night there. Then descended to ABC on the 24/05 and left BC on 27/05.

  Climbalaya managed BC and ABC, but above that it was Satori and they supplied the Sherpas.

  Oxygen: Joisher started using at C1 and Uphadyaya at about 7300m, to the summit
    and back to C1. Sherpas used oxygen from C2 to summit and back to C2.


expid: EVER19177
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Valentyn Sypavin
sponsor: Alpomania Everest North 2019
countries: Russia
approach: Lhasa->Tingri->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-18
smtdate: 2019-05-23
smttime: 0558
termdate: 2019-05-25
campsites: BC(18/04,7500m),ABC(24/04,6400m),C1(02/05,7000m),C2(21/05,7700m),C3(22/05,8300m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Climbalaya (Satori Adventures pmt)
routememo:
  BC  18/04  5700m
  ABC 24/04  6400m
  C1  02/05  7000m
  C2  21/05  7700m
  C3  22/05  8300m
  Smt 23/05  by all members and Dawa Tenzing, Mingma Nuru Sherpa, Nima [Nuru] and 
             Tshering [Wangchu] Sherpa at 5:58 am.

  Summit team left C3 at 9:20 pm on 22/05. There were about 100 people on the route. They only had to wait for 20 minutes before the first small wall (about 7m). That was the only time they really had to wait. Straightforward climb. They spent about 40 minutes on the summit and apart from Klenova and Dawa Tenzing all members descended to ABC, where they arrived at 10 pm. Klenova stayed at the North Col and all other Sherpas apart from Dawa Tenzing stayed at 7700m. On 24/05 Klenova descended to ABC and the whole team left for BC the same day and left BC on	25/05.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from North col to top to 6600m my members apart from Sypavin,
    Sypavin from 7600m to top to 6600m
    From 7700m to top to 7700m by Sherpas.


expid: EVER19178
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Olga Koroleva
sponsor: Koroleva Everest North Expedition 2019
approach: Lhasa->Tingri-Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-18
smtdate: 2019-05-28
smttime: 0611
termdate: 2019-06-01
campsites: BC(18/04,5700m),ABC(01/05,6400m),C1(02/05,7000m),C2(26/05,7000m),C3(27/05,8300m),Smt(28/05)
agency: Climbalaya (Satori Adventures pmt)
routememo:
  BC  18/04  5700m
  ABC 01/05  6400m
  C1  02/05  7000m
  C2  26/05  7700m
  C3  27/05  8300m
  Smt 28/05  by Koroleva with Pemba Tenjing Sherpa and Nima Nuru Sherpa at 6:11 am.


  They left C3 at 9 pm. They were the only people on the mountain that day and the weather was perfect. They descended to ABC the same day, then to BC on 30/05. Team left BC on 01/06.

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Tenjing: This was his 14th Everest summit. He had previously summited 
      from  both the south and the north side of Everest. He had also previously
      summited Cho Oyu and Makalu.
    Nima Nuru: This year Nima Nuru summited twice. He had already summited with
      another member, but went up again with Koroleva and Pemba, because Pemba and
      Koroleva knew they were going to be alone on the mountain and wanted extra 
      support.

  Oxygen: Both member and Sherpas used from C1 to summit and back to C1.


expid: EVER19179
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Jamie McGuinness
sponsor: Project Himalaya Everest Expedition 2019
countries: USA
approach: Lhasa->Tingri->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-23
smtdate: 2019-05-30
smttime: 0528
termdate: 2019-06-04
campsites: BC(23/04,5700m),ABC(30/04,6400m),C1(04/05,7000m),C2(28/05,7650m),C3(29/05,8300m),Smt(30/05)
agency: Expedition Himalaya
routememo:
  BC  23/04  5700m
  ABC 30/04  6400m
  C1  04/05  7000m
  C2  28/05  7700m
  C3  29/05  8300m
  Smt 30/05  by Frank Campanaro, Pasang Gombu Sherpa, Da Dendi Sherpa at 5:30 am, 
             McGuinness at 6:20 am, Synnott, Kusang Sherpa, Prakash Gurung 
             at 6:30 am, Ozturk, Bal Bahadur, Pasang Kaji, Lakpa Temba at 6:40 am, 
             Irving, Lhakpa Tenji at 6:45 am.

  The aim of this expedition was to look for Andrew Irvine. McGuinness thought it could have been between the exit cracks and the 1st Step. The original plan was not to go to the summit, but look for Irvine. Due to Sherpa and Chinese pressure they decided to go for the summit. The team looked for Irvine with drones beforehand. They scanned the mountain with them and got good footage; however, there was too much snow to find anything. McGuinness also thinks it could have been swept off by an avalanche or maybe removed by the Chinese.

  The plan was then to summit and look for Irvine on the way down.

  Summit team left C3 at 11:30 pm on 29/05. All other teams had already left the mountain. Straightforward climb. They spent about half an hour on the summit. They descended to North Col and arrived there at between 6 pm and 8 pm. On 31/05, everyone back at ABC; 01/06 BC. Team left BC on 04/06.

  On the way down, Irvine ran out of oxygen near mushroom rock. McGuinness gave him his oxygen.

  Hurst abandoned at 7000m due to exhaustion.

  Pollard abandoned at 7000m suspected TIA (brain stroke).

  Kalisz abandoned at 7000m due to thrombosis (he was evacuated from BC on 12/05; he was diagnosed with three small thromboses in his legs and lungs, but has fully recovered now).

  Sherpas above BC: 15

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from 7000m to top to 7650m by members
    Taken and used from 7650m to top to 7650m by Sherpas.


expid: EVER19180
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Scott Woolums
sponsor: Adventures International/Mountain Trip Everest Expedition 2019
approach: Kathmandu->Kerung->Tingri->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-22
smtdate: 2019-05-29
termdate: 2019-05-31
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to high winds
campsites: BC(22/04,5700m),ABC(30/04,6400m),C1(27/05,7000m),C2(28/05,7700m)),xxx(29/05,8000m)
agency: Expedition Himalaya
routememo:
  BC  22/04  5700m
  ABC 30/04  6400m
  C1  27/05  7000m
  C2  28/05  7700m
  Hpt 29/05  8000m

  On 29/05 Woolums and Phillips together with Karma Gelygen Sherpa, Namgyl Sherpa and Mingma Sherpa, left C2 for C3. When they reached approximately 8000m Woolums became concerned about the high winds, and the fact that they would be even more exposed as they gained height on the ridge, so they decided to turn around. However this decision was precipitated by the events detailed below.

  On 29/05 they had left for C3 later than planned, because they had been continuing a conversation on the radio with the CTMA that had started the previous evening. On their arrival at C2 on 28/05 the CTMA had radioed up to them asking them to go down. The CTMA wanted to clear the mountain because they said they had a forecast for bad weather coming in over the next few days - when Woolums was planning to summit. Their forecast conflicted with that of Woolums and he refused to descend. The CTMA then proceeded to offer Woolums an incentive of $5000 off next years permit if they would turn around. Woolums refused. However as a result of this conversation, which continued on into the morning of 29/05, Woolums and Phillips left late for C3 and when they encountered high winds, Woolums was worried that this was the bad weather the CTMA had in their forecast. As a result he decided to turn around rather than get stranded in bad weather at C3, and they descended to ABC (29/05). They descended to BC on 30/05 and left BC on 31/05.

  Sherpas:
    Karma Gelygen Sherpa had previously summited Everest 8 times via the South Col,
      4 times with Scott.
    Namgyl Sherpa had previously summited Everest 3 times via the South Col with
      Mountain Trip expeditions led by Scott and once via the North Col in 2018.
    Mingma Sherpa had previously summited Everest 3 times via the South Col.

  Oxygen: Used by all members and Sherpas to high point and then down to ABC.


expid: EVER19181
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Ryuseki Hiraoka
sponsor: Ryuseki Expeditions Everest Tibet 2019
approach: Kathmandu->Gosainkund->Kerung->Tingri->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-15
smtdate: 2019-05-23
smttime: 0735
termdate: 2019-05-27
campsites: BC(15/04,5150m),ABC(26/04,6400m),C1(30/04,7050m),C2(21/05,7600m),C3(22/05,8200m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  Team set out from C3 10:05 pm (NST), summited at 7:35 am, stayed 20 minutes, then descended to C1 arriving about 8:45 pm.

  Ms. Kiuchi reached 8500m, then turned back due to exhaustion and slow climbing rate.

  Oxygen:
    Members start using oxygen from C1 sleep and stopped using until C1 sleep
    Sherpas start using oxygen from C2 and stopped using until C3.


expid: EVER19182
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Catherine Vulliez
sponsor: Everest North Side 2019 'Un reve au dela du raisonable'
approach: Kathmandu->Kerung->Tingri->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-16
smtdate: 2019-05-23
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2019-06-01
campsites: BC(16/04,5700m),ABC(25/04,6400m),C1(02/05,7000m),C2(21/05,7700m),C3(22/05,8300m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Asian Trekking (Climbalaya pmt)
routememo:
  BC  16/04  5700m
  ABC 25/05  6400m
  C1  02/05  7000m
  C2  21/05  7700m
  C3  22/05  8300m
  Smt 23/05  by Vulliez and Gyaluk Sherpa at 6 am.

  They left C3 at 10 pm. The climb was straightforward and they only stopped once before the summit. Although there were a lot of people on the route, they managed to pass them. They descended to C3 and waited there for one hour to allow some bad weather to pass, then continued the descent to ABC where Vulliez arrived at 8 pm. She descend to BC on 25/05 and left BC on 01/06.

  Sherpa:
    Gyaluk (Gyalu) Sherpa had previously summited Everest 5 times with ascents from 
    both the south and the north. Lives in the Khumbu below Lukla. He works for 
    Asian Trekking. Born 1975.

  Oxygen: Both member and Sherpa used from C1 to summit and back to C1.


expid: EVER19183
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Argentina
leaders: Horacio Galanti
sponsor: First Argentinian Both Sides Expedition 2019
approach: Kathmandu->Kerung->Tingri->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-15
smtdate: 2019-05-23
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2019-05-27
campsites: BC(15/04,5700m),ABC(20/04,6400m),C1(30/04,7000m),C2(21/05,7700m),C3(22/05,8300m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  BC  15/04  5700m
  ABC 20/04  6400m
  C1  30/04  7000m
  C2  21/05  7700m
  C2  22/05  8300m
  Smt 23/05  by Galanti, Ang Mingma at 7:30 am.

  On first rotation, Galanti went up to 7300m to the top of the fixed ropes. That was his acclimatization.

  Summit team left C3 at 10:30 pm on 22/05. They waited at the 1st Step for half an hour and 2nd Step for about 45 minutes. It was very cold. The problem with the waiting was that there were too many unskilled climbers. On 3rd Step another half an hour. Galanti says he walked past NINE dead bodies. They spent about 40 minutes on the summit and descended to North Col, where they arrived at 7 pm. On 24/05 down to ABC and on 25/05 down to CBC. Team left BC on 27/05.

  Sherpa:
    Ang Mingma, Yilajung, Khumbu, 21/02/1968

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C1 to top to C2 by Galanti and Ang Mingma.


expid: EVER19184
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Christopher Dare
sponsor: Christopher Dare Everest Expedition 2019
approach: Kathmandu->Kerung->Tingri->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-08
smtdate: 2019-05-23
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2019-05-29
campsites: BC(08/04,5700m),ABC(13/04,6400m),C1(28/04,7000m),C2(21/05,7700m),C3(22/05,8300m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Christopher Dare was a private client of Himalayan Guides that used the Oostra/James teams' base camp facilities.

  BC  08/04  5700m
  ABC 13/04  6400m
  C1  28/04  7000m
  C2  21/05  7700m
  C3  22/05  8300m
  Smt 23/05 by Dare and Nuru [Wangchu] Sherpa at 9 am.

  Dare together with Nuru Sherpa left C3 for the summit at 9 pm. They were held up at the 1st and 2nd Steps by traffic for about one hour and a half, but otherwise the climb to the summit was straightforward. They spent about 15 minutes on the summit and then descended to C3, arriving there at 3 pm. On 24/05 they descended to ABC and left for BC on 27/05. Team left BC on 29/05.

  Oxygen: Used by both Date and Sherpa from C1 to summit to just above C1 on descent.


expid: EVER19186
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Tsering Samdrup
sponsor: Holy Mountain Adventure Everest Expedition 2019
approach: Lhasa->Tingri->Everest BC
smtdate: 2019-05-23
smttime: 0616
campsites: BC,ABC(6400m),C1(7028m),C2(7790m),C3(8300m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Holy Mountain Adventure
routememo:
  From www.mt8848.com (Google Translastion):

  The morning of May 23, 2019 Holy Mountain Adventure Tibet Everest climbers 12 players (including three female players), 21 mountain guides and full backup wizard successful Everest from the North Slope. From April 10 arrived in Lhasa, climbing 12 players after 43 days of repeated adapt to field training, and finally achieved their top of the world wish today.

  According to the northern slope of Mount Everest climbing activities commander, general manager of the Tibet Mountaineering Expedition Holy Mountain Adventure Services Tsering Samdrup introduced early this morning 1:00, all the staff starting from an altitude of 8300m of the summit C3 camp. Morning 8:31 (CST, 6:16 NST), the players first successful ascent of Mount Everest, 10:44 (CST), and finally a player summit. "Everest today's weather is very good, the players of the state are also very good." He said. Tsering Samdrup, said this year because of the weather, rather than taking the time window of the North Slope of late, countries have grasped this opportunity climbers headed to the summit, resulting in a total of more than 200 gathered in climbers climbing routes, causing congestion phenomenon. This is a direct result of the summit this year than in previous years to extend the time to two hours. Successful ascent of the team is scheduled to withdraw today at an altitude of 7028 meters in the North Col camp, "according to the players their physical situation, some may withdraw at an altitude of 7790m of C2 camp, altitude 6500m to withdraw some might meters in advanced base camp. "Tsering Samdrup said that May 24 will be climbing all the rest at advance base camp, May 25 to withdraw stronghold.

  From China News Network:

  In addition, six members of the group road from Holy Mountain Adventure was May 22 will be laid ropes to the summit of Everest, done enough to prepare for the summit May 23 the whole team.


expid: GYLZ19101
peakid: GYLZ
year: 2019
route1: SSE Face from SW
nation: Nepal
leaders: Maya Gurung
sponsor: First Jugal Expedition 2019
ascent1: 1st
approach: Kyansing->Dippu->Chidakpa Kharka->Nyanya Masal
bcdate: 2019-04-03
smtdate: 2019-04-09
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2019-04-12
campsites: BC(03/04,4500m),ABC(05/04,4700m),C1(08/04,5000m),Smt(09/04)
achievment: 1st ascent of Gyalzen Peak
agency: Everest Women Treks
routememo:
  BC  03/04  4500m
  ABC 05/04  4700m
  C1  08/04  5000m
  Smt 09/04  by Maya Gurung, Tul Singh Gurung, Min Bahadur Tamang, Sharmila Thapa, 
             Ash Bahadur Gurung, Samir Gurung, Nar Bahadur Asthami.

  Two guides started from High Camp at 3 pm on 8 April followed by other guides and climbing members at 9:30 pm for C1 where they arrived around midnight. The team reached summit at 11:30 am of 9 April. They stayed on summit for about 15 minutes and returned to High Camp around 9 pm. Total time elapsed from High Camp to summit and to High Camp was 23 hours. Team left BC on 12/04.

  Other members:
    Prem Bahadur Gurung, 4700m, first time, muscle cramps
    Subash Karmacharya, 4500m on 4 April, high-altitude sickness.
    Madhav Sapkota, 4700m on 8 April, high-altitude sickness, heli-rescued to Ktmdu.

  Oxygen: Taken, not used

  Guide Team:
    Astani, Nar Bahadur. Assistant Guide, 10/04/2046, Kapilakot-2, Sindhuli
    Gurung, Ash Bahadur, Assistant Guide, 01/09/2046, Laprak-6 Gorkha
    Gurung, Samir, Assistant Guide, 17/07/2044, Laprak-4, Gorkha
    Gurung, Tul Singh (Tulsi), Lead Guide

accidents:
  Two members got high-altitude sickness; Sharmila Thapa, heli-rescued on 11 April to Kathmandu due to falling injury


expid: HIMJ19101
peakid: HIMJ
year: 2019
route1: N Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yasuhiro Hanatani
sponsor: Shinshu University Himlung Himal Expedition 2019
approach: Koto->Meta->Phu->BC
bcdate: 2019-04-13
smtdate: 2019-05-08
termdate: 2019-05-12
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to deep snow
othersmts: Climbed Himlung (HIML-191-03)
campsites: BC(13/04,4750m),C1(06/05,5400m),C2(07/05,6000m),C3(08/05),6600m),xxx
agency: Cosmo Treks
primid: HIML19103
routememo:
  BC  13/04  4750m
  C1  22/04  5450m
  C2  27/04  6000m
  Smt 28/04  by Hanatani, Koyama, Shiogai at 10 am
  Smt 09/05  by Tsuchida Sawa and Takahiro at 11:30 am.

  28/04 summit team left C2 at 4:30 am. Clear weather and perfect climbing conditions. They spent about half an hour on the summit and descended to BC on same day, where they arrived at about 6 pm. There was no fixed rope and they did not need it.

  On the first summit push Sawa and Takahiro Tsuchida reached 7000m, but turned back because they were both too tired. They spent the night at C2 and returned to BC the following day.

  Sawa and Takahiro tried again for the summit. C1 on 07/05; C2 on 08/05 and summit on 09/05. They used the ropes the French team had fixed a few days beforehand. On their descent, they stayed at C2 and returned to BC on 10/05.

  Himjung Attempt

  Hanatani and Shiogai left Himlung BC for Himjung 06/05 (they did not leave earlier due to the weather) crossing the Himjung Glacier. The route took them past a peak of 6600m which they traversed just below the summit in very good conditions.

  C1  06/05  5400m
  C2  07/05  6000m
  C3  08/05  6600m (past the traverse of the peak)
  HPt 08/05  6600m by Hanatani and Shiogai.

  The abandoned the climb due to loose rock which they would have encountered if they had continued on to Himjung. They would have had to downclimb into a rocky gully and that seemed to dangerous to Hanatani. On 09/05 they packed up their C3 and returned to Himlung BC. It took them about 12 hours.

  Team left BC on 12/05.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


expid: HIML19101
peakid: HIML
year: 2019
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Alexander Blankestijn
sponsor: BNB Himlung Himal Expedition 2019
approach: Koto->Nar-Lhu->Kobler BC
bcdate: 2019-05-01
smtdate: 2019-05-09
smttime: 1120
termdate: 2019-05-10
campsites: BC(01/05,4800m),C1(04/05,5400m),C2(06/05,6100m),C3(08/05,6300m),Smt(09/05)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  BC  01/05  4800m
  C1  04/05  5400m
  C2  06/05  6100m
  C3  08/05  6300m
  Smt 09/05  by both members and Tamangs at 11:20 am.

  When they left C1 the plan was to leave for summit push on 13th or 14th May. When they got to C3 Dawa telephoned NNMGA and they informed him that the weather was going to be bad between 10-13th May. The clients were in good shape, so they decided to go for the summit earlier.

  On 09/05 woke up at 12:30 am, took an hour to prepare, 1:30 am began summit push.
  Weather: high winds 40-45 k/phr winds.

  After C3 winds were so big, they stopped to discuss how to proceed. Dawa Tamang made the decision that it’s normal to have high winds at this height of 6500m. 2nd French team (Paulo’s expeditions) decided to go for summit push after seeing that Dawa’s team was continuing.

  By 7000m at around 10:30 am the 2nd French team of 2 members (1 client, 1 Sherpa) overtook Dawa’s team and summitted first. Dawa’s team followed and summitted at 11:20 am.

  On Summit: 10 minutes. This is when Dawa noticed Ger Bergkamp's frostbite on his nose when he took off his buff (Ger was too happy on the summit to notice it).

  Descent: Took some time because both clients had become weak. Gyan Tamang with Ger first arrived at 4:30 pm at C3. Dawa Tamang and Alexander Blankestijn 1 hour after. They all had a meeting in a tent, and that was when Dawa noticed the frostbite had become a bit black in some places. Slept at C3.

  Next day: evac’d both clients on 10/05, 12 midday [from C3]. Alexander was fine, but accompanied his friend and went with him to CIWEC. Turned out Ger had frostnip. 
  Side note: Heli was busy on Everest/Lukla so it could not come in the morning. Also because of special permits needed for heli-evac, you need permission from the district CDO, so Dawa’s office had to arrange all the papers before the heli came (Summit Air).

  Same day 10/05 Dawa Tamang and Gyan Tamang returned to BC.

  Hired:
    Dawa Tamang
    Gyan Bahadur Tamang, Kavre, Timalgaon

  Fixed rope:	550m from C3 by French team before.

  Oxygen: Taken, not used.


expid: HIML19102
peakid: HIML
year: 2019
route1: NW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Lionel Chatain
sponsor: French Himlung Himal Expedition 2019
approach: Dharapani->Koto->Phu->BC
bcdate: 2019-04-24
smtdate: 2019-04-30
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2019-05-02
campsites: BC(24/04,4950m),C1(26/04,5450m),C2(28/04,6030m),C3(29/04,6200m),Smt(30/04)
agency: Tribeni Treks
routememo:
  BC  24/04  4950m  Chose other site than Kari Kobler (Paulo Grobel's BC instead)
  C1  26/04  5450m
  C2  28/04  6030m
  C3  29/04  6200m
  Smt 30/04  by all members (except Wiedmann) and 3 hired.

  April 26: entire team BC to C1.

  April 27: had initially planned to go to C3 for deposit, then go back to BC. However weather forecaster warned Chatain to go before the 1st of May (90 km/hr wind announced). Neighbouring Japanese team forecaster having the same analysis, with a massiv cyclonic storm to develop in the Gulf of Bengal, and despite being short in acclimatization, they decided they would try the next day for a summit push*.

  On that day, Bruno was not feeling well (problems to kidneys). So the team went back to BC. Chatain organized Bruno heli-rescue for the day after. Meanwhile, the team packed everything then went back up to C1 in the afternoon for sleeping.

  (*A good choice, since in fact later on, Paulo Grobel would face adverse weather conditions; 1 Swiss and 1 Dutch climber would be evacuated from C3 for frostbite).

  April 28: Bruno got heli-rescued from BC to Ktmdu. Rest of the team slept at C2.

  April 29: team slept at C3.

  April 30: At the end of the fixed ropes, leader decided to form 4 separate rope teams, which all summited. By time order:

    12:30, Nima Tamang and Mathieu Voisin
    12:45, Bankaji Tamang and Joaquim Ferreira 
    12:50, Pasang Sherpa and Pascal Pompei
    13:20, Lionel Chatain, Delphine Bourdel and Sylvie Wintenberger

  Windshield effect on that day: -30°C. Entire team slept at C3 after summiting.

  May 1: entire team back to “Grobel's” BC.
  May 2: left BC for Kobler's BC.

  Fixed rope: 330m 
    150m above C3 (steep slope at 40-45° on 80m height; then 70m on the flat ridge)
    180m in the final face (steepest section between 6500 and 6650m).
    Remaining were the last October fixed ropes, at least 400m below 6500m which 
      had not been cleaned.

  Oxygen: Taken, not used (medical emergency only)


expid: JANE19101
peakid: JANE
year: 2019
route1: E Face (up); SE Ridge (down)
nation: Russia
leaders: Sergei Nilov
sponsor: Russian Jannu East Expedition 2019
countries: Poland
approach: By heli to Ghunsa
bcdate: 2019-03-11
smtdate: 2019-03-28
termdate: 2019-04-03
termnote: Abandoned at 7412m due to route conditions & difficulties, supplies, fatigue
campsites: BC(11/03,4800m),Biv1...Biv13,xxx(28/03,7412m),Biv14...Biv17,BC(02/04,4900m)
agency: Dream Himalaya Adventures
routememo:
  BC     4800m  11/03  (on the Yalung Glacier to Yalung BC)
  Biv1   5100m  15/03
  Biv2   5400m  16/03
  Biv3   5600m  17/03
  Biv4   6100m  18/03
  Biv5   6300m  20/03
  Biv6   6450m  21/03
  Biv7   6510m  22/03
  Biv8   6670m  23/03
  Biv9   6900m  24/03
  Biv10  7000m  25/03
  Biv11  7070m  26/03
  Biv12  7100m  27/03
  HPt    7412m  28/03  by Golovchenko and Nilov

  On the descent via SE Ridge
  Biv13  7360m  28/03
  Biv14  6995m  29/03
  Biv15  6511m  30/03
  Biv16  6050m  31/03
  Biv17  5700m  01/04
  BC     4900m  02/04 (on the other side)

  Up to 6100m quite difficult glacier with many crevasses. Route finding difficult. Lot of snow. On the route weather bad, stormy, avalanches. New snow slid off. The climb was in deep snow. They climbed alpine style, no fixed ropes. Route gradually got steeper from about 60 degrees above the glacier to about 90 degrees closer to the ridge.

  Team decided to abandon climb on 27/03 when they were at 7100m. However, as they thought the descent via the E Face would be too dangerous due to avalanches, they decided to go down via the SE Ridge, for that they had to reach their high point of 7412m. The SE Ridge was not too bad for avalanches and they down climbed. The first three days of the descent they had good visibility, but from day 4 visibility was less than 50 metres and route finding was hard. The had radio contact to BC (BC moved over to the SE side). They descended via the Jeunes (youth) Glacier to reach their new BC.

  They left BC on 03/04 and walked to Ghunsa in one day. Then one more day of trekking and then jeep to Taplejung and Bhadrapur. From there flight to Kathmandu.

  Tomaszewski reached 5100m on 15/03. He abandoned the climb due its difficulty and he also had an infected leg due to a tick bite. He helicoptered out of BC on 23/03. 
  Buffer Peak (6532m) Tete de la Dentele

  Climb abandoned on:	27/03 conditions, difficulties, supplies, fatigue.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


expid: KANB19101
peakid: KANB
year: 2019
route1: S Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Romano Benet
sponsor: Nives & Romano Kangbachen Expedition 2019
approach: Yamphudin->Ramche-.BC
bcdate: 2019-04-27
smtdate: 2019-05-02
termdate: 2019-05-06
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to large crevasses
campsites: BC(27/04,5100m),C1(01/05,6250m),xxx(02/05,6300m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Benet and Meroi abandoned their attempt at 6300m due to large crevasses.

  Good weather, except strong wind during the night.


expid: KANG19101
peakid: KANG
year: 2019
route1: SW Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Sherpa Rope-Fixing
sponsor: Sherpa Rope-Fixing Kangchenjunga 2019
smtdate: 2019-05-14
smttime: 1515
campsites: Smt(14/05)
routememo:
  Rope-fixing summiters:

  From Peak Promotion and Seven Summit Treks:
    Lakpa Sherpa, Khotang
    Dawa Phinjok Sherpa, Rolwaling
    Phurba Sherpa, Solukhumbu
    Ang Dorchi Sherpa, Kharikhola
    Phurba Dorchi Sherpa
    Mingmar Sherpa

  From the Himalayan Times (14 May 2019)

  Six Sherpa climbers summit Mt Kanchenjunga
  Rajan Pokhrel

  KATHMANDU: At least six Nepali climbers successfully climbed the world’s third highest mountain this afternoon. Babu Sherpa, Managing Director at Peak Promotion Pvt Ltd told THT from Camp IV that six rope-fixing climbers reached the summit point of Mt Kanchenjunga at around 3:15 pm opening a climbing route to the top of the mountain.

  “The climbing Sherpas deployed by Peak Promotion Pvt Ltd have successfully opened a climbing route from the base camp to the summit of Mt Kanchenjunga,” he said.

  Lakpa Sherpa, Dawa Phinjo Sherpa, Ang Phurba Sherpa, Ang Dorchi Sherpa, Phurba Dorchi Sherpa and Mingma Sherpa stood atop the 8,586-metre peak, Sherpa added.

  According to him, there are 17 Indian climbers attempting to climb the world’s third highest peak this season. “This is the largest ever civilian expedition of Indian climbers on Mt Kanchenjunga,” he said, adding that Umesh Zirpe-led team would also be the first civil team from Maharashtra to scale the peak.

  The team has already reached Camp IV to make the summit push.

  A record at the Department of Tourism shows that at least 34 climbers representing seven different teams have obtained climbing permits for Mt Kanchenjunga this season.


expid: KANG19102
peakid: KANG
year: 2019
route1: SW Face
nation: Mexico
leaders: Viridiana Alvarez Chavez
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Kangchenjunga Expedition 2019
countries: Argentina, Bulgaria, China, Czech Republic, Italy, Japan, Malaysia, Slovenia, Switzerland
approach: Flight to Badrapur, Jeep, trekking to Seram, from Seram to BC by heli
bcdate: 2019-04-19
smtdate: 2019-05-15
smttime: 0445
termdate: 2019-05-17
campsites: BC(19/04,5500m),C2(23/04,6200m),C3(30/04,6980m),C4(14/05,7350m),Smt(15/05)
achievment: Alvarez first Mexican woman on Kangchenjunga
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  19/04  5500m 
  C1    -      -    (never slept at regular C1)
  C2  23/04  6200m 
  C3  30/04  6980m 
  C4  14/04  7350m  (only touched by team before summit push) 
  Smt 15/05  by Alvarez, Stefanov, Rotar, Kolouchova, Sarjanovich, Chhepal Sherpa,
             Lakpa Temba Sherpa, Gyalu Sherpa, Ngima Thenduk Sherpa, Ang Kami Sherpa
  Smt 15/05  by Lavaud, Dawa Sange at 7:15 am (see report below)
  Smt 15/05  by Watanable, Pechhumbe, Kasang Dawa at 7:15 am (see report below)

  Team left C4 at 6 pm on 14/05. Stefanov and Alvarez summited at 4:45 am. Fine weather, good conditions. Wind came from northwest, so they were mostly protected from wind. Cold on the top, -35°C. Stefanov had some problems with his oxygen on the summit; Alvarez’ Sherpa gave him second oxygen bottle.

  Stefanov back to C4 at 9 am. Alvarez all the way down to BC the same day, she was back to BC at 8 pm.

  Sarjanovich left C4 with others and reached the summit at 7:20 am. He was back to C4 at 12:30 pm.

  Rotar and Kolouchova summited at around 5:30 am.

  Blanc came back to Kanchenjunga because he wanted to complete 14x8000 without oxygen. He reached C1 (6000m) on 23/04 and abandoned attempt on 24/04 because he grew worried and didn’t want to risk his health by going without oxygen.

  Wui Kin Chin was on the permit, but died on Annapurna earlier in the season. Li Jian-Hong got sick on Annapurna and abandoned Kanchenjunga attempt. He may be going to Makalu later in the season though.

  Team left BC on 17/05 and returned to Ktmdu on 18/05 by heli from Tapethok.

  Oxygen:
    Used by Stefanov from C4-summit-C4
    by Alvarez from C3-summit-C4
    by Kolouchova, Sarjanovich and Rotar from C4-summit-C3
    Rotar was also given oxygen after the climb in base camp.

  Hired:
    Chhepal Sherpa (S), Okhaldhunga
    Lakpa Temba Sherpa (S), Sankhuwasabha
    Gyalu Sherpa (S), Okhaldhunga
    Ngima Thenduk Sherpa (S), Sankhuwasabha
    Ang Kami Sherpa (S), Sankhuwasabha


  Report from Sophie Lavaud:

  BC  06/05  5500m
  C1    -    6240m
  C2  11/05  6220m
  C3  12/05  6836m
  C4  13/05  7325m
  Smt 15/05  by Lavaud, Dawa Sange at 7.15 am.

  When the team reached C2 on the summit push, it was very windy and it became clear that the Sherpas would not fix the ropes to the summit on 13/05. All climbers decided to stay at C2, but Lavaud and her team continued to C3 and then stayed two nights at C4 to wait for the rope to be fixed.

  On summit day, team left at 5:30 pm on 14/05. Straightforward climb, but very busy on the route, especially on the descent. Spent about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 1 pm. On 16/05, all down to BC and left BC on 17/05.

  Lavaud and Dawa Sange summited Annapurna 1 on 23/04.

  Oxygen:
   Used from C4 to top to C4 by Lavaud and Dawa Sange

  Sherpa:
    Dawa Sange Sherpa, Makalu-9, Makalu-Barun, 25/08/1985


  Report from Naoko Watanabe:

  BC  06/05  5500m
  C1    -    6240m
  C2  11/05  6220m
  C3  12/05  6836m
  C4  13/05  7325m
  Smt 15/05  by Watanabe, Pechhumbe, Kasang Dawa at 7:15 am.

  On summit day, team left at 6 pm on 14/05. Straightforward climb, but very busy on the route, especially on the descent. Spent about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 3 pm. On 16/05, all down to BC and left BC on 17/05 by helicopter from Tapethok.

  Watanabe and Kasang Dawa summited Annapurna 1 on 23/04.

  Oxygen:
    Used from C3 to top to C3 by Watanabe
    From C4 to top to C4 by Pechhumbe and Kasang Dawa

  Sherpas:
    Pecchumbe Sherpa, Tashigaon, Makalu-Barun, 22/09/1987
    Kasang Dawa Sherpa, Makalu-9, Makalu-Barun, 25/11/1992


expid: KANG19103
peakid: KANG
year: 2019
route1: SW Face
nation: India
leaders: Umesh Zirpe
sponsor: Giripremi’s Mt. Kangchenjunga Eco Expedition
bcdate: 2019-04-17
smtdate: 2019-05-15
smttime: 0515
termdate: 2019-05-18
campsites: BC(17/04,5400m),C2(23/04,6280m),C3(13/05,6900m),C4(14/04,7400m),Smt(15/05)
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  BC  17/04  5400m
  C1    -           (never slept in C1)
  C2  23/04  6280m
  C3  13/05  6900m
  C4  14/05  7400m  (only some hours of rest before summit push)
  Smt 15/05  by Anand Mali, Ashish Mane, Bhushan Harshe, Kiran Salastekar, 
             Krishna Dhokale, Prasad Joshi, Sumit Mandale, Rupesh Khopade, 
             Jitendra Gaware, Vivek Shivade plus 10 Sherpas.

  Team set off from C4 on 14/05 at 5 pm. Everyone except Zirpe on summit between 5:15-6:15 am. Everyone back at C4 between 12-4 pm. Next day everyone down to BC. 
  Good summit day, good weather, good conditions.

  Zirpe stayed at BC, never planned to go higher.

  Team left BC on 18/05. Zirpe back to KTM on 19/05 bringing back bodies from other team. Other members are trekking out to Tapethok. They will be back to KTM on 21/05.

  Oxygen: Used by all from C3-summit-C3 (some members to C2).

  Hired:
    Pasang Sherpa (S), Taplejung
    Chhiji Nurbu Sherpa (S), Makalu
    Pema Chiri Sherpa (S), Makalu
    Ongchhu Sherpa (S), Bhojpur
    Phurba Sherpa (S), Makalu 2x summit
    Phu Dorjee Sherpa (S), Makalu
    Tenzing Sherpa (S), Makalu
    Mingmar Sherpa (S), Okhaldhunga
    Pasang Dawa (S), Makalu
    Pasang Sherpa (S), Jarok

  Rope fixing team summiting on 14/05 at 3:30 pm:
    Lhakpa Sherpa, Khotang
    Phurba Sherpa, Solukhumbu
    Ang Dorjee Sherpa, Karikhola
    Dawa Phinjok, Rolwaling


expid: KANG19104
peakid: KANG
year: 2019
route1: SW Face
nation: India
leaders: Biplab Baidya
sponsor: Peak Promotion International Kangchenjunga Expedition 2019
countries: Bulgaria, Chile, Germany, Nepal, Singapore
approach: Heli frfom Tseram for most members
bcdate: 2019-04-17
smtdate: 2019-05-15
termdate: 2019-05-18
campsites: BC(17/04,5500m),C2,C3(13/05,6980m),C4(14/05,7360m),Smt(15/05)
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  Peak Promotion International Kangchenjunga expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-5 climbers each). Peak Promotion provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Swee Chiow Khoo (Singapore)

  Name:  Singaporean on Kangchenjunga 2019
  Appr:  Heli to BC
  Camps: BC(01/05,5500m),C2(06/05,6240m),C3(13/05,6890m),C4(14/05,7360m),
         Smt(15/05)
  Left:  16/05 by heli to Tumlingtar
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success by Khoo and Da Jangbu at 8 am

  Summit team set out from C4 at 6 pm on 14/05. Straightforward climb to about 8200m, from there rock. There were about 60 people on the route so moving was slow. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 3 pm. There was no tent for Khoo so they descended to C3, where they arrived at 6 pm. 
  On his descent, Khoo saw Rodrigo Vivanco in the rocky section (above 8000m) at about noon. They talked, Vivanco was slow, but seemed fine and lucid and said he was headed for the summit. That was the last time Khoo saw him.

  Da Jangbu developed an eye problem on the descent, perhaps snowblindness and when the helicopter tried to rescue the Indians from C4 and could not do it, it landed at C2 and picked up Da Jangbu. The Indians, the helicopter was supposed to rescue, were from the Bengali team and unfortunately, they died up there. According to Khoo, the bodies will be retrieved from C4 in the next few days.

  Ang Tendi (Vajpai’s Sherpa in 2018) reached about 8100m. He had problems with his oxygen and turned back to C4.

  On 16/05 Khoo to BC and left BC on 17/05 by heli to Tumlingtar.

  Oxygen: Used from C3 to top to C3 by Khoo; from C4 to C4 by Da Jangbu.

  Sherpa:
    Da Jangbu, Gudel-6, (Kangchenjunga summit 20/05/2018)
    Ang Tendi, Bupsa


  Atanas Skatov (Bulgaria)
  Franck Irnich (Germany)

  Name:  Bulgarian/German Kangchenjunga Expedition 2019
  Appr:  Heli to BC (Irnich); Happo Khola->Ramche by trek (Skatov)
  Camps: BC(17/04,5500m),C2(28/04,6240m),C3(13/05,6890m),C4(14/05,7360m),
         Smt(15/05)
  Left:  18/05 Skatov by heli to Tumlingtar
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success by Skatov and Pasang Sherpa at 7:33 am, Irnich and Ang Dano at 8 am

  Summit team left C4 at 6 pm on 14/05. Ropes were fixed by the Indian team. After about three hours Irnich felt his feet getting cold. He was contemplating turning back, but there were too many people on the route. He did not have a headlamp as he had given it to his Sherpa and decided to stay with Ang Dano. It was very windy. Otherwise straightforward climb. Skatov had problems with his oxygen regulator and only got a very low flowrate.

  Skatov and Irnich spent about 5 minutes on the summit together. Skatov was up there for about 40 minutes and Irnich for about half an hour. Skatov and Pasang descended (they had to wait for about half an hour due to heavy traffic). Skatov headed down ahead of Pasang and rested at C4 for a bit and descended all the way to BC, where he arrived at around 11:45 pm. Pasang Sherpa stayed the night at C3.

  On his descent with Ang Dano, Irnich stopped at C4 at about 3:30 pm. He also had to wait for a long time on his descent due to traffic jam and too many people. Even though they wanted to continue to C2, they fell asleep and when he woke up, Irnich had almost lost his eye sight. His eyes were swollen and he could not see. He thinks it could have been the beginning of HACE. Ang Dano went out to get more oxygen. They stayed the night at C4. Irnich’s other Sherpa Tek Bahadur Rai (who summited with Babu from India) arrived in the night after the summit and joined the team in the tent. 

  The next morning, Irnich had a lot of pain in his eyes, Tek Rai put a buff over his eyes to put some pressure on them. They started to descend at about 9:30 am. Babu from India also developed an eye problem and was evacuated by helicopter between C3 and C4 (Maya Sherpa joined his ride). When Irnich arrived at the place where the helicopter could land the weather had turned bad and the helicopter could not land. Irnich continued to descend all the way to C3 blind-folded. He was NOT short-roped, but the Sherpas directed him where to go. It took them about 8 hours to get down. He got the news that a helicopter could not rescue him from C3. They stayed the night at C3. There was a big thunderstorm during that night. On 17/05 there was fresh snow on the ground and they had to descend to C2 as he could only be rescued from C2. They descended to C2 which took them about 10 hours. It was cold and windy. When they reached C2 they hoped that a helicopter would come for rescue, but the weather was too bad. Ang Dano descended to BC and Tek stayed with Frank. At 8:30 am the helicopter could land and picked up Irnich. Tek was also flown from C2 to BC with all the bags. 

  Irnich flew directly to Tseram on 18/05, then from Tseram to Kathmandu and straight to CIWEC. His eyes got already a bit better at C2 and when he was back in Kathmandu his eyes were 90% back to normal. Irnich has frostbite on right index finger and on big toes on both feet, and right foot on two more toes.

  Skatov left on 18/05 by heli to Tumlingtar.

  Accidents: Irnich snow-blindnness, frostbite

  Oxygen:
    Used from C3 (intermittently) to C4 and to top to C4 by Skatov and Pasang
    Used from C4 to top C2 by Irnich, used from C3 to top to between C3 and C2
      by Sherpas.


  Maya Sherpa (Nepal)

  Name:  Kangchenjunga Eco Cleaning Expedition 2019 
  Appr:  Heli to BC
  Camps: BC(01/05,5500m),C2(11/05,6240m),C3(13/05,6890m),C4(14/05,7360m),
         Smt(15/05)
  Left:  18/05 by heli to Tumlingtar (together with Skatov)
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success by Maya Sherpa, Mingma Sherpa at 9 am, Tek Bahadur Rai at 9:30 am.

  On summit push, Maya and Mingma left C4 at 5:45 pm on 14/04. Straightforward climb. They stayed about 30 minutes on the summit and descended to C4 where they arrived 5 pm. On their descent, they met Rodrigo Vivanco (the Chilean who died on Kangchenjunga), who was on his way up at about 8400m. He recognised them, but looked tired. 

  On 16/05 Maya and Mingma descended to C2, where they stayed the night. They arrived there at 3 pm and because they were tired they stayed the night. On 17/05, Maya Sherpa took the same helicopter Babu (Indian on same team) was picked up in from C2. She had very painful fingers and toes and found it hard to walk. 

  Maya left BC on 18/05 by heli to Tumlingtar (together with Skatov)

  Oxygen:
    Used from C3 to top C2 by Maya Sherpa
    From C4 to top to C3 by Mingma Sherpa

  Sherpas:
    Mingma Gyalzen Sherpa, Makalu-Barun (Everest summit)
    Tek Bahadur Rai, 03/03/1988
      1st 8000m summit for Tek Bahadur (1st Rai on Kangchenjunga).


  Biplab Baidya (India)
  Rudra Prasad  Halder (India)
  Ramesh Roy (India)
  Kuntal Kanrar (India)
  Sahabuddin (India)

  From www.dreamwanderlust.com website:

  14th May, Night - Five climbers (Sk Sahabuddin, Rudra Prasad Halder, Ramesh Roy, Kuntal Kanrar and Biplab Baidya) from Bengal were left for the summit from C4.

  15th May, Morning - Four climbers (Sk Sahabuddin, Rudra Prasad Halder, Ramesh Roy and Biplab Baidya) have reached the summit.

  15th May, 11:19 - Nirmal Purja along with his project possible teammates have scaled Kangchenjunga.

  15th May, 14:30 - Purja's team started the rescue mission of Biplab Baidya and Kuntal Karar from an elevation of 8450m and 8300m respectively.

  15th May, 15:12 - One member of the Bengal team (possibly Rudra) sent an SOS to his family via GPS device asking for urgent help from an elevation of 8271m.

  15th May Night- Purja's team called off the rescue operation due to lack of helps and O2.

  15th May, 22:00 - Frostbitten Ramesh Roy brought to C4.

  16th May, Morning - Biplab Baidya and Kuntal Kanrar have died presumably in the early hours due to shortage of supplementary oxygen (as reported by the rescuer Nirmal Purja) leading to HAPE (High-Altitude Pulmonary Edema) on their way back from summit or near summit.

  16th May, Evening - Ramesh and Rudra reached C2. Another climber of the same team Sahabuddin has reached the Base Camp.

  17th May, 06:30 - Two injured climbers Ramesh Roy and Rudra Prasad Halder have been heli-rescued from C2.


  Rodrigo Vivanco (Chile)

  Approach: Heli to Tseram

  1 de Mayo 02.00 AM BC
  2 de Mayo CB
  3 de Mayo CB
  4 de Mayo CB
  5 de Mayo CB
  6 de Mayo CB
  7 de Mayo CB
  8 de Mayo CB
  9 de Mayo CB to C1 Left BC at 3 am and arrived C1 at 10 am
  10 de Mayo C1 to C2 Left C1 at 4 pm
  11 de Mayo C2 to bivouac between C2 and C3. Left C2 at 8 am
  12 de Mayo bivouac to C3
  13 de Mayo rest day at C3
  14 de Mayo C3 to C4 arrived at C4 at 9 am and at 6:45 pm started summit push
  15 de Mayo arrived at summit around 6 pm, approximate minute in which the signal of the Inreach continues emitting from the same point 18 hours later.

  Tek Bahadur Rai summited with the two Indians from Peak Promotion on 15/05 at 8:30 am. He descended to C4 and saw Vivanco at about 12 noon and told him to go down as it was still a long way up. Tek Rai together with Maya Sherpa and Babu arrived at C4 at 7 pm on 15/05. Tek Rai stayed in the tent with Irnich (see Irnich’s report).

  When Vivanco was not back at 11 am on 16/05 he decided to pack up Vivanco’s gear and take it down as he did not think he was coming back.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used

  No Sherpa support.


  Hernan Leal report on Rodrigo Vivanco:

  Leal arrived at BC 20/04. Rodrigo arrived on 01/05 when Leal was at BC after his rotation and he was very tired and did not meet Rodrigo before 03/05. Leal invited Rodrigo to his camp on 03/05 to meet him. Rodrigo left BC for summit rotation on 09/05, one day before 10/05. They were both at C2 together when the vestibule of Rodrigo’s tent broke. The weather forecast was bad for the following days. When Leal was on his way from C2 to C3 the storm started and they were looking for Rodrigo, who was coming up very slowly as he had carried all his gear. He never arrived at C3 as he did a bivouac between C2 and C3. At C3, Rodrigo told Leal that he could no longer use his tent as it was broken. He slept in the Peak Promotion Sherpa tents. At C3 Rodrigo put his sleeping bag on top of the tent and the tent blew it away and threw it into a crevasse. Rodrigo wanted to get his sleeping bag in the crevasse, but the others talked him into going back. Leal was at C4 on 13/05 and Rodrigo arrived at C4 on 14/05.
   
  On summit day, Leal met Rodrigo when he came down. Rodrigo was on his way up. They were at about 8000m and Rodrigo was lucid but, of course, tired. They talked and then they parted. That was the last time Leal saw Vivanco.

  Apparently Nirmal Purja overtook Rodrigo on his way up and Nirmal tried to convince him to come down. But of course, he refused.


  Rodrigo Vivanco sighting (25 May 2023) by Vadim Druelle:

  Then VD started his descent. 15 minutes later, after starting to down-scramble the upper traverse section, down to the route VD saw some blood on a stone and lower down to it, at circa 8560m, a dead body wearing classic La Sportiva boots (“I can recognize this type very easily”): that was the one of Rodrigo Vivanco, who died in 2019 after summiting. Continuing further down, VD would see an other dead body, all black, apparently sitting stiff on the ridge down to “5c” (see topographic report). Real body? Or just a black rock? [Afterwards the second option seems the most likely since no one has been reported dead in such awkward location in a recent time, plus many of such black rocks are to be found in the area]. Since he felt cold, he didn’t make much stops and went back down smoothly.


expid: KANG19105
peakid: KANG
year: 2019
route1: SW Face
nation: Chile
leaders: Hernan Leal
sponsor: FastCo Boyden Kangchenjunga Expedition 2019
approach: Heli to Tseram
bcdate: 2019-04-20
smtdate: 2019-05-15
smttime: 0515
termdate: 2019-05-17
campsites: BC(20/04,5500m),C1(24/04,6200m),C2(28/04,6100m),C3(29/04,7000m),C4(13/05,7500m),Smt(15/05)
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  BC  20/04  5500m
  C1  24/04  6200m
  C2  28/04  6100m
  C3  29/04  7000m
  C4  13/05  7500m
  Smt 15/05  by Leal, Lhakpa Tshering Sherpa, Lakpa Chhiri Sherpa, Chheten Sherpa
             and Rajan Bhote by 5:15 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 5:05 am on 14/04. The Sherpas were fixing the ropes and the snow was about 40cm deep but also soft. From 8300m the conditions were good – hard snow. They opened the route to 8400m. Leal’s oxygen regulator broke and he had to change it then. A group of Japanese, Bulgarian and Mexican past him. They stayed about half an hour on the summit. It was very cold but clear. They descended to C4, where they arrived at midday. On 16/05 to BC and left BC on 17/05 by heli.

  Oxygen:
    Used from C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas, C4 to top to C3 by Leal.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Tshering Sherpa (with Leal on Everest in 2017)
    Lhakpa Chhiri Sherpa (with Leal on Everest in 2017)
    Chheten Dorje herpa (brother of Lhakpa Tshering and Lhakpa Chhiri)
    Rajan Lama Bhote


  Hernan Leal report on Rodrigo Vivanco:

  Leal arrived at BC 20/04. Rodrigo arrived on 01/05 when Leal was at BC after his rotation and he was very tired and did not meet Rodrigo before 03/05. Leal invited Rodrigo to his camp on 03/05 to meet him. Rodrigo left BC for summit rotation on 09/05, one day before 10/05. They were both at C2 together when the vestibule of Rodrigo’s tent broke. The weather forecast was bad for the following days. When Leal was on his way from C2 to C3 the storm started and they were looking for Rodrigo, who was coming up very slowly as he had carried all his gear. He never arrived at C3 as he did a bivouac between C2 and C3. At C3, Rodrigo told Leal that he could no longer use his tent as it was broken. He slept in the Peak Promotion Sherpa tents. At C3 Rodrigo put his sleeping bag on top of the tent and the tent blew it away and threw it into a crevasse. Rodrigo wanted to get his sleeping bag in the crevasse, but the others talked him into going back. Leal was at C4 on 13/05 and Rodrigo arrived at C4 on 14/05.
   
  On summit day, Leal met Rodrigo when he came down. Rodrigo was on his way up. They were at about 8000m and Rodrigo was lucid but, of course, tired. They talked and then they parted. That was the last time Leal saw Vivanco.

  Apparently Nirmal Purja overtook Rodrigo on his way up and Nirmal tried to convince him to come down. But of course, he refused.


expid: LANG19101
peakid: LANG
year: 2019
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Felix Berg
sponsor: German-Polish Langtang Expedition 2019
countries: Poland
approach: Shyabru Besi->Kyanjin Gompa->BC
bcdate: 2019-04-15
smtdate: 2019-05-13
termdate: 2019-05-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to low visibility
campsites: BC(15/04,4300m),C1A(24/04,5300m),C1B(29/04,5500m),C2(12/05,6000m),xxx(13/05,6200m)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  BC  15/04  4300m (1.30 hrs 500m above Kyanjin Gompa)
  C1A 24/04  5300m (on SE Ridge, too far to the left)
  C1B 29/04  5500m (on SE Ridge, but farther to the right)
  C2  12/05  6000m
  HPt 13/05  6200m by Bielecki and Berg.

  On 24/04, they set up their C1 on the SE Ridge, however, it was too far to the left.

  On 25/04 they ascended to 5500m, but found that the ridge was too far away from the route. They packed up and descended to BC.

  On 29/04, they ascended again and put C1 in the right spot. They continued to 5750m in Ok weather until the afternoon precipitation moved in. On 30/04, they descended to BC and left the tent at C1.

  The following week was very windy.

  On 11/05, they returned to C1 (at the end of the couloir) and continued on the ridge on 12/05 and set up C2 on the ridge.

  On 13/05, they continued up the SE Ridge to 6200m. They intended to set up a C3, but there was too snowy and no visibility at all. They descended to BC the same day and abandoned the expedition.

  Team left BC on 15/05 and returned to Ktmdu on 17/05 by heli from Kyanjin Gompa.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


expid: LCHA19101
peakid: LCHA
year: 2019
route1: W side
nation: Australia
leaders: Tim Macartney-Snape
countries: USA
approach: Flight to Simikot->Lachama Valley
bcdate: 2019-05-07
smtdate: 2019-05-14
termdate: 2019-05-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to bad weather (recon expedition only)
campsites: BC(07/05,4500m),ABC(09/05,5400m),xxx(14/05,6100m)
agency: Highland Excursions
routememo:
  Approach: from Simikot airport to Lachama valley (arriving 6 May).

  BC  07/05  4500m unamed glacier southwest of Gave Ding
  ABC 09/05  5400m
  Hpt 14/05  6100m by all members (little above col towards Gave Ding South Face)

  May 09: 5400m ABC

  May 11: fixing rope to 6000m, back to ABC.

  May 14: from col, watched S side of Lachama Chuli, selecting the option of reaching the col below SE Ridge. Went down on glacier of Tibetan side afoot of Lachama Chuli and stopped there. Back to col, tried up to 6100m above it on easy route towards Gave Ding. Then weather changed suddenly and all went back to ABC. Decided to abandon on that day due to the weather.

  May 15: left BC.
   
  Days after, went towards 5000er pass the north of Simikot and back to it.

  Fixed rope: 400m in the way up to the col

  Climb abandoned on May 14 due to bad weather. Left BC on  May 15

  Route: didn't climb the peak, reconnaissance of south side of the moutain.           
  Oxygen: Taken (for emergency only), not used.

  Members:
    Tim Macartney-Snape
    10 clients 

  Hired:
    Nawang Dorje Sherpa
    Tshering Bhote
    Rabin Tamang


expid: LHOT19101
peakid: LHOT
year: 2019
route1: W Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Mingma Gyalje Sherpa
sponsor: Imagine Nepal Lhotse Expedition 2019
countries: China, Greece, India, Pakistan
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-13
smtdate: 2019-05-14
smttime: 0945
termdate: 2019-05-23
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-191-32)
campsites: BC(13/04,5300m),C1(25/04,5900m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(11/05,7100m),C4(13/05,7700m),Smt(14/05)
agency: Imagine Nepal
primid: EVER19132
routememo:
  Christina Flampouri (with the team) set off at 2 am from BC on 10 May, reached C2 on 11 May in 6 hours. She arrived C3 on 12 May in 6 hours and stayed at C3 for 2 more nights due to the windy weather. Then she arrived C4 in 6 hours and stayed there for 2 hours. She started summit push at 11 pm on 13 May and summited at 9:45 am on 14 May. 5 climbers summited at the same time with the Sherpa rope-fixing team. On the team, Sirbaz Khan had a little bit frostbite because they were with the rope-fixing team for 8-10 hours and it was too cold. On the team 5 climbers and 7 Sherpas all summited. Flampouri summited Everest on 20 May as well.

  Sykaris is listed with his own Makalu-Lhotse expedition (LHOT-191-02).


expid: LHOT19102
peakid: LHOT
year: 2019
route1: W Face
nation: Greece
leaders: Antonios Sykaris
sponsor: Antonios Sykaris Makalu-Lhotse Expedition 2019
approach: From Makalu->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-05-08
smtdate: 2019-05-14
smttime: 0945
termdate: 2019-05-17
campsites: BC(08/05,5350m),C2(10/05,6400m),C3(11/05,7100m),C4(13/05,7700m),Smt(14/05)
agency: Imagine Nepal
primid: MAKA19108
routememo:
  Makalu (1st Attempt)
  BC  16/04  4800m
  ABC 19/04  5700m
  C1  20/04  6250m
  C2  21/04  6620m
  HPt 24/04  6700m by Sykaris and Pasang Sherpa.

  Sykaris had a bad cough and as he wanted to see a doctor he took a helicopter to Pangboche on 02/05. He saw a doctor in Pangboche who told him to recover, so he stayed in Pangboche until 08/05 and then he flew to Lhotse/Everest BC as Mingma of Imagine Nepal told him to come and climb Lhotse as his team was going up. He should then go back to Makalu afterwards.  

  Lhotse
  BC  08/05  5350m
  C1   --
  C2  10/05  6400m
  C3  11/05  7100m
  C4  13/05  7700m
  Smt 14/05  by Sykaris at 9:30 am [9:45 am].

  Sykaris left C4 at midnight together with Imagine’s group. The couloir had been fixed by Mingma’s Sherpas on 14/05. Straightforward climb. He stayed about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where he arrived at 4 pm. On 15/05 C2 and on 16/05 BC.

  Oxygen taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 by Sykaris.

  Left BC to go back to Makalu: 17/05 helicopter to Namche. When he arrived in Namche, he went to see a doctor because of his cough and the doctor told him that he had pulmonary edema and should go home. But he did not and stayed in Namche for 6 nights. On 24/05 helicopter from Namche directly to Makalu ABC.

  Makalu (2nd Attempt)
  ABC 24/05  5700m
  C1    --
  C2  25/05  6620m
  C3  27/05  7480m
  HPt 27/05  7800m by Sykaris, Pasang and one more Sherpa at 10:30 pm.

  HPt team left C3 6:30 pm. They ascended to C4, past C4 and did not find the fixed rope and climbed off the route. They reached 7800m, Syrkaris noticed that they were going the wrong way as they were not traversing across the slope, but they were going straight up. Pasang Sherpa said that the rope was buried underneath the ice and that they could not go up. However, as it turned out there was no fixed rope there as they were in the wrong place. When they noticed they turned back to C3, where they arrived at 12:30 am on 28/05. The next morning they descended to ABC, which took them about 8 hours. Team left Makalu ABC on 29/05 by heli.
      
  Oxygen: Used from C3 to high point to just before C2 by Sykaris and Sherpa (to ABC).


expid: LHOT19103
peakid: LHOT
year: 2019
route1: W Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Inigo Castineyra Lerchundi
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks International Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2019
countries: Argentina, Brazil, Chile, China, India, Japan, Mexico, Pakistan, Poland, USA
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-23
smtdate: 2019-05-16
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2019-05-26
campsites: BC(23/04,5350m),C1(25/04,5900m),C2(26/04,6440m),C3(14/05,7000m),C4(15/05,7800m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  23/04  5350m
  C1  25/04  5900m
  C2  26/04  6440m
  C3  14/05  7000m
  C4  15/05  7700m
  Smt 16/05  by Mingote (w/o O2) at 1:30 pm and Mohr (w/o O2) at 3:30 pm.

  Details of Salazar, Fiamoncini, Mohr and Mingote from Mohr:

  Salazar and Mingote left C4 at 3 am, Fiamoncini and Mohr left at 4 am. Salazar reached 8200m, but turned back at about 5 pm as it was too hard. Fiamoncini reached 8300m at 3:30 pm and descended due to the weather and the time as it was too late.

  Summit team spent about 20 minutes on the summit, but the weather was too windy. They all descended to C4 where they reunited with the rest of the team. When they left C4 to descend to C2, they saw Ivan Tomov literally dying. Mohr tied him to the fixed rope and Mohr and Fiamoncini started dragging him down. They took off his crampons to drag him down better and suddenly he died at about 7800m. They left him there at about 11 am and continued down to C2, where they arrived at 4 pm. On 18/05 Salazar and Garranzo descended to BC.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used by O2-using Everest and Lhotse members from C2 to summit to base
      of Lhotse and Sherpas from C3 to summit to base of Lhotse face.


  Details of Witkowska from Witkowska:

  Witkowska with Rima Sherpa started from C4 at 3 am. Summit at 11 am. Deceased Ivan Tomov was on summit with them. They took photos of each other. Tomov without oxygen. Witkowska with Rima on summit for 20-30 minutes. On the top wind picked up and weather deteriorated. They got back to C2 at 7 pm approximately. Left BC on 24/05 by helecopter.

  Ali Sadpara summited 10 minutes after her, Witkowska says.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from 7200m to summit and down to C2 by member
    From C3 to summit and down to C2 by Sherpa.


  Details of Mingote, Mohr and Sadpara from Mingote:

  They started between 3-4 am from C4. Sadpara hit by a rock in face at maybe 8000m, he started taking oxygen from there and continued ascent and summited at 12 pm. Mingote hit by rock at chest.

  Mingote summited at 1:30 pm. He stayed on summit for 40 minutes. Back to C4 at 4 pm. Fiamoncini reached highpoint at 8300m. Weather not so good, a lot of wind, and he decided to turn around.

  Next morning (17/05) Nadia (Russian) called for help. Tomov from Bulgaria in very bad condition. Mohr and Mingote tried to help him down the face on a mattress. Bulgarian died at 10 am on 17/05. Probably edema. He died 20 metres below C4.  

  Mingote wanted to climb Everest after Lhotse but abandoned plan because of throat infection and broken rip. Mohr now trying Everest without oxygen, Fiamoncini trying with oxygen.


  Details of Castineyra and Garranzo from Castineyra:

  BC  29/04
  C1  02/05
  C2  13/05
  C3  14/05
  C4  15/05  7850m
  Smt 16/05  by Inigo Castineyra, Lakpa Sherpa at 10:30 am, Carlos Garranzo, 
             Dorjee Sherpa at 11:30 am.

  Castineyra and Garranzo started from C4 at 2 am on 16/05. Castineyra with Lakpa on summit at 10:30 am, stayed on the summit for 20 minutes, back to C4 at 3:30 pm. Good weather, but a little bit of snow. Witkowska on the summit at 10:30 am. 
  Garranzo and Dorjee reached summit at 11:30 am. They got back to C4 at 3:30 pm.   
  Left BC on 20/05 heli to Lukla.

  Castineyra frostbite on one finger.

  Oxygen: 
    Used by Castineyra from C3 to summit and down to C4, by Lakpa Sherpa from 
    C4-summit-C4; by Garranzo and Dorjee Sherpa from C4 to summit and down to little
    bit before C4.

  Sherpas: 
    Lakpa Sherpa (S) 
    Dorjee Sherpa (S)


  Piyali Basak turned back on 23 May from Everest Balcony due to altitude sickness and was heli-rescued from C2. She had planned to summit Everest and Lhotse on consecutive days.


expid: LHOT19105
peakid: LHOT
year: 2019
route1: W Face
nation: UK
leaders: Dani Fuller
sponsor: SummitClimb Lhotse Expedition 2019
countries: India, Spain, USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-17
smtdate: 2019-05-22
termdate: 2019-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to over-crowding of rope lines on Lhotse face
campsites: BC(15/04,5350m),C1(19/04,5800m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(06/05,7200m),xxx(22/05,7600m)
agency: Everest Parivar
primid: EVER19114
routememo:
  BC  15/04  5350m
  C1  19/04  5800m (carried their own loads)
  C2  24/04  6400m
  C3  06/05  7200m
  HPt 22/05  7600m by Turner and Akers.

  High point team left C3 for summit attempt at 3.30pm on 22/05. They were stuck at the fixed ropes as too many people were on the fixed ropes coming down. At one point they noticed that it would take too long to get up due to the amount of people. They say their reason for abandoning the climb was bad planning. They turned back at around 7 pm to C3 to spend the night.

  On 23/05 they descended to C2 and 24/05 BC and left BC by trekking.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used

  The other members were on the Lhotse permit for alpine-training purposes only and only intended to go to C3.


expid: LHOT19106
peakid: LHOT
year: 2019
route1: S Col-W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Mike Hamill
sponsor: Climbing the Seven Summits (CTSS) Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2019
countries: Ecuador, Germany, Iceland, Qatar
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-15
smtdate: 2019-05-22
termdate: 2019-04-15
agency: TAGnepal Trekking
primid: EVER19117
campsites:
  BC(15/04,5350m),C1(24/04,5900m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(20/05,7300m),C4(21/05,7900m),EverSmt(22/05),LhotSmt(23)

routememo:
  C1  24/04  5900m
  C2  26/04  6400m
  C3  20/05  7300m
  C4  21/05  7900m
  Ever Smt 22/05 by Ktiri, Badar, Freire plus Sherpas
  Lhot Smt 23/05 by Kitri and Namgel Dorje Tamang at 8:30 am; Freire, Badar and Ang 
                 Tshering (aka Kami) Sherpa at 6 am.

  After summiting Everest on 22/05 at 2:30 am, Lhotse summit team descended to Everest C4, where they arrived at 8:30 am. They stayed at Everest C4 and rested there. At 12:30 am they traversed from Everest C4 to Lhotse C4, where they had a short 10-minute break. They continued to the summit, stayed there for about 10 minutes and descended to C2, where they arrived at 4 pm. On 24/05 down to BC. Team left BC on 29/05.

  Robert Kay only climbed to C2. Altitude issues forced him to abandon his attempt.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C2 to tops to C2 by Badar
    Taken and used from C3 to tops to C2 by all other members
    Taken and used from C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.


  Bjarni Armannsson and Thierry D'Hers were clients of AAI on the TAGNepal permit.


expid: LHOT19107
peakid: LHOT
year: 2019
route1: W Face
nation: Russia
leaders: Oxana Morneva
sponsor: Makalu Extreme Lhotse Expedition 2019
countries: Canada
approach: BC by helicopter
bcdate: 2019-04-16
smtdate: 2019-05-20
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2019-05-25
campsites: BC(16/04,5350m),C1(6000m),C2(6500m),C3(7200m),C4(7800m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Makalu Extreme Treks
routememo:
  BC  16/04  5350m
  C1         6000m
  C2         6500m
  C3         7200m
  C4         7800m
  Smt 20/0   by Morneva, Dorchi, Morozov, Pasang Dorje and Pasang Lama at 1 pm.

  Summit team left C4 at 8 pm on 19/05. They spent about 5 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at around 10:30 pm. Conditions on the mountain were very icy.

  Other members for Lhotse: Dmitry Volschuk and Vasily Kernitskiy reached BC, but where both sick and left the expedition early. 

  Team left BC on 25/05by foot

  Oxygen: Used from C2 to top to C2 by Morneva, other members from C3

  Aviation assisted: Morozov took a helicopter from C2.

  SherpaS;
    Pasang Dorje, Samde, Khumbu  27/04/1993
    Pasang Lama, Hatiya-1, Makalu, 02/11/1984
    Dorchi (Oxana’s new husband)


expid: LHOT19108
peakid: LHOT
year: 2019
route1: W Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Chatur Tamang
sponsor: Cha-Tours Treks & Expeditions Everest-Lhotse 2019
countries: Azerbaijan, Bulgaria, Kazakhstan, Mexico, Russia
approach: BC by helicopter
bcdate: 2019-04-15
smtdate: 2019-05-16
smttime: 0920
termdate: 2019-05-25
campsites: BC(15/04,5350m),C1(23/04,6000m),C2(24/04,6500m),C3(26/04,7200m),C4(15/05,7800m),Smt(16,22/05)
agency: Chatours Treks
primid: EVER19135
routememo:
  BC  15/04  5350m
  C1  23/04  6000m
  C2  24/04  6500m
  C3  26/04  7200m by Tomov, Runova, Danyalov
  C4  15/05  7800m
  Smt 16/05  by Pasang Chiring and Sadetskiy at 9.20am (with O2), Tomov and 
             Runova at 1:30 pm (w/o O2)
  Smt 22/05  by Ashurly, Telnov, Lakpa Sherpa at 6 am

  16/05 summit team left C4 at 2:30 am. On the ascent, the climb was quite straightforward, however, the climbers were tired. For the descent, see section “Ivan Tomov’s death”.

  22/05 summit team left C4 at midnight. Straightforward climb. They spent about 10 minutes on the summit, and descended to C4, where they arrived at 8:30 am, they rested for a few hours and continued to C2, where they reached at 4 pm. On 23/05 down to BC.

  Other members:

  Danyalov reached C3 on 26/04 on acclimatization rotation. However, when he was at BC and heard about Tomov’s death, he decided not to go up.

  Casasola reached C2 on 24/04. He did not sleep well and did not acclimatize well so he abandoned the expedition. He left BC on 09/05.

  Team left BC on 25/05by foot.

  Oxygen:
    Used from C3 to top to C3 by Ashurly, Telnov, Lakpa Zarok, Saddetskiy and 
      Pasang Chhiring
    Tomov did not take oxygen until he collapsed at C4
    Runova took oxygen from 7700m on her descent to 7000m (she did NOT use O2 on 
      the ascent).

  Ivan Tomov’s death:

  On his way up Tomov was very tired. Gabriel Filippi talked to him, but Tomov did not respond. He thought he had hypoxia. On his way down Tomov met Ali Sadpara and Monica Witkowska and stayed in a tent with Sadpara at C4. Sadpara said Tomov was very tired and thirsty, but they did not have enough gas to prepare water. At 4 pm, Runova called BC and said she was descending, but had problems finding the couloirs due to bad visibility. BC told her to call every hour, but she failed to call at 5 pm. They were worried about her and sent up Pasang Chhiring, who was at C3 with Sadetskiy, with oxygen. At 8 pm, Pasang Chhiring got back to C4 and saw Runova in her tent and said she was fine. She had arrived there at about 7:30 pm. In the meantime, Sadetskiy had descended to C2. After Runova had told Pasang Chhiring that she was fine, he descended to C2, where he arrived at midnight.

  Runova was in another tent, but she did not know that Tomov was still at C4, she thought he had gone down, but he was in the tent with Ali Sadpara from Pakistan. He said Tomov arrived there at about 3:30 pm. In the morning of 17/05, Ali Sadpara called Runova and said that Tomov had a problem. Runova radioed BC. She gave him dexamethasone and oxygen (there was oxygen at C4 as Tamang, the expedition leader, had sent it up as they did not have news from Runova). Runova bumped into Mohr and Mingote who helped her to drag Tomov down. They managed to get him down to about 20m below C4, where he died at 1:30 pm. Pasang Lama and Pasang Dorjee from Makalu Extreme were at C2 that morning and left at 10 am to go up to help him. However, Tomov had died in the meantime. They met Runova at the Yellow Band (7700m) and gave her oxygen, put her on a short rope and dragged her down to C2, where she arrived at 4 pm.

  On 20/05 Ivan’s body was dragged to C2 by the Sherpas and then picked up by helicopter.


expid: LHOT19109
peakid: LHOT
year: 2019
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: John All
sponsor: Environmental Research Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2019
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-16
smtdate: 2019-05-23
smttime: 1199
termdate: 2019-05-28
campsites: BC(16/04,5350m),C1(29/04,5900m),C2(30/04,6440m),C3(21/05,7000m),C4(22/05,7800m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Himalayan Ecstasy Treks (Happy Feet pmt)
primid: EVER19139
routememo:
  BC  16/04  5350m
  C1  29/04  5900m
  C2  30/04  6440m
  C3  21/05  7000m
  C4  22/05  7800m
  Smt 23/05  by Dunn (with Aymard) at 11 am.
  Smt 23/05  by John All, Anup Gurung at 12 noon

  Vickowski reached 6800m at the bottom of the Lhotse Face. He had HAPE on 17/05, returned to C2 and waited until 18/05 to be picked up by a helicopter on 20/05.

  Dunn left the expedition due to conflict and joined up with Orianne Aymard and summited with her on 23/05.

  Hired:
    Anup Gurung, Swara-5, Ghurka 26/03/1989


expid: LHOT19110
peakid: LHOT
year: 2019
route1: W Face
nation: France
leaders: Orianne Aymard
sponsor: French Lhotse Expedition 2019
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-17
smtdate: 2019-05-23
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2019-05-27
campsites: BC(17/04,5350m),C1(29/04,5900m),C2(30/04,6440m),C3(21/05,7000m),C4(22/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Himalayan Ecstasy Treks (Happy Feet pmt)
routememo:
  BC  17/04  5350m
  C1  29/04  5900m
  C2  30/04  6440m
  C3  21/05  7000m
  C4  22/05  7900m
  Smt 23/05 by Aymard and Pemba Sherpa at 11 am.

  They left C4 at 3 am. One of Aymard’s crampons came off at the bottom of the couloir, but luckily the climber just below her managed to catch it before it fell any distance. Other than that the climb was straightforward. They stayed on the summit for about 10 minutes. During the descent to C4 they got caught in bad weather and arrived back at C4 at about 3 pm, where they spent the night. The following day 24/05 they descended to C2, stayed the night there, then descended to BC on 25/05 and left BC on 27/05.

  Aymard requested a Rai called Abiral (Rai) who she had climbed with previously. However Abiral became ill at C2 on the summit rotation and was unable to continue, so Aymard was allocated Pemba Sherpa in his place.

  Aymard has no biodata for Pemba, however she did have information on Abiral Rai. She had previously climbed with Abiral on an expedition to Himlung in October 2018. 
  Although her Himlung expedition services (Sherpas, etc.) were supplied by Himalayan Ecstasy, she was on the permit of an agency called Wild Yak Expeditions. According to Aymard she and Abiral summited on 28/10/18, although she says that her summit certificate has the incorrect date of 31/10/18. She was also told that she was the 3rd French woman to summit Himlung.

  Oxygen: Both Aymard and Pemba used oxygen from C3 to the summit and back to C4. They would have used oxygen to descend lower, but by the time they reached C4 they had run out. Aymard said she was supposed to have 4 cylinders which should have been enough to descend to C3, but she is pretty sure they only had 3 cylinders.

  On leaving C3 Aymard immediately had problems with her oxygen mask. At C3 she was given a mask which she knew was not hers. When she started using the mask it became apparent that it was defective as there was very little oxygen flowing through it. On reaching C4 the mask broke completely - the tube snapped off at the point where it joins the mask. They did not have a spare mask with them, but eventually Pemba managed to borrow one from a Sherpa from another team who was descending from the South Col.


expid: LHOT19111
peakid: LHOT
year: 2019
route1: S Col-W Face
nation: Canada
leaders: Gabriel Filippi
sponsor: Triple Crown Everest-Lhotse-Nuptse Expedition 2019
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-10
smtdate: 2019-05-16
smttime: 1045
termdate: 2019-05-19
agency: Happy Feet Mountaineers
primid: EVER19136
campsites:
  BC(10/04,5350m),C1(28/04,6000m),C2(29/04,6440m),C3(13/05,7100m),C4(14/04,7900m),EverSmt(15/05),LhotSmt(16/05)

routememo:
  BC  10/04  5350m
  C1  28/04  6000m
  C2  29/04  6440m
  C3  13/05  7100m
  C4  14/05  7900m
  EVER Smt 15/05 by Filippi, Sonam Sherpa at 11:11 am
  LHOT Smt 16/05 by Filippi, Sonam Sherpa at 10:45 am.

  Filippi and Sonam left C4 at 1:30 am. There were hardly any people on the route. Straightforward climb. They spent about 10 minutes on the summit. It was very cold and windy. They descended to C4 where they arrived at 4 pm.

  On 16/05, the team left C4 at 3 am. They descended to Lhotse C4, where they arrived at 3:45 am. Then up to Lhotse. He passed a few people (Chatur Tamang). At about 200m below the summit, they came across an Italian climber, who was a bit confused and told them he did not have a Sherpa or oxygen. Filippi thought that he needed a rescue, but his Sherpa arrived. When they reached the summit, they met Ivan Tomov, who later died at C4 in his tent. Filippi thought he was acting a bit weird. Sonam and Filippi stayed on the summit for about 15 minutes and when they went down, they asked Tomov to come down with them, but he said he wanted to wait for his team member. This was the last time Filippi saw Tomov.

  They descended to C2, where they arrived 4 pm. On 17/05 BC and left BC on 19/05.

  Eric Contant was intending to climb Lhotse only reached 6400m on the first rotation. He had troubles with his eye and left BC.

  Filippi was intending to do the Triple Crown, but abandoned the idea on 16/05 because of lack of equipment.

  Sherpa:
   Sonam Sherpa, Taskindu, 18/04/1998

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top of Everest to top of Lhotse and down to C3 by 
      Filippi; from C4 to top of Everest to top of Lhotse to C3 by Sherpa.


expid: LHOT19113
peakid: LHOT
year: 2019
route1: W Face
nation: India
leaders: Keval Kakka
sponsor: Satori Adventures Lhotse Expedition 2019
countries: UK
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-12
smtdate: 2019-05-21
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2019-05-23
campsites: BC(12/04,5400m),C1(21/04,6000m),C2(01/05,6400m),C3(14/05,7100m),C4(20/05,7800m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Satori Adventures
primid: EVER19141
routememo:
  BC  12/04  5400m
  C1  21/04  6000m
  C2  01/05  6400m
  C3  14/05  7100m
  C4  20/05  7800m
  Smt 21/05  by Kakka and Nima Sherpa and Pemba Tashi Sherpa.

  Summit days:
  May 15: started at night at c10:30-10:45 pm.
  May 16: from Balcony got windy at night with sprindrifts, not much visibility.
          Light broke on below the south summit with a little accalmy, then from 
          South Summit got windy again until the smt. Cold. Smt of EVER reached at 
          9:02 am. Cold on summit, but Ok. Back to C4 at c1 pm.
  May 17: from C4 to C2.
  May 18: C2, weather not good. Aimed for Lhotse, but had to wait for weather to
          improve.
  May 19: same as May 18. 
  May 20: went from C2 to C4 of Lhotse.
  May 21: started at 1 am, was very windy in the couloir. Smt of LHOT reached at 
          6:30 am, back to C1.
  May 22: C1 to BC
  May 23: left BC to Namche
  May 24: Namche to Lukla.

  Oxygen:
    EVER taken from C3 to summit back to C3
    LHOT from C3 to smt back to C3.
    Same pattern for his Sherpas.


expid: LHOT19114
peakid: LHOT
year: 2019
route1: S Col-W Face
nation: France
leaders: Elisabeth Revol
sponsor: Revol Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2019
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-12
smtdate: 2019-05-24
smttime: 0940
termdate: 2019-05-26
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-191-58)
agency: Satori Adventures
primid: EVER19158
campsites:
  BC(12/04,5400m),C1(15/04,6000m),C2(16/04,7100m),C3(7100m),C4(22/05,7900m),EVER.Smt(23/05),Smt(24/05)

routememo:
  BC  12/04  5400m
  C1  15/04  6000m
  C2  16/04  6450m
  C3  ??/04  7100m
  C4  22/05  7900m
  EVER.Smt 23/05 by Revol, Anup Rai and Thuktang Sherpa at 10:50 am
  LHOT.Smt 24/05 by Revol at 9:40 am.

  Had acclimatization on Lobuche East.

  Revol first intended to climb on Everest for her sole holidays pleasure, not for doing anything else than "fulfilling a child dream" (had a picture of Everest West Ridge when she was young in her room, with a pray sentence below it - her family being Christian). She wasn't here for doing any kind of performance, but making it as a regular Everest climber (jummaring, taking oxygen if necessary, not properly climbing), this to take the less risks as possible towards her husband. However if possible, she would try without oxygen as high as possible to test her limits. This would be her first expedition on the high peaks after the psychological personal crisis following Nanga Parbat tragedy of 2018.

  Revol had told nothing about her expedition to any press or media back to France prior to her departure, intending to climb for he sole discrete pleasure.

  Summits days (EVER+LHOT): 

  May 22: Revol started at 10 pm. She first intended to start at midnight or 1 am, but afternoon of 23rd was announced with bad weather (the one which stopped Goettler), so choose to start earlier. Since she had seen the potential coming crowd at South Col and knowing that weather forecast, she took an oxygen bottle and knew she would use it.

  May 23: Just before dawn, was stopped 1h for a first traffic jam straight below the Balcony. With wind raising, blocked, focused on her extremities (moving fingers), she begun to take oxygen, which she would keep to the summit. In a mixed zone after the Balcony, would have a new stop for traffic jam. Then wouldn't be much annoyed by the queue at Hillary Step. She summited Everest at 10:50 am with her 2 Sherpas. Cold, but not especially on top (windy but with sunlight and sunshine, acceptable). Did pictures, Gopro, stayed maximum 30 min on top. Sent a SMS with her Garmin Inreach to inform her husband about her success with oxygen. On descent Anup Rai (cook) froze part of his right face (mask not well tight). Revol reached C4 in beginning of the afternoon, her Sherpas later.

  Still focusing on her next climb, Revol was informed about a bad weather forecast for the afternoon of 24th, so she knew she would have to start as soon as possible, that with the use oxygen (“since I had use it already on Everest before that and that I had a short weather window, was even not a question using oxygen or not in such context”). Wind rose at 10 pm, still blowing at midnight. At 3 am on next day however it eventually calmed down, so that Revol straight prepared to use that short weather window.

  May 24: Revol alone this time started from C4 (after 4:30 am) down to C4 Lhotse, then climbed up normal route to summit Lhotse at 9:30 am (Inreach time). Spent time gently on top enjoying the view, made a nice summit video in clear sky conditions. Back to C2. Intended to go back down to BC, but since Keval (India) was staying in a bad shape at C1, Rishi Bhandari of Satori Adventures asked her to stay at C2 that night.

  May 25: C2 to BC.

  Revol left BC on May 26.

  Oxygen: Taken from straight below the Balcony to the top, back to C4. Not used for sleeping at C4. Day after from South Col C4 to the top of Lhotse via Lhotse C4, back to somewhere between Lhotse C4 and C3.

  Hired:
    Anup Sherpa
    Tentuk [Thuktang] Sherpa

  Revol used 2 Sherpas in case of emergency, in case she would have tried without oxygen.


expid: LHOT19116
peakid: LHOT
year: 2019
route1: W Face
nation: Poland
leaders: Waclaw Kruk
sponsor: Pioneer Adventure Lhotse Expedition 2019
approach: Lukla->Namche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-15
smtdate: 2019-05-20
termdate: 2019-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to exhaustion
agency: Pioneer Adventure (Happy Feet pmt)
routememo:
  BC  15/04  5300m
  C1  03/05  6000m
  C2  18/05
  C3  20/05  7200m
  Hpt 20/05  7200m by Kruk.

  Climb abandoned on 21 May due to exhaustion. Kruk left BC on 21 May.

  Oxygen: Taken, not used

  Kruk went to C3 on 20 May and back to C2, next day went down to BC.

  Gorzkowska did not attempt. She was suppose to come from Makalu and did not.


expid: LHOT19117
peakid: LHOT
year: 2019
route1: S Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Hong Sung-Taek
sponsor: Lhotse South Face International Expedition 2019
countries: China, Colombia, Kosovo, Spain
approach: Lukla->Namche->Chhukung->Lhotse BC
bcdate: 2019-04-10
smtdate: 2019-05-15
termdate: 2019-05-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7950m due to bad conditions (excess snow) and damaged tents
campsites: BC(10/04,5200m),C1(19/04,5900m),C2(27/04,6900m),C3(12-15/05,7800m),xxx(15/05,7950m)
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal
routememo:
  Intended Route: S Face, Kukuczka 1989 Route (except from ABC to C2 due to avalanche danger)

  Report from Hong and other members - 2 June 2019

  BC  10/04     5200m
  C1  19/04     5900m
  C2  27/04     6900m
  C3  12-15/05  7800m
  HPt 15/05  by Hong and 5 Sherpas (+150/200m above C3 in the cauldron),

  Fixed rope: 
    6300m rope from Korea, plus in KTM = 7900m
    Some parts double fixed rope from BC to C1, in parts very prone to objective 
      dangers (> 2500m)
    600m extra rope not used at BC, remnant used (7300m used)
    Damaging regularly = changing many times (2 to 3 times)!
    First traverse the worse: ladder.  

  Climb abandoned on May 29 due to excess of snow, bad conditions, tents broken. 

  Members (7) : 
    Hong Sung-Taek, left BC on May 30, HPt max
    Sung Nak-Jong, left BC on May 30, HPt to C3 on May 13,14,15
    Woo Jin-Kwon, left BC on May 30, HPt BC, no climbing
    Jorge Egocheaga, left BC on May 27, HPt to C3 on May 13,14,15
    Gabriel Jaime Morant Pelaez, left BC on May 27, HPt beween C1 and C2 on May 13
    He Jing, left BC on May 29, HPt at C3 (touching) on May 13
    Flutura (Uta) Ibrahimi, left BC May 27; HPt at C3 (touching) 7700m on May 13

  Base Camp supporting team:
    Kim Jae-Chul
    Miss Choi Su-Jin (English translator)

  Hired (10): 
    Phurba Ongel Sherpa (Sirdar), HP max
    Tashi Sherpa, HPt max. On May 24 the neck trouble after that, so just go down,
      without any rescue to BC.
    Dawa Sherpa, HPt C3 on May 12, (sleeping, down to BC)
    Nada Sherpa, HPt max
    Sanu Sherpa, no climbing, cancelled his venue on expedition.
    Lakpa Dendi Sherpa, HPt max 
    Lakpa « Dawa » Sherpa, HPt max
    Tenjen Sherpa, HPt C3 on May 12 (sleeping, down to BC)
    Angrita Sherpa, HPt C3 on May 12 (sleeping, down to BC). Frostbites at C3 => 
      rescue to KTM on May 18 (ask Wangchuck). 3 toes on the left leg feets,
      1st degree no problem.
    Nima Tashi Sherpa, HPt to C3 on May 12 (sleeping). Rock fall on the left leg 
      on May 13 on descent.

  Schedule:
  May 12-14: 3 nights at C3. 5 Sherpas to C4, 5 decsending on May 13. 
  May 15: reaching C4, deposit tent + oxygen + mask + any equipment supply.
          Climbed above for more climbing. Down to C3.
  May 16: snow, wind, blizzard, storm. Back to BC.
  May 19: tried again for summit from BC. Hong alone to C1. Sherpas to C2. 
  May 20: Hong to C2. 3 Sherpas to C3 (Lakpa Dendi, Lakpa Dawa, Tashi), 
          plus Nada Sherpa to C4 and down to C3.
  May 21: Jorge, Uta, Sung starting from BC to C1. Hong to C3. 4 Sherpas at C3.
  May 22: Jorge, Uta, Sung at C1 stay edbecause too much snowing! Hong at C2.
          4 Sherpas at C3.
  May 23: all come down to BC. Because weather not good.
  May 27: again tried from BC, 4 Sherpas direct to C3 (Ongyel touching C4; Nada,
          Lakpa Dendi, Lakpa Dawa).
  May 28: Hong Sung-Taek starting from BC to C3 to C1. Sherpas stayed at C3.
  May 29: HST C1 to  BC. Sherpas to BC.

  Too much snow. Broke C1 (4 tents all broken!), C2 and C3! Too many thinking, not possible. Decision to cancel.

  C1-C2 very long way. 1000m of climbing...Danger of couloir (objective risk, avalanche, rocks fal).

  Hope for a new try, hope for sponsors to come back. Autumn season is the best solution.

  Climate kept wrong by wind, with bad weather on south side.

  Left BC on May 30 to Chhukung.

  Sherpas above BC: 10

  Oxygen: taken, not used.


  Report from Flutura Ibrahimi - 30 May 2019

  BC  09/04  5250m
  C1  22/04  5900m (then to BC)
  C2  10/04  7300m
  C3         7800m (no sleeping there, no tents) 
  C4         8200m (planned only, never reached)
  C5         8400m (planned only, never reached)
  Hpt  11/05 7700m (below C3 by Ibrahimi)

  Fixed rope: had 5000m in reserve for the expedition, but fixed (3-4 parts old fixed ropes opened, anchors still good); sometimes using old fixed ropes; just Sherpas might know how many they fixed. Not all the way fixed.

  BC to C1: 80% fixed (some places without fixed ropes, had to climb)
  C1 to C2: all fixed.
  C2 to C3: all fixed.
  C3 to C4: not more than 200m; likely left of bottles...

  Lots of old fixed ropes remnants from previous Korean attempts. 6th time here for Hong Sung-Taek.

  Route: S Face of Lhotse, attack by French attempt 1990 TO French-Spanish attempt 1989/2007 Korean to LSHR TO junction with Czech/Polish route, TO Polish past attempts.

  Oxygen: taken, not used (planned from C5: 1st group Hong, Egocheaga, Sherpa and maybe Seong; 2nd group Ibrahimi and He Jing. However 19 bottles for 6 members with few Sherpas not enough from C4 24h C5 24h C6 down ?).

  Records: 6th attempt of Hong Sung-Taek 

  Accidents: frostbite for 1 Sherpa.

  Ibrahimi and Seong visited the c5625m (5732 with altimeter) on April 29. 

  Schedule: 
  April 16: pitched C1. From BC, down a 100m to reach a deposit 20 to 40 min from BC. Then 1 hr until 3 ladders to cross a crevasse (at that point, halfway from BC to C1; BC-C1 being a 4-6 hr trip).

  April 29: slept at C1.

  April 30: attempt to cross the couloir failed (intended to sleep at C2) so down to BC. Without tents not possible to sleep at C2 anyway (“problem of logistics”).

  May 09: BC-C1

  May 10: C1-C2. Started at 2 am, reaching C2 at c.10 am. On that day Morant went back down to BC (reached at c.8 pm); was fit but with no experience of high altitude. Egocheaga, Hong, Seong, Ibrahimi, He Jing slept there, all in 1 tent! At C2 was 1 “nice tent” for 3 persons (“leaders tent”), and 1 “summer tent” (old, broken) for 2 members. Ibrahimi refused to sleep in the second one, so that everyone had to sleep in the same tent!

  May 11: C2-C3. Hong, Seong, Egocheaga, Ibrahimi and He Jing. “Very beautiful section, exposed, aerial, feels like you're doing something. Just wanted to go up”. Ibrahimi and He Jing stopped at c.7700m, then went back down for sleeping to C2, joined by other members who did the same.

  May 12: all back down to BC.

  May 18: Hong slept at C1.
   
  May 19: Hong slept at C2. Ibrahimi, He Jing and Seong (who went later in the day) slept at C1. Rest of the team at BC. Snowed 15 cms, with biggest avalanche of the expedition on that day.

  May 20: remnant of the team joined at C1 (Egocheaga, Morant). Hong stayed at C2. In the morning, Ibrahimi couldn't open the tent door, due to snow accumulation.

  May 21: Hong down to C1, then all back to BC. Ibrahimi deciding on that day to cancel the expedition.

  Climb abandoned on May 21 (by Ibrahimi, due to management of expedition)

  Ibrahimi left BC on May 23; Egocheaga and Morant left on May 24.

  Route: First took the French 1990 attempt couloir right margin (couloir like a permanent river flow of little to big avalanches of rocks or snow or ice), then traversed it to reach the ridge (by a blue ice section) quite high to pitch a higher C2 than last October and more sheltered to the right than previous Korean attempt (an avalanche had blown it off). Ibrahimi thought a lower traverse as last time would be more convenient, but not so decided the Sherpas. C1-C2 section the most prone to objective dangers. No one injured there, despite lots of little rocks impacts. Most practical route/combination of the face according to her.

  Conditions: more snow and ice than last October according to Hong. Evolved a lot during the expedition from end of March. At then end, was very dry in the first part, then filled up with snow above (by wind mainly). Glacier afoot of the face also evolving quickly.

  C1 to C2: hard thick ice most of times. Objective risks in the couloir short traverse, “snow showers” or small rock falls (most of times, but sometimes bigger ones).

  C2 to C3: 70° average steep pillar in loose rock. Risks of rolling stones coming from other members above.

  Steepest parts = straight snow showers. Less steep parts = accumulation then avalanching. 

  Weather every night was snowing. 

  Management style: different than European, everyone climbing on his own (Egocheaga, Ibrahimi...), with no real leader for planning logistics for instance, despite lots of funds and means (300 snow bars, 5000m of ropes...). 

  3 groups according to her in the expedition:
  - “Leaders”: Hong + Egocheaga.
  - Sherpas: 10 of them (1 left because of frostbites, had been up to C2; 1 left 
    because of a leg problem, also went up to C2)
  - members: Ibrahimi, Jing He, Morant, Seong (respecting the leader)
  - BC manager was a nice girl, helping with everything (Choi Su-Jin)

  High point: 1 Sherpa said to Ibrahimi they aren't sure that any member in the past attempt ever reached C4. He had left 10 oxygen bottles at C4 deposit, which wasn't described later by members claiming to have reaching it.

  Ibrahimi believes no one reached C4 that time too, as mentioned to her by 1 different Sherpa who confirmed similarly for last attempt and the present one.

  1 Sherpa left because of frostbite: had tried from C3 to C4 (up to 200m below the latter?).

  Ibrahimi intends to climb Nuptse next time (climbed with TAGnepal so far) or Pumori.

  Remnant of the group today in Namche. Egocheaga left already, Morant on May 31st. 

  Sherpas:
    Phurba Ongel Sherpa (Sirdar)
    Tashi Sherpa
    Dawa Sherpa
    Nada Sherpa
    Sanu Sherpa
    Lakpa Dendi Sherpa
    Lakpa Sherpa
    Tenjen Sherpa
    Angrita Sherpa
    Nima Tashi Sherpa


expid: LHOT19119
peakid: LHOT
year: 2019
route1: S Col-W Face
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Mike Roberts
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2019
countries: Ireland, USA
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-13
smtdate: 2019-05-24
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2019-05-26
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-191-05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
primid: EVER19105
campsites:
  BC(13/04,5350m),C1(22/04,5900m),C2(24/04,6440m),C3(21/05,7100m),C4(22/05,7900m),EVER.Smt(23/05),C4(23/04,7900m),LHOT.Smt(24/05)

routememo:
  BC  13/04  5350m
  C1  22/04  5900m
  C2  24/04  6440m
  C3  21/05  7100m
  C4  22/05  7900m
  EVER.Smt 23/05 by Smith and Chheten Dorji at 7 am.
  LHOT.Smt 24/05 by Smith and Chheten Dorji at 6 am.

  After summiting Everest, Smith and Chheten Dorji left Everest C4 at 5:45 am. They reached Lhotse C4 at 6 am (very fast!), changed oxygen and left C4 Lhotse at 6:10 am. Only Elisabeth Revol on the route. They summited Lhotse at 11 am, spent about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at 5 pm. The Everest team was still at C2 and on 25/05 they all descended together.


expid: LHOT19122
peakid: LHOT
year: 2019
route1: W Face
nation: China
leaders: Chen Tao
sponsor: Kaitu Chinese Lhotse Expedition 2019
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-15
smtdate: 2019-05-22
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2019-05-25
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East
campsites: BC(15/04,5300m),C2(6400m),C3(29/04,7200m),C4(21/05,7900m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Kaitu Expedition (Satori Adventures pmt)
routememo:
  BC  15/04  5300m
  C1    /
  C2         6400m
  C3  29/04  7200m
  C4  21/05  7900m
  Smt 22/05  by Chen Tao and Chhiring Namgyal Sherpa at 7:30 am.

  Chen and Ru Zhi-Gang Everest team set off together at 1 am from BC on 18 May and a arived C2 at 9 am on 18 May and stayed one day.

  C2-C3 4:15 am-9:15 am on 20 May
  C3-C4 3:45 am-9:50 am on 21 May

  They started summit push from 10 pm, summmited at 7:30 am, stayed on top for 10 minutes. It was very windy, almost 60km/s. Chen arrived C2 at 4 pm on 22 May and waited for Everest team there for one more day until 23 May, then descended to BC in 4 hours at 1 pm on 24 May. He and Ru Zhi-Gang Everest team flew back to Ktm by heli on 25 May.

  Oxygen: Not used by Chen, used by Sherpa from C3-Smt-C3.

  Hired:
    Chhiring Namgyal Sherpa


expid: LSHR19101
peakid: LSHR
year: 2019
route1: S Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Jordi Tosas
sponsor: Spanish Lhotse Shar Expedition 2019
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Chhukung BC
bcdate: 2019-04-21
smtdate: 2019-05-14
termdate: 2019-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to dry conditions of the mountain
campsites: BC(21/04,4700m),Biv1(06/05),Biv2(07/05),Biv3(14/05),xxx(14/05,6900m)
agency: Amitayus Trekking
routememo:
  BC  21/04  4700m (at Chhukung Village)
  C1  06/05  at Imjatse La
  C2  07/05  at serac 
  C3  14/05  at cave
  Hpt 14/05  6900m at place on the right same level than huge serac barrier at 
             c7000m by both members.

  Climb abandoned on on 14 May due to dry conditions of the mountain.

  Acclimatization:

  Running on Island Peak.

  Ama Dablam:

  April 26. Duet started from BC. New route without name using a gully in a very logical obvious elegant dihedral (800m/WI4), reaching a notch at c6040m straight E below the 6182m bump lying ESE of Ama Dablam. Down by the same route on same day.

  Nuptse (S Face):

  British ridge with mushrooms, seracs, icefall. Tried it in alpine style. Very dry conditions.

  Reconnaissance on April 28.
  Apr 30: 1st climbing day. Chhukung La, then bivouac on the ridge. Technical in 
          such conditions.
  May 01: second bivouac at the same place. High point in the ridge.
  May 02: back down to BC. Hard conditions.

  Lhotse Shar:

  BC at Chhukung (lodge) 
  Really dry conditions season. More seracs. Since autumn 1996. Saw camps of the Koreans.
  Approched by LSHR glacier. Stayed on the ridge from Imjatse La.

  System use of 6mm rope, very quick method of abseil.
  2 days rappeling down.

  May 06: acclimatization more on the route. Slept at Imjatse La.
  May 07: climbed to just above to the seracs. Bivouac on top of serac inside a 
          cave (c.”69” p151). Prepared some abalakovs to prepare the descent, to 
          save some time. One night in the col.
  May 08: down to BC.

  Waited for best forecast announcements. Wind going down, but precipitation up!
  May 12: Chhukung to Col. Snowfall all day
  May 13: Col to serac bivy. Snowfall all day.
  May 14: Climbed up nicely in the morning … at 12h bad weather. Spindrifts...
          Long section of climbing: down, back up, this just below Pt 7143m.  
          c6900m maximum.
  Late in the afternoon, decided to come back to cave against the rock. Bivy there.
  May 15: Down to previous serac bivy. Rappeling.
  May 16: Down to col. Rappeling.
  May 17: Col down to Chhukung. 20 kms.

  Had tried it already until below the serac in 2010.

  Team left BC on on May 21.

  Route: Austrian route 1970 from Lhotse Shar glacier.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

  Other peaks: AMAD, NUPT, peak without name nearby Kongma La. 


expid: MAKA19101
peakid: MAKA
year: 2019
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Sherpa Rope-Fixing
sponsor: Sherpa Rope-Fixing Makalu 2019
smtdate: 2019-05-14
smttime: 0845
campsites: Smt(14/05)
routememo:
  Rope-fixing summiters:

  From Seven Summit Treks, Expedition Base and Pioneer Adventure:
    Sanu Sherpa (SST)
    Nima Sherpa (SST)
    Chhangba Sherpa (SST)
    Ang Dorje Sherpa (Exped Base)
    Lakpa Thinduk Sherpa (Pioneer Adv)


expid: MAKA19102
peakid: MAKA
year: 2019
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Taras Pozdnii
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks International Makalu Expedition 2019
approach: Trekking from Num & Heli to BC
bcdate: 2019-04-14
smtdate: 2019-05-15
smttime: 0650
termdate: 2019-05-26
campsites: BC(4800m),ABC(5700m),C1,C2,C3,Smt(15-16,24/04)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
countries:
  Australia, Belgium, China, India, Mexico, Norway, Pakistan, Peru, Romania, Switzerland, Taiwan, Turkey, USA

routememo:
  Seven Summit Treks Makalu expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-5 climbers each). Seven Summits provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high-altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Taras Pozdnii (Ukraine)

  Appr:  Trekked via Num
  Camps: ABC(21/04,5700m),C1(26/04,6420m),C2(27/04,6620m),C3(13/05,7480m),
         xxx(15/05,8230m)
  Left:  26/05
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned on 15/05 due to slowness, lack of time and oxygen.

  Started from C3 at 9:20 pm on 14/05. His Sherpa was going very slowly and was weak. It took them 7 hours to reach 7800m from C3. Pozdnii changed his bottle of oxygen at 7800m, his Sherpa going down from there. Pozdnii continued alone. He reached the French Couloir at 8230m. He calculated his oxygen would not be enough for summit and to go back, and decided to turn around. He turned around at about 9:42 am and was back to C3 at 1:30 pm.

  Pozdnii says the deceased Indian Dipankar Ghosh summited on 16/05. Going down he got lost in a storm and died at 7800m-7900m. He was alone and hasn’t been found yet.

  Oxygen: Used from C3 to HPt and down to C3.

  Hired:
    Keshap Gurung (7800m), Gorkha


  Brad Johnson (USA)
  William Mattison (USA)
  Sarah Strattan (USA)
  John Jacoby (Australia)
  April Mayhew (USA)

  Appr:  Trekked Tumlingar via Num
  Camps: BC(14/04,4700m),ABC(17/04,5700m),C1(24/04,6200m),C2(26/04,6700m),
         C3(13/05,7400m),Smt(15/05,8230m)
  Left:  19/05
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success by Johnson, Strattan, Jacoby

  Hidalgo died in C2 in the night of 7/05-8/05. He was found dead in his tent in the morning at 11:30 am. His body was brought down by Sherpas on 09/05 and flown to KTM on 10/05. Autopsy showed that he might have died of HACE.

  The team initially wanted to take another, easier route than other teams. They started to fix ropes for their route, but later ropes were buried in the snow and they ended up doing same route as other teams.

  The team started from C3 at 8:20 pm on 14/05. Johnson was the first to summit at 06:50 am. Jacoby, Strattan and both Sherpas summited between 7:30-7:45 am. Totally clear summit day, some cirrus clouds, little wind. All back to C3 at 1 pm. 

  Mattison turned around at 6900m on 13/05 because of diarrhea.

  Hired:
    Dendi Sherpa
    Tawa Sherpa


  Jonas Lohaus (Belgium)

  Appr:  Trekked via Num
  Camps: ABC(21/04,5700m),C1(01/05),C2(02/05),C3(14/04),Smt(16/05)
  Left:  19/05
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success by Lohaus and Phurba Sherpa.

  Lohaus summited at 10:20 am and Phurba Sherpa summited 30 minutes later. Started from C3 at 6:40 pm on 15/05. Good weather on summit day. High winds in the afternoon. Back to C3 at 4:30 pm.

  Lohaus together on summit with deceased Indians Dipankar Ghosh and Nayaran Singh (from Indian Army team).

  Oxygen: Used by Lohaus and Phurba from C3 to summit and down to C3.

  Hired:
    Phurba Sherpa


  Chang Yuan-Chih (China)
  Lu Chung-Han (China)

  Appr:  Trekked via Num
  Camps: ABC(21/04,5700m),C1(24/04),C2(28/04),C3(12/05),C4(13/05),Smt(15/05)
  Left:  18/05
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success by Chang and Lu

  Members started together from C4 at 9 pm. Chang summited at 8:30 am and got back to C4 at 2p m. Lu summited at 11 am and got back to C4 at 4 pm. It was a good day, fair weather, just a bit windy.

  Lu summited without supplemental oxygen.

  Their Sherpa abandoned summit attempt at 7700m on 14/05 because he didn’t feel well.

  Oxygen: Used by Chang from C4 to summit and down to C4; not used by Lu

  Hired:
    Dafuri Sherpa (7700m)


  Vibeke Sefland (Norway)
  Allie Pepper (Australia)

  Appr:  Heli from Namche
  Camps: BC(26/04,4800m),ABC(27/04,5700m),C1(01/05,6100m),C2(02/05,6400m),
         C3(14/05,7500m),xxx(15/05,7700m),Smt(24/05)
  Left:  18/05 (Pepper); 26/05 (Sefland)
  Hired: 0 (first attempt); 1 (2nd attempt by Sefland)
  Term:  Abandoned on 15/05 due to tiredness (1st attempt)
         Success on 24/05 by Sefland and Nima Dorje at 8 am.

  Acclimatisation rotation touched 7000m.

  On summit rotation HPt team left C3 at 7 pm. Weather was good and conditions favourable. When they reached 7700m at 9:30 pm, Pepper made the call to go down as she was tired and Sefland went down with her. They returned to C3, slept there and the following day the descended to BC.

  After the first summit attempt, Sefland decided to stay and attempt the mountain again with supplemental oxygen and Sherpa. Pepper left 18/05 and took a helicopter from Hillary BC on 20/05.

  Second summit attempt by Sefland:

  C2  21/05  6400m
  C3  22/05  7500m
  Smt 24/05  by Sefland and Nima Dorje Sherpa at 8 am
             (Josette Valloton summited at 6 am).

  On summit push, they started from C3 at 6:30 pm on 23/05. Weather was good. Straightforward climb. On the summit they spent about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to ABC, where they arrived at 11 pm. On 26/05 she left BC by helicopter to Tumlingtar. 

  Nima Tenji’s death:

  Just before they headed out of C3 for the summit push, Sefland was called to have a look at a sick Sherpa at C3. He was in the rescue team. Sefland saw that he had HAPE, he thought that he should have medication and gave him Nifidepine, but the other Sherpas refused for Nima Tenji to take any more medication. She told them that he had to go down immediately and they agreed that Nima Tenji would go down as soon as possible with support. Sefland was ensured that he would go down; however they did not go down. Nima Tenji survived the night and they left C3 to descend rather late in the day. On her way down, Valloton saw the Sherpas go down on the snowfield between the two rockbands; she thought that he was not very well. She asked him whether he needed help but he declined.

  When Sefland came down from the summit, she saw a bunch of the recovery team Sherpas at the top of the 1st rock band and this was probably where Nima Tenji had died. When Sefland caught up with them, she saw Nima Tenji was dead. He had no oxygen. His body was dragged down a few days later and flown to Tumlingtar.

  Dipankar Ghosh, the individual Indian who died on 16/05 after summiting, was apparently seen just above C4 due to a flashing head torch by Eva Martinez from Mexico. Sherpas were allegedly too tired to go back up to rescue. He was about 300m above C4 on the traverse.

  Oxygen:
    Not taken, not used by Pepper (and Sefland on first attempt)
    From C3 to top to C2 by Sefland, from C4 to top to C2 by Nima Dorje

  Hired:
    Nima Dorje Sherpa


  Raluca Uzum (Romania)

  Appr:  Trekked via Num
  Camps: ABC(22/04,5700m),C1(28/04),C2(12/05),xxx(14/05,7300m)
  Left:  18/05
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned on 14/05 due to coldness and bad weather.

  Uzum turned around at around 8:30 am on 14/05 because she was cold and was worried about her health.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used

  Hired:
    Lakpa Sherpa [Lakpa Wongdi or Lakpa Thindu?]


  Josette Valloton (Switzerland)

  Appr:  Trekked via Num
  Camps: BC(19/04,4800m),ABC(21/04,5700m),C2(29/04,6400m),C3(15/05,7500m),
         Smt(24/05)
  Left:  26/05 by heli
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success by Valloton and Chhangba at 5:30 am.

  On summit push, Valloton and Chhangb started from C3 at 6:30 pm on 23/05. Weather was clear, but very windy to start with. Straightforward climb. On the summit, they spent about 2 minutes on the summit and descended to ABC, where they arrived at 4 pm.

  Valloton had intended to summit without oxygen and had actually reached C4 (7800m) on 15/05 without O2. When she descended back to BC she met Sefland, who had changed her plans to summit without oxygen, so Valloton joined her in her idea. 

  Oxygen: Used C3 to top to C3 by Valloton and Chhangba.

  Hired:
    Chhangba Sherpa (also summited on 14/05 with the rope fixing team)


  Richard Hidalgo (Peru)

  Camps: BC(15/04),C2(07/05),xxx
  Term:  Abandoned on 07/05 due to Hidalgo's death.

  Nepali Times, 09/05/2019

  In the morning of May 8, 2019, according to the information received from the basecamp, Richard had hiked to Camp 2 on May 7, 2019, along with Sherpas who were ascending to the peak to fix the ropes. At approximately 9 pm, Richard and the Sherpas had left for their personal tents after the meal. Then after the Sherpas returned to Camp 2 after fixing a rope on the mountain. On not seeing Mr. Hidalgo, they had gone to his tent only to find him no longer alive.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used	

  Return KTM: After a bit of back and forth with the family, Richard's body was taken to the Teaching Hospital on 10/05 for post-mortem.


expid: MAKA19103
peakid: MAKA
year: 2019
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Manoj Joshi
sponsor: Indian Army Mountaineering Expedition to Makalu 2019
approach: Trekked from Num
bcdate: 2019-04-15
smtdate: 2019-05-16
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2019-05-18
campsites: ABC(15/04,5600m),C2(24/04,6600m),C3(14/05,7400m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  15/04  5600m  
  C1    --   never slept at C1
  C2  24/04  6600m 
  C3  14/05  7400m 
  Smt 16/05  by 16 members (all except Manoj Joshi and Arun Kumar).

  Team started from C3 at 5:30 pm on 15/05. First summit at 6:30 am. Everyone on the summit within 3 hours. Summit is narrow so it took long time. Weather was fair on summit day. Coming back weather deteriorated. Two members got frostbitten on descent. Back to C3 between 3 pm-11:30 pm. Next day (17/05) everyone to BC.

  Narayan Singh died at 8200m on 16/05 descending from the summit because of altitude issues. Sherpas will try to bring his body down soon.
   
  Three members flown from BC to CIWEC hospital in KTM on 18/05, two members flown on 19/05. Rest of team to lower BC on 19/05. They will trek out next week.

  Manoj Joshi (leader) had pneumonia. He got back to KTM by heli from lower BC (4800m) on 07/05. He reached his HPt at C2 on 24/04.

  Balwant Singh and Harjas Singh Gill at CIWEC now frostbitten. Balwant frostbite (blisters) on fingers and on one toe; Harjas one finger frostbitten and foot (all toes). Sunil Rai frostbite on 5 fingers.

  Team left BC on 18/05.

  Sherpas above BC: 1 Sherpa per member

  Oxygen: Used by everyone from 7400m to summit to 7400m.

accidents:
  Narayan Singh died on descent on 16/05 at an altitude of approximately 8200m. Seveal members with frostbite.


expid: MAKA19104
peakid: MAKA
year: 2019
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Lakpa Sherpa, Chris Warner
sponsor: Expedition Base Makalu Expedition 2019
countries: Canada, USA
approach: Trekked from Num
bcdate: 2019-04-19
smtdate: 2019-05-15
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2019-05-25
agency: Expedition Base (Pioneer Adventure pmt)
campsites:
  BC(19/04,4800m),ABC(21/04,5700m),C1(25/04,6100m),C2(28/04,6400m),C3(12/05,7500m),C4(13/05.7700m),Smt(15/05)

routememo:
  BC  19/04  4800m
  ABC 21/04  5700m
  C1  25/04  6100m
  C2  28/05  6400m
  C3  12/05  7500m
  C4  13/05  7700m
  Smt 15/05  by Lakpa Sherpa, MetCalfe, Warner, Chhiring Sherpa at 7:30 am.

  15/05 summit team left C4 at 10 pm on 14/05. The ropes were fixed by 3 Sherpas from SST, 1 from Pioneer and Ang Dorje on 14/05. Weather was perfect. Conditions perfect. Straightforward climb. They spent about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to C3, where they arrived at 4 pm. On 16/05, back to ABC.

  Rope-fixing Sherpas left C4 at 9 pm on 13/05 and summited on 7 am. After the summit they returned to C4, where Ang Dorje arrived at 11 am.

  Seagram and Chhiring Sherpa reached 6800m. She had been suffering from a cold all the way through the expedition and was too weak to continue.

  Warner left ABC on 18/05 by helicopter. MetCalfe left ABC on 20/05 by helicopter. Seagram, Lakpa Sherpa and Chhiring left ABC on 25/05 by helicopter.

  Oxygen: Used from 7000m to top to C3 by Warner, MetCalfe and Sherpas.


expid: MAKA19105
peakid: MAKA
year: 2019
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Priyanka Mohite
sponsor: Pioneer Adventure Makalu Expedition 2019
countries: India, S Korea, Taiwan, USA
approach: Yangla Kharka by Heli
bcdate: 2019-04-23
smtdate: 2019-05-15
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2019-05-16
campsites: BC(23/04,4800m),ABC(25/04,5700m),C1(29/04,6100m),C2(30/04,6400m),C3(13/05,7500m),Smt(15/05)
agency: Pioneer Adventure
routememo:
  BC  23/04  4800m
  ABC 25/04  5700m
  C1  29/04  6100m
  C2  30/04  6400m
  C3  13/05  7500m
  Smt 15/05  by Mohite and Pemba Sherpa, Chung Ei-Chul and Temba, Chiao-Yu Chan and 
             Lhakpa Lama Sherpa (owns Pioneer) at 9:30 am, and Gorzkowska (no O2)
             a little later with Dawa.

  Summit team left C3 at 7:30 pm on 14/05. Weather was good and conditions were good. Straightforward climb. They spent about 5 minutes on the summit and descended to various camps. Mohite and Chung Ei-Chul and Temba descended to BC, where they arrived at 8:30 pm. Chiao-Yu Chan stayed at C3 and Magdalena at C4.

  Li-Lan Cheng reached 7000m on 13/05. The weather was not good on that day and he decided to turn back.

  Mohite and Li-Lan Cheng left BC on 16/05 by helicopter.

  Oxygen: 
    Used from C3 to top to C2 by all members and Sherpas (and Mohite to BC on 
      descent)

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Sherpa Lama, Makalu-4, Sankhuwasabha, 19/06/1989
      (summited Everest with Mirza Ali Baig on 22/05/2019)

  Gorzkowska was going to Lhotse [did not go]
  Chiao-Yu Chan is going to Everest afterwards [did go]


expid: MAKA19107
peakid: MAKA
year: 2019
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Dawa Yangzum Sherpa
sponsor: Nepalese Makalu Expeditin 2019
approach: Heli to ABC from Lukla
bcdate: 2019-05-27
smtdate: 2019-05-29
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2019-05-30
campsites: ABC(27/05,5700m),C2(28/05,6400m),C3(28/05,7500m),Smt(29/05)
agency: Pioneer Adventure
routememo:
  ABC 27/05  5700m
  C1   --
  C2  28/04  6400m
  C2  28/05  7500m
  Smt 29/05  by all three at 6:30 am.

  28/05 started at 8:30 am straight for C3. Weather was fine, clear, a little windy in the evening when they arrived at C3 at 6-7 pm. Rested until 11 pm. Continued after 11 pm and arrived at summit at 6:30 am on 29/05 with Phurba. Spent over 30 mins at the summit, waiting for Mingma to arrive half hour or so later. Back to lower BC on: 29/05 at 10:30 pm. Left lower BC on 30/05 by heli to Ktmdu.	
  						
  Fixed rope:	C3 to C4, all the snow had covered the [old] ropes. Used their own main rope alpine style.

  Oxygen: Taken and used (Carried 2 bottles each).


expid: MAKA19108
peakid: MAKA
year: 2019
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Greece
leaders: Antonios Sykaris
sponsor: Antonios Sykaris Makalu-Lhotse Expedition 2019
approach: Heli to Yangla Kharka (1st time); heli to ABC from Namche (2nd time)
bcdate: 2019-05-16
smtdate: 2019-05-27
termdate: 2019-05-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to climbing on the wrong line
agency: Imagine Nepal (Pioneer Adventure pmt)
campsites:
  BC(16/04,4800m),ABC(19/04,5700m),C1(20/04,6250m),C2(21/04,6620m),xxx(24/04/6700m); ABC(24/05,5700m),C2(25/05,6620m),C3(27/05,7480m),xxx(27/05,7800m)

routememo:
  Makalu (1st Attempt)
  BC  16/04  4800m
  ABC 19/04  5700m
  C1  20/04  6250m
  C2  21/04  6620m
  HPt 24/04  6700m by Sykaris and Pasang Sherpa.

  Sykaris had a bad cough and as he wanted to see a doctor he took a helicopter to Pangboche on 02/05. He saw a doctor in Pangboche who told him to recover, so he stayed in Pangboche until 08/05 and then he flew to Lhotse/Everest BC as Mingma of Imagine Nepal told him to come and climb Lhotse as his team was going up. He should then go back to Makalu afterwards.  

  Lhotse
  BC  08/05  5350m
  C1   --
  C2  10/05  6400m
  C3  11/05  7100m
  C4  13/05  7700m
  Smt 14/05  by Sykaris at 9:30 am [9:45 am].

  Sykaris left C4 at midnight together with Imagine’s group. The couloir had been fixed by Mingma’s Sherpas on 14/05. Straightforward climb. He stayed about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where he arrived at 4 pm. On 15/05 C2 and on 16/05 BC.

  Oxygen taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 by Sykaris.

  Left BC to go back to Makalu: 17/05 helicopter to Namche. When he arrived in Namche, he went to see a doctor because of his cough and the doctor told him that he had pulmonary edema and should go home. But he did not and stayed in Namche for 6 nights. On 24/05 helicopter from Namche directly to Makalu ABC.

  Makalu (2nd Attempt)
  ABC 24/05  5700m
  C1    --
  C2  25/05  6620m
  C3  27/05  7480m
  HPt 27/05  7800m by Sykaris, Pasang and one more Sherpa at 10:30 pm.

  HPt team left C3 6:30 pm. They ascended to C4, past C4 and did not find the fixed rope and climbed off the route. They reached 7800m, Syrkaris noticed that they were going the wrong way as they were not traversing across the slope, but they were going straight up. Pasang Sherpa said that the rope was buried underneath the ice and that they could not go up. However, as it turned out there was no fixed rope there as they were in the wrong place. When they noticed they turned back to C3, where they arrived at 12:30 am on 28/05. The next morning they descended to ABC, which took them about 8 hours.

  Oxygen: Used from C3 to high point to just before C2 by Sykaris and Sherpa (to ABC).


expid: NUPT19101
peakid: NUPT
year: 2019
route1: NE Spur
nation: UK
leaders: Tim Mosdale
sponsor: Mosedale Triple Crown 2019
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-14
smtdate: 2019-05-21
termdate: 2019-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 7710m due to deep snow and route difficulty
campsites: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(19/04,6000m),C2(22/04,6400m),C3(11/05,6850m),xxx(21/05,7710m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  14/04  5350m
  C1  19/04  6000m
  C2  22/04  6400m
  C3  11/05  6850m
  HPt 21/05  7675m by Mosedale
      21/05  7710m by Dorje Gyalzen.

  Team set off from C3 at 4 am. They had already fixed rope to 7500m from 12/05 to 14/05. Like before, the footprints were gone and the ropes were buried or partially buried due to spin drift and/or new snow. When they reached the high point at 5:30 pm they decided that they would have little chance to reach the summit and get down safely again, so they abandoned the expedition and descended to C3, where they arrived at 6:45 pm. On 22/05 they went to C2.

  Mosedale was intending to do the ‘Triple Crown’ and go to Nuptse, Everest and Lhotse. However, as he and Dorje had spent all their energy on Nuptse and trying to get up, they decided to abandon the rest of the plan.

  Climb abandoned on 21/05 due to too much snow, route too hard.

  Mosedale left BC on 23/05 by heli to Lukla.

  Fixed rope:	1200m

  Oxygen: Taken and used from [?]

  Sherpa:
    Dorjee Gyalzen, Pangboche, 16/07/1992


expid: PUMO19101
peakid: PUMO
year: 2019
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Mark Woodward, Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Pumori Expedition 2019
countries: Australia, Austria, UK
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-04
smtdate: 2019-05-01
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2019-05-27
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-191-15)
campsites: BC(04/04,5200m),C1(5800m),C2(13/04,6400m),C3(02/05,6800m),Smt(01-03/05)
agency: Mountain Experience
primid: EVER19115
routememo:
  BC  04/04  5200m
  C1    -    5800m  (did not sleep)
  C2  13/04  6400m
  C3  02/05  6800m
  Smt 01/01  by Phura Namgya, Nima Tenzing
  Smt 02/05  by Woodward, Keck, Hewitt, Tashi Tenjing at 12:48, Hocking at 13:46.

  Climb abandoned by:
    Jacobus Strydom at C2 on 2 May due to cold feet and hands
    Dan Clements at C2 on 2 May due to not motivated
    Terry Byrne at C2 on 2 May due to trouble with artificial leg

  From Russell Brice's blog:

  I daresay the main news is that yesterday we completed our acclimatization on Pumori. When I say completed this process, I mean that the Sherpas carried the last loads off the mountain from C2 yesterday. The last of the members were back at BC the day before, but I do not consider and expedition complete until everyone is back safe to BC. 

  As I have already mentioned it was a bit of an experiment to climb Pumori instead of Lobuche for acclimatization. We established C1, which is where many Everest climbers do day walks during the season, this we never stayed in and only used the tent to store equipment in, just to save carrying boots and crampons and the like up and down from BC. 

  The route went into a small gully before going up an easy snow ramp, and then followed a series rock buttresses and short scree slopes until reaching a straight forward snow slope to the main arete leading up to C2. This soon lead into a steep ice tower that we needed to traverse around on steep hard ice. This lead to a short 7m vertical ice wall to drop into the bottom of a large crevasse. C2 was located on the bottom of this crevasse on a small snow ledge.

  It took us 3 days to make the route from C1 to C2 as well as carry enough rope to get to C3. Of course, there was another vertical ice wall to climb out of the crevasse onto an easy snow slope that lead to yet another 4m vertical ice wall that gave us access to an easy snow covered ledge. We followed this ledge before heading up another steep ice section that gave us access to another ledge that took us to some large easy slopes, but knee deep snow in the center of the face. But this proved to be of no avail as all of these easy slopes were cut off from the upper slopes by large crevasses. So we had to return from this sortie, recovering our ropes, and return to the original snow ledge. This took us a full day of work with very little progress.

  The following day we again went to our high point and traversed even further right before climbing a short 3m overhanging ice section that lead to a steep snow slope that got us high on the mountain. Another short snow ledge and another short steep snow slope brought us to the skyline ridge, which is the border between Nepal and Tibet. A short drop of about 25m took us to a prominent col and a flat area where we could make C3. On 01 May at 13.00 Phura Namgya and Nima Tenzing from Himex managed to fix rope to the summit. Dawa Steven and Nanda Dorje from Asian Trekking also reached the summit at the same time. (I have known Dawa for many years and when he asked if the two of them could use our route, I agreed and was able to get the required permissions for these two Sherpas to climb). On 02 May at 12.48 Mark Woodward, Stephan Keck, Martin Hewitt and Tenjing Tashi reached the summit, and at 13.46 Ian Hocking reached the summit. Everyone returned to BC the following day, but we had to leave some equipment at C2, so it was only yesterday that we were able to return and collect this.


expid: PUMO19102
peakid: PUMO
year: 2019
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Dawa Steven Sherpa
sponsor: Asian Trekking Pumori Expedition 2019
approach: Lukla->Namche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-14
smtdate: 2019-05-01
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2019-05-25
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-191-02)
campsites: BC(30/03,5350m),C2(30/04,6600m),Smt(01/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
primid: EVER19102
routememo:
  EBC 14/04  5350m
  C1    -
  C2  30/04  6600m (at the shoulder, some call it C2, Brice called it C3)	
  Smt 01/05  by Dawa Steven Sherpa and Nanda Dorje Sherpa.

  4 of them left from Everest BC together for Summit on 01/05 at 5:30 am (Dawa Steven + Nanda Dorje + 2 from Himex, Phura Namgya and Nima Tenzing, Khumjung). Fixed ropes together from C2 to the summit. Brice put Dawa Steven on his permit and they in return helped with the rope fixing.

  Weather was perfect, no wind. Marginal snow in the evening. On summit for about half an hour.

  Descent: Straight down to Everest BC on 01/05 reaching at about 7 pm.

  Copied from Brice’s account: On 01 May at 13.00 Phura Namgya and Nima Tenzing from Himex managed to fix ropes to the summit. Dawa Steven and Nanda Dorje from Asian Trekking also reached the summit at the same time. (I have known Dawa for many years and when he asked if the two of them could use our route, I agreed and was able to get the required permissions for these two Sherpas to climb).

  Back to BC on: 01/05

  Sherpa:
    Nanda Dorje, Khumjung

  Fixed rope:	Rope was fixed to shoulder before they got there. Tents were already in position. Carried some sleeping bags and rope and fixing materials and own food and gas. They (Dawa, etc) fixed the ropes from the shoulder up.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


expid: PUTH19101
peakid: PUTH
year: 2019
route1: NE Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Hansjoerg Pfaundler
sponsor: Furtenbach Adventures Putha Hiunchuli Expedition 2019
countries: Germany, Switzerland
approach: Flight to Juphal->Dunai->Kakot->BC
bcdate: 2019-05-09
smtdate: 2019-05-16
termdate: 2019-05-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to lots of snow, stormy winds
campsites: BC(09/05,4900m),ABC(13/05,5470m),C1(15/05,6100m),xxx(16/05,6350m)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  The two Swiss members (Martin Roffler and Urban Troxler) climbed independently ahead of the Furtenbach team (arrived at BC on 3 May and went to 600om on 10 May).


expid: RATC19101
peakid: RATC
year: 2019
route1: W Ridge
nation: Romania
leaders: Adrian Laza
sponsor: Romanian Ratna Chuli Expedition 2019
approach: Upper Mustang->Muktinath->Thorang La->Yak Kharka->Nu->Meta->Phu
bcdate: 2019-04-11
smtdate: 2019-04-19
termdate: 2019-05-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to lack of ropes
campsites: BC(11/04,5100m),HC(14/04,6100m),xxx(19/04,6600m)
agency: Pioneer Adventure (Unique Adventure pmt)
primid: EVER19129
routememo:
  BC  11/04  5100m
  HC  14/04  6100m
  HPt 19/04  6600m by Laza.

  Laza put up a fixed line using 800m out of 1000m that he took with him. The route is full of cornices and crevasses and difficult to tackle alone. Laza said that the peak Ratna Chuli (7100m) in the map shows in China.

  Climb abandoned on 19 April due to lack of ropes; it was not possible to continue alone for the summit.

  Laza left BC on 3 May.
  	
  Fixed rope: 800m out of 1000m on the peak west of main peak.

  Other peaks: Laza will attempt Everest.


expid: SANK19101
peakid: SANK
year: 2019
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Wolfgang Drexler
sponsor: Sano Kailash I Austrian/Nepalese First Ascent Expedition 2019
approach: Jeep to Charang->Dhi->(Damodarkunda Trek)
bcdate: 2019-04-05
smtdate: 2019-04-28
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2019-04-29
campsites: BC(25/04,5400m),Smt(28/04)
agency: Langtang Ri Trekking
routememo:
  Trek from Charang  16/04
  Damodakunder       22/04
  Base Camp          25/04  5400m at Itiya Khola just below glacier
  Summit             28/04  by Drexler, Lawang Tamang at 8:30 am.

  Drexler and Lawang started from BC on 3 am. They crossed a moraine at the beginning to the foot of the NE Ridge. The lower part is a rock wall that required some scrambling for one hour until they reached some loose scree that turned into a snow slope of about 35 degrees. At about 6000m they put on their crampons. Perfect conditions. They did not use a rope for the entire climb. Technically surprisingly easy. Weather perfect.

  On the summit, the view was amazing. They descended to BC, where they arrived at 11:20 am.

  Bartmann reached 5700m on 26/04 on the recce tour. She did not feel well enough to climb the mountain and decided not to attempt.

  Trek from Damodakunder via Saribung Pass to Phu. From Phu they walked towards west to the remote village and crossed the Phu Pass (5050m) that drops into Nar. The way is sign-posted. Then over Nar Pass (5400m) – amazing view – to Nar.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

  Hired:
    Lawang Lama Tamang, Rasuwa, 28/03/1978


expid: AMAD19303
peakid: AMAD
year: 2019
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Johann Goger
sponsor: Burgenlaendische Ama Dablam Expedition 2019
approach: Lukla->Namche->Renjo La->Cho La->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2019-11-15
smtdate: 2019-11-22
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2019-11-24
campsites: BC(15/11,4500m),C1(17/11,5700m),C2(21/11,5900m),Smt(22/11)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  Team set out from C2 at 16:00 on 21 Nov, summited at 14:00 on 22 Nov, stayed 30 minutes, then descended to C2.


expid: AMAD19304
peakid: AMAD
year: 2019
route1: N Ridge
route2: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Shinji Tamura
sponsor: Active Mountain Ama Dablam North Ridge Expedition 2019
countries: Netherlands, USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pheriche (2 nights)
bcdate: 2019-10-14
smtdate: 2019-11-04
termdate: 2019-11-05
campsites:
  BC(14/10,4700m),Biv1(28/10,5900m),xxx(29/10,6300m)
  BC,C1,C2,Smt(04/11)

agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  BC   14/10  4700m just above Dingboche
  Biv1 28/10 	5900m on the ridge with a small terrace
  HPt  29/10  6300m 
  Smt  04/11  by Frey, Paul and 2 Sherpas.

  Tamura tripped and fell, chipped his tooth, got dizzy and sent his clients up to C1 on 29 Oct; Sherpas had already gone ahead of them on 28 Oct. 29th Oct all 4 of the Sherpas got to 6300m; clients on 30 Oct got to 6100m.

  Made many rotations to the col. The whole team experienced too much snow. With this factor and strong winds the Sherpas turned back at 5800m when they first attempted to go to C1 on 25th Oct. Clients turned back by 5600m.

  Climb abandoned on 30 Oct due to bad snow conditions. Sugary snow up to thighs, not possible to even make anchors (kept coming out). Tried to dig deeper, impossible.

  One of Tamura’s clients had a flight back home on 4 Nov (Bergsma already summitted AMAD before on normal route), so he left BC on 1 Nov for Namche. Next day flew out by heli to KTM.

  On 1 Nov Gregory Paul and Martin Frey plus 2 Sherpas Nawang Tenzing Sherpa and Urken Sherpa left BC at around noon and decided to go to the Ama Dablam normal SW route. It was their first time.

  Tamura also left BC on 1 Nov. Stayed a little later to pack with the remaining gear with Sherpas and went down to Dingboche by evening. Tamura then moved next day to Phortse. Bad radio reception so moved to Khumjung for better radio reception to keep communications with clients.

  Oxygen: taken, not used (for medic reasons only).

  Sherpas: 
    Phurba Tashi (Khumjung)
    Nima Sona (Phortse)
    Nawang Sherpa (Phortse)
    Urken Sherpa (Phortse)


expid: AMAD19305
peakid: AMAD
year: 2019
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Charley Mace
sponsor: Mountain Experience Ama Dablam Expedition 2019
bcdate: 2019-11-06
smtdate: 2019-11-12
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2019-11-15
campsites: BC(06/11,4700m),C1(09/11,5700m),C2(10/11,6000m),C2.7(11/11,6300m),Smt(12,14/11)
achievment: 1st blind climber (Erik Weihenmayer)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  Summit team left C2.7 at 3 am on 12 Nov, summited at 10 am, stayed 30 minutes, then descended to C2 from 4 to 7 pm.

  O'Neill made a second speed ascent on 14 Nov:

    2:26 pm 13 Nov departure from BC
    2:23 am 14 Nov summit
    8:43 am 14 Nov return to BC


expid: AMAD19306
peakid: AMAD
year: 2019
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Andy Polloczek
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Ama Dablam Expedition 2019
countries: Germany
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Chhukung Ri->BC
bcdate: 2019-10-23
smtdate: 2019-11-06
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2019-11-09
campsites: BC(23/10,4600m),C1(30/10,5700m),C2(06/11,6200m),Smt(06-07/11))
agency: Beyul Adventure
routememo:
  BC  23/10  usual BC
  C1  30/10
  C2  05/11  6200m (C2.5 site)
  Smt 06/11  by Goodson (father/daughter) with Polloczek + 2 Sherpas at 8:30-9 am.
      07/11  by rest of team (except Gallagher) + 4 Sherpas.

  Polloczek and the Goodsons (father/daughter) set off at 3 am on the 6 Nov for the summit from C2. Good conditions, lots of snow, route in good shape. Summited at 8:30-9 am, spent 30 minutes on summit, descended to C1. Back to BC on 7 Nov.

  The rest of the team summitted exactly the same way and maybe an hour earlier than the team before on 7 Nov with Phunuru (4 clients, 4 Sherpas). Back to BC on 8 Nov.

  Daniel Gallagher high point at C1 on 30 Oct. Did not go past C1. Left for BC and walked to Namche on the 31 Oct. Not able to climb further.

  Oxygen: None

  Polloczek's team left BC on 9 Nov by heli to Lukla to Ktm.

  Phunuru’s team on 10 Nov walked to Namche, heli to Ktm on 11 Nov.


expid: AMAD19308
peakid: AMAD
year: 2019
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Jens Nonnewitz
sponsor: German Ama Dablam Expedition 2019
bcdate: 2019-11-04
smtdate: 2019-11-11
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2019-11-14
campsites: BC(04/11),C1(06/11),C2(10/11),Smt(11/11)
agency: Sherpath Treks (Himalaya Vision pmt)
routememo:
  From Pemba's Facebook page:

  Late post though me and my client Jens Nonnewitz from Germany summited Mt Amadablam, 6812m on 11.11.019 around 8 am. Wind was high like 30 to 35 kmph that day with temperature -30 in the morning, we managed it and we were the first one to reach summit and three more followed us to the summit that day.

  Pic 1-Me and my client on the summit
  Pic 2-sunset from Camp 1, 5800m with prayerflags
  Pic 3-Enroute from camp 2.7 and above. Climbers lowering down from camp 3
  Pic 4-Red Beaked Chough flying high into thin air; shot from camp 2 high above clouds


  From Jens Nonnewitz (email) - 23 July 2020

  Arrival BC - 04.11.2019
   
  C1  - 06.11.2019 acclimatization
      - 09.11.2019 
   
  C2  - 10.11.2019
   
  Smt - 11.11.2019 at 8 am with Pemba
        Left C2 at 3 am
        No ropes fixed
        20 mins on summit and descened to C2; following day to BC
   
  Left BC - 14.11.2019


expid: AMAD19310
peakid: AMAD
year: 2019
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Gabriel Mazur
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Ama Dablam Expedition 2019
countries: Australia, Austria, New Zealand, Romania, Sweden, UK
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2019-10-21
smtdate: 2019-10-30
smttime: 0820
termdate: 2019-11-05
campsites: BC(21/10,4600m),ABC(23/10,5400m),C1(25/10,5800m),C2(29/10,6100m),Smt(30/10,03/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  First team of Bachmair and Pasang Rinji summited on 30 Oct at 7 am, ten descended to C2.

  Second team of Kerr-Rolleson, Dunn, Pogacean, Dawa Geljen and Sanduk Dorje summited on 3 Nov at 9 am, then descended to C2.

accidents:
  Bachmair injured on descent when snowstake popped out on rappel. Small head bash, heli-evacuated, checked, all good.


expid: AMAD19311
peakid: AMAD
year: 2019
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Conan Bliss
sponsor: Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam Expedition 2019
countries: Canada
smtdate: 2019-10-10
smttime: 1800
termdate: 2019-11-06
campsites: BC(25/10,4600m,C1(10/29),C2(03/11),Smt(10/10,04/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  The primary team led by Conan Bliss arrived at base camp on 25 Oct and summited on 4 Nov.

  Earlier, Kristin Bennett and Ang Phurba Sherpa summited behind the rope-fixing team on 10 Oct.


  Conan Bliss - 15 July 2020

  We reached C1 3 days after arriving at BC, and then the next day just climbed to C2 but didn't sleep there, just an acclimatization day. We slept in C2 only on the summit push, which was the day/night before summitting, Nov 2/3.

  Team left C2 on 3 Nov at 11:30 pm, summited on 4 Nov at 7:40, stayed 30 minutes, then descended to BC arriving at 9 pm. Great snow conditions, great weather.

  We had two Ama Dablam expeditions this year; both were successful. Kristin Bennett was on the first; I guided the second. (This is why I only filled out for my expedition.) Kristin did summit on October 10th with Guide/Sherpa Aang Phurba Sherpa. In addition, he fixed the lines to the summit prior to their summit push.  I don't have any of the other additional information on their climb, other than Phurba informed me they had a long summit day.


expid: AMAD19314
peakid: AMAD
year: 2019
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Jon Gupta
sponsor: Mountain Expeditions Ama Dablam Expedition 2019
countries: Ireland
bcdate: 2019-11-20
smtdate: 2019-11-24
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2019-11-27
campsites: BC(18/11,4600m),C1(21/11,5850m),C2(22/11,6100m),Smt(24-25/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Notes from FB pages [and Ministry files]:

    24 Nov - Martin [Brannelly], Jon [Gupta] and Dorje summited just before 10.

    25 Nov - Jon Gupta, Kate [Hallam] and Pinju have summited.

    27 Nov - Jon Gupta and his team (Kate, Martin, Miles, Mike and Steph) left BC.


expid: AMAD19315
peakid: AMAD
year: 2019
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Tim Mosedale
sponsor: Tim Mosedale's Ama Dablam Expedition 2019
countries: Australia, Canada, USA
bcdate: 2019-11-16
smtdate: 2019-11-27
smttime: 1100
campsites: BC(16/11,4600m),ABC(20/11,5400m),C1(21/10,5850m),C2(6100m),Smt(27,30/10,04,07/12)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Notes from FB pages:

    27 Nov - Alex [Miller], Chheten, Kreg [Martinez] and Padawa summited at 
             just after 09:20 am

    30 Nov - Arash [Bateni], Jamie [Wood], Jon [Pedder] and Oli {Brown] summited 
             with Dorje, Padawa and Pemba [Dorje?]

           - Steve [Seale] turned around at C3 with Pinju, on way back to BC with 
             Amy [McMillan], Chris [Bradley] and Peter [Murphy]

           - Guy [Schofield], Quentin [Hamilton] and Vijay [Korotane] on second
             rotation

           - Paddy [Mitton] descended from C2 all the way back to BC on 29 Nov


expid: AMAD19317
peakid: AMAD
year: 2019
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Slovakia
leaders: Vladimar Ceniga
sponsor: Slovakian Ama Dablam Expedition 2019
approach: Lukla_>Gokyo->Cho La->BC
bcdate: 2019-10-14
smtdate: 2019-10-28
termdate: 2019-10-31
termnote: Abandoned at 6750m due to snowblindness of Vladimir Ceniga
campsites: BC(14/10,4600m),C1(18/10,5700m),xxx(28/10,6750m)
agency: Utmost Adventure (Himalayan Guides pmt)
routememo:
  BC  14/10  4600m
  C1  18/10  5700m
  HPt 28/10  6750m by all members.

  Climb abandoned on 28/10 due to snow-blindness of Vladimir Ceniga.
   
  They tried to summit in one push from C1. Never slept any higher than C1. They started form C1 at between 1 and 2 am and got to their highpoint at approximately 8 am. Ceniga got snow-blinded just 50m below the summit and couldn’t climb on. Everyone turned around at highpoint. All back to C1, next day to BC. Left BC on 31/10.

  Oxygen: not taken, not used.


expid: AMAD19318
peakid: AMAD
year: 2019
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Chatur Tamang
sponsor: Cha-Tours Ama Dablam Expedition 2019
countries: Azerbaijan, Russia, Ukraine
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Lobuje East
bcdate: 2019-10-15
smtdate: 2019-10-27
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2019-10-29
campsites: BC(15/10),C1(25/10),C2(26/10),Smt(27/10)
agency: Chatours Treks (Himalayan Guides pmt)
routememo:
  BC  15/10
  C1  25/10  1st night
  C2  26/10  1st night
  Smt 27/10

  Summiteers:
    Andrey Podolyan, 06:30 am
    Pasang Tshering Sherpa, 09:30 am
    Andrey Zaytsev, 10:30 am
    Grygoriy Gryshko, 10:30 am
    Chatur Kumar Tamang, 10:30 am
    Israfil Arshuli, 10:30 am
    Tymofii Dobychyn, 10:30 am

  Team descended from C2, C1 and base camp and left BC 29 Oct.

  Team had 2 climbing Sherpas:
    Chatur Kumar Tamang 
    Pasang Tshering Sherpa 
  with 5 members.


expid: AMAD19322
peakid: AMAD
year: 2019
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Valentyn Sypavin
sponsor: Alpomania Ama Dablam Expedition 2019
countries: Kyrgyz Republic, Ukraine, USA
approach: Lukla->Island Peak->Ama Dablam BC
smtdate: 2019-10-22
smttime: 1000
campsites: BC(4500m),C1(20/10),C2(21/10),Smt(22,29/10)
agency: Climbalaya (Himalayan Guides, Imagine permits)
routememo:
  Climbed in two groups.

  First group of Syapvin, Koroleva and Polorusov left C2 on 22 Oct at 2:30 am, summited at 10 am, stayed 30 minutes, then descended to C2. They climbed without Sherpa support.

  Seliverstov, Runova and Semeskin with Ngima Nuru and Chhewang Lendu did speed ascent of Island Peak followed by speed ascent of Ama Dablam.


expid: AMAD19324
peakid: AMAD
year: 2019
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Joshua Ross
sponsor: Asian Trekking Ama Dablam Expedition 2019
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2019-10-07
smtdate: 2019-10-16
termdate: 2019-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6250m due to unsatble snow conditions
campsites: BC(06/10,4570m),C1(09/10,5770m),xxx(16/10,6250m)
agency: Asian Trekking (Himalayan Guides pmt)
routememo:
  BC  07/10  4570m
  C1  09/10  5770m
  C2         reached but did not sleep there.

  Did not summit. 6250m was high point on 16/10. Turned around because there was a lot of snow, didn’t feel safe because he was a small group, Sherpa was climbing slower than he wanted.

  Description of climb:

    Moved 300m in two and half hours on summit push (too slow).
    First five days had terrible weather, cloud and snowfall, cleared up after 
      that, moderate winds
    Couple pitons popped from fixed rope, but no injuries or other accidents
    Went down to BC after summit attempt, arrived around 4 pm.
    First person to show up on mountain.

  Left BC on 17/10.

  Sherpas: One [Nawang Tenzing]

  Fixed rope: Put in six pins and two pickets, but did not put up any ropes.

  Oxygen:
    Sherpa took one for emergency, did not use. Member did not take or use.


expid: AMAD19328
peakid: AMAD
year: 2019
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Pasang Tendi Sherpa
sponsor: TAGnepal Ama Dablam Expedition 2019
countries: Australia, Mexico, New Zealand
bcdate: 2019-10-21
smtdate: 2019-11-23
smttime: 1150
campsites: BC(21/10),C1,C2,C2.7,Smt(23/11)
agency: TAGnepal Trekking
routememo:
  Team was comprised of two groups:

  October team:
    Dominic Douglas
    Patrick Corden
    Olivia Page

  November team:
    Alexander Hillary
    George Hillary
    Emiliano Hurtado


  Alexander & George Hillary report:

  Prior: Arrived in Lukla 19 Oct and first did Lobuche East main summit.

  BC   16/11
  C1   19/11
  C2   20/11
  C2.7 22/11  6200m
  Smt  23/11 by both Hillary's, Hurtado plus 5 Sherpas at time at 11:50 am.

  Team set off at 7.30 am on 23 Nov (only Japanese couple ahead of them). Great conditions, cold, low wind. Around midway, hard ice. Summited at 11:50, stayed 1 hour, then descended to C3, had a break, packed up and headed down to BC by 6:30 pm.

  Oxygen: None


  October team report (Dom Douglas, Pat Corden, Olivia Page):

  "We were on the mountain (above base camp) between 21st and 27th October 2019 and attempted to summit on the night of 26th/morning of 27th. The highest we slept was C2 and we climbed maybe 300-400m higher than that before turning back. We returned to basec amp the night that we attempted to summit."


expid: AMAD19329
peakid: AMAD
year: 2019
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Arnold Coster
sponsor: Arnold Coster Expeditions Ama Dablam 2019
countries: Australia, Brazil, UK/Argentina
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2019-10-19
smtdate: 2019-10-29
smttime: 0550
termdate: 2019-11-06
campsites: BC(19/10,4600m),C1(24/10,5700m),C2(28/10,5900m),Smt(29/10,01,03/10)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Summiters:
    Karina Ragazzo Oliani with Tashi Sherpa, 29-10-2019, 5:50 am
    Andriy Hrytsyuk with Pemba Sherpa, 1-11-2019, 6 am
    Alexander Ignatov with Dawa Sangay Sherpa, 3-11-2019, 9 am
    Marcio Lage Pinto Moreina with Tashi Changba Sherpa, 3-11-20, 10:15 am

  Karina descended to C2 29 Oct and to BC 30 Oct; Andriy came down from BC after summit on 1 Nov; Miguel and Arnold descended to BC on 1 Nov. All other members slept in C2 on 3 Nov and descended to BC on 4 Nov (except Marcio & Max, see note at the below).

  Non-Summiters:
    Arnold Coster, 30-10-2019, C2, descended with Miguel Houben
      (Houben didn’t feel right and Coster assisted him down)
    Miguel Houben, 30-10-2019, C2, descended with Arnold Coster (gave up in C2)
    Bruno Felicetti Novarini, 2-11-2019, never left C2 (didn’t feel like summit)
    Thiago Lopes Melo, 3-11-2019 (gave up at 6300m)
    Michele de Pina Bastos, 3-11-2019 (gave up at 6100m)
    Maximo Kaush, 3-11-2019 (assisted Lopes Melo down from 6300m)

  Marcio Lago Pinto Moreira became extremely exhausted after summit and reached C3 at 6300m 13:30 in afternoon hardly moving at all. Dawa [Shangba] Sherpa, Karma Geljin Sherpa had to go up to assist his Sherpa Tashi Changba Sherpa. Marcio didn’t reach C2 until 21:00. The next day he descended with the three Sherpas and Max Kausch to C1 (4-11-2019) and needed another day to BC (5-11-2019). Besides exhaustion Marcio had no injuries.


expid: AMAD19331
peakid: AMAD
year: 2019
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Purnima Shrestha
sponsor: Purnima Shrestha Ama Dablam Expedition 2019
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2019-10-31
smtdate: 2019-11-10
smttime: 0845
termdate: 2019-11-12
campsites: BC(31/10,4600m),C1(02/11),C2(09/11),Smt(10/11)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  31/10
  C1  02/11  and for summit push on 8 Nov
  C2  03/11  just touched + returned BC, and for summit push on 9 Nov
  Smt 10/11  by Purnima and Pemba Sherpa at 8:45 am, stayed 15 mnutes.

  Left C2 on 9 Nov at 10 pm, weather was fine. At around 2 am wind started up very strong. Only 2 people summitted that day: Purnima and her guide. Descended to C2 at 4 pm on same day. Stayed the night. Back to BC on 11 Nov. Left BC on 12 Nov by walking.

  Oxygen: None

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Sherpa, Makalu-5, Tashigaon


expid: AMAD19332
peakid: AMAD
year: 2019
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Nirmal Purja
sponsor: Project Possible Ama Dablam Expedition 2019
countries: Canada, Italy, Kuwait, Mexico, UK, USA
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2019-11-02
smtdate: 2019-11-12
termdate: 2019-11-14
campsites: BC(02/11,4550m),C1(5700m),C2(6000m),Smt(12-13/11)
agency: Elite Exped (SST pmt)
routememo:
  Elia Saikaly report:

  Nims led his commercial team and left earlier than we did. His team was split up, flag team and commercial climbers. I was filming the one Kuwaiti climber with Pasang Kaji and [Phurba] Sonam who was Sirdar. 3 Kuwaiti members did not attempt the summit and remained at base camp. Perfect conditions, could not have been better. The film crew was there for 90-120 mins (Pasang Kaji and Elia Saikaly).

  Al Shatti made the summit, but ran out of gas and could not descend all the way on his own. A helicopter long-lined rescued him and brought him to base camp.

  On the commercial team:

    Marie Desharnais from Quebec, Canada summited same day as us
    Leonardo Avezzano from Italy summited same day as us
    Russ Hornsby from California summited one day before
    Iain Kuo from Wyoming summited one day before
    Thomas Stanton from UK did not summit
    Jeet Chatterjee from Canada (Indian) did not summit 
    Franco (Marco) Huerata from Mexico did not summit (injured his foot)

  Team Kuwait also had 7-8 trekkers that left after 2-3 days at base camp. All made it to Ama Dablam base camp except one, Ali, who departed from Namche by heli due to respiratory illness.

  Sandro Gromen-Hayes from UK was one of Nims’ guides/cameraman, he summited as well.

  Sagar was a local Nepali cameraman hired to be there as well (he did not climb).

  The rest were Sherpas. 

  There were at least 15 Sherpas, maybe more on the summit with the flag.

  The flag team arrived on the summit in the early morning hours before sunrise and were on the summit 4 to 6 hours before the flag hanging ceremony at around 9 am.


expid: AMAD19334
peakid: AMAD
year: 2019
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Sebastien Bernier
countries: China, Denmark
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2019-10-27
smtdate: 2019-11-05
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2019-11-07
campsites: BC(27/10,4600m),C1(6100m),C2(6400m),Smt(05/11)
agency: Seven Brothers Summiters (Satori Adventures pmt)
routememo:
  Andersen climbed Lobuche peak and returned KTM before BC from Pheriche due to cough on 29 Oct.

  Wu reached 100m below summit on 31 Oct and couldn't move due to high attitude sickness. His Sherpa Karma used oxygen immediately, but it was useless. The Sherpa brought him back to C3 and called insurance company for the helicopter rescue. They (Wu and Karma) arrived C3 at 3 pm on 31 Oct, but the helicopter couldn't land due to bad weather. On the next day (1st Nov) they were brought from C3 at 8:30 pm by helicopter and back to Lukla then to KTM, went to Swagon Hospital with another Chinese female climber (Ms. Zhao Dan) from Imagine team (Mingma Gyalje). Wu had cough/chest and knee problem and got a little bit frostbitten on his right hand little finger.

  Bernier left high camp at 11:30 pm the night before summiting, summited at 6:30 am on 4 Nov, stayed 30 minutes, then descended to C1 at 4:40 pm. It was very windy on their summit day(s). Bernier trekked back to KTM on 9 Nov.


expid: AMAD19337
peakid: AMAD
year: 2019
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Michael Schweiger
sponsor: Snowy Horizon Ama Dablam Expedition 2019
countries: Canada, Germany, India, Iran, Italy, Japan, Lebanon, Switzerland, UK
smtdate: 2019-10-29
campsites: BC,C1,C2,Smt(29/10,02,05,14,23/11)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks permit
routememo:
  Schweigher and Triessnig:

    Arr BC - 29 Oct (4600m)
    Adv BC - 31 Oct (5200m)
    C1     - 02 Nov (5800m)
    C2     - 03 Nov (6200m)
    Smt    - 05 Nov
    
  Schweigher and Ongchhu left C2 at 12:30 am on 5 Nov, summited at 8:03 am, stayed 15 minutes and returned to C2 at 2 pm. 

  Triessnig and Prakash followed about three hours later.
   
     


expid: AMAD19343
peakid: AMAD
year: 2019
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Iran
leaders: Iraj Maani Golestan
sponsor: Prestige Adventure Ama Dablma Expedition 2019
countries: Italy, Poland, Spain, Switzerland
bcdate: 2019-10-23
smtdate: 2019-11-01
campsites: BC(23/10,4100m),C1(25/10,5600m),C2(31/10,6000m),Smt(01,06-07/11)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Kozanecka and Sangbu Lama left C2 at midnight on 1 Nov, summited at 10 am, stayed 15 minutes, then descended to C2. Kozanecka left BC on 4 Nov.


expid: AMAD19344
peakid: AMAD
year: 2019
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Maximillian Nutman
sponsor: Mountain Monarch Ama Dablam Expedition 2019
countries: Australia, France, Ireland, USA
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2019-10-25
smtdate: 2019-11-02
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2019-11-04
campsites: BC(25/10,4600m),C1(31/10,5800m),C2(01/11,6000m),Smt(02/11)
agency: Mountain Monarch
routememo:
  Team left C2 at midnight. Cold and icy until C3 site. From then onwards it was probably 30-50 kph winds until the sun came up. Weather on summit was exceptionally good. Stayed 45 minutes, then down to C2 at about 4 pm.

  Frank Lasfargues went to 6650m, turned around due frostbite. No others made it higher than about 6200m.


expid: AMAD19345
peakid: AMAD
year: 2019
route1: SW Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Satyabrata Dam
sponsor: Pioneer Adventure Ama Dablam Expedition 2019
countries: Belgium, Nepal, Spain
smtdate: 2019-10-23
campsites: Smt(23,29/10,02,06/11)
agency: Pioneer Adventure
routememo:
  Suman Karthik report:

  BC  23/10
  C1  25/10  5680m
  HPt 25/10  at C1.

  Karthik fell down at 5680m approx on rock and broke her tail bone. Left BC 26 October evening by heli to Lukla.


  Other summiters on Pioneer Adventures permit

    Dawa Gyalzen Sherpa - 6 Nov
    Chhoki Sherpa - 2 Nov
    Pemba Nurbu Sherpa - 23 Oct
    Ang Babu Sherpa - 29 Oct
    Tenzen Sherpa - 29 Oct
    Ranjit Kumar Shah - 29 Oct
    


expid: AMAD19346
peakid: AMAD
year: 2019
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Romania
leaders: Radu Cornel Albu
sponsor: Himalayan Estasy Ama Dablam Expedition 2019
countries: Germany
smtdate: 2019-10-23
smttime: 0809
campsites: BC(4600m),C2(22/10,6100m),Smt(23/10)
agency: Himalayan Ecstasy Treks (Pioneer Adventure pmt)
routememo:
  From www.ebsradio.ro:

  Due to poor weather conditions, Radu Albu had only two days to climb the peak. Therefore ascent to camp 1, located at 5800 meters, was canceled. This caused climber try to reach the summit in less than 24 hours.

  So on Tuesday, October 22, at 7:00 Radu left the base camp at 4600 meters directly to Camp 2 located at an altitude of 6100 meters.

  On the same day, at around 23.00 he went to the summit, "jumping" Camp 3 at 6400 meters. On the morning of October 23 at 8.09, Radu was on top of the mountain at 6856 meters, after active climbing from base camp in about 16 hours.


expid: AMAD19348
peakid: AMAD
year: 2019
route1: SW Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Vivek Shivade
sponsor: Giripremi's Ama Dablam Expedition 2019
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2019-10-21
smtdate: 2019-10-29
smttime: 0630
campsites: BC(21/10,4500m),C1(23/10,5600m),C2(28/10,5900m),Smt(29/10)
agency: Peak Promotion (Pioneer Adventure pmt)
routememo:
  Vivek Shivade report:

  Shivade, Iyer and Phurba Sherpa left C2 at 10 am on 28 Oct, summited at 6:30 am on 29 Oct, stayed 10 minutes, then descended to C1.

accidents:
  Vivek Shivade had frostbite on middle finger and thumb of right hand (now on a recovery mode, no amputation though).


expid: AMAD19349
peakid: AMAD
year: 2019
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Elias De Andres Martos
sponsor: Spanish-Polish Ama Dablam Expedition 2019
countries: Poland
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2019-10-26
smtdate: 2019-10-29
termdate: 2019-10-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to client's cold hands and feet
campsites: BC(26/10,4600m),C1(27/10),C2(29/10,6500m),xxx
agency: Himalayan Ibex Adventure (Pioneer Adventure pmt)
routememo:
  BC  26/10  normal site
  C1  27 10
  C2  28/10  6200m (took 6 hours)
  Hpt 29/10  6500m at 9 am.

  Climb abandoned due to coldness in the hands and feet of the client.

  On 29 Oct woke at 2 am, winds did not decrease so they went ahead anyway. Turned back by 9 am, all the way down to BC. Spent night, then went to Namche. Flew out of Lukla 2 Nov.

  Oxygen: None

  Sherpa:
    Lobsang Sherpa (Karikhola)


expid: AMAD19350
peakid: AMAD
year: 2019
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Dawa Yangzum Sherpa
countries: Canada, USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2019-10-26
smtdate: 2019-11-05
termdate: 2019-11-08
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to exhaustion of client exhaustion
campsites: BC(26/10,4600m),C1(30/10,5600m),C2(04/11,6000m),xxx(05/11,6700m)
agency: Dawa Yangzum (Pioneer Adventure pmt)
routememo:
  BC  27/10
  C1  30/10  5600m
      03/11
  C2  04/11
  HPt 05/11  6300m

  Summit push started 5 Nov after midnight. Conditions good but a bit windy. 

  Dawa Yangzum and Callard stopped just above C3 at 6300m due to exhaustion (too slow).

  Pasang Gyalgen and Wang (Alexis) got to 6700m above Dablam, stopped due to clent exhaustion (too slow).

  Both teams descended to C2 and back to BC on 6 Nov.

  Left BC on 7 Nov Pasang + client, and Dawa and client on 8 Nov by walking.

  Oxygen: None


expid: AMAD19352
peakid: AMAD
year: 2019
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Sweden
leaders: Bjorn Lindwall
sponsor: Swedish Ama Dablam Expedition 2019
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2019-10-23
smtdate: 2019-10-29
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2019-11-01
campsites: BC(23/10,4600m),C1(25/10,4700m),C2(28/10,6000m),Smt(29/10)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion (Imagine Nepal pmt)
routememo:
  Summit team left C2 at 11 pm on 28 Oct, summited at 8 am, stayed 25 minutes, then descended to C1. Weather was -15 degrees, 4m/s wind, clear view.


expid: AMAD19354
peakid: AMAD
year: 2019
route1: SW Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Julie Wagner
sponsor: Pixie Ama Dablam Expedition 2019
approach: Lukla->Gokyo->Cho La->Everest BC->Ama Dablam BC
bcdate: 2019-10-31
smtdate: 2019-11-05
smttime: 0745
termdate: 2019-11-07
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak on 29/10 (by Wagner)
campsites: BC(31/10,4600m),C1(03/11,5700m),C2(04/11,5900m),Smt(05/11)
achievment: Wagner oldest woman to summit Ama Dablam
agency: Top Himalaya Guides
routememo:
  BC  31/10  4600m
  C1  03/11  5700m
  C2  04/11  5900m
  Smt 05/11  by Wagner, Dorchie Bhote, Ringin Bhote.

  Wagner, Dorchie and Ringin started from C2 at 11 pm, on summit at 7:45 am, down to C2 at 3 pm. Next day to BC. A lot of traffic on the way down. Lovely summit day, good weather, not much wind. Saw some long-line rescues on 05/11 and 06/11 from Ama Dablam.

  Webster didn’t climb. She got sick with AMS before and went home from Pheriche.

  Wagner left BC on 07/11.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used by Wagner from C2 to summit and a little down
    Not used by Sherpas.

  Hired:
    Dorchie Bhote (S)
    Ringin Bhote (S)


expid: AMAD19355
peakid: AMAD
year: 2019
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Hans-Henning Wolff
sponsor: Solo Alpine Ama Dablam Expedition 2019
countries: Austria, Nepal USA
approach: Lukla->Thami->Renjo La->Gokyo->Cho La->Dingboche->BC
bcdate: 2019-01-31
smtdate: 2019-11-05
smttime: 0915
termdate: 2019-11-07
othersmts: Summited Lobuche on 30 Oct
campsites: BC(31/10,4600m),C1(03/11,5800m),C2(04/11),Smt(05/11)
agency: Solo Alpine Treks
routememo:
  Summit team left C2 at 3 am, summited at 9:15 am, stayed 30 minutes, then descended to C1. 

  Route, weather and conditions were perfect. Many people on the way, especially traffic jam on the way down to C2 and C1.

  James Jones, Sonam Tshering Lama, Dawa Singhi Hyolmo and Jivan Rana Magar climbed separately.


expid: AMAD19357
peakid: AMAD
year: 2019
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: James Holding
sponsor: Jagged Globe Ama Dablam Expedition 2019
countries: Canada, USA
bcdate: 2019-11-23
smtdate: 2019-12-08
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2019-12-10
campsites: BC(23/11,4600m),ABC(25/11,5450m),C1(29/11,5700m),C2(07/12,5900m),Smt(08/12)
accidents: Ang Rinji Sherpa suffered minor frostbite on the tips of two toes, on summit day.
achievment: John Sanderson-Rooney (21), the youngest UK citizen to summit Ama Dablam
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  Summit team set out from high camp on 8 Dec at 2:15 am, stayed 20 minutes, then returned to C2 at 4 pm (Kelly continued on to BC arriving at 7:30 pm).

  Route in very good condition. Some rock pitches initially, but soon switching to crampons for snow/ice runnels through the Grey Tower. Mushroom Ridge straightforward, few cornices. Headwall in good condition, with a broad corridor not directly threatened by the Dablam serac. Good weather window of opportunity for our summit bid. Clear and cold conditions, with relatively light winds. We were the last group on the mountain for the autumn season.


expid: AMAD19360
peakid: AMAD
year: 2019
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Kristoffer Erickson
sponsor: Shangri-La Nepal Ama Dablam Expedition 2019
countries: Norway, Thailand
bcdate: 2019-10-22
smtdate: 2019-11-01
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2019-11-03
campsites: BC(22/10,4600m),C1(26/10,5850m),C2(31/10,6200m),Smt(01/11)
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  Summit team left C2 on 1 Nov at 1:30 am, summited at 8 am, stayed 2 minutes, then descended to C1. Good weather until C3, then high winds...clear skies.


expid: AMAD19401
peakid: AMAD
year: 2019
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Alex Chicon (Alex Txikon)
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Winter Ama Dablam Expedition 2019-2020
smtdate: 2020-01-25
smttime: 1015
campsites: BC(4700m),ABC,C2,C3,Smt(25-26/01)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  In addition to the 25 Jan summiters, Alejandro Ocana reached the summit of Ama Dablam on 26 Jan on his own. The other members did not climb.


expid: AMAD19402
peakid: AMAD
year: 2019
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Alexander Goldfarb Rumyantzev
sponsor: Gurla Mandata Ama Dablam Expedition Winter 2020
countries: Hungary
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->Ama Dablam BC
bcdate: 2020-01-27
smtdate: 2020-02-02
smttime: 1027
termdate: 2020-02-05
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East (24 Jan)
campsites: BC(27/01,4700m),C1(30/01),C2(31/01,5950m),C3(02/01,6250m),Smt(02/02)
agency: Gurla Mandata
routememo:
  Translated from www.russianclimb.com/amadablam_winter_2020.html

  On the 24th, under the leadership of Ngawang Sherpa, we went to the upper camp of Lobuche East, about 4-5 hours from Lobuche, set up a camp, took things apart and the next morning 1/25 started climbing Lobuche East around 4 am in the dark. Climbing this mountain was a difficult test, to which added cold and wind (although the weather was generally suitable). We started at 4 in the morning, and a few hours later reached the summit. It was a tiring climb, cold and windy. Returning to the high-altitude camp, we relaxed for 15-20 minutes, then turned the camp and in a couple of hours reached Tukla. The next day (1/26) from Tukla to Pangboche, and another day (1/27) to Ama Dablam base camp. At that moment, Ngawang Sherpa went home, and Pemba Sherpa joined the group.

  In the morning 1/28, we left the abandonment just below C1 and returned to the base camp, the next day - rest. At 1/30, we started our climb to the top, moved from base camp to C1, the next day from C1 to C2, the main difficulty was the “yellow tower”. On February 1, we got from C2 to C3, A very steep climb, a thin ridge and a strong wind. At this moment, Zoltan decently blew the wind on the ridge, as we moved rather slowly, he really fell ill in the evening, he began to have chills, and he could not keep warm. Since the assault attempt was scheduled for the next morning on February 2, leaving the camp at 4 am, it was unfortunate, but he could not take part in it. Pemba Sherpa and I (Alex) got up at 2:30 in the morning and started from camp around 4. This is a steep climb with a strong wind, plus cold. We were on top at 10:27 in the morning, very windy, we took a few pictures and hurried down. After spending another night in C3, we got up on the morning of February 3, rented a camp and went down to base camp. It was a very long day, we went down to the base camp in the dark, it’s good that we finally returned to a safe place. We took a rest day on February 4 to dry and take things apart, repack, and on February 5, we started the descent into the valley.


  Report from Alex Goldfarb - 9 Feb 2020

  Final update on Winter Lobuche-Ama Dablam Expedition

  Dear friends, we are on the on the way to warmth and civilization, arrived to Kathmandu yesterday. Our adventure is over to the most extent.

  This expedition idea was conceived in a  warm office, in Cambridge, Massachusetts.  Winter climbing being an additional step up to usual challenges to high altitude expedition. It always interesting to me how the idea that initially is called crazy, all of the sudden attracts attention, gets traction, expands, gets involved more people and all of the sudden the wheels are rolling, people are involved, the definition "crazy" is pushed to periphery and things are moving ahead. At some point even if you want to jump the train - it is too late.

  Winter climbing introduces more difficulties, mostly cold and weather related, but also lack of usual infrastructure in the winter, different condition of snow and ice, different physiological demands of the body. Last year a group of climbers including some of my friends planned to climb K2 in the winter, unbelievable project, that is yet to get materialized. The more I thought about it, the more I wanted to try climbing in the winter. Winter Ama Dablam popped up in my head, and the more I thought about it, the more I got fascinated. Also, when I thought about a partner, I immediately contacted my friend Zoltan Szlanko and within minutes received enthusiastic "Yes!". Than it was time to figure out our strategy, logistics, dates, talk to people at work, etc.

  Now our expedition is pretty much over, we are now back in Kathmandu; it is hard to imagine it has been over three weeks in the mountains, although thinking of some of the events - they seem very far in the past, like in another life. It was a successful, aggressive and relatively fast climb. We started by walking up the Khumu valley from Lukla on January 16. On 1/19 we got to Thyangboche, next day we went to Dingboche, weather improved, became clear (after we had lots of rain/snow at the beginning). On the 1/21 we got to Lobuche, it was way colder there than down in the valley. We thought we would need a little more acclimatization before attempting the summit of the Lobuche East and decided to trek up to the top of  Kalapattar (5550m) on 1/22 and then back to Lobuche, where we spent the next day for rest. On the 24th, led by Ngawang Sherpa we walked to Lobuche East high camp, about 4-5 hours up from Lobuche, set the camp, sorted out things and next morning 1/25 started climbing Lobuche East at about 4 am in the dark. Climbing this mountain was a challenge, added by cold and wind (though generally the weather was reasonable). We started at 4 am and got to the summit few hours later. It was a tiring climb, cold and windy. After coming back to high camp we relaxed for maybe 15-20 minutes, then broke down the camp and hiked to Tukla for a couple of hours. Next day (1/26), from Tukla to Pangboche, and the day after (1/27) to Ama Dablam base camp. At this point Ngawang Sherpa went home and Pemba Sherpa joined the group.

  On the morning on 1/28 we took a load to slightly below Camp 1 and went back to base camp, next day - rest. On 1/30 we started our summit push, went from base camp to Camp 1, next day from Camp 1 to Camp 2, main challenge being the "Yellow Tower." On February 1 we got from Camp 2 to Camp 3, very steep climb, thin ridge and a lot of wind. At this point Zoltan got a lot of wind exposure on the ridge as we were moving pretty slow, he got really sick in the evening with shaking chills and could not warm up. Because the summit attempt was planned for the next morning February 2 starting out of the camp at 4 am, it is very unfortunate that he could not participate in it. Pemba Sherpa and I (Alex) got up at 2:30 am and left the camp around 4. It is a steep climb with lots of wind and cold exposure. We were at the summit at 10:27 am, it is very windy, we took a few pictures and hurried down.  After spending another night at camp 3 we got up in the morning of February 3, broke down the camp and went down to base camp. It was a very long day, we came to base camp in the dark, it feels very good to be back to safety. We took a day of rest on February 4 to dry and sort out things, repackage, and February 5 (happy birthday to me!) started going down the valley.

  We want to thank many people who made our expedition a success. First and foremost, Gurla Mandata Trekking, and personally to Pasang for incredible organization of the logistics, supplies, and every other aspect of this project. We are incredibly grateful to Pemba Sherpa, our unbelievable guide to Mt. Ama Dablam. We are grateful to Nepalese Ministry of Tourism for support and motivation. We very much thank our sponsors (see lists of sponsors below), financial support was crucial for this project. We were very lucky to overlap on the mountain with Alex Txikon's expedition and to meet him briefly. The fact that their team fixed the ropes on the mountain was critical to our success, we never had a chance to say thank you in person, since they left to climb Everest by the time we god back to base camp. I (Alex Goldfarb) personally want to thank Miguel Fernandez (of the same Barcelona team), who, after my down suite fell off the mountain for 2000 meters; let me use his. Without this warm full body down suite one should not even attempt to climb Ama Dablam in the winter. And of course a huge thank you to our families, kids, parents, all relatives and friends, who let us do these crazy things. We are very grateful to those who provided information support (Elena Laletina and Laszlo Pinter) and those who followed our climb, without your interest and attention things would be completely different.

  Everything was happening we hope, with the help and support of G-D, and we observed small miracles on the daily basis, we are grateful to G-D for our success.

  And few final words. I will try to be deep and profound :-). I think it was Edmund Hillary, who said something to the effect "We do not conquer the mountains we conquer ourselves."  Mountain is a piece of rock, it is indifferent to you, it does not care, if you feel like you conquer anything, you are fool. Similar to running marathon or an ultra, the whole point is - you want to know what YOU are capable of, learn your limits, and move them outward. You conquer yourself of yesterday, yourself that is weaker, that is what you want to conquer and leave in the past.  And also, paraphrasing Walter White in the last episode of "Breaking Bad" - All that I did - I did it for me, I liked it, I felt alive, I thought I am really good at it (not a direct quote, I have no way to verify right now). What we do in the mountains - we mostly do for ourselves, it is a great feeling of direct visible goal, of personal expertise, challenge, tapping into personal experience, feeling of freedom, clear personal identity beyond artificial social layers and bullshit, feeling alive, young and capable. Of course we want to impress girls, of course public interest and attention are exciting. But ultimately, if you don't realize that climbing mountains is done for yourself - you might be missing on the most important part of it. We now come home with many stories, pictures and videos, but how can you transmit the whole experience to someone who is asking "how was it?" How do you explain cold and wind, and altitude and fear, and desperation, and giving up and at the last moment not giving up, and tears, and crying, and pain, and dehydration, and feeling sick, but also friendship, joy, beauty, and sense of accomplishment, strength, and warm sleeping bag at the end of the day, relationships free of bullshit, freedom, feeling strong, young and alive. This is something that will be left with us, as any other life experience, it makes us the men were are.


expid: AMOT19301
peakid: AMOT
year: 2019
route1: SSW Ridge from SE side
nation: Germany
leaders: Jost Kobusch
sponsor: Jost Kobusch Amotsang Expedition
ascent1: 1st
approach: Lower Mustang->Nar-Phu Valley
bcdate: 2019-10-18
smtdate: 2019-10-24
smttime: 1700
termdate: 2019-10-26
othersmts: Climbed Chulu Far East (Nov 1)
campsites: BC(18/10,4700m),ABC(21/10,5600m),Smt(24/10)
achievment: 1st ascent of Amotsang
agency: Satori Adventures
routememo:
  22 Oct: checked for the route trough the icefall. Went to c6000m (little bit below maybe).
  23 Oct: rested at ABC.
  24 Oct: summit day! Woke up at 3 am, left at 4 am. Crossing the icefall was actually fast (known route, tracks done). From the top of the icefall, soft flat section, then next section steep again in snow and ice where had very deep snow - acclimatization not awsome despite Ok. Then stood on a ridge, with very deep snow and crevasses on it. Summit reached at circa 5 pm. Made pictures and tricky fashionable dances. Started descent at 5:30 pm. Used same route back down, which went very fast, reached ABC at 10 pm where he slept.
  25 Oct: back to BC.
  26 Oct: walked to Nar.

  Route itself isn't technically hard: all easy in steep snow walk except a few ice vertical steps, 1 in particular in the upper section, and in icefall sometimes 70/80° ice short sections. Route exposed sometimes, with crevasses on the ridge.  
  Very isolated valley, peacefull.

  After summiting Amotsang, Kobusch went to the Chulu range to attempt a traverse from Chulu Far East to the main Chulu peaks.

  31 Oct: walked alone to Chulu Far East BC from Manang valley, put his tent.
  01 Nov: climbed Chulu Far East with amazing amount of braveness. 
  02 Nov: rested singing Jewish pop songs of grandpa. 
  03 Nov: begun the traverse towards Chulu East. Felt strong and acclimatized despite deep snow conditions similar to Amotsang. At circa 6000m weather turned bad with snow falls. Knew such unstable weather would continue next days, with new loose snow. Hadn't the gear suitable for the technical parts involving rock climbing. Not wishing to be stuck on the ridge, since Chulu traverse despite attractive was a side project, so decided to abandon. Back to BC on same day, pitched back his tent. 04 Nov: left BC.

  After that Kobusch went to Rolwaling with his girl friend, Jënni Jalonen.

  5794m peak ascent in Rolwaling: 

  On 17 Nov, Kobusch and his girl friend, had a fine day climbing the 5794m peak lying south to Tsho Rolpa Lake. They christened it "peanut butter" mountain. Duet stopped its effort 30m below the rocky top in scary windy conditions. Various medium difficulties for a few pitches: some mixed ground, some snow and ice, some rock climbing up to 6a (1 pitch).

  On 22 Nov, Kobusch and his girl friend climbed Parchermo by its normal route.


expid: ANN419301
peakid: ANN4
year: 2019
route1: NW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Stuart Peacock
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Annapurna IV Expedition 2019
countries: Germany, Russia, Spain, USA
approach: Manang Valley
bcdate: 2019-10-12
smtdate: 2019-10-27
termdate: 2019-10-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to knee-deep snow and dangerous avalanche conditions
campsites: BC(12/10,4850m),C1(15/10,5440m),C2(17/10,5910m),C3(26/10,6450m),xxx(27/10,6500m)
agency: Makalu Adventure
routememo:
  Notes from Adventure Peaks website:

  29th October

  The team are doing well, Steve and Norbu are now down with the rest of the team and they plan to clear the mountain and descend to Hongde tomorrow.

  28th October

  Stu called this afternoon to say that the team are back down safely at base camp after a challenging summit attempt. Steve and Norbu Sherpa have stopped at camp 1 on the way down to rest and will follow on down tomorrow. The team made it past the step to camp 3 and on the way to camp 4 the neve soon turned to knee deep snow which was tough going but unfortunately the avalanche risk was too high to continue. The weather conditions have been on side and otherwise conditions have been good so it’s not for lack of trying but most importantly the team are down safe.

  24th October

  The team are at base camp today, having one more rest day before they start moving up the mountain tomorrow to be in place for their summit bid early next week. The rope fixing team have made good progress, fixing almost 6km of rope so far. The plan is for them to get most of the way to camp 4 tomorrow.

  21st October

  Stu called in this morning from base camp with the main request being the all important world cup rugby results and premier league results from the weekend! They plan to head up to camp 2 tomorrow and the Sherpas will fix the lines up to camps 3 and 4, then the rest of the team will head up on 25th.

  20th October

  All the team are now down in the comforts of base camp.

  On the 15th we moved up to camp 1 after sorting out the food we needed for the next few days. From crampon point we were straight onto the fixed lines working our way up progressively steeper rocky terrain until we reached a steep slab corner. There is quite a bit of loose rock around so the team needed to be really mindful of this during ascent and descent. This was the first crux of the route which had to be negotiated with some awkward thrutching on the jumar and some huffing and puffing. Once above this the route traverses around to a snow filled gulley which winds its way up to rock step number 2, which has now been named Andrei’s step after Andrei assisted several of the team over this awkward rock step. The key is footwork on this tricky ground. Above Andrei’s step was just a couple of snow slopes bringing us into the snow covered rocky area of camp 1 at 5440m.

  On the 16th most of the team made a carry of personal gear up to camp 2. The Sherpas have done the hard graft of team kit carrying. Isabelle opted to stay at camp 1 and rest. The route to camp 2 is much more straight forward on snowy slopes with just one short steep section of 65 degrees before reaching the camp. This took around 3 hours and once we had spent a bit of time there and dropped kit off we quickly dropped back down to camp 1.

  The 17th saw the team move up to camp 2 at 5910m. Evaldas decided to stay at camp 1, having sustained a pull or something to his calf on the route to camp 1. Upon arriving at camp 2 the weather started to change and eventually the winds picked up and snow started to fall. It got quite windy through the night and we did sustain some damage to a couple of tents with one broken porch pole and one porch tear at the bottom of the fly.

  Due to the weather it meant that it was impossible to touch camp 3 on the 18th. So four of the team decided to head down to base camp, picking up Evaldas on the way, with five of the Sherpas. The rest of us decided to stay at camp 2 for an extra night of acclimatisation and then headed back down on the 19th.

  We are now enjoying some rest days at BC. Soon the Sherpas will make another rotation up the mountain to rig towards camp 4 and then we will head up for our summit bid, but in the meantime we will keep an eye on the weather.

  15th October

  Stu phoned in to say that the team were all at camp 1 after moving up the fixed lines today. Tomorrow they will try to touch camp 2.

  13th October

  Today the team walked up to 5200m, where they refreshed their ice axe, abseiling and jumar skills. They are looking forward to their puja tomorrow, with a plan to walk up to the start of the fixed lines after it.

  12th October

  Team AIV (Annapurna IV) are now at a very luxurious base camp 4818m. The Sherpa team have really done themselves proud with a lovely mess tent, shower and individual sleeping tents with thick matress, pillow and towel waiting for us on arrival.


  Stuart Peacock (SVM) - 17 July 2020

  Stuart Peacock, Andrei Kuznetzov, Jorge Egocheaga, Johannes Siebert, Edward Skipper, Steven Marin reached 6500m on 27 Oct. 

  Expedition abandoned due to very high risk of avalanche across the face to get to our planned C4. Snow was too deep to get on to the ridge. During the whole expedition we only experienced one night of bad weather, which is when we were at C2 for the first time. Other than that there was very little new snow, but the snow conditions left from the monsoon made the route above 6500m very dangerous.

  No other teams were on the mountain, so our sherpas fixed everything, using over 6km of rope, starting from 5000m to our high point.

  Emergency oxygen for medical use only (nobody required it).


expid: APIM19301
peakid: APIM
year: 2019
route1: NW Face
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Pavel Matousek
sponsor: Czech Api Expedition 2019
approach: Drive to Nepalgunj, Dadeldhura, Khaaga, Huti, Dang, Darchula
termnote: Abandoned due to impassible trail enroute to base camp
campsites: No Smt
agency: Campobase Trek
routememo:
  From the Himalayan Times - 28 Sept 2019

  According to Bishnu Prasad Mainali, managing director at Campobase Trek and Expedition Pvt Ltd, a team of four climbers from Czech Republic were unable to reach the base camp of Api Himal as the team found the trail fully ignored by the concerned government authorities.

  “Last year in the autumn season, a group of eight climbers had also been forced to abandon their climb after multiple landslides hit the trail,” Mainali recounted, adding that four of them who returned to Api Himal this season faced the same pathetic situation in the region.

  Mainali said that Mt Api in the far-western region had received a group of climbers this season after drawing a blank for over 18 years. The team led by Pavel Matousek comprises Olga Novakova, Antonin Belik and Vit Auermuller, as members.

  “The group was only able to reach near Ghati Bazar which is a six-day trekking from Darchula,” Mainali said, adding that the team decided to abandon their expedition after they were not able to cross the landslide at Ghati Bazar above Dumling on September 25.


expid: ARDN19301
peakid: ARDN
year: 2019
route1: NW Shoulder-W Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Bryce Brown
sponsor: Canadian Ardang Peak Expedition 2019
approach: Limi Valley
bcdate: 2019-10-31
smtdate: 2019-11-13
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2019-11-15
campsites: BC(31/10,4200m),C1(06/11,5200m),C2(12/11,5650m),Smt(13/11)
agency: Angs Himalayan Adventures
routememo:
  Brown and Twelker left high camp on 13 Nov at 7 am, summited at 2 pm, stayed 20 minutes, then descended back to high camp at 8 pm.

  New route/first ascent up the NW Shoulder via a morainal drainage, to a snow ramp to a col, then the rocky W Ridge to the summit snowcap.

  Their guide (Ang Tshering Lama) only went to BC and did not climb due to a knee injury.


expid: BARU19301
peakid: BARU
year: 2019
route1: SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: SummitClimb Baruntse Expedition 2019
countries: Australia, France, Netherlands, New Zealand, Russia, Switzerland
approach: Lukla->Thangnak->Khare->Baruntse BC
bcdate: 2019-10-27
smtdate: 2019-11-02
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2019-11-04
campsites: BC(27/10,5440m),C1(28/10,6100m),C2(0111,6407m),Smt(02/11)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  BC  27/10  5440m
  C1  28/10  6100m (Sherpas), 30/10 (foreign team)
  C2  01/11  6407m
  Smt 02/11  by 8 members + 6 Sherpas	at 9:30 - 11 am.

  8 members with 6 Sherpas left C2 on the early morning of the 2nd Nov about 1 am. Conditions: good, cold, slight breeze, clear. Summited between 9:30-11 am, spent 15 minutes on top, then descended to C2 (some people got back fast, some at 7:30 pm). Back to BC on 3 Nov.

  Team left BC on 4 Nov and walked over Amphu Laptsa to Chhukung then to Namche. Team flew back on the 9th Nov. Mazur followed on the 10 Nov.

  Oxygen: Not used.

  High points for 5 non-summiters:

  Simon Hamilton heli’d out from Kote (Thangnak) due to fever, cold, not feeling well on 20 Oct.

  Family group of 3: Chabert (Australia) only went up toward BC (on the same permit) and left on th 25nd Oct due to snowstorm.

  Kosart (Australia) rescued + heli’d out of BC due to HAPE, on 28th Oct.


expid: BARU19302
peakid: BARU
year: 2019
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Manuel Sanchez Galindo
sponsor: Prestige Adventure Baruntse Expedition 2019
countries: Poland, Switzerland
termnote: Abandoned due to strong winds and unstable snow
campsites: No Smt
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Haidar Navi and Andrezj Hawryluk were also members on the Prestige Adventures permit along with the Spanish.


expid: BARU19303
peakid: BARU
year: 2019
route1: SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Marek Wencel
sponsor: Crew Trek International Baruntse Expedition 2019
approach: Lukla->Khare->Baruntse BC
bcdate: 2019-10-17
termdate: 2019-10-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to deep snow and bad weather forecast
campsites: BC(17/10,5700m),C1(24/10,6100m),xxx
agency: Eco Tourism Adventure
routememo:
  Once team reached C1 at West Col at 6100m the weather turn for the worst and after 2 nights at C1, they returned to BC. Since the long term forecast was quite grim, they transitioned to Island Peak BC and climbed Island Peak instead.

  Team fixed 200m up to West Col from BC.


  Crew Treks FB Report: 
  Marek Wencel is with Domi Sherpa and 4 others.

  November 1, 2019
   
  Mera Peak and Baruntse Expedition Trip Report-you can't always get what you want!
  As the monsoon season was lingering over Nepal for an extra month stay, we rolled into Kathmandu with high hopes this monsoon thing does not involve us. After two days in the shit show of Kathmandu's Thamel District, we were desperately trying to get to the mountains.

  While waiting for two days at airports in Kathmandu and Ramechhap, we could not waste any more days - we pulled our ace of spades; Domi get us a chopper out of here! As the countless of tourists waited for their flights out of town, got on "one and only" heli that took off that day.

  Our pilot, Alister from Calgary somehow found a hole in the clouds and offloaded our group at Pangon, a village two days walk from Lukla; thus, saving us two days of hiking and putting us back on schedule.

  The next few days we walked in rain, fog and mist. Often slipped on steep trails, attacked by leaches and soaked to the bone.

  Once we got to Kote, the weather started to improve and we finally got to see Mera Peak in its full glory. The next few days consisted of acclimatization hikes and slow movement towards Khare, last major settlement at 17,000ft.

  As we got higher, the weather and snow conditions gotten better and better, no wind, no snowfall and everyone healthy! Our move to High Camp at 19,000ft went without a hitch and we settled for sleepless night before our summit bid.

  While all the groups were getting ready, High Camp was as busy as ever; kitchen workers dishing out meals, climbers running for the toilet, occasional pukes next to the tents and Sherpas tending to their teams.

  Domi Sherpa left with Jarek Sochacki at 2 am and Tom Tom, Brian Bowie and I roped up and got going at 2:45 am. 4 hr and 30 min of steady climbing got us to the summit.

  At 6200m (20350ft) Jarek and Domi had to turn around.

  Once back at the High Camp, we ate quick lunch, packed up and continued down to Mera La Pass at 5400m (17,700ft).

  At this point, Jarek Sochacki continued his journey back to Khare and then on Lukla, we on the other side continued long walk to Kongma Dingma and Baruntse BC, some 3 days walk down Hinku Valley.

  The weather continued to impress, and we hiked in the company of no one! The remoteness of Hinku Valley was profound; no people, no guest houses, no yaks-only incredible scenery!

  Upon our arrival at Baruntse BC, we quickly settled in and rested for one full day (the last 6 days were, go, go, go!).

  Our rest day was used for Puja (blessing of the expedition)Lama walked one full day from Kare to perform this ritual.

  The next day, we made a deposit run to 6000m/20,000ft just below fixed lines leading to the West Col at 6200m/20,350ft.

  Few days later, under already changing weather, we climbed to C1 at 6200m/20,350ft and settled in for the night. Little did we know, a two day storm engulfed the region with new 1/2m of snow, strong winds and ZERO visibility.

  The slopes between C1 and C2 been loaded with additional windblown fresh snow making progress impossible. Our Sherpa Team of Domi Sherpa and Salaka Mingma Crpa would not even dare to make it back to C1 at 6500m/21,300ft to retrieve deposited fixed lines, gas, food and pickets.

  We quickly realized-those slopes will take at least 7-9 days to stabilize and we'll need strong winds to help!

  Now, running out of time on Baruntse, we went for back up plan, Island Peak 6179m/20,300ft.

  Located one full and long days walk from Baruntse, one ONLY needs to cross the infamous Amphu Lhapcha Pass at 5800m/19,000ft.

  Again, the weather gotten worse and we labored up and down the pass under light snow. We followed some old fixed lines, steel cables and metal rods dotting Class 3 and Class 4 exposed terrain.

  Porters had hell of a time moving up and down on this terrain. I'm glad everyone stayed safe and we got to Chhukung under headlamps.

  After a day's rest, Brian Bowie and Tom Tom moved with Salaka Mingma Crpa Sherpa to Island Peak BC and Domi Sherpa and I hitched a heli back to Lukla-the next hours plus we dealt with Nepal Ministry of Tourism to get back our $2K garbage deposit-success!

  The next morning, as we waited for our flight back to Ramechhap we got message from Salaka Mingma Crpa - success; Brian Bowie and Tom Tom summited Island Peak!
  Even tough we did not get to summit our main objective Baruntse, considering the weather conditions we did great!

  Congratulations to Tom Jordan and Brian Bowie on your summits of Mera Peak and Island Peak. More summits await you!

  Jarek Sochacki: congratulations on your 6200m; next time will be better!

  Ralf Langer, sorry you got injured and could not join us in the mountains; do not despair; join another Crew Treks climb!

  Thank you Domi Sherpa, Salaka Mingma Sherpa and porters for your hard work and ingenuity to get things going!

  Until next time!


expid: BHRS19301
peakid: BHRS
year: 2019
route1: SW Ridge
route2: NE Cwm (up),SE Ridge (down)
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
sponsor: Paulo Grobel Lugula Expedition 2019
countries: Italy, Netherlands
approach: Besisahar->Phu_>Bhrikuti Shail BC
bcdate: 2019-09-24
smtdate: 2019-10-01
termdate: 2019-10-11
othersmts: Summited Julie Himal (6337m), Shelka Kangri (6358m) and Lugula (LUGU-193-01)
campsites: BC(24/09,5000m),C1(28/09,5640m),Smt(01,04-05,08/10)
agency: Himalayan Travellers Nepal
primid: LUGU19301
routememo:
  BC  24/09  5000m (Bhrikuti Shail BC)
  C1  28/09  5640m (Bhrikuti Shail High BC)
  Smt 01/10
  Smt 04/10
  Smt 05/10
  Smt 08/10  (see details below).

  Team first planned to climb Lugula from Damodar Kunda lakes in Mustang, then to carry on with the Bhrikuti traverse. Following a ministry of interior decision to add trekking permit cost to mountaineering expeditions in restricted areas, team changed its plans to climb Lugula from Phu side, climbing at first Bhrikuti Shail. Despite bad weather conditions, the team achieved both at separate periods, this through NW Ridge (located in Chinese territory). In addition, several different teams climbed other peaks surrounding.

  Team left BC on 11 Oct (members left BC on 6, 9 and 11 Oct).

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used

  Summit (Lugula):

    5 Oct: Isabelle Guillaume, Luc Gianetti, Philippe Henry, Paulo Grobel, 
           Dipen Bhote and Sajjan Gale.

    6 Oct: Reinier Zuidhoff, Folkert Bloembergen, Menno Frantzen, Marjolein Meere,
           Jean-Pierre Desforges and Sergio de Leo along with Dhan Magar, Karma 
           Sherpa, Dipen Bhote, Sonam Sherpa and Amrit Tamang.

    6 Oct: attempt of the full NW Ridge up to c.6600m, reached from a lower C3 by
           Isabelle Guillaume and Paulo Grobel. Duet intended a traverse, down by 
           SW Ridge. Members back to BC between 5 and 9 of Oct.

  Summit (Julie Himal) by E Ridge:

    2 Oct: by Hugues de Varax, Paulo Grobel, Philippe Henry, Stanislas Fouquier 
           and Karma Sherpa.

    4 Oct: by Sergio de Leo and Karma Sherpa.

  Summit (Shelka Kangri), first ascent via Julie Himal's traverse, then E Ridge:

    4 Oct: by Sergio de Leo and Karma Sherpa.

  Summit (Bhrikuti Shail): by southern slopes to the col, then SW Ridge:

    1 Oct: Isabelle Guillaume, Luc Gianetti and Paulo Grobel.

    4 Oct: Reinier Zuidhoff, Folkert Bloembergen, Menno Frantzen and Marjolein 
           Meere.

    5 Oct: Philippe Cholat-Namy, Hugues De Varax, Stanislas Fouquier and Dorje Bhote.

    8 Oct: Traverse by northeast slopes from Minerva glacier up, down by SE Ridge
           by Isabelle Guillaume, Paulo Grobel, Dipen Bhote and Anil Rai.

achievment:
  1st ascent of Selka Kangri, 1st ascent of Lugula NW Ridge, 1st traverse of Bhrikuti Shail (up by NE Cwm, down by SE Ridge).


expid: CHAM19301
peakid: CHAM
year: 2019
route1: N Face (up)
nation: Germany
leaders: David Goettler
sponsor: International Chamlang Expedition 2019
countries: France, Italy, USA
approach: Lukla->Chhukung->Chamlang BC
bcdate: 2019-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to bad weather and tricky conditions
campsites: BC(15/10,4800m),xxx(6000m)
agency: Himalaya Vision
routememo:
  Planned to traverse the three peaks of Chamlang (7321m western, 7235m central eastern and 7290m eastern), starting from the north side.

  Team only went to 6000m on the normal route on Chamlang and abandoned due to bad weather and tricky conditions. They did not set up any camps.


expid: CHAM19302
peakid: CHAM
year: 2019
route1: N Spur (to 6700m)
route2: NE Face (to 7240m)
nation: France
leaders: Benjamin Vedrines
sponsor: French Chamlang Expedition 2019
approach: Lukla->Mera La->Chamlang BC
bcdate: 2019-10-08
smtdate: 2019-10-18
termdate: 2019-10-19
termnote: Abandoned at 7240m due to impending bad weather
achievment: 1st ascent of NE Face to top of N Spur
agency: Panorama Himalaya Trekking (Himalaya Vision pmt)
campsites:
  BC(08/10,5050m),ABC(09/10,5400m),C1(10/10,6050m),Biv1(11/10,6630m),xxx(6700m);
  ABC2(17/10,5550m),Biv2(18/10,6080m),xxx(7240m)

routememo:
  BC   08/10  5050m at Seto Pokhari tea house
  ABC  09/10  5400m at lake at 5400m
  C1   10/10  6050m at Chamlang Glacier (c6050m Garmin Inreach)
  Biv1 11/10  6630m on N Spur
  Hpt  11/10  6700m on N Spur by both members

  North Spur attempt (to 6700m):

  08 Oct: no real BC, made it at Seto Pokhari tea house, 5050m, which is very close to the start of their intended routes.

  09 Oct: camp at a 5400m lake, located west to the start of the route to col giving access to Chamlang Glacier. Carried some gear at the glacier not far from north face of the col.

  10 Oct: climbed the North Face of the c.6070m col giving access to flat Chamlang Glacier. 2 hard pitches (including one in M3/M4). One old belay with 2 pitons modified for a new location. Camped at c.6050m on the flat Chamlang glacier, south to the ridge between Hongku Chuli and Chamlang North Spur, this after duo had broken the trail afoot of the East Face of N spur and fixed a rope there (slope 55°).

  "6260m point (Finn Map) is a small rocky peak located east to the col. Looking from north, col left of that 6260m peak looks like an easier access to Chamlang Glacier, but on its south side, a 50m rock cliff defends the access to Chamlang glacier. Why it's eventually an easier solution by the Basque/French route, with a simple straight access on south side."

  11 Oct: woke up at 4:30 am. Trail had been slightly filled up with snow by the wind. Reached top of the fixed rope. Following were easy snow pitches under a strong sun, however not moisting much the snow. A pitch at the end was more technical with steep snow slightly "sugar like" with ice sometimes (sections up to 90 degrees). Reached the N Spur horizontal section after that preliminary East Face found in very good conditions. With less snowy conditions, duo attacked more by the left than Clouet team line and finished more by the right of it, middle section being the same.

  From there got some steep snow (sometimes "sugar like" (hard to protect but generally ok) to join previous Clouet team 6500m bivouac under its caracteristic rock pinacle. Reached that former bivouac place at circa 1-2 pm.

  Then duo went into unknown. Had 1 mixed pitch on the right flank of the ridge, then 1 steep snow pitch on the edge of the ridge. From there impossible to follow the latter, so made a c.70m horizontal/slightly descending traverse on the right flank. This to reach an ice line allowing to overcome the steep horizontal rock layer trough that soft ice (4+) section in the sun. From there had 1 right side ascending pitch in delicate snow and ice (3+/4). From there they ascended up to the left, leaving the logical continuing line of previous pitch going straight above slightly to the right. Fixed their highest belay for the attempt, slightly below 6700m. Fixed rope here considering the last pitches difficulties, then abseiled to a 6630m bivouac, both imagining to continue the day after. In the afternoon however, Nicolas Jean health became less and less good; showed excessive tiredness, then vomited reaching the bivouac, then got headache.

  12 Oct: in the morning, Nicolas showed a slight improvement, but not good enough to commit up beyond 7000m in such a shape. Both decided to come back down despite good route and weather conditions (only 20-30 km/h west wind might have been little annoying on the edge of the ridge). Abseiled and climbed down. The East Face of the North Spur was in perfect condition, with snow even not at the ankle and an ending all in snow. Then made 10 abseils to reach the bottom of 6070m col's North Face. Reached tea house BC at 5 pm.

  13 Oct: walked back to Khare (behind Mera La).

  Line without many objective risks. Benjamin wonders if the line wouldn't be more feasible in autumn, feeling all spring pictures he could watch so far presented a rather dry West Face, which is the key to climb North Spur. The ice pitch forcing the steepest rock layer seems essential, despite apparent possibilities for difficult aid climbing on the left of it.

  N Spur attempt abandoned on 12 Oct due to health condition of rope partner.


  NE Face to 7240m top of N Spur:

  17 Oct: duo got some news from weather forecaster Yann Giezendanner, with him announcing a short ending good weather window, so that duo started straight from Khare in the morning, crossed Mera La, packed some gear at tea house BC, then went up at 5550m to bivouac at the glacier limit (25mn distant from the beginning of col 6070m North Face).

  18 Oct: started from new ABC at 6:40 am. Left a rope for descent plus technical gear (used only for the 2 hard pitches) atop of the 2 pitches. From there reached flat glacier, putting their tent in a sheltered place at 6080m (in fact higher than col 6070m, different than during N Spur attempt). Had a rest from 10 am to noon, remaining caught in the clouds (differently than weather forecast had announced).

  Eventually started, walking down to the flat part of the glacier (6050m). Then in an uncertain weather context, had a "time of professional lucidity," hesitating during 1:20 about the choice to do. Contacted Giezendanner again: snow was announced for Saturday afternoon, so there were no other possibilities! However in a last message, forecast told "snow next night." Despite a late start sounded ambitious, on the other hand knew the descent would go fast like 4 hrs. Despite temptation to renounce, duo started!

  At c.1:50 pm, duo attacked the NE Face at c.6060m. Would climb solo most of the time. Average steepness of the snow/ice slope like 50/55°, 65° maximum. At 7000m still in the face, got a 50m horizontal traverse section with hidden ice, sole difficulty of the route to go towards the exit: here used the 60m rope, plus 3 ice screws with simple carabiners. Once on the summit ridge, traversed 50m west to reach at 7:10 pm the top of the N Spur, measured at 7240m. "Looked like a real nice little summit, offering good perspective on ridges towards north, west and east." Stayed about 5 min up there to make pictures and check the altitude. Wind about 45km/h. Went down in less than 3 hrs, using rope again to traverse the 50m section at 7000m. Reached their tent between 10 and 10:20 pm.

  19 Oct: from bivy on Chamlang Glacier to Chamlang BC (where North Face expedition with Goettler/Barmasse stayed). Left BC on 19 Oct.

  HPt on 18/10  7240m at top of N Spur by both members (Garmin Inreach measurement).

  Fixed rope:
    1 rope fixed in East Face access to N spur.
    2 other ropes fixed between Biv1 and high point reached on N Spur.

  Oxygen: not taken, not used

  Sherpas: none

  Routes: N Spur of main summit and NE Face to top of N Spur.


expid: CHOY19301
peakid: CHOY
year: 2019
route1: NW side
nation: Nepal
leaders: Sherpa Rope-Fixing
sponsor: Sherpa Rope-Fixing Cho Oyu 2019
smtdate: 2019-09-23
smttime: 1030
campsites: ABC,C1,C2,C3(22/09),Smt(23/09)
routememo:
  Sherpa Rope-Fixing team:

    (1) Chhewang Lendu Sherpa (IMG)
    (2) Pasang Sherpa (IMG)
    (3) Palden Namgya Sherpa (Alpenglow)
    (4) Nima Tenzing Sherpa (Alpenglow)
    (5) Esteban (Toppo) Mena
    (6) Lhakpa Ongcchu Sherpa (Himalayan Guides)

  Plus:

    (7) Nirmal Purja (Nims dai)
    (8) Gesman Tamang (Nims dai's climbing partner)

  Fixed 1500m from C2 to to.


expid: CHOY19302
peakid: CHOY
year: 2019
route1: NW side
nation: Nepal
leaders: Phu Nuru Sherpa
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Cho Oyu Expedition 2019
countries: Australia, Japan, Netherlands, USA
approach: By flight to Lhasa->Tingri->ABC
bcdate: 2019-09-10
smtdate: 2019-09-25
smttime: 0915
termdate: 2019-09-28
campsites: ABC(10/09,5700m),C1(16/09,6400m),C2(24/09,7120m),Smt(25/09)
achievment: Gabrielle Kanizay youngest person to summit Cho Oyo [with oxygen]
agency: Beyul Adventure
routememo:
  ABC 10/09  5700m
  C1  16/09  6400m
  C2  24/09  7120m
  Smt 25/09  by Silloway at 9:15 am (NST)
             by Gabby Kanizay at 9:30 am
             by Inagaki and Jane Kanizay at 9:55 am
             by Van Kesteren at 11:15 am.

  Summit team left from C2 at 1:16 am on the 25th Sept. Conditions: wasn’t too cold, slightly snowing, not great visibility. After the Yellow Band it was a little clear. Loose snow in places.

  Time spent on summit:
    Inagaki 20 minutes
    Van Kesteren 5 mins
    Silloway 45 mins (broke trail with her Sherpa guide Chhewang Lendu)

  Back to C2 and spent the night there and down to ABC on the 26 Sept.

  Oxygen: From C2 taken and used.

  Sherpas:
    Mingma Sherpa, Khumjung-9 (with Inagaki)
    Pasang Kami Sherpa (PK), Khumjung-9 (with Van Kesteren)
    Chhewang Lendu Sherpa, Khumjung-9 (with Silloway)
    Phu Nuru Sherpa, Khumjung-9 (w Gabby Kanizay)
    Pasang Sherpa, Makalu (with Jane Kanizay)


expid: CHOY19303
peakid: CHOY
year: 2019
route1: NW side
nation: Nepal
leaders: Nirmal Purja
sponsor: Project Possible 14/7 - Cho Oyu 8188m
smtdate: 2019-09-23
smttime: 1030
campsites: Smt(23/09)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Nirmal Purja and Gesman Tamang summited along with the Sherpa rope-fixing team no 23 Sept at 10:30 am.


expid: CHOY19304
peakid: CHOY
year: 2019
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Chad Peele
sponsor: Alpenglow Rapid Ascent Cho Oyu Expedition 2019
countries: Denmark, Ecuador, Germany, Iran
approach: By flight to Lhasa->Tingri->ABC
bcdate: 2019-09-11
smtdate: 2019-09-25
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2019-09-28
campsites: BC(11/09,5000m),ABC(12/09,5700m),C1(18/09,6400m),C2(24/09,7100m),Smt(25/09)
agency: Himalaya Vision
routememo:
  Alpenglow summiters:

    Chad Peele
    Ben Veres
    Sven Borho
    Imre Jeszek
    Mehdi Nasootifard
    Jan Werner
    Esteban Mena

    Dorjee Sonam Sherpa
    Palden Namgye Sherpa
    Nima Tenzing Sherpa
    Pasang Sonam Sherpa
    Tashi Sherpa

  Summit team left C2 at 1:30 am on 25 Sept, summited at 9:30 am, stayed 30 minutes, then descended to C1 and ABC. Good conditions.

  Oxygen: From 6700m to top to 7000m.


expid: CHOY19305
peakid: CHOY
year: 2019
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: David Hernandez Pujol
sponsor: Climbalaya Cho Oyu Expedition 2019
countries: France, Germany, Mexico, Taiwan
approach: By flight to Lhasa->Tingri->ABC
bcdate: 2019-09-13
smtdate: 2019-09-25
smttime: 0920
campsites: ABC(13/09,5700m),C1(17/09,6400m),C2(20/09,7140m),Smt(25/09)
agency: Climbalaya
routememo:
  David Hernandez Pujol and Hector Velasco report:

  ABC 13/09  5700m
  C1  17/09  6400m
  C2  20/09  7140m
  Smt 25/09  by Pujol following just after Magnin (maybe 10 mins) at 9:30 am (NST).
  Smt 25/09  by Velascon at 10 am.

  Summit team left C2 25 Sept between 1 and 1:30 am. Conditions: snowing, not clear visibility. Snowing in the mist/cloud. 

  After summiting, went straight down to C1 (rested in C2 a little bit), arrived C1 at 5 pm. Stayed the night there. Headed to ABC at 11 am on 26th Sept.

  Oxygen: Magnin and Velasco used, Pujol none.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Sherpa, Thame
    Chirring Wangchu Sherpa, Thame
    Ngima Nuru Sherpa, Khumbu (smt EVER 22 times)


  Felix Prokop report:

  Smt 25/09 by Prokop and Sherpa at 10:30 (NST).

  25 Sept: Second night at C2 at 7140m started for summit push at 2:12 am. Conditions: -8 degrees in the tent. Clear, but snow crystals falling, very dark. 15cm of fresh snow at the camp. Once you left the track, you sunk in. Stayed like this for about 45 mins until you could see the a part of the moon on the summit and stars. By sunrise was a bit above the Yellow Band, above the rocky part, still dark. Then began to get light, but cloudy throughout after until about 8000m had a little view down to Nangapa La glacier.

  A little bit of traffic jam after second ridge at start of climb because someone had some problems. Also, a little bit on the rocky part of Yellow Band.

  Time on summit: 38 minutes. Met David Pujol team at summit. Super cloudy at summit, 20-30m visibility. Sometimes opened up a little bit.

  Struggled a bit on the last 100m to summit, skis on the back, etc. Last section sometimes fixed lines, sometimes not.

  Descent: skied first 200m on the track. Had to push himself through because it was so flat! Skied, but attached himself to the safety rope until the Yellow Band because bad visibility! Then reached the Yellow Band and waited as Alpenglow team were descending, abseiling parts he skied down.

  On the rocky part Prokop didn’t take off skies, but abseiled down. Then continued to ski from right below the Yellow Band to C2 without safety on/clipping in.

  Just above C2 at 7200m Prokop got in a snow slide. He stopped to rest and felt the slide moving. So got back on the trail/track. Due to no visibility, he could not see the snow slide, just could feel it.

  From C2 took off the skis, packed his gear, had some tea, spent 1.5 hrs there then once everything was packed skied down to C1. On the way to C1 abseiled a bit for 3-4m. Skied on the traverse, and skied down the ice cliff. Abseiled without skis, then skied all the way to C1.

  No snow at C1. Packed gear. Descended to ABC at 8:15 pm in the dark, still 25 Sept. Back to ABC on 25 Sept.

  Oxygen: No O2 for Prokop.

  Sherpa:
    Nima Kancha, Thame


expid: CHOY19306
peakid: CHOY
year: 2019
route1: NW side
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Taras Pozdnii
sponsor: Ukrainian Cho Oyu Expedition 2019
approach: By flight to Lhasa->Tingri->ABC
bcdate: 2019-09-08
smtdate: 2019-09-24
smttime: 1000
campsites: CBC(08/09,4800m),IC(10/09,5170m),ABC(11/09,5700m),C116/09,6400m(),C2(23/09,7150m),Smt(24/09)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  CBC 08/09  4800m
  IC  10/09  5170m
  ABC 11/09  5700m
  C1  16/09  6400m
  C2  23/09  7150m
  Smt 24/09  by Pozdnii and Lakpa at 10 am.

  Summit team left C2 at 1:10 am. Weather was calm, but cloudy. The tracks from Nirmal Purja and his team were partially covered, but still the snow was knee-deep in places. Lakpa and Pozdnii were the only two people going for the summit that day. They spend about 1 hour on the summit (including finding the true summit) and then descended to ABC where they arrived at 6 pm. Team left ABC 28/09.

  Oxygen: Ttaken and used from C2 to summit to C1 by Pozdnii and Lakpa.

  Sherpa:
    Lakpa Sherpa, Makalu, 27 yrs


expid: CHOY19307
peakid: CHOY
year: 2019
route1: NW side
nation: Austria
leaders: Martina Bauer
sponsor: Austrian Cho Oyu Expedition 2019
approach: Via Kerung and Tingri
bcdate: 2019-09-11
smtdate: 2019-09-25
smttime: 1322
campsites: ABC(11/09,5700m),C1(16/09,6400m),C2(23/09,7125m),C3(24/09,7500m),Smt(25/09)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Martina Bauer left C3 at midnight, summited at 13:22 pm, stayed 10 minutes, then descended to C2 at 19:30 pm. No sight, no wind, lot of snow.

  Oxyen: Bauer none, Sherpas used from C3 7500m to summit to C3.


expid: CHOY19308
peakid: CHOY
year: 2019
route1: NW side
nation: Iran
leaders: Alireza Behpour
sponsor: Iranian Cho Oyu Expedition 2019
approach: By flight to Lhasa->Tingri->ABC
bcdate: 2019-09-11
smtdate: 2019-09-25
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2019-09-28
campsites: ABC(11/09,5730m),C1(16/09,6410m),C2(25/09),Smt(25/09)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  ABC 11/09  5730m
  C1  16/09  6410m
  C2  25/09  7150m
  Smt 25/09  by Behpour and Lhakpa at 10 am (NST).

  From C2 set off on 25 Sept at 2:00 am. Conditions: Snowing, calm, not good visibility because of fog, but no wind. Snowing ceased early morning, but got cloudy. Summited at 10 am, stayed 30 miutes, then back to C2 in heavy snowfall and bad visibility, so stayed one night there. 26th Sept headed to ABC. Rested one night, the left ABC on 28 Sept.

  Note: The only problem was the early deadline given by China to get out of Tibet by 1st Oct.

  Oxygen: Used from C2-summit-C2

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Tshering, Pangboche, 35 yrs


expid: CHOY19309
peakid: CHOY
year: 2019
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Bill Crouse
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Cho Oyu Expedition 2019
countries: Canada, France, Germany, Ireland/UK, Sweden
approach: By flight to Lhasa->Tingri->ABC
bcdate: 2019-09-07
smtdate: 2019-09-25
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2019-09-28
campsites: CBC(07/09,4900m),IC(08/09,5300m),ABC(09/09,5700m),C1(14/09,6400m),C2(24/09,7100m),Smt(25/09)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Adventure Consultants Cho Oyu team led by Robert Smith never left Lhasa as the wife of Roland Smith (client) broke her ankle in Lhasa and they all came back to Kathmandu. They never even reached BC. Rob Smith then joined the AC expedition on Manaslu.


  Liliya Ianovskaia report:

  CBC 07/09  4900m
  IC  08/09  5300m
  ABC 09/09  5700m
  C1  14/09  6400m
  C2  24/09  7100m
  Smt 25/09  by Ianovskaia and Nurbu [Funuru].

  Summit push started from C2 at 1 am on 25 Sept, they got to the top at 12 noon and stayed on summit about 5 minutes. They returned C2 at 5 pm. Next day 26 Sept went down to ABC. The summit push day was cloudy, fresh snow and very poor visibility all the way up to summit. They saw some flags on the summit. On their way up met some members of IMG coming down. They met the Austrian woman (SST) without supplementary oxygen before 20-25 minutes from the summit. The weather during the expedition period all the time snowing. Left ABC on 28 Sept.

  Oxygen: C2 to Summit, Sherpa the same

  Ianovskaia was a Satori Adventure client of HG permit.


  Bill Crouse-Tanja Kober report:

  ABC 09/09  5460m
  C1  17/09  5695m
  C2  25/09  6449m
  Smt 26/09  by Crouse, Kober and Sherpas at 6 am (NST).

  Left C2 at 11:40 pm on the 24th Sept. Conditions: new snow, about 30cm. Clear visibility, no wind. Summited at 6 am, stayed 30 minutes. Descent: sunny, clear, got to C1 and stayed the night. Left for ABC on 27th Sept at 8:00 am, back to ABC on at 11:30 am. Left ABC on 28th Sept.

  Oxygen: Used on summit day to C2.

  Sherpas:
    Lakpa Wangchu, lower Pangboche, 28 yrs
    Pemba Nuru Sherpa, Khumjung, about 30 yrs


  Jean-Luc Bremond report:

  CBC 07/09  4900m
  ABC 09/09  5600m
  C1  14/09  6400m
  C2  24/09  7200m
  Smt 25/09  by Bremnod 12:17 pm (10:02 am NST).

  2 Swiss: Bill (7 times Everest summiter) and Tanja. Used 3 oxygen bottles on summit day (summit in the night of 25 to 26).

  1 Canadian: Lily, from Belorussia, living in Toronto. Used 2 oxygen bottles on summit day. Summit on 25 Sept before Bremond (she passed him in the slopes after the Yellow Band) in the morning.

  Summit schedule:

  23 Sept: ABC-C1
  24 Sept: C1-C2
  25 Sept: C2-summit.

  Started at midnight. Trail not so good, with unconsolidated snow in the tracks due to descent of summiters. Once topping the summit plateau, his Sherpa less motivated suggested to stop, but Bremond demanded him to continue. Both without oxygen summited at 12:17 (CST). Bad weather (snowing) came as they were abseiling in the Yellow Bband. Reached C2 at 5 pm. Both tired after 17h go back. Shared the night in the same tent with Lily and her Sherpa (Nurbu Sherpa), quite inconfortable.

  26 Sept: C2-ABC.
  Left ABC on 28 Sept for Chinese BC, sleeping at Tingri.

  Bremond had no training before coming to Nepal, hard physically for him. Harder for him than Manaslu in 2015 where he could enjoy more than 2 hours on top. This season had bad weather most of time during the expedition, as if monsoon hadn't finished. Sole summit window for the 25-26 Sept (most of summiters on 25 Sept). Summit conditions not good.

  According to Bremond 3 members made it without oxygen (not counting hired here) this season: him, 1 Austrian female climber (success at her 5th attempt; was the only one to sleep at 7500m under the Yellow Yand), and one German who skied down (1 French member in his team, who made it with oxygen). All  summits on 25 Sept.

  Oxygen: not taken, not used.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang X Sherpa, working for HG.


expid: CHUG19301
peakid: CHUG
year: 2019
route1: W Face-N Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: David Suela Hernandez
sponsor: Spanish Chukyima Go Expedition 2019
bcdate: 2019-10-15
smtdate: 2019-10-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to poor snow conditions
campsites: BC(15/10),Biv1(16/10),Biv2(17/10),Biv3(18/10,6150m),xxx(6200m,19/10)
agency: None
routememo:
  From the Himalayan Times - 20 Oct 2019

  DOLAKHA: A Spanish mountaineer has died while descending from Chukyima Go mountain in Dolakha district, on Saturday, police said.

  The District Police Office, Dolakha, identified the deceased climber as Luis Felipe Valverde Guzman, 44, of Spain.

  “Guzman lost his life after falling into the gorge while descending after successfully climbing the 6,258-metre mountain in the district, yesterday morning,” DPO said.

  Another mountaineer, who was also descending after scaling the same mountain was rescued alive, police shared.


expid: DHA119301
peakid: DHA1
year: 2019
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Sophie Lavaud
sponsor: Seven Suummit Treks Dhaulagiri Expedition 2019
countries: Brazil, Bulgaria, Chile, Hungary, Italy, Pakistan, Spain, UK
approach: Trekking via Marpha or by heli to BC
bcdate: 2019-09-15
smtdate: 2019-10-03
termdate: 2019-10-12
campsites: BC(15/09,4650m),C1(5700m),C2(6450m),C3(7250m),C4(7500m),Smt(03/10)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Seven Summit Treks Dhaulagiri expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-3 climbers each). Seven Summits provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Sophie Lavaud (Switzerland/France)

  Appr:  Marpha & heli to BC
  Camps: BC(15/09,4750m),C1(21/09,5700m),C2(23/09,6500m),xxx
  Left:  25/09/2019
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 6500m due to health condition of mother back home.

  Oxygen: Taken, not used.

  Sherpa: Dawa Sange (Makalu-Barun)


  Varga Csaba (Hungary)
  Luis Cortadellas (Spain)
  Agustin Abanades (Spain)

  Appr:  Marpha & heli to BC
  Camps: BC(18/09,4650m),C1(27/09,5600m),C2(02/10,6550m),C3(10/10,7250m),xxx
  Left:  13/10/2019
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned at 7350m due to snow and wind conditions.

  Oxygen: Taken, not used [?]


  Moeses Fiamoncini (Brazil)
  Juan Mohr Prieto (Chile)
  Sean James (UK)

  Appr:  Trekked via Marpha
  Camps: BC(15/09,4700m),C1(22/09,5700m),C2(23/09,6500m),C3(02/10,7250m),
         C4(02/10,7500m),Smt(03/10)
  Left:  ?
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Success by Juan Mohr Prieto on 03/10
   
  Fiamoncini and Mohr started from C3 at 10 pm. Mohr was faster than Fiamoncini and he reached the summit at around 3 pm. At 1 pm (~8100m) Fiamoncini fell in the couloir for 50m, sliding down the slope damaging his helmet, and getting some bruises and frostnip on his fingers. He tried again to climb up the couloir, but was feeling too cold and decided to abandon the climb. On the way down he met Mohr again and they both walked back to C3 arriving at 10:30 pm. 

  Sean James reached high point at C4 at 7500m on 02/10. He spent two nights in C4 and was suffering from diarrhea and had to abandon climb on 04/10.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


  Sergi Mingote Moreno (Spain)

  Appr:  Trekked via Marpha
  Camps: BC(21/09,4700m),C1(22/09,5700m),C2(23/09,6500m),C3(02/10,7250m),Smt(03/10)
  Left:  05/10/2019
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Success by Mingote at 1:30 pm.

  Started at C3 at 9:30 pm, summited at 1:30 pm. down to C3 at 8 pm. Good summit day, windy, a lot of snow on the route. No fixed rope on traverse, very dangerous.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


  Muhammad Ali Sadpara (Pakistan)

  Appr:  By heli from Pokhara
  Camps: BC(04/10,4650m),C1(08/10,5700m),C2(09/10,6450m),C3(10/10,7250m),xxx
  Left:  12/10/2019
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned at 7250m due to strong winds.

  Sadpara climbed Manaslu before and was well acclimatized. Strong winds on Dhaulagiri forced him to abandon climb at C3.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


  Atanas Skatov (Bulgaria)

  Appr:  Trekked via Marpha
  Camps: BC(15/09,4650m),C1(22/09,5700m),C2(23/09,6450m),C3(02/10,7250m),Smt(03/10)
  Left:  06/10/2019
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Summit by Skatov and Sanu Sherpa at 2:30 pm.

  Sanu and Skatov started from C3 at 7:30 pm. They did some rope fixing for 300m. Summited at 2:30 pm, then back to C3 at 6:30 pm. Very windy on summit ridge. Not so cold. Sanu Sherpa completed his 14x8000m.

  Oxygen: Not used by Sanu, used by Skatov from 7400m to summit and back to 7400m.

  Sherpa:
    Sanu Sherpa


  Josette Valloton (Switzerland)

  Appr:  Trekked via Marpha
  Camps: BC(15/10,4650m),C1(22/09,5700m),C2(6450m),C3(02/10,7250m),Smt(03/10)
  Left:  06/10/2019
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Summit by Valloton and Changba Sherpa at 1 pm.

  Between C1 and C3 a lot of snow. Started around 8:30 pm from C3, summited at 1 pm, down to C3 at 6:30 pm. It was windy when they started for summit, quite cold. Bad snow conditions, very dangerous in the traverse.

  Oxygen: Taken and used by Valloton and Sherpa from C3 to summit and down to C3.

  Fixed rope: Changba fixed some rope in the traverse.

  Sherpa:
    Changba Sherpa


expid: DHA119302
peakid: DHA1
year: 2019
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Carlos Soria
sponsor: Carlos Soria 2018 Dhaulagiri Expedition
approach: By heli from Pokhara
bcdate: 2019-09-18
smtdate: 2019-10-10
termdate: 2019-10-13
termnote: Abandoned at 7250m by due snow and wind conditions
campsites: BC(18/09,4650m),C1(27/09,5600m),C2(02/10,6550m),C3(10/10,7250m),xxx
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  18/09  4650m
  C1  27/09  5600m
  C2  02/10  6550m
  C3  10/10  7250m
  HPt 10/10  7250m by all members at C3.

  Climb abandoned on 11/10 due to snow, wind conditions.

  Spent night at C3. Wanted to summit that night, but was too windy. Went down to C1 on 11/10. On 12/10 to BC. Uxue all the way down to BC on 11/10. Team left BC on 13/10.

  Lakpa [Temba] and another Sherpa summitted a week before the team reached HPt as they fixed the ropes to the summit.

  Oxygen: taken, not used by members. 

  Hired:
    “Mikkel” Sherpa
    Lakpa Sherpa (S)
    Phurtenji Sherpa
    Mingma Sherpa
    Ang Dawa Sherpa


expid: DHA119304
peakid: DHA1
year: 2019
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Lakpa Sherpa, Chris Burke
sponsor: Expedition Base Dhaulagiri Expedition 2019
countries: Australia, S Africa
approach: Trekking via Marpha
bcdate: 2019-09-15
smtdate: 2019-10-10
termdate: 2019-10-13
termnote: Abandoned at 7350m due to strong winds
campsites: BC(15/09,4600m),C1(23/09,5800m),C2(02/10,6400m),C3(10/10,7300m),xxx
agency: Expedition Base (Snowy Horizon pmt)
routememo:
  BC  15/09
  C1  23/09
  C2  02/10
  C3  10/10
  HPt 10/10  at 7300m (C3) by McGill and Sherpas.

  Climb abandoned on 11/10 due to strong winds.

  Plan had been to summit on 11/10. Forecast was very wrong, forecasted little wind, but it was too dangerous, very cold temperatures, very windy.

  Teams discovered remains of two bodies near BC. May be the bodies of Romanian women who died in 1992.

  Left BC on 13/10.

  Oxygen: Taken and used by McGill in C3 during the night and down to C2.

  Hired:
    Jangbu Sherpa (C3)
    Pasang Sherpa (C3)


expid: DHA119305
peakid: DHA1
year: 2019
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Akira Saito
sponsor: 2019 Expedition Koriyama Rosan to Dhaulagiri
approach: Marpha by bus, trekked to BC
bcdate: 2019-09-17
smtdate: 2019-10-10
termdate: 2019-10-14
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to heavy winds
campsites: BC(17/09,4780m),C1(20/09,5750m),C2(24/09,6550m),C3(10/10,7300m),xxx
agency: Bochi Bochi Treks (Snowy Horizon pmt)
routememo:
  BC  17/09  4780m
  C1  20/09  5750m
  C2  24/09  6550m
  C3  10/10  7300m
  HPt:10/10  7300mb by both climbers and Sherpas

  Climb abandoned on 11 Oct due to heavy winds and might be heavy winds at the summit. Left C3 at 9-10 am on the 11 Oct. Back to BC at 6 pm.

  Left BC on 14 Oct by walking to Hidden Valley and camped; 15 Oct to Marpha.

  Oxygen: at C3 at night just to revive energy just to prepare for the 
          next day attack.

  Sherpas:
    Pema Chirring Sherpa, Makalu (Gaun Palika-1)
    Bikas Gurung, Bhot Khola-4, Makalu


expid: DHA119306
peakid: DHA1
year: 2019
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Greece
leaders: Antonios Sykaris
sponsor: Antonios Sykaris Dhaulagiri Expedition 2019
approach: Via Italian BC (Modi Khola)
bcdate: 2019-09-18
smtdate: 2019-10-03
termdate: 2019-10-12
termnote: Abandoned at 7870m due to route finding difficulty (went wrong way)
campsites: BC(18/09,4750m),C1(24/09,5750m),C2(30/09,6500m),C3(02/10,7250m),xxx(03/10,7870m)
agency: Pioneer Adventure
routememo:
  Team got to 7870m, but went the wrong way to get to the summit. Windy ,but clear weather.

  Oxygen: Sykaris used only one bottle after 7500m.


expid: EVER19191
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Brazil
leaders: Rodrigo Raineri
sponsor: Brazilian Everest Expedition 2019
smtdate: 2019-04-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m+ due to crevasse fall and illness
campsites: BC(5350m),C1(6100m),xxx(6200m)
accidents: Chies crevasse fall
agency: Himalayan Ski Trek pmt
routememo:
  Expedition terminated due to Chies crevasse fall above C1 on 30 April 30 and Raineri's subsequent pneumoniatwo weeks later.


expid: EVER19192
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Laxman Sapkota
sponsor: First Literary Mt. Everest Expedition 2019
bcdate: 2019-04-17
smtdate: 2019-05-16
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to Sherpa illness
campsites: BC(24/04,5350m),C1(26/04,6000m),C2(27/04,6500m),C3(14/05,7200m),C4(15/05,7935m),xxx(16/05,8300m)
agency: Happy Feet Mountaineers
routememo:
  Upreti and Jangbu Sherpa climbed to 8300m on 16 May, but turned back when Jangbu became ill with fever and cold.

  Sapkota went to 6300m on 26 April, then abandoned the expedition. Left BC by heli on 28 April.


expid: EVER19301
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Garrett Madison
sponsor: Madison Mountaineering Everest Expedition 2019 Autumn
countries: UK
approach: Lukla->Namche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-09-15
smtdate: 2019-09-18
termdate: 2019-10-06
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to overhanging serac in the icefall
campsites: BC(15/09),C1(18/09,5900m),xxx
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  15/09  5400m
  C1  18/09  5900m
  HPt 20/09  5900m at C1 by all Sherpas.

  Climb abandoned on 20/09 due to dangerous conditions (hanging serac).

  A lot of snow on the mountain, very difficult season. Members reached HPt at 5600m in the middle of the icefall. Stopped because of big serac hanging from Everest Shoulder. They were on the way to C1 when they decided to turn back. Feared the serac to collapse. Madison last one to stay in BC, flying back to KTM on 06/10. Other members leaving BC earlier. Sherpas high point at C1 (5900m).

  Oxygen: Taken, not used

  Fixed rope: Approximately 2000m

  Hired:
    Ang Phurba Sherpa (sirdar)
    Dorje Galzen Sherpa
    Pasdawa Sherpa
    Pasang Dawa Sherpa
    Phurba Ridar Bhote
    Lhakpa Bhote
    Dawa Nuppu Sherpa
    Sher Bahadur Thapa Magar
    Dawa Jangbu Sherpa
    Dawa Nurbu Sherpa
    Kam Dorje Sherpa


expid: EVER19302
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Andrzej Bargiel
sponsor: Everest Ski Challenge 2019
approach: Lukla->Namche->Everest BC
smtdate: 2019-09-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to overhanging serac in the icefall
campsites: BC(5350m),xxx(27/09,6000m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks (Himalayan Guides pmt)
routememo:
  High point (unsure of which date): time started at 6 am, reached high point before midday at 6000m by all 3 members.

  Last attempt climb abandoned on 27th Sept due to dangerous serac.

  Spent 3 weeks at BC, helped Madison with his team to fix rope.

  Two weeks ago viewed the serac; checked conditions everyday.

  Tried going Alpine style with his two members once. Then tried with Sherpas twice.
  Altogether tried 4 times to cross the ice fall. Last attempt on 27th Sept. Serac is about 50 mtrs height, 30 mtrs across, looked like it had moved 2/3 metres more. Too much risk.

  Note: Was helping rope fixing so never actually skied down any section of the route.


expid: EVER19303
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: Geneva Spur-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Kilian Jornet
sponsor: Summits Of My Life Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2019
approach: Lukla->Namche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-09-05
smtdate: 2019-10-04
termdate: 2019-10-06
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to bad weather and dangerous avalance conditions
campsites: BC(05/09,5200m),C1(30/09,6100m),C2(01/10,6400m),xxx(04/10,8300m)
agency: Everest Parivar (Himalayan Guides pmt)
routememo:
  From Kilian Jornet - 6 Oct 2019

  I was climbing at the big couloir left side of Geneva Spur, but too much snow so I decided to get to the southeast spur (I saw after it was where the Polish route from the 80's was) so I climbed some rock spurs and couloirs there to 8100m, where snow was to deep and then traverse flat contouring right towards normal route to see if it was less snow and avalanche risk, I got to normal route at 8200m, went up about 100m on the slope to the Balcony, but too wind affected so I turned down normal route to South Col, there it wasn’t to late so I went up to 8000m into the Geneva Spur to look the crossing to Lhotse under the pinnacles and the huge avalanche in Lhotse Face, and then dark I went down to South Col and down the couloir left of Geneva Spur to C2. I attached a picture of the track so you understand better, it wasn’t anything really interesting, but mostly a try to do some recce with bad conditions.

  Bad weather all September, serac above icefall [so expedition abandoned].


expid: EVER19304
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Rafal Fronia
sponsor: Polish Lhotse-Everest Expedition 2019
approach: Lukla->Namche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-09-07
smtdate: 2019-09-11
termdate: 2019-09-25
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due dangerous avalanche conditions
campsites: BC(07/09,5350m),xxx(11/09,6000m)
agency: Prestige Adventure
primid: LHOT19301
routememo:
  C1 site at 6000m reached by Rafal Fronia (attempting Everest) and Bartosz Ziemski, Wadim Jablonski, Mariusz Hatala, Piotr Krzyzowski and Oswald Rodrigo Perejra (attempting Lhotse).

  The Icefall was not ready. Not prepared by "Icefall Doctors" resulting it was too dangerous.

  The weather was ok. The problem was with "Icefall Doctors" responsible for fixing and prepering the way througth the Khumbu glacier. After reaching BC we were waiting for opening way to C1 and C2 what was contracted with our agent. Unfortunately there were only two Icefall Doctors and they did not do their work in reasonable time. Because of that we could not begin our climb in the higher part.


expid: EVER19401
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: Lho La-W Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Jost Kobusch
sponsor: Jost Kobusch Everest West Ridge Winter Expedition 2019-20
approach: Lukla->Namche->Island Peak->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-12-19
smtdate: 2020-02-24
termdate: 2020-03-01
campsites: BC(19/12,5250m),C1(29/12,6000m),C2(20/02,6400m),C3(22/02,6700m),xxx(24/02,7366m)
agency: Satori Adventures
termnote:
  Abandoned at 7366m due to difficult conditions and attaining objective of reaching 7200m in his first winter 8000er attempt.

othersmts:
  Climbed Amotsang (24 Oct), Chulu Far East (1 Nov), Peak 5794m (17 Nov), Parchermo (22 Nov) and Island Peak (16 Dec)

routememo:
  Route: West Ridge via Lho La from south EBC. New variants on Lho La to SW Face, and West Shoulder to NW Face.  

  High point on Everest:
    Jost Kobusch to West Shoulder.
    Daniel Hug to C1 (he also climbed IMJA with Jost Kobusch for acclimatization). 

  • 1st attempt:

  Within a few weeks, Kobusch studied various options to climb the Lho La SW Face. First intended to use the Yugoslavian left-side line, which at first he thought to be more stable, but this option was hit by a massiv rock avalanche in front of his eyes! Coming closer to the wall, he eventually changed his plan for the other option on the right side of the central couloir collecting most avalanches (historical route of 1955, and the 1974 French attempt). Glacier ramp (1) would happen to be an “easy” climbing solution, but equipment there would be systematically destroyed by the always collapsing glacier.

  Eventually Kobusch would find a line left to the glacier ramp (2). He would fix 3 pitches of rock climbing, using the shelter of a slightly overhanging protection in the lower section.

  28 Dec: Hug joined Kobusch for Lho La climb, in order to shoot some images for the documentary there. They found some hard ice and deep snow during the climb. Belaying Hug took also time, with Kobusch carrying all the equipment himself. Eventually taking more time than first expected, the duet had to bivouac in a crevasse halfway up.

  29 Dec: reached Lho La quite early, where would have first sleep. Team took lots of images. On that evening, Kobusch reached a point at 6180m (A), just at the beginning of the face on the 1974 French attempt (right side of the West Shoulder face). The bergschrund here gave him no chance go proceed further.

  30 Dec: duet went back down to BC. Hug had to rest since he had been really stressed by the climb. Celebrated new year the day after. 

  Scheduled for the helicopter to come at beginning of January for a photo-shooting session.

  • 2nd attempt:

  16 Jan: Kobusch went back up to Lho La/C1.
  17 Jan: had a rest day.
  18 Jan: Kobusch wanted to try an other option on the far right side of the West Shoulder NW face (properly on the SW Face of the West shoulder). Reached a point at 6360m in that difficult traverse (B), where he met bad climbing conditions (blue ice covered with sugar snow). Slept at C1. On that same day, Hug was shooting from the helicopter; on that day he would go back straight to Lukla, then to Ktmdu and Germany. 
  19 Jan: Kobusch went back to BC. 
  20 Jan: when he woke up at BC, he couldn't walk! Had he torn something? Contacted a physiotherapist. At that stage, considered finishing the expedition if not possible to walk again (with rescue evacuation from BC). However pain decreased a few days later. Felt still that something was wrong, despite nobody ever knew what it was. Decided to give a try up if not too painfull, at least to remove his C1 gear. 

  • 3rd attempt:

  06 Feb: discovered that the previously established route to Lho La had collapsed again. Having not enough equipment left now, him considered to rappel from the top to equip the route, after free soloing on the way up. Kobusch changed the route for an attack “straight up” (3), going between his prior routes (2 and 1). Wasn't sure to be able to free solo the new rock section next to the glacier ramp, which happened to make a tough climb. Left to this section he would find some remnants of aluminium ladders and 3 old good quality pitons (him removed the damaged wire ladder and brought it back to Ktmdu). Then he traversed rightwards to access a little down the glacier ramp. With this new line, Kobusch thought it would be the best way to reduce the risk. 

  11 Feb: back to Lho La.
  12 Feb: this time choose to traverse towards the left side of the NW Face of the W Shoulder (C). Crossed the bergschrund, climbing from now in Chinese territory (from that stage, he switched off his device, fearing a possible Chinese reaction with political issue – however 1 dot remains visible on his tracking). Eventually made a 17h non-stop climbing day in demanding conditions (blue ice), similar in comitment to the traverse of the second attempt. After he had reached 6500m he went back down to C1 for sleeping. 
  13 Feb: rest day. 
  14 Feb: went back to BC. 

  • 4th attempt:

  19 Feb: back to Lho La.
  20 Feb: established a C2 on chinese side at 6400m (not on the map, since had switched off again the GPS device). 
  21 Feb: pitched a C3 in the W Shoulder NW Face far left side. 
  22 Feb: moved his C3 from 6600m to 6700m for a better settlment allowing to hammer a deep ledge into the ice for his tent. 
  23 Feb: had rest day
  24 Feb: reached the top of the West Shoulder at 7366m (GPS measurement) at circa 5 pm. Him had planned to reach 7200m for his first winter experience on 8000ers : objective was fulfilled and it was now late. Went back down to C3 for sleeping. 
  25 Feb: downwards. Slept in Lho La vicinity since had lost the way in snow fall. 
  26 Feb: slept in proper C1 of Lho La, bad weather not allowing to go back down on this day. 
  27 Feb: back to BC. On that day, triggered 2 avalanches intentionally to clear the route, but got caught by a third one while rappeling the final rock part. 
  On this day he had ran out of supplies. Expedition was finished. 


expid: EVER19402
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Alex Chicon (Alex Txikon)
sponsor: Outware Alex Txikon Winter Everest Expedition 2020
smtdate: 2020-02-27
termnote: Abandoned at 7150m due to dangerous conditions on the Lhotse face
campsites: BC,C1,C2,xxx(27/02,7150m)
agency: Outware Treks
routememo:
  7150m on Everest reached Lama Perchamba Sherpa (brother of Muktu who used to climb with Carlos Soria) and [Chhitjee] Norbu Sherpa and Txikon.


expid: EVER20102
peakid: EVER
year: 2020
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Ci Luo (Tselo)
sponsor: Chinese Mount Everest Survey Team
smtdate: 2020-05-27
smttime: 0945
campsites: BC,ABC,C1,C2,C3,Smt(27/05)
routememo:
  From www.mt8848.com:

  The 2020 Mount Everest survey team completed the peak survey task.

  At 11:00 on May 27th, the 8 final summit members of the 2020 Mount Everest surveying team fell second, Yuan Fudong, Li Fuqing, Pubu Dhondup, Tsering Dorji, Tsering Phuntsok, Tsering Luobu, and Lausanne Dhondup successfully reached the summit. peak, and then perform the peak measurement. After staying at the peak for 2 hours and 30 minutes, the team members completed all the peak measurement tasks and began to descend at 13:30.

  It took 9 hours to reach the summit.

  At 1:00 on May 27th, the eight top players got up and started to prepare breakfast and pack their equipment. At 2:10, the team members set off from the assault camp at an altitude of 8300 meters after putting on crampons. The command tent of Mount Everest Base Camp was brightly lit all night. Wang Yongfeng, the commander-in-chief of the 2020 Mount Everest Survey Mountaineering Frontline Command, the captain of the Chinese mountaineering team, and several deputy commanders and consultants of the frontline command kept in touch with the front-end team members through the telephone.

  At about 8 o'clock, the team members climbed the "Chinese Ladder" and passed the "Second Step". The "Second Step" is located between 8680 meters above sea level and 8700 meters above sea level on Mount Everest. There is a nearly upright cliff of about 4 meters without any fulcrum to climb. This is the last difficulty on the traditional route.


expid: EVER20103
peakid: EVER
year: 2020
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Tsering Samdrup
sponsor: Holy Mountain Adventure Everest Expedition 2020
approach: Lhasa->Tingri->Everest BC
bcdate: 2020-04-23
smtdate: 2020-05-28
smttime: 0545
termdate: 2020-05-31
agency: Holy Mountain Adventure
campsites:
  BC(23/04,5200m),IC(26/04,5800m),ABC(05/01,6500m),C1(25/05,7028m),C2(26/05,7790m),C3(27/05,8300m),Smt(28/05)

routememo:
  Expedition Itinerary:

  23 Apr, arrived at the Everest Base Camp at 5200m. 

  26 Apr, went to intermediate camp at 5800m and returned to the base camp.

  28 Apr-01 May, went to the intermediate camp and to ABC at 6500m and then higher to 6600m for training.

  02 May, withdrew from ABC to base camp to rest.

  06 May-11 May, returned to ABC to further acclimatize.

  12 May, climbed a nearby 7018m peak on the way back down to base camp.

  13 May, returned to BC.

  14 May, members returned to Shigatse for rest.

  19 May, arrived at Everest Base Camp again.

  20 May, members went to intermediate camp at 5800m. 

  22 May, members reached ABC, waiting for the weather window period.
                  
  25 May, went to C1 at 7028m.

  26 May, went to C2 at 7790m.

  27 May, went to C3 to 8300m.

  28 May, summited.


expid: GANG19301
peakid: GANG
year: 2019
route1: N side (Korean rte)
nation: Italy
leaders: Ernesto Macera Mascitelli
sponsor: Italian Gangapurna Expedition 2019
approach: Manang Valley
termnote: Abandoned due to dangerous avalanches
othersmts: Climbed Pisang Peak (13 Nov) and Chulu (21 Nov)
campsites: BC(4600m),xxx
agency: Himalayan Adventure Sports
routememo:
  A reaching base camp, a huge avalanche hit the climbing route foreclosing any chances of summit Gangapurna.


expid: GANW19301
peakid: GANW
year: 2019
route1: SE Spur (2016 Korean rte)
nation: USA
leaders: Jason Kolaczkowski
sponsor: American Gangapurna West Expedition 2019
approach: Fly to Pokhara, vehicle to Gandruk, trek to BC
bcdate: 2019-10-19
smtdate: 2019-10-29
termdate: 2019-11-04
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due injury, illness and lack of sleep
campsites: BC(19/10,4020m),C1(22/10,5000m),C2(25/10,5600m),C3(29/10,6200m),xxx
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Approach: Fly to Pokhara, vehicle to Gandruk, south, trek in pass Machh BC normal path to Machhapuchhare BC, head north up the east fork to the Annapurna Gglacier (following the S Korean team of 2016).

  From basecamp to C1 was the most dangerous part of the climb. Rockfall was a considerable danger by any standards. C1 to C2 was not quite as dangerous, but still bare and with considerable rockfall. I was hit by rock on 4 occasions over the course of the climb. One could have been severe. Weather was clear and calm for the duration. Snow conditions on the upper moutain (snow line beginning at C2) were stable with significant freezeing/thawing.

  Rope-fixing:

  4 sections, each about 200m in length
  4200m to 4400m at entrance gully from the moraine; 3 x 200m sections between C1 and C2.


expid: HIML19301
peakid: HIML
year: 2019
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Ulrich Meyer
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Himlung Himal Expedition 2019
countries: Germany
approach: Trek via Koto and Phu to BC
bcdate: 2019-09-14
smtdate: 2019-09-26
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2019-09-29
campsites: BC(14/09,4850m),C1(20/09,5460m),C2(25/09,6060m),Smt(26/09)
agency: Himalaya Vision
routememo:
  BC  14/09  4850m
  C1  20/09  5460m
  C2  25/09  6060m
  Smt 26/09  by Markus Raess, Catrina Vaterlaus, Daniel Muenger, Mingma Sherpa, 
             Pasang Sherpa.

  Summit party started at 0:30 am from C2 for summit. Dawa with Erwin Goergen and Helmut Stadtmueller turned back at 6300m. They felt weak and low on energy. Summiters on summit at 2 pm. Back to C2 at 6 pm. Summit day quite cloudy, only in the morning some good views.

  Schikarski reached C1, but didn’t feel well and turned back. Urs Muenger had a headache and only reached C2. Falkner and Meyer C2 high point, they went down with Urs Muenger and Schikarski.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken for emergency
    Used by Urs Muenger for 10 minutes in C2; not used by the rest.

  Hired: 
    Mingma Sherpa (S)
    Pasang Sherpa (S)
    Dawa Sherpa (6300m)


expid: HIML19302
peakid: HIML
year: 2019
route1: NW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Diahanne Gilbert
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Himlung Himal Expedition 2019
countries: Romania
approach: Besisahar->Koto->Meta->Phu
bcdate: 2019-10-20
smtdate: 2019-10-31
smttime: 1100
campsites: BC(20/10),C1(24/10),C2(25/10),Smt(31/10)
agency: Makalu Adventure
routememo:
  Summit team left high camp at 2:30 am, summited at 11 am, stayed 30 minutes, then descended to C2 (Danila and Bire Tamang at 14:30) or C1 (Gilbert and Phu Rinji at 16:30).

  Hicks arrived at BC with stomach bug that never improved.

  Griffin left team at Koto for personal reasons.


expid: HIML19307
peakid: HIML
year: 2019
route1: NW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Yves Salino
sponsor: Ticino International Himlung Himal Expedition 2019
countries: Australia, Canada
approach: Besisahar->Dharapani->Koto->Meta->Phu->BC
bcdate: 2019-10-18
smtdate: 2019-10-27
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2019-10-30
campsites: BC(18/10,4900m),C1(23/10,5400m),C2(25/10,6150m),C3(26/10,6338m),Smt(27/10)
agency: Ticino Treks
routememo:
  Schedule: 

  13/10: reached Koto by bus and jeep over 2 days; from there at 2600m started the
         approach march.

  14/10: slept at Meta, 3560m.

  15/10: slept at Kyang, 3840m.

  16/10: slept at Phu Gaon, 3900m.

  17/10: acclimatization day on a 4800m peak located above Phu, slept again at Phu. 

  18/10: up to 4900 base camp (Kari Kobler's). Chose this BC option instead of 
         "French BC" located further behind a long moraine that is tedious to cross.
   
  19/10: rest day at BC, with a Lama's celebration.

  20/10: rest day at BC.

  21/10: fixed C1 at 5400m, back to BC.

  22/10: rest day; Salino had a crevasse rescue training session with Sherpas.

  23/10: up to C1.

  24/10: rest day at C1.

  25/10: up to C2, where group slept. There Glenn Johnson got some heart palpitations, so decided to stop at this stage of the route. Daniel Puttkemery, not giving much importance to reach summit (could have done it according to Salino), prefered to come down on next day with Johnson.

  26/10: up to C3 (located on the ridge), where Yves Salino and Ilyas Kanann stayed, with 2 Sherpas, Furte and Ngima Tenzing. On that same day, Johnson and Puttkemery went down to BC accompanied by Dawa Sangye Sherpa.  

  27/10: C3 to summit to C3. The 2 members and 2 hired which slept at C3 started later than other teams at 10 am on that day, this to wait for wind to decrease and to avoid night coldness. Summit at 4 pm in normal conditions, no wind no cold. Stayed about 30 min on top, taking many pictures, talking by radio with BC. Back to C3 at 8 pm at night.

  Salino considers considered that they took the right option by putting a C3 (when other teams didn't), since he doesn't believe they could have reached C2 on that day. However he doesn't think an additional C4 to be a usefull option (too high).  

  28/10: C3 to BC, reached at 8 pm. Hard day again, with bags full of all personal gear, Sherpas carrying the tents. Moraine traverse very hard.  

  29/10: rest at BC.

  30-31/10: back to Koto over 2 days of walk.

  Salino was back in Nepal this fall a long time after he had first been here in the 1990's. He was positively surprised by the overall improvement of organization.


expid: HIML19308
peakid: HIML
year: 2019
route1: NW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Emma Livingston-Jones
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Himlung Himal Expedition 2019
countries: Austria, France, Germany, Poland, Spain, Switzerland
approach: Besisahar->Dharapani->Koto->Meta->Phu->BC
bcdate: 2019-10-18
smtdate: 2019-10-30
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2019-11-02
campsites: BC(18/10,4900m),C1(24/10,5450m),C2(25/10,6000m),Smt(30/10)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  18/10  4900m
  C1  24/10  5450m
  C2  25/10  6000m
  C3  29/10  6300m (just rested before summit push)
  Smt 30/10  by 9 members between 6:30-7 am.

  Started around midnight of the night of 29th going into 30th Oct. Weather was relatively good, cold not windy. Snow was fine. In general an easy climb, path clear. Spent 5 mintues on summit. On descent slept at C2 on 30 Oct. Back to BC on 31 Oct. Left BC on 2 Nov,  w alked to Phu, etc, drove to Besisahar.

  Oxygen: None

  Sherpas:
    9 above BC
    Dawa [Tenji] Sherpa (with Livingston-Jones)

  4 team members (Spanish + Polish) did not use Sherpas; only 2 out of the 4 summitted, but the Sherpas went up to summit anyway + were helping fix ropes ahead.

  French couple did not: Helene Saumade got up to C2, but Jean-Pierre Rogdriguez did not even make it to C1.

  Stefan Wonde (Germany) was heli’d out from C1 because he tripped between C1 and C2 and injured his leg.

  Alina Weber (Poland) did not summit + walked a couple of hours above C3 + turned back.

  Monica Cardena (Spain) tried for a summit push twice a couple of days before the rest, + tried again the day after the rest of the team, but due to bad weather turned back around C3 before the fixed ropes).


expid: HIML19309
peakid: HIML
year: 2019
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Andrew Lock
sponsor: Happy Feet Himlung Himal Expedition 2019
countries: Canada
approach: Besisahar->Dharapani->Koto->Meta->Phu->BC
bcdate: 2019-10-22
smtdate: 2019-11-04
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2019-11-07
campsites: BC(22/10,4800m),C1(27/10,5440m),C2(29/10,6000m),C3(03/11,6250m),Smt(04/11)
agency: Happy Feet Mountaineers
routememo:
  Summit team left C3 at 12:30 am, summited at 9 am, stayed 15 minutes, then descended to C3 by mid-day. Very windy conditions.


expid: HIML19312
peakid: HIML
year: 2019
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Israel
leaders: Ilan Buskila
sponsor: Ilan Himlung Himal Expedition 2019
approach: Besisahar->Dharapani->Koto->Meta->Phu->BC
bcdate: 2019-10-07
smtdate: 2019-10-14
termdate: 2019-10-16
termnote: Abandoned at 6250m due to loss of appetite and lack of fitness
campsites: BC(07/10,4850m),C1(10/10,5457m),C2(12/10,6056m),C3(13/10,6183m),xxx(14/10,6250m)
agency: Himalayan Ecstasy Treks (Snowy Horizon pmt)
routememo:
  BC  07/10  4850m
  C1  10/10  5457m
  C2  12/10  6056m
  C3  13/10  6183m
  HPt 14/10  6250m at night by Bukila, Sonam Lhakpa and Keshab Magar.

  Climb abandoned on 14 Oct night due to two main reasons: lack of sufficient fitness and loss of appetite (he did not eat at least for 8 days).

  Left BC on 16 October.

  Sherpas above BC: 2

  Fixed rope: There were already fixed ropes 300m from C3 to the summit.

  Oxygen: Buskila used from C2 to C3 and the way down.

  Wonderful weather throughout the whole time on the way up and on the way down.


expid: HIML19313
peakid: HIML
year: 2019
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Fernando Sanchez Grassa
sponsor: Spanish Himlung Himal Expedition 2019
approach: Besisahar->Dharapani->Koto->Meta->Phu->BC
bcdate: 2019-10-07
smtdate: 2019-11-01
termdate: 2019-11-03
campsites: BC(4850m),C1(5600m),C2(6000m),Smt(01/11)
agency: Imagine Nepal pmt
routememo:
  From The Himalayan Times, 2 Nov 2019
  Rajan Pokhrel

  According to the base camp officials, Fernando Sanchez Grassa breathed his last above Camp III on Himlung when he along with two other climbers was returning from the summit point last night.

  Fernando (44), one of the renowned mountain guides, was a part of an eight-member expedition, the officials said, adding that Fernando and twin brothers – Juan Carlos Del Cerro Millan and Jesus Del Cero Millan – reached the summit point of the 7126-metre mountain on Friday afternoon. Other five members of the expedition had abandoned their bid, the officials added.

  Fernando complained of snow blindness while descending from the summit point, according to officials. “Three climbers scaled the mountain in an alpine style.”  Efforts were underway to recover his body from Camp III, they added. The twin brothers have already descended to the base camp.


  Notes from Di Gilbert - 16 Jan 2020

  About Jesus, Carlos and Fernando:

  I first saw them on 31 October as I was leaving Camp 2 for Camp 1 after my summit bid. They were on the way up the mountain for their summit bid. They would arrived in Camp 2 late in the afternoon, maybe a couple of hours before the sun set. I hadn’t met them before. As we passed we had polite conversation - they asked if we had summited, I replied yes. They congratulated us and I wished them best for their summit bid. I didn’t think anything about it but only realised afterwards that this was the Spanish team.

  We returned to Base Camp 1st November.

  The first I knew something happened was when somebody said that someone had died on the mountain. Normal situation occurred - lots of speculation, gossip, etc. - and I kept out of it. I think Jesus returned back to base camp 2 November and I remember going up to him (there were loads of people around him) and just saying that if he needed me to help in any way, just let me know. I pointed out my camp and then left the group of people.

  Most teams had already departed the mountain or were in the throws of packing up.

  It was only on the morning of the 3 November when I discovered that 2 of my Sherpa’s were planning to back up the mountain to retrieve equipment for the Spanish team that I became involved.

  I sat down with Jesus and Maria (my Romanian team member who spoke far better Spanish than me - Jesus spoke absolutely no English or Nepali). We probably spent about an hour together trying to piece to gather what happened.

  I was led to believe that there were 2 brothers, Jesus and Carlos, and their Guide Fernando. They had previously been on Himlung roughly 15 years ago and decided to return. They were all close friends who had spent many expeditions/climbing together. They had no Sherpa support and were just using base camp services.

  They arrived at Camp 2 all together.

  The following morning, 1 November, it was very very cold and they did not leave until the late morning, after the sun had warmed up the tent.

  For info: we left at 02:30 and summited 11:00/11:30 from Camp 2. It was brutally cold.

  They travelled together to where Camp 3 was (the bottom of the steeper fixed lines), but this is where Jesus turned around because it was too cold. Carlos and Fernando continued to the summit. Fernando arrived at the summit first and apparently waited their for one hour before Carlos. They were under head torch at this stage. Goggles were on.

  They left together, but Fernando started to struggle and it sounds that Carlos had to basically drag him down the mountain. Apparently Carlos was complaining about his eyes (or that is what I got the impression it was).

  Fernando kept saying to leave him and for Carlos to get off the mountain.

  Approx 100m up from the bottom of the steeper fixed lines, Carlo attached Fernando to the mountain about 50m off the fixed ropes with snow stakes. Fernando had told Carlos that when he died he wanted to be left on the mountain.

  I don’t know if Fernando had actually passed away before Carlos left him.

  Carlos returned to Camp 2 for the night. Jesus returned to base camp to raise the alarm.

  After speaking to Jesus and getting as much info as possible, 2 of my Sherpa’s returned to Camp 2 to help Carlos down and remove equipment.

  Carlos walked unassisted into base camp. I met with Carlos at base camp - he spoke no English. I checked his feet and hands (much speculation about frostbite) and carried out some basic first aid. He was obviously very distraught.

  People made lots of comments how they never had good equipment. They were dressed in older style mountain clothing, but nothing worse than Sherpas. They did not have down suits - but most people didn’t. I don’t think I saw any big down jackets when I was helping them sort our their bags for the helicopter.

  The helicopter arrived later during the day (3rd) where they were flown to KTM.


expid: HIML19314
peakid: HIML
year: 2019
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Norway
leaders: Monica Hundseid
sponsor: Norwegian Himlung Himal Expedition 2019
approach: Besisahar->Dharapani->Koto->Meta->Phu->BC
bcdate: 2019-10-16
smtdate: 2019-10-23
smttime: 0815
termdate: 2019-10-24
campsites: BC(16/10,4800m),C1(18/10,540m),C2(22/10,6200m),Smt(23/10)
achievment: 1st Norwegians to summit Himlung
agency: Pioneer Adventure (Ticino Treks pmt)
routememo:
  Hundseid-Rotterud report:

  BC  16/10  4800m
  C1  18/10  5400m (21/10 for summit push)
  C2  22/10  6200m (rested 5 hrs)
  Smt 23r10  by Hundseid, Rotterud and two Sherpas at 8:15 am.

  Summit team started at 11 pm on 22 Oct. Normal conditions. Got windy, -40, 15m/sec.
  Summited at 8:15, stayed 2 minutes. Descended to C2 and then descended to BC Asap because not enough supplies and tired and cold. Back to BC at 7 pm.

  Only ones summitted that day because weather turned bad.

  Left BC on 24th Oct, trekked down to Koto.

  Oxygen:
    Roetterud had diarrhea so had to take O2 from C3 (6300m) to summit, 
     then took it off
    Hundseid, no oxygen.

  Sherpas:
    Lakpa Sherpa of Pioneer (Rotterud)
    Tsering Pemba Sherpa (Hundseid)


expid: HNKU19301
peakid: HNKU
year: 2019
route1: SW Ridge-S Ridge (up), WNW Ridge (down)
nation: Germany
leaders: Luis Stitzinger
sponsor: German Hongku Chuli Peak Expedition 2019
approach: Heli to Yangle Kharka->East Col->West Col->Seto Pokhari->Hongku Chuli BC
bcdate: 2019-10-21
smtdate: 2019-10-29
termdate: 2019-10-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6554m due to client fatigue and length of exposed ridge
campsites: BC(21/10,5150m),ABC(23/10,5600m),C1(28/10,6480m),xxx(29/10,6554m)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  6554m reached by Manuel Moeller and Luis Stitzinger. 

  Climb abandoned because ridge too long, Moeller suffered from fatigue 300m below the summit.

  400m snow/ice face to a broad Col, very exposed snow ridge with several gendarmes and occasional rock sections (12-15 pitches) up to highpoint (difficulties ZS+).

  Manuel Moeller was a private client of Luis Stitzinger.


expid: HONK19301
peakid: HONK
year: 2019
route1: E Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiroki Nakayama
sponsor: Sherpa-Japanese the First Ascent Hongu Expedition 2019
ascent1: 2nd
approach: Lukla->Baruntse BC
bcdate: 2019-10-20
smtdate: 2019-10-25
smttime: 1530
termdate: 2019-10-27
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak
campsites: BC(20/10,5400m),C1(22/10,6100m),C2(23/10,6200m),C3(24/10,6300m),Smt(25/10)
agency: Alpine Outdoors
routememo:
  Nakayama and Pemba Ongchhu Sherpa left C3 at 6 am on 25 Oct, summited at 15:30 pm, stayed 10 minutes, the dsecended to C3 at 8 pm.

  Windy, sometimes snowy, not very cold, sugary snow on the face. Ice was also soft and lots of air inside, thus hard to use ice screws.


  From Lindsay Griffin:

  Pemba Sherpa and Hiroki Nakayama (Japan) approached Hongu (6764m) in October via the Hinku and Hongu valleys. Base camp and Camp 1 were in identical locations to the same camps used to climb Baruntse. The pair then crossed the West Col, south of Baruntse, descended the top section of the West Barun Glacier (aka Lower Barun Glacier), entered the glacier bay on the right, and made their final camp (Camp 3) at around 6360m immediately below the northeast face of Hongu. The final 350m is a steep snow and ice wall with serac barriers. The pair left the top camp on October 25 with minimal gear and, alternating leads, climbed nine pitches (70m rope). Some of the ground was very steep and the ice was like sugar. In strong wind and snow they reached the top at 3:15 pm. and after only 10 minutes began a rappel descent. They used snow stakes for most anchors, but when these ran out were forced to abandon an ice screw and Nakayama's Nomic axe. They regained camp at 8:30 pm.


expid: KTEG19301
peakid: KTEG
year: 2019
route1: E Face-S Ridge-W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiroyuki Kuraoka
sponsor: Mountain Experience Kantega Expedition 2019
approach: Luklu to Kote by heli, trek to BC via Khare
bcdate: 2019-10-12
smtdate: 2019-10-18
smttime: 1515
termdate: 2019-10-20
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak
campsites: BC(12/10,5088m),C1(16/10,5735m),C2(17/10,6100m),Smt(18/10)
achievment: Possibly new route; possibly first Japanese on KTEG main summit
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  BC  12/10  5088m on side moraine of Kangtega Glacier
  C1  16/10  5735m on snow plateau at the start of ramp
  C2  17/10  6100m on large snow mushroom in the ramp
  Smt 18/10  by both members, both Sherpas 

  They had planned to climb via huge icefall on E side, but not possible. Sherpas tried for 2 days to find a route. They prepared 2km of fixed rope through icefall. Sherpa said it’s easy in icefall. But a lot of ice blocks falling down, so members decided too dangerous. Then found possible line on snow ramp on E Face.

  C1 on snow plateau on 5735m. From C1 over snow ramp. Ramp above seracs, through hanging glacier. After the ramp they gained the wide snowy plateau on S side of Kangtega. C2 at 6100m on big snow mushroom in the ramp shortly before gaining plateau.

  Sugar snow conditions, very dangerous from C2 to the plateau. They had spent almost all ropes in icefall. Members roped up with Sherpas ascending the ramp, some parts were jumared up a fixed rope.

  Two steep pitches on last part of S Face. They used ice screws for protection in blue ice. Steepest part maybe 85°, shortly overhanging, but not long. Nice summit day, weather good, sunny. Sherpa by accident dropped a rope on plateau just below summit. Only 3 snow bars and 1 rope left for final summit ridge.
    
  Team on summit at 3:15 pm. They started from C2 at 3:30 am. Back to C2 after summit at 8 pm. Descent on same way as ascent. C2 in same location. From C2 all the way to BC.

  1979 Japanese KTEG team only to false summit according to Hiro. They had climbed a route in N Face, but not to main summit, but only to false summit (6685m). Other mountaineers from same mountain club say nobody from Japan ever climbed KTEG before. This would make them first Japanese to ascend KTEG.

  Left BC on 20/10, returned on 22/10 by heli from Khare-Lukla-KTM.

  Fixed rope: intermittently in ramp and steep part in S Face.

  Oxygen: not taken, not used

  Climbing route: East Face, South Ridge, final meters on W Ridge

  Other peaks:  Mera Peak for acclimatization 

  Hired: 
    Sonam Wangdi Sherpa (S)
    Phura Namgyal Sherpa (S)


expid: LHOT19301
peakid: LHOT
year: 2019
route1: W Face
nation: Poland
leaders: Marcin Kaczkan
sponsor: Polish Lhotse-Everest Expedition 2019
approach: Lukla->Namche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-09-07
smtdate: 2019-09-11
termdate: 2019-09-25
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due dangerous avalanche conditions and lake of fixed route through Icefall
campsites: BC(07/09,5300m),xxx(11/09,6000m)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  C1 site at 6000m reached by Rafal Fronia (attempting Everest), Bartosz Ziemski, Wadim Jablonski, Mariusz Hatala, Piotr Krzyzowski and Oswald Rodrigo Perejra.

  The Icefall was not ready. Not prepared by "Icefall Doctors" resulting it was too dangerous.

  The weather was ok. The problem was with "Icefall Doctors" responsible for fixing and prepering the way througth the Khumbu glacier. After reaching BC we were waiting for opening way to C1 and C2 what was contracted with our agent. Unfortunately there were only two Icefall Doctors and they did not do their work in reasonable time. Because of that we could not begin our climb in the higher part.


expid: LIK219301
peakid: LIK2
year: 2019
route1: W Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Ada Tsang
sponsor: LalaMove Virgin Peak Expedition 2019
countries: Mexico, Nepal, Peru
approach: Jagat->Simigaon->Beding->Na->BC
bcdate: 2019-10-24
smtdate: 2019-10-28
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2019-10-29
campsites: BC(24/10,4700m),C1(27/10,5700m),Smt(28/10)
agency: Sherpa Shepherds
routememo:
  Plan: Attempting 1st ascent of a peak named by the government as “Linku Chuli 2 West”, north of Tsho Rolpa Lake in Rolwaling Himal (6659m).


  Zhang quit at the beginning of the glacier at 4700m before reaching BC due to the difficulty of the trekking into BC. 

  The other 7 climbers left BC at 12 pm on 27 Oct, the weather was good and sunny. They arrived high camp at 4 pm  and had rest there until midnight, then they started at 1 am for the summit push. All of them summited at 10 am on 28 Oct. The weather was good and bit windy. It was very difficult climbing process. They used jumars all the time and the ice walls on the way were very steep; the routes were full of rocks and blue ice mostly. 6 climbers descended to BC at 6-8 pm on 28 oct; one Maxican female climber stayed at high camp due to being over exhausted .She came back at 10 am in the next day morning. All safe and smooth.


expid: LUGU19301
peakid: LUGU
year: 2019
route1: NW Ridge from N
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
sponsor: Paulo Grobel Lugula Expedition 2019
countries: Italy, Netherlands
approach: Besisahar->Phu_>Bhrikuti Shail BC
bcdate: 2019-09-24
smtdate: 2019-10-05
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2019-10-11
othersmts: Summited Julie Himal (6337m), Shelka Kangri (6358m) and Bhrikuti Shail (BHRS-193-01)
campsites: BC(24/09,5000m),C1(28/09,5640m),C2(01/10,6200m),C3(04/10,6350m),Smt(05-06/10)
agency: Himalayan Travellers Nepal
routememo:
  BC  24/09  5000m (Bhrikuti Shail BC)
  C1  28/09  5640m (Bhrikuti Shail High BC)
  C2  01/10  6200m (at Tirhawa La)
  C3  04/10  6350m (on glacier called "Minerva Snowfield" by Koreans in 2014)
  Smt 05/10  
      06/10  (see details below).

  Team first planned to climb Lugula from Damodar Kunda lakes in Mustang, then to carry on with the Bhrikuti traverse. Following a ministry of interior decision to add trekking permit cost to mountaineering expeditions in restricted areas, team changed its plans to climb Lugula from Phu side, climbing at first Bhrikuti Shail. Despite bad weather conditions, the team achieved both at separate periods, this through NW Ridge (located in Chinese territory). In addition, several different teams climbed other peaks surrounding.

  Team left BC on 11 Oct (members left BC on 6, 9 and 11 Oct).

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used

  Summit (Lugula):

    5 Oct: Isabelle Guillaume, Luc Gianetti, Philippe Henry, Paulo Grobel, 
           Dipen Bhote and Sajjan Gale.

    6 Oct: Reinier Zuidhoff, Folkert Bloembergen, Menno Frantzen, Marjolein Meere,
           Jean-Pierre Desforges and Sergio de Leo along with Dhan Magar, Karma 
           Sherpa, Dipen Bhote, Sonam Sherpa and Amrit Tamang.

    6 Oct: attempt of the full NW Ridge up to c.6600m, reached from a lower C3 by
           Isabelle Guillaume and Paulo Grobel. Duet intended a traverse, down by 
           SW Ridge. Members back to BC between 5 and 9 of Oct.

  Summit (Julie Himal) by E Ridge:

    2 Oct: by Hugues de Varax, Paulo Grobel, Philippe Henry, Stanislas Fouquier 
           and Karma Sherpa.

    4 Oct: by Sergio de Leo and Karma Sherpa.

  Summit (Shelka Kangri), first ascent via Julie Himal's traverse, then E Ridge:

    4 Oct: by Sergio de Leo and Karma Sherpa.

  Summit (Bhrikuti Shail): by southern slopes to the col, then SW Ridge:

    1 Oct: Isabelle Guillaume, Luc Gianetti and Paulo Grobel.

    4 Oct: Reinier Zuidhoff, Folkert Bloembergen, Menno Frantzen and Marjolein 
           Meere.

    5 Oct: Philippe Cholat-Namy, Hugues De Varax, Stanislas Fouquier and Dorje Bhote.

    8 Oct: Traverse by northeast slopes from Minerva glacier up, down by SE Ridge
           by Isabelle Guillaume, Paulo Grobel, Dipen Bhote and Anil Rai.

achievment:
  1st ascent of Selka Kangri, 1st ascent of Lugula NW Ridge, 1st traverse of Bhrikuti Shail (up by NE Cwm, down by SE Ridge).


expid: MAKA19301
peakid: MAKA
year: 2019
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
route2: SW Face
nation: France
leaders: Franck Candelier
sponsor: Expedition Himalaya Makalu Expedition 2019
countries: Japan, New Zealand
approach: Lukla->Mera La->Sherpani Col->Makalu ABC (gear via Tumlingtar->Makalu ABC)
bcdate: 2019-09-17
smtdate: 2019-10-06
termdate: 2019-10-09
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to slab avalanche danger
campsites: ABC(17/09,5700m),C1(21/09,6300m),C2(26/09,6640),xxx(06/10,7200m)
agency: Expedition Himalaya
routememo:
  ABC 17/09  5700m
  C1  21/09  6300m
  C2  26/09  6640m (and 01/10, 07/10 just to retrieve gear not sleep)

  HPt 06/10  7200m (however Sherpas were working at about 7200m  when 
             the avalanche/ snow break occurred, a slab slid off).

  Climb abandoned on 6 Oct due to dangerous conditions of snow (like polystyrene), and then avalanche. Had 2/3 days of snow at C2.

  Team spent 26/09 reached C2 to drop gear and retreated back to ABC. 1/10 spent the night at C2. Then went back to ABC the next day. The next time team went back was 7/10 just to retrieve gear at C2 and returned to ABC.

  The Sherpas (Himalayan High Camp) took 1 week to try to fix the ropes. Went up to 100 mtrs before C3. When they fixed the last ropes, there was an avalanche/slab sliding off (plaque a vent), meanwhile the team were at ABC. One of the Sherpas (Lhakpa) fell, but was roped in so he survived.

  Oxygen: taken, but didn’t use.

  Back to ABC on 7 Oct and left ABC on 9 Oct via Makalu BC/Arun Valley (4 days walking to Num)

  Sherpas:
    Purna Tamang, Lamabagar-5, Dolakha, 1970/11/5
    Lakpa Chhiri Sherpa, Solukhumbu
    Pasang Gombu Sherpa, Solukhumbu

  Note: Masatoshi Takeda was off on his own attempting the SW Face. The team never even met him. He arrived at his own camp (400m below team’s ABC Camp) 20 days before. No Sherpa guide, just a cook and assistant cook, unsure what their roles were at his camp. Maybe his high point was 6500m, but it’s unsure because they couldn’t see him. There was a lot of snow. He turned back. He actually returned one day before the team and team saw him along the route ahead of them on the return through Arun valley.


expid: MANA19301
peakid: MANA
year: 2019
route1: NE Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Sherpa Rope-Fixing
sponsor: Sherpa Rope-Fixing Manaslu 2019
countries: Pakistan
bcdate: 2019-09-06
smtdate: 2019-09-24
smttime: 1340
campsites: BC(06/09),C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(24/09)
routememo:
  From The Himalayan Times, Rajan Pokhrel - 24 Sept 2019

  Tashi Lakpa Sherpa, Director of the Seven Summit Treks, said that a rope fixing team comprising Nima Dorchi Sherpa, Ngima Thinduk Sherpa and Tenjing Chhombi Sherpa from Makalu and Namgyal Bhote from Bodkhola, Sankhuwasabha along with renowned climber Ali Sadpara from Pakistan made it to the summit point opening its climbing route above Camp IV at around 1:45 pm.

  The team, which struggled for hours to trace the route due to deep snow, finally made to the summit after the mountain witnessed fair weather, Sherpa told THT from the base camp. “The rope-fixing team had left for the high camps on Friday to open the summit route,” he added.


  From Ali Sadpara - 2 Oct 2019

  BC  06/09
  C1
  C2
  C3  15/09
  C4
  Smt 24/09  Ali Sadpara, Ngima Dorchi Sherpa, Ngima Thenduk Sherpa, Tenji Chhumbi 
             Sherpa, Namgya Bhote.

  Ali Sadpara climbed as part of the rope-fixing team of SST. He is sponsored by SST and the Pakistan Army. Team tried to summit on 23/09, but too windy, turned around at 7300m. On 24/09 summit by fixing team. Summit at 1:40 pm. Started from C3 at 8 pm on 23/09. After summit down to BC at 9 pm. Difficult conditions, quite risky and dangerous in summit area, a lot of small avalanches. A lot of wind. Ali Sadpara left BC on 30/09.

  Oxygen:
    Not taken not used by Sadpara. 
    Other Sherpas from C4 to summit and down to C4. 

  Fixed rope: from BC to summit

  Ali Sadpara next to Dhaulagiri I. He takes a heli to BC on 03/10.


expid: MANA19302
peakid: MANA
year: 2019
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Baptiste Chandesris
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Manaslu Expedition 2019
countries: Australia, India, Ireland, Israel, USA
approach: By heli to Samagaon
bcdate: 2019-09-08
smtdate: 2019-09-27
smttime: 0615
termdate: 2019-09-29
campsites: BC(08/09,4800m),C1(14/09,5750m),C2(15/09,6330m),C3(25/09,6740m),C4(26/09,7500m),Smt(27/09)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  08/09  4800m
  C1  14/09  5750m
  C2  15/09  6330m
  C3  25/09  6740m
  C4  26/09  7500m
  Smt 27/09  by Chandesris, Shine, Negri, Phong, Smith, all Sherpas except 
             Da Jangbu Sherpa.

  Team left C4 at 2:20 am for summit, at the top at 6:15 am. Had to wait a bit at summit area. No wind, not very cold, sea of clouds below them. Then down to C2 at 2 pm.

  Quinsee and Green reached high point at C3. They didn't feel strong enough to go up from C1 on summit rotation and walked down with Da Jangbu. They flew out from BC on 26/09.

  Rest of team left BC on 29/09. Negri and Phong flew out from Samagaon on 30/09. The rest walked out via Arughat.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used by members from C3 to summit and down to C3
    by Sherpas from C4 to summit and down to C4.

  Sherpas:
    Da Jangbu Sherpa, Pangboche, 22/04/1973
    Pemba Sherpa, Taksindu, 1/09/1995
    Pemba Chhewang Sherpa, Tapting
    Nima Chhiri Sherpa, Phortse, 22/04/1972
    Pasang Onju Bhote, Makalu, 21/04/1977
    Dawa Wangchu Sherpa, Pangboche


expid: MANA19303
peakid: MANA
year: 2019
route1: NE Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Andreas Neuschmid
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Manaslu Expedition 2019
countries: Austria, France, Germany
approach: Via Larkya La
bcdate: 2019-09-02
smtdate: 2019-09-26
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2019-09-29
campsites: BC(20/09),C1(08/09,5800m),C2(12/09,6400m),C3(18/09,6700m),C4(25/09,7400m),Smt(26/09)
agency: Himalaya Vision
routememo:
  BC  02/09
  C!  08/09  5800m
  C2  12/09  6400m
  C3  18/09  6700m
  C4  25/09  7400m
  Smt 26/09  by all Sherpas (except Lale), Gessler, Neuschmid, Mueller, Schoeffel, 
             Seguin and Schittich.

  Team started from C4 at 1 am, on summit at 8 am. Back to C2 at 4 pm. No visibility from summit.

  Brand and Gilgen turned back at 6700m on 25/09 because of health issues.

  Team left BC on 29/09. Gessler flew out by heli from Samagaon; the rest trekked out via Arughat. 

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used by all summiteers from C2 to summit and down to C3. 
    Not used by Sherpas.

  Hired: 
    Kusang Sherpa (S)
    Karma Sherpa (S)
    Gyalzen Sherpa (S)
    Lale Sherpa (6700m)
    Tashi Sherpa (S)
    Pasang Dendi Sherpa (S)
    Lakpa Nuru Sherpa (S)
    Gelu Sherpa (S)


expid: MANA19304
peakid: MANA
year: 2019
route1: NE Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Stefan Fritsche
sponsor: Amical Alpin Manaslu Expedition 2019
countries: Austria
approach: Dharapani->Larkya La->Samagaon
bcdate: 2019-09-08
smtdate: 2019-09-26
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2019-09-28
campsites: BC(08/09,4800m),C1(12/09),C2(17/09),C3(18/09),C4(25/09,7430m),Smt(26-27/09)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  08/09  4800m
  C1  12/09
  C2  17/09
  C3  18/09
  C4  25/09  7450m
  Smt 26/09  by Quade, Burchard, Seidel, Pircher, Fritsche, Jangbu Sherpa, 
             Karma Sherpa
  Smt 27/09  by Orywa, Mingma Tenji Sherpa.

  Stoschek turned around at 6000m on 13/09 because of difficulty and steepness of route.

  First summit party started for summit at 1:20 am, reached the top at 10:30 am, down to C4 at 1 pm. Quite crowded at summit area, no visibility from the top. Second summit party started at 1 am, reached the top at noon, then down to C4.

  Team left BC on 28/09.

  Oxygen:
    Taken for emergency, not used by members
    Used by Mingma Tenji Sherpa from C4 to summit to C4; not used by other Sherpas.

  Accidents: One member dislocated shoulder, nothing dramatic.

  Hired:
    Mingma Tenji Sherpa (S)
    Karma Sherpa (S)
    Jangbu Sherpa (S)


expid: MANA19305
peakid: MANA
year: 2019
route1: NE Face
nation: USA
leaders: Don Wargowsky
sponsor: SummitClimb Manaslu Expedition 2019
countries: Australia, Czech Republic, Finland, Germany, Russia
approach: Besisahar->Larkya La->Samagaon
bcdate: 2019-09-10
smtdate: 2019-09-27
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2019-09-30
campsites: BC(10/09,4975m),C1(14/09,5600m),C2(21/09),C3(26/09),C4(27/09),Smt(27-28/09)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  BC  10/09  4975m
  C1  14/09  5600m
  C2  21/09
  C3  26/09
  C4  27/09
  Smt 27/09  by Wargowsky, Hilander, Cervenka, Tenji Sherpa
  Smt 28/09  by Bortkevich, Ang Dorje Sherpa.

  First summit team with Wargowsky left C3 at 8:45 pm, summited at 3 pm on 27/09, down to C4 at 9 pm.

  Bortkevich and Ang Dorje summited on 28/09 at 7:30 am. They started from C4 to the summit.

  Asmus didn't go higher than BC; didn't acclimatize well and walked out on his own.

  Christopher left on the approach to BC, he was sick and didn't get near the mountain.

  Team left BC on 30/09.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used by Sherpas (from C4), Bortkevich (from C3), 
      Cervenka (from 7700m), Wargowsky only on descent (from 7700m to C3).

  Hired: 
    Ang Dorje Sherpa (S) 
    Tenji Sherpa (S)


expid: MANA19306
peakid: MANA
year: 2019
route1: NE Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Chris Keller
sponsor: Climbalaya Manaslu Expedition 2019
countries: Austria, Lithuania
approach: Beshisahar->Larkya La->Samagaon
bcdate: 2019-09-05
smtdate: 2019-09-26
smttime: 0810
termdate: 2019-09-28
campsites: BC(05/09,4850m),C1(10/09,5800m),C2(15/09,6300m),C3(24/05,6750m),C4(25/09,7450m),Smt(26/09)
agency: Climbalaya
routememo:
  From Chris Keller and Tadas Jersovas reports:

  Team set out from C4 (7400m) adn 2:30 am. Light snow, quite no wind and unexpectedly warm (sadly summit was cloudy). Stayed 5-10 minutes on top.

  Summiters on 26/09:
    Tadas Jersovas, Danguole Bickuniene, Vincas Petrokas and Genadij Makusev from 
      Lithuania
    Christopher Keller and Marina Keller from Germany
    Pemba Tenjin, Pasang Doree, Pema Sherpa, Rita Geljen, Dawa Tenzing, 
      Nima Nuru and Pemba Tenzing Sherpa

  Descent:
    3 Lithuanians reached BC at 7 pm
    Marina Keller, Chris Keller and Genadij Makusev reached C2 at 3:30 pm.

  Permit leader was Chris Keller. Phurba Namgyal Sherpa was overall leader from Climbalaya agency.


  From Sven Sauer report:

  Sauer got frostbite at C1 on 11/09. Sauer and Erhard went to C2, then decided to abandon the expedition stating the members did not get along well on the mountain.


expid: MANA19307
peakid: MANA
year: 2019
route1: NE Face
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Danylo Yasnuk
sponsor: Alpomania Manaslu Expedition 2019
approach: Besisahar->Larkya La->Samagaon
bcdate: 2019-09-11
smtdate: 2019-09-28
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2019-09-30
campsites: BC(11/09,4800m),C1(12/09,5700m),C2(14/09,6400m),C3(22/09,6800m),C4(27/09,7450m),Smt(28/09)
accidents: Little bit of frozen toes for Yasnyuk, but expected because no oxygen, nothing serious.
agency: Climbalaya
routememo:
  BC  11/9  4800m
  C1  12/9  5700m
  C2  14/9  6400m
  C3  22/9  6800m
  C4  27/9  7450m
  Smt 28/9  by all members, Sherpa summitted independently (they hired him only to
            help them set up camps, but he wanted to go to the top and didn't help
            them from C4 to summit).

  Team left for summit at 1:00 am from C4, arrived on summit at 9:30 am for Danylo, 10 am for Pavlo, then left summit around 10:30 am, spent an hour in C4, packed everything, started descent to C2, slept at C2 on 28/09. 29/09 back in base camp and left BC on 30/09. Took helicopter back from Samagaon.

  Weather wasn't great, light-moderate wind, not too cold, cloudy, light snow. Because of bad weather, spent five days in a row in base camp, acclimatization plans ruined, thought they might have to use oxygen because of weather. But tried without oxygen and made it.

  Oxygen:
    Taken, not used by members
    Used by Sherpa (but for independent summit, started using oxygen in C4 when he
      left the group).

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Sherpa assisted them up until C4 (he brought oxygen to C4 just in case).


expid: MANA19308
peakid: MANA
year: 2019
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Ryuseki Hiraoka
sponsor: Ryuseki Expeditions Manaslu 2019
approach: By heli to Samagaon
bcdate: 2019-09-10
smtdate: 2019-09-12
termdate: 2019-09-13
termnote: Abandoned at 5000m (near BC) due to client AMS
campsites: BC(10/09,4700m),xxx(12/09,5000m)
accidents: HAPE/HACE by Kaneko
agency: Climbalaya
routememo:
  BC  10/09  4700m
  HPt 12/09  5000m by Hiraoka and Kaneko.

  Team flew to Samagaon on 6 Sept, climbed up to base camp on 10 Sept, then left base camp on 13 Sept. They just walked around base camp, reaching about 5000m.

  Hiraoka was surprised when Kaneko got a fever of 38C on 12 Sept after they went for walk around BC for only 2 hours. The next morning, he was suffering from HAPE and HACE.

  They walked down for about 20 minutes using oxygen, and then all of a sudden, Kaneko sat down and was unconscious. It is so quick and Hiraoka could not feel his body condition. They got him down to Samagaon in the end.

  The weather was too bad for the helicopter to pick them up, but the rescue was successful and they were picked up from Samagaon on 14 Sept.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from BC down towards Samagaon by Kaneko.


expid: MANA19309
peakid: MANA
year: 2019
route1: NE Face
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Arnold Coster
sponsor: Arnold Coster Expeditions Manaslu 2019
countries: Belgium, Canada, Sweden, USA
approach: Besisahar->Larkya La->Samagaon
bcdate: 2019-09-07
smtdate: 2019-09-27
smttime: 0500
termdate: 2019-09-29
campsites: BC(07/09,4800m),C1(11/09,5750m),C2(15/09,6200m),C3(26/09,6800m),Smt(27/09)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Summit team left C3 at 9 pm on 26 Sept, summited between 5 am-8 am on 27 Sept, stayed 10 minutes on summit, then descended to BC same day.

  Jon Kedrowski did not use supplemental oxygen.

  Sherpas:
    Karma Sherpa, Makalu-Barun
    Ming Dorchi Sherpa, Makalu-Barun
    Pem Norbu Sherpa, Makalu-Barun
    Nga Tashi Sherpa, Makalu-Barun
    Pasang Sherpa, Makalu-Barun
    Dawa Dorchi Sherpa, Makalu-Barun
    Lakpa Sherpa, Makalu-Barun

    Pasang Bhote, Makala-Barun [joined on summit day from Int'l team]


  Alexander Chernykh - 4 Oct 2019

  Chernykh was part of Arnold Coster's team. Chernykh and Karma summitted on 27/09 at 5 am. They started from C2 at 7 am on 26/09. Stayed in C3 until 7:30 pm. Started summit push from there. Stayed on summit for 20 minutes, waited for the sun to rise. Good views from summit. Down to BC at 4 pm the same day.

  Oxygen: taken and used by Chernykh and Sherpa from C3 to summit and down. 
          (Chernykh’s mask broke on the summit).


expid: MANA19310
peakid: MANA
year: 2019
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Inigo Castineyra Lerchundi
sponsor: SST International Manaslu Expedition 2019
countries: China, Hungary, Ireland, Netherlands, Poland, Russia, UK, Ukraine
bcdate: 2019-09-14
smtdate: 2019-09-26
smttime: 0600
campsites: BC(14/09,4800m),C1(15/09,5800m),C2(23/09,6300m),C3(6800m),C4(24/09,7400m),Smt(26-28/09)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Benito Tompot - 1 Oct 2019

  Tompot abandoned climb on 26/09 at C3 (6800m). At C3 Tompot was told there was not going to be a tent to sleep in C4. He wanted to rest a few hours at C4 and go for summit from there. Pasang Bhote said he had to go from C3 and also pushed him to go as far as he could, but Tompot refused without a plan to rest at C4. Adding to the factors that he had a little cold and only one Thermos of 1 litre between two of them (Pasang didn't have a Thermos). Tompot decided not to go for summit due to these factors. Tompot stayed one night therefore at C3, and descended to BC on 27th Sept in one day. 

  [Pasang Bhote went to summit on 27/09 with Coster team.]


  Chen Xue - 29 Sept 2019

  There were only four climbers in the small international summit team, include two Korean, one Spanish and one Chinese Chen Xue. They left BC at 7 am on 22-Sep and reached C2 at 3:30 pm in the same day. They started summit push from C2, but there were no C3 and C4 for them, no tents, food or water. Chen Xue suffered it for more than 45 hours. At midnight, they need to sit on snow outside tents. The terrible summit plan and no logistics support caused her to be exhausted and emotional breakdown then she gave up summit on her highest point 8100m. When she descended to C2 at 4:30 pm on 25-Sep, she felt both eyes had severe pain and blurred vision when she slept in the tent. Then she lost most eyesight when she was near C1. Finally reached BC safely with her Sherpa on 26-Sep.


  Magdelena Gorzkowska - 3 Oct 2019 

  Summit on 27/09 by Gorzkowska and Pemba Sherpa Lama at 6:35 am. Started from C4 at 11:50 pm and down to C3 at 2 pm.

  Oxygen: not used by member, by Sherpa from just before C4 to summit and down to C4.


  Ingio Lerchundi - 16 July 2020 (email)

  C1	14/09
  C2 	15/09
  C3	23/09
  C4	24/09
  Summit 26/09 with Temba's brother [Dandu Bhote]

  Oxygen from C4 to summit to C4 for both.


expid: MANA19311
peakid: MANA
year: 2019
route1: NE Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Francois Cazzanelli
sponsor: Italian Manaslu & Panpoche 1 Expedition 2019
countries: Switzerland
approach: Besisahar->Larkya La->Samagaon
bcdate: 2019-09-14
smtdate: 2019-09-26
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2019-09-29
othersmts: Attempted Panpoche 1 (PAN1-193-02)
campsites: BC(14/09,4900m),C2(15/09,6300m),C3(20/09,6780m),Smt(26/09)
achievment: Speed ascent record of normal route by Francois Cazzanelli
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Manaslu:

  BC  14/09  4900m
  C1         None
  C2  15/09  6300m
  C3  20/09  6780m
  C4         None
  Smt 26/09  by all members.

  Oxygen: not taken not used.

  Left Manaslu BC on 29 Sept to Samagaon for Panpoche 1.

  Expedition schedule:

  Team acclimatized on Panpoche 1, intending the WNW Ridge to Peak 6567m, north subpeak to Panpoche 1, approaching it from a valley SW of the ridge rooting in the valley between Samagaon and Samdo (after 1 hr walk from Samagaon). On 10 Sept made a deposit at 5100m afoot of the ridge first difficulty, the first pillar; this after reaching the col nearby below and climbing next a short-easy buttress unroped. Then team switched to Manaslu normal route.

  Team arrived at Manaslu BC on Sept 14. The day after, went up to sleep at C2. The day after back to BC. Had a rest from 16 to 18 of Sept.

  19 Sept: team went back to sleep at C2.
  20 Sept: team went up to sleep at C3.
  21 Sept: team back to BC.

  Had a new rest period.

  25 Sept: Emrik, Marco and Francesco went up to sleep at C3.
  26 Sept: Emrik, Marco and Francesco started from C3 at midnight.
           Marco summited with Francois at 10 am. Emrik and Francesco summited with 
           Andreas at noon. Francois was back to BC at 2:45 pm, Marco at 5:30 pm,
           Andreas at 6:30 pm, Francesco and Emrik at 9:30 pm.

  Speed ascent details for Francois and Andreas:

  Francois and Andreas planned for a 16-17 hour ascent from BC to top. They started the chronometer at the Chinese grave (a stone fixed point at about 5000m amid of the base camp) at 9 pm on 25 Sept. Duet reached C3 at 1:15 am, in a 4:15 trip, having 1 hour advance in their schedule. Had a 15 min pause there. Then duet reached C4 at 5:30 am, in a 4 hr trip. Some fresh snow had recovered the tracks due to strong winds, so that they needed to break the trail again and slow down. Lost 1:30 in their schedule in that section. From C4 duet split. Francois reaching the top at 10 am with Marco. Francois could keep a good pace in that last section, walking 50 steps between each pause. They stayed 30 min to make pictures, then Francois started his descent reaching BC at about 2:45 pm, in a 17:43 round trip from BC. Francois changed from his big shoes which hurt his feet to lighter ones at C2, however being astonished to have walked down so fast. Andreas Steindl reached the top at noon with Francesco and Emrik. Reached BC at 6:30 pm, in a 21:30 round trip.

  At first team intended a repeat of the Kukuczka/Hajzer route, but snow conditions made it just too dangerous for an attempt.

  Left BC for Samagaon on 29 Sept. From there, were back to Panpoche 1.

  High point on (PAN1): 4 Oct at 5900m on WNW Ridge of Peak 6567m (north of PAN1) by 5 members.

  Route: WNW Ridge of Peak 6567m to NNE Ridge of Panpoche 1.

  Climb abandoned on Panpoche 1: 4 October in the evening due to weather forecast, shorter deadline.

  3 Oct: from Samagaon, team reached back to their deposit at 5100m. Here had the surprise to find the gear which had been hung, whereas the one left on ground was covered below a 40 cms hard snow layer. Ropes and harnesses previously left were all wet so needed a 1 hr to be ready! Back to the deposit time the previous month, the pillar was dry, which wasn't anymore the case now. Group split into 2 ropes: Marco and Francois on 1 rope, other 3 on the other rope.

  Both climbed the first pillar (200m, 4 pitches/M4/left 2 pitons in a hard pitch), one team by the right (Marco and Francois), the other one by the left; then the ridge got flat, then made a slight descent (20/30m); in a col at 5300m, they put their tents.

  4 Oct: Attacked the day with a M4 pitch, then had a rock pillar climbed in a 40/50m pitch. From there started a long flat ridge covered with much snow! They traversed it all, twice with a little section of descent. Then faced a new buttress on the ridge. Here had some mixed ground (M4+), where they abandoned a blocked friend, then some rock (4). Stopped at 5 pm at 5900m, where the ridge gets sharper, a 100m before a snowy shoulder, separated by 2 rock towers to cross to be the crux. Went down a 100m on the ridge (5800m) where they dug space in a snow slope to put 2 tents. Taking the latest weather forecast, it had changed from 4 to 3 days of good weather, in fact a new perturbation coming on 6 Oct, when they had planned for their descent day. Took decision that evening to cancel the attempt.

  5 Oct: Begun the descent by the south face of the ridge. Went down a new 100m on the ridge until c5700m, from there starting to equip abseils on the south face. 9 belays were equipped; from there reached and could down-climb a couloir until almost reaching the moraine. At that stage, followed right side down-climbing a snowy shelf with their crampons, by which in a last 10th 60m abseil on piton they could reach the moraine. In total had equipped 600m of abseils with 10 belays (8 pitons, 1 block with rope sling around it, 1 snow bar).

  3 fantastic days of mountaineering! Very small space for tents on that sharp ridge, sleeping roped to the mountain. Not technical ground, but serious enough to necessitate time. Length, with lots of flat or even descent sections. Found no gear remnants of some past attempts there. Had a lots of snow above 4500m during the actual attempt. Rock was very rotten, so snow consolidating it was in that sense an advantage, despite necessitating to break trail, sometimes up to the knees.


expid: MANA19312
peakid: MANA
year: 2019
route1: NE Face
nation: Poland
leaders: Zbigniew Bak
sponsor: Polish Manaslu Expedition 2019
approach: Besisahar->Larkya La->Samagaon
bcdate: 2019-09-13
smtdate: 2019-09-27
smttime: 0650
termdate: 2019-09-29
campsites: BC(13/09),C1(15/09),C2(16/09),C3(25/09),C4(26/09),Smt(27/09)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  13/09
  C1  15/09  23/09
  C2  16/09  24/09
  C3         25/09
  C4         26/09
  Smt        27/09 at 06.50 am by Bak and Adam couple (stayed 15 minutes)

  All 5 members left for summit on 27/09 at 1 am.

  Piotr Kalinowski returned to C4 after half hour from 7600m (he was feeling sick). Rita Bladyko returned to C4 after 4 hours of climbing from 7900m (cold and exhausted).

  1 Sherpa Mingma Ongdi was with the Adam couple [went down with Kalinowski?].
  1 Sherpa Ming Dukpa went down with Rita Bladyko. 

  They returned to C4 at 10 am, immediately packed bags, Kalinowski was feeling fine, Bladyko was taking O2, drinking tea in the tent, exhausted, very tired, speaking normally, walking normally, no headache. They stayed 15-20 mins at C4. All went to C3 together and slept the same night there (27/09).

  Everyone was sleeping in the tents (3 tents): 1 with Sherpas, 1 for Adam couple, and 1 for the rest of the 3 in the team. In the evening Sherpas made hot water, food, etc. Bladyko was normal at that point. She was the first in the tent with Sherpas. She was speaking normally in the tent at night.

  28/09 7 am when Bak awoke, he discovered that only he and Piotr were in the tent. When Bak went outside the tent, half meter from the tent Bladyko was sitting, frozen. Maybe she went out in the night to the toilet. She was dead.

  Communicated with base camp. Sherpas decided to leave her body in the sleeping bag in the tents, rest of team to descend to BC.

  1 Oct SST communicated with Sherpas, who went to BC to C3 and took body to BC. 2nd Oct arrived maybe to BC. Then took body from BC by heli to Ktm on 3rd Oct.

  Oxygen: Used from C3, to summit, back to C3. Sherpas also.

  Back to BC on 28th Sept.

  Sherpas:
    Mingma Ongdi, 34 years
    Ming Dukpa Sherpa, 24/25 years

  Left BC on 29th Sept went to Samagaon, spent 2 nights there.


expid: MANA19313
peakid: MANA
year: 2019
route1: NE Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Cho Cheol-Hee
sponsor: Chung-Buk 14 Peak Manaslu Expedition 2019
approach: Heli to Samagaon
bcdate: 2019-09-09
smtdate: 2019-09-25
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2019-09-27
campsites: BC(09/09,4800m),C1(13/09,5600m),C2(18/09,6350m),C3(19/09.6700m),Smt(25/09)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  09/09  4800m
  C1  13/09  5600m
  C2  18/09  6350m
  C3  19/09  6700m
  Smt 24/09  by Cho

  Cho arrived at summit at 6 am 25 Sept and spent 30 mins on the summit (so many flex’s to hold up!).

  Conditions: snow good, but after 25 Sept summit got cloudy. A lot of people so a lot of waiting along the ascent. At least 2-1/2 hr wait for photo.

  Descent: Cho direct down to BC on same day (25 Sept) arriving at 5 pm.

  Kim Kwon-Rae high point on 25 Sept just above 8000m, abandoned due to exhaustion (tired). Gave up at 2nd peak, before summit peak. Rested at C3 on 25th Sept, then descended to BC next day on 26th Sept.

  Team left BC to Samagaon 27th Sept, bad weather. Samagaon to Ktm on 29th Sept by heli.

  Oxygen: taken/used.

  Sherpas:
    Pechhumbe Sherpa, Makalu, 32 yrs (with Cho)
    Phurba Sherpa, Makalu, 28 yrs (with Kim)

  Pyeon Sang-Kyu returned home early, did not climb at all due to sickness.


expid: MANA19316
peakid: MANA
year: 2019
route1: NE Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Nirmal Purja
sponsor: Elite Himalayan Adventure Manaslu 2019
countries: Andorra, Lebanon, UK
approach: Besisahar-> Larkya La->Samagaon
bcdate: 2019-09-11
smtdate: 2019-09-27
smttime: 0555
termdate: 2019-09-29
campsites: BC(11/09,4900m),C1(15/09,5800m),C2(16/09,6300m),C3(25/09,6700m),C4(26/09,7400m),Smt(27/09)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Team departed high camp at 12:45 am on 27 Sept, summited at between 5:55 am and 7:30 am, stayed 10 minutes, then descended to base camp at 5 pm.


  Report from Steve Davis:

  When did you leave C4 for the summit?
    26 Sept at around 11:45 pm (local time)
  What date and time did you summit?
    27 Sept at 6:40 am (local time)
  Name of your Sherpa:
    Mingma David Sherpa
  Which camp did you return after the summit?
    Base Camp on 27 Sept on foot
  When did you leave BC and did you walk or take a helicopter?
    29 Sept on foot


expid: MANA19317
peakid: MANA
year: 2019
route1: NE Face
nation: China
leaders: Song Yu-Jiang
sponsor: China Dingfeng Adventures Manaslu Expedition 2019
bcdate: 2019-09-11
smtdate: 2019-09-28
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2019-09-29
campsites: BC(11/09),C1(18/09),C2(21/09),C4(27/09),Smt(28/09)
agency: Kaitu Expedition
routememo:
  The two Chinese teams and one Swiss from Kaitu Expeditions climbed together.

  Teams left BC on 25-Sep. Slept at C1, C2 and C4 in the next days. They started summit push at 00-1 am on 28-Sep. Total summiteers include 20 Chinese (include Kaiyue Women team 7 female climbers) and 1 Swiss plus 20 Nepali guides summited at 6-10 am on 28 Sep. Two of Chinese summitted without Ox2. They waited the traffic jam before summit about 1 hour. Stood on the top for ten minutes for photos. They descended to C2 for overnight at 2-9 pm and reached BC on 29-Sep. All smooth and safe.

  One Sherpa didn't go for summit due to sickness. One team leader Chen Tao did paragliding from BC to Samagaon at 7 am on 30-Sep; it took ten minutes.


expid: MANA19319
peakid: MANA
year: 2019
route1: NE Face
nation: China
leaders: Luo Jing
sponsor: Highlight Chinese Manaslu Expedition 2019
approach: Besisahar->Dharapani->Larkya La->Samagaon
bcdate: 2019-09-16
smtdate: 2019-09-27
smttime: 0330
termdate: 2019-09-28
campsites: BC(16/09),C1(20/09),C2(21/09),C3(26/09),Smt(27/09)
agency: Highlight Expeditions
routememo:
  There were two different summit plans, one for Zhang (she planned to break the speed climbing record without O2), another for other 2 climbers. Zhang left BC at 1:35 am on 24-Sep and slept C3 overnight. In next day, when she touched near 8100m on planned summit day and noticed that her four fingers had turned into black. After some Sherpas' suggestions she decided to descend immediately because she thought it may cause frostbite. After she reached C3 and met other team members, Sirdar Nurbu Sherpa told her it because of color faded on her gloves. Anyway she decided to give up and went back to BC in the same day on 26-Sep.

  Other two climbers Hu and Li left BC and slept at C1 on 25-Sep, then slept at C2 on 26-Sep. Both of them started summit push from C3 at 6-7 pm on 26-Sep, summitted between 3:30-6:30 am on 27-Sep. Hu waited for sunrise to take summit photo from 4 am-6:30 am near the top. Li Kai reached BC in the same day. Hu Hong-Zhi stayed in C2 overnight and reached BC in the next day on 28-Sep.

  Oxygen:
    Zhang only used few mins near 8000m
    Hu C3-Smt-C3
    Li C3-Smt-C1
    Sherpas 7000m-Smt-C3


expid: MANA19321
peakid: MANA
year: 2019
route1: NE Face
nation: Brazil
leaders: Carlos Santalena
sponsor: Himalayan Ascent Manaslu Expedition 2019
countries: Australia
bcdate: 2019-09-13
smtdate: 2019-09-27
smttime: 0651
termdate: 2019-09-29
campsites: BC(13/09,4700m),C1(18/09,5700m),C2(25/09,6300m),C3(26/09,6750m),Smt(27/09)
agency: Himalayan Ascent
routememo:
  BC  13/09  4700m
  C1  18/09  5700m (18/09 slept 1 night, 21/09 slept 1 night, 24/09 slept 1 night)
  C2  25/05  6300m (22/09 drop gear only no sleep, 25/09 slept)
  C3  26/09  6750m
  Smt 27/09  by Hawkins 6:51 am (was clear, spent about 10 mins on the summit)
             the rest summited at 8:45 am (spent about 30 mins on the summit).

  Team left C3 on 26 Sept at 10.30 pm. Conditions: no wind, some snow showers, perfect conditions. After summit descended to C3, all spent 27 Sept night there. 
  Back to BC on 28 Sept.

  Left BC on 29 Sept walked to Samagaon and then heli on 1 Oct.

  Sherpas: 4 sherpas for 5 climbers

  Oxygen:
    Hawkins began at 7100m on the way up
    Eduardo from 7550m
    Carlos from 7750m
    Henrique from 7100m
    Francisco (Chico) from C3 6750m
    Everyone took their oxygen off when they got back to C3


expid: MANA19324
peakid: MANA
year: 2019
route1: NE Face
nation: India
leaders: Anita Devi
sponsor: Asian Trekking Manaslu Expedition 2019
countries: Germany, Japan
approach: Arughat->Soti Khola->Samagaon
bcdate: 2019-09-13
smtdate: 2019-09-27
termdate: 2019-09-29
campsites: BC(13/09,4800m),C1(16/09,5650m),C2(21/09,6300m),C3(25/09,6800m),C4(26/09,7400m),Smt(27/09)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Anita Devi, Ken Noguchi & Jun Hiraga, and Dirk Grunert shared a permit, but climbed separately.


  Report from Dirk Grunert:

  BC  13/09  4800m
  C1  16/09  5650m
  C2  21/09  6300m
  C3  25/09  6800m
  C4  26/09  7400m
  Hpt 27/09  7800m

  Grunert turned around at 7800m, not a difficult path, but at 7800m started to feel dizzy. Stopped, waited for a moment, then continued. After a few minutes, started to feel dizzy again. Stopped, waited, started a third time, then realized something was wrong and turned back. Thought he had altitude sickness, went to C4 same day, waited a few hours in tent, packed stuff, headed to C2.

  Grunert left C4 9-10 am, not sure what time he turned back, but knows it was 7800m. Weather was okay, very dark, when he came down it was sunny, but windy. From high point, went down to C2 to sleep. Next day went down to C1, down to base camp. Got to base camp 28/09. Left BC on 29/09.

  Sherpa: None
  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


  Report from Ken Noguchi:

  BC  20/09
  C1  24/09
  C2  25/09  6300m	
  C3  26/09
  C4  27/09  7400m
  Hpt 27/09  7400m

  High point on 27-28 Sept at 7400m. Climb abandoned on 28 Sept early morning 4-5 am    after checking weather report: a lot of snow, afraid of avalanche. Quickly descended to BC. Left at 7 am and arrived around 4 pm to BC.

  Left BC on 2 Oct to Samagaon.

  Oxygen: C3 to C4 + back to C3.


expid: MANA19325
peakid: MANA
year: 2019
route1: NE Face
nation: Russia
leaders: Liudmila Korobeshko
sponsor: Seven Summits Club Manaslu Expedition 2019
countries: Moldova, USA
approach: By heli to Samagaon
bcdate: 2019-09-07
smtdate: 2019-09-26
smttime: 0530
termdate: 2019-09-27
campsites: BC(07/09,4700m),C1(10/09,5700m),C2(15/09,6400m),C3(24/09,6800m),C4(25/09,7400m),Smt(26/09)
achievment: Tolstokorova is oldest Russian woman to summit; Baciu first from Moldova to summit.
agency: 7 Summits Adventure
routememo:
  BC  07/09  4700m
  C1  10/09  5700m
  C2  15/09  6400m
  C3  24/09  6800m
  C4  25/09  7400m
  Smt 26/09  by 7 members and 8 Sherpas.

  Summit push started at 1 am on 26 Sep by all members together with Sherpas. Belkovich and Zisman reached summit at 5:30 am together with Lakpa Nurbu and Muktu Lakpa. They were the first team to summit on that day. The following members were:

    6:30 am Tolstokorova, Nurbu Chhiring and Ngima Ongdi 
    7:00 am Rublev and Korobeshko, Ngima Thindu and Rinjen
    7:30 am Larin and Baciu, Mingma Tenje and Ngima Ongda.

  Members of the team stayed on summit between 5 to 10 minutes. All members and Sherpas back to C4 between 9 to 10 am. All reached BC same day, first team arrived 3 pm and last ones at 7 pm.

  Pelland went up to C3. He left BC on 18 September by heli, he had pain in hand and could not sleep for 4 nights, probably he was nervous.

  Team left BC on 27 Sept returned to KTM on 29 Sept.

  Oxygen: All members from C2-Summit-C2; Sherpas used from C4-Summit-C4.


expid: MANA19326
peakid: MANA
year: 2019
route1: NE Face
nation: Russia
leaders: Oxana Morneva
sponsor: Makalu Extreme International Manaslu Expedition 2019
countries: Canada, Estonia, Greece, Romania
approach: Heli to BC
bcdate: 2019-09-13
smtdate: 2019-09-25
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2019-09-30
campsites: BC(13/09,4750m),C1(14/09,5750m),C2(17/09,6200m),C3(18/09,6800m),C4(24/09,7500m),Smt(25-27/09)
agency: Makalu Extreme Treks
routememo:
  BC  13/09  4750m
  C1  14/09  5750m
  C2  17/09  6200m
  C3  18/09  6800m
  C4  24/09  7500m
  Smt 25/09  by Dorchi Sherpa, Alexander Gorobets, Pasang Lama, Alexios Passalidis
             and Nurbu Sherpa at 7 am
      26/09  by Katrin Merisalu, Pem Chhiri Sherpa, Daciana Leonte (without O2) 
             at 7 am
      27/09  by Toader (summit no O2, but used on descent) at 3 pm.

  All summit teams left C4 at 9 pm and descended to C2.

  Rescue of Toader: According to Morneva, Toader felt unwell on the summit and during his descent must have got lost. The team was out of touch with him for 24 hours, however, Toader sent an SOS (I guess with a tracker) to his girlfriend in Romania who then contacted Morneva via satellite phone. As Morneva’s Sherpas were all at BC they contacted SST, who still had people on the mountain. They found Toader at 7900m on 29/09, gave him oxygen and brought him all the way down to BC as the weather was too bad for a helicopter to land. He was flown out on 30/09 and will probably lose all his fingers.

  Morneva reached C3 on 25/09 but turned back due to the bad weather conditions.

  Team left BC on 30/09 and returned to Ktm on 01/10 by helicopter from Samagaon.

  Sherpas above BC: 4

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C4 to top to C4 by all members and Sherpas, apart from 
      Leonte and Toader (Leonte did not use any O2 at all, Toader was rescued from
      7900m and put on oxygen).


expid: MANA19328
peakid: MANA
year: 2019
route1: NE Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Angelo Lobina
sponsor: Satori Adventure Manaslu Expedition 2019
countries: Australia, Bulgaria, Canada, France, USA
approach: Dharapani->Larkya La->Samagaon
bcdate: 2019-09-13
smtdate: 2019-09-25
smttime: 0607
termdate: 2019-09-29
campsites: BC(13/09,4800m),C1(16/09,5600m),C2(17/09,6300m),C3(22/09,6700m),C4(24/09,7400m),Smt(25-26/09)
agency: Satori Adventures
routememo:
  Elizabeth Revol - 6 Oct 2019

  Revol [and Anup Rai] left high camp at 12:30 am on 25 Sept, summited at 6:07 am, then returned to high camp by mid-day. Stars on the beginning and after some high clouds arrived during the night; snow after 9:00 am.


  Sebastien Trudel - 18 & 20 Dec 2020

  I climbed Manaslu on 26 Sept 2019. Vladimir Vladimorov Pavlov, Nima Sherpa, Nurbu Sherpa and myself made it to the summit around 6:15 am on that day. We were all using oxygen bottles.

  Davide Mao and Anthony Brook Marra [and Pema Sherpa] also made it later to the summit on that day. I don't know the time, but they made the summit without oxygen.

  As for Angelo Lobina, I know he reached C3 during our second rotation. But I don't know if he went passed that point during his summit push. He was sick and climbed with a different group than us.


expid: MANA19329
peakid: MANA
year: 2019
route1: NE Face
nation: Andorra
leaders: Domenec Trastoy
sponsor: Andorran Manaslu Expedition 2019
countries: Spain
approach: Samagaon by helicopter
bcdate: 2019-09-12
smtdate: 2019-09-25
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2019-09-28
campsites: BC(12/09,5000m),C1(15/09,5800m),C2(18/09,6300m),C3(22/09,6900m),C4(24/09,7450m),Smt(25/09)
agency: Satori Adventures
routememo:
  Trastoy and Cornella left C4 at midnight, summited at 7:30 am, stayed 30 minutes, then descended to base camp. One night without wind, clear, reaching the top there was fog and you could not see the valley.


expid: MANA19330
peakid: MANA
year: 2019
route1: NE Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Manuel Seibler
sponsor: Furtenbach Adventures Manaslu Expedition 2019
countries: Austria
approach: Via Larkya La->Samagaon
bcdate: 2019-09-05
smtdate: 2019-09-26
smttime: 0530
termdate: 2019-09-27
campsites: BC(05/09,4800m),C1(10/09,5700m),C2(23/09,6300m),C3(24/09,6800m),C4(25/09,7200m),Smt(26/09)
agency: Iceland Trekking (Satori Adventures pmt)
routememo:
  Summit team left C4 at 1 am, summited at 5:30 am, stayed 5-10 minutes, then descended to base camp at 4 pm. 

  Slightly snowing during the night and partly cloudy during the day, but dry again.

  Kress stopped at 5800m during summit push, not feeling well.

  Members and Sherpas used oxygen starting from C3 (6800m) to summit and back to C2 (6300m).


expid: MANA19332
peakid: MANA
year: 2019
route1: NE Face
nation: USA
leaders: David Morton
sponsor: American on Manaslu 2019
approach: Heli to Samagaon
bcdate: 2019-09-21
smtdate: 2019-10-03
termdate: 2019-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(21/09,4800m),C1(24/09,5700m),C2(28/09,6300m),C3(29/09,6800m),xxx(03/10,6900m)
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks (Satori Adventures pmt)
routememo:
  BC  21/09  4800m
  C1  24/09  5700m
  C2  28/09  6300m
  C3  29/09  6800m
      10/03  6900m

  Summit: Went for summit push on 3/10, but stopped at 6900m, just above C3. High point was 7300m on earlier acclimatization day. Deep snow made summit impossible.

  Description of climb:

  • Went all the way to base camp after aborting summit push. Didn’t know timing for turning around at high point, but arrived back at base camp on 3/10 around 10 pm.

  • Climbing pretty late relative to other teams, was the only group on the mountain for summit push. Base camp was also close to empty.

  • Heavy snow—as high as upper thigh. Winds weren’t very strong and wouldn’t have been a problem if it wasn’t for deep snow.

  Morton left BC 5/10.

  Sherpas above BC: Didn’t start with one, but joined up with Pasang Dorje Sherpa from Thame [Samde] at base camp on 1/10, climbed rest of expedition together. Both turned back at the same point (6900m) on 3/10 and descended to base camp together. 					
  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


expid: MANA19333
peakid: MANA
year: 2019
route1: NE Face
nation: Chile
leaders: Carlos Espinosa
sponsor: Chilean Manaslu Expedition 2019
approach: Via Larkya La
bcdate: 2019-09-09
smtdate: 2019-09-25
smttime: 0745
termdate: 2019-09-28
campsites: BC(09/09,4800m),C1(11/09,5800m),C2(16/09,6400m),C3(17/09,6800m),C4(24/09,7500m),Smt(25/09)
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  BC  09/09  4800m
  C1  11/09  5800m
  C2  16/09  6400m
  C3  17/09  6800m
  C4  24/09  7500m
  Smt 25/09  by Ernesto Olivares and Rodrigo Yaitul.

  Summit team left at midnight from C4. Conditions clear, less wind, no snow, very clear night. Not even too cold (didn’t need mitts!). Olivares  summited at 7:45 am,  and Yaitul at 8:30 am. Time on summit: 1.5 hr Olivares, 30 mins Yaitul.

  Last 50 meters was a bit hard for Yaitul because the ascending steps got destroyed by people coming down. Back at C4 for 1.5 hrs to eat, drink and rest a bit. Arrived C3 7 pm. Slept at C3 on that night of 25th then descended to BC on 26 Sept. Recovered gear at C2. Back to BC on 26 Sept, midday.

  No Sherpas used above BC; no oxygen used (taken for emergency only).

  Team left BC on 28 Sept and walked to Samagaon. Waited until 29th and got heli to Kathmandu.

  Espinosa no summit; high point on above C1 (6000m). Climb abandoned on 12 Sept due to bad cough, got sick.


expid: MANA19334
peakid: MANA
year: 2019
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Serge Bazin
sponsor: Snowy Horizon Manaslu Expedition
countries: Austria, Bulgaria, Germany, Japan, Nepal, Poland, Sweden, USA
approach: Trek via Larkya La
bcdate: 2019-09-08
smtdate: 2019-09-26
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2019-10-01
campsites: BC(08/09,4800m),C1(10/09),C2(12/09),C3(24/09),C4(25/09,7400m),Smt(26-28/09)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  The Birukov couple, Ngima and Ngima Tenji started from C4 at 1:30 am, reached the summit at 7:30 am on 26 Sept, back to C2 at 4-5 pm. Not so busy on summit, quite warm weather, some clouds. Oxygen taken and used by members from C3 to summit and down to C4, by Sherpas from C4 to summit and down to C4.

  Hamel, Hasslacher and Kocewiak started from C4 at 2:30 am, reached the top at 9 am (Hamel) and 10:30 am (Hasslacher and Kocewiak) on 27 Sept, back to C3 at 5:30 pm. Weather good, some visibility from the top. They climbed without oxygen and Sherpa support above BC.

  The French group of Bazin, Delalle, Departe, Mingmar Tamang and Da Chhiri started from C4 at 1:30 am, reached the top at 7:30 am on 28 Sept and down to C2 at 4 pm. Bad weather, little bit of wind and snow. No visibility. Oxygen taken and used from C3 to summit and down to C3 by all members and Sherpas.

  Lippert and Phurba Ongdi started from C4 at 12 am midnight, on summit between 6 and 7 am on 28 Sept, back to BC at 6 pm. Not busy on summit day, they were alone. Weather not good, foggy, no visibility. Oxygen used from C4 to summit and down C4 by member and Sherpa.

  Warell and Chhedar started from C4 at 8 am, summited on 28 Sept at 2 pm, back to C4 at 4 pm. Bad weather in the night before summit push, got better during the day. Larsson got to 8000m on summit push. He was very tired and felt he was too slow to reach the summit before dark. Larsson was with Jangbu; they turned back at 1 pm. Oxygen used by Larsson and Jangbu from C4 to highpoint and down to C4, by Warell and Sherpa from C4 to summit and down to C4.

  Olsson got sick and didn’t acclimatize well, he went to BC and turned around. He flew out from Samagaon on 20 Sept.

  Bochniakov (with Warell and Chhedar) started from between 7.30-8 am on 28 Sept, reached summit at 2 pm, stayed on summit maximum 10 minutes, got back to C4 around 4.30 pm and slept there with oxygen. Next day went down to BC. Oxygen used C3 to smt to crampon point, although not necessary, but to drain out the cylinder.

  Kreissig and Binya Dhakal climbed together with Mohan Singh Tamang and Bir Bahadur Tamang as hired. Dhakal was a personal friend of Kreissig from 2009.


expid: MANA19336
peakid: MANA
year: 2019
route1: NE Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Cesare Cesa Bianchi
sponsor: Mountain Kingdom Manaslu Expedition 2019
approach: By heli and trekking
bcdate: 2019-09-08
smtdate: 2019-09-27
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2019-10-01
campsites: BC(08/09,4800m),C1(11/09,5650m),C2(16/09),C3(25/09),C4(26/09),Smt(27/09)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  BC  08/09  4800m (lower basecamp)
  C1  11/09  5650m (higher C1)
  C2  16/09,24/09
  C3  25/09
  C4  26/09
  Smt 27/09  by Guide Spinelli and Cesa Bianchi summited at 10:30-11 am.

  Summit team waited out bad weather at base camp; set out on 23/09 from base camp. Left C4 on 27/9 for summit at 1 am. Good weather (cold but no wind) for summit push
  Guido and Cesare, and three Sherpas left at same time for summit. Summited at 10:30-11 am, spent one hours on summit. Alone on the summit, no other people. Started descent around 11:30-12:00. No problems on descent. Descended to C4, slept there. Down to Base Camp on 28/09.

  No Summit: Silvano Spinelli, high point on 11/09 at C1, stayed the night. Climb abandoned on 12/09 due to: blood pressure issues, was not feeling well. Walked down from C1 on 12/09. Left base camp on 15/09. Was able to walk down to Samagaon, took heli to KTM on 18/09.    

  Bianch left BC on 01/10, walked to Sotikhola, Arughat. 
  Guido Spinelli left BC 30/09, flew by heli on 2/10 from Samagaon.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used

  Sherpas:
    Chhebe Bhote, Makalu
    Sangbu Lama Sherpa, Khumbu, 30-38 yrs
    Nima Yambu [Nuru] Sherpa, Makalu


expid: MANA19337
peakid: MANA
year: 2019
route1: NE Face
nation: Poland
leaders: Pawel Michalski
sponsor: Manaslu Reaktywacja 2019
approach: Via Larkya La
bcdate: 2019-09-07
smtdate: 2019-09-28
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2019-09-30
campsites: BC(07/09),C1(11/09),C2(19/09),C3(20/09),C4(27/09),Smt(28/09)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  BC  07/09
  C1  11/09
  C2  19/09
  C3  20/09
  C4  27/09
  Smt 28/09  by all members.

  Team started from C4 between 3-4 am. Whole team on summit between 12-1 pm, then down to C4 at 4 pm. Weather was cloudy and windy all the way up. All in bad weather on the mountain. No views from the summit.

  No Sherpas, no oxygen.


expid: MANA19338
peakid: MANA
year: 2019
route1: NE Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Cristina Piolini
sponsor: Pink Mountain Manaslu Expedition 2019
approach: Besisahar->Larkya La->Samagaon
bcdate: 2019-09-07
smtdate: 2019-09-27
smttime: 0657
termdate: 2019-10-01
campsites: BC(07/09,4831m),C1(11/09,5670m),C2(19/09,6200m),C3(25/09,6800m),C4(26/09,7400m),Smt(27/09)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Piolini started from the C4 at 00:20. Intense cold and light snowfall. During the night the weather changed: very cold, but good weather, many stars in the sky. On the top, very cold, good weather, many uphill clouds at the bottom. Returned to C4 at 9:15 am. After having dismantled the camp, descended from C3 to C2 arivang at 1:45 pm where she spent the night. Sept 28 to base camp at about 12:30 pm local time.

  Summited with Andorran lady (Estenania Troguet Torres) and her Sherpa.


expid: MANA19339
peakid: MANA
year: 2019
route1: NE Face
nation: Iran
leaders: Zahra Nemati
sponsor: Iranian Manaslu Expedition 2019
bcdate: 2019-09-09
smtdate: 2019-09-26
termdate: 2019-09-29
campsites: BC(09/09),C1(23/09),C2(24/09),C3(25/09),C4(26/09),Smt(26-27/09)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  BC  09/09
  C1  23/09
  C2  24/09
  C3  25/09
  C4  26/09
  Smt 27/09 by Nemati at 11 am.

  Nemati started from C4 at 2 am, summited at 11 am, stayed 30 minutes, then down to C3. Slept at C3, down to BC 28 Sept.

  Left BC on 29 Sept for Samagaon. 30 Sept walked back out.

  Oxygen: C4-summit-C4

  Sherpa:
    Ngima Tenzing, Khumbu, 36 years old.


expid: MANA19341
peakid: MANA
year: 2019
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Naoko Watanabe
sponsor: Pioneer Adventure Manaslu Expedition
countries: Colombia/USA, Poland, USA
approach: Via Larkya La
bcdate: 2019-09-10
smtdate: 2019-09-26
termdate: 2019-09-29
campsites: BC(10/09,4700m),C1(15/09,5500m),C2(16/09,6250m),C3(25/09,6800m),C4(26/09,7450m),Smt(26-27/09)
agency: Pioneer Adventure
routememo:
  Claudia Lopez and Izabela Smolokowska were Ticino Treks clients on the Pioneer Adventures permit.

  Claudia Lopez Report:

  BC  10/09  4700m
  C1  15/09  5500m
  C2  16/09  6250m
  C3  25/09  6800m
  C4  26/09  7450m
  Smt 27/09  by Lopez, Smolokowska and 3 Sherpas.

  Claudia Lopez and Izabela Smolokowska left C4 at 12:30 am, summited on 27 Sept with three Sherpas at 5:32 am, stayed 10 minutes, then descended to C3 arriving at noon. Very light snow, no wind and relatively warm.


  Miyuki Yamamoto was an Adventure Himalaya client on the Pioneer Adventures permit.

  Miyuki Yamamoto report:

  BC  06/09  4400m
  C1  14/09  5500m
  C2  15/09  6300m approx
  C3  25/09  6700m approx
  C4  26/09  7400m approx
  Smt 27/09  by Yamamoto, Anup Gurung and Sujan Gurung.

  Summit push started from C4 at 2:30 am on 27 Sept, they got to the top at 7:20 am, stayed on the summit about 30 minutes, back to C4 9:30 am, then continued descending to C2 where they arrived at 2:30 pm. Next day they went down to BC. Summit day weather below 7000m it was cloudy and above was clear. Left BC on 29 Sept.

  Oxygen: 7200m-Smt-7200m, Hired C4-Smt-C4.


expid: MANA19343
peakid: MANA
year: 2019
route1: NE Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Chatur Tamang
sponsor: Cha-Tours Manaslu Expedition 2019
countries: Azerbaijan, China, Israel
approach: Besisahar->Larkya La->Samagaon; via heli to Samagaon (Fang)
bcdate: 2019-09-11
smtdate: 2019-09-26
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2019-09-29
campsites: BC(11/09),C1(14/09),C2(15/09),C3(24/09),C4(25/09),Smt(26,28/09)
achievment: Abramson first female from Israel to summit Manaslu
agency: Chatours Treks (Pioneer Adventure pmt)
routememo:
  BC  11/09
  C1  14/09
  C2  15/09 
  C3  24/09
  C4  25/09
  Smt 26/09  by Abramson, Chatur, Ashurli
      28/09  by Fang, Pasang Tshiring Sherpa, Jeb Tamang, Sarmila (Lama) Tamang.

  First summit team started from C4 at 12:30 am. Chatur and Abramson on summit at 6 am, down to BC at 7 pm. Ashurli climbed without oxygen and started at 11 pm. He reached the summit at 8:30 am, down to C3. Good weather, warm. Not really clear, a bit hazy.

  Second summit team started from C2 at 5:30 pm on 27/09. On summit at 9:30 am. Fang, Pasang and Sarmila down to C1 at 9 pm, Jeb Tamang down to C2.

  Hired:
    Pasang Tshiring Sherpa (S), Solukhumbu
    Jeb Tamang (S), Solukhumbu
    Sarmila (Lama) Tamang (S), Solukhumbu (Chatur's sister)

  Team left BC: 27/09 (Ashurli), 29/09 (rest of team).

  Oxygen:
    Not used by Ashurli
    Used by Abramson, Jeb Tamang, Pasang, Sarmila and Fang from C3 to summit and 
      down to C2; by Chatur from C4 to summit and down to C2.


expid: MANA19346
peakid: MANA
year: 2019
route1: NE Face
nation: Australia
leaders: Kevin Farebrother
sponsor: Australian Manaslu Expedition 2019
bcdate: 2019-09-07
smtdate: 2019-09-26
smttime: 0820
termdate: 2019-09-27
campsites: BC(0709,4800m),C1(09/09,5200m),C2(13/09,6100m),C3(25/09,6800m),Smt(26/09)
agency: Dream Himalaya Adventures (Wild Yak pmt)
routememo:
  Summit team left C3 (no C4) at 8 pm on 25 Sept, summited at 8:20 am on 26 Sept, stayed 30 minutes, then descended to C2 arriving at 5 pm after a break at C3. Deep snow on the high part from C3 to C4, long climb from C3 to the summit, but unremarkable with a 12-hour push to the summit; arrived at C4 site at 2 am leaving straight for the summit.

  Oxygen: Used 1 cylinder from 7400m until back at C4 site (7400m).


expid: MANA19347
peakid: MANA
year: 2019
route1: NE Face
nation: Australia
leaders: Luke Rollnik
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Manaslu Expedition 2019
countries: France, Russia, Switzerland, UK
approach: Via Larkya La
bcdate: 2019-09-08
smtdate: 2019-09-26
smttime: 0530
termdate: 2019-09-28
campsites: BC(08/09),C1(10/09),C2(16/09),C3(24/09),C4(25/09),Smt(26/09)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Report of Catherine Vuillez:

  BC  08/09
  C1  10/09
  C2  16/09
  C3  24/09
  C4  25/09
  Smt 26/09  by Vuillez, Nuru Wangchhu Sherpa.

  Summit team started at 1:30 am, on the top at 5:30 am. Very good weather, no wind, a bit cloudy. Stayed on the top for 15 minutes, thn back to BC at 1 pm. Lefeft BC on 28/09.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used by Vuillez from C3 to summit and down to Crampon Point (between 
       C1 and BC). By Sherpa from C4 to summit and down to Crampon Point.

  Hired:
    Nuru Wangchhu Sherpa (S)


expid: PAN119301
peakid: PAN1
year: 2019
route1: W Ridge-N Ridge
nation: Georgia
leaders: Archil Badriashvi
sponsor: Georgian Himalayan Expedition 2019
ascent1: 1st
approach: Trek to Samagaon from Dharapani via Larkya La
bcdate: 2019-09-26
smtdate: 2019-10-03
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2019-10-07
othersmts: Summited Panpoche II
campsites: BC(26/09,4300m),Biv1(30/09,5600m),Biv2(01/10,5850m),Biv3(02/10,6380m),Smt(03/10)
agency: Satori Adventures
routememo:
  Both climbs in pure alpine style, no Sherpas above BC, no oxygen. Just BC staff, a cook and assistant cook. 

  Panpoche II:

  18/09: Base camp at 3900m (two hours walking from Samagaon).
  20/09: Bivouac at 5800m on SW Ridge. They followed SW Ridge from BC to bivouac location.
  21/09: Stayed in bivy, bad weather.
  22/09: Started from bivy at 5:30 am, reached the summit at 5 pm. Very bad weather the whole expedition. Quite dangerous climb, lose rocks on the ridge, not much options for belays. Not vertical, but steep climb. They used minimum protection. Rock too bad for belays. From bivy location they traversed for a while to SW Face, which they climbed to the summit, a steep snowy face up to summit (up to 80°). Weather on summit day okay. It was snowing in the morning, but sky cleared on the way up. After summit a 6-hour descent to bivouac. Descent on slighty different route, on S side, down a couloir with bad snow, steep sections. Reached bivy at 12 pm midnight. Very bad snow conditions. They only used rope on ridge between BC and bivy and on first part of SW Face. After that not possible to place reliable anchors.
  23/09: Descent to BC, same location as on ascent.
  24/09: To Samagaon. Stayed in Samagaon for a few days.

  Panpoche I:

  26/09: Base camp at 4300m in the valley east of Samdo. Bad weather for a few days 
  30/09: weather started to get better and they established first bivouac at 5600m.
  01/10: bad weather, but they climbed for several hours to second bivouac at 5850m.
  02/10: climbed to third bivouac at 6380m.
  03/10: Started from bivy at 5 am. Reached the summit at 2 pm. Followed the North Ridge from the bivy, and had to traverse a wide plateau just east of the ridge. Tough snow conditions again, quite dangerous, avalanche danger and they had to break trail through the snow. Very narrow and dangerous summit ridge, sharp cornices, no possibility to place protection because of soft snow. Followed the ridge for about 4 hours to the summit. They roped up on the ridge. Summit very narrow, only space for 1 person at a time. Spent around 40 minutes at the summit. Then down to Biv3, same as on ascent, reached it at 6 pm.
  04/10: Descent all the way to BC (same as on ascent). Rest days in BC for 3 days.
  07/10: To Bimthang.
  08/10: To Dharapani.
  09/10: To KTM.


expid: PUTH19301
peakid: PUTH
year: 2019
route1: NE Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Matthew Rosenburg
sponsor: Furtenbach Adventures Putha Hiunchuli Expedition 2019
countries: UK, USA
approach: Flight to Juphal->Dunai->Kakkot->BC
bcdate: 2019-09-28
smtdate: 2019-10-09
smttime: 1045
termdate: 2019-10-11
campsites: BC(28/09,4900m),C1(30/10,5450m),C2(08/10,6300m),Smt(09/10)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  BC  28/09  4900m 
  C1  03/10  5450m 
  C2  08/10  6300m 
  Smt 09/10  by all Sherpas and all members except Herzog.

  Started from C2 at 2:30 am. Summit at 10:45 am, down to C1 at 5 pm. Good weather, very clear. Clients flew out from BC on 11/10, Rosenberg trekked back alone.

  Herzog reached his high point at 6000m. He just got married and wanted to get home to his wife. 

  Oxygen: taken for emergency, not used.

  Fixed rope: 50m at 5900m

  Hired:
    Mingma Tamang (S)
    Kusang Sherpa (S)
    Dawa Jangbu Lama (S)


expid: PUTH19304
peakid: PUTH
year: 2019
route1: NE Face
nation: Canada
leaders: Jessica Han
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Putha Hiunchuli Expedition 2019
countries: Australia, France, USA
approach: Flight to Juphal->Dunai->Kakkot->BC
bcdate: 2019-09-26
smtdate: 2019-10-09
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2019-10-12
campsites: BC(26/09,4900m),C1(02/10,5400m),C2(08/10,6200m),Smt(09/10)
agency: Beyul Adventure (Prestige Adventure pmt)
routememo:
  BC  26/09  4900m
  C1  02/10  5400m
  C2  08/10  6200m
  Smt 09/10  by everyone at same time	(9 am).

  Description of climb:
    First team to arrive at Base Camp
    Left C2 at 1:30 am for summit push on 9/10
    Weather was good, until they got to summit ridge (very windy, but clear and 
      sunny)
    Straightforward climb, no injuries
    Spent five minutes on summit (too windy)
    Went all the way down to base camp, arrived around 6 pm on 9/10.

  Team left BC on 12/10, trekked same way back, flew from Juphal.

  Oxygen:
    Members took and used oxygen from C2 to summit and back to C2.
    Sherpas not used

  Sherpas:
    Karma Rita (Phortse)
    Mingma Dorjee (Phortse)
    Pemba Gyaltsen (Phortse)


expid: PUTH19305
peakid: PUTH
year: 2019
route1: NE Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Georg Nickaes
sponsor: Dynafit Putha Hiunchuli Ski Expedition 2019
countries: Italy, USA
approach: Flight to Juphal->Dunai->Kakkot->BC
bcdate: 2019-10-02
smtdate: 2019-10-11
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2019-10-17
campsites: BC(02/10,4906m),C1(05/10,5460m),C2(07/10,6300m),Smt(11,15/10)
agency: Wild Yak Expeditions
routememo:
  BC  02/10  at 4906m
  C1  05/10  at 5460m
  C2  07/10  at 6300m
  Smt 11/10  by Kalivoda at 12:30 pm and Steinberg at 13:30 pm
  	15/10  by Boehm at 10:23 am, Nickaes and Hasenknopf at 10 am.

  All members ascended with skis (skinning).

  Steinberg and Kalivoda:

  Steinberg and Kalivoda started their summit attempt earlier as they were feeling well and acclimatised. They spent the night at C2 on 10/10. They had ascended straight from BC by foot to C1 (2-½ hours) and then they skinned up to C2, which took them another 4 hours. They left C2 at 7:15 am. Weather was good and conditions also very good. No avalanche danger. They had a crust and skinning up was easy. Kalivoda summited an hour early and met Steinberg when he was just below the summit. They both descended on their skis all the way to C1, which took them about 1-½ hours. From there, they walked back to BC, where they arrived at 5 pm. 

  Speed ascent by Benedikt Boehm on 15/10:

  Start from BC (4906m) at 4:17 am
  Summitted at 10:23 am (6.06 hrs)
  Back at BC at 12:10 am (skied to C1 and ran back to BC)
  Total time BC-summit-BC 7.53 hrs
  Total km 20.06km
  Total metres of altitude ascent/descent 2269m [2343?]
  	
  Nickaes and Hasenknopf Summit 15/10:

  Nickers and Hasenknopf started at C2 at 4:.30 am They also skinned up towards the summit, but changed their skis for their crampons at about 7000m due to the high winds. They continued to the summit carrying their skis on the backpacks. They spent about 20 minutes. They descended the summit ridge on crampons and put their skis on at about 7100m and skied down all the way to C1. From there, they walked back to BC, where they arrived at 1 pm.

  Alessandro d’Emilia reached about 6700m on 15/10. As filming was his main purpose he did not want to push too hard to get to the summit.

  Team left BC on 17/10.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


expid: PUTH19306
peakid: PUTH
year: 2019
route1: NE Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Luca Montanari
sponsor: Satori Adventures Putha Hiunchuli Expedition 2019
countries: France, Vietnam
approach: Flight to Juphal->Dunai->Kakkot->BC
bcdate: 2019-10-14
smtdate: 2019-10-26
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2019-10-29
campsites: BC(14/10,4800m),C1(19/10,5400m),C2(25/10,6100m),Smt(26/10)
agency: Satori Adventures
routememo:
  Team left C2 at 3 am on 26 Oct, summited at 10 am, stayed 20 minutes, then descended to C1 arriving at 4 pm. Windy in the beginning during night and then when the sun came out it was sunny and not windy. The snow was deep because of snowfall few days before.

  Christine Costet turned back at 6500m due to altitude sickness.

  Giorgio Sartori turned back at 6600m due to freezing fingers.


expid: PUTH19307
peakid: PUTH
year: 2019
route1: NW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dennis Kramer
sponsor: Ski Guides Nepal Putha Hiunchuli Expedition 2019
approach: Flight to Juphal->Dunai->Kakkot->BC
bcdate: 2019-10-02
smtdate: 2019-10-08
smttime: 1045
termdate: 2019-10-10
campsites: BC(02/10,4800m),C1(06/10,5350m),C2(07/10,6100m),Smt(08/10)
agency: Ski Guides Nepal
routememo:
  Kramer and Lhakpa Tenzi Sherpa left high camp at 2:30 am, summited at 10:45 am, stayed 10 minutes, the descended back to base camp arriving at 4:30 pm. 

  Kramer made a ski descent.


expid: TENE19301
peakid: TENE
year: 2019
route1: SSW Pillar
nation: Spain
leaders: Alberto Fernandez Santiago
sponsor: Spanish Tengi Ragi Tau East Expedition 2019
approach: Lukla->Namche->Thami->BC
bcdate: 2019-10-02
smtdate: 2019-10-17
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2019-10-19
othersmts: Attempted Parchamo (to 5800m)
campsites: BC(02/10,4330m),ABC(13/10,5100m),Biv1(14/10,6000m),Biv2(15/10,6250m),Biv3(16/10,6550m),Smt(17/10)
agency: Annapurna Treks
routememo:
  BC   02/10  4330m at foot of TENE
  ABC  13/10  5100m
  Biv1 14/10  6000m
  Biv2 15/10  6250m
  Biv3 16/10  6550m
  Smt  17/20  by all members.

  Acclimatized around Parchermo, staying for nights at 5500m, Tashi Lapcha (5600m). Tried for Parchermo's normal route, reaching a high point of 5800m on 10 Oct; abandonment caused by wind slabs danger. Previously had an incident with a Sherpa from a trekkers group who stole one of their tents.

  Intended first to climb West Face of Tengi Ragi Tau East, but when saw various ropes staying there changed their mind for east summit SSW pillar, climbed by a French team in 2005.

  13 Oct: BC to ABC at 5100m, at foot of difficulties.

  14 Oct: 5100m to 6000m on the pillar. Left Parchermo trail to walk up by glacier below the West Face of the SSW Pillar. Strated with snow/mixed ground (not too hard: 60° steep, few mixed steps). Reaching the pillar, the trio would continue up by some rock pitches to reach their bivy.

  15 Oct: mostly met with rock difficulties (up to 6a/6b) on beautiful granite; then had few snow and mixed ground (few steps) pitches until reaching second bivouac at 6250m.

  16 Oct: started with poor snow quality; then had nice rock pitches and 1 M6 pitch before reaching the final snow ridge at 6400m. Slept at 6550m.

  17 Oct: continued to follow the snowy ridge. With a late monsoon, was lots of snow on the ridge, not transformed, which happened to be the crux part of the whole route. Summited at 8 am, then abseiled and down-climbed until ABC, reached at 6 pm.

  18 Oct: back to BC.

  19 Oct: left BC.

  Oxygen: not taken, not used

  Records: 1st repeat of SSW Pillar avec variante d'attaque?


expid: TENG19301
peakid: TENG
year: 2019
route1: S Ridge from south
nation: Australia
leaders: Catherine Sarah
sponsor: Tengkoma Peak Climbing 2019
approach: Gyabla->Ghunsa->Kangbachen
bcdate: 2019-11-13
smtdate: 2019-11-14
smttime: 0720
termdate: 2019-11-15
campsites: BC(13/11,5200m),Smt(14/11)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Team approached from SW up to base camp, then traversed across and came to summit from S or SSE side.

  Team set out from base camp at 1 am, summited at 7:20 am, stayed on top 45 minutes, the back to base camp. Clear weather. No snow or ice at all, no crampons required.


expid: TENR19301
peakid: TENR
year: 2019
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Alan Rousseau
sponsor: American Tengi Ragi Tau Expedition
approach: Lukla->Thami->Tesi Laptsa
bcdate: 2019-10-12
smtdate: 2019-10-16
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2019-10-17
campsites: BC(12/10,5400m),Biv1(13/10,6300m),Biv2(14/10,6600m),Biv3(15/10,6800m),Smt(16/10)
agency: TAGnepal Trekking
routememo:
  Summit on 16/10 by both members.

  10/10 from Thami to camp at 5000m
  11/10 camped near Tashi Laptsa Pass
  12/10 to base of West Face, camped at 5400m
  13/10 to Biv1 at 6300m, small snow ledge, face maybe 70° on first day
  14/10 to Biv2 at 6600m, small ledge on face
  15/10 to Biv3 at 6800m, small ledge in the snow, terrible, small spot.
        No reliable anchor.
  16/10 started at bivy at 7 am, summit at 9:30 am. Good weather, cold, a bit windy.
        Same day to Biv1 at 6300m, same location. Back to Biv1 at 4 pm.
  17/10 to Thami all the way “death march”.
  18/10 rest day in Thami
  19/10 to Namche
  20/10 to Lukla 
  21/10 Lukla to KTM

  Crux at 6700m, M5+, tied together the whole time. Belayed with ice screws during the climb. Alpine-style ascent.

  Oxygen: not taken, not used.


expid: TENR19302
peakid: TENR
year: 2019
route1: W Face-N Smt
nation: France
leaders: Symon Welfringer
sponsor: Tengi Ragi Tau Expedition 2019
countries: Switzerland
approach: Chhetchhet->Surmuche->Beding->Tsho Rolpa->BC
bcdate: 2019-10-08
smtdate: 2019-10-28
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2019-11-01
othersmts: Climbed Parchamo
campsites: BC(08/10,4700m),ABC(19/10,5800m),Biv1(26/10,6100m),Biv2(72/10,6450m),N-Smt(28/10)
achievment: 1st ascent of North Summit of Tengi Ragi Tau via its West Face
agency: Holiday Himalaya Treks
routememo:
  Approach: 01/10 Chhetchhet, 03/10 Surmuche, 04/10 Beding, 05-06/10 Na, 07/10 Tsho Rolpa lake, 08/10 Base Camp.

  BC   08/10  4700m
  ABC  19/10  5800m (at foot of the W Face)
  Biv1 26/10  6100m
  Biv2 27/10  6450m
  Smt  28/10  by Symon Welfringer and Sylvan Schuepbach, at circa 2-3 pm.

  Pachermo acclimatization:

  12 Oct: base camp to bivy at 5100m amid of the new via ferrata giving access to Drolambao Glacier (brand new cables!). Met with a whole team in Na ready to install a shelter at Tashi Lapcha in honor of David Lama.
  13 Oct: bivy to ABC at 5400m.
  14 Oct: passed Tashi Lapcha, slept a 100m behind it.
  15 Oct: attempt until 6100m, stopped by wind slabs/avalanche risk; back to same bivy than previous night.

  Charles Noirot left on 18 Oct due to sickness after Parchermo climb.
    
  First attempt on W Face (by same line as second attempt):

  19 Oct: up to 5800m ABC.
  20 Oct: up to footstep of the face. Snowing all time. In the face lots of spindrifts, weather forecast not good for coming days. Back to BC.

  Second attempt and 1st ascent:

  25 Oct: BC reached ABC at 5800m. 
  26 Oct: 2 technical ice pitches (4+/5) to reach footstep of the big snowfield that was used until a rocky “lentille” at Biv1 6100m.
  27 Oct: at first 100/150m of steep snow (c.70° steep), then more technical pitches: M4, grade 5 in ice, then a crux pitch in M6 to reach Biv2 (6450m) at a good place.
  28 Oct: left Biv2 at 6 am to reach summit (6820m) trough 4 or 5 mixed ground pitches (M5, with 1 or 2 in M6) and ice flutes (70° steep) in the exit where lied crux pitch of the whole route (M5/M6). Reached back to Biv2 in the night needing about 10 abseils.
  29 Oct: abseiling back to ABC.
  30 Oct: back to BC.

  New route called “Trinité” (1500m/M6/AI5), with great mixed difficulties. Route reached North Summit of Tengi Ragi Tau, which is located on Finn Map not north of “Lanmuche Kol” (6552m), but south-east to it.

  In total needed 38-40 abseils for the whole face in the face on abalakovs, pitons and “câbles”.

  Left BC on 1 November.

  Oxygen: not taken, not used

  Route: new route up the West Face “Trinité” (1500m, M6, AI5) to North Summit.

  Other peaks: Parchermo (not to summit, stopped at around 6050m).


expid: TKPO19301
peakid: TKPO
year: 2019
route1: N Pillar
nation: Finland
leaders: Juho Knuuttila
sponsor: Finnish-Canadian Tengkangpoche Expedition 2019
countries: Canada
approach: Lukla->Namche->Thami->BC
bcdate: 2019-10-09
smtdate: 2019-10-16
termdate: 2019-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 5930m due to non-protectable route
othersmts: Attempted Cholatse (to 6100m)
agency: Climbalaya
campsites:
  BC(09/10,4350m),Biv1(11/10,5400m),Biv2(12/10,5550m),Biv3(13/10,5750m),Biv4(14/10,5880m),xxx(16/10,5930m)

routememo:
  Banfield and Roberts first on Cholatse to 6100m. Tough conditions, lots of snow on Cholatse.

  Roberts and Knuuttila hiked into Thami, then to Tengpo, where they stayed for 2 days. Then from Tengpo they went to the first bivy.

  Biv1 11/10  5400m
  Biv2 12/10  5550m
  Biv3 13/10  5750m in the middle of head wall
  Biv4 14/10  5880m
       15/10  rest day
  HPt  16/10  5930m at 9:30 am

  They couldn’t find any way that was protectable, no ice. Decided to abandon climb, rappelling down all the way to Tengpo on 16/10. Left some anchors on the descent, no bolts. They had planned to descend E Ridge after summit.

  Roberts will try again in April 2020. North Pillar never climbed before.

  Oxygen use: not taken not used

  Banfield was the photographer and never set foot on Tengkangpoche.


expid: AMAD20302
peakid: AMAD
year: 2020
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Garrett Madison
sponsor: Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam Expedition 2020
countries: Canada, Qatar
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Ama Dablam BC
bcdate: 2020-11-01
smtdate: 2020-11-10
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2020-11-12
campsites: BC(01/11,4700m),C1(04/11,5600m),C2(10/11,6000m),Smt(10-11/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  On summit day, team left high camp around 1:30 am, summited at 11:30 am, stayed 2 hours. Some members continued all the way down to base camp, some stayed in C2, then descended to base camp the following day.

  Team fixed rope all the way from C1 to the summit. Conditions were very dry, great!

  Team departed base camp on November 12 and flew straight back to Kathmandu by helicopter.

  Dorje Gyalzen and Siddhi Bahadur were part of the 10 Nov rope-fixing team: 2 from SST and 2 from HG.


expid: AMAD20303
peakid: AMAD
year: 2020
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Jon Gupta
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Ama Dablam Expedition 2020
approach: Lukla->Namche->Dingboche->Chhukung Ri->Pangboche->Ama Dablam BC
bcdate: 2020-11-15
smtdate: 2020-12-01
smttime: 1243
termdate: 2020-12-02
campsites: BC(15/11,4400m),ABC(17/11,5350m),C1(18/11,5800m),C2(26/11,6000m),Smt(01/12)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  From Jon Gupta's Facebook page:

  Ama Dablam // Summit success!

  If at first you don't succeed, pick yourself up and try again.

  On 27th November, we set out from Camp 2 in search of the summit and soon realised it wasn't going to be the day. The sunrise never came, thick cloud had rolled in and the winds were much stronger than forecast. At an altitude of 6300m we accepted defeat and turned back. That afternoon Becks and I descended all the way to Basecamp to take stock.

  The rest of our little team of Tim [Mosedale] and Kenton [Cool], and their respective clients, decided to call it a wrap and pack up and head out to Kathmandu. They'd given it everything, played the high altitude game perfectly, but it wasn't to be this time around.

  Becks however wasn't done. I checked the forecasts, discussed logistics with Kame (our Sirdar) and ran a second summit attempt through my mind. It was possible, but would take a huge effort from everyone.

  We left Basecamp on 30th November and climbed directly to Camp 2 - a big task. The weather was warm, calm and inviting. The only other small team around were descending to BC and we had the entire mountain to ourselves - pretty special. We arrived into the legendary C2 at 3 pm and quickly put the tents up and settled in. Stove on.

  The alarm went at 01:00. I was feeling great after a good sleep, Becks less so, but coffee always helps. Lhakpa was up and ready as always, smiling and helpful as we climbed off into the night. The moon was the brightest I've ever seen, illuminating every inch of the Himalayan skyline, and the cold crunch under foot told me there was little in the way of wind. Perfect.

  Time ticked by as we retraced the familiar climbing from 4 days previous. The three of us quietly moving upwards towards the top, just the scratch of crampons on rock and our heavy breathing as company. We paused as we reached Mushroom Ridge to drink a little hot chocolate from the thermos and marvel in the sunrise - a distant comforting glow bringing so much promise to the day. It was magical.

  An hour or so later we arrived at the disused sight of Camp 3. From here the mountain changes from rock couloirs and snow ridges to 400m of step snow and ice up the main face to the summit. Tiredness and exhaustion were slowly taking hold of Becks, but her determination and mental stamina was unwavering. I kept an eye on the time and the weather, but both were on our side. We pushed on with regular breaks to drink and eat, and eventually we clipped into the final length of rope that finished at the summit.

  We stood still for a moment, blinking out across the entire Himalaya, not quite believing we had done it. The only people on the entire mountain, and the highest people in the world at that moment. It could not have been more perfect.


expid: AMAD20304
peakid: AMAD
year: 2020
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Kenton Cool, Tim Mosedale
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Ama Dablam Expedition 2020
approach: Lukla->Namche->Dingboche->Chhukung Ri->Pangboche->Ama Dablam BC
bcdate: 2020-11-16
smtdate: 2020-11-27
termdate: 2020-11-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6650m due to high winds
campsites: BC(16/11,4500m),ABC(17/11/5400m),C1(19/12,5700m),C2(26/11,6000m),xxx(27/11,6650m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Cool and Mosedale (along with their two clients) turned back from 6650 on 27 Nov due to high winds, and returned to C1.

  Team left BC by heli on 29 Nov.


expid: AMAD20305
peakid: AMAD
year: 2020
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Manuel Villani
sponsor: Furtenbach Adventures Ama Dablam Expedition 2020
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Ama Dablam BC
bcdate: 2020-11-26
smtdate: 2020-11-29
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2020-11-30
campsites: BC(26/11,4567m),C1(27/11,5700m),C2(28/11,5900m),Smt(29/11)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  Villani and Mingma Dorchi Sherpa left C2 for summit at 1 am on 29 Nov, summited at 9:30 am, stayed 15 minutes, then retured to base camp by 6:30 pm.


expid: AMAD20307
peakid: AMAD
year: 2020
route1: SW Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Debasish Biswas
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Ama Dablam Expedition 2020
countries: Austria, UK
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Ama Dablam BC
bcdate: 2020-11-20
smtdate: 2020-11-30
smttime: 0615
campsites: BC(20/11,4450m),C1(5600m),C2(28/11,5900m),Smt(30/11)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Siddhanta turned back at the Mushroom Ridge (6150m) due to cold hands and toes. Biswas and Mukherjee continued on to about 6700m before turning back due to high winds.

  Siddhanta fell while down-climbing and was heli-rescued back to Lukla and then Kathmandu.


expid: AMAD20401
peakid: AMAD
year: 2020
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Tashi Lakpa Sherpa
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Ama Dablam Expedition 2020
countries: Egypt, India, Mexico, Oman, Qatar, Turkey
bcdate: 2020-12-27
smtdate: 2021-01-09
smttime: 1410
campsites: BC(27/12,4450m),C1(5600m),C2(5900m),Smt(09,14/01)
achievment: 1st Arabic woman to summit Ama Dablam
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Three rope-fixing Sherpas summited on 9 Jan at 2:10 pm, followed by Shanta Rai and Nga Tashi at 3:53 pm.

  14 Jan climbers summited between 7:30 am and 11:30 am.


expid: BARU20301
peakid: BARU
year: 2020
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Dawa Steven Sherpa
sponsor: Nepal Tourism Recovery Baruntse Expedition 2020
smtdate: 2020-10-15
smttime: 1215
campsites: BC,C1,C2,Smt(15/10)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  From Asian Trekking Facebook page:

  Kathmandu: 15 Oct 2020:

  Asian Trekking's "Nepal Tourism Recovery Expedition 2020" expedition comprising of 7 climbers including Asian Trekking Managing Director, Dawa Steven Sherpa successfully summitted Baruntse 7129m today. The team had reached Camp 2 yesterday and today pushed for the summit. The expedition was conducted to send a positive message to the climbing fraternity that Nepal is safe for climbing. The time frame of the teams summit are as follows:

  12:15 pm
    Naga Dorje Sherpa
    Samden Bhote
    Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa
  12:25 pm
    Dawa Steven Sherpa
    Pemba Tshering Sherpa
  12:40 pm
    Samir Jung Thapa
    Tshering Thundu Sherpa


expid: CHOY15111
peakid: CHOY
year: 2015
route1: NW Side
nation: USA
leaders: Peter Hamel
sponsor: American Cho Oyu Expedition 2015
approach: By jeep from KTM to Khodari to BC
bcdate: 2015-04-17
smtdate: 2015-04-23
termdate: 2015-04-27
termnote: Abandoned due to earthquake
campsites: BC(17/04,5600m),xxx(23/04,6000m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Hame; tried to scale Cho Oyu alone in Spring 2015. He reached highpoint at 6000m on acclimatization rotation on 23 Apr. All further climbing prohibited by Chinese government after earthquake. Left BC on 27 or 28 Apr.

  On the way out he drove to Lhasa, then flight to Bejing, travelled in China a bit.


expid: CHOY20301
peakid: CHOY
year: 2020
route1: NW side
nation: China
leaders: Tsering Samdrup
sponsor: Holy Mountain Adventure Cho Oyu Expedition 2020
approach: From Lhasa
bcdate: 2020-09-13
smtdate: 2020-09-29
smttime: 1045
campsites: BC(13/09),ABC(5700m),C1(6450m),C2(29/09,7100m),Smt(29-30/09)
agency: Holy Mountain Adventure
routememo:
  The 2020 Cho Oyu Mountaineering Team organized by Tibet Holy Mountain Adventure Company. At 9:22 (7:07 NST) on September 30th, 12 members and 16 guides successively reached the sixth highest peak in the world, Cho Oyu. The crew evacuated safely to the advance camp.

  From September 15 to September 22, after 8 days of hard work, the transportation team successively transported various high-altitude climbing materials to two high-altitude camps. At 13:00 (10:45 NST) on September 29th, five members of the Holy Mountain Road Repair Team successfully opened up the road to the summit, laying a solid foundation for the success of the follow-up team members.

  In order to ensure that the team members successfully climbed to the summit and safely descended, the commander-in-chief of this mountaineering activity, Ciren Sangzhu, was in command at Camp 1 at an altitude of 6450 meters. At the same time, in order to deal with emergencies during the climbing activities, they were on the 1st and 2nd. The camp (7100 meters above sea level) is equipped with 4 guides in case of emergency.

  The mountaineers for this event will report in Lhasa on September 7. After participating in the pre-departure briefing on September 9, they will begin adaptation training in the surrounding areas of Lhasa. They will embark on the journey on September 11 and arrive at Cho Oyu on September 13. Go to the camp and start high-altitude adaptation training. Due to the weather in the Cho Oyu mountain area, the high-altitude adaptation training ended on September 24, and all the climbers descended to Tingri County for adjustment.


expid: DRAN19301
peakid: DRAN
year: 2019
route1: N Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: William Rowland
sponsor: Imagine Nepal Thakar Go East Expedition 2019
approach: Rolwaling Glacier
campsites: BC,xxx(6100m)
agency: Imagine Nepal
routememo:
  Team held a permit for Thakar Go East, but attempted the North Ridge of Drangnag Ri. Got only to the North Col before being turned back by deep snow.

  Then team attempted nearby 5976m peak to the southwest. Holdsworth broke his leg in a fall and was heli-rescued back to Kathmandu.


expid: GYLZ20301
peakid: GYLZ
year: 2020
route1: SSE Face from SW
nation: Nepal
leaders: Sharmila Lama Tamang
sponsor: Jugal Expedition 2020
ascent1: 2nd
bcdate: 2020-10-17
smtdate: 2020-10-19
campsites: BC(17/10),C1(18/10),Smt(19/10)
agency: Soul Himalaya
routememo:
  From Soul Himalaya Facebook Post, 31 Oct 2020

  Summit Jugal Himal within 10 days of the round trip!

  Closed to the capital city Kathmandu, Jugal Himal is one of the hidden treasures both for the trekkers and climbers. The virgin peaks and the unspoiled region nearby the capital fascinated us to organize a mission to Summit Gyalsen Peak of the Jugal Himal range. The authority of the Jugal municipality and Sindhu Tourism Council wanted to promote tourism in the local area. Milan Lama, social worker and general secretary of STC, was very much interested to work with the local authority to promote tourism in the Jugal region. Soul Himalaya Trek worked together with the team to organize the mission expecting to have long coordination with the locals to promote tourism in the area.

  We left Kathmandu on 13th October with five Nepalese mountaineers led by Sharmila Tamang who is also human rights activist and is on a mission to submit the fourteen peaks above eight thousand along with the Himalayan range. We took a four-wheeled drive and left Kathmandu early morning. After we crossed Dhulikhel the winding road entered Helambu valley. We reached Gumbathang, a Tamang village where the trek started. Passing through agro fields the trail meets several villages of ethnic Tamang and Sherpa communities with their traditional lifestyle. Stunning views of mountains and green valleys rejoiced us. On the second day, we reached Dipu, a small settlement of Sherpa by Balephi River, which source is Jugal Mountain. On the third day, we reached Pemasal, a little valley of Lotus. A little stream flows through the valley make the place special for camping. The next day we ascended through alpine forests. The streams running down to the valleys attracted us providing heavenly views. Lopophoras, the national bird of Nepal were flying spreading their colorful wings. Mt. Phurbigachu (6500m) greeted us there and we felt like we were in paradise. On the fourth day when we reach Bumbaserphu, the village name after Sacred Vase, there is a stone cave look live vase and below there is a place for meditation. We see the reflection of the mountain on the little lake below. The view of Phurbigachu appears in the lake which was a great experience.

  On the fourth day, we reached the lower base camp. The view of Jugal appears after the 30 minutes walk from the base camp. The expedition started early morning. We found Jugal a challenge to summit. To find a climbing route in a virgin peak can be very much crucial than to climb Everest itself. There were things to handle with technical proficiency. Fixing ropes on the vertical slope was a tuff job. We had to pull the stuff and team members on the rope and walk along with the long cracked glaciers to reach the high camp. But our members were well experienced. We were friends and had good teamwork. Discovering challenges in every step and facing them we succeeded with great excitement.

  Jugal is not a common tourist destination that’s why it is special. It’s about discovering virgin routes; we hardly get such an opportunity in the other trekking areas like Jugal. The locals count you more than a tourist, the hospitality of people and their lifestyle attracted us more than in any other tourist routes. It will be a wonderful homestay experience, delightful trekking in nature, or exciting experience for the climbing enthusiasts where a single base camp offers routes to more than six different peaks of Jugal mountain ranges! It’s also a holy pilgrim’s site of Buddhist peoples where Padhmasambhawa (Guru Rimpoche) has stepped in the Jugal base camp while he was going to Tibet. There is a big cave that can host more than 1000 people and we can see the trace of pots which considered to be used by the Rimpoche himself! Apart from mountaineering, it can be a wonderful trekking experience in this region. Sindhu Tourism Council has recently developed 9 days attractive trekking circuit in the Jugal region from Kyansing to Gompathang.

  Soul Himalaya Treks and Tours had organized an expedition together with Jugal Municipality recently in October 2020. I, as a mountain leader and instructor, had an opportunity to climb Gyalsen Peak (6151m) together with the five expedition members. After successfully summiting the peak we returned to Kathmandu within 10 days!


expid: HIML14102
peakid: HIML
year: 2014
route1: W Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: John All
sponsor: Himalayan Ecstasy Himlung Expedition Spring 2014
smtdate: 2014-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m when John All fell into a crevasse near C2
campsites: BC,C1,C2(20/05,6000m),xxx(22/05,6000m)
accidents: John All was injured by a crevasse fall at C2
agency: Happy Feet Mountaineers
routememo:
  After the Himalayan Ecstasy Lhotse Expedition was cancelled due to the Everest Icefall accident, 5 members of that team took out a permit for Himlung Himal.

  On their approach march to Himlung, Byrne and Cosgriff decided to attempt another peak and left the team.

  The remaining three went on to Himlung and climbed as far as C2 at 6000m. Horodyskyj became ill at C2 and was accompanied back to base camp by St. Pierre. John All stayed alone at C3 to wait for his teammates to return and to conduct some research projects. While gathering snow to melt for his morning coffee, All fell 70 feet into a crevasse. He eventually self-rescued himself, radioed for help, and was evacuated by helicoptor to Kathmandu.


expid: HIML20302
peakid: HIML
year: 2020
route1: W Ridge
nation: Romania
leaders: Marius-Sebastian Purice
sponsor: High Himalayan Romanian Himlung Himal Expedition 2020
approach: Koto->Phu->BC
bcdate: 2020-11-15
smtdate: 2020-11-29
smttime: 1326
termdate: 2020-12-01
campsites: BC(15/11,4900m),C1(19/11,5400m),C2(21/11,6100m),Smt(29/11)
agency: High Himalayan Climbing
routememo:
  BC  15/11  4900m
  C1  21/11  5400m
  C2  27/11  6100m
  Smt 29/11  by Jyamchang Bhote, Purice, Barut Lama, Pasang Bhote, Pimba Tenzing
             Bhote at 1:26 pm.

  Team first attempted for the summit on 28 Nov. They left C2 at about 1 am, but Purice had very cold feet and was low on energy, so they turned back after about 2 hours. They stayed at C2 and rested all day. On 29 Nov they left at around 1:30 am. Very good climbing conditions. Almost no wind until the summit. Straightforward climb. They spent about half an hour on the summit and descended to C2 to stay the night.

  Rope was fixed by the previous group from TAG Nepal. Jyamchang’s team fixed some rope between C2 and the summit.


expid: KYAZ19301
peakid: KYAZ
year: 2019
route1: W Face (up); SW Ridge (down)
nation: Russia
leaders: Ivan Osipov
sponsor: Kyajo Ri Russian Expedition 2019
approach: Paphlu->Lungden (BC)
bcdate: 2019-09-19
smtdate: 2019-10-09
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2019-10-11
campsites:
  BC(19/09,4360m),ABC(5000m),Biv1(03/10),Biv2(04/10),Biv3(05/10,5700m),Biv4(07/10,6050m),Biv5(08/10)Smt(09/10)


expid: KYR220401
peakid: KYR2
year: 2020
route1: SW Face-SE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Sophie Lavaud
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Kyungka Ri 2 Expedition 2020
smtdate: 2020-12-11
smttime: 1040
campsites: BC,C1(09/12,5309m),C2(10/12,5630m),Smt(11/12)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  From Sophie Lavaud:

  After my victorious climb to Ama Dablam in Khumbu region, with my small team (Mingma Sherpa and Dawa Sangay Sherpa), I undertook the rise of a virgin summit (never climbed until now) deep down Langtang Valley: Kyangka Ri 2 (6506m).
  Today, December 11, at 10:40 am (local time), we reached the top of this mountain after a difficult, but very interesting climb. We've been shook well at the top, crazy wind! We are now back at Camp 1, well tired but happy, with Mingma Sherpa and Tenjing Sherpa and Dawa Sangay Sherpa.

  The previous days:
  The day before yesterday, December 9, we were at Camp 1 at 5309m, after a big day of walking in the ice moraine.

  Yesterday Thursday, December 10th, we climbed our little Camp 2 to 5630m high in the middle of the glacier. It was blowing pretty hard in gusts, but it was bearable.


expid: MANA20301
peakid: MANA
year: 2020
route1: NE Face
nation: Bahrain
leaders: Mohamed Hamed Mohamed Al Khalifa, Christopher Burrows
sponsor: Bahrain Royal Guard Manaslu Expedition 2020
countries: UK
bcdate: 2020-10-08
smtdate: 2020-10-15
smttime: 0630
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche for acclimatization on 3 Oct
campsites: BC(08/10),C1,C2,C3(14/10),Smt(15/10)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  From Bahrain This Month, 3 Nov 2020

  The Bahrain Royal Guard team which has been training to climb the highest mountain in the world Everest in 2021 have successfully completed their training in the Himalayan mountains. The team, consisting of 18 people, were given a mission by National Security Advisor, Royal Guard Commander Major-General His Highness Shaikh Nasser bin Hamad Al Khalifa to raise the Bahrain and Royal guard flag on the summits of Lobuche (6119m high) and, once training completed, on the summit of Manaslu.

  Exhibition leader, Christopher Anthony, tells Bahrain This Month’s Farah Baig about the experience and significant achievements that came with the climb including the renaming of part of the Himalayan mountain range to ‘Royal Bahrain Peaks’.

  The Bahrain Everest team had 12 months of training during which we, as a novice climbing team, tried to fill ourselves full of knowledge by speaking to our guides in Nepal, Seven Summit Treks. The initial expedition was to Lobuche, one of the 6000m training mountains in Nepal, which included a 14-day trek from Lukla all the way to Namche Bazaar, followed by the Lobuche base camp. There we prepared, trained and got used to all our equipment before summitting Lobuche, which served as the stepping stone we needed to go on to Manaslu, commonly known as ‘The Killer Mountain’ purely because it’s a dangerous mountain and a very technical climb which people take for granted since it’s lower than Everest.

  The training consisted of fitness training, rope work, and abseiling, making sure that we were physically and mentally fit for the task. This was in addition to understanding high altitude medicine so we can identify frostbite and non-freezing injuries within ourselves and the team. We needed to make sure that we understood the signs and symptoms of altitude sickness among other things, so it not only involved fitness but a lot of classroom work too.

  The acclimatization of Lobuche and Manaslu is probably the most important aspect of the climbing of Everest. Every single member of the team at some point experienced altitude sickness which comes with severe migraines, loss of appetite and vomiting in some cases. We found ourselves gasping for breath because of the lack of oxygen as you start pushing past 3000 meters, especially on Manaslu as we got higher. I don’t think anyone had a good night’s sleep in those 8 days as it’s very uncomfortable. Through our training and our guides, we were able to understand that, as bad as it is, this is normal and the effect of being at this altitude.

  The main challenges were obviously the unknown. We’d seen it, read it and explained it but when you’re actually in the middle of it is when you find that there are gaps, and being a novice team is where the experience is. That’s why we’d done Lobuche and Manaslu to prepare ourselves and iron out those things that were perhaps missing that we can now prepare for Everest.

  The most significant achievement was threefold really - the first one was the Bahrain and Nepalese government enabling us to come and complete the mission, in the middle of a pandemic. You know it was never an easy decision by the Bahrain and Nepalese government but in hindsight it was the right decision. That, however, was the first hurdle and first significant achievement when we got the invitation from the Nepalese government. It also included some extremely hard work by the Bahrain government and Bahrain’s embassy in Delhi that were also instrumental in facilitating the mission. The second one would of course be our first summit of Lobuche - seeing the team smile after 14 hours of sweat and tears but standing on the summit and then seeing the hunger on the guys’ faces for Manaslu. Again, seeing the guys individually summiting was just an amazing achievement personally and as a team.

  The ongoing pandemic honestly has its challenges. The guys were isolated for seven days as part of the entry procedure after which they had a COVID test to make sure we were all clear before we went to the villages in the Himalayas. The thing we didn’t want to do is infect anybody, so we had to make sure that the COVID protocol set by the Bahrain Defence Force and the Bahrain government was adhered to at all times. So, we all had gloves and masks on, and limited as much contact as we could.

  Obviously, this was phase one of the mission, phase two will be the summit of Everest which should be officially announced. Hopefully the whole team will be set on the mission in five months to summit the highest mountain in the world and raise Bahrain’s flag, in line with our mission from HM King Hamad and HH Shaikh Nasser. 

  Bahrain Everest Team:
    Christopher Anthony
    Richard Warrent McConnell
    Phillip Clough
    Mohamed Hamed Mohamed Al Khalifa
    Ebrahim Mohamed Abdulla Ebrahim Mohamed
    Mohamed Ali Jasim Ahmed Alboainnain
    Arafat Hamood Naji Ghurbah
    Ebrahim Khalil Ebrahim Zyaed Aljazzaf 
    Ahmed Saif Ahmed Isa Alkaabi
    Arif Feroz Shah Murad Qalunder Ghulam
    Mohamed Abdulrahman Yusuf Alkawari
    Khaled Ali Hasan Ebrashim Hasan Aldossery
    Abdulaziz Rafea Abhar Khalaf Alabed
    Khahed Sultan Mohamed Abdulla Alsheerawi
    Murad Mohamed Yusuf Abdulsayed
    Ebrahim Ali Salem Jaber
    Saud Hamad Mubarak Hamed Eid
    Mohamed Isa Abdulla Yusuf Alqais


expid: AMAD21101
peakid: AMAD
year: 2021
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Giampaolo Corona
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks International Ama Dablam Expedition 2021
smtdate: 2021-04-28
smttime: 1145
campsites: Smt(28-30/04)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
countries:
  Ecuador, Finland, Germany, India, Iraq, Israel, Jordan, Kenya, Kyrgyz Republic, Nepal, Norway, Romania, Russia

routememo:
  Report from Giampaolo Corona (7 May 2021):

  BC(19/04,4600m),C1(25/04,5800m),Smt(29/04

  Climbed alone. Left C1 at 3:30 am, summited at 11:45 am, stayed 1 hour, then descended to C1 arriving at 6:00 pm. Bad weather during last part of ascent and in descent. Left BC on 4 May. Also climbed Lobuche East.


  Report from James Muhia (3 May 2021):

  BC(27/04,4600m),C1(28/04,5600m),Smt(29/04),C2(29/04,5900m)

  Climbed alone from C1 (Sherpa stayed in C1). Left C1 at 3:15 am, summited at 4:15 pm, stayed 10 minutes, then descended to C2 arriving at 11:45 pm. Heavy snow in afternoon.

  From Muhia's Facebook post:

  THE MOST INTENSE 30 MINUTES of the entire Ama Dablam experience. 

  BACKGROUND: Ama Dablam is not your everyday mountain. It's rated 5D in technical difficulty; with steep and vertical mixed rock, ice and snow climbing. When I decided to push for the summit from camp 1, my climbing Sherpa was not in full agreement because of the risks of a long day/exposure. All things considered (especially the weather forecast), this was my best chance to get to the summit and I assumed all the risks. I was not worried about acclimatization since I had been running on top of Kilimanjaro barely a week earlier. The day was long alright, with a 4:15 pm summit. Most of the decent would be in darkness; alone.

  After descending afew meters, I dropped/lost my abseiling/belay device (ATC). I had a figure 8 which I continued to use to descend slowly, until I got stuck mid-rope, on what seemed like an overhang. I tried to give weight and tag on the device but I couldn't move an inch. Maybe because the rope was frozen or because the rope was not going straight down but a bit horizontal to a sort of a traverse. I tried to swing to get hold of a rock. Nothing. After about 10 minutes I was exhausted. I panicked. I screamed. Then I calmed down. I let go of the rope and I was just hanging suspended upside down by the harness. I felt a strange calmness and warmth and I though maybe I could hang up there until morning and hope the 2 guys I had left at camp 3 will find me on their way down in the morning. As I hang there I was not worried. I knew there was a way out, I just couldn't figure it out yet. I reached inside the inner breast pocket of my jacket to get out my phone to record a message. Instead, I pulled out a photo of my daughter (I always carry my kids photos on these expeditions. They remind me I need to get back. Safely). They say fathers and daughters have a special bond. I agree. As I stared and smiled at her face I remembered I had a jumar/ascender and immediately I knew what I needed to do. It would be exhausting and extremely painful, but it got me to camp 2.


  Report from Katrin Glashauser (2 May 2021):

  BC(17/04,4600m),C1(24/04,5500m),C2(28/04,5900m),xxx(29/04,6400m)

  Team of Glashauser (with Jangbu Sherpa), Stregell (with Khungbu Sherpa), and Elisa Barba (with another Sherpa) reached 6400m on 29 April, then turned back due bad weather. Weather was OK (only partly cloudy) until 7:00 am. Then heavy snowstorm started at ~9.00 am and forced the expedition team to turn back to C2, where Glashauser and Strengell spent the night, whereas Barba went back to basecamp during the same day.

  Machado quit due to exhaustion before C2 at 550mm on 29 Apr and went back to basecamp due to exhaustion. Team left BC 1 May.


expid: AMAD21102
peakid: AMAD
year: 2021
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Andrew Cove
sponsor: Satori Adventures Ama Dablam Expedition 2021
countries: Belarus, Hungary, Kyrgyz Republic, Russia, Ukraine
smtdate: 2021-04-28
smttime: 1300
campsites: Smt(28/04,09/05)
agency: Satori Adventures
routememo:
  Notes from Petro Shamborovskyi:

  Route: Pangboche(4000m), ABC(24/04,5300m), C1(25/04,5800m), C2(26/04,6000m), 
            C3(27/04,6400m), Smt(28/04)

  Russian-Ukrainian-Belarussian team left C3 at 5 am, summited at 1 pm, stayed 30 minutes, then descended to C3. The weather was good, partly cloudy with more clouds at the summit. Quite a lot of ice, what made climbing more complicated.

  No Sherpas, no oxygen.

  This team were SST members on a Satori Adventures permit.

  From Oleg Ivanchenko's Extreme Guide Facebook page:

  Ama Dablam 6812m - there is a summit! We managed to get out of the weather window and before the snowfalls.

  Chronicles of the guide Oleg Ivanchenko. Ama Dablam is "scary beautiful". The magnet peak, which is looked at, everyone who was on the track to Everest, and many dream of climbing.

  Two members from our group were in Nepal for the first time and of course did not understand the "beauty" of Ama-Dublam until the end. And for the other two, this is the second attempt at climbing: Igor Korovin and Rostislav Khrapko. Everyone's motivation was different and we went up.

  In the last two years that I have not been to Ama Dablam, the relief has changed a lot. What became clear when we went to Island Peak. There is almost no ice and snow on the route above 6000m. Cats (crampons) need to be dressed as needed. "Mushroom ridge" is no more, there is a rock comb and a little ice downstairs. Before heading out on stage 6400m (Camp 3) cool takeoff and even the vertical ice stage where we used the pedal. Above C3 ice and rocks. In places, the ice is up to 50-60°, Bergshrund opened before the top.

  Soon Ama Dablam will be such a Matterhorn, which will be able to walk in normal shoes and without cats.

  Due to dry winter and low-snow spring, the main danger on the mountain is the probability of stonefall. We were lucky as we came out after the snowfalls and all the stones were under the snow, and the temperature fell.

  Every season the railings (ropes) on Ama Dablam are updated (during the season they are very rubbed, or hidden in the ice, the glacier relief changes and new ones need to be hung).

  A little intrigue before the start on the mountain was that the ropes may not have time to spend the assault day. The season in Nepal this year is short and all the efforts of Sherpa are on Everest and Lhotse. The renewal of ropes on the mountain began just during our vacation before the mountain. While we were going to the top, we brought the ropes to C3 and to the top, but the last 100m through Bergshrund remained.

  So that for sure and with stock we decided to start from Camp 3 (6400m) to the top. The option to walk from C2 (6000) is quite exhausting, leaving no later than 0:00, descent to camp after the mountain in the bright time of the day is problematic, sometimes climbing from C2-top-C2 takes more than 20 hours. The probability of mistakes in the dark time of day on the descent is very high. In addition, the exit from C3 can be planned at 3:00-4:00. What we did.

  Bergshrund and to the top hanged together with a Sherpa who led Hindu with oxygen using the found ends of the rope on the route and his gear. On the mountain we were alone + Sherpa and Hindu. Unfortunately, we did not see panorama on the Himalayan ridge - it was dragged by clouds.

  Our route: Pangboche-ABC (frontline base camp), C1 (5800m), C2 (6000m), C3 (6400m), summit, C3, C1, Pangboche.

  If you talk about the climbing and the technical part starts from Camp 5800m (C1) and to the top, and then not a quick descent through the same camps. On the descent we got into snowfall and quickly we couldn't leave the mountain. We spent 7 days on the mountain. Cargo drop for porters up to 5800m, above everything is autonomous and on yourself.

  Part of the group is already in Kathmandu, and Petro Shamborovskyi and I are recovering strength and licking wounds in Namche Bazar.


