# exped

expid: CHOY91302
peakid: CHOY
year: 1991
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: USA
leaders: Jerome Edward Kennedy
sponsor: Americans on Cho Oyu
ascent1: 93rd
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1991-08-31
smtdate: 1991-09-29
termdate: 1991-10-10
accidents: Kennedy serious HAPE and frostbite on Oct 1; Clark serious frostbite
achievment: 1st women on top
agency: Wilderness Experience
campsites:
  BC(31/08),ABC(07/09,5670m),C1(09/09,5975m),C2(12/09,6400m),C3(20/09,7070m),C4(28/09,7400m),Smt(29/09)

routememo:
  ABC occupied after a week because of altitude sickness of 5 members. 1st summit bid on 29th by all but 1 member who went no higher than C3. Up from C4 on 29th and got to summit plateau at just over 8000m. Kennedy turned back (knew something wrong but did not realize what and then unaware feet freezing). Dietz and Clark not much higher and back tired. Had started 8:15 am Nepali Time; other 4 to top. 1 Oct Kennedy got high altitude sickness in C4 and others tied him to a line and told him to go down to C3 which he managed to do; had gotten dehydrated and therefore frostbite and HAPE. Kennedy and all down to C1 and Kennedy to ABC. 

  Clark on 4th tried solo attempt from C1 to C3; 5th tried for top from C3, reached plateau again and down because of cold and wind. 

  No more climbing: had called for yaks to be at ABC on 6th and left ABC 6th including Clark. Left Chinese BC at about 9:00 am Nepalese time and arrived KTM midnight 10th.


  Cynthia T. Kennedy, Jerry's wife - 10 Nov 2005 (letter to Miss Hawley)

  Fourteen years later, Jerry still has open wounds on his feet that require daily tending.


expid: CHOY91310
peakid: CHOY
year: 1991
route1: SE Ridge-E Ridge
nation: USSR
leaders: Sergei Efimov
sponsor: Russian Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 98th
approach: Gokyo Valley
bcdate: 1991-09-22
smtdate: 1991-10-20
smttime: 1100
achievment: 1st ascent of E Ridge
agency: Mustang
campsites:
  BC(22/09,5100m),C1(23/09,5200m),C2(27/09,6200m),C3(29/09,6950m),C4(08/10,7750m),C5(19/10,7900m),Smt(20/10)

routememo:
  BC at between 2 lakes, northeast of Gyazumpa on Schneider map.

  Fixed rope: 100m icefall below C2 and 120m just befor C2, 400m between C2 and C3, 730m C3 to C4, 320m between C4 and C5 and 80m above C5. Above C5, stayed on ridge and into gully stayed on border, from west and of gully climbed/traversed on Tibetain side for 200m before rejoining border ridge to summit and gully is 70m deep from eastern lip to bottom - gully was mixed rock and ice and snow (rock not hard, would shatter, but found some points where could fix bolts). This area's N and S faces were rock 3000m from top of ridge down to very steep snow and same snow on top of ridge. Very steep rock faces also in section beyond gully in another step before final climb to summit. On Tibet side of gully is couloir. Far west side of gully was a shelf which used in traverse. This traverse was most difficult part of entire climb and was very difficult - faces 80 degrees perhaps in this area. After C4 established, all down for rest; first to go beyond C4 started this section on 15th Oct to see route and fix ropes. On 18th Oct on attempt made from C4 to top but when reached 7900m (beyond gully) realized now, at 1:00 pm was too late to reach top and return in daylight and to climb after dark "very hard work" so decided to cancel this attempt. 

  On 19th next summit party take from C4 equipment to make C5 (this removed C4 to make C5) - arrived at C5 site at 3:00 pm and fixed 100m rope before spending night at C5. 20th Oct left C5 at 8:00 am and reached summit around 11:00 am and down 12:50 pm. Besides 5 summiters, doctor also tried for summit and reached 8000m; tired and fingers begining to freeze (he was surgeon) so turned back and he returned to C5 at 1:30 pm with 1st 3 summiters. All slept in C5 that night.

  21st C5 tent left there and took sleeping bags to descend to C3 and 5 summiters slept in C3 but doctor hit by falling stone when he had climbed up 15m to get out of gully; he was not wearing helmet and hit on forehead (had not expected to need helmets above C3 and none taken up there) and lived only a minute (had several inches deep wound). Had to leave body in sleeping bag on shelf in gully because impossible to carry it down to C3 (trying to move body, Pershin got frozen fingers and used oxygen that night in C3; finger tips are black now but will heal now).

accidents:
  Timofeev hit by falling rock & top of head wounded (no helmet); Pogorelov had painful nerve problem in one leg, rested in BC one week and resumed climb; Pershin frostbite; doctor's fatal rock fall


expid: CHOY91309
peakid: CHOY
year: 1991
route1: W Ridge-W Face from S
nation: France
leaders: Michel Zalio
sponsor: Cho Oyu French Expedition
ascent1: 94th,97th
approach: From Nepalese side of Nangpa La
bcdate: 1991-09-21
smtdate: 1991-10-04
othersmts: Climbed Cho Rausang
campsites: BC(21/09,5400m),C1(26/09,6000m),C2(01/10,6600m),C3(03/10,7100m),Smt(04-05/10)
accidents: LO incipient edema
agency: Sherpa Trekking Service (STS)
routememo:
  BC west of point 6296m
  C1 near "c" of Gyabrag Glacier on Schneider map.

  All members reached C3 and also LO. 

  LO Kamal Bhandari, Manang instructor, tried for top on 4th and 5th reached 7300m, turned back tired and beginning to have edema (hands and face swollen); other 2 members not above C3 (tired). 

  After Cho Oyu climb went to Thami where met trekking group and with them made a camp at Nangpa 16th Oct. 17th Oct climbed Cho Rausang (6600m) by West Face: not very difficult and from top have fine view of Tibet and Cho Oyu. Climbers were roped together but no fixed rope. Face entirely snow except for 30m of ice.


expid: CHOY91306
peakid: CHOY
year: 1991
route1: W Ridge-W Face from S
nation: USSR
leaders: Viatcheslav Skripko
sponsor: Soviet-Bulgarian Expedition to Cho Oyu
ascent1: 94th,95th
countries: Bulgaria
bcdate: 1991-09-17
smtdate: 1991-09-29
smttime: 1715
campsites: BC(17/09,5200m),C1(19/09,5900m),C2(26/09,6600m),C3(28/09,7200m),Smt(29/09,01/10)
accidents: Skripko frostbite in toes on both feet but probably will heal
agency: Mustang
routememo:
  BC at below Kangchung's correct site
  C1 across Nangpa La
  C2 at same US C2 this autumn.

  After C2 made, descended for rest at BC. Skripko and his USSR teammates reached summit 5:15 NST and in ascent met descending Americans and slept in American camp at 7500m. Skripko frostbite on all toes probably during night of 29/30 Sept.

  Skripko certain summit date was 29th since it was day after Mojaev's birthday.


expid: CHOY91304
peakid: CHOY
year: 1991
route1: W side from N
nation: Hong Kong
leaders: David Lam
ascent1: 89th
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1991-09-09
smtdate: 1991-09-28
termdate: 1991-10-01
campsites: BC(09/09,5400m),C4(7550m),Smt(28/09)
accidents: One member altitude sickness; nothing else
routememo:
  Only one of the Hong Kong Chinese members did any climbing: Lam reached 8150m with Tsindin [Chuldin] Temba on 28 Sept. One other got altitude sickness, left BC for lower altitude and returned to BC. Team's C1, C2 and C3 were below Japanese camps, hence their need to have C4. Left BC 1st Oct, 2 days before Japanese.

  This team was on Japanese permit and shared ABC but ABC were separate party.


expid: CHOY91301
peakid: CHOY
year: 1991
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: Taiwan
leaders: Gau Ming-Ho
sponsor: Chinese-Taipei Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 1991-08-11
smtdate: 1991-09-04
termdate: 1991-09-13
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to deep snow and exhaustion
accidents: Wang slight frostbite on toe
achievment: 1st Taiwanese attempt any 8000er
agency: Namche
campsites:
  ChineseBC(11/08),ABC(15/08,5700m),C1(20/08,6300m),C2(24/08,6700m),C3(01/09,7150m),C4(03/09,7400m),C5(07/09,7500m),xxx(04/09,7800m)

routememo:
  4 Sept summit attack from C4 and reached 7800m by Chen Chiu-Hsia, Wang Chin-Jung, Wangchu Sherpa and Gelje Sherpa. 

  7th Sept another camp pitched because C4 too low and 1st team took 10 hrs to reach 7800m. Could put C5 only 100m [higher] because waist-deep snow meant it took 5 hrs to pitch this camp. 7 Sept another attack by Chen Chiu-Hsia, Wang Chin-Jung, Huang Su-Wen and Karma Sherpa from C5 but reached only 7700m before thick clouds and snowfalling and Karma double shoe broken so back to C5 only. 

  9 Sept 3rd attempt by same 3 members only from C5. Reached just 7600m with very deep snow, new snow falling and were very tired. Left ABC 13 Sept and flew to KTM from Lhasa. 

  Were many avalanches on face so climbed direct route above C3.

  Use of oxygen - 1st attack team during descent to C4.
                  3rd attack team in C5 after return from attempt.


expid: CHOY91307
peakid: CHOY
year: 1991
route1: W Ridge-W Face from S
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Jakob Reichen
ascent1: 87th w/Ita
bcdate: 1991-09-18
smtdate: 1991-09-25
smttime: 0845
campsites: BC(18/09),Smt(25/09)
routememo:
  Jakob Riechen arrived at ABC with one Sherpa. Reichen had a Nepalese trekking permit only and all gear/supplies they had were what they carried themselves; on 25th Sept he left for Spanish-Italian-Polish team's C2 at 1 am and reached summit with Christian Kuntner (who started from higher camp) at 8:45 am.


  Reichen - 22 May 2002  

  He crossed from Nepal via Nangpa La illegally to Tibet and climbed Cho Oyu without Sherpas or oxygen. He met Christian Kuntner and Wanda Rutkiewicz on the mountain and went to summit the same day as they.


expid: CHOY91305
peakid: CHOY
year: 1991
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: Japan
leaders: Tadao Kanzaki
sponsor: Cho Oyu Silver Turtle Expedition
ascent1: 90th,92nd
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1991-09-09
smtdate: 1991-09-28
termdate: 1991-10-03
campsites: ABC(09/09,5400m),C1(12/09,6400m),C2(24/09,7000m),C3(27/09,7550m),Smt(28-29/09)
accidents: None
agency: Himalayan Journeys
routememo:
  Japanese party arrived at summit 28 Sept after Europeans, who probably reached only 1st Summit. Left BC 3 Oct.

  Hong Kong Chinese were on same permit and shared same ABC, but on mountain were separate and are not included here.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Nima Temba (Lukla), already scaled Kangchanjunga (3 times)
    Mingma Norbu (Beding), aleady scaled Everest (N), 1990 Xixabangma
    Pemba Norbu (Namche), already scaled Everest 1977, Lhotse 1983


expid: PUMO91306
peakid: PUMO
year: 1991
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiroshi Nakamura
sponsor: Osaka Alpine Club Pumori Expedition 1991
ascent1: 74th
bcdate: 1991-10-09
smtdate: 1991-10-16
campsites: BC(09/10,5200m),C1(5700m),C2(15/10,6200m),Smt(16/10)
accidents: None
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC near lake
  C1 only for deposit (not slept in).

  Only Nakamura and 1 Sherpa to top. Other 2 climbing members too tired when arrived on 16th Oct at C2 to go higher. 6 hrs C2 to top and back to C2 (4 hrs C2 to top) on 16th.


expid: PUMO91302
peakid: PUMO
year: 1991
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Malcolm Duff
sponsor: Ascent Pumori Expedition
ascent1: 68th,70th w/Ger
countries: Iceland
bcdate: 1991-09-28
smtdate: 1991-10-07
campsites: BC(28/09,5200m),C1(30/09,5400m),C2(03/10,6100m),Smt(07,09/10)
accidents: None except fatal fall
achievment: 1st confirmed Icelander to summit
agency: Rover Treks
routememo:
  BC near lake
  C1 at small rib at start of climb
  C2 at top of rib.

  Dangerous above C2 to col (serac falling) but easy if one goes very fast. On descent from col, German Breuer was coming behind Gunnarsson, but no one saw Gunnarsson start his fall: could have been hit by ice block, could have misstepped. Fell from 6700 to 5300m altitude & found body in 5 pieces at bottom, where much avalanche debris collects and will be covered by more debris soon. A third summit party was a day behind Gunnarsson but gave up final attempt after his fall.

  Joe Simpson in "This Game of Ghosts" states (pp 309-310) that Gunnarsson was struck on the head by a falling ice block 100 ft above C2 and fell hundreds of feet down. Accident was witnessed by German climber.


expid: PUMO91301
peakid: PUMO
year: 1991
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Noel Roche
sponsor: Pumori 1991
ascent1: 65th
bcdate: 1991-09-03
smtdate: 1991-09-15
smttime: 1100
campsites: BC(03/09,5300m),C1(07/09,5800m),C2(09/09,6400m),Smt(15/09)
accidents: Only fatal avalanche
agency: Sherpa Society
routememo:
  BC near lake
  C2 at top of a buttress (normal site).

  Fixed rope from C1 to C2 only. Route led to big pass and then towards summit around seracs, etc. ("not a good ridge"). After C2 established, all to BC. Summit push began 12th Sept. To C1 that night by 4 members and 2 Sherpas. 14th all 6 to C2. On 15th Feruglio, Laurenceau, Roche and Dawa leave C2 at 3:00 am because snow conditions better: at 6:30 am sun is on SE Face and reached top at 11:00 am together and all Ok. But at 7:30-8:00 am avalanche hit Marigot, Saidi and Gyalzen at about 6600m when small avalanche came from face down small gullies; had left C2 6:30 am because Saidi and Gyalzen slightly sick from stomach. Roche told them to stay in camp, but Marigot came up from C1 and urged Saidi and Gyalzen down (roped together but Marigot not roped to them, was 15m from them). Marigot stayed on face waiting for summit party but radioed to Everest BC about avalanche and 4 Sherpas. Pivot and wife (Dr.) reached Pumori BC 9:00-10:00 am, saw 2 bodies on face from Everest BC. Bodies at same altitude as C1 but very dangerous to go to them because of dangerous unstable seracs. Next day bodies covered by more avalanches.


expid: PUMO91308
peakid: PUMO
year: 1991
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Philippe Djoharikian
sponsor: L'Attitude Extreme to Pumori
bcdate: 1991-10-31
smtdate: 1991-11-08
termdate: 1991-11-09
termnote: Abandoned at 6950m due to falling seracs
campsites: BC(31/10,5300m),C1(03/11,6100m),C2(07/11,6800m),xxx(08/11,6950m)
accidents: Labrousse sick (on antibiotics, dizzy at C1 and went down)
agency: Sherpa Society
routememo:
  BC at normal site near lake
  C1 at top of rib
  C2 on SE Face
  High point at SE Face.

  During night at C2 wakened by falling serac every 2 hours coming from route above camp via chute. Would have to move very fast across this area which would not have been able to do. So on 8th Nov after going up a bit to take pictures went down and climbing finished. Additional factor was the wind. This was self-supporting group of friends on very limited budget. As they approached BC, they met same climbers coming away who spoke of technical difficulty on Pumori and found in BC area memorials to climbers who had died on it. This was rather unsettling.


expid: PUMO91305
peakid: PUMO
year: 1991
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: Venezuela
leaders: Armando Michelangeli
sponsor: Terramar Foundation Expedition to Himalayas - to Pumori
ascent1: 72nd,73rd
countries: USA
bcdate: 1991-10-07
smtdate: 1991-10-12
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(07/10,5400m),C1(07/10,5750m),C2(11/10,6250m),Smt(12-13/10)
achievment: 1st Latvian American attempt and success
agency: Ama Dablam Trekking
routememo:
  BC above lake and across hills
  C1 only for deposit (never slept in).

  Went to Island Peak before making BC for Pumori & 5 reached top on 4th Oct. 

  1st summit party returned C2 5 pm; problem with strong wind blowing powder snow, driving snow into faces "really horrible." 13th Oct winds less severe but there still C1 to C2 steep & very icy. C2 to shoulder not technically difficult but dangerous from big avalanches 4-5 times daily (4 am on 13th Oct high avalanche & another 10 mins after summiters had crossed avalanche area): "we were very nervous" but nonetheless climbed. Saw one falling to his death (not caused by avalanche but lost his balance).

  On Island Peak Avardo slipped and broke one rib before attempt on this peak and was exhausted immediately.

accidents:
  None on Pumori; on Island Peak Alvardo slipped and broke one rib before attempt on this peak and was evacuated immediately


expid: PUMO91304
peakid: PUMO
year: 1991
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Bruno Waldmann
sponsor: Austrian-German-Swiss Pumori Expedition
ascent1: 71st
countries: Germany, Switzerland
bcdate: 1991-10-04
smtdate: 1991-10-11
smttime: 1100
campsites: BC(04/10,5300m),C1(05/10,5750m),C2(07/10,6200m),Smt(11/10)
accidents: None
agency: Dhaulagiri Trek House
routememo:
  BC same as British and Germans
  C1 same as British and Germans
  C2 same as British and Germans.

  Saw fatal accident of Icelander due to exhaustion and were careful not to push selves to limit. Did not make a 2nd attack on summit because of danger above C2. Was very happy cooperation with other teams on mtn and who would go up when very good weather. Had moved quickly up on mtn for fear weather would deteriorate. 

  On 11 Oct were 3 members: left camp at 4 am, 2 members reached col and up ridge to 6900-7000m and stopped there because wanted to save strength for safe descent, especially in view of Icelander's fall. Waited here for Koeblinger, who reached summit alone at about 11 am and rejoined at C2 after he was seen descending. He arrived at 2 pm at C2. 

  Other 3 members went only to C1. Were afraid of dangers on upper part of route and Mueller and Ruffiner left BC on 8 Oct.


expid: PUMO91307
peakid: PUMO
year: 1991
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Pierre Taule
sponsor: Cani Gou Alpine Club Expedition Pumori
ascent1: 75th
bcdate: 1991-10-18
smtdate: 1991-10-25
termdate: 1991-10-26
campsites: BC(18/10,5300m),C1(21/10,6200m),Smt(25/10)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Glacier Safari Treks
routememo:
  Only 2 on top because others tired. Only Murat to C1: other 9 reached near C1 & turned back because of altitude problems. Left BC 26th Oct.


expid: PUMO91303
peakid: PUMO
year: 1991
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Michael Roepke
sponsor: DAV Pumori Expedition
ascent1: 67th,69th,70th
countries: Austria, Switzerland
bcdate: 1991-09-30
smtdate: 1991-10-06
smttime: 1030
termdate: 1991-10-13
campsites: BC(30/09,5300m),C1(04/10,5750m),C2(04/10,6200m),Smt(06,08-09/10)
accidents: None
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC near lake.

  Pitched tents at C1 and C2 on 2nd and 3rd Oct. On 6th Oct Finkbeiner and Roepke left C2 4 am and 10:30 am on top and in BC 3 pm. Went first to fix ropes above C2 and see route. On 9th summiters (Breuer and Icelander Gunnarsson) from C1 at 4:00 am to top at noon and back to C2. Breuer reached C2 at 4:00 pm while Gunnarsson fell just above C2; went down East Face and body found by Roepke on 10th in pieces; brought down by avalanche on 10th. On 10th Breuer reached BC after the avalanche which brought body down. Left BC 13th Oct.


expid: AMAD91302
peakid: AMAD
year: 1991
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Michel Pelle
sponsor: Terres d'Adventure to Ama Dablam
ascent1: 91st
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 1991-10-16
smtdate: 1991-10-25
termdate: 1991-10-29
campsites: BC(16/10,4600m),C1(18/10,5800m),C2(23/10,6100m),C3(24/10,6300m),Smt(25/10)
accidents: Mangel sick; one member slightly frostbitten toes (black but will heal)
agency: Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
routememo:
  BC at normal site near Mingbo.

  After made C1 and 19th down, 2 days in BC and directly to top then. Left BC 22nd, slept in C1, 23rd in C2 after technically difficult route, and 24th took 2 tents on to make C3. 25th to top and slept in C3. BC on 26th. Left BC 29th morning. 

  Members were clients. Chotel to C1 only: old and not technical climber.


expid: AMAD91301
peakid: AMAD
year: 1991
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Norbert Joos
sponsor: Swiss Ama Dablam
ascent1: 87th-90th
countries: Germany, UK
bcdate: 1991-10-04
smtdate: 1991-10-12
termdate: 1991-10-20
campsites: BC(04/10,4570m),C1(05/10,5750m),C2(11/10,6300m),Smt(12-14,17/10)
accidents: None except Lochmatter lung problem (he said inflation)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC near Mingbo
  C2 on SW Rridge.

  South face too dangerous from big rocks falling so went to SW Ridge for entire climb of normal route. No problems on climb: 2 did not summit because one was sick and other not capable enough climber. 6 members left before climbing finished because their climbing had finished. Joos summited a second time because his friend Marugg had been silently sick earlier and now wanted to go to the top. Last 4 members at BC left it 20 Oct.


expid: AMAD91304
peakid: AMAD
year: 1991
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Gilles Buisson
sponsor: Ama Dablam 1991
ascent1: 92nd
countries: Italy
bcdate: 1991-10-24
smtdate: 1991-11-03
termdate: 1991-11-06
campsites: BC(24/10,4600m),Dep(27/10,5800m),C1(01/11,6000m),C2(02/11,6350m),Smt(03/11)
accidents: None
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC near Mingbo normal site.

  Bellasio only to C2; extremely tired. Summiters to top from C3 and slept there that night. 3 French expeditions used Swiss fixed rope and had no climbing problems.

  Left BC 6 Nov; had acclimatized on Kalapattar before going to Ama Dablam.


expid: AMAD91303
peakid: AMAD
year: 1991
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Michel Richard
sponsor: French Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 92nd-94th
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 1991-10-22
smtdate: 1991-11-03
campsites: BC(22/10,4600m),C1(28/10,5800m),C2(29/10,6000m),C3(30/10,6300m),Smt(03-04,09/11)
accidents: Cosson slightly frostbitten toes and fingers; nothing else
agency: Tip & Top Trekking
routememo:
  BC near Mingbo normal site.

  All members reached C3; beyond there some had trouble with technical difficulties. 

  Lecompte summited with Buisson and Males of French-Italian expedition.


expid: NUPT91301
peakid: NUPT
year: 1991
route1: SW Ridge-S Rib
nation: Sweden
leaders: Magnus Lekman
sponsor: Freedom - to Nuptse
bcdate: 1991-10-17
smtdate: 1991-10-18
termdate: 1991-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to difficult route, wind, lack of strength, equipment and time
campsites: BC(17/10,5100m),C1(18/10,6500m),xxx(18/10,6500m)
accidents: 1 Sherpa sick (stomach & fever)
agency: Dhaulagiri Trek House
routememo:
  BC at Nuptse Glacier below and south of ridge
  C1 at small plateau north of this W-E ridge
  High point at C1.

  BC was below and south of Ridge that starts between points 6543m and 6823m. Climbed up this ridge to small plateau north of this ridge where C1 pitched. Went no further because agency had not provided enough equipment for more camps, Sherpa sick and Lekman slightly so. Sherpas said 2 months needed to climb such difficult route which descends and again ascends. Lekman reached C1 on 21st and went to BC same day. Again to C1 on 24th and found tent and its contents had been blown away and retreated to BC (Sherpas had made C1 3 days before Lekman 1st reached it).


expid: LHOT91301
peakid: LHOT
year: 1991
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Peter Athans
sponsor: American Lhotse Expedition
bcdate: 1991-10-01
smtdate: 1991-10-10
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to winds
campsites: BC(01/10,5350m),C1(05/10,6100m),C2(06/10,6500m),C3(08/10,7200m),xxx(10/10,7600m)
accidents: None
agency: Arniko Travel
routememo:
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  High point on West Face.

  Expected more support from Nepalese team in exchange for American's oxygen but they did not carry gear to C2 as expected. Made C3 and had high cache at 7600m top of yellow band; pitched C3 10th Oct. Oxygen cached next day but never slept above 6500m. Didn't need to sleep higher till making summit bid. 13th started for C3 with plan to summit later that night but winds strong and sign posted at BC indicated that icefall would be closed on 16th, so took down all gear from C2 and C3 to C1 then found it to be open longer - gave up. Team had reached BC late because because planned climb of Cho Oyu from Tibet fell through and they decided to try Lhotse after that.

  Lhotse very dry and lot of bare rock and blue ice. Whole of Lhotse Face "blinking blue ice." Icefall huge crevasses; so with partner and rope Athans would have gone for Lhotse summit but not alone (Athans not soloist, likes sharing experiences with someone else).


expid: PUMO91309
peakid: PUMO
year: 1991
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Juan Fernando Azcona
sponsor: Gipuzkopako Lhotse-Pumori Expedition
ascent1: 66th
bcdate: 1991-08-27
smtdate: 1991-09-18
termdate: 1991-10-07
othersmts: Attempted W Face of Lhotse (LHOT-913-02)
campsites: BC(27/08),C1(16/09,5700m),C2(17/09,6200m),Smt(18/09)
accidents: Zubaikar cerebral edema (this only)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
primid: LHOT91302
routememo:
  Arrieta, Azcona, Lasarte and Ulazia intended to scale Lhotse and arrived at that BC 27th Aug, established C1 2 Sept at 6000m, C2 6th Sept at 6500m by 4 members. 15th Sept down to BC and 16th Sept to Pumori directly to C1 (French reported 15th good conditions on Pumori despite accident later in the day). 

  Goni and Zulaika arrived Lhotse BC 4th Sept, but Zulaika got sick and both down to Pheriche. They returned to BC 17th for Pumori and tried for its summit 24th Sept and reached 100m from top, snow very deep, they were tired, moving slowly, cold in clouds. 

  Meanwhile successful Pumori men returned to Lhotse BC 20th Sept and made C3 23rd Sept at 7300m and down to BC because of wind. 

  Try for summit: left BC 28th Sept & 30th Sept up to C3 but too much wind to move up from C3 on 1st Oct as planned so down to C2. 3rd Oct again to C3 and 4th reached yellow band at 7650m: now only Arrieta and Azcona and Azcona now feeling unwell (no food) and climb finished for all except Arrieta who stayed at BC with Spanish Everest. Tried for summit on 10th Oct but did not get above C2 because of wind and he too gave up. 5 members left BC 7th Oct.


expid: EVER91307
peakid: EVER
year: 1991
route1: Khumbutse-W Ridge (to 7699m)
route2: S Col-SE Ridge (to 6700m)
nation: Poland
leaders: Alexander Lwow
sponsor: Polish Jack Wolfskin Everest Expedition 1991
countries: Australia, Germany, USA
bcdate: 1991-09-02
smtdate: 1991-10-02
termdate: 1991-10-16
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to wind
othersmts: Khumbutse
campsites: BC(02/09,5450m),C1(18/09,5950m),C2(24/09,6900m),C3(02/10,7600m),xxx(02/10,7600m)
accidents: None
agency: Atlas
routememo:
  BC at bottom of Icefall
  C1 at Rongbuk Glacier below Khumbutse and below North Spur from West Shoulder
  C2 about 250m below West Shoulder
  C3 at east end of West Shoulder
  High point at West Shoulder.

  Started fixing route on 4th Sept and finished it 18th Sept: same route as successful Poles 1989 Spring up over Khumbutse and down couloir to Banglark glacier, using 1500m of rope. From C1 fixed rope from bottom of N Spur to middle of spur. C2 placed in crevasse for protection from strong winds. Climbing shoulder very difficult because half-meter deep powder snow. 3 Oct went down according to plan: returned to 7200m on 11th Oct, but couldn't reach C3 because of wind and abandoned attempt on W Ridge and expedition ended. 

  2 members left BC 5 Oct (had had enough), one member left 13 Oct (Lwow had decided expedition finished) and last 2 members left BC 17 Oct.

  On 15 Oct Lwow and Klimine of USSR-US expedition left BC and reached 6700m (USSR-US C2) on the normal route, slept there and 16th brought down equipment. Lwow had hoped to go on up but wind of 15/16 night and 16th morning prevented upward climb so now on 16th Lwow abandoned Everest.

  Lwow says German nor any member of this team climbed Pumori, but Mal Duff says one member did about 1 Oct.


expid: EVER91311
peakid: EVER
year: 1991
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
route2: W Cwm-W Ridge (to 8100m+)
nation: USSR
leaders: Vladamir Balyberdin
sponsor: Himalaya 1991 Expedition of USSR - to Everest
ascent1: 128,129
countries: Ukraine, USA
bcdate: 1991-09-17
smtdate: 1991-10-07
smttime: 1500
othersmts: Pumori (?)
accidents: Nothing expect Kopeika lungs and chest problem
agency: Mustang
campsites:
  BC(17/09,5350m),C1(25/09,6100m),C1(23/09,6400m),C2(24/09,6800m),C3(02/10,7300m),C4(30/09,7900m),Smt(07,10/10)

routememo:
  C1 by Kopeika
  C1 by Davis & Boukreev (removed after C2 established)
  C2 at bergschrund at bottom of Lhotse Face (by Balyberdin & Boukreev)
  C2 on Lhotse Face (made and used only by Kopeika group)
  C3 on Lhotse Face (made and used only by Kopeika group)
  C4 at South Col (pitched by Balyberdin group).

  Camp made at S Col by Balyberdin, Boukreev and Cooney group on 30th Sept and down to BC next day because of acclimatization needs. These 3 rested at BC 3 days and all 3 started up 5th Oct and went to C2 at 6800m; 6th Oct to S Col; 7th Oct started from C4 8:00 am. Boukreev reached summit at 3:00 pm and returned to col 6:00 pm while Balyberdin on top at 5:30 pm and back at 8:00 pm. All down to BC 8th Oct. Boukreev found on summit a small cross (3") in snow; cross left by Spaniard day before. This group rested, Cooney left BC 9th Oct (was enough for him in his 1st time in Himalaya and he headed for Thai beach to rest there). 12th Oct Balyberdin wanted to do one day ascent and started at midnight and at Geneva spur 11:00 am, but met Kopeika who descending from col said very strong wind above col and both descend to BC that day. Boukreev continued up and 13th Oct 8:00 am at 8300m and turned back because of very strong wind; reached BC 5:00 pm 13th. Balyberdin on 17th Oct 6:00 am up from BC to go to C2 to clear this camp but now saw weather improving so decided to go for top but his crampons and 2 heavy down jackets no longer in camp; 11:00 am in C2, 8:00 pm reached S Col without crampons 11:00 pm at 8300m - now wind changed from coming from west, now from south and now above rocks and hard snow: without campons impossible to continue; waited till morning in sleeping bag in snow till morning and then down; no frostbite at all; down to C2 only because must have crampons to go through Icefall in one day (on 17th Sherpas removed ropes and ladders) so big problem." On 19th at 5900m drop his rucksack and manages Icefall without crampons and reached BC in 1-1/2 hrs by very indirect route. 20th Balyberdin and Klimine go up to retrieve his rucksack. This group never used oxygen.


  Kopeika group (Kopeika, Giutachvilli, Klimine, Kulishova and Mazur)

  Made C1 at 6100m on 25th Sept; 26th to 6800m; 27th BC. 1O Oct to 6800m; 2 Oct established C3 at 7300m; 3 Oct 3 members slept at S Col and 2 members slept at C3. 4th Oct all to BC (normal acclimatization). 7th Oct all 5 to C2; 8th Oct 2 members to C3 and another 1 member to BC; 9th Oct 2 members to C4 and other 2 members to C3; 10th Oct 2 members to C4 and Giutuachvilli and Mazur to top using oxygen during climb and back to S Col 9:00 pm and slept there. 11th Oct Giutuachvilli to C3 only (very tired started form col down only at 2:00 pm). 2 members on 12th Oct tried to go up from col but very strong wind and went down instead and met Balyberdin in descent. 2 members and Balyberdin stayed in tent from C4 at 7500m waiting for good weather but weather bad and 15th Oct a member to C2 and 16th C3 to clear C3. Their climb now finished.

  May he will come again for 1-day climb said Balyberdin but must have 1 year rest and think about it. Boukreev wants to try in 1 day: BC-summit-BC. "It's possible but good weather and good rest before and every time I have no good rest in this autumn's attempts.

  Greg Davis spent 2 nights in C1 at 6100m then went down and left BC about 4 to 5th Oct. Why Balyberdin cannot say (according to TASS's KTM correspondent 11 Oct, Davis had trouble with altitude above 6000m, was in KTM 9 Oct and left 10 Oct). Mazur agrees Davis had altitude problem.

  Mazur 29 Oct: Balyberdin did not pay Icefall toll demanded by expedition and made own route close to bottom of W Shoulder, from which there was avalanching "constantly." 1 avalanche took out 4 fixed lines at 6:30 one morning in late Sept. Then Balyberdin gave some supplies (oxygen?) to Nepalis and was allowed onto Nepalese Icefall route. There also was avalanching from S Col to C2 bergschrund area. "Russians take great risks." B & B's ascent on 7th was not solely to acclimatize for speed climb: wanted to reach summit.


  Mazur - 29 Oct 1991

  Greg Davis told Mazur at Everest BC he had gone to Gorak Shep and Pumori BC for about 3 days but had not climbed Pumori, as he has been reported he did to Ministry of Tourism. Mazur wonders what he did for 3 days at base camp. Mal Duff, British Pumori expedition leader, says an American from Balyberdin's team did reach summit about 6 Oct.

  [Balyberdin told me 27 Oct Davis did not climb Pumori].


expid: EVER91308
peakid: EVER
year: 1991
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Michael Groom
sponsor: Australian Everest 1991 Expedition (on Spanish permit)
countries: New Zealand
bcdate: 1991-09-07
smtdate: 1991-10-08
termdate: 1991-10-11
termnote: Abandoned at 8200m due to exhaustion
campsites: BC(07/09,5350m),C1(16/09,6100m),C2(18/09,6450m),C3(23/09,7300m),C4(04/10,7900m),xxx(08/10,8200m)
accidents: None
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Squires reached 7700m and then abandoned climb on 2 Oct; found climb too hard. 4th Collins, Lock and Groom reached col on 4th Oct intending to go to top that night. Weather had been stable till winds picked up that afternoon (Russians had gone to top in conditions Groom wouldn't accept). Spaniards stayed at col. On 6th reached 8200m following Spanish climbers, then turned back affected by altitude and buffeted by wind. Groom had been in avalanche and broke/bruised ribs and twisted knee and perhaps rebroke his nose 20th Sept on Lhotse Face at 7600m and fell with it to 6600m. Now realized foolish for him to make another attempt. Lock and Collins down to C2 to rest, tried to go up again but gave up at C3, realizing how tired and unmotivated they were. Left BC 11th Oct.

  Pratt joined Australian group as requirement of a agent who held permit, originally for Spaniards, but he was entirely independent of Groom's foursome on the mountain. Pratt reached S Col 7 or 8th Oct and stayed on hoping for another summit bid.


expid: EVER91303
peakid: EVER
year: 1991
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Juan Carlos Gomez Ramos
sponsor: Spanish Expedition to Everest
ascent1: 127
bcdate: 1991-08-21
smtdate: 1991-10-06
campsites: BC(21/08,5350m),C1(04/09,6000m),C2(09/09,6400m),C3(16/09,7300m),C4(30/09,7900m),Smt(06/10)
accidents: Garces 2 toes frostbitten on summit day
agency: Above the Clouds
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  After C3 established, strong winds prevented more progress till end of Sept. 3 Oct 5 members made summit bid and reached S summit. No route opened beyond there, powdered snow there and hadn't enough oxygen and rope to climb Hillary Step so returned to C4 with Gomez staying at col and others on down. 

  4th Oct 5 more people up to col. 5th wind so wait at col. 6th go for summit: 6 Spanish climbers up from C4, 5 reach nearly top of Hillary Step. Here on descent Vidaurre cannot see (because wind's effect on eyes) and Gomez, helps him descend. Top is big cornice. Gomez did not ask Vidaurre to wait while Gomez went to top; his friend was weeping in distress and begging for help. In summit bid of 6th, Ortas carried oxygen to 8500m and left there 2 bottles: he did not expect to go to top and carried for his teammates, who used these bottles in ascent. On 6th it was not windy till above S Summit. 7th Oct very strong wind and summit impossible then and climb finished and did not try for Lhotse summit. Vidaurre left small cross at summit which Russian summiter found and brought back.


expid: EVER91313
peakid: EVER
year: 1991
route1: N Col (Messner 1980 rte)
nation: Brazil
leaders: Thomaz Brandolin
sponsor: First Brazilian Everest Expedition 1991
bcdate: 1991-10-03
smtdate: 1991-10-30
termdate: 1991-11-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to wind
accidents: 1 Sherpa very badly infected tooth (went only to ABC & then back to Kathmandu)
achievment: 1st South American Expedition on Everest
agency: Sherpa Trekking Service (STS)
campsites:
  BC(03/10,5200m),C1(12/10,5600m),C2(13/10,6000m),C3.ABC(14/10,6500m),C4(28/10,7069m),xxx(30/10,7100m)

routememo:
  BC at Rongbuk
  High BC C3 at East Rongbuk
  C4 at North Col.

  Took 2 weeks to get to N Col fixing ropes in strong winds (if no wind, reach in 4-5 days). Almost everyday and night, clear but windy. C4 established 28th Oct by 2 members, Ang Rita and Ang Nima with other 2 members carrying loads but not staying at col. 29th rested at C4. 30th was windy still but Brandolin and Ang Rita reached only 7100m and back to C4: to go higher "we fly to Kathmandu or we die." 31st wind and cold (-25 degrees) persisted so no attempt to go up; all 4 down to C3. 2 Nov all to BC for 1 week's rest and to buy supplies of food at Sheay. 10th Nov start up to high BC (C3) in 2 days: Bonin, Lima, 3 climbing Sherpas and 1 cook to C3; arrived C3 on only day of snowfall 11th Nov. Now colder and stronger wind. 16th Nov Bonin down to BC. 17th Brandolin tried solo attempt with a member along to film but wind stopped them at 6800m and returned to C3. 18th 2 members and Ang Nima down from C3. 20th 2 other Sherpas down (cook and Phurba) and finally Lima, Brandolin and Ang Rita down when yaks came; after 17th no one attempted to go above C3; many tents destroyed by wind. Left BC 26 Nov and arrived KTM 28 Nov.


expid: EVER91304
peakid: EVER
year: 1991
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Pasang Lhamu Sherpa
sponsor: 1st Nepalese Woman Sagarmatha Expedition to Everest
countries: Belgium, France
bcdate: 1991-08-22
smtdate: 1991-09-30
termdate: 1991-10-10
termnote: Abandoned at 8760m due to winds
campsites: BC(22/08,5350m),C1(03/09,6100m),C2(08/09,6400m),C3(15/09,7300m),C4(28/09,7900m),xxx(30/09,8760m)
accidents: Sonam Tshering slightly frostbitten cheek only
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C4 at South Col
  High point at South Summit.

  French women arrived BC late Aug, 10th Sept and began 15th Sept. At BC Pasang Lhamu's husband said no climbers from any expedition had right to try summit before Pasang Lhamu tried. Europeans had not signed any paper to this effect.

  Pasang made her 1st attempt on 30th Sept. Pasang Lhamu angry that Besson joined her 30th Sept attempt (he had waited 1 day in S Col for her - "she can't stop me; they don't want to carry my oxygen so I carry it myself." Reached S Summit (Asselin reached same route as S summit) then time too late and strong wind and big clouds; so went down and met Pasang 50m below S Summit and she turned back here, 1/2 hr from S Summit and her 5 Sherpas an hour later; all down to C2 and BC. 

  Europeans made their attempt on 3rd Oct. When arrived at col to try for top on 4th, winds very strong and only Mauduit stayed at col while others down (Mauduit stayed because Karl and Apa Sherpa arriving col that day and troubles with Pasang Lhamu). Mauduit ready to go up at midnight but Apa not well and did not want to go up, Karl not willing to go up without him and Mauduit decided not to go above without oxygen; so on 5th all 3 down. Mauduit's and Karl's plan to go to top was in violation of new order from Pasang's husband that foreign member do not go ahead of her.

  3rd summit attempt: Pasang, Besson, Nawang Thile, Babu and Dawa Tashi Sherpa from BC and arrived at col. Got no one up because of wind and 10th noon all down and in descent took down C4. Met Mauduit at C2, not allowed to go to on top to C4 and on 11th dismantled C4 and C2 and climb obviously finished although on 10th 1 Russian Gerglan and 1 member reached summit later that day. At col on 29th Besson had to sleep in Spanish tent because Sherpas said no room for him.

  Pasang very slow especially on descent and not good technically. She was official leader, but leaders were her husband and sirdar; she did not know how to lead.

  6 Oct - Pasang Lhamu: There were 10 Nepali members (8 Sherpas and 2 Gurungs) and 5 Sherpas in Icefall and carrying loads only and 1 Sherpa, Apa, hired by Karl Huyberechts to help him. Of these 10 members, six made summit bids: on 1st bid of 30th Sept, they were Pasang Lhamu, Sonam Tshering, Dawa Tashi, Nawang Thile, Babu Tshering and Iman Gurung; on 2nd bid of 7-8 Oct (not 9-10th Oct) same members except Sonam Tshering. In both bids, oxygen used at and above C4 by Pasang Lhamu, Sonam Tshering, Nawang Thile, Dawa Tashi; Babu and Iman used none at all; other Nepalis, who went to C4 but did not sleep there used none.

  On 30th Sept Besson of this expedition and Asselin of French expedition went ahead while Pasang Lhamu and her 5 Nepalis waited just below S Summit for their report of conditions ahead. Besson and Asselin returned after 1/2 hour and reported not possible to go beyond S Summit because of wind and soft snow; 2 Frenchmen descended, Pasang Lhamu and party went up anyway, reached S Summit and descended part way to small dip before ascent to Hillary Step, then turned back because of wind.

  On 7th Oct Pasang Lhamu and 4 Nepalis arrived at C4 to go to summit next day but wind prevented anyone from going higher. After waiting till 3:00 pm they descended to C2. They had meeting at C2 that evening: Pasang Lhamu and her 4 Nepalis, Sonam Tshering, Besson, Chantal Mauduit, Karl Huyberechts and Apa. Karl wanted to make summit bid soon but he found that his oxygen regulator was not working and he would not try without oxygen; Chantal wanted to try for summit, but not with Karl; Besson not interested in 3rd attempt nor was Pasang, so it was decided climb was finished and C4 would be - and was - brought down next day.

  Ministry of Tourism had asked other Everest expeditions and foreign members of Pasang Lhamu's expedition to give her first chance at summit but nothing was put in writing and she, her husband and her sirdar Sonam Tshering did not tell others they had to wait for her.


  Asselin, etc - 16 Oct 91
  French Everest Expedition

  Nepal-French-Belgian Everest expedition had problems between European and Nepalese members:
  - items of written agreement by which Europeans pledged to give Pasang Lhamu 
    priority on summit bid; Europeans did not realize how this would affect their
    own summit chances.
  - food provided by Nepalese not to Europeans taste.
  - oxygen not supplied by Nepalese.
  Europeans paid Nepalese $5000 each to join expedition.


  Sonam, Thamserku Trekking - 4 Oct 1991

  Pasang Lhamu, Asselin and 5 Sherpas reached 96m below top in 100 mkh wind. She and sirdar at 8400m at midnight. Started from South Col 1:30 am and she back at South Col 10:00 am (her Sherpas earlier). All down to BC, 2nd Oct. 5th or 6th up again. All other teams waited for her to make trail and some were above South Summit yesterday and turned back. Very dangerous cornices above South Summit. 

  Summit bid 15 Sept and C3 reached, then avalanche. Pivot and Groom as well as Pasang Lhamu made this bid.


  To Rising Nepal (Kathmandu), 2 Oct 1991 by Jean Michel Asselin of French team

  The Highest Night

  It was the second night we spent at the South Col at nearly 8000m of altitude. We the members of two expeditions; that of the first Nepalese women to attempt Mount Everest, and the French Expedition called Namaste. In total we were twelve. This second night was again marked by terrifying gusts of winds and I could not believe that at one o'clock in the morning we could leave our tents and go towards the summit of Mt Everest over 900m higher.

  30 Sept: at 01:30 after putting on my crampons, I followed the steps of Sonam Tshering the sirdar of Pasang Lhamu, on to the great snow slopes leading to the southeast Ridge. Often I watched Pasang Lhamu and asked myself where did she find the courage to do what we were doing. It was very cold and the effort was so intense, that no matter who would  haveno hesitation in turning back. 

  Reaching the ridge, we discovered the most beautiful landscape view in the world. The sun helped everyone feel a little better assisted by the attraction of the summit which we felt close.

  I confess I was fascinated by the three Sherpas who were climbing without using bottled oxygen. Unfortunately for me, the snow, which until now was quite hard, became very soft and we sank through up to our waists and sometimes up to our chests. It was then that our progress already difficult became extremely slow. This slope which allows access to the South Summit and which is inclined at 50 degrees took us over two hours of effort. Every 15 metres one or other of us would take lead, knowing very well that here we would require all our force to reach the nearby summit.

  At 3 o'clock in the afternoon after fourteen hours of extreme effort we reached the South Summit of Everest at 8770m. It was already a good victory, but for total success there remained a further 100m. At this moment the wind gushed at over 100 km/hr and I wasn't sure what to do. I therefore asked the closest Sherpa what he thought. Without hesitation he told me "let's go." It appeared inevitable to me to go to the summit in such a wind, but how does one doubt the words of a Sherpa who had already been twice to the summit of the roof of the world.

  So we went, the two of us with a piece of rope in this strange high altitude world beaten by the violent wind. After about 100m, the snow disappeared under the steps of the Sherpa and dropped into the void. A this time we understood that it was futile to continue and we retraced our path to the South Summit. Climbing there I crossed Pasang always confident and told her that we would not reach the summit and that one should go down.

  Thick mist began to form and envelope the mountain hiding the descent. Convinced that I was going to run out of oxygen, I ran down the slopes and exhausted, arrived at C4 (South Col) before night fall. The wind had again raged and I noticed with sadness that it had torn two tents. I threw myself into another where I was taken care of by two friends and immediately exhausted, I got into my sleeping bag, and tried to go to sleep fearing all the time that the tent would take off and fly away.

  At midnight, Nawang Thile, a Sherpa with Pasang's expedition, came to the tent and told me "Big problem, three people are not coming, probably Pasang!" I was very worried because I knew it was impossible for a man or woman to survive at over 8000m without shelter with winds gusting at over 150 km/hr. But what could be done? In the state I was in I couldn't move. I gave Nawang Thile a drink and my headlamps but was sure that he was also powerless to intervene. He managed to climb a few hundred metres higher during the night in which a man and a women (both Sherpas) managed to survive. 

  It was a unprecedented achievement (probably more difficult than climbing Everest) of Pasang Lhamu and Sonam Tshering. During the night hours, struggling "against the cold, they showed that human beings have the strength to combat and beat the most hostile force of nature."

  When at nearly seven o'clock in the morning I saw Pasang arrive at tent like a ghost. I cried with joy. Tired, but alive, she was already thinking of her next attempt on her mountain. Sonam had got frostbite but his courage was intact. And for me as well the decision was made. I would go back towards the summit of Mt Everest with the woman who had lived through the highest bivouac in the world. And Chance would smile on us.


expid: EVER91309
peakid: EVER
year: 1991
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yasuo Iwazoe
sponsor: G-Tohan (Ascent) Club Everest Expedition 1991
bcdate: 1991-09-11
smtdate: 1991-10-05
termdate: 1991-10-12
termnote: Abandoned at 8750m due to oxygen finished and C4 tent broken by wind
campsites: BC(11/09,5350m),C1(14/09,6100m),C2(16/09,6400m),C3(21/09,7300m),C4(30/09,7900m),xxx(05/10,8750m)
accidents: None
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col
  High point at South Summit.

  30th Sept Sherpas pitched C4 but camp not slept in till 1st Oct. Sherpas go very quickly but Japanese members very slow. 

  1st summit attack from col 1/2 Oct and Nakajima reached 8500m, Iwazoe to 8250m and Sherpas Phinzo and Nawang Choklang to 8500m. Iwazoe back because carrying 2 oxygen bottles and they were very heavy; other turned back because snow very soft and deep (at 8500m at 3 am) and sirdar said when sun comes avalanches will start. 

  2nd summit attack from C4 on 5 Oct by Ono and Phinzo: started 6:30 am, reached S Summit 2 pm, then down because oxygen finished. 

  No more attacks; 3rd attack for summit planned but when Sherpas reached C4, they found tent broken by winds.

  All members reached C3. Left BC 12 Oct.


expid: EVER91312
peakid: EVER
year: 1991
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Hans Eitel
sponsor: International Mountain Climbing (IMC) Everest Expedition
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 1991-09-24
smtdate: 1991-10-16
termdate: 1991-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to wind and loss of interest by Dacher
campsites: BC(24/09,5400m),C1(20/09,6100m),C3(04/10,6500m),C3(12/10,7350m),C4(16/10,7900m),xxx(16-17/10,7900m)
accidents: Weber slightly frostbitten fingers
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col but not slept in.

  Pasang Lhamu's husband Sonam asked $3000 per expedition and 4-5 Sherpas were at icefall to stop climbing if not paid and put up notice that icefall route not maintained after 16 Oct; money paid to Sonam. "This situation is no good for climbing." (Eitel paid $1700 and gave 1000m rope). Sherpas put a tent at col and half-day later blown away. Only 2 strong climbers (Dacher and Eitel) and Dacher would not go without O2, Were in C2 hoping wind would permit summit but were one week too late; had however arranged for icefall to be kept open though big changes in it. Other 2 members only to C2 and left early because too much for them. Dacher and Eitel reached C4 on 17th and found tent pitched there previous day had been blown away.


expid: EVER91302
peakid: EVER
year: 1991
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Peter Austen
sponsor: Everest Canada 91 - 'Climb for Hope Expedition'
countries: Finland, USA
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 1991-08-14
smtdate: 1991-10-01
termdate: 1991-10-02
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to wind and team attrition
accidents: Rippel tore ligaments; several support climbers with altitude problems
agency: Mountain Travel
campsites:
  BC(14/08,5180m),C1(25/08,5600m),C2(26/08,6100m),ABC(21/08,6500m),C4(07/09,7000m),C5(17/09,7800m),xxx(01/10,8000m)

routememo:
  BC at end of road
  C2 at Changtse ABC
  C4 at North Col
  C5 at North Ridge
  High point at North Ridge.

  "Got tons of snow" in early days. Then in last half of Sept & on 1 Oct winds were the problem. On 1st Oct were trying to establish C5 for summit bid later. Really only 9 high climbers on team.


expid: EVER91310
peakid: EVER
year: 1991
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Jonathan Pratt
sponsor: (on Spanish permit)
bcdate: 1991-09-15
smtdate: 1991-10-09
termdate: 1991-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7950m due to wind, destruction of tent at Col
campsites: BC(15/09,5350m),C1(18/09,6100m),C2(20/09,6450m),C3(22/09,7300m),C4(08/10,7900m),xxx(09/10,7950m)
routememo:
  C2 in Western Cwm (took C1 tent here, no C1 now left)
  C3 on Lhotse Face (no tent here, bivy sack sleeping bag used).

  23rd Oct down to BC; up again 3 Oct to C2, C3 on 4th where stayed in empty Australian tent, 5th to C4 and down to C2 same day because of winds. Stayed at C2 till 8th when up to C3 with Lock who then turned back, while Pratt went on to C4 same day, where he slept with French expedition's British member Jennings. 9th Pratt and Jennings up only 50m and gave up because of winds and Pratt to C2 and 10th to BC. Up to C2 12th or 13th Oct and 14th Dacher and Pratt scarcely up from C2 because Sherpas had pitched tent at col, but it was destroyed, so no tents at col and now Sherpas reported this. They abandoned climb on 14th and down together.

  Pratt left BC 15 Oct after lunch and arrived KTM 23 Oct.


expid: EVER91305
peakid: EVER
year: 1991
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Josu Bereziartua
sponsor: Azpeitia Everest 1991
bcdate: 1991-08-24
smtdate: 1991-10-03
termdate: 1991-10-14
termnote: Abandoned at 8750m due to oxygen regulator failure and route difficulty
campsites: BC(24/08,5350m),C1(03/09,6100m),C2(08/09,6600m),C3(15/09,7300m),C4(29/09,7900m),xxx(03/10,8750m)
accidents: None
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col (occupied 2nd Oct)
  High point at South Summit.

  Pitched C4 29 Sept and down same day to C2 for 2-3 days rest. Up to C4 on 2 Oct. 3rd Oct C4 to South Summit, where Irureta's oxygen finished. Left C4 2 am, arrived S Summit 11:30 am, now problem with Irureta's O2 regulator and Valencia summit party decided to turn back here (had left C4 earlier than Basques) so both Basques also turned back: Bereziartua could not go on up the Hillary Step alone in snow on route and techinical difficulty. Back to C4 and down to BC where all members and Sherpas are now on 4th Oct. 

  7 Oct 5 members and 4 Sherpas up to C2; 8th too much wind. Oct 9th to C3, wind and again to C2 (wind blowing snow). 13th Oct finally all down from C2 to BC and climb finished. Left BC 14th Oct.


expid: EVER91201
peakid: EVER
year: 1991
route1: N Face (Hornbein Couloir)
nation: Belgium
leaders: Alain Hubert
sponsor: Mt. Everest 1991
countries: France, Luxembourg
bcdate: 1991-07-30
smtdate: 1991-09-07
termdate: 1991-09-08
termnote: Abandoned at 7250m due to snowfall and expiration of permit on Sep 15
campsites: ChineseBC(30/07,5200m),ABC(01/08,5950m),C1(10/08,5950m),C2(07/09,7250m),xxx(07/09,7250m)
accidents: Borrey had a serious internal problem (stomach ulcer) and doctor sent him home
routememo:
  1st C1 at 5800m destroyed by avalanche from Changtse so put new C1 little higher. C2 a problem: quality of snow, frequent snowfalls, almost everyday. Team was at or above BC. Fixed rope on bottom of face to C2 but 3 times ropes & deposit of gear taken away by avalanching. Possible for 1 or 2 climbers to go quickly up face but not for bigger group making fixed camps and intending to use oxygen. Avalanching came everyday and all across face including down.

  Hornbein permit was valid till 15 Sept. On 8th decided to stop climb: would have needed 2 weeks more. Weather was warm, which means avalanche danger - some climbers pushed by avalanches but not hurt.

  C2 site had been reached 3 times before slept in on 7 Sept - 1st time on 15 or 17 Aug - always by same 3 members.


expid: EVER91301
peakid: EVER
year: 1991
route1: N Face
nation: India
leaders: Pranesh Chakraborty
sponsor: Indian Everest Expedition (China) 1991
bcdate: 1991-08-06
smtdate: 1991-09-22
termdate: 1991-09-23
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to snow conditions
campsites: BC(06/08,5100m),ABC(15/08,5600m),C1(26/08,6000m),C2(20/09,7200m),xxx(22/09,7500m)
accidents: 1 case pulmonary edema (Das sent to Calcutta, left BC Aug 7 and never climbed)
agency: Unknown
routememo:
  BC at Chinese BC
  C1 at NNW of Hornbein on icefield 
  C2 at snow cave just below "White Limbo".

  Did some training climbing before ABC established. Split team into 3 groups and 1st tried to open route slightly E of Australian route towards couloir: many avalanches coming down Australian's White Limbo as snow fell every night and avalanched every day as sun warmed it. Then 3 days snowfall buried ropes fixed at bottom of face and 28th Aug called all back to ABC as entire face was avalanching. Regrouped team as half of 2 months time gone. Fresh group of 6 and climbing leader up to C1 on 1 Sept and tried to retrace way to bottom of face and ropes but could retrive little. 3 or 4 Sept started on route to make to C2 and on 1st day fixed from 6400m to 6550m to just below rock buttress. Meanwhile dumped loads at base of Changtse including most of technical gear. Then continuous snowfall 3-4 days and Hornbein and W Ridge avalanching badly with huge ice shelf collapsing 8 Sept from below couloir and snow covered entire face (Indians were at C1 and not hit). 11th Sept back to ABC, 14th Sept back to C1, moved cache gear down a bit and opened route up face to 7200m and made snow cave for rations, oxygen, tents etc. - these for summit attack. Took 13 hrs to carry from C1 and no place to rest seated. Finally Sept 4 members move into cave and established C2. 21st support group moved more supplies up to C2 while 4 started on route above C2 and fixed ropes 150-200m vertical; this area a mix of ice and snow. Had planned 5 camps but now running time decided only 4 total. 22nd Sept fixed 75m rope but now steeper and snow powdery and extremely slippery and impossible to fix anchors and face to west of them avalanched, so back to snow cave. Strong wind had started 21st night and on 23rd impossible to leave cave because of its strength; up to see snow conditions but at least 100 km/hr wind made progress difficult and slow; went to high point reached on 22nd, retrieved tent and now retreat began: progress so slow impossible to succeed in time allotted.

  Used 3 Tibetans to C2.


expid: EVER91306
peakid: EVER
year: 1991
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Denis Pivot
sponsor: Namaste 1991 to Everest
countries: Brazil, UK
bcdate: 1991-08-25
smtdate: 1991-09-30
termnote: Abandoned at 8760m due to winds
campsites: BC(25/08,5350m),C1(27/08,6100m),C2(30/08,6400m),C3(04/09,7300m),C4(20/09,7900m),xxx(30/09,8760m)
accidents: Pivot shoulder broken in avalanche; 1 Sherpa frostnip cheek; Tardivel frostbitten
agency: Sherpa Society
routememo:
  Lot of snow after early Sept. Then in an attempt to established C4 Pivot was caught in avalanche on Lhotse Face (which also hit Michael Groom) and crampon of Nepal expedition Sherpa broke his left shoulder and rendered him unconscious (stayed at BC for rest of time). 

  1st summit bid 30th Sept: Asselin, Besson, Desez, Martin & Phurba, together with Pasang Lhamu, Dawa Tashi, Babu Tshering, Iman Gurung and Nawang Thile (Everest 1990 top) and Sonam Tshering & Besson, all from Nepal-France-Belgium team all from S Col; of these 12 only Pasang Lhamu, Dawa Tshering, Babu Tshering, Iman Guring, Nawang Thile and Sonam Tshering, Besson and Asselin reached S Summit at 3:00 pm in very deep snow, very difficult. After having started at 1:30 am (3 Nepalese no oxygen at all, others using it but on very low flow) 2 French arrived at S Summit first and waited for others to continue. Babu Tshering at cornice before Hillary Step put one leg through it and decided to go back; was about 3:30-4:00 pm when abandoned this attempt by Asselin and Babu Tshering only; other 4 behind them (Asselin meet Pasang Lhamu at S Summit as he returned from cornice and she arriving at S Summit in ascent) and all 6 returned to S Col. Asselin arived col 5:30 pm (on full oxygen flow), Besson and Phurba 6:30 pm; at midnight Nawang Thile arrived at Col while Pasang Lhamu only at 7:00 am. Of this entire group of 12, only Iman Gurung, Babu Tshering and another Sherpa of Nepali team did not use oxygen in ascent. Asselin and Besson used oxygen sleeping during 4 nights at col for this attack, but used only briefly and intermittently. All down to BC on 1 Oct. 

  2nd summit bid by Niclevicz on 2 Oct with Spanish? up from Col to 8500m; had oxygen regulator problem, had used oxygen at col also.

  3rd summit bid: 5th Oct from BC to C2; 6th top C3 from C3 down C2, learned Spanish on top on 6th; 7th Besson, Desez, Asselin and Jennings to C4 where are Pasang Lhamu and her high team of 1st attack except Sonam Tshering. Hoped to go up at night but too much wind and at noon 8th decided winds too strong and all down to BC (except Jennings, alone at S Col till 9th morning when one tent explored and he too down). At col again French team never used oxygen.

  Massive collapse of Icefall 10th Sept at 11:00 am but no one there.

  Pasang Lhamu very courageous but technically not adept, but very courteous, and was above the problem of relations with Europeans, which Sonam, her husband, had caused.


  To Rising Nepal (Kathmandu) - 2 Oct 1991 by Jean Michel Asselin, leader

  The Highest Night

  It was the second night we spent at the South Col at nearly 8000m of altitude. We the members of two expeditions: that is the first Nepalese woman to attempt Mt Everest and the French Expedition called Namaste. In total we were twelve. This second night was again marked by terrifying gusts of winds and I could not believe that at one o'clock in the morning we could leave our tents and go towards the summit of Mt Everest over 900m higher.

  30 Sept: At 01:30 after putting on my crampons, I followed the steps of Sonam Tshering the sirdar of Pasang Lhamu, on to the great snow slopes leading to the southeast ridge. Often I watched Pasang Lhamu and asked myself where did she find the courage to do what we were doing. It was very cold and the effort was so intense, that no matter who would have no hesitation in turning back.

  Reaching the ridge, we discovered the most beautiful landscape view in the world. The sun helped everyone feel a little better assisted by the attraction of the summit which we felt close.

  I confess I was fascinated by the three Sherpas who were climbing without using bottled oxygen. Unfortunately for me, the snow, which until now was quite hard, became very soft and we sank through up to our waists and sometimes up to our chests. It was then that our progress already difficult became extremely slow. This slope which allows access to the South Summit and which is inclined at 50 degrees took us over two hours of effort. Every 15 metres one or other of us would take lead, knowing very well that here we would require all our force to reach the nearby summit.

  At 3 o'clock in the afternoon after fourteen hours of extreme effort we reached the South Summit of Everest at 8770m. It was already a good victory, but for total success there remained a further 100m. At this moment the wind gusted at over 100 km/hr and I wasn't sure what to do. I therefore asked the closest Sherpa what he thought. Without hesitation he told me "let's go." It appeared inevitable to me to go to the summit in such a wind, but how does one doubt the words of a Sherpa who had already been twice to the summit of the roof of the world.

  So we went, the two of us with a piece of rope in this strange high altitude world beaten by the violent wind. After about 100m, the snow disappeared under the steps of the Sherpa and dropped in the void. At this time we understood that it was futile to continue and we retraced our path to the South Summit. Climbing there I crossed Pasang always confident and told her that we would not reach the summit and that one should go down.

  Thick mist began to form and envelope the mountain hiding the descent. Convinced that I was going to run out of oxygen, I ran down the slopes and exhausted, arrived at C4 (South Col) before night fall. The wind had again raged and I noticed with sadness that it had torn two tents. I threw myself into another where I was taken care of by two friends and immediately exhausted, I got into my sleeping bag, and tried to go to sleep fearing all the time that the tent would take off and fly away.

  At midnight, Nawang Thile, a Sherpa with Pasang's expedition, came to the tent and told me "Big problem, three people are not coming, probably Pasang." I was very worried because I knew it was impossible for a man or woman to survive at over 8000m without shelter with winds gusting at over 150 km/hr. But what could be done? In the state I was in I couldn't move. I gave Nawang Thile a drink and my headlamps but was sure that he was also powerless to intervene. He managed to climb a few hundred metres higher during the night in which a man and a women (both Sherpas) managed to survive.

  It was a unprecedented achievement - probably mere difficult open climbing Everest of Pasang Lamu and Sonam Tshering. During the night hours, struggling "against the cold, they showed that human beings have the strength to combat and beat the most hostile force of nature."

  When at nearly seven o'clock in the morning I saw Pasang arrive at tent like a ghost. I cried with joy. Tired, but alive, she was already thinking of her next attempt on her mountain. Sonam had got frostbite but his courage was intact. And for me as well the decision was made. I would go back towards the summit of Mt Everest with the woman who had lived through the highest bivouac in the world. And Chance would smile on us.


expid: MAKA91305
peakid: MAKA
year: 1991
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hirotaka Imamura
sponsor: Bernina Alpine Club Makalu I Expedition 1991
ascent1: 38th,39th
bcdate: 1991-09-10
smtdate: 1991-10-05
smttime: 1055
termdate: 1991-10-15
campsites: BC(10/09,5300m),C1(17/09,6000m),C2(23/09,6700m),C3(26/09,7400m),C4(04/10,7800m),Smt(05,07/10)
accidents: Death of Ishizaka; 2 serious frostbite
achievment: 2nd woman on top
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at high BC (same as Swiss and Spaniards (Valles))
  C3 at Makalu La.

  1st summit attack 5th Oct by members and sirdar from C4 and reached top. Left C4 4:00 am and on summit 10:55 to 12:08. All down to C4 and 6th Oct. All 4 to BC. 2nd summit attack by other 3 Japanese and 1 Sherpa, Furu Gyalgen; Nozawai turned back at 8100m (tired) and Furu Gyalgen with him to help him down and reached C4 while Nagao and Ishizaka continued to top. Had left C4 3:30 am and on top over 12 hrs later because Nagao's crampon broken and waited for Nozawari to reach then at 8100m (which he did 11:00 am) and strong cold wind. In descent Nozawari and Ishizaka biv at 8200m after dark (6:30 to 7:00 pm perhaps): no biv gear with them but they dug snow cave. Next day they got to 8000m and here also biv because Ishizaka "very tired and not walking" (i.e., on easy route was slipping and sliding). 8th evening tried to get to C4 and Ishizaka in dark and now headlamps lost or dead batteries. Miss Nagao made cave here and called to Ishizaka to return to 8000m, he said OK but did not came up to her and at midnight when she called no one there. 9th 9:00 am she went down fixed rope and at 7900m found Ishizaka attached to rope dead. She reached C4 on 9th where there was no one. Imamura and Futamata reached C4 that afternoon from C1, contact on radio and meet at 7600m at 5:00 pm and all 3 down to C3 at 7:00 pm in dark. 10th Oct down to BC. Ishizaka body left stuck at 7900m.

  Miss Nagao very bad frostbitten fingers on both hands and toes on both feet; all fingers will have to be amputated at least at first joint and perhaps toes also; nose also frostbitten but will heal. Ang Dorje frostbitten at 1st biv; frostbite on 3 toes of right foot; frozen on attack day; did not use overboats: was given money to buy equipment and at C1 found his boots and overboots did not fit.

  14th Oct helicopter brought Imanura, Nagao and Ang Dorje to KTM; 19th Oct other members will arrive Tumlingtar.


expid: MAKA91302
peakid: MAKA
year: 1991
route1: Makalu La-Kukuzcka Rib
nation: Spain
leaders: Alberto Inurrategi
sponsor: Makalu Expedition 1991
ascent1: 35th
bcdate: 1991-08-25
smtdate: 1991-09-30
smttime: 0830
campsites: BC(25/08,5600m),C1(30/08,6100m),C2(13/09,7100m),C3(20/09,7500m),Biv(29/09,8100m),Smt(30/09)
accidents: Both Innurrategis have frostbitten fingers and toes (will heal)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at same Catalans.

  Summit bid by Arregi who put tent at 7900m at 23 Sept with one Catalan expedition member and 24th reached 8000m with Catalanian (who went to summit) and turned back because still long way to top, too far safety. 

  29th both Innurategis and Uriarte left C3 and put their tent at 8100m. 30th trio left biv at 3:00 am and on top 8:30 am with wind only at summit and returned to C3 same day.


expid: MAKA91303
peakid: MAKA
year: 1991
route1: Makalu La-Kukuczka Rib
nation: Spain
leaders: Jordi Bosch
sponsor: Girona Makalu Expedition 1991
ascent1: 34th,36th
bcdate: 1991-08-26
smtdate: 1991-09-24
smttime: 1200
termdate: 1991-10-02
othersmts: Climbed Kangchungste (Makalu II) (MAK2-913-01)
accidents: None
agency: Kunga
campsites:
  BC(26/08,5600m),C1(01/09,6000m),C2(16/09,7200m),C3(21/09,7600m),C4A(23/09,7900m),C4B(29/09,8100m),Smt(24,30/09)

routememo:
  BC at normal BC site
  C1 at start of Kukuczka ridge/route
  C2 near normal and Kukuczka route sites
  C3 above Makalu La on normal route.

  C2 made after 15 days because difficult route via Kukuczka's ridge. 23rd Sept Permanye only member to make C4, which he did with one member from Basque team. 24th Basques down to BC while Permanye went to summit from C4 in 12 hrs (from midnight to noon) in clear weather but strong wind and difficult. 

  29th Sept 2nd summit team moved C4 tent to 8100m and 30th took 6 hrs to reach top (3 to 9 am).

  Left BC 2 Oct.

  30th Sept Cardona from C4 did not go up but down to Makalu La and up ridge to summit of Kangchungtse alone; down to BC same day. 

  15th Sept Estiu from Makalu C2 to Kangchungtse summit via Makalu La to top and BC.


expid: MAKA91301
peakid: MAKA
year: 1991
route1: W Pillar
nation: Spain
leaders: Carles Valles
sponsor: Climax Expedition to W Pillar Makalu
ascent1: 37th w/Swz
bcdate: 1991-08-17
smtdate: 1991-10-02
smttime: 1130
accidents: Blazquez tooth infection; Bodiola fatal fall
agency: Kunga
campsites:
  BC(17/08,5400m),C1(01/09,6000m),C2(04/09,6500m),C3(18/09,7300m),Biv1(30/09,7800m),Biv2(01/10,7900m),Smt(02/10)

routememo:
  BC   on ridge just above glacier's junction
  C1   at beginning of snow
  C2   at West Pillar
  C3   at West Pillar
  Biv1 at West Pillar's top nearly
  Biv2 at West Pillar's top nearly.

  After C3 establish all 3-4 days in BC. On 28 Sept 3 members started up and slept in C2. 29 Sept to C3. 3 members to 1st biv on 30th Sept made in night. 2nd biv only Badiola and Valles who picked better site for biv in daylight while Jover down to BC very tired. 2 Oct 2 members to summit leaving 2nd biv at midnight and on top at 11:30 am (Badiola) and 12 noon (Valles). In descent at 8300m at 12:30 pm stones falling. Bodiola fell down East Face. Valles reached Badiola and found him dead, thus climb finished. 

  Martinez in BC after difficulty of climb, Jover tired and Blazquez has tooth infection.


  Report from Carles Valles to Tourism Ministry dated BC - 4 Oct 91:

  The day 2 of October we climb the summit of Makalu from West Pillar. We left last camp at 8000m 1:00 am 2 Oct. We climb the summit of Makalu from West Pillar in 10 hours. We stay in summit 30 minutes and after go down. The accident people is Manu Badiola. In 8300m in West Ridge he is go [fell] down the NE-East Face 800m down. I go to rescue and he is dead.


expid: MAKA91304
peakid: MAKA
year: 1991
route1: W Face (to 7800m)
route2: W Pillar
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Erhard Loretan
sponsor: Swiss Makalu Expedition
ascent2: 37th w/Spa
bcdate: 1991-08-28
smtdate: 1991-10-02
smttime: 1000
campsites: BC(28/08,5300m),Smt(02/10)
accidents: Troillet slightly frostbitten 2 toes; nothing else
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at high BC.

  No fixed camps but made depot on 3rd Sept at 6300m and avalanching took it all away. Borrowed gear from from Spaniards after found gear gone. On 25th left BC at 1 am and up to 6600m spent afternoon there; 6 pm up on to 7800m just below rock wall where reached 3 am 26 Sept. Troillet discovered this biv tent broken in 2 pieces so abandoned wall and down to BC same day without great difficulty. Snow face is 50 degrees but wall above 7800m fine rock mixed with ice at 90 degrees. Changed route and reached W Pillar at 6500m; started up 1 Oct at 1 am from BC and joining 2 Spaniards at 7900m at 9 pm at small biv. 2 Swiss and 4 Spaniards left together at 11 pm 1 Oct and on top: Loretan at 10 am, Troillet 10:30 am.

  Loretan and Troillet left top 11:00 or 11:30 am and reached BC: Loretan 7:00 pm and Troillet 8:00 pm. 2 Spaniards left later and arrived for biv only.


expid: KANG91301
peakid: KANG
year: 1991
route1: SW Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Sergio Martini
sponsor: Italian Kangchenjunga Expedition
bcdate: 1991-09-01
smtdate: 1991-10-11
termdate: 1991-10-12
termnote: Abandoned at 8200m due to exhaustion
campsites: BC(01/09,5400m),C1(13/09,6100m),C2(21/09,6800m),C3(29/09,7400m),C4(01/10,7800m),xxx(11/10,8200m)
accidents: Kami Sherpa sick (throat); Martini infected fingers
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C3 at beginning of steep section just above Shelf
  High point slightly above col between Yalung and Main peak.

  Very good weather, but 1st 15 days of Sept much snowfall & we put many fixed ropes: from BC to C1 is very steep & we must put many fixed ropes. When we reached C3, rested alone because Sherpas in good condition & they went down. These days no wind & very clear but in afternoon very cold. 1 Oct Martini made C4 alone; 3-4 hrs to make platform in snow for his tent. 2 Oct climbed 100m above C4: steep & knee-deep snow & down to C2 that same day, very tired. 3 Oct in BC. Started up again 8 Oct with 1 Sherpa & reached C2. 9 Oct to C3, 10 Oct to C4. 11th am took 2 hrs before could make hot drink, sirdar went ahead of Martini & went up wrong couloir; thus must go back to C4 & climb finished. Martini found on 12th he too tired to go up alone.


expid: KANG91302
peakid: KANG
year: 1991
route1: N Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Mari Abrego Santesteban
sponsor: Iruna-Gasteiz Expedition Kangchenjunga
bcdate: 1991-09-03
smtdate: 1991-09-23
termdate: 1991-09-24
termnote: Abandoned at 8400m due to loss of tents and equipment to winds
accidents: 1 Sherpa slightly injured in C2 avalanche; 3 members slight frostbite in toes and fingers
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(03/09,5140m),C1A(07/09,5850m),C1B(16/09,5900m),C2(18/09,6600m),C3(21/09,7300m),C4(22/09,7800m),xxx(23/09,8400m)

routememo:
  BC at Pangpema
  C2 as 3 tents in crevasse protected from avalanche
  C3 at ridge.

  C1 at 5850m destroyed by avalanche after member and Sherpa descended on 8th in bad weather. 11 Sept Sherpas returned to C1 site, all disappeared at C1, which had all expedition equipment, but dug out on 13th and tents destroyed but much could be retrieved. Many avalanches down the face. 23rd Sherpas went to C4 with members and then down. 23rd 3 members went for summit: Casimiro turned back at 8200m feeling very cold; other 2 on up to 8400m when wind came from all directions and already climbing 12 hours and small slab avalanches falling so down. Hoped for another summit bid but still very cold and strong winds and avalanches night of 23 Sept that broke tents at C2 and took away equipment occupied by Sherpas and Casimiro while at C4 snow broke tent. Now felt mountain wanted climbers to leave. Fixed total 1300m placed between C1 and halfway to C4.


expid: YALU91301
peakid: YALU
year: 1991
route1: SE Face
nation: Czechoslovakia
leaders: Jiri Novak
sponsor: Yalungkang International Expedition
countries: Italy
bcdate: 1991-09-16
smtdate: 1991-10-10
termdate: 1991-10-12
termnote: Abandoned at 8200m due to lack of time
campsites: BC(16/09,5300m),C1(23/09,6100m),C2(27/09,6700m),C3(29/09,7400m),C4(09/10,7950m),xxx(10/10,8200m)
accidents: Cook nearly died of pulmonary edema on approach march near BC; falling stones, but no injuries
agency: Everest Adventure
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 same as Italian Kangchenjunga this autumn
  C2 same as Italian Kangchenjunga  
  C3 same as Italian Kangchenjunga Great Shelf
  C4 in couloir of SE Face of Yalung.

  Same route as 1975 Spring Austro-German Expedition. 9 Oct C4 tent broken by wind but on 10th Oct Sulovsky alone from C4 to 8200m up steep couloir and hard climbing. At 11 am he decided not possible to make summit and returned to C3. He had gone to C4 alone from C3, where Visentin had stopped because tired. 

  Now too late to mount 2nd attempt: 4 days later porters coming and flight from Nepal on fixed date.


expid: CHAM91301
peakid: CHAM
year: 1991
route1: S Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Andrew Pollard
sponsor: British Chamlang Expedition
ascent1: 5th
countries: Australia, Nepal
approach: Mera La->Honku Valley
bcdate: 1991-10-02
smtdate: 1991-10-20
othersmts: Mera Peak
campsites: BC(02/10,4700m),ABC(08/10,5170m),C1(09/10,5740m),C2(15/10,6280m),Biv(19/10,6840m),Smt(20/10)
accidents: Howells' mildly frostbitten fingers
agency: Amtrek
routememo:
  BC at 100m above Hongu River, east of Kangone Dingma 
  ABC on moraine
  Biv in crevasse.

  After BC esablished, looked for route to ridge because no obvious approach to it. Nga Temba brought his own gear and was not paid wages; ate Brits food but did not carry loads for them. Above C1 250m steep (80 degrees at top) snow slope and fixed rope here - 2 rock towers on ridge; 1st fixed ropes on eastern side and traversed around it (300m traverse), dropped down to snow below it and crossed 2 difficult rock steps (fixed 400m rope have around onto ridge). Main section of ridge was relatively easy snow but very complicated system of knife ridges. C2 on crest of ridge; above C2 had to go onto W Face of ridge because poor snow on crest of ridge and narrow ridge. 3-4 hours along ridge was rock step but did not fix it or any other section above C2. Rock band very technical climbing up 50 vertical meters (was 200m below biv at 6840m so was at about 6600m at its bottom). Above band 70 degrees ice and then steep snow. Summiters down to C2 on 20th, which date other members went to summit of Mera Peak (and returned to Chamlang BC same day). Summiters to BC 22 Oct.


expid: BARU91301
peakid: BARU
year: 1991
route1: SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Rene Minelli
sponsor: French Baruntse Expedition
countries: Belgium
approach: Honku Glacier
bcdate: 1991-11-02
smtdate: 1991-11-04
termdate: 1991-11-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6135m due to snowfall
campsites: BC(02/11,5400m),C1(04/11,6135m),xxx(14/11,6135m)
accidents: Only leader's altitude sickness
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC west of lake south of K of Hunku Glacier on Schneider map.

  No C2. Minelli then after 4th Nov got serious altitude sickness and was evacuated by helicopter on 8th Nov from BC. 10 Nov all remaining team returned to West Col camp but that night snowfall of 15 cm so next day back to BC. 13 Nov Boyer had to leave because fo business and Mrs. Minelli left with him. 14 Nov remaining members, the 2 Belgians, back to C1 with Sherpas, but too much snow and sirdar concerned that continuing snowfall would close passes & returned to BC 15 Nov. Left BC 15 Nov to cross Amphu Laptsa and return to Kathmandu.


expid: BARU91302
peakid: BARU
year: 1991
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Fridolin Hauser
sponsor: Alpinschule Toedi Baruntse Expedition
countries: Germany
bcdate: 1991-11-06
smtdate: 1991-11-13
termdate: 1991-11-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6740m due to winds, exhaustion, lack of time
campsites: BC(06/11,5200m),C1(10/11,5700m),C2(12/11,6140m),xxx(13/11,6740m)
accidents: None
agency: Timal Adventure
routememo:
  BC 3 hours beyond lower Makalu BC, SSE of point 5235m
  C1 on glacier below point 6125m on National Geographic map
  C2 at West Col
  High point at SE Ridge.

  1st summit bid from C2 on 13 Nov in good weather at 6:30 am by Cavigilli, stopped because had not had sufficient rest and was coughingly badly so returned to C2. On 13 Nov other 2 members arrived C2. 14 Nov Cavigilli and Janik to C1 while others rested at C2; it was too windy to try for top. 15 Nov too stormy with high winds so instead retreated to BC, clearing C2 and C1. 16 Nov left BC and went to lower Makalu BC (Hillary camp). 

  Real cause of failure was lack of time: had trekking agency with no expedition experience, lost a lot of time with problems with customs, and porters stopped at wrong BC area, which meant members had to ferry loads to ABC->C1.

  French Baruntse expedition's leader said 24 Nov his group never saw this team in the mountains.


expid: EVER90102
peakid: EVER
year: 1990
route1: W Ridge from N
nation: USA
leaders: Todd Burleson
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Super Couloir to Everest 1990
countries: Austria, Canada, Spain
bcdate: 1990-03-08
smtdate: 1990-05-12
termdate: 1990-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to illness and tired of mountain
accidents: Gordon and Habeler pneumonia and other illness
agency: Arniko Travel
campsites:
  ChineseBC(08/03,5100m),ABC(15/03,5300m),C1(31/03,5800m),C2(07/04,6550m),C3(16/04,7100m),C4(10/05,7500m),xxx(12/05,7800m)

routememo:
  Chinese BC on road
  C1 at Changtse corner
  C2 at French ridge 1st ridge to left of Lho La
  C3 at 700 ft below West Shoulder
  C4 on West Ridge at bottom of steep rock band
  High point at snowfield below and to right of Hornbein.

  Decided immediately that North Face route was too dangerous from rock fall so went to W Ridge. Mischa Saleki had permit for ridge but his Sherpas had left and was agreed they would cooperate with Saleki using American's ropes and Sherpas but serious problems with him arose til he left 10th May. 

  1st summit attempt 21 April from C1, got to C3 same day, 22nd tried to go to C4 by Burleson, Habeler, Zabelata, Childin Sherpa, Tshering Sherpa and Gopal Tamang; stopped at 7300m+ because 2 Sherpas and Habeler [and Burleson] ill and attempt finished. All to BC; trekking group arrived, spent one week with group (and Habeler left with group 1 May). 

  Expedition objective had been to get as many people as high as possible. When found no one going above shoulder, switched over to alpine-style by experienced members. So Zabaleta and Burleson to try for summit in best possible weather so waited in ABC till 6th where moved up to C1. 9th to C3 in evening was Zabeleta, Gopal, Lhakpa Rita and Lhakpa Dorje (Burleson turned back because stomach problems). 10th Ang Tshering also to C3; night of 10th all five men to C4 and spent day of 11th there. They left C4 at 00:30 on 12th, Zabelata got sick at C4 but they pressed on anyway but had to turn back because continuing vomiting (had eaten rotten pistachio nuts at C4). Climb finished: illness and people wanted to go home after 2 months and on mountain.


expid: EVER90110
peakid: EVER
year: 1990
route1: N Face (direct)
route2: N Face-N Col-N Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Mike Perry
sponsor: New Zealand Expedition to Mt. Qomolungma
countries: Australia, UK
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk
bcdate: 1990-04-15
smtdate: 1990-06-04
termdate: 1990-06-11
termnote: Abandoned at 8700m because no member ready to try for top
accidents: Bruce retinal hemorrhage; Curry fell into crevasse and damaged nerve in arm
agency: Arniko Travel
campsites:
  BC(15/04,5150m),ABC(23/04,5500m),C1(28/04,5850m),C2(03/05,6700m),NCol(7000m),C5(22/05,7800m),C6(05/06,8200m),xxx(04/06,8700m)

routememo:
  BC  at road
  ABC on moraine
  C1  on moraine
  C2  at bergschrund at bottom of North Face and of west side of Col
  Col camp at N Col
  C5  on ridges leading NE Ridge
  C6  on North Face below NE Ridge
  High point at 3rd Step.

  Had lot of snow and zero visibility during 7-11 May when climbers high on mountain were succeeding in large members. Began climb by carrying gear to bottom of N Face. Had planned to have 3 load-carrying Sherpas but Chinese suddenly slapped big bill for Sherpas. Another problem was bad crevassing to face. Decided face climb would have consumed too much strength leaving only 2 strong enough for summit bid. 

  Soon as others on normal route Bruce up from C6; decided not to take a rope in interest if speed, but by time reached 8600m (below 2nd Step) had been on tricky rock terrain and Bruce now concerned that would be difficult to descend without rope here and turned back. Van Noorden went on and reached 3rd Step at 8700m. Now on final snow slope, decided Bruce correct and he also turned back in perfect weather. 

  2nd attempt by Curry, Perry, Rheinberger and Whetu: arrived C6 10th June. Left at 4:00 am on 11th June, in light breeze and clear sky. By time 150m fixed rope to which took time and got cold. On above on easier ground but in increasingly stronger wind at 1st step (Curry only one on oxygen). 3 were suffering and extreme loss of body heat and Whetu and Perry's feet freezing. Wind was incredibly strong in afternoon, they could not see. Reached 8500m at 9:30 am and then turned back because there were freezing and Curry not masochist. This was last attempt: of others left on mountain, one not feeling "with it" physically and Price had retinal hemmorhage 8th June at C5.


expid: EVER90101
peakid: EVER
year: 1990
route1: W Ridge from N
nation: W Germany/Iran
leaders: Mischa Saleki
sponsor: Saleki to Everest
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 1990-02-28
smtdate: 1990-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to psychological exhaustion
campsites: BC(28/02,5200m),ABC(08/03,5550m),Biv(26/05,7800m),xxx(26/05,7800m)
accidents: None (Saleki's feet fell into crevasse)
agency: Arniko Travel
routememo:
  BC  at normal site near road
  ABC at Main Rongbuk site
  C2  used US camps (Todd Burleson's expedition)
  Biv at West Ridge
  High point at West Ridge.

  Saleki's ABC between Burleson's ABC and C1; gave "too much love" and hospitality to Habeler, Zabeleta and Burleson. Finally allowed them permission to climb W Ridge, let them use Saleki's ropes and still big problems with them (especially the ethics of commercial expedition, on which leader had to teach members ice climbing at BC and members were guided on every step). They threatened to write against Saleki and "finish him" if he didn't let them to take over his route and thus ruining his plan & devout wish to be alone in his route; promised him $1000 for his lost equipment but didn't pay. They didn't expect their members to get above Saleki's C1. Habeler & Zabeleta were paid $15,000 each to guide clients. 

  Saleki's Sherpas left expedition before C1 established. About 10th March they left after one carry above ABC. Saleki then overwhelmed by American team, who scrapped his plans for camp locations. He then slept in US C1 when they were not there and went to top of spur to W Shoulder but down because impossible to stay there while Americans on route. Down to BC and on to Shigatse where got 20 days extension and returned to BC after Americans had left, arrived BC 20-22 May. Now Saleki up to US C2 where used broken US tent, on up W Ridge and biv at 7800m; ABC 24th May; 25th May to US C2; 26th May biv on W Ridge. Now emotionally exhausted; no further motivation to climb. Slept there one night but now decided to abandon attempt. Afraid of more problems with Chinese Suzuki in early days on mountain; climbed to 600m on spur which leads to W Shoulder and many times to depot at 5900m with Saleki.

  Germans, etc: Cho Oyu's Haerter and Hupfaur told me they saw Saleki at Shigatse 29th May. Saleki agrees this date possible. They said he was being expelled for raising Tibetan flag on Everest (Saleki says he did not put it there, doesn't know who did) and would never again receive Chinese permit or visa.


expid: EVER90103
peakid: EVER
year: 1990
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Jim Whittaker, Vladimir Shataev, Lobsang Dawa
sponsor: International Peace Everest Expedition
ascent1: 102-105
countries: China, USSR
approach: Peking->Lhasa->BC
bcdate: 1990-03-09
smtdate: 1990-05-07
smttime: 1313
accidents: Woods pneumonia thrombophlebitis; Whittaker badly torn muscle
agency: Lost Fortunes
campsites:
  BC(10/03,5200m),C1(15/03,5500m),C2(17/03,6000m),ABC(19/03,6500m),C4(22/03,7050m),C5(11/04,7800m),C6(24/04,8200m),C7(06/05,8690m),Smt(07-10/05)

routememo:
  Source Peace Climb News - May 23, 1990

  After weeks of battling miserable weather and high winds, dealing with illness and injuries, repairing and replacing equipment -- plus Jim and Ray's encounter with the democratic revolution in Kathmandu, no one on the mountain would say it was easy. "It just shows what can be accomplished through international cooperation and teamwork," said Whittaker. "We had horrible conditions our first two months on the mountain. A lesser team would have been stopped. But we hung in there, got the routes and the camps in and carried up supplies. So we were in position to take advantage of the break when it finally came."

  The first summit group of six climbers left C6 on May 5 under less than ideal conditions: snow and wind. Lower on the mountain, it was snowing so hard that no one made carries to C4. But the next day, May 6th, dawned calm: it was one of the few windless days since the team had arrived at the Base Camp. Two Soviets (Grigory Luniakov and Sergei Arsentiev), two Chinese.

  Da Cheme, Gyal Bu and two Americans (Robert Link and Steve Gall) left C7 at daybreak, negotiated the difficult "Second Step" and set foot on the summit at 1:13 pm Beijing time.

  The first summit team descended through C6, some spending the night at C5, some at C4 and some at C3. Unbelievably, the weather held for another day, and before dawn on May 7, six more climbers left C6. Three of them (Ed Viesturs, Andrei Tselischev and Mistislav Gorbenko) climbed all the way to the summit, leapfrogging C7, and then descended to C6 - a feat never before accomplished on this route. And Viesturs and Tselischev managed it without the used of bottled oxygen.

  The second three (Ian Wade, Gui Sang and Da Qoing) spent the night at C7 and ascended to the summit on May 8. They were joined there by two more climbers, Ren Na and Luo Tse, who had started the ascent that day from C6. On the radio from the summit, Ian Wade yelled, "I'm on top! I feel fine! Now I want to get off here."

  On May 9, Jim reported from BC, "It is the most beautiful day yet. The sun is shining and the mountain looks spectacular. Seven more climbers are heading up from C6 (Mark Tucker, Ekaterina Ivanova, Anatoly Mochnikov, Ervand Ilyinsky, Alexander Tokarev, Wang Ja, and Jia Tsuo). It looks like they have a good shot if the weather holds." A few hours later, he called with the extraordinary news: "Six of the seven made it to the top - twenty climbers in all, over a four day period: the most ever to reach the summit on a single expedition!" Jia Tsuo descended because of frostbitten toes. He is expected to recover fully. But all the rest made the peak and descended without major problems.


  Climb Progress Report:

  Here is the itinerary followed by the Peace Climb from May 1 through May 16.

  May 2  First day of good weather! First summit teams move to C5, second 
         group moves to C4. Jim and Ian carry loads to C4. Hanging from
         fixed rope, Jim is patched in by radio to Port Townsend HQ..live!
         Trekkers return to Base
  May 4  Heavy snow and gusty winds at C3 and C4. First team moves to C6, 
         second to C5. Mark Tucker and Tim O'Brien carry from C4 to C5 and
         experience winds of 70 mph. They are airborne several times on
         the fixed line - they cache the loads and return to C4. Tuck
         returns to C3 to rest. Trekkers leave for Kathmandu.
  May 5  Weather calm above Base. First team moves to C7, other teams 
         behind with one day separations. High avalanche danger between C3
         and C4 - no one moves on that route.
  May 6  No wind! By 9:30 pm (Seattle time), the Peace Climb has 6 
         climbers on the summit. Port Townsend BC gets call from BC,
         patched to Jim at C3, then to Robert on the summit.
  May 7  Three more climbers reach the summit by 9:00 pm (Seattle time). 
         Viesturs and Andrei do it without oxygen from C6 -- the first
         time anyone had gone from C6 to the summit and back on this route
         Robert and Steve down from C5 to C3, Da Cheme and Gyal Bu down
         from C3 to Base. All summit teams progress up the mountain,
         separated by one camp. Jim goes back to BC.
  May 8  Third summit group puts five more on top! Gui Sang is the second 
         Chinese woman to reach the summit of Everest.
  May 9  It's getting crowded at C6. Some coming down and a new team going
         up. A cloud cap on the summit, but no plume which means no wind. 
         At 7:00 pm (Seattle time) six more are on top, for a total of 
         twenty! Jim is "stunned" at this spectacular success. Ekaterina 
         is the first Soviet woman on the summit of Everest, and she 
         records a message to the women of the world. Jia Tsuo turns
         around below the summit with frostbitten feet and returns to C3
         where he receives treatment. On the way down the mountain, Ian
         Wilde suffers snowblindness and is treated by Dr. Kurt Papenfus at C4.
  May 10 All summit climbers descend, cleaning up garbage and expedition
         gear as they move. "We've probably picked up a couple of tons of 
         trash," says Whittaker. "We brought down at least 50 old oxygen 
         cylinders from C4 alone. Maybe we'll shop some of it home and 
         auction it off to help pay the bills!" Steve and Robert arrive at
         Base and drink a Rainier Beer. Ian's eyes feel better and sight
         is returning. Patti calculates that she has 24 more meals to prepare.
  May 11 Team members from Base go up to C3 to pack it up for the yaks to 
         carry out. Tuck (Mark Tucker), Ian and Toly (Anatoly) down from 
         C3 to Base. Trekkers return to Seattle.
  May 12 Clean up continues. Yaks at ill.
  May 13 Tuck arrives at Base, gives Patti the day off and makes pancakes
         for all -- even though his fingers are black with frostbite (no
         permanent damage). "Snowing like mad" at Base. Jim and Warren 
         negotiate with Chinese regarding final payment for in-China expenses.
  May 14 LaVerne Woods returns to Seattle. She is in good spirits and
         recovering well from thrombophlebitis and pulmonary embolism.
  May 15 They're smelling the barn. Port Townsend HQ jumps through hoops, 
         leaps tall buildings and walks on water to change plane 
         reservations and get the team home a week early.
  May 17 5:58 pm (Seattle) Point. Townsend HQ faxes congratulatory letter
         President Bush to the entire team at BC. 6:15 pm (Seattle) Last 
         fax is transmitted from Mt. Everest Base Camp. Warren shuts down 
         communications equipment to pack up for trip home.


expid: EVER90107
peakid: EVER
year: 1990
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Glenn Porzak
sponsor: 1990 American Everest-Lhotse Expedition
ascent1: 106,108
bcdate: 1990-04-01
smtdate: 1990-05-10
smttime: 0715
termdate: 1990-05-18
othersmts: Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-901-01)
campsites: BC(01/04,5350m),C1(06/04,6000m),C2(08/04,6600m),C3(15/04,7150m),C4(27/04,7900m),Smt(10-11/05)
accidents: Manning slight frostbite; Browning serious pulmonary edema in descent from top
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col (2 big tents).

  28th April made 1st summit bid: all who actually succeeded on 10th except Manning & Lhakpa Dorje had reached C4. Porzak only on to go above C4, on 28th got to 8100m & turned back because winds were just bad as at Col and "couldn't see anything." 29th down to BC. 1st May snowed at BC, total storm day - and 5th also. 6th May perfect weather and started up 7th May. 9th May to Col despite very cold and almost turned back at yellow band but no wind; arrived Col at 1:00 pm but clear at 8:00 pm and started up at 11:00 pm in full moonlight, very cold snow deep; took turns leading until at 8500m Athans took lead and took off like madman at 12:30. Steep up to S Summit; avalanche danger at best and felt at any moment might go down Kangschung Face which in shadow; then sun popped up suddenly. Porzak used 1 liter/min part way, 2l/m most of way, 3l/m on summit. Porzak arrived at top about 7:15 am and stayed an hour. Ran out of oxygen in descent at 28,500 ft and arrived at Col in whiteout at 2:00 pm. He was surprised how steep SE Ridge was. 

  Lapkass intended to be in Lhotse team, then changed his mind, shot up to Everest. There were 2 Swedes from NZ expedition and Macartney-Snape at Col and these 4 went to summit together. Left Col 9:30 pm on 10th May and was first on top next morning - "it was a good trip, a good group of guys, great group of Sherpas."

  2 Sherpas went to S Col with May 10th summiters who stayed in C4, as per plan so they could help summit party.


  Wally Berg - 27 May 90

  10 minutes after we radioed from summit of Lhotse, the Sherpas were putting on city clothes and taking baths, despite Porzak's telling Sherpas in advance Berg and Fischer were to try Everest summit. Sherpas weren't ready to cooperate after other Everest successes and Lhotse's.

  Berg and Fischer could have gone for Everest top with Swiss if Berg and Fischer were prepared to go no lower than C2 and join Swiss on 16th to Everest top, but Berg and Fischer needed BC rest first.

  Fischer especially disappointed at losing chance for Everest summit. Berg also sorry, but have taken some consolation from reports that weather not good after 15th or so.


expid: EVER90105
peakid: EVER
year: 1990
route1: Lho La-W Ridge (to 7450m)
route2: S Col-SE Ridge (to 8200m)
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Beda Fuster
sponsor: Everest W Ridge Expedition
bcdate: 1990-03-28
smtdate: 1990-05-16
termdate: 1990-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 8200m due to freezing toes
campsites: BC(28/03,5300m),C1(12/04,6100m),C2(20/04,6850m),C3(09/05,7250m),xxx(16/05,8200m)
accidents: None
agency: Nepal Himal
routememo:
  BC at bottom of Khumbu Icefall
  C1 at Lho La
  C3 at beginning of shoulder
  High point at SE Ridge.

  When returned to C2 on 10th May, found much snow blown onto route, waist-deep snow (which buried fixed ropes) and avalanche danger so decided at C2 to abandon West Ridge attempt. 

  Then to South Col route, using American's Sherpas cook at their team's food for Swiss. At Col 15th May 11:00 pm (start) with only warm clothing to carry; arrived Col 1:00 pm 16th after 3 hrs stop to eat at C3. 3 American Sherpas took down American C3 and Steininger down with them. 16th Boesch and Fuster started up from Col 8:30-9:00 pm and reached 8200m at 11:00-1130 pm, then turned back because some wind from top (not very strong but constant) and no shelter to take off and massage freezing toes and five more hours until sun up to make temperature warmer; so gave up in order to avoid serious frostbite. Slept few hours at Col, then down to BC on 17th, through unmaintained icefall where route had collapsed in some places. By now American's Sherpas had cleared C2 in Cwm. No chance to go up because Sherpas leaving 19th-20th and Swiss had gone up to Col too soon after ridge climb. Reason for cold toes was insufficient rest before going to Col. Swiss had made arrrangements with Americans for them to leave supplies and tents for Swiss to use and American's Sherpas agreed to stay and help until 19th May.


  Expedition Report

  11.3:       Arrival in KTM with all members and all equipment
  11.3-15.3:  shopping in KTM
       15.3:  shopping in KTM
       15.3:  by bus to Jiri
  16.3-28.3:  approach Jiri - BC weather partially bad
  28.3-29.3:  installing BC
  30.3-11.4:  lining ropes up to Lho La climbing difficulties in the rock
              up to 6-7 weather very bad
  10  -10.4:  storm in BC destroyed some tents
       12.4:  C1 established on Lhola, - 6100m
  13.4-18.4:  lining ropes up to C2 (6850m)
       20.4:  established C2 (2 tents)
       21.4:  carrying equipment up to the shoulder (depot in 7200m) not 
              bottle oxygen
  22.4-24.4:  rest days in BC
  25.4-26.4:  list by all 6 members attempt up to 6550m, cancelled in snowstorm
  27.4- 6.5:  bad weather, rest days.
        7.5:  second attempt of all members; C1
        8.5:  2 members returned, the others up to C2, hard step breaking 
              in new snow which was crusted.
        9.5:  step breaking in new snow up to the depot on the shoulder after 
              reaching the shoulder Fuster and Ott returned, C3 in 7250m.
       10.5:  step breaking in wind pressed snow along the shoulder, 
              increasing avalanche danger heavy bags because of alpine style.
              The last two members returned after reaching 7450m descent to C2.
       11.5:  carry down all the equipment of C2 because in the slide down
              to the Lho La was more then (in snow, wind)
       12.5:  descent to BC
  13.5-14.5:  resting in BC, asking the Ministry of Tourism for permission
              to go on the southeast ridge route, the American expedition 
              offered us to use their tents.
       15.5:  ascent up to C2 (Steininger, Bosch and Fuster)
       16.5:  ascent up to South Col (Bosch and Fuster) and start in the 
              evening of to go to summit, after reached at altitude from 8200m.
       17.5:  descent down to BC
  15.5-17.5:  cleaning the Lho La - rock (taking out all hired ropes and 
              bringing down all equipment)
       20:5:  depart from BC
  24.5-25.5:  back in KTM (Lukla), everybody in good health.

  Kathmandu 24.5.90 by Bedi Fuster.


expid: EVER90106
peakid: EVER
year: 1990
route1: Lho La-W Ridge (to 7400m)
route2: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Timothy Macartney-Snape
sponsor: Australian Geographic Sea to Summit Expedition
ascent2: 110
bcdate: 1990-03-30
smtdate: 1990-05-11
smttime: 0945
termdate: 1990-05-14
campsites: BC(30/03,5350m),C1(05/04,6000m),C2(10/04,6400m),C3(09/05,7980m),Smt(11/05)
accidents: None
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  C1 (never occupied)
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 at South Col

  Walked from Bay of Bengal starting 5th Feb; went extra 300 km because India border crossing point had expected to use was closed. 

  Swiss on W Ridge needed more rope, thus Tim and 2 Sherpas (hired to carry film into Cwm) helped them carry it to Lho La and on up their C2 site and on top of W Shoulder at 7400m, where Tim spent night of 22 April to acclimatize; had good look at Tim's interested route. Then down directly into Cwm thinking route looked good but was windy (met Zabaleta and Habeler on ridge). Hornbein Couloir became dangerous because of snowfall and slab avalanche danger, which turned Swiss back. 

  On 8th May Tim decided to go for S Col route and on 9th May from C2 to Col during night and got to Col 9th morning; didn't feel good about going to top that day but on 10th at 10:00 pm left Col for top; Lapkass had left at 9:00 pm; Tim caught up with him at 2:00 am; Swede Mickey caught up with both of them at S Summit at 6:00 am; reached top at 9:45 am; other 2 within 20 minutes. 

  S Col route much harder work than N Face but from S Summit is very enjoyable.

  Tim: "If I hadn't been committed so much to summit, might have tried harder on W Ridge."


expid: EVER90104
peakid: EVER
year: 1990
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Chetra Bahadur Gurung
sponsor: Royal Nepal Army Expedition 1990
ascent1: 101
bcdate: 1990-03-26
smtdate: 1990-04-23
smttime: 1715
accidents: 2 summiters frostbite (Khatri toes and thumbs, Ang Kami toes)
agency: Kunga
campsites:
  BC(26/03,5485m),C1(04/04,6100m),ABC(12/04,6700m),C3(16/04,7300m),C4(23/04,7985m),C5(23/04,8530m),Smt(23/04)

routememo:
  ABC-C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col (Col at 7906m, according to NGS map)
  C5 at SE Ridge.

  Placed nearly 80 ladders in icefall: safest route ever in icefall. Army chief ordered establishment of C5 whether it would be used or not and in the event it saved lives of Padma Bahadur Tamang, Khatri and Ang Kami. 

  On 23 April eight men left C4: Phinzo Sherpa and Apa Sherpa established C5 at 2 pm and returned to C4 while Gopal Bahadur reached S Summit and slept in C5. On 24th April Gopal Bahadur climbed up to summiters, brought them to C5, gave them food and drink and oxygen there and then all five down to C4 that day. Summit party of four successful men: arose at C4 at midnight of 22/23 April; started climbing up at 2:00 am of 23rd despite wind; reached summit 5:15 pm (45 minutes) after their oxygen had run out; bivouacked at 28,000 ft at 6:30 pm at bottom of Hillary Step (bivouacked there because getting dark and they were tired); suffered frostbite during biv. Left biv at 6 am on 24th and slept that night in C4 which they reached at noon. No other summit bids.

  Ang Rita will go again to Everest? "Maybe"


expid: EVER90108
peakid: EVER
year: 1990
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Rob Hall
sponsor: New Zealand International Everest Expedition 1990
ascent1: 107,109
countries: Belgium, Canada, Sweden, USA
bcdate: 1990-04-01
smtdate: 1990-05-10
smttime: 0845
campsites: BC(01/04,5350m),C1(10/04,6100m),C2(14/04,6400m),C3(19/04,7300m),C4(09/05,7900m),Smt(10-11/05)
accidents: Van Snik serious snowblindness
agency: Wilderness Adventure
routememo:
  Hall talked to his mother from S Summit and Hillary with his father from summit. From summit 2 New Zealanders talked to NZ Prime Minister and Ed Hillary ("What like following your father's footsteps? asked reporters - Peter Hillary: I couldn't...see them anywhere." Prime Minister and Ed Hillary were in radio studio with half of NZ population listening in). Icefall was faster and easier than last year. Apa Sherpa was member of team.

  Peter Hillary: order of arrived on summit: 
    Dawa Nuru Sherpa from US expedition
    Hillary
    A Soviet man from north side
    Ball and Hall
    Apa Sherpa
    Van Snick


  Everest - The end of an Apprenticeship

  As Christchurch climber Rob Hall's voice boomed over the roof of the world, the 1990 Cold Water Surf Everest Challenge Expedition made the first broadcast from the summit of Everest direct into New Zealand homes.

  For Hall as expedition organiser and Leader, reaching the top was culmination of three years effort which included two previous attempts on the mountain.

  The summit of Everest effectively divides Chinese occupied Tibet from Nepal with snowflakes that fall on the top either ending up in the Tsang Po or the Ganges river catchments. As the three Kiwis were shaking hands, taking photographs and getting ready to dial up the New Zealand Prime Minister simply said to Gary "I USSR" handed him a postcard and asked Gary to take his pictures. Gary only had time to reply "I Kiwi" before the Soviet turned and stoped off down his ascent route, this climber was a member had already put 12 climbers on the summit over the previous ten days.

  Soon after the three days New Zealanders began the descent of the South East Ridge back to their camp on the 8000m South Col they were engulfed in a storm. Unable to see properly they were forced to remove their goggles which immediately exposed them to high levels of UV radiation. Snow blindness was to severely hamper each of the climbers during the retreat to their 5700m base camp below the dreaded Khumbu Icefall. Snowblindness is a UV burn of the cornea which feels like having hot sand thrown in the eyes. It effectively means the eyes are too painfull to open.

  Only twenty minutes below the summit the Kiwis met two other members of their international team who were sitll plodding upwards. Rudi Van Snick was soon to become the first Belgian to summit. He was accompanied by Apa Sherpa from Thame village only 50 kms from the base of the mountain. Unlike the other 14 support was invited as a friend and full climbing member of the team. Both Rudi and Apa were suffering from snowblindness by the time they reached the South Col just on dusk at 6 pm, a full two hours behind the New Zealanders. By now, Peter Hillary had descended to a lower camp in the Western Cwm.

  The weather remained fine next day so Gary and Apa, with watery inflamed eyes, set off to grope their way downwards. Rob, as the least affected, stayed on the South Col to nurse a totally blind Rudi. They lay in the tent sucking oxygen through a mask. Meanwhile, two of the three Swedish members of Rob's team, Michael Reutersvard and Oskar Kihlborg, both 26 year old, had made their own way to the summit. As the first Swedes on the summit they look great pleasure in calling the King of Sweden on the Satellite-linked radio.

  The Swedes spotted the lanky Australian climber, Tim Macartney-Snape, high above the South Col that day. Unlike their own ascent and that of the others in their team including, the New Zealanders, this Australian was travelling alone and wasn't using bottled oxygen. Everest is climbed regularly now without oxygen since Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler first proved the feat possible in 1978.

  Rob Hall finally joined Peter and Gary at BC on May 13th, having had an epic job guiding the still partially blind Rudi down the steep icy Lhotse Face (one serious fall) then through the 500m Khumbu Icefall - chaotic jumble of crumbling ice towers that has claimed many lives in the past. The relief in his voice when interviewed at base camp for this story was more than noticeable. As he said "only now have I truly climbed my Everest."


  Peter Hillary

  Everything went perfectly - "extraordinary spell of good weather." In 8 hours from Col to top on 10th and 2 hours down to Col and BC 11 May and spent 1/2 hour on top in which time Russian member of Peace Expedition turned up at about 8:30.

  "Its incredibly high: you think on the next step, you're joining Neal Armstrong."
  Really difficult - no yak route.


expid: EVER90109
peakid: EVER
year: 1990
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Karl Huyberechts
sponsor: Everest Expedition
bcdate: 1990-04-01
smtdate: 1990-05-08
termnote: Abandoned at 8500m due to oxygen system failure
campsites: BC(01/04,5350m),C1(09/04,6100m),C2(12/04,6500m),C3(17/04,7200m),C4(22/04,7960m),xxx(08/05,8500m)
accidents: None
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at top of icefall
  C2 in Cwm
  C3 on West Face of Lhotse
  C4 at South Col
  High point at SE Ridge.

  1st summit attempt on 28th did not go above C4 because of wind, so down to BC with Americans who were also in C4. Had pitched C4 on 22nd but did not sleep there; again to C4 7th May; weather on 7th unsettled; slept there night of 6th & started up on 7th with his 3 Sherpas. Oxygen regulator leaking at the start and after 2 hours bottle nearly empty at 8200m in no wind. Took a Sherpa's regulator (Sherpas to use oxygen at 8500m at 5:00 am when bottle empty and down to C4 at 6:00 am because Sherpa refused to climb without oxygen. Karl wanted to try without oxygen but too dangerous to go alone with no one from other teams at C4. Hhad no funds to buy new regulator and more oxygen ($300 for 1 bottle from Americans). Karl will return in autumn and climb without oxygen.


expid: EVER91108
peakid: EVER
year: 1991
route1: SW Face (Bonington rte)
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Kang-Oh
sponsor: 1991 Korean Everest SW Face Expedition
bcdate: 1991-03-30
smtdate: 1991-05-02
termnote: Abandoned at 8350m due to bad snow conditions
campsites:
  BC(30/03,5400m),C1(05/04,6050m),C2(07/04,6450m),C3(17/04,6950m),C4(23/04,7600m),C5(01/05,8300m),xxx(02/05,8350m)

routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 at Western Cwm
  C3 on SW Face
  C4 on SW Face (bottom of Couloir)
  C5 on SW Face (bottom of rock band) by Sun-Woo Nam and Jin-Sung Kim.

  Started climbing 3rd April. Found very strong tents of Bonington expedition on face. No snow, so could see ice screws on bare rock, fixed ropes of 8-9 expeditions, much dangerous falling rock. Never in previous visits to Khumbu saw face so black. Made fixed ropes to C4 site on 28th April but tent and member only on 1 May and could not pitch tent and had to biv. 2nd May Nam tried climbing rock band but rock condition too bad: 3 cm covering rock from 1 May. Snowfall - "so we gave up." 2 men biv at C5 site but on 2nd only Nam tried to go up: Kim Jin-Sung descended that morning as both men knew snow condition impossible for success. No more attempts: snow falling on 2nd and 3rd also.


  Park Young-Seok - 1 April 2007

  Park Young-Seok said on 1 April 2007 that while he was making the route on the SW Face, when he was at 7000m he was being belayed by a Sherpa who suddenly pulled on the rope and caused Park to fall 150m. His facial bones were broken in three places.

accidents:
  Park lead climbing above C3 and fell injuring leg and dropped out; 1 Sherpa toes frostbitten but will heal; Chong altitude sickness at C2


expid: KANG90101
peakid: KANG
year: 1990
route1: N Ridge-N Face
nation: Poland
leaders: Anna Czerwinska
sponsor: Polish Kangchenjunga Expedition
countries: Spain
approach: Basantapur->Pangpema
bcdate: 1990-03-27
smtdate: 1990-05-13
termdate: 1990-05-17
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to bad weather and Spaniard's impatience
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Rover Treks
campsites:
  BC(27/03,5150m),C1(02/04,5800m),C2A(11/04,6500m),C2B(14/04,6700m),TempC3(26/04,7100m),C3(11/05,7300m),xxx(13/05,7800m)

routememo:
  BC at normal site -(Pangpema)
  2nd C2 at safer place in crevasse
  Temp at highest site possible in strong wind - N Ridge
  Final camp 3 also on North Ridge below the "castle"
  High point little below North Ridge at bottom of Couloir.

  10 days of bad weather in late April and early May and during this period friction arose between Poles and Basques because of uneven abilities: Tomas did outstanding job of fixing ice wall. Alduz the other experienced Basque lost interest in climb after avalanche. 2 others very young and one of them twice had acclimatization problem; inexperienced Basques had no experience carrying loads. Communication difficult between Basque and Poles: Basques wanted to make summit attack in a large party which meant low last camp, cramped in tents, poor sleep, etc. Team made to 7600-7800m and forced back by bad weather. Spaniards had fixed departure date from Nepal and had to hurry: wouldn't wait for making C4, instead made summit push from C3 which failed; this was only summit bid because weather continued to be bad with heavy clouds and snowfall. Basques informed leader very late that they had to leave BC on 15th May. Another problem was that other 2 Polish women wanted to climb only with Basques. Czerwinska and Palmowska were in C3 on 13th waiting to go up on 14th to make a C4 and go for top, but on 14th windy and cloudy. Actual summit attack began at 10:00 pm on 12th in wind.

  Actually was possible for Basques to stay beyond 15th May: on 16th Tomas and Ochoa actually decided to try push to top and went up from BC for one hour & then decided loads too heavy. Communication problem was not language problem but younger climbers did not listen to older Polish leaders, who had climbed with Aldaz on Makalu and counted on him to be communicator, but when he had narrow miss with big avalanche of seracs, he lost interest in climb and stayed mostly in BC, went no higher (and wanted to go no higher) than C1.

  Summit bid of 12/13 May by Kaploniak, Larregui, Ochoa, Patynowska and Tomas, all of whom reached 7600m. Ochoa got highest at 7800m and others varying altitudes in between.


expid: KANG90102
peakid: KANG
year: 1990
route1: SW Face
nation: USA
leaders: Robert Gustke
sponsor: 1990 American Kangchenjunga Expedition
ascent1: 36th
approach: Taplejung by air
bcdate: 1990-04-07
smtdate: 1990-05-15
smttime: 1645
termdate: 1990-05-18
campsites: BC(07/04,5500m),C1(13/04,6200m),C2(21/04,6620m),C3(01/05,7200m),C4(12/05,7800m),Smt(15/05)
accidents: Gustke frostbitten nose (will heal) and stomach trouble
agency: Above the Clouds
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 just below the hump
  C2 at lower 1/3 of upper icefall
  C3 at top of upper icefall just below Great Shelf
  C4 just below sickle in gangway.

  Did not have resources to stock a 5th camp since they had no Sherpas. C4 established by Bercaw and Miller and all others helped carry up supplies but in night of 14th only Udall and Gustke occupied camp while 4 others returned to C3. Udall and Gustke left C4 at 2:30 am in clear, calm and cold weather but with bad snow conditions: crusted with snow underneath to mid-calf hence much slower progress than expected: top of gangway reached only 11 am at 27000 ft. Gustke's oxygen ran out this point. Udall went ahead of him rapidly, Gustke stopped at 8400m and descended 100m to wait for Udall, who was now out of sight. Udall plodded up in mixed rock snow which was slow but not steep; on top at 4:45 pm in sunny weather, calm on south side; stayed 5 minutes on top. Reached Gustke at 7 pm; it was dark and freezing and took 5 hrs to get to C4 (only had one head lamp that worked and wind had come up and obliterate track); found 7-8 ft high pole (red and white) perhaps left by Soviets. BC to C1 some water ice was more difficult than expected and fixed 2000 ft here; otherwise not difficult technically. Used a safer but more indirect route. Was some avalanche danger not requiring longer route.


expid: LHOT90102
peakid: LHOT
year: 1990
route1: S Face (central part)
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Tomo Cesen
sponsor: Yugoslav Lhotse-Annapurna Expedition
ascent1: 21st disputed
bcdate: 1990-04-15
smtdate: 1990-04-24
smttime: 1420
termdate: 1990-04-28
termnote: Success disputed
othersmts: Had permit for Annapurna I, but did not attempt
campsites: BC(15/04,4850m),Biv1(23/04,7500m),Biv2(23/04,8200m),Biv3(24/04,7300m),Smt(24/04)
accidents: Frostnip of toes and fingers (they have no feeling but otherwise OK)
achievment: 1st solo of S Face
agency: Wilderness Adventure
routememo:
  BC at half lower above Chhukung, wall protected from wind (Yugo BC no water).

  After BC, acclimatization 16th and 17th April to bottom of face where left gear for climb and 17th crossed glacier towards SE Ridge of Lhotse Shar to 5900m at a col. Could see face and listen for rock fall (was much rockfall when clear in daytime and sun was on S Face); then very dangerous. 18th rest at BC. 19th acclimatized to 7150m on SE Ridge (nearly to C3 on 87) and back to BC. 20th to 6000m on SE Ridge, felt well acclimatized and didn't want to waste strength going higher on ridge so back to BC. 21 rest at BC. 22nd started up; after lunch to bottom of face with doctor carrying extra food for Cesen to eat at bottom of face where had left gear (100m of 6m rope, 6-9 rock pitons, 19 ice pitons all of titanium, sleeping bag, biv sack, walkie-talkie, no stove or gear, extra gloves, socks and goggles; crampons, harness and ice ax, 1 piece Italian pile with down inside jumpsuit, helmet, head lamp, Neoprene gaiters; food; 3 liters liquid in 3 thermoses; still camera and extra film but never took off gloves to change film or open the camera.

  Doctor returned to BC while Cesen started up face at 5 pm from 5200m; climbed during night and stopped at 8 am at 7500m to rest & because of danger of rockfall and snow avalanching (every afternoon light snowfall and some wind) which was stronger in valley than higher) and slept 5 hrs here in very safe snow ledge under overhanging rock spur; 1:00 pm started up again under shady sky and climbed to 11:00 pm bottom of rock band at 8200m after continuous climb till 5-6:00 pm and then fog obscured face and needed to wait till could see until after 9:00+ pm because clear weather. 2nd biv at 8200m, a biv "I want to forget as soon as possible" because very cold ("shaking all the night"), high altitude and remember 8400m-Yalung Kang biv after teammate fell to his death. Biv was just under rock band pillar which ends at summit ridge; safe place and not steep; did not sleep beause of danger of freezing to death. Started again up at 5:00 am. On 24th most difficult part was just above biv and was 50-70m high: bad rock, steep, unconsolidated snow below onto rock - here used rock piton, climbed up to it and put in 2nd piton. Took 3 hrs to overcome this difficulty at such high altitude. At biv left rucksack, sleeping bag, food, biv sack. At top of difficult part left rope fixed for descent (not to come down W Face - carrying this gear was too much to carry). 15m above difficult part came onto ridge which was not tecnically difficult but deep snow and had to traverse this long ridge. Then down to col and finally up 50m to top at 2:20 pm on 24th. On difficult part stopped to rest after exhausting climbing; this finished at 8:20 am; above that also many rests but now only for short periods; "terrible" wind on top and too dangerous to extend on very top but stood 2m below it.  

  Immediately down after brief walkie-talkie contact with BC. Weather now worse and worse with wind and snow and came down fast as possible but at 7800m stopped an hour because of avalanche which swept him 50-100m at 45-degree slope and many more avalanches coming down. Not injured but frightened by it; continued on down when no avalanches and face clear, found pitons which used abseiling down. Stopped again with clouds obscured face, slight snowfall, feared weather would get worse (but no wind in afternoon and night) and made biv at 9:00 pm for 3 hrs (did not sleep). At midnight weather clear and started down again and descended continuously till 7:00 am to bottom face, where doctor met him with food and drink, rest 2-1/2 hours back to BC at 11-12 on 25th. Felt very good in BC that afternoon: mentally exhausted by having to be so carefull in descent, avalanche fright and sound of many avalanches down Polish route; but not physically exhausted that day. Next day physically exhausted. Left BC 28th April. Total 45 hrs from bottom of face to top including stops. 62 hrs from bottom of face to bottom of face.

  Wants to dedicate route to memory of Alex Kunaver. "I'm glad the face was climbed by Yugo" - Lhotse S Face not really so difficult technically as Jannu N Face but much taller and broader "and you feel very small". "I am satisfied" with this climb. Next: Annapurna W Face, perhaps Troillet line in Autumn 1990 or 1991 Spring.

  NOTE: Cesen's ascent is now generally doubted by others in part because photos of summit claimed to have been taken by Cesen were taken by Victor Groselj from an earlier expedition. See "Reasonable Doubt" by Greg Child, Climbing magazine, 142, Feb 1, 1994 


  Yugoslavian Lhotse expedition - Spring 1990

  Tomo Cesen's amazing feat of soloing Lhotse's formidable south face brought instant praise and fame. But doubts about his claim began to be raised not long afterwards when a compatriot, Viktor (Vikki) Groselj protested that Cesen had published  Groselj's photographs as his own. I talked with to Tone Skarja, a senior figure in Yugoslavia/Slovenian mountaineering, about this on 13 Dec 93, and he said he believed Cesen's account was true. In the beginning after his return from Nepal, Cesen said he had no camera and therefore no pictures, but under pressure from his sponsors, after several months he produced some slides which turned out to be those taken by Groselj. Skarja explained to me that Cesen is a "simple person," did not think ahead to the problems that could develop, and "now he is a confused man."

  A Soviet expedition of 17 climbing members with no high-altitude Sherpas went to the South Face in 1990 autumn and managed to put two members on the top with the use of bottled oxygen on their summit day, despite considerable technical difficulties and severe cold. One summiter, Sergei Bershov, told me of his grave doubt that one man alone could have climbed the face, and they later publicly suggested that perhaps he had reached the middle summit.

  Reinhold Messner gave Cesen great praise and an award for the South Face solo soon after the climb said he believed Cesen's account, but after doubts were raised by a number of people, Messner stated that he now did not believe or disbelieve Cesen.

  In a 1994 issue of Climbing Magazine (February 1-March 15 issue) was an article titled "Reasonable Doubt" by the Australian mountaineer and writer about climbing, Greg Child who thoroughly examined Cesen's claim and concluded that "there is really no way of knowing [whether Cesen summited or not], short of climbing that awesome wall and searching for the pitons Cesen told me left above 27,000 feet."

  Another Slovenian climber, who accomplished remarkable face climbs in the 1990's, Tomaz Humar, said to me on 9 Sept 1999 that Cesen's accounts of his Lhotse climb have not stood up under detailed questioning. (Humar said Greg Child's article about Cesen's Lhotse claim was excellent). Humar also said that now people are even questioning Cesen's climb of Jannu in the spring of 1989; he does no more climbing and lives in obscurity.


  1 June 2000

  Re: Tom Cesen, Lhotse

  Slovenian Lhotse expedition leader and both summiters are sure Cesan did not reach summit in Spring 1990. "No one believe him now" about this claim on his Jannu ascent in 1989 spring or his claim to historic ascents or five peaks in Alps in winter (before Jannu).


  Tone Skarja - 13 Feb 93

  Skarja believes Cesen did climb Lhotse. In the beginning after his return from Nepal, he said he had no camera and therefore no pictures, but under pressure from his sponsors, after several months he produced slides, which turned out to be sections of Groselj pictures.

  Cesen is "a simple person," did not think ahead to the problems that could develop and is now a confused man.


  Tomazin, Slovene Xixa - 17 Sept 93

  Cesen used Groselj pictures of Lhotse without immediately denying Vertical's credition them to Cesen.

  Cesen has said reaching 8000m summit is not the important thing, where Groselj is trying for all 14.

  Skarja sides with Groselj in their feud but Skarja is considered too dictatorial and domineering by many climbers especially young ones.

  To Tomaju's knowledge Messner has not contradicted Cesen's Lhotse claim.


  Tomaz Humar - 7 Nov 2006

  Tomaz Humar's comments about Tomo Cesen's claimed ascent via the South Face: "It is possible Tomo did make the summit.... I don't say he did, but I don't say he didn't." When people can't do something themselves, they say no one can. Humar has seen the South Face, and he thinks Cesen could have gone all the way to the top alone. He was a very strong climber. Lhotse's South Face is not so difficult as Jannu's North Face, which Cesen also said he soloed. Humar also has seen Jannu's North Face and thinks it is possible that he summited. Tomaz also believes that the Jannu face is more difficult because of the greater danger of falling rock on the face.


expid: MAKA90102
peakid: MAKA
year: 1990
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Makoto Hara
sponsor: Research Center of High Mountains Mount Makalu Expedition
ascent1: 31st
countries: Poland
bcdate: 1990-04-07
smtdate: 1990-05-06
campsites: BC(07/04,5300m),C1(04/04,6200m),C2(21/04,6850m),C3(04/05,7400m),C4(05/05,7750m),Smt(06/05)
accidents: None
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at normal high BC at glaciers' junction
  C1 on glacier
  C3 at Makalu Col
  C4 at NW Ridge.

  Reached C3 early but built it up only 4th May in final stage of climb. On 6th May, Hara, Onishi, Ang Babu Sherpa and Nima Dorje Sherpa went up from C4.  Hara and Ang Babu turned back from 8300m when Hara's oxygen pressure failed. Onishi and Nima Dorje continued on to summit.

  On May 2 Polish woman to C3. 7th May failed to reach C4 because windy and snow falling; 8th May to C4. 9th May tried for summit but again very windy and Wanda said C4 very low for their oxygenless ascent and turned back to BC same day. No more tents for C5 so 10th May C1 brought down.

  Jap and Polish BC - 5300m
          Polish C1 - 6500m
  Jap and Polish C2 - 6850m
          Polish C3 - 7250m
  Jap            C4 - 7500m

  Poles left 2 tents in KTM at Japanese statement they had enough tents, but their tents were heavy, for 4 persons, and not enough light tents to make a C5. Wanda reached 7550m 9th, according to Wanda's altimeter and Ewa. Then to BC 10th and again Wanda up alone. How high, she won't say; apparently higher than 7550m but apparently not to summit [Josef Nyka says women reached 7900m].

  Polish women were very unhappy about Japanese men's altitude: "they did everything to prevent our success." After Ohnishi reached summit, they declared expedition was over and Poles not allowed to go up the mountain again. Threatened to get Tourism Ministry to ban them if they did go up and may make a complaint to Ministry, which is why Wanda refused to say how high she reached.

  "Two different styles." Poles, no Sherpas, no oxygen, tried to be a separate team.


expid: MAKA90103
peakid: MAKA
year: 1990
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Indonesia
leaders: Taufiz Afriansyah
sponsor: Makalu Himalaya Trupala Indonesia Expedition
bcdate: 1990-05-25
smtdate: 1990-06-11
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to fatigue and lack of food
campsites: BC(25/05,5300m),C3(09/06,7400m),xxx(11/06,7800m)
accidents: Nothing serious; some altitude sickness
agency: Sherpa Trekking Service (STS)
routememo:
  Planned to attempt summit from C3. Reached 7800m then turned back because very tired and not enough food at C3.

  Climbing permit expired 31 May and visas expired. 

  Mailrunner left BC 13th June to come to KTM.


expid: MAKA90101
peakid: MAKA
year: 1990
route1: W Pillar
nation: USA
leaders: Catherine (Kitty) Calhoun
sponsor: Makalu W Pillar Expedition
ascent1: 32nd
approach: Hille->Shipton Pass->Makalu BC
bcdate: 1990-03-26
smtdate: 1990-05-18
smttime: 1145
termdate: 1990-05-24
campsites: BC(26/03,5300m),C1(04/04,8950m),C2(14/04,6550m),C3(29/04,7380m),C4(14/05,7770m),Smt(18/05)
accidents: Lots of bronchitis and some frostnip among members
achievment: 1st woman on summit
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  BC on opposite side of Chago Glacier and slightly below high BC for normal route
  C1 near where ice begins on West Ridge
  C2 in ice cave on ridge before pillar proper
  C3 where rock gets steep: start of West Pillar proper
  C4 at top of steep rock.

  Fixed 9500 ft rope from C1 to C4 (almost entire route). 1st summit bid on 16th May by [Shutt], Calhoun and Grissom and reached 8100m but wind drove them back. Grissom now coughing badly so he descended while Calhoun stayed at C4 to rest and try again 2 days later. Luckily weather good on 18th and started up at 1:30 am in light snowfall but little wind; snowfall stopped but cloudy and misty. Strong wind at summit at 11:45 am and back to C4 at 4:45 pm. Safe route but lot of technical climbing. No avalanche or rock fall. All members reached C3. Left BC 24th May.


expid: BARU90101
peakid: BARU
year: 1990
route1: SE Ridge
nation: W Germany
leaders: Hans Eitel
sponsor: German Baruntse Expedition
bcdate: 1990-04-07
smtdate: 1990-04-11
termdate: 1990-04-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to no experienced person to climb with
campsites: BC(07/04,5200m),C1(08/04,6050m),xxx(11/04,6500m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC across Barun Glacier from point 5750m on rocks leading to steep ice towards
     Sherpani Col
  C1 at east of point 6480m southwest of point 6680m.

  Expected to have team of 5 Germans but 3 came after Eitel and Brackmann and decided not to go to Baruntse. Big problem to arrive at BC because of deep snow beyond Sedua. Brackmann never went above BC because very weak. This left Eitel with only cook to climb with (cook was a Sherpa and insured for altitude, but had no knowledge of climbing). Made C1 and deposit beyond it at start of SE Ridge; Eitel hoped Brackmann could climb after rope fixed to C1 but when returned to BC Eitel found Brackmann unable to climb at all. 10-11 April Eitel and cook had come to C1 and made deposit on lower glacier towards S Ridge and then down to BC on 11 April and 14 April to C1 and deposit to bring back all equipment. 

  Day-to-day  Eitel's movements:
  7th April  - all arrive BC
  8th April  - Eitel and cook made C1
  9th April  - down to BC
  10th April - Eitel and cook to C1
  11th April - Eitel and cook to deposit and back to BC
  12th April - all in C except Brackmann who leaves for KTM
  13th April - in BC
  14th April - Eitel and cook up to clear gear; sleep C1
  15th April - down to BC

  Eitel and staff left BC 18 April as originally scheduled.

accidents:
  Brackmann altitude sickness (1st time in Himalayas) or new man's psychological problems with big mountains?


expid: CHOY90202
peakid: CHOY
year: 1990
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: Belgium
leaders: Alain Hubert
sponsor: Belgian Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 71st
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1990-07-26
smtdate: 1990-08-23
smttime: 1100
accidents: None
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
campsites:
  ChineseBC(26,29/07,5000m),ABC(02/08,5780m),C1(04/08,6400m),C2(07/08,7000m),C3(22/08,7600m),Smt(23/08)

routememo:
  High point on NW Face.

  Had lot of fresh snow every day at BC. 12 Aug, 1st summit attempt from C2 to 7800m by Hubert and Lange; turned back by deep snow. 18th Hubert went by direct line and reached 7900m but snow falling heavily and avalanche danger too great. 22nd Hubert & Lange left C2 with tent which pitched at 7600m. 23rd 2:00 am from C3 and reached top at 11:00 am. With snow always deep just below knee to above hip required some rock climbing but safer from avalanches. All 3 attempts via direct line. On 23rd down to C2 and 24th to BC. 23rd very cold with strong wind; Hubert started 2 slab avalanches.


expid: CHOY90204
peakid: CHOY
year: 1990
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: Spain
leaders: Juan Ignacio Lorente
sponsor: Basque Expedition to Cho Oyu 1990
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1990-08-14
smtdate: 1990-08-22
termdate: 1990-09-09
termnote: Abandoned at 7550m due to heavy snowfall and avalanching
accidents: Lorente serious altitude sickness
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  ChineseBC(11/08,4700m),ABC(14/08,5780m),C1(17/08,6300m),C2(20/08,7000m),C3(22/08,7550m),xxx(22,28/08,7550m)

routememo:
  Chinese BC at road
  C3 near NW Ridge
  High point near NW Ridge.

  2 times climbers arrived at C3, once to install camp and once for summit bid, but had to go down next day instead bacause of heavy snowfall and avalanching: 

  22 Aug - Ruiz and Urbieta established C3.
  28 Aug - Gomez and Musal Kaji Tamang to C3; Gomez slept there one night, Tamang 
           "no good" and immediately down.
  31 Aug - Another summit team left BC for summit bid but reached only C2. Again 
           heavy snowfall and down from C2 2 Sept to BC. Expedition now finished.

  4th Sept sent for yaks, 8th Sept arrived Chinese BC and 9th Sept by road to Khasa.

  2 members left early: Lorente with pulmonary edema 11th Aug; from Chinese BC to hospital at Shegar and then to KTM; Rosen with him; "morale not good - mental problem."


expid: CHOY90201
peakid: CHOY
year: 1990
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: UK
leaders: Harold Taylor
sponsor: High Adventure - to Cho Oyu Xixabangma
ascent1: 70th
countries: France, New Zealand, Switzerland
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1990-06-10
smtdate: 1990-06-21
othersmts: Climbed Xixabangma (central summit)
campsites: BC(10/06,4800m),ABC(14/06,5800m),C1(17/06,6600m),C2(19/06,7400m),Smt(21/06)
accidents: None
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  2nd summit attempt on 25 June reached 7600m and party [Taylor, Brice and Khun] parapented from 7400m.

  This was first all-summer climb of Cho Oyu. Batard was Cho Oyu in Aug 1988 and reached summit on 1 Sept.


expid: CHOY90203
peakid: CHOY
year: 1990
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: Japan
leaders: Ryoichi Fukada
sponsor: RCC Cho Oyu Expedition 1990
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC & Lhasa->BC from Japan
bcdate: 1990-08-13
smtdate: 1990-08-31
termdate: 1990-09-06
termnote: Abandoned at 8050m due to deep snow and a few exhausted climbers
accidents: Fukushima pulmonary edema; Chandra Gurung (cook) unknown illness at Japanese BC, died at Chinese BC
agency: Himalayan Journeys
campsites:
  ChineseBC(10/08,4950m),ABC(13/08,5700m),C1A(14/08,6000m),C1B(15/08,6350m),C2(22/08,7000m),xxx(31/08,8050m)

routememo:
  C1A (deposit camp really)
  High point at NW Face.

  Summit bid: 1st on 29 Aug, started 5:30 am Chinese time by Suda, Fukada, Okabe & 2 Sherpas (Dawa Tenzing and Ang Dorje); reached 7600m, site for C3 but camps not established. Not on normal route but more direct (like Belgians this summer). Turned back by chest-deep snow and fear of avalanche (Fukuda and Okabe stopped at 7300-7400m). 3 members were climbing on oxygen in order to climb quickly but Okabe had problem with oxygen apparatus (French masks) so turned back.

  2nd bid on 31 Aug by Suda, Okabe & Ang Dorje; started 3:30 am from C2 and reached 8050m at 4:00 pm and again too much snow after climbing over snow-slab overhang, which thought was summit. Above this very deep soft snow. Ang Dorje had turned back at 7600m. Again Japanese members climbed on oxygen. Left BC 6 Sept (Sokumi left BC 31 Aug to return to work).


expid: SAIP90302
peakid: SAIP
year: 1990
route1: NE Ridge
route2: WSW Ridge of Firnkopf-W Ridge of Saipal
nation: Austria
leaders: Franz Kroell
sponsor: Austrian-German Expedition to Saipal
ascent1: 6th
countries: Germany
approach: Simikot->Karnali River->Chala village->Kailang Khola
bcdate: 1990-10-09
smtdate: 1990-10-28
othersmts: Climbed Saipal East Humla (2nd ascent)
campsites: BC(09/10,4050m),C1(13/10,5100m),C2(15/10,5600m),C3(18/10,6100m),C4(27/10,6500m),Smt(28/10)
accidents: Doctor altitude sickness at C3 (not serious)
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC at North Saipal Glacier
  C1 at moraine on east side of North Saipal Glacier
  C2 at moraine on east side of North Saipal Glacier
  C3 at small ridge where it joins NE Ridge
  C4 on NE Ridge.

  This easiest route on Saipal. 500m fixed rope between C2 and C3 mixed rock and ice 45 degrees (not so steep); this only section fixed.


expid: SAIP90301
peakid: SAIP
year: 1990
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Gaston Zoller
sponsor: Expedition N Saipal 1990
ascent1: 5th
countries: France
approach: Kailang Khola
bcdate: 1990-09-19
smtdate: 1990-10-26
termdate: 1990-10-28
othersmts: Climbed Saipal East Humla (1st ascent)
campsites: BC(19/09,4050m),C1(05/10,5100m),C2(09/10,5700m),C3(12/10,6250m),Biv(25/10,6500m),Smt(26/10)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Pabil Treks
routememo:
  BC at North Saipal Glacier at start of Karsang Khola
  C2 on NE Ridge (same site as German's camps)
  C3 on NE Ridge.

  Germans came a week later than Swiss-French, came up there fixed ropes and put camps at same sites. "A little human problem - 2 expeditions on same route is little problem." Big snow and wind storm on night of 12th and for 2 days impossible to move in fog and avalanche danger. Afterwards very clear and all white. 15th to C1. Now 3 times tried to get to C3. On 24th Oct Montaz, Zoller, Tendi Sherpa and Rinzi Sherpa from BC to C2, 25th Montaz, Zoller and Tendi from C2 to biv at 6500m, and 26th to summit. Zoller had stomach problem and stopped 1 hour before summit (6900m) from main summit. Montaz, Zoller and Tendi slept at biv 26th and on 27th to C1. All members left BC 28th Oct.


expid: TILI90302
peakid: TILI
year: 1990
route1: NE Spur-N Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Guy Abert
sponsor: French Expedition Abert/Jaccoux Tilicho
approach: via Manang (left over Mesa Kanta Pass to Kali Gandaki)
bcdate: 1990-10-28
smtdate: 1990-11-05
termdate: 1990-11-06
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to dangerous snow conditions
campsites: BC(28/10,4970m),C1(01/11,5600m),C2(04/11,6000m),xxx(05/11,6200m)
accidents: None
agency: Sherpa Society
routememo:
  Could not reach main ridge because of slab avalanche danger. Tried to make route to main ridge but Abert fell a short distance. Had intended to go to top on 6th Nov, but 2 hrs short of main ridge turned back.


expid: TILI90301
peakid: TILI
year: 1990
route1: S Ridge-S Face
nation: UK
leaders: Matthew Dower
sponsor: British Army Tilicho Peak Expedition
bcdate: 1990-09-28
smtdate: 1990-10-20
termdate: 1990-10-23
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to difficult head wall
campsites: BC(28/09,4360m),ABC(30/09,5040m),C1(04/10,5430m),C2(10/10,5730m),Biv(20/10,6300m),xxx(20/10,6500m)
accidents: Dower fell
agency: Sherpa Cooperative Trekking (SCT)
routememo:
  BC  at normal Annapurna I North Face BC's site
  ABC below a ridge running south 500m about thing upper head wall=S Face
  C2  below upper headwall
  Biv at only ridge possible without hammock on S Face.

  Had more camps than perhaps normal because wanted to do new route and were looking at mountain that normally need 2 high camps. 1st climbing problem was to gain S Ridge and forced serac and southern end of this ridge. Fixed 250m to C1 at beginning of snow ridge, the S Ridge. Lost 6 kg and up of food to crows (Tibetan ravens?) at ABC. Ridge not technically difficult: no cornices. Upper head wall next which is 1000m high and ends at snow plateau. Loose shale rock with only 2 small ledges but ice fields and snow fluting. No campsites. Fixed ropes between 6000m and 6300m and then accident: Dower 12th Oct was soloing above fixed ropes when he fell at 150m (fixing rope not yet finished) and fell 50 vertical meters broke arm and fractured/clipped his pelvis. Hickie and Helmore got him down and Ridoutt rushed to Jomsom to summon a helicopter which removed him from BC 16th Oct. Now remaining climbers very tired and Dower's unnecessary risk cost the others the summit. 

  Resumed climb on 16th and fixed more rope. 20th Oct summit bid from C2 but climb on head wall harder than expected and got only to 6500m. Steep shaley rock and snow flutings = dangerous and steep route. Had no sleeping gear with them and getting dark so bivouacked in open at 6300m and down to C2 on 21st; no food in C2 and now Donnini now acute altitude sickness (and put on Spanish oxygen) and Ridoutt retreated with hemorrhage, so now only 2 fit climbers (doctor non-climber really and busy with sick members). C3 needed a snow plateau. Decided to stop attempt to climb on 22 Oct and went on again only to strip mountain (decision taken at C2).


expid: CHUR90301
peakid: CHUR
year: 1990
route1: SE Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Gyu-Young
sponsor: 1990 Korea Churen Himal Expedition
ascent1: 4th Central Smt
bcdate: 1990-08-26
smtdate: 1990-09-14
smttime: 0920
othersmts: Climbed Churen Himal West (CHRW-903-01)
campsites: BC(26/08,4550m),C1(02/09,5050m),C3(06/09,6280m),C4(09/09,6600m),C5(11/09,6870m),Smt(14/09)
routememo:
  BC southwest of point 4738m
  C1 near Gustang North Ridge - East Glacier west of this ridge
  C2 below SW Face of Dhaulagiri V
  C3 below Dhaulagiri VI West Ridge
  C4 at bottom of SE Face of Churen East Peak
  C5 on SE Face of Central Peak.

  From C5 one team to Central Peak and one to West Peak 9:30 am and returned to C5 1:30 pm and slept there; Central Peak party started from C5 5:10 am and reached summit 9:20 am and returned C5 1:50 pm and slept in C5; difficult climbing from C2 to C3 because had to traverse a peak; next most difficult part was descending from C4 to C5 on way to C5, where was steep ice wall covered by snow on part of it and on part bare ice; fixed total 1700m rope.

  2 members who did not make a summit had altitude sickness and remained at C4 2 nights, descended 15th Sept; waited at C2 till summit parties arrived and all together to BC.

accidents:
  Climbing Ghustung Ridge, 1 member hit in leg by falling stone but climbed later; 2 members who did not make a summit had altitude sickness and stayed at C4 2 nights, descended Sept 15


expid: KJRS90301
peakid: KJRS
year: 1990
nation: France
leaders: Dominique Mathieu-Goudier
sponsor: Dolpo Kanjiroba Expedition
termnote: Did not reach BC
othersmts: Climbed Dudh Kundari (6014m)
accidents: None
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Left KTM 18th Sept by road to Tansen. Trekked via Dhorpatan, Tarakot, Tarap Khola, Tarapgaon, Kagmara La and Jagdula Khola and back to Hurikot and Jumla. Could not reach BC area because Jagdula Khola's steep slopes and rock cliffs difficult for porters. Good path on west side of Jagdula Khola to point roughly opposite point 15,750 ft on trekking map, Jomsom to Jumla and Surkhet. 

  Fixed ropes along khola cliff for porters and made a camp after this section but then 10 porters left in snowstorm that lasted 3 days and other porters also wanted to go back. So decided best to give up: way very difficult for porters but OK for Sherpas, but need more Sherpas and more time. Perhaps a boat to cross river. 

  4 or 5 on return climbed Dudh Kundari via E Ridge to sharp S crest. Put a high camp between BC and summit - 1300m to sharp high camp at 4700m to summit by 4 members on 17th Oct (BC near Jagdula Khola).


expid: KAG190301
peakid: KAG1
year: 1990
route1: N Face
nation: UK
leaders: Glenn Rowley
sponsor: British Kagmara Expedition
bcdate: 1990-11-09
smtdate: 1990-11-12
termdate: 1990-11-13
termnote: Abandoned at 5500m due to dangerous snow conditions
othersmts: Kagmara Ri (a hill above Kagmara La)
campsites: BC(09/11,4600m),xxx(12/11,5500m)
accidents: None
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  BC just below Kagmara La on its west side
  High point at N Face.

  10th Nov recce day from top of Kagmara Ri (5370m) on opposite side of Kagmara La on N and had magnificent view of N Face of Kagmara I and hidden valley below the face; decided to approach valley from between Kagmara La and mountain. 11th climbed to top of icefall at 5300m, climbed into valley; was waist deep snow. 12th reached N Face and tested snow which was unconsolidated and too dangerous. Made no biv or camp above BC; snow which was left by heavy snowfall in early Oct which stayed in cold weather.


expid: NILN90301
peakid: NILN
year: 1990
route1: (Small ridge on) SE Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kang Han-Chul
sponsor: 1990 Korean Sambaidulgi Alpine Club Nilgiri N Expedition
ascent1: 6th,7th
approach: Kali Gandaki
bcdate: 1990-08-17
smtdate: 1990-09-07
smttime: 1200
termdate: 1990-09-11
campsites: BC(17/08,3800m),ABC(21/08,4300m),C1(26/08,5200m),C2(01/09,5800m),C3(06/09,6500m),Smt(07-08/09)
accidents: Minor injuries from falling stones; 1 summiter fell 100m
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  BC at North Annapurna Glacier SE of mountain.

  BC lower than planned. Put here because from this place could see entire route. Route above C3 was on back side of photo on SE Face behind small ridge. Between ABC to C1 falling stone and snow avalanches. C1 to C2 very hard technical climb. C2 to C3 difficult 200m rock then knife ridge but above that not so difficult.

  1st summit team left C3 8:00 am and on top 12:00 noon and descended to C2. 2nd team 2 hrs C3 to top. Used 1600m fixed rope total (from 4900m to C3). Much snowfall and avalanching but climbed quickly because of low food supplies. Left BC 11th Sept.


expid: KAND90301
peakid: KAND
year: 1990
route1: Patrasi from S Ridge (NW Ridge)
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Patrick Marendaz
sponsor: Swiss to Patrasi
countries: France
approach: Chaudhabise Khola from Jumla (4 days->BC)
bcdate: 1990-10-30
smtdate: 1990-11-05
termdate: 1990-11-10
termnote: Abandoned at 5600m due to dangerous conditions
othersmts: Attempted several Patrasi Himal peaks
campsites: BC(30/10,4000m),C1(04/11,5200m),xxx(05/11,5600m)
accidents: None
routememo:
  BC at half-hour east of Khola in valley
  C1 west of Kande Hiunchuli
  C2 southwest of Patrasi peaks
  High point at Patrasi peak.

  Tried to go to Kande Hiunchuli up its NW Ridge. All men members climbed NW Ridge 5600m. Could see there was much dangerous fall of ice (seracs) on entire steep horseshoe shaped face on W slopes of Patrasi peaks; made biv at 5200m 4th Nov; on 5th Nov to small summit (for recce of route to Kande Hiunchuli or to complete climb). Saw rock ridge of Kande Hiunchuli bad rock and very long across point 19,530 ft returned to camp/biv and back to BC. 

  Next tried peaks S of Kande Hiunchuli and made camp to 5100m 8th Nov on SW Ridge of point 19,600 ft. On 9th Nov reached point 19,600 ft and along its N Ridge to another peak not on map just N of point 19,600 ft which was 6000m high altimeters; same day retreated to Pt 19,600 ft and down on easier ridge leading SE from point 19,600 ft and thence NW to camp at 5100m and 10th Nov returned to BC; one member half-way to point 19,600 ft and other 2 members to summits on 9th Nov. 

  11th Nov left BC and trekked north via Chaudhabise Khola; women members went to smaller peaks around BC area. 

  Could have reached Kande Hiunchuli summit via all the south ridge peaks but long way and this team now did not have enough time; would have needed 1 or 2 camps more.


expid: DHA190305
peakid: DHA1
year: 1990
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Junko Tabei
sponsor: Japanese Women's Climbing Club (Jyoshi Tohan) Dhaulagiri I Expedition
ascent1: 45th
bcdate: 1990-09-14
smtdate: 1990-10-09
smttime: 1305
campsites: BC(14/09,4650m),Dep(22/09,5750m),C1(22/09,5750m),C2(06/10,6400m),C3(08/10,7300m),Smt(09/10)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at normal site (4 expeditions there together)
  C1 at NE Col
  C2 on NE Ridge
  C3 on NE ridge.

  Summit party left C3 at 4 am and on top 1:05 pm; weather clear and snow conditions very good, but "little strong wind." Route "not difficult but very long way." 

  1st expedition to arrive fixed the ropes, but Japanese added 1500m to make easier, diversions around snow bridges.

accidents:
  Kimura slightly frostbitten toes, fingers, nose and cheeks; Miyaska constant cough that left her weak


expid: DHA190307
peakid: DHA1
year: 1990
route1: NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Carlos Buhler
sponsor: 1990 International Dhaulagiri Expadition
ascent1: 46th,47th
countries: USSR
approach: French Pass->Dhampus Pass
bcdate: 1990-09-27
smtdate: 1990-10-19
smttime: 1430
termdate: 1990-11-04
campsites: BC(27/09,4580m),C1(05/10,5600m),C2(17/10,6400m),C3(18/10,7280m),Smt(19,31/10)
accidents: Serious frostbite by Buhler and Nuru (should heal); Dainius Makauska disappeared
agency: Nepal Himal
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at NE Col
  C2 on NE Ridge
  C3 slightly below most expeditions C4 on NE Ridge.

  Buhler and Dainius got to BC (3 days ahead of Lowe) and both went out onto glacier 29th and Buhler immediately got acute bronchitis with high fever and Dainis fell in to crevasse and wrenched knee (tore ligaments) and both out of action. Dainius decided to stay on at BC without climbing at all. Lowe and Nuru went to look at E Face from NE Col and put tent at 6400m; decided E Face not on autumn route because of avalanche danger in autumn. Buhler now really sick and left BC to Marpha on 9th Oct escorted by Lowe and Nuru almost to Marpha; Buhler on to Jomsom and Muktinath with expedition cook while others returned to BC on 10th and rested at BC 11th and 12th. 13th Lowe and Nuru up to C1 and were stuck there by 3-day snowstorm with wind; up to C2 on 17th Lowe made C3 on 18th while Nuru down to BC; Lowe left C3 at 7:00 am on 19th entirely alone, cut across N Face and back to ridge to top 2:30 pm. Afternoon snowstorm blew up and had difficulty finding way down and reached C3 at 9:00 pm (had forgotton to take his head lamp and was no moonlight; was "very concerned" about his situation). 20th down with his small high-altitude tent and in another afternoon snowstorm pitched tent at 6000m, in morning of 21st reached BC, with slight frostbite. left BC 22nd or 23rd.

  Buhler returned to BC 18th Oct to find Dainius had been hiking around and eager to climb. 19th Buhler rested at BC and 20th Buhler and Dainius with Nuru started climbing and reached C1; 21st rested, 22nd up to C2 and back to C1 to sleep; 23rd rested at C1; 24th moved to C2; 25th up ridge 1000 ft to 6750m and down to BC (a test of Dainius' knee and Buhler's health). 26th and 27th rested at BC. Dainius was slower in climbing than Buhler and went his own pace but knee OK. Now "weather extremely cold" and obvious now it impossible to keep toes from freezing (water froze at BC) but nontheless up again. 28th all 3 to C1; 29th to C2; 30th to C3 and on 31st to summit. Buhler left C3 at 4:30 am (in 1st 4 hrs frostbitten toes); other 2 at 4:15 am and all climbed together, reached other's C4 on 1st hour and on via Lowe's route to summit; on top at 3:15 pm together; perfect weather with only slight freezing and clear skies; only few minutes on top after Buhler photographed Dainius with Lithunian flag; "it was a hard day" and down with tricky climbing high on mountain down long serated summit ridge an 7 little gendarmes to be gotten around; "took all my concentration" to manage this section "putting my feet right" so as not to fall, which is easy to do. Buhler led descent, very tired and hungry and concentrating hard, feet frozen and Nuru hypothermic and feared he would die; Buhler feared if they stopped, Nuru would loose his balance so in good moonlight and slight wind kept moving, leaving Dainius behind at his own pace; Dainius last seen at 8000m at 5 pm. Buhler and Nuru reached C3 at 8:30 pm with frostbitten feet ("I'm sure Dainius was terribly frostbitten"). Dainius never turned up; Buhler and Nuru totally exhausted and feet frozen but waited till 11:00 am for Dainius and then decided if feet thawed more would be unable to get down and set off at 1 pm and down to C2. 2nd Nov to BC. No sign of Dainius but left tents and food, etc for him. Buhler and Nuru left BC 4th by helicopter; no idea what happened to him.

  * Nuru to summit of Cho Oyu with Komarkova.


expid: DHAM90301
peakid: DHAM
year: 1990
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Patrick Monzat
sponsor: Yak & Yeti Chamonix Expedition to Dhampus
ascent1: 8th,9th official
approach: Manang->Thorung Pass->Kali Gandaki->Tukuche Village
bcdate: 1990-10-28
smtdate: 1990-10-29
smttime: 1200
campsites: BC(28/10,5200m),Smt(29-30/10)
accidents: None except altitude sickness of Blary and Chombart (headaches)
agency: Discover Nepal
routememo:
  BC just below and east of Dhampus Pass.

  29th Oct all members started for top from BC at 6:00 am and after 1-1/2 hours Blary and Chambart had headaches and turned back at about 5400m and back to BC accompanied by Dequeker while all others to summit at 12:00 noon. Went along ridge almost its entire length, starting almost at pass; about 1 hr on top with no wind or clouds. Route and top entirely rock and no rope needed to be fixed; returned to BC 2:30 pm and on to lower camp 4500m yak pasture same day. Monzat and Dequeker stayed 2nd night at BC and 30th both to summit at 10:00 am, BC 12:00 noon and on down to Tukuche village with all members same day at 7:00 pm.

  "Just a walk" up - not at all difficult technically.


expid: DHA190302
peakid: DHA1
year: 1990
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Manuel Gonzalez Diaz
sponsor: Andalusia Expedition to Dhaulagiri
ascent1: 43rd w/Swz
countries: Argentina
bcdate: 1990-09-01
smtdate: 1990-10-05
smttime: 1330
campsites: BC(01/09,4600m),C1(06/09,5000m),C2(11/09,5600m),C3(15/09,6350m),C4(30/09,7350m),Smt(05/10)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Trans Himalayan Trekking (THT)
routememo:
  C2 a little below NE Col
  C3 on NE Ridge
  C4 on NE Ridge.

  From C4 on 5th Oct at 6:30 am to summit, which reached 1:30 pm in weather clear and cold and little wind; not so difficult technically except below C1 where many crevasses. Ridge averages 45 degrees and fixed 500m rope on ridge and Swiss put another 500m on ridge and other teams more in crevasse section. Other 3 members not to summit because not in good health. 5th Oct bid was 2nd one; 1st bid all 5 members and sirdar C4 1-2 Oct, but wind too strong and descended. 5th Oct summiters rested 1 day in C3 and up again.


expid: DHA190304
peakid: DHA1
year: 1990
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Greece
leaders: Ioannis Katrivanos
sponsor: Athens Alpine Club Hellenic Expedition to Dhaulagiri I
bcdate: 1990-09-13
smtdate: 1990-10-13
termdate: 1990-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to poor health and Sherpa's disaffection
campsites: BC(13/09,4600m),C1(17/09,4950m),C2(23/09,5600m),C3(30/09,6350m),C4(11/10,7450m),xxx(13/10,7600m)
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C2 at NE Col
  C3 at start of steep section of NE Ridge
  C4 at beginning of summit rocks (end of snow ridge).

  12th Oct rested in C4, 13th started for summit and reached 7600m and gave up: Vroutsis with frostbitten fingers and toes (2nd degree) and Lambris coughing and feared pulmonary edema. Down to C3 in early afternoon, just as big 3-day snowstorm began and impossible to move for 3 nights and 2 days (other team's climbers bogged down too). 16th Oct all down and 17th all in BC. Now all members not feeling well and little help from "Sherpas." Sirdar announced he had finished climbing 10th Oct (wanted more money?) and other 2 "Sherpas" also gave up climb and said weather getting worse and time to go home; "it was a mistake." Doctor strong but had to accompany frostbite cases to Kathmandu. Entire team left BC 24th Oct.

accidents:
  Brokos frostbitten toes in C3 but not serious; Vroutsis frostbitten toes and fingers which probably will heal


expid: DHA190301
peakid: DHA1
year: 1990
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Jose Javier Quinones Querencia
sponsor: Spanish Madrid Dhaulagiri I 1990
bcdate: 1990-08-29
smtdate: 1990-09-29
termdate: 1990-10-03
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to exhaustion, bad weather (snowfall)
campsites: BC(29/08,4600m),C1(03/09,4900m),C2(07/09,5650m),C3(18/09,6370m),C4(29/09,7400m),xxx(29/09,7400m)
accidents: None
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  BC at normal site (1st to arrive this season)
  C2 near NE Col
  C3 on NE Ridge
  C4 above NE Spur
  High point at C4.

  Moved C1 because original site too low. C4 reached on 29th and 30th by 2 members but team very tired because no Sherpas helping them and they were first climbers making route to Col; again to spur with other Spaniards. Japanese, Swiss did some lead climbing, but Swiss also were bankers and sold route to Italian-Czech and Greek teams. "This mountain is for climbing, not for making money - this is not mountaineering." 13th Sept 3 members carried 100m down avalanche but injured (were hit at 6400m).


expid: TUKU90301
peakid: TUKU
year: 1990
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Greece
leaders: Eleni Stamatakis
sponsor: Greek Expedition to Tukuche
ascent1: 14th
bcdate: 1990-10-19
smtdate: 1990-10-24
smttime: 1400
campsites: BC(19/10,5000m),C1(22/10,6000m),C2(23/10,6600m),Smt(24/10)
accidents: None
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC at SW of point 5182m on Dhaulagiri map
  C1 on NW Ridge
  C2 on NW Ridge.

  24th Oct 3 summiters left C2 at 6:00 am and reached top at 2 pm; very deep (waist deep) snow, avalanching and crevasses so must slowly probing for crevasses. Last part to top 70 degrees. Very strong cold wind (-35 at summit). Climbed without full acclimatization because wanted to finish quickly before weather became worse. Very tired during 24th Oct ascent but never thought of turning back ("she is very obstinate"). Kept good appetite. Sherpas very important to her success; without them, not successful.

  Leader of Greeks to Cho Oyu in Spring 1991 said there is grave doubt in Greece of her claim of success and she has been expelled from Greek Alpine Club.


expid: DHA190306
peakid: DHA1
year: 1990
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Francesco Santon
sponsor: Dhaulagiri I 1990 International Mountaineering Expedition
ascent1: 44th
countries: Argentina, Czechoslovakia
bcdate: 1990-09-17
smtdate: 1990-10-06
smttime: 1300
campsites: BC(17/09,4600m),C1(21/09,5100m),C2(22/09,5600m),C3(24/09,6350m),C4(05/10,7400m),Smt(06/10)
accidents: None
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  C2 at NE Col
  C3 on NE Ridge.

  From C4 summit party on 6th Oct moved directly to top, not indirectly via ridge to its top as many teams do. 

  2nd summit party on 8th Oct (Mon and Visentin) and reached top of ridge at 8100m and turned back by wind. 

  Novak and others in C4 on 9th Oct, but not to top because of wind (Japanese got frostbite that day, 9 Oct). 

  On 12th Oct new deep snow and avalanching that day.

  East Face not attempted: dangerous avalanching after new snowfall.


expid: DHA190303
peakid: DHA1
year: 1990
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Karl Kobler
sponsor: Swiss Dhaulagiri Expedition
ascent1: 42nd,43rd
countries: Liechtenstein
bcdate: 1990-09-10
smtdate: 1990-09-30
campsites: BC(10/09,4700m),C1(14/09,5600m),C2(16/09,6400m),C3(29/09,7400m),Smt(30/09,05/10)
accidents: Dubach and Hirt slight altitude sickness above 7100m and 7400m
agency: Dhaulagiri Trek House
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 near NE Col
  C2 on NE Ridge
  C3 on a subsidiary ridge to left of main ridge.

  Easy climb from C2 to C3; fixed rope because were some small avalanches. Shared rope-fixing job on mountain with other teams.


expid: ANN190301
peakid: ANN1
year: 1990
route1: S Face (Bonington rte)
nation: S Korea
leaders: Chun Doo-Sung
sponsor: 1990 Korea Ascent Annapurna I Expedition
bcdate: 1990-08-19
smtdate: 1990-09-28
termdate: 1990-10-16
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to dangerous conditions and exhaustion
campsites: BC(19/08,4300m),C1(21/08,5100m),C2(25/08,5500m),C3(31/08,6100m),xxx(28/09,6700m)
agency: Adventure Nepal
routememo:
  BC at Annapurna Sanctuary
  High point at couloir in variation of Bonington route.

  Much soft snow and snow avalanches daily twice in C2 and C3 areas and more frequent rock falls after 9-10 am but climbed mostly in day time. Early one morning tried couloir to left of Bonington route but each of 4 times minor accident. 3 members fell 50-100m in snow avalanche, lost much equipment (1 km fixed rope and depot of other equipment carried away on 2nd Oct). 11-25 Sept snowfall every day after 10 am. Tried Bonington route ice ridge first but soft snow so went left to couloir where avalanches, so again to Bonington ridge but now members very tired. On ridge route reached 450m on Oct 11th. 8 members only above C1. Sherpas only to C3 ("I don't want to die" from danger above C3). 18th Sept ice hit 1 member's plastic helmet and made big hole. Snow avalanche took away 2 tents a C2 on 2 Oct when it was unoccupied.

  Want to come again to same route but arrive in Sept for climbing in October.

accidents:
  4 members fell but returned to climb; 1 member and 1 Sherpa hit by rock ice, avalanche (one Sherpa left team)


expid: ANN190302
peakid: ANN1
year: 1990
route1: N Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Javier Bermejo Garde
sponsor: Navarra Expedition Annapurna 1990
bcdate: 1990-09-13
smtdate: 1990-09-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to insufficient rope
campsites: BC(13/09,4200m),C1(17/09,5100m),C2(19/09,5600m),xxx(21/09,03/10,6400m)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C2 on glacial plateau below serac face
  High point at serac face.

  C3 planned for 6500m but not possible to reach that site. Climbed to 6400m in face of seracs twice. 21 Sept fixed 400m rope to this spot and slept in C2; during that night falling seracs took away rope, pitons, etc. Plateau where C2 pitched received one or two avalanches daily. 22 Sept down to BC. 6 days in BC during bad weather with some snow. 30th Sept good weather and up to C1 by 2 members. 1 Oct up to C2; 2 Oct stayed in C2; 3 Oct again climbed serac face to 6400m saw impossible to go farther: needed 700m fixed rope but didn't have it. Very steep and difficult big seracs. 

  "Very nice mountain but very dangerous."


expid: ANN390301
peakid: ANN3
year: 1990
route1: N Face-E Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Song Pyo-Myung
sponsor: 1990 Korea Hanorum Alpine Club Annapurna III Expedition
ascent1: 9th
approach: Marshyangdi->Manang
bcdate: 1990-09-16
smtdate: 1990-10-05
smttime: 1318
campsites: BC(16/09,4500m),C1(24/09,5400m),C2(28/09,6150m),C3(01/10,6450m),Smt(05/10)
accidents: None
achievment: 1st Korean ascent
agency: Sallyan
routememo:
  BC below point 5076m on KMTN map
  C1 just above point 5076m
  C2 at snowfield northwest of point 6743m
  C3 between crevasses southwest of point 6743m.

  1500m rope fixed from BC in very difficult rock climb avoiding icefall and seracs. Many crevasses below C3 and around it. Above C3 very steep ice face to summit ridge (East Ridge). By 11 am had climbed only 1/3 of way to top and leader ordered them to return because they would be too late on summit. Rope to 6700m had already been fixed in previous 2 days but now making more direct route to summit and face too steep to place a camp. 

  5th Oct 2nd summit bid began from C3 at midnight. 11:30 am reached East Ridge at 7360m-7370m, summit at 13:18, 14:00 began descent in clear but windy weather and back in C3 18:30. Kim and some Sherpas had made first summit bid also.

  Route may be same as Swiss 1980 Autumn.


expid: GANG90301
peakid: GANG
year: 1990
route1: N Face
nation: France
leaders: Pierre Neyret
sponsor: Gangapurna 1990
bcdate: 1990-09-30
smtdate: 1990-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 6440m due to lack of strength of team
campsites: BC(30/09,4850m),C1(05/10,5400m),xxx(22/10,6440m)
accidents: None except Deslandres sick
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  BC south of Khangsar just below east of rock 
  C1 at bottom of spurs running west from NE Ridge.

  Avalanche danger from Tarke Kang (1 big one came down), so pitched C1 well to east of it. After 5th Oct put 200m rope up face of N Ridge, then to BC. Deslandres got sick and went to Manang aid post with J Neyret, leaving only 2 climbers. J Neyret returned after 3 days and up to C1 (all 3 climbers) and up onto face to fix more rope and reached 6000m. Then 1 day snowfall. Stayed 1 day in C1 while 30 cm snow fell. Next day 14th Oct to BC to wait out avalanches, 1 day in BC. Deslandres now returned from Manang but not very strong. 17th Oct 4 climbers again to C1. 18th fixed rope to 6100m, 19th rested in C1, 20th fixed rope to 6400m, 21st Deslandres to BC and others rested in C1. 22nd Beatrix and P Neyret left C1 for top but at end of fixed rope P Neyret too tired and cold so he stopped. Beatrix wanted to go on up alone but bag of food fixed on face now fell down face when handled so he down also to C1. Now Beatrix only climber willing to continue but now not interested in solo attempt from C1 (had no Himalayan experience). With no Sherpas and only small team of members were now tired. Face snow and ice 50-60 steepness and difficult.


expid: DORJ90301
peakid: DORJ
year: 1990
route1: W Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Rolf Haas
sponsor: Basilik Expedition to Dorje Lhakpa
countries: Austria
bcdate: 1990-10-20
smtdate: 1990-10-28
termdate: 1990-10-29
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to route too difficult without fixed ropes
campsites: BC(20/10,4100m),ABC(24/10,4600m),C1(26/10,5500m),xxx(28/10,5800m)
accidents: Sirdar returned to KTM for intestinal surgery
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC  on grass southwest of mountain
  Low ABC on grass between moraine on edge of holy lake
  C1  at beginning of snow ridge
  High point at West Ridge.

  Ridge was mixed snow and ice. Nepalis did not go above ABC because Sirdar was sick and descended; others not climbers. Heavy snowfall took much time to reach low BC and to make route higher; ridge is very steep, thus needed a lot of fixed ropes and no time to fix them. 3 who reached high point could have gone higher without fixed ropes but others could not have gone in support and this too risky - "main problem was time."


expid: NUMB90301
peakid: NUMB
year: 1990
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Isao Fukushima
sponsor: Okutama Sangaku-kai Nepal Himal Expedition 1990 to Numbur
ascent1: 8th,9th
bcdate: 1990-09-29
smtdate: 1990-10-18
smttime: 1045
campsites: BC(29/09,4600m),C1(04/10,5300m),C2(09/10,5800m),C3(12/10,6300m),Smt(18-19/10)
accidents: None
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at west side of Dudh Kund Glacier near lake at Yuligolcia
  C1 at northwest end of glacier
  C2 on SW Ridge
  C3 on SW Ridge.

  13 Oct to BC for rest. 15 Oct up again by Masuda, Saitoh, Pasang Sherpa and Gyalzen Sherpa to C1, 16 Oct to C2, 17th to C3 and 18 Oct to summit at 10:45 am (left C3 6:00 am) and returned to C2 while Chiba and Minegishi to C3 for their own summit success on 19th (left C3 also at 6:00 am and on top 9:15 am) and down to C1 same day. Route not difficult technically but fixed 2500m rope for safety and speed. 

  Sugimo left early to return to work.


expid: MANA90301
peakid: MANA
year: 1990
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Juan Fernando Azcona
sponsor: Manaslu 1990 Super BH
bcdate: 1990-09-12
smtdate: 1990-10-01
termdate: 1990-10-06
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to heavy snowfall and avalanches
campsites: BC(12/09,4650m),C1(14/09,5150m),C2(18/09,5660m),C3(01/10,6400m),xxx(01/10,6400m)
accidents: None
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  C3 above North Col on NW Face of North Peak
  High point at C3.

  We spent 2 nights in C3 with many avalanches and 3 Oct we go to BC and climb finished. Left BC 6 Oct. Followed normal route and camps at normal sites except C3 which was above big serac and therefore little above normal site. Many avalanches much deep snow with daily snow fall. Fixed only 150m rope in different places.


expid: MANA90302
peakid: MANA
year: 1990
route1: SE Face
nation: USSR
leaders: Kazbek Valiev
sponsor: Manaslu 1990
approach: Buri Gandaki
bcdate: 1990-09-26
smtdate: 1990-10-07
termdate: 1990-10-09
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to fatal fall
accidents: Fatal fall; no altitude sickness, all members had scaled 7000m peaks elsewhere
agency: Everest Trekking
campsites:
  BC(26/09,4300m),Biv1(01/10,4800-5000m),Biv2(02/10,5600m),Biv3(03/10,6000m),Biv4(04/10,6450m),Biv5(05/10,6800m),Biv6(06/10,7000m),xxx(07/10,7200m)

routememo:
  BC   near gompa at Pungen Glacier
  Biv1 at deposit
  Biv2 near bergschrund
  Biv3 at bottom of rock face
  Biv4 at snow ridge
  Biv5 in last section of small ridge
  Biv6 on glacier.

  On 28th Sept made deposit on Pungen Glacier at 4800m or 5000m (had no altimeter and only Manaslu trekking map); only left equipment here. 2 days at BC. 1st Oct went to deposit, slept there and took equipment from it and went up "all 7 climbing members together and remained together." Above 6th biv wanted to climb not a ridge but corner of SE Face-E Face. 3 members climbed part of this rock and reached 7200m from where they fell to death near site of 6th biv. Climb immediately abandoned. 3 bodies buried in crevasse. 8th Oct 4 survivors to BC. Route "not so difficult" first part of face to night of dangerous because many ice avalanches. Had good weather and warm-hot sun from 6:00 am. 3-4 more days to surmount rest of face. "It's a real route." 

  Found black rope (Yugo or Czech expedition's?) just above 3rd biv. This only trace of other climbers.


expid: LANR90301
peakid: LANR
year: 1990
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Peter Konzert
sponsor: Tirolean Langtang Ri Expedition
bcdate: 1990-10-11
smtdate: 1990-10-20
termdate: 1990-10-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to stormy winds
campsites: BC(11/10,5000m),C1(16/10,5400m),C2(17/10,5600m),C3(18/10,5700m),C4(19/10,6200m),xxx(20/10,6700m)
accidents: None except LO's death and slight general illness of Koechler
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC same Korean's southeast of Tilman's Col.

  14th heavy snow fall and very windy (from northwest). Started up on 16th from BC and made 1st biv on glacier below Tilman's Col at 5400m. Now trouble with Sherpas who had not brought gear to Col - and reached 5600m on 17th and on 18th at Col. On 19th reached their "hidden" mountain itself and began climbing slope which got steeper in due course becoming SW Ridge; made camp at 6200m (by all 3 climbing members) but northwest winds stormed so fiercely that decided to descend to camp at 6200m camp. Whole night and next day storm continued, so abandoned attempt. Northwest winds from Tibet blast Langtang Ri, which is unprotected.

  Had problems reaching BC over glacier and deposited goods 6 hours before BC.

  LO died on 18 Oct - was sick and helicopter requested. Tourists actually came in and he ran to the helicopter at Kyanju and collapsed at 3750m. Never was at BC, died of heart attack? Climbers learned of his death on 23 Oct from villagers. Liaison officer's name was Gopal Bahadur KC.

  French Langtang Lirung's LO was told expedition Langtang Ri's LO had intense stomach and pain in kidney area: Langtang Lirung's Ms Mathiew, 7 Nov 1990.


expid: CHEO90301
peakid: CHEO
year: 1990
route1: SE Ridge-S Face
nation: UK
leaders: Alan Burgess
sponsor: British Cheo Himal Expedition
approach: From Tanbuche (SW of Mtn)
bcdate: 1990-10-22
smtdate: 1990-10-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6250m due to Sherpa's death
campsites: BC(22/10,5000m),C1(28/10,5600m),xxx(30/10,6250m)
agency: Highland Sherpa
routememo:
  BC on west side of Larkya La (1 hour walk from pass)
  C1 directly above (due north of) Larkya La
  High point on SE Ridge.

  First tried to get into S Face directly but found huge icefall a big as Khumbu Icefall and very active (icefall should have been crossed going to face directly at 19,500 ft, but make no attempt to do so). 28th Oct decided to get to S Face via SE Ridge, which leads onto S Face and made C1 on 28th; 29th Burgess and Dawa Wangchu (Kharte near Kharikhola) went on recce to see if feasible to SE Ridge and decided it was and back to C1. 30th set out for ridge (and summit if possible, but this a "long shot"). Burgess, Golden, Whiteley, Nobles and Dawa Wangchu left C1 at 4:00 am; Nobles turned back after an hour (trouble with crampons and not entirely well) while other 4 continued. At 11:00 am were about 200 ft below SE Ridge and here Whiteley and Golden 300 ft behind Burgess and Dawa Wangchu. Dawa Wangchu was now leading and put in ice stake and Burgess climbed up to him and from there Dawa was to go on up and put in ice stake that would be better anchored. Dawa anchored rope and came down his fixed line and tied on another rope to fixed rope but became disconnected from fixed rope (probably rope broke after he had untied a knot Burgess had put there to tie off a flaw in the rope). Dawa fell 800 vertical feet (1000 ft in distance) but was still alive having ended at bottom of a section of very dangerous ice cliffs landing in deep snow. Burgess reached him in 30 minutes: he had massive head injuries (fractured skull) and bleeding from skull profusely and coughing blood. Burgess stayed with him 3 hrs, got him standing, could see but couldn't speak; tried to pull him down steep snow slope and got him down 60 ft and then Dawa disconnected his harness and took off gloves and turned away from Burgess and lay down signaling Burgess to go. Burgess left him. Now ice and ice cliffs will soon take him all the way down (he probably would have died in next half hour).

  Now did not consider any more climbing.

  Don't know whether SE Ridge would "go" - couldn't see how steep its sides are.


expid: LANG90301
peakid: LANG
year: 1990
route1: SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Serge Bazin
sponsor: French Expedition to Langtang Lirung
bcdate: 1990-10-09
smtdate: 1990-10-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to lack of rope and time
othersmts: Tseogo Ri
campsites: BC(09/10,4300m),ABC(10/10,4800m),C1(21/10,5600m),C2(29/10,6100m),xxx(29/10,6100m)
accidents: 1 member sprained knee
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at Tsangbu yak hut at SW end of Langtang Glacier
  ABC further up glacier moraine at start of snow
  C1  on SE Ridge (space only for 1 small tent for 2 people)
  C2  on SE Ridge (at end of difficult rock part)
  High point at C2.

  Took time to fix ropes in gully to SE Ridge for C1 and also was snowfall and members had stomach trouble. In some parts of gully 1 meter snow (at BC about 30 cm snow). Beginning of difficulties began just above ABC at 5000m; had not realized before that couloir in so steep (55 degrees, not 45 degrees) and required fixed rope for descent. Thus ran out of rope for fixing above C2. In any case ran out of this; fixed about 1000m of rope (some from France, some bought in Langtang and rest old ropes on mountain). Were too slow in couloir and above in difficult rock and ice. Need one week more and perhaps 1-2 more members (technically difficult for Sherpas).

  Ridge itself is safe but BC and ABC exposed to avalanches from couloir. After snowfall there was lot of snow moving down couloir but no big avalanches.


expid: AMAD90302
peakid: AMAD
year: 1990
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Nicholas Harper, Kevin Wilson
sponsor: British Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 76th,77th (w/Italy)
bcdate: 1990-09-22
smtdate: 1990-10-24
smttime: 1100
campsites: BC(22/09,4600m),C1(29/09,5800m),C205/10,6000m),C3(22/10,6300m),Smt(24-25/10)
agency: Chomalhari Trekking
routememo:
  Was very cold wind and several members had frostnipped nose and fingers. Above C2 dangerous and difficult to climb in a lot of fresh powdered snow on camp. 5th to 22nd Oct snow conditions were impossible. Winds a problem in last week of climb. Not a problem really with others on route, but not right to give so many permits at price HMG charges.


expid: AMAD90305
peakid: AMAD
year: 1990
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Christian Hug
sponsor: Swiss to Ama Dablam
ascent1: 75th (w/Ger)
bcdate: 1990-10-14
smtdate: 1990-10-23
campsites: BC(14/10,4700m),C1(17/10,5800m),C2(22/10,6030m),Smt(23/10)
accidents: None
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  Was snowing where arrived at mountain and snow coming down W Face so made no attempt on face. C1 tent left at site when down but in final push, took tent (had only one tent) and took it to C2. 18th Oct to BC to rest and up on 21st taking tent from C1 to C2; summit next day.

  No problems with other teams; British were very kind and let Swiss use their fixed ropes; on 22nd climbed to top with one German expedition member.


expid: AMAD90304
peakid: AMAD
year: 1990
route1: S Face
route2: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Rainer Bolesch
sponsor: German Ama Dablam Expedition 1990
ascent2: 75th,76th,79th
bcdate: 1990-10-07
smtdate: 1990-10-22
smttime: 1230
termdate: 1990-10-28
campsites: BC(07/10,5050m),Biv1(12/10,5800m),Biv2(15/10,6000m),C3(18/10,6400m),Smt(22-23,27/10)
accidents: Peter Bolesch had fleas
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 2 hours above other's BC  - at foot of SW Ridge
  Biv 1 at British C1
  Biv 2 at British C2.

  Had no fixed camps. First, went to S Face from BC to lake due south of face and made depot, while 2 Boleschs climbed to 5700m on face, fixing 300m of rope till noon; now warmth of sun destroyed snow's crust and big danger of avalanches of ice and some rocks. Big ice chunk hit Rainer on arm; all the time small avalanches. Went down to morriane and discussed situation and decided face too dangerous and were too slow climbing to accomplish climb during night time; 60-70 degrees hard rock climbing above and "looks very good" route. Rainer and wife went to British on SW Ridge and asked if could join them and they agreed.

  All 4 members returned to BC same day. 2 days rest at BC, then took equipment to C1. Peter got sick (flu) and went down to Pangboche. On 15th Oct other 3 members up to British C2 and Rainer worked hard with Harper to fix mushroom ridge which his wife ferried loads from C1. 18th Rainer and others 2 down to BC, where Peter was now, in stormy weather. 21st all moved up again, Peter to C1 and other three to C2. 22nd Peter to C3 (in slightly different site from British) while other three went for summit. Rainer to summit (last 250m steep rock) while other 2 waited for him below and then all 3 descended. 

  Peter remained in C3 but they on down to C1 and one day (22nd). 23rd they to BC while Harper and Jeff and Peter Bolesch up; Peter started at 8:30 am (one hour after 2 British) passed Jeff (who turned back) and reached summit at same time as Harper.

  Detail of Summit

  22 Oct 1990: Mr Rainer Bolesch (leader - German) started from C2 at 6 am and reached the summit at 12:30 pm; stayed on the summit for 10 minutes, took photographs only and later descended to C1 and stayed overnight.

  Note: Mr Rainer Bolesch had accompanied with his wife Eva Maria Bolesch and Joerg Zengerle from C2 towards the summit on 22 Oct but only Rainer Bolesch had managed to reach the summit and the other two members had waited 250m below the summit for Mr Rainer and later three of them came together to C1 and stayed overnight.

  23 Oct 1990 - Mr Peter Bolesch started from C3 at 8:30 am and reached the summit at 11 am, stayed on the summit for 1/2 hour and took photographs and later descended to BC which he finally reached at 5 pm.

  26 Oct 1990 - Once again Rainer Bolesch along with his wife Eva Maria Bolesch (German Nurse) and the other climber Joerg Zengerle started from C2 at 6 am and three of them managed to reach the summit at 12:30 pm stayed on the summit for 1/2 hour, took photographs only and later descended to C2 which they reached at 2:30 pm.

  Note: this was the second time summit for Mr Rainer Bolesch (leader).

  27 Oct 1990 - Three members which had stayed on C2 overnight, reached the BC.

  28 Oct 1990 - left BC.

  01 Nov 1990 - Mr Peter Bolesch and Joerg Zengerle arrive Lukla/KTM.


expid: AMAD90303
peakid: AMAD
year: 1990
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Herbert Mayerhofer
sponsor: Apple Pie Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 1990-10-01
smtdate: 1990-10-11
termdate: 1990-10-12
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to snow conditions, lack of time
campsites: BC(01/10,4600m),C1(03/10,5800m),C2(07/10,6000m),xxx(11/10,6200m)
accidents: None
agency: Lamjung
routememo:
  BC at Mingbo
  High point at beginning of great tower.

  High point reached at beginning of great tower was too much snow; half meter snow on normally snow-free rock. It was too dangerous and had to leave on 15th Oct. It would take at least 10 days more to have successful climb to mushrooms and early section. Down to BC on 11th Oct cleaning camps in descent.

   3rd Oct - placed C1 but did not occupy it
   6th Oct - occupied C1
   7th Oct - took C1 to 6000m where set it up as C2
   8th Oct - to BC 
  10th Oct - to C2
  11th Oct - to 6200m and then abandoned attempt
  12th Oct - left BC


expid: AMAD90301
peakid: AMAD
year: 1990
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Alberto Re
sponsor: Orizzonte Montsagne to Ama Dablam
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 1990-09-19
smtdate: 1990-10-04
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to bad snow conditions, lack of time
campsites: BC(19/09,4600m),C1(21/09,5400m),C2(23/09,5800m),C3(27/09,6000m),xxx(04/10,6100m)
accidents: None
agency: Trekking International
routememo:
  BC above Mingbo
  C2 on SW Ridge (normal site)
  C3 at Yellow Tower.

  Stopped at 6100m because of danger of snow and was still warm weather; had no time to wait for drop in temperature. 10 members and both climbing Sherpas reached C3.


expid: AMAD90307
peakid: AMAD
year: 1990
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Nicholas Yardley
sponsor: 1990 Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Australia, UK
bcdate: 1990-10-30
smtdate: 1990-11-12
termdate: 1990-11-13
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to lateness for safe descent
campsites: BC(30/10,4570m),C1(07/11,5800m),xxx(12/11,6600m)
agency: Trekking & Expedition Services (TES)
routememo:
  BC above Mingbo (usual site)
  C1 on SW Ridge
  High point at SW Ridge.

  C1 was only fixed camp, rest of climb no tents left anywhere. Climbed as 2 parties with Auble and Townsend in one party, who made summit bid on 12th after climbing continuously from 9th with 2 bivs. On 12th reached 6600m and turned back because did not want to descend with technical difficulties in the dark; made this attempt with Wilson. All three of them down to BC and climb finished.

  Had not realized until back in KTM that regulations required them to stop climbing on 15th Nov. Other 2 members reached high point of 6300-6400m (normal C3).


expid: AMAD90306
peakid: AMAD
year: 1990
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Roland Losso
sponsor: Italian Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 77th (w/UK),78th
bcdate: 1990-10-15
smtdate: 1990-10-25
campsites: BC(15/10,4500m),C1(17/10,5500m),C2(21/10,6100m),Smt(25-26/10)
accidents: Magar slight frostbite
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  Other members turned back on 24th at 6500m because of strong winds; then Bahadur managed to reach summit and has only very slight frostbite. Much new snow in not good condition made climb difficult and old rope deeply buried.

  So many expeditions on same route at same time not good. No place at BC for tents, no place on sharp ridge, have to wait for others to go up and thus for acclimatization too little time.


expid: PUMO90304
peakid: PUMO
year: 1990
route1: Pumori W Basin-W Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Steve Van Meter
sponsor: Colorado Pumori Expedition
bcdate: 1990-09-23
smtdate: 1990-10-09
smttime: 0700
termdate: 1990-10-11
termnote: Abandoned at 6890m due to rock striking McCormick
campsites: BC(23/09,5350m),C1(28/09,5790m),C2(04/10,6480m),Biv(08/10,6860m),xxx(09/10,6890m)
accidents: McCormick eye injured by falling rock
agency: Nepal Himal
routememo:
  BC  near point 5295 on National Geographic map
  C1  in middle of 1st icefall
  C2  at top of Col on West Ridge
  Biv on West Ridge
  High point on West Ridge.

  From BC climbed along ridge N from Pt 5295, then west to left of Pt 5412 a glacier; then skirted 2nd icefall to bottom of col and up 1000 ft of 70 degrees ice to col and fixed 1000 ft of rope here. Col at 21,300 ft they figured (=6492m - map says 6479m), where finally joined W Ridge and put C2, all 3 members together. On 5th Oct McCormick and Nowak down to base of col for more rope and all met at C1. 7th Oct all rested in C2. 8th all 3 got through 1st rock stop, dug snow cave a 22,500 ft (6860m) and slept there. At 4:00 am 9th got up and left by 6:00 am and were going for summit when Nowak knocked off loose rock in shale steps only a rope length above cave and it arced downwards and hit McCormick who looked around and up from a very protected spot rock smashed his glasses and blood formed behind his eye. Climb immediately aborted, Nowak lowered Van Meter 1st and then McCormick. Reached C2 by 4 pm. To BC on 10th and left BC 11th. McCormick to Lukla in 2 days. McCormick was able to stumble down did not go into shock. Lucky to be alive.


expid: PUMO90311
peakid: PUMO
year: 1990
route1: SE Face-NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Philippe Grenier
sponsor: Terres d'Adventure Pumori
ascent1: 57th
bcdate: 1990-10-26
smtdate: 1990-11-01
campsites: BC(26/10,5300m),C1(28/10,6200m),Smt(01/11)
accidents: None
agency: Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
routememo:
  BC near smaller lake
  C1 on SE Face.

  3 members and 1 Sherpa to top and Denais stopped 50m from it, very tired. "Condition on mountain very good" but it was very cold.


expid: PUMO90309
peakid: PUMO
year: 1990
route1: SE Face-NE Ridge
route2: S Ridge up; NE Ridge-SE Face down
nation: USA
leaders: Andrew Lapkass
sponsor: 1990 American Pumori
ascent1: 55th,56th
ascent2: 59th
bcdate: 1990-10-21
smtdate: 1990-10-27
othersmts: Climbed Pokalde (Kendall, Lapkass and Radford)
campsites: BC(21/10,5300m),C1(24/10,6200m),Smt(27,30/10,03/11)
accidents: None
achievment: Andy Lapkass climbed three times; also made 1st solo traverse and 3rd solo ascent (Nov 3)
agency: Tawache
routememo:
  BC below smaller lake to SE of mountain
  C1 atop a rock rib at snow lane on SE Face (normal C2).

  Fixed ropes on normal route up SE face with idea of acclimatizing here and then going to South Col and South Ridge and use normal route via NE Ridge and down route they'd fixed. On SE Face was in such good condition were able to pitch C1 on 24th. 25th C1 stocked. 26th Lapkass and Kendall up to sleep in C1 and on 27th 3:00 am started up from C1, fixing rope and climbing went very fast and just carried on to summit via East Col and NE Ridge and descended to BC on same day.

  Confident now that climb for clients was quickest and safest way to top. 28th Jennings and Radford to C1 for summit on 29th but had restless night and spent extra day at C1. 29th J Lapkass, Schneider and A Lapkass to C1. 30th 10:05 am Jennings and Radford to C1 for summit on 29th but had restless night and spent extra day at C1. 29th J Lapkass, Schneider and A Lapkass left for top. Schneider stayed in C1. 30th 4 men to top at noon and back to C1 at 5:00 pm, clients exhausted. 31st to BC (Schneider to BC 30th afternoon). 1st and 2nd Nov rest days. 

  3rd Nov 00:05 am A Lapkass from BC to S Col and S Ridge, on top at 8:00 am and down normal route to BC at 11:30 am in solo traverse. French and US worked well together.


expid: PUMO90310
peakid: PUMO
year: 1990
route1: SE Face-NE Ridge
route2: S Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Pierre Frachon
sponsor: Atalante Pumori Expedition
ascent1: 58th,60th,62nd
ascent2: 61st
bcdate: 1990-10-23
smtdate: 1990-11-02
accidents: Penneman frozen fingers; Gadel slight frostbite on one toe
agency: Thamserku Trekking
campsites:
  BC(23/10,5300m),SRidgeRte:C1(25/10,5050m),C2(27/10,6050m),C3(30/10,6400m),Smt(03/11); SEFace-NERidgeRte:C1(26/10,6150m),Smt(02-03,07/11)

routememo:
  BC near smaller lake
  C1 on SE Face on route from larger lake towards S Ridge
  C2 on same
  C3 on S Ridge
  C1 on SE Face.

  Two teams (one by South Ridge and the other who didn't like that route when they saw the ridge, went he normal way) climbed simultaneously: 

  S Ridge: started on 25th Oct and reached top. 3 Nov Nawang Thile Sherpa and Frachon to top; Coupez, Prouvost and Penneman to max 6700m because of strong wind. Pennenan's fingers badly frostbitten (will lose one finger) and he was evacuated by helicopter. S Ridge too difficult technically for most members.

  Normal route (SE Face to NE Ridge): used American's fixed ropes and to top:
  2 Nov - Cour, Gadel and Latrubesse
  3 Nov - Buisson, Jacq, Jouannet, Chapus & Durazzo and Kami Sherpa
  7 Nov - Prouvost and Coupez


expid: PUMO90301
peakid: PUMO
year: 1990
route1: SE Face-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Ernest Blade
sponsor: Pumori 1990
ascent1: 49th w/Spa
bcdate: 1990-08-22
smtdate: 1990-09-29
smttime: 1345
termdate: 1990-09-30
campsites: BC(22/08,5320m),C1(15/09,6180m),Smt(29/09)
accidents: Domenech fell Sep 6 carrying gear to C1, broke both legs
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  BC at S (bottom) end of big lake and its samll neighbor lake
  C1 at S Col of Pumori.

  C1 established only on 15th because of heavy snowfall and after Domenech fall "not high morale." Route to C1 was SW side of big lake up face to col on S Ridge. Above C1 followed S Ridge, a little bit on its eastern flank. Moved slowly after C1 because of deep snow. On 24th reached 6400m only in deep snow and returned to BC. 

  On 27th (3 members left now - 2 members came to KTM with Domenech, Minguella flew to Spain with him while Josep Castellet stayed in KTM) packed up all gear to to go to KTM but 27th night good weather (before 27th snowed everyday from 10:00 am) so suddenly decided to climb again. 28th morning started up and reached C1 where slept. 29th left C1 at 2:30 am; snow not so deep now (before had to use pail to get rid of very deep snow, now snow below knee). Reached top 1:45 pm by which time was windy and foggy, and returned to C1 about 5:00 pm. 30th to Pheriche.


expid: PUMO90308
peakid: PUMO
year: 1990
route1: SE Face-S Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kiyoshi Ishii
sponsor: Kintaro-no-kai Alpine Pumori Expedition 1990
bcdate: 1990-10-07
smtdate: 1990-10-17
termdate: 1990-10-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to dangerous snow conditions
campsites: BC(07/10,5300m),C1(12/10,5800m),C2(17/10,6200m),xxx(17/10,6200m)
accidents: Hashegawa edema
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at left side of lakes
  C1 on SE Face above and west-northwest of lakes
  C2 at Col of S Ridge
  High point at C2.

  Snow above C2 dangerous: big snow mushrooms. 2 nights in C2 for Ishii and Mimura, 1 night for Hashigawa who went down on 18 Oct with altitude sickness and went to BC 18th, Pheriche aid post 19th and recovered there with medication (no oxygen) and Gamov bag.

  Ishii comes back to Pumori for solo ascent of same route (no mushrooms if very good weather) in Autumn 1992.


expid: PUMO90302
peakid: PUMO
year: 1990
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Giuseppe Castelnuovo
sponsor: Citta di Lecco Pumori Himalaya 1990
bcdate: 1990-09-03
smtdate: 1990-09-15
termdate: 1990-09-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6150m due to dangerous snow conditions and lack of time
campsites: BC(03/09,5000m),ABC(04/09,5400m),C1(12/09,5850m),C2(15/09,6150m),xxx(15/09,6150m)
accidents: None
agency: Trekking International
routememo:
  BC  at Lobuche Glacier near small lake
  ABC near Kalapattar (east of KP and SW of big lake)
  C2  just below Pt 6188m at SE Ridge-S Ridge junction
  High point at C2.

  Climb halted at C2 because too much snow already and avalanche danger too great and no time to wait for safer snow conditions. So Negri descended 16 Sept and climbing ceased. Team left ABC 17 Sept and BC 18 Sept. Castelnuovo and Spreafico on 15th back to C1 because no room for them at C2 and they "preferred C1."


expid: PUMO90305
peakid: PUMO
year: 1990
route1: S Ridge (to 6500m)
route2: SE Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Mario Dibona
sponsor: Gruppo Scoiattoli Cortina Pumori 1990
ascent2: 52nd
bcdate: 1990-10-01
smtdate: 1990-10-14
smttime: 0800
campsites: BC(01/10,5300m),C1A(04/10,6200m),C1B(12/10,5400m),C2(13/10,6300m),Smt(14/10)
accidents: 3 men some frostbitten toes that will be OK
agency: Trekking International
routememo:
  BC  at left side of big lake
  1st C1 at col on S Ridge
  2nd C1 on SE Face
  C2  on SE Face.

  10 days at research laboratory at Lobuche. Then attempted to climb S Ridge from SE via snow field above lake. Reached 6500m and then gave up this route because of deep snow and avalanche 10th Oct. Down to BC. 

  Changed route to SE Face. 7 hrs from C2 to summit and return to C2 in very cold strong wind. From C2 at 3:00 am, on top 8:00 am and again in C2 10:00 am and BC 2:00 pm. Difficult climb in C2 area because wind cold.


expid: PUMO90307
peakid: PUMO
year: 1990
route1: S Ridge
route2: SE Face-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Andy Perkins
sponsor: Pumori Expedition 1990
ascent1: 53rd
ascent2: 54th
countries: USA
bcdate: 1990-10-05
smtdate: 1990-10-25
othersmts: Mehra and Island Peak
accidents: Perkins slight frostbite; Woolridge altitide sickness
agency: Yangrima
campsites:
  BC(05/10,5200m),SRidgeRte:C1A(14/10,6150m),C2A(24/10,6500m),Smt(25/10); SEFace-NERidgeRte:C1B(24/10,6000m),C2B(25/10,6400m),Smt(26/10)

routememo:
  BC  southwest of smaller lake
  C1A on SW Ridge's right for ridge
  C2A on South Ridge
  C1B on SE Face
  C2B at col.

  After BC established, went in pairs to climb smaller peaks (no permits) and then back to BC about 12 Oct. Perkins made C1 on 24th at about 6000m on SE Face, 25th to col and made C2 at 6400m and to top along NE Ridge next day. 

  Woolridge and Cox did nice route on NE Face of Mehra and also climbed Island Peak and Polkalde, but Cox did not set foot on Pumori and Woolridge had bad night at South Ridge C1 from altitude sickness. Gibson also only to C1 on Ridge route and enthusiasm marred. Avalanche left debris around normal route's C2 but did not damage.

  "Splintered" expedition of pairs of climbers.


expid: PUMO90303
peakid: PUMO
year: 1990
route1: SE Face-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Alberto Inurrategi
sponsor: Pumori 1990 Expedition
ascent1: 49th w/Spa
bcdate: 1990-09-16
smtdate: 1990-09-29
smttime: 1345
campsites: BC(16/09,5300m),C1(28/09,6200m),Smt(29/09)
accidents: None
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  BC at south end of small lake below big lake
  C1 north of big lake.

  After arrived at BC, stayed there 10 days to acclimatize and on 27 Sept began on route above. On 26th slept in C1, 29th to summit and back to C1. Started from C1 at 3:00 am, on top at 1:45 pm, very windy so down after 30 minutes return to C1 at 5:00 pm. From C1 climbed SE Face to Col on NE Ridge and along ridge to summit. "A little difficult snow" below C1 and fixed 600m rope to C1 (this only rope they fixed).


expid: PUMO90312
peakid: PUMO
year: 1990
route1: SE Face-NE Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Aleksander Lwow
ascent1: 63rd
bcdate: 1990-11-10
smtdate: 1990-11-12
smttime: 1415
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak and Parchamo (20m of top)
campsites: LobujeBC(10/11,4930m),ABC(11/11,5530m),Smt(12/11)
accidents: None
achievment: 4th solo ascent
routememo:
  BC  at Lobuche village
  ABC at point 5529m on National Geographic map, just east of larger lake.

  12th Nov 7 am started climb with biv gear; up series of ridges to col 6576m on NE Ridge, where arrived at 11:00 am, left gear and ate and on to summit at 2:15 pm; 4:15 pm back in C1 (on top 10 mins in very strong wind). Perfect snow conditions. Had been with friends on Island Peak which he climbed to top in 3 hrs, after ascent of Pachermo to 20m below summit.

  Had no permission for Pumori.


expid: PUMO90306
peakid: PUMO
year: 1990
route1: SE Spur-NE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Friedrich (Fritz) Zintl
sponsor: DAV Summit Club Expedition to Pumori
ascent1: 50th,51st
bcdate: 1990-10-01
smtdate: 1990-10-09
smttime: 1300
termdate: 1990-10-16
campsites: BC(01/10,5350m),C1(03/10,5750m),C2(06/10,6050m),Smt(09,11/10)
accidents: 2 members got slightly frostbitten toes; Moenig also ill (chest)
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC near smaller lake
  C2 at shoulder of SE Spur.

  C2 had to be a bit low for safety from avalanches so some older and less experienced members could not get to top. Not enough rope available for C3 on col (they would have need this rope in area of crevasses on steep section where upper lip is several meters higher than lower lip).

  1st summit started from C2 at 7:00 am (very cold night and 1st on top was Hoelzler at 1:00 pm and Zintls about 2:00 pm. 

  2nd summit party started as 5 members and 3 turned back at col (6580m), 2 with very cold feet and 1 was too slow to reach top and return in daylight. Remaining two Donner and Staiger reached top. 

  13th both Klinks tried for top from C2 but could not go above col. Team left BC 16th.


expid: CHOY90302
peakid: CHOY
year: 1990
route1: SW Face up; W Face-W Ridge down
nation: Poland
leaders: Voytek Kurtyka
sponsor: Swiss-Polish Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 72nd
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 1990-08-25
smtdate: 1990-09-21
smttime: 0830
termdate: 1990-09-26
othersmts: Climbed Xixabangma (middle summit) on 3 Oct by 2 Swiss at 10 am, by Polish at 6 pm via South Face
campsites: ChineseBC(25/08),ABC(28/08,5700m),Biv(20/09,8150m),Smt(21/09)
accidents: Troillet serious pulmonary edema on Aug 30 down to Zangmu hospital
agency: None
routememo:
  After arrival at expedition's BC, acclimatization climb to 7000m done by all 3 men on normal route (to C2) and then to expedition's BC on 8 Sept. Started up only on 19th having waited for snowfall to stop; started on 19th at 11:00 am and at 2:00 pm were base of face where had rest & meal. At 6:00 pm started up (at sunset/dusk) had personal biv sack and half of a thin mattress, 1 gas stove and 1 gas cartridge; each had candy bars, nuts and mineral drink powder; cache was down-type suits but took no sleeping bags; 2 ice axes each, crampons; 2 30m rope X 7mm; 10 pitons and 4 ice screws ("upper part looked more difficult route than normal route, no crampons" - Kurtyka) but actually used only 1 or 2 pitons and no screws; up the face, which was reached at 7:00 pm, via a couloir which is about 1000m high & covered in snow and acting as a shute, requiring climber to move a meter or so to right or left; top of couloir started to get much steeper and became mixed rock and snow; at 7500m, 3/4 of way up face, stopped to heat water and rested an hour. 

  On 20th from 10:00 am to 4:30 pm on face; at 4:30 pm reached SE Ridge and on SW Ridge they took 2 hrs to gain 20 vertical meters (mixed rock and snow with some snowfield in poor snow which was very deep and loose); at 7:30 pm stopped at small flat place 50 vertical meters below true summit where cold (too small to lie down). Stayed 12 hrs at this spot at 8150m because Voytek needed to sleep and difficult for him to go non-stop without food, water and sleep in his first experience of this kind of climb (says Swiss). 

  Next day, 21st, to top at 8:30am in not very cold, clear morning with no wind; stayed 1/2 hr on top and then started down. Came straight down to C2 via direct variation of normal route others on mountain at this time were following. At C2 Hungarian presented 1 tin of beer and congrats. At expedition's BC at 5:00 pm after visiting other's camps enroute; waited for yaks to arrive and left expedition BC 26th and 27th to Nyean.

  Most difficult part: steep snow and rock just above couloir, also 20 vertical m; total of 4 sections of 20-30m that were technically difficult.
   
  Fixed no rope: used rope and pitons only for belays - had taken 2 ropes in case of rapelling.

  Would not recommend route for anyone who cannot do quick ascent; if snowfall would be dangerous avalanching.

  How they could succeed when others on normal route failed? "You have to have the mental push" says Troillet.


expid: CHOY90301
peakid: CHOY
year: 1990
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: Spain
leaders: Sebastian Alvaro Lomba
sponsor: Al Filo de la Impossible to Cho Oyu & Xixabangma
ascent1: 79th
approach: From Xixabangma->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1990-10-08
smtdate: 1990-10-19
termdate: 1990-10-24
othersmts: Climbed Xixabangma (middle summit)
campsites: ChineseBC(08/10),ABC(11/10,5500m),Biv1(13/10,6200m),Biv2(17/10,6800m),C3(18/10,7500m),Smt(19/10)
accidents: Some frostbite by 3 members which will heal
agency: Trekking International
routememo:
  Chinese BC at normal site.

  13 Oct to 6200m and slept there but down on 14th with new snowfalling. 17 Oct again up and biv at normal C2 site. Tamayo found temperatures too cold for him and went down 19th while others up to top and to BC same day; cold winds were problem.

  2 members only few days in ABC and then to Lhasa and returned to Chinese BC on 22nd and climbing members to BC on 23rd.


expid: CHOY90304
peakid: CHOY
year: 1990
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N (direct)
nation: Italy
leaders: Oscar Piazza
sponsor: Italians to Cho Oyu
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1990-09-08
smtdate: 1990-10-01
termdate: 1990-10-03
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to lack of experience, not eating well
accidents: Only Mich infected tooth
campsites:
  ChineseBC(08/09,4750m),ABC(13/09,5800m),C1(17/09,6400m),C2(21/09,6950m),Biv(30/09,7550m),xxx(01/10,7800m)

routememo:
  After C1 down to BC for logistical preparation, 20 Sept to C1 but in the night Mich had serious tooth problem in bad night for all, so on 21 Sept he went down and other 3 made for C2 and sleep there and then down in bad weather (fog and little snow and little wind) to ABC. Mich's tooth infected and he had to leave for treatment; other 3 in ABC 8 days because of bad weather; no movement on mountain by anyone and Italian Lenti group went home. 29th 3 members from ABC to C2; 30th after not good night start for C3 but do not make C3, biv at 7550m near C3 site; others spend night strong wind and very cold. 1st Oct again up in summit bid in crusted snow; at 7800m wind gaining strength and little cold, 1 member not so well, other's toes beginning to freeze, so go down to ABC at night, very tired. After 1 day Stedile decides finished for him and he goes to order yaks while othe 2 go up to clear higher camps. Men tired and experiment with synthetic diet unsuccessful (couldn't keep this food in stomachs).


expid: CHOY90303
peakid: CHOY
year: 1990
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N (Tichy var)
nation: Spain
leaders: Fabio Lenti
sponsor: Italian-French Expedition Allibert to Cho Oyu
countries: France, Italy
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1990-09-02
smtdate: 1990-09-17
termdate: 1990-09-25
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to dangerous snow conditions
campsites: ChineseBC(28/08),ABC(02/09,4800m),C1(06/09,5800m),C2(08/09,6400m),C3(17/09,7300m),xxx(17/09,7300m)
accidents: None
routememo:
  Between 8 and 17 Sept much snowfall; had to make more direct than Tichy route above C2 because normal route was too dangerous; above C3 big couloir with great snow avalanche danger and climb above not possible. Four French members have stayed on only to bring down camps but not to try for summit. C3 reached only once, on 17th Sept for 1 night only.

  Larry of French group and Mich of Piazza group returned to KTM on 27th Sept with all of Lenti's Italian and Spanish members.

  After Lenti group left, went up to C1 and tried to get to C2 but everyday snow fell; reached just below C2 and Sherpas never reached C3 to clean it. French left ABC 29 Sept.


expid: CHOY90306
peakid: CHOY
year: 1990
route1: W Ridge-W Face from S
nation: Spain
leaders: Josep Pujante
sponsor: Catalan Expedition Cho Oyu
ascent1: 75th
approach: Khumbu->Nangpa La
bcdate: 1990-09-15
smtdate: 1990-10-06
smttime: 1330
campsites: BC(15/09,5350m),C1(29/09,6350m),C2(03/10,7000m),C3(05/10,7500m),Smt(06/10)
accidents: Slight frostbite by 2 members
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  BC at correct site of Kangchung
  C1 on rocks below Spanish 1984 C2
  C2 near 1984 at C4.

  Reached C1 via Nangpa La and followed Spanish 1984 Autumn route to C3 and from there more direct route to summit tried by others this autumn. 3 members and Ang Phurba left C3 at 6:30 am and arrived at top 1:30 to 1:45 pm (reached true summit after going long distance to reach it); route "long but easy"; windy days in Oct had blown Sept snow away.

  Ang Phurba to Everest top with 1985 Spring and 3 nations Spring 1988.


expid: CHOY90308
peakid: CHOY
year: 1990
route1: W Ridge-W Face from S
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Norbert Joos
sponsor: Swiss Cho Oyu Expedition
countries: Germany
bcdate: 1990-10-19
smtdate: 1990-10-23
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to client's decision to quit
campsites: BC(19/10,5100m),C1(22/10,5700m),xxx(23/10,6000m)
accidents: None
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at last yak huts Lunag, below Kangchung
  C1 across Nangpa La
  High point at Gyabrag Glacier.

  23 Oct Hunziker tired and hungry on beautiful day and said he would not return over this glacier again; so climb finished with having done no more than high-altitude trek to point east of Pt 6600m on eastern side of glacier. Hunziker and Edenhofer were clients of Joos. Edenhofer had not planned to go above BC. Joos made no attempt to climb alone because of his responsibilities as client's guide.


expid: CHOY90307
peakid: CHOY
year: 1990
route1: W Ridge-W Face from S
nation: Spain
leaders: Pedro Jose Tous Roldan
sponsor: Uda 1990 - to Cho Oyu
ascent1: 74th,77th
bcdate: 1990-09-17
smtdate: 1990-10-06
smttime: 1200
campsites: BC(17/09,5350m),ABC(26/09,5700m),C1(28/09,6450m),C2(29/09,7000m),Smt(06,08/10)
accidents: Sherpa sick (coughing blood, so weak in summit bid and turned back at 7500m)
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  BC at same as Catalans this autumn
  C2 at same as Catalans.

  Reached summit from C2. On 6th left C2 at 2:00 am and on true top at 12:00 noon and back to C2 4:30 pm. On 8th started at 3:00 am, on top 2:00 pm and back to C2 7:00 pm in dark. Had no headlamps; bright moonlight on ascent.

  Made no attempt to climb SW Ridge.


expid: CHOY90309
peakid: CHOY
year: 1990
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USSR
leaders: Alexander Glushkovski
sponsor: Ask Tours & Visotnik Cho Oyu 1990 Expedition
countries: Bulgaria
bcdate: 1990-10-23
smtdate: 1990-11-14
termnote: Abandoned at 7850m due to weather and lack of time
accidents: None
agency: Amtrek
campsites:
  BC(23/10,5050m),C1(26/10,5600m),C2(28/10,6000m),C3(06/11,7000m),C4(09/11,7100-7200m),C5(12/11,7500m),Biv(13/11,7850m),xxx(14/11,7850m)

routememo:
  BC near Gyazumpa
  C1 at small plateau south point 6500m at bottom of its ridges
  C2 at point 6500m's on SW Ridge
  C3 at icefall above point 6500m
  C4 at saddle just N of "U" of Gosum on Schneider map
  C5 at flat saddle on SW ridge just east of 7600m peak ridge
  High point at SW ridge.

  Difficulties began from C2 (between below C2 had fixed ropes), very steep snow and rock and point 6500 and dangerous and all fixed rope C2 and C3. Very strong winds above C3 from Tibet constantly. Above C5 tried to keep to SE Ridge on northern side of ridge to snowfield where ridge got very steep to go up couloir (or perhaps to go up on Tibetan side to another snow couloir). On 13th reached snowfield and spent night in small tent with no ground sheet. Had been unable to see way above. Next day clouds and winds worse and worse and temperature dropped, becoming extremely cold so retreated to C4 and abandoned climb with such terrible weather. Fixed total of 2500m rope, mostly from C2 to C3 and some (200m) from C4 to C5 to cross the ridge. 

  Route is possible with more time (including better phase of moon affecting weather). Left variant on to Tibetan side is easier than variant to right side.


expid: CHOY90305
peakid: CHOY
year: 1990
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: Hungary
leaders: Sandor Nagy
sponsor: Hungarian Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 73rd,76th,78th
countries: Austria
bcdate: 1990-09-13
smtdate: 1990-10-04
smttime: 1800
campsites: ABC(13/09,5700m),C1(16/09,6250m),C2(20/09,6950m),C3(29/09,7450m),Smt(04,07-08/10)
accidents: Koncz snowblinded on final descent day; Nagy slight frostbite
routememo:
  3rd Oct, 1st summit bid stopped 8000m by strong wind. 4th Oct, 3 members to summit from C2, Wlasich and others from C3; Austrian left C2 6:00 am Chinese time and other 3 left 10:00 am with Austrian; reached true top at 6:00 pm and down to C3 and C2 (Hungarian 2 had been in Chinese BC when C3 established).

  7th Oct party left C3 at 9:30 am and on top 15:00-15:30 hrs and down to C2 to leave space in C3 for next summiters; they were 6 Hungarians, but Nagy turned back because frostbite developing.

  Last group left C3 9:30 am, on top 17:00 hrs and down to C3 (Szendro arrived at C3 at 21:30 hrs in slow descent in strong wind and with artificial leg from teenage accident). 

  10th Oct 3 members tried for top, but stormy and very cold and reached only 7600m.


expid: TAWO90302
peakid: TAWO
year: 1990
route1: SE Pillar-SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Juergen Knappe
sponsor: German Tawoche Expedition
ascent1: 9th
bcdate: 1990-10-16
smtdate: 1990-10-26
smttime: 1340
campsites: BC(16/10,5150m),C1(25/10,5850m),Smt(26/10)
accidents: None
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at yak huts Sanshochopo under East Face near small lake
  C1 at top of rock pillar, SE Pillar.

  Did new route on SE Pillar's face to SE Ridge. Some really difficult steep rock climbing in last pitch on pillar. Before getting onto pillar had to fix 200-300m to traverse pinnacles to save time when proceeding to climb pillar; fixed no rope on pillar. Pinnacles began at 5300m and pillar also began at 5300m. Biv on 25 Oct by 4 members. On 26 Oct all to summit up SE Ridge: one step at start of SE Ridge found old ropes and here joined other people's route (this step in at top a couloir leading to SE Ridge. Started climb on 26th at 8:00 am and on top at 1:40 pm via not very difficult ridge (4 pitches of ice climbing but good snow and ice conditions on 50-60-degree slope and fixed no rope here. Only 2 on summit while other 2 lost time on rock step, were 1 hour behind summiters and stopped ascent at about 6300m. Summiters back in C1 at 4:00 pm and all slept that night at C1. 27th 3 down pillar and Fuetterer stayed in camp and on 28th tried again for summit. Fuetterer reached about 6350m in snow pitches and down to BC same day.


expid: TAWO90301
peakid: TAWO
year: 1990
route1: NE Pillar
nation: France
leaders: Pierre Rizzardo
sponsor: French Expedition to Tawoche
bcdate: 1990-10-15
smtdate: 1990-10-23
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due dangerous snow conditions and route difficulty
campsites: BC(15/10,4750m),Biv(18/10,5750m),xxx(23/10)
accidents: None
agency: Sherpa Trekking Service (STS)
routememo:
  BC at bottom of East Face beside glacier (just north of point 5110m on Schneider map).

  Too much snow on very technical climb, very steep. 14 Oct 10 cm snow at Pheriche. 15th teams split in 2 parties to determine whether East Face or North Face better. 1st 200m above BC 200m of artificial climbing. Next 2 days spent trying to surmount tower but impossible and too dangerous to progress with prevailing snow conditions. Snow sticking to rock slabs. 21 Oct 4 climbers went up with supplies for 10 days to top but after 2 days very hard climbing gave up, Gicquel believes (he left BC 23rd).

  Team wanted to change route but liaison officer refused.


expid: LHOT90302
peakid: LHOT
year: 1990
route1: S Face (new line)
nation: France
leaders: Christophe Profit
sponsor: French Lhotse S Face Expedition
bcdate: 1990-09-10
smtdate: 1990-10-09
termdate: 1990-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to winds
campsites: BC(10/09,5100m),xxx(09,19/09,7600m)
accidents: None
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  BC at 50m above USSR BC on west side of Lhotse Glacier
  C2 at series of bivouacs
  High point at 2 points on South Face.

  1st attempt of couloir and to left; stopped at 7600m; 2nd went right and much wind so extreme right to Kukuczka C5. Had wanted to acclimatize on Lhotse Shar to 6800m once or twice but Spaniards did not agree (why don't understand) so climbed on Polish route but one day big wind slab came down when were at 6200m. Were well acclimatized when started up own route (Polish route very dangerous from avalanche).

  1st attempt on own route began on 6 Oct from BC; reached 5800m for 1st biv (too dangerous to go up couloir in day time so slept here all day - had arrived at 9:00 am). 8:00 pm of 6th started up again and climbed couloir all night in good moonlight and stopped at top of gully at 8:00 am of 7th. This place very dangerous because with sunshine stone fall began - were hit by stones but not seriouly hurt; pitched tent and stayed one day there before attempting difficult rock and ice, made better places for tent. 8 Oct at 11:00 pm again up (ice made better places for tent). 8th Oct at 11:00 pm again up (ice soft in day so impossible because of difficulty) and arrived at Russian fixed ropes and reached 7600m at 8:00 am where pitched tent 20 minutes below Russian C5. Slept one night at this biv and 10 Oct decided not to use Russian fixed rope since not alpine-style to do so and also winds strong so decided to go down; also now discovered a possible new route to right. Descended to BC on 10th in 5 hours by Russian ropes with plan to abandon route to left. 16th Oct began up again and reached 5800m biv place and 17th to a new 2nd biv at slightly different site on right at 7200m onto face at noon. From here began difficult rock and mixed at "extremely difficulty." 18th climbed long day and surmounted all the difficulties but wind became strong; biv at 7400m at 8:00 pm. 19th wind "terrible" which pushed powdered snow avalanche upwards so went quickly to Kukuczka C5 looking for protection and biv there at 7600m under rock. 20th am stove broken and dangerous to use and wind "impossible" and decided to go down via Kukucza route; started at 12:00 noon and at 6500m at 5:30 pm [biv] in good crevasse. 21st to BC.

  Both went to return to face in '91 or '92.


expid: LSHR90301
peakid: LSHR
year: 1990
route1: S Ridge-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Merce Macia
sponsor: Mataro Expedition to Himalaya - Lhotse Shar
ascent1: 8th
bcdate: 1990-08-23
smtdate: 1990-10-08
smttime: 1100
accidents: Only 2 members have frostbitten toes which will heal
achievment: 1st Spanish to any Lhotse summit
agency: Kunga
campsites:
  BC(23/08,5200m),C1(02/09,5750m),C2(10/09,6250m),C3(17/09,6800m),C4(25/09,7350m),Biv(07/10,7900m),Smt(08/10)

routememo:
  BC east of Island Peak's point 5357 on National Geographic map.

  Badiola and Valles made bivouac at 7900m and on 7th Oct as planned during climb; no C5 because with no Sherpas. Spanish members had worked hard and some not well acclimatized. 3000m rope fixed from C1 to C4 up difficult route. C2, C3 and C4 were snow caves because of strong winds; lots of snow ridge with windslabs, which they carefully avoided. Reached top at 11:00 am in clear day in strong wind (which caused Soviets on Lhotse S Face to freeze feet during biv without tent). Spanish bivouacked in small tent, which was blown into Tibet with sleeping bags, etc.; only 1 pole left of biv. Summiters went down to C4 in snow cave; Valles no frostbite, but Badiola slightly frostbitten toes. Last 5m to top 90 degrees ice and very technical climbing and necessary to rapell down this section; top had big cornices.

  Macia turned back at 7500m on 6th Oct because not well acclimatized. Had been climbing on 6th with Valles and Badiola. She was only other member to go above C4.


expid: LHOT90301
peakid: LHOT
year: 1990
route1: S Face
nation: USSR
leaders: Alexander Shevtchenko
sponsor: USSR Lhotse 1990 Expedition Profsport
ascent1: 23rd
bcdate: 1990-09-09
smtdate: 1990-10-16
smttime: 1800
accidents: Members pneumonia; several frostbite cases with 2 serious
agency: Mustang
campsites:
  BC(09/09,5090m),C1(12/09,6000m),C2(14/09,6550m),C3(20/09,6800m),C4(24/09,7100m),C5(30/09,7350m),C6(06/10,7800m),SnowCave(11/10,8250m),Smt(16/10)

routememo:
  Route actually climbed was essentially same as planned route with variations no more than 50m to right or left. Most important variation was between C5 and C6 because falling rock and ice pieces on planned route and poor belays and where as to left of plan steeper but safer and good belay; difficulties: 150m below C1 and technical route from C4 all the way to summit; a vertical rock with avalanches of snow and ice and rock. Above C4 problems were loose rock, technical difficulties, ice covering on rocks made belays difficult and fierce winds began on 13th Oct. Fixed total of 4 km of rope. Had planned one group to climb in alpine-style but on arrival saw could not do so on their route with prevailing snow ice conditions and some did climbing via couloir. This way but could not get above 7600m because of danger from poor belays and falling things.

  On 11th Oct snow cave made by and occupied by 4 members. Very cold and windy hence no tents but cave. Fixed ropes above C6 (to 7900m only). Had to fix ropes above cave and 13th Oct all 4 men tried to reach summit and went above 4 fixed ropes but too windy and frosty and big mushrooms overhangs which made belay difficult (some fell 20m with snow but not hurt) so turned back just near summit. Only 4-5 ropes below top) at 8460m. On 13th Oct 3 members arrived at snowcave and 7 slept there. 14th first group very tired from climb of 13th without oxygen and a member (head cold) down only 150m and put tent there for night because visability nil on most difficult part of route and no fixed ropes here (doctor got bad frostbite) and 15th on down to C3 and 16th to C1 after reaching fixed ropes. 14th 2 members remained in cave; from cave not possible to follow others route and on 15th 2 members reached for better route: traversed to couloir and up a little (2 ropes) and back to cave, knowing couloir would go. 16th Oct Karataev and Bershov at first thought they would descend W Face but were informed by BC no one there. Left cave at 8:30 am (waited for sun, befelled by no oxygen and under estimated distance of summit). Took 2 ropes and 1 bottle of oxygen for later use - took much time to reach ledge (rock covered by snow on last 20 minutes below ledge and then hard rock) which got to 4:00 pm Karataev sick with flu, moved slowly and joined Bershov only at 5:15 pm 30-40m below summit. Had used oxygen on hard rock in morning for 3 hours. Finally on top about 6:00 pm together, stayed few minutes in strong wind with gusts from different directions.

  When descending felt he was a bed sheet on clothes line; Karataev now got pneumonia and frostbite (lost his glove and took moment to put on another one). One returned to cave at 2:45 am and other at 4:45 am and had to wait radio on stove just turned off so as to report safe arrival. First made liquids to drink (spent some hours), other slept till evening. Began descent 18th morning and reached small cave and met by Turkevich and others who helped them in descent. Turkevich could have gone to summit but turned back to help Karataev and Bershov. A member and Turkevich were strongest of team and did very hard work making route. On 18th descended only to point previous men, made cave there at 8150m. 19th to C4 and 20th one member to C1 and other 3 members to C4 only.

  1st summit bid by Turkevich on 7th Oct with 3 members (to C4 also and a member who got pneumonia and down) who went to nearly to snow cave. Started from C4 without tent and other biv equipment; no fixed rope; reached difficult section and found good route; got to 8150m; spent night of 7th in small cave; on 8th could not reach C4 and group from that camp went up and made temporary camp for them all.

  Cesen: his reputation very good, but why he came down S Face difficulties? Beghin and Profit could climb only 1 km/day.


expid: MAKA90304
peakid: MAKA
year: 1990
route1: SE Buttress
nation: Japan
leaders: Kenzi Shimakata
sponsor: 1990 Showa Alpine Club Makalu Expedition
bcdate: 1990-09-13
smtdate: 1990-11-08
termnote: Abandoned at 7050m due to fierce winds
campsites: BC(13/09,4760m),C1(27/09,5750m),C2(07/10,6420m),xxx(08/11,7050m)
accidents: Fujita pulmonary edema; 1 Gurung slightly frostbitten fingers
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at Tangnag, south of Barun Glacier
  C1 at top of small mountain south of Makalu 
  C2 at SE Buttress
  High point at SE Buttress.

  Fujita got altitude sickness night they arrived at BC and had to be evacuated by helicopter to KTM. Returned to BC 8 Oct, after Shimakata and Sherpa had made C1 and C2. Now winds became very strong for a week, lessened for few days and again period of strong wind. Shimataka to BC 10 Oct. 15 Oct both members and Sherpas up to C1 and reached 6600m on 16th and driven back to C1 by wind. At C1 3 days and down to BC but this time tent at C1 broken by wind. 22 Oct again up by all climbers to C1 and stayed there 18 days. Above C1 route exposed to wind, which even blew away fixed rope on this section. Down to BC 9 Nov; had abandoned idea of reaching main summit but hoped for SE Summit on 12 Nov. When Fujita and Moti Lal could get only to 7050m on 8th, then gave up all attempt to climb.

  Would like to try this very good route in true alpine-style, 2 members with no Sherpas or fixed camps.


expid: BARU90302
peakid: BARU
year: 1990
route1: SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Francoise Aubert
sponsor: Ballade du Baruntse
ascent1: 22nd
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 1990-11-10
smtdate: 1990-11-15
othersmts: Climbed Gokyo Peak
campsites: BC(10/11,5400m),C1(13/11,6150m),Smt(15/11)
accidents: None at mountain; 1 porter died of illness (AMS?) on approach
agency: Sherpa Society
routememo:
  BC at northwest corner of lake 5448m on National Geographic map
  C1 at West Col.

  From C1 went to see what fixed rope needed and continued on to summit. Found Swiss Expedition's steps just below last difficult section. Had lot of sickness amongst Nepalese staff with 1 Sherpa and cook and porters sick; porter (Aurobinda Kubir Rai) died near Amphu Laptsa and sirdar had to go down to him (death from illness not exactly known perhaps altitude). 3 members also on medications for 5 days and never above BC.

  2 Swiss members were sirdar's friends who spoke with Aubert by phone in Europe but whom French had never met until just before Mera La on approach march.

  Porter who died was named Aurobinda Kubir Rai.


expid: MAKA90305
peakid: MAKA
year: 1990
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Yvan Estienne, Remi Roux
sponsor: French Makalu Expedition
countries: Italy
bcdate: 1990-09-16
smtdate: 1990-10-06
termdate: 1990-10-14
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to fierce winds and lack of time
accidents: None
agency: Everest Trekking
campsites:
  BC(16/09,5300m),Dep.ABC(18/09,5750m),C1(21/09,6200m),C2(03/10,7400m),C3(06/10,7900m),xxx(06/10,7900m)

routememo:
  BC at normal high BC site
  Deposit ABC at start of glacier
  C2 at Makalu La - 3 tents
  C3 at same as Catalan - 1 tent on NW Ridge on right side of Messner route
  High point at C3.

  At first wanted to follow Catalan route but too dangerous and went to Makalu La. From C1 to C2 1000m fixed rope. Tried three times to go high: once only to C3, other times not above Makalu La and 3 times camps destroyed by wind. Last time was on 13th; 14th down. Not so much snow but big problem was with the wind.


expid: MAKA90301
peakid: MAKA
year: 1990
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kazufumi Watanabe
sponsor: Kathmandu Club Makalu Expedition 1990
bcdate: 1990-08-25
smtdate: 1990-09-29
termdate: 1990-10-14
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to high winds and exhaustion
campsites: BC(25/08,5300m),C1(04/09,6200m),C2(16/09,7000m),C3(29/09,7800m),xxx(29/09,7900m)
accidents: None
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC same as French this autumn
  C3 100m below (on Tibetan side) of NW Ridge
  High point at NW Ridge.

  Followed normal route to normal C2 then took line safer from avalanches. After making his own C2, went down to rest at BC. Left BC up again on 19th Sept to C1; 20th to C2 and C1 on 21st (had carried load to C2) and 22nd down to BC for more supplies and 2-day rest. Then bad weather (snowfall) 25th and 26th so 4 days at BC. 27th to C1 and 28th to C2. 29th up to make C3 at 7800m on the ridge and on up to see which was best line to take ("I wanted to find a good way"), but Kukuczka route very steep rock and ice mixed. Stopped at 7900m, descended to C2 (left C3 in place). 30th down to BC for rest. 1-3 Oct at BC. 4th Oct up to C1; 5th to C2; 6th to Makalu La (normal C3) and slept French tent (day very windy and could not climb higher). 7th Oct returned to his own C1 and 8th to BC. 12th Oct to C1, 13th to C2. 14th morning big storm of new snow and old snow in strong wind and C2 tent destroyed by wind and so down ("of course"). Now bad weather with fierce wind and C2 tent destroyed and he was "very tired." 

  Were many people on route from BC to C1 and he climbed this very easy ropeless section with them. From La to C3 with French on 7th. Used no fixed rope - "I want to try again by Messner Couloir" to La.

  C1 tent broken into by black birds and 2 weeks food taken in mid-Sept.


expid: BARU90301
peakid: BARU
year: 1990
route1: SE Ridge from E
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Michael Zimmermann
sponsor: Swiss Baruntse Expedition
bcdate: 1990-09-27
smtdate: 1990-10-06
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to dangerous snow condditions and avalanche danger
campsites: BC(27/09,5200m),C1(30/09,5900m),C2(04/10,6400m),xxx(06/10,6900m)
accidents: None
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at left side of Baruntse Glacier east of point 6035m on Schneider map
  C1 below East Col (slept in this camp 2nd Oct)
  C2 half way between West Col and summit on map.

  5 Oct in 1st summit bid made trail in deep snow to 6770m and back to C2. 6th Oct went for summit but had to turn back at 6900m because could not climb along ridge and Hinku South Face snow too soft which made impossible to put in security.


expid: CHAM90301
peakid: CHAM
year: 1990
route1: N Face-SW Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Bernd Eberle
sponsor: German Chamlang Expedition
ascent1: 4th
approach: Jiri->Mera La->Hinku Valley->BC->Amphu Laptsa->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1990-10-06
smtdate: 1990-10-21
smttime: 1000
termdate: 1990-10-23
othersmts: Mera Peak
campsites: BC(06/10,5000m),DepC1(08/10,5350m),C2(19/10,6200m),C3(20/10,6600m),Smt(21/10)
accidents: 1 member slight frostbite; women 3 days high fever; 2 members altitude sickness
achievment: 1st German success in 1st German attempt
agency: Nepal Trek House
routememo:
  BC just out of southeast end of Hunku Tang Glacier
  Deposit south of big lake Chamlang Tso.

  North Pillar not possible to climb because it rises from big lake. Made deposit camp 8th Oct and then through Mera La and climbed Mera Peak for acclimatization. Reached its summit on 11th Oct. 12th to Chamlang BC and 14th Ottl and Weisner left BC (these members had not gone to Mera Peak) because of altitude sickness while other 4 stayed at BC with 30 cm fresh snow falling. 15th Oct 4 to deposit camp and 16th onto NNW Face to 5900m and back to BC after finding snow too deep. 17th Oct rested at BC and all 4 18th climbed to deposit camp (or C1). 19th 2 men climbed NNW face to 6200m to C2 where left big tent and on 20th went to C3 at 6600m at ridge. From here believe they joined Japanese route to summit on W Face. 21st 2 men to summit at around 10:00 am and down to C2. Next day all 4 in BC. 

  Slight difficulty on 50-55 degrees ice (some 70 degrees) but nothing serious and used 2 ropes only for rapelling down. Women were load carriers for their men; not enough time for them to climb since Mera Peak finished later than planned because of snowfall and 2 members had left. Left BC 23rd Oct and returned via Amphu Laptsa to Khumbu.


expid: MAKA90306
peakid: MAKA
year: 1990
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Bela Vadasz
sponsor: Alpine Skills International Makalu Expedition
countries: Canada
bcdate: 1990-09-22
smtdate: 1990-10-17
termdate: 1990-10-25
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to strong winds
accidents: Jonelis and Stevens had viral infections and left early
agency: Wilderness Experience
campsites:
  BC(27/09,5300m),C1(03/10,6300m),Biv1(15/10,6650m),Biv2(16/10,6980m),Biv3(17/10,7400m),xxx(17/10,7400m)

routememo:
  BC   at Barun Glacier's east side around from normal high BC
  C1   at Chago Glacier where it gets steep
  Biv1 at Chago Glacier steep section
  Biv2 at Chago Glacier before entering Messner couloir
  Biv3 at Makalu La (high point).

  From C1 started alpine-style climb (but Sherpas made deposits). Had 3 bivouacs above C1. Spent Oct 3rd to 15th at C1 acclimatizing with brief rest at BC for 2 days. 

  Expedition divided into separate climbing groups led by Vadasz and Ritchie. Vadasz group had 7 members at start (Burch, Farkas, Jonelis, Riggs, Schapera, Vadasz, Mrs Vadasz) but Jonelis went home and Farkas transferred to Ritchie group.

  Vadasz group made three bivouacs at 6650m, 6980m and 7400m. High winds stopped group on Oct 18 at 7400m. Oct 18th instead of going for summit when down at 1 pm when winds did not drop from 60 mph (with gusts up to 100 mph) and then went down to C1 to watch winds. When winds did not decrease but increased decided to stop. In BC waited even longer and watched winds.

  Ritchie group got no higher than 23,000 ft (7000m) in couloir on 16th Oct and turned around because of wind, logistical problems and lack of strength. This party had 1 of the 3 Sherpas with them. They made own fixed C1 and C2 (their camps at same altitudes as Vadasz's group bivs) moving a day behind. 

  Both groups left BC on 25th Oct. LO refused to allow expedition to trek out over the cols (Sherpani Col, West Col and Amphu Laptsa to Khumbu) since this was not in the plan.


expid: MAKA90303
peakid: MAKA
year: 1990
route1: SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Kwan-Jun
sponsor: 1990 Korean Makalu Expedition
bcdate: 1990-09-03
smtdate: 1990-09-26
termdate: 1990-09-28
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to loss of equipment in storm
campsites: BC(03/09,4800m),C1(08/09,5400m),C2(13/09,6100m),C3(16/09,6640m),C4(26/09,7200m),xxx(28/09,7200m)
accidents: 1 Sherpa slight frostbite and returned to KTM; Miss Kim altitude sickness
agency: Adventure Nepal
routememo:
  BC just SE of Barun Pokhari
  High point on SE Ridge.

  Avalanche on night of 27-8th Sept took 1 tent 50m down and other tent disappeared and C2 and at C3 wind and snowfall broke both tents and buried them in snow. No climbers injured although all tents occupied. This finished climb; much equipment lost. 

  From C3 to C4 "a little difficult" in strong wind. At C3 every day strong wind and snow often. Members and Sherpas made C2 and C3 together, but C4 pitched by Nepalese only; fixed 3400m rope to C4.


expid: MAKA90302
peakid: MAKA
year: 1990
route1: Kukuczka Rib direct to NW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Joaquim Prunes
sponsor: Makalu 1990
ascent1: 33rd
countries: France
bcdate: 1990-08-26
smtdate: 1990-10-03
smttime: 1610
termdate: 1990-10-11
campsites: BC(26/08,5900m),ABC(29/08),C1(05/09,7000m),C2(16/09,7800m),C3(02/10,8100m),Smt(03/10)
accidents: Zamora serious frostbitten feet; Bros slight frostbitten nose and toes
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  BC at glacier SE of point 6130m.

  7 members left BC Sept 27 because their time ran out. Rest of team rested in BC to Sept 29, when 5 members and 4 Sherpas left BC to make another summit bid. Sept 30 to C1, Oct 1 to C2 (2 Sherpas down to C1). Oct 2 C3 made by 3 members and 2 Sherpas. Oct 3 Zamora Barra noticed feet freezing and stayed in C3 with 1 Sherpa while other 2 Spaniards and Lhakpa Sherpa went for top starting at 3:30 am in deep snow. Climbing last couloir's 150m took more than 5 hrs in chest-deep snow; arrived on summit at 4:10 pm climbing final sharp snow ridge 20m (strode ridge like riding a house); back to C3 6:30 pm and slept there. Oct 4 all 5 men reached BC. Oct 11 2 members to KTM by helicopter and quickly to Spain and hospital where Bros stayed few days and Zamora one or 2 months; others left BC 7th Oct.

  This 1st 8000m summit for Lhakpa Sherpa.

  1st summit attempt was on Sept 17.


  Prunes - 5 Oct 1990

  Returned KTM early Oct (3 & 4 Oct) because 4 had to go back to work and 2 had wives trekking in Nepal. French member never reached BC because of news from family at home.

  BC  26 Aug 5900m
  ABC 29 Aug just under 7000m
  C1   5 Sept 

  9 Sept reached ridge at 7500m. Intended set a camp at 7600m but then bad weather and summit attack team wanted a higher camp. 16 Sept C2 7800m just below North Face couloir. 17 Sept 1st attack from C2 at 2 am by Angles Soler, Capdevilla and Sorolla Oliva. Weather too bad; snow deep to waist and could see nothing; at 10 am had climbed up couloir and reached 8050m; 3 pm reached foot of last wall at 8240m and snow to chest and they returned to C2; next day 18th all in BC.

  2 more summit bids prepared by 7 members and 3 Sherpas. 1st group to C2 on 23 Sept and on 24th took 2 hours to more 100m traverse in chest-deep snow and 2 avalanches so retreated. 2nd group never reached C2 because all again to BC.

  27th 6 members left BC. Others hoped to make attempt in early Oct.


expid: KANC90301
peakid: KANC
year: 1990
route1: SW Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Cho Sang-Ku
sponsor: 1990 Korean Kangchenjunga Expedition
bcdate: 1990-09-21
smtdate: 1990-10-12
smttime: 1530
termdate: 1990-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 8350m due to strong winds, deep snow and fatigue
campsites: BC(21/09,5350m),C1(30/09,6000m),C2(02/10,6250m),C3(08/10,6900m),C4(10/10,7200m),xxx(12/10,8350m)
accidents: Gombu Sherpa big toe frostbitten; Pasang Gombu frozen finger
achievment: 1st Korean attempt
agency: Adventure Nepal
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  High point at SW Face.

  23rd Sept started climb but every 2 days snowfall and avalanches; 12th Oct tried for top; Park and 2 Sherpas left C4 at 5:00 am and at 7800m Gombu Sherpa toes frozen and turned back. Park and Pasang Gombu Sherpa reached 8350m at 3:30 pm and turned back because of wind and fatigue. 2 to 2-1/2 hrs more to top (had headlamps). No C5 because weather report was for snow 13th Oct and snow did came and destroyed all 4 tents at C2. Park returned to BC 14th Oct, others up but snow very deep and took 2 days to C1. 18th Oct others had problems with deep snow on 19th and wind: found C2 buried and retreated. Left BC 24th Oct after clearing C1 and some gear at C2.


expid: EVER90307
peakid: EVER
year: 1990
route1: S Pillar (to 7700m)
route2: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Hooman Aprin
sponsor: American S Pillar Everest Expedition 1990
ascent2: 111,112,114
countries: Canada, USSR
bcdate: 1990-09-01
smtdate: 1990-10-04
smttime: 1230
termdate: 1990-10-10
accidents: Nelson pulmonary edema; Williams cerebral edema
agency: Himalayan Journeys
campsites:
  BC(01/09,5350m),C1(07/09,6100m),C2(10/09,6500m),C3.Biv1(12/09,7100m),C3.Biv2(21/09,7400m),C4(28/09,7900m),Smt(04-05,07/10)

routememo:
  1st C3 on Pillar
  2nd C3 on Lhotse Shar
  C4  at South Col
  High point at via S Pillar.

  On S Pillar, put C3 at 7100m on 12th Sept and during following 7 days fixed ropes to 7700m slightly to right of pillar. In this period 2 Sherpas hit by powdered avalanche and was left dangling on ropes and another was hit in ribs by falling block of ice (but resumed climb later on and reached col (Ang Rita from Thami, but not THE Ang Rita). On 19th avalanche covered the ropes, which could be pulled out, but the 5 clients were getting apprehensive about going up those lines so route changed to S Col (LO gave permission before ministry agreed).

  US team claims that Batard team made extensive use of US C4 equipment without permission. Batard left quickly with others while Karl Huyberechts and Annie Dubois left without food at BC; US team fed them. US changed to S Col route by moving gear from pillar C3 directly across to Lhotse Face where pitched another C3 at 7400m (members traversed across, Sherpas down to Cwm and up). Col reached on 28th Sept and on 29th summit bid by Lowe and Culver reached only 100m above Col; Col now this morning abandoned by team because of strong winds. 30th Sept all to BC because of wind even at C2 and some snowfall. 

  On 2nd Oct Nelson with a US Sherpa, Lowe and Culver at C4 to make summit bid but had pulmonary edema on arrival and down sick.

  On 4th Lowe, Culver and Salino of De La Ferriere expedition left C4 together at 9:00 am when wind stopped suddenly. Lowe pulled ahead of others and reached top about 1-1/2 hours ahead of them. [Lowe summited at 12:30 pm and Culver at 2 pm.]

  Lowe reported tricky climbing beyond S Summit so Aprin and Ang Temba took ropes and left Col with De Camp and his 2 Sherpas from Batard expedition 5th Oct at 3:45 am; Aprin fixed ropes below S Summit and Hillary step. French Sherpas and Ang Temba on top 10:30 am, Aprin 10:40 am and De Camp 11:45 am. Aprin and Ang Temba to C2 same day.

  On 7th Oct next summit bid from Col: Lowe and Fuller left Col later than successful climbers and turned back (Lowe not on oxygen to 8100m only, Fuller to 8350-8400m and down because felt lonely, unable to catch up with others). Gibson, Krasnokutsky and Pinzo Sherpa left Col at 5:30 am and were on summit at 2:30 pm, used fixed ropes and moving cautiously with Pinzo carrying extra oxygen for Gibson; she had total of 3 bottles available. Pinzo reaching summit at 12:30 pm? All summiters down to C4 and Lowe and Fuller to C2. Gibson and husband to C2 on 8th and BC 9th Oct. 

  Sherpas up on 9th to C2 and some to C4 on 10th to clear camps. All off mountain on 10th evening and 5 members left BC 11th (others had left on 8th and 9th).


expid: EVER90312
peakid: EVER
year: 1990
route1: SW Face (Bonington rte)
nation: S Korea
leaders: Park Young-Bae
sponsor: Korean Everest Southwest Face Expedition 1990
bcdate: 1990-09-21
smtdate: 1990-10-11
termdate: 1990-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7770m due to bad weather and team exhausted
campsites: BC(21/09,5400m),C1(25/09,6100m),C2(30/09,6400m),C3(07/10,7000m),C4(11/10,7770m),xxx(11/10,7770m)
accidents: None
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Bonington route.
   
  3 members and a Sherpa spent 2 nights in C4 and down on 13th Oct because of wind. Then in BC snow coming and men tired.

  3 members to C3 and C4 only; other members not above C2.


expid: EVER90310
peakid: EVER
year: 1990
route1: W Cwm-W Ridge (to 7500m)
route2: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Tomaz Jamnik
sponsor: Alpe Adria Sagarmatha Expedition 1990
ascent2: 114 w/Fra-USA
countries: Italy
bcdate: 1990-09-05
smtdate: 1990-10-07
smttime: 1310
accidents: Jamnik ill in Kathmandu; Sterni suffered recurrence of last year's vertebrae problem
achievment: 1st married couple to summit
agency: Wilderness Experience
campsites:
  BC(05/09,5400m),C1(10/09,6000m),C2(11/09,6400m),C3A(21/09,7500m),C3B(29/09,7300m),C4(30/09,7900m),Smt(07/10)

routememo:
  C2  in Western Cwm
  1st C3 at top of West Shoulder
  2nd C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at S Col.
   
  21st Sept from Cwm climbed directly to top of shoulder, not in curving line of US 1963; did not go above C3 because several days snowfall brought half-meter fresh snow; strong wind followed and feared danger of avalanches and wind in Hornbein Couloir and also now realized team not strong enough.

  27th Sept changed route to normal route and 1 member slept at Col on 30th Sept hoping to go to summit next day but wind too strong and all down to BC. 5th Oct up to C2 (3 members and 3 Sherpas). 6th Oct from C2 to Col; 1 Sherpa went back, 1 Sherpa at Col in support and 1 Sherpa to top next day with the 3 members; at 4:00 am Stremfeljs, Jeglic and Lhakpa Rita (his 1st high summit) start up. 1:10 pm Mariya and Andrej Stremfelj summit; 1:35 pm Janez Jeglic on top; all down to C3 at 7:00 pm (Lhakpa Rita on down to C2). 

  7th Oct Mazzoleni and Arjun Tamang arrived at Col in evening and 8th reached 8100m (Tamang) and South Summit (Mazzoleni) and turned back because strong wind; no more attempts for top although one Sherpa to C4 to bring down tent on 9th or 10th, but winds so strong he could not pack it.

  BC 15 to 17th Oct by most of team (10 members). Sterni felt (or feared?) recurrence of problem with vertebrae broken last year and left BC 24th Sept, At same time 2 others left: Dr Infanti had to return to work and Petronio found mountain too big.

  Mrs. Stremfelj: remarkable that after so many years, Everest climbed on same day by two married couples.

  Jamnik 26 Oct: no attempt was made to reach Lhotse summit; "When they finished with Everest, that was finish."


expid: EVER90303
peakid: EVER
year: 1990
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Nobuo Kuwahara, Roh Jong-Baek
sponsor: Korea-Japan Joint Expedition to Everest
ascent1: 113 w/Fra
countries: Japan
bcdate: 1990-08-23
smtdate: 1990-10-06
smttime: 0600
termdate: 1990-10-09
campsites: BC(23/08,5400m),C1(31/08,6100m),C2.ABC(07/09,6700m),C3(15/09,7250m),C4(23/09,7890m),Smt(06/10)
accidents: Ang Kami altitude sickness only
achievment: 1st Korean death on Everest
agency: Himalayan Journeys
routememo:
  C1 same as Nepalese army expedition Spring 1990
  C2 high in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at Col.

  1st summit attack from C4 by 3 Koreans, 1 Japanese and 1 Sherpa planned for 11:00 pm 1st Oct. Cancelled by strong wind and team did not leave C4.

  2nd attack 6th Oct. Left C4 00:20 hrs 4 Koreans (Sugiyama who turned back just below S Summit and down to C3) and 2 Sherpas (3 Koreans at summit 6:00 am and Sherpas at 8:00 am). 

  3rd attack by Ham Sung-Hun alone from C4 at 5:00 am at same time as US summiters but not climbing together; Ham going up for photos, not summit. 4:00 pm French descending gave him gloves near S Summit. Another French team saw slide marks down SW Face. Body not seen by time team left BC. Also on 7th Oct, Yanagihara and Nima Rita go up to 8300m to search, taking rucksack for Ham. 

  More members not in summit bids because not enough oxygen. Team left BC 9th Oct.

  Almost all teams switched to S Col route; this "no good" - thinking only of summit but "climbing important"; Japanese and Koreans fixed all rope, worked hard to make route and others came along to use what they had toiled to fix (others teams gave no money for this except for Icefall route).


expid: EVER90302
peakid: EVER
year: 1990
route1: SW Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Jose Luis Zuloaga
sponsor: Basque International Everest Expedition
approach: Jiri->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1990-08-21
smtdate: 1990-10-09
termdate: 1990-10-13
termnote: Abandoned at 8320m due to winds and climbers exhausted
accidents: Gomez altitude sickness and stopped climb; 1 member hit by falling stone but not hurt
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(21/08,5400m),C1(31/08,6100m),C2(07/09,6400m),C3(11/09,7000m),C4(17/09,7700m),C5(09/10,8320m),xxx(09/10,8320m)

routememo:
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 at Bonington C3 on SW Face
  C4 a little below Bonington C4
  C5 same as Bonington C5.

  9th Oct left C5 gear and site but too much wind and camp not pitched. Down to C2. 11 Oct to BC too much wind. No members again to C5 and only Sherpas to C3 and C4 to bring down gear.


expid: EVER90301
peakid: EVER
year: 1990
route1: N Face (Japanese Couloir)
nation: USA
leaders: Mark Hesse
sponsor: 1990 Mount Everest Super Couloir Expedition
countries: Canada
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 1990-08-05
smtdate: 1990-09-18
termdate: 1990-09-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to deep snow
campsites: ChineseBC(05/08,5600m),ABC(10/08,5800m),C1(12/08,5900m),xxx(18/09,7800m)
accidents: Teare stomach trouble prevented his climbing on Everest
routememo:
  C1 at "corner camp" at bottom of West Ridge of Changtse.

  Trying to climb without sleeping bags, etc., but knee-deep to waist deep snow. After C1 established biked into East Rongbuk, skied to Lho La and climbed 3 peaks in area.

  Came down from biv at 7800m beause of prolonged snowfall. Weather good for couple of days, then big storm followed by high winds; brought down BC 27th Sept and left BC 30th. Only 4 members did any climbing on Everest (no climbing required to reach C1 which is on glacier) but other 2 members climbed one or more of the subsidiary peaks, Chenzheng, Guangoning and Lingtren, during acclimatization period.

  Reveley left early because he didn't like the look of Everest and as a doctor, he was helping Spaniards who had fatal avalanche.

  Super Couloir = Japanese and Hornbein Couloir


expid: EVER90308
peakid: EVER
year: 1990
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Pierre Dutrievoz
sponsor: Chomolungma 1990
countries: UK
bcdate: 1990-09-01
smtdate: 1990-10-08
termdate: 1990-10-09
termnote: Abandoned at 8750m due to strong winds and time running out
campsites: BC(01/09,5400m),C1(02/09,6100m),C2(03/09,6400m),C3(14/09,7200m),C4(29/09,7900m),xxx(08/10,8750m)
accidents: Dutrievoz cracked rib in icefall; Meurisse had stroke at Lukla on return
agency: Sherpa Society
routememo:
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at S Col
  High point at S Summit.

  "I had almost the feeling of being at the top so I was happy and sad at the same time" - Pelaudeix on reaching S Summit only.

  1st summit bid by Asselin, Bordet, Cauchy, E Dutrievoz, P Dutrievoz and Pelaudeix and 5 Sherpas who made C4 but could not go higher because of wind and clouds (Bordet did not sleep at Col and Asselin went only 200m above Col and then all down). 

  8th Oct Pelaudeix and Bordet reached S Summit and down towards main summit with 1 Sherpa Phurba and Cauchy to 50m below South Summit. Turned back by strong wind. Left Col at 6:00 am and 1:30 pm reached col between S and Main Summit. 

  No more summit bids because of following days wind became increasingly strong and yaks coming on 10th, had seats on Lukla flight on 15th and Japanese-Korean team had left and were no longer maintaining Icefall route.

  2 members left BC 2nd Oct because they there was no hope of success.


expid: EVER90311
peakid: EVER
year: 1990
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Annie Beghin
sponsor: French Women's Everest Expedition
bcdate: 1990-09-10
smtdate: 1990-10-06
termdate: 1990-10-07
termnote: Abandoned at 8500m due to winds and oxygen regulator failure
campsites: BC(10/09,5400m),C1(15/09,6400m),C2(20/09,7200m),C3(05/10,7900m),xxx(06/10,8500m)
accidents: 1 Sherpa bad headache; 1 member psychosomatic illness
agency: Amtrek
routememo:
  C1 in Western Cwm
  C2 on Lhotse Face
  C3 at S Col
  High point at SE Ridge.

  Did not make a camp at top of icefall: slept there on 14th Sept and next day into Cwm. 17th Sept up to 7200m, site for next camp for acclimatization and down to Cwm camp; then down to BC for rest. 19th Sept Sherpas up to established camp on face on 20th and at Col on 21st while members wait in BC. Sherpas back to BC on 25th. 2nd Oct to C2, waited 3 days in fine but very windy weather; from C2 up on 4th Oct; Veronique, Annie [Dubois from Batard team?] and 2 Sherpas and on first fixed ropes below C3 Annie got sick (stomach trouble) and she down while Veronique and 2 Sherpas to face camp, where Veronique rested 2 hrs and then onto Col with 1 Sherpa. Slept at Col 5/6 Oct night. Sherpa got headache but early 6th Veronique started alone; left with oxygen col at 1:00 am and climbed to 8400m, where oxygen regulator started giving trouble; left oxygen and went on witout oxygen but started getting very cold and fingers begining to freeze so turned back at 8500m, stopped 2 hrs at Col camp and was in BC at 5:00-6:00 that evening; climb finished. 

  Annie Beghin had gone to see her husband at Lhotse BC and Veronique could not make another bid because of wind and no more oxygen left. "I am very sad" and angry about regulator and crying on descent from Col; Annie constantly worried about Pierre.


expid: EVER90304
peakid: EVER
year: 1990
route1: N Face (Japanese Couloir)
nation: Italy
leaders: Giuseppe Pozzoli
sponsor: Himalaya 1990 to Everest
bcdate: 1990-08-24
smtdate: 1990-09-29
termdate: 1990-10-07
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to bad snow conditions and strong winds
campsites: BC(24/08),ABC(01/09,5600m),C1(05/09,6200m),xxx(29/09,7000m)
accidents: None
routememo:
  C1 at base of Japanese Couloir
  High point at Japanese Couloir.

  2 attempts to climb Japanese Couloir: 1st on 18th Sept by 3 members reached 6800m, then snow started falling and down to ABC; 2nd attempt on 28th Sept night after snowfall finished.

  Reached 7000m where snow conditions bad: crested deep snow; 3 members again made this attempt; 29th Sept to C1 to sleep; now winds were strong and yaks arrived BC 7th Oct.


expid: EVER90306
peakid: EVER
year: 1990
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Cesar Perez de Tudela
sponsor: Universidad Complutense Everest 1990
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 1990-08-29
smtdate: 1990-09-12
termdate: 1990-09-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to fatal avalanche (emotional effects)
campsites: ChineseBC(29/08,6080m),ABC(10/09,6500m),xxx(12/09,6900m)
accidents: Doctor had cerebral edema at BC; 3 killed and 2 hurt in avalanche
routememo:
  Chinese BC 28 Aug
  Intermediate
  ABC under Changtse and under North Col.

  Group that had accident were fixing ropes to N Col at 6900m; in group were 5 men Gomez-Menor, Scaldo, 3 Nepalis; Gomez-Menor and Ang Sona were highest fixing ropes and those below did not see how avalanche started but it carried men 200m to crevasse with these 3 lost; fell into very deep crevasse with much snow on top of them; very hard for survivors who saw ropes going into crevasse and they tried to dig; expedition decided to stop climb: snow conditions bad and big emotional distress (could see ropes leading to dead men) and to change route would mean big problem with liaison officer. 

  Left ABC 22 Sept and had to spend 3 days to get injured 2 men (Spaniards deep cut in bottom from ice as and rib broken and had inhaled snow; Chowang Rinzi Sherpa had inhaled snow and pulled knee and ankle ligaments, plus shock). All members to ABC except doctor; only 2 above ABC (those hit by avalanche on 1st day venturing above ABC).

  Official documents say fatal accident occurred on 14th because of confusion.


expid: EVER90309
peakid: EVER
year: 1990
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Marc Batard
sponsor: French International Everest-Lhotse Expedition
ascent1: 112 w/USA,113 w/SKor
countries: Belgium
bcdate: 1990-09-04
smtdate: 1990-10-05
othersmts: Batard to Xixabangma for acclimatization (reached 7600m)
campsites: BC(04/09,5300m),C1(08/09,6100m),C2(09/09,6400m),C3(13/09,7300m),C4(23/09,7900m),Smt(05-06/10)
accidents: Only Batard frostbite nose and finger which will heal
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Members reached S Col 18th Sept but slept in for first time on 23rd. Batard by helicopter to Gorak Shep 19th Sept and started up from BC 22nd and slept in C2. 23rd to S Col but windy and snowing and down to BC same day. [1st summit attempt by Tournaire, Janin, Pelle, Decamp failed at 8300m on 22nd].

  2 days to Lobuche to meet Italian research group there and they tested him and decided to collaborate about physchological testing and Batard use of radio. 27th back to BC. 29th Batard left BC to climb direct to top in one night and day; this day others were at S Col now (Christine Janin, Erik Decamp, Pascal Tournaire, Bernard Germain, Bruno Gallet, Olivier Besson and 4 Sherpas). Batard reached C2 by 9:30 pm but windy and cloudy so at 11:00 pm decided to wait in C2. At 3:00 am awoke and started up at 3:15 am; at 7000m Decamp told him by radio weather too bad and Batard turned around and was back in BC same day.

  3rd Oct Batard from BC to C2 for 2 nights waiting for strong wind to ease, as it did on full moon day/night of 4th Oct. From C3 at 6:30 am on 5th and on summit 4:50 pm of 5th. Christine and Pascal also from C3 at 2:30 pm and Batard met them at Col and (Pascal just above Col); Christine on oxygen from Col, Pascal from 7500m and all 3 to summit together. 3 stayed at top together 10 mins in very cold and windy weather. Batard began digging snow cave 2m below summit on west side. Batard very tired at 8500m and above and at 3:00 pm started freezing fingers and nose (was not on oxygen at all) and "when I reached the top I was not so good." 1 hr to dig cave and was inside 6:00 to 6:30 pm; "too much risk, is better to go back"; returned to Col at 9:00 pm and stayed there that night. 6th Oct at 7 am left Col and 4:30 pm at Lobuche.

  6th Oct Annie Dubois tried for summit (with Veronique Perillat of Annie Beghin's team) from C2 but turned back after 2 hrs [from below C3].

  6th Oct "Babu" Sherpa who had waited at Col for Batard for Lhotse, went to Everest summit alone at 9:00 am with oxygen.

  Batard wants to try Everest-Lhotse next spring or autumn of necessary and use oxygen from 8500m to top and digging cave (but not sleeping or probably not descending). Disappointed not to have succeeded in this time, but "I am prudent."

  One-legged member LeBissonnais reached S Col.

  Batard did not oxygen at any time on ascent or descent.
   
  Regarding [physical] quarrel with Sherpani, see Batard's "declaration" in his Everest spring 1991 file.


  Batard - 17 Dec 1990

  "Huyberechts claimed he failed to reach summit because all tents taken down, but actually this not true - he was too slow - he has since retracted this claim."


  Ministry of Tourism - 5 Oct 1990

  Top 11:00 am today
  - Nawang Thile Sherpa, 40
  - Sonam Tendu Sherpa, 29
  - Erik Decamp, 36 started at 3:00 am from C4, stayed on top 1 hour

  On top 4:30 pm 
  - Batard, 38, mountain guide 
  - Pascal Tournaire, 31 
  - Christine Janin, doctor, 33


  Batard - 18 Sept 1990

  Returned from Xixabangma 17 Sept without success; reached 7600m and then too much snow (all other members stayed at Xixa).

  Batard goes by helicopter from KTM tomorrow morning to BC. His team of Sherpas, Decamp and Michel Pollet have made the way to the Col already and "if the weather is good I start up after tomorrow. I need 3 days of good weather." If successful, goes quickly to KTM and Paris.

  Batard had gone to Xixabangma for acclimatization reached 7600m there and left Spaniards before their climb finished; arrived KTM 17 Sept to go to KTM.


expid: EVER90305
peakid: EVER
year: 1990
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Laurence De La Ferriere
sponsor: French Everest Expedition
ascent1: 111 w/USA,114 w/USA
countries: Netherlands, Switzerland, USA
bcdate: 1990-08-28
smtdate: 1990-10-04
smttime: 1445
campsites: BC(28/08,5300m),C1(03/09,6100m),C2(05/09,6400m),C3(12/09,7200m),C4(19/09,7900m),Smt(04,07/10)
accidents: None
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col (placed camps only, slept in on 20th).

  Strong winds prevented earlier summit success. De Bos to C4 20th to make summit bid but wind too strong to try.

  On 29th Muller and De La Ferriere at C4 for summit bid (many others there too from other expeditions) and again winds sent them down next day.

  1st Oct 5 members in C4 and also down on 2nd. 

  3rd Oct Salino in C4 and on top 4th; left C4 at 9:00 am, 3 hrs after wind stopped, and climbed to left on rock, avoiding deep snow and cornices; on top 2:45 pm. Salino slept in C4 (US's Lowe to C2 direct). Oct 4th summiters ran out of oxygen about S Summit in descent. 

  On Oct 6th at C4: Roches (2), Pivots (2), Desez and De Bos, Dorje and Ang Phurba from Rolwaling for summit bid. Annie Pivot waited near S Summit for her husband to go to top; 2 Sherpas also today without oxygen (used it previous night). At S Summit in descent met Korean who died (De Bos gave rucksack with oxygen mask and Bernard Roche gave gloves and Batard's Belgian member and A Pivot). Annie Pivot stayed at C4 that night using oxygen for 1st time; too much wind on 8th and finally down; on 9th and no more attempts.

  Both Roches flew from Col at 4:00 pm (not from summit because wind too strong) and arrived at BC by double parapente in 15 minutes.


  Chevalier & Muller

  Left BC 2 Oct and by helicopter to KTM 4th. Were on 2nd team, had made several attempts and reached Col but not above because winds - all at BC C2 and above to C4.

  De La Ferriere at BC because tired after summit bid 29th. Lost 2 precious days in big argument with Batard over use of satellite. This may have cost her becoming 1st French woman atop Everest.


expid: HIMW90401
peakid: HIMW
year: 1990
route1: SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Park Dong-Seol
sponsor: Keimyung University Alpine Club Himalchuli Winter Exped 1991
ascent1: 4th
bcdate: 1990-11-18
smtdate: 1990-12-19
smttime: 1500
termnote: Abandoned at 7540m due to length of route and bad weather
accidents: None
achievment: 1st Korean ascent of West Summit
agency: Sallyan
campsites:
  BC(18/11,4900m),C1(27/11,5750m),C2(29/11,6350m),C3(04/12,6750m),C4(07/12,7240m),C5(08/12,7500m),Smt(19/12)

routememo:
  C1 at east Pokhari
  C2 on SW Ridge
  C3 on SW Ridge
  C4 on SW Ridge
  C5 on SW Ridge.

  Ridge very long from C1 and sometimes steep snow face. Fixed 1800m rope BC to C5. Did not go beyond W Peak because long route to E Peak with many dangerous crevasses. 19th Dec 3 members started from C3 and reached C5 at 2:00 pm and Lee Suk-Hwan alone to W Peak which he reached 3:00 pm. Other 2 stopped at C5 because of strong wind. They saw route from C5 and W Peak so long and dangerous and needed 2 more camps to reach E Peak. Now bad weather: snowfalling so decided to abandon idea of going to East (Main) Peak.


expid: MAKA90401
peakid: MAKA
year: 1990
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge (to 7400m)
route2: W Pillar (to 7300m)
nation: Poland
leaders: Krzysztof Wielicki
sponsor: Polish International Expedition to Makalu
countries: Belgium
bcdate: 1990-12-05
smtdate: 1990-12-20
termdate: 1991-01-11
termnote: W Pillar route abandoned at 7300m due to winds
accidents: None
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(05/12,4800m),C1(08/12,5600m),C2(04/12,6500m),C3(20/12,7400m),xxx(20/12,7400m); WPillar.Biv1(27/12,6100m),Biv2(28/12,6600m),Biv3(04/01,7300m),xxx(05/01,7300m)

routememo:
  BC west of Barun Pokhari
  C1 on normal route for acclimatization
  C2 on normal route for acclimatization
  C3 on normal route for acclimatization
  Biv 1 on West Pillar
  Biv 2 on West Pillar
  Biv 3 on West Pillar.

  Acclimatized on normal route to Makalu La, where wind so strong tent probably destroyed soon after departure on 21 Dec. Then Wielicki went to pillar alone; from BC 27th Dec started 2:00 am from glacier, 11:00 am from bottom of pillar and biv at 6100m because of heavy load at 4:00 pm at good protected place. 28th Dec 9:00 am up again reached 6600m at 2 pm when started to snow. 29th Dec down from 6600m to BC. 2nd summit attempt again by Wielicki alone on 4th Jan. Started from BC at 3:00 am and 3:00 pm reached 2nd biv at 6600m, where had left tent. 5th Jan to mixed rock and snow, very long and complicated, dangerous and difficult in descent; 4:00 pm reached just below 7300m where there were many ropes and therefore easier; couldn't pitch tent in strong wind. Had planned to go to top and return to 3rd biv in same day; so down to BC on 5th with clear skies but impossible winds. No problem of technical difficulty but winds getting stronger so no use waiting longer. Left BC 11th Jan after decision to quit on 9th or 10th Jan.


expid: AMAD90403
peakid: AMAD
year: 1990
route1: SW Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Carol Gordon McDermott
ascent1: 81st
approach: Based out of Thyangboche
bcdate: 1990-12-02
smtdate: 1990-12-04
termdate: 1990-12-05
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak and Lobuche East
campsites: BC(02/12,Thyangboche),C1(03/12,5800m),Smt(04/12),Biv(04/12,6600m)
accidents: Minor frostbite only
routememo:
  3rd Dec from Thyangboche to C1 5800m.
  4th Dec to summit and biv at 6600m (very cold night with no biv equipment)
  5th Dec to Thyangboche.

  Passed US expedition who were at C1 on 3rd Dec and at C2 on 5th and "had Cadillac expedition"; McDermott was entirely alone from Thyangboche to Thyangboche.

  Noble and Anker of US expedition stated on 18 Dec 1990: "McDermott spent night of his ascent, 4th Dec in US C2 getting warmed by sleeping between Anker and Bateman; McDermott would have frozen if he hadn't; had big blisters on his toes from frostbite (but not black); was not warmly dressed and had no gear with him at all; had tea in US C1 on his way up mountain; made use of others to do his "solo" climb." 

  Norwegian-Swedish team saw a soloist on summit.

  Ascent was illegal.


expid: AMAD90401
peakid: AMAD
year: 1990
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Norway
leaders: Jan Westby
sponsor: Norwegian-Swedish Himalayan Expedition
ascent1: 80th
countries: Sweden
bcdate: 1990-11-20
smtdate: 1990-12-02
termdate: 1990-12-07
campsites: BC(20/11,4500m),ABC(27/11,5300m),C1(30/11,5826m),C2(02/12,6100m),C3(01/12,6400m),Smt(02/12)
accidents: Nothing serious
achievment: 1st Scandinavian ascent in Himalayas in winter
agency: Himalayan Explorers
routememo:
  BC near Mingbo village
  C1 at start of ridge
  C2 by 2nd team only
  C3 after mushroom ridge by 1st team who went to top 2 Dec.

  Started for ABC on 30th Nov and from C1 on 1st Dec. From C1 is where climbing starts; C3 at usual C3 site and reached at midnight after 18 hrs on 1st Dec by first team. 2nd team on same day reached only at 6000m and bived there, reached 6100m on 2nd Dec and established C2, and on 3rd started up but one member not feeling well at 6200m and both turned backand slept at C2 with summiters on 3rd Dec. 

  1st team had underestimated length of route above C1: mountain more difficult than expected. No fixed ropes, no garbage, no Sherpas. Left BC 7th Dec. 

  Westby reached C1, decided against going higher; least experienced member.


expid: AMAD90402
peakid: AMAD
year: 1990
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: John Reed
sponsor: Utah Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 82nd
bcdate: 1990-11-30
smtdate: 1990-12-08
othersmts: Climbed on Lobuche East from 2 routes for acclimatization
campsites: BC(30/11,4980m),C1(02/12,5826m),C2(04/12,6000m),C3(05/12,6200m),Smt(08/12)
accidents: None except illness which kept Marjorie Noble in Namche during Ama Dablam climb
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC above Mingbo
  C2 on ridge.

  On 8th Dec Reed was with successful pair at C3 to try for climb; extremely cold (-10 degrees) and windy and climbing in shade and Bateman mildly ill with altitude problems.


expid: ANN190402
peakid: ANN1
year: 1990
route1: N Face
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Darko Berljak
sponsor: Zagreb Mountaineering Expedition - Annapurna Winter 1990
countries: USA
approach: Lete
bcdate: 1990-11-25
smtdate: 1990-12-04
termdate: 1990-12-09
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to route too dangerous without fixed rope
campsites: BC(25/11,4350m),ABC(03/12,5750m),xxx(04/12,6400m)
accidents: None
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at normal North Face site, where sun reached
  ABC at North Face
  High point at top of Dutch Rib.

  From BC to W Face climbed 600m onto a ridge and descended to beginning of W Face on 1 Dec. 2nd Dec 6 members made ABC on N Face at 5750m but near this camp found pegs and boots of an earlier disaster and also falling seracs. Sveticic 2nd Dec to 5200m at bottom of W Face to watch what happens there (where nothing happened - no falling ice or rock and sun on face in afternoon). Planned a camp at 6400m above Dutch Rib on N Face; 4th Dec 2 members went to fix rope at last part of rib and serac field, but big avalanches came down both sides of rib and huge serac fell destroying top section of rib; 100m of ice is hanging above rib. Members ran down mountain (not hurt only afraid - "something like earthquake") and returned to BC. French route had big seracs fall near ABC at 5750m. All now back to BC: not possible to make safe descent via N Face and sent message to Lete for porters to evacuate team and left 9th Dec; that night 40cm new snow fell and had to give boots, etc. to porters and members and Sherpas went ahead to shovel away snow. W Face solo ascent without fixed ropes and in middle section if this face not possible to descend without ropes over this 80 degrees rock which is very smooth and no place to put pitons. BC atmosphere not good with all the plaques to dead climbers.

  Approach march took 3 days from Lete through difficult steep terrain and had to fix rope on W Face. All US members reached 5000m, all others at least 5100-5400m on N Face carrying loads.


expid: MANA90402
peakid: MANA
year: 1990
route1: S Face-W Ridge (Austrian 1972 rte)
nation: France
leaders: Eric Monier
sponsor: Manaslu 1990
bcdate: 1990-12-18
smtdate: 1991-01-06
termnote: Abandoned at 7950m due to frostbite and anoxiya
campsites: BC(18/12,4200m),C1(24/12,5500m),Biv1(03/01,6500m),Biv2(04/01,7300m),xxx(06/01,7950m)
accidents: Monier frostbite (especially right little finger) and apoxia
achievment: 1st solo attempt on Manaslu
agency: Pabil Treks
routememo:
  BC at Tulagi Glacier's side
  C1 above rock wall on glacier
  1st biv
  2nd biv at just below summit plateau in crevasse (protected from wind).

  From Xmas to 3 Jan prolonged snowfall and BC low so did not get well acclimatized. First had to ferry loads himself from camp at 3800m below glacier because porters feared Glacier and left loads here. Monier and 2 Kitchen boys carried loads (arrived lower camp 17th Dec). 21st Dec Monier began climbing 800m rock wall that required 140m of fixed rope added to ropes already there and usable. Planned to go to C2 on 25th Dec, but lousy weather and did not find good route to C2 site at 6500m so left load at 6200m and down to C1 and 26th to BC. Then long period of really bad weather began 28th and lasted till 2 Jan Monier tried for top; reached C1 on 3rd; 4th to 1st biv at 6500m after collecting load at 6200m. 5th 2nd biv at 7300m in crevasse (out of wind) 100m below summit plateau. 6th started 1:30 am and at daylight (7:00 am) reached about 7950m at begining of climb of last tower (at last plateau). Tower begins as snow with it's last 50m rock. Started climbing this snow slope but took off gloves here for a moment and saw finger freezing and realized in unacclimatized state of hallucination (many people with him, talked with old woman who said she was 100,000 yrs old) since 7700m; "my legs would have taken me to top but I was descending and sleeping"; falling asleep so impossible to stop moving to rest. At 7:00 am -50 degrees and wind 80 km/hr, so turned back and descended to 6000m, which reached at 5:00 pm without problem, but unable to continue to C1 because headlamps batteries frozen; fell into crevasse 3m at 5 pm and made biv outside with 2 sleeping bags; now frozen little fingers had big blister and some problem down fixed ropes but began for biv at 8:00 am. Spent 2 hrs in C1 and reached BC at 5:00 pm. Climb finished because of frostbitten hands and feet also getting frozen from Kangchenjunga 1987 frostbite.

  Did not acclimatize by going up to 6500m or so before summit push because felt with moon's change of phase, feared change of weather to the worse, so had no time to do so.

  "Summit was not most important thing - most important was experience of loneliness, of achieving my philosophy of loneliness and this I achieved and am satisfied." Plans to bring small team of 3 or 4 members to Kangchenjunga N Face, perhaps in '93. "I reached my limit climbing alone this time."


expid: AMAD90405
peakid: AMAD
year: 1990
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Fabrizio Rodolfi
sponsor: Winter Himalaya 1990-91 - Expedition to Himalaya
ascent1: 84th,85th
bcdate: 1990-12-14
smtdate: 1990-12-22
campsites: BC(14/12,4550m),C1(18/12,5350m),C2(19/12,5800m),C3(20/12,6000m),C4(21/12,6350m),Smt(22-23/12)
accidents: Nothing serious; one man slight frostbite on finger
achievment: 1st summiter with an artificial arm?
agency: Trekking International
routememo:
  BC near BC (normal site).

  Had many camps because of taking a lot of equipment and slow progress on bare rock (problem for making water with no snow). Ridge is not very difficult but continuously "serious." Rodolfi managed with his one artificial arm up fixed ropes.


expid: CHOY90401
peakid: CHOY
year: 1990
route1: W Ridge-W Face from S
nation: Italy
leaders: Kurt Walde
bcdate: 1990-12-04
smtdate: 1991-01-08
termdate: 1991-01-19
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to wind, depletion of food supplies
campsites: BC(04/12,5070m),Dep(04/12,5950m),C1(16/12,6750m),C2(07/01,7250m),xxx(08/01,7500m)
accidents: None
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Lunag (below Kangchung)
  Depot only, on moraine on east side of Gyabrag Glacier (east of "c" of Glacier)
  C2 below serac before normal C3
  C2 at bottom of NW Face
  High point on NW Face.

  Wind a strange kind in Dec with unexpected very strong bursts out of calmness; could not put camp along main trail to Nangpa La because Tibetan officials passing that way. Put only deposit at 5450m under rocks for fear Tibetans would take any visable tent; came here on acclimatization climb on 7 Dec and again on 15 Dec. 16 Dec proceeded to C1 site which was 100m below normal C3 site and where made snow and left cache cave. 17 Dec back to BC because not yet acclimatized. Left BC 23 Dec and slept at C1 25 and 26 Dec, planning summit push from here, but this was impossible because of wind. Waited a day and wind still blowing and made descent difficult back to BC on 27th. Left BC again with sirdar (who had been with him on 23 Dec trip) 4 Jan. 5 Jan to depot site; 6 Jan rested. 7 Jan Walde alone to 7250m below normal C4 at end of big serac at beginning of NW Face. 8 Jan started early in morning in snowstorm (very strong wind) and turned back at 7500m and spent night in new cave at 6750m where had had tent at C1. 9 Jan down to BC. 15 Jan both men left BC (now no people on trail) but got only to 5700m, little beyond Nangpa La, where slept and 16th went only to 6800m, saw storm clouds coming and turned back and climb finished. Left BC 19 Jan; no food or no money to buy food again.

  "Incredibly long way" from BC and depot - maybe 20 km.

  Total at BC: Walde, two sirdars and cook; LO and cook stayed at BC, sirdar only on glacier, did no real climbing.


expid: MANA90401
peakid: MANA
year: 1990
route1: NE Face
nation: UK
leaders: Ron Rutland
sponsor: British Winter Manaslu Expedition
bcdate: 1990-11-24
smtdate: 1990-12-06
termdate: 1990-12-10
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to avalanche danger
campsites: BC(24/11,4200m),C1(01/12,4800m),C2(04/12,5600m),xxx(06/12,6000m)
accidents: None
agency: Atlas
routememo:
  BC at higher normal site, safe and running water and 2 shelters
  C2 at Naike Col in snowhole in deep snow
  High point at serac band.

  Had to wade through 5m snow to get to C1; high point was in area between C2 and C3 where most people get killed and "you could see why" with serac band there. All 6 were in C2 on 6th Dec and 2 went up that day pushing route and had fixed one section; snow was even 2m deep on slope they had to cross; turned back at 6000m because of avalanche danger down couloir had to be crossed. Left BC 10 Dec.


expid: ANN190401
peakid: ANN1
year: 1990
route1: S Face
nation: USA
leaders: Kenneth Reville
sponsor: 1990 American Annapurna I Winter Expedition
bcdate: 1990-11-21
smtdate: 1990-12-07
termdate: 1990-12-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to route difficulty and lack of motivation
othersmts: Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak)
campsites: BC(21/11,4300m),C1(28/11,5150m),C2(03/12,5560m),C3(06/12,6200m),xxx(07/12,6800m)
accidents: None
agency: Yangrima
routememo:
  BC in Annapurna Sanctuary (normal site)
  C2 at bottom of face, at top of icefall
  High point at South Face.

  Quit on 7th because tired and cold and motivation level was extremely low; had some snowfall that also discouraged them; extremely difficult technically at mushrooms: "overhanging cauliflower."


expid: AMAD90404
peakid: AMAD
year: 1990
route1: W Face up; SW Ridge down
nation: USA
leaders: Chris Warner
sponsor: American Expedition to Ama Dablam
ascent1: 83rd
bcdate: 1990-12-07
smtdate: 1990-12-21
smttime: 1115
termdate: 1990-12-22
othersmts: Island Peak
campsites: BC(07/12,4600m),C1(16/12,5250m),Biv1(18/12),Biv2(19/12,6000m),Biv3(20/12,6500m),Smt(21/12)
accidents: Warner slight frostbite fingers
agency: Himalayan Treks (Him Treks)
routememo:
  BC   at normal site abve Mingbo
  C1   at base of West Face
  Biv1 (even with normal C2)
  Biv2 (lower than normal C3).

  After establishing BC, went to Island Peak to acclimatize. 18th Dec 2:00 am Warner and Dunmire left C1 for summit: took 4-1/2 hrs going to left of rock band immediately above C1 to reach base of route. Climbed up rib in center of W Face and biv 100ft above big orange rock after pretty steep and unconsolidated rock mixed with bare rock and same ice pitches. Biv at 5:30 pm in platform they carved out of ice and snow. 19th Dec climbed to top of seracs in technical climbing and biv 20th Dec climbed through rock band to right side of Ama Dablam. 21st Dec cold morning and late start about 9:00 am and on top at 11:15 am and on down to C2 at 9:30 pm; no one in C2 but Americans had told about food (lasagna dinners) and fuel they had left there and Italians had suggested use of their big tent. 22nd Dec to BC. Had beautiful weather fixed no ropes. Biv gear included Bible, biv tent and sleeping bags.


expid: CHOY91102
peakid: CHOY
year: 1991
route1: W Ridge-W Face from S
nation: France
leaders: Alain Hantz
sponsor: Provence Himalaya - to Cho Oyu
ascent1: 80th
bcdate: 1991-04-01
smtdate: 1991-04-22
campsites: BC(01/04,5400m),C1(06/04,5900m),Biv(21/04,7100m),Smt(22/04)
accidents: Gonnet altitude sickness only
agency: Mandala Trekking
routememo:
  BC  little north of true Dzasampa
  ABC just south of "U" West Khumbu Schneider Map
  C1  just below serac at start of face.

  1st C1 at Pt 6448m on Schneider map, but it was destroyed by wind and then new one pitched at 6700m. Tried for summit from this C1, taking tent and pitching it at 7100m on face at top of serac; from 7100m went direct up face and fixed much fixed rope, joining normal route at 7850m and continued 22nd to summit in strong wind pushing summiters to true summit. 22nd Jean Luis Meunier reached 7200m and Berthaud and Du Puoy reached 8000m and turned back tired. Had lost much time trying to find route and with many tents destroyed in one week of fierce wind (which blew away loose snow and packed it hard). 22nd very clear but by 3:00 pm clouds coming up from S Face and obscured Everest summit.

  Brazilian named Sergio appeared and joined their climb, but moved more slowly than French and stayed on normal route on 22nd; he came from Nepal, had no permit and was alone.


expid: CHOY91103
peakid: CHOY
year: 1991
route1: W Ridge-W Face from S
nation: Brazil
leaders: Sergio Beck
ascent1: 81st
bcdate: 1991-04-06
smtdate: 1991-04-22
campsites: BC(06/04),ABC(11/04,5960m),C1(13/04,6100m),C2(18/04,6700m),C3(21/04,7100m),Smt(22/04)
accidents: Numb toes from cold; slipped 100m on Apr 19 but not hurt
routememo:
  BC  before Nangpa La
  ABC camp French 2nd ABC at foot of mountain
  C1  at French camp site
  C2  at French camp site
  C3  at French camp site.

  Beck went to Cho Oyu because easiest 8000er. Had only $1000 from entire stay in Nepal. Followed normal route almost all the way. Went to true summit as did French.

  Beck was entirely alone until he met up with French expedition; did not even have yaks to BC.

  Unauthorized climb; did not apply for permit because couldn't afford one.


expid: AMAD91104
peakid: AMAD
year: 1991
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Thomas Bol
sponsor: 1991 American Khumbu Himal Expedition to Ama Dablam
bcdate: 1991-04-03
smtdate: 1991-04-13
termnote: Abandoned at 6475m due to difficult ice, lack of time
campsites: BC(03/04,4600m),ABC(07/04,5365m,C1(10/04,5840m),C2(11/04,6100m),C3(12/04,6400m),xxx(13/04,6475m)
accidents: None
agency: Above the Clouds
routememo:
  See Evan Smith account. On 13th tried to summit, got 250 vertical feet above C3, struck really hard, brittle water ice at 50 degrees instead of expected snow cover.


expid: AMAD91101
peakid: AMAD
year: 1991
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Paul Thorndike
sponsor: Mexican-American Ama Dablam Expedition 1991
countries: Canada, Mexico
bcdate: 1991-03-13
smtdate: 1991-03-29
termdate: 1991-04-06
termnote: Abandoned at 6036m due to bad weather, lack of time
campsites: BC(13/03,4600m),ABC(15/03,5427m),C1(19/03,5793m),C2(29/03,6036m),xxx(29/03,6036m)
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC at Mingbo
  High point at C2.

  Left BC 6th April. Mexicans arrived in Nepal very late, reached BC but did no climbing, says trekking agent.

  According to American Evan Smith, Mexicans were refused permision to climb by LO as not being on membership list. Deepak here says it was because there was no gear for them.

  Team climbed mostly if not entirely on Irish and other Americans fixed lines.


expid: AMAD91103
peakid: AMAD
year: 1991
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Evan Smith
sponsor: 1991 American Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 1991-03-24
smtdate: 1991-04-12
termdate: 1991-04-13
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to bad weather, lack of time
campsites: BC(24/03,4600m),ABC(27/03,5365m),C1(29/03,5840m),C2(10/04,6100m),C3(12/04,6400m),xxx(12/04,6400m)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC  at Mingbo (low site becauase no water above)
  ABC at traditional site for ABC
  C1  at traditional site for C1
  C2  at traditional site for C2 on SW Ridge
  C3  at traditional site for C3 at hanging glacier
  High point at 6400m at C3.

  25th March saw begining of 1st of snowstorm with wind that flattened tents at BC and almost decided to go to Pangboche but instead set up mountain tents; this on 25th was worst of the 5 serious storms in night. 31st weather fine, then threatening, then 4:30 pm started snowing heavily and strong wind. 2 members took loads to C2 and had terrible time getting to C1 at 9:30 pm completely exhausted. Then followed more carries to C2 but not occupied/slept in till 10 April because of reported snowfalls. C2 occupied on 16th by Harrington, Moriarty and Falvey of Irish expedition. 11th because very windy high up and Harrington and Falvey down to BC (were cold and exhausted). Finlay and Schifrin up to C2 from C1 while Moriarty stayed at C2 that day and all 4 of Bol American team arrived at C2. 12th much colder yet and all 7 in C2 started up for C3 with good progress initially, but technical problem made movement slow and arrived after 7:00 pm. 13th Bol American members left early going up. Finley not strength to go up. Schifrin ready to summit with Moriarty when Bol American team returned to C3 with decision that impossible to get to top without night out because of difficult ice. So all descended, with Finley and Schifrin to C1 that day in order to clear that camp next day.

  Cleared away a lot of Thorndike trash while entirely cleared all their own.


expid: PUMO91101
peakid: PUMO
year: 1991
route1: SE Face-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Josu Feijoo
sponsor: Spanish Pumori Expedition Spring 1991
ascent1: 64th
bcdate: 1991-04-03
smtdate: 1991-04-25
smttime: 1250
campsites: BC(03/04,5300m),C1(20/04,6150m),C2(23/04,6500m),Smt(25/04)
accidents: Some slight frostbite
routememo:
  BC south of small lake below big lake
  C1 at top of a buttress
  C2 just before col on East Ridge.

  Feijoo started for top at 3:30 am with other 2 but after 1 hour turned back to C2 because going too slowly. Others on top 12:50 pm in clear weather until just before summit, when became cloudy. Most days clouds came at noon and sometimes small snowstorms (from 3 to 20 April). Feijoo not strong and only 2 men to fix ropes, which they did alternate days. Reached C1 site 17th April.

  Other 2 members arrived BC on 15th April and reached C2 23 April, but did not try for summit.


expid: AMAD91102
peakid: AMAD
year: 1991
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Ireland
leaders: Con Jude Moriarty
sponsor: Irish Ama Dablam Expedition 1991
ascent1: 86th
bcdate: 1991-03-13
smtdate: 1991-04-04
smttime: 1530
termdate: 1991-04-08
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (by Farrell and Shea)
accidents: Corrigan extreme fatigue; Murphy frostbite (will heal); all had stomach trouble
agency: Sherpa Society
campsites:
  BC(13/03,4570m),ABC(15/03,5240m),C1(17/03,5826m),C2(20/03,5950m),Biv1(03/04,6100m),Biv2(04/04,6250m),C3(12/04,6400m),Smt(04/04)

routememo:
  BC  at normal site above
  ABC before ridge narrows
  C1  at point 5826m on NGS Map
  C2  at Black Tower (usual C2 site)
  Biv at top of Mushroom Ridge by Murphy
  High point at fixed C3.

  Corrigan and Murphy made all the camps while Farrell and Shea climbed Island Peak to top. After C2 2 members made down to BC to meet others, then it snowed 24th and 25th. On 27th Murphy and Moriarty left BC but sick at C1 and down to BC on 28th. 28th other 2 members went up and reached above C2 on 3rd and ran into storm and back at BC on 5th. Corrigan and Murphy left BC 30th and in C2 in 31st and stayed there 2 nights with another snowstorm. 2nd both left C2 upwards and bived in snow cave already there at 6100m on most difficult terrain (had biv bag). 3rd continued fixing route and another biv on top of Mushroom Ridge at 20,500 ft. 4th Corrigan breathless and snow at end of fixed ropes, so down to BC same day while Murphy up to top alone (left 2nd biv on 8:30 am and on top at 3:30 pm and down the head wall to Ama Dablam glacier in darkening night and bived at 22,000 ft. Got frostbite on 2 toes of left foot during night. 5th to C1 and 6th to BC. Snowed on 6th morning, final descent miserable. Left BC 8th April by helicopter for KTM.

  Other 4 climbers on the way to C2 to day hoping for summit via a biv with top on 11th, said Murphy and Corrigan. 

  Moriarty's account of later activities: 

  7th April - all at BC.

  8th April - Murphy and Corrigan left in helicopter; Moriarty and Shea left BC and arrived at C1; Falvey and Farrell also.

  9th April - Shea and Farrell down with stomach trouble (which plagued teams). Moriarty with Sue Harrington of Evan Smith team crossed ridge and made C2 but got into terrible storm and back to C1; Falvey stayed at C1 [stomach trouble?].

  10th April - much snow but these 3 got to C3.

  11th April - Falvey and Harrington to BC; Moriarty at C2; Schifrin and Finley and 4 of Bulgarian team also arrived at C2.

  12th April - Moriarty, Finley, Schrifin to C3 with 4 of Bol American team with Moriarty in biv sack.

  13th April - Route above C3 very little snow; Bol American team went up above C3 but Moriarty and 2 other Americans did not try; had too little supplies for bid and too far from top. Moriarty decided climb finished and was back in BC same day and BC had been cleared that day.

  14th April - BC to Namche for Moriarty to join other members.


expid: AMAD91105
peakid: AMAD
year: 1991
route1: NE Face (to 6000m)
route2: SW Ridge (to 6600m)
nation: USA
leaders: David Breashears
sponsor: Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: France, Switzerland
bcdate: 1991-04-16
smtdate: 1991-05-01
termdate: 1991-05-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to lateness in the day and member's exhaustion
campsites: NE-Face.BC(16/04,5087m),xxx(21/04,6000m); SW-Ridge.BC(27/04,4500m),C1(30/04,5950m),xxx(01/05,6600m)
accidents: Breashears hepatitis
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  1st BC at base of North Ridge at point 5087m on National Geographic map
  2nd BC at Mingbo SW Ridge
  High point on West Face via SW Ridge by all 4 members.

  Climbed on the lower part of NE Face 1000m and put in fixed ropes. Then decided seracs had grown since Kennedy and Buhler had been there 1985 and were now too dangerous. So 21 and 23 April decided to abandon route and ask permission to change to SW Ridge. 

  Took down ropes and on 26th April turned around to Mingbo which reached 27th. 30th started up and reached 5950m. 1st May to 6600m at 3:30 pm; couldn't get back to camp if to top that afternoon and clouds building so back to C1 at 8:00 pm. Now very tired and had gotten very high and decided to abandon climb and down to BC on 2nd. Left BC 3rd. Filmed to high point (by David despite illness).


expid: AMAD91106
peakid: AMAD
year: 1991
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Angelo Giovanetti
sponsor: Ama Dablam 1991 Trentino Expedition
bcdate: 1991-05-10
smtdate: 1991-05-25
termdate: 1991-05-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to bad weather and dangerous conditions
campsites: BC(10/05,4500m),C1(15/05,5800m),xxx(25/05,6400m)
accidents: None
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at low site because no water higher
  C1 on SW Ridge
  High point at SW Ridge all 3 members.

  11th May reached 5400m and dumped loads 16th May explored ridge 6000m. No snow or ice on 1st section and 17th down to BC. 21st May 1st attempt for non-stop summit push and reached 6600m and then thunderstorm came and back to C1 and next day weather not good and on down to BC on 22nd. 

  24th another summit bid, climbed all day and night and 7:00 am 25th at 6400m, at bottom of a ridge stopped by bad ice like sugar into which cannot fix pitons so down to BC. If not this problem would have reached top in 4 hrs. Route was in very dangerous condition with much bare rock or bad ice. 9:00 pm 25th reached BC having cleared C1. Waited one extra day but weather bad and not time to wait long: had fixed flights from Lukla on 1 June and from Nepal 5 June.


expid: CHOY91105
peakid: CHOY
year: 1991
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: Greece
leaders: Ioannis Konstantinou
ascent1: 84th
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1991-04-19
smtdate: 1991-05-08
campsites: BC(19/04,4600m),ABC(21/04,5700m),C1(23/04,6200m),C2(27/04,6800m),C3(07/05,7300m),Smt(08/05)
accidents: 3 Greeks frostbite which will heal; 3 altitude sickness
achievment: 1st Greeks above 8000m
agency: Trekking International
routememo:
  9 May very severe storm descending from C3. One man snow blind and some frostbite in very cold and windy weather and tents zippers didn't close, so sleeping bags covered with powder snow.

  2 members to ABC, got altitude sickness and left after days to ABC.

  Ruiz and 2 from Swiss Eiselin group reached top before Greek group (from and to C2 on 8th). 

  Greek party to true summit and so did the other, whose footprints Greek followed. Mtn covered in snow while going up, but bare rock down.


expid: CHOY91101
peakid: CHOY
year: 1991
route1: NW side from S
nation: USA
leaders: David Houchin
sponsor: American Cho Oyu Expedition 1991
bcdate: 1991-03-20
smtdate: 1991-04-08
termdate: 1991-04-11
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to bad snow conditions
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Ganesh Himal
campsites:
  BC(20/03,5200m),Biv1(30/03,5400m),Biv2(01/04,5660m),Biv3(02/04,5660m),Biv4(07/04,6000m),xxx(08/04,6100m)

routememo:
  BC  at true site of Kangchung
  Biv at true site of Dzasampa
  Biv south of Nangpa La
  Biv where Gyabrag Glacier turns south
  Biv at standard ABC
  High point on West Face.

  Interested to consider climbing face east of "pa" in Nangpa Glacier of Schneider map, but after arrival at BC, found face was all blue ice which would have been possible to climb but required more equipment (including lots of ice screws) than had with them. Farrar went up on 23rd to make ABC but only 3 hrs from BC they were hit by heavy snowstorm, had to biv and overnight. 1m of snow fell, it continued next day and took party 11 hrs to struggle through 4-5 foot deep snow to BC. Houchin at this time down to Thami to resupply, snowed in at Thami one day and on down to Namche; also had bronchitis. Back to BC 28th. Farrar had limited time and with snow conditions as they were, he left BC on 28th. On 30th Bowen and Houchin and 2 Nepalese porters moved up to place just south of true site of Dzsampa. Stayed there and on 31st moved loads farther up Nangpa Glacier intending to climb either Messner or normal route. 31st again snowed but moved up on 1st (2 Nepalis, not really capable of handling these conditions and sirdar Kippa Sherpa had disappeared, so only 3 Americans now) to 5660m, just below Nangpa La, after deciding not to try Messner's icefall bad snow conditions. Another 4 inches of snow fell on night of 1st-2nd. On 2nd crosse Nangpa La and spent night at 5660m again, this time where Gyabrag Glacier turns south at "U"  of Schneider map. Snowed again this night; had been carrying 35 kg loads and Ron's bad back giving trouble. Saw mountain plastered with snow and evidence of avalanching. Stayed there all of 3 April and that evening decided there was too much snow and would not go further. 4th all 3 men down to BC in one day in trail of a yak train. Sent mailrunner to Thami for Yaks on 5th and they were expected 5 days later.

  On 28 March, yaks carrying resupply were able to get only 1 hr below BC because of deepness of snow.

  On 6th Houchin, Kippa and 2 porters (1 Sherpa and 1 Gurung) went from BC to just below Nangpa La to make another try on mountain. Were stopped by snowstorm 30m below Nangpa La with one tent having been left beind. 7th went around glacier and reached standard ABC at 6000m on face across Gyabrag Glacier from pt. 6600m on Schneider map. 8th Houchin alone went up 100m on face in acclimatization climb in snowy and windy weather and back to camp - stayed in camp during bad weather of next two days and then weather was still bad with snow every day and strong wind at 6000m. Had hoped to go up to standard C1 site on 11th, but when clouds rolled in at 8:30 am, finally abandoned climb. Got back to BC on 12th having had problem with crevasse area south of Nangpa La. Met other member at Namche on 13th.


expid: LOBE91101
peakid: LOBE
year: 1991
route1: W Pillar
nation: USA
leaders: Eric Brand
countries: Nepal
bcdate: 1991-04-26
smtdate: 1991-05-20
smttime: 1700
campsites: BC(26/04,5200m),Biv(04/05,5700m),C2(06/05,5950m),NW-Smt(20/05)
accidents: None
routememo:
  BC between 2 lakes below West Face of Lobuche East at base of rock village 
  Biv1 above south lake on unstable moraine debris above 200m vertical cliff
  C2 on pillars lower angled section.

  From C1 climbed chimney leading to ramps and gullies. 7th May fixed a pitch and rested a day or 2 at C2. Did a pitch a day because of frequent snowfalls and occasional rest days up series of ramps and 2 large ledges on pillar. Then above ledger pillar goes straight to NW Summit and followed pillar or left side of it. 8 pitches from C2 to beginning of snow at 19,000 ft. On summit push 20th May left C2 at 5:00 am and returned at 9:00 pm.

  Did not cross deep crevasse to true summit. This the only line to true summit directly.


expid: CHOY91107
peakid: CHOY
year: 1991
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: Germany
leaders: Hermann Tauber
ascent1: 86th
countries: Italy
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1991-05-02
smtdate: 1991-05-27
smttime: 1500
termdate: 1991-05-29
campsites: BC(08/05,5000m),ABC(10/05,5780m),C1(17/05,5900m),C2(19/05,6420m),C3(26/05,7000m),Smt(27/05)
accidents: 2 altitude sickness; 2 slight frostbite
routememo:
  BC at road (new site 2-3 hrs further from ABC).

  Beautiful weather on 27th: little wind and clear till 4:00 pm. Left C3 3:00 am 27 May and 1st reached top at 3:00 pm (last summiter on top 4:00 pm) and back to C3 7-9 pm, some very tired and Weisenberger serious altitude sickness. 28 May to ABC. 29 May for Lhasa and flew to KTM 8 May.

  20 May Tauber's hat got brown mark from lightning, which burned metal button on his cap - was on a ridge at 6420m about 2:30 pm.

  Team used 2 Tibetans to C1.


expid: CHOY91104
peakid: CHOY
year: 1991
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: Spain
leaders: Eloy Sanchez Gonzalez
ascent1: 82nd
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1991-04-17
smtdate: 1991-05-08
campsites: BC(17/04,4600m),ABC(21/04,5700m),C1(25/04,6200m),C2(29/04,6800m),C3(08/05,7300m),Smt(08/05)
accidents: 1 member frostbite which will heal; summiters altitude sickness early in climb
routememo:
  Ruiz had been very ill from altitude in early days of expedition and very nearly quit, but kept with it and got very much better. On 8 May left C2 very early and passed Greeks to reach summit and before Greeks did - had left at 4:00 am.


expid: CHOY91106
peakid: CHOY
year: 1991
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Peter Stadler
sponsor: Eiselin Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 83rd,85th
countries: Austria, Germany
bcdate: 1991-04-21
smtdate: 1991-05-08
termdate: 1991-05-17
agency: Mountain Travel
campsites:
  BC(21/04,4800m),ABC(27/04,5350m),C1(29/04,5800m),C2(02/05,6200m),C3(06/05,6800m),C4(07/05,7400m),Smt(08-09/05)

routememo:
  Perfect snow conditions when team was there but lot of new snow fell just after departure. 

  7 May Jezler climbed alpine-style from C2 which he had left on 5 May. 7 May he pitched his own tent 7200m; on 7th to fore-summit at 8000m and down to 7200m. 8th to C1 and 9th BC. He did not go to the true summit because of the fog which he feared to move in.

  Expedition had very strong winds which blew down long tent with 50 kg gear inside - also electrical storm 10th May.


  Alex Bricker 

  Unfortunately we had a deadly accident, one German member, Horst Wasmann is missing on the mountain. Together with a Swiss friend [Zemp], they tried to come down [with 2 Spaniards] under very bad weather-conditions from Camp 4 (7400m) to a lower camp. At the altitude of approx 6400m he fell down to the North-East Face of Cho Oyu. The date of the accident was Saturday, 11th May 1991 at 19:30 Peking Time. 

  [Wasmann was completely disoriented with altitude sickness. Zemp, who was ahead of him, heard him fall. Team search 12th and 13th and found only cap and ski stick.]

accidents:
  5 members frostbitten fingers or toes but probably will heal; 2 altitude sickness; Wasmann fatal fall


expid: ANNS91101
peakid: ANNS
year: 1991
route1: Left side of S Face
nation: New Zealand
leaders: John Madgwick
sponsor: New Zealand Annapurna S Expedition 1991
bcdate: 1991-03-15
smtdate: 1991-03-28
termdate: 1991-04-02
termnote: Abandoned at 5500m due to dangerous icefall
campsites: LowBC(15/03,3375m),BC(18/03,3700m),ABC(26/03,4250m),C1(27/03,5200m),xxx(28/03,5500m)
accidents: None
achievment: 1st New Zealand attempt
agency: Yangrima
routememo:
  Low BC at Kyummu Khola on old flat terminal moraine
  ABC at base of icefall
  High point at snow slopes at left side of South Face.

  Dismissed porters at low BC, 1 hour short proposed BC for climbers but dangerous for laden porters, who had few shoes & there was snow on ground and on west facing faces (knee deep on west side of ridge descending to Lower BC). Very dangerous face. Did acclimatization climbs to 4800m on nearby ridges 20 to 22 March, then snow fall, to ABC 26 March. One night at ABC. Decided to do route on left side of S Face, which has ridge down its middle and thus went up SSW Face and to left of this section of S Face. 28 March rested in heat till 5:00 pm started up at 6:00 pm and climbed up to snow slope at 9:30 am. Now LeSeuer decided didn't want to continue on this face exposed to ice cliffs for 6-8 more hours of climbing - ice cliffs had not fallen while New Zealanders were there but very dangerous potentially. Returned to ABC through icefall which had changed a lot (wouldn't want to be in this icefall in daytime). Reached ABC at 12:30 that night and spent rest of that night in ABC. Reached BC at 8-9 am on 29 March. Left BC 2 April with porters who came up to BC. Arrived KTM today on night bus from Pokhara. 

  Sirdar Chowang Rinzing said he led 2 illegal ascents of Cho Oyu.


expid: BHRI91101
peakid: BHRI
year: 1991
nation: Italy
leaders: Felix Gradstein
sponsor: Lost Ocean Expedition - Bhrikuti Extension
countries: Canada, Norway
agency: Sherpa Society
routememo:
  Did not go to the mountain at all - too busy with geological research.
  No climbing in BC.

  Sarti & Gradstein were interested in going to climb Bhrikuti, but not enough time to spare for 2 days to the mountain, an attempt at climbing & 2 days back to center of geological work, which was their reason for being in the area (and for getting a climbing permit enablimg them to be there).


  Letter from Massimo Sarti - 9 May 1991

  The main reason of the unsuccess was insufficient time. As I told you our mission was scientific so that most of our time was dedicated to that. Our attempt to reach the Brikuti base camp through Narsing Khola failed because of our underestimate of logistic requirements such as food supply, unavailability of water, men support and length of the trip. Brikuti is extremely far away if approached from the SW Ridge.

  On the other hand, our geologic goals were all accomplished with fantastic and unexpected results.


expid: ANN191101
peakid: ANN1
year: 1991
route1: N Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Arthur Haid
sponsor: Tirolean Himalaya Expedition 1991 Annapurna I
countries: Germany
bcdate: 1991-03-30
smtdate: 1991-04-21
termdate: 1991-04-26
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to avalanching and constant snowfall
campsites: BC(30/03,4250m),C1(01/04,5000m),C2(17/04,5600m),xxx(21/04,5900m)
accidents: None
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  High point at Dutch Rib.

  After 1st April much snowfall. 15th April tried to reach C2 together with Germans but 4 men down 50m with small avalanche. 17th made C2 but 19th April more snow for several days so on 22nd decided to give up after snow once again in afternoon of 21st. Now no time left for success - avalanching, strong wind at high altitudes and waist deep snow where snow piled up by wind. All members to C2 except Canal who had to leave early. Left BC 26th and trekked through Manang.


expid: DHA191102
peakid: DHA1
year: 1991
route1: W Face Center (snow slope above SW Pillar)
nation: USSR
leaders: Kazbek Valiev
sponsor: Dhaulagiri 1991 Kazakhstan Himalaya Expedition
ascent1: 48th,49th
approach: Myagdi Khola
bcdate: 1991-04-02
smtdate: 1991-05-10
smttime: 1000
termdate: 1991-05-17
accidents: Dedi broken hand
agency: Everest Trekking
campsites:
  BC(02/04,3600m),C1(05/04,4700m),C2(12/04,5400m),C3(21/04,5700m),C4(28/04,6200m),C5(04/05,6800m),C6(09/05,7500m),Smt(10,13/05)

routememo:
  BC near Puchhar.

  Most difficult section from 5500m to 6200m: 80 degrees (6+ grade) bare rock - fixed ropes all the route from C1 to C5; some avalanches from C4 area, but dry snow and not big avalanches (this when new snowfell). More difficult rock climbing than Lhotse S Face, which mixed rock and ice and higher than Dhaulagiri - very strong winds and very cold.

  Dedi's hand broken when he was moving rock to make C1 site; he stayed at BC. In difficult rock section near C1, he fell several times but was attached to fix rope and fell only few meters and not hurt.

  Summit teams: 
    10 May - left C4 from 8:00 to 9:00 am; very fast very strong
    climbers on summit from 10:00 to 11:00 am, returned to C6 1:30 pm.
   
    13 May - left C6 at 7:00 am, on summit from 11:00 to 12:00 am, 
    returned to C6 3:00 pm and C5 7:00 pm.

  Expedition left BC 17 May.

  Route: W Face Center to snow slope above SW Pillar.


expid: MANA91101
peakid: MANA
year: 1991
route1: NE Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Franco Dellatorre
sponsor: Scarpuscioni Manaslu Expedition
bcdate: 1991-03-10
smtdate: 1991-04-06
termdate: 1991-04-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6415m due to continuing dangerous snowfall
campsites: BC(10/03,4470m),C1(19/03,5460m),C2(28/03,5780m),C3(30/03,6400m),xxx(06/04,6415m)
accidents: Bay altitude sickness only (at 5000m); Dawa also at 6415m
routememo:
  BC at normal site of a low BC
  C3 on NE Face
  High point at NE Face.

  Snowed 1st April to 16th April everyday; of 40 days at and above BC, 29 days snowfall and strong wind and very dangerous frequent avalanching. On 6th April Dellatorre and Dawa hoped to go to summit with one biv, but Dawa developed altitude sickness only 15m above C3 and had to retreat to C3. 7th Dawa still sick and heavy snowfall, so down to BC in dangerous snow conditions. Wanted to make another summit but bad weather to 17th. On 18th Barbieri & Giovanoli up but only to 6200m and again heavy snowfall, fog and strong wind, so same evening back to BC and climb finished.


expid: ANN191102
peakid: ANN1
year: 1991
route1: N Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Ralf Dujmovits
sponsor: Amical Alpin Annapurna I Expedition 1991
bcdate: 1991-04-07
smtdate: 1991-04-26
termnote: Abandoned at 5750m due to dangerous snow conditions
campsites: BC(07/04,4250m),C1(11/04,5000m),C2(18/04,5630m),xxx(26/04,5750m)
accidents: None
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C2 before traverse to Dutch Rib
  High point start of traverse to Dutch Rib.

  BC most dangerous place on route: ice falling off Tilicho South Face. Huge serac came down and wind from it blew tents away at BC. After C2 established, three times half-meter fresh snow, which same on top of thin layer of ice in a basin below and right of Dutch Rib and much too dangerous to traverse this basin. All members reached C2.


expid: DHA191101
peakid: DHA1
year: 1991
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Denmark
leaders: Soren Smidt
sponsor: Danish Dhaulagiri Expedition 1991
ascent1: 50th
approach: Dhampus Pass
bcdate: 1991-04-01
smtdate: 1991-05-14
smttime: 1245
campsites: BC(01/04,4700m),ABC(14/04,5700m),C1(20/04,6600m),C2(25/04,7200m),C3(02/05,7700m),Smt(14/05)
accidents: Nothing serious
achievment: 1st Danish ascent of any 8000er
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC  at normal site
  ABC at icefall top at NE Col
  C1  at snow cave at start of ridge
  C2  on NE Ridge.

  Took 2 weeks to place ABC because of frequent snowfall and avalanches. Fixed entire icefall. 3 May Mathorne and Christensen left C3 for top but turned around 5 mins because of cold and toes starting to freeze. 

  8th May Ritzau, Smidt, Voldstedlund and Korsgaard left ABC for summit bid, but Korsgaard and Voldstedlund turned back on 11th at 7200m because one had headache and other had never interested to go to top. 12th Ritzau down from C2 because not strong. Smidt on to C3 on 12th and stayed there 13th to rest. Snow very deep (almost to hips) and worked hard 12th night to put camp in order. 14th left C3 at 8:15 am and on top at 12:45 pm in cold but clear and windless weather that morning.

  Between Marpha and BC stuck in big snowstorm for 6 days.

  BC to ABC 7 km apart and never down to BC for one month. With no Sherpas most members exhausted by establishing ABC from such a distance from BC.


expid: APIM91101
peakid: APIM
year: 1991
route1: NW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Thea-Yeon
sponsor: Korean Api Kyoung Shin O.B. 1991 Expedition
ascent1: 5th
approach: Dadeldhura->Patan->Darchula Mahakali River->Api Khola
bcdate: 1991-05-08
smtdate: 1991-05-27
smttime: 1615
termdate: 1991-05-29
campsites: BC(08/05,3800m),ABC(11/05,4600m),C1(13/05,5200m),C2(19/05,6600m),Smt(27/05)
accidents: Lee Young-Joo too sick (altitude sickness??)
achievment: 1st Korean ascent in 1st Korean attempt
agency: Sherap Wangdi
routememo:
  BC  at Api Khola
  ABC on glacier at bottom of wall
  C1  on west wall of NW Ridge
  C2  on NW Ridge.

  At time of summit push C1 and C2 broken by wind and push began from ABC on 27 May at 5:00 am and reached top at 4:15 pm. 

  No more summit bids: destruction of tents by wind and no time left. Winds had driven climbers down to BC after C2 pitched and attempts to mount summit attack, so afterwards aborted by winds. Left BC 29 May.

  Best way to BC is from Nepalgunj to Darchula by bus via India.

  C1-C2 big wall of rock with some snow; 50-degree slope 800m high; fixed rope up this wall all the way, but on 27 May some sections had been blown away by winds.


expid: TILI91101
peakid: TILI
year: 1991
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Dominique Neuenschwander
sponsor: Swiss Expedition to Tilicho
countries: France
bcdate: 1991-04-20
termdate: 1991-04-20
termnote: Abandoned at 4100m due to too much snow, icy and windy
campsites: xxx(4100m)
accidents: None
routememo:
  BC northwest corner of Tilicho (site reached by one member but no camp pitched and no climbing done).

  Stopped at 4600m next of Mesokanto Pass, farthest porters would go on 16th April. Jacquier went onto BC site with sirdar on 20th April but did not make BC. Very cold and windy and deep snow beyond Mesokanto Pass to BC, so not possible for porters to carry loads to BC and in fact no BC established. Went to Jomsom 21 April and Neuenschwander and Chamot left there 22nd while others two are leaving soon with baggage.


expid: BHRI91102
peakid: BHRI
year: 1991
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Andre Luethi
sponsor: Blobe Trek Expedition to Bhrikuti
approach: Jomsom->Kagbeni->Tangbe
termdate: 1991-03-25
termnote: Abandoned due to snow enroute to BC (did no climbing)
othersmts: One small hill scrambled up
accidents: None
agency: Regal Excursions
routememo:
  Jomsom-Kagbeni-Tangbe; at Tangbe, people said necessary to go to Tsarang, where a valley leads to SE to Bhrikuti (Damodar Kund and its Khola). Left Tangbe on 20th on which weather, changed to rain, then snow and cold strong wind - crossed four 4000m passes between Tangbe and Tsarang, which reached on 23rd after 1-1/2 days of snow. 24th also bad weather and 25th evening at Tsarang decided not to go farther. Tsarang is 3500m altitude and BC would be 4800m & way not possible for poorly clad porters in such weather. On 26th stayed one more day at Tsarang but left there on 27th to retraced steps to Jomsom. Arrived KTM 2 April.

  Bhrikuti is ESE of Tsarang, farther north on border than location given on Nepal central sheet map of HMG. As seen from Tsarang, it looks difficult with difficulties all on the North Face.


expid: MANA91103
peakid: MANA
year: 1991
route1: NE Face
nation: Ireland
leaders: Dawson Stelfox
sponsor: Irish Manaslu Expedition 1991
countries: UK
bcdate: 1991-03-25
smtdate: 1991-04-27
termdate: 1991-04-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(25/03,3850m),ABC(29/03,4200m),C1(02/04,5050m),C2(14/04,5600m),xxx(27/04,6100m)
accidents: None
achievment: 1st Irish attempt
routememo:
  BC at low site
  High piont below North Col.

  3-14th April nearly continuous snowfall with 2-3m of snow with avalanching on ridge of route. Had reached C3 site on 3 April but snow conditions afterwards delayed progress. 15th snowed again but on 17th tried to go above C2 for 1st time. More snowfall again. On 21st returned to C2 and more attempts to go above. Reached 6100m only in deep soft snow which was consolidating. Would have had to wait quite some time for better conditions. No wind at altitude Irish reached. Date to leave BC was 2 May; actually left on 30th April.


expid: MANA91104
peakid: MANA
year: 1991
route1: NE Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Hans Kammerlander
sponsor: S Tirolean Himalayan Expedition 1991 to Manaslu
countries: Germany
bcdate: 1991-04-17
smtdate: 1991-05-10
termdate: 1991-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to bad weather and lack of time
campsites: BC(17/04,4000m),C1(21/04,5600m),C2(24/04,6200m),C3(09/05,6990m),xxx(10/05,7500m)
accidents: Grossrubatscher fatal fall; Mutschlechner killed by lightning
routememo:
  BC at normal site (Manaslu Glacier)
  C1 on Manaslu Glacier
  C2 on Manaslu Glacier
  C3 on Manaslu Glacier
  High point at 40-degree slope of Manaslu Glacier northeast side.

  On 10th May Hans Kammerlander, Freidl Mutschlechner and Karl Grossrubatscher left C3 at 5:30 am. After half-hour Friedl turned back because previously frostbitten fingers getting numb (-35 degrees windy weather) and returned to C3. Karl turned back at 7200m because had not brought his ice axe and now realized it was needed. They had seen weather not good and not trying for top. From BC saw Karl around C3 tent. Because cloudy at 9:00 am and no longer could be seen. Hans turned back at 7500m because of cold and windy. Saw Friedl near C3 tent and Freidl asked Hans at about 9:00 am where is Karl? (Freidl had been sleeping). They looked, around and saw Karl's body c100m to C3 and very near tent found ice axe with glove in it's strap - Karl's neck broken, but how? Gentle slope with some snow in good condition. He was very strong and professional climber. Perhaps he went up serac above tent, but no sign of body's falling in snow - little blood on temple, but only neck broken. Body put on top of closed crevasse which in warmer weather will open. Hans and Friedl then took down to C3 tent and went to C2, took this tent down. Fog coming and going so down slowly in poor visibility. Left some gear below a steep section; others next day would recover this and they towards C1. Their ice axes were singing with and hair full of electricity. 100m above C1 there was a small hill and they were on skies roped together; Friedl asks Hans to wait for better visibility. Hans ear popped, but no lightning seen; ear felt like biting on it and he dropped his rucksack and dropped himself into snow - pulled on rope but no response. He scooped out snow and lay in his shallow cave (about 4 pm) but before went to Friedl who did not move, stayed only a minute, made his shelter cave and later again to Freidl and now saw he was dead. Hans immediately to C1 despite snow falling and stayed there above that night - stormed all night. 11 May Hans to BC and 3 other members, sirdar, 2 Sherpas and kitchen boy up to C1. Members to Friedl and left him where he lay. Took C1 to BC and all activity finished. Left BC 13th May.

  3 burn marks on Friedl's head and cap. Hans 8m distant from Friedl and little lower than Freidl, who was at highest point of small gentle hill.

  On 21st April saw oil on  water from snow - from Kuwait's oil wells burning? Afterwards fresh snow did not have oil again on water.


expid: MANA91102
peakid: MANA
year: 1991
route1: E Face (to 7250m)
route2: S Ridge up; NE Face down
nation: USSR
leaders: Vladimir Shumichin
sponsor: First Ukrainian Himalaya Expedition 1991 Manaslu
ascent2: 36th
bcdate: 1991-03-22
smtdate: 1991-05-06
smttime: 1600
termdate: 1991-05-10
campsites: BC(22/03,3950m),C1(25/03,5150m),C2(27/03,6500m),C3(07/04,6800m),Smt(06/05)
accidents: None although some left early (not strong)
achievment: 1st traverse of Manaslu, 1st USSR ascent
routememo:
  BC on north side of Punggyen Glacier southwest of Kharka
  C3 on glacier before East Wall/Face
  C5 on South Ridge (series of bivouacs).

  After C2 took time; about 10 rope-lengths above C3 on east wall where USSR climbers fell in 1990; finished their old route but now too much snow and avalanching. Down to BC after reaching 7200-7300m 28th April E Face. 

  Now 3 men from BC climbed alpine-style with no fixed ropes, no fixed camps, no O2 to S Ridge. Started 1st may from BC, went through C1 after drinking there and climbed through night to saddle if possible but bivouac 10-12 rope-lengths before saddle at 6500m; 2nd night at Polish saddle 7000m. 4th May daytime climb on S Ridge and bivouac before steep rock ridge at 7400m. 5th May very difficult and dangerous traverse to bivouac at 7850m. 6th May to top; left last bivouac at 6 am, on top after 10 hours (last ropes to the top very steep and dangerous snow avalanching) and carrying all gear in order to traverse and descend normal route and bivouac at 7900m. On 6th May on normal route which was NE Face ridge. 7th May down slowly because tired and did not know route to 7100m following old ropes sometimes and Italian BC 8th May where 2 Soviets met them and own BC early morning 9th May. Left BC 10th May.


expid: MAKA91102
peakid: MAKA
year: 1991
route1: W Face (new rte)
nation: Italy
leaders: Casimiro Ferrari
sponsor: City of Lecco Expedition 1991 Makalu
bcdate: 1991-04-03
smtdate: 1991-05-07
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to wind, difficult route, exhaustion, etc
campsites: BC(03/04,5300m),C1(07/04,6000m),C2(20/04,6500m),C3(01/05,7050m),xxx(07/05,7300m)
routememo:
  BC above glacier near glacier's junction
  C1 north of point 6180m
  High point at West Face.

  Very strong winds after 7th April and tents broken. Fixed 500m rope up from C1 and below C3 about 1000m of rope and 800m more to 7300m to top for a small ridge and start of very steep section. After reached 7300m wind strong and blowing much snow on to route. Now very cold and feet begining to freeze. Others not able to forge ahead. 

  12th May S Panzeri and Spreafico were only climbers techinically capable of moving fast enough and they tried again but feet gave a lot of pain and turned back. 

  All members reached C2 but only Spreafico and Panzeri brothers reached C3 (plus Ferrari for 1 night). S Panzeri and Spreafico want to come again and finish route up "very good granite" above hard ice; ice 60 degeees (below C3). 

  Negri arrived at BC 24th April because had had ski accident; he reached C2 and then knee swelled up and had to stop.

  Oxygen used only by sick Sherpa who had pulmonary edema.

accidents:
  1 Sherpa pulmonary edema; 2 members start of frostbite; Negri arrived at BC late because had had ski accident (he reached C2 and then Knee swelled up and had to stop)


expid: MAKA91101
peakid: MAKA
year: 1991
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Todd Burleson
sponsor: 1991 American Makalu Expedition
bcdate: 1991-03-29
smtdate: 1991-04-28
termnote: Abandoned at 8150m due to winds
campsites: BC(29/03,5000m),ABC(02/04,5300m),C1(06/04,6200m),C2(17/04,6800m),C3(25/04,7600m),xxx(28/04,8150m)
accidents: None
routememo:
  April went up to C2 site and left cache and then down to ABC to rest. Then it snowed and down to BC. 11th up to C1, where spent 5 days because of winds. Up to C2 and spent 1 night with howling winds. 13th down to ABC for 3 days. 16th to C1 but only 1 day there because of winds even there; down to BC. 23rd to C1, 24th C2, 25th to 7600m, where spent 2 half days. 28th winds stopped at 6 am and got to 8150m 5 hours later. There winds blew up and Burleson had only 25m of 7mm rope; saw old fixed lines but unusable (pulled right out). Burleson now alone (Sherpas went only as high as C3 and waited there) so turned back and down to C1 knowing this was end of climb. Discouraged by wind, but very happy with the climb because really well, getting fast and not concerned about others. Much easier route than those on north side of Everest.


expid: BARU91101
peakid: BARU
year: 1991
route1: SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Scott Fischer
sponsor: Mountain Madness Baruntse Expedition 1991
ascent1: 23rd,24th
approach: Lukla->Honku Valley->West Col
bcdate: 1991-05-01
smtdate: 1991-05-07
smttime: 1100
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak
campsites: BC(01/05,5400m),C1(04/05,6135m),C2(06/05,6300m),Smt(07,09/05)
accidents: None
agency: Himalayan Treks (Him Treks)
routememo:
  Climb was technically difficult: mostly very exposed snow climbing. Fixed rope in couple of places above W Col (total of 300m); also fixed to W Col.


expid: MAKA91103
peakid: MAKA
year: 1991
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Rene de Bos
sponsor: Dutch Makalu I Expedition
bcdate: 1991-04-05
smtdate: 1991-04-27
termdate: 1991-05-02
othersmts: Climbed Kangchungste (Makalu II) illegally (MAK2-911-01)
campsites: BC(05/04,5350m),C1(07/04,6000m),C2(12/04,6700m),C3(27/04,7400m),xxx(7400m)
accidents: None
routememo:
  BC at Japanese BC near glacier's junction
  C3 at Makalu La (around corner out of wind, highest point on Makalu attempt).

  "Had so much wind even at BC." 29th April reached 7640m summit of Kangchungtse. Had trouble with kerosene for stove and heard from Burleson about ice on rock above and already 2 nights at La, so De Bos and Willekens, the only people then in C3, went to Kangchungtse summit. Turned back and down to C1 after Kangchungtse ascent. 30th down from C3 and no one else up after that. Sherpas had cleared some camps and De Bos and Willekens cleared most of the rest.


expid: KANG91102
peakid: KANG
year: 1991
route1: SW Face
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Tone Skarja
sponsor: Slovene Himalayan Expedition to Kangchenjunga & Jannu
ascent1: 37th
countries: Poland
approach: Yalung Glacier
bcdate: 1991-04-12
smtdate: 1991-05-01
smttime: 1325
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),C1(15/04,6200m),C2(20/04,6750m),C3(22/04,7250m),C4(30/04,7600m),Smt(01/05)
accidents: 2 members fatal fall
achievment: New route to south summit; 1st Yugoslavia ascent
othersmts:
  Climbed Kangchenjunga Central (KANC-911-01) and Kangchenjunga South (KANS-911-01); climbed Talung illegally (TLNG-911-01); attempted Jannu (JANE-911-01)

routememo:
  All members went to same BC. Kanch South climbers then went to Talung while Jannu climbers acclimatized on Kangchenjunga Central Summit. Kanch South reached at 10:30 am of 1st May, having left C3 at 10 pm on 30th April and climbed Polish route; 3x50m fixed rope 7 difficult climb on mostly rock; returned to C3 at 10 pm. 1st May (took no stove but had 1 litre thermos of water, biv bag but no sleeping bag); stopped only 1 hr at 8200m to rest. 

  Main summit pairs left C4 2 am 1st May on top 1:25 pm and back to C3. On 2nd May Frantar and Rozman from C3 to C4. 2/3 May left C4 with 1 oxygen bottle; no one knows where left C4: planned to leave at 10 pm of 2nd May, but probably left later; were seen at 8000m at 8 am; wind very strong; last seen at 8100m at 11 am and then clouds came over them. One had 1 oxygen bottle and one of them moved only 100 vertical meters in 3 hrs while another went up 50m and returned to the other and then both seem going up together. At 4 pm they radioed they were 150m below top, they were cold, one wanted to descend and one wanted to go on up, woman was becoming snowblind but it was she wanting to go up (ambitious to become first woman a top). Both agreed to descend. Last radio contact at 7 pm and reported (speaking with difficulty) they did not know where they were "lost completely" or where to find C4; were having trouble pushing radio's buttons. Bodies found on 3rd and 4th; probably fell about 8:00 pm; definitely fell.

  Rutkiewicz did not reach summit because she was too slow, spent too much time and energy on photography with much equipment, had no climbing plan. Skarja made no agreement (as she claims he had) to give her 2 summit attempts and after fatal accident climbing finished.


  Rutkiewicz - 15 May 91

  Left BC 9 May

  WR to C2 on 4 May
  BC to rest  4 May

  and then learned porters called for 8th at BC, but WR had paid $8800 and received promise to wait for her to make 2 attempts.

  Yugos had asked her to help in search/rescue. 

  WR to BC to ask someone to help her with obtaining porters when she finished her 2nd attempt. WR started up on 8 May reached C2 - all learned on 8th from BC no staff to wait for her; only 2 porters for one day would wait. Down to BC on 9th, where 2 porters (and ill Ewa) were only people left.

  30th April - Stremfelj and Prezelj reached South Summit by new route so planned without oxygen and in one push of 6 days and down normal route to C3 at 7300m on Great Shelf - had made acclimatization climb of Talung.

  1 May - Rupar solo ascent to Central Summit from C3 via Polish route without oxygen; started 30 April night; descended same route to C3 on 1 May.

  1 May - 2:00 am Bozic and Groselj started from C4 (7600m) to main summit by normal route using oxygen and on top 1:30 pm and down to C3 and 2 May to BC (5500m).

  2nd May Frantar and Rozman arrive C4 and 3 May tried for main summit (one on oxygen) at 4:00 pm radioed reached 150m below top and one decided to go down and one up; leader said both should come down (now late and windy) and they agreed and would radio again about 6:30 pm. At 6:30 they reported didn't know, where they were and where to go; Frantar snowblinded and it seemed they had frostbitten fingers. This last contact.

  4 May Rutkiewicz alone going up to C4 - 100m below C4 she found Rozman's body battered body must have fallen more than 800m); she returned C3.

  5 May Drazan and Juhant up from C3, put Rozman body in crevasse and 50m below C4 found Frantar's body also body battered; put here body in crevasse. Down to C2 and 6 May to BC and expedition finished unless Rutkiewicz tried for top again.

  Jannu - tried face in alpine-style from 28 April - reached 7050m in 5 days. Stopped by wind and snow and resounded in 2 days and no additional attempts. Extremely difficult and in daytime sun produced waterfalls.

  Others in 18 May KTM; leave 20 May if team arrives as planned.

  20m-high serac 7200m on Kangchenjunga impossible by Sherpa.


expid: KANG91101
peakid: KANG
year: 1991
route1: NE Spur (E Ridge)-N Face/Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Hukam Singh, Yoshio Ogata
sponsor: Indo-Japanese Kangchenjunga (8586m) Expedition 1991
ascent1: 38th,39th
countries: Japan
approach: From Gangtok->Taggu by road (long rte->BC via 3 passes)
bcdate: 1991-03-31
smtdate: 1991-05-24
smttime: 1150
termdate: 1991-05-30
accidents: Nothing except Pasang's fatal fall; Ogata fell 20m but not hurt
campsites:
  BC(31/03,4935m),ABC(15/04,5200m),C1(20/04,5700m),C2(27/04,6300m),C3(04/05,6800m),C4(09/05,7450m),C5(15/05,7850m),C6(23/05,8000m),Smt(24-25/05)

routememo:
  BC  at Green Lake
  ABC at glacier junction of Zemu and Twins Glaciers
  C1  on South Face of NE Spur
  C2  ont NE Spur
  C3  at wide snow ridge which NE Spur 
  C4  on NE Spur
  C5  at top of NE Spur
  C6  on North Face.

  NE Spur very difficult: snow monsters, "up-down zig-zag," so much fixed ropes. 16 Indian climbing members (Indian leader to C1) and 14 Japanese climbers (Ogata to C6). Northern approach in spring did not reach BC even after digging yak road taking month extra to get to BC.

  14 March we left Gangtok by 4 mini-buses and 7 auto trucks with members and high altitude porters.

  There are two routes for approaching BC at Green Lake in the Zemu Glacier. One of them is along the Zemu Chu (river) from Lachen and the others are a roundabout way the Northern area from Tanggu. Three high passes stand the roundabout way that Lugnak La, Thieu La and Tangchung La.

  The route of our approach to the Base Camp had been set for roundabout way our overall leader. I was anxious about snow condition of these high passes for yaks in middle of March. As a consequence it follows that it took the team 44 days to transport for expedition loads from the road-head to the Base Camp at Green Lake (4935m). If it were not for snow on the high passes, we could reach to Base Camp from road head only 4 days. The advance party arrived the Base Camp on 31 March and last party arrived on 26 April such being the case. 

  As advance party selected a site for Advance Base Camp on 1 April. Carrying of supplies up to ABC started on 10 April. The route to ABC led up the Zemu Glacier from Base Camp. ABC was on a glacier where the Twins Glacier joins to the Zemu Glacier at an elevation of 5200m.

  After ABC, we started route making for C1. The first obstacle was in the form of an icefall. This icefall stands in just below the Upper Zemu Glacier where it was about one hour from ABC. At that point the East Face of Kangchenjunga, which until then had been hidden by lower part of NE Spur, came into full view for the time. This icefall technically speaking was not as bad as the one of Everest but was far more dangerous due the constant hazard of ice avalanches and falling boulders. The members and high altitude porters had often narrow escapes from the bombardment of stones and ice avalanches.
   
  On April 16, 6 climbers who stretched 13 pitches of fixed rope across several crevasses and ice walls. They reached an elevation of 5600m. The next day, they extended the route 9 more pitches up an ice plateau on the Upper Zemu Glacier where we pitched Camp after several days.

  On 19th April, both the leader and some members reached C1, we had view for reconnaissance to find a climbing route for East Face of Kangchenjunga. The East Face was very steep with ice and rock mix face and was dangerous due to the constant hazard of big avalanches. We judged from that view there was no feasible route up from the top of the Upper Zemu Glacier.

  The same day a huge icefall at the just below the snow plateau broke down and route was cut to pieces. We changed make of fixed rope to the flank of NE Spur on the following day. 

  C1 was set up at the South Face of the NE Spur on 20 April at the height of 5700m.

  After Camp I we had to gain the crest of the deadly NE Spur. The South Face of the NE Spur rises up almost vertically for about 300m from the flat glacier basin, and the steep face with fluted ice-gullies was swept regularly by avalanches. The route from C1 was traverse of the South Face.

  On April 21, Yoshida's party stretched 20 pitches of fixed rope across several ice gullies and broken rock face. They extended the ridge an elevation of 6150m. The next day they extended 2 more pitches up an ice wall, and they came out on the NE Spur. From there the NE Spur that there were towers piled upon towers, cliff upon cliff, huge vertical columns which tapered like spires and shining curtains festooned with icicles, hanging down the precipices from the cornices above. There were great bulges and chasms wrenched by the wind and cold into fantastic mushroom shapes which had the likeness of night monsters. The fixed ropes were flung all over the place to secure the members and high atitude porters from falling into the sheer depths below. We had found old fixed ropes on the ridge presumably belonging to the 1977 and 1987 Indian expeditions. We stretched 34 pitches of fixed ropes from C1 to C2. C2 pitched a strip place the cornices above on the NE Spur an elevation of 6300m on 27 April.

  On 28 April, Nazuka's party started route making for C3. From there the NE Spur also there were huge vertical mushroom shapes which had the likeness of monsters. There were cornices which could not be climbed in any way. They passed through a natural tunnels to surmount there. They extended the route 9 pitches up on the rugged ridge from 28 April till 30 April.

  On 1st May, Yoshida's party stretched 9 pitches of fixed rope across big crevasses and several huge ice cliffs, and they reached an elevation of 6550m. They extended the route 10 more pitches up on the snow rugged ridge on the following day, and they reached an elevation of 6880m. C3 perched on a snow slope where the 5 pitched below the highest reaching point of the 2 May and elevation of 6800m on 4 May. At that point the NE Spur came into widely snow ridge with no technical difficulty. Below one looks down a steep slope at the Upper Zemu Glacier and the Twins Glacier.

  On 4 May we set up C3 at the height of 6800m we had reached the previous day.

  On 6 May, Ogata's party reached a point of the NE Spur where there were huge ice cliffs at 7250m. We strung 14 pitches of fixed rope up the snow ridge for two days.

  The next day Oda's party succeeded in reaching a point of C4 at the height of 7450m. They strung six and half pitches of fixed rope up the NE Spur. 

  On 9 May we established C4, and Nazuka's party stayed the first night at C4. Next morning Nazuka's party started on the route on the NE Spur derived from the Junction Peak and rope were fixed all the way. The route from C4 was up a snow ridge with very steep arete, and this the arete culminating at the highest point the NE Spur. From there the arete below one looks down the North Col on the North Ridge and beyond North Col there is a view of Nepal Himalayas. After four days work to complete this route, 4 Indian climbers reached C5 at the height of 7800m on 14 May. The next day they have set up C5 with two high altitude porters.

  On May 15 Pasang Sherpa, Khem Raj, Sharki Bhutia and Lopsang Tshering went for reconnaissance to find a final camp. They reached old camp site of Indian expedition in 1977 and 1987 at height of about 8000m. They returned back to C5. The same day's morning, Sato and I [Ogata] started the labourious work to carry up the luggage to C5 and we reached C5 at noon. We met four Indian members just the same time.

  They told us about the ascent route for the summit which can be seen from the reaching highest point on today. I thought that they have caught an easy going way of thinking for attack to the summit.

  The next day they had thunder clap of accident. They made a start from C5 at just 4:00 am. Four Indians members reached to the old camp site of Indian expedition, they deposited their carrying loads at the place, and continued up the summit of Kangchenjunga at their own discretion with one oxygen cylinder to each of the members.

  During their attack Pasang Sherpa tragically fell off to the North Face side and was missing.
  Though the accident upset the plan considerably, I have made again plan for attack to the summit.

  We went into mourning for Pasang Sherpa at each camp on following day. We regained the final stage of our expedition with heavy hearts.

  On 23 May, seven Japanese members who were constituted into a support party and on 24 May the summit party, they went up to the North Face, and reached an elevation of 7950m on the North Face. They established C6 at this point, and now they were getting the full blast of the westerlies. Nazuka and Imamura stretched 7 pitches of fixed rope in the snow gully at the rear of C6. The support party returned, leaving Hideji Nazuka, Hirotaka Imamura and Ryuzo Oda at C6. When they tried to fix their oxygen regulators they found that there were two sets only. We discussed the best attack plan by walkie-talkie between C6 and BC, and we decided that Nazuka attempt an attack of the summit without oxygen.

  On 24th May, they made a start at just 4:00 am in biting cold. Oda was carrying two oxygen cylinders and Imamura was carrying one oxygen cylinder they started climbing. They added another 3 pitches of fixed rope for safety on the descent. Very soon Imamura collapsed owing to the some trouble on the oxygen mask that Imamura was not getting any oxygen flow. He left his oxygen cylinder and he began climbing again without oxygen. At 8:15 am Oda left one of his half used oxygen cylinder to be used on the return journey. They slogged on and on, in deep snow and fierce winds. Sometimes the winds were so strong that they were pushed of their feet. At 10:57 am Nazuka reached the West Col on the main ridge of between Main Peak and Yalung Kang (West Peak). From there the summit ridge of Kangchenjunga becomes traversed a snow and rock mix face the Yalung glacier side, he escaped to some partly fierce winds. He climbed along the Yalung Glacier side of the summit ridge to the main summit. It was 11:50 am when Nazuka stood on the summit of Kangchenjunga. He remembered the promise the team had given to the people of Sikkim. He left the last 7 feet untrodden. He took pictures and came back the same way he went in carefully, and he returned back the West Col at 13:00 and then he met Oda. Imamura had not yet reached the Col. Imamura reached the West Col climbing up the summit ridge. Very soon Imamura joined Oda. They finally stood up on the summit at 15:23, and returned back C6 in darkness at 22:30 in the night.

  Next early morning the second summit party, consisting of Coy Commander SD Sharma, Subedar Kanhaiya Lal and Sub-Inspector T Smamla started from C6 to summit. They reached the summit of Kangchenjunga at 14:30 and returned back Camp 6 in safety at 19:48.

  Because of the time and weather constraints most of the members both Japanese and Indians had to sacrifice their chance to summit the peak as to support their colleagues in the best mountaineering tradition. Thus six members could reach the summit.


expid: EVER91107
peakid: EVER
year: 1991
route1: W Cwm-W Ridge (to 7400m)
route2: S Col-SE Ridge (to 7900m)
nation: Australia
leaders: Michael Groom
sponsor: Australian Everest Expedition 1991
bcdate: 1991-03-26
smtdate: 1991-05-01
termdate: 1991-05-10
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to bad weather and team's lack of strength, etc
campsites: BC(26/03,5350m),C1(04/04,6100m),C2(13/04,6500m),C3(30/04,7200m),C4(01/05,7900m),xxx(01/05,7900m)
accidents: Coulton frostbite that will heal
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 at Batard's snow cave on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col
  High point at South Col.

  Started going up W Shoulder 24th April and reached US 1963 C4 site at c7400m on shoulder; by now only 3 members still climbing and felt not strong enough (2 had left and Pickering had stopped) and Sherpas to C2 only (scared of W Ridge and plan was to move very light weight).

  Other teams gave no objection to switch to S Col route and while awaiting HMG permission moved up to Col. 2 May weather both windy and storm front coming in) and Groom down to BC on 2nd while Coulton and Dignan now down to C2 on 3rd and BC on 4th. Left BC 10th May.


  Sachit Pant, HMG - 15 Sept 1991

  Permission to change route refused because of the number of other teams already granted permission.


expid: EVER91101
peakid: EVER
year: 1991
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Peter Athans
sponsor: Sherpa Support Expedition
ascent1: 115 w/Nepal
bcdate: 1991-03-10
smtdate: 1991-05-08
smttime: 1000
campsites: BC(10/03,5350m),C1(28/03,6100m),C2(02/04,6500m),C3(05/04,7100m),C4(21/04,7900m),Smt(08/05)
accidents: Matous altitude illness
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at Col.

  Sherpas [from First Sherpa Youth Expedition] made 3 unsuccessful summit bids with first one on 24th and got to SE Ridge above SE Face "when defeated by wind" as on next two tries. On 2nd try got near S Summit; 3rd really not an attempt (did not get out of C4 tents); this 3rd bid was about 2nd May. 

  Athans and Matous left C2 on 5th May for Lhotse summit and reached C3. Steve developed bad headache and used oxygen that night and 6th went down to C2 and Athans stayed at C3 to wait for Sherpas to mount their 4th Everest attempt. Athans and 3 Sherpas to C2 on 7th and to top on 8th, starting together but Athans fell behind struggling with video camera. Athans had left col at 2 am and Sherpas on top at 9:00 am and Athans 10:00 am on top (Sherpas waited at top for Athans) on cold and windy day. For Sherpas this was last summit bid; they were burned out.

  Lhotse very dry and lot of bare rock and blue ice; whole of Lhotse Face "blinking of blue ice." Icefall huge crevasse. So with partner and rope Athans would have gone for Lhotse summit but not alone (Athans not soloist, likes sharing experience with someone else).


expid: EVER91102
peakid: EVER
year: 1991
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Robert Link, Edmund Viesturs
sponsor: Ershler-Wendel Everest Expedition
ascent1: 118
bcdate: 1991-03-10
smtdate: 1991-05-15
termdate: 1991-05-18
campsites: BC(10/03,5350m),C1(01/04,6100m),C2(06/04,6500m),C3(19/04,7200m),C4(27/04,7900m),Smt(15/05)
accidents: None
agency: Nepal Himal
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at Col.

  Took 12 hours to reach summit because of deep and dry loose snow; for every step took, slid back half a step; it was "mind-boggling." Started out on oxygen but about 9:30 am it ran out (leaky bottle) and carried on without it. Wendel back at C4 from C3 on 14th and went no higher and on 15th to C2 with Wangchu Sherpa. Goff climbed an hour with Viesturs above C4 and turned back tired, cold feet and not going fast enough; not mentally prepared for summit push. 

  Amy Wendel got to C3 twice (1st time got sick, 2nd time not motivated). All members reached C3. All left BC 18th May. Nepalese expedition said they would not maintain icefall beyond 18th May. 
  Wendels were disappointed and Hall Wendel wants to try again. Viesturs will bring fewer Americans and hire more Sherpas. Had stocked C4 for 12 people (all members and 4 Sherpas) and that needed too much hard work from guides (Wendels carried no loads). Will pitch C5 next tine for Wendel's ascent.


expid: EVER91112
peakid: EVER
year: 1991
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Norbert Joos
sponsor: International Everest Expedition
countries: France, Germany
bcdate: 1991-04-07
smtdate: 1991-05-06
termdate: 1991-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to wind and lack of strength
campsites: BC(07/04,5350m),C1(14/04,6400m),C2(18/04,7200m),xxx(06/05,7900m)
accidents: None
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 in Western Cwm
  C2 on Lhotse Face.

  Kessler and Joos up 2nd time to 7200m but again down as on 14th because of wind. 5th May to 7200m and 6th May to Col, but down on 7th to BC May (used Athans' tent at col) because of wind and Joos developing frostbitten nip on nose. Called off climb on 13th because winds and tired. Other 4 members were always one day behind Joos and Kessler and never reached col because lead men radioed no point in coming up. 

  Expedition had permit for S Pillar but made no attempt to climb it. Asked at BC for col permit, never received answers but this fact did not affect climb.


expid: EVER91116
peakid: EVER
year: 1991
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Muneo Nukita
sponsor: Japanese Everest
ascent1: 126
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 1991-04-30
smtdate: 1991-05-27
smttime: 1300
termdate: 1991-05-30
othersmts: Island Peak and Parchamo
campsites: BC(30/04),ABC(03/05,6500m),C1(13/05,7000m),C2(14/05,7800m),C3(26/05,8200m),Smt(27/05)
accidents: No problem at all until fatal fall, until then 'everything went perfectly'
routememo:
  BC  at road
  ABC at North Col
  C1  at North Col
  C2  on North Ridge
  C3  on North Face.

  2 members and 1 Sherpa to N Col in April for acclimatization then back to KTM to pick up baggage (20 from France and other items from Japan) and to rest. 27th April left KTM with 5 Sherpas; Chinese customs problem, back to KTM for papers; crossed on 28th and on to BC and ABC on 3rd, which was too fast for Sherpas to acclimatize and sent them back to BC. Decided to cancel highest camps to save time. Down to Shegar on 18th May for rest while Sherpas ferried loads to C2. Returned to BC 20th May and up mountain for ABC 22 May. Left C3 at 1:30 am of 27th and got to top 1 pm; climbed in almost full moonlight and then clear morning with little wind - Futagami little later than others. 1:45 pm started descent in fog in same as reached top. Nukita 150m distant from top with 2 Sherpas just behind, but Phinzo reported did not see Futagami. They returned to summit and found his footprints 20m from summit. Phinzo went to edge and said he saw traces of where body had fallen. Nonetheless left rope fixed case he came back and returned to C3 at 9:30 pm; light flashing all night; left stocked C3. Nukita down on 28th to ABC, 29th to BC and arrived KTM last night while Sherpas are packing up and coming to border 3 June.


expid: EVER91109
peakid: EVER
year: 1991
route1: A couloir just W of N Col-N Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Robert Anderson
countries: New Zealand
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk Glacier
bcdate: 1991-03-31
smtdate: 1991-05-21
termdate: 1991-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to extreme cold
campsites: ChineseBC(31/03),ABC(06/04,5550m),C1(15/04,6700m),xxx(21/05,8300m)
accidents: None
routememo:
  No more fixed camps but at least once
  Biv used tent at others camps
  High point at North Ridge.

  Skied up to 6500m to "casual couloir" east of N Col leading to N Ridge. 3 summit attempts: 

  (1) 1 May - left bivouac and C1 that night at 8100m, which had reached at 11 am; had to stop instead of going straight through to top because of wind and snow; had bivouac sack but very light load; snowed all night and got very cold; down to C1 2 May and ABC 3rd. 

  (2) 10th May from ABC to C1, 11th to 8000m in 11 hrs; really windy; had tent and sleeping bag which slowed him; down to N Col that night because couldn't get own tent up; used Mike Perry's empty tent at col; ABC in 11th. 

  (3) 17th May from ABC to C1; 18th stayed at C1 because of snowfall; 19th from C1 at 7 am to 7900m at 2 pm and bivouac here with tent; 20th to 8200m and bivouac here; 21st from here at 3 am and reached 8300m in 1 hr (not carrying anything) but now "the cold was incredible" and down to 8200m where met others in their camp but not to go on down but to go up with them on 22nd; Brice and Taylor tried for top but Anderson did not go up in the extreme cold; Anderson down to 7900m, where stayed in British tent; 23rd to C1 and 24th to ABC; never actually climbed with anyone else.


expid: EVER91114
peakid: EVER
year: 1991
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Marc Batard
sponsor: Commodore Everest-Lhotse
countries: Germany
bcdate: 1991-04-11
smtdate: 1991-05-01
termdate: 1991-05-05
termnote: Abandoned at 8200m due to no permit to climb
campsites: BC(11/04,5350m),C1(14/04,6400m),C2(23/04,7200m),Biv(01/05,8200m),xxx(01/05,8200m)
accidents: None
agency: Amtrek
routememo:
  C2 in ice cave on Lhotse Face
  High point on SE Ridge.

  1st May started form BC at 6am and reached 8200m at 6 pm; turned back in bad weathar that started at col (slight snowfall but big wind) where others were waiting for improvement; went alone to 8200m and then stopped (was also very cold) and down to BC; arrived BC 6 pm after having left bivouac at 8200m at 5 am on 2 May. Now decided not to continue climbing because expected permit not granted. Permit was actually granted (French ambassador was so informed) but Sonam of Thamserku Tkg and Ang Tshering of Sherpa Society gave a lot of money ($5000+) to Sachit Pant, a Tourism Ministry official, to induce him not to give written permission.

  Will not try to climb again in Nepal. Will concentrate upon Alps and spend more time with his children and will make training film about climbing. For his group for Everest for Autumn 1991: will suggest Pakistan or S America. "I have climbed Everest twice and I am happy" and has no more patience with Nepalese. On his return to France, he will inform authorities about 2 members of Sonam-Ang Tshering family working there illegally and (left BC 5th May) discuss with French trek organizers from using these agencies. Sonam and Ang Tshering are brothers; another brother Tendi works with Ang Tshering and he sent Batard a fax in France saying that if Batard did not employ their agency to represent him, he would not get his permit for Everest this spring.


  Miss Marie-Annick - 4 July 1991

  French ambassador was told on phone by tourism secretary that Batard would be granted Everest permit this spring. Batard had already left KTM for Khumbu but Maurice Uguen was still in town pressing for permit. Neither ambassador nor she talked in ministry.


  Bikram Pandey - 26 June 1991

  Trying till 28 June to get permit for Batard for autumn 1991. Pandey asked Batard to let him try for permit and Batard agreed recently but asked for outcome very soon.


  4 July 1991 - HMG has formed committee and their attitude is not very favorable, so telling Batard today [chances] for permit are not good.


  Ang Tshering (Sherpa Society) - 25 June 1991

  HMG has formed a committee of Tourism and Immigration officials to investigate Batard's activities. Fear his statements in France can harm flow of French tourists to Nepal - this is Tourism minister's ideas.


  Sachit Pant, Tourism Ministry - 9 May 1991

  Batard will not get permission for Everest for this spring, and permit he already had for autumn 1991 has been suspended and its restoration uncertain.

  Batard's photographer Maurice Uguen in April met and photographed Prime Minister Bhattarai and Ganesh Man Singh and spoke with both about pending spring permit. About 9 trekking agents informally met with PM who asked if they wanted charges of bribery of Tourism Ministry officials to go to Special Police Dept - they said they did not. Still, if Tourism gave permit when application had been filed only in April, bribery charges would become loud and clear.

  Autumn permit suspended after charges of Batard's beating Sonam Sherpa's wife (Pasang Lhamu) last autumn.


  Chris Hawthorne, Australian Everest - 8 May 1991

  Batard left BC early morning and got above C3 on Lhotse Face but got blown down to BC - about 1 May.
  Waiting for permit to make another try.
  Maurice and doctor at BC - other climber.


  Bikram Pandey, Amtrek - 2 May 1991
  Batard Everest:

  Sonam's letter of no objection applies to autumn 1991 not this spring. Sachit Pant of Tourism learned that Joint Secretary Pradhan had agreed orally to give Batard permit and immediately objected, raising possibility of bribery. There was a charge against Batard of "man-handling" Sonam's wife (Pasang Lhamu) as well as not allowing her to try for Everest summit last autumn.


  Pandey - 14 May 1991

  Joint Secretary actually put his full signature on Batard's application, giving permission, but Pant refused to let permit be typed out, told Secy that Sherpas would protest to the Secy and Pant could not be responsible for consequences; so Secretary held Batard file.


  Batard - 22 April 1991

  Tourism Ministry official to Bhola Rana of problem now about Batard's permit for Everest and Lhotse for this spring is that there is an allegation that he has been getting a lot of permits in recent years without waiting by bribing a tourism official who now is Joint Secretary in Tourism. Prime Minister Bhattarai says if permit is approved, he will send case to Special Police to investigate.


expid: EVER91115
peakid: EVER
year: 1991
route1: E Ridge (to NE Ridge)
nation: Japan
leaders: Shinichi Hirano
sponsor: Meiji University Alpine Club Qomolangma Expedition
approach: KTM->Tingri->Kharta->BC
bcdate: 1991-04-14
smtdate: 1991-05-05
termdate: 1991-05-16
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to extreme difficulty of route
campsites: BC(14/04,5400m),C1A(26/04,5900m),C1B(02/05,6100m),xxx(05/05,6400m)
accidents: None
achievment: 1st attempt of E Ridge
routememo:
  1st C1 at Kangshung Glacier
  2nd C1 at East Ridge
  High point at East Ridge.

  Very difficult and dangerous route to 1st site of C1 which had to place well below snowfield planned for this camp (and where it was later placed): very sharp rock ridge with many snow mushrooms. From 1st to 2nd C1 same problem plus huge crevasse on ridge. Above 2nd C1 more severe problems and took 4 days to reach 6400m; everyday could make only 2 or 3 trips with ice and snow becoming very loose in daytime; sharp ridge with steep ice face. "I don't think it is possible" to climb this ridge in reasonable time and becoming increasingly dangerous with pieces of mushrooms breaking off - even in colder weather would take very long time and Sherpas don't want to climb this route. Would have taken 1 or 2 more months to reach NE Ridge. One member joked they might reach summit by end of the year; stopped climb before some got hit by falling ice or had bad fall. 

  Left BC 16th May. Sent 2 Sherpas to Karta on 7th May to bring porters, who are very difficult people demanding higher and higher wages and want to walk only 2-3 hrs daily.


expid: EVER91111
peakid: EVER
year: 1991
route1: N Face (Great Couloir)
nation: Italy
leaders: Oreste Forno
sponsor: Longoni Sport Everest Expedition
ascent1: 121
countries: Czechoslovakia
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk Glacier
bcdate: 1991-04-04
smtdate: 1991-05-07
smttime: 1525
termdate: 1991-05-21
othersmts: Four briefly on Changtse
accidents: 2 serious frostbite cases (De Stefani and De Marchi); 1 cerebral edema (De Stefani)
campsites:
  ChineseBC(04/04),ABC(11/04,5550m),C1(15/04,6100m),C2(25/04,6900m),C3(27/04,7550m),C4(05/05,8350m),Smt(17/05)

routememo:
  BC at Rongbuk.

  De Marchi and De Stefani in 1st summit attempt made biv 7950m 4th May and on 5th reached 8350m and put camp there. 6th May stayed at C4 and on 7th De Stefani got cerebral edema and down that day with help from others. 8th reached C2 with De Stefani barely conscious. 9th to C1, 10th to Swedish ABC and their doctor (De Marchi exhausted and both feet frostbitten; De Stefani also frostbitten toes and will loose parts of 2 fingers). 11th Tibetans carried De Stefani to BC and Jeep took him and Thomaseth (to help him all the way to Italy) while De Marchi stayed at ABC few days longer. 

  On 14th May Banali and Sulovsky to C2, 15th to C3, 16th C4 and same evening fixed 40m above it. 17th left C4 7 am, took 2 hrs on 70m of rocks above (3m of it took most of this time: vertical rock) and Sulovsky on top 3:25 pm and Banali 15-20 minutes later. Weather clear till 2 pm when clouds came over and on top was snowing but no wind; 7 pm back to C4 and on down to C3 at 11 pm with only one ice ax between them (one dropped during ascent). 18th in C1 by 6 pm. 19th all in ABC and 20th in BC. 

  Above 3m vertical route was small couloir also very difficult. Route was much more difficult technically even to C4 than De Stefani expected, but fixed only 70m of rope (above C4).


expid: EVER91110
peakid: EVER
year: 1991
route1: NE Ridge (to 8000m)
route2: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Harold Taylor
sponsor: High Adventure Team - Everest 1991
ascent2: 124
countries: Australia, France, New Zealand, Norway, USA
approach: KTM->Tingri-Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 1991-04-03
smtdate: 1991-05-22
smttime: 1130
termdate: 1991-05-26
accidents: Lemaire serious frostbite in toes between C2 and C3 on N Ridge
campsites:
  BC(03/04,5200m),ABC(10/04,6400m),C2A(22/04,7400m),C3A(06/05,8000m),xxx(16/05,8000m); NColRte-C1(18/04,7000m),C2B(06/05,7800m),C3B(14/05,8300m),Smt(22/05)

routememo:
  BC  at road (normal Chinese BC)
  C1  at North Col
  C2A on NE Ridge (old C2 site)
  C3A at foot of Pinnacles on NE Ridge 
  C2B above N Col
  C3B just below North Ridge.

  8th May Barker tried for top from C2 and got to 8400m without oxygen (no members used oxygen) and turned back because too cold and down to C2. 

  On 5th Taylor and Brice to NE Ridge C1 and 16th to C2 at foot of pinnacles. Brice got sick so stayed 17th in camp and 18th down to ABC. This the end of NE Ridge attempt because running short of time. 

  20th Taylor and Brice to N Ridge C2 with 2 Sherpas and 21st to C3. 22nd made summit bid: Taylor and Brice climbed only 100m and turned back because of cold and 2 Sherpas, Ang Babu (Everest top 1990) and Chuldin, to summit with oxygen at 11:30 am; Sherpas and Taylor down to C2 on 22nd; Brice to ABC. 23rd ABC evacuated and left BC 26th. 

  Terrible winds: of 50-odd tents not one that doesn't need repairs; winds up to 120 km/hr at ABC and lost every tent. Redmond unable to make any attempt at paragliding.


expid: EVER91106
peakid: EVER
year: 1991
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Rick Wilcox
sponsor: 1991 American Everest Expedition
ascent1: 116
countries: Australia, Canada
bcdate: 1991-03-20
smtdate: 1991-05-15
smttime: 0835
termdate: 1991-05-20
campsites: BC(20/03,5350m),C1(01/04,6050m),C2(06/04,6500m),C3(30/04,7100m),C4(01/05,7900m),Smt(15/05)
accidents: Nothing serious
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Dropped loads at C3 22 April and then down to Pheriche for a week's rest as planned. 2nd May M Richey, Chauvin, Rugo and Wilcox reached C4. Evening of 1st and 2nd May 100 mph winds. 3rd May switched to "survival mode" and 2 frostbitten Australians taken into US tent and put them on oxygen; only about 11 am could descend and all down to C2, Then 1 week rest at BC. 

  9th May again up: Scott, Laforest, Sinclair, Wilcox, M Richey and Rugo to C2 (Chauvin turned back to BC tired from C1, others stayed at C2). Richey, Scott, Wilcox, Rugo, Laforest and Tshering Lhakpa left with them for summit (3 other Sherpas also, in support carrying loads). Sinchair to C3 only and Tshering Lhakpa turned back just above C3. Wilcox, Richey, Rugo and Laforest on C4 at 4 pm, assumed Scott had turned back, but at midnight had radio contact with BC and learned Scott had not arrived at any camp. Foursome had planned to go to top that night but now turned attention to finding Scott, who turned out to be lost at top of Geneva Spur and got him to C4 on oxygen and postponed summit attempt by one day; were really tired anyway so spent day resting using oxygen occasionally all day. Scott down on 14th. Midnight of 14th 4 left C4 in excellent weather for top while Sinclair up to C4 on 15th. Was still clear and low winds when got to top. Rugo ran out of oxygen in descent and arrived at C4 only at 6:00 pm and Wilcox at 7:00 pm, when wind and clouds had started closing in.


expid: EVER91104
peakid: EVER
year: 1991
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
route2: NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Eric Simonson
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Everest N Face Expedition 1991
ascent1: 117,120,123,125
countries: Australia, New Zealand
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 1991-03-13
smtdate: 1991-05-15
smttime: 1230
termdate: 1991-05-28
accidents: None
agency: Mountain Travel
campsites:
  BC(13/03,5150m),C119/03,5500m),C2(20/03,6100m),ABC(21/03,6500m),C4(30/03,7000m),C5(21/04,7600m),C6(07/05,8300m),Smt(15,17,21,24/05)

routememo:
  BC at road
  C3 at standard site
  C4 at North Col
  C5 on North Ridge
  C6 on North Face.

  Second Step is quite steep ("no way Mallory and Irvine climbed that route") and someone had left the ladder there which was very helpful. Month of April (that many high winds and took long time to manage to put in C5) had 4 summit bids. [On 1st bid Simonson, Dunn, Politz, Sloezen, Ang Dawa and Lhakpa Dorje summited on 15 May.]

  2nd one on 16th 4 members [Hahn, Huntington, Perry, Rheinberger] and 2 Sherpas [Ang Jangbu, Pasang Kami] got to First Step, turned back because of winds and all down except Perry, who stayed at C6 and summitted alone on 17th. 

  3rd group 6 members [Edwards, Frantz, Okita, Van Hoy, Whetu, Wilson] on 21st tried for top: Whetu and Okita went up to top with oxygen while other 4 without it turned back because of cold. Wilson was member of this 3rd group; stayed on at C6 three more nights and went to top alone on 24th, this time using oxygen and again one more night at C6.

  15th May summiters in chronological order: US Wilcox party; Simonson and 6 in order shown above (Simonson 12:30 pm NST); Ed Viesturs from south, who met Politz already on top; Swedish expedition's Sherpas.

  Lhakpa Dorje summited Everest with Canadians in 1982; this was Ang Dawa's first expedition to any mountain.

  Much hypocracy about climbing Everest alpine style: Robert Anderson and Marcus Schmucks's team talked about their alpine-style climbing, but they were given food and oxygen by Simonson's team and they used his team's tents.


expid: EVER91103
peakid: EVER
year: 1991
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Lobsang Tashi Sherpa
sponsor: 1991 First Sherpa Youth Everest Expedition
ascent1: 115 w/USA
bcdate: 1991-03-10
smtdate: 1991-05-08
smttime: 0900
campsites: BC(10/03,5350m),C1(28/03,6100m),C2(02/04,6500m),C3(21/04,7900m),Smt(08/05)
accidents: Lhakpa Gyalu broke leg April 2-3 in icefall collapse at 3:30 pm
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at Col.

  Sherpas made 3 unsuccessful summit bids with first one on 24th April and got to SE Ridge above SE face "when defeated by wind" as on next 2 tries. On 2nd try got near S Summit; 3rd really not an attempt (did not get out of C4 tents); this 3rd bid was about 2nd May. 

  Athans and Matous left C2 on 5 May for Lhotse summit and reached C3. Steve developed bad headache and used oxygen that night and 6th went down to C2 and Athans stayed at C3 to wait for Sherpas to mount their 4th Everest attempt. Athans and 3 Sherpas to C4 on 7th and to top on 8th, starting together but Athans fell behind struggling with video camera. Athans had left col at 2 am and Sherpas on top at 9:00 am and Athans 10:00 am on top (Sherpas waited at top for Athans) on cold and windy day. For Sherpas this was last summit bid; they were burned out.


  1 Feb 2006

  Nima Tashi is claiming summit success with this team. Apa Sherpa today confirmed that the only summiters were Sonam Dendu, Ang Temba and Apa himself. He is very certain about that.


expid: EVER91105
peakid: EVER
year: 1991
route1: N Face (Japanese & Hornbein Couloirs)
nation: Sweden
leaders: Jack Berg
sponsor: Svenska Everest Expedition 1991
ascent1: 119,122
bcdate: 1991-03-19
smtdate: 1991-05-15
smttime: 1500
accidents: 1 Sherpa's hand broken bare from falling stone; Cronlund frostbite
campsites:
  ChineseBC(19/03),ABC(24/03,5750m),C1(31/03,6150m),C2(10/04,6900m),C3(18/04,7350m),C4(29/04,7900m),C5(06/05,8250m),Smt(15,20/05)

routememo:
  Technically difficult route (1) from C1 to C2 and (2) from C5 in Hornbein Couloir: (1) section 60-80 degrees ice with stone fall on 50m section (had to climb early here) (2) difficult rock.

  3 summit attempts:

  1. Bidner and Mingma Norbu from C4; 7th May at C5 had problem with oxygen and stopped.

  2. 15th May Fagrell, Fredholm, Mingma Norbu and Gyalbu from C5; at 8650m Fredholm's oxygen finished and he descended. At 8800m Fagrell's oxygen finished and couldn't breath and half hour or more to top on ridge and windy on ridge, so Fagrell stopped while 2 Sherpas went to top and returned to Fagrell; all 4 slept at C5.

  3. 20th May Cronlund and 2 Sherpas from C5. 2 Sherpas dumped their oxygen bottles (full) at top of Hornbein Couloir as planned and descended. Cronlund went on as planned to summit; on Cronlund's descent he was in hurry because getting dark (at 7:00 pm darkness would come) and he went wrong at snowfield and could not find top of fixed ropes at top of couloir. He decided to stop where he was at 8600m with moonlight. He went around in circles most of night but 7:00 am he got up from having fallen asleep. All toes had frozen but may not loose any parts of them. No wind during night but in morning it was blowing and he had difficult time getting down to C5, from which one member climbed up to meet him at 8500m and help him to C5, where he stayed and where there was more oxygen.

  Now expedition decided to withdraw from mountain. Cronlund's ordeal through night of 20th was enough and expedition had succeeded.


expid: EVER91113
peakid: EVER
year: 1991
route1: N Col-NE Ridge (to 8550m)
route2: NE Ridge (to 7900m)
nation: Austria
leaders: Marcus Schmuck
sponsor: Austrian Everest Expedition
countries: Czechoslovakia, Germany, Italy, Switzerland
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 1991-04-07
smtdate: 1991-05-15
termnote: Abandoned at 8550m due to wind, destruction of too many tents
campsites: BC(07/04),ABC(17/04,6400m),C1(20/04,7000m),C2(06/05,7800m),C3(14/05,8370m),xxx(15/05,8550m)
accidents: One fatality (Lang)
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C3 just below North Ridge
  High point just below First Step.

  Very strong wind above col and very cold. 2 members up to 8550m on 15th May in summit bid but cold wind forced retreat and couldn't continue because too many tents destroyed. C2 destroyed 8th May (was 1 tent) and C1 alredy destroyed and replaced by cave. The 2 members left ABC 12 May carrying 20 kg each of all gear needed for summit bid. Team left ABC 16th to leave Tibet and 18th from BC. All members brought their own tents, sleeping bags, etc "just like with Alps." 

  Lang tried to climb new way to N Ridge via couloir directly south of ABC (without going west to N Col and start of N Ridge). Lang was alone. Started from ABC 1 May and reached 7100m in couloir. 2 May got to 7600m and then weather changed dramatically: wind, snow and very cold and could occasionally be seen moving slowly. 3 May got to 7900m still in couloir; died at this biv. No one went to him because of weather. 7th May could again see his biv and a sitting fixed sleeping bag but face not visible. Have given 4 May as date of death but really didn't know when he died; he was good climber but too impatient to wait for good weather (had been to 8550m on Everest via S Col 2-3 years ago on international expedition, had succeeded on Gasherbrum I and II and was now trying to do the summit).


expid: EVER88302
peakid: EVER
year: 1988
route1: N Face (Japanese & Hornbein Couloirs)
nation: France
leaders: Benoit Chamoux
sponsor: L'Esprit d'Equipe - 1988 Everest
countries: Czechoslovakia, Italy, USA
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 1988-08-16
smtdate: 1988-09-16
termdate: 1988-09-23
termnote: Abandoned at 8650m due to bad weather
accidents: Boyer slight edema
campsites:
  ChineseBC(14/08,5200m),BC(16/08,5600m),C1(23/08,6200m),C2(27/08,7200m),C3(30/08,7850m),xxx(16/09,8650m)

routememo:
  C2 at bivs above near top of Japanese Couloir
  C3 below Hornbein Couloir (2 hours below, 3 tents)
  High point at West Ridge.

  From BC 6th Sept 1st summit bid and stopped at 8200m because very cold. Boyer, Chamoux, Campredon, Parmentier, Rakoncaj, Rossi, Sichap, Dorotei, Tournaire and 2 Sherpas so back to C3. Then down in bad weather. 

  Next summit bid 13th Sep from BC and got on 16th Sep to 8600m at 3 pm, too high for biv without frostbite with no oxygen; had no rope [Dorotei to 8300m, Boyer to 8450m, Rossi and Chamoux to 8650m, Rakonaj and Camredon to c8600m, Tournaire and Parmentier to c8600m].

  Here technically difficult at W Ridge. Down to C3 on 16th and 3 of them to BC on 17th while Parmentier stayed in C3 with plan to solo to top in good weather. From 17th to 24th snow fall daily and very cold and windy (constant snow). Parmentier 17-18th in C3, 19th up and pitched small tent at 8200m, 20th up in Hornbein's deep snow. At 1 pm his track seen to 8400m, then cloudy and no further contact on sighting (21st briefly clear and even track not seen). 

  22nd up from BC Chamoux, Campredon and Rakoncaj in 3rd summit bid and C1 very windy and down to BC next day and climb finished. Last members on mountain left Chinese BC 27th. Snowfall had brought avalanche danger (which probably took Parmentier).


  Lluis Belvis (Spanish Everest) - 20 Oct 1988 (regarding Parmentier's death)

  Members of this expedition found Parmentier at 7700m about 50m beside his tent. They speculate that he had been unable to find the tent and froze to death (unable because of bad weather probably). Body found in early Oct.


expid: TLNG91101
peakid: TLNG
year: 1991
route1: NW Face-W Face
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Tone Skarja
sponsor: Slovene Himalayan Expedition to Kangchenjunga & Jannu
ascent1: 2nd
bcdate: 1991-04-12
smtdate: 1991-04-20
smttime: 1200
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),Smt(20/04)
primid: KANG91102
othersmts:
  Climbed Kangchenjunga (KANG-911-02), Kangchenjunga Central (KANC-911-01), Kangchenjunga South (KANS-911-01); attempted Jannu (JANE-911-01)

routememo:
  From Kangchenjunga BC, 19 April Marko and Stremfelj left BC for Talung and made biv at 6500m up NW Face to west slopes. 20th to summit by Marko and 50m below by Stremfelj because strong winds and back to BC: left BC 8:30 am, on top 12:00 pm and with good snow conditions but high winds (had been some hard ice between serac below biv and crevasses also, below with just one bridge) and back at BC 5:00 pm same day, very tired.


expid: YALU88301
peakid: YALU
year: 1988
route1: SE Couloir (French 1984 Autumn rte)
nation: Spain
leaders: Jesus Mari Bereziartua Extaniz
sponsor: Azpeitia 1988
ascent1: 13th
bcdate: 1988-09-11
smtdate: 1988-10-11
smttime: 1300
termdate: 1988-10-12
campsites: BC(11/09,5300m),C1(23/09,6100m),C2(26/09,6800m),C3(02/10,7200m),C4(04/10,7800m),Smt(11/10)
accidents: Leader hit by falling stone which left him unconscious 10 minutes
achievment: 1st Spaniards (Basque) to summit
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  BC at glacier northwest of Talung and southeast of point 5520m on Yoshino map
  C4 below couloir which climbed.

  After making C4, bad weather (snow and strong wind) so all down to BC. 2 days in BC, then 8th Oct to C1, 5 members and 2 Sherpas. 9th Oct 1st team to C4 and 2nd team to C3. 11th Oct 3 members and 2 Sherpas towards summit in strong cold wind (-25 degrees at C4). Sherpas turned back at 8100m and at 8300m a member hit by falling stone which penetrated his hat and down to C4 with a member to help him. Iriarte was ahead and unaware of Bereziartua's accident so carried on to summit, which reached at 1 pm. On 11th Urbieta arrived at C4 while others of 2nd team stayed in C3; climb finished now. 

  Others including Sherpas not in good condition, leader injured and weather not so good; many falling stones in couloir, route not technically difficult and safe to C4.

  22 days to reach BC from Dharan because of earthquake damage to road and trails; 5 days to KTM from BC.


expid: LHOT89102
peakid: LHOT
year: 1989
route1: SE Buttress-S Face (to 7200m)
route2: S Face (Polish rte) (to 7200m)
nation: Italy
leaders: Reinhold Messner
sponsor: Lhotse S Face Expedition
countries: France, Poland, Spain, Switzerland
bcdate: 1989-04-10
smtdate: 1989-04-27
termdate: 1989-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to snow conditions at late time in spring
othersmts: Were actually on Lhotse Shar
campsites: BC(10/04,5250m),C1(16/04,5900m),C2(21/04,6700m),C3(27/04,7100m),xxx(17/05,7100m)
accidents: Kammerlander injured leg but continued to climb; Losso slight frostbite
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC on west side of Lhotse Glacier
  C1 at saddle between Island Peak and Lhotse/Lhotse Shar
  C2 on SE Buttress
  C3 on face from Buttress
  xxx at C3.

  Arizzi and Cormier unable to go to C2 and left early. Took only safe line by going far to right onto SE Buttress. Alpine style in good clear weather without snow on face is safe direction. Messner put C2 - made an intermediate camp which at end was called C3. Messner had hoped to place C3 at 7500m and from there for attempt on summit with one bivouac at 7800-8000m. At beginning almost all sick with only 2 Poles and Kammerlander working. Lost a week to 10 days here and when bad weather came at 13 May were not in position. Profit and Kammerlander went up to C3 after Messner and 2 Sherpas had placed summit gear at this camp. 

  Profit and Kammerlander started from BC 10 and 12 May to C3 on 13th for summit push on 15th. Profit in early May had done to traverse left from C3 with Hajzer and they reached to Polish route. On 13th night snowfall began and Profit and Kammerlander down to BC. Now every day fell.

  2 Poles [Hajzer and Wielicki] started from BC on 12 May up Polish route, carrying all gear and did approx 500m/day and in 4 days reached 7100m on this route but now weather stopped them, did risky traverse to C3, where slept night of 16th and to BC on 17th. 

  Lucas and Profit tried again via SE Buttress. Left BC 18th in slightly better weather. On 19th in C3. Lucas tired and down immediately; Profit tried traverse but too much snow there and he also down. Neither slept C3. Was again snowing and reached clear and windy weather for 3-4 days to clear it.


  Cormier - 29 Apr 89

  Left Lhotse expedition BC on 24 April because too much fighting amongst members. Face has no snow and is very windy. Route is via Lhotse Shar with long traverse above 7200m to Lhotse Face Polish route. Route too long and not interesting.


expid: ANN189102
peakid: ANN1
year: 1989
route1: NW Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Reinhard Patscheider
sponsor: Reinhard Patscheider Annapurna 1989
countries: W Germany
bcdate: 1989-04-22
smtdate: 1989-04-24
termdate: 1989-04-30
termnote: Abandoned at 5200m due to shoulder injury
campsites: BC(22/04,4000m),C1(24/04,5200m),xxx(30/04,5200m)
accidents: Patscheider dislocated his left shoulder and later bruised his back
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Messner BC site
  C1 at beginning of NW Face 
  High point at C1.

  Everyday snow, wind storm and cold. Went to C1 but did not sleep in tent he pitched there on 24th April. Because of heavy snowfall, had fixed 20m rope and came down to BC same day. Had to stay in BC 5 days because of storm, falling stones and many snow avalanches which came through C1 and broke tent. 

  30th April returned to C1 on first possible day and found tent broken, so down to BC. Tried to fly by parapente but blown only 1 minute and wind caused crash landing at 5000m (same place where had been on 23rd and had successful parapented to BC with same wind problem that closed but again opened parapente). Shoulder dislocated in crash landing. He relocated shoulder against rock and reached BC after 5:00 pm in beginning snowstorm. 3 or 4 May up to C1 to bring down gear there. In descent one piton came out from face and he fell 15m from 4800m and bruised his back. Cook had came part of the way to help bring down the gear and they came slowly down together to BC (but cook not helping Patscheider to descend).


expid: DHA189103
peakid: DHA1
year: 1989
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Chile
leaders: Mauricio Purto
sponsor: Chilean Expedition to Dhaulagiri 1
approach: Marpha->Dhampus & French Passes
bcdate: 1989-04-22
smtdate: 1989-05-11
termdate: 1989-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 7170m due to bad weather and team's lack of strength
othersmts: Tukuche, SW summit (6990m) to acclimatize
campsites: BC(22/04,4650m),C2(27/04,5650m),C3(02/05,6400m),C4(10/05,7150m),xxx(11/05,7170m)
accidents: Purto bronchitis
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 none
  C2 at C2 normal site - NE Col
  C3 at 50m above start of NE Ridge
  C4 at end of snow ridge and 100m below start of traverse
  High point at top of snow ridge.

  On 6th May [Purto and Casassa] down from C3 at 6400m to C2 because cloudy, snowing and windy; leader Purto to BC, other 2 climbers [Casassa and Ang Phurba] in C2. 9th May one member [Valle] up to meet Casassa in C2 and on up to C3 and then retreated because bad weather. 10th May 2 members [Valle and Casassa] to C4 (Purto not well enough now to go up) and 11th May up only 20m and down to C2. Climb finished because few climbers now too tired to continue. Arrived BC 14th May.

  Casassa decided he was finished, Valle wanted to try again but Purto not strong enough and Sherpas didn't want to go up. Had already had 3 attempts for summit and needed time to recover.


expid: ANNS89101
peakid: ANNS
year: 1989
route1: E Pillar-N Summit (to 6000m)
route2: NE Face-N Ridge (to 5800m)
nation: UK
leaders: Jonathan Garratt
sponsor: Annapurna S Expedition
bcdate: 1989-04-12
smtdate: 1989-05-10
termdate: 1989-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to much snowfall and illness
campsites: BC(12/04,4200m),C1(21/04,5280m),C2(07/05,5980m),xxx(10/05,6000m)
accidents: Nothing serious but lot of minor illnesses
agency: Rover Treks
routememo:
  BC at Annapurna Sanctuary
  High point at East Pillar.

  2m+ snow at BC where team arrived there; almost continuous bad weather till 8th May. 1st 2 days very heavy snowfall continued. Most days snow began at midday. 5th May put C2 in place and down to C1 with the plan to go back up next day. Had lot of illness amongst members. 3 times one member went to C1 to go up to C2 but never was able to make it and Griffin had to go below BC with chest infection. C2 actually first occupied on 7 May and in next days were getting supplies up in order to go for summit from there. 4 members went up to C1 14 May for summit bid, 2 ill and down and 2 actually got to C2 and then also down on 15th. Weather still not settled and 1 of them left BC 19th. 

  On 11 May high point of 6000m had been reached on 1st route. 1st route's pillar had apparently been tried before and locals said a tent had been found which had been placed by 3 Japanese who were never seen again. Route in bad condition till end of climbing period and illness meant could seldom get more than two on mountain at same time.

  Griffin and Tinker tried alpine-style go at the Japanese route: started from BC on 19th and climbed at night, only time weather cleared and reached 5800m 21st night, sat there because of snowfall and 22nd to BC. 


expid: ANN189103
peakid: ANN1
year: 1989
route1: N Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Peter Woergotter
sponsor: Austrian OST Annapurna Expedition
bcdate: 1989-04-30
smtdate: 1989-05-04
termdate: 1989-05-06
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to team too small, not enough rope etc., and too much snow
campsites: BC(30/04,4250m),C1(03/05,5100m),xxx(04/05,5800m)
accidents: None
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at normal site
  High point at C2 normal site.

  Too small a team, not enough equipment and too much snow on glacier. Wanted to do Dutch route, but too difficult 80-100m icefall that way. Returned to BC 4th May. 5th May cleared C1 and 6th May left BC.


expid: DHA189102
peakid: DHA1
year: 1989
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Carlos Galan Coll
sponsor: Malgrat to Dhaulagiri
bcdate: 1989-03-26
smtdate: 1989-05-01
termdate: 1989-05-03
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to snow conditions
campsites: BC(26/03,4700m),C1(25/04,5600m),C2(29/04,6400m),C3(01/05,7200m),xxx(01/05,7200m)
accidents: None
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at NE col
  C2 at start of ridge
  C3 at end of ridge
  High point at C3.

  Spent one month in BC because an agent refused to let Italians climb at same time on same route despite fact Italians only 2 men in 1 tent. 4 days in C1 because snowing. Bad weather continued after C2 established but did make C3 and waited there one more day; but too much snow for night traverse to C4 site (too much avalanche danger here) so went down to BC on 3 May from C3 and climb finished. All 3 men climbed together; 2 Spanish and Ang Rita Sherpa.


expid: HIMW89101
peakid: HIMW
year: 1989
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Stephen (Steve) Bell
sponsor: International Himalchuli Expedition
ascent1: 2nd,3rd
countries: Australia, Hong Kong, New Zealand, Norway
bcdate: 1989-05-09
smtdate: 1989-05-30
smttime: 0930
campsites: BC(09/05,4500m),C1(15/05,5800m),C2(26/05,6100m),C3(29/05,6550m),Smt(30/05,01/06)
accidents: None
agency: Amtrek/Rover Treks
routememo:
  BC at Meme Pokhari
  C1 at snow flat area on SW Ridge which here was mostly rocky
  C2 at base of large snow basins
  C3 at base of ice cliffs.

  Lots of bad weather between 9th and 15th and again heavy snowfall on 27th, when 3m snow accumulated and was necessary to go down 3m into hole to enter C2's tent; on 29th night fixed ropes through ice cliff in bid to go to top and of these Gangdal and Bayne bived at 7000m, the high point reached in bad weather that day, while others down to C3. 

  On 30th Gangdal and Bayne to summit and down to C2. 31st Brice and Mercer left C3 at midnight in thunder and lightning storm which provided good light and were on top 7:30 am of 1 June and back to C2 at 11:00 am; no more attempts because some not acclimatized and others too tired.

  SW Ridge is long and somewhat technically difficult route; fixed 3500m rope.

  Joint commercial expedition by Himalayan Kingdoms (UK) and High Country Expeditions (NZ).


expid: LAMJ89101
peakid: LAMJ
year: 1989
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yoshiaki Sugiyama
sponsor: 1989 Nagasaki Asagiri Club Expedition to Lamjung Himal
approach: Marshyangdi Khola->Chame
bcdate: 1989-03-21
smtdate: 1989-04-22
termdate: 1989-04-24
termnote: Abandoned at 5950m due to bad weather (deep snow and wind)
othersmts: Climbed Pisang Peak
campsites: BC(21/03,3600m),C1(01/04,4575m),C2(05/04,5270m),xxx(22/04,5850m)
accidents: Miss Yumiko altitude sickness at C1
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC 6 hours south of Chame
  C1 on SE Ridge
  C2 at Col of knife ridge
  High point at SE Ridge.

  C1 to C2 depots at 4930m and 5000m because very long way between camps since no place for camp before site they used; made route halfway to C3 site, 200m to C3 and then no more due to bad weather, deep snow, high winds. 3 times went up to climb and three times forced down by weather. Left BC 24th April.


expid: MANA89103
peakid: MANA
year: 1989
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Keith Brown
sponsor: Phoenix Expedition to Manasalu
countries: USA
bcdate: 1989-04-17
smtdate: 1989-05-07
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to Suarez's death
campsites: BC(17/04,3700m),C1(20/04,5050m),C2(22/04,5700m),C3(05/05,6300m),C4(06/05,7000m),xxx(07/05,7300m)
accidents: Quinterio slipped 150m but not hurt; Suarez fatal fall at 7100m
agency: Sherpa Trekking Service (STS)
routememo:
  BC at normal site above Samagaon
  C1 on glacier
  C2 on glacier
  C3 above glacier on east side
  C4 on ridge.

  Climb going very well and planned summit bid on 8th or 9th May. Had all supplies necessary with them for C5 and four were strong. Suddenly Suarez was no longer just behind as they arrived at C5 site. "It was a clean expedition and everything was OK." No idea why he fell; he was just arriving at C5 site, only couple of meters behind others when he disappeared. He fell at 1:30 pm; slope was not steep (30 degrees) and he was on hard ice with both crampons OK; fell 500m and killed by fall ("head and everything was broken"). Could see his body from C5 site, reached him 2-3 hours later and buried him in crevasse at 6800m same day.

  19 May: Brown believes Suarez fell because of cerebral edema and dehydration. Night before his death Suarez had headache. He and other Spaniards were not taking lots of liquids to hydrate themselves. Iraola also probably had edema and hypothermia on day Suarez fell.


expid: LANG89101
peakid: LANG
year: 1989
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yasuo Katsuyama
sponsor: Hosei University Langtang Lirung Expedition 1989
bcdate: 1989-03-01
smtdate: 1989-03-18
termdate: 1989-03-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6030m due to fatal avalanche
campsites: BC(01/03,4700m),C1(07/03,5600m),xxx(21/03,6030m)
accidents: Fatal avalanche killed 3 Japanese climbers
agency: Trans Himalayan Trekking (THT)
routememo:
  BC at Lirung Glacier (500m above normal site)
  C1 on SE Ridge.
  High point at C2 site where snow field began on SE Ridge.

  C2 site reached only on 18th March because one week heavy snowfall. Fixed rope to this site, then down to BC for rest. 4 members and 2 Sherpas to C1 on 18th March, so in BC 8 Japanese now. Each day in fact some members carrying loads to C1. 

  On 21st March 8 Japanese and 2 Sherpas carrying to C1 with 4 to stay in C1; these 4 were Nishimara, Kuwashina, Matsumoto and sirdar. At about 4900m (1 hr walk from BC) avalanche at 10:43 am hit 4 members: Futami, Hisamoto and Kuwashina swept away; Matsumoto hit but not injured; Nishimura also in group but not hit. Avalanche started by small ice which hit snow slabs and slab came down; avalanche carried 400m down and over 20m ice cliff; 10 men in line on 21st; 1st 2 not touched and last 4 not touched (Nishimura last man).

  10:43 avalanche struck Matsumoto, Futami, Kuwashina and Hisamoto; if 1 min later Nishimura dead. At 11:00 Nishimura found Futami's body (left arm stuck out of snow); sirdar found Kuwashina's body. At 4:30 pm Nishimura and 2 Sherpas left BC and arrived KTM 22 March 11:30 pm; others still in BC to search for Hisamoto whose rucksack and goggles found, until 15th April if necessary. Helicopter 28th or 29th March to bring bodies to KTM; families of dead arrived KTM 27th March.


expid: TILI89101
peakid: TILI
year: 1989
route1: NE Spur-N Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Christian Baillet
sponsor: French Himalayan Expedition to Tilicho
ascent1: 13th
approach: Manang
bcdate: 1989-04-15
smtdate: 1989-04-23
smttime: 1000
campsites: BC(15/04,4950m),C1(17/04,5850m),C2(19/04,6350m),Smt(23/04)
accidents: None
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at north end of Tilicho Lake
  C1 at snow slope just below point where spur meets ridge
  C2 at junction of spur.

  Laot reached summit because is very strong climber but had difficulty returning to C1 because of snow and cloud. Was very windy that day, which was why Baillet and Ongel Sherpa turned back at 6920m. 

  Technically difficult: 1st section of spur of snow-covered ice. C1 to C2 60 degrees and ice slope with 30m of 80 degrees. Last part of route again steep (50 degrees) snow-covered ice to 6800m, where is ice in difficult rocks.


expid: MANA89101
peakid: MANA
year: 1989
route1: E Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Oscar Piazza
sponsor: Manaslu 1989 Trentino Expedition
approach: Via Samagaon
bcdate: 1989-04-02
smtdate: 1989-05-01
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to snow & wind
campsites: BC(02/04,4600m),C1(12/04,5600m),C2(28/04,6850m),xxx(01/05,7300m)
accidents: None
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC below north side of East Ridge
  C1 on East Ridge
  C2 at plateau before East Pinnacle
  High point northeast of East Pinnacle.

  After made BC, had heavy snowfall so C1 only possible 10 days later. Fixed rope in couloir to get onto ridge and on ridge itself which very difficult rock requiring 300m rope. Had depot at 6250m where slept one night while moving gear. Route to C2 was north of E Ridge, just before ridge goes steeply up to E Pinnacle. From C2 tried twice for bivouac from which to go to summit (biv to be at about 7500m), but snow and wind defeated both attempts.


expid: DHA189104
peakid: DHA1
year: 1989
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Oreste Forno
sponsor: Citta di Oggiono Expedition to Dhaulagiri
ascent1: 37th
bcdate: 1989-04-25
smtdate: 1989-05-11
smttime: 1145
othersmts: Attempted Everest after Dhaulagiri climb (DHA1-891-04)
campsites: BC(25/04,4600m),C1(26/04,5700m),C2(02/05,6400m),C3(05/05,7000m),C4(10/05,7500m),Smt(11/05)
accidents: Zani fell in crevasse and hurt chest
agency: Trekking International
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at NE Col
  C2 at beginning of ridge steep slope
  C3 3/4 up slope
  C4 at normal site.

  No more on top because bad weather coming after 11th: everything set for Forno & Mandinelli to go to top, but would have had to wait few days & news came that Tibet opening. Wanted to climb Everest from Tibet, their original goal.

  Snow very bad; much snowfall few days before 11th May & slab avalanche danger. Highest point of Dhaulagiri is really all rock & many photos by "summiters" taken below this point.

  Argentinians left terrible mess of rubbish including medicine at BC.


expid: DHA189105
peakid: DHA1
year: 1989
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Jos Dewint
sponsor: Dhaulagiri Expedition 1989
countries: Netherlands
bcdate: 1989-05-05
smtdate: 1989-05-17
termdate: 1989-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to alititude sickness
othersmts: Attempted Makalu (MAKA-891-01)
campsites: BC(05/05,4700m),C1(10/05,5800m),C2(11/05,6550m),C3(17/05,7200m),xxx(17-18/05,7200m)
accidents: Moreau altitude sickness
agency: Asian Trekking
primid: MAKA89101
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at NE Col
  C2 on NE Ridge
  C3 on NE Ridge
  High point at C3.

  7 Belgians climbed on Dhaulagiri. Le Bon and Mousny established C1 and C2 and Dewint and Moreau enlarged C2 and made next camp. In high camps used standing tents of Argentine and Chilean teams. 19th early morning down from C3. Dewint and Moreau had intended to go for top but Moreau got altitude sickness and slept all day, so these 2 the only in C3 on 17th; down to C1 (Moreau, who was brought down by 2 Sherpas on 20th) and to BC (Dewint). Others who were already down had decided not to go up again. 

  Van Doorsselaere arrived from Makalu on 22nd but felt much too great danger in crevasses on glacier in warm weather and breaking snow bridges. Dewint discouraged by avalanching. Left BC 22 May in fog and snowfall; Le Bon and Moreau had left BC 21 May. 

  Dewint and a Sherpa discussed going up but Sherpa's motivation was to earn money from gear he could bring down and then avalanching and glacier's condition convinced Dewint not to go up.


expid: DHA189101
peakid: DHA1
year: 1989
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Argentina
leaders: Raul Uranga
sponsor: Argentine Expedition Himalaya 1989 - to Dhaulagiri I
approach: Myagdi Khola
bcdate: 1989-03-20
smtdate: 1989-04-10
termdate: 1989-04-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7180m due to constant bad weather
campsites: BC(20/03,4600m),C1(23/03,5100m),C2(02/04,5700m),C3(04/04,6680m),C4(10/04,7180m),xxx(23/04,7180m)
accidents: Some frostnip and bronchitis
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC at base of icefall between Tukuche and Dhaulagiri I
  C1 above icefall
  C2 at NE Col
  C3 on NE Ridge
  C4 on NE Ridge (summit of rocky ridge)
  High point at C4.

  Everyday storms: snow and winds up to 200 kph occasionally. Was great experience but maybe too early arrival (was very cold and stormy) and team not so strong. C4 destroyed twice by wind, C3 also destroyed by snow. Were worn out going up and down because of destruction and replacement of equipment. Fixed rope all route from C3 and C4 and a lot of route from BC to C1. Left BC 26th April.

  Expedition had originally been 9 members with 4 from Buenos Aires who organized it and 4 from mountains who are stronger climbers. When Argentinian currency devalued 60%, only half members could come and they were the people who had worked hard to organize it. None of those who came were sufficently strongly motivated to go for top on his own with couple of Sherpas.


expid: CHOY89103
peakid: CHOY
year: 1989
route1: S Buttress-SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Chi Yoon-Soo
sponsor: Korean Premonsoon Cho Oyu Exped Edelweisse Alpine Club 1989
bcdate: 1989-04-27
smtdate: 1989-05-09
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to crevasse and stonefall
campsites: BC(27/04,5200m),C1(30/04,5800m),C2(04/05,6000m),C3(08/05,6200m),xxx(09/05,6600m)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Adventure Nepal
routememo:
  BC at Gyazumpa 
  C1 same as Swiss C1
  High point at 6600m on buttress.

  Crossed icefall to C2, which placed on farther West Buttress than planned because planned buttress too dangerous from stone fall and strong wind. From C2 to C3 was icefall; above C3 at 6600m found 8m wide crevasse. Tried to go round crevasse but falling stone from bare rocks; climb finished. On 9 May one stone hit left arm of Cho and thought it broken.


expid: THAM89101
peakid: THAM
year: 1989
route1: E Face-S Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Hooman Aprin
sponsor: Him-Kooh American Thamserku Expedition
countries: Canada
bcdate: 1989-04-02
smtdate: 1989-04-14
termnote: Abandoned at 5940m due to rotten rocks and Culver's decision to leave
campsites: BC(02/04,4200m),C1(06/04,4570m),C2(09/04,5240m),C3(11/04,5760m),xxx(14/04,5940m)
accidents: None
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Kyashar Glacier between Kusum Kanguru and base of S Ridge of Thamserku
  C1 at lateral moraine of Kyashar Glacier at base of East Face
  C2 on East Face towards S Ridge
  C3 just beside S Ridge (no room on North Ridge to camp).

  Vos kicking steps in rock on 50 ft section powdery rock. From C2 all technical climbing and from here fixed rope (up entire route above). From C3 down to BC to rest (had colds). 13th from BC to C2, where almost smashed by large boulder that came down 1.5m from tent. 14th to C3, ate lunch started climbing S Ridge. Aprin climbed 500-600 ft (found Korean's rope) and got to stack of flakes totally loose; too dangerous and it simply came away. Culver had said he would quit by 16th. All snow and ice gear useless because only rock and had completely used up rock gear. Seems to be a pattern of glacier melting and rock bare on Nepalese mountains. 

  Aprin would have tried on alternate line on smooth rock face, but Culver determined to leave.


expid: AMAD89103
peakid: AMAD
year: 1989
route1: NE Spur (to 5700m)
route2: SW Ridge (to 6740m)
nation: Australia
leaders: Michael Groom
sponsor: Australian Ama Dablam/N Ridge Expedition
countries: New Zealand
bcdate: 1989-04-11
smtdate: 1989-05-11
termnote: Abandoned at 6740m due to poor snow conditions
accidents: None; 2 members left early because of home-sickness
agency: Kunga (Nima)
campsites:
  BC(11/04,5100m),xxx(26/04,5700m); BC2(28/04,4850m),C1(29/04,6100m),C2(03/05,6350m),C3(10/05,6500m),xxx(11/05,6740m)

routememo:
  BC  at Ama Dablam Glacier ENE of mountain
  BC2 at Churo (normal West Face BC)
  C1  at normal site from SW Ridge
  C2  on SW Ridge
  C3  on SW Ridge
  High point on West Face of normal route.

  26th April reached high point of 5700m on NE spur leading to N Ridge; fixed 250m rope but found route too technical for most members. So abandoned NE on 26th without having any bivouacs or camps on this route and sought permit for SW Ridge and went around to Churo (no water at normal SW route BC and Americans still there).

  29th April-3rd May made biv at 6350m at normal C2 site. Only 4 got there: 4 members rested 4-10th May at BC. 9th May up to biv site which really was C2 (3 up to C2, one member stayed at BC). 11th May other 3 members moved onto W Face from SW Ridge. Pickering stopped at 6600m because of altitude sickness/nerves while 2 members carried on up to 6740m at 4:30 pm and then turned around because of late time, snow sugary and called it quits. Too risky on last 60m in sugary snow with only ice seracs. Groom felt cold in his amputated toes and fingers (frostbitten on Kangchenjunga a year and a half ago).


expid: AMAD89102
peakid: AMAD
year: 1989
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Wendy Ostgaard
sponsor: Colorado Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: UK
bcdate: 1989-04-06
smtdate: 1989-04-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6460m due to unsafe route without greater supply of rope
campsites: BC(06/04,4900m),C1(14/04,5800m),C2(17/04,6000m),xxx(20/04,6460m)
accidents: Ostgaard serious eye trouble and left BC Apr 14
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC as same as US-UK expedition's BC (new and higher normal site)
  High point at base of West Face from SW Ridge.

  High point reached 11:30 20 Apr. Had used up all rope, but blue ice above let them "not feel safe soloing." Stopped climb because of this and face that had loose rock above C2 which led to decision not to go through this area after carrying loads to any C3, but to go alpine-style above C2. There was some rock fall from this, but helmets were good protection (and very much indeed in spring time).


expid: CHOY89101
peakid: CHOY
year: 1989
route1: SW Ridge-W Face
route2: SW Pillar-W Face up; W Ridge-W Face down
nation: USA
leaders: Carlos Buhler
sponsor: International Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent2: 61st
countries: Spain
bcdate: 1989-03-09
smtdate: 1989-04-08
accidents: None (Kearney sick and did no climbing)
agency: Everest Trekking
campsites:
  BC(19/03,5200m),ABC(23/03,5400m),Biv1(04/04,6100m),Biv2(05/04,6680m),Biv3(06/04,7000m),Biv4(07/04,7480m),Smt(08/04)

routememo:
  BC  at Nangpa Glacier at Kangshung (long way from foot of mountain)
  C1  on glacier
  1st biv directly at bottom of SW Buttress
  2nd biv on buttress
  3rd biv on buttress
  4th biv where buttress joins normal route on west side.

  Buttress that was attempted in Aut 1987 by Udall's American expedition was original objective, and Buhler and Zabaleta took a look at them, but they were too difficult for a 2-man team, too dangerous and "so far from the summit."

  So went for Poles 1986 SW Buttress. Did some acclimatization climbing before their push up the buttress. After had established C1 on 25 March there was a storm for 5 days in BC. Then acclimatization climb to 6000m. Started alpine-style push for summit on 4 April, got to top on 8th from 4th bivouac at 7480m and back to this biv to sleep night of 8th there. On 9 April descended NW Ridge (normal route in Tibet) to 5840m (via Nangpa La); was "incredibly cold" and Buhler worried about frostbite but did not suffer any.

  On his return from Cho Oyu, Buhler told PM Shrestha in Tourism Ministry he had broken his promise not to cross border into Tibet. Shrestha not deeply concerned.

  Kearney got pulmonary edema below BC and was at BC only 31 March to 4 April when other 2 were in Tibet.

  Sirdar Lhakpa Dorje sick a lot and left the expedition early, back just at end.


expid: AMAD89101
peakid: AMAD
year: 1989
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: William (Bill) O`Connor
sponsor: 25th Anniversary Mountain Travel Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: USA
bcdate: 1989-03-24
smtdate: 1989-04-12
termdate: 1989-04-14
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to route difficulty, lack strong commitment and time
campsites: BC(24/03,5000m),C1(27/03,5800m),C2(09/04,6100m),xxx(12/04,6400m)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC at high site above Mingbo airstrip
  C1 on SW Ridge
  C2 at 2nd tower on ridge
  High point at Mushroom ridge.

  No fixed ropes or pitons to be found in place from previous expedition to end of Mushroom Ridge (C3) because they are constantly cleared by Sherpas. A lot of snow at BC area but ridge looked reasonably clear. All up to C1 on 28th (O'Connor and Sherpas day before), stayed 29th again C1 also while O'Connor and Sherpas fixed ropes above to the Pinnacle with little snow on ridge; fixed rope to Yellow Tower and made a dump before Yellow Tower where some expeditions place a C2. Put this team's C2 atop the next tower on 30th, but down to C1 same day. 31st snow started falling and down to BC. Snowed all next day and night and 2 members decided to leave BC for villages to let weather clear, but didn't clear for 4 days. 

  Back up through deep snow returning to base on 5th April, where was 2 ft of snow, with winds clearing snow off the ridge. On 6th started making track above BC; got to C1 on 7th. 9th C2 occupied, 10th tried to reach C3 without success (O'Connor ill). Dead body (Charles Eckenfelder) found just above C2 (Spring 1988 Canadian). 11th O'Connor to C2 while others again up with rock falling and morale low. 12th O'Connor, Selzman and 2 Sherpas went up the couloir and beyond other's high point of 2 previous days and on along Mushroom Ridge in stone fall period to very close to C3 site and ran out of rope (Sherpas by now had stopped coming up). Pretty steep green ice and more of it above which would take 2 days to fix and party not skilled enough to make ropeless fast ascent. So time running out, morale weak and skill insufficent for going for it without fixing. Anyway next day it snowed though could have carried on, but "team had run out of steam." In descent Selzman rode a rock 60-70 ft in a rock slide.


expid: AMAD89104
peakid: AMAD
year: 1989
route1: N Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Teijiro Namba
sponsor: Japanese Mountaineering Group Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 1989-04-12
smtdate: 1989-04-25
termdate: 1989-04-30
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to rockfall danger and lack of fuel supply
campsites: BC(12/04,4900m),C1(21/04,5550m),xxx(25/04,5900m)
accidents: None
agency: Atlas
routememo:
  BC on Ama Dablam Glacier
  C1 on North Ridge
  High point on North Ridge.

  Before making C1, at 5450m rock avalanche damaged fixed rope; replaced rope but very dangerous climbing this area and some members didn't want to climb here; kept on going. 26th April to BC and kerosene finished (very expensive in Namche and money finished). Much falling rock from base rock and several times members very nearly hit in this dangerous areas at 5450m and 5700m.


expid: LSIS89101
peakid: LSIS
year: 1989
route1: SE Ridge-SW Summit
route2: S Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Oh In-Hwan
sponsor: Korean Expedition to Langshisa Ri
ascent2: 7th
approach: Via Langtang Khola
bcdate: 1989-04-12
smtdate: 1989-04-20
smttime: 1130
othersmts: Climbed SW Smt of Langshisa Ri
campsites: BC(12/04,4300m),ABC(13/04,4700m),C1(14/04,5400m),C2(18/04,5800m),Smt(20/04)
accidents: Park fell 3-4m in descent from SW Peak but not hurt
achievment: 1st Korean ascent in 1st attempt
agency: Machhapuchare
routememo:
  BC  at Langshisa Kharka
  ABC towards Langshisa Glacier
  C1  on West Face of southwest part of SE Ridge
  C2  on South Face of main peak.

  Very steep snow face above ABC to C1 at end of (plateau atop) face to Langshisa Ri's SW Peak. On 16th April Park and Nima Tamang to top of SW Peak (6154m) by mistake; down in bad weather to BC. 

  15th April again up to C1, next day 2 men made C2 on main peak's S Face; started from C2 at 3:30 am, top 11:30 am, 12 left top, arrived BC 11:30 pm.


expid: CHOY89102
peakid: CHOY
year: 1989
route1: S Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Karl Kobler
sponsor: Swiss Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 1989-04-07
smtdate: 1989-04-28
termdate: 1989-05-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to winds and snow
campsites: BC(07/04,5150m),C1(10/04,5700m),xxx(28/04,6200m)
accidents: Schaer broke leg; Koechli sick
agency: Machhapuchare
routememo:
  BC east of Gyazumpa on wedge of Lungsumpa Glacier
  C1 below point 6500m on S Ridge
  High point at S Ridge.

  1st week very strong wind and impossible to go above 5900m because wind would blow one away. Schaer broke his leg on 18 April when at about 5300m when loose boulder trapped him and had to carry him to Gokyo for helicopter. Had spent a week before accident but unable to get higher than 5900m with winds. Lost a week taking Schaer down. Then back on same ridge and reached 6200m on way to C2 site at 6500m, then Koechli got sick (typhoid?) and Fischer left with him; left BC 27 April. Tried going up one more time but winds strong and deep snow above C1, so "it's enough." "Biggest problem was the wind" from southwest.


expid: KWAN89101
peakid: KWAN
year: 1989
route1: N Face rock buttress (Kwangde Nup)
nation: USA
leaders: Alex Lowe, Steven Swenson
ascent1: 1st W Smt
approach: Lukla->Namche->Thame
bcdate: 1989-04-19
smtdate: 1989-04-24
campsites: BC(19/04),C1(21/04),C2(23/04),W-Smt(24/04)
accidents: None
agency: Unknown
routememo:
  Rock buttress above thame on N Face Kwangde Nup followed line directly up crest to mixed section below headwall. Biv on ice ledge below headwall climbed 7 pitches on vertical headwall and back to high biv in one day. Steep rock (5.10, az) and mixed climbing. Rappeled down route. A good route but rock is only moderately sound.


expid: BARU89103
peakid: BARU
year: 1989
route1: SE Ridge
nation: W Germany
leaders: Udo Schmidt
sponsor: Baruntse Expedition
bcdate: 1989-05-02
smtdate: 1989-05-11
termdate: 1989-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to bad snow conditions and team not strong
campsites: BC(02/05,5360m),C1(06/05,6135m),C2(10/05,6500m),xxx(11/05,6900m)
accidents: None
agency: Chomalhari Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Panch Pokhari
  C1 at west side of West Col
  C2 just northwest of point 6730m.
  High point at bottom of SE Ridge.

  After BC fixed ropes at West Col on 5 May and next day all 12 reached C1. 7 May seven persons reached 6450m enroute to C2 then retreated, with all 12 down to BC that night. 9 May 3 members [Wilfert, Wilmes and Schmidt and 3 Sherpas up to C1 and 10 May to C2. 11 May Schmidt and Wilmes tried for summit and reached 6900m and returned to C1 because of deep snow with crust. Also both not in best health with colds and cough, exhausted by this tiresome slow progress. Left C2 at 6:30 am and turned back at 1:00 pm. 12 May back to BC with gear. No chance for further attempts because others also not in good health and no improvement at BC's altitude.

  Came out via Amphu Laptsa which was difficult.


