# exped

expid: LSHR07101
peakid: LSHR
year: 2007
route1: S Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Um Hong-Gil
sponsor: 2007 Korea Lhotse Shar & Lhotse South Face Expedition
ascent1: 10th
bcdate: 2007-03-29
smtdate: 2007-05-31
smttime: 0650
termdate: 2007-07-04
campsites: BC(29/03,5400m),C1(04/04,5900m),C2(30/04,6800m),C3(20/05,7400m),C4(29/05,8000m),Smt(31/05)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  BC on Lhotse Glacier
  C1 on South Face (route to right of Japanese)
  C2 on ridge on South Face
  C3 on left side of ridge
  C4 at snowfield left of ridge.

  Took long time to occupy C2 because many snow avalanches and difficult route and no campsite at lower altitude. From C2 to C3 mixed ice and rock, technically difficult, and 90-degree steepness in some places. Fixed rope: BC to C1 800m, C1 to C2 1500m, C2 to C3 800m, C3 to C4 800m, C4 to top 700m (200m taken from below). From C4 to top mixed snow ice and rock; snow and rock slope above col at 8200m on SE Ridge, series of 4-5 false summits and very strong cold wind. On 31 May 3:30 am Byun, Pasang Namgyal and Lhakpa Wangdi left C4, Sherpas carrying and Byun making a route and fixing ropes; Um and Mo left C4 at 5:00 am and caught up with ropes fixed and climbed together. Above 8200m Lhakpa Wangdi returned to C4 on his job carrying rope finished and not interested in top; others reached top at 6:50 pm in full moon. Byun snow blind from taking photos without goggles. Team managed to reach C1 at 5:40 am 1 June and down to BC by Um and Pasang Namgyal; Byun and Mo from C4 to BC 2 June. Climb finished: no attempt on Lhotse's main summit because now cloudy and windy, many snow avalanches daily, no time left. This was Um's fourth attempt to climb Lhotse Shar, his first via South Face.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Namgyal, 25/11/72, Khumjung, Everest X1, Yalung Kang with Um
    Lhakpa Wangdi, 25/11/77, Chheskam-2, Solu, no 8000ers

  Oxyygen: 
    Members Mo and Byun in C4 to top to 8200m
    Um from C4 to top to 8300m
    Sherpas Pasang Namgyal and Lhakpa Wangdi used none.

  Accident: Nima Dorchi, 10/9/75 (25/5/2032), Murmidanda-9, Sankhuwasabha (said to have summited Dhaulagiri I in autumn 2000 with Spanish team and Cho Oyu Spring 2002 also with Spaniards), fell 700 meters from 6100m when he was not properly clipped onto the fixed rope. He fell in new soft snow and no bones were broken, but was in pain and was flown by helicopter from Chhukung to Kathmandu on 14 May.

  Mo and Byun came to Kathmandu by helicopter from Syangboche on 7 June because of their frostbite: Mo's fingers and toes, Byun's toes and nose; areas are blue-black, but it was not immediately clear whether they will lose anything. Um's big toes also frostbitten, but not seriously.


expid: MAKA07101
peakid: MAKA
year: 2007
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Brazil
leaders: Waldemar Niclevicz
sponsor: Brazilian Baruntse & Makalu Expedition
countries: France
approach: Tumlingtar->Num->Sedua->Tashigaon->Makalu South BC
bcdate: 2007-04-23
smtdate: 2007-05-18
termdate: 2007-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to lots of snow, difficult to climb
othersmts: Attempted Baruntse (BARU-071-01)
campsites: ABC(23/04,5700m),C1(25/04,6600m),C2(15/05,7400m),C3(16/05,7500m),C4(17/05,7750m),xxx(18/05,7900m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Rai)
routememo:
  Burda and Niclevicz left C4 at 3 am, reached 7900m at 8 am. Lots of snow and the route was too long. They decided to give up, so back to C1 at 9 pm. Next day to BC. 

  Bouchet went up to 7600m on 17 May. He had little fever, then went down to C2. 

  Clauzet Feraz de Mello went up to 6900m on 15 May, suffered from minor altitude sickness, went down down to C1. 

  Pemba Jangbu Sherpa went up to 7750m. 

  Most of the days morning weather was good but afternoon, mostly snowfall.

  They returned to Kathmandu on 28 May and will leave on 7 June.

  Pemba Jangbu Sherpa (16/2/86), Jubing-7


expid: MANA07101
peakid: MANA
year: 2007
route1: NE Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Oliver Koenig
sponsor: Austrians on Manaslu
ascent1: 99 w/Germany
approach: Arughat
bcdate: 2007-04-23
smtdate: 2007-05-19
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2007-05-22
campsites: BC(23/04,4865m),C1(25/04,5700m),C2(30/04,6600m),C3(18/05,7350m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Rai)
routememo:
  Team left C3 at 2 am on summit push on 18 May. It was windy and not too cold (-20 degrees). They climbed together with Amical who broke trail. When they got to the summit ridge, Dujmovits had fixed a rope for the last 30m as the snow slabs would have been too dangerous. It was not possible to stand on summit together as slab very precarious. They descended to C2, arrived at 6 pm. BC on 20 May.

  Route very avalanche prone especially between C1 and C3. Many crevasses between C1 and C2 between C3 and summit.


expid: MANA07102
peakid: MANA
year: 2007
route1: NE Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Ralf Dujmovits
sponsor: Amical Alpin Manaslu Expedition 2007
ascent1: 99th
countries: Austria, Italy, Japan, Switzerland
bcdate: 2007-04-21
smtdate: 2007-05-19
smttime: 0955
termdate: 2007-05-21
campsites: BC(21/04,4850m),C1(27/04,5680m),C2(02/05,6750m),C3(18/05,7350m),Smt(19/05)
accidents: Assfalg 2 frostbitten thumbs
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Rai)
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at normal site (only safe place)
  C2 at normal site
  C3 at normal site.

  Amical Alpin Manaslu Expedition, Spring 2007 - 29 May 2007

  Summit party left C3 at 2:00 am on the 19th. Three turned back before the top: Assfalg at 7600m because both thumbs had gotten frostbitten (he descended to C2), Johannes Bachmann also at 7600m and down to C2 because his feet were very cold; and Karma Gyalzen Sherpa at 7900m because of a stomach problem and cold feet.

  Those who went to the summit were Dujmovits, Eberhard, Hadel, Stihler, Josep Bachmann, Fessler, Takeuchi, Vedani and Pasang Nuru Sherpa. They summited between 9:55 and 10:55 am. All went down to C2 except Hadel, who was exhausted and reached C3 only at 9:30 pm and Dujmovits, who gone up from C3 to the summit plateau to look for him, but it was foggy so returned to C3 and waited for Hadel and stayed with him there that night.

  Non-summiting members:
    Herrmann went to C2 only, left expedition 15 May to go trekking with his wife
    Linke went to C2 on 17 May, decided mountain was too big and went no higher
    Nestler was expected to stay at BC but went to C1 once

  The expedition fixed 750m of rope: 100m between C1 and C2, 600m between C2 and C3, 50m between C3 and summit.

  Sherpas:
    Karma Gyalzen, 5/10/80 (20/7/2037), Waku, Solu
    Pasang Nuru, 4/12/77 (19/8/2034), Kharikhola


  Eberhard Jurgalski - 11 Jan 2010

  Ralf Dujmovits told me, that Rolf Eberhard and Juergen Hadel stopped at the fore-summit. Rolf Eberhard confirmed this on the phone as well.


expid: NUPT07101
peakid: NUPT
year: 2007
route1: N Face
nation: USA
leaders: Jim Williams
sponsor: Exploradus Everest and Nuptse
approach: Lukla
bcdate: 2007-04-12
smtdate: 2007-05-23
termdate: 2007-05-28
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to bad snow conditions
othersmts: Climbed Everest (EVER-071-85)
campsites: BC(12/04,5200m),C1(17/04,6000m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(21/05,7000m),xxx(23/05,7300m)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
primid: EVER07185
routememo:
  On 22 May and 23 May Williams was fixing rope. High point team left C3 at 7 am to fix rope. Weather on 23 May was calm, sunny and hot. When they got to high point where rib meets the face at 1 pm, Williams decided to turn back due to bad snow conditions. They also did not have enough rope to fix. They descended to C3, arrived at 3:30 pm. On 24 May Hesser descended to BC. Williams and Leonard spent night at C1. Williams helped Sherpas and Morton a bit with Pemba Doma's body between C1 and BC.

  Fallon Vaughn left BC on 20 April; she reached about 5350m to first ladder of icefall, but never really intended to climb.

  During Robert Vaughn's Everest attempt, Williams and Hesser stayed at C2 to coordinate.

  Leonard stayed at BC to do dispatches and run BC. She joined Williams and Hesser at C2 at 19 May.


expid: PASA07101
peakid: PASA
year: 2007
route1: SW Face-S Pillar
nation: Italy
leaders: Hans Kammerlander
sponsor: South Tirol Jasamba Expedition
ascent1: 6th
approach: Thami->Marlung to BC south of mountain
bcdate: 2007-05-02
smtdate: 2007-05-22
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2007-05-25
campsites: BC(02/05,5200m),C1(07/05,6030m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Kangjung Yak camp (for Tibetans from Nangpa La)
  C1 at start on South Pillar on SW Face.

  C1 one night and back to BC; then up to C1 on 9 May for fixing ropes and back to BC on 12 May. 16 May to C1 again; 17 and 18 May more rope fixing to 6700m and down to BC on 18 May. 21 May to C1; 22 May at 1:30 am up from C1 and on top 3:00 pm; 15 minutes on top and down to C1 9:00 pm. 23 May midday to BC. Beautiful day on 22nd.

  "Very hard trip," much harder than Nuptse; technically difficult and from 6800m to 7200m (snow seracs) and necessary to climb on top of the three ridges one after the other and not possible to fix them. Fixed ropes ended at 6700m. On descent, fixed rope broke but Unterkircher held by short rope between them, not hurt. At about 6500m traversed 100m to right side of pillar to avoid extremely difficult section; rejoined pillar at 6650m. Summit face no problem (from about 7070m to top). 

  From 2 May every day to 21 May cloudy in late morning and little snow falling. On summit day, snow avalanches whole day, took out fixed rope from 5740m to 5600m. 

  Kammerlander is 100% sure no team has been on Jasamba; there is only one route from Nepalese side and there were no traces of any previous teams.

  Ropes used 1150m from 5300m to 6000m in parts & from C1 to 6700m in parts.


expid: PUMO07101
peakid: PUMO
year: 2007
route1: W Face (same as May 2001 Steck & Buehler)
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Ueli Steck
ascent1: 154
bcdate: 2007-04-13
smtdate: 2007-04-13
termdate: 2007-04-15
othersmts: Climbed Cholatse; attempted Annapurna I (ANN1-071-01)
campsites: BC(13/04),Biv(13/04,6700m),Smt(13-14/04)
agency: Royal Orchid Treks
routememo:
  BC at Gorak Shep
  Biv in crevasse on West Face.

  First to Cholatse: arrived BC 27 March; up SW Ridge (normal route) and on top 4 April in one push with his girlfriend. 

  Then up to Everest BC with Kenton Kool waiting for weather forecast and then from 13 April Gorak Shep at 11:00 am up to biv 6700m in crevasse, protected from cold wind and slept 2 hours and ate food. Then to top (on same route had climbed in spring 2001) in dark [in the middle of the night]; checked GPS to be same was on top and then down to Gorak Shep at 11:00 am 14 April. No fixed rope.

  Leaves 28 April afternoon for Pokhara and Annapurna I climb.


expid: PUTH07101
peakid: PUTH
year: 2007
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Ernst Marti
sponsor: Swiss Putha Hiunchuli Expedition
ascent1: 27th
approach: Nepalganj->Juphal->Dunai->Tarakot->Barbung Khola->Kakkot
bcdate: 2007-05-17
smtdate: 2007-05-23
termdate: 2007-05-25
campsites: BC(17/05,4800m),C1(18/05,5300m),C2(19/05,5700m),Smt(23/05)
achievment: 1st Swiss
agency: Iceland Trekking (Dorje)
routememo:
  Team wanted to walk in through river valley of Kag Khola but locals said it was impossible. They went over ridge and camped at 5000m on ridge at 15 May. Next day they put up camp at so-called German BC. It was difficult to find mountain as it cannot be seen. When they got to BC mountain was visible. Route up to C1 on moraine. They put up cairns for path as it was difficult to find. They put up C1 at beginning of glacier from C1 to C2; they used skis, nice ramp not many crevasses. Route quite clear, set up camp on rockband.

  On summit day they left at 4 am. Weather clear. Route clear but long. Only false summit can be see from route. From there to real summit, it's about one hour. Whole ascent was done in skis - Pemba used snow shoes to top was very windy.

  Skiing was hard but rewarding. From top to 6100m snow conditions difficult. From 6100m good skiing conditions. They dismantled C2 and carried on to C1, arrived at 2 pm. On 24 May back to BC. They walked out the same way they came in.


expid: SIMN07101
peakid: SIMN
year: 2007
route1: S Face
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Mstislav Gorbenko, Vladimir Mogila
sponsor: National Himalayan Expedition Ukraine-Himal 2007
bcdate: 2007-04-13
smtdate: 2007-05-23
termdate: 2007-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 5950m due to bad weather, bad climbing conditions, no time left
othersmts: Climbed Himalchuli East (HIME-071-01)
campsites: BC(13/04,3600m),ABC(08/05,4800m),C1(16/05,5640m),C2(20/05,5760m),C3(21/05,5850m),xxx(23/05,5950m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Windhorse Trekking
primid: HIME07101
routememo:
  BC  at Himalchuli BC
  ABC at bottom of South Face
  C1  on South Face
  C2  on South Face
  C3  on South Face
  High point at South Face.

  From Himalchuli/P-2 BC: acclimatized up to Himalchuli C2 and back to BC. Then to P-2 climbing northwards to P-2 South Face in alpine style by 4 members. Waited in ABC because of snowfall and fog (could not see face). 16 May started up and to C1 at top of ice wall to point where face was clouded in snow. 17th bad weather and in very small tent (could not lie down in it). C2 in overhanging part of wall on 20th. 21st to C3. All the time weather bad and snow avalanching (not dangerous, but very inconvenient). 23rd to 5950m and stopped climb: bad weather, bad condition of face, bad campsites and time finished. Returned to C2 to sleep and BC 24th.


expid: EVER07161
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Asian Trekking (N)
sponsor: Asian Trekking Everest North Expedition 2007
countries: Belgium, Brazil, Czech Republic, Germany, Japan, Philippines, S Korea, UK, USA
approach: Kathmandu->Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-03
smtdate: 2007-05-15
termdate: 2007-06-06
campsites: See route note descriptions for individual teams
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  The Asian Trekking expedition was a combination of 11 independent teams (1 or 2 climbers each). Asian Trekking provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each teams. The expedition accounts for each team is given below:


  Michael Niemeier (Germany)

  Name:  Albert Hirschhof II Expedition to Everest 
  Camps: BC(12/04,5200m),ABC(17/04,6400m),C1(24/04,7100m),C2(13/05,7500m),
         C3(14/05,8300m),Smt(15/05)
  Left:  21/05/07
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success

  Team left C3 on 14 May at 9 pm. Weather was clear and calm. On ascent Niemeier and Pasang saw an illuminated star on top of Mt Everest that was put there by Indian team. However, the star was gone when they reached summit. They spent 1 hour on summit and descended to C3 where they arrived at 6 pm. They had dumped heavy gear at C1 and Pasang collected it on 17 May.

  Everything went well; however, Niemeier says that old ropes covered in snow near 2nd Step are potential danger. Twice he and Pasang got caught in this rope and fell.

  Sherpa Summiter:
    Pasang Rita Sherpa, Thamo, Namche-9, 01/07/77, Everest 2003, 2005 & 2006


  Gavin Bate (UK)

  Name:  Adventure Alternative Cho Oyu
  Camps: BC(27/04),ABC(01/05,6500m),C1(03/05,7000m),xxx(19/05,8600m)
  Left:  22/05/07
  Hired: 1
  Term:  AMS
         Abandoned at 8600m due to hypothermia and altitude sickness

  Other Smts: Attempted Cho Oyu (CHOY-071-19)

  C1 at North Col
  High point at bottom of 2nd Step.

  In 6 days exercised by going to North Col 4 times to develop strength/lungs (and also carried up gear mostly by himself). Bate intended to climb without oxygen. Summit push on 17th May from ABC with Pasang Tendi; 17 May in C1, to 8300m (both men took oxygen at 7900m) and rested for 6 hours at 8300m from 4:00 pm NST to 10:00 pm. Then climbed through the night and reached ridge which had very soft snow, little traction and now Bate realized oxygen came out of side of too large mask and his energy level low. On ridge very windy, but carried on (had reached ridge at 2:00 am of 18 May). Very deep snow and strong wind as arrived up at 5:00 am. At bottom of 2nd Step Bate got hyperthermia began to lose his reason and will to move and couldn't breathe - just stood there. Pasang Tendi started pushing Bate down, cajoling Bate to go down which he did realizing lungs full of liquid. Pasang Tendi gave his oxygen to Bate. Bate to ABC without stopping at 6:00 pm. "One of the hardest descents I've ever made - I could never have done it without Pasang there all the time doing everything for me." From North Col got stuck in descent and was helped by other French teams, Sherpa De Tshering, and by others along whole descent (Bate did projects in Jubing VDC so many Sherpas knew him). Went straight to Brice's medical tents at 6:00 pm and Brice did everything he could to help Bate. "I was very scared up there - I was petrified" and in Brice's tent got over all that and started recovery. Slept on oxygen in our tent at ABC (no more oxygen on 20th onward). To BC 21 May.

  This was Bate's 4th time on Everest. "By your 4th time, you really have learned a lot".


  Helena Pinto Coelho (Brazil)
  Paulo Pinto Coelho (Brazil)

  Name:  Brazilians on Everest
  Camps: BC(23/04,5400m),ABC(28/04,6400m),C1(05/05,7000m),xxx(15/05,7700m)
  Left:  06/06/07
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Lack of Time
         Abandoned at 7700m due to lack of time (visa expired on 7 Jun)

  High point at C2.

  Coelhos started summit push from ABC 1 June. They stayed in C1 for two nights due to bad weather (too much wind). On 3 June they ascended to C2, where they arrived at midday (NST). They had a look towards summit, but thought it was too windy to go up the next day and their visa was running out on 7 June. They decided to return to C1 the same day (3 June). On 4 June they descended to ABC. They stayed two nights and descended to BC on 6 June.


  Kazufumi Watanabe (Japan)

  Name:  Japanese on Everest
  Camps: BC(12/04,5200m),ABC(17/04,6400m),C1(01/05,7000m),C2(17/05,7500m),xxx(18/05,7700m)
  Left:  20/05/07
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Other
         Abandoned at 7700m due to friend's death

  Watanabe left C2 on 18 May at 9 am. At 11 am he stopped at Mochizuki's tent, which was at 7700m and saw that he was dead. He radioed down to 7600m to inform people (Sherpas from 7 Summit Club) about it. He then took Mochizuki's equipment and descended to ABC. He left C2 at noon and arrived at ABC at 6 pm.

  Watanabe does not know whether Mochizuki was on the summit. His body remains at C2; Asian Trekking Sherpas buried his body inside the tent in the snow.


  Lee Sang-Bae (S Korean)

  Name:  Korean on Everest
  Camps: BC(09/04,5200m),ABC(14/04,6400m),C1(28/04,7050m),C2(15/05,7600m),
         C3(16/05,8200m),Smt(17/05)
  Left:  20/05/07
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success

  Team left C3 at 9:40 pm on 16 May. Weather was clear and calm. Not so many people on route. They stayed 20 minutes on summit, good views, then descended to C1, where they arrived at 6 pm and stayed the night. On 18 May they descended to ABC and 19 May to BC. According to Lee everything went as planned and smoothly.

  Sherpas summiters:
    Nima Kancha, 15/5/80, Khumjung, Everest 20/5/06
    Mingma, aka Ang Mingma, 21/2/68, Yilajung, Everest X5


  Frederick Borst (USA)
  Shane Edmonds (USA)

  Name:  Americans on Everest
  Camps: BC(12/04,5200m),ABC(17/04,6400m),C1(29/04,7000m),C2(15/05,8000m),xxx(15/05,8000m)
  Left:  21/05/07
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Bad weather
         Abandoned at 8000m due to bad weather, sickness by Edmonds

  Team left C1 at 10 am (NST) on 15 May. It was fairly warm and not to windy. They arrived at C2 at 4 pm. They pitched their tent way above the other tents at C2 as they wanted to push for summit from there. When they woke up next morning and it was very windy. Edmonds felt sick to his stomach, so decided to descend to ABC at about 7 am. They arrived at ABC at midday. They descended to BC on 18 May.


  Yasuhiko Mochizuki (Japan)

  Name:  Japanese on Everest 
  Camps: BC(20/04,5200m),C1(24/04,7050m),C2(14/05,7700m),xxx(14/05,7700m)
  Left:   
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Accident
         Abandoned at 7700m due to death in C2

  Taniguchi told me that she said hello into his tent on 16 May but no answer. One of the Americans of Asian Trekking group said hello on 15 May and there was an answer. Taniguchi last saw Mochizuki on 24 April and he seemed Ok. Nobody knows whether he made it to the summit or not. Watanabe found him on 18 May, but he said his cooker was off; however a Sherpa (Pemba Dorje of Noguchi expedition) said his cooker was on. He died in his tent.

  Kaji and Ang Kaji of Ken Noguchi's team buried his body inside his tent in the snow about 20m west of the route. His gear was carried down by a Sherpa and Watanabe who will give it to Mochizuki's family.

  The American who said hi to Mochizuki's tent was Oestrike. He called his name at about 6 pm on 15 May and Mochizuki responded with a sleepy grunt. Oestrike waited for 30 seconds but thought he was sleeping, so he left.


  Justin Hewitt (USA)
  Brian Oestrike (USA)

  Name:  Lungevity Everest 
  Camps: BC(10/04,5200m),ABC(28/04,6400m),C1(30/04,7000m),C2(15/05,7850m),Smt(23/05)
  Left:  25/05/07
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Success

  Hewitt and Oestrike left C2 at 7850m at 9 pm on 22 May. It was very windy but clear. Ascent was straightforward. About 10 people on route. No queues on steps. Good views from summit. They spent about 10 minutes on summit. When they got to C3 at 2:30 pm, they tried to move Czech climber Kozak's body, but had no strength to move it. So they covered it with their lungevity flag. They carried on to ABC where they arrived at 8:30 pm. On 24 May they descended to BC.


  Marjolein De Bruycker (Belgium)

  Name:  Belgian on Everest 
  Camps: BC(12/04,5200m),ABC(17/04,6400m),C1(06/05,7100m),C2(14/05,7700m),
         C3(15/05,8300m),Smt(16/05)
  Left:  21/05/07 
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success

  De Bruycker and Mingma Dorje left C3 at 9 pm on 15 May. It was snowing, but not windy. When they arrived on summit, there were about 30 people there. They stayed about 15 minutes on summit and descended to C3, where they arrived at 9 am. They rested there and then carried on to C1, where they arrived at 5 pm. Climb was straightforward; weather good.

  Sherpa Summiter:
    Mingma Dorje Sherpa, Thamo, Khumbu, 01/10/77, Everest X2, Cho Oyu in 2006


  Regidor Pablo (Philippines)

  Name:  Call to Save the Mountains of the World 
  Camps: BC(03/04,5000m),ABC(06/04,6200m),C1(11/04,7080m),C2(14/05,7900m),
         C3(16/05,8800m),Smt(17/05)
  Left:  21/05/07
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success

  BC at CBC/IC on 5 April at 5800m
  C2 little above the normal C2.

  Pablo and Pemba Dorje left C3 at 10 pm (NST) on 16 May. They reached summit at 9 am on 17 May, stayed on summit 15 minutes, descended to C3 around 3 pm. Next day to ABC. About 15 people were on summit ahead of him, all were Asians. Pablo saw a Buddha statue in a glass case wrapped with many katas and prayer flags on the summit. Pablo showed the picture of summit. Pablo returned to Kathmandu on 23 May and will leave after one week.

  Filipino Everest independent climber Regidor Pablor - Spring 2007

  "Regie" Pablo climbed Everest via the North Col on the Asian Trekking permit with one Sherpa, 48 year old Ang Temba (from Beding). Ang Temba went as high as C3 with Pablo, then got a respiratory problem and could not continue.

  On the mountain at the same time were his nephews, Pemba Dorje and Phurba Tenji, who were climbing with a Japanese team led by Ken Noguchi, also on the Asian Trekking permit. Ang Temba asked Pemba Dorje to help Pablo, while he (Ang Temba) stayed in C3.

  So on 17 May at 9:00 am (NST) Pablo went to the top along with a Noguchi team summit party including Pemba Dorje plus Phurba Tenji, four other Sherpas and one Japanese member, Miss Kei Taniguchi. Pablo no longer had any Sherpas of his own.

  Pemba Dorje started this [third] summit climb from C1, according the Phurba Tenji. Billi noted from her interview with Noguchi and Taniguchi that he started from C2. [In any case, he did not start from ABC and thus qualify for a complete third ascent].

  From the summit, Pablo descend to C3. He and Ang Dawa went down to C1 on the 18th.

  (Above information from Phurba Tenji given to Jeevan on 26 July 2007)

  Ang Temba suffered from respiratory problem.

  Sherpa:
    Ang Temba Sherpa, 21/2/59, Beding


  Libor Kozak (Czech Republic)

  Name:  Czech on Everest 
  Camps: BC(11/04,5200m),ABC(15/04,6400m),C1(18/04,7000m),C2(20/04,7700m),
         C3(15/05,8300m),xxx(16/05)
  Left:   
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Accident
         Abandoned at 8600m due to death of Kozak

  Dawa and Kozak arrived at C3 on 15 May. They left C3 for summit push at 8 am on 15 May in afternoon. Kozak seemed Ok to Dawa. It was snowing. When they reached 8600m Kozak felt unwell and started vomiting, but he wanted to carry on to the summit. Dawa persuaded him to turn back. Kozak was able to walk. They reached C3 at 7 am and both slept for 1 hour. When they woke up they both had a liter of water to drink. Dawa then started to pack up tent whilst Kozak was getting ready to go. He started walking downhill but suddenly fell over and apparently died instantly. Dawa just heard him utter "Dawa." Chetta Tamang and Moti Lal Gurung, tried to help and did heart message, but it was too late. Kozak was dead, blood clotting out of his mouth. No Westerners helped even though there were about 15 in the camp. A German climber just took a photo!!!

  After spending about 30 minutes with Kozak, Dawa took some pictures and left C3 at 9 am and descended to ABC. He stayed 1 night and on 17 May cleared C2. Kozak's body remains at C3. Not exactly clear what he died of. Kozak was giving himself injections through out trip, but it is not clear what for.

  Sherpa:
    Dawa Sherpa, Tapting, Solu, 1/11/71 
      Cho Oyu 1/10/6, Everest South 2002, 
      Everst North 2005 (Japan) TMA certificate says 21/05/05, 
        but on return he says turned back at 8600m 
      Gyajikang 26/9/05, Baruntse (Dutch) 12/10/04

  Dawa Sherpa - 22 June 2007 

  Kozak and Dawa climbed to top of Second Step with Dawa in the lead and Kozak following normally not far behind, but at the top of the Step Kozak vomited for the first time. They were there at 2:00 am NST, returned to C3 at 4:00 am, spent time there brewing water, drinking tea and soup and slept 2 hours at 8:30 am, they were almost ready to descend: Kozak was outside this tent putting on his second crampons, when he fell over and didn't move again. Dawa dug shallow grave in snow at C3 and buried Kozak's body wrapped in tent and covered by down jacket, covered over with snow.

  Russell Brice - 22 June 2007 

    Brice's Sherpas removed body and sent it down the mountain.

  Manuel Pizarro's account on Kozak Libor through email - 7 June 2007

  When Pizarro and Fur Gyalzen arrived at C3 on 15th May at 4 pm there was no tent for them! Fur Gyalzen had told Pizarro that a tent had been in place but there was not. So Libor and Dawa Sherpa took them into their tent. Libor did not look very well. He was lucid but weak and looked a bit blue. Pizarro wanted to check his oxygen saturation, but Libor refused. Pizarro had the feeling that Libor did not want to know about his bad condition. When Pizarro got ready to go for the summit at 9:30 pm he saw Libor struggling with his crampons. Pizarro waited for Libor as he did not want to go on his own (his Sherpa had refused to go). At about 10:15 pm Libor started to move towards the summit, but when Pizarro saw how slow he was left without Libor. That was the last time Pizarro saw Libor alive. 

  When he came back to C3 from the summit at 4 pm, the tent they had spent the night in had gone and so were Fur Gyalzen and Dawa Sherpa. Pizarro got into an empty tent and spent the night there. He saw Libor's body the next day (17th May). Libor was lying about 100 meters above the first tent of C3 (about 50m left of the fixed rope). Pizarro thinks he must have died of cerebral edema, due to Libor's behaviour in the tent the previous night. He tried to move Libor a bit but could not do so on his own. Pizarro (who is a policeman and deals with dead bodies frequently) said he thought that Libor had died in exactly the position he was in as the snow underneath was undisturbed and because of the position of his body, that he collapsed and died instantly.


expid: EVER07162
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Asian Trekking Staff
sponsor: Asian Trekking Everest Expedition 2007
countries: Australia, Austria, Canada, Germany, Hungary, Ireland, Italy, Malaysia, Sweden, USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2007-04-07
smtdate: 2007-05-16
termdate: 2007-05-27
campsites: See route note descriptions for individual teams
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  The Asian Trekking expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1 climber each). Asian Trekking provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high-altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Stefano Biffi (Italy)

  Name:  Italian on Everest
  Camps: BC(24/04,5300m),C1(29/04,6050m),C2(04/05,6500m),C3(19/05,7100m),
         C4(20/05,7925m),Smt(21/05)
  Left:  25/05/07
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success

  Team left C4 on 20 May at 9 pm. Weather was clear but cold. Not that many people on summit. They spent about one hour on the summit. On descent, Biffi was in front of Dorje. He arrived at C4 at noon. Dorje arrived three hours later; he was snowblinded. Nuri Sherpa guided him down. They spent two nights at South Col as Dorje was feeling unwell. They left C4 on 23 May. Dorje's snowblindness was better and he could walk himself. It took them all day to get to C2. On 24 May they descended to BC. Dorje had recovered completely by then.

  Sherpa Summiter:
    Dorje (Big Dorje) Sherpa


  Martin Byrne (Ireland)

  Name:  Dream Everest
  Camps: BC(26/04,5350m),C1(01/05,6000m),C2(02/05,6400m),C3(06/05,7400m),
         xxx-Byrne(06,21/05,7400m),xxx-Sherpa(23/05,8400m)
  Left:  27/05/07
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Route too difficult
         Abandoned at 7440m by member and 8400m by Sherpa

  Byrne went with Lhakpa and Pasang Sherpas to C3 on 6 May and spent one night there, then down to C2 for "a couple of nights" and down to BC for treatment at HRA's medical clinic at BC for his very bad cough, which meant his sleep was frequently broken and he lost his voice. They returned to C3 on 21 May hoping to go South Col on the 22nd for a summit bid. But instead Byrne, and Pasang with him, on the 22nd descended to C2 and for Byrne the climb was finished. According to Lhakpa, Pasang had spoken by walkie-talkie with the BC sirdar of their agency, Asian Trekking, Pertemba Sherpa, who had said that Byrne should descend because he was too slow, had taken too long to climb from C2 to C3 (12 hours, according to Lhakpa; if Byrne had used oxygen, Lhakpa said, he would have moved faster, but he never used any).

  Byrne told Lhakpa he could make a summit bid, so on the 22nd Lhakpa went up from C3, using oxygen, reached the South Col despite strong wind, and took shelter in an Asian Trekking tent occupied by two Sherpas a man from Phortse with an Australian named Paul (Adler) and a Khumjung man with an Hungarian team (led by Attila Jelinko). At 9:00 that night, the teams left C4 at the Col for the summit; Lhakpa, still on oxygen, was 20 minutes behind the Australian and Hungarians leaving C4 and while the others summited, Lhakpa stopped at 1:00 am on the 23rd at about 8400m at the Balcony. He was alone, tired, buffeted by very strong cold wind, and his feet were getting cold. His oxygen ran out here, but a member of the doctor's expedition (led by Mike Grocott) helped him switch over to another bottle and to start to go down; another member of the same expedition came up from the Col and escorted him to C4 at 3:00 am. He slept here until 6:00 am, then feeling fine, he stopped using oxygen and descended unaided to C2, slept there two nights and joined Byrne in BC on the 25th.

  Byrne criticized Lhakpa's use of a lot of oxygen and said that Lhakpa had not been dressed warmly enough for a summit push and had an insufficient supply of food and water with him. Pertemba had called Sherpas high on the mountain to help him down, and he was helped by Sherpas from the Jagged Globe expedition (led by Iain Peter); Lhakpa at first also said his helpers came from the Jagged Globe team, but asked whether they were from Jagged Globe or the doctor's team, he quickly agreed that they were from the doctor's expedition. (Jagged Globe people summited on the 17th and most of them left BC on 21st).

  Byrne was also critical of what he called Asian Trekking and Pertemba's philosophy to get up to the top and down as early and quickly as possible. His was to acclimatize slowly and thoroughly and as a result, he and his Sherpas would have no altitude problems at all: they had trekked in from Jiri via Lhakpa's home village and spent several nights at Gorak Shep before going to BC.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Sherpa, 25/12/73, Rawadolu village, Okhaldhunga-1, no 8000ers
    Pasang Sherpa, 10/7/76, Siddha Pokhari, Kerabari, Makalu, Everest 31/5/05


  Stephen Giesecke (USA)

  Name:  Dream Everest
  Camps: BC(13/04,5300m),C1(20/04,6100m),C2(21/04,6500m),C3(02/05,7300m),
         C4(19/05,8000m),Smt(20/05)
  Left:  22/05/07
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success

  Team left C4 at 9:30 pm on 19 May. Weather was calm but pretty warm. Giesecke had to take off a layer at 8200m. When they got to summit about 18 people where on summit and atleast 12 of them were Sherpas. Good views from summit, but clouds at about 7000m. They spent about 20 minutes on summit. They descended to C2, where they arrived at 3 pm. On 21 May they descended to BC on 21 May. Expedition went well. Giesecke was well apart from a stomach bug.

  Sherpa Summiters:
    Tshering Thundu Sherpa, 4/10/74, Khumjung, Everest 17/5/2004, Cho Oyu X1
    Cheddar Sherpa, Dec 1962, Sisuwakhola, Makalu VDC, Everest X2


  Dirk Stephan (Germany)

  Name:  German on Everest
  Camps: BC(07/04,5300m),C1(23/04,6100m),C2(24/04,6500m),C3(18/05,7300m),
         C4(19/05,8000m),Smt(20/05)
  Left:  21/05/07
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success

  Team left C4 at 9 pm on 19 May. Weather calm and clear. Snow condition good. He thinks that two steps below South Summit are more difficult than Hillary Step. Step used to be covered in ice, but now rock. They stayed on summit for 30 minutes. Good views. Descent was hard due to heat. In C4, where they arrived at 8 am, Stephan took off down suit and continued to descend in fleece. They carried on to C2 and arrived at 1 pm. Next day they went to BC and Lobuche.

  Sherpa Summiter:
    Phu Tashi Sherpa


  Johan Nilson (Sweden)

  Name:  Climate Neutral Everest Expedition
  Camps: BC(08/04,5300m),C1(15/04,6100m),C2(20/04,6900m),C3(14/05,7100m),
         C4(15/05,8000m),Smt(16/05)
  Left:  20/05/07
  Hired: 1 (Kami Sherpa, also deputy leader of Nepal TV Lions Club Expedition expedition)
  Term:  Success

  Team left C4 at 11 am on 15 May. It was snowing but stopped when they reached the Balcony at about 7 am. Good views from summit. Nilson and Kami were on summit with Benegas. Apparently first group to summit from south side this season. They stayed about 20 minutes and descended to C4, where they arrived at 3:30 pm. On 17 May they descended to C2 and back to BC on 18 May. Nilson's plastic boot broke at about 8200m on ascent. Zipper did not close but they fixed it with duct tape. He says he's lucky that he did not get frostbite as it was very cold.


  Meagan McGrath (Canada)

  Name:  Dream Everest
  Camps: BC(13/04,5200m),C1(17/04,6100m),C2(18/04,6400m),C3(19/04,7300m),
         C4(20/05,8000m),Smt(21/05)
  Left:  ?
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success

  McGrath and Rita Dorje left C4 at 9:47 pm on 20 May. It was clear and cold. Good views from summit. About 25 people on summit. They spent about 35 minutes on summit. On descent they found Nepali climber Usha Bista, just below at 8350m. She was resting, her oxygen mask was askew and she was obviously unwell, but still on way up. Bista was completely alone with her oxygen mask cord was wrapped around her neck. She was just a mess. McGrath and Chuck from AC and another Sherpa helped Bista down for about 20m. Then Dave Hahn arrived and helped and dragged her to C4. There they gave her some Dex and got her down to C3. McGrath and Ang Rita descended to C2, arrived at 4 pm and the next day to BC. Usha Bista was flown out of BC on 24 May. Apparently she had frostbite.

  With her ascent McGrath has become youngest Canadian to do the 7 summits.

  Sherpa Summiter:
    Rita Dorje Sherpa


  Dawa Steven Sherpa (Nepal)

  Name:  Dream Everest
  Camps: BC(07/04,5300m),C1(21/04,6100m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3(01/05,7200m),
         C4(20/05,8000m),Smt(21/05)
  Left:  25/05/07
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Success

  Dawa Steven left C4 at 10 pm on 20 May. He was with Boy Scouts' Figg. Weather was calm and clear. There were about 40 people on top. Dawa stayed 1 hour on top. It was very warm. He descended to C4 as he was coming down. He bumped into Dave Hahn, who was helping Usha Bista with 2 other Sherpas halfway between C4 and the Balcony. He helped stabilize Usha. He arrived at C4 at 11:30 am. On 22 May he descended to C2 but on his way he stopped at below Yellow Band at about 7800m where he saw Pemba Doma's body and helped bring her body down to C3. They wrapped her in insulation material (mats) and belayed her body down. It took from 8 am to 4:30 pm, when he reached C3. They built a platform together wth Willy Benegas and put her body on it. Dawa Steven carried on to C2 the same day, where he arrived at 6 pm. On 23 May he descended to BC.

  On 24 May Dawa ascended to "Football Field" in middle of Icefall to help bring down Pemba Doma's body but descending Sherpas told him not to carry on due to precarious conditions of the Icefall. In the afternoon the Icefall collapsed at the top! On 25 May he went back up to meet the helpers who were bringing down the body down the last 3/4 of the Icefall. They were 11 people involved in the operation. They reached BC at 3:30 pm. Dawa left BC same at 5:30 pm.


  Ravichandran Tharumalingam (Malaysia)

  Name:  Malaysian on Everest
  Camps: BC(07/04,5250m),C1(17/04,6100m),C2(18/04,6500m),C3(19/04,8000m),
         xxx(20/05,8300m)
  Left:  22/05/07
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Frostbite
         Abandoned at 8300m due to coldness of amputed fingers

  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 above the Khumbu Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 at South Col (did not sleep)
  High point almost to the Balcony.

  Tharumalingam left South Col at 9 pm on 19 May. He reached 8300m. He does not remember the time but it may be after about 3 hours. Tharumalingam, at that point realized that his amputed fingers started getting cold and also his thumb, so he then decided to turn back to South Col. It took him about 2 hours to reach South Col on 20 May. He had rest at C4 for a while then went down to C2 where he reached at about 11:30 pm and slept there. Next day to BC. 

  There was no personal Sherpa assigned to him. 

  He returned to Kathamdu on 25 May and will leave on 2 June. First he stayed at Hotel Metropolitan Kantipur for some days and moved to Everest Hotel.


  Paul Adler (Australia)

  Name:  Dream Everest
  Camps: BC(13/05,5200m),C1(17/04,6100m),C2(18/04,6400m),C3(07/05,7300m),
         C4(22/05,8000m),Smt(23/05)
  Left:  25/05/07
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success

  Summit team left C4 at 9:45 am on 22 May together with Jelinko and his team. It was windy and cold but clear. When they got to summit about 20 people were on top. Adler was having problems with his oxygen mask and nearly ran out of oxygen but found new bottle on South Summit. When he got to the Balcony he noticed that he was getting snowblind. He rested at C4, arrived at 9 am. He rested for 1 hour and descended to C2, arrived at 3 pm. Adler had trouble finding the rope but Lhakpa Nuru guided him. On 24 May he descended to BC; by that time his eyes were completely recovered. He helped a Singaporian out of a crevasse.

  Sherpa Summiters:
    Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa
    Pemba Tshering Sherpa


  Attila Jelinko (Hungary)

  Name:  Dream Everest
  Camps: BC(13/04,5200m),C1(17/04,6100m),C2(18/04,6400m),C3(07/05,7300m),
         C4(22/05,8000m),Smt(23/05)
  Left:  25/05/07
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success

  Jelinko, Mingma Nurbu and Tenzing Dorje left C4 at 9:45 am on 22 May together with Adler's team. Weather was clear, but cold and windy. Many people on the route. When they got to summit, 20 people were on top. On way down problems with oxygen. Descended to C2, arrived at 3 pm. Next day BC.

  Sherpa Summiters:
    Mingma Nurbu Sherpa
    Tenzing Dorje Sherpa


  Rudolf Praschl-Bichler (Austria)

  Name:  Dream Everest
  Camps: BC(13/04,5300m),C1(22/04,6100m),C2(23/04,6500m),C3(18/05,7300m),
         C4(19/05,8000m),xxx(19/05,8200m)
  Left:  22/05/07
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Lack of strength
         Abandoned at 8200m due to loads too heavy, no oxygen

  Praschl-Bichler left C4 on 19 May at 9 pm. Weather was clear and calm. When he reached 8200m, he felt too exhausted to carry on, so he turned back. He descended to C4 from where he helped Malaysian Climber Ravi, who was unwell to descend to C2. Next day they arrived at C2 at 1 pm on 20 May. On 21 May to BC.


  Cristina Piolini (Italy)

  Name:  Italian on Everest & Lhotse
  Camps: BC(01/05,5200m),C1(02/05,6100m),C2(03/05,6500m),C3(19/05,7100m),
         C4(20/05,8000m),xxx(21/05,8400m)
  Left:  26/05/07
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Bad weather
         Abandoned at 8400m due to high winds, very cold

  High point at Balcony.

  Piolini arrived at C4 on 20 May at 2 pm. She was with Mrs Pemba Doma who later died on Lhotse. They spent night there. Pemba left for Lhotse at 2 am on 21 May. Piolini wanted to come with her, but had a bad feeling about Lhotse, so she remained in Lhotse C4 till 9 am. Then she traversed to C4 on South Col, where she arrived at 1 pm. She pitched tent and tried to help Stephano Biffi's Sherpa Dorje who was snowblind. At 6:30 pm she left C4 for Everest summit push. Temperature was -38 degrees and it was very windy. When she arrived at Balcony at 10:45 pm, her feet were very cold and it was too windy to continue, so she descended to C4 and arrived at 3 am. Her tent was blown away by the wind because tent was empty.

  She spent night in tent with Biffi and Dorje. She spent 3 days and night there with them. They left 23 May and descended to C2. Pemba Doma's husband was there looking for the body of his wife. On 24 May she descended to BC with Biffi and Dorje. A huge piece of the Icefall came down just after Biffi, Dorje and Piolini had crossed that section. 

  When she got down to BC she noticed that her feet were slightly frostbitten. However, she will be able to keep all toes.


expid: CHAK07201
peakid: CHAK
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Tatsumine Makino
sponsor: Central Nepal Himalaya Expedition for Mountaineering of Kanagawa
ascent1: 1st
bcdate: 2007-07-09
smtdate: 2007-07-24
smttime: 1150
termdate: 2007-07-27
campsites: BC(09/07),C1(13/07,5500m),C2(16/07,6200m),Smt(24/07)
achievment: Chako's 1st ascent
agency: Cosmo Treks
othersmts:
  Chulu West summited on 7th Aug by Kamisaka, Kawaura, Nemoto, Omura, Watanabe, Ang Phuri and Prakash Rai

routememo:
  Expedition left Kathmandu by bus to Besisahar on 21 June, then trekked up the Marshyangdi River to Nar Gaon and Phu Gaon, and from there continued north to make their base for attempts on Chako and Bhrikuti. They first attempted Chako, and pitched camps as follows:

  BC - 09 July - about 5000m
  C1 - 13 July - 5500m on west side on small plateau
  C2 - 16 July - 6200m on SW Ridge

  There was a rock band beginning at 6500m and from here the SW Ridge became very steep and narrow. They fixed rope all the way from 5900m to the summit.

  The summit was reached on 24 July at 11:50 am by Omura, Kamisaka, Ang Phuri Lama and Hari Bahadur Chaulagai. The summit party descended to C2 at 4:00 pm, but at about the same time an avalanche came down and destroyed one of the two tents at the camp. No one was hurt, but the two Nepalis had to go down to BC while the two Japanese slept that night at C2 and descended to BC the next day, the 25th.

  Meanwhile, Makino had left the expedition on 11 July, when he decided his climb was finished, and Tanaka, who developed pulmonary edema, left the team on 21 July.

  From BC on 27 July Nemoto, Kuramochi and Ang Phuri went north-northwest to the base of Bhrikuti to look for a route; they gained a little altitude to 5800m on the South Ridge but did no real climbing. They reported that there was too much danger of avalanching on Bhrikuti, so on 29 July the team left BC and retraced their steps southward to Phu Gaon and on the 30th were back in Nar Gaon.

  They intended now to climb Khumjung. On 1 August, Kamisaka, Omura, Ang Phuri and Prakash Rai went to look for a route and went northwest up Lapso Khola to a point due west of Phu Gaon. Here the Khola was too swollen to cross, so they retreated to Nar Gaon, and it was decided to abandon plans for Khumjung. They cleared BC and trekked to Manang's Hungde airfield on 3 Aug.

  Now they went to climb the trekking peak, Chulu West. On 4 August moved to Manang village from its west side. They made a new BC at 4900m. They pitched C1 at 5600m and on the 7th Kamisaka, Kawaura, Nemoto, Omura, Watanabe, Ang Phuri and Prakash Rai summited Chulu West via its west ridge and stayed on C1; they down to BC on the 8th and back in Manang village on the 9th.

  Their net target was Gaugiri. On 12 Aug they crossed the Thorong La to Muktinath. On the 13th from Muktinath to Chhusang village and the east side of the Kali Gandaki River, and from there arrived at Ghumethanti on the 20th. Next day to Damodar Kund lake and on 22nd reached a good campsite in a grassy area at 5300m south of Gaugiri. But by now they were quite tired so rested here for a day and made no climbing attempt.

  Finally they wanted to go northwest to Arniko Chuli. In Lho Manthang on the 27th, they learned that this was the harvesting season, and the local people believed that if foreigners entered the area, their crops would be ruined. So they abandoned plans for Arniko Chuli and trekked down the Kali Gandaki River to Beni for a bus to Kathmandu.

  Nepalese climbers:
    Ang Phuri Lama, sirdar - 60 years old from Beni-3
    Hari Bahadur Chaulagai - 26 years old from Makalu-2
    Prakash Rai, 31 years old from Makalu-6


expid: CHOY07325
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Domenico Sturla
sponsor: Sturla Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-09-08
smtdate: 2007-09-19
termdate: 2007-10-02
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(08/09,4900m),ABC(10/09,5700m),C1(14/09,6400m),C2(19/09,7100m),xxx(19/09,7100m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  On 27 Sept stayed at C1, planning to go further next day. There was a strong storm which destroyed and blown away tents at C1. About 75 percent of tents at C1 were destroyed. Descended to ABC on 28 Sept. There was not enough time to try to summit.

  Sturla returned to Kathmandu on 3 October and will leave on 6 October.


expid: CHOY07341
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Ricardo Guerrero
sponsor: Cordoba Cho Oyu Expedition 2007
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-09-16
smtdate: 2007-10-04
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2007-10-06
campsites: BC(16/09,4900m),ABC(18/09,5700m),C1(21/09,6400m),C2(23/09,7100m),C3(03/10,7500m),Smt(04/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Baena Roca, Guerrero Martinez and Nima Gyalzen left C3 at about 4:30 am CST. Baena Roca turned around to C3 from 7700m (below rock band) as his hands became very cold since gloves were not good enough to keep his hand warm. Guerrero Martinez and Nima Gyalzen reached summit between 10-10:30 am CST (7:45-8:15 am NST), stayed on summit about 40 minutes, descended to C3 about 1 pm, rested about an hour then to C2 sleep. Next day to ABC.

  Weather below summit plateau it was very cold and windy. Summit was sunny but very cold. Saw Everest, Lhotse beautiful pictures. While on summit about 3 people with oxygen and other 4 or 5 with Sherpas arrived. Others on summit were Italians and 2 Spanish. 

  The team returned Kathmandu on 8 Oct and try to leave on 10 or 11 Oct. The team may come for Everest north side in 2008 Spring. 

  Sherpa:
    Nima Gyalzen, Beding, 25-4-2042, summited Everest north 2005 with Japanese


expid: CHOY07301
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Singapore
leaders: Raja Bose
countries: Australia, Malaysia, New Zealand, UK
bcdate: 2007-09-04
smtdate: 2007-09-23
smttime: 1040
termdate: 2007-10-03
campsites: BC(04/09,4900m),ABC(08/09,5700m),C1(14/09,6400m),C2(19/09,7100m),Smt(23/09)
accidents: Chu got some frostnip on big toes
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  Chu and Da Sonam left C3 at 1:15 am (NST). Weather was cold but clear; climbing conditions good. Chu was climbing with another Singaporean team, led by Jane Lee. They saw Everest. They descended to C2, where they arrived at 7 pm. Next day C1 and 25 Sept ABC. He left ABC on 29 Sept.

  Aljunieo reached C1 on 14 Sept. He stayed one night and descended to ABC. He left ABC on 17 Sept for an important business meeting in Singapore.
   
  Bose reached 6800m (above icefall) on 15 Sept. As it was acclimatization trip, he did not intend to go higher; on his descent he heard inner voice telling him not to go any higher. He descended to ABC and left on 17 Sept.

  Xavier reached C2 on 19 Sept and stayed one night. On 21 Sept he descended to ABC and left for Kathmandu on 24 Sept. He abandoned climb due to lack of experience.

  Herbert, Hoby and Jackson reached C2 on 19 Sept. On 20 Sept they descended to C1 and on 21 Sept to ABC to rest. Due to storm they remained at ABC till 28 Sept. On 28 Sept the three climbers, Da Sonam, and Panuru Sherpa ascended to C1.

  Weather was windy but clear. On 29 Sept they ascended to C2 in very bad weather. As the weather forecast was bad for next few days, they decided to descend to ABC on 30 Sept. They left ABC on 3 Oct.

  Sherpas:
    Da Sonam Sherpa, Pangboche, Khumbu, 05/12/1965, Everest X7
    Panuru Sherpa, Phortse, Khumbu, 25/5/68, Everest X6


expid: CHOY07302
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Australia
leaders: Peter Lyons
sponsor: Independent Australian on Cho Oyu
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-09-08
smtdate: 2007-09-16
termdate: 2007-09-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to fatigue by Lyons
campsites: BC(08/09,4900m),ABC(12/09,5700m),C1(15/09,6400m),xxx(16/09,6800m)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Pasang & Lyons left C1 at 7:30 am on 16 Sept Nepali time. Weather was terrific. They climbed to 6800m, but did not intend to climb higher that day. They descended to ABC. They stayed there for 3 days and ascended back to C1 on 9 Sept. That day Lyons was very slow (6 hours ABC to C1) and tired. They stayed 1 night at C1 and descended next day to ABC. On 23 Sept weather deteriorated which reinforced Lyon's decision not to go back up again. However, he had mentally decided to abandon climb on 20 Sept.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Sherpa, 9/3/74, Garima, Solu, Everest 19/5/06 with Garduce (Filipino)


expid: CHOY07304
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Cho Oyu Expedition 2007
countries: Australia, Czech Republic, France, Spain, UK, USA
bcdate: 2007-09-04
smtdate: 2007-09-19
termdate: 2007-10-13
termnote: Abandoned at 7527m due to bad weather (strong winds)
campsites: BC(04/09,4900m),ABC(08/09,5660m),C1(17/09,6389m),C2(18/09,7149m),xxx(19/09,7527m)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  Himex Cho Oyu led by Russell Brice - Autumn 2007

  Intended summit party on 24 Sept occupied C2 for push to top via C3 on 25th and summit on 26th Sept. Members were: Ballinger, Dovell, Henziksen, Hill, Holiday, Hutson, Putnam, Smith and Windle. With them were six Sherpas and four Tibetans. But the wind was too strong for them to go higher on the 25th and instead they descended. This was the highest point reached by any members.

  Six Sherpas had pitched C3 at 7527m on 19 September but they did not sleep there -- the camp was never occupied. This was the Sherpas highest point.

  The weather continued to be very bad with snowfall and strong winds. The members decided on the 27th that they had had enough bad weather with no immediate let up expected and abandoned the climb.

  Two members had already left; Louboutin on the 19th for family reasons, and Pucik on the 23rd because he was not strong enough to go higher than 6500m.

  Sherpas:
    Phurba Tashi, 24/5/71, Khumjung, Cho Oyu X5, Everest X10
    Danuru, 10/4/73, Namche Bazar, Cho Oyu X4
    Lhakpa Nuru, 18/6/80, Phortse, Everest X2, Manaslu X1
    Kami Tshering, 30/8/86, Khumjung, no 8000ers
    Ang Nuru, 29/6/89, Khumjung, no 8000ers
    Nima Tshering (Ngima Chhiri), 22/4/72, Phortse, Everest X2

  Tibetans
    Wangbe (Wang Dui), 1/3/06, Cho Oyu 1/10/06
    Dorje (Dor Jee), Everest 15/5/06
    Pu Tsering (new man, no biodata available)
    Tenzing (Tenzen, Den Zeng), 28/3/83, Shigatse, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X4


expid: CHOY07305
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Australia
leaders: Andrzej Marek
sponsor: Pole and Aussie to Cho Oyu
countries: Poland
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-09-12
smtdate: 2007-09-23
termdate: 2007-09-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to bad weather, insufficient gear
campsites: BC(12/09,4900m),ABC(14/09,5700m),C1(16/09,6400m),xxx(23/09,6700m)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  On 23 Sept team left C1 at 10 am Nepali time. Weather was good when they started. They arrived at high point at about 1 pm. They saw bad weather move in and so they turned back and returned to C1 where they arrived at 2 pm. The next day it was very cloudy so they descended to ABC. On 25 Sept the weather turned very bad and apparently 11 tents were blown away. Team had left a tent at C1, which they shared with a Danish team from Monterosa. According to Danes the tent is undamaged.


expid: CHOY07306
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Lithuania
leaders: Vytautas Gaucys
sponsor: Seven Continents Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-09-05
smtdate: 2007-09-13
termdate: 2007-09-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to bad weather (lots of snow)
campsites: BC(05/09,5000m),ABC(07/09,5700m),C1(10/09,6400m),C2(13/09,7200m),xxx(7200m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  After 13 Sept weather was very bad for two weeks. Between 50-60% of C2 was destroyed by snowfall and wind. Early morning of 23 Sept was good weather and Gaucys left ABC for C1 where he stayed for two nights. Weather was agdain bad. There was not any possibility to go beyond C1 alone. On 25 Sept Gaucys returned to ABC. He left ABC on 29 Sept and arrived Kathmandu on 1 Oct. Gaucys will leave Kathmandu on 3 Oct. Gaucys said when he left ABC, no Sherpas could go to C2 due to chest deep snow.

  Two other members Jonaitis and Uzdauinys left ABC on 26 Sept and arrived Kathmandu on 27 Sept. They will leave Kathmandu on 9 Oct. 


expid: CHOY07307
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Martin Pulkrabek
sponsor: Martin Cho Oyu Expedition 2007
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-09-15
smtdate: 2007-09-28
termdate: 2007-10-02
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(15/09,5000m),ABC(18/09,5700m),C1(21/09,6400m),xxx(28/09,6400m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Pulkrabek went up to C1 on 28 Sept, slept two nights there hoping for good weather but it remained bad. The upper rods holding his tent were broken by the strong wind although the tent was new and made for such extreme weather conditions. About eleven tents were damaged in C1 and 3 tents were blown away. There was about a meter deep snow. Pulkrabek returned to ABC on 30 Sept. He returned to Kathmandu on 3 Oct and will leave for Ama Dablam on 7 Oct.


expid: CHOY07308
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Croatia
leaders: Darko Berljak
sponsor: First Croatian Female Expedition to Cho Oyu
bcdate: 2007-09-05
smtdate: 2007-10-02
smttime: 0955
termdate: 2007-10-06
campsites: BC(05/09,4900m),ABC(07/09,5650m),C1(11/09,6400m),C2(20/09,7130m),C3(01/10,7545m),Smt(02-03/10)
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  First Croatian Female Expedition to Cho Oyu - 9 Oct 2006

  First summit party left C3 at 2:15 am NST on 2 October. They were the two Bostjancic sisters, Simicevic, Lhakpa Nuru, Nawang Jangbu and Pasang Chhiri. They summited at 9:55 am, saw Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse clearly, and descended to C2 at 3:45 pm, very tired and cold. Next day they were in ABC.

  Second summit party left C3 at 2:45 am. They were two members, Macesic and Mijailovic, plus Lhakpa Nuru again from C3 and Dawa Tenzing. Mijailovic and Dawa Tenzing summited at 10:45 am and Macesic with Lhakpa Nuru one hour later. They had perfect weather including no wind and saw the Everest group.

  The climb was over, so the second party cleared the team's camps as they descended. They stayed that night on C2, where they arrived at 4:45 and 5:45 pm, and next day they had all the team's gear in ABC.

  Six bottles of oxygen were taken to Cho Oyu for medical purposes. It was used by only one person during the climb: Mijanialovic from the Yellow Band (7600m) to the top to C2. She was moving very slowly and vomiting, but on oxygen "I really took off" and completed her ascent fast.

  Non-summiting members:

  Berljak stayed at ABC ("it is a female expedition, so males (leader and doctor) not above base," Berljak explained).

  Boban went to C2 on 20 Sept as a member of a proposed third summit party, but there was no time left for a third bid (second party had summited on 3 October, and yaks had been ordered for 5th at ABC).

  Bojko reached C1 on 12 Sept (much slower than the other climbing members and decided not to try to go any higher).

  Carevic got only to 5800m from ABC on 8 Sept (not feeling well, then and wanted to stay in ABC during the rest of the climb).

  Dabic - same as Boban.

  Horvat went up from C1 on 19 Sept to only 6600m (not moving fast enough).

  Kovac left the expedition on 6 Sept, the day after they had arrived at BC. She was weak from altitude sickness and could not acclimatize.

  Levar - same as Boban and Dabic.

  Markovic - same as Berljak.

  Prebeg reached C2 on 20 Sept as member of second summit party, but on 27 Sept was vomiting on the way up to C1 and went down to ABC.

  Randic - same as Bojko.

  Sijan was in second summit party, but on her way up from C1 to C2 on 2 Oct decided to give up at 7400m because she was much slower than the others in the party.

  Vicenski went to C1 on 26 Sept, then stayed in ABC for the rest of the climb because not feeling well.

  Vranjes went to 6600m on 12 Sept (too slow to continue climbing).

  Vrbek went to C1 on 12 Sept, then stayed in ABC for the rest of the climb because not feeling well.

  Zupanic went to C1 on 18 Sept, then stayed in ABC for the rest of the climb because not feeling well.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Tenzing, 21/3/86, Thamo, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X1
    Lhakpa Nuru, 26/9/72, Thami, Everest X8, Cho Oyu X2
    Nawang Jangbu, 16/2/75 or 13/3/75 (4/11/2031 or 29/11/2031), Thami, brother of 
      Lhakpa Nuru, who says Nawang scaled Dhaulagiri I in 2001 and Cho Oyu in 2005
    Pasang Chhiri, 30/1/75, Samde, near Thami, Cho Oyu X2


expid: CHOY07309
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Poland
leaders: Pawel Sokolowski
sponsor: Polish Cho Oyu Expedition 2007
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-09-07
smtdate: 2007-09-17
termdate: 2007-09-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to bad weather and lots of snow
campsites: BC(07/09,5050m),ABC(09/09,5700m),C1(11/09,6400m),xxx(17/09,7000m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 8 Sept at 5250m.

  On 17 Sept Chamielec and Gabarski left C1 at 10 am (CST) to put up C2. When they reached 7000m at about 3 pm (CST) Chamielec did not feel well. There was lots of snow, so then Chamielec and Gabarski returned to C1 at about 4:30 pm. Chamielec and Gabarski were at C1 on 21 Sept, but they could not go beyond C1 due to deep snow. On 22 Sept they got back to ABC. 

  High point for Henzel was C1 (6400m) on 11 Sept. He got sore throat and antibiotic did not work to cure it. Then he descended to CBC. Henzel returned to Kathmandu on 18 Sept. 

  Pieta went up to C1 on 11 Sept; rest of the time stayed at ABC. 

  Sokolowski while in Intermediate Camp suffered from cough and cold and breathing problem and stayed at ABC for rest of the time. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 27 Sept and will leave on 11 Oct.

  Note: After Sokolowski departure, Gabarski took the responsibility of leadership.


expid: CHOY07310
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Yoshitomi Okura
sponsor: Adventure Guides Cho Oyu Expedition 2007
bcdate: 2007-09-13
smtdate: 2007-10-03
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2007-10-07
campsites: BC(13/09,4900m),ABC(17/09,5700m),C1(20/09,6450m),C2(23/09,7200m),C3(29/09,7600m),Smt(03-04/10)
accidents: One altitude sickness case (Yoshida)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Adventure Guides Cho Oyu Expedition 2007 led by Yoshitomi Okura - 10 Oct 2007

  First summit party of four members and two Sherpas reached the top at 10:30 am NST on 3rd Oct. They were Amano, Fujikura, Hiraoka, Tsuchiya, Dawa Chiri and Gomba Sherpa. They left C3 at 4:00 am that morning and descended to C2 at 2:00 pm.

  Second party of two members and three Sherpas were on top between 9:10 and 9:30 am on 4th Oct. They were Tamura, Okura, Pasang Kaji, Phurba Chhiri and Dirga Sing Tamang. They left C3 and 4:50 am and down to C2 at 12:00 noon. (Tamura is unable to hear and speak.)

  Both parties saw Everest and Lhotse from the summit and at the summit many prayer flags and Khadas.

  Minamii turned back at 6660m on 23 Sept. He was 72 years old and had a pacemaker attached to his heart; he decided he should go no higher. 

  Yoshida reached C3 on 3 Oct, then suffered from altitude sickness and made no bid to go higher.

  Kido as base camp manager remained at ABC throughout the climb.

  Oxygen: Members in summit pushes (including Yoshida who did not continue up from C3) used it sleeping in C1 and climbing from C2 to C3 to top to C2 and in C1. Sherpas used no oxygen.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Dawa Chiri/Chhiri, 20/2/67, Kurima, Lokhim, Solu, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2, 
      Makalu X2, Manaslu X1
    Dirga Sing Tamang, 26/9/67, Kerung, Solu, no 8000ers
    Gomba Sherpa, 3/10/67, Sotang, Solu
    Pasang Kaji, 24/2/81, Sotang, Solu, no 8000ers
    Phurba Chhiri/Phurba Tshering/Phura Chhiri, 4/10/68 (19/6/2025)? 5/10/69
     (19/6/2026)?, Kurima, Lokhim, Everest X4, Lhotse & Manaslu X2, Cho Oyu X1, K2 X1


expid: CHOY07311
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Kiyoshi Ushijima
sponsor: Independent Japanese on Cho Oyu
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-09-07
smtdate: 2007-10-02
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2007-10-05
campsites: BC(07/09,4900m),ABC(09/09,5700m),C1(13/9,6400m),C2(24/09,7100m),C3(01/10,7400m),Smt(02/10)
agency: Amuse Treks
routememo:
  Team left C3 at 12:30 am. Weather was clear and cold. No wind, deep snow but trail was already broken. Good views on summit and saw Everest. They spent about 20 minutes on summit, then descended to C2, where they arrived at 4 pm. On 3 Oct they descended to ABC.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa, Namche, Khumbu, 23/5/78, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X1


expid: CHOY07312
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Singapore
leaders: Jane Lee
sponsor: Singapore Women's Everest Expedition 2008
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-08-23
smtdate: 2007-09-23
smttime: 1020
termdate: 2007-09-29
campsites: BC(23/08,5250m),ABC(26/08,5600m),C1(04/09,6400m),C2(11/09,7100m),C3(22/09,7400m),Smt(23/09)
achievment: 1st Singaporean women to summit
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  On 23 Sept all climbing members and six Sherpas left C3 at 1:30 am (NST) Jane Lee reached summit at about 10:20 am and by 11:10 am all members and Sherpas were on summit except Peh Gee Lee due to low level of supply of oxygen (she turned around from near 8000m at around 12 noon). The members stayed on summit between 10 to 30 minutes. All members descended to C2 at about 8 pm except Peh Gee Lee and Mok who stayed at C3. Li Hui Lee and Soo next day to ABC, rest at C1. Following day all to ABC. 

  Weather on summit was very good but slightly windy, climbers saw Everest and other mountain. On the summit according to leader Lee there were Swiss? and Sherpas and behind them were Italians, Spanish. 

  The team returned Kathmandu on 30 Sept and will leave on 5 and 6 Oct. Next year spring the same team with an additional female member will come for Everest south.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Kami Tshering, aka Ang Tshering, 1962, Pangboche-7 or 8, Everest X8, Cho Oyu X5
    Finjo Dorje Sherpa, 03-09-1986, Pangboche-7 or 8, Everest 21/5/2007
    Mingma Tenzing, 01-06-1986, Khumjung-9, Phortse, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2
    Jamling Bhote, 28-12-1977, Hongaon, Makalu, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1
    Karma Rita Sherpa, 21-01-1976, Khumjung-9, Phortse, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X2


expid: CHOY07313
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: China
leaders: Ngawang Norbu
sponsor: Chinese Amateurs Mountaineering Team
countries: USA
bcdate: 2007-09-09
smtdate: 2007-09-24
smttime: 0745
campsites: BC(09/09,4950m),ABC(12/09,56500m),C1(6050m),C2(7100m),C3(7500m),Smt(24/09)
agency: None
routememo:
  According to Chinese web site (www.mt8848.com), the team summited

  Sirdar was Tashi Tshering (Tshaxi Tse Ren).

  From www.mt8848.com

  2007 autumn summit Cho Oyu data 
  Published: at 18:12 on September 28, 2007 

    Name, Gender, Top time, Certificate No. summit 

    Wang Shi (M) At 10:00 am (7:45 NST), September 24, 2007 (2007-1315) 
    Wang Jing (F) At 10:00 am, September 24, 2007 (2007-1314)
    Qiu Zi-Gang (M) At 10:00 am, September 24, 2007 (2007-1317)
    Huang Zong-Hua (M) At 10:00 am, September 24, 2007 (2007-1316)
    Barclay Christopher John (M) At 10:00 am, September 24, 2007 (2007-1313)

  Staff: From outdoor.travel.sohu.com:
    Leaders: Ngawang Norbu, Tashi Tsering
    Guides: Chimi Tashi, Sonam Tashi, Dechen Ngodup, Big Norbu, Wangchen Sonam
    Asst Guides: Tsering Tashi, Norbu Dhondup, Lobsang Ngodup
    Chef: Phurbu Tsering
    Asst Chefs: Temba, Nima 


  Email from Qiu Zi-Qiang - 15, 16 December 2009

  Regarding to your question on 2007 Cho Oyu, I have some trouble for the Tibatan names because I only know their Chinese spellings. From your name list of the Tibetans, I can recognize and confirm the following from my memory.

  1  Tibetan leader (Nawang Norbu, also the Sherpa of Shi Wang)
  2  Qimi Tashi, the Sherpa of Zong-Hua Huang
  3  Dechen Narjup, the Sherpa of Zi-Qiang Qiu
  4  Tashi Tsering, the Sherpa of Ms. Jing Wang
  5  There were definitely Norbu and Wangchen in the summiting team.  
  6  I couldn't recall who is Sonam Tashi. He may be the Sherpa to break the trails.
  7  The Sherpa of Christopher Barclay is missing in your list. He was definitely 
     in the summiting team. His name is Tsering Danda (again I am spelling his 
     name in Chinese way. He is the brother of Ms. Tsering Wangmu who was the girl 
     holding Olympic torch on Everest summit last year. I think he might be also 
     on the Everest summit last year). 
  8  From my memory, all Tibetans did not use oxygen that day.

  For the five climbers (non-Tibetans) on 2007 Cho Oyu, Christopher Barclay and Jing Wang used oxygen for sleep at high camp (c3, ~7500m). Shi Wang, Zong-Hua Huang, and I did not use oxygen at C3 because we were thinking to summit without using oxygen. But at big snow changed our mind so that Zong-Hua Huang and I started to use oxygen at the departure of C3, but Shi Wang didn't use until he climbed to somewhere and felt he needed to use oxygen.


expid: CHOY07314
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Austria
leaders: Christian Stangl
sponsor: Stangl to Cho Oyu
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-09-15
smtdate: 2007-10-01
smttime: 0806
termdate: 2007-10-05
campsites: BC(15/09,4700m),ABC(18/09,5700m),C1(20/09,6400m),Smt(01/10)
achievment: Speed climb
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Stangl started from ABC at 5 pm on 30 Sept and went straight to summit. Weather was perfect not cold, not windy. He overtook a group of six climbers plus 2 Sherpas just above Yellow Band. Good views of Everest. He spent about 10 minutes on summit. He descended to C2, where he arrived at about 10:30 am, spent the night there and descended to ABC next day.

  ABC to summit in 15 hours + 6 minutes.


expid: CHOY07315
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Diego Fregona
sponsor: Italian on Cho Oyu
bcdate: 2007-09-11
smtdate: 2007-10-02
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2007-10-05
campsites: BC(11/09,4900m),ABC(13/09,5700m),C1(20/09,6400m),C2(24/09,7100m),Smt(02/10)
accidents: Slight frostbite on right foot
agency: None
routememo:
  Fregona left C2 together with Bruno Buchet at midnight. They reached C3 at 2 am. Fregona's feet were very cold and he was worried about frostbite. They went into an empty tent and Fregona was trying to warm up his feet. Buchet left him and 5:30 am and carried on to the summit. Once the sun came out Fregona was getting warmer and decided to carry on to the summit. He felt good and strong and reached the summit at 2 pm. He spent 1/2 hour there and shot a video (which I saw). He descended to C2 where he arrived at 5 pm. On 3 Oct he dismantled C2 and C1 and returned to ABC.

  Christian Stangl and Tom Van den Berghe, who also summited Cho Oyu with Asian Trekking, had doubts about Fregona summiting. Van den Berghe phoned met me on 1 Oct to express his doubts. He said when he saw Fregona at C3 at 8 am he looked very weak and he does not believe that Fregona only took 5 hours from C3 to summit. However, I contacted Fregona after my conversation with Van den Berghe and Fregona showed me the video he took and he was clearly on the summit. Good views of Everest right into the Western Cwm.


expid: CHOY07316
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Richard Bolt
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Cho Oyu Expedition 2007
countries: Austria, Germany
bcdate: 2007-09-08
smtdate: 2007-10-04
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2007-10-07
campsites: BC(08/09,4900m),ABC(11/09,5700m),C1(16/09,6400m),C2(21/09,7100m),C3(03/10,7400m),Smt(04/10)
agency: Iceland Trekking (Dorje)
routememo:
  Summit team left C3 at 1 am. Weather was clear but cold and windy. Snow condition good. Good views of Everest. They spent about 1/2 hour on summit. Team apart from Brupacher descended to ABC, where they arrived at 1 pm. 

  Bindig reached high point intermediate camp about 6000m on 10 Sept. He was not feeling well and felt homesick, so he returned to Kathmandu (left expedition about 12 Oct).

  Culmsee reached C2 on 2 Oct, stayed the night, then descended to ABC on 3 Oct due to exhaustion. 

  Goerlich reached 7300m on 3 Oct, turned back due to exhaustion, and descended to C1.

  Jasper reached C1 on 16 Sept and 20 Sept. He was struggling with altitude and abandoned climb. He left BC on 24 Sept.

  Lieske got to 7300m on 3 Oct, turned back due to back pain, and descended to C1.

  Anneliesa and Roland Maruna got to C1 on 1 Oct. They did not feel well and turned back to ABC.

  Santer reached 7600m on 4 Oct and turned back at around 2:30 am due to dissatisfaction with his gear. 

  Schoenhoff reached C2 on 3 Oct, stayed the night, and descended to C1 on 4 Oct.

  Tschannen reached 7300m on 3 Oct and turned back due to exhaustion.


expid: CHOY07317
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Austria
leaders: Walter Laserer
sponsor: Austrians on Cho Oyu
approach: Lhasa->Gyantse->Xigatse->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-09-07
smtdate: 2007-09-22
termdate: 2007-10-03
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(07/09,4900m),ABC(10/09,5700m),C1(17/09,6400m),C2(22/09,7100m),xxx(22/09,7100m)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  Team got to C2 on 22 Sept for acclimatization climb. On 23 Sept they descended to ABC and remained there until 28 Sept. When they ascended to C1 they stayed the night and descended to ABC and remained there until 28 Sept. Then they reascended to C1, stayed the night and descended to ABC. The next day the reason for descending was the strong wind. Weather forecast was also very bad. Ang Jangbu told them on the radio that weather would remain bad. 


expid: CHOY07318
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Helga Schubert
sponsor: Helga Schubert Cho Oyu Expedition 2007
approach: Lhasa->Gyantse->Xigatse->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-09-08
smtdate: 2007-10-01
termdate: 2007-10-07
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to her climbing gear stolen from C1
campsites: BC(08/09,4900m),ABC(11/09,5700m),C1(17/09,6350m),xxx(01/10,6800m)
agency: Makalu Adventure
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 10 Sept at 5300m.

  On 1 Oct Schubert went to C1 and she found that all her climbing gear was stolen, so she climbed up to 6800m just to see the route and turned back to ABC. 

  She returned to Kathmandu on 8 Oct and will leave on 11 Oct. She will never go to Cho Oyu again.


expid: CHOY07319
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Russia
leaders: Vladimir Zadokhin
sponsor: Russians on Cho Oyu
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-09-07
smtdate: 2007-10-02
smttime: 1553
termdate: 2007-10-05
campsites: BC(07/09,4900m),ABC(09/09,5700m),C1(12/09,6400m),C2(16/09,7100m),Smt(02/10)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Korshunov started from C2 at 9 am. He reached C3 at noon and carried on to summit straight away. Good views of Everest, very strong wind. He descended to C2, arrived at 6:30 pm. Stayed night there and descended to ABC on 3 Oct.

  Klochko reached about 6600m on 20 Sept just below the icefall. He felt the altitude and descended to ABC the same day. He left ABC on 25 Sept. Zadokhin, according to Van Den Berghe reached C2 on 16 Sept and slept there. On 23 Sept he had stayed at C1 and got a bad throat infection. He descended to ABC the next day and left ABC on 25 Sept. 

  Ascent disputed by Bruno Buchet and Tom Van Den Berghe. Van Den Berghe saw Korshunov at 8:40 am at C2. He does not think Korshunov was getting ready to go up that day. Van Den Berghe was expecting him to go up on 3 Oct.

  Buchet, who summited on 2 Oct at 1 pm, said that he never saw Korshunov above C3, which he should have down on his way down. Neither did Diego Fregona from Italy. Kiyoshi Ujijima's Sherpa, Lhakpa, said he saw Korshunov at C3 on 2 Oct (thats what he told Van Den Berghe).

  The next time Van Den Berghe was at ABC 3 Oct. He said Korshunov never said anything about the summit (however, communication is difficult as Korshunov's English is very bad). The first time Asian Trekking clients heard about his summit success was at Asian Trekking's office on 7 Oct. When Korshunov signed the paper stating his summit. They were all surprised!!

  (Korshunov spoke very little German, so communication was difficult. No English at all).


  Latvian Cho Oyu members regarding Boris Korshunov - 14 Oct 2007

  Boris Korshunov was a member of a three-man Russian Cho Oyu expedition led by Vladimir Zadokhin and claimed to have summited on 2 Oct.

  The three-member Latvian Cho Oyu team said on their return from their ascent that their leader, Atis Plakans, met Boris in C3 and chatted with him from 12:00 to 12:30 pm on the 2nd while Plakans was pitching a tent (he had seen him in C2 on the 1st). Plakans left C3 at 3:30 pm and didn't see the Russian again that day -- didn't see him going up or down, but assumed he had either gone into someone else's tent or down to C2. On the 3rd, Plakans met him next in C2 at 10:30 am and in C1 at 3:30 pm. Boris said nothing to Plakans about having summited, which is odd if he actually had. This team was not prepared to state flatly whether he had or not; they seemed quite doubtful but were basically undecided whether he did or did not reach the top. 


  Abramov Russian Cho Oyu members regarding Boris Korshunov - 16 Oct 2007

  Abramov, Chesnokov and Moskalov said they believed Korshunov's summit claim. He was a very fast climber; went from ABC to C1 in 2 hours 31 minutes and from C1 to C2 in 3 hours 15 minutes, a climb that normally takes five or six hours. He is a marathon runner. He is very strong and was in good condition.

  He normally does not use oxygen, but in this summit push he took Abramov's advice to use it: he started using it probably at the Yellow Band (he said at "the rock") and continued to use it to the summit. Where he stopped, these Russians didn't know.

  In his interview with Billi Bierling on 7 Oct, Korshunov said that his team did not have oxygen with them and did not use any; on the team's arrival, his leader told Billi they were taking some for medical use only. Abramov confirmed to Katya -- see below that Boris's team had brought oxygen with them and left it with Boris when they left before him.

  Katya Goryshina of Royal Mountain Travel spoke with Abramov and other teammates on 18 Oct. They were inclined to believe Boris because he had made many speed climbs, recently setting a record on Elbrus; they think it was possible for him to descend in the extremely brief time cited by French climber Buchet in his email of 17 October mentioned below. But "they also know that sometimes he loses his mind." They will speak with Boris's teammates on return to Russia and report back to Katya.

  Katya's husband spoke with Boris on his return to Kathmandu: Boris said he had summited but gave no details.

  Belgian Cho Oyu leader Tom van Den Berghe told Billi Bierling on 4 Nov in Kathmandu that the Russian team of which Boris was a member had two oxygen bottles at C2. He does not believe that Boris reached the summit.

  French Cho Oyu Climber Bruno Buchet said in an email of 17 Oct 2007 that he has no doubt at all that Korshunov did not reach the summit.


  Email from Bruno Buchet - 17 Oct 2007

  I was shocked to hear that he had summited in Asian Trekking offices because of course it was breaking news for everyone! He had never before mentioned it with us in the group and although we had difficulties communicating (as you know the old man had poor German and no English); the new came as a total surprise to me. I didn't say anything because I thought that if it would make an old man happy, well...

  But later at home I realized Boris was everywhere! I promptly asked Asian Trekking to withdraw his photo from its expedition result page because it was a lie and Jiten Shrestha complied, but he's still on EverestNews with pretty stinking notions that the Russians are really the best and lost longer than anyone. Honestly I would care little if he was not making such noise but now I think the truth should come out: he never went past C3 where he was seen by Kiyoshi's Sherpa Lhakpa on Oct 2nd.

  When I left C2 at 0:3 on Oct 2nd he was in his Ferrino tent which he had started digging out from the ice right across [from] mine and when I returned to my tent the same day after summiting, he was in his tent at 4:30 because he offered a cup of tea and didn't say anything about what he had been doing. I remember he said in Kathmandu he had summited at 3:53 pm that day but he couldn't have returned to be in his tent 45 minutes later, and he didn't look like a [man] who has just summited.


expid: CHOY07320
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Rafael Garcia Belderrain
sponsor: Independent Spanish to Cho Oyu
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-09-16
smtdate: 2007-09-30
termdate: 2007-10-02
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to bad weather and started feeling cold
campsites: BC(16/09,4800m),ABC(19/09,5700m),C1(20/09,6400m),C2(21/09,7100m),C3(30/09,7700m),xxx(30/09,7700m)
accidents: Initial stage of frostbite in toes
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Garcia Belderrain left ABC at 8 pm on 30 Sept and reached C1 at 10:30 pm; left C1 at 11:30 pm and reached C2 at 2:30 am of 1 Oct. Started at 3:30 am and reached C3 at 5 am. He realized that his toes are getting cold, so then he decided to turn around. Reached C2 at 5:30 am, then rested for about four hours to warm up as it was very cold; descended to ABC at about 5 pm. 

  Garcia Belderrain returned to Kathmandu on 3 Oct and will leave on 6 Oct.


expid: CHOY07321
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Bruno Buchet
sponsor: Frenchman on Cho Oyu
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-09-07
smtdate: 2007-10-02
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2007-10-05
campsites: BC(07/09,4900m),ABC(09/09,5700m),C1(11/09,6400m),C2(01/10,7100m),Smt(02/10)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Buchet left C2 at midnight with Diego Fregona from Italy. It was cold and windy. They reached C3 at 2 am. Fregona had very cold feet. They were massaging his feet and at about 5:30 am Buchet carried on. He got to top at 1 pm and was on his own. He saw Everest and showed me pictures. He stayed on summit for about 45 minutes and when he descended he met Fregona who was on his way up. Buchet descended to C2, where he arrived at 4:45 pm. Next day he descended to ABC.


expid: CHOY07322
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Javier Campos
sponsor: Independent Spaniard on Cho Oyu
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-09-05
smtdate: 2007-09-23
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2007-10-01
campsites: BC(05/09),ABC(08/09,5700m),C1(10/09,6400m),C2(14/09,7150m),Smt(23/09)
accidents: Slightly frostbitten toes (will heal)
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Parajuli)
routememo:
  Left C2 for summit with 4 Italians (Andreatta, Modolo, Tonidandel, and Sebastian) with whom he did much of his climbing (they met in Kathmandu for the first time). They left at 10:45 pm NST 22 Sept and Campos on top 1:00 pm 23 Sept (Italians before him). Saw Everest and Lhotse very clearly. Campos returned to C2 at 8:30 pm (with Tonidandel) and spent that night in C2; it was windy and snow fell during the night. 24th Campos opened the route to ABC to first serac.


expid: CHOY07323
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Frederik Prieur-Blanc
sponsor: Stage Expeditions Cho Oyu
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-09-08
smtdate: 2007-09-20
termdate: 2007-09-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7050m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(08/09,4900m),ABC(12/09,5700m),C1(19/09,6400m),xxx(20/09,7050m)
accidents: Mild AMS by Thimbaud
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Rai)
routememo:
  Team left C1 at 7 am (NST) on 20 Sept. They made it to C2 in 4 hours. It was an acclimatization trip so they descended to C1 where they arrived between 12 noon and 3 pm. They stayed at C1 for 2 more nights and descended to ABC on 22 Sept. Bad weather moved in on 23 Sept. On 26 Sept high point team ascended to C1 and found that 3 of their tents were blown away. They collected the rest of their stuff and descended to ABC.

  Thimbaud got to C1 on 20 Sept. He felt altitude sickness, stayed one night, then descended to ABC and left ABC on 22 Sept.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Tshering Sherpa, 27/12/73, Thami, Everest Spring 2006, Cho Oyu X1, 
      Lhotse X1, K2 X1
    Ang Temba Sherpa, 25/7/1978, Thami/Mende, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1

  Pasang and Ang Temba are brothers.


expid: CHOY07324
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Juan Carlos Gonzalez
sponsor: Arabako Expedizio 2007 - Basque Country to Cho Oyu
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-08-31
smtdate: 2007-09-23
smttime: 1115
termdate: 2007-09-26
campsites: BC(31/08,5000m),ABC(03/09,5700m),C1(05/09,6400m),C2(08/09,7100m),Smt(23/09)
accidents: Frostbites: 3 toes in right foot of Alzola, and middle and index fingers of Chicon both hands
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Alzola, Garcia, Gonzalez and Martin left C2 at 2 am (CST) on 23 Sept. Alzola reached summit at about 1:30 pm (CST). Garcia, Gonzalez and Martin at about 2 pm. Summiters stayed on summit about half an hour and descended to C2 at 10 pm. Weather on summit was good but little windy. All members saw Everest for short time. There was cloud on Everest side. Other summiters on that day were Singaporean women members and Sherpas, two Americans (maybe) & 2 Sherpas, two Italians; about 8-10 foreigners and Sherpas. This Spanish team was the last one to summit on that day. Other days weather was very bad lot of snow and strong wind. 2-3 tents of Norwegian expedition were blown away at C1. 

  The team returned Kathmandu on 27 Sept and will leave on 28 Sept.


expid: CHOY07326
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Ricardo Jimenz
sponsor: Independent Spaniard on Cho Oyu
bcdate: 2007-09-02
smtdate: 2007-09-02
termdate: 2007-09-04
termnote: Abandoned at base camp due to acute altitude sickness
campsites: BC(02/09,5000m)
agency: Ramdung Expedition
routememo:
  Never went above BC. Trip from KTM too quick; others in his party from Monterosa Trekking also had altitude problems. Jimenez had no food for 5 days, no water for 3 days. An American doctor at BC told him he had cerebral and pulmonary edema.

  Returned to Kathmandu 4 Sept and on 5 Sept not sure whether or not he would return to BC (depended on what doctor told him in Kathmandu).

  9 Sept - trekking agent said he returned to Spain on 8 Sept.


expid: CHOY07327
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Frank Candelier
sponsor: French to Cho Oyu
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-09-08
smtdate: 2007-09-21
termdate: 2007-09-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(08/09,4900m),ABC(10/09,5700m),C1(19/09,6400m),xxx(21/09,7100m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Rai)
routememo:
  High-point team left C1 at 7:30 am (NST) on 21 Sept. Weather was good and conditions Ok. They arrived at 2:30 pm, deposited tent and descended to C1, arrived at 4:30 pm. They descended to ABC on 22 Sept.

  Jarre and Morati got to C2 site on 23 Sept and descended to ABC same day.

  On 27 Sept Candelier went back to C1 to collect their material, but everything was swept away by cyclone. He decided not to go to C2 as he did not think his material would still be there.


expid: CHOY07328
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Francois Marsigny
sponsor: French couple on Cho Oyu
approach: Lhasa->Gyantse->Xigatse->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-09-11
smtdate: 2007-10-03
smttime: 1520
termdate: 2007-10-05
campsites: BC(11/09,4900m),ABC(13/09,5700m),C1(18/09,6400m),C2(02/10,7100m),Smt(03/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Rai)
routememo:
  Team left C2 at 1:35 am on 3 Oct and arrived at C3 at 5:30 am. They had to break trail between C2 and C3 as the wind had blown tracks away. They stopped at C3 for 2 hours to warm up in a tent. It was very cold and windy. When they reached the summit, they had good views of Everest.

  They met two American skiers on the top (probably Rori Stark). They spent 15 minutes on summit and descended to C2 where they arrived at 6:30 pm. The next day they dismantled C2 and C1. They left C2 at 8:30 and arrived at ABC at 2:30 pm.


expid: CHOY07329
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Raul Moreno
sponsor: Independent Spaniards to Cho Oyu
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-09-12
smtdate: 2007-10-05
termdate: 2007-10-06
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to bad weather (very cold)
campsites: BC(12/09,4900m),ABC(15/09,5700m),C1(18/09,6400m),C2(21/09,7200m),C3(04/10,7600m),xxx(05/10,7700m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 14 Sept at 5300m.

  On 5 Oct Camacho left C3 at about 6 am (CST); about 7 am he reached at about 7700m. It was very cold and he was exhausted. Then he returned around to C1. 

  Arrjbarren went up to C1 on 18 Sept slept there. His appetite was lost and he was very tired. Rest of the time Arrjbarren remained at ABC. 

  On 3 Oct Moreno and Salom slept at C2. It was very cold and windy. They were worried about probable frostbite and descended to ABC on 4 Oct. 

  The team returned Kathmandu on 8th and will leave on 12 Oct.


expid: CHOY07330
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Norway
leaders: Cecilie Skog
sponsor: Norwegian Hiking Vikings
approach: Lhasa->Gyantse->Xigatse->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-09-04
smtdate: 2007-09-19
termdate: 2007-09-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(04/09,4900m),ABC(09/09,5700m),C1(18/09,6400m),C2(19/09,7100m),xxx(19/09,7100m)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  High team left C1 at 9:30 am (NST). Weather was good and hot, snow conditions good. They got to C2 at 5:30 pm. Next day they descended to ABC. On 24 Sept all six members went back to C1. They had stormy night. Four of Russell Brice's tents were blown away. On 25 Sept they descended to ABC again. On 28 Sept Padoy, Skog and Yttervik went to C1 again, but there was high wind and they went back down.

  Yttervik got to 6800m (above icefall) on 21 Sept. It was acclimatization, so she did not go any higher. She did not join high point team on 19 Sept due to bad stomach.

  Sherpas:
    Dorje Sonam Gyalzen, 24/5/81, Phortse, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X1
    Nuru Gyalzen, 18/8/73, Phortse, Everest X2


expid: CHOY07331
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Denmark
leaders: Rikke Stefensen
sponsor: Danish Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-09-02
smtdate: 2007-09-16
termdate: 2007-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to leader's illness
campsites: BC(02/09,4900m),ABC(09/09,5700m),C1(11/09,6400m),C2(16/09,7100m),xxx(16/09,7100m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Jensen and Stefensen went to C1 on 10 Oct. They were trying to go to C2; about one fourth of the way Stefesen suffered from breathing problem; then they descended to ABC. The IMG Doctor at ABC told Stefensen that she was suffering from pneumothorax (hole in right lung). 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 6 Oct and will leave on 11 Oct. They went to CIWEC for check up.


expid: CHOY07332
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Norway
leaders: Sven Gangdal
sponsor: Norwegian Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 2007-09-12
smtdate: 2007-09-18
termdate: 2007-10-02
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to strong winds and lack of time
agency: Tseringma Treks
campsites:
  BC(12/09,4900m),ABC(15/09,5700m),C1(21/09,6500m),C2(23/09,7100m),Mbrs.xxx(23/09,7100m),Sherpa.xxx(18/09,7500m)

routememo:
  C2 occupied by all members and both Sherpas and down to ABC 24th from 3 days rest. 27th all 5 men up again to C1; 28th to C2. 29th down because fierce winds and some snowfall, so down to ABC. 30th decided to stop climb because no more time.

  Member's high point was C2 at 7100m which they reached on 23 and 28th Sept. Sherpa's high point was 7500m, which they reached on 18 Sept when they placed C3 there; they did not sleep there, but descended same day to ABC.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Tshering/Chhiri, 3/8/71, Beding, Cho Oyu X6, Everest X1, Lhotse, 
      Makalu X1, ...
    Kili Pemba, 16/5/80, Beding, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2, Manaslu X1


expid: CHOY07333
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Phil Crampton
sponsor: Mountain Madness Cho Oyu Expedition 2007
countries: UK
bcdate: 2007-09-03
smtdate: 2007-09-23
smttime: 0845
termdate: 2007-09-27
campsites: BC(03/09,4900m),ABC(06/09,5600m),C1(07/09,6400m),C2(11/09,7000m),C3(22/09,7450m),Smt(23/09)
agency: Mountain Madness
routememo:
  Left C3 for top on 22 Sept at 11:45 pm NST and reached summit plateau at 5:45 am; were first to reach plateau in light snowfall and light wind and took 3-1/2 hours through deep snow drifts up to waist deep snow to get to top with Tibetans in lead till last one hour, when Crampton led. Had been heavier snowfall lower on mountain and found more deep snow. Reached C3 at 11:45 am and C2 at 2:45 pm. Down to C1 on 24th at 3:00 pm and stopped there. Skirucha very tired. On 24th huge storm started at 8:15 pm and continued till 9:00 am on 25th badly damaged both tents. Never seen such a storm, but managed to get to ABC on 26th by noon.

  Oxygen: both members used oxygen from C3 to top to C3; Crampton and Tibetans none.

  At summit couldn't see Everest because it was covered in clouds, but Crampton having been there before and having GPS was sure they were there.

  Tibetans summiters:
    Thumba (Dompa, Dunba), 1/10/81 Shigatse, Cho Oyu X3, Everest X1
    Gonga Da, Cho Oyu 2/10/06 (Brice exped)


  Mountain Madness Cho Oyu Expedition

  Questions raised about expedition's success and Crampton's reply

  Miss Zhenahen Jane Lee, leader of Singaporean women's expedition said by telephone on 5 Oct 2007: Crampton's team stopped 20 minutes before the true summit. Her team reached same point later and her experienced Sherpas said it was not the summit; she is very sure Crampton's party did not succeed. Her party was just behind Crampton where there were prayer flags. (Singaporeans summit photo shows them standing in calf-deep snow -- Crampton on 2 Oct had spoken of knee and waist-deep snow.)

  Mike Hamill, leader of IMG (American) expedition, said on 5 Oct: he saw Crampton's party sitting for at least 20 minutes on edge of plateau and wondered whether he really summited. Crampton in a lower camp "worked very hard to convince me he had summited": his insistence raised doubts in Hamill's mind.

  Russell Brice, Himex team, on 6 Oct had not heard about waist-deep snow on the plateau and doubted it, but he didn't know whether the Crampton party summited.

  Crampton and his client Brad Crawford on 8 Oct were emphatic that they had summited. "If we had gone farther on, we would have fallen off," said Crampton. From the edge of the summit plateau, they went to the right a bit and then straight ahead across the plateau. They were two hours ahead of the Singaporeans and broke trail for them. Crampton knows where the summit is having been there in 2006 and their Tibetans, Thumba and Gong Da, also had been there before, Thumba three times and Gong Da once; they knew it well.


expid: CHOY07334
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: John Crellin
sponsor: Independent Briton on Cho Oyu
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-09-07
smtdate: 2007-10-01
termdate: 2007-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to lack of oxygen
campsites: BC(07/09,4900m),ABC(09/09,5700m),C1(18/09,6400m),xxx(01/10,6800m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  On 1 Oct Crellin and Naga left ABC at 7 am Nepali time. They reached C1 at midday, had some food and carried on to high at 2:30 pm. Crellin felt fine but he decided to turn back as he knew that he had no oxygen left for higher up. They descended to C1, dismantled it and descended to ABC. Crellin feels that he was ill advised about oxygen as he only had one bottle.

  Sherpa:
    Nando/Naga/Nang Dorje, Khumjung, 30/12/1966, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X3


expid: CHOY07335
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Stuart Peacock
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Cho Oyu Expedition 2007
bcdate: 2007-09-02
smtdate: 2007-09-28
termdate: 2007-10-02
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to strong winds
campsites: BC(02/09,4900m),ABC(07/09,5700m),C1(11/09,6400m),C2(16/09,7100m),xxx(28/09,7400m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Team left C2 at 9:30 am (NST) on 28 Sept. Weather was very bad and very windy (about 70 mph) at about 3:30 pm. They turned back to C2, where they arrived at 4:30 pm. Team stayed there apart from Shelton-Smith who descended to ABC. Rest of team cleared C2 and C1 on 29 Sept and descended to ABC. On 1 Oct both Sherpas ascended to C3 to retrieve 12 oxygen bottles they had deposited. On 21 Sept it took them 12 hours round-trip.

  Sherpas:  
    Nuru Wangchu, 18/8/77, Pangboche, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X2 
    Sonam Dorje, 18/1/86, Pangboche, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1


expid: CHOY07336
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Belgium
leaders: Tom van den Berghe
sponsor: Independent Belgium on Cho Oyu
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-09-07
smtdate: 2007-10-02
smttime: 0500
termdate: 2007-10-05
campsites: BC(07/09,4900m),ABC(09/09,5700m),C1(17/09,6400m),C2(01/10,7100m),Smt(02/10)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Team left C2 at 9:30 pm on 1 Oct. They reached C3 at about 12:30 am, but did not stop there. When they got to summit they had good views of Everest. They stayed 1 hour and descended to C2, arrived at 8 am. Had a 2-hour rest, dismantled C2, then dismantled C1, then to ABC. They arrived there at about 1 pm. Weather was good and not too windy in the mornings.

  Sherpa:
    Mingma (Dorje) Sherpa 1/10/77, Thamo, Everest X3 (including spring 2007 with
      Marjolein De Bruyker) and Cho Oyu X1


expid: CHOY07337
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Neal Short
sponsor: Jagged Globe Cho Oyu Expedition 2007
countries: Ireland, S Africa
bcdate: 2007-09-11
smtdate: 2007-10-04
smttime: 0837
termdate: 2007-10-08
campsites: BC(11/09,4900m),ABC(15/09,5650m),C1(21/09,6400m),C2(02/10,7150m),C3(03/10,7500m),Smt(04/10)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  Jagged Globe Cho Oyu Expedition 2007 - 10 Oct 2007

  Summit party of six members and four Sherpas left C3 for top at 2:45 am NST on 4 Oct. They were Balfour, Campbell, Murphy, Pickett, Short and Spalding, plus Mingma Dupka, Pasang Tenzing, Dawa Tenzin and Phurba Namgyal. They arrived at the summit between 8:37 and 10:15 am and descended to C2 at 2:00 to 3:00 pm after pausing for an hour in C3 on the way. On the 5th they were back in ABC.

  The weather was very clear; they had fine views of Everest and Lhotse and found a lot of prayer flags at the summit.

  Janet and Keith Rodber reached 6650m on 28 Sept and then turned back because Keith was having respiratory problems. His wife Janet went down with him. This was the only serious medical problem amongst members and Sherpas (they stayed at ABC till the others were ready to leave for Kathmandu).

  Oxygen was used by all summit party members. Pickett used it from C2 to top to C2. The others from C3 to top to C3. The Sherpas did not use any.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Dawa Tenzin (Dawa Tenji), 31/10/75, Beding, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1
    Mingma Dukpa, Beding
    Pasang Tenzing, 1/10/84, Beding, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X3
    Phurba Namgyal, 7/2/86, Beding, Cho Oyu 24/5/06


expid: CHOY07338
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Latvia
leaders: Atis Plakans
sponsor: Latvian Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 2007-09-19
smtdate: 2007-10-09
smttime: 1530
termdate: 2007-10-11
campsites: BC(19/09),ABC(21/09,5700m),C1(26/09,6420m),C2(01/10,7100m),C3(08/10,7500m),Smt(09/10)
accidents: Nothing except numb fingers from cold
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Latvian Cho Oyu Expedition - 14 Oct 2000

  The three members Atis Plakans (leader), wife Liga Plakane, and Kaspars Klapkalns, left C3 for the summit on 9 Oct at 5:45 am. They had waited for the sunrise for a little warmth from the sun and for the wind to die, as it did at sunrise. Klapkalns reached the summit at 3:30 pm. He was an hour ahead of his teammates because he had started to use oxygen at 8000m whereas they were using none. They saw the tops of Everest and Lhotse and as they moved forward the more and more of the two mountains were visible. They returned to C3 at 6:00 pm (Klapkalns, still on oxygen) and 7:15 pm (the others).

  Mrs Plakane was the first Latvian woman to reach any 8000m summit.

  They spent the nights of the 8th and 9th in C3. On the 10th they arrived at ABC after dark, at 6:30 pm (Plakane and Plakans) and 7:30 pm (Klapkalns).

  Oxygen used only by Klapkalns from 8000m to the summit to C3. The others never used any.


expid: CHOY07339
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Poland
leaders: Ryszard Pawlowski
sponsor: Patagonia Mountain Agency (PMA) Cho Oyu Expedition 2007
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-09-27
smtdate: 2007-10-15
termdate: 2007-10-18
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to cold and wind
campsites: BC(27/09,4900m),ABC(29/09,5700m),C1(02/10,6400m),C2(06/10,7100m),C3(14/10,7600m),xxx(15/10,7800m)
accidents: HAPE by Gasowska; serious stomach illness by Pawlowski
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Szepieniec and Sonam left C3 at 2 am (CST) on 15 Oct. It was clear but windy and very cold. They reached 7800m after one hour but turned back due to cold. They descended to ABC and arrived at 8:30 pm. 

  Bartochowski reached C2 on 11 Oct, stayed one night, but did not want to carry on. Descended to ABC on 12 Oct. 

  Gasowska reached Chinese BC on 27 Sept. She left for Kathmandu on 28 Sept due to altitude sickness. 

  Kalisz reached ABC on 29 Sept. She left for Kathmandu on 30 Sept to accompany Pawlowski, who was very sick. 

  Oblicki reached 6900m on 8 Oct. He was with Tauszynski and abandoned climb due to altitude sickness. 

  Pawlowski reached ABC on 29 Sept. He had severe stomach pain. On 30 Sept his stomach was swollen and hard. Brice's doctor told him to go down immediately. 7 Tibetans carried him down to interim camp from where he was picked up by a jeep. He arrived in Kathmandu on 1 Oct, went straight to Norvic clinic and was operated on the same day. He had renal insufficiency and perforated bowel with peritonitis.

  Rusinek reached C2 on 8 Oct, stayed 1 night, but did not feel well and descended to ABC on 9 Oct.

  Soszynski reached 7700m on 15 Oct, the day high point was reached. He climbed without oxygen but got too cold. He turned back to C3, where he waited for Sonam and Szepieniec.  

  Sulwinski reached 7300m on 14 Oct, but his feet were very cold and as he was worried about frostbite, he turned back.

  Tauszynski reached 7000m together with Oblicki on 8 Oct. He was not feeling well, so he abandoned climb.

  Sherpa: 
    Lhakpa Chhiri, 17/11/74, Pangboche, Everest X5, K2 X1


expid: CHOY07340
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Canada
leaders: John Furneaux
sponsor: Canada West Mountain School Cho Oyu Expedition
countries: USA
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-09-11
smtdate: 2007-09-28
termdate: 2007-10-02
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(11/09,4900m),ABC(13/09,5700m),C1(21/09,6400m),xxx(28/09,6700m)
accidents: Furneaux had HAPE; Hill had respiratory infection
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  High point team left C1 at 9:30 am and got to high point at 3 pm. As the weather worsened they turned back to C1, where they arrived at 5 pm. As the weather did not improve they descended to ABC on 29 Sept and decided not to go back up. 

  Ainscough and Browning reached 6000m (deposit camp) on 18 Sept; so did Furneaux and Sasseville. Furneaux felt very sick and he and Sasseville descended to ABC the same evening. They left deposit camp at 8 pm. However, Furneaux was too ill to make it all the way and rested at 5800m whilst Sasseville went to ABC and sent Sherpas up to help him. They arrived at ABC at 1 am.

  On 19 Sept Ainscough and Browning descended to ABC on 20 Sept with rest of the team.

  Sherpa:
    Phurba Ridar Bhote, 1958-9, Chepuwa-4, Makalu, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2


expid: CHOY07342
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Russia
leaders: Alex Abramov
sponsor: Seven Summits Club Cho Oyu Expedition
countries: Ukraine
bcdate: 2007-09-19
smtdate: 2007-10-10
smttime: 0645
termdate: 2007-10-14
campsites: BC(19/09,4900m),ABC(21/09,5700m),C1(26/09,6400m),C2(01/10,7100m),C3(09/10,7500m),Smt(10/10)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  7 Summits Club Cho Oyu Expedition - 16 Oct 2007

  The summit party of 10 Oct consisted of Abramov, Beloyvan, Chesnokov, Moskalev, Semenov, Zhelezov, plus Sherpas Pemba Tenzing, Mingma Gelu, Pasang and Nima Ongdi.

  Semenov and Pemba Tenzing left C3 at 2:00 am (CST) on 10 Oct. The other five members and three Sherpas left at 4:00 am. All were on the summit at around 9:00 am. They found a framed picture of a Buddhist monk whom they though was probably the Dalai Lama, and from where they stood, a bit before the edge of the plateau, they saw Everest and Lhotse but not the Western Cwm. They stayed half an hour; it was not windy but very cold when they ahd climbed up from C3.

  Abramov believed it was safest to for everyone to go down quickly to ABC, so he got all his members and Sherpas in ABC in the dark the same day; they arrived at ABC between 10:00 and 11:00 pm.

  Kosarev reached C3 with the summit party, but Abramov told him he could not go to the summit because he was very slow and had arrived at C3 very late; he had a stomach ache.

  Although everyone was in ABC for the night of the 10th/11th, they could not leave ABC until the 14th because of a long wait for yaks to take them away.

  Shfin, a well-known tennis athlete, had already left; he did no climbing. In fact he arrived with the team in the morning of 19 September, but after lunch said he had to return to Moscow immediately. He had never climbed any mountain and had never been to high altitude before. Abramov thinks he wanted to go home to watch the Davis Cup tennis matches. He left the day he arrived.

  Oxygen: Semenov started using it at 7900m at 6:00 am because his toes were becoming very cold (the ends of his toes became white and numb); he used it to the top and down to C3. Other summit members used it from C3 to top to C3 (except Abramov, who used it down to C1). All four Sherpas used none.

  Sherpas:
    Mingma Gelu, 5/2/79, Balakharka, Makalu, Everest X5
    Nima Ongdi, 19/2/79, Balakharka, Makalu, Everest X2
    Pasang Sherpa, 20/2/83, Tashigaon, Sedua, Makalu, Everest X3
    Pemba Tenzing, 23/8/76, Thamo, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X1


expid: CHOY07343
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Michael Roberts
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Cho Oyo Expedition
countries: Australia, Iceland, Ireland, UK, USA
bcdate: 2007-09-06
smtdate: 2007-10-02
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2007-10-04
achievment: Mother-daughter ascent
agency: Himalayan Guides
campsites:
  BC(06/09,4900m),ABC(09/09,5600m),C1(14/09,6400m),C1.5(19/09,6800m),C2(20/09,7000m),C3(01/10,7400m),Smt(02/10)

routememo:
  Adventure Consultants Cho Oyu 2007 - 8 Oct 2007

  Made a C1.5 on 19 Sept to halve the climb between C1 and C2 site to make the first day's climb up from ABC easy for the clients. This camp was placed at 6800m, then moved it up to the normal C2 site at 7100m the next day. They came down to ABC to rest on the 21st and then got stuck in ABC in a bad storm.

  The summit party left ABC for the summit push on the 28th. They occupied C1 on the 28th, stayed there an extra day because of more bad weather, then to C2 on the 30th, and on 1 Oct set up C3.

  The final push for the top was from C3 at 1:30 am NST. They were eight members and six Sherpas: Cheryl Bart and Nicole Bart, Danyliw, Elrick, Holt, Moffat, Roberts and Svavarsson, plus Mingma Tenzing, Lhakpa Dorje, Nawang Chhangba, Phu Tashi, Sange Dorje and Chuldim.

  At about 8000m on the shoulder below the summit plateau, Elrick who has only one leg so uses two crutches (no prothesis), at 9:30 am abandoned his summit bid, and the two Sherpas assigned to him, Mingma Tenzing and Lhakpa Dorje turned back with him (they were needed to clip him onto and detach him from the fixed ropes and to short-rope him.) He was a very slow climber -- as seen by the fact that he was at the shoulder an hour and a half after the rest of the party were on the top. The descending summit party met him at the shoulder 9:30 am and turned him around. It was too late for him to reach the top and then return to C2, where there was a supply of more oxygen he could use. He turned out to need more oxygen than expected, so the supply for him at the shoulder was low, and his Sherpas had only one hour's supply left; they needed it descending with a very slow man in the cold weather. He and his Sherpas finally got to C2 at 5:15 pm. He was exhausted. Back in Kathmandu, Elrick said he was "physically exhausted, but the whole experience was fantastic." He was not sure whether he would try again.

  The rest of the summit party, now seven members and four Sherpas, had reached the summit at 8:00 am. They had a good view of Everest, Lhotse and the Western Cwm, and returned to C2 at 4:00 pm. They wee in ABC the next day, the 3rd.

  Oxygen: the summit members used it from C2 to the top to C3; Elrick used it from C2 to his high point to C2. The two Sherpas with Elrick used it from C2 to their high point to C3; they needed it with the extremely slow climber. The other Sherpas used none.

  Two members left early:
    Krauter left on 14 Sept because he broke his tooth on popcorn.
    Haydock left on the 15th. He was not strong enough for the climb.

  Sherpas:
    Chuldim, 26/11/63, Khumjung, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X5
    Lhakpa Dorje, 16/11/61, Sanam, Gudel, Solu, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X3, 
      Makalu & Lhotse X1
    Mingma Tenzing, 1967-68 (2024), Pare, Namche-6, Everest 21/5/07 with Guy Cotter
    Nawang Chhangba, 13/9/69, Khumjung, Cho Oyu X1
    Phu Tashi, 17/11/72 (2/8/2020), Pangboche, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X2
    Sange Dorje, 14/4/78, Khumjung, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1


expid: CHOY07344
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Rory Stark
sponsor: Alaska Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-09-10
smtdate: 2007-10-03
smttime: 1445
termdate: 2007-10-05
campsites: BC(10/09,4900m),ABC(12/09,5700m),C1(16/09,6400m),C2(22/09,7100m),Smt(03/10)
achievment: Complete ski descent with overnight stop in C1
agency: High Country Trekking
routememo:
  Team left C2 at 10 pm (CST) on 2 Oct. It was very cold and windy. They arrived at C3 at 1 am (CST) on 3 Oct. They went into an empty tent to warm up and stayed there until 9 am. The trail was good. They saw Everest from top (on top at 5 pm CST). Stayed on summit for about 1/2 hour. They met Francoise and Martine Marsigny from France. Johnson and Rory Stark descended on skies. They traversed left across yellow band and skied down left of rock band and skied to C2. It took them about 45 minutes. William Stark did not carry his skies to the summit as he was not feeling well and felt weak. He knew that carrying skies would be too strenous, so he descended by foot and arrived at C2 at 7:45 pm. Whole team spent night at C2 on 4 Oct. Taylor and Rory Stark skied down all the way from C2 to ABC. They clipped into the fixed line around icefall, but it was a full ski descent. They skied down the route they ascended. They all met up at C1 and descended to ABC together.

  No skiing was done on acclimatization trips. Johnson and Rory Stark did four carries to C3, but only used C1 on 16 Sept.


expid: CHOY07345
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Peru
leaders: Richard Hidalgo
sponsor: Peru Cho Oyu Expedition 2007
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-09-27
smtdate: 2007-10-09
smttime: 1730
termdate: 2007-10-18
campsites: BC(27/09,4900m),ABC(30/09,5700m),C1(03/10,6400m),C2(04/10,7100m),Smt(09/10)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Hidalgo left C2 at 1 am on 9 Oct. Between C2 and C3 the waterbag which he was carrying inside his down jacket broke and his clothes got wet. He went into an empty tent at C3 and tried to warm up but clothes were frozen. After about 1 hour at 4:30 am he decided to descend to C2, where he changed his clothes. He arrived at C2 at 5:30 am and lay in sleeping bag to warm up. He slept till 8 am got up and left again for summit at 9:30 am. He got to summit very late at 5:30 pm, spent 10 minutes there and descended to C2 in the dark. He arrived at 9:30 pm. Next day to ABC.

  On 14 Oct Hidalgo wanted to speed ascend from ABC to summit but it was too cold and windy so he turned back at 7000m.


expid: CHOY07346
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Ryan Waters
sponsor: Rainier Mountaineering (RMI) Cho Oyu Expedition 2007
bcdate: 2007-09-11
smtdate: 2007-09-20
termdate: 2007-09-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(11/09),ABC(13/09,5600m),C1(16/09,6800m),C2(20/09,7100m),xxx(20/09,7100m)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  Went to C2 on 20th for acclimatization with no intention of going on up to the summit from there at that time. 21st to ABC to rest for summit push. 25th from ABC to C1. Strong wind that night that blew away some team's tents, so down to ABC on 26th.

  Hansen left 27th (missed his family and felt not worth staying longer in uncertain weather). 

  Cann stayed at BC (tired). 

  On 28th Grom, Waters, Britton, Pospischil and Karsang Namgyal went to C1, but wind screaming and so down to ABC same day and climb finished.

  Sherpas: 
    Karsang Namgyal, 24/8/71, Thami, Cho Oyu X7, Everest X7
    Son Dorje, 22/5/63, Phortse, Everest X4


expid: CHOY07347
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Arnold Coster
sponsor: SummitClimb Cho Oyu Expedition 2007
countries: Canada, Greece, Israel, USA
bcdate: 2007-09-08
smtdate: 2007-10-02
smttime: 0415
termdate: 2007-10-05
campsites: BC(08/09,4900m),ABC(12/09,5700m),C1(17/09,6300m),C2(22/09,7000m),C3(01/10,7400m),Smt(02/10)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  Summit Climb Cho Oyu Expedition led by Arnold Coster - 8 Oct 2007

  Summit party of seven members, one Sherpa and five Tibetans left C3 at 10:45 pm (NST) on 1 Oct for the summit. Tock turned around at 7500m (at Yellow Band) at 12:15 pm. She complained to Philip Crampton, leader of another expedition, that she had been abandoned by her Sherpas because they felt she was too slow, Crampton said in Kathmandu. Coster did not mention abandonment, said that one of her "Sherpas" a Tibetan named Kyduo, left her and went to the summit by himself, while her other Tibetan, Chamba, had stomach trouble and also turned around at 7500m. She descended to C2.

  The other members in the summit party reached the top from 5:45 am (Coster and Kiriakakis) to 6:15 am (both Ottos) to 6:45 am (Burgess and Doron) on the 2nd. The other summiters were Jangbu Sherpa and Tibetans Sau Long, Gesang, and Pubu Tsering. The sun rose when the first people arrived at the top, and they all had a "wonderful" view of the Everest group in clear weather and no wind.

  The summiters went down to different camps that day. Burgess went only to C3 with Jangbu. Doron and the two Ottos stopped in C2, Kiriakakis in C1 and Coster to ABC.

  Oxygen: All summit party members used oxygen from C3 to top high point to C2. Tibetan Gesang used it from C3 to top to C3. The Sherpa and other Tibetans did not use any.

  Non-summiting members:

  Alling reached C1 on 11 Sept, but the strenous climb was too much for him, so stayed in ABC during the rest of the climb.

  Liu developed altitude sickness at BC and on 10 Sept went down to Tingri. He returned to ABC on the 17th, climbed to C2 on the 30th, then ran out of steam and down to C1 on 2 Oct.

  Tock was in summit party, but turned back (see above).

  Health problems:

  Burgess was very slow in his descent to only C3 from the summit, and his toes and fingers got frostbitten.

  Liu's altitude sickness discussed above.

  Tibetans:
    Chamba, 20, Nyalam, no 8000ers [??]
    Gesang, 24, Shegar, no 8000ers [??]
    Kyduo, 18, Shegar, no 8000ers
    Pubo Tsering, 18, Tingri, no 8000ers
    Sau Long, 18, Nyalam, no 8000ers


  Arnold Coster - 25 Feb 2008

  The summit times are the same as I mentioned on the web site (Chinese times):

  Gesang + Saulong 6:30 am, just before Coster & Kiriakakis who summited at 7:00 am.
  Kedop 8:00 am, together with the two Otto's.
  Jangbu + Pubo Tsering 9:00 am, together with Doron and Burgess.


expid: CHOY07348
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Eric Larson
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Cho Oyu Expedition 2007
countries: Canada, New Zealand
bcdate: 2007-09-03
smtdate: 2007-09-18
termdate: 2007-10-03
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to high winds
campsites: BC(03/09,4900m),ABC(07/09,5600m),C1(15/09,6100m),C2(18/09,7000m),xxx(18/09,7000m)
accidents: Only one member's ulcer (Passey)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  Alpine Ascents Cho Oyu led Eric Larson - 7 Oct 2007

  C2 was occupied on 18 Sept, then down to ABC on the 20th to rest. On the 28th nine members and seven Sherpas began a push for the summit. The members were Boni, Bull, Coney, Fisher, Kratsch, Larson, Mosey and Setian; the Sherpas were Ang Norbu, Kami Rita, Phura Kancha, Lhakpa Rita, Dawa Chhiri, Pasang Rita and Tshering Dorje.

  On the 28th they went to C1 and on the 29th to C2. During the night of the 29th and the morning of the 30th the winds were so fierce that they shredded five tents at C2. So instead of heading for the top, they descended that day to ABC. Their climb was finished.

  Four members left before most members did. Bacon left on the 23rd because he had not acclimatized and was not sleeping at night. Baier and Girard left on the 27th because they were bored waiting for improved weather. Passey had to leave on the 21st because of his stomach ulcer.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Norbu, 6/12/82 (21/8/2034), Pare
    Dawa Chhiri, aka "Nima", 2/8/67 (18/24/2024), Salyan, Solu, no 8000ers
    Kami Rita, 17/1/70, Thami, Everest X11, Cho Oyu X3
    Lhakpa Rita, Kami Rita's brother, 9/9/66, Thami, Everest X10, Cho Oyu X6
    Pasang Rita, 19/7/78 (4/4/2035), Thamo, Everest 22/5/07
    Phura Kancha, 17/1/77 (18/4/2024), Thami, Everest X2
    Tshering Dorje, 20/7/70, Kharikhola, Everest X9, Cho Oyu X4


expid: CHOY07349
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Michael Hamill
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Cho Oyu 2007
countries: Australia, Bosnia-Herzegovina, Canada, Mexico, New Zealand, UK
bcdate: 2007-08-31
smtdate: 2007-09-22
termdate: 2007-10-04
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to bad weather
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
campsites:
  BC(31/08),ABC(04/09,5700m),C1(10/09,6550m),C2(14/09,7100m),Mbrs.xxx(15,28/09,7100m),Sherpas.xxx(22/09,8000m)

routememo:
  IMG Cho Oyu Expedition 2007 led by Mike Hamill - 5 Oct 2007

  On 15 Sept eight members and four Sherpas went on an acclimatization climb from C1 to C2 (7100m) and back to C1. This was member's highest point. The members were Catt, Fuertes, Hansen, Jones, Lopez, Maller, Morrow and Smith. Sherpas were Danuru, Karma Rita, Nima Karma and Phu Nuru. They descended to ABC on the 16th to rest.

  A party of Sherpas fixed rope to 8000m on the 22nd (from C2 through the yellow band) and having finished that job went down to ABC. This was expedition's highest point.

  On the 28th, the same eight members and four Sherpas went back up to C2 while other members were in C1. But the weather was very bad and all went down to ABC on 29th and climb was finished.

  Hull left on about 20 September (not strong enough).

  Oxygen: Catt and Jones used oxygen sleeping in C2 the night of 28 Sept for their planned push for the summit. No other members, Sherpas or Tibetans used any.

  Sherpas:
    Danuru, aka Dawa Nuru, 26/10/80, Phortse, Everest X9, Cho Oyu X7, Manaslu X1
      Went to 7100m with members on the 15th
    Finjo Dorji, 3/9/86, Pangboche, Everest X1 (21/5/07)
      Went to 8000m in rope fixing party on the 22nd
    Karma Rita, 21/1/76, Phortse, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X2, May 2004
      Went to 7100m with members and to 8000m in rope-fixing party
    Mingma Tenzing, 1/6/86, Phortse, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2
      Went to 8000m with rope-fixing party
    Nima Karma, 30/6/83, Phortse, Everest 18/5/06 & 21/5/07
      Went to 7100m with member and to 8000m in rope-fixing party
    Phu Nuru, aka Phu Nuru, 16/5/80, Phortse, Cho Oyu X7, Everest X2
      Went to 7100m with members


expid: CHOY07303
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Evaristo Modolo
sponsor: Italians to Cho Oyu
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-09-05
smtdate: 2007-09-23
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2007-10-06
campsites: BC(05/09,5700m),ABC(08/09,5700m),C1(10/09,6400m),C2(14/09,7150m),C3(03/10,7500m),Smt(23/09,04/10)
accidents: Modolo's stroke on return to Kathmandu
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Parajuli)
routememo:
  All members left C2 for the summit with Spaniard Javier Campos at 10:45 pm NST 22 Sept, but Modolo and Sebastiani turned back only 100m above C2 because one was not feeling well and they rested in C2 while Andreatta and Tonidandel went to top, which they reached at 12:00 noon and 1:00 pm 23 Sept. They saw Everest and Lhotse clearly, then returned to C2 at 7:00 pm (Andreatta) and 8:30 pm (Tonidandel with Campos); spent night in C2 with other 2 Italians. Down to ABC on 24th and left 1st Oct.

  Modolo and Sebastiani descended to ABC because of bad weather; on 27th they went to Nangpa La and back. 28th up to C1 but strong wind broke tents and on 24th back to ABC. 1st Oct again to C1, 2nd to C2, 3rd made C3 and on 4th went to summit. Left C3 at 2:15 am NST on 4th and summited at 11:45 am, stayed there one hour waiting for fog to lift: it finally did and they saw Everest (they have pictures). Back to C3 on 4:15 pm; 5th to ABC at 8:45 pm in dark; 6th to BC, to Zangmu and on to KTM 7th. 

  At midnight of the 7th, Modolo had a stroke on his left side and was hospitalized; by 9th he was very nearly normal and should leave Kathmandu shortly but will go to hospital in Italy for checkup.


expid: CHOY07351
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Angelo Giovanetti
sponsor: Trentino Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-09-15
smtdate: 2007-10-11
termdate: 2007-10-13
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to bad weathe (windy and very cold)
campsites: BC(15/09,5000m),ABC(20/09,5700m),C1(23/09,6400m),C2(01/10,7100m),C3(10/10,7500m),xxx(11/10,7700m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Giovanetti, Righi, Dawa and Nima left C3 at 3 am (CST) on 11 Oct, and reached at 7700m at 4 am. It was very windy and cold. Then descended to C3 to sleep there. Next day to ABC. 

  Ballardini slept at C2 on 1 Oct, returned to ABC since no motivation to climb further. 

  Mase slept at C2 on 1 Oct. She was very tired and gave up climbing; rest of the time she stayed at ABC. 

  Maurina slept at C2 on 1 Oct, suffered from stomach problem, went down to ABC. No more attempts. 

  Pasinato slept at C2 on 1 Oct, became exhausted and no more climbing. 

  The team returned Kathmandu on 15 Oct and will leave on 19.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Sherpa summited Everest from north side last spring wth Italian group. 
    Nima Sherpa summited Everest from north side last spring with Peter Guggemos.

  Giovanetti is planning to come for Everest north side in spring 2008.


expid: CHOY07352
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Luigi Mondini
sponsor: Mondini on Cho Oyu
approach: Chengdu->Lhasa
bcdate: 2007-09-16
smtdate: 2007-10-05
termdate: 2007-10-11
termnote: Abandoned at 8080m due to exhaustion
campsites: BC(16/09,4900m),ABC(19/09,5700m),C1(27/09,6400m),C2(03/10,7100m),C3(04/10,7400m),xxx(05/10,8080m)
accidents: Slight frostnip on toes
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Parajuli)
routememo:
  On 5 Oct Mondini left C3 at 10:30 Chinese Time. Weather was clear, slight wind. Mondini reached 8080m at 5 pm, but decided to turn back as he was exhausted and had cold feet. He descended to C1 and on 7 Oct, packed up C1 and descended to ABC. He stayed at ABC for 4 more nights.


expid: CHOY07353
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Abele Blanc
sponsor: Naldi Boys Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-09-28
smtdate: 2007-10-05
termdate: 2007-10-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to cold weather and sick Sherpa
campsites: BC(28/09,4900m),ABC(01/10,5700m),C1(04/10,6400m),xxx(05/10,6800m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  On 5 Oct Naldi and Pemba Renzi left C1 at 9 am. Weather was clear but very windy and cold. When they reached the high point at 11:30 am (NST), they decided to turn back due to cold and wind. They descended to ABC and arrived at 4:30 pm. 

  On 7 Oct Naldi and Pemba Rinzi ascended again to C1 but Naldi did not feel well. They turned back at 6300m. Blanc had ascended to C1 on 6 Oct and when Naldi and Pemba Rinzi turned back he also descended to ABC. 

  On 10 Oct Naldi and Abele reached C1 together. But Pemba Rinzi was feeling very sick so he turned back at 5800m. He took with him all the climbing gear. Abele and Naldi stayed at C1 for two nights but weather deteriorated. Naldi did not think he could summit without his Sherpa.


expid: CHOY07354
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: India
leaders: Shekhar Babu Bachinepally
sponsor: Indian Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-09-11
smtdate: 2007-10-01
termdate: 2007-10-03
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to heavy snow, very cold, and exhausted
campsites: BC(11/09,4900m),ABC(14/09,5800m),C1(17/09,6400m),C2(30/09,7100m),xxx(01/10,7900m)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Bachinepally and Ngima Nuru left C2 around 9:30 pm (NST), reached at 7900m between 2:30-3 am of 1 Oct. Lots of snow, the route has to be open again. They were exhausted and decided to turn around. Bachinepally and Ngima Nuru descended to ABC at about 3 pm. 

  Bachinepally returned Kathmandu on 18 Oct and planning to leave on 23 or 24 October. Probably he will come for Lhotse in 2008 Spring.

  Sherpa:
    Ngima Nuru Sherpa, 6-11-81, Namche-4, Everest X6, Cho Oyu in 2003/28/5


expid: CHOY07355
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Ilario Mostachetti
sponsor: Italian on Cho Oyu
approach: Lhasa->Gyantse->Xigatse->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-09-16
smtdate: 2007-10-02
termdate: 2007-10-11
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(16/09,4800m),ABc(20/09,5700m),C1(22/09,6400m),C2(02/10,7100m),xxx(02/10,7100m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Parajuli)
routememo:
  Mostachetti reached C2 on 2 Oct thinking to go to C3 next day, but had to spend two days at C3 itself due to bad weather and down to ABC on 4 Oct. 

  Mostachetti arrived Kathmandu on 12 Oct and will leave on 15 Oct.


expid: CHOY07350
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Sergio Galvagni
sponsor: Italy on Cho Oyu
approach: Lhasa->Gyantse->Xigatse->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-09-16
smtdate: 2007-10-08
termdate: 2007-10-11
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(16/09,4800m),ABC(20/09,5700m),C1(27/09,6400m),C2(02/10,7100m),C3(08/10,7600m),xxx(08/10,7600m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Parajuli)
routememo:
  Cattani, Galvagni and Martini left C2 on 8 Oct at 1 am (CST), reached C3 at 5 am, stayed there about ten minutes and had tea. It was very cold and windy. The three descended to C2 stayed about 3 hours then to ABC at about 6 pm. The team arrived Kathmandu on 12 Oct and will leave on 15 Oct.


expid: CHOY07356
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Jacob Schmitz
sponsor: Field Touring Alpine Cho Oyu Expedition 2007
countries: Australia, Canada, Czech Republic, Malaysia, Norway
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-09-23
smtdate: 2007-10-04
termdate: 2007-10-09
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(23/09,4900m),ABC(25/09,5800m),C1(30/09,6400m),C2(01/10,7200m),xxx(04/10,7400m)
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
routememo:
  Summit push: Laughlin, Skrede and Parsu Ram Rai left C2 at 9 pm on 4 Oct. They reached at about 7400m between 11 to 11:30 pm then turned around to C2 at around midnight due to cold feet. Rested for couple of hours then descended to ABC. The team planned for another attempt on 7 Oct, but called it off due to bad weather, strong wind. 

  Other members:

  Andrews went up to C2 on 1 Oct, but got sick coughing due to coldness and was weak, back to ABC. No further climbing. 

  Bartova slept at C1 on 9 Sept and descended to ABC, not strong enough to continue climbing. 

  Kuppusamy same as Andrew's case. 

  Schmitz went up C2 on 30 Sept, slept there. He suffered from sore throat and remained at ABC rest of the time. 

  Szymiec went up to C2, slept there for two nights. Next day morning, while going to C3 encountered the rescue team of Chinese climber who got his right leg fractured. Szymiec joined the rescue team bringing down the Chinese (Hong Kong) to C1. He did not try to go to the summit. 

  The team returned Kathmandu on 10 Oct and will leave on different dates.

  Sherpas:
    Parsu Ram Rai
    Mi Tenzing (Mitijen) Sherpa


expid: CHOY07357
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Xavier Arias
sponsor: Xavi Cho Oyu Expedition 2007
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-09-07
smtdate: 2007-10-02
smttime: 2315
termdate: 2007-10-06
campsites: BC(07/09,4900m),ABC(09/09,5700m),C1(11/09,6400m),C2(14/09,7000m),Smt(02/10)
achievment: 23-hour ascent
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Parajuli)
routememo:
  Arias left ABC on 2 Oct at 0:15 am NST, reached C2 at 4:30 am, changed clothes and stayed about two hours. Reached C2 at 10 am, had rest for 3 hours; reached C3 at 2:45 pm, had chat with Basque member for about 30 minutes. Arias did not put his own camp at C3. Reached summit at 11:15 pm NST 2 Oct. Stayed on summit about 45 minutes, descended to C3 at 2:45 am and slept in Italian expedition's tent. Next day to ABC where he reached at about 4:45 pm. Weather on summit was clear, no wind but very cold. Arias saw clear view of Everest-Lhotse. Before Arias there were about six people with oxygen on summit. They were Korean or Chinese (Oriental). Others summited on that day were French ski team (2 or 3 members), another 2 French, two Croatian girls (one with oxygen, one without) and a few others. 

  Arias returned Kathmandu on 8 Oct and probably will leave on 12th.


expid: CHOY07358
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Gabriel Gutierrez
sponsor: Expedicio Cho Oyu Baix Ebre/Baix Maestrat 2007
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-09-14
smtdate: 2007-10-04
smttime: 1415
termdate: 2007-10-07
campsites: BC(14/09,4900m),ABC(16/09,5700m),C1(20/09,6400m),C2(23/09,7100m),C3(03/10,7500m),Smt(04/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Parajuli)
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 15 Sept at 5300m.

  Corominas, Rafols and Via Trotonda left C3 at 9:30 am CST of 4 Oct. Rafols reached summit Rafols at 4:30 pm (2:15 NST), Corominas and Via Trotonda at 5:30 pm (3:15 NST). Rafols waited for Corominas and Via Trotonda at the summit. After about 30 minutes all descended to C3 at around 7 pm. Next day descended to ABC. Ahead of Rafols there were two Italians. While on ascent the Spanish team crossed five climbers with oxygen plus some Sherpas at about half-way between C3 and summit. Corominas also saw a woman descending on the west side of rock band. The weather on the summit was very good but cold. Below the summit plateau there was cloud; saw top of Sishapangma, Everest, Lhotse. 

  Other members of the team, Borras and Nuez, went up to C2 on 3 Oct. Both were exhausted and gave up climbing. 

  Cuyas went up to around 6600m on 2 Oct; he was physically fit, but lacked climbing skills and did not try further climbing. 

  Gutierrez slept at C1 on 22 Sept. He suffered from bronchitis, and rest of time he stayed at ABC. 

  Oliver slept at C1 on 23 Sept. He was exhausted and had acclimatization problem. Did not try further climbing, but stayed at ABC. 

  Puig slept at C2 on 23 Sept. He suffered from tooth infection and was on antibiotics that affected his acclimatization process and he remained at ABC. 

  Torres remained at ABC all the time due to acclimatization problem. 

  The team returned to Kathamandu on 9 Oct and will leave on 13 Oct.

  Note: This was a joint expedition of two Spanish groups:

    Group 1: Gutierrez, Borras, Carominas, Nuez, Oliver, Torres
             (see www.chooyu2007.com)

    Group 2: Cuyas, Puig, Rafols, Via Trotonda
             (see www.himalaia2007.net)
   


expid: CHOY07359
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Francisco Monedero
sponsor: Segovia Cho Expedition 2007
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-09-17
smtdate: 2007-10-04
termdate: 2007-10-08
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to bad weather and getting late in the day
campsites: BC(17/09,4700m),ABC(19/09,5700m),C1(22/09,6400m),C2(02/10,7170m),C3(03/10,7500m),xxx(04/10,8100m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Parajuli)
routememo:
  On 4 Oct Monedero left C3 at 10 CST, reached 8100m at 3 pm. It was too late to continue climbing and also it was very cold, so turned around to C2 at about 6 pm. Next day to ABC. Weather was very cold otherwise good weather. Monedero said that 3 Spanish of Gutierrez team summited on that day. 

  Monedero returned to Kathmandu on 9 Oct and will leave on 11 Oct.


expid: CHOY07360
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Anselme Baud
sponsor: French Ski Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Lhasa->Gyantse->Xigatse->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-09-09
smtdate: 2007-10-03
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2007-10-05
campsites: BC(09/09,4800m),ABC(11/09,5700m),C1(15/09,6400m),C2(17/09,7100m),Smt(03/10)
agency: Adventure 6000
routememo:
  Both Bauds (father and son) Didault, Coutty and Pemba Gyalzen Sherpa left C2 at 10 pm CST on 2 Oct. The team reached C3 at about midnight, rested there about one hour. It was windy and cold. The team continued climbing on 3 Oct. They arrived at 7600m at 2 am. Both Bauds had stomach problem and felt very cold. Both skied down to C2. Didault reached summit at 11:30 am, stayed there about 30 minutes and skied down to C1; Pemba reached summit at 12 noon. Coutty turned around to C2 from 7900m due to exhaustion and cold. Next day two Bauds with loads skied down to ABC and the rest walked down to ABC. Anselme Baud said that on same day two Americans also skied down from summit. Other climbers summited were one Spanish and one or two Croatian women.

  The team returned Kathmandu on 8 Oct and will leave on 12 Oct.

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Gyalze Sherpa, Pangkoma, 29/11/73 (14/8/2030) Jubing-8, Solu, Ever X6


expid: GHAN07301
peakid: GHAN
year: 2007
route1: SW Face-W Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Yan Andre
sponsor: French Ghhanyala Hies Ski Expedition
countries: USA
approach: Taplejung->Ghunsa->Lhonak
bcdate: 2007-10-13
smtdate: 2007-10-24
termdate: 2007-10-26
termnote: Adandoned at 6150m due to icy conditions
othersmts: Climbed 6170m peak north of Tsisima (21 Oct)
campsites: BC(13/10,4978m),C1(17/10,5500m),xxx(24/10,6150m)
accidents: Andre's left big toe got frostbitten during the ascent
achievment: 1st actual attempt of Ghhanyala Hies
agency: Pike Peak Trekking
routememo:
  French Ghhanyala Hies Ski Expedition 2007, led by Yan Andre - 5 Nov 2007

  This team believe they were the second expedition intending to climb Ghhanyala Hies. The first, they said, was a team of two American brothers, one named Rob DesLauriers, about ten years ago that did not reach the mountain [two Americans were Rob DesLauriers and Pete Patterson].

  This group of skiers took a bus from Kathmandu via Chitwan, east across the Terai, north via Ilam to Taplejung village. They then trekked down to the Tamur River, followed the river north via Ghunsa to Lhonak, where they arrived on 10 October and onto the Lhonak Glacier. Their BC was established on 13 October on the glacier at 4978m.

  They went northeast on the Chijima Glacier to 5500m, where they made C1 on the 17th. From this camp they made a reconnaissance on the glacier leading west to a peak 6170m high called Chijima or Tsisima [not the 6196m peak also known as Tsisima], and on the 21st four of the members summited it via its NW Face; De Potestad turned back at 5900m; he was not a climber, more of a trekker, and he went back to C1. Andre, Dan, Husted and Wallace went to the top and skied from the top down the 45-50 degrees summit slope on good powdered snow in perfect weather almost all the way to C1.

  On the 23rd at 4:00 am, all members went to Ghhanyala Hies (6779m). Mingmar Tamang accompanied them, and De Potestad and Mingmar stopped at 5850m to wait for the others and to take pictures. The other members skied ("skinned") westwards on the flat glacier at its foot for three hours to a 50-55 degree couloir, which was very icy. They stopped skiing at 5850m and climbed to 6150m to the top of the couloir. The face led to the West Ridge, but they did not go to the ridge. They traversed to the left for access to the SW Face of the ridge. But now conditions were too icy to ski down, and it was very difficult to climb up and down with their heavy loads including their skis. At 10:30 am they turned down and skied to C1 in two and half hours and spent that night in C1.

  They abandoned their climb because of the icy conditions and went back to BC on the 25th. They left BC the next day to return to Kathmandu.

  Andre's left big toe got frostbitten during the ascent on Ghhanyala Hies, but will heal.

  Hired:
    Mingmar Tamang, 23/9/64 (8/6/2021), Pirangding, Kerung-1, Solu, Cho Oyu 5/10/02


expid: CHOY05347
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW Side
nation: China
leaders: Jin Fei-Biao, Jin Fei-Bao
sponsor: 2005 Chinese Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 2005-09-08
smtdate: 2005-09-25
smttime: 0800
campsites: BC(08/09,4995m),ABC(11/09,5700m),C1(16/09,6350m),C2(23/09,7150m),C3(24/09,7550m),Smt(25/09)
agency: None
routememo:
  Daily itinerary (paraphrased from Chinese web site):

  08 Sep - Arrived at BC (4995m)
  10 Sep - Walked to ABC
  13 Sep - Climbed to C1 site, back to ABC
  16 Sep - C1 established
  17 Sep - Climbed from C1 to C2 site, back to ABC
  23 Sep - Climbed from C1 to C2
  24 Sep - Climbed from C2 to C3
  25 Sep - Summit day 

  On summit day, departed at 2:30 am (CST). Sunrise at 6:00 am at 7700m. Summit at 10:15 am (8:00 am NST) by Jin Fei Bao, Jin Fei-Biao, Li Xiang-Ping and Tibetan assistants.


expid: AMAD07301
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Curtis Olson
sponsor: American to Ama Dablam (Todd permit)
bcdate: 2007-11-07
smtdate: 2007-11-13
termdate: 2007-11-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m because had no wish to continue the climb
campsites: BC(07/11,4500m),C1(08/11,5800m,),C2(12/11,6000m),xxx(13/11,6100m)
agency: Ang Rita Treks
routememo:
  BC at Todd's BC site.

  Olson on Ama Dablam - 19 Nov 2007

  First Olson trekked around Khumbu with other people, then to Ama Dablam. He was on Henry Todd's permit, and he expected food supplies and a tent to be available for him on the mountain, but when he arrived at BC on 7 November, he found that he would be sharing tents with other climbers on Todd's permit. The Serbian leader, Dragan Jacimovic, helped with tent space for him. As for food, Tim Mosedale, leader of one of these teams, supplied him with food from his own pocket.

  Olson went to C1 on 8 November and slept in a Todd tent, but there was no food there and he went down to BC on the 9th. On the 11th he returned to C1, and moved up to a Todd tent at C2 on the 12th.

  On the 13th he went up from C2 but turned around halfway to C3 (about 6100m). "I had reached the point where I was very happy with the journey on the mountain, and now was the right time to go home." So he went down to BC, spent the 14th relaxing, chatting by walkie-talkie with Jacimovic's team, who were above him on the mountain, and left BC on the 15th.


expid: AMAD07302
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Francois Dagenais-Cote
sponsor: Independent Canadian on Ama Dablam
approach: Gokyo->Cho La
bcdate: 2007-10-09
smtdate: 2007-10-19
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2007-10-21
campsites: BC(09/10,4700m),C1(12/10,5600m),C2(17/10,6000m),Smt(19/10)
agency: Nomad Expeditions
routememo:
  On 19 Oct team left C2 at 2:40 am. Weather was clear and calm. They got to C3 at 6 am, just before they arrived. At C3 they saw where the avalanche [the night before] came from: the top right corner of hanging glacier - it did not hit C3. They rested at C3 till 7:36 am and carried on to the summit. Dagenais-Cote was happy that Russians had fixed the part between C3 and summit as it was too steep. They descended to C2, dismantled camp and carried on to BC where they arrived at 9:40 pm. They left BC 2 days later.

  Sherpa:
    Dendi Sherpa, 22/1/83, Deku, Taksindu-5, Solu, Cho Oyu 15/5/07


expid: AMAD07303
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Stuart Remensnyder
sponsor: Field Touring Alpine Ama Dablam Expedition 2007
countries: Australia, S Africa
bcdate: 2007-10-22
smtdate: 2007-11-04
smttime: 1208
termdate: 2007-11-08
campsites: BC(22/10,4550m),ABC(26/10,5500m),C1(28/10,5800m),C2(01/11,5950m),C3(02/11,6300m),Smt(04-05/11)
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
routememo:
  Field Touring Ama Dablam Expedition 2007 - 14 Nov 2007

  First summit party: Chow, Kane, McElroy, Remensnyder, Rowlands and Parsu Ram Rai left C3 from 9:00 to 9:30 am on 4 November and all reached the top between 12:08 and 1:17 pm. McElroy was the first to the summit and stayed for two hours; he and Chow, who summited at 12:30, descended to C2, where they arrived at 3:00 pm. The other members returned to C3 at 4:00 pm. Parsu Ram Rai climbed from C2 to top to C3.

  Second summit party: Allen, Loughlin, Reibeling, Turner and Lhakpa Sherpa left C3 on 5 November between 9:40 and 10:20 am, got to the summit between 12:20 and 12:45 pm, and all descended to C2, arriving there at 3:30 pm.

  Because of the unstable conditions on the Gray Tower, climbers moved up the ropes from C2 to 6100m just one person at a time.

  Three members left the team early:

  Bampton, who had a history of knee problems, got a sore knee at ABC. He stayed there the nights of 24 and 25 October, then descended to BC on the 26th. He left expedition on 1 November.

  Norman developed very bad chest infection (perhaps pneumonia) at ABC on 27 October and left BC on 3 November on horseback.

  Rollins got a sinus infection while in C1 on 27 October. He went down to ABC and then to BC but did not recover, so also left on the 3rd of November.

  There were no accidents or case of frostbite.

  Nepalese summiters:
    Parsu Ram Rai, 13/7/9/69 (29/3/2026, Rakha, Khotang, no 8000ers
    Lhakpa Sherpa, 25/7/1968 (10/4/2025), Lokhim vdc, Solu, no 8000ers
      He had already summited Ama Dablam with a Japanese team in October 2007


expid: AMAD07304
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Marcel Kraaz
sponsor: Amical Alpin Ama Dablam Expedition 2007
countries: Austria, Switzerland
bcdate: 2007-10-07
smtdate: 2007-10-20
smttime: 0815
termdate: 2007-10-23
campsites: BC(07/10,4600m),ABC(09/10,5400m),C1(11/10,5800m),C2(19/10,6000m),Smt(20/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Rai)
routememo:
  Kraaz left C1 at 3 am on 20 Oct. He reached C2 at 4:05 am, where Brand, Fierz, Paukner, Spiss and Wensauer were waiting (they had spent the night at C2). They continued to the summit. At C3 they overtook Dan Mazur's team. Kraaz reached summit at 8:15 am, Fierz at 8:45 am, Paukner at 9:38 am, Wensauer at 11 am, Spiss at 11 am and Brand at 11:30 am. Fierz descended to BC and arrived at 4:30 pm; Brand, Paukner, Spiss and Wensauer descended to C2, where they arrived between 1:30 pm and 4:30 pm; Kraaz descended to BC as there was not enough space at C2 and he arrived there at 7 pm.

  Ackermann got to C1 on 11 Oct; he was too weak mentally and physically; he stayed two nights and descended to BC.

  Kasting got to C2 on 10 Oct, did not stay the night, but abandoned climb due to physical weakness.

  Lange reached C2 on 12 Oct, did not stay the night, but abandoned climb due to physical and mental weakness.

  Mitterer reached C1 on 11 Oct, did not stay the night, felt a bit sick and descended to BC.

  Reuter got to C2 on 12 Oct, did not stay the night since climb was too tough for her.

  Schoederlein go to C1 on 11 Oct, stayed the night, but the climb was too tough for him.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Nima Dorje, 17/3/81 (4/12/2037), Tashigaon, Makalu-5, Everest X2
    Pemba Nuru, 3/2/73 (21/10/2024), Pare near Thami, Everest X3


expid: AMAD07305
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kyun Woo-Byung
sponsor: Seoul High School Mount Villa Club 2007 Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Dingboche->Chhukung->Pangboche
bcdate: 2007-11-08
smtdate: 2007-11-16
smttime: 1800
termdate: 2007-11-20
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (5 Nov)
campsites: BC(08/11,4600m),C1(12/11,5800m),C2(14/11,6100m),Smt(16,18/11)
agency: Everest Expeditions
routememo:
  Kyun and Chonga Tshiring left C2 at 3 am on 16 Nov, reached summit at 6 pm, stayed on summit abut 30 minutes. Descended to C2 at 1 am on 17 Nov. Rested for six hours then to BC at 4 pm. Weather was very good but little windy. 5 or 6 other climbers (maybe British) summited on that day. 

  Choi, You and Kanchha Sherpa left C2 at 9:30 pm of 17 Nov. Choi reached summit at 5:20 am and You and Kanchha at 5:40 am on 18 Nov. All three (2 members and 1 Sherpa) left summit at 6:10 am, reached C2 at about 9:30 am then to BC at 7 pm. Weather was clear but very cold and very windy. 

  Jung went up to C2 on 14 Nov, but he suffered from cough and headache and descended to BC with Kyun on 17 Nov. Kim slept at C1 on 14 Nov, suffered from headache and next day descended to BC.

  The team returned Kathmandu on 23 Nov and will be leaving on 29 Nov. The team visited Pokhara from 24-28 Nov. The team members did not see anybody trying to use oxygen on the mountain.

  Sherpas:
    Kanchha Sherpa, 23/1/81, Beni-5
    Chonga Tshiring Sherpa, 19/11/81, Lagarche-9, Sindhupalchowk
      1st time on expedition peak

  Oxygen:

  Chonga said Jung suffered from headache at C2. He stayed at C2 two nights and used oxygen for sleeping.


expid: AMAD07306
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Chris Szymiec
sponsor: Field Touring Alpine Ama Dablam Expedition 2007
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Dingboche->Chhukung->Island Peak
bcdate: 2007-11-17
smtdate: 2007-11-23
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2007-11-28
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (15 Nov)
campsites: BC(17/11,4500m),C1(20/11,5900m),C2(22/11,6200m),Smt(23/11)
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
routememo:
  Murry, Szymiec and Tshering Rai left C2 at 2:30 am, summited at 11 am and stayed at summit for an  hour. Weather was clear, no wind, very good weather, descended to C2 at 4 pm. Next day to BC. No other climbers on the mountain on that day. 

  Scott suffered from stomach problem at C1 on 20 Nov and gave up climbing. 

  Kress and Murray returned Kathmandu on 28 and Szymiec on 29 Nov. Kress will leave on 1, Murray on 2nd and Szymiec on 6 Dec.


expid: AMAD07307
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Tim Rippel
sponsor: Peak Freaks Ama Dablam Expedition 2007
countries: Japan, UK, USA
bcdate: 2007-10-07
smtdate: 2007-10-18
termdate: 2007-10-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6150m due to avalanching
campsites: BC(07/10,4575m),ABC(10/10,5250m),C1(13/10,5800m),C3(18/10,6150m),xxx(18/10,6150m)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  18 Oct party of six in C3 planned to go to top on 19th. During night there were 3 avalanches  (last at 4:00 am on 19th) that just missed this team and other team's camps, which had been pitched to right of what turned out to be an avalanche path. Party down to C1 tired because of little sleep and frightened. Avalanches were pieces of the dablam; could hear avalanching - most at nights but not known where they came from. All in BC on 20th (had called off second summit party's bid). 

  Bachman left team at Pangboche on 7 Oct before reaching BC; not suited to camp life.

  Higgins left on 15 Oct because not fit.

  Janzan, Korn and Rippel were in C1 poised to make 2nd summit bid that was cancelled.

  Sherpas: 
    Ang Gyalzen, 19/4/84 (7/1/2041), Khotang
    Ngima Tendi, 25/5/74 (12/2/2031), Khotang


expid: AMAD07308
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Justin Merle
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Bosnia-Herzegovina, Netherlands
bcdate: 2007-10-12
smtdate: 2007-10-21
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2007-10-31
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East (22nd Oct by all members except Logic)
campsites: BC(25/10,4602m),C1(27/10,5821m),C2(28/10,6035m),Smt(21,29/10)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  First went to acclimatize on trek to Everest BC, Kalapattar and climbed Lobuche East.

  IMG Ama Dablam Expedition led by Justin Merle - 5 Nov 2007

  First summiters were Logic and the team's two Sherpas, Ang Pasang and Kami Tshering. They went to Cho Oyu in early autumn, returned to Kathmandu, flew to Lukla together and established BC on 12 October. Already well acclimatized, Logic and the Sherpas did not need to participate in the acclimatization program of the rest of the members. They occupied C1 on the 14th and C2 on the 16th. They made a summit bid from C2 on the 17th, but when they reached 6500m, it was too late to continue their ascent; they had moved up slowly because they were fixing ropes for the rest of the expedition. Bad weather was now setting in, so they descended all the way to BC. On the 20th the three men climbed from BC to C2, summited on the 21st and went down to BC the same day. Logic went from BC to Lukla on the 22nd while the Sherpas stayed for the arrival of the other member on the 29th.

  Main summit party did not need a C3 since they had trekked to Everest BC and up Kalapattar, then summited Lobuche East before arriving at Ama Dablam BC. They were Cragin, Kurdt, Merle, Van den Bos and Kami Tshering. They left C2 at 3:55 am and were on the top at 10:40 am (Cragin, Merle and Kami Tshering) and at 11:40 am. (Kurdt and Van den Bos). The first summiters waited at the top for an hour in perfect weather: "crystal clear and light breeze," said Merle; all went down to C2 together. This was Kami Tshering's second ascent in eight days.

  Non-summiting member:

  Peck reached C2 with summit party but had bad cough and instead of going for summit descended to BC. Pasang Nuru descended with him.

  Sherpas:
    Kami Tshering, 1962, Pangboche, Everest X8, Cho Oyu X5
    Ang Pasang, 11/2/66, Pangboche, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X5


expid: AMAD07309
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Soren Ledet
sponsor: World Expeditions Ama Dablam 2007
countries: Argentina, Denmark
approach: Toktok->Namche->Phortse->Gokyo->Cho La->Lobuche
bcdate: 2007-10-17
smtdate: 2007-10-23
smttime: 1245
termdate: 2007-10-27
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East (by all on 16 Oct except Bennett)
campsites: BC(17/10,4700m),C1(20/10,5700m),C2(21/10,6000m),C3(22/10,6275m),Smt(23/10)
accidents: Minor frostbite fingers and toes of Thomas and right big toe of Thompson
agency: Sea to Summit Trekking
routememo:
  Armesto, Currie, Ledet, Savage, Skirka, Thomas, Thompson, Vickers, Sandesh Tamang, Kami Sherpa, Lhakpa Tamang and Dharma Bahadur Rai (also known as Dhana Rai) left C3 at 8:15 am. Vickers reached summit at 12:45; by 2 pm everybody reached summit (last one was Ledet). All descended to C3 at about 6:45 pm. Next day to BC. It was the only team which summited on that day. 

  Bennett left team from Gokyo on 12 Oct. Arrived Kathmandu on 16 and left on 20 Oct. He did not feel well although physically he was Ok. 

  The team returned Kathmandu on 30 Oct. Members left on 2 Nov and leader will leave on 3 Nov.

  Hired summiters:
    Sandesh Tamang, (31-3-2034), Jaubari-5, Dharapani, Gorkha
    Dharma Bahadur Rai (also called Dhana Rai), 3-6-2025, Neche Batase-6,
      summited Ama Dablam in 2004 & 2005
    Kami Sherpa, (2004 BC), Beni-8 [Junbesi], summited Ama Dablam once
    Lhakpa Tamang, (1976-77), Salleri-9, summited Ama Dablam once


expid: AMAD07310
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Luis Benitez
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Ama Dablam Expedition 2007
countries: Australia, Canada, Finland, New Zealand, UK
bcdate: 2007-10-22
smtdate: 2007-11-02
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2007-11-07
campsites: BC(22/10,4600m),ABC(28/10,4900m),C1(29/10,5200m),C2(31/10,5900m),C3(01/11,6300m),Smt(02,04/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Adventure Consultants Ama Dablam led by Luis Benitez - 12 Nov 2007

  The team spent only one night in ABC. The site had no water, so supplies had to come up by yaks.

  Benitez's policy is to move his members up to each successively higher camps without descending until it is time for their summit push. Then down to rest in BC and up again. Since he had two deputy leaders, he divided the membership into two teams in C1 to make their bids for the summit one day apart, as follows:

  Team 1: Chaplin, Johanson, Kilpatrick, Wexler and Lhakpa Dorje

  Team 2: Benitez, Bradley, Comes, Kennedy, Linnola, Robertson, Tootill, Varcas, Dawa Jangbu, Pasang Bhote and Phurba Ridar Bhote (Bradley and Varcas did not join the summit bid on the 4th of November: see below re non-summiting members)

             Team 1                            Team 2

  31 Oct.  C1 to C2                           stayed in C1
   1 Nov   C2 to C3                           C1 to C2
   2 Nov   C3 to summit to C2                 C2 to C3
   3 Nov   C2 to C1                           stayed in C3 because of strong wind
   4 Nov   C1 to BC                           C3 to summit to C3
   5 Nov   in BC                              C3 to C1
   6 Nov   in BC                              C1 to BC

  Team 1 left C3 for the summit on 2 November at 9:00 am, were on the summit at different times between 12:30 and 2:30 pm and down to C2 at 4:30 pm.

  Team 2, a slower group, left C3 for the summit on 4 November at 9:00 am, were on the summit at 2:30 pm and were in C3 at 6:00 pm.

  Some expeditions this season skipped C3 because of the avalanche danger, but Benitez made C3 at the traditional altitude of 6300m but as far as possible to the right, about 500 feet, from the old site because the fatal avalanche of November 2006 had ripped apart the left side of the camp area: half of the C3 shelf was gone now, and there still was some ice coming down from the bottom of the Dablam. "If we had gone from C2 to the summit, 50% of Team 1 and all of Team 2 would never have made it." Benitez said; they were not strong enough to go all that distance up and back in one day.

  Last spring, some teams Sherpas refused to camp at the old site because of the danger and the ghosts of the Pangboche men killed the previous autumn. This autumn two senior Adventure Consultants Sherpas refused to go to Ama Dablam either because of their wives insistence or of their own volition. Benitez had to recruit two men from the Makalu area who had been with the Adventure Consultants Cho Oyu expedition last spring.

  Benitez himself was not happy about the continuing danger of falling debris. He felt "the hazard level is significantly higher" even if C3 is skipped. "Clients need to be made aware of the increased hazard because of the ice seracs threatening the route." There was a release of ice while his members were in C3; they were far enough to the right of th seracs' path not to get hit, but they "felt the blast" of wind from the falling ice. "The whole Ama Dablam is calving, and eventually all of it will come off".

  Perhaps the SW Ridge route should not be used in the near future. But if another route is substituted for it, a higher degree of technical skill would be required of the clients.

  Non-summiting members:

  Bradley had been assigned to Team 2, but he only slept in C1 on 30 Oct as found climb too difficult, went down to BC 1 November and helicoptered to Kathmandu same day.

  Morrison got only to ABC, had to go home because of illness in his family, and left expedition on 29 October.

  Varcas had been in Team 2, but turned back from C2 on 2 November because the climb was too difficult and went down to BC same day.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Dawa Jangbu, 22/4/73, Pangboche, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X1
    Lhakpa Dorje, 16/11/61, Sanam, Gudel, Solu, Everest X3, Makalu X3, Cho Oyu X3,
      Lhotse X1
    Pasang Bhote, 19/5/86, Chepuwa-4, Makalu, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1 [???]
    Phurba Ridar Bhote (father of Pasang), 1958-9 (2015), Chepuwa-4, Makalu,
      Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2, K2 X1


expid: AMAD07311
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: NE Ridge/Face-N Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Cho You-Dong
sponsor: 2007 Corean Alpine Club (CAC) Ama Dablam East Face Expedition
approach: Dingboche->Bibra & Ama Dablam Glacier
bcdate: 2007-10-26
smtdate: 2007-11-16
smttime: 6400
termdate: 2007-11-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to steep rock
campsites: BC(26/10,5000m),ABC(29/10,5200m),C1(04/11,5700m),C2(08/11,6100m),xxx(16/11,6400m)
agency: Universal Trekking Network
routememo:
  BC  at Ama Dablam Glacier
  ABC at bottom of NE Ridge's face
  C1  on NE Ridge's face
  C2  on NE Ridge
  High point at NE Face-NE Ridge junction.

  2007 CAC Ama Dablam East Face Expedition led by Cho You-Dong - 22 Nov 2007

  The expedition climbed mostly on the NE Ridge, although they did move a short distance to the left over onto the NE Face high on the mountain before returning to the ridge at their high point of 6400m.

  Their BC was pitched on the Ama Dablam Glacier below the ridge near the point where the ridge, which at its lowest (northern) end had been running due north, now reached an elbow and ran northeast. The camp was placed at 5000m on 26 October.

  On 29 October, ABC was placed at 5200m at the bottom of the ridge's east face, and C1 on this face (of the NE Ridge) on 4 November. On 8 November C2 was pitched on the ridge at 6100m.

  On 9 November, the first attempt was made to go for the summit from C2. Cho Dong-Yol and Deputy Leader Park got only to 6200m on the NE Face, then turned back because they found it to be a very steep rock face.

  The second and last summit attempt was launched on 16 November by three members this time, Cha, Jang and Kim, from C2. They moved up the face to join the leftward slanting NE Ridge at 6400m, and here they stopped.

  They had been struggling with the very steep (80 degrees) loose rock. They had come to the mountain expection snow and ice; there was too much exposed rock for them. The trio retreated to C2 and the climb was finished.

  Loose rock often came falling down the mountain in huge chunks as big as an office desk (there was also some falling ice and snow). One very big rock very nearly hit Cha -- it did hit his rope and almost severed it. None of the helmet-wearing members was hurt during the climb.

  The team fixed 800m of rope from C1 to C2 and another 200m from C2 to their 6400m high point.

  Two members had to leave the expedition to go back to work in Korea. Shin and Yang left on 10 November.


expid: AMAD07312
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: John Freeman
sponsor: Berg Adventures Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: USA
approach: Via Island Peak
bcdate: 2007-11-16
smtdate: 2007-11-21
termdate: 2007-11-23
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to lack of supplies to stock high camp after descent from summit bid
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(16/11,4600m),C1(18/11,5700m),C2(20/11,6100m),xxx(21/11,6200m)
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  First went to Island Peak; all three members and both Sherpas summited on 11 Nov.

  On Ama Dablam their plan was to take food and fuel with them to C3, where they could use one of Henry Todd's tents and rehydrate on their descent from summit; a Sherpa would go with them and carry sleeping bags and mats; but the Sherpa got a toothache and went down on 21 Nov instead of going up and they had no room in their packs for bags and pads as well as rope, food and fuel, so no question of their staying overnight at C3. So no choice but to descend to C2 from summit push. At couloir found rope damaged by rockfall and had to replace 70m of fixed rope, which delayed them. Now had not enough time to get to top and back to C2 before temperature dropped significantly. At 12:30 pm they had reached 6200m and decided they must turnaround and returned to C2 at 6:30 pm. Went to BC on 22nd and decided while doing descent this day did not want to make this effort to try for top again.


expid: AMAD07313
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Choi Heung-Hwan
sponsor: Joyful Mt. Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Deboche
bcdate: 2007-11-07
smtdate: 2007-11-17
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2007-11-19
campsites: BC(07/11,4600m),C1(12/11,5700m),C2(16/11,5900m),Smt(17/11)
agency: Korean Treks & Expeditions
routememo:
  Choi, Jang, Seo, Dawa Wongchuk and Pema Tshering left C2 at 10 pm on 16 Nov and reached summit at 8:30 am of 17 Nov. They stayed on summit for two hours, then descended to C2 at 1 pm. Next day to BC. There was no wind when they started from C2. During day time it was windy, cold but clear sky. 

  Ms. Choi got headache and stayed all the time at BC. 

  Ms. Kim climbed up to C1 on 12 Nov, slept there. She did not continue her climbing. C1 was enough for her. 

  Park went up to ABC [C1 at 5700m?] on 12 Nov, that was enough for him. 

  Miss Choi and Park left expedition on 13 Nov due to their work back home; they arrived Kathmandu on 15 Nov and left on 16 November. Rest of the team returned Kathmandu on 20 November and will leave on 22 November. Leader Choi said "He hopes to be on Pumori in 2009."

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Wangchuk/Ongchu, 17/12/72, Makalu-9, Kangch X3, Everest X2, etc.
    Pema Tshering, 16/6/70, Makalu-9, Everest X3, Dhaulagiri X1

accidents:
  Frostbite in middle ring and small fingers of both hands of Heung-Hwan Choi and middle ring & small fingers of left hand of Jang (not very serious frostbite)


expid: AMAD07314
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur, Doug Sandok
sponsor: SummitClimb Ama Dablam Expedition 2007
countries: Australia, Belgium, Canada, Denmark, Ireland, Israel, Netherlands, Norway, UK
bcdate: 2007-10-04
smtdate: 2007-10-20
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2007-10-27
campsites: BC(04,07,4600m),ABC(11/10,5300m),C1(05/10,5700m),C2(19/10,6000m),Smt(20,22,24/10)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  Pitched at C3 at 6300m on 17 Oct by Sherpas but after pieces of icefall on night of 18th from Dablam, this team decided to skip C3 (no space for their tent at ridge below C3).

  International Ama Dablam Expedition 2007 led by Doug Sandok & Dan Mazur - 31 October 2007

  First summit party of 15 members and three Sherpas left C2 between 2:00 and 3:30 am on 20 October and all reached the summit between 9:30 amd and 2:10 pm. They were Adamson, Dixon, Foxcroft, Heiberg, Hovland, Johansen, Liu, Merciny, Nolan, Rygnestad, Talbott, Van Gool, Veris, Wegge, Wigderson, Dawa Jangbu, Jangbu and Ang Shera. Liu was very slow, and he and Jangbu were the last on top and back in C2. All returned to C2 between 2:00 and 8:00 pm.

  Second summit party left C2 at 3:00 am on 22 October. Sandok got to 6300m, then down to C1 with stomach problems. Taylor reached 6500m, then down to BC with signs of cerebral edema. Summiters were Goodson, Jacobsen, Mazur, Munnichs, Tenji Sherpa and Lhakpa Gelu. They were on the top at 12:00 to 12:30 pm and back in C2 at 5:45 pm.

  Third summit party left C2 at 3:00 am on 24 October. Dudman got tired and turned back to C2 at 6500m. Ellis got to 6600m but was too slow, reached this point at 2:00 pm, which was "turn-around" time, and he and his Sherpa Lhakpa Tendu turned around and went back to C2 at 8:00 pm. Lawfield climbed to 6700m, also was too slow (because of respiratory problems) and he and Ang Shera got back to C2 at 10:00 pm. The summit was reached at 12:00 to 2:00 pm by Belman, Rolfson, Safieh, Gyalzen Sherpa, Pasang Gelu, Lhakpa (Kongle) and Lhakpa Tendu. Those who got to the summit returned to C2 around 5:00 pm.

  Other non-summiting members:

  Boersma reached C1, became too tired to continue, left about 13 September. 

  Beck developed altitude sickness at Thyangboche, on about 5 September and never reached BC.

  Confer climbed to 6000m on 18 October, then turned back: "there were too many people on the mountain for me," he said.

  Hickman reached C1 on 22 October, got altitude sickness and went down to BC.

  McDonald developed stomach problems and left 20 October.

  Prat reached C1, went down to ABC and fell there, bruising his ribs; left 15 October.

  Tranter got to C1, was not doing well, lost motivation; he had summited Ama Dablam before, in 2004, and it was more important for him that his girlfriend Joanne Goodson got to the summit.

  Accidents, etc:

  Lawfield had respiratory problems which cost him the summit.

  Prat fell at ABC in mid-October and bruised his ribs.

  Nolan and Wigderson: their toes were frostbitten and became black, but no loss expected. Nolan's boots were inadequate, but reason for Widgerson's frostbite not clear, but both were rather slow.

  Taylor showed symptoms of developing cerebral edema in his summit bid on 22 October and recovered by immediately descending to BC.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Shera, 22/4/76 (10/1/2033), Patle, no 8000ers
    Dawa Jangbu, 4/6/79 (21/2/2036), Patle, no 8000ers
    Gyalzen Sherpa, 25/1/74 (12/10/2030), Patle, no 8000ers
    Jangbu Sherpa, 24/5/67, Patle, Everest X2, Cho Oyu 2/10/07 with Arnold Coster
    Lhakpa (Kongle) Sherpa, 24/1/64, Patle, Everest X2
    Lhakpa Tendu (Lhakpa Kormu), 28/3/77 (15/12/2033), Patle, no 8000ers
    Pasang Gelu, 28/11/83, Dhimbul, Gudel, Solu, Everest X4, Dhaulagiri X1
    Tenji Sherpa, 1/6/82 (18/2/2039), Patle, Everest X3


expid: AMAD07315
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Takao Miyashita
sponsor: Team Sapporo Nomad Ama Dablam Expedition 2007
approach: Lukla->Namche->Deboche->Dingboche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2007-10-16
smtdate: 2007-10-25
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2007-10-28
campsites: BC(16/10,4600m),C1(19/10,5750m),C2(23/10,5950m),C3(24/10,6300m),Smt(25/10)
agency: Nomad Expeditions
routememo:
  Ito, Matsui, Matsushima, Miyashita, Obata, Lhakpa Pasang and Gelbu left C3 at 6:30 am on 24 Oct. Ito, Miyashita, Obata, Lhakpa and Gelbu summited at 10:30 am, stayed on summit 20 minutes, then descended to C2 at 3 pm. Next day to BC. Matsui had to turn around with Pasang from 6450m to C2 because of his eye (left) sight problem. Matsushima was very slow; she reached at 6600m at 11 am, but there was not enough time for her to continue climbing, so she descended to C2 with three summiters. Summit day was clear sky, no wind but very cold, maybe -20 degrees. While descending the summit team passed about 4/5 Italians and one Sherpa at 6400m. But Miyashita does not know if they had reached the summit. Miyashita said his team put C3 at mushroom ridge and was safe, no danger of icefall. 

  The team returned Kathmandu on 29 Oct from Tengboche by helicopter and will leave on 2 November. Miyashita is thinking to climb in the Annapurna area next year.

  Sherpas:
    Gelbu Sherpa, 16/6/71, Taksindu-5, Solu
      Summited Dorje Lhakpa in 2003 Spring with Japanese team
    Pasang Sherpa, 29 years old, Taksindu-5, Solu
      Gelbu & Pasang - brothers (from Ministry's file)
    Lhakpa Sherpa, 25/7/68, Tamku-9, Sankhuwasabha
      Ama Dablam in 2005 with Americans (Field Touring/Su Swagatam Trekking)
      Ama Dablam in 2006 with Americans (Field Touring/Su Swagatam Trekking)
      Ama Dablam in 2007: 19 Oct with Everest Pariwar Sherpas route opening
          (no summit),
        25th Oct with Japanese team and 5 Nov with Field Touring/Su Swagatam 
          Trekking team


expid: AMAD07316
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Alexander (Sandy) Allan
sponsor: Southwest Ridge of Ama Dablam
bcdate: 2007-10-25
smtdate: 2007-11-02
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2007-11-05
campsites: BC(25/10,4600m),C1(30/10,5800m),C2(31/10,6100m),C3(01/11,6410m),Smt(02/11)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Summit team left C3 at 3:30 am. Weather and conditions good with good views from summit. They descended to C1, where they arrived at 5:30 pm. On way down they dismantled all camps. On 3 Nov they cleared C1 and descended to BC.

  MacDonald and Cadger reached C1 on 30 Oct; they stayed one night but descended to BC on 31 Oct as they were both having a bad cough. 

  Moradifak never reached higher than BC. He had tried Island Peak before but only made it to 5900m as he didn't feel very well. He decided to call it off and not climb Ama Dablam. He came to BC for the Puja and left BC on 26 Oct.

  Sherpas:
    Kusang Tenzing Sherpa, Lelep-9, Taplejung,16/05/1986
      Ama Dablam: Autumn 2005
    Pasang Sherpa, Lelep-9, Taplejung, 1978
    Lhakpa Rangdu Sherpa, Sotang-6, Solu, 18/11/1967 (2/8/2024)
      Everest 21/5/2005, 19/5/2006


expid: AMAD07317
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Ireland
leaders: John Malcolm Jones
sponsor: Irish Ama Dablam
approach: Lukla->Namche->Deboche
bcdate: 2007-10-05
smtdate: 2007-10-18
termdate: 2007-10-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to avalanche possibility at C3 site
campsites: BC(05/10,4600m),ABC(07/10,5450m),C1(09/10,6000m),C2(13/10,6200m),xxx(18/10,6300m)
agency: Nomad Nepal Treks
routememo:
  Jones and Lhakpa planned to sleep at C3 on 18 Oct for their summit push on 19 Oct. When Jones and Lhakpa arrived at 6300m, they met other climbers descending from C3 who told Jones that there were several icefalls and there was possibility of avalanche and that C3 was not safe. Jones decided to turn around and came down to C2. Next day to BC. 

  Jones returned Kathmandu on 23 Oct and will leave on 30 Oct. Jones had British and Irish passport and prefers to write his nationality as Irish.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Sherpa, 25/7/68 (2025/4/10), Tamiku VDC 9, Sankhuwasabha


expid: AMAD07318
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Simon Yates
sponsor: Mountain Dream Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Iceland
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2007-10-08
smtdate: 2007-10-19
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2007-10-21
campsites: BC(08/10,4700m),C1(12/10,5800m),C3(18/10,6250m),Smt(19/10)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Summit team left C3 at 7 am. Weather was clear and climb was straightforward. They spent about 30 minutes on the summit. They met Francois Cote from Canada there. They descended to C1 and arrived at 5 pm.

  Helgasson and Millichope reached C1 on 12 Oct. Helgasson left BC on 17 Oct as his girlfriend arrived at BC. They went trekking together. Millichope ascended to C1 again on 17 Oct. He stayed for two nights but did not acclimatize well and descended to BC on 19 Oct.

  Sherpas:
    Nurbu Bhote Lama, Hatiya-1, Makalu, 29/5/81, Everest 22/5/07
    Pasang Dawa Sherpa, Pangboche, Khumbu, 18/1/77, 
      Everest X9 (with Henry Todd in Spring 2007)


expid: AMAD07319
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Ben Palmer
sponsor: 2 British on Ama Dablam
approach: Kalapattar
bcdate: 2007-10-12
smtdate: 2007-10-20
termdate: 2007-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 6250m due to lack of strength to solo
campsites: BC(12/10,4700m),ABC(14/10,5300m),C1(16/10,5600m),C2(19/10,6000m),xxx(20/10,6250m)
agency: Yala Adventure
routememo:
  On 20 Oct Palmer left C2 at 9:30 am. Weather was very cold, but clear. The climb was straightforward and enjoyable. When he reached mushroom ridge at about 7 am he met Tim Rippel who told him about the avalanche that came down on 19 Oct. Palmer decided to abandon his climb as he was not feeling strong enough to go up by himself. He descended ta ABC, arrived at noon.

  O'Neill reached BC on 12 Oct. He stayed at BC for the whole expedition as he did not feel strong enough, mentally and physically to climb the mountain.


expid: AMAD07320
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Norway
leaders: Tor Eivind Froen
sponsor: Norwegian Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Dingboche->Chhukung-> Island Peak->Dingboche
bcdate: 2007-10-30
smtdate: 2007-11-03
termdate: 2007-11-04
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to bad snow conditions and worn out fix ropes
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (29 Oct)
campsites: BC(30/10,4600m),ABC(02/11,5100m),C2(03/11,5900m),xxx(03/11,5900m)
agency: Tseringma Treks
routememo:
  Reistad and Dawa Tshering reached C2 on 3 Nov. They planned to go to summit from C2. Reistad talked with climbers who were coming down and they told Reistad about bad snow conditions and worn out fixed rope. Reistad thought it will be a long day to summit from C2 and he gave up and descended to BC on 4th. 

  Froen went up to C1 [5700m site] and returned same day to BC. He was also told by other climbers that the snow conditions were bad. Then he decided to give up. 

  Froen returned Kathmandu on about 6 Nov and left on 9 Nov. Reistad after Ama Dablam went to Gokyo. He returned Kathmandu on 10 Nov and will leave on 16 Nov.

  Sherpa:
    Dawa Tshering/Chhiri, 3/8/71, Beding, Cho Oyu X6, Everest X4, etc.


expid: AMAD07321
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Victor Saunders
sponsor: Saunders Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 2007-10-14
smtdate: 2007-10-20
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2007-10-22
othersmts: Island Peak
campsites: BC(14/10,4500m),C1(15/10,5700m),C3(19/10,6200m),Smt(20/10)
accidents: Pyke's bad chest infection
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  C3 slightly below former C3 sites before 6 Nov avalanche.

  Island Peak summited 13 Oct by all members (no Sherpas). Summit team of all members except Pyke, plus Lhakpa Thundu, left C3 at 7:00 am and on top between 10:00 and 10:30 am; went down to C3 at 1:30 pm. McDonald was tired and preferred to stay that night at C3 and since all had been climbing together, all agreed to stop in C3. All in BC on 21st. A lot of ice kept falling down from the serac band of the Ama Dablam (at about 6500m). Did not camp at C2 site because very little space there.

  2 members, Hawker and Pyke, ran from Everest BC to Kathmandu after the climb.


expid: AMAD07322
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Denmark
leaders: Henrik Berthelsen
sponsor: Independent Dane On Ama Dablam
bcdate: 2007-11-07
smtdate: 2007-11-13
smttime: 1045
termdate: 2007-11-15
campsites: BC(07/11,4565m),C1(11/11,5700m),C2(12/11,6100m),Smt(13/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Berthelsen and Dawa left C2 at 3:00 am and reached summit at 10:45 pm and back in C2 at 2:00 pm on 13th. Descended to BC on 14th Nov. 

  Berthelsen had acclimatized by trekking in Tibet and entered Nepal via Zangmu.

  Sherpa:
    Dawa Sherpa, 1970, Loding-9, Solu, Everest X5


expid: AMAD07323
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Henry Todd
sponsor: ICE 8000 Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Australia
bcdate: 2007-10-12
smtdate: 2007-10-27
smttime: 0950
termdate: 2007-10-30
campsites: BC(12/10,4500m),ABC(24/10,5300m),C1(27/10,5700m),C2 & C3(30/10,6200m),Smt(27,31/10)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  ICE Ama Dablam Expedition led by Henry Todd - 16 November 2007

  Todd arrived at BC sometime between the 8th and 13th of October. Proudlock who had been trekking in Khumbu for a while before going to BC (4500m), arrived there on the 19th or 20th; Grayling arrived on the 22nd.

  Grayling said his movements were as follows:
    ABC on 24 Oct at 5300m
    C1 on 27 Oct at 5700m
    C2 normal site skipped: made next camp on 30 Oct at 6200m, below the former
       site before the November 2006 avalanche. Summit on 31 Oct.

  Grayling and Henry Todd climbed together to C2 and left for the summit together at 7:30 am on the 31st with Pasang Dawa and Lhakpa Thundu. Grayling and Pasang Dawa soon pulled ahead of Todd, who was 62 years old and very slow, and Lhakpa Thundu, who stayed with Todd. Grayling and Pasang Dawa summited at 9:50 am and descended all the way to BC at 5:30 pm. In his descent from the top, Grayling met Todd and Lhakpa Thundu halfway between C2 and the summit; the leader and his Sherpa got to the summit at 1:30 pm and spent that night in C2. On 1 Nov, Todd went down to C1 while Lhakpa Thundu descended to BC; Todd arrived at BC on the 2nd.

  Grayling left BC on 2 November, Todd on 6 or 7 November.

  Proudlock's movements according to Grayling:
    Arrived BC 19 Oct
    Slept in C1 22 Oct, down to BC on 23 Oct, back to C1 on 25 Oct, reached C2 
      26 Oct.
    Left C2 with Nurbu Bhote Lama on 27 Oct at 7:00 am, on summit together at 9:55 am
      and down to C1 at 9:30 pm. Descended to BC on the 28th and left BC on the 30th.

  Sherpas:
    Nurbu Bhote Lama, 29/5/81, Makalu, Everest 22/5/07 
    Pasang Dawa, aka Pa Dawa, 18/1/77, Pangboche, Everest X9, Cho Oyu X4, Lhotse X1 
      Summited with Simon Yates on 19 October
    Lhakpa Thundu, 20/5/70, Pangboche, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X1, Lhotse X1 
      Summited with Victor Saunders on 20 October


expid: AMAD07324
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Tim Mosedale
sponsor: Mosedale's Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Australia, Switzerland
bcdate: 2007-11-03
smtdate: 2007-11-16
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2007-11-20
campsites: BC(03/11,4600m),ABC(06/11,5350m),C1(09/11,5800m),C2(14/11,6000m),C3(15/11,6230m),Smt(16-18/11)
accidents: Lehuin's frostbite
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Mosedale's Ama Dablam - 25 November 2007

  First summit party members were Clark, Dixon, Owen, Skinner and Nurbu Bhote Lama. they left C3 on 16 November at 8:30 am, reached the summit at 3:00 pm and were back in C3 at 6:00 pm.

  Second summit party members were North, Taylor and Tshering Namgyal. They left C3 on the 17th at 8:30 am, were on the top at 1:00 pm and went down to C2 at 6:00 pm.

  Thirds summit party members were Dey, Helen Chase, Paul Chase, Hunt and Lhakpa Wangchu. They left C3 at 8:30 am. Helen Chase, her husband Paul and Hunt got as far as the Dablam at about 6600m and then were too tired to continue the ascent, while Dey and Lhakpa Wangchu went on to the summit at 12:50 pm, and returned to C3 at 5:30 pm.

  Other non-summiting members:

  Lehuin reached 6100m on the 15th, was tired and descended to BC. His toes got frosbitten on the 15th and 16th; they turned purple but not black, will heal. He left BC by helicopter on the 19th.

  Mosedale went to C2 on the 14th. Lehuin had dropped his sleeping bag while he was on his way to C2 that day, so Mosedale gave him his own sleeping bag and retreated to BC.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Nurbu Bhote Lama, 29/5/81, Makalu, Everest 22/5/07
      (also summited Ama Dablam with Henry Todd's member on 27/10/07)
    Tshering Namgyal, 14/5/84, Pangboche, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1
    Lhakpa Wangchu, 20/10/86, Pangboche, Everest X2 in spring 2007
      (also summited Ama Dablam with Serbian-led team on 15/11/07)


expid: AMAD07325
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Norway
leaders: Haavard Gjerdset
sponsor: Ama Dablam Expedition 2007
bcdate: 2007-11-02
smtdate: 2007-11-11
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2007-11-15
campsites: BC(02/11,4600m),C1(06/11,5700m),C2(10/11,6050m),Smt(11,13/11)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  Ama Dablam Expedition 2007 led by Haavard Gjerdset - 20 November 2007

  First summit party were Haavard Gjerdset, Elin Gjerdset, Gravem, Haugen, Oystein Olai Heggen, Saebo, Tommeras, Pasang Dawa, Phur Sona, Pema Chhosang and Karma Sarki. They left C2 at 3:00 am on 11 November and were buffeted by strong wind from 6300m up.

  Elin Gjerdset got to 6700m and asked the Sherpa with her how far they were from the top; he said it would take them one or two hours more -- when actually they were quite close -- she turned back to C2. Saebo had reached 6700m, but was moving slowly and developing cerebral edema; when he was met by Haavard Gjerdset, who was descending from the summit, he turned back and they went to C2 together. The others, including Haavard Gjerdset, were on the top at 2:30 pm and were back in C2 at 8:30 pm.

  As Gravem descended from the summit and got to the site of C3 (6300m), he from some unknown cause became blind although speaking and thinking clearly and had to be helped to descend from there. The team had two tents at the Mushroom Ridge and two Sherpas went down with him to the tents while two other Sherpas in two hours in the dark brought up from C2 a sleeping bag and other gear for him in this shelter from the cold night. This saved him from dying of exposure. He got better quickly, and in C2 on the 12th he had fully recovered; but he had five badly frostbitten fingers which had turned black but are expected to heal. Then as he trekked from BC to Namche Bazar, one leg became swollen; he was flown by helicopter from Namche to Kathmandu, where he was diagnosed as having deep leg thrombosis.

  Second Summit party were Gundersen, Sandbakk, Sandberg, Svengaard, Lhakpa Gelu, Lhakpa Thundu and Lhakpa Sona. They left C2 at 2:30 am on the 13th. Sandberg turned back at 6300m because he was getting cold and realized he would not get to the top; Lhakpa Gelu went down with him to C2. The others reached the summit between 10:30 and 11:30 am in good weather with no wind and were back in C2 at 4:30 to 5:00 pm.

  Illnesses and frostbite: See above in first summit party, Saebo began to get cerebral edema, and Gravem was temporarily blind, got frostbite and deep leg thrombosis.

  Other members:
    Ronny Heggen went to C2 only
    Henriksen went to C1 only
    Hexeberg went above C1 but did not reach C2
    Jensen to C2 only
    Noikleby to C2 only
    Norseth went above C1 only
    Solbakke went above C1 only
    Sveen went above C1 as high as 5900m on 8 November, but was not comfortable
      with the route and left expedition on 10 November to go Kalapattar.
    Sund went to C2 only

  Sherpas:
    Karma Sarki/Serki, 25/1/87 (11/10/2043), Phortse, Everest 20/5/07
    Lhakpa Gelu, 12/4/77, Thumduk, Beni-3, Everest X2
    Lhakpa Sona, 46 years old, Phortse, Manaslu in May 1987, Everest in May 1988 
      with Japanese-Chinese-Nepalese expedition
    Lhakpa Thundu Sherpa, 20/5/70, Pangboche, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X1, Lhotse X1
      Also summited Ama Dablam with Victor Saunders on 20/10/07 and Ama Dablam with 
      Henry Todd on 31/10/07
    Pasang Dawa, 18/1/77, Pangboche, Everest X9, Cho Oyu X4, Lhotse X1
      Climbs with Henry Todd's teams; also summited Ama Dablam with Simon Yates on 
      19/10/07 and Henry Todd's member on 31/10/07
    Pema Chhosang, 30/4/72, Khumjung, Everest 14/5/06, Cho Oyu 1/10/06
    Phur Sona, aka Ang Sona, Pangboche, 17/7/69, Everest 2/5/07


expid: AMAD07326
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Soon-Gu
sponsor: Red Cross Rescue Sarak Mountain Expedition to Ama Dablam
approach: Lukla->Namche->Deboche
bcdate: 2007-11-21
smtdate: 2007-11-27
termdate: 2007-12-07
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to altitude and eye problems
campsites: BC(21/11,4600m),C1(25/11,5600m),C2(26/11,5800m),xxx(27/11,6800m)
agency: Everest Expeditions
routememo:
  Kang and Jyamchang left C2 at 5 am on 27 Nov for summit. When they reached 6800m Kang suffered from headache and started having an eye problem, so they return to C2 at about 7 pm. Next day both went to BC. 

  On 2 Dec Cho, Choi, Kang and Jamling started their summit push; slept at C1. 3 Dec they reached C2 planning to summit on 4 Dec. There was big avalanche on 4 Dec above C3. The team then decided to descend and came down to BC on same day. 

  Kim climbed up to C1 on 25 Nov. He suffered from headache and descended to BC next day. The team returned to Kathmandu on 9 Dec and will leave on 13 Dec. The team members along with some more climbers planning to come for Lhotse in 2009.

  The team's original plan was to go for West Face, but they changed their mind and went to normal route (SW Ridge) without looking at face.

  Sherpa:
    Jyamchang Bhote, 13/4/81, Hungung, Farang, Makalu-Barun, Cho Oyu X3, Everest X1


expid: AMAD07327
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Frederic Heymes
sponsor: E. F. Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Jiri->Junbesi->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2007-10-20
smtdate: 2007-10-28
smttime: 1700
termdate: 2007-11-01
campsites: BC(20/10,4500m),C1(23/10,5600m),C2(27/10,5900m),Smt(28/10)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Exposito and Heymes left C2 at 8 am about 1 pm. Heymes reached at 6700m and he had to turn around due to strong wind and he went to C2. Exposita reached summit at about 5 pm, stayed on summit about 10 minutes. Weather was good but windy. He reached C3 at about 7:30 pm and slept in one of the empty sherpa tents. Next day to C2, sleep there and following day to BC. There was no body on the mountain on that day. 

  The team returned Kathmandu on 4 November and will leave on 8 November. The team had to go to BC via Jiri after waiting 5 days in Kathmandu for Lukla flight which did not operate due to bad weather.


expid: AMAD07328
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Jonas Cruces
sponsor: Madrid to Ama Dablam
approach: Island Peak->Gokyo
bcdate: 2007-10-30
smtdate: 2007-11-03
smttime: 1040
termdate: 2007-11-05
othersmts: Island Peak
campsites: BC(30/10,4500m),ABC(31/10,5393m),C2(01/11,5993m),Smt(03/11)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Cruces left C2 at 2 am on 3 Nov. It was very cold and windy. He stopped at C3 at 4:30 am as it was too windy to carry on. He left C3 at about 6 am for the summit. The wind was still very strong. Good views from summit. He descended first to C3, had some tea there, and then went on to C2 where he arrived at 2 pm. On 4 Nov he descended to BC.


expid: AMAD07329
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Eduardo Ibero
sponsor: Spanish Ama Dablam Expedition 2007
approach: Jiri->Junbesi->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2007-10-20
smtdate: 2007-10-26
smttime: 1100
campsites: BC(20/10,4500m),ABC(21/10,5300m),C1(24/10,5600m),C2(25/10,5900m),Smt(26/10)
accidents: Munoz suffered from pulmonary edema
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  De Dios, Ibero, Porras and Zendoia left C2 at 5:30 am on 26 Oct. De Dios reached summit at 11 am stayed on summit about 45 minutes, descended to C2 about 2 pm. Ibero and Porras summited at 12:15 pm. Ibero spent about 20 minutes on summit and descended to C2 at 3:30 pm. Zendoia reached summit at 2:40 pm, stayed on summit about 15 minutes. Porras and Zendoia reached C2 at about 7 pm. Weather was good but windy. No other climber summited on that day. 

  Munoz got pulmonary edema at BC on 21 Oct. Austrian Doctor advised to send Munoz to Pangboche - oxygen was given to him at Pangboche and reached from Pangboche by helicopter. He is Ok now and went to Pokhara. He will be back in Kathmandu on 6 Nov. Rest of the members returned Kathmandu on 4 November and all will leave on 8 November. The team had to wait for five days in Kathmandu due to bad weather in Lukla then decided to trek out via Jiri.


expid: AMAD07330
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Sara Bertoldo
sponsor: Italians on Ama Dablam
approach: Kalapattar->Everest BC
bcdate: 2007-10-19
smtdate: 2007-10-25
smttime: 1515
termdate: 2007-10-28
campsites: BC(19/10,4535m),C1(25/10,5750m),Smt(25/10)
agency: Amuse Treks
routememo:
  Summit team left C1 at 4 am. Weather was clear but cold. They went straight from C1 to the summit. They were back at C3 site at 6:45 am and C2 site at 10:14 am. Good views from summit. They descended to C1 where they arrived at 10 pm. On 26 Oct they descended to BC.


expid: AMAD07331
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Serbia
leaders: Dragan Jacimovic
sponsor: Dragan Jacimovic's team to Ama Dablam
countries: Bosnia-Herzegovina, Croatia
bcdate: 2007-11-02
smtdate: 2007-11-15
smttime: 1140
termdate: 2007-11-17
campsites: BC(02/11,4600m),C1(06/11,5800m),C3(14/11,6300m),Smt(15/11),C2(15/11,6000m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Dragan Jacimovic's team on Ama Dablam - 22 Nov 2007

  Summit team of Djuric, Grdovic, Kalajdzisalihovic, Mufic, and Lhakpa Wangchu left C3 on 15 November at 5:30 am and were on the top from 11:40 am to 12:05 pm with cloudless sky overhead and slight wind blowing. They descended to C2 to sleep and were in BC on the 16th.

  Non-summiting members:
    Jacimovic went to C1, but had no interest in going higher
    Kajlanac also went to C1 only, but did not feel well

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Wangchu Sherpa, 20/10/86, Pangboche, Everest X2 in spring 2007


expid: AMAD07332
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Stephen Bell
sponsor: Jagged Globe Ama Dablam Expedition 2007
countries: Australia, Norway, USA
bcdate: 2007-11-20
smtdate: 2007-12-02
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2007-12-05
campsites: BC(20/11,4600m),ABC(23/11,5300m),C1(24/11,5700m),C2(30/11,6000m),C3(01/12,6250m),Smt(02/12)
accidents: Bjoseth slight frostbite
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  C3 just below normal C3 ledge.

  Jagged Globe Ama Dablam Expedition led by Stephen Bell - 13 November 2007

  The team acclimatized by spending two nights in Pheriche on their way to BC. 

  All members of the expedition made summit bids on two successive days. The first summit party consisted of four members and two Sherpas, all of whom reached the top: Bjoseth, Delahunty, Grant de Longueuil, Adam Hooper, Phur Gyalzen and Pema Chhiring. They left C3 at 5:00 am on 2 December, were on the summit between 9:30 and 9:45 am and down to C2 at 4:30 pm. The next day they were in BC.

  The second summit party consisted of the remaining four members and two Sherpas, but only Ang Dawa reached the top. They were Arcari, Bell, Billson, Larson, Ang Dawa and Pema Tshering. They all left C2 at 5:00 am on the 3rd, but the lovely weather of the day before had disappeared. Now it was very cold, windy and started clouding over that morning. Ang Dawa was on the summit at 8:00 am and was back in BC at 7:00 pm. At 8:30 am, Bell and Larson were at the prominent rock in the middle of the summit [200m below the true summit] because they were cold and descended to C1 at 5:30 pm. Billson got to 6500m because she was cold, went down to C3 to wait for the others and descend with them to C1. Pema Tshering took her to down to C3, then went back up to 6500m and helped Ang Dawa to escort Larson down to C1. Arcari got only about 20 meters above C3 and felt too cold to continue; he also descended to C1 with the other members. The Sherpas continued down to BC. It snowed heavily during the night, but all were safely in BC on the 4th.

  One member got frostbite: Bjoseth's thumb and three fingers got slightly frostbitten at their tips, but not seriously so.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Dawa, 22/7/81, Kharikhola, Jubing-1, Solu, Everest X1
    Pema Chhiring, 17/12/83 (2/9/2040), Beding, Everest X5, etc.
    Pema Tshering, aka Pem Chhiri, 14/2/80 (2/11/2036) [he says 16/12/80], 
      Chankhu-6, Dolakha, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1
    Phura Gyalzen, 24//1/84 (10/10/2040), Pangkoma, Jubing-8, Solu, Everest X1, 
      Kangchenjunga X1, Cho Oyu X1


expid: AMAD07333
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Tomas Kysilka
sponsor: Montana 210 Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Phortse->Pangboche
bcdate: 2007-10-01
smtdate: 2007-10-05
termdate: 2007-10-08
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to lots of snow and members were tired
campsites: BC(01/10,4500m),ABC(03/10,5300m),C1(04/10,5700m),C2(05/10,6200m),xxx(05/10,6200m)
agency: Adventure Mountain Club
routememo:
  On 5 Oct Cermak, Plsek and Rajf slept at C2. On 6 Oct they wanted to go to higher camp but could not due to snow conditions, so they descended to BC.  

  Kysilka climbed up to 5700m on 4 Oct, but he was tired and gave up climbing.

  The team arrived Kathmandu on 17 Oct and will leave on 21 Oct.


expid: AMAD07334
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Diego Wellig
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Ama Dablam Expedition 2007
approach: Mera Peak
bcdate: 2007-10-06
smtdate: 2007-10-19
termdate: 2007-10-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to ice falling in C3
campsites: BC(06/10,4700m),C1(11/10,5750m),xxx(19/10,6300m)
agency: Iceland Trekking (Dorje)
routememo:
  Ms. Truffer and Namgyal Sherpa left C1 at 4:30 am. Weather was clear. They turned back due to avalanche that came down earlier. They descended to BC, arrived at noon.

  Maas and Anjan Truffer reached C1 on 18 Oct. They were planning on pushing for summit on 19 Oct, but were going to leave later than Ms. Truffer as they would have stayed 1 night at C3. They abandoned climb due to ice falling as it would have been too dangerous.

  Wellig reached C2 site on 12 Oct, but he did not stay the night as he was only setting up camp.


expid: AMAD07335
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: N Ridge (to 5847m)
route2: SW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Leonid Butov
sponsor: Ama Dablam North Ridge Expedition 2007
countries: USA
approach: (see route notes)
bcdate: 2007-10-01
smtdate: 2007-10-18
smttime: 1810
termdate: 2007-10-20
othersmts: Island Peak up to 6050m only (lots of snow)
agency: Monterosa Treks
campsites:
  BC1(01/10,5080m),xxx(09/10,5847m);BC2(12/10,4600m),C1(13/10,5700m),C2(14/10,5950m),C3(16/10,6300m),Smt(18/10)

routememo:
  Approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Dingboche->Ama Dablam BC->Chhukung->Island Peak BC   

  Russian Ama Dablam (SW Ridge):

  On 18 Oct Boldyrev and Vorotnikova left C3 at 5:15 am; both reached the summit at 6:15 pm. Butov left C3 at 6:45 am, reached summit at 6:10 pm. Vorotnikov left C3 at 7 am and reached summit at 6:30 pm. All descended together to C3 between 8:30 to 9 pm. Slept at C3 and next day to BC. This is the only team who had summited on that day. Weather on summit was very windy and very cold. When the team arrived at C1 and C2, camps were occupied by Sherpas and they were not moving up due to snow conditions. The Butov team was allowed by Sherpas to use unoccupied tents at C1 and C2. Since the team was running out of time it worked hard to open up the route for C3 and to summit. There was lots of snow along the route and it took them 12 hours to reach the summit. Whereas on 19 Oct four people Canadians and Sherpas reached summit from C3 in four hours. There was occasional ice falling above C3 during the night on their way up and down. Members hardly had enough sleep at C3. The team brought back the final stretch of fixed rope to the summit to enable them to descend safely. 

  Butov returned Kathmandu on 21 Oct and left same day. Boldyrev, Vorotnikov and Vorotnikova returned Kathmandu on 22 Oct. Boldyrev wants to leave Kathmandu as soon as possible. Vorotnikov couple will leave Kathmandu on 27 Oct.

  Menchenin suffered from flu and sore throat on 21 Sept in Namche. The team rested one more day there hoping that Menchenin could recover. But the team had to leave Namche without Menchenin. Menchenin returned Kathmandu on about 25 and left on 27 Sept.

  North Ridge Attempt:

  Butov's team originally was to climb North Ridge. The team reached North Ridge BC at 5080m. The team put up about 150m ropes on the ridge on the same day. Next day 1 Oct after Puja the team fix another 50m rope and the following day another 200m. By 9 Oct the team fixed about 1 km of ropes on the ridge up to 5847m. In between, Butov and Vorotnikov suffered from stomach problem and they had to spend two days in Dingboche. The team realized that the progress of fixing line was too slow with limited manpower. The route was full of soft snow and difficult. There always was risk of slipping and was not safe. The team tried to hire Sherpas just to take the loads up but nobody showed interest to do the job saying that it is very dangerous to go up with loads. There were Sherpas who came all the way from Pangboche. Finally, on 9 Oct the expedition decided to quit the North Ridge and to move to normal route. The team cleared the North Ridge route on 11 October and next day moved to normal route BC.


expid: AMAD07336
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Martin Pulkrabek
sponsor: Martin Ama Dablam Expedition 2007
approach: Lukla->Namche->Tengboche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2007-10-13
smtdate: 2007-10-16
termdate: 2007-10-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to storm (lots of snow)
campsites: BC(13/10,4500m),C1(15/10,5500m),C2(16/10,6000m),xxx(16/10,6000m)
agency: Tseringma Treks
routememo:
  Pulkrabek and Dawa slept at C2 on 16 Oct. Storm started in the night. On 17 Oct both descended to BC and gave up the climb. 

  The team returned Kathmandu on 19 Oct and will leave on 23 Oct. 2008 Spring Pulkrabek plans to go to Everest north side; after Everest to Ama Dablam.


expid: AMAD07337
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Franco Demarchi
sponsor: Swiss-Italian Ama Dablam
countries: Italy
bcdate: 2007-11-24
smtdate: 2007-11-28
smttime: 1220
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak (19 Nov)
campsites: BC(24/11,4500m),C2(27/11,6000m),Smt(28-29/11)
agency: Nature Unlimited Treks
routememo:
  Swiss-Italian Ama Dablam led by Franco Demarchi - 7 December 2007

  The team first went to acclimatize on Mera Peak, which they summited on 19 November. (On his return from load carrying to Mera for the team, their porter, Chandra Kumar Rai, 27, from Gudel, Solu, died from unknown causes at 3400m when he was three days from Mera La. The team didn't know about this until later).

  The party arrived at Ama Dablam BC on 24 November and moved quickly up the mountain. They made no ABC and skipped C1, on the 27th stayed in C2 in a tent belonging to the Jagged Globe expedition led by Stephen Bell by previous arrangement, skipped C3, and sent two members to the summit on 28th. The summit pair, Brically and Zanini, left C2 at 6:00 am, were on the top at 12:20 pm and were back in BC at 6:30 pm that evening.

  On the following day, the 29th, Demarchi left C2 alone at 6:00 am, reached the summit at 12:20 pm descended to C1 at 5:00 pm, and slept there in a small tent deposited at the site in advance. He did not go down to BC that evening because he was tired and alone. He was in BC at 10:00 am on the 30th.

  Gianini went to 6000m on the 28th but turned back and descended to BC. Olivier and Opreni did the same thing on the 29th. All three had bad headaches, apparently the first symptoms of mild high altitude sickness.


expid: AMAD07339
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Johan Van Damme
sponsor: Belgium to Ama Dablam (on Pawlowski permit)
bcdate: 2007-11-11
smtdate: 2007-11-16
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2007-11-18
campsites: BC(11/11,4550m),C1(13/11,5700m),C2(14/11,6000m),C3(15/11,6300m),Smt(16/11)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Van Damme was already somewhat acclimatized, having trekked slowly from Lukla with his girl friend, who waited for him at BC to make his ascent. Pawlowski's team left their tent in place for Van Damme to use and Pawlowski's Sherpa helped him to bring down gear. He returned to BC on 17 Nov.


expid: AMAD07340
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Ryszard Pawlowski
sponsor: Patagonia Mountain Agency (PMA) Ama Dablam Expedition 2007
countries: Australia, Finland
bcdate: 2007-11-07
smtdate: 2007-11-14
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2007-11-16
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (9 members on 5 Nov)
campsites: BC(07/11,4550m),C1(09/11,5700m),C2(12/11,6000m),C3(13/11,6300m),Smt(14/11)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Patagonia Ama Dablam Expedition - 21 November 2007

  The expedition's only summit bid was made by Jaskolka, Nevala, Szelagowski and Ziolkowski, who left C3 at 10:00 am on the 14th of November, reached the top at 3:00 pm, stayed only ten minutes on the summit because weather was cold and cloudy -- no views to take pictures of -- and returned to C3 at 5:30 pm.

  They had no problems at C3. They were a small group and there were very few teams left on the mountain, so they had no problem about crowding at the limited amount of space available.

  Most members did not go high. They had been to Island Peak before coming to Ama Dablam, and a number of them were not motivated to summit another mountain (nine had summited Island Peak on 5 November). In fact, two of the original members did not go to Ama Dablam at all. The others high points were:

    Gron went to C1, decided that was enough for him, and left the team on 11 Nov.
    Klonowski went just above BC to 5000m, the Island Peak climb had been enough, 
      and left 9th Nov.
    Koscielny spent three nights in C1 and got to 5850m (halfway between C1 and C2) 
      on 13 Nov.
    Kula went to C1, decided he had had enough with his Island Peak climb, and left 
      on 9 Nov.
    Pawlowski stayed at BC throughout the climb (as he had at Island Peak) because 
      he had been seriously ill earlier in the season.
    Szewczak never went above BC and left on 10 Nov.


expid: AMAD07341
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Volodymyr Khytrykov
sponsor: Windhorse International Ama Dablam
approach: Lukla->Namche->Deboche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2007-10-23
smtdate: 2007-11-01
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2007-11-02
campsites: BC(23/10,4500m),ABC(25/10,4900m),C1(20/10,5600m),C2(31/10,5800m),Smt(01/11)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  The team reached C2 on 31 Oct from Pangboche. Goncharov, Khytrykova, Khytrykov, Nesterchuk and Turtukov left C2 at 4 am on 1 Nov, reached summit all members except Turtukov at around 12 noon; stayed on summit about 30 minutes, descended to C2 about 5 pm, slept there and next day to Pangboche. Turtukov had to turn around to C2 from C3 site due to chest pain. 

  Turtukova remained at Pangboche. The team returned to Kathmandu on 7 Nov and will leave on 8 Nov.


expid: ANNE07301
peakid: ANNE
year: 2007
route1: Eastern end of S Face
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Tomaz Humar
sponsor: Humar to Annapurna I (East)
ascent1: 6th
approach: Pokhara->South Annapurna BC
bcdate: 2007-09-27
smtdate: 2007-10-28
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2007-10-30
termnote: Abandoned at 8026m due to strong wind
othersmts: Climbed Tharpu Chuli (Oct 2)
campsites: BC(27/09,4150m),ABC(10/10,5000m),Biv1(24/10,5800m),Biv2(26/10,7200m),Smt(28/10)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Humar to Annapurna 1 - 4 Nov 2007

  Humar, Dr. Anda Perdan and Jagat Bahadur Limbu reached the Annapurna Base Camp Lodge on 24 September and stayed there because of incessant rain causing rivulets to flow along the trails. On the 29th, despite continuing rainfall, they moved north to their BC at 4150m on the east side of the Annapurna South Glacier. The rain continued; they had to move their tents five times because of water accumulating beneath them.

  They had almost constant bad weather -- rain or snow, plus wind later -- for weeks. But Humar stuck to his goal of climbing Annapurna I's South Face. He needed to acclimatize before attempting the mountain, so he climbed some other peaks in the area. On 2 October he went alone to Rakshi Peak (about 5000m south-southwest of Tharpu Chuli) in deep, soft sticky snow. Again a period of bad weather. On the 8th he was able to solo Tharpa Chuli, also known as Tent Peak, 5663m high, by a new route (NW Face-NW Ridge), but the mountains were not very high; his attempt to get acclimatized was not very successful.

  Next, from 7 October he and his sirdar, Jagat, sent five days trying to see conditions in the best approach to Annapurna I's South Face towards its eastern end and conditions on the face itself. He selected the far easatern end for his line up the face because there are not so many falling stones here as there are to the west. It was very difficult to make his reconnaissance in fog among very confusing rock formations and big crevasses. Finally they found the key to reaching the face by going around rock towers to a hidden plateau: the plateau was the key.

  They put a small tent at 5000m under a huge rock for their ABC on 10 October. It was eight hours from BC and just below the Catalan route climbed by Enric Lucas and Nil Bohigas to the East Summit in the autumn of 1984. On the 11th they went down to BC, "completely exhausted," for a rest.

  Now there was more snowfall. On the 23rd they returned to ABC, and on the 24th they had considerable difficulty on the snow-covered crevassed way to the plateau, where they managed to reach and make Humar's first bivouac at 5800m at 6:00 pm. Humar had developed a toothache on the 23rd; he stayed at the bivouac an extra day to acclimatize and nurse his toothache, but he also spent three hours to look for the way to cross the plateau to reach the South Face. A strong wind pushed Humar's tent for 20 meters when he was inside it, but no damage done.

  On the 26th he left the bivouac and began his push up the face alone. He took with him food for five days, a stove and two gas cylinders, a bivouac sack, a small sleeping bag, two ice screws, two Prusiks and an ice axe, but no helmet and of course no oxygen. Jagat went with him across the "key" plateau to the foot of the South Face.

  From here, Humar started up the face alone. At first it was bare rock, then covered with snow, then rock again to his second bivouac at 7200m. It was a large snow hole which he dug out of the deep snow covering the face here. He stayed in this bivouac for two nights (the 26th and 27th) while rocks fell down the face beside his hole, but he was never hit.

  On the 28th, he returned to his climb. He left his second bivouac with the "absolute minimum" of gear. At 6:00 am he started up despite strong wind and his not having slept the previous night while thinking about what to do the next day. It was very cold. It took him two hours to reach the East Ridge. He started moving alone the ridge itself but most of the way to the East Summit he made his way a few meters below the ridge of the North Face, moving carefully, very conscious of the danger of cornices breaking under his weight.

  He had expected to reach the East Summit at noon, but it was 3:00 pm when he got there. While moving between the point where he gained the ridge and the East Summit, the wind was so strong that he had to lie down on the snow and crawl forward on his hands and knees between the gusts.

  He spent very little time on this summit (8026m high) and soon began his descent down the way he had come up. But this was not easy. The wind had obliterated his tracks, and after it became dark, the light from his headlamp lasted only briefly. He had to wait for the moon to rise at about 7:00 pm to give him sufficient light to move over the mini-peaks on the ridge. He slept there until 2:00-3:00 am of the 29th; he brewed some tea and a hot lemon drink (Tang). By now his toes had become slightly frostbitten.

  At 8:00 am on the 29th, he left his snow hole and started down the face. He moved very fast in his decent without any rope and was in his first bivouac at 12:00 noon and met Jagat here. He stayed only half an hour and then went with Jagat to ABC at 5:00 pm and BC at 8:30 pm in deep snow. His climb was finished. 

  Sherpa"
    Jagat Bahadur Limbu, 29/1/76 (15/10/2032), Ankhibhui-4, Sankhuwasabha


expid: ANN407301
peakid: ANN4
year: 2007
route1: NW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Ronald Sanga
sponsor: Ron's American Annapurna IV Expedition
bcdate: 2007-10-23
smtdate: 2007-10-24
termdate: 2007-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 5790m due to avalanching
othersmts: Climbed Chulu Far East (Oct 23)
campsites: BC(23/10,4875m),xxx(24/10,5790m)
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  BC at Sabje Khola
  High point at C1 site.

  Ron's American Annapurna IV Expedition - 19 November 2007

  Sanga went first to climb Chulu East. Went by bus to Besishar and trekked in the Manang valley to Hongde, where they met some Sherpas coming from Chulu East. These Sherpas said there was too much snow on Chulu East, so Sanga climbed Chulu Far East instead and summited on 23 October via its South Ridge.

  Snow conditions on Chulu Far East were excellent, so he and his two Sherpas hurried to Annapurna IV in the hope that snow conditions there also would be good. They made BC on the same day, 23rd, at 4875m on the Sabje Khola north of the mountain.

  But "seracs and avalanches and everything were just falling.... We climbed a little bit, but when everything is falling, it's not so good." Sanga and Ang Gyalzen went up to the site for C1 at 5790m and immediately down to BC because of the avalanching, and they left the mountain the same day. They had not been hit by avalanching and were "healthy, strong, feeling fine, but mountain didn't want us to be there," Sanga said.

  Sherpa:
   Ang Gyalzen Sherpa, aka Rinji, 24/6/73, Kharikhola, no 8000ers


expid: BARU07301
peakid: BARU
year: 2007
route1: SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Pierre Mathy
sponsor: Frenchmen on Baruntse
ascent1: 72nd
approach: Lukla->Mera La
bcdate: 2007-10-19
smtdate: 2007-10-26
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2007-10-28
campsites: BC(19/10,5400m),C1(24/10,6200m),C2(25/10,6500m),Smt(26/10)
agency: Trinetra Adventure
routememo:
  Team left C2 at 6:00 am. Weather was good but cold and very windy. They arrived at the mushroom at 7000m at about 11:30 am. They overcame it by going left around it. The Amical team had fixed a rope there which they used. After mushroom there was an arete, which they climbed as a shared lead. There was no more fixed rope after mushroom. Good views from summit (reached between 12:30-13:30 pm). Albert, Mercier and Montarou descended to BC. Albert and Montarou arrived there at 5 pm, Mercier arrived at 7 pm. Mathy and Shree Maharjan descended to C2, arrived at 3:50 pm. The next day they descended to BC. On 28 Oct they walked out via the Amphu Laptsa.


expid: BARU07302
peakid: BARU
year: 2007
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Chris Semmel
sponsor: Amical Alpin Baruntse Expedition 2007
ascent1: 73rd, 74th
countries: Austria
approach: Lukla->Mera La
bcdate: 2007-10-17
smtdate: 2007-10-27
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2007-11-01
campsites: BC(17/10,5400m),C1(21/10,6150m),C2(25/10,6450m),Smt(27,29/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Rai)
routememo:
  27 October Beermann, Jehle, Werling and Semmel left C2 at 5 am. Weather was clear and windy. They fixed rope at 6850m. Werling and Semmel turned back at this point as they were tired; Beermann and Jehle carried on without fixed line. After summiting they descended to BC, where they arrived at 5 pm. 

  Semmel was at C1 that day, reascended to C2 on 28 Oct. On 29 Oct summit team left C2 at 4:30 am (Semmel together with Hinterwimmer and Rumpa, Gruber and Mulac). It was windy. Gruber and Mulac turned back at about 6500m due to cold fingers and toes. Hinterwimmer and Rumpa got to 6800m, then they turned back as the section at 6800m was too steep for Hinterwimmer and Rumpa had a cold. The remaining team summited at 10:30 am. They descended to BC, where they arrived at 3 pm.

  On 28 Oct Korn and Kugler went for summit push. They left for summit from C2 at 9 am. They reached 6800m at 2 pm, but turned back as it was getting too late, and descended to C2, where they arrived at 4 pm.


expid: BARU07303
peakid: BARU
year: 2007
route1: SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Michel Vincent
sponsor: French Baruntse
countries: Belgium
approach: Mera La
bcdate: 2007-10-20
smtdate: 2007-10-26
termdate: 2007-10-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6850m due to mushroom too difficult
campsites: BC(20/10,5500m),C1(22/10,6105m),C2(25/10,6350m),xxx(26/10,6850m)
agency: Glacier Safari Treks
routememo:
  High point team left C2 at 5 am on 26 Oct. Weather was good, conditions perfect. They reached high point at noon. They looked at the mushroom and decided that it was too dangerous to climb as the snow seemed too soft to climb and there was no fixed rope. They descended to C1, where they arrived at 4 pm. The next day they descended to Sherpani Col and walked out towards Makalu BC. 

  Laroche and Jespers reached C2 on 25 Oct. Neither of them could sleep, so they descended on 26 Oct to C1 where they waited for others. 

  Group walked out via Tumlingtar.

  Sherpa:
    Ritemba Sherpa, 05/08/1970, Yaphu-9, Shankhuwasabha, to 8000m on Everest 
      in 1992, Baruntse 1996 [summit?]


expid: BARU07304
peakid: BARU
year: 2007
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Zachary Poulton
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Baruntse Expedition 2007
ascent1: 75th, 76th
approach: Mera La
bcdate: 2007-10-26
smtdate: 2007-11-02
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2007-11-08
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak
campsites: BC(26/10,5450m),C1(31/10,6100m),C2(01/11,6400m),Smt(02,06/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  2 Nov summit team left C2 at 4:30. Clear and cold weather with good conditons. Ridge below mushroom was quite hard but in good condition. Mushroom straightforward about 60 degrees. Good views from summit. Everyone apart from Sherpas descended to C2, arrived at 4:30 pm. On 3 Nov everyone descended to BC. Sherpas descended to BC on 2 Nov. 

  On 4 Nov, the 6 Nov summit team left BC again, 5 Nov to C2. On 6 Nov summit team left C2 at 3 am. Good conditions good views. Everyone descended to BC, arrived at 7:30 pm.

  Michael Green climbed Mera Peak with this group (all members summited). He decided to leave expedition after Mera as he found it quite hard so he decided to go back to Kathmandu. He left expedition on 23 Oct.

  Sherpas:
    Sonam Dorje, 18/1/86, Pangboche, Everest 17/5/06, Cho Oyu 1/10/06
    Nuru Wangchu, 18/7/72 (2/5/2034), Pangboche, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X2


expid: BARU07305
peakid: BARU
year: 2007
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Gregor Rex
sponsor: Baruntse Team 2007
countries: Netherlands, Switzerland
approach: Mera La
bcdate: 2007-10-24
smtdate: 2007-11-02
termdate: 2007-11-04
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to dehydration and fatigue
campsites: BC(24/10,5400m),C1(29/10,6100m),C2(01/11,6900m),xxx(02/11,6900m)
accidents: Pulmonary edema by Simons
agency: Iceland Trekking (Dorje)
routememo:
  Gregor Rex, Van Mulken, Pema and Lhakpa left C2 at 4:15 am. Weather was calm and clear. Van Mulken turned back at 6500m at 6 am due to feeling unwell. Rex and 2 Sherpas got to bottom of Mushroom and even though it would have been doable, they turned back as Rex was feeling unwell. They descended to BC where Van Mulken arrived at 1 pm and Rex with Sherpas at 2 pm.

  Kuoni reached 6500m on 30 Oct. He went on reconnaissance and descended to BC the next day. He did not feel like climbing anymore. 

  Christine Rex reached C1 on 27 Oct. She did not stay the night. She found the trip to C1 too exhausting and decided to abandon climb. 

  Simons reached BC on 24 Oct. She did not feel well and after she had developed symptoms of pulmonary edema. She was flown to Kathmandu on 25 Oct. She flew back to Zurich two days later.


expid: BARU07306
peakid: BARU
year: 2007
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Kees Van Berkesteijn
sponsor: SLA Baruntse Expedition 2007
approach: Puyan Khola->Pangkongma->Kotezone
bcdate: 2007-10-15
smtdate: 2007-10-27
termdate: 2007-11-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6850m due to big crevasse too difficult to tackle, no fixed rope
campsites: BC(15/10,5400m),C1(21/10,6100m),C2(25/10,6350m),xxx(27/10,6850m)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  Van der Plas, Verburgh, Da Chhemba Sherpa and Ang Dorje left C2 at 5 am on 27 Oct. About 10 am they reached 6850m where they found a big crevasse on the ridge. There was no fixed rope and team did not have enough ropes to fix it; without fixing rope it was very difficult to go across the crevasse. The team decided to give up climbing and descended to BC. 

  Maltha went up to C1 on 21 Oct. She suffered from stomach problem and did not climb further.

  Peeters left expedition on 6 Oct from Tognag due to knee problem. 

  Timmermans went up to 5500m, got headache and descended to BC on 19 Oct.
   
  Van Berkesteijn went up to 6100m on 21 Oct. His legs became unbalanced not because of altitude but of a disease he has. He said the problem of imbalance occurred to him at sea level as well.

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 8 November and will leave on 11th.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Dorje Sherpa, 12-8-1968, Garima-5, Solu
    Da Chhemba Sherpa, (15-10-2024), Gudel-5, Solu, Everest 2003/UK, 
      2004/Tibet/Japanese 2007, Cho Oyu X2, Baruntse 2000 & 2003


expid: BARU07307
peakid: BARU
year: 2007
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Michal Brunner
sponsor: Czech Baruntse
countries: Slovakia
approach: Lukla->Tangnag->Mera La
bcdate: 2007-10-11
smtdate: 2007-10-18
termdate: 2007-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(11/10,5100m),C1(13-14/10,6120m),C2(18/10,6500m),xxx(6500m)
agency: Green Horizon Tours
routememo:
  Brunner, 3 members and Da Nuri reached C2 on 18 Oct and spent night there. Started snowfall and became windy. Then the team gave up. Next day to BC. 

  The team returned Kathmandu on 28 Oct and left around 4 November.

  Sherpa:
    Da Nuri Sherpa, (03-11-2043), Tallo Maidan, Jantarkhani-1, Okhaldhunga
      1st time on expedition peak


expid: BARU07308
peakid: BARU
year: 2007
route1: SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Arlette Gubert
sponsor: French Baruntse Team
approach: Lukla->Mera La
bcdate: 2007-10-17
smtdate: 2007-10-26
termdate: 2007-10-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to technical difficulty, no rope
campsites: BC(17/10,5450m),C1(24/10,6200m),C2(25/10,6400m),xxx(26/10,6900m)
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  High point team left C2 at 5:30 am on 26 Oct. Conditions and weather good. When they reached the mushroom at 9 am, they decided to turn back as the mushroom was too difficult. They did not have any ropes left. They descended to C1, where they arrived at 2 pm, stayed the night. 

  Gubert reached C1 on 20 Oct, but did not stay the night. She abandoned the climb as she did not think she could do it. She stayed at BC till 27 Oct; on 27 Oct she left BC for C1 to meet Semet and Phurba Cheden. From there they crossed the glacier and descended via East Col, from there they walked out to Tumlingtar.

  Sherpa:
    Phurba Cheden, Khumjung, 5/8/84, Everest North 2007 with Chinese (Khumbi La)


expid: CHKA07301
peakid: CHKA
year: 2007
route1: N Ridge-N Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Tamotsu Ohnishi
sponsor: Osaka Alpine Club West of Nepal Expedition
ascent1: 1st, 2nd
bcdate: 2007-09-19
smtdate: 2007-09-21
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2007-09-22
othersmts: Climbed Punchen North Smt (PUNC-073-01)
campsites: BC(19/09,4550m),C1(20/09,5703m),Smt(21-22/09)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Ohnishi's travels were divided into two parts. First, in September with the six other Japanese members, he went to Chamar Kang (aka locally as Kangtega), and then they all returned to Kathmandu. Here two members, Inaba and Tsuji, left the team and returned to Japan. In October, Ohnishi and the remaining four went to Punchen Himal.

  On 29 Aug the full team, including one Sherpa, Chhepa Sherpa, flew to Pokhara and next day took another flight to Jomsom. To acclimatize, they trekked for two weeks (Jomsom, Chharkagaon, Simengaon, Nisrargaon, Sheygaon and back to Chharka).

  Then to Chamar Kang, the north side of which is known locally as Kangtega and its south side as Chharka. According to the HMG map, it is 6060m high, but Ohnishi's GPS measurement is 6079m high.

  On 19 September they arrived at BC (4550m) on the Pangjang Khola for their attack on the mountain's north side (Kangtega) via its North Ridge. They pitched a high camp at 5703m on a col at the bottom of the North Ridge, and from it they summited in two parties. On 21 September Irisawa, Koichi Kato, Ohnishi and Chhepa Sherpa went to the top; they left high camp at 6:15 am. They climbed up the North Face, which was covered with snow and ice and was 45-55 degrees steep. They were on the summit at 2:00 pm, back in high camp at 3:30 pm and returned to BC at 7:10 pm. On the 22nd, Inaba, Irisawa (again), Mizutani and Chhepa (again) summited. Akira Kato remained in BC; he did not acclimatize well.

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 1 October. Tsuji, who had not acclimatizated well, now left Nepal to return to Japan, and Miss Inaba went with him. On the 7th the other members and Chhepa left Kathmandu by bus to Arughat Bazaar on the Buri Gandaki River to reach Punchen Himal.

  They went north along the Buri Gandaki past Tatopani, Philim and almost to Ngyak; at Ngyakbesi they went northeast following the Shyar Khola past Mu Gompa and on north to their Punchen BC at 4124m just north of Shyar Khola on 18 October.

  While Akira again stayed at BC, on the 19th the rest of party, Koichi Kato, Irisawa, Mizutani, Ohnishi and Chhepa, moved up to high camp at 4850m at the start of the NE Ridge. On 20 October, they climbed the ridge of rock with occasional covering of ice. At 5700m they joined the NW Face and fixed 250m of rope on the face as they climbed it and from 5900m up a rock and snow NW Ridge to Punchen North, a peak 5962m high.

  The way from here to the Main Summit (6049m) is a knife-edge ridge. They had left high camp at 5:10 am and reached the North Summit at 11:30 am. They made the route for three hours over this sharp sawtooth ridge, and at 2:30 pm they were at the same altitude as where they had started from the North Summit. The altitude difference between where they were and the Main Summit was only 50 meters, but the linear distance was 500 meters. The route was not very difficult, but they were very tired climbing over loose rock and unconsolidated snow.

  In their descent they took an easier route from 5700m via the snow-covered North Face to a small lake above high camp. They were back in high camp at 4:30 pm that day. On the 21st they returned to BC and left it on the 22nd for their journey to Kathmandu.

  During these travel, Ohnishi's fingers became numb from mild frostnip.

  Sherpa:
    Chhepa Sherpa, 29/10/83 (12/7/2040), Sotang-6, Solu, no 8000ers


expid: CHOY07361
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Fabrice Priez
sponsor: Expes.com to Cho Oyu
approach: Lhasa->Gyantse->Xigatse->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-09-05
smtdate: 2007-09-17
termdate: 2007-09-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to bad weather, high wind, no tents in C1
campsites: BC(05/09,5000m),ABC(08/09,5700m),C1(14/09,6400m),C2(17/09,7100m),xxx(17/09,7100m)
accidents: Tents were destroyed by snowfall and storm at C1
agency: Pemba Sherpa
routememo:
  On 24 Sept Dartique, Priez, Richer, Wymann and two Tibetans went to C1 to see if they could climb further. At midnight snowfall and storm started; spent night at C1 and next day went down to ABC. 

  On 29 Sept Millet, Priez, Thoreau and two Tibetans went to C1 and they found all four tents were destroyed by storm. Tents were not usable and things were scattered all over the place including food stuff. The team went back to ABC and gave up climbing. 

  The team returned Kathmandu on 1 October and will leave on 7 Oct.


expid: CHOY07362
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Carme Allve
sponsor: Expedicion Pla de l'Estany
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-09-08
smtdate: 2007-09-17
termdate: 2007-09-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to sickness of Aliu
campsites: BC(08/09,4800m),ABC(11/09,5600m),C1(16/09,6400m),C2(17/09,7000m),xxx(17/09,7000m)
accidents: Aliu got breathing problem (chest infection on 19 Sept at ABC)
agency: Annapurna Treks
routememo:
  Everything was going well except bad weather. First week of teams's arrival was good then three days white-out. The team was waiting for good weather. Aliu suffered from breathing problem and decided to call off expedition. Aliu, Allve and Combis went to Lhasa where Aliu was given oxygen. 

  The team returned Kathmandu from Lhasa on 30 Sept. Aliu was admitted to CIWEC Clinic and trying to leave as soon as possible. Pratribera came on 29 Sept via Kodari.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Sherpa, (2026 BS), Tamakhani-9, Loding, Everest X4
    Dendi Sherpa, (12-2-2031), Wakachol-9, Khotang, Pumori in 2004, 
      Everest in 2007/Tibet, Ama Dablam X4


expid: CHOY07363
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Guillermo Barbier
sponsor: Spanish Cho Oyu Expedition
countries: Peru
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-09-09
smtdate: 2007-10-03
termdate: 2007-10-07
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to very cold and high winds
campsites: BC(09/09,7700m),ABC(11/09,5760m),C1(15/09,6480m),C2(02/10,7080m),xxx(03/10,7700m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC at about CBC/IC on 10th at 5300m.

  On 2 Oct Amozarrain, Barbier, Garrido, Huarte, Perez, Urtasun and Zarzuelo left C2 at midnight (NST). Amozarrain, Barbier and Garrido got frostbite at C3 and they descended to ABC. Huarte and Urtasun turned around from 7500m due to coldness. Perez and Zarzuelo reached about 7700m, their feet started getting cold, so they went down to ABC. The weather was very cold and windy. 
  The team returned Kathmandu on 8 Oct and will leave on different dates. 

  Caballero went to C2 on 20 Sept and returned to ABC. He left ABC for Kathmandu on 29 Sept due to his work in Kathmandu.

accidents:
  1st degree frostbite in right toes of Amozarrain, toes of both feet of Barbier and Garrido on 3 Oct at C3


expid: CHOY07364
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Christophe Manfroi
sponsor: Independent on Cho Oyu
approach: Lhasa->Gyantse->Xigatse->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-09-05
smtdate: 2007-10-01
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2007-10-04
campsites: BC(05/09,5000m),ABC(08/09,5700m),C1(14/09,6430m),C2(17/09,7100m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Pemba Sherpa
routememo:
  Manfroi wrote in his email reply that he left C2 at 2 am NST on 1 Oct. He followed three Sherpas of Thamserku expedition and reached summit at 1 pm. Manfroi stayed on summit for one hour. He had a very beautiful landscape in front of him: Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse (magical). The summit weather was absolutely no clouds and no wind. Manfroi wrote that he was lucky. He descended to C2 at 6 pm and day to ABC. 

  Manfroi wrote in his eamil that during his climbing he met some people coming down but he did not talk to them as they had their oxygen mask on. Manfroi further wrote that he had frostbite in his right hand during acclimatization on 18 Sept. After leaving C2 alone, he had to stop because his gloves were humid. A Sherpa saw him and helped him by rubbing Manfroi's hands and gave his gloves to Manfroi and saved his fingers. 

  Manfroi returned Kathmandu on 5 Oct and left on 7 Oct.


expid: CHOY07365
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Bill Zachary
sponsor: Independent American on Cho Oyu 2007
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-09-02
smtdate: 2007-09-15
termdate: 2007-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m in early Oct due to bad weather
campsites: BC(02/09,4900m),ABC(09/09,5700m),C1(11/09,6400m),C2(15/09,7200m),xxx(15/09,7200m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Zachary said that he went to C1. Stayed one day, then back to ABC for two days rest. Went up to C1, two days rest, then to C2 on 15 Sept. Back to ABC. "Then started 13 days of disaster" - bad weather. 

  Zachary returned Kathmandu on 6 Oct and will leave on 7 Oct.


expid: CHOY07366
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Australia
leaders: Anthony (Tony) Olejnicki
sponsor: Independent Australian on Cho Oyu
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-09-03
smtdate: 2007-09-26
termdate: 2007-09-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(03/09,4800m),ABC(07/09,5700m),C1(12/09,6500m),C2(26/09,7100m),xxx(26/09,7100m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 6th Sept at 5300m
  C2 above the second serac.

  Olejnicki got up to C2 and due to storm and snow dump creating dangerous avalanche conditions he decided to give up climbing. 

  Olejnicki returned Kathmandu on 1 Oct and left on 2 Oct.


expid: CHOY07367
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: China
leaders: John Tsang
sponsor: Cho Oyu Expedition 2007
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2007-09-15
smtdate: 2007-10-01
smttime: 1314
campsites: BC(15/09,4800m),ABC(18/09,5700m),C1(22/09,7200m),Smt(01/10)
accidents: Tsang broke his leg in a fall after summit
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  Fan, Tsang, Pasang Dawa Sherpa, Lhakpa Chhiring Sherpa left C2 at 23:00 on 30 Sept. Tsang and Lhakpa reached summit at 13:14 on 1 Oct. Descended to C2 at 18:30. Fan turned around from 7900m to C2 with Pasang Dawa due to running out of energy. Tsang wrote in his email that weather was perfect, clear sky on the way up there was mild wind and strong wind at the top. He further wrote that at top there was high visibility and he could see Everest so close. Two climbers, Tsang added, ahead of him on that day were one Spanish "he thinks" and one was Japanese. Only 3 climbers summited on that day along with two Sherpas, one was his own Sherpa and another one was of the Japanese climber. The Spanish was by himself without using oxygen. According to email of Fan, Tsang and Lhakpa stayed on summit for 15 minutes. Also, Fang wrote that they did not sleep at C2 on their summit push, but only had a rest for 5 hours. The team went back to Hong Kong via Lhasa.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Tshering Sherpa, 15/6/75 (1/3/2032), Khumjung-3, Everest X4, Anna I X1
    Pasang Dawa Sherpa, 16/6/80, (3-3-2037), Khumjung-3

  Tsang's accident (according to Lhakpa Tshering): He slipped and fell.


  Tsang's Fall:

  According to Caorminas, member of Spanish Expedicio Cho Oyu Baix 2007 led by Gutierrez, it was around top of the first icefall around 6800m between C2 and C1. Corominas was ascending and was told by his leader that there has been an accident and met the Chinese (Tsang) and some people dragging him down. Corominas gave Tsang pain killer (injection) and suggested the people taking him down to make him to walk with help of Sherpas. Lhakpa Tshering's estimation of 6300m is not correct. How many meters...10-15 meters according to Lhakpa. The cause...Lhakpa said Tsang was tired and that may be the cause of his fall. Corominas heard from other climbers that Tsang was trying to sledge down on the slope and his crampon may have stuck some how and that cause the fall.

  Jeevan - 18/12/07


expid: DHA107301
peakid: DHA1
year: 2007
route1: NE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Hong-Bin
sponsor: 2007 Korea Dhaulagiri Expedition
approach: Beni->Marpha->Yak Kharka
bcdate: 2007-09-12
smtdate: 2007-10-14
termdate: 2007-10-18
termnote: Abandoned at 8020m due to deep snow and wind
campsites: BC(12/09,4700m),ABC(15/09,5300m),C1(16/09,5800m),C2(12/10,6800m),C3(13/10,7200m),xxx(14/10,8020m)
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal
routememo:
  Kim, Sanu and Mingma left C3 at 8 pm, reached 8020m at 12 noon of 15 Oct. It was windy, very strong wind. When they left at the beginning it was clear. Later during ascent it became cloudy and windy. They turned around to C3 at about 6:30 pm. Next day descended to C1. Descending was very difficult due to strong wind coming up from down below. There was waist-deep snow and strong wind while descending from C1 to BC and it took them about the same as of climbing from BC to C1. When the team left BC there were members of an international team at C2. 

  Kim said that Dhaulagiri is dangerous. The team tried to climb along the ridge instead of traversing the snow line, below the ridge. Kim said that he can see the summit from the point they turned around. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 18 Oct and will leave on 25 Oct. Miss Kim Kyoung-Ja left BC on 5 Oct, arrived Kathmandu on 7 Oct and left on 11 Oct due to her work back home.

  Kim may come in Spring for Makalu or Cho Oyu.

  Sherpas:
    Sanu Sherpa, 30/4/75, Walung, Yaphu-9, Cho Oyu 2006, Everest 16/5/2007 with Kim
    Mingma Tenzi, 25/10/84 (22/7/2041), Yaphu-9, Lhotse 4/5/07 and Everest 16/5/07


expid: DHA107302
peakid: DHA1
year: 2007
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Ruben Jimenez
sponsor: Homenaje Ricardo Valendica-Santiago Sagaste to Dhaulagiri 2007
approach: Beni->Dovan->Bagar->Italian Camp->Japanese Camp
bcdate: 2007-10-15
smtdate: 2007-10-15
termdate: 2007-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 4700m due to lots of snow
campsites: BC(15/10,4700m),xxx(15/10,4700m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  The team did not go beyond BC due to deep snow conditions. Inaki Ochoa was suppose to join the team but he did not come. Ochoa called Jimenez from Marpha and told him there lots of snow so Ochoa could not reach BC. The team returned Kathmandu on 3 Nov and will leave on 6 Nov.

  Purpose of expedition was to find the books of Santiago Sagaste and Ricardo Valencia, who were killed by an avalanche in May 2007 at C2, but not to remove Valencia's, but perhaps to send home Sagaste's.


expid: DHA107303
peakid: DHA1
year: 2007
route1: NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Noel Urban
sponsor: Jean-Noel Urban Dhaulagiri Expedition
countries: Netherlands
bcdate: 2007-09-17
smtdate: 2007-10-04
termdate: 2007-10-09
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to dangerous snow conditions
campsites: BC(17/09,4700m),C1(21/09,5800m),xxx(04/10,6300m)
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  Jean-Noel Urban Dhaulagiri Expedition - 15 Oct 2007

  After pitching C1 at 5800m on 21 September, they went down to BC on 22nd, but back up to C1 on the 24th. A big storm blew up on the 25th with wind and snow. They stayed in camp that day but on the 26th descended to BC in the storm; when they traversed under the rocks, there was serious danger of a large snow avalanche.

  During the next days there was heavy snowfall, but 3 October there was "beautiful weather" and they returned to C1. The next day they tried to go up to C2, but at 6200m they found the snow was very deep and unstable, so back to C2. On the 5th they remained in C1 hoping to go up again, but there was more snowfall.

  On the 6th they tried to go down to BC, but there was dense fog and with crevasses full of snow, they stopped at 5000m because it was too dangerous to continue to go down. They left some of their gear at 5000m so they could go back to C1 with light loads. They were finally able to descend safely to BC on the 8th.

  There was now a lot of snow on the mountain at high altitudes; it would be too dangerous for days to try to go up again. They abandoned the climb on the 8th.


expid: DHA107304
peakid: DHA1
year: 2007
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Slovakia
leaders: Josef Kopold
sponsor: Slovakia & Poland to Dhaulagiri
countries: Poland
bcdate: 2007-09-23
smtdate: 2007-10-14
termdate: 2007-10-18
termnote: Abandoned at 8076m (fore-summit) due to heavy snowfall
campsites: BC(23/09,4770m),C1(03/10,5770m),C2(12/10,6530m),C3(13/10,7200m),ForeSmt(14/10,8076m)
agency: Nepal Trans Himalayan Explorer
routememo:
  High point at 8076m false summit on NE Ridge.

  Both left BC for summit push 10 Oct; in C1 stayed 2 nights because of snowfall; C2 on 12th; C3 on 13th. 14th left C3 at 10:45 am and at 11:30 am reached false summit on ridge with pole. Started snowing and wind blowing, so down to C3. Next day down from BC, but weather prevented reaching BC so bivouaced at 5360m at 6:00-7:00 pm. 16th at BC 5:00 pm. No snow at BC on arrival, 1.60 m on departure. Avalanching between BC and C1, but not hit, only pressure felt.


expid: DHA107305
peakid: DHA1
year: 2007
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Sweden
leaders: Frederic Ericsson
sponsor: Swede on Dhaulagiri I
bcdate: 2007-09-12
smtdate: 2007-10-14
termdate: 2007-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to deep snow and he was tired
campsites: BC(12/09,4650m),C1(15/09,5700m),C2(21/09,6500m),C3(13/10,7200m),xxx(14/10,7400m)
achievment: Longest partial ski descent
agency: Loben Expeditions
routememo:
  C1 just below Col
  C2 on NE Ridge
  C3 on NE Ridge
  High point on NE Ridge.

  22nd Sept went up to 6900m from C2 to acclimatize and back to C2. 23rd to BC to rest. Heavy snowfall from 23rd night to 25th; Ericsson stayed in BC waiting for snow to stop falling and avalanche danger to pass. 2nd Oct up to C1, rested on 3rd, 4th up to 6200m, turned back because again snowfall and down to BC again to wait for storm to end. Up once more on 10th to C1, stayed on extra night because snowing again. 12th to C2 and 13th to C3. Actually there were no fixed camps; he had only one tent which he carried up and down. 14th he made bid for summit; got to about 7400m, but now snow was knee-deep and unstable, so too dangerous to continue. Began his ski descent from here and skied all the way to BC; he stopped at 7200m to pack up his tent but kept his skis on. It was snowing at 6700-6800m and small avalanches were coming down. At the icefall, he skied down the left side of crevasses. Got slightly lost in the dark at about 6:00 pm and went too close to crevasse and had to walk (on skis) up about 50m to find his track and on down to BC at 9:00 pm. Climb now finished. His permit expired on 15th and "I was tired." Climbed sometimes with members of other teams but had no one with him; he originally had a team-mates who dropped out last summer. He wants to come again next year to Dhaulagiri I with a team-mate.


expid: DHA107306
peakid: DHA1
year: 2007
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Mitsuyoshi Nakamura
sponsor: Tokushima Dhaulagiri Expedition 2007
bcdate: 2007-09-03
smtdate: 2007-09-18
termdate: 2007-10-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to too much snow
campsites: BC(03/09,4500m),C1(11/09,4900m),C2(13/09,5600m),xxx(18/09,6400m)
agency: Bochi Bochi Treks
routememo:
  On 13 Sept team reached C2 in good conditions and good weather. They stayed 2 nights and descended to BC on 15 Sept. On 17 Sept high-point team ascended to C2 again in good conditions. It took them 10 hours. On 18 Sept they left C3 at 8 am and got to C3 6 hours later. They pitched C3 and descended to C2 to sleep. On 19 Sept high-point team intended to ascend and sleep at C3 but weather turned bad. They got to 5800m and turned back and descended to BC. They stayed there till 21 Sept as it was snowing everyday. It snowed about 2 meters at BC. On 24 Sept they wanted to go back to C2 but avalanches danger was too high.

  Isao Nakamura got to 6100m on 18 Sept; he turned back due to exhaustion. 

  Nakamura Mitsuyoshi got to C2 on 13 Sept; he could not carry on as his right foot was hurting as his boots were too small; he also had problems with cold.

  Sherpas:
    Pema Chhiri, Sankhuwasabha, Makalu village, Everest 3 or 4 times
    Dawa Wangchu, Sankhuwasabha, Makalu village, Everest 3 or 4 times
    Man Bahadur Gurung, Sankhuwasabha, Sitalpati, no Everest summit, Cho Oyu X5
    Hasta Bahadur Gurung, Sankhuwasabha, Sitalpati, Dhaulagiri I
    Loke Bahadur Gurung, Sankhuwasabha, Sitalpati, no Everest, Cho Oyu
    Bir Bahadur Gurung, Tanahun district, Manaslu


expid: DHA107307
peakid: DHA1
year: 2007
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Andreas Neuschmid
sponsor: Amical Alpin Dhaulagiri I Expedition 2007
countries: Netherlands
approach: Beni->Marpha
bcdate: 2007-09-10
smtdate: 2007-09-19
termdate: 2007-10-09
termnote: Abandoned at 6950m due too much snow
campsites: BC(10/09,4620m),C1(15/09,5700m),C2(18/09,6500m),xxx(19/09,6950m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Rai)
routememo:
  On 19 Sept Van Hoek left C2 at 8 am on 19 Sept. He went on his own as rest of team decided that they should go down as it was acclimatization trip. He stopped at 6950m where Japanese fixed line stopped. He descended to C2, where Klerkx, Neuschmid and Nousig were waiting. They descended to BC together. The weather was good on 19 Sept. On 20 Sept it started snowing and did not stop for 6 days.

  On 29 Sept Van Hoek, Klerkx, Neuschmid and Nousig ascended to C1 and stayed for 3 nights. During that period the weather was unstable and attempts to reach C2 failed due to avalanche danger and bad weather. On 1 Oct they descended to BC. They dismantled camp and took their gear down. They never tried another summit push due to the bad weather.

  Scheiber got to BC on 10 Sept. He had a flu and descended to Marpha on 11 Sept. He never went back to BC but returned to Kathmandu.

  Wieser did not feel well and turned back on way to BC on 10 Sept. He wanted to go to Marpha and get rid of his cold but never returned to BC.


expid: DHA207301
peakid: DHA2
year: 2007
route1: S Face-E Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Pawel Garwolinski
sponsor: Polish Dhaulagiri II Expedition
approach: Myagdi Khola & North to Pakabu (the river's source)
bcdate: 2007-09-18
smtdate: 2007-10-10
termdate: 2007-10-14
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to frequent snowfall
campsites: BC(18/09,3700m),C1(21/09,4700m),C2(22/09,5200m),C3(06/10,5600m),xxx(10/10,6700m)
accidents: Porter died; no member problems
agency: Ang Rita Treks
routememo:
  C1 at southeast corner of Tsaurabong Glacier
  C2 on the glacier
  C3 on the glacier
  High point at junction of South Face and East Ridge.

  22nd Sept down to BC from C2 established by Pawlowski and Stepien. 23 Sept same two plus Wojas & Garwolinski up to C1. 24 Sept Garwolinski down to BC because weather bad while others stayed in C1 hoping to go up nad then difficult to descend in snow and rain. 26 Sept rock avalanche at BC one night and had to move to Italian BC at 3660m for 3 days, then when rain stopped on 30th moved back to original BC. 1 Oct Garwolinski, Jurewicz and Pawlowski up from BC to C1 while Sklodowska and Stepien up from C2 to see how route was up to C2; went 200m fixed rope on serac and above it on rock and back to C1. 3 days now to carry loads to C2 and all members slept in C2 4 Oct. 5 Oct carried loads to C3 which was 3 km from C2. All slept in C3 on 6 Oct. Weather deteriorating again. Stepien, Wojas and Sklodowska on 7th climbed 300m above C3 but snowfall began and down to C3. 8th in C3; Garwolinski, Jurewicz and Pawlowski up 100m and snowfall and clouds sent them back to C3. 9th same trio and Wojas down to C1. Decided expedition finished and took much of gear; other two up and 10th to 6700m; now snowing and in clouds, so back to C3 while rest of them to BC. All in BC on 11 Oct. 12th cleared camps. Just above BC small river needed a ladder to cross it.

  Farman Tamang, 26, from Nuwakot, was killed by rock in landslide on 20 Sept while returning to Kathmandu after carrying loads to BC.


expid: DROM07301
peakid: DROM
year: 2007
route1: SE Face-Middle Smt
route2: S Face-East Smt
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Tone Skarja
sponsor: Slovenian Kangbachen Expedition
approach: Taplejung->Ghunsa->Ramtang Glacier->Pangpema
bcdate: 2007-10-09
smtdate: 2007-10-16
termdate: 2007-10-28
campsites: BC(09/10,4940m),Middle Smt(16/10,6855m);Biv1(24/10,5900m),E Smt(25/10,6695m)
agency: Wilderness Experience
primid: KANB07301
othersmts:
  Recon Kangbachen (KANB-073-01), climbed Pathibhara Chuli (PYRM-073-01), attempted Kirat Chuli (KIRA-073-01) and Ramtang Chang (RAMC-073-01)

routememo:
  Slovenian Kangbachen Expedition  - 7 November 2007

  (Useful maps: Nepal Map "Trekking Around Kangchenjunga" and HMG map "Jhinsan Peak" sheet No. 2788-01)

  The expedition attacked the following peaks:

  1. Unnamed peak (6630m/21,172 ft) north of Pangpema, west of Pathibhara Chuli.

  2. Drohmo (6881m/22,575 ft) north of Pangpema, west of Pathibhara Chuli.

  3. Pathibhara Chuli, aka Pyramid Peak, (7140m/23,425 ft) on Tibetan border north of Kirat Chuli.

  4. Kirat Chuli, aka Tent Peak, (7362m/24,154 ft) south of Kangchenjunga Glacier, southwest of Pangpema, northwest of Ramtang Peak.

  5. Ramtang Chang, aka Chang Himal or Wedge Peak, (6802m/22,316 ft) south of Kangchenjunga Glacier, southwest of Pangpema, northwest of Ramtang Peak.

  The expedition planned to attempt Kangbachen or failing that, Kirat Chuli. Their approach march was from Taplejung up Tamur River to Ghunsa Khola past Ramtang village to the opening of the Ramtang Glacier.

  On 8 October, they went two kilometers east-southeast up the Ramtang Glacier and found a big lake and rock falling off of the ridges to their left and right. Beyond the lake, the terrain was very rocky, and they decided to forget about Kangbachen.

  On the 9th, they went back to the mouth of the Ramtang Glacier, continued up the Ghunsa Khola to Lhonak and east on north side of the Kangchenjunga Glacier to Pangpema, where they made their BC at 4940m for Kirat Chuli.

  On the 11th, they made an acclimatization trek north of Pangpema. On the 14th-16th, more acclimatization to an unnamed 6630m peak: Lorencic and Valic summited it via its SW Ridge on the 16th.

  Next the 6855m middle summit of Drohmo was attacked by Cuder and Kladnik via its SE Face, which was bare rock at the foot but higher up it was all ice and 60 degrees steep. They reached this summit on 16 October.

  On 21 October they began their final reconnaissance of Kirat Chuli. Cuder and Kladnik, with a Sherpa carry, put up tents for ABC at 5600m to attack the mountain's West Face via the same route unsuccessfully attempted by Slovenian team in autumn 2000 and autumn 2002. On the 22nd they went to 5800m to the bottom of the face, and stopped there. On their return to BC, they reported that the route was impossible: there was knee-deep snow and avalanching. The decision was taken not to try to climb Kirat Chuli.

  At the same time Lorencic and Valic went east from Pangpema on 21 October into the West Kangpo Glacier for a climb of Pathibhara Chuli by its SW Face. They bivouacked that day at 6900m below the rock step. On the 24th they reached the summit up the 1100m high face, then 60 degrees of mixed rock, ice and snow. They descended to 5600m that day and on the 25th were back in Pangpema BC.

  Meanwhile Kozelj and Sorn attacked Ramtang Chang, which is across the Kangchenjunga Glacier from Pangpema (i.e., it is on the south side). On the 21st they bivouacked at 5600m. On the next day they climbed to 6700m up the 70-degree North Face, which was rock covered by soft snow. Because of the poor snow condition, they abandoned the climb and returned to BC the same day.

  Now back to Drohmo. Kladnik, Kozelj and Sorn climbed the East Peak (6695m). On 24 October they bivouacked at 5900m and on the 25th they scaled its 900m South Face of mixed rock, ice and snow, at places 60 degrees steep. They were on the summit and returned to BC that day.

  They had now finished their climbing, and they left BC on the 28th to return to Kathmandu.

  Skarja observed that the glaciers in this area were very difficult from the Nepalese side of the border mountains, not such a big problem on the Sikkimese/Indian side but dangerous.


expid: EVER07301
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Thailand
leaders: Pinyo Rungroung
sponsor: TITV Everest - The Unlimited Spirit of Thailand
bcdate: 2007-09-22
smtdate: 2007-11-06
termdate: 2007-11-11
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to fierce wind
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(22/09,5300m),C1(11/10,6000m),C2(21/10,6900m),C3(05/11,7200m),C4(06/11,7900m),xxx(06/11,c8000m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Rai)
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in West Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col
  High point just above C4.

  TITV Everest from Thailand - 15 Nov 2007

  Expedition consisted of nine climbing members and seven television personnel (editors, reporters, producer, etc), plus one doctor and one nurse at BC. They were aided by nine climbing Sherpas and three Sherpa "instructors." Three other Sherpas from the SPCC (Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee) were the so called Icefall doctors assigned to keep the Khumbu Icefall route open.

  Before attempting Everest, the team went to Island Peak. On 19 October nine members reached its summit: Chancharoen, Jitnom, Kimjun, Jongyindee, Pinengam, Rungroung, Sorn-Ek, Sinthuvong and Tamaipuan; Koonphol, Mangkang, Petratanamuree, Poosee and Yimdee got almost to the summit, but had to turn back because of headaches caused by high altitude.

  Then to Everest, where their BC had been established on 22 September and C1 on 11 October. Besides the climbing members, BC was occupied by the television personnel.

  In the push for the summit, Kimjun and Pinengam plus nine Sherpas reached C4 at the South Col on 6 November. They planned to make their summit attempt the next day. But when they got to the Col, their sirdar Pasang told them that since the wind at that time was not very strong, this was the time to make a bid for the summit. So one member Pinengam set out for the top at 6:00 pm with Lama Babu Sherpa. They managed to climb only about 100m above the col when 100 km/hr wind slammed them against a large stone. They were not hurt, but they immediately abandoned their summit attempt and returned to C4.

  At 9:00 the next day, the party in C4 descended to C2 and the climb was over. Sirdar Pasang said the winds had now become too strong to make any further summit attempts. They could see the snow plume blowing off the summit, and the noise of the wind sounded like a jet airplane.

  Oxygen: All members and Sherpas used in C3, to their high points and down to C2. Also used by Petratanamuree at BC when he got a blood clot on the brain on 16 October and had to leave BC by helicopter.

  Member's high points on Everest:
    Chancharoen reached C2, but had a lung problem, had difficulty breathing even 
      at BC; he left the expedition on 4 Nov.
    Chulapha did not go above BC.
    Jitnnom did not go above BC and left expedition on 26 September to resume work
      in Thailand.
    Kimjun reached C4.
    Jongyindee got to C2 but was not strong enough to go higher.
    Koonphol did not go above BC and left on 26 September for work in Bangkok.
    Mangkang stayed in BC.
    Petratanamuree did not go above BC and left on 15 Oct because of a blood clot 
      (see above under oxygen use).
    Pinengam got perhaps 100m above C4 in summit push (see above).
    Poosee stayed in BC.
    Rungroung went to C2.
    Sinthuvong reached C2 but not strong enough to go higher.
    Sorn-Ek reached C2, then became sick. 
    Tamjaipuan reached the Geneva Spur on 6th November on his way to C4 with 
      summit party.
    Wisessombat stayed in BC.
    Yimdee climbed on the Lhotse Face towards C3 but turned back at 7000m because 
      he was not well.

  Sherpas:
    Lama Babu Sherpa, 23/9/68, Cheremy, Bung, Solu, Everest X3
    Pasang Sherpa, 11/8/75, Jiri-7, Everest 30/5/05

accidents:
  Only serious health problems were Petraranamuree's blood cloth and perhaps Chancharoen's lung problem


expid: FANG07301
peakid: FANG
year: 2007
route1: E Face-S Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Hong Sung-Wook
sponsor: For Our Friend Korea Annapurna Fang Expedition
ascent1: 2nd
approach: Pokhara->Machhapuchhare BC->South Annapurna BC
bcdate: 2007-09-13
smtdate: 2007-10-29
smttime: 1341
termdate: 2007-11-30
accidents: Park Bong-Ha's fall; five Sherpa's frostbite and You's frostbite
agency: Windhorse Trekking
campsites:
  BC(13/09,4600m),C1(30/09,5500m),C2(02/10,6045m),C3(07/10,6500m),C4(12/10,6880m),C5(14/10,7250m),Smt(29/10)

routememo:
  BC at start of west face of South Ridge
  C1 at snowfield above icefall
  C3 on SE Ridge
  C4 on west side of South Ridge
  C5 on South Ridge.

  Korea Annapurna Fang Expedition led by Hong Seong-Uk - 8 November 2007

  The distance from BC at 4600m at the bottom of the West Face of the South Ridge, was four km, and there were many deep crevasses to the right of an icefall. They climbed the icefall, where it was necessary to use ladders to reach its top. At the top, they pitched C1 on a snowfield at 5500m on 30 September.

  They made C2 on 2 October about half way up the mixed snow and rock of the face to the South Ridge. The South Ridge was very windy and had many seracs. They pitched C3's six tents on the ridge on a large cornice. One tent was broken by the collapse of a serac, so they brought up a new tent and put it also on the ridge.

  The whole ridge was a series of big sawteeth and quite difficult to make progress along. From C3, they moved a short distance over onto the ridge's west side, which was ice or crusted snow and bivouacked just below the ridge at about 6750m on 11 October. The next day they established C4 at 6880m on this side of the ridge and C5 was pitched on the 12th at 7250m on the ridge itself.

  The team's first summit bid was made in very cold and windy weather from C5 on the 17th by Park Soo-Seok, You Hyun-Jong, Wangdi and Tshering Dorje. They got to only 7500m where their supply of rope and snowbars became exhausted and they retreated to C4. On the 18th the two members descended to C4, two Sherpas to BC. Next day the members were in C1, and on the 20th they also were in BC.

  During this period, frostbite was becoming a serious problem. You's fingers and toes were badly frostbitten (black and shrivelled), which was the reason he and Park Soo-Seok took time to descend to BC. Five Sherpas high on the mountain became frostbitten on the 15th and 16th.

  The second summit attempt was launched on 22 October by a larger number of members without Sherpas: Kim, Lee Hak-Young, Lee Jong-Heon, Park Bong-Ha and Seo took part in this bid from BC and reached C1. Kim, Lee Hak-Young and Seo went to C2 the next day. On the 24th, Park Bong-Ha came up from C1 and joined Lee Hak-Young and Seo in a push towards C3.

  But at 7:20 pm, in moonlight, just below C3, Park fell. There was a strong wind blowing and Park lost his balance, his jumar came open, and he fell 300 meters down the west side of the ridge. Lee Hak-Young and Seo climbed down to him with considerable difficulty: Seo reached him at 8:30 pm and Lee bringing essential items including food and sleeping bag, joined them at 11:15 pm. Seo and Lee dug a small snow cave and helped Park into it while they had to remain outside for lack of space inside.

  Park Bong-Ha remained in the snow cave for six days; on the 25 Oct three Sherpas brought up a tent to shelter those staying outside looking after him. During the first three days, Park's right eye was swollen shut and he couldn't move; his knees and left shoulder were injured. (By 8th November, he still couldn't straighten his left leg or raise his left arm all the way up). After six days, on the 30th, two members and a Sherpa short roped him and helped him up onto the ridge and down to C1.

  Meanwhile the third summit bid had gotten under way. On the 28th, Park Soo-Seok, Wangdi and Tshering Dorje had climbed from C3 to C5, and on the 29th at 7:30 am they left C5 for the top. They were on the summit at 1:41 pm and back in C5 about 5:30 pm shortly before dark. On the 30th Park Soo-Seok and Wangdi descended to C2 while Tshering Dorje went all the way down to BC; Park and Wangdi were in BC the following day: the climb was over. All other members were also in BC on the 31st.

  Fixed rope: A total of 6600m were fixed intermittently from BC to summit. All of the route from C1 to C4 was fixed.

  Some non-summiting members
    Hong, the leader, went to C1 only
    Park Hong-Ki reached 7200m, then developed knee problem
    Song Ill-Ho got to C4, left 20 October because he had to go back to Korea
    You Hyun-Jong left 27 October with frostbitten fingers

  Sherpa summiters:
    Tshering Dorje, 22/11/81, Mamerku, Chheskam-2, Solu, no 8000ers
    Wangdi, 25/11/77, Mamerku, Chheskam-2, Solu, no 8000ers


expid: NUPK05301
peakid: NUPK
year: 2005
route1: S Face
nation: China
leaders: Ci Luo, Da Gombu Sherpa
sponsor: 2005 China-Nepal Friendship Expedition
ascent1: 2nd,3rd?
countries: Nepal
approach: Tingri->Nangpa La
bcdate: 2005-09-26
smtdate: 2005-10-01
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2005-10-03
campsites: BC(26/09,4900m),ABC(29/09,5355m),Smt(01-02/10)
agency: None
routememo:
  BC  near Nangpa La on Chinese side
  ABC near Nangpa La.

  2005 China-Nepal Friendship Expedition - Autumn 2005 led by Ci Luo and Da Gombu Sherpa

  The Chinese invited the Nepal Mountaineering Association in 2005 to participate in a joint expedition to an "unclimbed peak located at 86.61 N and 28.10 E rising 6592 meters above the sea level. It is on the border between China and Nepal. This expedition will climb from China side."

  The NMA sent ten Nepalse climbers, all Sherpas, under the leadership of Da Gombu Sherpa of Bung. The Chinese contingent consisted of six Han Chinese and eight Tibetans; all were considered to be members -- no hired Sherpas or Tibetans.

  The mountain is not on the Nepalese tourism ministry list of permitted peaks, so there is no official Nepalese government altitude. According to the HMG/Finnish map Sheet No. 2886-15 "Pasang Lhamu Chuli," there is a mountain on the Tibetan border at about the longitude and latitude given by the Chinese and is given as 6576 meters high. Tamotsu Ohnishi's July 2004 Khumbu map shows one summit, but it actually has two summits; the east one is the higher one, while the west one is perhaps 50 meters lower. They are impressively visible from nearby Cho Oyu. The two maps give it no name: there is no known local name, so the expedition dubbed it Friendship Peak.

  The Nepalese members approach was via Zangmu and Tingri to a Chinese base camp for the area of Cho Oyu very near the Nangpa La -- southeast of the pass, half an hour's walk away at 4900m, where the Nepalese and Chinese members met on 26 September. The joint expedition made their ABC at 5355m near the Nangpa La on 29 September and from here they climbed the South Face of the main (east) summit close to its East Ridge (which is rather rounded, not a sharp ridge).

  They went to the top from ABC in two parties in one day each. The face presented no serious difficulties, but 250 meters of rope were fixed from 5900m to 6000m up the 60-65 degree snow and ice slope.

  The first summit party left ABC on 1 November at 4:30 am Nepalese time, were on the top at 9:30 am and back in ABC at 11:30 am. 

  The second party's members were older. They left ABC at 4:00 am, reached the top at 10:15 am, and returned to ABC at 2:00 pm. after having spent time taking a lot of pictures in and around the Nangpa La.

  Chinese Summiters:

  1 October:
    Lho Tu
    Sun Bin
    Zhou Xiang

  2 October:
    Ci Luo, 3/7/78, Lhasa, Everest 24/5/98.
    Li Fuging
    Wang Yong-Feng, 23/12/63, Beijing, Everest 5/5/93

  Tibetan summiters:

  1 October:
    Degin Ozhu [Dechen Ngodup]
    Qimi Tashi/Chimi Tashi
    Tshering Dunzhu/Tshering Thendup
    Tshering Sangzhu [aka Ms. Tsering Wangmu?]

  2 October:
    Awang Tashi/Ngawang Tashi, 1983, Tashi Zom
    Luobu Zhandui [Norbu Dhendup]
    Nawang Lubu [Ngawang Norbu]
    Nima Tshering [Nima Ciren], Everest 21/5/03?

  Nepalese summiters:

  1 October:
    Lam/Lama Babu Sherpa, 29/9/68, Cheremy, Bung, Solu, Everest X3
    Lhakpa Sherpa, 28/7/72, Khijiphalate-2, Okhaldhunga, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Mingma (Dorje) Sherpa, 1/10/77, Thamo, Everest X2
    Pemba Dorje Sherpa, 29/4/77, Beding, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1
    Tashi Sherpa, 18/4/79, Beding, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1

  2 October:
    Chewang Dorje Sherpa, Ang Rita's son, 18/7/75, Thami, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X1
    Da Gombu Sherpa, 9/7/58, Cheremy, Bung-9, Solu, Cho Oyu X1, Dhaulagiri X1
    Dorje Sherpa, 22/6/70 (8/3/2027), Tapting-9
    Kishor Shahi, 4/8/74, Kathmandu, outdoor adventure company owner, no 8000ers
       (trekking peaks only)
    Krishna Bahadur Tamang, aka Jeta, 25/9/68, Kanku, Solu, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2


expid: NUPK07301
peakid: NUPK
year: 2007
route1: W Ridge-W Smt
nation: USA
leaders: Dan McCann
sponsor: American Satori Expedition
approach: Namche Bazar->Thami->Nangpa La BC
bcdate: 2007-09-15
smtdate: 2007-09-23
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2007-09-26
othersmts: Attempted Jasemba Goth (6730m)
campsites: BC(15/09,5500m),W Smt(23/09,6540m)
agency: World Records Expeditions
routememo:
  BC at 400m west from base of Jasemba Goth (6730m)
  High point at 6540m West Summit of Friendship Peak [Nupche Kang].

  Even though team had permit for Pasang Lhamu Chuli they never really intended to climb it. McCann was on Cho Oyu in autumn 2005 and when he saw Friendship Peak he knew he wanted to ski it one day so that was the real goal (he saw the China-Nepal team on it). On 15 Sept team established BC just below Jasemba Goth. On 16 Sept McCann climbed an unnamed peak (6228m) west of the Nangpa La. He started from BC at 9:30 am and summited at 2 pm. He skied ("skinned") up the lower part of the mountain. The weather was good and skiing conditions perfect. He skied back to BC in 45 minutes. Merrill and Reddish climbed up to 5850m that day and skied down. McCann summited the same peak on 18 Sept, 20 Sept and 21 Sept. Each time he climbed and skied the West Face apart from 21 Sept when he climbed ad skied the East Face together with Reddish.

  On 19 Sept McCann climbed up the cwm between Jasemba Goth and Friendship Peak. He reached about 6000m and skied down.

  On 22 Sept McCann climbed West Ridge of Jasemba Goth. He reached 6500m but stopped there as he was exhausted. He had spent about one hour trying to put in an ice screw for self-belay, which was hard work and exhausted him. He had left BC at 6:30 am. There was fresh snow and skiing conditions were fantastic. He reached high point at 9:45 am and skied back to BC in 1 hour and 45 minutes. Reddish and Merrill had a rest day on 22 Sept.

  On 23 Sept the whole team tackled Friendship Peak. They left BC at 6:30 am. McCann summited at 11 am, Merrill at 3:30 pm. Reddish got to 6050m but turned back as weather was deteriorating. He skied from high point at about 1 am and got to BC at 1:30 am. McCann skied down, however, the first 400m were a complete white-out; visibility was about 4 meters. He got back down to Nangpa La at 11:45 am and waited there for a while and watched Merrill.

  On 24 Sept McCann climbed another 6136m peak west of BC (opposite Jasemba). He reached about 5900m on the North Face and skied down.

  Team skied down all the way on all descents.

  McCann estimated Friendship Peak altitude at 6600m
  Ohnishi's map says 6676m
  HMG-Finnish map 6576m.
  Chinese in 2005 said 6592m.


expid: GAN507301
peakid: GAN5
year: 2007
route1: E Ridge-E Smt from south
nation: France
leaders: Mathieu Maynadier
sponsor: Ganesh V Expedition
approach: See route details
bcdate: 2007-10-26
smtdate: 2007-11-15
termdate: 2007-11-17
termnote: Abandoned at East Summit due to forecast of strong wind (it did become very strong)
agency: Trinetra Adventure
campsites:
  BC(26/10,4051m),C1(01/11,5500m),Biv1(12/11,6050m),Biv2(13/11,6300m),Biv3(14/11,6508m),xxx(15/11,6741m)

routememo:
  Approach: Bus to Sundarijal, Saribesi->Tatopani->Jungle Kharka on Bharrange Khola.

  Ganesh V Expedition led by Mathieu Maynadier - 20 Nov 2007

  The team began their approach to the mountain by taking a bus to Sundarijal in the northeast of the Kathmandu Valley and from there trekking to Saribesi, Tatopani, Jungle Kharka on the Bharrange Khola, then northwest along the khola. On 26 October they arrived at their BC at 4051m (near point 4064m on HMG's Ganesh Himal map, sheet No 2885-09), northeast of Paldor and south-southwest of Ganesh V.

  Then they moved north to Pt 4700m on HMG's map, which is near the eastern end of the East Ridge, and pitched C1 at 5500m at the start of the East Ridge on 1 Nov.

  From C1 the four members moved up the East Ridge and made a series of bivouacs at 6050m on the 12th, 6300m on the 13th, and 6508m on the 14th. On the 15th, they arrived at the East Summit (6741m) from their third bivouac, which they had left at 9:00 am and to which they returned at 9:30 pm.

  The ridge from a pass (which they reached at 4:00 pm) on their way to the East Summit was the most technical part of their climb on 100m of mixed ice and rock and 200m of rock only.

  They did not go on to the Main Summit because the weather report received from France had forecast strong wind, and it did become very strong (90-100 km/hr) during their descent to the third bivouac.

  On the 16th, they left the third bivouac at 9:00 am and were back in BC at 10:30 pm that day.

  All four members fingertips became numb from the cold.

  They fixed only 60m of rope on the mountain, between C1 and their first bivouac.


expid: GAUG07301
peakid: GAUG
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Lithuania
leaders: Seda Bukauskiene
sponsor: Lithuanians to Gaugiri
approach: Bus to Pokhara->flight to Jomsom->Kagbeni->Chusang->Chharang->Yara
termnote: Abandoned due to heavy snowfall while approaching to BC
agency: Lhakpa Sherpa
routememo:
  The team arrived Yara on 14 Oct. The day was clear, but at about 3 pm started raining and suddenly it was dark. Heavy clouds covered the whole area and visibility was very low. Next day they decided to go to Lo Manthang. In Lo Manthang it was winter snow all over. The team gave up the climbing and returned Kathmandu on 20 October and will leave on 21 Oct.


expid: GURK07301
peakid: GURK
year: 2007
route1: W Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
sponsor: French Langtang Ri Expedition
ascent1: 1st
approach: See route details
bcdate: 2007-10-20
smtdate: 2007-11-01
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2007-11-03
othersmts: Intended Langtang Ri
campsites: BC(20/10,4650m),C1(22/10,4800m),C2(24/10),C3(27/10,5800m),C4(30/10,6200m),Smt(01/11)
agency: Adventure 6000
routememo:
  Approach: Bus to Syabrubesi->Langtang Khola->Kyanjin Kharka->Langtang Tsang Glacier.

  French Langtang Ri Expedition (actually climbed Gurkarpo Ri) - 9 Nov 2007

  Team had permission to climb Langtang Ri, and they sat out on their approach march to do so. From their bus to Syabrubesi, they trekked east along the Langtang Khola to Langtang village, Kyanjin Kharka, Langshisa Kharka and Pembthang to Langtang Tsang Glacier. But the glacier was extremely uneven black ice strewn with rocks covered by a thin coating of snow. It was too difficult for porters who were not experienced trekkers or climbers; the team's leader Paulo Grobel decided on 20 October they had to abandon plans to climb Langtang Ri.

  They went back to Pembthang that day, and it became their BC at 4650m for an alternative mountain, Gurkarpo Ri. From Pemthang they crossed to the east side of the Langtang Tsang Glacier and entered the unnamed glacier leading eastward to northwest face to Gurkarpo Ri.  They made C1 on the glacier at 4800m on 22 October and C2 on the 24th on the wide upper part of the glacier. On the 25th Grobel and Chhotemba Sherpa climbed to 5886m at the top of the first step of the West Ridge and back to C2 in five hours. Next day, Dupuy, Kia, Males and Revest made the same trip (they dubbed it the "arete des repiettes" or arete of the lizards, because it is a flat top where one can bask in the sun lika a lizard).

  On the 27th, the team carried loads to the site for C3 at 5800m on the northwest slope of the West Ridge not far below the ridge and on the following day they occupied the camp. From C3 Martine Trichot and Daniel Trichot left the expedition and returned to Kyanjin Kharka. They had tired themselves out running about. On the 30th the team pitched C4 at 6200m on the side of the ridge. Grobel's policy is to move slowly up a mountain and make a number of camps not very far apart.

  On 1 November five members went for the summit from C4 at 8:00 am. They were Dupuy, Kia, Grobel, Males and Revest. Revest went to 6500m, then turned back to C4 because of a bad cough; the other continued to the summit, which they reached at 2:30 pm. They got onto the West Ridge at 6700m and climbed it to the top. They returned to C4 at 5:00 pm.

  The whole route was mixed snow and ice. It was not very difficult, but one difficult steep section from C4 to the ridge needed 400m of fixed rope. They had fixed another 400m at the first step between C3 and C4. (When they shifted their goal to Gurkarpo Ri, Grobel used his satellite phone to arrange for a helicopter from Kathmandu to drop 800m of rope on C1 on 26 October. This was expensive for Grobel, but it was his duty to do what was necessary to enable his clients to succeed).

  On 2 November they descended from C4 to C1, and on the 3rd they went down to Kyanjin Kharka, Their camp at Pembthang had been removed on 22 October by their sirdar and BC staff (cook, etc.) to take it to Kathmandu.

  When the team's sirdar headed back to Kathmandu with much of the gear, he was stopped at the Nepal Mountaineering Association's post at Kyanjin Kharka by the NMA's representative there, Thiley Lama, owner of Yeti Guest House, who demanded payment of Rs 63,000 (equivalent of $1000) as royalty for Gurkarpo Ri, although the NMA has no authority to collect royalties for peaks managed by the tourism ministry; Grobel paid, and Thiley gave a receipt (not on NMA stationery). Grobel had intended when they switched to Gurkarpo Ri to settle with the tourism ministry on his return to Kathmandu.

  Sherpa:
    Chhotemba Sherpa, 26 years old, Makalu vdc, no 8000ers


expid: HIML07301
peakid: HIML
year: 2007
route1: W Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Jean-Francois Meyer
sponsor: Belgium Himlung Expedition
countries: Canada
approach: Thal->Phu
bcdate: 2007-10-04
smtdate: 2007-10-12
smttime: 1530
termdate: 2007-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7180m due to too much snow, too windy
campsites: BC(04/10,4850m),C1(09/10,5400m),C2(11/10,6200m),xxx(12/10,7180m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Fivet, Tassin, Herman, Degrave, Temba and Khule left C2 at 4 am on 12 Oct. Weather was clear but windy. At 6700m Fivet, Tassin, Degrave and Khule decided to turn back as the snow conditions were bad (frozen crust) and it was getting too late (it was 2 pm). They descended to C2, arrived at 6:30 pm. Herman and Temba carried on as they were feeling strong. When they reached the high point, they turned back as it was too late and it was very windy. They arrived at C2 at 8 pm. At 2 am on 13 Oct Degrave showed signs of HAPE, so Tassin, Herman, Degrave and Temba started descending to BC at 4 am. They arrived at BC at 11 am. Degrave felt better there. Fivet and Khul Bahadur packed up C2 on 13 Oct and descended to BC, where they arrived at 4 pm.

  Aerts reached C1 on 8 Oct. He did not carry on due to intestinal infection. He was evacuated from BC on 15 Oct. He was admitted to Norvic Clinic and stayed there for 7 days.

  Genders reached C1 on 8 Oct. He abandoned climb due to sleepless night and heart problems. He left BC on 12 Oct.

  Simonet reached C2 on 10 Oct but did not stay the night. As his goal was to reach C2 only, even though he was well. He left BC 13 Oct.

  Meyer reached C1 on 8 Oct. He did not carry on with expedition due to various illnesses (sinusitis, eye problems, random heart rate). He left BC on 12 Oct. He stayed 2 nights in Phu but his heart problems did not get better there. Once he arrived in Meta he was Ok.

  Sherpas:
    Temba Sherpa, Sedua, Makalu-5, 35 years, Everest Spring 2006
    Tham Bahadur Tilija, Audi-9, Maygdi, 2/7/64, climbed with Messner
    Khul Bahadur Thapa Magar, Taluwa-9, Okhaldhunga, 1/9/70


expid: JANU07301
peakid: JANU
year: 2007
route1: N Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Jordi Tosas
sponsor: Spanish Jannu
approach: Basantapuri->Ghunsa
bcdate: 2007-09-22
smtdate: 2007-09-23
termdate: 2007-09-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to avalanche danger
campsites: BC(22/09,4500m),xxx(23/09,6900m)
agency: Himalayan Outdoor Club
routememo:
  Tosas started from BC at midnight in the 1st part of the wall he climbed via the seracs as it seemed faster than the rock. Just before the glacier plateau he climbed the wall, which was quite tricky as there was a lot of snow on the wall. Up to 6000m the snow was safe; however from there the snow was deep and loose. Tosas started to feel tired. When he arrived at the couloir just behind serac of Japanese route he felt that avalanche danger was getting too high. He climbed to the other side of the wall and reached the Japanese route. He followed the ridge for a while but decided to go down at other side of the black pillar behind the ridge. He descended the route which is described as Wall of Shadows. It's the ridge which divides the wall. Tosas thinks it is safer than the big central slope. He did two abseils in the serac and one in the lower part.

  Tosas does not know about the route that was taken by an Australian/New Zealand expedition, led by Athol Whimp, in spring 2000. However, I emailed emailed him a picture posted on www.snownature.com and he said this was the line he climbed.


  Jordi Tosas on Jannu in Sept 2007 (comments by Valeri Babanov - 2 Nov 2007)

  Babanov knew about Tosas's solo climb; Tosas told him about his route and other details of his attempt before Babanov came to Nepal for his own Jannu climb.

  Now that he has climbed the north side of Jannu himself, Babanov says "it is not possible" to climb the Tosas route. There was a lot of snow on the Tosas route; Tosas said it took him 2 hours to climb from the Khumbhakarna Glacier to the bottom of the North Face, but it took Babanov and Kofanov half a day to break trail here. "He's a good man, a good climber, but ..."

  Another problem with Tosas's account is that in his descent via the Japanese route, towards the bottom, there are many big crevasses across the line he took.

  How high does Babanov think Tosas reached? "I don't know. I don't know."


expid: JANU07302
peakid: JANU
year: 2007
route1: W Pillar-SW Ridge from north
nation: Russia
leaders: Valeri Babanov
sponsor: Russian Jannu Expedition
ascent1: 24th
approach: Ghunsa->Ghunsa Khola->Khumbhakarna Glacier
bcdate: 2007-09-28
smtdate: 2007-10-21
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2007-10-24
othersmts: Climbed Merra Peak (MERR-073-01)
accidents: Both members frostbite
agency: Windhorse Trekking
campsites:
  BC(28/09,4700m),Biv1(14/10,5500m),Biv2(15/10,5950m),Biv3(16/10,6400m),Biv4(17/10,6700m),Biv5(18/10,7000m),Biv6(19/10,7300m),Biv7(20/10,7600m),Smt(21/10),Biv8(21/10,7300m)

routememo:
  Russian Jannu and Merra led by Valeri Babanov - 2 Nov 2007

  Babanov and Kofanov arrived at BC on 28 September with a group of high-altitude trekkers, hoping the party could climb Merra Peak with them since Babanov's trekking agent had told him it was just a trekking peak. They found that it wasn't that easy, so he and Kofanov waited until the trekkers left before they made their own climb of Merra. The purpose of this climb was to acclimatize for Jannu.

  On 5 October the two climbers began their ascent of Merra via its SE Face to ENE Ridge, probably the same route as the Danish route in autumn 2006. There was a lot of snow on this southern side and it snowed evey afternoon. They bivouacked at 5700m that night and next day went for the summit.

  Their plan had been to sleep on the summit of Merra, but that was not possible because there was not enough flat space to pitch their tent. On 6 Oct, they climbed the SE Face to the small shoulder at 6200m, put a tent there, continued to the summit, and bivouacked at the shoulder in their descent.

  The final 300-400 meters on the ESE Ridge is very sharp-edged and one needs to climb very carefully here. Babanov and Kofanov fixed no rope, but if one wanted to fix this section, one would need snowbars. The day's climb had taken them only nine hours despite their having moved slowly up the ridge.

  They returned to BC on the 7th and now turned their attention to Jannu. After a few days of snowfall, on the 11th they crossed the glacier where they had BC to find a way up a narrow sloping glacier, which Babanov called the upper glacier, to reach a large plateau. The upper glacier was heavily crevassed in the center and its left side was exposed to falling ice; they kept to the right side of this glacier on rock and snow, across the glacier from the North Face. It took them all day to explore this access to the plateau. They returned to BC and rested for two days.

  On 14th October they began their ascent of Jannu. They took only a small tent, a light sleeping bag for two, two short ropes, five gas cyclinders, a stove, food for eight or nine days, seven nuts, 12 snow pitons, seven or eight "friends" and four snowbars. Their packs weighed 20 kgs each.

  On the 14th October they climbed the upper glacier to 5500m at the entrance to the plateau and made their first bivouac there. Their next objective was the Yamatari La at 6350m at the far end of the plateau (re Yamatari La, see Jan Kielkowski's "Kangchenjunga Himal and Khumbhakarna Himal," pg 136). But the line they took the next day was not direct across the plateau but a much safer route on its side in a small gullly. On the 15th they climbed from 5500m to only 5950m in the gully because there was deep snow. On the 16th they reached the Yamatari La despite a lot of spindrift and bivouacked at 6400m, slightly above the pass because the wind was too strong at the pass.

  On the 17th they were now on the West Pillar. The weather was bad, windy and snowfalling, but they managed to ascend to 6700m and their next bivouac, which was under a serac. They moved up the West Pillar on the 18th to 7000m, and on the the 19th they gained the SW Ridge and bivouacked just 100m below the West Shoulder at 7300m.

  Finally on the 20th they took the absolute minimum of equipment for the last part of their ascent. They joined the 1983 French route (route 65, Kielkowski, pg 138). Here some of the pitches were very technical on mixed rock and ice. They slept at 7600m.

  On the 21st they woke very early at 4:30 am because they were very cold after having spent the night without a sleeping bag. At 9:30 am they were on a snow tower, the summit, slightly beyond a false summit (20m lower) which they thought at first was the top. It was like climbing to the top of a skyscraper, Babanov said. The weather was windy by sunny when they reached the true summit, and they got good pictures of all sides of Jannu.

  Babanov described their route as "a very logical line, a beautiful" line. The French in 1994 had been on the same summit ridge to 6700m after fixing rope but could go no further because it was too difficult for them and there was strong wind.

  Babanov's ascent in autumn 2003 of a pillar on the South Face of Nuptse to Nuptse East I summit was more technical than this Jannu climb, but Jannu was "more demanding:" on Nuptse he had fixed 1000m of rope, but on Jannu none. Jannu was "a great challenge altogether."

  In their descent from the summit, they had to sleep the night of the 21st in a bergschrund at 7300m because the wind was so strong they couldn't pitch their tent. On the 22nd they descended their ascent route all through the day and night -- no sleep, "just rappel, rappel, rappel" -- and reached BC at 2:00 am on the 23rd "very, very tired, moving very slowly."

  Both climbers had gotten slgiht frostbite on their toes; Babanov's three toes were slightly black, but Kofanov's toes and fingers were merely numb.


expid: KANT07301
peakid: KANT
year: 2007
nation: UK
leaders: Julian Freeman-Attwood
sponsor: Kanti Himal Expedition
bcdate: 2007-09-23
termdate: 2007-10-10
termnote: Climbed two unnamed peaks near Kanti Himal
achievment: 1st ascents of 2 unnamed border peaks
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
othersmts:
  Climbed two unnamed border peaks (5984m and 5930m) northwest of Kanti Himal; intended to attempt Rongla Kangri in Tibet instead of Kanti Himal

campsites:
  BC(23/09,4050m),ABC(01/10,5250m),C1(04/10,5750m),Unnamed Peak(08/10,5984m),Unnamed Peak(09/10,5930m)

routememo:
  Kanti Himal Expedition - 18 October 2007

  The aim of the expedition was actually to attempt to climb Rongla Kangri (6647m), which is actually in Tibet northeast of the 6516m border peak in the Kanti Himal range. They took a permit for Kanti's highest peak, 6859m, farther southeast along the border of the 6516m peak, since that is the peak on the Nepalese government's permitted list.

  Their approach march took them from Jumla to Gangadhi, Mugu Karnali river, Mugu Khola to Mugu village and Koji Khola. Base camp was pitched on 23 September beside the Koji Khola at 4050m south-southwest of the 6516m peak.

  From there they moved northeast to a spot near the west end of a sizeable lake and established advance base camp here on 1 October at 5250m. From here, "it was very exciting going into the Hidden Valley of the Upper Rongla Glacier" on 3 October, Hughes said.

  C1 was pitched on 4 October north-northeast of ABC at 5750m just over the border in Tibet close to an unnamed 5984m peak, which is on the border.

  From C1 they attempted to surmount a rock band north of the camp to reach Rongla Kangri. On the 5th, Wickens and Colton climbed up the firm snow and ice covering the rock, but 60-70 mph wind and white-out forced them to retreat from an altitude of 5850m. On the 8th, Hughes made his attempt to climb the band, and reached about the same point, above which the flaky granite rock would need fixing; he also retreated from 5850m.

  Hughes then soloed peak 5984m via its north ridge of mixed snow, ice and rock and skied down to C1. Next day, the 9th, Hughes, Colton and Wickens scaled another unnamed peak 5930m high just south of peak 5984m and also on the border. They climbed the SW Ridge on consolidated snow. These first ascents were "consolation prizes" for their inability to reach Rongla Kangri. At this time, Freeman-Attwood was in ABC not feeling well.

  The team left BC to return to Kathmandu on the 10th. During the 17 days they were in BC or above, it snowed for nine and a half days. But they enjoyed immensely exploring this wild area where no one had been before -- and pleased with their consolation prizes.


expid: LANG07301
peakid: LANG
year: 2007
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Claudio Rosset
sponsor: Aosta Valley Expedition to Langtang Lirung
approach: Langtang Khola past Langtang village to south end of Lirung Glacier
bcdate: 2007-09-19
smtdate: 2007-10-04
termdate: 2007-10-07
termnote: Abandoned at 5200m due to dangerous snow conditions
campsites: BC(19/09,4200m),C1(22/09,4700m),xxx(04/10,5200m)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  BC at Tsangbu left side of glacier
  C1 at west of Tsangbu
  High point at couloir.

  Fixed 100m towards bottom of couloir 22 Sept. 23rd all members had headaches so down to BC. It rained till 30 Sept. 1 Oct to C1 in 60cm snow and tent crushed by snow, so down to BC for another tent. 2nd Oct took new tent to C1 and slept there. 3rd Oct to bottom of couloir, where discovered crampons and rope were under snow and couldn't find them, so down to BC. 4th Oct to couloir directly and fixed 500m rope there in knee-deep snow; progress very slow and therefore danger of being hit by avalanching during long exposure. Down to BC on 4th and rain again that night. 5th to C1 but snow conditions not safe and climb finished and so down to BC. Had long 2m pole searching for gear at bottom of couloir and found ice axe.


expid: LIK107301
peakid: LIK1
year: 2007
route1: N Ridge from east
nation: Japan
leaders: Koichi Ezaki
sponsor: Hokkaido Linkhu Chuli Expedition
approach: Namche->Thami, west to Thengpo village and Thengpo Glacier
bcdate: 2007-11-18
smtdate: 2007-11-24
termdate: 2007-11-27
termnote: Abandoned at 5950m due to supply of rope exhausted
campsites: BC(18/11,4600m),C1(22/11,5400m),xxx(24/11,5950m).
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC on grass at a lake north of Thengpo Glacier
  C1 at upper Thengpo Glacier above snow wall
  High point near pt. 5967 on Schneider Rolwaling map north of summit, 
     very near North Ridge.

  On 24 Nov Ezaki and Kudo climbed from C1 up the east face of the North Ridge to 5950m; route was technically difficult; they fixed 600m of rope and needed 500m more on the snow and ice. They had left a cache of rope in early Nov, when Ezaki had led a successful climbing nearby Parchemo by a larger party but when they returned to this mountain the rope had been stolen. The route was impossible to climb without fixed rope, so instead of establishing C2 at 5950m as planned, and from there gaining the North Ridge and thence to the summit, they had to turn back and the climb was over. They returned to BC the same day and left BC on 27 Nov.


expid: MAKA07301
peakid: MAKA
year: 2007
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Romano Benet
sponsor: Nives Meroi Makalu Expedition
approach: By air to Tumlingtar after 6 days wait in KTM
bcdate: 2007-09-20
smtdate: 2007-10-13
termdate: 2007-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to too much snow and wind
campsites: BC(20/09,5650m),C1(03/10,6350m),C2(13/10,7400m),xxx(13/10,7400m)
accidents: Cook's altitude sickness
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  BC at high BC of Austrian expedition
  C1 at start of steep part of Chago Glacier
  C2 at Makalu La.

  21 Sept began to snow and in 2 days 1.5m snowfall at BC. Cook got altitude sickness and team had to wait at BC until helicopter rescued him from BC. 1 Oct went to 6100m and down to BC. 3 Oct to 6350m where pitched C1 at beginning of steep section, 100m above Chago Glacier where again there is flat area. 4 Oct climbed in deep snow up to 6500m and down to BC that day. 7 Oct to C1, 8th to 7000m and back to BC. 12th to C1, moved Camp to 6700m. 13th to Makalu La and made C2 there. 14th to BC. "Lot of wind a lot of snow" on mountain. Next day more snowfall and climb finished: weather getting worse with wind and snow. "Beautiful mountaineering, wonderful to be alone" (no other people anywhere) said Meroi.

  Cook was Indra Bahadur Magar, 31 years old, from Kerung, Solu.


expid: MANA07301
peakid: MANA
year: 2007
route1: NE Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Michel Wirth
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Manaslu Expedition 2007
approach: Nihalpani->Arughat
bcdate: 2007-09-12
smtdate: 2007-10-03
termdate: 2007-10-08
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to too much snow, bad weather
campsites: BC(12/09,4900m),C1(15/09,5800m),C2(21/09,6700m),xxx(03/10,6700m)
agency: Iceland Trekking (Dorje)
routememo:
  For summit push team left BC on 1 Oct. They were weating snowshoes. They left BC at 8:30 am and got to C1 at 2 pm. They had to dig for about 3 hours to find the tents that they had pitched on 15 Sept. Most of them were destroyed, but they had brought new tents. On 2 Oct they ascended to an intermediate camp at 6210m, put up deposit camp and descended to C1. On 3 Oct they ascended to C2. They left C1 at 6:15 am and arrived at intermediate camp at 9 am. It was easier than following day as they had broken trail the previous day. They reached C2 at noon and had to dig for another three hours to find the tents they had pitched on 21 Sept. They pitched another tent and left all their climbing gear (worth about 30,000 SFR) there as the weather forecast was good and they wanted to do another summit push. They did not carry on to summit as the winds were strong and they were tired. On same day 3 Oct they descended to BC. They left C2 at 3 pm and got to BC at 8:30 pm. It snowed again heavily from 5 Oct to 8 Oct. There was about 1 meter of new snow. On 8 Oct it became clear that another summit push would be impossible.

  On 8 Oct Boehm and Haag from German expedition ascended to C1 and rescued the Swiss climbing gear that was left at C1. No one made it to C2 anymore; all gear was lost.

  Everybody left BC on 8 Oct.

  On 29 Sept a huge blast from an avalanche hit BC at 9 am. It destroyed many tents from all expeditions. Part of team descended to Samagaon for one day as avalanche danger was too high. Between 23 Sept and 30 Sept it snowed more or less non-stop and it dumped about 2.5 meters fresh snow at BC. 

  There was extreme avalanche danger on mountain all the time.

  The whole team moved together every day of expedition. 

  "Sherpas":
    Pemba Tamang, Taksindu, Solu
    Pemba Norbu Sherpa, Lelep-9, Taplejung


expid: MANA07302
peakid: MANA
year: 2007
route1: NE Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Benedikt Boehm
sponsor: Dynafit Gortex Manaslu Expedition
countries: Austria, France
approach: Pokhara->Samagaon
bcdate: 2007-09-13
smtdate: 2007-10-04
smttime: 0815
termdate: 2007-10-08
termnote: Abandoned at 7360m due to too much snow
campsites: BC(13/09,4913m),C1(17/09,5800m),xxx(04/10,7360m)
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  Boehm, Bonnet and Haag left BC on 3 Oct at 11 pm. Weather was clear but windy. Snow was very deep. They were skinning up on skies. They skinned to C1 and then from C1 to 6200m. They skinned about 50 percent of the way and from 6200m to 6600m all the way. From there to high point, they used crampons as it was to steep. When they reached 7000m Bonnet decided that he would not make it to the summit and climbed up another sub-summit, which was at about 7100m. Boehm and Haag carried on, but when they got to their high point the avalanche danger was getting too high and the slope was too steep. They descended to BC on skies. Bonnet also skied down to BC. They arrived at BC at noon. 

  On 5 Oct team dismantled BC and decided to leave. But as weather forecast was not too bad for the next few days, Haag and Boehm decided to stay with Swiss team (led by Michel Wirth). Bonnet and Rieger left on 5 Oct. On 6 Oct Boehm and Haag started another summit push but had to turn back after 500m as the snow was too deep and avalanche danger too high.

  On 8 Oct Boehm and Haag ascended to C1 to rescue their gear and gear of the Swiss Expedition.

  Rieger reached 6400m (C2) twice. However, he was never intending to climb to summit as he was cameraman of expedition.


expid: MANA07303
peakid: MANA
year: 2007
route1: NE Face
nation: Canada
leaders: Keith Sanford
sponsor: 2007 Canadian International Manaslu Expedition
countries: Australia, New Zealand, Portugal
approach: Samagaon by helicopter
bcdate: 2007-09-01
smtdate: 2007-09-19
termdate: 2007-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to lots of snow, danger of avalanches
campsites: BC(01/09,4900m),C1(05/09,5600m),C2(14/09,6800m),xxx(19/09,7200m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  On 19 Sept Bosch, Brodkorb, Sanford and Velez climbed up to fix C3 at 7200m. While the climbers were at 7200m, the Swiss team radioed Sanford that a storm was approaching towards the mountain, so then the team descended to C2, slept there, and the next day to BC. The team went to C1 on 1 Oct and next day to C2. The team found that their tents were totally damaged and swept down by avalanche. The team collected its gear and went back to C1. Next day to BC. 

  Morrison probably reached up to C1. 

  Parker joined with Swiss team went up to C2 on 14 Sept. He returned Kathmandu on 10 Oct and leaves after 4-5 days. From 15 Oct, stayed at Hotel Tenki. 

  White left expedition on 12 Sept due to his family problem. 

  Rest of the members returned Kathmandu on 6 Oct.


expid: MERR07301
peakid: MERR
year: 2007
route1: SE Face-ENE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Valeri Babanov
sponsor: Russian Jannu Expedition
ascent1: 2nd
approach: Ghunsa->Ghunsa Khola->Khumbhakarna Glacier
bcdate: 2007-09-28
smtdate: 2007-10-06
termdate: 2007-10-24
othersmts: Climbed Jannu (JANU-073-02)
campsites: BC(28/09,4700m),Biv1(05/10,5700m),Smt(06/10),Biv2(06/10,6200m)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
primid: JANU07302
routememo:
  Russian Jannu and Merra led by Valeri Babanov - 2 Nov 2007

  Babanov and Kofanov arrived at BC on 28 September with a group of high-altitude trekkers, hoping the party could climb Merra Peak with them since Babanov's trekking agent had told him it was just a trekking peak. They found that it wasn't that easy, so he and Kofanov waited until the trekkers left before they made their own climb of Merra. The purpose of this climb was to acclimatize for Jannu.

  On 5 October the two climbers began their ascent of Merra via its SE Face to ENE Ridge, probably the same route as the Danish route in autumn 2006. There was a lot of snow on this southern side and it snowed evey afternoon. They bivouacked at 5700m that night and next day went for the summit.

  Their plan had been to sleep on the summit of Merra, but that was not possible because there was not enough flat space to pitch their tent. On 6 Oct, they climbed the SE Face to the small shoulder at 6200m, put a tent there, continued to the summit, and bivouacked at the shoulder in their descent.

  The final 300-400 meters on the ESE Ridge is very sharp-edged and one needs to climb very carefully here. Babanov and Kofanov fixed no rope, but if one wanted to fix this section, one would need snowbars. The day's climb had taken them only nine hours despite their having moved slowly up the ridge.

  They returned to BC on the 7th and now turned their attention to Jannu.


expid: MERR07302
peakid: MERR
year: 2007
route1: S Face of E Ridge-E Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Vincent Palandre
sponsor: Merra Expedition
ascent1: 3rd
approach: By bus to Taplejung & from there up the Tamur River to Ghunsa Khola
bcdate: 2007-10-31
smtdate: 2007-11-05
smttime: 0710
termdate: 2007-11-08
campsites: BC(31/10,4050m),C1(03/11,5200m),C2(04/11,5800m),Smt(05/11)
agency: Trinetra Adventure
routememo:
  To reach the Central (Main) Summit, the approach is from the East Ridge, but this route is dangerous if not well covered by snow on top of its unstable loose rock; if covered, there is no problem. This expedition expected that there would not be good snow cover and they would climb to the East Summit only.

  They left Kathmandu by bus to Taplejung and from there up the Tamur River to Ghunsa Khola and up Ghunsa Khola almost to the village of Kangbachen. They crossed the khola to the east side at the mouth of the Khumbhakarna Glacier (Jannu Glacier) and placed their BC there at 4050m on 31 October. This camp was used by their kitchen staff and porters, but the three members and their only high-altitude Sherpa, Pasang Phutar, whom they considered to be their guide and fellow climber, not a load carrying Sherpa, moved farther east up the glacier and made ABC on moraine above the glacier at 4700m on 1 November.

  They had now concluded that they would be able to go directly to the Central Summit. C1 was sited on rock at the foot of the Merra Glacier on 3 November at 5200m at noon, and that afternoon Pasang Phutar reconnoitered the route to C2. He found it along the left (west) side of the Merra Glacier. On 4 November, they climbed on the glacier's west side, then crossed it diagonally and put C2 at 5800m on this glacier, which comes down from the Central Summit. Pasang Phutar fixed 15m of rope above C2 for safety, but it wasn't really necessary.

  On the 5th, they went for the summit. The three Frenchmen and Pasang Phutar left C2 at 3:00 am to climb to the top of the glacier and then up the Central Summit's South Face to a couloir on its East Ridge. The maximum grade of the face was 50 degrees. From the col they moved along the East Ridge, which had very good snow cover to the final 20-30 meters below the summit; from here they climbed on pure rock. The maximum grade of the ridge was 35 degrees, but it was a sharp ridge, very exposed and dangerous where corniced. But the climb to the summit from C2 had presented no major difficulties and they were on the top, which is a small dome, at 7:10 am.

  Their climbing route had been the South Face of Central Summit's East Ridge, then along the East Ridge.

  They were back in C2 at 11:00 am. On the next day the 6th, they were in ABC, and on the 7th, in BC. Lionel Palandre was badly dehydrated and not feeling well, but he soon recovered; it was nothing serious.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Phutar, 8/7/61 (21/3/2018), Yaphu, Sankhuwasabha, Cho Oyu X2,
      Everest 18/5/07


expid: NEMJ07301
peakid: NEMJ
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Renaud Guillaume
sponsor: Nemjung 2007
approach: Bulbhule->Phu
bcdate: 2007-10-17
smtdate: 2007-10-28
termdate: 2007-10-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to technical difficulty (cornice)
campsites: BC(17/10,4950m),C1(21/10,5500m),C2(23/10,6200m),xxx(28/10,6600m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Rai)
routememo:
  Route between BC and C1 was difficult to find due to crevasses. On their first trip to C1, the team put up two intermediate camps. One at 5100m just below an icefall and one just above icefall at 5300m. They marked route, set up C1 on 20 Oct, and descended to BC. On 21 Oct they ascended directly to C1 which took 5 hours. From C1 to C2 the main difficulty were the ice flutes below the pass. Team put up another intermediate camp at 5900m on 22 Oct. They stayed one night and ascended to C2 on 23 Oct. On 24 Oct they descended to BC in about 4 hours. They rested at BC for 1 day and went for summit push on 25 Oct. BC to C1 in 5 hours; C1 to C2 in 6 hours. On 28 Oct they left C2 at 1 am. Weather was good, full moon. They climbed for about 3 hours. They were on the ridge, however they could not walk on top of the ridge due to a cornice. They walked below the ridge but snow was very hard and very difficult to walk on. They stopped at 4 am and waited for the sun to come up to have a closer look at the route. They finally decided that the route was too difficult for them and turned back at 6:30 am. On way down they dismantled all camps and descended to BC, arriving at 8 am.

  The group walked out via the Kang La.


expid: PUMO07301
peakid: PUMO
year: 2007
route1: SE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Tadaomi Miwatari
sponsor: JAC Senior 2007 Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Phortse->Pheriche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2007-09-28
smtdate: 2007-10-10
termdate: 2007-10-13
termnote: Abandoned at 6050m due to lots of snow
campsites: BC(28/09,5400m),ABC(01/10,5600m),C1(10/10,6050m),xxx(10/10,6050m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  On 10 Oct Hanazaki and Miwatari and four Nepalis slept at C2. There was space only for two tents. Lots of snow-waist deep, thus not possible to go up higher. 

  Mrs Miyazawa slept four nights at ABC from 1 Oct. 
  Sato, Shiratori and Takehana went up to 5700m on 6 Oct. 

  The team returned Kathmandu on 16 Oct. Miyazawa left Kathmandu on 19 Oct. Rest of the members will leave on 26 Oct.

  Hired:
    Tul Bahadur Tamang, (17-6-2023) 3/10/66, Deusa-6, Solukhumbu
      Dhaul I X1, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X2, Manaslu X1
    Hit Bahadur Tamang, (8-11-2027) 20/2/71, Deusa-6, Solukhumbu
    Dhan Kumar Tamang, (19-8-2042) 4/12/85, Deusa-6, Solukhumbu
    Jaya Prakash Rai, (15-12-2030) 28/3/74 Makalu-6, Makalu X1


expid: PUMO07302
peakid: PUMO
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Roland Mattle
sponsor: Austrians to Pumori
ascent1: 155
approach: Lukla->Namche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2007-10-21
smtdate: 2007-11-01
smttime: 1220
termdate: 2007-11-04
campsites: BC(21/10,5350m),C1(26/10,6130m),Smt(01/11)
agency: Himalayan Garden Treks
routememo:
  BC at Glacial Lake
  C1 at below Snow Pyramid.

  Jungmann and Mattle started summit push from BC at midnight. Weather clear and calm. They reached C1 at 3 am, where rest of the team was waiting. Below C1 there were many snow mushrooms to overcome, which were made of loose snow. Whole team left C1 at 4 am. Deep snow, very loose snow. At 6700m ridge becomes very sharp and steep. Team had to concentrate very much as they were climbing without rope. Good views from summit. Descent was straightforward. Team took ice-screws out again. They descended to C1, where they arrived at 6:45 pm.

  On the whole, conditions were very precarious as a lot of the snow mushrooms that had to be overcome, were made of loose snow. Steepest section was behind second tower at 6350m. It was blank ice at a gradient of about 75 degrees.


expid: PUMO07303
peakid: PUMO
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Pierrick Dentan
sponsor: Yosemite Team to Pumori
bcdate: 2007-11-07
smtdate: 2007-11-11
termdate: 2007-11-12
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to strong winds and too long to summit and return to C2
campsites: BC(07/11,5300m),C1(09/11,6350m),C2(10/11,6550m),xxx(11/11,6700m)
accidents: Dentan's frostbite
agency: Adventure Thamserku
routememo:
  BC near 2 lakes at foot of South Face
  C1 biv on rocky terrace 200m from SW Ridge on South Face
  C2 biv on SW Ridge in snowhole.

  11 Nov at 9 am on the SW Ridge at 6700m. Cause: The estimated time to summit: 4-5 hours + 3 hours to climb down to C2 were considered too long as we had not eat eaten much as of day 2 + strong winds (70km/h at 7000m) were forecast for the next day. 

  From that position, it took us 13 hours to reach BC. At that time Pierrick Dentan had not realized that he had frostbite (he only realized that the next morning at BC Camp).


expid: PUTH07301
peakid: PUTH
year: 2007
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Georges Derycke
sponsor: French Putha Hiunchuli
ascent1: 28th
countries: UK
bcdate: 2007-10-25
smtdate: 2007-11-05
smttime: 0845
termdate: 2007-11-07
campsites: BC(25/10,4860m),C1(29/10,5440m),C2(03/11,6167m),C3(4/11,6600m),Smt(05/11)
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Rai)
routememo:
  Summit team left C3 at 4:30 am. Weather was good but cold and a lot of snow, so they had to break trail. Summit view fantastic. Derycke descended to BC, where he arrived at 5 pm. Pemba and Pasang also descended to BC. Rest of summit team descended to C1, where they arrived at 4 pm. Next day they dismantled C1 and descended to BC.

  Betinelli reached 6900m on 5 Nov. He turned back due to cold feet. He waited at C3 and descended to BC with Derycke.

  Syren reached C3 on 4 Nov but did not go for summit as he was was not feeling well. He stayed at C3 and descended to C1 with rest of group. On 6 Nov he started feeling very ill at BC. When they were descending to Kakot, Syren developed pulmonary oedema. They had to carry and short rope him to Kakot. It took them 12 hours from BC to Kakot and according to Edmundson and Syren nearly died on the trip. When they got to Kakot Syren was getting better. Next day they hired a horse for him and they walked out to Juphal.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Temba, 20/1/83 (2039/10/6), Tashigaon, Makalu-5, Ev 18/5/06
    Pemba Jangbu, 16/2/86 (2042/1/5), Paiya, Jubing-7, Solu, Gyaji Kang 26/9/05


expid: SARI07301
peakid: SARI
year: 2007
route1: NE Face/Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
sponsor: French Mustang to Phu Expedition to Saribung
ascent1: 4th
approach: Kagbeni->Lo Monthang->Luri Gompa->Nanta Khola
bcdate: 2007-09-28
smtdate: 2007-10-02
smttime: 1000
campsites: BC(28/09,5200m),C1(30/09,5700m),C2(01/10,6042m),Smt(02/10)
agency: Adventure 6000
routememo:
  BC at Nanta Khola
  C1 north of mountain
  C2 at pass Mustang Pass.

  French Mustang to Phu Expedition to Saribung - 12 Oct 2007

  The team's approach march was up the Kali Gandaki River to Kagbeni, then north to Lo Monthang, south-southeast to Luri Gompa, south to Nanta Khola and south along Nanta Khola to 5200m on eastern bank of the khola.

  From their C2 on 2 October all members and two Sherpas, Tashi Temba and Cho Temba, went for the top. They left camp at 7:00 am and were on the summit at 10:00 am in very clear weather. The day's ascent was very easy up more a face than a ridge, a snow slope of not more than 30 degrees with crevasses, where the members rope up; they did not need crampons or ice axes.

  In their descent, they went down to Mustang Pass, where they had pitched C2. Next day, the 3rd, from there they descended the pass's southeast side (they had ascended its northwest side) and continued southeast to the site of base camps for Bhrikuti climbs. They camped that night here at 5750m, and on the 4th went to Phugaon to spend two nights in the village before leaving the area southward via the Phu Khola. It was altogether "a very pleasant trip."

  Summit Sherpas:
    Tashi Temba Lama, 18/5/66 (5/2/2023), Makalu-9, no 8000ers
    Cho Temba, 5/10/84 (13/5/2041), Makalu-9, no 8000ers


expid: SARI07302
peakid: SARI
year: 2007
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Michiko Sakagami
sponsor: Snow and Rock Alpine Club Saribung Expedition 2007
approach: Damodar Kunda from the north
bcdate: 2007-11-10
smtdate: 2007-11-10
termdate: 2007-11-11
campsites: BC(10/11,5300m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Snow and Rock Alpine Club Saribung Expedition 2007 - 20 Nov 2007

  This one-woman team approached Saribung from the north, from the lakes called Damodar Kunda southwards to BC. At Damodar Kunda, the porter carrying her load, Antare Rai, had started developing edema, and when he went ahead of Mrs. Sakagami to BC (5300m) on 9 November, he became seriously ill. Mrs. Sakagami arrived at BC on the 10th, but on the way she and Gelu Tshering Sherpa (40 years old from Beni, Solu) and the cook met Rai on his return from BC and saw he was nearly dead. She sent Gelu Tshering down with Rai to get him quickly to where he could receive medical attention while she continued to BC. But she left BC on the 11th: she had abandoned all thought of her climb: "life is more important." She felt she had saved his life. She went slowly with the cook down to Jomsom to return to Kathmandu.


expid: SWEL07301
peakid: SWEL
year: 2007
route1: SE Face
nation: USA
leaders: Peter Ackroyd
sponsor: Cowboys in the Manaslu
approach: Up Buri Gandaki; part Samde village to southeast end of Hinku Glacier
bcdate: 2007-10-12
smtdate: 2007-10-14
termdate: 2007-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 5120m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(12/10,4500m),xxx(14/10,5120m)
agency: Jai Himal Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Hinku glacier
  High point at moraine at base of icefall 800 ft. 

  Stayed in BC to 17th except for recce on 14th to see C1 site and down to BC 14-15 hours constant snow and more intermittently fall over these days. Gave up idea of climb because weather looked like staying bad and even when cleared would have to wait for snow to consolidate. Expected to need only one high camp before summit.


expid: TAWO07301
peakid: TAWO
year: 2007
route1: S Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Hans Rauner
sponsor: Taboche Expedition
othersmts: Climbed Mt. Abi and Lobuche East
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Tawoche Expedition

  The expedition had a permit to climb Tawoche (aka Taboche). But first they made a circuit of part of Khumbu. From Namche Bazar, they trekked up the Bhote Kosi River to Thamo, Merulung and Chhule, then northeast across the Renjo La and east to Gokyo village. On 24 October all five members and three Sherpas, Nima Kancha, Pemba Tenzing and Nanda Dorje, summited Gokyo Ri from Gokyo village, then trekked to Dragnag village.

  On 25 October, they trekked north to a small lake south of Kangchung Peak, and made their base camp for a climb of Mt. Abi (also spelled Awi). On the 26th, Rauner, Leuzinger, Polli, and the three Sherpas climbed to the summit at 6097m via its South Ridge and slept in the lake camp that night.

  The team then trekked southeast, crossed the Cho La and on the 27th made their base camp for Lobuche East at 5200m. On the 29th, Leuzinger, Oswald and the three Sherpas made high camp at 5750m, and on the 30th they reached the summit at 6119m via its South Ridge in five hours from high camp. Later on the 30th, the team trekked to Pheriche.

  By this time, all members had bad coughs and headaches. They stayed five days in Pheriche to get better, but did not, so Rauner cancelled plans for climbing Tawoche and on 1 November they trekked to Khumjung, on the 2nd to Phakding and on the 3rd to Lukla.

  Sherpas:
    Nima/Ngima Kancha, 15/5/80, Khumjung, Everest X2
    Pemba Tenzing, 6/1/68 (22/9/2044), Khumjung, Everest 21/5/07
    Nanda/Naga Dorje, 30/12/66 (15/9/2023), Khumjung, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X3


expid: THOR07301
peakid: THOR
year: 2007
route1: N side
nation: Japan
leaders: Teru Katakura
sponsor: Japanese to Thorong Peak
ascent1: 1st official
approach: Jomsom->Mesokanto La->Manang->Jhargsang Khola->Thorong Phedi
bcdate: 2007-11-06
smtdate: 2007-11-08
smttime: 1115
termdate: 2007-11-09
campsites: BC(06/11,5400m),Smt(08/11)
achievment: 1st official ascent
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Japanese to Thorong Peak - 13 Nov 2007

  The team were not entirely certain which mountain is Thorong Peak; they believe it is point 6144 on HMG map "Muktinath 2883 04," but the tourism ministry gave its height as 5751m on their permit. It is not a shoulder of Khatang Kang but is a separate mountain very near Khatang Kang. They heard that a British team had been climbing it two weeks before them.

  They climbed their mountain from Thorong La, where the made their BC at 5400m on 9 November. They went south past a small lake, over point 5402m on the HMG map and south up the northern slope of Thorong Peak.

  The slope was not very steep: most of it 20 degrees, but the upper part was 30 degrees of snow and ice, where they needed to use crampons. It was not technically difficult, but they fixed 300m of rope: 200m from 5600m to 5700m on mixed snow, ice and rock, and 100m near the summit.

  They left BC at 5:45 am on 19 November and at 11:15 am all six members plus three Nepalese climbers, sirdar Pasang Tamang, Hit Bahadur Tamang, Ang Dawa Tamang and the cook, Gadget Bis Gurung, were on the summit. They returned to BC at 4:15 pm and left BC on the 11th.

  Nepalese staff:
    Ang Dawa Tamang, 32-33 years old, Kerung-5, Solu
    Hit Bahadur Tamang, 1971-2 (2028), Deusa-6, Solu
    Pasang Tamang, 4/12/68, Deusa-6, Solu, Everest X3
    Gadget Bis Gurung (cook), 32-33 years old, Makalu vdc

accidents:
  Katakura got some frostbite on her toes, which were slightly black; Yumoto very slightly frostbitten


expid: TILI07301
peakid: TILI
year: 2007
route1: NE Spur-N Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Jan Kwiaton
sponsor: Polish Himalayan Expedition Tilicho Lake & Climbing
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Polish Himalayan Expedition Tilicho Lake and Climbing -  25 October 2007

  The climbing party never was able to reach base camp for their intended climb via the NE Spur to North Ridge. They did finally get to the south side of Tilicho Lake on 12 October and the camp at 4920m for a diving party with them, but no farther. There wasn't a day when it did not snow, and even if they had gotten to their base camp north of the lake, the weather was very bad and the mountain was avalanching day and night. They left the lake camp on 17 October to return to Kathmandu.

  The members came back to Kathmandu on 23 October, but their baggage did not come with them: porters were unable to reach the lake camp for days. The team expected it to arrive on the evening of the 28th or on the 29th.


  Polish Himalayan Expeditions Tilicho Lake and Climbing

  The expeditions has two teams one for diving and another one for climbing. The members arrived in three different dates.

  First team: Leader Kwiaton and two climbers Lwow and Witkowski arrived Kathmandu on 21 Sept and left 29 Sept by bus to Besisahar and plans to reach BC on 7 Oct via Manang. The team also has three divers.

  Second Team: Two climbers Knapczyk and Pereveczo arrived Kathmandu on 1 Oct left by car to Pokhara to take flight to Jomsom on 3 or 4 Oct. The second team tried to go to BC through Thorang La (according to Ganesh) but could not reach due to lots of snow and half-way the leader told them to go back as the expedition has called off climbing. The two members returned Kathmandu on 14 Oct and stayed in Buddha Hotel.

  Third Team: Two climbers Jawien and Snopczynski arrived Kathmandu on 15 Oct. These two climbers and Pereveczo of team two will leave Kathmandu for Pokhara on 18 Oct and try to fly to Hongde on 19 Oct or 22 Oct to proceed to BC. According to Pereveczo the first team now is on the south side of the Tilicho Lake. Climber Knapczyk is trying to return to Poland.

  Climbing team team will not take oxygen. Diving team will have special kind of oxygen in plenty.


expid: TILJ07301
peakid: TILJ
year: 2007
route1: North side
nation: Spain
leaders: Manuel Miranda
sponsor: Catalonian Tilje Expedition 2007
agency: Parbat Kailash Adventures Treks
routememo:
  Catalonian Tilje Expedition 2007

  The team's approach route was by bus on 24 September to Besisahar then trekked up the Marshyangdi Khola to Koto village. They had to spend three days at Koto because of incessant rain which caused rock slides. From Koto north on Nar Khola to Phu Khola, east to Kyang (Kayang) village on the Mruku Khola.

  From here it was impossible to continue farther east because of waist-deep snow and snow avalanches. So back to Kyang and then to Phugaon and east to the site for Gyaji Kang base camp. From here on 12 October they went to 6000m on the glacier to the west side of Gyaji Kang in an effort to reach Tilje by this northern approach across this glacier.

  But here again they found the snow to be waist-deep and even deeper, and there was some avalanching off Gyaji Kang. So that they abandoned any attempt to reach Tilje and returned to Phugaon and Koto on their way back to Kathmandu.

  Miranda believes that Tilje is 6479m high, not 5697m as per the government's permitted-peaks list. He cites maps he has seen and says it is the peak 6479m on the HMG-Finnish map BAGARCHHAP, Sheet No. 2884-06.


expid: TUKU07301
peakid: TUKU
year: 2007
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Johann Winkler
sponsor: Tukuche Expedition
ascent1: 20th
approach: Beni->Dovan->Jongbadon->Dhaulagiri BC->Hidden Valley
bcdate: 2007-10-23
smtdate: 2007-10-27
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2007-10-28
campsites: BC(23/10,5100m),C1(26/10,5700m),Smt(27/10)
achievment: 1st Austrian to summit Tukuche
agency: Karyang Kurung Treks
routememo:
  Riglthaler, Wagner, Winkler and Puchang Bhote left on 27 Oct C1 at 3 am. Winkler and Puchang Bhote reached summit at 11 am, stayed on summit about about 45 minutes, then descended to C1 at 2 pm. Then continued to BC at 4 pm. Weather was very good, no clouds, little wind from west. Riglthaler and Wagner had to return from 6300m around 7 am; They fell down several times during their climb as they were climbing without walking poles so they became tired and gave up climbing. Riglthaler and Wagner reached BC around 12 pm. 

  Ollmann suffered from headache at BC and remained there. 

  The team returned Kathmandu on 3 Nov and will leave on 7 Nov.

  Hired:
    Puchhong Bhote, 2/4/80 (2036/12/20), Chepuwa-3, Sankhuwasabha


expid: ANNE00301
peakid: ANNE
year: 2000
route1: Eastern end of S Face (up); North Ridge (down)
nation: France
leaders: Yannick Graziani, Christian Trommsdorf, Patrick Wagnon
bcdate: 2000-10-10
smtdate: 2000-10-20
termdate: 2000-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to high winds
othersmts: Climbed Singu Chuli
campsites:
  SouthBC(10/10,4300m),Dep(18/10,6000m),Biv1(19/10,6800m),Biv2(20/10,7500m),Biv3(21/10,7500m),NorthBC(22/10,4300m)

routememo:
  Note: dates for camp sites are approimate and based on data from French Annapurna I expedition.


  Christian Trommsdorf - Dec 2007

  ...It is actually quite a funny story: we (Yannick Graziani, Patrick Wagnon and myself) first climbed the West Ridge of Singu Chuli, stayed three nights on the top to acclimatise, then came back to BC down crossing below the foot of the South Face of Roc Noir, where we left a deposit at 6000m. We then came back in ultra-light style (no sleeping bags, just the inside of a North Face VE25, three ice screws and 1x50m rope and 25 chapatis which we never ate, if I remember well). The first day we went from BC (4300m) to our deposit (6000m) which was safe on a small rocky outcrop just at the foot of the Roc Noir South Face. A complex route, it helped to have come down that way. The second day we rested and started to climb that South Face late afternoon (access very prone to serac fall for maybe 20 min.). We climbed half the night to about 6800m and bivvied on a small serac on the left. The third day we climbed the rest of the face up to 7500m, we did a very very uncomfortable bivvy just below the crest under a rock; on the ridge the north wind was way too strong. Our route basically goes straight up the Roc Noir South Face, and exits maybe 200m on the left of the Roc Noir summit (which is not clearly detached from the rest of the ridge); it is a 45- to 60-degree snow and ice slope. The fourth day the morning was windstill, we crossed horizontally towards the East Summit of Annapurna 1, staying at 7500m. The wind became very strong again at midday, and with our insufficient acclimatisation plus very bad night there was no chance of making it to the top of the A1 East Summit. We crossed horizontally at 7500m until the North Ridge of A1 east, where we hit a steep may be 150m wall (west face of the ridge) and we bivvied again, hoping maybe the next day things would be easier (less windy); it turned out to be one of our worst nights ever, the storm broke our tent poles, and without sleeping bags it was a 'little' chilly. The next morning the storm was the same and we were totally fucked (as you say in literary English), so we climbed down the North Ridge of A1 East. At 6400m, by pure chance and luck (other would say by some superior sense for route finding...) we hit the fixed ropes and last camp of the French A1 anniversary expedition (with Profit and organised by Terray's son). We followed their ropes and flags down to their BC which we reached late the same day (extremely high serac fall danger at around 5800m on a little plateau you cross...).

  We were a little astonished not to meet any of them in the high camps, but to find them enjoying life in base camp, although Christophe Profit seemed a little restless...

  They were evenly surprised to see us, as they knew we were on the sanctuary side, and their L.O. (we hadn't expected that useless bastard to sit in BC) insisted on making some photos of us. Anyway, even though we were still aspirant guides, and not members (as they all were) of the universally acclaimed "Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix," they were kind with us and gave us some real food, and hosted us for a day's rest. But Patrick had a plane to catch and I had clients to meet in Kathmandu, so we had to rush to get back to Pokhara. So the next day, for me the worst of the whole journey as I had developed an angina, we did a nice little 20 hour trek in our big Everest boots (there were no trekking boots for sale at BC!) to Lete, first village on the Annapurna circuit. There was a surprising amount of uphill hiking, maybe 1500 vertical meters, and we did't know the way so we got lost in the jungle. We ended up with the worst blisters ever...and thoroughly enjoyed the rest of the trek back to Beni.


expid: PYRM07301
peakid: PYRM
year: 2007
route1: SW Face
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Tone Skarja
sponsor: Slovenian Kangbachen Expedition
ascent1: 3rd
approach: Taplejung->Ghunsa->Ramtang Glacier->Pangpema
bcdate: 2007-10-09
smtdate: 2007-10-24
termdate: 2007-10-28
campsites: BC(09/10,4940m),Biv1(21/10,6900m),Biv2(22/10),Biv3(23/10),Smt(24/10)
agency: Wilderness Experience
primid: KANB07301
othersmts:
  Recon Kangbachen (KANB-073-01), climbed two Drohmo subpeaks (DROM-073-01), attempted Kirat Chuli (KIRA-073-01) and Ramtang Chang (RAMC-073-01)

routememo:
  Slovenian Kangbachen Expedition  - 7 November 2007

  (Useful maps: Nepal Map "Trekking Around Kangchenjunga" and HMG map "Jhinsan Peak" sheet No. 2788-01)

  The expedition attacked the following peaks:

  1. Unnamed peak (6630m/21,172 ft) north of Pangpema, west of Pathibhara Chuli.

  2. Drohmo (6881m/22,575 ft) north of Pangpema, west of Pathibhara Chuli.

  3. Pathibhara Chuli, aka Pyramid Peak, (7140m/23,425 ft) on Tibetan border north of Kirat Chuli.

  4. Kirat Chuli, aka Tent Peak, (7362m/24,154 ft) south of Kangchenjunga Glacier, southwest of Pangpema, northwest of Ramtang Peak.

  5. Chang Himal, aka Wedge Peak, (6802m/22,316 ft) south of Kangchenjunga Glacier, southwest of Pangpema, northwest of Ramtang Peak.

  The expedition planned to attempt Kangbachen or failing that, Kirat Chuli. Their approach march was from Taplejung up Tamur River to Ghunsa Khola past Ramtang village to the opening of the Ramtang Glacier.

  On 8 October, they went two kilometers east-southeast up the Ramtang Glacier and found a big lake and rock falling off of the ridges to their left and right. Beyond the lake, the terrain was very rocky, and they decided to forget about Kangbachen.

  On the 9th, they went back to the mouth of the Ramtang Glacier, continued up the Ghunsa Khola to Lhonak and east on north side of the Kangchenjunga Glacier to Pangpema, where they made their BC at 4940m for Kirat Chuli.

  On the 11th, they made an acclimatization trek north of Pangpema. On the 14th-16th, more acclimatization to an unnamed 6630m peak: Lorencic and Valic summited it via its SW Ridge on the 16th.

  Next the 6855m middle summit of Drohmo was attacked by Cuder and Kladnik via its SE Face, which was bare rock at the foot but higher up it was all ice and 60 degrees steep. They reached this summit on 16 October.

  On 21 October they began their final reconnaissance of Kirat Chuli. Cuder and Kladnik, with a Sherpa carry, put up tents for ABC at 5600m to attack the mountain's West Face via the same route unsuccessfully attempted by Slovenian team in autumn 2000 and autumn 2002. On the 22nd they went to 5800m to the bottom of the face, and stopped there. On their return to BC, they reported that the route was impossible: there was knee-deep snow and avalanching. The decision was taken not to try to climb Kirat Chuli.

  At the same time Lorencic and Valic went east from Pangpema on 21 October into the West Kangpo Glacier for a climb of Pathibhara Chuli by its SW Face. They bivouacked that day at 6900m below the rock step. On the 24th they reached the summit up the 1100m high face, then 60 degrees of mixed rock, ice and snow. They descended to 5600m that day and on the 25th were back in Pangpema BC.

  Meanwhile Kozelj and Sorn attacked Ramtang Chang, which is across the Kangchenjunga Glacier from Pangpema (i.e., it is on the south side). On the 21st they bivouacked at 5600m. On the next day they climbed to 6700m up the 70-degree North Face, which was rock covered by soft snow. Because of the poor snow condition, they abandoned the climb and returned to BC the same day.

  Now back to Drohmo. Kladnik, Kozelj and Sorn climbed the East Peak (6695m). On 24 October they bivouacked at 5900m and on the 25th they scaled its 900m South Face of mixed rock, ice and snow, at places 60 degrees steep. They were on the summit and returned to BC that day.

  They had now finished their climbing, and they left BC on the 28th to return to Kathmandu.

  Skarja observed that the glaciers in this area were very difficult from the Nepalese side of the border mountains, not such a big problem on the Sikkimese/Indian side but dangerous.


expid: KANB07301
peakid: KANB
year: 2007
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Tone Skarja
sponsor: Slovenian Kangbachen Expedition
approach: Taplejung->Ghunsa->Ramtang Glacier->Pangpema
bcdate: 2007-10-09
smtdate: 2007-10-24
termdate: 2007-10-28
agency: Wilderness Experience
othersmts:
  Climbed two Drohmo subpeaks (DROM-073-01) and Pathibhara Chuli (PYRM-073-01), attemped Kirat Chuli (KIRA-073-01) and Ramtang Chang (RAMC-073-01)

routememo:
  Slovenian Kangbachen Expedition  - 7 November 2007

  (Useful maps: Nepal Map "Trekking Around Kangchenjunga" and HMG map "Jhinsan Peak" sheet No. 2788-01)

  The expedition attacked the following peaks:

  1. Unnamed peak (6630m/21,172 ft) north of Pangpema, west of Pathibhara Chuli.

  2. Drohmo (6881m/22,575 ft) north of Pangpema, west of Pathibhara Chuli.

  3. Pathibhara Chuli, aka Pyramid Peak, (7140m/23,425 ft) on Tibetan border north of Kirat Chuli.

  4. Kirat Chuli, aka Tent Peak, (7362m/24,154 ft) south of Kangchenjunga Glacier, southwest of Pangpema, northwest of Ramtang Peak.

  5. Chang Himal, aka Wedge Peak, (6802m/22,316 ft) south of Kangchenjunga Glacier, southwest of Pangpema, northwest of Ramtang Peak.

  The expedition planned to attempt Kangbachen or failing that, Kirat Chuli. Their approach march was from Taplejung up Tamur River to Ghunsa Khola past Ramtang village to the opening of the Ramtang Glacier.

  On 8 October, they went two kilometers east-southeast up the Ramtang Glacier and found a big lake and rock falling off of the ridges to their left and right. Beyond the lake, the terrain was very rocky, and they decided to forget about Kangbachen.

  On the 9th, they went back to the mouth of the Ramtang Glacier, continued up the Ghunsa Khola to Lhonak and east on north side of the Kangchenjunga Glacier to Pangpema, where they made their BC at 4940m for Kirat Chuli.

  On the 11th, they made an acclimatization trek north of Pangpema. On the 14th-16th, more acclimatization to an unnamed 6630m peak: Lorencic and Valic summited it via its SW Ridge on the 16th.

  Next the 6855m middle summit of Drohmo was attacked by Cuder and Kladnik via its SE Face, which was bare rock at the foot but higher up it was all ice and 60 degrees steep. They reached this summit on 16 October.

  On 21 October they began their final reconnaissance of Kirat Chuli. Cuder and Kladnik, with a Sherpa carry, put up tents for ABC at 5600m to attack the mountain's West Face via the same route unsuccessfully attempted by Slovenian team in autumn 2000 and autumn 2002. On the 22nd they went to 5800m to the bottom of the face, and stopped there. On their return to BC, they reported that the route was impossible: there was knee-deep snow and avalanching. The decision was taken not to try to climb Kirat Chuli.

  At the same time Lorencic and Valic went east from Pangpema on 21 October into the West Kangpo Glacier for a climb of Pathibhara Chuli by its SW Face. They bivouacked that day at 6900m below the rock step. On the 24th they reached the summit up the 1100m high face, then 60 degrees of mixed rock, ice and snow. They descended to 5600m that day and on the 25th were back in Pangpema BC.

  Meanwhile Kozelj and Sorn attacked Ramtang Chang, which is across the Kangchenjunga Glacier from Pangpema (i.e., it is on the south side). On the 21st they bivouacked at 5600m. On the next day they climbed to 6700m up the 70-degree North Face, which was rock covered by soft snow. Because of the poor snow condition, they abandoned the climb and returned to BC the same day.

  Now back to Drohmo. Kladnik, Kozelj and Sorn climbed the East Peak (6695m). On 24 October they bivouacked at 5900m and on the 25th they scaled its 900m South Face of mixed rock, ice and snow, at places 60 degrees steep. They were on the summit and returned to BC that day.

  They had now finished their climbing, and they left BC on the 28th to return to Kathmandu.

  Skarja observed that the glaciers in this area were very difficult from the Nepalese side of the border mountains, not such a big problem on the Sikkimese/Indian side but dangerous.


expid: KIRA07301
peakid: KIRA
year: 2007
route1: W Face
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Tone Skarja
sponsor: Slovenian Kangbachen Expedition
approach: Taplejung->Ghunsa->Ramtang Glacier->Pangpema
bcdate: 2007-10-09
smtdate: 2007-10-22
termdate: 2007-10-28
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to deep snow and avalanching
campsites: BC(09/10,4940m),ABC(21/10,5600m),xxx(22/10,5800m)
agency: Wilderness Experience
primid: KANB07301
othersmts:
  Recon Kangbachen (KANB-073-01), climbed two Drohmo subpeaks (DROM-073-01) and Pathibhara Chuli (PYRM-073-01) and Ramtang Chang (RAMC-073-01)

routememo:
  Slovenian Kangbachen Expedition  - 7 November 2007

  (Useful maps: Nepal Map "Trekking Around Kangchenjunga" and HMG map "Jhinsan Peak" sheet No. 2788-01)

  The expedition attacked the following peaks:

  1. Unnamed peak (6630m/21,172 ft) north of Pangpema, west of Pathibhara Chuli.

  2. Drohmo (6881m/22,575 ft) north of Pangpema, west of Pathibhara Chuli.

  3. Pathibhara Chuli, aka Pyramid Peak, (7140m/23,425 ft) on Tibetan border north of Kirat Chuli.

  4. Kirat Chuli, aka Tent Peak, (7362m/24,154 ft) south of Kangchenjunga Glacier, southwest of Pangpema, northwest of Ramtang Peak.

  5. Chang Himal, aka Wedge Peak, (6802m/22,316 ft) south of Kangchenjunga Glacier, southwest of Pangpema, northwest of Ramtang Peak.

  The expedition planned to attempt Kangbachen or failing that, Kirat Chuli. Their approach march was from Taplejung up Tamur River to Ghunsa Khola past Ramtang village to the opening of the Ramtang Glacier.

  On 8 October, they went two kilometers east-southeast up the Ramtang Glacier and found a big lake and rock falling off of the ridges to their left and right. Beyond the lake, the terrain was very rocky, and they decided to forget about Kangbachen.

  On the 9th, they went back to the mouth of the Ramtang Glacier, continued up the Ghunsa Khola to Lhonak and east on north side of the Kangchenjunga Glacier to Pangpema, where they made their BC at 4940m for Kirat Chuli.

  On the 11th, they made an acclimatization trek north of Pangpema. On the 14th-16th, more acclimatization to an unnamed 6630m peak: Lorencic and Valic summited it via its SW Ridge on the 16th.

  Next the 6855m middle summit of Drohmo was attacked by Cuder and Kladnik via its SE Face, which was bare rock at the foot but higher up it was all ice and 60 degrees steep. They reached this summit on 16 October.

  On 21 October they began their final reconnaissance of Kirat Chuli. Cuder and Kladnik, with a Sherpa carry, put up tents for ABC at 5600m to attack the mountain's West Face via the same route unsuccessfully attempted by Slovenian team in autumn 2000 and autumn 2002. On the 22nd they went to 5800m to the bottom of the face, and stopped there. On their return to BC, they reported that the route was impossible: there was knee-deep snow and avalanching. The decision was taken not to try to climb Kirat Chuli.

  At the same time Lorencic and Valic went east from Pangpema on 21 October into the West Kangpo Glacier for a climb of Pathibhara Chuli by its SW Face. They bivouacked that day at 6900m below the rock step. On the 24th they reached the summit up the 1100m high face, then 60 degrees of mixed rock, ice and snow. They descended to 5600m that day and on the 25th were back in Pangpema BC.

  Meanwhile Kozelj and Sorn attacked Ramtang Chang, which is across the Kangchenjunga Glacier from Pangpema (i.e., it is on the south side). On the 21st they bivouacked at 5600m. On the next day they climbed to 6700m up the 70-degree North Face, which was rock covered by soft snow. Because of the poor snow condition, they abandoned the climb and returned to BC the same day.

  Now back to Drohmo. Kladnik, Kozelj and Sorn climbed the East Peak (6695m). On 24 October they bivouacked at 5900m and on the 25th they scaled its 900m South Face of mixed rock, ice and snow, at places 60 degrees steep. They were on the summit and returned to BC that day.

  They had now finished their climbing, and they left BC on the 28th to return to Kathmandu.

  Skarja observed that the glaciers in this area were very difficult from the Nepalese side of the border mountains, not such a big problem on the Sikkimese/Indian side but dangerous.


expid: RAMC07301
peakid: RAMC
year: 2007
route1: N Face
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Tone Skarja
sponsor: Slovenian Kangbachen Expedition
approach: Taplejung->Ghunsa->Ramtang Glacier->Pangpema
bcdate: 2007-10-09
smtdate: 2007-10-22
termdate: 2007-10-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to poor snow conditions
campsites: BC(09/10,4940m),Biv(21/10,5600m),xxx(22/10,6700m)
agency: Wilderness Experience
primid: KANB07301
othersmts:
  Recon Kangbachen (KANB-073-01), climbed two Drohmo subpeaks (DROM-073-01) and Pathibhara Chuli (PYRM-073-01), attemped Kirat Chuli (KIRA-073-01)

routememo:
[cell repeats an earlier one in this file: 3659 characters]


expid: ANN207401
peakid: ANN2
year: 2007
route1: NW Ridge via Annapurna IV's NW Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Philipp Kunz
sponsor: Winter 2007 Season's Expedition
approach: Besisahar->Marshyangdi River->Hongde->BC
bcdate: 2008-01-16
smtdate: 2008-02-04
termdate: 2008-02-08
campsites: BC(16/01,5000m),ABC(28/01,5800m),Biv(31/01,4600m),Biv(02/02,7400m),C1(03/02,7600m),Smt(04/02)
achievment: 1st winter and 1st German ascent
agency: Yala Adventure
routememo:
  BC  on moraine north of mountain
  ABC on glacier
  Biv on rocks near bottom of NW Face of Annapurna IV
  Biv on NW Face
  C1  on NW Face.

  First German Winter Annapurna II Expedition  - 20 Feb 2008

  The team had originally planned to pitch six camps above BC, but that was not possible because of lack of places to put camps. Instead they made an advance base camp, two bivouacs and one high camp.

  They arrived at BC on 16 January at 5000m on moraine north of the mountain, but strong wind and heavy snowfall prevented them from climbing higher for days. However the three climbing Sherpas did manage to make a route that didn't get obliterated by bad weather, and after they had fixed rope to ABC, Kunz occupied it with them on 28 January at 5800m on the glacier at the foot of Annapurna IV, which abuts Annapurna II.

  Above ABC they made two bivouacs at 6600m and on the 6th were back in BC. Their only other fixed camp was pitched on 3 February at 7600m on the NW Face, and from here Kunz and the three Sherpas climbed to the NW Ridge and summited the next morning. They left the camp at 5:00 am on the 4th, were on the top very tired at 10:20 am and descended to the site of their second bivouac at 7400m at 5:30 pm.

  On the 5th they went down to 6000m and on the 6th were back in BC.

  The route was not easy: the most difficult part was over mixed rock and ice that was 55 degrees steep in places above 7100m. They used 20 ice screws, and also a number of snow bars just below the summit.

  Because of the very cold weather, fixing any rope was a hard work, but the Sherpas managed to fix 2500m of it in the areas where they had their two bivouacs, which were at 6600m and 7400m. Kunz said that it would have been [easier] if there had been more Sherpas to share the job of fixing rope so that the three men would not have become so very tired. The team had no bottled oxygen with them.

  Summit Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Wangel, 19/8/66 (3/5/2023), Nurbugaon, Makalu-5, Makalu 13/5/01,
      Manaslu 10/5/02, Everest 29/5/04
    Lhakpa Thinduk, 17/4/63 (4/1/2020), Upper Walung, Makalu-9, 
      summited trekking peaks only
    Temba Nuru, 27/4/80 (15/1/2037), Tashigaon, Makalu-5, no previous summits


expid: MAKA07401
peakid: MAKA
year: 2007
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Romano Benet
sponsor: Nives Meroi Makalu Expedition
approach: Plane to Lukla and chopper to place 20 minutes below Barun Pokhari
bcdate: 2008-01-13
smtdate: 2008-01-28
termdate: 2008-02-11
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to wind's destruction of BC and gear and food
campsites: BC(13/01,5600m),C1(27/01,6500m),xxx(28/01,7000m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Italians on Makalu led by Romano Benet - 13 February 2007

  The team was plagued by strong winds -- there were only two days, the 16th and 27th of January, when there was no wind.

  The three Italians did all their climbing together. On 16th January, they moved from BC to the for their C1 at 6500m meters, about 100m above the Kazakhstani's C1, and deposited gear there but did not erect their tent. Then back to BC again.

  On 27 January they succeeded in reaching C1, pitched their tent and slept that night there. On the 28th, they climbed to 7000m meters to a couloir in the rock band. It was so cold this day that Meroi's eyelashes were freezing together, and she constantly had to rub them open; her left thumb became numb from the cold. They descended to BC that day.

  This turned out to be their high point. They waited at BC for better weather to enable them to resume climbing, but it did not materialize. On 9 February the wind decided for them about abandoning their climb: it blew their BC tents from their ropes; tore them to pieces and scattered and broke their sleeping bags, food and gear. They spent all day searching the area to recover what they could; even a crampon had been broken when the wind lifted a stone and smashed it against the crampon.

  They left BC on 11 February to retreat their camp near Barun Pokhari. Between the two camps, the wind at her back pushed Meroi between two large rocks and caused her to fall against one of them, breaking her right ankle; Benet and Vuerich had to carry her on their backs over difficult moraine the rest of the way. They were evacuated by helicopter to Kathmandu on the 12th, and Meroi was taken directly to hospital. She expected to stay till about the 16th, when she hoped to fly back to Italy for an operation on her ankle.

  The team fixed no rope. The Kazakhstanis did, and they also used 200 meters of rope that Benet and Meroi had left there in their attempt on Makalu last autumn.


expid: MAKA07402
peakid: MAKA
year: 2007
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Kazakhstan
leaders: Denis Urubko
sponsor: Kazakhstanis to Makalu
approach: Plane to Lukla and chopper to Tangma (4650m) below Barun Pokhari
bcdate: 2008-01-13
smtdate: 2008-02-02
termdate: 2008-02-04
termnote: Abandoned at 7480m due to fierce wind
campsites: BC(13/01,5600m),C1(16/01,6400m),xxx(02/02,7480m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  BC at high BC
  C1 at Chago Glacier.

  Kazakhstanis on Makalu led by Denis Urubko - 12 Feb 2007

  From their base camp at 5600m, on 16 January the four members moved up to C1 at 6400m and next day three members, Samoilov, Shutov and Urubko, bivouacked at 6800m to acclimatize. They made no fixed camp here because the windy weather would probably have damaged it in their absence. They descended to BC on the 18th and rested there.

  Durov did not join them in their climb on the 17th because of stomach trouble. He never went above C1.

  On the 22nd all down to the so called Hillary BC near Barun Pokhari (lake) to breathe air with more oxygen in it -- they had no bottled oxygen with them. Next day they were back in BC.

  On the 25th, back to C1. Next day Shutov returned to BC because he was too cold.  On the 27th, Samoilov and Urubko climbed to 7200 meters, where Samoilov had to turn back because he had not acclimatized well; he and Urubko also returned to BC.

  The weather was perfect at this time -- no wind, no clouds -- and it remained so for about two days. Perfect climbing weather.

  On the 31st, Samoilov, Shutov and Urubko, climbed to 6700m and bivouacked there. On 1 February they continued up and reached the Makalu La at 7400m. The sky was clear, but now strong wind was blowing. "We flew one by one to the Makalu La," said Urubko. They were roped together so "flew" only a couple of meters. They moved over onto the north side of the NW Ridge, and spent the night there about 50 meters below the ridge on a small ledge which they reached in the dark at about 7:00 pm.  They slept sitting up on this ledge in half of a tent.

  Next day, 2 February, they tried to continue their ascent to the summit. They moved 200 meters along a gully which was like a horizontal couloir, but it gave little protection from the fierce wind. They managed to gain perhaps 80 meters more altitude -- certainly less than 100 meters -- but the wind was blowing at about 120 km/hr. They were again roped together, but again they "flew" two or three meters.

  They now turned back and descended all the way to BC that day on good firm snow. The climb was over: the weather forecast was for another week of strong wind, and the team had a fixed departure date from Nepal of the 13th.

  They had fixed a total of 350 meters of rope in 50 meters sections below the Makalu La. They were also able to use 200 meters of rope that they found in place.


expid: PUMO07401
peakid: PUMO
year: 2007
route1: SE Face
nation: France
leaders: Herve Argenson
sponsor: Pumori Nepal 2008
approach: Lukla->Namche->Khumjung->Tengboche->Dingboche->Lobuje->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2008-02-02
smtdate: 2008-02-09
termdate: 2008-02-11
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to Sherpa guide Ngima Geljen not wanting to climb due to risk of avalanche
campsites: BC(02/02,5300m),C1(05/02,5800m),xxx(09/02,6400m)
agency: Trinetra Adventure
routememo:
  On 9 Feb climbing towards C2, Argenson, Augier, Mrs Augier, Ngima Geljen (guide), Ngima Nuru and Jangbu Sherpa reached to 6400m. Ngima Geljen (guide), who was in the lead, told the members that it will be very risky to go beyond 6400m as there is a big risk of avalanche. Sherpa guide Ngima Geljen took the decision to stop climbing and all descended to BC. The expedition members are very sad and angry, especially Argenson, about the decision of Sherpa guide. 

  The team returned Kathmandu on 13 Feb and will leave on 22 Feb from Kathmandu.

  Sherpas:
    Ngima Geljen, 31/8/86, Ghat, Ama Dablam 2004, 2005, 2006, 
      Everest 2004, 2006, 2007, Lhotse 2005, Pumori 2005
    Ngima Nuru, 19/6/67, Chaplung, Pumori 2006
    Jangbu, 19/9/79, Kharikhola, Everest 2003, 2004, 2007


expid: CHOY07369
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Adele Pennington
sponsor: Independent on Cho Oyu
approach: from Xixabangma BC
bcdate: 2007-10-03
smtdate: 2007-10-10
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2007-10-12
campsites: ABC(03/10,5650m),C1(04/10,6400m),C2(08/10,7150m),C3(09/10,7500m),Smt(10/10)
agency: None
routememo:
  Independent on Cho Oyu: Ms Adele Pennington - 28 March 2008

  Ms. Pennington first climbed Xixabangma, then on 2 October left Xixabangma and drove to Cho Oyu. Arrived at ABC on 3 October. On 4 October she reached C1, where she met the Jagged Globe/Summit Nepal Trekking team (on their permit). She asked Sherpas to leave a tent for her at each camp.

  She returned to ABC on 5 Oct. She paid Sherpas with Alex Abramov (Russian) "lots of money" to carry one oxygen bottle (had left other one at C3).

  She began her summit push on 7 October, when she returned to C1. On the 8th she climbed to C2 in four hours. On the 9th she reached C3, and on the 10th she went for the summit.

  She left C3 at about 1:30 am (Chinese time), perhaps an hour after Abramov's team had started up. She had "a little epic when my head torch bulb blew, but managed to put a new one in." She reached the top at about 6:00 am, half an hour or one hour after Abramov's team had gotten there [6:45 am], she thinks. When it was pointed out to her that her times did not jibe with Abramov's times, she said she doesn't pay much attention to the time; these are the best she can do.

  She met a Sherpa carrying an oxygen bottle for her as he was on his way down with the Abramov party. She carried on to the summit, saw Everest and Lhotse clearly and took some pictures of her teddy bear.

  In her descent, she caught up with the Abramov team. She dug out the tent at C3, carried her gear down to C2, collected more equipment, and arrived at C1 at 4:30 pm "very tired. Drank a can of beer and went to sleep." On the 11th, she hired two Tibetans to carry her equipment to ABC, where she "enjoyed the hospitality of the Russians."

  On the 12th, she hired the same Tibetans to accompany her to the road-head at BC. It "seemed like an eternity" getting there. From BC she "got transport and drove to the border."

  "A great adventure."

  She had started using oxygen when she left C3 for the summit. She used it to the top and then in her descent from the summit used it intermittently back to C3, where she stopped using it. (She used it only intermittently because she had never used it before and she didn't like it -- it was uncomfortable and obscured her view.)


expid: AMAD07342
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Saeed Toossi
approach: Lukla->Namche->BC
bcdate: 2007-10-22
smtdate: 2007-10-29
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2007-11-01
campsites: BC(22/10),ABC(24/10,5100m),C1(25/10,5500m),C2(27/10,5320m),Smt(29/10)
agency: Ang Rita Treks
routememo:
  Spent 2 nights in C1 and C2 to acclimatize. Left C2 at 2:30 am, on top 12:30 pm, and back to C2 at 7:30 pm (had slowed down from C3 site upwards). Weather was clear with steady wind on top.

  Arrived in KTM to get to mountain on 12 Oct; to Lukla on 14 Oct.

  Sherpa:
    Nima Kancha, 19/7/75, Pare, Ev 18/5/06


expid: AMPM08101
peakid: AMPM
year: 2008
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Olaf Rieck
sponsor: Khumbu 2008 to Amphu I
ascent1: 1st,2nd
approach: Lukla->Namche->Phortse->Pangboche->Chhukung village
bcdate: 2008-04-10
smtdate: 2008-04-20
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2008-04-26
campsites: BC(10/04,4990m),C1(15/04,5700m),Smt(20-21/04)
achievment: 1st and 2nd known ascents
agency: Multi Adventure
routememo:
  BC at west side of Lake
  C1 at start of steep ice section of NW Ridge.

  Khumbu 2008 to Amphu Middle led by Olaf Rieck - 2 May 2008

  Rieck calls his mountain Amphu Middle because he sees it as the middle of three unnamed mountains on the Schneider Khumbu map. It actually is the northern one of these three, which are in the northeastern corner of the Chhukung Glacier, according this map; at 6205m high, east of it, and 6146m high, south of it. Rieck had the Tourism Ministry's permit to climb a 6840m mountain it calls Amphu I, which is east-southeast of Rieck's three and due east of the Schneider map's Amphu Labtsa.

  His team flew from Kathmandu to Lukla on 3 April and trekked via Namche Bazar, Phortse, Pangboche, Dingboche and Chhukung village. They arrived at Chhukung on 9 April and next day searched for and found a good BC site southeast of Chhukung on the west side of a small lake at 4990m east of the north end of the Ama Dablam Glacier.

  On the 11th and 12th the members ferried their loads from Chhukung to BC. They had no Sherpas with them. On the 13th they reconnoitered a site for their only high camp C1 which they pitched on the 15th at 5700m at the start of the NW Ridge's steep ice section. On the 14th they had started making the route above BC along the northern edge of the Chhukung Glacier, and on the following days, the 16th to the 20th, they made the route to the NW Ridge and up the ridge to the summit, the last section of it, mixed ice, snow and rock, as Rieck and Graeber climbed to the summit. They fixed a total of 1400m of rope all the way from 5400m (on the edge of the glacier) to the top.

  Rieck and Graeber left C1 at 7:00 am on the 20th and gained the summit slowly, as they had to fix the route, at 3:00 pm. They abseiled down to C1 at 6:30 pm.

  On the 21st the remaining four members left C1 for the top at 7:00 am. At 10:30 am at 5950m, Morche turned back because she was getting too cold in the light wind while she had to wait for two ahead of her to move slowly; and she returned to C1 at 12:00 noon at the same time as Jahn, Mehlhase and Pech reached the top. The three took time to descend to C1 because they removed fixed ropes while coming down; they were in C1 at 6:30-7:00 pm. The team had found no traces of any previous climbs.

  The rest of the rope was removed from the mountain on the 22nd and 23rd; they had a hard and time-consuming job to retrieve all of it. But they were lucky to have fine weather from Chhukung to the mountain and back to Chhukung. All members went down together to BC on the 23rd. On the 26th they went from BC to Chhukung, were in Lukla on 1 May and Kathmandu on the 2nd.


expid: BARU08101
peakid: BARU
year: 2008
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Fabrice Gilot
sponsor: Baruntse Expedition Spring 2008
approach: Lukla->Tangnag->Khare->Mera La->Seto Pokhari->BC
bcdate: 2008-04-13
smtdate: 2008-04-16
termdate: 2008-04-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to blue ice on West Col
campsites: BC(13/04,5445m),ABC(14/04,5700m),C1(16/04,6200m),xxx(16/04,6200m)
accidents: Sepulchre suffered from sub-cerebral edema
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  Babic, Gilot and Mingma tried to go for high camp on 17 April. After walking about 100-150m Babic faced problem with his loose crampons. Team found that West Col was full of blue ice and not possible to cross it. Then, the team decided to give up further climbing and descended to BC. The weather was good. The team did not have enough time to wait for few more days.

  Sepulchre suffered from high altitude sickness and evacuated from BC to Lukla by helicopter on 14 April. French doctor in Lukla told Sepulchre that he has sub-cerebral edema and not to go back to mountain. 

  Witteveen and sirdar of Expedition Sherpas had to go to Seto Pokhari on 14 April with oxygen to help one of the returning porters who was sick. Witteveen returned to BC on the evening of 15 April. There was not enough time for Witteveen to go for climbing. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 29 April and will leave on 1 May.

  Fixed rope: 220m from ABC to C1.

  Sherpa:
    Mingma Sherpa, 20/01/78 (7/10/2034), Phortse


expid: DHA108101
peakid: DHA1
year: 2008
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Martin Minarik
sponsor: Dhaulagiri I
ascent1: 131
approach: Pokhara by road to Darbang->Sibang->Muri->Bagora->Dobang->Myagdi Khola
bcdate: 2008-03-24
smtdate: 2008-04-23
smttime: 2000
termdate: 2008-04-25
campsites: BC(24/03,4860m),C1(28/03,5900m),C2(10/04,6600m),C3(11/04,7250m),Smt(23/04)
accidents: Frostbite on right foot during 23/24 April (3 toes first frozen on Lhotse April 2006)
agency: Iceland Trekking (Tendi)
routememo:
  BC at Chhorbarang Glacier at normal site
  C1 at NE Col
  C2 on NE Ridge
  C3 on NE Ridge.

  30 March to BC and stayed 8 days while snow falling: 9 April back to C1, 10 Apr to C2 and 11 Apr to C3, then 12 Apr to BC. Up again 19 Apr to C2, 21 Apr to C3, 22 Apr with no gear except sleeping bag to 7250m in shelter under rock (very windy till middle of night). 23 Apr with just down clothes went into couloir (lot of snow in couloir) and then left to summit. On top at 8:00 pm of 24 Apr, back to BC at 3:00 am of 25 Apr. 25 Apr to Hidden Valley east of French Pass; 26 Apr to Jomsom and 27 Apr flew Jomsom to KTM.

  Made no attempt to climb from north as originally planned, as not feasible for one climber.


  6 May 2008 - David Goettler (Kaltenbrunner's expedition) said he saw tracks up from the traverse and through couloir which he believes must have been made by Minarik; they could not have lasted from last autumn.


expid: DINS08101
peakid: DINS
year: 2008
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kenro Nakajima
sponsor: Spring 2008 Season's Expedition
ascent1: 1st?
approach: (see route notes)
bcdate: 2008-03-07
smtdate: 2008-03-15
smttime: 1035
termdate: 2008-03-16
campsites: BC(07/03,4970m),C1(10/03,5435m),Smt(15/03)
accidents: Yamamoto bad headache at summit
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Approach: Thame->Bhote Koshi->Chhule->Thengbo Khola->Pangbuk Glacier->Menlung Glacier

  BC at Menlung Glacier east of point 5762m
  C1 at foot of SE Face.

  From BC up SE Face to foot of East Ridge, where placed C1. 11 March down to BC and returned to C1 14 March and went day to top. Left C1 3:00 am and on top 10:35 am (ridge difficult).


  Japanese Dingjung Ri expedition, Spring 2008 - 24 March 2008

  From Lukla, team trekked to Thami, up Bhote Kosi River to Chhule village, west up Thengbo Khola to Menlung Glacier (HMG's Namche Bazar map) aka Pangbuk Glacier (Schneider Rolwaling map). BC was pitched on 7 March at 4970m on the glacier east of HMG map's point 5762m.

  C1 was occupied on 10 March at 5435m at foot of SE Face. They returned to BC on the 11th for two days rest, then back to C1 on the 14th.

  From C1, the two members climbed the face to 5900m and from there up the East Ridge to the summit. The face was fairly steep (50 degrees) loose rock and therefore somewhat difficult. (In their first attempt last spring, the face was covered by snow, but there was no snow on it this year). The ridge was covered in ice.

  They fixed 200 meters of rope on the face from 5600m to 5750m because of falling rock. They fixed no more rope on the mountain, even on the more difficult sawtooth East Ridge, which was perhaps 40 degrees steep; some of its teeth were sharp, others were rounded off.

  The two members left C1 for the top at 3:00 am on 15 March, were on the summit together at 10:35 am and returned to C1 at 6:30 pm, tired but happy at their success. The weather on the summit day was very good: no wind, no clouds.


expid: KAKU08101
peakid: KAKU
year: 2008
route1: W Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Peter Athans
sponsor: 2008 Mt. Kang Kuru Expedition
ascent1: 1st?
approach: (see route notes)
bcdate: 2008-04-13
smtdate: 2008-04-16
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2008-04-17
campsites: BC.Biv(13/04,4000m),Biv1(14/04,5000m),Biv2(15/04,5300m),Smt(16/04)
achievment: 1st ascent
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  Approach: Jomsom->Kagbeni->Samar->Bhena->Shyangmochen->Ghami->west along Dhuya Khola

  Biv on glacier.

  From Jomsom, the two climbers went north to Kagbeni, Samar, Bhena and Shyangmochen to Ghami village. At Ghami, which they reached on 12 April, they trekked west along the Dhuya Khola and on 13 April made their first bivouac for their climb at 4000m. The next day, they bivouacked farther west near the khola at 5000m. On 15 April, they made their final bivouac south-southeast of the khola on glacier at 5300m.

  From this last bivouac at 4:00 am on 16 April, Athans and Hessler climbed the West Ridge. The ridge was partly knife-edge rock with some snow cover at a steepness of 45-50 degrees and occasional rock steps, but no belays were necessary. They were on the summit at 10:30 am and descended to 5000m to sleep.

  On the 17th they retraced their steps to Ghami village and on the 18th they were back in Jomsom.

  The climb had not been difficult and they had fixed no rope. The hardest part had been finding access to the mountain and getting their gear in place, but did not need to retreat from any false approaches.

  The team saw no other people after they had left Ghami. They were entirely alone with an unattempted mountain to find their way up.


expid: TILI08101
peakid: TILI
year: 2008
route1: NE Spur-N Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Bernard Milian
sponsor: Tilicho French Expedition
ascent1: 32nd
approach: Besisahar->Jagat->Dharapani->Pisang
bcdate: 2008-04-12
smtdate: 2008-04-24
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2008-04-26
campsites: BC(12/04,4800m),C1(15/04,5300m),C2(23/04,6200m),Smt(24/04)
agency: Khumbu Shangri-La Nepal
routememo:
  Laurens couple, Milian, Tashi and Mingma Gyalzen left C2 at 5:15 am on 24 March. The team reached on summit at 4 pm and stayed on summit about 30 minutes. Descended to C2 at 10 pm. Next day to BC. The weather was very good, no wind, no clouds. 

  The team returned Kathmandu on 28 April and will leave on 1 May.

  Sherpas:
    Tashi Chhiring Sherpa, Rolwaling, 3/09/78, summited Everest twice
    Mingma Gyalzen Sherpa, (14/4/2038=29/07/81), Namche-3, Everest N in Spring 2007 
      with Indian team?


expid: EVER02145
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Wang Tian-Han
bcdate: 2002-03-11
smtdate: 2002-05-17
smttime: 1000
campsites: BC(11/03,5200m),ABC(11/04,6500m),C1(24/04,7028m),C2(15/05,7900m),C3(16/05,8300m),Smt(17/05)
agency: None
routememo:
  Translated notes from various Chinese web sites:

  Wang Tian-Han, 6 June 1974, is a native of the mountainous region of Sichuan province.

  He became a Buddhist monk at the age of 18 in Wu Tai, a mountain famous for its many Buddhist temples. For the past six years he has been studying Buddhist teachings as a monk in Beijing. From June 1999 to June 2000, he traveled to all of the provinces of China except for Taiwan by foot.

  Before his attempt of climbing Everest, he had been to no high peaks before, and had no snow and ice experience. He received little sponsorship for this expedition to Everest besides some help from his sister and personal friends.

  Wang Han gave three reasons for wanting to climb Everest:

  (1) for the realization his own personal spiritual belief.
   
  (2) to support the Chinese policy of development in the western regions and assist peoples living at high altitudes.

  (3) to stimulate the domestic development of mountain sports.

  Preparations:
   
  To achieve his goals, he made some advance preparations: Last year he came to Lhasa looking for the opportunity to understand Everest. After New Year's Day of this year he came again to Lhasa from Beijing to train with his 59-year old coach Rinchen Phuntsok from the Tibetan Mountaineering Association (TMA).

  On March 11 he arrived at Everest base camp at 5200m with Rinchen Phuntsok. For one month, he learned to use his mountaineering equipment on many of the peaks surrounding base camp, and gained experience with the techniques of climbing. Then he proceeded to ABC at 6500m arriving on April 11 where he spent about a month. On April 24, he established his second camp at the North Col at 7028m.

  Unable to afford to employ Sherpas as porters, he carried his own personal gear from ABC to the North Col five times. On his first carry he tried to carry 40 kg, but the weight was far too much for him. He then reduced his loads to 20 kgs. Many climbers were very impressed by his stamina and said that he was as strong as a Sherpa.

  On May 15 Wang went to his next camp at 7900m, to 8300m on May 16, and then made his summit attempt on May 17. Since he needed oxygen for his summit, he hired a Sherpa to carry 3 bottles to 8300m for 800 yuan (US$ 100).

  Summit Day:

  At 3:00 am on May 17 Wang started from the 8300m camp, behind the other climbers (who started earlier at 2:00 am). He gradually passed them and reached 8500m (the First Step). Unable to see the path to the top, he lost his way and waited for nearly an hour for others to come up. He then continued to climb. At about 12:15 he arrived at the summit where he spent nearly two hours. He left the summit at 14:10 and then returned to the 8300m high camp at 17:00 and spent the night there.

  He saw Cho Oyu, Makalu, and other peaks from the summit, and felt that they were very low. At the Second Step, he did not use any jumars and climbed the aluminum ladder with his bare hands. During descent, he again used no jumars, but instead he wound the rope around his arm and went down the ladder. On May 18 he returned to ABC at 6500m and then to BC on May 20.

  He is very grateful for the help of his teacher Rinchen Phuntsok.

  Future goals:

  Mountaineering: If the conditions allow, to summit Lennart Meri to fulfill the wish of his teacher Rinchen Phuntsok.

  Life: to promote his own beliefs, and to engage in public service.


expid: CHOY04125
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: China
leaders: A-Hu
sponsor: Shenzhen Sungang
bcdate: 2004-04-24
smtdate: 2004-05-11
smttime: 1215
campsites: BC(24/04,4950m),ABC(26/04,5650m),C1(28/04,6050m),C2(7150m),C3(8900m),Smt(11/05)
agency: None
routememo:
  Campsites dates and altitudes are estimates taken from original climbing plan.

  Team summited 11 May at 2:30 pm CST (12:15 pm NST).


expid: EVER06198
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Ahu
smtdate: 2006-05-14
campsites: xxx(14/05,8700m)
agency: None
routememo:
  Translated notes from various Chinese web sites:

  Climbers from the 2006 China Afterhours Expedition to Qomolungma & First Mongolian Women's Expedition led by Nima Tsering dispute the claimed summit by Ahu on May 14, 2006.
   
  Because Ahu was Chinese and was attempting to summit on the same day as his own team, Nima Tsering was concerned about Ahu's climbing and tracked his progress up the mountain by radio contact with other climbers from ABC at 6500m.

  Ngawang Norbu and Nima's team left their high camp (8300m) at 2:00 (CST) in the early morning hours. Ngawang said that they passed Ahu and his assistant Laba at the First Step (8500m).  Ngawang and his team summited around 11:00 (CST). On their descent at 14:30, Ngawang, Phurbu Dhondup, and Tashi Tsering encountered Ahu at 8700m below the Third Step. Laba was no longer with him. Ahu seemed very weak and was out of oxygen. They told him that it was too late to continue to the summit and that he should turn down. But Ahu did not listen to them. Then they continued their descent downward to their high camp and reached it at 19:00.

  A few days later Ahu claimed that he summited at 16:00 on 14 May and returned to the 7790m camp at 18:00, bypassing the 8300m camp and therefore not seen by the members of Nima's team.

  Nima's guides state that it was impossible for Ahu to summit at 16:00 and return to 7790m at 18:00, while their team summited at 11:00 and returned to 8300m at 19:00. Ahu said that he did not have any summit photos because Laba was carrying the pack with the cameras and camcorders and Laba did not summit with him.


expid: CHOY00332
peakid: CHOY
year: 2000
route1: NW side
nation: China
leaders: Chen Jie
sponsor: Beijing team
smtdate: 2000-09-21
smttime: 1143
agency: None
routememo:
  From Chinese web sites:

  At 13:58 (CST) on September 21, 2000, Beijing amateur athlete in this business successfully climbed Cho Oyu summit, with the top of their meters are small. This is the first amateur mountaineering top of over 8000m peak by an individual athlete with safe return.


  September 2000, Friends of mountain climbing Cho Oyu Chen Jie successful; it is the Chinese civil mountain climbing enthusiasts the first-class 8000m success and safe return of the summit.


expid: AMAD08101
peakid: AMAD
year: 2008
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Piotr Morawski
sponsor: MBank West Face Annapurna Expedition
countries: Slovakia
bcdate: 2008-03-23
smtdate: 2008-04-03
termdate: 2008-04-06
othersmts: Attempted Annapurna I (ANN1-081-01)
campsites: BC(23/03,4600m),C1(26/03),C1(30/03),C2(31/03),C3(02/04),Smt(03-04/04)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  MBank West Face Annapurna Expedition led by Piotr Morawski - 7 May 2008

  To acclimatize for Annapurna I, the team went first to Ama Dablam to climb its normal SW Ridge route. They pitched BC on 23 March at the normal site at 4600m and ten days later two members were on the summit. They had made C1 on 26 March, gone down to BC on 28th, returned to C1 on the 30th, slept in C2 on 31 March, and in C3 on 2 May. Hamor and Morawski summited on the 3rd, Pustelnik and Zaluski on the 4th. All descended to BC together on the 5th, left BC on the 6th and returned to Kathmandu on the 9th.

  They had no Sherpas and no oxygen with them and had no accidents, illness or frostbite. They fixed 1000m of new rope on the route, which Pustelnik found "technically very challenging." He is surprised that there are so few accidents on it and that commercial expeditions climb it. For at least 35m it is Grade VI, and he fell a couple of times when the brittle stones slipped off under his feet.

  Then they went to Annapurna I and its NW Face. They left Kathmandu on 12 April for Pokhara and helicoptered from there to BC on the 15th. BC was pitched at 4200m at the lower (northern) BC site (Pustelnik called it the Herzog BC site) and next day they began to look for a good line up the mountain.

  On the 18th they made ABC at 5000m under the NW Face. C1 was pitched on the 23rd at 5500m, across the glacier from ABC. To reach it, they crossed under a huge serac to a small gully, where they camped. During teh night they heard a loud bang, and when they looked out of their tents the next moring, there was no ABC tent to be seen but a large hole had appeared in an existing crevasse. Pustelnik joked that a UFO had taken their tent away and left the hole; he couldn't explain in any other way what actually had happened.

  C1 was their first of four camps on the NW Face. They made C2 on the 25th at 6300m and C3 the next day at 6700m in a crevasse under overhanging rock. They then spent three nights here while light snowfall was blown about in spindrift that got into their tents. They were able to move up again on the 29th; they took with them the minimum possible amount of gear for their final push to the summit, and C4 was really a bivouac at 7800m at the top of the face just five meters below the SW Ridge.

  On the 30th the four members together made their bid for the summit along the SW Ridge, which they had joined north of Varaha Shikhar (Fang), and at noon they were at 7950m, 150 vertical meters (250 linear meters) from the summit. But they could proceed no farther: the wind was fierce, snow was falling, and lightning was striking the mountain and several times hit them mildly -- "it was really unpleasant," said Pustelnik. At 7:00 pm, they had to bivouac above C4 because the turbulent wind-driven snow made almost white-out conditions.

  On 1 May they descended to C3 and the next day were back in BC. "We were tired" so had no chance to resume their climb. They left BC on 7 May when a helicopter picked them up from there and brought them to Kathmandu.

  They had fixed a total of 350 meters of rope: 250m below C2 and 100m more above C3. No Sherpas, no oxygen, no health problems except for some slightly frostbitten fingers.

  Pustelnik doesn't understand why so few climbers use this route since it much safer than the avalanche-swept north and south Faces.


expid: AMAD08102
peakid: AMAD
year: 2008
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Anvar Shangaraev
sponsor: Omsk-Georgian Ama Dablam Expedition 2008
countries: Georgia
approach: Namche->Tengboche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2008-04-26
smtdate: 2008-05-23
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2008-05-24
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
campsites:
  BC(26/04,3900m),ABC(30/04,5100m),C1(04/05,5600m),C2(10/05,6000m),Russian xxx(10/05,6000m),Georgians C3(22/05,6200m),Smt(23/05)

routememo:
  One comment: C2 has enough space for 8-10 tents.

  Fixed rope is very old.

  The weather was not favorable: snowing every day and melting which made climbing very small.

  Russians did not have time for second summit attempt, so left expedition as woman members wanted to go home. This left the Georgians members to climb alone to summit.

  The weather conditions were very bad, strong wind; started on 23 May from C3 at 07:00 am. Bidzina reached summit at 11:00 and waited for his son Irakli who summited at 12:00; they came back to C3 at 14:30. Levan Mushkudiani reached 6400m in summit bid and returned to BC due to health conditions.

  Earlier summit bid by all 3 Georgians, but turned back 14-15 May, weather bad and down to BC Pangboche.


expid: AMAD08103
peakid: AMAD
year: 2008
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Dmitri Grekov
sponsor: Kyrgyz Ama Dablam Expedition 2008
countries: Kyrgyz Republic, Uzbekistan
approach: Namche->Tengboche->Pangboche->C1
bcdate: 2008-05-03
smtdate: 2008-05-19
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2008-05-21
campsites: BC(03/05,4600m),ABC(04/05,5100m),C1(05/05,5600m),C2(10/05,5800m),C3(18/05,6200m),Smt(19/05)
achievment: 1st Kyrgyz expedition
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC  at above Pangboche
  ABC all team members
  C2  all team members
  C2  and back to Pangboche.

  09 May - 7 members went to 5600m. 
           Boystsov stayed in Pangboche due to health condition. 
           Lavrenchenkov became sick on 11 May and went to Pangboche.
  16 May - 6 members went to 5100m
  17 May - 5800m
  18 May - 6200m
  19 May - started from C3 at 7 am, reached summit one by one from 12:00 to 14:00. 
           Came back to C3 at 17:00 one night, 20 May reached BC.

  Bondarenko stayed in C3 overnight but didn't continue up; to Pangboche alone.


expid: AMAD08104
peakid: AMAD
year: 2008
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Richard Manson
sponsor: Manson Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 2008-05-15
smtdate: 2008-05-19
termdate: 2008-05-19
termnote: Abandoned at 4950m due to loss of rucksack that fell down from below C2
campsites: BC(15/05,4320m),C1(17/05,4750m),C2(19/05,4950m),xxx(19/05)
agency: Alliance Treks & Expeditions
routememo:
  On 19 May Manson was following his Sherpa from C1 to C2, who was ahead and fixed the camp. Pemba Dorje said he called BC and asked about Manson who did not turn up at C2. Pemba was told that Manson left BC for Pangboche. As told to Pemba by Manson, Manson while climbing up towards C2, tried to pull up his rucksack by rope about below 100m of C2. Suddenly the carabinier hooked the rope and the rucksack loosened and the rucksack fell down. The sack contained money, camera besides others his passport as well. So he left the mountain without telling the Sherpa. Manson returned to Kathmandu on 25 May. No idea about his departure.

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Dorje (aka Nawang Thile), 16-17/2/53 (4-5/11/2008), Beding, Everest X4, 
      Cho Oyu X8, etc.


expid: ANN108101
peakid: ANN1
year: 2008
route1: NW Face-SW Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Piotr Morawski
sponsor: MBank West Face Annapurna Expedition
countries: Slovakia
bcdate: 2008-04-15
smtdate: 2008-04-30
termdate: 2008-05-07
termnote: Abandoned at 7950m due to bad storm
othersmts: Climbed Ama Dablam (3-4 April) (AMAD-081-01)
accidents: Slight frostbite on Annapurna I
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
campsites:
  BC(15/04,4200m),ABC(18/04,5000m),C1(23/04,5500m),C2(25/04,6300m),C3(26/04,6700m),C4(29/04,7800m),xxx(30/04,7950m)

routememo:
  BC at 4200 m
  ABC below NW Face
  C1 on face
  C2 on face
  C3 on face
  C4 on face 5m below SW Ridge
  High point at SW Ridge.

  To acclimatize for Annapurna I, the team went first to Ama Dablam to climb its normal SW Ridge route. They pitched BC on 23 March at the normal site at 4600m and ten days later two members were on the summit. They had made C1 on 26 March, gone down to BC on 28th, returned to C1 on the 30th, slept in C2 on 31 March, and in C3 on 2 April. Hamor and Morawski summited on the 3rd, Pustelnik and Zaluski on the 4th. All descended to BC together on the 5th, left BC on the 6th and returned to Kathmandu on the 9th.

  They had no Sherpas and no oxygen with them and had no accident, illness or frostbite. They fixed 1000M of new rope on the route, which Pustelnik found "technically very challenging;" he is surprised that there are so few accidents on it and that commercial expeditions climb it. For at least 35m it is Grade VI, and he fell a couple of time when the brittle stones slipped off under his feet.

  Then they went to Annapurna I and its NW Face. They left Kathmandu on 12 April for Pokhara and helicoptered from there to BC on the 15th. BC was pitched at 4200m at the lower (northern) BC site (Pustelnik called it the Herzog BC site) and next day they began to look for a good line up the mountain.

  On the 18th they made ABC at 5000m under the NW Face. C1 was pitched on the 23rd at 5500m, across the glacier from ABC. To reach it, they crossed under a huge serac to a small gully, where they camped. During teh night they heard a loud bang, and when they looked out of their tents the next moring, there was no ABC tent to be seen but a large hole had appeared in an existing crevasse. Pustelnik joked that a UFO had taken their tent away and left the hole; he couldn't explain in any other way what actually had happened.

  C1 was their first of four camps on the NW Face. They made C2 on the 25th at 6300m and C3 the next day at 6700m in a crevasse under overhanging rock. They then spent three nights here while light snowfall was blown about in spindrift that got into their tents. They were able to move up again on the 29th; they took with them the minimum possible amount of gear for their final push to the summit, and C4 was really a bivouac at 7800m at the top of the face just five meters below the SW Ridge.

  On the 30th the four members together made their bid for the summit along the SW Ridge, which they had joined north of Varaha Shikhar (Fang), and at noon they were at 7950m, 150 vertical meters (250 linear meters) from the summit. But they could proceed no farther: the wind was fierce, snow was falling, and lightning was striking the mountain and several times hit them mildly -- "it was really unpleasant," said Pustelnik. At 7:00 pm, they had to bivouac above C4 because the turbulent wind-driven snow made almost white-out conditions.

  On 1 May they descended to C3 and the next day were back in BC. "We were tired" so had no chance to resume their climb. They left BC on 7 May when a helicopter picked them up from there and brought them to Kathmandu.

  They had fixed a total of 350 meters of rope: 250m below C2 and 100m more above C3. No Sherpas, no oxygen, no health problems except for some slightly frostbitten fingers.

  Pustelnik doesn't understand why so few climbers use this route since it much safer than the avalanche-swept north and south faces.


expid: ANN108102
peakid: ANN1
year: 2008
route1: N Face
nation: Slovakia
leaders: Jan Matlak
sponsor: Slovak Army Expedition to Annapurna I
bcdate: 2008-04-03
smtdate: 2008-04-29
termdate: 2008-05-06
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to serious avalanching and route impassable
campsites: BC(03/04,4300m),ABC(08/04,5050m),C1(14/04,5330m),C2(28/04,6500m),xxx(29/04,6700m)
agency: Nepal Trans Himalayan Explorer
routememo:
  BC at normal N Face site
  C1 at normal C1 site for N Face
  High point below NW Ridge.

  Slovak Army Expedition to Annapurna led by Jan Matlak - 14 May 2008

  Expedition arrived at BC at 4300m on 3 April and made an ABC at 5050m. because otherwise C1 would be too far from BC, and from BC it was not possible to see the route and the summit, whereas they could be seen from ABC.

  Their route from BC to their high point was basically the same as the German 1980 route. But they went no higher than 6700m because of serious avalanching.

  They first occupied C1 on 14 April at the site for C1 on the normal N Face route (French 1950 route). C1 was destroyed on 16 April and again on 30 April/1 May, when no one was in the camp. They made a new C1 following the first hit and from it they occupied C2 on 28 April.

  The team had been joined on 22 April by the two-member Czech-Slovak Annapurna team led by Roman Langr. These two went to ABC on 24 April and C1 on 28 april; Mrava turned back to ABC on the 29th because of pain in his knee while Langr joined Matlak's members in C2 on the 29th and went with three of them, Namcok, Supica and Svancar, to the high point of 6700m that day.

  The route was impassable above 6700m because the two large couloirs to their right and left contained big seracs, and snow and ice avalanches were coming down from the buttress farther right. The summiters went down to C2 and spent the nights of the 29th and 30th there and were back in BC on 1 May.

  Snow had been falling and piling up every afternoon in late April. Finally, a big avalanche from the buttress hit C2's two tents at 8:00 pm on 30 April and swept them down 300m. It hit the tent occupied by Da Temba and Dendi Sherpas with greater force. While the members in their tent at C2 were not hurt, the Sherpas in the other tent were seriously injured. Dendi was partly buried in an ice cave and stuck there all night with a fractured right arm and frozen toes, while Da Temba's ankle was sprained and he suffered chest and head contusions; a few days after the accident, he lost the sight in his right eye, which apparently was due to his head injuries. The two Sherpas were evacuated from BC to Kathmandu.

  The expedition had fixed 1000m of rope from BC to C2.

  Sherpas:
    Da Temba, 29/12/84, Gudel-4, Solu, no 8000ers
    Dendi Sherpa, 25/11/72 (10/8/2029), Sanam, Gudel, Everest X2


expid: ANN108103
peakid: ANN1
year: 2008
route1: N Face
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Roman Langr
sponsor: Annapurna I Czech Slovakian Expedition
countries: Slovakia
bcdate: 2008-04-22
smtdate: 2008-04-29
termdate: 2008-05-06
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to serious avalanching and route impassable
campsites: BC(22/04,4300m),ABC(24/04,5050m),C1(28/04,5630m),C2(29/04,6500m),xxx(29/04,6700m)
agency: Nepal Trans Himalayan Explorer
routememo:
  Annapurna I Czech-Slovakian Expedition -14 May 2008 led by Roman Langr

  The team had originally planned to climb Everest from Tibet. But they learned when they arrived in Kathmandu that Tibet was definitely closed to climbers until the Olympic torch had reached the summit in May, so they decided to go to Annapurna I instead.

  The Slovakian army Annapurna I team led by Jan Matlak was already on the mountain. The two men in Kathmandu talked with Matlak by satellite phone, and it was agreed that Langr and his teammate Miroslav Mrava could join the army team, share tents, food, etc. and climb together.

  Langr and Mrava reached BC on 22 April. They moved up the mountain rapidly; they had no problem about acclimatizing quickly. They were in ABC on 24 April and went together to C1 on the 28th. But now Mrava had a painful knee -- it was not a serious condition, but instead of going higher, he retreated to ABC on th 29th.

  On the 29th Langr joined army members in moving up, reached the high point of 6700m with them, returned to C2 with them, and all descended to BC on 1 May.

  For further details, see report on Matlak's Slovakian army expedition.


expid: ANN108104
peakid: ANN1
year: 2008
route1: S Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Ueli Steck
sponsor: Annapurna I Expedition 2008
approach: North from Pokhara
bcdate: 2008-05-05
smtdate: 2008-05-22
termdate: 2008-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to call for rescue attempt of Inaki Ochoa
othersmts: Climbed Parchamo (6 May) and Tengkangpoche (TKPO-081-01)
campsites: BC(05/05,4200m),Biv1(14/05,4800m),Biv2(15/05,5900m),xxx(15/05,5900m);Ochoa.rescue(22/05,7400m)
agency: Royal Orchid Treks
routememo:
  BC  at right side of South Annapurna Glacier
  Biv on glacier below South Face
  Biv on South Face east of Bonington route
  High point at 2nd bivouac.

  Annapurna I Expedition led by Ueli Steck - 26 May 2008

  Before attempting Annapurna I, the two Swiss climbers, Ueli Steck and Simon Anthamatten, went to Khumbu and climbed two smaller mountains as warm ups. They flew to Lukla on 29 March, trekked via Namche Bazar, Thami, and Thami Khola to Thengpo village, where they had their BC in a lodge. On 2 April they trekked westwards to Tashi Laptsa pass at 5800m and back to BC the same day. They returned to Tashi Laptsa on the 5 and slept there. On 6 April they climbed Parchermo via its North Ridge to its 6187m summit and returned to BC.

  Now they turned to Tengkangpoche, which had been successfully climbed only once before, in an unauthorized ascent by a British-American team in the autumn of 1984 via its East Ridge from the south. They approached from the north, where nine teams had failed from 2002 to 2006 on various northern lines. The Swiss tackled its North Face and made their first attempt on 10 April, when they went from BC to 5500m and bivouacked there. On the 11th they got to 6000m, and then falling snow and wind drove them back to BC.

  Now they took a rest to wait for better weather. They went to Namche for yak steaks on the 14th and returned to BC on the 15th. A week later they made their summit push of Tengkangpoche in just four days: from BC on 21 April they went up to 5100m on the North Face and bivouacked there. The next day they were at 5600m; on the 23rd they surmounted the 85 degree last section of their line on the North Face to reach the summit ridge, the West Ridge, at 6350m and made their last bivouac there. They went to the top on 24th April and were back in BC the same day.

  On 28 April they flew from Lukla to Kathmandu and the next day flew to Pokhara for their climb of Annapurna I. Steck said in Kathmandu on 28 March, when they had just arrived in Nepal, that he expected their alpine-style ascent via a difficult unclimbed line on the South Face, east of the Bonington route, to the East Ridge to the top and back to BC would take them a total of eight days, and they would return to Kathmandu about 20 May. But in the end, they sacrificed their summit chances by the serious altitude sickness of Inaki Ochoa, and they were late getting back to Kathmandu.

  From Pokhara they trekked north and arrived at BC on 5 May at 4200m in a rocky area on the right side of the South Annapurna Glacier at the same site as that of his spring 2007 attempt. After some bad weather, on 14 May they climbed from BC to bivouac at 4800m on the glacier below the South Face, and on the 15th they bivouacked at 5900m on the face, but from 12:00 noon there was heavy snowfall and wind, and they had to go to BC on the 16th to be safe from avalanching and wait for good weather.

  When they were still in BC on the 19th Steck received a telephone call from Horia Colibasanu, the Romania member of the team led by Spaniard Inaki Ochoa at the far eastern end of the the South Face, saying that both of them were in trouble and asking for help. Colibasanu was extremely tired and his voice was not very clear on the satellite phone, but Steck could make out that Ochoa had frostbitten fingers and (this was not very clear) maybe cerebral edema.

  The two Swiss had no high altitude equipment at BC, but 9:00 pm on 19 May they packed up some medicine (Ochoa and Colibasanu had none with them) and started up the mountain via Ochoa's route. Two Sherpas from Ochoa's BC showed them the way up the face from C1. At 4:00 am on the 20th on their way to C2, they had to stop because they could not see in the dark and the Sherpas had gone back to BC. At 6:00 am in daylight they started up again and reached Ochoa's C2 at 5800m at 1:00 pm. But now they were in clouds and snow was falling. Part of the route from C1 to C2 was fixed, and all of the way between C2 and C3 had been fixed, but there was avalanching in the afternoons, and they slept in C2 that night.

  On the 21st they got to C3 at 6800m at about noon, and then stopped again because of new snowfall and the heat was causing avalanches. They would be unable to reach C4 that day. Furthermore, they did not have the proper shoes and heavy down jackets for higher altitudes. But Alexei Bolotov, a Russian member of the expedition led by Sergei Bogomolov, climbed to 6800m on the 21st, and he gave his boots to Steck in exchange for Steck's lighter shoes.

  So on the 22nd Steck climbed alone to C4 at 7400m on the East Ridge. It took him eight hours to reach C4 because a lot of new snow had fallen, and Colibasanu earlier had to break trail for Steck on the ridge to C4. They met on the ridge, and Steck learned that Colibasanu had cerebral edema. Steck gave him some medication, Colibasanu got better and continued down to C3, where he met Anthamatten, while Steck went along the ridge to C4 and got there at about 4:00 pm on the 22nd. He found Ochoa seriously ill with both cerebral and pulmonary edema.

  Ochoa immediately recognized Steck and spoke to him, but his speech was not clear. His mind "came and went," and he was not moving at all. Steck spent the night of the 22nd/23rd with him, gave him injections and sips of water. On the 23rd he was a little better and managed to ask for coffee; coffee was not available but Steck gave him an energy bar and water. Ochoa's condition deteriorated: he became unable to speak or move at all. When he stopped breathing, Steck pressed his chest and got him breathing again, but at 12:10 pm his head snapped back: Ochoa was dead.

  The weather was bad again on the 23rd so Steck was unable to descend. He moved Ochoa's body out of the tent, where it remains, and spent the night there. On the 24th Steck went down all the way to his own BC. He is attempt to climb Annapurna I was clearly over.

  In the meantime, Anthamatten, who had gone down to C3 when Steck had gone up to C4, had roped Colibasanu to himself and on the 23rd they had gone down to C2, where a helicopter picked up them and one of Ochoa's Sherpas on the 24th and dropped them off at about 4100m, the spot marked on most maps as Annapurna South Base Camp; Ochoa's BC was there. They stayed there that night. The next day, the 25th, Steck arrived, and on the 26th Steck and Anthamatten flew by helicopter to Pokhara and by scheduled flight to Kathmandu.


expid: ANN108105
peakid: ANN1
year: 2008
route1: S Face-E Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Inaki Ochoa
sponsor: Annapurna South Face Expedition
countries: Canada, Romania, USA
bcdate: 2008-03-16
smtdate: 2008-05-19
termdate: 2008-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7850m due to frostbite
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
campsites:
  BC(16,26/03,4130m),C1(c20/03,4800m),C2(20/04,5900m),C3(16/05,6850m),C4(17/05,7400m),C5(18/05,7800m),xxx(19/05,7850m)

routememo:
  BC at Annapurna BC lodge
  High point at traverse on North Face just below the last ridge.

  Annapurna South Face Expedition - 25 May to 4 June 2008 led by Inaki Ochoa.

  Ochoa said on 7 March after his arrival in Nepal that his line up the South Face would be either the route climbed by Tomaz Humar (Slovenian) in the autumn of 2007, or the one pioneered by Jerzy Kukuczka and Arthur Hajzer (Polish) in the autumn of 1988, both at the far eastern end of the face to the East Ridge. When moving westward toward the main summit after having reached the ridge, he would not try for the east and middle summits but instead would traverse below them on the North Face. (He noted that he has been called an 8000m peak bagger, but he does not do standard routes; he has only Annapurna I and Kangchenjunga still to climb).

  Tragically, he died before he could finish his ascent of Annapurna. Following are accounts by others who were with him, either members of his team or a would-be rescuer.

  Report from Horia Colibasanu, Romanian climbing member of Ochoa's team, and Ms Nancy Morin, Ochoa's base camp manager and girl friend:

  On 16 March, team member Don Bowie arrived at BC at the Annapurna Base Camp lodge, called Snowland Lodge, (4130m) with the "Sherpa" Jagat Bahadur Limbu, who had been on Annapurna in autumn 2007 with Slovenian Tomaz Humar to the foot of the South Face and the start of his line up the face. Jagat was taken along to show Bowie the route on the glacier as far as C2 (but Ochoa and Colibasanu actually found the team's route). Bowie set up C1 at 4800m on the 20th or 21st of March.

  Ochoa and Colibasanu arrived at the BC lodge on 26 March and on 10 April took equipment to the C1 at 4800m. On the 12th they tried to find a route to C2, but the terrain was too complicated and had a huge crevasse; they would need to fix rope on the glacier. So they couldn't get to the camp's site that day. They turned back at 5500m and went to BC.

  On the 14th Bowie and on the 15th Ochoa and Colibasanu went up to C1 and moved it to 4900m, closer to the South Face. On the 16th they went up to 5750m on a big rock formation west of the South Annapurna Glacier and fixed some rope, then back to C1. On the 17th, up to 5900m and down  to C1 and BC in this period of working on the route in this area. Finally on 20 April they made C2 at 5900m and Bowie descended to BC that day, while Ochoa and Colibasanu went to the Polish (Kukuczka/Hajzer) route on the face at its far eastern end, where the Russian team's Alexei Bolotov had already started fixing the route and had put in 400m of rope.

  The period from 21 April to 15 May was spent making the route in rotation with the Russians (led by Sergei Bogomolov), going down to rest, and waiting for the bad weather to improve.

  On the 7th of May the three members of Ochoa's team went up from BC to C2. The next day, Bowie decided to go down again because he thought the weather forecast was not favorable. Ochoa and Colibasanu had to go down with: he could not go down safely alone, so the three men went to BC on the 8th. On the 9th, they realized that they had to split the team.

  Ochoa and Colibasanu waited for a good weather forecast, and on the 15th the went up to C2, on the 16th to C3 at 6850m, and on the 17th they reached the East Ridge and moved along it westwards for four kilometers to make a bivouac at C4 at 7400m. On the 18th they moved the tent to 7800m as C5 and traversed on the North Face.

  On 19 May, Ochoa, Colibasanu and Bolotov (who was the only member of his expedition still on the mountain) started for the summit at 4:00 am. They reached the ridge coming down from the east summit on the north side, and here, at 7850m, Ochoa stopped because they needed to fix rope. While Bolotov continued up and reached the main summit, Ochoa and Colibasanu started to return to C5. Ochoa's fingers of his left hand had gotten frostbitten while jumaring here, so he moved faster and returned to C5 at 5:30 am. He was very tired and went to sleep; when he woke up at 11:00 am, he showed Colibasanu that his fingers were blue.

  He decided he had to go on down and Colibasanu agreed to descend with him. They reached C4 at about 4:30 pm. Both were extremely tired, and Ochoa now lost consciousness. Colibasanu telephoned to doctors for a diagnosis and to the Swiss climber on Annapurna, Ueli Steck, to come and help them. Ochoa could no nothing for himself and talking gibberish. The diagnosis was cerebral edema.

  Colibasanu met Steck on 22 May on the N Face traverse to show him the route, but Colibasanu was too tired to return to C4 with Steck. Besides there was no food there. So Colibasanu went down aloen to C3, where he found Steck's teammate Simon Anthamatten. They descended to C2 on the 23rd and from there a helicopter took them to BC. They left BC on the 26th.


  Report of Ueli Steck, Swiss leader of his own two-man team:

  When Steck and Anthamatten had returned to their Annapurna BC on the 19 May, Steck received a telephone call from  Horia Colibasanu, the Romanian member of Ochoa's team on the far eastern end of the South Face, saying that both of them were in trouble on the East Ridge and asking for help. Colibasanu was extremely tired and his voice was not very clear on the satellite phone, but steck could make out that Ochoa had frostbitten fingers and -- this was not very clear -- maybe cerebral edema.

  The two Swiss had no high-altitude equipment at BC, but at 9:00 pm on 19 May they packed up some medicine (Ochoa and Colibasanu had none with them) and started up the mountain via Ochoa's route. Two Sherpas from Ochoa's BC showed them the way up the face from C1. At 4:00 am on the 20th on their way to C2, they had to stop because they could not see in the dark and the Sherpas had gone back to BC. At 6:00 am in daylight they started up again and reached Ochoa's C2 at 5800m at 1:00 pm. But now they were in clouds and snow was falling. Part of the route from C1 to C2 was fixed, and all of the way between C2 and C3 had been fixed, but there was avalanching in the afternoons, and they slept in C2 that night.

  On the 21st they got to C3 at 6800m at about noon, and then stopped again because of new snowfall and the heat was causing avalanches. They would be unable to reach Ochoa in C4 that day. Furthermore, they did not have the proper shoes and heavy down jackets for higher altitudes. But Alexei Bolotov, the Russian member of the expedition led by Sergei Bogomolov who had summited and descended to his C3 at 6800m on the 21st, gave his boots to Steck in exchange for Steck's lighter shoes.

  So on the 22nd Steck climbed alone to C4 at 7400m on the East Ridge. It took him eight hours to reach C4 because a lot of new snow had fallen, and Colibasanu earlier had to break trail for Steck on the ridge to C4. They met on the ridge, and Steck now learned that Colibasanu had cerebral edema; Steck gave him some medication, Colibasanu got better and continued down to C3, where he met Anthamatten, while Steck went along the ridge to C4 and got there at about 4:00 pm on the 22nd. He found Ochoa seriously ill with both cerebral and pulmonary edema.

  Ochoa immediately recognized Steck and spoke to him, but his speech was not clear. His mind "came and went," and he was not moving at all. Steck spent the night of the 22nd/23rd with him, gave him injections and sips of water. On the 23rd he was a little better and asked for coffee; coffee was not available but Steck gave him an energy bar and water. Ochoa's condition deteriorated: he became unable to speak or move at all. When he stopped breathing, Steck pressed his chest and got him breathing again, but at 12:10 pm his head snapped back: Ochoa was dead.

  Any further attempt by the two Swiss to reach the summit by their own route was now out of the question.


  Report of Don Bowie, Canadian member of Ochoa's team:

  Bowie arrived at BC ahead of Ochoa and Colibasanu: he got there on 18 March and established it at Snowland Lodge at 4130m. On the 21st he made C1 at about 5000m near the moraine, northeast of BC and southwest of the route. He went down to BC on the 22nd to wait for Ochoa and Colibasanu to arrive. They came on about the 26th of March. Now they went up to C1 but did not sleep there during the last days of March. In early April they carried loads to stock C1; at this time Bowie fever and there was some bad weather. In the second week of April they started stocking C2 and established the camp at 5850m at the bottom of the face after Bogomolov's Russian team arrived and started up on Kukuczka's route, whereas Ochoa's route was between the Kukuczka and Humar routes.

  In mid-April Bowie split from Ochoa. He had started climbing with the Russians while Ochoa and Colibasanu were in BC. He worked with the Russians to make their route and slept with them at 6400m in "camp two and half." He also slept one night in the others C3 at 6900m and went down to BC with them. Bowie wanted this acclimatization, but Ochoa and Colibasanu thought this was selfish and unnecessary, and they took his going with the Russians personally. Bowie felt that for him to have gone up to only 5800m and then make a bid for the summit was not enough acclimatization for him.

  Bowie climbed once more with Ochoa and Colibasanu, on 5 May to C2 one day and stayed in C2, but it snowed that day, and the forecast was for more snowfall the next day. They all descended to BC on 6 May. Bowie now felt their movements were not safe, and they disagreed with him, told him that they didn't want to climb with him. They did not climb together again.

  On the 9th, Ochoa and Colibasanu went to C2 and were caught in an avalanching area of the face. They had to return to BC, which Bowie considered vindicated his views.

  Bowie and Daniel Baas went up the Russian's route, reached C1 at 5000m on 14 May and on the 15th their C2 at 5850m. Here Baas stayed while on the 16th Bowie went to the base of the face at 6000m and then found that the daily fresh snowfall had made the mountain unsafe to climb higher alone. He was especially worried about being alone in the fresh snow on the East Ridge, he thought all the Russian climbers had gone by then, not knowing that Bolotov had stayed on. On the 17th they returned to BC, and Bowie's and Baas's climb was finished. They left BC on the 18th to go to Pokhara.

  Bowie stayed in Pokhara awhile. When he heard that Ochoa was in trouble, he volunteered to go back to BC in a helicopter that was going that way with two experienced climbers to help rescue Ochoa. On 21 May he joined the Kazakhstani climber Denis Urubko and Bolotov's team leader Bogomolov, who were in the helicopter rushing from Kathmandu to Annapurna. (Urubko had returned to Kathmandu from Makalu on the 20th and was scheduled to fly out of Nepal on the 21st; Bogomolov had gotten minor frostbite in some fingers on Annapurna I and had returned to Kathmandu on 13 May but was still there.) Unfortunately, they arrived too late to help: they got to 7200m the day Ochoa died.


  Report of Daniel Baas, American film-maker:

  Baas was brought to Annapurna I by Bowie to do some filming. He and Bowie stopped at Snowland Lodge for Baas's camera gear on 19 March. Ochoa and Colibasanu joined them on about 25 March, and everyone waited for good weather. Ochoa, Colibasanu and Bowie climbed together, and Baas found himself "darting around trying to keep up with them" to film them. But he stayed with Bowie as much as he could and left the mountain when Bowie did.


  Letter from Pablo Ochoa de Olza to Elizabeth Hawley - 29 May 2008

  Dear Ms. Hawley:
   
  I am Inaki's brother, Pablo Ochoa de Olza.

  I want to tell you how I feel about some men that you surely know well.
   
  My brother Inaki died dramatically on mount Annapurna last Friday. It would have been one more on that mountain if it was not for a special detail: 15 people from different nations performed a rescue expedition that will be long remembered. A story that will stay as an example of braveness and courage, cooperation, solidarity, manhood and goodwill. A story of real men.
   
  I write to you to explain what these brave men did. You know what you've been told, but humble mountaineers do not explain things like they really are. The real fact is that they are heroes. As simple as that. My brother didn't die like a dog, alone, because Ueli was there. Inaki was not left alone by his good friend Horia until he could do no more and Ueli was almost there, Inaki had someone to give him medicines, water and food because Horia and Ueli were there. Dennis Urubko was speeding up the mountain to rescue his friend down, carrying oxygen to him.
   
  On Monday May the 19th Inaki Ochoa de Olza, sharing expedition with Alexei Bolotov and Horia Colibasanu, got cerebral edema at Camp 4 and an impressive high altitude rescue operations started immediately. Russians, Kazakhs, Swiss, Romanians, Polish, Nepali, Canadian and Spanish started a chrono race to bring Inaki down alive.
   
  These and other courageous men started their way up the mountain as soon as they were told there was someone in danger.
   
  They didn't think of summit, of their personal projects or of the risks they were taking: they just went.
   
  Ueli, after sending his sick friend down when Simon got ill, continued alone, "running" up in deep snow and with a high avalanche risk, knowing each minute counted, knowing that he wouldn't be able to bring Inaki down alone by himself and not knowing weather enough help would come behind to support rescue. Knowing that the real chances of saving Inaki were close to zero. And still they went.
   
  He had to take one of the most difficult decisions ("who do I help?") when he found Horia Colibasanu also sick, creeping his way down to meet him to show him the way to the tent, Horia badly sick as he was, with advanced pulmonary edema and exhausted after 4 nights over 7400m.
   
  Ueli took at all times the right decisions: gave Horia medicines and helped him down the ridge until he was sure he could go on alone to meet Dennis, Simon and others who were on the mountain. Ueli then turned back up and continued to Inaki who recognised him, gave him dexa, diuretics and all he had. Food, drinks, warmth and company to try to keep him alive until the necessary oxygen got there, carried up by strong Kazakh Dennis Urubko. A huge rescue was by then going on, coordinated by all support teams in the homelands of huge climbers like your Swiss men themselves and by our own team back here in Pamplona.
   
  I asked Simon on the phone to tell Ueli to cheer up Inaki even if he was not conscious. Simon told me "don't worry, Pablo, Ueli does that right." Great men they are.
   
  Ueli had probably the worst hours in his life supporting Inaki and even made CPR when he stopped breathing, alone like he was, refusing to accept destiny without giving it a last try. He was holding his life and our hope until the very last moment. He had the horrible job of telling Base Camp through the radio the sad news and had to try to get out of there alive in a strong storm and again with high life risk.
   
  All efforts and all the love, the huge titanic fight against destiny and all the works of these men were simply not enough. And still they have given a lesson to the world.
   
  Simon Anthamatten and Ueli Steck: both of them are Heroes, like the rest of the climbers involved in this rescue, and others who could not go, but wanted and tried to. They are going to stay in our hearts and thoughts forever.
   
  Also Russian climbers Sergey Bogomolov and Alexei Bolotov, Romanians Horia Colibasanu, Minhea Radulescu and Alex Gavan, Canadian Nancy Morin and Don Bowie, Polish doctor Robert Symszack and the Nepali Pema Ongchu Sherpa, Pemba Ongchu Sherpa, Ongchu Sherpa, Wangchu Sherpa and Chhiring Finjo Sherpa started their ways up coordinated by a local support team in Pamplona, Spain, formed by Koldo Aldaz, Jorge Nagore, Cristina Orofino, Koldo Martinez and myself.
   
  Nima Naru Sherpa from Cho Oyu Trekking Pvt Ltd provided means and efforts from Kathmandu and Javier Corripio helped from Austria with his weather forecasts. Many others offered to help on the mountain, like Maxut Zumahyev and others without any money involved...only because they knew Inaki and liked him. Only because they are good men. Valeri, the helicopter pilot took terrible risks to drop some climbers in extremely poor weather conditions, far beyond expectations.
   
  For all that effort and help, for the risk, for the abnegate try of bringing aid to the Spanish climber in an almost impossible quest, the Government of Navarra has awarded them all the Gold Medal to Sports Merits. Only 12 had ever been awarded until last Monday, when they gave two more: one to Inaki, one to Inaki's Rescue team, including your climbers.
   
  This letter is to pay further tribute to the sons of Switzerland, Ueli and Simon, brave men who did not hesitate to risk their lives, their projects and their good health to try to reach the impossible. Very specially, Ueli was our guardian angel. He went beyond the point where the brave turn back. He more than others, gave us hope at all moments under difficulties that many men wouldn't dare to face ever.
   
  Also, it is important that your people, your very normal citizens as well as extraordinary climbers back at home or around the world know for certain what strong climbers you have, what men grow in Switzerland.
   
  My true congratulations to their families, to their friends and to the country able to grow such men. You shall be proud of them.


