# exped

expid: EVER87102
peakid: EVER
year: 1987
route1: N Face (Great Couloir)-W Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Jack Allsup
sponsor: US Everest Expedition 1987
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1987-03-17
smtdate: 1987-05-21
termdate: 1987-05-29
termnote: Abandoned at 8750m due to difficulty in final section of W Ridge
accidents: Various illnesses which caused early departures
agency: Nepal Himal
campsites:
  LowBC(17/03,5120m),ABC(22/03,5600m),C1(28/03,6200m),C2(05/04,6770m),C3(17/04,7560m),C4(12/05,8170m),xxx(21/05,8750m)

routememo:
  LBC at 16,800 ft end of rock
  ABC at 5600m at Central Rongbuk Glacier
  C1  at 6200m at head of Rongbuk Glacier at base of N Face
  C2  at 6770m below the North Col (route has now gone towards Changtse)
  C3  at base of Great Couloir
  C4  just below yellow band next to Australian's 1984 campsite.

  Route from C2 all fixed: 10,500 ft of rope fixed batween C2 and C4 for load carrying and later snowfalls brought avalanches. Route from C1 to shoulder of Changtse's S Face, exactly same route of 1982 US expedition. 

  4 summit attempts above C4; ran into difficulties and fixed 300m of rope above C4 on yellow band and grey band where hard rock (these rock bands had never been climbed before in spring_. Climbed yellow band and grey band to top of Great Couloir and then traversed across summit snowfield to W Ridge at 8750m; had used up all fixed rope by time had topped bands and when on 2nd summit bid [on 21 May by Simonson and Viesturs] needed more rope on W Ridge, had to retreat after having gone up only 25-30 ft [above ?] [Simonson to 8750m, Viesturs to 8720m]. Simonson was on oxygen but Viesturs had chosen not to. 

  On 1st attempt [by Dunn and Wilson on 16 May] fixed yellow band, but ran into more problems than expected here [both to c8400m].

  27th May Dunn and Wilson made 3rd attempt, but Dunn got sick (blacking out) and descended from C4. 

  4th attempt by Allsup, Ann Smith, Nuru and Pasang Tshering still in progress on 28th when Simonson who doubts they got above C4. Last summit push was on 29th May and turned back at c25,500 ft [7770m]; then Smith got sick and party gave up: Allsup, Pasang Tshering and Nuru were also in this party. Now climb over.

  Member's early departure from Everest expedition spring 1987:
    Baumeister (expedition's doctor) left about 25 March; thought he had 
      pneumonia and did not go above low BC.
    Allison left 2 April; got to ABC and then developed altitude problems.
    Breashears left 28 April after having finished his photography.
    East as arranged in advance, arrived late (5 April) and left early (12 May) 
      because of business; got to C2.
    Van Hoy left 27 May to arrange bus transport and have airline bookings confirmed.
    Nobori left 28 May with Simonson, tired.


  David Breashears - 30 April 1987
  (David left BC 28 April)

  Americans on Everest:

  ABC very low: 18,500 ft. Abandoned BC by and large with only Chinese there.

  LO said fixed rope to 7900m C1, C2 and C3 had been established and stocked at about 19,500, 21,000 or 22,000 and 24,000-25,000 feet.

  Craig to BC in mid-April with tooth problem.
  Bob Allison left due to fatigue (not really a climber, went to ABC)
  Baumeister (doctor) never above BC, went home.


expid: EVER87201
peakid: EVER
year: 1987
route1: N Face (Hornbein Couloir)
nation: Spain
leaders: Antonio Ramos Villar
sponsor: Spanish Everest Summer 1987
countries: France
approach: Tingri->Rongbuk
bcdate: 1987-07-05
smtdate: 1987-09-02
termdate: 1987-09-05
termnote: Abandoned at 8700m due to 3rd summit party's failure in deep snow
othersmts: Pt 6800m New Changtse
accidents: 1 member nearly died of edema, 2 serious dysentery and 1 kidney stone attack
campsites:
  BC(05/07,5100m),ABC(10/07,5400m),C1(15-16/07,6150m),C2(01/08,6900m),C3(04/08,7300m),C4(22/08,7900m),xxx(02/09,8700m)

routememo:
  BC at Rongbuk, 300m above 1924 British
  C1 at bottom of North Face
  C2 on North Face
  C3 in cave
  C4 at bottom of Hornbein Couloir
  High point at North Face-West Ridge.

  15 days bad weather after C1 pitched brought lot of avalanching and leader, 1 member and Ang Rita hit by snow avalanche.

  1st summit bid on 22 Aug with Sherpas, but trouble with Sherpas and Ang Phurba fired; [Fraga and Ramos] got to [above] C4 then dangerously heavy snowfall and down without going higher. 2nd attempt only to C1 again Sherpa trouble. 3rd attempt on 2 Sept reached West Ridge, but too deep snow; tried another way but still deep snow. Fraga reached 8400m and Barcenas to 8100m then down with health problems while other 2 got to 8700m; had left ABC 30 Aug and tried for atop from C4. Climb finished now because no strong men left. 3rd attempt without Sherpas because no fixed rope above C3 (had not expected to needed so much; put in 2000m of rope and this not enough).

  Barcenas tried to parachute from slightly above North Col, but air not moving in right direction, so skied from Col under Changtse to C1 on 21 Aug (skis 150 cm long).

  Pierre Beghin joined expedition in early Aug after C3 pitched; he was not expected by Spaniards, but after he came and they talked he joined their effort.


expid: EVER87303
peakid: EVER
year: 1987
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Steve Van Meter
sponsor: American Expedition to N Side of Everest for Autumn 1987
countries: Canada
approach: Mostly via Lhasa from Peking->2 via KTM and Zhangmu
bcdate: 1987-08-13
smtdate: 1987-10-13
termdate: 1987-10-16
termnote: Abandoned at 8200m due to snow storms, fierce winds
accidents: One doctor's stomach ulcer; stomach virus epidemic; 1 mild pulmonary edema
campsites:
  BC(13/08,5120m),IntC(5485m),C1(18/08,5790m),ABC(23/08,6400m),C3(18/09,7000m),C4(27/09,7770m),C5(12/10,8075m),xxx(13/10,8100-8200m)

routememo:
  BC at usual site
  C1 at traditional site (only dump; not slept in)
  C2 still on moraine
  C3 still on moraine (shared with Doug Scott)
  C4 at North Col
  C5 on NE Ridge
  C6 on NE Ridge.

  Snowstorm stuck 23rd Aug and end of first week of Sep. 2nd storm kept climbers immobilized for 2 weeks including avalanching. C4 pitched twice because wind of 27th Sep blew away tent and gear (also blew away tent at C3); 2nd time dug a cave. 

  Oct 10th Steven Strain, Jamieson and Ang Rita occupied C5. 11th stalled needing fuel. Jamieson and Ang Rita down to C3. 13th Strain at 5:30 am left C5 and reached just below First Step where wind picked him up and threw him down three times (got minor frostbite) so alone in C5 that night and on down. That ended climb. Strain couldn't have gone on much more anyway; not fully conscious.

  12 members (11 USA, 1 Canadian) and 2 Sherpas.
  Matous, Jamieson and 3 left BC 16th Oct.
  One doctor left in early Sept with Spaniards because of stomach ulcer 
  Another doctor left BC 6 or 7th Oct - had had enough.


expid: EVER87304
peakid: EVER
year: 1987
route1: S Pillar (USA 1981 rte)
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Peter Hillary
sponsor: Everest 1987
countries: Australia
bcdate: 1987-08-23
smtdate: 1987-09-27
termdate: 1987-11-01
termnote: Abandoned at 8080m due to winds
othersmts: Flanks of Lobuche East
campsites: BC(23/08,5360m),C1(06/09,6000m),C2(10/09,6550m),C3(26/09,7560m),C4(27/09,8080m),xxx(27/09,8080m)
accidents: Logan and Rheinberger frostbite only
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  C1 not quite top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on South Pillar route
  C4 above S Col
  High point above South Col.

  C1 only on 6th Sept because Hanns Schell didn't have his Sherpas make route early (disorganized there). Then snow until 12 Sept and then after that perfect weather until terrible winds of end month and winds never stopped. Michel Dacher made weird route in cwm which was more dangerous than icefall (was right beneath W Shoulder and thence through high crevasse and back under W Shoulder). Then Hillary's team went up Lhotse Face for acclimatization and fixed rope in process. Then down to BC and summit push: Kim and Michael on 25th Sept and Peter and John on 26th from BC. Kim and Michael had bad time making C3 space (were too close to pillar's rock) on 26th and bad night with clouds building up and wind starting - should have turned back but carried on and 27th were up higher in very strong tent which was battered by strong winds. They managed to survive (cut hole in floor to get snow to melt) and descended terribly slowly via col, unrelated to reality (talked of going back up in 2 days) and extremely dehydrated - "extremely lucky men" to have survived. Peter and John very angry at their stupidity at not having turned back in 26th. Before seeing Kim and Michael depart from BC (Michael returned to BC later but did no more climbing), Peter and John went up to cwm 30th Sept and stayed there a week then down and up and down rest of time because saw no point: high winds, clouds and falling barometer showed useless, left cwm 30th Oct for last time. 

  Left BC 1 Nov while going through icefall huge area of it (10 acres) moved like waves; high crevasse opened up; by now no one keeping icefall open. Peter reached 24,500 ft (about 7500m) on Lhotse Face.


  Mullar - 8 Nov 87

  Peter and John spent much time in C2 and some to C3 on Europeans. Peter and John never seriously tried pillar because in bad weather and no oxggen can get into very bad condition.

  Decided finally to quit 30th from C2 (said on walkie-talkie). Must have reached BC safely since no report to the contrary from Sherpas with Snowbird team who stayed later.


  Schell - 19 Oct 87

  Peter in evening 13th down to BC after 8 days in C2. Planned to go up again via Lhotse Face, but waiting for wind change first; will wait for sometime.


  British women runner - 12 Oct 87

  British were at Everest BC night of 6/7 Oct. Peter and Muir left BC at 8:00-9:00 pm to go to C2, spend a day resting at C2 and then push for top if weather good. Not sure whether Mike went up with them or not, probably not.


  Logan - 9 Oct 87

  C3 26 Sept Pillar 24,800 ft by Kim and Mike. Had acclimatization on Lhotse Face.
  C4 26,500 ft on SE Ridge on 27th with C3's tent. Storm came 5:00 pm very fast. Wind unstable (wind took slab on Lhotse Shar). Stayed there that night and tent poles broke and wind and wind blown snow through fabric - start of frostbite.

  28th down to Col and to C2 biv rope Sherpas ahd fixed on 26th. No fixed rope on pillar, so descent has to be via Col. Others will stay 2 more weeks on mountain. Logan left BC 1 Oct.

  Mike Reinberger has slightly frostbitten fingers and will have serious frostbite if he returned to mountain as he is determined to do, preferably up Lhotse Face to Col. Peter and John well and going again to Pillar.


  Two New Zealanders and two Australians attempted without Sherpas or bottled oxygen to repeat the American autumn 1981 route up the South Pillar to the SE Ridge, but terrible winds, perhaps as strong as 200 mph, defeated them. Logan and Rheinberger had considerable difficulty on 26th Sept making camp C3 at 7560m because they were too close to the rock of the pillar, and they had a bad night that night when clouds built up and the winds began to blow. In Hillary's view the pair should have gone down from C3 but instead on 27th they moved on up to make camp C4 at 8080m, the team's highest point reached. Their strong tent was severely battered by the wind, and they had to cut a hole in its floor to obtain snow to melt to drink, but they managed to survive. "They were extremely lucky men!" to have done so, Hillary said, and on 28th Sept they descended the mountain via the South Col. They were frostbitten and seriously dehydrated, and their climb was over, but Hillary and Muir continued to hope for a break in the weather; it never came, and they finally abandoned hope on 30th Oct. As they descended the icefall for the last time on the 30th, a huge area of it moved like waves.


expid: EVER87306
peakid: EVER
year: 1987
route1: NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Doug Scott, Rick Allen
sponsor: Everest Autumn 1987 - NE Ridge, 'The Unclimbed Ridge'
countries: Austria, India, USA
approach: Zhangmu->Shegar
bcdate: 1987-09-04
smtdate: 1987-10-14
termdate: 1987-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to bad snow conditions, strong winds, death of cook, etc.
othersmts: 1 summiter on Langtang area peak
campsites: BC(04/09,5150m),ABC(09/09,6400m),C1(20/09,7090m),C2(08/10,7900m),xxx(14/10,8100m)
accidents: Cook killed by avalanche at BC
routememo:
  BC  at 5150m at 1994 site on Rongbuk Glacier
  ABC at East Rongbuk glacier (as high as yaks can go)
  C1  at top of site (at first tents, later cave)
  C2  on NE Ridge (cave)
  High point at NE Ridge.

  First climbed Naya Kanga (Ganjala Chuli) in Langtang to summit for acclimatization. Between 9th and 20th Sept fixed rope on rib and rest period. On climb on ridge had dump at base of first buttress at 7300m which was as high as several climbers (Sustad, Indian woman) got because literally cold feet. The big day was 12th Oct. 6 started out for summit push and Sustad, Allan, Scott, Allen, Kekus and Schauer on up ridge from ABC. [Sustand and Allan turned back first day.] Kekus and Schauer numb feet and fierce wind and turned back on 13th while Scott and Allen to C2. 14th both to 8100m (half way up 1st pinnacle) but very strong gusts of wind numbing them and both back to C2. 15th up to 8050m and again unabated wind so Scott quoted Williams on token heroics and down to ABC late at night. Rested and down to BC for brief period than hoped. 19th blizzard started. On 19th 2 Nepalis in a tent at a half-way point above BC; on the 19th a blizzard began, and it created 3 avalanches which swept a tent and Mangal Singh Tamang buried by it; body found on 21st and cremated at Rongbuk monastery on 23rd. Yaks couldn't get to ABC and trucks couldn't get to BC, so 4 members ported loads for 4 days from ABC to BC yaks. BC to road in beautifully clear and windless weather but Scott gone and Allen not interested in trying solo bid. Left BC 28th Oct and in Nepal 6th Nov - had taken 3 days to gt from BC to Shegar which normally takes one day.

  If winds had died on 14th Scott and Allen would have made it through the pinnacles - whether would have gone on to summit or down classical route, don't know.

  * 2 Nepalese above BC to ABC


  Schunk (American team) - 3 Nov 87

  Scott went to Lhasa twice,; Rick Allen, et al at Shegar 30 Oct; arrive KTM about 3 Nov. (Rick on 31st also to Lhasa) so perhaps not to KTM with others.

  Reached 50m below their own high point; did not get close to where Boardman and Tasker disappeared. Probably weather defeated them.

  (Schunk left mountain 28 Oct).


  Michael Scott - 15 Oct 87
  British on N Ridge

  Worried by 100 mph winds still continuing.

  Doug, Schauer, Rick Allen, Sandy Allan, Nick Kekus and Sustad left ABC 6400m 11 Oct; snow cave 7090m on 12th, 13th the pinnacles. 14th, 15th through pinnacles to top.

  Rick highest to 8000m snow cave just below pinnacles about 7?60m.

  Doug said happy to get through pinnacles and down N Col; very long to Everest top from top of pinnacles: 2-1/2 km and down N Col because of winds.

  Michael left BC 12th with his girl friend (Johanssen) due to bronchitis and dysentery.


expid: EVER87305
peakid: EVER
year: 1987
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Hanns Schell
sponsor: International Everest/Lhotse Expedition
countries: France, Italy, USA, W Germany
bcdate: 1987-08-26
smtdate: 1987-10-02
termdate: 1987-10-14
termnote: Abandoned at 8400m due to high winds
othersmts: Small rock peak, Lhotse (had permit, but not attempted) (LHOT-873-02)
campsites: BC(26/08,5350m),C1(07/09,6000m),C2(18/09,6400m),C3(19/09,7300m),C4(28/09,8000m),xxx(02/10,8400m)
accidents: None to 14th except Patschieder's shoulder injury
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col
  High point on SE Ridge.

  This expedition was a group of teams including American Snowbird expedition, 2-man USA expedition of Boyer and Rice, and several European climbers. European teams described below. See AAJ (1988) for descriptions of USA teams.

  Progress went well till 25th Sep; was sometimes snow but no wind. 26th Sep 10 members slept in C3 for summit bid either from C3 or C4. 27th Sep dowm because fierce wind. Patscheider and Schlicher up from C3 night of 1-2 Oct for summit bid and got only to 8400m on 2nd Oct because deep snow on one side of ridge and terrible wind on left side. Schlicher and Patscheider to C2 on foot and again to S Col on 10th Oct. On 16th they went to 8200m and again turned back by wind but Patscheider tried to ski down Lhotse Face from Col; skies merged into snow and he fell and dislocated shoulder. 

  8 members left BC 14th. Doctor leaving 15th and (not counting Snowbird climbers and Rice) left on mountain only French team of Muller, de La Ferriere and Lang. Winds began on Sep 26th and continued strong.


  Patscheider (via others) - 26 Aug 87

  No oxygen, no Sherpas to Everest top with him.

  Skis to South Col and if has luck with snow above Col will take skis to summit and down. First to Lhotse summit from face via Couloir then without return to BC picks up his skis left at Lhotse Face and to South Col where sleeps 1 night next day up Everest wtih skis on his back to ski down most of this distance too (if not all because of rock like Hillary Step).

  Ski from Everest top to Cwm in same day, maybe 3 hours including rest at Col and again on Lhotse West Face. Will have come down via east side of Geneva Spur (but pillar and Spur). Max 45-degree slope.

  Past ski descents: 55-60 degrees in Alps.
  "Not problem about skiing, very good skier; but problem may be no breath on summit and not enough power to go down with skis from summit.

  His skis 130 cm long, 7 cm wide (normal 180 cm for alpine skis in Europe). Shorter and lighter weight easier to carry, easier to swing; larger skis mean no control to slow and stop and go around rocks, etc. Hopes go only 20 km/hour. No practice skiing in Khumbu.

  55% chance he will be able to ski from Everest summit; if only 50-50, stupid to try, but 51-49 average not stupid. He is quiet and undramatic.


  European Everest after 14 Sept:
  Muller - 8 Nov 87

  13th Muller were in BC to ensure Schell didn't take all tents, etc away.
  Went to C2, Muller and some Americans, about 16 Oct and back to BC 18 or 19 Oct in fear of bad weather.

  Muller and party were first Europeans to reach C3 after bad weather but camp flat and ropes to and above C3 gone. Now always wind from north so decided to stop climb, Muller and Americans decided. Down to BC 28 Oct and left BC 30.

  No yaks could reach BC, only to Gorak Shep, because of deep snow.

  "It was the wind - we could reach summit at beginning of Oct but always windy windy."

  No oxygen taken or used by Mullers.
  No serious trauma amongst Europeans except Patscheider.
  No one attempted to reached to reach Lhotse summit.


expid: EVER87301
peakid: EVER
year: 1987
route1: W Ridge from N
nation: Japan
leaders: Takashi Kawakami
sponsor: Japan Everest Expedition 1987
approach: Half members via Lhasa->half via KTM
bcdate: 1987-07-30
smtdate: 1987-10-12
termdate: 1987-10-21
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to heavy snowfall, time running out
campsites:
  BC(20/07,5150m),ABC(06/08,5700m),C2(11/08,5900m),C3(10/09,6700m),C4(28/09,7000m),C5(01/10),C6(12/10,8100m),xxx(12/10,8100m)

routememo:
  BC at Rongbuk Glacier
  C2 east of Lho La slightly
  C3 slightly below shoulder
  C4 on West Shoulder/Ridge
  C5 on West Ridge
  C6 in small couloir: 1st couloir east of W Ridge
  High point at C6.

  Sherpas little more first making route for Japanese members who wever never before in Himalayas including climbing leader. All members from Japanese army and most in mid or late 20's. Some 55-65 years old (65 years old to C2). Unable to go above C4 because too much snow brought avalanching. Along ridge climbers started avalanching and couloir was avalanching funnel. Big snowstorm approaching 17th Oct and all called down to C2 or below. Never went back up from C2 again because all high camps crushed and of no use. Schedule called for return to Japan 10th Nov.


  Japanese Expedition to the Himalayas in 1987
  China, Qomolangma (Mt. Everest 8848m)

  The Defence Academy team led by Takashi Kawakami comprised 30 [29 without honorary leader Motoharu Arima] members, challenged this peak in autumn by the West Ridge via the Rongbuk Glacier. Their climbing leader, Masaoh Yokoyama (44), however, was killed on Sept 2 by an accident when he failed to jump over a stream running on the glacier between BC and C1 and bumped his head seriously against a stone. The team, in spite of this tragedy, continued their climbing, which was forced to abandon at the last third of Oct after they got to 8200m.


  Rick Allen - 7 Nov 87

  Japanese left BC just before Steve Van Meter; got to about 7500m on end of shoulder/start of ridge.

  Allen thought their Sherpas had left Tibet.


  Japanese Defense Academy

  Cleared all camps and all to ABC 27th Oct; should reach KTM (Sherpas at least) about 5-8 Nov.
  No more deaths.
  Reached 8200m on West Ridge about 15 Oct. How many now known: about 1 Japanese and 3 Sherpas.


  Jack Turner - 1 Oct 87

  Lots of snow and wind 25,000 ft at shoulder.

  Japanese established C4 at top of buttress to West Ridge. Hhad lost C3 in avalanche (was 1500 ft below shoulder at 15 Sept). 12-14 men shuttling to C4 and not badly affected by wind.
  Total 42 Japanese and Sherpas.
  Japanese climbing leader died while alone crossing East Rangbuk Glacier.


  Japanese Expedition

  29 Japanese
  18 Sherpas
  West Ridge route

  Climbing leader died when he fell into East Rongbuk River the day after he killed a sheep despite ban on killing animals in area.

  Lots of fixed rope, oxygen; other members mostly young men.

accidents:
  Deputy leader hurt knee; 1 Japanese and 2 Sherpas ill and went home; climbing leader drowned between BC and C1


expid: EVER87307
peakid: EVER
year: 1987
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Peter Athans, Karen Fellerhoff
sponsor: Snowbird Everest Expedition
bcdate: 1987-09-06
smtdate: 1987-10-09
termdate: 1987-11-01
termnote: Abandoned at 8075m due to wind and early storm's destruction
campsites: BC(06/09,5350m),C1(14/09,6050m),C2(21/09,6550m),C3(28/09,7070m),C4(08/10,8000m),xxx(09/10,8075m)
accidents: 1 Gurung only serious illness (he returned to expedition later)
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC at bottom of Icefall
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face (slightly lower than Austrians)
  C4 at Col
  High point at slope above Col.

  Didn't occupy C3 until summit teams ready to move up; otherwise used for dump or acclimatizating. Col camp first slept in 8th Oct by Noble and Whittaker but had equipment there quite a while. 

  1st summit bid had been by them, Rhoads and Athans who got to C3 on 28th. 

  Noble and Whittaker started for top from C4 [9 Oct], turned back at 8075m because of winds. 

  Col reached several times afterwards but no wind improvement and then blizzard of 19th "flattened everything" with wind, avalanching on Lhotse Face and snow, predominantly wind. 

  Most of team left after storm subsided; 4 left but 3 got stomach trouble while Athans tried to go up with Sherpas but now winds from north showed winter looming. Athans finally left BC 1st Nov.

  * 10 Nepalese above BC.


expid: EVER87402
peakid: EVER
year: 1987
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Hahm Tak-Young
sponsor: Korean Winter Everest Expedition
ascent1: 75th
bcdate: 1987-11-30
smtdate: 1987-12-22
smttime: 1420
termdate: 1987-12-23
accidents: 2 Sherpas ill (one after 4-5 days at BC) and stopped climbing; Son altitude sickness
agency: Adventure Nepal
campsites:
  BC(30/11,5350m),C1(04/12,6100m),C2(07/12,6600m),C3(11/12,7300m),C4(19/12,7986m),Smt(22/12),Biv(22/12,8600m)

routememo:
  C4 at South Col.

  2nd summit attack team called back by leader because "lack of willingness" of Sherpas and to same extent other members on 23 Dec after 22nd success. C3 had strong snowstorm on 13th Dec and Heo, Ang Rita and 3 Sherpas had to descend in winds, called for rescue team to help them but no one hurt. In descent to S Summit, Heo on corniced ridge lost his footing and fell 15m on Tibet side. Ang Rita on rope arrested the fall and took 1/2 hr to return to route which heavily crevassed. On 22nd left C4, on top 14:20 and biv on 22nd at 22:00 hrs at 8600m without bivouac gear (had to craddle "each other" to stay awake). Only slight frostbite in only gentle wind. Heo used oxygen in C4 sleeping (2 ltr/min) and climbing above C4 and at biv (picked up discarded bottles). Ang Rita used none at all (Heo kept both sleeping masks and says Ang Rita did not use).

  6 Jan 1988 - Heo confirms most above summit details - biv; fell 10m at cornice bottom of all gear steps. Ang Rita used no oxygen to his knowledge though could have while Heo slept. Heo's oxygen ran out when came back down to S Summit so none during biv. He has slight frostbite of both heels. 

  Leader: sent no more to try summit as safety precaution - summit reached and that enough.


  Pheriche Doctor - 17 Dec 1987

  S Korean Everest case of altitude illness. Ascended ex-Lukla much too rapidly and severe cerebral edema. Cared for at Pheriche and descended to Pangboche. When he got better he went back up to BC.


expid: EVER88104
peakid: EVER
year: 1988
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Austin Brookes
sponsor: Australian Bicentennial Everest - Spring 1988
ascent1: 80th,81th
countries: New Zealand
bcdate: 1988-03-12
smtdate: 1988-05-25
smttime: 1230
campsites: BC(12/03,5400m),C1(26/03,5900m),C2(04/04,6500m),C3(14/04,7300m),C4(14/05,7900m),Smt(25,28/05)
accidents: Nothing serious
achievment: 1st successful south side expedition without climbing Sherpas
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       BC at normal site
  C1 at not quite top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 just below Col but normal site.

  Used 3-nation team's fixed ropes above C3 to S Col. Australians did some but not all Icefall maintenance after having put in entire route through Icefall; were ahead of 3-nation's team to C3, then deliberately waited for others to put up C4 thus putting in rope to that point; asked to wait by 3-nation team who now had great load carrying capacity and moving faster to meet their May 5th summit date. 

  1st Aussie summit team [Rheinberger, Muir, Strohfeldt, Smith, Curry and Truscott] did not get higher than C3; turned back by wind on 12 May. 

  2nd summit team [Farmer, Lambert, Van Gelder, Zaharias] got to S Col 14th May and to 8500m 16th; deep snow (knee-deep) took 11 hrs to reach this point and going too slowly and returned to C4 on 16th. 

  3rd summit team [Boyne, Cullinan] slowed by deep snow in icefall (left BC 16th, to C2 17th, arrived C3 18th, C4 19th) and spent next 6 nights at C4 and set out for top. Bayne on top 12:30 pm (afternoon) 25th and Cullinan 14:30 pm 25th; Cullinan back at C4 at 11 pm, Bayne couple of hours earlier. Spent all 26th exhausted in C4. Arrived C2 evening 27th and BC 28th having used at least 5 oxygen bottles each from C3 to top and at C4. 

  4th summit team were Rheinberger, Curry, Strohfeldt, Muir, Truscott and McCullagh. 19th Truscott turned back from C2 exhausted while others to C3; Muir stayed at C3 sick. On 20th other 4 to Col and spent nights of 20th and 21st, MuCullagh down on 22nd, Curry and Strohfeldt down on 23rd and Rheinberger to C2 on 24th till 30th. 

  Curry and Muir were 5th team: left BC 26th and arrive C2 same day, C2 to C4 27th, left C4 12:15 am (midnight) 28th; Curry's Japanese oxygen system malfunctioned (Australians own oxygen supply exhausted and only Muir had any by now) and he turned back at 8500m while Muir went on to summit, arrived there at 11:15 am 28th, returned to C4 at 4:30 pm 28th; both down to C2 on 29th (arrived at 4:30 pm) and BC 30th (midday).

  Only accident: Pitham fell 500 ft on Lhotse Face into crevasse - merely bruised.

   3 members in BC only: Allen, Delaney, Trenam
   3 members to C2 only
   4 members to C3 only
   6 members to C4 only
   6 members reached 8500m only
   3 members reached summit
  ---
  25  


  Brooks & Rheinberger - 5 June 1988

  No attempt made to climb West Ridge, for which had permission. Rheinberger: "we kept it as an option till we saw how much 3-nation expedition would tolerate us."

  Towards end of climbing period when 3-nation team was with leaving from Everest, several Australian members urged them to take on some Sherpas to send up load-carrying and save members strength - matter was debated and decision went against the idea.


  18 May 1988

  Australians 2-3 May reached Col - after that leader and some members went at Lobuche 26-27 and others 2-3 May.
  Left BC 13th May. 
  Brookes said they attempt would summit 13-14 May.
  No one had occupied Australians Col camp, as far as Isono knows, before he left BC.


  1 June 1988

  John Muir on 28 May to summit.

  Chris Curry and Muir left C4 (at midnight) 12 pm but Curry had to turn back because problem of oxygen bottle not functioning well. Muir on top 11:16 hours on 28 May - saw Japanese flag.

  Oxygen cyclinder and prayer flags of 3-nation expedition; he was extremely happy.

  Muir and Curry reached C4 15 hours same day.


expid: EVER88102
peakid: EVER
year: 1988
route1: W Ridge from N
nation: UK
leaders: Douglas Keelan
sponsor: British Services Everest Expedition 1988
bcdate: 1988-03-08
smtdate: 1988-05-18
termdate: 1988-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 8550m due to bad weather, lack of oxygen, strong manpower
campsites:
  BC(08/03,5240m),C1(12/03,5560m),ABC(16/03,5975m),C3(31/03,6550m),C4(05/04,7255m),C5(14/04,7255m),C6(17/05,8150m),xxx(18/05,8550m)

routememo:
  BC at road
  C1 at Tilman's camp
  C2 (ABC) on glacier at foot of steep climb start
  C3 halfway up French spur
  C4 just below top of shoulder
  C5 at 1.5m east of C4
  C6 at bottom of yellow band, halfway up Hornbein Couloir.

  Climb to C3 quite technical on 60 degrees steep ice. C6 problem to establish and made lower than planned because of oxygen problems; actually properly established only on 8th May. 

  Summit group of 4 [Nicholls, Maxwell, Moore, McLeod] left C5 on 28th April and got only to 8100m. Next day 4 got only to 8300m because oxygen problems and camp not high enough, but weather good. They withdrew from mountain and 2nd bid mounted for 8 May with 2 summiters [Bell, Middleton] on 9th and 4 [Williams, Garratt, L. Hughes, Pelly] on 10th, but big snowfield 600m wide made getting into Hornbein dangerous and they withdrew at 8000m on 8th.

  3rd bid for 18th May with 4 summiters [Nicholls, McLeod, Day, L. Hughes] and support party [Middleton, Moore]. C6 now placed at 8150m. Day withdrew because not well. Night of 17 May weather changed completely, spindrift and snow kept thundering down Hornbein and tent kept being squashed. Nicholls and McLeod set out at 8:30 am from C4 and kept on to 14:30 to top of Hornbein Couloir, but ferocious wind in storm to top of yellow band where summit snowfield began. Storm not abating and snow conditions getting worse and worse, making withdrawal increasingly dangerous. In withdrawal Middleton descending from C5 caught by slab avalanche and had leg injury (but not broken) so had to be carried down.

accidents:
  Middleton's injured leg (while descending from C5 caught by slab avalanche) but not broken; 4 cases of frostbite which will heal


expid: EVER88103
peakid: EVER
year: 1988
route1: Eastern most buttress of E Face
nation: USA
leaders: Robert Anderson
sponsor: US, UK and Canada Everest Spring 1988
ascent1: 79th
countries: Canada, UK
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 1988-03-10
smtdate: 1988-05-12
smttime: 1540
accidents: 3 members frostbite; Teare developed altitude sickness
campsites:
  LowBC(10/03,4875m),BC(29/03,5000m),ABC(31/03,5450m),C1(14/04,6350m),C209/05,7400m),C3(10/05,7700m),Smt(12/05)

routememo:
  Previous BC just below Langmo La - from there mtn, Karma Valley
  Main BC at Kangshung Glacier moraine
  ABC at middle of Kangshung Glacier, due east of US 1983 BC
  C1  on southern-most buttress of E Face
  C2  below huge bergschrund on buttress
  C3  at S Col (really just below it).

  Upper slopes of "Neverest Buttress" actually quite safe but lower part close to avalanche danger. Other part of face huge serac bands that fell off and powder snow avalanches. Took 21 days to get to BC with snow too deep for yaks and daily heavy snowfall. Had to get porters to get transport loads. They went to ABC, climbed buttress to 40 ft wide and 100 ft deep glacier which took difficult technical climbing to overcome. Fixed 4000 ft of rope from bottom of buttress to where it eases off at about 22,000 ft or so. Again weather turned bad. Made one carry of loads to 24,500 ft on 1 May and then to ABC while snowed. 

  Arrived for summit bid 5th May but weather of 2-3 May snow brought big avalanches; so summit push by all 4 members on 8th May from ABC. 9th knee-deep snow from C1 to C2 took 14 hrs. 10th May 11-hour haul from C2, which they picked up and carried to South Col, where pitched tent (did not see Japanese-Chinese-Nepal tents in their hurry to pitch it and get out of wind). 11th 3 stayed at Col because of wind while Teare developing altitude sickness so down to ABC (in 7 hours). Eve of 11th winds abated so 3 set out from Col at 11:00 pm. Venables to top 3:40 pm 12th; other 2 were behind him and turned back at or very near S Summit in deteriorating weather. Webster and Anderson slept that night in Japanese tent at C5 of Japan-China-Nepal expedition while Venables spent night at 8500m on slope below S Summit because couldn't find way down in misty weather. Venables caught up with others at Japanese tent and all there to S Col together where stayed remainder of 13th resting and slept there that night, which shouldn't have done because of altitude. Very slow descent. 14th to C1 in afternoon. 15th tried to go down in afternoon but snowed and had to return to C2. 16th managed to get started at 11:00 am and to ABC at 4:00 pm (Webster and Venables) while Anderson couldn't find route and spent night out at 22,500 ft and down to ABC about 8:00 pm on 18th with the help from bottom of buttress by photographer.

  Accidents and Injuries:
    Anderson's frostbite one big toe and same fingers which probably will heal.
    Venables 5 toes which could lose tips of (nose frostbitten but is healing).
    Webster's 5 toes and 5 fingers; will probably loose 1st digits of fingers.

  When Venables set off from South Col, he knew toes were getting numb and took conscious decision to go on up anyway.

  Support team:
    Mimi Zieman, medical student from NY, 25 years old
    Joe Blackburn, photographer, 42 from New Canaan, Conn
  Came as high as ABC

  Buttress starts at about 18,000 ft and merges into face at about 24,500 ft.


  Ang Kami - 23 May 

  12 May some 4-5 people coming down from S Summit at 6:00-7:00 am towards S Col. Did not meet them (he had been at Col for 3 days and wanted to go down) but is sure they went to Col. Had expected them to descend normal route but they did not.


  Isono 1-8 May

  10 May Nepalese met Americans on SE Ridge below S Summit. Americans very tired, but oxygen regulators to them, and Americans opportunity down from South Summit and slept at S Col - Ang Karma reported this.


  Webster - 25 Feb 88

  Norbu Tenzing Norgay, son of Tenzing Norgay Sherpa, visited BC area about 12-20 May as member of trekking group of half dozen people; is not a technical climber and will do no climbing, go no higher than ABC. Indian, aged 24, single member of Lindblad Travel staff on promotional side lives in Westport, Conn.

  * 1 Nepali and 1 Sherpa above BC


expid: EVER88201
peakid: EVER
year: 1988
route1: NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Brummie Strokes
sponsor: Brummie Stokes Everest Expedition 1988
countries: New Zealand, USA
approach: Lhasa->Rongbuk Glacier
bcdate: 1988-06-20
smtdate: 1988-08-06
termnote: Abandoned at 8400m due to heavy snowfall
accidents: Stokes mild stroke from cerebral edema
campsites:
  BC(20/06,5200m),ABC(6492m),C1(01/07,7090m),C2(15/07,7376m),C3(03/08,8000m),Biv(05/08,8380m),xxx(06/08,8400m)

routememo:
  BC at road head
  High point at junctions of NE & North Ridge.

  Two members, Briton Henry Taylor and New Zealander Russell Brice, made the first successful climb past the pinnacles of the NE Ridge, first attempted by Bonington's 1982 team, but because of heavy snowfall & temporary white-out conditions were unable to go higher than the junction of this ridge with the classical route's north ridge at 8400m. The NE Ridge was extremely narrow, very dangerous, very exposed. Technically not Brice's hardest but the high altitude made it hard work. Team fixed rope from the start of the buttress at 6490m all the way up the buttress & then up the NE Ridge to 8230m at the first pinnacle.

  Saw no signs of Boardman and Tasker, but much snow and could have walked over them. Slept on oxygen nights of 3rd and 4th Aug and at biv shared some briefly night of 5th. When got to bivvy one regulator not working so had to share (used "to keep our toes warm"). Bivvy 200-300m short of finishing all pinnacles which finished on 6th in white-out and 18" new snow which made for avalanche danger and therefore did not carry on to top. Spent 2 hours brewing up at top of ridge. By time weather finally cleared, too late to go for top and down to N Col and on to ABC on 6th. 3-1/2 hours finishing pinnacles, 2 hours rest and 6 hours descent to ABC. Alpine grade 3-4 in difficulty: certainly dangerous very narrow ridge, very exposed. Were on snow entire way (only 1 rock piton entire trip). Technically not Brice's hardest climb but the altitude made it hard. Moores and Barker slept on oxygen one night in C3 on their way up. Waited in C3 on 6th in case Brice and Taylor came down to C3. As soon as knew B and T down North Ridge/Col. After this a week of constant heavy snow and no further upward climbing after 5-6 Aug.

  Long and Kellas, Moores and Barker would have made another bid for top. Fixed rope from bottom of buttress to 27,000 ft at First Pinnacle.


expid: EVER88312
peakid: EVER
year: 1988
route1: E Face
nation: USA
leaders: Joe Dinnen
sponsor: American Everest E Face - Autumn 1988
termnote: Abandoned at 5940m due to danger from falling ice, etc.
campsites: BC,C1(5940m),xxx(lateSep,5940m)
routememo:
  ABC at moraine of Kangshung Glacier
  C1  at foot of Kangshung Face (East Face)
  High point at 5940m left of buttress of East Face.

  Chose a line up the left side of the buttress directly below the South Col because the right side, done brillantly a few months before by Ed Webster and his team, was no longer a option due to daily and sometimes twice daily avalanches. The route on the left offered an only slightly more protected line up a gully, with a traverse out on to the face itself. The climbing was steep but quite straightforward. Lying at the junction of Everest and Lhotse, one was in the path of whenever either mountain avalanched. After fixing ropes, experienced a large avalanche, which carried away much of the equipment and food. Fortunately no one was hurt. Too late to try another route; time and supplies were running out.

  We decided reluctantly to turn back. A word to save others some of the headaches we encountered. The Chinese Mountaineering Association liaison officer spoke only Chinese. Our interpreter spoke Chinese and English and so it was not possible to speak with the Tibetans. Neither man actually went farther than the roadhead at Kharta. Also take precautions that nothing is stolen. The yak drivers seem to have developed a help-yourself attitude toward gear, clothing, food and fuel.


expid: EVER88305
peakid: EVER
year: 1988
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Courtney Skinner
sponsor: Courtney Skinner Autumn Everest 1988 'Cowboys on Everest'
approach: From Lhasa
bcdate: 1988-08-17
smtdate: 1988-10-01
termdate: 1988-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7770m due to strong winds and climber's inexperience
campsites:
  BC(25/08,5180m),C1(02/09),C2(09/09,6065m),C3.ABC(10/09,6500m),C4(21/09,7100m),C5(01/10,77770m),xxx(01/10,7770m)

routememo:
  High point at C5 site.

  Everest attempt. Climbing the historic route which claimed the lives of Mallory and Irvine in 1924, the Wyoming Centennial Everest Expedition, commonly called "Cowboys on Everest." Led by Courtney Skinner, team fought against weather conditions resulting from the heaviest monsoon in years according to Tibetan locals. On the approach rains caused landslides, vanished roads and washed-out bridges and delayed the arrival at Base Camp until August 25 after nearly 25 days of travel and waiting. From Base Camp at 17,000 ft, we set up three camps to Advance Base at 21,325 ft at the foot of the North Col. It took twelve days to fix the route up the col. A safe line was used up the center of the serac field. C4 was set up on the col on Sept 21 and a few days later a group reached C5 at 25,000 ft. Winds destroyed tents at C4 and C5 and, after several more tries, the expedition was called off on Oct 14. The team returned to Base Camp after 57 days on the mountain. The members were leader Courtney Skinner's brother Orion and his father Bob Skinner. Quint Barney, Bob Bohus, Peter Breslow, Doug Burbank, Jim Burnett, Julie Cheney, Sue Cobb, Carl Coy, Rick Dare, Matt Ellenthal, Mack Ellerby, Dave Frawley, Ethan Goldings.

  Wyoming Centennial Everest Expedition - Aut 1988


  Information from other sources:

  Jim Frush, leader of a US team (on the south side) - 30 July 88 

  Leader is Courney Skinner from Pinedale, Wyoming. Has 33 members, most of them with no Himalayan experience. Route is standard North Col-North Ridge.


  Sonam Gyalpo of Mountain Travel - 11 Aug 88 

  Mountain Travel has received telex from China International Travel Service cancelling some MT trips into Tibet because of swollen rivers, and one telex from Lhasa Hotel saying Wyoming Everest expedition has been held up in Lhasa now for two weeks because Chengdu-Lhasa flights have been cancelled and all the team's baggage (2.5 tons) coming by road from Beijing all the way.


  Daniel Noble, USA member of a team on north side during summer - 14 Aug 88

  Noble talked with Skinner in Colorado and was told Skinner's group was using oxygen, buying some from a British team.


  Steve Boyer, member of French team on north side in autumn - 20 Sept 88 

  Leader of Wyoming Centenial team and its base camp manager arrived at base camp the day after the French had gotten there, which was on 16 August. Americans made four camps on the way to the Col. They had little Himalayan experience and were going slowly. They had a lot of oxygen, no Sherpas. There were about 35 Americans including geologists, etc. U.S. Air Force C-120 cargo planes flew their equipment to Beijing.


  Marc Twight, member of US-Canadian pair on north side in autumn - 3 Nov 88

  Wyoming Centennial team were on North Col-North Ridge route. Their high point was site of Camp 5 at 25,200 ft at the end of September, but they never occupied this camp. They were 35 people, some of whom had never climbed before; "a grass roots effort," Skinner said. Bob Skinner, 59 years old, and Courtney Skinner, 52, run hunting and youth camps; Courtney got to North Col using bottled oxygen at flow of 7 liters/minute. Only member with Himalayan experience was 43 years old Dave Frawley, who trekked to Gokyo and had had first climbing lesson only year ago. Mack Ellerby had lot of climbing experience elsewhere (McKinley) and did the best high climbing of this group. Their summit team was put together in the US: Julie Cheney, to be the first US woman atop Everest; first father and son pair, Bob (the father) and Orion Skinner, youngest man, Jim Burnett and oldest man, Bob Skinner, 59. Member Sue Cobb was the wife of an aide of US vice president George Bush; team flown to China in a US Air force plane. The team arrived at base camp as the summer British-US-NZ team left to go home, and left base camp on 20 Oct.


  Sonam, Ministry of Tourism - 11 Aug 88

  MT has CITJ telex cancelling some MT trips in Tibet because of swollen rivers and one from Lhasa Hotel saying Wyoming Everest expedition held up in Lhasa now for 2 weeks because Chengdu-Lhasa flights cancelled and the teams's baggage (2 1/2 tons) coming instead by road from Peking all the way.


  Daniel Noble, (Everest NE Ridge team) - 14 Aug 88

  Courtney Skinner = leader 
  Julie Cheney + 5 other women
  20-25 members
  Using oxygen - buying some from British NE Ridge expedition.
  N Col classical route.


  Letter from H. Adams Carter, editor of AAJ

  The Wyoming Centennial Everest Expedition is led by Courtney Skinner, as AAC members at least are with them. Gary Neptune is from Boulder and a good, experienced climber. Also a member is David Padwa, who does not have a very distinguished record, mostly in the Alps and in the United States. I know they have some women along, though I am not sure of who they are. I think, but I am not sure, that Susan Havens is one. If so, she is AAC. They apparently have sold theirs to the television cameras. We keep hearing terribly insignificant driblets on the radio about them.


expid: EVER87401
peakid: EVER
year: 1987
route1: NE Ridge-N Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Tsuneo Hasegawa
sponsor: U-TAN Club Winter Everest 1987
approach: From Lhasa
bcdate: 1987-10-16
smtdate: 1988-02-09
termdate: 1988-02-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7650m due to danger of falling stones and bad weather
campsites: BC(16/10),C1,ABC(24/11,6450m),C3(20/01,7350m),xxx(09/02,7650m)
routememo:
  Atushi Iharra - 11 March 1988 

  4 members, but wife BC only - reached 7700m.
  New route avoiding N Col's strong wind via a couloir to NE Ridge; his highest point was where couloir reached ridge. Climb start of Nov through Feb 28.


  Isono, Japanese, etc. - 27 Feb 1988

  Hasegawa tried and still attempting till end Feb to solo N Face. Went to mountain last Nov. Route probably Japanese-Hornbein Couloirs to get protection from winter wind.


  Mrs. Okawara - 21 Feb 1988

  Mrs. Okawara has heard that her friend Mr. Hasegawa has been leading a small expedition to N Side of Everest this winter and is still there, but she has no details. She believes some Sherpas are with the Japanese but doesn't know where. She does not expect members to come to KTM.


  US Everest North, Jamieson/Matoos - 19 Oct 1987

  Japanese to unclimbed N Ridge arrived BC 16th Oct and started climb 1 Nov.
  20 Japanese plus 15-18 Sherpas.

  See AAJ 1989 account.

  Hashegawa tries again Autumn 1989.

  US Everest North, Winter 1987

  Japanese unclimbed North Ridge arrived BC 16 Oct and start climb 1 Nov
  20 Japanese and 15-16 Sherpas.

  (From The American Alpine Journal 1989, pg 271, by Tsuneo Hasegawa)

  Our expedition consisted of :
  1. Masayoshi Utsumi
  2. Kiyotaka Hoshino
  3. Mrs. Masami Hasegawa (leader's wife)
  4. Tsuneo Hasegawa, leader

  As reported in AAJ 1988 on 273, we were prevented from getting to the mountain earlier by the big snowstorm in Oct. We were given permission to continue during the winter.

  The route we attempted was a new one, which began east of the North Col. We climbed the northeast shoulder at about 7800m.

  We established ABC-C2 at 6450m on Nov 24, 1987. From there we climbed to 7000, 7200, 7450m and 7500m on Dec 11, 19, 24 and 27, respectively. We established C3 at 7350m on Jan 20 and occupied in on Feb 7. On Feb 9, we climbed to 7700m.

  We removed ABC on Feb 23 and BC on the 26th. During the mountaineering activity, the wind blew steadily from 150 to 200 kph. The tent at C3 was damaged by the falling rock and ice many times, since there was no safe tent site in the couloir.


expid: EVER88403
peakid: EVER
year: 1988
route1: Face between N and NE Ridges
nation: Japan
leaders: Tsuneo Hasegawa
sponsor: Tsuneo Hasegawa Winter Everest 1988
bcdate: 1988-09-15
smtdate: 1988-12-11
termdate: 1988-12-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to strong winds
campsites: BC(15/09),ABC(10/10,6500m),C3(06/11,7350m),xxx(11/12,7800m)
routememo:
  Yuasa - 23 Jan 89

  Hasegawa's Everest bid ended on 26 Dec 1988 at 8000m. Strong winds defeated them. They were 3 Japanese climbers and 1 manager, no Sherpas, no oxygen.

  Route was new one to left of Great Couloir and right of N Ridge.

  24 Jan - Hasegawa actually tried 2 routes onto North Face at its eastern end.


  Marc Twight - 3 Nov 88

  Hasegawa and 2 other climbers still on couloir between NE and N Ridges
  BC end Sept.
  ABC very early Oct. Hasegawa arrived ABC 14 Oct.
  Started walking on route 25 Oct and were fixing route. 
  Expected be on top about 25 Dec.
  Had oxygen but no Sherpas.


  From Iwa-to-Yuki

  Another Japanese team led by Tsuneo Hasegawa (40) comprised 5 members approached Qomolangma in Oct-Dec from northeast side. They this time taking the same route attempted the face between the NE Ridge and the North Col, which they failed in 87/88. They placed C3 (7350m). On Nov 24, while Hasegawa and other 2 members were staying at C3, which was [were] attacked by a block avalanche. They narrowly escaped and by 20 or more pitches of rapelling descended back to their BC. After this, cold weather got bitter and bitter, by which the team was forced to abandon the activities at the point of 7800m - only 150 meters higher than previous year.


expid: EVER83102
peakid: EVER
year: 1983
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Gerhard Lenser
sponsor: German-American Sagarmatha Everest 1983
ascent1: 52nd,53rd
countries: Nepal, W Germany
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1983-04-01
smtdate: 1983-05-07
smttime: 1600
termdate: 1983-05-26
campsites:
  BC(01/04,5395m),C1(17/04,5900m),C2(21/04,6490m),C3(29/04,7315m),C4(06/05,7995m),C5(8380m),Smt(07,14/05)

routememo:
  17th May attempted by Bass, Hixson, Thapa, Nuru Zanbu, Lhakpa Tshering and Ang Dale reached 26,000 ft to 28,200 ft, turned back because of deep snow (which not deeper than on 14th).

  21 May - Bass, Thapa and Ershler to C3; Wells, Ang Rita and Phortse Gyalgen to C4.
  23 May - Ershler descended. 
  24 May - Wells and Sherpas descended; Bass, Thapa and 2 Sherpas to C4.

  Mrs. Schmatz [body] seen by Bass and Hixson. Kato and Kabayashi [bodies] not seen but Sherpas found Kato helmet; Kobayoshi diary tripod not seen.

  Started into icefall 5th April but very hard ice took long time to make way through it.

  Larry Neilson, Gerry Roach, Peter Jamieson, Dave Breashears and Sherpa reached the summit on May 7. Nielson and Ang Rita climbed without supplemental oxygen, Nielson being the first American to accomplish such feat.

  On May 14th the team of Gary Neptune, Jim States and Sherpa Lhakpa Dorje reached the summit. Climbing leader Phil Ershler and Ang Phurba Sherpa attempted summit climb on the same day without oxygen but were forced to turn back due to imminent risk of frostbite.

  On May 17, the team of Dick Bass, Ed Hixson, Yogendra Thapa and Sherpas Norbu Jangbu, Lhakpa Tshering and Ang Dale set out from the South Col but were forced to turn around late in the morning at 28,000 ft level owing to deep soft snows which prevented further progress at that altitude.

  On May 21 the fourth team of Frank Wells and Sherpas Ang Rita and Phortse Gyalzen reached the South Col at 26,200 ft. Two hours after reaching the col a severe wind storm started with winds placed at 50 mph gusting up to [?] mph. The three attempted to wait out the storm for 3 nights and the storm for 3 nights and 4 days at the col but with no sign of [relief and] food supplies running low the three were forced back to C2 on fourth day.

  Bass, Thapa and two Sherpas launched their second attempt on May 24. They fought through the continuing windstorm and reached C4 at the South Col late on 24th only to be pinned down in their tents for two further days before finally being forced to retreat.

  Wells then attempted to organize a further assault only to find there was insufficient oxygen left for any further.

  Climbing activities on the mountain were then officially terminated by climbing leader Ershler with all climbers and Sherpas returning safely through the rapidly deteriorating icefall to base camp.

  Bass and Wells, the organizers of the seven summits Everest expedition, commented upon their return to base Camp:

  "We are both personnaly disappointed that we did not reach the summit - particularly when each of us feels somewhat to our own surprise - given the way we reacted to high altitude. We could have reached the summit had the weather and deep snows not prevented us from going further. At the same time we are deeply [gratified] that everyone has returned safely that the expedition placed and 8 climbers on top including the first American without oxygen (covered in an amazing technological achievement by microwave transmission) and frankly that we each reached the legendary 8000m level or higher there only 14 mountains in the world which reach 8000 meters.

  After trying Everest from Tibet last year and Nepal this year, will they try again? Bass suggestive. 


  Roach and Jamieson:

  Expedition over, ended today all coming down or one down
  Bass, Thapa 2nd attempt for summit on Wed; reached 28,000 ft and turned back because bad weather. 
  Wells at BC 17,700 ft. 
  Bass and Thapa C2 to BC today probably with Neptune and Marts.
  Doubt Wells got above C4. Expedition probably leaving BC tomorrow. 

  No indication anyone not used too bad. Dick is fundamentally strong enough to climb Everest in right situation, but that situation did not present itself, i.e., good weather, good oxygen, good logistics.

  Jamieson: "I'm sorry they didn't make it cause they spent great deal of time and effort and many in hopes of reaching summit, which was a goal that was very important to them and their seven summits endeavour. However their failure to reach the summit by no means detracts from the success of their Everest expedition."

  Total expedition extremely successful says Jamieson.


  Nielson - 24 May 83

  Bass going to C4 from C3. Wells down to C3 from C4. "I would suspect it means that Frank's giving up." Don't know who's with Bass and Wells. Ershler is in BC. They spent 3 days in C3 and he's not using oxygen and were wearing out.

  Hixson yesterday much improved. 


  ABC/HEV - 23 May 83

  Wells and Bass still in C4 and C3 respectively because too much snow from yesterday; today fine. Hixson in hospital. Don't know what went wrong; extreme altitude sickness; came from BC yesterday by helicopter.

  Ershler down to C2 today; "looks like he's calling it quits."


  Nielson - 14 May 83

  Phil has excellent judgement, so if he turned around there was a good reason. I personally hope that if he turned around I'd like to see him go again and maybe use oxygen there next time. I know he is dedicated to not using oxygen but hope he'll use it if necessary. He went to 26,000 ft on Everest North Face last without oxygen.

  "The more people we get to the top the stronger is our expedition. We don't have people with big names on our expedition [experience], but we have a lot strong people."

  Lenser not planning summit bid; staying in BC.

  Icefall glacier surging and moving now and breaking up since a week ago. Top part fallen in thrice. "Longer you stay high, the more your body will deteriorate." Ershler likely to have come down to C2.

  "He's respected enough by the expedition that I'm sure they will want him in the 3rd or 4th group.

  3rd attempt Monday or Tuesday. Leave enough time for 2nd party to return to C2 this clears C3 and C4. A C5 likely to be only a tent and oxygen for use on descent plus perhaps extra Sherpas carrying oxygen.

  3 am would be dark but 4 am light enough not to need flashlights.


  Ang Rita's use of oxygen - Spring 83:

  Ang Rita actually did use bottled oxygen, according to American climber David Breashears, who went to the summit of Everest on the same day as Ang Rita, the 7th of May, on the American expedition led by Phil Ershler and Gerhard Lenser.

  Breashears said in a letter to me dated 2 July, 1987, "during my ascent of Everest in May of 1983, I shared a tent on the South Col which was our high camp with Ang Rita. At that time, he used oxygen for sleeping before and after our summit ascent. On the summit day, he was carrying a bottle of oxygen and a regulator, but deposited this in the snow several hundred feet above the Col. The entire summit day was spent by him without the use of supplemental oxygen."
      
  "Please keep in mind that I present these facts to you for the purpose of keeping the record straight. I don't believe that Ang Rita would deny the above (which he has done several times since 1987), or that it matters to him. I can't think of a stronger climbing companion or a Sherpa for whom I have more respect than Ang Rita, and he did climb Everest in 1984 with the Czech expedition without any use of oxygen whatsoever."

  On 17th October 1988, Breashears told me that Ang Rita definitely slept on oxygen at the South Col in 1983. They shared a Y-connection from the same bottle in the same tent.

accidents:
  Hixson apparently had stroke leaving S Col in descent and seriously affected; Nielson and Jamieson frostbite


expid: EVER89401
peakid: EVER
year: 1989
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Ha-Kyung
sponsor: Lee Chung-Ok S Korean Everest Winter 1989/90
bcdate: 1989-11-19
smtdate: 1989-12-29
termdate: 1990-01-05
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to wind, cold, exhaustion, food depleted
campsites: BC(19/11,5400m),C1(30/11,6050m),C2(02/12,6400m),C3(07/12,7400m),xxx(29/12,7900m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall (slept in 1 Dec)
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face (slept in 9 Dec)
  High point at South Col.

  Ang Phinjo Sherpa (Khumjung, 42 yrs) died near C1 (at 6500m); stayed at C2 after 9th Dec when had carried gear for C3 to 7400m and then down to C2; 12th sirdar reported Ang Pinjo not well and leader said to send him down; he descended alone, confused, lost then found in confused condition, carried down; died 10 mins above C1 suddenly at 3:05 pm; artificial respiration tried at Dhugla. 

  Koreans waited at C2 more than 10 days, strong winds blew away kitchen tent. 27th Dec wind suddenly stopped so up to C3; reestablished tents at C3 on 28th. 29th tried to reach S Col and reached Col but unable to pitch tent because late (5 pm) and alone, so down to C3 in dark and arrived C3 (6:30 pm); some frostbite in toes. 30th strong wind and 6:00 pm 4 members missing in descent from C3 to C2 (too cold for walkie-talkie batteries) but found 9:00 pm, reached C2 10:00 pm. 31st on down and 1st Jan decided abandon climb because strong wind, very cold, members exhausted, loss of weight, some altitude sickness and some frostbite; food nearly finished and plan was to stop at end Dec. Left BC 3 Jan to 5th Jan. Kim "very disappointed" by Sherpas who were reluctant to go high: they were afraid that if they reached col, they would have to make summit bid.

  Lee Yeon-Guen developed leg infection after 10-meter fall when snow bridge collapsed.

  Oxygen used for sleeping at C3 and climbing to Col.

accidents:
  Yoon Ho-Keun bad frostbitten toes at C3 Dec 20 and went home; 3 more slight frostbite; Lee Yeon-Guen bad leg infection


expid: EVER89308
peakid: EVER
year: 1989
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Ken Kanazawa
sponsor: Kathmandu Club Autumn 1989 Everest Expedition
ascent1: 97th
bcdate: 1989-08-25
smtdate: 1989-10-13
smttime: 1230
campsites: BC(25/08,5350m),C1(03/09,6050m),C2(09/09,6450m),C3(17/09,7300m),C4(04/10,7950m),Smt(13/10)
accidents: Kurotaki frostbitten fingers (1 may be bad)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 slightly below South Col.

  5th Oct 1st attack by Mitani, H Ohnishi, Yamamoto and 2 Sherpas reached 8200m when hit by avalanche from SW Face: Ang Phurba not hit and pulled out Mitani, Yamamoto and Nawang Thile with Ohnishi, and all Ok. 

  2nd attack 7th Oct from col by Kurataki, Futamata, Nakanishi, Moti Lal Gurung and Tshering Dorje to 8210m and again avalanche and very strong wind.

  3rd attack from BC 10th in C2, 11th to C3, 12th to C4 and started from col 13th at 2 am in full moonlight and reached top 12:30 pm. Mitani first, Lobsang, Chuldin Dorje, H Ohnishi and Yamamoto in that order; on top only few minutes because of strong wind. Japanese party was before Koreans and Mexican last. Returned to C2 same day. 

  4th attack 15th Oct from col without oxygen by Ando, Takahashi and Hori and then defeated by wind and down to C2. Now (15th Oct) climbing finished.

  Avalanches hit both times at 4:00-4:30 am.

  Lobsang's actual name is Tchiring Thebe Lama.

  This was Mitani's 6th Everest expedition, 1st success on Everest.


expid: EVER89312
peakid: EVER
year: 1989
route1: S Pillar-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim In-Tae
sponsor: Kim In-Tae Autumn 1989 Everest Expedition
ascent1: 98th
bcdate: 1989-09-03
smtdate: 1989-10-13
smttime: 1230
campsites: BC(03/09,5400m),C1(04/09,6200m),C2(07/09,6400m),C3(12/09,7400m),C4(19/09,7800m),Smt(13/10)
accidents: Park Hee-Taek frostbitten toes that will heal probably but not certainly
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 at right side of pillar
  C4 at right side of pillar.

  1st summit bid 23rd Sept by Cho Kwang-Je and Kim Bum-Taek and reached 7850m (above S Summit but below Hillary Step) and turned back because snow waist-deep and returned to C4. 

  2nd summit bid 8th Oct only because strong winds till now. 2nd bid by the same 2 members with Cho Hyo-Je and Park Hee-Taek and reached 8100m before defeated by wind. 

  3rd bid successful. 2 members left C4 10:20 pm 12th Oct in full moon. Park Hee-Taek turned back at S Summit while Cho Kwang-Je went on up with Japanese and Mexican climbers when they met at S Summit. Reached summit at 12:30 pm, after Japanese party and before Mexican. No more summit bids after this.

  Bad relations with Sherpas: one member's nose broken by Sherpas at BC; expedition hired Sherpas directly, not through trekking agency.


expid: EVER89309
peakid: EVER
year: 1989
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Mexico
leaders: Carlos Carsolio Carrea
sponsor: Carlos Carsolio Carrea Autumn 1989 Everest Expedition
ascent1: 99th
bcdate: 1989-08-31
smtdate: 1989-10-13
smttime: 1235
termdate: 1989-10-18
campsites: BC(31/08,5350m),C1(05/09,6250m),C2(11/09,7300m),C3(19/09,7900m),Smt(13/10)
accidents: Luengo and Elsa bleeding from cold wind blowing into eyes
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 in Western Cwm
  C2 on Lhotse Face
  C3 on South Col.

  Progress good at first but then bad weather with heavy snowfall. Had planned 4-day rest but started up only on 2 Oct (1 Sherpa and 3 members - Enrique Luengo unable to see well) with Carlos and Elsa to go to top. In Cwm 2 nights, Lhotse Face camp 2 nights (bad weather and wind), 6th Carlos and Elsa arrived at col but strong wind and Elsa bleeding corneas, so she went down to C2 while Carlos up alone and met Japanese and then came big windslab avalanche which hit Carlos and Japanese and down to BC all together. 

  Elsa and Luengo stayed in BC while on 11th Carlos and Alfredo up to Cwm camp, where Alfredo stayed with throat infection. 12th Carlos reached col, but camp had been destroyed by wind so slept in Japanese tent. 13th started 1:20 am 13th, earlier than Japanese, but Japanese caught up with Carlos and together to top. "All time windy but not extreme - just enough." Japanese on summit first, then Koreans, then Carlos, only 5 minutes apart. Japanese down very fast and Carlos, without oxygen, reached col camp 1-1/2 hours after them. 14th down to BC. Left BC 18th Oct.

  Parapented from Kalapattar and lower on way back from BC (not counted as parapente descent because below BC).


expid: EVER89314
peakid: EVER
year: 1989
route1: Lho La-W Ridge from S
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Suk-Woo
sponsor: Lee Suk-Woo Autumn 1989 Everest Expedition
ascent1: 100th
bcdate: 1989-09-15
smtdate: 1989-10-23
smttime: 1230
campsites: BC(15/09,5200m),C1(28/09,5900m),C2(07/10,6900m),C3(12/10,7400m),C4(20/10,8050m),Smt(23/10)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  BC 50m below other Koreans and Japanese BC's
  C1 below Lho La on its north side
  C2 just below West Shoulder on north side.

  Notes by E. Hawley - Nov 2004

  On 4th Nov, I met Nuru Jangbu Sherpa, a summiter on this expedition. He is 50 years old and speaks only basic English, but interpreting for him in the Sherpa language during much of the interview was Ang Rita Sherpa of the Himalayan Trust. Nuru Jangbu had some difficulty recalling details of the 1989 climb, but he appeared to be doing his best.

  He said that base camp was at the normal site for teams climbing Everest from Nepal. They made C1 on the Lho La and climbed all the way to the summit via the West Ridge -- did not go over onto the North Face and into the Hornbein Couloir. Their other high camps, C2 and C3, were on the West Ridge.

  It took Nuru Jangbu, Nima Rita Sherpa and the Korean (whose name he never mentioned) 11 or 12 hours to climb from C3 to the top. This last day's climb was "very difficult," he said several times in English. "Sometimes very steep, sometimes many rocks." There was mixed rock and snow on the route; they fixed 300 meters of rope from C3 to the summit. Nima Rita was in the lead, then came the Korean and last was Nuru Jangbu. The two Sherpas were not using oxygen but the Korean was.

  All three men definitely reached the summit. "If Korean no going to summit, I no going to summit," he said firmly. They were there at 12:30 pm; the Korean took pictures of the two Sherpas and they took pictures of him. (Nuru Jangbu was unable to find his copy two years ago).

  The descent was also very difficult because all of them were extremely tired. They worked their way down from the top in a sitting position because of their exhaustion. They returned to C3 at 6:00 pm.

  Pertemba Sherpa was base camp sirdar for a Japanese team climbing Everest at the same time via the South Col-SE Ridge. He told me on 8th Nov that his team had to make three attempts to reach the summit because of a lot of snowstorms and finally three members and two of his strongest Sherpas succeeded only on the third try, on 13 October, after "a long wait" for better weather. (Also on the summit that day were the Mexican, Carlos Carsolio, also via the South Col, and a Korean up the South Pillar). When his team left base camp, the West Ridge team were still on the mountain. (The West Ridge climbers summited ten days after his team's men).

  Nima Rita later told Pertemba back in KTM, "We were successful," but "it was very difficult and I nearly died," meaning he nearly collapsed. He did not specify who the others with him were nor did he gaive any details of the climb. Pertemba did not -- and does not -- doubt Nima Rita's claim of success.


  Sange Sherpa (Interview with Liz Hawley) - 6 Feb 2004

  I met the Korean autumn 1989 Everest sirdar, Sange Sherpa. He is 67 years old and not well, but he kindly took the trouble to come into the center of town to meet me. 

  He said he never went above south-side base camp in 1989; from there he could see C1 and C2, but not higher ones since they were on "the back [north] side" of the mountain. I showed him a diagram of the North Face and asked whether the climbing route had been here, across the face into the Hornbein Couloir and up to the ridge, and he said no, they had stayed close to the ridge all the way -- they climbed "ridge direct."

  He added that he had seen the Couloir (he did not give it a name) from Kala Patar and it is "very difficult." (He didn't know that it had ever been climbed.)

  The team's climbing sirdar Nima Rita told him back in base camp that they had reached the summit. (He himself never reached any summits in a long career of working with expeditions because his father, a monk, told him he should not go where the gods live.)


  Korean Everest Expedition, autumn 1989 - Notes by E.Hawley, 10 Jan 2004

  Yesterday I met Mr. Lee, the leader of the Korean team on Everest in 1989. He acts like an old man although he is only 48, he seem to be ill, his English is only so-so and sometimes difficult to understand, and his conversation strays from the point, but his conviction that his summit team was successful came over very clearly. He does no climbing these days; he is a journalist and is representative in Nepal for the Korean Alpine Journal and The Man and Mountain Publishers in Seoul.

  He said he had been asked by numerous people over the years about his team's success. He attributed the problem to a Korean climbed named Nam Sun-Woo, who had summited Everest in October 1988 via the South Pillar and who fully 18 months later raised questions aboute the veracity of summit claims by Lee's Everest expedition; he also questioned those of other Korean teams to Manaslu, Annapurna I and two other peaks. Lee pointed out -- quite rightly -- that some Koreans climbers are like this," discounting successes by compatriots; he cites the well known case of Um Hong-Gil vs. Park Young-Seok. I remember Nam as a pleasant fellow who imported a lot of extra boots -- perhaps other items -- with his expedition baggage to sell in Kathmandu.

  Lee said when questions started coming after Nam expressed grave doubt because summiter Chung had no summit photo, "I shut my lips" and refused to discuss the subject. But being called a liar has been "like a cancer inside my stomach" all these years. He opened his lips only to speak to me because I am an old woman whom he respects, and he will not talk about the subject again (whether not to me again, was not clear). I asked him several times about the fact that the Korean Alpine Federation does not recognize Chung's ascent, but he never addressed the point.

  Lee revised his description of the actual climbing route. He originally planned for the route to be the same as the American 1963 West Ridge route via the Hornbein Couloir, but when he came to Kathmandu he was told by Prachanda Man Shrestha (Ministry of Tourism mountaineering section) and the South Korean embassy (who had referred the matter to Seoul) that they must not cross the border into Tibet. At that time South Korea had no diplomatic relations with China, as China recognized its close friend North Korea as the only legitimate government of the Korean peninsula. So at the last minute their route was changed. He did not explain why he told me the wrong route when he returned to Kathmandu in 1989 and I did ask this awkward question, which would have been embarrassing for him and pointless anyway.

  So they climbed entirely along the W Shoulder and W Ridge to the summit and back to the Lho La. Lee himself went no higher than C1 just below the pass, presumably not on its north side. The altitudes of C3 and C4 were the same as he had said in 1989 with C4 on a snowfield on the ridge. The Chilean team on the W Ridge from the north and Lee's people had their C4 tents as the same place and occupied them at the same time (but this doesn't jibe with the information that the Chilean leader gave me). Lee added that two Chilean tents were destroyed by the fierce winds and seemed to say the two teams shared Korean tents (but this may be wrong and I did not press the point). The two teams even shared the same walkie-talkie wavelength.

  Lee seemed to explain his incorrect information to me in 1989 about his team's actual route by saying that he had returned to Kathmandu early and spoken to me before his team members and sirdar (Sange Sherpa) came back; his was ill with a stomach problem at the time.

  Chung did not have a summit photo because his camera had rolled down the North Face. But Lee is certain that Chung, Nima Rita and Nuru Jangbu were successful since Nima Rita (now dead, as Lee pointed out) had been to the top in October 1988 and was positive that they had been to the summit this time. "I am sure our team had complete success.... We were a big expedition -- this was not a small team or a solo climb -- so how can it not be true? Many other teams there too."


  Eberhard Jurgalski - 2002

  Chung's success later doubted by Korean Alpine Federation since he could not provide them with an adequate description of the upper part of the West Ridge route. His name was removed from their list of Everest summiters.


  Lee Suk-Woo (post-expedition interview) - October 1989

  BC at 50m below other Korean and Japanese BC's
  C1 at below Lho La on its north side
  C2 at just below West Shoulder on north side

  C1 to C2 very difficult. Deposited two O2 bottles & made platform at 8400m for bivouac on return. Weather now in 20th Oct & strong wind like winter & with no one else now on mountain so had halfway decided to abandon climb, but carried on. Had to descend same route as that of ascent since S Col team had left & taken away icefall ladders. Summit trio left C4 1-2 am, reached summit 12:30 pm by Sherpas first & Chung slightly later on full O2 flow. In descent slept at 8400m. 24th descended to C3, 25th to C1 & 26th to BC. No chance for second summit attack because food supplies dwindling, members tired & winter weather setting in. High on mountain snow very hard & so easy to climb.

  Used Spanish winch to get loads to C1.


expid: EVER89313
peakid: EVER
year: 1989
route1: S Pillar-SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Franck Charlet
sponsor: Jean-Franck Charlet Autumn 1989 Everest Expedition
countries: Italy
bcdate: 1989-09-03
smtdate: 1989-09-25
termdate: 1989-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 8450m due to lack of equipment, etc.
campsites: BC(03,05/09,5350m),C1(07/09,6100m),C2(10/09,6400m),C3(15/09,7150m),C4(20/09,7850m),xxx(25/09,8450m)
accidents: None
agency: Sherpa Society
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 same as Koreans (400m above bergschrund)
  C4 at right of pillar
  High point on SE Ridge.

  When arrived at BC, Japanese had just fixed the icefall with ladders and rope (paid to Japanese to fix icefall and keep it open), so could go right through. Had good relations with S Pillar Koreans and used each others tents. Koreans fixed ropes on pillar which French used. Pillar route is very good: safe and direct. C4 not in normal place: had left it to Sherpas to pick site, but big mistake as in middle of slope, exposed to wind and uncomfortable. 

  24th Sept 1st attempt from C4 by 3 members in cold and windless day and followed Koreans to S summit. Had arrived C4 late and had bad night and Sherpas then sick. Gouvy had to carry snowboard himself; reached 8400m and turned back, exhausted (previous night no sleeping bags and 1 tent). Gouvy descended to C2 on snowboard entire distance from 8400m, highest place anyone started snow band with 2-3 hrs rest in C4; maximum 1 hr snow boarding total. 

  25th Flouret tried summit alone from C4 but couldn't find sunglasses for ascent and turned back about 8400-8450m at mid-morning because no glasses and down to C2. 

  28th 4 members (De Gayardon's first time using crampons) planning to go up from C4 but descended down in snowstorm and to C2. 2 big avalanches off Lhotse Face but no damage. 

  8th Oct 4 members wanted to go up from C4 but again snowing and in clouds and strong wind so down instead (tents at C4 had been destroyed when arrived day before); down to BC 10th Oct. 

  Ghilini and Charlet head cold and fever and left BC 13th Oct. Waited in Lobuche to learn about sky diving; decided no chance and expedition over 20th Oct. 1 or 2 Oct the two sky divers left BC by helicopter to come to KTM for sky diving onto summit. Had practiced twice in late Aug in Banepa area, but defense ministry upset (at sometime was too near Boeing jet), so when Gouvy in KTM 2nd Oct, tried to get permit but never obtained; pilot was grounded (and still is).

  Abert and Fouques left BC 8th Oct - other commitments.

  The team found their South Pillar route on the right of the pillar itself "very good -- safe and direct." But their C4 at 7850m was badly sited, they found, in the middle of a slope and so exposed to wind. Although no one reached the summit, one member Bruno Gouvy, carried a snowboard to 8400m on 24 Sept and made a snowboard descent from that altitude (believed to be the highest altitud anyone had ever begun snowboarding) to C2 at 6400m; total elapsed time snowboarding was one hour, but he rested for 2 or 3 hours in C4 on the way down. He and Patrick De Gayardon had originally planned to parachute onto the summit from a small airplane and then snowboard down, but the Nepalese authorities refused permission for the sky dive.


expid: EVER89107
peakid: EVER
year: 1989
route1: SW Face
nation: France
leaders: Marc Batard
sponsor: Marc Batard Spring 1989 Everest Expedition
bcdate: 1989-04-10
smtdate: 1989-04-23
termdate: 1989-04-24
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to bad weather and eye problem
othersmts: Attempted Annapurna I (ANN1-891-01)
campsites: BC(10/04,5300m),C1(13/04,6100m),C2(14/04,6500m),xxx(23/04,7800m)
accidents: Batard had painfully wind-dried eyes at 7800m
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C2 in Western Cwm
  High point on SW Face.

  On 10 April by helicopter KTM to Pheriche and same day to BC with "little headache." 11th and 12th in BC. 13th through Icefall, which was in very bad condition (like 1982) very dangerous, moving often up through it for acclimatization but vowed only one more trip up Icefall. 13th and 14th slept in C1 but reached C2 on 14th. 15th up up face to 7200m with no rock fall at all, strangely, on rock face to right of Bonington route. 16th down from C3 to BC and wait for good weather: very windy. In BC 16-21 April. 22 April up from BC to make entire ascent in 24 hours. Left BC 4:30 pm, in C1 at 6:00 pm with help from others (in C1 team from Americans), in C2 at 8:30 pm and stayed with New Zealanders 2 hours to take drinks and rest. Left C2 at 10:30 pm and 3:00 am 23rd at 7800m in almost full moonlight. All the time windy and saw many big clouds coming from west. At 7800m was just below cold and was very windy which affected his eyes (dried then) because couldn't wear dark goggles at night; eyes painful. "So I came down BC" which reached 9:00 am 23rd. Americans gave eye medicine and 24th to Namche, 25th to Lukla and 26th to KTM. Icefall too dangerous to go up again and wanted to have knee fixed in hospital in France (knee locks sometimes especially in cold). Wants to be in good condition for Sept, when will climb Everest and Lhotse (West Face) in same day alone while climbing, but with support people.

  Devouassoux body found at bottom of Icefall; identified by clothing, identification of Chamonix guide and mumified face (body cremated in Khumbu 17 May and ashes scattered).

  "I didn't want to stay in mountain like Devouassoux." Turned back because bad weather and survives. With good weather (no cloud and wind) would have been on summit at 1:00 pm on 23rd and down to South Col.

  "I think I have enough experience - not the first time I don't climb to top - we have to accept it."

  Leave KTM 5 May and return in Aug (Thamserku Trekking, Sherpa Hotel).


  Batard - 9 Apr 1989

  He arrived from Annapurna and Pokhara yesterday; hopes to fly to Lukla tomorrow for Everest.

  "Now I have time" to climb Everest; got little acclimatization on Annapurna so needs 7-10 days acclimatization on Everest.

  "Better to go to Everest quickly" because of objective dangers on Annapurna and with troublesome knee there are doctors at Everest BC.


expid: EVER89105
peakid: EVER
year: 1989
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Jovan Poposki
sponsor: Jovan Poposki Spring 1989 Everest-Lhotse Expedition
ascent1: 93nd
bcdate: 1989-03-31
smtdate: 1989-05-10
smttime: 1730
othersmts: Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-891-01)
campsites: BC(28/04),C1,C2,C3(7400m),C4(09/04,7900m),Smt(10/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C4 at South Col.

  Route had been changed from S Pillar to normal route before Groselj and Bozic reached BC 15th April. Pillar dry of snow and too dangerous and team of Macedonians not so strong climbers. 5 Sherpas carried loads to Col 5th May and camp pitched 9th May when Bozic, Groselj, Ilievski, Jovcevski, Sonam and Ajiwa arrived there. 10th May 3:00 am 5 men (excluding Jovcevski, who reached col at 11:00 pm on 9th and now too tired) left C4 to go to summit; went very slowly without rope; 3 Yugoslavs used oxygen, Aijwa used only when resting (his bottle really extra one for Ilievski), Sonam none. At first excellent snow conditions, warm, not windy; on narrow ridge to S Summmit bad snow. 4:30 pm at S Summit. Again good conditions and at main summit at 5:30 pm to 7:30 pm (Groselj oxygen finished at S Summit and was lost) and met other 2 Yugoslavs at top of Hillary Step). Sherpas first at C4 at 9:30 pm, Groselj at 2:00 am & Bozic at 2:30 am. Bozic without oxygen from summit and slower than Ilievski, who disappeared at 8500m. Bozic waited at S Col one day and night, very tired but excellent visibility. Down from Col to BC on 12th May. Jovcevski, Groselj and 2 Sherpas to C2 on 11th May. Probably Ilievski fell down E Face. After accident, climb abandoned (some instead in Lhotse attempt).

  Only 5 Macedonians reached C3, 2 to C4 [Ilievski and Jovcevski].

  Rob Hall, New Zealand expedition leader, said 28 May 1989: the two summit Sherpas on this expedition carried 2 oxygen bottles each for members, but used none themselves while breaking trail through deep snows.

  Ilievski when descending yesterday at 9 pm from 8044m is missing; 4 others are this afternoon in C2. Search team left BC this afternoon.

  This evening BC radio.


expid: EVER89101
peakid: EVER
year: 1989
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Walt McConnell
sponsor: Walt McConnell Spring 1989 Everest Expedition
ascent1: 94th
countries: Mexico
bcdate: 1989-03-11
smtdate: 1989-05-16
smttime: 1530
campsites: BC(11/03,5350m),C1(04/04,6000m),C2(07/04,6400m),C3(21/04,7200m),C4(02/05,7900m),Smt(16/05)
accidents: Phu Dorje disappeared on descent from summit
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC at normal site (1st this season to make BC)
  C1 a little into Cwm (above normal site)
  C2 at usual site
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at Col.

  Made BC too early but sirdar convinced McConnell they needed to be first and early in. Took 10 days to make icefall route; icefall in bad shape when team arrived and kept moving throughout season and got worse in mid-May as got warmer; "last falls" C1 had become a free standing serac" says Berg. Had to go to close to W Shoulder which had little snow avalanche but having ice walls were potentially dangerous. Didn't start working on icefall with 2 New Zealanders until 20th March. C1 established 4th April because of bad weather; a bit late making C3 because ran out of ropes. 

  1st summit attempt [May 2] from Col at 5:00 am by Berg, Fischer and Jamieson with Berg and Fischer to 27,500 ft and Jamieson to 27,000 ft; turned back by deep snow but nice day. With Sherpa support could have been successful through getting pretty tired already. 

  2nd summit bid by McConnell and 3 others but got only to C3. 

  Third bid from Col on 14th by Berg, Jamieson and Fischer after 2 nights at col with Roddy Mackenzie (Australian) and Kurt Stuewe (Austrian): at midnight on 13/14th 3 Americans set out for top (Roddy down with toothache, Kurt tired and stayed in Camp) and Jamieson and Berg to 27,500 ft and Fischer to 28,000 ft; turned back cold in poor visibility and tired. Fischer at one point radioed he was lost; Jamieson and Berg back in C4 5:00 am and Fischer at 8:30 am.

  Final summit bid on 16th April. From the Col were McConnell, Phu Dorje, Ang Danu and Ricardo Torres Nava but immediately separated: McConnell moved more slowly. Ang Pasang Sherpa who should have been going with McConnell didn't leave Col because of broken crampon. McConnell at 27,000 ft realized had little chance despite its being a mild morning; he was running out strength (had gotten to Col at 5:00 pm 15th) and returned to Col. 3 others got below S Summit and reported 11:30 am would return to Col because of deep snow but decided to go on and summited at 3:30 pm on better terrain; Torres and Ang Danu back at col 6:00 pm and reported Phu Dorje had gone ahead and then disappeared. None of 3 attempts were roped attempts; may have reached 27,500 ft and fallen in their of descent. 

  Fischer found a body at base of gullies just above Col - not frozen, had not been there very long because this is avalanche (chute area); must have been Yugoslav because body could have not have been there longer than few days and was a big man.

  Sungdare left BC drunk and again drinking at C1; would get out of control. Finally left expedition, 7th or 8th May apparently upset that had been delegated as support for McConnell, whose success was somewhat unlikely. By the time Torres Nava summitted, expedition out of steam; had been at BC 60+ days.

  Oxygen used sleeping at C4 (half bottle/man/night) and climbing above C4 by all members and Sherpas.


  Van Snick - 26 May 1989

  Ricardo is very strong and worked "very hard" on expedition - he deserved summit.

  Berg, Jamison and Fischer didn't accept him in their summit party and that's why they failed. They needed such a strong man when they found deep snow above Col.

  Sat for 1-1/2 hours on glacier just above Col waiting for light because had lost other's headlights and didn't know where to go; got frostbite in right fingers while waiting. When daylight came moved up but was probably 2 hours behind them; reached 27000 ft and then turned back: tired, felt shouldn't be climbing alone. Fell 50-60 ft. Ricardo also fell from S South summit 100 ft and arrested fall with ice axe. Phu Dorje got ahead of Danu below S Summit in clouds. Ricardo behind, fell 100 ft and he and Danu came together. Found Phu Dorje's ice axe upright in snow where Sherpas came up with tea just above C4, Phu Dorje missing. Body seen at about 27,500 ft by Kurt Stuewer, Jay Sieger, Gary Ball, et al later but Danu and Ricardo too late to have daylight to search and next day too tired; other Sherpas did not go up.

  Saw body in red jacket and blue pants. Saw body in red face down with red rucksack on back just below old C5 at about 8300m. Yugoslavs now agree that's their missing member.

  Phu Dorje to Everest summit last autumn with Americans. Icefall more dangerous than seen in past years says Danu were not roped together. Others besides Ricardo said not to, why Ricardo doesn't know.

  McConnell may have altitude record for 57-year-old on Everest.


expid: EVER89102
peakid: EVER
year: 1989
route1: S Pillar (to 7000m)
route2: S Col-SE Ridge (to 8200m)
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Rob Hall
sponsor: Robert Hall Spring 1989 Everest Expedition
countries: Nepal
bcdate: 1989-03-17
smtdate: 1989-05-16
termdate: 1989-05-19
termnote: Abandoned at 8200m due to illness, bad conditions, etc.
campsites: BC(17/03,5350m),C1(04/04,6100m),C2(07/04,6400m),C3(24/04,7300m),C4(16/05,7900m),xxx(16/05,8200m)
accidents: Phinzo Norbu blood clot in leg; Hall throat infection; Ball pulmonary edema
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC at normal site 
  C1 at top of Icefall (left there only couple nights)
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse face
  C4 at South Col
  High point on SE Ridge.

  Winter winds had taken all snow away and nothing but ice, very hard ice like granite on Lhotse Face, taking lot of energy. Took 19 days to put route through icefall: put in by Hall, Ball, Jamieson, Berg and Fischer plus Sherpas did almost all this job. Started on Pillar and went to 7000m, then decided rock fall danger, especially when Hall and Phinzo Norbu Sherpa were almost hit by batch of rocks coming down from left of Geneva Spur (much safer in Autumn). Reached high point on pillar route on 22nd and 23rd April; retreated to C2, applied by radio for permission to change route and permission granted by radio. 

  Made C3 on Lhotse Face on 24th and put gear at Col on 25th but tent not erected. Occupied C4: Ball and Apa (Hall had throat infection, Phinzo blood clot) at same time as snowbirds Ang Zangbu, Peter Hillary and MacKenzie. When Phu Dorje Sherpa died on 16th, Apa and Ang Zangbu no longer willing to climb, so at 11:00 pm 16th the three foreigners [Ball, Hillary and MacKenzie] set out for summit (only Ball without oxygen); reached 8200m. Now Ball too cold, Hillary had throat infection and both turned back (MacKenzie alone 200m more in altitude). Ball put on oxygen at Col 3:00-4:00 am and later on 17th to C2 where became very ill (pulmonary edema) and again on oxygen and 18th to BC and this team's climb finished. 

  Apa and Phinzo Norbu with New Zealanders were equal members of team.


expid: EVER89106
peakid: EVER
year: 1989
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Karl Huyberechts
sponsor: Karl Huyberechts Spring 1989 Everest Expedition
countries: Belgium, USA
bcdate: 1989-04-09
smtdate: 1989-05-19
termdate: 1989-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 8600m due to high winds
campsites: BC(09/04,5300m),C1(12/04,6100m),C2(14/04,6500m),C3(20/04,7200m),C4(16/05,7950m),xxx(19/05,8600m)
accidents: Sieger at and above Col
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C4 sited 29th April but slept in only on 16th May. Wind drove them back on 29th April and winds kept them below the col till 16th May, when pitched then 2 tents: was Karl, Annie and 2 Sherpas (Jay Sieger tired and stayed C2). 16th night Karl not well. New Zealanders and Snowbird's Hillary and MacKenzie started up but Annie took so long to get ready, others 2 hrs ahead of her and she did not want to go alone. Karl and Annie went down later in morning separately: Annie with New Zealanders Ball and Hall and Karl with his team's Sherpas, Kami Tenzing and Mapea Sherpa. Karl left his equipment at col but down to C2, then BC to rest. 

  Jay and Austrian Kurt Stuewe went to Col on 18th and started up in night and got to 8500-8600m (below S Summit) and turned back exhausted, bad snow conditions and running out of oxygen. Had used oxygen, food and tents of Snowbird expedition at col (so when Snowbird people got there, found some supplies gone). Karl up again on 22 May from BC. Left BC 25th together, but did not stay together below BC. 

  Was not an expedition but collection of people; Karl was asked to be leader in Kathmandu by trekking agent because original leader unable to come to Nepal; Karl was asked because he was the first member to arrive in Kathmandu and "there has to be a leader before you can go to the mountain." He didn't know the other members before arriving at BC and really knew little about their movements afterwards.

  4 June 89 - Sieger confirmed he reached 8600m on 19 May with Austrian, then oxygen apparatus problems for both and Kurt's crampon broken.


  Allain Hirsh - 18 May 1989

  Jacques Buret to C4 for help Yugos
  Allain Hirsh to C3
  Will try but for Sherpa support above C4
  Tired, sick from Tilicho and left early after sick
  To C2 - sick and on way home
  To C3 - still trying
  Difficult relations/communications amongst team.


expid: EVER89104
peakid: EVER
year: 1989
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Karen Fellerhoff, Peter Athans
sponsor: Karen Fellerhoff Snowbird Spring 1989 Everest Expedition
ascent1: 95th
countries: Australia, Belgium, New Zealand, Sweden, UK
bcdate: 1989-03-30
smtdate: 1989-05-24
smttime: 0700
campsites: BC(30/03,5350m),C1(09/04,6000m),C2(17/04,6400m),C3(22/04,7150m),C4(04/05,7900m),Smt(24/05)
accidents: Viral flu that laid everyone low at one time or other & many even down to Pheriche
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Reached S Col: both Burgesses, Hillary, Lagne, Lapkass, MacKenzie, Porzak, Reutersward, Jeff and Kellie Rhoads, Tettelin and Van Snick = 12 of 15 members and all of them to col once without oxygen except Porzak, plus six or eight Sherpas. Those who did not go above it were defeated by winds until 25th May, when it was snowstorm that sent down a party that arrived that day and went down. Now difficult getting off the mountain and no more summit bids. By 29th May there were 2 meters fresh snow at C2; very dangerous.

  [Aat 11:00 pm 16th the three foreigners [Ball, Hillary and MacKenzie] set out for summit (only Ball without oxygen); reached 8200m. Now Ball too cold, Hillary had throat infection and both turned back (MacKenzie alone 200m more in altitude).]

  Successful summiters left col at midnight of 23rd each carrying 2 bottles of oxygen and dumped one each at S Summit (Adrian Burgess wanted to do without oxygen but used it for expedition's success; in fact carrying 2 bottles defeated usefulness of using one - did actually move more slowly than he has done without any in earlier years). Adrian and 2 Sherpas at top at 7:00 am, MacKenzie alone at 7:30 am (went back to col to repair crampon). 4 back at col by 10:00 am and Adrian to C2 2:00 pm (did not go through icefall same day because it especially dangerous in afternoon)

  Whittaker could have gotten to C4 at least, possibly summit.


expid: EVER89103
peakid: EVER
year: 1989
route1: Khumbutse-W Ridge-N Face (Hornbein Couloir)
nation: Poland
leaders: Eugeniusz Chrobak
sponsor: Eugeniusz Chrobak Spring 1989 Everest Expedition
ascent1: 96th
countries: Canada, Mexico, UK, USA
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1989-03-26
smtdate: 1989-05-24
smttime: 2000
accidents: 5 fatalites on Khumbutse; Lobodzinski altitude sickness; Todd back problem
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(26/03,5350m),C1(01/04,5850m),C2(04/04,6850m),C3(14/04,7200m),C4(21/04,7500m),C5(11/05,8000m),Smt(24/05)

routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C4 at top of West Shoulder
  C5 at bottom of Hornbein Couloir.

  1st summit attempt by Carlos alone from C4 11th May at 5:00 pm and 12th May 3:00 am reached 8200m in Hornbein Couloir; down to C5 at 5:00 am because throat trouble and was given oxygen in C5 for exhaustion and on down. 

  2nd attempt 22 May from C5 by 2 members [Dasal and Gardzielewski] with oxygen at 5:00 am; fixed rope up Hornbein to snowfield at its top (had fixed lower part on 21 May); reached 8500m at Hornbein's top at 2:00 pm and turned back oxygen almost finished. 

  24th May 1:00 am from C5 by 2 members [Chrobak and Marciniak] with oxygen; at 3:00 pm reached top of snowfield; left their oxygen bottles here and went on up without oxygen to summit at 8:00 pm; stayed 10 mins on top (Chrobak arrived first), left nothing there. 25th May 3:00 am returned to C5 (no others in C5) and left C5 at 7:00 am, reached C3 and spent night there while other 2 members [Dasal and Gardzielewski] descended at same time from C4 to C2, where they slept. 26th May all 4 men reached C1; 2 members [Heinrich and Otreba] up from BC to C1 to support them and retrieve gear from C1; all 6 men slept in C1 night of 26th May. 27th 6 men from C1 at 7:00 pm and started up Khumbutse at 10:00 am in deep snow and very slow progress; at 1:00 pm were still on lower part of face of Khumbutse in upper part of a small couloir and avalanche hit. Marciniak only man in control of himself: Chrobak in deep shock and broke leg; 1 man [Heinrich] lived only 15 or so minutes and other three dead. After rescuers reached C1 and Marciniak at 7:00 am on 1 June, BC packed up and left BC 12:00 noon; in BC only 6 members.

  Had left early: 
    Claus, Jacobs, Jeziserski & Rooney - about 2 weeks earlier.
    Lobodzinski about 2 weeks earlier - health not so good.
    Todd left BC 25 April - back problem.
    Hajzer left to climb Lhotse S Face on Messner's expedition.

  Many remains of other expeditions at C1 site because safer than using snow slope up from Lho La which have seracs and snow avalanching. Bulgarians and all on West Ridge route thereafter used the same route.

  Route to C1 via Khumbutse discussed and decided to use it because snow conditions on Khumbutse were good until the last days of season; and in last days Yugoslavia-Catalan route was also being avalanched.

  11th Dec 89: A Polish party this month went to bury the 5 bodies but could find no trace whatsoever; could not find large rock they were near. No ropes left on Khumbutse; had been much avalanching since May, snow was deep. Priest said prayers, items from widows left at site and memorial plaque installed near BC. Party led by Krzysztof Paul, member of spring 1985 Polish Cho Oyu expedition.

  Were in couloir Khumbutse going up to return to BC when avalanche came down couloir at 1:00 pm. Going single file up fixed rope. Was 3rd on rope from its top. Chrobak and Gardzielewski changing over lead as avalanche hit at about 6000m, about 500m from top of couloir. Avalanche carried 6 men down to bottom  to glacier and broke ropes - 3 covered by snow; Dasal hanging (dead) on rope, Marciniak and Chrobak not covered. Chrobak in shock near Dasal and could do nothing except go down on his bottom, talking nonsense. Marciniak dug out three others. Heinrich still alive and talking nonsense too; Marciniak put jacket on him. Heinrich died in 15 minutes with broken back and perhaps other injuries. Chrobak kept going down while Marciniak tried to resucitate Otreba, failed then up to Dasal, found him dead, cut rope and body down. "4" bodies left where they lay when Marciniak went down to Chrobak already on glacier with broken leg with ribs and back injuries. Marciniak put him in sleeping bag on platform; 2 men slept in sleeping bags in open that night. During night 2nd avalanche danger same couloir, Marciniak got himself out of snow got Chrobak out of slight snow cover. Chrobak still alive, Marciniak could scarcely talk but put another sleeping bag on Chrobak and pulled him down 40m. Was snowing now but Marciniak happy they are two alive, but when Marciniak went to Chrobak after radio contact with BC, saw sleeping bag not on Chrobak; tried to talk to Chrobak but no answer as Chrobak died in his sleeping position; must have died during night. Marciniak made snowhole for his own shelter, waiting for rescue from BC, from which about 6 people tried to go up to him on 28th but could not because snowing and avalanching. So BC advised him to go to C1, which was not at Lho La but at 5800m on Rongbuk Glacier just north of point 6145m on National Geographic map. Left snowhole at 1:00 pm and reached C1 in night 28th May, took long time to find camp because in thick cloud/mist. At C1 could now have his first tea (after drinking water on top of tent) since avalanche. By now was snowblind but a little vision. Was alone till rescuer reached him on 1 June morning. He had decided to go towards Rongbuk monastery; had no food and fuel left C1 to walk to Rongbuk monastery and was about to leave when rescuers arrived. When he was dreaming or hallucinating but went out of tent to look, saw figure not clearly and they saw him. They embraced. He felt weak but walked all the way to Chinese BC, where Chinese truck waited.

  Wants to go back to Everest? "No"
  Lost lot of weight, how much don't know (Hajer says 7-8 kgs)

  Hajer - KTM/C1 5 hours, from midnight 29 May - 8 hours trek from BC
  and returned KTM 11:00 pm 2nd June.

  Gary checked Marciniak's body and Marciniak started down immediately.


  Ang Tshering, Asian Trekking - 1 June 89

  Rescue team arrived at La 7:00 am. Polish weak but no danger of death. Arrives Rongbuk monastery this eve where vehicle is. Hope Chinese mail helicopter from Rongbuk to Zhangmu and Asian trekking sending small boy to border this evening. 6 left BC about 10:00 am.


  Peter Hillary - 1 June 1989

  Peter left BC late on 27 May after news of Polish disaster had been received at BC.

  2 summiters coming down from top and 4 supporters met them probably on 25th at C3. 6 down to C1 at night end of Lho La. On 27th terrible snow conditions. 27th took 2-1/2 hours from C1 to find bottom fixed rope on Khumbutse started up Khumbutse and were hit by avalanche off Khumbutse's East Face in early afternoon of 27th. 1 man broken ankle and shock and unable to talk, other broken ribs. These 2 dug out a body and tried to recusitate but failed.

  When Peter left BC 2 were left lying out without tent, could be that Marciniak returned to C1.


  Messner - 29 May 1989

  Rob Hall, Gary Bull, Artur Hajzer and a Sherpa leave KTM midnight tonight by road to north side of Everest BC, which they expect to reach in 2 days to bring Marciniak from Lho La camp. He is snowblind and his broken ribs but walking. Took this route to reach him because of avalanching down steep slopes to Nepalese side.


  MFA via Bhola Rana - 28 May 1989

  Marciniak descending alone from C3 towards C1 as of 5:00 pm radio contacts. Others below could not go up to help him.


expid: EVER89108
peakid: EVER
year: 1989
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Josef Hassler
sponsor: Josef Hassler Spring 1989 Everest Expedition
bcdate: 1989-04-28
smtdate: 1989-05-15
termdate: 1989-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 8600m due to bad snow and ill health
campsites: BC(28/04,5300m),C1(01/05,6050m),C2(03/05,6500m),C3(12/05,7200m),C4(13/05,7900m),xxx(15/05,8600m)
accidents: Hassler altitude sickness
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col
  High point on SE Ridge.

  From C2 down to BC; up again 10th May to C2 and on 12th to C3. 13th Kurt Stuewe to C4 and 2 days there. Sepp Hassler wanted to go to S Col but turned around at 7850m because of altitude sickness and down to C3. Hassler to C2 on 15th. 

  15th Stuewe tried for top with Jay Sieger of French expedition; they had slept at col on oxygen of Yugoslav expedition (without asking or paying for it - "gave some trouble in BC"). Started 12:30-1:00 am of 15th. Jay to 8600m and Kurt at 8650m at 1:00-2:00 pm; defeated by deep snow and too hard for them; both using oxygen (Kurt's Yugoslav system not working well). Slept again at S Col on 15th, on 16th down to C3, where Hassler was and together to C2. Kurt and Jay stayed stayed in C2 watching weather conditions but made no other summit attempt. Kurt to BC 21 May. Hassler had ordered porters to leave BC 22nd and they left that day.

  Kurt and Jay stayed on in C2 watching weather conditions but no other summit attempts.


expid: EVER88308
peakid: EVER
year: 1988
route1: SW Face (up); SE Ridge-S Col (down)
nation: Czechoslovakia
leaders: Ivan Fiala, Jaroslav Orsula
sponsor: Ivan Fiala Autumn 1988 Everest-Lhotse Expedition
ascent1: 92st
bcdate: 1988-09-09
smtdate: 1988-10-17
smttime: 1340
othersmts: Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-883-02)
accidents: 4 climbers disappeared; BC visitor suffered concussion from fall
agency: Mountain Travel
campsites:
  BC(09/09,5350m),C1(12/09,6150m),C2(14/09,6450m),Biv1(14/10,8100m),Biv2(15/10,8400m),Biv3(16/10,8600m),Smt(17/10)

routememo:
  BC  at normal site
  C1  at top of Icefall
  C2  in Western Cwm
  Biv on SW Face
  Biv below South Summit.

  First made route on Lhotse Face with Koreans. Made C3 at 7250m and C4 just under chimmney leading to summit at 7900m where spent only couple of hours. Left at 10:00pm, climbed during night and on Lhotse summit 6:00 am 28th Sept. Just and Becik only to summit. Bozik and Jasko stayed at C4, saving Lhotse top for after Everest after descending to S Col. Lhotse used primarily for acclimatization. All 4 descended to C2 on 28th and down to BC 29th for rest. No camps or ropes put on Everest SW Face. 

  1st Everest summit bid on 7th Oct defeated by wind before got above C2. 12th left BC and 14th started on SW Face at 3:00 am: 4 climbers with inner lining of 1 tent, 2 sleeping bags (for the 2 intending to go to Lhotse afterwards), food for 3 days, cooking stove and gas, 240-m pieces of climbing ropes, 4 ice axes, 2 ice hammers, 3 small cameras and 1 light video camera. 14th Oct 1st bived at 7:00 pm, 15th arrived 2nd biv at 5:00 pm feeling fine and weather good. Had planned to climb couloir 1st day but more hard ice and more technically difficult than they had expected. 16th to 3rd biv at 7:00 pm but took 2-1/2 hrs to build platform there. Had taken long time crossing snowfield, which took whole day. Fiala now feared something wrong. One member now sick and exhausted (Becik) but they continued up because felt it impossible to descend couloir they had exited. 17th 9 am, 4 men started towards S Summit, which they should reach at 10:00 and main summit at 11:00 am. 13:40 radio contact Just said he was now on main summit alone, Becik not well day before decided not to try for it and was waiting below S Summit; other 2: he did not know whether they trying for top or descending to col. Just on top 15-20 min, said extremely cold and windy. 15:00 hrs next contact; Just said now to S Summit, Becik not there and other 2 not seen, probably on way to col; Just having problems with vision (probably retinal hemorrhage). 16:00 hrs Just said he met other 3, then 5 mins later said Becik missing; Bozik and Jasko, he said, had same problems with vision and feeling lost; Jasko also lethargic and had to be persuaded to go on. 17:30 hrs Just said Becik reached them from above and Becik in best condition (could see properly); they found orientation and were midway from S Summit to Col and all OK [at 8300m], could see the way; will give more info in 2 hrs when at S Col. This was last contact with these 4 men. Americans reached Col at 18:00-18:30 in good visibility and could see entire route to S Summit but no nobody, no headlamps in the dark til late at night; at 23:00 hrs wind got very strong (100 mph, Americans said); at C2 4 of 7 tents torn apart in shreds - probably were blown off ridge down E Face.

  "One of the most serious attempts on Everest" says Fiala; hardest attempt to climb in Himalaya.

  Team's four strong climbers acclimatized on Lhotse's West Face, and two, Just and Becik, climbed during the night of 27/28 September to Lhotse's summit. Then to the Bonington route on Everest's SW Face without fixed camps, fixed rope, Sherpa helpers or bottled oxygen which they began at 3:00 am on 14 Oct carrying minimal gear. On first day did not make expected progress: more hard ice and greather technical difficulties than anticipated. On third day moved very slowly, spent whole day crossing snowfield. Becik now sick and exhausted, but continued up because would be unable to descend the face and must descend via South Summit-South Col. Just managed to gain summit, but all disappeared on descent to Col, probably blown off by the winds.


expid: EVER88309
peakid: EVER
year: 1988
route1: S Pillar-SE Ridge
route2: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Rob Hall
sponsor: Robert Hall Autumn 1988 Everest-Lhotse Expedition
ascent2: 91st disputed
bcdate: 1988-09-09
smtdate: 1988-10-14
smttime: 1700
termnote: Success disputed
othersmts: Lhotse W Face to 7800m (for acclimatization on Sep 27)
campsites: BC(09/09,5350m),C1(12/09,6100m),C2(14/09,6500m),C3(25/09,7300m),C4(7900m,13/10),Smt(14/10)
accidents: None
achievment: 1st woman atop Everest without oxygen
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face.

  This party were officially members of the Czechoslovak team to the SW Face, but they were actually a separate group. They went up Lhotse's West Face to acclimatize, then Ball, Hall and Atkinson ascended the South Pillar with Ball gaining a high point of 8100m on 12 October. The woman member, Lydia Bradey, did not attempt the pillar, went up only the Lhotse Face, reached the South Col, was seen at the South Summit and said she got to the summit by herself on the 14th. Her claim was disputed by others, including the New Zealanders, who even issued a statement saying she could not have done so, but a Spaniard who summited on the same day as she says she did, believes her detailed account. She was the first woman to scale Everest without bottled oxygen.

  Ball to 7800m on Lhotse on 27th Sept and Bradey to same altitude on 30th for acclimatization. 12th Oct Ball, Atkinson and Hall went to Korean's C3 on S Pillar route on 7500m; Ball alone to 8100m on same day at bottom of SE Ridge. 13th Oct Bradey to Col and 14th above Col (left Col 2:00 am and on S Summit 2:30 pm on hands and knees (seen by Spaniards there). Hall, Ball and Atkinson left BC on 14th. Reported by radio at BC that Bradey reached BC safely and without frostbite, but whether she summited or not was not reported. Later she claimed success, but doubted by other NZers and Spaniards.

  NZers really were reported by team from Czechoslovakia: relations were not good since NZers paid $25,000 to participate in the climb with Czechs to provide all gear, food, etc., but gear badly delayed on shipping and this, NZers feel, cost them the summit.

  NZers had no intention of climbing on the middle of SW Face like the Czechs, but to follow the Korean's Pillar route after the Koreans finished. NZers asked Tourism Ministry for permission to climb via S Col and this was refused. Bradey went to Col in defiance of this written refusal.


  Bradey - 3 Nov 1988

  Bradey is now not claiming summit because she believes penalty against her will be lighter than if she did press her claim. Still has no doubt that she reached summit, but she has given Tourism Ministry a statement that she may have been confused.


  Lydia Bradey - 1 Nov 1988

  12 Oct - BC to C2.

  13 Oct - C2 to C4 where shared a tent with a Frenchman Denis of TV group.

  14 Oct - 2:00 am left C4 at same time as several Spaniards and Ang Rita and another Sherpa. They moved well ahead of her while she proceeded slowly. She saw them far ahead just below S Summit (time not known since had lost her watch). They went out of sight and she took a long time to climb the ridge to South Summit, rested and daydreamed, then realized she was losing lot to time and began to move again. Tried to move quickly and got to S Summit at about 3:00 pm (Spanish said it was about this time) and sat down. Spanish were on the way down and had a walkie-talkie; one asked her what her name was, but she didn't want them talking about her on the radio, didn't want people at that time knowing what she was doing. Spanish said "should go down" and she was thinking slowly about going on up or down and decided to try going up. Spanish party moved on down while she went up. She kept trying to have pattern of steps and breathing and didn't sit down to rest any more. Walked up Hillary Step which has some rope and steps, then around the left of a crevasse and on to summit where saw nothing. Was there at about 5:00 pm. Rested sitting down very few minutes and then down (left nothing there). Constantly moved down to 8200m (she faced out almost all of the way) after moving more slowly with rests. Spanish 3/4 hour ahead of her at C4 at Col; they said she arrived at 8:30 pm, 1/2 hr after night fall. Spent night in same tent but alone after heating snow to drink.

  15 Oct - through C3 where met Americans and on to C2.

  16 Oct - to BC by lunch time. When arrived at Spanish tent at col to ask way to her, had all gloves and overboots, not missing anything watch, took 15+ and minutes to go slowly and carefully to her tent.

  "It was there in the moon" and I wanted to try. S Col was only route had equipment on. Had some in C2 and were in C4. Had ambition to be 1st woman without oxygen on Everest summit but feeling inside wanting to climb that motivated her.


  Belvis, Spanish Everest - 28 Oct 1988

  Spanish summiters descending from summit met Lydia Bradey 100m below S Summit. She was on her hands and knees going up. She returned to S Col at same time as Spaniards, who moved very slowly because they were taking a frostbitten teammate who had stopped on the way up.


  Frush and Allison, US Everest - 27 Oct 1988

  Serious doubt that Lydia Bradey actually reached summit of Everest on 14 Oct. Spaniards descending met her on hands and knees near South Summit on her way up. She returned to S Col 1/2 to 1 hour after Spaniards [when she returned she was minus a gaiter and 2 gloves but not frostbitten - from a NZer not on her team]. Very unlikely at all one could get up Hillary Step on hands and knees.


  Lluis Giner - 16 Oct 1992
  Spanish Everest Summiter in Oct 1988

  He believes Bradey reached main summit of Everest. He descended to C3 same day as she and they went to C2 together, talked in detail about problems of final ascent and she must have done it herself, not merely read about it.


  10 Nov - Agony and Acrimony at the Top of the World, by Richard Cowper (Financial Times) (Excerpted paragraphs)

  A New Zealander claims to have made mountaineering history by becoming the first woman to have climbed Everest without oxygen. No one disputes she got to within 200m of the summit, but few believe she got much higher. Her claim has given rise to bitter and protracted argument.
  ....

  Enough doubt was cast on the validity of Bradey's claim to have reached the top of Everest to ensure it was never officially accepted by any of the world's recognised climbing authorities. But, two years on, new evidence I have collected from four members of the Catalan expedition - and from tapes of walkie-talkie conversations between them and base camp - suggests that she was telling the truth.
  ...

  Deeply angered by her lack of team spirit and the 'selfishness' of her lone attempt on a route for which the New Zealander did not have permission, Hall feared the whole team would be banned from climbing in Nepal and he did much to undermine Bradey's credibility. In statements made to the Nepalese authorities and to the New Zealand Press Association he accused her of 'irresponsible misconduct' and of making 'ficticious' claims.

  In an attempt to ensure that he, Gary Ball and Bill Atkinson escaped penalty for Bradey's action he wrote disassociating the team from her 'illegal foray' and alleged that information about her physical condition and the timing of her movements from the Spanish climbers on the South Col route at the same time made it clear she could never have reached the top.
  ...

  Bradey seemed to do little to substantiate her claim and much to undermine it. She had carried no watch to ascertain the times at which she reached crucial stages of the climb, had no photographic proof of her ascent, and had made enemies in unfortunate places. Least helpful of all, when she got back to Kathmandu she temporarily withdrew her claim to have reached the top.

  Nevertheless she does have plausible explanations for everything she did.
  ...

  The Catalans were reported by the three New Zealanders to have radioed base camp at 2:30pm on the afternoon of October 14 to let them know they had 'met Bradey 100m below the South Summit crawling on her hands and knees in 'distress.' Fearing for her life, Ang Rita, a Sherpa, who had just made history by ascending Everest for the fifth time, tried to persuade her to come down but she refused. Bradey's compatriots were told of the content of the radio call at base camp and chose this point to leave the mountain altogether.

  Later the New Zealanders reported the Spanish as saying Bradey had returned to the South Col camp between 6:30 pm and 7 pm on the evening of October 14. If these statments are correct Bradey could not have possibly climbed the mountain in the time available.

  But the Catalans never made a formal statement to the authorities and new evidence gleaned from their diaries, the recorded tapes of conversations between the climbers and base camp and the memories of those on the mountain at the time, shows up startling differences from the New Zealand account.

  Jeronimo Lopez, one of the Catalans who climbed to the summit that day and who met Lydia on the descent, has attempted to set the record straight.

  "I have talked the issue over in detail with Lluis Giner, who listened to all the tapes again, Sergio Martinez and Josef Casanovas, the deputy leader who was in base camp on October 14 and operated the radio. We now agree that: The meeting with Bradey took place on the South Summit at around 2:30 pm when a radio call was made and not 100m below it. (This 100m is crucial to whether you believe Bradey had enough time to climb Everest, because at that altitude 100m could take two hours to climb). Bradey was in poor condition and Lopez asked her to retreat. We saw her crawling but, in retrospect, this may have been because she was resting. We are adamant she was not in 'distress,' although we understand that Ang Rita told her she would die if she tried to go to the top.

  Nil Bohigas made a rapid descent in about 2 hours arriving at the South Col at about 5 pm, four hours before the rest. (This may account for some confusion in the reports made by the New Zealanders). On the way down Bradey overtook Martinez (the injured Spaniard), Giner and myself at around 8:30 pm at 8200m. We arrived back at the South Col Camp at 9:30 pm about half an hour after Bradey."

  If these times are right (and they come from three out of the four Catalans on the mountain at the time) then Bradey had roughly 6-1/2 hours to climb from the South Summit to the top and back down again, not the four hours suggested by the New Zealanders, a feat within the bounds of possibility for a strong climber, though not at all easy without oxygen.

  Says Elizabeth Hawley, doyenne of mountaineering in Nepal and someone who has followed the case closely: "She's a very strong climber. She would be physically capable. She is in the Wanda (Wanda Rutkiewicz: the world's top woman mountaineer) class and ten years younger." Bradey's own version of the crucial stages of the climb now becomes more likely: "I was not delirious. I wasn't hallucinating. When the Spanish left the South Summit I was on my own. I just took it stage by stage. There was some rope on Hillary Step. I used it to help me up. I presume it took me about 1-1/2 hours, maybe two hours, to the main summit. I don't really know.

  I probably got to the top about 5:30 pm. I hardly stayed any time at all.
   
  Then I was back down at the South Col around 8:30 pm. Heaps of people climbed Everest that season. It was no big deal. There were large bucket steps for me to follow. There were holes for ice axes. It wasn't like Messner soloing." Even if the 'new' Spanish times are accepted some experts remain uncertain.

  One authority says: "She appears to have got stronger rather than weaker as she went up. Normally at that altitude you are getting worse. In my book I must place a question mark against her ascent. I don't know whether she herself even knows whether she got to the top. It will probably remain a mystery." Others give her the benefit of the doubt. Says Doug Scott, Britain's most successful mountaineer: "After communicating with Lydia I am convinced she did it. She's a phenomenal climber. She's a big girl. She's strong. The timing is just possible for someone that good ... She strikes me as the sort of person who would not lie about this. I do not think she would risk the damage to her self esteem."


expid: EVER88307
peakid: EVER
year: 1988
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Marc Batard
sponsor: Marc Batard Autumn 1988 Everest Expedition
ascent1: 84th
bcdate: 1988-09-08
smtdate: 1988-09-26
smttime: 1530
othersmts: Attempted Lhotse S Face (LHOT-883-03), climbed Cho Oyu (CHOY-882-01)
campsites: BC(08/09,5350m),C1(6200m),C2(7300m),Smt(26/09)
accidents: None except Batard's inability to retain food or liquid on summit day
achievment: Fastest ascent of Everest; 1 man to scale 4 8000ers in less than 9 months
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at low end of Western Cwm
  C2 on Lhotse Face.

  Sungdare did no climbing on Everest; came to BC on about 17-18 Sept, drunk, asking for money but bringing his gear; he didn't want to climb in 1 day, didn't agree to go ahead of Batard by a day.

   7th Sept - KTM/Thyangboche by helicopter
   8th Sept - arrived BC for meeting with other French climbers
   9th Sept - Pheriche to see radio man
  10th Sept - Lobuche overnight 10/11
  11th  "   - tried to go to top and reached South Col; left BC 8:15 pm
  12th  "   - arrived S col 11:00 am; slept in biv at 7100m 1 hour and 
              and all returned to BC at 4:00 pm; turned back at Col 
              because snow too deep; had 1 Gurung Sherpa from biv to Col
              and they too tired also; all 3 took turns leading
  13th  "   - in BC
  14th  "   - started up at 5:15 pm alone; 6 Sherpas were above him: 1 
              tent at about 6200m
              (in Icefall alone with headlamp, spoke with Chamoux on North
              side) C2 at 7300m; 2 Sherpas.
  15th  "   - Batard slept in C2 1 hour - (2:00-3:00 am).
              Batard up again and met other 3 Sherpas who were making 
              trail; he caught up with them at 7900m they stopped at 
              7900m but Batard on up alone with 1 Sherpa following him;
              Batard made track above 7900m himself (no others above 
              him); at S Col at 8:00 am.
              At 8200m Kami Rinjee stopped at 10:00 am; Batard on up 
              alone without rucksack, in which left down jacket in hot 
              windless day; "it was my mistake" to leave jacket with 
              Kami Rinjee.
      
              At 8600m, near South Summit, cloudy and little (15-20 
              minutes) of snowfall, about 3:00 pm; Batard "getting cold,
              very tired and it was very difficult; snow was very deep"
              at 4:00 pm reached 150m distant from summit (30 vertical
              m); could have climbed Hillary Step, but so very tired, not
              sure of returning down mtn; had done this alone and those
              below saw how high he reached and in 3rd bid others ahead of
              him to top amazed at what he had been able to do (getting so high)
  15 Sept   - returned directly to BC from 8820m; arrived at BC 
              midnight; Kami Rinjee had waited at South Col without tent:
              Batard arrived Col at 6:00 pm and both down (via left of 
              Geneva Supur direct to Cwm) together; at Cwm, two Batard Sherpas
              brought hot tea up from US C2; two Batard Sherpas with him now
  16 Sept   - BC arrived 0:15 am; stayed at BC
              10 days now in BC because very tired at first and then bad
              weather from about 17th with daily small snowfall
  25 Sept   - up from BC at 5:00 pm alone in full moon; Sherpas had 
              been above BC; 23rd Gurung and ? Sherpas had deposited tent
              at Col, but all except Gurung down to BC on 25th, but same
              day Koreans and French arrived at Col
  25 Sept   - slept in C2 where Iman Gurung was in tent; Batard arrived midnight
              and slept 3 hours; Batard alone left C2 at 7300m at 4:00 am
  26 Sept   - Batard arrived South Col 8:00 am, stayed at Col 1/2 hour;
              no one now at Col: Korean leader came through Col, 
              retreating for oxygen-less summit attempt while other 
              Koreans (on oxgygen) and French (all except Metzger on 
              oxygen were at 8500m when Batard saw them; Batard vomitted
              here: from Col to top to BC couldn't eat or drink; had not
              recovered strength from 2nd attempt; without this problem 
              would have made it to top in less than 20 hours.
            - left Col 8:30 am and climbed alone in "good track" of 
              Koreans and French and on top at 3:30 pm; also on top were 
              French. Batard stayed 20-30 minutes and down.
            - stopped at Col because of sickness; still could not drink
              without vomiting; arrived at Col 6:30 pm
  27 Sept   - left Col 6:00 am and stopped in US C2, etc; left BC 12 
              noon and left BC 2:00 pm to Lobuche
  28 Sept   - arrived KTM


  Benoit Chamoux - 7 Aug 1988

  Batard is very strong; is capable of doing "express ascents" between South Col route is very long and much depends on how much trail breaking he must do as well as weather and health.
  1st to do "express ascent" (Chamonix term) was Krzyztof Wielicki in 23 hours to summit (but not down) in 1981
  Chamoux only other:
  23 hours up Nanga Parbat
  23 hours up K2
  23 hours up and down Broad Peak (16 hours up) 
  routes mostly already established by him and others


  EP Hillary - 28 July 1988

  "A partly fair effort" if Batard and/or Sungdare 24 hours BC-top-BC.

  "If in the report, it was made quite clear route established halfway up Lhotse Face, I'd be quite impressed; but if report does not mention all difficult routes established then not so impressed."


  EP Hillary - 18 March 1988

  "Pretty unusual, wish them luck - more legitimate activity - would be remarkable effort - only reservation I would have: I'd be much more impressed if trip up mountain not on fixed ropes put in for him."

  Comment on Marc Batard and Sungdare's 24-hour ascent of Everest Aut 1988.


  Ministry of Tourism - 15 Sept 88, 5:45 pm

  Batard 100m below summit 4:15 pm today and exhausted due to bad weather; lost some clothing and turned back; was alone; where now not known at 5:45 pm.

  10 am today at 8300m. 5:15 pm yesterday left BC.


expid: EVER88301
peakid: EVER
year: 1988
route1: Lho La-W Ridge (to 7800m)
route2: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Lluis Belvis Del Rio
sponsor: Lluis Belvis Del Rio Autumn 1988 Everest Expedition
ascent2: 90th
countries: France
bcdate: 1988-08-10
smtdate: 1988-10-14
smttime: 1250
termdate: 1988-10-19
agency: Kunga
campsites:
  BC(10/08,5350m),C1(25/08,6100m),C2(09/09,6850m),C3(14/09,7270m),C4(30/09,7550m),xxx(7800m); C2(08/10,6400m,C3(12/10,7900m),Smt(14/10)

routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at Lho La (small snowcave for kitchen only)
  C2 at West Shoulder
  C3 at 30m below West Ridge (away from wind)
  C4 on West Ridge at foot of pinnacle
  High point at Hornbein Couloir.

  Between making C3 and C4: fatal avalanche, strong winds and deep snow and tried to find route to C5 in Hornbein. Fixed ropes to 7800m (at 7700m found Parmentier 50m beside his tent, perhaps couldn't find tent in bad weather and froze) and then down. Heavy snow and retreated to Lho La, talked with French to go on their S Col route. 

  With continued bad winds sent 4 Spaniards and Sherpas to W Cwm and on up. Reached S Col on 12th Oct, rested there 1 day and began up to top at 2 am 14th, found dead Sherpas of French team and on to S Summit where Martinez stopped with snowblindness, others reached summit 12:50 pm, stayed 20 mins (had parapente but wind too strong to fly), found Martinez waiting and returned to Col at 8:30 pm. 

  BC evacuated 19th Oct. Belvis, Giner and Martinez to KTM from BC by helicopter 18th Oct. 

  Small avalanche hit C3 21 Sept 7:00 am. In camp were Tomas, "Kali" Mingma Sherpa and Narayan Shrestha in same tent; Tomas cut tent, pulled Mingma out; they pulled out Narayan, who was dead of probable head injury. Both frostbitten fingers and left BC 26th BC for Shrestha 
  cremation.

accidents:
  Giner frostbitten toes and Martinez frostbitten fingers during evening of Oct 14; Shrestha killed in avalanche at C3


expid: EVER88310
peakid: EVER
year: 1988
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Serge Koenig
sponsor: Serge Koenig Autumn 1988 Everest Expedition
ascent1: 89th
bcdate: 1988-09-14
smtdate: 1988-10-13
smttime: 1315
othersmts: Lho La (for parapente flight)
campsites: BC(14/09,5400m),C1(19/09,6100m),C2(23/09,6400m),C3(25/09,7400m),C4(12/10,8000m),Smt(13/10)
accidents: Payot serious brain and circulation problem
agency: Sherpa Trekking Service (STS)
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Problem with team: had to wait till 7th Oct to start summit push from BC until TV program ready (satellite booked until Olympic games ended on 2nd Oct). Had been to altitude to acclimatize already. On 6th Oct it snowed but started on 7th Oct from BC planning to go to C2 that day, to C4 on S Col on 8th and 9th to top, but very windy weather (C1 one of 2 tents blown away and at C2 2 tents broken). 6 members and 10 Sherpas in C2 on 7-11 Oct (during very windy days). 11th evening winds lessened and 12th all to S Col (4 Sherpas went ahead by 3 hrs to place more tents and descended because said not possible to pitch tents). 1 member descended early that day and others did not reach S Col. Koenig and same Sherpas first on Col and actually 3 members and 5 Sherpas slept at Col in US tent (4 men from Spanish team also). 13th too windy and cold to start up till 7:30 am. Koenig and Lhakpa Sonam went up (using oxygen to ensure TV from top) carrying cameras and antenna; 1 hr later Galy and Pasang Temba also started up from Col. Koenig and Lhakpa on top at 1:15 pm (made direct radio from S Summit but on summit a cable was broken so no picture possible but radio OK). Left camera at top for next day's summiters. Very dangerous snow slab conditions above S Summit. Both descended after 10 min and met Pasang below S Summit (Galy had descended from 8500m). Told Pasang too late for him to go to top but he wanted to get to summit as his brother Lhakpa had just done. Both Koenig and Lhakpa carried on down. At 8500m Lhakpa stopped, Koenig assumes waiting for Pasang. Koening at Col 4:30 pm. Pasang not seen beyond S Summit but think he got to top because so late to descend (Koenig looking all afternoon-evening for Sherpas to be seen descending but not seen until night fall) though maybe got into US tent during night. 

  2:00 am on 14th 4 Spanish, 2 Spanish Sherpas, 1 NZ woman (without oxygen), Ducroz and 1 TV Sherpa started up from S Col. At 3:30 am TV Sherpa came back saying 2 dead Sherpas (but sounded like bad Sherpas) and 4 am Ducroz reported were 2 dead men. He turned back unwilling to take pictures on mountain with 2 dead people on it, but others continued up. Koenig and Ducroz up later that morning and brought bodies to Col and later to C2, early put into crevasse in sleeping bags. Lhakpa and Pasang had fallen (but were not roped together); Lhakpa had broken skull and Pasang many broken bones and clothes ripped off.

  No more summit attempts because TV programme finished on 15th and had to wait through period of good weather.

  Koenig parapented from Lho La to BC; had wanted to fly from S Col or above but camera came first, then 2 dead.

  Spanish Sherpas refused to let French TV Sherpas on W Ridge; could not follow alpine-style climbers on SW Face when burdened with camera and sound equipment. 

  This expedition was restricted by a contract for live telecast of the climb which could not be aired until satellite space was available after end of Olympic Games, which meant angry climbers had to wait until 7 October for their summit push and wasted days of good climbing weather. When satellite was available, winds had become fierce, tents were blown away or broken, and climbers spent four nights in C2 awaiting break in winds. In the end only leader and Lhakpa Sonam Sherpa gained the summit on the 13th (perhaps another Sherpa, Pasang Temba, did also alone) and both Sherpas had fatal falls in descent. No more summit bids: two bodies had to be retrieved, terrible winds resumed, and the TV program ended on the 15th.


expid: EVER88306
peakid: EVER
year: 1988
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Francois Poissonnier
sponsor: Francois Poissonnier Autumn 1988 Everest Expedition
ascent1: 82nd
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 1988-09-01
smtdate: 1988-09-26
smttime: 1430
campsites: BC(01/09,5350m),C1(07/09,6100m),C2(09/09,6400m),C3(15/09,7200m),C4(25/09,8000m),Smt(26/09)
accidents: Robert bad edema at C3
achievment: 1st parapente descent; 1st Frenchmen to top without oxygen
agency: Sherpa Trekking Service (STS)
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face near seracs
  C4 at South Col.

  C1 made quickly because Americans had already nearly finished putting in route (for which paid Americans $3500 and similar amount to Koreans). Spent 1-1/2 hrs on top to take photos and Boivin's parapente flight of 12 mins from summit to C2 (took time to get wind properly in his parapente for take off). No ski descent (Batard had ordered Sherpa to throw most of skis in river below BC and LO said all such descents forbidden). Only one summit bid because had to leave BC 28th Sept for jobs back in France (and to be in France same time as Batard to get share of publicity).

  Batard arrived at summit while Metzger, et al still there. 

  Batard and Poissonnier did not speak to each other; enmity originated in Dec 1987 when Batard ended Dhaulagiri I climb before Poissonnier and others were ready to climb.


  Tourism Ministry - 29 Sept 1988

  5 French and 3 Sherpas climbed Everest via SE Ridge
  Reached the summit at 2:30 pm and stayed there for 1-1/2 hours.
  Left C4 at 3 am on 26 Sept.
  Left summit at 4 pm same day and stayed at C4 on that day.


expid: EVER88303
peakid: EVER
year: 1988
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: James Frush
sponsor: James Frush Autumn 1988 Everest Expedition
ascent1: 86th,87th
countries: UK
bcdate: 1988-08-22
smtdate: 1988-09-29
smttime: 1030
termdate: 1988-10-24
campsites: BC(22/08,5350m),C1(05/09,6000m),C2(12/09,6500m),C3(27/09,7225m),C4(28/09,7900m),Smt(29/09,02/10)
accidents: Frush mild frostbite (could go up only in gentle weather)
achievment: Allison 1st American woman on Everest summit
agency: Jai Himal Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  From 12th to 27th Sept were stocking higher camps without occupying them and sent people down to rest; had problems getting Sherpas to work. 

  Allison, Ruoss, Frush and 3 Sherpas in 1st summit team and occupied C3 and C4 first. Planned these 3 Sherpas would carry extra oxygen as they all set out from Col just after midnight of 28th with Frush and Pasang Gyalzen breaking trail (Frush found snow up to his waist) and took 6 hours to 8500m where intended to change bottles; 2 of 3 Sherpas, Frush now discovered, had turned back very soon after leaving C4 (one complained of tight gaiters and other went with him). Now oxygen supply only good for 4 people for 2 hours and knew would take at least 4 hours so Frush and Ruoss gave extra supply carried by Pasang Gyalzen to Allison. Although Frush and Ruoss felt fine, they felt it better not to try oxygenless ascent and thought would have another chance. 

  2nd summit bid was by Tabin, Luce and 3 more Sherpas. 

  Never got a team past C3 after this: storm came along on 4th Oct with strong winds. Frush got mild frostbite so could go up only in gentle weather. Frush left BC 14 Oct and when he left 5 climbers were in C2 hoping for summit push.


  Added data

  Hambly, Goodman and Dailey on South Col 16 Oct but weather terrible and they went down next day with some frostbite. Petroske and Ruoss twice to C3 and then summit bids had been aborted (1) when French threw 2 Sherpa bodies down face and (2) need to help frostbitten Spaniards descend. Climbing ended on 17th, all off mountain 19th and BC evacuated 24th.

  Geff Tabin 28 Oct: his party reached summit 40 minutes before Nam of Korean expedition on 2 Oct.


expid: EVER88304
peakid: EVER
year: 1988
route1: S Pillar-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Choi Chang-Min
sponsor: Choi Chang-Min Autumn 1988 Everest Expedition
ascent1: 83rd,85th,88th
bcdate: 1988-08-22
smtdate: 1988-09-26
smttime: 1430
othersmts: Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-883-01)
campsites: BC(22/08,5350m),C1(04/09,6050m),C2(07/09,6400m),C3(15/09,7250m),C4(24/09,8060m),Smt(26,29/09,02/10)
accidents: 1 with gastric ulcer but kept climbing
achievment: 1st Korean ascent via Pillar
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 at start of S Pillar
  C4 on S Pillar.

  Joined normal route at 8300m; route very steep C2 to C4 especially C3 to C4 at 65 degrees. Made Icefall route with Americans and joined equipment so paid them nothing (as others did). Mrs Schmatz [body] not seen (much snow on mountain).

  Koreans on 26 Sept made track to Hillary Step and there French took over the lead. Summit reached in following order:
    Frenchman
    Pema Dorje
    3 Frenchman and 1 Swiss
    Um
    3 Sherpas with French
    Batard


  1988 Korean Everest-Lhotse Expedition by San-Ak In

  KAF's Everest-Lhotse Expedition has been organized with the memory of the 1988 Seoul Olympic Games for its main object.

  BC was firstly established by the advance party on Aug 9th. On the way to C2, they advanced through the Icefall in partnership with the American Expedition. Weather had been bad after C2 was built up on Sept 7th, so that from Sept 9th, all the members had recess at BC and C1.

  C3 of 1 box tent was arranged on snow face after cutting the 60-degree slope of surface, which was about 500m upward over the rock. It was South Ridge end.

  By Sept 18th, the ropes were fixed to the height of 7800m. Next day they established C4.

  Then a selection was made for the first attack. Climbing leader Mr. Seon-Woo Nam and member Chang-Seon Kim, Hong-Gil Uhm started BC on Sept 24th with Pema Dorji and 2 other Sherpas. From C2 to C4, they should cover 1660m of altitudinal differrence in a day. Leader Nam climbed down in bad condition, while the pair Kim and Uhm started for C4 with 2 Sherpas on Sept 26th.

  Ahead on 7 French members they proceeded their route to S Summit through deep snow. Arrived at S Summit at 12:15 pm. Alternating in the lead, the French and the Korean climbers went on. Finally at 2:30 pm, member Kim and Pema Dorje firstly stood on the summit. Member Uhm reached at once, even the other Sherpa went back around the South Summit.

  The second attempt was followed from BC on Sept. 27. Starting C4 at 3:40 am, Mr. Bong-Wan Jang (subleader), Byeong-Ho Jang and Seung-Kyon Jeong again conquered the summit at 8:50 am. It was Sept 29th. On the top, they recorded those wonderful panoramic views on a videotape with them, where they came across an American climber Alison.

  The third attempt was timely planned for the closing of the 1988 Seoul Olympic Games - to win both Everest and Lhotse at the same time. Based on the expectation of the summit on Oct 2nd, the both parties departed from BC on Sept 30th.

  The Lhotse party (member Ho-Jin Jeong, Hyeong-Chil Lim, Kwae-Don Park and Hee-Dong Park) stayed at C4 on Oct 1 in two tents. One was already built and used by Czechoslovak climbers who previously conquered the summit on Sept 28th and the other was newly established by themselves.

  Mr. Seon-Woo Nam, the climbing leader, spent that night alone at Everest C4 with his great ambition to climb up solo. At 3:00 am in the next dawn, he started. Following the ropes fixed by the first party, he climbed the Hillary Step and overcame the Peak Cornice. Then he finally gained the summit.

  On the other hand, the Lhotse party started at 4:00 am on the same day. They passed over the unstable and steep couloir (500 meters long) without using the ropes for belaying. After more than 5 hours of climbing, they could just over come the last obstacle - the snow face of 30 meters long with 65-degree slope. The summit was all pointed. It was 9th achievement by Korean climbers above 8000 meters height.


expid: EVER85304
peakid: EVER
year: 1985
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kuniaki Yagihara
sponsor: Naomi Uemura Film Expedition
ascent1: 72nd
bcdate: 1985-09-16
smtdate: 1985-10-30
smttime: 0950
campsites: BC(16/09,5350m),C1(01/10,6000m),C2(04/10,6500m),C3(14/10,7450m),C4(28/10,7980m),Smt(30/10)
achievment: Oldest Japanese on summit
routememo:
  BC at usual site
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  4-14th Oct bad weather. 14-28th Indians not making successful ascent and Japanese had to wait. Fimally at end of Oct Indians agreed Japanese could now go up. On 30th, Ang Rita and Ang Phurba set out for top with Japanese on 30th, but both turned back. Ang Rita was attempting 4th ascent without oxygen. Akutsu and Kimoto bivouacked at 8600m on descent.

  16 Sept-1 Oct film-shooting and Indians not climbing "so we couldn't go up." 4-14 Oct bad weather. 14-28 Indians not making successful ascent and Japanese had to wait, finally at end of Oct Indians agreed Japanese could now go up (Yagihara had already decided would send up summit party on 30 Oct). On 30th Ang Rita and Ang Phurba set out for top with 8 Japanese on 30th including Saito but 2 Sherpas and Saito turned back after 100-200m only (Ang Rita throat trouble, other 2 oxygen masks broken). Yagihara at top 9:50 and Yamada 10:00 am; returned to C4 about 2:30 pm. Nazuka and Saegusa to C4 also and 3 on down to C3 leaving in C4 Murakami, Saegusa and Sato. Akutsu couldn't came down (snowblinded and tired), so Kimoto and he bived at 8600m beyond South Summit without biv equipment. 

  Murakami alone carried up [the next day with oxygen for rescue]. Oxygen and reached bived men at 3:00 am (if he did not go Akutso, aged 47, would have died) although had oxygen all night). Kimoto had bad frostbitten toes and heel, Sato bad frostbite 7-8 fingers. No more summit bids because very cold and strong wind after that (30 Oct including, no wind). 

  Miyazaki had altitude problems and to C2 only.

  Did not see Mrs Schmatz's body nor Chinese tripod.

accidents:
  Kimoto badly frostbitten toes and heel; Sato bad frostbite 7-8 fingers; no more summit bids because very cold and strong wind; after that Miyazaki had altitude problems


expid: EVER85303
peakid: EVER
year: 1985
route1: S Col-SE Ridge (to 8725m)
route2: SW Face (to 7775m)
nation: India
leaders: Prem Chand, Jagjit Singh
sponsor: Prem Chand Autumn 1985 Everest Expedition
countries: Nepal
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1985-08-24
smtdate: 1985-10-07
termdate: 1985-10-28
termnote: Abandoned at 8725m due to lack of strength
campsites:
  BC(24/08,5400m),C1(07/09,6100m),C2(11/09,6600m),C3.SCol(20/09,7300m),C4(06/10,7900m),xxx(07/10,8725m); C3.SWFace(24/09,7010m),C4(27/09,7225m),C4(05/10,7775m),xxx(7775m+)

routememo:
  BC at foot of Icefall
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face 200 ft below Yellow Band
  C4 at South Col.

  No technical problems on SW Face and confident that chimney & rest of route had no problems; team abandoned face to concentrate on S Col route following disaster there on 7th Oct. SW Face climbers suffered "touch of cold injuries" only snow & wind. Team had permission for difficult SW Face and the normal S Col-SE Ridge route. Team was split in half.

  S Col team suffered major disaster between 7th-11th Oct when five members perished in stormy weather on S Col. Two summit parties (14 climbers) arrived on S Col on 6-7th Oct. One group attempted summit on 7th making 8725m before weather deteriorated. Kumar fell to death during attempt. Group returned to S Col. On 8th Oct, all descended from S Col except six who wished to wait out impending storm. Two more descended on 9th. Other four tried to descend on 9th and 10th but could not find fixed ropes for descent. Rescue team from below returned on 11th - all four were dead.


  Yamada & Saito, (Japanese Everest expedition) - 17 Nov 85

  Indians failed on Everest because
  1) Had army mentality - if members killed, send in more from Delhi.
  2) Leadership did not understand how to climb Himalaya. Logistics bad.
     Members and Sherpas became very tired, leader did not understand this.
     Did not get into position to take advantage of good weather brief periods.


  Prem Chand - 12 Nov 85

  1 members and 1 Nepal Sherpa left Col for summit to return back to Col. Left 4:30 am (5 members and 1 Sherpa) plus K. I. Kumar and Bakshi.

  7th Oct summit party turned back about 2:30 because visability deteriorating so badly almost whiteout (12:30 weather turned bad) and deep snow making slow progress.

  K. I. Kumar at 2:00 pm radioed had lost goggles and oxygen bladder punctured. Told to come back. 3:30 Bakshi says Kumar has slipped 1500 ft and plus send rescue doctor, was told to stay where he was to wait for ND Sherpa's party. Bakshi saw him slip out of sight - body ended at Cwm seen sliding by kitchen boy.

  All others of summit party returned to South Col that afternoon, now 14 people in C4.


  Oct 8 - ND Sherpa, Rinzing and Lalit and others started down but 2 returned to Col. ND Sherpa and 7 actually came down leaving 6 in Col camp.

  Oct 9 - 2 more came down: Rinzing and Lalit came while others started, returned to Col probably because Bakshi's condition. Bahuguna that afternoon indicated rescue needed and told would be sent on 10th

  Oct 10 - rescue party started up Lhotse face but high winds, snowstorms.

  Oct 11 - at 4:30 pm 1 member, 2 Sherpas reached Col. Bakshi and Dr Negi died, Bahuguna couldn't speak and soon collapsed. Roa asked for water. Sherpas left because late, feared for their lives. I.B. Gurung brought Rao to slabs short of Col, slipped, put body down (now not talking), and ordered to anchored body and descend - his body probably came down in avalanche. Later one body stuck in crevasse, others also not recovered.

  Oct 12 - all in BC.

  Oct 14 - started up, got to C1 and C2 and then again bad snowstorm.
  Oct 20 - again started up


  Summit attempt:

  Oct 2 - Sherpas only dumped loads at Geneva Spur, nowhere moved loads to Col and descended.

  Oct 8  - Never left Col

  Oct 27 - left Col, got to 27,000 ft and dumped stores there - strong 
           prevented push to top.
  Oct 28 - another party including Busa left Col, approached dump. 
           Angchuk lost his balance, slipped, pulled Bissa with him - 
           stopped at snowfall above Col, Bissa injured knee. Retreated 
           to Col and below. No one returned to Col on this expedition.
           Had planned to send men to Col to retrieve bodies but Japanese
           did this: pushed bodies down on 29th.
  Oct 28 - Prem Chand knew his team could make no more summit bids and 
           told Japanese then could go up. Formal decision to call off 
           climb had to come from Delhi and chief was away, so 5 Nov this 
           decision taken in Delhi.

  (this was only decision made in Delhi and was actually only a formality).


  Ind. Everest press conf - 11 Nov 85

  Prem Chand :

  Left KTM 7 and 9 Aug to Jiri. Made new trail and arrived 24 Aug BC
  C1 established and route then
  C2 09 Sept
  C3 14 Sept 24,000
  S. Col reached 2 Oct 200 ft below South Summit

  C3 SW 21 Sept
  C4 SW at 23,700 
  C5 Sw 4 Oct at 25,500
  Reached 26,600 ft at base of chimney.

  After accident on 7th face team came down and decided to concentrate on South Col route bad weather condition took heavy toll of strength and their disaster of 7th. Again attempted summit but 5-6 ft snow in Cwm.

  20th Oct again up to finish what dead friends sacrificed for. Whole route buried in snow and had to be reopened. C3 restablished (had been totally destroyed). Made route to Col very quickly and 26th C4 reoccupied. 27th attempted for summit but wind so fierce could not go for top but put camp at 27,600 ft and went down. Another party up from Col 28th and when reached summit camp one slipped and pulled other towards South Col field and saved. Now resources exhausted. 

  Death at South Col: Oxygen supply plentiful, nations still there and fuel and burners also still there. Could not find fixed rope and once blizzard started couldn't move. Kumar slipped in blizzard when could not find the way.

  Rescue attempted: requested by Bahuguna 9th evening and sent 10th but wind pushed them back and faces covered with layer of ice which peeled off. 11th party reached Col, 2 dead, Bahuguna died soon, Rao alive at 4:30 pm when one member and 2 Sherpas reached him. Tried to carry him down: brought him to slabs of South Col, slipped and was ordered to anchor him and descend. He was not speaking: don't know whether he was alive or dead.

  6 Oct 7 members and 1 Sherpa 
  7 Oct 6 members and 1 Sherpa arrived to join then (but one dead now).

  Japanese succeeded by striking period of lull in winds: very lucky - used Indian ropes. Indians opened route 3 times.

  Cause of death - exposure and in one case exhaustion (Bakshi). Don't know why they died because camp well stocked, but weather bad. Don't know whether they were in condition to look after themselves at South Col 7-11 Oct.

  No major decisions made in Delhi. I was leader (head of Army Adventure says none during either leadership)

  5 Nov called off the climb.

  Prem Chand resumed leadership as soon as he was found fit. Had broken arm bone in bus accident. Progress on SW Face extremely good. "Only when weather collapsed" they gave up face.


  Yagihara (Japanese Everest)

  Indians gave up 28 Oct and Prem Chand to KTM by helicopter. 2 Oct only 4 members left in BC with Sherpas.

  6 summit attempts. 7 Oct was 1st one. After this disastrous one, no more attempts to climb face.

  7 Oct Kumar fell; others stayed at C4 in Col. 28 Oct last summit bid tried to make C5 and reached 8500-8600m. Sherpas dumped supplies 27 Oct but next day the 2 members who went up couldn't find cache and Prem Chand at C2 decided no more climbing attempts.

  29 Oct 3 bodies through down Lhotse face (other body couldn't find) by Yagihara's  party.

  Indian team could not make decisions. All decisions made in Delhi by a General (neither Jagit Singh nor Prem Chand could decide).


  Tourism - 29 Oct 85
   
  Yesterday all camps very high wind till late night. Most tents damaged. Today weather fair and mild wind at BC.

  Ang Chuk of 2nd summit party blown off in high wind at 14:30 hours yesterday in process of occuping South Summit camp at 27,600 ft. Along with him Bissa also slipped as both roped together. Bissa tried to arrest his slip with ice axe but both continued rolling and fell 700 ft down slope. Luckily they stopped in snow at South Col. Ang Chuk unharmed but Bissa minor injuries. Both escorted to lower camps by other members. 

  9 Sherpas ferried to C1.


  Tourism Ministry - 18 Oct 85

  5 members and 4 Sherpas of C2 and 7 members and 17 Sherpas of C1 could not came down yesterday because of bad weather with heavy snowfall and poor visibility.  All the members and Sherpas of both camps are moving down to BC today. C1 and C2 are fully stocked. Because of heavy snowfall all the routes are covered by snow. In the BC there is about 4 ft deep snow. Some members and Sherpas are going up to open the route between BC and C1. 


  Tourism Ministry - 16 Oct 85

  3 members and 4 Sherpas reoccupied C1 on 15 Oct and held up there today by bad weather. Today 4 members and 10 Sherpas moved to C1 from BC to stock and restore while 2 other members and 6 Sherpas moved to C2 from C1 to stock and restore. If weather permits C3 will also be restored.


  Tousism Ministry - 8 Oct 85

  KI Kumar died 15:30 hrs yesterday. He and other 7 occupied South Col camp on Oct 6 for attempt on summit. At 4:00 am 7 Oct party got up to get ready, wind was strong and waited for it to subside. After 6:00 am wind dropped all 8 except Kumar and Bakshi started up at 6 am while Kumar and Bakshi set out 6:40 am and before left confirmed all in good health.

  10:45 am ND Sherpa radioed to expedition but two later men did not come on radio. ND Sherpa was just short of South Summit; snow conditions Ok but wind speed increasing. ND Sherpa and his 5 companions were fit and confident of reaching top in 3-4 hours. ND Sherpa could not see Kumar and Bakshi - mist between the two parties.

  Kumar on radio at 14:00 hours reported had reached South Summit, weather deterioration fast, snow was soft and wind speed increasing. Should they go on BC said no since could not reach Col again safely before dark.

  15:00 hours KI Kumar came on radio and said his oxygen mask leaking from puncture, snow googles fallen off weather cloudy and strong wind but still insisted in going on up and would make South Summit in 1-1/2 hours. BC said go down, but wait for ND's party to descend to him.

  15:30 hours Bakshi on radio: Kumar slipped at least 1500 ft between South Summit at South Col towards South Col side. At same time kitchen boy in C2 told Lt Col Puskar Chand he saw red object coming Lhotse slope just below Geneva Spur next to bergschrund. Chand rushed to site with all available help.

  17:00 hours Chand told Brig. leader that Kumar was dead: fallen more than 4000 ft down Lhotse Face leading to multiple injuries to head and body.

  SW face progress stopped today South col people down to C2 today.


  Prem Chand - 12 Nov 85

  7 members and 1 Nepali Sherpa left Col for summit to return back to Col; left 4:30 am (5 members and 1 Sherpa) plus Kumra and Bakshi 45 minutes later.
  Next summit up from C3 to Col - arrived at about 2:00-3:00 pm
  7th Oct summit party turned back about 2:30 because visibility deteriorating so badly almost white out (12:30 weather turnd bad) and deep snow making slow progress.

  K I Kumar at 2:00 pm radioed had last goggles and oxygen bladder punctured, told to come back 3:30 Bakshi says Kumar has slipped 1500 ft and please send rescue doctor, was told to stay where he was to wait for ND Sherpas party. Bakshi saw him slip out of sight; body ended at Cwm seen sliding by kitchen boy.

  All others of summit party returned to South Col that afternoon, now 14 people in C4.


  Yagihara (Japanese Everest) - 5th Nov 1985

  Indians gave up 28th Oct and Prem Chand to KTM by helicopter. 2nd Oct only 4 members left in BC with Sherpas.

  6 summit attempts, 7th Oct was 1st one. After this disastrous one no more attempt to climb face.

  7th Kumar fell; others stayed at C4 in Col. 28th Oct last summit bid tried to make C5 and reached 8500-8600m. Sherpas dumped supplies 27 Oct but next day the 2 members who went up couldn't find cache and Prem Chand at C2 decided no more climbing attempts.

  29 Oct 3 bodies thrown down from C4 Lhotse Face (other body couldn't find) by Yagihara's party.

  Indian team could not make decisions; all decisions made in Delhi by a general.

accidents:
  Oct 7-8 avalanching on SW Face which sent small slabs, 1 member hit; disaster of Oct 7-11 when Kumar fell and 4 members died of exhaustion and exposure; Angchuk and Bissa fell on Oct 28


expid: EVER85101
peakid: EVER
year: 1985
route1: Lho La-W Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: David Saas
sponsor: David Saas Spring 1985 Everest Expedition
countries: UK
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1985-03-12
smtdate: 1985-05-10
termnote: Abandoned at 8600m due to
accidents: Climbers knocked down by high winds but no one hurt; no serious frostbites or illnesses
campsites:
  BC(12/03,5400m),C1(20/03,6100m),C2(02/04,6860m),C3(07/04,7315m),C4(19/04,7800m),C5(05,8300m),xxx(10/05,8600m)

routememo:
  BC at usual site
  C1 at Lho La (tents)
  C2 on West Shoulder in snow cave
  C3 on crevasse on Shoulder
  C4 at start of West Ridge
  C5 below Yellow Band at Bulgarian camp 
  High point at above Band.

  Problem at the end was that dumped oxygen bottles at very high point could not provide sufficient supply for top and back. In general loose rock, difficulty of this difficult route. 2 summit bids made and decision taken these were all that were possible because no strength left to mount more pushes. Decision taken after having hoped May 6th but when supplying higher camps realized couldn't mount more than one after May 10th and that are only 2 people.

  People got knocked down by high winds but no one hurt. No serious frostbites or illness that went to serious lengths.


  1985 American Mount Everest West Ridge Expedition Report
  The Climb

  Our advance party had already spent several days working to find and fix a route up the 2000 ft of rock that formed the Lho La wall. In a daring and risky maneuver, Jim Bridwell, Andy Politz, and Kevin Swigert ascended a steep avalanche chute and several precariously hanging ice seracs to reach the top of the Lho La wall at 20,000 ft. Once on top, they fixed ropes down a near vertical section of rock that blocked the upper 500 ft of the Lho La wall. Now our efforts turned to reinforcing the route and beginning the time consuming process of moving over 10,000 pounds of gear up the mountain.

  On March 17 Kevin Swigert and Jay Smith made our first attempt to establish a camp on the Lho La. Although they successfully reached the Lho La and pitched a tent there, the gale force winds blowing out of Tibet wreaked havoc on them. From BC the winds sounded like a never ending freight train roaring out of Tibet. For Jay and Kevin the winds meant a sleepless night as they tried desperately to keep the tent from collapsing or blowing away. Finally, in the cold predawn hours they decided to abandon their percarious position and descend to BC. Their fate was a gentle reminder to all of us of the force Everest could muster against us.

  Two days later we successfully moved people to the Lho La and began establishing Camp I on the flat white expanse of the Rongbuk Glacier that stretches for miles into the far reaches of Tibet. Camp I soon expanded to include 15 tents complete with underground kitchen and our famous White House.

  We soon began to probe across the mile of the Rongbuk Glacier that separated us from the steep slopes of Everest Western Shoulder. Our lead climbers carefully found a route across the glacier that avoided the hidden crevasses and located a snow bridge that crossed the bergschrund at the base of the Western Shoulder.
  Meanwhile, everyone else concentrated on carrying loads to C1 and acclimatizing to the higher elevations. Climbing Everest in not at all glamour, it is mostly routine and exhausting work. Climbing Everest is like building a pyramid. Our team began with 30,000 pounds of gear at Base Camp and ended up with a single tent, 2 sleeping bags, 2 stoves, 6 oxygen bottles, food and miscellaneous equipment at 27,000 ft for two climbers to be in a position to go for the summit. Our climb was a team effort, whether you were going for the summit or fixing meals.

  We pushed the route up the steep ice slopes of the Western Shoulder, then into a  narrow ice gully, across the downsloping rocks of the rock band, and into the snow fields at about 22,000 ft. On March 29, with a Pete Athens in the lead, we discovered the snow-filled entrance to the remnant of the French Winter Expedition's snow cave at 22,500 ft that would become C2 for us. Hard work and the constant chipping out of ice from the walls to melt into cooking water soon enlarged it to handle six people comfortably. We welcomed the protection of the cave against the nearly constant winds blowing across the shoulder. But the protection of the cave also could become dangerous. During the last several weeks of the climb, as snow fell every day, we had several close calls when the entrance would be covered with blowing snow and the sleeping climbers inside would awaken with headaches and sickness from near suffocation.

  The steep carry from C1 to C2 along our fixed ropes typically took us about six hours up and two hours down, although our Sherpas did it in about half that time. With our usual weather pattern, you would leave C1 in the still warmth of the morning sun, usually stopping to peel off layers of clothing before beginning the steep ice ascent. By noon, however, those same layers were put on again as the afternoon winds, clouds and snow arose. When the weather shifted each day, the temperature plummeted and the winds became a feared enemy.

  As we continued to ferry loads from BC to C1 and C2, our rotating terms of climbers worked to push the route up the snow and ice above C2 towards C3 and the West Ridge. We soon fixed ropes above C2 to the crest of the northern ridge of the Western Shoulder. Crossing a gentle snow slope, we came to the site of C3 at 23,500 ft.

  Our notorious C3 was located in a covered blue ice crevasse that could hold 3 small tents. With a six foot ceiling and just one tiny entrance hole. C3 earned its reputation as he coldest place on earth.

  Above C3 we pushed the route up a 45-degree snow slope for several hundred feet and then traversed across the Western Shoulder to where the 3 mile long West Ridge connects with the Western Shoulder at about 24,000 ft. Stepping onto the Ridge and looking at the summit, still a mile above us, put into perspective the size of Everest. We looked down on almost all of the big peaks we had passed on the way to BC, yet Everest still loomed above.

  The one and a half mile ridge that stretches from the Western Shoulder to the base of Everest Summit pyramid is one of the longest high altitude climbs in the world. Once we had safely established our three tents at 25,000 ft for C4, we began the task of ferrying gear across this tremendous ridge. Once carry from C3 would take between 8 and 10 hours of slow, plodding, climbing. In the thin air, climbing without oxygen, we measured our progress in terms of reaching the next anchor point on the rope; we lost all perspective of time.

  Above Camp 3 many people hit "the Wall" - the physical and mental test that took its toll on all of us. Each of us felt some of the effects of the high altitude, including headaches, insomnia, loss of appetite, lethargy, weight loss and slow healing. People hit their wall at different points. Indeed, just 10 members reached an elevation of 25,000 ft or more and on two occasions severe altitude sickness struck climbers who had to be escorted quickly down the mountain.

  As we rotated groups into C3 and above, the Wall took its effect on our climbers and our logistics planning, causing us as much as 50% attrition between C3 and C4. Although Andy Politz and Pete Athans had reached the site for C4 on April 19th, it us over 2 and 1/2 weeks more to reach C5. In addition to the extreme altitude and technical rock, we began to encounter greater problems with the weather as fresh powder snow fell daily, slowing our progress and sapping what little energy we had left.

  Despite the increasing odds against us, we slowly pushed ahead, moving supplies and vital oxygen tanks to C4 and pushing the route up the snow field above 4 and into the shattered rock below the Yellow Band. At this point oxygen became the critical supply for further progress.
     
  The Summit Bids

  As our manpower dwindled and the weather worsened, most of our healthy climbers regrouped at C1 during the first days of May and spent long hours in strategy sessions as the reality of our situation forced us to scale back our original plans for several large summit bids.

  On May 3, with hopes high and cameras clicking, we gave a grand send off from C1 to members of our first summit bid. If all went well, found days later Pete Athens, Robert Anderson, Lhakpa and Ang Danu would stand on the summit. The first team stayed that night in C2 and the next day pushed to C4. At C4 the decision was made that sufficient supplies were in place to support only a two-man summit bid. Robert and Pete would try it alone.

  On May 5, Robert, Pete, Lhakpa and Ang Danu mad a tremendous carry of materials to the site of C5 - a 30-degree snowfield at about 27,000 ft. After chopping out a narrow platform in the snow and ice, Robert and Pete erected the tiny tent that would protect them from the bitter cold. After two months of hardwork, our team finally had occupied the high camp.

  Although they had intended to begin climbing from C5 by headlamps at 1:00 am. problems with a stove and Robert's leaky oxygen regulator delayed their departure until 4:00 am - late for a summit bid on such a difficult route. Above C5, Robert and Pete encountered deep powder snow filling the steep gullies leading into the Yellow Band. By mid-morning at an altitude just under 28,000 ft and facing continued problems with Robert's regulator, they called it day, stashed their spare oxygen bottles, and descended, leaving in place fixed ropes over some of the more difficult spots. Although they had not reached the top, Robert and Pete had blazed the way for our second team, C5 was established, the route into the Yellow Band was fixed, and spare oxygen bottles were cached well above C5. Our hopes now rested with the second summit team.

  The radio call that night was lengthy as Robert and Pete informed our second team of what awaited them. Last minute adjustments in logistics were made. If everything went well, on May 9th our second team would try for the top.

  Of course, all did not go according to plan. The next day, as the second team moved to C4, two summit climbers were sick and unable to climb above C3, probably because of the suffocating effect suffered the night before, when the entrance to C2 had filled with blowing snow. Attrition had again taken its toll but we still had Jay, Andy, Robert and two Sherpas at C4. Unfortunately, May 8th begain with high winds and driving snow buffeting the entire mountain. Our climbers would have to stay an extra day at 25,000 ft, consuming precious bottles of oxygen. In the midst of the storm, however, Sherpa Fenzo made a miraculous descent to C3 and returned with much needed fuel cannisters to keep our summit hopes alive.

  May 9th dawned clear and calm. Jay and Robert, with Andy, Fenzo and Ang Danu climbing in support without oxygen, worked their way to C5. The evening radio call confirmed that Jay and Robert, two of our strongest climbers, were poised for the summit. Everyone on the team knew this was our best, and last, chance to reach our ultimated goal. We all wished them the best of luck.

  At 1:00 am on May 10, climbing with headlamps Robert and Jay left what little warmth the tent provided, steped into the bitter, arctic cold and climbed up the steep rock gully that led into the Yellow Band. Shortly after dawn they reached the first team's high point and began the tedious task of switching to the new oxygen bottles stashed there for four days earlier. Jay succeeded, but Robert could not get his valves to function. Eventually Robert took a half full bottle and continued the climb. Several hours later, at an altitude of approx 28,200 ft they stopped to assess their prospects. Looming ahead was the 150 foot vertical cliff of the Grey Step; at least 6 to 8 hours of slow, difficult climbing remained to reach the summit. Unfortunately, Robert had less than 1000 pounds of pressure left in his oxygen bottle - already not enough to reach the summit, much less return.

  As Jay recounted: "We stood there for at least half an hour, just getting colder, and always knowing what our decision had to be." Without oxygen, a descent on the snow covered, downsloping rocks would be dangerous; a forced bivouac overnight would be inviting severe frostbite or worse. Past expeditions had proven the danger of our route. Both the Yugoslavs and Bulgarians had lost climbers during the treacherous descent from the summit. Jay and Robert weighed the risk and wisely descended.

  No one would challenge their decision. We all have considered the "what ifs," but one thing is clear - Everest '85 was not a failure. We had mounted a valiant attempt, but we were exhausted. Our effective manpower at C4 and above was less than half of our team and Sherpas. The deteriorating weather and the prolonged stay at altitude were taking their toll. It was best to leave before we overextended ourselves and left someone on Everest permanently.

  On May 15th, with very mixed emotions, we dismantled BC and began the trek towards KTm and civilization. Our ultimate goal had eluded us but we had climbed higher than most of the other teams that had attempted the West Ridge direct. And, we had done so with no fatalities or serious injuries (not even frostbite). We walked out of BC with all our friends. We left with the experience of a lifetime and friendship that hopefully will last throughout our lives. Few people have the opportunity to challenge themselves day after day to their physical and mental limits; Everest had given us that opportunity for over two months.


expid: EVER85102
peakid: EVER
year: 1985
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Norway
leaders: Arne Naess
sponsor: Arne Naess Spring 1985 Everest Expedition
ascent1: 68th-70th
countries: Sweden, UK, USA
bcdate: 1985-03-14
smtdate: 1985-04-21
smttime: 0930
termdate: 1985-04-30
campsites: BC(14/03,5400m),C1(25/03,6100m),C2(31/03,6400m),C3(07/04,7300m),C4(18/04,8000m),Smt(21,29-30/04)
accidents: Unoccupied tents at C3 and again at C2 blown away
routememo:
  BC at usual site (Bonington slept at BC ahead of main body to team)
  C1 at top of icefall
  C2 at standard site
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at Col amoung all the other debris.

  Icefall really bad: dry, very broken and a lot of movement. Some narrow escapes. Lhotse face also dry, lot of bare ice. Climb went very smoothly. Strong and big Sherpa team and good weather (no bad weather - very little snowfall and little wind at lower altitude while establishing route). 1st summit bid reached Col past South Summit 19 April (Hoibakk, Einang, Nesheim, Ang Rita and Pema Dorje), then tents "wiped" out by wind and next summit party had to bring up new tents.

  Havard in tent at C1 blown into base tent there, a narrow miss from being sent downwards. All tents at C3 when unoccupied and C2 again unoccupied blown away.


  Bonington - 10 May 85

  Hoibakk was strongest member of Norwegians; groups went amazingly well at very high altitude carrying same load.

  Bass's survival touch and go and Breashears really extended - pushed too fast. Bass's being on mountain only 12 days is surely a record (Messner was at 6500m a long time in 1980). Bass has an exceptional physique: mind and muscle with very positive up beat mind and goes very well at altitude and that combination got him through.


  Norwegian Everest press conference - 8 May 85

  Naess:
  expedition planned in '78
  Norwegian members the best they are in Norway
  success due to:
  - very good planning
  - excellent equipment
  - very good team
  - "finest Sherpa team that has even been assembled on one expedition and relatively could not have been better
  - absolutely excellent LO 
  - "Sungdare is exceptionally strong Sherpa, very intelligent was tremendous feel for mountains.
  - when 1st team failed was worried of course about success - one alway is

  When Sungdare, Ang Rita and Myrer-Lund fixed rope on Lhotse face they had done important job. Most memorable day: when I was on top, I don't have all that much power to feel it. When I came down to BC to digest it - it takes a few days to realize it everything went so well in every respect, it was a tremendous satisfaction.

  Ang Rita climbed entirely without oxygen.
  Mrs Schmatz 100-150m above C4 - no doubt it was she
  On summit saw 2 prayer flags frozen in snow

  Bonington: "Next one of sadness because so many of my friends have been on summit and contentment."
   "no way - once is enough for me." Will stick to 7000-7500m peaks. "I found it real hard work." 

  Naess: no accident, no yeti

  Pertemba: "view is much better" this time - "quite happy with all my good friends"

  Kite-flyer wanted to set a new record - nylon kite - reporter works for Norwegian weekly

  Naess: The expense this expedition has born for us is something we take with us - especially relationship with Nepalese people. "Cleaning Everest is a dilemma - to what extent are you going to clean and to what extent risk lives."

  Bass: "I feel great Everest  - it's a long way". Wells telephoned and said he cried for joy when he got news of Bass's success. "When you got up there you're not thinking much about anything else," but did think of Wells and Thapa. "It brings to a close a chapter of my life, the 7 summits odyssey."

  "Hardest part of climb is above where I got in 1983 - its a big mountain up there". "All it takes is one slip, no question of any arrest.

  Bass: Threw over into Tibet a postcard a rock from Everest in plastic bag to Marty Hoey who got him into mountaineering. We didn't have the manpower of the party the day before which why took us longer. 4 years in mountaineering scene.

  On top was going to thank Creator and dedicate his ascent to all plus 50's in world who share with me that the 2nd half of life can and should be the best as so well expressed in Jennison's Poem "Ulysses" (strong in will seek to find, etc.) gotten of the mountain alive

  Bass - 7 May 85

  "I'm glad to have gotten off the mountain alive." So slow descending cause oxygen ran out of apparently leaky bottle not long after started down and used David's remaining supply. That too ran out before they reached bottle they had dumped while on their way up. Hadn't been on mountain long enough for thorough acclimatization.


  Hillary - 5 May 85

  I was thrilled to bits when he got to top - if anyone deserved to get to the top at 200 it was CB because of the many considerable contributions he'd made to Himalayan mountaineering and mountaineering in general.

  Must have been a good season, must have been well organized, had good luck with weather and I guess they're a pretty good team.

  Dick Bass tremendous drive to get to the top of Everest - getting on the years for climbing Everest and making last desperate attempt - stretched himself to the limit nad was necessary for others pretty remarkable that he persisted.

  Pretty remarkable effort for a man of his years and with no real mountaineering background to reach the top.

  I doubt I have been capable of climbing Everest at 55! - also would not have had 2 energetic assistants to help me up - whose job it was to get Bass to the top after more than 100 people have been up the same route we did, people know virtually every proble they will meet, though it still pretty hard work, its more a matter of routine than it was in the earlier days - but its a long way.


  Nors Larsen - 3 May 85

  Breashears had to give his oxygen at top to Bass who was feeling very bad. Bass could not walk down, sat and slid down. Did not make movies on top because too tired.

  Yesterday too hard to carry gear to BC. Today to Pheriche - all members
  (above from Aasheim)


  Banskota, Tourism - 29 April 55

  This morning 4 members and 4 Sherpas left from C4 towards summit at 2:00 am:
  Naess, Hoibakk, Nesheim, Aasheim, Pema Dorje, Sungdare, Ang Rita, Chowang Rinzing (38).

  Seen with binoculars and near Hillary Step 9:15 am going towards top
  from C2 at 10:30 am, 2 pm coming down from Step.

  Bass, Breashears and Sherpa reached C4 yesterday evening. Today stay at C4.
  Weather today fair in am at 12 noon cloudy.


  Banskota - 3:00 pm

  Summit at 9:25 am - had started from C4 1:15 am - all same as earlier given - spent 45 minutes on top and hoisted flags. Aasheim tried to fly kite at top but too low winds. Returned C4 12:00 and 12:30 pm. 

  Pema Dorje was back. 4 Sherpas will stay at C4 tonight and members to lower camps today.


  Banskota, Tourism - 26 April 85

  Naess, Aasheim, Hoibokk, Nesheim, Sungdare, Ang Rita, Pema Dorje, Chowang Rinji intend to go to C3 from C2 tomorrow and to C4 day after if weather good and make summit bid 29 April.

  Dick Bass and David Breashears and one Sherpa intend to go to C4 from C2 Sunday if weather good and to top also on 29 April.

  Today Bonington, Myrer-Lund and Reese (photographer) left BC for Pheriche for rest weather today snowing at BC and above. Route from BC to C2 partially collapsed and they are repairing it today.


  Shyam, Tourism - 23 April 85

  As of 11:00 am:
  7:00 am today Harvard and David Breashears left BC for C2. Naess, Nasheim, Stein, Stokke and Sungdare are at C3. Because of strong wind did not leave C3 for C4 today.

  Bass at C3 yesterday - today to C2. 
  Summit party reached BC yesterday - all are well.


  Banskota, Tourism - 19 April 85

  1st party reached C4 yesterday and made camp there. Today at 4:00 am from C4 and reached South 11:00 am. Because strong wind return C4 and are coming to C2
  Today. No mention whether will try again.

  2nd group are C3 today and to C4 tomorrow for top day after tomorrow.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 10 April 85

  Sungdare, Ang Rita, Bonington and Myrelund started from C3 to Col yesterday. 2 Sherpas reached Col and fixed ropes up to there, but other 2 reached just below col. All 4 returned to C2 yesterday and to go to BC today for rest.

  Weather BC sunny with strong wind this morning. Intend to establish C4 within 3 days from today.


  Bass - 28 March 85

  Kwangde      }
  Parcharmo    } spend April climbing thes three peaks
  Lobuche East }

  Go to BC about 6 or 7 April to drop gear and spend night at Gorak Shep. Go down to Ghat to south side of Kwangde, then up to Thami to Parcharmo. Finally up Bhote Kosi and to Gokyo and Chola to Lobuche East.

  Return to Everest BC 1 May or so. Hope Norwegians finished 7-10 May so can go to Kala Pattar or even C2 for visit. Then in summit push hope to go up from BC quickly. BC to C2 in 1 day, spend 1 day C2, C2 to C4 1 day, top next day weather permitting including on trekking peaks.

  Will established own C2 but use Norwegians C3 and C4. Like to be on top by 15-20 May. Depending on Norwegians and to be present at his 35th Yale reunion on 30 May - 2 June. Will come back to Everest again if doesn't get to top this time.


  Ang Rita's use of Oxygen - Spring 1985:

  Ang Rita and the American David Breashears were together on the Norwegian expedition led by Arne Naess: Ang Rita went to the top on 29 April, and Breashears the next day. In a letter to me dated 2 July, Breashears wrote, "During my ascent of Everest in 1985 with the Norwegian Expedition, I was once again on the South Col with Ang Rita, although we did not share a tent this time (as they had before summiting on 7 May, 1983). I visited his tent several times to speak with him and his tentmate, Stein Aasheim. Both Stein and Ang Rita used oxygen for sleeping before and after the ascent. As on his ascent in 1983, Ang Rita spent the summit day without the use of supplemental oxygen.

  "Please keep in mind that I present these facts to you for the purpose of keeping the record straight. I don't believe that Ang Rita would deny the above (which he has done several times since 1987), or that it matters to him. I can't think of a stronger climbing companion or a Sherpa for whom I have more respect than Ang Rita, and he did climb Everest in 1984 with the Czech expedition without any use of oxygen whatsoever."

  On 17 October, 1988, Breashears told me that in 1985 again Ang Rita slept on oxygen, but he found the oxygen equipment too heavy to carry and so did not climb with it.


expid: EVER84402
peakid: EVER
year: 1984
route1: Lho La-W Ridge (not to Hornbein Couloir)
nation: France
leaders: Eric Dossin
sponsor: Croisiere Blanche Citroen/Everest 1984
countries: Belgium, Italy
bcdate: 1984-11-23
smtdate: 1985-01-16
termdate: 1985-01-28
campsites: BC(23/11,5400m),C1(05/12,6100m),C2(10/12,6800m),C3(13/12,7100m),xxx(16,22/01,7500m)
routememo:
  Fixed 2 km ropes above C3 to C4 site. Until 12 Dec fantastically good weather but after 12 Dec wind started. From Xmas much snowfall as well as wind. Wants to return to W Ridge route next winter with small team, acclimatize in Oct-Nov in Khumbu and begin Everest climb as early as allowed.

  Planned to use oxygen from C5 at about 8000m.
  Sungdare started climbing 19 Jan with this expedition

  Pilon and Rebreyend had to go home on 3 Jan for jobs. Grassi home sick and left with Pilon and Rebreyend. Machado got frostbitten feet and Vagne went home with him. Callande not a climber, but went to C3 and stayed till end. Francou left BC 5 Jan for his work. Ratel left BC 22 Jan. Paul very sick (altitude) and left BC 24 Nov.

  Dossin is making plans to return to Everest's West Ridge next winter. 

  Abiding by their life-saving instinct, took the decision to turn back. Having to abandon all hope of successfully climbing the last stage, a steep rocky ascent, they had no choice but to dismantle their C4 which had been pitched at 7500m (24,600 ft). Weather conditions were extremely unfavorable (constant strong wind and snow blizzards). Under these conditions any fresh attempt would have turned in "suicide."

  Between KTM 5 or 6 days from 29 Jan.


  Korean Everest expedition - 19 Jan 85

  Only 3 French climbers left: Dossin, Chamoux and 23-year-old [Fine?] plus 6 Sherpas left. Italians said W Ridge dangerous, so Nam stayed 8 days at BC and asked permit to climb with French and climbed to 7000m on French route. Then got letter from Oh saying come down (Ministry refused permit because Koreans abandoned attempt). In one month French did not make C4 from C3. They did not bring high altitude food from France, but bought all food in Namche. Also only 3 climbing members left (plus young doctor and leader's wife and cameraman's wife who not climbing). Cameraman went back to French with frostbite and older doctor with him.


  Banskota, Tourism - 4 Jan 85

  LO report of 3 Jan:
  29 Dec Eric Dossin and Vincent Fine making route for C4 about 200m above C3 (7200m = C3). Other members returned to C1 and stayed there after ferrying loads to C2 and C3 from C1. Weather bad since 30 Dec and started snowing.


expid: EVER84401
peakid: EVER
year: 1984
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Oh In-Hwan
sponsor: 1984-1985 Korean Winter Everest Expedition
bcdate: 1984-11-17
smtdate: 1984-12-20
termdate: 1985-01-23
termnote: Abandoned at 7850m due to lack of time to resume climb
campsites: BC(17/11,5380m),C1(02/12,6100m),C2(05/12,6500m),C3(10/12,7240m),xxx(20-21/12,7850m)
accidents: 1 Sherpa hit by falling stone on Lhotse face; 1 Sherpa seriously ill from altitude
routememo:
  BC at usual site
  C1 at top of Icefall (Dutch site)
  C2 in Cwm site of many earlier expeditions
  C3 on lower part of Lhotse Face ( again found others debris)
  High point at 1 hour below Col.

  Icefall in very bad condition: used 70 ladders to make route there, but defeated by wind in summit bid in Dec. Then food supplies exhausted and tents broken. Oh went to Korea for funds for more food, tents and Sherpas but by time he returned to KTM yesterday (with less money than needed), not enough time left to return to mountain. Meeting of 9 remaining members decided to abandon climb. See notes of 19 Jan 1985. Nam's strength not so great this winter: didn't have time to get into condition beforehand.

  Two human bodies were seen near S Col, one of these was blown to near C2.


  Nam - 19 Jan 1985

  Reached C4 site 7850m (Kato camp) Nam and Lin and 5 Sherpas on 19 and 20 Dec. Deposited 8 oxygen and tent and food but did not sleep there. Then 3 days in C3 for summit attack but very strong wind 21-23 Dec and on 23 Dec to C2. 2 Sherpas gave up climb and descended to BC: strong Sherpas but afraid of wind. After left C3 wind broke 1 tent. Nam and Lim and 3 Sherpas and 1 cook stayed C2.

  24 Dec Nam close to BC. Very strong wind that day and all that night those still in C2 holding down tents which wind broke and then to BC on 20 Dec. 25th Dec 2 Nam and 2 Sherpas in C1. 26 Dec all in BC and decided go down to Namche for tents and food. Tried to go to C3 again to deposit food and bring down broken tents and excess oxygen. 4 Sherpas to C3 and Nam and 3 Sherpas to C2 on 28 Dec. 31 Dec again all down. Tents and food and gas now in C1, C2 and C3, C4. No C5 planned.

  Nam in BC till 8 Jan when came to Lukla to meet members there on return from KTM and so to KTM. Leader gone to Korea to get more funds. 

  Now have short time: Icefall's broken now. 30 ladders in BC and need 4-5 days to make Icefall route. Arrived Jan in BC, leaves only 15 days. "I think is very difficult" to complete climb but "I want to go home". Have permit for W Ridge in autumn 1985 and "I want to rest." Leader arrived KTM 22-23 Jan and then is too late but Nam waits for him in KTM to decide to go up or go home.

  Deputy leader Jeong left expedition because vacation ended. 3 other members also left for Korea on 12 Jan because no longer needed: Jang, Kim and Lee. All remaining members now in KTM except Oh in Korea.

  When climbing Lhotse face saw 2 dead bodies from distance under South Col. Very strong wind on 14 Dec and one body blown to near C2 through the air; body and tent and rope and old blue sleeping bag: small boots on feet indicating Sherpa and woman. Koreans planned to bring down body at expedition's end. Could see one other body still high up.

  Nam climbed a little with French during his 8 days "in BC" waiting for permit to go with them; he reached 7000m in early Jan.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 9 Jan 1985

  Leader Oh and Chung Sung-Hun arrived KTM yesterday for further assembly of foods especially high altitude food. Left BC 3 Jan. Oh ordered all other Koreans to return to KTM for maintaining good physical condition and are on the way. 3 arrived today. 5 Sherpas staying in BC and others sent to village homes. Intend to resume climb. 20 Jan leave KTM.

  Lim Byung-Gil, Nam and 2 Sherpas reached highest altitude 7850m 20 Dec and had to retreat because of strong wind.


  Oh - 24 Oct 1984

  This expedition is our "bed-time dream." For last 3 years 1983 and 1984 in coming 2 years we plan 40 Korean expedition in Nepal Himalaya. Budget $170,000 for this expedition. 

  Total weight baggage 9 metric meters[?]. Hire 26 Sherpas including BC 280 porters; after finish climb we stay C2's, spend 1 week cleaning mountain; hope to climb Everest from Chinese side. Wrote 2 years ago but no reply. Has good belief will get permission because good environment between 2 centres in sports and culture.

  In North Korea no alpinism. I hoped for N Korea-S Korea mountain relationss in future. Hope for mountaineering cooperation on North Korea Mountain Paiktu (white National), 2777m is highest in all Korea.

  All members from Yangchung high school.

  Nam's Everest next Everest climbs - permits Ok 1985 W Ridge from Nepal
  Winter 1985 - SW Face.

  I love mountains and climbing and most beautiful is Everest and highest is Everest. I hear someone has climbed Everest 3 times and this world record, but not 3 different routes. I hope make 3 different routes and world record.


expid: EVER84304
peakid: EVER
year: 1984
route1: W Cwm-W Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Peter Hillary
sponsor: New Zealand Everest Expedition
countries: Australia
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1984-08-27
smtdate: 1984-10-09
termdate: 1984-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 8200m due to fatal accidents
campsites: BC(27/08,5350m),C1(10/09,6000m),C2(14/09,6480m),C3(21/09,7400m),Biv(08/10,7900m),xxx(09/10,8200m)
routememo:
  Attempted W Ridge from Western Cwm.

  Really going strong when all 6 left C3 on 8 Oct for top via C4 biv. On 9th Mackenzie did not join final push so it was 5 for summit. Then winds convinced Nottle and Muir to turn back at 8140m while From and Logan went onto 8200m and then turned back when saw object falling (in case they could help in rescue). Winds were so strong on ridge from top of couloir and lower on ridge as well don't think would have succeeded unless had gone down to BC after 9 Oct and waited a week.

  C3 was snow cave on Nepal side of ridge about half way between American '63 C3W and C4W. Reached ridge by more direct route than Americans (to American route's right). Not technically difficult route till very last bit and if Hillary had whole mountain to choose route on would go again to this one.

  Nottle fell about 7:30 am and From one hour later very near same spot. Nottle's body reached on N Face but From's body not seen.


  P Hillary - 22 Oct 84

  We had a very happy trip up to 9th of Oct. Could not have been better acclimatization of all, compatability of members progress excellent. Reached 8200m by From and Logan on 9th. Were climbing solo: all except Mackenzie who stayed at 7900m C4 because not feeling right and weather made it unlikely that summit would be reached. After 2-1/2 hours Nottle, Muir and Hillary decided winds were too high and therefore bitterly cold, decided that chances of reaching top very small, in fact negligible. Winds higher and higher as morning went on. 3 turned back at 8100m shortly after 6:00 am (started 3:30 am) and were descending to C4 when at about 100 linear meters from C4 at about 7:30 am.  Nottle fell - no one saw him fall. Muir was first, Hillary 2nd and Nottle came whistling past 1500 ft down N Face towards Rongbuk Glacier. Surmise he somehow tripped - moved in such a way he fell. Hillary went to body at 25,000 ft altitude. Once I found my friend was dead I came back up again. A dangerous slope that would avalanche in next 2-3 days and he would become part of the glacier.

  From and Logan at 8200m saw something moving down and something therefore wrong and descended. Within 20-30m of where Nottle fell, From fell. A sirdar[?] spot - Logan saw the fall: saw him trip and all saw him fall. Don't know where fell too but presume all way to glacier.

  Logan said it looked like he stood on hard compact snow disk 3 ft across and it slid out on top of rock and his feet came out from under him and he fell very very fast. Stopped their ascent because saw what appeared to be somebody falling. Was very very cold and sometimes windy. If had gone on up it was a gamble whether would have reached top.

  Hillary "I'll decide at same appropriate stage" regarding more climbing. "At present just thinking of going home." 

  Excellent relations with all others on Everest. 

  "I don't really like regulations regulating climbing." Regulating breeds more which breeds more problems. I come from a country where I can go to Mt. Cook and don't have to cook anyone.

  Hillary and Mackenzie's avalanche 29 Sept at about 100m distance from C3 at 7400m 30-40 ft slabs of hardened snow on ridge line heading for the Rongbuk. Had gone out to assess snow conditions and so returned to BC a week and started up on 5th Oct. Roddy had to jump off sideways but Hillary skating and scrabbling for hold.

  "Many parts of climbing Everest technical difficulty not that great." Slope when accident occured 35-40 degree which is not technically demanding. "A slight lapse in concentration which you cannot afford."

  "Have not considered guilty climbing." My outdoor activities will change but "I'm sure I'll always go to this mountain."

  "Brilliant effort": Australians success. Could see same people but not sure who they were, US or Australians. Saw some moving up NE Ridge on 8th. May have had problems with ridge that we were having. "I personally don't give much credence to yeti but if there's a good story lets hear it." 

  Have permit for Kangchenjunga in '86, but I'll decide in due course what to do about it.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 9 Oct 84

  This morning at 2:30 am, 6 members started from 26,000 ft biv, which they reached yesterday - somewhere between biv and summit on W Ridge 2 members fell and were killed. At 7:30 am Nottle fell and From went to search for Nottle and he fell at 8:30 am. Other 4 coming to C2 today. Nottle's body can be seen, From's not seen. Not possible to bring Nottle's body down.

  Expedition finished. Leave BC within 5-6 days.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 8 Oct 84

  All 6 members reached 26,000 ft today. Intending to make snow cave at 27,000 ft to sleep in tonight and tomorrow to start for top 2:30 am.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 5 Oct 84

  Leader and members know left BC at 3:30 am today to go up. If weather permits will try for top within 5 days.

  Australian radio man says 5 Oct evening that all 6 members set out from BC today.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 2 Oct 84

  NZ-Australia Everest waiting for Southerly winds to cease. All 3 camps fully stocked with food and fuel. Just waiting for weather changes for push to summit. Above C3 will have biv halfway to top.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 1 Oct 84

  2 members Hillary and Mackenzie had narrow escape with avalanche which checking route above C3. Both climbers jumped to safety. W Ridge route is unsafe and they are waiting for wind change to clear slab from route.

  Report from Australians radio report today from BC - doesn't say when it happened.


  Letter from Yogendra - 21 Sept 84 

  Apart from 3 of us having respiratory illnesses all goes well  here. Roddy has returned for C2 and Kim to return tomorrow. The other three propose to establish our C3 snow cave today at 7400m on the West Ridge. The weather has been reasonably good this season, so far.

  We have not had any trouble with the police and this have enjoyed use of the icefall route throughout the Duch icefall controversy. However Basecamp is hardly "one big happy family" despite the icefall situation being resolved.

  At present progress the Dutch should summit within the next 2 weeks, we could also but move likely over the next 3 weeks and the Slovaks are moving rapidly up the base of the South Pillar. They are a very experienced and mature team. The US groups have their C1 and C2 well established and have gone trekking until the Dutch have completed their climb.


  Letter from Yogendra - 17 Sept 1984

  Its 2:30 am and I leave for my 3rd trip up the icefall shortly. We'll stay up on the mountain for the next 2 weeks while we established C1, C2 and C3 at an estimated height of 24,500 ft. Everyone is well.

  The politics at BC had been unprecedented in my knowledge. Double side by side, ladders in the icefall due to Dutch Police clash and Dick Bass incident is now openly summit oriented. The Slovaks don't agree amongst themselves what they want to climb - Russian route, Polish route or what so on. The Dutch have until the 5th Oct to climb the mountain before the Dick Bass team will begin its climb. 

  Murray, Nicoll and I spent out a week in Khunde before moving or up valley to BC which we reached on the 27th August. Although I had planned to ascend the icefall today, due to the continuing tensions between the Police team and the Dutch we have decided to "side-line" for a while as we are not large enough to make easy work of the icefall alone. The Police/US team has established C1, yesterday I think it was and plan to put in C2 during the next few days.

  The Dutch are still emphatic that the Police must withdraw by the 15th Sept and now the Police are coming down with "we want to stay on and climb it."

accidents:
  Slab avalanche nearly caught Hillary and MacKenzie near C3; From and Nottle killed in separate falls from same point during summit attempt


expid: EVER84305
peakid: EVER
year: 1984
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Herman Plugge
sponsor: Dutch Everest Expedition 1984
ascent1: 65th
bcdate: 1984-08-29
smtdate: 1984-10-08
termdate: 1984-10-11
termnote: Success unrecognized
campsites: BC(29/08,5350m),C1(02/09,6020m),C2(13/09,6400m),C3(21/09,7300m),C4(02/10,7980m),xxx(08/10)
achievment: Vos's summit claim has been disputed by Czech team Sherpas
routememo:
  2 Sherpas slept in C4 in 2 Oct, first Dutch on 3 Oct. On 5 Oct 1st summit attempt made by Timmers, Ubbink & Oefner who all reached about 8600m on one oxygen bottle each but when reached 8400m (when hit ridge) encountered deep snow with breaking crust on top of it, ran out of oxygen and time. Ubbink stayed C4 while other 2 went to C2. On 8 Oct Vos, Mourik and Ganesh Gurung set out for top at 2:00 am; Mourik turned back when oxygen ran out at 8600m; Ganesh stopped at S Summit not wanting to go on and Vos went on to top, left his pack at S Summit so no oxygen from S Summit. Took 1-1/4 hr from S Summit to top where he found nothing and left nothing at 4:30 pm. Vos arrived C4 8:00 pm and C2 next day, which he spent on oxygen and intravenous fluids. Another attempt by Timmers, Oefner and Pertemba scheduled 11th for but C4 tents torn apart by wind during night of 10th and had to go down. That ended the climb.

  First summit party of Timmers, Ubbink and Oefner reached about 8600m on 5 Oct but had to turn back because of deep snow with thin crust, which made progress very slow, and oxygen supply exhausted. Second party of Vos, Miss Mourik and Ganesh Gurung left Col camp on 8 Oct together, but Mourik turned back at 8600m when her oxygen was finished, and Gurung stopped at South Summit while Vos claims he himself went on to the main summit, having left his pack, oxygen gear and camera at South Summit. He found nothing and left nothing at the summit, and there has been considerable debate ever since as to whether he actually did reach main summit. (He was in such poor condition when he got down to C2 in the Cwm that he spent 9 Oct on oxygen and intravenous fluids). Another attempt by Timmers and Oefner plus Pertemba Sherpa was scheduled for 11 Oct, but wind tore open their tent at the Col camp during the night of 10-11 Oct and they had to descend instead.


  Shrestha Tourism - 9 Oct 84

  This morning's message is cancelled; correction is:

  8 Oct Vos reached to by himself at 4:30 pm. Mourik and Gurung and Vos left South Col 2:00 am. Ang Temba stayed at Col not feeling well. After reaching 8400m because of insufficiency of oxygen, Mourik and Gurung compelled to turn back. Vos left camera and oxygen at South Summit went on up to main summit where he stayed 5 minutes. Left nothing at South Summit. He left microfilm which has names of people who helped expedition.

  Last attack on top Friday by Timmers, Mourik, Edmond Ofner.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 5 Oct 84

  4 failed today. 3 turned back 200m from top. Got low on oxygen and bogged down in deep snow. 1 turned back very soon after left C4. Some are now in C4 and others in C2. Next attempt in a few days.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 5 Oct 84

  2 Oct sirdar Mingma Tenzing Sherpa and Ang Dorje Sherpa stayed at C4 at 7980m
  3 Oct climbing leader Han Timmers joined them at C4
  4 Oct no movement
  5 Oct intend to go to top - weather good. 3 other members and 1 Sherpa intend to 
    go to C4 today for summit attempt tomorrow.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 3 Oct 84

  A team of Dutch climbers hope to make attempt on summit within 48 hours of 17 hours yesterday. Han Timmers and 2 Sherpas expedition to reach top first followed by 3 other Dutch members next day. Today planned to step tonight at C4.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 2 Oct 84

  Reached South Col yesterday 2:30 pm and expect assault in next few days. C4 to be established at Col.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 12 Sept 84

  According to a letter from Nepal Police HQ, the Dutch expedition was allowed to use the route made by Nepal Police from 5 Sept and Dutch reached C2 site.

  When Tourism Ministry sent Dutch LO's report to Police HQ, ministry said police team should allow Dutch to use their route and that until and unless the ministry gives its sanction to the agent, the agent is not valid. Ministry also informed Dutch LO of above 2 points.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 11 Sept 84

  Tourism Ministry have sent to police here text of Dutch LO and asked whether they have comments regarding report from Dutch Everest expedition's LO revealed by ministry yesterday.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 10 Sept 84

  Dutch Everest LO report:

  31 Aug BC 5350m
  Police team set up C2 by 31 Aug
  LO of Dutch received message from mountain that Dutch team would not be permitted to use route to C2 made by police. Since alternative route very dangerous until today, Dutch have not been able to climb.

  Sept 5 Dutch LO, Plugge and Inspector Thapa discussed situation and 
  following understanding:
  1) from BC to C2 Dutch can use police made route
  2) C2 to South Col route to be made by Dutch which police can use after Oct 4
  3) route BC to C2 to be maintained by both teams 
  4) before 4 Oct police cannot go above C2 but after 4 Oct police can go above
     C2 to South Col and above
  5) Dutch will inform police about condition of route and campsites if police 
     request Dutch will leave fixed ropes to South Col
  6) American members with police will be considered members of police expedition 
     at all times and Americans will be considered bound by this agent
  7) After Dutch established C3, police can go there twice a week for 
     acclimatization but cannot sleep in camp overnight. Police can put their 
     tents next to Dutch tents to store equipment.

  Dutch LO asks ministry for instructions regarding this agent. Will ask police to explain police failure to comply as they have been instructed to cooperate with Dutch at all times and should not impose conditions.

  So far ministry stands by the permission to police team to be down at BC on or before 15 Sept and ministry will ask police how they are making conditions about their own climbing after 15 Sept.


  Autumn 1984 ascent of Everest by Bart Vos disputed:

  I met the Dutch expedition's climbing leader Henri (Han) Timmers in Kathmandu on 20 October, 1984, after they had returned from their climb. He told me that Vos, Miss Mourik and Ganesh Gurung set out from their Camp 4 at the South Col for the summit at 2:00 am on the 8th of October; Mourik turned back when her oxygen ran out at 8600m, Ganesh stopped at the South Summit not wanting to go on, and Vos went on to the top. Vos had left his pack at the South Summit, so he had no oxgyen from there on up. It took him 1:25 hours from South Summit to main summit, where at 4:30 pm he found nothing and left nothing. He was back in Camp 4 at 8:00 pm and Camp 2 the next day, which he spent on oxygen and intravenous fluids. The expeditions that year published a book which stated Vos reached the top alone; the chapter on the summit was written by Vos.

  But soon stories emerged contradicting Vos's summit success, and a lively debate sprang up in the Netherlands -- it has continued ever since, with some Dutch climbers who say they know Vos well declaring he would not claim success if he had not reached the summit, and other expressing doubts about his success. I have talked with Dutch mountaineers in Kathmandu about this dispute over the years, and with other knowledgeable people as follows:

  - American climber David Breashears, who was on the mountain at the same time, told me in Febuary 1985 he was on the same flight from KTM to Bangkok in October as members of the Dutch team and Mourik said that when Vos got back to the South Col camp, he told her he had not made it to the top, and she felt he had returned to the Col too soon after she had left him for him to have been able to get to the summit. Vos, Breashears said, was not a strong climber. Breashears would leave Camp 2 a couple of hours after Vos and still catch up with him. For him to take off his oxygen set at the South Summit and still be able to continue at a normal rate is "impossible." On the Kathmandu/Bangkok flight Vos said he thought he had gotten to the top, but could he have been somewhere else? Timmers said on the flight that, on evidence, he did not believe Vos reached the summit. Ang Rita Sherpa was convinced Vos did not.

  - The leader, Ronald Naar, and a member of a Dutch Kangchungtse team, who said in October 1985 that a journalist friend had interviewed Vos and other team members intensively and could not determine whether he had reached the summit or not; he was not convinced either way. Vos, they said, was a "very confused personality," divorced after the Everest climb, his personal life in confusion; he gives conflicting accounts of his ascent.

  - Ronald Naar came back to lead another Dutch Everest expedition and told me in May 1992 that Vos's claim to have been seen by Ganesh Gurung from the South Summit when Vos was on the Main Summit could not have been true because the Main Summit is not visible from the South Summit. Ganesh told Naar in 1986 and 1988 that he saw Vos reach the bottom of the Hillary Step and then turn back without have gone any higher.

  - An ex-president of the Royal Dutch Alpine Club, Mr. Schreve, said to me in January 1992 he personally thought Vos to have been very near the summit, above the Hillary Step perhaps, but not to the top itself. (He pointed out that all members of the 1984 expedition had signed a statement that they believed he did get to the summit).

  - Ms. Mariska Mourik was a member of the 1984 team and was with Vos in the final assault party on 8 October. She wrote me a letter on 24 Nov, 1999 about her knowledge of Vos's incorrect claims to have summited both Everest and, in 1996, Dhaulagiri I. She says:

     "I do not wish to harm him, but, on the other hand, I find the truth should be known. To me it has to do with the ethics of mountain climbing, and also, especially this past decade, with the crazy drive to go beyond oneself to find the sponsors to be able to climb these expensive mountains.... In mountain climbing not everyone is truthful. They need the summit to get sponsors for their next climb, and they need the attention from the media to get the sponsors. Or they get addicted to being famous. Or they really start believing their own imagined ascents..."

     "I know incontestably that Bart never made it to the summit of Mt. Everest because I was with him and Ganesh Gurung that day. Around 2:00 pm my oxygen canister was empty (I had only received one bottle, Bart and Ganesh both had two). I tried to go on without, but as I was filming while Bart and Ganesh floundered in navel-deep snow, I was overcome by an enormous urge to close my eyes and have a nap. I wasn't tired physically, the sleep was in my head -- lack of oxygen. It was late, and all three of us knew that it was impossible to reach the summit that day, so I decided to turn around, approximately 50 meters below the South Summit."

     "Bart told me that he wanted to try to at least reach the south summit. It took him and Ganesh about another five quarters of an hour to get there (they were there at 3:15 pm). That was the end point. Bart made all the sponsor photos (flags) on the South Summit, and also buried an aluminium box with the names of all individual Dutch $5-sponsors on microfilm in the snow. On the way back down Bart radioed to Herman Plugge in Camp 2 that he and Ganesh had not gone further than the South Summit and that he was on his way back down. This was around 4:30 pm. He gave this exact position: 200 meters below South Summit, where the trace of our first summit three days earlier ended."

     "Ganesh was back in Camp 4 on the South Col one hour after I was. He told us Bart was coming down also. When I radioed to Herman Plugge, at around 5:00 pm to tell him that Ganesh and I were back safely and that Bart was coming down, Herman already knew (through the radio contact with Bart) that the summit had not been reached. Bart arrived at Camp 4 less than two hours after me, it was still fully daylight. Bart told me he had not reached the summit. I asked him the question twice, and twice he replied 'No, I didn't make it.' Then suddenly, as if vaguely remembering something, he said 'Yes, I made it.' But he never could have, in so little time."

     "When you (E Hawley) came the Summit Hotel (where the team stayed) in Kathmandu, with the story of the Slovakians and Australians and their description of the summit, the things Bart should have seen but never saw, it all concorded with what I already knew. For me there is not a shadow of a doubt. But for most other expedition members it was hard not to believe a fellow climber, and the motor behind the whole expedition: Bart."

     "Bart started changing the hours, first in KTM, then at the press conference on our arrival in Holland, shifting them to make it all match (saying we left earlier, and that he reached camp 4 after the summit at 8 pm, which is two hours after dark), but I have all the exact times on the tapes of the radio programs I made that day. Also Bart's description of the summit kept changing. First it was a big plateau 'as big as a soccer field.' Then he reduced it to the size 'of a few carpets.' Implicitly revealed he had never been there. (I have been analyzing all this for my book)."

     "Of course the wind can erase footsteps, as you write in your fax (to Mourik), but the teddy bear that the Australians left on the summit, was still there, clearly visible, and also the oxygen bottle that was left by an Indian(?) expedition (that the Australians had seen), and the wind that had formed a round wall of snow, and this was twelve days after the Australians had been on the summit. Also, the Slovakians saw no trace of the rope that supposedly helped Bart (without oxygen and without a rucksack) up the Hillary Step, nor of the two ropes he says to have pulled loose. This is all your own information, with which you confronted Herman Plugge in Kathmandu, and once again, it all concords. Even our own Sherpas claimed that Bart never went to the summit."


  Langley, NZ Everest - 7 Nov 84

  Gurung, who climbed to South Summit with Bart Vos, says Vos turned back at bottom of Hillary Step. (Gurung angry because had been promised a very expensive sleeping bag from Dutch but did not receive it).


  David Breashears - 21 Oct 84

  Dutch would never have made Everest climb if Breashears and Neptune hadn't put in route in Icefall. They hadn't enough ladders had little motivation and really not up to such a climb. Doubtful whether Vos actually made summit. Came down delerious (Mrs Schmatz talked to him). May have thought he did when didn't. Should have seen samething on summit but didn't.

  Dutch were arrogant, condescending, difficult. No thanks for route. Marched into icefall with banner declaring "we will climb Everest alone" or same such words about being alone.


  Rodney Korich:

  Vos was 3 days at Col on oxygen. Long time to get to South Summit where he abandoned oxygen equipment and camera and everything. Proceeded to hardest part of climb. No new snow after that but no footprints above South Summit. 7 Everest summiters around BC doubt Vos ascent. Dutch were under great pressure to have success.


  David Breashears - 3 Feb 85

  Breashears was on KTM/BKK flight with members of Dutch Everest autumn 1984 expedition last Oct. Mariska said when Bart Vos got back to South Col camp from summit bid, he said to her he hadn't made it to top and he came back to Col too soon after her th have been on top. 

  Bart was not a strong climber. Breashears would leave C2 couple of hours after him and still catch up with him. For him to take off oxygen at South summit and still be able to continue at normal rate is impossible.

  On KTM/BKK flight Bart said he though he'd gotten to top but could he have been somewhere else.


  Naar and Ms. Lippmann, Makalu II exped - 25 Oct 85

  Dutch Everest autumn 1984:

  A journalist friend interviewed Bart Vos and other team members intensively and could not determine whether Vos reached summit or not. Not convinced one way or other. Vos a very confused personality. Divorced after Everest climb, personal life in confusion. Gives conflicting accouts of ascent.


  Edmond Ofner and all other members of Dutch Makalu Exped:

  Bart Vos did reach summit of Everest. The ropes on Hillary Step he said he found were also found by Norwegians next spring. When he returned to South Col he was too exhausted to report. Ofner knows him and is sure Vos would not claim success he had not had: he would not be able to live with himself if he made false claim.


  Ganesh Gurung - May 1986

  During a trek across Sherpani Col in May 1986, Ganesh Gurung told Richard Salisbury that he (Ganesh) had summited instead of Bart Vos and that Vos had stopped at the South Summit. Ganesh credited Vos with the success at the time because Vos was his client and he felt obliged to do so.

  [See also route notes for KANC-853-01 where Ganesh Gurung makes similar claim to 1985 Spanish Kangchenjunga Central expedition].


  Schreve, ex-president Royal Dutch - 3 Jan 92

  Schreve personally thinks Vos got to very near Everest summit, above Hillary Step perhaps, but not to top itself. All members of 1984 Everest expedition have signed statement that they believe he did reach summit.


  Ronald Naar, Dutch Everest Exped leader - 20 May 92

  Vos's claim to have been seen by Ganesh Gurung from South Summit when Vos was on main summit could not be true because main summit is not visable from South Summit. Ganesh told Naar in 1986 and in 1988 that he saw Vos reach bottom of Hillary Step and then turn back without having gone higher.


  In March 2000, Vos brought legal proceedings against a Dutch newspaper, Algemeen Daqlbad, for an article it had just published written by Ms. Milja de Zwart, a Dutch journalist who had recently been investigating the credibility of Vos's climbing claims, in which she concluded he had not summited Everest and Dhaulagiri I. In April, the judge hearing his case ruled against Vos: "We will not sustain the demand to rectify because the indications Bart Vos didn't reach the summits (Dhaulagiri and Everest) are this strong, that it is not improper to disbelieve Bart Vos in public.

  "We refer to the fact that Vos changed his formerly firm claims on important subjects, such as dates, and in the end doesn't give a sound explanation of his activities and whereabouts during the climbs of Everest 1984 and Dhaulagiri 1996. Doing so, he admits he gave false statements at the time.

  "Everything considered, at this stage we think it very plausible on the ground of these investigations, the Algemeen Daqlbad could fairly conclude that Bart Vos's story doesn't fit. There are many contradictions, which hardly could be explained, except by assuming vos didn't reach the summits."

  Vos had the right to appeal this decision until 20 April, but did not do so, according to a fax to me from Milja de Zwart on July 19, 2000.


  From the respected daily newspaper 'Algemeen Dagblad' on March 10 [2003]

  Mountain climber Bart Vos had accidently proved in a court case, which was meant to clean his image, that he never reached the Summit of Mount Everest (8848m). A tape brought in as proof contained a passage in which Vos explains to expedition leader Herman Plugge that he did not make it to the summit.

  The recording was made shortly after Vos abandoned his final climb, on 8th October 1984 at around the five o'clock in the afternoon.

  A few hours later Vos claimed via the walkie-talkie that he had reached as first Dutchman the top of the highest mountain in the world.

  The tape was played during a court case, filed by Bart Vos, against his former expedition companion Mariska Mourik. She wrote a book, three years ago, that Vos got stuck on the South Summit, 85 meters lower that the main summit.

  On the tape Vos clearly says that he did not reach the main summit. "We reached the South Summit of Everest and the saddle between the South Summit and the main summit. We climbed that saddle, it collapsed partly. We went back in a hurry because time was running out.

  Vos uses the word "we." He means himself plus the Sherpa Ganesh Gurung who was with him on the South Summit. Mourik who made a film of the expedition, returned on 8700 meters. Her oxygen was insufficient to climb any further.

  The tape recording of the walkie-talkie contact has been lost during many years, but was found shortly before the court case. It was found in the house of Leo Jansen, the former editor in chief of the Tros Nieuws show. This popular radio program had an exclusive contract with the Everest expedition.

  Vos's success on Everest was doubted from the very beginning. The climber always said that in fact he'd not planned to go further than the South Summit, but that he found himself light and strong enough to push on, after having put off his rucksack and oxygen bottle on the South Summit. 45 minutes later he reached the summit, according to what he told later. Because he had no camera with him, he was not able to prove his success.


  Translation of quote from "Witboek Everest", Edward Bekker, 2001
  (the lost tape recording mentioned above)

  Bart is almost unintelligible during the radio contact at half past six. Noise and hissing make his voice hardly audible. Radio contact is lost all together on several occasions. Total length of the contact is 2.08 minutes.

  [noise]

  Herman (Camp 2): "Hello Bart, this is Herman, this is Herman, Camp 2. Bart, how are you? Over."

  Bart (South Ridge, approx 8700m): "This is Bart for Camp 2. Over."

  Herman: "This is Herman, this is Herman. Bart, can you read me? Over." [noise and crackling]

  Herman: "This is Herman, this is Herman. Bart, can you read me? Over." [noise and crackling]

  Herman to Peter: "We've lost him again, damn-it."

  Bart: "This is Bart for Camp 2. Over."

  Herman: "This is Herman, this is Herman. Bart, can you read me? Over." [noise and crackling]

  Bart: "This is Bart for Camp 2. Over."

  Herman: "Bart, this is Herman, this is Herman. Over." [noise and crackling] Herman to Peter: "Must I push this?"

  Bart: "Herman, I can only hear or understand you [coughing] when I push the squelch-button. I'll tell you what we did in short, therefore. We reached the South Summmit and the saddle [inaudible] the summit and the South Summmit. [hijgen] Eh... When we were at the saddle, it partly collapsed. Eh... Then we went back quickly, because we... time eh... was out [some seconds noise, most likely because Herman pushes the send-button. Peter says: "OK."] ... and I [inaudible] distance from Camp 4. And, eh... I'll be moving on now." [noise and crackling, Peter to Herman: "You again."]

  Herman: "Bart, eh... Are you still on the eh... Where are you now? Over." [noise and cracking]

  Bart: "Herman, I'm the last one. And I'm 45 minutes removed from Camp 4. Over." [noise and cracking]

  Herman: "OK, well that's jolly good. Are... are all the other ones safely back in Camp 4? Over." [noise and cracking]

  Bart: [inaudible]

  Herman: [no noise, no crackling. Herman most likely pushes the send-button, but he doesn't speak.]

  Bart: [coughing, noise and cracking]

  [no noise or crackling, Peter to Herman: "If you do that, he hasn't got whatsitcalled"]

  Bart: "Herman, [two coughs] I can't hear you anymore, eh... I'm heading for Camp 4 now. I'll warm up the walkie-talkie once I'm there, and I'll use new batteries to contact you again. Over and out."

  Herman: "OK. I'm glad to have heard from you." [noise, Herman to Peter: "Well, that's..."]

  [end of recording]

  Finally, after many years of Dutch debating, a court-case has brought all facts to light and Bart Vos lost total credibility.

  Just a few excerpts of the final jurisdiction:


  Mount Everest 1984

  The contact via walky talky on Oct 8, 1984:
  NB: Herman is Herman Plugge, expedition leader,

  Bart Vos:
  "Hermann, I can only hear you [coughing] when I press the squelch button. Therefore I will mention short what we managed to do.

  We reached the South Summit of Everest and the saddle between the Summit and the South Summit. [deep breaths] Eh... when we stood on the saddle, it partly collapsed. Eh.. then we decided to return quickly, because time eh... was running out...[]


  Dhaulagiri 1995

  Bart Vos published the book "Higher than Dhaulagiri," in which he states he summited Dhaulagiri on 17 October 1996.

  This cannot be true, because two Russian climbers witnessed that on 17th Oct 1996 they were with Bart Vos on the North-East Ridge of Dhaulagiri. So it is impossible that Bart Vos climbed a route solo in the East Face of Dhaulagiri that same day. The two Russian climbers proved their words with a photograph with automatic time/date notification, showing Bart Vos and themselves on: 17th Oct 1996!!! The Russians further mentioned that Bart Vos never reached higher than an altitude of approximately 7200m.

  After 17 Oct 1996 Bart Vos descended to basecamp, not only according to Bart Vos' book "Higher than Dhaulagiri," but also according to another Russian climber and an Austrian climber. 

  So the justification by Bart Vos that he got the dates wrong, caused by bad weather and deterioration, and that he did not summit Dhaulagiri on 17 Oct 1996 (as published in his book) but on 20th Oct 1996, does absolutely not stroke with the facts that he was seen in Camp 1 on 18 Oct and between Camp 1 and basecamp on 19th Oct.

  As mentioned above, these are just two translated fragments of the court-case in The Netherlands, but these are the most important facts, which made the court decide:
  "Bart Vos loses the case completely and is sentenced to pay the total cost of the court-case(..)"


  Thursday 29 May 2003
  To: His Majesty's Govt
  Ministry of Culture, Tourism
  From: Frank H. Schreve

  As you know, the first Dutch ascent of Mount Everest in 1984 by Bart Vos has been contested from the beginning. Therefore at the arrival of the expedition at KTM  an ad-hoc committee was formed to verify the claim of ascent. It was composed of late Dr. Dolf Noordijk, Mrs Elizabeth Hawley and Frank Schreve as Chairman of the Royal Dutch Alpine Club. Based on interviews with all concerned this committee concluded that there was enough likeliness in the reports that Bart Vos claim was warranted. We concluded then unanimously as ad-hoc committee that Bart Vos could be considered as the first Dutchman to have climbed Mount Everest. We followed the then prevailing rule that a climber's word is trusted unless there was evidence of the contrary.

  As living members now of the ad-hoc committee of 1984 we have to inform you that we cannot maintain our original conclusion. We consider it as very unlikely that Bart Vos reached the main Summit of Mount Everest. Evidence which was at the time not available to the ad-hoc committee, made us reach this new conclusion. Specifically a sound tape which was made heard at a recent court trial in the Netherlands, was not at our disposal in 1984. This sound tape relates a discussion between Bart Vos and the expedition leader in which Vos states that he turned back just a little farther than the South Summit.

  We submit this conclusion to you as ad-hoc committee (Waarheids Committee) which had as task to verify the facts of the Dutch Everest Expedition 1984. We, therefore, suggest you to reconsider the inscription of the Everest climb of Bart Vos in 1984, as well as the honours awarded to the first Dutch Everest climb.


  Letter from Herman D. Plugge, Expedition leader
  The Committee of the Royal Dutch Climbing and Mountaineering Club

  It appears that Mr. F. H. Schreve in KTM, together with Miss Hawley, have sent a letter to the Nepalese Ministry of Tourism concerning the ascent of the Mount Everest by Bart Vos in 1984. I would like to give my reaction to this.

  In the letter emphasis is given to a tape with a walkie-talkie conversations recorded on 8th Oct 1984, the day of the ascent to the summit. This tape, together with the related films, was flown to the Netherlands by KLM for the TROS television/radio immediately the expedition returned to KTM. When shortly afterwards rumours started that Bart Vos had possibly not after all reached the summit, a commission consisting of Dr. J. A. Noordijik, Mr. F. H. Schreve and Miss Hawley carried out an investigation in KTM into these rumours. The commission interviewed all members of the expedition, a number of Tchechs who at the same time were on Mount Everest (on another route), and several Sherpas including Ganesh who had reached South Summit with Bart Vos. The tape was very probably not referred to in these talks, possible because it was hardly considered to be of importance compared to all the personal statements, apart from the fact that the tape was already in the Netherlands.

  The Noordjik-Schreve-Hawley commission came at that time to the conclusion that Bart Vos in all probability had reached the summit of the Mount Everest. That now, 19 years later, suggestions are being made that this tape had suddenly surfaced and moreover that it provides the conclusive evidence that Bart Vos didn't reach the summit, is for me that questionable. This tape was never deliberately concealed and it was not lost. We were under the impression that Mariska Mourik had it, but some years ago Leo Jansen - producer with TROS-TV - came across it while cleaning out his old files. After consulting Bart Vos, he sent it to him. After the publication of Mariska Mourik's book "One meter Everest" and at the request of several expedition members, the tape - because of the poor sound quality - was analysed by Jaap Vermeer (documentary producer and Dutch Broadcasting Corporation technician) using many filters and other technical equipment and then a transciption made. A debate started over the 2nd conversation on the tape: can the word "between" be heard or not. Jaap Vermeer did not include it in his transcription because he could not hear it, but according to some it can be heard. The question remains whether this is relevant or not. Can this one word in a recording of a walkie-talkie conversation under very extreme conditions really be the conclusive evidence that Bart Vos was or was not on the summit of Mount Everest? Moreover, after this 2nd conversation, a 3rd followed (see below). Two years ago this tape was put onto the internet, so that since then anyone interested had two whole years to listen to it.

  The 3rd walkie-talkie conversation was probably around 7:30 pm (19:30). Indeed the first words spoken when Bart Vos returned to camp 4 on the South Col were confusing for us. In camp 2 we thought that Bart Vos hadn't reached the summit. After several minutes, when Bart Vos himself came to the phone and somewhat disjointedly told his story, it became clear to us that he really had got to the top. A great achievement considering that Bart Vos had spent three days at 8000m, before making his attempt to the summit and after reaching the "South Summit," had to continue without oxygen and without Sherpa Ganesh. Then, according to Bart Vos, after fighting his way to the summit he returned to the South Summit only to find that Ganesh had left (he had sensible decended to avoid frostbite). That he had to make the further descend alone must have been a severe mental blow to Bart Vos. Inspite of exhaustion, Bart Vos realized he had to continue and must not sit down, which probably would have let to him circuming! With his last strength he just managed to reach the South Col only to collapse in front of the tents. Luckily the expedition members there heard Bart Vos and dragged him into their tent. For the first ten minutes he lay apathetically in the tent, but a substantial dose of oxygen revived him somewhat. Those interested in reading the transcript of the 3rd walkie-talkie conversation (as stated in the paragraph above, the conversation can also be listened to) should look on internet site everest.boekboek.nl, page 116 lines 5-10. The text not always easy to understand - is literally given.

  I am well award that a number of aspects are vague and unclear, and in the course of time these have been given more weight as a result of uncertainies around later claims made by Bart Vos (e.g., a solo climb of Dhaulagiri). Even so on the basis of what I went through there at the time and on the factual aspects on and around 8th Oct 1984, I do remain convinced that Bart Vos did indeed reach the summit of Mount Everest.

  Apart from that, in correspondence of the last months, it has been repeatedly suggested that I deliberately kept facts hidden and perhaps am still doing so. It is such a serious matter that I would not like to make such accusations against others, yet alone have them made against me.

accidents:
  Avalanche on Lhotse Face did hit Sherpa in it; 2 Sherpas & expedition doctor got edema and never able to go up again


expid: EVER84302
peakid: EVER
year: 1984
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Yogendra Thapa
sponsor: First Sagarmatha Preservation Expedition
countries: USA
bcdate: 1984-08-18
smtdate: 1984-10-24
termdate: 1984-10-30
termnote: Abandoned at 8400m due to death of Thapa and Ang Dorje
othersmts: Island Peak (Aug 23)
campsites: BC(18/08,5350m),C1(30/08,6100m),C2(11/09,6400m),C3(7300m),C4(8000m),xxx(24/10,8400m?)
accidents: Fatal fall by Thapa and Ang Dorje above S Col
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face (US camp not occupied)
  C4 at South Col.

  Purpose of Nepalese police team was to clear away rubbish including empty oxygen bottles at S Col and body of German 1979 summiter Hannalore Schmatz, above col. Purpose of US team was to get to Bass to summit in his quest to reach the highest point o on all seven continents. Tourism Ministry's original permit did not allow any member to go to summit; US team left when Yogendra Thapa, who had promised to arrange permission for them to go to top was not able actually to get this permission. Thapa and Ang Dorje died in apparent attempt to reach summit on 24th Oct.

  Breashears stayed at BC and went to work on Icefall while Bass, Neptune and Kirston immediately went to Island Peak (did not sleep at BC) and returned to BC 25 Aug. C1 established by Breashears, Neptune and 2 Sherpas (Breashars did'nt sleep there). Reached C2 site 4 Sept and occupied it on 11th by Bass, Neptune, Breashears and 5-6 Sherpas. Came down on 15 Sept to BC when HMG called them down. On 14th Breashears and Sherpas had carried loads and put up 1 tent to C3 site at 7300m and on 15 or 16 Sherpas carried loads to Col. Went up and down between BC and C2 during following weeks. On 12th 2 police came to C2; few Sherpas stayed at C2 for security throughout Sept. 14 Oct Bass, Neptune and Breashears and Sherpas to C2 from BC but called off mountain by police and returned to BC 15 Oct. Breashears now packing C2 gear and Sherpas clearing stuff on col and at C3.


  Breashears - 31 Jan 86

  Breashears found bodies of Ang Dorje and Yogendra at bottom of Lhotse Face and put them in crevasse. Wrapped Yogendra in tarp, Ang Dorje was in a tent; bodies had fallen down face, found in spring 1985.


  Rodney Korich, Bass's BC mgr - 6 Nov 84

  Yogendra and Ang Dorje between Col and South Summit at last radio contact 24 Oct in good conditions (no deep snow or severe winds). Next day 2 Sherpas at C4 went up looking for them and saw 2 bodies at point where route steepens above Col at about noon.

  26 Oct same 2 Sherpas plus a 3rd who had come up to join them at C4 went up to recover bodies. Reached bodies which were roped together. Appeared they had fallen. Were roped together in bringing bodies down got them onto Lhotse face and bodies entangled in ropes and are hanging there apparently. 2 Sherpas at C4 on 24th including Nawang Yonden. Ang Dorje was determined not to use oxygen but Yogendra did use it and there was plenty at C4. Yogendra had been to C2 several times, total of over a week at C2. Summited Lobuche East with policewomen several times.


  Kele, Czech Everest - 3 Nov 84

  Last Czechs left BC 21 Oct at 10:30 am. Very cold and very strong north wind from Tibet blowing snow. On 20th had talked with Thapa about weather change and strong wind now blowing but did not advise him not to go up.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 28 Oct 84

  Nepal Police Cleaning Expedition:

  Started expedition KTM under Yogendra Bahadur Thapa 8 Aug - 19 members. Reached BC 23 Aug and 31 Aug established C1, 9 Sept establish C2 22,425 ft. Engaged in cleaning: collected 500 rubbish loads by 22 Sept. 27 Sept just above BC found skeleton of unknown person who had jacket with photo of King Mahendra, bunch of keys and buttons: might be from 1970. In C1, C2 and C3 9 oxygen cylinders and 533 loads of rubbish down to BC - tin, bottles, ropes, etc.

  20 Oct - 14 oxygen cylinders from South Col brought to C2 and 2 loads of rubbish from C2 to BC.

  21 Oct - 14 oxygen to South Col from 27,500 ft from Col to C2. 20 oxygen and 30 loads of proper plastic and rags cleared in C2.

  During cleaning programme pieces of helicopter, tents, snow bars, ladders, human leg bones suspected to be Phu Dorje who had been buried at BC in 1981.

  Meanwhile Thapa and team members helped to rescue Japanese lady Akia Kanazawa from Pheriche and Namacho (were members Lobuche West expedition) on 17 Sept and also bring down to BC Czech members.

  24 Oct Thapa and Ang Dorje Sherpa left South Col at 6:00 with the purpose of bringing down body of Mrs Schmatz of 1979 Everest. After reaching 27,000 ft at 9:45 am, other group members had no radio contact.

  25 Oct at 11:45 am search group found Thapa and Ang Dorje dead, entangled in ropes.

  Thapa, born 28 Oct 1948 in Dang District, entered police service 1973 as assistant subinspector and in 1976 inspector. Climbed Tukuche 1976, Pabil 1978, Karyolung 1982 and attempted others.

  Ang Dorje, 35 years old from Namche (Thamo), 2 times Everest summiter.


  Czechs LO - 28 Oct 84

  Yogendra Thapa arrived BC 19 Oct and started up on 22 Oct. On 19th Ang Dorje was putting tent on South Col. Thapa went to C2 on 22 and Col 23rd and reached 200m above Col. Czechs before departure on 21st advised against attempt to climb because of strong wind.

  LO heard what happened in Namche on 25th.


  Neptune - 26 Oct 84

  Yogendra Thapa killed on Everest going for summit. 24 Oct 9:00 am last radio contact. Bodies located apparently between South Col and South Summit - extremely windy.

  Yogendra Thapa left KTM 19 Oct. Had never been above C2 while Americans were around and not after mid-Sept. Helicoptered to BC on 19th. Oxygen would have been used by Yogendra but not by Ang Dorje who also not above C2 (was maintaining Icefall). No real acclimatization.


  Bass press conference - 25 Oct 84

  No plans for Everest in future. Want to get our gear and get home. "Everest is kind of a knot in my belly." By the end of the expedition there was very good cooperation with Dutch.

  I was strictly member of police team and had nothing to do with their communications.

  I want you to know that "it was my first real hurt" charge in Nepal that men from Texas bought out police.

  "I would like to climb Everest but I can do it with some other expedition if Ministry of Tourism will let me and at much less expense." Concerned about long term relations with Nepal for Snowbird and its environment which are important to him and why spent so much money and time on Everest clean-up campaign. Want to teach not only mountain skills but mountain responsibilities at Snowbird center.

  I'm proud to have been a part of this" of clean-up of Everest. "I have a respectable right to come in and help" and very hurt by queue-jumping charge. 

  "We're going home - were not successful in getting a permit." Was told by my contact, Yogendra Thapa, that this would be a clean-up to the summit." Was told would have chance for summit. Yogendra called him in June it was go ahead.

  I never read regulations on mountaineering and was unaware of distinction between climbing permit and clean-up permission. "I couldn't conceive permission of there being a big problem" about his going to summit.

  I'm a sadder but wiser person about permits. "I hoped to get an opportunity [to go to top] but that was not my main concern." Press put on me a bum rap."

  Knew 3 weeks ago that no permit for Everest for Bass. Had heard before word "permit" but didn't realize distinction between cleaning and climbing permits. Had focused on supplies and logistics; queue-jumping charge not fair when Nepalese police invited Bass. If he had engineered whole clean-up operation as way to get top, then would have been fair. Put $50,000-60,000 in Nepal - some went to Police account.

  Would be glad to help Nepal climbing school, mountain museum and NMA if their 1986 Everest expedition is a clean-up campaign. Police said problems with Dutch were due to Americans and that why Bass came to KTM last week to seek own permit.

  Ministry did not give permit because not in accordance with regulations. "Real blame lies with me and my naivete."

  Regarding police Bass effort, see also:
  - NZ Everest autumn 1984 file - letters from Peter Hillary from Base Camp.
  - US Lhotse autumn 1984 who were were actually expecting to climb on Everest
    [but not to top] after contributing to police clean-up effort.


  Bass & Breashears - 22 Oct 84

  HMG yesterday turned down request for Everest permit, which Bass sought on grounds of help to police clean-up effort and fact that without his ladders, etc., making Icefall passable, others 3 expeditions could not have done their climbs.

  Breashears goes back to Khumbu by helicopter tomorrow (and Neptune may return to KTM in it) and will go to C2 to pack up their gear there. Sherpas will go to Col to bring down expensive camera equipment there which needs no packing up.


  David Breashears - 21 Oct 84

  Bass trying to get permit to climb Everest until 15 Nov now that all other expeditions are off the mountain. Seeking permit on grounds of all the help they gave other expeditions on Everest by putting in Icefall route, most difficult section of whole South Col route.


  Dutch Everest - 20 Oct 84

  Dutch were stopped from going again in Icefall 3 Sept by police (but their Sherpas were permitted to continue using Icefall route). Americans were at BC then.

  Agreement reached 8 Sept: terms as reported by Dutch LO except that police not to go above C3 except carries - not to go above C2 till 4 Oct.

  Bass, Breashears and Neptune left BC on 16 Sept for Gokyo trek and returned to BC BC 26 Sept and went above BC to C2 and their Sherpas went to C3 and C4. Breashears to C3 on 4 Oct, then radio message from KTM brought them down finally as Dutch were leaving.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 5 Oct 84

  Nepal Police:

  Ministry of Tourism has granted permit to NPMAF to clean Everest made following conditions:

  1) allowed to clean normal route after Dutch have finished.
  2) foreign members attached to this team as photographers are not allowed to go to summit but police are; if try for top will be penalized.

  SP's letter to M of T says agree Americans will not go above Col. Yogendra Thapa is in BC with his team yesterday - team 45 police.


  Harald Knutson - 23 Aug 84

  Rain snow every day. Very soft snow in icefall and post-holing to C2. Knutson, Dave and Gary put in route through Icefall with Sherpas after Island Peak when Dutch arrived in force about 5 Sept.

  Dispute broke out again. They wanted to use our Icefall route but not to have us on mountain after 15th. Police didn't want Dutch and Americans to talk together and Yogendra stayed at Lobuche BC. American not allowed to go above C1 and police not strong enough to carry full loads and therefore Dutch claimed Police expedition a farce. Police angry stood in force at beginning of Icefall to prevent Dutch going into Icefall.

  On one day Dutch made bit of a job to make our route in Icefall parallel to Police route. Then went to Pheriche for more negotiations with Yogendra about 10 Sept. Pertemba, Plugge and Yogendra made agreement as per Dutch LO.

  Still at Lobuche BC when Knutson left 7 days ago. Dutch have Bass on tape saying he is on Everest to help clean-up, but must admit if he gets to Col and it's in a sunny day, he might stroll to summit as Peter Hackett did.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 19 Sept 84

  Czech LO said today all police and their Americans have left BC and may be by now in Namche.


expid: EVER84306
peakid: EVER
year: 1984
route1: S Pillar-SE Ridge (up); SE Ridge-S Col (down)
nation: Czechoslovakia
leaders: Frantisek Kele
sponsor: Expedition Himalaya 1984 Sagarmatha
ascent1: 66th
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1984-09-06
smtdate: 1984-10-15
smttime: 1515
termdate: 1984-10-21
campsites:
  BC(06/09,5350m),C1(09/09,6050m),C2(12/09,6400m),C3(22/09,7300m),C4(02/10,8050m),C5(14/10,8300m),Smt(15/10)

routememo:
  BC at 5350m at usual site
  C1 at 6050m at top of Icefall
  C2 at 6400m in Cwm a little below usual site because other expeditions there
  C3 at 7300m on SW Face
  C4 at 8050m on right side of Pillar
  C5 at 8300m on right side of Pillar on snow and rock (1 tent).

  Decided at BC to change route: too late for trying SW Face and had only 12 bottles of oxygen (had expected to use 34 bottles left by Soviets on face but bottles not there), so time and oxygen not enough for difficult face climb. No technical problems with Pillar route. In descent used normal route and saw a tent on Col from South Summit in descent (and also on way up), but when reached Col could not find it. Descended together to about 100m below South Summit where Psotka told Demjan to go to Col and prepare tent while Psotka and Ang Rita move slowly (this account continued in attached notes of 31 Oct 84).

  Orolin had blood clot in groin while in C3 late Sept; stayed at BC rest of climb. Psotka died in fall on 15/16 Oct.

  Bass party helped get Orolin down mountain. Jozef Psotka might be alive if Nepalese-Bass camps in place on Col and Lhotse Face.


  Kele - 31 Oct 1984

  Last walkie-talkie radio contact at 4:30 am at 100m below South Summit. Demjan left other 2 at 5 pm and arrived South Col 6:00 pm in very good mental condition, found no tent and went to C3 but again could not find tent in dark (had given head lamp to Ang Rita). Arrive C2 1:00 am next day.

  Psotka and Ang Rita arrived at Col 11:00 pm midnight. Psotka so tired they dug snow cave. AR then to C3 (which he found) to prepare drink but no cooker and no sleeping bag. After 1-2 hours there felt bad and could not go back up to help Psotka so went down: 8:00 am reached C2.

  16 Oct 3 Sherpas including Ang Dorje from police C2 to C3 and wanted to go above but not strong enough go much above C3 and 2 Czechs from BC to C2. One Czech just in C5 pillar 15th night and on 17th Oct went over to normal route and traced Psotka footprints to Col but no trace of Psotka and cave (did find tent at Col). Just met 3 police Sherpas at C3 on 17th and on down. Found body in Cwm at 1:00 pm at bottom of Lhotse face. Psotka must have fallen 1200m down from traverse on face to C3.

  Then no more attempts for top. Used strongest men in 2nd summit party for search.

  Fiala finished leadership when route changed from SW Face whichhe was prepared for and became regular member. No climbing leader after that. Reached site of C5 and made fixed rope to there.


  Kele - 3 Nov 1984

  Czech expedition's summiters found on top oxygen blue US bottle sticking out of snow; small figure of bear on top also.

  Czechs saw footprints from N Face to top and from South Col to South Summit but not to main summit. No fixed ropes above Col. Vos said used 2 ropes at Hillary Step.


  Kele - 3 Nov 1984

  Czechs had good relations with all the other Everest expeditions this autumn but could not really understand why Dutch felt so strongly about not having others on their route.

  Dutch even raised question about how close Czech route would be to Dutch. Dutch had helped Czechs get permit by agreeing to let them use Icefall but their stand against police-Bass team meant that there were no proper camps on South Col route, even Czech summiters came down that way. Perhaps Psotka would be alive if police-American camps had been there at Col and on Lhotse face.

  Americans had provided important equipment for Icefall route to Czechs, Hillary team and Dutch so many ladders, for example. Americans helped Czechs get Orolin down when he was struck by blood clot - very important help.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 5 Oct 1984

  3 members and 2 Sherpas established C4 at 7780m on 2 Oct and saved day the 2 Sherpas went to C2 leaving 3 Czechs at C4 intend to establish C5 by 13 Oct.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 2 Oct 1984

  Big team of 20 men of rescuers brought injured member Michal Orolin, born 43, aircraft engineer, Velky Slavkov, suffering from thrombosis in groin and respiratory problems. Rescue operation with 5 Sherpas from Czech and police team. Brought to BC from C3: arrived BC yesterday.

accidents:
  Orolin had blood clot in groin while in C3 late Sep (stayed at BC rest of climb); Psotka died in fall on night of Oct 15-16


expid: EVER84102
peakid: EVER
year: 1984
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Darshan Kumar Khullar
sponsor: Darshan Kumar Khullar Spring 1984 Everest Expedition
ascent1: 62nd,63rd
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1984-03-16
smtdate: 1984-05-09
smttime: 1230
termdate: 1984-05-27
campsites:
  BC(16/03,5350m),C1(05/04,6095m),C2.ABC(09/04,6585m),C3(12/04,7315m),C4(29/04,7985m),C5(08/05,8475m),Smt(09,23/05)

routememo:
  BC at usual site.

  9th May was 1st attempt; three set out from C5 at 6:45 am (Phu Dorjee, Ang Dorje and Rita Gombu) and Ang Dorje and Rita Gombu reached 100m below South Summit when at about 8:00 am. Ang Dorje's feet very cold and he feared frostbite. Phu Dorjee was 100 ft above them in high winds (70-80 km). Rita Gombu decided to turn back in winds. Phu Dorjee on top at 12:30 pm (without oxygen from last 200m only). All slept on Col that night. Phu Dorjee overtook Bulgarians at about 10:15 am and Indians put up 1st Bulgarians team at Col camp and brought Metodi Savov to C2, etc, spending 2 days Indian manpower resources.

  2nd attempt was Nima Dorje (ND) Sherpa's party at col for May 9th attempt, but Bachendri Pal got to Col late and Bulgarians needed help, so Khullar called it off. 

  3rd attempt by Palzor, Lathoo, Rekha Sharma and Rattan Singh, latter fearing frostbite turned back, winds prevented on early start 16 May and avalanche of 15/16 May hit 4th summit party and required rescue. 4th party was ND Sherpa, Lobsang Tshering and Bachendri Pal. 

  5th party went to top from Col. Its final membership was determined at Col and were the 4 summiters of 23 May.

  1 Sherpa killed by avalanche in Icefall from Lho La on 26 March and cremated. Rai kitchen boy died of altitude sickness on 28 March while only one advance party man was at BC and he descending to Lobuche alone.

  Avalanche ice blocks of 15/16 May midnight buried C3 and of 3 members and 7 Sherpas, 3 Sherpas seriously injured (Bachendri was there). Rekha Sharma fell in crevasse in Icefall but 3 days later was back in C1. No frostbite at all.


  Khullar - 5 June 1984

  Three bodies seen by Everest expedition on the mountain: 

  1) At bottom of SW Face: upper torso bare skin and bone, dark brown hair perhaps shoulder length or shorter - definitely that of a woman. C2 cook Ang Tshering said he removed wrist watch. Khullar buried remains under pile of stones.

  2) On SW Face at about 22,000 ft, 200 ft above bergschrund spread-eagled body, flat on face, red jacket, black hair - rather prominently visable.

  3) On face between S Pillar and SE Ridge at about 28,000 ft (just above Indians C5). Tall figure apparently recent victim - easily seen.


  Sarin - 2 June 1984 (press conference)

  Bachendri Pal is first single woman to top of Everest
  Ang Dorje is first man to go to top with woman twice
  Rita Gombu reached 100m short of South Summit
  Phu Dorjee started without oxygen 100m below South Summit, rare to carry on 
    top when oxygen stops.
  Palzor without oxygen from top throughout descent
  No member had any experience of Nepal mountains

  Bachendri Pal:

  Took to summit start of Durga and Indian Flag. Left statue there after prayers and flag on it brought ice (now water) and stone from summit.

  Lhatoo and Ang Dorje found top of Chinese tripod. Lhatoo found pouch containing a photo of man with inscriptions. 

  Khullar:

  Near C2 body found with little skin, long dark hair, no clothing, at 21,800 ft. Another body 27,000 ft, 100m below South Summit, blue jacket.

  Was slower than others when carrying 2 oxygen bottles. Dumped one and caught up then had another problem - descended with the others.

  Had prayed for a year for Everest and will continue to do so "as Buddhist considers highest peak sacred." Was inspired by fellow Ladakhi who went to top in 1965.

  6 am made 3 attempts to go top that did not succeed. One was in C3 when avalanche struck. 1st attempt was on 5 May. Logistics prevented more successes after the two. 

  Expedition not ready to recon thru Icefall until 5-6 April after avalanche. 10 days delay by avalanche of March 26th. All of May was good weather and 23 May was best of all.

  4 women reached South Col - this a record.

  Rekha Sharma's party called down from Col, thus being prevented from going to top because support below diverted to evacuation of Sherpa with broken leg from C3 after avalanche struck, winds were preventing them to go up after 1st night at Col and should not stay longer.


  Rekha Sharma - 2 June 1984

  Khullar was just as weak and unassertive on the climb as he is in KTM. Supply problems were considerable - "it was just chaos."


  Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 16 May 1984

  C3 hit by avalanche 00:35 hours, ND Sherpa and 3 Nepalese Sherpas (no names) hit and seriously injured. Lobsang Tshering and Bachendri Pal escaped unharmed; some other Nepal Sherpas minor injury and shock.

  Summit party: Rekha, Lhatoo, Rattan Singh and Sonam Palzor called back from South Col to C2. At 11:45 am leader told them to come to C2. Had not started up from Col. Left Col at 12:00 to come down.

  RO helicopter rescue tomorrow am from BC for ND Sherpa and 2 of Nepal Sherpas who will reach BC today. 1 of these Sherpas has fractured leg moving to C1 from C2 and will not be available for helicopter.

  ND Sherpa has ribs injured and 2 injured Nepal Sherpas head injuries.


  Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 15 May 1984

  Lhatoo, Rattan Singh, Rekha and Palzor reached South Col today and tomorrow hope to go for top from Col another team reached C3.

  Entire expedition leaves BC 27 May.


  Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 10 May 1984

  Prem Chand, Bissa, Aitward Pal, Lhatoo, Dorjee and Ratan Singh to BC today.
  Phu Dorjee, Rita Gombu and Ang Dorje coming to C2 from South Col today with 4 Bulgarians.

  Yesterday at 10:45 am Phu Dorjee going up met 2 Bulgarians Savov and Valtchev coming down from summit (Bulgarians ahd gone up via W Ridge but down SE Ridge).


  Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 9 May 1984

  No contact with summit and South Col parties since this morning.
  Leader is in C2 and at C2 and BC keeping radio open.
  Weather at BC partly cloudy.
  Next contact at 4:00 pm today with KTM.


  Banskota, Tourism Ministry - 9 May 1984

  Phu Dorjee climbed alone to Everest top 12:30 today without oxygen after South Summit. At present at South Col in good physical condition. Rita Gombu and Ang Dorje reached South Summit but descended after oxygen complication. They are also in South Col camp.

  Phu Dorjee met Bulgarian summiters - where when and how many not stated.
  Weather at BC cloudy.


  Banskota, Tourism Ministry- 6 May 1984

  3 summit parties left BC yesterday - these people will attempt top via Col
  1st party: Prem Chand
             Miss Rita Gombu
             Sirdar Ang Dorje
  2nd:       Phu Dorjee
             Miss Chandra
  3rd:       N. D. Sherpa (Indian)
             Magar 
             Miss Bachendri Pal
             Lobsang Tshering


  Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 6 May 1984

  Bulgarian and Indian Everest teams jointly requested HMG permission for 2 Indian members to use W Ridge. Members to use South Col route both up and down (not traverse). Requested 3 May and granted 4 May.

  Indians to send Lhatoo Dorje and Rattan Singh via W Ridge. Bulgarians to send Kantcho Kantchev Dolaptchiev and Trifon Ivanov Djambazov via South Col.


  Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 17 April 1984

  Today 17 April 2 members and 6 Sherpas reached C2 and going up to open route to South Col. Route to Col likely to open on 22 April and to concentrate in BC 23 April for summit bid 30 April.


  Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry- 11 April 1984

  C2 established at 6460m 9 April.

  Today Sonam Palzor, Miss Aitwal, Rekha Sharma and 23 Sherpas left BC for C1. Down from C1 to BC Magan Bissa and Phu Dorjee (Bissa to KTM - leave BC 12 April).

  Major Inder Kumar, Major Jai Bahugana, Lobsang Tshering and 5 Sherpas to C2 from C1 today. Weather good today.


  Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry  - 27 March 1984

  5 Nepalese Sherpas while carrying loads BC to C1 hit by avalanche, 26 March at 08:08 am in Icefall.

  Ang Rinji Sherpa, 49, of Rimijung village, dead; body to BC (when not said).

  Kami Tshering and Lhakpa Dorje seriously injured; Sona Temba and Kami Nuru slightly injured. Helicopter requested for injured - trying for tomorrow.

  At time of avalanche Dorje Lhatoo and Dr. Minoo Mehta were in icefall with 5 Nepalese but not hurt.

accidents:
  Avalanche iceblocks of May 15-16 midnight buried C3, 3 members and 7 Sherpas seriously injured; Rekha Sharma fell across in icefall; Sherpa killed in avalanche on Lho La


expid: EVER84103
peakid: EVER
year: 1984
route1: Lho La-W Ridge
route2: Lho La-W Ridge (up); SE Ridge-S Col (down)
nation: Bulgaria
leaders: Avram Iliev Avramov
sponsor: Avram Iliev Avramov Spring 1984 Everest Expedition
ascent1: 59th
ascent2: 60th,61st
bcdate: 1984-03-18
smtdate: 1984-04-20
smttime: 1815
termdate: 1984-05-09
campsites:
  BC(18/03,5350m),C1(21/03,6050m),C2(27/03,6770m),C3(05/04,7170m),C4(11/04,7520m),C5(19/04,8120m),Smt(20/04,08-09/05)

routememo:
  BC at usual location.

  Prodanov summited Apr 20 on W Ridge route; descended W Ridge route (disappeared after overnight bivouac). Rescue attempt failed to find body. 

  2 teams of two each summited May 8 and 9 on W Ridge route; descended SE Ridge to S Col using Indian camps on descent.


  Vasilev - 27 May 1984

  9 Sherpas went above BC. At end of climb there were 22 Bulgarians left: 1 died, 1 evacuated by helicopter because of frostbite.

  Bivouac altitude: Prodanov 8600-8700m
  Iankov 8300-8400m


  Bulgarian Everest press conference - 24 May 1984

  Avramov:

  Bad weather in general. Lot of difficult moments and difficult to decide when to mount summit attempt. Grateful for help of Indians on South Col route.

  19 April with Chhowang Rinzing and Prodanov arrive C4 and early am, (about 5:45 am) on 20th left C5. After 2 hours together to 8300m according Sherpa, an empty oxygen bottle fell hit Sherpa and caused him to retreat. Prodanov went on up at 11:00 am alone. 6:15 pm he reported he already on summit with 4 empty [?] and flag of USSR expedition. Said he would bring part of flag but ropes broke (found by later summiters at summit). 8mm movie camera left by him on top and this too found by 2nd pair, but film had been taken out by Prodanov. After 33 minutes on top he descended and at 21:10 hours on radio - then he switched it off. 

  21st April next day he said had lost gloves and could not use his fingers. He was on radio until 5:30 pm when his voice heard for last time. Assume he died of exhaustion and exposure that evening/night.

  Doskov: 

  Did not see tripod did not see any bodies including Prodanov - deep snow.

  Prodanov spent last hours at place where rucksack and ice axe roped to rock to about 8600m expedition suppose. These seen by both summit pairs. He said he said he had left there behind taking only his ice hammer. Climbed only on ridge - maybe 1 meter on Chinese side but very dangerous and stayed on right side of ridge.

  Avramov:

  2nd summit group started early am and very slow in climb in deep snow. Very late on top 5:18 pm, so down same route not able to reach C5 and asked Indians if Ok in emergency to use SE Ridge. Next pair did traverse in order to help first pair. Also traversed to search for Prodanov's body as he might have descended SE Ridge in his confusion. 

  Difficult to measure cooperation but we tried to help Indians when they needed help: Bulgarians left oxygen bottles and walkie-talkies.


  Kalayanov - 24 May 1984

  Yankov to 8500m on 21 April at 9:00 pm when was ordered to descend and went to about 8300m where very steep very bad rock and spent night there in sleeping bag for Prodanov - talked to him all night to keep him awake. 22nd weather worse, C4 and C5 tents damaged. Yankov saw rucksack of Prodanov so it must be below 8500m and Yankov brought down ice axe. Yankov used oxygen on 21st and 22nd.

  Prodanov left his oxygen mask in BC and never used oxygen. Survived more than 50 hours above 8000m.

  8th May summit pair used oxygen. They were on summit 5:15 pm and bivouacked there unprepared for this biv in a crevasse beginning about 8:00 pm.

  10 May 1st pair very exhausted (saw man riding bike). Started down and Valtchev met by Phu Dorjee who reported to 2nd pair that a Bulgarian was unconscious. 2nd pair on top they thought at 9:00 am in fog. Then at 100m realized had not been on actual summit and went back up and were on top about 10:15 am. Down SE Ridge and met Phu Dorjee at South Summit, Savov just below South Summit unconscious. Saved his life with oxygen and they roped him in middle and started down. Valtchev moved alone to C4 at 4:00 pm and others at 4:30 pm including Phu Dorjee. 4 Bulgarians and 4 Indian team in C4 that night 10 May. All 4 Bulgarians had been climbing on oxygen.

  Djambazov and Dolaptchiev went to Indian C2 8 or 9 May and 11 May went up. Djambazov went to Indian C3 while Dolaptchiev met 3 Bulgarians summiters descending (Valtchev stayed all alone at C4) between C3 and C2. Djambazov on 11th late afternoon went up to meet figure descending from Col and met after dark and other reached C3. Others descending on 11th stayed in Indian C2. All continued descent.

  4th summit party of Vasilev and Dermaljiev reached Bulgarian C4 9 May. Dermaljiev snowblind in evening so unable to move. They spent 10th May in C4 and down on 11th May. Then expedition ended.

  Valtchev and Savov doubted whether to go up or down. Looked at Hornbein Couloir, found too much snow there and decided to continue up W Ridge. This was about where Russian joined Ridge from SW Face.


  Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 10 May 1984

  8 May Savov and Valtchev descended from top 17:38 hours. After 2 hours reached South Summit. Could not reach Indian C5 and spent all night at South Summit. Had 2 oxygen bottles and 1 burner - were exhausted.

  9th May Savov and Valtchev started down towards South Col early am. Fog thick making descent difficult.

  Petkov and Doskov at 3:00 started to summit from W Ridge C5 and 9:11 am they thought they were  at top, in fog and started descending. After little descent fog cleared and realized mistake and started up again and reached true top 10:08 am. Found 8mm camera left by Prodanov. Were told by BC that Savov and Valtchev were in summit area. Started descent of SE Ridge and at 10:45 am met Phu Dorjee at South Summit while Phu Dorjee going up. Meanwhile Savov and Valtchev trying to find way to South Col, moving very slowly because exhaustion and heavy fog. Valtchev lost Savov and saw 2 persons 100m below him (probably Rita Gombu and Ang Dorje) and tried to go to them. Valtchev descending with great difficulty.

  At 10:55 Doskov and Petkov found Savov 30m below South Summit very exhausted. With lot of oxygen succeeded get Savov down slowly in fog. At 13:50 hours reached C5 of Indian expedition and melted snow for liquid. Phu Dorjee came to C5 from summit and met 3 Bulgarians - he also was exhausted. These 4 started down at 15:40 hours reached C4 of Col. Half hour earlier Valchev arrived C4.

  4 Bulgarians in good condition, given food drink and oxygen by Indians.
  2 more Bulgarians in C4 today. Weather cloudy and snowfall in BC.


  Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 9 May 1984

  2 members Valtchev and Savov reached top at 17:15 hurs yesterday. At top heavy snow and fog. At 17:38 hours started descend. 2 hours later reached 8780m SE Ridge and spent night just below South Summit.

  Today at 10:08 hours other 2 members Petkov an Doskov reached top and are helping earlier 2, Savov and Vachev at 8700m. Whether helping to descend or not, not known. Use of oxygen by these four men not known nor whether seen Prodanov.

  2 more Bulgarians started from BC yesterday to climb South Col route - Kontcho Dolapchiev and Trifon Djambazov.


  Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism - 8 May 1984

  Yesterday Ivan Valtchev, 37, and Metodi Savov, 37, reached C5 and spent last night there. This morning they left C5 at 3:20 am towards top. 9:10 am reported they were just a little bit above 8500m. Started with oxygen. 

  No further details. No further contact or no clear contact - no communication from them.


  Banskota, Tourism - 6 May 1984

  Started up from BC in 5 groups for last 2 days. 2 reached C5 yesterday and 1 return to C5 yesterday. Today 2 members and 3 Sherpas from C4 to C5 and 2 members will stay at C5.


  Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 22 April 1984

  Yesterday 3 members and Chhowang Rinzi went to C5 from C4. 1 member Yankov reached 300m above C5 and because of nightfall spent night there. Today 8:45 am return to C5 lost contact with Prodanov was 19:45 yesterday when his voice very difficult to understand at BC but BC man says it is very clear he lost one glove and therefore difficult to push walkie-talkie radio. Prodanov said "I see nobody to rescue me." After that no further contact till 9:00 am today.

  Today the 3 Bulgarians and Rinzi return to C4 because of bad weather and unable to move up. 

  BC snow falling this am, cloudy above 6000m, C4 and C5 high wind.


  Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 21 April 1984

  Lost contact with Prodanov was last night 9:10 pm (revised time). He stopped going down and searching for place for night biv. 

  Today 10:24 am BC members heard very weak signal from Prodanov's radio - was pushing button but not speaking to BC. Estimated he was between 8300m-8500m. BC says he may be in critical condition without oxygen and very cold.

  BC started urgent operation to save him. Yankov and Djambazov started to climb quickly from C4 to C5 this morning after weak signal carrying oxygen.

  Chhowang down to C4 today and up to C5 with oxygen. Valtchev going up with oxygen C3 to C4.

  Petkov and 2 others Bulgarians reached C2 and going to C3 today as part of this operation from BC to C1 members with medical aid. Asked whether helicopter can go to C1 6050m until 2:30 pm Prodanov still pushing button.


  Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 21 April 1984

  Last night at 10:21 last contact made with Prodanov from BC. At that time he was on 8500m. He said he would biv somewhere in that area because of darkness. Until now 9:00 am no contact. Today 3 Bulgarian members going from C4 to C5 and 4 Bulgarians from C3 to C4 - why not said. Next contact 2:00 pm.


  Press Release

  The Bulgarian Everest 1984 Expedition, consisting of 24 members and led by Avram Avramov (46) completed the second ascent of the West Ridge. The Bulgarians established BC in mid March and quickly placed 5 camps, at 6050m, 6770m, 7170m and 8120m, the last on Aprl 19. On April 20th the strong climber Christo left C5 at 5:45 am for the summit accompanied by Rinzi Sherpa. He turned back after he had been "hit by a falling oxygen bottle." Prodanov decided to continue alone without bottled oxygen. It was a hazardous decision - from C5 he had to climb 750m of steep ridge. After a struggle up the ridge, at 6:10 pm, Prodanov reached the top. He was the first man to climb the West Ridge alone and without oxygen and the first person to scale this summit in April as spring ascents have been made in May. Descending Prodanov hit trouble between 8500m and 8300m. Exhausted and deteriorating he spent the night without gear, food, drink and oxygen and lost his gloves. The last BC contact with Prodanov was next day at 6-7:45 pm. "I see nobody to rescue me," he said in his last feeble radio message.

  High winds and bad weather prevented efficient rescue efforts. Solo Ludmil Yankov (26) reached 8400m but could not find Prodanov, who may have died on April 21 or 22.

  Despite the mishap, the team tried to put more men on the top. On May 1st the second attack began from BC. On May 7th Camp 5 was equipped with food and 11 bottles of oxygen. Next day Metodi Savov (37) and Ivan Valtchev (37) started their summit bid. Deep dry snow slowed the ascent. At 17.15 (5.15 pm) they reached the top. The descent was made via the less difficult SE Ridge. Just below the 8765m South Summit they were exhausted and spent the night without a tent or oxygen, although they had used oxygen, whilst ascending. During the night Savov's toes were frostbitten. Next morning the two climbers became separated in thich fog on the descent.

  Meanwhile at 10:10 am the top was reached by two Sofia students - Nikolai Petkov and Kiril Doskov. They also descended the southeast route. They caught up with Savov who was in an exhausted condition 30m below the South Summit and helped him down using oxygen from the Indian expedition. At 13:50 pm they reached the Indian Camp 5 where Valtchev was waiting. They were helped by the Indians at the South Col then continued the descent together, reaching BC in 2 and 1/2 days. On May 12, Savov was airlifted from BC to KTM by helicopter, and on May 13 the party left the region.

  The two pairs made the first traverse of the full West Ridge-SE Ridge and the second traverse. Savov and Valtchev survived an open bivouac at some 8600-8700m.

  Christo Ivanov Prodanov, meritious sports champion and deputy leader of the Bulgarian Everest Expedition, died on April 21st 1984 after making the first ascent of Everest in April and the West Ridge Ridge without oxygen.

  He was born in Karlovo on Feb 24th and graduated in metallurgy. In 24 years he made major ascents in the Caucasus, Alps and Dolomites, including the Petit Dru by the Bonatti Pillar, the Walker Spur, Freney Buttress (1969) and Matterhorn North Face in extremely severe conditions and the Petit Dru by the Guides Rotue (1977).

accidents:
  Prodanov death at 8600m; Yankov frostbitten fingers; 1 member hit by falling empty oxygen bottle in Apr; Savov frostbitten toes


expid: EVER83401
peakid: EVER
year: 1983
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kazuyuki Takahashi
sponsor: Kazuyuki Takahashi Winter 1983 Everest Expedition
ascent1: 58th
bcdate: 1983-11-20
smtdate: 1983-12-16
smttime: 0800
othersmts: Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-833-01)
campsites: BC(20/11,5300m),C1(01/12,6100m),C2(03/12,6400m),C3(08/12,7400m),C4(13/12,8000m),Smt(16/12)
agency: Express
routememo:
  All 4 summiters started 2:30 am from C4 with new type battery in headlamps giving bright lights. Started so early to be able return to C4 same day. Strong wind at col and at summit from S Summit. Ozaki saw tripod when snow near 2 oxygen bottles probably Russian.

  Above Col on face saw new body at about 8200m. Not Japanese by colour of clothing which was yellow quarter blue trousers and yellow/beige - huge body, think its a man but lying flat on stomach. Did not see Mrs Schmatz.

  In C2 and C3 tents and some equipment already there from Lhotse ascent in Oct 1983 and few fixed ropes between C2-C3 there too. 14 Dec 1 member and 2 Sherpas tried to put in 300m fixed ropes on SE Ridge but too strong wind changed plan to make C5. 15 Dec was to be summit day for successful team, but too much wind and spent day in C4 170 knots/hr.

  Yamada left on top small cardboard from British Catholic priest via British Embassy Tokyo with message about world peace. From summit could be seen by N Face team. 


  Takahashi - 23 Dec 83

  "Can't help" not being able to meet wife at summit [Michiko Takahashi from north side team]. Idea was difficult. Takahashi to C4 only. Exped doctor did not permit him to go higher because of heart - oldest Japanese climber to reach height of Lhotse summit. Ok if he does 2 or 3 high summits in same season, but not over longer period.


expid: EVER83303
peakid: EVER
year: 1983
route1: Lho La-W Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: James Sano
sponsor: James Sano Autumn 1983 Everest Expedition
countries: UK
bcdate: 1983-08-22
smtdate: 1983-10-14
termnote: Abandoned at 8535m due to high winds
agency: Mountain Travel
campsites:
  BC(22/08,5365),C1(27/08,6035m,C2(06/09,6800m),C3(10/09,4160m),C4(16/09,7530m),C5(02/10,8200m),xxx(14/10,8535m)

routememo:
  BC at usual site.

  Highest point reached was very nearly top of yellow band. Had climbed hard bit of band and it had started to ease of in clear weather, but wind too strong on 14 Oct (blew ropes upwards in Couloir).

  By 14 Oct only Macquaries and Bibler not affected by exhaustion or frostbite and wind continued strong for 4-5 days by which time all down to Lho La and no "cough" to go back up.

  W Ridge is tough and most technical part of the route is above 27,000 ft besides getting onto Lho La. "This is a hard way to try to climb Everest."


  Shrestha, Tourism - 21 Oct 1983

  American Everest from LO:

  16 Oct because high winds all expedition activity abandoned.
  23 Oct schedule to leave BC for KTM. All are well.
  14 Oct 3 people left C5 5:30 am but high wind could go only (200-300 ft)
     above C5 and return to C5.
  15 Oct expedition studied with condition.
  16 Oct decided to abandon.

  Moss arrived 18 Oct

  28,000 ft by Whitehouse on 14 Oct (new American women's altitude record)
  4th attempt abandoned when teams resources helping 3 members to safety.


  Report from Sano dated 1 Sept 1983 to Ministry of Tourism

  Weather conditions have been generally good. Generally clear mornings and cloudy afternoons, lowest temperatures -5 degrees C, highest +20 degrees, wind gusts of 5 knots. Health of all members excellent.


expid: EVER83305
peakid: EVER
year: 1983
route1: S Pillar-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Haruichi Kawamura
sponsor: Sangaku Doshikai Autumn 1983 Everest Expedition
ascent1: 55th
bcdate: 1983-09-05
smtdate: 1983-10-08
smttime: 1630
campsites: BC(05/09,5300m),C1(13/09,6200m),C2(15/09,6400m),C3(24/09,7300m),C4(30/09,7950m),Smt(08/10)
routememo:
  BC at usual site.

  3 Americans from E Face first met at 8500m as both parties going up. Americans on oxygen went faster and again met bottom of Hillary Step as they were coming down from 2:00 pm summit (2 hours) very slowly (no oxygen but fixing rope at Step). Bivouacked at 8400m at 7:00 pm with small biv tent and fuel or stove and pan for heating snow.

  9 Oct Konishi and Ang Nima left C4 for top, but reached S Summit at 4:00 pm very late and very tired. Bivouacked at 8500m at 6:00 pm also with biv tent, etc left by 1st summit party. Tripod and Mrs Schmatz's body not seen as expected, but not with bad ice and no good snow. Would take very long time to scale SW Face and could not start 20 Aug as planned because of delays so changed with only 1 month climbing time really available to S Pillar route (left side of Poles route) to avoid avalanche. Still C3 very dangerous place from avalanche.

  Pasang Temba Sherpa of summit party turned back alone. Slipped at very easy snow field but very tired. Americans saw him fall down Nepalese side but body not found.


  Takahashi & Yamada - 24 Oct 1983
  (Lhotse expedition leader & climbing leader)

  Japanese Everest Sangaku Doshikai team actually climbed same route as American autumn 1981 expedition to left of Geneva Spur, right of South Pillar. Not on Polish Pillar route to S Summit, but joined SE Ridge just above Col as did Americans in 1981 autumn. Climbed entirely on snow, no pillar rock.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 14 Oct 1983
   
  LO report: sent to Namche by 2nd group members.

  Returned regarding missing Sherpa: at about 7950m one of his bags found and traces of his slippage seen by a Sherpa of 2nd group, so Pasang Pemba is declared dead by falling in the snow. All others are well and team scheduled reach KTM by 23 Oct.


  Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism  Ministry - 11 Oct 1983

  Leader and 1 member of Sangaku Doshikai expedition [summited].

  1) Haruichi Kawamura, born 1947 Dec
  2) Shomi Suzuki, born 1953, mountain advisor, Tokyo
     reached top 8 Oct at 16300 hours without oxygen (stayed 10 minutes on top)

  Had left C4 with Pasang Pemba, 27, but he could not go up all the way and turned back and is missing.

  Further attempt by other members "going on." Details of missing Sherpa and next attempt will be sent later.


expid: EVER83306
peakid: EVER
year: 1983
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiroshi Yoshino
sponsor: Yeti Dojin Autumn 1983 Everest Expedition
ascent1: 56th
bcdate: 1983-09-10
smtdate: 1983-10-08
smttime: 1630
campsites: BC(10/09,5300m),C1(19/09,6100m),C2(23/09,6400m),C3(26/09,7500m),C4(07/10,7980m),Smt(08/10)
accidents: Two fatalities in descent from summit
routememo:
  BC at usual site.

  Route can be steep and requires much care in snow.

  Yoshino seen 9 Oct and his body found - fell. Kamuro not seen after 8 Oct and body not found.


  Takahashi & Yamada - 24 Oct 83
  Japanese Lhotse Expedition

  Yeti Dojin Everest expedition member Sawagami used oxygen in C2 on his descent because he was in "no good condition." Sure about Sawagami because they helped him and he used Lhotse expedition oxygen.

  Endo biv site very dangerous because very cold and very windy. Coming down next day on his legs but on laboriously. Ang Tshering went up met at 8300m and helped him down.

  Yashima and Kamura last year biv at 8350m on K2 and very lucky, no wind and in good condition, but lost same fingertips from frostbite. On return to C2 by Endo and may be Sawagami used oxygen on Everest.


  Endo - 21 Oct 83

  C4 at South Col. Highest 3:00 am on 8 Oct all 4 climbing members left C4 met 2 members and 1 Sherpa of Sangaku Doshikai (SD) team at 8100m at 4:00 am: Endo started first from 8100m followed by SD team Kawamura and Suzuki, Pasang Temba Sherpa, next Kamuro, Yoshino and Sawagami. All 7, next 3 Americans at 8500m and Americans went on up. Sawagami stopped going up when at 8800m because was exhausted and reached C4 same day.

  Pasang Temba also reached 8600m and then down because exhausted Americans saw him falling at 8600m and were last to see him alive. Body not found but seen to be falling down SW Face.

  Endo at S Summit at 2:00 pm waiting for Yoshino and Kamuro and at that time 2 members went ahead to summit. Yoshino and Kamuro joined him at 2:30 pm and all 3 continued up and all 3 met Americans at Hillary Step. After SD team reached summit, 10 minutes later Endo on top at 4:30 pm and Yoshino and Kamuro 4:50 pm on top. Endo waited at top and then little below while they went to top.

  SD two went down first after Endo: they had met on top. Then Yoshino and Kamuro of Yeti Dogin descended. Endo met Yoshino and Kamuro about 50m below summit and 3 down. At South Summit because dark when Endo arrived at about 6:00 pm alone and decided to biv below South Summit and back towards main summit he had seen Yoshino and Kamuro at Hillary Step when almost dark. Expected Yoshino and Kamuro to join him - bivouacked at 6:30 pm. Thinks Yoshino and Kamuro bivouacked just below Hillary Step Endo slept for 8 hours, woke up at 6:00 hours.

  9 Oct - 6:00 am Endo began decent from biv site. Saw Yoshino at 6:10 am fastening boots just below Hillary Step and waited near S Summit for Yoshino for 1 hour and then again started down too exhausted to go up in search. Reached C4 that day at noon.

  10 Oct Endo at 10:00 am left C4 and reached C2. Thought he would die.
   
  11 Oct found Yoshino body by sirdar at 6300m. Must have fallen 2000m down SW Face. Body spotted by crows being overhead. Body identified by SD and brought to C2 (identified by having toes) where put into crevasse. Kamuro's body not found, might be at bottom of SW Face.

  SD summiters biv at 8300m on 8 Oct - one Ok, 1 frostbite

  9 Oct Konishi and 1 Sherpa tried for summit but no success.
  Endo, Dr and Sawagami arrived KTM today.

  SD all arrive today.
  Takahashi and Yamada also came today from Lhotse.

  Mrs Schmatz and Kato and Kobayashi not seen.
  Endo Ok, no frostbite.


expid: EVER82401
peakid: EVER
year: 1982
route1: SW Face (to 6500m)
route2: W Ridge from S (not attempted)
route3: N Col-NE Ridge from Lho La (to 7600m) (illegal)
nation: France
leaders: Michel Metzger
sponsor: Michel Metzger Winter Everest 1982
countries: Belgium, Italy, Switzerland
bcdate: 1982-11-21
smtdate: 1982-12-20
termdate: 1982-12-31
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to winds
campsites: BC(21/11,5350m),C1(24/11,6150m),xxx(6500m); 2ndC1(08/12,6000m),C2(14/12,7000m),xxx(20/12,7600m)
accidents: Bourgeois altitude sickness and near-fatal crevasse fatal
routememo:
  The expedition made no attempt to climb the West Ridge. After giving up an attempt to climb the SW Face, they crossed into Tibet and tried the North Col-North Ridge route. The highest point reached on the unauthorized northern route.

  27th Nov Batard and Audoubert to site of C2 at 6500m in Cwm, saw SW Face all black and reported to BC face had no snow and icefall in very dangerous condition. Expedition asked for permit for W Ridge which they got. 

  Meanwhile established new C1 at Lho La. Had no intention to attempt W Ridge because strong winds in Dec; intended to go to N Col. Sherpas refused W Ridge climb (too cold for so-so Sherpas) and were told to carry loads to pully and sleep at BC, so members were alone at Lho La and beyond. Highest point reached on N Ridge, 7600m, half an hour beyond where snow gave way to mixed snow and rock in afternoon 20 Dec. 22nd Batard and Audoubert reached 7520m and 23rd to same place. All to BC 24th for Xmas. 27th from Lho La to rescue climb by 4 members but same day Bourgeois became sick from altitude sickness, disappeared between turning back and reaching C1. After 3 days search, 4 returned to C2 but wind too strong and cleared camp. 4 members without sleeping time again.


  Metzger - 1 Oct 88

  Did not attempt West Ridge. Went from Lho La and from this only 5 hours to North Col (with good acclimatization). Had 1 tent and 1 cave at North Col and stayed there 1 week. Reached 7600m on N Ridge and then saw a tent ahead but very windy on ridge. Metzger slept 4-5 nights at North Col.

  7600m reached by Metzger 
  7500m reached Batard and Audoubert both times stopped by wind.


  Metzger - 14 Jan 83

  For Bourgeois to descend to C1 way was not difficult and when Jean said preferred return to C1 at 6000m because had headache - were 4: Ghilini, De Blanchard, Metzger and Bourgeois going to C2 at 7000m. Metzger agreed he should go alone for 1 hours descent. Bourgeois at 10:00 am [on Dec 27] left the other 3 at about 6200-6300m. Metzger watched him descend for 1/2 hour well and so not worried. Reached C2 about 12:30 and had lunch. At 2:00 pm called C1 and friend Pierre Steiner who had come up from BC said Bourgeois not there at C1. So 3 descended immediately to point last seen. Steiner camp up from C1 to place where can see his crampons tracks on hard snow and reached all crevasses there and looked down the side.

  That night stayed at C1. No search in moonlight because impossible. Again searched on 31 Dec same area despite bad wind making impossible stand and same next day. 2 Jan went to C2 and brought down all gear to C1.

  BC about 5450m. All down finally 4 Jan evening. "We thought it was possible to go to Tibet but without food and sleeping bag, we thought he was dead."

  Kato - when got down from summit was worst for wind and at C1 was -33 degrees C in evening. I think he was higher and when you slip from this place its not the same thing." I think they are finished.

  Regarding our expedition at first thought to continue climb but then with Bourgeois gone and wind blowing open blanket of C1 icehole every one thought Bourgeois coming back and could not sleep and gave up.

  7700m highest point, before Xmas about 21 Dec.


  Bourgeois - 14 Jan 83

  Said goodbye knowing had cerebral edema because wanted his friends to continue to summit. Metzger had offered to go with him. Headache got worse and worse, had nausea lost balance and fell down. On Nepal side would have been dead but on Tibetan side fell less than 100m distance. Not hurt by fall but shocked (maybe lost consciousness briefly) and having edema. Only 2 solutions: 1) go up to C1 where was oxygen but too exhausted to go up: 2) go lower and lower in direction of Rongbuk glacier, which did, hoping to find monastery where could rest and get food. Spent night amongst rocks on glacier. Next afternoon reached ruined monastery. Now not possible to go back though health improved but balance not good. Left monastery and walked 2nd day and 2nd night. In am of 1 Jan reached village at dawn. There Tibetans gave tea and Tsampa. "It was a good New Year for this morning." Continued down same day alone and at night slept in little house in little village where Tibetans gave food (tsampa and food). Morning of 5th day 3rd Jan, reached first town Shigar on East-West road and became chief guest of ag. who gave bed and food. In town they telephoned to Shigatse and next day 4 Jan sent in Japanese to Shigatse where met Chinese officials and shared room with 2 Chinese and was free to walk around town and Tibetan who spoke perfect English as interpreter. PSB phoned Lhasa and Peking.


expid: EVER82402
peakid: EVER
year: 1982
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yasuo Kato
sponsor: Yasuo Kato Winter Everest 1982
ascent1: 51st
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1982-12-03
smtdate: 1982-12-27
smttime: 1555
termdate: 1983-01-01
campsites: BC(03/12,5350m),C1(08/12,6000m),C2(13/12,6650m),C3(18/12,7400m),C4(22/12,7900m),Smt(27/12)
routememo:
  Sasaki - 7 Jan 83

  BC 3 Dec  5350m
  C1 10 Dec 6000m
  C2 13 Dec 6650m
  C3 18 Dec 7400m
  C4 22 Dec 7900m

  1st summit attack 23 Dec. Kato alone from C4 to 8100m. 2nd attack Kato and Kobayashi left C4 together on 27 Dec. Kato on summit 3:55 pm. Kobayashi reached 8800m - biv near south summit. Only 4 Sherpas above BC including sirdar Pemba Norbu.

  No other accident or frostbite. Kobayashi frostbite not a problem.

  They could not have moved against wind and they bivouacked before they became exhausted since oxygen finished and little food (oxygen finished by 9:00 pm radio call). Would have been Ok in am of 28 Dec if no big wind blew them away. Wind blew C2 tent 10m down with Sasaki in it.

  Oxygen used from C3 upwards except Kobayashi carried supplies to C4 without oxygen; used oxygen for sleeping in C4.

  Icefall avalanche that scared French Everest expedition into changing route was not so big; just little serac collapse.

  Kobayashi said Everest normal route easiest climb of 8000er he'd experienced; just wind and cold were obstacles.


  Sasaki - 6 Jan 83

  Kato and Kobayashi not seen after going on summit attack 27 Dec. 27/28 Dec all night snow falling from 10:00 pm to early morning and lost contact 9:00 pm. Only after that Nawang Yonden who went South Col noon on 28 Dec and saw footprints/track above. He did not go above Col: no oxygen, strong wind and very cold and all members say came down. Came down to C3 (C4 below Geneva Spur 7900m too windy) arrive C3 3:30 pm after 2 hours on Col looking for same thing but he could not find "I think night time finished." very strong wind blowing and I sleeping and my tent in C2 blown out with Sasaki in it.
   
  23 Dec 1st attack plan: Kato first try alone, 2nd time Kobayashi also because Kato feel same complaint alone, cannot carry so much baggage and expected biv. Took stove and biv tent and French regulator but not found full oxygen bottles. Kobayashi weaker than Kato so unable go top but reached above South Summit maybe 8800m. Kobayashi had some frostbite but not specified how much and where no further rescue: not enough oxygen, went so fast not fully acclimatized including most Sherpas.

  Kato could not stand on top more than few minutes because very strong wind - tripod see? no report.

  I very sad about Kato and Kobayashi, when Sasaki went with twice Dhaulagiri I 1978 and Annapurna I 1982 if not strong wind, they back to C4 easy. No snow problem on mountain because so much snow blown away by wind. I think wind from Tibet blow Kato and Kobayashi down SW Face. No search for bodies in later season.

  Today working near Lobuche at 4800-4900m stone pile with stone plaque by Pangboche stone mason, same place as other memorials to Everest climbers who died. 

  Sasaki reached 7500m during expedition.


  Sharma, Tourism - 1 Jan 83

  2 members including Sasaki, 1 photographer and 1 journalist, LO and same Sherpas left BC this am. 3 Japanese and 7 Sherpas still at BC area and to arrive KTM 12 Jan.

  Kato and Kobayashi disappeared and no more contact with expedition.


  Sharma, Tourism - 31 Dec 82

  Sasaki and 2 others Japanese arrive KTM 5 Jan. All members and Sherpas now in BC. All return to BC yesterday evening except Kato and Kobayashi.

  Today 2 members and 3 Sherpas to C1 to clean C1 and return to BC. C2 and C3 already cleared but left everything intact in C4: oxygen, food, sleeping bags. Today last day on mountain. Tomorrow 3 Japanese and 7 Sherpas leave BC to arrive KTM 5 Jan.

  No aerial search requested by expedition. No report of Kato and Kobayashi sighted or heard from since Monday 9 pm, as of 11:00 am today's radio by LO at BC.


  Sharma, Tourism - 30 Dec 82

  Kato and Kobayashi: At 10:00 am 27 Dec Kato contacted C2 and said reached 8400m and Kobayashi is trailing behind him. At 11:00 am Kato told C2 he was at 8500m. At 1:50 pm he told C2 he was at South Summit 8763m. At 7:50 pm Kato told C2 and C3 Kobayashi could not reach summit but Kato had done so and had returned.

  "I met Kobayashi here. I reached the summit and came back to this point. Kobayashi's hands and feet are frostbitten. My health conditions is excellent."

  At 11:00 am said he had seen a body. At 7:50 pm Sasaki's at C2 told Kato he Sasaki will send Nawang Yonden Sherpa to receive them on 28th morning. Kato replied "our health condition is good. We are comfortable and you should not send him." At 9:00 am Kato told C2: "It is very cold now here. I will not contact again tonight, only tomorrow morning, good night." Since then no contact has been made.

  28th Dec Nawang Yonden sent to South Col to see whether Kato and Kobayashi coming down. He could see footsteps at Col but did not see Kato and Kobayashi. At Col between 9:00 and 10:00 am and went to C4 and slept there that night from 28th 10:00 am till 29th evening was hurricane - like wind above C2.

  Today 30 Dec LO and remaining members feel Kato and Kobayashi might have been frozen to death because of shortage of oxygen during Monday night. They have decided not to search further. All members and Sherpas coming to BC today. Nawang Yonden in C3.

  Jan 1 start evacuating BC 
  2 members will stay at BC
  3-4 days longer
  Sasaki told us (Kato and Kobayashi) they are no more.

  Ministry of Tourism expressed deep sorrow at his diappearance of noted Asian climber and foremost climber of the world Kato, who was very cooperative to this ministry and NMA, came to Nepal, also sorry about Kobayashi.


  Okuwara - 29 Dec 82

  Still no contact with Kato. C4 has highest food and oxygen. When Kato left C2 had oxygen and French oxygen regulater and knew plenty of oxygen bottles above South Col.

  At BC today snowing heavily, -15 degrees and wind not strong. Probably cannot see summit. BC no comment regarding death.


  Sharma, Tourism

  LO: Today's weather bad, no one has gone up today for search. This evening members consulting via walkie-talkie and if weather good tomorrow will go up.

  Kato took gas stove from C2, also oxygen. 


  Sharma

  "I think there is still chance Kato will come down being experience climber and having very good stamina and no shortage of oxygen above South Col. I think he is trying to rescue Kobayashi so that is why he has not come to C4. Rescuing Kobayashi because he had frostbite and his condition worse. I believe today he Kato is still alive but not sure about Kobayashi.

  No information regarding biv equipment.
  Next radio contact is 11:00 am tomorrow


  Sharma, Tourism - 28 Dec 82

  Yesterday Kato reached summit at 3:55 pm. He came to biv site near South Summit at 7:00 pm and met there Kobayashi there (Kobayashi's highest point) and because dark and cold bived there. Last nigth very windy and snowfall on Everest.
   
  Message relayed at 7:30 pm to C2 and to BC 8:30 pm. No further contact from Kato.

  C2 tent blown away this morninng by more wind but no one hurt - Yoshima Sajaki was in tent but not hurt.

  No further details available. Next KTM-BC radio at 1:00 pm.


  Sharma, Tourism - 5 Dec 82

  BC established 3 Dec 5400m. This morning Kato and 2 other members left BC to go into Icefall.


  Kato - 23 Nov 82

  Sasaki maybe today to Lukla and Kato tomorrow. 
  BC established about 28-29 Nov.

  Maybe 4 camps above BC. If bad weather maybe C3 at 7500m (bad weather = wind), otherwise C4 at 8100m is above Col to avoid its winds.

  Route up Lhotse face = normal route. "From South Col to summit not so difficult - only walking, but in winter very difficult. If French want normal route my party success first. My party finish then okay hope to climb Everest in Dec this winter.

  60% chance of success by this expedition. "First plan was to climb above. My powers very strong powers and alone is best but intentions very difficult so if weather good and my condition is good maybe I go alone from final camp" or maybe with others. C3 to top very long way and maybe Kato alone carry 3 oxygen bottles @7.5 Kg.

  Uemura was very strong but his team is not strong and Uemuras not climbing alone. This season no success where Kato can succeed.

  Nakamura K2 summiter and in Kato's party to 8600m on Everest 1980, very strong. Kobayashi also very strong: Dhaulagiri summiter and also 1980 Everest North Face attack party hit by avalanche (went to 8500m when avalanche hit).

  Sasaki and Seikizaki on K2 on north side as support members, not so strong as Kato, Nakamura and Kobayashi, but strong.

  Summit on Xmas = hope.

  Plans final push to summit to start at night: if from C3 at 10:00 pm, midnight, if from C4 also at night. No biv: 20-25 hours C3 to top to C3 moving continually and on oxygen. Impossible to sleep in last camp anyway. At night wind not so strong. Have special equipment and clothing for winter including warm helmets that came down low over ears.

  Kato now at Yellow Pagoda; on return to KTM at Express House.


expid: EVER84301
peakid: EVER
year: 1984
route1: N Face (Great Couloir)
nation: Australia
leaders: Geoffrey Bartram
ascent1: 64th
countries: UK, USA
bcdate: 1984-08-02
smtdate: 1984-10-03
smttime: 2015
termdate: 1984-10-06
othersmts: Climbed Changtse illegally (by two members)?
campsites: BC(02/08,5200m),C1(21/08,5800m),C2(14/09,6900m),C3(01/10,7500m),C4(02/10,8150m),Smt(03/10)
routememo:
  Route Australians took was good one for oxygen-less team since was direct route up Great Couloir.

  Japanese in 1980 went up Hornbein Couloir.

  Australian's last camp C4 was at about same place at Messner's last campsite at c8200m.

  Saw no oxygen bottle or anything else on summit which reached just at dust; footprints could have been from last May, eroded by wind which had blown away summer monsoons snow.

  Was very helpful having the 2 Nepalese, Lobsang Tenzing and Narayan Shrestha, along. They looked after C1 which was climbing base, knew the foods members liked, and Tenzing was fluent in Tibetan and could get on well with yak drivers (Chinese LO knew little Tibetan and was arrogant towards yak drivers).

  Before climb visited Lho La and could see 3 camps at top of Khumbu icefall.

accidents:
  Avalanche destroyed first attempt at C2 at 6200m; Bartram slight cerebral edema; Henderson badly frostbitten hands


expid: EVER88101
peakid: EVER
year: 1988
route1: N Col-NE Ridge (up), SE Ridge-S Col (down)
route2: N Col-NE Ridge
route3: S Col-SE Ridge (up), NE Ridge-N Col (down)
route4: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Shi Zhang-Chun, Toshio Imanishi, Kumar Khadga Bikram Shah
sponsor: China-Japan-Nepal Friendship Expedition to Qomolangma/Sagarmatha
ascent1: 76th
ascent2: 76th
ascent3: 77th
ascent4: 78th
countries: Japan, Nepal
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1988-03-06
smtdate: 1988-05-05
smttime: 0925
termdate: 1988-05-18
campsites: See Route Details
accidents: No accidents, frostbite or serious illness except doctor who died
routememo:
  South Side Camp Details:
    BC at closest possible site to Icefall
    C1 at top of Icefall
    C2 at bottom of Lhotse Face in Cwm (normal site)
    C3 on Lhotse Face right of Geneva Spur
    C4 at South Col
    C5 on SE Ridge (halfway South Col-South Summit).

    BC(28/03,5350m),C1(04/04,6000m),ABC(11/04,6500m),C3(19/04,7300m),
    C4(28/04,7986m),C5(04/05,8300m),Smt(05,10/05)

  North Side Camp Details:

    BC(06/03,5154m),C1(11/03,5500m),C2(12/03,6000m),ABC C3(17/03,6500m),
    C4(01/04,7028m),C5(08/04,7790m),C6(02/05,8200m),C7(04/05,8680m),Smt(05/05)

  South team had to hurry up to catch up with N side climbers because were 10 days late at BC due to transport problems to BC (after 29 March in almost daily walkie-talkie radio contact with north side). No mountaineering problems but communications problems among 3 nationalities who had "quite different" ideas especially "Chinese who had quite a bureaucratic inflexible attitude." Chinese were CMA staffers or TMA staff members, not army who had to obey orders from North BC or later when contact established by radio with Beijing, orders from Beijing of what they must do - where as most Japanese members paid some fees to join. Nepalese on salary from NMA but were quite familiar to Japanese. Tibetans could not speak frankly to others because "observers" were in BC who were Han Chinese and Han Chinese at BC could not differ with Beijing. 

  South side climbing not much snow, so had packed ice. Icefall very dry and stable - on summit climb 5 May, deep snow on ridge. 5 May summit group planned to be 2 traversing parties: Top Bahadur Khatri in 2nd group but miscalculated oxygen supply with not enough on South Col: 24 bottles were there Ok but 17 or 18 empty on 4 May when these 6 and 6 support members on Col or above, hoping all to go to top. 2 Chinese were to go so went, Ang Phurba followed them to C5 to 8300m on 4 May - not enough oxygen at 8300m for Kitamura to go with them, so he stayed at C4 and tried to go to top on 5th from C4 early morning in very strong wind. Khatri and Isona and supporting members including Sungdare did not try to go up because oxygen at Col only enough for one summiter from there. Kitamura reached South Summit at 3:00 pm; was told it too late for him to continue, leadership felt, and told Yamada to bring him down.

  7 May Beijing said climb finished but young Japanese and some Nepalese climbers did not agree. 6 Nepalese went to South Col: Sungdare, Padam Bahadur Tamang, Ang Karma, Ang Rita (Thami), Narayan Shrestha and Hira Bahadur Rana - why all 6 did not reach summit Isono doesn't know. Nepalese defied end of climb decision and it was their country, but Japanese were not permitted to continue, much to their unhappiness. 
   
  South Chinese climbing leader stayed in North Col camp with Shigehiro at end of climbing period.                                                                                                                                       

  North side 3 stages of climb: 

  1) make camps and carry loads to N Col, 
  2) do same to C6 with loads but not occupy higher camps - then all down
     to BC for rest,
  3) complete climb 

  In 1st stages down to BC when bad weather came after C3 established. In 2nd stage C6 reached but not slept in for 1st time on 9th April. In 3rd stage C6 occupied and rest of climb completed. Did not at any time have to wait for south side climbers to make progress because south side route easier to climb and number of camps less and fact summit date fixed for 5 May.  team led by Yamada who knew south route. 6 Yamada selected before leaving Japan so could descend without south side climbers to guide them down. Oxygen used in C5 sleeping, same members climbing above C5, all members sleeping in C6 and C8 and climbing above C7. From summit Yamada left about 10:30 am with Ang Lhakpa and Cerin Douji. Linert Yamada party at top and left 11:00 am. Lhakpa Sona and Yamoumoto left 12:30 pm. Camera crew reached top just few minutes before south side trio arrived and left at 1:00 pm. 2nd traverse team in C5 ready to go to top (had ferried oxygen and food and fuel to C6 on 6 May) when decision taken late night 6 May by Chinese leader (final decision taken 3:00 am 7 May Chinese time) so 2nd team to N Col 7 May. In 2nd team was Mitani who would have been his 4th ascent.

  Japanese climbers very greatly disappointed by decision to call off climb. Assume decision taken to quit before anyone hurt. In each camp to and including C6 3-nations members lived in separate tents and ate own national foods at BC but above had basic Japanese food with Chinese and Nepalese Tsampa or yak meet to their own taste. All load carrying forced to be equal.

  A body was found in a tent at 7500m on NE Ridge, north side climbers reported - was Westerner from clothing label, perhaps Spanish - definitely not Mallory. 

  Summiters                                         arrived smt   left smt

  Yamada, Ang Lhakpa & Cerin Douji, traverse team   9:30 am NST  10:30 NST

  * Li Zhixin  }  support team for traverse team   10:30 am NST  11:00
    Lhakpa Sona                                    10:45         12:30
    Yamamoto                                       11:00         12:30

  Shoji Nakamura, Susumu                           11:15          1:00 pm
  Nakemura & Saegusa      } television team

  (Did not have special helmet with camera fixed to it - forgot it)

  * support team were meant to carry 2 oxygen bottles each, one bottle 
    for own use and one for traverse team - but Li carried only one bottle
    for himself - Chinese had to have a Han Chinese on summit.

  Members on north side:
  1. 14 Japanese, 14 climbers + 14 Nepalese high climbers  -  42
  2. Support climber - all Nepalese                           12
  3  Television men who climbed - all Japanese                15
  4. Television men to Lha La camp - all Japanese             12
  5. Television Sherpas - Nepalese                            10
  6. newspapers writers and photogs to N Col-Japanese          5
     (woman to ABC only)                                     ---
                                                              96
  7. BC staff - leaders, 4 doctors (1 Chinese, 3 Japanese)    56
                                                             ---
     interpreters, cooks, drivers, radio operators           152

  above BC - 46 Japanese
             36 Nepal
             14 Climbers
            ---
             96

  Members on South side:
  1. 14 Japanese, 14 climbers + 14 Nepalese high climbers  -  42
  2. Icefall Sherpas - all Nepalese                           20
  3  Television men who climbed - all Japanese to S Col        4
  4. Television Sherpas - Nepalese                             0
  6. newspapers writers and photogs to N Col-Japanese          4
     (to ABC only)                                           ---
                                                              96
  7. BC staff - 3 leaders, 3 doctors, 3 Chinese jouralists
     3 interpreters, 2 cooks, 5 kitchen boys, 
     2 radio operators & miscellaneous Nepalese            20-25
                                                             ---
                                                         100-125



  Isono - 27 Feb 88

  Chinese 1960 and 1975: 500 members including 200 soldiers for party from BC - ABC (5000-6500m) and including BC staff doctors and communicators and journalists - climbing 150 total but above North Col 70 climbers only, 35 above 7600m - both years were military exercises: sports committees for military fitness.

  1988 first time Chinese have chance to join another type of expedition, one organized purely for mountaineering. Most Japanese members are amateur and all paid to be on this expedition half or finances from or collected by members.

  Chinese govt pays its members salaries and BC food and equipment and getting all to BC.

  3 team leaders at each BC and climbing leader; 3 general leaders in Birjunj - these leaders must respect decison of climbing leaders.

  Political problems can arise: climbing leaders feel weather conditions to bad for safe climbing and want to withdraw from mountain but general leaders in Beijing want climb to keep going. Isano hopes general leaders will listen to climbing leaders.


  North side

  3 stages of climb: 1st stage all baggage to ABC; 2nd made route to C3, C4 and C6 and then all members down to BC for rest 7-10 days (had originally planned to go down further then BC, to Xixabangma and Xegar but not enough time). From mid-March to mid-April, much strong wind and had to crawl above N col. After mid-April wind lessened. First summit team left ABC 30 Apr to C4, 4 May from C6 to C7 and slept there, 5 May to summit and down to S Col; stayed 2 hours on summit (9:25-11:30 am NST). Li Zhixin, support member carried oxygen only for himself but should have brought supply for summit-traverse party. Cerni Doji oxygen finished on summit and Yamada's at bottom of Hillary Step. Li was only other climber from North be on top while traverse team from N were there. Yanada and 2 met Da Cering, Ang Phurba and then Rinzen Pungcog at bottom of Hillary Step; Ang Lhakpa gave his new bottle of oxygen to Ang Phurba here because Ang Phurba's supply finished. So Yamada and 2 continued down to S Col without no oxygen and arrived S Col 3:30 pm; met Kitamura near South Summit (100m below) and he descended with Yamada to Col because leader said too late for him to continue. Yamada, Ang Lhakpa and Cerin Dorje to BC 6 May. Lang route from N side. Yamada and party 3 days above 8000m "but we used oxygen - not so hard." Used oxygen sleeping in C5 and C6 climbing above C6. Not difficult climb, just long route. Wants to do new route on SW Face in winter.


expid: LHOT55301
peakid: LHOT
year: 1955
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Norman Dyhrenfurth
sponsor: International Himalayan Expedition 1955
countries: Austria, Switzerland
bcdate: 1955-08-30
smtdate: 1955-10-15
termdate: 1955-10-30
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to frequent storms (snow and wind)
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (IMJA-551-01) and Palung Ri (PLNG-552-01); recon Lhotse Shar (LSHR-551-01)
accidents: 2 Sherpas fell but no serious injury; Spirig snowblindness and exhaustion
achievment: 1st attempt to climb Lhotse
campsites:
  BC(30/08,5300m),C1(06/09,6100m),C2.ABC(18/09,6550m),C3(7000m),C4(08/10,7375m),C5(14/10,7620m),xxx(15/10,8100m)

routememo:
  Ascent route W face; Highest point at near couloir; Descent route W face

  1st summit bid: 10 Oct, reached 7770m from C4
  2nd summit bid: 15 Oct, reached 8100m from C5


expid: LHOT74101
peakid: LHOT
year: 1974
route1: From SE Barun Glacier via Lhotse Shar
nation: W Germany
leaders: Gerhard Lenser
sponsor: West German Expedition to Lhotse
countries: Austria
approach: Tumlingtar->Shipton La->Upper Barun Glacier (BC)
bcdate: 1974-04-05
smtdate: 1974-05-23
termdate: 1974-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at Shartse summit
othersmts: Climbed Shartse illegally (SHAR-741-01)
campsites:
  BC(05/04,5400m),C1(13/04,5750m),C2(16/04,6100m),C3(27/04,6500m),C4(07/05,6600m),C5(08/05,6900m),Biv(22/05,7100m),xxx(23/05,7459m)

routememo:
  Warth - Feb 83

  Spring 1974 Makalu/Shartse expedition had 4 Sherpas who went above BC.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 18 Dec 74

  Shartse not officialy climbed by Lenser's expedition. HMG has no official report of it from expedition and LO doubts they were able to do so. Did not have permit for Shartse. Permit was for Lhotse via SE Ridge and Lhotse Shar.


  Bach - 30 May 74

  Arrived ex-Tumlingtar today alone
  Other 3 arrive 6th June in charter

  Good success on 23 May summit of Shartse 7500m on way to Lhotse by Diemberger and Warth and came directly down because great difficulty with weather.

  7th May 1st attempt by Warth and Nawang Tenzing but during night thunderstorm with 1m snow and had to come down and waited till 15th.

  BC at "U" of Barun Glacier at 5300m
  C1 - in icefall at 5600m - east of "a" - then west
  C2 - 6150m just below 6200m pass
  C3 - C4 and C5 on ridge north from pass
  C3 - 6500m
  C4 - 6600m
  C5 - 6900m
  C6 was for last night at 7100m before summit attempt on 23rd

  1:45 pm reached summit Sharste. No frostbite, no accidents or other problems.

  From Shartse to Peak 38 to Lhotse Shar is a new ridge route to Lhotse Shar.

  Bach reached C3. 

  Lenser reached C4 before snow and ice avalanche which completely destroyed C4 after 8 May. Don't know exact date because no one there.

  Others now on way to T'tar - 20th Bach left BC
                             - 25th others left BC

  Ridge wss more difficult then expected; combined with weather was tremendous. Last at least 2 weeks by bad weather so no time to go no to Peak 38. Makalu had already given up on 14th.

  Cho Polu - 6734m
  Southeast of Lhotse

  1st ascent - NZ (Hillary) 
  1954 spring (Norman Hardie)

  Pethangtse - 6710m (22,014 ft)
  East of Lhotse

  1st ascent - 1954 spr - NZ (Hillary)
  2nd ascent - 1954 aut - French (Franco)
  3rd ascent - 1955 spr - French (Franco)
  4th ascent - 1964 spr - Japan (Rikkio U led by Hirostoshi Fukuda)


  Nairz - 16 May 74

  C6 6700m. Lhotse team message received 8 May said they trying for this in next couple of days, but weather was bad during following days.


  MP Khanal, MFA

  Advance party making good progress. Established base camp on Barun Glacier on 6 April at 5400m, C1 at 5700m, C1 at 5700m on 8 April and C2 (by Diemberger and Warth) at 6000m on 10 April.

  Lenser joined advance party.


  Deacock to Cheney - 3 April 74

  Lenser was at Tumlingtar yesterday, having flown there from Lukla.

  See Nairz letter of 5 April about small, ill-equipped advance party and sick doctor.


  Lenser, et al - 15 March 74

  Diemberger and Warth leave KTM Monday for Tumlingtar and drop Lenser off at Lukla enroute. Lenser Lukla/T'tar on 24 March.

  Will approach Lhotse via 7500m peaks; will do what they can. Diemberger hopes to join Austrian Everest expedition 1978.


  Lenser - 7 March 74

  Diemberger only man to have 2 8000m 1st ascents. 

  "We will not go back without any peak." Cho Polu, Pethangtse, etc all around; might try these or 7500m peaks.


  Lenser - 6 March 74

  Leave next week, go via Barun Glacier. "Will do what is possible to do."
  3 Germans and 1 Austrian
  2 arrive last week
  Lenser today
  Diemberger (Austrian) Sun or Monday


  Letter from C. P. Bach

  Kurt Diemberger, Hermann Warth and me left Tumlingtar on the 18/3. We got enough porters till Sedua, then the troubles began. We had great diffiuculties to get porters till Makalu base camp, they were cheating and difficult to handle. At last we reached our BC the 5-4-74, that is situated 1 day further in the glacier than Makalu BC. Altitude 5500m (in feet 16,500 ft). Today Diemberger and Warth established Camp 1 under the ridge/saddle of Cho Polu/Shartse in 6000m altitude.

  Mr Lenser managed to transfer the rest of the equipment from Lukla to Tumlingtar on 31/3. So he will join us in a couple of days here in our base camp. Then the group is together and we hope our expectations will be fulfilled.


expid: LHOT79301
peakid: LHOT
year: 1979
route1: W Face
nation: Poland
leaders: Adam Bilczewski
sponsor: Silesian Himalaya Expedition Lhotse 1979
ascent1: 7th,8th
countries: Norway, W Germany
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1979-09-03
smtdate: 1979-10-04
smttime: 1250
termdate: 1979-10-12
campsites: BC(03/09,5400m),C1(06/09,6050m),C2(10/09,6500m),C3(17/09,7200m),C4(24/09,7850m),Smt(04,09/10)
routememo:
  Koisar & Bilczewski - 20 Oct 79

  When we see other side of Lhotse, this route not logical and there was great risk. Heinrich, Szulc and Chalecki in late Sept from C3. 3 reached South Col and saw this. Most go around rocks and unlogical; much more logical from C4 direct to summit but strong winds drove them into normal route via colouir for protection.
   
  Weather very clear and sunny but wind very strong.
  3 gendarmes on Chinese side. 3 members to summit without oxygen: Kukuczka, Czok and Niklas.

  1st planned 5 and 5 in each of 2 summit parties but late reduced to 4 and 4 members of 2 summit teams. No 3rd team planned, but had support teams.

  Very good co-operation with Germans in Icefall in making route. 

  No Sherpas, so all members worked very hood. All reached C2 twice or more; 11 to C4.


  Hans Van Kaenel - 19 Oct 79 (Everest expedition)

  Poles tried to cross Col and climb from north but found north side too dangerous and difficult; cornices, rock gendarmes, avalanche danger. So actually used same route as Van Kaenel's German expedition in spring 1977.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Ministry of Tourism - 9 Oct 79
  (From LO on 7 Oct)

  Summit 4 Oct:
  1)  Zygmunt Heinrich, with oxygen
  2)  Janusz Skorek, with oxygen
  3)  Jerzy Kukuczka, no oxygen
  4)  Andrzej Czok, no oxygen

  At 12:50 hours on top; Nepal and Poland flags, photos; stayed 30 minutes.

  All well. Other 2 summits teams to attack.


  Kosiar - 9 Aug 79

  Most members with baggage leave KTM 10 Aug, Koisar and Bilczewski leave 11 Aug - meet at Lamosangu and all leave Lamusangu 12 Aug on march-in.

  Tourism Ministry has specifically stated expedition is permitted to cross South Col and climb to Lhotse's summit from east - may divide summit assault into 3 teams:

  1) from Col towards top on East Face make route part way and return to Col camp
  2) go to summit from Col and descend via Lhotse West Face 
  3) go to summit via Lhotse West Face

  East Face summiters will be out of radio contact with BC while they're on East Face. 2nd team at Col to keep contact with them.

  Whether to divide into 3 parties as above depends on weather and speed of progress: if it takes 6-7 weeks to get very high, this can work, but if takes 8 weeks, will go to top the easiest way possible.

  Border must be at Col and over ridge to Lhotse, Lhotse "Intermediate" and Lhotse Shar summits, but Ministry did not raise the subject and neither did Poles. Ministry denied permit to climb all the way to Lhotse Intermediate because it's a summit, but not on list.


  Koisar & Bilczewski - 1 Aug 79

  Route = South Col and East with C5 on face about 8250m, descent perhaps by West Face.

  Leave KTM soon as possible after other members arrive by truck from Bombay. 6 to 8 weeks for climb.

  No Sherpas above BC. Have 20 climbers. Popowicz and Szulc not counted. Popowicz not above BC and maybe not there; Szulc not above BC. [Note: Popowicz went to C3].

  Use oxygen, above 7800m for sleeping and above 8000m for climbing.


  Letter from Heinrich - 24 Sept 79

  Sept 17th we established camp 3 on the altitude 7200m. It was established by the team Adam Bilczewski, Janusz Skorek, Andrzej Czok, Andrzej Heinrich, Jerzy Kukuczka, Janusz Baranek. It is located to the right of the Geneva Ridge on the face of Lhotse. During the tow next days the camp was arrived through 4 members teams who carried endorsement. On Sept 24th the same team headed by Bilczewski established camp 4 on the altitude 7850m in around 2 pm.

  Last week the weather was not very good. Strong wind in the Western Cwm, snowfall and fog make the climbing difficult. But last two days (23 and 24 Sept) was very nice weather, sun no clouds.


  Letter from Heinrich - 23 Sept 79

  Our expedition has established the camp 2 on Sept 10th, 9 o'clock am on the altitude 6500m. It is located under the face of Mt Everest in the upper part of Western Cwm. The camp 2 was established by A. Czok, J. Skorek, A. Heinrich, J. Kukuczka, J. Baranek and Howard Nesheim. In the camp 2 there are 3 tents. Now all members transport the equipment to endorsement camp 2. Weather it still good.


  Letter - 16 Aug 79

  After 22 days caravan the expedition arrived the Sept 3rd, the Base Camp. The first part of the caravan from Lamosangu to Namche Bazar was very bad. Porters still ran away. The naike has stolen some goods and equipment and also ran away. At last in Junbesi the very young sirdar Nima Sherpa leaved from the caravan. He has no experience and was not able to control the porters. We must every day arrange new porters. At last the caravans was divided in 4 parts arrived Namche Bazar. The new sirdar Anu carried on without trouble, very correctly the caravan in 5 days from Namche to BC camp. We arrived BC the Sept 3rd. The September 6th was established camp 1 above the Icefall, on the altitude about 6050m. The weather is good all members are by good health and condition. 

  During the caravan very helpful was our liaison officer, Mr Gurung. He is our real friend and do all for success our expedition.


expid: LHOT80302
peakid: LHOT
year: 1980
route1: W Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Reinhold Messner
sponsor: Messner Himalayan Expedition to Lhotse
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1980-10-04
smtdate: 1980-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to high winds
campsites: BC(04/10,5400m),C1(08/10,6400m),Biv1(15/10,6400m),Biv2(16/10,7400m),xxx(17/10,7800m)
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  Messner - 26 Oct 80

  Messner and Dawa Tenzing went up to Everest C2 on 8th Oct and pitched two-man tent, then back to BC.

  Messner agreed to wait for Italian-Nepalese Everest team to go to Lhotse themselves. By 15th Santon said they were not attempting Lhotse, so he went up to C2 on 15th and next day to Everest C3. Carried light tent and other gear to C3. Climbed with Everest Sherpas (Dati had reached age 26 and this an inauspicious year in which to undertake hazards without puja which he not done). On 17th tried to go top summit but wind too strong, couldn't stand up against it as soon as he got above Nuptse ridge, so went down to BC was strong enough to go back up for another try but Everest expedition pulling out, route not to be maintained in Icefall and no one to go with. Impossible to go through Icefall alone if route not maintained - so made no further attempt. Had wanted Diemberger to come from South Col and join him, but Everest leader Santon refused permission to Diemberger.


  Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 17 Oct 80

  Messner left 7400m at 3:00 am and reached 7800m at 7:00 am; very bad weather (high wind, thick clouds and very cold). He returned to BC at 12:00 noon. Because of continuous of bad weather, he has abandoned climb and leaves BC 20th.


  Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 16 Oct 80

  Messner has gone alone to C3 and reached there today. Left BC yesterday at 6:00 am; above C3 he makes his own route.

  Used Italian Icefall route and reached C2 at 11:00 yesterday.
  Today arrived C3 9:00 am; had left C2 5:30-6:00 am.
  Was not accompanied by Dawa Tenzing, but today from C2 to C3 by an Italian 
    expedition Sherpa. 
  Tomorrow will attempt summit from C3 alone. 


  Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 13 Oct 80

  Messner will start his climb after 20th Oct.


  Bobby Chettri - 21 Sept 80

  Messner left KTM yesterday at 5:00 am for Lamosangu; will acclimatize in Gokyo and Teshi Lapcha areas until goes for Lhotse.

  Tourism Ministry have told him not to go into Khumbu Icefall until 15 Oct to keep peace with Italy-Nepal expedition.

  Messner said will take him a week to go top once he starts through Icefall. (Santon refused to talk on BC radio with Messner last week).


  Messner - 16 Sept 80

  Will climb West Face with or without Dawa Tsering ("Dati" of Mountain Travel) as DT likes, but wants him through Icefall and Cwm. No claim to make solo Lhotse ascent since Everest expedition there in Icefall and Cwm. Wants helicopter to Khumbu.

  [Helicopter not available, so walks in, leaves KTM 20 Sept; will not try to go through Icefall until 15 Oct, leaving Italy-Nepal expedition time to do their climb; he needs time for acclimatization anyway - Bobbi Chetri].


expid: LHOT80401
peakid: LHOT
year: 1980
route1: W Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Pierantonio Camozzi
sponsor: Italian National Expedition to Lhotse in Winter
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1981-01-06
smtdate: 1981-02-02
termdate: 1981-02-04
termnote: Abandoned at 8050m due to lack of equipment for rock
campsites: BC(06/01,5350m),C1(17/01,6050m),C2(21/01,6500m),C3(28/01,7500m),xxx(02/02,8050m)
routememo:
  Da Polenza, Lhotse - 16 Feb 81

  Just under couloir at about 8050m was highest points reached on 2 Feb by Da Polenza above; not to Col but level with Col.

  Impossible to go to top because couloir only hard rock instead of ice and snow. Expedition not equipped for this rock: needed 4 or 5 days more to scale this.

  15 days high up, they had learned by then and could stay at high altitude no longer; weather worse than expected, more cold and stronger wind than expected.

  All have little frostbite and Da Polenza more on little finger right hand which will heal.

  Bianchi slipped into crevasse into Icefall 35-40m; very lucky that big rucksack stopped his fall. Near bottom of Icefall when leaving mountain.

  No oxygen used climbing or sleeping.

  Sherpas worked badly in winter although had same clothing as members.

  Very hard and very difficult to climb in winter in Nepal; need better equipment for winter especially.


  Rouse - 10 Feb 81

  Italians planned to leave BC ?th and should be in KTM 12th. One member went up Japanese ropes to South Col but this not their route. He was expedition's only real climber, Agostino Da Polenza. Expedition got very little above C3 on their own route.

  Icefall kept getting blocked by falling blocks. Sherpas didn't carry food to Cwm. Stopped climbing about 2 Feb.


  Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 30 Jan 81

  C3 7550m, 28 Jan today. 16 about at BC, pretty cloudy and windy.
  Are waiting for weather in C3.


  Da Polenza and Santinello - 16 Dec 80

  All arrive KTM 14 Dec; leave KTM end this week.
  Fly to Lukla and arrive BC for Xmas.
  Radio at BC
  5 climbers
  1 Dr
  3 trekkers to BC only
  Route = West Face to couloir (not to Col)
  4 camps above with C4 at 7900m
  5 Sherpas above BC including sirdar Lhakpa (with Santon on Everest)
  Expedition to use oxygen above 8000m. Messner records in winter without it 
    impossible - have only 16 bottles and will try not to use it.
  4 weeks BC to summit. Will use Japanese route in Icefall and Cwm.


expid: LHOT82301
peakid: LHOT
year: 1982
route1: W Face
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Peter Hillary
sponsor: Lhotse Expedition 1982
countries: Australia, UK
bcdate: 1982-08-26
smtdate: 1982-10-08
termdate: 1982-10-12
termnote: Abandoned at 8230m due to avalanche danger and winds
campsites: BC(26/08,5500m),C1(16/09,6060m),C2(20/09,6500m),C3(28/09,7100m),C4(07/10,7865m),xxx(08/10,8230m)
routememo:
  Canadians (Everest) and NZ Lhotse had BC, C1, C2 and C3 close together. On 8th Oct got to 27,000 ft and then were inside a cloud with storm of snowfall, white-out and wind; endangered by threat of avalanche. 4 men were 2-1/2 hrs from top without oxygen.

  Made no other attempt because would have had to go to BC for rest first and nightmare Icefall not fit to go through more than once. Didn't have reserves for more attacks and without oxygen and Sherpas were slower then Canadians. Had been fixing ropes in face for themselves and Canadians, thus were delayed till 8th Oct for summit attempt.

  Canadian Everest agent said NZ Lhotse would be one camp ahead but Canadians ignored that.


  Ala, Tourism - 11 Oct 82

  Abandoned on 10 Oct due bad weather; arrived back to BC 10 Oct. Leave BC 12 Oct. 8200m highest point reached on Friday by expedition; how many reached, not known here. All well.


  Sharma, Tourism - 3 Oct 82

  1 Oct 8:30 am C4 established at 7750m by Hillary and From. Burgess resting in C3. Strong wind on 1 Oct. 3 Oct all Lhotse in C2.


  Sharma, Tourism - 20 Sept 82

  Today 9:30 am 6500m pitched C2 by 3 members. Paul Moores slightly unwell stayed at C1. Established C3 within 4-5 days they hope.


  Sharma, Tourism - 17 Sept 82

  C1 yesterday 6060m 3:00 pm by Peter Hillary, Paul Moores, Adrian Burgess and Fred From. C2 in 4-5 days. All in good health.


  Sharma, Tourism - 16 Sept 82

  2 members and 2 Sherpas moved into icefall today. Do not know whether they will stay at C1 or return to BC.


  Hillary & Burgess - 1 Aug 82

  Probably have deposit camp at top of icefall, ABC in mid-Cwm, a camp at beginning of Lhotse face and perhaps another camp mid-face. Maybe 1 or 2 H-A porters to top of Icefall.

  Reach BC late Aug, spend perhaps 6 weeks acclimatization trekking, carrying loads to deposit camp, moving up Cwm and putting tent at bottom of face. Then early to mid-Oct make push up face to summit. No oxygen.


expid: LHOT83301
peakid: LHOT
year: 1983
route1: W Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Kazuyuki Takahashi
sponsor: Kamoshika Dojin Mt. Everest Winter Expedition 1983-84
ascent1: 10th,11th
countries: S Korea
bcdate: 1983-09-11
smtdate: 1983-10-09
othersmts: Climbed Everest (EVER-834-01)
campsites:
  BC(11/09,5300m),C1(17/09,6100m),C2.ABC(21/09,6400m),C3(27/09,7400m),C4(02/10,7850m),Smt(09-10,14/10)

routememo:
  BC at foot of Khumbu Icefall.

  See above much snow and wind. Had to come down from C4 after 2nd Oct to await clear weather and less wind.

  1 Sherpa hurt in fall during training and sirdar frostbitten toes which will heal and he willl be able to climb Everest. Kagawa's brain affected by altitude in summiting and being escorted home by another member.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 17 Oct 83

  14 Oct - 2 members and 1 sirdar reach summit: 
    Kazuyuki Takahashi
    Shigeru Suzuki
    Sirdar Pemba Norbu, 33 
  Health condition of all fine.
  No mention regarding more attempts or weather.


  K Takahashi - 19 Aug 83

  Takahashi, Hanawa and Kaji arrived KTM yesterday. Leave for BC after about 4 days. After Lhotse climb Hanawa comes to KTM for more supplies (winter tents, warmer jackets) for Everest climb while rest of team to spend 3-4 weeks resting at Hotel Everest View. Takahashi does not come to KTM.

  25 Nov start into Icefall again for Everest climb. Purpose of expedition is to scale Everest and Lhotse climb is training for Everest, but also to make 1st Japanese ascent of Lhotse.

  Lhotse climb will make route from BC to C3 to be followed on Everest climb also, and these camps will have been established. But fixed ropes of Lhotse climb will have been covered by snow by Dec and useless for Everest ascent.

  BC doctor leaves expedition at end of Lhotse climb.


expid: LHOT84301
peakid: LHOT
year: 1984
route1: S Face
nation: USA
leaders: Richard Salisbury
sponsor: American Lhotse Expedition
approach: Khumbu trekking peak (Lobuje E or Pokalde)
bcdate: 1984-10-16
smtdate: 1984-10-20
termdate: 1984-10-30
termnote: Joined Nepal Police Sagamantha Clean-Up expedition
othersmts: Island Peak
campsites: BC(16/10),C1(20/10,6100m),xxx
agency: Journeys Mountaineering & Trekking
routememo:
  Never planned to climb Lhotse (permit taken to avoid political problems associated with the American Bass party presence on Everest).

  Made no attempt to climb Lhotse. Did not even go to the mountain after ascent of Island Peak but went to Everest BC to join Nepalese Police clean-up campaign and go to S Col if possible. Had like Bass been invited to join the police. Took permit for Lhotse as subterfuge, only way of gaining access to Cwm Received permit for S Face but LO said he'd gotten it changed to W Face (which he had not). Went to Everest BC and Hatfield to C1, then bad weather. Yogendra Thapa told them to wait till Dutch finished and then go back up.


expid: LHOT85302
peakid: LHOT
year: 1985
route1: S Face
nation: France
leaders: Vincent Fine
sponsor: Expedition Lhotse 1985
bcdate: 1985-10-07
smtdate: 1985-11-01
termnote: Abandoned at 8050m due to Poles' decision to quit
othersmts: Island Peak, attempted Thamserku (THAM-853-01)
campsites: BC(07/10,5250m),Biv1(23/10,6000m),Biv2(24/10,7000m),Biv3(25/10,7250m),xxx(01/11,8050m)
accidents: Fauquet hit on hip Oct 24 by falling stone
routememo:
  BC   at 5250m very close to Polish camp
  Biv1 on South Face
  Biv2 on South Face
  Biv3 on South Face.

  First to Island Peak and then after bad weather; Fauquet, Fine and Martine about 19 Oct on top of it. 

  23 Oct Fauquet and Fine started up Lhotse and climbed unroped to 7250m by 25th; on 25th saw Pole falling to his death and Facquet wanted to stop; there was falling rock. 26th Oct to BC and Facquet left the mountain while Fine joined Poles. 29th Fine up with Poles on their ropes and in their camps and on 31st in their C6. On 1 Nov should have gone up to fix ropes about 8200m but Fine too cold and Poles deciding to abandon climb. Fine reached 8050m on 1 Nov and then down off the mountain. Had gone weather and mild wind while on Lhotse; little snow.


expid: LHOT85301
peakid: LHOT
year: 1985
route1: S Face (right side via Couloir)
nation: Poland
leaders: Janusz Majer
sponsor: Polish Lhotse S Face Expedition
approach: Thyangboche->Dingboche->Chhukung
bcdate: 1985-08-30
smtdate: 1985-10-22
termdate: 1985-11-01
termnote: Abandoned at 8200m due to difficult route, high winds, exhaustion
accidents: Cholda died from fall
campsites:
  BC(30/08,5200m),C1(06/09,5800m),C2(11/09,6200m),C3(22/09,6600m),C4(25/09,7100m),C5(03/10,7400m),C6(21/10,7800m),xxx(22/10,8200m)

routememo:
  BC at Lhotse Glacier below near Chhukung Peak usual Lhotse Shar BC
  C1 on face (50m above Czech's Lhotse Shar)
  C2 on face (50m below Czech's Lhotse Shar)
  C3 on face (100m below Czech's Lhotse Shar)
  C4 on face (same as Czech's C4)
  C5 on face (near Czech's C5)
  C6 on face.

  11-22 Sept daily snowfall meant could not make progress. From C5 went nearly to Czech's C6 and then made 600m traverse to left towards main summit and put C6 in couloir directly below Lhotse Intermediate at 60-degree-steep snow and ice. On 22 Oct reached 8200m on a ridge in difficult rock climbing with snow mushrooms very tiring to get around them. Now too far to top. 

  25 Oct 2nd summit bid, fixed ropes in 1st rock band at 8100m and returned towards C6 when Cholda fell. 29 Oct 3rd attempt reached C6 on 31 Oct. 1 Nov Hajzer and Fine (French expedition) tried to go on, but too difficult for them and turned back. 

  1st Nov Kukuczka and Dasal then decided that because of 3rd party failure to fix more ropes it was impossible for them to get to top. Probably another camp required. 17-20 Oct heavy snowfall and then winds began. Very high on mountain problem was lack of snow staying on mountain and everyone tired after nearly 2 months. South Face of Lhotse is for 1990 although perhaps big expedition can manage now.

  Kukuczka arrived at BC 30 Sept; Fiut left to come to KTM when Cholda died. Pawlowski and Wielicki also left slightly early.


expid: LHOT86101
peakid: LHOT
year: 1986
route1: W Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Masaaki Fukushima
sponsor: Bernina Alpine Club Lhotse Expedition 1986
ascent1: 13th
bcdate: 1986-03-31
smtdate: 1986-05-04
smttime: 0845
campsites: BC(31/03,5350m),C1(18/04,6100m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(30/04,7300m),C4(03/05,7900m),Smt(04/05)
accidents: None
agency: Himalayan Journeys
routememo:
  BC at 5850m at bottom of Khumbu Icefall
  C1 at 6100m at top of Icefall
  C2 at 6400m in Western Cwm
  C3 at 7300m on West Face
  C4 at 7900m at top of couloir.

  Difficulty: rock in couloir. Weather problem was strong wind and often low cloud preventing seeing route. Second summit bid not made because all others now tired and not very well.

  Oxygen used in C3 and C4 for sleeping and for summit climb.


expid: LHOT86102
peakid: LHOT
year: 1986
route1: W Face
nation: Poland
leaders: Tadeusz Karolczak
sponsor: Polish Everest Expedition 1986 (Spring)
ascent1: 14th
bcdate: 1986-04-10
smtdate: 1986-05-14
termdate: 1986-05-28
othersmts: Attempted Everest (EVER-861-05)
campsites: Smt(14/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
primid: EVER86105
routememo:
  On the 14th the 2 Poles, Lwow and Karolczak, went surreptitiously to the summit of Lhotse and back to their bivouac. They considered their Lhotse ascent good acclimatization for another go at the West Ridge route, but Karolczak now developed stomach illness and Austrian member Putz had dropped out of the climb because of an old back injury. 

  On 24th May Lwow went alone up through the Khumbu Icefall to try to solo the normal route, but the following several days brought heavy snowfall, he was able to get no higher than 6700m, he was very tired and it would have taken him more days to reach the summit alone than were left in the climbing season. He returned to BC on 27th and abandoned the struggle on the 28th of May.


expid: LHOT86301
peakid: LHOT
year: 1986
route1: W Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Reinhold Messner
sponsor: Messner Makalu & Lhotse Expeditions
ascent1: 15th
countries: France, Switzerland
bcdate: 1986-10-10
smtdate: 1986-10-16
smttime: 1345
othersmts: Climbed Makalu (MAKA-863-01)
campsites: BC(10/10,5400m),C2(14/10,6400m),C3(15/10,7450m),Smt(16/10)
accidents: Messner slight frostbite on wrists from wind-driven cold
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)/Mountain Trav
routememo:
  BC at usual site
  C2 high in Western cwm, 1/2 hour from Lhotse Face
  C3 on Lhotse Face.

  Waited at BC for better weather, wasn't bad but was cloudy and windy. Messner, Kammerlander and Mutschlechner up on 14th to C2 with Thomaseth (who went to C2 to film). Mutschlechner down on 15th to BC with tooth problem and others up to use Swiss tents at C3. On 16th Messner and Kammerlander again up in strong wind, risking failure in wind stronger than at camp. Other time Messner started for any summit. In couloir had strong wing at their backs which helped push them up but made descent difficult (but couloir technically easy to climb), almost all of face was hard snow. Team was "perfectly" acclimatized from Makalu climb.


  Paoletti - 17 Oct 86

  Messner and Kammerlander on way to top left C3 at 8:00 am; at 7:00 am had radioed impossible wind but by 8:00 Ok and got a push from wind on their backs.

  Was very cold at summit.
  Made no C1. 
  Leave BC 18 Oct for Lukla flight.

  Tent and journalists arrive KTM 20th.


  Moreto Paoletti - 16 Oct 86

  Lhotse summit reached at 1:45 pm Messner and Kammerlander from C3. Good weather, irregular wind. All are very well. Descending to C2 where will sleep tonight. BC tomorrow.

  22 chopper from Lukla to KTM.


  Paoletti - 15 Oct 86

  C3 - Messner, Kammerlander and 4 Sherpas, 7400m.

  Today very strong wind; may have to descend to BC if cannot sleep they well, but Mutschlechner had to go down to BC with dental problem.


  Paoletti - 14 Oct 86

  Messner, Kammerlander and 4 Sherpas. 
  Arrival at C2 6400m today.
  Hope C3 7200-7400m tomorrow and in 3 days from today hope for top.
  Weather not very good but snow has fallen off face so avalanche not so dangerous.
  All in good health.


expid: LHOT87301
peakid: LHOT
year: 1987
route1: S Face
nation: Poland
leaders: Krzysztof Wielicki
sponsor: Lhotse S Face International Expedition
countries: Italy, Mexico, UK
bcdate: 1987-09-06
smtdate: 1987-10-29
termdate: 1987-11-01
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to wind and no more strength in team
accidents: Jakiel killed by avalanche on Sep 15; Fiut broken leg from same avalanche
achievment: Highest point ever reached on S Face
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(06/09,5200m),C1(09/09,5600m),C2(14/09,6100m),C3(20/09,6600m),C4(27/09,7100m),C5(04/10,7450m),C6(14/10,7800m),xxx(29/10,8300m)

routememo:
  BC below Chhukung Peak, west side of Lhotse Shar Glacier
  C1 at rocky party (on face)
  High point at biv in cave.

  This time only 50m above last expedition's high point and line is possible. Problem to C5=none. They began from 7800m. This time put ropes to 8300m. Could not move above this bivouac point because of wind that blew up during night. Only 4 climbers did most of climbing work besides Wielicki and Hajzer (Dasal, Konopka, Osika and Pawlikowski) and then were exhausted after 50 days. On 30th Wielicki and Hajzer descended to BC because of wind and now no other strong climbers able to continue. Now also getting cold. Left BC 1 Nov.


  From "Kazdemu Jego Everest", Dasal

  Czeslaw Jakiel was killed instantly by an early morning (5 am) ice-block avalanche shortly after leaving C1 for C2. Jakiel was with two others who escaped injury.


  To Ministry of Tourism
  Mountaineering Section

  Report about accident on Sept 15

  Just after we established Camp 2 (at 6200m on Sept 14), we had 2 members in C2, 2 members in C1 (5750m). Our programme for Sept 15 was that, from BC will start next team to C1 (Czeslaw Jakiel, Walenty Fiut, Alois Brugger). They began walking from BC at 5:30 am crossing the Lhotse Glacier. At 6:20 am they have started to climb by snow stones slope towards the south face of Lhotse. After few minutes they have seen a big avalanche, it began very high on the right side of south face. They tried to escape, but avalanche came very quickly. Alois Brugger had fallen to the small crevasse. Walenty Fiut fixed his ice axe and kept himself. Czeslaw Jakiel walked last and they didn't see what he was doing, that moment. After avalanche came and Alois Brugger tried to find out friends. He found Walenty Fiut about 100m below, he was injured but alive and 20m for Czeslaw Jakiel, unfortunately he was dead, probably due to strong hit on his head (whole on back side). In the meantime avalanche pression had reached BC. Olev friends took binoculars and they have seen somebody running between victims. Immediately they started to rescue them. That accident have seen two members from C1 and they went down too. About 1 hour after accident, all members (except Kurt Walde and me) reached that place and began to help victims. They put Walenty Fiut on the board with diagnose...he has fracture left leg and hip and probably ribs. He was in very bad condition, before he lost consciousness and after he has been in shade. Alois Brugger was well. Members again have checked Czeslaw Jakiel, but he was dead. At 9 am they send Sardar Ang Kami to Namche Bazar for helicopter. Me and Kurt Walde reached accident place at 11:30 am. We decided to carrying Walenty Fiut to BC and secure Czeslaw body. BC we have reached at 4 pm.

  On Sept 16 we carried Walenty Fiut 20 minutes down, BC where we found good platform for helicopter, it was about 5100m high. Their we made a biv. Afternoon we have gone to Czeslaw body and we have made a funeral. We left him in about 15m deep crevasse and fill up up ice, snow and stones, close to accident place at 5300m below the south face. On Sept 17 at 9:30 am we have got a helicopter rescue, we put Walenty Fiut on stretcher and he flew with leader towards KTM (11:30 am).


expid: JANU89401
peakid: JANU
year: 1989
route1: SW Pillar-S Face
nation: Poland
leaders: Jan Orlowski
sponsor: Polish Jannu Winter Expedition 1989-90
bcdate: 1989-11-24
smtdate: 1990-01-09
termdate: 1990-01-10
termnote: Abandoned at 7360m due to terrible winds, dangerous icefall
accidents: Nothing serious
campsites:
  BC(24/11,4450m),ABC(30/11,4850m),C1(05/12,5350m),C2(12/12,5800m),C3(20/12,6450m),C4A(02/01,6700m),C4B(07/01,7200m),xxx(09/01,7360m)

routememo:
  BC  at Yamotari Glacier
  ABC at moraine of Yamatori Glacier
  C1  above icefall in Cwm, below West Face
  C2  on SW Pillar at very narrow place
  C3  in crevasse above 2nd serac on SW Pillar
  C4A behind top of SW pillar (100m down in a crevasse)
  C4B in crevasse before summit wall.

  Too much wind which made high technical climbing impossible. Technical climbing begin 1st Dec. Long walk from BC to ABC; C1 difficult rock of W Face to begining of W Pillar. Route was combination of variation of French & Czech routes climbed to top of W Pillar. Above top is glacier with crevasses. Wind fierce & hard ice to pillar & steep glacier. Windy so could not climb for each day. Fixed total 3500m rope, which takes a lot of work but needed in windy weather. At high point stopped because of danger from fierce gusts of wind. C2 tent blown half off ridge. Other member blown off his feet at glacier & saved by having held on to fixed rope. Very difficult route. Fixed 700m in icefall (300m vertical gain) and 1000m on high steep glacier.


expid: ANN190101
peakid: ANN1
year: 1990
route1: N Face (Dutch Rib)
nation: UK
leaders: Malcolm Duff
sponsor: Ascent Annapurna Expedition
countries: New Zealand, USA
bcdate: 1990-04-24
smtdate: 1990-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 6502m due to dangerously unstable serac barriers
campsites: BC(24/04,4150m),C1(26/04,5000m),C2(03/05,5600m),C3(14/05,6500m),xxx(14/05,6502m)
accidents: None
agency: Rover Treks
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at normal site
  C2 at normal site in snowholes
  High point at 6500m at top of Dutch Rib.

  They spent 3 weeks on the N Face, making C1 and C2 in snowholes and pitching C3 at 6500m at the top of the Dutch Rib on 9th May. C3 was stocked during the following few days (9-12 May), but it was never slept in. 13th Duff and 3 went up with personal gear to C2 and 14th to C3. On 14th May, when Duff, Woodall, Nowack and Gray tried to move above C3, just a meter or 2 above the camp they got onto a serac barrier that was extremely broken and dangerous. It would have been safe enough, Duff felt, for 2 people going up and down once, but some of the team's client members were not sufficiently experienced for a rapid ascent. It would have been necessary to fix the rope to 1 more camp, thus requiring 20 passes through the barrier; this would have been unacceptably dangerous (and bad for business - members were paying clients). So the climb was abandoned. Snowholes very good idea for C2. All members reached C3 as did both Sherpas, but it was never slept in.


expid: ANNS91301
peakid: ANNS
year: 1991
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yoshio Matsunaga
sponsor: Shizuoka Mt. Party Society of Nepal Himalaya 1991 to ANNS
ascent1: 10th
bcdate: 1991-09-27
smtdate: 1991-10-22
termdate: 1991-10-26
campsites: BC(27/09,4800m),C1(03/10,5770m),C2(09/10,5700m),C3(19/10,6400m),Smt(22/10)
accidents: Nothing very serious but 2 members with some altitude problems
agency: Himalayan Journeys
routememo:
  BC east of beginning of SW Ridge
  C1 below ridge
  C2 on SW Ridge
  C3 on SW Ridge.

  Only 1 summit attack: others in no good condition. Ridge mixed snow and rock; difficult because right side, left side ice and wind blowing. Left BC 26 Oct. 10th ascent.


expid: DHA191304
peakid: DHA1
year: 1991
route1: NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Philippe Le Balch
sponsor: TDF Expedition 8000 to Dhaulagiri I
bcdate: 1991-09-17
smtdate: 1991-10-06
termdate: 1991-10-07
termnote: Abandoned at 8130m due to lateness in the day
campsites: BC(17/09,4800m),C1(20/09,5000m),C2(21/09,5800m),C3(01/10,6800m),C4(04/10,7550m),xxx(06/10,8130m)
accidents: No serious frostbite
agency: Sherpa Society
routememo:
  BC 100m apart from other French Dhaulagiri team on glacier
  C2 at North Col
  C3 in NE Ridge crevasse
  C4 on NE Ridge rocks
  High point at 30m below top.

  Didn't reach exactly on summit but stopped 30m below it: stopped to make photos for sponsor which took 1 hr, so decided not to go to top because wind rising and wanted to be back in camp before dark. Slept in C4 for 3rd night; now all down: before all 6 members reached 7100m and 2 Sherpas with Le Balch and Imbert to C4. 

  4 went down at 7100m because too tired to go on up. 1 Sherpa started for top on 6th but did not reach members high-point because too cold. Now climb finished.

  Le Balch has slight frostbitten toes and reached C2 only on 11th; boots too tight. Big problem for him to walk and came to KTM before rest of team, who went trekking.


expid: DHA191305
peakid: DHA1
year: 1991
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Wanda Rutkiewicz
sponsor: Caravan to Dream 8000 x 8 - to Dhaulagiri
countries: Austria
bcdate: 1991-10-05
smtdate: 1991-10-15
termdate: 1991-11-04
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m
campsites: BC(05/10,4730m),C1(09/10,5780m),C2(14/10,6780m),xxx(28/10,7100m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal BC area
  C1 at NE Col
  C2 on NE Ridge
  High point near to NE Ridge.

  2 members reached 7100m in work to prepare route for Wanda R.; at 7400m was Japanese camp which Poles were permitted to use. On 15th very strong wind, 18-20 degrees cloudy and snowing, so left tent and full range of gear there at 7100m and down to C2 and next day to C1. Then all to BC waiting for Wanda, who was expected to arrive 20 Oct or there after. Malinowski went to Marpha and Jomsom to enquire from KTM about Wanda's whereabouts. Now every afternoon snowing, cloudy and winter temperatures had set in and life at BC difficult. With continuous snowfall feared impossible or very expensive to get porters to evacuate loads via passes. Also getting time to return to Kathmandu to organize winter Manaslu expedition. On 28th Gasienica-Jozkowy to depot and brought it down. Left BC 31 Oct and met Wanda at Marpha. Jedlinski left BC 4 Nov with porters with loads. Wanda and Gasienica-Jozkowy went to BC.

  Wanda arrived at BC 7 Nov, day after all had left BC, including BC staff; had had no news of Wanda, who was due to arrive on 20 Oct and if had not evacuated equipment then, all would have been lost because one week later porters could not cross passes. One member had expected to go back with her to Dhaulagiri: she met party at Marpha on 2nd and took time to organize return to BC. After arrived at BC, on 8th snow began following and continued with heavy snowfall on 10th, and would jeopardize Manaslu and left BC 11 Nov, reached Marpha only on 14th with 3 bivs.


expid: DHA191302
peakid: DHA1
year: 1991
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hitoshi Onodera
sponsor: Showa Alpine Club Dhaulagiri Expedition
ascent1: 52nd
bcdate: 1991-09-08
smtdate: 1991-10-11
termdate: 1991-10-23
campsites: BC(08/09,4700m),C1(22/09,5700m),C2(29/09,6450m),C3(07/10,7200m),C4(09/10,7500m),Smt(11/10)
accidents: Nakajima and Keepa Sherpa slight frostbitten toes; Yoneda injured fingers from rockfall but now OK
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at North Col
  C2 on NE Ridge
  C3 on NE Ridge
  C4 on NE Ridge.

  1st summit attack succeeded and then weather deteriorated (snowfall, strong winds) so had to give up. Left BC 23rd Oct after 2nd attack 11-18 Oct; but 2 attack parties got no higher than C3.


expid: DHA191303
peakid: DHA1
year: 1991
route1: E Face (to 5750m)
route2: NE Ridge (to 8000m)
nation: Japan
leaders: Yuka Endo
sponsor: Yeti Dojin Dhaulagiri Expedition
approach: Kali Gandaki->Saking->W from Saking along Ridge
bcdate: 1991-09-10
smtdate: 1991-10-15
termdate: 1991-10-30
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to strong winds
campsites: BC(10/09,4200m),BC2(25/09,4700m),C1(02/10,5750m),C2(06/10,6800m),C3(14/10,7600m),xxx(15/10,8000m)
accidents: Both Endos slightly frostbitten toes
agency: Himalayan Journeys
routememo:
  1st BC to East Dhaulagiri Glacier, southsast of point 6014m on Japanese map
  C1 at NE Col
  High point on NE Ridge.

  From 1st BC climbed icefall but steep and dangerous. Climbed 1 day in icefall, then decided too dangerous with rainfall daily: reached 4500m and returned. Then moved BC to normal site from E Face ascent from there and 3rd Oct looked at face which had no snow; this not good: water falling down face. 

  Went on to east at same altitude as col to see face and decided not to go onto face; climbed NE Ridge. 15th Oct 1st summit bid made by both Endos and a Sherpa reached about 8000m in five days but very strong south wind and Endos down to C3, Ang Phurba to C1. 

  2nd bid up from BC 22nd Oct 24th, reached C3 but again strong wind and down on 25th and climbing finished. 

  Other 3 members to C1 only. Left BC 30th Oct. Ridge not technically difficult.


expid: DHA191301
peakid: DHA1
year: 1991
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Xavier Gonzalez
sponsor: Dhawala 1991 to Dhaulagiri I
ascent1: 51st
bcdate: 1991-08-22
smtdate: 1991-10-02
smttime: 1445
campsites: BC(22/08,4700m),C1(08/09,5700m),C2(15/09,6700m),C3(25/09,7400m),Smt(02/10)
accidents: Canameras accident in icefall; Pruna edema at C1 Sep 8
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at Col
  C2 at NE Ridge.

  31st Aug accident in icefall: Canameras fell into crevasse when unclipping from one fixed rope to clip another one; fell 8m and both arms and one shoulder injured so he and Soler left BC 6th Sept with porters carrying him. 

  Only 1 summit attempt by remaining 3 members: Corominas, who left C3 2 am (Gonzalez left C3 at 8 am but turned back at 7800m because strong wind) could reach summit but needed a bivouac: delayed departure at 2 am because wind and very cold and expects French climbers to go up after couple of hours and French changed his mind). Corominas reached summit at 2:45 pm, so slow because of winds and snow 25 cm deep so trail-making slow; returned C3 at 6 pm. Were only 2 climbers after C1 because of Pruna's edema.


expid: DHA191306
peakid: DHA1
year: 1991
route1: NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Roger Laot
sponsor: Expedition Mountain of Winds to Dhaulagiri I
bcdate: 1991-09-15
smtdate: 1991-10-02
termdate: 1991-10-06
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to team exhausted
campsites: BC(15/09,4700m),C1(22/09,5000m),C2(23/09,5800m),C3(26/09,6700m),C4(30/09,7400m),xxx(02/10,7800m)
accidents: None
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C2 at NE Col
  C3 on NE Ridge
  High point at NE Ridge.

  Laot alone from C4 2nd Oct and reached 7800m; tired, strong wind and very cold, so turned back to C3. By now others also tried or slightly sick so climb finished. 5 all in BC and left 6th.


expid: TUKU91302
peakid: TUKU
year: 1991
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Takashi Ito
sponsor: 1991 Morioka Alpine Club Expedition to Tukuche Peak
ascent1: 16th
approach: Dhampus Pass
bcdate: 1991-09-26
smtdate: 1991-10-04
campsites: BC(26/09,5000m),C1(01/10,6000m),Smt(04/10)
accidents: None
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC east of point 5087m, beginning of ridge east of French Pass by a junction of NW Ridge and ridge to point 6829m.

  Did not fix any ropes so others did not make summit attempt because route difficult towards top. Were many crevasses near junction and 200m below top hidden crevasse on summit pair climbed roped together and belayed each other.


expid: PUTH91301
peakid: PUTH
year: 1991
route1: W Ridge from S
nation: Germany
leaders: Heinrich Buhr
sponsor: Putha Hiunchuli Expedition 1991
bcdate: 1991-10-15
smtdate: 1991-10-20
termdate: 1991-10-23
termnote: Abandoned at 5300m due to lack of rope
campsites: BC(15/10,4700m),C1(18/10,5000m),C2(20/10,5300m),xxx(20/10,5300m),xxx(20/10,5300m)
accidents: None
routememo:
  BC near glacier southwest of mountain headwaters of south branch of Dogari Khola.
  C1 on rock between 2 ridges running south from point 5395 on Japanese map.
  C2 on ice slope north-northwest of C1.

  Intended to put C2 at 5500m but ran out of rope before reaching this height and camped at 5300m. Did not dare to go on because very steep ice, too dangerous to continue without fixing rope here. Climb finished. Not enough time to try another approach. Descended on 21st: Dawa Temba to BC, Buhr and Dawa Norbu to C1. All in BC 22nd and left BC 23rd. Excellent weather.

  Were trying to get onto Putha Hiunchuli's W Ridge from south, which meant crossing several ridges. They did not reach the W Ridge.


expid: TUKU91301
peakid: TUKU
year: 1991
route1: NW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jean Moatti
sponsor: CAF Samoens Expedition to Tukuche and Dhampus
ascent1: 15th
bcdate: 1991-09-16
smtdate: 1991-09-28
othersmts: Climbed Dhampus Peak (DHAM-913-01)
campsites: BC(16/09,5050m),C1(23/09,6100m),Smt(28/09)
accidents: Fournier altitude sickness (started BC 5 days & left expedition)
agency: Numbur Himal Treks
routememo:
  1st BC at East Dhaulagiri Glacier southeast of point 6014m on Japanese map
  C1  at NE Col
  High point at NE Ridge.

  Only 1 member on top: Delerce and Nawang started from C1 with successful climbers but turned back at 6400m because Delerce "feels bad" with headache, etc. 

  1 Oct Moatti, Huglin, Delerce, Coffy and Bravard and 2 Sherpas leave C1 but too much wind and cold and give up only 100m above C1. Tukuche climb finished.


expid: TRIP91301
peakid: TRIP
year: 1991
route1: S Buttress to S Smt
nation: UK
leaders: Doug Scott
sponsor: British Kanjiroba Himal Expedition
ascent1: 1st of S Smt
countries: India
approach: Baglung (by air)->BC
bcdate: 1991-10-24
smtdate: 1991-10-28
smttime: 1600
othersmts: Hanging Valley by Scott, Wallace and McMahon on 23 Oct
campsites: BC(24/10,4000m),C1(25/10,4800m),C2(26/10,5200m),S-Smt(28/10,6444m)
accidents: None
achievment: 1st ascent of South Summit
agency: Nepal Trek House
routememo:
  S Buttress 500m so rock grade 4.5, then 800m snow-ice. Entire route was French T.D. 28th climbed it & had bitterly cold (-25 degrees) biv on rock without sleepimg bags. Cullen in support in C2. Reached top of South Summit at 4 pm after having left C1 at about 6:00 am. On 29th reached BC at 2:00 pm.


expid: GANG91301
peakid: GANG
year: 1991
route1: NW Spur-NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Hans Rauner
sponsor: Swiss Gangapurna Expedition
bcdate: 1991-10-09
smtdate: 1991-10-23
termdate: 1991-10-25
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to unstable soft snow ahead
campsites: BC(09/10,4900m),C1(19/10,5500m),C2(21/10,6500m),xxx(23/10,7200m)
accidents: Steiner had bad headache at C1 and never went higher
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC southwest of Manang and northeast of start of North Ridge
  C1 at start of spur to North Ridge
  C2 on spur.

  Saw from 7200m that above them on summit ridge were big snow mushrooms, cornices and left unstable snow so turned back. Not really sure what spur/ridge they were on but think they were on spur to North Ridge.

  Left BC 25 Oct.


expid: ANN391301
peakid: ANN3
year: 1991
route1: SE Pillar
nation: USA
leaders: William Bancroft
sponsor: 1991 American Annapurna III Expedition
approach: Seti Khola
bcdate: 1991-09-07
smtdate: 1991-09-30
termnote: Abandoned at 4730m due to lack of water supply
campsites: BC(07/09,3050m),ABC(19/09,4270m),Biv(29/09,4725m),xxx(30/09,4730m)
accidents: None (except LO's fever)
agency: Nepal Himal
routememo:
  BC  northeast of Machhapuchare (furthest porters would go just below SE Buttress)
  ABC just below SE Buttress
  Biv on ridge linking Annapurna III and IV.

  7-19 Sept spent finding route to ABC and waiting for monsoon rain to end. 19th-29 Sept rest, get more food and gear, and tried to find snow for water but couldn't find on ridge, which was technical rock climbing to fair degree. Taken team's plastic jerry cans intended for carrying water. Rock slightly rotten but no more than Canadian Rockies where they climb a lot.

  When LO had to be escorted out by team's only staff member, BC looted.


expid: GANG91302
peakid: GANG
year: 1991
route1: N Face (to 5900m)
route2: NW Spur-NE Ridge (to 6400m)
nation: Spain
leaders: Francisco Jose Palacios
sponsor: Gangapurna 1991
bcdate: 1991-10-09
smtdate: 1991-10-24
termdate: 1991-10-25
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to dangerous snow conditions reported by Swiss above 7200m
campsites: BC(09/10,4900m),C1(12/10,5200m),C2A(16/10,5600m),C2B(20/10,5500m),xxx(24/10,6400m)
accidents: None
agency: Gorkha Treks
routememo:
  BC same as Swiss this season
  C1 on glacier west of North Ridge
  1st C2 
  2nd C2 at 1 tent beside Swiss C1 (and 1 tent 200m above).

  Porters dumped bags halfway from Samagaon to BC and took a week to get all to BC. First tried to climb Yugoslav 1983 Autumn route via N Face and to put C2 on face, but after 3 days search for a pass through many crevasses and seracs, on 15th found it and pitched C2 on glacier plateau. Route on to face not good: Yugoslav couloir very dangerous rocks and alternative they attempted further to west swept by avalanche so abandoned this face. 

  Decided to try Swiss route this autumn and to do so was necessary to move C2 and began moving gear to C1 and also on snowfield 200m above Swiss C1. 23 Oct 2 members went up to see route above to C3 6400m. 24th Oct reached but same day decided to abandon due to dangerous snow conditions above.

  Climb now abandoned. Left BC 1 day after Swiss; Spaniards themselves say they left on 25th.


expid: ANN391302
peakid: ANN3
year: 1991
route1: NW Ridge from S
nation: Japan
leaders: Morimasa Otani
sponsor: Sapporo Hokuryo Alpine Club Annapurna III Expedition 1991
approach: Madi Khola
bcdate: 1991-09-24
smtdate: 1991-10-13
termdate: 1991-10-16
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to wind and lack of strong manpower
accidents: 1 Sherpa fell in crevasse and cut his face
agency: Cosmo Treks
campsites:
  BC(24/09,3980m),ABC(26/09,4450m),C1(26/09,4800m),C2(02/10,5300m),C3(09/10,5910m),C4(13/10,6800m),xxx(13/10,6800m)

routememo:
  16th Oct planned for summit but wind and dense fog/cloud/white-out preventing seeing way ahead foiled plan. 1 member and 2 Sherpas in C4 on 15th Oct afternoon: on 16th stayed in C4 till afternoon, there weather still bad so down again on 16th. Waited in C3 3 hours, weather still bad so down again on 16th C1. Climb now finished. 

  Saito only member strong enough to climb while others suffering from altitude or head colds.

  Fixed ropes from C1 to C2 where many deep crevasse; route stayed to right of icefall this area under rock wall from which few rocks fell, not dangerous; rest of route to C4 easy.


expid: GLAC91301
peakid: GLAC
year: 1991
route1: S Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Keith Foster
sponsor: British Tarke Kang Expedition 1991
bcdate: 1991-10-12
smtdate: 1991-10-24
termdate: 1991-10-29
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to unsafe rock
campsites: BC(12/10,4700m),C1(19/10,5500m),xxx(24/10,5800m)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  BC at standard Fluted Peak BC east of Fluted Peak on west bank of glacier
  C1 at east bank of glacier, west of south end of South Ridge 
  High point on west side of South Ridge.

  Made C1, down to BC (Wood ill and others not so well either). 

  Started up again. Now only 2 members. On 21st Baqai and Foster to C1. 22nd up and down carrying loads and on 23rd Foster to C1 with doctor. 24th doctor down (climb was too much) and Foster up alone to see how high he could get and to establish C2 at perhaps 6100-6200m. Stopped at 5800m because of rockfall, loose rock with no snow or ice, too slow progress alone and steep route. 

  Left BC 29th Oct. Had descended to BC on 25th.


expid: ANNS91302
peakid: ANNS
year: 1991
route1: SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Andrew Lapkass
sponsor: American Annapurna S Expedition
bcdate: 1991-10-14
smtdate: 1991-10-17
termdate: 1991-10-19
termnote: Abandoned at 5500m due to dangerous route
othersmts: Climbed Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak)
campsites: BC(14/10,4100m),xxx(17/10,5500m)
accidents: Diprima serious altitude sickness before BC; nothing else
agency: Himalayan Treks (Him Treks)
routememo:
  15 Oct organized dump/depot camp at foot of glacier at 4500m and then Annapurna South glacier icefall 16-18 Oct. Left this high point, went across the Tent Peak climbing a bit up it for view of Annapurna South, but couldn't find safe enough route. Icefall was collapsing and big hanging serac walls of Himalchuli and face of Annapurna South's North Ridge. Icefall in center really requires ladders. This was guided climb with clients. 2 fast climbers might make out all right. Stayed on in area climbing Tent Peak and trekking in area after removing fixed rope in icefall and clearing dump camp. Quite safe route once one gets above icefall on to ridge. 

  Could get to ridge in a day if already acclimatized and moving feet and light and if more snow and snow bridges in icefall (was very dry in wind - October).


expid: ANN191308
peakid: ANN1
year: 1991
route1: NW Buttress
nation: Austria
leaders: Hubert Fritzenwallner
sponsor: Salzburg Annapurna I 8091m Expedition 1991
bcdate: 1991-09-25
smtdate: 1991-10-13
termdate: 1991-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6120m due to dangerous snow conditions
accidents: None
agency: Yeti Mountaineering & Trekking
campsites:
  TempBC(22/09,3500m),BC(25/09,4200m),C1(26/09,5000m),C2(30/09,5600m),C3(08/10,6000m),xxx(13/10,6120m)

routememo:
  C2 15 minutes right side of normal C2.
  High point at small rib on North Face.

  Porters went only to Miristi Khola camp (TBC) from which members had had to ferry loads to normal BC. Could not climb on Dutch Rib because rib was covered by hard crust over loose snow. High point was on very steep small rib, very unstable loose snow under crust, very dangerous. Back to C3 on 13th, down to C2 and discuss with other members, all agree too dangerous. 

  All members except Watzke reached C2 during climb; Watzke to C1 only. Big avalanches sent members running from BC on 4 Oct; came from face while eating breakfast and all fixed ropes between C1 and BC taken out. Left BC 17 Oct.


expid: ANN191304
peakid: ANN1
year: 1991
route1: N Face (Dutch Rib)
nation: Japan
leaders: Masaru Otani
sponsor: Hokkaido Central Workers Alpine Federation Annapurna I Exp. 1991
approach: Pokhara->Birstarti->Lete->Myristi Khola
bcdate: 1991-09-10
smtdate: 1991-10-01
termdate: 1991-10-08
termnote: Abandoned at 6450m due to avalanching
campsites: BC(10/09,4200m),ABC(16/09,5100m),C1(18/09,5700m),C2(28/09,6300m),xxx(01/10,6450m)
accidents: None
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at North Annapurna Glacier moraine.

  Climb abandoned following snow avalanche that buried one member at 8:35 am on 1st Oct. He was dug out and not injured. On 3rd at 9:30 am very big snow avalanche hit BC and ABC, many tents broken and equipment lost at BC. Left BC 8th Oct.


expid: ANN191307
peakid: ANN1
year: 1991
route1: S Face (Japanese rte) (to 7350m)
route2: S Face (Bonington rte)
nation: USSR
leaders: Vasili Senatorov
sponsor: First Moscow Expedition to Himalaya - to Annapurna I
ascent2: 28th
bcdate: 1991-09-18
smtdate: 1991-10-26
smttime: 1400
termdate: 1991-10-29
campsites: BC(18/09,4150m),Smt(26/10)
accidents: Egorov and Karpenko seriously injured by falling stone; Shinov serious altitude sickness
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  BC at 1 km south of Polish BCs (near last lodges).

  Had no stationary camps: prepared places for tents, put them up for 2-3 nights and then moved them as he fixed good sections of rope and could move higher; used Polish ABC as their ABC. First tried Japanese route but problems: On Sept 30, Egorov and Karpenko hit by rockfall. Karpenko's leg broken and Egorov's back injured. Rescue/evacuation took 3 days. 

  Shinov on 16th Oct at 7100m on 14th day on wall got altitude sickness and took another 3 days evacuation because as ropes fixed high up, lower ropes removed; after this evacuation 2 members had bad throats. So only 4 strong climbers left but really exhausted as down to BC for rest after 2 weeks on wall but wanted to continue on Japanese route; however decided to climb easier route and Poles agreed OK to use their route (Bonington).

  On 22 Oct these 4 members to ABC at 5000m, 23rd in own tent at 6150m at Poles C1, 24th to 6800m at Polish C2 with own tent. 25th 1:00 am all 4 up to 7300m, without tent (to use C3 Polish tent) and reached 7300m 6:00 am now very cold and stayed in tent. 26th 9:00 am strong wind and still very cold but started up and 2 members on top at 2:00 pm and other 2 about 15 mins later; left summit 3:30 pm (video films raising Russian and Nepalese flags) and descended to Polish C3 at 7:30 pm, moving slowly to kick legs often to increase circulation of blood. 27th down from C3 at 10:00 am and at 6100m late afternoon, very tired. 28th evening arrived BC.

  Senatorov left BC 27th evening. Actually was no BC because on 21st porters had cleared it. Used American Annapurna South BC. 4 summiters left BC 29th with Elagin and Ianotchkine.


expid: ANN191310
peakid: ANN1
year: 1991
route1: W Face up (to 7900m); N Face down
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Slavko Sveticic
sponsor: Zagreb Mountaineering Expedition Annapurna
bcdate: 1991-10-19
smtdate: 1991-11-01
termdate: 1991-11-05
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to route difficulty for solo climber
accidents: Slightly frostbitten big toes
agency: Everest Trekking
campsites:
  BC(19/10,4400m),Biv1(27/10,5100m),Biv2(28/10,6200m),Biv3(29/10,6900m),Biv4(30/10,7300m),Biv5(31/10,7800m),xxx(01/11,7900m)

routememo:
  BC at normal North Face site - same as USSR.

  After base camp established, next day to 5600m on Tilicho on glacier to see Annapurna I West Face ("but could not see area which became 3rd biv site - could see it only from 2nd biv and it was big surprise for me - good surprise - very easy snow field there").

  Returned to BC 21st. 22nd to C2 of USSR on N Face; went with Sherpa and tent and make camp that night. 23rd he up to C3 and then down to C1; up to see how he is performing at altitude ("to test"). 24th to BC. 27th from BC he and sirdar towards bottom of W Face with load: sirdar said glacier too difficult and did not go all the way, but Sveticic goes on and next day reaches bottom of face. Taking mountain tent with him from BC, Sveticic camps alone from evening of 27th; first biv on 27th at 5100m, 2nd and 28th at bottom of W Face at 5450m at 8:00 am and immediately goes onto face in clear weather and pitches tent at 6200m; this section 55 degrees so not easy but snow in good condition; arrived at 6200m at 3:00 pm and slept there that night. Route to this point was not far of big rock fall area. 29th start up at 7:00 pm; this day very difficult climb because snow now replaced by very hard ice; arrived a B2 biv at 5:00 pm at 6400m, where only small area for biv. and slept here for one night. 30th started 9:00 am after night of strong wind and as he climbed wind continued with very strong gusts: this day easy climb but strong wind all day; made biv after climbing snow in good condition at 7300m at 1:00 pm stopped early to have an easy day). 31st "very difficult day for me." Because could not see logical way to go up; went up 100m, search for the way, traverse along snow, and up near and up more; reached 7800m and biv; started this day at 6:30 am and arrived biv. 4 at 6:30 pm: slept here. 1st Nov started again at 9:30 am in strong wind from top; now very tired; fingers and toes to go up again next morning. 2nd Nov too tired and toes still very cold: weather good with no wind: good weather for top but also good weather to go down: "no cloud so possible to see the way"; started down at 6:00 am and reached site C1 on N Face; from biv traversed 300m to normal N Face route and then down, more directly than normal route, to Dutch Rib, down the rib to C1 site, where arrived 10:00 pm (5200m). 3rd Nov down to BC but no camp left. Sirdar, cook and LO had left few hours earlier taking all gears and good food supplies away with them. Sveticic had 3 matches left, made some tea, put petrol he had in bottle he found, put string as wick and kept burning all night and next day so to have cooking possibility. 4th Nov stayed at BC resting (fingers and toes thick now OK) & 5th Nov from BC to Lete where kitchen boy stayed while LO and sirdar gone to Jomsom to send message he is missing. Now on 5th he realizes toes not OK: blistering.

  "Is not finished - I have to go back to do entire climb, made 2 mistakes - should have returned to BC after going to face for next and good food and should have gone up from bottom of W Face with very light load; load he took was too heavy - getting to bottom of West Face was difficult over difficult glacier. Had no problem with altitude - problem just was difficulty." Another mistake: should have radio so others can know where he is.

  "If I can get money, maybe I go to Makalu W Face - first need more training."

  Solo effort on West Face to left of Messner's route lasted from 28 Oct, when Sveticic began ascent of the face, to 1 Nov, when he became too tired to succeed; had taken too heavy a load of supplies with him, he later decided. To 6100m found good snow conditions, but difficult hard ice for next 700m, then easy terrain and good snow but terrible winds to 7200m. From this point "very difficult day for me because I could not see a logical way to go up," had to search for a good line and gained 500m. On final day strong winds continued, his fingers and toes very cold, he was very tired and was now moving very slowly; stopped his ascent at 7900m and returned to bivouac. Next day 2 Nov, he moved down very rapidly in excellent weather and traversed over to normal site of C1 on North Face.


expid: ANN191305
peakid: ANN1
year: 1991
route1: S Face
nation: Poland
leaders: Krzysztof Wielicki
sponsor: Polish International Annapurna Expedition
ascent1: 24th-26th
countries: Belgium, Germany, Portugal, UK
bcdate: 1991-09-11
smtdate: 1991-10-21
smttime: 1130
termdate: 1991-10-26
campsites: BC(11/09,4100m),ABC(13/09,4850m),C1(17/09,6100m),C2(04/10,6800m),C3(11/10,7300m),Smt(21-23/10)
accidents: Patynowska very weak; not edema but perhaps climb too difficult and lost much weight
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC same as other Polish expedition
  C2 same as Jarosz (and Chamoux).

  This team fixed all ropes for both team except (Perrina from other Polish team, who worked all the time with this team - was the only strong climber except Denamur from other team). Very difficult sections with overhangs at 7200-7300m. Great respect for Bonington team, whose route followed to C1, then variations of Chamoux and their own. Problem of hard ice and falling stones. 20th Oct early night Wielicki to C2, reached C3 where Stefko was already. Stefko left C3 at 4:30 am, 21st and Wielicki at 6:00 am and went on top at 11:30 am and Stefko at 11:50 am, having met other team's member in his descent from unsuccessful attempt. Left top 12:00 and returned to C1 in full moonlight. 

  2nd summit party (who did not really climb together) left camp 22nd early morning (Pawlowski 4:00 am, Schleypen at 3:00 am and Wanda at 6:00 am); [after summiting] Pawlowski to C2, Schleypen stopped above C3 and Wanda Rutkiewicz made biv at 7700m on summit ridge. 

  23rd Valez, Baeyens and Sprutta to top also from C3.


expid: ANN191303
peakid: ANN1
year: 1991
route1: N Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Albino Quinteiro
sponsor: Galicia Himalaya 8000 - to Annapurna I
bcdate: 1991-09-06
smtdate: 1991-09-19
termdate: 1991-09-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to avalanching
campsites: BC(06/09,4300m),C1(09/09,5050m),C2(13/09,5600m),xxx(19/09,6300m)
accidents: Banet pulmonary edema (returned to Kathmandu & later to BC)
agency: Pabil Treks
routememo:
  BC at normal site.

  Deposited supplies for C3 at its site in cave, but when Americans returned, all gone in avalanching. Big avalanche hit C1 from east summit & broke all tents on 14th Sept. C2 in caves & avalanches came over but no danger. Lost much food in C3 cache. On 22nd Sept Spanish tried to reach it but did not get high and decided too much avalanche danger with 3 avalanches that day.


expid: TILI91302
peakid: TILI
year: 1991
route1: NE Spur-N Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Christian Sounier
sponsor: Tilicho Peak Alpes d'Azur
ascent1: 18th
bcdate: 1991-10-01
smtdate: 1991-10-08
termdate: 1991-10-17
campsites: BC(01/10,5000m),C1(02/10,5800m),C2(04/10,6200m),Smt(08/10)
accidents: None
agency: Tip & Top Trekking
routememo:
  After 8th Oct some new snow, cloudy and wind. Stopped at 6900m on 14th Oct in 2nd summit bid that day by two summit teams and climb finished. Sounier up to clear camps only after that. Left 17th Oct.


expid: ANN191302
peakid: ANN1
year: 1991
route1: N Face (Dutch Rib)
nation: USA
leaders: Matthew Culberson
sponsor: American Annapurna Expedition
bcdate: 1991-08-28
smtdate: 1991-09-18
termdate: 1991-09-27
termnote: Abandoned at 7285m due to unstable snow conditions
campsites: BC(28/08,4450m),C1(02/09,5100m),C2(05/09,5800m),C3(14/09,6580m),C4(18/09,7285m),xxx(18/09,7285m)
accidents: None
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C3 above Dutch Rib - above normal site at safer spot.

  Planned to go to summit on 20th after rest day at C4. Avalanche fatal to Koreans on 19th partially buried Culbersons in their tent. Americans had dug out base of serac, which protected them from full fury of avalanche. US members at C3 helped dig out Korean & Sherpa bodies which were near C3. 3 US members at C4 left at 4 pm & went down to C2 & then all down to BC for 3 days. Few days later went C3 but still looked unstable & wind had picked up and was causing slab avalanche. Big avalanche hit C1 in mid-Sept and wind blew tent with one member (Fay Johnson) in it uphill and tore tents; one member buried.


expid: TILI91301
peakid: TILI
year: 1991
route1: NE Spur-N Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Karl Kobler
sponsor: Swiss University Bern Tilicho Expedition
ascent1: 14th-17th
countries: Poland
bcdate: 1991-09-17
smtdate: 1991-09-29
campsites: BC(17/09,4950m),C1(21/09,5800m),C2(27/09,6200m),Smt(29-30/09,01-02/10)
accidents: None
agency: Dhaulagiri Trek House
routememo:
  BC at northwest corner of lake.

  Fixed 1300m rope from below C1 to C2 and left for French. Not so much snow on route.


expid: ANN191306
peakid: ANN1
year: 1991
route1: S Face (Bonington rte)
nation: Poland
leaders: Mieczyslaw Jarosz
sponsor: Polish International Expedition to Annapurna I
ascent1: 23rd
countries: Belgium, Czechoslovakia, Italy
bcdate: 1991-09-12
smtdate: 1991-10-20
othersmts: Climbed Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak) (one member)
campsites: BC(12/09,4200m),ABC(15/09,4900m),C1(17/09,6100m),C2(21/09,6800m),C3(10/10,7300m),Smt(20/10)
accidents: Stepien beginning frostbite (not serious)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Bulgarian BC north of Machhapuchhare BC, just south of Tent Peak.

  After 21 Sept strong wind and fixed ropes in couloir cut twice by falling ice or stone in 55-60 degree couloir. From C1 to C2 very complicated mixed snow, ice and rock. Between C1 and C3 very hard rock. Had permit for Polish route but changed because of falling stone and ice and leads to middle summit. Even glacier complicated with many stones requiring zizag route towards ABC. Fixed total 3000m. 

  1st summit party Denamur and Stepien left C3 6:00 am 20 Oct; Stepien feet beginning to freeze at 7500m and returned to C2; Denamur continued to summit alone and without walkie-talkie; his footprints seen by Wielicki of other Polish expedition when he reached summit late morning of 21st, thus Denamur reached summit during night or early 21st morning and then footprints showed descent of North Face (he had taken plenty of food, gas, feather jacket and biv sack without previous notice). When expedition left BC 20-30 Oct he had not reappeared. No more in summit attempts because food supplies finished. Had planned to stay at BC only till 20th or latest 23rd. Did not sent anyone to look for Denamur, but if no word of him by 1st Nov may send helicopter for rescue/search. There are other teams on North Face.


  Wiliecki

  Denamur and Stepien were sent up to clear their C2 (C3 was Wielicki) but went on up to C3 without permission of Wielicki. There was no contact with them for 3 days from 18th morning, when they radioed from C2 they didn't know where they were going today; they actually went to C3 that afternoon/evening spent 19th fixing up C3, 19th night started for top but after 1-2 hours returned to C3 because cold. 20th Stepien started up at midday, Lowas after Denamur and never saw Denamur that day; got dark, Stepien lost the trail above so made biv at 7700m, hoped to resume ascent next day but in morning of 21st (had frosbitten toes) and met in his descent at 9:00 am by Wielicki; he was very strong but mentally confused. (Wielicki talked with him in detail). Denamur did not take extra provisions, according to Stepien. Expedition knew Denamur missing on 21st from Wielicki but sent no search to north side.

  Senatorov, USSR South Face leader on 3 Nov: Jarosz left member with frostbitten toes behind when Jarosz left BC. Member was cared for Senatorov and Wielicki teams.

  Cherny, USSR North Face summiter on 24 Oct: He and Arsentiev saw no trace whatsoever of Denamur - no new ice axe, no rucksack, no body, nothing. Any tracks would be blown away in 2-3 hours by wind. 20th and 21st very clear days and leader and Arsentiev's US girl friend watched with binoculars for movement high on mountain and saw nothing.

  Arsentiev on 15 Nov: On 23 Oct he saw 2 people on summit. They did not descend north side. On 20 Oct at summit he found 2 Polish coins on the snow and brought them back; they had been left there on 23rd, he has been told by Wielicki. He saw nothing else anywhere on North Face except 2 old ice axes, which he and Cherny used because their own had been lost. There was a huge fall of ice above C4 on 23rd.

  Slava Sveticic, Yugoslav on West Face on 15 Nov: On 3 Nov found raised footprints on snow from bottom of a couloir at about 7900m during his traverse eastwards to normal route, which he descended. They were in an area where no climbers go.


  Statement signed by Jaros about 5 Nov 1991
  (in Ministry of Tourism files)

  The 20 Oct 91 about 6 H in the morning Gabriel Denamur from Belgium started from C2 South Face (7300m) climbing solo on the top. He took no tent, sleeping bag, stove gas and did not came back to the C3.

  Next day 21 Oct 91 started from C3 two members from another expedition from Poland led by Krzysztof Wielicki saw fresh foot marks of Gabriel Denamur which had crossed summit and gone towards north side.

  The 20 Oct 91 in the north side two Russian members Cherny and Glushkovski staying in C3 (6450m). Next day 21.10 they continued climbing in alpine style C4 6900m, C5 (7300m) 22.10 bivouac 23.10 (7900m) visibility was very good, fine weather. 24.10 reached on the top about 10 H and nothing saw.

  In C1 (5000m) since the 20.10-25.10 Sergei Arsentiev leader of Russian team waiting and looking by binoculars north side summit and climber team and nothing saw also.

  From south side reaching on the top since then Gabriel reached on the top until 23.10.91 another members and nothing saw also.

  Since then we haven't news from Gabriel Denamur. Gabi missing 20.10.91


expid: ANN191309
peakid: ANN1
year: 1991
route1: N Face (Dutch Rib)
nation: USSR
leaders: Alexander Glushkovski
sponsor: Vistonik Annapurna Expedition
ascent1: 27th
countries: USA
bcdate: 1991-10-08
smtdate: 1991-10-24
smttime: 1100
termdate: 1991-10-30
accidents: None except Cherny slightly frostbitten fingers
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
campsites:
  BC(08/10,4400m),C1(15/10,5200m),C2(10/10,5800m),C3(13/10,6450m),Biv1(21/10,6900m),Biv2(22/10,7300m),Biv3(23/10,7870m),Smt(24/10)

routememo:
  C1  at site usually used by 2 climbers (mostly by leader as his ABC)
  C3  at top Dutch Rib
  Biv on col between middle and main summits.

  Started from BC 19th to C2 but camp broken so to C1 and then 20th up to C3. 21st made 1st of 3 bivouacs; left 24th at 10 am and on summit 1 hour later. Very windy so footprints blown quickly away; 1 hour on top then descended to 7300m. 25th down to C1 descending in dark to reach C1; BC on 26th morning. Cherny left BC 28th because slight frostbite fingers and wanted lower altitude; other 2 left BC 30th with porters.

  Saw no sign whatsoever of Denamur; found no new ice ax, no rucksack, no body, nothing; any track blown quickly (2-3 hrs). On 20th and 21st very clear and from C1 leader and Arsentiev's US girl friend watching with binoculars high on mountain and they saw no one.


expid: ANN191301
peakid: ANN1
year: 1991
route1: N Face (Dutch Rib)
nation: S Korea
leaders: Ko Yong-Chul
sponsor: 1991 Annapurna I Inchon Expedition
bcdate: 1991-08-20
smtdate: 1991-09-19
termdate: 1991-09-22
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to fatal avalanche
campsites: BC(20/08,4300m),ABC(25/08,5000m),C1(27/08,5600m),C2(07/09,6300m),C3(17/09,6850m),xxx(19/09,7500m)
accidents: Ko high blood pressure so stayed most of the expedition at Leyte; fatal avalanche
agency: Sallyan
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at normal site
  C2 at top of Dutch Rib
  C3 on North Face
  High point on North Face.

  C4 intended for 7600m but on 19th Sept reached 7500m when big slab avalanche started from above those moving up and carried them 1000m down mountain; 2 members and 6 Sherpas carried down but 2 only 300m (Norbu Tagby injured in lower left leg, Sonam Tshering uninjured). Bae Seung-Youl was at C3. 1 member was alive and Americans gave mouth-to-mouth resucitation but he soon died of internal injuries. Lee Seong-Jee killed instantly as were 4 Sherpas: Jangbu (body not found), Dawa Sange (Everest 1990 summit), Lhakpa Tendi and Tenzing; bodies, covered by deep snow by Bae and left on avalanching slope.

  Climbing ceased and left BC 22nd Sept. Made route for other teams. 2 other big snow avalanches 11th Sept; broke tents at C2 and 15th ABC hit - 3 tents taken away. In both cases hit by winds from avalanche no one hurt.

  Leader intends to lead another team to Annapurna I next year to finish climb started by those who were killed.


  Matt and Julie Culberson - 7 Oct 1991

  Koreans never did any lead climbing, made Sherpas do it all, pushed Sherpas to climb where and when they (Sherpas) thought it dangerous, denounced Sherpas as lazy.

  Americans put in some rope for Koreans.


expid: MANA91301
peakid: MANA
year: 1991
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Antoni Llasera
sponsor: Catalan Manaslu Expedition
bcdate: 1991-09-14
smtdate: 1991-10-06
termdate: 1991-10-10
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to snow, wind, exhaustion, and lack of time
campsites: BC(14/09,4800m),C1(20/09,5700m),C2(23/09,6500m),C3(30/09,6900m),C4(05/10,7500m),xxx(06/10,7900m)
accidents: Antoni Llasera, Frederic Puig and Joan Vila hit by slab avalanche on Sep 26, slightly injured
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  BC at normal site for C1 (Swiss and Italians BC here this autumn)
  C1 Naike Col
  C3 at North Col
  C4 on NE Ridge.

  Bayona and Belmonte tried for summit on 6th Oct from C4 and reached 7900m; snow knee-deep so very tired (and tired from previous day's climb to ridge and not good sleep that night). So down to C2 on 6th. 

  Another summit party reached only C3 on 7th Oct, but very strong winds so down to C2 on 8th and stayed there till 10th, when snowfall and wind sent them down to BC and climb finished. 

  Now expedition had not enough time to wait for better weather, very tired and 3 members avalanched on 26 Sept not summit material afterwards.


expid: MANA91303
peakid: MANA
year: 1991
route1: S Face
nation: USA
leaders: Austin Weiss
sponsor: American Manaslu Expedition
bcdate: 1991-09-19
smtdate: 1991-10-22
termdate: 1991-10-23
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to exhaustion
accidents: Dobkin altitude sickness; Weiss pneumonia and lung problem
agency: Tawache
campsites:
  BC(19/09,4600m),ABC(21/09,5180m),C1(23/09,5200m),C2(30/09,5700m),C3(04/10,6600m),C4(21/10,7300m),xxx(22/10,7800m)

routememo:
  Climbed alpine-style from C3 having descended to BC for rest. 21st pushed up from C3. 22nd Graham and Selland to 7800m and turned back: wanted to put C4 higher, followed a ridge to a false summit was where should have gone but one man getting sick and both exhausted so back to C4. Weiss had gotten almost to C4 but had pneumonia or some lung problem and had gone down to C3. Others not now in condition to go up so climb finished. Very long route and with no Sherpa support (even cooking done by Americans). Sherpas stayed at low BC because exhausted by time for strong summit bid. Should have had more rest days earlier in climb. "Incredibly safe route for an 8000m peak." Had beautiful weather.


expid: KGUR91301
peakid: KGUR
year: 1991
route1: W Face-NW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Giancarlo Contalbrigo
sponsor: Kang Guru Expedition
ascent1: 12th
approach: Nar Khola
bcdate: 1991-10-04
smtdate: 1991-10-21
smttime: 1030
termdate: 1991-10-24
campsites: BC(04/10,3650m),C1(07/10,4900m),C2(11/10,5600m),C3(20/10,6100m),Smt(21/10)
accidents: None
agency: Trekking International
routememo:
  BC at Meta (deserted village)
  C1 at bottom of small SW Ridge to Pt 6981m on Round Annapurna map
  C2 on West Face before Pt 6981m between 2 ridges
  C3 directly below NW Ridge leading to Pt 6981m.

  From C1 climbed face between SW & NW Ridges leading to point 6981 (summit) on Round Annapurna map: W Face to NW Ridge. All 5 members went to C3 on 20th but Dal Santo not well enough on 21st to go top (not altitude problem) so descended instead. We are very happy because we are not professionals but climb for pleasure. Summit party started up from C3 at 3:30 am on 21st and were on top at 10:30 am, spent 30 minutes on summit and down to C2. Next day in BC 22nd. Left BC 24th.


expid: CHEO91301
peakid: CHEO
year: 1991
route1: S Face-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Masanobu Okazaki, Gupta Bahadur Rana
sponsor: Nepal Police-Imari Japan Joint Expedition to Cheo Himal 1991
ascent1: 1st
countries: Nepal
approach: Dudh Khola->Bhimtang->Tanbuche
bcdate: 1991-09-08
smtdate: 1991-10-13
campsites: BC(08/09,4200m),C1(25/09,4800m),C2(30/09,5580m),C3(06/10,5770m),C4(09/10,6000m),Smt(13/10)
accidents: Nishioka leg injured by falling rock on S Face from Pt 6700m
agency: Jai Himal Trekking
routememo:
  BC 2 hours beyond Birstange, north of Pangal
  C1 on rock face of south-southeast ridge running from Himlung past Panbari
  C2 at top of this rock face
  C3 at snowfield east of point 6341m
  C4 at north end of snowfield.

  Could see mountain from BC. Himlung and Panbari Himal spent 10 days trying to find on east side of big icefall which is below east side of ridge running SSE from Himlung past Panbari Himal. Finally made route to west side of icefall on rock face of east side of this ridge; rock falling from face hit most Nepalis and Imoto, but not seriously hurt. From C2 down 200m on snow face into N end of icefall and northwards to snowfield east of point 6341 of KMTNC Annapurna area map. Tried twice to go to top from C3 but too tired and made C4 towards end of snowfield. Rockfall again down face of 6700m at 2:30 pm, turned back because had no ropes and too late to finish climb in daylight. 

  13th Oct 1st summit team started at 5:00 am, Phul Bahadur and Dambar at 6:00 am and 2 Japanese and 3 Nepalis at 6:30 am; had decided anyone reached point 6700m before 1:00 pm could continue to top and 1st party at 9:00 am here and 2nd 11:30 am, 3rd group at 2:00 pm and descended from here; summiters slept in C4 which reached together (2 parties - 1st waited at top for 2nd party) 4:30-5:00 pm 13th while 3rd party at 7:00 pm. Fixed 7-9 ropes on final ridge, 22 ropes C4 to ridge; total 55-60 ropes (each rope 45m).

  14 Nov 1991 - Al Burgess, leader of British attempt on Cheo, is confident this expedition climbed right mountain. 

  Expedition's altimiter showed summit to be 7080m high which is 260m higher than official altitude.


expid: BHRI91302
peakid: BHRI
year: 1991
route1: SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Bertrand Doligez
sponsor: Allibert Bhrikuti Expedition
ascent1: 5th
bcdate: 1991-10-31
smtdate: 1991-11-03
termdate: 1991-11-05
campsites: BC(31/10,4700m),C1(02/11,4900m),Smt(03/11)
accidents: Nothing (Thevenins slight altitude sickness at BC only)
agency: Sherpa Society
routememo:
  BC as same place as British
  C1 as same place as British.

  Did not climb from W because this ridge became a face and leads to another valley. Followed British route: have long way to high camp into another valley. Took one British Sherpa and followed their climb. Returned BC 4 Nov and left BC 5 Nov.


expid: BHRI91301
peakid: BHRI
year: 1991
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Elaine Brook
sponsor: British Bhrikuti Expedition
ascent1: 4th
approach: Kagbeni->Tange->Chuksam
bcdate: 1991-10-20
smtdate: 1991-10-22
smttime: 0745
campsites: BC(20/10,5000m),ABC(20/10,5300m),C1(21/10,6100m),Smt(22/10)
accidents: None on mountain (all foreigners and Ang Kitar had altitude problems)
agency: Sherpa Society
routememo:
  BC  just east of Damodar Kunde
  ABC northeast of BC
  C1  at steep sand/gravel dose at bottom of icefall.

  All foreigners except Edward Odell, the team doctor, stayed at BC throughout climb because felt effects of altitude. Team mad trekked from Pokhara 8th Oct, from Jomsom 15th Oct. 20th Lhakpa, Ang Kitar, Ang Jangbu and E Odell left BC and reached ABC at 5:30 pm. From BC to ABC terrain is wide steep sloping desert sand/gravel. 21st Oct Odell stayed at ABC while 3 Sherpas went on up and camped under icefall at 20,000 ft. Left ABC 2:30 am and reached C1 at 3:00 pm. 22nd Oct 3 Sherpas left C1 at 2:00 am and on top at 7:45 am. Climbed icefall in 2 hrs fixing rope here to top of icefall at 20,500 ft. From icefall snow and ice ridges very steep - no avalanches but very strong wind. Returned to BC at 7:00 pm. Fixed rope on final 200m to summit because it was windy on sharp rock ridges; this only rope fixed. 5 clients had thought in KTM they would climb but Sherpas were so much more energetic than they were in BC, they felt exploration was enough.

  BC and its lake are over two 17,000 ft passes from last camp at Gurrnatanti and very rocky taking porters as far as lake because heavy snowstorm could block passes.


  Bhrikuti (6364m)

  A British-Nepalese joint team, led by Elaine Brook and co-led by Lhakpa Sherpa, claimed that they made the first ascent of this peak by the SE Ridge on Oct 22, 1991. Three Sherpas (Lhakpa, Ang Zangbu and Ang Kitar) reportedly reached the summit at that time. However, when the HAJ (Himalayan Association of Japan) and the Tribhuvan Univ. Joint team first challenged this peak in 1982 Spring; they climbed all high peaks comprising main range. This fact is apparently denying above British claim [of 1st ascent]. The HAJ-Nepal joint team approached Bhrikuti, believed to be 6720m at that time and placed BC on NW Face via Dae village.


expid: NUMB91301
peakid: NUMB
year: 1991
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Mathias Rau
sponsor: German Numbur Expedition
ascent1: 10th
approach: Junbesi->Basa Drangka->Dudhkunda Khola
bcdate: 1991-10-24
smtdate: 1991-11-07
termdate: 1991-11-11
campsites: BC(24/10,4600m),C1(27/10,5450m),C2(06/11,6000m),Smt(07/11)
accidents: None
achievment: 1st German ascent in 1st German atttempt
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC near lake Yuligolja
  C1 near point 5661m
  C2 on SW Ridge.

  Reached ridge beyond C1 and found Japanese ropes which showed the way along easy rocks. Could have used these ropes "but not necessary, too easy there." From C2 followed left side of ridge to summit. Ridge 55-degrees steepness and climbed this steep part from C2 to top in 6 hrs without loads and without fixing ropes. Fixed no ropes during entire climb. Had strong cold wind on summit day. Left BC 11th Nov and took 4 days (had taken 7-1/2 days from Jiri to BC). Porters said they knew the way but did not and time spent finding correct way (should taken 6-7 days).


expid: LANG91302
peakid: LANG
year: 1991
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: James Grey
sponsor: British Langtang I Expedition
bcdate: 1991-10-16
smtdate: 1991-10-31
termdate: 1991-11-09
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to illness, lack of time, few climbers
campsites: BC(16/10,4000m),C1(29/10,4900m),C2(30/10,5700m),C3(31/10,6100m),xxx(31/10,6100m)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Sherpa Society
routememo:
  BC 30 mins downhill from Japanese in green meadow
  C1 same as Japanese
  C2 above Japanese
  C3 same as Japanese
  High point at C3.

  First climbed several peaks in area including Naya Kanga and Tsergo Ri for acclimatization for alpine-style ascent of Langtang (after this stage Maclean left for home). "With fixed ropes dangling in front of you" therefore hard not to do standard style climb; also route more difficult than expected and team now only 3 men. Turned back at C3. Strong winds and lack of acclimatization and one members gardia and weren't climbing in true alpine-style ("we were climbing on someone else's back"). Climb was "serious" but not too difficult to handle. 1st Nov back to BC and now members got diarrhea in turn (water source had become stagnant pools and though iodine added, perhaps this the cause). By 5 Nov realized not enough time to make successful summit bid and walked out via lakes in one-week return to KTM. Timothy Banton and Stephenson made climb of 29-31 Oct; James Grey went to 6000m alone 5 Nov to see how high he could go in one day and returned to BC. Left BC 9 Nov.


expid: MANA91302
peakid: MANA
year: 1991
route1: NE Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Oreste Forno
sponsor: Valsassina Manaslu Expedition
bcdate: 1991-09-16
smtdate: 1991-09-28
termdate: 1991-10-13
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to wind
campsites: BC(16/09,3850m),C1(17/09,4900m),C2(19/09,5600m),C3(22/09,6300m),C4(28/09,7100m),xxx(08/10,7100m)
accidents: None until Oct 9 morning when Forno left; nothing afterwards
agency: Trekking International
routememo:
  BC at lower BC site
  C1 at some team's BC.
  C4 at North Col
  High point at North Col (C4).

  Planned summit bid from C4 on night of 5/6 Oct, but wind made impossible to move up. Forno had taken wrong boots so he descended to C3 while others on C4. Pennati and Ang Thile Sherpa tried to go up with tent to make C5 but after 50m gave up and all down. Forno and Ang Thile down to BC, helping an exhausted Spaniard to get down. Other Italians to C3 on 7th with hope to go up; 2 did go to C4 on 8th (Blanc and Spazzadeschi). 

  9th Forno left BC and all others reported they were descending but Blanc and Spazzadeschi said they wanted to try with Swiss.

  All 9 remaining members left BC 13th Oct. Blanc and Spazzadeschi did want to try for summit bid but reached only C4 and then turned back because of winds. They had arrived at C4 on 8th Oct and stayed there till 12th and down.


expid: MANA91304
peakid: MANA
year: 1991
route1: NE Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Bruno Jelk
sponsor: Zermatt Manaslu Expedition 1991
ascent1: 37th
countries: Austria, Italy, USA
bcdate: 1991-09-25
smtdate: 1991-10-25
smttime: 1155
termdate: 1991-10-31
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Adventure Nepal
campsites:
  BC(25/09,3700m),ABC(27/09,4700m),C1(28/09,5450m),C2(01/10,6150m),C3(09/10,6750m),C4(22/10,7400m),Smt(25/10)

routememo:
  BC at same as Italians (normal BC site).

  Pitched 2 C3s: 1st 6900m on 6 Oct. but had to put it lower because exposed to wind. Now big problem with winds and 3 times reached site of C4; because of winds and ice had to retreat 3 times. 4th time successful with big stones and ropes (170 km/hr/wind). Wind was only real problem: began on 6th Oct and blew all the the time. Summit bids by all who tried to go to C4 were planning to go on to top but 1st 3 groups failed to pitch C4, 4th group set up C4 and slept there one night and then winds drove them down. 5th group were 2 of 5 who made C4; started 0:15 am from C3 on 25th and reached top 11:55 am and down to C3 (one C4 tent had been brought to C3, other C4 tent was destroyed by winds). 26th to BC. On 26th 2 others up to C3 but retreated next day; now snowfall began and was windy. 27th Oct decided climbing finished. Left BC 31 Oct.


expid: LANG91301
peakid: LANG
year: 1991
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Mitsuo Nomura
sponsor: Tochigi Workers Alpine Federation Expedition 1991 Langtang Lirung
bcdate: 1991-10-03
smtdate: 1991-11-03
termdate: 1991-11-10
termnote: Abandoned at 7150m due to deep snow, strong winds and team exhausted
campsites: BC(03/10,4400m),C1(05/10,4900m),C2(09/10,5600m),C3(16/10,6100m),C4(26/10,6550m),xxx(03/11,7150m)
accidents: Muroi serious tooth infection; Nagatsuka nearly blinded from altitude
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at Lirung Glacier, north of Gyalsham Gompa
  C1 at below ridge
  C2 on SE Ridge
  C3 on SE Ridge
  C4 on SE Ridge.

  After C3, Sherpas in "no good condition" to carry loads and only one carried to C4 only once. 26 Oct C4 pitched but slept in; other party arrived C4 on 29th and slept there. 30th made summit attack by Nagatsuka and Yanagihara to 6900m. Then Nagatsuka became blind in both eyes from altitude (could see 30 cm only). Next day his sight Ok after reaching BC 31st at Oct (slept in C4 on 31st).

  2nd attack on 2 Nov from C3 by Nomura and Ogawa. 3 Nov 4:30 am started from C4 and reached 7150m at 3:00 pm; turned back because too late for summit and safe return. Slow progress that day due to deep snow and strong wind. Returned to C4 to sleep and to C2 next day.

  3rd attack by Ichimura and Oishi who arrived C4 6 Nov to go to top on 7th but on 7th Ichimura and Oishi in "no good condition" and strong wind (Ichimura heavy coughing/sore ribs and Oishi tired), so now climbing finished. 

  6 members had tried for summit, one gone home because his time to be out of Japan finished and other one had serious tooth infection. Between C2 and C2 dangerous from falling stones and when snow is present, avalanching. Route is difficult: sharp ridge with soft snow. Left BC 10 Nov.


expid: CHOY91303
peakid: CHOY
year: 1991
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N (direct)
nation: France
leaders: Hughes Griscelli
sponsor: Cho Oyu 1991
ascent1: 87th,88th,91st
countries: Italy, Poland, Spain
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1991-09-05
smtdate: 1991-09-25
smttime: 1045
accidents: De Leo frostbitten fingers and toes (white); 1 Sherpa altitude sickness
achievment: 1st Polish woman on summit
agency: Trekking International
campsites:
  ChineseBC(07/09,4900m),ABC(07/09,5650m),C1(14/09,6300m),C2(19/09,6950m),C3(24/09,7500m),Smt(25-26,28/09)

routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at normal site.

  Wanda Rutkiewicz and yaks arived at ABC while other members arrived only on 10th after more acclimatization. On 15th climbers deposited gear at 6700m and all down to ABC that day for rest. 18th all 8 to C1 and Wanda on up to ice tunnel-depot at 6700m. 19th all to C2. 20th all except Wanda down to ABC to C2. 24th all towards C3 site but Wanda was behind the others, couldn't find their trail and made biv in snowhole 100m below them. 25th 2 to top, while Wanda passed C3 and up to 7700m and back to C3 because of strong wind and poor visibility; that night, 3:15 am (NST) she left C3 in fullmoon light and slight wind and reached [the top at] at 10:45 am. In her descent chose wrong couloir far from her C3 and alone so impossible for her to make trail in deep snow to traverse to C3, so went on down and finally reached expedition's C2 (passing a body in a tent - whose?) and 27th to ABC. On 27th 2 Spaniards going up from ABC to C1 as she passed them; they were heading for top. Wanda left ABC 28th am and with 2 members reached KTM night of 29th. One member had left ABC on 26th, 2 members few days earlier.


  Fernandez and Quetglas - 13 Oct:

  De Leo reached summit 25 Sept and when descending met De Dea at 8100m going up - De Leo asked De Dea to help him descend: De Leo very tired and frostbite beginning in his fingers and toes, so De Deo turned back at 8100m to help his friend; "psychologically Guido was on summit."

  Fernandez, Quetglas and Tirtha Tamang went up to C2 on 27 Sept. 28th Quetglas left C2 6:00 am Chinese time and arrived at C3 9:00 am with very cold toes. Went into Japanese tent, which was empty at the time because Japanese were going to summit, and used Japanese cooker, etc., to heat water to warm his feet. The C3 established by Wanda and Christian was now gone. Stayed 3 hrs until sun was on the face, then at 12:00 up. Met descending Japanese at 8000m at about 3:00 pm, and reached summit at 5:00 pm; returned to C2 and slept there.

  Fernandez on 28th to C3 with Tirtha Tamang. 29th both to 7800m, then Ferandez developed stomach trouble and both to BC same day and climb finished (this was same day USSR and US climbers reached summit). Quetglas and Fernandez then went to Xixabangma, where they joined Spanish team, but no summit success.

  De Dea claims to have reached summit bid but did not - Wanda by telephone 1 Oct.

  Grenier says on 5 Oct only Christian and Sergio on summit on 25 Sept.


expid: CHOY91311
peakid: CHOY
year: 1991
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Myong-Soo
sponsor: 1991 Korean Xixabangma & Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: From Xixabangma by jeep
bcdate: 1991-10-17
smtdate: 1991-10-29
termdate: 1991-11-06
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to very strong wind
othersmts: Xixabangma
campsites: BC(17/10,4900m),ABC(20/10,5700m),C1(21/10,6400m),C2(23/10,7000m),C3(25/10,7200m),xxx(29/10,7400m)
accidents: None
agency: Sallyan
routememo:
  29th summit bid stopped by winds and slept ABC. 3rd Nov tried again but reached C2. 30th Oct C3 and 1 tent at C1 destroyed by wind (C3's only tent blown away but found 3 Nov near C2). Left BC 6th Nov.


expid: CHOY91312
peakid: CHOY
year: 1991
route1: W Ridge-W Face from S
nation: Austria
leaders: Rudi Mayr
sponsor: Austrian Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 1991-10-24
smtdate: 1991-10-28
termdate: 1991-11-04
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to wind
othersmts: Island Peak
campsites: BC(24/10,5200m),ABC(25/10,5700m),C1(26/10,6000m),C2(28/10,6500m),xxx(04/11,6500m)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Lamjung
routememo:
  BC  at Kangchung's correct location
  ABC NNE of Nangpa La (near "g" of Gyabrag Glacier)
  C1  east of of Glacier
  C2  on ridge (never slept in)
  High point at C2 site.

  Perhaps did not push hard enough but even at BC 2 tents broken by wind-strong wind every day starting in late morning at night blew very hard. Route is very long with little altitude gain. Tent placed at site by Wuertenberger who did not sleep there on 28th. He again to C2 on 4th Nov, wind too strong for further progress and he retreated same day with tent. Kitchen boy on same day to C2 on his own to retrieve coffee pot, etc.


expid: CHOY91308
peakid: CHOY
year: 1991
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: France
leaders: Philippe Grenier
sponsor: Terres d'Adventure to Cho Oyu
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1991-09-21
smtdate: 1991-09-28
termdate: 1991-09-30
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m (lower summit)
campsites: BC(21/09,5700m),C1(25/09,6400m),C2(26/09,7100m),C3(27/09,7600m),xxx(28/09,8100m)
accidents: Slight frostbite in toes by summiters; 2 others slightly ill
agency: Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
routememo:
  Easy climb. Took more direct route from C2 to C3. 2 climbed very quickly, were very strong and Japanese Sherpas had made route and were lucky that winds had abated when French ready to try for top. Reached 1st summit they came to which in clear weather proved not to be highest.

  Left BC 30 Sept; left quickly because of frostbite.


