# exped

expid: AMAD59101
peakid: AMAD
year: 1959
route1: N Ridge-NE Spur
nation: UK
leaders: J. H. Emlyn Jones
approach: Namche->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1959-04-17
smtdate: 1959-05-21
termdate: 1959-05-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6550m+ after two disappeared on way to summit
othersmts: Climbed Ambu Gyabjen (AMBG-591-01)
accidents: Fraser and Harris disappeared on way to summit (fall?)
campsites:
  BC(17/04,5030m),C1(01/05,5440m),C2(05/05,5850m),C3(07/05,6050m),C4(18/05,6350m),C5(19/05,6400m),xxx(21/05,6550m+)

routememo:
  From letter from J. H. Emlyn Jones to Salisbury - January 26, 2004

  "Incidently, Michael Ward who made the first complete ascent on Ama Dablam, having seen our photographs, is fairly certain that Mike and George reached the summit and were probably lost on the way down."


  From letter from Michael Ward to Salisbury - February 9, 2004

  "I reckoned that Mike Harris & George Fraser were good enough climbers to have climbed A-D by their route. That's why made this remark. We saw no signs of them on the summit."


expid: AMAD61101
peakid: AMAD
year: 1961
route1: SW Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Edmund Hillary
sponsor: Himalayan Scientific and Mountaineering Expedition
ascent1: 1st
countries: UK, USA
smtdate: 1961-03-13
smttime: 1400
campsites: BC(4575m),C1(5800m),C2,C3,C4,Smt(13/03)
achievment: 1st ascent
primid: MAKA61101
othersmts:
  Climbed Ombigaichen (OMBG-603-01) and Island Peak (IMJA-603-01), recon Lhotse Shar (LSHR-603-01) and Shartse (SHAR-603-01); attempted Makalu (MAKA-611-01)


expid: AMPG53101
peakid: AMPG
year: 1953
route1: NE Side-S Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: John Hunt
sponsor: British Expedition to Mt. Everest
ascent1: 1st,2nd
approach: Ama Dablam Glacier
smtdate: 1953-04-11
campsites: Smt(11-12/04)
routememo: Ambu Gyabjen was climbed to test oxygen equipment.
primid: EVER53101
othersmts:
  Climbed Everest (EVER-531-01), Imjatse (IMJA-531-01), Kangchung Nup (KCHN-531-01), Pointed Peak (POIN-531-01), Pokalde (POKA-531-01) and Chhukung Tse (CHUK-531-01)


expid: AMPG59101
peakid: AMPG
year: 1959
route1: S Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: J. H. Emlyn Jones
ascent1: 3rd,4th
approach: Namche->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1959-04-17
smtdate: 1959-04-23
termdate: 1959-05-30
othersmts: Attempted Ama Dablam (AMAD-591-01)
campsites: BC(17/04,5030m),Smt(23,25/04)
primid: AMAD59101
routememo:
  Summiter, summit route and date information provided by J. H. Emlyn Jones by letter in January 2004.


expid: ANN150101
peakid: ANN1
year: 1950
route1: NW Spur (to 6000m)
route2: N Face
nation: France
leaders: Maurice Herzog
ascent2: 1st
approach: Mristi Khola
bcdate: 1950-05-18
smtdate: 1950-06-03
termdate: 1950-06-10
othersmts: Recon Dhaulagiri I (DHA1-501-01)
campsites:
  BC(18/05,5000m),C1(5100m),C2(5900m),C3(6600m),C4(28/05,6900m),C4B(30/05,7160m),C5(02/06,7500m),Smt(03/06)


expid: ANN182102
peakid: ANN1
year: 1982
route1: N Face
nation: W Germany
leaders: Siegfried Siebauer
countries: Austria
bcdate: 1982-04-05
smtdate: 1982-05-06
termdate: 1982-05-09
termnote: Abandoned at 7950m due to bad weather
campsites:
  BC(05/04,4250m),C1(10/04,5000m),C2(14/04,5600m),C3(20/04,6300m),C4(03/05,6800m),C5(05,7250m),xxx(06/05,7950m)

routememo:
  Both Austrian-Swiss and German expedition running together except for summit. No problem between groups [thus combined description for both expeditions].

  Germans arrived BC 5 April at 4250m; Schell and his Austrian-Swiss team arrived BC 12 April and BC 50m different.

  C1 5000m 10 April occupied. Aust-Swiss had C1 same place
  C2 5600m 14 April Germans and Austrians at same altitude
  C3 6400m Austrian 20 April
  C3 6300m Germans 21 April
  C4 in snowcave by Germans 6800m on 3 May
  C4 by Austrians at 7100m also on 3 May
  C5 by Germans at 7250m on 5 May (Austrian-Swiss had no C5)

  Germans tried summit on 6 May: Beyerlein, Guenther, Kirner and Lechleitner. No Sherpas because Germans had no Sherpas. 7950m reached. Beyerlein spent 4 days in C5 and tried a second time for summit with Kuehn 9 May; reached 7300m only this time.

  No success for Germans: strong storm and very cold.
  Germans used no oxygen; one has frostbitten toes; no accidents.

  Shanti Rai helping clear route but C2 and C3 very difficult, very steep. He was given big load by Sherpas who did not wait for him. He alone in chimney, maybe fall backwards with load. Disappeared and definitely is dead. Was stormy: snowfall with wind and cold that day.

  7 yesterday, others arrive about 27-8 May. at Shakti Hotel.


  Schell - 12 May 82

  4 left BC 7th evening; others started from BC on 13th and arrived 21 or 22 May (at Ambassador).

  C4 by Germans at 6800m
  C4 at 7100m by Austrians on 3 May
  C5 on 5 May at 7300m by Germans

  4 May at 2:00 am 6 set out for top from C4: Woergoetter, Buerkli, Haegler, Buholzer and Fehlmann. Buholzer and Fehlmann dropped out at 7900m tired. Other 4 to top, 12:30 by Dawa Tenzing and Woergoetter and other 2 about 3:00 pm. Little windy on top but fine even for 2nd pair. 1-1/2 hour on top and returned to C4 at 5:00 pm and other Haegler at 6:30 and Buerkli at 7:30 pm.

  Buerkli arrived at C4, spoke few words and collapsed. Tried for 4-1/2 hours to revive him but leader and doctor believe he died immediately on arrival at C4.

  Next group (Austrian-Swiss) and in C3 that day and on 6 May tried for top but did not get above 7900m, same as Germans.
   
  3rd and 4th groups from Austria were to try and may be Germans also. Doubt they could have succeeded because bad weather. Body not possible to bring down so left in crevasse at 7100m near C4.

  Dutch Rib not possible now but in autumn good. Followed Spanish East Peak route and then Germans Middle Peak route and thence to top. Over 1000m fixed rope.


  Werner and Egertz - 23 April 82

  By first group:
  BC 4250m
  C1 5100m
  C2 5850m depot - 6 April 
  Hans Schell arrived BC 7 or 8 April
  Egertz left expedition because of sickness on 19 April. 


  Schell - 7 April 82

  Schell and last 3 others of Austrians group leave KTM today and arrive BC after 8 days. Main Austrian party arrive BC 2 days from now.

  Germans have no H-A Sherpas
  Austrians have 4 H-A Sherpas
  Austrians have 12 med oxygen only
  All must climb same route (Dutch rib)

  Germans permitted to go to site of C2 (5500m) only; not even to establish camp there until Schell arrives BC. Then all decide exact route and climb proceeds. 

  Schell expects both parties camps to be very near each other, but lack of space on rib will require same slight distance between them.

  BC - 4400m
  C1 - 5000-5100m (only for acclimatization and emergency)
  C2(ABC) - 5500m
  C3 - 6300m
  C4 - 7000m
  C5 - 7500m
  Summit early May

  All must leave BC before or with Schell. None can stay on after he leaves. Schell expects return KTM late in May, but must give chance to all to go to summit.


  Austrian Annapurna I

  4 arrived KTM 7 March and 10 more came 14th. All are Germans except Umlauft. Sherpas above BC.

  Annapurna I North Face Dutch route

  Leave 17-19 March and arrive BC about 10-12 days later.

  Hanns Schell's group of 18 arrive 15 and 22 March and Schell on 4 April and join at BC 1-2 weeks later.

  7 Sherpas above BC
  5 camps above BC with C5 at 7000-7200m 
  Summit 15-20 May
  Oxygen medical only


expid: ANN361101
peakid: ANN3
year: 1961
route1: N Face
nation: India
leaders: M. S. Kohli
ascent1: 1st
approach: Marshyangdi River->Manang
bcdate: 1961-04-04
smtdate: 1961-05-06
termdate: 1961-05-13
campsites:
  BC(04/04),C1(15/04,4700m),C2(16/04,5300m),C3.ABC(19/04,5730m),C4(22/04,6340m),C5A(25/04,6645m),C5B(05/05,6800m),Smt(06/05)


expid: ANN382302
peakid: ANN3
year: 1982
route1: NW Ridge from S
nation: Spain
leaders: Fernando Garrido
ascent1: 7th solo
smtdate: 1982-10-25
campsites: Smt(25/10)
routememo:
  Fernando Garrido did in fact climb Annapurna III solo on October 25, 1982. Garrido was trekking visitor to BC, where met a Spanish expedition, just about to depart after failing to climb the mountain (the leader was Guillem Arias). Having their permission for using their abandoned camps, food, etc., he made the climb to the summit after the group had left.


expid: ANNE84301
peakid: ANNE
year: 1984
route1: Glacier Dome-E Ridge up; N Face (Dutch Rib) down
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Frank Tschirky
sponsor: Swiss Annapurna Expedition (to E Ridge of Annapurna I)
ascent1: 2nd
bcdate: 1984-09-17
smtdate: 1984-10-23
smttime: 1430
termdate: 1984-11-02
achievment: Traversed East & Middle & Main Summits of Annapurna
primid: ANN184302
othersmts:
  Climbed Annapurna I (ANN1-843-02), Annapurna I Middle Smt (ANNM-843-02) and Roc Noir (ROCN-843-01); traversed under summit of Glacier Dome (GLAC-843-02)

campsites:
  BC(17/09,4300m),C1(19/09,5700m),C2(27/09,6500m),C3(04/10,7100m),C4(06/10,7490m),E-Smt(23/10),Biv1(23/10,8020m),Middle-Main-Smt(24/10),Biv2(24/10,7000m),Biv3(25/10,5000m)


expid: ANNM80301
peakid: ANNM
year: 1980
route1: N Face (E of Dutch Rib)-Middle Smt
nation: W Germany
leaders: Ludwig Greissl
sponsor: German Annapurna I Expedition 1980 (Group I)
ascent1: 1st
bcdate: 1980-09-11
smtdate: 1980-10-03
smttime: 1900
termdate: 1980-10-10
othersmts: Group II attempted Annapurna 1 (ANN1-803-01)
campsites:
  BC(11/09,4600m),C1(15/09,5100m),C2(16/09,5650m),C3(21/09,6100m),C4(28/09,6700m),C5(02/10,7100m),MiddleSmt(03/10)

routememo:
  Middle summit 3 Oct (Group I)
    Greissl
    Boening
    Oberrauch

  Trinkle died in fall from C5 (Group I).    

  Group II reached 6500m 14 Oct on Dutch route.
                             

  Friedrich - 27 Oct 80

  Group II had no success; 6500m reached 14 Oct by Feier and Friedrich. They came down 15 Oct.

  Group II route too dangerous because of avalanches. Had to make own route above 6000m over to Dutch route; too difficult for Sherpas. Friedrich and Feier went 3 times to fix ropes and never made new C3. Party too small and too much danger. Great avalanche came 1 hour after other 3 members came down icefall after minor accident.


  Oberrauch & Wildemann - 18 Oct 80

  Bauer, Helmut Daum, Joerg Daum, Feier and Friedrich (and doctor) stayed on to try to climb while 5 others turned back with Group II on 11th. Did not try to climb at all beyond C2 where looked at wall. Group II had arrived at BC on 4 Oct where news came of Trinkle's death, frostbite and avalanches.
   
  5 were trying to go on up where Group I left BC but avalanche had destroyed fixed-ropes and they had job of replacing them.

  When Group I was at Jomsom, Group II's mailrunner came and said all Group II were in BC and wanted porters about 20 Oct. Group doesn't know why and whether they had gotten high.

  Wildemann has slight frostbite from 4 Oct when had to stand much of time while getting Greissl down. Oberrauch none at all.

  Trinkle fell while he and Wildermann were helping down Greissl. Maybe his crampon became loose or caught on his trousers: don't know what happened but Wildemann saw him fall. Trinkle came from C4 to above C5 on 3 Oct. He was very strong but on 4 Oct was tired.


  Greissl - 10 Oct 80

  Climbed unconquered middle summit 8050m at 19:00 hours; not to main summit - this was on plan.

  2nd group plans to go to main summit.

  Lufthansa to Munich and to specialists hospital there.
  Tried to go to main summit - got to 7900m then deep snow and was alone.


  Greissl ex-helicopter - 10 Oct 80

  Absolutely silly which can happen on any mountain. Wilfried Trinkle died 4 Oct at C5 at 7100m. Slipped at 8:00-8:30 am, fell on 30% slope (something happened to him); fell 400m vertically. Saw body but could not reach him.

  Summit:  Boening 
           Greissl
           Heinz Oberauch

  On 3 Oct in evening, not together, between 18:00 and 19:00 hours; stayed short time on top, went down in dark. "Perhaps tried too modern boots," plastic with thermal shoes but not really thermal and you feel nothing.
   
  Frostbite not so bad. Greissl nearly all too and fingers right hand. Boening with better boots one foot both hands. Started from C5 at 8:00 am. Stopped at 7500m in night. Oberrauch reached C5 2:00 am 4 Oct, Greissl and Boening at 6:00-7:00 am. Had no real biv and stopped several places really no sleep at all.

  Good but cold on summit.

  Henning Woehl came to help Greissl and Boening because the frostbite. 
  Group now in C2; reached BC about 4 Oct; all camps standing.


  Several members - 22 Sept 80

  Group II
  Leave KTM tomorrow and arrive BC 3 or 4 Oct. 
  Same route as Group I and same Sherpas.
  Summit end Oct = 4 weeks climbing.

  Have come as Group II because would be too many people altogether. Combining both groups and this saves time and money.


  Greissl & Boening - 2 Sept 80

  Bechler left KTM 26 Aug with 100 porters; all others leave today.
  Route = North Face, perhaps Dutch route, perhaps in upper part Spanish route to east. Definitely not French route which is too dangerous.

  BC established 12-15 Sept.

  5 or 6 camps above BC; 2 before face, 3 maybe 4 up ridge, highest 7400m.
  8 Sherpas above BC; sirdar is Pasang Temba.


expid: ANNM84302
peakid: ANNM
year: 1984
route1: Glacier Dome-E Ridge up; N Face (Dutch Rib) down
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Frank Tschirky
sponsor: Swiss Annapurna Expedition (to E Ridge of Annapurna I)
ascent1: 4th
bcdate: 1984-09-17
smtdate: 1984-10-24
smttime: 1000
termdate: 1984-11-02
achievment: Traversed East & Middle & Main Summits of Annapurna
primid: ANN184302
othersmts:
  Climbed Annapurna I (ANN1-843-02), Annapurna I East Smt (ANNE-843-01) and Roc Noir (ROCN-843-01); traversed under summit of Glacier Dome (GLAC-843-02)

campsites:
  BC(17/09,4300m),C1(19/09,5700m),C2(27/09,6500m),C3(04/10,7100m),C4(06/10,7490m),E-Smt(23/10),Biv1(23/10,8020m),Middle-Main-Smt(24/10),Biv2(24/10,7000m),Biv3(25/10,5000m)


expid: ANNM84401
peakid: ANNM
year: 1984
route1: N Face (Dutch Rib)
nation: S Korea
leaders: Ahn Chang-Yeul
sponsor: 1984-85 Korean Annapurna I Winter Expedition
ascent1: 5th
bcdate: 1984-11-22
smtdate: 1984-12-07
othersmts: Claimed ascent of Annapurna I (ANN1-844-03)
accidents: Miss Kim's Face wounded by strong wind; 2 Sherpas slightly hurt by avalanche
primid: ANN184403
campsites:
  BC(22/11,4300m),BC2(27/11,4800m),C1(28/11,5600m),C2(02/12,6500m),C3(04/12,7100m),C4(06/12,7600m),Smt(07/12)


expid: APIM54101
peakid: APIM
year: 1954
route1: S Face (to 5850m)
route2: NW Face/Ridge (to 7000m)
nation: Italy
leaders: Piero Ghiglione
smtdate: 1954-06-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m after two fatalities during summit attempt
campsites:
  SouthBC(4025m),C1(5050m),xxx(5850m); NorthBC(08/06,4000m),C1(4650m),C2(13/06,5400m),C3(14/06,6150m),xxx(15/06,7100m)

accidents:
  Rosenkrantz died of AMS; Barenghi disappeared; Bignami drowned in Chamlia Khola after falling off flimsy foot bridge on march to north side of Api


expid: BARU54301
peakid: BARU
year: 1954
route1: N Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jean Franco
bcdate: 1954-09-15
campsites: BC(15/09,4700m),ABC(5300m),C1,C2,xxx(6700m)
primid: MAKA54301
othersmts:
  Climbed Makalu II (MAK2-543-01), Pethangtse (PETH-543-01), Chago (CHAG-543-01) and Chomo Lonzo (1st ascent); attempted Makalu (MAKA-543-01)


expid: CHAM62101
peakid: CHAM
year: 1962
route1: S Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Seiki Nakano
sponsor: Hokkaido University Mount Chamlang Expedition
ascent1: 1st
approach: Dharan->Tumlingtar->Hongku Khola
bcdate: 1962-05-03
smtdate: 1962-05-31
smttime: 1400
termdate: 1962-06-09
campsites:
  BC(03/05,4200m),C1(14/05,5200m),C2(17/05,5700m),C3(20/05,6300m),C4(26/05,6650m),Biv(30/05,6850m),Smt(31/05)


expid: CHMN53101
peakid: CHMN
year: 1953
route1: NE Ridge from NE
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Athol Roberts
ascent1: 1st-2nd
smtdate: 1953-06-05
smttime: 1400
termdate: 1953-06-10
othersmts: Attempted Ganesh I (GAN1-531-01), Ganesh II (GAN2-531-01) and Lampu (LAMP-531-01)
campsites: BC,C1(4900m),C2(5180m),C3(5800m),C4(6250m),C5(6700m),Smt(05,07/06)
primid: GAN153101
routememo:
  Taken from "The New Zealand Alpine Journal"

  At last we set off from Tumji with 18 well-laden coolies. We had enough food fro the four of us and four Sherpas for five weeks. It was not possible to get onto the glacier at its snout and we had to climb some 3000 ft before dropping down onto the white ice of the glacier on the third day. We eventually established Camp I about half way up the Glacier at 15,000 ft and coolies refused to go beyond this point. The next day we four with the help of our four Sherpas established Camp II. When this camp was well stocked the Sherpas moved ahead and established Camp III at 19,000 feet. Eventually Camp IV took shape and then CV at 22,000 ft. The Sherpas carried up this last camp and established Bishop, Sherpa Namgyal and me on a small flat part of the great summit ridge. We enjoyed little that night because of the wind and we were also feeling the effects of the altitude. Next morning we set out towards summit wearing crampons. We moved very slowly as we marvelled at the view which seemed endless, but after about 500 feet I became ill and went back towards the tent. Bishop and Namgyl went on. Two and half more hours of plugging with shorter spells of step cutting brought them to the top of a huge ice bulge, only to find that the real summit was further along and much flatter by heavily corniced ice arete. In the meantime Gardner and McCallum with Nima were moving up to Camp V in support, and if possible for their attempt on the peak the following day. Fortunately the wind had lessened in intensity and Bishop and Namgyl made steady progress to within 100 yards of the summit. Here the ice formed three or four giant waves and it took some three hours to pass them. There were several other steps in the ridge which gave trouble but Bishop was at last rewarded when on looking over a difficult step he saw an unbroken snow slope to the summit which he and Namgyl reached at 2 pm. There was a cold misty wind on top and the two climbers did not delay long. Two photographs were taken and the descent was commenced. Despite the cold Bishop could not suppress his elation at climbing his first Himalayan peak and at the knowledge that the party had attained an objective. Peak 23,513 was no longer unclimbed. It has subsequently been named Chamar.

  However it was now the turn of the rest of the party, and on the morning of the 7th June four climbers left their tents at Camp V for the second attempt on our new peak Chamar. Bishop and Namgyl bade farewell and good climbing to the two ropes made up of Gardner and the Sherpa Nima on one and McCallum and I on the other. It was not long before the effects of dysentery combined with oncoming illness made it impossible for me to continue and a return was made to Camp V. McCallum joined the other rope and the ascent continued. Shortly after the party had their first view of the summit, the steps made by Bishop the previous day were seen and it was not long before they were being put to excellent use. The three climbers no doubt mentally thanked the two men who had been there before them. A fierce wind was screaming across the slopes and this slowed up their progress. At last the summit was reached. A few sweets were eaten and the descent began. By then a thick mist had settled on the summit and flurries of snow increased in intensity. By the time they reached the steps they were completely filled. Nima, did a splendid job of finding the obliterated stops but unfortunately he had removed his goggles and when Camp V was reached he was complaining of sore eyes. At Camp V the effects of altitude were such that hot drinks were sufficient for their needs.

  Next morning Nima was snow-blind. The party set out in thick mist for CIV with the route finding problem on their hands because the snow had now wiped out all trace of tracks. Gardner and McCallum looked after Nima. Because steps had to be cut in the hard snow lying underneath the powder snow, and because Nima's feet had to be guided into these steps by McCallum it took an hour for them to descend the first hundred feet. From Camp IV the remainder of the party set off to give aid to the three who were on their way down. The former had been caught in a soft snow avalanche and had come out of it unscathed although two ice-axes were lost. The Camp IV party were some distance below and near where the avalanche must have started McCallum found one of the ice-axes. It seemed ages before the groups met. McCallum and Gardner were having a difficult time with Nima as they were both carrying heavy packs having left Nima with only a sleeping bag and air mattress to carry and having to clear away nearly a foot of powdered snow before each step could be cut. Willing hands relieved the summit party of their packs as soon as both parties met and the descent was continued down a well marked trail to Camp IV. It had taken seven hours for the 1500 foot descent between the two camps.

  Next morning, 9 June we took stock and result was not particularly encouraging. Nima was still completely snow blind. Sarki, the youngest Sherpa was blind in one eye; and I was weak from illness. To add to the difficulties, the monsoon had hit us. A start for Camp III was made in clear conditions but it was not long before the monsoon cloud had closed down about us. Progress was very slow in the soft snow avalanche. At last Camp III came into sight through the thick cloud. It was a sorry sight. The covered snow and crevasses had opened all round it. This stage of the journey from Camp IV to Camp III took six hours although it normally could have been done in one hour.

  June the 10th was our last day on the mountain. It turned out a lovely fine day and our spirits rose with the sun. Nima was now able to see out of one one and this load again and this load again and this was a great help to the rest of us. We were amazed how much the large crevasses had opened up between Camp III and CII and at times it seemed that we must be cut off from the lower part of the glacier. However we threaded our way through them and negotiated safely the frail looking snow bridges which had to be crossed to reach the lower sides of the crevasses.

  At last we reached the flat part of the glacier and it was not long before we were at C2, at an altitude of 17,000 ft. It was pleasant after our rather gruelling days at the higher camps. Our appetites returned and we were again able to really enjoy food. That night as we settled down in Camp II the party felt satisfied that the plans which had been made in Wellington months before had borne fruit. We had climbed a Himalayan Peak. We had done that which we had come to do and we could now return without misgivings or disappointment. It had been a grand and impressive experience. Space does not permit me to tell you of the exploration and our trip out hampered with rising rivers and detested leeches. However we achieved our ambition: we have climbed in the Himalaya.


expid: CHOY51301
peakid: CHOY
year: 1951
route1: Nangpa La (recon)
nation: UK
leaders: Eric Shipton
sponsor: British Reconnaissance to Mt. Everest
countries: New Zealand
approach: Thami->Nangpa La
othersmts: Recon Everest (EVER-513-01) and Pumori (PUMO-513-01)
campsites: xxx(Nov,5800m)
primid: EVER51301
routememo:
  Hillary - 7 March 79

  In 1951 (and 1952) crossed Nangpa La and looked at north side (Gyabrag Glacier)

  Shipton and Hillary crossed into Hongu from Imja via Amphu Laptsa to West Col.

  Riddleford and Hillary made first foreign crossing of Tashi Laptsa. 

  Ward and Shipton made 1st crossing of Menlung La into Menlung Glacier.

  Hillary, Shipton, Bourdillon, Riddleford and Pasang Dawa Lama climbed to top of Khumbu Icefall and saw Cwm was feasible route to Everest.

  Shipton and Hillary climbed ESE Ridge of Pumori and first looked into Cwm (the ESE Ridge was attempted by Hammish MacInnes in '53).


expid: CHOY52101
peakid: CHOY
year: 1952
route1: W Ridge-W Face
nation: UK
leaders: Eric Shipton
sponsor: British Expedition to Cho Oyu
countries: Canada, New Zealand
approach: Nangpa La
bcdate: 1952-05-05
smtdate: 1952-05-09
termdate: 1952-05-10
campsites: BC(05/05,5700m),C1(06/05,5800m),C2(07/05,6400m),xxx(09/05,6800m)
othersmts:
  Climbed Ripimo Shar (RIPI-521-01) and Palung Ri (PLNG-521-01); attempted Parchamo (PARC-521-01); recon Changtse (CTSE-521-01)

routememo:
  Hillary - 7 March 79

  In 1951 (and 1952) crossed Nangpa La and looked at north side (Gyabrag Glacier)

  Shipton and Hillary crossed back from Hongu over Mingbo La - 1st crossing of Mingbo La.

  Attempt on Cho Oyu from Gyabrag Glacier to W Ridge. Reached 22,000 ft by Lowe, Hillary, Bourdillon and Gregory.

  Lowe, Hillary and 3 Sherpas made first crossing of Nup La, then icefalls across Lumpga Glacier to West Rongbuk Glacier to down to main Rongbuk Glacier to East Rongbuk Glacier. Weak attempt on Changtse made by Lowe and Hillary to 21,500 ft (6600m).

  From N Face also went to or near site of '22 Everest C3.

  Lowe and Hillary climbed Palung Ri and another peak. 

  Can't remember Bourdillon and Colledge climbing anything.

  Shipton, Evans, Lowe and Hillary crossed into Barun.


expid: CHOY80301
peakid: CHOY
year: 1980
route1: W Ridge-W Face
nation: W Germany
leaders: Hans Dieter Sauer
approach: Lamusangu->Namche->Thame->Nangpa La
bcdate: 1980-10-07
smtdate: 1980-10-14
termdate: 1980-10-16
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to cold hands and feet
campsites: ABC(07/10,6000m),C1(10/10,6350m),C2(13/10,6900m),xxx(14/10,7600m)
agency: None
routememo:
  Approach: Walked from Lamusangu and arrived in Namche on 28 Sept.

  During his attempt in 1978, Sauer realized that a solo ascent would be possible; however, he knew that he had to be a bit better prepared. When he crossed the Nangpa La, he was very careful not to get caught and did not see a soul on his crossing. 

  ABC 6000m  07/10
  C1  6350m  10/10
  C2  6900m  13/10
  HPt 7600m  14/10 by Sauer at noon.

  Fixed about 90m of rope between 6350m and 6900m, which was handy on the way down.

  Left Namche on 1 Oct. Having already equipment at the mountain his load was only 40 kg this time, so he did not split it. Realizing that the surveillance at Thame was lax he dared to go via Thame and could indeed pass the sentry without being noticed. He arrived at the foot of the mountain on 7 Oct. He regained his deposit of 1978 and proceeded on the snow ridge establishing himself near the spot of C1 of Tichy. Then he fixed about 90m of rope on an ice cliff (6700m) (see Tichy's book, photo opposite p65 and p76, German edition) and moved on to establish himself at an altitude around 6900m (beneath C4 of Tichy).

  On 14 Oct he left C2 at 5:30 am (Nepali time). He reached 7600m (just below the Yellow Band) at noon and felt that he had cold fingers and toes. He knew that he could have made it to the summit in about four or five hours, however, his worry about frostbite was stronger and so he decided to turn back. On his descent, a hard slab of snow broke, he slipped and skidded down for about hundred metres, distance not height. He had lost consciousness for a while, but fortunately he did not get badly hurt, only his nose was broken.  

  He continued to descend to 6900m, packed up his tent and descended to 6350m, where he pitched his tent and spent the night. On 15 Oct, he descended via the scree ridge (the route taken by Tichy and nowadays the normal route) to the foot of the mountain and crossed the Nangpa La on 16 Oct.

  Oxygen: not taken, not used.


expid: CHOY81301
peakid: CHOY
year: 1981
route1: W Ridge-W Face
nation: W Germany/Iran
leaders: Mischa Saleki
approach: Namche->Nangpa La
smtdate: 1981-11-12
campsites: xxx(7800m)
routememo:
  Unsuccessful attempt claimed

  Saleki - 23 Nov 81

  In 8 days from Namche he climbed Cho Oyu this Nov then terrible wind turned him back 300m below top about 12 Nov. Entirely alone. Crossed Nangpa La and went up northwest side, same route as before. Wants to do solo ascent of Cho Oyu in winter.


expid: CHOY82301
peakid: CHOY
year: 1982
route1: W Ridge-W Face
nation: W Germany
leaders: Hans Dieter Sauer
approach: Kirantichap->Namche->Gokyo->Nangpa La
bcdate: 1982-10-16
smtdate: 1982-10-26
termdate: 1982-10-30
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to lateness of the day
campsites: ABC(16/10,600m),C1(18/10,6350m),C2(24/10,6600m),C3(25/10,6900m),xxx(26/10,8100m)
agency: None
routememo:
  Hans Dieter Sauer - 17,28 Nov 2017

  ABC 6000m  16/10
  C1  6350m  18/10
  C2  6600m  24/10
  C3  6900m  25/10
  HPt 8100m  26/10 by Sauer at 5:30 pm.

  Sauer walked from Kirantichap (on the Jiri road, then under construction) to Namche, arrived 25 Sept, spent seven days around Namche acclimatizing, left Namche 3 Oct. Having noticed during a visit to Thame that the surveillance was now strict he decided to go again via Gokyo. Up to Gokyo he had the help of two porters, but then he was alone; he did it on his own again. Crossed over to Nangpa La glacier like in 1978 and reached the mountain, on the base of the scree ridge, on 16 Oct. 
  He established himself at 6350m on 18 Oct, fixed ropes at the ice cliff (6700m) and stayed for two nights at 6350m. Being very windy he decided to descend to ABC on 21 Oct. On 22 Oct, it started snowing heavily and Sauer was worried that an avalanche would come down. He decided to abandon his climb and left. But like in 1978 the storm was so strong that he could not pass the Nangpa La and he had to pitch his tent while still on the Tibetan side. The snow storm continued during the next day, but calmed down in the following night. On 24 Oct the weather was brilliant. So Sauer ascended again the same day. He reached 6600m where he spent the night and on 25 Oct he continued to 6900m.

  Summit attempt on 26 Oct. He left C3 at 5:30 am. He tried to take a direct line right off the normal route as the conditions were good. Nice firm snow. However, it was constantly steep and exhausting making him very slow. After about 12 hours on steep terrain, he finally reached the summit plateau just as it was getting dark. He saw a big snow drift near the summit and spontaneously decided to turn back from his high point. He descended the normal route (he remembered the route from Tichy’s description in his book). On his descent at about 7600m he skidded into a crevasse overturning several times landing headover in a steep snow slope. Luckily he remained unscathed. He decided to spend the night on the very spot where he had landed fearing that he would slip further down into the crevasse in the darkness. His headlamp was of no use because the air in the crevasse was filled with fine snow like a dense fog and he lacked orientation. Trying not to fall asleep, he ate a piece of his chocolate every half hour and managed to stay awake until dawn. He stayed calm the whole night and concentrated on the situation. He managed to crawl out of the crevasse; however, when the metal frame of his rucksack got stuck in a narrow bit he suddenly was overwhelmed by panic. He got rid of the rucksack, stuffed his camera and some utensils into the pockets of his anorak and continued to crawl out of the crevasse. He had lost his ice axe right at the beginning of the fall, but found it again when he got out of the crevasse. From his climb back to the surface Sauer estimates that he skidded down about 12 metres.

  He then started to descend slowly to his camp at 6900m. He stayed the night there (27 Oct). On 28 Oct, he packed up his tent and sleeping bag (difficult without a rucksack) and descended to 6000m. He stayed one night, made a rucksack out of the duffle bag he had left there and moved closer to the Nangpa La. On 30 Oct, he crossed the Nangpa La back into Nepal and reached Namche on 2 Nov, passing the sentry in Thame at dawn.

  During the night in the crevasse he had contracted frostbite on his finger tips and on his right toe. In Namche the afflicted parts had turned black.

  He continued immediately to Lukla to get a flight next morning. But in spite of his injuries Sauer was not given a seat on several planes leaving for Kathmandu. Fortunately he met William (Bill) Denz, his friend Vivienne Pincott, and the doctor Mike Sim, all from New Zealand, who took care of him and managed to get him a seat next morning on 4 Nov. They flew out to Kathmandu together (see Paul Maxim: Bill Denz – New Zealand's Mountain Warrior, p241-242). Sauer managed to get a flight the same evening to Delhi and from there onwards via Paris with Air France to Munich, arriving 5 Nov.

  He was treated for his frostbite for two weeks in a Munich hospital. One year after his return from Cho Oyu he received a letter from Vivienne Pincott telling him the sad news that Bill Denz had been killed in an avalanche on Makalu.


  Dr. Hermann Warth - Nov 1983

  When Warth was in Germany last Nov, Hans-Dieter Sauer told him that Sauer succeeded in reaching Cho Oyu summit in Oct 1982. Sauer had frostbitten toes and fingers as result.


  Messner - 8 Apr 1983

  Sauer met Messner in Munich last month. Sauer claims solo ascent of Cho Oyu, but he's not a top climber and Messner does not believe claim.


  Dr. Hermann Warth - 26 March 1981

  Hans Dieter Sauer of Munich made 2 attempts on Cho Oyu via Tichy route:

  1978 reached 7700m.

  1980 reached 7800m - very cold, retreated, fell and broke nose
  (Sauer visited Warth in his office just after last year's [1980] attempt).


  Mischa Saleki - 31 Dec 1982

  A German, Hans Dieter Sauer from Munich, attempted Cho Oyu via Saleki's route and used same equipment Saleki had left. Attempt in autumn 1982. Saleki there after Sauer, saw Sauer's track to 7000m only although Sauer claimed he got higher (but not to summit). Sauer's fingers badly frostbitten.

  [Frank] Wells, an American mountaineer, was on Cho Oyu apparently with Sauer. Gurley is writing Wells for same information about the climb and should bring me the answer in May.

  8 May 1983 - Gurley leaves KTM tomorrow; received no reply from Wells, but will keep after him to write me.

accidents:
  Frostbite on finger tips, which he contracted during his climb out of the crevasse (he was treated in Munich hospital for two weeks).


expid: CHOY83303
peakid: CHOY
year: 1983
route1: NW Ridge
nation: W Germany
leaders: Rudi Klingl, Norbert Hertkorn
ascent1: 5th,6th
bcdate: 1983-09-25
smtdate: 1983-11-15
campsites: BC(25/09,6000m),C1(10/10,6800m),C2(13/11,7100m),Biv(14/11,7200m),Smt(15,17/11)
accidents: Klingl frostbitten fingers (both hands after 2nd ascent)
routememo:
  BC after 3 weeks trip from Kathmandu
  C1 by 2 German members only
  C2 above 150m-high ice face.

  Left KTM on 4 Sept with 13 porters to Lukla and changed to 2 Sherpas from Lukla to 6000m pass. Sherpas to BC only (BC new pass). Until 12 Nov bad weather and did no climbing. 12 Nov up 150m ice face to C2 at 7100m. 14th up and reached 7200m. 15th towards summit (temp -40 degrees C) and reached 8100m at summit plateau at 12:00 hours. To true summit that afternoon and returned C2. 16th rested in C2. 17th Klingl to top from C2 in 5 hours to take photos. Klingl spent total 7 days between 7000-8000m in very cold but clear weather. Saw Everest. Hertkorn stayed in C2, too tired to go to top again. Returned to BC on 18th.

  Saleki was in C2 at same time at Klingl and Hertkorn. Saleki not fit enough to go up to top with them. Saleki never summited, but stole Klingl's pictures to prove he had.

  Concerning Cho Oyu and Mischa Saleki: He was never above 7000m as stated by Norbert Hertkorn and Rudi Klingl after the expedition 1983 Oct-Nov. See all details in "Bergwelt" 2/1986 (also with Panorama by Klingl who was twice on the summit). I [Hawley] have all documentary proofs further from the father of Hertkorn. Saleki is a most ruthless imposter; by Herrligkoffer he is also stated to be criminal (after stealing equipment from other expedition members).

  The Saleki story of traversing Cho Oyu in 1979 is of course all invented in his book. There are also no clear facts mentioned by Saleki who actually is American of Soviet-Russian origin but via Iran later emigrated to Hungary and Western Germany. 

  [So we can completely leave Saleki's name out for any thing connected with Cho Oyu].


expid: CHOY87104
peakid: CHOY
year: 1987
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: France
leaders: Jean Clemenson
approach: From Tingri
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m
campsites: BC,xxx(6500m)
routememo:
  Cho Oyu - Spring 1987

  An unauthorized attempt on Cho Oyu was made this spring 1987 by two Frenchman, Jean Clemenson and another whose name Mauricio Purto (leader of Chilean exp) doesn't know. They left their equipment at base of SW Ridge (Chilean's C2) when bad weather stopped their climb and they descended. Told Chileans they could use their supplies if Frenchman didn't come back for it in 15 days and they did not come back. Did not go higher than C2 at 5800m. No Sherpas with them.

  (I met Clemenson in April - said he'd been trekking)


  Regis Maincent, 28, Chamonix
  Jean Clemenson

  Messner's route on Cho Oyu reached 6500m - deep snow and exhaustion and blizzard defeated them.

  KTM/Kodari Rd/Tingri W/Yak driver and yak party to Cho Oyu/Nangpa La/mtn/ Thami/KTM. 16-20 days Tingri W/Thami including several days shuttling loads after yak driver abandoned them. Arrived Thami 13 April when Thompson met them there.


expid: CHUR62101
peakid: CHUR
year: 1962
route1: N side
nation: Japan
leaders: Shijiro Ishizaka
sponsor: Nihon University
approach: Mukut La->Mukutgaon->Kakotgaon->Kaya Khola
bcdate: 1962-06-03
termdate: 1962-06-10
termnote: Abandoned at 5750m to due approaching monsoon and lack of time
campsites: BC(03/06,4700m),ABC(5050m),xxx(5750m)
primid: HONG62101
othersmts:
  Climbed Hongde (HONG-621-01), Dhampus (DHAM-621-01), Tongu (TONG-621-01) and Kangtokla (KTOK-621-01); recon Dhaulagiri II


expid: CHRW71101
peakid: CHRW
year: 1971
route1: W Ridge (to W Peak) (to 6700m)
nation: Japan
leaders: Makoto Takahashi
sponsor: Tokyo University
bcdate: 1971-04-08
smtdate: 1971-05-26
termdate: 1971-06-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to bad weather
othersmts: Attempted Churen Himal East (CHRE-711-01)
primid: CHRE71101
campsites:
  BC(08/04,4100m),WestC1(12/04,4700m),WestC2(26/04,5500m),WestC3(05/05,6150m),WestC4(16/05,6350m),WestC5(23/05,6600m),xxx(26/05,6700m)


expid: TAPL63101
peakid: TAPL
year: 1963
route1: W Ridge
route2: S Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Ken Miyazawa
sponsor: Tokyo Agricultural University
bcdate: 1963-04-28
smtdate: 1963-06-01
campsites: BC(28/04,5100m),C1(5200m),C2(5600m),xxx(01/06,6400m)
primid: GIMM63101
othersmts:
  Attempted Gimmigela Chuli (GIMM-631-01); climbed Tsisima (TSIS-631-01) and Tsisima S Peak (both 1st ascents)

routememo:
  Kogo, Twin Peaks Expedition

  1st 3 members return KTM 10 days ago, Kogo came 3 days. 1 member to Calcutta already and another tomorrow and Kogo day after. All reach Japan 11th July.

  Not able reach summit because last of May very bad weather. From C5 wanted to reach summit but for 7 days had storm strong wind and heavy snow. C5 7000m. 2 members stayed there: 1 leader and 2 subleader for 3 days. Summit 7350m (3.3 ft=1 metre). Lack of supplies forced them abandon attempt about 25th May

  Sent porters to climb:
  1) 6510m Taple Shikhar (Cross Peak) very hard rock and ice and very steep. Climbed 16 hours one day but reached only 1500m from peak - June 1st. Climbers, leader and Sherpa Ang Phurba from Namche - had to descend by Tyrolean traverse.
  2) Sherpa Kunga Norbu from Namche and Kogo went to try Tsisima peak and its South Peak 6390m - more peaks 6800m - south peak. On 3rd June - reached both summits - 5800m was last camp; that explored Yangma Khola (Valley) near Kangchenjunga.

  Not so difficult as Twins but 120m knife ridge very bad: had to cut off snow top of ridge - ridge at 6000m. Many crevasses near summit very dangerous but only technical difficulty was ridge. Kogo came to Nepal April 62 but this his first climb.


  Tokyo Agricultural University Expedition and climbing Twins of Kangchenjunga massif members:
  1) Ken Miyazawa   35
  2) H. Muraida     29
  3) Hayashi Komoda 25
  4) M. Kogo        23
  5) K. Miyazaki    22
  Dr. S Tamura (physician) 34

  Leave Biratnagar about April 1st
  research on agriculture crops, soil, winemaking, etc.
  as well as climbing - all members both mountaineers and researchers (ex dr. who only climbs and cares for health). 
  Financed by Tokyo Agriculture University
  Peaks never climbed before but 3 reconnaisance from Sikkim side.


expid: CTSE52101
peakid: CTSE
year: 1952
route1: N Face (recon)
nation: UK
leaders: Eric Shipton
sponsor: British Expedition to Cho Oyu
countries: New Zealand
approach: Nup La->W Rongbuk Glacier->E Rongbuk Glacier
campsites: BC,C1(5640m),C2(6400m),xxx(late-May,6600m)
primid: CHOY52101
othersmts:
  Climbed Ripimo Shar (RIPI-521-01) and Palung Ri (PLNG-521-01); attempted Cho Oyu (CHOY-521-01) and Parchamo (PARC-521-01)

routememo:
  Hillary - 7 March 79

  In 1951 (and 1952) crossed Nangpa La and looked at north side (Gyabrag Glacier)

  Shipton and Hillary crossed back from Hongu over Mingbo La - 1st crossing of Mingbo La.

  Attempt on Cho Oyu from Gyabrag Glacier to W Ridge. Reached 22,000 ft by Lowe, Hillary, Bourdillon and Gregory.

  Lowe, Hillary and 3 Sherpas made first crossing of Nup La, then icefalls across Lumpga Glacier to West Rongbuk Glacier to down to main Rongbuk Glacier to East Rongbuk Glacier. Weak attempt on Changtse made by Lowe and Hillary to 21,500 ft (6600m).

  From N Face also went to or near site of '22 Everest C3.

  Lowe and Hillary climbed Palung Ri and another peak. 

  Can't remember Bourdillon and Colledge climbing anything.

  Shipton, Evans, Lowe and Hillary crossed into Barun.


expid: CTSE82302
peakid: CTSE
year: 1982
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Alexander Verrijn Stuart
othersmts: Attempted Everest (EVER-823-03)
campsites: Smt?
primid: EVER82303
routememo:
  One member of Dutch Everest expedition in Autumn 1982, angry at leadership or other members, went off by himself and successfully climbed Changtse during expedition. This unnamed member is friend of [Cas/Kasper?] de Stoppelaar, who is associated with Summit Hotel.


  Frank Moll - 29 Apr 2003

  Members of our team, while climbing towards North Col (7000m) watched Johan Tax climbing in the direction of the summit of Changtse. They were within sound contact of each other and the members climbing towards North Col shouted to Tax: "Don't continue, we will get into trouble with the Chinese authorities!" This because we did not have a permit for Changtse. Measuring their position and the position of Tax they doubted afterwards that Tax could have made it all the way towards the summit and back within the time Tax used that day. However, Tax, on his return towards Advanced Basecamp declared: "The Dutch Changtse Expedition was successful!". This was embarrassing for all since a German team was already heading towards ABC to try the first ascent ever on Changtse. In all, the attempt of Tax was not taken seriously and his claim of the summit was not very credible. Especially because his climb was inspired by his frustrations about the progress of our expedition on Everest. I cannot ask Tax about this incident since he died in a crevasse on the Grenz Glacier in Switzerland a year later.


expid: CTSE86101
peakid: CTSE
year: 1986
route1: N Face-NE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Toshimi Horiuchi, Gombu
ascent1: 5th,6th
countries: Japan
bcdate: 1986-04-23
smtdate: 1986-05-10
termnote: Reached NE Smt (Main)
campsites: BC(23/04,5050m),ABC(30/04),C1(08/05,6930m),Smt(10-11/05)
routememo:
  The 48-member Chinese-Japanese joint party (20 Chinese, 18 Japanese and 10 assistants), led by Kombu (the summiter of Everest in 1960), made a massive ascent in May. On May 10, eight Chinese and eight Japanese, and on 11th another eight Chinese stood on the summit.


  Iwa-to-Yuki Mountaineering Annual 1987:

  On May 10, 16 members, 8 each from both Japanese and Chinese teams, left C1 (6930m), climbing on the North Face and got to the East Ridge at 7100m then reached the summit. Next day 11th, 8 more Chinese members made the summit, which resulted in 24 members ascending.


expid: CTSE87301
peakid: CTSE
year: 1987
route1: N Face-NE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Louis A. Whitton
ascent1: 8th
bcdate: 1987-09-05
smtdate: 1987-09-29
agency: None
campsites:
  BC(05/09,5100m),C1(5400m),C2(5800m),ABC(6000m),Biv1(6200m),Biv2(6500m),Biv3(6650m),Biv4(6900m),Smt(29/09)


expid: CTSE88301
peakid: CTSE
year: 1988
route1: SE Face-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Keith Brown
countries: UK
bcdate: 1988-09-07
smtdate: 1988-09-25
termnote: Abandoned at 7490m due to danger of windslab avalanching
othersmts: Attempted Cho Oyu (CHOY-883-06)
campsites: BC(07/09,6000),ABC(12/09,6250m),xxx(25/09,7490m)
achievment: 1st attempt on S Face direct
routememo:
  BC  at split of Changtse and E Rongbuk Glacier
  ABC at normal site below North Col.

  No bivouacs. Made single push up South Face indirect line to left of very predominant rock buttress. Not feeling well, other 3 members to 7350m and back because weather seemed to be deteriorating. 4 days later at 10:00 pm Brown alone up and 11:30 next morning reached 7490m, where was very bad wind slab; above that was loose and winds were strong, so down. Others did not go up 2nd push because they were exhausted.


expid: CTSE88302
peakid: CTSE
year: 1988
route1: NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Paul Pfau
sponsor: American Changtse Expedition
smtdate: 1988-09-28
termnote: Abandoned at 7240m due to deep snow, avalanching and wind
campsites: C1(13/09,5500m),C2(16/09,6100m),C3(19/09,6400m),C4(25/09,7000m),xxx(28/09,7240m)
agency: None
routememo:
  From American Alpine Journal 1988, page 279, by Paul Pfau:

  We arrived at Everest Base camp after a five day motorcade adventure from Lhasa.

  Intially blessed with good weather, we were able to establish C1 and Advance Base at 18,000 and 20,000 feet on September 13 and 16. Deteriorating weather delayed placing camp prevented establishment of C4 at 23,000 feet until September 25. We installed C3A at 22,000 feet on the 26th just below 600 ft of fixed line in the couloir leading to Changtse's upper plateau for logistical support above.

  While Mike Meyer, Ziggy Mulhauser and I ferried loads from C3A to C4 on September 28, Terry McNeil and David Tollakson made a summit bid from C4. Waist deep snow, hazardous winds and avalanche conditions on the long knife-edged northeast ridge forced them to retreat from 23,750 feet, a mile from and 1000 feet below the summit. Further deteriorating weather caused our withdrawal.


expid: DHA153101
peakid: DHA1
year: 1953
route1: N Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Bernhard Lauterburg
sponsor: Zurich Academic Alpine Club
approach: Myagdi Khola
bcdate: 1953-05-20
smtdate: 1953-05-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to difficult rock climbing
campsites: BC(20/05,3500m),C1(4525m),C2(5130m),C3(5530m),C4(5940m),C5(26/05,6550m),xxx(29/05,7700m)
routememo:
  Hired Above BC named in literature:

    Ang Tharkey
    Gyalzen
    Ila Tenzing
    Kami
    Taski                                                                                                             
    4 lowland porters carried gear to C1


expid: DHA154101
peakid: DHA1
year: 1954
route1: N Face
nation: Argentina
leaders: Francisco Ibanez
countries: Austria, Chile
smtdate: 1954-06-01
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to exhaustion
othersmts: Climbed Pampa (1st ascent)
accidents: Leader died in Ktmdu of illness and frostbite
campsites:
  BC(3650m),C1(4500m),C2(5000m),C3(5600m),C4(6000m),C5(6300m),C6(7010m),C7(7500m),Biv(01/06,8000m),xxx(8000m)


expid: DHA159101
peakid: DHA1
year: 1959
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Fritz Moravec
approach: Myagdi Khola
bcdate: 1959-04-03
smtdate: 1959-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to high winds
accidents: 1 member died in climbing accident (crevasse fall)
campsites:
  BC(03/04,4500m),C1(5200m),C2(14/04,5700m),C3(21/04,6150m),C4(21/04,6500m),C5(22/05,7000m),C6(24/05,7390m),xxx(25/05,7800m)

routememo:
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Sherpas (from "Dhaulagiri, Berg Ohne Gnade"):
    Pasang Dawa Lama
    Jangbu
    Na Temba
    Yila Tensing
    Pasang
    Nyima Phutar
    Ang Pasang
    Pemba Gyaltsen
    Phurba Gyaltsen
    Norbu
    + three others?


expid: DHA160101
peakid: DHA1
year: 1960
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Max Eiselin
ascent1: 1st,2nd
countries: Austria, Poland, USA, W Germany
approach: By air->Dhampus Col & NE Col
bcdate: 1960-03-28
smtdate: 1960-05-13
smttime: 1200
termdate: 1960-05-30
othersmts: Climbed Dhampus (DHAM-601-01) and Little Tukuche Peak (both 1st ascents)
campsites:
  NEColBC(28/03,4700m),C1(5100m),C2(03/04,5750m),C3(15/04,6590m),C4(29/04,7050m),C5(03/05,7400m),C6(12/05,7800m),Smt(13,23/05)


expid: DHA379301
peakid: DHA3
year: 1979
route1: NE Ridge up; SW Ridge down (from D-II to D-V)
route2: SW Ridge up; NE Ridge down (from D-V to D-II)
nation: Japan
leaders: Michiko Takahashi
sponsor: Japan Dhaulagiri Traverse Expedition 1979
ascent1: 3rd
ascent2: 4th
bcdate: 1979-09-02
smtdate: 1979-10-15
termdate: 1979-10-26
campsites: Smt(15/10)
primid: DHA279301
othersmts:
  Climbed Dhaulagiri II (DHA2-793-01), Dhaulagiri V (DHA5-793-01), Tsaurabong Peak (TSUR-793-01); attempted Snow Peak (SNOW-793-01)


expid: DHA472301
peakid: DHA4
year: 1972
route1: Junction Pk-W Ridge from SW
nation: Japan
leaders: Akinobu Otsu
sponsor: Japan Rock Climbing Society Expedition to Dhaulagiri IV
bcdate: 1972-09-02
termnote: Abandoned at 7149m due to difficult ridge beyond Gama Peak
othersmts: Climbed Dhaulagiri VI (DHA6-723-01) and Gama Peak (GAMA-723-01)
campsites:
  BC(02/09,4100m),C1(06/09,4800m),C2(11/09,5300m),C3(20/09,5700m),C4(29/09,6300m),C5(03/10,6400m),C6(13/10,6900m),xxx(14/10,7149m)

routememo:
  Dhaulagiri IV not summitted, but 3 scaled Dhaulagiri VI

  Otsu - 3 March 80

  Correct that 3 members his 1972 autumn expedition went to summit of Dhaulagiri VI. BC was on Kaphe Glacier, southwest of Dhaulagiri VI.


  Otsu - 5 Nov 72

  All arrive by bus today.

  Farthest point reached: 200m north of C6 on very narrow steep ridge.

  Fujita, Yashuma and Sato established C6 on 13 Oct and 200m north on 14 Oct.

  Could have made summit this route, but needed 15 days more and only 5 days his light food left and on 15 Oct, decided stop climbing. No clue of Austrian expedition which approached from eastern side of North-South Ridge.

  Akimoto, Yashuma and Shindo heard like yeti voice from C2 in middle Sept at 9 pm to 10 pm; like human voice calling, but no footprints found next am. This route possible if more supplies of food and equipments more Sherpas and more strong members; very steep route, but not dangerous.

  No accident, illness, trouble.


  Shrestha, MFA - 24 Oct 72

  Based 6th camp 6900m and reached 7200m, but on 15th abandoned climbing because 1 more days of climbing still to go.


  Otsu - 18 Aug 72

  Akinobu Otsu, Toshihiko Mizuno, Tomoyashu Akimoto leave today 11:20.
  Noriyuki Ueda arrives KTM mid-Oct; not climber, maybe to base.
  Start caravan 19 Aug, 12 days to base.


  Otsu - 16 Aug 72

  Sato to Pokhara on   14 Aug
  Igarashi & Fujita on 15 Aug
  Saito & Shindo       16 Aug
  Yashuma              17 Aug
  others perhaps       18 Aug


  Otsu - 8 Aug 72

  Total members 10: 7 arrive today and 1 later (mgr arrives Oct, not climber)
  2 routes - Glacier
  1) Kaphe Khola (Gustez Khola) - southwest
  2) Konoban Glacier - southeast

  Kaphe Glacier long but very easy, I think; try Kaphe Khola first; 6 high camps: base at 4100m with C6 at 7200m; route onto Dhaulagiri VI - Junction peak ridge to Junction to D-IV.

  To Pokhara 11 August: 120 porters. 6-7 Sherpas (Walsung Dorje sirdar). Bbegin caravan 21 Aug and 13 days to base camp to begin climb immediately; summit attempt 10-20 Oct. Selected D-IV because many Japanese parties have failed. This 5th attempt learned from earlier failures: technical difficulties are great, so all members are as good as British in technique for Alps and they use practical Japanese techniques of Bonington there for D-IV. Are members of Everest 1973 Otsu hopes.

  Expedition also search for Yeti; he wishes there is Yeti; will be walking around Kaphe-Konoban area looking for Yeti.

  None of the expedition climbed in Nepal before (leader arrives in Nepal) sightseeing.


  Shindo - 5 Aug 72

  Pokhara -> Beni Gurja -> Kharin -> Ghustung Khola -> north of D-VI -> Junction Peak -> D-IV. Very long route: BC to summit 20 km. 7 high camps. 
  9 members and 7 Sherpas.

  1) Mr. Otsu, Leader
  2) Mr. Fujita, deputy leader
  3) Mr. Akimoto
  4) Mr. Igarashi
  5) Mr. Mizuno (doctor)
  6) Mr. Yashuma
  7) Mr. Sato
  8) Mr. Saito
  9) Mr. Shindo


expid: DHA670101
peakid: DHA6
year: 1970
route1: S Ridge from W
nation: Japan
leaders: Tetsuya Nomura
sponsor: Kansai Mountaineering Club
ascent1: 1st
approach: Pokhara->Beni->Darbang->Muni->Kaphe Glacier (BC)
bcdate: 1970-04-01
smtdate: 1970-04-17
smttime: 1130
termdate: 1970-04-20
othersmts: Attempted Dhaulagiri IV (DHA4-701-01)
campsites:
  BC(01/04,4100m),C1(03/04,4700m),C2(04/04,5500m),C3(07/04,5750m),C4(09/04,5650m),C5(13/04,6350m),C6(16/04,7000m),Smt(17/04)

routememo:
  Nomura - 29 April 70

  5 meters below Dhaulagiri VI traversed 17th April officially actually reached summit.

  Base camp 1 April, C6 16 April just below summit Dhaulagiri VI. 17th continued north beyond Dhaulagiri VI summit along very sharp ridge. Unable find space even one tent on ridge and unable make next camp and turned back on 17th to C6 (this party S Nakamura and Kimura, with Yamamura and Kawazu in support). Returned to base 19th April and left base 20th.

  Decided this approach to Dhaulagiri IV probably not possible, as also Austrians route apparently not possible; perhaps north possible. Could see Austrians route with binoculars from furthest point reached, but could see no tents or other evidence: message to Austrians: could see nothing from distance about 700m from Austrians highest camp.

  All members leave Sat on Thai.

  Wants try Dhaulagiri IV from north, but not permitted to try from north; hopes after 2-3 years may be permitted.

  All members well; no accidents, no illness.

  Nomura yesterday to KTM
  Today  Norkamura
         Iwasa
         Yamamura
         Kawazu
         Kimura
  All others probably later today


  Nomura - 15 March 70

  Dhaulagiri IV base camp in khola which is uppper Ghustang Khola
  C4 at point 23,846 ft. 
  C5 between 23,846 ft and 23,320 ft. 
  C6 about 7000m between 23,320 ft and Dhaulagiri IV summit.

  Japanese route may join Austrian route about where "O" is of point 23,320 ft on Harka Gurung's map.


  Nomura - 7 March 70

  6 members arrive today, 2 already here.
  Different route from Austrians SW Face via Kaphe Khola
  Leave KTM charter plane about 15 March; leave 16 reach base camp after 
    14 days at 4100m.
  If possible 6-7 camps with highest at 7000m summit lst week April with 2-3 
    attacks on summit.
  Last autumn recon (not by Nomura).
  Long distance and height altitude from C5 to summit, maybe 6 km long
  2 Sherpas only; 35 porters to base; very light expedition "we have confidence."
  Look for Austrians as their climbers request.


expid: DHA670301
peakid: DHA6
year: 1970
route1: N Ridge from W
nation: Japan
leaders: Michihiko Ogata
sponsor: Fukuoka Alpine Club Himalayan Committee - Dhaulagiri IV
ascent1: 2nd
smtdate: 1970-11-01
campsites: BC(4100m),C1(4650m),C2(5000m),C3(5750m),C4(6060m),C5(6350m),C6(6900m),Smt(01/11)
primid: DHA470301
othersmts:
  Climbed Gama Peak (GAMA-703-01); attempted Dhaulagiri IV (DHA4-703-01) and Junction Peak (JUNC-703-01)


expid: DHAM62101
peakid: DHAM
year: 1962
route1: W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Shijiro Ishizaka
sponsor: Nihon University
ascent1: 2nd
smtdate: 1962-04-24
campsites: BC(5000m),Smt(24/04)
primid: HONG62101
othersmts:
  Climbed Hongde (HONG-621-01), Tongu (TONG-621-01) and Kangtokla (KTOK-621-01); attempted Churen Himal (CHUR-621-01); recon Dhaulagiri II


expid: PEMK55101
peakid: PEMK
year: 1955
route1: W side
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Raymond Lambert
ascent1: 1st
countries: Belgium
approach: Langtang Valley
smtdate: 1955-05-14
smttime: 1400
campsites: BC,C1,C2(5300m),C3(13/05,5760m),Smt(14/05)
routememo:
  Sherpas (names taken from literature):
    Pasang (1926)
    Ang Norbu (#216, 1924)
    Kami Tsering (1932)
    Nami (sirdar) (#191?)
    Ang Tsering
    Pemba Gyaltsen (to C3 only)


expid: DORJ64101
peakid: DORJ
year: 1964
route1: W Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Earl of Shaftesbury, Ami Giroud
countries: Switzerland
approach: Trisuli->Dunche->Langtang Valley
bcdate: 1964-04-20
smtdate: 1964-05-08
termdate: 1964-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to heavy snowfall
othersmts: Attempted Ganchempo (GANC-641-01)
campsites: BC(20/04,4980m),C1(24/04,4725m),C2(26/04),C3(29/04,5600m),C4(06/05,5950m),xxx(08,10/05,6300m)
routememo:
  Giroud - 30 May 64

  Not to summit of Dorje Lhakpa because bad weather by long ridge and very difficult one at 5100m right to top nearly 7000m. 6300m highest point reached 10 May because of snow. Then to Gangchempo nearly 6400m where Darbellay and Rey went to 100m of top on Sat 16, but not to top because too difficult: steepness and on final ridge straight up and had not necessary equipment. Made camp at 5700m.

  Leave KTM thus 4th directly to Geneva
  No accidents


  Shaftesbury - 18 May 64

  Left Langshisa Wednesday 13th. Planned assault for Sunday 10th but Saturday snowed heavily. Of last 800m, 500 65-degree ice ridge. So no question of their going up Sunday, and hoping for summit on Thursday. Tuesday and Wednesday also bad weather and Thursday looked bad too. 

  Shaftesbury leaving here thus via Calcutta. His highest point was C3 at 5600m. In London 26th or 27th from Switzerland.

  Other expedition leaving base camp 24th no matter what weather, etc. So have just weekend and 1st half of this week. Arriving Kathmandu 30th. This peak technically very difficult indeed and bad weather prevented quick conquest.

  All is well here, but we have chosen a very tough mountain to crack. Dorje Lhakpa at 6988m, C1 is at 4720m, almost 12 km up the Trulpaiku Glacier from here, C2 is at 5280m, another 3 hours further up underneath the mountain itself on the righthand Col. From there to the summit is a very difficult ice ridge up which we have so far established C3 at 5600m, but we aim to push that camp up to 5900m next week, having relaxed this weekend. Two members have already reached that height. We do not yet know if 4th camp will be necessary. I might come back to KTM on May 19th if successful.


  Himalaya (?) - 24 April 64

  Set base camp 20 April and all well; expect make decision upon which peak to tackle in 4-5 days time. 24 May from base camp to KTM.


  Shaftesbury - 10 April 64

  Shaftesbury head of expedition, 26, arrive May 22nd; single, Dorset, merchant banking for 3 years; now looking after farm at Winborne St. Giles. Climbing all in Alps for past 5 years mainly trekking, but no outstanding rock climbing, but has gone over 4000 meters experiencing all sorts of snow conditions

  Giroud leader of expedition, Swiss, professional guide from Verbier, 32, single; with Rey did record climb Aiguille du Plan North Face last year: 18 x 4000m peaks over and over again, all in Alps; unmarried. 

  Darbellay, 29, unmarried, Orsieres, professional guide; second north face of Matterhorn and only man to do north face Eiger solo (last August); all climbing in Alps.

  Rey, 31, unmarried, professional guide from Martiny Crois; very good on ice, all Alps: Grand Capucin de Tacul and 1st North Face of Dru.

  Sherpas (all Nepali except Lopsang)
  1. Sirdar, Sonam Girmi
  2. Cook, Ang Tenzing
  3. Lopsang, Darjeeling
  4. Ang Nijima
  5. Lhakpa Gelbyu

  Hoping leave Sunday afternoon via Trisuli
  40 porters


  Shaftesbury - 12 April 64

  Langtang Himal, Jugal Himal watershed. Base at Langshisa towards meeting of Langtang Glacier and Trulpaiku glacier. Will then do recon and determine which of 5 peaks: permission to area of 5 and if successful may ask for 2nd.

  Gangchempo (Fluted Peak) - 6397m
  Dorje Lhakpa - 6988m
  Leongpo Gang (climbed by Japanese) - 7083m
  Dome Blanc (Lambert climbed)  - 6830m
  Pemthang Ri - 6842m


  Shaftesbury - 2 April 64

  Earl of Shaftesbury
  Ami Giroud
  Michel Darbellay, climbed Eiger north face
  Michel Rey

  About Friday 10th to mountain if equipment arrives by Tuesday from Calcutta and with other 2 members. (2 days route made to base at 4450m via Trisuli to Sanche. 1 week recon out of base and put C1 at 5030m. Climb summit by 15th May (10-15). Lord Shaftesbury to C1 and so if can go on to summit as not so expert as others and might delay them.

  Also hopes one Sherpa on top; 3 Sherpas and 1 sirdar and 1 cook, 40 porters, one ton of equipment including its case.

  Climbing Dome Blanc only; Lambert conquered in 1955
  This first time in Himalayas for all 4 members.

  Dome Blanc conquered by Raymond Lambert about 6-7 years ago says Charles Wylie; later a man named Wallace from Kenya apparently reached a lesser peak of the mountain.

  Expedition arriving in April.


expid: DROM49101
peakid: DROM
year: 1949
route1: N side (recon)
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Alfred Sutter
countries: Germany
bcdate: 1949-05-19
termdate: 1949-07-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6250m due to inaccessible route
campsites: BC(19/05,4660m),C1(5250m),C2(5500m),xxx(6250m)
primid: PYRM49101
othersmts:
  Climbed Tengkoma (TENG-491-01), Sphinx (SPHN-491-01) and Dzanye (DZAN-491-01); attempted Ohmi Kangri (OHMI-491-01), Pyramid Peak (PYRM-491-01); recon Kangbachen (KANB-491-01)


expid: DROM63301
peakid: DROM
year: 1963
nation: Japan
leaders: Kenji Ishihara
sponsor: Tokyo-Osaka University Joint Himalayan Expedition
approach: Kangbachen BC->Ghunsa BC
bcdate: 1963-10-28
termdate: 1963-11-20
termnote: Termination reason unknown
campsites: BC(28/10,3800m),xxx(6100m)
primid: SPH163301
othersmts:
  Climbed Sharphu (SPH1-633-01), Tsisima (TSIS-633-01) and Syamdo Kangri (1st); attempted Talung (TLNG-633-01) and Merra (MERR-633-01); climbed 2 Tibetan peaks in Ombak Himal (OMBK-633-01)


expid: EVER22101
peakid: EVER
year: 1922
route1: N Col-N Face
nation: UK
leaders: Charles G. Bruce
countries: Australia
approach: Sikkim->Chumbi Valley->Tibet
bcdate: 1922-05-01
smtdate: 1922-05-27
termdate: 1922-06-14
termnote: Abandoned at 8350m due to exhaustion and [later] avalanche accident
accidents: 7 Sherpas killed in avalanche below N Col
campsites:
  BC(01/05,5000m),C1(5100m),C2(5800m),C3(6400m),C4(7000m),C5A(20/05,7600m),C5B(26/05,7700m),xxx(27/05,8320m)


expid: EVER24101
peakid: EVER
year: 1924
route1: N Col-N Face (Norton to 8570m)
route2: N Col-NE Ridge (Mallory to 8450m+)
nation: UK
leaders: Edward F. Norton
approach: Sikkim->Chumbi Valley->Tibet
bcdate: 1924-04-28
smtdate: 1924-06-08
termdate: 1924-06-15
termnote: Abandoned at 8600m after the disappearance of Mallory and Irvine
accidents: Mallory and Irvine disappeared (fall?); 1 porter and 1 Ghurka NCO died of illness
achievment: Possible success by Mallory and Irvine?
campsites:
  BC(28/04,5000m),C1(30/04,5400m),C2(02/05,6000m),C3(6600m),C4(7000m),C5(01/06,7700m),C6(03/06,8170m),xxx(08/06,8600m)


expid: EVER33101
peakid: EVER
year: 1933
route1: N Col-N Face
nation: UK
leaders: Hugh Ruttledge
approach: Sikkim->Chumbi Valley->Tibet
bcdate: 1933-04-17
smtdate: 1933-05-30
termdate: 1933-07-02
campsites:
  BC(17/04,5000m),C1(21/04,5400m),C2(26/04,6035m),C3A(02/05,6400m),C3B(08/05),C4(15/05,6950m),C5(22/05,7830m),C6(29/05,8350m),xxx(30/05,8570m)


expid: EVER34101
peakid: EVER
year: 1934
route1: N Col
nation: UK
leaders: Maurice Wilson
bcdate: 1934-04-14
smtdate: 1934-05-24
campsites: BC(14/04,5000m),C1(17/04,5400m),C2(18/04,6035m),C3(14/05,6400m),xxx(24/05,6900m)
accidents: Wilson's death
routememo:
  Email from Colin Wallace - 24 Jan 2007

  I have done a little bit of research on the names of the Sherpa's who were with Maurice Wilson on his Everest expedition. They were:
   
    Tewang Sherpa
    Rinzing Sherpa
    Tsering Sherpa
   
  This information is from Reinhold Messner's book 'The Crystal Horizon'.


expid: EVER38101
peakid: EVER
year: 1938
route1: E Rongbuk Glacier-N Col
route2: Main Rongbuk Glacier-N Col-N Face
nation: UK
leaders: H. W. Tilman
bcdate: 1938-04-09
smtdate: 1938-06-11
termdate: 1938-06-14
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to deep snow
campsites:
  BC(09/04,5000m),C1(13/04,5400m),C2(18/04,6035m),C3(26/04,6550m),C4(28/05,7000m),xxx; Lake-Camp(5485m),NFace-Camp(5790m),WSide-Camp(6550m),C4(05/06,7000m),C5(06/06,7800m),C6(08/06,8300m),xxx(11/06,8350m)


expid: EVER47101
peakid: EVER
year: 1947
route1: N Col
nation: Canada
leaders: Earl Denman
bcdate: 1947-04-08
smtdate: 1947-04-15
termdate: 1947-04-17
termnote: Abandoned below N Col due to high winds
campsites: BC(08/04),Biv1,Biv2,Biv3,Biv4,xxx(15/04,6800m)
achievment: Claimed altitude of 7150m
routememo:
  Denman claims to have reached 23,500 ft (7160m), but his guide Tenzing Norgay Sherpa says they stopped short of the N Col (perhaps 6800m).


expid: EVER52101
peakid: EVER
year: 1952
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Edouard Wyss-Dunant
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1952-04-20
smtdate: 1952-05-28
termdate: 1952-06-06
termnote: Abandoned at 8600m due to fatigue
campsites:
  BC(20/04,5050m),C1(25/04,5250m),C2(28/04,5600m),C3(06/05,6000m),C4(10/05,6450m),C5(14/05,6900m),Biv(25/05,7880m),C6(26/05,7950m),C7(27/05,8390m),xxx(28/05,8600m)


expid: EVER52301
peakid: EVER
year: 1952
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Gabriel Chevalley
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1952-10-07
smtdate: 1952-11-20
termdate: 1952-11-27
accidents: 1 Sherpa killed by ice avalanche, 2 porters died on approach march
campsites:
  BC(07/10,5050m),C1(08/10,5250m),C2(10/10,5600m),C3(6000m),C4(6450m),C5(26/10,6900m),C6(04/11,7100m),C7(14/11,7500m),C8(19/11,7880m),xxx(20/11,8100m)


expid: EVER52302
peakid: EVER
year: 1952
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USSR
leaders: Pavel Datschnolian
approach: Tibet
termnote: Attempt rumored
campsites: BC,C1,...,C8,xxx(8200m)
accidents: 6 climbers died of unknown causes
achievment: Russians claim this attempt never happened
routememo:
  Expedition rumored, but unconfirmed.

  Six climbers disappeared at C8.


  Evgeny Tamm - 2 Dec 81

  Mr Tamm, a 54-year-old physics researcher and experienced mountaineer living in Moscow, said through an interpreter that reports circulated in the west over the past decades that an unsuccessful Soviet attempt had been made on Everest from the Chinese side in 1952 were entirely wrong, and he appealed to the who attended his press conference (on the upcoming Soviet 1982 expedition) to correct what term "this disinformation."

  These reports, which he asserted had no foundation in fact whatsoever, had said that a very large Russian team led by Pawel Datshnolian had managed to send climber to an altitude of at least 8200m late in the autumn of 1952 on this 8848m giant mountain and then the leader and five others disappeared never to be seen again.

  Mr. Tamm said he did not want to guess who was responsible for these completely false reports. He said that no one in Soviet mountaineering had ever heard of a climber name Datschnolian.


expid: EVER53101
peakid: EVER
year: 1953
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: John Hunt
sponsor: British Expedition to Mt. Everest
ascent1: 1st
countries: New Zealand
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1953-04-12
smtdate: 1953-05-29
smttime: 1130
termdate: 1953-06-03
othersmts:
  Climbed Ambu Gyabjan (AMBG-531-01), Imjatse (IMJA-531-01), Kangchung Nup (KCHN-531-01), Pointed Peak (POIN-531-01), Pokalde (POKA-531-01) and Chhukung Tse (CHUK-531-01)

campsites:
  BC(12/04,5450m),C2(15/04,5900m),C3(22/04,6150m),C4.ABC(01/05,6460m),C5(03/05,6700m),C6(04/05),C7(17/05,7315m),C8(22/05,7950m),C9(28/05,8500m),Smt(29/05)


expid: EVER56101
peakid: EVER
year: 1956
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Albert Eggler
sponsor: Swiss Expedition to Everest and Lhotse 1956
ascent1: 2nd,3rd
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1956-04-07
smtdate: 1956-05-23
smttime: 1400
termdate: 1956-05-31
othersmts: Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-561-01) and Island Peak (IMJA-561-01)
campsites:
  BC(07/04,5450m),C1(11/04,5800m),C2(13/04,6100m),C3.ABC(18/04,6500m),C4(01/05,6950m),C5A(06/05,7500m),C6B(20/05,8000m),C7(22/05,8400m),Smt(23-34/05)


expid: EVER58301
peakid: EVER
year: 1958
route1: N side (recon)
nation: China
leaders: Xu Jing, Yevgeniy Beletski
countries: USSR
bcdate: 1958-11-17
smtdate: 1958-11-21
termdate: 1958-11-28
termnote: Recon only
campsites: BC(17/11,5000m),Biv1(5950m),Biv2(6400m),xxx(21/11,6500m)
routememo:
  Evgeny Tamm (Soviet 82 Everest exp) - 2 Dec 81

  There had been plans for a joint Soviet-Chinese expedition to Everest in 1959 and three Russian mountaineers had gone to the foot of Everest on the Chinese side on a reconnaissance. However the actual climb never took place "because of events in Tibet at that time."


  2 Oct 78

  According the Chinese Mountaineering Association officials, the Soviets backed out of a planned joint Sino-Soviet expedition in 1959 and the Chinese climbed alone in 1960.


  Alpine Journal, Vol 99 (1994)

  Team consisted of 10 Chinese and 3 Russian mountaineers, 3 meteorologists, 4 topographers, 4 radio operators, 10 Tibetan porters, and other assorted personnel.


  Mint Wu - April 2012

  First reconnaissance in such area by Chinese; people were divided in to 2 teams that reached up to east of eastern Rongbuk Glacier at 6500m and west of central Rongbuk Glacier at 6200m, respectively.


expid: EVER60102
peakid: EVER
year: 1960
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Shi Zhang-Chun
ascent1: 4th
bcdate: 1960-03-19
smtdate: 1960-05-25
smttime: 0205
campsites:
  BC(19/03,5120m),C1(25/03,5400m),C2(26/03,5900m),C3(27/03,6400m),C4(27/03,6600m),C5(7000m),C6(29/04,7400m),C7(02/05,8100m),C8(03/05,8500m),Smt(25/05)

routememo:
  Everest - 22 October 2008

  (See Li Zhi-Xin summmary below at end of this section.)


  Everest - 12 Nov 1996

  Spring 1960  - This summit claim is now gravely doubted by Reinhold Messner. Messner told me in September this year that after a long talk at Zangmu with a Tibetan Everest veteran of two later expeditions, it became clear that the 1960 summit party unsurmountable without the ladder (which his Tibetan helped to put in place in spring 1975 and thereby lost parts to six fingers to frostbite). The Chinese claim that the Second Step was surmounted by men standing on each other's shoulders is not credible, Messner says. His Tibetan did not state flatly that the 1960 team did not summit, he clearly did not credit their claim.


  Reinhold Messner - 17 Sept 1996
  Re: Chinese Everest 1960

  Rinzing Pingcho (at Zangmu) - Sep 1996

  After 1 hour talk by Messner in broken English, signs, etc, Messner who understands Tibetan says in 1960 Chinese turned back at 2nd Step, which is unsummitable without ladder. Chinese story of men on each others shoulders not credible. A fine ascent as first to reach this point after Mallory but surely not a successful ascent. This Tibetan lost 6 fingers from frostbite in 1975 helping to put in ladder and summited on Japan-China-Nepal traverse?

  Rinzing came to Zangmu to meet Messner because he had heard of him and wanted to meet him - did not flatly say 1960 climb not successful but clearly did not credit it.

  For Chinese to do Messner's route would have been very long and they didn't say they went that way.


  Samdrup, Wangjia & letter from TMA - March 1993

  Wang Ji, an assistant at Lan Zhou University, in April 1960 climbed to the top of the North Col, slightly over 7000m, and then developed pulmonary edema. He was sent down to advanced base at 6500m, but attempts to save him failed. He died in his tent and was cremated near the camp.


  Isono, 3 nation Everest - 27 Feb 1988
  Re: Chinese Everest 1960

  About 500 members including over 200 soldiers for transport from BC to ABC (from 5000m to 6500m), and including BC staff, doctors, communications personnel, journalists.
  Climbers: 150 total
  70 - above North Col (7000m)
  35 - above 7600m
  Was really a military exercise - Chinese sports committees are for military fitness.


  Naomi Uemura - 20 Jan 80

  Uemura believes Chinese reached Everest summit in 1960. Last summer he was in Peking and Lhasa regarding his own bid to bring expedition to Everest on north side and he met and talked with 1960 summiter. Their description of final climb fits his knowledge of top of Everest and rings true.

  1960 - Mr. Chu lost part index fingers 2nd finger right hand. 

  1. 214 including supply groups - reached up to 8000m 35 climbers
  2. NE Ridge route - sometimes a little bit off ridge but only a little
  3. not summit party - scouting party to find route
  4. Yes
  5. after reached 2nd Step no one's previous experiment to go by planned 
     to make it to top and return to C8 in 8 hours but took 36 hours. 
     assault camp below 1st Step of 20 m and lost 5 m very difficult 
     vertical. Had had no idea how difficult 2nd Step would be - did not 
     take ladder with then (so made human ladder because no written 
     material to tell them they needed it).
  6. sky was clear that night with light breeze. Not possible take photos 
     by starlight because had only cine camera with color film.
  7. Not true they could not find C8 on descent. Reached C8 at about
     9:00 pm 25 May Peking time.
  8. from 2nd Step to C8 10 am to 9 pm wind heavy snowfall and bad 
     visibility by cloud (fog) - slow to reach lower camps also delayed - 
     at 7900m stayed without camp on 26/27 May; reached there at nearly 
     midnight and unable to continue to C6 because of fog, frostbite, 
     very late, tired.
  9. Chu lost all toes and parts both feet and parts 2 fingers from frost
     bite - toes because he took off boots.
     At 7900m wished to fire pistol to ask for rescue but finger stuck 
     and could not fire it - no rescue.
     3 summiters 
       Wang  - frostbite finger and 1 toe
       Gonpa - slight frostbite finger
  10. No serious accidents and no death

                    1960     1975                         
  11. North Col     7007     7050
      Camp 6        7600     7790
      Assault camp  8300  C5 7790

  12. No revision


  Chinese expedition leader - 29 May 78

  In ascent of Everest in 1960 Chinese from whom modern mountaineering barely 4 years old, benefited greatly by assistance of others especially information of British.

  At 7600m found British oxygen, tents and new nylon rope - not sure whether Mallory and Irvine's or others - no bones.

  In 1960 body found at about 6000m - clothing on body - if touched, body fell apart, was buried by Chinese in snow - fix position of body with knees drawn up it appeared he died of cold.

  Summit time was 4:20 CST (2:05 NST)


  Li Zhi-Xin Summary - paraphrased from account on Chinese web site in October 2008

  1960 Chinese Everest Expedition

  On March 3, prior to the arrival of the main expedition, a large 192-member Chinese advance reconnaissance team arrived at base camp at 5120m. They explored the route up the East Rongbuk Glacier and established small depots at 5400m, 5900m, and 6400m, and also ferried up several kilograms of alpine equipment, food, and fuel that reduced the amount of transport needed to be done later by the main climbing team.

  On March 19, the primary expedition team members arrived at base camp at 5120m. The following week, with good weather forecasted by the meteorlogical team, the mountaineering team began their first acclimatization marches.

  On March 25, they went to the first camp at 5400m, a six-hour walk. At their campsite they discovered an abandoned cache of oxygen bottles, canned goods, and many used batteries with English letters on them. They speculated that they were from earlier British attempts.

  The next day, March 26, they continued on to the second camp at 5900m. On the following morning, they parted camp in fine weather, but reached the third camp at 6400m in cold windy weather. That same day a small reconnaissance team continued on to 6600m and spent the night there.

  During this period, the advance group completed the installation of a large tent city (ABC) at 6400m complete with a weather station and radio communications. Near ABC, Wang Zhenhua found the body of a dead mountaineer at the edge of the glacier lying in the remnants of a tattered tent. This was later determined to be the body of Maurice Wilson who disappeared on Everest in 1934.

  A reconnaissance team that included Wang Zhenhua, Liu Lianman, Peng Shuli, Xu Jing, and Wang Fengxiang began pushing a route up to the North Col. By March 31, they had climbed up to 6950m along a 30-degree, 200-meter long ice-alley just below the rim of the North Col. But due to inclement weather, they returned to the 6600m transit camp.

  During the next six weeks, the expedition set up camps at 7000m (North Col), 7400m, 7600m, 8100m and 8500m and stocked them with food and oxygen for the summit attempt.

  On May 13, the meteorlogical group reported a high-pressure air mass moving in and thus they forecast a period of several days of good weather before the onset of monsoon weather in early June. Thus the team decided to mount their summit attempt on May 15 with the goal of summiting on May 20. But due to a sudden change in weather, they postponed their start by two days.

  The summit team arrived in ABC at 6400m on May 17, and then moved up to the North Col the next day. On May 19, they proceeded to 7400m and on May 21 arrived at the 7600m camp. The next day on May 22, team members and 27 transport staff carried 250 kg of supplies up to the 8100m camp.

  On the afternoon of May 23, the final assault team of Xu Jing, Wang Fuchou, Liu Lianman, Gombu, and Qu Yinhua along with 9 support members (Guo Zhongyue, Qunze Jianbi, Dorje, Sonam Dorje, Mingma, Yunden, Tsering, Choegyal, and Mingma Tashi) reached the last camp at 8500m. Qu Yinhua was accompanying the assault team for filming. After depositing their loads, the 9 support members returned to 8100m.

  At 9:00 in the morning of May 24, while Xu Jing, Wang Fuchou, Liu Lianman and Gombu were climbing out of their tents in preparation to start, Xu Jing was injured by a sudden slip and was unable to continue. Qu Yinhua took his spot on the rope team.

  The assault team advanced along the mountain ridge. They each carried to two oxygen tanks with a regulator and mask in their backpack. In addition each carried an ice axe, several steel pitons, while Wang also brought a movie camera and Gombu brought a red flag with a wrapped statue of Chairman Mao and some movie film. Each packed weighed about 14 kg.

  At 12:00 they arrived at the Second Step at the foot of the cracks. Two hours later they came to a crack on the end of a large rock. This was where Shi Zhanchun and Wang Fengxiang had dug a hole and stayed overnight.

  On their right, there was a vertical rock wall four meters high. They saw no support points on the wall, only a small number of edges and corners that were unclimbable. Although there were a few small cracks on the wall about the width of a thumb, they were 1.5 meters apart and not conducive for climbing.

  Liu, fully protected by two pitons on the wall, tried three times to scale the wall, but stumbled down each time. Gombu and Qu tried twice, but both times came crashing down.

  Finally, Qu stood on the shoulders of Liu and placed several more pitons on the wall. More than an hour later, Qu climbed to the top of the wall and threw down a rope on which Gombu, Wang, and Liu scrambled up. By this time it was 17:00. They had spent seven hours to get to the top of the Second Step, three of those hours on just this four-meter high wall.

  After a short rest, they continued to move forward. Now above the Second Step, they crossed onto a snow slope at 8700m. At this time Liu became physically too ill to continue, slipping several times. The others set Liu down next to a large rock as a windbreak where there was no danger of falling rock.

  They also discovered that their oxygen supply was running out. They wrote in their memo: "After we climbed from 8500m to 8600m just below the Second Step, the oxygen level in each of the oxygen tanks we were using was only 40-50 units (160-200 liters). Because it would take us too much energy to carry two oxygen tanks up and we might use some oxygen when coming down, we decided to leave our used oxygen tanks below the Second Step and use the remaining one. When we arrived at 8700m at 19:00 on the 24th, our remaining oxygen was again just 40-50 units. Liu Lianman was too weak to continue. So we decided to leave him there with his oxygen tank. The three remaining team members then continued upwards."

  Now the time was 19:00 and to continue onward meant climbing in the dark for which there was no precedent.  After a brief conference, they decided to continue on since the sky was clear, the winds low, and the  original forecast was for deteriorating weather after May 25. More importantly, they felt that Communist Party and 600 million Chinese people were hoping for their success, so they could not pass up this opportunity when they were so close to the top.

  When they reached about 8750m, the sun had completely disappeared and they were now climbing in the dark, groping forward on their hands and feet trying to find proper footholds and avoiding loose, rolling stones. It was a very precarious situation.

  When they arrived at 8800m, they were basically out of oxygen. With each tank containing very little or no oxygen, they became very fatiqued. On the high, dangerous terrain, the team had to rely mostly on the oxygen in thin air to maintain their activities. At this moment of success or failure, the had to withstand the test of life or death. Their common belief was: "only forward, not backward."

  On their advance to the summit, the same to a small false summit. Only after seeing the nearby main summit, did they continue to move forward. The climbed up the summit on the west side of a rock pile, the final section of their journey. At 4:20, Wang Fuchou, Qu Yinhua, and Gombu stood on the summit of Mount Everest.

  Gombu took out from his backpack a five-star red flag and a statue of Mao Zedong, and using the flag as a wrap placed the bust of Mao on the summit.

  Although they had cameras with them, they could not take a summit photo due to the darkness of the night. After 15 minutes on top, the headed back downhill.

  When they reached the summit, a close examination of their oxygen tanks that two of them were running empty and the third was down to very low pressure. By the time they returned down to 8800m at 6:00 on May 25, they were completely out of oxygen.

  Then gradually daylight appeared and Qu who had been carrying a small film camera was able to photograph their footprints on the way to the summit. Then they climbed down to 8700m and rejoined Liu.

  Earlier when the three others left him on their way to the summit, he thought that there was no possibility of him surviving. So he spent a half-hour writing a short message to Wang:

  "Wang Fuchou: I know I cannot make it. I have some oxygen left in my tank. Maybe you can use it when you come back down. Farewell, comrades! Liu Lianman for your comrades. May 24"

  After writing the letter, Liu went to sleep. But with his good quality of training, he had acquired a strong physique that had adapted well to the high mountain altitude. With his strong will and the usefulness of the sleeping bag, he escaped death. After some sleep, he stood up again. Later when he saw Wang, Qu and Gombu, the first words came out of his mouth was to ask them to use the oxygen he saved. Touched by his acts. The three team members came into tears. The three team members shared the oxygen Liu saved for them. 

  When the four returned to the Second Step, the weather had changed to heavy snow with low visibility that made the walking much more difficult. They found the four oxygen tanks they had left earlier and started using them. Soon they emptied two tanks and carried the remaining two with them in case of emergency. Around 9:00 that evening they returned to the high camp at 8500m.

  At the 8500 meter camp, they had some discussions and decided to descend in groups. Gombu and Liu Lianman, who were physically stronger, were to descend within one day to ask for support and carry the good news of their summit. These two stopped only at 8100m to eat and went straight down to the North Col. Wang and Qu later descended to North Col on May 27th and arrived at 6400m camp on the 28th.

  Wang and Qu returned to the North Col (7000m) on May 27 and to ABC (6400m) on May 28.

  On May 30 at 13:30 they all returned to base camp. Wang, Gombu, and Qu were warmly welcomed.

  On June 1 at base camp, Xu Jing announced the final results on the mountain: in their mountaineering activities, a total of 53 climbers went to 7500m of which 28 climbers reached 8100m. This number amounts to 42.2% of all 69 times that climbers had arrived at this altitude from expedition teams from all over the world in the past 178 years. It was the first time in the world mountaineering history that so many people had arrived at this altitude (8100m) in one expedition.

  In the celebration ceremony, Xu Jing said, "The success in summiting Mt. Everest means the young Chinese mountaineering team, having just started 5 years earlier, has surpassed foreign mountaineering teams with over a 100-year history. It is the first success a Chinese mountaineering team has had to become among the world-class level teams." He added that the Chinese mountaineering had received numerous help from many countries. Especially in 1960, when China was only with her 4th year history in mountaineering and started expedition to Mt. Everest from the north side, we studied and learned from experiences of the British mountaineering teams. That later proved very helpful for this expedition. Each success is built on top of the efforts and failures from earlier forerunners and encourages new breakthroughs. These successes represent the breakthrough by the whole mankind. Later Guo added to the script of a speech given by Shi, "All members of our expedition team would like to dedicate our successful summit of Mt Everest to all people in the world who love peace. We wish world peace proves as invincible as Mt. Everest and wish the friendship among all people in the world prove as long-lasting and pure as Mt. Everest."


expid: EVER62101
peakid: EVER
year: 1962
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: John Dias
bcdate: 1962-03-29
smtdate: 1962-05-30
termnote: Abandoned at 8720m due to high winds
accidents: 1 Sherpa killed by falling rock below C4
campsites:
  BC(29/03,5360m),C1(01/04,5800m),C2(6560m),C3(07/04,6560m),C4(08/04,6830m),C5(06/05,7200m),C6(24/05,8000m),C7(28/05,8440m),xxx(30/05,8720m)


expid: EVER62102
peakid: EVER
year: 1962
route1: N Col-N Face
nation: USA
leaders: Woodrow Wilson Sayre
countries: Switzerland
approach: Gokyo Valley->Gyachung Kang (BC)->Nup La->Rongbuk Glacier (C7)
bcdate: 1962-04-24
smtdate: 1962-06-04
termdate: 1962-06-18
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to exhaustion
othersmts: Had permit for Gyachung Kang (GYAC-621-01)
campsites: BC(24/04,5030m),C1,...,C7,C8,C9,C10,C11,C12(31/05,7000m),C13,C14(7300m),xxx(04/06,7700m)
routememo:
  23 June 1962

  W Sayre arrived 3:50 Shanta Bhawan [Hospital]; will stay the night. 


  Sayre: 

  Sorry to cause so much trouble. The others are in better shape than I - I all night except my energy is nil. It was a st but my days are over.
  Hart had concussion.


  Dhyrenfurth:

  Others waiting to be collected tomorrow 6 am (Swiss may stay on with Germans); left camp time above ice flow. Then left liaison officer and 2 Sherpas; had 30-40 days food to about May 6th. Weren't lost but lot of traversing. Changed original plans, tried another route but still had to withdraw and then he'd several falls which weakened him. When returned to C2 found food had been evacuated and thus almost starved crawling on hands and knees to Khumjung. Sayre suffers complete exhaustion. All reached Khumjung yesterday, Sayre reached Namche yesterday or today.


  Narendra Bikram Shah - 20 June 1962

  Arrive Bisak 20th (May 2nd); all 3 Americans and 1 Swiss left base camp and liaison officer and Sherpas and since then not heard from; had 20 days rations only. Told liaison officer wait at Namche checkpost. 9 June not able to go search because of bad weather. Report from Namche Checkpost to KTM Ministry received 20 June.

  Base camp = Gyachung Kang
  Early report re 2nd camp possibly true

  Sherpas have also return to Namche.


  US embassy files:
    Roger Alan Hart, student, Lynn, MA

    Norman Christian Hansen
    Boston, Lawyer

    WW Sayre, teacher, MIT
    Lincoln, MA

    Swiss: Hanspeter Duttle


expid: EVER66101
peakid: EVER
year: 1966
route1: N Col (training, recon)
nation: China
leaders: Xu Jing
termnote: Abandoned at 8100 due to fatal fall
campsites: BC(5120m),C1(5000m),C2(5500m),C3(5900m),C4(6500m),C5(7030m),xxx(8100m)
routememo:
  Ad Carter - Aug 3, 1993

  The leader of the 1964 and 1966 Chinse Everest teams was Xu Jin.


  Samdrup, Wang Jia & letter from TMA - March 1993

  Ma Gao-Shu, a soldier in the Tibet Military Command, in May 1966 reached a campsite at 7790m, and in his descent lost his footing when was at 7450m and fell to his death. He was buried in the Xigazi (Shigatse) Cemetary of Revolutionary Martyrs. 

  Following the West's doubts about the success of the Chinese ascent of Everest in 1960, there would be another expedition in 1967. They would climb to the summit and would also carry out other assignments including determining the exact height of Everest. In preparation for this, teams would go to Everest in 1964 and 1966. The climbing in all three years would in general be the same as that followed in 1960 and by their British predecessors: to the North Col and from there to the North Ridge.

  The spring 1964 party was composed of about 20 climbers who were led by either Shi Zhang-Chun, the leader in 1960, or Xu Jin. Their tasks were to determine the exact climbing route, carry up supplies of oxygen for the final ascent, and demonstrate their climbing abilities to the selectors of the 1967 team. Six or seven in this party reached a high point of 8100m.

  The group who went to Everest in 1966 were an entirely different sort. Instead of being mountaineers as in 1964, these were mostly soldiers with no climbing experience who were now ordered to go to the mountain by the leaders of the Cultural Revolution, which was in its early phase. There were 60 altogether, 20 of whom were to do serious climbing while the rest were to conduct scientific research up to about 6500m. They got to a high point of a campsite at 7790m but were not capable of going any higher.

  Then the Cultural Revolution took a different line and all further mountaineering was suspended.

accidents:
  1 confirmed dead in fall; rumored many others dead (24?) because of insufficient equipment and reliance on Mao thoughts


expid: EVER70102
peakid: EVER
year: 1970
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
route2: SW Face (to 8050m)
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiromi Ohtsuka
ascent1: 12th,13th
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1970-03-23
smtdate: 1970-05-11
smttime: 0910
termdate: 1970-05-21
accidents: 1 Sherpa killed by icefall; 1 member died of heart attack
campsites:
  BC(23/03,5350m),Dep(5800m),C1(04/04,6150m),C2(16/04,6450m),C3(18/04,6950m),C4(26/04,7500m),C5(26/04,7986m),C6(10/05,8513m),Smt(11-12/05); SWFaceC2.ABC(17/04,6600m),C3(18/04,7000m),C4(06/05,7500m),xxx(10/05,8050m)


expid: EVER71301
peakid: EVER
year: 1971
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Argentina
leaders: Hector Cativa Tolosa
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1971-09-14
smtdate: 1971-10-30
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to high winds
campsites:
  BC(14/09),C1(17/09,6065m),C2(19/09,6450m),C3(21/09,6950m),C4(7400m),C5(28/10,7950m),xxx(30/10,8100m)


expid: EVER75102
peakid: EVER
year: 1975
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Shi Zhang-Chun
ascent1: 18th
approach: Lhasa->Rongbuk
bcdate: 1975-03-13
smtdate: 1975-05-27
smttime: 1215
achievment: 2nd ascent by a woman
campsites:
  BC(13/03),C1(5500m),C2(6000m),C3(6500m),C4(7000m),C5(27/04,7600m),C6(04/05,8200m),C7(8600m),Smt(27/05)

routememo:
  Samdrup (Tibetan Manaslu leader) - 3 April 96

  Chinese Everest in 1975 2 bodies were found:
   1) on East Rongbuk Glacier at 6400m, and 
   2) on North Ridge at 8100m (clothes touched by Wang Honbas)

  No old bodies found - 1 member of '75 team died


  Letter from TMA - March 20, 1993

  Wu Zhoung-Yue, a deputy political commissar, who had climbed to 8500m on Everest in 1960 and to the summit of Xixabangma in 1964, now on May 4, 1975, got to 8100m and then had a fatal fall.


  Hisano, 3-nation Everest - 27 Feb 88

  Chinese Everest 1975.
  About 500 members altogether (as in 1960) including:
  Over 200 soldiers for Transport from BC (5000m) to ABC (6500m)

  BC staff
  doctors
  communications personnel, journalist

  Climbers: 150 total
    70 above North Col (7000m)
    35 above 7600m

  Really a military exercise - Chinese sports committees are established for military fitness.

  Note: For the Himalayan Database, allocate 134 at 3:1 (Hired:Members ratio)
    35 climbing members
    99 hired members


  Chinese Mountaineering Expedition Successfuly Ascends World's Highest Peak - Qomolangma Feng

  Lhasa May 27, 1975 -- Just as the Chinese people are engaged in an enthusiastic study of the theory of the dictatorship of the proleteriat, a heartening news was flashed in from China's southwestern frontiers: nine members (one woman and eight men) on the Chinese mountaineering expedition successfully ascended the qomolangma feng (mount jolmo lungma)...the highest peak in the world...from its northern slope at 14:30 hours peking time today.

  The first Chinese woman who stepped on the highest point on earth is Phanthog of Tibetan nationality, deputy leader of the expedition. The eight male summiteers are: Sodnam Norbu (Tibetan), Darphuntso (Tibetan), Kunga Pasang (Tibetan), Tsering Tobgyal (Tibetan) and Ngapo Khyen (Tibetan). Their sterling performance today followed the pioneering feat of three other Chinese mountaineers, Wang Fu-chou, Konbu of Tibetan nationality and Chu Yin-hua who reached the summit from its forbidding northern face on May 25, 1960.

  This tremendous victory for China's mountaineering movement was won as a result of the king attention of Chairman Mao and the party central committee, the warm support given by people to surmount the numerous difficulties by relying on their own collective wisdom and strength. It is a measure of the new level attained by Chinese mountaineers after being tempered in the great proleterian cultural revolution and the movement to criticize Lin Piao and Confucius. The first ascent of the peak from the north by a Chinese woman climber in particular has brought into relief the invincible revolutionary spirit of Chinese woman after repudiating the reactionary fallacy of "man being superior to woman" preached by Lin Piao and his master Confucius.

  Setting out from the final assault camp pitched at 8680m above sea level this morning, the nine Chinese climbers reached the summit after a strenuous six and a half hours march, filled with a sense of pride and joy, they radioed to base camp at 14:30 Peking time that all of them had successfully reached thte pinnacle of the earth. They unfurled a five star red flag, erected a three metre high red metal surveying pole with the Chinese characters meaning "the mountaineering expedition of the people's republic of China," took photos and shot lengths of film about the summit, measured the thickness of the snow accumulation, and undertook radio remote-controlled cardiogram tests. These created highly important conditions and provided invaluable data for Chinese scientific workers to establish the exact height of the Qomolangma Feng and carry out relevant research.

  Activities of the expedition started in mid-March this year. The mountaineering expedition set up their base camp at Rongbuk monastery 5000 meters above sea level and, in the course of four acclimatization marches, built five altitude camps at 5500m, 6000m, 6500m, 7000m and 7600m above sea level respectively. then during the fifth march beginning from May 17, they built camp six and the final assault camp at 8200m and 8600m above sea level respectively. During their acclimatization marches and the final assault on the summit, the Chinese climbers, with lofty aspirations to win honour for the great leader chairman Mao and the great socialist motherland, defied hardships and death, surmounted difficulties and pressed forward valiantly, braving the rarity of oxygen severe cold under 30 degrees below zero centigrade, altitude, winds of whole gale and greater force, they overcame a host of difficulties on their march and triumphantly fulfilled this glorious and arduous tast with indomitable heroic spirit of daring to struggle and win and after undergoing all kinds of hardships.

  This expedition had tremendous support in various forms from the Tibet autonomous region, the Tibetan people, many provinces, municipalities and the autonomous regions in other parts of the country and the people's liberation army. Members of the summit party and personnel engaged in weather forecasting, scientific survey and study, transport and communications and other activities, under the leadershiop of the expedition party committee, worked in close coordination and finally won this brilliant victory.


expid: EVER78101
peakid: EVER
year: 1978
route1: N Ridge (recon, training)
nation: China
leaders: Tian Bao
countries: Iran
smtdate: 1978-05-21
termnote: Reconnaissance to 7500m
campsites: xxx(21/05,7500m)
accidents: 1 film-man died of illness
routememo:
  Samdrup, Wang Jia & letter from TMA - March 1993

  Shi Ming-Ji, a cameraman from the China News Film Studio, in May 1978 suffered a cerebral hemorrhage and died at only 5700m. 

  Shi was with a Sino-Iranian reconnaissance party preparing for a joint expedition in the following year, a climb that never actually took place because of the overthrow of the Shah and the Iranian revolutionary leaders' rather different perspective on climbing Everest. Samdrup added that this reconnaissance was carried out by 40 Chinese and about 15 Iranians. Only one Iranian and about ten Chinese went as high as a campsite at 7500m.

  For Himalayan Database, allocate 3:1 (Hired:Members) ratio for Chinese
    25 climbers (15 Iranians + 10 Chinese)
    30 hired members (30 Chinese)


expid: EVER78102
peakid: EVER
year: 1978
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Wolfgang Nairz
ascent1: 24th-27th
countries: Italy, UK, W Germany
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1978-03-24
smtdate: 1978-05-03
smttime: 0810
termdate: 1978-05-20
accidents: 1 Sherpa died in icefall
achievment: 1st ascent without oxygen (Messner and Habeler)
campsites:
  BC(24/03,5340m),C1(02/04,6050m),C2(03/04,6400m),C3(13/04,7200m),C4(24/04,7980m),C5(02/05,8500m),Smt(03,08,11,14/05)

routememo:
  Ang Phu - 16 May 1978

  Not correct 2 bottles were found to be missing after Messner and Habeler climbed. Messner and Habeler had 2 bottles with them in C4 and these 2 used by 3rd summit team.

  Habeler not sick in May; had recovered health.

  No Sherpas at C4 on 8 May because Sherpas needed for load carrying from lower camps for next summit assault.

  People don't realize Messner's and Habeler's strength, stamina and experience. They have gone for 5-7 days on previous expeditions without food. Most people take 1 to 1-1/2 hours from C1 to BC but Messner took 20 mins.

  Not true about Messner's face not properly sunburned; he had beard and lots of lip salve.

  Correct that Messner threatened Mingma Norbu, but dagger or knife in Messner's rucksack was on Mingma's back.

  Messner imperious, not good relations with Sherpas.


  Parajuli - 15 Jun 78

  Ang Tshering and Shambu Tamang do not agree with Sherpa doubts regarding Everest without oxygen.


  Netra Baratawa, Press
  Nepal Trekking Association press conference - 14 Jun 78

  Lhakpa Tenzing and Pertemba agree with statement and Dawa Gyalzen of Austria Everest Expedition (DG went to Col with Messner in May) regarding attempt without oxygen, good deed but some things not clear.

  1) Time of ascent - Sonam Gyalzen, Baratawa and others summiters asked Tourism for proof: Tourism said have accepted since signed by LO.

  2) in press conference in KTM; no opportunity to question them here so talked with expedition's Sherpas. When Habeler got sick and turned back, Sherpa named Mingma Nuru also said he wanted to turn back also between C2 and C3 because not well. Messner said he had dagger in bag and if you don't come, I will stab you, throw in crevasse and no one will know what happened to you (Mingma Nuru now in Khumjung). Messner had shown knife at BC. This incident happened day before reached Col in April. 3 Sherpas went on up and established C4 on Col. Arrived 3 US masks and regulator (1976 US expedition left 30 full cylinders on Col). 

  On descent, Mingma reaches C2 one hour ahead of Messner. Messner most of time carried only his toilet paper not even his camera. If he physically weaker than Sherpa, how can he make such rapid ascent in May?

  At C2 Habeler says he will use oxygen, Bergmann showed him how. When they go up from C2, team carried 2 full oxygen cylinders, masks and regulators. Sherpas reached Col 10 minutes ahead of Messner and Habeler and far ahead of Jones. 4 or 5 cylinders in tents, some with oxygen and Habeler asked Dawa for 2 more cylinders. Then Messner told Sherpas then to go down to C2 and doing descent met Jones at Yellow Band and would have taken at least 2-1/2 hours to reach Col. Had told Sherpas next day Messner and Habeler would go only to C5.

  At 2:00 pm this next day they spoke from Col to BC that they had reached summit. This means impossibly short time to go to summit and return to Col that night Messner. Habeler and Jones slept at C4. Next day Messner and Habeler reached C2. Jones more seriously frostbitten than Messner, but he only to C3 that day.

  Messner and Habeler told Jones night before went to top then would do recce and day after. When woke up on summit [day], found Messner and Habeler had already left Col, Jones said. Jones involved commercially in BC, talked with LO.

  Sirdar asks Gyalzen to report how many cylinders are on Col; should be 2 Messner and Habeler took and 4 carried up on day after Messner and Habeler to top.

  Gyalzen with Oelz and Karl: should be 16 French cylinders there - this discrepancy discussed at BC by Sherpas with sirdar and sirdar said maybe used while sleeping. Messner lips not burned - would not be if wore mask. Why no Sherpas in C4 and even C3 very night before Messner and Habeler ascent.

  C1 then Messner is super human or Everest is easy.
   
  Habeler was sick from altitude all along - how could he move so fast?

  Why we doubt: it is not practical, not scientific, not logical to have gone without oxygen within mentioned listed time - if they can change time.


  Tenzing

  From South Col without oxygen to summit and back in 6 hours. I don't think it possible.

  Hillary and Tenzing from Ridge to top and back to Col 4 hours with oxygen. If going up in 8 hours okay.

  Not quarrelling whether went to top, only question is whether without oxygen; also doubt speed and were Sonam Gyalzen, 1973 Italian Chotare and Pemba Norbu, Korean 1977.


  Letter of Tenzing to Ministry of State for Tourism

  It is not impossible to reach top of Everest without oxygen, but claim by Messner and Habeler to have made speed record, I very anxious to know:

  - whether Messner and Habeler climbed without oxygen and Sherpa help in
    period of time claimed,

  - during climb to top always been Nepalese national at Col and during
    this climb Sherpa with Messner asked to return. In C3 also no person.

  In my opinion, not impossible to climb Everest without oxygen but claim of Messner and Habeler about time spent in a matter of wonder.


  Letter of 6 Sherpas to Ministry of State for Tourism:

  With oxygen takes South Col to C5 4 hours,
  C5 to summit 6 hours, summit to col 4 hours.

  Claim of Messner and Habeler unbeliveable.

  1973 Japanese - South Col 6:00 am to 4:30 pm on top and on return had to stay night at South Summit.

  Himalayan of 8000m oxygen is necessary as is known to Minister so how Messner and Habeler without oxygen able to reach summit from South Col in that such short time. 

  With an experience, we doubt and anxiety regarding oxygen-less claim; we want proof of no oxygen.


  Bobby Chhetri, MT - 14 Jun 78

  Sherpas went yesterday to Tourism Ministry to dispute Messner-Habeler claim of climbing Everest without oxygen. Sherpas were told PM, Bista, has stated they did so unless proof can be produced. Tourism will take no action.

  Sherpas have no proof. No one claims to have seen them use oxygen or claims oxygen bottles were empty after they had had them in their tent.

  Messner not popular with Sherpas: this probably their way of getting back at him. One Sherpa says Messner pulled a knife and threatened to kill him if he didn't carry load when he was very tired.


  SR Sharma, Tourism - 9 May 78

  Success again. Messner and Habeler started on 8 May from C4 at South Col 6:00 am. Without oxygen for climbing they reached top at 12 noon stayed for a short time on summit and returned via C5 to the Col and C4 when arrived at 2:30 pm.

  Next summit team: 4 to C3 9 May.


  Letter from W. Nairz, BC - May 7, 1978 

  Returned to BC. Some lines before the mailrunner leaves tomorrow morning. As you heard, we could reach the top of Everest on May 3. We started on South Col the day before. It was with 5 Sherpas we carried up all the things for establishing the last [camp] in 8500m.

  On May 3 was in the morning strong wind, so that we started at 8:10 hours. At 12:50 hours we reached the summit. It was a beautiful day without wind and only little bit cloudy, so that we could stay on the summit for 1-1/2 hours. We took a lot of pictures and also the Chinese tripod was to see, about 1 m high.

  On the way down to C5 we took 1 hour 10 min and than we went on to South Col, where we reached about 7 pm.

  On the next day we went on to C2 and after this to the BC.

  The next group, Dr Margreiter, H. Schell and H. Hagner went up to C3 on May 4, but a lot of fresh snow made the way to the South Col impossible.

  Today R. Messner and P. Habeler reached South Col again and if the weather will do, then they will try again without oxygen in the next days. Also the next group Dr. Oelz, J. Knoll, F. Oppurg and R. Karl followed today to C1 and will go on the next days.


  Letter from Werner Kopacka - May 7th, 1978

  There are great things happening here: Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler reached Camp 4 (South Col, 7986m) today without oxygen and are trying to get to the summit tomorrow. We'll be getting the news (success or not) later tomorrow evening, and that's too late for the Tuesday plane. Therefore our request: we'll be sending a runner to the Namche checkpost, as soon as we know that we had been happening on the mountain. There the news will be transmitted to you immediately. 


  Letter from Ronald Faux - Shyangboche, 28 April

  A severe storm on Everest 28,029 ft, has defeated Reinhold Messner first attempt to climb the mountain without oxygen. Messner was ready to set out alone from the South Col on Tuesday until then the Austrian expedition supporting the attempt has made rapid progress up the South Col route first climbed 25 years ago by Hillary and Tenzing.

  Messner aged 33, of Italy, had climbed to camp five at 26,000 ft and was "feeling fit." According to reports from BC then the storm ended the long spell of good weather, badly damaging tents and equipment in the South Col and forcing Messner to a lower camp. He said on the radio "it was appalling weather. For two nights, I did not sleep. I am going down to recover and then I will try again."


  Letter from Wolfgang Nairz, BC - April 5,1978

  On April 3, one day after Camp 1 was established, Reinhold Messner and P. Habeler could make the way up to C2, what we will extend as advanced BC. It was in a height of approx 6400-6450m.

  They have had a very bad night in C2, because of strong wind, also the members from C1 came all down yesterday because of the wind.

  Today we started again and 4 members stayed in C1, and extend tomorrow in C2 (ABC). Also the load transport from BC to C1 and from C1 to C2 is now in full action. With Ang Phu and Sherpas we are very happy, they are very strong and work very well.


  Letter from W Nairz, BC - April 2, 1978

  Finally we got all equipment today. The last days we did a lot of work in the upper part of the icefall and we could reach yesterday the place for C1. Today we will establish C1. I hope that it is possible, because the last part of the way still has to be assured with ladders and fixed ropes.

  R. Messner and P. Habeler will stay tonight in C1 and try to find tomorrow the way in the Western Cwm.

  The upper part of the icefall is very difficult and very dangerous, but I think we found the best possible way. The Sherpas all say that the icefall this year is more dangerous than the years before.

  The Sherpas work very well and we are very content with them. The next days if the way up to C1 is fixed, we will start with the load-transport up to C1.


  W Nairz, BC - 26 March

  On March 24th all arrived BC well except the Liaison officer. He didn't feel good and stayed for one more day and arrived yesterday.

  He said not necessary to send a report with this mail, so we will do it with the next on Thursday. The icefall looks not so bad and the advanced group did already half the way through the icefall. They found an objective safeway. In the upper part one some great crevasses and we start tomorrow to prepare the way with fixed ropes and ladders. All members feel well and are desirous to come to the mountain.


  Everest BC May 8 from Ronald Faux

  Everest has been climbed without oxygen, Reinhold Messner, aged 33 of Italy and Peter Habeler, aged 35, of Austria supported by the Austrian Everest expedition, reached the summit at noon on May 8. Their historic climb, 25 years after the first conquest of Hillary and Tenzing, settles an old argument that has gone on since the earliest explorations of the mountain by British expedition 57 years ago. The highest point on earth can be reached purely without artificial aid.

  Carrying only a camera, emergency kit and a light rope the two climbers reached the summit in an alpine style ascent in five and a half hours from the South Col. This was remarkably fast even by the standards of climbers using oxygen. The descent was even more remarkable. Peter Habeler, a professional ski instructor with a keen sense of balance, slid on his bottom from below the South Summit of the mountain for much of the 28,000 ft to the South Col. After a series of precarious slides he debouched onto the col in an avalanche of snow and feathers as his down suit burst. Messner followed at a more sedate pace, arriving one and three quarters of an hour later. Both men were in good condition and the highest spirits. Later in the evening Messner's whose thumb had been frostbitten from taking photographs on the summit, complained of snow blindness.

  The news broke at BC at 2:30 pm with a radio message relayed from C2 on the mountain. Dr. Oswald Oelz, a member of the fourth summit party, his voice breaking with excitement announced "Everest has been climbed without oxygen. Peter has just arrived at the South Col."

  Mr Eric Jones, the Welsh climber who accompanied Messner and Habeler to the South Col filmed the start and finish of their climb and is to join a later attempt on the summit using oxygen.

  The pair had waited more than two days at more than 7000m for the weather to clear before starting out on their attempt. They spent an uncomfortable night on the South Col in minus 35 degree and 40 kt winds.

  "We had to wriggle our toes all night long but we had never felt better or more fit. In the morning the wind was blowing strongly over the South Col and there were gusts of snow. We had hoped for a miracle and it did not seem there wasa to be one. The miracle came later Messner said.

  They moved quickly to the South Summit keeping to outcrops of rocks and avoiding where possible the deep new snow. They climbed unroped to the Hillary Step just before the summit ridge. By then Habeler complained that he could not feel his arms but they still made rapid progress, taking 40 steps or more before resting. On the top the wind was strong, blowing a wild flurry of spindrift from the ridge.

  On the return Messner watched astonished as his partner sat down on the steep snow and accelerated away to the South Col. "I experimented briefly and wore only a small hole in my trousers" he told me over the radio, "it was not a happy try, I kept veering towards Tibet. Peter said he felt too tired to descend any other way."

  The climb was a particular triumph for Peter Habeler who three days ago had asked to join a oxygen party to attempt the summit. He had been deeply impressed by descriptions from the first summit party of the agony of removing their oxygen mask. When he had been told that he would have to join the end of the queue, Habeler changed his mind and decided to stay with his original climbing partner. Messner has now climbed four peaks over 8000 meters without oxygen - Nanga Parbat, Hidden Peak, Manaslu & Everest. During his climb on Nanga Parbat his brother was killed in an avalanche.


  Everest BC - May 8

  Nature played a mischievous trick when Everest at stopped growing at 29,028 ft. One further heave in the convulsions that produced the Himalayas would have put the summit positively out of human reach without artificial aid. the physics spent days on and clambering around the high reaches of the mountain's North Face. Some remain brightly alive to tell the story and the question of whether the highest point on earth can be reached without an artificial supply of oxygen remains tantalisingly open. The challenge grew as mountaineering at its highest and most committed levels trended away from the armony of the modern technician. Among the present generation of climbers one man springs to mind as having the experience and the physical and mental toughness to reach the top of Everest without oxygen.

  Reinhold Messner from the South Tyrol had made a speciality of reaching summits over 8000m without the cumbersome oxygen equipment that adds to the cost of an expedition puts a formidable load on the shoulders of sahibs and Sherpas alike, and in the Messner view, robs the climb of its aesthetic purity.

  He has united with the Austrian Everest Expedition which already has put four men on the summit, but is scathing about a number of the members who in his view put on their oxygen apparel long before the summit. To start using oxygen at 7200m is to make Everest a smaller mountain.

  The risks are great both from the physical deterioration that occurs without oxygen at high altitude and the brain damage than can be caused. Dr. Oswald Oelz, one of the expedition's doctors believes Messner can succeed. "We know that British climbers reached high up hte mountain 50 years ago. That was great achievement with oxygen. We also now have vastly improved equipment and much better knowledge about the medical aspects of high altitude climbing. Added to that every metre of the route is well known. Someone some day will succeed."

  The gentlemen, Messner and his small party, are aesthetically making their way up the mountain. The player, nine other members of the Austrian team are busily drawing up lists that will ensure that everyone bar the expedition dog will reach the summit. Mr Leo Dickinson and Mr Eric Jones from Wales are among the potential summit parties.

  Late on Friday the first three Austrians to reach the top with a Sherpa came stumbling out of the night back to base camp. Mr. Wolfgang Nairz, leader, was eager to return to the South Col with a hang glider in the hope of improving on his own world record for a high alititude launch achieved when he flew from the summit of Noshaq, a 7000-meter peak in the Hindu Kush.

  So one can detect several ambitions on this expeditions which has not been without its share of troubles in spite of rapid early progress. One Sherpa has died in the Ice Fall and another dramatically rescued after he suffered a heart attack at more than 26,000 ft which left him partly paralysed. Eric Jones has cause to wonder at the risk-reward ratio for the Sherpas after he fielded one in the early stages of a 1000 ft dive. "I had just clipped into a piece of old Korean rope sticking out of the ice when I looked round and saw Dawa trip up on an unprotected stretch of the Lhotse face. He started to fall head first and I dived out and caught him round the waist. We both ended up dangling from the bit of old rope. Fortunately the Korean had done a good job and it held."

  A second near disaster happened when Leo Dickinson and Mr. Werner Kopacka, an Austrian journalist, were climbing through the treacherous Khumbu Icefall. Suddenly a small area of ground beneath Mr. Kopacka opened up in the manner of a trap door and he disappeared without a sound. Mr. Dickinson appeared down the hole and saw his partner pinned painfully by the knees above a green void. "We had no hope so I ran to the nearest crevasse ladder and dismantled it. This gave me 30 ft. I lowered one end to Werner and tied the other around my waist. Werner moved and slid further into his crevasse pulling me towards the edge. I let out the slack rope and jumped into a parallel crevasse to act as a counter weight. Werner then freed his ice axe and started chipping steps in the walls of his crevasse." As Werner rose, Leo descended in the manner of the Hoffnung barrel with the added denoument that when he emerged triumphant from his crevasse he would be immediately plucked into Leo's. They resolved the position by surfacing simultaneously and taking photographs of each other.

  The Messner bid has fitted amicably into the Austrian expedition and the Italian climber was the first to arrive at all but one of the camps strung out between the foot of the Ice fall and the summit ridge. The logistics have been unusual with the first camp lying well into the Western Cwm, the second three quarters of the way towards Lhotse, the third halfway up the Lhotse Face and the fourth on the South Col. The ridge camp, a sturdy remnant of the Korean expedition last September, is the last before the summit.

  The communal tent at Base is sharply different from the dark cave I recall on the British and Nepalese Army expedition two years ago. That had the air of a NAAFI that had fallen on hard times. The Austrians have invested the same four walls with a much more cheerful atmosphere. A light waterproof forms the roof giving a permanent air of sunshine. There is a flowered tablecloth, garlic sausages hanging from the roof beam and the Nepalese Everest.

  Wolfgang Nairz made it clear today that there were supplies enough to support two more groups attempting the summit after the "gasless" bid. He and Horst Bergmann, aged 36, a car body repairer from Innsbruck would then fly their kites from the South Col and everyone could go home.


expid: EVER78302
peakid: EVER
year: 1978
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Pierre Mazeaud
sponsor: French Expedition to Mount Everest
ascent1: 29th
countries: Austria, W Germany
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1978-08-29
smtdate: 1978-10-15
smttime: 1335
othersmts: Permission for Lhotse (LHOT-783-02)
campsites:
  BC(29/08,5400m),C1(02/09,6000m),C2(09/09,6500m),C3(18/09,7050m),C4(27/09,7600m),C5(30/09,8000m),Smt(15/10)

routememo:
  Kurt Diemberger - 24 Oct 78

  Correct that he and Mazeaud were at least 10 minutes behind Afanassieff and Yaeger reaching summit, more like 30 minutes probably. Clear weather, but no tripod visable. Oxygen dump about 8350m or 8400m. 


  Mazeaud - 23 Oct 78

  French C3 and C4 on Everest destroyed by avalanching. German at C3 hurt but not so bad.


  Diemberger - 20 Oct 78

  He and last of French came by helicopter this evening from BC. All off mountain today or tomorrow and all safe, no frostbite. "Incredible." Many German members but not into Icefall. Kirchberger and Ritter with oxygen in very strong wind; reached BC afternoon and evening.

  Lhotse: up Everest, I go for Everest. I go up Lhotse, I go for Messner; for others, too tired after Everest.


  Herrligkoffer & Hillmaier at Airport - 18 Oct 78

  Hillmaier, Kustermann and Herrligkoffer on today in KTM.
  Yesterday last German party to top:
    Kullmann
    Ritter without oxygen from BC (Diemberger says Ritter used oxygen)
  Think succeeded; good weather yesterday.

  Hillmaier: at 5 pm on summit, very late; very much snow on top, we were 1 meter higher than earlier summiters; could not find tripod.

  Hillmaier: I am best friend of Mazeaud; made camps with Mazeaud; no French-German quarrels. Hillmaier went with German group to top because Sherpas went down and he had rope they needed for Hillary Step. Climbing Everest not easy, very different from South Summit and Hillary Step.

  Herrligkoffer: 2 Sherpas and Engl no oxygen at any time, like Ritter.

  Miss Wanda not so strong and needed oxygen; she comes to BC today.

  Mazeaud came tomorrow or day after (capt says Mazeaud today).

  No more attempts on Everest and Lhotse.
  Not true camps destroyed on Lhotse face.

  Afanassieff and Jaeger skiing not in one smooth run: from 8200m to C2 in 1 hour; C2 to C1 two hours and stayed night at C1.

  Herrligkoffer: made publicity for German-French friendship. Mazeaud and Herrligkoffer have good relations.
   
  Left South Col yesterday 8:00 am for top
  Hillmaier: Today storm coming from North Lhotse

  So much time - defeat on 9 Oct very bad for morale.


  Capt. Upadhyaya, RNAC flight - 18 Oct 78

  Flew this morning to Pheriche for HRA cargo and returned 10:45 am. Weather exceptionally clear in Everest area and no wind.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 17 Oct 78

  Seven on top:
    Sigfried Hupfauer
    Allenbach
    Klimek
    Ang Kami
    Mingma
    Ang Dorje
  with oxygen in 6 hours from South Col, half hour on summit, reached top at 13:45 hours yesterday; are still now coming down to C2 at 17:15 hours. They are all well.

  Left South Col yesterday at 7:40 am and still coming down to C2 now; last night probably at Col. This makes 14 total on top.

  Afanassieff and Jaeger yesterday went up to 8250m and skied from there to C1 at 6000m; now in BC.

  2 Germans left South Col this am: 
    Georg Ritter
    Bernd Kullmann


  Shailendra Raj Sharma - 17 Oct 78

  Herrligkoffer arrive KTM tomorrow am

  No contact BC-South Col today. BC to C2 Ok and as of 2:00 pm today no news has reached C2 about yesterday's attempt. No contact from BC above C2 today. No definite news others going up, but LO expected yesterday's group to be last attempt. Mazeaud reached C2 yesterday and arrived at BC today.

  C3 and C4 destroyed by avalanche between 1st German assault and French assault: when Germans came down on 15th they found both camps missing.

  Germans were to reach C2 about 2:00 pm today. Now (2 pm) celebrating at BC heavily. Yesterday Germans (all 6 in team) were seen last evening going up 4:00 pm from C2.

  Weather yesterday and today good. Probably no more French will go up: Walter Cecchinel has leg problem, Raymond Despiaux too tired. J-F Mazeaud not supposed to go to summit from very beginning.

  3:30 pm: still no news at BC about Germans team of 6 climbers.
  Mazeaud not coming to KTM on 18th; in BC all happy - very good weather.

  Herrligkoffer to Germany on 19th.
  Mazeaud not decided about Lhotse.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma - 16 Oct 78

  Today's summit party left Col at 7:30 this morning. No further news as of 4-5 pm to Sharma. Walkie-talkies of Germans not working, so climbers must reach Col before success or failure can be known.


  Doug Scott - 14 Oct 78

  German and French BC and C1 camps next to each other
  German and French C2's 30m apart but maybe necessary because of terrain.
  C3's are 200m apart with French C3 200m lower than German
  C5 : German C4 is the Col
  C4 : French C4 is at 7600m
  C5 : French C4 at Col

  Scott was at Everest BC on 11-12th - left 12th am

  9th Mazeaud, Diemberger and Hillmaier reached Col and couldn't find tents, oxygen, etc,; so deep in snow (tents perhaps not pitched) so came down after dark.
  10th very windy - no movement up - Mazeaud to C2. 
  11th Mazeaud and Diemberger left C2 starting up with intention of going to Col that day, picking up member/Sherpas on way up.

  Mazeaud not permitting any other French to summit first; wants this to make him politically prominent again. "Not healthy really." Mazeaud also trying to be the leader controlling the logistics; can't do this from the front.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 15 Oct 78

  Yesterday Mack, Hillmaier and Engl reached summit: 
    Mack      4:30 
    Hillmaier 5:00
    Engl      5:15    
  Started from South Col at 10:00 am yesterday. Engl without oxygen from Col.

  Came down to South Col between 8:00 and 9:00 pm and today left Col today for C2. All three in good condition.

  Mazeaud, Diemberger, Nicholas Jaeger and Jean Afanassieff left Col with oxygen at 4:30 am today going up - may reach summit between 1:00 and 2:00 today.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma - 14 Oct 78, 5:45 pm

  Mack, Hillmaier and Engl left so Col at 6:30 am with Mazeaud and Diemberger and Ang Dawa. Returned to south Col at 5:35 pm today with Sherpa Ang Dawa. They were seen descending at 4:15 by Afanassieff who was at Col. They had reached 8450m and dumped oxygen there and turned back because of lack of oxygen to go to summit and return.

  Mack, Hillmaier and Engl left other at 8450m to continued up to summit. No one knows by 5:35 pm whether they got to top or not. Not seen from C2 or Col as walkie-talkies not working.

  Mazeaud, Afanassieff, Yaeger and Diemberger with Sirdar Pemba Norbu will start 4:00 am tomorrow for summit and 5 Sherpas will go with then carrying oxygen to 8450m. Mazeaud expects reach Col at 12:00-1:00 tomorrow. Today good weather up to 5:35 pm as high as 8450m.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism Ministry - 8 Oct 78

  Austin (French charge) received following news from BC by radio today: 
  Perfect weather since yesterday morning at BC and C3 - no wind.

  1st assault team, P Mazeaud, Diemberger and Wehrs, now at C3; plan to reach South Col tomorrow morning and if weather is good, will go to summit on 10th or 11th from Col. French will try without camp above Col if weather is good.

  2nd assault team, 3 Germans and 1 French (names not given) from Col will divide with same to Everest summit and same to Lhotse summit.


  Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 15 Oct 78

  On summit took pix and raised flags of French and Nepal. On top: 
    P. Mazeaud and Diemberger 1:45 pm
    Afanassieff, Jaeger 1:35 pm today

  Weather excellent on Everest, their health also good and from summit Mazeaud thanked HMG and his collegues. 4 left summit 2:55 pm today. No news of other attempts.


  Sailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 14 Oct 78

  Yesterday 3 pm Diemberger and Hillmaier, Mack, Engle and Ang Dawa also decided to turn around and go up. Had not reached C4 before this decision at 3:00.

  Allenbach and Mazeaud reached Col. Mazeaud there when others arrived whether till 3:30 pm today excellent with no wind.

  This am between 6:00 and 7:00 all in South Col; left col to go up to summit without camp on ridge in 2 parties. 
  1) Mazeaud left 
     Diemberger first
     Hillmaier
  2) others three no news from there since their departure from Col now seen from C2 by 3:30 pm today.
  expected they would reach summit 5:00 pm. They have Germans and French walkie-talkie with them.

  Tomorrow  
  French  Jean Afanassieff
   "      Nicholas Jaeger
          Sirdar Pemba Norbu Sherpa
  reached Col 3:00 today and will try for summit tomorrow am. They also not receiving news from summit parties, but weather at Col excellent.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 13 Oct 78

  Pierre Mazeaud and 2 Sherpas have gone up trying again to reach Col today - left at 2:00 pm on 2nd try (from where, not given).

  Diemberger and Hillmaier are in C3; they did not join Mazeaud again today. 

  3 Sherpas who did not get to Col came down and 2 of them then went up with Mazeaud in afternoon. 


  Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 13 Oct 78

  Germany 1) Robert Allanbach
          2) Josef Mack
          3) + Sherpas
  Reached near south Col yesterday but health bad and they returned to C4. Yesterday evening and today to C2. There is no summit attempt today because no one reached Col except 3 Sherpas. These 5 should have gone to summit today.
   
  P Mazeaud, Diemberger, Hillmaier should attempt summit tomorrow as per yesterday plan. But at 12:30 LO reported C2 said they stopped at about 200m below South Col for rest and J-F Mazeaud saw them stop and then descend. Weather bad at South Col, strong winds. Others to go up tomorrow or next day from C2 and C3. Others:

    Fr   Walter Cecchinel
    Fr   Nicholas Jaeger
    Fr   Raymond Despiaux
    Ger  Sigi Hupfauer
    Ger  Hans Engl
    Ger  Willi Klimek

  Wanda should have gone up today with Allenbach and Mack but did not; reason not known.

  Herrligkoffer said P Mazeaud must go first.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 12 Oct 78

  13 members (5 Fr and 8 Gers) left C3 this am for South Col and expected some will reach Col tonight, some tomorrow am. Those who reach today may try for summit tomorrow if weather permits. Weather good today in C3. 


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 10 Oct 78

  P Mazeaud, Diemberger and 3 members of 1st assault team reached Col yesterday and had to come down in evening and reached C3 at 6:30.

  Left Col because wind 100 km/hr in col and heavy snow; reached C2 12:30 pm today.

  Could not stay at C4 yesterday because that camp covered with snow. This evening team will decide who will make attempt on Everest summit. It's by Herrligkoffer that younger members will be included in next assault team. Whether camp will be pitched above col not yet decided. Will attempt Everest only up 20th Oct; then will abandon says Herrligkoffer.

  Lhotse will be attempted only after Everest. LO thinks Diemberger and Mazeaud will not go up again and only 2 assault teams instead of 5 teams earlier planned.


  M Austin, French Charge - 5 Sept 78

  Austin helicoptered to Everest BC yesterday morning. Herrligkoffer and Kustermann and French climbers were there. P Mazeaud and Wanda were up making C2. Body of Germans expedition were at Lobuche, reaching BC probably today.

  No wind at all, no plume on Everest; fine weather at BC equipment and no broadcast permitted until French embassy gives Ok and French govt also gives.

  Satellite used is French-German govt's owned.


  SR Sharma - 1 Sept 78

  French Everest team tried to contact French embassy from Syangboche 6-7 days ago but equipment didn't work.

  HMG has refused permission to broadcast to France from BC; may only transmit news to French embassy, KTM, who will pass on news to Tourism. Tourism will first censor and release to press, then allow embassy to send censored news to France. French radio to pass along any news to Deutsche Welle, according to agreement between them.


  Rai, Annapurna Trekking - 21 Aug 78

  Herrligkoffer, Miss Kustermann and Wanda flew to Lukla in helicopter on 19 Aug.


  Herrligkoffer - 16 Aug 78

  Walters and Daum helicopter to Lukla, arrive 27 Aug. 

  Main group arrive BC 3 Sept: Walters and Daums, who were in Andes, rest in Munich now; reach BC few days after other.

  3 scientists: Herrligkoffer, Kustermann, Laube and Mrs Walter climbed 3700m mountains including Lenin.

  Have heard nothing from Karojin - making no plans for him in Nepal.

  Wanda climbed Gasherbrum with Alison Chadwick. Wanda was leader of expeditions which also climbed G-II. Gasherbrum III was highest not first climbed by women - and II first 8000m peak with only women.

  Wanda, born 4/2/43, divorced, no children, electronics engineer.


  SR Sharma, Tourism - 11 Aug 78

  Herrligkoffer's Germans will be permitted to climb Lhotse only if Mazeaud applies to HMG on their behalf.


  Mahabir Ale, Tourism - 9 Aug 78

  Permission to climb Lhotse this season has been given to French members only, not to Germans team.


  Herrligkoffer - 9 Aug 78

  15 HA climbers
  3 scientists incl Herrligkoffer
  1 Cameraman
  3 German "Sherpas"

  German members total 22. 12 today - 4 arrive after 2 weeks.

  French including have started climbing by time Germans arrive. French and Germans operate separately but make routes together.

  Germans leave soon as possible; stay at Narayani
  1st summit attempt on Everest 1st week if Oct; prepare loads and camps up to C2 during monsoon period.
  1 German woman, Miss Walter, and husband
  1 Polish lady Wanda Rutkiewicz, a deputy leader, Gasherbrum III summiter 1975
  Germans too will broadcast to Europe
  Germans = 7 tons baggage

  Intended orginally for Germans to climb by different route than French but SW Face many Sherpas [Bonington had <60] and HerrligKoffer couldn't raise enough money for so many Sherpas.

  Germans take only 10 Sherpas. He thought at one time could not afford any Sherpas, hence 3 Germans load carriers.

  German members also may climb Lhotse.
  (Herrligkoffer asked how many men with Mazeaud)


  SR Sharma - 2 Aug 78

  French part of Everest expedition permitted to scale Lhotse also; Germans not today (permit given 2-3 days ago). Both French and Germans via South Col only on Everest; if want to use other route must request permission to do so.


  Mazeaud - 1 Aug 78

  French members leave ahead of Germans - arrive 26 July and leave 2 Aug.
  Germans arrive 9 Aug including Herrligkoffer and stay at Taragaon; leave KTM about 19 Aug.

  French by bus to Lamosangu and walk in; few days at Thyangboche and Pheriche.

  One expedition, same route: South Col route with 6 camps above Base. Herrligkoffer is leader, Mazeaud head of French party; very good friends: better than with Dyhrenfurth. French to be in BC 24-25 Aug and C1 early Sept.

  Germans reach BC 5-10 Sept - where French making C1 and ferrying loads
  use oxygen 7000m for climbing.

  21 HA Sherpas for French 
  10 HA Sherpas for Germans
  ---
  31 all above BC


  Winkler - 25 March 76

  Winkler will be with Herrligkoffer on Everest in 1978. Herrligkoffer and Mazeaud come at same time but Herrligkoffer goes to old SW Ridge route and Mazeaud to South Col route.

  Everest exped stayed:
  French - Taragaon
  Diemberger - C/O Dr. La Roche of French embassy
  First Germans - Diamond Hotel (near KTM Guest House)
  Herrligkoffer - Narayani
  Walters - Shanker
  Daums - Mayalu


expid: EVER82103
peakid: EVER
year: 1982
route1: NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Chris Bonington
approach: Lhasa->Rongbuk Glacier
bcdate: 1982-03-16
smtdate: 1982-05-17
termdate: 1982-05-30
termnote: Abandoned at 8230m+ due to climbers' disappearance
accidents: Boardman and Tasker disappeared on NE Ridge
campsites:
  BC(16/03,5180m),ABC(04/04,6400m),Cave1(10/04,6860m),Cave2(12/04,7250m),Biv(02/05,8000m),xxx(17/05,8230m+)

routememo:
  British Mount Everest Expedition to China - 1982
  Expedition Report by Chris Bonington

  The expedition was one of the most arduous any of us had ever been on. Our small team was tackling the long unclimbed East North East Ridge of Everest without oxygen and with its main difficulties situated near its end between 26,000 ft and 27,500 ft, where the ridge was joined by the North Ridge, the route was taken by the pre-war expeditions and the successful Chinese expeditions of 1960 and 1975.

  The climbing team consisted of Peter Boardman, Dick Renshaw, Joe Tasker and myself, supported by Charles Clarks who was expedition doctor and Adrian Gordon, neither of whom planned to go beyond Advance Base.

  BC was reached on 16th March after a three day drive from Lhasea with halts at the towns of Xigaze and Xegur. The team was accompanied by a group of ten trekkers led by David Newbigging, chairman of Jardine Matheson of Hong Kong who sponsored the expedition. BC was situated at a height of 17,000 ft, near the foot of the Rongbuk Glacier and a few hundred yards above the site of the pre-war British camps. We spent the first week acclimatizing and exploring the route up the Rongbuk Glacier, which the trekking party was able to share in, some of them reaching a height of around 20,000 ft.

  ABC was established on 4th April at a height of 21,000 ft, after a three day trek with 13 yaks carrying the loads up the rock covered moraines that lead to the head of the East Rongbuk Glacier. There were two more ferries by the yaks of all the food and gear needed by the expedition, while the climbing team started work on the East North East Ridge. It was still bitterly cold with constant high winds sweeping down the glacier.

  The team was in effect, employing siege tactics but using a minimal quantity of fixed rope and digging snow holes for all the lower camps. This approach had the advantage for reducing the weight of gear to be ferried up the ridge and also ensured that our camps were secure, since tents would have been at great risk in the high winds. Using snowholes also had the advantage that the four members of the team were always together which made discussion of plans and ideas very much easier.

  Our first snow cave was established on 10th April at a height of 22,500 ft, just below the crest of the ridge. We then pushed the route across steep snow slopes to reach the site of our second snow cave at 23,800 ft on 12th April and began digging out a cave but almost immediately hit rock. Fortunately it was very crumbly and we were able to dig the rock away, but as a result it took around fourteen hours of work spread over several days to dig out a snow hole big enough for four.

  We went down for a rest at Advance Base on 14th April, returning to the ridge on the 18th and moving into our second snow cave on the 20th. While we did this Adrian and Charlie were supervising the yak herders who were ferrying our gear up from BC. Above the second snow cave, the ridge steepened into two steps, which we climbed on the 21st and 22nd respectively. The first was up a steep snow gully and the second on broken rock. We then dropped back to Advance Base on the 23rd, but this time descended to BC for a few days rest, having found that it was impossible to recover fully at 21,000 ft.

  We returned to Advance BC on 29th April, making the journey in a day. While Charlie and Adrian made an attempt on point 6919 on the eastern side of the upper Rongbuk Glacier, the rest of us returned to the ridge, reaching the second snow cave on 1st May. The following day, Pete and Dick moved up to the top of the snow shoulder at 25,700 ft to camp there for the night, whilst Joe and I carried food and gas cylinders up to their high point and returned to the second snow cave. We moved up with our personal gear the following day, while Pete and Dick dug out a snow cave just below the crest of the ridge on its south eastern side.

  Several hundred yards of gently ascending ridge led to the foot of the First Pinnacle. This was where the main difficulties of the climb started, at a height of 26,250 ft, higher than all but fourteen mountains in the world. The ridge now narrowed into a knife edged crest of snow, barred by a serious of rocky pinnacles. This section was just under half a mile in length, with a height gain of nearly 1300 ft before it was joined by the original Chinese route which took the North Ridge leading up from the North Col. We knew that this part of the ridge, before it joined the old route, would probably give us some of the most difficult climbing ever attempted at that altitude. Once we had climbed this section, however, we would be on known ground which would be technically easy compared to the unclimbed stretch before us.

  On 4th May Pete and I started climbing the First Pinnacle, Pete making a very bold lead up ice and broken ice rock that provided no secure cracks for piton anchors. As a result I had to join two ropes together to let him make a run out of around 250 ft. He was going so strongly I was very happy to let him stay in the lead, and that day he pushed out another 300 ft of ropes to reach a notch in the ridge giving a view of the eastern side of the ridge.

  The following day, Dick and Joe went out in front, Dick leading a pitch which was by far the most difficult so far, on steep and very insubstantial snow. At the end of this difficult stretch of climbing at a height of around 26,700 ft, he experienced a strange tingling down one side of his body. He therefore returned to the snow cave, while Pete belayed Joe for another pitch leading up towards the top of the pinnacle. That day they reached a height of around 26,900 ft.

  We were all worried about Dick's symptoms and now, after four nights at nearly 26,000 ft, we were extremely tired. We decided to descend to BC for another rest, where Charles diagnosed that Dick had had a mild stroke and recommended that he should return to sea level as soon as possible. He accompanied Dick as far as Chengdu.

  Back at BC I also came to the conclusion that I had gone as far as I was able, particularly as I was so much slower than Pete or Joe and might well hold them up in a bid for the summit, which we hoped to make on our return to the mountain. In addition, we had always hoped to reach the North Col, establish a dump of food there and mark the route back down, so that this could be used as a line of descent once the unclimbed section of the East North East Ridge had been negotiated. We had not had the time nor the energy to do this, but it now seemed a useful function for Adrian and myself to perform while Pete and Joe tried to complete the ridge and go for the summit.

  Pete, Joe and I returned to Advance Base on 13th May and on the 15th, Pete and Joe went straight up to the second snow cave in six hours, a sign of how well they had recovered from the previous sortie on the ridge. They reached the third snow cave the following day. They were well set up, with a good stock of food and fuel and about 800 ft of rope for fixing at the high point.

  Meanwhile Adrian and I tried to reach the col, but the route was more complex and difficult than we had anticipated and by six o'clock on the evening of the 16th, we were still about 300 ft below the North Col, our way barred by a broad crevasse below a serac wall. It was here that we had our last radio contact with Pete and Joe. We agreed that there should be two radio calls the next day, one at three in the afternoon and the next at six. Pete, who took the call, sounded full of optimism and said that he and Joe were both going well. Adrian and I then returned to Advance Base, planning to have a rest the following day, before trying to complete the route to the North Col.

  Through out the 17th we were able to watch the progress of Pete and Joe through our powerful telescope. They had obviously made a very early start, probably at dawn, for they were at the previous high point by nine in the morning, but then their progress slowed and it took them the rest of the day to run out around four rope lengths on new ground, most of it on the north west side between the rock and the crest of snow, in clear view from Advance Base. They climbed late into the evening, reaching the foot of the Second Pinnacle, where they disappeared round the corner onto the snow on the eastern side of the ridge. We assumed that they were having difficulty in finding suitable snow for a tent platform or snow cave. They had not answered our radio calls at either 3 o'clock or at six, and we assumed that either they had been too engrossed in the climbing or that perhaps their walkie-talkie had developed a fault.

  On the morning of the 18th, Adrian and I set out for the North Col carrying our personal gear. Throughout the day we searched the crest jof the East North East Ridge concentrating on the area where we knew they had come back into view since the way on the other side of the ridge was barred by steep rock. The view from the slopes of the North Col was particularly good since it looked directly on to this part of the ridge.

  That day we only reached our previous high point, camping on the edge of the crevasse and completing the route to the North Col on the morning of the 19th. We continued to examine the crest of the ridge throughout that day and the next through our binoculars, getting increasingly worried when they failed to come into sight. We knew that they could not reach the upper slopes of the North Ridge without coming into view.

  In view of the very short distance that they would have had to cover on the other side of the ridge before being forced back into view on our side, there seemed only one explanation for their disappearance - that they had both had a fall, perhaps as a result of a snow slip on the Kangshung side.

  By this time Charlie had returned to ABC making the journey back from Chengdu, at near sea level, to 21,000 ft in only five days and we decided that it was essential to make a search to try to see what might have happened. Neither Charlie nor Adrian had the mountaineering ability or experience to venture with me on to the ridge itself, and anyway, unless we had been able to reach the high point we would not have been able to see anything. On the other hand, there seemed an outside chance that they might have descended to the Kangshung valley on the other side of the ridge and by getting to its head we should at least have seen that side of the ridge. We decided therefore that Charlie and I should travel round to the Kangshung Glacier while Adrian held a grim and solitary vigil at our Advance Base in the remote hope that they might still come down the ridge.

  Charlie and I returned to BC on 22nd May, drove by truck to the village of Kharta on the eastern side of the mountain and then made a forty mile trek over the Langma La Pass and up the Kangshung Glacier, until from its head we could examine the entire huge face. There was no sign of them, but we could see that if they had fallen down it, they could not possibly have survived.

  And yet we still did not give up hope. As we drove back to BC, I almost convinced myself that I had completely misinterpreted the situation, that Pete and Joe would be there, laughing at our panicked response to their disappearance, insisting on going back for another go. But they were not at BC. Adrian, who had stayed at our Advance Base Camp until the 28th, had seen nothing. We had to accept that they were dead. Charlie carved a plague in their memory on a stone chosen from near the site of the memorial to Mallory and Irvine and we mounted it on a Cairn on a small knoll above BC.

  We had been so close to success, had worked harder, and had been more stretched both physically and mentally than ever been before. But there was extraordinarily little discussion about plans, for it was as if, through the many climbs we had done together, that we all knew and agreed instinctively what should be done at each stage of our climb. We were totally united in what we were doing, and until the tragedy it was the happiest expedition any of us had been on.

  Pete and Joe are an immense loss to the entire mountain world and to an even wider field. Not only were they outstanding mountaineers they were also fine creative writers and warmly compassionate people, who had already achieved an extraordinary amount for their years, and yet had such a huge potential for development before them.


expid: EVER83307
peakid: EVER
year: 1983
route1: W Ridge from N
nation: France
leaders: Yannick Seigneur, Patrick Barthe
countries: Switzerland, USA
approach: Lhasa->Rongbuk Glacier
bcdate: 1983-09-14
smtdate: 1983-10-10
termdate: 1983-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 8200m due to bad weather, strong wintery winds, exhaustion
campsites: BC(14/09,5300m),C1(5600m),C2(5800m),Biv1(08/10,7100m),Biv2(09/10,7500m),xxx(10,16/10,8200m)
routememo:
  The 12-member French team was lead by Yannick Seigneur and Patrick Barthe. The strong party intended to traverse Everest via West Ridge (ascent) and NE Ridge (descent). From the Tibetan side, without oxygen and without high altitude camps. Base camp was established on 14th Sept at 5300m on the Central Rongbuk Glacier. The steep firm buttress leading to the W Ridge (7100m) had been fixed with rope.

  On 8th Oct, the first summit team of Gallet, Fargeas, Seigneur bivouacked at 7100m and 7500m, turning from the W Ridge (Yugoslav route) to the Hornbein Couloir, reaching in 3 days the high point of 8200m (C6 of the last American expedition). Bad weather and exhaustion forced them to retreat.

  From 14th to 19th Oct Escoffier and Schaffter repeated the attack, sleeping two nights at 8200m. Strong winds made further progress impossible, Thereafter heavy weather made the climb dangerous. However Gallet, Seigneur and Koenig started the last attempt, but they could reach only the height of 8000m. Strong wintery winds, bad weather, exhaustion and frostbite of team members made them abandon the expedition. The conditions during the whole trip were unfavourable.


  Addendum from Bruno Gallet, February 2022

  Patrick Barthe stayed in the BC the whole time of the expedition.

  Schaffter and Escoffier did most of the task for equipping the route with fixed rope (North spur of the West shoulder, etc…).

  Bivouac 1 (7100m) was located below the West Shoulder.

  Bivouac 2 (7500m) was located further up, at a little col down to the West Ridge climbed by the Slovenians in 1979.

  During the first attempt (from 8 to 13 October), Gallet, Fargeas and Seigneur reached a high point of circa 8200m on the 10th of October, digging in the ice to build a platform for a future campsite. That campsite was roughly located at a pitch length down to the Yellow Band’s start - same as Americans’ C5 (EVER-833-03). As they got taken by a storm during the descent, Seigneur incited them to dig a hole in the snow to get a shelter.

  The third attempt (the last of the expedition, after the second one of Schaffter and Escoffier) involved Seigneur, Koenig, Fargeas and Gallet. Fargeas and Koenig abandoned above the second bivouac (7500m), at some point in the traverse towards the Hornbein’s start. Only Seigneur and Gallet went further up into the proper Hornbein couloir. As they reached the same high point as the first attempt (8200m), Gallet, still feeling in a good shape, continued. Seigneur not being able to go further up anymore, let Gallet continue up alone for a while. The latter first reached the Yellow Band, then continued alone for a few pitches in there, using the remnants of fixed ropes left by a prior expedition (Japanese?). As he reached about 8360-8380m within the Yellow Band, Seigneur called him from below by his given name (the first time during the whole expedition), begging him to come back down. Knowing his chances alone without oxygen were too scarce, Gallet chose to abandon and joined back his companion, who had started to go down in-between.

  Late in the afternoon, the duet joined Fargeas and Koenig at the 7500m bivouac, where the quartet would suffer a severe storm during the night. Seigneur and Gallet slept in separate tents of the USA team, whereas the other two slept in the same tent. The next morning, the latter was tattered, since Fargeas and Koenig had imprudently tied their crampons to the tent pole. Seigneur and Gallet found them still lying in their sleeping bags, both rather incoherent and not wanting to come back down. Seigneur, who had already faced a similar situation, forced them to do so, fearing them to die in situ. Helping them to walk back down the fresh powder of the west ridge was a hard task to manage for Seigneur and Gallet. Koenig lost his ice axe 4 or 5 times, which Gallet had each time to take back from 20m below. Fargeas thought to be in a pub, asking Seigneur at some stage “Would you be ok for a beer?”. The arrival of the quatuor in the Base Camp is shown at the end of Afanasieff’s movie: 

     https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ocZsmDH-LX0. 


expid: EVER93401
peakid: EVER
year: 1993
route1: SW Face (Bonington rte)
nation: Japan
leaders: Kuniaki Yagihara
sponsor: Japan Gunma Sagarmatha Southwest Face Expedition
ascent1: 184-186
bcdate: 1993-11-13
smtdate: 1993-12-18
smttime: 1520
termdate: 1993-12-27
othersmts: Pokalde summit by all 7 Japanese climbers before going to BC
achievment: 1st winter ascent of face; 1st Japanese ascent of face
agency: Cosmo Treks
campsites:
  BC(13/11,5350m),C1(01/12,6020m),C2(01/12,6500m),TempC3(03/12,6900m),C3(09/12,7600m),C4(13/12,8350m),Smt(18,20,22/12)

routememo:
  C2  at Cwm
  TC3 at bottom of SW Face
  C3  on SW Face
  C4  on SW Face.

  Icefall route made by Sherpas 16-19 Nov and then loads ferried to C1 by Sherpas. C1 and C2 really pitched only on 1 Dec with some Sherpas staying in C1 (+1 Japanese) while other Sherpas and members went directly to C2. Temporary C3 pitched at 6900m and removed after route made to permanent C3 (removed 11 Dec). Fixed 24 x 50m rope entire route from C4 to Summit Col; fixed no rope above South Summit's col (used "so many old ropes" on Hillary Step). No tents taken above C4, for above this "only traverse and after rope fixed, very easy and speedy." 1st summit bid was on 18th. 7 Dec snowfall and strong winds and 8 Dec morning strong wind but later in day weather changed and almost every day good weather on face, which is convex and not exposed to stronger winds of West Ridge, N Ridge and SE Ridge. In winter face is very easy after route making "although summit parties had strong winds above South Summit" (so much snow being blown about in swirling wind, could not see Makalu from main summit). Some rock falling because of strong wind and hand lamps and goggles damaged but no one hurt. 10 Sherpas ferried loads to C4 without oxygen but none slept in C4; in winter Sherpas don't like cold and danger. On 22 Dec -36 degrees at 5:00 am at C4; on top -45 degrees probably. Snowfall only on 7 Dec; face had no snow at all except little in snow band (above and right of C4) which is below yellow band; snow that fell on 7th was quickly blown away. Routes followed exactly same as Bonington's. 

  50 ladders placed in Icefall and 2000m rope.

  Oxygen:
    C3 all members and all Sherpas sleeping
    C3 -> C4 all members, no Sherpas
    C4 & to top all members (no Sherpas stayed at C4 or went above)
    96 Russian oxygen bottles taken to BC; 65 used

  Most difficult section was couloir below S Summit for 100m; very technical rock from 8500m to 8600m altitude.

  Success this time (1) made complete camp at 8350m (24 yrs ago did not have light, compact platform which brought now); (2) members well acclimatized and in good health; acclimatization was from autumn ascent of Cho Oyu: then 3 weeks rest and climb of Pokalde; (3) all 7 climbing members had been on same route in winter before in 1991, knew route and its problems; (4) "high pressure" to succeed. "Now I can go back to Japan" said Yagihara.

  Could not climb Everest in winter without oxygen because of cold; would lose all fingers and toes.

  No Sherpa problems this time: in 1991 2 months on mountain, this time only 3 weeks.

  On summit, found US Spring 1992 prism standing, other's poles lying on snow.
  13 tons of supplies to BC for 50 people:

    7 Japanese climbers
    2 Japanese at BC
   28 HA Sherpas
    2 sirdars (1 BC, 1 C2)
    3 cooks   (2 BC, 1 C2)
    5 kitchen boys at BC
    3 mailrunners

  All seven climbing members after autumn Cho Oyu ascent rested 3 weeks in KTM or Chitwan so when went to Khumbu for Everest climb, first went to 5800m Pokalde to re-acclimatize to that altitude and thus be able on 1 Dec to go from BC straight through to C2. Akiyama and Terada supervised loads to BC and icefall route-making while Pokalde being successfully scaled.

accidents:
  Sato chest pain: developed chest pain 13 Dec reaching C4 so immediately down to C2 & 20 Dec to BC; Ezuka 5 fingers frostbitten on 20 Dec but will be Ok


expid: GAMA72301
peakid: GAMA
year: 1972
route1: W side
nation: Japan
leaders: Akinobu Otsu
sponsor: Japan Rock Climbing Society Expedition to Dhaulagiri IV
ascent1: 2nd
bcdate: 1972-09-02
smtdate: 1972-10-14
termnote: Crossed over Gama Peak in attempt to reach Dhaulagiri IV
othersmts: Climbed Dhaulagiri VI (DHA6-723-01); attempted Dhaulagiri IV (DHA4-723-01)
primid: DHA472301
campsites:
  BC(02/09,4100m),C1(06/09,4800m),C2(11/09,5300m),C3(20/09,5700m),C4(29/09,6300m),C5(03/10,6400m),C6(13/10,6900m),Smt(14/10)


expid: GAN149201
peakid: GAN1
year: 1949
route1: Reconnaissance
nation: UK
leaders: H. W. Tilman
primid: PALD49201
othersmts:
  Recon Langtang Lirung (LANG-492-01); attempted Ganchempo (GANC-492-01); climbed Paldor (PALD-492-01)


expid: GAN155301
peakid: GAN1
year: 1955
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Raymond Lambert
ascent1: 1st
countries: France
approach: Chilime Valley
bcdate: 1955-09-20
smtdate: 1955-10-24
smttime: 1230
termdate: 1955-10-31
campsites: BC(20/09,4450m),C1(5030m),C2(5700m),C3(6300m),Smt(24/10)
accidents: Eric Gauchat fell to death during descent
routememo:
  Sherpas (names taken from literature):
    Kami Tsering (born 1932)
    Pasang (born 1926)
    Nami (sirdar) (#191?)
    Ang Temba (born 1929)
    Pasang Temba (born 1936)
    Pemba Norbu (#150, born 1909)
    Ngawang Tsering (#204, born 1933)
    Nyima Dorje (#229, born 1932)


expid: LAMP53101
peakid: LAMP
year: 1953
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Athol Roberts
bcdate: 1953-05-13
termdate: 1953-05-20
othersmts: Attempted Ganesh I (GAN1-531-01) and Ganesh II (GAN2-531-01); climbed Chamar North (CHMN-531-01)
campsites: BC(3650m),C1,C2,C3(5800m),xxx
primid: GAN153101
routememo:
  Taken from "The New Zealand Alpine Journal"

  Before setting out for Sarpu again it was decided to spend about ten days attempting a peak named Lampu. On the 13th May McCallum and Gardner with four Sherpas set out to establish a camp on Lampu which is a little north of Mt. Ganesh Himal. Next day Gardner and one Sherpa commenced a reconnaissance of the peak, which eventually involved them in having to spend the night out. These two found a cave like hole at the foot of bluff about 20 feet high. The hole was full of icicles but it was welcome shelter. Following Gardner's return it was decided to press on and Camp II was established in a spot like an eagles's nest. It was thought that from Camp III we might have a chance of climbing this peak, but we were all deceived by the scale of the mountain and realised that it would be necessary to establish Camp IV. An attempt was made to do this without success. After a council of war at Camp III, where the temperature had dropped considerably, we then determined that we would make an attempt on the summit from here. We were running short of food and fuel and would soon have to return to Base. An early start was made next morning but by noon having negotiated a difficult snow ridge where the snow was the consistency of sugar. It was realized that the party could not possible hope to reach the summit in one day. There was very little food and fuel left and so we returned to Base Camp with something else attempted but still nothing done.


expid: GANC75301
peakid: GANC
year: 1975
route1: W Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Skip Horner
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to broken crampon
campsites: xxx(Nov,6100m)
routememo:
  Skip Horner - 11 July 2005 (by email)

  We approached the West Ridge via a steep snow slope on the north side of the mountain. I broke a crampon on the approach (jumping a crevasse with a rigid crampon on flexible boots) so I had it just strapped on with an accessory strap. We reached  a rather steep step at about 6100m where I lost confidence in the rig, so we descended. Snow conditions were very good, I believe we would have had a good shot at the top. I climbed with Bob Harwood, who's now a lawyer in the Ketchum/Hailey Idaho area, and he's also the photographer of the Ama Dablam and Pumori photo-posters that hang in the Sagarmatha NP museum above Namche, and many other locations. 

  We had no Sherpas, just my girlfriend waiting for us down below. I don't remember the exact dates in November.


expid: GANC91101
peakid: GANC
year: 1991
route1: S Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Rainer Bensch, Harald Seeba
smtdate: 1991-04-16
termnote: Abandoned at 5700m due to fall
campsites: xxx(16/04,5700m)
routememo:
  Unauthorized attempt - HMG official said 26 June 91 no application submitted; German embassy paid fine for Seeba so he could leave Nepal quickly and HMG wrote to embassy about Bensch.

  Only information about this team came from Al Burgess, who wrote out the details of the accident and the sketch map of where it happened. However it is obvious from Burgess's account that the attempt to climb ended with this serious accident.


  Al Burgess - 8 May 91
  Ganchempo Accident

  Around the 16 April 1991 2 Germans, Rainer Bensch and Harald Seeba attempted to climb the S Ridge of Ganchempo. At 5700m Seeba fell breaking both legs. Bensch returned to Kangyin on 17th April and radioed KTM for help. Asian Trekking sent 3 Sherpas. They climbed to Seeba but could not rescue him. 

  On 23rd April Bensch returned again to Kangyin and met Al Burgess who radioed for 3 climbing Sherpas. On 25th? April Burgess, Bensch and 3 Sherpas and 5 local Langtang porters set up a Base Camp at 4700m on the southwest side of the peak on a glacial moraine. The Langtang men descended. On 27th they reached Seeba and brought him to a pass at 5500m. The following day they brought him to 4700m. Burgess returned to Kangyin to get a ladder (used as a stretcher) and 7 local porters. 2 days later they brought him to Kangyin. He flew out the next day to Ktm by helicopter.


expid: GANG71301
peakid: GANG
year: 1971
route1: W Ridge from S
nation: Japan
leaders: Kiyoshi Shimizu
sponsor: Nagano Mountaineering Association
ascent1: 3rd
approach: Pokhara->Modi Khola->Annapurna Sanctuary (BC)
bcdate: 1971-09-07
smtdate: 1971-10-15
smttime: 1415
termdate: 1971-10-22
campsites: BC(07/09),C1(15/09,5180m),C2(22/09,5900m),C3(09/10,6850m),C4(13/10,7120m),Smt(15/10)
accidents: 3 members and 5 Sherpas killed by avalanche (or fall)
routememo:
  Approached from the south via the Modi Khola and Sanctuary.

  On October 15, Kiyoshi Shimizu, Takeshi Akahane and Girme Dorje Sherpa reached the summit from C4 at 2:15 pm at 2:15 pm and then returned to C4 at 7 pm where a second summit team of 4 was waiting. They planned continue down to C3 that day where 3 more teammates were waiting in support of the two summit teams, but heavy snows pinned all seven of them down at C4.

  At 6 pm on Oct 16, the two higher camps failed to make radio contact with 3 Japanese climbers and 3 Sherpas waiting at C2. On the next day Oct 17, Girme Dorje and Pemba Norbu went down to C2 from C4 to investigate. The next morning Oct 18 at 8 am Girme reported by radio to C3 from the C2 site that the camp had completely disappeared, presumably swept away by an avalanche on the afternoon of Oct 16 and killing all 6 occupants.

  After reporting this, Girme said that he and Pemba would return back up to C3, but the Japanese in C3 advised against since the route between the camps was avalanche prone. They were not seen or heard from again. It is presumed that they were swept away by an avalanche or fell into a crevasse.


expid: GAUR52301
peakid: GAUR
year: 1952
route1: Reconnaissance
nation: UK
leaders: Tom MacKinnon
sponsor: Scottish Nepal Expedition
approach: Charikot->Beding->Rowaling Valley
primid: RAMD52301
othersmts:
  Climbed 3 Rolwaling peaks in Ramdung area: (Ramdung (RAMD-523-01), Yalung Ri (5647m), Peak 5794m), 1 Khumbu peak (Kalapattar) and 2 peaks near Junbesi


expid: GAUR55101
peakid: GAUR
year: 1955
route1: Reconnaissance
nation: UK
leaders: Alfred Gregory
sponsor: Merseyside Himalayan Expedition 1955
approach: Rolwaling Valley
primid: RAMD55101
othersmts:
  Climbed Panaio Toupa (PANT-551-01), Parchamo (PARC-551-01), Pimu (PIMU-551-01), Ramdung (RAMD-551-01), Chekigo (CHEK-551-01), Dingjung Ri (DING-551-01), Ripimo Shar (RIPI-551-01), Dapladadangdio and Singkar; attempted Pangbuk Ri (PANG-551-01)

routememo:
  Recon of Gaurishankar used as excuse to visit Rolwaling Valley. Did not actually go very near to mountain.


expid: GHUN88301
peakid: GHUN
year: 1988
route1: W Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Shin Young-Chul
sponsor: 1988 Korea Dhaulagiri VI, Gurja Himal Expedition
ascent1: 6th?
bcdate: 1988-08-31
smtdate: 1988-09-19
othersmts: Climbed Dhaulagiri VI (DHA6-883-01) and Gurja Himal (GURJ-883-01)
campsites: BC(31/08,4530m),Dep(02/09,4800m),C1(06/09,5350m),C2.ABC(10/09,5750m),Smt(19/09)
agency: Adventure Nepal
primid: DHA688301
routememo:
  Ghustang North climbed 19 Sept by Lee Sang-Ho, Lee Syung-Hwan and Shin Young-Chul from C2 up West Face.


expid: GHYM53301
peakid: GHYM
year: 1953
route1: NE side
nation: Austria
leaders: Herbert Tichy
ascent1: 1st
campsites: Smt(Nov)
othersmts:
  Recon Patrasi Himal (PATR-533-10); climbed Dong Mar, Dudh Kundali (DUDH-533-01), Milchberg Peak and Thorungse Dong Mar (all 1st ascents); approached Saipal (SAIP-533-01)


expid: GIMM63101
peakid: GIMM
year: 1963
route1: W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Ken Miyazawa
approach: Dharan->Taplejung->Ghunsa
bcdate: 1963-04-28
smtdate: 1963-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to wind and snowstorm
campsites: BC(28/04,5100m),C1(5200m),C2(5600m),C3(14/05,6100m),C4(6600m),C5(23/05,7000m),xxx
othersmts:
  Attempted Taple Shikhar (TAPL-631-01); climbed Tsisima (TSIS-631-01) and Tsisima S Peak (both 1st ascents)


expid: GLAC65101
peakid: GLAC
year: 1965
route1: S Ridge
nation: W Germany
leaders: Guenter Hauser
sponsor: German Alpine Association
ascent1: 2nd
bcdate: 1965-04-06
smtdate: 1965-05-29
smttime: 1100
termdate: 1965-06-03
campsites: BC(06/04,3750m),C1(19/05,4550m),C2(23/05,5250m),C3(26/05,5700m),C4(28/05,6400m),Smt(29/05)
primid: GANG65101
othersmts:
  Climbed Gangapurna (GANG-651-01) and Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak) (THAR-651-01); permit for Annapurna I (ANN1-651-01)


expid: GLAC69101
peakid: GLAC
year: 1969
route1: SW side
nation: W Germany
leaders: Ludwig Greissl
ascent1: 3rd-5th
bcdate: 1969-04-02
smtdate: 1969-05-04
othersmts: Attempted Annapurna I (ANN1-691-01); climbed Roc Noir (ROCN-691-01)
achievment: 1st ski descent
primid: ANN169101
campsites:
  BC(02/04,4300m),C1(09/04,5200m),C2(16/04,5900m),C3(22/04,6200m),C4(03/05,6500m),C5(07/05,7070m),Smt(04,09,18/05)


expid: GLAC81101
peakid: GLAC
year: 1981
route1: SW side
nation: Sweden
leaders: Tommy Sandberg
sponsor: Swedish Himalayan Expedition 1981
ascent1: 6th,7th
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 1981-04-06
smtdate: 1981-05-05
othersmts: Climbed Roc Noir (ROCN-811-01); attempted Annapurna 1 (ANN1-811-01)
primid: ANN181101
campsites:
  BC(06/04,4200m),C1(08/04,5200m),C2(12/04,5800m),C3(27/04,6200m),C4(01/05,6650m),C5(04/05,7100m),Smt(05,12/05)


expid: GYAC55301
peakid: GYAC
year: 1955
nation: USA
leaders: Norman Dyhrenfurth
sponsor: International Himalayan Expedition 1955
termnote: Had permit but did not climb
routememo: Peak proposed to Dyhrenfurth by Nepalese government.
primid: LHOT55301
othersmts:
  Climbed Imjatse (IMJA-551-01) and Palung Ri (PLNG-552-01); attempted Lhotse (LHOT-553-01); recon Lhotse Shar (LHSR-553-01)


expid: LEOE55101
peakid: LEOE
year: 1955
route1: S Face-SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Monica Jackson
sponsor: Scottish Women's Himalayan Expedition
ascent1: 1st
approach: KTM->Balephi Khola->Tempanthang
bcdate: 1955-04-22
smtdate: 1955-05-11
termdate: 1955-05-17
othersmts: Recon Leonpo Gang (LEON-551-01)
campsites: BC(22/04,4575m),C1(06/05,4420m),C2(07/05),C3(08/05),C4(09/05),C5(10/05),Smt(11/05)
routememo:
  Evelyn Camrass McNicol (by email) - 12 Jan 2005

  The climb [Gyalgen Peak] involved ascending through an ice fall, traversing an open glacier, then ascending another icefall with a difficult crossing of a very wide deep crevasse to establish the highest camp from where the summit was reached in one day. Stormy weather kept us at this high camp for two days before we could return to base camp.

  We estimated that our base camp was at about 15,000 ft, so our first camp at the entrance to the lower ice fall was probably 500 ft lower. From here we established camps 2, 3, 4, and 5 at a days climbing apart and estimated our highest camp was less than 2000 ft below the summit. The reason I cannot be more specific is that we did not have an altimeter which read more than 8000 ft.! We arrived at our base camp on 22nd April 1955 and made an exploratory trip of the Phurbi Chyachumba glacier, returning to base camp on 29th April. Left base camp for second trip on 5th May and climbed Gyalgen Peak on 11th May.

  Evelyn left base camp on 17th May and with Ang Temba climbed a peak on the Chaksil Danda ridge which she called Bidean Nan Nighean (the Scottish Galic for "the hill of the maiden") estimated to be between 17,000 and 18,000 ft.


expid: HIME53101
peakid: HIME
year: 1953
route1: E Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Herbert Maddock
approach: Chuling Khola
smtdate: 1953-06-12
termnote: Abandoned at 5600m due to lack of manpower and equipment
campsites: xxx(12/06,5600m)
routememo:
  Times of India - 25 Feb, 1980

     A British mountain climber and explorer who disappeared without a trace in the Himalayas 27 years ago might have been killed after stumbling across a camp of CIA-trained guerillas, a British author claimed yesterday.
     Mr Harry Hilton, a member of the same expedition writing in "International Mountain Year 1980", published yesterday, said he originally accepted the official view that mountaineer Bert Maddock drowned while trying to cross a swollen river, but had since come to question the foreign office version of the incident.
     He said Mr. Maddock disappeared near Tibetan-Chinese border, where he claimed the CIA is known to have been active at that time.
     Mr. Hilton said his attempts to investigate have come up against a wall of silence from American, British and Nepalese authorities. Documents relating to Mr. Maddocks's disappearance are missing, he claimed.
     A foreign office spokesman said, "We never comment on stories of this kind."
     Mr. Hilton said that on the second day on the 1953 expedition he had saved Mr. Maddock's life after he fell into a river and "the experience made a vivid impression on Bert. I doubt if he would have taken any chances."
     Mr. Hilton left the expedition after contracting dysentery, leaving Mr. Maddock and his porters to go on.
     "In 1953 there were at least nine US "technicians" at work in Nepal, and it is possible that covert activities had already begun there in that year," Mr. Hilton wrote.
     "It is a fact that Khamba tribesmen and other Tibetans from the frontier zone were being trained by the Americans in the United States and elsewhere," he claimed. "If Bert had unwittingly wandered into a guerilla training area or camp, could he have been permitted to leave Nepal?"


  Harry Hilton - 13 Aug 74

  The Story of the 1953 Himalchuli Expedition:

  In early May, 1953, Mr Herbert Maddock (23) and Mr. Harry Hilton (23) arrived in Kathmandu from India. After numerous perparations they left the Nepalese capital on 23rd May together with five porters hired with the help of Colonel Proud at the British Embassy in Kathmandu.

  Their expedition had two objectives:

  a) To travel to Himalculi, 25,800 ft, via the Buri Gandaki and the Chuling Khola, to reconnoitre a possible route up the mountain, and if the opportunity presented itself, to attempt to climb it.

  b) After the attempt on the mountain, the expedition hoped to return down the Chuling Khola and the Buri Gandaki as far as Khorlak, then cross the Buri Gandaki and travel east to the sacred lake at Gosainkund. From there a return via the Trisuli river to Kathmandu would be made. The expedition intended to be away for some six or seven weeks.

  Five days after leaving Kathmandu, Mr. Hilton was taken seriously ill with a severe attack of dysentery, and on the banks of the Ankhu Khola the two Europeans decided that it would be best if Mr. Maddock continued to Himalchuli with three porters, while Mr. Hilton remained with the other two porters by the river. If he recovered Mr. Hilton was to decide whether to attempt to rejoin Mr. Maddock at Ngyak on the Buri Gandaki, or to return to Kathmandu. On Friday the 29th May Mr. Maddock and his three porters duly left the camp by the Ankhu Khola and continued the expedition as planned.

  His party reached Ngyak on Wednesday, 3rd June, and then entered the Chuling Khola with the intention of gaining the East ridge of Himalchuli. On Friday, 12th June, Mr. Maddock abandoned his attempt to climb the mountain having attained an altitude of 18,500 ft. The reasons were lack of equipment, men, bad weather, and objective danger (falling stones). he had taken a locally-porter he named Garumph with him to the highest point.

  Meanwhile Mr. Hilton had staged a helf recovery and managed with the help of this two porters to return to Kathmandu on Monday, 1st June. He was looked over by members of the British Embassy in Kathmandu until he was fit enough to be flown to Patna then by train to Calcutta where he arrived on Friday, 5th June.

  Mr. Maddock returned down the Buri Gandaki to Khorlak where it crossed it and headed east towards Gosainkund as planned. By now the monsoon had arrived, rivers were swollen, bridges down and leeches out in profusion. Bearing all this in mind plus the fact that he was running short of supplies and money, Mr. Maddock had decided to abandon his journey to the sacred lake, and to return to Kathmandu via the Trisuli River.

  On either Friday the 19th June or Saturday the 20th June (from Sunday 31st May there is confusion about the dates given in Mr. Maddock's journal) the expedition crossed the 11,338 ft. pass between Kasigaon and Khading and camped a few miles short of Khading. This information was the last to be written in Mr. Maddock's journal.

  There are conflicting reports as to what happened after this. One report from the Lancashire Evening Post of the 9th July reads thus: "The Sherpas (incorrect) who brought back Maddock's luggage and diary, said they started from Khading, a village about 100 miles (nearer 70) from Kathmandu, and their next halt was to have been Barang. Across the route lay the flooded Ankza (Ankhu) Khola stream, winding between two villages. There is no bridge over the stream during the monsoons and the Sherpas (incorrect -- Kathmandu porters) said they suggested a detour. One evening, however, Maddock went ahead, asking them to follow. They thought Maddock had tried to swim the stream, an idea from which they attempted to dissuade him. They never saw him again, despite a wide search.

  When I interviewed Col. Proud, who interrogated the porters when they returned to Kathmandu, he seemed to think that the accident happened during the day of the 21st June. (He was not aware of the date errors in Mr. Maddock's journal).

  The three porters searched the area for about a week, then returned to Kathmandu about the 2nd July, some six weeks after the expedition had set out. It is not known whether they reported the accident to the Nepalese authorities before or after they went to the British Embassy and were interviewed by Col. Proud.


expid: HIME59101
peakid: HIME
year: 1959
route1: E Ridge-NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Junjiro Muraki
sponsor: Japanese Alpine Club (JAC)
approach: Buri Gandaki Valley->Namru
bcdate: 1959-03-06
smtdate: 1959-05-21
termdate: 1959-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to steep ice and dwindling supply of food and fuel
othersmts: Attempted Himalchuli NE
accidents: 1 Sherpa died of edema
campsites:
  BC(06/03,4200m),C1(10/04,5180m),C2(23/04,5790m),C3(6500m),C4(6100m),C5(10/05,6800m),xxx(21/05,7400m)


expid: HIME60101
peakid: HIME
year: 1960
route1: SW Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Jiro Yamada
sponsor: Keio University Himalayan Expedition
ascent1: 1st,2nd
bcdate: 1960-04-19
smtdate: 1960-05-24
smttime: 1310
termdate: 1960-06-02
othersmts: Climbed on Himalchuli West (HIMW-601-01)
accidents: 1 Sherpa died in climbing accident
campsites:
  BC(19/04,4200m),C1(25/04,5180m),C2(01/05,5760m),C3(07/05,6300m),C4(19/05,6600m),C5(22/05,7000m),C6(23/05,7300m),Smt(24-25/05)


expid: HIME77101
peakid: HIME
year: 1977
route1: E Face-N Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Toyozo Sugasawa
sponsor: Meiji University Mountaineering Club
approach: Trisuli Bazar->BC
bcdate: 1977-03-22
smtdate: 1977-05-13
termdate: 1977-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to fatal avalanche
accidents: Yoshiharu Kondo killed by falling ice block of broken cornices (hit in face)
campsites:
  BC(22/03),C1(28/03,5300m),C2(02/04,5800m),C3(11/04,6450m),C4(24/04,6700m),C5(07/05,6800m),C6(11/05,7150m),xxx(13/05,7800m)


expid: HIMW60101
peakid: HIMW
year: 1960
route1: W Col
nation: Japan
leaders: Jiro Yamada
sponsor: Keio University
bcdate: 1960-04-19
smtdate: 1960-05-24
termdate: 1960-06-02
termnote: Climbed only to 7450m to film Himalchuli ascent team
othersmts: Climbed Himalchuli Main (HIME-601-01)
routememo: Cameraman Kimura climbed onto shoulder of Himalchuli West to film ascent team on Himalchuli Main.
achievment: Reached 7450m while climbing Main peak
primid: HIME60101
campsites:
  BC(19/04,4200m),C1(25/04,5180m),C2(01/05,5760m),C3(07/05,6300m),C4(19/05,6600m),C5(22/05,7000m),C6(23/05,7300m),xxx(25/05,7450m)


expid: HIUP81301
peakid: HIUP
year: 1981
route1: E Face
nation: USA
leaders: Eric Simonson
ascent1: 2nd
countries: Canada
approach: Pokhara->Hinku Cave->BC
bcdate: 1981-09-24
smtdate: 1981-10-08
campsites: BC(24/09,4025m),C1(01/10,4785m),C2(05/10,5275m),C3(07/10,5700m),Smt(08/10)
routememo:
  Cummings - 19 Oct 81

  Eric Simonson (leader, Mt Rainier Guide) got to Hiunchuli on 2nd ascent (1st by Craig Anderson in 1970 by same route basically on East Face). More difficult than expected; used fixed rope over and over again.

  Peak not 6440m but 6125m according to measurements.

  BC 24 Sept 13,200 ft
  C1  1 Oct  15,700 ft
  C2  5 Oct  17,300 ft
  C3  7 Oct  18,500 ft


expid: HONG62101
peakid: HONG
year: 1962
route1: NE Ridge from E
nation: Japan
leaders: Shijiro Ishizaka
sponsor: Nihon University Mountaineering Club
ascent1: 1st
bcdate: 1962-05-06
smtdate: 1962-05-08
campsites: BC(06/05,5450m),ABC(07/05),Smt(08/05)
othersmts:
  Climbed Dhampus (DHAM-621-01), Tongu (TONG-621-01) and Kangtokla (KTOK-621-01); attempted Churen Himal (CHUR-621-01); recon Dhaulagiri II


expid: JANU57301
peakid: JANU
year: 1957
route1: E side (recon)
route2: SW side (recon)
nation: France
leaders: Guido Magnone
approach: Darjeeling->Tseram->Mirgin La->Ghunsa
bcdate: 1957-10-01
termdate: 1957-10-17
routememo:
  Explored from Tseram up Yalung Valley first (east side of Jannu), then crossed Mirgin La to Ghunsa and explored up Yamatarie Glacier (SW side of Jannu).


expid: JANU59101
peakid: JANU
year: 1959
route1: S Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jean Franco
approach: Darjeeling->Tamar Valley->Ghunza->Yamatari Glacier
bcdate: 1959-04-04
smtdate: 1959-05-12
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to route being too risky
campsites:
  BC(04/04,4450m),C1(4800m),C2(5400m),C3(5800m),C4(30/04,6400m),C5(09/05,6900m),C6(11/05,7360m),xxx(12/05,7400m)


expid: JANU62101
peakid: JANU
year: 1962
route1: S Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Lionel Terray
ascent1: 1st,2nd
approach: Darjeeling->Tamar Valley->Ghunsa->Yamatari Glacier
bcdate: 1962-03-18
smtdate: 1962-04-27
smttime: 1830
campsites:
  BC(18/03,4450m),C1(26/03,4800m),C2(29/03,5200m),C3.ABC(05/04,6000m),C4(10/04,6400m),C5(15/04,6900m),C6(7350m),Smt(27-28/04)


expid: JONG30101
peakid: JONG
year: 1930
route1: N Ridge from E
nation: Germany
leaders: G. O. Dyhrenfurth
ascent1: 1st,2nd
countries: Austria, Switzerland, UK
bcdate: 1930-04-26
smtdate: 1930-06-03
campsites: BC(26/04,5050m),C1(5680m),C2(6000m),C3(6465m),Smt(03,08/06)
primid: KANG30101
othersmts:
  Climbed Domo (DOMO-301-01), Nepal Peak (NEPA-301-01) and Ramtang (RAMT-301-01); recon Kangbachen (KANB-301-01); attempted Kangchenjunga (KANG-301-01)

achievment:
  Dyhrenfurth also climbed Domo on 8 June 1930 (the 1st ascent of the second summit of the Jongsang massif)


expid: JONG83101
peakid: JONG
year: 1983
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Tone Skarja
approach: Dhankuta->Pangpema (BC)
bcdate: 1983-04-16
smtdate: 1983-04-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6145m due to lack of equipment (needed fixed ropes)
campsites: BC(16/04,5500m),ABC(19/04,5320m),C1(20/04,5950m),xxx(21/04,6145m)
routememo:
  Beyond Jongsang La: 1-1/2 km sharp ridge and then 2-3 km plateau to top. This beyond resources of our small light expedition. All back in BC by 28 April (and most went to Ghunsa and Lapsang La where too much snow). Plan had been to go up East Face and down SE Ridge but needed prepare SE Ridge route first and this not possible. South Face only 50-60% and quite possible to go up, but not down.

  Other summit not attempted; had good view of Yalung Kang North Face, which wanted to climb 1985, but Skarja thinks seracs and hanging glaciers too dangerous.


expid: JUNC70301
peakid: JUNC
year: 1970
route1: S Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Michihiko Ogata
sponsor: Fukuoka Alpine Club Himalayan Committee - Dhaulagiri IV
campsites: BC(4100m),C1(4650m),C2(5000m),C3(5750m),C4(6060m),C5(6350m),C6(6900m),xxx(6900m)
primid: DHA470301
othersmts:
  Climbed Dhaulagiri VI (DHA6-703-01) and Gama Peak (GAMA-703-01); attempted Dhaulagiri IV (DHA4-703-01)


expid: KABD85101
peakid: KABD
year: 1985
route1: E Shoulder to Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Balwant Sandhu, Jean-Claude Marmier
sponsor: Joint Indian and French Army Expedition
ascent1: 3rd,4th
countries: France
approach: Yoksum->Jamlingang (BC)
bcdate: 1985-03-20
smtdate: 1985-04-03
smttime: 0900
othersmts: Attempted Kabru North (KABN-851-01)
campsites: BC(20/03,4150m),ABC(24/03,4900m),C1(5500m),C2(02/04),Smt(03,05/04)
agency: None
routememo:
  Two teams of six climbed Kabru Dome on April 3:

    1st team of six lead by Marmier left C2 and summited at 9 am.
    2nd team of six left C1 and summited at 3 pm.

  Another team or six or seven lead by Leray summited on April 4 or 5.

  3 members of first team (Marmier, Chauhan and Mailly) continued onward from summit of Kabru Down towards Kabru North, bivouacked that night, and turned back next day.


expid: KABN35301
peakid: KABN
year: 1935
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: C. R. (Reggie) Cooke
ascent1: 1st?
countries: Switzerland
approach: Darjeeling->Rathong Chu
bcdate: 1935-10-21
smtdate: 1935-11-18
termdate: 1935-11-26
othersmts: Attempted Kabru Dome (KABD-353-01)
campsites:
  BC(21/10,4660m),C1(02/11,5335m),C2(05/11,5550m),C3(09/11,5800m),C4(11/11,6100m),C5(15/11,6430m),C6(16/11,6860m),Smt(18/11)

routememo:
  Taken from Himalayan Journal, 1936

  The Ascent of Kabru 1935, By C. R. Cooke

  Kabru is the nearest of the big peaks.

  The party, consisting of ourselves and two Everest "Tigers" carefully picked for us by Mrs Townend, left Darjeeling with forty coolies on the 10th October, and travelled by the Singalila ridge. At Chiabhanjan two more "Tigers" joined us from Mrs Townend's party on its return from the Guicha La and completed the climbing party. The junction of the Rathong Chu and Churung Chu was reached on the 18th, where, after selecting six good men to assist up to the base camp, the coolies were discharged. Two days cutting through tall rhododendrons brought us to our "Rathong Camp" beside the stream. We had journeyed almost the whole way in clouds and mists, but here in the mornings before the cloud level crept up we obtained the first view of our objective and its noble satellites, Little Kabru, the Dome and Forked Peak.

  On the 21st October Schoberth and I emerged from the Rathong Valley on to the Kabru glacier and found it entirely moraine covered. No ice was visible; there lay ahead of us the most complicated succession of ridges and cross ridges, rising one behind the other, that either of us had ever seen. The mountain here must still be in process of construction, for weather effects alone could scarely split of such large and fresh looking blocks of granite and produce such debris. The glacier is evidently in rapid motion underneath, for here and there small landslips of stones rattled down at intervals.

  We scrambled to the first ridge of stones at 14,400 ft and traversing the next higher one, breasted a third ridge aat a height of 15,300 ft. Here it was seen that the glacier had an ice tongue a couple of miles farther up. The regiment of trouble some moraine ridges showed no signs of terminating, we pitched our so called Moraine-Camp on grass in a small hanging valley below the southwest corner of the glacier.

  Five days were spent in relaying the kit up from the Churung Chu and working out a route four miles to the foot of the Kabru ice-fall.

  Ang Tarke and the four high altitude porters did magnificiente work, sometimes making a double carry in one day and sometimes carrying the best part of two maunds in one load. This effort was sheer enthusiasm on their part. On the 26th Schoberth and Kitar established themselves in the Base camp while I returned once more to Moraine Camp to arrange about stocking the Base and to discharge four more men.

  On the 28th we all assembled in the Base Camp at 15,700 ft. The whole problem if climbing Kabru lies in the ascent of the icefall, and from the Base camp it looks a monster. Its lower portion sweeps up into a labyrinth of hanging seracs and grey ice walls. Schoberth thought that by mounting a  smaller ice-fall descending at the side of Dome and by crossing the upper slopes of another glacier we could get on to a shoulder of the Dome above the Kanzel rock and from there reach the main icefall. I was afraid that we should find hanging ice over that shoulder, but we decided to try.

  On the 29th we took a bivouac and camped a third of the way up the side icefall and the next day worked up the ice to a point from which we could see a clear way to the shoulder. A rather peculiar lassitude was felt on this glacier which I presume was 'glacier lassitude'  brought on by a hot sun. Returning to camp in the afternoon, the weather deteriorated and presented above us an awe inspiring sight. Cirro-cumuli had been passing over during the day, and now the summits of Kabru were hidden behind a great blurred arc of cloud, a formless shape without any defined edge evidently moving at a great pace. It was accompanied by a distant murmuring like the sea on a rough day and altogether fitted one of Scott's description of an oncoming blizzard; it must have been indeed a blizzard in operation.

  The night was windy and next morning in driving sleet, we descended to the Base camp to collect the kit for Camp I on the shoulder. On the 2nd November Camp I was fixed at 17,500 feet on the ice terrace. After a brilliantly clear night with a minimum temperature of -5 and 1/2 degree Fahrenheit, we rounded the shoulder and stood face to face with the Kabru icefall pouring over from unseen neve 3,000 ft above.

  Schoberth ahd proved correct; the back of the shoulder led easily down a ridge of soft snow into the nearest seracs. We cut steps up a depression in the first ice-wall and entered the name.

  The problem now took on the fascination of uncertainty which continued  up to the last crevasse. Frequently it appeared that there would be no way past the next icewall to the succeeding terrace above. On the 5th November, having dug Camp I into the snow and stocked it well against a forced retreat, Kitar and Jigmay accompanied us with a bivouac by the route we had prepared and pitched Camp 2 under the lee of a big wall 18,200 feet which so far had resisted our assaults. They then returned to Camp I.

  Once again the weather looked threatening with cirro-cumuli scurrying overhead and the view of Kotang peak across the moraine below interrupted by ragged cumulus clouds swirling over the glacier. We passed an extremely uncomfortable night cramped in our hastily contructed encampment, with the temperature at -8 degree F and the wind battering at the tent.

  Next day we cut steps a few feet up the ice wall and thence along a trick little ledge round a sort of gable to find that we could proceed only a short distance farther among a tangle of immense ice blocks to a very large crevasse backed by an even larger wall. We were on the right hand side of the ice-fall and the crevasse stretched to the left into the quite impossible centre position of the fall. There can be few ice falls even in the Himalaya which can show such a spectacle of titanic ice monsters wrestling with each other down such a gradient. The Kabru icefall drops 5,500 ft in about the same horizontal distance, and being fed from three extensive neve fields above, contains an immense quantity of ice. There was no way past and we were forced to return. WE now explored to the right under the hanging ice of the Dome where the crevases had been flled with fallen ice.

  After two hours cutting on a steep litte serac poised above a deep crevasse, we emerged through an overhang on to the top of the big wall. A stiff ice laden wind had been icing up our goggles and had made step cutting most uncomfortable. It was only a matter of minutes before the goggles got so iced that we could see nothing and we had to keep changing places to clean them.

  Next night we fared better for the porters had now consolidated Camp 2. Kitar had been sent down to the Base Camp to bring up Ang Tsering with some extra food, but as they had not arrived another day was spent in improving the track we had made up the wall while the two remaining porters, Jigmay and Pasang went back to the Base Camp to hurry up Ang Tsering. On the third day there was still no sign of our worthies and as further delay might lose us ths chance of reaching the summit I took a sleeping bag and set off for Camp I. Finding no one there, I passed on to the Base camp and to my great relief found the whole party ascending. Kitar had been sick and had been obliged to wait two days. After a pleasant lunch sitting in a warm sun I said goodbye to Ang Tarke and Ang Thari, who were looking after our base for us and rejoined the porters in Camp I. Porters as a rule will not remain in a camp alone.

  On the 9th November the whole party joined up with Schoberth in Camp 2, and after collecting stores for the next bivouac climbed up to 19,000 ft and pitched Camp 3 in a snow-filled crevasse. The porters then returned to Camp 2 to bring up more kit next day. In the evening it started to snow and the temperature dropped to -9 F. Through out the greater part of the 10th were confined to our tents by heavy snow and a dense fog, though in the afternoon it cleared sufficiently for us to be able to look down on the snow slopes from the edge of our hollow. To our surprise we discerned four black dots slowly ascending. We climbed down to them at once and found that our stout hearted lads were on their way up for orders. They were sent back.

  We returned early in the afternoon from our exploration of the route to Camp 4 to find no porters. This time they were resting on their laurels. Time was too precious for this, so I went off with my sleeping bag to investigate. The wind strengthened in the afternoon and whirled the fresh snow along the ground. At times it became necessary to cover my face with my ground. At times it became necessary to cover my face with my gloves and cower down on the slope to let the blast abate somewhat before proceeding. Conditions however, improved as I descended, and Camp 2 presented a peaceful scene with tent laced up, basking in a comparatively calm sun. Presently two astonished faces popped through the flap in answer to my shouts. I could not resist a laugh at their Jack-in-the box appearance, and when they saw the joke too the effect was complete. I dug them out of their sleeping bags and sent them off to Camp 3, with a load each. Fine fellows these! They took it all in the right spirit and must have had a struggle to get there.

  Next morning we all collected again in Camp 3 and carried on up the ice fall. There was no hope of surmounting the terraces at the far end of the 300 ft ice-wal owing to the risk of tumbling seracs. Camp 4 was established at 20,000 ft, a glorious display of sunset lights revealing the snows above. From now on the weather remained perfect for the rest of the climb.

  We spent a day climbing by a steep and devious route to the last crevasse of the glacier and found ourselves at last on the easy neve leading to the summit 3,000 ft above. Too lazy to climb back towards the slopes of the Dome, we took the risk of a short cut right in the maze of fallen seracs at the top of the ice-fall, prepared to rope down anything. Suddenly we recognized below us our tracks of the morning and all depended on our reaching those before dark. We cut steps along a ledge on the edge of a huge chasm; there were no holds and we had to proceed with the greatest care, but eventually, to our relief, we succeeded in joining our old tracks. This short cut served us well later.

  The wind woke us early on the morning of the 15th by the simple process of blowing the tent down. The job of getting out before sunrise and refixing it had all the exhilarating effects of a cold shower. Breakfast, as usual, consisted of porridge, bacon and eggs and a cup of Ovaltine after which we set off with the bivouac for Camp 5 with two porters while the other two went back to the Camp 3 for the last of the kit for the high camps.

  The weather became calmer and we ascended easily, improving on our route of the descent, and eventually entering a large crevasse at 21,000 ft where we decided to Camp 5.

  We took considerable trouble to select the calmest place along the snow filled bottom of the crevasse, for the wind showed signs of rising in the night. The porters went back to Camp 4 while we set about our evening meal. At sundown the wind became so powerful that it was only a matter of minutes before the canvas tore, and something had to be done at once. We discovered a shelf farther in and 40 ft higher under a portion of the crevasse wall near where it closed over altogether and formed a snow bridge 50 ft above the shelf. Here there was much better protection from the wind. We now rolled up everything and staggered up the slope of hard snow with a load in one arm and cutting steps with the other. This had to be repeated at every trip, so quickly did the wind-driven ice particles fill up the steps. Finally Schoberth shouldered the tent while I assisted from behind. At the end of the slope a sudden strong gust of wind knocked us both out our steps. Schoberth shot off down the slope but kept his head and tobogganed neatly over a small subsidiary crevasse to land in a graceful sitting posture in the pit from which we had just taken the tent. I managed to save the tent from falling into the small crevasse, from which we might not have been able to recover it.

  It was well that we moved for the wind continued to increase and gave us a disturbed night tearing across the opening of the crevasse above. It was very noticeable that throughout the climb the wind was strongest always during the night, while frequently at about midday it died away altogether for an hour or more.

  We spent the next morning crossing the neve and ascending the long low saddle which connects the Dome with the north peak of Kabru. Having seen nothing but the Dome Cliffs and Kabru since we started it was a thrill which neither of us will forget when we saw the view over the edge. Range after range of sharp rock sided peaks filled the view. From Kangchenjunga on the left the eye swept over teh entire vista of the mountains of Sikkim and rested finally on the summit of Chomo Lhari, 23,990 ft in Tibet while Sikkim itself lady hid under 4,000 square miles of flat unbroken planchette. 
   
  Camp 6 was pitched on the 16th November near the foot of the icefall which comes down from the 'ice brae' behind Kabru's two summits. I asked Ang Tsering if he would share the Mummery tent with us and try the summit next day; his reply was a graceful "I have become a little tired, but it is as the Sahibs wishes." Small wonder that he was a little tired for in spite of our remonstrance both he and Kitar had brought a full 60lb load rather make a second journey the next day. We therefore sent them back to Camp 5 for two days rest. Had we known that the wonderful weather would hold we should have brought up another tent and assembled the whole party at 22,500 ft, but with the wind danger in such an exposed place we ahd to keep Camp 5 fully equipped as a retreat. 

  The following morning I felt a little mountain sick after a very cramped night and was the cause of a late start. From here two routes to the summit ridge are possible. Schoberth suggested that if the wind was favourable we should ascend the 500 ft of steepening snow slopes above us and then climb the 1,000 ft of rocks; otherwise we would climb the more difficult but more sheltered route up the 1,500 ft of icefall. Schoberth soon developed a persistent cough and returned when we had nearly reached the rocks, to be followed a couple of hours later by me after an examination of them.

  On the 18th an hour after sunrise, we started in earnest. A bitter wind made progress slow and breathing very difficult. When we had nearly reached the rocks Schoberth's cough again bothered him very considerably and with his handicap and the fear of frostbitten hands he reluctantly decided to return. We decided that I should go on as far as possible. I climbed the first band of rocks and thence diagonally eastwards over the next band to the southeast rib. Here on the ascending a steep stretch of rocks, I could see that the slopes from the summit ridge were steep and heavily corniced at the top and that it would be better go round via the ice brae. From here onwards the snow became very steep and had been pressed so hard by the wind that it was impossible to kick steps, so it was a case of cutting steps for the next 700 ft or so to the beginning of the summit ridge. As the day wore on the wind, though cold died to a gentle breeze and the weather became quite perfect.

  On reaching the final ridge I at once encountered a stiff wind from the west. Three rounded summits appeared ahead, one behind the other and I wondered which was the summit and whether the third which looked considerably farther off could be the point marked 7935m on Kurz's map. It was very difficult to judge distance; rather despondently I traversed the first summit and rounding the second made for the farthest one, resolved to turn back should it prove too far. It turned out to be only a quarter of a mile and I found myself quicker than I expected on the top and looking down a tremendous abyss to the Talung glacier below with the unnamed peak half a mile or so along the ridge and about 300 ft lower.

  It was impossible to tell whether the south peak of Kabru was higher or not; I rather feared that it was, but from careful calculations made later from photographs the north peak works out at from 100 to 150 higher.

  On the descent I decided to take a shorter route down the south face instead of following my previous steps. From the summit ridge snow was so hard, I made a lunge down with my heel, but the nails failed to bite at all and I shot down at once on my back. About 50 ft lower a passing rock jumped me over on to my face and I got a chance to get the point of the ice axe working as brake, but there seemed little hope of stopping as the pace was terrific. I fetched up with a bang on a bulge of rock, severely shaken but unhurt. The fall was seen from Camp 6 by Ang Tsering.

  The next day we decided to get back to Camp 5. Schoberth arrived in the evening having climbed up to 23,500 with Jigmay to take photographs. It was pity that they had not started earlier, for they made good progress and could have reached the summit with more time to spare. On the 20th Schoberth decided to carry on down from Camp 5, so Ang Tsering and I donned crampons and shouldered a biovouac for an attempt on the Dome. After an easy ascent to a peak on the ridge about 200 ft higher than the actual summit, we commenced to descend the steep arete for about 600 yards. It is interesting to record that the mountain which looks so like a dome from below actually has the form of a large semicircular crater with the summit, 21,500 ft at the far end.

  It now became apparent that it would take too long to reach the summit and return, and as he had to reach Camp I on the following day we gave it up. We wasted some time on the return belaying down a short cut. having eventually to work back to our original route: however by sun down we fixed our light tent on the site of our Camp 4. Ang Tsering proved to be very steady and negotiated the steps very neatly like the born mountaineer he is.

  The party assembled once more in Camp I, every one in high spirits in calm and brilliant weather. Schoberth and I reached the Base camp on the 22nd, to be followed a day later by the porters with the last of the kit.

  We now had to wait three days for the coolies to turn up, so while Schoberth went off to climb the other side of the valley to complete his excellent series.
   
  Our route upwards was singularly deficient in belays for roping down, and having ascended 7,500 ft from our camp in the Armiun Nar, we were in no mood to descend it without using the double rope. We took infinite care on this easy ridge in view of our weariness. At about half its length a subsidiary rib was seen running direct to the glacier down the south face, and by this we descended. We reached the glacier in 3 and 1/2 hours at 5:45 pm a reflection not on the difficulties, but on our and I fear particularly my state of exhaustion.

  We reached the col soon after 6 o'clock. Here nourishment revived us all thoughts of a high bivouac were put aside and we raced down to Armiun 5,000 feet below, in less than 2 hours arrived at 8 pm.

  Both the climb, which presents no outstanding difficulties and the route by which we approached the mountain can be recommended. The route by the Armiun Nar is short and very attractive. I think, however that most parties intending to climb the peak from this south side will be wise to make a bivouac at or near the col by which we reached the Kolahoi glacier. As ascent of 7,500 ft and a descent of the same amount, with a horizontal distance of five miles each way, is a big undertaking for one day. Had we not been in good training after our Karakoram climb, we should not have managed it ourselves.


expid: KAG162101
peakid: KAG1
year: 1962
route1: N Face
nation: UK
leaders: Dorothea Gravina
ascent1: 1st
approach: Nepalganj->Jajarkot->Kaigaon
smtdate: 1962-05-23
smttime: 1200
campsites: Smt(23/05)
primid: LHAS62101
othersmts:
  Climbed Lha Shamma (LHAS-621-01), Kagmara II, Kagmara III, Dawa's Peak, Twin Peak and Triangle Peak (all 1st ascents)


expid: KAN280101
peakid: KAN2
year: 1980
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Ruedi Meier
sponsor: Neuchatel Expedition to Sisne Himal 1980
ascent1: 1st
approach: Chaudhabise Khola
bcdate: 1980-04-11
smtdate: 1980-05-03
smttime: 1130
termdate: 1980-05-09
othersmts: Attempted Kande Hiunchuli North I (KAN1-801-01)
primid: KAN180101
campsites:
  BC(11/04,4060m),C1(12/04,4800m),C2.ABC(13/04,4250m),C3(15/04,5190m),C4(23/04,5700m),C5(29/04,6150m),Smt(03/05)


expid: KAN284101
peakid: KAN2
year: 1984
route1: NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Garry Kennard
sponsor: British Kanjiroba Expedition
bcdate: 1984-04-03
smtdate: 1984-04-19
termdate: 1984-04-20
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to heavy snowfall
othersmts: Attempted Kande Hiunchuli North I (KAN1-841-01)
campsites: BC(03/04,4050m),C1(06/04,4760m),C2(08/04,4210m),C3(14/04,5650m),C4(18/04,5400m),xxx(19/04,5800m)
routememo:
  BC at Chaudhabisi Khola (way west of mountain, Swiss BC site).

  Heavy snowfall 15-17 April so stuck at C3 and kerosene stove failed so started using gas. After storm saw Swiss NW Ridge was avalanching powder snow so decided to go to unexplored NE Ridge and made C4 on glacier. Kennard now exhausted and Adams went into ridge and back to C4. No fuel left.

  Local people give name Sisne Himal to range of much lower mountains west of Chaudhabise Khola. Expedition's permit was for Kande Hiunchuli via North Ridge (there are two north summits close together shown as Sisne North and South on Swiss map).


  6 March 85 - Swiss 1980 leader Meier agrees his team scaled Kangde Hiunchuli North II and were not on Sisne, which is west of Chaudhabise Khola.

  Very long route - once run out of gear or supplies, too far to BC to get more and return to mountain.


expid: KANB30101
peakid: KANB
year: 1930
route1: N side (recon)
nation: Germany
leaders: G. O. Dyhrenfurth
countries: Austria, Switzerland, UK
primid: KANG30101
othersmts:
  Climbed Jongsang (JONG-301-01), Domo (DOMO-301-01), Nepal Peak (NEPA-301-01) and Ramtang (RAMT-301-01); attempted Kangchenjunga (KANG-301-01)


expid: KANB49101
peakid: KANB
year: 1949
route1: NW side (recon)
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Alfred Sutter
countries: Germany
bcdate: 1949-05-19
termdate: 1949-07-18
termnote: Reconnaissance
campsites: BC(19/05,4660m),C1(4900m),C2(5400m),xxx(5490m)
primid: PYRM49101
othersmts:
  Climbed Tengkoma (TENG-491-01), Sphinx (SPHN-491-01) and Dzanye (DZAN-491-01); attempted Ohmi Kangri (OHMI-491-01) and Pyramid Peak (PYRM-491-01); recon Drohmo (DROM-491-01)


expid: KANC78101
peakid: KANC
year: 1978
route1: SW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Josep Piera Queralt
bcdate: 1978-04-17
smtdate: 1978-05-18
smttime: 1620
termnote: Mistakenly stopped on subsidiary summit of Kangchenjunga Central Summit
othersmts: Attempted Yalung Kang (YALU-781-01)
campsites: BC(17/04,5170m),C1(23/04,6050m),C2(27/04,6600m),C3(05/05,7200m),C4(16/05,7600m),xxx(18/05,8410m)
primid: YALU78101
routememo:
  Subsidiary peak Kangchenjunga Central summited on May 18 by Narcis Serrat Comerma and Furi Sherpa.


  SR Sharma, Tourism - 2 Aug 78

  Leader of Yalung Kang expedition barred from climbing in Nepal for 5 years from June 1978 as penalty for his expedition's climbing on Kangchenjunga Central Peak, which is not on permitted list and for which no permission given.

  After expedition left Nepal, they wrote from New Delhi to say they had been on Kangchenjunga Central Peak.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 20 June 78

  Spanish Yalung Kang leader said his team climbed Yalung Kang. LO's of both Yalung Kang and Kangchenjunga say climbed Yalung Kang. Sharma is meeting Sherpa summiters tomorrow to question him. So far only Poles say Spaniards climbed Kangchenjunga Central summit.


  Dr. Browski, Polish Kangchenjunga Expedition - 16 June 78

  Spaniards did not attempt to climb Yalung Kang, maybe because of snow conditions. Instead went up Central Summit of Kangchenjunga. Used Polish route to C3, one or 2 days behind Poles, using Polish fixed ropes, but when had climbed to their highest point, found they were not on the highest point of Central summit.

  Leader had pneumonia. No accidents or serious frostbite.


  SR Sharma, Tourism - 21 May 78

  Scaled 18 May 16:20 hours by 
   1) Narchis Serrat Comerma
   2) Furi Sherpa, 20, Junbesi

  C4 16 May (altitude ?) returning to KTM; leave BC 22 May.


  Prunes & Marti - 7 March 77

  Expect others by truck from Terrasse. Were in Belgrade 24 Feb and after this no news: arrive Rorland 8-10 March and go direct to Biratnagar and Dharan at Dharan 12 March earliest.

  5 Sherpas above BC and sirdar Ang Tsering.
  Oxygen for climbing above 7500m in C4 and last day
  Will follow 1975 spring German route on South Face to main peak.

  3 weeks Dharan to BC about 3 weeks so early April. BC 5500m like Germans (with acclimatizations and with dump 4800m).

  C4 just under couloir at about 7800m = highest camp probably
  Summit about 15-20 May.
  2 first camps - 10 days; 10 days about C2 -> C3; easy C3 -> C4, then wait for good weather.


expid: KANC84101
peakid: KANC
year: 1984
route1: SW Face-Central Smt
route2: W Face-S Smt-Central Smt
nation: Japan
leaders: Katsuhiko Kano
sponsor: Nepal-Japan Kangchenjunga Expedition 1984
ascent1: 2nd
ascent2: 3rd
countries: Nepal
bcdate: 1984-03-07
smtdate: 1984-05-17
smttime: 1543
termdate: 1984-05-22
primid: KANG84101
othersmts:
  Climbed Kangchengunga Main (KANG-841-01) and South (KANS-841-01); permit for Yalung Kang (YALU-841-01)

campsites:
  BC(07/03,5500m),C1(20/03,6150m),C2(25/03,6600m),C3.ABC(13/04,7200m),C4.C(01/05,7850m),C5.C(04/05,8200m),Smt(17-18/05)


expid: KANC89101
peakid: KANC
year: 1989
route1: SW side-N Ridge
route2: SW side-N Ridge up; N Ridge-Main Smt down
route3: Y Kang/Main Smts-N Ridge up; S Ridge-S Smt down
route4: S Smt-S Ridge up; N Ridge-Main/YK Smts down
nation: USSR
leaders: Eduard Myslovsky
sponsor: Soviet Expedition to Kangchenjunga Massif
ascent1: 4th
ascent2: 5th
ascent3: 6th
ascent4: 7th
bcdate: 1989-03-09
smtdate: 1989-04-15
smttime: 1730
agency: Amtrek
primid: KANG89101
othersmts:
  Climbed/traversed other Kangchenjunga summits (KANG-891-01, KANS-891-01) and Yalung Kang (YALU-891-01)

campsites:
  BC(09/03,5350m),C1(16/03,6150m),C2(18/03,6450m),C3(24/03,7250m),C4,C5(15/04,8200m),Smt(15,29/04,01/05)


expid: KANC91101
peakid: KANC
year: 1991
route1: SW Face to Central Smt
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Tone Skarja
sponsor: Slovene Himalayan Expedition to Kangchenjunga & Jannu
ascent1: 8th
bcdate: 1991-04-12
smtdate: 1991-05-01
smttime: 1040
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),C1(15/04,6200m),C2(20/04,6750m),C3(22/04,7250m),C4(30/04,7600m),Smt(01/05)
primid: KANG91102
othersmts:
  Climbed Kangchenjunga (KANG-911-02), Kangchenjunga South (KANS-911-01); climbed Talung illegally (TLNG-911-01); attempted Jannu (JANE-911-01)


expid: KAND72301
peakid: KAND
year: 1972
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiroshi Nishino
sponsor: Expedition from Tokyo Yamatabi Alpine Club to Kande Hiunchuli
ascent1: 1st claimed
approach: Jumla (by air)
bcdate: 1972-09-30
smtdate: 1972-10-18
smttime: 0900
termnote: Success claimed (but perhaps a different peak)
campsites: BC(30/09,3800m),C1(05/10,4500m),C2(12/10,5100m),C3,C4(6200m),Smt(18/10)
routememo:
  Nishino - 24 Nov 72

  Climbed Kande Hiunchuli from southwest on 18 Oct by Kuwahata and Hirota. Difficult snow face, very steep. 

  4 high camps with highest about 6200m (altimeter out of order).
  Previous parties were weaker than present team on Kande Hiunchuli
  Most difficult between C2 and C3 snow face very difficult.
  Summit reached 18 Oct; left C4 6 am and reached top 9 am.

  Planned all members go to summit but were 1st year students of Himalayas and decided leave it to others. Shibata had become snowblinded on 16th between C3 and C4 making route to C4 and took off goggles while smoking cigarette, thus snowblinded for 1 day: good medicine in C3 and stayed in C3. No accident or other illness and frostbite.

  Nishino and Hirota arrive today ex-Jumla; others trekking and arrive 10 Dec.


  Shrestha, MFA - 27 Oct 72

  Patrasi

  2 members climbed 18 Oct: Shigeru Kawahata and Toyokazu Hirota
  All returned base 20 Oct


  Nishino & Shibata - 29 Aug 72

  4 Japanese and 1 Sherpa
  Kande Hiunchuli in Patrasi Himal

  Leave KTM by air to Jumla about 15 Sept. Wait KTM for monsoon end. Caravan about 8 days Jumla->BC, so reach BC about 25 Sept. Summit attack about 15 Oct.


expid: KANG29201
peakid: KANG
year: 1929
route1: ESE Ridge (recon)
route2: NE Spur-N Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Paul Bauer
countries: Austria, UK
approach: Darjeeling->Gangtok->Lachen->Yaktang (BC)
bcdate: 1929-08-10
smtdate: 1929-10-03
termdate: 1929-10-18
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to bad weather
campsites:
  BC(10/08,3360m),C2(3860m),C3(14/08,4370m),C4A(18/08,4790m),C4B(4900m),C5(29/08,4980m),C6.ABC(01/09,5140m),C7(02/09,5660m),C8(22/09,6270m),C9(27/09,6570m),C10(02/10,7020m),xxx(03/10,7400m)


expid: KANG30101
peakid: KANG
year: 1930
route1: N Face-N Ridge (to 6400m)
route2: NW Ridge (to 6380m)
nation: Germany
leaders: G. O. Dyhrenfurth
countries: Austria, Switzerland, UK
approach: Darjeeling->Ghunsa->Pangpema (BC); return via Nepal Gap->Sikkim
bcdate: 1930-04-26
smtdate: 1930-05-05
termdate: 1930-05-21
accidents: 1 Sherpa killed by avalanche
othersmts:
  Climbed Jongsang (JONG-301-01), Domo (DOMO-301-01), Nepal Peak (NEPA-301-01) and Ramtang (RAMT-301-01); recon Kangbachen (KANB-301-01)

campsites:
  BC(26/04,5050m),C1(01/05,5300m),C2A(02/05,5780m),C2B(04/05,5930m),xxx(05/05,6400m);
  NW-Ridge.C1(11/05,5420m),C2(12/05,5975m),C3(18/05,6150m),xxx(19/05,6380m)

routememo:
  Found G. O. Dyhrenfurth's ice axe and remains of his Sherpa who died in avalanche (pre-war clothing and small bones).


  Letter from Norman Dyhrenfurth - 25 Nov 1987

  Chettan was crushed by a huge ice avalanche on May 8, 1930, and after more than an hour of artificial respiration he was buried near C2. My father's old ice-axe was indeed placed on his grave. Perhaps a recent avalanche brought his remains to the surface, and broke the ice axe as well. What a strong coincidence! I certainly look forward to receiving the two pieces. Knowing of no other climber climber killed at that place, it certainly must be Chettan.


expid: KANG31201
peakid: KANG
year: 1931
route1: E Spur-N Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Paul Bauer
countries: Austria
approach: Darjeeling->Gangtok->Lachen->Yaktang (BC)
bcdate: 1931-07-03
smtdate: 1931-09-18
termdate: 1931-10-09
othersmts: Climbed Sugarloaf (in Sikkim)
accidents: 1 member and 1 Sherpa killed in fall; 2 Sherpas died of illness
campsites:
  BC(03/07,3360m),C2(3850m),C3(06/07,4525m),C4(11/07),C5(12/07),C6.ABC(13/07,5275m),C7(5500m),C8(26/08,6300m),C9(03/09,6600m),C10(10/09,7200m),C11(16/09,7650m),xxx(18/09,7940m)


expid: KANG55101
peakid: KANG
year: 1955
route1: SW Face
nation: UK
leaders: Charles Evans
sponsor: British Expedition to Kangchenjunga
ascent1: 1st,2nd
countries: New Zealand
approach: Darjeeling->Singalila Ridge->Tseram->Yalung Valley
bcdate: 1955-04-12
smtdate: 1955-05-25
smttime: 1445
termdate: 1955-06-06
othersmts: Attempted Kotang (KOTA-551-01) and Talung (TLNG-551-01)
accidents: Pemi Dorje Sherpa died of stroke
campsites:
  BC1(12/04,5000m),BC2(5485m),C1(26/04,6000m),C2(28/04,6220m),C3(04/05,6650m),C4(12/05,7160m),C5(13/05,7710m),C6(24/05,8200m),Smt(25-26/05)


expid: KANG87102
peakid: KANG
year: 1987
route1: NE Spur from E
nation: India
leaders: Prem Lal Kukrety
sponsor: Indian Army Assam Rifles
ascent1: 21st,22nd
countries: Nepal
bcdate: 1987-03-15
smtdate: 1987-05-25
campsites:
  BC(15/03,4690m),ABC(24/03,5000m),C1(31/03,5600m),C2(02/04,6000m),C3(20/04,6300m),C4(30/04,6650m),C5(16/05,7250m),C6(22/05,7750m),C7(29/05,8180m),Smt(25,31/05)

routememo:
  Indian newspaper - Times of India or Statesman?

  The team established the BC near Green Lake at an altitude of 4690m while the advance base camps was established on the Zemu Glacier at an elevation of about 5000m. Six more camps were established to reach a height of 7750m in the face of heavy snowfall and blizzards. It was on May 24 that the first party started off to the final assault from C6. It was scheduled to return after scaling the peak on May 26. The party comprised the Everest hero Phu Dorjee, Lance Naik Choten Tsering of the Kamet fame and Lance Naik Phupu Bhutia who had proved his skill during the expedition to the Chomo Yomo peak.

  The party was, presumably, confronted with a blizzard and it lost contact with C6. A five-member team was sent on May 27 to search for their missing colleagues. They set up a camp at an altitude of 8180m. However, despite a rigorous search of three days, it proved futile. The five-member party was asked to attempt the peak on May 30 but they had to abandon the effort less than 100 ft from the peak owing to a severe snowstorm. Another attempt was made by three members of the team on the next day and at about 1:00 pm Chander Singh, Bhawan Singh and Subhas Limbu tasted success. But one more misfortune was yet to over come the party. The leader of the second party, Chander Singh, after successfully scaling the peak, slipped and fell down towards the Sikkim side of the summit. His colleagues waited for some time for his return though they knew that only a miracle could have saved anyone falling from that particular side. Enroute they had found the prayer flag of Phu Dorjee just about 25 ft below the summit. It was believed that Phu Dorjee and his collegues Choten Tsering and Phupu Bhutia had scaled the peak but had been blown off by a blinding snowstom. As a rule the mountaineers do not climb the last six feet to the peak as the local people worship the mountains and to "conquer a mountain" is considered to be sacrilege. Therefore the discovery of Phu Dorjee's prayer flag a little below the summit signified that they had been able to scale the mountain. Though only six members of the team were finally able to scale the peak, it was the joint effort of the entire group that went into making the expedition a success.

  During the first assault on the peak by the second team, Ghale was among the five who were within sight of their dream. Suddenly Norden Lepcha slipped and fell. Luckily his snow axe stuck against the mountain sides and he had a providential escape. The sudden jerk had led to a fracture and he could not move without support. Ghale, as the leader of the team, volunteered to escort him back and asked the others to attempt the peak. Ghale brought his injured colleague back to the camp and administered first aid. His other colleagues also arrived in the camp after failing to scale the peak. Next day Ghale asked them to make a fresh attempt while he remained to nurse his injured comrade.

  The second attempt by the other three proved to be a success. Ghale had seen them nearing the summit from his camp but his vision was blurred due to snowfall. They did not return till the evening. He himself had contracted a throat infection and could not speak. He kept awake the entire night to attend to Lepcha's leg. He decided to look for his colleagues the next morning since he could not shout for them because of his throat. Early in the morning he saw two of them returning to camp. "They kept crying like babies when I asked them about Chander Singh," he recalls. With great pain and amidst sobs they revealed that Chander Singh had fallen off from near the summit after scaling it. They had waited in the open the entire night for him and had themselves suffered frost-bite. Ghale helped them both and Lepcha to climb down to C6.


expid: KANS84101
peakid: KANS
year: 1984
route1: W Face-S Smt
nation: Japan
leaders: Katsuhiko Kano
sponsor: Nepal-Japan Kangchenjunga Expedition 1984
ascent1: 2nd
countries: Nepal
approach: Hile->Taplejung->Yalung Glacier
bcdate: 1984-03-07
smtdate: 1984-05-18
smttime: 0730
termdate: 1984-05-22
primid: KANG84101
othersmts:
  Climbed Kangchengunga Main (KANG-841-01) and Central (KANC-841-01); permit for Yalung Kang (YALU-841-01)

campsites:
  BC(07/03,5500m),C1(20/03,6150m),C2(25/03,6600m),C3.ABC(13/04,7200m),C4.S(29/04,7800m),C5.S(07/05,8300m),Smt(18/05)


expid: KANS89101
peakid: KANS
year: 1989
route1: SW Rib-W Face
route2: SW Rib-W Face up; N Ridge-Central/Main/YK down
route3: YK/Main/Central-N Ridge up; W Face-SW Rib down
nation: USSR
leaders: Eduard Myslovsky
sponsor: Soviet Expedition to Kangchenjunga Massif
ascent1: 3rd,4th
ascent2: 5th
ascent3: 6th
bcdate: 1989-03-09
smtdate: 1989-04-15
smttime: 1440
agency: Amtrek
primid: KANG89101
othersmts:
  Climbed/traversed other Kangchenjunga summits (KANC-891-01, KANS-891-01) and Yalung Kang (YALU-891-01)

campsites:
  BC(09/03,5350m),C1(16/03,6150m),C2(18/03,6450m),C3(24/03,7250m),C4(7600m),C5(14/04,8200m),Smt(15,17/04,01/05)


expid: KANS91101
peakid: KANS
year: 1991
route1: S Ridge up; SW Face down
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Tone Skarja
sponsor: Slovene Himalayan Expedition to Kangchenjunga & Jannu
ascent1: 7th
bcdate: 1991-04-12
smtdate: 1991-04-30
smttime: 1645
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),Biv1(26/04,6200m),Biv2(27/04,7250m),Biv3(28/04,7600m),Biv4(29/04,7900m),Smt(30/04)
primid: KANG91102
othersmts:
  Climbed Kangchenjunga (KANG-911-02), Kangchenjunga Central (KANC-911-01); climbed Talung illegally (TLNG-911-01); attempted Jannu (JANE-911-01)

routememo:
  From camp 2 days before BC, 2 South Ridge climbers (Marko and Stremfelj) and Rupar climbed Boktoh Peak (6142m) in one day up and down on East Face to NE Ridge on 10 April. Then to BC on 12 April. 19 April Marko and Stremfelj left BC for Talung and made biv at 6500m up NW face to West slopes. 20th to summit by Marko and 50m by Stremfelj below because strong winds and back to BC: left BC 8:30 am, on top 12:00 am and with good snow conditions but high winds (had been some hard ice between serac below biv and crevasses also, below with just one bridge) and back at BC 5:00 am same day, very tired.

  Rested BC 5 days and left BC 26 April to South Ridge taking tent, 2 sleeping bags, stove and gas, 2 ropes and made 1st biv that afternoon 5:00 pm expecting just to eat but snowfell and stayed the night. 30th 6:00 am, left 4th biv, both on top 4:45 and 5:00 pm and down to C3 at 1:30 am 1 May. most difficult peak was from bottom of small face at 5550m to 6400m: very steep rock and some ice - fixed no ropes, so almost impossible to descend this way. Also very difficult hard and steep ice (and now had no climbing rope left) from top to bottom of couloir at 7200m to 7700m above C3.


expid: KCHN53101
peakid: KCHN
year: 1953
route1: Kangchung La-E Ridge from S
nation: UK
leaders: John Hunt
sponsor: British Expedition to Mt. Everest
ascent1: 1st
countries: New Zealand
smtdate: 1953-04-04
campsites: Smt(04/04)
routememo: Used oxygen for testing O2 equipment prior to Everest attempt.
primid: EVER53101
othersmts:
  Climbed Everest (EVER-531-01), Ambu Gyabjen (AMBG-531-01), Imjatse (IMJA-531-01), Pointed Peak (POIN-531-01), Pokalde (POKA-531-01) and Chhukung Tse (CHUK-531-01)


expid: KGUR55201
peakid: KGUR
year: 1955
route1: W Face-NW Ridge
nation: W Germany
leaders: Heinz Steinmetz
sponsor: German Nepal Expedition
ascent1: 1st
smtdate: 1955-07-02
campsites: Smt(02/07)
primid: ANN455101
othersmts:
  Climbed Annapurna IV (ANN4-551-01), Chulu East (CHUE-552-01), Pisang (PISA-552-01), Dam Kang West, Kang Juri, Lamjung West and Yulo Kang (all 1st ascents); recon Lamjung (LAMJ-552-01)


expid: KGUR50201
peakid: KGUR
year: 1950
route1: NW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: H. W. Tilman
sponsor: British West Nepal Expedition
countries: New Zealand
approach: Manang->Kang La->Naurgaon->Kang Guru BC
bcdate: 1950-07-02
smtdate: 1950-07-06
termdate: 1950-07-07
othersmts: Attempted Annapurna IV (ANN4-502-01); recon Annapurna II (ANN2-502-01) and Manaslu (MANA-502-01)
campsites: BC(02/07,5200m),C1(04/07,6000m),C2(05/07,6150m),xxx(06/07,6275m)
primid: ANN450201
routememo:
  Email from Packard to Salisbury - Jan 15, 2004

  Sorry I couldn't be so prompt in my reply to your second email - but it has been interesting hunting through my old diaries of the trip!

  And would you believe it my diary is missing the pages between and Wednesday 5 July!!! I've reread Tilman's account, and that prompts my memory a little, as does my photo album. The whole lower mountain was climbed up slopes in persistent cloud, and there was no sense of a 'base' camp in ordinary climbing assault terms. A day and a halfs semi-fine weather at about 17,000 ft enabled us to dry out tents and clothes on the shaly moraine [Tilman's 2 July camp, and what you might term 'base camp']. From there we went up to 'Camp One' at about 19,700 ft, and thence, perforce a single tent 'Camp Two' was pitched at approx 20,200 ft on July 5. The next day, Emlyn Jones and I went on up only about 400 ft before retreating.

  You ask about Sherpas - the four with the expedition carried up to Camp One, but my memory is that only two of them carried up to Camp Two. The Kang Guru venture was conceived to be a light weight reconnaisance.


expid: KUSU78301
peakid: KUSU
year: 1978
route1: N Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kaoru Sumiyoshi
sponsor: Pushki Club
smtdate: 1978-10-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6150m due to deep snow and lack of snow bars
campsites: xxx(30/10,6150m)
routememo:
  Okhawara - 5 Feb 79

  Pushki = Japanese club attempted Kusum Kangru (1978) last autumn; will try again next autumn with Dr. Sumiyoshi again leader.

  Last autumn: 5 Japanese climbers including leader and 2 Nepalis, Pemba Sherpa and Dawa Lama Tamang reached 6000m+.
   
  Route from Kyasha Glacier north of mountain and southwest of Kangtega. Tried North Ridge which required lot of fixed rope and deep snow (required many snow bars and not enough brought) - ridge very sharp. Spent 4 weeks on mountain.


expid: KUSU79302
peakid: KUSU
year: 1979
route1: SE Face
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Peter Hillary
sponsor: New Zealand Ama Dablam Expedition 1979
approach: Lamosangu->Monzo->BC
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to bad weather, lack of supplies and exhaustion
othersmts: Attempted Ama Dablam (AMAD-793-02)
campsites: xxx(6200m)
primid: AMAD79302
routememo:
  Letter from P. Hillary - 11 April 79

  This Kusum Kanguru expedition is certainly having its problems. We attempted to put a basecamp up the valley from Ghat but were daunted by ravines and juniper. You need a week of accesss preparation for that side. So then we decided to try the Monzo side, the one attempted by the Japnaese. It looks the most feasible route from the two eastern valleys. Murray and I climbed up to over 17,000 ft yesterday and he has become a friend. Murray expressed his doubts, mainly of himself. We talked and Murray agreed he really didn't want to climb KK. So the situation now is Nena and I will make an attempt. Please put Nena's name on our climbing permit and seek another week's climbing time on to our mountain climbing period (making it the 5th of May our last day on the mountain).


expid: KUSU80301
peakid: KUSU
year: 1980
route1: N Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Yasuji Kato
sponsor: Tokyo Himalayan Expedition
bcdate: 1980-11-25
smtdate: 1980-11-27
termdate: 1980-11-29
termnote: Abandoned at 5300m due to fatique from Ama Dablam climb
othersmts: Climbed Ama Dablam (AMAD-803-02)
campsites: BC(25/11),xxx(27/11,5300m)
primid: AMAD80302
routememo:
  Kato - 4 Dec 80

  Kusum Kangru:

  North Face or West Ridge routes; very near so same BC for both routes; had even hoped to climb both routes, but found after Ama Dablam were very tired, so after only couple days climbing gave up.

  25th Nov established BC at 4300m on northwest side of KK and climbed for 2-3 hours.

  26th - 500m climb

  27th - 1000m climb; saw North Face and West Ridge were very difficult, more equipment necessary and food insufficient. Reached 5300m by 2 members Kato and Tomita.

  28th returned to BC where Ogawa had stayed.


  Kusum Kangru

  Japanese Ama Dablam expedition autumn 1980 had hoped to climb KK's and North Face or West Ridge or both (from same BC), but were so tired after Ama Dablam ascent they gave up after couple of days climbing.


expid: KUSU81302
peakid: KUSU
year: 1981
route1: SW Buttress (W Face) up; NW side down from E Smt
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Bill Denz
ascent1: 1st?
smtdate: 1981-10-07
campsites: Smt(07/10)
routememo:
  Bill Denz made a solo traverse of the mountain in October via the West Face to the main summit and then traversed the ridge to the NE Summit before descending the northwest flank.


  Paul Maxim (Denz biographer) - 7 Aug 2010 (email)

  Bill Denz of New Zealand did 4 trips to Nepal for the sole purpose of climbing. Details are as follows:

  (1) Kusum Kanguru Oct 1981. Obtained permission to climb this peak which he did Oct 5-8th, completely solo and in doing so made the 1st ascent of the high peak, 1st solo ascent of the peak and 1st traverse of the mountain. From Lukla he established his base camp at 16,000 ft under the Southwest Face on Oct 1, but declined to climb the face due to falling ice and so started out up the rock/snow/ice buttress on its left side on the 5th. Spent one and a half days climbing this feature to the West Summit where he bivied waiting for a frost to help stabilise the ridge to the high summit. This he climbed on the 7th, taking all day in the very difficult and trying conditions. Bivied on the high peak that night then descended the Northwest Flank into the Kyashar watershed. Spent two more days bush bashing back out onto the Everest trail.

  (2) Menlungste attempt Sept 1982/Oct. Illegal solo attempt on this untouched peak which lies just inside Tibet. Accessed the mountain via the Rolwaling Valley and a high pass and set up a base camp inside Tibet at 17,800 ft and directly under the southern flanks of the peak. Set out to climb the peak, but managed only a few hundred metres before aborting to ensure the safe return of his novice partner from base camp should he be killed climbing. Endured a long hard descent back into Nepal via another route due to storms and lack of food. Denz was the 1st climber ever to attempt the peak. 

  (3) Menlungste attempt April 1983. A second completely solo attempt via the same route as above, but unable to make the pass due to high avalanche conditions.

  (4) Makalu. Attempt on West Pillar, oxygen free and alpine style with Peter Hillary (NZ), Fred From (AU) and Mark Moorhead (AU). Strong progress made right up to Oct 3 when From and Denz were caught in small slab avalanche at 6300m. Denz buried and killed. Moorhead also killed in a fall several days later. Expedition called off despite less than 900 metres of relatively easy travel remaining to summit.


expid: KUSU83301
peakid: KUSU
year: 1983
route1: NE Ridge-E Smt
nation: UK
leaders: David Hopkins
countries: Canada, Switzerland
approach: Kirantichap->Monjo->Kyashar Glacier (BC)
bcdate: 1983-09-04
smtdate: 1983-09-16
termdate: 1983-09-18
campsites: BC(04/09,4200m),CaveCamp(12/09,5180m),ColCamp(15/09,6000m),E-Smt(16/09,6356m)
routememo:
  Guy Neithardt (Swiss) and Andrew Wielochowski (British) made the first ascent of the NE Ridge of Kusum Kanguru East and the fifth ascent of the summit on Sept 16. The two other members, Richard Backus (Canadian) and I (Welsh) twice reached 20,000 feet at the base of the summit pyramid of the NE Ridge. The climb was completed alpine-style in a one-week absence from Base Camp. The Base Camp was established on Sept 5 at 14,050 feet at the snout of the Kyashar Glacier. It was reached in two days from Monjo, a small village two hour's walk north of Namche Bazar. The route had six distinct sections. First we folloed the southeast moraine of the Kyashar Glacier to a steep ascent toward the col between Kusum Kanguru and Charpati. We bivouacked on Sept 12 at 17,000 ft. Second, we climbed the small but complex glacier descending from the col to a flat basin below the col. Third, we ascended an 800-foot 45-degree snow rib to the col with 650 feet of fixed rope. We camped in the col at 18,550 feet. Fourth, the NE Ridge presented rock and ice difficulties where we first followed ledges on the southeast and then in the centre of the ridge. Fifth, the steep face leading to the top of the NE Buttress (20,400 ft) provided more difficulties and complex route-finding on loose rock and variable snow. Sixth, the knife-edged snow ridge was followed to the East Summit (6356 meters, 20,854 ft)

  David Hopkins, Association of British Mountain Guides and AAC


expid: KUSU83302
peakid: KUSU
year: 1983
route1: SE Face-N Ridge?
nation: Japan
leaders: Masato Okamoto
sponsor: Kansai Students Mountaineering Federation
ascent1: 3rd,4th?
bcdate: 1983-10-06
smtdate: 1983-10-15
smttime: 1115
termdate: 1983-10-19
campsites: BC(06/10,4900m),ABC(10/10,5600m),Biv(14/10,6190m),Smt(15-16/10)
routememo:
  Iwa-To-Yuki, April 84

  The 7-man AAVK's OB party of Osaka, led by Masato Okamoto (35), climbed by SE Face. The party traced the Takamatsu Ciy Workers Alpine Club party's of 1979. They made BC (4900m) on Oct 6. Two members attempted an alpine style push but the bad weather forced them to abandon it. Five members made ABC (5600m) on 10th. On 14th Yasuji Takatsuka (27), Tatsuya Ohmura (24), Masahiro Nomura (28) and Yoshiaki Horie (26) set out from ABC and reached a col at 6190m and bivouaced there. They reached the top of the main peak next morning. On 15th Kaname Minemoto (28), Atsushi Fujiyama (26) and leader Okamoto set out ABC and bivouacked at 6000m. They reached the top of North Peak next afternoon. BC was evacuated on 19th.


  Iwa-To-Yuki 1984

  The 7-man Kansai Students Mtng Federation party of Japan led by Masato Okamoto (35), climbed by SE Ridge by all members in autumn. BC (4900m) was made on Oct 6 and Masahiro Nomura (28) and Yoshiaki Horie (26) who had just come back from Masherbrum attempted an alpine-style push, but were soon repelled by bad weather. Loads were ferried to 5500m and ABC (5600m) was made on 10th. Yasuji Takatsuka (27), Tatsuya Ohmura (24) and Nomura and Horie set out ABC on 14th and reached the top via the 6190m col and bivouacked there, North Peak and to the top at 11:15 on 15th. Kaname Minemoto (28), Atsushi Fujiyama(26) and leader Okamoto also got to the top of North Peak on 16th.


expid: KUSU88301
peakid: KUSU
year: 1988
route1: SE Face
nation: UK
leaders: Nick Mason
ascent1: 6th?
approach: Ringmo->Pangkama La->Tulikarke->Tushingdingma->Hinke
bcdate: 1988-10-06
smtdate: 1988-10-23
smttime: 0715
campsites: BC(06/10,4100m),C1(10/10,4875m),C2(12/10,5790m),C3(22/10,6250m),Smt(23/10)
achievment: New route, 1st Britons to summit
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC at Lungsumba (just below Lungsamba Glacier)
  C1 at rocky moraine below glacier
  C2 at glacier
  C3 at top ridge (top of face).

  Climb actually began from C2. Fixed 3000 ft (900m) of rope. Was lot of rock fall on face: could climb only till 9:00 am. Climbing as expected (much ice floating in 1979 Peter Hillary pix had fallen off).


expid: LAMJ55201
peakid: LAMJ
year: 1955
route1: Reconnaissance
nation: W Germany
leaders: Heinz Steinmetz
sponsor: German Nepal Expedition
primid: ANN455101
othersmts:
  Climbed Annapurna IV (ANN4-551-01), Chulu East (CHUE-552-01), Kang Guru (KGUR-552-01), Pisang (PISA-552-01), Dam Kang West, Kang Juri, Lamjung West and Yulo Kang (all 1st ascents)


expid: LANG61101
peakid: LANG
year: 1961
route1: Lirung Glacier-E Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kaichi Morimoto
sponsor: Osaka City University
bcdate: 1961-04-08
termdate: 1961-05-13
termnote: Abandoned after 2 members and 1 Sherpa killed by avalanche
campsites: BC(08/04,4000m),C1(13/04,4200m),C2(16/04,5070m),C3(21/04,5600m),xxx(6450m)
accidents: Leader, 1 member and 1 Sherpa killed in avalanche
routememo:
  Langtang Lirung (7245m)

  In the premonsoon of 1961, a six-man Osaka City Univ party, led by Kaichi Morimoto, abandoned the attempt at a high point of 6450m as a result of the death accident by an avalanche. Leader Morimoto and Sherpa Gyaltzen Norbu were killed.

  Unknown which two members reached 6450m.


expid: LEON57101
peakid: LEON
year: 1957
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Crosby Fox
sponsor: Yorkshire Ramblers Club
bcdate: 1957-04-14
smtdate: 1957-04-30
termdate: 1957-05-04
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to fatal avalanche
campsites: BC(14/04,4115m),C1,C2,C3(5180m),C4(5640m),xxx(30/04,6100m)
accidents: Fox and 2 Sherpas killed in avalanche
routememo:
  Sherpas (names from literature):
    Mingma Tensing (sirdar) (#199, born 1933)
    Pemba Gyaltsen
    Lhakpa Tsering
    Lhakpa Norbu
    Ang Temba (born 1929?)
    Pemba Tensing (born 1931?)


expid: LEON58101
peakid: LEON
year: 1958
route1: E Ridge from SE (recon)
nation: Japan
leaders: Kyuya Fukata
sponsor: Artist's Alpine Club
approach: Kathmandu->Balephi Khola
bcdate: 1958-04-27
smtdate: 1958-05-10
termdate: 1958-05-23
termnote: No real attempt made due to difficulty of route
othersmts: Recon Phurbi Chhyachu (PHUR-581-01)
campsites: BC(27/04,3960m),C1(04/05),C2(08/05),C3(10/05,4900m),xxx
routememo:
  Sherpas (names from literature):
    Pasang Phutar
    Lhakpa Tensing (#218, born 1928)
    Dawa Tondup (#49, born 1907)


expid: LEON61101
peakid: LEON
year: 1961
route1: E Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Tokujiro Kajimoto
sponsor: All Japan Mountaineering Association Himalayan Expedition
bcdate: 1961-04-15
smtdate: 1961-05-13
termdate: 1961-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 7050m due to bad weather and shortage of food in high camps
othersmts: Climbed Leonpo Gang East (LEOE-611-01) and Gumasi Peak (May 13 by Nomura, Yamada, 2 Sherpas)
campsites:
  BC(15/04,4200m),C1(17/04,4400m),C2(19/04,4900m),C3(24/04,5400m),C4(27/04,5800m),C5(30/04,6100m),C6(10/05,6700m),Biv(12/05,6990m),xxx(13/05,7050m)

routememo:
  Gumasi Peak climbed on May 13 by Nomura, Yamada Tshering Tarke Sherpa and "Ira" Tshering Sherpa (Ira is Japanese phonetic spelling).


expid: LEON62101
peakid: LEON
year: 1962
route1: E Ridge from Phurbi Chyachumbu Glacier
nation: Japan
leaders: Akira Takahashi
sponsor: All Japan Himalayan Expedition (Tokyo)
ascent1: 1st,2nd
bcdate: 1962-03-24
smtdate: 1962-05-03
smttime: 1403
termdate: 1962-05-17
campsites:
  BC(24/03,4075m),ABC(28/03,4450m),C1(4400m),C2(5020m),C3(10/04,5380m),C4(5640m),C5(5910m),C6(6450m),C7(6850m),Smt(03,05/05)


expid: LHAS62101
peakid: LHAS
year: 1962
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Dorothea Gravina
ascent1: 1st,2nd
approach: Nepalganj->Jajarkot->Kaigaon
smtdate: 1962-05-14
smttime: 0930
campsites: BC,C1(30/04),C2(03/05,5500m),C3(04/05,6100m),Smt(14-15/05)
othersmts:
  Climbed Kagmara I (KAG1-621-01), Kagmara II, Kagmara III, Dawa's Peak, Twin Peak and Triangle Peak (all 1st ascents)


expid: LHAS64301
peakid: LHAS
year: 1964
route1: W Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: John Baird Tyson
sponsor: Mount Everest Foundation and Royal Geographical Society
termnote: Abandoned at 6250m due to snow falling
othersmts: Climbed Bhulu Lasa (1st ascent) (BHUL-643-01)
campsites: BC(4200m),C1(5800m),xxx(6260m)
routememo:
  Tyson's expedition devoted most of its efforts to exploring and mapping Langu River.

  Bhulu Lhasa, a 21,000 ft peak in Kanjiroba Himal, climbed by Tyson, Cole and Kendall and Mingma Sherpa on October 31 (11:00 am).

  Oct 28 - BC (4900m) at glacier under N Face
  Oct 29 - C1 (5500m) on a col on W Ridge
  Oct 30 - C2 (5800m)
  Oct 31 - Smt


expid: LHOT90101
peakid: LHOT
year: 1990
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Glenn Porzak
sponsor: 1990 American Everest-Lhotse Expedition
ascent1: 22nd
bcdate: 1990-04-01
smtdate: 1990-05-13
smttime: 1045
termdate: 1990-05-18
othersmts: Climbed Everest (EVER-901-07)
campsites: BC(01/04,5350m),C1(06/04,6000m),C2(08/04,6600m),C3(15/04,7150m),C4(27/04,7900m),Smt(13/05)
agency: Mountain Travel
primid: EVER90107
routememo:
  Berg and Fischer only member who made attempt to Lhotse summit, but Athans and Lakpass wanted both Everest and Lhotse summits but gave priority to Everest. Athans sited Lhotse's C4. 1st US ascent of Lhotse was enduring goal of Berg and Fischer; also climbing without Sherpas appealed to them too. After Lhotse C4 was sited, US got involved with Nepal army Everest team's fixing rope on Lhotse Face including Berg on this work. Some had hoped to go to Everest summit with 2nd army team; this didn't happen and all back to BC. Next on Lhotse Sherpa carry of gear to Lhotse C4 on 10 May with Berg, Fischer and Lakpass planning Lhotse summit bid the day after Everest was scaled by the others (needed than regulators). Then Berg and Fisher from C3 involved in rescuing altitude sick Browning down to C2 on 10th. Then decided definitely to use oxygen; tired on 11th so rested that day. 12th from C2 to Lhotse C4, rested from 5:00 pm till start for top 4:30 am 13th climbing on oxygen - reached top in high winds and low visibility at 10:45 am via the couloir and back to C2 6:00 pm of 13th. Had planned to go to top from C3 but after Browning rescue knew had to rest at Lhotse C4 as well as use oxygen. "Very exciting climb for us" as 1st American on top of Lhotse.


  Wally Berg - 27 May 1990

  10 minutes after we radioed from summit of Lhotse, the Sherpas were "putting on city clothes and taking baths." Despite Porzak's telling Sherpas in advance Berg and Fischer were to try Everest summit, Sherpas weren't ready to cooperate after other Everest successes and Lhotse's.

  Berg and Fischer could have gone for Everest top with Swiss if Berg and Fischer were prepared to go and no lower than C2 and join Swiss on 16th to Everest top, but Berg and Fischer needed BC rest first. Fischer especially disappointed at losing chance for Everest summit. Berg also sorry but have taken some consolation from reports that weather not good after 15th or so.


expid: LHOT91302
peakid: LHOT
year: 1991
route1: W Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Juan Fernando Azcona
sponsor: Gipuzkopako Lhotse-Pumori Expedition
bcdate: 1991-08-27
smtdate: 1991-10-04
termdate: 1991-10-07
termnote: Abandoned at 7650m due to members feeling ill
othersmts: Climbed Pumori (PUMO-913-09)
campsites: BC(27/08),C1(02/09,6000m),C2(06/09,6500m),C3(23/09,7300m),xxx(04/10,7650m)
accidents: Zulaika cerebral edema; nothing else
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  Arrieta, Azcona, Lasarte and Ulazia intended to scale Lhotse and arrived at that BC 27th Aug, established C1 2 Sept at 6000m; C2 6th Sept at 6500m by 4 members. 15th Sept down to BC and 16th Sept to Pumori directly to C1 (French reported 15th good conditions on Pumori despite accident later in the day). 

  Goni and Zulaika arrived Lhotse BC 4th Sept, but Zulaika got sick and both down to Pheriche. They returned to BC 17th for Pumori and tried for its summit 24th Sept and reached 100m from top, snow very deep, they were tired, moving slowly, cold in clouds. 

  Meanwhile successful Pumori men returned to Lhotse BC 20th Sept and made C3 23rd Sept at 7300m and down to BC because of wind. 

  Try for summit: left BC 28th Sept and 30th Sept up to C3 but too much wind to move up from C3 on 1st Oct as planned so down to C2. 3rd Oct again to C3 and 4th reached yellow band at 7650m: now only Arrieta and Azcona and Azcona now feeling unwell (no food) and climb finished for all except Arrieta who stayed at BC with Spanish Everest. Tried for summit on 10th Oct but did not get above C2 because of wind and he too gave up. 5 members left BC 7th Oct.


expid: LOBE55301
peakid: LOBE
year: 1955
route1: SE Face (to E Smt)
nation: USA
leaders: Fred Beckey
smtdate: 1955-10-30
termnote: Reached only East Smt of Lobuje East
othersmts: Attempted Kantega (KTEG-553-01); climbed Langcha (1st ascent)
campsites: E-Smt(30/10,6080m)
routememo:
  Team reached only the eastern summit of Lobuche East. They were stopped late in the day by a steep chasm that blocked the way to the slightly higher western summit of Lobuche East.


expid: LOBE84302
peakid: LOBE
year: 1984
route1: E Ridge up; SW Ridge down
route2: SW Ridge up; E Ridge down
nation: USA
leaders: Todd Bibler
sponsor: American Cholatse Expedition
ascent1: 7th
ascent2: 7th
bcdate: 1984-10-14
smtdate: 1984-10-27
othersmts: Also climbed Cholatse (CHOL-843-01)
campsites: Smt(27/10)
primid: CHOL84301
routememo:
  Also climbed new route on Lobuche East 6119m via E Ridge.

  24 Oct to 27th Oct. From Cholatse BC climbed Lobuche East. Bibler and Freer went up E Ridge and down SW Ridge while other 2 went up and down SW Ridge.


expid: LOBE89401
peakid: LOBE
year: 1989
route1: E Face
nation: UK
leaders: David Etherington
countries: W Germany
smtdate: 1989-12-18
smttime: 1600
othersmts: Climbed (TAWO-894-01) and Pokalde
primid: TAWO89401
routememo:
  Lobuche East climbed by Etherington and Schneider. Left BC 16th Dec; one night in Lobuche village; 17th to base of E Face couloir; 18th climbed from biv at 5200m up couloir and reached top of mountain at 4:00 pm and to biv at 5300m on normal route; 19th back in BC. 

  22nd other two left BC to try Lobuche East and got to 5200m; 23rd to bottom of couloir 5400m where exhausted and back down.

  Pokalde climbed by Etherington; left BC 22nd at 5:15 am and reached 11:00 am via normal on north ridge and down to Namche where joined Schneider; other 2 arrived 24th Dec in time for Xmas.


expid: LSHR55101
peakid: LSHR
year: 1955
route1: SE side (reconnaissance)
nation: USA
leaders: Norman Dyhrenfurth
sponsor: International Himalayan Expedition 1955
countries: Austria, Switzerland
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (IMJA-553-01) and Palung Ri (PLNG-552-01); attempted Lhotse (LHOT-553-01)
primid: LHOT55301
routememo:
  Expedition made no attempt to climb the mountain, according to Dhyrenfurth in the "America Alpine Journal," 1956, pg 8. 

  Quote: "I look at the southern defenses of the east ridge convinced both of us (Dyrenfurth and Senn) that any attempt to establish a series of camps and to lead heavily-laden Sherpas through their would be suicidal. While you were studying about huge wall of steep ice, several avalanches broke off from high shell burying the only possible avenue of approach under masses of blue green ice. Even if one could reach the ridge, the route would be extremely long and exposed to the winds. The upper most part of the east ridge is very steep and undoubtedly heavily corniced, and the main summit of Lhotse could not be possibly reach that way."


expid: LSHR60301
peakid: LSHR
year: 1960
route1: SE Ridge (recon)
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Edmund Hillary
sponsor: Himalayan Scientific and Mountaineering Expedition
approach: Chhukung Valley
campsites: xxx(Nov,6700m)
primid: MAKA61101
othersmts:
  Climbed Ombigaichen (OMBG-603-01) and Island Peak (IMJA-603-01); climbed Ama Dablam (AMAD-611-01); attempted Makalu (MAKA-611-01)


expid: LSIS73301
peakid: LSIS
year: 1973
route1: Reconnaissance
nation: Japan
leaders: Mitsuyoshi Oshitani
sponsor: Seto Suinan Alpine Club
smtdate: 1973-10-19
termnote: Abandoned at 4700m due to avalanche (recon expedition)
campsites: xxx(19/10,4500-5000m)
routememo:
  Letter from Ikeda - in 1982

  Three members were killed in Langshisa Ri in 1973 were, Mitsuyoshi Oshitani (30), leader of the reconnaissance party of Seto Suinan Sangakukai club party (5 men), deputy leader Manabu Kato (22) and Shiniichi Suzuki (25). They were assaulted by an avalanche on Langtang Ri on Oct 19, 1973. The body of Kato only was found, but two others were missed in the snow avalanche. The club cancelled the planned expedition in 1974 as a result of this accident.

  JAC thinks that expedition may have been hit by an avalanche. Expedition was from Aichi prefecture local mountaineering club.


expid: MAK254101
peakid: MAK2
year: 1954
route1: N Face
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Edmund Hillary
sponsor: New Zealand Alpine Club Barun Valley Expedition
countries: UK
smtdate: 1954-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m after Hillary strickened by AMS
campsites: BC(Apr,4875m),C1(09/05,5180m),C2(10/05,5790m),C3(11/05,6340m),C4(14/05,6700m),xxx(15/05,7000m)
primid: BARU54101
othersmts:
  Climbed Baruntse (BARU-541-01), Pethangtse (PETH-541-01), Pethangtse East (PTHE-541-01), Chago (CHAG-541-01) and Nau Lekh (NAUL-541-01) (all 1st ascents); attempted Cho Polu (CHOP-541-01) and recon Makalu (MAKA-541-02)


expid: MAK254301
peakid: MAK2
year: 1954
route1: Makalu La-S Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jean Franco
ascent1: 1st
bcdate: 1954-09-15
smtdate: 1954-10-22
campsites: BC(15/09,4700m),C1(5300m),C2(5800m),C3(6400m),C4(7000m),C5(15/10,7410m),Smt(22/10)
primid: MAKA54301
othersmts:
  Climbed Pethangtse (PETH-543-01), Chago (CHAG-543-01) and Chomo Lonzo (1st ascent); attempted Baruntse (BARU-543-01) and Makalu (MAKA-543-01)


expid: MAK280301
peakid: MAK2
year: 1980
route1: W side of S Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Doug Scott
sponsor: British Makalu Expedition 1980
ascent1: 8th
countries: Australia, France, Switzerland
bcdate: 1980-09-16
smtdate: 1980-10-05
termdate: 1980-10-22
othersmts: Attempted Makalu (MAKA-803-01); climbed Shershon Northwest (SHNW-803-01)
primid: MAKA80301
campsites:
  BC(16/09,4800m),ABC(20/09,5400m),C1(01/10,5800m),C2(02/10,6400m),C3(03/10,6700m),C4(04/10,7400m),Smt(05/10)

routememo:
  BC for Makalu II, 20 Sept 5400m/17,700 feet
  Makalu II summit - 5 Oct via South Ridge  
    Scott, Bettembourg (ski descent), Baxter-Jones

  BC for Makalu I - 15,000 feet, about 10-12 Oct
  Highest point - 26,500 feet, 20 Oct via SE Ridge

  Baxter-Jones tried solo ascent on west side; reached 500 feet above Makalu La (which is 7400m) on NW Ridge.


  Doug Scott - 19 Oct 88
  Kangchungtse, autumn 1980

  Scott's team climbed the left side of South Ridge, a different route from the normal South Ridge route.


  Doug Scott - 1 Nov 80

  Makalu II: climbed variation French 1954 route on South Ridge from Makalu La by Scott, Baxter-Jones and Bettembourg; had BC at 17,700 feet. No fixed camps above BC, just moving camps was excellent acclimatization. At 24,000 feet was with top of Mount Blanc.

  Climbed half dozen peaks on west side of Chago Glacier.

  Bettembourg skied all way from Makalu II summit to 19,000 feet - from top to Col one day, 2 days later to 19,000 feet and moraines.


expid: MAK291301
peakid: MAK2
year: 1991
route1: S Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Jordi Bosch
sponsor: Girona Makalu Expedition 1991
ascent1: 19th,20th
bcdate: 1991-08-26
smtdate: 1991-09-15
termdate: 1991-10-02
othersmts: Climbed Makalu (MAKA-913-03)
campsites: BC(26/08,5600m),C1(01/09,6000m),C2(16/09,7200m),C3(21/09,7600m),C4B(29/09,8100m),Smt(15,30/09)
agency: Kunga
primid: MAKA91303
routememo:
  30th Sept Cardona from Makalu C4 did not go up but down to Makalu La and up ridge to summit of Kangchungtse alone; down to BC same day. 

  15th Sept Estiu from Makalu C2 to Kangchungtse summit via Makalu La to top and BC.


expid: MAKA54101
peakid: MAKA
year: 1954
route1: S Face-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: William Siri
sponsor: Californian Makalu Expedition
countries: UK
approach: Arun Valley->Barun Valley
bcdate: 1954-04-04
smtdate: 1954-06-02
termdate: 1954-06-08
termnote: Abandoned at 7150m due to approaching monsoon
campsites:
  BC(04/04,4725m),C1(19/04,5030m),C2(5485m),C3(26/04,6550m),C4(12/05,6700m),C5(01/06,7000m),xxx(02/06,7150m)


expid: MAKA54102
peakid: MAKA
year: 1954
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge (recon)
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Edmund Hillary
sponsor: New Zealand Alpine Club Barun Valley Expedition
countries: UK
smtdate: 1954-05-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m after Hillary strickened by AMS
campsites: BC(Apr,4875m),C1(09/05,5180m),C2(10/05,5790m),C3(11/05,6340m),C4(14/05,6700m),xxx(15/05,7000m)
primid: BARU54101
othersmts:
  Climbed Baruntse (BARU-541-01), Pethangtse (PETH-541-01), Pethangtse East (PTHE-541-01), Chago (CHAG-541-01) and Nau Lekh (NAUL-541-01) (all 1st ascents); attempted Cho Polu (CHOP-541-01) and Makalu II (MAK2-541-01)

routememo:
  The source of this information is New Zealand Alpine Journal as quoted by George Lowe (pg 60-61) in East of Everest written by Edmund Hillary and George Lowe.


expid: MAKA54301
peakid: MAKA
year: 1954
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jean Franco
approach: Arun Valley->Barun Valley
bcdate: 1954-09-15
smtdate: 1954-10-30
termnote: Bad weather
campsites: BC(15/09,4700m),C1(5300m),C2(5800m),C3(6400m),C4(7000m),C5(15/10,7410m),xxx(30/10,7800m)
accidents: LO died of illness
othersmts:
  Climbed Makalu II (MAK2-543-01), Pethangtse (PETH-543-01), Chago (CHAG-543-01) and Chomo Lonzo (1st ascent); attempted Baruntse (BARU-543-01)


expid: MAKA55101
peakid: MAKA
year: 1955
route1: Makalu La-NW Face
nation: France
leaders: Jean Franco
ascent1: 1st-3rd
approach: Arun Valley->Barun Valley
bcdate: 1955-04-04
smtdate: 1955-05-15
othersmts: Climbed Pethangtse (PETH-551-01)
campsites:
  BC(04/04,4700m),C1(5300m),C2.ABC(5800m),C3(07/05,6400m),C4(08/05,7000m),C5(09/05,7410m),C6(14/05,7800m),Smt(15-17/05)


expid: MAKA61101
peakid: MAKA
year: 1961
route1: Makalu La-N Face
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Edmund Hillary
sponsor: Himalayan Scientific and Mountaineering Expedition
countries: UK, USA
bcdate: 1961-04-17
smtdate: 1961-05-18
termnote: Abandoned at 8350m due to alititude sickness
othersmts:
  Climbed Ombigaichen (OMBG-603-01) and Island Peak (IMJA-603-01), recon Lhotse Shar (LSHR-603-01) and Shartse (SHAR-603-01); climbed Ama Dablam (AMAD-611-01)

campsites:
  BC.C1(17/04,5180m),C2(5940m),C3(6475m),C4(01/05,7000m),C5(7450m),C6(7860m),C7(8230m),xxx(18/05,8350m)


expid: MAKA81303
peakid: MAKA
year: 1981
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott
sponsor: Messner Himalayan Expedition to Makalu
countries: UK
termnote: Had permit but did not climb
othersmts: Attempted Chamlang (CHAM-813-01) only
primid: CHAM81301
routememo:
  Attempted Chamlang only.

  Scott - 19 Oct 81

  After Reinhold left, hung around waiting to see what Austrians did and talked with LO who said only thing to do would be solo it, but snow conditions not favourable for that; walked around both side of east ridge with family; never went on Makalu at all.

  LO didn't permit MacIntyre join Scott on SE Ridge and only Sherpa (Pasang) left with Scott not up to such a climb.


  Sharma, Tourism

  Scott (Makalu) abandoned climb.

  4 Oct started from BC and reached 6200m on 5th Oct decided to give up; not clear who if anyone was with him. Leaves for KTM as soon as porters arranged.


expid: MANA53101
peakid: MANA
year: 1953
route1: N Col
nation: Japan
leaders: Yukio Mita
sponsor: Japanese Alpine Club (JAC)
bcdate: 1953-04-13
smtdate: 1953-06-01
termdate: 1953-06-08
termnote: Abandoned at 7750m due to too much distance from summit
campsites:
  BC(13/04,3850m),C1(4600m),C2,C3,C4(20/04,5600m),C5(6000m),C6(6100m),C7(6600m),C8(7100m),C9(31/05,7500m),xxx(01/06,7750m)


expid: MANA55301
peakid: MANA
year: 1955
route1: N Col (recon)
nation: Japan
leaders: Katsuro Ohara
routememo:
  Advance party to 1956 Manaslu expedition was sent to Sama village to negotiate the welcome of the 1956 attempt.


expid: MANA56101
peakid: MANA
year: 1956
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Yuko Maki
ascent1: 1st,2nd
bcdate: 1956-03-29
smtdate: 1956-05-09
smttime: 1230
termdate: 1956-05-17
achievment: Photos confirm true summit
campsites:
  BC(29/03,3850m),C1(07/04,5250m),C2(13/04,5600m),C3(23/04,6200m),C4(25/04,6550m),C5(04/05,7200m),C6(08/05,7800m),TrueSmt(09,11/05)


expid: MANA70301
peakid: MANA
year: 1970
route1: NW side (recon)
nation: Japan
sponsor: Tokyo Metropolitan Mtn. Federation
routememo:
  2-man recon party sent by forthcoming Spring 72 Japanese Manaslu expedition (names of 2-man party unknown).


expid: MANA71101
peakid: MANA
year: 1971
route1: NW Face-W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Akira Takahashi
sponsor: Tokyo Metropolitan Mtn. Federation
ascent1: 3rd
approach: Pokhara->Jagat->Karche
bcdate: 1971-03-15
smtdate: 1971-05-17
smttime: 1215
termdate: 1971-05-25
achievment: Photos confirm true summit
campsites:
  BC(15/03,3500m),C1(21/03,4500m),C2.ABC(28/03,5500m),C3(08/04,6500m),C4(06/05,7100m),C5(16/05,7360m),TrueSmt(17/05)


expid: MANA71102
peakid: MANA
year: 1971
route1: NE Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Ho-Sup
countries: Japan
approach: Trisuli->Arughat->BC
bcdate: 1971-03-11
smtdate: 1971-05-04
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to high winds and fatal fall on summit attempt
campsites: BC(22/03,4600m),C1(31/03,5300m),C2,C3(6700m),C4(17/04,7000m),C5(04/05,7600m),xxx(04/05,7600m)
accidents: Kim Ki-Sup killed in fall
routememo:
  Kim Ho-Sup - May 14, 1971

  Others arrive KTM after 4-5 days. Kim came last midnight. 

  May 4 - 2 Kim brothers and 3 Sherpas reached C5 site 7600m at 4:30 pm. Morning very good weather, but late afternoon strong wind started, strongest wind he ever knew. Sky clear but heavy snow powder blown by wind. After making camp place and pitching 1 tent. From there to summit easy snow slope. So plan next morning 2 brothers and 1 Sherpa to summit. Kim Ki-Sup took off crampon and put ice axe in snow. Very cold and high and wanted to make hot water, but strong wind blew him off his feet and he fell 30m down snow slope and into 10-15m crevasse. Inside snow crevasse many iceblocks and maybe banged head. Leader brother reached him quickly, but already dead and body left in crevasse. Next year will bring body out. Not then because Kim Ho-Sup and 3 Sherpas not strong and high altitude very bad conditions.

  Dead man told Sherpas he would reach summit or die.

  At 11:00 pm May 4 survivors returned to C4; could not stay in wind at C5.

  Kim Ki-Sup made 3 summit bids:

  1) 20th April he and 1 Sherpa at 8 pm started from C4 at 7000m and at 1:45 am turned back because very cold and deep snow where usually crampon walking possible.

  2) 1 May he started again from C3 at 6700m to stay night at C4 and on to summit. He and Kim In-Sik and 5 Sherpas turned back because camp covered snow - sky blue but heavy snow coming.

  3) On May 5 surviving brother Kim Ho-Sup wanted try for summit with one Sherpa, but C4 half-covered with snow and still strong wind, so abandoned climb.

  Kim Ho-Sup plans next year expedition to Manaslu maybe same route (already much fixed rope) if ice conditions same. Will try for summit and bring brother's body down for cremation.

  Strong wind like pistol shots. Miss Kim reached C3.


  Kim Ki-Sup - March 7, 1971

  Kim Ki-Sup, Kim In-Suk, Miss Kim Jung-Gee and Lee Jong-Gee leave KTM tomorrow as advance party with half of expedition's baggage. Will proceed to establish base and other camps.

  3 other Koreans and Yasuhisha stay in KTM awaiting arrival of other half their baggage from Dacca.


  Kim Ho-Sup - March 1, 1971

  Hope to rendezvous with Japanese Manaslu on summit. Chances poor, but would like both expeditions to have walkie-talkies with which can communicate with each other at some points on mountain.


  Kim Ki-Sup - Feb 13, 1971

  2 here now, 4 others arrive 20th Feb. Yashuhisa (photographer only) will help but not [climbing] member.

  Route via NE Face, same route as 1956 Japanese expedition. 

  Leave KTM 1 March, go to Trisuli by truck, via Arughat (same as 1970 Peak 29 route). Arrive base mid-March, return to KTM by same route. Summit attempt about mid-April. Expect 5 higher camps necessary. 

  Lhotse Shar team may not come.

  Manaslu more difficult then Churen. Last pitch very steep and peak higher. 

  Korean Churen 1970 expedition from last camp to summit took 16 hours. Is possible to reach summit from that point. Sure his expedition reached summit of Churen. Japanese who made doubting statement would not meet Kim and brother when he was in Japan. Kim ready to go to Churen summit with doubting Japanese who probably can't reach himself and [thus] thinks others can't.


expid: MANN64301
peakid: MANN
year: 1964
route1: S Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Jan Boon
sponsor: Royal Dutch Alpine Club
ascent1: 1st
countries: Austria
bcdate: 1964-10-17
smtdate: 1964-10-25
smttime: 1200
othersmts: Intended to climb Nemjung (NEMJ-643-01)
campsites: BC(17/10,4250m),C1(19/10,5200m),C2(20/10),C3(22/10,6000m),C4(23/10,6400m),Smt(25/10)
routememo:
  Manaslu North I  

  Route South Ridge   

  Ascent - Huber Schriebl
           Jan de Lint
           Fons Driessen
           Nima Tenzing Sherpa
           Ila Tsering Sherpa

  Letter from Jan Boon - Nov 6, 1974

  Himlung is from the Nepal side not possible to climb. Avalanches at day and night time. To cross the Tibetan border, from where a route could done, is of course out of question. This the reason why we change from the Himlung to the Manaslu massiv. In 5 days we fix this. On Oct the 17th we arrive in the new basecamp.


  Letter from Jan Boon - Oct 30, 1964

  As you remember, I wrote you, the Himlung is from the Nepal side not possible to climb. Avalanches at day and night time. To cross the Tibetan border, from where a route is could done, is of course out of question. This is the reason, why we change from the Himlung to the Manaslu massiv. In 5 days we fix this. On Oct the 17th we arrive in the new base camp. Height 4250m. The 19th of Oct Camp I settled, 20th Camp II, 22th Oct Camp 3, 6000 meters, and C4 is a icefall from about 3000 ft. On the 25th Oct. Hubert Schriebl (Austria) which did the wonderful mean work, at midday reached the summit of the Manaslu with the two Sherpas Nima Tenzing and Jila Tsering, with the two Dutch members Jan de Lint and Fons Driessen.

  (Name of the summit Manaslu North Peak, about 23,100 ft or higher). I self was 500 ft under the summit, only a hour later as Schriebl, as a storm came, with a very cold temperature. I was all the time filming, but on the moment as the storm starts was every thing impossible. (I think the storm was more) Schriebl, now exspect to bring me in a second climb also to the summit could it not do, otherwise the storm would smash us many thousand feet down. (The summit of the Manaslu North Peak is very steep).

  Sherpas (taken from "Himalaya Hemel en Hel"):
    Ang Tsering (sirdar)
    Nima Tenzing
    Ila Tsering
    Tenzing Gyaltso
    Nawang Dorje
    Nima Dorje


  John Boyle - 4 April 2010

  John Boyle states that the claimed Dutch ascent of Manaslu North was disproved by Anders Bolinder [unclear whether higher 6994m peak is referred to or the lower 6991m subpeak].


expid: MANN92301
peakid: MANN
year: 1992
route1: S Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Michael Galbraith
sponsor: Canadian Manaslu Expedition
ascent1: 3rd
bcdate: 1992-09-09
smtdate: 1992-10-01
smttime: 1130
termdate: 1992-10-03
othersmts: Attempted Manaslu (MANA-923-02)
campsites: BC(09/09,4750m),C1(12/09,5600m),C2(18/09,6100m),C3(22/09,6500m),C4(30/09,7500m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Nepal Himal
primid: MANA92302
routememo:
  BC next to South Koreans
  C1 slightly higher than Naike Col, up a bit of steep rock
  C3 just before North Col.

  Manaslu North Peak: fairly steep snow, knife-edge ridge, heavily corniced on east side. Left C3 8:30 am, on top at about 11:30 am and back at Polish-Italian C3 at 1 pm, own C3 at 1:30 and C2 to sleep and to help 2 Nepalis descend to C2 from between C4 and C3.


expid: MERA85101
peakid: MERA
year: 1985
route1: W Face-Mera Peak W Smt
nation: Japan
leaders: Kunihiko Kondo
ascent1: 1st?
bcdate: 1985-03-10
smtdate: 1985-03-17
smttime: 1200
termnote: Climbed W Summit (6255m)
campsites: BC/10/03,4400m),ABC(11/03,4600m),W-Smt(17/03,6255m)
routememo:
  West Face of Mera Peak West: First ascent
  by Kunihiko Kondo

  The author got a rare inquiry to guide a woman to any 6000er where Makalu can be seen in the spring last year. He, at first did not take it as a serious request. Ms Michiko Kiyota, however, appeared to join his climbing in the spring through winter, and the author knew she would be competent to climb 6000ers, not walking up in Nepal.

  The author happened to see a picture of a travel agency and found an unclimbed rock face on the West Face of Mera Peak W. It looked a little bit too tough for the guided climbing, but he expected a gentler route might be in the face. The equipment was limited, including 25 rock pitons, 5 ice pitons, 3 friends, three sets of ropes and fixed day foods and a tent; 100 kg of weight, but he determined to ferry all by himself. It was a hasty tour only with 28 days to door to door.

  They were accompanied by 6 porters and Sherpa and a kitchen boy to arrive at Tangnag Kharka on March. He found a possible line through a couloir that runs up from the center toward left on the West Face. He made ABC (4600m) under the rock face next day. Climbing started on the 11th. He employed alpine style. Technically not so hard, but high winds never ceased whole day. Because he had to repeat up and down of a pitch for 3-4 times to ferry loads and clean the route, the climbing became quite a laborious one. The second night was on a terrace, and the third night was on a ledge where 1/3 of the tent was in the air. On the 14th, a big slab appeared and the progress slowed down. Next day the route was on the blue ice and the sixth night was beneath the ice ridge. The top was reached shortly before the noon of the 17th. His client could see not only Makalu, but Everest and Lhotse. They spent another night on the last biv terrace and continued abseiling for two days, returned to the BC on the 19th.


expid: MANN79301
peakid: MANN
year: 1979
route1: N Ridge-N Smt from E
nation: Czechoslovakia
leaders: Vladimir Kripicka
approach: Trisuli Bazar->Buri Gandaki->Samagaon->Larkya (BC)
bcdate: 1979-09-18
smtdate: 1979-10-16
smttime: 1215
termdate: 1979-10-23
campsites:
  BC(18/09,4230m),C1(22/09,4690m),C2(28/09,5250m),C3(01/10,5700m),C4(10/10,6020m),C5(14/10,6410m),N-Smt(16,18/10)

routememo:
  The report about activity of Czechoslovak expedition Manaslu North II -79

  The camion truck Skoda 100.05 with all members of expedition crossed the Nepal-India boundary in Birgunj on 25.8.79 and the 31.8.79 came in to the capital of Nepal kingdom, KTM.

  On the 4.9.79 we transported by our truck into Trisuli Bazar. The caravan of 75 altitude porters, 10 members of expedition, one 1 officer, one sirdar, one high altitude porter, cook and kitchen boy left the 5.9.79 Trisuli and passed through Arughat, Jagat, Namrum, Sama, Samdo in the base camp which was built on the left side of Larkya Glacier on the 18.9.79 in altitude 4230m.

  On the 22.9.79 was built the C2 in the left side of Larkya Glacier in 4690m. We find by reconnaissance that direct way through the glacier falling from the saddle under North Ridge of Manaslu North II is not possible. For this reason we went by the rocky ridge of the right side of glacier. Under rocky saddle ont he beginning of glacier was built the C2 on the 29.9.79 in 5190m.

  The C3 was built the 1.10.79 on the North Ridge of Manaslu North II in 5690m. The way to the C3 let through icefall to the expansive saddle in the North Ridge and then on this ridge towards summit. The 2/3 of distance from C2 to C3. Camp was secured by fixed ropes.

  From the C3 we went at first on the sharp ridge which comes after about 300m into ice wall with 70 degree inclination ended by vertical ice step. C4 was built on the 9.10.79 in 6020m. All distance among C3 to C4 was secured by fixed ropes.

  Bad weather conditions, the daily snowfall, strong wind, bad visibility during establishment of camps were reasons of great retardation. Therefore the leader of expedition gave the following decision: 

  From the C4 towards summit we will go with classique climbing methods, without fixed ropes. Two mountaineers Jan Cervinka and Otakar Srovnal went the 15.10.79 from the C4 with the equipment for the C5. The way passed on the flat ridge in the deep snow among big seracs into the 6200m. From this altitude they had to go only in the right side not long from the edge of ridge where inclination of slopes was around 70 degrees to vertical. In this part of way they went very slowly because they had to make steps into ice wall.

  On the place of the C5 they came about on 4 pm in the 6420m. The following day, 16.10.79 at 8 am both men went towards summit. The first part of the way let in ice and firm conditions about 45-degree inclinations after 300m overcame into the wide snowed firm ridge. After common advance stood both men Jan Cervinka and Ing Otakar Srovnal at 12:15 in the summit of Manaslu North II in the altitude 7157m. After hoist of Nepal and Czechoslovak flags and making photographic documentation began both men at 13:30 in strong wind descended and at 17:00 came in the C5. On the 17.10.79 they descended in to the C2.

  The second group of climbers, leader of expedition Vladimir Krupicka and Miroslav Novotny MD, slept on the 17.10.79 in the C5 and the following day 18.10.79 at 16:15 came on the summit in very bad weather conditions.

  Because weather changed, much cooled, the attempt going on the summit was stopped.

  We began the liquidation of camps and on the 22.10.79 were all members of expedition in the base camp. On the 23.10.79 with the 30 low-altitude porters started the caravan towards KTM which we reached on the 6.11.79.


  Dr. Novotny - 6 Nov 79

  Climbed 2nd Manaslu North which is 70m higher than the Dutch Manaslu North.
  Route was North Ridge of Manaslu North.

  Difficult to reach Czech North Saddle - tried 2-3 days. Must return because of great icefall. Went east, very long but not dangerous way during rocks.

  Novotny has frostbitten little fingers. He was very tired during descent and needed oxygen. Others Ok. All returned to KTM today.


  Krupicka - 1 Sept 79

  All now in KTM; leave KTM 3 Sept to Trisuli by truck.
  70 porters on trail up Buri Gandaki to Samagaon to BC in 10-14 days from Trisuli. 
  BC 4000m
  Manaslu North has 2 peaks according to Bolinder; higher which Dutch climbed in 1964 from south  - Manaslu North I 7080m
  - Manaslu North II 7050m

  Manaslu I is south of II and both are directly north of main peak.
  Dutch went to Col north of main peak and then South Ridge.
  Czechs have permission for East Face of Manaslu North - new route.


expid: NAMP70301
peakid: NAMP
year: 1970
route1: S Face-W Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: John Allen
sponsor: Manchester-Nepalese Expedition 1970
approach: Pithoragarh->Jhulagat->Chamila Khola
bcdate: 1970-09-28
smtdate: 1970-10-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6250m due to Beighton's AMS and subsequent bad weather
campsites:
  BC(28/09,3870m),C1(05/10,5100m),C2(11/10,5400m),C3(18/10,5550m),C4(20/10,5850m),C5(21/10,6250m),xxx(6250m)


expid: OHMI49101
peakid: OHMI
year: 1949
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Alfred Sutter
bcdate: 1949-05-19
smtdate: 1949-06-27
termdate: 1949-07-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to steepness of route and exposed ridges
routememo: The Swiss named this peak Nupchu, but it is now believed that they actually attempted Ohmi Kangri.
primid: PYRM49101
othersmts:
  Climbed Tengkoma (TENG-491-01), Sphinx (SPHN-491-01) and Dzanye (DZAN-491-01); attempted Pyramid Peak (PYRM-491-01); recon Kangbachen (KANB-491-01) and Drohmo (DROM-491-01)

campsites:
  BC(19/05,4660m),C1(5000m),C2(5300m),C3(24/06,5500m),C4(25/06,5900m),C5(26/06,6500m),xxx(27/06,6800m)


expid: NEPA30101
peakid: NEPA
year: 1930
route1: S Ridge from W
nation: Germany
leaders: G. O. Dyhrenfurth
ascent1: 1st?
countries: Austria
bcdate: 1930-04-26
smtdate: 1930-05-24
termnote: Schneider may have only gone to the SW Peak (7130m)
campsites: BC(26/04,5050m),C1(22/05,5450m),C2(23/05,6120m),Smt(24/05)
routememo: Erwin Schneider may have gone only to the SW Peak (7130m)
primid: KANG30101
othersmts:
  Climbed Jongsang (JONG-301-01), Domo (DOMO-301-01) and Ramtang (RAMT-301-01); recon Kangbachen (KANB-301-01); attempted Kangchenjunga (KANG-301-01)


expid: NEPA39101
peakid: NEPA
year: 1939
route1: S Ridge from E
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Ernst Grob
ascent1: 3rd
countries: Germany
approach: Sikkim->Zemu Glacier
bcdate: 1939-05-07
smtdate: 1939-05-27
campsites: BC(07/05),C2(6000m),C3(24/05,6350m),C4(25/05,6600m),C5(26/05,7000m),Smt(27/05)
othersmts:
  Climbed Kirat Chuli (KIRA-391-01) and Langpo South (LNPS-392-01); attempted Gimmigela Chuli (GIMM-392-01) and Pyramid Peak (PYRM-392-01)


expid: NGO265101
peakid: NGO2
year: 1965
route1: S Face-S Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Susumu Takahashi
sponsor: Nepal Himalayan Academic Expedition of Meiji University
ascent1: 1st
approach: Namche->Gokyo
bcdate: 1965-03-22
smtdate: 1965-04-24
smttime: 1704
termdate: 1965-04-28
campsites: BC(22/03,5000m),C1(04/04,5700m),C2(10/04,6000m),C3(18/04,6500m),C4(22/04,6900m),Smt(24/04)
achievment: Originally claimed ascent of Ngojumba Kang, but later realized they had climbed Ngojumba Kang II
routememo:
  Uemura - 30 May 65

  From C4 (highest) to summit hardest part of climb: crevasse halfway (at 7400m) to summit. Crevasse about 10m with another crevasse inside it (10m deep traversing face of mountain). Had go down inside and climb up other side; then 60m high icefall needing 30m ropes and 10 pitons and when came back from top surprised how difficult to reach C4. Night came and had to stay in crevasse all night at summit 5 pm; reached crevasse 7:30 pm. Next day C4 9 am (started 5:30 am at crevasse and after 1 hour meet support party below crevasse).


  Kobayashi - 28 May 65

  Rest of Meiji expedition will probably arrive KTM 30th.

  Uemura and Pemba Tenzing Sherpa on April 23 on summit. Most difficult from base 5000m to C1 5500m and most dangerous; icewall 50m height with loose blocks. Accident March 29 to Masaru Irisawa; knocked unconscious by huge falling ice block slab on head and brought down to base; left side paralyzed one month with gradual recovery. Doctor stayed with him at base. Now all right, but did no more climbing; now walking back to Kathmandu all right.

  April 7 accident to Sherpa involved no members; again ice block fell between C1 and C2.

  Took 2 weeks establish C1 because of accident. Icewall again between C2 and C3; really icewalls all way from base to C3 (altitude 6400-6500m).


  From Varma - 29 April 65 (message from Doctor)

  Attempt to C3 recon party 3 Sherpas: snow and small avalanche in which 1 Sherpa fell and injured his back. Sherpa brought here day before yesterday from Jiri by Swiss; accident apparently occurred April 7th. C4 will be last camp: hoped reach summit by 25th.


  29 April 65

  Dorchi Sherpa (28) collarbone fractured and backbone slightly injured; caught in avalanche on April 7th. Took 9 days to reach Jiri from base. Expedition hoped reach summit 25th. All Ok otherwise.

  At Shanta Bhavan convalescent ward now where Mahesh Banskota saw him.

  Ngojumba Kang II 1st ascent on 24 April: Naomi Uemura, Pemba Tenzing Sherpa.


expid: NGOJ83301
peakid: NGOJ
year: 1983
route1: SE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Kazumi Shigeto
sponsor: Fukuoka Tozan Kenkyukai Cho Oyu Expedition 1983
bcdate: 1983-09-18
smtdate: 1983-10-17
termdate: 1983-10-19
termnote: Abandoned at 7730m due to wind, deep snow and lack of equipment
othersmts: Had permit for Cho Oyu (CHOY-833-02), but stopped on Ngojumba Kang
campsites: BC(18/09,5100m),ABC(21/09,5800m),C1(25/09,6100m),C2(02/10,6800m),C3(10/10,7300m),xxx(17/10,7730m)
routememo:
  BC as planned southeast of large lake (lake is just south of point 5400m on 
     Schneider map).

  Abandoned because
    1) no equipment ice screws and pitons, 
    2) strong wind, 
    3) deep snow,
    4) already 4:30 pm at high point so no time on 17th. 

  Climbed in deep snow - skis would have been very useful.

  Route went east of Langsampa point 6515m and up glacier towards point 7806m which is Ngojumba Kang.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 21 Oct 83

  Cho Oyu - Japan-Nepal

  C3 15 Oct 7300m on Ngojumba Kang 16 Oct 
    Ang Rinzin Sherpa (member)
    Tatsuhisa Mitoma 
    Mamoru Kituchi 
  reached 7730m and because high wind and snowfall abandoned whole expedition and returned to BC (date not given).

  19 Oct to leave BC.


expid: NGOJ86301
peakid: NGOJ
year: 1986
route1: S Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Nobuo Shiraishi
sponsor: Kitakyusu Cho Oyu Expedition 1986
smtdate: 1986-09-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to deep snow
othersmts: Climbed Cho Oyo (CHOY-863-02)
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3(29/09,7500m),xxx
agency: Above the Clouds
primid: CHOY86302
routememo:
  Attempted E Ridge of Cho Oyu from Ngojumba Kang in September. Transferred to NW Ridge of Cho Oyu (normal route) in October.

  After it became clear team could not succeed via E Ridge, Liaison officer left BC 2 Oct to request permit for NW side (went to Namche to send radio request). No permit granted but Shiraishi and Hino left BC 5th Oct to make 2-man alpine-style climb from west. Moved up to 7200m in 4 days then stopped by bad weather for 2 days before going to summit. Found climb for most of route not technically difficult but were hampered by snow above ankles. Reached top at 14:20 hrs, returned to 7200m at 17:55 hrs. 17th Oct bivouacked at 6750m, 18th at 5800m near Nangpa La, 19th at 5600m and 20th arrived at BC.


expid: NILN62301
peakid: NILN
year: 1962
route1: N Face-W Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: C. G. Egeler
ascent1: 1st
countries: France
bcdate: 1962-10-06
smtdate: 1962-10-19
campsites: BC(06/10,4000m),C1(07/10,5350m),C2(10/10,5850m),C3(18/10,6420m),Smt(19/10)
routememo:
  C. G. Egeler, Dutch Expedition

  1st Dutch expedition to Himalayas: purpose to (1) geologist research, 5 geologists of university of Amsterdam on co-operative structure with Alpine structures of Europe and to study strategraphy and age and tectanic place of huge granite intrusions; 2) mountain climbers, 2 geologist who also climb. Led by Lionel Terray, French expert who arrives Kathmandu 22 Sept and leaves for Pokhara 24 Sept and from there 26 Sept.

  Main group arrives 14 Sept - to Pokhara 16 Sept.
  Will stay together at least to Tukuche and Muktinath. 4 climbers then will survey best way to climb and topographer will work on top map and 2 go parties of 2 mean each off on work.

  Nilgiri North 7031 meters directly north of Annapurna massif. Chosen the very difficult mountain, never attempted before. Chosen also from geologist point of view and Terray knows area (was with Hertzog Annapurna in 1950). Will have 2 base camps: 1st Tukuche and 1 for mountaineering but where don't know at all until investigate area, probably from north.

  10 Sherpas altogether during climbing.
  Aim to reach summit 1st of Nov or towards end of Oct. Mountain climbers will leave towards end of Nov. Geologist stay still end of Dec.

  Scientific part financed by Dutch govt. pure research organizaton. Climbing part financed by Royal Geography Society, Royal Netherland Alpines Club, etc plus Phillips (radio apparatus and medicines) and other firms and all members.

  Deputy leader and Egeler and Terray did much prelims climbing and scientific work in border. Started working towards Nepal goal in 1950.

  Prof. Dr C. G. Egeler - physics, geology, University of Amsterdam 
  Dr. T. De Booij - staff geological institute of University of Amsterdam
  2 physicians will do some physiological work on dehydration at higher altitude; 1 is climber, 1 just expedition doctor.

  Expedition has 10 members:
  5 geologists
  4 pure mountain climbers
  1 doctor

  Nilgiri massif has 4 peaks
  1. north - 7031 meters
  2. central 
  3. south - 6837 meters
  4. southeast


  Letter from Egeler - Oct 15 (C1 5400m)

  The progress of one expedition on Nilgiri is favourable. Camp I is established on ridge at an altitude of 5400m. C2 is established. On Friday a beginning was made with the long and difficult traverse through the ice face from C2 to the western ridge. I had hoped that this would be completed on Sunday, Camp 3 being established high on the Western Ridge. On Friday the assault party don't however not quite reach the ridge. I am hoping that today they will have better luck. The assault party consists of Terray and the 3 brothers V Lookeren Campagne is handicapped by a high altitude throat, whereas they self are occupied with the moving of equipment and food up to the high camp. If all would go as I expect the north summit of Nilgiri would be reached within 4 or 5 day. I intend to have a "follow on" for those members that cannot parties - in the first assault if weather permits.


  Letter from Egeler - 9 October 1962

  This is to inform you that things are on the move. Lionel Terray reached our general base at Siang last Thursday. Friday was used for a regrouping or our materials and provisions. On Saturday the members of the climbing party left the valley and established advanced basae on the northern flank of Nilgiri, at an altitude of 4150m. The party includes Terray, the three brothers Van Lookeren Campagne, De Booy and myself, while Dr Tammes has also come up, intending to stay at advanced base. Yesterday Sunday, all the members have advanced to a point at approximately 5400m in the northern flank of the mountain, where C1 will be established. They camped up there, and are now busy making a comfortable place on what one might call a promontoire" of the North Face, from which the actual attack will be launched. Today our 5 Sherpa's have moved up with loads, like yesterday. They will come back tonight and tomorrow will go up once more. Personally I hope to join the others tomorrow in the attack camp. It should be noted that the jump from 4150m to 5400m should not be underestimated, the more so as we are all - with the exception of Terray - not yet fully acclimatized. I was at 5000m yesterday, but suffered considerably it must be old age.

  Our plan is to proceed from our eagle nest, somewhere in the central part of the face, by means of a traverse, onto the western ridge. Here another camp will be established. In my opinion this traverse constitutes the most difficult part of the climb and especially the very steep part directly below the ridge promises to be particularly nasty. When once on the ridge the going should be fairly good, though the distance to the summit is long and may necessitate a further camp.


  Charles Dufour (by email) - 29 June 2006

  I am able to inform you there were three brothers Van Lookeren Campagne, all three reached the summit of Nilgiri (North).

  Paul = P.C. Van Lookeren Campagne
  Peter = P.F.J. Van Lookeren Campagne
  Holger = H.C. Van Lookeren Campagne


expid: NUPT61101
peakid: NUPT
year: 1961
route1: Central Ridge of S Face
nation: UK
leaders: Joseph Walmsley
ascent1: 1st,2nd
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1961-04-11
smtdate: 1961-05-16
smttime: 1615
termdate: 1961-05-24
campsites:
  BC(11/04,5180m),C1(13/04,5485m),C2(14/04,5800m),C3(15/04,6035m),C4A,C4B,C4(28/04,6300m),C5(06/05,6580m),C6(11/05,6860m),C7(13/05,7160m),C8(15/05,7250m),Smt(16-17/05)


expid: NUPT82302
peakid: NUPT
year: 1982
route1: W Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Malcolm Duff
sponsor: Scottish Himalayan Expedition
bcdate: 1982-09-27
smtdate: 1982-10-08
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to difficult route with dangerous cornices
othersmts: Attempted Thamserku (THAM-823-01)
campsites: BC(27/09,5100m),Biv1,Biv2,xxx(08/10,6700m)
primid: THAM82301
routememo:
  Nuptse West Ridge
  BC - 27 Sept, about 5180m
  Bivs reached 22,000 feet on 8 Oct.

  Duff & Allan - 13 Oct 82

  Hind walking out, arrives KTM about 16 Oct; wasn't well and didn't climb at all.

  Nuptse:

  BC established 27 Sept at about 17,000 feet (same as last year). Did exactly same as last year: same route with bivs only starting 4 Oct, got same point and down to BC on 8 Oct. Lot more and thus more dangerous cornices members could do it successfully but 6-7 km of very technical climbing on a ridge without safe points. Very slow progress on this long route. Psychologically destroying souls actually. No accidents.

  Duff doesn't plan another try on this at least for few years.


  Duff - 23 Aug 82

  Nuptse BC about 20 Sept in same place as 1981 at 17,250 feet
  Same route exactly as for as we got and then onward and upward = West Ridge. 
  Snowholes on the way up. 10-12 days to top, 8 days of this to NW Summit.
  No Sherpas above BC; no oxygen at all.

  Scottish Himalayan Expedition
  Duff at Blue Diamond 17 Oct (meets trekking group there).

  Reason for no success last year were:
    1) misjudged speed with which descent was actually possible
    2) didn't carry up enough food supplies
  Bad weather was not the reason.


expid: OMBK63301
peakid: OMBK
year: 1963
nation: Japan
leaders: Kenji Ishihara
sponsor: Tokyo-Osaka University Joint Himalayan Expedition
ascent1: 1st of 2 peaks
approach: Ghunsa->Walungchung Ghola->Umbak Himal
campsites: Smt(Dec)
primid: SPH163301
othersmts:
  Climbed Sharphu (SPH1-633-01), Tsisima (TSIS-633-01) and Syamdo Kangri (1st); attempted Drohmo (DROM-633-01), Talung (TLNG-633-01) and Merra (MERR-633-01)


expid: PALD49201
peakid: PALD
year: 1949
route1: E Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: H. W. Tilman
ascent1: 1st
smttime: 0930
termnote: Success claimed (few details available)
othersmts: Recon Ganesh I (GAN1-492-01) and Langtang Lirung (LANG-492-01); attempted Ganchempo (GANC-492-01)
campsites: C1(5180m),Smt
routememo:
  Ian Howell and John Cleare

  Found that Tilman really didn't climb Paldor by his account, but some unknown peak nearby.

  Howell and Cleare climbed Paldor in early Nov 74 by SE Ridge. Found that Tilman's E Ridge didn't exist at top. They rapelled down E Face to E Ridge.


expid: PALD74301
peakid: PALD
year: 1974
route1: SE Ridge up; E Face-E Ridge down
nation: UK
leaders: John Cleare, Ian Howell
ascent1: 1st claimed
termnote: Success claimed (few details available)
campsites: Smt(early Nov)
routememo:
  Ian Howell & John Cleare

  Found that Tilman really didn't climb Paldor by his account, but some unknown peak nearby.

  Howell and Cleare climbed Paldor in early Nov 1974 by SE Ridge. Found that Tilman's E Ridge didn't exist at top. They rapelled down E Face to E Ridge.


expid: RIPI52101
peakid: RIPI
year: 1952
route1: N Face
nation: UK
leaders: Eric Shipton
sponsor: British Expedition to Cho Oyu
ascent1: 1st
approach: From Menlung La
bcdate: 1952-05-28
smtdate: 1952-05-29
smttime: 1100
termdate: 1952-05-30
campsites: BC.C1(28/05,6000m),Smt(29/05)
primid: CHOY52101
othersmts:
  Climbed Palung (PLNG-521-01); attempted Cho Oyu (CHOY-521-01), Parchamo (PARC-521-01); recon Changtse (CTSE-521-01)

routememo:
  Upon reviewing map provided by Dennis P. Davis, it appears that this expedition and the 1955 Gregory expedition climbed an unnamed peak of 6705m south of Menlung La, not the true Pangbuk Ri which is much further north of Menlung La and Kangkuru (6320m).


  Letter from Ray Colledge to Salisbury - Mar 1, 2004

  I agree with your assessment absolutely. We certainly did not climb Pangbuk Ri north of Kangkuru. 

  The fact that "our" peak is now nameless does not bother me. It remains in my memory and photographs as an excellent climb, especially after the failure on Cho Oyu.

  Many thanks for the interesting maps.


  Letter from Ray Colledge to Salisbury - Feb 8, 2004

  Thank you for your letter of Feb 2. First I cannot give you any dates of birth of members. After 5 years of war I learned to judge a man by his attitude, not his age, as did my comrades.

  We retreated from Cho Oyu largely because we had lost all our ice pitons. This was May 10.

  On May 22 we moved to 20,000 feet, for physiological and oxygen tests by Dr. Griffith Pugh. These continued until May 26. Every day I completed my diary and so knew May 26 was my birthday which was now 30 years of age.

  Tom Bourdillon and I decided to have a go at Pangbuk, a name which of course as unknown to us. Left camp at 7 am, each man carrying 35 lbs including a tent. No Sherpas.

  Crossed plateau to Tibetan side and descended very steep ice slope to the glacier to start up north side of Pangbuk. At some stage I took a photo of the north face before descent to glacier.

  At 19,700 feet we found a small terrace beneath an ice cliff and there in continuous snowfall, spent the night. That was May 28.

  Now on May 29, we left tent at 6 am. Route was steeply up and diagonally left to avoid seracs, climbing frozen snow. Evidently it was cold as I recorded spending an hour watching Tom rubbing his feet to restore his circulation, and also I have a photo of this.

  Tom recovered and after some interesting climbing we summited at 11 am on May 29. The descent to our tent took only 1-1/4 hours. 

  At this time I was 30 years + 3 days. My home town was Coventry in Warwickshire.

  I cannot help regards to Tom or anyone else. Tom was killed on the Jagihorn in 1956 climbing with Dick Viney.

  We failed to record the height of Pangbuk, and I still do not know the true height.

  Regards,
  Ray Colledge


expid: PANG55101
peakid: PANG
year: 1955
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Alfred Gregory
sponsor: Merseyside Himalayan Expedition 1955
approach: From Tibetan side
smtdate: 1955-05-14
termnote: Climbed only to lower West Summit
campsites: W-Smt(14/05,6503m)
primid: RAMD55101
othersmts:
  Climbed Panaio Toupa (PANT-551-01), Parchamo (PARC-551-01), Pimu (PIMU-551-01), Ramdung (RAMD-551-01), Chekigo (CHEK-551-01), Dingjung Ri (DING-551-01), Ripimo Shar (RIPI-551-01), Dapladadangdio and Singkar; recon Gaurishankar (GAUR-551-01)

routememo:
  Upon reviewing map provided by Dennis P. Davis, it appears that the 1952 Shipton expedition and this expedition on May 18 climbed an unnamed peak of 6705m south of Menlung La, not the true Pangbuk Ri which is much further north of Menlung La and Kangkuru (6320m).

  4 days earlier on May 14, Boultbee and Davis climbed to the lower West Summit of the true Pangbuk Ri via the SW Ridge approaching from the Tibetan side.


  Letter to Salisbury from Dennis Davis - March 5, 2004

  To answer your questions. I am amazed that the Japanese, Schneider and Finnish maps with all their latest technology cannot agree of heights, names and locations of peaks. It makes my map almost the most accurate. The Schneider map has been used by the Nepalese without reference to other maps. Under Menlungtse is a long glacier, always known as the Menlung Glacier, very logically, not the "Drogpa Nagtsang." This leads to the Menlung La crossed by Shipton and party in 1952. They ought to know where it is, and that Pangbuk was south of that on the Tibetan/Nepalese border. I do not believe the Pangbuk Ri north of Kangkuru, which you say is added to the Nepal government's list of peaks open for mountaineering, when it has not yet been climbed!! I think that would be dangerous to say the least, and remember we climbed it from inside Tibet.

  The reason we named Kangkuru was that we had to jump an enormous crevass which would have stopped us reaching us reaching the summit had we not done so. Kang is used on many names of peaks, also Kuru is used as in Dhankuru. It seemed apt to us to name the peak after such a big jump after the Australian Kangeroo, hence Kangkuru! Silly, but true.

  There seems to be some collusion between your three maps makers as in some cases the heights are identical particularly on Schneider & Japanese maps. I just do not believe these heights were arrived at independently. 

  It would be very interesting to see the complete maps of the area to compare other details. 

  I enclose a copy of our climb on the 14th May taken from my diary. I sometimes wish I had taken the trouble to attempt a book of my visits to Nepal. A bit late now! 


  May 14th (taken from Dennis Davis diary of 1955)

  An unusually early start 6:55 am, before even the sun was up, saw us plodding crampon-shod up the snow slopes and winding our way through a maze of crevasses and seracs. At one stage we had to descend onto a doubtful snow bridge and cut our way up the other side on a quite vertical section. After this we made quite good time still hoping to cross over on the snow face before the summit. Alas after arriving at a snow shoulder our way was barred by a nearly vertical rock and ice face several hundred feet wide. We did not despair and hoped the ridge ahead of us would go. It went until we [were] at the summit of a snow peak on the ridge beyond. It started as a thin blade of frozen snow almost vertical on both sides, and continued horizontally over rock pinnacles and ice seracs. The rocks then stopped and we made many difficult traverses to avoid towers of rocks necessitating treading on very loose ground and sometimes extremely steep ice. After being thwarted by one traverese, I made up to the ridge and was then faced with a 30-foot section of rock which overhung slightly at the top, but had a weakness which might go. To avoid removing crampons, this was climbed with difficulty, but there was still more to come and after several more snow ridges and avoiding cornices, we came to more rock. This time crampons came off and at the next to final tower we were forced to traverse out again on the right. This was out of the sun and took us aross very steep ground indeed, finishing with a vertical chimney to get back onto the ridge again. Another 30 feet took us to the final tower. Dismayed and disappointed, I turned to Peter and said "We've had it." It towered some 200 feet above us, parts of which could be climbed I'm sure, but we had no pitons and would have taken at least 2 hours, and it was already 3:30 pm. (We had taken 4-1/2 hours to traverse the 400-foot long horizontal ridge and climb a mere 400 feet higher than the snow peak at the end of the ridge.) We returned forlornly, all our gains were now losses as we had to climb down all the difficulties we had recently won. Forunately it was perhaps the finest day of the expedition, little wind, and we descended to yet another glorious sunset, only wishing the hills & mountains we could see in Tibet were ascessible to us. The two Sherpas had come out from the tents to look for us, but we soon reassured them. The last rays of the sun struck higher peaks with an orange tinge and we retired into our tents at 7:30 pm. Just 12-1/2 hours since we left them.


expid: PARC52101
peakid: PARC
year: 1952
route1: N Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Eric Shipton
sponsor: British Expedition to Cho Oyu
approach: Thame->Tesi Lapcha
campsites: xxx(May,6150m)
routememo: Stopped by crevassed section just below summit.
primid: CHOY52101
othersmts:
  Climbed Ripimo Shar (RIPI-521-01) and Palung (PLNG-521-01); attempted Cho Oyu (CHOY-521-01); recon Changtse (CTSE-521-01)


expid: PARC55101
peakid: PARC
year: 1955
route1: N Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Alfred Gregory
sponsor: Merseyside Himalayan Expedition 1955
ascent1: 1st
approach: Rolwaling Valley->Tesi Laptsa
smtdate: 1955-04-18
campsites: Smt(18/04)
primid: RAMD55101
othersmts:
  Climbed Panaio Toupa (PANT-551-01), Pimu (PIMU-551-01), Ramdung (RAMD-551-01), Chekigo (CHEK-551-01), Dingjung Ri (DING-551-01), Ripimo Shar (RIPI-551-01), Dapladadangdio and Singkar; attempted Pangbuk Ri (PANG-551-01); recon Gaurishankar (GAUR-551-01)


expid: PATR53301
peakid: PATR
year: 1953
route1: Reconnaissance
nation: Austria
leaders: Herbert Tichy
primid: GHYM53301
othersmts:
  Climbed Ghyuthumba Main (GHYM-533-01), Dong Mar, Dudh Kundali (DUDH-533-01), Milchberg Peak and Thorungse Dong Mar (all 1st ascents); approached Saipal (SAIP-533-01)


expid: PATR71301
peakid: PATR
year: 1971
nation: UK
leaders: Edwin Hammond
sponsor: Anglo-Welsh Expedition
termnote: Did not attempt climb (did not like proposed route)
othersmts: Climbed unnamed peak of 5970m
routememo:
  Expedition made first and second ascents of an unnamed peak of 5970m to the south of Patrasi Himal. Hammond on Oct 27, and Cheesemond and Vincent on Oct 28. Route was by the S Ridge.


expid: PETH54101
peakid: PETH
year: 1954
route1: S Glacier
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Edmund Hillary
sponsor: New Zealand Alpine Club Barun Valley Expedition
ascent1: 1st
countries: UK
smtdate: 1954-05-26
campsites: BC(Apr),Smt(26/05)
primid: BARU54101
othersmts:
  Climbed Baruntse (BARU-541-01), Pethangtse East (PTHE-541-01), Chago (CHAG-541-01) and Nau Lekh (NAUL-541-01) (all 1st ascents); attempted Cho Polu (CHOP-541-01) and Makalu II (MAK2-541-01); recon Makalu (MAKA-541-02)


expid: PETH54301
peakid: PETH
year: 1954
route1: S side
nation: France
leaders: Jean Franco
ascent1: 2nd
bcdate: 1954-09-15
smtdate: 1954-10-10
campsites: BC(15/09,4700m),ABC(5300m),C1,C2,Smt(10/10)
primid: MAKA54301
othersmts:
  Climbed Makalu II (MAK2-543-01), Chago (CHAG-543-01) and Chomo Lonzo (1st ascent); attempted Baruntse (BARU-543-01) and Makalu (MAKA-543-01)


expid: PETH64101
peakid: PETH
year: 1964
route1: S side
nation: Japan
leaders: Hirotoshi Fukuda
sponsor: Rikkio University
ascent1: 4th (or 5th)
approach: Sherpani Col->Barun Plateau (ABC)
bcdate: 1964-04-11
smtdate: 1964-05-16
termdate: 1964-05-22
othersmts: Attempted Baruntse (BARU-641-01) and Hongku Chuli (Pyramid Peak) (HNKU-641-01)
campsites: BC(11/04,5150m),ABC(6100m),C1,Smt(16/05)
primid: BARU64101
routememo:
  4th or 5th ascent.

  Kielkowski notes 4th ascent in 1962 by Siegfried Aeberli and Hubert Schriebl, but no details are available.


expid: PIMU55101
peakid: PIMU
year: 1955
route1: S Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Alfred Gregory
sponsor: Merseyside Himalayan Expedition 1955
ascent1: 1st
approach: Rolwaling Valley->Tolam Bau Glacier
smtdate: 1955-04-20
campsites: Smt(20/04)
primid: RAMD55101
othersmts:
  Climbed Panaio Toupa (PANT-551-01), Parchamo (PARC-551-01), Ramdung (RAMD-551-01), Chekigo (CHEK-551-01), Dingjung Ri (DING-551-01), Ripimo Shar (RIPI-551-01), Dapladadangdio and Singkar; attempted Pangbuk Ri (PANG-551-01); recon Gaurishankar (GAUR-551


expid: PIMU60301
peakid: PIMU
year: 1960
nation: France
leaders: Robert Sandoz
ascent1: 2nd
bcdate: 1960-10-06
smtdate: 1960-10-30
termdate: 1960-11-01
campsites: BC(06/10),Smt(30/10)
primid: LIK260301
othersmts:
  Climbed Parchamo (PARC-603-01), Linkhu Chuli II (LIK2-603-01) and Singkar; recon Chobuje (CHOB-603-01)


expid: PISA55201
peakid: PISA
year: 1955
route1: SW Face-W Ridge?
nation: W Germany
leaders: Heinz Steinmetz
sponsor: German Nepal Expedition
ascent1: 1st
smtdate: 1955-06-10
campsites: Smt(10/06)
primid: ANN455101
othersmts:
  Climbed Annapurna IV (ANN4-551-01), Chulu East (CHUE-552-01), Kang Guru (KGUR-552-01), Dam Kang West, Kang Juri, Lamjung West and Yulo Kang (all 1st ascents); recon Lamjung (LAMJ-552-01)


expid: PISA94301
peakid: PISA
year: 1994
route1: SW Face-W Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Stefan Hasenkopf
sponsor: DAV (German Alpine Club)
countries: Switzerland
approach: Marshyangdi->Chame->Pisang
bcdate: 1994-11-11
smtdate: 1994-11-13
termnote: Fatal accident after success
campsites: BC(11/11),ABC(12/11),Smt(13/11)
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  From Kathmandu Post (Nov 1994)

  Kathmandu - In the [second] biggest disaster of mountaineering history in Nepal, 9 Germans, a Swiss national and a Nepalese mountain guide were found dead presumably due to snowslide.
     After a continuous three-day search, November 16, 17, 18, the bodies of the mountaineers were located 6091 meters below Pisang Peak in Manang district on Sunday. They are said to have successfully have reached the peak.
     According to Rotheingshofer Sigmund of the German Alpine Club which undertook the rescue mission, the members of the team should have returned to base camp in the same day, but were found missing. The people in Kathmandu received information about them on Nov 14 afternoon when someone from base camp made contact with police headquarters. The headquarters informed the local handling agent International Trekkers Pvt Ltd.
     Trekkers could not start their search immediately as Nov 15 was election day and the helicopter was not available, says Phintso [Lama] of the company.
     A helicopter with a rescue team started the search operation only on Nov 16 and was able to locate the dead bodies on Saturday.
     According to Phinsto, the next stage of retreiving the bodies is scheduled  for Monday. Four German mountaineering experts and four Sherpa guides are included in the mission.
     "The team will bring down the bodies of the mountaineers to base camp within a few days," Phintso said, adding that the corpses will be flown to Kathmandu and possibly be sent to Germany.
     The trekking-cum-expedition team, led by DAV Summit Club mountain guide Stefan Hasenkopf, included Germans Manfred Mack, 50, of Munich, engineer Karl Gluck, 48, of Florbachtal, Klaus Kaindl, 42, of Mittenwald, Bernd Reiss, 42, of Nidda, Werner Nestl, 58, of Berlin, forester Thomas Philipp, 39, of Nurenberg, pharmacist Sybille Zschetzsche, 40, of Berlin, tour guide Stefan Hasenkopf, 25, of Nussdoeff and Helmut Klopping, 47, of Seigen. The Swiss national was Christine Hammi, 33, of Basel while the Nepali Sirdar was Chayamba Sherpa, 41, of Dimber-9, Solukhumbu.
     An official of International Trekkers has said that the team DAV Lamjung/Annapurna had left for the trek on October 30 morning and was scheduled to return by flight from Jomsom on Nov 22 before this disaster took place.
     According to information provided by Trekkers, the route of the tour passes through north of Pokhara valley via Rambrong Peak and follows the trail around Annapurna and the range of the Marsyangdi river banks. The area is less frequented by normal trekkers and the trip itself has been graded as "strenuous" suitable for trekkers with fairly good climbing skills and with excellent physical conditions.


  From Spotlight (November 25, 1994) (excerpted)

     On the evening of Nov 14, International Trekkers of Kathmandu was informed by the police headquarters that the mountaineers were missing from the previous day. The company officials then contacted the concerned authorities to launch search-rescue operations as soon as possible. But they could not manage any flights for immediate help on Nov 15 as it was the polling day.
     However on Nov 16 International Trekkers dispatched a rescue team which searched for the missing mountaineers around Pisang Peak but it did not pay. After three consecutive days of search, the rescue squad was able to locate the bodies of the mountaineers which were found lying in a single heap at 5200-5300 meters of the peak.
     After the sighting of the bodies, there have been some speculations as to how the accident might have occurred.
     "The accident may have been caused by a snow-slide which may have 'swept down' all the climbers 'together'," said Phintso Lama, managing director of International Trekkers.


expid: POIN53101
peakid: POIN
year: 1953
route1: N Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: John Hunt
ascent1: 1st
approach: Tsholo La
smtdate: 1953-04-01
campsites: Smt(01/04)
routememo: Pointed Peak was climbed to test oxygen equipment
primid: EVER53101
othersmts:
  Climbed Everest (EVER-531-01), Ambu Gyabjen (AMBG-531-01), Imjatse (IMJA-531-01), Kangchung Nup (KCHN-531-01), Pokalde (POKA-531-01) and Chhukung Tse (CHUK-531-01)


expid: POKA53101
peakid: POKA
year: 1953
route1: Kongma La-N Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: John Hunt
ascent1: 1st
smtdate: 1953-04-15
campsites: Smt(15/04)
primid: EVER53101
othersmts:
  Climbed Everest (EVER-531-01), Ambu Gyabjen (AMBG-531-01), Imjatse (IMJA-531-01), Kangchung Nup (KCHN-531-01), Pointed Peak (POIN-531-01) and Chhukung Tse (CHUK-531-01)


expid: POKA73301
peakid: POKA
year: 1973
nation: Iran
ascent1: Reported
routememo:
  Planned unauthorized attempt on Everest, but Japanese expedition did not permit passage through Khumbu Icefall.

  Reported made several ascents of 7000m peaks in Everest area.


expid: OMBG60301
peakid: OMBG
year: 1960
route1: NW Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Edmund Hillary
sponsor: Himalayan Scientific and Mountaineering Expedition
ascent1: 1st,2nd
countries: UK
smtdate: 1960-11-18
campsites: BC(5800m),Smt(18,22/11)
primid: MAKA61101
othersmts:
  Climbed Island Peak (IMJA-603-01), recon Lhotse Shar (LSHR-603-01) and Shartse (SHAR-603-01); climbed Ama Dablam (AMAD-611-01), attempted Makalu (MAKA-611-01)

routememo:
  E-mail from Jim Milledge - Dec 21, 2003

  Dear Richard

  I am pleased to hear that you are working on Liz Hawley's mountaineering 
  archive for the AAC.

  Re Puma Dablam. You are quite right I made the first ascent with Sherpa 
  Ang Tsering Panch, the last name a nick-name from some previous 
  expedition meaning Ang Tsering the fifth, of course; I don't know why. You 
  are right we climbed it on Nov 18th 1960. Pat Barcham (from New Zealand, 
  now dead) and Gumi Dorgi made the second ascent a few days later. I have 
  been through my diary to try and fix the date. I see he was with me and Ed 
  Hillary on Nov 20th going gown to Changmitang (a village just N of 
  Tangboche where we rented a house). My entry for Nov 21st says nearly all 
  expedition members present (at Changmitang) and we had a group photo. I 
  assume Pat was there. He may have left later that day for the Silver Hut. 
  On the 22nd I note that "a number of men had had tummy trouble and George 
  (Lowe) was back with it. He (George) had started out with Pat to climb 
  Puma Dablam." Presumably George had turned back with his tummy trouble. I 
  presume I got this news over the radio. That seems to fix the date of Pat 
  and Gumi's climb as Nov 22nd although that seems a very fast ascent, we 
  usually took two days from Changmitang to the Silver Hut. Perhaps he 
  returned to Mingbo on the 20th and to the SH on the 21st.

  I gave the name Puma Dablam (daughter Dablam) and it appears as such in 
  Ed's book (High in the Thin Cold Air), on Barry Bishop's map in the Nat. 
  Geographic article (Oct 1963) and in a articles in the AJ and NZAJ. On 
  Bradford Washburn's map it is un-named and I wrote to him suggesting my 
  name and he replied very positively saying that in the second edition he 
  would adopted it but I don't think there has been a second edition. I 
  wonder where the name Ombigaichen comes from? I see it is now on a number 
  of new maps and, of course, on the list of trekking peaks. A pity, I think 
  Puma Dablam was a good name for it.

  I am not clear what you want in the next three questions. It was not a 
  Puma Dablam expedition. Ang Tsering and I just made a day trip from the 
  Silver Hut and climbed it taking I think about 4 hours to get up and about 
  3 hours down. This was the third attempt, the other two failed due to 
  running out of time (there were no Sherpas on the two failed attempts).

  This "Silver Hut" expedition was not quite the usual single peak 
  expedition. The full title was, "Himalayan Scientific and Mountaineering 
  Expedition 1960-61" It started post monsoon 1960 and ended pre-monsoon 
  1961, 9 months long. In the first phase most of the party went yeti 
  hunting in the Rolwaling Valley. I and three others with Sherpas went to 
  Solu Khumbu and set up various camps including the Silver Hut site at 
  5800m on the Mingbo Glacier below Puma Dablam. We had a tented base camp 
  at Mingbo(4500m) and a transit "Green Hut" at 5180m. Also the house at 
  Changmitang (4200m?). We spent the Winter at Mingbo or (mostly) in the 
  Silver Hut doing physiology on ourselves. In the Spring we went over to 
  make an attempt on Makalu.

  Home village of the two Sherpas? I think Gumi Dorgi came form Kumjung or 
  Khundi. Ang Tsering Panch did not come from either of those villages. I do 
  not remember his village but I think he was from Solu district.


expid: PYRM49101
peakid: PYRM
year: 1949
route1: NE Ridge-NE Smt
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Alfred Sutter
countries: Germany
bcdate: 1949-05-19
smtdate: 1949-06-06
termdate: 1949-07-18
termnote: Success only on secondary NE summit
campsites: BC(19/05,4660m),C1(27/05,5140m),C2(29/05,5700m),C3(30/05,6400m),C4(04/06,6700m),NE-Smt(06/06,7100m)
achievment: G. O. Dyhrenfurth said secondary summit reached
othersmts:
  Climbed Tengkoma (TENG-491-01), Sphinx (SPHN-491-01) and Dzanye (DZAN-491-01); attempted Ohmi Kangri (OHMI-491-01); recon Kangbachen (KANB-491-01) and Drohmo (DROM-491-01)


expid: RAMD55101
peakid: RAMD
year: 1955
route1: N Side
nation: UK
leaders: Alfred Gregory
sponsor: Merseyside Himalayan Expedition 1955
ascent1: 2nd
approach: Rolwaling Valley
smtdate: 1955-04-04
campsites: Smt(04/04)
primid: PARC55101
othersmts:
  Climbed Panaio Toupa (PANT-551-01), Parchamo (PARC-551-01), Pimu (PIMU-551-01), Chekigo (CHEK-551-01), Dingjung Ri (DING-551-01), Ripimo Shar (RIPI-551-01), Dapladadangdio and Singkar; attempted Pangbuk Ri (PANG-551-01); recon Gaurishankar (GAUR-551-01


expid: RATH87101
peakid: RATH
year: 1987
route1: W Face from Yalung Glacier
nation: India
leaders: K. V. Cherian
ascent1: 3rd
approach: From Yuksum->Chokka->Dzongri
bcdate: 1987-05-18
smtdate: 1987-05-24
smttime: 1200
othersmts: Attempted Kabru Dome (KABD-871-01); climbed Kabru Forked Peak
campsites:
  KabruBC(04/05,4420m),ABC(4800m),C1(11/05,5700m); RathongBC(18/05,5180m),C1(5500m),C2(6400m),Smt(24/05)

routememo:
  On 29th our team of 20 members left Darjeeling for Yuksam in West Sikkim. All our 20 climbers belonged to the famous 11 Gorkha Rifles in the Indian Army. We arrived BC at 4420m on 4th May at Chaurikiang. ABC at Dudh Pokhari on the northern slope of East Rathong Glacier at 4800m.

  3 Sherpas, Lakh Bahadur and Cherian went up the ridge and located a Camp I on the western flank of an icefall on the rocky ledge at 5700m. Reached the upper plateau of the Dome to establish C2 on 5 May and climbed through steep ice-gully of the icefall and reached the upper plateau of Kabru Dome.

  May 15 they climbed the Dome and reached the top of Dome peak where the head of the Dome exploring and observing the upper plateau. But soon realized that the route ahead was too dangerous with wide crevasses and a wide bergschrund which could not be negotiated. So returned to the last camp. 

  16 May Captain A. K. Singh and party left camp next day around 4:30 am to climb Forked Peak to view the upper plateau. The team had to cross crevassed area to reach the slope of Forked Peak and took righthand gulley. It took them 8 hours to reach the summit at 1 pm and returned to camp by 5 pm. By now the team was exhausted but they had the slight hope to try Rathong from the western route which the pre-Everesters of 1964 had followed. We decided to give it a try. They removed all of their gear from the highest camp to Dudh Pokhari camp. One party went out from Dudh Pokhari camp to Colonel Mall towards Rathong La to locate a camp across it.
   
  Within two days we established a camp at 5180m across Rathong La at West Rathong Glacier. We moved further to the junction of Yalung and West Rathong Glacier, turned north and reached just below the overhang of the Rathong icefall. We camped just close to this overhang on the Yalung Glacier at 5500m. Our route opening party inched its way up to the camp at 6400m just below the col between Kabru South and Rathong. We got down to 5500m camp planning for the summit bid. Weather indications were not good and the route which we had cut was semi-permanent in nature due to the frequent avalanches and fragile ice conditions. We had fixed six ropes on route which we knew would fall off in two days or so. It was a real effort to go up these ropes prussiking. Due to the steepness of the route and temporary nature, we could not anyway carry any load across. It was decided to put in an effort as fast as possible and that too in strength to avoid any fatal accidents. 

  Next day fourteen of us left our high camp with very light food and few ropes. It took us seven hours to reach the middle of the icefall front-pointing and prussiking up the rope. We took a little rest and again continued. After a few meters of climb we came across corniced ridge on the steep face where we had fixed 2 ropes previously. First group belayed each other and that to the plateau. Next was my groups turn Dendi Sherpa got through and fixed his ice axe belaying Teknath from the rear Basudev also belayed Teknath. It happened all of a sudden. I got pulled by Basudev rope and could not do anything and rest of the rope. Lakh Bahadur was behind me also did a self-arrest then called to me for a help. What had happened? Our rope was stretching down into a crevasse down where Basudev had fallen. There was no time to waste because the ice chamber can freeze a man within 15 minutes. Lakh unhooked himself, fixed a self belay for me and himself. We got down a few metres and saw Basudev dangling on his rope inside a crevasse about 40 metres below. It was an anxious moment, more help was required when we did not know as to whether he was hurt or not. Certainly he was not speaking. The last group also reached us. Lakh Bahadur and Cherian went down front-pointing and belayed from the top. Thank god! Basudev was not that badly hurt, he was breathing and could move. It took us another 20 minutes to get him out, semi-conscious and exhausted to the shock and chill. We had no option but to carry him all the way up to the summit camp 6400m.

  Next morning was chilly, around -30 degree Celsius or so. We climbed fully roped up to the col and called on to corniced knife ridge fixing 3 more ropes. By around 10 am we were on the upper slope of Rathong and another 2 hours of steep climb got us to the summit. Wind was blowing high on the summit. Magnificient view of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and other peaks on the west and Kangchenjunga on the east kept us on the summit for another 15 minutes. After taking a few photographs and offering prayer we descended to our camp clutching the ropes and carefully taking each step in high wind and blizzard, we reached our camps in about 6 pm. We spent the night in our high camps almost hungry and holding onto our ropes in our tent. The wind was very strong that night. Next morning we got down to our tent at 5500m. Here we spent the night and finally returned to our BC.
   
  Source: Himalayan Journal, 1986-87, pg 48-52.


expid: ROCN69101
peakid: ROCN
year: 1969
route1: Glacier Dome-E Ridge
nation: W Germany
leaders: Ludwig Greissl
ascent1: 1st,2nd
bcdate: 1969-04-02
smtdate: 1969-05-09
othersmts: Attempted Annapurna I (ANN1-691-01); climbed Glacier Dome (GLAC-691-01)
primid: ANN169101
campsites:
  BC(02/04,4300m),C1(09/04,5200m),C2(16/04,5900m),C3(22/04,6200m),C4(03/05,6500m),C5(07/05,7070m),C6(11/05,7250m),Smt(09,18/05)


expid: ROCN81101
peakid: ROCN
year: 1981
route1: Glacier Dome-E Ridge
nation: Sweden
leaders: Tommy Sandberg
sponsor: Swedish Himalayan Expedition 1981
ascent1: 3rd-5th
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 1981-04-06
smtdate: 1981-05-13
othersmts: Climbed Glacier Dome (GLAC-811-01), attempted Annapurna I (ANN1-811-01)
primid: ANN181101
campsites:
  BC(06/04,4200m),C1(08/04,5200m),C2(12/04,5800m),C3(27/04,6200m),C4(01/05,6650m),C5(04/05,7100m),Smt(13-14,16/05)


expid: ROCN84301
peakid: ROCN
year: 1984
route1: Glacier Dome-E Ridge (enroute to Annapurna I)
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Frank Tschirky
sponsor: Swiss Annapurna Expedition (to E Ridge of Annapurna I)
ascent1: 6th,7th
bcdate: 1984-09-17
smtdate: 1984-10-06
termdate: 1984-11-02
campsites: BC(17/09,4200m),C1(19/09,5600m),C2(27/09,6500m),C3(04/10,7100m),Smt(06,22/10)
primid: ANN184302
othersmts:
  Climbed Annapurna I (ANN1-843-02), Annapurna I East Smt (ANNE-843-01) and Annapurna I Middle Smt (ANNM-843-02); traversed under summit of Glacier Dome (GLAC-843-02)


expid: ROCN86301
peakid: ROCN
year: 1986
route1: Glacier Dome-E Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Marc Batard
sponsor: Annapurna 1986
countries: Belgium
approach: Pokhara->Annapurna Sanctuary
bcdate: 1986-10-19
smtdate: 1986-11-07
termdate: 1986-11-08
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m on Glacier Dome due to deep snow
othersmts: Climbed Glacier Dome (GLAC-863-01); attempted Annapurna I (ANN1-863-04)
agency: Sherpa Society
primid: ANN186304
campsites:
  BC(19/10,4200m),C1(21/10,5200m),C2(23/10,5800m),C3(28/10,6400m),Biv(06/11,7000m),xxx(07/11,7100m-Glacier Dome)

routememo:
  From Tent Pk 5300m to Fluted Pk, fixed 2500m fixed rope for less experienced clients on expedition. Did not climb Tent Pk, but went up small peak between Tent and Fluted Pk and then scaled Fluted Pk and down its N Face 100m to glacier (200m rope fixed here) where made C3. C3 reached by 4 French and 4 Sherpas. Then Batard and 2 Sherpas went on to make route and if possible to climb Roc Noir, to put C4 on Roc Noir summit; but stopped by very bad snow conditions of sugar snow and turned back. 7th Nov tried to climb onto E Ridge, but here snow conditions stopped them very soon going west; turned east towards Glacier Dome to try to gain ridge but again too dangerous snow. Left BC 8th Nov.


expid: SAIP54101
peakid: SAIP
year: 1954
route1: WSW Ridge of Firnkopf-W Ridge of Saipal
nation: Austria
leaders: Rudolf Jonas
sponsor: Austrian Himalyan Expedition to West Nepal
approach: Pithoragarh->Seti Khola->Ghat Khola
bcdate: 1954-05-08
smtdate: 1954-05-29
termdate: 1954-06-14
termnote: Abandoned due to member death and approaching monsoon
othersmts: Attempted Firnkopf (FIRN-541-01)
campsites: BC(08/05,4175m),C1,C2(c5800m),C3(29/05,6300m),xxx(6300m)
accidents: 1 member died of illness
routememo:
  Attempted Saipal from west side: 

  Plan was to climb WSW Ridge of Firnkopf -> Firnkopf summit -> W Ridge of Saipal -> Saipal summit. Stopped short of summit of Firnkopf.

  Karl Reiss died of pneumonia on Firnkopf.


expid: SAIP54301
peakid: SAIP
year: 1954
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Hilary James Harrington
sponsor: Oxford University Exploration Club Expedition to West Nepal
countries: UK, USA
termnote: Did not attempt climb
routememo:
  Abandoned plans to attempt Saipal after learning of difficulties of Austrian group in spring 1954. Instead explored area around Raksha Urai.


expid: SHA274101
peakid: SHA2
year: 1974
route1: S Ridge from SW
nation: W Germany
leaders: Gerhard Lenser
sponsor: West German Expedition to Lhotse
ascent1: 1st
countries: Austria
approach: Tumlingtar->Shipton La->Upper Barun Glacier (BC)
bcdate: 1974-04-05
smtdate: 1974-05-23
smttime: 1345
termdate: 1974-05-25
othersmts: Attempted Lhotse (LHOT-741-01)
primid: LHOT74101
campsites:
  BC(05/04,5400m),C1(13/04,5750m),C2(16/04,6100m),C3(27/04,6500m),C4(07/05,6600m),C5(08/05,6900m),Biv(22/05,7100m),Smt(23/05)


expid: SNOW79301
peakid: SNOW
year: 1979
route1: S side enroute Dhaulagiri II
nation: Japan
leaders: Michiko Takahashi
sponsor: Japan Dhaulagiri Traverse Expedition 1979
bcdate: 1979-09-02
termdate: 1979-10-26
termnote: Passed below summit enroute to Dhaulagiri II
primid: DHA279301
othersmts:
  Climbed Dhaulagiri II (DHA2-793-01), Dhaulagiri III (DHA3-793-01), Dhaulagiri V (DHA5-793-01) and Tsaurabong Peak (TSUR-793-01)


expid: SPHN93101
peakid: SPHN
year: 1993
route1: Sphinx: SE Ridge
route2: Pyramid: NE Ridge from Sphinx
nation: Japan
leaders: Yoshio Ogata, Harbhajan Singh
sponsor: Indo-Japanese Pyramid Expedition
ascent1: 3rd
countries: India
approach: From Sikkim
bcdate: 1993-03-17
smtdate: 1993-04-20
termdate: 1993-05-01
othersmts: Climbed Pyramid Peak (PYRM-931-01)
campsites: BC(17/03,4935m),ABC(07/04,5450m),C1(11/04,5600m),C2(19/04,6700m),Smt(20/04)
primid: PYRM93101
routememo:
  BC  at Green Lake on Zemu Glacier
  ABC at Tent Peak Glacier
  C1  at Changsang Glacier
  C2  at just below summit of Sphinx.

  Note: Sphinx actually was first climbed by a 3-man party led by J. K. Cooke in 1936. The 2nd ascent was by a 3-man party led by Alfred Sutter in 1949.

  Pathibara (Pyramid) and Pathibara N East (Sphynx). Our joint Indo-Japanese expedition climbed these two peaks for the first time from the Sikkimese side on the northeast. They lie some 12 kilometers north of Kangchenjunga. Swiss led by Ed Wyss-Dunant had attempted them from the Nepalese side in 1949 and reached the northeast summit of Pathibara, but they were unable to reach the main summit. I led five climbers of the Himalayan Association of Japan and Harbhajan Singh led eleven members of the Indo-Tibetan Border Police. Although base camp was first established at Green Lake on Zemu Glacier on March 17, heavy snows prevented all supplies from reaching there until April 13. Advance Base was placed at 5450 meters on the Tent Peak Glacier on April 7 after climbing an ice wall and fixing 250 meters of rope. We crossed the pass to the Changsang Glacier, fixing some rope, and placed Camp I there at 5600 meters on April 11. We climbed a tributary spur that descends to the southeast from Pathibara East and reached the crest of the summit ridge on April 17. On April 19, Camp 2 was placed just four pitches below the summit of Pathibara East (Sphynx: 6824 meters, 22,388 feet). We made the first ascent of this peak on April 20 and continued on along the northeast ridge of Pathibara. On April 22, we extended the fixed line to the col between the northeast top and the main summit. On April 24, Japanese Hiroshi Iwazaki, Nobuhiro Shingo and I and Indians Jot Singh Bhundari, Sunder Sing Martolia, Lopsang Sherpa and Purba Lepcha climbed to the summit of Pathibara (Pyramid; 7123 meters, 23,369 feet), followed on April 26 by Japanese Masanori Suzuki, Kazuaki Hirata and Indian Hira Ram. The route from C2 was a mixture of steep ice slopes and a traverse along a knife-edge that demanded technical skill. We climbed along the Changsang Glacier side of the knife-edged summit ridge. The seven pitches from the northeast peak to the top were the crux of the climb. Also on the 26th, Harbhajan Singh, A. S. Rawat, Chhoda Tshering, Durban Sing and Perna Kumar Gurung followed the first three but due to a sudden change of weather, they could not continue to the main peak. They climbed the northeast peak (c.7000 meters, 22,966 ft). A photograph and a map appear in Iwa To Yuki of August 1993.


expid: TAWO63101
peakid: TAWO
year: 1963
route1: E Face
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Edmund Hillary
sponsor: Himalayan Schoolhouse Expedition
countries: USA
bcdate: 1963-04-13
smtdate: 1963-05-07
termnote: Abandoned at 6450m due to difficult corniced ridge
othersmts: Climbed Kangtega (KTEG-631-01)
campsites: BC(13/04,4875m),C1(15/04,5500m),C2(05/05,6100m),xxx(07/05,6450m)
primid: KTEG63101
routememo:
  Letter of Mr Wilson - April 29, 19??

  We think our route on Tawache is the easiest though no one here seems to know what route the French took with their skis. There's a small lake at about 17,000 ft, more or less directly above Pangboche sitting in between the South and East Ridges, i.e., underneath the South East Face, if I have my directions correct. We had a base camp there. From there an obvious and easy snow ramp leads up across to the right through a line of cliffs to a small snowfield on the South East Face. We had a camp at the top of the snowfield. It did get a rock through a tent one day, but this may have been a rock we kicked down from above - though I admit we didn't use the camp much after that just in case, this camp would have been at about 18,000 ft I think. From the top of this snowfield we went up a rock rib, fairly easy by today's standards though we had snow on it which made it trying. Where the rib faded a bit - perhaps 1000 ft above the snowfield - we traversed up left across what were then rather treacherous snowslopes (moderately deep snow soft crumbly snow) across a gully, then more directly up a snow rib to reach the crest of the South Ridge above its big rock steps. (We'd rosed up to the foot of the South Ridge earlier but decided these big rock steps were too big). We then followed the South Ridge up to smaller rock steps and a steepish but not difficult snow section, to the large snow plateau that sits under the summit between the East and West Ridges. We had a 2nd camp on the lower edge of this plateau. The plateau itself was not a plod, then we went up from the right hand corner of it (looking up - i.e., upper eastern edge) up steep snow and final small recliff to reach a shoulder on the upper east ridge. A 100 yards or so along this shoulder, still about 200-300 ft below and perhaps 300 yards away from the summit, we ran into double cornices on a very narrow snow ridge and decided the final bit was too dangerous for married men (at least Mike Gill and I did, Ang Temba agreed - Dave Dornan wanted to go on). My impression since that in post monsoon this section is less corniced and would be safer (we were premonsoon). From my experience on Thamserku post-monsoon the following year I'd think the rest of the route would certainly be no more difficult the we struck it (we had fairly persistent bad weather and bad snow and would probably be easier, snow firmer, rock clearer. I'm not sure I'd like to lead a commercial party up - but as long as the party is composed of climbers it might be Ok. Certainly Messner himself would have not difficulty on the route, save for the question mark about the final bit of ridge. We fixed ropes from the 1st camp to the 2nd and had a wire ladder on one of the rock steps on the South Ridge, so loads could be carried up easily and safely. This would certainly assist a commercial party but took a lot of time of course.


expid: KIRA86301
peakid: KIRA
year: 1986
route1: S Ridge from Nepal Pk
nation: France
leaders: Dominique Hembise
sponsor: Joint Nepal-French Kirat Chuli Expedition
bcdate: 1986-10-03
smtdate: 1986-10-16
termdate: 1986-10-25
termnote: Abandoned at 6650m due to snow, wind and Hembise's frostbite
othersmts: Attempted Nepal Peak (NEPA-863-01)
campsites: BC(03/10,5200m),C1(05/10,5700m),C2(13/10,6150m),xxx(16/10,6650m)
accidents: Dominique Hembise frostbitten fingers and toes (they will heal)
agency: Trekking & Expedition Services (TES)
primid: NEPA86301
routememo:
  BC at base of Cock's Comb, west of Nepal Camp
  C1 in cwm half way between Cross Peak & Nepal Peak
  C2 on South Ridge of Nepal Peak (a little on Sikkimese side)
  High point at South Ridge of Nepal Peak.

  C1 in Cwm which was dangerously threatened by snow avalanches: small avalanches came near C1 in center of Cwm. On 16 Oct turned down because rotten snow on ridge but did not have enough fixed rope at the time. 

  Now Dominique Hembise had frostbitten fingers and stopped climbing. Other could not carry on because frequent new snowfall and strong wind on ridge: great turbulance of wind from Nepal and Sikkim. Gave up climb because members discouraged by bad weather conditions. All left mountain 19-25 Oct.

  Dominique Hembise frostbitten fingers and toes, but they will heal. No other problems (except mild altitude illness in start of expedition). Lazizi used oxygen at acclimatization camp in beginning when he did not acclimatize well; he went onto to some climbing.

  Dominique Hembise found jute rope from 1930's expedition.


expid: THAR65101
peakid: THAR
year: 1965
route1: NW Ridge
nation: W Germany
leaders: Guenter Hauser
sponsor: German Alpine Association
ascent1: 2nd
bcdate: 1965-04-06
smtdate: 1965-05-24
termdate: 1965-06-03
campsites: BC(06/04,3750m),C1(19/05,4550m),C2(23/05,5400m),Smt(24/05)
primid: GANG65101
othersmts:
  Climbed Gangapurna (GANG-651-01) and Glacier Dome (GLAC-651-01); permit for Annapurna I (ANN1-651-01)


expid: TLNG63301
peakid: TLNG
year: 1963
nation: Japan
leaders: Kenji Ishihara
sponsor: Tokyo-Osaka University Joint Himalayan Expedition
approach: Kangbachen BC->Ghunsa BC
bcdate: 1963-10-28
termdate: 1963-11-20
termnote: Termination reason unknown
campsites: BC(28/10,3800m),xxx(7250m)
primid: SPH163301
othersmts:
  Climbed Sharphu (SPH1-633-01), Tsisima (TSIS-633-01) and Syamdo Kangri (1st); attempted Drohmo (DROM-633-01) and Merra (MERR-633-01); climbed 2 Tibetan peaks in Ombak Himal (OMBK-633-01)


expid: TONG62101
peakid: TONG
year: 1962
route1: SW Ridge from E
nation: Japan
leaders: Shijiro Ishizaka
sponsor: Nihon University
ascent1: 2nd
bcdate: 1962-05-06
smtdate: 1962-05-09
campsites: BC(06/05,5450m),ABC(07/05),Smt(09/05)
primid: HONG62101
othersmts:
  Climbed Hongde (HONG-621-01), Dhampus (DHAM-621-01) and Kangtokla (KTOK-621-01); attempted Churen Himal (CHUR-621-01); recon Dhaulagiri II


expid: TUKU88301
peakid: TUKU
year: 1988
route1: NW Ridge to NW Summit
nation: S Korea
leaders: Cho Chung-Sool
sponsor: 1988 Korean Himalaya Dhaulagiri, Tukuche Peak Expedition
smtdate: 1988-11-15
othersmts: Climbed Dhaulagiri I (DHA1-883-04)
campsites: BC(4000m),C1(5800m),C2(6500m),NW-Smt(15/11,6837m)
achievment: Reached NW Summit
agency: Adventure Nepal
primid: DHA188304
routememo:
  Tukuche summit Jun Jae-Young, Lee Sang-Hun, Park Youk-Kwang and Wangchu on 15th Nov. C2 on 6500m NW Ridge on Nepal Army route and reached NW Summit. BC between Dhampus and French Passes at 4000m+ and C1 5800m on NW Ridge. Went to NW peak by mistake: thought they went to main summit. Found were on wrong summit after descent and discussion with Ang Dorje, who went to top with Koreans in Aut 1985.


expid: TUKU89401
peakid: TUKU
year: 1989
nation: France
leaders: Laurent Lukie
sponsor: Dhaulagiri Winter 1989
ascent1: 13th
othersmts: Attempted Dhaulagiri I (DHA1-894-01)
primid: DHA189401
routememo:
  Ascent by Laurent Lukie and 2 members.

  We stopped attempting Dhaulagiri I at 5200m and then, Besson, Beulne and Lukie climbed Tukuche peak by the NE Ridge. Then we returned to Dhaulagiri base camp. 

  Source from the American Alpine Journal 1990, page 254.


expid: MERR63301
peakid: MERR
year: 1963
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kenji Ishihara
sponsor: Tokyo-Osaka University Joint Himalayan Expedition
approach: Kangbachen BC->Ghunsa BC
bcdate: 1963-10-28
termdate: 1963-11-20
campsites: BC(28/10,3800m),xxx(Nov,6100m)
primid: SPH163301
othersmts:
  Climbed Sharphu (SPH1-633-01), Tsisima (TSIS-633-01) and Syamdo Kangri (1st); attempted Drohmo (DROM-633-01) and Talung (TLNG-633-01); climbed 2 Tibetan peaks in Ombak Himal (OMBK-633-01)


expid: TSUR75101
peakid: TSUR
year: 1975
route1: E Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Eiichi Umeki
sponsor: Okayama University-Nepal Himalaya Expedition
ascent1: 4th-11th
bcdate: 1975-03-01
smtdate: 1975-04-12
termdate: 1975-05-11
othersmts: Climbed Dhaulagiri V (DHA5-751-01)
campsites: TempBC(01/03),BC(13/03,4800m),C1(22/03,5300m),C2(03/04,5900m),Smt(12/04)
primid: DHA575101
routememo:
  4th-11th ascents:

  12,18,20,26-30 April by all members (some more than once) plus several Sherpas.


expid: TSUR87301
peakid: TSUR
year: 1987
route1: E Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Angel Serra Jubany
sponsor: Catalonian Expedition Dhaulagiri V
approach: Myagdi Khola->Puchar
bcdate: 1987-09-21
smtdate: 1987-10-03
termnote: C2 for Dhaulagiri V attempt on summit of White Peak
othersmts: Attempted Dhaulagiri V (DHA5-873-01)
campsites: TempBC(21/09,3550m),BC(26/09,4900m),C1,C2,Smt(03-05/10)
agency: Kunga
primid: DHA587301
routememo:
  White Peak scaled on 3rd Oct by all 4 members; 4th Oct by all 4 members; 5th Oct by 2 Sherpas (C2 was placed on summit).


expid: YALU81102
peakid: YALU
year: 1981
route1: SE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Kinichi Yamamori
sponsor: Himalayan Association of Japan Kangchenjunga Expedition 1981
ascent1: 6th
bcdate: 1981-03-16
smtdate: 1981-05-09
smttime: 1230
othersmts: Climbed Kangchenjunga (KANG-811-01)
primid: KANG81101
campsites:
  BC(16/03,5500m),C1(22/03,6150m),C2(29/03,6450m),C3.ABC(14/04,7300m),C4W(20/04,7850m),C5W(08/05,8300m),Smt(09/05)


expid: YALU89101
peakid: YALU
year: 1989
route1: SE Ridge
route2: SE Ridge up; N Ridge-Cntrl/Main/South Smts down
route3: South/Main/Cntrl Smts-N Ridge up; SE Ridge down
nation: USSR
leaders: Eduard Myslovsky
sponsor: Soviet Expedition to Kangchenjunga Massif
ascent1: 14th
ascent2: 15th
ascent3: 16th
bcdate: 1989-03-09
smtdate: 1989-04-30
smttime: 1155
othersmts: Climbed/traversed 3 Kangchenjunga summits (KANG-891-01, KANC-891-01, KANS-891-01)
agency: Amtrek
primid: KANG89101
campsites:
  BC(09/03,5350m),C1(16/03,6150m),C2(18/03,6450m),C3(24/03,7250m),C4(07/04,7650m),C5(08/04,8200m),Smt(30/04,02/05)


expid: CHOY95313
peakid: CHOY
year: 1995
route1: W side from S
nation: Spain
leaders: Felix Inurrategi
ascent1: 174
bcdate: 1995-08-28
smtdate: 1995-09-11
termdate: 1995-09-14
othersmts: Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-953-02)
campsites: BC(28/08,5200m),Biv(09/09,5700m),Biv(10/09,6800m),Smt(11/09)
agency: In Wilderness (Kunga)
primid: LHOT95302
routememo:
  3 members and Onchu went directly to Gokyo before arriving at Lhotse BC. Did some acclimatization climbing around Nangpa La, rested at BC and then camped on 9 Sept at Nangpa La. 10th to C1 by normal route at 6800m. 11th to top and back to 6800m. 12th to BC, then to Lhotse.

  Uribesalyo went to Nangpa La with this party but did not attempt climb.

  Team did not have permit for Cho Oyu, only for Lhotse.

  Inurrategi brothers not aiming to climb all 8000ers.

  8 Oct 95 - Vallejo's said Inurrategi's had no problem with Tibetan officials about crossing Nangpa La and climbing without permit.


expid: LHOT98104
peakid: LHOT
year: 1998
route1: W Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Norbert Joos
sponsor: Swiss Everest Lhotse Expedition
bcdate: 1998-04-19
smtdate: 1998-05-19
termdate: 1998-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 8400m due to exhaustion from climbing alone
othersmts: Attempted Everest (EVER-981-30)
accidents: Nothing
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
primid: EVER98130
campsites:
  BC(19/04),C2(24/04,6500m),C3(05/05,7400m),C4(18/05,7900m),xxx.Everest(19/05,8200m),xxx.Lhotse(19/05,8400m)

routememo:
  C3 slightly higher than others
  C4 at South Col.

  In Everest Summit attempt from C2 direct to South Col on 18 May and left Col for top at midnight but turned back at 8200m on 19 May with strong wind and not feeling strong: Joos and Marugg were in this team. Down to BC. 

  Rizzi on 19 May up for Lhotse; from C3 on 20th but too slow and stopped at 8400m at 12 hours climbing: probably too difficult for him without partners and became very tired. Then reports of bad weather made team decide to abandon climb.


expid: RAMT30101
peakid: RAMT
year: 1930
route1: Ridge from S
nation: Germany
leaders: G. O. Dyhrenfurth
ascent1: 1st
countries: Austria, UK
bcdate: 1930-04-26
smtdate: 1930-05-19
campsites: BC(26/04,5050m),Smt(19/05)
primid: KANG30101
othersmts:
  Climbed Jongsang (JONG-301-01), Domo (DOMO-301-01) and Nepal Peak (NEPA-301-01); recon Kangbachen (KANB-301-01); attempted Kangchenjunga (KANG-301-01)


expid: LING35201
peakid: LING
year: 1935
route1: SW Ridge from N
nation: UK
leaders: Eric Shipton
ascent1: 1st
countries: New Zealand
bcdate: 1935-07-06
smtdate: 1935-08-10
smttime: 1120
termdate: 1935-08-14
othersmts: Recon Everest (EVER-352-01); attempted Changtse (CTSE-352-01)
campsites: EverestBC(06/07,5000m),C1(05/08),C2.Col(09/08),Smt(10/08)
primid: EVER35201
routememo:
  "Sherpas:"
    Pasang (Gyangtse)
    Tsering Tarki (Shigatse)
    Angtensing Sherpa (Mingbo, Khumbu)
    Aila Kitar Sherpa (Yilajung, Khumbu)


expid: IMJA53101
peakid: IMJA
year: 1953
route1: SW Smt
nation: UK
leaders: John Hunt
sponsor: British Expedition to Mt. Everest
ascent1: 1st of SW Smt
campsites: SW-Smt(April)
primid: EVER53101
othersmts:
  Climbed Everest (EVER-531-01), Ambu Gyabjen (AMBG-531-01), Kangchung Nup (KCHN-531-01), Pointed Peak (POIN-531-01), Pokalde (POKA-531-01) and Chhukung Tse (CHUK-531-01)


expid: CHUL55201
peakid: CHUL
year: 1955
nation: W Germany
leaders: Heinz Steinmetz
sponsor: German Nepal Expedition
ascent1: 1st
smtdate: 1955-07-23
campsites: Smt(23/07)
primid: ANN455101
othersmts:
  Climbed Annapurna IV (ANN4-551-01), Kang Guru (KGUR-552-01), Pisang (PISA-552-01), Dam Kang West, Kang Juri, Lamjung West and Yulo Kang (all 1st ascents); recon Lamjung (LAMJ-552-01)


expid: IMJA60301
peakid: IMJA
year: 1960
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Edmund Hillary
sponsor: Himalayan Scientific and Mountaineering Expedition
ascent1: 3rd
campsites: Smt(Nov)
primid: MAKA61101
othersmts:
  Climbed Ombigaichen (OMBG-603-01), recon Lhotse Shar (LSHR-603-01) and Shartse (SHAR-603-01); climbed Ama Dablam (AMAD-611-01); attempted Makalu (MAKA-611-01)


expid: EVER65102
peakid: EVER
year: 1965
route1: N side (attempt reported, not confirmed)
nation: China
routememo:
  Lute Gerstad - 14 Jan 66

  Apparently to 20,000 ft road up East Rangbuk Glacier which is stable moraine - pushed by Chinese last year for attempt to climb Everest again fall 1966  - "lots" of trucks - purpose of road to get supplies as high as possible and yaks to carry higher - also and more importantly to put road into Nepal in Everest on top of road thus apparently at site of C3 at beginning of permanent snow and movement in glacier ice. Said attempt made to climb last fall - on north side weather much more stable after monsoon - very cold but if not can save month's time and easy walk from North Col to 28,000 ft - actually many not have been climbing attempt last fall but merely setting up stores - trying put road between Everest and Makalu to enter Nepal there.

  C3 at foot of North Col.

  Kobe Academic Alpine Club - 3 Japanese

  He hopes bring German Alpine Club expedition to Annapurna in 1971 to try either via north side Glacier Dome (where thinks weather would be better) or if Nepal, doesn't give permission for north, from South Annapurna Glacier, not West Annapurna Glacier thus avoiding dangerous area ice seracs below C3

  Wants 6-7 members and 12 Sherpas.


expid: MAKA71101
peakid: MAKA
year: 1971
route1: W Pillar
nation: France
leaders: Robert Paragot
sponsor: F. F. M. Makalu Expedition
ascent1: 5th
approach: Dharan->Sedua->Shipton La->Barun Glacier (BC)
bcdate: 1971-03-19
smtdate: 1971-05-23
smttime: 1615
campsites:
  BC(19/03,4900m),C1(25/03,5300m),C2.ABC(5900m),C3(27/04,6550m),C4(29/04,7380m),C5(18/05,7650m),C6(20/05,7700m),Smt(23/05)


expid: CHOY98301
peakid: CHOY
year: 1998
route1: NW side (direct rte)
nation: Finland
leaders: Britta Jokela, Tuula Nousiainen
sponsor: Finnish Women's Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 301
bcdate: 1998-08-29
smtdate: 1998-09-24
smttime: 1320
termdate: 1998-09-29
campsites: BC(29/08),ABC(02/09,5500m+),C1(10/09,6300m),C2(22/09,6800m),C3(23/09,7400m),Smt(24/09)
accidents: Nothing
achievment: 1st Finnish ascent
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Nousiainen reached summit on 24th at 13:26 NST. Ahead of her was Nanda Dorje Sherpa, one of her Sherpas, who was in the front party to summit that day, which included Australian woman, Sue Fear, and her "Sherpa" Nima Tamang; with Nousiainen to top was Chhong Ringe, who had summitted Cho Oyu 2 times before (Nanda Dorje once before). Climb was not technically difficult, only tiring - just 2 technical sections on this route: icefall between C1 and C2 and rock band above C3; just before she reached top, there was small avalanche which hurt no one but was frightening.

  * Asian Trekking's files showed his name as Chhong, born 5 March 64, from Rolwaling, summited Cho Oyu in 1994 with Japanese. Actually he had also summited Cho Oyu with Dutch in May 1998, as this his 3rd ascent, not 5th.


expid: CHOY98302
peakid: CHOY
year: 1998
route1: NW side from N (direct rte)
nation: Australia
leaders: Sue Fear
ascent1: 302
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1998-08-29
smtdate: 1998-09-24
smttime: 1320
termdate: 1998-09-30
campsites: BC(29/08),ABC(02/09,5800m?),C1(10/09,6300m+),C2(22/09,7200m),C3(23/09,7500m),Smt(24/09)
achievment: 1st Australian women summiter
agency: Sea to Summit Trekking
routememo:
  "So many people" at the mountain and "no respite - no restaurant to go to. I'm tired of the rocks and the fierce competition from the men." Fear went to C1 six times, carrying loads and acclimatizing, setting route and fixing ropes. To top from C3, left 5:40 am NST and on top at 1:20 (saw Everest) and slept in C3 where arrived about 5:30 pm, exhausted. Back to C1 on 25th and ABC 26th.

  Nima Dorje Tamang, Pirangding, Kerung, Solu, July 1951, his 1st 8000er


expid: CHOY98321
peakid: CHOY
year: 1998
route1: NW side (direct rte)
nation: Spain
leaders: Miquel Comes
sponsor: Cho Oyu Sabadell Expedition
ascent1: 305
bcdate: 1998-09-01
smtdate: 1998-09-25
smttime: 1035
termdate: 1998-09-28
campsites: BC(01/09,4850m),ABC(07/09,5000m),C1(14/09,6420m),C2(17/09,7100m),C3(24/09,7500m),Smt(26/09)
accidents: Comes tooth infection; Tarke slight frostbite 3 finger
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  18th Comes and 1 Sherpa tried to go for top from C2 but too deep snow and Sherpa didn't like this (avalanche danger) so down to ABC 18th. 

  22nd Comes, Pons and 2 Sherpas from ABC to C1, 23rd to C2, 24th had to open routes and go to C3 and established it; 25th 7:00 Chinese time all 4 to top, at 12:50 (10:35 NST) by Comes and Tarke Sherpa (Swiss and 1 from Sloezen expedition at 12:55). Pons and his Sherpa met descending pair at 14:45 at 7900m and turned back with them because too late to continue up; all 4 to C2 and 26th to ABC. 

  Sherpa:
    Tarke Sherpa, 1967, Lokhim VDC, Solukhumbu, his 1st 8000er


expid: CHOY98303
peakid: CHOY
year: 1998
route1: NW side (direct from C3)
nation: Germany
leaders: Juergen Wolter
sponsor: First Saarland Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 300
bcdate: 1998-09-06
smtdate: 1998-09-24
smttime: 1300
termdate: 1998-09-29
campsites: BC(06/09,4990m),ABC(10/09,5700m),C1(13/09,6400m),C2(17/09,7100m),C3(20/09,7400m),Smt(24/09)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Blanchebarbe to C2 on 22nd, C3 23rd and top 24th with Mingma Sherpa. All members reached 7000m, Wuerkler to 7500m on 24th, but turned back because too late.

  Mingma Sherpa, Tapting, Solukhumbu, 28 May 68, his 1st 8000er


expid: CHOY98304
peakid: CHOY
year: 1998
route1: NW side (direct rte)
nation: Italy
leaders: Renzo Benedetti
sponsor: Cho Oyu 1998
ascent1: 308
bcdate: 1998-09-08
smtdate: 1998-09-26
smttime: 1030
termdate: 1998-09-30
campsites: BC(08/09,4700m),ABC(12/09,5400m),C1(15/09,6400m),C2(20/09,7100m),Smt(26/09)
accidents: Pasini severe headache; Carreri sick ('many problems') and left BC 20 Sept
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  21st Sept to ABC for rest and 24th to C1, 25th to C2. C2 made and summit bid by 4 members (not Pasini and Carreri), but in C2 Buonadonna and Campagna developed headaches and go down to ABC while Benedetti and Dibona to top and returned to C2 and 27th ABC (Buonadonna also vomiting in C2). Could not see Everest, etc. from summit because of cloud cover but found flags.


expid: CHOY98305
peakid: CHOY
year: 1998
route1: NW side (direct rte)
nation: Romania
leaders: Constantin Lacatusu
sponsor: Independent climber
ascent1: 304
bcdate: 1998-09-10
smtdate: 1998-09-24
smttime: 1500
termdate: 1998-09-29
campsites: BC(10/09),ABC(13/09,5700m),C1(17/09,6300m),C2(23/09,7000m),Smt(24/09)
accidents: Nothing
achievment: 1st Romanian ascent
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Lacatusu left ABC for top on 20 to C1, and 22nd to put gear, 23rd slept in C2; left C2 at 1:00 am NST and on top 3:00 pm and slept in C2. "For next was perfect." Were some avalanches on snow face. Climbed independently.

  Did not attempt couloir of NW Face as planned because of snow conditions: too much snow.


expid: CHOY98306
peakid: CHOY
year: 1998
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Antonio Pifarre
sponsor: Independent climber on Cho Oyu (on Angel Cinca permit)
bcdate: 1998-09-03
smtdate: 1998-09-13
termdate: 1998-09-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to fatigue
campsites: BC(03/09),ABC(07/09,5700m),C1(10/09,6400m),C2(13/09,7200m),xxx(13/09,7200m)
agency: None
routememo:
  BC at road
  High point at C2.

  Cinca team: Pifarre went no higher than C2 because he had become very tired - he felt this was high enough. On 14th Sept descended to C1 and stayed there on 15th, on 16th to ABC and did not go up again, but did not leave until Cinca team did on 30th. Was independent of Cinca team with our tentage and food, but sometimes climbed with them. All were on same permit.

  Pifarre: asked whether he liked climbing alone, he said. "No, I did it because of circumstances" without elaborating.


expid: CHOY98307
peakid: CHOY
year: 1998
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Scott Woolums
sponsor: American Cho Oyu - Autumn 98
ascent1: 315
bcdate: 1998-09-05
smtdate: 1998-09-28
smttime: 1100
termdate: 1998-10-05
campsites: BC(05/09),ABC(10/09,5700m),C1(15/09,6400m),C2(20/09,7000m),C3(27/09,7400m),Smt(28/09)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Nepal Myths & Mountain Trails
routememo:
  C3 reached by Marshall, Shin and Woolums; got to C3 on 27th and next morning Shin didn't feel well and went down with a Sherpa. Marshall, Woolums, and Rinzi (from Kharikhola) up towards top. Left C3 at 2:20 NST, got stuck behind OTT party in queue at rock band at about 7500m. Marshall and Rinzi to shoulder at 7800m+ but Marshall felt altitude affecting him and both down to C3 while Woolums broke trail to top which reached about 11:00 am NST, joined Marshall and Rinzi at C3 and all 3 down to C2 for night (Woolums helped OTT's Foster descend). Woolums used oxygen in queue and later breaking trail and kept it on at top and in descent till gave it to Foster.


expid: CHOY98308
peakid: CHOY
year: 1998
route1: NW side (direct rte)
nation: Japan
leaders: Masahiko Taniguchi
sponsor: Taniguchi Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 309
bcdate: 1998-09-08
smtdate: 1998-09-26
smttime: 0827
termdate: 1998-09-30
campsites: BC(08/09,4800m),ABC(10/09,5600m),C1(15/09,6200m),C2(24/09,7100m),C3(25/09,7600m),Smt(26/09)
agency: Rolwaling Trek
routememo:
  Left C3 3:30 am NST 26 Sept and on top 8:27 am and left top 9:22 am, arrived C3 11:20, left C3 12:30 and in C2 1:30 pm; left C2 2:00 pm and in C1 4:00 pm to sleep. Taniguchi wanted to enjoy climbing mountain listened and obeyed what he was told, very fast, didn't worry, easy going. Very deep snow and warm so Nukita afraid of avalanche but none serious seen. Climb went very smoothly, perfect.


expid: CHOY98309
peakid: CHOY
year: 1998
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Serafin Fernandez
sponsor: Pelaroques - Valles Oriental Cho Oyu Expedition 1998
ascent1: 313
bcdate: 1998-09-08
smtdate: 1998-09-27
smttime: 1115
termdate: 1998-10-03
campsites: BC(08/09),ABC(11/09,5650m),C1(18/09,6450m),C2(19/09,7000m),C3(26/09,7500m),Smt(27/09)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Mingote went to summit with Jaun Carlos Gomez, who held permit which this and 2 other teams were on. Mingote and Gomez left C3 at 5:00 am NST on 27 Sept, reached top at 11:15 NST and back in C3 at 2:15 pm; saw Everest from summit.


expid: CHOY98310
peakid: CHOY
year: 1998
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Xavi Arias
sponsor: Gelade Expedition to Cho Oyu 1998
bcdate: 1998-09-08
smtdate: 1998-09-27
termdate: 1998-10-03
campsites: BC/08/09),ABC(11/09,5650m),C1(18/09,6450m),C2(19/09,7000m),C3(26/09,7500m),xxx(27/09,7800m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Arias tried for summit on 27th with members of Gomez and Fernandez groups but turned back at 7800m when his feet had become very cold.

  This group and two others on permit held by Juan Carlos Gomez.


expid: CHOY98311
peakid: CHOY
year: 1998
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Juan Carlos Gomez Ramos
sponsor: Montanas del Mundo Spanish Cho Oyu 1998 Expedition
ascent1: 312
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1998-09-08
smtdate: 1998-09-27
smttime: 1115
termdate: 1998-10-03
campsites: BC(08/09),ABC(11/09,5650m),C1(18/09,6450m),C2(19/09,7000m),C3(26/09,7500m),Smt(27/09)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Four groups on same permit led by Gomez, Fernandez, Monte and Arias went together from KTM to ABC, climbed together to C2 and left ABC and BC to return to KTM together, but Monte group reached C3 a day later than others and sent members to top a day later.

  27 Sept summit party of Gomez and Juan started for top from C3 at 5:00 am NST and Gomez on top at 11:15 am while Juan turned back at 7800m because tired and had breathing difficulty. Gomez back in C3 at 2:15 pm and slept there. Mingote of Fernandez group went up with them - saw Everest from summit.


expid: CHOY98312
peakid: CHOY
year: 1998
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Raul Vicente Monte
sponsor: Politecnio Expedition to Cho Oyu 1998
ascent1: 317
bcdate: 1998-09-08
smtdate: 1998-09-28
smttime: 1545
termdate: 1998-10-03
campsites: BC(08/09),ABC(11/09,5650m),C1(18/09,6450m),C2(19/09,7000m),C3(27/09,7500m),Smt(29/09)
accidents: Both summiters slight frostbite
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Summit team started from C3 at 4:45 am NST and on top at 15:45 pm. Much snow now on mountain. Snowfell during night of 27-28th and each night thereafter. Summiters were slowed by snow, returned to C3 at midnight, very tired and slightly frostbitten.

  This group and two others were on permit held by Juan Carlos Gomez.


expid: CHOY98313
peakid: CHOY
year: 1998
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Cho Oyu Expedition 1998
ascent1: 301
countries: Australia, Canada, New Zealand, USA
bcdate: 1998-09-05
smtdate: 1998-09-24
smttime: 1315
termdate: 1998-10-04
campsites: BC(05/09),ABC(08/09,5700m),C1(11/09,6400m),C2(13/09,7000m),C3(23/09,7400m),Smt(24/09)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  On 24th Brice and Grey set off from C3 together at 4:00 am NST; Grey too tired to continue at 8100m at 10:30 am and Brice went down with him and gave the two Sherpas the chance to go to top for first time. Summit party returned to C3 at 6:30 pm in deep snow. 

  29th another summit bid by Cumming, Ward, Barton-Smith, McGreary [aborted due to bad weather, snowfall].


expid: CHOY98314
peakid: CHOY
year: 1998
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Robert Sloezen
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) American Cho Oyu Expedition 1998
ascent1: 316
countries: Canada, Norway
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1998-09-01
smtdate: 1998-09-28
smttime: 1115
termdate: 1998-10-05
campsites: BC(01/09),ABC(06/09,5600m),C1(09/09,5900m),C2(22/09,7200m),C3(27/09,7500m),Smt(28/09)
accidents: Smith ill (altitude?); Hamlin blood pressure problem
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  On 28th summit party was Robinson, Ousland, Macdonald, Arnette. Latter 2 turned back at about 8100m; Arnette tired and feet cold and MacDonald as guide went with him and lost her chance for summit. No more summit attempts because snow too deep as weather had changed.

  On the 30th, the second summit team of Bob Sloezen, Jason Dittmer, Bob LaRoche, and Tony Smucler, Ang Passang and Lakpa Rita turned back below C3 due to deep snow and avalanche conditions. The other two team members, Mike Demartino and Henry Hamlin, had turned back from below C2 due to fatigue (Mike) and dizziness, nausea, and blurry vision (Henry).

  Arnette and Ousland arrived at BC 8 Sept and ABC 10 Sept. Their late arrival meant MacDonald had to go down to meet them and stay with them for rest of climb and leader lost his assistant at his side.

  MacDonald now does not want to climb again in Himalaya after having helped Swiss independent climbers, Alexander Jaggi, on same permit. Too many deaths starting with Michael Reinberger on Everest and including many more.

  Mooroka and Jaggi = independent team above ABC. 


expid: CHOY98315
peakid: CHOY
year: 1998
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Jonathan Tinker, Tom Richardson
sponsor: OTT (Out There Trekking) Cho Oyu Expedition
countries: Germany, USA
bcdate: 1998-09-05
smtdate: 1998-09-28
termdate: 1998-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to tiredness and cold
campsites: BC(08/09),ABC(08/09,5700m),C1(15/09,6400m),C2(20/09,7000m),C3(27/09,7400m),xxx(28/09,8000m)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Nepal Myths & Mountain Trails
routememo:
  28th summit bid but stopped at 8000m because tired; cold from waiting in queue to go through rock band. Foster, Hamza, Johnson, Richardson and 3 Sherpas reached this high point. 

  On 29th another group couldn't leave C3 because heavy snowfall previous day and night: Benegas, Doyle, Paul Mann, Hengge and Ross and 3 Sherpas in this group - down to C1 on ABC that day and climb finished. 

  Foster tired and used oxygen in C3 and down night of 29th.


expid: CHOY98316
peakid: CHOY
year: 1998
route1: NW side
nation: Estonia
leaders: Toivo Sarmet
sponsor: Cho Oyu 1998 - First Estonian Himalayan Expedition
ascent1: 318,320
bcdate: 1998-09-13
smtdate: 1998-10-09
smttime: 1045
termdate: 1998-10-14
campsites: BC(13/09),ABC(15/09,5700m),C1(17/09,6400m),C2(22/09,7100m),C3(29/09,7500m),Smt(09,11/10)
accidents: Suuk altitude sickness; Riga bronchitis (went to Tingri)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  1st summit bid on 1st by Sarapuu and Riga from C3 but turned back after 100m gained because couldn't see well in dark at 4:00 am 1:45 NST (headlamp not working), strong wind, track of others footprints lost in new snow; returned to C3 and on 2nd altitude down to ABC. Same pair left 6 Oct from ABC to C1, 7th to C2 and 8th to C3 and 9th top. 9th left C3 2:45 NST on top 10:45 am, saw Everest - snow deep on plateau. Returned to C3 about 11:30 by Riga, who was in hurry with freezing toes and 1:00 by Sarapuu, who took pix - summiters stayed 10th also in C3 because tents to leave any in C1. 

  6 members tried for top on 11 Oct and 3 turned back (Suuk altitude sickness, Lai too late, Kunnap tired and cold) while Proos, Plummer and Sarmet went to top behind Germans and with them.

  Sue Fear - 3 Oct 98: This was "poorest expedition I've ever seen" - no mess [tent], ate standing in the snow eating from tins. Had some heavy Soviet equipment, but were very generous, hospitable people.

achievment:
  Claims 1st Estonian ascent since first person with Estonian citizenship (Aleksei Kovaltchuk) was Ukranian or Russian ethnically (23 Sept 96)


expid: CHOY98317
peakid: CHOY
year: 1998
route1: NW side from N (direct rte)
nation: Spain
leaders: Cesar Alvarez
sponsor: Cho Oyu 1998 - Leon
ascent1: 310
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1998-09-06
smtdate: 1998-09-27
smttime: 0745
termdate: 1998-10-01
agency: Thamserku Trekking
campsites:
  BC(06/09),ABC(09/09,5800m),C1(12/09,6400m),C1(14/09,6400m),C2(18/09,7100m),C2(20/09,7100m),Smt(27/09)

routememo:
  This expedition actually composed of five independent parties who were together to, at and back from ABC but otherwise were separate with our tents, food etc:
   
    1 Gil and Lete
    2 Alanso, Martin and Osa
    3 Fernando Fernandez and Ruiz
    4 Alvarez and Velez
    5 Felix Fernandez

  Summit party Gil and Lete were only ones to summit: they left C2 26th at 9:45 pm Nepal time, reached top at 7:45 am 27th, returned to ABC and weather changed night of 28th; bad weather set in with much snowfall, so others unable to summit.


expid: CHOY98318
peakid: CHOY
year: 1998
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Henry Todd
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Cho Oyu 98
ascent1: 309,314
countries: Austria, Ireland, USA, Yugoslavia
bcdate: 1998-09-05
smtdate: 1998-09-26
termdate: 1998-10-05
campsites: BC(05/09),ABC(07/09,5400m),C1(10/09,6100m),C2(15/09,6800m),C3(25/09,7300m),Smt(26-27/09)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Lovely weather to start in and turned bad only on 28 Sept.

  Oxygen used on 26th Sept ascent by Lapkass and Gaddard C3 to top; 27th Ferlan, Jacimovic, Gubser and Mellor from C3 to top and back to C3. Todd was in 2nd summit party but gave his oxygen to Mellor at 8000m on shoulder of mountain.


expid: CHOY98319
peakid: CHOY
year: 1998
route1: NW side from N
nation: Japan
leaders: Keitaro Morooka, Jaggi Alexander
sponsor: Independent team on Cho Oyu (on Sloezen permit)
ascent1: 306
countries: Switzerland
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1998-09-01
smtdate: 1998-09-25
smttime: 1050
termdate: 1998-10-05
campsites: BC(01/09),ABC(06/09,5600m),C1(09/09,5900m),C2(18/09,7200m),C3(24/09,7500m),Smt(25/09)
accidents: Nothing except Jaggi's fatal illness
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  This team climbed independently of US (Sloezen) expeditions whose permit they were on, from ABC to top to ABC but shared facilities at BC and ABC.

  Jaggi's death very sudden and unexpected - was found dead in tent in C2 morning of 26th with oxygen flowing. Had returned to C2 from summit extremely tired, so was using oxygen in C2 all night; cause of death not clear but 2 doctors at BC thought it probably same kind of irregularity in heart beat.


expid: CHOY98320
peakid: CHOY
year: 1998
route1: NW side (direct rte)
nation: Spain
leaders: Angel Cinca
sponsor: Cantabria 8000 to Cho Oyu
ascent1: 311
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1998-09-03
smtdate: 1998-09-27
smttime: 0845
termdate: 1998-09-30
agency: Thamserku Trekking
campsites:
  BC(03/09),ABC(07/09,5700m),C1(09/09,6400m),C2(13/09,7200m),C3(13/09,7200m),C3(26/09,7500m),Smt(27/09)

routememo:
  Summiters on top at 11:00 am Chinese time. Torraivo turned back at 7800m having not felt well previous night (night of 26th) and now not strong.


expid: CHOY98322
peakid: CHOY
year: 1998
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Ralf Dujmovits
sponsor: Amical Alpin Cho Oyu Expedition 1998
ascent1: 319
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 1998-09-20
smtdate: 1998-10-11
smttime: 1010
termdate: 1998-10-16
campsites: BC(20/09),ABC(23/09,5650m),C1(29/09,6350m),C2(04/10,7000m),C3(06/10,7400m),Smt(11/10)
accidents: Mayr frostbitten thumb
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  7th Oct Lenzen, Chuldim and Ang Phurba from C3 to 7650m but Lenzen tired (not well acclimatized) and to C2. 

  11th Oct from C2 Goering, Weiche, Mayr, Steger, Chuldim and Ang Phurba at 2:30 am NST and in C3 at 5:00 am and from C3 at 5:00-5:30 all of them plus Eberhard, Dujmovits and Nawang Thile left for top; arrived at top: Chuldim 10:10 am, Eberhard 11:47 am and Goering (who retreated briefly to C3 because of cold feet, stayed 2 hours and got to top at 1:15 pm. 

  Sherpas: 
    Chuldim
    Ang Phurba, Beding, Dolakha, 1947,
      his 1st 8000m summit (had been on 8000ers 24 times previously)
    Nawang Thile, Beding, Cho Oyu X4, Everest X2


expid: PUMO98301
peakid: PUMO
year: 1998
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Mstislav Gorbenko
sponsor: Ukrainian Himalayan Expedition Pumori-Ama Dablam 1998
ascent1: 120,121
bcdate: 1998-09-24
smtdate: 1998-10-05
smttime: 1230
termdate: 1998-10-08
othersmts: Climbed Ama Dablam (AMAD-983-01)
campsites: BC(24/09,5300m),C1(28/09,6200m),C2(04/10,6700m),Smt(05,07/10)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  BC before before normal site 
  C1 on SW Ridge's Col
  C2 just over left side of ridge.

  Technically difficult: C1 to C2 mixed snow and ice and rocks. Fixed 800m rope because bad weather prevented planned alpine style ascent. Much snow and avalanches (no one hurt by them). 5th Oct summit party left C2 6:30 am and on top 12:30 pm and slept C2 where returned 4:00 pm after 1 hour on top. 7 Oct party started 3:00 am, on top 6:00 am and down to BC same day.


expid: AMAD98301
peakid: AMAD
year: 1998
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Mstislav Gorbenko
sponsor: Ukrainian Himalayan Expedition Pumori-Ama Dablam 1998
ascent1: 241,243
bcdate: 1998-10-09
smtdate: 1998-10-13
smttime: 1300
termdate: 1998-10-16
othersmts: Climbed Pumori (PUMO-983-01)
campsites: BC(09/10,3700m),C1(12/10,5070m),Smt(13-14/10)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
primid: PUMO98301
routememo:
  On 13th Mogila from top at 1:00 pm to Deboche at 11:10 pm. 

  On 14th Kovalev left C1 5:30 am and on top 10:00 am (13th Deboche to C1). Had "beautiful" weather which enabled fast climbs. This a national team in training for Everest in 1999 from Tibet.


expid: PUMO98302
peakid: PUMO
year: 1998
route1: SE Face/Ridge-E Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Jiri Svejda
sponsor: Montana Pumori Expedition Czech Republic
ascent1: 124
bcdate: 1998-10-01
smtdate: 1998-10-11
smttime: 1330
termdate: 1998-10-12
campsites: BC(01/10,5500m),C1(03/10,5800m),C2(04/10,6100m),C3(10/10,6500m),Smt(11/10)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Langtang Ri Trekking
routememo:
  BC near small lake
  C3 at Col.

  Much snow on mountain and climb slow and difficult and complicated because of this. Summit party of 3 slept in C3 and all went to top on 11th; started from C3 5:00 am and on top 1:30 pm and 2:00 pm very slow, changing lead with deep snow to plow through. Had to make route as first people this season to top. Slept in C3 (arrived there at 4:00+ pm - fast because had fixed route). 12th to BC and Gorak Shep.


expid: PUMO98303
peakid: PUMO
year: 1998
route1: SE Face/Ridge by 2 members (to 7000m)
route2: SW Ridge by 2 other members
nation: Italy
leaders: Michele Comi
sponsor: Pumori Expedition 1998
ascent2: 125
bcdate: 1998-09-28
smtdate: 1998-10-12
smttime: 0630
termdate: 1998-10-18
accidents: Nothing
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
campsites:
  BC(28/09,5050m),ABC(05/10,5000m),ABC(12/10,5500m),xxx(12/10,7000m on SE Face), Smt(12/10 on SW Ridge)

routememo:
  BC  at Lobuche (Pyramid Research Lab)
  ABC for southeast side pair
  High point on SE Face/Ridge route.

  Comi and Magliano went up normal route on SE Face/Ridge with deposit 5800m and biv at 6250m on 11 Oct and at midnight of 11/12 Oct started for top but turned back at 7000m because impossible for 2 people to reach higher in very deep snow. 

  On 12th at 7:00 am other 2 members met them at biv in descent from summit via SW Ridge (Japanese route). Bufacchi and Passino had gone up on 10th Oct from 5500m and spent 2 nights on climb, one at 6000m at Col of ridge and other night at 6500m on SW Ridge to top on 12th about 6:30 am. All back in pyramid on 13 Oct evening. SE site too dangerous with serac threatening to break off and climbers exposed for 3 hours to this danger. 

  Passino wanted to do SW Ridge because it safer while Magliano not capable of such a technical route.


expid: PUMO98304
peakid: PUMO
year: 1998
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Theodore Kossart
sponsor: Australian-Canadian Pumori Expedition
ascent1: 122,123
countries: Canada, New Zealand
bcdate: 1998-09-18
smtdate: 1998-10-07
smttime: 1100
termdate: 1998-10-12
campsites: BC(18/09,5320m),ABC(23/09,5640m),C1(30/09,6000m),C2(06/10,6450m),Smt(07,09/10)
achievment: Variation of Japanese 1973 route
agency: Marron
routememo:
  BC southeast of normal site
  C1 below largest serac field
  C2 on SW Ridge.

  6th summit party of 3 left C2 3:30 am and on top 11:00 am, and in C2 4:30 pm and slept there. 9th party of 2 left C2 2:15 am and on top at 10:30 pm and back at C2 at 6:00 pm, tired. Moderately difficult. There was some rockfall below ABC and avalanche danger above ABC but this had no accidents.


  Hilton's White Line - Pumori 1998 by Philip Suisted

  One can search a long time for an angle on a story before finding that the answer was with you all along. Not on the tip of the tongue in this case, but rather just behind me, waiting to be discovered. Hilton's Line the working title for our token variation on the technical southwest ridge of Pumori (7161m) in the Khumbu Himal, Nepal.
     Kynan Bazley and Philip Suisted made up the New Zealand contingent of the privately funded Australian/Canadian Pumori Expedition in the post-monsoon season 1998. In early September we joined one Canadian and four Australian climbers in Kathmandu to complete preparations. Together with twelve trekkers we made our way via tea houses to Pumori BC arriving on 19 September.
     The monsoon showed no sign of relenting and in fact the weather appeared to deteriorate. Views of Pumori, Everest and the surrounding mountains were not forthcoming and it was during a rare lifting of cloud that we tentatively selected a site for Advance Base Camp on the lower limit of the snow. Our route followed a rough trail over moraine and up a talus gully to access the glacial shelf below the obvious cheval. Nestled amongst seracs at 5630m, ABC was established on 23 Sept after ferrying two loads.
     Above ABC we diverged from the norm in deciding to acess the southwest ridge at the right hand end of the cheval. The rationale being to avoid travelling and fixing rope across the top of this heavily corniced feature. The result was pleasing. By 30 Sept we had dug Camp One into a snow shelf below bluffs at 6000m. We had economised on rope and had pioneered a line of our own thinking, Hilton's Line. Hilton's White Line, to be specific, and getting whiter by the day. New snow was becoming an issue.
     Thirteen climbers from the Ukraine had now arrived on the same route necessitating a certain diplomacy and a degree of international co-operation. Thus the route was fixed through the more technical section skirting below gendarmes, up a steep mixed gully, and back onto the ridge proper. Something like 800m of rope was fixed to the point where we planned to locate Camp 2. Previous expeditions described a suitable site at 6450m, being large enough to accomodate four. The Ukraine team elected to establish their high camp on slopes at 6600m, fixing ropes to that point and leaving our site free. An arrangement we found suitable.
     Having adequately prepared the route we retired to BC for rest. While we passed the time waiting for the weather to clear, our expedition doctor guided us through the gastro-intestinal section of his anatomy handbook on a voyage of discovery into our various bits and their function. And so time passed.
     Early on 5 October Scott, Kynan, and Phil left BC for Camp One in clear, cold conditions and continued up the following day, establishing Camp 2 in preparation for the summit. After leaving this camp at 3:30 am on 7 October, we soon moved above the last of the fixed ropes then climbed separately to reach the summit at 11:00 am, returning to our camp at 4:30 pm and glad for the rest. Two days later Theo and Grass summited using an identical program.
     Of the other two climbers: Matt never made it to BC due to illness and John reached his high point at Camp One having struggled to acclimatize sufficiently. Once clear, the weather remained true to tradition and stayed clear till we left the area. To the Sherpa helpers I am grateful, the BC conditions were entirely tolerable and their company remains a highlight. And Hilton? Well, who knows.
     A successful season on Pumori once you do the sums. To my knowledge 19 climbers summited and safely returned. To be counted amongst them is indeed a triumph. But to discover Himalayan climbing as a realistic and an attainable experience is, for me, the greater success.


expid: DHA198301
peakid: DHA1
year: 1998
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Jesus Maria Aguirre
sponsor: Jolosako Expedition to Dhaulagiri
bcdate: 1998-09-05
smtdate: 1998-10-05
termdate: 1998-10-09
termnote: Abandoned at 7950m due to deep soft snow and wind
campsites: BC(05/09,4700m),ABC(10/09,5200m),C1(14/09,5800m),C2(23/09,6600m),C3(26/09,7400m),xxx(05/10,7950m)
accidents: Gonzalez bad asthma & left BC 1 Oct
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  ABC at middle of the glacier
  High point at NE Ridge.

  Started attempting on 27-28 without much progress due to bad weather and strong wind. Last attempt was on October 5. Reached the highest point and had to abandon due to meter-deep snow obstructing the route and wind.

  - Had to pitch deposit camp/ABC waiting for good weather (Japanese
    expedition also had this camp at the same site).
  - Strong wind also made difficult in making way. Every time the climbers
    had to cut the way.
  - Member Emilio Gonzalez returned from BC on October 1 due to asthma 
    (leader told me due to tobacco smoking).
  - Luis said probably next expedition will be on Annapurna.
  - Expedition leader: The name was changed in the permit as the actual
    leader (Aguirre) was not having the membership certificate of Basque
    climbing club/federation with him at the time of issuing the permit in
    Kathmandu.

  - The leader expressed satisfaction of the expedition - expedition
    members were very good, good sherpas, praised the good service
    of the handling company

  - They were trying to fly out to Lukla following days.
  - Have not decided the date of their departure from Nepal.


expid: DHA198302
peakid: DHA1
year: 1998
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Greece
leaders: Ioannis Katrivanos
sponsor: Hellenic Mountaineering Club of Athens Dhaulagiri 1998
ascent1: 103 claimed
bcdate: 1998-09-08
smtdate: 1998-10-02
termdate: 1998-10-09
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to bad snow conditions and death of Tsoupras
campsites: BC(08/09,4700m),C1(17/09,5800m),C2(19/09,6600m),C3(01/10,7550m),xxx(02/10,8100m)
accidents: Tsiantos frostbitten toe
agency: Ang Rita Treks
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at NE Col
  C2 on NE Ridge
  C3 on NE Ridge
  High point at least, perhaps summit.

  Sherpas established C3 26 Sept but did not sleep there. Summit team of Kotronaros and Tsoupras left BC on 29 Sept and slept in C1; 30th slept in C2; 1 Oct after 10 hours hard effort reached C3 - much wind and quite exhausted by deep snow. Left C3 for top on 2nd Oct at 6:00 am, quite late; Tsoupras was leading by 100m; Kotronaros not feeling up to going to summit and turned back at 7700m at about 9:00 am and back to C3; snow knee deep but visability good; very cold. Tsoupras followed standard route and was last seen at 10:00 am from C3 at about 7800m on traverse on N Face; he signaled he was Ok and going for top - seen moving slowly till 10:30 am at 7850m and then no longer visible (misty and rocks of snowfield obscured vision) to Kotronaros. At about 3:30 pm Japanese saw him just below summit and about same time leader from BC saw him only few minutes from top at bottom of summit couloir; after 4:30 pm wind strong, blowing spindrift snow. During night snowfall and wind blowing strong. Kotronaros waiting for his return. 

  5th Oct Tsiantos, Mondinelli and Spanish (Aguirre) and 2 Spanish Sherpas reached 7900m and found nothing of missing member and turned back in deep snow (Tsiantos toes frostbitten somewhat). 4th Oct Kotronaros down to base camp; Tsiantos had arrived on 3rd at C3 and spent 4th in camp waiting for other teams men to come up for summit bid and slept in C2 on 5th with others and in base camp 6th and climb finished because of death of friend. "We believe that he reached summit" - was seen by leader about 80m vertically from top and Japanese saw him "some where there" and congratulated Greek on his success. "I think he did summit very late in afternoon and maybe lost his way and slipped maybe he made a snowhole and never left it, or maybe small avalanche hit him." He had been to 7300m and last spring and now he pushed himself very hard this time "to the limit" to get the summit now. Greeks will declare on return home that he reached top.


expid: DHA198303
peakid: DHA1
year: 1998
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Eduard Abello, Joan Miquel Dalmau
sponsor: Iberplan Dhaulagiri 1998
approach: By air->Jomsom->down Kali Gandaki
bcdate: 1998-09-10
smtdate: 1998-09-19
termdate: 1998-09-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to bad weather and team not strong
campsites: BC(10/09,4600m),C1(17/09,5800m),C2(19/09,6800m),xxx(19/09,6800m)
accidents: Abello not to BC because ill; Dalmau bad knee; Bardet mild altitude problem
agency: Tip & Top Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at NE Col (by 3 members)
  C2 on NE Ridge.

  4 days snowing after arrival BC. Did not get above C2 because bad weather, couldn't go up in alpine style and didn't believe in using ropes. Other teams waiting around for someone else to fix ropes. 

  Dalmau only person to reach C2, then down because problem with knee and again bad weather. Dalmau to C1 and all to BC on 20th and Marpha 21st.


expid: DHA198304
peakid: DHA1
year: 1998
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Carlos Soria
sponsor: Penalara Spanish Expedition to Dhaulagiri
bcdate: 1998-09-04
smtdate: 1998-09-20
termdate: 1998-09-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(04/09,4700m),C1(15/09,5700m),C2(20/09,6600m),xxx(20,28/09,6600m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at NE Col
  C2 at NE Ridge below big stable serac
  High point C2.

  Icefall was difficult, a complicated icefall; much rock falling from "Eiger" at first. This team was first to open route in icefall and fixed 200m rope here (and Japanese Sherpas fixed more behind Spaniards). Never went above C2 because of bad weather with new snowfall. Stayed 8 days at C1 waiting for good weather but it did not come, so decided to abandon climb since had not time to stay away from work in Spain. Garrido and Soria to C2 on 28th to clear camps.


expid: DHA198306
peakid: DHA1
year: 1998
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Silvio Mondinelli
sponsor: Dhaulagiri Expedition
bcdate: 1998-09-19
smtdate: 1998-10-04
termdate: 1998-10-07
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to very deep snow
campsites: BC(19/09,4500m),C1(23/09,5700m),C2(28/09,6400m),C3(03/10,7500m),xxx(04/10,7900m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at NE Col
  C2 on NE Ridge
  C3 on NE Ridge
  High point at North Face below NE Ridge.

  4 Oct summit bid halted by very deep snow and returned to C1 and decided climb finished. Not difficult route.


expid: DHA198307
peakid: DHA1
year: 1998
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Tsutomu Saito
sponsor: Sapporo Dhaulagiri I Expedition
ascent1: 101
bcdate: 1998-09-06
smtdate: 1998-09-30
smttime: 1430
termdate: 1998-10-04
campsites: BC(06/09,4700m),C1(16/09,5700m),C2(23/09,6500m),C3(28/09,7300m),Smt(30/09)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at NE Col
  C2 on NE Ridge.

  29th bid made to reach summit so returned to C3 because "not good weather" (heavy snowfall) and same party tried again on 30th despite snow on mountain above knees. Left C3 at 4:00 am and on top 2:30 pm, slow because of deep snow; back in C3 5:00 pm. This only summit attack; no more because of snowfall (there were no flags at summit - which is as it should be).

  Sherpa summiters:
    Man Bahadur Gurung, 32, Sitalpati VDC, Sankhuwasabha, Dhaula summit in Sept 1994
    Tul Bahadur Tamang, 32, Deusa, VDC, 1st 8000er
    Pasang Gyalzen Sherpa, 34, Makalu VDC, Sankhuwasabha, 1st 8000er


expid: GURK98301
peakid: GURK
year: 1998
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kazuo Higuchi
sponsor: Academic Alpine Club of Hokkaido Gurkarpo Ri Expedition 1998
approach: Via Langtang Glacier
bcdate: 1998-09-26
smtdate: 1998-10-13
termnote: Abandoned at 6150m due to difficulty of route
campsites: BC(26/09,4870m),C1(03/10,5550m),C2(10/10,6100m),xxx(13/10,6150m)
accidents: 3 members temporary altitude sickness
agency: Guides For All Seasons
routememo:
  BC at glacier north of Langshisa Ri
  C1 at glacier north of Langshisa Ri
  C2 on NW Ridge.

  Fixed 500m above C2 on steep snow rock narrow NW Ridge to place 6150m where ridge ended in steep face downwards on 13 Oct, so returned C2 after trying to find way around. 14th Oct back to BC. 15-19th Oct collected ropes and tried to bring all rope but 18th blizzard and had to leave 200m fixed rope. On 12th 3 others, Kengo Kokura, Hironori Miyai and Miyuki Yoshida up to 6150m to take down ropes and clean camps.


expid: MANA98301
peakid: MANA
year: 1998
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Yoshio Maruyama
sponsor: East Japan Manaslu Expedition 1998
bcdate: 1998-09-12
smtdate: 1998-09-27
termdate: 1998-10-09
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to deep snow, lack of supplies and time
campsites: BC(12/09,5000m),C1(14/09,5900m),xxx(27/09,6800m)
agency: Rolwaling Trek
routememo:
  High point at NE Face.

  Not possible to reach C2 site at 7000m because snow too deep. Expedition abandoned climb after 27 Sept because had reached their time limit and supplies running out. For one week snow fell and avalanches threatened.


expid: MANA98302
peakid: MANA
year: 1998
route1: NW Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Yasushi Yamanoi
sponsor: Japan Manaslu Northwest Face Expedition 1998
approach: Bus->Bensishahar->Marshyangdi R->Humpuk Cave and E->BC
bcdate: 1998-09-02
smtdate: 1998-09-15
termdate: 1998-09-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to accident
campsites: BC(02/09,3750m),ABC.Depot(06/09,5500m),Biv(13/09,6000m),xxx(15/09,6200m)
accidents: Serac hit both members (Mrs. Y not seriouly hurt)
achievment: 1st attempt of NW Face
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC  north-northeast of point 3697 on Nepa Manaslu Map
  ABC depot snow plateau
  Biv on NW Face
  High point on NW Face.

  Took days to reach BC from Humpuk Cave, cutting through bamboo forest and making 2 small bridges. Only camp above BC had only depot. From there 13 Sept started up from depot for first time and put up small tent at about 4000m on NW Face. 14th night (9:00 pm) again up and at 6200m at 1:00 am 15th at small ridge when a big serac broke off higher on ridge and sent both members rolling down 100m into deep snow (Mr Yamanoi out in 5 minutes). Returned to depot. Next day Mr Yamanoi's ankle paining and later Mrs. Yamanoi had pain in several places including head (now having scan to determine degree of damage*). "This route dangerous, many seracs - maybe this route is not logical." Had seen only 2-3 pix and this face is virgin, so wanted to attempt it but not again after this. Returned to BC on 15th and climb finished. Not difficult technically.

  * later on 27 Sept 98 - scan showed no damage to head.


expid: ANN498301
peakid: ANN4
year: 1998
route1: SW Face-W Col-NW Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Jiri Novak
sponsor: Annapurna IV Expedition
countries: Slovakia
bcdate: 1998-09-29
smtdate: 1998-10-15
termdate: 1998-10-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to danger of avalanching
campsites: BC(29/09,4700m),C1(02/10,5500m),C2(15/10,6200m),xxx(15/10,6200m)
accidents: Nothing
achievment: 1st attempt this route.
agency: Everest Adventure
routememo:
  C1 at West Col
  C2 on NW Ridge
  High point on NW Ridge.

  24 Sept at low BC in Seti Khola where several small rivers join Seti Rivers at 3500m; had to find correct approach to mountain in very dangerous area of deep ravines and land slides; was ENE of Machhapuchhare. Decided not possible to climb SW Face because of danger from loose rock and ice avalanches and rock avalanches. So changed route to far left side of SW Face to West Col of Annapurnas IV (Col between Annapurna III and Annapurna IV). Went along NW Ridge to 6200m, only 1/3 of distance to summit. Cloud, wind, avalanche danger here, waited in camp one day and then down on 17th to BC. Delayed finding approach to mountain by cloud cover and could not see mountain.

  (Germans spr'76 approached Face from valley wall east of Seti and ridge between these valleys).


expid: ANN398301
peakid: ANN3
year: 1998
route1: W Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Kiyoshi Ishii
sponsor: Kintarou Alpine Club Annapurna III Expedition
approach: Modi Khola
bcdate: 1998-09-08
smtdate: 1998-09-25
termdate: 1998-10-07
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to heavy snowfall
campsites: BC(08/09,3900m),ABC(15/09,4800m),C1(23/09,5600m),C2(25/09,6300m),xxx(25/09,6300m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC  at Modi Khola west of Gundharba Chuli southwest of Tent Peak
  ABC on W Face
  C1  on W Face
  C2  on W Face
  High point at C3 on W Face.

  Snow not deep at C2 on arrival but because very deep by 26th, and Ishi went down that day and climb finished. 

  Many avalanches now and food supply exhausted because crows went inside tent 2 and took food.


expid: ANN198301
peakid: ANN1
year: 1998
route1: S Face
nation: USA
leaders: Thomas McMillan
sponsor: 1998 Annapurna South Face Expedition
bcdate: 1998-09-06
smtdate: 1998-10-17
termdate: 1998-10-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6650m due to dangerous serac fall, poor leadership, sickness
campsites: BC(06/09,4250m),C1.ABC(15/09,4900m),C2(20/09,5500m),C3(24/09,6000m),xxx(17/10,6650m)
accidents: Smith's foot broken by falling rock 18th Oct; Martin and McMillan altitude sickness
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  BC at South Annapurna Glacier
  C1 ABC at top of rognan (rock island)
  C2 on South Face
  C3 on South Face.

  C4 site reached 17 Oct but camp not established. Big snowstorm and serac avalanche plus illness slowed progress after C3 occupied. Serac avalanches destroyed C2 12 Oct, but that was about the only day it was occupied. McMillan wanted to go for top and others with him but he got sick in C3. "Between people leaving and people getting sick," climb ground to halt especially when C2 was never reestablished. McMillan was in C1 coming down to BC on 27th and then used BC for climbing trekking peaks with one trekker. He took time to make decisions and then did not stick with them; was "out of touch with reality" about an 8000er; hadn't been above about 20,000 ft before and didn't understand the process of expedition climbing. So expedition fell apart. After 19th weather was beautiful. About 10 Oct general felling was there would be no success, but some members wanted to get to their personal high points. 

  McMillan didn't care about clearing camps, so others did it. McMillan went to C3 on 25 Oct to try a solo bid for the top, but when he reached C3 had seconds thoughts about being alone on the mountain and went down. Slept in a gully above C2 at about 5600m that night and returned to BC on 27th.


expid: GANG98301
peakid: GANG
year: 1998
route1: E Ridge from S
nation: UK
leaders: Neil Hicking
sponsor: Royal Navy/Royal Marines Gangapurna Expedition
approach: Via Machhapuchare BC up river that feeds Modi Khola from east
bcdate: 1998-10-04
smtdate: 1998-10-15
termdate: 1998-10-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to heavy snowfall
othersmts: Attempted Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak)
campsites: BC(04/10,4500m),C1.ABC(06/10,4950m),C2(08/10,5350m),C3(14/10,5850m),xxx(15/10,6400m)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  BC at East Ama Dablam on bottom of southern slopes of Annapurna III
  C1 (ABC) at under south end of big rock buttress due south of mountain
  C2 just west of big rock buttress
  C3 on snow slope above and slightly to right of big buttress
  High point at bottom of head wall below col between Gangapurna and Anna III.

  Defeated by too much snow - one small avalanche affected C2. Went first to Tent Peak for acclimatization (4 people only to Tent Peak) and wouldn't do this again because it took up extra time that could have been spent on Gangapurna. Terrain above BC much jumbled rock and not easy to manage. Icefall between C1 and C2 very difficult and dangerous and required 400m fixed rope. Planned to climb head wall on 18th and summit on 20th-21st but on 17th started snowing; snowed all night and all day on 18th, with about a meter of new snow. 19th nice day, but on 18th part of C2 buried by avalanches.


expid: TILI98301
peakid: TILI
year: 1998
route1: NE Spur-N Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
sponsor: Terres d'Adventure Tilicho Expedition
ascent1: 23rd
bcdate: 1998-10-12
smtdate: 1998-10-23
smttime: 1600
termdate: 1998-10-27
campsites: BC(12/10,4950m),C1(14/10,5800m),C2(22/10,6200m),Smt(23/10)
agency: Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
routememo:
  BC near lake
  C1 at NE Spur
  C2 at junction of NE Spur and North Ridge.

  23rd left C2 at 8:00 am, a perfect day and reached top at 4:00 pm and spent one hour there and returned to C2 7:30 pm to 10:00 pm (Grobel and Bardou with one very tired member Chesnel) with head lamps. Had not planned to go to top that day but with no wind and no cloud decided at 2:00 pm at 6800m to carry on up. Fixed 1000m rope from BC to C2 but almost none above C2 (BC to C1 1/3 of route, C1 to C2 all of route). Not very difficult technically: more than Baruntse, less than Ama Dablam. Always some clouds from 8:00 am onwards.


expid: TILI98302
peakid: TILI
year: 1998
route1: NE Spur
nation: France
leaders: Michel Richard
sponsor: French Team to Tilicho
approach: Dumre->Beshishahar->Chame->Pisang
bcdate: 1998-09-20
smtdate: 1998-09-28
termdate: 1998-10-02
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to bad snow conditions and avalanche danger
campsites: BC(20/09,4900m),C1(26/09,5800m),xxx(28,30/09,6000m)
agency: Tip & Top Trekking
routememo:
  BC at north end of Tilicho Lake
  C1 at NE Spur
  High point at NE Spur.

  Frequent snowfall and rain making climb difficult and dangerous from many many avalanches. Not possible to reach site for C2 at spur's junction with North Ridge because frequent avalanching just below ridge. Had to fix rope because of snow conditions and 2 clients inexperienced.


expid: BHRI98301
peakid: BHRI
year: 1998
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Jesus Gonzalez
sponsor: Mustang Bhrikuti Peak Expedition
ascent1: 8th
approach: Luvlanthang->Yara->Bas Khola->Damodar Kund
bcdate: 1998-10-14
smtdate: 1998-10-17
smttime: 1100
termdate: 1998-10-18
campsites: BC(14/10,4900m),C1(16/10,5900m),Smt(17/10)
achievment: May have climbed (a different) virgin peak
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Damodar Kund
  C1 at NE face.

  Big question whether peak team climbed was actually Bhrikuti or nearby unnamed peak of same altitude 6310m. Maps are wrong about such basic things as Damodar Kund, where there are Hindu and Buddhist temples and helipad. On 17 Oct left C1 at 6:00 am because earlier very windy so waited for wind to drop. Reached top at 11:00 am and down to BC 6:00 to sleep. Not difficult technically except for crevasses near summit. Did not fix ropes because wanted to go to top quickly. Left BC on 18th went to Bas Khola because snow started falling and new fresh snow made Bas Khola pass dangerous for porters (steep pass and rolling stones there). Think may have climbed a virgin peak because French descriptions of their routes are not possible to climb on this mountain.


expid: SAIP98301
peakid: SAIP
year: 1998
route1: W Ridge from N
nation: Japan
leaders: Ayumi Nozawai
sponsor: Team Saipal 1998
ascent1: 7th
approach: Surkhet->Simikot->Chola
bcdate: 1998-09-14
smtdate: 1998-10-07
termdate: 1998-10-10
campsites: BC(14/09,4200m),ABC(17/09,4800m),C2(04/10,5800m),Smt(07/10)
accidents: Furya eye problem (altitude?); all 3 members slight frostbite
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC  at north end
  ABC northwest Glacier
  C2  at Col between Firnkopf and Saipal.

  20 Sept up into icefall above (and south of) NW Glacier but too dangerous (avalanche and falling rock) so turned back at about 5100m and back to C1/ABC and 21st to BC to rest. 5 days at BC waiting for good weather again (snow/rain these days). 27 Sept to another route trying to reach NE Ridge but very steep snow and rock icefall glacier below ridge and ridge very long, so abandoned this line also. 29th to BC from C1/ABC. Again bad weather and waiting for improvement. 

  3rd Oct to C1. 4th Oct up new route on east side of NW Glacier icefall and made C2 at Col between Firnkopf and Saipal on Saipal's West Ridge. 5th made attempt on summit but windy and couldn't find good route quickly and was cold and windy, so stopped 200m from top and returned to C1. 6th rest in C2. 

  7th next attempt on top (summit by only 2 members since 1 member got eye problem on 5th). Found good route up last 200m and reached summit (again wind and very cold). Slept in C2. 8th to BC.


expid: MANA98303
peakid: MANA
year: 1998
route1: NE Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Johann Ebner
sponsor: Austrian Manaslu Expedition
bcdate: 1998-10-07
smtdate: 1998-10-25
termdate: 1998-10-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to deep dangerous snow and lack of time
campsites: BC(07/10,4800m),C1(11/10,5350m),C2(13/10,6370m),xxx(25/10,6800m)
agency: Stupa View Trekkking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  High point at NE Face below plateau.

  Made deposit at 6800m in preparation for fixing ropes on 300m high steep slope leading to C3 site at 7000-7300m (had planned for camps: C3 at 7000m and C4 at 7400m). Snowstorm 15-18 Oct brought 1m new snow above 5300m bringing avalanche danger. After 18th Oct stable weather till night of 25th Oct when 1m new snow at C2, where members were staying. 26th this team and most others left C2 for BC and this team now abandoned climb because of deep snow and lack of time for waiting for new snow to settle and climbing safe. Avalanche that took away a Colombian came 3 meters from one member this group.


expid: MANA98304
peakid: MANA
year: 1998
route1: NE Face
nation: Georgia
leaders: Gia Tortladze
sponsor: Georgian Himalayan Manaslu Expedition
bcdate: 1998-09-07
smtdate: 1998-10-10
termdate: 1998-10-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to bad weather, no supplies, 2 sick and left and other tired
campsites: BC(07/09,4500m),C1(10/09,5800m),C2(10/09,6900m),xxx(10/10,7200m)
accidents: David Chantladze and Merab Nemsitsveridze had bronchitis and left early
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC slightly below other's camps
  High point at NE Face.

  Had problem to reach C2 because of big crevasse at 6400m which forced bivouacs below it till finally brought ladder from village to cross it. Made C2 at 6900m instead of intended 7000m because of wind. Whole route dangerous with lot of icefalls. Had 2 periods of waiting because of 10-day and 11-day snowstorms. Finally gave up because food and kerosene supplies finished. 

  Tried to go to top from 22 Oct from BC but got no higher than C2 by 24th and now climb ended.


expid: AMAD98302
peakid: AMAD
year: 1998
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Josef Rybicka
sponsor: Czech Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 234,235
countries: Canada, Germany, USA
bcdate: 1998-09-29
smtdate: 1998-10-09
smttime: 1100
termdate: 1998-10-11
campsites: BC(29/09,4700m),ABC(02/10,5000m),C1(05/10,5700m),C2(07/10,5900m),C3(08/10,6300m),Smt(09-10/10)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Langtang Ri Trekking
routememo:
  2 teams (on same permit) who had own food and gear but climbed together. Both summit parties went to summit from C3, reached there at about 11:00 am on their respective days and slept in C1.


expid: AMAD98303
peakid: AMAD
year: 1998
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Nikolai Kojemiako
sponsor: Extreme Peak Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 255
bcdate: 1998-10-12
smtdate: 1998-10-18
smttime: 1200
termdate: 1998-10-20
campsites: BC(12/10,4300m),C1(15/10,5800m),C1.2(17/10,6000m),Smt(18/10)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC with many other teams.

  Many ropes on mountain: "all mountain roped." 16 Oct down to BC from C1. Now many clouds and decide must go up quickly so 17th moved C1 to 6000m and all members went to summit next day: started up from 6000m at 5:30 am and arrived summit at 12:00 to 12:30 pm (first time in Himalaya for all except leader). Very cold; down from top at 1:00 pm to C1 at 7:00 pm, spent 30 minutes in Czech's C3. Very slow in last part of descent because snow falling and steep route and then dark fell; had to wait 1 hour while others moved on route. 19th to BC.


expid: AMAD98304
peakid: AMAD
year: 1998
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Werner Landry
sponsor: 1998 San Diego Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 273
countries: Canada
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1998-10-12
smtdate: 1998-10-24
termdate: 1998-10-26
campsites: BC(12/10,4540m),C1(21/10,5670m),C2(22/10,5945m),C3(23/10,6250m),Smt(24/10)
accidents: Richards had to leave on Oct 19 due to serious illness (typhoid diagnosed in Khunde)
agency: Ang Rita Treks
routememo:
  BC just above Mingbo
  C1 on SW Ridge
  C3 at Dome - below Ama Dablam.

  C1 pitched on Oct 17 and deposited load. The team did not set up other high camps. They used tents fixed by other expeditions. Same was the case for ropes.

  They had to spend night in a small tent (emergency) that was left below the tower without sleeping bags. They were suppose to reach to C2 (sleeping bags were there), but got late (after dark) to climb up as they had to wait till other climbers come down. Instead of getting back to C1, they spent night there (Landry says it was bivouac).

  Expeditions cooperated very well with each other. Trashes were collected. Everybody showed concern about it.

  Their day of summit: only two of them were on the mountain.

  Landry says that the expedition was a great trip for him. Blessed by a lama with a thread (he was wearing that around his neck) at a ceremony organized by Ang Rita Sherpa at one of the shrines before they started the expedition.

  Excellent weather. BC was colorful.


expid: AMAD98305
peakid: AMAD
year: 1998
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Eiichi Chiba
sponsor: Japan Ama Dablam Climbing Team 1998
ascent1: 244
bcdate: 1998-10-01
smtdate: 1998-10-14
smttime: 1130
termdate: 1998-10-16
campsites: BC(01/10,4600m),Biv(06/10,5500m),Biv(12/10,6100m),C3(13/10,6300m),Smt(14/10)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  No fixed camps, only one small tent which carried up as progressed. Moved up and down carrying tent with him. Dates given above are those of first times sleeping at these altitudes. 14th Oct at summit at 11:30 am and back to 6100m at 3:00 pm 15th in BC.

  Three independent teams were on same permit.


expid: AMAD98306
peakid: AMAD
year: 1998
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Tatsuo Shinohara
sponsor: Japan Ama Dablam Climbing Team
ascent1: 238
bcdate: 1998-10-01
smtdate: 1998-10-12
smttime: 1130
termdate: 1998-10-16
campsites: BC(01/10,4600m),C1(03/10,5800m),C2(12/10,6100m),C3(11/10,6300m),Smt(12/10)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Wind very strong on 12 Oct. Left C3 9:30 am; on top at 11:30 am and 12:00 and C2 5:00 pm (used Konishi C2).

  Three indepentent teams were on same permit.


expid: AMAD98307
peakid: AMAD
year: 1998
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Henry Todd
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 258,261,277,278
countries: Germany, USA
bcdate: 1998-10-15
smtdate: 1998-10-19
smttime: 1000
termdate: 1998-11-01
campsites: BC(15/10,4500m),C1(16/10,5800m),C3(18/10,6400m),Smt(19,21,27-28/10)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Were a little later than the crowd and no problems. Things "went very easily." Cut out big place for C3 ("we were prepared to work").

  Summiters of 19th Oct had been on Cho Oyu and thus were well acclimatized.


expid: AMAD98308
peakid: AMAD
year: 1998
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hirofumi Konishi
sponsor: Japan Ama Dablam Climbing Team 1998
ascent1: 240
bcdate: 1998-09-30
smtdate: 1998-10-13
smttime: 1130
termdate: 1998-10-16
campsites: BC(30/09,4600m),C1(03/10,5800m),C2(13/10,6100m),C3(12/10,6300m),Smt(13/10)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Left C3 8:30 am, on top 11:30 am and slept in C2 on descent because Doya very tired and could not reach C1, so had pitched C2 on 11 Oct for this contingency; arrived BC 14 Oct.

  Three independent teams were on same permit.


expid: AMAD98309
peakid: AMAD
year: 1998
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Latvia
leaders: Atis Plakans
sponsor: Independent climber on Ama Dablam
ascent1: 237
bcdate: 1998-09-28
smtdate: 1998-10-11
smttime: 1130
termdate: 1998-10-12
campsites: BC(28/09,4570m),C1(02/10,5640m),Smt(11/10)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 on SW Ridge.

  10 Oct from BC to C1 and 12:30 am 31 Oct left C1 with 2 Swiss and on summit 11:30 am with 2 Swiss and return C1 17:30 hours. 12th to BC and Namche. 14th to Lukla and 14th to Kathmandu.

  "I'm very happy with my first visit to Nepal and my success."


expid: AMAD98310
peakid: AMAD
year: 1998
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Robert Clark
sponsor: Cal-Co Ama Dablam 1998
ascent1: 271
bcdate: 1998-10-16
smtdate: 1998-10-23
smttime: 1315
termdate: 1998-10-25
othersmts: Island Peak
campsites: BC(16/10,4550m),ABC(17/10,5335m),C1(20/10,5670m),C2(22/10,5945m),Smt(23/10)
agency: Sherpa-Nippon
routememo:
  BC  at usual camp site
  ABC at east side of the ridge (deposit load)
  C1  on the ridge
  C2  before Grey Tower (traditional camp site).

  Normal climbing. Did not use their own ropes as there were already many ropes fixed. Reached summit all together at 1:15 pm stayed about 45 minutes.

  Mountain condition was snow/ice, perfect, excellent weather. Campsites were clean considering the number of expeditions.

  Climbing duration was reduced as they did not have to work on mountain much.

  Wedberg left BC on 25 as he has to attend some business. The team returned to Kathmandu on Nov 4. KTM departure Nov 8.


expid: AMAD98311
peakid: AMAD
year: 1998
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Tim Rippel
sponsor: Canadian Mt. Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 249,252,267
countries: UK, USA
approach: Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 1998-10-09
smtdate: 1998-10-17
smttime: 0845
termdate: 1998-10-24
campsites: ABC(09/10,5300m),C1(12/10,5700m),C2(15/10,5950m),C3(16/10,6200m),Smt(17-18,22/10)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  British were going up on 17th Oct.

  Rippel, Evanoff, Hooge, Clayton started from C3 at 6:00 am and came back to BC to sleep. Verzone and Holeczi started from C2 at 7:00 am and came back to C1 to sleep.

  Rollert started from C3 at 6:30 am and came back to C1 to sleep.

  Lutick started from C1 at 1:30 am and came back to C2 to sleep. Was going to C1 but ended up in C3 after waiting in the dark because of traffic above C2. Slept in empty tent at C2 with no foam or sleeping bag and an American camping at C2 gave him water and a radio to talk to Rippel at BC.

  Clayton and Hooge left BC on 22 Oct.

  Canadian Ama Dablam Climb: 

  Leader - Tim Rippel     - smt Oct 17 0845 from C3 [6200m]
           Craig Evanoff  -  "  Oct 17 0900 from C3 
           Bonnie Hooge   -  "  Oct 17 0915 from C3 
        
  British  Martin Clayton - smt Oct 17 1015 from C2 [5950m]
                                                     
  USA      Thai Verzone   - smt Oct 17 1300 from C2
           Steve Hollezi  - smt Oct 17 1300 from C2
           Dan Rollert    - smt Oct 18 0900 from C3
           Frank Lutick   - smt Oct 22 1400 from C1 [5700m]

  Great time and climb. Most of us got up and down before the hoards of people came and crowded the route making it slow and dangerous. 1 summiter Frank Lutick got caught up in the traffic and after his summit on his way to C1 ended up travelling in the dark; had more traffic above C2 was forced to stop at C2 to get some sleep and wait for daylight to finish descending to C1 where his camp was.

  Dates camps put in
  ABC - 5300m Oct 09th
  C1  - 5700m Oct 12th
  C2  - 5950m Oct 15th
  C3  - 6200m Oct 16th


expid: AMAD98312
peakid: AMAD
year: 1998
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Andreas Kraus
sponsor: DAV Summit Club Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 242,245
countries: Italy
bcdate: 1998-10-01
smtdate: 1998-10-13
termdate: 1998-10-17
campsites: BC(01/10,4700m),C1(06/10,5400m),C2(11/10,5600m),C3(12/10,6300m),Smt(13-14/10)
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC approx put at lower site
  C1 200 lower than normal site
  C3 at top wall.

  Pitched BC at lower altitude due to lack of enough space as the Czech expedition had occupied most of space at the normal BC areas.

  The leader and two Sherpas had to go up and down for looking campsites for four days. During those days team members were sent to Kalapattar.

  The expedition had fixed ropes starting from C1 to summit. There were other ropes fixed by the Japanese expedition.

  Member Ferdinand Stehle did not climb.

  Campsites were clean - everything was taken down despite the crowd.
   
  The weather was sunny all the time after expedition reached the BC.


expid: AMAD98313
peakid: AMAD
year: 1998
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Stephane Schaffter
sponsor: Schaffter Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 236,239
countries: France
bcdate: 1998-09-28
smtdate: 1998-10-11
smttime: 0900
termdate: 1998-10-14
campsites: BC(28/09,5650m),C1(03/10,5900m),Biv(12/10,6100m),Smt(11,13/10)
accidents: Buffoni bronchitis
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC just above Mingmo
  C1 before white tower (not tent).

  11th Oct 2 members left C1 for top at 1:00 am and were on summit at 9:00 am and back to BC same night. 

  12th Oct Kurz, Schaffter and Buffoni up from C1 to biv at 6100m that night. Buffoni bronchitis kept him at biv while Kurz and Schaffter went to top; left biv at 3:00 am and on top at 10:00 am; all three down to BC same day and climb finished.


