# exped

expid: EVER05165
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Ramesh Man Dangol
sponsor: Peace Everest Expedition 2005
approach: Lukla->Namche->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-09
smtdate: 2005-05-30
termdate: 2005-06-02
termnote: Abandoned at 8800m due to non-cooperation of Sherpa, lack of oxygen
campsites: BC(09/04,5365m),C2(14/05,6400m),C3(28/05,7300m),C4(29/05,7925m),xxx(30/05,8800m)
agency: Nomad Expeditions
routememo:
  Maskey and Dawa Sherpa (brother of Babu Chhiri) left BC on May 27 and reached C2. May 28 reached C3. May 29 both left C3 at 7:30 am arrived C4 at 3 pm. Left C4 between 11-11:30 pm, reached 8800m base of Hillary steps between 9:30-9:45 am of May 30th. At that point Dawa told her that the oxygen will not be enough to continue for summit and asked her to turn around. They had two full cylinders in stock carried by Dawa and two others. They were using one cylinder each. Maskey said they spent half an hour arguing there. She requested Dawa to continue. She started weeping. Dawa instead of encouraging her, told her that this was the point from where other non-Sherpa climbers like Timilsina and Ram Krishna turned around. Dawa also said that for a successful summit need more Sherpas. He said that from that point to summit it will take 5-6 hours. Maskey could not comprehend the reason of Dawa's negative attitude against her. She was helpless, though she was mentally and physically ready to continue her climbing. By that time wind started and snowfall. Benegas who was descending told Maskey that it will be good to turn back. Then Maskey descended to C4 and slept there. Next day to C2. And following day to BC. The expedition left BC on June 2 and arrived KTM on 5th. 

  Member Sonam Dangol climbed up to C2 on May 14. He and Maskey spent three nights in C2. Leader remained at BC.


expid: EVER05166
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Chung Ki-Bum
sponsor: 2005 Korean Everest-Lhotse Expedition for Yang Chung 100th Anniversary
approach: Lukla->Namche->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-09
smtdate: 2005-05-30
smttime: 0955
termdate: 2005-06-02
othersmts: Attempted Lhotse (LHOT-051-03)
campsites: BC(09/04,5500m),C1(15/04,5900m),C2(17/04,6200m),C3(27/04,7100m),C4(21/05,7950m),Smt(30/05)
agency: Discover Adventure
primid: LHOT05103
routememo:
  Kim Byoung-Goo got to C4 with Kim Geun-Sang on 21 May. They stayed for 2 nights but went back to BC and C2, respectively. Kim Geung-Song left BC on 29 May at 10:22 pm on a clear night. Sherpas were fixing ropes in front of them. About 40 people were on summit. He went back to C4 at about 3:30 pm and descended to BC the next day.

  Lhotse: Bang Won-Shik reached C4 at 7400m on 21 May but the weather was too bad. He did not try again due to lack of oxygen bottles. Everest was more important to expedition and they needed oxygen there.

  Nam and Park left expeditions on 18 May to go back home for work.

  Summit Sherpas:
    Nawang/Ngawang Lhakpa, 1/1/72, Chaplung, Chaurikharka-3, Solu, 1st 8000er
    Pasang Rita, 1/7/77, Namche, 1st 8000er


expid: EVER05167
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Iran
leaders: Sadegh Aghajani
sponsor: The First World Muslim Women From Islamic Republic of Iran Women Exp
bcdate: 2005-04-02
smtdate: 2005-05-30
smttime: 1025
termdate: 2005-06-03
campsites: BC(02/04),C1(19/04,6100m),C2(20/04,6400m),C3(28/05,7140m),C4(29/05,7900m),Smt(30/05)
accidents: Bahrami's cerebral infection
achievment: 1st Muslim women atop Everest
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 at West Cwm
  C3 at Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Got to C1 long after BC arrival because Icefall route not opened and puja's had to be held. After C2 established, long period of bad weather and team spent total of 13 days, tried twice to go to C3 but back down because of strong winds. 

  From C4 for top on 29 May 10:30 am, all who summited plus Miss Salmasi who turned back near the Balcony developed eye problem and back to C4. On top in two groups: one at 10:25 am and other at 11:25 am: first group to put women on top, the other group moved slowly to see whether weather could change for the worse and they might not summit but at least women got to top. All down to C4 to sleep. 31st to C2 and 1st June BC. 2nd summit group also delayed by many other teams on route at Hillary Step. 

  Bahrami was in summit team going up from C2 but returned to C2: was Ok till 31 May 6:00 am, when seemed to go into shock because of other women's success but she not with them and became unconscious; expedition doctor said probably cerebral infection: Sherpa carried her to BC on 1 and 2 June and helicopter to KTM and Norvic Hospital. She started to talk a little on 7th June.

  Oxygen: Women members from C3 to and in C4 except Keshaverz, who used it climbing to C3. Male members from C4 to top to C4.

  Sherpas: from C4 to top to C4 except Chhang Dawa, who used it from about 8500m to top to C4.

  Sherpas Summiters:
    Chhang Dawa, 30/7/82, Upper Walung, Everest X1, Makalu X1, Lhotse X1
    Lhakpa Gelu,23/6/67, Bubsa, Everest X11, Cho Oyu X1
    Lhakpa, 1960/61, Khumjung, Makalu X1, Lhotse X1
    Karma Gyalzen, Makalu-9, 4/9/83, 1st 8000er
    Dawa, 19/6/60, Mera village, Kanku-9, near Pangkongma, Solu, 1st 8000er

  9 June: Miss Sadegh: She was slightly ahead of Mrs Keshavarz, waited near summit while Keshavarz joined her and they went to top together with Sadegh's arm on Keshavarz's shoulder. They were 2nd and 3rd team members to top, Gheychisaz was just a little ahead of them.

  Why does Sadegh climb? "I love nature, I love to walk, I love to get to the top of things; I like to do my best." She does some mountain guiding in Iran but not as a job.


  From Punjabi web site:

  The Iranian expedition sent 12 members to the summit, including four Sherpas from Nepal acting as their high-altitude guides and porters.

  The first successful Iranian summiteers, according to the press statement issued by the ministry, are: the 51-year-old team leader, Alpinist Eghbal Aflaky Aghbelagh, Mahmed Shoaei, a 43-year-old engineer, Azim Ghechisaz, 24, Reza Bahadorani, a 27-year-old jewellery seller and the two women.

  Later, a second group in the team headed by Miroslav Caban succeeded in sending two more members up -- Reza Zarei Toudeshici and Jalal Cheshmeh Ghasabani.


expid: EVER05168
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Ludmila Moskaleva
sponsor: Team Everest 2005
approach: Lukla->Namche->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-01
smtdate: 2005-05-21
termdate: 2005-04-22
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to not enough rope (no fixed line)
campsites: BC(01/04,5300m),C1(08/04,6000m),C2(12/04,6400m),C3(19/04,7200m),C4(20/05,7900m),xxx(21/05,8300m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  May 20 Bondarenko, Moskaleva, Tenzing Dorje Sherpa and Phurba Sherpa left C3 at about 11 am, reached South Col between 6 pm to 6:30 pm. Two members and Tenjing Dorji left C4 at 11 pm, reached 8300m at about 4:30 am of May 21. The ropes for fixed line not enough to continue further climbing. Then turned about to C4; descended to C3 where Moskaleva reached between 2-3 pm. She slept there. Bondarenko and Sherpas descended to C2. 

  Bondarenko left BC on 22 May, arrived KTM on May 27 and left on 29th. Bondarenko was a client of Moskaleva; she was very upset about the behaviour of Bondarenko, who was always complaining about the food served to him at BC and high camps. Bondarenko also wanted his Sherpas to work as his servants and used to scold Sherpas with indecent language. Bondarenko made his Sherpa Phurba to carry more load than usual load. On the day they arrived South Col Phurba was very exhausted due to carrying more load and he could not continue climbing with Bondarenko and that made Bondarenko angry. It is true that Bondarenko was fast on the mountain because he did not carry any load. On descent from South Col Bondarenko even asked Moskaleva to bring down his stuff. He fell down while descending from 8300m to South Col. Tenzing rushed towards him and helped Bondarenko to come up. Moskaleva clipped with fix rope helped Tenzing to hold her hand, Bondarenko even did not bother to thank the Sherpa who saved his life. Although Moskaleva told him several times to clip with fix rope while climbing and descending but Bondarenko hardly listened to her. Bondarenko and Moskaleva had lots of arguments almost every day. Situation was that if Moskaleva says white, Bondarenko goes for black.


  Steven Lem (Everest South)

  Sergei thinks that he is rich and everybody he paid should work for him as his servants. Sergei always has something to complain against Sherpas, Asian Trekking, and its people with indecent language. Sergei attitude is always blaming others. Sergei had all the bad things to tell Lem about others. But he never mention a word about his fall on the mountain. Lem said, indeed, Sergei was fast on the mountain.

  Sherpa:
    Tenzing Dorje, 19/11/70, Phortse, no 8000ers

accidents:
  Bondarenko slipped in ice slope before the South Col while descending on May 21 (he was not clipped to fixed rope)


expid: EVER05169
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Manuel Sanjuan Lara
sponsor: Dream Everest Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-01
smtdate: 2005-05-21
termdate: 2005-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 8350m due to lack of fixed ropes
campsites: BC(01/04,5300m),C1(08/04,6000m),C2(12/04,6400m),C3(19/04,7300m),C4(20/05,7900m),xxx(21/05,8350m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Sanjuan Lara left C3 at 9 am on May 20, arrived C4 between 3-4 pm; left C4 at 10 pm, reached at 8350m at 5 am (about) on 21st. Not enough rope to continue, so turned back to C2. Next day BC. His Sherpa Nuru Wangchu descended from 8200m. 

  He returned to KTM on 27th morning and will leave on June 1.


expid: EVER05170
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Miroslav Caban
sponsor: Everest M. C. 2005
bcdate: 2005-04-05
smtdate: 2005-05-02
termdate: 2005-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to strong wind and very cold
campsites: BC(05/04),C1(10/04,5900m),C2(12/04,6200m),C3(01/05,7100m),xxx(02/05,7400m)
accidents: 2 chest infections and 1 incipient altitude sickness
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 at West Cwm
  High point at West Face of Lhotse.

  13 April to BC to rest. 18th BC to C2. 22nd down to BC because bad weather (morning clear, afternoon snowfall) having on one day gone to 6500m at bottom of Lhotse Face. 23-25th rested in BC. 26th April to C2. 28th took C3 gear to 6900m and left it there and returned to C2. 29th and 30 April Dvorsky and Pustal down to C2; Caban slept C3 on 1 and 2 May and all 7 to BC 3rd May. All on 4th May to Deboche to rest. 10 May to Pheriche, 11th BC. 13th May all 3 to C1. 15th to C3; 16th in C3. 17th to 7300m then back very strong wind. -35 degrees temperature so down to C2 and 18th off mountain.

  2 members left expedition 8 April, Lukas with chest infection and Vanecek starting to get bad headache from altitude; both never above BC. 

  Fukala was in C2 12-14 April then down to BC with chest infection; down on 14th to Deboche, returned BC after 4 weeks but not again above BC.


expid: EVER05171
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Josef Einwaller
sponsor: Dream Everest 2005
approach: Lukla->Namche->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-15
smtdate: 2005-05-26
termdate: 2005-05-28
termnote: Abandoned at 7350m due to windy weather
campsites: BC(15/04,5300m),C1(20/04,6100m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3(28/04,7350m),xxx(26/05,7350m)
accidents: Steger broke his left hand in Chhukung (he was crossing the river which was covered with ice)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at usual campsite
  C1 at usual campsite
  C2 at usual campsite
  C3 at usual campsite.

  Crossing the river which was covered with ice and while jumping over an ice patch, Steger fell down and broke his hand. He was evacuated by helicopter on April 10 May have left Nepal after two days.

  Einwaller, Pemba Dorje and Phurba Sherpa, left C2 on May 26 about at 6 am, reached C3 at 2 pm and slept. Waited for weather to improve in higher camp but the forecast was not good then went down to BC and waited two more days for good weather. Then gave up the climbing. 

  Einwaller arrived KTM by helicopter on 28th and will leave on 30th May.


expid: EVER05172
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Klaus Mees
sponsor: Dream Everest Expedition 2005
approach: Lukla->Namche->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-01
smtdate: 2005-05-21
termdate: 2005-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 8600m due to fatigue, cold feet, wind
campsites: BC(01/04,5350m),C1(12/04,6950m),C2(19/04,6400m),C3(02/05,7400m),C4(20/05,7900m),xxx(21/05,8600m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Mees left C3 at 9 am on May 20 for South Col where he reached at 4 pm. His Sherpa Chawang Dorje stayed in C3 because he had stomach problem. Mees left South Col at 9:30 am and reached 8600m (about) at 4 am of 21st then he realized that his feet started getting cold, was tired and same time wind started blowing. Then he turned back and reached South Col at 7:30 am. Rested there for sometime, descended to C2 where he reached at about 7 pm. There was not enough rope. While climbing Sergei Bondarenko (Russia) was ahead of him, behind him was Moskaleva and a Sherpa followed by Sanjuan Lara, Woodhouse and Maskaleva's Sherpa. 

  Mees returned to KTM on May 27 and will leave on June 3. Mees said last year he was on north side of Everest and no success. Knowing good success rate on south side last year, he came to try from south side.


expid: EVER05173
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Diego Zubani
sponsor: Everest Expedition 2005
bcdate: 2005-04-08
smtdate: 2005-05-11
termdate: 2005-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to bad weather and bad cough
campsites: BC(08/04,5350m),C1(16/04,6000m),C2(20/04,6400m),xxx(11/05,6900m)
accidents: Bad cough by Zubani
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  No C3 because snow, then wind and avalanche at C1. 10 May Zubani and Lhakpa Tshering Sherpa up to C2. 11 May for C3 but stopped at 6900m by snow and wind and down to C2 to sleep on 11 May after aborted summit push and down to BC 12 May.

  (Thus C2 10 May, high point 6900m 11 May and sleep in C2, BC 12 May).


expid: EVER05135
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Zhang Jiang-Yuan
sponsor: China Academy of Science GPS Survey Expedition
smtdate: 2005-05-22
smttime: 1100
campsites: BC(5200m),IC(5800m),ABC(6500m),C1(7028m),C3(7790m),C3(8300m),Smt(22/05)
agency: None
routememo:
  Second summit party aborted their push at 8400m because of strong winds on 23 May. 

  Original summit target date was 5 May but bad weather delayed any attempt for top.

  Successful summiters (as reported by Chinese news agencies):
    Pubo, 40
    Ngawang, 24
    Gyabu Jr (could be Gyalbu, 5/10/61)

  Expedition sponsored by China Academy of Science State Bureau of Surveying and Mapping and the Chinese government to remeasure the height of Everest. They placed a GPS on the summit.


expid: EVER05175
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Jesus Gonzalez Calleja
sponsor: Everest 2005
approach: Lukla->Namche->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-14
smtdate: 2005-05-30
smttime: 1000
campsites: BC(14/04,5300m),C1(20/05,6000m),C2(25/04,6500m),C3(05/05,7100m),C4(29/05,8000m),Smt(30/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  May 28 Gonzalez Calleja and two Sherpas left C3 at 8 am, reached C4 at 1:30 pm. May 29 started from C4 at 10 pm, summit at 10 am of 30th. Stayed about one hour on top, descended to South Col at 1:30 pm. Next day to BC. Weather on summit was clear, little windy on the summit. Minimum 25 people. While descending 2 Iranians were coming up. 

  Gonzalez Calleja returned to KTM on June 4 and will leave on 6th. Gonzalez Calleja plans to come for Lhotse next spring.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Tshering, 27/12/73, Thamiteng, Everest X1, Lhotse X1, Cho Oyu X1, K2 X1
    Tshering Wangchu, 16/3/83, Thamo, 1st 8000er


expid: EVER05176
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Bartolome (Tolo) Calafat Marcus
sponsor: Mallorca a Dalt de Tot Everest 05
approach: Lukla->Namche->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-14
smtdate: 2005-05-13
termdate: 2005-05-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7175m due to bad weather (mostly windy)
campsites: BC(14/04,5300m),C1(18/04,6100m,C2(25/04,6445m),C3(13/05,7175m),xxx(13/05,7175m)
accidents: Alvarez Rodriguez suffered from chest
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Alvarez Rodriguez had infection when he reached BC. Left BC on 22 April, hospitalized for about a week in KTM. He visited Lhasa, Pokhara, Chitwan.

  The high C3 the three members reached was in the acclimatization process. The expedition's plan was to make summti push between May 20-25, the weather forecast was not good in that period. So they gave up climbing. 

  The expedition returned to KTM on June 2 and will leave on June 5. The four Sherpas reached to South Col carrying deposit.

  Pemba Rinji: (4 or 5 times Everest summiter)
  Pasang Tharke, Pemba Nuru, Nima Sherpa (2/3 times Everest summiter)

  Sherpas
    Pasang Tharke, 23/7/71, Thami, Everest X3
    Pemba Nuru, 3/2/73, Pare Thami, Everest X2, Lhotse X1
    Pemba Rinzi, Calafat says summited Everest X4 or X5, 
      but Thamserku Trekking file says born 3/10/80, Kharikhola
    Nima Kancha, Thamserku Trekking file says born 19/7/78 (3/4/2032),
      Thami, Calafat says Everest X2 or X3


expid: EVER05177
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Carlos Pauner
sponsor: Aragon Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2005-04-17
smtdate: 2005-05-14
termdate: 2005-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(17/04),C1(20/04,6100m),C2(28/04,6400m),C3(13/05,7100m),xxx(14/05,7200m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 at West Cwm
  C3 at Lhotse Face.

  Avalanche and April buried under 2m of ice blocks C1 tent and was not replaced because team was acclimatized. 14 May 2 members and Pasang Tshering left for summit bid; stopped 100m higher because very cold and windy and down to Lobuche 16 May to wait for wind to die down and to rest. 19th to BC and wait for weather window which never came, so abandoned climb. No chance of success without oxygen.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Tshering (Thamo, Everest X1, Lhotse X1, K2 X1 and Cho Oyu)


expid: EVER05178
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Martin Feichtmeir
sponsor: Semi-independent climber on Everest
bcdate: 2005-04-12
smtdate: 2005-04-27
termdate: 2005-04-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7150m due to bad weather and lack of time
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (9 April)
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),C1(18/04,6100m),C2(25/04,6400m),xxx(27/04,7150m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Climbed with father Einwaller and his 2 Sherpas down to BC 20 April and 25 April to C1 and C2. To C3 on 27th but 200m below C2 started snowing and back down to C2. Wanted to go to Col but weather forecast not good, so back to BC on 29th and climb finished. No new ropes fixed yet to Col.


expid: EVER05179
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Olaf Rieck
sponsor: Leipzig Goes to Everest
approach: Lukla->Island Peak->Ever BC
bcdate: 2005-04-21
smtdate: 2005-05-14
termdate: 2005-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to bad weather forecast
campsites: BC(21/04,5500m),C1(27/04,6200m),C2(28/04,6500m),C3(03/05,7300m),xxx(14/05,7500m)
agency: Multi Adventure
routememo:
  High point at Yellow Band.

  Rieck reached C3 on 21 May (his highest point) together with Tuerpe. The team decided to turn around due to bad weather and bad weather forecast. Odrich's highest point was C1 on 30 April.

  Sherpas:
    Kami Singhi Tamang, 1/5/2034 (17/8/77), Ramche-4, Rasuwa
    Lhakpa Gelu, 1977, Tamduk, Solu, Everest X1
    Dawa Tshering, 19/11/66, Thami, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X2
    Nuru Chhiri, 26/4/70, Chiringkharka, Solu, Lhotse X1


expid: EVER05180
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Mark Whetu
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Everest Expedition 2005
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 2005-04-07
smtdate: 2005-04-17
termdate: 2005-05-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(07/04),C1(12/04,6100m),C2(15/04,6400m),C3(17/04,7400m),xxx(17/04,7400m)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  High point at C3.

  19 April down to C2, 21st down to C1 (Whetu and Bach) and others to BC. All in BC 22nd and Bach discovered big toes frostbitten, was put on oxygen and down to Lobuche by all members; Bach to be helicoptered to KTM for medical attention and all other members with him to KTM for rest; others back to Lobuche by helicopter 2 or 3 May and BC same day. Now bad weather; either strong winds or snowfall. Now Swiss acted independently to test their acclimatization and carry up gear but no one went above C2.

  Hefti and Reichen decided 22 May to abandon climb because would have cost more money since contract with Himalayan Experience ended 3rd May, and in addition Reichen had persistent cough. Binsack finally decided 28 May to give up. Bach had paid for other members to come on climb to 31 May; Hefti and Reichen had left BC 25 May. 

  All 5 Sherpas had stocked C4 at South Col in last week of April but no one ever occupied the camp.

  Climbing Sherpas:
    Lobsang Temba, Khumjung, 23/5/68, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X6
    Lhakpa Thundu, Khumjung, 29/11/63, Everest X1
    Pemba Tshering, Khumjung, 18/4/79, no 8000ers
    Phur Temba, Thami, 20/3/70, no 8000ers
    Mingma Nuru, Thami, 30/12/74, no 8000ers


expid: EVER05181
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Jorge Verdeguer
sponsor: Undewerdao Politechica de Valencia al Everest 2005
approach: Lukla->Namche->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-17
smtdate: 2005-06-02
termdate: 2005-06-05
termnote: Abandoned at 8200m due to oxygen supply system not operating properly
campsites: BC(17/04,5300m),C1(22/04,6100m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(29/04,7150m),C4(01/06,7980m),xxx(02/06,8200m)
accidents: Frostbite of two fingers of right hand of Pema Sherpa at C3 (left for home)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 at usual campsite
  C2 at usual campsite
  C3 at usual campsite
  C4 at South Col.

  May 28 Haya, Rosa, Verdeguer, Lhakpa Nuru and Sirdar Nawang Thilen Sherpa from BC to C2. C2 to C3 on 30th all members and two Sherpas. C3 to C4 on 31st all members and Lhakpa Sherpa. On June 1, Haya, Rosa, Verdeguer and Lhakpa left C4 at 10 pm all together. Rosa turned around from the first slope above C4 due to problem in oxygen supply system. Verdeguer turned back from 8100m (about) due to oxygen problem. Haya and Lhakpa together reached up to 8200m. Haya's oxygen supply problem started there. Lhakpa gave him his oxygen (Russian) which work well but Lhakpa suggested Haya not to continue climbing alone. Then both of them turned back to C4. Ahead of them were Brazilians, Koreans, Singaporeans and another group was behind them. 

  The expedition team checked oxygen system at C2 and it was working, but above 8000m. None of the cylinders worked; it was British made. All slept at C4 June 2. Next day to C2. The weather was windy but the temperatures was Ok. The team arrived KTM on June 7 and will leave on 12th.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa, 25/9/72, Yilajung, Everest X4
    Nawang Thilen (sirdar)
    Pema


expid: EVER05182
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Steven Lem
sponsor: Dream Everest 2005
approach: Lukla->Namche->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-12
smtdate: 2005-05-21
termdate: 2005-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to bad weather (high winds)
campsites: BC(12/04),C1(18/04,6000m),C2(19/04,6500m),C3(27/04,7300m),xxx(21/05,7300m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at usual campsite
  C1 at usual campsite
  C2 at usual campsite
  C3 at usual campsite.

  Lem, Pasang Tendi and Pasang Sherpa left BC on May 19 and slept in C2. May 20 arrived in C3. On the morning of May 21, they were told not to continue for C4 by one of the Sherpas belonging to Asian Trek team as the wind situation in high camp was still not good, so they waited till 22nd. Then descended to BC on 23rd. 

  Lem had talk with his wife (in USA) and told her he wants to wait for second try; except for weather everything was good for him - enough oxygen, good Sherpas and himself too was in good shape. But his wife did not approve for second attempt. Lem returned to KTM on May 28 and will leave on 30th.


expid: EVER05183
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Keith Woodhouse
sponsor: Dream Everest Expedition
countries: Germany
approach: Khumjung
bcdate: 2005-03-31
smtdate: 2005-05-21
termdate: 2005-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 8400m due to faulty oxygen system
campsites: BC(31/03,5350m),C1(10/04,6050m),C2(14/04,6450m),C3(25/04,7270m),C4(20/05,7900m),xxx(21/05,8400m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at usual campsite
  ABC at usaul campsite
  C1  at usual campsite
  C2  at usual campsite
  C3  at usual campsite
  C4  at South Col.

  On May 20 Woodhouse and Lhakpa Sherpa left C4 at 10 pm, reached at about 8400m at 4 am of 21st. Woodhouse realized that the oxygen supply system not working properly. His headlamp stopped working and he felt very tired probably due to oxygen supply system which was not working properly. Then started strong wind and decided to turn about. Reached South Col about 6 am, rested for about 2 hours, then to C2. Next day to BC. When they started weather condition was good, clear sky, moon was there. Along the trail there was fresh snow, about 30 cm on the way up from South Col. 

  Dirk Stephan, another member suffered from diarrhea while going up to C2 then he left BC. His highest point was C3. Stephan arrived KTM on 28 April and left the country on 29th.


expid: EVER05184
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Gabriel Filippi
sponsor: Independent climber on Everest
bcdate: 2005-03-30
smtdate: 2005-05-30
smttime: 0940
termdate: 2005-06-02
campsites: BC(30/03),C1(13/04,6000m),C2(16/04,6400m),C3(28/05,7300m),C4(29/05,7900m),Smt(30/05)
agency: Nomad Expeditions
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 at West Cwm
  C3 at Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Acclimatized climbing to 7000m 16 May then down to rest and met his trekking wife below Thyangboche and returned BC 10 May. Then bad weather mostly windy. Left 25 May from BC in summit push with Lhakpa Nuru to C2 and established C3 on 28th, C4 on 29th. At 22:40 hours both left C4 for top and on top at 9:40 am of 30th. Waited during ascent below balcony, below South Summit and below Hillary Step (nearly 1 hour below balcony and half hour other place). On top clouds were moving in and wind starting up. Returned to C4 at 1:00 pm to stay that night. C2 on 31st and BC 1st June. 

  Fillipi used oxygen from C3 to top and return C4 (but not in C4 on descent) but again in C2 in afternoon. Lhakpa Nuru used oxygen in C2 to top to and in C4.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Nuru, 25/9/72, Yilajung, Everest X4


expid: EVER05185
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Kenton Cool
sponsor: Jagged Globe Nepal Everest Expedition 2005
countries: Australia, Canada, Norway
approach: Lukla->Namche->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-07
smtdate: 2005-05-31
smttime: 0550
campsites: BC(09/04,5250m),C1(15/04,6100m),C2(20/04,6300m),C3(28/04,7150m),C4(30/05,7950m),Smt(31/05)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  On May 30, Cool, Farr, Linsdell, Taylor and Tryti along with Tendu Sherpa, Tamding Sherpa, Pemba Nuru, Pema Chhiring and Pema Tshering (kitchen boy) left C3 for C4. At 10:30 pm left C4 for summit, five members and five Sherpas. Tendu Sherpa had to turn back from just above C4 due to chest infection. Tryti and Tamding turned around from South Summit because Tyyti was tired and going very slow. Cool on top at 5:50 am of 31st, stayed on summit about 30 minutes, then came Apa Sherpa. Rest of the climbers behind them. Weather on summit was just windy. Cool went down to C2. Taylor and Pema Nurbu summited at 9:45 am. Farr, Linsdell, Pema Chhiring Sherpa and Pema Tshering Sherpa (kitchen boy) summited at 10:15 am. All of them returned to C4 between 3:30 to 4 pm. Next day BC .

  Jakobczyk left BC on May 31; he climbed up to C3 on April 28. He had to go home because it was too long for him to wait for weather to improve.

  Linsdell, Taylor and Tryti left BC on June 3, and Farr and Cool left BC on 4th. The team return to KTM on June 7 and will leave on 11th.

  Summit Sherpas:
    Pemba Nuru, 22/7/80, Beding, Everest X3
    Pema Chhiring/Chhiri, 17/12/83, Beding, Everest X2, Lhotse X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Pema Tshering/Pema Chhiri, 14/2/80 according to citizenship certificates, 
      but 16/12/80 according to him, Chanku VDC, Dolakha, 1st 8000er

accidents:
  A falling stone hit right side forehead of Cool above C4 on May 30 while ascending (got to summit and went down to C2 where his wounds were treated with 6 stitches)


expid: EVER05186
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Sean Egan
sponsor: Kanatek to Everest
approach: Lukla->Namche->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-08
smtdate: 2005-04-24
termdate: 2005-05-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to death of a leader at Dhugla
campsites: BC(08/04,5319m),C1(15/04,6000m),xxx(24/04,6000m)
agency: Mountain Madness
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 at usual campsite
  High point at C1.

  Death probably due to cardic arrest while returning to BC from C1 25 April for second time. Egan suffered from acid reflex and also had minor chest infection. On April 27 Egan left BC with Lhakpa Sherpa around 10:00 hours for Pheriche for treatment as advised by HRA doctor at BC. Egan spent night in Gorak Shep. On 28th, when Egan reached Dughla (first village after Gorak Shep) he had respiratory problem and weakened legs which he told to Mah over phone at around 10:00 hours. Egan asked Mah to arrange for helicopter for him to airlift to KTM. Kili of Mountain Madness in KTM was requested to arrange to send helicopter for Egan. The helicopter arrived to Dughla from Lukla around 11:00 hours. Egan was administered oxygen in Dughla while waiting for helicopter. Around 12:00 hours Mah in BC got a call from one of the BC managers of Research expedition from Lukla and informed about the passing away of Egan. Mah and other members believe Egan passed away in helicopter due to cardiac arrest.

  Egan was the only climbing member to attempt Everest summit out of the 17 members Canadian Kanatek Expedition to Everest south side with multiple research objectives. Another member of the expedition Mah is BC Manager under Nuptse permit who was suppose to climb with Egan up to Lhotse base or the minimum to C2.


  Canadian Tragedy:

  Dr. Sean Egan
  Update: Friday 29th April Everest BC (EST is 9 hours 45 mins behind Nepal)
  Diary by Harold Mah

  Sean called me this morning from Dughla and told me that he didn't feel well enough to hike back to Pheriche. After discussing it for a while I arranged for the helicopter to come and collect him and fly him all the way to KTM. Our thinking was that after a few days rest and medical attention Sean would come to BC and be ready to reacclimatise. I joked with him about being lazy and not being bothered to walk down the mountain. He laughed and joked back. "Dont be silly, nothing's going to happen to me. Just tell everyone that I love them." We laughed and that was the last time we spoke.

  I put the phone down and carried on with my chores. A little later the phone rang and one of the Sherpas picked it up. I knew immediately, from the look on the Sherpas faces, that something very bad had happened. He looked at me and just said, "Sean is dead."

  Apparently Sean had collapsed as the helicopter arrived, probably from a cardiac arrest. They carried out CPR on him but it was no good. The helicopter carried him to Lukla where he was officially pronounced dead and then on to KTM where his body now rests. I have been dealing with the Canadian Embassy in KTM which has been great - absolutely amazing.

  Everyone cried. Sherpas cried; climbers cried, I cried. How could this man who was so strong, die so quickly?

  This afternoon, as the flags at BC fluttered quietly in the breeze, we knew Sean was with us in spirit. It was the first sunny afternoon in I don't know how long and the beer we opened to toast his memory didn't froth over for the first time ever.

  BC is very quiet, very sad and very lonely. We are all in disbelief. People normally get better as they go down the mountain, not worse. Climbers sometimes die on the mountain, not coming down from BC. Our friend, Gabriel Fillipi, has announced that he is coming off the mountain to be with us and one of the other climbing teams said they'd come with Gabriel and help him throught the Khumbu Ice Fall. A team that is hoping to summit Everest in late May dropped by and are taking a small passport of Sean to the top and will bury his picture there. People's kindness has been very touching.

  They are planning a puja to bless everyone on the mountain because climbers and Sherpas are very superstitious and everyone is shocked that the accident happened before anyone has even summited.


expid: EVER05187
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Brazil
leaders: Waldemar Niclevicz
sponsor: 10 years Brazilian Conquest
approach: Lukla->Mera Peak->Mera La->Amphu Laptsa
bcdate: 2005-04-11
smtdate: 2005-06-02
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2005-06-05
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak (4 April)
campsites: BC(11/04,5500m),C1(14/04,6100m),C2(15/04,6400m),C3(28/04,7300m),C4(01/06,8000m),Smt(02/06)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Oxygen used from 8000m (slept with oxygen at C4) down to C3. Team left 10 pm on 1 June. There were 7 other climbers on summit when they arrived [10 am]. They met Victor Negrete from Brazil at 11:15 who climbed from North. They spent 2 hours on summit. They descended to C2. They arrived at 8 pm. They were slow as they had problems with the oxygen masks and Niclevicz had problems with left eye (foggy vision) which started at South Col on way up. The weather on summit day was clear but very windy.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Gyalzen Sherpa, Beding, (Pemba's brother)
    Pemba Chhoti Sherpa, Beding, 27/1/81
      (Everest South 2003, Everest North 2004, Xixabangma 2001)


expid: EVER05188
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Gavin Bate
sponsor: Moving Mountains to Everest
approach: Lukla->Island Peak->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2005-04-23
smtdate: 2005-05-30
termdate: 2005-06-01
termnote: Abandoned at 8760m due to Ang Nima sickness and bottleneck at Hillary Step
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(23/04,5160m),TempBC(26/04,5500m),C2(05/05,7100m),xxx(30/05,8760m)
accidents: Nima had food poisoning
agency: High Country Trekking
routememo:
  Bate used Gorak Shep as BC and only had one camp. He left C2 on 29 May 09:00 am. He arrived C4 (8000m) at 16:00. He and Nima rested in a Japanese tent till 21:30 and got to high point at 6:30 am. They descended to C2 at 15:00. Next day to Gorak Shep.

  Sherpa:
    Ang Nima Sherpa from Kharikhola, Solu (Cho Oyu, Xixabangma)


  Summitting Everest, by Gavin Bate (August 2005)
  (submitted by email from Kenneth Bate, Gavin's uncle)

  The sun crept slowly over the Nuptse ridge casting long fingers of yellowish light down the Western Cwm. Far below amongst the huge seracs and ice falls of the Khumbu Glacier a lithe figure leapt amongst the massive boulders in pure alpine style like a chamois goat. Highly visible in his fluorescent green replica Berghaus anorak (Marks & Spencers, Coleraine High Street) and his tiny red Tiso panties Gavin Bate was clearly visible against the snowy vastness of Everest's southern slopes. Carrying only a 2-ounce ultra-lightweight rucksack in which was his favourite bottle of Irish Blarney water and the indispensable NASA Intergalactic Extra Terrestrial Satellite phone (2 channels & on/off switch) ensuring he could radio back every spine chilling minute of his momentous climb to his millions of fans worldwide (Chris Lickspittle, Andy McNab, etc.).

  Gavin glanced down the ice fall to the far distance where the gaily coloured tents of Base Camp were clustered. His lip curled disdainfully - those fat cat wankers with their $65,000 buying their way up Everest, slugging whisky and watching porno DVD's. What did they know about mountaineering. The mental approach, the purity of spirit, the humility the whole fokkin concept - wankers! He reflected briefly back to 2000 when he was also one of them - a wanker!! How pleased he was now to have realized that he - Gav - was so totally different to all that Base Camp trash.

  Scrambling behind Gavin was his Sherpa, Angdog Innitforthemoney! Although Gav had advised the world that this was to be the very first totally solo attempt he needed Angdog to take that vital photograph when Gav would stand triumphantly on top of Everest and it would be flashed over the wire services appearing on the front pages of the world's prominent newspapers (Coleraine Times, Ballaghenny Courier, etc.).

  Solo without oxygen. That was the goal! To the top of the world without breathing and without stopping - alpine style, goat style, leaping, hopping, jumping anyway but not the way those wankers at base Camp were doing it. No way. Thanks to Gav's unbelievable lung capacity and unique metabolism (Thanks Mum & Dad!) this would be a world first. Then the Barringtons, the Barrys, the Hinkes & the Falveys would really have to eat shit. Pausing just briefly to take out his latest Wilbur Smith to check his next move Gav strode on.

  Within minutes, and breaking all known records in the Guinness Book of Records Gav and the faithful Angdog had arrived at the bottom of the Hillary Step - an awesome vertical rock face of at least 150 feet, its wall pitted with steps, ladders, handholds, rest stops. Happy Eaters. This was the final obstacle before he achieved his goal - but what was this? What were all these Base Camp wankers doing here, jesting and skylarking as they playfully queued for the next escalator - his face blanched - no way could he stand with these tosspots and wait meekly in line just like one of them. But did it matter - by now he was only 2765 inches from the summit so what the hell - he had as good as done it, but may be not, maybe someone might notice that he failed to conquer those final inches - he had to find a way out which would maintain his supreme position as the Great Leader but at the same time provide a valid excuse for turning back those last few inches which would be accepted unequivocally by his millions of fans world wide (Chris Lickspittle, Andy McNab -that's enough Ed.) He glanced round & quickly took a slug of Blarney water - there was Angdog his loyal Sherpa still faithfully clutching the vital Minox Digital 88 pixels camera (Currys, 8 pounds 99), but retching violently from altitude sickness at the side of the track. That was it. Of course! He, Gav, the world's almost only Seasoned Accomplished Renowned (for further expressions see Roget Thesaurus p. 265) mountaineer would make the supreme sacrifice. He would jeopardize the whole trip for the sake of his beloved and faithful Angdog who was now patently unable to climb further. What would the mountaineering world say. What courage, what selflessness. Already he could see the headlines emblazoned across the great climbing magazines (Walking World, 8 Bogstandard Road, Dooblin circulation 18 - on a good day!).

  As Gavin turned to go down 106 happy wankers strolled casually to the summit of the worlds highest mountain!!

  But Gav didn't mind. Far better to sacrifice a successful summit than commit the heinous mountaineering crime of all times - to leave the loyal Angdog - and anyway, according to Gav's solar Public Relations calculator (Xmas cracker 1995) there would be much greater publicity mileage in this heroic act than all that silly nonsense of climbing solo without oxygen.
   
  And how right he was - arriving at Base Camp he was immediately surrounded by ecstatic Sherpas who for the life of them hadn't the faintest idea why Gav should want to set up his Base Camp in a field of yak shit 2 miles away rather than enjoy all the pleasures and facilities of the usual Base Camp. Consequently all the Sherpas jointly decided to award Gav a special order and named him therefore Ang Gav Chumpolange which is Nepalese for "What a prat."

  Eventually Gav arrived back at his Myrtledene Road emporium (rental courtesy Mrs. Lickspittle) and mused on his latest venture. Yes - he had failed - but so what. He failed in 2000 and again in 2002 - at least he was consistent. But already his mind was on yet another unique world capturing project - leafing rapidly though 27 Wilbur Smith books he at last struck on a brilliant theme for his next daring event. Gav, The Great Leader, Accomplished Writer, Explorer, Photographer (I already said that's enough Ed.) would actually attempt to climb up the North side of Everest, have a drink of Blarney Water on the summit and then run down the South side - alpine style of course and solo and without oxygen. Fantastic - this would be a first in British climbing - he switched on his computer - I must tell the world he thought!!


expid: EVER05189
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Michael Roberts
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Everest Expedition 2005
countries: Australia, Canada, S Africa, UK, USA
bcdate: 2005-04-10
smtdate: 2005-05-16
termdate: 2005-05-31
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to unstable weather
campsites: BC(10/04),C1(25/04,6000m),C2(28/04,6400m),C3(15/05,7400m),xxx(16/05,7500m)
accidents: Sandling twisted knee in Icefall
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefal
  C2 at West Cwm
  C3 at Lhotse Face
  High point at Lhotse Face.

  We pulled out - it was the reminiscent of K9 with intermittent weather, Icefall started to meet, CSPCC said Icefall route to be closed on the 3rd (of June), also there was a line (of climbers) from bottom of Lhotse Face practically to South Col (arrived 26 May) everyone waiting in C2 to go up, so any significant drop in weather would mean a bad distraction. Slow to occupy C1 because we had a group of trekkers to BC, they were sick so members got sick (bronchitis). 16 May 9 members up to 7500m for acclimatization and down to C2 and BC 17 May. Back up from BC to C1 on 25th and C2 on 26th. Stayed waiting for better weather, so crowded and other factors (see above) so decided to pull out on 29th, down to BC 30th and left by helicopter to KTM on 31st (except Roberts, who follows with baggage). 

  Five Sherpas, Ang Dorje (sirdar), Chuldim, Pasang, Nuru Gyalzen and Phu Tashi reached South Col and stocked camp there on five days starting on 4 May, but camp not occupied.

  Sandling twisted her knee on 10 May in Icefall but did not leave expedition, since her husband, Follows was still climbing; she stayed at BC.

  Those who did leave early:

  Buck had planned to make a south-north traverse of Everest and had permission to do so, but decided to go to Tibet to see north side, left in helicopter 23 May to KTM, went by road to Kodari and North side ABC. (Bucks summited on 5 June with Brice's expedition.)

  Gosens, after 2 hours in Icefall, left expedition 26 April, frightened by Icefall and distracted by telephone conversations with home about wife's illness.

  McDonald left after high point; left about 17 May.


expid: EVER05190
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Henry Todd
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Everest and Lhotse Expedition
countries: Australia, Hungary, USA
bcdate: 2005-04-10
smtdate: 2005-06-05
termdate: 2005-06-07
termnote: Abandoned at 8500m due to bad weather forecast and fierce winds
othersmts: Attempted Lhotse (LHOT-051-04)
campsites: BC(10/04),C1(14/04,6000m),C2(17/04,6400m),C3(19/05,7300m),C4(04/06,7900m),xxx(05/06,8500m)
accidents: Only fatal episode
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  1st summit party of Calder, Casserley, George and Holland planned to leave C3 20th May for C4, Sherpas to join them from C2, but never moved above C4 because weather forecast predicted strong wind, so instead went down to C2 and BC on 21st. 

  Next party left C4 for top on 4th June: all members (except David and Todd) plus Sherpas Pasang Dawa, Gurmin Dorje, Lhakpa Thudu, Fura Sonam, Dawa Nuru, Tapche Bhote and Chewang Dorje left C4 at 10:30 pm on 4th. At 2:30 am of 5th the Balcony reached by Calder, Birrer, Holland, Casserley, Klein, George, Gurmin Dorje, Lhakpa Thudu and one Sherpa and waited there for other Sherpas to come up to them with the oxygen supplies they would need for safe round trip to top and back to C4. Parfet not feeling well and turned back to C4 from about 8400m. Davey and Milne reached 8200m, where Milne who suddenly dropped dead (presumably heart attack) at 2:30 am. Other Sherpas were busy trying to revive Milne, which was why they had not joined Calder, et al. There was no sign of life in Milne; his body left near trail covered with stones. Now very suddenly black clouds moved in, wind became very strong and it got very much colder, so all at Balcony turned down to C4 and on down to C2 same day. Climb now finished because weather forecasts were for more bad weather.

  Weather forecasts in May and early June proved quite wrong and Todd plans to try to find out why.

  Oxygen: all members from C3 to high points to wherever their supplies ran out in descent; Sherpas in C4 to high points to C4.

  Sherpas to the Balcony on Everest:
    Gurmin Dorje, 23/3/76, Pangboche, Everest X3
    Lhakpa Thudu, 20/5/70, Pangboche, Everest X2, Annapurna X1
    Dawa Nuru, 28 years, Pangboche, no 8000ers
    Chewang Dorje, Pangboche, 23 years, no 8000ers
    Fura Sonam, 35, Pangboche, no 8000ers (brother of Lhakpa Thudu)
    Tapche Bhote, 25 years, Hatiya, Makalu VDC, no 8000ers 
      (not man with same name from same village who summited Cho Oyu in 2003)

  Other Sherpas:
    Pasang Dawa, Pangboche

  Lhotse bid:

  Only one attempt was made to reach Lhotse's top. Claire David and Pemba Tshering made their C4 on 4 June at 7600m, having climbed there from C3 at 7300m up Lhotse's West Face; got to about 8000m and then the wind and cold and black clouds sent them down to C2. 

  David used oxygen from C4 to 8000m, Pemba Tshering used none.

  Sherpas to Lhotse:
    Pemba Tshering, 1965, Pangboche, Everest X2, Lhotse X1


expid: EVER05191
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Willi Prittie
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Everest Expedition 2005
countries: Ecuador, Jordan, Mexico, S Africa, UK
bcdate: 2005-04-09
smtdate: 2005-05-20
smttime: 1135
termdate: 2005-06-05
campsites: BC(09/04,5350m),C1(18/04,6100m),C2(20/04,6500m),C3(01/05,7200m),C4(29/05,7900m),Smt(30/05,02/06)
accidents: Stawiecki bad asthma; Tejas lung infection; Mahmound bleeding stomach ulcer
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 at West Cwm
  C3 at Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  1st summit party left C4 at 11:15 pm 29 May and all reached summit at 11:35 am and all to C4 to stay at 4:00 pm. Next summit party left C4 at 9:30 pm on 1 June, earlier because worried about strong winds starting, on top 7:30 to 8:50 am, back to C4 at 11:25 am to 1:50 pm to sleep. 

  C1 totally destroyed by avalanche 4 May (ice blocks and boulders from top of West Shoulder).

  Oxygen used: all Sherpas and summiters in C4 except Tejas, used it on descent to BC because of lung infection.

  Stawiecki left expedition 5 May because of bad asthma attack at 6810m.
  Clark, Farb and Grant left 29 May to return to work.
  Strange left 23 May for family reasons.
  Mahmound left 30 May with bleeding stomach ulcer.
  Groninger also left on 30th May because not strong enough.

  Sherpa summiters - 30 May:
    Kami Rita, aka "Topke", 17/01/70, Thami, Everest X8, Cho Oyu X2
    Chuwang Nima, 20/8/67, Phurte, Everest X11, Cho Oyu X2

  Sherpa summiters - 2 June:
    Lhakpa Rita, 9/9/66, Thami, now Seattle, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X4
    Mingma Chhiri, 22/7/68, Thami, Everest X6
    Kami Rita, 25/8/60, Thami, Everest X3
    Tsheri, 31/5/73, Thami/Yilajung, Everest X1
    Nima Nuru, Thami/Theso, 6/11/81, Everest X3
    Tshering Dorje, Kharikhola, 20/7/70, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X2


expid: EVER05192
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Jim Williams
sponsor: Exploradus Everest Expedition 2005
countries: Canada
bcdate: 2005-04-11
smtdate: 2005-06-02
smttime: 0500
termdate: 2005-06-04
campsites: BC(11/04),C1(18/04,6085m),C2(19/04,6380m),C3(30/04,7330m),C4(30/05,7900m),Smt(02/06)
accidents: Nothing, not even stomach trouble
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 at West Cwm
  C3 at Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Summit party of Grubb, Mueller, Tokarska and 4 Sherpas left 8:30-9:00 pm from South Col of 1 June. Grubb turned back at about 8000m at 10:00 pm because cold feet, had problems with oxygen mask and unable to keep up with the group so down to C4 with Nima Tashi. Others to top: Nima Tashi at 5:00 am, Pemba Temba at 5:00 am, Tokarska at 5:15 am with Nima Tashi again (Nima Tashi from bottom of Hillary Step 2nd time); Mueller at 9:45 am with Lhakpa Gelje,  Pasang Yila at 9:00 am; all down to C4. 

  Oxygen: members in C3 to high points to and in C4 to C3; Sherpas in C4 to high points to C4.

  Sherpa summiters: 
    Nima Tashi, 4/4/60, Pangboche, Everest X6
    Pemba Temba, 20/8/65, Pangboche, Everest X2
    Lhakpa Gelje, 25/1/72, Tapting, Everest X1
    Pasang Yila, 1978, Pangboche, Everest X1


expid: EVER05196
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Daniel Smith
sponsor: Climbing for a Cure to Everest
approach: Lukla->Namche->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-09
smtdate: 2005-05-31
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2005-05-24
campsites: BC(09/04,5334m),C1(17/04,5883m),C2(18/04,6492m),C3(28/04,7254m),C4(30/05,7925m),Smt(31/05)
achievment: Apa Sherpa's 15th ascent of Everest
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Left BC -  May 24 - Huss and Smith
             June 2 - Chang
             June 4 - Gray and Stout
             
  May 30 Chang and Gray left C3 at about 6 am, arrived C4 at 1 pm. Sherpas came from C2 and passed the members on the way up to C4. Members and Sherpas left C4 at 9 pm. Apa Sherpa summited at 6:30 am of May 31, Gray and Dawa Sherpa summited at 7 am, Chang and Ang Pasang summited at 8:30 am. Apa and Gray spent about 15 minutes on the summit. Chang and Ang Pasang spent about 10 minutes on the summit, Chang and Ang Pasang arrived at South Col at 4 pm. Slept all except Apa South Col. Next day to C1. Weather was windy while ascending.

  Chang left BC on June 2, arrived KTM on June 3 by helicopter. Chang was treated at CWIC Clinic. Gray and Stout will arrive KTM on June 6 and will leave on 10.

  Note: Chang, Gray and Stout arrived at BC on April 8, Smith on 13 and Huss on 14th.

  Dawa Nuru Sherpa Thame had summited 3 or 4 times and Ang Pasang too had summited Everest 4 or 5 times - he is also from Thame. Pasang Tendu turned around from Balcony due to cold.

  Apa Sherpa, Gray and Dawa Nuru reached C4 between 11 am to 12 pm. Apa descended to C2 where he reached between 2 or 3 pm.

  Huss and Smith slept at C3 on April 28: They left expedition early because of work commitments at home.

  Sherpas summiters:
    Apa, Thami, 2/62, Everest X14
    Dawa Nuru, Thami, 25/11/64, Everest X5
    Ang Pasang, Thami, 19/6/67, Everest X6

accidents:
  While descending Chang suffered from pulmonary edema, cerebral edema, keratitis, pneumonia at the altitude of 8200m on 31st (he took medicines as soon as he realized the sickness)


expid: EVER05194
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Scott Wazny
sponsor: Mountainwaz Everest Expedition
approach: Lukla->Chhukung->Island Peak->Kargwa
bcdate: 2005-04-16
smtdate: 2005-05-30
smttime: 0945
termdate: 2005-06-02
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(16/04,5500m),ABC(23/04,6200m),C1(03/05,7500m),C3(29/05,8000m),Smt(30/05)
agency: Sherpa Society
routememo:
  They left C3 at 11 pm. It was low wind, clear night. There were about 18 people were in front of Wazny. 6 Sherpas were just in front of them to fix the rope. They had excellent views, left summit 10:30 am, clouds came in when they left. He thinks there were about 20-25 people on the summit. He arrived at C3 at 3 pm the same day. Next day ABC.


expid: EVER05132
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Ecuador
leaders: Jose (Pepe) Jijon
sponsor: Dream Everest 2005
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-14
smtdate: 2005-05-31
termdate: 2005-06-02
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to strong wind and low temperature
campsites: BC(14/04,5200m),ABC(19/04,6400m),C1(24/04,7000m),C2(7800m),xxx(31/05,8000m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Jijon tried without Sherpa and without oxygen. 

  He returned to KTM on June 2 and left on 10th. 

  Initially he agreed to meet me on the 5th of June. When I called Jijon on 5th, he refused to meet saying that what he did on mountain was his private thing and would not talk about it with anybody. However, he told me about his highest point on the mountain.

  The UK Sunday Times reported on the internet that Jijon abandoned his attempt to rescue a Brazilian documentary-maker who had a panic attack at 8000m.


expid: EVER05147
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Marcin Miotk
sponsor: Independent climber on Everest
bcdate: 2005-05-22
smtdate: 2005-06-05
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2005-06-07
campsites: BC(22/05,5200m),ABC(23/05,6300m),C1(29/05,7050m),C2(30/05,7600m),C3(04/06,8300m),Smt(05/06)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Summary of climbing details of Marcin Miotk (according to his emails of 9 and 14 July 2005)

  Miotk made two bids to reach the summit. On the first one, he went alone to C1 on the 29th of May. Next day two independent Austrians, Hans Goger and Gerfield Goeschl, came up from ABC and the three men went together to C2 and slept there. On the 1st of June, Miotk decided the wind was too strong and descended to ABC while Goeschl went to the summit the same day and Goger the day after that, 2nd June.

  Miotk made his second summit push all by himself. On 3 June he went from ABC to C2, on the 4th to C3, and on the 5th to the top at 2:30 pm. He was the last person to summit Everest (or any other Nepalese mountain) this season.

  He slept in C3 on the 5th, descended all the way to ABC on the 6th, and went from there to Tingri on the 7th.

  He had only one tent with him (and no Sherpas). He pitched his tent at ABC, then took it with him as he went to C1 and C2 and down again. In C3, he occupied the badly battered tent of an India air force member, S. S. Chaitanya, who had summited on the 30th of May and then had fallen to his death.

  Miotk was the first Polish climber to summit Everest without the use of the any bottled oxygen.


  Note by E. Hawley - 15 July, 2005

  In his reports to two Internet websites, EverestNews.com and MountEverest.net, Miotk discussed whether his climb was solo and observed that there are different definitions of the term. It clearly was not a truly solo climb since there were other climbers still on the mountain. And it does not count as a totally unsupported climb like that of Alison Hargreaves in 1995 since he did some of his climbing in the close company of two others and used the tent of a different team at C3.


  Email from Goger, and Goeschl to Billi via telephone and email - 15-20 July 2005

  On 30th May Marcin climbed with them to C2 (7550m) and on 31st May they all went up to 7850m, where they stayed the night as strong winds prevented them from going farther to C3, however, Goeschl said Marcin was very slow that day. The next day (June 1) Goeschl went up to the summit and Goger went up to C3. Goger said Marcin went down to ABC on that day as he felt the weather was too bad to go any further. Both Goger and Goeschl saw Marcin again at ABC at around 10 am on June 3rd and he told them that he wanted to do another summit push without oxygen.

  However, Goeschl said he was suprised that Marcin had been planning to ascend to C2 at the same day as he was previously very slow.


expid: EVER05197
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Julie Kay Smith
sponsor: Climbing for a Cure to Everest (on Daniel Smith permit)
approach: Lukla->Namche->Gokyo->Chola La-BC
bcdate: 2005-04-03
smtdate: 2005-04-28
termdate: 2005-05-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7250m due to bad weather, time constraints
campsites: BC(03/04,5334m),C1(15/04,6000m),C2(18/04,6492m),C3(28/04,7254m),xxx(28/04,7250m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Climbed up to 23,800 ft (7250m) on 28th April. Descended on April 30th to BC. Waited for improvement in weather. Then left BC on May 29 by helicopter to Kathmandu. Smith will be leaving Kathmandu on June 1.


expid: EVER05198
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Will Cross
sponsor: Novolog Peaks and Poles Challenge (on Daniel Smith permit)
approach: Lukla->Namche->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-05
smtdate: 2005-05-31
termdate: 2005-06-03
termnote: Abandoned at 8750 due to high winds
campsites: BC(05/04,5534m),C1(17/04,6096m),C2(18/04,6706m),C3(28/04,7315m),C4(30/05,7925m),xxx(31/05,8750m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  30 May Cross and Ang Lhakpa Nuru left C3 at 06:00 am, arrived South Col at 13:00 hours. Left C4 at 22:00, reached South Summit at about 07:30 of 31st. Wind started blowing very strong, then turned around to C4 where they reached C4 about 13:00 and slept there. 

  Cross arrived KTM on June 4 and left same day for home. Cross called me before leaving for airport and told me about his highest point. Very cooperative.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Nuru, Upper Thami and Tesho, about 35 yrs old, no 8000ers


expid: EVER05193
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Willie Benegas
sponsor: Mountain Madness Everest Expedition 2005
countries: Luxembourg
bcdate: 2005-04-09
smtdate: 2005-05-30
smttime: 0920
termdate: 2005-05-03
campsites: BC(09/04,5350m),C1(15/04,6000m),C2(20/04,6400m),C3(05/05,7350m),C4(29/05,7900m),Smt(30/05)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Mountain Madness
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face.

  Summit party left C4 10:00 pm 29th and all reached top at 9:20 am to 9:50 am. First team to top despite fact they fixed rope from 50m below balcony (8400m) to top; returned to C2 to sleep at 1:35 pm (Benegas) to 2:10 pm, by all others. 

  Oxygen used: Sherpas Lhakpa Norbu from C3 up; others in C4 to top to and in C4; members: all from C3 to top to and in C4.

  Behm left 10 May after having reached C3, then lost motivation.
  Bonner left 12 April, got to C1, then lost motivation.
  LeClaire left 4 May, reached C2, then had medical complication.

  Summit Sherpas:
    Nima Wandeki, 22/6/73, Kharikhola, Everest X2, Lhotse X1, Kangch X1
    Lama Jangbu, 22/7/64, Kharihola, Everest X9, Cho Oyu X1
    Lhakpa Nuru, 23/5/78, Namche, Everest X1
    Mingma Tshering, 25/3/81, Kharikhola, Everest X4
    Ang Pasang, 22/7/69, Kharikhola, Everest X3


expid: EVER05195
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: SummitClimb Everest Expedition 2005
countries: Germany, Netherlands, Sweden
bcdate: 2005-04-14
smtdate: 2005-06-05
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2005-06-06
campsites: BC(14/04),C1(21/04,5900m),C2(28/04,6450m),C3(04/05,7100m),C4(03/06,7900m),Smt(05/06)
accidents: Fatal fall by Mike O'Brien only
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 at West Cwm
  C3 at Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Summit party left C4 at 9:30 pm on 4 June for top; Clarke, Coster, Tenji Sherpa and Lhakpa Sherpa; Coster turned back at 8400m at 2:00 am of 5th June because did not feel right, weather changed to windy and snowfalling; waited at South Col for others. Others on top at 9:00 am and all slept in C4 that night, weather (summiters to C4 at 2:00 pm). All down to BC next day because Icefall route being closed on 7th June. This only summit bid. 

  Christopher O'Brien left on 4 May in helicopter with body of his brother Michael who hadn't clipped into Icefall rope 1/3 of way down the Icefall, slipped from big ice block into crevasse, died from internal injuries (fell total of 50m); brother was with him in Icefall descent.

  Oxygen: Clarke from 8200m because Sherpa said he was moving slowly to top to and in C4; Sherpa summiters from 7700m to top to and in C4.


expid: EVER05150
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Kenneth Hill
sponsor: Dream Everest Expedition
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-13
smtdate: 2005-05-21
termdate: 2005-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 8200m due to general fatigue and bad weather
campsites: BC(13/04,5200m),ABC(17/04,6400m),C1(21/04,7000m),C2(24/04,7500m),xxx(21/05,8200m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 16th - 6000m
  C1 at North Col.

  Hill left C2 on May 21 at 02:00 hours (NST) using oxygen, reached 8200m at about 07:00 hours. There was not enough time for him to put up C3 and actually he wanted to try out how the oxygen work in high altitude. He turned back to C2, dismantled C2, then down to C1 where he reached at noon time and spent night at C1. Next day to ABC. 

  He said he has to get back to America to join an expedition to Alaska. Hill will leave Nepal on May 31. He is staying at Souvenir Guest House for 3 nights.


expid: EVER05174
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Mark Tucker
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) 2005 Everest Expedition
countries: Australia, Austria, Canada, Spain, UK
bcdate: 2005-04-05
smtdate: 2005-05-30
smttime: 0935
termdate: 2005-05-02
campsites: BC(04/05,5350m),C1(13/04,5900m),C2(22/04,6500m),C3(24/04,7200m),C4(29/05,7900m),Smt(30-31/05)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 at West Cwm
  C3 at Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  4 May avalanche from West Shoulder wiped out C1. On summit push, some Sherpas were on "fixing team" putting in ropes and Phu Nuru was part of this team and left C4 at 9:00 pm on 29th; Hahn, Brockmeyer, Dawa Nuru and Mingma Tenzing left at 10:00 pm and on top at 9:35 am slowed by waiting for fixing team to do its work in deep snow and then back to C4 at 2:15 pm and to C2 31st; also going for top on 29-30 May were Waldron and Da Nuru (Phortse, 1959) left C4 10:15 pm, turned back at 28,350 ft (well above the balcony) because Waldron felt that was his limit and be able to descend on his feet. 

  Used oxygen in C3 (Waldron) and from C3 (Hahn and Brockmeyer) to high point to nearly to yellow band enroute to C3 (Brockmeyer and Waldron) to and in C4 only by Hahn and Sherpas in C4 to top and in C4 (this was first summit party overseen by Hahn).

  The second summit party of Diffendal, Hamill, Laserer, Morris, Rionda, Schachinger, Strife, Tucker, Da Nuru Sherpa, Da Sonam Sherpa [and Pasang Rinji] followed one day behind. Second summit party left C4 at 10:00 pm of 30th May; Laserer turned back at 8150m because of bad weather he said; Rionda back at about same altitude; Strife and Schachinger reached about 8500m, perhaps slightly less (Schachinger said because of the weather); Hamill, Morris, Tucker and Da Nuru turned back at about 8600m because of cold winds; Diffendal, Pemberton, Da Sonam  [and Pasang Rinji] reached top at 8:45 am of 31st and return to sleep in C4 at about 11:00 pm; all others in this party went down to C2.

  Oxygen used by the second party: members in C3 to high points to C4 and most of them below C4 - Sherpa in C4 to high points to C4. 

  [Third summit party of Peter Ford, Mingma Ongel and Ang Pasang wanted to try for summit on June 1, but were prevented from starting out by high winds.]

  Climb now finished.

  Sherpa summiters.
    Dawa Nuru/Danuru, 26/10/78, Phortse, Everest X5, Manaslu X1
    Mingma Tshering, 1/6/86, Phortse, Cho Oyu X1
    Phu Nuru, 16/5/80, Phortse, Cho Oyu X3, Everest X1
    Da Sonam, 1965, Pangboche, Everest X4
    Pasang Rinji, Phortse [added from IMG web site]

  Other Sherpas:
    Da Nuru, Phortse, 19/5/59


expid: EVER05155
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Gigi, Shiori Hashimoto
sponsor: Chinese-Japanese Women's Mt. Qomolangma Medical Expedition 2005
countries: Japan
bcdate: 2005-03-26
smtdate: 2005-05-22
termdate: 2005-05-27
campsites: BC(26-27/03,5200m),ABC(14/04,6500m),C1(26/04,7020m),C2(27/04,7900m),C3(21/05,8300m),Smt(22/05)
accidents: Nothing serious: ABC cook Ang Lhakpa chest infection; Yoshida bad headache; Cang La eye problem
agency: None
routememo:
  First summit party of Jiji, Laji and Sherpas Norbu, Pemba Rita, Phurba Tshering, Phurwa, Big Dorje, Ngima and Pemba Gyalzen reached summit on 22 May. The two Chinese/Tibetan members used oxygen on summit push in C3 to top to C3. Laji stayed that night in C3 while Jiji descended to C2 using oxygen, then without it went down to ABC same day. Sherpas, who used oxygen in C3 to top to C3, descended same day to ABC without oxygen. All Chinese/Tibetan members used oxygen while sleeping in C2. Yoshida used it in C1 when she had very bad headache.

  Second Summit party reached 2nd Step on 23 May but strong winds forced them to give up their attempt for the summit.

  None of the 3 Tibetan "Sherpas" summited. 

  The Sherpa summiters were: 
    Norbu, 2/5/68, Beding, Everest X8, Lhotse X1, etc
    Pemba Rita, 29/8/79, Beding, Cho Oyu X1
    Phurbu Tshering, 23/6/73, Thami, 1st 8000er
    Phurwa, 28/6/72, Simigaon, Rolwaling, 1st 8000er
    Dorje, aka "Big Dorje", 1/10/65, Thamo, Everest X10, etc
    Ngima, 23/5/74, Kharikhola, 1st 8000er
    Pemba Gyalzen, 20/10/69, Thami, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1


expid: GYAJ05101
peakid: GYAJ
year: 2005
route1: NW Ridge-W Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
sponsor: Terres d'Adventure Gyajikang Expedition
ascent1: 4th
countries: Belgium
approach: Marshyangdi River->Phu Khola
bcdate: 2005-04-24
smtdate: 2005-05-02
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2005-05-03
campsites: BC(24/04,5300m),C1(27/04,6100m),C2(01/05,6300m),Smt(02/05)
accidents: Gresset eye-problem in C2 (altitude sickness)
agency: Glacier Safari Treks
routememo:
  BC at beginning of NW Ridge
  C1 on NW Ridge
  C2 on NW Ridge.

  NW Ridge not sharp and goes up and down frequently and was mostly snow covered with some exposed rock. Summit party left C2 at 4:00 am, on top 11:30 am and slept in C2, which reached at 4:00 pm after 1 hour on top in fine weather. 3 May to BC and left BC that day. 

  Rope fixed but C2 and top: 450m

  Garnier climbed to only 5900m on 28 April (not as strong climber).


expid: HIML05101
peakid: HIML
year: 2005
route1: W Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Cleve Armstrong
sponsor: Independent climber on Himlung
approach: Hongde
bcdate: 2005-05-02
smtdate: 2005-05-07
termdate: 2005-05-09
termnote: Abandoned at 5700m due to huge crevasse blocking approach to C2
campsites: BC(02/05,4500m),C1(05/05,5000m),xxx(07/05,5700m)
agency: South Asian Treks
routememo:
  BC near point 4800m west of mountain
  C1 southeast of bottom of West Ridge.

  Stopped at 5700m because huge crevasse blocked they way; if more rescuers people around would have tried to cross it by going down into it. Pemba Tenzing was on Himlung at 2003 by this route and terrain had changed greatly from non-technical mountain to technical. Fixed ropes below C1 (25m) and above C1 (50m). On 7th May to BC after clearing C1 since climb finished.


expid: KANG05102
peakid: KANG
year: 2005
route1: SW Face
nation: UK
leaders: Alan Hinkes
ascent1: 66th
bcdate: 2005-04-24
smtdate: 2005-05-30
smttime: 0715
termdate: 2005-06-04
campsites: BC(24/04,5500m),C1(30/04,6250m),C2(14/05,6840m),C3(29/05,7400m),Smt(30/05)
achievment: Claims his 14th 8000er and 1st UK atop all 8000ers
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 as same as Joos expedition site
  C2 as same as Joos expedition site
  C3 below the ramp.

  16 May Hinkes and Pasang Gelu down from C2 to BC. 26 May up from BC to C1; 27th to C2; 28 May tried to get C3 but only to 7200m but bad snow conditions and had to refix ropes; got to 7200m at 4:30 pm too late to continue up so down to C2. 29th up again and reached 7400m at later afternoon C3 there for summit bid on 30th. 30th 00:30 am up from C3 and up the ramp to 7900m (about 100m below Col) and then towards summit, refixing old rope (Indian) which was vital in descent; if old rope not there, would not have been able to find way down in snow blizzard and in dark on mixed snow and rock. Hinkes got to top at 7:00-7:30 pm as light was fading. Returned to C3 about 3:00 am on 31st. Pasang Gelu turned back, close to top, reason unknown, but probably because he had no torch and worried about safe return to ramp over difficult rock and snow - steep section to easier descent via ramp. Hinkes met him in ramp, at least bumped into him in poor visibility in falling snow. Both returned to C3 together (lower than ramp, snow not falling). Left C3 late afternoon because too tired to move earlier; to C2 at 7:30 pm and BC 1st June at 7:30 pm also. In descent from top Hinkes down pants ripped badly from hurrying down rocks.

  Oxygen used: both men from 7600m intermittently till oxygen stopped close to top to the for Hinkes and Pasang turned off at top of ramp because oxygen systems not working properly.

  All altitudes and time are estimates above C2 since Hinkes had no watch or altimeter (Pasang Gelu had watch).

  Hinkes video pictures in fading light show him about 5m below top.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Gelu (Dhimbul)


expid: KANG05101
peakid: KANG
year: 2005
route1: SW Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Norbert Joos
sponsor: International Kangchenjunga Expedition
countries: Czech Republic, Mexico, Spain
bcdate: 2005-04-16
smtdate: 2005-05-13
termdate: 2005-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 7620m due to dangerous snow conditions
campsites: BC(16/04,5500m),C1(23/04,6250m),C2(05/05,6840m),xxx(13/05,7620m)
agency: Himalayan High Country Treks
routememo:
  There weas a lot of snow: from C1 up to C3 site 1m deep powder snow snow which was dangerous of avalanching if returned to clean camps 2 and 3. 

  On 12th up from C2 for C3 was summit party of Joos and Ponce de Leon and 2 Sherpas; left C2 at 6:00 pm and got to 7620m at 2:00 pm for C3, deposited gear, slept in C2 and down to BC to rest for next summit attempt. 14th Marek and Segarra up from C2 and got to 7100m, then strong wind so down to BC. Now heavy snowfall, everyday some snow. Spent 36 days in BC in higher and only 3 days no snowfall, "quite frustrating" since not possible to go down to villages and drink a beer. On 21 May all members (except Schuler) and 3 Sherpas up to 6250m at C1, intending to go to C2 to bring down gear but too dangerous to go higher, so down to BC with C1 gear only. Glacier has changed a lot between C1 and C3 since Joos was there 2 years ago; almost like Khumbu Icefall. 

  Had to pay Maoists Rs 5000 per member at last village before BC. 

  Schuler left expedition 4 May; had been to C1 on 23 April, then got pluerisy in BC.


expid: LHOT05101
peakid: LHOT
year: 2005
route1: W Face
nation: Portugal
leaders: Joao Garcia
sponsor: Portuguese Lhotse Expedition
ascent1: 96th
bcdate: 2005-04-12
smtdate: 2005-05-21
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2005-05-24
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),C1(16/04,6000m),C2919/04,6400m),C3(20/05,7200m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 at West Cwm
  C3 at West Face.

  Went to BC 17 April. 19 April in C1 and moved it to C2. 20 April to BC. 4 days in BC rest in good weather. 25 April BC to C2. 26 April up to C3 site to place gear there and returned to C2. 29 April BC and 30 April to Pangboche to rest and arrived with inexperienced climbers plugging him for advice and help. 6 May returned to BC. 9 May to C2 to reacclimatize and check tent and go up to check C3 tent but windy so did not reach C3 and returned to C2. 12 May to BC. Weather forecast for bad weather so again to Pangboche on 14 May. 

  Returned to BC on 18 May after weather forecast there would be "window" on 20 and 21 May. 19 May to C2 and found Garcia's sleeping bag with important medical kit stolen by Thamserku Trekking Sherpa and found bag in his tent but medical kit gone (very important for Garcia because amputated fingers very susceptible to new frostbite). 20th to C3, where Santos had very bad headache and stomach trouble so stayed in C3 while Garcia left C3 at 11:00 pm of 20 May and 4:30 am of 21st reached Korean C4 at 7800m; on up the couloir and left to Lhotse summit in strong wind in final snow above couloir; on top at about 1:30 pm, slipped twice in couloir because crampons skidded on rocks; back at C3 at 5:00 pm and slept there without sleeping bag because Santos had taken it to C2, thinking Garcia would be there 21st night. Garcia joined Santos in C2 on 22nd and slept there. 23rd in BC.

  Garcia without rest from Pangboche up to top 21 May to KTM 26 May.


expid: LHOT05102
peakid: LHOT
year: 2005
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Shane Edmonds
sponsor: International Lhotse Expedition
countries: Australia, Argentina, Canada, Germany, Israel
approach: Lukla->Namche->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-14
smtdate: 2005-05-30
termdate: 2005-06-03
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to bad weather, strong winds
campsites: BC(14/04,5500m),C1(24/04,6000m),C2(29/04,6400m),C3(17/05,7100m),C4(30/05,8000m),xxx(30/05,8000m)
accidents: Avalanche injuries, HAPE, cracked rib
agency: Everest Parivar
primid: EVER05195
routememo:
  Avalanche at C2 on 4 May: Durga Sherpa [Tamang] injured his back (bruised), Barilla's face was cut by a rock, Bach bruised his ankle, Gautier bruised his kidney (he was passing blood), Bourdeau cut fingers and foot. Durga and Bourdeau were slightly above C1 and were hit by a wind blast (rocks hit them) caused by avalanche at 5:30 am. Barilla, Bach and Gautier were further below and caught in the avalanche and were carried down for about 50 meters. They were all able to free themselves. All 5 were picked up by helicopter on 6 May from BC.

  Oxygen used from 7600m (sleep from 8000m). 

  Barlow had HAPE at BC and was helicoptered out from Lobuche on 15 April.
  Broili left on 24 April due to HAPE at C1.
  Hagge left on 20 May due to cracked rib (he had reached C2).
  William Thomas and Meyering left on 17 April due to fatigue.
  Wigderson left BC on 5 May due to lack of motivation.

  All 3 Sherpas are from Patle.


expid: MAKA05101
peakid: MAKA
year: 2005
route1: W Pillar
nation: Spain
leaders: Alberto Ayora
sponsor: Grupo Militar de Alta Montana (GMAM) West Pillar Makalu 2005
approach: By helicopter Lukla->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-14
smtdate: 2005-05-20
termdate: 2005-06-04
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to strong winds
campsites: BC(14/04,5400m),C1(16/04,5800m),C2(23/04,6300m),C3(06/05,7300m),xxx(20/05,7600m)
accidents: Only death of BC kitchen boy Sumba Sherpa
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at west side of 2-glacier junction
  C1 at east of BC on moraine
  C2 in crevasse in snow covering pillar
  C3 on pillar at end of snow cover
  High point at West Pillar.

  Acclimatized with Khumbu Trek. Climbed West Pillar to 7600m at start of very difficult section: about 80 degrees and very bad weather with strong wind and snow, so down to BC. Stayed in BC waiting for better weather and on 30th May to C2; 31 May in C2 because of winds; 1 June to C3 (that night wind more than 90 km/hr). In C3 were Blanco, Borja, Callado and Latorre and Tika Sherpa (34, Khumbu) so down to C2 on 3 June and 4 June to BC and all team to Hillary BC at 4900m for helicopter pickup 5 and 6 June to KTM.

  Base camp kitchen boy, Sumba Sherpa from Junbesi, died 15 May very quickly from acute altitude sickness at base camp.


expid: MAKA05102
peakid: MAKA
year: 2005
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Angel Villan
sponsor: Spaniards to Makalu
bcdate: 2005-04-15
smtdate: 2005-05-13
termdate: 2005-05-15
termnote: Abandoned at 8250m due to wind
campsites: BC(15/04,5400m),C1(25/04,6500m),C2(04/05,7500m),xxx(13/05,8250m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC north of glacier junction
  C1 east arm of Chago Glacier
  C2 above Makalu La
  High point at 8250m couloir.

  All 4 members in C2 site but only Goni and Reketa slept there while other 2 members and 1 Sherpa down to C1 after depositing gear. 5th Goni and Reketa joined them in BC. 

  4 members BC to C1 11 May; 12 May C1 to C2 but Goni and Julen tent blown away at C2 so slept in C1, while Lagunilla and Villan and Mukta Lhakpa Sherpa [stayed in C2]. 13 May 2:00 am Lagunilla, Villan and Sherpa up from C2 to 8250m couloir; now no rope to equip couloir and wind blowing and cloudy and slept in C2 while Goni and Reketa went to BC. 14th Lagunilla, Villan and Muktu Lhakpa to BC in wind and climb finished. 

  Fixed 400m (and found old rope 6800-7500m); our rope fixed 100m below 6400m and 150m 6800-7500m and 150m about 8000m on glacier.

  Sherpa:
    Mukta Lhakpa (Tashigaon, Ev 5/96)


expid: MANA05101
peakid: MANA
year: 2005
route1: NE Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Rainer Pircher
sponsor: Amical Alpin Manaslu Expedition 2005
countries: Austria, Switzerland, Sweden
bcdate: 2005-04-15
smtdate: 2005-05-05
termdate: 2005-05-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7280m due to strong winds and heavy snowfall
campsites: BC(15/04,4800m),C1(21/04,5600m),C2(28/04,6700m),xxx(05/05,7280m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 above North side Col
  C2 below North Col
  High point at NE Face 200m below North Ridge.

  5 May all 8 members and 2 Sherpas left C2 for C3 at 7:00 am; Trisl turned back at 7000m tired and down to C1. Others up 7280m and down to C2 and next day to BC. Reason turned back was strong wind and heavy snowfall. 8th and 9th rested. 

  10th up to C1; 6300m-6400m on 11th but again snow and wind so down to BC. In this 2nd summit push, were all members (except Trisl) plus both Sherpas. Only this team fixed ropes; no other team fixed any; fixed from BC to highest point but most of it (6500m) between C1 and C2 because of many crevasses seracs in steep NE Face.

  Sherpas:  
    Pemba Dorje, aka Junge Pemba, 7/7/70, Kharikhola, Everest 23/5/03
    Pasang Nuru, Kharikhola, brother of Pemba Dorje, 14/12/77, no 8000ers


expid: MANA05103
peakid: MANA
year: 2005
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Yoshitomi Okura
sponsor: Japanese Alpine Club Mountain Manaslu Expedition 2005
approach: By helicopter to Samagaon
bcdate: 2005-04-23
smtdate: 2005-05-18
termdate: 2005-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to avalanche that wiped out equipment
campsites: BC(23/04,4700m),C1(04/05,5800m),xxx(18/05,5800m)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  Sherpas:
    Tul B. Tamang
    Ang Phurba Sherpa (sirdar)
    Pasang Kidar Sherpa
    Nima Nurbu Sherpa 
    Logen N. Sherpa 
    Lhapa D. Sherpa
    Wangde Sherpa


expid: MANA05105
peakid: MANA
year: 2005
route1: NE Face
nation: Colombia
leaders: Fernando Gonzalez-Rubio Polanco
sponsor: Colombian Manaslu Expedition
approach: By helicopter to Samagaon
bcdate: 2005-04-15
smtdate: 2005-05-05
termdate: 2005-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 7250m due to avalanche that wiped out C2
campsites: BC(15/04,4700m),C1(18/04,5700m),C2(25/04,6800m),xxx(05/05,7250m)
agency: Ang Nuru Sherpa
routememo:
  24 April Fernando slept at 6200m between C1 and C2. Fernando climbed with German Amical expedition but joined Spanish team (Ricardo Valencia) on 19 May. 

  He was independent climber but shared BC facilities with Amical.


expid: MANA05106
peakid: MANA
year: 2005
route1: NE Face
nation: Georgia
leaders: Gia Tortladze
sponsor: Manaslu 2005
countries: Russia
bcdate: 2005-04-27
smtdate: 2005-05-05
termdate: 2005-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6950m due to loss of equipment
campsites: BC(27/04,4700m),C1(30/04,5650m),C2(05/05,6950m),xxx(05/05,6950m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 above Naike Col
  C2 at North Col
  High point at North Col.

  1 May down to BC to rest and 3 May to C1. 4 May to 6450m to pitch tent and 5 May moved tent to C2. 6 May to BC. Now bad weather with daily snowfall and finally started up again: 17 May to C1, 18 to C2 site but tent disappeared completely. Why disappeared? maybe wind and snow together and snow face of snow now very hard, like ice, so impossible to dig in it, so down to C1 and 19 May to BC. Climb finished with loss of equipment.

  Maoists charged expedition Rs 52,000 on approach to BC: Rs 100 per member per day, 75 days on climbing permit and 7 members on permit (5 others are different teams).


expid: PASA05101
peakid: PASA
year: 2005
route1: S Pillar-S Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Hans Kammerlander
sponsor: Hans Kammerlander Jasamba Expedition 2005
approach: From Thami up Bhote Kosi River
bcdate: 2005-04-26
smtdate: 2005-05-16
termdate: 2005-05-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to strong wind
campsites: BC(26/04,5300m),C1(01/05,6000m),xxx(16/05,6700m)
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  BC at moraine 1 hour from south base of Jasamba
  High point at South Pillar.

  2nd May all 3 down to BC and nearly 5 days snowfall. 6th May to C1. 7th May fixed 550m rope to 6700m. 8th May to BC because wind damaged tent. Up 15 May again up to C1. Again snowing all the time. 16 May up South Pillar, where rock crumble with 150m overhang with snow and ice; took 10 hours to high point (6:00 am to 11:00 pm). Now no chance for summit and now very strong wind and back to BC in strong wind that day and climb finished. 

  Wants to come back to South Pillar to South Face but perhaps line on face left of line this time.

  2 Sherpas went to C1.


expid: PUMO05101
peakid: PUMO
year: 2005
route1: SE Face
nation: Australia
leaders: Alan Silva
sponsor: Singapore-Sydney Pumori Expedition 2005
countries: Singapore
bcdate: 2005-04-17
smtdate: 2005-04-27
termdate: 2005-04-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to heavy snowfall
othersmts: Attempted Lobuche East (to 6000m 13 April)
campsites: BC(17/04,5300m),ABC(19/04,5700m),C1(20/04,6125m),xxx(27/04,6700m)
accidents: Ramli Ahmad chest infection
agency: Independent Himalayan Adventure
routememo:
  BC  very near Khumbu Glacier, due est of Kalapattar high point
  ABC on moraine directly below normal route
  C1  at top of a serac on SE Face.
  High point at SE Face at top of seracs (C2 site).

  Afternoon of 20th started snowing and snowed every afternoon - 3 ft snow every afternoon. 21st down to ABC, 22nd back to C1, 23rd to BC to wait to see how weather would be. 25th to ABC, 26th to C1, 27th to 6400m fixing route and up to site for C2 at 6700m, but slept in C1. 27th small avalanches and three hit team and half buried Roslan Ahmad, who was belaying Silva in loose snow. Decided in C2 that night that snow conditions too dangerous to continue. 28th Silva alone to clear C2 and heavy snowfall while he was up there. All down to BC 28th. 3 members climbed together with Ang Pasang Sherpa to C1. 

  Ramli got very sick on 23 April in descent with chest infection and stayed in BC for rest of climb. Thereafter 2 members and Sherpa climbed together.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Pasang Sherpa, Bupsa-7, Solukhumbu, Everest Aut 93


expid: PUMO05102
peakid: PUMO
year: 2005
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Danny Geerinck
sponsor: Flemish Pumori Expedition
bcdate: 2005-04-26
smtdate: 2005-05-11
termdate: 2005-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to strong wind
campsites: BC(26/04,5250m),C1(02/05,5700m),C2(03/05,6150m),C3(10/05,6550m),xxx(11/05,6800m)
accidents: Nothing except Moti Lal Gurung slight altitude sickness
agency: Unique Adventure International
routememo:
  C3 at just below East Col.
  High point at 6800m at East Ridge.

  C3 occupied 10 May by all members except Vandevoorde, who reached C3 but descended to C2. From 3 pm on 10th strong winds started blowing, perhaps 80 km/hr and kept blowing all afternoon and night and all day on 11th; filled tents with winds blowing snow at C3. On 11th only Bockstael, De Boeck and Moti Lal Gurung stayed at C3. De Boeck wanted to see Tibet so climbed up to Col at about 6600m to see over East Ridge to north while Gurung went up East Ridge to 6800m to find route very difficult (and got very tired and slight altitude problem). On 11th they dug out Koreans abandoned tents and on 12th dug out this team's tents and down to BC, where other members had arrived on 11th. Climb finished because of continuing strong winds and a lot of snow.


expid: PUMO05103
peakid: PUMO
year: 2005
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Hong Bo-Seong
sponsor: Korea Busan Pumori Expedition
ascent1: 151
bcdate: 2005-03-19
smtdate: 2005-03-29
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2005-04-03
campsites: BC(19/03,5350m),ABC(24/03,5700m),C1(27/03,6100m),C2(28/03,6600m),Smt(29/03)
accidents: Only fatal accident
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  BC  between 2 lakes
  ABC near bottom of SE Face
  C1  at top of ridge/rib on SE Face
  C2  below Col.

  Summit team left C2 at 4:45 am to go to top and reached summit at 3:00 pm. Climb was difficult because of crevasses and wind, so climbed slowly. 

  In descent Joung and Kim Do-Young fell at about 6750m, not far above C2, because they were exhausted. (They were not roped together but had been using the fixed ropes).

  Team arrived KTM 11 April and leave 13 April. Stayed at Windhorse Trekking's house.


expid: PUMO05104
peakid: PUMO
year: 2005
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: SummitClimb Pumori Expedition 2004
ascent1: 150
countries: Australia, Finland, Germany, Latvia, Netherlands, Norway, Panama, Turkey, UK
bcdate: 2005-03-11
smtdate: 2005-03-25
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2005-03-27
campsites: BC(11/03,5300m),ABC(14/03,5800m),C1(16/03,6200m),C2(19/03,6500m),Smt(25/03)
accidents: Only fatal falls
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  BC  near lake above Gorak Shep
  ABC at bottom of SE Face
  C1  at top of rock rib
  C2  just below East Col.

  After 19th March storm (wind and snow) and very cold. On 15th Phuri Sherpa left C1 at 8:00 am for top while all other summiters left C2 at 6:40 am; Phuri caught up with others at 6900m. Latvia and Panamanian climbed slowly, so summit reached by them only at 3:10 pm with Mazur and Phurba Tamang escorting them. All summiters to C2 to sleep; on C2 at 4:00 pm except Mazur and Hartmane who returned at 7:00 pm and 6:00 pm, respectively. Mazur returned later because searching with Sherpas for the Panamian and Phurba Tamang who fell in in descent. No more summit attempts because no more time.

  Where bodies went, no idea, search turned up no clue. 

  Members who left early:
    Dougherty left 21 March - bad pulmonary edema (recovered later)
    Duncan left 17 March - had no interest in climb and never went above BC
    Joll left 13 March - had previous back injury and when getting out of tent 
       at BC, it was hurt again - never went above BC
    Loos left 25 March - went to C1, then had enough
    Te Hennepe left 23 March - went to 6000m, then had enough
    Wuoble-Stenberg left 17 March - went to 6000m then had enough.


  Asleep on the Summit, by Dan Mazur
  (given to Elizabeth Hawley by Mazur)

  We are very shocked and saddened to have to tell this tale. Alex Chen and Phurba Tamang were very kind people, good friends, and they will be sorely missed.

  On the sunny, warm and calm morning of Friday the 25th of March, Alex unzipped his tent and popped out, nearly ready to go. He had put his boots and crampons on in the tent. We left camp at 6:40 am on a sunny, warm, wind-free morning, and Jangbu Sherpa, Tenzing Sherpa, Tunc Findik and Mark Merwin rapidly pulled ahead.

  By the time of the 9 am radio call, they were well out in the distance, and had become the "lead team" and in the back were Dan, Liga, Alex and Phurba, the "final four." The group moved slowly and steadily upward, following the lead team who were finding the way. Phuri Sherpa climbed all they way up from C1 to join the lead team aorund midday, as well.

  By about 2 pm, the last four were cresting onto the summit itself. They watched the lead team coming down off the summit pyramimd, and the two groups passed in front of a small crevasse-field just under the pyramid. Pleasantries were exchanged. The weather was sunny with light winds. It was not very cold. Jangbu asked Dan if it was all right if he went down with the lead team, or should he stay and help? Everything seemed to be working smoothly, and the weather looked stable and even warm, so it seemed best if the teams went their separate ways.

  On the Summit: In a few minutes, the final four crossed the last little crevasse field and were on the summit. It was thrilling and exciting to be there. Alex was wearing a huge grin and his yellow down suit, laughing with joy and holding up a meter-wide Panamanian flag while Liga photographed it. The group stood there across Liga-Dan-Alex, with Everest in the background. The sun shone on the scene and the wind blew lightly. It was pleasant.

  After a few minutes, our photos were taken and it was time to go down. Alex finished packing away a few items into his day sack, and Phurba was sorting out the ropes. Dan and Liga were ready and began to head down.

  They retraced their steps, following the trail down. They re-crossed the little crevasse fields and made their way down the steepening slopes. Just before they crossed the brow of the mountain, Dan looked over his shoulder and saw that Phurba and Alex had made it through the small crevasse-field, and were coming down. Dan noticed that Alex was sitting on the snow, apparently resting.

  The snow was approximately ankle deep and the slope was about 45 degrees (not icy). Liga was going down first, with Dan behind (upslope). Liga lost her step and slipped. She was able to catch herself. Dan slipped a few times too on the un-consolidated snow, but these were small stumbles, not major falls, easily stopped by putting one's ice axe and/or hand into the snow. They continued on down, slowly making their way down the trail.

  As they were going down, Dan looked up the slope and saw the two helmets of Phurba Tamang and Alex Chen bobbing up and down through the increasing ground blizzard. Dan recalls thinking that everything was going well; Alex and Phurba were steadily coming down.

  Satisfied that the other rope team was coming down. Dan looked downhill and focused on watching Liga place one foot in front of another and descend. She was stepping precisely and seemed to be managing the task well.

  A minute or so elapsed, and the team was still descending, around the the 7100m mark. It was becoming windier, and a small ground blizzard was scouring this part of the mountain. The wind was making a scrating noise as it tore along the ground.

  The Accident: Over the consistent blanket of background noise, Dan heard a "shooshing" sound seeming to emanate from a point somewhere behind them, uphill. Before he had a chance to spin around to see where the noise was originating from, a very unexpected spectacle came shooting down alongside of him, perhaps 15 meters distant, out to his right.

  The other rope team of Alex and Phurba were sliding quickly down the powdery-sugary 45-degree slope. Alex was in the lead, lying down on his stomach, arms at his side, face turned toward Dan and Liga. His read helmeted face wore the beautific expressing of sleep (Dan recalls thinking that it looked as if Alex was accepting his fate, or snoozing calmly like a baby). In retrospect, it seems that Alex was indeed sleep.

  Phurba Tamang was a different story however. He was roaring down the hill tied behind Alex on his back in a sitting position on his backside, feet down hill, one hand pulling on the rope, the other arm flailing against the snow wildly, clawing it and kicking it, trying to slow their speed, to no avail. Now on his back, legs down; now on his side, legs kicking like scissors. Phurba was almost crying, his face in a horrible grimace of fear, looking directly at Dan and shouting and screaming: "Help Me! Help Me!" Dan instantly recognized the situation and shouted to Phurba to "Put in your axe!" 

  Phurba struggled and kicked to no avail, but unable to slow them, he and Alex accelerated through the steep powder, quickly passing Dan and Liga, who stood and watched in shock. In a split second, they rocketed down the slope and over the edge of the steeply tilted plateau, suddenly disappearing from view. And then they were gone, and there was only silence. Dan noticed an ice axe lying in the snow where Alex and Phurba had passed. He was not sure whose axe this was, Alex or Phurba's.

  The Search: Dan radioed the Sherpas from the first rope team, who were already back in the high camp, having quickly descended, and asked them to return to the scene of the accident for a rescue, bringing ropes, snow bars and ice screws. 

  The short rope limited Dan and Liga as they searched the area as they descended. After about an hour, the Sherpas arrived and one of them, Lhakpa Kongle, took Liga down to Camp 2, very slowly and carefully. Dan remained while the other two Sherpas climbed back up the mountain to see if they could find anything. After another hour or so, it was nearly dark and the Sherpas radioed down to Dan that they had not seen anything but steep cliffs and jagged seracs, and were coming down.

  Upon their return to where Dan had been waiting and listening on the radio, they announced that Alex and Phurba were dead. It was very cold and windy and dark at that point. Then the three of them, Dan and the two Sherpas, dejectedly climbed back down slowly and carefully to the high camp, saddened at the loss of their two friends. The following day, the entire team climbed back down the mountain and cleaned up all of the camps as they came down. The government authorities and family members were notified.

  In conclusions, it seems Alex suddenly, "fell-asleep," coming down from the summit (this is why he looked so peaceful and sleepy as he and Phurba slid past). Alex had surely collapsed with no warning and Phurba could not hold him in the steep soft snow. Alex suddenly went unconscious and collapsed, and came rocketing down the slope catching Phurba by surprise, and knocking Phurba off of his feet. What a horrible feeling it must have been for Phurba to be tied to the sleeping Alex. Phurba would have been like Alex's captive victim. Unable to quickly unclip himself from the rope, Phurba was dragged kicking and screaming over the precipice.

  Alex and Phurba's fall ended in broken up ice fields below, and they died a quick and rapid death. This is specially true for Alex, who would have been asleep.


  An interview with Ms. Liga Hartmane

  Liga Hartmane was on the summit at the same time as Alex, on Dan's rope team, and she has this to say:

  Liga Hartmane - "[ On the way up] I didn't notice any difference about Alex. He always had an expression of pain, but was always in a good mood. I was moving much slower than usual but Alex was moving at his usual pace. He was behind us together with Phurba, but not too far. Each time we stopped, he caught up. When the fixed line finished, Phurba Sherpa appeared with a rope and cut it in two and Dan said we should rope up. Me with Dan and Alex with Phurba. We reached the summit together. I think it was 15:10 when we were on the summit, because I checked my watch. Dan said no more than 15 minutes on the summit, because it was already so late. We took a lot of photos and Alex looked all the same. He was very happy and making a lot of photos with his flag. He didn't really want to go down it seemed, but I was cold and wanted to go down as fast as possible. We started to descend. I was going first and Dan behind me and after a while, Dan said we should stop and see how Alex is doing. They were not very far away - about 200m behind and were descending much slower than us. We had stopped for about 3 minutes and then kept descending. I think we were maybe halfway back to the fixed lines which finished about 100m distance meters away from the crevasse at 6900m, when I heard Dan screaming "Phurba ice axe!" I stopped and looked and saw them falling about 100m away from us. Alex was falling first and doing nothing that I saw to try to try to stop himself. He seemed to be rolling. He didn't act as a normal person should act on a snow slope. It was like he was unconscious. Phurba was trying to do something to stop them. I only saw them for about 5 seconds before they disappeared over an edge. I didn't hear anything except Dan yelling "Phurba ice axe!" Dan then called on the radio that we need 3 Sherpas up because Alex has fallen down. We then moved down slowly looking for any signs. At some point below we saw an ice axe, probably Phurba's. We continued to move down slowly trying to find any traces of them. We found a place that was sheltered from the wind and waited for the Sherpas to come. I was so cold, I could barely move because we waited for such a long time, so when the Sherpas arrived, I went down to C2 with one of them."


expid: SWEL05101
peakid: SWEL
year: 2005
route1: S Face (to 5200m)
route2: SW Face-NW Ridge (to 5800m)
nation: Japan
leaders: Sadamu Kitagawa
sponsor: Kitagawa Swelokhan Expedition
approach: Marshyangdi River->Dudh Khola->Larkya La, east to Samdo->Buri Gandaki
bcdate: 2005-04-26
smtdate: 2005-05-03
termdate: 2005-05-10
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to impossible route
campsites: BC.1(26/04,4415m),xxx(27/04,5200m);BC.2(30/04,4435m),C1(29/04,5400m),xxx(03/05,5800m)
achievment: 1st attempt on mountain
agency: Marvel Treks
routememo:
  1st BC west of point 5181 and south of point 5314 on the map
  2nd BC slightly higher, northwest of 1st BC
  C1 on SW Face
  High point at SW Face.

  Plan to attack mountain via South Face so 1st BC pitched (south of South Face: 27 April). Kitagawa and Dorchi Sherpa went to 5000m and down to 1st BC: went up very steep glacier: at 5200m glacier stopped and above way been overhanging rock so not possible to climb that. 

  Made 2nd BC only 20m higher and half hour walk to 2nd BC site slightly northwest of 1st BC on 30th April. Had made a high camp on 29th from 1st BC at 5000m on SW Face; only Dorchi down to 1st BC and he and Kitagawa made 2nd BC. 2 May both to C1. 3rd May both climbed to 5800m on NW Ridge at 10:00 am, 5 hours of the leaving C1. NW Ridge very narrow knife ridge with vertical drops on both north and south sides; mostly unstable loose rock with some fresh snow; this was impossible, so down to C1 to sleep and climb finished. 

  South Face is possible for technical climb with proper climbing gear, says Kitagawa.

  Shogo never reached BC (altitude sickness).


expid: TAWO05101
peakid: TAWO
year: 2005
route1: SE Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Ueli Steck
sponsor: Swiss to Ama Dablam Cholatse Tawoche
ascent1: 12th
approach: Pheriche->Tawoche Glacier
bcdate: 2005-04-23
smtdate: 2005-04-25
smttime: 0400
termdate: 2005-04-27
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (3 April) and Cholatse (CHOL-051-01); attempted Ama Dablam (AMAD-051-09)
campsites: BC(23/04,5200m),Smt(25/04)
accidents: Ratke frostnip on one finger and incipient pulmonary edema
agency: Royal Orchid Treks
primid: CHOL05101
routememo:
  First went to base of North Pillar, intended route, but much loose rock coming down gully so too dangerous so did not attempt pillar but went to SE Face instead. Started up face at 11:30 pm of 24th and on top 4:00 am of 25th and 8:00 am back in BC. One hour after reaching BC snow avalanching began. Some vertical ice (3 pitons) just below summit. "I didn't pick the perfect route - it was dark." Perfect route perhaps to the right high up to SE Summit and then traverse left along summit ridge to highest summit. Steck descended same line as ascended.


expid: TKPO05101
peakid: TKPO
year: 2005
route1: NE Face (left side)
nation: Japan
leaders: Minoru Nagoshi
sponsor: Hiroshima Maple Peace Expedition 2005 to Tengkangpoche
approach: Thami Og->Thengpo
bcdate: 2005-04-18
smtdate: 2005-05-07
termdate: 2005-05-09
termnote: Abandoned at 5100m due to dangerous avalanching
campsites: BC(18/04,4320m),xxx(07/05,5100m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at south side of Thami Khola opposite Thengpo village.

  Started up from BC in series of bivouacs: 23 April to 4750m; 25 April to BC; 27th to 4800m; 29th to 4930m. Bad snowfall on 28th afternoon to 2nd May, where reached 4950m. 3rd May avalanche now but up to 5000m. 4th May down to 4950m. 5th May up again to 5050m. 7th May to 5100m where Nagoshi hit by avalanche, fell over backwards and fell 20m and stopped by Matsushimo's belay; down to 5050m. The entire NE Face very dangerous because of avalanching. 8th May to BC. 

  Would like to climb this face in good weather.


expid: TUKU05101
peakid: TUKU
year: 2005
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Yuri Rodichev
sponsor: Friends Tukuche Expedition
countries: France
approach: Besisahar->Manang->Jomsom->Marpha
bcdate: 2005-04-05
smtdate: 2005-04-06
termdate: 2005-04-08
termnote: Abandoned at 6150m due to no place for C2, strong wind, started snowing
campsites: BC(05/04,5100m),C1(06/04,5620m),xxx(06-07/04,6150m)
agency: Friends Adventure Team
routememo:
  BC north northeast of Tukuche
  C1 below icewall of NW Ridge
  High point on East Face of NW Ridge

  No place for a C2 because only ice. 2 Nepalese to establish C2 at 6150m, where waited to put camp but impossible because all hard ice, so down on 6th and fixed ropes. 7th same 2 Nepalis and Rajesh Lama (both Lamas same village as Kami - Rajesh, his cousin) fixed rope from C1 to C2 site and taken down on 7th so no rope left in mountain.

  10 porters went to C1.


expid: LHOT05103
peakid: LHOT
year: 2005
route1: W Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Chung Ki-Bum
sponsor: 2005 Korean Everest-Lhotse Expedition for Yang Chung 100th Anniversary
approach: Lukla->Namche->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-09
smtdate: 2005-05-21
termdate: 2005-06-02
termnote: Abandoned at 7950m due to bad weather and lack of oxygen bottles
othersmts: Climbed Everest (EVER-051-66)
campsites: BC(09/04,5500m),C1(15/04,5900m),C2(17/04,6200m),C4(21/04,7900m),xxx(21/04,7950m)
agency: Discover Adventure
primid: EVER05166
routememo:
  Lhotse: Bang Won-Shik reached C4 at 7400m on 21 May but the weather was too bad. He did not try again due to lack of oxygen bottles. Everest was more important to expedition and they needed oxygen there.

  Nam and Park left expeditions on 18 May to go back home for work.


expid: LHOT05104
peakid: LHOT
year: 2005
route1: W Face
nation: UK
leaders: Henry Todd
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Everest and Lhotse Expedition
countries: France
bcdate: 2005-04-10
smtdate: 2005-06-05
termdate: 2005-06-07
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to wind, cold and black clouds moving in
othersmts: Attempted Everest (EVER-051-90)
campsites: BC(10/04),C1(14/04,6000m),C2(17/04,6400m),C3(19/05,7300m),C4(04/06,7600m),xxx(05/06,8000m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
primid: EVER05190
routememo:
  Lhotse bid:

  Only one attempt was made to reach Lhotse's top. Claire David and Pemba Tshering made their C4 on 4 June at 7600m, having climbed there from C3 at 7300m up Lhotse's West Face; got to about 8000m and then the wind and cold and black clouds sent them down to C2. 

  David used oxygen from C4 to 8000m, Pemba Tshering used none.

  Sherpas to Lhotse:
    Pemba Tshering, 1965, Pangboche, Everest X2, Lhotse X1


expid: CHOY04353
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: China
leaders: Chen Si-Qi (Mao-Mao)
bcdate: 2004-08-30
smtdate: 2004-09-21
campsites: BC(30/08),ABC(04-05/09,5700m),C1(6300m),C2(7100m),C3(7500m),Smt(21,25/09)
agency: None
routememo:
  David Morton, leader of USA Cho Oyu and his Sherpa Lhakpa Rita - 27 Sept 2004

  Independent Chinese (leader Mamu?) with 2 Tibetans on top on 21 Sept at same time as Morton's and his team. Morton's Sherpa, Lhakpa Rita, knows the Tibetans.

   Da Chimi (DaCheme) - Cho Oyu X1, Everest X2, etc.
   Qimi, 5/7/64, China-Japan-Nepal 1988 (summit unverified by other Chinese data)

  BC(30/08),ABC(04-05/09,5700m),C1(6300m),C2(7100m),C3(7500m),Smt(21/09)


  Jiang Ling (by email) - August 2005

  Reports 8 Chinese including Si-Qi Chen summiting on 25 Sept.


  Si-Qi Chen is also known as Mao-Mao.


expid: AMAD05301
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: A south ridge to east end of East Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Oleg Afanasiev
sponsor: Krasnodar Ama Dablam 2005
bcdate: 2005-10-16
smtdate: 2005-10-22
termdate: 2005-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to fatigue and length of route
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
campsites:
  BC(16/10,4000m),ABC(17/10,5000m),Biv1(18/10,5500m),Biv2(19/10,5700m),Biv3(20/10,5900m),Biv4(21/10,6100m),Biv5(22/10,6300m),xxx(22/10,6300m)

routememo:
  BC at Pangboche village
  ABC at bottom of mountain but too far east
  C1 at 1st biv
  C2 at 2nd biv
  C3 at 3rd biv
  C4 at 4th biv on ice shelf sitting
  C5 at 5th biv on East Ridge
  High point at 5th biv on East Ridge.

  Acclimatized on Kalapattar, Everest BC and Island Peak.

  18 Oct started alpine style ascent, but ABC placed too far east as actually climbed eastern extension of Ama Dablam; from ABC could not see intended route of Russians in 1994 on East Face but actually climbed up to East Ridge from south. Lot of fresh snow on east, could fix no rope after having reached far eastern end of East Ridge. On 22 Oct then descended to ABC and climb finished. Warm direct sun only from 11:00 am and they stopped at 4:00 pm to make place for tent, which took 3 hours to prepare.

  This team only 2 members (1994 team had 4 members and was in spring season). Had gotten very cold sitting on ice shelves and very tired after 5 days moving through 1 meter deep snow. Had only 1 snow bar; expected ice.


expid: AMAD05302
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Takaharu Hayashi
sponsor: Karang Kurung Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Kalapattar->Lobuche
bcdate: 2005-10-11
smtdate: 2005-10-17
smttime: 1015
termdate: 2005-10-19
campsites: BC(11/10,4600m),C1(15/10,5500m),C2(08/10,5900m),C3(16/10,6300m),Smt(17/10)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  Hayashi, Matsuoka, Lhakpa and Ang Dawa left C3 at 04:00 hours on Oct 17. Reached to summit at 10:15 hours, stayed on summit about 15 minutes, back to C3 at 14:30 hours. Ang Dawa descended to C1. The Hayashi team climbed with Russian team of 11 people. While descending they met one Slovakian coming up. Weather was very clear, but very cold. 

  The team returned to KTM on 21 Oct and will leave on Oct 22. The team was among the first summiters of the season. 

  Sherpa summiters:
    Lhakpa Sherpa, Makalu VDC 9, Sankhuwasabha, summited Makalu and Cho Oyu. 
    Ang Dawa Sherpa, Makalu VDC 5, summited Everest twice and Ama Dablam once.


expid: AMAD05303
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Gennady Kirievsky
sponsor: Ural Ama Dablam 2005
approach: Lukla->Pangboche
bcdate: 2005-10-04
smtdate: 2005-10-17
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2005-10-20
campsites: BC(04/10,4500m),C1(07/10,5600m),C2(08/10,5800m),C3(15/10,6200m),Smt(17/10)
achievment: Oleynikova may be the first Russian woman to summit Ama Dablam
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC at usual BC.

  Frolenko, Kirievsky, Kuznetsov, Lapin, Loutsenko, Lutsak, Oleynikov, Miss Oleynikova, Ovchinikov, Shatalov and Solovev left C3 at 04:00 hours on Oct 17. Reached summit first one at 09:30 hours, last one to reach at 10:30 hours. Stayed at summit about 2 hours. Weather was excellent, clear sky, little wind. The team descended to C3 where they reached between 14:00-14:30 hours. Frolenko, Kuznetsov, Lapin, Loutsenko, Ovchinikov and Shatalov stayed in C3. Kirievsky, Lutsak, Oleynikov, Miss Oleynikov and Solonev descended to BC. 

  Belevsky, Marnykh and Zubtsov reached to C2 on Oct 9 spent a night there and next day returned to BC. They thought they were not physically fit to continue for summit. The two Japanese and two Sherpas were together while summiting. While descending the team met a Slovakian climber going up. The team returned to Kathmandu on Oct 22 and will leave on Oct 24.


expid: AMAD05304
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
route2: S Face (to 6250m)
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Viki Groselj
sponsor: Slovenian Jubilee Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Croatia
bcdate: 2005-10-04
smtdate: 2005-10-17
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2005-10-24
campsites: BC(04/10),C1(06/10,5400m),C2(16/10,6100m),C3(18/10,6400m),Smt(17,19,23/10)
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC at Pangboche (lodge of Sirdar Girme Dorje)
  C2 temporary
  C3 at permanent C2.

  19 Oct Di Batista and Tekavcic left C1 to make alpine style ascent of South Face (1984 Buhler/Zabaleta route). Slept biv at 5600m on face. 20th reached 6000m on face for 2nd biv. 21st reached 6250m, then because of falling snow, down to 5800m for biv. 22nd back to C1.


expid: AMAD05305
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Ingrid Alder
sponsor: Monte Rosa Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Pangboche
bcdate: 2005-10-17
smtdate: 2005-10-24
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2005-10-27
campsites: BC(17/10,4600m),C1(21/10,5400m),C2(22/10,6000m),C3(23/10,6200m),Smt(24/10)
achievment: 2nd oldest woman to top
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Team left C3 at 8 am. Weather was perfect, not windy. Good views from summit. Team descended to C3, arrived there at 4 pm and stayed the night. They descended to BC on 25 Oct.


expid: AMAD05306
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Emmanuel Morin
sponsor: The Monkeys on Ama Dablam
countries: UK
approach: Lukla->Pangboche
bcdate: 2005-10-10
smtdate: 2005-10-19
termdate: 2005-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to upset stomach, no time left
campsites: BC(10/10,4500m),C1(13/10,5700m),xxx(19/10,6000m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Charlotte Penet did not feel very well on trip which slowed the team down. She got as far as C1 but decided to stay there.
   
  The other two members were fit and conditions were perfect.


expid: AMAD05307
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Pier Paolo Pole Romano
sponsor: Pier Paolo Ama Dablam
approach: Lukla->Namche->Chhukung->Island Peak
bcdate: 2005-10-12
smtdate: 2005-10-19
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2005-10-21
campsites: BC(12/10,4500m),C1(15/10,5700m),Smt(19/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Role Romano left C1 at 5 am. He met 5 Slovenians on their way down at about 6500m. He descended to BC the same day (6:30 pm).

  Favario got as far as C1. She descended to BC on 18 Oct and stayed there as she was feeling sick (fever and cold).


expid: AMAD05308
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Andreas Herlt
sponsor: Diamir Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Renjo La->Cho La->Island Peak
bcdate: 2005-10-14
smtdate: 2005-10-19
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2005-10-22
campsites: BC(14/10,4500m),ABC(15/10,5500m),C1(17/10,5600m),C3(18/10,6200m),Smt(19-20/10)
agency: Multi Adventure
routememo:
  Team that summited on 19 Oct left C3 at 7 am. After summiting they descended to BC where they arrived at 8 pm. Conditions and weather were perfect.

  Team that summited on 20 Oct left C3 at 7:30 am. They descended to C1, where they arrived at 6 pm.

  The weather on 20 Oct was good but it started to snow in the evening.


expid: AMAD05309
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Juan Carlos Gomez Ramos
sponsor: Spaniards to Ama Dablam
approach: Chhukung->Island Peak->Pangboche
bcdate: 2005-10-16
smtdate: 2005-10-25
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2005-10-28
campsites: BC(16/10,4600m),C1(18/10,5700m),C2(23/10,6100m),C3(24/10,6300m),Smt(25/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Team left C3 at 7:30 am. Weather was windy, but clear. There were about 7 people on the summit. Views were very good. They descended to C2, where they arrived at 6 pm; it was dark when they got back.


expid: AMAD05310
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Renzo Benedetti
sponsor: Italian Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Gokyo->Cho La->Kalapattar
bcdate: 2005-10-20
smtdate: 2005-10-25
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2005-10-28
campsites: BC(20/10,4600m),C1(21/10,5800m),C3(24/10,6200m),Smt(25/10)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Benedetti left C3 at 8 am. It was very windy, but very clear. Very good view from summit. He met two Spaniards (Gomez and Ramos) on his way down. He descended to BC, where he arrived at 7 pm.

  Concari got to 5800m on 24 Oct. He did not carry on climbing as he was too tired.


expid: AMAD05311
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Christian Semmel
sponsor: Amical Alpin Ama Dablam Expedition 2005
approach: Lukla->Pangboche
bcdate: 2005-10-11
smtdate: 2005-10-21
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2005-10-25
campsites: BC(11/10,4600m),C1(15/10,5800m),C2(19/10,6000m),C3(20/10,6360m),Smt(21-23/10)
accidents: Hauer frostbite on left hand
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Gschwendtner left C3 at 7 am. It was very cloudy but still. He climbed with Austrian Alexander Giacomelli. He descended to BC and arrived at 8 pm. 

  Hauer and Kirbach left C3 at 9:30 am. Weather was changeable. View from summit Ok. Descended to C3 and arrived at 3:45 pm. Hauer had noticed his frostbite (2 last fingers on left hand). The previous night he got them when he was climbing up to C3 on 21 Oct but climbed to summit the next day. He had no pain and did not go to hospital in Kathmandu, but thinks it's second degree.

  Trotter, Semmel and Pemba left C3 at 7:20. Weather very clear but very cold, about -20 degrees. Descended to BC and arrived at 8 pm.


expid: AMAD05312
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Michel Pelle
sponsor: French Team to Ama Dablam
approach: Lukla->Pangboche
bcdate: 2005-10-13
smtdate: 2005-10-25
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2005-10-26
campsites: BC(13/10,4600m),C1(18/10,5400m),C3(24/10,6300m),Smt(25/10)
agency: Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
routememo:
  Delalle, Ang Tshering and Nima Gyalgen left C3 at 6:30 am. Weather was windy but clear. Team descended to BC after summit and arrived at 7 pm.

  Pelle did not climb above C1 as he lacked motivation. 

  Flament did not climb above C1 due to stomach problems. She left BC on 21 Oct.

  Machado climbed to C1. But had to turn back due to sprained ankle. He sprained it playing tennis in France. He left BC on 21 Oct.


expid: AMAD05313
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Alexander Giacomelli
sponsor: Independent team on Ama Dablam (on Amical permit)
approach: Lukla->Pangboche
bcdate: 2005-10-11
smtdate: 2005-10-21
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2005-10-25
campsites: BC(11/10,4600m),C1(15/10,5800m),C2(19/10,6000m),C3(20/10,6360m),Smt(21,23/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Giacomelli left C3 at 7 am. He climbed with Gschwendtner from Amical. Weather was cloudy but not windy. They descended to BC and arrived at 8 pm.

  Team shared facilities with German Amical team and actually climbed with them.


expid: AMAD05314
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Israel
leaders: Danny (Denis) Gordin
sponsor: Independent climber on Ama Dablam
approach: Everest BC Trek->Pangboche
bcdate: 2005-10-15
smtdate: 2005-10-25
smttime: 1040
termdate: 2005-10-26
campsites: BC(15/10,4600m),C1(19/10,5800m),C2(20/10,6000m),C3(24/10,6300m),Smt(25/10)
agency: Parikarma Treks
routememo:
  Gordin left C3 at 7:40 am. The weather was clear. After summiting he descended to BC, where he arrived at 8:45 pm. It was foggy when he arrived. He left BC the same day.

  He joined Beneditti on his climb.


expid: AMAD05315
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: David Ridley
sponsor: Australians on Ama Dablam
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2005-10-10
smtdate: 2005-10-25
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2005-10-29
campsites: BC(10/10,4676m),C1(22/10,5800m),C2(23/10,5900m),C3(24/10,6350m),Smt(25/10)
agency: Sea to Summit Trekking
routememo:
  Fisher, Ridley and Furwa Sherpa left C3 on 25 Sept at 07:30 hours, summited between 10:00-10:30 hours, stayed on summit about half an hour, returned to C3 between 12:00-12:30 hours. Next day to BC. Weather was good but while descending it became very windy. Before the Ridley team there were three Sherpas were on summit and behind Ridley team there were two French, two Spanish and one American. 

  The expedition team returned to KTM on Nov 2 and will leave on Nov 4.

  Sherpas:
    Furwa Sherpa (2028-5-2) Beni, VDC Ward 8, Solukhumbu


expid: AMAD05316
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Tim Rippel
sponsor: Peak Freaks Ama Dablam Expedition 2005
countries: UK
bcdate: 2005-10-01
smtdate: 2005-10-11
termdate: 2005-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to members' inability to acclimatize
campsites: BC(01/10,4600m),ABC(05/10,5250m),C1(07/10,5700m),xxx(11/10,5900m)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  All four members had difficulty sleeping at BC. All members went to ABC on 5 Oct but again sleeping problem and all down to BC 6 Oct. On 9 Oct Bailey, Buckley and Lavers left expedition. Johnstone and Rippel went to C1 on 10 Oct and next day both went to high point of 5900m (just below C2 site), where Johnstone decided he could not go on. 12 Oct to BC and climb finished. Members, who lived at low altitudes and had never gone much higher, were out of their element.


expid: ANN105301
peakid: ANN1
year: 2005
route1: N Face
nation: Slovakia
leaders: Jan Matlak
sponsor: Slovak Army Mountaineering Club Rohache Annapurna I Expedition
approach: Beni->Tatopani
bcdate: 2005-09-09
smtdate: 2005-10-04
termdate: 2005-10-10
termnote: Abandoned at 8050m due to Supica's fall, lack of time
campsites: BC(09/09,4300m),ABC(12/09,5000m),C1(21/09,5600m),C2(26/09,6500m),C3(01/10,7200m),xxx(04/10,8050m)
agency: Nepal Trans Himalayan Explorer
routememo:
  For summit push team left C3 at 2 am. They got to 8050m when Supica slipped and slid down the couloir. For about 300m he managed to self-arrest and did not hurt himself. He slipped again on way down about 300m above C3 and sprained his ankle. Team would have carried on and probably summited if Supica had not fallen. 

  Sherpa Dendi (3X Everest) had his tooth taken out by Harendarick due to infection on 26 Sept. On 28 Sept he climbed up from C1 to fix rope. At about 6000m he was hit by an avalanche. He managed to jump into a hole for protection. He injured his left arm (contusion of muscle).

  Nemcon got frostbite on 5 toes on right foot and 3 on left foot (2nd Degree). He noticed after 2nd summit push at C3.

  Supica got frostbite on 3 toes on left foot (1st degree).

  Team had another summit attempt on 6 Oct. Mysiak, Nemcok and Svancar got to 7700m but turned back at 12 noon due to much snow.

  Bizon got to C1 but abandoned climb due to back pain.
  Hanzel and Holy got to C2 but abandoned climb due to fatigue.
  Harendarick to C1 but didn't want to go higher as his duty was being the exped
    doctor.
  Vargic got to C1 but lacked motivation to go on.
  Lhakpa Sherpa got to 7500m on 4 Oct but turned back due to cold hands.


expid: ANN405301
peakid: ANN4
year: 2005
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Reinhold Oblak
sponsor: Environmental Expedition to Annapurna IV
approach: Hongde
bcdate: 2005-10-04
smtdate: 2005-10-10
termdate: 2005-10-13
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to exhaustion, pulmonary edema, high altitude sickness causing fatality
campsites: BC(04/10,4810m),C1(06/10,5450m),C2(08/10,5910m),C3(09/10,6500m),C4(10/10,6900m),xxx(10/10)
agency: Blue Sky Treks
routememo:
  Schiempfoessl and Oblak stayed at C4. Schiempfoessl felt [headache] on the first half of the night. But got worse and at about 2 am he started hearing the water in his lungs. They left C4 at 6 am 11 Oct (roped together) and at about 1 pm he collapsed and died immediately (just above C3 at 6500m). Oblak and Dorje Sherpa carried him to C3 and wrapped him up. They left him there as the conditions were too bad (too much snow) to carry him down. Oblak and Sherpas descended to C1, where they arrived at dusk.

  Ulrich Walser, Peter Farmer and Ulrike Farmer got to C3 on 11 Oct but descended to C1 due to high altitude sickness of Schiempfoessl.

  The whole team was back at C1 on 11 Oct. They descended to BC on 12 Oct. They walked to Besisahar where they arrived on 17 Oct.

  Oblak flew back to KTM on 18 Oct and will leave for Austria on 20 Oct.

  Schiempfoessl's body is still at C3 but will be transported down in the next few days.


expid: ANN405302
peakid: ANN4
year: 2005
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Richard Bolt
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Annapurna IV Expedition 2005
countries: Germany
approach: Pokhara->Hongde by plane
bcdate: 2005-10-14
smtdate: 2005-10-18
termdate: 2005-10-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to too much snow
campsites: BC(14/10,4800m),C1(18/10,5400m),xxx(18/10,6200m)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  Jost and Moser climbed to C1 on 19 Oct and stayed one night. The other members carried loads to C1 and descended to BC. They were going to go up again on 20 Oct. But it started to snow. Bolt and 3 Sherpas put up C2 on 18 Oct. The team was stuck at BC from 20 Oct to 27 Oct. Bolt climbed to C2 on 27 Oct but the 5 tents and gear were completely covered in snow (2 meters). He did not dig it out. Sherpas dug out six tents and gear at C1. He said there was no avalanche danger but the snow was just too deep to climb.


expid: CHOY05301
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Juan Vizcaino Aranda
sponsor: Spanish Expedition to Cho Oyu
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2005-09-11
smtdate: 2005-09-28
smttime: 1345
termdate: 2005-10-08
campsites: BC(11/09,4900m),C1(18/09,6400m),C2(26/09,7100m),C3(27/09,7400m),Smt(28/09,04/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Quesada left C3 at 8 am and spent about 5 min on the summit. She descended to C2 where she arrived at 6 pm.

  Aranda and Aguirre left C3 at 4:45 am and spent about one hour on the summit. They descended to C2 where they arrived at 4 pm.

  Gimenez got to C3 but did not carry on due to cold and fatigue.

  Martin-Forero turned back below rock band due to very cold hands.


expid: CHOY05302
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Juan Marcos Alvarez
sponsor: Castilla y Leon Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2005-09-12
smtdate: 2005-10-04
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2005-10-07
campsites: BC(12/09,4900m),ABC(14/09,5700m),C1(17/09,6400m),C2(21/09,7100m),C3(03/10,7400m),Smt(04/10)
agency: Sherpa Alpine Trekking
routememo:
  Salamanca left C3 4:45 am. He met two Australians going up. He descended to C3 where he arrived at 6 pm.

  San Segundo and Gonzalez climbed to C2, but abandoned climb due to fatigue.

  Marcos Alvarez got to C3 on 30 Sept, but abandoned climb as he was alone and lacked motivation.

  Rodrigues Calvo did not get above C1 as he had stomach problems.


expid: CHOY05303
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Andreu Ferrer
sponsor: Vilanova 8000 Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2005-09-09
smtdate: 2005-10-02
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2005-10-07
campsites: BC(09/09,4900m),ABC(11/09,5700m),C1(15/09,6400m),C2(18/09,7100m),C3(22/09,7400m),Smt(02-03/10)
accidents: Frostbite on toes
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Team that summited on 2 Oct left C3 at 6:30 am (Nepali). Group left late due to bad boots (they were not warm enough). They stayed for 15 minutes on summit. Marcelli descended to C3, other 2 to C2, where they arrived at 8 pm.

  Guinovart Callejon left C3 at 7 am and descended to C2 at 5:30 pm.

  Orriols Caba got frostbite (2nd degree) on 1st summit attempt on 23 Sept. He got to 8000m but turned back due to onslaught of cerebral edema. One of the British doctors (Jeremy) helped him down to C3. When he arrived at C3 he was better but noticed his frostbite. He stayed in ABC until group left.

  Cabuti Calatayud did not summit as he was not feeling well on summit push. He had problems with his stomach. He turned back at about 6700m.


expid: CHOY05304
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Norway
leaders: Einar Osland
sponsor: Cho Oyu unarmed
countries: Denmark
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2005-09-16
smtdate: 2005-10-01
smttime: 0735
termdate: 2005-10-05
campsites: BC(16/09,4900m),ABC(18/09,5700m),C1(24/09,6400m),C2(29/09,7100m),C3(30/09,7400m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Dawa Tshering Sherpa
routememo:
  Team left C3 at 2 am (Nepali) and arrived there between 7:35 am and 8:50 am (Nepali). They descended to C2 where they arrived at 3 pm. Pederson had no arms but has a prosthesis on the right side. He said the rock band was the only difficulty but Dawa Chhiri who climbed with him was very helpful and "pushed" him up.

  * All Sherpas and Stian Voldmo climbed without oxygen

  Sherpa Summiters:
    Nawang Thapa Sherpa, Beding, BS 2008 (1951-2), Cho Oyu X3?
    Nawang Tenzing Sherpa, Beding, Cho Oyu X3
    Kilu Pempa Sherpa, Beding, 1983? 16/5/80, Everest X2, Manaslu X12, Cho Oyu X1
    Dawa Chhiri Sherpa, Beding, 3/8/71, Cho Oyu X4, Everest X4


expid: CHOY05305
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Sweden
leaders: Mathais Markland
sponsor: Team SAD (Swedish Adventure Dreams) Cho Oyu Expedition 2005
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2005-09-08
smtdate: 2005-09-29
smttime: 0945
termdate: 2005-10-02
campsites: BC(08/09,5000m),ABC(11/09,5700m),C1(14/09,6400m),C2(22/09,7100m),C3(28/09,7550m),Smt(29/09)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC  at CBC/IC on 10th at 5300m
  ABC at usual campsite
  C1  at usual campsite
  C2  at usual campsite
  C3  at usual campsite.

  Emberg and both Markunds left C3 at 02:00 hours (Chinese), summited at 09:45 hours,  stayed half an hour, reached to C2 at 16:00 hours, they stayed at C3 for about 3 hours. Two people were ahead of the team on summit, maybe from Summit Club. No more people on that day. It was a clear and very cold and windy on that day. Saw Everest, Lhotse. The team returned to KTM on Oct 3 adnd will try to leave soon.


expid: CHOY05306
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Cesare Cesa Bianchi
sponsor: Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2005-09-16
smtdate: 2005-10-02
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2005-10-05
campsites: BC(16/09,5690m),ABC(19/09,5690m),C1(21/09,6400m),C2(26/09,7200m),Smt(02/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 18th at about 5400m.

  Cesa Bianchi and Ang Phurba left C2 at midnight (NST) of Oct 1. Summited at 09:00 hours, stayed about 30 minutes back to C2 at 12:30 hours. Weather was clear, not too cold, no wind, no cloud, clear view of Everest, Lhotse and other mountains. Way down met 3 Spanish who also summited the mountain. 

  Member Prati went up to C1, it was difficult for him to acclimatize, became weak.

  Spinelli climbed up to C2; he was Ok but he had to leave due to problem of his job. He left ABC maybe on 29 or 30th. He left Nepal on Oct 4.

  The team returned to KTM on Oct 6 and trying to leave on 8th.


expid: CHOY05307
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Poland
leaders: Stanislav Barabas
sponsor: Polish Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2005-09-08
smtdate: 2005-09-28
smttime: 1425
termdate: 2005-10-02
campsites: BC(08/08,5000m),ABC(11/09,5700m),C1(15/09,6400m),C2(20/09,7150m),C3(27/09,7550m),Smt(28/09)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC  at CBC/IC on 10th at 5300m only
  ABC at usual campsite 
  C1  at usual campsite
  C2  at usual campsite
  C3  at usual campsite.

  Baranska and Barabas left C3 at 07:30 hours (Chinese), Baraska summited at 16:40 hours and Barabas on top at 17:10 hours, stayed at summit about 30 minutes, back to C3 at 20:30 hours. The team was the last one to summit on that day. It was the perfect weather clear day. About 15 people summited that day not sure. Saw Everest, Lhotse. They returned to KTM on Oct 3 and trying to leave on the 5th. 

  The other member Krolak reached up to 6500m. For him it was first time in the mountain and he was not prepared for climbing.


expid: CHOY05308
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Ecuador
leaders: Patricio Tisalema Torres
sponsor: Seven Summits Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2005-09-10
smtdate: 2005-09-24
smttime: 1045
termdate: 2005-09-27
campsites: BC(10/09,5000m),ABC(11/09,5700m),C1(12/09,6400m),C2(15/09,7000m),C3(20/09,7300m),Smt(24/09)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC  at CBC  
  ABC at usual campsite
  C1  at usual campsite
  C2  at usual campsite
  C3  at usual campsite.

  Left C2 at 03:00 hours (Chinese Time) on Sept 24, summited at 13:00 hours (10:45 NST), stayed on summit about 30 minutes. Descended to C2 at 17:00 hours. Next day to ABC. Good weather. Torres was with the Sherpa of Irish Expedition. Behind Torres were one Japanese and a Sherpa and about 5 Irish. While descending met one Spanish. Torres saw Everest-Lhotse. Torres may come for Everest in Spring. Torres returned to KTM on Sept 28 and leaving on 30th.


expid: CHOY05309
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Brazil
leaders: Helena Coelho
sponsor: Independent climber
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2005-09-13
smtdate: 2005-09-30
termdate: 2005-10-09
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to coldness and severe headache
campsites: BC(13/09,4900m),ABC(16/09,5800m),C1(19/09,6400m),C2(20/09,7200m),xxx(30/09,7300m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on Sept 15 (5300m)
  High point at below C3 site.

  Coelho Went to C2 on Oct 2, for summit push. But due to excessive cold, she turned back to ABC on Oct 4. When she reached ABC she suffered from severe headache, which she said never happen with her before on any mountain. Coelho returned to KTM on Oct 11 and trying to leave on the 12th.


expid: CHOY05310
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Nicola Cozzio
sponsor: La Dea del Turchese
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2005-09-10
smtdate: 2005-09-26
termdate: 2005-09-28
termnote: Abandoned at 7990m due to cold hands and feet
campsites: BC(10/09,5000m),ABC(12/09,5500m),C1(16/09,6500m),C2(24/09,7200m),C3(25/09,7700m),xxx(26/09,7900m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC at about CBC
  C3 (spent night only Cozzio).

  Cozzio left C3 on Sept 26 at 01:00 hours (NST), reached at 7900m at about 02:00 hours. Felt his hands very cold and turned back to ABC same day. 

  Pouli went up to C2 on 24th. Spent a night there then turn back to ABC as he felt his feet very cold. 

  Weather was good but very cold. According to Cozzio and Pouli, people who summited on 26th were one German, one French. Allen may be one Italian with oxygen with one Sherpa. The two-member team returned to KTM on Sept 28 and will leave on 30th.


expid: CHOY05311
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Eloise Barbieri
sponsor: Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2005-09-15
smtdate: 2005-09-27
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2005-10-04
campsites: BC(15/09,4900m),ABC(19/09,5760m),C1(24/09,6480m),C2(26/09,7100m),Smt(27/09)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at CBC/BC on 18th at about 5400m
  ABC at usual campsite
  C1  at usual campsite
  C2  at usual campsite.

  Barbieri and Tamang left C2 on 27 at 01:00 hours NST, reached summit at 10:00 hours, stayed on summit about 30 minutes, back to C2 at 15:00 hours. Tamang had to stop at about 400m below the summit as he felt dizziness and breathing problems. Tamang was waiting for Barbieri at that point and returned together to C2. Weather was very good. Saw Everest and other mountains. It was fantastic. Two climbers were on summit before her, maybe from Turkey and Switzerland (not sure about nationality) and behind her was a Spanish girl. 4 people summited on that day.

  Barbieri returned to Kathmandu on Oct 6 and will leave on Oct 13. Planning to spend some time in Nagarkot. She is planning to come for Lhotse next year.


expid: CHOY05312
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Manuel Benito Manchado
sponsor: Spanish Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2005-09-09
smtdate: 2005-09-20
termdate: 2005-10-02
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to excessive cold
campsites: BC(09/09,4800m),ABC(12/09,5600m),C1(17/09,6400m),C2(20/09,7200m),xxx(20/09,7200m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 11th at 5200m
  C1 at usual campsite
  C2 at usual campsite.

  All the members were at C2. Weather was good. But members felt very cold and decided not to continue climbing.


expid: CHOY05313
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Frank Ziebarth
sponsor: Ziebarth Solo to Cho Oyu
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2005-09-08
smtdate: 2005-09-28
smttime: 0745
termdate: 2005-10-02
campsites: BC(08/09,4900m),ABC(11/09,5700m),C1(15/09,6400m),C2(20/09,7100m),C3(27/09,7400m),Smt(28/09)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Ziebarth left C3 at 1:30 am (Chinese time) and spent about 20 minutes on summit. He descended to C2, where he arrived at 4:30 pm (CST). Next day to ABC.


expid: CHOY05314
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Dirk Grunert
sponsor: Independent climber on Cho Oyu
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2005-09-09
smtdate: 2005-09-26
smttime: 0815
termdate: 2005-09-30
campsites: BC(09/09,4900m),ABC(13/09,5700m),C1(18/09,6400m),C2(24/09,7100m),C3(25/09,7400m),Smt(26/09)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Grunert left C3 at 2 am (NT) and spent about one hour on summit. He descended to C3, where he arrived at 5 am. Next day he descended to C1 and following day to ABC.


expid: CHOY05315
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Noel Urban
sponsor: Urban Tibet Ski Expedition to Cho Oyu
countries: Netherlands
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2005-09-01
smtdate: 2005-09-20
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2005-09-23
campsites: BC(01/09,4900m),ABC(04/09,5700m),C1(08/09,6400m),C2(12/09,7100m),C3(19/09,7400m),Smt(20/09)
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  Team left C3 at 5:30 am (C1). They were the 1st team to summit this season. It was hard work as they broke trail through about 40 cm of snow.

  Urban skied from the summit to C2 without taking his skis off once. He arrived there at 7 pm (C1). He skied down right of ascending route. Other 2 members walked to C2.

  Team went to Xixapangma (South Side). Brun summit on 04 Oct. Urban got to 7500m but turned back due to cold feet. Bonhomme got to 6600m but turned back due to fatigue.


expid: CHOY05316
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Dirk Groeger
sponsor: Amical Alpin Cho Oyu Expedition 2005
countries: Austria, Italy, Switzerland
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2005-09-02
smtdate: 2005-09-26
smttime: 0845
termdate: 2005-09-30
campsites: BC(02/09,4900m),ABC(05/09,5700m),C1(13/09,6400m),C2(18/09,7100m),C3(25/09,7400m),Smt(26/09)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Team left C3 at 3:30 am, spent about half an hour on summit and got back to C2 at 12:30 pm. Studer and Groeger descended to C1 and got there at 5 pm. Summit times 8:45-10:00 NST.

  Raisch used Todd's oxygen from C3 down to 7800m. He climbed with Pasang Dawa from Pangboche (5X Everest, 4X Cho Oyu) who works for Henry Todd.

  Bolay got to Yellow Band but turned around due to exhaustion.
  Czerny went back to KTM on 4 Sept as he was not feeling well.


expid: CHOY05317
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Austria
leaders: Konrad Schreiber
sponsor: Cho Oyu Expedition 2005
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2005-09-14
smtdate: 2005-10-04
smttime: 1245
termdate: 2005-10-07
campsites: BC(14/09,4900m),ABC(16/09,5700m),C1(19/09,6400m),C2(26/09,7100m),C3(03/10,7400m),Smt(04/10)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Schember and Wieser left C3 at 3:30 am and spent about 30 minutes on summit. They descended to C2 where they arrived at 5 pm.

  Weather on summit was very cloudy. They could not see anything. But said they got to where the flags are.

  Hammerschmied got to about 7000m on 19 Sept. He abandoned climb due to mild AMS.


expid: CHOY05318
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Armin Mueller
sponsor: Schwaebisch-Sachsische Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Beijing->Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2005-09-10
smtdate: 2005-09-26
smttime: 0806
termdate: 2005-09-29
campsites: BC(10/09,4700m),ABC(12/09,5600m),C1(15/09,6400m),C2(16/09,7100m),C3(25/09,7400m),Smt(26/09)
agency: Tibetan agent
routememo:
  Mueller left C3 at 0:30 am. He spent about one hour on the summit and planted a free Tibet flag. He descended all the way to C1, where he arrived at 3 pm Chinese time.

  Kuust and Gerster climbed to C1 on 24 Sept. However they were too tired to carry on their cooker and it did not work, so they went back to ABC the next day.


expid: CHOY05319
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Seba Illingworth
sponsor: Cho Oyu Team
countries: UK
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2005-09-09
smtdate: 2005-09-28
smttime: 0845
termdate: 2005-09-30
campsites: BC(09/09,4900m),ABC(11/09,5700m),C1(16/09,6400m),C2(19/09,7100m),C3(27/09,7400m),Smt(28/09)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  BC at Chinese BC.

  Norris left C3 at 1:45 am and spent about 20 minutes on the summit. He went down to C1 where he arrived at 5:45 pm (Nepali Time).

  Illingworth left on 14 Sept due to a fractured ankle (he broke it in New Zealand in August, 3 weeks prior to coming to Nepal).


expid: CHOY05320
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Kazafumi Watanabe
sponsor: Independent climber on Cho Oyu
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2005-09-13
smtdate: 2005-10-04
termdate: 2005-10-07
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to fatigue and weakness
campsites: BC(13/09,4900m),ABC(16/09,5750m),C1(18/09,6400m),C2(21/09,7100m),C3(02/10,7600m),xxx(04/10,7900m)
accidents: Watanabe suffered from stomach problem and vomiting beginning from Oct 6
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 14th about 5200m
  High point on the shoulder of Cho Oyu.

  On Oct 4 Watanabe left C3 at 07:00 hours (NST), reached at 7900m at noon, returned to C3 about 14:00 hours. Next day to C1 following day to ABC; it took Watanabe 8 hours to reach ABC, normally it takes 2 hours. Weather was good, no wind. According to Watanabe, 4 Spanish (Thamserku Agency) and 2 Austrians summited on that day. Watanabe returned to KTM on Oct 8 and trying to leave on 10th. He said he will come back for Cho Oyu in spring.


expid: CHOY05321
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: India
leaders: Shekhar Babu Bachinepally
sponsor: Independent climber on Cho Oyu
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2005-08-30
smtdate: 2005-09-21
termdate: 2005-09-25
termnote: Abandoned at 8132m due to weather conditions and wind burn of eyes of Pasang
campsites: BC(30/08,5700m),ABC(03/09,5700m),C2(14/09,7100m),C3(20/09,7400m),xxx(21/09,8132m)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  BC  at CBC/IC, Sept 1 
  ABC at usual campsite
  C1  at usual campsite
  C2  at usual campsite
  C3  at usual campsite
  High point at little above the shoulder.

  On Sept 21 left C3 at 04:30 hours (NST). Reached to 8132m at around 13:0-00:40, but very windy, snowfall, visibility was poor then descended to C3 around 15:30 hours. Next day to C2. Pasang was helped by other two Sherpas to descend. Ahead of Bachinepally team, Alpine ascent team summited with oxygen.


expid: CHOY05322
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Shoji Shimizu
sponsor: Independent climber
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2005-09-08
smtdate: 2005-09-24
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2005-09-29
campsites: BC(08/09,4900m),ABC(12/09,5700m),C1(15/09,6400m),C2(17/09,7100m),C3(23/09,7400m),Smt(24/09)
agency: Himalayan Sherpa Adventure
routememo:
  Team left C3 at 2:30 am and spent about 5 minutes on summit. Shimizu used oxygen to the summit but did not use it on the way down because he didn't like it. They descended to C2 where they arrived at 11 am.

  After climb they went to Xixabangma. They arrived on 1 Oct at BC. They reached the Central Summit on 8 Oct at 7 am Nepali Time. They got back to KTM on 13 Oct.


expid: CHOY05323
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Kenji Kondo
sponsor: Adventure Guides Cho Oyu Expedition 2005
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2005-09-13
smtdate: 2005-09-28
smttime: 0610
termdate: 2005-10-02
campsites: BC(13/09,5000m),ABC(17/09,5600m),C1(20/09,6450m),C2(26/09,7100m),C3(27/09,7550m),Smt(28/09)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  BC at about CBC/IC on 16 at 5300m.

  Kondo, Ogawa, Sashisaki and three Sherpas left C3 at 02:25 hours (NST) on 28th. Summited at 06:10 hours. Stayed about 30 minutes, down to ABC at 15:00 hours. One Sherpa stayed at C2 and one in C1. Weather was quite good, clear sky, no clouds, no wind. Saw Everest, Lhotse, etc. The team was the first to summit on that day. About 30 people summited on that day.

  Kondo guesses Mrs Takashita climbed up to C1 on 20th. Next day to ABC. She was not strong enough to continue; besides her face was swollen a bit at C1. She was given Diamox. She is Ok at ABC. 

  The team returned to KTM on Oct 3 and will depart on Oct 11. They may visit Chitwan and other places before leaving the country.


expid: CHOY05324
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Michael Roberts
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Cho Oyu Expedition
countries: Australia, Brazil, Sweden, UK, USA
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2005-09-06
smtdate: 2005-09-25
smttime: 0711
termdate: 2005-09-29
campsites: BC(06/09,4900m),ABC(09/09,5600m),C1(14/09,6400m),C2(23/09,7100m),C3(24/09,7400m),Smt(25/09)
achievment: 1st Brazilian Woman
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC at Chinese BC.

  Team left C3 at 1 am, summited between 7:11-7:30 am (NST), and returned to C2. 

  Andrade did not get beyond C1 due to breathing difficulties after climbing.
  Browne got to 7000m and experienced AMS symptoms and turned around.

  Sherpa:
    Nawang Chhangba, 13/9/69


expid: CHOY05325
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Nepal
leaders: Pemba Doma Sherpa
sponsor: Climb High Cho Oyu Expedition
countries: Austria, Canada, USA
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2005-09-11
smtdate: 2005-09-28
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2005-09-30
campsites: BC(11/09,4900m),ABC(14/09,5700m),C1(20/09,6400m),C2(26/09,7100m),C3(27/09,7400m),Smt(28/09)
agency: Climb High Himalaya
routememo:
  Group left C3 2:30 am, summited from 7:00-8:30 am (NST), and spent about 1-2 hours on summit. They descended to C2 and arrived at 4 pm.

  Campbell got to C1 on 17 Sept. He didn't go on due to chest problems. He left ABC on 28 Sept.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Tshering, Thamo, Everest X4


expid: CHOY05326
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Australia
leaders: Andrew Lock
countries: Germany, Spain
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2005-09-07
smtdate: 2005-09-25
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2005-09-28
campsites: BC(07/09,4900m),ABC(11/09,5600m),C1(16/09,6400m),C2(18/09,7100m),Smt(25/09)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  Andrew and Inigo left C2 on 24 Sept at around midnight and summited at 8:30 am Nepali time. They descended to C2 where they arrived at 12:20 pm. The next day they descended to ABC.

  Billi stayed two nights at C2. However, after having descended to ABC she felt too weak to go back up.


expid: CHOY05327
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Cho Oyu Expedition 2005
countries: Australia, Denmark, France, Kuwait, Switzerland
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2005-09-01
smtdate: 2005-09-22
smttime: 1220
termdate: 2005-09-26
campsites: BC(01-05/09,5004m),ABC(08/09,5669m),C1(15/09,6400m),C2(20/09,7100m),C3(21/09,7400m),Smt(22/09)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  BC at Chinese BC.

  Team summited between 12:20-1:15 pm Nepali time. They left C3 at 6 am (NT) and returned to C2 after climb (between 3 pm and 5 pm).

  Hallam turned back at 7400m due to fatigue. 
  Lehuin turned back at 7600m because he was too slow.
  Lieters only climbed to C1 due to exhaustion.

  Russell Brice has climbed Cho Oyu for 9th time; Lopsang Temba has climbed it 7 times.


expid: CHOY05328
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: S Africa
leaders: Michael Patterson
sponsor: Independent team on Cho Oyu
countries: Australia, Philippines
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2005-09-08
smtdate: 2005-09-26
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2005-09-30
campsites: BC(08/10,4950m),ABC(12/09,5800m),C1(17/09,6400m),C2(24/09,7100m),C3(25/09,7500m),Smt(26/09)
achievment: 1st Filippino on Cho Oyu summit
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  BC  at CBC/IC on Sept 11 at 5450m
  ABC at usual campsite
  C1  at usual campsite
  C2  at usual campsite
  C3  at usual campsite.

  Garduce, Patterson, Wells and two Sherpas left C3 at 01:00 hours (NST). Wells summited at 07:00 hours, spent about 30 minutes, descended to C2 at 15:30 hours. Garduce summited at 10:30 hours, stayed about 20 minutes, reached C2 at 17:00 hours. Patterson summited at around 10:40 hours without oxygen, stayed on summit about 30 minutes, reached C3 at 17:00 hours. Next day all reached ABC. Before this team, there was a French and German on the summit. About 8 people summited on that day. Weather was very good; all the members saw Everest in clear weather. Garduce may come for Everest in the spring. The team returned to KTM on Oct 1 and trying to leave Patterson on Oct 3, Garduce on Oct 4 and Wells on Oct 6. 

  Note: Oxygen used: Garduce and Wells used oxygen from C3 to summit and to C2. Patterson and Sherpas did not use oxygen.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Rendu Sherpa from Sotang VDC 6, Solukhumbu
      Date of Birth:  2024-8-2   18 Nov '67
    Phura Dorjee Sherpa, Sotang, VDC 5, Solu
      Date of Birth:  2023-9-19   3 Jan '68


  Cho Oyu (Patterson)
  South Africa Phillipine
  Email from Phillipine member

  I climbed with Lhakpa Rendu, together until summit. We arrived around 10:30 am time Sept 26. Phura climbed up and down with Pete, together.


expid: CHOY05329
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Henry Todd
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Cho Oyu Expedition 2005
countries: Hungary, USA
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2005-09-05
smtdate: 2005-09-25
smttime: 0840
termdate: 2005-09-28
campsites: BC(05/09,4900m),ABC(07/09,5700m),C1(14/09,6400m),C2(16/09,7100m),Smt(25/09)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Patel got as far as Interim camp and abandoned climb to physical exhaustion. Todd went to 6900m but turned back due to fatigue.

  ACS left C2 at midnight Nepali time got to summit at 8:40 am (Nepali Time) and returned to ABC the same day (8 pm).


expid: CHOY05330
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: John Eames
sponsor: Jagged Globe Cho Oyu Expedition 2005
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2005-09-04
smtdate: 2005-09-28
smttime: 1015
termdate: 2005-10-02
campsites: BC(04/09,4900m),ABC(07/09,5700m),C1(13/09,6400m),C2(20/09,7100m),C3(27/09,7400m),Smt(28/09)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  Team left C3 at 2 am and spent about 30 minutes on summit. They descended to C2, where they arrived at 5 pm.

  Curtis abandoned the climb at 6600m due to sore ankle which she sprained previously coming down from C2.

  Rutland abandoned climb at C3. He did not feel very well and descended to C2 on 28 Sept.

  * Box did not use oxygen; neither did Sherpas.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Nawang Pasang, aka Ngawang Pasang, 16/10/78 says passport, 16/8/80 he says,
       Beding, Everest 16/5/04 and 3/6/05
    Pema Tharki, 19/5/61, Beding, 1st 8000er
    Pema Chhiri/Tshering, 14/2/80, Chankhu-6, Dolakha, Everest 31/5/05


expid: CHOY05331
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Nathan Figg
sponsor: Hampshire Scotts Expedition to Cho Oyu
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2005-09-27
smtdate: 2005-10-07
termdate: 2005-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to high winds
campsites: BC(27/09,4900m),ABC(29/09,5700m),C1(03/10,6400m),C2(07/10,7100m),xxx(07/10,7100m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Team stayed 1 night at C2 and descended to ABC on 8 Oct. They had 2 rest days. On 11 Oct they went to C1 and due to high wind. They decided to abandon climb the next day. The two Sherpas went back up to C2 to clear out.

  Team used oxygen from C1 because they tested summit oxygen (company has had 70 percent failure rate in two years!!) However, team was happy with oxygen - it worked well.

  Sherpas:
    Naga Dorje, Khumjung, (4X Cho Oyu before)
    Karchen Dawa, Khumjung, (3X Cho Oyu before)

  Smith started having problems with his eye at C1 and abandoned climb on 3 Oct; it was determined to be retinal hemorrhage.

  Frid abandoned climb due to bronchitis; he got to C1 on 3 Oct.


expid: CHOY05332
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Marc Nowak
sponsor: Independent team on Cho Oyu
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2005-09-06
smtdate: 2005-09-26
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2005-09-29
campsites: BC(06/09,4900m),ABC(08/09,5700m),C1(13/09,6400m),C2(17/09,7100m),C3(25/09,7400m),Smt(26/09)
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  Rodriguez climbed to C1 on 23 Sept and abandoned climb due to fatigue.
  Vercelli climbed to C2 on 24 Sept and abandoned climb due to fatigue.

  Team left C3 at 1 am and went to C2 on descent.


expid: CHOY05333
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Ireland
leaders: Roger McMarrow
sponsor: Anglo-Irish Cho Oyu Xtreme Expedition
countries: UK
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2005-09-03
smtdate: 2005-09-24
smttime: 1050
termdate: 2005-09-30
campsites: BC(03/09,4700m),ABC(09/09,5600m),C1(15/09,6400m),C2(18/09,7100m),C3(23/09,7400m),Smt(24-25/09)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  The team that summited on 24 Sept left C3 at 2:30 am. Szawarski and Ahuja descended to C2 where they arrived at around 6 pm. Windsor and O'Dwyer descended to C3, where they arrived at 4 pm. Windsor accompanied Carlos from Catalan team to C3 who was suffering from cerebral edema.

  McMorrow, Hart and Namgyal Sherpa (who had summited on 24 Sept and waited at C3 for McMorrow and Hart) left C3 for summit at 3:50 am. They put up a tent on summit to take arterial blood from Hart. They spent 1 hour and 10 minutes there. They got to C3 at 1 pm and carried on to C2, where they arrived at 4 pm and spent the night.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Namgyal Sherpa, Rakha-5, Khotang, 5/10/1977, Cho Oyu X3, Everest X1
    Pasang Sherpa, Sotang-6, Solu, 31/7/60, no 8000ers
    Da Ongchuu Sherpa, Kurima, Lokhim-9, 16/4/79, no 8000ers


expid: CHOY05334
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Belgium
leaders: Edmund Spoden
sponsor: Belgian Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 2005-09-20
smtdate: 2005-10-09
smttime: 1040
termdate: 2005-10-12
campsites: BC(20/09),ABC(24/09,5800m),C1(30/09,6400m),C2(01/10,7000m),C3(08/10,7500m),Smt(09/10)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  Left C3 at 3: am NST and on top 10:40 am (saw Everest and Lhotse and on top many prayer flags), returned to C3 at 1:20 pm, then down to C2 and C1, when slept (arrived there 6:45 pm). 10 Oct to ABC. Gear in C2 stolen, probably by French man climbing alone.

  Sherpa:
    Tshering/Chhiring Dorje, 25/10/74, Beding, Cho Oyu X2, Manaslu X1, Everest X6


expid: CHOY05335
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Benoit Profit
sponsor: Atalante Cho Oyu Expedition 2005
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2005-09-06
smtdate: 2005-09-25
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2005-09-29
campsites: BC(06/09,4700m),ABC(08/09,5600m),C1(13/09,6400m),C2(18/09,7100m),C3(24/09,7400m),Smt(25-26/09)
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  Team 1 left C3 at 1 am and spent about 30 minutes on summit. They descended to C2 where they arrived at 3 pm.

  Team of 26 Sept left C3 at 2 am and descended to C2, where they arrived at 4 pm.

  Buysschart got to C3 on 25 Sept but abandoned due to fatigue. 
  Cabolde got to C2 but abandoned climb due to fatigue and stress. 
  David got to C3 but abandoned climb due to frostbite. 
  Kaltenmark got to C2 but abandoned climb due to stress.
  Pellard got to C2 but abandoned climb due to stress and lack of experience.
  Scheidecker got to C2 but was too slow to go up.

  Sherpas:
    Mingma Nuru Sherpa, 22/4/69, Everest X2
    Lhakpa Rita Sherpa, 4/9/71, Everest X1


expid: CHOY05336
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: David Morton
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Cho Oyu Expedition 2005
countries: UK
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2005-08-29
smtdate: 2005-09-21
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2005-09-24
othersmts: Attempted Xixabangma (Morton and Lhakpa Rita)
campsites: BC(29/08,4900m),ABC(03/09,5700m),C1(09/09,6400m),C2(14/09,7100m),C3(20/09,7400m),Smt(21/09)
accidents: Mingma Tshering tooth infection
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  Team left C3 at 4:30 am (NT) and spent 15 minutes on summit. They descended to C2, where they arrived at 6 pm (NT)

  Mrozek abandoned climb below C1 (6000m) due to fatigue. He left BC on 11 Sept.

  Morton and Lhakpa Rita went to Xixabangma south side. They got to 6200m and abandoned climb due to logistical problems (gear was wrongly sent back to KTM).


expid: CHOY05337
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Ray Yeritsian
sponsor: Independent climber on Cho Oyu
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2005-09-14
smtdate: 2005-10-03
termdate: 2005-10-07
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to slow climbing speed and lack of motivation
campsites: BC(14/09,5000m),ABC(16/09,5700m),C1(19/09,6400m),C2(22/09,7200m),xxx(03/10,7500m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Left C2 at noon on Oct 3, reached 7500m at 13:30 hours (about) and turned back to C1. Yeritsian thought he was not fast enough. 

  He is planning to come for Shishapangma next year. Yeritsian returned to KTM on Oct 8 and will leave on 10 Oct.


expid: CHOY05338
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: William Stevenson
sponsor: American Ski Expedition to Cho Oyu
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2005-09-09
smtdate: 2005-09-29
termdate: 2005-10-02
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to cold feet, pain in lungs
campsites: BC(09/09,4900m),ABC(12/09,5700m),C1(17/09,6400m),C2(24/09,7100m),C3(28/09,7400m),xxx(29/09,8100m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Team left 3:30 am (CST), turned back at (11:30 am) and descended to C2 (4 pm CST). McCann and Aasheim skied down from high point to C2 and next day to C1. They skied to right of yellow band and traversed back to C3. At icefall they went right of fixed rope. Very difficult as blue ice. They did not abseil down icefall (and then to ABC), but skied.

  Team decided to turn back due to cold feet and fear of frostbite. They wore ski boots.


expid: CHOY05339
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Canada
leaders: Jean-Pierre Danvoye
sponsor: L'Echappee Belle Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 2005-09-06
smtdate: 2005-09-26
smttime: 0810
termdate: 2005-09-29
campsites: BC(06/09,4900m),ABC(11/09,5600m),C1(16/09,6400m),C2(20/09,7100m),C3(25/09,7450m),Smt(26/09)
accidents: St. Pierre diarrhea and vomiting - could not continue climbing to C3
agency: Nomad Expeditions
routememo:
  BC  at CBC/IC Sept 10 - 5300m
  ABC at usual campsite
  C1  at usual campsite
  C2  at usual campsite
  C3  at usual campsite.

  Danvoye, Gelinas, Trahan and two Sherpas left C3 02:30 NST on Sept 26, summited at 08:10 hours, stayed on summit an hour, back to C3 between 10:30 to 10:45 hours, descended to C2 and slept there. Next day to ABC. Weather was very good, blue sky, no wind. Saw Everest-Lhotse. Ahead of them was Cyril (Monterosa) may be one hour ahead without oxygen. On the summit there were other two people and one Sherpa, some French from Atlante and others. Weather was very good between 25-27 Sept. The team returned to Kathmandu on Sept 30 and trying to leave in next two days. According to Donvoye there were 76 tents in ABC and 15 tents in C3. 

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa, Everest X6, Ama Dablam, Himlung and Annapurna in 2002
    Tendi Sherpa, Everest 2004


expid: CHOY05340
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Willie Benegas
sponsor: Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2005-09-05
smtdate: 2005-09-22
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2005-09-25
campsites: BC(05/09,4500m),ABC(07/09,5500m),C1(11/09,6330m),C2(13/09,7200m),C3(21/09,7550m),Smt(22/09)
achievment: Two female Americans ski descent to C1
agency: Nomad Expeditions
routememo:
  BC  at CBC
  ABC at usual campsite
  C1  at usual campsite
  C2  at usual campsite
  C3  at usual campsite.

  All four members left C3 at 06:30 hours (NST) on 22nd, summited at 13:00 hours, stayed about 10 minutes. Benegas descended to ABC where he arrived at 20:00 hours. O'Neil and Rigby ski descended to C2 at 17:00 hours. Spent night next day to ABC. Weather was good but lots of fresh knee-deep snow. Others on summit on that day were Russell Brice, plus 3 of his members and 3 of his Sherpas. 

  Team member Griber had to turn back from about 8000m as he was exhausted. The team returned to KTM on Sept 26. Benegas will leave on 27/8th and rest of the members on 29th. Benegas did not try the Spanish route because of snow conditions (too much snow). He may be coming for Everest in the spring either with Russell Brice or Mountain Madness, not sure. 

  Note oxygen: Benegas and O'Neil summited without oxygen, Rigby used oxygen from C3 to summit and on and off on descent to C2, Griber used oxygen from C3.


expid: CHOY05341
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Christopher Klinke
sponsor: Independent climber on Cho Oyu
approach: Lhasa->Xixabangma->Tingri
bcdate: 2005-10-06
smtdate: 2005-10-10
termdate: 2005-10-13
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to strong winds
othersmts: Climbed Xixabangma Central Summit
campsites: BC(06/10,4700m),ABC(07/10,5700m),C1(08/10,6400m),C2(09/10,7100m),xxx(10/10,7500m)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  On summit push they left C2 at 1:30 am. They got to C3 at 4:15 am. Due to strong winds they took shelter in a tent of another climbing team. They climbed up another 100m at 5:45 am, but turned back due to strong winds (about 60 km/hr). When they got out the tent at C3 it blew away. Team descended all the way to ABC, where they arrived at 11:30 am.

  Klinke climbed Central Summit before Cho Oyu (summit on 2 Oct).

  Temba Sherpa and Dawa Sherpa climbed with Klinke.


expid: CHOY05342
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Justin Merle
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Cho Oyu 2005
approach: Beijing->Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2005-08-31
smtdate: 2005-09-25
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2005-09-28
campsites: BC(31/08,4900m),ABC(05/09,5600m),C1(13/09,6400m),C2(20/09,7100m),C3(24/09,7500m),Smt(25/09)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  Team left C3 at 1 am, spent about 30 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at 2 pm.

  Charles Gray left ABC on 20 Sept due to mild AMS.

  Sherpas and Tibetan did not use oxygen.

  Sherpas:
    Danuru Sherpa, 26/10/78, Phortse (6th time Cho Oyu)
    Phu Nuru Sherpa, 16/5/80, Phortse (6th time Cho Oyu, 2X Everest)
    Phubu Thunzu, aka Phurba Dunchu, from Tingri (now lives in Lhasa), 
      climbed Everest in 21/5/2003, Cho Oyu once before


expid: CHOY05343
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Arnold Coster
sponsor: SummitClimb Cho Oyu Expedition 2005
countries: Austria, France, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey, UK, USA
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2005-09-10
smtdate: 2005-09-27
smttime: 0815
termdate: 2005-10-04
campsites: BC(10/09,4900m),ABC(13/09,5700m),C1(17/09,6400m),C2(20/09,7100m),C3(27/09,7400m),Smt(27-29/09)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  Findik and Auberson left C2 at 1:30 am, after summit they descended to C2, arrived at 1:30 pm.

  Team of 28 Sept left C3 at 2 am, summited 08:50-9:30 (CST), they descended to C2 and arrived at 7:30 pm. Buckhingham (after summiting) slipped for about 300m from the middle of rock band down to above C3. He was about 200m right of rock band and not fixed to rope. He had lost his crampons. He self-arrested about 50m above a crevasse. Crampton and Ward helped him down to C3 and short-roped him down to C2 the same day. Next day he got some spare crampons and descended to ABC on his own. He also got 2nd degree frostbite on both feet.

  Butler abandoned climb at 7500m due to fatigue.
  Coster turned back with Gerringer at 7900m due to member's fatigue
  Crampton turned back at 7500m (29 Sept); he helped Buckhingham down.
  Faulkner left ABC on 18 Sept due to chest infection.
  Ulrica and Richard Lindskold got to C3 (27 Sept), then abandoned the climb
    as they were too slow.
  Niering got to 7200m (27 Sept) but turned back due to upset stomach.
  Stewart got to 7200m (27 Sept) but turned back due to fatigue.
  Maya Sherpa got to 7200m (27 Sept) and turned back as she accompanied Stewart.
  Ward got to C3 on 27 Sept but descended due to risk of pulmonary edema.
  Williams got to 7100m (27 Sept) but turned back due to chest pain.

  Information on climbing Tibetans:
    Tsering Dorje, aka Cerin Doji, Lhasa, Aug 1960, Everest 5/5/1988, 28/5/1999
    Thumba, Tingri, 1983, Everest 5/6/05
    Pemba, Tingri, 1979 [?], Everest 21/5/05
    Lobchong, aka Lud Qong, Tingri, 27/10/84, Cho Oyu 26/9/04
    Tashi Tshering, Tingri, 1981, Everest 2004


expid: CHOY05344
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Cyrille Cadet
sponsor: Independent climber on Cho Oyu
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2005-09-08
smtdate: 2005-09-26
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2005-10-02
campsites: BC(08/09,5000m),ABC(11/09,5700m),C1(13/09,6400m),C2(16/09,7100m),C3(25/09,7550m),Smt(26/09)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Cadet left C3 at 01:00 hours (NST), summited at 06:30 hours, stayed there about one and half hour, to ABC at 17:00 hours. Ahead 15 people summited on that day. Weather was very good, everything was clear. Saw Everest, Lhotse, etc. Cadet returned to Kathmandu on Oct 3. He is suppose to leave on Oct 14; he may go to Pokhara.


expid: CHOY05345
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Venezuela
leaders: Patricia Tacconi
sponsor: Venezuela 8000 to Cho Oyu
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2005-09-12
smtdate: 2005-10-01
smttime: 0939
termdate: 2005-10-06
campsites: BC(12/09,4900m),ABC(17/09,5700m),C1(24/09,6400m),C2(28/09,7100m),C3(30/09,7400m),Smt(01/10)
accidents: Sonam Sherpa got frostbite; Pasang got infection of leg
achievment: 1st Venezuelan woman
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Tacconi, Rosenschein and Sonam left C3 at 4 am. Rosenschein climbed to above the rock band but turned due to exhaustion.

  Tacconi spent 25 minutes on summit and descended to C2, where she arrived at 4 pm.

  Sonam Sherpa got frostbite on both feet (two toes each) and on the sole. He did not wear "One Sport" boots but normal plastic boots.

  Pasang Sherpa suffered from an infection in the leg. It was swollen and sore but he still climbed to C3.


expid: DHA105301
peakid: DHA1
year: 2005
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Claude Bitz
sponsor: Swiss Dhaulagiri I Expedition
ascent1: 119
approach: Beni->French Pass
bcdate: 2005-09-13
smtdate: 2005-10-06
smttime: 1410
termdate: 2005-10-10
campsites: BC(13/09,4750m),C1(20/09,5800m),C2(27/09,6800m),Smt(06/10)
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Deposit camp on Sept 22 at 5300m.

  Bonvin, Michellod and Gillioz left C2 at 9 pm on 5 Oct. Michellod and Gillioz turned back at 7500m due to fatigue and upset stomach. Bonvin carried on and followed the Russian steps. He met 5 Russians on the top. The weather was good and he had good views. He descended to C2 where he arrived at 7 pm. The overall conditions on the mountain were not too good due to too much snow. 

  Bitz and Bovier got to C2 but did not carry on due to lack of motivation.


expid: DHA105302
peakid: DHA1
year: 2005
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Juerg Anderegg
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Dhaulagiri Expedition 2005
countries: Germany, Netherlands
approach: Jomsom->Dhampus Pass->BC
bcdate: 2005-09-01
smtdate: 2005-09-12
termdate: 2005-10-02
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to avalanche danger
campsites: BC(01/09,4700m),C1(07/09,5660m),C2(11/09,6550m),xxx(12/09,6900m)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  Echser, Isepponi and Stark left BC on 14 Sept as they did not like it. They got to C1 on 11 Sept.

  All other members apart from Rooijakker and Listmann got to C2.

  Rooijakker and Listmann got to C1 on 7 Sept.

  Sherpa information:
    Namgyal Sherpa, Lelep-8, Gyabla, Taplejung, 11/08/71, 
      Everest, Spring 2003, 2004, 2005, Cho Oyu Aut 2005
    Wangchhu Sherpa, Taksindu, Solu, 1979
    Pemba Tenge Sherpa, Namche, 1976, no 8000ers


expid: DHA105303
peakid: DHA1
year: 2005
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Sergei Petrov
sponsor: Angarsk Dhaulagiri Expedition
ascent1: 118
approach: Beni->Tatopani->Marpha->Yak Kharka
bcdate: 2005-09-13
smtdate: 2005-10-06
smttime: 1410
termdate: 2005-10-10
campsites: BC(13/09,4700m),C1(23/09,5700m),C2(24/09,6500m),C3(03/10,7100m),C4(05/10,7450m),Smt(06/10)
agency: Trekking & Mountaineering Services
routememo:
  BC at Deposit camp on Sept 22 at 5300m.

  Five members and two Sherpas plus one Swiss member from the Swiss Expedition left C4 on Oct 6 at 04:30 hours, summited at 14:10 hours, stayed 50 minutes on summit, descended to C4 about 03:00 hours of Oct 7. Next day to C2 and following day to BC. This season it was strange, had rain at BC and for nine days there was snowfall on the mountain. Beginning from Sept 14-22, in between only one day there was sunshine. All members except Kirillov, who stayed in Pokhara returned to KTM on Oct 14 and trying to leave on 17th.

  Oxygen: Kirillov, Naoumov, Petrov and Vinogradski used oxygen from C4 to summit; on descending there was not oxygen as it was all consumed. Bolotov, Nuri and Hasta did not use oxygen.

  Sherpas:
    Nuru Chhiri Sherpa (1970-4-26)
      Bhakunje-2, Solukhumbu, summited Everest, Lhotse
    Hasta Bahadur Gurung, Sittalpati-4, Sankhuwasabha, summited
      Dhaulagiri I, 10/95


expid: EVER05301
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Jerzy Michalski
sponsor: Mt Everest Macrosoft Expedition - Two Generations Challenge
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2005-09-06
smtdate: 2005-09-24
termdate: 2005-09-25
termnote: Abandoned at 6975m due to injury of Sherpas by avalanche and risk of avalanche
campsites: BC(06/09,5200m),ABC(14/09,6400m),xxx(24/09,6975m)
accidents: Damai Chhiri injured by avalanche below North Col
agency: South Asian Treks
routememo:
  The team reached to ABC on Sept 14 and on 17th both Michalski's walked up to 6700m and went down to CBC. 

  On Sept 24, Damai Chhiri and Pemba Sherpa were setting the fixed rope to C1 and trying to put up C1 in North Col. Just below 20m from the North Col, the soft snow broke up and swept Damai about 200-250m and Pemba too was taken down about 50m. Pemba managed to pull up Damai and brought him down to CBC on yak. At the CBC Damai was unstable and vomiting with blood. The doctor of the Lakpa Ri expedition checked Damai and suspected broken ribs. Two members brought Damai to KTM on a jeep on Sept 25-26. When I met Pawel Michalski on Oct 2, he told me that Damai is recovering and no ribs were broken. 

  The Michalski's are planning to return to Everest in the spring.


expid: GAUR05301
peakid: GAUR
year: 2005
route1: NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: John Roskelley
sponsor: American Gaurishankar Tibet Expedition
approach: Kodari->Tingri, south to end of road (3 days to BC)
bcdate: 2005-09-24
smtdate: 2005-10-02
termdate: 2005-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 5450m due to excessively dangerous rocks
campsites: BC(24/09,4400m),C1(01/10,5000m),xxx(02/10,5450m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  Occupied C1 on 1 Oct; from C1 to 5450m on North Ridge and retreated because rocks little and big so loose, like a house of cards; rock was so terrible as went higher, loose rocks but bigger. Route not in condition for ascent because too rocky and difficulties did not cease higher up. There even were huge icicles hanging down from the rocks.

  Roskelley's NE Ridge was not same at that of Japanese in aut 1997; there are several NE ribs and ridges.


expid: GYAC05301
peakid: GYAC
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yoshitaka Kawabe
sponsor: Fukuoka University Alpine Club Gyachung Kang Expedition 2005
ascent1: 10th
approach: Lukla->Namche->Gyoko->Cho Oyu BC
bcdate: 2005-09-23
smtdate: 2005-10-17
smttime: 1340
termdate: 2005-10-22
campsites: BC(23/09,5300m),C1(27/09,5800m),C2(03/10,6300m),C3(09/10,7000m),C4(16/10,7500m),Smt(17/10)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  Hanada, Shigekawa, Tamting Sherpa and Nima Tenji Sherpa left C4 at 04:30 hours on Oct 17, summited at 13:40 hours, stayed at summit about 35 minutes. Hanada and Tenji returned to C4 at 17:10 hours and Shigekawa and Tamting reached C4 at about 20:00 hours. They were late due to blindness of Shigekawa which ocurred about 400m below the summit. Shigekawa was helped by Tamting to reach to C4. Shigekawa thinks that the long descent time is one of the reasons for frostbite. Shigekawa realized the frostbitten fingers when he took off his gloves at C4. The weather on the summit day was very cold and windy from the early morning, otherwise it was good. 

  The team left BC on Oct 22 to near Cho Oyu BC. Shigekawa and Hino were evacuated from Chatahiri (near Gyoko) on Oct 24. His frostbitten fingers were treated at CIWEC. Doctor could not say how bad is the case. Hino and Shigekawa left Nepal on Oct 28. Rest of the team members returned to KTM on Oct 30 and will leave on Nov 3.

  Member Hino climbed up to 6400m, suffered from cold on Oct 5 and stayed in BC.

  Leader of the team Kawabe stayed all the time in BC.

  Shima climbed up to 7000m on Oct 9 and turned back to BC due to tiredness. 
  Shirozu and Takai were at C4 on 17 Oct. Both came down with Shigekawa to BC.
   
  Professor Nagata is not a climbing member. He was with the team to study air pollution in different places and he stayed in BC for 3 days. He left BC on Sept 26 and left Nepal on Oct 2. 

  Sherpas:
    Tamting Sherpa (2031-9-5), Gaurishankar VDC Ward no 1, Dolakha
      summited Everest 5 times, Cho Oyu 6 times
    Nima Tenji Sherpa (2037-5-8), Gaurishankar VDC Ward No 1, Dolakha,
      summited Everest 3 times, Cho Oyu 1 time

accidents:
  Shigekawa's fingers frostbitten, middle ring and last finger of right hand, middle and index fingers of left hand


expid: PUMO05301
peakid: PUMO
year: 2005
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Andrew Turner
sponsor: Pumori 2005
countries: Australia, Iceland, Ireland
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche
bcdate: 2005-10-18
smtdate: 2005-10-23
termdate: 2005-10-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to avalanching
campsites: BC(18/10,5300m),ABC(21/10,5800m),xxx(23-24/10,6300m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  The team could only put up ABC. One member and three Sherpas able to climb up to 6300m then turned back on Oct 23 or 24. There were frequent avalanches. 

  Dickson and Watters returned to KTM on Oct 31 and Nov 1 respectively. Dickson left Nepal on Nov 2 and Watters on Nov 3. Rest of the team members returned to KTM on Nov 4 and leave on Nov 8. Turner is leaving for Lukla on Nov 6 to try North face of Marchermo with Owen Samuel. They plan to return to KTM after two weeks. Turner has booking to fly out on Nov 29.

  Pumori Sherpas:
    Mingma Nuru Sherpa, 22/4/1969, Pangboche, Khumjung 7, Solukhumbu
      (Everest 3X, Lhotse X1, Cho Oyu X2)
    Nuru Wangchu Sherpa, 18/8/1977, Pangboche, Khumjung 7, Solukhumbu 
      (Everest 3-4 times)
    Jumik Bhote (22 years), Hatiya 1, Sankhuwasabha (Pumori 2005 Spring)


expid: PUMO05302
peakid: PUMO
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Luis Stitzinger
sponsor: DAV Summit Club Pumori Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche
bcdate: 2005-10-07
smtdate: 2005-10-24
termdate: 2005-10-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6850m due to strong wind, not enough time
campsites: BC(07/10,5310m),ABC(11/10,5650m),C1(14/10,6185m),C2(23/10,6630m),xxx(24/10,6850m)
accidents: Singhi Lama tumbled down about 400m on 14 Oct
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  On 14 Oct Singhi Lama slipped at 5 pm just above C1 at 6200m and fell for about 400m down the steep slope (top section about 70 degrees). He then tumbled onto the glacier and stopped at about 5800m. He was on fixed rope when he slipped but the bottom fixed point came out and his carabiner slipped through. Kazi, Chhetra and Stitzinger descended immediately and were with him within 20 minutes. To their surprise Singhi Lama was still alive. They wrapped him up and carried him to ABC, where they arrived at 9 pm. On 15 Oct they built a stretcher and carried him down to the helipad between the two lakes, where he was picked up by a helicopter at 11 am. Singhi Lama was taken to hospital in KTM. He was diagnosed with a broken ankle, a broken wrist and a few broken ribs. After the accident the team stayed at BC for two days to wait for news from the hospital after it was clear that Singhi Lama would be Ok. They climbed back up, but had to abandon climb in the end as they were running out of time.

  Biederer and Kutter did not climb higher than ABC due to altitude problems.

  Sherpas:
    Kazi Sherpa, Sete in Solu, 1971
    Chhetra Sherpa, Makalu District, 1970
    Singi Lama Sherpa, Helambu (near Sarmatang), 1971


expid: PUTH05301
peakid: PUTH
year: 2005
route1: SE Ridge (German Route)
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Blaz Navrsnik
sponsor: Slovenia Dhaulagiri VII Expedition to Putha Hiunchuli
ascent1: 26th
approach: Beni->Dorban
bcdate: 2005-09-27
smtdate: 2005-10-14
smttime: 0945
termdate: 2005-10-17
campsites: BC(27/09,4200m),C1(30/09,5200m),C2(07/10,5900m),C3(13/10,6350m),Smt(14/10)
agency: Traditional Treks
routememo:
  Summiters left C3 at 3 am. It was very windy (about 100m) and it was hard to stay on summit. They stayed 20 minutes and had fantastic views. Kladnik descended to C2, where he arrived at 4 pm. Narvrsnik descended to C1, where he arrived at 5 pm. 

  Stabuc got to 6700m but turned back due to cold feet. 
  Decman, Lesnik, Napotnik got to C2, but stopped due to mild altitude problems.
  Gurej got to 5500m but stayed most time at C1 as he was there as a doctor. 
  Plohl got to 5700m and abandoned due to upset stomach.

  Conditions on mountain were good, but a lot of snow.


expid: SWAK05301
peakid: SWAK
year: 2005
route1: S Face (intended)
nation: USA
leaders: Peter Ackroyd
sponsor: Cowboys in the Kanti Himal
countries: Germany
approach: Jomsom->Tcharka->Tinkyu->Saldang->Shey Gompa->NW to BC
bcdate: 2005-10-18
smtdate: 2005-10-18
termdate: 2005-10-21
termnote: Abandoned at 5200m due to heavy snowfall
campsites: BC(18/10,4800m),BC(19/10,4950m),xxx(18/10,5200m)
agency: Jai Himal Trekking
routememo:
  From Swaksa Khola BC could not find a route onto glacier at bottom of mountain; big hanging glaciers and loose rock; 18th got to 17,000 ft [5180m] up Swaksa Khola and back to BC same day all 4 members together almost all of entire climb. 19th moved BC west of Khola to Yala pass at 17,600 ft [5365m], very steep to pass and snow covering rock and couldn't see what was under snow. Crossed pass and down west side then north to new BC site at 16,300 ft [4970m] just east of point 4976 on HMG map. Now started snowing that night; snowing most of rest of 3 days and snow on 21st, running short of fuel and food and porters very nervous about these problems, so left 2nd BC on 21st. Went south to Chhyandi Khola and went along khola; over Gha La (5182m) on 22nd to Chhan Khola; 23rd down Chhan Khola to Mugu Khola. 25th to Ganghadi town near Rara Lake. 27th to 29th going to Jumla. It was a long walk. Frush: "If we had not moved from Swaksa Khola would have been in real trouble with deep snow - expedition came too late; better to go in spring or early in autumn."

  Paid Maoists Rs 2500 for sirdar, $200 per member.


expid: TUKU04301
peakid: TUKU
year: 2004
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Takaharu Hayashi
sponsor: Karang Kurung Tukuche Peak Expedition
approach: Muktinath->Marpha->Thapa Pass
bcdate: 2004-10-08
smtdate: 2004-10-20
termdate: 2004-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(08/10,5000m),C1(10/10,6000m),C2(19/10,6200m),xxx(20/10,6600m)
agency: Unknown
routememo:
  BC at Hidden Valley
  High point at "Junction Peak".

  After arrival at C1 from 10th was snowfall for 5 days.


expid: TUKU05301
peakid: TUKU
year: 2005
route1: N Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Sjon Wagenaar
sponsor: Dutch Wagennar-Neefjes Tukuche Expedition
approach: Beni->Tatopani->French Pass
bcdate: 2005-10-04
smtdate: 2005-10-10
termdate: 2005-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to slow acclimatization
campsites: BC(04/10,5100m),C1(07/10,6150m),xxx(10/10,6600m)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  Neefjes and Wagenaar did not get above 6000m as they were too slow and Wagennar had problems acclimatising.

  Mingma Dukpa Sherpa set up C1 and climbed to 6600m (junction point) from where he could see huge crevasses below the main summit. He told Wagennar that climbing the main summit would be impossible. He did not think that the Spanish team, led by Sanchez Gonzalez, could have climbed the main summit.

  Moti Lal Gurung got as far as C1 but did not sleep there. Due to bad weather the team was stuck in Jomsom for 5 days. They took a helicopter to Pokhara on 24 Oct.


expid: TUKU05302
peakid: TUKU
year: 2005
route1: N Ridge-W Smt
nation: Japan
leaders: Kiyotaka Suzuki
sponsor: Yukiwarabe Tukuche Peak Expedition 2005
approach: Jomsom->Dhampus Pass->BC
bcdate: 2005-09-30
smtdate: 2005-10-16
termdate: 2005-10-18
termnote: Stopped at 6850m (W Peak) due to big crevasses
campsites: BC(30/09,5000m),C1(06/10,6200m),C2(15/10,6600m),WSmt(16/10,6850m)
agency: Sherpa Summit Treks
routememo:
  Asahi, Tsuruki, Urakuba, Gyalgen, Kami and Lhakpa decided not to climb Tukuche Main, but climbed West Peak; they left C2 at 5:30 am and summited at 9:00 am. They descended to BC where they arrived at 5 pm. Conditions and weather were perfect.

  Other three members stayed at C1 as they were too tired to carry on.

  Team was stuck in Jomsom for 5 days; on 24 Oct they took a helicopter to Pokhara.


expid: TUKU05303
peakid: TUKU
year: 2005
route1: NE Ridge-W Smt
nation: Spain
leaders: Eloy Sanchez Gonzalez
sponsor: Asturias Tukuche Peak Expedition
approach: Beni->Tatopani->Dorban
bcdate: 2005-10-01
smtdate: 2005-10-05
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2005-10-07
campsites: BC(01/10,5100m),C1(03/10,5700m),C2(04/10,6200m),WSmt(05/10,6850)
agency: Sherpa Alpine Trekking
routememo:
  Summit team left C2 at 7 am and stayed about 20 minutes on the top. The weather was good. They got back to C2 at 5 pm.

  Aragon got to 6000m but abandoned climb due to mild AMS.
  Fernandez did not get beyond BC as he felt altitude but stayed at BC through 
    out climb.
  Garcia Calvo got to C2 but did not carry on due to fatigue.
  Salcedo got to C2 - mild AMS.
  Sanchez Gonzalez stayed at BC; no ambition to climb.
  Yague got to 6000m but turned around with Aragon.


  Main Summit Disputed:

  After I met the Spanish team I spoke to the Japanese and Dutch teams that were also on the mountain. They told me that climbing the main summit was impossible. The Dutch and Japanese teams climbed the West Peak and not the main summit.

  The main summit was impossible to reach due to huge crevasses.


expid: BARU05301
peakid: BARU
year: 2005
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Floriano Castelnuovo
sponsor: Baruntse Italian Expedition
approach: Tumlingtar->Tashigaon->Makalu BC->Sherpani Col
bcdate: 2005-10-20
smtdate: 2005-10-24
termdate: 2005-10-26
termnote: Abandoned at 6850m due to deep snow and lack of time
campsites: BC(20/10,4500m),C2(23/10,6350m),xxx(24/10,6850m)
agency: Tip & Top Trekking
routememo:
  Approach: Tumlingtar, Bhotebas, Num, Seduwa, Tashigaon, Kauma, Dosato, Jangrikharka, Merikhark, Hillary BC, Makalu BC, Korean BC, Sherpani Col BC.

  Barelli, Castelnuovo and Erba left C2 on Oct 24 at 04:00 hours for summit. They reached to 6850m at 12:00 hours. There was waist deep snow. It was not possible for the team to continue farther so turned back to BC where they reached around 19:00 hours. 

  The six-member team returned to Kathmandu on Nov 5. Members will leave Nepal on Nov 8. Leader is waiting for trekking group to lead to Khumbu or Annapurna circuit. 

  Castelnuovo probably will leave the country on 15 Dec.

  Fomagalli had to leave the expedition team from Sherpani Col due to headache and stomach problem on Oct 19. He arrived Kathmandu on Oct 25.

  Castelnuovo is thinking to come for Dhaulagiri in the spring.


expid: BARU05302
peakid: BARU
year: 2005
route1: W Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Gerhard Pilz
sponsor: Austrians to Baruntse
ascent1: 70th
approach: Lukla->Mera La->Mera Peak
bcdate: 2005-10-25
smtdate: 2005-10-29
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2005-10-31
campsites: BC(25/10,5510m),C1(27/10,6140m),C2(28/10,6450m),Smt(29/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of West Col.

  Team left C2 at 3:30 am. Weather was perfect and not a lot of wind. After summiting they descended to C1, where they arrived 5:30. Crevasse at 6600m was no problem. They stepped around it on the right. 

  Passek stayed at BC. He never intended to climb mountain. He was reporting on the trip for local media.


expid: BARU05303
peakid: BARU
year: 2005
route1: SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Laurent Vivien Raguet
sponsor: Terres d'Adventure Baruntse Expedition
ascent1: 68th
approach: Lukla->Zatra La->Mera La
bcdate: 2005-10-19
smtdate: 2005-10-25
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2005-10-29
campsites: BC(19/10,5400m),C1(22/10,6100m),C2(24/10,6400m),Smt(25/10)
agency: Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
routememo:
  BC by lakes
  C1 at top of West Col.

  Team left C2 at 5 am. Weather was perfect. The big crevasse still there. But team could bypass it on the right side. After summiting team descended to BC where they got at 7 pm on 25 Oct.

  Revest got to about 5900m on 21 Oct, but abandoned climb due to altitude problems (not serious); he left BC on 22 Oct.

  Sherpas:
    Ngima Nuru, originally Thami, then moved to Chaplung, 36
    Phurba Karma, from Thami, 38
    Nima Norbu, from Thamiteng, 30


expid: BARU05304
peakid: BARU
year: 2005
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Martin Ophey
sponsor: International Baruntse Expedition
countries: Netherlands
approach: Lukla->Mera La->Mera Peak
bcdate: 2005-10-01
smtdate: 2005-10-05
termdate: 2005-10-11
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to deep snow and avalanche danger
campsites: BC(01/10,5450m),xxx(05/10,6000m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Team got to just below West Col and decided to turn back due to too much snow and avalanche danger. They walked out and crossed the Amphu Laptsa and Ophey joined Amical Ama Dablam team on 11 Oct.

  Ophey got as far as 5950m on Ama Dablam (with Amical), but decided to turn back due to big crevasse below C3 (6250m). He did not get there (to see for himself), but was told by Sherpas about the crevasse. He left BC on 16 Oct.


expid: MAK205301
peakid: MAK2
year: 2005
route1: S Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Liliane Grandadam
sponsor: European Makalu II Expedition
countries: Germany
approach: Tumlingtar->Num
bcdate: 2005-10-07
smtdate: 2005-10-18
termdate: 2005-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to high winds (tents were blown off)
campsites: BC(07/10,4800m),ABC(09/10,5500m),C1(13/10,5900m),C2(18/10,7200m),xxx(18/10,7200m)
agency: South Asian Treks
routememo:
  Team spent two days at C2 and waited for the wind to abate (Repelin, Wacker, Pasang Sherpa, Pemba Sherpa, Nga Temba). They descended to BC on 20 Oct as weather turned worse, snowfall. 

  Granadam got to C1 on 17 Oct but returned to BC.
  Hofert did not get above BC due to lack of motivation.

  Beovardi got cerebral edema at 4800m on 8 Oct. He could hardly walk but waited until the next day to descend. Siebert descended with him to Langmale (4100m) on 9 Oct. But as Beovardi's condition deteriorated they descended further. On 3 Oct they called a helicopter, which picked him up at Yangle Kharka village (3500m).

  Siebert went back up and arrived at ABC on 18 Oct. However, he did not go farther up as other members came down.

  Wacker slipped on moraine (5600m), and landed on rock and broke a rib.

  Sherpas:
    Nga Temba Sherpa, Kharikhola, 1951, 
      several times Everest, Makalu in 1978
    Pasang Sherpa, Kharikhola, 1979, Everest X3
    Pemba Lama Sherpa, Kharikhola, 1981, Everest, Kanchenjunga


expid: BARU05305
peakid: BARU
year: 2005
route1: SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Richard Vieux
sponsor: Independent team on Baruntse
ascent1: 69th
approach: Lukla->Nangpa La->Gokyo->Kalapattar->Island Peak->Amphu Laptsa
bcdate: 2005-10-26
smtdate: 2005-10-29
termdate: 2005-10-31
othersmts: Island Peak
campsites: BC(26/10,5350m),C1(27/10,6100m),Smt(29/10)
accidents: No injuries and no accidents
agency: Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
routememo:
  The weather was fine, sunny and hardly any wind. They returned to C1 from the summit at 4 pm the same day. Pasang went to BC on the same day while the other four summiters returned on 30th.

  They flew out of Lukla on November 7 and left Nepal on November 11.

  Sherpa summiters: 
    All from Pangboche; Pasang Tshering summited Everest in 2004.


expid: JANK05301
peakid: JANK
year: 2005
route1: S Face-SW Ridge
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Andrej Stremfelj
sponsor: Slovenian Janak Expedition 2005
approach: Ghunsa->Lhonak
bcdate: 2005-09-29
smtdate: 2005-10-20
termdate: 2005-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 6650m due to bad weather and lack of time
othersmts: Climbed Lashar I (LASH-053-01)
campsites: BC(29/09,4750m),ABC(06/10,5710m),Biv(20/10,6650m),xxx(20/10,6650m)
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC  at Lhonak
  ABC on broken (Chhyctundonga) glacier moraine near south of point 5679 on HMG map
  Biv at top of South Face at SW Ridge in snowhole
  High point on SW Ridge.

  To acclimatize for Janak, they climbed Dzanye just west of Janak on a SW couloir which leads almost directly to summit; down West Ridge but became very steep and moved over to South Face 200m below top; even here had to rappel 350m. Climbed mountain on 12 Oct from Janak BC starting 10 Oct and in 2 bivs scaled mountain. 1st biv at 5610m [had cook boy, Girmi Dorje Sherpa, carry loads to 1st biv, 12 km from BC (and left) members there] on Tisisima Glacier on moraine just southeast of point 5666m on HMG map; 11th climbed glacier of Dzanye to 6200m and 2nd biv, 3 km from 1st biv in direction to SSE Face. 12th down 150m to bottom of couloir on SSE Face and up couloir to West Ridge at 6770m and thence to top 6820m - couloir 50-55 degrees ice; then to the 1st biv, 13th to BC; had already pitched ABC to acclimatize.

  To Janak and to ABC on 18 Oct. 19th looked at glacier under its South Face. 20th started up at 4:30 am; 6:00 am started on face itself: went up couloir at east end of South Face, having abandoned original plan to go up SW Pillar because Habjan's throat problem and weather turned cloudy in am. At 6:00 pm had finished couloir up face to SW Ridge of Janak and bived here, strong wind, very cold, cloudy and now down; dug hole in snow here at 6650m with no tent, no sleeping bags because had expected to continue climb in full moonlight, but clouds obscured the moon. 21st heavier clouds and they decided to abandon summit attempt; descended same route, 15 rappels down the face; at 2:00 pm reached glacier. Snowfalling and avalanches had begun on face. Descended to ABC at 5:00 pm (where kitchen boy waited) and on down to BC on morning of 22 Oct having descended all night because on 25th had seats on flight from Taplejung. Left BC at 2:00 pm for Ghunsa and 2 more days to Taplejung only to find bad weather prevented flight.


  Stremfelj's corrections about his expedition in Autumn 2005 - 17 May 2006

  After he returned from another expedition to Janak in 2006 and having consulted Jan Kielowski's monograph, Jonsang Himal, Volume 1, Andrej Stremfelj said that he was mistaken about what mountain his autumn 2005 expedition had been on.

  They had not gone for acclimatization to Dzange, the peak they had actually climbed, and made the first ascent of, was Lashar I (see Kielowski, page 14), which Kielowski says is 6930m high but Stremfelj found was 6870m high, on the Tibetan border west of Janak Chuli. The climb's details given by Stremfelj on 30 October 2005 still hold good, but the name of the mountain was not Dzange but Lashar I.

  They then went to Janak Chuli.


expid: PBUK05301
peakid: PBUK
year: 2005
route1: S side (intended)
nation: Japan
leaders: Tamotsu Ohnishi
sponsor: Osaka Alpine Club East Nepal Expedition
approach: Dharan->Taplejung->Kangchenjunga North BC->Sharphu->Nupchu
bcdate: 2005-10-19
smtdate: 2005-10-21
termdate: 2005-10-21
termnote: Abandoned at 5550m due to heavy snowfall and icefall-hanging glacier obstacles
campsites: BC(19/10,4729m),ABC(20/10,5468m),xxx(21/10,5550m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC  northwest of Yangma village
  ABC at just east of Yangma Kang La (Pass)
  High point at about 5550m approach to snowslope on south side.

  Went first to Kangchenjunga Pangpema BC to acclimatize and thence to Ghunsa and north to Sharphu and its six peaks to check altitudes, but climbed none of them. Then north to Yangma on 16 Oct to measure Nupchu. Left Yangma on 19 Oct to BC northwest of Yangma last 4729m on border. 21 Oct went north to climb Pabuk Kang on border also but icefall and hanging glacier presented serious obstacles and 20-22 days of constant snowfall (30 cms each day). 21 Oct went 100m above ABC and abandoned climb. Left ABC and BC on 21 Oct to Yangma where 60 cm snowfall during night of 21st. South and then west to Walungchung and northwest to Arun River and made to side trek north to border and did small shopping in Tibetan village of Chhanthang. Then south to Tumlingtar and flew to KTM on 1 Nov. 

  Left KTM for east on 20 Sept; intended route was snowslope on Pabuk Kang south side.


expid: LASH05301
peakid: LASH
year: 2005
route1: SSE Face-W Ridge up; W Ridge-> S Face down
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Andrej Stremfelj
sponsor: Slovenian Janak Expedition 2005
ascent1: 2nd
approach: Ghunsa->Lhonak
bcdate: 2005-09-29
smtdate: 2005-10-12
termdate: 2005-10-22
othersmts: Attempted Janak (JANK-053-01)
campsites: BC(29/09,4750m),Biv1(10/10,5610m),Biv2(11/10,6200m),Smt(12/10)
agency: Wilderness Experience
primid: JANK05301
routememo:
  BC at Lhonak
  ABC on broken (Chhyctundonga) glacier moraine near south of point 5679 on HMG map
  Biv at top of South Face at SW Ridge in snowhole
  High point on SW Ridge.

  To acclimatize for Janak, they climbed Dzanye just west of Janak on a SW couloir which leads almost directly to summit; down West Ridge but became very steep and moved over to South Face 200m below top; even here had to rappel 350m. Climbed mountain on 12 Oct from Janak BC starting 10 Oct and in 2 bivs scaled mountain. 1st biv at 5610m [had cook boy, Girmi Dorje Sherpa, carry loads to 1st biv, 12 km from BC (and left) members there] on Tisisima Glacier on moraine just southeast of point 5666m on HMG map; 11th climbed glacier of Dzanye to 6200m and 2nd biv, 3 km from 1st biv in direction to SSE Face. 12th down 150m to bottom of couloir on SSE Face and up couloir to West Ridge at 6770m and thence to top 6820m - couloir 50-55 degrees ice; then to the 1st biv, 13th to BC; had already pitched ABC to acclimatize.

  To Janak and to ABC on 18 Oct.


  Lindsay Griffin - May 2006

  It is almost certain that the acclimatization peak climbed by the Stremfelj party was Lashar I, not Dzanye Peak. Andrej Stremfelj agrees with this assessment.


expid: CHOY05346
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Lucio Trucco
sponsor: Italian Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2005-09-09
smtdate: 2005-09-28
smttime: 1027
termdate: 2005-10-05
campsites: BC(09/09,4900m),ABC(11/09,5700m),C1(20/09,6400m),C2(28/09,7200m),Smt(28-29/09)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 4900m 
  CBC/IC on 10th at about 5300m.

  Kofler left C2 at 00:20 hours (NST) on Sept 28, summited at 10:27 hours, stayed on summit about 15 minutes, back to C2 at 14:00 hours. Next day to ABC. The weather was very good. Between 20 to 30 people were there for summit bid from C3. About 5 people were there behind Kofler. It was a clear day and saw Everest. 

  Bianchi left C2 at 00:15 hours (NST) on Sept 29, summited at about 10:00 hours, stayed on summit about 10 minutes, back to C2 at 14:00 hours. Next day to ABC. It was a clear day, very good weather, little windy, saw Everest and other mountains. Before Bianchi there were 3 people with Sherpa and the Ski team. 

  About other members: Guglielmino left the team on Sept 11 or 12. He had headache while he was at ABC. Nicoletta was with Kofler on 28 for summit push. Nicoletta was tired and had to turn back from C3 site [7400m]. Perron and Poletto went up to C2 on 27th, got tired and returned. Trucco was not feeling well. He went up to C2. Four members left ABC on Oct 13 for Kathmandu. Kofler and Bianchi returned to KTM on Oct 6.

  Kofler, Nicoletta, Perron and Poletto will leave on Oct 10. Bianchi and Trucco to leave Nepal on 14th. Guglielmino already left the country probably on Sept 19.


expid: TILI05301
peakid: TILI
year: 2005
route1: NE Spur-N Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Jochen Haase
sponsor: Amical Alpin Tilicho Expedition 2005
ascent1: 30th
countries: Switzerland
approach: Besisahar->Koto
bcdate: 2005-10-14
smtdate: 2005-10-29
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2005-11-01
campsites: BC(14/10,4950m),C1(27/10,5800m),C2(28/10,6300m),Smt(29/10)
accidents: Kaesbauer killed in fall
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  On 29 Oct Kaesbauer was on his way up (together with Kieffer and Binder) when Haase met him (on his way down) at 6900m. Haase asked Kaesbauer and others to turn around due to the fact that it was too late as it was 1:15 pm and the wind was picking up. The four of them abseilled down to 6600m. They arrived on bottom of fixed rope and down climbed slope of about 38 degrees. Kaesbauer did not have ice axe and Haase asked him to get his ice axe out of bag. Kaesbauer sat down to do so and started sliding. He slid for about 200m to 6400m. Haase was with him 10 minutes later but Kaesbauer was already dead. Goering who is a doctor, got there at 3 pm and diagnosed possible skull fracture and broken neck. As Haase and team thought it was too dangerous to carry him down they dug him a grave nearby (6400m).

  Team stayed at C2 that night but Haase descended to BC on his own to contact Amical. He got there about 7 pm. Rest of team arrived at BC on 30 Oct. They were picked up by helicopter on 1 Nov.

  Summiteers left C2 at 6:30 am, summited between 12:00-13:30. The weather was clear with only light winds. Perfect views from top (Annapurna I, Dhaulagiri I). Team descended to C2, where they arrived at 4:15 pm.

  Carl left BC on 16 Oct (she did not get higher due to bronchitis); she walked
    to Jomsom.
  Lammer got to 5500m but could not climb higher due to cerebral edema; he left 
    BC on 18 Oct to walk to Jomsom with 2 Sherpas (17 Oct).
  Feneberg got to 6400m and abandoned climb due to fatigue (29/10).
  Schweizer got to 6400m but turned back as his vision got blurred (29/10).
  Roessler got to 5500m but did not get higher due to fatigue (17/10).


expid: AMAD05317
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Robert Casserley
sponsor: Amacass Expedition to Ama Dablam
bcdate: 2005-11-09
smtdate: 2005-11-14
smttime: 1045
termdate: 2005-11-15
campsites: BC(09/11,4600m),C1(12/11,5700m),C3(13/11,6350m),Smt(14/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Summit reached at 10:45 am after having left C3 at 8:30 am, return C3 at 12:30 pm, spent 1 hour on top in perfect weather and on to BC same day on 14th Nov at 8:30 pm. 15th Lobuche, 16th to Pangboche, 17th to Thyangboche, then Pangboche to Namche. At the mountain, used Henry Todd's BC and his tents at C1 and C3's and his food supplies.

  Pasang Dawa also summited on 10 Nov with James Hooper and James Kerr from Tim Mosedale's team.


expid: AMAD05318
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Soren Ledet
sponsor: 2005 Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Argentina, Denmark, UK
approach: Gokyo->Lobuje East
bcdate: 2005-10-22
smtdate: 2005-10-27
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2005-10-30
othersmts: Lobuche East
campsites: BC(22/10,4600m),C1(24/10,5800m),C2(25/10,6000m),C3(26/10,6350m),Smt(27/10)
accidents: Kloeden twisted knee
agency: Sea to Summit Trekking
routememo:
  Summit times from 12:30-1:30 pm.

  Team left C3 at 9 am. Weather was clear but windy. After summiting, they descended to C3, where they arrived between 3 pm and 5:30 pm. On 28 Oct they descended to BC.
   
  Currie got to C3 but abandoned due to lack of motivation. 

  Kilburn got to just above C1 but abandoned because mountain was too much for her.

  Kloeden abandoned climb due to his twisted knee (26 Oct); he twisted it on top of rock tower. He descended to C2, where he waited for 2 days for group to come back.

  Williams got as far as C3 but could not go on due to old injuries (football injuries) and twisted knee, which happened on Lobuche East.


expid: AMAD05319
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Andrew Mitchell
sponsor: Gaduy Expedition to Ama Dablam
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Ombagaichen BC
bcdate: 2005-10-19
smtdate: 2005-10-29
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2005-10-31
campsites: BC(19/10,4700m),ABC(22/10,5300m),C1(23/10,5700),C3(28/10,6300m),Smt(29/10)
agency: Sea to Summit Trekking
routememo:
  Team left C3 at 8:30 am. Weather was clear but windy. After summiting, they descended to C3, where they arrived at 3 pm. On 30 Oct they descended to C1 and stayed the night there as they were very tired. They climbed without Sherpas but said next time they would take Sherpas.

  Team waw planning to climb Ombagaichen, but conditions on the mountain were bad (too much snow) to climb.


expid: AMAD05320
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Sandy Allan
sponsor: Team Ascent Ama Dablam Expedition 2005
bcdate: 2005-10-30
smtdate: 2005-11-08
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2005-11-10
campsites: BC(30/10,4700m),C1(03/11,5800m),C3(07/11,6300m),Smt(08/11)
accidents: Cookson frostnip one finger
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Summit party left C3 7:30 am and on top 10:00-10:30 am and back to 2:15-2:45 pm. 

  Tait and Sturdy got to 6490m, but tired and cold, so turned back dowon to BC and left 10th 1:00 pm.


expid: AMAD05321
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: George Dunn
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Ama Dablam Expedition 2005
approach: Lukla->Pangboche
bcdate: 2005-10-27
smtdate: 2005-11-06
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2005-11-09
campsites: BC(27/10,4700m),C1(30/10,5100m),C2(04/11,5700m),C3(05/11,6300m),Smt(06/11)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  Team left C3 at 7:30 am. Weather was clear and cold. After summitting Ward and Werts descended to C3, arrived at 3 pm. Ang Pasang and Desota descended to C2, arrived at 5 pm. 

  Dunn got to 6300m. He was with Luke who got fatigued and they descended to C2 on 7 Nov.

  Geninati got to about 6000m on 5 Nov but turned back due to fatigue.

  Lefky left BC on 2 Nov due to fatigue; he got to C1 on 31 Oct.

  Ursino got to about 6400m on 6 Nov; stopped due to cold hands. He had frostbite before and felt it coming on again. He descended with Ang Chhiri (Kami Tshering) from Pangboche.


expid: AMAD05322
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: John Matthews
sponsor: San Miguel Search and Rescue team to Ama Dablam
approach: Lobuje East->Pangboche
bcdate: 2005-11-03
smtdate: 2005-11-08
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2005-11-12
campsites: BC(03/11,4700m),C1(05/11,5700m),C2(06/11,6000m),C3(07/11,6300m),Smt(08,10/11)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  Team of 8 Nov left C3 at 9 am. Weather clear but cold and windy. They spent about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to C3, where they arrived at 2:30 pm.

  Campbell and Khami Sherpa left C2 at 8:15 am. Weather was cold and clear. Team descended to C3 at 4:45 pm.

  Matthews got to C1 on 6 Nov but turned back to base camp due to flu and stomach problems. 

  Waring got to C1 on 6 Nov; he stayed 2 nights but went back to BC due to flu.


expid: AMAD05323
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Robin Baker
sponsor: Australians on Ama Dablam
approach: Lukla->Namche->Gokyo->Dingboche->Chhukung
bcdate: 2005-11-03
smtdate: 2005-11-07
termdate: 2005-11-09
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak on Oct 31
campsites: BC(03/11,4500m),C1(04/11,5700m),C2(06/11,5950m),Smt(07/11)
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
routememo:
  Baker and Castel left C2 on Nov 7 at 07:00 hours. Baker reached summit at 14:00 hours and Castel at 14:30 hours. Baker waited for Castel at summit for 30 minutes. Castel stayed at summit about 5 minutes. Descended to C2 where Baker reached at 18:00 hours and Castel at 18:15 hours. Weather was cold, clear and little windy. Baker team met descending one Sherpa and one Austrian, and one Sherpa and 3 Swiss. 

  Baker team returned to KTM on Nov 11. Baker will leave on Nov 22 and Castel has booking for 20th. He will try to leave early if possible.


expid: AMAD05324
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Miles Smart, Liz Oakes
sponsor: Independent team on Ama Dablam
bcdate: 2005-10-25
smtdate: 2005-10-29
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2005-10-31
campsites: BC(25/10,4600m),C1(27/10,5700m),C2(28/10,6100m),Smt(29/10)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  In summit push left C2 at 4:30 am, on top at 12:00 noon (Smart) and 12:30 pm (Oakes); left summit at 1:00 pm and slept in C2 that night 29 Oct; returned to BC 30 Oct.


expid: AMAD05325
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Stuart Remensnyder
sponsor: Field Touring Alpine Ama Dablam Expedition 2005
countries: Australia, Canada, Norway, S Africa
approach: Lukla->Pangboche
bcdate: 2005-10-22
smtdate: 2005-10-29
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2005-11-10
accidents: Lorraine Cooper cracked rib
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
campsites:
  BC(22/10,4500m),ABC(25/10,5300m),C1(26/10,5700m),C2(28/10,5900m),Smt(29/10),C3(02/11,6300m),Smt(03-04,07/11)

routememo:
  Team on 29 Oct left C2 at 7:30 am. It was windy and very cold. They descended to C2 after summit and arrived at 6 pm. 

  Team of 3 Nov left C3 at 9:30 am. Morning was very windy but wind died down at around 11 am. After summit they descended to C2 (arrived 5:30 am) except Remensyder who stayed at C3 where he arrived at 4:30 pm. 

  Team of 4 Nov left C3 at 10:15 am. It was windy and cold but clear. After summiting they descended to C3, where they arrived at 5 pm, except Manthy who descended to C2, where he arrived at 5:15 pm.

  Team of 7 Nov left C3 at 8:30 am. Weather clear but windy. After summiting they descended to C2 and arrived at 4:30 pm.

  Lorraine and Ryan Cooper got to C2 on 3 Nov but abandoned climb as Lorraine cracked a rib coughing. 

  Keith got to C3 on 3 Nov but turned back due to fatigue.

  Hamblin got to ABC but did not go further due to mild AMS.

  Harrington got to C1 but had to give up due to irregular heartbeats. He left BC on 4 Nov.

  Leyden got to C2 on 4 Nov but abandoned climb due to breathing problems (cold).

  Herb Sayers got to C2 on 4 Nov but turned back due to lack of energy. He would have given it another go but there was no time.


expid: AMAD05326
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Tim Mosedale
sponsor: Ama Dablam Expedition 2005
countries: USA
bcdate: 2005-10-29
smtdate: 2005-11-06
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2005-11-15
agency: Himalayan Guides
campsites:
  BC(29/10,4600m),ABC(01/11,5600m),C1(02/11,5800m),C2(04/11,6000m),C3(05/11,6300m),Smt(06,08,10-13/11)

routememo:
  Summit on 11 Nov - Hart and Mosedale at 12:00 noon
            12 Nov - Larsen, Chaw, Gibbons, Walker at 1:30 pm
            13 Nov - Danks and Girmin Dorje Sherpa (Pangboche - had 
                     already summited 1 Nov with Henry Todd's expedition) at 1:30 pm

  Bielby reached 5950m on 9 Nov and turned back because she was tired.

  Heaton reached C3 on 12 Nov and turned back because of the wind.

  Dennett left expedition, 4 Nov homesick (reached ABC only).

  Woodbridge got to C1, left expedition 7 Nov because she was overawed by mountain.

  Pasang Dawa also summited on 14 Nov with Robert Casserley.


expid: AMAD05327
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Luis Benitez
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Ama Dablam Expedition 2005
countries: Australia, Ireland, UK
bcdate: 2005-10-23
smtdate: 2005-11-03
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2005-11-06
campsites: BC(23/10,4050m),ABC(28/10,4250m),C1(29/10,4400m),C2(01/11,5450m),C3(02/11,6100m),Smt(03/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Lot of theft from tents - "place was a zoo."

  Summit Sherpas:
    Pasang Tenzing, 21/1/78, Phortse, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X1
    Lhakpa Dorje, 16/11/61, Sanam, Gudel, Solu, 
      Makalu X3, Lhotse X1, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X3


expid: AMAD05328
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Laetitia Sterling
sponsor: Independent team on Ama Dablam (on Todd's permit)
countries: UK
bcdate: 2005-11-14
smtdate: 2005-11-22
termdate: 2005-11-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6550m due to coldness
campsites: BC(14/11,4500m),C1(17/11,5700m),C3(21/11,6300m),xxx(22/11,6550m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Peter got bad stomach trouble, then headache, so went to 5500m on 15 Nov and back to BC. 16 Nov to Pangboche, 17th BC and headache and stayed at BC till wife joined him and they left.

  Laetitia down to BC 18 Nov, to C1 20 Nov, to C3 21 Nov. 22 Nov she and Lhakpa Thundu Sherpa left for top at 8:00 am, reached 6550m at 10:00, then she was very cold and with 2 more hours to top they turned around. Now her left eye went opaque (had laser surgery) so down to C1 (eyesight blurred now) and BC 23 Nov. Was frozen snow crust on route, making difficulty for using ice axe. Clear weather but windy and wind very cold.

  Team was on Henry Todd's permit and used his BC and higher camps tents, Todd's food at BC (but own food above), his kitchen staff and his Sherpa Lhakpa Thundu.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Thundu Sherpa, Pangboche, 20/5/70


expid: AMAD05329
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Henry Todd
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Ama Dablam Expedition 2005
countries: Brazil, USA
bcdate: 2005-10-10
smtdate: 2005-11-01
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2005-11-27
campsites: BC(10/10,4600m),C1(15/10,5600m),C3(25/10,6300m),Smt(01-02,04/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  There are not so many people climbing Ama Dablam, its ascents don't conform to standard traditional stereotype any longer and experienced climbers don't need guides. The mountain is "self-regulating," i.e., there is only one possible line of ascent on SW Ridge. For inexperienced climbers on Todd's teams there are, for most of the time that his members are on mountain, Todd and Saunders, and always the two Sherpas who have been to top numerous times and can guide them. There is only one technical section: at yellow tower (150m below C2 site about 6000m) because he knew there would be crowds on Ama Dablam, Todd had his Sherpas pitch C1 and C3 before BC.

  Times of arrival at summit:
    1 Nov about 10:30 am (descended to  C1 same day)
    2 Nov about  2:00 pm
    4 Nov about  1:30 pm


expid: AMAD05330
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Bruce Baillie
sponsor: DCXP Ama Dablam Expedition 2005
countries: New Zealand, UK
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2005-11-07
smtdate: 2005-11-11
smttime: 1410
termdate: 2005-11-13
campsites: BC(07/11,5400m),C1(08/11,5800m),C2(09/11,6000m),C3(10/11,6300m),Smt(11/11)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Allen, Baillie, Fraser, Jamiyang, Jamling and Densa Bhote left C3 at 0:900 hours, reached summit at 14:10, stayed at summit about 40 minutes, reached C3 at 1600 hours. Next day to C1.

  Rosemeyer could not continue due to tiredness from C3. Weather was cold, windy and clear. 

  Two other British started more or less same time but no idea if they had summited. The team returned to Kathmandu on Nov 16. Allen, Baillie and Rosemeyer are leaving on Nov 17. Fraser will go to Pokhara for paragliding and rafting on Nov 17 and will leave the country on Nov 25. Rosemeyer plans to come for Everest in 2007 possibly for north side.

  Nepalese summiters all from Hatiya-1, Sankhuwasabha
    Densa, 30/10/81 
    Jamling, 28/12/77, Everest North 30/5/05
    Jamiyang, 13/5/81


expid: AMAD05331
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Jay Reilly
sponsor: SummitClimb Ama Dablam Expedition 2005
countries: Canada, Finland, Germany, Israel, Romania, UK, USA
approach: Lukla->Pangboche
bcdate: 2005-10-07
smtdate: 2005-10-20
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2005-10-27
campsites: BC(07/10,4600m),ABC(09/10,5400m),C1(10/10,5800m),C2(12/10,6000m),C3(19/10,6300m),Smt(20-23)
accidents: Doron snowblindness (took glasses off for 1 hour)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  Nicholson, Austen, Bonfert, Lhakpa Chiri and Shera Sherpa reached summit at 9:30-10:30 am on 23 Oct.

  Team of 20 Oct left C3 at 7:30 am. Weather was windy and cloudy - no views from summit. They descended to C3 arriving at 1 pm. 21 Oct they descended to BC. 

  Team of 21 Oct left C3 at 8 am. Weather was windy with patchy cloud. They descended to C3 arriving at 3 pm. 

  Team of 22 Oct left at 7:30 am. Weather changeable. Patchy views from summit. Descended to C3 arriving at 3 pm. Next day BC. 

  Team of 23 Oct left C3 at 7:30 am. Weather perfect. They descended to C3 arriving at 2 pm.

  Boersma got to 5800m and abandoned climb on 18 Oct due to thrombosis. Left BC on 18 Oct on helicopter.

  Claude got to C1 but had to go home on 17 Oct as his wife broke her leg back home. He had to look after her.

  Coleman and Doron descended to C1 on 23 Oct due to Doron's snowblindness.

  Mazur got 6000m but left BC on 17 Oct to climb Island Peak for training with female Sherpas.

  Rosenthal got to ABC but left the team on 14 Oct as he was homesick.

  Sherpas:
    Nima Wangchu Sherpa, Chaurikharka-6, Solu, 1977
    Ang Shera Sherpa, Patle, Okhaldhunga-5, 1977
    Phuri Sherpa, Patle, Okhaldhunga-4, 1969, (Everest Spr 2004)
    Jangbu Sherpa, Patle, Okhaldhunga-9, 1966?, (Everest Spr 2004 and 2005)
    Tenji, Patle, Okhaldhunga-9, 1982, (Everest Spr 2004 and 2005)
    Lhakpa Chhiri Sherpa, Lokhim, Kurima, Solu, 1963?, (Everest Spr 2004)


expid: AMAD05332
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Brian McLoughlin
sponsor: Ice Gropers to Ama Dablam
approach: Lukla->Pangboche
bcdate: 2005-10-14
smtdate: 2005-10-23
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2005-10-25
campsites: BC(14/10,4600m),C1(17/10,5800m),C2(21/10,6100m),C3(22/10,6400m),Smt(23/10)
accidents: 2nd degree frostbite on both feet of Sean
agency: Independent Himalayan Adventure
routememo:
  Sean and Jangbu left C3 at 5 am. Weather was clear, no wind conditions good. Sean was wearing (Asolo) plastic boots but tied them too tight, which he thinks led to his frostbite. His toes felt cold but he did not worry about it. When he got back to C3 at noon he noticed his frostbitten feet. He thawed them at C3 with lukewarm water. The next day (24 Oct) he descended to BC (he descended to C2 in his plastic boots and to BC only in his inner boots). He was helicoptered out the following day. Doctors said he should not walk for 6 weeks. 

  Brian got as far C3 on 22 Oct but did not attempt to summit due to fatigue. He walked out of BC on 26 Oct.


expid: AMAD05333
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Reinhold Supersaxo
sponsor: Independent climber
approach: Lukla->Pangboche
bcdate: 2005-10-24
smtdate: 2005-11-05
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2005-11-08
campsites: BC(24/10,4700m),C1(29/10,5200m),C2(03/11,5700m),C3(04/11,6200m),Smt(05/11)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Team left C3 at 8 am. Weather was clear but very cold. They stayed on summit for about 30 minutes. They descended to C2 arriving in the dark at 7 pm. It took them so long because there were about 30 climbers on the mountain and which required long waits.


expid: AMAD05334
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Thomas Zwahlen
sponsor: Swiss Bergfalken Ama Dablam Expedition 2005
approach: Lukla->Pangboche
bcdate: 2005-10-27
smtdate: 2005-11-05
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2005-11-11
campsites: BC(27/10,4700m),C1(30/10,5700m),C3(04/11,6200m),Smt(05,07/11)
accidents: None
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Team of 5 Nov left C3 at 9 am. Weather was clear but windy. After summiting at 1 pm, they descended to C3 arriving at 2:30 pm.

  Team of 7 Nov left C3 at 7:30 am. Weather was clear and not windy. After summiting at 11:30 am, they descended to C1 arriving at 4 pm.

  Pemba Dorje (Rolwaling) summitted twice, second time from C3.


expid: AMAD05335
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Gundula Tackner
sponsor: Austrians on Ama Dablam (on Team Ascent permit)
approach: Gokyo->Kalapattar->Island Peak
bcdate: 2005-10-31
smtdate: 2005-11-03
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2005-11-05
campsites: BC(31/10,4500m),C1(01/11,5700m),C3(03/11,6200m),Smt(03/11)
agency: Nepal View Trekking
routememo:
  Team left C3 at 8 am. The weather was perfect but very cold. The previous night was very windy. After summiting they descended to C1, where they arrived at 4 pm. On 4 Nov they descended to BC and left the next day.


expid: AMAD05336
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Camillo Della Vedova
sponsor: Ama Dablam Nepal Expeditin 6856m
approach: Lukla->Pangboche
bcdate: 2005-10-25
smtdate: 2005-11-01
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2005-11-03
campsites: BC(25/10,4700m),C1(28/10,5700m),C2(31/10,6050m),Smt(01/11)
accidents: Giordani got frostbite on right hand
agency: Amuse Treks
routememo:
  Team left C2 at 6:15 am. Weather was good and no wind, However, view from summit was not so good due to clouds. They descended to C2, where they arrived at 5:30 pm. Giordani noticed his frostbite at 9 am on summit day. When he got to BC on 2 Nov he was treated by a doctor.

  Paruscio got mild AMS on 25 Oct and only stayed two nights at BC and returned to KTM on 9 Nov.

  Della Torre got to C2 on 31 Oct but descended to BC on 1 Nov due to exhaustion.

  Della Torre, Della Vedova and Lenatti wnet to Kalapattar after expedition and got back to KTM on 11 Nov. 

  Giordani returned to KTM on 6 Nov. 


expid: AMAD05337
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Eugenio Testa
sponsor: Italian Team 2005 to Ama Dablam
approach: Lukla->Lobuje East
bcdate: 2005-10-20
smtdate: 2005-10-31
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2005-11-06
othersmts: Lobuche East
campsites: BC(20/10,4500m),C1(25/10,5800m),C2(30/10,6063m),C3(2/11,6400m),Smt(31/10,03/11)
agency: Numbur Himal Treks
routememo:
  C1 team summited from C2
  C3 team did not stay at C2, summited from C3.

  Team of 31 Nov left C2 at 6:30 am. The weather was perfect. Good views. After summitting they descended to C2, where they arrived at 4 pm. On 1 Nov they descended to BC.

  Team of 2 Nov left C3 at 9 am. It was very cold and a bit windy (about 30 km/h). They descended to C3, where they spent the night as they were very cold. They arrived at 3 pm. On 4 Nov they descended to BC.


expid: AMAD05338
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Ryszard Pawlowski
sponsor: Patagonia Mountain Agency (PMA) Ama Dablam Expedition 2005
countries: Canada, France, Sweden
approach: Island Peak->Pangboche
bcdate: 2005-10-30
smtdate: 2005-11-05
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2005-11-11
campsites: BC(30/10,4700m),C1(01/11,5700m),C3(04/11,6300m),Smt(05,08/11)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Oblicki and Kaszycki left C3 at 8 am on 5 Nov. Saxstad and De Lev left at 11 am. Weather was clear and calm. After summit Oblicki and Kaszycki descended to C1. Arrived at 7 pm. De Lev and Saxstad descended to C3 and arrived at 5 pm.

  Team of 8 Nov left C3 at 10 am. Weather was calm and clear. After summit they descended to C3 and arrived at 5 pm.

  Galka only got to BC and did not climb higher as he was not feeling well and was inexperienced. He stayed at BC till end of expedition. Koscielny got to 5400m but did not go higher due to his age.

  Rymaszewski and Svenson got to 6200m (100m below C3) but turned around as it was too late (5 pm) and Pawlowski did not want them to climb steep section.


expid: AMAD05339
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Jose Angel Sanchez Sabalza
sponsor: Spanish Expedition to Ama Dablam (on Swiss permit)
approach: Kalapattar
bcdate: 2005-10-24
smtdate: 2005-11-03
smttime: 1215
termdate: 2005-11-06
campsites: BC(25/10,4700m),C1(28/10,5700m),C2(01/11,5900m),C3(02/11,6200m),Smt(03/11)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Team left C3 at 8 am. It was clear but windy and very cold. They stayed on the summit for about 20 minutes. They descended to C3 where they arrived at 3 pm. BC on 4 Nov.


expid: AMAD05340
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Peter Nichols
sponsor: Autumn 2005 Season's Expedition
countries: UK
approach: Lukla, climbed Chugima Ri, Pokalde, then Lobuche East
bcdate: 2005-11-18
smtdate: 2005-11-22
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2005-11-24
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East
campsites: BC(18/11,4785m),C1(19/11,5700m),C2(20/11,6100m),C3(21/11,6400m),Smt(22/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Climbed swiftly because had acclimatized on Lobuche East. After summiting, they spent the night of 22nd Nov in C3, went to C1 on 23rd and on 24th to BC and Thyangboche same day, and reached Lukla on 26th after spending night of 25th in Namche.


  Jen Hardy (by email) - 26 Feb 2006

  We flew to Lukla on Oct 30th, climbed Chugima Ri on Nov 9th, Pokalde on Nov 12th, then Lobuche East on Nov 15th. We both summited all of these.

  We summited Ama Dablam at about 1:30 pm on Nov 22nd. It was very clear and sunny, very cold, but only a mild wind. We descended and slept in C3 that night, and it became much more windy again overnight.

  We descended to C1 on Nov 23, then on the 24th continued down to BC and then Pangboche. We spent the night of Nov 24th in a lodge in Pangboche. Did not have any difficulty with the technical section of the climb. Neither of us had any health problems (apart from a little bit of on-going coughing), injuries or frostbite. We didn't use any supplemental oxygen. Did not use any Sherpa help for the climb, although we did use porters up to C1 and also used Henry Todd's tents.


expid: AMAD05341
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Eiichi Usami
sponsor: Team Ukyo Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 2005-11-09
smtdate: 2005-11-26
smttime: 1128
termdate: 2005-11-28
campsites: BC(09/11,4800m),C1(21/11,5900m),C2(25/11,6200m),Smt(26/11)
accidents: Usami slight frostnip in fingers
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Fixed rope from C2 to C3 site.

  Usami established BC on 9 Nov but had to wait for Katayama's arrived there on 17th (Katayama flew KTM/Syangboche 16th), so C1 occupation only on 21st (by both members). Left C2 for summit at 4:45 am, on top 11:28 am and C2 to sleep 13:30 pm. 20th to BC. Had strong wind above C3 site, otherwise good weather except very cold.


expid: AMAD05342
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Eric Larson
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Ama Dablam Expedition 2005
countries: UK
bcdate: 2005-11-20
smtdate: 2005-12-02
termdate: 2005-11-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to chest infection of Duncan (the client)
campsites: BC(20/11,4600m),C1(26/6400m),C2(01/12,6560m),xxx(02/12,6700m)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  Russo went to C2 with Kami Rita Sherpa (Thami) on 26th Nov, then on 27th they descended to BC and Russo went on to Pangboche some day because he had had enough climbing.

  Duncan and Larson occupied C2 on 1 Dec on 2 Dec they climbed up to about 6700m, then Duncan developed mild chest infection and decided to turn back, so he, Larson and Tshering Dorje (Kharikhola) descended to C1 and to BC on 3 Dec and climb finished.


expid: AMAD05343
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Choi Heung-Hwan
sponsor: 2005 Sanvit Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Pangboche
bcdate: 2005-11-10
smtdate: 2005-11-17
termdate: 2005-11-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to lack of strength (very slow)
campsites: BC(10/11,4600m),C1(13/11,5200m),C2(15/11,5800m),xxx(17/11,6000m)
agency: Korean Treks & Expeditions
routememo:
  Weather was clear but little windy. 

  Ku, Lee and Seo high point was C1, but no motivation to climb. They returned to Kathmandu on Nov 23 and left country on Nov 28.


expid: AMAD05344
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Joseph Acero
sponsor: Independent climber on Cho Oyu
bcdate: 2005-11-09
smtdate: 2005-11-17
smttime: 1307
termdate: 2005-11-19
campsites: BC(09/11,4600m),C1(13/11,5360m),C2(15/11,5600m),C3(16/11,6200m),Smt(17/11)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  Email to Miss Hawley from Joseph Acero - 8 Dec 2005

  Details on the Mountain

  Camp 1: I slept at C1 the nights of Nov 13 and 14. The recorded altitude on my "Brunton ADC Summit" device was 17,600 ft (although I know this fluctuated quite a bit with the barometric pressure throughout the trip).

  Camp 2: I slept at C2 on Nov 15. My recorded atitude was 18,500 ft (5600m). There were also members of a Korean team (who went down the next day) and I believe some British (not sure which expedition, however). We left for C3 the next morning and were alone on the route the rest of the way up above C2 to the summit.

  Camp 3: I slept at C3 on Nov 16 and 17. My recorded altitude was 20,300 ft (6200m). We had very high winds both nights which only subsided a bit during the day.

  Summit: On the 17th, we left C3 a few minutes after 8 am. We reached the summit at approximately 1:07 pm. We stayed on the summit approximately an hour. The wind was high and we were concerned with frostbite so we tried to hurry down. A few questionable anchors made the rapelling down slow. The last big section/pitch into C3 I really crashed physically and it took me an hour to cover ground that should have taken about 15 minutes. The weather changed with wind blown and actual snow falling and I'd become hypothermic. I believe we got back into C3 and completely into the tents approximately 5:30 pm although I confess I was not completely with it mentally and did not record the time in my journal. We left C3 the morning of the 18th and proceeded all the way to BC in one very long day.

  Return

  We broke BC on Nov 19. I stayed with Nima Tashi in his family home in Pangboche on Nov 19, 20 (when I met Eric Larson and Mark), and 21. I left Pangboche with Namgel on the morning of the 22. We stayed in Namche on the 22 and Lukla on the 23, returning to Kathmandu on the 24th.

  Health, Etc

  Other than Khumbu cough, I had zero health problems. Nima Tashi and Namgel were healthy the entire trip as well.

  We did not have one emergency bottle of oxygen with us and had it in position at C1. It was never used. Jim Williams was kind enough to make it available to me; he stores it in Nima's home in Pangboche where it was returned.

  My wife and I maintained a full blog of the expedition (I called daily via satellite phone).


expid: AMAD05345
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Paul Farmer
sponsor: Jagged Globe Ama Dablam Expedition 2005
countries: New Zealand
bcdate: 2005-11-23
smtdate: 2005-12-01
termdate: 2005-12-05
campsites: BC(23/11,4600m),C1(27/11,5700m),C2(29/11,5900m),C3(30/11,6300m),Smt(01/12)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  Very windy particularly at C3 and cold. 

  Hart reached C2, than developed mild cerebral edema and descended. 
  Page to C2, then chest infection and down.
  Sager to about 5800m because exhausted down and left expedition 30 Nov.


expid: AMAD05346
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Joachim Mietsch
sponsor: Independent climber
bcdate: 2005-10-19
smtdate: 2005-10-27
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2005-10-29
campsites: BC(19/10),ABC(5400m),C1(22/10),C2(27/10),C3(26/10),Smt(27/10)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  C2 occupied on descent from top only.

  Left C3 for top at 8:00 am and reached top at 1:00 pm, stayed there one hour in clear but windy weather with fine view.


expid: GYAJ05301
peakid: GYAJ
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Shigeyoshi Kido
sponsor: Japanese Alpine Club Toyama Gyajikang Expedition 2005
ascent1: 5th
approach: Kundi->Ngadi->Syange->Bagarchhap->Koto->Dharmasala->Kayang->Phugaon
bcdate: 2005-09-14
smtdate: 2005-09-26
smttime: 1120
termdate: 2005-09-30
campsites: BC(14/09,4800m),ABC(16/09,5200m),C1(17/09,5400m),C2(21/09,6131m),C3(25/09,6590m),Smt(26/09)
agency: Sansui Treks & Expeditions
routememo:
  All seven members and six Sherpas left C3 at 04:00 hours on Sept 26,summited at 11:20 hours, stayed at summit about one hour, returned to C3 at 14:15 hours. Next day to C1. While climbing, the team used two ladders each 5m long in two places below C1 to tackle ice wall of about 10m. The expedition team returned to Kathmandu on Oct 6 and will leave Nepal on Sept 27. 

  Kato climbed to 5500m and Kawamura climbed to 6350m.
   
  Nepalese Summiters:
    Man Bahadur Gurung (43 yrs), Sitalpati 6, Sankhuwasabha, Cho Oyu 4X
    Pasang Chhiring/Tshiring Sherpa (43), Lamabagar VDC, Dolakha, Ever 3X
    Dawa Sherpa (32), Tapting 9, Solukhumbu, Everest 2X
    Dambar Bahadur Gurung (42), Mugli VDC 8, Solukhumbu, summited 
     Gyajikang with Joint Nepal Police & Japanese Expedition
    Pemba Jangbu Sherpa (20), Jubing 7, Solukhumbu, no previous summits
    Kami Singh Tamang, Ramche VDC 4, Rasuwa District, no previous summits

  The expedition leader said it was new route, but according to Pasang Chhiring Sherpa the summit route was the same used by Japanese Shinshu University Joint Expedition. Only difference was the route between C2 and C3.

  The expedition team returned to Kathmandu on Oct 6 and will leave on 9th.


expid: LEOE05301
peakid: LEOE
year: 2005
route1: S Slope-N Face
nation: USA
leaders: Becky Harrison
sponsor: 50th Anniversary Women's Himalayan Expedition to Gyalgen Peak
countries: Japan
approach: Jalire->Kottike->Goltegaon->Ghumthang->Tempathang->Ladan Besi
bcdate: 2005-10-26
smtdate: 2005-11-03
termdate: 2005-11-05
termnote: Abandoned at 5872m due to very difficult terrains, lack of time, and the peak was too far away
campsites: BC(26/10,3583m),C1(30/10,4205),C2(31/10,4736m),C3(02/11,5262m),xxx(03/11,5872m)
agency: Karnana Treks
routememo:
  When Desimone, Kizaki, Pasang Sherpa, Mingma Sherpa, Gyalgu Sherpa and Gelu Sherpa reached C3, the climbers found that Gyalgen Peak was too far away from the camp. Then they decided to go up to a higher point to look at Gyalgen. The climbers and four Sherpas climbed the West Ridge of Jugal Himal (5872m). Both Harrisons stayed at BC and did not go beyond BC. The team returned to Kathmandu on Nov 10 and will leave on different dates. Leader leaves on Dec 01. 

  One of the members of the 1955 Gyalgen Peak Expedition Mrs Evelyn Camrass McNicol, who was trekking member of 2005 Gyalgen expedition, said that their Gyalgen peak is wrongly placed on the HMG (Finn) map. The place where map shows Lampogan West is actually the Gyalgen Peak which was climbed/summited by the 1955 expedition. Mrs. Camrass indicated the 1955 route on map while she was visiting Miss Hawley.

  BC at top edge of dense forest and just before icefalls starts (bad icefalls) on south slope.
  C1 at level spot in between icefalls.
  C2 at level section between icefalls.
  C3 at top of series of icefalls.
  High point at around from which to gain view of their mountain high point was southwest of C3.

  Sherpas who reached high point:
    Pasang Sherpa, Patle-6, Okhaldhunga, 19/2/78
    Mingma Norbu Sherpa, Lokhim-8, Solu, 3/12/67
    Gyalju Sherpa, Taksindu-6, Solu, 3/12/63
    Pasang Gelu Sherpa, Lokhim-9, Solu, 17/1/79


  Gyalgen Peak Itinerary
  Dates: Oct 12 - Nov 15, 2005

  Oct 12 - Arrive in Kathmadu

  Oct 13-17 - Last minute arrangements for departure Load bus and depart for         village of Jalbire, which is situated on the Balephi Khola. Walk for an hour outside of town and camp.

  Oct 18-21 - Follow the Balephi Khola until reaching the village of Tempathang.

  Oct 22 - After Tempathang the Balephi Khola gorge narrows until we reach a fork in the river. The river heading north drains glaciers from the Langtang Himal and the other river running from the east is draining run off from Dorje Lhakpa's glacier and Phurbi Chyachu. We'll camp here for the night.

  Oct 23 - Rest day. Today we'll take a day off to wash clothing and to check our food stores.

  Oct 24 - The Eastern fork will take us to our objective. We'll pass a side river running off of Dorje Lhakpa glacier and Phurbi Chhyachu will be visible straight ahead. Today will take us to 3500m with forests of beautiful pines and open meadows. We'll be camping for the night in a kharka with huts and other enclosures for our staff.

  Oct 25 - Today we'll hike further up the valley and will arrive at our base camp just in front of scouting out options for getting onto the glacier.

  Oct 26 - We'll spend today moving gear to our advanced base camp and fixing ropes if needed for the start of our climb tomorrow.

  Oct 27 - Early morning we'll start to ascend the glacier setting up camp I. If everything goes well we'll stay up at camp I. This might also be the last time for a few days that we see the trekkers in our group. Once we have everything we need hauled onto the glacier we'll have the staff move everything from ABC to BC.

  Oct 28-Nov 4 - On glacier, will try to summit Gyalgen Peak and then head back down. Trekkers can take day hikes or take staff and visit Panch Pokhari. If trekking group leaves area they need to be back to base camp by Nov 3, in case we finish our climb early.

  Nov 5 - Return to BC.

  Nov 6-8 - If all went well on Gyalgen Peak and we feel up to it, we'll try to climb a 5800m peak that isn't named that sits next to  Phurbi Chhyachu peak.

  Nov 9-13 - Head down the valley back to Tempathang.


expid: HIML05301
peakid: HIML
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Daniel Petraud
sponsor: Himlung Himal Expedition
countries: Switzerland
approach: Besisahar->Koto->Phugaon
bcdate: 2005-10-16
smtdate: 2005-10-19
termdate: 2005-10-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to bad weather, too much snow
campsites: BC(16/10,4860m),ABC(17/10,5200m),C1(18/10,5700m),xxx(19/10,6200m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  On 19 Oct team climbed to C2 to deposit gear and they descended to ABC, where they arrived at 3 pm. The next day it snowed all day and night, so the team decided to abandon climb. It snowed about 2 meters.

  On 21 Oct they walked from BC to Phu. They left 8:30 am and arrived at midnight. They spent two nights in Phu and left by helicopter on 23 Oct.


expid: HIML05302
peakid: HIML
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Denis Crabieres
sponsor: Gaia Themis Himlung Expedition 2005
countries: Germany
approach: Besisahar->Thal->Phu
bcdate: 2005-10-05
smtdate: 2005-10-15
termdate: 2005-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6421m due to fatigue (climb from C2 too long)
campsites: BC(05/10,4880m),C1(08/10,5270m),C2(14/10,6200m),xxx(15/10,6421m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Team left C2 at 3 am and got to high point at 5:30 am. They descended 200m to the Pass, where they arrived at 7 am. The team decided collectively that it was too late and they were too tired to go on. They think they made a mistake by not having a third camp. They descended to BC the same day, where they arrived at 6 pm.

  Team came back from Nar by helicopter as they were stranded there due to too much snow. They could not cross pass to Hongde.


expid: KGUR05301
peakid: KGUR
year: 2005
route1: SW Face-NW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Daniel Stolzenberg
sponsor: Mt. Kang Guru Expedition 2005
approach: Besisahar->Jagat->Pisang->Ngawal->Kanla->BC Nar
bcdate: 2005-10-13
smtdate: 2005-10-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to avalanche killing all 7 members and 11 of 12 staff
campsites: BC(13/10,4200m),C1(16/10,5300m),C2(17/10,6000m),xxx(18/10,6000m)
accidents: 7 French and 11 Nepali staff killed by avalanche
agency: Churen Himal Treks
routememo:
  The expedition team reached BC on Oct 13 at 4200-4300m (Dawa says that is the only place wide enough for BC).
  Performed puja on Oct 14.
  Established C1 on Oct 15 at 5300m
  Used C1 on Oct 16 by members and staff.
  Established C2 on Oct 17 at 6000m (about) (not occupied)
  Oct 18 members climbed upt o C2 for acclimatization and returned to C1 same day.
  Oct 19 rest day. Snowfall and wind started at about 12:00 hours. C1 was covered with snow about 3 feet.
  Oct 20 members and staff left C1 for BC around 08:00 hours - snowing all the way down to BC.
  About 16:00 hours BC hit by avalanche.

  Four porters, Lhakpa Lopchen, Dawa Tashi Lama, Lhakpa Singi Ghising and Sarki Tamang, were inside the tent, which was about 7-8m away from the BC at a little bit higher elevation. The tent was swept down more than 100m (as estimated by the first search team). They managed to come out of the tent and started whistling, hoping that somebody may come to help them. They waited for a while and started climbing towards the BC. There was nothing at the BC site. The BC site was like flat snowfield. Then the porters decided to go to Meta (nearby village). None of them had boots or gloves. They reached Meta about 20:30 hours. The four porters were served hot drinks by Kumar (full name not known) of GH (maybe GHA) at the hotel. Kumar was staying in the hotel with two foreign trekkers (may be French). Next day Kumar left for Chame to inform about the accident to Kathmandu. Kumar met Ratna Chuli Expedition team at Dharamshala and return with them to Meta. Around 12:00 hours they informed Churen Himal about the accident by the sat-phone of Ratna Chuli Expedition.

  HRA with the assistance of the French Embassy in KTM gathered a seven-member search and rescue team led by Padam Ghale in standby to go to the site on Oct 22 itself. However due to unavailability of helicopter, the team could leave only in the morning of Oct 23 to Chame. From Chame the team members and the equipment were taken to Meta (3500m) in two sorties. The helicopter returned to Kathmandu with three injured porters who got medical treatment at the Teaching Hospital. Porter Sarki Tamang's both feet were frostbitten (his condition is improving - Dawa). The head porter Dawa Tashi Lama was kept in Meta to guide the the search team to the BC.

  On Oct 24, the search team found some goods in the BC site and no sign of bodies. The team estimated that the bodies might have been swept into the deep gorges about 500m below the BC and technically it would not be possible for the small search team without appropriate equipment to continue the search. On the same evening additional support team of eleven Nepalis and a French Ansalmo Bo arrived Meta together with the President of HRA, Bikram Neupane. Mr. Neupane returning from the site, referring to the search team leader Padam Ghale, said that there is no hope of finding anybody alive.

  The search work started from 7 am under the leadership of Ansalmo Bo on Oct 25. The body of Bruno Chardin was found around 8:30 am. The body was left at a little lower place and due to risk of possible avalanche the team descended to Meta. Next day the search team started its work from 7 am. The body of Chardin brought down to Meta and same day to Kathmandu with the returning search team. The team left two persons including the head porter of the expedition Dawa Tashi Lama in Meta to guard the avalanche hit area and to monitor weather condition. Nima Sherpa (training instructor NMA), one of the members of the search team, on return to Kathmandu said that the condition of the avalanche hit area is very bad and weather too is bad for continuing the search work. There have been avalanches more than twice while working at BC. The team could work only for one and one-half hours in the morning. There is a risk of avalanche after 11:30 am. The BC is covered with more than 3.5m deep snow. It was very difficult to carry on digging work at the BC. Nima said the BC camp was placed in normal camp site for the expedition, which is about 4200m. He said the search work would continue after consultation with the French Embassy.

  The report submitted to HRA by Padam Ghale on Oct 27 contains list of goods found in the avalanche hit area (BC) which are 1 North Face tent, 1 mattress, 2 identity/citizenship cards, 3 caps, 1 toilet bag (ladies), 1 gas stove, 1 rucksack, a wrist watch, and gloves.

  Addressing a press conference organized by the French Embassy in Kathmandu on Oct 27, Serge Koenig, mountain guide and mountain advisor of Jean-Francois Lamour, French Minister for Youth and Sports, said that he was satisfied with the rescue operation carried by Nepali rescue team. He informed that two experts specialized in post-avalanche search operation with two sniffer dogs trained for mountain rescue, with special equipment, will be arriving Kathmandu on Oct 28 to continue search operation. The search operation has been halted for sometime due to snowfall and likelihood of avalanche. But it will resume within few days when weather gets clear.

  The second team of 30 people including 5 French together with 2 sniffer dogs reached Meta at 12:25 pm on Oct 31. On Nov 1 the team of 27 people started the search work at the site and three members were stationed in Meta to monitor weather conditions, communication and reporting. The team found an unidentified French member's body around 2:10 pm.

  On Nov 2, the search work started from the morning. Sites of search was divided for the day into four sites; upper site, lower site of BC, BC area, and in the gorge about 365m below the BC. Accordingly, a French member with sniffer dog to upper site, two French members to the gorge area, three Nepalis to BC area and rest of the members to lower site were assigned. The team found 1 North Face duffle bag, 1 North Face tent, 1 Samsung camera, 1 sunglass, 1 bottle Scotch whiskey, 2 tables, 1 chair, and some clothing. Around 4 pm the team returned to Meta Camp.

  On Nov 3, the team headed for the the assigned sites around 9:15 am. Around 10 am the French ambassador, President of HRA, and a journalist arrived Meta in helicopter for site observation and information. The visiting team left Meta after an hour's discussion. As indicated by sniffer dogs in the BC and about 150m below the BC, snow digging started for about 6 hours. The digging was about 6 to 7 meters deep but did not find anything. Search work continued on Nov 3 around BC for about 5 hours but nothing was found. The day ended up bringing down the unidentified body, which was found on Nov 1, to Meta. The second search team left Meta in two groups for Kathmandu with the dead body. The search was called off due to snow conditions and approaching winter. The equipment used during the search was coffin, avalanche search stick, walkie-talkie, metallic search device, satellite phone, dead-man snow bar, snow shovel, dynamic and static ropes, binoculars, and a Honda generator.

  Churen Himal Trekking agency sent an 11-member team to Kang Guru on Nov 14 basically to collect goods left by the expedition on the mountain. The team found the body of Manilal Gurung (porter) on Nov 17 about 400m below the BC. The body was cremated in Meta few days later. The team also found 3 washing bowels and a steel plate. The team could not go beyond BC due to deep soft snow conditions. Churen Himal may send next team when snow condition gets better.
      
  Liaison officer of the expedition, D. B. Thapa, last contacted on Oct 24 from Pokhara according to Biswa Raj Nepal of Churen Himal.

  List of deceased Nepali expedition members and staff.

  01 Iman Gurung            Guide                  Laprak 6, Gorkha
  02 Pema Nuru Sherpa       Climbing Sherpa        Gaurishankar 1, Dolakha
  03 Ang Pasang Sherpa      Climbing Sherpa        Jubing 3, Solukhumbu
  04 Sher Bahadur Gurung    Cook                   Laprak 2, Gorkha
  05 Chandra Man Gurung     Kitchen Boy            Laprak 1. Gorkha
  06 Birlal Gurung          Kitchen Boy            Laprak 9, Gorkha
  07 Manilal Gurung         Kitchen Boy            Laprak 2, Gorkha
  08 Arun Raj Gurung        Local Sherpa           Gumda 7, Gorkha
    (Iman's brother in law)              
  09 Dulal(Mahila) Gurung   Porter                 Laprak 9, Gorkha
  10 Kam Bahadur Gurung     Porter                 Laprak 3, Gorkha
  11 Sahila Gurung          Porter                 Laprak 6, Gorkha

  All the Gurungs listed above are related.

  The seven members French Kang Guru expedition led by Daniel Stolzenberg arrived Kathmandu on September 30 and left for mountain on Oct 3, 2005. Kang Guru is located in Manang District in mid-Western Nepal.

  Bodies of five French and 10 Nepalis are still buried under the snow somewhere on Kang Guru slopes.

  Biswa Raj Nepal of Churen Himal Trekking said that ENSA has set up a fund (Fund for Kang Guru Solidarity) to help the families of Nepali Kanguru victims. Initial monetary help has already been given to four families by ENSA Prof. Jean Coudray, who is in Kathmandu for trek. Coudray will give the fund to rest of the families on his return from Khumbu to KTM on Dec 6 at the French Embassy (each family will get Rs 39000+).


  E. Hawley interview with Jean Coudray, noted French climbing instructor - 8 Dec 2005

  Q. I understand that this autumn's Kang Guru expedition placed their base camp at the normal base camp site. Some people have suggested that this is not a safe place for it.

  A. In this area, there is no place for base camp that is completely safe; there is no safer site for it than the one used. But then the "the cost of mountaineering is a little risk." There was heavy snowfall for 24 hours, and the resulting avalanching was made of powder snow, the worst kind of avalanche because this sort travels down a slope of 30 degress or more very fast -- 200 or more kms per hour -- and its "target" is impossible to predict: it can shift direction often. In this case, this kind of avalanche targeted base camp.

  Q. What is the compensation that is being paid to the Nepalese victim's families?

  A. Now the initial payment is Rs 40,000 (nearly US$550). The plan for the future is to open a bank account in Kathmandu into which funds will be paid from France, and to arrange a study of how many children each family has, their ages and so on, and their precise needs in such matters as education, medical expenses, perhaps building a home. Then based on need and on the amount of funds received in France, a small committee of French and Nepalese men based in Kathmandu will supervise disbursement of these funds and monitor how they are spent. At the same time, it is hoped that a sort of godfather or godmother for each child can be found in France to follow their godchild's progress and occasionally visit Nepal personally.

  Coudray, who is a member of the committee, has not yet visited the base camp site, but he has discussed it with previous a Kang Guru leader. He plans to go there early in 2006 in memory of his friends at ENSA (The National School for Skiing and Alpinism in Chamonix) who died there and to do some searching for bodies still buried under the avalanche debris.


expid: PUMO05303
peakid: PUMO
year: 2005
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Angelo Giovanetti
sponsor: Pumori Italian Expedition
ascent1: 152
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pheriche->Lobuche
bcdate: 2005-10-26
smtdate: 2005-11-11
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2005-11-12
othersmts: De Leo summited Ama Dablam on Oct 31 (AMAD-053-37)
campsites: BC(26/10,5400m),C1(06/11,5700m),C2(10/11,6400m),Smt(11/11)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  De Leo, Giovanetti and Jangbu Sherpa left C2 on Nov 11 at 06:30 hours, summited at 12:30 hours,  stayed at summit about 10 minutes, descended to BC at 17:30 hours. Weather was good, clear, little windy on summit. There were not any other expeditions on Pumori. Giovanetti team was the last one. De Leo reached Pumori BC on Nov 4. The team returned to KTM on Nov 17. 

  Giovanetti will leave on Nov 19 and De Leo on Nov 22. 

  Two members Cavosi and Nazavio left BC on Oct 28 and left Nepal on Nov 3. Cavosi suffered from throat problem and Nazavio from minor pulmonary edema. 

  Giovanetti plans to come for Makalu with small group in spring.

  Sherpa summiter:
    Ang Zangbu Sherpa, 30 year old, Jantarkoni, Patle, Okhaldhunga, 
      1st summit of any mountain


expid: RATC05301
peakid: RATC
year: 2005
route1: S Face (intended)
nation: France
leaders: Patrick Montaigne
sponsor: Ratna Chuli 2005
countries: Israel
approach: Besisahar->Koto
smtdate: 2005-10-22
termnote: Abandoned on 22 Oct due to too much snow
campsites: xxx(20/10,3500m)
agency: South Asian Treks
routememo:
  Did not reach mountain.

  Team got stuck in Meta due to too much snow. The mules would not have been able to get through. On 21 Oct team met 2 surviving porters from the Kang Guru avalanche (9:30 am). Just above Dharamsala (they were on their way to Meta). They rang French Embassy and security services from Meta (before that they had no satellite reception).

  5 members of the team  (except Gilboa and Mrs Savary Montagne) climbed Chulu East.


expid: SHAL05301
peakid: SHAL
year: 2005
route1: S Face (intended)
nation: UK
leaders: Owen Samuel
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Shalbachum Expedition 2005
approach: Langtang Khola->Kyanjin Gumpa
bcdate: 2005-10-19
smtdate: 2005-10-19
termdate: 2005-10-20
termnote: Abandoned on 20th Oct due to unexpected avalanching (did no climbing above BC)
campsites: BC(19/10,5000m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Did no climbing because 4 cm of snow during the day. They were at BC and therefore thought would be an avalanching problem. No time to look at another route than their South Face and anyway avalanche problem probably elsewhere on mountain.


expid: SIMN05301
peakid: SIMN
year: 2005
route1: E Ridge from S
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Sergei Kovalev
sponsor: Ukrainian P-2 Expedition
approach: Arughat->Soti Khola->Jagat->Deng->Namru->Gompa
bcdate: 2005-10-04
smtdate: 2005-10-13
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2005-10-15
campsites: BC(04/10,3850m),ABC(09/10,4600m),C1(12/10,5350m),E-Smt(13/10)
achievment: 1st ascent on this route
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  Bublyk, Kovalek, Lavrynenko and Verbytsky left C1 at 06:00 hours on 13th, summited at 15:00 hours, stayed about 10 minutes, back to C1 at 18:30 hours. Next day to BC. Weather was very bad: snowfall and windy. During the expedition period only one or two days weather was fair. The team returned to Kathmandu on Oct 20 and will leave on 22. P-II, according to Kovalev, was open for climbing specially for Ukrainians to climb it in celebration of 10th Anniversary of Ukraine in 2001 Spring. P-II was summited by Ukrainians team via East Ridge from north side.

  Dubrovik left BC about Oct 11 and left Nepal on Oct 15 due to his business back home. He did not like to wait for weather to improve after so many days in BC.


  Bublyk & Lavrynenko - 11 April 2007

  The 2005 climb did not succeed but reached only east summit. This was a reconnaissance trip.


expid: TASH05301
peakid: TASH
year: 2005
route1: NE Ridge (intended)
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
sponsor: Hidden Valley Expedition 2005
approach: Jomsom->Dhampus Pass->BC
bcdate: 2005-11-12
smtdate: 2005-11-14
termdate: 2005-11-15
termnote: Abandoned about 20 Nov due to porters refusal to continue in deep snow
campsites: Dhampus BC(12/11,5050m),Smt Dhampus(14/11,6012m)
agency: Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
routememo:
  Had planned to go from Jomsom to Kagbeni but decided to take easier route to Marpha, south of Jomsom and thence through Dhaulagiri's Hidden Valley instead. So much snow ahead from Marpha north, they took few porters and light loads now to climb Thapa Peak (Dhampus Peak). Made BC on the 12 Nov east of Thapa Pass, scaled Dhampus Peak 14 Nov. Summit bid made by all members except Chesnel (who did not want to go up). Left camp at 9:00 am just walking to top, which reached by Adoult, Grobel and Naude at 3:00 pm and back to camp 5:00-7:00 pm. Slow descent because of knee-deep snow. On 15th left BC for Marpha.

  Then hoped to go north and west to Sanga village and explore that area and see what peak might be interesting to attempt. But because of deep snow, porters refused to cross Sanga Pass, so party returned without crossing pass and climbing idea abandoned. 

  Chavy left expedition 19 Nov to return to France.


expid: TKPO05301
peakid: TKPO
year: 2005
route1: N Face
nation: Canada
leaders: Will Gadd
sponsor: Tengkangpoche Expedition
countries: USA
bcdate: 2005-10-12
smtdate: 2005-10-29
termdate: 2005-11-03
termnote: Abandoned at 5200m due to lack of ice and 1 member's illness
campsites: BC(12/10,4300m),Biv(16/10,5100m),xxx(29/10,5200m)
accidents: Simper very sick (brucellosis which he contracted in Canada) and left 26 Oct
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at village of Tengpo
  Biv at 5100m on North Face
  High point at North Face to right of main buttress.

  Attempted two lines to reach summit, one on 29th and one on 30th but turned around at 5200m via both.


  Emails from Will Gadd to Miss Hawley

  Oct 16 made biv at 5100m.
  Oct 29 we also attempted another lined on Oct 30 but were turned around
         by unstable snow around 5200m also.

  Simper got very sick and left BC on 26th to recuperate elsewhere.

  I made one bivouac on the face around 5100m; after that we made one more attempt and were turned around by poor ice at around the same altitude.

  After Scot Simper got sick, Semple and I climbed together. We also did several acclimatization trips in the surrounding peaks while waiting for Scott Semple (too many Scott's) to recover from a bug that slowed him down.

  Scott Semple and I got to about 5200m. There are several possible lines on the face, we were climbing to the right of the main buttress up the obvious ice flows (that were snow unfortunately).

  Lack of ice, sickness (Scott Simper came down with rare bacteria that normally infects cattle, brucellosis; he got it from eating bad meat in Northern Canada on another trip).

  It's steep, big and very technical. We did not have enough ice, time, motivation or equipment on this trip.

  We're too lazy to carry oxygen, and the terrain is far too technical for those not trained in high angle climbing to safely ascend on. I also don't believe in oxygen for climbing mountains. Messner proved that it was possible to climb high without it; using it today is like running a 4 minute mile using a bicycle - not the same thing really.


expid: CHOL04401
peakid: CHOL
year: 2004
route1: N Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Park Jung-Hun, Choi Kang-Sik
bcdate: 2005-01-02
smtdate: 2005-01-16
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2005-01-17
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East
campsites: BC(4200m,02/01),Biv1(5650m,13/01),Biv2(5900m,14/01),Biv3(c6300m,15/01),Smt(16/01)
accidents: Park and Choi fell into a small crevasse (Park fractured leg and Choi broken leg)
agency: None
routememo:
  Cholatse, first winter ascent of the North Face by new variants to the French Route.

  Koreans, Park Jung-Hun and Choi Kang-Sik reached the summit of 6440m Cholatse at midday on January 16, 2005, having made the first winter ascent of the North Face. The two arrived at base camp (4200m) on January 2 and climbed Lobuche East to acclimatize. Due to the onset of poor weather on the 9th, the two men were unable to begin their alpine-style ascent until the 13th. They opted to travel as light as possible, packing for only one night out and two days climbing. They took a 55-liter rucksack, two 55m ropes (7mm and a 5mm Kevlar), 15 pitons, 10 slings, two quick-draws, four screws, a fish-hook, three RURPs, two snow stakes, a bivouac sac each, one gas canister, one stove, two Sierra cups, power bars, power gel, coffee, cocoa, and only two biscuits between the two.

  Before sunrise the two men trudged through crusty snow to reach the main wall and began climbing the lower section via three pitches on a moderate 60-degree spur. After the fifth pitch they followed a c80-degree couloir roughly seven meters wide, where each pitch of blue ice took anything from 40 minutes to one and a half hours to climb. At around 1 pm the climbers reached a difficult section of black ice at 5600m. One pitch above this, at c5650m, they made their first bivouac.

  By 8:00 the following morning Park had worked through an overhanging section using RURPs and a fish-hook. The pair then made a short traverse left and climbed four pitches of 75-degree mixed climbing to reach a fork in the couloir at 5900m. Here, they made their second bivouac.

  The next morning, they followed the right branch, a 65-degree couloir, and made their third bivouac on the NW Ridge just five pitches shy of the summit. They began their trudge to the top by eight the next morning, summitted around noon, shot three rolls of film, then began their descent of the SW Ridge. In order to speed their descent they left pitons and ice-screws behind and by 4 pm had made it down to walk-able terrain. Here, they shortened the length of rope between them.

  Low on the glacier Choi suddenly fell 25m into a rimaye about one meter wide and 50m deep. He broke a leg and Park fractured ribs in his fall. By the time Choi had been brought to the surface, freezing darkness had already descended. Despite being only four hours from the nearest habitation, Na La, their injuries, lack of provisions and total exhaustion forced them to bivouac for a fourth night. Finally, the two men reached Na La the next day and asked an elderly man to summon a rescue helicopter immediately. Both climbers were successfully evacuated but Park was eventually to loose eight fingers, while Choi suffered the loss of nine fingers and all of his toes. Unfortunately, all the camera film was lost in the rimaye and while Park returned the following spring to see if he could find the camera and film, he was unsuccessful. This ascent is the most dramatic and, despite the injuries, most acclaimed effort out of all the winter alpine-style first ascents made by Koreans.


expid: DORJ05401
peakid: DORJ
year: 2005
route1: S Face-W Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Philipp Kunz
sponsor: Winter 2005 Dorje Lhakpa Expedition
ascent1: 18th
approach: Langtang Khola->Langshisa Ri Kharka->Trupdiku->Langshisa Tsang
bcdate: 2006-01-31
smtdate: 2006-02-07
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2006-02-10
campsites: BC(31/01,4450m),C1(03/02,4950m),C2(04/02,5300m),C3(06/02,5600m),Smt(07/02)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Walung Treks
routememo:
  BC at 1 days walk west of West Ridge (normal site)
  C1 at South Face
  C2 at West Ridge
  C3 at West Ridge.

  Left C3 at 3:00 am 7 Feb all 4 together; on top Sherpas 11:00 am and Kunz 11:10 am and down to C2 at 8:00 pm; in BC 8 Feb. "Very hard climb" because every day cold and on blue ice in some sections of above C3 and one blue icefield C2-C3, so required mountaineering knowledge.

  Kunz claims ascent of Langshisa Ri 26 Jan 2003 as one-member team; he was also a member of German Amical Alpin Dhaulagiri I expedition (led by Netzer) in Spring 2000.


expid: KTUN05401
peakid: KTUN
year: 2005
route1: N side
nation: Japan
leaders: Shinji Sato
sponsor: Hokkaido Khatung Kang Expedition
approach: Kathmandu->Jomsom->Kagbeni->Muktinath->BC
bcdate: 2006-01-02
smtdate: 2006-01-03
termdate: 2006-01-04
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to strong wind, time limit, unsufficient fixed rope
campsites: BC(02/01,5200m),xxx(03/01,6100m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  High point at no camp - on north ride (covered with snow and on left side was crevasse).

  Left Kathmandu for Pokhara by air on 23rd Dec 2005. Stayed in Pokhara for 3 nights delayed to arrive BC. 3 lost days affected the climbing programme. Arrived BC on 2 Jan 2006. On next day 3 Jan 2006, they attacked to the summit from BC altitude at 5200m. All Japanese members including 4 Nepalese climbers up to 6100m. Due to strong wind, insufficiency of 200m more fixed rope and time latitude, they abandoned climbing on same day.

  All four Tamangs are full brothers.


expid: MAKA05401
peakid: MAKA
year: 2005
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Christophe Lafaille
sponsor: Makalu Solo winter
approach: By helicopter to Hillary BC (about 5200m)
bcdate: 2005-12-18
smtdate: 2006-01-27
termdate: 2006-01-27
termnote: Disappeared (fell into crevasse?)
campsites: BC(18/12,5500m),C1(09/01,6900m),C2(26/01,7600m),xxx(26/01,7600m),xxx(27/01,7700m+)
accidents: Lafaille disappeared (fell into crevasse?)
achievment: 1st winter solo attempt
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Highest point reached then was 7600m from which he left for summit push at 4:30 am 27 Jan; 7600m north side of NW Ridge - area above badly crevased so very difficult to find way through with no one belaying you to reach French gully - was -35 degrees Centrigrade inside his tent so maybe -45 degrees outside without stove. If Lafaille fell into crevassse which is most likely why he is missing, he would die of hypothermia in 20-30 minutes if he got lodged/wedged inside it with ice against his body. He reported to his wife Katia, who was also his manager, three times a day and his last report was at 4:30 am on 27 Jan. 

  There is no possibility of search and rescue on mountain itself where there is no one else around why rescue by soloing. He took risks Gustafsson would never take (such as making traverse of Annapurna I's East Ridge in 2002 spring when Gustafsson turned back). Lafaille "world's greatest climber," was amazing on rock and ice and that is what was there was on Makalu this winter, as Gustafsson saw 4 Feb nothing in half hour helicopter flight from Makalu BC to about 7000m (and then winds prevented flying any higher) looking for sign of Lafaille and seeing only his red tent at 6700m. "Is there any hope of his having survived?" to be honest with you, No". But tent with sleeping bag, mattress, stove, gas, food, etc. left for him at BC on 4 Feb when other items packed up and brought to KTM.


  Lafaille Dies in Solo Bid on Makalu
  By Elizabeth Hawley, February 2006

     The well-known French mountaineer, Jean-Christophe Lafaille, 40 years old, vanished on 27 January 2006 while attempting to make an entirely solo ascent of Makalu.
     The highest he is known to have reached is 7600m, where he pitched his small red tent on the 26th and from which he set out alone for the top early in the morning of the 27th, as he reported by satellite phone to his wife Katya in France. This was expected to be the first of his reports to her that day. But he never made contact with her or his base camp staff again.
     A search of the mountain side on the 4th of February by helicopter by his wife, her brother and Veikka Gustafsson, a Finnish mountaineer who had climbed with Lafaille and knows from his own ascent the climbing route Lafaille was following. They saw only his little tent and no other trace of him.
     The search team left at base camp for him a tent with sleeping bag, stove, food, fuel and a few other necessities in case he did manage to get there alive. But Gustafsson knew there was no hope that he survived, and Gustafsson thought he knew exactly what had happened to Lafaille.
     Ten years previously, Gustafsson himself had climbed the same standard route that Lafaille was following. He had two climbing partners with him, Ed Viesturs and a New Zealander, Rob Hall, and he led most of the final part to the summit. He found this section had numerous treacherous crevasses. He fell into three of them but was always belayed and emerged unscathed. Lafaille had no one to belay him, and Gustafsson was sure that the Frenchman fell into one and becase fatally wedged against two walls of ice.
     Gustafsson considers Lafaille to have been "one of the world's greatest climbers." If he had succeeded, Lafaille would have been the first person to solo Makalu in winter. He had already attempted Makalu unsuccessfully in the spring of 2004 in an earlier solo bid by a different route which approached the mountain from Tibet.
     Makalu was one of only three 8000m mountains he had not yet summited.
     

  Mario Vielmo, leader of Italian expedition to Makalu in Spring 2006 - 2 June 2006 

  The small red tent at 7600m on Makalu is not Lafaille's. It is Polish made and has Polish food inside, but there is a small red tent at about 7800m on the north side of Makalu near the rocks of the icefall. This broken tent was near a big serac, so Vielmo stayed about 10m away from it and therefore did not look inside it.


expid: PUMO05401
peakid: PUMO
year: 2005
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Ryou Kenn-Se
sponsor: Choongju Farmers Pumori Expedition
ascent1: 153
bcdate: 2005-11-30
smtdate: 2005-12-07
termdate: 2005-12-08
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak 26 Nov
campsites: BC(30/11,5600m),C1(06/12,6300m),Smt(07/12)
accidents: Kim frostbite toe of both feet (no loss)
agency: Happy Treks
routememo:
  BC at above Gorak Shep near lake
  C1 at normal C2 site.

  1st to Island Peak. Occupied only one camp above BC but pitched a camp above C1 at East Col in case of emergency but never used it. "We were very lucky - we had beautiful weather - wind not so strong as on Ama Dablam last year."

  Jung went to 6800m then too tired to go on. Kang to 5800m then not strong enough for difficult route Sherpas said day ahead. Kim to 6800m then too tired to go on (did not know at the time he turned back that toes on both feet had gotten frostbitten - tips are black but serious).


expid: TKPO05401
peakid: TKPO
year: 2005
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Guillermo Mateo
sponsor: Tengkangpoche Winter Expedition
approach: Thami
bcdate: 2006-01-14
smtdate: 2006-01-24
termdate: 2006-01-28
termnote: Abandoned at 5400m due to mountain too dry
othersmts: Attempted Parchamo
campsites: BC(14/01,4230m),Biv(24/01,5400m),xxx(24/01,5400m)
accidents: Gonzalez slightly frostbitten; no injury from falling stones
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC at Thyangpo Kharka
  Biv in small couloir
  High point at biv.

  Acclimatized on Parchermo only to 5900m on 21 Jan because of strong winds, then back to BC same day. 24th 3 members up from BC and up couloir of hard snow to its top at 5100m then traversed to right to small couloir where stones coming down but up it anyway; all bare rock, no snow, no ice in -14 degree temperature at BC therefore about -20-25 in 2nd couloir. Biv at 5:30 pm at 5400m. 25th down. Wanted to climb on ice because safer and can do it faster - then changed line to left; started up at 1:00 am of 28th by Mateo and Vidal (other had slightly frostbitten toes). Looked for an ice couloir, climbing over many long and little stones from earlier avalanches and more stones coming down; lost their way on moraine and stopped at 5100m at 5:00 am to wait 1 hour for sunrise; then saw 3 possible lines but too dry and one only very thin ice so back to BC and Namche same day to climb Namche Icefall, which Gonzalez and Mateo climbed to top while Vidal filmed them.


expid: MUKT67301
peakid: MUKT
year: 1967
route1: W Ridge-NW Face
nation: Netherlands
leaders: J. A. Noordijk
sponsor: Netherlands Himalayan Expedition 1967
ascent1: 1st
approach: From Barbung Khola
smtdate: 1967-11-11
campsites: BC,C1,C2,Smt(11/11)
routememo:
  Most likely this team climbed Langru (Mukut Himal).


  From F. C. Dufour - 12 July 2020 (by email)

  Mukot Himal (6087m) on the Leomann maps (Sheet 3) was ascended for the first time by Fons Driessen, Michiel van Mourik Broekman with the Sherpas Phu Dhorji and Tenzing Gyaltso from the east on the 11 November 1967.


expid: AMAD06101
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Jay Reilly
sponsor: SummitClimb Ama Dablam Expedition 2006
countries: Ireland, UK, USA
bcdate: 2006-05-07
smtdate: 2006-05-13
termdate: 2006-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(07/05,4600m),C1(12/05,5400m),C1(13/05,5800m),xxx(13/05,5800m)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  High point at C1.

  13 May storm came up and got to C1 in blizzard which dumped 1/2-meter or more on the route. Down to BC 14 May as planned. Reports of bad weather on 18th and 19th and huge thunderstorm on 18th dumped 1 meter snow and brought very strong winds "that ruined the route for us" because route is a technical rock route. 19th snowed again and in morning of 20th so team decided to quit. 

  On 16th Stuckey left BC to go in quick ascent with Sherpa but had to turn back at 5700m because of storm and back to BC same day and left team 18th.


expid: AMAD06102
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Volker Tiller
sponsor: Deutsch Ama Dablam
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2006-04-20
smtdate: 2006-05-04
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2006-05-07
campsites: BC(20/04,4650m),C1(22/04,5760m),C3(03/05,6350m),Smt(04/05)
agency: Multi Adventure
routememo:
  Team left C3 at 9:20 am. Weather started off nicely but clouded over at 12:00. When they arrived on the summit it was cloudy, no views. They summited together with Dieter Ruelker of Rieck's expedition. They descended after 1 hour on the summit and descended to C3 where they arrived at 6 pm. All in all, conditions Ok but too much snow.


expid: AMAD06103
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Olaf Rieck
sponsor: Deutsch Ama Dablam
approach: Lobuche->Everest BC->Pangboche
bcdate: 2006-04-15
smtdate: 2006-05-04
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2006-05-07
campsites: BC(15/04,4650m),C1(20/04,5760m),C2(02/05,6350m),Smt(04/05)
agency: Multi Adventure
routememo:
  Rieck and Lhakpa Gelu left C3 at 7:30 am; Ruelker left with 2 other Germans from a different expedition (Tiller & Otto) at 9:20 am. Rieck and Lhakpa Gelu waited for Ruelker on summit for one hour and descended at 3:30 pm, after having spent 30 minutes with Ruelker on top. Weather was cloudy but Rieck and Lakpa Gelu still got some views of Everest. The summit team descended to C3 and arrived there at 4 pm (Rieck and Lhakpa) and at 6 pm (Ruelker). Conditions on the mountain were difficult due to too much snow. Rieck and Lakpa fixed the rope from C2 to C3 with Ongcho Sherpa of a Swiss Expedition (Anzan Truffler). On summit day Rieck and Lhakpa fixed rope from C3 to summit.

  Anzan Truffler's expedition, which decided to turn back, left rope-fixing material for Rieck's team as Rieck's material would not have been enough.

  Krueger arrived at C1 on 2 May. She stayed there (alone) for two nights to wait for summit team to come down. She descended to BC on 4 May and abandoned the climb due to too much difficulty.

  Brummer ascended to C1 on 25 April and descended to BC on 27 April. He abandoned climb due to too much difficulty and left BC on 28 April.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Gelu, 13/4/73, Thumduk, Beni-3, Everest 18/5/04


expid: AMAD06104
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Olaf Zill
sponsor: Ama Dablam 2006
countries: Switzerland
approach: Pheriche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2006-04-28
smtdate: 2006-05-07
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2006-05-11
campsites: BC(28/04,4240m),ABC(30/04,5400m),C1(01/05,5700m),C2(06/05,6000m),Smt(07/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Zill and Beltrame left C2 at 5:30 am on 7 May. In the morning it was clear, but it clouded over about 10 am. The only views from the top were towards the south-southwest, otherwise it was cloudy. Windy on top after summiting they went back to C2, where they spent the night. They descended to BC the next day.

  Overall conditions of the mountain were difficult. Very icy and a lot of soft snow.


expid: AMAD06105
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Michael Nellen
sponsor: Swiss Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Pangboche
bcdate: 2006-05-06
smtdate: 2006-05-16
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2006-05-17
campsites: BC(06/05,4580m),ABC(07/05,5200m),C1(08/05,5750m),C2(13/05,6000m),C3(15/05,6250m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Iceland Trekking (Dorje)
routememo:
  Nellen and Schmid left C3 at 04:00 hours on 16th. Nellen reached summit at 08:00 hours, waited for Schmid who arrived at 10:00 hours, stayed 15/20 minutes longer, then descended to BC at 21:00 hours. Weather was very good. Clouds started forming after 10:00 hours, no wind.

  There were not any other climbers on the mountain on that day. One day later an Irish woman and another person summited Ama Dablam. 

  The Nellen team returned to Kathmandu on May 21 and will leave on 23rd.


expid: AMAD06106
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Ireland
leaders: Clare O'Leary
sponsor: An Irish woman on Ama Dablam
approach: By helicopter to Namche->Pangboche->Gorakshep->EvBC
bcdate: 2006-05-05
smtdate: 2006-05-17
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2006-05-19
othersmts: Climbed Pokhalde
campsites: BC(05/05,4650m),C1(07/05,5700m),C2(15/05,6000m),C3(16/05,6280m),Smt(17/05)
agency: High Country Trekking
routememo:
  Approach: Helicopter to Namche, Deboche, Pangboche, Pheriche, Lobuche, Gorak Shep, EvBC, Gorak Shep, Pokhalde (summit), Pangboche.

  O'Leary, Nima Sherpa and Wangchu Sherpa left C3 on 17 at 06:00 hours, reached to summit at 11:00 hours, stayed on summit about 30 minutes, descended to C3 about 14:00 hours. Good weather conditions at the beginning of climbing. Around 10:30 hours started snow falling. Swiss Expedition member Volken and Imstepf and a Sherpa were ahead of O'Leary on summit. 

  She returned to Kathmandu on May 21 and will leave on 24th.

  Sherpas:
    Nima Sherpa, 2/12/72, Kharikhola, Cho Oyu X4
    Wangchu Sherpa, 36 years old, Pawai-1, Solu


expid: AMAD06107
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Aldo Leviti
sponsor: Ama Dablam 2006
bcdate: 2006-05-01
smtdate: 2006-05-11
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2006-05-12
campsites: BC(01/05,4500m),C1(05/05,5700m),C2(10/05,6900m),Smt(11/05)
accidents: Nothing except headache one evening
agency: Amuse Treks
routememo:
  Leviti 6 May up to C2 at 6900m and down to BC; now that evening got slight headache. 9 May up to C1. 10 May to C2 and slept there. 11 May up to top; left C2 at 2:00 am, on top about 9:30 am and down to C2; BC 12th and on down to Pangboche.

  A little difficult at last part just below C2, was very steep and little overhanging and again just above C2 mixed snow and ice and here difficult.


expid: AMAD06108
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Dmitri Moskalev
sponsor: Ama Dablam MAI 2006
bcdate: 2006-05-01
smtdate: 2006-05-10
termdate: 2006-05-12
termnote: Abandoned at 6650m due to strong wind and being tired
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
campsites:
  PangbocheBC(01/05,3960m),ABC(03/05,5400m),C1(05/05,5800m),C2(09/05,6000m),C3(10/05,6300m),xxx(10/05,6650m)

routememo:
  ABC all members O/N
  C1  all members O/N

  10 May started from C2 at 8:30 am, reached C3 at 11:00, took rest about two and half hours. At 13:30 started from C3 to the summit. Kolokolkin didn't leave C3 due to lack of technical experience.

  4 members reached high point at 6650m at 21:00, stayed for 30 minutes and decided to go down due to strong wind, also very tired. They went down to C3 23:00 hours, stayed there till 06:00 and came to C2, reached at 08:00, stayed for 3 hours and went down to ABC at 17:00.

  11 May they met Italian of 56 years old who reached summit that day.


expid: AMAD06109
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Fabio Meraldi
sponsor: Un Songnare Longo 3 Cime (Ama Dablam, Pumori, Lhotse)
approach: Lukla->Pangboche
bcdate: 2006-04-25
smtdate: 2006-05-05
smttime: 1020
termdate: 2006-05-07
othersmts: Attempted Pumori (PUMO-061-04); climbed Lhotse (LHOT-061-01)
campsites: BC(25/04,4500m),Smt(05/05)
achievment: 16 hours BC->summit->BC
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  The team started from BC at 12:30 am. They got to C1 at 3 am, C2 at 5 am, C3 at 7:30 am. They arrived at the summit at 10:20 am. They had no views on the summit as the weather closed in. They descended to BC, where they arrived at 4:30 pm.

  They used the ropes fixed by the Sherpas of Rieck's and Truffer's expedition.


expid: AMAD06110
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Anjan Truffer
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Ama Dablam and Cho Oyu Expedition 2006
countries: Chile
approach: Lukla->Namche->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-21
smtdate: 2006-04-27
termdate: 2006-05-03
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to too little time
othersmts: Climbed Cho Oyu (CHOY-061-21)
campsites: BC(21/04,4600m),C1(24/04,5700m),xxx(27/04,5900m)
agency: Iceland Trekking (Dorje)
routememo:
  Truffer, Wongchu and Lhakpa climbed to C2 on 27 April to deposit gear and tents. The conditions were difficult, too much snow. They descended to C1, where they arrived at 5 pm where they stayed one night on 26 April. The team decided to abandon climb as they wanted to go to Cho Oyu. The conditions were so difficult that Sherpas took 6 days to fix rope from C1 to C3. They shared the work with Olaf Rieck's team, which was also on mountain rope fixing.

  Team left BC on 2 May by helicopter to Kathmandu. They stayed for 2 nights in Kathmandu before they left for Cho Oyu.


expid: AMAD06111
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Kilian Volken
sponsor: Independent team on Ama Dablam
approach: Namche->Gokyo->Gokyo Ri->Tagnac->Chola->Tengboche
bcdate: 2006-05-10
smtdate: 2006-05-17
smttime: 1015
termdate: 2006-05-19
campsites: BC(10/05,4600m),C1(12/05,5800m),C2(16/05,6000m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Multi Adventure
routememo:
  Imstepf, Kimmig, Volken and Lhakpa Gelu started from C2 at 04:00 hours on May 17, summitted at 10:15 hours. Stayed on summit for one hour,then descended to C2 at 14:00 hours. Next day to BC. Excellent weather. There was snowfall beyond C2. Rest of time the weather was very good. 

  After this team one Irish woman, 2 Sherpas summited on that day. Two Swiss summited on 16th.

  Kimmig nearly reached up to 6700m had turn around due to flu/fever, too slow, decided to give up.

  Clear view from the summit at the beginning. Midday started forming clouds. Australian team was the only team at BC. The Australian team may try for summit. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on April 21 and will leave on 26th.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Gelu, 13/4/77, Thumduk, Beni-3, Everest 18/5/04, 
      Ama Dablam 4 May with Rieck


expid: AMAD06112
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Thomas Forestieri
sponsor: American Team on Cho Oyu
approach: Lukla->Pangboche
bcdate: 2006-04-24
smtdate: 2006-05-04
smttime: 1430
campsites: BC(24/04,9600m),ABC(16/04,5000m),C1(27/04,5800m),C2(01/05,6000m),C3(02/05,6300m),Smt(04/05)
agency: Kohinoor Adventure
routememo:
  Summit team left C3 at 6:30 am. They were followed shortly by three Germans of Olaf Riecks's expedition. Weather started off nice and clear but clouds started to move in at about 11 am. It was very cloudy when they got to the summit. After summiting they descended to C3 where they arrived at 4 pm.

  Zeigler got to C3 on 2 May. He stayed the night but felt very exhausted. The next day and descended to BC.


expid: AMAD06113
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: John Van Nostrand
sponsor: Bold Boys Incorporated Ama Dablam Expedition 2006
approach: Lukla on 21 April
bcdate: 2006-04-27
smtdate: 2006-05-02
termdate: 2006-05-05
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to route difficulty and lack of campsite
campsites: BC(27/04,4600m),C1(01/05,5400m),xxx(02/05,5900m)
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  High point at Mushroom Ridge.

  Information provided by Lhakpa Nuri:

  Both members slept in C1 on 1 May with plan to summit on 8 May after making C2 and C3 but on 2 May they did not get to C2. Parry got bad headache from altitude and turned back at 5700m or more; Van Nostrand got up to the Mushroom Ridge at 5900m, but it is quite technical, no place to camp there and had no waterproof sleeping bag with him, so he also return to C1 for the night. They returned to BC on 3 May and left on 5 May. 

  Parry flew Lukla/KTM on 11 May and left Nepal 14 May; Van Nostrand returned to Kathmandu 13 May and left Nepal 17 or 18 May (stayed at friend's home on return).


  Jay Parry (by telephone) - 3 Oct 2006

  Jay went to planned C2 campsite (5800m) and then turned back because he did not plan to stay there and had no sleeping gear. John also went to C2 site or slightly higher and turned back due to lack of waterproof sleeping bag (there were adequate camping spots). Jay and John went up independent of each other.

  The team did not take fixed ropes and the ropes in place were damaged and frayed.

  Jay would like to return sometime to finish the job.


expid: ANN106101
peakid: ANN1
year: 2006
route1: N Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Romano Benet
sponsor: Dhaulagiri I Annapurna I 2006
approach: From Dhaulagiri BC by helicopter
bcdate: 2006-05-19
smtdate: 2006-05-25
termdate: 2006-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to bad weather
othersmts: Climbed Dhaulagiri I (DHA1-061-03)
campsites: BC(19/05,4200m),Biv1(23/05,5000m),Biv2(24/05,5750m),xxx(25/05,6000m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Biv 1 on North Face
  Biv 2 on North Face
  High point at bottom of small couloir.

  Benet, Meroi and Vuerich to Annapurna BC on 19 May and climbed in alpine style with only bivouacs above: 1st at 5000m on 23rd and 2nd biv at 5750m on 24th May; 25th May started at 3:00 am because dangerous from falling seracs from 7000m; stopped ascent at 6000m, where huge seracs broke off at 7000m and its ice just missed them but snow hit them, doing no damage but legs shaking at 6:00 am so down t BC 11:00 am. Climb now finished with rain at BC and snowing high.


expid: ANN106102
peakid: ANN1
year: 2006
route1: N Face
nation: Kazakhstan
leaders: Maxut Zhumayev
sponsor: Kazakhstani Dhaulagiri I & Annapurna I Expedition 2006
ascent1: 44th
approach: From Dhaulagiri I via Marpha
bcdate: 2006-05-13
smtdate: 2006-05-19
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2006-05-22
othersmts: Climbed Dhaulagiri I (DHA1-061-05)
campsites: BC(13/05,4150m),C1(15/05,5030m),C2(16/05,5670m),C3(17/05,6650m),C4(18/05,7300m),Smt(19/05)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C2 on snow plateau
  C3 under last serac
  C4 on snow plateau above the sickle.

  No avalanching on this team's route while they was there. In summit push joined East Ridge at 8030m on small col and followed ridge to top in good weather. Left C4 at 6:00 am and on top at 1:30-2:00 pm and to C4 at 4:00-5:00 pm. 20th to BC. 

  Route not difficult. Winds from C3 to C4, but no wind C4 to top.


expid: ANN106103
peakid: ANN1
year: 2006
route1: S Face of Glacier Dome-E Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Piotr Pustelnik
sponsor: Himalayan Trilogy to Cho Oyu, Annapurna I & Broad Peak
ascent1: 45th
countries: Slovakia, USA
bcdate: 2006-05-06
smtdate: 2006-05-21
smttime: 2045
termdate: 2006-05-26
othersmts: Climbed Annapurna East (ANNE-061-01), Annapurna Middle (ANNM-061-01) and Cho Oyu (CHOY-061-28)
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(06/05,4130m),ABC(14/05,5400m),C1(16/05,6100m),C2(19/05,7000m),Biv1(19/05,7460m),Biv2(20/05,7300m),Smt(21/05)

routememo:
  BC  at south end of South Annapurna Glacier
  ABC on western slope of Tent Peak-Glacier Dome ridge
  C1  on western slope 
  C2  on western slope
  Biv 1 on East Ridge
  Biv 2 on East Ridge.

  Difficult to final route to East Ridge because slopes broken up and steep; slopes were under ridge connecting Tent Peak, Fluted Peak and Glacier Dome. Reached Annapurna East Ridge east of Glacier Dome, west of Roc Noir on 18 May. Bowie to BC 15th with flu; he was very useful then keeping things intact when 1 Tibetan Sherpa came down to get food for Lhotse. 1st biv on 19 May on ridge at 7460m by Hamor, Morawski and Pustelnik accompanied by Lhotse; 2nd biv on 20 May at 7300m on ridge. 21 May went for summit, but Lhotse climbing with them, got stuck at col between East and Central Summit. Ridge very difficult and found route at 4:00 pm, having left biv at 7:00 am, route by ramp down 100m on North Face of slope of Central Summit to 7900m and looked for biv site but wasn't any. Now it became clear that Lhotse had become partially snowblind, dehydrated, didn't have headlamp and so Pustelnik and Morawski returned to BC with him, having difficult time helping him and reached 2nd biv site at 5:00 am of 22nd. Meanwhile Homar went on to rejoin East Ridge and got to Central summit at 6:30 pm and Main Summit at 8:45 pm and down to make a biv at or between Central and Main Summit at 10:00 pm. 22nd to 7300m biv where found other members and Lhotse. 23rd Hamor down to C2 alone because Lhotse unable to go till 24th; all very weak without food 4-5 days but had to descend and reached C2 with great difficulty and exhausted.


expid: ANN106104
peakid: ANN1
year: 2006
route1: S Face of Glacier Dome-E Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Lodue (Lhotse)
sponsor: Chinese Annapurna Expedition 2006
ascent1: 46th
bcdate: 2006-05-06
smtdate: 2006-06-04
smttime: 1120
termdate: 2006-06-07
othersmts: Climbed Annapurna East (ANNE-061-01)
campsites: BC(06/05,4130m),ABC(14/05,5400m),C1(16/05,6100m),C2(17/05,7000m),Smt(04/06)
accidents: Lhotse snowblindness
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Details of climb:

  Lhotse, Pemba Tashi and Dawa Sherpa - 11 June 2006

  During their first summit bid, both members and Dawa moved with the team led by Piotr Pustelnik (Polish), and they camped at the same places on the same dates as his team from base camp on 6 May to C2 on 17 May. On 19 May, Pemab Tashi and Dawa descended to base camp because their team's food supply was not sufficient for all three of them to continue the climb; Pustelnik had told them to bring food for only seven days. This gave Lhotse enough to continue his summit attempt.

  Lhotse continued with Pustelnik's team to their first bivouac at 7460m on 19 May and on 20 May to second bivouac at 7300m. On 21 May at 6:00 am he left with them for the summit and reached the East Summit at 7:00 pm without food, sleeping bag or Sherpa. He therefore was forced to turn back. He spent all night returning to the bivouac at 7300m, which he reached at 5:00 am on 22 May with Pustelnik and Morawaski.

  After sleeping at 7300m, Lhotse found he was snowblind from the difficult climb back from the East Summit. He rested/slept in the bivouac for two days, and then on 24 May started down; he met Dawa, who was coming up with food, between 7300m and C2 at 7000m and they descended together to C2.

  Pemba Tashi had gone up to C1 at 6100m on 24 May. On 25 May all three, Lhotse, Pemba Tashi and Dawa, returned to base camp to rest.

  In their second summit all three went up to C1 on 1 June, to C2 at 7000m on 2 June, and on 3 June to the second bivouac at 7300m, skipping the first bivouac at 7460m.

  On 4 June all three went for the summit. They left 7300m at 2:00 am on the 4th and were on the Main Summit at 11:20 am in windy and cloudy weather. They saw nothing at the top, but Lhotse is certain they were at the Main Summit because he had seen it when he was at the East Summit with Pustelnik. They returned to C2 at 7000m at 9:00 pm, and back safely to C1 at 6100m on 5 June.

  They had one oxygen bottle with their team, and Lhotse used oxygen from it from 7300m to the East Summit in his first summit bid. His oxygen delivery system was broken at the East Summit, and in his descent from there and during the rest of his climb, he had none.


  Bowie to BC 15th with flu; was very useful keeping things intact when 1 Tibetan Sherpa came down to get food for Lhotse. 1st biv on 19 May on ridge at 7460m by Hamar, Morawski and Pustelnik accompanied by Lhotse; 2nd biv on 20 May at 7300m on ridge. 21 May went for summit,  but Lhotse, climbing wth them, got stuck at col between East and Central Summits. Ridge very difficult and found route at 4:00 pm, having left biv at 7:00 am, route by ramp down 100m on North Face of slopes of Central Summit to 7900m and looked for biv site but wasn't any; now it became clear that Lhotse had become partially snowblind, dehydrated, didn't have headlamp and so Pustelnik and Morawski returned to BC with him, having difficult time helping him and reached 2nd biv site at 5:00 am of 22nd. Meanwhile Homor went on to rejoin East Ridge and got to Central Summit at 6:30 pm and Main Summit at 8:45 pm and down to make a biv at or between Central and Main Summit at 10:00 pm. 22nd to 7300m biv where found other members and Lhotse. 23rd Homar down to C2 alone because Lhotse unable to go till 24th; all very weak without food 4-5 days but had to descend and reached C2 without difficulty and exhausted.


  * Dawa Sherpa - he says has no middle name, was born on 27/2/71 and comes from Tanku village, near Phaplu, Salleri VDC, Solu; he summited Cho Oyu with Spaniards in 2001 (but no Spanish team said he was on top with them) and on Everest with Iranians (Iranian leader gave his age as 37, but trekking agency, Thamserku said DOB 19/6/60, came from Mera village, Kanku-9, near Pangkoma, Jubing VDC, Solu). Ministry of Tourism did not list him as a summiter in 2005, but leader added his name to Ministry of Tourism list.


expid: CHOY06131
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Marco Roos
sponsor: Loon Saleris Software Himalaya Expedition 2006 to Cho Oyu
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-05-15
smtdate: 2006-05-24
smttime: 0815
termdate: 2006-05-28
campsites: BC(15/05,4700m),ABC(18/05,5700m),C1(22/05,6400m),C2(23/05,7100m),Smt(24-25/06)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  24 May summit team left C3 at 11 pm Nepali time on 23 May. Weather was clear and calm but cold. Roos and Dawa Sherpa were with them but Roos got very cold feet and the two turned around at about 7600m. Scheeper and Nima Gombu spent about 15 minutes on summit and there was good view of Everest. They descended to C2, where they arrived 1 pm Nepali time. 

  25 May summit team left C2 at 11 pm on 24 May. Weather was clear and there was good view of Everest. They descended to C2, where they arrived at 2 pm Nepali time.

  Bakker and Reij got to C1 on 19 May. They did not stay the night; both developed a stomach problem at ABC and did not ascend again.

  Roodenburg got to C2 on 23 May. He and Van Hal and Pema went for the summit the same night but turned back at 7200m as Roodenberg felt too tired. They descended to C2. Roodenberg descended to C2 with Roos on 24 May.

  Snuders got to C1 on 19 May, but did not stay the night after this he did not go up again as he could not sleep properly and felt weak and exhausted.

  Sherpas:
    Pema Tharki, 19/05/61, Beding, Cho Oyu 28/9/05
    Dawa Gelu, Sedua
    Nima Gombu, Beding


expid: CHOY06101
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Inigo Loyola
sponsor: Spanish Cho Oyu Team
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-12
smtdate: 2006-05-04
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2006-05-07
campsites: BC(12/04,4900m),ABC(14/04,5700m),C1(20/04,6400m),C2(22/04,7200m),Smt(04/05)
accidents: Loyola got slight frostbite on 4 toes (noticed his frostbite at ABC on 5 May)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Team left C2 at 2:30 am Nepali time. Insausti and Mendizabal got to 7400m and turned back as it was too cold (-20 degrees). Loyola carried on on his own and reached the summit at 10 am. The views were good and he saw Everest. He returned to C2 where he arrived at 1 pm. Insausti was still at C2, and Mendizabal had descended to BC the same day. Loyola and Insausti descended to ABC the next day.

  Loyola noticed his frostbite at ABC on 5 May. However, the doctors at CIWEC Clinic told him that he would keep his toes. He also got medical help from the doctor of the Indian Army expedition at ABC.


expid: CHOY06102
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Austria
leaders: Peter Widhalm
sponsor: Dream Team Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: By helicopter to Tatopani->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-15
smtdate: 2006-05-08
smttime: 1345
termdate: 2006-05-11
campsites: BC(15/04,4900m),ABC(21/04,5700m),C1(25/04,6400m),C2(30/04,7080m),C3(01/05,7520m),Smt(08/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at CBC/IC on 20 May at 5300m
  ABC at usual campsite
  C1  at usual campsite
  C2  at usual campsite
  C3  at usual campsite.

  Widhalm left C3 at 06:30 NST on May 8, reached to summit at 13:45 hours, stayed on summit about 10 minutes, returned to C2 at 16:30 hours. Next day to ABC. During the climb weather was cloudy and for about two hours it was windy. Summit was calm and clear but far surrounding was cloudy,  could not see Everest. On the summit he saw piles of prayer flags, some bamboo poles, oxygen cylinders. Widhalm met two climbers (Basque) and before him were to Koreans with two Sherpas.

  Widhalm returned to Kathmandu on May 12 and his flight is booked for May 22. If possible he will try to leave early.


expid: CHOY06103
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Tashi Tenzing
sponsor: Jagged Globe Cho Oyu Expedition 2006
countries: Australia, Czech Republic, Norway
bcdate: 2006-04-16
smtdate: 2006-05-09
smttime: 0720
termdate: 2006-05-13
campsites: BC(16/04,4900m),ABC(22/04,5700m),C1(27/04,6450m),C2(07/05,7090m),C3(08/05,7300m),Smt(09/05)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  Left C3 at 2:00 am NST: Doble, Fry, Polackova, Tenzing, Dawa Gyalzen and Pemba; at 10:55 am Tenzing told Doble he must turn back because of his rate of climbing and Pemba went back with him to C3, arrived there at 5 pm, delayed by getting lost in blizzard above yellow band. Rest of summit team went on to top: Fry 7:20 am, Dawa Sherpa 7:35 am, Tashi Tenzing and Polackova 9:30 am; had "fantastic" view as far as Kangchenjunga. Went to C2 at 5:00 pm, Fry 6:00 pm waited for Dawa Gyalzen to return from looing for Doble who with Pemba had strayed too far to the west (blizzard stopped in afternoon). 

  Dickson went to 6700m only; 
  Morse also only to 6700m; 
  Rowland reached C2 only;

  Doble and Pemba reached 8000m at 10:55 am and then Tashi Tenzing told Doble he must go down because now too late for him to summit safely; he and Pemba reached C3 at 5:00 pm and slept there.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Gelji, 18/4/75, Chankhu-4, Cho Oyu X1
    Pema, 28/8/73, Pathibhara, Makalu, no 8000ers


expid: CHOY06104
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Norway
leaders: Ivar Hoel
sponsor: Norwegian Cho Oyu Spring 2006
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-07
smtdate: 2006-05-09
termdate: 2006-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(07/04,4900m),ABC(12/04,5700m),C1(23/04,6414m),C2(08/05,7100m),xxx(09/05,7400m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 11 April at 5300m at Deposit Camp between ABC
  C1 on April 17 at 6000m.

  Hoel and Dag Lovhaug tried to put up C3. On May 9 and left C2 at 01:00 hours (NST), but the snow conditions were bad, so they could not walk properly. There was no balance in their steps. When they reached 7400m, both Hoel and Lovhaug were so exhausted and snow started falling, thus both of them turned around to C2. 

  High point for Flock was C2 (7100m) on May 3; he did not try to continue climbing due to exhaustion. Olav Lovhaug reached up to 6900m; at this point he felt breathing problem so he gave up. 

  The team's experience is that they spent more time carrying load in bad weather conditions which exhausted them and no more energy to carry on the climb. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on May 14 and will leave the country on May 22; in between they may go to Pokhara/rafting and so on.


expid: CHOY06105
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Austria
leaders: Paul Guertler
sponsor: Tashi Delek Solo to Cho Oyu
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-15
smtdate: 2006-05-03
termdate: 2006-05-12
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to cold hands & feet at both times
campsites: BC(15/04,4900m),ABC(21/04,5714m),C1(24/04,6411m),C2(27/04,7000m),xxx(03/05,7500m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Guertler tried to summit twice but failed twice as he was suffering from cold hands and feet. Both days (3 May & 9 May), he left C2 at 2 am and turned back at about 5:30 am Nepali time. Both times he descended back to ABC.


expid: CHOY06106
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Austria
leaders: Rudolf Mayr
sponsor: Independent team on Cho Oyi
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-05-11
smtdate: 2006-05-15
termdate: 2006-05-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to sickness by Mayr
campsites: BC(11/05,4900m),ABC(13/05,5700m),C1(15/06,6300m),xxx(15/05,6300m)
agency: Iceland Trekking (Tendi)
routememo:
  Mayr did not feel well at C1. He felt sick (upset stomach). Both climbers decided to abandon the climb. They did not want to spend any more time on the mountain.

  Hired:
    Santa Bahadur Gurung, 23/4/59, Sunwara, Gorkha, Manaslu 19/9/97
    Ang Pasang, 22/6/79, Khinjiphalte, Okhaldhunga-5, no 8000ers


expid: CHOY06107
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Albert Kirschner
sponsor: DAV Summit Club Cho Oyu Expedition
countries: Austria
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-17
smtdate: 2006-05-09
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2006-05-14
campsites: BC(17/04,4700m),ABC(21/04,5660m),C1(26/04,6300m),C2(01/05,7000m),C3(08/05,7400m),Smt(09/05)
accidents: Cerebral edema Karma Dhoj; Spang slipped at 7800m at 1 pm and fell down to 7400m (fatal fall)
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  Summit team left C3 at 3 am Nepali time. On top at 11 am. Conditions were good, clear skies, good views of Everest. They spent 20 minutes on summit. During their descent Spang slipped 20 minutes on summit on a hard piece of ice at at 7800m. He was walking behind Kirschner during a traverse. Kirschner saw him slide down but lost sight of him after 30m as Spang slid over an ice step. Kirschner immediately followed the sliding traces in the snow to the yellow band but could not see him. He returned to normal route and descended to C3 where he arrived at 2 pm. The other summit team members descended slowly and arrived at C3 at 4 pm. Kirschner saw Spang lying in the snow about 200m from C3 at same altitude. Kirschner went over to Spang on his own but Spang was already dead. He must have hit his head on a rock on the yellow band as part of his brain had leaked out. He immediately rang DAV Summit Club to inform them. He went back to C3 and after another call to DAV summit club they decided to put the body in a crevasse.

  Kirschner and Palden Sherpa went back to Spang's body the next morning (10 May), dragged him down for about 100m and put him into a crevasse. They packed up C3 and descended to C1. Ninke and Fort and left earlier (8:30 am) and Kirschner and Palden left C3 at 10 am. The summit team met up again at C2 and descended together to C1, where they stayed the night. They descended to ABC the next day. Kirschner's family has now said they want the body recovered. 

  Schmidt climbed to 7800m on 6 May with Pasang Sherpa. According to Schmidt they turned back at 10 am. However, Pasang Sherpa said they turned back at 2 pm. The reason for turning back was that it was getting too late. They spent the night at C3.

  Rademacher only got to C1 on 6 May but abandoned the climb due to bronchitis.
  Stollbert got to C2 on 1 May but abandoned the climb as it was too difficult for him.

  On 26 April Karma Dhoj Tamang developed cerebral edema at ABC. Kirschner was at C1 but Tashi Tenzing (grandson of Tenzing Norgay) gave oxygen to Karma Dhoj Tamang. The patient descended to Tingri for a few nights but returned to ABC on 30 April. He remained there for the rest of the expedition and was well.

  Kirschner said that he did not think that Spang had anti-Ball plates on his crampons which could be a reason why he slipped. He was not carrying an ice axe.


expid: CHOY06108
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Austria
leaders: Walter Zoerer
sponsor: Globetrek Cho Oyu 2006
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-22
smtdate: 2006-05-13
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2006-05-18
campsites: BC(22/04,4900m),ABC(24/04,5650m),C1(28/04,6350m),C2(02/05,7000m),C3(12/05,7400m),Smt(13/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Summit team left C3 at 3 am Nepali time. Weather started off very clear, but it clouded over later. When they arrived on the summit it was pretty cloudy; no views but they saw prayer flags. They spent about 15 minutes on the summit. They descended to C3, where they arrived at 7 pm.They descended to ABC on 14 May.

  Steger got as far as C1 on 29 April. He descended to ABC the same day and left on the following day. Zoerer thinks he felt overwhelmed by the mountain. He had been twice on Cho Oyu before but never got very high.


expid: CHOY06109
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Austria
leaders: Herbert Wolf
sponsor: Amical Alpin Cho Oyu Expedition 2006
countries: Germany, Italy
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-15
smtdate: 2006-05-10
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2006-05-15
campsites: BC(15/04,4900m),ABC(21/04,5714m),C1(27/04,6411m),C2(02/05,7000m),C3(09/05,7400m),Smt(10/05)
accidents: None
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Goldeband, Moennig, Rabbia, Wolf and Chuldim left C3 at 4:45 am Nepali Time. It was cloudy in the morning, cleared a little bit at sunrise, but clouded over again. Very little wind. Rabbia and Chuldim reached the summit first. Moennig who was with Wolf turned back at 7500m just below the Yellow Band due to cold hands. Wolf and Goldeband met Chuldim and Rabbia on their way up and Chuldim joined Wolf and Goldeband to summit 2nd time that day. After summiting they descended to C3, where they arrived between 5 pm and 6 pm. Moennig descended to C2.

  Herzer got to about 6700m on 2 May but abandoned climb due to weakness. 
  Kast got as far as C1 on 1 May but abandoned climb due to exhaustion. 
  Herzer and Kast left ABC on 3 May to return to Kathmandu.

  Sherpa:
    Chuldim Sherpa, 10/9/71, Khumjung, works regularly for Amical


expid: CHOY06110
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Alessandro Colleoni
sponsor: Italian team on Cho Oyu
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-15
smtdate: 2006-05-09
smttime: 0900
campsites: BC(15/04,4900m),ABC(20/04,5680m),C1(25/04,6400m),C2(07/05,7100m),C3(08/05,7400m),Smt(09/05)
accidents: None
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Colleoni and Dawa Sherpa left C3 at 3:15 am Nepali time. The weather was clear and not windy. They spent about 30 minutes on the summit. Good views of Everest. After the summit they descended to C2, where they arrived at 4 pm Nepali time.

  Capelli got to 6900m where she and Colleoni put up a camp on 1 May (just above the ice wall on the plateau). They both spent the night there and descended to C1 the next day and to BC on 3 May. Capelli did not go back up after this as she felt too weak. She stayed at BC and waited for Colleoni.


expid: CHOY06111
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Stephan Andres
sponsor: Vinschgar Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-15
smtdate: 2006-05-09
smttime: 1040
termdate: 2006-05-15
campsites: BC(15/04,9900m),ABC(20/04,5680m),C1(28/04,6400m),C2(07/05,7100m),C3(08/05,7400m),Smt(09/05)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Andres left C3 at 3:30 am together with Ernst and Rudolf Alber. Rudolf turned back at 7500m at 5 am Nepali time due to cold feet and hands. Ernst turned back at 7800m (just above yellow band) due to fatigue at 8 am Nepali time. Andres carried on and arrived at summit at 10:40 am Nepali time. Good views of Everest, not windy. He descended to C3 where Ernst and Rudolf Alber waited for him. From there all three descended to C2, where they arrived at 5 pm.

  Schweizer got to C1 (6400m) on 6 May. He did not carry on due to weakness and he did not think he was fit enough. He waited at C1 until 10 May when his team members came down from C2.

  Blaas got to C1 on 28 April. When he got back to BC the next day he felt very sick with stomach problems, fever and a bad back. He left BC on 3 May to return back home.


expid: CHOY06112
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Josu Ortubay Fuentes
sponsor: Basque Cho Oyu Expedition 2006
approach: By helicopter to Tatopani->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-15
smtdate: 2006-05-08
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2006-05-11
campsites: BC(15/04,4900m),C1(21/04,5700m),C1(22/04,6430m),C2(26/04,7100m),C3(01/05,7450m),Smt(08/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at CBC/IC on 17 Apr at 5835m
  ABC at usual campsite.

  Ortubay Fuentes and Zaita Rubio left C3 at 06:00 hours (NST). Ortubay Fuentes reached summit at 13:00 hours. Stayed on summit for only 3/4 minutes as he was afraid of becoming snowblinded as the sunglasses he used were not protecting his eyes from the constant wind and he was tired. Reached C3 at 16:00 hours; down to C2 at 18:00 hours. Ortubay Fuentes met one Korean and a Sherpa descending below the rock band and after a while another Korean with Sherpa descending. Behind Ortubay Fuentes was Widhalm coming up for summit. It was blue sky all the time but windy, between the surrounding cloud he saw the Everest. Cho Oyu summit was clear. But there was clouds around the summit. 

  Zaita Rubio turned around from 8040m saying that was his limit; he had heart attack 10 years ago. It was difficult for Zaita Rubio to concentrate in his climbing due to his ten-year-old heart attack. His mind was all the thinking of the heart attack and turned around to C3.


expid: CHOY06113
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Argentina
leaders: Fernando Rampezzotti
sponsor: Argentinean Cho Oyu Team
bcdate: 2006-04-10
smtdate: 2006-04-29
termdate: 2006-05-02
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to both members' illnesses
campsites: BC(10/04,4900m),ABC(12/04,5700m),C1(16/04,6000m),C2(27/04,7100m),xxx(29/04,7400m)
accidents: Both member's altitude sickness
agency: Himalayan World Wide Treks
routememo:
  BC at road 
  High point at 7400m before 1st traverse.

  16th Rampezzotti reached C1 then found he had slight case of pulmonary edema so he and Mingmar Tamang down to ABC and Fernando to ABC on 17th as per plan. 20th April Rampezzotti got sicker but storm of wind and snow prevented him leaving mountain till 20th, when he went to middle camp 21st to BC and 22nd to Zangmu, stayed there till 25th because no transport on Nepalese side because of political turmoil. 

  21st Rodriguez to C1 with Mingma Tamang. 22nd they to C2 site at 7100m to deposit gear and slept in C1. 23rd to ABC to rest. 26th to C1. 27th to C2. 29th started for top without any C3; left C2 at 3:00 am NST but Rodriguez started vomiting and strong wind up, so down from 7400m at 7:00 am and reached ABC 8:00 pm after resting 4 hours in C1, recovering his health. 20th May Yaks arrived and down to BC and Nyalam and 3rd to Kathmandu.


expid: CHOY06114
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Canada
leaders: Andrew McKinlay
sponsor: McKinlay Cho Oyu Expedition 2006
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-15
smtdate: 2006-05-07
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2006-05-11
campsites: BC(15/04,4900m),ABC(21/04,5700m),C1(25/04,6400m),C2(05/05,7100m),Smt(07/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 17 at 5400m.

  McKinlay left C2 at 02:30 hours (NST), reached summit at 12:00 hours, stayed at summit about 10 minutes. Descended to C2 at 16:00 hours, next day to ABC. Weather was very good, it was a little windy at the beginning. When sun came up there was not wind. It was warm and clear sky. Clouds around summit, in and out, saw Everest. Saw at summit prayer flags, oxygen cylinders and bamboo poles. 

  McKinlay returned to Kathmandu on May 12 and will leave on May 18. This is McKinlay's second attempt on Cho Oyu.


expid: CHOY06115
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Taichi Yoshida
sponsor: 2006 Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: By helicopter to Tatopani->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-15
smtdate: 2006-05-11
termdate: 2006-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to bad weather conditions and not enough time
campsites: BC(15/04,4900m),ABC(21/04,5700m),C1(28/04,6400m),C2(04/05,7400m),C3(10/05,7600m),xxx(11/05,7900m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Yoshida left C3 on May 11 at 06:00 hours (NST), reached 7900m at 10:30 hours, turned around to ABC at 18:00 hours. Yoshida could not continue his climb to summit due to high wind and snow starting to fall when he reached to 7900m. Also he was exhausted. He alone in C3 in that day.

  Yoshida hopes to return to Cho Oyu in autumn next year. He returned to Kathmandu on May 14 and will leave the country on 21.


expid: CHOY06116
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Milan Wlasak
sponsor: Hannah Mountain Breath Cho Oyu 2006
countries: Georgia, Slovakia
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-23
smtdate: 2006-05-10
termdate: 2006-05-21
campsites: BC(23/04,4900m),ABC(26/04,5700m),C1(29/04,6400m),C2(02/05,7100m),C3(09/05,7580m),Smt(10,13,17/06)
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC  by all group
  ABC by all group
  C1  by Gudjabidze, Havel, Horbova, Michut, Wlach
  C2  by Gudjabidze, Havel, Mojto
  C3  by Gudjabidze, Havel.

  Mojto and Havel reached high points of 7300m and 7800m on 8 May and 10 May accordingly and went down due to health conditions.

  10 May Gudjabidze started from C3 at 6 am NST, summited 14:00, stayed 30 minutes. 1 Italian was already there (with Sherpa) from Tourin; 2 Austrians summited at the same time. The Sherpa helped to find the real summit point with flags. Went down to C3, reached at 17:30. Reached BC 11 May, left BC on 17 May.

  13 May Wlasak, Korbova, Michut started from C3 at 5 am, summited 14:00. 4 Austrians and 1 Sherpa summited together. The weather was windy and cloudy, very bad. Sherpa showed the summit point with flags. Stayed about 20 minutes. Came down to C3 at 17:00, Michut to C2 at 18:00.

  17 May Novak, Kalousek, Nahlik, Vlach started from C3 at 5:30. Novak reached 7650m and turned back due to health problems, lack of strength and returned with frostbitten toes. Vlach summited at 14:00; Kalousek and Nahlik at 15:30 together with French climbers. Good weather conditions, found the summit easily, went down to C3 at 18:00. Saw Everest.


expid: CHOY06117
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: S Korea
leaders: Youn Heon-Mo
sponsor: Korean Cho Oyu Expedition - Daejeon Seil Alpine Club
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-09
smtdate: 2006-05-01
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2006-05-05
campsites: BC(09/04,4900m),ABC(12/04,5700m),C1(19/04,6500m),C2(22/04,7200m),C3(24/04,7600m),Smt(01/05)
achievment: 1st Korean to summit in the Spring 2006
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  Youn and Phu Tashi Sherpa left C3 at 05:00 hours NST on May 1, reached summit at 11:30 hours. Stayed on summit about an hour. Back to C3 at 16:30 hours. Next day to ABC. Weather conditions were good and clear while ascending, but on descending it got windy. Youn saw prayer flags, left a flag of Dae Jeon Seil Alpine Club with signature of senior club members on the summit. Nepal side was cloudy, so he could not see the Everest. On that day there were not any climbers on the summit. 
   
  Kwan-Ho Kang and Eu-Tak Kim with Pemba Chotti Sherpa attempted summit on 25 April; they left C3 at 04:30 hours, it was windy. When they reached at 8100m it was already 14:30 hours; that was their turn around time and they gave up and back to C3. 

  Member Myoung-Kwan Cha climbed up to C1 on April 22; he had to manage ABC and did not climb. 
  Rae-You Hong climbed up to C1 on April 22; due to headache he could not continue.
  Ki-Sol Kim climbed up to C2 on April 22; headache and exhausted, did not continue climbing.
  Hee-Kwan Youn was supposed to remain at ABC. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on May 6 and will leave on May 10.

  Phu Tashi Sherpa, 18/05/73, Phortse, Everest North 23/5/04

  Note: As the Dae Jeon Seil Alpine Club members climbed Khumjung, Gyachung Kang and Cho Oyu, the club plans to propose the Southern Valley of these three peaks as Korean town.


expid: CHOY06118
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Australia
leaders: Tarn Pilkington
sponsor: DXCP Cho Oyu Expedition
countries: Germany, New Zealand, UK
bcdate: 2006-05-01
smtdate: 2006-05-25
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2006-05-30
campsites: BC(01/05,4800m),ABC(10/05,5600m),C1(16/05,6400m),C2(18/05,7100m),C3(24/05,7500m),Smt(25/05)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Before moving to ABC team did some acclimatization trips around BC. On summit day summit team and Pilkington and Falgate left C3 at midnight. The weather was clear and climbing was straightforward. Good views of Everest. After summiting summit team descended to C3 where they arrived at 2pm.

  Pilkington and Falgate got to about 7700m when they turned around at 2:30 am. Pilkington felt very sick and had to vomit (food poisoning) and Falgate had very cold feet. They descended to C2, where they arrived at noon. Team descended to ABC on 26 May.

  Chiew did not make it above Chinese BC as he got a bad chest infection and was taken to Kathmandu on 12 May.

  "Sherpas"
    Jamling Bhote, 28/12/1977, Sankhuwasabha, Hatiya, Everest in 2005
    Jyamchang Bhote, 13/4/1981, Sankhuwasabha, Farang VDC, 
      Everest in 2004, Cho Oyu in 2003
    Densa Bhote, 4/11/81, Sankhuwasabha, Farang VDC, 1st 8000er


expid: CHOY06119
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Ryan Waters
sponsor: SummitClimb Cho Oyu Expedition 2006
countries: Belgium, Germany, Latvia, Netherlands, UK
bcdate: 2006-05-01
smtdate: 2006-05-23
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2006-05-27
campsites: BC(01/05,4700m),ABC(03/05,5100m),C1(09/05,6200m),C2(10/05,7000m),C3(22/05,7400m),Smt(23-24/05)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  23 May party left C3 at 4:00 am (with Chinese staff); Kraus turned back at 7900m tired and down to C2 to sleep; rest of party summited at 2:30 pm and all down to C2 (C2 occupied by next summit party) at 7:00 pm. 

  24th May summit party left C3 2:30 am. Hartmane turned back with bad cough and tired at 7700m at 4:00 am and rest to top at 9:30 am and all to C1 at 7:00 pm.

  Oxygen used by O'Brien from C3 to top to C2; Viles from C3 to top to C3.

  Hired Summiters: 
    Pasang Gombu Sherpa, 46, Saframa, Lokhim-9, Cho Oyu X3
    Tsedan Chomay, Tibetan, 20, from Zhangmu, now Lhasa as student, 1st 8000er
    Phubu Dundzu, Tibetan, Nyalam/Lhasa, 1979, Everest 21/5/03 (aka Phurba Dungchu)
    Thumba, Tibetan, 1/10/83, Shigatse, Cho Oyu 28/9/05, Everest 5/6/05

  Non-summiters: 
    Corr to C2 only, no motivation to go higher.
    Mervin to C3, stomach problem kept him from going for top.


expid: CHOY06120
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Denis Chatrefou
sponsor: CHOYEF 2006 to Cho Oyu
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-27
smtdate: 2006-05-17
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2006-05-23
campsites: BC(27/04,4900m),ABC(29/04,5700m),C1(01/05,6400m),C2(07/05,7100m),C3(16/05,7500m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 28 April at 5400m.

  Denis and Mathias Chatrefou, Labatut and Pasquer left C3 at 06:00 NST on 17th. Labatut reached summit at 13:00 hours. Pasquer, Denis and Mathias Chatrefou at 16:00 hrs. All four members descended to C3 at 20:00 hours. Weather was very good, sunny, no wind. The team met two Czechs, Labatut saw Everest; Everest side was cloudy when other members were on summit. The team saw on the summit prayer flags, two bamboo poles. Next day all descended to C1. 

  Civera stayed in BC; he got chest infection. 
  Segonne was nervous, no motivation to go beyond CBC. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on May 24 and will leave on 27th.


expid: CHOY06121
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Anjan Truffer
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Ama Dablam and Cho Oyu Expedition 2006
countries: Chile
approach: By helicopter to Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-05-07
smtdate: 2006-05-24
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2006-05-26
othersmts: Attempted Ama Dablam (AMAD-061-10)
campsites: BC(07/05,4900m),ABC(09/05,5700m),C1(13/05,6400m),C2(22/05,7100m),C3(23/05,7400m),Smt(24/05)
agency: Iceland Trekking (Dorje)
routememo:
  Summit team left C3 at 1 pm (Nepali) Weather was calm and clear. Nater and Ping Zho arrived on summit at 7 am (NST). They spent 10 minutes on summit. Good views of Everest. Nater descended to ABC, where she arrived at 3 pm. Ping Zho descended to C2, where he arrived at 1 pm. Remaining summit team arrived on summit at 10:30 am and descended to C2, where they arrived at 5 pm.

  Truffer and Wongchu Sherpa got sick in the night of 23 May. They both had an upset stomach and vomitted all night. They descended to ABC on 24 May as they were both too sick to climb. They left C3 at 9 am (NST) and arrived at ABC at 3 pm together with Nater. Remaining team descended to ABC on 25 May.

  Hired summiters:
    Pemba Sherpa, 4/9/71, Taksindu-5, Everest X4
    Pasang Tagqu, Tibetan, 1978, Shigatse, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2
    Ping Zho, Tibetan, 3rd year student in Lhasa
    Tsering Dondrup, Tibetan, Cho Oyu X3?


expid: CHOY06122
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Mexico
leaders: Fernando Davalos Gonzalez
sponsor: El Limite es el Cielo
approach: By helicopter to Tatopani->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-15
smtdate: 2006-05-07
smttime: 1415
termdate: 2006-05-11
campsites: BC(15/04,4900m),ABC(21/04,5700m),C1(23/04,6430m),C2(28/04,7400m),Smt(07/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Davalos Gonzalez and Pasang Tsheri Sherpa left C2 at 02:00 hours (NST) on May 7. Summit at 14:15 hours. Stayed on summit about 5 minutes. Descended to C2 at 17:30 hours. Next day to ABC. Weather was very good. No clouds, no wind, but cold. Pavalos Gonzalez saw summit prayer flags. McKinlay was ahead of them. Did not see other people on the summit. They could not see Everest as that side was covered with clouds. 

  Davalos Gonzalez along with Indian Expedition doctor had treated many people local as well as climbers. Davalos Gonzalez is thinking to go to Everest CBC and work voluntarily for sick people.

  The team returned to KTM on May 12 and leave on May 17 or 18.

  Pasang Tsheri Sherpa, (29/7/72), Khumjung (VDC ward no 2) Khumbu, 1st 8000er


expid: CHOY06123
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: India
leaders: Anand Swaroop
sponsor: Indian Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-28
smtdate: 2006-05-24
smttime: 0915
termdate: 2006-06-03
campsites: BC(28/04,4700m),ABC(02/05,5600m),C1(18/05,6400m),C2(19/05,7100m),Smt(24,26/05)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  Second summit: 26 May by Bodh, Bhatt, Champa, Baldev Singh, Balwant Singh, Roshan Singh, Bhag Chain, Mingma Tenji Sherpa, Nawang Thapa Sherpa, Onje Sherpa, Phurba Temba Sherpa at 6:15 am NST.

  24 May summit team left C2 at 11 pm on 23 May. Weather was clear and calm but the team had to fix the rope, so they went rather slow. They could see Mount Everest. They descended to C2 where they arrived at 3 pm. On 25 May they descended to ABC.

  26 May summit team left C3 at 10 pm on 25 May. Weather was clear in the morning good views of Everest. They descended to C2, where they arrived at 2 pm NST. They descended to ABC on 27 May.

  Sherpa summiters:

  24 May:
    Damai Chhiri   - 19/6/75, Sikli, Everest X2, Kang X1
    Dawa Gyalzen   - 10/5/86, Beding, 1st 8000er
    Phurba Chhoter - 20/8/71, Thami, Everest X1
    Phurba Namgyal -  7/2/86, Rolwaling, 1st 8000er
    Tshering/Chirring Dorje - 25/10/74, Beding, Xixa X1, Cho Oyu X3, Manaslu X1,
      Everest X6

  26 May:
    Mingma Tenji           -  21/10/67, Khumjung, 1st 8000er
    Nawang Thapa Sherpa    -  24/3/52, Beding, Cho Oyu X1
    Nima Kancha            -  30/8/79, Thami
    Ongje                  -  22/8/83, Gaurishankar-2, 1st 8000er 
    Phurba Temba/Furtemba  -  11/10/84, Gaurishankar-3, 1st 8000er


expid: CHOY06124
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Tom McMillan
sponsor: Friendship Beyond Borders Cho Oyu
approach: By air to Beijing & Lhasa
bcdate: 2006-04-08
smtdate: 2006-04-17
termdate: 2006-04-26
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to disastrous arrangements by trekking agent
campsites: BC(08/04,5400m),ABC(12/04,5670m),C1(17/04,6400m),xxx(17/04,6400m)
agency: Chinese agent
routememo:
  Sherpas:  
    Ang Dawa, 18/5/73, Tapting, Cho Oyu 11/4/01
    Nawang, 24/6/71, Tapting, Everest 16/5/04 as amputee (one leg)
    Nima Gombu, 2/1/69, Beding, Everest X11, Cho Oyu 6/10/06


  Email from Tom McMillan - 23 June 2006

  Pete Lardy, Nima Gombu and Ang Dawa reached C1 (6400m) on the first Monday in ABC, the day after Nima Gombu's birthday, that would be Monday April 17. According to my information, Nima Gombu was born on Feb 1, 1969, so I don't know about the part regarding the "day after his birthday." I got this information from Pete.

  There was a big snowstorm between April 18 and 20th. Linda and I reached Middle Camp on Saturday April 22. At this point George had been sick with a sinus cold pratically since we left the US and Pete had a sinus cold since April 17. I reached ABC on April 23 while Linda rested a day in Middle Camp. I felt alarmingly weak compared to how I am used to feel at altitude, and with George and Pete having given up due to illness. I asked Nawang how he felt. He told me that he got a pain in his chest when trying to hike up hill. So we decided to throw in the towel and sent a note down with the yak boy to send 20 yaks to end the expedition. That evening I returned to Linda with some food and fuel from ABC so I could prepare a decent meal for her. During that night Linda convinced me to keep trying, so we paid for a fast runner to take a note down to LO Mr. Dorjee asking him to cancel the 20 yaks and instead to send just 6 yaks. One of the two Chinese cooks had already quit (we saw him walking down to CBC on April 22), so our plan was to fire the other cook, and have enough yaks to take Pete or George down for a rest if we couldn't convince them to stay in ABC to see if they improved. We were going to have another puja and jump start the expedition. We also sent a note by runner up to our team explaining the new plan. We told them we could have the sat phone on all day and we sent them money so they could pay another group to borrow a sat phone and call us, so we had no chance to explain to them  what the new plan was. Even more sadly, when our second note arrived in CBC, our Chinese cook intercepted the note (an English speaking translator for our trekking agent had also arrived, so they could read my second note) while Mr. Dorjee was trying to arrange a truck for our group. The cook did not wait to talk to the LO about this second note (which clearly said we were canceling the order for 20 yaks from earlier that day) and instead he ordered 6 yaks on his own, outside of the control of the LO.

  On the evening of April 23, 20 Yaks went past us in Middle Camp and arrived in our ABC. On the morning of the 24, Linda and I started to head back up to ABC with our six yaks. For some reason the yak driver (the guy who runs the Middle Camp) kept fairly aggressively asking us for money. You see we couldn't communicate with him and naturally assumed that the LO would pay him since we did not know that our cook had made the separate arrangement. I was feeling very strong and optimistic about the climb. Such a change from the previous day when I had felt so weak. About 30 minutes below ABC, we ran into George and Pete. I got really angry when I heard what had happened and that they had not troubled to call me on the sat phone. They had given away all our food and tent sites, and had opened the valves on all of the large base camp propane bottles, so there was no way to just turn things around. Therefore we all hiked down to CBC on April 24th. Linda spent the night of the 24th at Middle Camp and rejoined us at CBC on the 25th.
           

  Expedition Schedule - Cho Oyu 2006: Friendship Beyond Borders Expedition

  Sun 02 April  flights from San Francisco to China, George has cough & sinus
                problems
  Mon 03 April  Arrive in Beijing
  Tue 04 April  fly from Beijing to Lhasa
  Wed 05 April  Lhasa
  Thu 06 April  Shigatse
  Fri 07 April  Tingri (Lao Ding Ring)
  Sat 08 April  Chinese BC - end of road portion of our journey (16,500 ft)
  Sun 09 April  Chinese BC - Pete suffers asthma problems triggered by campfire smoke
  Mon 10 April  Chinese BC - preparing to move higher
  Tue 11 April  Team moves to Middle Camp (17,500 ft) - Tom has severe sinus
                infection and fever, descends to Tingri helped by Linda. Severe 
                weather, road closures and events trap them there for 11 days.
  Wed 12 April  Team at Advanced BC (18,600ft) - start of Cho Oyu climb
  Thu 13 April  Team acclimatizing and setting up Advanced BC (ABC) site
  Fri 14 April  Team acclimatizing and setting up Advanced BC site
  Sat 15 April  Massive snow storm hits the region - all roads and passes closed, 
                no transport available to Cho Oyu camps; no communication with 
                team possible.
  Sun 16 April  Team acclimatizing
  Mon 17 April  Team members reach C1 (19898 ft)
  Tue 18 April  Team acclimatizing/climbing to C1
  Wed 19 April  Team acclimatizing/climbing to C1
  Thu 20 April  Team acclimatizing/climbing to C1
  Fri 21 April  Tom and Linda arrive back at Chinese BC (16,500ft). Tom and Linda 
                trek to Middle Camp (17,500 ft). Along the way they encounter one 
                of the team's Chinese cooks. He has walked down alone from ABC, 
                indicates he's quitting the expedition and heads for Chinese.
  Sun 23 April  Tom treks to Avanced BC (18,500ft), while Linda rests one day at
                Middle Camp before going higher. That night. Tom descends to Middle
                Camp to confer with Linda about how to solve problems with remaining
                Chinese cook at Advanced BC (ABC). Cook refuses to use clean water 
                for cooking and washing, refuses to cook the food the team prefers,
                and has threatened team members with knives when they complain about
                his behavior. Linda offers to fire the cook and take over all his 
                tasks for the rest of the expedition in order to prevent the team 
                from abandoning their effort to climb Cho Oyu.
  Mon 24 April  Tom and Linda trek to ABC to rejoin team with a strategy to solve
                problems with the cook and get the expedition back on schedule. 
                However,team has abandoned ABC, given away food and fuel, and 
                encounters Tom and Linda as they head down to Middle Camp. Now not 
                possible to continue any attempts to climb Cho Oyu.
  Tue 25 April  Team arries back at Chinese BC. Mr Dorjee of Tibet Mountaineering 
                Association (TMA) kindly arranges for Sherpas to be driven back to 
                Nepal. Rest of team is driven by Mr Dorjee's staff back to Lhasa 
                (an ardous 2-day drive on very rough roads). Mr Dorjee is a most 
                honest and helpful person. He is our hereo.
  Wed 26 April  Overnight stop in Shigatse. Paved roads from Shigatse to Lhasa make
                the last leg of the journey more bearable.
  Thu 27 April  American team members in Lhasa. Sherpa team members head south to 
                Nepal border by land.
  Fri 28 April  Sherpa team members arrive back in Kathmandu, Nepal via overland 
                from Tibet. American team members in Lhasa. Equipment prepared for
                flights to Beijing and USA.
  Sat 29 April  Flight from Lhasa to Beijing
  Sun 30 April  Beijing
  Mon 01 May    Beijing
  Tue 02 May    Return flight from Beijing to USA, end of expedition.
   

  Email by McMillan - 4 May 2006

  I spent most the first 2 weeks in Tingri trying to recuperate from a serious sinus infection that seemed to peak the day that the rest of the group headed up towards ABC from CBC. Very unfortunate since I almost never get sick anymore, but one of the other members (George) had a cold when we left and that plus the big altitude jumps coming from Beijing floored me. The other two American members, and all three Sherpas members made it to ABC. George had a bad cold the entire time, which turned into sinusitis at ABC. He was sharing at ent with Pete Lardy, so Pete also was stricken by the sinusitis and I think that Nima Gombu got it as well. Unlike the Nepali cooks, our Chinese cooks did not provide any facility for washing hands before meals. They cooked with way too much grease and refused to provide enough quantity of clean drinking fluids.

  When I reached ABC on about April 23 both Pete and George were weak and unable to climb Pete. Ang Dawa and Nima Gombu had made it to C1, but then Nima Gombu had gone back and removed C1 and had given away the good from there. Nima Gombu refused to climb anymore. Possibly he felt his job was only to support George; he had already been paid; and George was not able to climb so he wanted to go home. George said that Nima Gombu had also been sick so I'm not sure how much was illness and now much was lack of motivation caused by our two evil Chinese cooks. I heard enough bad things about these cooks to write a nice short story but suffice to say they were attempting to sabotage the expedition.

  Nawang also refused to continue, saying he had bad dreams and some pain in his chest when climbing. Pete and George had given up completely (I had intercepted a note from them asking for 20 yaks when I saw Dorjee on April 21. Only Ang Dawa wanted to still try, God bless him (he is Nawang's middle brother). Linda later said it was unbelievable that five grown men had not been able to sort out the problem of the cooks in our absence. One of our two Chinese cooks had already left for CBC claiming falsely to be sick and the other cook was refusing to do any work. The Sherpas were eating with their friends in other groups and Pete and George were cooking one meal a day of our high altitude food.


expid: CHOY06125
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Ecuador
leaders: Jose (Pepe) Jijon
sponsor: Ecuador Siete Cumbres
approach: By helicopter to Tatopani->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-15
smtdate: 2006-05-01
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2006-05-03
othersmts: Climbed Everest
campsites: BC(15/04,4800m),ABC(20/04,5800m),C1(28/04,6500m),C2(29/04,7100m),Smt(01/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Jijon left C2 at 04:00 hours (NST) on May 01, summit at 10:30 hours, stayed on summit 2-3 minutes. While descending met one Korean and a Sherpa coming up with oxgyen. Reached C1 at 19:00 hours. Summit day weather was bad, could not see Everest, it was covered with clouds.


expid: CHOY06126
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Yoshinobu Kato
sponsor: Cho-Oyu Shishapangma Expedition
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-09
smtdate: 2006-05-03
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2006-05-08
othersmts: Climbed Xixabangma (17 May)
campsites: BC(09/04,5000m),ABC(13/04,5800m),C1(21/04,6400m),C2(26/04,7000m),Smt(03/05)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 12th at 5300m.

  Kato and Amano left C2 at 01:00 hours (NST), summited at 11:00 hours, stayed on summit about 20 to 30 minutes. Descended to C1 at 15:30 hours. Next day to CBC. Weather was clear but very cold and windy. The members saw view of Everest and other mountains. On the summit saw many prayer flags, one bottle of Poisk oxygen cylinder, one Korean flag. No other expedition summited on that day. Saw summit pictures prayer flags, two bamboo poles with flags. Kato and Amano planned to try southwest side, but there was not enough snow; then they went to northwest side. The team returned to Kathmandu on May 21 and will leave on 28th.


expid: CHOY06127
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: S Korea
leaders: Yu Kil-Man
sponsor: Jeonbuk Alpine Federation Expedition 2006
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-05
smtdate: 2006-05-08
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2006-05-17
campsites: BC(05/04,4900m),ABC(08/04,5600m),C1(17/04,6300m),C2(29/04,6800m),C3(01/05,7500m),Smt(08/05)
agency: Echo Nepal
routememo:
  BC  at CBC/IC on 7 April at 5200m
  ABC at usual campsite
  C1  at usual campsite
  C2  at usual campsite
  C3  at usual campsite.

  Team left C3 at 04:30 hours CST. Gu reached summit at 10:30 hours with Sanu. It took them one hour and fifteen minutes to locate the summit point. Gu and Sanu saw Everest. The view was clear, blue skies but there was strong wind. They descended to C3 at 15:00 hours. Jeong and Tashi summited at 12:30 hours, stayed on summit for 10 minutes, saw Everest, then descended to C3 at about 17:00 hours. Two members went down to C2 at 04:30 hours of May 9 sleep there and next day to ABC. Sanu and Tashi went down to ABC. Cha and Hyun were at C3 on May 1 to summit but had to turn around on May 4 due to strong wind. 

  Miss Im went up to C1 on May 10 and next day to ABC; she was not fit enough physically to continue the climb. 
  Kim Chang-Suk went only to ABC and accomapnied Bang to Kathmandu. 
  Kim Dae-Won went up to 7200m between C2-C3 on May 7 and turned around; it was very difficult for him to continue. 
  Kim Do-Hyung went up to C2 on April 29, slept one night suffered from headache then went down to ABC. 
  Lee Jung-Pan went up to 7200m on May 7; started having throat problem then went down to C1. 
  Miss Lee spent one night at C1 on April 24; she started vomiting then went down to ABC. 
  Park Jung-Hwan reached up to 7200m; started having stomach problems and turned around. 
  Shin Dong-Hyun went up to 7200m; suffered from headache and no appetite and went down to C1. 
  Song Gi-Nam up to C1 started vomiting, turned around to ABC. 
  Sun Young-Hee reached C3; strong wind, turned around to C2. 

  Leader Yu Kil-Man up to C1 on April 15. He had to leave expedition due to business and family problems back home. He left ABC on April 17 and had to stay in Zhangmu for four days. Left Kathmandu on April 24. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on May 18 and leaving on 22nd.

  Sherpas:
    Sanu Sherpa, 30-4-1975, Walung, Makalu VDC-9, Sankhuwasabha, 1st 8000er
    Tashi Sherpa, 04-12-1977, Bung VDC-9, Cheremy, Solu, 1st 8000er

accidents:
  Bang vomited and fainted on May 3 night (put in Gamov bag of Indian team about half an hour); Bang left CBC on 4th and reached Kathmandu on 5th and left Kathmandu on 8th or 9th


expid: CHOY06128
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Poland
leaders: Piotr Pustelnik
sponsor: Himalayan Trilogy to Cho Oyu, Annapurna I & Broad Peak
countries: Czech Republic, Slovakia, USA
bcdate: 2006-03-29
smtdate: 2006-04-24
smttime: 1315
termdate: 2006-04-29
othersmts: Climbed Annapurna East (ANNE-061-01), Annapurna Middle (ANNM-061-01) and Annapurna I (ANN1-061-03)
campsites: BC(29/03,4810m),ABC(02/04,5600m),C1(05/04,6400m),C2(22/04,7100m),Smt(24/04)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Long time between occupations C1 and C2 because strong winds and most of route had ice with snow cover. 

  1st summit bid on 23rd by Bowie and Morawski; failed to find correct route and went too far to right for spring; stopped at about 7800m and returned to C2. 

  Successful bid by Hamor and Marowski who left C1 with Bowie and Pustelnik about 6:00 am (Chinese time). Bowie to 7800m and back because of very cold toes and back to C2; Pustelnik to 8100m (below rock barrier) and back to C1 because "very sleepy" and had been on top before and trip was for acclimatization for Annapurna I. Summiters on top 3:30 pm (CST) and saw Everest when clouds parted; got on top [late] because Morawski straight across plateau more slowly due to sastrugi (wind blown snow bumps), while Hamor to right as normal. Down to C2 at 6:30 pm.

  Fixed 300m of our rope and 600m old rope piece which they cut; fixed only to C2. 

  Returned to Kathmandu 30 April. 

  Svaricek arrived at BC with team; on 1 April went half way between BC and ABC, down to BC and left expedition 3 or 4 April with chest infection.


expid: CHOY06129
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Naoyuki Kato
sponsor: Independent climber on Cho Oyu
approach: By helicopter to Tatopani->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-28
smtdate: 2006-05-19
termdate: 2006-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to bad weather (white-out)
campsites: BC(28/04,4900m),ABC(30/04,5700m),C1(05/05,6400m),C2(10/05,7200m),C3(18/05,7700m),xxx(19/05,8100m)
achievment: Descending on snowboard from above yellow band to C1
agency: Thamserku Trekking/Amuse Treks
routememo:
  BC at 4900m CBC/IC on 29 April at 5200m,

  Kato left C3 at about 03:00 hours (NST) on May 18, reached approximately 8100m at about 11:00 hours on May. The weather was very bad, it was complete white-out with furious snowstorm. Then, Kato descended on snowboard from that point (8100m approximately) to 6400m through the left side couloir instead of normal right couloir. He had to take snowboard off on the crevasse traverse below C2, icefall, and some 3 pitches on the snow walls above C1. Kato did not see anybody summitting on that day. 

  He returned to Kathmandu 22 and will leave on 26.


expid: CHOY06130
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Austria
leaders: Hubert Rieger
sponsor: Austrian Cho Oyu Expedition 2006
countries: Switzerland
approach: By helicopter to Kodari
bcdate: 2006-04-25
smtdate: 2006-05-16
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2006-05-19
campsites: BC(25/04),ABC(28/04,5700m),C1(30/04,6400m),C2(08/05,7050m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Schausberger left BC 2nd May with lung problem, went to C1.
  Grasl left BC 4 May with kidney problem, also reached C1.


expid: DANS06201
peakid: DANS
year: 2006
route1: S side
nation: Japan
leaders: Tamatsu Ohnishi
sponsor: Osaka Alpine Club West Nepal Expedition 2006
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Did no climbing, only trekking in footsteps of Ekai Kawaguchi in May-June 1900.

  Purpose of trip was to follow the 1900 route of famous explorer Ekai Kawaguchi. Ohnishi's and Kawaguchi's date at place along the route are marked on attached sketch map. Ohnishi did not go to mountain Danphe Sail and did no climbing at all.


expid: DHA106101
peakid: DHA1
year: 2006
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Katja Staartjes
sponsor: Dutch Dhaulagiri Expedition 2006
approach: By helicopter from Pokhara to BC
bcdate: 2006-04-19
smtdate: 2006-05-18
termdate: 2006-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to bad weather, bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(19/04,4700m),C1(23/04,5700m),C2(29/04,6500m),C3(17/05,7150m),xxx(18/05,7600m)
agency: Nepal Myths & Mountain Trails
routememo:
  Team and Pem Tenji and Da Chhemba Sherpa left C3 at 12:45 am on 18 May. Staartjes and Wesselius went ahead and when they got to 7600m, they noticed that their Sherpas were about one hour behind. The wind had also picked up. When they got to the point where the ridge becomes knife-edged, the snow was very soft and loose (about 7500m). They carried on for another 100m and decided they should fix a rope. However, the rope was with the Sherpas and they had not arrived. After about 10 minutes they decided to descend as conditions were dangerous without a rope and they did not want to wait for Sherpas. They met the ascending Sherpas at about 7400m at 4:30 am and they descended together. They descended to C1 the same day, after dismantling the tents at C3 and C2. They arrived at 2 pm. There was a huge thunderstorm and it was snowing on 19 May. They descended to BC. 

  They left BC on 23 May as they had to wait for porters. They walked out to Dharbang, where they arrived on 26 May.

  Sherpas:
    Pem Tenji Sherpa, Sotang, 24/9/63, Solu, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X4
    Da Chhemba Sherpa, Gudel, 20/2/68, Solu, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2


expid: DHA106102
peakid: DHA1
year: 2006
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Carlos Pauner
sponsor: Spanish Dhaulagiri Expedition
bcdate: 2006-04-17
smtdate: 2006-05-03
termdate: 2006-05-07
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(17/04,4700m),C1(21/04,5800m),C2(22/04,6400m),xxx(03/05,7800m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC by helicopter from Kathmandu
  C1 at NE Col
  C2 at left side of NE Ridge
  High point below traverse.

  Down to BC on 23rd to rest. All members up on 1 May for summit bid. At C1 Barbier and Orviz stopped because Barbier suddenly had no strength, rested for 1 hour; Barbier not better so both down to BC while other 3 members up to C2 for the night. 2 May up and made biv at 7200m near NE Ridge because storm (snow and wind) came up. At midnight 3 members up again and at 6:00 am 3 May 7800m below traverse. Down now becaus Kazakhs who had bived there, reported traverse covered by very deep snow with wind slab on top and wind slab can avalanche under climbers. Went immediately down and reached BC through/around many crevasses between Col and BC at 2:00 pm. 

  Now after hearing weather forecast bad weather for one week with snow falling and no chance to reach top terminated the climb.


expid: DHA106103
peakid: DHA1
year: 2006
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Romano Benet
sponsor: Dhaulagiri I Annapurna I 2006
ascent1: 121
bcdate: 2006-04-12
smtdate: 2006-05-17
smttime: 1340
termdate: 2006-05-19
othersmts: Attempted Annapurna I (ANN1-061-01)
campsites: BC(12/04,4600m),Biv1(23/04,6300m),C2(09/05,7200m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Biv 1 near NE Ridge above NE Col
  C2 near NE Ridge.

  Bad weather delayed making biv at 6300m (1 meter fresh snow on 19th). Took tents, etc. at 6300m and moved it to 7200m (Agostinis down immediately to BC but other 3 to 7200m). On 10th May other 3 members to BC also because of snow and wind storm. Waited in BC for better weather. 

  Now Agostinis had to return to work, so other 3 left BC and went to 6300m on 15 May. 16th Vuerich down to BC with throat infection; Benet and Meroi to C2. 17th both left C2 2:00 am and on top 1:40 pm; from 7000m Benet broke trail. Down to 7200m in lightning and fresh snow at 6:00 pm. They had stayed on NE Ridge all the way up, but down took traverse used by most teams because of lightning danger on ridge greater than on face - half an hour's climb up from false summit along ridge to true summit. 18 May at BC at 10:00 hours.


  Italian Dhaulagiri I in Spring 2006, led by Romano Benet

  Inaki Ochoa said on 28 March 2008 that he had no doubt about this team's Dhaulagiri I summit claim. He had seen their pictures, which clearly show that they summited.

  (Their claim seemed to be disputed in an article in the Italian climbing magazine, Alp Wall, as per their email to me of 29 Nov 2006 which is included in this expedition file).


expid: DHA106104
peakid: DHA1
year: 2006
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Hungary
leaders: Laszlo Mecs
sponsor: First Hungarian Dhaulagiri Expedition
ascent1: 122
bcdate: 2006-05-07
smtdate: 2006-05-27
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2006-06-01
campsites: BC(07/05,4700m),C1(08/05,5800m),C2A(13/05,6350m),C2B(17/05,6650m),C3(17/05,7300m),Smt(27/05)
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC at same site as Kazakhstani's camp.

  Eross left C3 for top 9:00 pm 26 May and on top 11:30 am 27 May and slept in C3, 28th BC.


  Email from Laszlo Mecs - 21 June 2006

  1. Our members and the first transport of our equipment reached BC on the 5th, the 2nd transport on the 7th of May.

  2. Camp 1:  5800m, 8th of May
     Camp 2A: 6350m, 13 of May
     Camp 2B: 6650m, 17 of May
     Camp 3:  7300m, 17 of May (the team did not move together all the time).

  3. Mr. Eross reached the top on the 27th of May, at 11:21 am (he started from C3 at 9 pm).

  4. At first he tried to traverse the snowfield, but because of the bad snow conditions he decided to climb up straight to the ridge and continue to the summit.

  5. Mr. Szabolcs Szendro (just celebrated his 60th birthday) suffered from more problems: first of all, one of his legs was amputated under the knee (when he was 16) and during our 9 days walk to BC the friction of the artificial leg hurt the skin of his leg. Later he had other problems like serious back pain, etc. He reached camp 2A (6350m) on the 18th.

  We four reached camp 2B (6650m) on the 25th of May, around 10 am.
   
  Because of the heavy sunshine, bad snow conditions and not to waste more time of the perfect weather suddenly we created a new, daring plan. We put up our tents there (tents of our Camp 2B and Camp 3 were taken to Camp 1 on the 18th of May), having rested during the day and after sunset try to go directly for the summit. Mr Babscan found it too risky and decided to turn back next day. Mr. Eross, Miss Ugyan and me left the tents at 11 pm with light rucksacks; no tents, no sleeping bag, no stove. We had to break new trail so it took 8 hours for us to reach [where] Camp 3. It was 7 pm, the sun started to melt the snow so it seemed impossible to reach the summit that day. Because we had no tent, no sleeping bag and no stove (it was the main problem) Miss Ugyan and me decided to turn back. Mr Eross spend the day in C3 and started his summit bid at 9 pm.


expid: DHA106105
peakid: DHA1
year: 2006
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Kazakhstan
leaders: Maxut Zhumayev
sponsor: Kazakhstani Dhaulagiri I & Annapurna I Expedition 2006
ascent1: 120
bcdate: 2006-04-25
smtdate: 2006-05-02
smttime: 1630
termdate: 2006-05-05
othersmts: Climbed Annapurna I (ANN1-061-02)
campsites: BC(25/04,4600m),C1(28/04,5800m),C2(29/04,6600m),C3(30/04,7200m),C4(01/05,7400m),Smt(02/05)
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
primid: ANN106102
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at NE Col
  C2 100m below NE Ridge (near Dutch)
  C3 on NE Ridge
  C4 on snow ridge above NE Ridge.

  2 May at 12:00 am started for top; did not make normal traverse to right because "we have storm and cannot see traverse" (storm of snow, lightning and wind very high), but did see poles at false summit and went past it on near on its right side ridge which was not very difficult: steep but hard snow and no cornices. 4:30 pm on top and down to C4 at 7:30-8:00 pm. 3 May to BC and 5 May left BC to go to Annapurna I.


expid: DHA106106
peakid: DHA1
year: 2006
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Angel Villan Polo
sponsor: Spanish Dhaulagiri Expedition 2006
approach: Bus to Beni->Tatopani->Marpha->Jomsom-BC by helicopter
bcdate: 2006-04-15
smtdate: 2006-05-18
termdate: 2006-05-23
campsites: BC(15/04,4650m),C1(23/04,5800m),C2(29/04,6750m),C3(17/05,7400m),xxx(18/05,7780m)
agency: Chomolungma Pilgrimage
routememo:
  Lagunilla Alonso and Villan Polo (leader) left C3 at 02:00 hours of 18th. Both reached 7700m at about 05:30 hours and had to turn around due to deep snow conditions and high winds on the upper part of the mountain. Lagunilla Alonso descended to BC which he reached at 14:00 hours. Villan Polo reached C1 at 12:30 hours. Next day to BC. 

  On their summit day there were two Dutch and two Sherpas behind the Villain Polo team. The Dutch team turned around from 50m below the Spanish team. Hungarian team still was on mountain when the Spanish team left BC. 

  The team left BC on May 19 and arrived in Kathmandu on May 29 and will leave the country on June 3. 

  Team member Carlos Soria Fontan thinking to come for Dome Kang, an unclimbed peak near Kangchenjunga in autumn. 


expid: DHA106107
peakid: DHA1
year: 2006
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Colombia
leaders: Camilo Lopez
sponsor: Above and Beyond Mountaineering to Dhaulagiri I
bcdate: 2006-04-17
smtdate: 2006-05-06
termdate: 2006-05-07
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to bad weather and no more motivation
campsites: BC(17/04,4600m),C1(20/04,5800m),C2(27/04,6600m),xxx(06/06,7600m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at NE Col
  C2 at NE Ridge.

  6 May Lopez and 4 Italians (Benet Team) left C2 at 4:00 am in summit push and reached 7600m, sat down to rest, saw clouds coming in, so decided to abandon attempt and started descent at 1:43 pm and at C1 at 3:45-4:00 pm. Slept in C1. 7th learned by walkie-talkie that Pauner of Spanish team had ordered helicopter from BC. Reached BC about 9:15 am, rushed down to catch helicopter and left BC gear behind for Iranians to bring to Kathmandu. Broke trail for all teams from BC to C1 twice, climbing solo; others fixed rope. Gave up because bad weather and wanted to climb as self-sufficient climber and saw no more motivation.


expid: DHA106108
peakid: DHA1
year: 2006
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Iran
leaders: Mehdi Etemadfar
sponsor: Iranian Team on Dhaulagiri I
approach: Kathmandu to Pokhara by bus, Pokhara to BC by helicopter
bcdate: 2006-04-17
smtdate: 2006-05-18
termdate: 2006-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to high wind deep snow
campsites: BC(17/04,4600m),C1(20/05,5500m),C2(25/04,6300m),C3(06/05,6800m),C4(17/05,7200m),xxx(18/05,8000m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at usual BC site
  C1 at usual campsite
  C2 at usual campsite
  C3 at usual campsite
  C4 at usual campsite.

  On 18th May Etemadfar and Jaber-Ansari left C4 at 02:00 hours, reached at 8000m at 10:00 hours. Very difficult to continue due to deep snow conditions and also started up wind. Rested for about 15 minutes, turned around to C4 at 14:45 hours. Next day to C2. Following day to ABC. Porters arrived at BC after three hours then all members left BC. 

  Foroutanian (base camp manager) stayed at BC all the time. 

  Two Italians summited Dhaulagiri on May 17. 

  The expedition team returned to Kathmandu on May 25 will leave on May 30 or June 1.

  Next year may come for Cho Oyu.


expid: EVER00157
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: N Col
nation: Italy
leaders: Alessando Gogna
campsites: BC,ABC(6400m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Did no climbing above ABC. 

  This was an expedition for only cleaning rubbish from ABC and BC and none went above ABC on North Col route.


expid: EVER06173
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Ecuador
leaders: Jose (Pepe) Jijon
sponsor: Ecuador Siete Cumbres
approach: Cho Oyu to Xigar
bcdate: 2006-05-08
smtdate: 2006-05-17
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2006-05-25
othersmts: Climbed Cho Oyu (CHOY-061-25)
campsites: BC(08/05,5300m),ABC(11/05,6300m),C2(15/05,7700m),C3(16/05,8300m),Smt(17/05)
achievment: 1st Ecuadorian to complete seven summits
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 10th at 5800m.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Jijon started from C3 at 02:00 hours (NST) on May 17, reached summit at 12:00 hours, stayed on summit one hour. Descended to C2 at 19:00 hours, stayed there without sleeping bag; it was very cold. Next day to ABC. While on summit came up 2-3 Sherpas and 5 organized French. They were the last one to summit on that day. Jijon while descending had talked with Negrete at C2 with two Sherpas for about 25 minutes. Jijon tried to contact Negrete on May 19 at about 09:00 hours. Ang Dawa told him that Negrete died at 02:00 hours. Jijon made his ascent alpine-style and solo. He used about 10 percent of fix ropes. 

  Jijon returned to Kathmandu on May 25 and trying to leave as soon as possible. He also said that the weather was good between May 10 to 25.


expid: EVER06102
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Douglas Tumminello
sponsor: Team No Limits to Everest (group of independents)
approach: Lukla->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-13
smtdate: 2006-05-23
smttime: 0545
termdate: 2006-05-26
campsites: BC(13/04,5300m),C1(24/04,6000m),C2(30/04,6300m),C3(01/05,7000m),C4(22/05,8000m),Smt(23/05)
accidents: Dawa Temba and Lhakpa Tsering died in the icefall
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Summit team left C4 at 8:30 pm on 22 May. Weather was clear and calm, good views from the summit. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit. There were about 10 people on the summit. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 9:30 am. They descended to C2 on 24 May and BC on 25 May. 

  Rigsby got to C1 on 29 April. He spent one night there. When he was climbing to C1 he was very slow (9 hours) and he had high blood pressure. He left BC on 2 May.

  Tredway got to C3 on 1 May. He stayed for one night on acclimatization trip. On 4 May he was climbing from BC to C2 when he had serious chest pain and pain in the left arm. He and Tumminello descended to BC, where BC doctor took an ECG. By helicopter on 5 May. He is fine now and back in the States.

  On 21 April Dawa Temba and Lhakpa Tshering and eight other Sherpas were carrying loads over the icefall when a huge serac fell down at 7:30 am and buried them. Dawa Temba, Lhakpa Tshering and Phinjo Sherpa from IMG were killed; the other 7 could dig themselves out.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Temba, 24/6/84, Thamo, no 8000ers
    Lhakpa Tshering, 17/1/71, Mende, near Thamo, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X1


expid: EVER06103
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Myung-Joon Kim
sponsor: Team No Limits to Everest (group of independents)
approach: Lukla->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-10
smtdate: 2006-05-19
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2006-05-21
campsites: BC(10/04,5397m),C1(24/04,6200m),C2(25/04,6600m),C3(04/05,7200m),C4(18/05,7925m),Smt(19/05)
achievment: Kim is oldest to summit among 7 summiters and oldest (ethnic) Korean to summit Everest
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 at usual campsite
  C2 at usual campsite
  C3 at usual campsite
  C4 at South Col.

  Kim, Apa, Ang Pasang and Pasang Temba left C4 at 23:00 hours on May 18, summited at 11:00 hours on 19th, stayed on summit 30 minutes, descended to C4 at 18:00 hours. Before leaving C4 it was windy and snowing; at the time of leaving South Col there was little wind and snow. When the team reached the Balcony, it was clear and good. Before the Kim team there were about 10 people and behind them also were about 10 people. Kim found the Everest summit different than he had expected; the summit was not flat as expected.

  Kim donated $2000 for the funeral of the two Sherpas killed in the icefall. He is also going to establish foundation to raise fund to help the surviving family members children for their education and lively-hood. Kim will be leaving Nepal on May 25.

  Sherpa summiters:  
    Apa Sherpa, 46, Thami, Everest X15
    Ang Pasang, 19/4/67, Thami, Everest X6, Lhotse X1
    Pasang Temba, 36, Mende, Namche-5, Everest 22/5/03

accidents:
  Two Sherpas belong to Team No Limits group of independent climber dead on icefall due to collapse of seracs


expid: EVER06104
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Will Cross
sponsor: Novolog Peaks and Poles Challenged (Team No limits to Everest group)
approach: Lukla->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-06
smtdate: 2006-05-23
smttime: 0510
termdate: 2006-05-26
campsites: BC(06/04,5300m),C1(15/04,6000m),C2(16/04,6300m),C3(19/05,7300m),C4(22/05,8000m),Smt(23/05)
achievment: 1st American diabetic
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Cross was intending to become first diabetic to summit Everest, but Gerry Weber from Austria (Alpine Ascents) summited before him. Weather was clear; there were no other people on the summit. Ang Rita and Cross descended to C4 where they arrived at 9 am; they rested for a while and carried on to C2 where they arrived at 5 pm. Lhakpa stayed at C2 as he was too tired to carry on. 

  Being diabetic did not pose a problem for Cross; he was using an insulin pump the entire time on the mountain.

  Lhakpa's ascent without oxygen was unintended; he was not inhaling oxygen.

  Sherpas:
    Arita Sherpa, Thami, 1959-60
    Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa, Phurte, Namche-4, 20/8/71


expid: EVER06105
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Julie Smith
sponsor: Team No Limits to Everest (group of independents)
approach: Lukla->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-10
smtdate: 2006-05-23
smttime: 0715
termdate: 2006-05-26
campsites: BC(10/04,5300m),C1(24/04,6000m),C2(26/04,6300m),C3(06/05,7300m),C4(22/05,8000m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Team left C4 at 8:30 pm on 22 May together with Cross, Tumminello and their Sherpas. Weather was clear and not too cold. They spent 30 minutes on summit and descended to C4 where they arrived at midday. On 24 May they descended to C2 and on 25 May to ABC.

  Sherpa:
    Nawang Pasang, Thamiteng, Namche-8, 1959


expid: EVER06106
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Klaus Mees
sponsor: Team No Limits to Everest (group of independents)
approach: Lukla->Gokyo->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-22
smtdate: 2006-05-19
termdate: 2006-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 8700m due to late in the day, oxygen ran out
campsites: BC(22/04,5300m),C1(30/04,6000m),C2(05/05,6400m),C3(11/05,7400m),C4(18/05,7900m),xxx(19/05,8700m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C4 at South Col
  High point at bottom of Hillary Step.

  Mees and Phurba left C4 at 11 pm on 18 May. It was very windy. They were not sure whether they should do summit push but Adventure Consultants team left for summit, so they decided to leave. They had to break trail through new snow, which was very hard. When Mees arrived at the bottom of the Hillary Step he decided to turn around as he had already used 40% of his third and last oxygen bottle and there were about 20 people there. He turned back at about 11:15 am. They descended to C4, where they arrived at about 4 pm. Mees was very exhausted as his oxygen had run out at 8500m. He lay down in his tent and inhaled oxygen. On 20 May he descended to C2 and then to BC the next day.

  Sherpa:
    Furba Tundu/Phurba Thundup, Beding, 1975-76, scaled Everest 18 May 2003


expid: EVER06107
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Luis Benitez
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Private Everest Expedition 2006
countries: Canada, New Zealand, UK
bcdate: 2006-04-12
smtdate: 2006-05-24
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2006-05-27
campsites: BC(12/04),C1(23/04,6100m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(06/05,7100m),C4(22/05,7900m),Smt(24/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Flew by helicopter to KTM from Pheriche on 10 May for rest and recreation and back to Pheriche on 14 May, returned to BC 15 May.

  Left for top on 23 May at 8:30 pm, thought group might be slow but snow conditions perfect and moved very fast. All 5 members and 9 Sherpas on top 6:00 am on 24th; back to Col 10:15 am (Luis Benitez, Follows and Sandling), 12:00 (Stanmore, Moffat); slept there and to C2 on 25 May; to BC on 26 May.

  Oxygen used by all Sherpas in C4 to top to and in C4. Members Moffat and Benitez in C3 to top to and C4, then to C3. Other members in C3 to top to C3.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Pasang Tenzing, 21/1/78, Phortse, Everest X4
    Sange Dorje, 29, Khumjung, no 8000ers
    Lhakpa Tenzing, 36, Khumjung, no 8000ers
    Lhakpa Tharke, 14/5/81, Phortse, Everest X1
    Tashi Tendu, 27, Pangboche, no 8000ers
    Pemba Choti, 27, Khumjung, no 8000ers
    Pemba Gyalzen, 28, Khumjung, no 8000ers
    Phurba Ridar Bhote, 1958-59, Chepuwa-4, Makalu, Everest X1, K2 X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Pasang Bhote, 21, Chepuwa-4, Makalu, 1st 8000er (Phurba Ridar's son)


expid: EVER06108
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dave Morton
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Everest Expedition 2006
countries: Austria, Belgium, UK
bcdate: 2006-04-08
smtdate: 2006-05-20
termdate: 2006-05-23
campsites: BC(08/04),C1(20/04,6000m),C2(22/04,6400m),C3(02/05,7200m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(20/05)
accidents: Kami Rita (Topke) injured by Icefall fallings; diabetic Winkler near collapse
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  First summit bid from C4 at 11:00 pm, but turned around at 8100m because of snow and wind: all members except LeClaire plus 6 Sherpas and back to C4 at 1:30 am. That night left for top at 8:00 pm and 20th all to summit in excellent weather (Morton on top an hour with gloves off) at 7:00 am to 8:50 am. All to C4 12:00 pm and 2:00 pm and slept there. Winkler, who had cycled from Dead Sea below sea level to Jiri (about 1900m) and trekked to BC is diabetic and at summit push time had failed to take his insulin; he seemed to be extremely tired and often almost fell asleep (would have fallen asleep if teammates hadn't kept them awake); it was found that his blood sugar level had gone dangerously high. All went from C4 to C2 on 21st except LeClaire, who went to C3 only.

  Oxygen: Sherpas from C4 to top to C4; all members in C3 to top to and in C4 except Morton and Nichols, who used it to C2.

  Summit Sherpas:
    Phura Kancha, 25, Thami, 1st 8000er, brother of Mingma Chhiri
    Mingma Chhiri, 22/7/68, Thami, Everest X7, brother of Phura Kancha
    Kami Rita (aka Topke), 17/1/70, Thami, Everest X9, Cho Oyu X9
    Chuwang Nima, 20/8/67, Phortse, Everest X12, Cho Oyu X2
    Lhakpa Rita, 9/9/66, Thami, Everest X8, Cho Oyu X5
    Tshering Dorje, 20/03/70, Kharikhola, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X3


expid: EVER06109
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Kenton Cool
sponsor: Jagged Globe Everest Expedition 2006
countries: Bolivia
approach: Lukla->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-06
smtdate: 2006-05-17
smttime: 1515
termdate: 2006-05-21
campsites: BC(06/04,5200m),C1(11/04,6000m),C2(19/04,6250m),C3(25/04,7000m),C4(16/04,7950m),Smt(17/05)
achievment: (1) Jones youngest to summit seven summits; (2) Cool is first Brit to summit Everest 3 times
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier.

  Six members Cool, Drowley, Escobar, Farthing, Welsh and Jones and five Sherpas left C4 at midnight; seven reached summit at 15:15 hours, stayed about 10 minutes, descended to C4 all members and Sherpas by 19:00 hours. The team was followed to the summit by two Korean, one Filipino, two Sherpas Kari Koblar's team member and a Sherpa.

  Team member Drowley and Farthing turned around from Balcony with two Sherpas. Drowley suffered from cold feet, for Farthing it was too late and he was very tired to continue climbing. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on May 24 and leaving on different dates. Leader is leaving on 28th. Cool will be coming for Cho Oyu on August 26.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Pasang Tenzing, 1/10/84, Beding, Everest X2 
    Thundu, 18/02/78, Beding, Everest 26/5/03, Cho Oyu X1
    Pema Chhiring/Chhiri, 17/12/83, Beding, Everest X4, Lhotse X1, Cho Oyu X1

  Non-summiting Sherpas:
    Mingma Tsiri, Beding
    Lhakpa Thundu, aka Tindu, 20/5/70


expid: EVER06110
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Dirk Stephan
sponsor: Team No Limits to Everest (group of independents)
approach: Lukla->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-05
smtdate: 2006-05-18
termdate: 2006-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to high wind
campsites: BC(05/04,5300m),C1(24/04,6100m),C2(26/04,6500m),C3(04/05,7500m),C4(18/05,8000m),xxx(18/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Team left C3 at 8 am and arrived at C4 at mid-day. It was very windy. On 19 May they abandoned the climb as the wind was too strong. They descended to BC where they arrived at 2 pm.

  Sherpa:
    Mingma Tenzing Sherpa, Namche-6, 1967-68 (son of Sange Sherpa)


expid: EVER06111
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Tim Calder, Henry Todd
sponsor: ICE 8000 Expedition Everest 2006
countries: Australia, Canada
bcdate: 2006-04-12
smtdate: 2006-05-18
smttime: 0530
termdate: 2006-05-28
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),C1(21/04,6100m),C2(28/04,6300m),C3(05/05,7380m),C4(17/05,7900m),Smt(18/05)
accidents: Only very minor frostbite (Botha's & Pomfret toes)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  1st summit party left C4 at 9:30 pm of 17th; summiters and Topchen who turned back at 8400m because oxygen mask frozen up down to C4. Summiters were on top from 5:30 am onwards and all to C4 to sleep at 9:00 am to 12:00 except extremely tired Botha, who returned to C4 5:00 pm.

  2nd summit party: summiters and Brennan and Ang Namgyal who turned back at 8650m when Brennan too exhausted to go on up and back to C4. All left C4 10:30 pm 24 May and on top 25 May 7:00 am to 9:20 am and C4 except Casserley, Colquhoun, Hayes, Pasang Dawa (again), Lhakpa Thundu (again), Topchen Bhote and Pemba Chhiri (Pasang Dawa and Lhakpa Thundu started from BC).

  Oxygen used by members from C3 to their high points to C4, some below C4. Sherpas from C4 to summit to high points to C4.

  Member not in summit attempts:

  Joshi went into the Icefall, but was scared off by collapse of the Icefall that killed three Sherpas on 21 April and left expedition about 26 April.

  Sherpa summiters:

  19 May:
    Pasang Dawa (aka Pando), 18/1/77, Pangboche, Everest X5, Lhotse X1, Cho Oyu X3
    Pasang Nuru, 13/4/76, Pangboche, 1st 8000er
    Ang Namgyal, 21 years old, Pangboche, 1st 8000er
    Chewang Dorje, 23 years old, Pangboche, 1st 8000er
    Lhakpa Thundu/Thumdu, 20/5/70, Pangboche, Everest X1, Annapurna X1

  25 May:
    Topchen Bhote, about 28 years old, formerly from Makalu, now Somere (between 
      Pheriche and Pangboche, 1st 8000er
    Pemba Chhiri/Tshering, 1965, Pangboche, Everest X2, Lhotse X1
    Lhakpa Thundu again from BC
    Pasang Dawa again from BC


expid: EVER06112
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: S Col-SE Ridge (up); NE Ridge-N Col (down)
nation: Italy
leaders: Simone Moro
sponsor: Independent climber on Everest and Lhotse
bcdate: 2006-04-12
smtdate: 2006-05-20
smttime: 0315
termdate: 2006-06-23
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (5 April)
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),C2(16/04,6350m),C3(03/05,7200m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(20/05)
achievment: 1st South->North traverse of Everest since 1988
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Everest BC site
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on West Face of Lhotse
  C4 at South Col.

  Intended to make new route on North Face of West Ridge of Lhotse to top and traverse ridge to summit down North Ridge to South Col and on Everest summit and down Hornbein Couloir and back to Western Cwm. Slept in C2 3 nights because 1 meter snowfall and now decided because of "huge" avalanches down from West Face and his planned North Face of West Ridge 19th to BC through deep snow not possible and abandoned Lhotse attempt.

  Rested in BC till 24th, then to C2, 25th headed up to C3 but at 6900m stopped in very hot temperature and left rucksack hanging in fixed rope (all climbing gear inside) and down to BC. 26th helped rescue Walter Berardi (Merelli's Lhotse team) who hit on head by ice in Khumbu Icefall. 27th flew from BC to Kathmandu with Berardi and 31st flew back to BC in another team's helicopter. 

  2nd May to C2, 3rd to rucksack on West Face, rucksack but it was gone; still he continued to C3 and so slept in Poland Everest team's tent. 4th went to 7600m at Yellow Band to acclimatize and back to BC, then to Deboche village. Back to BC 9th.

  16th to C2, 17th to C3, 18th to C4. 19th left C4 at 23:00 hours and on top at 3:15 using oxygen (bottle in rubbish on Col, mask and regulator left for him by Polish whose tent he slept in: they came down from top as he arrived in C4). Now completely dark (no moonlight) and ahead of all other teams). Stayed 10 minutes; met on top 1 US woman and her Sherpa who had arrived on top 15 minutes before Moro; she took pix of Moro then down normal route: could not see where Hornbein Couloir was so could not follow his plan to descend back to C2 in Cwm. So followed fixed lines which were covered with snow so had to work hard to pull ropes up and use them. Went all the way to [north side] ABC in 5 hours 15 minutes from top - "thats the way to survive in the mountains" to move very fast; slept in Piantoni's tent.

  22nd to BC, where his friend who lives in Lhasa and speaks Chinese, joined him to explain to 2 LO's (Tibetans) and later in village to policeman. Moro received paper in Chinese explained Moro had descended north side because had lost his way; this enabled him to cross border.

  Used oxygen for 2 hours in C4 and again 3 hours up from Balcony 19-20 May.

  Note: Moro had his passport with him - others believe he intended N->S traverse from the start. They point out also that his friend from Lhasa was waiting at BC for him and they say he had to pay $3000 for this border pass.


  Simone Moro - 3 April 2007

  Moro does not deny that he planned the traverse from the start. He had previously inquired [indirectly] about obtaining a traverse permit, but was denied.


expid: EVER06113
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Arnold Coster
sponsor: SummitClimb Friendship Expedition to Everest 2006
countries: France, India, UK, USA
bcdate: 2006-04-13
smtdate: 2006-05-18
smttime: 0530
termdate: 2006-05-31
campsites: BC(13/04,5350m),C1(22/04,6000m),C2(29/04,6350m),C3(03/05,7200m),C4(17/05,7900m),Smt(18,21,24/05)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 at West Cwm
  C3 at Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col

  Sherpa summiters:
    Dawa Chhiri/Chiri, 20/2/67, Kurima, Everest X2, Makalu X2, Cho Oyu X1
    Mrs Maya (wife of Coster), 3/1/78, Patle, Cho Oyu X1
    Pasang Gelu, 41-42 yrs old, Dhimbul, Gudel, Dhaulagiri X1, Everest X2
    Phuri, aka Ang Phuri, 27/4/69, Patle, Everest X1
    Tenji, 1/6/82, Patle, Everest X2

  Summit parties

  18 May: Imparato and Dawa Chhiri left C4 at 10:00 pm on 17th on top top at 5:30 am on 18th, descended to C3.

  21 May: Malli and Tenji left C4 at 10:00 pm on 20th, on top at 7:00 am on 21st, descended to C4.

  24 May: Coster, Morley, Pasang Gelu, Mrs. Maya, Phuri and Da Tenji (29 years old, Kharikhola) left C4 at 10:00 pm on 23rd; Coster reached 8600m, started vomiting, and returned to C4. Da Tenji's oxygen system failed at 8600m and he returned to C4; on top at 8:30 am on 24th were Morley and Pasang Gelu. While descending Hillary Step, they met Mrs. Maya going for top and they went back up with to take photos of her on top, which they reached together at 9:00 am. Phuri reached top at 9:30 am alone. All down to C4.

  Oliver on 19 May reached 6600m at 11:00 am from C2, was now very tired (not a young man), turned back and went down to base camp. He left expedition 21 May.


expid: EVER06133
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Stuart Peacock
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Everest Expedition 2006
countries: Ireland
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-10
smtdate: 2006-05-17
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2006-05-22
campsites: BC(10/04,5200m),ABC(17/04,6400m),C1(21/04,7032m),C2(15/05,7800m),C3(16/05,8223m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  at 5200m CBC/IC on 16th at 5650m
  ABC at 6400m
  C1  at 7032m little lower than North Col
  C2  at 7800m
  C3  at 8223m top camp lower than usual C3 site.

  Gauntlett, Harrod, Hooper, McGuirk, McNaughton, Peacock, Mingma Nuru, Sonam Dorje and Nuru Wangchu Sherpa left top camp at 22:30 hours (NST) on May 16. McGuirk had to turn around from 8650m to top camp with Nuru Wangchu due to exhaustion. Gauntlett, Hooper, Peacock, Mingma Nuru and Sonam Dorje reached summit at 07:30 hours on May 17. They spent 1 hour 10 minutes on summit. Harrod and McNaughton reached summit at 09:30 hours. Both of them stayed on top for 20-30 minutes. Everybody had descended to top camp by mid-afternoon. Next day to ABC. Summit day weather was good. 

  Beaucall reached the North Col 7032m and then contracted a chest problem, which did not clear before the summit attempt was made. He remained at North Col. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on May 24 and left on 26.

  Summit Sherpas:
    Mingma Nuru Sherpa, Pangboche (22/04/1969), Everest X3, Cho Oyu X3, Lhotse X1
    Sonam Dorje, Pangboche (18/01/1986), brother of Nuru Wangchu, summited Cho Oyu in 200?
    Nuru Wangchu Sherpa (18/08/1977)


expid: EVER06115
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Mark Tucker
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Everest Expedition 2006
countries: Australia, Austria, Canada, Germany, Switzerland
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2006-04-03
smtdate: 2006-05-18
smttime: 0510
termdate: 2006-05-20
campsites: BC(03/04,5340m),C1(13/04,6000m),C2(16/04,6550m),C3(03/05,7300m),C4(10/05,7927m),Smt(18-20,23-24/05)
achievment: Danenberg first black woman to summit Everest?
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  Buel, Carrey, Flock, Merle, Laserer, Karma Rita (28), Nima Karma (22), Ang Chhiring (Kami) (42), Dorjee Lama (32), Sanduk Dorje (21) and Danuru (Dawa) (46) left C4 between 20:30-21:30 hours on May 17, summited between 05:10-07:00 hours on May 18, spent time on summit on average 30 minutes. The team descended to C4 where members and Sherpas reached between 11:00-11:30 hrs. Carrey, Merle and Danuru (Dawa) went down to C2 where they reached between 15:00-15:30 hrs.

  Danenberg, Turner, Panuru (28) and Mingma Chiring (30) (brothers) left C4 at 23:00 hours on May 18. Turner had to turn around between South Col and Balcony due to stomach problem. Danenberg, Panuru and Mingma Chiring summited on May 19 (details not available).

  Walsh, Dawa Nuru (27) and Mingma Tenzing (20) left C4 at 20:30 hours on May 19, summited at 02:55 hours on 20th, descended to C4 at about 06:00 hours.

  Fiona Adler and Mingma Ongel (28) left C4 at 21:00 hours on May 22, summited at 08:30 hours on May 23, descended to C4 spent night there. Paul Adler and Ang Namgyal (26) left C4 at 22:00 hours, turned around from 65m below South Summit to C4. 

  Kellner, Phinzo (35) and Ang Karma (30) left C4 at 22:15 hours on May 22, summited at around 06:00 hours on May 23, descended to South Col by 08:30 hours (about), went down to C2. 

  Hahn and Danuru (of May 18th summit) left C4 at 23:00 hours on May 22, summited at 04:20 hours on May 23 stayed about 15 minutes on summit, descended to South Col at 06:35 hours, went down to C2.

  Gagne, Griffith, Paul Alder, Pemba Dorje (44) and Tashi Tshering (36) left C4 around 21:00 hours on May 23. Paul Alder turned around from below the Balcony to C4. Griffith and Tashi Tshering summited at about 06:00 hours on May 24, descended to C4 at 09:00 hours. Gagne and Pemba Dorje summited at 07:00 hours on May 24, descended to C4 at 13:30 hours. All stayed at C4. Next day to C2. 

  High point for Allen ws 20,500 ft; suffered from chest infection. Leader Tucker remained at BC. Turner had to turn around from between South Col and Balcony due to stomach problem to C2. Gerstein reached up to C3, suffered from stroke, went home early.

  Sherpa summiters (revised list based on data from Great Eascapes Jangbu in July 2006)

  18 May.
     Kami Tshering, aka Ang Tshering, 1962, Pangboche, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X5
     Karma Rita, 21/1/76, Phortse, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2
     Nima Karma, 30/6/83, Phortse, 1st 8000er
     Dorje Lama Sherpa, 9/4/76, Bhakanje, Solu, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X2
     Sanduk Dorje Tamang, 31/5/83, Pangboche, 1st 8000er
     Dawa Nuru, Phortse [added by RAS]

  19 May
     Pa Nuru, aka Panuru, Pasang Nuru, 22/5/68, Phortse, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X3
     Mingma Tshering, aka Mingma Chhiring, 26/4/72, Phortse, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2

  20 May
     Mingma Tenzing, 1/6/86, Phortse, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1
     Dawa Nuru, aka Danuru, 26/10/78, Phortse, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X6, Manaslu X1

  23 May
     Phinzo, 23/4/71, Phortse, Everest X2, Manaslu X1
     Dawa Nuru, No. 9 again from ABC
     Mingma Ongel, aka Sonam Gyalzen, 27/3/78, Phortse, Everest X3
     Da Nuru, aka Danuru, Dawa Nuru/Norbu, 19/5/59, Phortse, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X3,
       Makalu X1
     Ang Karma, 25/7/74, Phortse, 1st 8000er
     Ang Namgyal, 21/6/80, Phortse, 1st 8000er

  24 May
     Chhepi Bhote, aka Chumbi/Chebi, 30/9/74, Honggaon, Hatiya-3, Makalu, 
       Makalu 10/5/04
     Tashi Tshering, 18/4/70, Pangboche, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X2
     Pemba Dorje, 1961, Pangboche, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2

  Oxygen:
    Members from C3 to top to C3 or C2
    Sherpas from C4 to top to C4

accidents:
  Gerstein suffered from stroke; Allen suffered from chest infection; Khumbu Icefall collapsed on Ang Phintso, aka Tenzing Phinzo (Phortse)


expid: EVER06116
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Robert Link
sponsor: Balsiger-Mountain Robert Link Everest Expedition
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2006-04-04
smtdate: 2006-05-21
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2006-05-22
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (by Balsiger, Justman and Lindaas)
campsites: BC(04/04,5349m),C1(15/04,6000m),C2(16/04,6550m),C3(18/05,7300m),C4(20/05,7950m),Smt(21/05)
achievment: Richards couple became second married couple to climb all seven summits
agency: Nomad Expeditions
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 at usual campsite
  C2 at usual campsite
  C3 at usual campsite
  C4 at South Col.

  Lindaas, Madison, Heidi Richards, Tapley Richards, Lhakpa Nuri, Ang Pemba, Dawa Tenzing, Chhiri and Wangchu Sherpa left C4 at 21:50 hours on May 20, summited at 06:00 hours on May 21, stayed on summit abut 15 minutes and descended to C4. Next day to C2. Balsiger, Justman and Link turned around from C3 on May 19 due bad weather conditions. 

  Balsiger, Justman and Link left BC on May 22, arrived Kathmandu on 23 and left the country on 24. Lindaas, Madison, Heidi Richards, and Tapley Richards returned to Kathmandu on May 25 and will leave on 26.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa, Namche-9, Yilajung, Everest X5
    Ang Pemba Sherpa, 11/9/84, Namche-9, Yilajung
    Dawa Tenzing Sherpa, 21/03/1986, Namche-5, Thamo/Tesho
    Chhiri Sherpa, 02/06/1973, Namche-9, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2
    Wangchu Sherpa, 02/02/1978, Taksindu-3


expid: EVER06117
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Jeffrey Warden
sponsor: Team No Limits to Everest (group of independents)
approach: Lukla->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-10
smtdate: 2006-05-18
termdate: 2006-05-21
campsites: BC(10/04,5300m),C1(25/04,6100m),C2(22/05,6500m),C3(18/05,7500m),xxx(18/05,7500m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  When Warden and Gyalzen got to C3 Warden felt very tired and decided he did not want to carry on. They descended to ABC the next day 19 May.

  Sherpa:
    Gyalzen Sherpa, 22/4/61, Yilajung, Namche-9, Dhaulagiri I 1997, Cho Oyu 2000


expid: EVER06118
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Guy Cotter
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Everest Expedition 2006
countries: Brazil, Ireland, UK, USA
bcdate: 2006-04-09
smtdate: 2006-05-19
smttime: 0940
termdate: 2006-05-28
campsites: BC(09/04,5350m),C1(18/04,6000m),C2(20/04,6400m),C3(04/05,7400m),C4(7900m,??/05),Smt(19/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Summit party left C4 at 11:45 pm of 18th; Heugh and Nima Dorje turned back at 8100m when Heugh ran out energy; all others to top from 9:40 am to 10:00 am and all to C4 by 4:45 pm. All to C2 that night, at 1:30-2:00 pm.

  Sherpa Summiters:
    Chuldim Dorje, 10/5/64, Pangboche, Everest X10, Broad Peak, Cho Oyu X3, 
      Gasherbrum II
    Dawa Jangbu/Da Jangbu, 22/4/73, Pangboche, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1
    Lhakpa Chhiri/Tshering, 11/11/74, Pangboche, Everest X2, K2 
    Lhakpa Dorje, 16/11/61, Gudel VDC, Everest X1, Makalu X3, Lhotse X1
    Pasang Bhote, 3/9/82, Hatiya, Makalu VDC, 1st 8000er
    Phu Tashi, 1973, Pangboche, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X2
    Tashi Thundu, 10/4/85, Khumjung, Everest X2

  Non-summit members:

  Cubitt went into Icefall once on 24 April, then no more motivation; had intended to go to C2 only.

  Heugh was in summit party of 19 May but turned back at 8100m when very tired with Nima Dorje (1974, Pangboche) and down to C4.

  Knoller went to C1 on 23 May, left expedition next day because of heart problem.

  Lindgren went to bottom of Lhotse Face, then abandoned climb; not strong enough; left expedition 5 May.

  Shorten went to C3, not strong enough to go higher, left expedition 14 May.

  Oxygen:
    Sherpas: in C4 to top to and in C4.
    Members: Knoller from C1 to base camp after attack of angina.
    Other summiters in C3 to top to C3.


expid: EVER06136
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kenji Kondo
sponsor: Adventure Guides Chomolongma Expedition 2006
bcdate: 2006-04-25
smtdate: 2006-05-17
smttime: 0740
termdate: 2006-05-21
campsites: BC(25/04),ABC(01/05,7100m),C1(14/05,7100m),C2(15/05,7660m),C3(16/05,8250m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  After reaching 6800m on 5th May, went down to Tingri to rest (esp Arayamo 70 year old). 

  Started up for top 11 May from BC. 12th from ABC. 13th stayed ABC, 14th to C1 and on to C3 on 16th. Left C3 for top at 10:40 pm 16th (NST) Yamada with Dawa Tenji; 11:40 pm Arayama, Ogawa, Pemba Gyalzen, Dawa Gyalzen and Tul Bahadur Tamang; at 12:15 Yoshida and Kondo but Yoshida got stomach ache and returned quickly to C3 with Nima Nurbu; after 3-4 hours sleep both to ABC at lunch time. Konde went on up at 12:30 with Pasang Kitar to top. On summit Yamada and Sherpa 7:40 am 17 May:; Konde at 8:00 am with Sherpa; 10:20 am Arayama and Ogawa and their 3 Sherpas. Arayama and Ogawa to C3 (too tired to go to C3 with their Sherpas); Yamada and Sherpa 2:30 pm to C2; Kondo to C1 3:30 pm because no space in C2.

  Oxygen: 
    Arayama and Ogawa from ABC all the time to top and back to and in ABC. 
    Yamada and Kondo in and from C1 to top to and in C2 and in C1 to ABC. 
    Sherpas in C3 to top to and in C3.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Dawa Tenji, 31/10/75, Beding, Everest X2
    Pemba Gyalzen/Gyalze, 11/7/69, Thame, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2
    Dawa Gyalzen/Galje, 14/3/79, Beding, Everest X1
    Pasang Kitar, 25/2/79, Beding, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X3
    Tul Bahadur Tamang, 30/8/66, Deusa, Solu, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X2, Dhaula X1

  Non-summiting:
    Nima Nurbu, aka Nima Nurbu Lama, 20/2/80, Thamiteng, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X2

achievment:
  Arayama oldest summiter by 3 days (Arayama 4 Oct 1935 to 17 May 2006 & Miura 14 Oct 1932 to 22 May 2003)


expid: EVER06120
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Singapore
leaders: Swee Chiow Khoo
sponsor: Everest Friendship 2006
countries: Malaysia
approach: Lukla->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-07
smtdate: 2006-05-23
termdate: 2006-05-25
campsites: BC(07/04,5300m),C1(16/04,6000m),C2(29/04,6300m),C3(03/05,7000m),C4(12/05,8000m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Himalayan Treasure
routememo:
  C4 to Khoo went up for acclimatization before summit push and stayed the night.

  Team left C4 at 8:45 am on 22 May. Weather was calm and clear, good views from the summit. After summiting they descended to C4 where they arrived at 10:30 am. Pasang and Danuru descended to C2 on 23 May. Remaining team descended to C2 on 24 May. 

  On ascent Loh developed "cortical blindness," which happens when body gets too much oxygen as it deprives the body of carbon dioxide. This happended on ascent at 8700m and Loh thinks he had about 20 percent of vision left. He carried on to summit, hanging on to Danuru Sherpa. Vision improved on summit and descent, probably due to less frantic breathing. His vision was restored completely when he arrived at C4. He was guided down to C4 by Pasang and Da Nurbu.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Dawa Nurbu/Danuru, 1977, Kharikhola, Everest X5
    Pasang Rinji, 28/11/76, Kharikhola, Everest X4
    Ang Phuri Gyalzen, 1971, Sikli, near Kharikhola, Everest 28/5/97
    Nga Temba, 1955, Sikli, Everest X10, Cho Oyu X1
    Doma Chhiri, 17/1/84, Sikli, Everest 16/5/04


expid: EVER06121
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Boguslaw Ogrodnik
sponsor: Falvit Everest Expedition 2006
countries: Russia
approach: Lukla->Chhukung->Island Peak->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-14
smtdate: 2006-05-18
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2006-05-21
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (10 April)
campsites: BC(14/04,5400m),C1(17/04,6100m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(28/04,7150m),C4(17/05,7950m),Smt(18/05)
achievment: Wojciechowska third (Polish?) female to summit
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  C4 at South Col.

  Adamski, Ermachek, Kobielski, Ogrodnik, Wojciechowska, Zaluski, Dorje Sherpa, Phur Tenji and Mingma Tshering Sherpa left C4 between 00:00-01:00 hours. First member reached summit at 07:30 hours and last one at 10:00 hours. The climbers stayed on summit on average of one hour. Descended to C4: Adamski reached at 11:00 hours and last one Ermachek at 17:00 hours. Next day everybody descended to C2. 

  Ahead of this team there were some Koreans and members of other expeditions on the summit. Behind the team among others was a Korean woman who got frostbitten fingers. Ermachek met Brazilian climber Negrete on summit from north side. Negrete died at C3 on north side. Weather was good but on descending it was very windy. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on May 24 and will leave on 26. 

  Member Magrel stayed in BC for one day and left for home; it was enough for him.

  Oxygen used: 
    Kobielski, Ogrodnik, Wojchiechowska and Zaluski used from C3 to summit to C4
    Adamski and Ermatchek used from C4 to summit to C4 including Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Dorje Sherpa, aka "Big Dorje", 1/10/65, Thamo, Everest X11
    Phur Tenji, 23/1/75, Phurte, Namche-4, 1st 8000er
    Mingma Tshering, 18/5/75, Namche Bazar, Everest 18/5/04

  Source: Govinda of Cho Oyu treks and Miss Ben.


expid: EVER06122
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Han Wang-Yong
sponsor: Han's Clean Mountain Expedition to Everest
countries: Austria, France
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2006-04-30
smtdate: 2006-05-09
termdate: 2006-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m (S Col cleaning expedition only)
campsites: BC(30/04,5400m),C1(03/05,6100m),C2(04/05,6400m),C3(06/05,7300m),C4(09/05,7900m),xxx(16/05,7900m)
agency: Korean Treks & Expeditions
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 at top of Ice Fall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 at South Col (Sherpas only)
  High point at C4.

  The South Col cleaning team collected garbage of approximately 1300 kgs of which 800 kg was delivered to SSPC which charged the expedition team Rs 30 per kg. Han was surprised to pay for the garbage which does not belong to the expedition. SSPC did not inform Han about the charges earlier. The expedition returned to Kathmandu on May 25 and will leave on 29th.

  Han's Cleaning Expedition 2006 (Korea)

  Name of Sherpas who reached 7900m
    Dawa Onchu Sherpa, 17/12/72, Everest X2, Kangch X3, Broad Pk X1, GI & GII X1 each
    Pema Tshering Sherpa, 1/6/70, Everest X2, Dhaulagiri X1, GI & GII X1 each
    Chombi Sherpa, 21/4/66, no 8000ers
    Pasang Gelji/Gelzen Sherpa, 4/7/67, Cho Oyu X1 
    Urkien Chumbi Sherpa, 21/6/70

  All five Sherpas are from Makalu-9, Sankhuwasabha


expid: EVER06123
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Hwang Soon-Kwang
sponsor: Korean Dream Everest Expedition 2006
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2006-04-05
smtdate: 2006-05-18
smttime: 0910
termdate: 2006-05-03
campsites: BC(05/04,5400m),C1(23/04,6100m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(04/05,7200m),C4(17/05,8000m),Smt(18/05)
accidents: Lee Se-Jung said there was no accident; Kwak frostbitten
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C4 at South Col.

  Kwak, Lee Se-Jung, Park, Lhakpa Chhiri and Temba Sherpa left C4 at 23:00 hours on May 17, summited at 09:10 hours on May 18, stayed on summit about an hour, descended to C4 at 17:00 hours next day to C2. Kwak summited at about 12:00 hours, returned to C4 at about 19:00 hours. It was very windy. About 10 people were ahead of this team and may be about 40 people were behind them. The team returned to Kathmandu on May 25 and will leave on 29.

  Accident: The members of Korean Chung-Dong Expedition found Kwak who was injured and hands were frostbitten. Also the members found Lee Sang-Bae frostbitten and rescued both climbers to Chung-Dong camp at South Col. According to a write-up posted on Mounteverest.net website on June 7, 2006 by HRA Everest BC clinic Dr. Luanne Freer, Kwak fell down 300m near the balcony (8600m). Kwak was minimally injured in the fall, but suffered severe frostbite. She was rescued and brought down to C2 and to BC on May 20. Kwak was evacuated by helicopter on May 21.
  The leader of Chung-Dong Expedition Shin said Kwak left Nepal on May 23. No information available about another member Lee Sang-Bae.

  Lhakpa Tshering and Temba Sherpa both are from Khumjung; Lee Se-Jung said Lhakpa had summited Everest twice.

  The six-member Korean Dream Everest may not be a one expedition. Like the other Dream Teams of Asian Trekking, it may also be a collection of independent climbers or of small groups.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Lhakpa Tshering/Chiring, 17/7/76, Khumjung, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1, Lhotse X1
    Temba Sherpa, 25/6/78, Khumjung, 1st 8000er
    Tenzing Dorje, 19/9/70, Phortse, Everest South 21/5/2000


  Email from Luanne Freer - 25 July 2006

  I do not know all of the details, but what I recall is that Ms. Kwak did indeed summit, that she fell somewhere around the balcony and tumbled 300m. The visibility was poor due to bad weather and she laid out for 6-1/2 hours until found by Sherpa from another expedition. A group of Sherpas from different expeditions carried her down from C4 and various members from other expeditions helped to care for her at C2 under my radio direction. She spent one night in our EBC hospital and was flown out by helicopter the following day. 


  Dawa Ongchu on Miss Jeong-Hye Kwak

  Dawa said that Kwak told him that while descending from the summit of Everest on May 18, she met her climbing companion Sang-Bae Lee at Balcony. Lee asked Kwak to climb again with him to summit but she was not ready to do that. While the two Koreans were having argument their two Sherpas left them as their hands started getting cold. Kwak then started descending and slipped from a place near to the balcony (8600m) aout 500m below. On the fall Kwak lost her gloves, goggles, headlight and laid almost unconscious till the Sherpas of Korean Chung-Dong 100th Anniversary Expedition (led by Oh Seong-Hoan - Asian Trek). From C3 to BC, Kwak was carried in a stretcher by the Sherpas of Han's cleaning expedition (Korean Treks and Expedition). She spent a night at C2. Dawa said that both of her hands and feet were black and nose and cheeks were also badly frostbitten. But she could talk. She was taken to Kathmandu by helicopter after treatment at EBC probably on May 22.


expid: EVER06124
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Juan Antonio Olivieri
sponsor: Mallorca a Dalt de Tot
approach: Lukla->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-13
smtdate: 2006-05-18
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2006-05-22
campsites: BC(13/04,5300m),C1(23/04,6100m),C2(29/04,6400m),C3(03/05,7100m),C4(17/05,7900m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Rai)
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 at usual campsite
  C2 at usual campsite
  C3 at usual campsite
  C4 at South Col.

  Calafat, Olivieri, Pemba Rinji, Nima Kanchha and Ang Pemba Sherpa left C4 at 2230 hours and Perez Alvarez at 23:30 hours on May 17. Calafat reached summit about 08:00 hours of 18 and stayed on summit about 30 minutes. Olivieri reached summit at 08:15 hours and stayed on summit for 20 minutes. Perez Alvarez reached summit at 09:00 hours and stayed on summit about 30 minutes. All members and Sherpas descended to C4 and sleep. Summit day weather was very good, no wind, no clouds and not cold. Strong wind started near to Balcony while descending. Diego (Spanish) came from north side and some Sherpas while the expedition members were on summit. There were about six people on the summit and some 20 people behind the expedition team. Member Quetglas was together with other members at C4 but did not attempt for summit due to backache. The members and Sherpas descended to C2 on 19 and on 20 to BC. The team returned to Kathmandu on May 25 an trying to leave on 29 or 31.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Rinji, 3/10/1970, Jubing-1, Kharikhola
    Nima Kanchha Sherpa, 19/07/1975, Namche-6, Pare, 1st 8000er
    Ang Pemba Sherpa, 25/07/1978, Namche-7, Thami

  (Sherpa information from Thamserku, climbing status from Leader Olivieri)


expid: EVER06135
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: David Sharp
sponsor: Sharp 2006 Everest Expedition
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-05
smtdate: 2006-05-15
termdate: 2006-05-15
termnote: Abandoned at 8500m due to death of climber
campsites: BC(05/04,5200m),ABC(13/04,6400m),C1(19/04,7100m),C2(12?/05,7700m),C3(13?/05,8300m),xxx(15/05,8500m)
accidents: Sharp frozen to death in the rock cave at 8500m on May 15
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Notes about David Sharp, by E. Hawley - 13 Sept 2006 

  According to Nawang Tenzing Sherpa, the climbing Sherpa of Malaysian climber Ravi Tharumalingam, David Sharp left C1 for higher camps on May 12 which is confirmed by Tharumalingam in his email. Apparently, Sharp started his summit attempt alone from C3 on May 14 and he ran out of oxygen and was found sitting helpless at 8400m later that night. The Turkish expedition leader Pocan wrote in his email reply to my inquiry about Sharp that the first group of his expedition which left C3 at 10:30 pm NST on May 14, met Sharp around midnight. The group saw him sitting in front of the cave (8400m) next to the dead Indian climber. One of the Sherpas (Nima?) of the group told Sharp not to sit but to go, but he refused the suggestion with body language. The group was not aware whether Sharp was going up or down. They assumed that he was resting on the way as many others do. Two members of the expedition Girgin and Mavis stated later that they did not observe anything strange about Sharp. The second group of the Turkish expedition saw Sharp about 20 minutes later and at that time he was laying down motionless just next to the Indian body. The third group also saw Sharp motionless and they thought he was another dead body. Just before the sunrise one of the Turkish members got sick at 8600m and had to rescued down by the third group while the other members continued their climb. While descending Pocan noticed Sharp's arm moving. Pocan and Mavis made Sharp sit upright and tried to give him some hot drink but he could not drink it. Sharp's nose was completely frozen deep inside and his hand too was frozen. He was able to open his eyes but could not say anything. His oxygen gauge was on "0". Pocan's oxygen too was running out and decided to go down thinking to bring another oxygen cylinder from their Sherpas but at the same time the two members had to help Sherpas rescuing down the sick member. Then, Pocan radioed the members returning from summit about Sharp. Mrs. Mavis descending from summit with her Sherpa (Nima), also tried to help Sharp by giving him oxygen but it did not help him. Sharp's oxygen mask was completely covered with ice. They cleaned it up and tried to give oxygen but it did not work. Then, due to their limited oxygen they too left Sharp. Pocan said that when rest of his team left cave, Sharp was still alive. Buyukatalay, Lhakpa and one Sherpa from Russell Brice's expedition (most probably one of Mark Inglis' Sherpas) tried to make Sharp move. Russell Brice's Sherpa had extra oxygen that they used it to make him awake. But, those also did not help to make him walk. They took him out of the cave to the sun to try to make him walk. Lhakpa massaged his body to provide circulation. Buyukatalay radioed Pocan then he asked them to descend. After that Pocan asked for help over the radio many times but he did not get any response. Pocan said that the four Tibetan guides of the Chinese expedition who came to help rescue of his sick member were sent to help Sharp but they could not reach the cave because of tiredness. Pocan wrote in his email that at that point he realized the truth that they had lost another climber on Everest. He further added that Sharp was hardly breathing; he was unconscious, had serious frostbites and had gone through hypothermic phase.

  The Malaysian climber Tharumalingam in his email of Aug 3, 2006 wrote that he was the last person to leave Sharp and he was alive. Tharumalingam added that he (Sharp) was a very detailed person so he believes that he (Sharp) was a very detailed person, so he believes that he (Sharp) reached the summit on 14th.


  Phil Crampton - 31 Aug 2006  

  Sharp told Crampton at Nyalam on the way to base camp and again at C1 at North Col on 21 April that he was sure he would reach the summit because he had two bottles of oxygen this time (he had none when he attempted Everest the previous time). Sharp left a tent at the Col that day but did not sleep there that night. Sharp, a teacher, looked frail. He used the ropes fixed by others.


  Serhan Pocan - 4 August 2006

  About David Sharp:

  At our first attempt of 15th of May our team was 7 climbers and nine Sherpas, rest 3 team members turned back to ABC as they had some coughing problems.

  We left 8300m (C3) at 10:30 pm (NST). Bora and I were trying to summit without oxygen at the beginning. Rest five were using oxygen. So Bora and I were slow and left apart from the team.

  Our front group was not moving together also. Some climbed faster than the others. The first group met David Sharp around midnight. They saw him sitting in front of the cave in front of the dead Indian climber. Eylem Elif Mavis, Serkan Girgin and two Sherpas were the first group. One of the Sherpas spoke to him and told him not to sit but to go. But he refused the suggestion with body language. They were not aware that he was going up or down and they assumed that he was resting on the way as many others do. Elif and Serkan stated later that they did not observe anything strange about him.

  The next group, 3 climbers and 4 Sherpas of our team, met David about 20 minutes later. That time David was lying down just next to the Indian body. He was not moving. They all thought he was a dead body just like Indian, none of them knew the exact number of the bodies on the route.

  At the back side of our group we were: 3 Sherpas, Bora and I am. David was still laying. I showed his new boots to Sherpas. Their command was like "he was a new dead body." They thought: we were going to learn who he was when we were back in ABC. We completely had no doubt. He was a dead body for us while we were climbing up.

  Just before the sunrise we (Bora and I am) got a radio message about the problem Burcak faced. At that time we both turned to oxygen. I skip the details about the Burcak's (my wife) case. Details are available on the web site (www.everest2006.org). I first send a radio message to the rest of our team that we cancelled the climb and I call all my 4 friends back to 8600m. But soon after we realised that Bora, me and 2 Sherpas were enough to evacuate Burcak. Burcak was getting better. So we changed the decision. The first four and Sherpas proceed to the summit. Bora, me, Burcak and 2 Sherpas began descending to 8300m.

  When we came to the cave on the way back, it was about 7:00 am. Burcak was belayed from both back and front. I was coming from back. I was really shocked at that moment, because I immediately realised that David's arm moved. I really got afraid. Burcak was ok at that moment. And two Sherpas were enough to assist her to go down. So Bora and I left our group and stayed with David. We made him upright. Tried to give him some hot drink but he couldn't drink it. His nose was completely frosen deep inside. His hand was frosen as a rock also. He was able to open his eyes but couldn't say anything. We tried to find out who he is. I checked his oxygen. The gauge was '0'. At that moment I realised that Bora and I were using oxygen for a very long time. I checked Bora's gauge. It was above '0'. The only way was to catch the Sherpas with Burcak. Bora stayed with David trying to help him drink and move. I went down to change my tube and bring a new one to Bora. When I met the Sherpas they were busy with Burcak. Burcak was still dizzy, and this was causing big problems at that altitude and at that narrow path. Sherpas needed our help. So I first called Bora to assist Burcak's evacuation, then radioed the friends coming back from the summit and informed them about David. Bora and I proceed to go down with Burcak and the Sherpas.

  Our next group down on the way was Elif and her Sherpa Nima. They also tried to help David. Because of their limited oxygen they too also left David.

  When rest of our team arrived to cave, David was still laying down. Soner [Buyukatalay], Lhakpa and one Sherpa from Russell Brice expedition (most probably one of Mark Inglis' Sherpas) tried to make David move. Russell Brice's Sherpa had an extra oxygen they used to make him awake. But those also didn't help to make him walk. They took him out of the cave to the sun to make him walk. Lhakpa Sherpa massaged all his body to provide circulation.

  When Soner informed me over radio, I realised that they have nothing to do more. And I called him down.

  After that I asked for help over the radio (the general frequency 144.5) many many times. I did not get any response.

  When we were planning the evacuation of Burcak we had asked for help from the Chinese expedition. 4 Tibetan guides were on the way to us. We decided to canalise them to David. But unfortunately 2 of them could only reach about 7900m and the other 2 only 8300m. They were very tired as they summited previous day.

  At that point I realised the truth that we had lost another climber on Everest. David was hardly breathing, he was unconscious, had serious frostbites and had gone through a hypothermic phase. This was the case of the casualty, for the rescue part; there was no extra oxygen left, seemed no possibility to receive more Sherpas for help, my team was occupied with Burcak's case (although they all tried to help David as far as they could) and I couldn't reach the other teams over the radio.

  It was about 11:00 am when I announced my team that there weren't anything left do do for the casualty.


  Ravi Tharumalingam - 4 August 2006

  It is difficult if David reached the summit or not. He went for the summit on 14th and I went up on 15th. When I saw him, he was still alive and could not communicate or not responding. I was the last person to go down on 15th and he was still alive. He was a very determined person and very confident. He shared many infor and tips and I really appreciate the help. He was a very detailed person, so I believe he reached the summit on 14th.

  Maybe something happen on the way down.


  Russell Brice - 1 June 2006 

  Sharp was seen sitting on top of the body of an Indian who died in shallow cave in 1996. The altitude was about 8500m, below the First Step. Some who passed him saw him with a rucksack between his legs and with no gloves on, and they thought he was changing oxygen bottles. Others never saw him in the dark, or saw him immobile and thought he was the well-known dead Indian's body. Brice's Sherpa, Phurba, on 15 May while coming down from the summit, saw Sharp and later reported to Brice that Sharp was still alive but arms frozen to the elbows and legs frozen to the knees, whihc meant he couldn't move; he was unconscious, had no gloves on, and his jacket was open. Phurba, some other Sherpas, and the Turkish team's leader moved him one meter out of the cave to get him into the sun, but he was not conscious of how they were trying to help him.


