# exped

expid: BARU89101
peakid: BARU
year: 1989
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Andrew Wigley
sponsor: British Baruntse Expedition
approach: Via Arun
bcdate: 1989-04-14
smtdate: 1989-05-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6860m due to route risk problem and little time left
campsites: BC(14/04,5200m),ABC(19/04,5300m),C1(24/04,6140m),C2(01/05,6380m),xxx(03/05,6860m)
accidents: None
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC  west-northwest of Barun Pokhari
  ABC on moraine northeast of Sherpani Col
  C1  between points 6260m & 6480m on Schneider map
  C2  at snowhole in crevasse in flat snowfield before South Ridge really starts.

  Had biv site before C1. On 3 May made summit bid from C2. Left at 5:00 am reached high point at 11:30 am. Ridge there started narrowing greatly with soft snow on one side and heavy cornices on other, so decided not to risk this section and turned back. Possible alternative routes around this but didn't feel they had time to try. Had spent more time on approach march than expected.


expid: JANU89101
peakid: JANU
year: 1989
route1: N Face (direct)
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Tomo Cesen
sponsor: Yugoslav Jannu Expedition
ascent1: 19th
bcdate: 1989-04-22
smtdate: 1989-04-28
smttime: 1530
termdate: 1989-04-30
othersmts: Climbed on Merra (for acclimatization)
campsites: BC(22/04,4700m),Smt(28/04)
accidents: None
achievment: 1st solo ascent
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC at Jannu Glacier west-northwest of peak.

  Did same acclimatization climbing on Merra Peak and to see 1st part of route, which is dangerous icefall not so difficult. Started 27th at mid-day with Kokalj to 5000m which is beginning of Jannu Glacier: together 1-1/2 hours walking and from there Kokalj did filming of Cesen's climb. Cesen began climb of face at 4:30-5:00 pm and then "I climbed all the way during the afternoon and during the night." In morning hours when sun is on lower part of face about 6700m is continuous fall of stones and ice pieces so climbed at night. Had some moonlight from very early morning. Saw very steep places here (70 degrees) with difficult rock. Then at about 6700m very steep ice and difficult rocks with very thin ice. Upper part crazy: Kokalj never climbed such difficulty in mountains and steep at altitude - cannot see far ahead in steep gully. "Crazy" part starts above 6800m. Rested occasionally for 15 minutes only. If not enough ice it would not be possible to climb this route - good rock (granite). Reached top in entire climb in good weather and no wind problem (south side had bad cloud and wind that day). But in afternoon a storm came up with storm and pretty strong wind. Descended Japanese route and made biv in upper seracs at about 6800-6900m. Was dark when reached biv point at 9:00-10:00 pm. 4 hours storm cleared during night. Started descent about 2:00 am 29th and reached BC at 12:00-1:00 pm of 29th when was very tired (took 4-5 hours to cover descent of 2 hours usually).

  "I am satisfied." "I like to climb solo - it's quicker and there are fewer problems." Cesen may try solo ascent of Lhotse South Face next year or later.

  Messner: "only quite safe line, a beautiful line" - the best of this season.


  Spring 2000:

  1999 Slovenian Dhaulagiri I expedition and Slovenian Lhotse expedition of Spr 2000 said Cesen's claim to Jannu summit is doubted since his Lhotse South Face claim totally discredited. 

  Australian-New Zealand Jannu leader and other member 5th June said: They don't believe Cesen's claim because he had not enough acclimatization and time he gives for his ascent is not enough. In his report to AAJ, Cesen skims over many important details, especially very steep rock from 6900-7500m, which is very difficult technically.


  Jannu - Spring 1989 by Tomo Cesen

  For almost a year before setting out, my mind had been totally preoccupied with thoughts of Jannu. After all, its North Face is one of the most difficult in the world.

  We established BC on 22nd April, at 4600m at the edge of the Khumbakarna glacier. The following day after breakfast, Jani and I approached the foot of the face. Its upper part was always clearly visible from BC, but the lower part presented a puzzle which I wanted to solve as soon as possible. The start of my route didn't look too encouraging. The face started with an icefall which, from our side of the glacier, looked like a mound of ice cubes threatening to collapse at any moment. I was, however more interested in the upper part of the face, where the eye was drawn to ice gullies and smooth, overhanging granite walls, interspersed with giant roofs - a fantastic sight. It soon became clear to me that I would need to change my initial strategy for tackling this upper part of the face but I knew before I left that it would be practically impossible to plan an exact route. The threat from falling seracs or from avalanches was not too great but the whistling of ice blocks and rocks provided convincing proof that the face was extremely dangerous. Most of this ammunition funnelled into couloir at the bottom of the middle part of the face. I needed little convincing to climb this section at night.

  At dawn on the 27th April I was not over enthusiastic about the weather. It was cloudy. However, I still had half a day to prepare my equipment. We were having lunch when the sun rays eventually pierced the clouds. Its interesting how quickly one's mood can change. Around midday I left with Jani, who wanted to accompany me to the start of the glacier. The weather was fantastic and my mood matched it, but I was aware that the waiting would be hard for Jani, perhaps more difficult in some ways that what I was setting out on.

  Alone on the glacier I felt a sense of exhilaration. This was good sign that I was already in control. I hung the pitons and a spare blade for the ice axe on my harness, put crampons on my feet and took the ice axes in my hands. I took some rope and of course a helmet but my rucksack contained only spare clothing, gloves, glasses, food and drink, sleeping bag and a biv sac; not much gear. I mused that to climb the North Face of Jannu in this way would be, if nothing else, a challenge.

  After some 200m of initial warming up I came to the first ten-metre section of vertical ice. Four hours later the easier, lower part of the face was behind me so I took a ten minute rest. The valley below was already in darkness, but up here the light was still good despite the late hour. Thankfully the steady barrage of falling rock and ice began to ease off. Climbing this section of the face during the day would have been suicidal, but with the night came safety. The next 200 metres or so were very difficult; cramponing up a 70 to 75-degree couloir, sometimes on rock, sometimes on ice. At that point it slowly began to dawn on me what might be waiting above.

  The new day came as I reached the end of the ice field. From here I had to move right to the next ice field which was separated from a final one by the first really problematic part of the route. Very steep ice and smooth granite slabs followed one after the other. I used the seracs at the beginning of the middle ice field to orientate myself on the face. There would be no possibility of protection as there were no cracks at all in the rock. I was glad to finally reach steep ice gully which led to the less steep ice field below some huge seracs, where I could take my next short rest.

  A short rock step separated me from the final part of the face. Ice, rock, ice again followed by more granite slabs. The exit from this particular section was something special. A gently sloping slab barred the way to the last ice field and the vertical exit from the face. Without crampons and gloves, and some 6000 metres lower this would have been quite easy, but here it was another matter. I couldn't remove my crampons and besides, double plastic boots are not best suited to friction climbing. For a while I leaned unhappily with my hands on the slab and my crampons dug into the thin ice below. In order to gain better support for the tip of my crampons I carefully chipped at some smal crystals of ice with my axe. Everything went very slowly. I can hardly describe the feeling of relief at the top of the slab when my ice axe at last hit ice. Definitely not a pitch for the faint-hearted. For a while I stared upwards and took in an unbelievable view. Now at 7000m, I fully  realised what lay in store for me. This was the time to draw on those psychological reserves that I had trained for. There was no way back.

  Above lay a vertical gully lined with thin ice, sometimes interspersed with a few metres of bare rock. The rock appeared good, although I didn't relish the prospect of climbing it in crampons.

  The world around me receded. I became lost in total concentration: body and mind focussed; strength and balance pushed to the limit.

  Now facing me was a series of near vertical granite slabs, each 30 to 40 metres high and covered with a 10 centimetre veneer of ice. In the thin air I couldn't climb these slabs without rest, and best described as hanging on my ice axe - was not pleasant. There were at least ten of these giant ice covered steps on this part of the face. The problem was that there were some easier options but they were not visible from below. This meant that I could only guess at the best route upwards. I was forced to use pitons on four occasions, but in the wide cracks I just had to climb free in crampons. There was either not enough space to remove them, or it would have been too dangerous. Fortunately the cracks sometimes allowed me to jam in a boot, relax the tension in my arms and take a short rest.

  At the end of the rock there was always ice: hard black, green sometimes crumbling, but always very steep. At one point I had to pendulum a narrow ice gully had lost itself in blank granite slabs, with vertical rock above, left and right. I noticed a tiny crack above me and climbed slowly and carefully almost to the tip of this fragile ice tongue, taking care not to break it. I hammered in a piton, threaded the rope, descended a litte and started to swing, thus managing to reach the continuation of the gully to the left.

  I was slowly approaching the summit ridge, despite extremely difficult sections which dogged my steps right to the last moment. Suddenly the end came as I almost stumbled onto the soft snow of the ridge. Although the summit of Jannu was very close, and the ridge leading to it presented no difficulties, I felt drained and told myself and told myself I had enough of this kind of torture. The weather, meanwhile, was deteriorating and it was 3:30 pm before I reached the top. To the south was a grey sea of cloud. The weather usually worsens in the afternoons so I needed to descend as far as quickly as possible.

  A proper storm was gathering as I roped down onto the upper ice field of the Japanese route. I did not want to sit out in the middle of the a 55-60 degree ice field, but the heavy snowfall and strong cold winds soon forced me to seek temporary safety in a crevasse among the seracs.

  That endless biv was one of chattering teeth and quivering muscles: of constant checking my watch and hoping that the weather pattern of the last few days would prevail. Howling winds swept snowflakes in all directions: fog, darkness.

  In the middle of the night the storm finally began to abate so I decided to continue down immediately. From the crevasse I descended among the seracs for about 100m. It was the wrong way. To continue meant tackling a 15m vertical ice wall. I could not face retracing my steps, so I had no choice but to chisel an ice mushroom on the lip of the serac and abseil. In daylight I might have sought a better route but in the darkness I took the most direct line. Among the lower seracs I zig-zagged left and right in order to stay among them for as long as possible, and on the final section to the plateau I used the rope a few more times.

  The ice fall in the jumbled mess of the Khumbakarna Glacier was a mere formality. I chose a much easier route than for my ascent, albeit a more dangerous one, but I told myself that if the seracs hadn't collapsed for a whole week, they'd last another hour or two. Then it was over. There was no more danger. The way ahead was easier. My concentration lapsed. My walk across the glacier resembled the walk of a drunk returning home from a night out.

  Half way from BC Jani met me, smiling broadly. It had taken me 5 hours to reach BC from the foot of the face, where normally it would have taken just two. I was exhausted. After three days of great effort and with only a little food, my stomach was not ready for solids, so that afternoon we had a liquid feast and some of us suffered as a result - but that another story.

  Some people considered that the North Face Jannu could not be climbed in the way I chose, what I was more confident than most that I would succeed. However, Jannu is only a part of what I believe in.


  Tomaz Humar - 7 Nov 2006

  Tomaz Humar's comments about Tomo Cesen's claimed ascent via the South Face: "It is possible Tomo did make the summit.... I don't say he did, but I don't say he didn't." When people can't do something themselves, they say no one can. Humar has seen the South Face, and he thinks Cesen could have gone all the way to the top alone. He was a very strong climber. Lhotse's South Face is not so difficult as Jannu's North Face, which Cesen also said he soloed. Humar also has seen Jannu's North Face and thinks it is possible that he summited. Tomaz also believes that the Jannu face is more difficult because of the greater danger of falling rock on the face.

  At the end of the rock there was always ice: hard black, green sometimes crumbling, but always very steep. At one point I had to pendulum a narrow ice gully had lost itself in blank granite slabs, with vertical rock above me and climed slowly and carefully almost to the tip of this fragile ice tongue, taking care not to break it. I hammered in a piton, threaded the rope, descended a little and started to swing, thus managing to reach the continuation of the ice gully to the left.

  I was slowly approaching the summit ridge, despite extremely difficult sections which dogged my steps right to the last moment. Suddenly the end came as I almosst stumbled onto the soft snow of the ridge. Although the summit of Jannu was very close, and the ridge leading to it presented no technical difficulties. I felt drained and told myself I'd had enough of this kind of torture. The weather, meanwhile, was deteriorating and it was 3:30 p.m before I reached the top. To the south was a grey sea of cloud. The weather usually worsens in the afternoons so I needed to descend as far and as quickly as possible.

  A proper storm was gathering as I roped down onto the upper icefield of the Japanese Route. I did not want to sit out in the middle of a 55-60 degree icefield, but the heavy snowfall and strong cold winds soon forced me to seek temporary safety in a crevasse among the seracs. That endless bivouac was one of chattering teeth and quivering muscles; of constantly checking my watch and hoping that the weather  pattern of the last few days would prevail. Howling winds swept snowflakes in all directions: fog, darkness.
  I felt it had all gone on far too long.

  In the middle of the night the storm finally began to abate so I decide to continue down immediately. From the crevasse I descended among the seracs for about 100 metres. It was the wrong way. To continue meant tackling a 15 metre vertical ice wall. I could not face retracing my steps, so I had no choice but to chisel an ice mushroom on the lip of the serac and abseil. In daylight I might have sought a better route but in the darkness I took the most direct line. Among the lower seracs I zig-zagged left and right in order to stay among them for as long as possible, and on the final section to the plateau I used the rope a few more times.

  The ice fall in the jumbled mess of the Khumbakarna glacier was a mere formality. I chose a much easier route than for my ascent, albeit a more dangerous one, but I told myself that if the seracs hadn't collapsed for a whole week, they'd last another hour or two. Then it was over. There was no more danger. The way ahead was easier. My concentration lapsed. My walk across the glacier resembled the walk of drunk returning home from a night out.

  Halfway from Base Camp Jami met me smiling broadly. It had taken me 5 hours to reach BC from the foot of the face, where normally it would have taken just two. I was exhausted. After three days of great effort and with only a little food, my stomach was not ready for solids, so that afternoon we had a liquid feast and some of us suffered as a result - but that is another story.

  Some people considered that the North Face of Jannu could not be climbed in the way I chose, but I was more confident than most.


expid: KANG89102
peakid: KANG
year: 1989
route1: N Face-N Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Lou Whittaker
sponsor: 1989 American Kangchenjunga Expedition
ascent1: 34th,35th
countries: Indonesia
bcdate: 1989-04-10
smtdate: 1989-05-18
termdate: 1989-05-25
accidents: None
agency: Mountain Adventure
campsites:
  BC(06,10/04,5030m),C1(13/04,5210m),C2(15/04,5850m),C3(23/04,6550m),C4(08/05,7310m),C5(17/05,7925m),Smt(18,21/05)

routememo:
  BC at Pangpema
  C1 on glacier in center of it
  C2 at west cliff of NE Ridge under North Col
  C3 on North Face
  C4 on North Ridge
  C5 on North Face.

  Essentially Roskelley and Warth route. Went to N Col and then cut across face. Sherpas didn't want to go to top because dangerous and technically difficult. Left BC 25 May, the day big cyclone storm started. Indonesians got to C2 only, had been on trip so training exercise. Used 1 tank for each summit team. Was no more difficult then expected. 6 men of Rainier Guide Service on top is good record for service.

  Wickwire and Roskelley came late and left early, were at and above BC only 2 weeks. Wickwire said he was too old for such a big mountain, Roskelley didn't like climbing with Sherpas.

  26 March 97 - Viesturs said the team's summiters did not go to the very summit out of respect for its being sacred - stopped few meters below. Could easily have gone to highest point in lovely weather and good health. Spent an hour on top enjoying view.


expid: KANG89101
peakid: KANG
year: 1989
route1: SW Face
route2: From Yalung Kang up; to Central and S Smts down
route3: SW Face up; S Ridge-SW side down
route4: South/Central Smts-S Ridge up; Yalung Kang down
nation: USSR
leaders: Eduard Myslovsky
sponsor: Soviet Expedition to Kangchenjunga Massif
ascent1: 27th-29th,33rd
ascent2: 30th
ascent3: 31st
ascent4: 32nd
bcdate: 1989-03-09
smtdate: 1989-04-09
smttime: 1530
accidents: None
othersmts:
  Climbed/traversed other Kangchenjunga summits (KANC-891-01, KANS-891-01) and Yalung Kang (YALU-891-01)

campsites:
  BC(09/03,5350m),C1(16/03,6150m),C2(18/03,6450m),C3(24/03,7250m),C4(07/04,7650m),C5(08/04,8200m),Smt(09,16,29/04,01,03/05)

routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C3 at Great Shelf.

  1st Main Smmit team went to C4 on 7th but slept in C4 and then to C5 on 8th and to top on 9th and back to sleep in C4. On top 3:30-4:00 found striped stick on top and autographed it. 

  1st Central Summit group slept in C3 14th and left C3 at 4:30 am, dropped loads at C5 at 1:15 pm and on top at 5:30 pm. Returned C4 8:00 pm. 15th-16th to C3. 17th carried loads to South route C4 and down to BC same day.

  1st South Summit group: from C5 on 15th at 7:30 am to 8:15 am - much difficult climbing on new route. On top 2:40 pm till 3:10 pm. Left full and empty oxygen bottles and flags. Down to C3. 

  2nd Main Summit group from C4 on 16th at 8:00 am and at 2:00 pm in C5 and on top 5:30-5:45 pm. Slept in C5 except 2 cameramen to C4 (Moiseev and Troshchinenko).

  2nd South Summit group: from C5 on 17th from 9:30 to 10:30 am (in intervals so as not to send stones falling on those below). On top 1:30-2:30 pm and in C3 8:00 pm.

  29 April Central and Main Summits: started from C5 which they had to repair day before (28th) and 3 on central at 11:30 am while others moved more slowly without oxygen. All 5 started for Col between Central and Main Summits. On Main top all 5 at 2:20 pm and at 3:35 pm last one left main top. Back in C3 at 8:00 pm. All used oxygen part or all of this day, Khabibulin only for last 15 minutes.

  Yalung Kang traverse group of Boukreev, Bershov, Vinogradski, Pogorelov and Turkevich left C5 on 30th (last one at 8:30) and 11:55 am on top and 12:25 began descent. In C5 at 2 pm. All on oxygen. Support group from C4 at 6:00 am, carried oxygen to C5; 3 of them (Souviga, Khrishchati and Shinov) without oxygen on top by 3:45. All immediately down to C4 where arrived 7:00 to 8:00 pm. Shinov and Dedi down to BC.

  Traverse from West to South: had begun on 30th April with ascent of Yalung Kang and returned to C5 that afternoon. 1 May from C5 at 8:00 am and at 10:10 am were on Main Summit. Left Main Summit 11:10 am and were on Central Summit at 12:35 pm and left it at 12:50 pm. Climbed on the ridge, which was rather easy, without problems. On saddle between Central and South Summits at 2:10 pm met other traverse group. Reached South Summit at 2:45 pm. At 3:00 pm left South Summit and cleared C5 and C4 and arrived C3 at 7:00 pm. Entire climb on 1 May with oxygen. Had slept on oxygen previous night and used 2 bottles each on 1 May.

  Traverse from West C4 to Main summit: 1 May Arsentiev, Klinetski, Souviga and Khrishchati (Souviga and Khrishchati without oxygen). Started 8:00 am from West C4, on Main summit at 4:30 pm to 5:30 pm and waited there for South-West traverse party. Met this party at main summit at 5:40 pm. Then was decided group from West C4 would go to Central C4 West were in Central C5 at 7:00 pm and slept there. 2 May they cleared Central C5 and C4 and brought it to C3 (were in BC at 11:00 pm ) not enough fuel in C3 to stay there).

  Traverse South to West: 1 May started from South C5 from 8:40 and 9:15 am. Elagin, Koroteev, Luniakov, Balyberdin and Khalitov (the last three used no oxygen to South Summit, Khalitov used none all the way to saddle between South and Central Summits). Arrived South Summit 12:10 to 1:35 (Balyberdin was last). At 2:10 pm met West-South traverse group. At Central Summit 3:40 pm and left it at 3:50 pm for Main Summit which reached 5:40 to 6:00 pm. Down to West C5 at 8:00 pm. 2 May from C5 at 12 noon for Yalung Kang summit. All 5 used oxygen. On top 2:00 to 2:40 pm; 3:00 pm started descent: wanted to descend a gully, not same route as had descended. Down to C3 at 5:30 pm.

  Final ascent: Cherny, Efimov, Ang Babu and Dr. Karpenko started on 3 May from West C5 with oxygen at 7:30 am to 8:30 am. Doctor went up 100m only and then down to C3. Other 3 to Main Summit at 11:30 am to 11:45 am and half hour there. Brilliant weather. Cleared West C5 and C4 and went to C3.

  Total: 10 traversed and had already been to one summit before = 50 summits
  Total: 85 summits by all 22 mountain climbers, 3 film group members, deputy leader Cherny and coach Efimov, and one Sherpa.

  No accidents or frostbite; 1 case of altitude sickness during descent without oxygen but no serious effects.

  Only 3 Sherpas went above C3 but 15 to C3 - members did much load carrying.

  New route: 1) from 7800m (below C4) to South Summit
             2) from Col between central and main summits to main summits -
                really from C to M summits
             3) not sure about newness of route from West C5 to Yalungkang
                
  BC evacuated to lower camp below BC from 30 April to 7 May.


expid: OHMI89101
peakid: OHMI
year: 1989
route1: W Face-SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Rick Richards
sponsor: Ohmi Kangri 1989
ascent1: 4th
approach: Yangma->up valley->BC
bcdate: 1989-04-21
smtdate: 1989-05-09
smttime: 1120
campsites: BC(21/04,5000m),C1(27/04,5650m),C2(03/05,6500m),C3(06/05,6700m),Smt(09/05)
accidents: Nothing serious
achievment: 1st American ascent
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC right below Pandra Glacier
  C1 on Pandra Glacier
  C2 on SW Ridge above West Face
  C3 on SW Ridge.

  Had lot of sickness (chest and stomach) so were unable to mount as many summit teams as wished. All members to C1, 3 to C2, 2 members above C2 (1 got altitude sickness and down, the other to C2 on up to C3 and summit with 2 Sherpas. "Without the Sherpas we would never had made it to the top - we didn't have the strength, we would never had made it to the top." Not possible to collect enough strong members to make another attempt with support. Had reasonably good weather with mornings clear. Snow fell in afternoon and melted in mornings. 

  Technical difficulties between C2 and C3: rocks requiring fixed rope and some ice. From C3 to top was not as Swiss had it; was knife ridge this month.


expid: MAKA89101
peakid: MAKA
year: 1989
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Jos Dewint
sponsor: Dhaulagiri Expedition 1989
countries: Netherlands
bcdate: 1989-03-03
smtdate: 1989-04-25
termdate: 1989-04-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to Van Lint's frostbite
othersmts: Attempted Dhaulagiri I (DHA1-891-05)
campsites: BC(03,5400m),Dep2(15/03,5900m),C1(25/03,6350m),C2(10/04,6700m),xxx(25/04,7700m)
accidents: Van Lint frostbite and others illnesses
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal high BC
  C1 on big flat glacier
  C2 below Makalu La
  High point north side of NW Ridge.

  "A very beautiful mountain and normal route very beautiful to climb" so stayed on with Daniel for "real try to summit" while others wanted comfort and left. 1st try to reach C2 3 April because of the altitude and was too soon to reach it due to wind and snow. C2 small tent only. 23 Arpil Van Doorsselaere and Van Lint from BC to try for summit. 24th to C2, 25th took sleeping bags, tent, food, etc to make C3 tent at Makalu La. Started at 11:30 am on 25th heavily laden, last time following in darkness, but Van Lint, climbing with one crampon, did not reach La (Daniel had the tent). Daniel even went above La while Van Lint went down brief distance to find place for sleeping bag. Van Lint had frostbitten toes from previous night but didn't realize it till that night they reached C1.

  "I don't regret any moment but I don't go back: There are so many mountains. I got almost to the pass, I know the way to the summit - for me its enough."

  Made 2 depots above BC at 5800m and 5900m; depot 1 used only for few days but depot 2 slept in quite often. Blue ice all up Chago Glacier; no snow. Most members left BC 23 or 24 April to go to Dhaulagiri because sponsors insisted: chances of Makalu success poor because of winds which destroyed tents at BC, depot 2 and C1. At this time no one had gone above C2 which had been established by Bollaert and Kok and reached same day by Jos Dewint and next day by Van Doorsselaere and Van Lint.


expid: MAKA89102
peakid: MAKA
year: 1989
route1: W Pillar
nation: Spain
leaders: Jose Luis Zuloaga
sponsor: Basque Makalu-Baruntse Expedition
bcdate: 1989-04-02
smtdate: 1989-05-18
termdate: 1989-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 8350m due to insufficient equipment for final section
accidents: None
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(02/04,5350m),C1A(05/04,5800m),C1B(07/04,5900m),C2(20/04,6550m),C3(04/05,7350m),Biv(17/05,7750m),xxx(18/05,8350m)

routememo:
  BC at junction of two glaciers
  C1 at start of West Pillar
  C2 at bottom of pillar's steep part
  C3 on pillar
  Biv at top of pillar
  High point at bottom of final very steep section.

  Big snowstorm as arrived at Barun La and many porters deserted. C1 first at 5800m but wind destroyed tent and made camp higher behind rocks. Entire pillar covered in ice, very bad conditions, strong wind, 1 man sick, 1200m rope fixed: took long time to make route route to C2. C3 set on 4 May but not slept in because storm coming up up and down to BC. Slept in 11 May. 

  18th tried for top (all four members) and reached junction with SE Buttress in good weather at 6:00 am, five hours after left biv, and little above this found Czech body [Karel Schubert] from '76 spring, sitting placidly facing climbers who came up. This impressed us a lot, but kept on up, more than 50m - last near vertical section more difficult than they could manage with little rope and only 2 pitons left and too dangerous from avalanching of loose snow, so gave up. Batard had used ropes in most difficult sections [Spring 88]. 18 May 2 men slept in C3, 2 in biv. 2 to BC on 19th, 2 to BC on 20th and climb finished.

  Rescued a (Belgian Van Lint) with frostbite.


expid: BARU89102
peakid: BARU
year: 1989
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Luis Miguel Montero Urgudo
sponsor: Basque Makalu-Baruntse Expedition
bcdate: 1989-04-27
smtdate: 1989-05-06
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to dangerous serac, climbers exhausted and lack of time
campsites: BC(27/04,5400m),Biv1(03/05,5800m),Biv2(04/05,6050m),C3(05/05,6500m),xxx(06/05,7100m)
accidents: None except Miss Martin's stomach trouble
routememo:
  BC  at glacier junction for Makalu
  Biv 1 at moraine NE of East Col
  Biv 2 at plateau south of point 6400m west of small col
  C3  west of point 6730m on wide col/small plateau.

  Alpine-style attempt. Spent six days on mountain, about 3-8 May. 6 members set out on about 3 May and made 1st biv. On 3rd day Luis Miguel, Lete Lasa, Golzarri Orue stayed at 6050m biv while Appelaniz, Gomez and Alfredo continued climb and bived at 6500m on 5 May and 6 May tried for summit, but reached only 7100m on SE Ridge just below big serac. Retreated because 2 very tired and serac dangerous and slept again at 6500m. 7 May returned to 6050m biv. Luis Miguel, Lete Lasa and Golzarri Orue spent 3 nights at 6050m biv. One day rested, next day tried to follow others to climb to top but winds too strong.

  All six returned to BC via biv at about 5300m. Were in hurry: four had to return home for jobs and Montero Urgudo wanted to return to sick girl friend; Martin Cubillo had stomach trouble.


expid: PUMO89102
peakid: PUMO
year: 1989
route1: S Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Tatsuji Shigeno
sponsor: Team Pumori of Japan
ascent1: 40th
bcdate: 1989-04-09
smtdate: 1989-04-21
campsites: BC(09/04,5320m),C1(13/04,5350m),C2(16/04,6120m),C3(20/04,6650m),Smt(21/04)
accidents: None
agency: Trans Himalayan Trekking (THT)
routememo:
  BC south of point 5527 on Schneider map
  C1 at glacier south of Pumori Peak
  C2 on knife ridge running north from Kalapattar
  C3 on SW Ridge.

  Fixed 3000m rope on entire route because other members not so strong. C2 to C3 difficult rock and ice climbing. Others did not reach C3. Japanese made route, Americans followed on same route. Other members of this team not to top because not strong and some snow fall. It was a guided climb.


expid: PUMO89101
peakid: PUMO
year: 1989
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Shari Kearney
sponsor: American Pumori Expedition 1989
ascent1: 41st,42nd
bcdate: 1989-03-28
smtdate: 1989-04-25
othersmts: Attempted Lobuche before Pumori
campsites: BC(28/03,5300m),C1(10/04,6000m),C2(18/04,6200m),C3(23/04,6490m),Smt(25,28/04)
accidents: None
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC due west of Kalapattar
  C1 on SW Ridge
  C2 on SW Ridge (normal site)
  C3 on SW Ridge (normal site).

  Lower part of route not normal way: arrived in snowstorm and couldn't see well. "Weather was so good for us, but winds so bad up high" in April.

  We climbed the SW Ridge. Through a series of events, we ended at a base camp on the west side of Kalapatar, and so may have pioneered a new route on the first 2000 ft. From base camp we worked around the right of the triangular glacier and up a thousand vertical feet to the Kalapattar ridge through sections of rock and 60-degree to 70-degree ice. C1 was placed on April 7 at 19,600 ft on the first bit of flat ground. The route was unusually dry this season. We encountered mostly loose rock and mushroom ice between C1 and C2. The latter was occupied on April 13 at 20,400 ft. We intersected the regular route there. We traversed under rock towers through very loose rock and along sun-cupped ice and water ice before moving vertically onto better rock back to the ridge. We placed C3 at 21,500 ft on April 23. The route was littered with old fixed rope and hardware, some of which we cleaned. On April 25, Lucy Smith, Carol Snetsinger and Kathy Phibbs summited. Three days later, Diane Taliaferro and I also reached the summit.

  Shari Kearney, National Outdoor Leadership School
  Source from American Alpine Journal, 1990, pg 234


expid: NUPT89102
peakid: NUPT
year: 1989
route1: S Spur of SE Smt
nation: Canada
leaders: Jim Elzinga
sponsor: Canadian Nuptse Expedition
bcdate: 1989-04-18
smtdate: 1989-05-17
termdate: 1989-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to slow progress, low supplies and poor weather
othersmts: Chhukung Peak
accidents: None
agency: Nepal Himal
campsites:
  BC(18/04,5200m),Biv(03/05,6000m),Biv1(08/05,5600m),Biv2(09/05,6100m),Biv3(10/05,6300m),Biv4(11/05,6550m),Biv5(12/05,6750m),Biv6(13-14/05,6900m),xxx(17/05,7300m)

routememo:
  BC at Lhotse Nuptse Glacier east of Chhukung Peak
  Biv 1 at beginning of S Spur.

  Did acclimatization climb on Chhukung Peak and Marshall found he had 19,000 ft altitude limit left. Robinson climbed on Nuptse first day of team's climbing Nuptse, which started 7 May, and his back gave such trouble he couldn't move for several days but stayed on at BC till climb finished. 

  Italians, Nuptse team reduced to 2 climbers with one just not ready for Himalayan climb. So 4 men climbed together (5 actually on 1st day) in alpine style. 8 May to 19,800 ft (Robinson climbed east pitches and went down with back trouble). Averaged 4 to 5 rope lengths a day (rope about 50m) in very hard climbing and 7th day got to top of Pillar at 6900m surpassing Jeff Lowe's high point. Canadians and Italians took turns leading climb, 1 day Canada next day Italy. From top of Pillar sat out a day of bad storm and Italians then decided to go down because of lack of food and fuel and weather conditions while 2 Canadians stayed but were now on half rations. 16 May good weather. Rested during day to leave at midnight for SE Summit and did get away at 1:00 am of 17 May. Climbed through night on easier terrain of steep hanging glacier (Pillar had been steep granite ala Yosemite, plus sections less steep of mixed rock and ice) and got into rocks, where realized would take at least 2 more days up very steep rock to SE Summit. In afternoon snowing so climbing ended about noon on 17 May. Got about 450m above top of Pillar.

  SE Summit - 7804m 

  Descended British 1961 route via a Pillar west of ascent route. Back in BC on 19 May. Slept 17th May at top of ascent pillar.


expid: NUPT89101
peakid: NUPT
year: 1989
route1: S Spur of SE Smt
nation: Italy
leaders: Enrico Rosso
sponsor: Italian Nuptse Expedition
bcdate: 1989-04-17
smtdate: 1989-05-15
termdate: 1989-05-16
termnote: Abandoned at 6917m due to cold weather
agency: Trekking International
campsites:
  BC(17/04,5200m),Biv1(08/05,5600m),Biv2(09/05,6100m),Biv3(10/05,6300m),Biv4(11/05,6550m),Biv5(12/05,6750m),Biv6(13-14/05,6900m),xxx(15/05,6917m)

routememo:
  Biv 1 at where Canadians had biv on 7 May and had stayed (not 6000m)
  High point at top of Pillar.

  In seven days got to top of Pillar with 2 Canadians 14 May. 15 May rested. 16 May Canadians started up at 3:30-4:00 am but Italians went down and 17 May in BC. Decided pillar was enough and relations not good with Elzinga (with Peter Arbic good relations). Pillar same parts not difficult but others quite difficult rock (but good rock) with 30% ice, 70% rock. "Nice route" in good snowless conditions. Came down Bonington route.


expid: EVER89201
peakid: EVER
year: 1989
route1: N Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Oreste Forno
sponsor: Citta de Oggino Expedition to Everest
approach: Ktm->Kodari->Rongbuk Glacier
bcdate: 1989-06-02
smtdate: 1989-06-14
termdate: 1989-06-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to snow conditions
othersmts: Climbed Dhaulagiri I (DHA1-891-04)
campsites: BC(02/06,5150m),ABC(06/06,5550m),C1(08/06,6100m),C2(11/06,7000m),xxx(14/06,7500m)
accidents: None
agency: Trekking International
routememo:
  BC at normal site on road
  C2 on North Face.

  5th June whole team left BC with yaks and in 6th and 7th installed ABC; looked at Japanese Couloir but would need lots of fixed rope and did not want to spend time getting and fixing rope, so decided to go to N Face to Great Couloir. On 11th June had all equipment in C2 for summit push but did not sleep there. Rest in C1 on 12th and on 13th occupied C2. 14th weather bad: clouds coming from Lho La and turned back in snowfall from 7500m and slept in C2. Night of 14th/15th blizzard and had to descend quickly to ABC with avalanching. 15th night warm and glacier between ABC and C1 became dangerous. 

  Weather bad until 21st, 1st day could see mountain again (covered in snow). Up to C1 22nd where one tent broken and others covered with snow. 23rd moved C1 downwards and on 25th tried to go up to remove C2 but unable and same on 26th. 27th finally to C2 and found one tent completely swept away but other tent recovered. Left BC 30th. In July weather was even worse; would have had to wait till Aug.


expid: EVER89202
peakid: EVER
year: 1989
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Javier Escartin
sponsor: Abagonesa Expedition Everest 1989 (Tibet)
bcdate: 1989-06-15
smtdate: 1989-08-27
termdate: 1989-09-03
termnote: Abandoned at 8530m due to bad snow conditions
accidents: None (one member with frostbitten thumb that will heal)
agency: Mountain Travel
campsites:
  BC(15/06),C1(23/06,5400m),C2(24/06,6000m),C3(25/06,6450m),C4(03/07,7070m),C5(25/07,7800m),C6(26/08,8350m),xxx(27/08,8530m)

routememo:
  C4 at North Col
  High point on North Face.

  Too much snow and not enough wind in July and August. On 27th Aug down to ABC; other 4 men on 3 Sept arrived at C6 and slept there. Next day 2 men down, 2 men 50-100m up and they too down. All in ABC on 4th, defeated by deep snow on steep ridge.

  Team had 16 men and 7 Sherpas but 1 was non-climbing cook at ABC.


expid: EVER89204
peakid: EVER
year: 1989
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Greece
leaders: Stratos Paraskevaidis
countries: Bulgaria
approach: KTM->Zhangmu->Rongbuk Glacier
bcdate: 1989-07-16
smtdate: 1989-08-20
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to bad weather and deep snow
campsites: BC(16/07,5200m),C1(26/07,5500m),C2(27/07,6000m),ABC(28/07,6400m),C4(30/07,7050m),xxx(20/08,8100m)
accidents: None
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC at road
  C4 at North Col.
  High point on North Face.

  Reached N Col twice and then from there to 8100m using Spanish C5 and C6 on the way; turned back from high point because lacked supplies and member strength with only the two Bulgarians doing high climbing. Lot of fresh snow and only 2 men, so no chance for summit, so turned back on 20th Aug, down to N Col that day and on down following day; was much snow and even rain at N Col. Spanish let them use their camps above the col and climbed together.

  Leader reached N Col, other two Greek members only about 6600m.

  Abergo and Casimiro of Spanish Everest 11 Sept 89: Greek member had not enough experiece or technical ability for this climb.


  Everest Attempt: 

  The first Greek Himalayan expedition had as members Kostas Kanidis, Kostas Passaris, Nikos Louridis and me as leader and Bulgarian Dinio Gueorguiev-Tomov. We got to Base Camp at 5200m on July 16 and acclimatized for ten days. We established Camps 1, 2 and 3 on July 26, 27 and 28 at 5500m, 6000m and 6400m. The weather turned bad. On July 30 Kanidis and I occupied C4 on the North Col but had to descend after 2 days of bad weather. The next ten days were bad. It was decided that Kanidis and Tomov should make an alpine style try from 7100m with one bivouac. They set out on August 18 with good weather but deep snow. They climbed to 8100m but returned from that point.


expid: EVER89301
peakid: EVER
year: 1989
route1: W Ridge from N via Hornbein Couloir
nation: Chile
leaders: Juan Andres Maramisio
countries: USA
bcdate: 1989-08-06
smtdate: 1989-10-14
termdate: 1989-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 8200m due to high winds
accidents: None (Yugoslavs say some frostbitten fingers and pulmonary edema)
agency: Nepal Himal
campsites:
  BC(06/08),ABC(16/08,5700m),C1(18/08,6000m),C2(endAug,6700m),C3(2ndwkSept,7674m),C4(25/09-06/10,7674m),C5(14/10,8200m),xxx(14/10,8200m)

routememo:
  BC  at road
  ABC next to Yugoslav, Japanese and Italian BC's
  C1  at foot of small ridge leading to West Ridge 1 Pole Spr 1988
  C2  on small ridge
  C3  on West Shoulder
  C4  at top of West Shoulder
  C5  at bottom of Couloir
  High point at 8200m.

  Sherpas left KTM 9th Aug and arrived BC 13th Aug. Much snow. Early Sept after C2 established avalanche took away 1 tent and all fixed line. On 14th Oct 2 Chilean members slept in C5 intending to go for summit on 15th but wind too strong and down to C3.

  There were 10 members of whom 2 were Americans plus 4 additional members (trekkers?).


expid: DHA188303
peakid: DHA1
year: 1988
route1: SW Pillar (French 1978-1980 rte)
nation: Czechoslovakia
leaders: Jiri Novak
sponsor: Expedition Dhaulagiri, Annapurna and Fang
ascent1: 35th
countries: Italy, USSR
bcdate: 1988-09-16
smtdate: 1988-10-06
smttime: 1900
accidents: None except Foglaiti intestinal illness
agency: Everest Adventure
campsites:
  BC(16/09,3600m),C1(26/09,5100m),Biv1(28/09,5650m),Biv2(29/09,61000m),Biv3(30/09,6500m),Biv4(01/10,6700m),Biv5(02-03/10,6900m),Biv6(04/10,7200m),Biv7(05/10,7350m),Smt(10/06)

routememo:
  C1 at southwest Col.

  Did no acclimatization climbing because 3 climbers had all recently done 7000m climbs in very recent months in order to get a Dhaulagiri climb in best weather. Did many bivouacs on difficult pillar (grade 4 to 6). 7200m biv on hard ice, small ledges & at plateau had to make cave at 7350m because of winds. Started 11:15 am 6th Oct from 7350m and 7:00 pm on top in darkness & left there in rock pyramid some flags; so windy could not stand up; 10:00 pm on 6th Oct reached cave at 7350m. From BC only 3 men; others on expedition thought they might climb other route; 3 men did entire job of climb with 2 Russians who went for recce for 1991 climb and had equipment (Czechs' stuck on delayed ship) but for whom alpine-style climb forbidden till perestroyka arrived in USSR. Intent was pure alpine-style: 9m climbing rope, 1 7mm rope not for climbing (each 40m long) and 80m long other rope & this all; 30 cams, 30 rock pitons, 5 ice screws and some chocks; 2 ladders, 4 jumars, 1 tent, 2 sleeping bags (Denjan none) and 350 grams/man/day, so on descent no food because had not realized it would be "very hard," but was "very nice." A-2 rating of artificial climb.


  Dhaulagiri Trilogy by Jiri Novak from Mountain Magazine, July/Aug 1988

  Three months before departure my big chance came. Some key people in the expedition couldn't make it and I was made leader of what had become a "super light" team of eight climbers and two trekkers.

  On 16th Sept a cosmopolitan group arrived at the green field beneath the West Face. Myself, Igor Novak, Tomas Skricka (the expedition doctor), and Zoltan Demjan were from Czechoslovakia; Marco Fogliatti and Sergio Antoniazzi from Italy and Jurij Mojsejev and Kazbek Valijec from the Soviet Union.

  We had come to finish off the French Pillar to the summit, and attempt the Japanese Route on the South Face, but yet again the monsoon stayed late and bad was pushing us up against our deadline for leavinag on Oct 12.

  The first good break came on Sept 25th, and next day a team set out for the SW Saddle at 5100m and the day after that, a start was made on the Japanese Pillar. The latter team soon came up against acclimatization problems, and were forced to abandon their climb.

  The climbers on the SW Pillar, however were fresha and fit from climbing in the Tien Shan, prior to departure for Nepal, and on Sept 28th, Zoltan Demjan, Jurij Mojsejev and Kazbek Valijev left the SW Saddle, carrying only 15 kg loads each.

  Five bivouacs and 1700m of climbing got them to within striking distance of the summit, and on 6 Oct at 19:15 all three climbers reached the top. Descending the way they came the team reached BC on Oct the 11th after sixteen days of climbing!

  For Zoltan Demjan, it was his third "eight thousander." He describes his experience:

  "We were late in starting the ridge and the climbing was immediately difficult, forcing us to climb without mittens. In some places the metamorphised limestone was solid, in others it was crushed. The possibilities for hooking were good and some pitches were as magnificient as on Yosemite granite!

  I did most of the leading, particularly the difficult pitches, but the big problem was with fierce gust of wind, blowing up the face, one of which nearly swept Kazbek Valijev away. The 600m headwall of the Pillar was the crux. In three days we climbed 16 rope lengths of alpine VI and A2.

  The last 70 metres of the pillar I climbed in the dark, with the light of my headtorch gleaming in the clear water ice. We had only one rucksack with two sleeping bags, gas, two climbing ropes and one thin 80m rope.

  On the bivouac above the pillar, my toes became frozen, but the hard climbing was below us, and there "only" remainded the three km ridge to the summit.

  On 6th October at 7 pm we reached the summit and stayed there for 15 minutes, but I was so exhausted, I couldn't even summon the energy to film or photograph the others. Thankfully, Kazbek Valijev planted a small Kazakh flag in the summit pyramid to mark our passing.

  The descent in the dark was unnerving. Would we find our bivouac? Would the weather hold? The others kept my spirits up, with their good humoured banter, but I was desperately hungry. Sometimes I could ago for two days without food, but not here. After all the leading, I was drained, so Kazbek and Jurij really looked after me, and got food into me quickly at the top bivouac.

  The summit photograph would have to wait till BC, but not to worry. We were tired, wasted, but alive."


expid: SAIP88301
peakid: SAIP
year: 1988
route1: N Face (to 5200m)
route2: NE Ridge (to 5800m)
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Denis Bertholet
sponsor: Swiss Saipal Expedition
countries: France
approach: Simrikot->Kermi->Yangar (Yalgang where got yaks)->Chale
bcdate: 1988-10-16
smtdate: 1988-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to slab avalanche danger and lack of time
campsites: BC(16/10,4100m),ABC(18/10,4750m),C1(20/10,5200m),C2(21/10,5560m),xxx(22/10,5800m)
accidents: None
achievment: 1st Swiss attempt, new route
agency: Trans Himalayan Trekking (THT)
routememo:
  BC  at Kaireng Khola bottom of North Saipal Glacier
  ABC at moraine of North Saipal Glacier
  C1  at bottom of North Face
  C2  just below a col on NE Ridge
  High point at NE Ridge.

  Had to abandon because snow conditions bad with snow-slab danger on north side and had to leave BC not later than 24th Oct north side very steep, but is possible to climb. Put C1 at bottom of face planing to try face but then slab avalanche came down. Team then shifted route to NE Ridge when snow was deep and slowed progress. Needed 1 more week and several more camps. NE Ridge to pass not difficult but above 5800m technically difficult, steep in one section, rock with 3 summits in 3 km from pass to summit (curving ridge). Only Montaz and Zoller did any climbing above moraine.


expid: DHAM88301
peakid: DHAM
year: 1988
route1: W Ridge?
nation: France
leaders: Jacques Bernes
sponsor: French Dhampus Expedition
termnote: Did not reach BC
campsites: Team never left Kali Gandaki
agency: Amtrek
routememo:
  Never left Kali Gandaki Valley. Met Japanese team (Tukuche?) at Larjung & they said very bad snow conditions & wind during past 4 days had driven them away. So French made no attempt to go to base camp. 2 members had altitude sickness in Thorung La, where group trekked after abandoning climbing plan.


expid: DHA188302
peakid: DHA1
year: 1988
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kazufumi Watanabe
sponsor: Kathmandu Club Dhaulagiri I E Face Expedition 1988
bcdate: 1988-09-14
smtdate: 1988-10-07
termdate: 1988-10-16
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to heavy snowfall
campsites: BC(14/09,4700m),C1(30/09,5800m),C2(15/10,6600m),xxx(07,15/10,6600m)
accidents: None
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at normal site (same as Japanese NE Ridge team)
  C1 near NE Col (before Col reached)
  C2 on NE Ridge (reached by all members 7 Oct)
  xxx at C2 site.

  After BC established, 10 days bad weather (15-24 Sept); much snow fall (1m) so conditions very bad with big avalanches. 7th Oct decided not to try E Face because very dangerous from avalanches, so started up NE Ridge and made C2 at 6600m but did not sleep there. 8th Oct again bad weather (snow) so all down to BC. Stayed in BC 2 days and then 11th Oct 5 members to C1 while Watanabe stayed at BC because very tired. 12th Oct more snow and all again in BC. 

  Hirofumi and Masaki stayed on at mountain but others decided on 12th Oct to leave because of constant danger from snowfall. Watanabe left BC 12th Oct while others 3 others stayed at BC 4 more days and reported Hirofumi and Masaki returned to C2 15th Oct. All members reached C2 site on 7th Oct. No accidents up to 16th Oct, when most had left BC.

  4th Nov Masaki and Hirofumi, who stayed on at Dhaulagiri, have now returned in good health but did not go above C1 after 15th Oct.


expid: DHA188301
peakid: DHA1
year: 1988
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Akihiro Yoshitani
sponsor: Ao-to-shiro Dojin Dhaulagiri I Expedition
bcdate: 1988-09-02
smtdate: 1988-10-03
termdate: 1988-10-09
termnote: Abandoned at 6560m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(02/09,4720m),Biv(11/09,5200m),C1(15/09,5700m),xxx(03/10,6560m)
accidents: None
agency: Jai Himal Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at normal site
  Biv at icefall
  C1  almost at NE Col.

  After C1 established, 9 days continuous snowfall and had to stay in BC. 28th Sep started up again and went to biv camp; next day to C1 to start making route to C2. After reaching site for C2, again snow and strong wind and down. Never slept in C2. Icefall difficult but not difficult above. C2 site reached by all 3 members and 5 Sherpas: Ang Pasang, Ang Kami, Danu, Lhakpa Tenzing and Mingma.

  Left BC 9th Oct.


expid: DHA188304
peakid: DHA1
year: 1988
route1: NE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Cho Chung-Sool
sponsor: 1988 Korean Himalaya Dhaulagiri, Tukuche Peak Expedition
ascent1: 36th
bcdate: 1988-10-25
smtdate: 1988-11-14
smttime: 1610
termdate: 1988-11-16
othersmts: Climbed Tukuche (TUKU-883-01)
campsites: BC(25/10,4700m),C1(29/10,5800m),C2(31/10,6620m),C3(02/11,7300m),C4(04/11,7800m),Smt(14/11)
accidents: Choi frostbitten toes both feet, will heal; Sherpas slight finger frostbite
achievment: 1st Korean ascent of Dhaulagiri I
agency: Adventure Nepal
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 a little below NE Col (south of col)
  C2 on NE Ridge
  C3 on NE Ridge
  C4 on NE Ridge.

  5th and 6th Nov tried twice to go to summit, but winds drove them back both times from about 7900m, so all down to BC. 11th Nov started up for top: 2 Sherpas and 1 Korean; in C3 on 12th Nov, C4 on 13th and 14th to summit in cold, cloudy but little wind. Left C4 9:00 am, on summit 4:10 pm and bived at 8:00 pm at c8000m in snowhole in down jackets. 

  4 Sherpas in C4 on 13th evening with Choi because planned 2nd summit attack, but on 15th leader decided cancel that: one team already on top and Jomsom flight booked for 18th. BC to C1 dangerous icefall; above NE Col always wind. Fixed 700-800m rope (which had been assigned to Tukuche). 

  Only 6 Koreans climbed because fire on approach march destroyed gas, high altitude food and equipment including rope and thus altered entire climbing program.

  Tukuche summit Jun Jae-Young, Lee Sang-Hun, Park Youk-Kwang and Wangchu on 15th Nov. C2 on 6500m NW Ridge on Nepal Army route and reached NW summit. BC between Dhampus and French Passes at 4000+m and C1 5800m on NW Ridge. Went to NW peak by mistake: thought they went to main summit; found were on wrong summit after descent and discussion with Ang Dorje, who went to top with Koreans in Autumn 1985.


  Dhaulagiri And Tukuche NW Ascent by Busan Joint Expedition

  The expedition of 12 members was led by Cho Jung-Sul. They hoped to climb the north side of Dhaulagiri and Tukuche, and then they had traversed both of two peaks 27 km long ridge.

  But unfortunately, the team ventured to do climbing suffered of great damages of 2000 kg materials by fire because of the mistakes of the employees on the way of caravan. They started with the thinking of burden, should finish quickly the climbing, because the foods and equipments are in short.

  They established BC at 4700m on Oct 25th. Japanese team had been already evacuated. The day after leading party Ryu Il-Keun and Choi Tae-Sik rushed to C1 with two Sherpas. Fixed rope in 800m rock step and 150m snow plastered. At first, they followed previous party's (Japanese party) route. But the route turned out dangerous and then decided to changing route in order to avoid the avalanche.

  On Oct 27th, they established C1 at 5800m and they found the foods and equipment left by Japanese team near the C2.

  Although the bad weather they set up C2 and C3 6620m and 7400m.

  It was more worse afer making the C4 at 7800m on Nov 5th. Ryu was confined alone at C4 because of traditionally poor Dhaulagiri weather - deep snow. Wind was strong and temperature dropped to -40 degrees C. 

  In spite of bad weather Ryu and Seo Sung-Soo had left C4 toward the summit on Nov 7th but they had to stop the below the Rock Band in deteriorating weather. All members forced descended to BC.

  On Nov 14th Choi and two Sherpas had left C4 for the summit at 09:00. After more than six hours of climbing they encountered the three peaks at 8160m. That was the last obstacle below the summit and finally they reached the top at 16:00.

  They climbed slowly down to C4 but became to dark and they had to bivouacked below the rock band at 8050m without sleeping bag or stove. Choi had suffered frostbite.

  Ryu and two Sherpas who waited for the second attack at C4 descended to BC escorting the first attack party. The team was given up the 2nd attempt because of bad weather and a lack of food. All members descended to BC at 22:00 on Nov 24th.

  They used no artificial oxygen for climbing on Nov 16. Tukuche party Park Yuk-Kwang, Lee Sang-Hoon and Jeon Jae-Yong stood on the top of Tukuche northwest peak.

  The team failed "the long traverse" but succeeded on the climbing of two peaks.

  The member Choi Tae-Sik should cut the toe and fingers due to the frostbite.


expid: DHA688301
peakid: DHA6
year: 1988
route1: S Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Shin Young-Chul
sponsor: 1988 Korea Dhaulagiri VI, Gurja Himal Expedition
ascent1: 5th,6th
bcdate: 1988-08-31
smtdate: 1988-09-26
smttime: 1230
othersmts: Climbed Gurja Himal (GURJ-883-01) and Ghustung North (GHUN-883-01)
accidents: None
achievment: 1st Korean ascent in 1st attempt
agency: Adventure Nepal
campsites:
  BC(31/08,4530m),Dep(02/09,4800m),C1(06/09,5350m),C2.ABC(10/09,5750m),C3(14/09,6300m),C4(25/09,6750m),Smt(26-27/09)

routememo:
  BC  northeast of point 4100m, WSN point 4738m on glacier
  Dep east of BC and east of spur south of point 4738m
  C1  east of Deposit Camp
  C2  at bottom of rock buttress reaching to N-S Ridge between 2 mountains
  C3  on buttress
  C4  at North-South Ridge.

  26th Sept 5:50 am 2 teams started for 2 summits and on top of Dhaulagiri VI 12:30 pm and Gurja 12:43 pm; returned C4 from Dhaulagiri VI 17:00 hrs and Gurja 18:00 hrs same day; ridge to Gurja very difficult knife ridge atop steep walls on both sides (walls moving rock, snow and ice). Easy climb to Dhaulagiri VI. 1000m fixed rope C2 to C4 on steep sections. No rope fixed rope above C4; many crevasses below C2 (area where Spring 1988 climber died).

  Ghustang North climbed 19th Sept by 3 members (Lee, Lee and Shin) from C2 up West Face.


  Dhaulagiri VI and Gurja, Aut 1988 by Young Cheol Shin

  Several Korean climbers from Wulsan (leader; Mr Young-Cheol Shin) planned a joint expedition with Nepali climbers with a great ambition of conquering simultaneously 2 peaks above 7000m - Dhaulagiri VI (7268m) and Gurja Himal (7193m).

  The first attack began on Sept 26th at 5:52 am, Mr. Bong-Hee Nam (climbing leader) and Nepali member Ang Pasang started C4 (6750m) for Dhaulagiri VI, and at the same for Gurja Himal, Sang-Ho Lee and Seung-Hwan Lee, and the same time for Gurja Himal, Sang-Ho Lee and Seung-Hwan Lee (Korean), and Pemba (Nepali) also started.

  The climbing route toward Dhaulagiri VI was led 300m down from C4 and then continued to knife ridge. Climbing carefully through very sharp and dangerous ridge, member Nam and Ang Pasang firstly gained the summit. It was 12:30 pm. Just after 13 minutes, another success was performed on the top of Gurja Himal.

  As the second attempt, member Sang-Ho Lee and Seung-Hwan Lee again got to the summit of Dhaulagiri VI at 12:15 pm on Sept 27th.


expid: TILI88301
peakid: TILI
year: 1988
route1: N Ridge (Japan 1979 rte)
nation: Czechoslovakia
leaders: Vlastimil Smida
sponsor: Czechoslovak Canoe Expedition to Himalaya Kali Gandaki 1988
ascent1: 11th,12th
bcdate: 1988-10-03
smtdate: 1988-10-18
termdate: 1988-10-25
campsites: BC(03/10,4600m),C1(04/10,5300m),C2(12/10,5600m),C3(17/10,6100m),Smt(18/10,21)
accidents: Fatal fall
agency: Himalayan Explorers
routememo:
  BC southwest of Mesakantu Pass
  C1 at foot of rocky fore with buttress
  C2 at center of rock
  C3 at above rocky section on ice.

  1st part of N Ridge is a steep rocky face. Above this was ice which was not so difficult as rock but same parts required exact ice technique. 1st summit attack on 18th Oct unexpectedly: team who had made C3 were expected to come down and be replaced by other team. Had had blizzard on 4th and 5th Oct leaving 1m snow but in mid-Oct weather cold but stable. 

  1st team of Gribec and Horka established C3 alone (C3=1 tent) on 17th and on 18th started to summit in morning and reached top 6 pm (seen there from BC) without biv equipment. So late on top meant they had to spend night at or near top because route there too difficult to descend at night even with headlamps. Was windy and very cold so biv must have been exhausting. 

  2nd team Palecek and Krachmar were in C1 that night and on 19th 6:30 am saw 1st team descending, this last sight of team alive. Went up quickly and arrived C2 while Smida and doctor with oxygen to C1. 20th Palecek, strongest member, to C3 while Krachmar waited in C2. Palecek on up wall from buttress, reached summit at 10:00 am and found there toys left there by 1st team. Stayed on top 15 mins and then descended while looking down during descent 600m below top and 300m side from route he saw 2 bodies of 1st team. Took a camera and other things from them, covered them with snow and marked place with upper part of their ice ax which was broken. Smida arrived C3 and Palecek confirmed their death by having fallen. Immediately abandoned climb except to clear camps. Left BC 25th Oct.


  Letter from Bobak Jiri

  On 18 Oct at 6 pm reached 7134m summit of Tilicho on 19 Oct at 6:30 am. Left the summit, slipped in the snow and found tangled in rope 600m below summit.

  Mr Ludwik left base camp on 20 Oct in search of these two members but he reached the summit on 21 Oct at 10 am without oxygen. He stayed 15 minutes at summit while descending he found these two members dead tangling in the rope. He took photographs of the dead persons, but left the dead bodies on the same condition, and he came back to base camp on 22nd Oct. No more attempts, expedition abandoned.


expid: ANN388301
peakid: ANN3
year: 1988
route1: E Ridge from S
nation: UK
leaders: Malcolm Duff
sponsor: British Annapurna III Expedition
bcdate: 1988-09-11
smtdate: 1988-10-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6450m due to bad weather coming and time running out
accidents: Cook died on approach to BC
agency: Rover Treks
campsites:
  BC(11/09,3350m),ABC(17/09,4600m),Biv1(29/09,5000m),Biv2(30/09,6100m),Biv3(01/10,6100m),Biv4(02/10,6100m),Biv5(03/10,6450m),xxx(03/10,6450m)

routememo:
  BC  northeast of Machhapuchure
  ABC south-southwest of Annapurna III on moraine
  Biv 1 at bottom of a spur
  Biv 3 on horizontal ridge SE Ridge
  Biv 4 on horizontal ridge SE Ridge 
  Biv 5 at bottom of SE Ridge-Face (high point).

  Alpine-style climb ABC started on 29th Sept with Cave, Perkins, Tattersall and Duff to 1st biv. On 2nd day only Cave and Duff went on up while other 2 down because of altitude problems. Duff & Cave down to ABC on 3rd Oct because big storm approaching; storm brought snow & wind. Now Cave & Duff had not enough time left. Other 2 not happy with the very long East Ridge with no interesting climbing involved. There were a lot of avalanches that nearly hit Fairley.

  * Cook died on approach to BC of cold that suddenly became pulmonary edema (he died during night of 10/11 Sept).


  Letter from Malcolm Duff - 11 Nov 1988 

  You may well have heard that our cook died of HAPE at 13,500 ft on the walk-in. The first party suffered appalling conditions and at this spot decided to send down 14 porters who were likely to die from exposure. 8 other porters (superstars) were pitted out in expedition equipment and stayed in the group to help in the final 1-day ferry to BC.

  The previous section of the route in is absolutely desperate (2 loads were dropped into a gorge directly below). Clearly evacuating of anybody by land is out of the question.

  They had established BC on 10th (or at least some gear got there) when the cook who had responded to treatment by drugs, suddenly became worse and died approx midnight.


expid: ANN188302
peakid: ANN1
year: 1988
route1: N Face (Dutch Rib)
nation: Spain
leaders: Joaquin Colorado Sierra
sponsor: Madrid Annapurna Expedition
ascent1: 21st
bcdate: 1988-09-15
smtdate: 1988-10-03
campsites: BC(15/09,4300m),C1(17/09,5000m),C2(20/09,5800m),C3(30/09,6550m),C4(02/10,7100m),Smt(03/10)
accidents: None
agency: Amtrek
routememo:
  BC at normal site.

  C2 pitched 20 Sept, but slept in only on 25th Sept. Had bad weather but were lucky to try for top one day earlier, then they (Aldai and Azcona) succeeded. 

  Arrieta tried for top with other expedition and like them forced to turn back at 7700m by bad weather. 

  4 members, C4 on 2 Oct, helped other Spanish team: "We put all our forces together" after avalanche devastated C2 of other team. 


expid: ANN188301
peakid: ANN1
year: 1988
route1: N Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Manuel Gonzalez Diaz
sponsor: Gandak 1988 - Expedition Andalusia
countries: Argentina
bcdate: 1988-08-31
smtdate: 1988-10-04
termdate: 1988-10-10
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to renewed snowfall for several days
campsites: BC(31/08,4295m),C1(06/09,5000m),C2(14/09,5800m),C3(28/09,6550m),C4(02/10,7100m),xxx(04/10,7700m)
accidents: None; Morales lost way, avalanche over him but unharmed
agency: Trans Himalayan Trekking (THT)
routememo:
  After C2 made and descended to BC. 9 days snowfall and a big avalanche hit C2 and carried away all food and equipment and all 3 tents. Other Spaniards gave replacemant equipment so climb could continue. Returned to C2 25th Sept and found everything gone. 2 men stayed there while others down for equipment. High point only 7700m because bad weather returned with more snow. Waited few days in C4 for improvement but did not improve, so down on 7th Oct to C1. Left BC 10th Oct.


expid: ANN188303
peakid: ANN1
year: 1988
route1: Rib of NW Face
nation: Czechoslovakia
leaders: Jozef Nezerka, Zdislav Drlik
sponsor: Expedition Dhaulagiri, Annapurna and Fang
ascent1: 20th
countries: Italy
bcdate: 1988-09-15
smtdate: 1988-10-02
othersmts: Had permit for Fang, but did not attempt
accidents: Fatal fall
agency: Everest Adventure
campsites:
  BC(15/09,3800m),C1(20/09,4800m),C2(25/09,5400m),C3(27/09,6000m),C4(29/09,6700m),C5(30/09,7100m),SnowCaveBiv(01/10,8000m),Smt(02/10)

routememo:
  BC near Miristi Khola (1/2 hour from Japanese)
  C1 at end of glacier.

  Members had acclimatized in Soviet Union on 7000m Kangtengri. Martis, Nezerka and Pelikan did all lead climbing, fixing ropes, making tent sites and moving up with their single tent very quickly. Summit day returned to C4 (not biv) at 16:00 hrs. Had been very cold and windy on top. Route was same as French. Upper part of route along ridge from south of summit was very difficult: very sharp ridge, several steps of technical difficulty and windy. Doctor Pelikan did not reach this difficult section but turned back because of fear of freezing his surgeon's fingers during bivouac that was obviously necessary (had no biv equipment except cooker, gas, sugar, shovel to make snow cave, which they made). Not so difficult elsewhere on route but 4 seracs presented danger in 4 places and only here needed fixed ropes below S Ridge. There were frequent avalanches so safest climb was quick climb. 

  Two summiters Martis and Nezerka knew nothing of Pelikan's fatal fall till they were returning from top and saw signs of his disappearance; he might have thought to climb to peak between Annapurna I and Fang in honour of his daughter's birthday on 1 Oct; was very skilled climber. After 6th Oct, 10 members still on mountain to clear it and still might make summit bid.


expid: ANNE88301
peakid: ANNE
year: 1988
route1: E Rib of S Face up; E Ridge-Glacier Dome down
route2: Glacier Dome-E Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Jerzy Kukuczka
sponsor: International Annapurna I South Face Expedition
ascent1: 3rd
ascent2: 4th
countries: Ecuador, Italy, UK, USA
bcdate: 1988-08-30
smtdate: 1988-10-13
smttime: 1600
termdate: 1988-10-22
othersmts: Climbed Glacier Dome (GLAC-883-01) and Roc Noir (ROCN-883-01)
accidents: Espinoza fingers frostbitten and temporary leg paralysis after fall; Navarrete fatal fall
achievment: Climbed Glacier Dome en route to Annapurna East Summit
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(30/08,4300m),ABC(02/09,5200m),C1(05/09,5800m),C2(12/09,6550m),Biv1(11/10,7100m),Biv2(12/10,7500m),Smt(13,16/10)

routememo:
  BC as same as Swiss East Ridge '84 foot of tent Peak on right moraine of Annapurna Glacier
  1st biv - South Face
  2nd biv - East Ridge.

  Had planned to fix all route on S Face but big avalanche seracs changed their minds about route and now planned Hajzer and Kukuczka to make quick ascent of S Face route while others to ascend E Ridge. All descended E Ridge route. C2A and C3A made via Glacier Dome: C2A 6760m on 30th Sept and C3A 7150m on 1 Oct at foot of Roc Noir. Then all back to BC. 8th Oct Kukuczka and Hajzer started up from BC. 10th Oct on C2 on S Face, 11th Oct at 1st biv; 12 Oct, 2nd biv; and 13th top 4 pm at E Summit and descended E Ridge at biv 7500m; 14th to C2A. 

  Navarrete summited 16 Oct via E Ridge route. Majer and Espinoza turned back just below summit. Navarrete fatal fall on descent.

  "Weather: very strong ice wind, low temperature on bad ice, snow"; 60-degree ice walls from C2, 1st biv to C2 mostly fixed rope with grade 3 in some places, grade 4 in one place (with rock covered by loose snow), 15 pitches from C2 and 1st biv on icewall. Above 1st biv climbed together in hurry up 200-300m gully step to big snowfield. Ridge to 2nd biv which became C4A for other route. Route even to C1 very exiting: grade 4 rock back and icefall below C1 with 400m fixed rope which had to be replaced often. Did not go to main summit because had been to it in 1987 and more importantly were afraid of heavy clouds moving in. -26 degrees in tent at 2nd biv and strong winds, so decided to skip main summit and descend.

  2nd route (4 camps) via Glacier Dome: 15 Oct from C3A Navarette, Espinoza and Majer up to Kukuczka and Hajzer's 2nd biv = C4A. 16 Oct 2 pm Navarette to East Summit of Annapurna I, Majer stopped 10m below summit because strong cold wind. Espinoza stopped 100-200m because altitude affecting him (altitude exhaustion). Same evening to C4A all 3 men and next evening to C3A in fog. Near top of Roc Noir descended slightly more direct way; in this section were very big cornices and one broke and Navarette fell (he was Ecuador's No 1 mountaineer). Majer and Espinoza down rock face, Espinoza fell 100m and lost gloves, so fingers frozen (also nose). Navarette fell from about 7450m and disappeared 4:00-5:00 pm. Espinoza fell from about 7200m at 6:00 pm. Espinoza and Majer did not find C3A till next morning and stayed there 1 night. Todd up from C2 18th: scaled Glacier Dome and later that day BC radioed to him to search for 3 missing men and he found 2; to C2 in 1 day and ABC in another day 20th. Espinoza was comotose when Todd met them. Left BC 22nd.

  Dr. Korniszewski: Espinoza will lose top half of right thumb from frostbite. After he learned of Navarrete's fatal fall, he became paralyzed in his legs, had to be carried from Chamro most of the time to Surkhet, although few hours each day could walk slowly with 2 poles (sticks): psychological cause.


  Expedition Round Up Expeditions 1988 - from Himalaya Club Newsletter 

  Annapurna South face, 1988: Our expedition was organized by the High Mountain Club of Katowice and led by Jerzy Kukuczka. We reached the base camp on 30th Aug on the right morraine of the Annapurna Glacier. On the 2nd Sept advance BC was placed at 5200m. Two days later C1 (5800m) was established in a small basin between the slopes of Annapurna, Roc Noir and Glacier Dome. The route to this camp led by dangerous icefalls and very dangerous corridor between the glacier and rocks. On 12 sept C2 (6550m) was made on the lower part of the far east spur of the Annapurna South Face. On 11 Oct Hajzer and Kukuczka started from C2. They climbed via the nearly 2000m high spur mostly through 60-degree ice grooves. 15 pitches or so need careful rope protection. Climbing alpine-style, they made the bivvy at 7100m. Next day the difficulties of ice continued but in the upper part of the rib the ground became less severe. The pair reached the Annapurna East Ridge half way between the Roc Noir and Annapurna East. They bivouacked at 7500m where a tent was placed. On 13 Oct, 1988, the summit of Annapurna I East (8010m) was reached. Bad weather conditions thwarted the plan to continue the climb towards main summit. Hajzer and Kukuczka descended to the 7500m bivvy and spent the night there. On 14 Oct they continued the descent via the slopes of Roc Noir and Glacier Dome (7193m) and bivouacked once again at 6800m. Next day the base camp was reached.

  The second team consisted of Espinoza, Navarrete and Majer who took a much easier variation.  On 15 Oct they reached the tent at 7500m and next day left for the summit. At 2 pm Navarette gained the top and in spite of wind and cold spent there about 10 minutes. I didn't reach the very top and waited for him a few meters below it. Espinoza had to give up some 200m before the summit. We descended to our tent and slept there. Next day (17 October) the weather was bad with strong wind and mist. Descending the east ridge we had route finding difficulties. In the area of the sharp ridge of Roc Noir, Navarrette disappeared, probably falling through a cornice. Lack of visibility prevented us from a search. Beneath Roc Noir Espinoza fell some 100m but survived. The night from 17 to 18 we spent both in snow caves without equipment. In the morning the tent at 7200m was reached and base camp informed about the fatal accident. A rescue team including Steve Untch helped the exhausted pair and went in quest of Navarette, unfortunately, in vain. The base camp was left on 22 Oct.

  Ramiro Navarrette (39) had very good seasons in South America and belonged to the best mountaineers of his country. In Sept 1987 he climbed the Shishapangma (8027m).


expid: MANA88302
peakid: MANA
year: 1988
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiroshi Hori
sponsor: Hirosaki University Mt. Manaslu Expedition 1988
approach: Manang->Samagaon
bcdate: 1988-09-26
smtdate: 1988-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to food and fuel supplies finished
campsites: BC(26/09,4200m),ABC(27/09,4800m),C1(03/10,5800m),C2(12/10,6400m),C3(23/10,7200m),xxx(24/10,7500m)
accidents: Kurotaki had limbago and could not carry so stopped climbing
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC  at normal site for NE Face
  ABC at 4800m 
  C3  at NE Face seracs.

  In KTM before leaving for Manaslu, decided since team only 2 instead of 4 or 5, would be safer to climb normal route than NW Face. 

  C1 pitched on 30 Sept but first slept in on 3 Oct. One summit attempt: Hori and sirdar Moti Lal Gurung went up and made C3 with Spanish member Juan and Ang Lhakpa Sherpa on 23 Oct. Next day on up and at 7500m Hori sick (had cold?) so in bad condition and turned back with Moti to BC some day while Spanish member and Ang Lhakpa made biv at 7800m and summited following day. Dangerous route: many avalanches (Spaniards stayed high during bad weather and were hit often, Japanese down quickly and not hit). Climb abandoned on day of Hori's descent because had brought only 2 weeks of high altitude food.


expid: MANA88301
peakid: MANA
year: 1988
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Antoni Lopez De Haro, Francisco Soler Dies
sponsor: Elx a L'Himalaya Manaslu 1988
ascent1: 30th
bcdate: 1988-09-09
smtdate: 1988-10-25
accidents: Slight frostbite by Agullo; some members slightly battered by avalanche falls into crevasse
agency: Kunga
campsites:
  BC(09/09,3800m),C1(09/12,4800m),C2(09/18,5550m),C3(09/26,6300m),C4(10/23,7100m),Biv(10/24,7600m),Smt(10/25)

routememo:
  C2 near Naike Col.

  Spent many days at BC 1st week of Oct because of heavy snowfall and much avalanching; were two attempts in this period but got no higher than C3. Finally in successful attack made C4 on 23 Oct, biv on 24th and top on 25th. 1st attack ended where 3 Sherpas and 1 member carried 300m by avalanche on 3rd Oct but not injured (hit at 6800m). During avalanche period many crevasses filled so very dangerous because could not see crevasses between C1 and C2. Camps carried away but tents at C2 and C3 broken by weight of deep snow. No other summit attack after 25 Oct because health not so good and only 3 real climbers left. After failure of 1st attack many members went home (all of Lopez group left 8 Oct with Soler i Dies and Gonzalez and all but 1 Sherpa who had conflict with other Sherpas). Not technically difficult climb, says Agullo, but altitude is problem.


expid: LANG88301
peakid: LANG
year: 1988
route1: S Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Waclaw Dudek
sponsor: Polish Langtang Lirung Expedition
bcdate: 1988-10-02
smtdate: 1988-10-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to one member's frostbite and low supplies
accidents: Gardzielewski frostbite
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(02/10,4300m),ABC(08/10,4800m),C1(11/10,5200m),C2(13/10,5600m),C3(24/10,6200m),Biv(29/10,6800m),xxx(29/10,6800m)

routememo:
  BC  same as Koreans at foot of southwest ridge which joins South Ridge
  C1  on South Ridge (had traversed across from SW Ridge base)
  C2  on South Ridge
  C3  on South Ridge
  Biv on South Ridge where SE Ridge joins it.

  Between C2 and C3 very difficult. After biv made on 29th, Gardzielewski became frostbitten and necessary to evacuate him. He and Soroka were 1st summit team and 2nd summit team had to help get him down. Now supplies dwindling and final section of climb above biv needed more fixed rope for quick ascent than they had. Climbing finished.


expid: CHOY88307
peakid: CHOY
year: 1988
route1: N Face up; W Ridge-W Face down
route2: N Face-W side
route3: N Face
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Roman Robas
ascent1: 56th
ascent2: 57th,60th
ascent3: 59th
approach: Via Khasa->Tingri->Kyetrak
bcdate: 1988-10-17
smtdate: 1988-11-02
termdate: 1988-11-14
campsites: BC(17/10,5750m),C1(19/10,5850m),C2(20/10,6200m),C3(30/10,7200m),C4(04/11,7550m),Smt(02,05,08-09/11)
accidents: Some frostbite but all will heal
achievment: 1st attempt of N Face; 1st ascent of face; 1st traverse
routememo:
  BC at moraine near junction Gyabrag and Palung Glacier
  C1 at Palung Glacier
  C2 at bottom of N Face (bergschrund, ice hole)
  C3 on North Face
  C4 on North Face.

  Long approach and difficult from BC to C1. C2 to C3 and above C4 to top most difficult with no place to put C3 lower. Some parts 55-60 degrees, avalanche 45+ degrees. Mostly snow and ice face. C3 to C4 very bad snow condition (powder snow with thin ice crust). Couloir from 7800m to 8150m of rock slabs covered with ice and snow - no avalanching. Some seracs between C3 to C4 but did not fall in very cold weather (C1 -25 degrees early morning) with 1 hour direct sun on face. Very windy on top but generally no wind on face. Fixed rope from C2 to C3; 1700m fixed. 

  On 2 Nov Tomazin alone from C3 to top and down Tichy route in unprepared descent to 6000m where met Skarja at 2:00 am on 3 Nov. All 3 returned to BC 7 am.
   
  3 Nov Groselj and Rozman made C4 4 Nov wind and snowfall kept them in C4 and 5 Nov to top via small traverse to Tichy route and descended same way. 

  8 Nov Nadvesnik and Prezelj from C4 direct to top via couloir and descended couloir to C1 and C2, respectively. 

  9 Nov Jereb and Robas from C4 to top via small traverse of 5 Nov and down to C2. 

  Left BC 14th Nov. 5th degree average difficulty (French TD - tres difficult like classical north face route in Alps). One of last great Himalayan faces. Couloir is about vertical 300m high, starting from 7850m; last 10m is 90-degree rock.


expid: PUMO88304
peakid: PUMO
year: 1988
route1: SW Ridge from W
nation: Iceland
leaders: Porsteinn Gudjonsson
sponsor: Anglo-Icelandic Pumori Expedition
countries: UK
bcdate: 1988-10-02
smtdate: 1988-10-18
termdate: 1988-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to disappearance of climbers
campsites: BC(02/10,5300m),C1(09/10,5800m),xxx(18/10,6400m)
accidents: Giersson sick and left early
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC at west side of Kalapattar above Changri Shar Glacier
  C1 at plateau in upper Changri Shar Glacier.

  Planned biv at 6600m with one very long day to this biv on 60-degree ice (no place for camp) and then go for summit next day. Giersson active in load carrying and overdid it: was coughing blood, left expedition 14th Oct and went to Paris hospital, where found had a fractured rib. By now had fixed all ropes they had (400m) from 5850m to 6000m on very steep ice gullies with rock below the 60-degree ice face to ridge. (Aisthorpe went to Pheriche on 16th sick with gastric flu and message sent by him from HRA post to BC saying they should carry on without him). 

  2 remaining left BC on 17th for summit bid; were seen from BC by sirdar, cook and LO on 18th late morning moving up ice slope above fixed ropes. Last seen 2:00 pm 18th moving together at 6400m, then moved behind serac and never seen again. 19th 8:00 am Aisthorpe arrived at BC and spent day waiting for them to appear. On 20th he got up at 4:00 am and went to C1 to have a look, arrived at C1 expecting find them there but no sign of them there or above on route and did same on 21st. "No doubt bodies are in bergschrund." On 21st also walked around under SE Face to look. Not feasible for him to climb above C1 because of crevasses. Pair must have fallen roped together. Aisthorpe's highest point was about 6000m at top of fixed ropes. No chance others reached summit because route above serac clearly visible from BC (could well have been behind it an hour and then emerged back into view). Highest possible point for them to have reached without having been seen would be 6550m.

  Australian Jeffery Williams reported seeing pair on summit afternoon of Oct 19 (AAJ).


  Report Searching the Body

  Four of us started to searching the bodies on 5th June. We arrived in Lobuche and spend over night there. The next morning we started at 7am and arrived at Gorak Shep within 1 and 1/2 hours. We set our camp at Gorak Shep and make a day tour all around the icefall and crampons. We were searching there for couple of days. Our detail route as given with a rough map.

  Well first of all we had been to base camp and looking all around the ice fall, same day we climbed Kalapattar. The day was clear so we have had good view of both side of mtns and due icefall and crampons, but there is no sign of bodies, so we came back to camp that day.

  Next day we had been climbing the black rock which is more higher.


  Accident Report Anglo-Icelandic Pumori Expedition 1988

  The Anglo-Icelandic Pumori Expedition established a base camp at west of Kalapattar, the site used by the 1986 New Zealand Expedition.

  From 4th to 13th Oct, members established and carried loads to a high camp at approx. 5800m on the Upper Changri Shar Glacier. We also fixed about 400m of rope on steep ice and mixed ground on the West Face. Porsteinn, Gudjonnson, Kristinn Runarsson and Steve Aisthorpe all spent two nights at the high camp and two days fixing ropes.

  On 4th October Jon Giersson had begun to develop pains in the chest and now, after talking with doctors at the Himalayan Rescue Association post in Pheriche, he decided to return to Paris. He left base camp on 14th Oct and we all spent the night together with Porsteinn. I began to develop sysmtoms of gastric flu. On 16th Oct I descended to Pheriche to speak to the doctor about this. As the doctor suggested that it would be 4-7 days before I would recover. I sent a message with Ang Nuru, our sirdar, suggesting that Porsteinn and Kristinn should continue climbing without me

  On receiving this message on the morning of the 17th Oct, they left base camp at 10 am with intention of going to high camp that day, leaving the camp at midnight, ascending the fixed ropes, climbing together up ice to reach the SW Ridge at about 6700m, bivouacing there, then going for the summit on the 19th, then descending the West Face by asceil. The took from the high camp 2100 ropes, 10 screws, 6 gas cylinders, sleeping bags, down clothing, bivi bags and food.

  On 18th Oct, while I was still in Pheriche recovering from gastric flu, Ang Nuru and Phu Dorje, watched Porsteinn and Kristinn through a camera with a telephone lens. They made steady program and were moving together. They were last seen at about 2 pm, when they disappeared from view behind a serac at about 6400m. They did not reappear into view the that day.

  I arrived in base camp at about 8 am on 19th Oct and waited expectantly for the two figures to appear on the ridge and climbed to the summit. Nobody appeared from above the serac that day.

  On 20th Oct I left base camp at 4:30 am and climbed to the high camp. There was however no sign of them in high camp. From the C1 I had clear view of the route, but there was not sign of life. I went back to base camp and went, in the afternoon, with Ang Nuru around to below the SE Face, but there was nothing to see on the afternoon of 20th Oct. I sent a message to the officer in charge at Namche Bazar police post requesting that he radio the following message to Kathmandu; "To Mountain Travel. Please send helicopter to Gorak Shep immediately - 2 members missing." On 21st Oct I woke at 4 am and again climbed to the high camp. I searched the Upper Changri Shar Glacier as far as possible, but found nothing. I then descended to Gorak Shep and waited for a helicopter. I also spent the 22nd Oct, waiting in Gorak Shep for a helicopter. When it didn't arrive I sent our Liaison Officer, Mr Bal Krishna Shrestha, with the same message as before to Namche Bazar. I spent 23rd Oct waiting expectantly for the helicopter in Gorak Shep. On 24th Oct at 11 am a helicopter arrived in Gorak Shep. The pilot explained that the reason for the delay was that there was a policy of not making helicopters available for searching - only for rescue.

  After some persuasion, the pilot took me on a search above the Changri Shar Glacier and spiralled up the West Face to about 6000m. We could not safely climb any higher. I could see no traces of Porsteinn, Kristinn or their equipment.

  It seemed certain that they had fallen from about 6500m on 18th Oct and that there bodies now lay in the complex bergschrund at the foot of the face. As I was the only remaining climber in the area and none of the our base camp Sherpas were equipped or experienced enough to venture serious risk to my own life. The crevasses on the Upper Changri Shar Glacier had opened up considerably during the last week and for me to move around on the glacier after the sun had begun to soften the snow bridges was very dangerous. After six very cold nights and a small snowfall, it seemed certain that any searching was for bodies only and, as such, further searches by myself seemed unjustifiable.

  I returned to Kathmandu with the helicopter and tried to contact Jon Giersson and Anna Lara Fredrickdottir from the Mountain Travel Office. Eventually, at about 10 pm local time I spoke with Bjorn, Anna's husband and President of the Icelandic Alpine Club. I gave as much information as possible about what had happened to Porsteinn and Kristinn. On 25th Oct I spoke with Kristinn's father on the telephone and related the above incidents in as much detail as possible. In my opinion Porsteinn and Kristinn died on 18th Oct as a result of a fall down the steep rock and ice of the West Face of Pumori. Their bodies lie in the bergschrund at the foot of the face. I am a committed Christian and have committed them into God's care.


  Note: The bodies of Runarsson and Gudjonsson were discovered at the bottom of a glacier in November 2018 by an American climber.


expid: CHOY88304
peakid: CHOY
year: 1988
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N (Tichy)
nation: Italy
leaders: Sergio Martini, Fausto de Stefani
ascent1: 53rd
approach: From Xixabangma
bcdate: 1988-09-14
smtdate: 1988-09-17
campsites: BC(14/09,5700m),Biv1(15/09,6700m),Biv2(16/09,7400m),Smt(17/09)
accidents: None
routememo:
  Much bad snowfall; alpine-style climb from high BC on 15 Sept and reached C2 that day. 16 Sept to C3. 17 Sep to top and down to 6700m in much new snow and 18 Sept to high BC in more bad weather and avalanching. Had to probe ahead like blind men 10 cm distance at a time to feel their way in fog and snow. On 17th night both had snow blindness because could not wear glasses and see. On 17th reached summit only by following track of French. Otherwise would not have been able find summit, which was near when weather closed in. Pushed on despite bad weather because had no time for second summit push. Not difficult technically.

  No sign of [body of] Stefan Woerner or any tent; snow very deep.


expid: CHOY88301
peakid: CHOY
year: 1988
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N (Tichy)
nation: Italy
leaders: Luciano Vuerich
sponsor: Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 51st
bcdate: 1988-08-21
smtdate: 1988-09-13
accidents: None
achievment: 1st 8000er by any one from their region
agency: Trekking International
campsites:
  ChineseBC(21/08),ABC(24/08,5700m),C1(29/08,6300m),C2(31/08,6500m),C3(04/09,7100m),C4(05/09,7500m),Smt(13/09)

routememo:
  Chinese BC 21st
  High BC near Nangpa La (at sharp bend in route of Spanish 1984)
  C1 at top of ridge running southwest (in direct line with M of Khumbu)
  C2 under serac
  C3 at top of seracs (end of serac section)
  C4 at Spanish 1984 autumn C4.

  1st attempt for summit 5 Sept. 2 members reached 7900m but knee-deep snow and tired; all down to high BC. 

  2nd attempt by 3 men on 9 Sept. On 11th one back down while 2 to C3 and 12th to C4 and 13th to top. 14th all camps cleared.

  Too much snow to see [body of] Stefan Woerner or his tent.


expid: CHOY88306
peakid: CHOY
year: 1988
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: USA
leaders: Keith Brown
approach: From Lhasa
bcdate: 1988-10-13
smtdate: 1988-10-17
termdate: 1988-10-18
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to strong winds and Langmade's frostbite
othersmts: Attempted Changtse (CTSE-883-01)
campsites: BC(13/10,5700m),C1(14/10,6850m),C2(15/10,7200m),C3(16/10,7650m),xxx(17/10,7800m)
accidents: Langmade frostbite (will heal)
routememo:
  C3 just above rock band across face.

  C3 tent completely destroyed during night of 17-18 Oct, so on 18th instead of making 2nd summit bid, went down all the way to the glacier (to BC) because no tent left and winds not abating. Now had no other high-altitude tent and Langmade had developed frostbite in fingers and toes.

  Two bags of personal gear stolen by local people; LO and translator had quit. Got back everything by search of Tingri houses; paid Tibet International Sports Travel less than contracted for as a result.

  Saw body (presumably Stefan Woerner's) wrapped tightly in a tent in a shallow grave at 7400m.


expid: CHOY88305
peakid: CHOY
year: 1988
route1: W Ridge-W Face-Tichy route
nation: Poland
leaders: Piotr Henschke
ascent1: 55th
approach: From Nepal [apparently via Nangpa La]
bcdate: 1988-10-12
smtdate: 1988-10-16
campsites: BC(12/10),Biv1(13/10,6700),Biv2(14/10,7100m),Biv3(15/10,7600m),Smt(16/10)
accidents: None
routememo:
  BC at Gyabrag Glacier (probably usual C1 site)
  Biv 1 east of point 6446m
  Biv 2 
  Biv 3 under rock barrier.

  2 climbers only. 13 Oct began climb and slept under serac after ridge. 14th crossed seracs. 15th slept at 7600m and on 16th Henschke alone upwards and reached highest summit.

  On 16th saw 2 people going up from below rock barrier and probably reached summit on 17th.

  Had trekking permit only therefore an unauthorized climb.

  Dudek (Langtang Lirung) - Henschke is strong climber - was on same route as Poles in 1985 (Gardzelesinski, member of Langtang now was 1985 summiter).


expid: CHOY88303
peakid: CHOY
year: 1988
route1: N Ridge (to 6800m) from N
route2: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: Italy
leaders: Mario Conti
sponsor: Alpine Expedition City of Lecco Cho Oyu N Face
ascent2: 54th
bcdate: 1988-09-05
smtdate: 1988-09-27
campsites: ChineseBC(05/09,5700m),ItalianBC(10/09,6300m),C1(25/09,6700m),C2(26/09,7300m),Smt(27/09)
accidents: Mazzoleni slight frostbite
agency: Trekking International
routememo:
  BC at 5700m at normal site
  Italian BC at west side of Col 6517m for N Ridge route
  C1 at normal route
  C2 at normal route.

  N Ridge route climbed to col 6517m and up Ridge to 6800m and down because new snow very soft and ridge steep and windy; avalanche danger too great. Saw 3 members turn back at col. 

  Then to normal route which not difficult; from summit to BC same day. 

  On N Ridge above 6800m much blue ice but not very difficult.


expid: PUMO88301
peakid: PUMO
year: 1988
route1: E Face-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Mitsuo Nomura
sponsor: Japan Workers Alpine Federation Tochigi Pumori Expedition 1988
ascent1: 37th
bcdate: 1988-09-19
smtdate: 1988-10-09
campsites: BC(19/09,5300m),ABC(20/09,5720m),C1(07/10,6120m),C2(08/10,6650m),Smt(09/10)
accidents: Harmless fall in crevasse by Yanagihara; Nagatsuga slight illness at time of summit bid
agency: Trans Himalayan Trekking (THT)
routememo:
  BC at north side of small lake ESE of mountain
  C2 little below NE Ridge.

  Fixed rope from 5700m to 6150m. Did not sleep in ABC; used it as base for fixing rope. Route slightly different from 1986 winter Japanese. In descent Yanigahara fell 10m into crevasse between top and C2 and spent night in biv at 5900m with Nomura; not injured and only very slightly frostnip 2-3 toes. Not difficult climb.


expid: PUMO88302
peakid: PUMO
year: 1988
route1: E Face-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Jose Javier Quinones Querencia
sponsor: Spanish Pumori Expedition
ascent1: 36th
bcdate: 1988-09-19
smtdate: 1988-10-07
campsites: BC(19/09,5300m),C1(01/10,6180m),C2(06/10,6550m),Smt(07/10)
accidents: None
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  BC at 5300m near lake (normal site - same as Japanese Autumn 1988)
  C1 at 6100m at same as Japanese on East Face
  C2 same as Japanese on East Face.

  6th Oct night 1 meter of snow and so only two strongest to summit. Last section of climb below top crevasse opening was swimming in deep snow. Good cooperation with Japanese, shared ropes. Route was 200m left of couloir dangerous from avalanches in autumn.


expid: PUMO88303
peakid: PUMO
year: 1988
route1: SW Ridge from E
nation: Australia
leaders: Jeffery Williams
sponsor: Australian Pumori Expedition 1988
ascent1: 38th,39th
countries: Canada, New Zealand, USA
bcdate: 1988-09-24
smtdate: 1988-10-10
smttime: 1545
campsites: BC(24/09,5300m),ABC(28/09,5500m),C1(03/10,6180m),C2(09/10,6500m),Biv(6800m),Smt(10-11/10)
accidents: Corvini's toes frostbitten (may lose nothing)
agency: Lamjung
routememo:
  BC  east of Kalapattar's high point
  ABC at moraine at base of snow
  C1  at col on SW Ridge where it breaks up into 2 ridges south of summit
  C2 (biv) ice cave on SW Ridge
  Biv summit snow slopes at top of ridge.

  Climbed ice face on east side of SW Ridge; 80-degree water ice just below C2 (at 6700m). 2 summit teams left C2 at 6 am and 7 am on 10th Oct (C2 had no tents but sleeping bags, etc.) Woolums and Vran fixed some rope got to top at 3:45 pm and on descent at 4:20 pm met Howes and Corvini moving slowly upwards at 400m below summit. 1st party to C2 at 9 pm while 2nd party on up about 50m and then bivouacked out of wind in small hole; went to top [next day] at 12:10-12:25 pm at 15 degrees centigrade and 50-knot gusts of wind and down to C2 at 10:00 pm. Corvini dropped the rope. Corvini developed frostbite over next few days having failed to remove his 4 pairs of socks for days.

  Route has no great technical difficulties, but people die on it because they make their last camps too low.


expid: KHAT88301
peakid: KHAT
year: 1988
route1: NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Mike Davison
sponsor: Himalayan Venture 1988 - British Expedition to Khatang
approach: Tried N of Thanga a trail that does not exist->Lumding Kharke
bcdate: 1988-10-21
smtdate: 1988-10-28
termdate: 1988-10-31
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to bad snow conditions and lack of time
campsites: TempBC(21/10,4200m),BC(23/10,4100m),ABC(24/10,4800m),Biv(25/10,5700m),xxx(28/10,6100m)
accidents: None except illness of Coulthard before BC
achievment: 1st British attempt
agency: Sherpa Cooperative Trekking (SCT)
routememo:
  BC  northwest of Lumding Kharka
  ABC Tsho Og lake
  Biv in icefall.

  Arrived BC 8 days late because porters deserted them. Sirdar got onto track that didn't exist and had find the way through rhododendron forest. After BC did a recce of SE Ridge and found did not have time and resources for ridge with 300m rock step which was too formidable for present expedition, so turned attention to NE Ridge. 

  25th Oct recce icefall to 5000m. 27th Oct 4 left ABC and camped at 5450m, 28th on to col at foot of ridge at 5720m and started to find Swiss ropes and went on up 45-50 degrees steep ridge mostly snow, at first quite good snow but became unconsolidated sugar. Got to 6100m at 2:30 pm in slow going and no site for camping and slight chance of completing ridge to top next day, so down to ABC. 

  Another team went through icefall on 29th intending to put camp at col, which they reached on 30th and hacked out ice platform for a tent and spent night there. 31st on up ridge but encountered same problem when snow powdered and no protection possible; got to just little below 6100m and gave up. Climbing finished and all down to BC by 2 Nov. Very difficult ridge for alpine-style ascent.


expid: CHOY88308
peakid: CHOY
year: 1988
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: Japan
leaders: Noboru Yamada
ascent1: 58th
approach: From Tibet
bcdate: 1988-10-31
smtdate: 1988-11-06
othersmts: Climbed Xixabangma (Chinese Route)
campsites: BC(31/10,4750m),ABC(03/11,5700m),C1(04/11,6350m),C2(05/11,7200m),Smt(06/11)
routememo:
  Climbed Xixabangma first (to summit on 24 Oct) then to a "very fast climb" of Cho Oyu.

  In the autumn of '88 Noboru Yamada who had already made seven 8000ers, summits, climbed above 2 peaks, which left him five more unclimbed 8000ers among 14 of them. He organized the HAJ team, led by him, comprised 4 members. They reached BC of Xixabangma on Oct 9 and carried their loads up to ABC for 3 days. On the NE Ridge (normal route) after they push up C1 (6300m) on Oct 17, C2 (6900m) on Oct 19 they fixed ropes up to 7350m. On Oct 24 all the members attacked the summit and except O. Shimizu (30) who gave up at the point of 7350m, Yamada, T. Saegus and A. Yamamoto (26) kept climbing until they made the summit at 13:50. On Oct 29 they withdrew the BC and took one day rest at Xegar then approached the Cho Oyu BC (4750m) on Oct 31. Pushing up on the normal West Ridge (WNR Ridge) route they placed ABC (5700m), C1(6350m) and on Nov 6 all the members reached the summit.


expid: NUMB88301
peakid: NUMB
year: 1988
route1: SW Ridge-W Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Yeong-Chul
sponsor: 1988 Korea Pusan Numbur Expedition
ascent1: 7th
bcdate: 1988-09-06
smtdate: 1988-09-25
smttime: 1230
campsites: BC(06/09,4600m),C1(09/09,5100m),C2(15/09,5700m),C3(24/09,6100m),Smt(25/09)
accidents: None
achievment: 1st Korean success in 1st attempt
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC as planned (6 Sept advanced team arrived).

  After C2 established much snowfall stalled progress. C2 to C3 most difficult: ice and snow very steep and sharp ridge. Fixed total 1400m rope. From C3 to top long time: 4:00 am to 12:30 midday because long distance and 3 overhangs. No time for another summit bid: flight home fixed.

  Think their route is same as Japanese '88 winter but are not sure about upper part, where Koreans traversed to West Ridge.


expid: GYAC88302
peakid: GYAC
year: 1988
route1: SW Face-SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Yang Haw-Seok
sponsor: 1988 Korean Nepalese Himalaya Gyachung Kang Expedition
ascent1: 6th
bcdate: 1988-10-03
smtdate: 1988-10-24
smttime: 1255
campsites: BC(03/10,5300m),C1(07/10,5900m),C2(12/10,6400m),C3(17/10,6900m),C4(22/10,7650m),Smt(24/10)
accidents: None
achievment: 1st autumn ascent in 1st Korean attempt
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC as same as Japanese near lake.

  Route changed slightly from plan because Japanese already climbing this planned route. Very difficult above C3; very steep ice face with no proper space for C4. Fixed 3000m total, 2000m from C3 to top. Had planned summit push day after C4 established but too much difficult ice step-cutting. No other summit bid after 24th because supplies running out. Route between Japanese 1964 spring & French 1986 spring expeditions.


  Expedition Report/Gyachung Kang (7952m) by Hwa-Seok Yang
  Taken from Sanak in winter 1988

  Daejeon Seil Club, the first summiter to Ngojumba Kang in 1982, again made a great achievement on SW Face of Gyachung Kang this time. 

  On Oct 2nd they advanced to C2 for 5 days and on 12th, C2 was secured at the foot of the Gyachung Kang Face.

  Suddenly on Oct 17th, they saw a unfortunate Japanese climber falling down in his way of returning from SW Ridge leaving to the summit just 50m and they continued climbing with more indomitable spirit, so that they overcame the difficult route to fix the ropes. Especially toward C4, they had to climb up almost vertical face mixed with rock, snow and ice, which needed more time than expected. Consequently they could not find any suitable place for their camp after dark, and it was over 8:00 pm when they barely managed to sleep just in one tent blocked with ice. It was Oct 22. C4 was established at 7500m the next day.

  On Oct 24th, member Yeon Heon-Mo and Shim Yeom-Bo started for the summit with Ang Rinji and Ang Dorji. After overcoming the mixed route with ice and snow (over 100m long), they arrived at the point connected from West Ridge to the summit. Due to very steep rock slope just below the summit, they had to make a detour of long and exhausted advances in the direction of Tibet, and after 5 hours and 20 minutes of struggles they finally reached the summit.


expid: GYAC88301
peakid: GYAC
year: 1988
route1: SW Ridge-SW Pillar
nation: Japan
leaders: Mitsuo Uematsu
sponsor: Fukuoka University Alpine Club Gyachung Kang Expedition 1988
bcdate: 1988-09-23
smtdate: 1988-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to Baba's fatal fall
campsites: BC(23/09,5300m),C1(24/09,6000m),C2(29/09,6300m),C3(11/10,6800m),C4(16/10,7300m),xxx(17/10,7800m)
accidents: Baba fatal fall
agency: Sagarmatha
routememo:
  BC on north side of Ngozumba Kang Glacier (same as Koreans).

  Joined French Spring 1986 route only at 7200m because of crevasse below, between C1 and C2. From C2 to C4 very steep and required fixed rope entire distance. 17th Oct summit attack by Ang Phurba, Baba and Kikuchi: started from C4 at 6 am; to 7800m easy climb because plenty of snow on rock and reached there at 12:15 pm; decided they should turned down because tired and Kikuchi planned to join 2nd attack party from C4 next day. Ang Phurba quickly reached C4 (1-1/2 hour). Baba probably reached traverse from C4, but now so cloudy no one there could see him; no fixed rope needed in easy couloir above C4. Kikuchi reached C4 10 mins after Baba was there and fell. 2nd attack party's Sherpas saw Baba falling below C4; he stopped falling near C2 near crevasse and was dead of broken head, etc. Now climbing stopped.


  Tourism Ministry, 23 Oct 88

  Mr Sinichi Baba, 1960, staff of Hare Co., Kiami Kokura Mihaki Saga of Japan, a climbing member of 11-member Nepal-Japan expedtion to Gyachungkang (7952m) reported to have slipped to death from 7300m on 17 October. He had started to climb to summit at 6 am that day but after reaching 7800m, turned back being very late and reaching near C4 at 7300m. Mr Baba slipped it is reported. Also reported, his body found near C2 (6300m) and his last rites completed there. Expedition being abandoned due to this accident. Leader of the expedition is Mr Uematsu Mitsuo, 1936, Fukuoka Hospital secretary.


expid: CHOY88302
peakid: CHOY
year: 1988
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N (Tichy)
nation: France
leaders: Michel Vincent
sponsor: Cho Oyu 1988
ascent1: 50th,52nd
countries: Spain, Switzerland, Netherlands
bcdate: 1988-08-28
smtdate: 1988-09-12
campsites: BC(28/08,5800m),C1(30/08,6300m),C2(02/09,6800m),C3(04/09,7400m),Smt(12,14/09)
routememo:
  1st attempt from C3 on 12 Sept; had waited few days for slower members to acclimatize and then 2 days bad weather. Left BC 9 Sept with half of group; 10th stayed extra day again C2; 12th first team on top. 13th second team from C3 to C4; 14th second team to top. Not difficult climb (easier than Gasherbrum II and Xixabangma) when much snow but snow may be dangerous when wind slabs are exposed.

  Cormier parapented from start of summit plateau (8100m) to 5900m. Gouvy and Perillat glacier surfed (single ski but not mono-ski) from summit to C1 at end of snow very quickly.

  Mono ski and short-alpine skier Bovero died suddenly of pulmonary edema in his tent at Everest BC while on acclimatization trek before climb.


  Brumo Cormier - 19 Sept 88

  Cormier arrived KTM today, Jaccoux and others on 24th eve (except Vincent)
  Cormier flew by hang-glider
  on 12 Sept 7 people on summit
     14 Sept 5
            ---
            12 = 2 guides
                 3 Sherpas
                 7 clients

  Also on 14 Sept two Italians on top
  4 frostbite cases and 1 dead at Everest BC

accidents:
  5 frostbite cases (very cold and windy since Sept 8); serious 1 toe and 1 fingertips; one dead before BC


expid: AMAD88301
peakid: AMAD
year: 1988
route1: W Face-NW Ridge (did not reach ridge)
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Hoon-Sang
sponsor: 1988 Korea Alpine Club Kyung Dong O-B Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 1988-09-20
smtdate: 1988-09-27
termdate: 1988-09-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to dangerous stone fall and avalanching
campsites: BC(20/09,4800m),C1.ABC(22/09,5600m),xxx(27/09,6000m)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Adventure Nepal
routememo:
  BC  at Mingbo Glacier moraine
  ABC C1 at Mingbo Glacier snow.

  After C1 established, lot of snow and wind and many snow avalanches which left mountain all rock, so waited for better weather. 25th September 2 members [Hyuk and Jang] to bottom of ridge, but late every morning stonefall and from W Face snow avalanches. Again waited several days for improved conditions. Much equipment from BC and during retreat from BC.


expid: AMAD88302
peakid: AMAD
year: 1988
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Denmark
leaders: Caspar Sutton
sponsor: Danish Himalayan Expedition 1988
ascent1: 58th,59th
bcdate: 1988-10-01
smtdate: 1988-10-11
termdate: 1988-10-24
campsites: BC(01/10,4930m),ABC(05/10,5710m),C1(08/10,6000m),C2(10/10,6300m),Smt(11,19/10)
accidents: Only Hansen frostbite (which will heal)
achievment: 1st Danish ascent on 1st Danish expedition to Himalaya
agency: Ama Dablam Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 4930m above Mingbo
  C1 at arrete tower on SW Ridge.

  Had expected to climb in expedition style but felt very fit and switched to alpine-style. 1st summit team 3 members [Christensen, Hjorth, Smidt] started on 6th, biv 5400m, 7th to ABC. 8th actual climbing started on ridge until were at 6000m and made C1. 9th in C1 resting. 10th to 6300m to C2 (snowhole where they bivouacked). 11th Hjorth stayed at snowhole while other 2 went to summit and returned to C2. 12th and 13th down to BC. 

  3 members [Mathorne, Hansen, Nicolaisen] started up on 9th to ABC from BC. 10th to C1. 11th rest (Nicolaisen little sick from altitude). 12th towards to C2 but Nicolaisen sicker and all down with him to BC. 

  16th Mathorne and Hansen again up to ABC, 17th to C1. 18th to C2 and 19th on top (5:00-10:30 am ascent), to C2 same afternoon and BC 21st. 

  Left BC 24th. Hansen frostbitten toes during summit day (had had frostbite before so toes sensitive). No fixed rope; alpine-style. Smidt left BC 20th to return to studies.


expid: SHA288301
peakid: SHA2
year: 1988
route1: S Ridge from SW
nation: France
leaders: Erick Bourdais
sponsor: Shartse 1988
bcdate: 1988-10-14
smtdate: 1988-10-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to fatal avalanche
campsites: BC(14/10,5300m),C1(16/10,5600m),xxx(21/10,6000m)
accidents: Bourdais fatal accident
agency: Ganesh Himal
routememo:
  BC at Lhotse Shar BC site, east of Island Peak
  C1 at Lhotse Shar Glacier
  High point at 6000m at west side of Col.
   
  While making route to C2 Bourdais had fatal accident; wanted to put C2 at S Col 96220m) of Ch Polu. On 21st Oct Bourdais was hammering piton for rope-fixing when serac fell and caused avalanche; had seen seracs above but were not moving, did not look threatening. Avalanche carried him 200-300 vertical meters. Perrot had just time see avalanche coming and jump aside; not really injured. Climb finished. Body found and dead of broken head. One night had avalanche at C1 and had to hold tent down (22nd Oct); not safe place to be. Seracs were near Col; big avalanches were coming down Lhotse Shar and these sent wind and snow into C1.


expid: AMAD88304
peakid: AMAD
year: 1988
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Jakob Reichen
sponsor: Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 60th
bcdate: 1988-10-16
smtdate: 1988-10-24
termdate: 1988-10-25
campsites: BC(16/10,5000m),Biv1(22/10,5750m),Biv2(23/10,6350m),Smt(24/10)
accidents: None
agency: Lamjung
routememo:
  Ridge not difficult and snow good. Summit push started after 2 days acclimatization climb and rest. Returned to BC 5:00 pm on 24th (had started from BC 1:00 pm on 22nd) and left BC 25th.


expid: AMAD88303
peakid: AMAD
year: 1988
route1: N Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Ivano Regazzoni
sponsor: Swiss Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 1988-10-04
smtdate: 1988-10-14
termdate: 1988-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 5700m due to too much snow and lack of equipment
campsites: BC(04/10,5100m),Biv(14/10,5700m),xxx(14/10,5700m)
accidents: None
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  High point at 5700m by all climbing members.

  No fixed camps above BC but fixed ropes above BC starting 5th Oct and fixed 700m (not steep but much snow). Made biv and then climbing finished: no tent and no sun in -15 degrees Centrigrade plus too much snow on what should be rock ridge for 1st 800m (1m loose snow here). Came down and sent sirdar to Namche for permit to go to normal route but no answer.


expid: LSHR88302
peakid: LSHR
year: 1988
route1: SE Ridge
nation: W Germany
leaders: Werner Hof
sponsor: Siegerland Lhotse Shar Expedition
bcdate: 1988-10-10
smtdate: 1988-10-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to poor health and time running out because Swiss forced delay
campsites: BC(10/10,5300m),C1(26/10,5750m),C2(28/10,6100m),xxx(30/10,6700m)
accidents: None except stomach trouble
agency: Amtrek
routememo:
  BC next to Swiss
  C1 next to Swiss on SE Ridge
  C2 next to Swiss on SE Ridge end on biv.

  Problem with Swiss: didn't want German BC next to them and had taken easiest line on their SE Face which was SE Ridge, where they had put their C1 and C2. Swiss wanted Germans to wait till 6th or 7th Oct when they had reached summit. Germans waited 15 days (Swiss said if Germans started before Swiss finished, Swiss would endanger German camps). Germans trekked to Kalapattar during waiting period. Germans had time only for 21 days so walked daily carrying loads to C1 and C2. One man to Swiss C3 on 25th Oct and on 26th slept there, 27th to C2, slept in C1 and 28th slept there. 29th Oct Swiss said Germans could go to C3 only next day. Between C2 and C3 Hof got stomach trouble. Now time and money running out; one week more on mountain needed.


expid: LSHR88301
peakid: LSHR
year: 1988
route1: SE Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Bruno Jelk
sponsor: Lhotse Expedition 1988 Zermatt
ascent1: 6th
bcdate: 1988-09-23
smtdate: 1988-10-28
smttime: 1255
othersmts: Island Peak (by all members over 5 weeks); had permit for Lhotse, but did not attempt
accidents: Imboden frostbitten nose, toes and fingers but will heal
agency: Adventure Nepal
campsites:
  BC(23/09,5300m),C1(30/09,5750m),C2(03/10,6100m),C3(12/10,6840m),C4(21/10,7500m),Biv(27/10,7800m),Smt(28/10)

routememo:
  BC at north side (base) of Island Peak
  C1 at top of 1st big rocks where glacier starts
  C2 at 1st big icefall (at top of it) on SE Face
  C3 on SE Face
  C4 on SE Face
  Biv at near point where SE Ridge meets SE Face (snowcave).

  1st team [Jelk and Brigger on 20 Oct] turned back at 7500m because of strong wind.

  2nd summit team of Imboden and Ferrari [on 24 Oct] to 8000m where ridge is flat but narrow; turned back because feared fog would come and prevent finding C5 on return. 

  4 days later Imboden and Willi made successful bid. 

  Technically not difficult but altitude problem and necessary to be extremely careful on such an exposed route; above C4 is very steep. "We had enough trouble getting to top of Lhotse Shar." Ridge to Lhotse is very dangerous and difficult cornices and towers at high altitude. No attempt to go to Lhotse or Lhotse Intermediate.

  "Had same problem with Germans" who wanted to climb Swiss fixed ropes; "matter of too many" cause for refusal to let Germans on ropes.


expid: CHOL88301
peakid: CHOL
year: 1988
route1: W Face (to 6300m)
route2: NW Ridge up; W Face down
nation: USA
leaders: Andy Selters
sponsor: 1988 American Cholatse
ascent2: 6th
countries: New Zealand
approach: Tshan Og
bcdate: 1988-10-03
smtdate: 1988-10-22
campsites: BC(03/10,4750m),SeveralBivs,Smt(22/10)
accidents: Only intestinal bug
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  BC at east of Charchang.

  1st attempt via W Face: biv at 17,500 ft at top moraine on 6th Oct. 7th onto glacier to 18,000 ft biv, 8th to 19,500 ft on W Face, 9th to 500 ft below summit when getting late and climb ahead looked difficult and all slightly sick (all 4 men to just above top biv; all but Parker to high point on this push) and returned to high biv. 11th all in BC. 

  Walters and Selters went on up onto NW Ridge starting on 18th with biv (at col SE of Pt 5677) at 18,500 ft; 19th on up to 100-150 ft below top on summit plateau above end of Ridge biv. 22nd to top and down W Face to 19,500 ft platform of 8th Oct and route had been prepared by earlier push; 23rd from 19,500 ft to BC. 

  24th Oct Collins and Parker up from BC to W Face route and bived at 17,500 ft; 25th to 20,000 ft biv; 26th to 20,200 ft and again Parker ill so down to BC.

  1st push had completed W Face in a new route. W Face water ice, other route powder snow and lousy rock.


expid: MAKA88305
peakid: MAKA
year: 1988
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
route2: W Pillar (to 7200m)
route3: W Face (to 6800m)
nation: W Germany
leaders: Hans Eitel
sponsor: International Makalu Expedition
ascent1: 28th
countries: Italy, Mexico, Switzerland
bcdate: 1988-09-21
smtdate: 1988-10-12
smttime: 1900
campsites: BC(21/09,5300m),C1(28/09,6400m),C2(30/09,7000m),C3(7400m),C4(7800m),Smt(12/10)
accidents: Carsolio altitude sickness after summit
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site of higher BC
  C1 at normal route/6500m bottom of West Face
  C3 at Makalu La.

  Patscheider made brief attempt to climb W Face but never actually was on face. Eitel party on normal route from northwest side without success. 2 Mexicans on normal route; Carsolio summited. Troillet and Loretan attempted W Pillar.

  Troillet and Loretan's climbing:
    Arrived at BC 7th Oct. 
    9th to 6200m on small peak above BC. 
    10th to below W Face and climbed couloir to east side of W Pillar and 6700m.
    11th to 7200m on pillar to see conditions and down to BC; snow conditions OK 
       on pillar but winds slab on W Face made it unsafe.
    12th to C1 to bring down Carsolio and returned to BC at night. 
    BC rested and 17th up to couloir to 6700m for 4 hrs. and up again at 5:00 pm; 
       reached 7100m on pillar, retreated in strong wind and BC that midnight.
       18th onwards was strong wind everyday so on 22nd gave up and left BC 24th 
       when porters arrived.

  Patschnieder to only 6800m at big crevasse at bottom of face; did not actually climb on face.

  Elsa and Carlos Carsolio together:

  Climbed point 6170m for acclimatization and spent night on summit (7th Sept). 11th Sept started up Kukuczka route and climbed to 7000m and slept there 2 nights (12-13th Sept) still for acclimatization. Snowfall and poor weather next and rumor there would be another earthquake.
   
  25th Sept started from high BC at 5300m in first summit bid; climbed normal route; 1 night in C1, 1 in C2 and C4 on 28th Sept made bid for summit but very deep snow for breaking trail. Reached 8200m at 6:00 pm and returned to C4 and next day on down to BC rested, small snowfall and wind came and very difficult to climb. 

  2 Spaniards and 2 Mexicans 5th Oct started up again from BC. C1 with Walde. 6th in C2, very windy; Elsa 2 nights, Carlos 5 nights. 11th Oct Carlos up alone, direct to C4. 12th on up in very cold strong wind and reached summit at 7:00 pm, very cold on top. Returned to C4 that night (doesn't know time, too tired). 13th downwards, Spanish gave him oxygen in C2 and to BC same day.


  Letter from Hans Eitel to Miss Hawley - 15 Oct 88

  Report from the expedition.
  High camp Base 5300m on 21 Sept 88. 
  Carlos Elsa Carsolio arrived the camp two weeks before Reinhard Patscheider started the climb on West Face solo.

  26 Sep 88 - Kurt Walde, Claudia, Hans Eitel, Ang Gyalzen Sherpa, depot on 5800m.

  28 Sep 88 - Claudia Inceichen, Hans Eitel, C1 6400m.
  Reinhard Patscheider west face C1 tent on serac, Kurt Walde, N/W C2.

  30 Sep 88 - Claudia Inceichen, Hans Eitel, Ang Gyalzen Sherpa C1 the next day Hans Eitel Camp 2 7000m solo and from C2 back to base camp. Claudia Inceichen and Ang Gyalzen from C1 to base camp back. Carlos and Elsa came back from 8200m.

  From now we have many wind from Makalu La to the top of the mountain.
  Reinhard Pattscheider solo on West Face 7000m, he finished, so E. Loretan and Jean Troillet not coming.

  6 Oct 88 - Reinhard Patscheider started from BC back to KTM. All climbers must wait for better weather. The problem is now only the wind. Carlos, Elsa start again to the mountain.

  7 Oct 88 - Erhard Loretan and Jean Troillet arrived the BC with 5 porters.
  He brings the message I must go home.

  8 Oct 88 - Hans Eitel started with 1 porter to Tumlingtar.


expid: MAKA88303
peakid: MAKA
year: 1988
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Anna Czerwinska
sponsor: Polish Makalu Expedition 1988
ascent1: 29th
countries: Austria, Spain
bcdate: 1988-09-05
smtdate: 1988-10-14
smttime: 1600
othersmts: Climbed Kangchungste (Makalu II) (MAK2-883-02)
accidents: Kolakowski disappeared near summit; Aldaz hepatitis; Kopys frostbitten toes infected
agency: Rover Treks
campsites:
  BC(05/09,5400m),C1(07/09,6000m),C1(12/09,6500m),C2(14/09,6850m),C3(25/09,7400m),C4(03/10,7850m),Smt(14/10)

routememo:
  BC at high BC
  C2 at Chago Glacier
  C3 at Makalu La
  C4 on North Face very near NW Ridge.

  Kukuczka rib is good for one push, but with much snow this not possible. C4 were tents of Spanish and British. After C4 on 3rd Oct down in very strong winds which destroyed C2 and C3. Waited for winds to abate and had to replace camps. Winds low 12 and 13 Oct. 

  2nd summit team started up from BC on 9th Oct and reached C2 on 10th. 11th one decided to descend because sick from heptitis so he descended while other 2 men up to C3. 13th to C4 and 14th to top. Kolakowski seen by his headlamp at 8:00 pm near summit (within 50m of top), then disappeared. Kopys waited for him at C4 till 12:00 noon 15th; wind now very strong and white-out during night so chances of survival very slim. 

  3rd team in C3 could not leave tent because wind so strong on 16th (Kopys had gone to C1 on 15th). 16th 3rd party went down at noon; could not go up because terrible wind (in 3rd party were Kacuga, Kaploniak and Skierski).


expid: MAKA88304
peakid: MAKA
year: 1988
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Miguel Gomez
sponsor: Valencia Makalu 1988
bcdate: 1988-09-12
smtdate: 1988-10-16
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to cold, wind, fatigue and much distance still to cover
campsites: BC(12/09,4850m),C1(15/09,5200m),C2(22/09,5900m),C3(26/09,6500m),xxx(16/10,7200m)
accidents: Nothing serious, but health generally not good
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  BC at Tangmar, yak porters between Shershan and Barun Pokhari
  C1 at small lake north of Barun Pokhari
  C2 between 2 rock ridges on glacier (south of summit)
  C3 just below S Col.

  After C3 established, some snowfall and change of season. All resting at BC several days. Then climbing above C4 snow in place knee deep, some steepness, very windy. 7 days to open route above C3 to 7000m really easy area but snow slowed progress with winds blowing away the track every day. From 7000m up more difficult with small couloirs and rock. Technically more difficult but less snow on steeper area, so easier to move. On 16 Oct deposited food and rope at C4 site but then decided to quit: team tired, very cold and windy, long way still to go. Perhaps on fast alpine-style attack could have succeeded. All members reached C3 and 6 worked on route above C3, but morale not good by mid-October.


expid: MAKA88302
peakid: MAKA
year: 1988
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Josep Aced
sponsor: Expedition Makalu 1988
countries: Andorra, France
bcdate: 1988-09-02
smtdate: 1988-10-01
termdate: 1988-10-14
termnote: Abandoned at 8050m due to bad wind; climbers exhausted after 6 weeks at altitude
othersmts: Attempted Kangchungste (Makalu II) (MAK2-883-01)
campsites: BC(02/09,5200m),C1(06/09,6100m),C2(16/09,7000m),C3(26/09,7400m),C4(30/09,7850m),xxx(01/10,8050m)
accidents: Matas bad frostbite
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  C3 at Makalu La
  C4 at North Face.

  28th Sep Zamora and Canelles reached 7800m to reach C4 site. 1st Oct 3 members to 8050m and back because Matas got bad frostbite fixing a crampon in 1st summit bid. 2nd summit team only to Makalu La and then helped British climber Rick Allen to descend after his accident. 3rd summit team also only to Makalu La and then down helping Mexican climber Carlos Carsolio to descend following summit success and pulmonary edema (he used Spaniard's oxygen from C2 down). After that wind too strong for summit push to succeed. 

  All members reached Makalu La. 2 members (Zamora and Canellas) to summit of Kangchungtse 27th Sep from Makalu La camp via S Ridge.

  French and Andorran members left early for personal (family) reasons.


expid: MAKA88301
peakid: MAKA
year: 1988
route1: Left side of W Face-N Face
nation: UK
leaders: Doug Scott
sponsor: Makalu Expedition
countries: Australia, India, Ireland
bcdate: 1988-08-29
smtdate: 1988-10-01
termdate: 1988-10-07
othersmts: Some peaks between Chago and Pethangtse
accidents: Yates hepatitis and left BC Sep 24; Allen head injuries from avalanche
agency: Amtrek
termnote:
  Abandoned at 8100m due to high wind and avalanche accident/danger, snow, and too many others on mountain at same time

campsites:
  BC(29/08,4700m),ABC(02/09,5500m),Biv1(20/09,6100m),Biv2(21/09,7100m),Biv3(27/09,6100m),Biv4(28/09,6500m),Biv5(29/09,7100m),Biv6(30/09,7800m),xxx(01/10,8100m)

routememo:
  1st push:  BC  at lower BC site
             ABC at higher BC site
             Biv at bottom of Roger Baxter Jones Couloir
             High point at North Face.

  Bivs by Allen and Hinkes.  

  1st biv on 20th Sep by Miller, Smith, Child and Allen. On 22nd went to Makalu La; at same time others to 7000m. Then big snowstorm and weather now cold which meant couloir now dangerous.

  Hinkes and Allen then went to left ridge of couloir, crossed into cwm, bived at 7800m (Spanish C4). On 1st Oct at 4:00 am they went on up and got avalanched. Took 5 days get them off. Winds now strong and route avalanche-prone. Parkin, Scott and Prabhu along with Child, Smith and Miller had gone to Makalu La 29th Sep but wind and snow drove them down. Hinkes and Allen started from ABC 28th Sep. Smith and Child went up on 7th Oct but only to C1.

  "So many others on mountain normal route was like a motorway and not many with any ideas of Himalayan climbing" - Scott.

  West Face impossible: wind slabs and powdered snow.

  Allen fell 400m because unconscious and Hinkes came to him and helped him down. Were at 8100m in summit bid on 1 Oct at 10:00 am. Had been climbing semi-alpine-style using Spanish fixed ropes to C2 and carrying tent (Spanish making their own and summit bid same day). 30 Sept 2 Mexicans had tried for top and planned another try on 3rd or 4th Oct.

  None of this expedition had been on West Face till Allen left today by helicopter.


expid: BARU88301
peakid: BARU
year: 1988
route1: S Ridge via E Col
nation: W Germany
leaders: Ulrich Weber
sponsor: Aachen Baruntse Expedition
bcdate: 1988-09-28
smtdate: 1988-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to lack of morale
campsites: BC(28/09,4700m),C1(07/10,5350m),xxx(17/10,6200m)
accidents: None (except doctor who never reached BC)
agency: Yeti Mountaineering & Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Shershon
  C1 at new high Makalu BC
  High point at 6240m.

  Lost much time waiting for doctor to arrive at BC, which he never did because very ill; he almost died at Nun and this was shock. Doctor reached Nun and then developed high fever for which he took so many pills that his liver stopped functioning and survived only thanks to a trekking doctor.

  Made 2 recces of icefall of Lower Barun Glacier but too dangerous to go through it and decided not to take risk and changed route. Placed high camp near normal site for Makalu high BC. Stayed there 3 days to see if their help needed by Poles on Makalu and did some recce of way to S Ridge to highest point reached in series of recces from high camp. Gave up because hearts weren't in climbing with their doctor's illness, Makalu casualties and winds very strong.


expid: BARU88302
peakid: BARU
year: 1988
route1: SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Gilles Buisson
sponsor: Atalante Baruntse Expedition
bcdate: 1988-10-19
smtdate: 1988-10-27
termdate: 1988-10-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to route difficulty
campsites: BC(19/10,5400m),C1(21/10,6100m),C2(23/10,6600m),xxx(27/10,7000m)
accidents: None
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at West Col
  High point on SE Ridge.

  After C2 came down to BC on 23 and occupied C2 on 26th in summit push. Stopped when saw ridge was very steep sharp and dangerous for such a large group. Lot of wind on ridge; if wanted to finish ridge it would have taken 4-5 more days and technical materials not taken to mountain.

  Crossed Amphu Lapcha 30 Oct.


expid: KANG88301
peakid: KANG
year: 1988
route1: SW Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Masaaki Fukushima
sponsor: Himalaya Dojin Kangchenjunga Expedition
ascent1: 26th
bcdate: 1988-09-15
smtdate: 1988-10-17
smttime: 1010
accidents: None
agency: Cosmo Treks
campsites:
  BC(15/09,5500m),C1(26/09,6170m),C2(29/09,6830m),C3(01/10,7200m),C4(11/10,7800m),C5(12/10,8200m),Smt(17/10)

routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C3 at Great Shelf.

  13th Oct 1st summit bid but route chosen led to very difficult rock at 8350m; Unno and Fukushima returned to C5 and next day to C3. 

  16th Oct Unno and Nima Temba to C5; Fukushima not up again because only 3 bottles oxygen in C5 now. 17th Oct started at 5:20 am, arrived top 10:10 am in fine weather, light wind; descended to C3 on 17th at 5:00 pm and to BC 18th. Climb finished. 

  Miss Kamura to C1 only: "tired." 

  From 15 to 26 Sept spent time in bad weather and trying different routes, 1 to 11 Oct, BC rest.


expid: MAKA87303
peakid: MAKA
year: 1987
route1: NW Ridge (acclimatization rte) (to 6500m)
route2: W Pillar (permit route, did not attempt)
nation: Austria
leaders: Wilfried Studer
sponsor: Mountain Guide Expedition to Makalu
bcdate: 1987-10-11
smtdate: 1987-10-14
termdate: 1987-10-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to bad weather and deep snow on W Pillar route
campsites: BC(11/10,5300m),C1(13/10,6500m),xxx(14,17/10,6500m)
accidents: Studer slight frostbite
agency: Chomalhari Trekking
routememo:
  BC on two glaciers' junction
  C1 on normal route.

  Team first began on normal route for acclimatization before going to W Pillar route (their permit route). French-American team arrived (route permit holders) and demanded Austrians vacate route. After big snowstorm, Austrians abandoned climb not wishing to attemp pillar route with so much snow.

  Planned to go to SE Ridge but Swiss had its permit so interested in W Pillar and to do this acclimatize by going on normal route; also go to Makalu La to observe conditions. 13th Oct went to 6500m on normal route (normal C2) and pitched one tent as acclimatization camp and slept one night. 14th French-US team arrived and sent them off their route. Studer froze his feet in climb to 6500m and left. 17th again up to 6500m by Friedl and Marte and heavy snowfall started. Brought down tent on 18th and big storm continued so 20th left BC to return to KTM. Strong winds started up now also on 18th and these would make W Pillar climb impossible immediately and wanted to take no risk.

  Studer & Morik (who did not climb) left BC 17th Oct.


  Studer - 27 Oct 87

  Rudi Mayerhofer = acting leader of Makalu, at Shakti.

  Studer in KTM 5 days now; some frostbite in toes; leaves Nepal 29 Oct.
  Rest of expedition should arrive KTM 28 or 29 Oct, but snow conditions doubtlessly means delay.

  Report 4 dead on Makalu probably French-US team - ministry has garbled report.


expid: MAKA87301
peakid: MAKA
year: 1987
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Michel Fauquet
sponsor: French Makalu Expedition
countries: Canada, USA
approach: By truck to Hile & air->Tumlingtar
bcdate: 1987-09-17
smtdate: 1987-10-18
termdate: 1987-10-25
termnote: Abandoned at 7550m due to bad weather, broken C2 and porters ordered for arrival at BC on 28th Oct
campsites: BC(17/09,5300m),C1(20/09,6040m),C2(26/09,6600m),C3(16/10,7500m),xxx(18/10,7550m)
accidents: Fauquet down 100m with wind-slab avalanche but not hurt
agency: Sherpa Trekking Service (STS)
routememo:
  BC near junction of glaciers
  C1 at Chago Glacier east of Central Spur
  C2 just below last steep section of glacier below col
  C3 just below Makalu Col.

  After C2 established, down for rest and not all to C2 so far (not necessary to make C3 of no one to C2). Deposit placed at 7500m before camp established and fixed 1000m rope from C2 to C3 (200m above C2 to 200m below 3) for clients, more than normally would put. Started up from C3 on 18th Oct to make C4 but too windy and turned back; impossible to stand up. 

  American and Canadian members got only to 7000m (all got to C2). Fauquet down to BC to set out problem with Austrians who insisted on comming on same route. Now bad snowstorm arrived 19th Oct. Pivot, American and Crosett in C1 during storm and descended on 21st Oct (Americans) and 22nd (Mike with shovels). Stayed in BC one day and made track to go up and reached C1 while Makalu II came down. Again up to C2 on 25th but couldn't find C2 because of avalanche: after 2 hrs probing found one tent under 180m of snow. 26th found 2 more tents and Sherpas came and cleared same rope and oxygen. Descended again while Sherpas up to C3 26th clear camp, which found completely broken.


expid: BARU87301
peakid: BARU
year: 1987
route1: NE Face-N Ridge from E
nation: France
leaders: Andre Mathis
sponsor: French Expedition to Baruntse
bcdate: 1987-10-12
smtdate: 1987-10-17
termdate: 1987-10-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to big snow storm damage and dangerous snow conditions
campsites: BC(12/10,5150m),ABC(14/10,5350m),C1(16/10,5500m),C2(17/10,6000m),xxx(17/10,6000m)
accidents: None
agency: Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
routememo:
  BC  at Barun Glacier near small lake SE 
  ABC at Barun Glacier near "e" of Glacier (on Schneider map)
  C1  at 5500m at moraine west of "G" of Glacier
  C2  due west of point and NNE of Baruntse summit
  High point at C2.

  2 slept in C2 till 19th Oct (2 till 18th) and then down during night of 19-20th when tents completely covered and snow kept falling. Then 1.5-2m deep snow (2m at C2) so not possible to resume climb; in fact had brought down C3 in retreat of 19-20th.


expid: BARU87302
peakid: BARU
year: 1987
nation: France
leaders: Claude Jaccoux
sponsor: Altitude Extreme
termnote: Team never reached mtn
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak
agency: Sherpa Society
routememo:
  Team climbed Mera Peak and then set out for Baruntse, but snow too deep in passes and they turned back without having reached Baruntse.


expid: MAKA87302
peakid: MAKA
year: 1987
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Daniel Anker
sponsor: Swiss Makalu Expedition
bcdate: 1987-09-25
smtdate: 1987-10-13
termdate: 1987-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to strong winds
campsites: BC(25/09,4850m),C1(06/10,6750m),C2(12/10,7300m),C3(13/10,7600m),xxx(13/10,7600m)
accidents: None
agency: Machhapuchare
routememo:
  BC at 4850m below Barun Pokhari
  C1 at 6750m on saddle of SE Ridge
  C2 on the ridge
  C3 just under black gendarme
  High point on SE Ridge.

  Tried SE Ridge and reached saddle; put tent here and went down for rest. Most times up to saddle and on one day to 7300m to 7600m next day and again to BC (on 14th). Then came heavy snowfall. 22nd again to saddle but winds very strong and decided to abandon attempt. Everyday strong wind; they appeared not to be going to abate. Van Almen had stayed down.


expid: JANU87302
peakid: JANU
year: 1987
route1: N Face (btw Japanese ramp and rock wall)
route2: N Face (Japanese ramp)
nation: France
leaders: Pierre Beghin
sponsor: Kumbhakarna French Adventure to Jannu (Kumbhakarna)
ascent2: 17th
countries: Spain
approach: Dankuta
bcdate: 1987-09-23
smtdate: 1987-10-25
smttime: 1230
termdate: 1987-10-27
accidents: None
agency: Sherpa Trekking Service (STS)
campsites:
  BC(23/09,4600m),C1(26/09,5600m),C2(29/09,6300m),Biv(08/10,6600m),xxx(11/10,6800m); Biv1(22/10,6300m),Biv2(23/10,6600m),Biv3(24/10,7300m),Smt(25/10)

routememo:
  BC at north right bank of Jannu Glacier
  C1 at 5600m top of first pillar under N face
  C2 at cave (not on NZ route but near rock wall right of NZ route).

  First tried new route to right of New Zealand route on North Face direct to top. On 6th Oct started summit push from BC and on 8th passed 2nd serac above cave and reached 6800m, then down because "that was enough" (one tired, one sick) risk of frostbite when tired. 

  After that changed route to try New Zealand route and Beghin and Decamp upon 21st to C1, 22nd biv at 6300m above Wall of Shadows, 23rd 6800m in crevasse below big snow slopes leading to ridge, 24th to biv on ridge at 7300m and 25th summit at 12:00 noon. Few steps on ridge, not difficult but must be very careful. Back to same biv and 26th to C1. 24th had lot wind and was quite cold. Alpine-style ascent from C1 in final summit push on altered route.


  Marsigny - 28 Oct 87

  Attempt of central route N Face reached 6800m 11 Oct by Eric Decamp, Pierre Beghin, Marsigny.

  Fixed rope to 6300m to C2 (1st ice cave)
  Made 3 camps, 2 in ice cave
  3 nights at C3 6600m
  Very cold so down to C2
  On 11th and to BC 12th
  Pierre Beghin and Decamp want to try Dutch route (NZ route)
  (left BC 18 Oct wth 2 Dutch) - stay KTM to 4 Nov.


expid: YALU87301
peakid: YALU
year: 1987
route1: S Face
nation: USA
leaders: Magda King Nos Loppe
sponsor: First American Yalungkang Expedition
countries: Spain
approach: Hile->Taplejung
bcdate: 1987-08-30
smtdate: 1987-10-12
termdate: 1987-10-19
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to Farkas frostbite and lack of food supplies
campsites: BC(30/08,5400m),C1(15/09,6250m),C2(20/09,6400m),C3(30/09,7000m),C4(10/10,7700m),xxx(12/10,8100m)
accidents: Farkas frostbitten feet and toes
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  BC at normal BC site (same as Belgians and Australians)
  C1 at top of 3rd of 3 Steps
  C2 1/3 way up 2nd Icefall
  C3 at top of 2nd Icefall
  C4 on shelf upper end of Great Shelf
  High point on South Face.

  Quite a bit of bad weather in early Sept. Alpine-style above C2 with cache at 7000m. Had intended to put 7200m but that would have been too far above C2. Started summit bid from BC 7 Oct and snow had eliminated C1. Oct 9 to C3, Oct 10th made C4. 11th Ongchu Sherpa, Farkas and Narayan Shrestha left for top while King stayed in camp since wind had taken way her down jacket. Stopped by bad snow conditions and crevasses before reached Austrian-German couloir and turned back at about 7900m and slept at C4. 12 Oct Farkas and Narayan again towards summit by new route directly up South Face (right of 1984 and Polish-Spanish climb) and got to 8100m. Farkas fell about 300m bouncing down South Face and climb finished. Fall did no damage but sometime during these attempts Farkas got frostbite in fingers and toes and possibly will lose tips of these. Took long time for him to get down and they stuck on mountain when began snowing on 15th and now food almost gone because 3 weeks supply stolen before reached BC. Stuck in Belgiums C1 tent 15th and arrived at BC 20th (had waited 2 days for snow to settle).

  Smith brothers and Welch left 5 Oct out of boredom. Did go briefly to C1 but not climbers.


expid: KANS87301
peakid: KANS
year: 1987
route1: SW Face (to right of main peak)
nation: Belgium
leaders: Alain Hubert
sponsor: Belgian Expedition to Kangchenjunga South
approach: Hile->Taplejung
bcdate: 1987-09-23
smtdate: 1987-10-14
termdate: 1987-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to loss of all gear at C2 during bad snow storm
campsites: BC(23/09,5500m),C1(28/09,6200m),C2(05/10,7200m),xxx(14/10,8000m)
accidents: None
achievment: 1st Belgian attempt
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 just below icefall - for acclimatization
  C2 on Great Shelf
  High point near top of Great Couloir.

  Hubert attempted to solo South Summit on Oct 14. Forced to bivouac at 8000m by strong winds and heavy pack. On second summit bid Oct 22, Hubert went to C2 but could find no trace of camp. Huge snowstorm hit Oct 19-20 and either blew away or buried C2. All Hubert's down clothing and food for summit bid was lost, so climb finished. Hubert intended to descend from Great Shelf by paraglider, but too was lost at C2.

  Hubert tried summit in one day from BC but lost his way in the night on South Face and biv about 7000m - 15 kg rucksack too heavy to go in one day. Was good weather: improved as they arrived at BC. Hubert left BC 2:00 am 14 Oct and biv 10:00 pm; had hoped reach top midday 15th and return to C2 in solo climb to top and next teammates at C1. Was to use parapente from C2, but too heavy rucksack and too windy so 15th all down (other 2 were already in C2 -a rrived there day before in support). Down to BC on 15th. On Great Shelf there was deep snow. Hubert again left BC 22nd after big storm without support of others. When arrived at C2 no camp could be found and all his very warm clothes food parapente and other essential gear: all under very deep snow or blown away by storm. So climb finished and left BC 23 Oct. C1 also disappeared (1 tent here, 2 at C2).


expid: KANG87302
peakid: KANG
year: 1987
route1: N Face (Scott 1979 rte)
nation: Australia
leaders: James Van Gelder
sponsor: Australian Kangchenjunga N Face Expedition
approach: Hile->Ghunsa (not via Taplejung)
bcdate: 1987-09-01
smtdate: 1987-10-10
termdate: 1987-10-23
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to cold, wind and loss of fixed ropes
campsites: BC(01/09,5000m),C1(14/09,5600m),C2(22/09,5900m),C3(27/09,6500m),C4(09/10,7100m),xxx(10/10,7500m)
accidents: Tremble and Brand-Maher altitude sickness
agency: Kunga (Nima)
routememo:
  BC at site Pangpema - normal site
  C1 at Kangchenjunga Glacier (temporary camp)
  C2 at normal site above 1st icefall
  C3 above 1st ice cliff (no debris of earlier camps seen)
  C4 at North Ridge just before steep section with a snow rope ("bottom of the castle")
  High point at North Ridge.

  Fixed rope from C3 to North Ridge and down to BC for rest - 1-6 Oct. Trimble and Van Gelder up again on 7th to C2, 8th C3 and 9th to C4 on ridge having overcome all difficulties. 10th up ridge few hundred more meters when Trimble got altitude sickness and turned down for 5 days at BC before trying again beginning on 17th, but on 17th weather looked bad and was for 48 hours 18-19th. Up again on 21st and got to C2 at 8:00 pm, spent 3 hours digging out sleeping bags and took whole next day to dig out C2. 23rd up towards C3 in very deep snow and found avalanche had wiped all ropes on ice cliff and this last straw. Didn't have the equipment to fix new lines. Now 5 days of very high wind had come and not safe in cold and wind.

  Did tests on viscosity of blood and changes that take place with altitude which shows blood definitely does thicken; tested drug that thins blood effectively.

  Found G. O. Dyhrenfurth's ice axe and remains of his Sherpas who died in avalanche (pre-war clothing and small bones). 


  Letter from Norman Dyhrenfurth - 25 Nov 1987

  Chettan was crushed by a huge ice avalanche on May 8, 1930, and after more than an hour of artificial respiration he was buried near C2. My father's old ice-axe was indeed placed on his grave! Perhaps a recent avalanche brought his remains to the surface, and broke the ice axe as well. What a strong coincidence! I certainly look forward to receiving the two pieces. Knowing of no other climber climber killed at that place, it certainly must be Chettan.


expid: EVER87302
peakid: EVER
year: 1987
route1: N Face (Great Couloir)
nation: USA
leaders: Scott Fischer
sponsor: American Everest N Face Expedition 1987
bcdate: 1987-08-05
smtdate: 1987-10-15
termdate: 1987-10-27
termnote: Abandoned at 8500m due to storms
accidents: None (acclimatization good)
campsites:
  BC(05/08,5200m),ABC(09/08,5600m),C1(14/08,5900m),C2(02/09,6900m),C3(18/09,7500m),C4(09/10,8100m),xxx(15/10,8500m)

routememo:
  C1 to C2 is long hard, dangerous climb (from avalanches, so climbed at night). Bad weather intervened between C2 to C3's establishments. C3 to C4 intervals of bad weather and rope fixing; fixed total 5000 ft. 

  1st summit bid 15th by Michael Graber and Mimi Stone from C4: reached 8500m and then driven back by winds. 

  2nd bid left C3 on 17th Oct, got to C3 and there big storm came. 

  3rd summit team of Schunk and Sherpa decided not to try at all; storm gave 7 ft of snow at C2 and tore out fixed lines, all tents in C1 and ABC buried in deep snow, so end of climb.

  15 Americans total team.


expid: ANN186402
peakid: ANN1
year: 1986
route1: N Face (French rte)
nation: Poland
leaders: Jerzy Kukuczka
sponsor: Polish Winter Annapurna Expedition
ascent1: 15th
countries: Italy
bcdate: 1987-01-18
smtdate: 1987-02-03
smttime: 1600
accidents: None but Palkiewicz had heart condition and stayed BC only 1 week as precaution
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(18/01,4200m),Biv1(20/01,4900m),Biv2(21/01,5600m),C3(22/01,6100m),Biv3(30/01,6500m),C4(30/01,6800m),C5(01/02,7400m),Smt(03/02)

routememo:
  BC   at normal site
  Biv1 at normal C1 site
  Biv2 at normal C2 site on 2nd plateau
  C3   at normal C3 site
  C4   at normal C4 site
  C5   at left of normal C5 site (300m left).

  Weather changed 1st of Feb with cloud and snowfall.

  20th Jan started up from BC 3 members and made camp at C3 site, slept there on 22 Jan, on 23rd up 100m and then down to BC because Wanda not well and snow conditions bad (much fresh loose snow) and weather changing. Slept 23rd in BC. 2 members made C2 at 5600m on 23rd after 1 night biv at 4900m while made C1. 27th 3 members to C1 joining (Wanda and Michel). 28th 4 members to C2 while Michel descended. 29th same 4 people to C3, 30th traversed into couloir on very dangerous difficult hard ice with snow avalanche carrying stones and ice down couloirs and biv at 6500m near couloir; that night tent broken by falling stones and 31st to C4.

  1st Feb 2 members not fully acclimatized and down to BC while and 2 members [Kukuczka and Hajzer] up to C5 in snowfall and 30-40m visibility up very hard ice like glass. 2 Feb tired so postponed ascent till 3 Feb. On 2 Feb 40cm snow fell; stayed on C2 (higher up wind blew it away). 3rd Feb after 5 hrs cooking started for top at 7:00 am. 3rd Feb half-meter fresh snow 2000m below summit but high up snow did not stay. In desent very big problem: on 3rd Feb reached C5 at 10:00 pm because extreme difficult to see way, couldn't find traverse for some time on 4th Feb, but did follow route eventually; slept in C3 on 4th and BC on 5th. 

  2 members [Wanda and Wielicki] up from BC 6th Feb; to C4 on 8th Feb, but on 9th down again because of bad weather and Wanda not feeling strong. 10th Feb all in BC and climb finished.


expid: ANN186401
peakid: ANN1
year: 1986
route1: S Face (Spanish rte)
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Daniel Anker
sponsor: Swiss Annapurna I Winter Expedition
bcdate: 1986-11-12
smtdate: 1986-11-30
termnote: Abandoned at 5300m due to Brinkmann's poor health
campsites: BC(12/11,4200m),ABC(28/11,5200m),xxx(30/11,5300m)
agency: Maya Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at foot of northeast side of Hiunchuli
  ABC just below South Face of Annapurna I
  High point at beginning of face.

  With Brinkmann sick, Anker tried to see condition of climb and went alone to 5300m and then turned back because too heavy for him to carry alone. Anker had gotten to 6500m in acclimatization climb towards Fluted Peak but Brinkmann tried to go up on Annapurna I three times but never felt well. Had originally planned to be team of 4 but 1 had accident only 2 weeks before departure from Switzerland (other had accident 1 year before).


  2 British back from Hiunchuli - 21 Dec 986

  2 carried loads to ABC high on glacier and slept at least one night 26/7 Nov. Rene didn't acclimatize and snowfall on 1 Dec decided then to abandon attempt. Daniel went up and cleared gear and was in Dobang on 8th.

  For South face attempt - were not sure which line to take.

  Had originally been 4-man team but only 2 actually came and had no climbing Sherpa. Rene hadn't been to Nepal before and was "a bit overwhelmed by it all."

accidents:
  Brinkmann ill for several days in acclimitization period of late Nov-early Dec (not altitude sickness)


expid: DHA186401
peakid: DHA1
year: 1986
route1: NE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Cho Jung-Sul
sponsor: 1986-87 Korean Himalaya Winter Dhaulagiri I Expedition
bcdate: 1986-11-24
smtdate: 1986-12-25
termnote: Abandoned at 8025m due to frostbite and weather (especially high winds)
campsites: BC(24/11,4700m),C1(02/12,5400m),C2(06/12,6700m),C3(22/12,7400m),xxx(25/12,8025m)
agency: Adventure Nepal
routememo:
  BC at usual site
  C2 on NE Ridge
  C3 on NE Ridge
  High point at NE Ridge.

  Route not via N Col because this way very difficult with many crevasses so climbed slghtly west of col. After C2 established, very strong wind and snow almost waist deep with tents broken and supplies lost. 2 weeks of bad weather - then good weather and 2 summit attacks on 24th and 25th Dec by Chung and Sirdar Ang Dorje. On 24th to 7800mm and on 25th to 8025m, but then very strong winds and very cold so turned back; somewhat frostbitten so their climb finished.

  Chung and Ang Dorje frostbitten fingers and toes on 25th. Kim worse frostbitten toes 7 and 8 Dec and then to BC and Marpha for rest of expedition (took 3 days to Marpha because of deep snow). Then 1 coolie got frostbite. No illness or accidents although one snow avalanche almost covered 3 members.

  Ang Phurba said he was sick and returned KTM early but really left for some other reason.

accidents:
  Ang Dorje frostbitten fingers & toes on Dec 25; Kim frostbitten toes Dec 7-8 (to BC and Marpha for rest of expedition); no illness and accidents although snow avalanche almost covered 3 members


expid: DHA186402
peakid: DHA1
year: 1986
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Enric Lucas
sponsor: Catalan Dhaulagiri Winter Expedition
bcdate: 1986-11-27
smtdate: 1986-12-22
termdate: 1986-12-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to illness and lack of food supplies
campsites: BC(27/11,4300m),Biv1(05/12,6000m),Biv2(22/12,7000m),xxx(22/12,7000m)
accidents: 2 members altitude sickness; nothing else
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  BC at below normal site inside big ice cave with rock walls
  Biv1 on North Face near NE Ridge
  Biv2 on NE Ridge
  High point on NE Ridge.

  First went to N Col but many crevasses and so followed Korean direct route and to 6000m then down because heavy snow and slight wind. 9th Dec again to 6000m but 4 days wait because again snow and again to BC. 21 Dec up again but at 7000m Joan got a little altitude sickness so down to BC. Now had used most of food and fuel supplies but weather beautiful. No fixed ropes by this team had used Koreans ropes through badly broken crevassed area. Had only 500 kg loads on approach march.


expid: HIME86401
peakid: HIME
year: 1986
route1: W Ridge-SW Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Jozef Stepien
sponsor: Himalaya Winter Expedition 1986-87 Himalchuli
bcdate: 1986-12-13
smtdate: 1986-12-29
termdate: 1986-12-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m because no one left to climb
campsites: BC(13/12,3900m),C1A(15/12,5000m),C1B(21/12,4800m),C2(27/12,5600m),xxx(29/12,6200m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC   west of Himalchuli NW Summit near source of Myagdi khola
  C1A on West Ridge
  C1B at 4800m below big wall well protected
  C2  on top of meeting of West and South Ridge to-from SW Ridge
  High point at plateau.

  Moved C1 to slightly lower site because of strong wind at first site; tried to move it on 18th Dec, but "broken" weather then and succeeded on 21st; 500m fixed rope from C1 to C2 because S side of the W Ridge was difficult. Had big Christmas at BC and then up again and made C2. On 29th put 150m fixed rope above C2 and reached 6200m on top of 1st serac barrier and slept in C2. 30th Dec planned to rest and make C3 on 31st but weather not good (wind and cold) on 30th and started down; past C1 when accident [fatal fall] occurred on W Ridge very sharp ridge but really easy terrain. Klincewicz and Panejko were only climbers feeling well and with him gone, no partner for Panejko to climb with since Barancewicz and Trzeciakowski not high climbers.

accidents:
  Klincewicz fell 800-1000m from 4700m in easy terrain, lost his balance, fell into big couloir, many bones broken (carried down 500m and doctor met him there but died about 2 pm); no other problems


expid: MAKA86303
peakid: MAKA
year: 1986
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Cesare Cesa Bianchi
sponsor: Cesa Bianchi Makalu 1986
bcdate: 1986-09-13
smtdate: 1986-10-13
termdate: 1986-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to strong winds beginning and time running out
accidents: None
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
campsites:
  BC(13/09,4900m),ABC(17/09,5500m),C1(21/09,6700m),C2(23/09,7400m),C3(05/10,7800m),Biv(14/10,8000m),xxxx(8000m)

routememo:
  BC  near Barun Pokhari (took son to BC)
  ABC slightly north of glaciers' junction
  C1  at beginning of steep section below Makalu La
  C2  at Makalu La
  C3  on NW Ridge on small col Messner's C3
  High point at North Face.

  Between making C2 and C3 was bad snowstorm and down to BC. Again in BC after C3 for resting and slow ascent by Cesa Bianchi and 1 Sherpa to C3. On 14th De Benedetti to C2 and next day down by ski from C2 to moraine on his first time in Himalaya. Cesa Bianchi turned down at 8000m after French expedition's Sherpas had taken his cooker for their own use at C3 on 13th and 14th, so too dangerous to go above 8000m without liquids and also had spent bad night of 13 and 14 Oct and furthermore Cesa Bianchi alone above 7800m for first time to be 8000m. Cesa Bianchi to BC on 16th and no further attempt possible. Problems of 13-14 Oct, strong winds beginning and time running out.


  Vittorio Genna:

  Stays now in KTM. Rescue helicopter flight to KTM because sickness.
  Expedition returns 26 Oct; Genna goes home by 15 Oct.


expid: MAKA86301
peakid: MAKA
year: 1986
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Reinhold Messner
sponsor: Messner Makalu & Lhotse Expeditions
ascent1: 24th
countries: France, Switzerland
approach: Tumlingtar->Shipton Pass->Barun Glacier (BC)
bcdate: 1986-08-29
smtdate: 1986-09-26
smttime: 1130
termdate: 1986-09-28
othersmts: Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-863-01)
campsites: BC(29/08,5500m),C1(03/09,6600m),C2(19/09,7400m),C3(20/09,7800m),Smt(26/09)
accidents: Frostbitten fingers of doctor
routememo:
  BC at glaciers' meeting
  C1 at 1955 French route
  C2 at Col.

  Had 2 C2s: 1st one above col in hope to go to top from it; pitched it 10th Sept but could make no summit bid because heavy snowfall and when returned it had been totally destroyed. At time of high climb, 2 [Messner and Kammerlander] reached 8000m on 21 Sept, but too slow and turned back at 8000m and down to BC, passing De Marchi and Ducroz below col and they reached 8400m on French route, not summit itself [on 23 Sept]. 

  Messner, Kammerlander and Mutschlechner started up on 24th Sept from BC to C1; 25th to col's C3; 26th left C3 when sun reached col and followed direct route of Ruedi and Wielicki to top before noon in good condition.

  Kammerlander skied from about 7500m down to end of glacier at about 5800m.


  Ministry of Tourism via M Acharya - 27 Sep 86

  Messner summits Makalu 11:30 am 26th
  Started from C3 6:00 am and back by 1:30 pm
  Kammerlander and Mutschlechner with him
  3 in BC today 
  Good health


  Paoletti - 21 Sep 86

  Messner and Kammerlander on at 8000m but turned back by deep snow and returning to BC (probably 22nd) and stay there 2-3 days and then try again. 
  Yesterday C3 7800m.
  All are well.
  Too deep snow - too dangerous said Messner.
  Leaves BC about 30 Sept - 1 Oct after summit.
  Gabriel wants to go to Lhotse.
  BC not radio - no new magazines from him.


  De Marchi - 8 May 88 

  De Marchi reached 8400m very near summit, then turned back because it was getting dark and difficult ridge above.


expid: MAKA86304
peakid: MAKA
year: 1986
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge-N Face
nation: France
leaders: Raymond Renaud
sponsor: Makalu 1986 French Expedition Raymond Renaud
bcdate: 1986-09-15
smtdate: 1986-10-13
termdate: 1986-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to winds and exhaustion of team
agency: International/Alpine
campsites:
  BC(15/09,4850m),C1(17/09,5200m),C2(19/09,5700m),C3.ABC(23/09,6200m),C4(25/09,6950m),C5(02/10,7400m),C6(13/10,8000m),xxx(13/10,8000m)

routememo:
  BC at "Hillary BC"
  C1 on moraine of Chago Glacier below Messner
  C2 at end of moraine, below icefall of Chago Glacier
  ABC/C3 at Chago Glacier
  C4 on steep face to Makalu La
  C5 at Makalu La
  C6 on NW Ridge
  High point on North Face.

  After 13th Oct, strong, very cold wind and not possible to go higher. Renard waited in C5 till 17th Oct and then down when winds continued.

  Pasang Norbu same frostbitten toes on 13 Oct but will heal; kitchen boy sick, went down to village and became unconscious but still alive; Wood cutter for kitchen (Kancha Gurung?) died below BC (became sick at BC); no other problems.

  Collet used oxygen because of blood condition but not seriously ill - used as preventive measure.

accidents:
  Pasang Norbu frostbitten toes on Oct 13 but will heal; kitchen boy sick, went down to village and became unconscious but still alive; woodcutter for kitchen died below BC; no other problems


expid: MAKA86302
peakid: MAKA
year: 1986
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
route2: W Pillar (to 6700m)
nation: Poland
leaders: Krysztof Pankiewicz
sponsor: Himalayan Expedition Makalu 1986
ascent1: 23rd
countries: Austria, Switzerland
bcdate: 1986-09-10
smtdate: 1986-09-24
smttime: 1545
termdate: 1986-10-21
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(10,16/09,5400m),MessnerC1(21/09,6600m),Biv2(22/09,7400m),Biv3(23/09,7850-7900m),Smt(24/09); ...C3(04/10,7400m),Biv(13/10,8000m),xxx(8000m)

routememo:
  C2 at Makalu La (2 tents)
  C3 at side of NW Ridge (left by summiters of 24 Sept).

  Wielicki, Ruedi and Oelz intended to follow Kukuczka variant (a pillar) but difficult and dangerous with lot of snow and have to make big traverse to normal route so soon decided to go via normal route. Wielicki climbed with Oelz and Ruedi who joined Wielicki on 14 Sept at bottom of Pillar. 3 up Pillar to 6700m on 17 Sept, Oelz not feeling well and down. Ruedi and Wielicki to Makalu and down to BC (and after this expedition decided not to use Pillar). 21 Sept Wielicki led all the way through deep snow: left biv 3 at 7:15 am and was on top 3:45 pm had left Ruedi on last slope 50-60m below top and Ruedi could have been on top in 15-20 mins. Wielicki reached tent 7:00 pm but Ruedi never came. Messner saw traces of Ruedi on summit.

  Ruedi died of altitude sickness - apparently spent night of 24th in snow cave at 8200m and next day probably fell. Messner arrived at his C3 that day, saw Ruedi and sent Sherpas to Ruedi and found him dead, sitting 30m below Wielicki tent on trail to Makalu La.

  BC(10/09,5400m),MessnerC1(21/09,6600m),Biv2(22/09,7400m),Biv3(23/09,7850-7900m),
    Smt(24/09)


  Pankiewicz group attempt:

  Makalu had lot of snow (deep snow) which is not for everybody. Leader said would stop climb 20 Oct so to return KTM 27-8-9 Oct (leave Delhi 6 Nov). Probably Wanda will go to 7900m with 2-3 others and thence alone to summit. Wielicki left BC 1 Oct to go to Annapurna I with Kukuczka.

  13th Oct Rutkiewicz and Pankiewicz started from Makalu La to reach C3 or with Cesa Bianchi to reach his deposit onto make new camp. At 7650m Pankiewicz turned back because of wind and had had pneumonia in Sept. Rutkiewicz, Cesa Bianchi and French expedition's 2 Sherpas together reached 7950m [8000m] where Sherpas pitched French C6. Cesa Bianchi did not find his cache so all slept in French tent (C3 apparently destroyed). 14th Oct fierce, very cold wind: all 4 down to Makalu La (Wanda wanted to move Ruedi's body but Sherpas refused and 4 needed for trek, so body still sitting 50m below Pole's C3). Climbing finished: wind terrifying on 14th.

  BC(10/09,5400m),C1(20/09,6400m),C2(23/09,7950m),C3(04/10,7400m),
    Biv(13/10,8000m),xxx   

  Jakubowski had stomach trouble and left BC 10 Oct. Pankiewicz had pneumonia in early-mid Sept. No other problems in Oct.

  Except Jakubowski and Serafin, all Polish members reached Makalu La and spent at least one night there.


  Marcel Ruedi & Oswald Oelz to Ross Munro, Time-life - 29 Sept 1986

  That is what happened to Marcel Ruedi in March he was in third place in the world cup of 8000m peaks. He ws normal butcher, he led a regular life, trained, but had a normal family, everything, and just in his free time went to the 8000m peaks and that put him under pressure. Although he acclimatized very rapidly to altitude, this time it was too short. I mean, we left Zurich on the seventh of Sept on the 18th we were already at 7000m, and Marcel went to 7500m and that is just not enough time even for the best to acclimatize, We both felt sick and so we both went down to base camp. I still didn't feel good and I told Marcel, its too early for me. Marcel felt good after a short time and went with Wielicki (starting at 7700m) and they climbed to the summit (arriving there 4 pm, Sept 24). He was extremely strong and very very highly motivated. But I am sure that in the last stages of the ascent he developed severe, acute mountain sickness, particularly cerebral edema, which leads to bad judgement and things like that and that is why he bivouacked on the way down, at 8200m. (Wielicki descended to 7900m).

  He survived the night... (on the morning of the 25th, Messner was at 7400m and saw Reudi moving slowly downwards, but later in day Messner saw no movement) but after that he had used up all his reserves and when (on Sept 25) Reinhold found him dead, he was at 7800m, (on a gently sloping plateau) and had some foamy blood coming out of his mouth, what is for me a sign of high altitude pulmonary edema.

  Stone dead, he had bloody foam coming out of his mouth, which means for me that in the final stages he died of pulmonary edema. The problem on Makalu is that it's a long, long way back. Here was a guy who was so strong that you thought he could never be stopped. It was bad judgement, a bad idea.

  (apparently the body was simply left where it lay)

  He made sausages. He was an enthusiastic butcher, or charcutier. Ruedi was much stronger than me, he was an extremely strong man, but he did two and a half weeks after leaving Zurich, having climbed one of the highest peaks in the world this is by all means unreasonably, that is asking for trouble. He wanted to go to Makalu as quickly as possible so he could go to Everest and Lhotse. and then there would have been only two left.


  Oelz - 30 Sept 86

  Messner to Oelz by BC radio 29 Sept:

  24th Ruedi and Wielicki: reached summit at 4:00 pm; had climbed from 7700m. Wielicki back to 7900m and Ruedi to 8200m that evening (tent at 7900m).

  25th: Messner reached Mak La at 9:00 am and saw Ruedi (descending). Later that day saw no movement and saw Ruedi dead on 26th between 7750m and 7800m. Ruedi apparently took foam from mouth which tells Oelz pulmonary edema. Body left where it was.


  Min of Tourism via Acharya - 27 Sept 86

  Ruedi and Krzystopf Wielicki reached summit via NW side 24 Sept. Wielicki returned to C3 (7900m) but Ruedi bivouacked at 8200m that night - which descending from biv next am, Ruedi died near C3. No further details. Wielicki good health.


  Oelz - 29 Sept 86

  Ruedi and Wielicki left BC at 5400m for summit bid on 21 Sept, 2 weeks after Ruedi left Zurich. Ruedi had gone 7400m with Wielicki 17 Sept and to BC same day. Started up again on 21st from BC.

  Oelz left BC 22 Sept; had fever and had not acclimatized well from 7000m with Ruedi and Wielicki on 17th.

  Oelz leaves Nepal tomorrow.

accidents:
  Ruedi died on descent from summit. Jakubowski stomach trouble and left BC Oct 10; Pankiewicz pneumonia in early-mid Sep; no other problems in Oct


expid: JANU86301
peakid: JANU
year: 1986
route1: S Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Terry Tremble
sponsor: Australian Army Alpine Expedition to Khumbakarna (Jannu)
countries: New Zealand, UK
bcdate: 1986-09-03
smtdate: 1986-10-31
termdate: 1986-11-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6950m due to 1 member's death
campsites:
  BC(03/09,4500m),C1(12/10,6100m),Biv1(28/10,6150m),Biv2(29/10,6400m),Biv3(30/10,6600m),Biv4(31/10,6950m),xxx(31/10,6950m)

routememo:
  BC  at 4500m at Yamatari Glacier
  Biv on 28 Oct at 6100m at lower plateau
  Biv on 29 Oct at 6400m at South Ridge
  Biv at 6600m at South Ridge
  Biv at 6900-7000m at upper plateau (French C5)
  High point at 6950m at French C5.

  Put up tent at 6100m for cache of food and gear, slept there two nights between 10 and 15th Oct. Before this it snowed and rained all the time: did some acclimatization trips in region and went up the route a bit. This tent destroyed in snowstorm 17th or 18th Oct. Recovered only few items there so descended, got more gear and made another dump at about same altitude in snow cave 20th Oct and descended immediately for rest before summit push. 23 Oct reached this place and found everything taken away by avalanche. Down again and to Ghunsa where met French Nepal Peak expedition who gave food and back up on 28th Oct.

  About 31 Oct all 3 members reached 6900-7000m and during that night, when planned to go for summit, Eggerton's health deteriorated: was very tired, vomiting, crying out for oxygen and water, so had to take him down. Got to 6400m where Eggerton collapsed and died. "We couldn't get him down fast enough" - died on the ropes. Body impossible to carry down so swung it over steep crevassed area and sent it down into crevasses.


  NZAC Bulletin (Don French) - March 1985

  The expedition was called "the Australian Army Jannu Expedition." Terry Tremble, of Melbourne, was the leader with Keith Egerton, also of Melbourne, and myself as the team members. Jannu, also know as Kumbukarna, is a 7710m peak in eastern Nepal near Kangchenjunga. We each contributed approximately NZ$5000 (including flights) with the NZAC also contributing $300 to expenses. Fairydown (Australia) assisted Terry with clothing and a sleeping bag which he found excellent.

  The approach consisted of eleven days walking of which only two could be considered to be "leach days." We used 22 porters all being paid Rs 34 per day (one trekking party was paying Rs 100 per day). Our base camp was established in the Yamatri valley on Sept 4 1986.

  A total of three attempts were made on the mountain's southwest ridge (the original French route). The first was abandoned due to deteriorating weather. The second, with its superior weather, unfortunately ended when our dump, from the previous attempt, was found to be buried by an avalanche. The dump had contained our full supply of mountain food plus a few items clothing, ice hammers, stove and fuel and seventeen "Mars Bars." Fortunately we were able to intercept a passing French expedition in Ghunsa (a important village one days walk from base camp) who gave us enough mountain food for another attempt.

  This attempt commenced on October 26th when we climbed to the C2 site. The following day we climbed through to our neve camp at 6000m. Col des Juenes was gained then continued up to Tete du Butoir, 6450m for our third night. We experienced a lot of cornicing on this day. The fourth day saw us climb over Tete de la Dentelle and onto the edge of a plateau known as the Throne. We were confined to camp for two days here due to high winds. During a lull I was able to climb to 7000m on the summit block to establish our high point. Unfortunately Keith became ill, so on November 1st we descended. Keith died from pulmonary edema after just a few hours of descent.

  Keith's death was the thirteenth this autumn in the Nepal Himal. He was very well known in Australian climbing circles and by many New Zealanders who have visited the Arapiles. Keith was a member of the NZAC.

  With alpine/lightweight style ascents in the Himalaya you might be able to get more trips to the dollar, but this is at the sacrifice of safety and success. One has to balance these sacrifices against cost and ethics. I doubt if our expedition would have had success if other techniques were employed. Unfortunately our earlier ventures onto the mountain were hampered by poor weather, so considerable time had to be spent at base camp waiting for the monsoon to pass.

accidents:
  Oct 31 all 3 members reached 6900-7000m & during that night, when planned to go for summit, Eggerton's health deteriorated (was very tired, vomiting, crying out for oxygen, water)


expid: LSHR86301
peakid: LSHR
year: 1986
route1: S Face-SE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Manuel Casas
sponsor: Spanish Expedition to Lhotse Shar
bcdate: 1986-09-20
smtdate: 1986-10-28
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to Lopez's fall (team were old friends)
campsites: BC(20/09,5250m),C1(28/09,5200m),C2(10/10,6250m),C3(22/10,6800m),C4(28/10,7400m),xxx(28,30/10,7400m)
agency: Annapurna Treks
routememo:
  BC at 5250m right side of Lhotse Shar Glacier near East Face of Island Peak
  C1 at 5200m at 200m above col 5700m north of Island Peak
  C2 at 6250m on ridge south of SE Face (same ridge as C2)=ridge on S Face
  C3 at 6800m on S Face (middle of S Face in ice on same ridge)
  C4 at 7400m on SE Face (never occupied)
  High point at 7400m on SE Face.

  SE Face very easy: no problem climbing it (which reached at 7300m from S Face, which is very hard). S Face difficulty very step ice halfway up and above that rock - very steep 3000m. Fixed rope from below C1 to 7300m on entire SE Face; total 2800m fixed rope because very steep but snow stuck total. C4 site reached by several parties making route and placing loads 28th and on 30th Oct. Lopez and Sanchez went to C4 to sleep there and go for summit. Lopez only 10m below C4 when he fell. Planned to make biv or C5 at 8000m and summit 1st or 2nd Nov.

  Lopez and Dr were at 7400m when Lopez fell entire face (2400m) on 30 Oct 5:00 pm. Doctor went to search and then had to biv in dark and cold, returned to BC next day with badly frostbitten 9 fingers. Lopez body not found by all searchers. Sanchez to KTM by helicopter; if no infection may not lose parts of fingers. No other problems.

accidents:
  Lopez fell entire face (2400m), Sanchez went to search and bivouaced in dark & cold, returned to BC with badly frostbitten 9 fingers (if no infection may not lose parts of fingers), Lopez body not found; no other problems


expid: CHAM86302
peakid: CHAM
year: 1986
route1: W Ridge-SW Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Akio Shinya
sponsor: Japan College of Dairying Chamlang Climbing Expedition 1986
ascent1: 3rd
bcdate: 1986-09-22
smtdate: 1986-10-16
smttime: 1200
campsites: BC(22/09,4750m),C1(27/09,5600m),C2(02/10,6100m),C3(09/10,6600m),Smt(16/10)
accidents: Ongel and Dawa Sherpa slight frostbite; nothing else
agency: Jai Himal Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Hunku Khola
  C1 on moraine
  C2 on West Ridge
  C3 on West Ridge.

  All knife ridge from C1 to C3. Last part summit very dangerous W Face because very steep. Climbed couloir on face (were on couloir on W Face from C3 to summit). 4000m fixed rope from 5450m to C3 because beginners in Himalaya.

  28-9 Sept much snowfell so all waited in BC for 2 days.

  Shinya sure his expedition and Koreans reached highest summit.


expid: CHAM86301
peakid: CHAM
year: 1986
route1: S Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Woo Jong-Duk
sponsor: 1986 Korean Chamlang Expedition
ascent1: 2nd
bcdate: 1986-09-18
smtdate: 1986-10-10
accidents: None; avalanching broke tents but injuries
agency: Jai Himal Trekking
campsites:
  BC(18/09,4850m),ABC(5150m),C1(21/09,5510m),C2(23/09,5950m),C3(26/09,6430m),C4(05/10,6650m),Biv(09/10,6980m),Smt(10/10)

routememo:
  BC  at Hongu Khola 
  C1  at top of icefall
  C2  below South Ridge
  C3  slightly below South Ridge
  C4  on South Ridge
  Biv on South Ridge.

  29th Sept all members in BC because heavy snow avalanching. Difficult parts C2 to C3 ice and snow steep section needing 900m fixed rope rock 50m very steep (rock and snow mixed) and very difficult (found 10m of rope from 1962 Japanese expedition) section between C4 and biv where 6000m roped total between C4 and biv. All of mountain needed 2700m fixed rope. Korean's route joined Japanese 1962 route at Korean's C3: Japanese C3 was further down S Ridge.

  Have no doubt Japanese in 1962 reached same main summit as did this expedition.


expid: MAK286301
peakid: MAK2
year: 1986
route1: S Ridge
nation: Israel
leaders: Doron Erel
sponsor: Israel Makalu II
bcdate: 1986-09-14
smtdate: 1986-10-13
termdate: 1986-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to wind and fatigue
campsites: BC(14/09,5300m),C1(17/09,6000m),C2(21/09,6650m),C3(13/10,7400m),xxx(13/10,7400m)
accidents: Only slight frostbite
achievment: 1st Israeli expedition outside Israel
agency: Trekking & Expedition Services (TES)
routememo:
  BC at 5300m at glacier's junction near Messner's BC 
  C1 at 6000m at Chago Glacier's side
  C2 at 6650m at beginning of steep face leading to Col (Messner's C1)
  C3 at 7400m at Makalu La.

  Late Sept-early Oct tried to pitch C3 at 7000m but bad weather prevented this and finally put it at La. Waited too long to make C3 and therefore were unsuccessful. After 13th Oct too windy to go higher and by now 3 had slight frostbite. 26th Sept Erel tried to reach pass with Wanda Rutkiewicz but turned back at 7000m when snowstorm began. Lack of experience in Himalaya made slow progress in early days, then wind and being "pretty tired" finished effort.

  2 members left early because they decided they they had had enough.


expid: MAK286302
peakid: MAK2
year: 1986
route1: NW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Dong-Yeon
sponsor: 1986 Korean Kangchungtse Expedition
ascent1: 15th
bcdate: 1986-09-17
smtdate: 1986-10-09
campsites: BC(17/09,5100m),C1(20/09,5800m),C2(24/09,6200m),C3(05/10,7060m),Smt(09/10)
accidents: None
achievment: 1st Korean ascent
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 5100m at start of Chago Glacier 
  C1 east of point 6170m on snow plateau
  C2 at 6200m just below NW Ridge southeast of col 6550m
  C3 at 7060m on NE Ridge (S of "H" on Schneider map).

  1st summit bid by 2 members on 6th Oct, but strong wind and snowfall turned them back at 7200m. 9th Oct 2nd party successful. 

  Route was same as Japanese 1976 (making C3 found 1 and half down in snow Japanese rope). Difficult knife ridge mixed rock and ice/snow below C3. From C3 to top mixed rock and used many rock pitons; ice pitons also; total 1800m fixed rope mostly C2 and above (200m C1 to C2) because they chose steep route.


expid: KANG86301
peakid: KANG
year: 1986
route1: SW Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Joan Hugas Maurici
sponsor: Girona Himalaya 1986
ascent1: 20th
bcdate: 1986-09-15
smtdate: 1986-10-24
smttime: 1300
campsites: BC(15/09,5000m),C1(22/09,6100m),C2(25/09,6700m),C3(27/09,7200m),C4(16/10,7800m),Smt(24/10)
achievment: 1st Spanish ascent
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  Bad weather delayed expedition in reaching BC. C1-C3 established by 27 Sep; C4 established on 16 Oct after delayed by heavy snowfall. 

  1st summit did defeated at 8000m on 17th Oct by wind, big snowstorm and incipient frostbite to Estiu, who was with Permanye and Ang Rita. Had pitched C4, after heavy snowfall in late Sept. First two had gotten no higher than C3. 

  After further delays due to snowfall and high winds, 2nd summit bid made on 24 Oct. Final summit push found C2 and C3 destroyed by snowfall at C2 and avalanche from Yalung Kang. 3 men to C4 23rd Oct: Hugas, Permanye and Ang Rita. On 24th Hugas turned back at 8400m because very cold [while other two to the top at 1 pm].

  Total 1200m fixed rope. Most difficult section below C1, where fixed rope 400-500m.

accidents:
  Sherpa Lhakpa Nuru disappeared on approach march below BC (don't know where he went and whether he is alive)


expid: NEPA86301
peakid: NEPA
year: 1986
route1: S Ridge from W
nation: France
leaders: Dominique Hembise
sponsor: Joint Nepal-French Kirat Chuli Expedition
bcdate: 1986-09-28
smtdate: 1986-10-16
termdate: 1986-10-25
termnote: Abandoned at 6650m due to snow, wind and Hembise's frostbite
othersmts: Permit for Kirat Chuli (KIRA-863-01)
campsites: BC(28/09,5000m),ABC(03/10,5200m),C1(05/10,5700m),C2(13/10,6150m),xxx(16/10,6650m)
agency: Trekking & Expedition Services (TES)
routememo:
  BC at base of Cock's Comb, west of Nepal Camp
  C1 in cwm half way between Cross Peak & Nepal Peak
  C2 on South Ridge of Nepal Peak (a little on Sikkimese side)
  High point at South Ridge of Nepal Peak.

  C1 in Cwm which was dangerously threatened by snow avalanches: small avalanches came near C1 in center of Cwm. On 16th Oct turned down because rotten snow on ridge but did not have enough fixed rope at the time. 

  Now Dominique Hembise had frostbitten fingers and toes and stopped climbing. Others could not carry on because frequent new snowfall and strong wind on ridge: great turbulance of wind from Nepal and Sikkim. Gave up climb because members discouraged by bad weather conditions. All left mountain 19-25 Oct.

  Lazizi used oxygen at BC in beginning when he did not acclimatize well.

accidents:
  Hembise frostbitten fingers and toes but they will heal; no other problems (except mild altitude sickness in start of expedition)


expid: CHOY86302
peakid: CHOY
year: 1986
route1: E Ridge from Ngojumba Kang (to 7500m)
route2: W Ridge-W Face (Tichy)
nation: Japan
leaders: Nobuo Shiraishi
sponsor: Kitakyusu Cho Oyu Expedition 1986
ascent2: 27th
bcdate: 1986-10-09
smtdate: 1986-10-16
smttime: 1420
termdate: 1986-10-21
othersmts: Attempted Ngojumba Kang (NGOJ-863-01)
campsites: BC(09/10,5300m),Biv1(10/10,5700m),Biv2(11/10,6300m),Biv3(12/10,6750m),Biv4(13/10,7200m),Smt(16/10)
accidents: Shiraishi frostbitten fingers but will not lose tips; no other problems
agency: Above the Clouds
routememo:
  BC   at 5300m at site of Swiss BC this season
  Biv1 at Nangpa La.

  Attempted E Ridge from Ngojumba Kang in September. Transferred to NW Ridge (normal route) in October.

  After it became clear team could not succeed via E Ridge, liaison officer left BC 2 Oct to request permit for NW side (went to Namche to send radio request). No permit granted but Shiraishi and Hino left BC 5th Oct to make 2-man alpine-style climb from west. Moved up to 7200m in 4 days then stopped by bad weather for 2 days before going to summit. Found climb for most of route not technically difficult but were hampered by snow above ankles. Shiraishi gave up the attempt, but Hino reached top at 14:20 hrs, returned to 7200m at 17:55 hrs. 17th Oct bivouacked at 6750m, 18th at 5800m near Nangpa La, 19th at 5600m and 20th arrived at BC.

  Expedition ask that ascent not be revealed in KTM, but are happy to have it reported in Iwa-to-Yuki.

  Much heavy snowfall and distances between camps very long, so climbers tired. Put in total 1200m fixed rope from 5500m to about 6000m, 6100m to 6500m and 7200m to 7500m [on E Ridge route]. Asked for permit to change route to northwest side but not granted. 2 Oct liaison officer went to Namche Bazar to request change of route. Shiraishi and Hino went to northwest side, met Swiss at BC and made alpine-style ascent (no fixed camps). Left BC 5 Oct, arriveed Swiss BC 9 Oct, started ascent 10th Oct.

  Shiraishi frostbitten fingers from climb via southwest, but will not lose any tips; no other problems.


expid: CHOY86301
peakid: CHOY
year: 1986
route1: W Ridge from S
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Erhard Loretan
sponsor: Cho Oyu Himalayan Expedition
bcdate: 1986-10-08
smtdate: 1986-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to fatal accident of Steiner
othersmts: Pt 6269m near BC
campsites: BC(08/10,5300m),Biv(19/10,6000m),C1(20/10,7200m),xxx(20/10,7200m)
accidents: Steiner fatal accident
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC   between Dzsampa and Karyolung
  Biv1 1 hour before Polish 1986 spring ABC
  Biv2 at NW Ridge
  High point at NW Ridge.

  Before 19th Oct did acclimatization climb of point 6296m. Started up from BC at midnight 19/18 Oct and arrived at biv site of 6000m at 8:00 am (as on Everest Aug 1986, rested in day time when warmer and climbed during cold). At 4:00 pm 19th started up again and made new route on face WNW of summit. Not difficult snow face (last part a little rock). Climbed till 1:00 am on 20th Oct to 7200m. Very strong wind and had to stop. 7:00 am 20th also very strong wind so decided to descend to 1st biv site. 9:00 am Steiner fell to his death.

  Steiner fell (was behind Loretan). Probably strong wind pushed him off. Was at 6900m and fell to 6300m but still alive. Loretan put him in sleeping bag, went to Dupre who went up with warm clothes, food, cooker, while Loretan to BC and sent sirdar to Namche for helicopter. No helicopter in 2 days so Loretan up with more food and few hours after arrival Steiner died 23 Oct evening many serious injuries.


expid: DORJ86301
peakid: DORJ
year: 1986
route1: W Ridge
nation: W Germany
leaders: Klaus Stark
sponsor: Bavarian Dorje Lhakpa Expedition
ascent1: 6th
approach: From S via Balephi Khola
bcdate: 1986-10-24
smtdate: 1986-11-07
smttime: 1430
campsites: BC(24/10,4500m),C1(26/10,5500m),C2(31/10,6100m),Smt(07/11),Biv(07/11,6700m)
accidents: None
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC just east of south end of ridge running south from point 14,180 ft
  C1 below West Ridge
  C2 on West Ridge.

  1st summit bid on 6th Nov from C2 failed because started late (at 8:00 am) and turned back at 6660m to C2. Next day Mayer started up at 6:30 am and Mueller at 7:00 am (Mueller tried from 6th Nov attempt and not sure whether he would go up again). Mayer on top at 2:30 pm and returned to C2 at 8:00 pm while Mueller moving very slowly got to top in 12 hrs (on top at 7:00 pm) and biv at 6660m with biv gear 8:30 pm. 8th Nov to C2 at 10:00 am and slept there while Mayer to BC same day. 

  Ridge safe and easy ice climbing in good ice conditions. Used no fixed rope (found many fixed ropes from Japanese) except on one steep section below C2 at Sherpas request.

  Actual approach via Chautara, Tempathang and Balephi Khola to Panch Pokhari. South Ridge and South Face are possible route, but face had many icefalls and dangerous seracs.


expid: GAUR86301
peakid: GAUR
year: 1986
route1: SW Face (left of USA 1979 rte)
nation: Spain
leaders: Jose Maria Camara Torre
sponsor: Spanish Gaurishanker Expedition
bcdate: 1986-09-16
smtdate: 1986-09-22
termdate: 1986-10-03
termnote: Abandoned at 5700m due to snow conditions
campsites: BC(16/09,4700m),C1(19/09,4900m),C2(22/09,5200m),Biv(23/09,5700m),xxx(23/09,5700m)
accidents: None
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  BC  same as Korean winter 1985 (west of South Ridge btw A & L of Rolwaling on map)
  C2  on SW Face
  Biv on SW Face
  High point on SW Face.

  Wanted alpine-style above C2 and made one biv. Then had bad night from snowfall so 24th back to C1. More bad weather. Went up again only to retrive C2 equipment. Snow up to waist height. Must return to jobs at home on 13th Oct.

  Wanted to finish climb of autumn 1981 Spanish team via same route.

  Had many problems with police in restricted area; Gaurishankar really closed to foreigners.


expid: GYAC86301
peakid: GYAC
year: 1986
route1: S Face-SW Pillar
nation: Spain
leaders: Jose Luis Zuloaga
sponsor: Basque Gyachung Kang Expedition
countries: USA
bcdate: 1986-09-26
smtdate: 1986-10-27
termdate: 1986-11-01
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to wind
accidents: None
achievment: 1st US & Spanish attempts
agency: Kunga
campsites:
  BC(26/09,5100m),C1(01/10,5700m),C2(19/10,6200m),Biv1(26/10,6800m),Biv2(27/10,7100m),xxx(27/10,7100m)

routememo:
  BC  on west side of Lungsampa on Ngojumba Glaciers junction southeast of Dyazumpa
  Biv on South Face
  Biv on South Face
  High point at 2nd bivouac.

  Really 3 people climbing from beginning through out climb with some arriving at BC two weeks later than others. Problem of climb was the glacier and finding route across it through lot of snow and above it which of 2 icefalls could be surmounted (tried first western icefall, then climbed eastern one). Hence 18 days to make C2 after C1. From C2 26th Oct 5 members started up in alpine-style, but same day 2 members [Zabelata and Matous] retreated [from 6700m] while other three bivouacked at 6800m. Next day to 7100m and that night very strong winds (were hanging from ropes) so down. 27th 3 members to 6800m and 28th down. All in BC 29th and left BC 1st Nov. On face snow was in very good condition.

  Planned to make a third bivouac at about 7300m atop difficult chimney on SW Pillar and go to summit from there.


expid: LANG86301
peakid: LANG
year: 1986
route1: SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Yoon Keon-Jung
sponsor: 1986 Korean Langtang Lirung Expedition
ascent1: 7th
bcdate: 1986-09-18
smtdate: 1986-10-10
smttime: 1000
achievment: New route by 1st Korean attempt
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(18/09,4280m),ABC(20/09,4850m),C1(27/09,5450m),C2(27/09,5450m),C3(01/10,6200m),Biv(08/10,6800m),C4(09/10,7100m),Smt(10/10)

routememo:
  BC  southwest of Langtang, west of point 17,456
  ABC below of ridge on SW Ridge
  C1  on SW Ridge
  C2  on SW Ridge
  C3  on SW Ridge
  Biv on SW Ridge
  C4  on SW Ridge.

  Ridge very steep rock much snow some ice, very long; 50 rock pitons used; 3 km rope fixed and that not enough; fixed rope from C1 upwards. Easy from C4 to top but very steep above C3 and biv needed ("bivouac site eagle's house").

  Sherpa fell, not hurt but left expedition; sirdar also had fall; during descent from summit Shin, Song and Yoon fell 100m, but not injured.

  Found Canada fixed rope at 5500m.

accidents:
  Sherpa fell, not hurt but left expedition; sirdar also had fall; during descent from summit, 3 members fell 100m but not injured


expid: LANG86302
peakid: LANG
year: 1986
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Miguel Angel Puertas
sponsor: Madrid Langtang Lirung Expedition 1986
bcdate: 1986-09-21
smtdate: 1986-10-13
termdate: 1986-10-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to continuous strong winds
campsites: BC(21/09,4100m),C1(24/09,4800m),C2(01/10,5600m),C3A(12/10,6000m),C3B(13/10,6100m),xxx(13/10,6300m)
accidents: None
achievment: 1st Spanish attempt
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  BC at bottom of SE Ridge
  C1 at bottom of couloir 
  C2 at beginning of very sharp ridge
  C3 at beginning of steep wall.

  Route was as same as Japanese 1986 Spring on knife ridge. Had 2 C3s: 6000m on 12 Oct but moved it up to beginning of difficult ice wall. Planned alpine-style ascent from C3. Climbed the wall on 13th, then moved C3 up 100m. Then bad weather with much soft new snow followed on 17th by strong wind which lifted tent at C3; had to descend to BC. From 6400m ridge would have been easy, but wind did not drop. Left BC 19 Oct.


expid: AMAD86301
peakid: AMAD
year: 1986
route1: W Face up; SW Ridge-S Face down
nation: Czechoslovakia
leaders: Miroslav Smid
sponsor: ADR Rocks Expedition Ama Dablam
ascent1: 47th,49th
countries: Switzerland, W Germany
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1986-09-22
smtdate: 1986-10-11
smttime: 1130
accidents: Koch twisted ankle bouldering at BC (returned home)
achievment: 1st Czechoslovakian ascent
agency: Mountain Travel
campsites:
  BC(22/09,4600m),Biv1(09/10,5250m),Biv2(10/10,6450m),Biv3(11/10,6812m),Biv4(12/10,6150m),Smt(11,18/10)

routememo:
  BC  at 4600m normal South Ridge BC site at Mingbo
  Biv 1 at 5250m 
  Biv 2 at 6450m
  Biv 3 at 6812m at summit
  Biv 4 at 6150m on South Face.

  No fixed camps above BC: alpine-style climb. After 22nd went to see best line on face and how to approach face; found Peter Hillary had best way and from his ABC [used] a little of his fixed rope. 2:00 am 10th Oct Smid started climb alone at 5250m and biv at 6450m at 4:00 pm. 11th in 3 hrs climb reached top 11:30 am in snowstorm (could see nothing) and spent night there for photos early next morning. 12th descended to S Ridge with only short rope and 2 pitons and no one else on ridge in "terrible" descent and biv at 6150m on S Face (70m below ridge on face). 13th snow and rock face to snow slopes of face to bottom of face where at 10:00 am reached Yugoslavian BC and to own BC same day.

  Only Koch twisted ankle bouldering at BC and went home. 

  2 Swiss summiters together did slightly different climb: broken red line up and down to join Yugoslav S Face route (down Yugoslav fixed rope). Bivouacked at Smid's 1st Biv and then had their own 2nd biv at 6300m.


expid: KTEG86301
peakid: KTEG
year: 1986
route1: NE Buttress up; SE Face down
nation: USA
leaders: Jay Smith
sponsor: American Kangtega Expedition
ascent1: 6th
countries: Canada
bcdate: 1986-10-12
smtdate: 1986-10-29
smttime: 1130
accidents: None
achievment: 1st traverse & new ascent route
agency: Himalayan Journeys
campsites:
  BC(12/10,5000m),ABC(21/10,5730m),Biv1(22/10,5900m),Biv2(23/10,6100m),Biv3(24/10,6200m),Biv4(25/10,6300m),Biv5(26/10,6500m),Biv6(27/10,6600m),Biv7(28/10,6700m),Smt(29/10)

routememo:
  BC  at 5000m at base of SE glacier 
  ABC at 5730m
  Biv at 5900m below 1st rock band
  Biv at 6100m top 2nd band
  Biv at 6300m base 4th band
  Biv at 6500m at top of snow mushrooms
  Biv at 6600m half way up long gully to summit plateau
  Biv at 6700m at on plateau to south of summit.

  Just above Hinku Nuptse Glacier was 100m wall where fixed one rope for descent. Total 4 rock bands of 2 pitches each most difficult section was final snow mushrooms. 4 men started up on 22 Oct from ABC and reached summit in 7-1/2 days. One got tired and didn't get all the way to top. Waited while other three did and then all 4 descended to BC same day. On top at 11:30 am and back in BC 6:00 pm having skirted icefall at eastern end of Kangtaiga Glacier.

  Had permit for Kusum Kangru but E Face not attractive and were tired after Kangtega so made no attempt to climb it.


expid: PUMO86303
peakid: PUMO
year: 1986
route1: S Face up; SW Ridge-S Ridge down
nation: UK
leaders: Sandy Allan
sponsor: American-British Pumori S Ridge Expedition 1986
ascent1: 25th
countries: USA
bcdate: 1986-10-09
smtdate: 1986-10-19
smttime: 1000
accidents: None at all up to Oct 22; none later
achievment: Probably new routes up and down
agency: Kunga
campsites:
  BC(09/10,5100m),Biv1(14/10,5600m),Biv2(15/10,5850m),Biv3(16/10,6100m),Biv4(17/10,6600m),Biv5(18/10,7000m),Smt(19/10)

routememo:
  BC   at 5100m on east side of Kalapattar
  Biv5 at 7000m right below summit on cornice.

  1st to 3rd biv sites Scottish grade 5 steep ice. Spindrift avalanches all the time in this section funnelled down couloir and were very dangerous. Did climb true alpine-style except for 100m of 8m rope. Started off with bivy tent but it fell off after 1st biv so used snow caves or just platforms. Very pleased with climbing this difficult route both up and down and think it must be new ascent and descent routes (confusion about who has been exactly where on past expeditions).

  Allan and Allen left BC 22 Oct. Other 2 members to make their own bid but not likely to repeat same route [retreated from 6000m due to high winds].


expid: THAM86301
peakid: THAM
year: 1986
route1: W Face (middle)
nation: Spain
leaders: Jose Luis Fernandez
sponsor: Thamserku Hortaleza al Himalaya 1986
bcdate: 1986-10-09
smtdate: 1986-10-27
termdate: 1986-10-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to lack of fuel stove and need to return to Spain
accidents: 3 members frostbite and leader's altitude sickness
agency: Kunga
campsites:
  BC(09/10,4300m),Dep(18/10,5200m),Biv1(25/10,5700m),Biv2(26/10,5950m),Biv3(27/10,6300m),xxx(27/10,6300m)

routememo:
  BC at 4300m at west side of mountain near yak house 1 hour below
  Deposit at 5200m at bottom of West Face
  Biv 1 at 5700m on West Face (middle of face)
  Biv 2 at 5950m on West Face (middle of face)
  Biv 3 at 6300m on West Face at bottom of couloir.

  11 days stayed in BC because bad weather. Went up to make deposit: started up 18th Oct and in 4 days made +4 carries to deposit while sleeping each night in BC. 24th Oct summit push began by all 4 members and 3 slept at deposit while leader returned to BC with altitude sickness. 25th 3 started for summit and reached 5700m and next day up again. 28th gas finished, impossible to melt snow and cook food (had been drinking only one litre/day) so despite all difficult climbing finished and only easy couloir to scale to summit, turned down because too dangerous to climb without liquids. Also were tired.

  From 5700m were 500m very steep ice above 1st biv. Entire face is steep: could only sit in bivouac because no space to lie down although above biv 3 appeared less steep. Descended same route in 25 hours continous descent to BC.


expid: AMAD86303
peakid: AMAD
year: 1986
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Pierre-Antoine Hiroz
sponsor: Swiss Expedition to Ama Dablam
ascent1: 52nd,53rd
countries: France
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1986-10-07
smtdate: 1986-10-22
smttime: 0900
campsites: BC(07/10,4600m),C1(09/10,5300m),C2(14/10,5800m),Smt(22,26/10)
accidents: No problems as of Oct 24, when Dutrievoz left BC; no problems later
agency: Lama
routememo:
  BC at Mingbo
  C1 at very bottom of ridge
  C2 on first shoulder of South Ridge.

  Made no C3 because too heavy to carry up tent, etc. and better to go very light and faster; before summit push spent few days at BC resting and eating. 21 Oct from BC to C2 directly (was 3 summiters of 22 Oct). 22 Oct at 1:00 am began climb to summit in early of full moonlight so as to return to C2 before dark; were on top at 9:00 am in good weather although very cold and windy and back in C2 at 4:00 pm; technically very difficult with much snow on mountain like sugar (not powder) and very steep rock steps. Were in BC 23rd night and Dutrievoz left BC 24 Oct to Lukla.


expid: PUMO86301
peakid: PUMO
year: 1986
route1: SW Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: John Roberts
sponsor: New Zealand Pumori Expedition
countries: Australia, USA
bcdate: 1986-09-16
smtdate: 1986-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6550m due to exhaustion
campsites: BC(16/09,5300m),C1(29/09,5950m),C2(14/10,6250m),xxx(24-26/10,6550m)
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC at 5300m on west side of SW ridge
     (west of point 5545 on east side of Changri Shar Glacier)
  C1 at 5950m at snow shelf
  C2 at 6250m on top of snow shelf
  High point at 6550m at SW Ridge.

  Route went under glacier shelf on west side of SW Ridge to a west spur of SW Ridge. After established BC "crowded around acclimatizing." After made C1, ferried loads to stock it and put fixed line to snow rib at 20,000 ft. 15th-16th route made across SW Ridge. Next week put in more fixed line above C2 and spent next 9 days fixing rope on difficult rock and ice. By then too exhausted to continue on up to upper snow fields above snow ramp. Should have changed style of climb to fast alpine-style ascent instead of fixing rope up. 3000 feet total - had done all difficult rock climbing.

  Brailsford never reached BC because of severe high alitude sickness. MacDonald got absessed tooth and was out of action for 2 weeks (had tooth pulled at Pheriche).


  Swenson - 4 Nov 

  Roberts "flipped out" on the climb. Hadn't realized how big the Himalaya are: froze on them and had to be helped down the ropes on 26 and 27 Oct. This used up other members remaining strength.

accidents:
  Brailsford never reached BC because of severe high altitude sickness; MacDonald absessed tooth and was out of action for 2 weeks


expid: PUMO86302
peakid: PUMO
year: 1986
route1: E Ridge (or NE Ridge)
nation: Japan
leaders: Mikio Mitsuhata
sponsor: Ryoho Climbing Club Himalayan Exped to E Ridge-Pumori 1986
bcdate: 1986-09-30
smtdate: 1986-10-06
termdate: 1986-10-12
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to Mitsuhata's accident
campsites: BC(30/09,5250m),C1(01/10,5700m),xxx(06/10,6000m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at 5250m above Gorak Shep, where planned to put it
  C1 at 5700m at bottom of East Ridge
  High point on East Ridge.
   
  C1 to C2 broken snow, and same rock. Fixed 50 pitches rope from C1 towards C2, which planned to put at 6200m, but avalanche hit Mitsuhata at 2:00 pm on 6th Oct and climb over. He had been searching for site for C2. Other members went up again later but only to bring down gear and would leave BC 11 or 12 Oct. Mitsuhata left 10 Oct by helicopter.

  Mitsuhata broke left leg when snow avalanche hit him 6 Oct and he fell 40m (a full pitch) till stopped by rope and other member helped him to BC, which he reached 7 Oct. Also had trouble breathing and used oxygen during descent to C1.

accidents:
  Mitsuhata broke left leg when snow avalanche hit him Oct 6 (he fell 40m until stopped by rope, also had trouble breathing and used oxygen during descent to C1)


expid: AMAD86302
peakid: AMAD
year: 1986
route1: S Face-SW Ridge
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Darko Berljak
sponsor: Zagreb Mountaineering Expedition Ama Dablam 1986
ascent1: 48th,50th,51st
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1986-10-01
smtdate: 1986-10-16
smttime: 1130
termdate: 1986-10-20
campsites: BC(01/10,4600m),ABC(09/10,5250m),C1(14/10,6100m),Smt(16,18-19/10)
achievment: 1st Yugoslav ascent; new route
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  1st BC at 4600m at bottom of West Face (usual site)
  2nd BC at 5250m near lake at bottom of South Face (between the 2 South Ridges)
  C1 at 6100m at snowhole 150m below shoulder of eastern South Ridge between seracs.

  Each summiter climbed alone from shoulder snowhole since route on S Face fixed all the way to this shoulder with 860m rope. Face mostly snow and ice but rock also. Steepest was 65 degrees, average 55 degrees - UIAA 4+ to 5-. Difficulty on only 20m of rock, estimate of rock 3-4 UIAA. 250m total rock climbing on face, 250m ice climbing in upper part (into serac). Route on face led up a small ridge on left side of face (left of Jeff Lowe's route). Technically not so difficult and really didn't need fixed ropes, but Kovic and Benkovic felt.

  Butkovic got pneumonia; Bago got frostbite and also bad digestive illness. Butkovic left BC 16 Oct with Berljaks. Berkovic left BC 19th. Other 4 left 20 Oct.


  Berkovic - 24 Oct 86

  1st BC at same site as Czechs for West Face (4400-4500m on South Face), so made a 2nd BC near lake just under South Face at about 5200m on 10 or 11 Oct.

  Next day Bago and he fixed 450-500m rope; Alikalfic and Puzak fized 400m more to slope from ridge.

  15 Oct midnight Puzak, Bago and Butkovic and he started from BC and 5 am Puzak, Bago and Butkovic went back down, but he kept on up with tent food stove 2 gas. He went up to end of fixed ropes, took last one because 80m steep section above, using rucksack as belay; did this twice; placed tent under seracs at ice hole 100m below shoulder at about 6100-6200m.

  15th Alikalfic brought more rope to him and descended Berkovic he put in more fixed rope.

  16th he started up 6:45 am and route now normal route to top. Arrived at top without any fixed rope at 11:30 am and returned to BC (2-1/2 hours from top to tent), arrived tent 3:00 pm. Left tent to moraine 1 hour only, down fixed ropes and arrive BC 6:30 pm 16th.

  Leader and wife stayed at lower (1st) BC.

accidents:
  Butkovic got pneumonia; Bago got frostbite & bad digestive illness; Butkovic left BC Oct 16 with Berljaks; Berkovic left BC Oct 19; other 4 left Oct 20


expid: HIMN86301
peakid: HIMN
year: 1986
route1: SW Ridge
nation: W Germany
leaders: Wolfgang Weinzierl
sponsor: Bavarian Himalchuli N Expedition 1986
countries: Italy
bcdate: 1986-09-26
smtdate: 1986-10-15
termdate: 1986-10-25
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to disappearance of 3 members
campsites: BC(26/09,4200m),ABC(29/09,4600m),C1(04/10,5800m),C2(15/10,6500m),xxx(16/10,6500m)
achievment: 1st German attempt; 1st deaths
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC  at Mani Pokhari
  ABC at moraine near small lake
  C1  on SW Ridge
  C2  above ice barrier
  High point at C2?

  15th Oct 3 started up after period of bad weather (daily snowfall) to C2 which they planned to put at 6500m (Reiter in C1 could not see them). 15th evening very stormy and snow falling and on 17th Reiter down to ABC and BC. 24th Oct Reiter and Dorje to C1 and on 25th down with 2 tents. Vertical ice barriers above C1 fixed with rope.

  Eisendle was supposed to trek to BC only.

accidents:
  Probably fatal avalanche (fate of missing men and even how high they actually climbed are unknown since they had no walkie talkie); Reiter ill and therefore did not go up on 15th


expid: MANA86301
peakid: MANA
year: 1986
route1: NE Face-E Ridge up; NE Face down
nation: Poland
leaders: Jerzy Kukuczka
sponsor: Polish Manaslu and Annapurna Expedition
ascent1: 27th
countries: Mexico
bcdate: 1986-09-08
smtdate: 1986-11-10
termdate: 1986-11-13
othersmts: Summited Manaslu East Smt (7992m)
achievment: 1st ascent of E Summit by Carsolio, Hajzer and Kukuczka
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(08/09,4400m),C1(19/09,5600m),C2(20/09/10,6400m),C3(24/10,7300m);Biv1(05/11,5500m),Biv2(06/11,6300m),Biv3(07/11,7300m),Biv4(08/11,7700m),E.Smt(09/11,7992m),Biv5(09/11,8000m),Smt(10/11)

routememo:
  BC at bottom of NE Face, north of East Ridge
  C1 at east end of East Ridge from north side
  C2 on East Ridge
  C3 on East Ridge
  Biv very near old C3.

  After BC established, every day rain so waited till 19th Sept for better weather. 20th Sept bived at 6400m and 21st made camp there but 22 Sept down for food. Then snowfall. Again up 27th but 28th down because snowing again. 2 times more tried this route (2nd and 7th Oct) but heavy snowfall and many avalanches. 20th Oct 3 climbers up same route with heavy deep snow but good weather, reached C2 21st. Oct 22nd to 7000m and deposit supplies, then down in cold winds. 23rd waited in C2 and a member cold to BC. 24th 2 members up to C3. 25th up very difficult rock (100m up only and back to C3). 26th little more up and 29th up in summit bid by 2 members but reached 7600m when turned back in wind and snow. Ascent too slow so down to C2 on 29th to traverse to normal route like Austrians. 30th on NE Face 7300m not possible to pitch tent so stayed night without tent and 31st to BC via ridge clearing all camps as they went. 

  5th Nov final summit bid 3 members [Kukuczka, Hajzer and Carsolio] from BC and biv 5500m. 6th Nov 40m very hard climb on ice. 9th Nov arrived plateau with wind cloud at 8000m. 10th Nov very cold and Carlo's fingers and toes very cold, stays at biv while 2 members went quickly to top and returned by normal route to BC where arrived 12 Nov.

  Many avalanches, but no one hurt by them. Climbers started avalanches from C3 to 7600m very difficult and from 7600m 100m very difficult place rock with sugar snow.

accidents:
  Carlos bad frostbite in toes and fingers; will lose parts of fingers; Warecki got pneumonia and was evacuated from BC on 18 Sept


expid: HIME86301
peakid: HIME
year: 1986
route1: S Ridge-SW Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Sadao Okada
sponsor: Nihon University Himalchuli Expedition 1986
ascent1: 7th
bcdate: 1986-09-07
smtdate: 1986-10-26
smttime: 1300
agency: Trans Himalayan Trekking (THT)
campsites:
  BC(07/09,5200m),C1(15/09,5600m),C2(20/09,5970m),C3(25/09,6500m),C4(07/10,6900m),C5(13/10,7200m),Smt(26/10)

routememo:
  BC at Dodi Khola southwest of mountain.

  More bad weather after 13th Oct. All route difficult: fixed 7000m total rope - mostly rock and snow. 1st summit attack on 26th Oct and Furno and Nima made route to top starting from C5 at 4:00 am while 2nd group left C5 6:00 am (2 started ahead of other 2 because too cold for 2nd pair to wait while first pair put in route up difficult rock face). Second pair even so went up more slowly because very tired. 1st pair returned to C4 at 3:30 pm while Imoto at 9:50 pm to C5. 25th Oct 6 members slept in C5 (Okada at BC) but on 26th only 3 were well enough to go up while other 3 descended to C3.

accidents:
  Nakamura fell from about 7500m while descending from summit (fell about 2000m), body not found (many crevasses); no other problems


expid: MANA86303
peakid: MANA
year: 1986
route1: NE Face
nation: Colombia
leaders: Carlos Eduardo Gomez
sponsor: Colombia Himalaya 1986
bcdate: 1986-09-19
smtdate: 1986-10-31
termdate: 1986-11-02
termnote: Abandoned at 7250m due to wind, cold and fear of serious frostbite
agency: Trekking & Expedition Services (TES)
campsites:
  BC(19/09,3850m),Dep(22/09,4900m),C1(05/10,5340m),C2(11/10,5930m),C3(23/10,6610m),C4(31/10,7250m),xxx(31/10,7250m)

routememo:
  BC at usual site above Samagaon
  C2 above Naike Col and above big icefall
  C3 on NE Face
  C4 on NE Face
  High point at C4.

  C1 lost in bad snowfall which collapsed tent, so made new one at 5400m after many day's snow. Fixed rope in icefall. Lost C4 in slab avalanche which destroyed tent and gave slight frostbite. No real technical problems and put only 400m fixed rope (but that all rope they brought).

accidents:
  Arbelaez fell in crevasse but rescued unharmed; 2 members slight frostbite; Sherpa cook got sick (ulcers?) and left expedition


expid: MANA86302
peakid: MANA
year: 1986
route1: SE Face (Polish 1984 rte)
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Jovan Poposki
sponsor: Macedonian SE Face Expedition 1986 Manaslu
bcdate: 1986-09-11
smtdate: 1986-10-29
termdate: 1986-11-02
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to strong winds, heavy clouds and fog
campsites: BC(11/09,4250m),ABC(18/09,4900m),C2(20/09,5700m),C3(09/10,6550m),C4(27/10,7200m),xxx(29/10,7400m)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Sherpa Trekking Service (STS)
routememo:
  BC at 4250m at Pungyen Glacier's moraine, southeast of mountain
  ABC/C1 at 4900m at upper part of Pungyen Glacier at bottom of SE Face
  C2 at 5700m on SE Face
  C3 at 6550m on SE Face
  C4 at 7200m above Col between Peak 29 and Manaslu
  High point at 7400m SE Face.

  Avalanches falling stones early proved new route planned too dangerous and went to Polish route. 25th Sept reached 6100m and 6200m daily and then very bad weather with 50cm to 1m snow late Sept and early mid-Oct frequently. 4th and 7th Oct reached same altitudes and C2 twice completely destroyed (no one hurt because C2 unoccupied). 8th Oct reached C3 site. Reached col between Peak 29 and Manaslu on 25th Oct after waiting for heavy snowfall 12-16 Oct to stop. Started up again 18th Oct in fine weather; biv at col 25th Oct and 27th Oct reached C4 site, waited 5 days here but winds so strong could reach only 200m more; down to C3 for rest up to col only on 1 Nov. 

  Most difficult part was below col and above C3. Had fixed rope from 6200m to col entire section plus more in places below 6200m (how many meters total don't know because avalanches destroyed ropes; used up all 5000m of rope, perhaps total 2500m of route were fixed).


expid: ANN386302
peakid: ANN3
year: 1986
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Maurizio Maggi
sponsor: Delle Torre Annapurna III Expedition
bcdate: 1986-09-17
smtdate: 1986-09-25
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to death of a member
campsites: BC(17/09,4100m),C1(21/09,5150m),C2(24/09,5800m),xxx(25/09,6500m)
achievment: New route attempted
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC at moraine at start of Madi Khola
  C2 on Southwest Ridge
  High point at site for C3.

  Just above C1 was difficult rock. Small wall and seracs between C2 and C3 also presented some difficulties. Above C2 mostly ice except snow on less steep section. By fixing one or two ropes just above C3 site would have surmounted climbing problems.

  Had 7 days rain on route to BC and during approach 1 Sherpa injured leg.

  Were attempting new route, not same as 1977 Italian expedition. C3 would have been last camp.

  Caslini hit by falling serac which caused him to fall 350m; was crossing couloir to descend to BC for rest. 2 others were climbing up at same time on same wall but were to right of where serac fell. Found body on 27th and buried it in glacier. No other serious problems.

accidents:
  Caslino hit by falling serac which caused him to fall 350m; found body on 27th and buried it in glacier; no other serious problems


expid: ANN186302
peakid: ANN1
year: 1986
route1: NW Ridge-NW Buttress
nation: France
leaders: Jerome Greggory
sponsor: Annapurna NW Ridge Autumn 1986
bcdate: 1986-09-13
smtdate: 1986-09-23
termdate: 1986-09-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to loss of friend and danger
othersmts: Had permit for Tilicho (TILI-863-01)
campsites: BC(13/09,4200m),C1(16/09,5000m),C2(18/09,5800m),xxx(23/09,6000m)
accidents: Grison fatal fall; no other accidents, etc.
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  BC at usual site for N Face (same as Italians)
  C1 at normal route's C1 site
  C2 at bottom of a 500m couloir just above Herzog's "cauliflower ridge"
  High point at 6000m top of couloir.

  Wanted to do entire NW Ridge from bottom of it but too long, so took same route, using N Face route, to start of same ridge on route used by Vion's '81 French expedition. Grison climbed couloir to 6000m (top of couloir) and beginning of NW Ridge proper. 

  News [of Grison's death] reached BC next morning and team immediately decided to call off climb because of great danger from serac between BC and bottom of couloir and loss of motivation following death of Grison.

  Grison fell 200m from 6000m while starting return to C2 probably when fixed rope came away on 23rd; buried in crevasse.


expid: FANG86301
peakid: FANG
year: 1986
route1: E Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Jong-Duk
sponsor: 1986 Fang Expedition Team of Khic Alpine Club of Korea
bcdate: 1986-09-03
smtdate: 1986-09-15
termdate: 1986-09-21
termnote: Abandoned at 5450m due to loss of equipment in avalanching
othersmts: Singu Chuli (Fluted Peak)
campsites: BC(03/09,4130m),ABC(10/09,4600m),C1(12/09,5010m),C2(15/09,5450m),xxx(15/09,5450m)
accidents: Yoon Dae-Woon fell 6m into crevasse but not hurt
achievment: 1st Korean attempt and 1st East Face attempt
agency: Trans Himalayan Trekking (THT)
routememo:
  BC  at Annapurna Sanctuary southeast of Fang
  ABC at hillside before East Face
  C1  on icefall on East Face
  C2  in new icefall area
  High point at C2.

  16-18th Sept much snowfall and many snow avalanches and icefall around C2 "broken" (members in ABC and C1 these 3 days). Fixed rope and equipment between C1 and C2 buried by snow and could not be found. Think avalanche at night carried away C2. 20th Sept 2 members tried to return to C2 but big new crevasse opened on the way and could not reach site. Had fixed 2600m rope and 1000m of this now gone; ice screws and carabiners lost. E Face difficult steep rock. Could have climbed it with more fixed rope.


expid: GANG86301
peakid: GANG
year: 1986
route1: NW Ridge-NE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Jung
sponsor: Korea Seoul Alpine Assoc Exp to Gangapurna & Annapurna III
approach: Pokhara->Annapurna Sanctuary
bcdate: 1986-08-30
smtdate: 1986-09-27
termdate: 1986-10-03
termnote: Abandoned at 7150m due to heavy snow and member's fatigue
othersmts: Attempted Annapurna III (ANN3-863-01)
campsites: BC(30/08,4800m),C1(05/09,5150m),C2(08/09,5480m),C3(25/09,6150m),C4(27/09,7050m),xxx(27/09,7150m)
accidents: None
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Team attempted to ascend Gangapurna N Face, traverse Annapurna III NE Ridge and descend Annapurna III N Ridge. Neither summit reached and no traverse made. Expedition split into two teams and attacked both peaks simultaneously. Later abandoned Annapurna III attempt and concentrated on Gangapurna.

  Were able to make route safe from avalanches, which came down on both sides of route between C2 and C4, but plagued by frequent heavy snowfall. Used 1000m fixed rope C2->C3 and C3->C4 none, BC - (2x50m only). 28 Sept was summit attack day but heavy snow fell and had to descend (Cho and Ang Kami on 28th did not go above C4 but instead descended). C2 tent broken by heavy snow on 28th. No further summit bid because Koreans very tired and Sherpas did not want to climb any more (some were sick). All in BC at end of month and finally 3 Oct decided no more climbing.


expid: ANN386301
peakid: ANN3
year: 1986
route1: N Face from Gangapurna
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Jung
sponsor: Korea Seoul Alpine Assoc Exp to Gangapurna & Annapurna III
approach: Pokhara->Annapurna Sanctuary
bcdate: 1986-08-31
smtdate: 1986-09-21
termdate: 1986-09-25
termnote: Abandoned at 5300m due to shortage of equipment and heavy snow
othersmts: Attempted Gangapurna (GANG-863-01)
campsites: BC(31/08,3800m),C1(07/09,4300m),C2(21/09,5300m),xxx(21/09,5300m)
accidents: None
agency: Asian Trekking
primid: GANG86301
routememo:
  BC on west side of ridge northwest of Annapurna III.

  Team attempted to ascend Gangapurna N Face, traverse Annapurna III NE Ridge and descend Annapurna III N Ridge. Neither summit reached and no traverse made. Expedition split into two teams and attacked both peaks simultaneously. Later abandoned Annapurna III attempt and concentrated on Gangapurna.

  Annapurna III team needed more fixed rope and rock climbing equipment than expedition could spare from needs for Gangapurna, which was first priority. Had intended place a C3 at 6400m. Also had problem of heavy snow plus difficult rock climbing just below C2 on steep section; falling stone in this area. 2000m fixed rope put in between C1 and C2. On 25th Sept more heavy snowfall. All difficult parts of climb finished.


expid: ANN186303
peakid: ANN1
year: 1986
route1: NW Face/Ridge to 'Nameless Peak'
nation: France
leaders: Henri Sigayret
sponsor: French Expedition (Sigayret) Autumn 1986
bcdate: 1986-09-16
smtdate: 1986-10-08
termdate: 1986-10-09
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to high winds
othersmts: Only 'Nameless Peak'
campsites: BC(16/09,4000m),C1(18/09,4800m),C2(25/09,7000m),Biv(07/10,7500m),xxx(08/10,7900m)
accidents: Slight frostbite in toes of Gabarrou and Pemba
achievment: 1st ascent to this peak on ridge
agency: Trekking & Expedition Services (TES)
routememo:
  BC at Messner BC
  C1 at Messner C1.

  Seracs at 7200m-7300m needed fixed rope on 25th Sept and down in bad weather. Now just Gabarrou and Pemba Norbu, a good climber who does not require lots of fixed rope. Again up 3rd Oct to C1, 4th towards C2 but having to leave loads, 5th to C2, 6th bad weather and stayed C2, 7th to biv, 8th reached ridge, see not possible to reach main summit on long ridge so go to peak without name and return to biv. 9th tried to go to main summit but very cold and very strong wind, so turned back and reached C2 at night. Would have died probably if had kept on climbing because of terrible winds.

  Frequently falling seracs astonished Gabarrou at constant danger, but did not hit them.

  Bouvard left early not because sick, but unwilling to accept this danger.


expid: ANN186304
peakid: ANN1
year: 1986
route1: E Ridge (via Fluted Peak, Tarke Kang, Roc Noir)
nation: France
leaders: Marc Batard
sponsor: Annapurna 1986
countries: Belgium
approach: Pokhara->Annapurna Sanctuary
bcdate: 1986-10-19
smtdate: 1986-11-07
termdate: 1986-11-08
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m on Glacier Dome due to dangerous snow conditions
othersmts: Climbed Glacier Dome (GLAC-863-01); attempted Roc Noir (ROCN-863-01)
accidents: None
agency: Sherpa Society
campsites:
  BC(19/10,4200m),C1(21/10,5200m),C2(23/10,5800m),C3(28/10,6400m),Biv(06/11,7000m),xxx(07/11,7100m-Glacier Dome)

routememo:
  BC southwest of Tent Peak in Annapurna Sanctuary
  C1 at glacier at bottom of normal route up Tent Peak
  C2 on South Ridge of Fluted Peak
  C3 at glacier below Fluted Peak North Face
  Biv just below Rock Noir to East Ridge 
  High point at below Rock Noir's East Ridge.

  From Tent Pk 5300m to Fluted Pk, fixed 2500m fixed rope for less experienced clients on expedition. Did not climb Tent Pk, but went up small peak between Tent and Fluted Pk and then scaled Fluted Pk and down its N Face 100m to glacier (200m rope fixed here) where made C3. C3 reached by 4 French and 4 Sherpas. Then Batard and 2 Sherpas went on to make route and if possible to climb Roc Noir, to put C4 on Roc Noir summit; but stopped by very bad snow conditions of sugar snow and turned back. 7th Nov tried to climb onto E Ridge, but here snow conditions stopped them very soon going west; turned east towards Glacier Dome to try to gain ridge but again too dangerous snow. Left BC 8th Nov.


expid: ANN186301
peakid: ANN1
year: 1986
route1: N Face (French rte)
nation: Italy
leaders: Sergio Martini
sponsor: Italian Annapurna I Expedition
ascent1: 14th
bcdate: 1986-09-07
smtdate: 1986-09-21
smttime: 1345
termdate: 1986-09-23
campsites: BC(07/09,4200m),C1(10/09,4900m),Dep(11/09,5200m),Biv1(19/09,5500m),Biv2(20/09,6900m),Smt(21/09)
accidents: None
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  Deposit in moraine (rock)
  Biv2 
  Biv2 on wall left of cycle.

  Started from C1 on 19th Sept with small tent and slept that night at 5500m. 20th bived at 6900m directly below E Annapurna summit, a good place, below big seracs with no problem of small avalanches (were on French route). 21st to summit from 6900m at 1:45 pm (left biv at 4:00 am, returned to tent at 6900m at 5:30 pm). Difficult from 2nd biv, difficult ice climbing (because big avalanche had carried all snow away). Had problem of descent and so put fixed rope at places (had total only 650m rope - cut it). 22nd  slept in C1 and 23rd to BC (day French member killed by loose piton).


expid: DHA186301
peakid: DHA1
year: 1986
route1: NE Ridge-E Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Eduard Lindenthaler
sponsor: Austrian Dhaulagiri Expedition 1986
bcdate: 1986-09-16
smtdate: 1986-09-22
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to death of a member
campsites: LowBC(16/09,3700m),BC(17/09,4700m),C1(21/09,5700m),xxx(22/09,6000m)
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  Lower BC under West Wall
  BC at normal site
  C1 at NE Col
  High point at NE Ridge.

  Weather very good, no technical difficulties.

  21 Sept at lower BC, Muellender (who had lung infection) got sick. Had gone twice to 4700m on 17th and 20 Sept. Night of 20 Sept got sick again and was helped and carried to lower BC which reached 4:00 pm 21st, 7:00 pm unconscious, and 8:30 pm dead (not altitude sickness).

accidents:
  Muellender (who had lung infection) got sick (had gone twice to 4700m), night of Sep 20 got sick again & was carried to LBC, he became unconscious and by 8:30 pm dead (not altitude sickness)


expid: DHA186302
peakid: DHA1
year: 1986
route1: S Face-SW Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Eugeniusz Chrobak
sponsor: Dhaulagiri S Face 1986
countries: Australia, Canada
bcdate: 1986-09-16
smtdate: 1986-11-01
termdate: 1986-11-04
termnote: Abandoned at 7550m due to wind destroying C5
accidents: Nothing very serious
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(16/09,3800m),C1(22/09,5300m),C2(02/10,5800m),C3(20/10,6100m),C4(26/10,7100m),C5(31/10,7500m),xxx(01/11,7550m)

routememo:
  BC at 3800m Thula Khola's east moraine
  C3 at 6100m start of snow rib
  C4 at 7100m above big seracs, left of snow rib
  C5 at 7500m col giving across to West Ridge
  High point on West Ridge.

  Very difficult route climbed: rock BC to C2, snow above to ridge. At C5 wind so strong picked up tent after poles broken and lifted collapsed tent off mountain. Took 2 weeks to get to BC cutting the jungle, making bridges, fixing rope for porters who gave lot of troubles. 1 week lost here might have spelled defeat in late Oct. Winds were not problem on face route but at ridge were very strong. Did have snow fall, block avalanche problems, rock avalanche cut fixed ropes and just missed climbers on exposed lower section of route several times, rock section not so difficult but snow section was sugar-snow and rib treacherously soft. Above C2 some days only 40-50m gained. Wind had smashed C5. No time left on 3 months air ticket.

  Total 3000m rope fixed on route. All technical climbing finished but after C5 destroyed by wind, would have taken 10 days to remount summit bid.


expid: DHA186303
peakid: DHA1
year: 1986
route1: NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: James Merel
sponsor: Haute Tarentaise Dhaulagiri Expedition
bcdate: 1986-09-24
smtdate: 1986-10-05
termdate: 1986-10-08
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to dangerous snow conditions
campsites: BC(24/09,4600m),C1(25/09,4900m),C2(26/09,5600m),xxx(05/10,6100m)
accidents: None ('We stopped before any accident occurred')
agency: Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 just above icefall
  C2 at Col
  High point at snow slope below steep ridge.

  Late Sept a lot of snow: 27 Sept more than 1 meter snow at BC, so stayed in BC for 7 days while snow kept falling. 2 Oct started up from BC and on 3rd reached C2 but camp in bad condition and avalanching going on. Stayed 4 days at C2 with one day 40 cm snowfall. 4 Oct tried to reach C3 site at 6300m but could not go above 6100m because very dangerous snow ("we swam in snow"), so down to BC 6th Oct and called off climb because no chance to reach summit. 1st Oct was big avalanche from top of Dhaulagiri and its blasts of air hit BC. Left BC 8 or 9 Oct.


expid: TRIP86301
peakid: TRIP
year: 1986
route1: NW Ridge to N Peak
nation: Japan
leaders: Noriyuki Hata
sponsor: Okayama University-Nepal Himalaya Exp to Tripura Hiunchuli
ascent1: 1st
bcdate: 1986-09-24
smtdate: 1986-10-17
smttime: 1015
campsites: BC(24/09,4500m),C1(29/09,5500m),C2(14/10,5300m),Smt(17/10)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  15 Oct made route above Attack Camp, 16 Oct snowing, 17 Oct to summit. Planned second summit bid but one member's snowblindness aborted this. Difficult parts: C1 to C2 rock and snow mixed near a col; even more difficult were 2 pitches above C2 on rock traverse. 

  Members went to Jumla from KTM by scheduled flight (sirdar and loads by bus to Nepalgunj and porters to Jumla). From Jumla trekked Hurikot via Goth (via Charikot on return) to Jagdula Khola. 

accidents:
  1 member snowblinded; mailrunner fell on approach march; Ang Phuri 3 frostbitten fingers on 2 hands on summit day; other Sherpa sick and left team early


expid: TUKU86301
peakid: TUKU
year: 1986
route1: NW Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Bhagirath Narsingh Rana
sponsor: RNA Expedition to Tukuche Peak Autumn 1986
ascent1: 9th-11th
bcdate: 1986-10-12
smtdate: 1986-10-22
campsites: BC(12/10,5000m),C1(18/10,6450m),Smt(22-23,25/10)
accidents: None
agency: Royal Nepalese Army (RNA)
routememo:
  Climb was part of a Royal Nepal Army training program. RNA major (a team member) thinks there is only one route on Tukuche and thus they climbed standard route.


expid: GYAC86101
peakid: GYAC
year: 1986
route1: S Face-SW Pillar
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Claude Marmier
sponsor: France-Nepali Joint Expedition to Gyachung Kang
ascent1: 3rd-5th
countries: Nepal
approach: Jiri->Gokyo Valley
bcdate: 1986-04-21
smtdate: 1986-05-12
smttime: 1630
termdate: 1986-05-15
campsites: BC(21/04,5050m),C1(28/04,5200m),C2(29/04,6250m),C3(07/05,7150m),Smt(12-13,15/05)
accidents: One member injured his toe at night; slightly frostbitten fingers of May 11 summit party
achievment: New route, 1st French ascent
agency: Sherpa Trekking Service (STS)
routememo:
  BC south of near junction of Lungsampa and Ngojumpa Glacier
  C1 just north of rock spur's point 5695m
  C2 northeast of point 6280m and northwest of point 6406m
  C3 at bottom of rock chimney.

  Very dangerous icefall above C1. Long route (5 hrs) from C1 to C2, then bergschrund at 6500m. Above C3 2 difficult chimneys and just below summit difficult climbing on bare rock. Route safe above icefall: no avalanche danger all route is steep (60 degrees to vertical). 

  One party attempted summit on 11th May but very cold strong wind and gave up 100m below summit (were Flematti and Royer). Next days not so cold and wind not so strong although some fog and light snowfall.

  One Nepalese member Khatri, climbed to C2 once; otherwise 3 Nepali members stayed at BC and asked French why they climbed; had been ordered to go on expedition: did not volunteer.


expid: CHOY86102
peakid: CHOY
year: 1986
route1: W Ridge-W Face (Tichy)
nation: USA
leaders: James Frush
sponsor: Cowboys on Cho Oyu
ascent1: 25th
countries: Canada, UK
bcdate: 1986-04-07
smtdate: 1986-05-11
smttime: 1430
campsites: BC(07/04,5200m),C1(17/04,5900m),C2(20/04,6400m),C3(22/04,6700m),C4(10/05,7500m),Smt(11/05)
accidents: None
achievment: 1st British ascent; perhaps 1st American ascent
agency: Jai Himal Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 5200m at Dzasampa according to Schneider map
  C1 at Gyabrag Glacier near "c" of Glacier on Schneider map 
  C2 at 6446m
  C3 at 6700m at base of icefall due east of point 6446m
  C4 at 7500m at base of rock band in rocks at bad site.

  Frush claims first American ascent on May 11. Claims that Smith and Schleypen of W German/USA expedition did not reach true summit on May 9 (they only reached summit plateau).

  Between BC and C1 had 2 temporary camps for moving loads and local porters carried to C1 and then they went home to Thami and members were alone from C1 onwards. Then in a push established C1, C2 and C3 and fixed rope in icefall above C3, then retreated in deteriorating weather for rest and waited for better weather at BC. Made summit attempt from C3 on 7th, but high winds defeated this bid not far above C3 and no C4 put in place on this try. 2nd bid on 10 May, when did pitch C4 at 7:30 pm. Bacon and Schertz supported Frush and Hambly; Bacon and Schertz would have gotten to top if otherse in support of them, but none of others went above C4.

  There is no doubt Smith and Schleypen reached actual summit from Swiss team on 9th May considering where they were seen by this US etc expedition and time seen, and doubts expressed by Swiss members. Frush will write Smith for photo of him with Chinese flag.


  Frush - 28 Sept 95

  Frush and Hambly did not see Everest and Lhotse because it was cloudy. We did go on beyond 1st bump in most interminable walk of my life taking 25 breaths per step to reach summit watched on 9 May, saw 1 man (or 2) from Woerner's expedition reach 1st bump on top of Cho Oyu early in morning and start down only 15-30 meters later. Woerner said Smith got to top of rock band, i.e., first bump, but Woerner hadn't reached that point - said 1st bump was good enough. Woerner's team claims were revised after Frush's claim to have been 1st American and Smith realized he could have been 1st American himself. At first Smith said he had no photos, then photos appeared but of different flags at different place.


  Letter to Miss Hawley by Jim Frush - Sept 23, 1986

  Enclosed are the photos I mentioned in my letter of August 23.

  I hope that they resolve the question of who reached the true summit of Cho Oyu. The photos were taken two days apart in a period of relatively settled weather. There is no sign in our photos of the blue and white scarf that Jan Smith indicated he tied to the summit marker. It appears to me and others who have viewed the photos that they are of two different places. I have supplied the photos to Mr.Smith but have not received a reply.


  Letter to Miss Hawley by Jim Frush - Aug 22, 1986

  I wrote to Mr. Smith who replied he had no picture of himself on the summit.

  Fortunately, he enclosed, however a slide that purported to show the summit marker. We were able to compare his slide to our photos and were pleased to discover that it appears, as proven by his own photo, that Mr. Smith reached only the false summit and not the true summit, located further back on the summit plateau. I'm having copies of the photos made and will forward a set to you within two weeks. And I have so notified Mr. Smith.

  It appears necessary to get into this as Summit Magazine reported last week that Mr. Smith reached the summit. This report was submitted by Mike Cheney. Perhaps you would be so kind as to pass the information and the photos on to him, and ask him to correct the Summit article.


expid: CHOY86101
peakid: CHOY
year: 1986
route1: SW Pillar-W Face (Polish 1986)
nation: Poland
leaders: Ryszard Gajewski
sponsor: Zakopane Spring 1986 Cho Oyu
ascent1: 18th-20th
bcdate: 1986-04-04
smtdate: 1986-04-29
achievment: Variation on standard route
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(04/04,5300m),C1(07/04,5600m),C2.ABC(10/04,6000m),C3(20/04,6700m),C4(25/04,7200m),C5(26/04,7600m),Smt(29/04,01,03/05)

routememo:
  "Very easy" says leader. Only problem is political problem of border. Summiters found on top and took photo of Chinese flag and Tibetan woman's photo on a pole.

accidents:
  Danielak after summit became ill and worried he had pulmonary edema; Terlikowski feared frostbite on 1 May and turned back from summit push but nothing serious


expid: CHOY86103
peakid: CHOY
year: 1986
route1: E Ridge from S Face of Ngozumba Kang
route2: SW Pillar-W Face (Polish 1986)
nation: W Germany
leaders: Stefan Woerner
sponsor: Swiss Cho Oyu Expedition 1986
ascent2: 21st-24th,26th
countries: Austria, Czechoslovakia, Switzerland, USA, Yugoslavia
bcdate: 1986-04-16
smtdate: 1986-05-05
smttime: 1100
termdate: 1986-05-16
accidents: None
achievment: 1st Swiss, American and Yugoslav ascents
agency: Lama
campsites:
  BC(16/04,5100m),ABC(02/05,6050m),C1(05/05,6700m),C2(07/05,7000m),C3(08/05,7500m),Smt(05,09-11,16/05)

routememo:
  BC at 5100m near Gokyo, ABC 3 hours from Gokyo
  C1 at same camp sites as Poles.

  First tried to climb via S Face of Ngojumba and put a C1 at 6100m on 23 April and reached 6400m on 24th but then encountered chaos of seracs and crevasses which was very dangerous and decided to abandon this route (which French on Gyachung Kang actually did follow in lower part of their climb), requested change of route permit from HMG (got no answer) and went to Pole's route as above. Short direct route, technically more difficult than Tichy route but could be done by strong team without the 700m fixed rope put in by Poles. Very safe route without objective dangers and very beautiful ice ridges. On upper part was no snow this spring.

  6 members left before climb entirely finished, but no reason for them to stay since summit teams were not supported from BC.

  E Ridge appears equally difficult as Lhotse Shar. Lhotse traverse plus dangerous lower part of climb.

  Frush claims first American ascent on May 11. Claims that Smith and Schleypen of W German/USA expedition did not reach true summit on May 9 (they only reached summit plateau).


  Schleypen - 3 Nov 95

  Confident he reached Cho Oyu's summit in 1986. Went to what surely was highest point of plateau (where there was pole with cloth, flags, as per Smith's photo), which took 30-45 minutes to reach from edge of plateau first reached - did not see Chinese metal flag (Frush's photo).


  Habeler and Ruedi arrived BC on 21 April and 3 days later expedition decided 2000m fixed rope required for Ngojumba East Ridge to Cho Oyu plus 3 months time, so idea of trying this route abandoned and went to new route via 2 passes of 5700m to depot near Polish and US BC and did two ferries of loads (Habeler and Ruedi were first members to explore for new route). As for 1st time at depot on 28 Apr. 29 Apr went over Nangpa La and slept at Tichy camp near US. 2 May arrived at Poles ABC. 3 May Habeler and Ruedi left ABC to go as high as possible arriving at Poles C4 but a actually went to Poles C5 (Habeler and Ruedi C1) at 4:00 pm. 4 May stormy and very cold so all day in tent. 5 May left C1 7:30 am and on top 11:00 am. Stayed 1/2 hour in warm weather and very cloudy to south. Saw and photographed Chinese pole on summit "with lady on it" (hard to see pole on large summit plateau). Back in C1 1:00 pm, had tea and went on down. Nasty weather in which had trouble finding ridge to descend but continued to ABC at 7:00 pm.


  Letter from Stefan Woerner to Miss Hawley, July 17,1986

  What concerns Jan Smith's climb of Cho Oyu in my team last spring, I think there should be no doubt that he has been at the very top. Jan has sent me slides that can be only be taken from the top. One slide that I have not seen he has already sent to Jim Frush, showing the Chinese flag on the top. Please also receive a copy of the letter Jan Smith sent to Jim Frush in this matter.


  Letter to Jim Frush from Jan Smith, June 21 1986

  I reached the summit of Cho Oyu about midday on May 9th. But you'll have to take my word for it; I was on the summit alone. I'm not plugging Rolexes, so I didn't take any effort to photograph myself. I did photograph the summit marker and the view. Several transparencies are enclosed. One taken from the southern rim of the summit looks down on the area of our base-camp on the western edge of the Lungsampa Glacier. The blue silk scarf with white Chinese characters that you can see hanging from the summit marker is mine; I met my friend Rudiger Schleypen at the northern edge of the summit plateau; he continued on to the summit and I went on down to our camp where we spent the night. If it's important enough you should talk to Rudiger.

  Slides: 
  Cho Oyu summit stake, Jan's pack and poles
  Sagarmatha, Lhotse view @105mm
  View south-southeast down Ngojumba Glacier


expid: AMAD86101
peakid: AMAD
year: 1986
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Iain Allen
sponsor: Kenya Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Australia, Kenya, USA
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1986-03-31
smtdate: 1986-04-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to cold afternoon snow and severe climb
campsites: BC(31/03,4555m),ABC(04/04,5000m),C1(08/04,5760m),C2(15/04,5940m),C3(19/04,62250m),xxx(20/04,6400m)
accidents: Kleppinger had constant stomach problems & never got beyond C1
agency: Himalayan Journeys
routememo:
  BC at 4555m at near Mingbo by Horner and Stevenson 
     (who arrived at mountain before the others)
  ABC at bottom of the ridge
  C1 on S Ridge
  C2 on S Ridge
  C3 at top of S Ridge at big mushroom.

  20 April all members except Kleppinger started up at 6:30 am but wind was so cold returned to camp and waited for sun's warmth; started again at about 10:00 am but still cold wind which cleared ice sheet of all snow meant climb on this steep (70 degrees) section was too much for them. Spent night again at C3 and then down in deteriorating weather with snow every afternoon. Epic getting off mountain's snow and ice covering rock ridge. Rock itself between C2 and C3 very rough.


expid: NUPT86101
peakid: NUPT
year: 1986
route1: S Spur of SE Smt
nation: USA
leaders: Jeff Lowe
sponsor: Colorado Kangtega-Nuptse Expedition
bcdate: 1986-05-10
smtdate: 1986-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 6770m due to snowfall
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East and Kangtega (KTEG-861-02)
accidents: None
agency: Mountain Travel
campsites:
  BC(10/05,5200m),Biv1(19/05,5800m),Biv2(21/05,6100m),Biv3(22/05,6300m),Biv4(24/05,6500m),Biv5(25/05,6700m),xxx(26/05,6770m)

routememo:
  BC on west side of Lhotse Nuptse Glacier
  Biv 1 on South Spur
  Biv 2 on South Spur
  Biv 3 on South Spur
  Biv 4 in cave on South Spur
  Biv 5 on South Spur
  High point on South Spur.

  Alpine-style attempt SE Buttress (between original British route and Cassin-Messner ramp).

  12th May recce and left cache of gear 18,500 ft. Then snowfall and unable to go up till 19th when started up again and reached 19,000 ft. 21st moved up again and by 26th had just about reached top of spur and then gaing would have been "a lot easier" to SE Peak at 25,600 ft, but "got weathered off" and 3 days more climbing to this summit. Spur was very severe hard rock and snow made it impossible to climb. "Is fabulous climb, best in the area" - perfect rock (hard granite), steep, difficult, safe (only one rock fall during climb), technical climb to 23,000 ft where easy black rock, snow and ice begin.

  Lowe and Twight plan to return to this route this winter.


  Sandy Allan, Lhotse Shar - 25 Aug 86

  Nuptse: 22 May Allan left Nuptse area and that day Lowe and Twight were well up Nuptse buttress. Were on their 4th day of their push (had taken 10 days food with them). Lowe now plans to return to KTM 3 June.


expid: KTEG86102
peakid: KTEG
year: 1986
route1: NW Face/Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Jeff Lowe
sponsor: Colorado Kangtega-Nuptse Expedition
ascent1: 5th
countries: UK
bcdate: 1986-04-13
smtdate: 1986-05-01
termdate: 1986-05-03
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East; attempted Nuptse (NUPT-861-01)
accidents: None
achievment: 1st British ascent
agency: Mountain Travel
campsites:
  BC(13/04,4270m),Biv1(23/04,5200m),Biv2(24/04,5800m),Biv3(27/04,6100m),Biv4(29/04,6250m),Biv5(30/04,6400m),Smt(01/05)

routememo:
  BC at Omega Valley
  C1 just short of getting glacier running south from Omega
  C2 just 300 hundred feet short of col at 5865m
  C3 at snow cave on tongue of ice (hanging glacier)
  C4 at bottom of crevasse on a serac near West Summit
  C5 at main summit plateau in snow cave.

  Ascent on right side of NW Ridge. Frost and Lowe climbed lower northwest peak; Hargreaves and Twight climbed main peak up steep ice face. Descent was by northeast couloir.

  Roghaar and Frost worked on lower part of route after others went to Lobuche on 14th (and returned on 21st April) and pushed route to 17,000 ft to get onto glacier and 5 members (excluding Kendall) started up together on 23 April aiming for Col at 5865m. 24th reached near Col, 25th down to 17,000 ft and made another carry to 19,000 ft by 4 while Roghaar feeling unwell, descended and abandoned climb. 27th moved from col up rope on 2 pitches up headwall above ice tongue. 29th four members moved camp up headwall. 30th four climbed on ice gully and traversed into a notch between north and main summits to main summit plateau. Lowe had bronchitis and health deteriorating on 30 April. Surprised on 1 May to find very difficult ice climb to top up steep fluting, so Hargreaves and Twight went up for top with all of expedition's small supply of ice screws and rope while Lowe and Frost went to subsidiary summit (6685m) in easy climb and descended onto Hinku Nuptse Glacier at 19,000 ft on top 1979 route. 2 May summiters followed same descent route. All in BC 2 May. 

  Lobuche East first by Hargreaves, Kendall, Lowe and Twight.

  Roghaar left Nepal about 3 May.
  Frost returned to KTM 9 May and leaves Nepal 14 May.
  Kendall returns to KTM 11 May.
  Lowe returns to KTM about 25-27 May and leave Nepal end of May.


expid: AMAD86102
peakid: AMAD
year: 1986
route1: W Face up; SW Ridge down
nation: W Germany
leaders: Hans Eitel
sponsor: Lampertheimer Himalaya-Expedition Nepal 1986
ascent1: 46th
countries: Austria, Italy, USA
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1986-03-30
smtdate: 1986-04-15
smttime: 1100
termdate: 1986-04-17
othersmts: Attempted Kangtega (KTEG-861-01) (by 8 members)
campsites: BC(30/03,4700m),C1(08/04,5100m),C2(09/04,5600m),Smt(15/04)
accidents: None
achievment: Fastest ascent of Ama Dablam
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Mingbo by Brugger & Walde and kitchen staff
  C1 at moraine at bottom of Face (no tent - rock shelter)
  C2 at behind serac at start of face.

  2 men went direct to Ama Dablam and other 8 arrived at BC 9 April. Started on Hillary route. Was little snow, mostly climbed on rocks to left side of hanging glacier, over serac line. On 15 April at 2:00 am Brugger and Walde began summit push from C2 and got to top at 11:00 am and descended normal route on South Ridge to 5700m (British team's C1) and slept there. 16 April 8:00 am returned to BC. Difficult rock at 65-degree steepness (short sections 70 degrees). Eitel and Santer went to C2 only, others BC only; these 8 left BC 12 April.

  On 10 April descended to BC for rest. On 14 April went from BC to C2 in 2-1/4 hours.


expid: KTEG86101
peakid: KTEG
year: 1986
route1: SE Face
nation: W Germany
leaders: Hans Eitel
sponsor: Lampertheimer Himalaya-Expedition Nepal 1986
countries: Austria, Italy, USA
bcdate: 1986-03-30
smtdate: 1986-04-08
termdate: 1986-04-10
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to avalanching and lack of time.
othersmts: Climbed Ama Dablam (AMAD-861-02)
campsites: BC(30/03,4700m),C1(06/04,5300m),xxx(08/04,6000m)
accidents: None
agency: Asian Trekking
primid: AMAD86102
routememo:
  On 8 April made fixed ropes to 6000m and down, but after 2 days abandoned climb because of wind and more importantly avalanches. Huge serac avalanches came down and in fact original route no longer possible and one must go on E Ridge. Came away from 6400-6500m area.

  Then went to Ama Dablam.


expid: KANG86101
peakid: KANG
year: 1986
route1: SW Face
nation: Australia
leaders: Michael Groom
sponsor: Australian Kangchenjunga Expedition
bcdate: 1986-04-13
smtdate: 1986-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 8400m due to lack of experience and strength (can't really blame the weather)
campsites: BC(13/04,5500m),C1(18/04,6100m),C2(26/04,6700m),C3(11/05,7100m),C4(12/05,7600m),xxx(13/05,8400m)
accidents: None except Groom slight frostbite from 1-foot snow on gangway on May 13
achievment: 1st Australian attempt
agency: Remote Adventure
routememo:
  BC at 5300m at normal site on Yalung Glacier
  C1 at 6100m near top of the hump
  C2 at 6700m a little way up second icefall
  C3 at 7100m just below Great Shelf
  C4 at 7600m 200m below normal spot which is at bottom of gangway.

  Groom reached 8400m on 13 May in attempt to see how high he could get above C4; turned back when wind came up and skies clouded over. Rejoined Chemello and Van Gelder at C4 at 7600m.

  C4 too low because the two climbers with Groom pushing up to C4 having trouble in deep snow and were not very strong up. On 13th May Groom went on up alone to see how high he could get; took no bivy gear with him and returned to C4 same day. Frost and Strohfeldt had given up after 26th April when bad weather drove all down to BC. Other three waited for snowfall to stop and then tried summit push. All but Groom had no Himalayan expedition experience and Groom turned back at 8400m because he himself "didn't know what to expect at 8400m." Had been agreed second push would be the last.


expid: MAKA86101
peakid: MAKA
year: 1986
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Ned Gillette
sponsor: American Makalu Expedition
approach: Shipton Pass->Barun Glacier (BC)
bcdate: 1986-04-18
smtdate: 1986-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to lack of manpower, route difficulty
campsites: BC(18/04,5300m),C1(23/04,5800m),C2(28/04,6400m),C3(02/05,7040m),C4(14/05,7440m),xxx(25/05,8100m)
accidents: Dube serious altitude sickness; Wilcox intestinal illness
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC at normal high BC site at glaciers' junction
  C1 at east branch of Chago Glacier
  C2 south of 6550m col at beginning of steep climb to Makalu Col
  C4 on Makalu La
  High point on North Face.

  Early May very cold strong winds blew from Tibet so retreated to BC. Lot of wind throughout climbing period but little snowfall. Could walk from BC to C2 in tennis shoes. After made C4 again winds fierce and down to BC. 2 members left expedition (a member found this climb not for him). Other 2 members headed up again on 20th May but Wilcox got sick at C3 and went down 22nd May with one Sherpa. Gillette continued up with 3 Sherpas to C4 in fierce winds fixing 100 ft rope. 2 more days winds to 80 mph. Started up on 2 successive days with 4 Sherpas turned back while Gillette using oxygen carried on up alone to see where he could get. No wind now, perfect weather, but steep rock at high altitude alone struck Gillette as not wise and he turned back at 8100m (he had never been above 7600m before in his career).


  Bouchard - 27 May 1986

  Bouchard left BC 19 May. All down in BC. 4 people 4 oxygen not enough so 2 including Bouchard volunteered to give up theirs leaving Gillette and Wilcox for summit push leaving BC 21 May and getting to top about 25 May.

  C4 about 200m above North Col = 7600m occupied about 10 May
  C3 = 7000m 
  C2 = 6400m

  Chous may have left BC soon after Bouchard
  Bouchard leave KTM 28 May


expid: MAK286101
peakid: MAK2
year: 1986
route1: NW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Glenn Fortner
sponsor: 1986 Colorado Kangchungtse Expedition
approach: Shipton Pass->Barun Glacier (BC)
bcdate: 1986-03-31
smtdate: 1986-04-20
termdate: 1986-04-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to altitude problem and 1 member's death
campsites: BC(31/03),ABC(05/04,5150m),C1(09/04,5975m),C2(11/04,6475m),xxx(20/04,6700m)
accidents: 1 member dead from AMS
agency: Above the Clouds
routememo:
  BC on big ledge just above junction of Barun & Chago Glacier
  C1 at Chago Glacier east of "g" and of central rock
  High point on NW Ridge.

  C2 never actually occupied but stocked with 32 man-days food and all equipment and fuel ready for climb planned to sleep there for first time on 12th April; all doing well and in good spirits. C2 to be occupied by 3 members; then Terrell got pulmonary edema that night and began to get him down at midnight and reached BC at 7:30 am 12th apparently much better but 3 pm started descent and required being carried. Got him to 16,900 ft by dark and trail too narrow to carry in dark; Sherpas summoned and next dawn began carry again but suddenly he became actually ill and died and was buried near where died. 2 members not acclimatizing well and Ken's wife had arrived with trekkers so now only 3 members returned to climb: on 17th to C1. Bruce sick again. 2 members to C2 on 18th and went on through to NW Ridge to 22,000 ft and then turned back though could have gotten to top (no technical difficulties) and slept that night at C1 - were "emotionally depleted" and had no support. Cleared mountain and left BC 20th April after giving their food to Makalu expedition.

  * Illness was apparent edema but some puzzling aspects and this by no means certain diagnosis (to which Dr. David Shlim of H.R.A. agrees after talking with Ruggera).


  Kangchungtse, Ministry of Tourism - 20 April 86

  Terrell got altitude sickness at 5950m on April 11 at 2400 hours; taken to ABC at 8100 ft on April 12 by Ruggera, Madden and Langbons; arrived at ABC at 05:00 hours; Fortner, Ruggera and kitchen boy took him down from ABC towards BC and died at 5180 ft at 8:45 am on 13 April.

  Not decided whether to abandon climb.


expid: LSHR86101
peakid: LSHR
year: 1986
route1: SE Ridge for acclimatization (to 7000m)
route2: New route on S Pillar (Face) (no attempt)
nation: UK
leaders: Sandy Allan, Malcolm Duff
sponsor: British Lhotse Expedition
bcdate: 1986-04-19
smtdate: 1986-05-09
termnote: Primary attempt abandoned at 7000m due to Duff's injury
campsites: BC(19/04,5300m),C1(30/04,5670m),C2(01/05,6400m),xxx(09/05,7000m)
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC at 5300m below SE Face on Lhotse Shar Glacier south of Island Peak
  C1 at 5670m on a buttress
  C2 at 6400m on SE Face in snow hole above rock barrier
  High point at 7000m at SE Face.

  First attempt on SE Face abandoned after Duff's injury. 

  Allan later joined by Alison Hargreaves for second attempt on SE Face. This attempt abandoned at 6500m due to slab avalanches.

  Original plan was for new route on S Face (this route never attempted).

  7th May went up from BC, slept at C2 on 8th left at midnight and got to 23,000 ft at 6:00 am 9th May and Duff hit by falling serac, so both descended immediately and were back in BC 4:00 pm to Pheriche 10th. Duff left expedition and Alison Hargreaves joined Allan 15th at Dingboche after he had packed up BC; they then went back to try for top while Duff came to Kathmandu.

accidents:
  Duff hit by falling serac on head on May 8 (bled, partly unconcious and left expedition, will have brain scan in London)


expid: ANNS86101
peakid: ANNS
year: 1986
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Marija Frantar
sponsor: Yugoslav S Annapurna Women's Expedition
bcdate: 1986-04-16
smtdate: 1986-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 6050m due to bad weather and season finishing
campsites: BC(16/04,4050m),ABC(18/04,4800m),C1(24/04,5700m),C2(09/05,5800m),Biv(22/05,6100m),xxx(22/05,6050m)
accidents: 1 member hit by snow avalanche in 1st couloir but not serious
achievment: 1st Yugoslav attempt
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC  at 4050m at Khyumbu Glacier
  ABC at 4800m at west of glacier towards face of SW Ridge
  C1  at 5600m on SW Ridge
  C2  at 5800m on ridge beyond rock and snow peaks
  Biv at 6100m 200m beyond Japanese peak 5970m 
  High point at 6050m at bivouac.

  From ABC to C1 2 couloirs. Took route slightly different from Japanese route, joined ridge S of Japanese point of joining it. Above C1 was difficult rock peak with 4 rock steps; then down and traversed to middle of 3 peaks, then several snow peaks. Beyond C3 was 300m saddle but very sharp ridge here and very steep on both sides and above (=beyond) saddle, steep rock peak (5970m), followed by rock and snow peaks an fixed 3000m rope from point 5970m. 

  Fixed total 3500m rope, even snow peaks very narrow and ridge all up and down. Planned total 4 high camps above ABC but sites very difficult (sides of ridge 45 degrees hard ice) and 2000m rope fixed rope needed.

  Komprej hit by snow avalanche in 1st couloir but not serious. Constant snowfall meant camps on ridge covered by wind driven snow and ropes often covered by snow. Had only 4 days without snowfall and often had trouble seeing route when were in low clouds. Then last week of climbing strong winds. With no Sherpas with them, exhaustion setting in, in such weather would have taken this team another month to reach summit. This mountain really too difficult for them.


expid: GANG86101
peakid: GANG
year: 1986
route1: E Ridge from S
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Ki-Chul
sponsor: 1986 Korean Gangapurna Expedition
ascent1: 10th,11th
bcdate: 1986-03-26
smtdate: 1986-04-18
smttime: 1345
campsites: BC(26/03,4200m),C1(29/03,4900m),C2(10/04,5550m),C3(13/04,6300m),C4(16/04,6800m),Smt(18,20/04)
accidents: None
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at East Annapurna Glacier, west of Annapurna II's SW Ridge
  C1 above Glacier
  C2 on rock (below East Ridge)
  C3 at top of icefall (still below ridge)
  C4 just above col between Gangapurna and Annapura III (where route joined East Ridge).

  Same route and campsites as that of Poles in autumn 1985; others to East Ridge very nearly same route with camps at different altitudes. Between C1 and C2 broken seracs and crevasses made difficulties. Summit ridge: rock one side, snow other side: long way and needed fixed rope, which installed on rock side (S side). C3 to C4 difficult blue ice. Total 2000m fixed rope. Tricky finding route from C1 to C2.


expid: ANN186101
peakid: ANN1
year: 1986
route1: S Face (Polish rte)
nation: Bulgaria
leaders: Boyan Atanassov
sponsor: Bulgarian Winter Expedition Annapurna 1986
bcdate: 1986-03-25
smtdate: 1986-05-09
termnote: Abandoned at 7550m due to dangerous conditions
campsites: BC(25/03,4200m),C1(09/04,5400m),C2(6200m),C2A(6400m),C3(22/04,6850m),xxx(09/05,7550m)
accidents: None
agency: Trekking & Expedition Services (TES)
routememo:
  Second attempt on Annapurna I by Bulgarian 1985 winter expedition. Team reduced to 9 Bulgarians and 3 Sherpas. High point at S on South Face.

  Had to reestablish several camps several times because of heavy snowfall and C3 in crevasse which opened up. Required climbing on 7th April only and continued till 24th April when had been working above C3 for 2 days. After 24th again much snowfall & on 24th all down to BC. 6th May again up and discovered falling stones had badly damaged fixed ropes in at least 10 places. On 9th May decided to quit because of extreme danger when couldn't see where ropes were damaged. Went up to 7550m on 9th May (had been only to 7400m on 23/24 April). Had intended to make one more camp above C3 at 7275m (Pole's C5).


expid: ANN186102
peakid: ANN1
year: 1986
route1: N Face (French rte)
nation: Italy
leaders: Giacomo Stefani
sponsor: Spedizione Citta de Lecco 1986 to Annapurna I
approach: Mristi Khola
bcdate: 1986-04-12
smtdate: 1986-04-25
termdate: 1986-05-04
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to bad snow conditions and weather not improving
campsites: BC(12/04,4150m),C1(14/04,4850m),C2(20/04,5450m),C3(25/04,6200m),xxx(25/04,6200m)
accidents: None except bruised shoulder in avalanche
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC at 4150m (usual site for North Face climbs)
  C1 at usual (usual site for North Face climbs))
  C2 at 4850m (usual site for North Face climbs)
  C3 at 50m or so from usual site for North Face climbs
  High point at C3 site.

  Had to fix rope to C1, mostly a walk up from BC, because of much snow lying there. Decided to switch from NW Ridge to N Face route because ridge was all exposed rock, not snow-covered as anticipated and for which they were equipped.

  On 25th April put all equipment for C3 at 6200m site but bad weather coming and did not sleep there. Now all down in BC during 4 days snowfall (30 cm snowfall daily). 29th good weather and 30th started up again. On 1 May all 5 from C1 to C2 and on the way all were hit by slab avalanche but went to C2 for that night but next day all down to BC to wait for better snow conditions. Then again period of frequent snowfall and then 2 tents at BC destroyed by wind. Went up to clear C1 and C2 on 5th and 6th May, but did not go above C2 because snow conditions too dangerous.


expid: LANG86101
peakid: LANG
year: 1986
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kenryo Numa
sponsor: Ohtani Himalaya Alpine Club Langtang Lirung Expedition 1986
ascent1: 6th
bcdate: 1986-03-23
smtdate: 1986-05-03
campsites: BC(23/03,4160m),C1(28/03,4800m),C2(05/04,5600m),C3(24/04,6100m),C4(0/04,6450m),Smt(03/05)
accidents: None
agency: Yeti Mountaineering & Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 4160m beside Langtang Glacier (west side)
  C1 at 4800m on plateau further up west side of Langtang Glacier
  C2 at 5600m on SE Ridge
  C3 at 6100m on SE Ridge
  C4 at 6450m on SE Ridge but slightly flat area.

  Very difficult mixed rock and ice knife edges above C2 required 900m fixed rope to C3 (total on mountain 2500m); otherwise easy route; rest hope for safety. Only 1 summit party because not enough food.


expid: MANA86101
peakid: MANA
year: 1986
route1: NE Face
nation: W Germany
leaders: Michel Dacher
sponsor: Schuster Manaslu Expedition to Manaslu
countries: Austria
bcdate: 1986-04-05
smtdate: 1986-05-03
termdate: 1986-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to bad weather and fixed date to leave BC (May 13)
campsites: BC(05/04,3900m),C1(09/04,5150m),C2(13/04,6200m),C3(15/04,6850m),C4(03/05,7400m),xxx(03/05,7400m)
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC at 3900m at 1-1/2 hours from Samagaon
  C1 at 5150m at 2 hours below Naike Col
  C2 at 6200m just above white serac zone on NE Face
  C3 at 6850m just below North Col
  C4 at 7400m on rocky shoulder above N Col
  High point at C4.

  15th April to early May bad weather (thunderstorms and heavy snowfall). C4 pitched on 3 May and deserted on 4th. All survivors in BC 4th May except Baessler who got to BC on 6th and evacuated by helicopter 9th May with Wirthensohn. On 9th started up again, reached C3, looked for 2 dead men, another half-meter snowfell and on 11th abandoned climb.

  Klaiber fell in fixed ropes returning to C3 after seeing he could not reach C4, no one saw fall, he just disappeared. 

  May 4 Oberbichler fell descending from C3 because heavy snowfall (again fall not seen but he was found badly bashed).


expid: GAN186101
peakid: GAN1
year: 1986
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Olivier Matile
sponsor: Swiss Ganesh I Expedition
bcdate: 1986-04-20
smtdate: 1986-05-03
termdate: 1986-05-06
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to bad weather, frequent heavy snowfall and wind
campsites: BC(20/04,3800m),C1(23/04,4500m),C2(01/05,5100m),C3(02/05,5600m),xxx(03/05,5800m)
accidents: None
agency: Remote Adventure
routememo:
  BC at Sanjung Kharka
  C1 at Sanjung Glacier.

  As per our letter dated June 9, 86 through Chibere Khola.

  Until 5700m, no difficulty. Between 5100-5600m, steep slopes with unstable deep and heavy snow. Up 5700m, long steep corridor (6000m, 45-60 degrees) with very deep dangerous snow.


expid: LSIS86101
peakid: LSIS
year: 1986
route1: S Face-SW Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Martin Hunter
sponsor: New Zealand Langshisa Ri Expedition
ascent1: 6th
bcdate: 1986-04-08
smtdate: 1986-04-14
smttime: 1200
termdate: 1986-04-16
campsites: BC(08/04,4500m),C1(12/04,5700m),Smt(14/04)
accidents: None
achievment: 1st New Zealand ascent
agency: White Magic
routememo:
  BC at 4500m at Langshisa Glacier 
  C1 at 5700m on plateau up against SW Ridge by all 5 members.

  No technical difficulties from BC to C1, just long slog. 13 April did recce from plateau and next day and technical climb to summit. Left C1 at 3:30 am and 1st pair got to top after 9 hrs. Had 50m snow gully which was soft snow and thus slow but only about 40 degrees. Next was hard ice 45-60 degrees face with rock band through it which was moderately difficult. Had good weather on summit day.


  Notes:

  1)-> C1 up a snow-covered scree slope. Must be done early in the day. Much avalanche danger at the end of the day. (Time with 20 kg about 9 hours from BC->C1). At the top of scree slope is a col from where a traverse/gentle climb is made to the plateau. Either of two routes can be used: 
  (a) around the bottom of the ridge which involves one "difficult" section on 
      which the Japanese fixed ropes, or 
  (b) over a snowy part of the ridge which is straightforward but hard work.

  2) C1 - windscoop beside rocks about 100 ft above the plateau.

  3) C1 - summit->C1 14 or 15 hours. Up a steep snow gully (30-45 degree) then onto hard ice about 200m from the top, 7 pitches of 45-60 degree ice, long run outs.


expid: GAN386101
peakid: GAN3
year: 1986
route1: S Face of Ganesh IV-W Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Park Jong-Tae
sponsor: 1986 Sogang Alpine Ganesh Himal III Expedition
bcdate: 1986-04-09
smtdate: 1986-05-10
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to bad weather, series of accidents
othersmts: Route traversed Ganesh IV
agency: Adventure Nepal
campsites:
  BC(09/04,4100m),ABC(12/04),C1(30/04,4900m),TempC2(30/04,5200m),C2(03/05,5500m),TempC3A(07/05,5700m),TempC3B(07/05,6000m),C3(08/05,6300m),Biv(09/05,6500m),xxx(10/05,6600m)

routememo:
  This mountain previously known as Ganesh II until re-surveyed in early 1990's.  

  C3 was on E Ridge of Ganesh IV/W Ridge of Ganesh III. Immediately above was very sharp ridge with many big cornices, had to frontpoint while traversing this difficult section. Beyond that very dangerous rock and this problem combined with strong wind on 9th and 10th May defeated summit bid by 2 members who were still 2 km from their summit at their highest point. No technical problems beyond but summit too far away. In their descent they were exhausted but no support because support team had accident (Sherpa broke leg) and they jettisoned everything including food and tent for Choi and Park Chung-Sang in their effort to get Sherpa down. Took Choi and Park 4 days to BC with no food, no C2, no support.

  Lee Tae-Yul's shoulder injured when serac avalanche broke tents and struck him, putting him out of action; Kim Chul-Han's arm injured by falling ice block and he also out of action; Ang Tshering's leg broken. Park Chung-Sang slightly hurt leg in 10 m fall but kept climbing although Choi now led their climb.

  9th April to 14 May only 4 clear days, all others cloudy (could not see route) and much snow.

accidents:
  Lee Tae-Yul's shoulder injured when serac avalanche broke tents & struck him (put out of action); Kim Chul-Han arm injured by falling ice block (put out of action); Ang Tshering leg broken; Park Chung-Sang slightly hurt leg in 10m fall


expid: DHA186102
peakid: DHA1
year: 1986
route1: NE Ridge from E of N Col
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Stane Belak
sponsor: Slovene Dhaulagiri Expedition
bcdate: 1986-04-18
smtdate: 1986-05-09
termdate: 1986-05-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7650m due to snow and icefall conditions (too much for 2-man alpine ascent)
campsites: BC(18/04,4100m),C1(27/04,5850m),C2(08/05,7300m),xxx(09/05,7650m)
accidents: None
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC at same place as last autumn for East Face climb
  C1 at snow hole on plateau (same as last autumn)
  C2 one tent on NE Ridge, which had joined at 6500m
  High point at NE Ridge.

  Not a single day without clouds from 7 or 8 am and snow in late morning. Climbed mostly at night after first week. When arrived BC there was 2m deep snow at BC. 2 May from C1 to 7000m in acclimatization climb towards normal route and back to C1. 8 May started summit push and 9 May reached same high point as last year and little higher, then down because of slab avalanche danger and down to BC on 10 May. 

  15 May again up and 18 May to 7300m tent in very strong wind. 20 May down because snowfall and gas gone. 23 May all way down to BC through dangerous icefall (Kregar tummy trouble). Again more snowfall, both very tired and decided to leave Nepal 8 June.

  Did not attempt E Face because they wanted finally to get to summit somehow, anyhow.


expid: TILI86101
peakid: TILI
year: 1986
nation: W Germany
leaders: Hans Huhn
sponsor: Ravenaburg Tilicho Expedition
approach: Mesokanto La
bcdate: 1986-04-02
smtdate: 1986-04-04
termdate: 1986-04-04
termnote: Abandoned on 4 Apr because of fatal accident
campsites: TempBC(02/04),xxx(04/04,5000m)
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  Did no actual climbing. Fatal accident occurred during approach march on west side of Mesokantu La. Had left KTM 25th March and left Pokhara 26th March. 2 April made camp at 3800m. 3 April snowfall kept camp at same place but did some recce. 4th April planned to reach La, dump baggage and returned to camp; made deposit at 5000m (100m below/before pass) by 15 members. As returning to camp by 15 members, 10 members were caught by huge snow avalanche and carried down. 3 left on top when movement stopped and 7 members covered by snow. Wannenmacher freed himself immediately, 4 found quickly (3-5 mins) and heads freed, while Ebert and Springmann were found only after 10 minutes and gave no sign of life. Were buried next day at accident site. 

  Decided not to cross pass for climb partly for fear of more avalanching, so went back to Jomsom and up to Muktinath, crossed through La and trekked through Manang.

accidents:
  2 members killed in snow avalance on west side of Mesokantu La on approach march; expedition abandoned


expid: BHRI86101
peakid: BHRI
year: 1986
route1: W Face/Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Claude Jaccoux
sponsor: French-Nepalese Bhrikuti Expedition
bcdate: 1986-04-22
smtdate: 1986-04-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6250m due to lack of time in tightly scheduled program
campsites: BC(22/04,4450m),C1(23/04,5400m),C2(27/04,5950m),xxx(30/04,6250m)
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 4450m northwest of mountain (came there from Tange eastwards)
  C1 southeast from BC in the valley (same place as Japanese C1)
  C2 south of C1 still in the valley on glacier
  High point beyond pass on West Face.

  30 April made attempt. 29 April reached pass leading to go another valley. Pass 6250m and reasonable place for a C2 or C3. Returned to C2 and on 30th April tried to go to top but too long: were about 1 hr from top and was possible to reach. However 2 people roped together fell and other 2 on other rope had to rescue them from crevasse and now was 5 pm and had been away from C2 12 hrs. Now too tired and it was too late to go on up, thus ended climb because no time left. Were on steep (55 degrees) snow and ice face. Always fresh snow and wind obliterating tracks.

  Ferrand fell into crevasse 30 April; was belayed by other member but was hanging in crevasse and belayer could not move but no injury; rescue consumed too much time to continue to summit.


expid: DHA186101
peakid: DHA1
year: 1986
route1: NE Ridge
nation: W Germany
leaders: Guenther Haerter
sponsor: DAV Summit Club Expedition
ascent1: 30th,31st
countries: Austria
approach: Pokhara->Myagdi Khola
bcdate: 1986-04-05
smtdate: 1986-05-03
smttime: 1200
termdate: 1986-05-05
campsites: BC(05/04,4650m),C1(10/04,5700m),C2(20/04,6600m),C3(22/04,7150m),C4(03/05,7500m),Smt(03,05/05)
accidents: Welsh had stomach ulcer problem at BC (evacuated Apr 28)
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 100m below North Col
  C2 at beginning of steep rock ridge
  C3 on ridge
  C4 on ridge (end of ridge).

  1st team started from C3 to top on 3 May with stove, etc., deposited at 7500m; went to top Hirtreiter and Haerter and slept at 7500m. 2 others [Schauer, Dehn, Ang Phurba] in this team turned back at 50m below top (were 1 hour behind summiters) because violent thunderstorm. 

  On 5th 3 others went to top from C4. Had tried to mount summit attempt 22 April but bad weather (snow and wind) deposited this bid and all descended to BC

  Welsh had stomach ulcer problem at BC and was evacuated 28 April.


expid: DHA286101
peakid: DHA2
year: 1986
route1: S Face-E Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Don-Yong
sponsor: 1986 Korean Dhaulagiri II Expedition
ascent1: 10th
bcdate: 1986-04-10
smtdate: 1986-05-12
smttime: 1530
achievment: 1st Korean ascent
agency: Adventure Nepal
campsites:
  BC(10/04,3500m),ABC(16/04,4800m),C1(19/04,5400m),C2(21/04,6000m),C3A(27/04,6500m),C3B(01/05,7000m),C4(04/05,7200m),Smt(12/05)

routememo:
  BC  at 3500m towards start of Myagdi Khola SE of point 5981m and east of ridge
  ABC at 4800m Tsaurabong Glacier west of ridge
  C2  at 6000m South Face
  C3A at 6500m South Face
  C3B at 7000m at East Ridge
  C4 near East Ridge.

  Moved C3 5000m up because 1st site too far from summit. Made C4 at 7200m on 4th May but now avalanche broke tent that night and 2 occupants to C3 and on 5th repaired fixed ropes. On 12th May 3 summiters made push to top from C3 at 4:30 am and reached summit at 3:30-4:00 pm (on 11th May Kim had started for top but not in good condition and returned to C3). When on top on 12th weather bad; wind and snow and hail. 3 men descended. 30 minutes lapse between 1st and 3rd - Kim, in middle, disappeared. E Ridge very steep and north side sheer drop. Ang Dorje say this rock ridge was difficult section with steep ice just above C3.

  Kim Sung-Gyu disappeared during descent from summit. Sherpas did not see what happened (snow falling greatly limited visability). He simply did not turn up at C3. This only casualty. Ang Dorje thinks Kim fell just above C3 about 7:30 pm.

accidents:
  Kim Sung-Kyu disappeared during descent from summit, Sherpa did not see what happened; he did not return to C3 (Ang Dorje thinks Kim fell just above C3 at 7:30 pm)


expid: TAWO85401
peakid: TAWO
year: 1985
route1: SE Face-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Oh In-Hwan
sponsor: Korean-Japanese Joint Expedition 1985-86 Winter to Tawoche
ascent1: 5th
countries: S Korea
bcdate: 1985-12-28
smtdate: 1986-01-12
campsites: BC(28/12,4200m),ABC(31/12,5200m),C1(11/01,6000m),Smt(12/01)
accidents: One Japanese climber Kakomoto killed in fall; none amongst Koreans
routememo:
  BC  at Pheriche
  ABC at point 5160m and 5140m southeast of Tawoche Glacier on SE Face.

  Koreans late arriving KTM and then bad weather prevented flights to Khumbu; arrived BC Jan 3 days after Japanese members had started climb. 5 Jan Japanese had fatal accident and stopped their climbing. 

  Koreans resumed climb, went to BC 10 Jan. ABC occupied by Hee, Kim and Lee plus Ang Phurba. C1 only Heo and Ang Phurba, who went up small SE Face to SE Ridge and up final very steep rock. Fixed 600m rope as they climbed above point where Japanese members fixed rope ended to top: total 1600m fixed rope on most of entire route from ABC. Very difficult rock climbing, Heo and Ang Phurba say.

  No accidents amongst Koreans as per Japanese party report of 14 Jan (Ohnishi).

  4 Jan to 5600m below ridge. 5 Jan biv 5800m by H. Nakamura, Irisawa and Morizane. This highest point reached by Japanese members. Heo went later to mountain to try solo ascent but difficult route.

  Korean members arrived Nepal late, were not all members he had met, did not bring equipment and mountain food (used gear brought by Ohnishi).

  Kakomoto fell from point 10m below SE Ridge where steep ice met very soft snow. Fell 800m down steep section. Morizane rope burn on left hand.


expid: EVER85201
peakid: EVER
year: 1985
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Conrad Blanch
ascent1: 71st
bcdate: 1985-07-02
smtdate: 1985-08-28
smttime: 1820
campsites: BC(02/07,5150m),ABC(08-09/07,6500m),C4(31/07,7100m),C5(06/08,7750m),C6(11/08,8450m),Smt(28/08)
routememo:
  BC at Rongbuk Glacier
  C3 below North Col on West Face of Changtse
  C4 below North col
  C5 on NE Ridge
  C6 on NE Ridge below steps.

  12 Aug summit attempt by 3 Nepalese members, Jordi Canals and Jordi Camprubi. Reached about 8600m at beginning of 2nd Step but turned back in snowfall and were tired, down to C3. Another party got no higher than C5 when bad weather (snow) and altitude turned them back. All down to BC. 

  22 Aug started up again and reached C3. 25 Aug to C4, 26 Aug to C5 and 27 Aug to C6 and 28 Aug to top by 3 Nepalese, Carles Valles, Antoni Sors, Oscar Cadiach with support team to C5 and these supporters and Nawang Yonden to C6. Coming down 4 summiters C6 after 12 hours from C6. No further attempt because too much snow.

  Sors toes frostbitten badly. Ang Karma fell 70-80m near 2nd Step but not really hurt 12 Aug. Valles bad altitude sickness from summit (needed oxygen at ABC) and used discarded 1/2 bottle during descent to ABC.

  Valles in KTM 16 Oct 1990 said 3 Spanish summiters did not use oxygen at all.

  14 Spanish members but 1 was only BC Mgr after getting sick at ABC. Leader was Conrad Blanch. Ernic Lucas left early to return to his work before climbing finished.


  Tamaya, Spain (Italian Makalu expedition) - 15 Aug 85

  Catalans reached 8000m in early Aug turned back by bad weather, lot of snow hope to go up again route, he doesn't know.

accidents:
  Member's toes frostbitten badly; Ang Karma fell 70-80m near 2nd Step but not really hurt; Valles bad altitude sickness from summit (used oxygen half bottle during descent to ABC)


expid: EVER85103
peakid: EVER
year: 1985
route1: NE Ridge (UK 1982 Spring rte)
nation: UK
leaders: Malcolm Duff
countries: Austria, Switzerland
approach: Lhasa->Rongbuk Glacier
bcdate: 1985-03-20
smtdate: 1985-05-21
termdate: 1985-05-27
accidents: None
termnote:
  Abandoned at 8170m due to all exhausted, snowfall had required all off mountain and none had strength to go back up

campsites:
  BC(20/03,5300m),ABC(6400m),C1(08/04,6800m),C2(10/04,7090m),C3(05/05,7470m),C4(08/05,7850m),xxx(27/05,8170m)

routememo:
  BC at 5300m at glacier
  C1 at 6800m Bonington's 1st snow hole
  C2 at 7090m new snow hole on ridge
  C3 at 2 tents 
  C4 at snow hole very close site of Bonington's 3rd cave
  High point at 8170m top of 1st.

  Had fixed route on 2 buttresses above C3 before making this camp, trying to skip this camp. Lot of snow from 28 April with few inches of snow every night there after.

  Also went to North Col for filming and to prepare route of descent. Helped Basques from fatal accident.

  Duff and two others at ABC, all in good health and strength, saw ghost for about one hour as he climbed from about 7150m to near this expedition's C3 where he disappeared behind in cluster of rocks. Assumed it was Sandy Allan at the time but later learned he was sick. Could only have been from this expedition but none that high in that area that day - was wearing red suit, a big man going very strongly - was size and strength of Peter Boardman who wore red windsuit when he disappeared in 1982 and Duff felt it was "Peter." A videotape being run again, says Duff. Peter's wife Hilary certain it was Peter and said she'd have to go and tell him to come home now.


expid: KANG84401
peakid: KANG
year: 1984
route1: N Face (Japanese 1980 rte)
nation: USA
leaders: Chris Chandler
sponsor: Kanchenjunga N Face Winter Expedition
countries: Australia
approach: Dharan->Hille->Taplejung->Ghunsa->Pangpema
bcdate: 1984-11-29
smtdate: 1985-01-14
termdate: 1985-01-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7925m due to Chandler's illness and death
accidents: Chandler died of cerebral edema; Bremer-Kamp and Tamang serious frostbite of fingers and toes
achievment: 1st American and Australian attempt on any 8000er in Winter
campsites:
  BC(28/11,5120m),C1(04/12,5790m),C2(10/12,6250m),C3(31/12,7010m),Biv(12/01,7250m),C4(13/01,7315m),Biv(14/01,7925m),xxx(14/01,7925m)

routememo:
  BC at Pangpema
  C1 at same site as Czech's C1 (near boulders on far left side below 1st icefield)
  C2 in basin towards top from icefall
  C3 at Czech's C3 (2nd icefield)
  Biv at halfway up rock band
  C4 at top of rock band.

  Stayed away from ridge: jet stream used to roar off that ridge. Would have liked to go to it from technical point of view. Used just two 250-foot ropes in all the climb for fixing route.

  Whole mountain was glistering in ice, rock hard. Very highest snowfall but fierce winds which stopped progress in 2nd half of Dec.

  Chandler died of cerebral edema. Bremer-Kamp and Tamang serious frostbite of fingers and toes: Tamang should not have been taken so high and Bremer-Kamp's frostbite due to job of getting him down alive (she was taken because he was eager to go up and it was useful having another load carrier).


  David Peterson

  Bremer-Kamp had frostbite, will lose at least all fingers and parts of toes. She in hospital here, she ultimately requires surgery.

  We were all set for the summit "it was a gorgeous day." 15th Chris didn't show any signs of call see. We came up from 24,000 ft camp and we carried rather late night before. At 6:00 made biv in cave at about 26,000. Was a horrible night - "always is at that altitude." Chris was melting all water and thus getting less oxygen than others. Next 8:00 am late start: Chris sitting, not putting on crampons, being real slow inside cave. Stove was on but not burning. Lethargic - felt better outside and said would feel better if he just lay down. She sat besides him for a while in cave and then needed go out; then started getting white splotches on nose and Chris said better go down.

  Chris said its such good weather we could go for the summit. This was summit day. Chris: "I can't see I'm going blind" and Cherie losing peripheral vision herself. Cherie and Mangal tried to get him up and he couldn't walk. By time got his crampons and roped up it was 1:00 pm. We fell in bringing him down on his feet. Chris wrapped [?] himself several times. Got down about 1000 ft at about 5:30 pm and settled down for night in sleeping bag on 3 platforms in snow and Mangal to brew water for Chris, tried with ice-axe belay but slipped down slope a little. Got him back up but got restless, rolling over and standing up on 35 degree slope and would have have slid all the way. Chris said I need help and had his hand outside the bag and he stopped moving and thrashing about; "used his lost little bit of energy."

  He wasn't breathing, died about 8 that night. Cheri's feet frozen several days before but ignored; hands froze in rescue. Mangal's hand became bad the night of 15th. As with Cherie, using bare hands next day to set Chris's body sitting up in a hole so he could see view, his pack beside him. Then left at about 8:00 am and moved very slowly down. Mangal wanted to die and kept sitting down, critically dehydrated and Cherie hallucinating coming down glacier on 19th.

  Could have gone to top on 15th. Next 4 days weather was so good - we were so weak, just like kittens. "Not allowed us to live - it just chose to take Chris." "The cerebral edema took me by surprise though I knew risks of such small party." Took Mangal high in order to help got supplies up high and he keen to go high.

  Would go back to him? If I could go back with Chris I would - next year. 


  Shrestha, Tourism - 26 Jan 85

  Chris Chandler, Cherie Louise Bremer-Kamp and Sirdar Mangal Singh Tamang resumed climb on 7 Jan. After reaching 7925m on 15 Jan at 13:00 hours, Chandler suddenly got brain swelling and they had to descend. While Chandler brought down by others he died at about 25,000 ft. Other 2 got frostbite on hands and legs. Left body where he died and return BC 19 Jan at 22:00 hours.


expid: JANU84401
peakid: JANU
year: 1984
route1: S Face Spur-S Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Ki-Heyg
sponsor: 1984-85 Korean Winter Jannu Expedition
ascent1: 14th
bcdate: 1984-11-24
smtdate: 1984-12-09
smttime: 1440
campsites: BC(24/11,4850m),C1(01/12,5450m),C2(04/12,6050m),C3(06/12,6500m),C4(07/12,7150m),Smt(09/12)
accidents: Shin got frostbitten fingers on summit attempt day (may not lose any part of fingers)
achievment: 1st Korean ascent; 1st winter ascent
routememo:
  8th Dec Park Sung-Man, Shin and Song and 2 Sherpas try from C4 for top but very strong wind and reached 7500m. 9 Dec leader and same 2 Sherpas from C4 at 6:10 am and on top 2:40 pm; again strong wind and left 2:55 pm to C4 6:20 pm. Did not follow planned route above C1 because 3 big snow avalanches and no snow: all rock and hard ice, so moved eastwards up easy rock spur (Eperm des Jeunes) to snow face. C2 to C3 knife ridge but easy. 1400m fixed rope all route.

  No accidents, except Shin got frostbitten fingers on summit-attempt day (may not lose any part of finger).

  All members to C4.


expid: AMAD84401
peakid: AMAD
year: 1984
route1: N Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Tsutomu Dobashi
sponsor: GHM Ama Dablam N Ridge Expedition
bcdate: 1984-11-24
smtdate: 1984-12-17
termdate: 1984-12-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to lack of food supplies and ran out of strength
campsites: BC(24/11,5000m),C1(05/12,6000m),C2(16/12,6450m),xxx(17/12,6600m)
accidents: None
achievment: 1st winter attempt on North Ridge; 1st Japanese winter attempt
routememo:
  Needed fixed rope to 6700m for descent but had not enough rope. 17 Dec Dobashi, Okada and Yoshida in alpine-style attempt reached about 6600m but too far from there to summit for that day and gave up climb. 3 men had made route from C1 and now very tired, very windy and food supplies running out since had planned summit for 14-15 Dec. 18 Dec route to C1 and 19 Dec to BC. Would have taken 3 whole days to go to C2 to top to C2. Snow conditions very bad, like sugar. C1 to C2 snow mushrooms, BC to C1 easy. Saito went to C2 once while Uchiyama and Kawaguchi to C1 only.

  1 member went to C2 once while 2 members to C1 only.


expid: CHOY84401
peakid: CHOY
year: 1984
route1: SE Pillar
nation: Poland
leaders: Andrzej Zawada
sponsor: International Winter Cho Oyu Expedition 1984-85
ascent1: 10th,11th
countries: Canada
approach: Lukla->Gokyo Valley
bcdate: 1984-12-30
smtdate: 1985-02-12
smttime: 1430
termdate: 1985-02-18
campsites:
  BC(30/12,5200m),C1(08/01,5400m),C2(13/01,5700m),C3(29/01,6600m),C4(08/02,7200m),C5(11/02,7500m),Smt(12,15/02)

routememo:
  Most difficult part of route was 1st 1000m of ridge. All afraid of rock fall. Were only two teams working high on route: four members and too much for them to carry up equipment for so many camps. So C3 tent moved up as C5, so when 2nd summit team went up, technical difficulty made them unable get to C5 and they had to biv. Plus 2nd team acclimatizations differed: 1 member from Dhaulagiri I top but 1 member only 2 nights in C3. Rested C5 one day and 15th to top. Descending Kukuczka fell 4m and decided to biv at 7300m and not take chance in dark. Biv very hard so spent 16th in C5 and 17th in C3. E Face very dangerous from many avalanches; S Ridge is very difficult.


  Kukuczka:

  Arrived Dhaulagiri I ABC, summited
  Left Dhaulagiri I BC 25 Jan
  Arrived KTM          2 Feb
  Flew to Lukla        8 Feb
  Arrived Cho Oyu BC   9 Feb
  Summited Cho Oyu and bived

  Scaled his 7th 8000er, Dhaulagiri, 21 Jan 1988. If successful on Cho Oyu, will be first climber to conquer 2nd 8000er in Nepal in such short period of time after his 1st and first to do so anywhere in winter.


  Tourism - 16 Feb 85

  Kukuczka and Heinrich contacted BC at 2:00 pm and said they reached top yesterday very late so bived at 7920m last night. Today at 11:00 am reached C5 and will stay there tonight. Tomorrow to BC stayed on top 20 minutes, hoisted flags of Poland, Nepal and Germany and took many photos. At sunset had many beautiful sights. Weather cold (-25 degrees C) and strong wind. Kukuczka slight frostbite in fingers.

  All leave BC 18th.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 16 Feb 85

  Kukuczka and Heinrich summited on 15 Feb at 5:30 pm and contacted by walkie-talkie to BC on top. Very cold, strong wind; took photos; will contact again from C5 they said.

  At 8:00 am today they were spotted 100m above C6 descending and BC awaiting contact yesterday biv between C6 and top. Today sunny at BC, -4 degrees C there. Summit party took long to top because of mist.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 15 Feb 85

  Last contact 1:30 pm when 150m below summit, left C5 7:00 am for summit.


  Banskota - 14 Feb 85

  Berbek and Pawlikowski one coming to BC today. Were in C2 last night. Kukuczka and Heinrich bived at 7550m last night near darkness. Arrive C5 at 10:00 am today, summit bid tomorrow.


  Banskota - 12 Feb 85

  Yesterday C5 7600m SE Face at 5:30 pm by Berbeka and Pawlikowski. Two started towards summit 6:00 today and reached 200m below top by 11:00 am. Kukuczka and Heinrich C3 to C4 today.

accidents:
  Heinrich hit by falling rock on leg and out of action 8 days; Kukuczka some frostbite of 2 toes but expects them to heal in time; Dmoch left expedition one day after arrival at BC because of heart problem


expid: KGUR84401
peakid: KGUR
year: 1984
route1: W Face-NW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Michael Chapman
sponsor: Anglo-Australian Kang Guru Expedition
countries: UK
bcdate: 1984-11-25
smtdate: 1984-12-09
termdate: 1984-12-16
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to winds
campsites: BC(25/11,3660m),C1(03/12,5350m),C2(06/12,6050m),C3(07/12,6250m),xxx(09/12,6900m)
accidents: None as of Dec 11, nor as per sirdar's report after BC evacuated
routememo:
  BC at Meta
  C2 on big rock buttress on West Face
  C2 on face
  C3 on face near West Ridge
  High point on West Ridge.

  8 Dec very windy and couldn't move. 9 Dec summit bid by all 3 members and Maila Pemba and reached 6900m when 80-90 mph wind stopped them (Rheinberger and Maila Pemba). Chapman and Martin turned back at 6500m. All to C1 on 10 Dec to stock up on food and wait for good weather while Chapman left expedition on 11th for work.

  25 Dec - Chapman told by sirdar another summit bid made in mid-Dec stopped by snowfall and wind on 14/15 Dec and did not get above C3. 


  Rheinberger - 3 Jan 1985

  12th Maila Pemba returned to C1 where Rheinberger and Martin had remained.

  13th all 3 to C3 where winds so strong had to make snow cave as next made to protect tent was not enough. 14th all 3 set out from C4, but after getting to about 500 ft above camp, temperature lower and wind still strong. Gave up and went to BC in up to 3 ft of unconsolidated snow; got down well after dark.

  15th packed up because porters arranged for 16th to evacuate mountain.

  Mountain itself technically "dead easy." Couple of dangerous spots including couloir of 2000 ft of 35-40 degree which fills with snow and vulnerable to rock fall from sides. Crevasses above C3 required rope and wind was problem.

  2-3km long summit ridge from point it is gained. 


  Mick Chapman - 25 Dec 1984

  Rheinberger and Chapman to C1 10 Dec. Chapman and sirdar to BC. 11th Dec sirdar rejoined 2 at C1, he was reported to Chapman on his return to KTM.
  13th Dec to C2
  14th Dec to C3
  Snowfall and wind stopped further progress
  15 dec to BC
  16 Dec left BC. 

  All well, no illness or accidents. Arrive KTM about 1-2 Jan via Thorung Pass and Annapurna Sanctuary. Leave Nepal 5-6 Jan.


expid: KHAT84401
peakid: KHAT
year: 1984
route1: NW Face
nation: Australia
leaders: John Lamb
sponsor: Australian Khatang Winter Expedition
bcdate: 1984-12-13
smtdate: 1984-12-27
termdate: 1984-12-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to lack of food supplies and fuel
campsites: BC(13/12,4800m),C1(20/12,5050m),C2(21/12,5300m),C3(25/12,5900m),xxx(27/12,6100m)
accidents: None
agency: Ama Dablam Trekking
routememo:
  BC southeast side of Tsho Og, 200m southeast of Japan 82 autumn BC
  C1 start of climb, base of North Face (or NW Face)
  C2 on face
  C3 on face
  High point on face.

  BC abandoned on 18 Dec because struck by 130-kph wind and destroyed climb which was semi-alpine-style. 10 days of no snow but high winds, spindthrift and little rockfall. Real hazard was rock falling. Hit moraine approaching face. Maximum temperature at C3 was -20 degrees. Technically not an easy climb on steep face of ice or unconsolidated snow 1-1/2 ft on rock. Problem to find camp sites (didn't have equipment for hanging camps). NE Ridge looked beyond their capabilities on its jagged rock cornices and gendarmes. Descended to a new BC at 3950m on 29 Dec (at Lundung Kharka).


  Banskota, Tourism - 31 Dec 1984

  BC 13 Dec 4820m due strong wind BC moved down to Lumding Kharki 4000m 17 Dec
  C1 20 Dec
  C2 21 Dec 5350m
  C3 25 Dec 5900m

  Because of technical nature of climbing making it time-consuming, food and fuel supplies exhausted (had only 7 days supply). Abandoned 27 Dec after reaching 6050m by both members. In BC 29 Dec and left 30 Dec for trek.

  -20 degrees daily temperature with gusting winds 130 km/hr and spindtrift avalanche regular occurrence.


expid: NEMJ84401
peakid: NEMJ
year: 1984
route1: E Ridge from S
nation: Japan
leaders: Iwao Maeda
sponsor: Den Den Kyushu Alpine Club Himlung Himal Expedition 1984
bcdate: 1984-11-24
smtdate: 1984-12-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to huge crevasse area
campsites: BC(24/11,4200m),C1(30/11,5050m),C2(07/12,5750m),C3(16/12,6200m),xxx(20/12,6300m)
accidents: Stonefall stopped Pemba and Shigemori 5 days (this was all)
routememo:
  Expeditions to Himlung prior to 1992 were probably climbing Nemjung.

  Stopped by 100m crevasse 1 km long. Many crevasses in this area not possible to cross over or go round, so climb finished. Also stones in C2 area which hit Shigemori and Pemba Sherpa. Autumn season better time for this route; maybe not possible this route in winter. In winter would take 10 days go around crevasse area if at all: would mean long route around east end onto knife ridge above crevasse area. Had strong winds and snowfall as per Tourism Ministry report of 24 Dec 84. Expedition in 3 parties and planned 1st party to leave early, as Ikeda and Yamashita did.


expid: ANN184403
peakid: ANN1
year: 1984
route1: N Face (Dutch Rib)
nation: S Korea
leaders: Ahn Chang-Yeul
sponsor: 1984-85 Korean Annapurna I Winter Expedition
ascent1: 13th disputed
bcdate: 1984-11-22
smtdate: 1984-12-07
termnote: Success disputed by French leader and climbing Sherpa
othersmts: Climbed Middle Summit of Annapurna I (ANNM-844-01) instead
accidents: Miss Kim's Face wounded by strong wind; 2 Sherpas slightly hurt by avalanche
achievment: 1st Korean and Nepal ascent; 1st winter ascent; Miss Kim 1st woman to 8000m summit
campsites:
  BC(22/11,4300m),BC2(27/11,4800m),C1(28/11,5600m),C2(02/12,6500m),C3(04/12,7100m),C4(06/12,7600m),Middle-Smt(07/12)

routememo:
  Koreans claim one Korean woman and four Sherpas summitted Annapurna I Main Summit, which is disputed by French team. Apparently they climbed the Middle Summit instead (see ANNM-844-01).

  The leader of the French team, Bernard Muller, said that they saw the Korean summit team of one Korean woman and four Sherpas too far from the summit to have reached it at the time claimed. The Sherpas with the French were told by the Koreans' Sherpas that no one got to the top.

  Dutch Rib and sickle were most difficult section of route: blue ice and much of route above C2 difficult with no snow, all ice, says Miss Kim. Ahn says they moved up quickly because same route as in 1983 autumn and same Sherpas on this route several times. Also weather good and autumn 1983 crevasse now not so big. C1 to C2 very easy. Only Miss Kim slept in C3, 3 other members carried loads here and slept in C2. From C3 to C4 again 3 other (excluding Ahn) only carried loads and return to C2. 

  Planned 2nd summit bid by Park and 2 Sherpas but when Pasang Norbu and Keepa died, cancelled 2nd bid. Both fell from altitude 7800m at about 4:30 pm when Keepa not well balanced on hard ice was blown off balance by very strong wind, pulling Pasang Norbu with him and fell 700m. Could see bodies but not reach because very tired and bad wind which continued next days.

  Miss Kim's face wounded by strong wind blowing ice after she took oxygen mask off when oxygen finished at summit. 2 Sherpas slightly hurt by avalanche.

  2 members and 7 Sherpas baggage by helicopter to Jomsom late 17 Nov and other plans to go to Jomsom 24 Nov. Helicopter carried loads to BC 2 after arrival but no one slept BC I before 27 Nov and no loads carried to C1 before 27 Nov.


  Kim Young-Hwan - 21 Oct 85

  HMG gave permission to Miss Kim to climb 6000m peak in Khumbu in 1985-6 winter but Korean Alpine Federation did not give their permission because of her apparent false claim to success on Annapurna I in 1984-5 winter.


  Ang Temba - 12 March 85

  Ang Temba (now going on Japanese expedition to Gurja-Dhaulagiri VI-Churen) was summiter on last winter's Korean Annapurna I expedition. They climbed to Middle Summit, which leader Ahn said was the highest summit. They could see another very close to them to the west and a third one to the east not so close. Ang Temba carried Miss Kim's oxygen bottles, she carried nothing. Sherpas used no oxygen; Miss Kim "not so strong."

  Ang Temba again agreed with a sketch profile had summit middle peak. 


  Bernard Muller, French Annapurna I leader - 27 Dec 84

  Koreans: Saw them below summit at nearly time they said they on top. French Sherpas said Koreans not at top. Made summit photo at BC that was seen by French members there at BC. After success Muller and De la Ferriere saw them take 8 hours from C4 to highest point seen and 2 were hours at last from this point about 8000m to main summit. C4 was below middle summit. Muller wonders whether actually possible climb final route they said.

  Koreans arrived BC about 18 or 19 Nov when French arrived C1 they had C3 established and before 1 Dec had climbed icefall below C4 and made C4 28 or 29 Nov. This is not a winter ascent.


  South Korean Annapurna I expedition - Winter 1984:

  Members Ahn and Miss Kim Young-Ja said on 17 Dec 84, after their team had returned to Kathmandu, that Miss Kim and four Sherpas had reached the summit on 7 Dec. (Two of these Sherpas fell to their deaths during descent.)

  A surviving Sherpa, Ang Temba agreed on 12 March 85 and again on 30 May 00 that they had gone to the middle summit. (He agreed both times with a sketch profile of the summit ridge that it was the middle one way they had climbed). He said in 1985 that from their summit they could see a summit very near them to the west and another not so close to the east. The leader had told that the middle summit was the highest, so they went to it and then descended.

  The leader of a French expedition also on the north side, Bernard Muller, said in December 1984 that they were not convinced that the Koreans team had actually reached the summit. The French saw the Korean summit party through binoculars on 7 Dec at a spot below and well to the east of the main summit quite near the time the Koreans later reported their summit party had been to the top. The Koreans had taken eight hours from their camp four to this point, and the French estimated that it would have taken the summit party at least two more hours to get to the main summit in the very strong winds that were blowing. Some French men who were at base camp after 7 Dec watched the Korean summiter and four Sherpas pose very near base for a "summit photo."


expid: GANG84401
peakid: GANG
year: 1984
route1: N Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Suk-Woo
sponsor: 1984-85 Korean Gangapurna Expedition
bcdate: 1985-01-19
smtdate: 1985-01-31
termdate: 1985-02-01
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to Lee's weakened condition and problems finding route
campsites: BC(19/01,5200m),C1(24/01,5600m),C2(29/01,6160m),xxx(31/01,7100m)
accidents: None
routememo:
  BC at west side of NE Ridge
  C1 very far from BC, southwest of BC
  C2 just below North Face's big well
  High point at North Face.

  Lee climbed to 7100m with his sirdar; they gave up when they could not find a route above that point.

  Approach to BC difficult because snow, hence BC lower altitude than planned. After made C2 had enough climbing gear but not fuel for many days to fix much rope on very steep route. 31st Jan took climbing equipment but no biv equipment and found very difficult to find route in heavily crevassed icefall area. In 10 hrs reached 7100m which think was last of steep difficult part of climb, but late weather closing in so descended to C2 at 8:30 pm. Then gave up climb because Lee at altitude too long and very weak and descended to BC. Weather bad during time on mountain. Wind and snow - everyday had to remake route.


expid: ANN184401
peakid: ANN1
year: 1984
route1: S Face (Bonington rte)
nation: Japan
leaders: Kuniaki Yagihara
sponsor: Japan Gunma Winter Annapurna I Expedition 1984-85
bcdate: 1984-11-18
smtdate: 1984-12-29
termdate: 1985-01-19
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to deep snow and weak manpower
campsites:
  BC(18/11,4200m),C1(01/12,4950m),C2(05/12,5850m),C3A(09/12,6460m),C3B(19/12,6500m),C4(24/12,6950m),xxx(29/12,7200m)

routememo:
  BC  at same site as autumn 1984 Swiss on grass field (below Bonington BC)
  C3A at Bonington site (not good site).

  Bad weather with much snowfall (but not wind) stopped ascent. All down to BC 3 Jan to wait for better weather.

  9 days in BC and again climbed 13 Jan and reached 6700m on 18 Jan trying to get to C4 but afraid of snow avalanche and returned to C3 and stayed there. But 5 Sherpas now out of action so not very well. 19 Jan deep snowfall and that finished climb.

  Not difficult route but some avalanche danger and requires strong team.

accidents:
  Yamada at 7150m hit above knee by falling rock; Jan 17 two Sherpas hit by ice blocks on back and legs and one Sherpa fell but uninjured; 1 Sherpa fell into crevasse; 1 Sherpa frostbite in fingers


expid: ANN184402
peakid: ANN1
year: 1984
route1: N Face (French 1950 rte)
nation: France
leaders: Bernard Muller
sponsor: French Expedition to Annapurna I
bcdate: 1984-11-27
smtdate: 1984-12-02
termdate: 1984-12-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to wind and falling seracs
campsites: BC(27/11,4350m),C1(01/12,5100m),C2(02/12,6000m),xxx(02/12,6000m)
routememo:
  BC at usual site
  High point at C2.

  Muller and De la Ferriere were to go up from C2 in summit attempt on day Koreans had fatal accident, so helped Koreans.

  Cloudy weather set in and very strong winds and morale not right then too had too many people at BC with distractions of film-making and illness; besides had just done Yalung Kang and difficult to do the big mtns so close together. 

  Furthermore there was no snow but bare ice which difficult for 2 persons alpine-style climb. Besides enroute to C1 saw French body and at BC memorials to many dead. Plan was for Muller and De la Ferriere be only area above C2 and they returned to C2 11th Dec, but again very strong wind, cloud and some snow night of 11/12th and down to BC 12th Dec.

accidents:
  Serac avalanche came down and its wind collapsed BC tents striking fear in those at BC; Pagny had trouble with heart and debated sending for helicopter (probably not related to altitude or climbing)


expid: ANNS84401
peakid: ANNS
year: 1984
route1: S Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Nobuaki Miyano
sponsor: CITAC Annapurna S Peak Expedition
bcdate: 1984-12-12
smtdate: 1985-01-06
termdate: 1985-01-07
campsites: BC(12/12,4200m),Dep(18/12,4900m),C1(24/12,5350m),C2(03/01,6150m),xxx(06/01,6300m)
accidents: None except Fujiwara fall of 2-3m
termnote:
  Abandoned at 6300m due to route problems, cold wind, loss of member's personal equipment, food shortage

routememo:
  BC just below South Face on Khumrung Khola
  C1 on left side of pillar beyond glacier
  C2 on South Face below hanging glacier
  High point at just below hanging glacier.

  Half of days had bad weather from late morning: snow and wind. Gave up when found hanging glacier below proposed C3 site would require long route needing at least 200m fixed rope which didn't have. On 7 Jan Fujiwara slipped and lost his backpack which fell into crevasse. So that ended climb, but anyway had only 6 days food left.


expid: DHA184401
peakid: DHA1
year: 1984
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Haruyuki Endo
sponsor: Yeti Dojin Dhaulagiri I Expedition
bcdate: 1984-11-24
smtdate: 1984-12-06
termdate: 1984-12-07
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to wind causing Ozaki to lose interest and Matsumoto getting sick
campsites: BC(24/11,4700m),C1(03/12,5700m),xxx(06/12,6700m)
accidents: None except Matsumoto altitude sickness
routememo:
  BC at usual site
  C1 at North Col by 3 Japanese in snowcave
  High point on ridge.

  Ozaki to BC on 4th Dec because very strong wind (completely different from earlier winds - blowing much snow like avalanche - kept filling cave - had to sleep in biv tent), so gave up because too uncomfortable and "I want to watch my son's face" (son was with mother below BC). Since now with new family, summit not such big ambition. Endo and Matsumoto stayed at C1 and on 6th Dec reached C2 site with loads slept at C1 (had spent 4th carrying loads from deposit below C1 and resting 5th). 7th Dec Matsumoto's face showed edema and too dangerous for Endo go up alone. Winter, so expedition finished. Even camp's tent was picked by wind with members in it on 8/9th Dec.


expid: TILI84401
peakid: TILI
year: 1984
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Stephen Adamson
sponsor: Canadian Winter Himalayan Expedition to Tilicho
countries: Denmark
bcdate: 1984-12-26
smtdate: 1984-12-30
termdate: 1985-01-02
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to heavy snowfall
campsites: BC(26/12,5000m),C1(29/12,5370m),xxx(30/12,5800m)
accidents: 2 porters got severe frostbite requiring flight from Jomsom; nothing else
routememo:
  BC southeast of Mesokanto La on moraine
  C1 on small plateau at bottom of NE Ridge
  High point at NE Ridge.

  30th Dec started snowing: 3 ft of snow at C1 that night. 31st Dec 2 members who had came up with 2 other members on 29th, descended to BC while other pair waited for chance at alpine-style summit bid. Durtler and Horne camped between camps that night in storm and on 1 Jan all to BC since too much snow on mountain. 2 Jan high winds kept everyone in tent. 

  Decided would have been at least another week before snow conditions permitted renewed climbing, but had to leave at least by 7 Jan to return home.


expid: DHA184402
peakid: DHA1
year: 1984
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Adam Bilczewski
sponsor: Polish Winter Himalaya Expedition Dhaulagiri 1984-85
ascent1: 27th
bcdate: 1984-12-04
smtdate: 1985-01-21
smttime: 1530
termdate: 1985-01-25
achievment: 1st winter ascent without oxygen
campsites:
  BC(04/12,3700m),BC2(04/12,3600m),ABC(07,11/12,4600m),C1(15/12,5200m),C2(20/12,5900m),C3(12/01,6800m),C4A(13/01,7400m),C4B(20/01,7600m),Smt(21/01)

routememo:
  BC at Tsaurabang, Myagdi Glacier, established at 3700m on 4 Dec, was destroyed by wind from an avalanche off the West Face on the same day and relocated on the same day 100m lower.

  ABC behind big stones in 2nd location
  C1  midway between ABC and NE Col near end of 1st icefall
  C2  at NE Col
  C3  on ridge just below step
  C4 (A) on ridge just left of it on shelf under small serac in cave.

  Porters refused to carry loads beyond Tsaurabang because of fear of avalanches and last pitch beyond Tsaurabang is very difficult for load carrying. 1st ABC destroyed by wind-carried stones and sand and another one placed 200m away (but not up) from it behind stones. Had decided N Face impossible and changed to NE Ridge route; decided on evening of 14th Dec because face very great danger of avalanche (and LO gave no difficulty). 20th Dec to 12th Jan almost fortnight of snowfall. 1st summit attack on 15th by Czok and Kukuczka got to 7800m at 1:00 pm at old camp; went down again because realized this rate of ascent beyond camp as too slow for summit in snowy weather; got to 7900m at 2:30 pm then to C3 on 15th and C2 16th. 2nd summit team 2 members reached C4.

  Czok frostbitten toes beginning with avalanche on 20 Jan which damaged his overboots and became more frostbitten during 21st summit attack - other frostbite cases.

  On 15th-16th Jan in horrible weather, strong hurricane wind and descended to C2 with Machnik having frostbitten fingers. Czok and Kukuczka moved up from C2 to C4 17 Jan. 20 Jan they were hit by snow avalanches, damaging tent. Moved C4 2m higher while Kuras in shock and frostbite from avalanche descended.


  Czok - 8 Feb 1985

  Told to Czok: Back at about 7500m near ridge [body] seen during 1st attack (probably died here). Perhaps Sherpa sirdar from expedition spring 1979; otherwise someone from 1950's. 

  No technical difficulties on climb up. Of 23 days Kukuczka was on mountain 2 days clear which meant strong wind while cloudy days not so much wind but snowfall which was problem because deep and avalanching which lightly buried first C4. 21 Jan cloudy with light wind till on summit ridge when somewhat stronger. Left camp at 7:00 am and on top 3:30 pm: some places deep snow. On descent had to biv because couldn't find route and after wandering in dark so, made cave and waited for light and then no problem to descend. No further summit attempts because 6 frostbite cases. North Face impossible: strong wind and much snow.

  6 members frostbite: Czok's toes black, others no so much frozen (fingers). Avalanches buried C4 but no one hurt.

  Kukuczka arrived at ABC 30 Dec and left it with the team on 25 Jan.

accidents:
  Czok frostbitten toes begining with avalanche on Jan 20 which damaged his overboots; more frostbite during Jan 21 summit bid; other frostbite cases


expid: JANU84301
peakid: JANU
year: 1984
route1: S Ridge (French 1962 rte)
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Martin Fischer
sponsor: Swiss Jannu Expedition
ascent1: 12th,13th
bcdate: 1984-10-08
smtdate: 1984-10-25
campsites: BC(08/10,4400m),Biv1(16/10,5500m),Biv2(18/10,6200m),Biv3(24/10,6900m),Smt(25,27/10)
accidents: Rubin altitude sickness at last bivouac with 1st group; nothing else
achievment: 1st Swiss ascent
routememo:
  BC   near small lake beside Yamatari Glacier
  Biv1 on glacier (unnamed)
  Biv2 at beginning of ridge
  Biv3 on plateau below ridge.

  No fixed camps above Base. After 2nd biv went down to BC for 2-day rest. 1st team from BC on 22 Oct and 2nd team next day to bivs at same sites. Alpine style ascent as no fixed ropes, oxygen, Sherpas or fixed camps, but did climb in two installments since not acclimatized in first push. Most difficult problem was wind. Technical difficulties with gendarme at top section and 100m ice wall across glacier above C1 and section of ridge with steep powder snow.

  Rubin got altitude sickness at last biv with 1st group.


expid: YALU84301
peakid: YALU
year: 1984
route1: S Face direct
nation: Poland
leaders: Tadeusz Karolczak
sponsor: Polish Spain Yalungkang Expedition
ascent1: 7th,10th
countries: Spain
bcdate: 1984-09-07
smtdate: 1984-10-07
campsites: BC(07/09,5200m),C1(14/09,6250m),C2(20/09,6700m),C3(29/09,7450m),C4(06/10,7800m),Smt(07,10/10)
accidents: None
achievment: New route, 1st Poles to summit
routememo:
  BC same as Poles (higher than usual site)
  C3 at foot of couloir.

  All difficult, some really difficult: icefall starting at 7000m and rock from about C3 and C4. Last section so difficult that without fixed ropes had to go down normal route used by German-Austrian expedition in 1975. Both parties descended by 1975 route. Put 2100m fixed rope total.


expid: YALU84302
peakid: YALU
year: 1984
route1: SE Couloir
nation: France
leaders: Bernard Muller
sponsor: Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne (GMHM)
ascent1: 8th,9th,11th
bcdate: 1984-09-14
smtdate: 1984-10-08
termdate: 1984-10-21
campsites: BC(14/09,5200m),C1(18/09,6200m),C2(26/09,7200m),C3(05/10,7800m),Smt(08,10,20/10)
accidents: None
routememo:
  BC same as Poles (higher than usual site)
  C3 at foot of couloir.

  Most difficult part is 50-degrees steep couloir, but no great technical difficulties. Some danger with seracs between BC and C2. Fixed about 200m between C1 and C2.

  Two members left a little early after their summit success.


  Bernard Muller - 12 Nov 84

  Muller believes Baud probably reached summit on 10 Oct before Poles. Previous day's summiter had made excellent track, so he could move quickly, and he was back down before Poles (though he skied part of the way down).


  Ms Gautier De la Ferriere - 4 Nov 84

  Miss Gautier before above 6400m (Glacier Dome in autumn 1983). "Acclimatizing to 8520m? Yes, it was difficult but no more difficulty than the others."

  She was late to top because bad weather after 11th to 17th and she had take antibiotics for tonsilitis early in expedition.

  Muller and she established C3 on 5th but tired and felt not acclimatized enough and then bad weather. Other members called porters for 22nd. Gautier and Muller reached Peak 21st at 6:30-7:00 pm. Psychological pressure on them since same members had already left.

  Now goes to Annapurna I in winter and hopes to try (1988?) for Everest via South Col. Now I like to go to Everest, the top of the world (but "I don't know now" about all 8000ers).


expid: KANG84301
peakid: KANG
year: 1984
route1: SW Face
nation: Canada
leaders: Roger Marshall
sponsor: International Kangchenjunga Expedition
ascent1: 18th
countries: USA
bcdate: 1984-09-14
smtdate: 1984-10-18
smttime: 1930
campsites: BC(14/09,5500m),C1(20/09,6200m),C2(28/09,7100m),C3(10/10,7700m),Smt(18/10)
accidents: Injured leg on fall during descent from summit
routememo:
  BC above Yalung Glacier on rocky greasy knoll
  C1 at top if first icefall (called "the lump")
  C2 on Great Shelf
  C3 on 200 ft below cwm of cycle, a big rock feature between Yalung Kang & Kangch.

  Fixed 200m rope above BC up first icefall in deep snow and then whole route fell off so the used Polish route to left of Beghin route here. Made dump at top of 2nd icefall on 24th Sept, but to acclimatize carried load to C1 for a while until ready to occupy C2 on 28th Sept. Put C3 tent on 5th Oct at 7500m, moved it next day to site he intended for it and then weather getting bad (high clouds and strong winds) and toes and fingertips freezing and back to BC on 12 Oct. Final push to top began night of 15 Oct, reached C3 on 17th in bad snow conditions. Started up on 18th Oct at 5:00 am with very cold toes in cold windy weather. Had to climb difficult rock band using Japanese rope there and at top of this at 4:30 pm where left rucksack as signal for finding route in descent.
    
  Coming down rock tripped, fell head first but somehow hooked arm in Japanese rope and tore cartilage in knee but unware of it. Reached C3 at 9:30 pm hallucinating, no food or drink since explosion of cooker on morning. Kept falling down on 19th descent of 6 hours to C2 "in bad shape." Coudray [who was on Yalung Kang] was in C2 and gave food and water but went on ahead of Marshall to C1 - knee and toes giving trouble.

  Marshall used French fixed ropes to top of 1st icefall but not above. Cindy to C1 one time when Marshall was there.

  "I don't think I'd do something like that again." Interested in soloing to 26,000 ft but not worth the really big effort to go higher. "It was a long climb."


expid: CHOL84301
peakid: CHOL
year: 1984
route1: N Face up; S Ridge down
nation: USA
leaders: Todd Bibler
sponsor: American Cholatse Expedition
ascent1: 4th
approach: BC at Tsholo Og
bcdate: 1984-10-14
smtdate: 1984-11-05
termdate: 1984-11-07
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East (LOBE-843-01)
campsites: BC(14/10,4665m),SeveralBivs,Smt(05/11)
routememo:
  C1 at Tsho Og
  Bivouacked on face moving up approx 1000 ft (300m) per day from 29 Oct.

  N Face climbed alpine-style from 29 Oct. 5th Nov descent via Swiss route (South Ridge) in two days.

  Cholatse was difficult rock, ice and unconsolidated snow in upper half of face. Very steep face (70 degrees and vertical pillar).

  Chunk of ice hit Freer on head, smashed her helmet and changed pressure in her head and gave her headache. Would have killed her if not wearing helmet; she was 100 ft from 2nd biv on 70-degree ice face leading to vertical pillar.

  Also climbed new route on Lobuche East 6119m via E Ridge.


  Todd Bibler - 6 March 1985

  14-23 Oct trekked in area to look at route, visited Everest BC and Kalapattar.

  24 Oct to 27 Oct from Cholatse BC climbed Lobuche East. Bibler and Freer went up East Ridge and down SW Ridge while other 2 went up and down SW Ridge.

  28 Oct Cholatse climb.

accidents:
  Chunk of ice hit Freer on head, smashed her helmet, changed pressure in her head, and gave her headache (would have killed her if not wearing helmet); she was 30m from Biv2 on 70 degrees ice face leading to vertical pillar


expid: CHOY84302
peakid: CHOY
year: 1984
route1: S Ridge
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Matjaz Pecovnik
sponsor: Slovene Impol Cho Oyu Exoedition
bcdate: 1984-09-29
smtdate: 1984-10-27
termdate: 1984-10-28
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to wind
othersmts: Climbed Kangchung Shar (by Knez) (KCHS-843-01)
accidents: Freser frostbite which will heal; Tic bruised by falling stone
campsites:
  BC(29/09,5400m),C1(05/10,5700m),C2(19/10,6600m),Biv1(25/10,7000m),Biv2(26/10,7500m),xxx(27/10,7700m)

routememo:
  BC at west side of Lungsampa Glacier east of point 6500m
  C1 on rock, west side of Glacier.

  Had climbed by all technical problems but defeated by wind. Very steep ice which was brittle and broke much of route. Fixed 1000m rope on ice. Below C2 was difficult rock. Also danger from falling seracs and rock below C2.

  Freser frostbite which will heal; Tic bruised by falling stone.


expid: LOBE84303
peakid: LOBE
year: 1984
route1: SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Dominique Hembise
ascent1: 8th
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 1984-10-27
smtdate: 1984-11-05
smttime: 1330
othersmts: Attempted Lobuche West
campsites: BC(27/10,5100m),C1(02/11,5650m),C2(04/11,6000m),Smt(05/11)
routememo:
  BC at west side of small lake southeast of point 5551m and northwest of 5245m
  C1 on SE Ridge
  C2 just under East Summit
  High point at East Summit.

  Fixed 600m rope between C1 and E Summit. Very long ridge climb from E to W Summit with heavy equipment and probably one camp more. Perhaps 2 weeks more climbing. Had very good weather but fixed program left no time. For E Summit route quite easy except 150m last section below summit because of saw tooth ridge including 80-degree ice and very narrow ridge with very steep slopes on both side. Had used most of rope they brought. Skied down from C1 to BC. If more time available, would have done from higher up after putting in protecting rope and anyway snow not good. W Face possible to ski down but dangerous, difficult and most interesting.

  3 went from BC to summit to BC on 5th Nov, while 3 others from C1 to summit to BC that day.


expid: LOBW84301
peakid: LOBW
year: 1984
route1: E Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Tamotsu Ohnishi
sponsor: Osaka Alpine Club Expedition 1984 Autumn Lobuje West
ascent1: 1st
bcdate: 1984-09-14
smtdate: 1984-09-28
smttime: 1030
termdate: 1984-09-28
campsites: BC(14/09,5000m),C1(26/09,5650m),Biv(27/09,6000m),Smt(28/09)
accidents: None
routememo:
  BC north of Lobuche village
  C1 above icefall of Lobuche Glacier
  Biv at East Face.

  All members made route through icefall, which was unstable and difficult, but only Kamakura and Taguchi reached C1 while others went trekking and relaxed in BC with wives/girl friends. Face also difficult, mixed rock and ice steep (60-65 degree) and hanging glacier. Summiters left biv at 8:00 am on 28 Sept and on top at 10:30 am and back in BC at 6:00 pm.


expid: PUMO84301
peakid: PUMO
year: 1984
route1: E Face-NE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Ki-Hwan
sponsor: 1984 Pumori Expedition
countries: Canada, USA
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1984-08-29
smtdate: 1984-09-22
termnote: Abandoned at 6260m due to soft, broken ice conditions
accidents: None
campsites:
  BC(29/08,5300m),C1(02/09,5500m),C2(06/09,5800m),C3(10/09,5900m),C4(16/09,6000m),Biv(19/09,6100m),C5(22/09,6270m),xxx(22/09,6260m)

routememo:
  BC near Everest BC.

  Climbing style was 2 men fixing rope and descending, next day 2 other men put tent as camp at top of ropes and so on - hence so many camps.

  Had problem with ice which was too soft in warm weather and broke off so had to go onto rock face (and climbers were specialists). Made direct line up rock to their C5 in very difficult climb on rock in bad weather: too cloudy to defrost fixed rope till late morning. Didn't have enough rock pitons. Then when got to ridge thought would be easy walk to top but found as remaining serious rock obstacle and no pitons and rope left for this job.


expid: CHOY84301
peakid: CHOY
year: 1984
route1: W Ridge-W Face (Messner 1983 rte)
nation: Spain
leaders: Lluis Belvis Del Rio
sponsor: Catalan Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 8th,9th
countries: France
approach: Thame->Dzasampa moraine BC
bcdate: 1984-08-22
smtdate: 1984-09-20
smttime: 1000
termdate: 1984-09-21
campsites: BC(22/08,5200m),C1(31/08,5650m),C2(04/09,6400m),C3(11/09,7050m),C4(18/09,7450m),Smt(20-21/09)
accidents: None; Belvis to C2 only because not strong climber
routememo:
  BC at Dzasampa on Nangpa Glacier last spot before moraine.

  SW Ridge to W Face. 1st summit attempt failed on Sep 19. Successful attempts on Sep 20-21. 

  1st attempt on 19th from 4 by 3 members and Nima Dorje, but too much snow falling and return to C4 from high point 7850m. On 20th party arrived top 10:00 am in strong wind. Fog and snow falling during descent. 2 hours later 2nd group of 2 members with small tent decided to try to reach top but wind forced biv at 7900m at 3:00 pm. Next day got to top at 9:00 am. 

  Between C2 and C3 was technically most difficult part, through seracs and crevasses requiring 200m on fixed rope for descent when tired, but not really very difficult. Saw 2 slab avalanches very near. Route used about same as those of Messner and Czech ladies. Really much same as Tichy except between C1 and C2.


expid: MAKA84302
peakid: MAKA
year: 1984
route1: W Face-NW Ridge up; variation down
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Romolo Nottaris
sponsor: Nottaris Makalu Expedition
ascent1: 21st
bcdate: 1984-09-11
smtdate: 1984-09-29
smttime: 1900
termdate: 1984-10-01
campsites:
  BC(11/09,5350m),C1(20/09,6100m),C2(23/09,6400m),Biv1(24/09,6850m),Biv2(28/09,7800m),Smt(29/09),Biv3(29/09,7500m)

routememo:
  Nottaris, Petrini and Righeschi prepared route from North BC up to C2 at 6850m. 250m rope was fixed up along the way up to 6850m. Nottaris climbed alone to summit leaving C2 at 3 am of 28 Sept. Reached summit on 29 Sept at 7 pm. Bivouacked on descent at 7500m at midnight.

  24th all down to BC after reaching 6850m that day. 27th Righeschi and Nottaris moved up from BC to C2 and Righeschi to 6850m to dump Nottaris' equipment there and returned that night to C2 with Nottaris. 28th Sept Nottaris started up 3:00 am, picked up equipment at 6850m at end of fixed rope and bived at 7800m. 29th Sept very strong wind and stayed in biv till 11:00 am when wind abated and Nottaris went up to top 7:00 pm and stayed few minutes, hand frostbitten. Descended to 7500m on normal route to N Col on 30th and then more direct route reached BC 9:30 pm 30th Sept.
   
  Very difficult 6400-6900m, 60-degrees ice and rock. Much wind every day, but Nottaris well acclimatized in Zanskar in July-Aug 1984. If not this 40 days above 4500m to 6300m, could not have made this climb. So much wind, all bare rock (no snow) above 7400m.

  LO died 13 Sept in Hillary BC from pulmonary edema. Body taken by Italians liaison officer and cremated several days later elsewhere.

  Petrini left BC 26 Sept a little ill. Nottaris slight frostbite left fingers but healing.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 5 Oct 84

  Succeeded to put Nottaris on summit. He left BC on 27 Sept to climb mountain and established C1 6400m and C2 7800m. 29 Sept at 19:00 hours Nottaris reached top where stayed 10 minutes and took photos in clear and windy weather; returned to 7500m that night. 30 Sept at 10:00 pm reached BC.

  Fingers of his left hand have frostbite.

  One member Sergio Petrini left BC 25 Sept because of respiratory problem.
  West Face permitted route, apparent solo ascent.

accidents:
  Petrini left BC Sep 26, slightly ill; Nottaris slight frostbite left fingers but healing; LO died of edema on Sept 13 at BC


expid: LSHR84301
peakid: LSHR
year: 1984
route1: S Ridge (to 6810m)
route2: SE Ridge (to 6250m)
nation: UK
leaders: Adrian Burgess
sponsor: Anglo-Canadian Lhotse Shar Expedition
countries: USA
bcdate: 1984-08-28
smtdate: 1984-09-26
termdate: 1984-10-07
termnote: Abandoned at 6810m due to S Ridge too much for team of only 4
accidents: None; Burgess said O'Donnell was sick 'all the time'
campsites:
  BC(28/08,5335m),S.Ridge-C1(13/09,5880m),C2(24/09,6660m),xxx(26/09,6810m); SE.Ridge-C1(02/10,5945m),xxx(06/10,6250m)

routememo:
  BC at west side of Lhotse Shar Glacier
  C1 then SE Ridge.

  Went 500 ft above C2 but then needed more fixed rope for steep snow and since had no more rope, had to switch route to SE Ridge and put in a camp on this Ridge at 5950m. Highest point on this route (6250m) on 6th Oct by Burgess twins.

  High point on S Ridge (6810m) reached by all 5 members in late Sept. Had not brought enough fixed rope because reports earlier expeditions did not indicate such technical problems - plus snow conditions bad with late monsoon.

  On the 28th August 1984 Alan, Adrian and Mike set up base camp on the west bank of the Imja Glacier; beneath the eastern flank of the Island Peak at a height of approximately 17,000 ft. The route to C1 was begun on the 2nd Sept and lay up moraine; rubble covered glacier and slopes on the eastern side of the col a northern traverse over a series of snowy bumps; followed by a 70 ft. abseil onto the western flank, led to a glacial shelf and the site of C1 at 19,100 ft.

  This camp was finally established on 10th Sept and work on the lower part of the South Spur began. Very deep snow was encountered and fixing rope up the crest of the spur was very slow work. Every day it snowed after 12 noon and the weather only improved after 20th Sept.

  On the 17th Sept George and Paul arrived at base-camp and were soon helping in the preparation of the route. Over a number of days the fixed rope was pushed out to a height of 22,000 ft and a 600 ft, traverse left to a C2 beneath a small serac. On the 24th Sept Paul and Alan moved to C2 and fixed 600 feet more rope. At this stage they were in a position to see that we would still require 1500 ft more rope which we would have to buy from the nearby village of Pheriche.

  On the 26th Sept Adrian and Mike went to C2 to continue the fixing of rope. At the high point it became obvious that all the hard work which was still necessary for the establishing of C3 would prove too much for the physical strength and morale of our small group. The team returned to base-camp.

  Alan and Adrian Burgess then decided to change the climbing permit to that of the SE Ridge of Lhotse Shar, as it appeared easier than the former route.

  Climbing quickly to 21,000 ft they encountered a serious serac barrier which they felt required some fixed rope for the descent. The two-some were not able to carry fixed rope for the descent and so the expedition was abandoned on 7th Sept.


expid: THAM84301
peakid: THAM
year: 1984
route1: E Face-S Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Shin Yong-Tae
sponsor: 1984 Korea Pusan Himalaya Mt. Thamserku Expedition
ascent1: 4th
bcdate: 1984-09-15
smtdate: 1984-09-27
smttime: 0915
campsites: BC(15/09,4350m),C1(17/09,4850m),C2(21/09,5750m),C3(26/09,6400m),Smt(27/09)
accidents: None
routememo:
  BC near lake due south of mountain at southwest end Kyashar Glacier.

  Reached top at 9:15 am after 3-1/4 hrs climb on more knife-edge ridge of mixed snow and rock in strong wind and thick fog. Sure they reached summit: searched all round.

  C2 to C3 very difficult knife-edge ridge (snow). C1 to C2 rock climb on ridge.


expid: MAKA84301
peakid: MAKA
year: 1984
route1: SE Buttress (to 6800m)
route2: NW side-N Ridge (to 7900m)
nation: Italy
leaders: Almo Giambisi
sponsor: Italian Mountaineering Expedition 'City of Trento' to Makalu
bcdate: 1984-09-07
smtdate: 1984-10-10
termdate: 1984-10-16
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to bad weather (strong winds)
accidents: Nardi left early due to altitude sickness; nothing else
campsites:
  BC(07/09,5000m),C1(12/09,5700m),C2(17/09,6500m),Biv1(06/10,5800m),Biv2(07/10,6700m),Biv3(08/10,7400m),Biv4(09/10,7800m),xxx(10/10,7900m)

routememo:
  BC northwest of Barun Pokhari near start of Barun Glacier
  C1 just north of and below point 5860m
  C2 on buttress of Czech route
  Biv on normal route
  Under Makalu La on Chago Glacier
  At Makalu La.

  Team only reached 6800m on SE Buttress Czech route. Strong winds forced retreat on 19 Sept. After weather improved two weeks later, team attempted normal route up to Makalu Col and N Ridge. Martini and De Stefani reached 7900m on 10 Oct when forced down by strong winds.

  On buttress reached maximum 6800m hoping to put C3 at 7000m, but for 2 weeks could not go up because strong wind. Then decided to change to normal route and brought down all gear from 6800m and up by Martini, De Stefani, Valeruz and Stedile and on 8 Oct 4 Sherpas joined them at Col. On 9th Oct Stedile stayed on col while other 3 on up to 7800m on Kukuczka ridge. There Valeruz had stomach trouble and returned on skis to 6700m while others moved up to 7800m for own summit bid. On 10th Oct Martini and De Stefani tried for top, reached 7900m but wind stopped them and descended to 5400m via 6700m biv when others also left in descent. Then helped bring down Spanish expedition's man - arrived with him on 16th Oct and anyway lot of snowfall.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 5 Oct 84

  After reached C2 asked for route change to northwest side and this will be granted if Spaniards have no objection.


expid: BARU84301
peakid: BARU
year: 1984
route1: SE Ridge
nation: W Germany
leaders: Guenther Haerter
sponsor: DAV Baruntse Berg und Skischule Expedition
ascent1: 15th-18th
countries: Austria
bcdate: 1984-10-21
smtdate: 1984-10-27
termdate: 1984-11-02
campsites: BC(21/10,5400m),C1(23/10,6100m),C2(25/10,6650m),Smt(27-29,31/10)
accidents: None
routememo:
  BC just west of lake which is north of point 5950m
  C1 at West Col
  C2 west of point 6730m.

  Larcher, Konzert and Guertler to top from C1, others from C2 on 27 Oct. Steep but not technically difficult climb in excellent weather though cold west wind. 3 left C1 at 5:00 am while leader in C2 night of 27 Oct.

  Larcher, Konzert and Guertler left BC on 31 Oct; rest of team were to leave BC on 2 or 3 Nov.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 5 Nov 84

  Nepalese summiters on 27 Oct were
    Lobsang Lama, 27
    Mapa Sherpa, 25
    Nawang Tenzing Sherpa, 35


expid: MAKA84303
peakid: MAKA
year: 1984
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Antonio Luna Rodriguez
sponsor: Cordoba Makalu Expedition
countries: Canada
bcdate: 1984-09-30
smtdate: 1984-10-10
termdate: 1984-10-16
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to accident of a member and need for all members to evacuate him
campsites: BC(30/09,5400m),C1(06/10,5900m),C2(07/10,6800m),C3(08/10,7400m),xxx(10/10,7500m)
routememo:
  BC at junction of Barun and Chago Glaciers
  C1 on Chago Glacier
  C3 at Makalu Col
  High point on NW Ridge.

  From C3 in alpine-style on 10th Oct all 4 climbers to 7500m on NW Ridge, but strong wind and all go down to BC on 11th except Blasevich who stayed in C3. Blasevich to C2 on 12th Oct when his crampon caught in trousers at 7000m and he fell 300m, landed 20m from C2 and stayed there until 15th Oct (others did not know of accident). 14th Oct Italian expedition and 3 Spaniards went to C2 together and found Blasevich with knee injury and bad frostbite from accident and brought him down to C1 on 15th and to BC 16th. Blasevich carried down by porters and helicoptered out 23 Oct. Could have reached summit in 4-5 days climbing with no accidents.

  Blasevich 3 days in C2 no food and drink following accident and bad frostbite in toes and fingers as well as knee injury and some facial cuts. In falling lost gloves. This only accident and was "stupid accident."


  Shrestha, Tourism - 22 Oct 84

  Abandoned after 7500m reached. Mario Blasevich which ascending from C2 to C3 in spite of bad weather fell on snow and seriously injured. Brought to BC and the 8 km below BC to NE place and helicopter urgently requested. Injured legs, hands and face. Helicopter maybe 23rd. Had made C3 at 7400m on 10 Oct. No information regarding C1 and C2.

accidents:
  Blasevich alone 3 days in C2 with no food & drink following 300m-fall, bad frostbite in toes & fingers as well as knee injury and some facial cuts, lost gloves in fall


expid: ANN384301
peakid: ANN3
year: 1984
route1: W Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Ko Kwang-Soo
sponsor: Chosum University Alpine Club Expedition to Annapurna III
bcdate: 1984-10-12
smtdate: 1984-10-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6650m due to stolen equipment
campsites: BC(12/10,4160m),C1(14/10,5300m),C2(18/10,6000m),C3(27/10,6300m),xxx(28/10,6650m)
accidents: Choi hit by ice avalanche on Oct 28 and face cut by ice (not really serious)
routememo:
  Route contained many icefalls which required fixed rope.

  Lots of icefalls needing fixed rope but a porter or someone stole rope and safety belt, so had to abandon climb. C1 to C3 and above all icefall area and some big crevasses. BC to C1 difficult rocky moraine. "Annapurna III very difficult" but Ko intends to return in 1986 with 7 other Koreans (again no Sherpas) to Annapurna III and Gangapurna.


expid: FANG84301
peakid: FANG
year: 1984
route1: W Ridge from N
nation: USA
leaders: Wesley Krause
sponsor: Mountain Madness Fang Expedition
bcdate: 1984-09-20
smtdate: 1984-10-10
termdate: 1984-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 7315m due to bad weather and lack of food
campsites:
  BC(20/09,3500m),C1(26/09,4875m),C2(28/09,5400m),C3(30/09,6100m),C4(03/10,6400m),C5(06/10,6850m),xxx(10/10,7315m)

routememo:
  BC in Mristri Khola near Thulobugin's "n"
  C1 on big snow flute to West Ridge
  C2 on West Ridge
  C3 on West Ridge
  C4 on West Ridge
  High point on West Ridge.

  4 bad weather days at C4 and had only 3 days food with them on 10th. So picked up camp and tried to move it next position at 24,500 ft on ridge but moved slowly because windy and snowing so returned to 22,500 ft. Then waited to see if weather would improve but Fischer went up for fixed rope and then both started down on 16th Oct. Came down N Face of W Ridge, down a spur, rather than ascent route. Spent 1 night in biv at c17,500 ft took much longer than expected which was why food running out. Most difficult technically was traversing a flute of mixed ice, rock and snow between C1 and C2. Again above C4 was narrow exposed climbing.

accidents:
  Hladick left BC because wasn't acclimatizing; Krause twisted ankle while coming down from high point on Oct 10


expid: ANNS84301
peakid: ANNS
year: 1984
route1: NE Ridge-E Face
nation: USA
leaders: Mark Udall
sponsor: Colorado Annapurna S Expedition
ascent1: 8th
approach: Annapurna Sanctuary->Annapurna BC
bcdate: 1984-09-21
smtdate: 1984-10-23
smttime: 1500
othersmts: Climbed Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak)
campsites: BC(21/09,4265m),C1(13/10,4875m),C2(17/10,5425m),C3(20/10,5945m),C4(21/10,6520m),Smt(23/10)
accidents: One small avalanche between C2 & C3 swept one member 20m into small crevasse, but no damage done
achievment: 1st American on mountain
routememo:
  Technically difficult sections of steep ice between C3 and C4. 3 sections of same above C4 to summit ridge at 22,700 ft (where they ridge) which was fairly near South Summit, i.e., the highest summit. Between C1 and C3 quite intricate icefall route finding. Most dangerous part is between C2 and C3 which is subject to avalanches falling seracs from North Summit. Traversed across this in interest of speed: not a route to spend lots of time on. Went up the mountain in one continuous push from 13 Oct to 23 Oct.


expid: ANN184302
peakid: ANN1
year: 1984
route1: Glacier Dome-E Ridge up; N Face (Dutch Rib) down
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Frank Tschirky
sponsor: Swiss Annapurna Expedition (to E Ridge of Annapurna I)
ascent1: 12th
bcdate: 1984-09-17
smtdate: 1984-10-24
smttime: 1330
termdate: 1984-11-02
accidents: None
othersmts:
  Traversed East & Middle Summits of Annapurna I (ANNE-843-01, ANNM-843-02); climbed Roc Noir (ROCN-843-01); traversed under summit of Glacier Dome (GLAC-843-02)

campsites:
  BC(17/09,4200m),C1(19/09,5600m),C2(27/09,6500m),C3(04/10,7100m),C4(06/10,7425m),E-Smt(23/10),Biv1(23/10,8020m),Middle-Main-Smt(24/10),Biv2(24/10,7000m),Biv3(25/10,5000m)

routememo:
  BC   at west side of ridge running south from Fluted Peak
  C1   at 5600m foot of Fluted peak's SW ridge (not the S Ridge)
  C2   at 6500m foot of Glacier Dome
  C3   at 7100m below and west of Glacier Dome summit at beginning of 
          Annapurna I's East Ridge
  C4   at 7425m west of Roc Noir summit on the ridge
  Biv1 on 23 Oct at col between East and Middle summits
  Biv2 on North Face
  Biv3 on 5000m on North Face.

  Most difficult part was descent on unprepared route but to return E Ridge too long and fierce winds at continuously high altitude. Next most difficult parts were W Spur of Fluted Peak between C1 and C2 (ice nose of 70m) and between East and Middle summits (high altitude) and Middle to Main summits (rock band).

  New route and 1st traverse: "very great feat for us without oxygen, without Sherpas, in alpine-style" says Loretan.

  Do not know whether other members followed to any summits.

  When Loretan and Joos left C4 on 23 Oct, no one remained in C4. 24 Oct Tschirky and Hobi moved up to C4 for a summit bid, but Hobi got sick and on 25 Oct they went to C2 while Buehler went up to C4 for a summit bid. 26 Oct Buehler too, was not well and descended to BC while Tschirky and Hobi also came down to BC and climb was finished.

  Distances crow flies: 
    C4 to East Summit - 4 km
    C4 to Main Summit - 6 km

  None except altitude illness from insufficient acclimatization by all except Loretan and Joos, but not serious illness.

                                                                                              
  Loretan

  Annapurna Swiss E Ridge started on 22 Oct. At 3:30 saw them from west from Rock Noir in good weather, no winds, no clouds. Had by chance to reach summit - was good weather also next 2 days.

achievment:
  Traversed East & Middle & Main Summits of Annapurna; 1st East Ridge ascent 1st E-W-N traverse; 1st traverse of any kind


expid: ANN184301
peakid: ANN1
year: 1984
route1: W Face up; N Face down
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Jean Troillet
sponsor: Steiner-Troillet Expedition
bcdate: 1984-09-16
smtdate: 1984-10-12
termdate: 1984-10-19
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to bad weather approaching and Steiner's frostbite
campsites:
  BC(16/09,4000m),Biv1(06/10,5000m),Biv2(07/10,6100m),Biv3(08/10,6700m),Biv4(10/10,7400m),xxx(12/10,7600m)

routememo:
  No fixed camps above BC, no fixed ropes - before push to top had reached almost 6000m in recce of face on 30th Sept. Began push from BC 6th Oct. Steep ice (70-90 degrees). On 10/11 Oct night wind so strong had to dig snow cave at 2:00 am. 12th Oct strong wind and clear skies got to 7600m on shoulder of NW Ridge and back to 7400m. Saw bad weather coming from west and only 1 gas bottle left so continued down via extreme W Side on N Face to N Face team's C2 to BC of this autumn Japanese-Czech team. Arrived BC 5:00 am on 13th. 

  Main problem was wind. On 12th poor "visibility." We didn't know where we were plus 55-90 degrees steep face mostly ice, little rock made it technically difficult.

accidents:
  Steiner right finger frostbitten; fell 200m, had soft snow avalanche cover them and fell into small crevasse on descent


expid: ANN184303
peakid: ANN1
year: 1984
route1: N Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Shunji Takegawa
sponsor: 1984 Tokyo-Tatras Expedition to Nilgiri S & Annapurna I
countries: Czechoslovakia, France
approach: Mristi Khola
bcdate: 1984-09-27
smtdate: 1984-10-23
termdate: 1984-10-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to objective danger
othersmts: Attempted Nilgiri South (NILS-84-301) and Nilgiri North (NILN-84-301)
campsites: BC(27/09,4150m),C1(07/10,5100m),C2(19/10,5700m),xxx(23/10,6000m)
accidents: None except several members got sick
routememo:
  BC at 1/2 hour below (north of) usual site.

  Very hard ice, one big serac avalanche came down; it hit no one but face too dangerous to continue climbing on it.

  Left BC 28th Oct.


  Prachanda Shrestha, Ministry of Tourism - 2 April 1985

  Ministry Letter to Japan Mountaineering Assoc regarding Japanese-Czech 1984 autumn to Annapurna I and Nilgiri South; leader Shunji Takegawa, 1954, Tokyo, editor alpine magazine.

  Misdeed: one member Yumazaki and Khadka beat a local porter in presence of leader (who did not intervene) on way to BC because porters demand for more wages, but leader denied beating.

  Letter drawing Association notice: "activities and behavior of this team's members were not satisfactory in their relation with Nepali workers and please request Japanese mountaineers to maintain spirit and good will and understanding."


expid: NILN84301
peakid: NILN
year: 1984
route1: E Ridge from S
nation: Japan
leaders: Shunji Takegawa
sponsor: 1984 Tokyo-Tatras Expedition to Nilgiri S & Annapurna I
countries: Czechoslovakia
approach: Mristi Khola
bcdate: 1984-09-27
smtdate: 1984-10-10
termdate: 1984-10-28
termnote: Success only E Smt of Nilgiri North
othersmts: Atempted Nilgiri South (NILS-84-301) and Annapurna I (ANN1-843-03)
campsites: BC(27/09,4150m),C1(01/10),C2(02/10),C3(08/10),C4(09/10),E-Smt(10/10)
accidents: None
achievment: Reached an eastern summit
primid: ANN184303
routememo:
  The eastern summit is about 6800m high and it is halfway between Nilgiri North's highest point and a col farther east between Tilicho and Nilgiri North.

  The summit pair climbed in very strong wind on 19 Oct.

  This was an unauthorized attempt. Report to Ministry of Tourism said these summiters went to went to top of Nilgiri South.


expid: NILS84301
peakid: NILS
year: 1984
route1: E Ridge from N
nation: Japan
leaders: Shunji Takegawa
sponsor: 1984 Tokyo-Tatras Expedition to Nilgiri S & Annapurna I
countries: Czechoslovakia, France
approach: Mristi Khola
bcdate: 1984-09-27
smtdate: 1984-10-02
termdate: 1984-10-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to of seracs
othersmts: Attempted Nilgiri North (NILN-84-301) and Annapurna I (ANN1-843-03)
campsites: BC(27/09,4150m),C1(30/09,4900m),C2(01/10,5600m),xxx(02/10,6000m)
accidents: None
primid: ANN184303
routememo:
  Big seracs above 6000m point caused them to turn back.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 2 April 85

  Ministry letter to Japan Mountaineering regarding Japan-Czech 1984 autumn expedition to Annapurna I and Nilgiri South; leader: Shunji Takegawa, born 54, Tokyo, editor alpine magazine

  Misdeed: one member Yumazaki beat a local porter in presence of leader (who did not interfere) on way 26 Sept to BC because parties demand for more wages but leader denied beating. 

  Letter drawing Association's notice:

  Activities and behaviour of this team's members were not satisfactory in their relations with Nepalese workers and please request Japanese to "maintain spirit and goodwill and understanding."


expid: GLAC84302
peakid: GLAC
year: 1984
route1: SW side (enroute to Annapurna I)
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Frank Tschirky
sponsor: Swiss Annapurna Expedition (to E Ridge of Annapurna I)
bcdate: 1984-09-17
smtdate: 1984-10-02
termdate: 1984-11-02
termnote: Traversed below summit enroute to Annapurna I
campsites: BC(17/09,4200m),C1(19/09,5600m),C2(27/09,6500m),C3(02/10,7100m),xxx
primid: ANN184302
othersmts:
  Climbed Annapurna I (ANN1-843-02), Annapurna I East Smt (ANNE-843-01), Annapurna I Middle Smt (ANNM-843-02) and Roc Noir (ROCN-843-01)


expid: ANNM84301
peakid: ANNM
year: 1984
route1: S Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Nil Bohigas Martorell
sponsor: Annapurna South Face Expedition - Spanish
ascent1: 3rd
approach: Pokhara->Modi Khola->Annapurna Sanctuary
bcdate: 1984-08-15
smtdate: 1984-10-03
smttime: 1230
termnote: Success only on middle summit, not main summit
othersmts: Attempted Annapurna I (ANN1-843-01)
accidents: None
campsites:
  BC(15/08,4200m),Biv1(27/09,5800m),Biv2(28/09,7100m),Biv(29/09,7250m),Biv4(30/09,7400m),Biv5(01/10,7600m),Biv6(02/10,7800m),Smt(03/10),Biv7(03/10,7800m)

routememo:
  Started actual climb 27th Sept when left BC for ABC. Next climb was 18 hours ("all night and little morning") surmounting dangerous rock-avalanche area to biv at 7100m. To 7250m biv took all day artificial climbing, very difficult steep section of broken rock where 1 man fell twice and other one once. From 7600 to 7800m again rock which was very steep, but "very nice to climb," not rotten. Reached Middle Summit on 3 Oct and slept in 7800m biv. 4th Oct descended all way to 5600m in 15 hrs, helped by moonlight but with no fixed ropes in perhaps first such descent in Himalaya.

  Route used to go up was same as MacIntyre used and very dangerous to 6700m from rockfall in day time so climbed entirely at night. Descent route very near Polish 1981 spring route.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 9 Oct 84

  2 members 
    Lucas Erich, 22, alpine guide, Barcelona
    Nil Bohigas, 25, guide, Barcelona

  Summit via South Face without oxygen 3 Oct at 12:20 hours. Clear but windy weather; stayed 90 minutes, took photos from all angles; left 13:50 hours and returned to last biv at 15:30 hours. Put Nepalese, Spanish flags and khota on top. Leave BC 10 Oct.

  BC 4200m
  1st biv 5800m - 27 Sept
  2nd biv 7100m - 28 Sept
  3rd biv 7250m - 29 Sept
  4th     7400m - 30 Sept
  5th     7600m - 1  Oct
  6th     7800m


expid: GLAC84301
peakid: GLAC
year: 1984
route1: SW side (from col betw Fluted Peak & Glac Dome)
nation: Austria
leaders: Josef Oberauer
sponsor: Austrian Glacier Dome Expedition
ascent1: 10th
countries: USA, W Germany
bcdate: 1984-10-12
smtdate: 1984-10-22
campsites: BC(12/10,4300m),C1(17/10,5050m),C2(19/10,5400m),C3(20/10,5650m),C4(21/10,6050m),Smt(22/10)
accidents: 2 members sick at Macchapuchare BC and left expedition (not altitude sickness)
routememo:
  BC at 4300m SE of Fluted Peak - between Fluted and Tent Peak on moraine
  C1 on 5050m at beginning of icefalls below saddle between moraine of 
     Fluted Peak and Glacier Dome's West Ridge
  C3 at 5650m above couloir and just  before big icefall
  C4 at 6050m near top of big icefall.

  Had problems with bad new snow to C2, C3 and C4. Between C2 and C3 big very dangerous couloir (from icefall and avalanches). Between C3 and C4 very steep big icefall which needed 60m fixed rope. Then above C4 big crevasse which 60m+ deep and 10m wide from one end of glacier to other but small snow bridges out from each side at right end of crevasse. Also steep slope avalanches, one of which carried a Sherpa 15m between C3 and C4. From saddle to top good snow and steps by Swiss East Ridge but from C4 to saddle at 6200m one more big crevasses but not so much trouble as lower one.


expid: TILI84301
peakid: TILI
year: 1984
route1: N Face-N Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Emmanuel Schmutz
sponsor: Yak & Yeti Expedition to Tilicho
countries: Belgium, Spain
bcdate: 1984-10-18
smtdate: 1984-10-27
termdate: 1984-10-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to strong winds
campsites: BC(18/10,4800m),C1(23/10,5800m),C2(25/10,6200m),xxx(27/10,6600m)
achievment: 1st Spanish attempt on mountain
agency: Amtrek
routememo:
  BC as same as Group I (northwest shore of Tilicho Lake)
  C1 on top of first spur
  C2 on NW Ridge
  High point on NW Ridge.

  Technically not difficult, 1st spur rock is Grade 3. At top of this just below C1 65 degrees snow. But first climb in Himalaya for all in Spanish group including leader. Left BC 30th Oct for Jomsom via Mesokanto Pass which is very steep on far side (NW).

  Not on mountain, but one member got frostbitten finger on Mesokanto Pass as did seven porters in fingers and toes: just strong very cold wind.

  Autumn 1984 Tilicho French-Spanish:

  After expedition climbing finished, 7 local porters left in snowstorm and no members took any care of them - were between BC and Jomsom. On 31 Oct were taken to Jomsom hospital by 2 LO's and Dr. there suggested they be taken to KTM for treatment of smaller feet and hands. HMG asked trekking agent to provide funds to bring them to KTM and give treatment. Only then agent acted and they were given treatment and recovered. HMG asked leader through agent to report regarding incident as per rules but he never turned up. Agent said was out of KTM on trek: Rule 23 violated: neither leader or anyone on his behalf turned up.

  Therefore as per Rule 38 of Tourism Act HMG debarred Schmutz to participate in expedition for 5 years from 1984 autumn and have asked Federation Francaise de la Montagne, who recommended his expedition, to brief and meet all mountaineers before to abide by our regulations strictly and to maintain spirit of mountaineering for purpose of international friendship.

  Federation reply from Maurice Barrord, says very sorry; [HMG] decision seems justified and if we find Schmutz did as reported, Company will not sponsor him for any expeditions.

accidents:
  1 member frostbitten finger and seven porters frostbitten fingers and toes on Mesokanto Pass (strong very, cold wind)


expid: KGUR84301
peakid: KGUR
year: 1984
route1: W Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Bae Seung-Youl
sponsor: Kwang Woon/University Alpine Club Kang Guru Expedition 1984
ascent1: 11th
approach: Via Kang La
bcdate: 1984-09-12
smtdate: 1984-09-19
smttime: 0930
termdate: 1984-09-20
campsites: BC(12/09,4920m),C1(16/09,5920m),C2(18/09,6570m),Smt(19/09)
accidents: None
routememo:
  Cloudy day on 19th but before that very clear few days. Bae not to summit because altitude headache and not enough food supplies for more than one summit attack.

  Late reaching BC because bridge out near Meta and had to go long way around.

  Between BC and C1 700m fixed rope beause crevasses and steep snow. C1 to C2 only 40-50m fixed rope.


expid: HIME84301
peakid: HIME
year: 1984
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Michael (Mike) Yager
sponsor: American Himalchuli Expedition
ascent1: 4th
bcdate: 1984-09-16
smtdate: 1984-10-22
smttime: 1245
campsites: BC(16/09),C1(28/09,5485m),C2(02/10,6100m),C3(18/10,6700m),Biv(20/10,7255m),Smt(22/10)
accidents: Yager hit 3 times by rocks in gully system but no serious injuries; some frostnip
achievment: 1st American ascent; 1st autumn ascent 1st ascent of SW Ridge
routememo:
  Summit assault from bivouac delayed a day by fierce winds. 2 technically difficult sections: 

    (1) gully and rock system 16,000-17,500 ft where fixed 2000 ft, 
    (2) between C2 and C3 through an icefall of snow and ice climbing. 

  Less difficult than expected from 1979 attempt or more difficult E Ridge.

  2-18 Oct: one week of storm, rest and meeting with trekking group and 4 days to make icefall route.

  Yager hit 3 times by rocks in gully system but not serious injuries - some frostnip.

  Thomas left early because afraid.


  Letter from Stacey Standley - 29 Oct 1984

  Pema Dorje and Mike summited at 1:45 pm. Oct 22 followed by Erick Jackson and Dan Langmade 45 minutes later. They left C4 at 8:30 am. On the summit they found a Japanese ice axe on a piton.

  I have marked our 4 camps above base on the photo at the top. C1-18,000 ft, C2-20,000 ft, C3-22000 ft, C4-23,000 ft.

  All climbers ascended without oxygen. We spent 36 days on the mountain above the base camp. We were pinned in high camps by bad weather for 9 days.


expid: MANA84301
peakid: MANA
year: 1984
route1: S Ridge-SE Face
nation: Poland
leaders: Janusz Kulis
sponsor: Polish Manaslu Expedition 1984
ascent1: 24th
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 1984-09-13
smtdate: 1984-10-20
smttime: 1240
accidents: None
campsites:
  BC(13/09,4250m),ABC(15/09,4850m),C1(17/09,5850m),C2A(28/09,6200m),C2B(07/10,6750m),C3(19/10,7400m),TrueSmt(20/10)

routememo:
  From col to 7400m was on ridge and there are 2 rock pinnacles which took on right side on SE Face (Pungma side) and after turning pinnacles returned almost to Ridge. Reached col by couloir which gave some trouble in last 400m very steep ice and couloir, took 1200m fixed rope. Couloir very dangerous chute for any snow that fell - couloir was crux of the route.

  Route climbed actually followed S Ridge only about for 150m. Were mostly on SE Face, says Wielicki Aug 25, 1986.

  Two members left very early for personal reasons.


expid: MANA84302
peakid: MANA
year: 1984
route1: NE Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Cesare Cesa Bianchi
sponsor: Cesa-Bianchi 8000 to Manaslu
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 1984-09-21
smtdate: 1984-10-22
termdate: 1984-10-27
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to strong winds
accidents: None
campsites:
  BC(21/09,3500m),C1(24/09,4900m),C2(26/09,5600m),C3(06/10,6300m),C4(20/10,6800m),C5(22/10,7500m),xxx(22/10,7500m)

routememo:
  BC at usual site (1 hour from Samagaon)
  C1 beginning of glacier
  C2 at col between Manaslu and other peak (Naike Col)
  C3 at top of Icefall
  C4 on face
  C5 on start of summit plateau (usual site)
  High point at plateau.

  Between C1 and C2 crevasses not big problem but were there. C2 to C3 problem to find way in icefall and had not much rope (put 200m fixed rope) which took many days. 7th Oct started or top but 8th Oct in C2 started long snowstorm so down to BC. Again to C2 on 16th Oct in 1-1/2m deep snow (C1 buried so went direct to C2). Slow going up because of deep snow; technical difficulty between C2 and C3.

  26 Oct doctor's daughter went to 5600m where big dangerous seracs begin - with father and mother.


  Bruno Honegger - 5 Nov 1984

  Got to C1 carrying loads by ourselves; porters carried fuel but our gear Swiss carried several times; Sherpas sick or not carrying much.

  4 Swiss got to C1 very fast and stayed there 3-4 days.
  Difficult this autumn: this spring no crevasses and could ski.
  Between C2 and C3 many crevasses and icefalls in autumn; had to fix 5 ropes between C2 and C3; really had to climb to C3 and took many days.

  8 Oct started snowing 
  7 Oct reached C3 site and made depot and then back to C2.
  6 Oct had hoped to go from C2 to top
  9 Oct to BC = all 4 Swiss 

  Snowed 9 days
  17 Oct 4 Swiss started up again and had to make track; went to C2 (no tents in C1 for Swiss - Swiss had tent at C2 only); took 10 hours for Swiss to reach C2 at 5600-5700m,

  17 Oct Italians started up too - later than Swiss
  18 Oct Italians to C3 at 6300m
  19 Oct 4 Swiss to C3
  20 Oct 4 Swiss to C1 to yet supplies and up to C3
  21 Oct 4 Swiss to C4 at 6800m; also 2 Italians and 1 Sherpa Ang

  22 Oct all 7 to C4 in 5 hours quite hard; C5 7400-7500m steep snow and had to fix one rope; beautiful day, clear, no wind perfect for top; no crevasses above on way to top; but night wind came up all night.

  23 Oct no chance to go up because of wind; figured could wait to start 10:00 am (figured 6 hours to top); windy all day.

  24 Oct windy again; wind in fierce gusts; leaders wife went down because fingers freezing and sirdar toes freezing; sure 4 Swiss leader could get to top without wind; at 10:00 am "our last chance and we take it and go as far as we can;" got out of tent to go up but couldn't start up in wind so took down tent and cleared all camps including all garbage.

  25 Oct return to BC; Swiss left BC 27 Oct.

  No frostbite, leader hurt knee slightly in final descent.

  C1 at start of glacier 4700m. 26 Oct may be Dr. and daughter to C1; Dr. and wife (Carla Bianchi) did no climbing above BC except this.


expid: MANN84301
peakid: MANN
year: 1984
route1: N Face (permit for trekking only)
nation: W Germany
leaders: Klaus Wanger
sponsor: Manaslu N Expedition
countries: Austria
bcdate: 1984-10-17
smtdate: 1984-10-18
termdate: 1984-10-21
termnote: Abandoned at 5600m due to snow conditions, lack of food and time
campsites: BC(17/10,4800m),xxx(18/10,5600m)
accidents: None
routememo:
  BC at Larkya La just below pass, a low BC for recce only.

  No climbing at all because deep snow and food supplies and time running out and slab avalanches coming down N Face.


expid: GAUR84301
peakid: GAUR
year: 1984
route1: SE Ridge-S Smt
nation: Japan
leaders: Michio Yuasa
sponsor: Japanese Alpine Club Tokai Goodwill Expedition to Gaurishankar
bcdate: 1984-09-30
smtdate: 1984-10-19
smttime: 1545
termdate: 1984-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7010m because time had run out (already overdue in Japan)
othersmts: Summited Dolma Kang (Tseringma Peak)(DOLM-843-01)
achievment: 3rd ascent of South Smt
primid: GAUR84301
campsites:
  BC(30/08,4800m),C1(05/09,5600m),C2(21/09,6300m),C3(01/10,6300m),Biv(18/10,6350m),Biv(19/10,6600m),S-Smt(19/10,7010m)

routememo:
  BC at 4800m at NW of Beding and east of Ramdung Tolung
  C1 at 5600m at under rock face - just NW 
  C2 at 6314m top of Tseringma
  C3 at 6350m on face of S Summit
  Biv at 6600m on S Summit plateau (biv here after going to summit)
  High point at 7010m at S Summit.

  Climbed only to South Summit.

  Planned to make temporary C4 under final face on south side of South Summit, but could not make it because very bad storm from 8 Oct for a weak, so went to South Summit in two bivouacs. On 20 Oct Saito and 3 other Japanese from C2 to BC while other South Summiters stayed in C3. 21 Oct all other summiters to BC and climbing finished because time finished, must go back to work in Japan. To reach main summit would need 4 more days alpine style. Most difficult part: between BC and C2 not so difficult but near C3 called ridge "hell traverse" because was narrow sawtooth with mixed rock, soft snow and ice on its face. Total 8000m fixed rope.

  Some avalanches came down 7-9 Oct, but no one hit (fell across route about BC), but took out some fixed rope. Hamatani altitude sickness and left BC 4 Sept. Yuasa left BC 22 Sept with Hamatami after Hamatani had returned to expedition and again gotten sick.

accidents:
  Some avalanches on Oct 7-9, but no one hit (across route above BC and took out some fixed rope); Hamatani altitude sickness; Yuasa left BC with Hamatani after Hamatani had returned to expedition and again got sick


expid: CHOB84301
peakid: CHOB
year: 1984
route1: Central SW Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Michael Badham
sponsor: Ontario Himalayan Mountaineering Expedition to Chobuje
countries: UK
bcdate: 1984-10-07
smtdate: 1984-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6550m due to avalanching,lack of fixed-rope, food, and other equipment
othersmts: Attempted Ramdung
accidents: None
achievment: 1st British and Canadians on mountain
campsites:
  BC(07/10,4570m),C1(13/10,5335m),C2(14/10,6000m),Biv1(17/10,5950m),Biv2(19/10,6400m),xxx(20/10,6550m)

routememo:
  BC northeast shore of Tsho Rolpa Lake near "e" in Tsho on direct route towards summit.

  Snowed all night 14th Oct and all down to BC. 16th Oct on to rock band and fixed rope there (19,200-19,500 ft -> 19,000-19,200 ft snow field) which action knocked off rocks that went thru tent at C2. 17th Oct had biv at 19,500 ft at top of rock band. 19th Oct returned to 19,500 ft with gear to make push to top alpine style. Had no fixed rope left. "We left hardest 3000 ft to alpine-style climb above biv had to cross couloir fast because of rock, ice and snow coming down." On 19th climbed 2000 ft on ice and rock. 20th Oct climbed last 4-1/2 pitches to central SW Ridge (1st time gained ridge) which took 5-1/2 hours to 21,500 ft and then back down in ace of knife-edge ridge above and pinnacles to get around without fixed rope and food had run out.

  Were 7 climbing members. Myles left expedition 19 Oct because didn't want to go through rock face. Thomson climbed one of the early days and then remained at BC. McGladdery also left on 19th Oct, an inexperienced climber.


expid: GAN384301
peakid: GAN3
year: 1984
route1: W Ridge from Col between Ganesh IV & Ganesh III
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Roland Garin
sponsor: Diablerets Ganesh Expedition to Ganesh III
bcdate: 1984-09-22
smtdate: 1984-10-07
termdate: 1984-10-17
campsites: BC(22/09,4300m),C1(28/09,5300m),C2(02/10,6200m),xxx(07/10,6400m)
accidents: Wirz fell 2m at 4500m Sep 24, injured shoulder ('stupid accident')
termnote:
  Abandoned at 6400m due to heavy snow and wind (couldn't await better weather because need to return to work)

routememo:
  This mountain previously known as Ganesh II until re-surveyed in early 1990's.   

  Turned back on 7th Oct by bad weather. Planned C3 at about 6700m but never reached it. On 7th fixed same rope towards C3 and expected next day to make C3, but 8th very windy and cloudy and little snow. All night of 8/9 Oct snowed and decided to return to BC. That night C1 the two tents flattened and all poles broken by fierce wind; avalanche came down too but camp was protected by crevasse above into which avalanche fell. Route above C1 not very safe because of seracs. 14th 2 members and 2 Sherpas to C2 but deep snow above C1 and much new snow came all that night and wind. Down again on 15th with recoverable equipment (1 tent at C2 broken by heavy snow).

  Wirz on 24 Sept fell 2m at 4500m ("stupid accident", injured shoulder); this was all, but lost one day's climbing from it.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 23 Oct 84

  Abandoned climb. High point 6400m 7 Oct by 3 Swiss and sirdar but had to retreat because bad weather. 

  9 Oct C1 5300m swept away by wind avalanche and returned to BC to await better weather. 14 Oct 2 Swiss and 2 Sherpas went to C2 6200m, but 14th and 15th heavy snow and high wind. 15 Oct returned to BC and decided to abandon. Left BC 17 Oct and arrived KTM 23 Oct.


  Banskota, Tourism - 1 Oct 84

  BC at 4300m on 22 Sept. On 25 Sept when team was on way to fix rope to C1, Tony Wirz slipped on glacier, fell down 1 meter and dislocated left shoulder. He was helicoptered to KTM 29 Sept.

  C1 pitched at 5400m on 28 Sept Wirz reports.


expid: LANG84301
peakid: LANG
year: 1984
route1: NE Buttress
nation: USA
leaders: Daniel Newell
sponsor: Langtang Lirung N Face Expedition
bcdate: 1984-10-13
smtdate: 1984-10-23
termdate: 1984-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 5030m due to inadequate equipment and funds
campsites: BC(13/10,3350m),C1(21/10,4510m),C2.Biv(23/10,4940m),xxx(23/10,5030m)
accidents: Big avalanche near BC which hurt no one
achievment: 1st attempt from north?
routememo:
  C2 above a rock face.
  High point at large scree field.

  Gave up climb because of shortage of rope and ice gear to cross heavily crevassed glacier. Also gave up because of lack of funds. Was good recce for further attempt.

  No accidents in Newell's report and trekking agent Ang Chota says none occured, but there was a big avalanche near BC which hurt no one.


expid: GAN384302
peakid: GAN3
year: 1984
route1: SW Face (basically Polish 1983)
nation: UK
leaders: Rick Allen
sponsor: British Ganesh Himalaya Expedition 1984
ascent1: 4th
bcdate: 1984-09-28
smtdate: 1984-10-15
termdate: 1984-10-19
accidents: None
achievment: 1st Britons to top: unclimbed route
campsites:
  BC(28/09,4300m),Biv1(07/10,5000m),Biv2(08/10,5400m),Biv3(08/10,5700m),Biv4(10/10,6000m),Biv5(11/10,6200m),Biv6(13/10,6500m),Biv7(14/10,6900m),Biv8(15/10,7100m),Smt(15/10),Biv9(15/10,7050m)

routememo:
  This mountain previously known as Ganesh II until re-surveyed in early 1990's.   

  3-4th Oct did recce on face and left dump at foods and fuel at 5400m (Pole's 2nd biv). Started ascent on 7th Oct and climbed almost continuously for 9 days (12th Oct stayed at 6200m because biv at bad site; hanging biv in blowing snow, unable to cook). A lot of climb was extremely steep ice climbing but fixed no ropes - typical of an alpine north wall. Small risk of stone fall which concentrated in chutes ("we ran across those"). 14-16th Oct strong wind driving snow. In descent on 16th tried to go down W Ridge, where thought Swiss had made route to top. Got to col at 6200m. 17th descend back on rightish side of face. On 18th rejoined route of ascent and back at BC on 19th via ABC (lower than BC, on glacier).

  About thrice as high as any face in alpine: BC to top of face 2500m.


expid: DHA184302
peakid: DHA1
year: 1984
route1: S Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Pierre Beghin
sponsor: City of Grenoble Expedition Dhaulagiri I
ascent1: 25th
bcdate: 1984-09-11
smtdate: 1984-10-04
smttime: 1330
accidents: None
campsites:
  LowBC(11/09,3600m),BC(17/10,5000m),C1(20/09,5600m),Biv1(01/10,6400m),Biv2(02/10,7000m),Biv3(03/10,7400m),Smt(04/10)

routememo:
  BC near Japanese 1982 autumn BC site.

  Fixed rope for 4 days from C1 to 6400m biv which reached 1 Oct. Some other members went as high as C1 but no higher. Beghin and Roche made summit push alone together from 1 Oct. Reached top 1:30 pm after 4 hrs climb on very long flat, windy plateau and returned to tent at 7400m. On 5th to 6400m site and 6th to high BC. So from C1 was pure alpine-style in 6 days to top and back to high BC. Most difficult sector was C1 to 1st biv, 6300m vertical rock wall and ten to 7000m is sharp ridge where had to be careful. At 7000m ws 200m-high hard ice and steep rock which was very difficult and needed fixed rope for descent. Above 45 degrees and slabs at altitude again requiring care (200m long traverse here). This last difficulty stopped 7200-7300m and above was snow ridge.

  High hard ice and steep rock which was very difficult and needed fixed rope for descent. Above 45 degree iced slabs at altitudes again requiring care (200m long traverse here). This last difficulty stopped 7200-7300m and above was snow ridge.

  1 Sherpa to C1 once and 4 from low BC to high BC.


expid: DHA284301
peakid: DHA2
year: 1984
route1: NE Ridge from S
nation: France
leaders: Benoit Chamoux
sponsor: Dhaula Ski 1984 to Dhaulagiri II
bcdate: 1984-09-25
smtdate: 1984-10-06
termdate: 1984-10-13
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to lack of acclimatization
accidents: Only acclimatization problems
campsites:
  BC(25/09,3850m),C1(27/09,4800m),C2(29/09,5200m),Biv1(03/10,5500m),Biv2(04/10,5900m),Biv3(05/10,6300m),xxx(06/10,6800m)

routememo:
  BC at Myagdi Khola south of point 3770m & east of point 4996m.

  Down to BC at end Sept and back up again immediately with food. Above C2 only bivs. Reached high point on 6th Oct and down on 7th because went up too fast and also not acclimatized. 3 went up again to C2 on 13th Oct and again down with poor weather and poor morale.

  Not enough snow for skiing: ridge all ice and glacier "icy and down."


expid: PUTH84301
peakid: PUTH
year: 1984
route1: S Ridge-S Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Kaneo Nakamura
sponsor: Mie Japan Expedition 1984
ascent1: 15th
bcdate: 1984-09-12
smtdate: 1984-10-04
smttime: 1605
termdate: 1984-10-07
campsites: BC(12/09,4100m),C1(14/09,4800m),C2(20/09,6100m),C3(28/09,6900m),Smt(04/10)
accidents: Suzuki altitude sickness, evacuated by helicopter with Yamaguchi; nothing else
routememo:
  BC at Kaphe Khola near point.

  Ridge just under summit was most difficult part: 700 vertical meters of mixed snow and rock. Very difficult to find safe piton spots. 2350m of fixed roe from C1 to summit. High altitude and strong winds also made climb not so easy but technically speaking not really so difficult. 9 hours from C3 to summit in strong wind (returned to C3 that night; 6th Oct summiters in BC).


expid: DHA184301
peakid: DHA1
year: 1984
route1: W Face-NW Ridge
nation: Czechoslovakia
leaders: Jiri Novak
sponsor: Czechoslovak Mountaineering Expedition Dhaulagiri 1984
ascent1: 26th
countries: Italy
bcdate: 1984-08-27
smtdate: 1984-10-23
smttime: 1030
campsites:
  BC(27/08,3700m),C1(03/09,4700m),C2(16/09,5700m),C3(22/09,6400m),C4(01/10,6700m),C5(04/10,7600m),Biv(22/10,7900m),Smt(23/10)

routememo:
  C5 on NW Ridge at small saddle on NW Ridge.

  Most difficult technically between C1 and C4 and from C5 to biv - steep ice: snow and ice 60 degrees, rock sometimes overhanging. Biggest problem was dangerous spots between C1 and C2 snow couloir, traverse 200m, and serac area below C4 sending down ice and route lay around seracs. Simon on top at 10:30 am, Stejskal and Jakes at 11:00 am, and these latter two met Silhan descending saying hurry to reach C4 but would wait at biv and cook there. When others returned to biv, he wasn't there. Stejskal looked for Simon and on snowy ridge and snow 100m above biv marks in snow leading to W Face. Other members might have tried for summit but with Simon's death, climb stopped.

  "I think we were very lucky" not to have been hit by avalanche. Oxygen used by frostbitten (fingers) Silhan and Rajtar with serious altitude sickness.

  Simon died in fall during descent from summit to bivouac.

  Lhotse Shar more difficult technically but this route on Dhaulagiri I more dangerous. Impossible to climb W Face of Dhaulagiri in pre-monsoon on left side - on right side of face it is safe but very difficult rock. 

  23 Oct Jakes started 7:00 am, Simon and Stejskal at 8:00 am. Easy route from western summit to main summit but strong wind made moving difficult.

accidents:
  'I think we were very lucky' not to have been hit by avalanche; oxygen used by Silhan (frostbitten fingers) and by Rajtar (serious altitude sickness); Simon fell to death on descent


expid: PUMO84101
peakid: PUMO
year: 1984
route1: E Face-NE Ridge (near USA 1981 Winter rte)
nation: Australia
leaders: Geoffery Bartram
sponsor: Andean Pumori Expedition
ascent1: 18th,19th
countries: USA
bcdate: 1984-04-16
smtdate: 1984-05-05
smttime: 1345
campsites: BC(16/04,5335m),C1(19/04,5880m),C2(22/04,6220m),C3(03/05,6585m),Smt(05-06/05)
accidents: None
routememo:
  BC at right under Kalapattar (where had planned to put it).

  Was to left of American 7 winter 1981 route, avoiding avalanched ice gully. Needed more fixed rope than anticipated and put in about 3000 ft on steep fresh snow over blue ice. Fixed to Col so Narayan Shrestha could climb up to top. Route was not a new route but variation.


expid: AMAD84102
peakid: AMAD
year: 1984
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: James Eisenhard
sponsor: American Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Kalapattar->Mingbo
bcdate: 1984-04-04
smtdate: 1984-04-18
termdate: 1984-04-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to insufficient supplies (rope) and continuing bad weather
campsites: BC(04/04,4570m),ABC(05/04,4900m),C1(09/04,5700m),C2(18/04,6000m),xxx(20/04,6100m)
accidents: None
routememo:
  BC at Mingbo yak pasture (for water).

  On 10th April heavy snowfall (10 inches) which tripled time from ABC to C1; most technical climbing is between C1 and C2; fairly difficult rock and with new snow had to fix 400 ft more rope than would otherwise and which meant later ran short of rope.

  Reached C2 site on 18th April at top of yellow tower but never occupied C2 (at c20,000 ft). Snowed 2-3 inches fresh snow daily after 10th. All together in C1 decided supplies insufficient to succeed in the 10 days required at their rate of progress so far and more urgently had not that much time because had to be back in US at their jobs. Took 2-3 days to get all gear back down to BC. 

  French had gone to S Ridge also although their permit was for S Face - very gentlemanly immediately left because hadn't the equipment and technical competence.


expid: KANG84102
peakid: KANG
year: 1984
route1: N Face (Japanese 1980 rte)
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Nick Banks
sponsor: New Zealand Kangchenjunga Expedition
bcdate: 1984-03-27
smtdate: 1984-05-08
termdate: 1984-05-17
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to storms, avalanching, unstable snow and lack of food supplies
campsites: BC(27/03,5030m),C1(07/04,5945m),C2(01/05,7165m),C3(06/05,7620m),xxx(08/05,8000m)
accidents: Brice fell in icefall and hurt ankle; Banks altitude sickness
routememo:
  BC at Pangpema.

  NZ team of 4 attempted Japanese direct line route on N Face without oxygen and Sherpa support.

  Brice and Ball made 7000 ft push on 14th and when got to C2 found it squashed by avalanche and took 3 hours to dig it out for shelter. Deep snow all the way up had been problems. Because of depth of snow and avalanches conditions and lack of food, turned back on 15th. Just as well because great avalanche and ice blocks fell higher up. Retreated to BC 15th and left BC 17th. No manpower due to Brice and Banks being out of action.

  2 Sherpas to C1 only to clear the camp.


expid: GAUR84101
peakid: GAUR
year: 1984
route1: SW Face (USA 1979 rte)
nation: USA
leaders: Wyman Culbreth
sponsor: Gaurishankar American Expedition 1984
ascent1: 2nd
bcdate: 1984-04-12
smtdate: 1984-05-16
smttime: 1830
termdate: 1984-05-20
campsites: BC(12/04,4900m),C1(19/04,5000m),C2(28/04,5890m),C3(06/05,6650m),Smt(16/05)
routememo:
  BC west of point 5415m
  C1 at Tseringma Glacier.

  Reached summit at 6:30 pm in very good weather including very little wind uniquely. Left C3 at 7:00 am after winds abated and got back to C3 at 2:30 am in pitch dark in slow difficult rappel down to top of from fixed ropes and very cold.

  Took long time to reach BC because difficult jungle and police stopped them for 4 days while checking permit with Kathmandu (LO had not been with Culbreth at first).

  Only one safe route on face as far as 21,800 ft which was made by 1979 expedition. Dangerous rockfall elsewhere. Then to right of 1979 route (not making 1979 traverse to left in 1979). Last part of climb was 70-80 degrees ice and then small crevasse on 60 degrees slope, again ice and rock to top.

  An upper ice field Culbreth fell 45m on 16 May. Ang Kami fell 30m in descent from C3 on 18 May and burned hands on rope.

accidents:
  Culbreth fell 45 m on 16 May; Ang Kami fell 30 m in descent from C3 on 18 May and burned hands on rope


expid: LANG84101
peakid: LANG
year: 1984
route1: Rib on S Face
nation: Canada
leaders: Shaun Parent
sponsor: Canadian Langtang Expedition
bcdate: 1984-03-11
smtdate: 1984-03-31
termdate: 1984-04-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6340m due to heavy snowfall
campsites: BC(11/03,3410m),ABC(18/03,4430m),C1(24/03,5120m),C2(28/03,5890m),C3(30/03,6190m),xxx(31/03,6340m)
routememo:
  BC just west of Langtang village.

  2nd summit bid reached 5550m 14th April by Simpson, Serl, Parent and Herchmer. 2 spent night there but next morning weather bad, avalanche-type snow had fallen and climbers tired and sick.

  Really high winds early in climb, bad weather brought too much snow later in climb which was very dangerous. Night of 26th March Serl and Croft caught out in terrifying electrical storm at 5550m.

  Rib of S Face got difficult so moved to right off rib onto snow face; got to within 1500 ft of completing face and joining SE Ridge. Relatively safe route therefore early hazards are avalanches when heavy snowfall.


  Mackay Johnston & Guest - 13 April 84

  Croft left BC 5 days ago and Guest 3 days ago. Guest at 21,000 ft, so sick from altitude was unable take care of himself and at 17,000 ft lost vision one eye. Croft had retinal hemorrhage.

  Sure others will make a 4th summit attempt when weather permits. Had terrible winds, strong enough to lean into.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 11 April 84

  2 groups made 1st summit bid from C1 16,800 ft:
   
  On 29 March
    Christopher Guest
    Douglas Herchmer
    John Simpson
  On 30 March
    Donald Serl 
    Peter Croft

  Both groups met at high point 20,500 ft on 31 March. Simpson and Serl stopped at 20,800 ft by strong westerly wind and bad weather. Due to bad weather all above returned to C1. Planned another bid 8 April.

accidents:
  2 eye problems (1 retinal hemorrhage, 1 contact lens driven out from altitude & lost sight); 1 man buried himself and psyched himself out


expid: LOBE84101
peakid: LOBE
year: 1984
route1: SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Larry Nielson
ascent1: 4th
bcdate: 1984-04-19
smtdate: 1984-04-25
smttime: 1130
termdate: 1984-04-25
campsites: BC(19/04,5180m),Smt(25/04)
accidents: Torobin had ear infection that upset his balance & kept him from climbing
routememo:
  BC at lake between point 5551m & pt 5245m which appears to be normal site.

  Just below highest of 3 summits is big crevasse and then knife-edged where a fall would be fatal. Nielson reported it was extremely techically difficult with possible break of knife-edge. No evidence of anyone on previous attempts had passed crevasse - hard ice requiring ice axes. Nielson protected Gyaltzen who joined him on top (Gyaltzen had gone high on Everest with Nielson). Route to ridge also dangerous from avalanching.


expid: MAKA84101
peakid: MAKA
year: 1984
route1: W Pillar
nation: USA
leaders: Carlos Buhler
sponsor: American Makalu Expedition
countries: Canada
bcdate: 1984-03-25
smtdate: 1984-05-21
termdate: 1984-06-02
termnote: Abandoned at 8400m due to exhaustion of Congdon and Buhler
campsites: BC(25/03,5400m),C1(28/03,5950m),C2(13/04,6550m),C3(02/05,7315m),C4(17/05,7770m),xxx(21/05,8400m)
accidents: No accidents or frostbite; Sole had retinal hemorrhage
routememo:
  BC at French 1971 ABC site probably.

  Exhaustion of team's strength. Buhler and Congdon exhausted by their summit bid and 2nd bid by Wood and Sole failed 28th May and they cleared mountain on 29th May and descended. Weather changing, deteriorating.

  I felt like a kindergartener on Makalu. "Such difficult route," very steep rock pitches continually for thousands of feet and on top of that, a very difficult vertical rock pillar to C4 with very long day's carry and tremendously difficult final summit day at very high altitude.


  Buhler - 10 June 84

  We were very close but we did not reach the top. Climbed to 27,500 ft on 21 May by Congdon and Buhler - had left BC on 17 May.

  Sharon Wood reached C4 at 25,500 ft 17 May. Would have gone to summit on birthday if she and Charles Sassara had not carried such loads (Sole had carried there 2 days earlier).

  400 ft below summit it began to snow - visibility 200 ft. Slabs covered by deep snow made progress very slow and decided to avoid night out in such conditions. Decided that "if we made the summit we might lose our lives." Had left C4 1:30 am and returned to C4 midnight. Back in BC 24th. C3 on 22nd and C1 on 23rd. Were very exhausted on 22nd then cleared gear on mountain and left BC 2 June.

  Congdon highest can go without oxygen.


  Wood - 9 June 84

  May 26th Sole and Wood to C1
  May 27th Sole and Wood to C2
  May 28th Sole and Wood to C3

  Decided factors against us: 
  - Sole's retinal hemorrhage gave him concern though not a problem.
  - deteriorating weather - valley clouds coming up and snow-pattern seemed to be 
    changing with afternoon storms.
  - other teams had disappeared which affected my enthusiasm. 2 had left May 29,
    went back down.

  Push had been been carrying heavy loads to establish C4 and needed rest instead of going on long summit push stating early next am and all without oxygen. Previous Canada women altitude record about 22,000 ft.


  Sassara - 9 June 84

  Left BC on 25th. Wood and Sole were leaving to go up to clear gear or go for top, not clear which. Sole [went up] despite retinal hemorrhage which he got at 25,000 ft.

  Left BC because of job to go back to and personal obligations. Others should be in KTM by 10th June. Wind was predominant problem - came at 2:00 pm with afternoon snow showers. Never had an avalanche problem.

  Wood, 25, Candian women's altitude record
  BC 17,700 ft
  C1 19,500 ft
  C2 21,500 ft 


  Brian Hall, British Makalu - 27 May 84

  When Hall and party left and C 20th May US-Canada team's high climbers were at their C4 for summit bids; had surmounted last difficulties of ascent, put C4 in usual place and had one long's days push to summit.

  Albi Sole had dropped out of climb with retinal hemorrhage.
  Sharon Wood was going very strong.

  Chive and Sue Davis, trekkers from BC with Hall.
  Plan was for 2 summit teams: 
    1st on 22nd May = Buhler and Congdon, 
    2nd = Wood and Sassara.


  Expedition Report by Carlos Buhler

  From KTM a large dilapidated bus was hired to drive us and our own supplies approximately 300 miles to the village of Hille where our approach walk would begin. In Nepali style, the bus required no fewer than five men to drive, and mainly repair, our "last legs" bus on the journey. We were constantly amazed at the mishaps this five strong bus crew would handle. They created workable parts out of junk as the 12-hour bus ridge turned slowly into 24-hour endurance test. They never lost faith even in the middle of the night, in the middle of nowhere with engine parts and tools spread all over the road.

  We established BC (17,700 ft) where the 1971 French team had put their C1. This saved us very valuable time and energy because we had all our gear and a well stocked home at the foot of the West Ridge. However, it put us in rather bleak campsite, which was very exposed to the mountain weather. In addition, the high altitude slowed physical recovery from exhaustion and sickness.

  Acclimatizing at base camp, we spent several days organizing our gear and setting up a livable kitchen dining shelter from stones and tarps. On March 28 we reconnoitered the mountain's lower rocky slopes. By crossing the Chago glacier in a sweeping contour we avoided losing much altitude on our journey to C1. Without much trouble we found a gulley system leading through the lower rock cliff to the moderate scree slopes above. Within four hours we arrived at the French camps site we would use for Camp 1. There were many signs of the large French expeditions; a dozen leveled tent platforms, bailing wires, stoves, gas cannisters and garbage debris. We left our light loads there and returned to base camp by evening.

  The next four days we spent stocking C1 with the supplies necessary to support two climbers fixing rope above. One approach porter who seemed particularly strong and keen was asked to remain with us in base camp after the others left. His willingness to carry loads over this easy terrain to C1 was a great asset to us. This man became "one of them" almost immediately.

  On the 2nd April, Dwayne and I moved into C1 and set out the following day to begin fixing rope towards C2. The technical climbing began abruptly above our camp site with a 400 ft, 50-degree ice slope. This led to a sharp ridge of snow and ice over the first of two large humps. After dipping, the ridge rose continuously for a km over the second hump at 21,000 ft. Rounding out, it gradually ascended to an overhanging ice cliff at 21,500 ft.

  We took turns acclimatizing to these higher elevations and setting out the seven and eight millimeter rope to aid our travel across this very exposed section.
   
  By 9th April we had anchored all the ropes leading to our second camp and had transported a good stock of food, fuel and climbing equipment there. Originally, the journey with loads along this ice arete took us gasping six hours one way.

  From C2 the ridge took on a much more serious tone. It rose in a perfectly straight steep line 3000 vertical feet to its junction with the massive white granite prow above, the awesome feature which gave the route its name, the West Pillar. On April 13 Sharon and Dwayne moved in C2. Orginally tents were place slightly lower down on the ridge but we soon learned that the wind blasting over the ridge crest made existence there almost unbearable. We moved the camp up to within 20 feet of the overhanging ice cliff and tucked our tents in as close as possible to an adjoining rock wall. Even in this sheltered spot we needed fifty feet of spare 7 millimeter line to anchor the geodesic tents from flattening against us during the night's howling winds.

  Throughout these first few weeks of climbing our BC was experiencing high winds and winter weather as well. The temperature there rose above freezing for about seven hours each day, the time between sunrise out our east over Makalu and sun set to the west over Baruntse. Our Sherpa tent was destroyed after a week of enduring the violent winds.

  Such were the conditions when Dwayne and Sharon set off from C2 on the 14th of April. For the two days they climbed ice faces and loose, delicate, rocky ground. Forcing their way up in bitter cold winds they approached an airy and complex two hundred foot rock traverse onto the South Face. This deviance from the ridge crest avoided several large overhanging rock steps and this allowed further progress upwards. The French had named this 200 ft section the Terrible Traverse due to the extreme nature of the climbing and steep wall it crossed. Albi traded places Dwayne on the 16th and together with Sharon reached the point where this "traverse" began. During this time the three other members not in front were ferrying laods between C1 and C2 with an occasional rest day in BC to enjoy the lower altitude and a square meal.

  Equipment loads were carried and ropes fixed until the happy message was received on the 17th that the trek had reached the original French Base Camp, about a five hour walk down the Barun Glacier. On the morning of the 18th I set out early twoards French Base. My mother and I enjoyed  a wonderful reunion among the huge mounds of ice and glacial debris of the Barun Glacier beneath Makalu's South Face. Two of the hearty trekkers continued upwards, arriving at our BC by midday. Later that afternoon, they returned to the French Camp accompanied by Dwayne, Sharon, Charlie and Ken. On the evening of the 18th our entire team (Albi joined us after a carry to C2 that day) was gathered in the French Base Camp with the trekking party and shared the one and only total respite from the mountain that we were to have in the 68 days we spent actually climbing the ridge.

  The following morning, after a late brunch, the trekkers began their downward journey towards Hille. The six of us, together with one member of the trek who came to do some painting and photography, plodded back up the glacier to our home on the rocky moraine.

  On the morning of the 20th, Charlie and Dwayne left for C2 followed the next day by Albi, Sharon, and myself. We were elated and had gained new energy by coming together, away from the mountain, even though only for 24 hours. With our renewed enthusiasm, we climbed confidently and proficiently.

  The Terrible Traverse was led in a snow storm by Dwayne and Charlie on April 22. Their determination lifted our spirits even more, Albi and Sharon then went ahead onto the 1000 ft jof steep ice runnels and iced over granite slabs that characterized the very challenging climbing above the Terrible Traverse. Averaging about 450 per day they managed to continue climbing through attrocious weather conditions for three long days. On the 27th Charlie and I took over the lead. We carefully maneuvered up the last section of snow covered cracks and slabs and then threaded our way back to and along the knife-edge ice and rock ridge to within one hundred yards of C3. The weather continued to be very unsettled, with snow falling every afternoon for four or five hours. The daily routine of rappelling thousands of feet back to C2 after an exhausting day was a tricky and dangerous ordeal requiring steady concentration. April 30th was lost to unusally high winds but finally, on May 1, Albi and Dwayne succeeded in establishing C3 at 24,200 ft.

  On such a long and involved ridge each camp became a goal in and of itself. Reaching C3 was no exception. The team was full of optimism as the evening radio communication informed everyone that the way was now open as far as the second to last camp. This section had been slow, delicate work and had demanded quite a bit more from us than we had anticipated.

  The carry from C2 to C3 proved to take a shattering eight to ten hours round trip. We immediately became determined to make as few journeys along this section as possible. Sharon, who along with Dwayne, had organized our high altitude food rations, cut the C3 food provisions to an absolute minimum in order that the essential equipment could be more quickly ferried up for the climbing above.

  On May 5 Charlie, Sharon and I bought personal gear to C3 and dug out a platform underneath an ideal wind sculptured shield of ice. With more food still needed. Sharon then descended to C2 while Charlie and I settled in at 24,200 ft readying ourselves for the next day's work. We were painfully aware at this altitude what damage the lack of oxygen does to body. We would have to spend as little time in C3 and above as possible.

  The smooth grayish white pillar of rock above us stretched into the sky for 1300 vertical feet. Here, our upward progress would rely on the skills of gymnastic rock climbing.

  Charlie and I spent the next three days placing fixed up rope 900 ft of steep rock slabs and walls to 25,000 ft. Though the climbing was on smooth, solid granite we wore crampons throughout this terrain, as much of it was clogged with spindrift whelming vastness of the rock wall and space around us. The bone chilling winds and afternoon snow fall took their toll however. By the third day we had frostnipped our fingers and toes, leaving them ultra sensitive to the cold.

  Meanwhile, Albi, Dwayne and Sharon redoubled their efforts to bring up more supplies to C3. On May 10th, after day's rest in C2, Albi and Dwayne took over the lead. Charlie, Sharon and I went down to BC to recuperate our strength. It had been 18 days since any of us had come off the mountain.

  The original strategy had been that Albi and Dwayne would establish the fourth camp before their final rest in BC prior to a summit push. There was an outside chance that if they felt strong and conditions were right, they might even make a summit bid on the 14th of May once they had established C4.

  The 11th and 12th of May were restless days for those of us waiting in BC and extremely taxing for the two higher above on the pillar. The last five hundred feet of rock to C4 necessitated the steepest climbing yet. Albi and Dwayne passed the site of the fifth French camp, marked by a frozen, shredded tent in the snow of a small alcove in the cliff. Above this they climbed an overhanging crack and vertical wall to reach more step slabs and chimneys higher up. With unrelenting determination, at the end of their second day they rounded the last rock corner and gasped their way up a snow covered ice gulley to a small notch. Again with a shredded tent visible, they were aware that they had arrived at the highest French Camp 6 at 25,500 ft. They knew also that it would be the site of our final camp. They fixed the rope to a piton left by the French and began rappeling down late in the afternoon. The rest of the team at BC had been watching them all day with binoculars but had lost sight of them due to heavy, afternoon cloud build up. That evening, at 7:00 pm, it was an optimistic twosome that radioed down from C3 with the long awaited news about reaching C4. They were settled in for the night at C3 after driving themselves near to the limit during the past two days. Nevertheless they were still keen about carrying on the following morning and establishing a livable camp at 25,500 ft before returning to Base for a full period of recovery. Unfortunately it was not to work out this way.

  We learned in the morning radio call that during the night Albi had suffered a severe headache. More seriously, a sudden retinal hemorrhage was obscuring the vision in his right eye. Though Ken assured us that it was not cause for alarm it meant that they would have to descend immediately for a complete diagnosis of Albi's condition. The four of us in BC opted to wait on May 13 for Dwayne and Albi to come down in order that we could discuss the logistics of the summit push together as a group.

  After assessing Albi's condition Ken made the difficult but honest recommendation that he not return to extreme altitude for a minimum of three weeks in order to avoid the possibility of further bleeding in the retina. With four of us left for the remaining work of establishing C4 and making a summit bid we were painfully aware of the position we were in. Two of us would have to support the other two by making a sacrificial carry with very heavy loads to 25,500 ft and dig out of the ice a platform for the last camp. The other two would then run the best odds of reaching this high camp with enough strength to climb the remaining 2300 ft to the summit and return without oxygen. The sacrificial team might having then been down for a rest, have the strength to attempt the summit themselves.

  On May 14 Charlie and Sharon set off on the gruelling four days climb to C4. Allowing Dwayne as full a recovery as each of us had, he and I started up behind them on May 17th. This same evening our final camp was established. After eight solid hours hauling gear up the steep and vertical fixed ropes on the pillar by 2 more hours of oxygen starved work chopping out a tiny ledge, Sharon and Charlie crawled into their tent for the night. They were exhausted and would wait until morning to descend.

  The night of the 18th both teams slept in C2, dividing two double sleeping bags into four and huddling closely together for warmth. In the afternoon of the 20th Dwayne and I arrived at C4, set up the folded tent and began rehydrating for our summit attempt that evening. We dozed fitfully in our sleeping bags for two hours and at 10:30 pm again began tediously melting ice for drinks. At these high altitudes it seems impossible to drink enough fluids to replace what is lost through exertion and heavy breathing in the extremely dry air. Adequate hydration of the body at high altitude is as crucial a condition as any on the mountain.

  At 1:30 am on a moonless night, we began climbing up the 45-degree mixed ice and rock gullies by headlamp. The actual top of the West Pillar route lay 1600 vertical feet above us where it abutted against the Southern Ridge at 27,100 ft. From there the summit lay a further 700 ft up relatively easy ground.

  Just a day break, about 4:30 am, we stopped in the wind trough of a rock outcrop and had a small amount to eat and drink. Several hundred feet above us on the ridge lay a 400 foot, broken, rocky step with no clearly defined route by which to ascend it. With great care we zig-zagged up the delicate and exposed ledges of rock and snow as the sun rose. Its warmth was hidden from us to the east but its rays cast magnificent hues of pink on Everest, Lhotse, Baruntse and the rest of the great Himalayan range spread out beneath us. The day dawned fine and the winds were kind to us. We knew that it the weather held, or chances of reaching the top were very strong.

  By 8:30 am we began the horizontal ice ridge that marked the last crest of the West Pillar. We climbed the section more rapidly than we had expected. By noon, in a sky of broken clouds, we were standing at 27,100 ft on the Southeast Ridge. Only the summits of the five giant mountains of Asia were above us. It had taken us fifty seven days to climb the West Pillar.

  I took a few photographs before we started off for the summit 700 ft higher to the north. Very soon after this we were no longer visible to our companions in BC as the mountain became mantled in cloud. Within an hour, as if in mockery of our efforts to reach the highest point, a heavy grey overcast covered the sky and by 1:30 pm it was snowing. Dwayne and I pressed on, knowing that only a few hours separated us from the summit cornices we could see before the snow had begun to fall. In the growing storm we came to the 50-meter triangular rock wall, an outcrop which bars the way up the last 100 yards to the highest point of Makalu.

  Dwayne crossed a low angle, avalanche threatened snow bowl and led through a gap around to the right of this barrier. With singleness of purpose, we strained our way up the deep, unconsolidated 45-degree snow over rock on the east side of the ridge. At 3:00 pm our visibility was down to about 30 meters and though the winds were low, a layer of new snow was settling on the mountain. Almost in a daze by the lack of oxygen, our minds were conscious enough to realize that with the fresh snow and the lack of visibility our descent would be very complicated. We realized, too, that if were were not able to down climb the 400 ft of broken rock ledges before night fall that we would be forced to bivouac. On Everest I had seen what a night in the open meant for a man above 26,000 ft without oxygen; our chances of survival would be fifty percent.

  At 3:30 pm with the new snow falling heavily and the summit about a hundred yards away, we began to descend. Moving with all posible speed we half climbed half slid down the unconsolidated powder snow, rounded the 50m rock wall and traversed the snow bowl back to the ridge crest. With a drowsiness that must ahve come from a lack of both oxygen and sleep we drove ourselves on in a slow motion trance towards the top of the broken rock ledges. By sunset a dense fog hung heavily in both the sky and our minds but we were finally then descending the delicate rock terraces. Darkness caught us where day break had, near the top of the rock and ice gullies that led down the ridge. With the darkness and cold my body and mind shifted into a familiar ultra low gear that, though extremely slow and mechanical, is methodical and sure. After series of rappels and careful down climbing on the front points of crampons. It was midnight when we reached our tent at C4 and dropped into fitfull sleep.

  In our exhausted state it required two and a half days for Dwayne and I to descend to BC. We arrived there midday on the 24th of May. Although tremendously relieved at having survived the ordeal unscathed, we were unsettled by not having gained that highest cornice of wind blown snow. It was not long after that a talk at BC centered around the possibility of another summit bid. Unfortunately we faced another dilemma. Though Sharon was stronger than ever and was keen to make a another summit attempt, after sixty days in BC or above, Charlie was mentally spent. Due to personal reasons at home he elected to withdraw from the expedition. Ken, our doctor, was also feeling the pressures of having to return to his private practice afer a three month leave and thus, on May 25, they set out for Kathmandu and home.

  Albi, on the other hand, had been resting in BC for eleven days. His eye sight had returned to normal almost immediately. Though the blood vessels of his retina were still somewhat enlarged, all of us shared this same common high altitude symptom. Actually, even a small amount of hemorrhaging is not uncommmon in climbers at high altitudes. Albi had completely recuperated his strength by this time as well. He finally made the decision to propose that he and Sharon make an effort to reach the top.

  Driven by forces that come only after putting so much of oneself into making a dream become reality, Sharon and Albi left for Camp 1 on May 26th. They would continue ascending so long as no complications developed and only while both felt one hundred percent about going on. They ascended the knife-edge ridge to C2 on the 27th but that evening all was not right. The approaching monsoon was changing the weather patterns on the mountain. And both felt some reservations about a possible recurrance of Albi's eye problem. The morning of the 28th they mutually called off their attempt on the summit but continued unselfishly up to C3 in order to bring down the valuable camp equipment that had been left on the mountain.

  Five days later Dwayne and I found the strength to make a final journey to our second camp and brought down the remaining gear. In the late afternoon of June 1st we were all gathered safely back in BC. After sixty eight days the climbing was over.


expid: TAWO84101
peakid: TAWO
year: 1984
route1: E Face
route2: SE Face (to 5500m)
nation: USA
leaders: John Roskelley
sponsor: Amerasia Tawoche Expedition
countries: Japan
bcdate: 1984-04-13
smtdate: 1984-04-25
termnote: Abandoned at 5500m due to rock fall danger, bad weather and lack of food (bought only 10 days food)
othersmts: Sakashita climbed Ama Dablam (AMAD-841-03)
campsites: BC(13/04,5000m),xxx(25/04,5500m)
accidents: None
routememo:
  BC at base of East Face on a lake.

  E Face was lot of grey rock with no steady cracks. Brought 10 days food for alpine ascent and would have taken lot longer and maybe seige-style climb. Lot of rock fall danger and many day's bad weather. 

  Started on 24th April to do alpine-style climb on SE Face instead, but decided route not worth our effort. Went 5500m (the three togather) and Sakashita wanted to go on but Roskelley and Bridwell did not and all quit. Here rotten rock, rock fall and a route not worth bothering with.


expid: CHOY84102
peakid: CHOY
year: 1984
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Steven Berry
sponsor: Bristol Cho Oyu Expedition
countries: New Zealand, USA
approach: Gokyo Valley
bcdate: 1984-04-08
smtdate: 1984-05-16
termdate: 1984-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m because route too difficult
achievment: Terminated just below summit of Ngojumba Kang I
campsites:
  BC(08/04,5200m),C1(15/04,5850m),C2(19/04,6340m),C3(28/04,6740m),C4(06/05,7000m),Biv1(11/05,7330m),Biv2(15/05,7600m),Biv3(16/05,7700m),xxx(16/05,7700m)

routememo:
  BC at Lungsampa Glacier. west of point 6066m
  (not at originally planned site because icefall of Ngojumba Glacier "looked absolutely appalling").

  By C4 time, was just Jackson and Priestman high and they kept going in series of bivies. 3rd biv was highest point but on 17th May pushed along E Ridge to point where "terrific gully system stretching down into Tibet which was completely impossible to pass in any way." Took 3 hours to get there, halfway to top until impass reached. To get around it, would have to descend 2000m into Tibet, so gave up. Top of face was 70-degree ice. Above C3 went up on arrete to avoid ice wall in quite hard climb. At impass point loose rock very steep. Priestman tried to solo round it but no go and got some frostbite in the attempt. Looked very straightforward.

accidents:
  1 Sherpa very ill with kidney stone; Findley and Harrison never acclimatized; Monks didn't acclimatize and became really ill at C4; Bradey ill off and on; Priestman frostbitten toe which he lost a bit of


expid: CHRW84102
peakid: CHRW
year: 1984
route1: SW Face-W Smt
nation: UK
leaders: Dawson Stelfox
sponsor: Irish Nepalese Himalaya Expedition 1984
bcdate: 1984-04-18
smtdate: 1984-05-04
termdate: 1984-05-09
termnote: Abandoned at 6550m due to rockfall, winds and storm
campsites: BC(18/04,3800m),ABC(26/04,4600m),C1(03/05,6000m),xxx(04/05,6550m)
accidents: 2 members bruised by falling stones
routememo:
  BC at 4100m on Kaphe Khola.

  Were on icefield on upper half of face on 4 May when Manson hit by falling stone and all of face above threatened by stone fall and was hard brittle ice that shattered and had melting ice coming down and did not find fresh snow. Were extremely strong winds. Reckoned weather was changing and when went to BC on (5 May) was thunderstorm and then several days heavy snowfall which could have been fatal higher up.


expid: KGUR84101
peakid: KGUR
year: 1984
route1: W Face-NW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Michael John Chapman
sponsor: British Kang Guru Expedition
bcdate: 1984-04-06
smtdate: 1984-04-24
termdate: 1984-04-25
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to fall into crevasse
campsites:
  BC(06/04,3600m),Biv1(11/04,4900m),Biv2(15/04,5400m),Biv3(19/04,5750m),Biv4(21/04,5900m),Biv5(23/04,6075m),xxx(24/04,6200m)

routememo:
  BC   at Meta deserted village
  Biv3 on West Ridge.

  Were on Yugoslav/Japanese normal route as far as 2nd biv. On 17th April climbed to 200m, route section of ice (icefall) which had worsened at top and would be difficult so went over (traversed east for 3 hrs) to S Face. On 17th returned to 2nd biv and on 19th made 2nd traverse and 3rd traverse. On 22nd started through a crevasse field and got gear through it to 5th biv on 23rd. Then Seely fell in crevasse on 24th and took 5 hours get him out; his load jammed and couldn't get it out at all. Seely had all food and stoves. Had planned to biv at 6400m.

  Route not really interesting and hard enough to want to repeat but a good two man alpine-style route [could do it]. Spent lot of time acclimatizing and sitting out snowstorms which brought some avalanching.

  Local people came up to 1st biv and stole camera.

accidents:
  Seely fell 25ft into crevasse on 24th and shattered knee-cap (Seely crawled and Chapman supported him, sometimes dragging on carrier)


expid: AMAD84101
peakid: AMAD
year: 1984
route1: S Face
nation: France
leaders: Michel Pelle
sponsor: French Expedition to Ama Dablam
countries: Switzerland
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1984-04-01
smtdate: 1984-04-05
termdate: 1984-04-07
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to hard steep ice on face, lack of equipment for more difficult S Face route
campsites: BC(01/04,4600m),C1(02/04,5080m),C2(05/04,5800m),xxx(05/04,5800m)
accidents: None
routememo:
  BC at base of East Face on a lake.

  French team started climbing SW Ridge route but had to switch to S Face route (the route listed on their permit) since Americans were already climbing SW Ridge route. French soon quit because they were unprepared for the more difficult route.

  As made C2 learned another expedition arrived for same route so went to BC and discovered Americans had permit for SW Ridge while French actually had S Face but were unprepared for face: had not the equipment for it. Was lot of hard ice on face and it is very steep and dangerous stonefall, so expedition finished.

  Wanted to climb Island Peak, but after 1 day at its BC bad weather caused abandonment of this.


expid: ANN184101
peakid: ANN1
year: 1984
route1: NW Spur-W Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Henri Sigayret
sponsor: First on Peak-without-Name to Annapurna 8091m
countries: Canada
approach: Mristi Khola
bcdate: 1984-03-19
smtdate: 1984-04-23
termdate: 1984-04-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to fatal avalanche at C3
campsites: BC(19/03,4000m),C1(22/03,5000m),C2(25/03,5600m),C3(06/04,6100m),C4(21/04,6400m),xxx(23/04,7200m)
routememo:
  BC 2 hours before North Face BC
  C1 east of Thulobugin Pass in Mristi Khola.

  Attempt to climb nameless 7700m peak along W Ridge route to Annapurna I summit.

  BC to C1 very dangerous (falling seracs daily), but Sigayret asks for 1986 or 1987 permit with safer BC site and route on west side of spur rather that this spring's east side at lower part of route. C1 had to be snow cave in steep section. C2 tents broken by storm and also made cave here. C2 to C3 difficult but not dangerous: rock and ice. C3 tents also destroyed and made cave between C3 and C4 long traverse slightly dangerous and getting to dangerous couloir.

  "Weather not very bad not very good."

  50m above high point of 23 April was wide steep (serac) icefall but this the last difficulty. Above that gentle sloping glacier to ridge. On ridge maybe difficult step midway on ridge to top but this perhaps can be got around on S Face.


  Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 17 April 84

  Annapurna I C3 6150m on 6 April but because of danger of avalanche to this camp on 7th April would 50m higher. 9 April all in BC for rest and planned to start climb 12 April.

accidents:
  2 Sherpas carried 200m by avalanche below C2 but not injured; avalanche swept away C3 tent along with Taglianut and Dumas (bodies not found)


expid: LSHR84101
peakid: LSHR
year: 1984
route1: S Face
nation: Czechoslovakia
leaders: Ivan Galfy
sponsor: Czechoslovak Mountaineering Expedition to Lhotse Shar 1984
ascent1: 3rd,4th
bcdate: 1984-03-31
smtdate: 1984-05-20
smttime: 1130
campsites:
  BC(31/03,5300m),C1(06/04,5850m),C2(13/04,6250m),C3(18/04,6800m),C4(26/04,7150m),C5(07/05,7500m),C6(19/05,7900m),Smt(20-21/05)

routememo:
  BC at site of Yugoslav South Face Lhotse (west side of Lhotse Glacier).

  Original route plan not possible because many avalanches. Actual route was not technically difficult but high altitude made climbing difficult. Most difficult sections were rib above C1 and rock band (80m steep rock) above C2.

accidents:
  Stone hit 20th May summiter and stitches required; 3 frostbite cases (toes and fingers) but will probably lose nothing


expid: DHA184101
peakid: DHA1
year: 1984
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Wolfgang Nairz
sponsor: Dhaulagiri S and N Tirol Himalaya Expedition
countries: Italy, Switzerland
bcdate: 1984-04-03
smtdate: 1984-05-08
termdate: 1984-05-09
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to icefall and many dangerous crevasses
campsites: BC(03/04,4600m),C1(06/04,5650m),C2(17/04,6600m),C3(08/05,7400m),xxx(08/05,7400m)
routememo:
  BC a little below Japanese Winter 1983
  C1 north of NE Col 2/3 of distance on Dhaulagiri map to French pass
  C2 on NE Ridge.

  C2 buried 3-4m snow and completed destroyed when reached crevasse on 27 April. 3 May new C2 established in big cave which was safe but tents damaged by wind. On 3 May ropes fixed to 7000m in attempt to reach C3 site at 7400m, but heavy loads and wind stopped them at 7000m. Messner party should have gone on to top on 9 May but weather too bad. Then decided needed 2 weeks of little more snow and wind to blow existing snow away. Nice route if not too much snow bringing avalanches and even for 3-4 days clear weather, snow very deep making progress slow or impossible.

  No technical problems except between BC to C1 is converging icefall. Between BC and C1 many dangerous crevasses.

  1 Sherpa fell into crevasse but not really injured. Both climbing parties were in avalanches between C1 and C2 but again not hurt.

accidents:
  1 Sherpa fell into crevasse but not really injured; both climbing parties were in avalanches between C1 and C2 but not hurt


expid: EVER84101
peakid: EVER
year: 1984
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Thomas Fitzsimmons
sponsor: American Ultima Thule Expedition
countries: UK
approach: Lhasa->Rongbuk Valley
bcdate: 1984-03-08
smtdate: 1984-05-20
termdate: 1984-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 8600m due to high winds, difficult route conditions
campsites:
  BC(08/03,5100m),C1,C2,C3.ABC,C4(12/04,7000m),C5(25/04,7680m),C6(15/05,8230m),C7(19/05,8540m),xxx(20/05,8600m)

routememo:
  Mike Yaeger, Himalchuli Expedition - 3 Sept 84

  "Ultima Thule" - expedition corp came from Seattle. Left USA in early April '84. By end May 2 Nichols and Fitzsimmons (the leaders) were back in Seattle saying both had gotten sick. Budget was $540,000 for 17 Americans including medical staff of 3-4 doctors aiming research. Took computer to computerize medical data. Had formed a cooperation. Got to 22,000-24,000 ft (6700-7300m) only.


  6 March 84

  Peking (AP) - An American team that tried to scale Mount Everest said Saturday it was a "grand adventure" even though the effort failed when supplies ran out a day's climb short of the 29,028 ft high mountain.

  Members of the Ultima Thule (ultimate in human adventure) expedition from Seattle returned here Saturday and spoke with awe for the world's tallest peak and with satisfaction of the medical knowledge they gathered. The 15-man team included four doctors.

  Expedition leader Tom Fitzsimmons, 34, a govt official in Washington state said lead climbers reached a high point of 28,200 ft on May 20. He said only one more day of climbing was needed to reach the summit and become the first Americans to conquer Everest's northeast ridge, in China's Tibet province, but they had to turn back because oxygen and food ran out.

  Three members of team  had to be evacuated early in the expedition because of illness - including its original leader, Warren Thompson. However, the climb continued smoothly.

  "We had three goals: climb safely, climb high and make the summit, and do medical research. We got two out of three." Fitzsimmons said "As a team, we lost 350 pounds."
   
  Dr. Michael Wiedman, at 56 the oldest in the team, said the group's findings may benefit people who ski and vacation in mountainous areas by examining the cause of altitude sickness and the best remedy for it.

  Yaks and porters helped carry research computers to tents at 21,300 ft, along with electro-encephalographs to measure brain waves and cameras to study eye-retina hemmorhaging.


  From Don Goodman:

  Everest Attempt. Our team included ten climbers: leader Thomas Fitzsimmons, Bob Berg, Jim Frush, Dave Hambly, Kurt Hanson, Ray Nichols, Greg Thompson, Warren Thompson, John Yaeger and me; two climbing doctors: Mike Colpitts and Anton Kakusa; four medical research doctors; Ben Blackett, Rick Foutch, Michael Wiedman and Rich Wohns; biomedical engineer Tom Clement; BC manager Phil Hawkins and photographer Art Wolfe. Three days travel by truck from Lhasa placed us at BC in the Rongbuk valley at 5100m on March 8. This was the same site as that used by the British in the 1920's, a mile from the snout of the Rongbuk Glacier. We spent several days organizing. The next two and half weeks passed quickly as we reconnoitered and established the route to C3 for 21 yaks and seven drivers to transport 4800 pounds of equipment. On March 28 the first yak caravan reached C3, a 5 day round trip along the rocky medial moraine of the East Rongbuk Glacier. Four different climbing teams rotated leads, placing 3000 ft of fixed line and 20 ft of rigid aluminium ladders over the steeper sections to reach the North Col. The task was completed on April 12 so that our six Tibetan porters were restricted by the Chinese Mountaineering Association to carrying only to C4, the difficult task of transporting loads to C5 was left up to the climbing team. While climbing activity was moving at a brisk pace above BC, the medical research team was equally busy setting up and fine tuning our high-tech data gatherings and computing systems. Later the same equipment performed well at heights exceeding 21,000 ft. Camp 5 was established at 7680m on April 25. Five members transported 850 pounds of oxygen and climbing equipment over a ten-day period in early May, which took a toll on their strength. While C5 was being stocked, two climbing teams were working the route from C5 to C6 at 8230m. This was more difficult than anticipated and required 1200 ft of fixed rope. C6 was established on May 15 and occupied by Tom Fitzsimmons and Greg Thompson on May 16. While others carried supplies, these 2 worked the route from C6 to C7, hindered by high winds and steep downsloping rock slabs. C7 was occupied on May 19 at 8540m. On May 20 Fitzsimmons and Thompson made a last gasp summit attempt. Upon reaching the first rock step at 8600m they realized it was futile and made a cautious retreat, reaching the North Col late that evening. On the 21st all camps above C3 were evacuated by support personnel. As per schedule yaks arrived on May 23 to evacuate C3. All personnel and equipment were back at BC on May 25.


