# exped

expid: FANG79301
peakid: FANG
year: 1979
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Arturo Bergamaschi
sponsor: Italian National Expedition to Annapurna Fang
approach: Pokhara->Modi Khola->Annapurna Sanctuary (BC)
bcdate: 1979-09-12
smtdate: 1979-10-02
termdate: 1979-10-10
termnote: Abandoned at 6350m due to unstable snow and unsettled weather
campsites: BC(12/09,4300m),C1(18/09,4950m),C2(26/09,5400m),xxx(02/10,6350m)
accidents: Porter died on return march when slipped & fell 9th Oct
routememo:
  Bergamaschi - 20 Oct 79 

  SE Ridge route was impossible. Very dangerous wall because rotten rock and pitons wouldn't hold. 900m high wall on east side of ridge; 5-4m snow very soft and ridge corniced. SE Ridge impossible at anytime of year weather was not good: snow every day.

  Should have put C3 at 6300m on ridge but couldn't put any camp there - did reach 6350m on ridge and 2 Sherpas slept one night there but no place for tent (Sherpas used biv tent). 3 members [ ]and 2 Sherpas [Ang Pasang and Nga Temba] reached 6350m 1st Sun in Oct.

  1 porter died [in preparation for] return march when slipped and fell 9 Oct [coming up to base camp for loads].


  Cavozzuti - 30 Sept 79

  Cavazutti's returns to KTM after 2 days by foot from Pokhara.

  Collini walks unsteadily. Collini fell from C1 to BC on glacier at 4800m for about 10m, no difficulty in route. Shoulder dislocated, no fracture; slipped when returning with others from carrying food. No others injured; about now yesterday.

  Cavazzuti and colleague tried to reduce dislocation, but not successful so necessary for general anesthesia.

  Reached KTM from BC at 1:00 pm today.

  Collini to hotel - stays till a trekking froup arrives 9 or 10 Oct - treks with them to near BC - group and expedition return to Italy together.

  Perhaps today or tomorrow C3 at about 6300m on ridge.The first camp on ridge - 2 mere camps on ridge will be needed but difficult part is C2 to C3 because of avalanches. This 3:00 am climbers left camp because after 9:00 & 10:00 am hits and avalanches.

  Very difficult mountain; 300m at least of ridge to summit. Morale is high but whether success possible don't know.

  18-26th Sept - 4 or 5 days of snow.

  Modi Khola to BC in Annapurna Sanctuary at 4300-4400m. 5 or 6 camps above - on to SE Ridge of Fang. 

  250 porters to BC. 10 high-altitude Sherpas. Oxygen only medical.
  Leave 3 Sept to PKR. 7-8 days later in BC.
  Summit after 1 month, hope not difficult part of route = SE Ridge, which is very narrow - to reach ridge danger of avalanches.


expid: AMAD79302
peakid: AMAD
year: 1979
route1: W Face
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Peter Hillary
sponsor: New Zealand Ama Dablam Expedition 1979
approach: Lamosangu->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1979-10-15
smtdate: 1979-10-24
termdate: 1979-10-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to fatal accident
othersmts: Attempted Kusum Kanguru (KUSU-793-02)
campsites: BC(15/10,4575m),C1(17/10,5500m),xxx(24/10,6100m)
routememo:
  Peter Hillary, Airport - 27 Oct 79

  Merv English helped get down and Oelz and Messner. O & M put fixed ropes up 19,500-20,000 ft from about 17,000 ft; spent just over 2 days coming down.
   
  Had accident early afternoon on Wednesday. Other 2 pretty shocked but not too bad and at Khunde - Geoff rope burn. Avalanche: a hanging glacier, blocks of ice screaming down.

  Merv had extremely good belay, but couldn't hold Peter Hillary who went 150 ft down, Ken Hyslop and Geoff Gabites came down after Peter and Ken went over bluff right to bottom at 17,000; Austrian put Hyslop in crevasse. All Austrians carried gear up to 17,500 ft and stocked and keep liquids ready. M & O exceptional - very steep ground.

  Planned to spend night 2/3 way up face at left hand ice cliff; about 250 feet below it, avalanche hit 5 secs after heard great crack and saw green ice coming down.

  No frostbite anyone.

  Came from 17,500 ft today; dropped other 2 at Khunde for 1 week. 10 days rest
  "I'm bashed about basically, broken left arm, sprained ankle."
  Got to 17,500 at 6:00 pm.


  Pilots - 26 Oct 79

  2 helpless at 18,000 feet 
  1 dead, 1 serious

  17,200 landed today and dropped 1 Austrian and tents and sleeping bags and from NZ BC.


  Peter Hillary - 18 Aug 79

  Kusum Kangru

  Hope to put BC at 18,500 feet on Kungsamba Glacier, a camp on small plateau 8.9 rope lengths below summit. Peter and 3 others, who arrive 1 or 2 Sept, will climb KK as acclimatization and practice for Ama Dablam, which all will climb.

  Leave KTM about 5 Sept on walk in to Lukla.
  Four KK, 1 sirdar and 1 cook. 


  Peter Hillary - 18 Aug 79

  NZ Ama Dablam Expedition.
  Start climb about 15 Oct, whenever French finish.

  1 sirdar Phu Tenzing of Thami
  1 cook

  Approach via Pangboche and Mingbo village, with BC at Mingmo airstrip where Americans had their BC Spr 1979 at about 14,500-15000 feet.

  Up West Face, 4000 feet right.
  C1 or ABC at about 17,800 feet, 200 feet below base of West Face
  Probably 2 more camps above BC.
  Hope to climb in 3-5 days alpine-style last part from top camp


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 4 Feb 79

  Hillary's expedition can begin climbing Ama Dablam after 15 Oct, or when Coudray's expedition returns earlier to KTM. As soon as Coudray's letter received French embassy, permit will be granted, Sharma believes.


  Report from Peter Hillary - 7 Nov 79

  On the evening of 22nd of October we left base camp and proceeded to our high camp. That night we stretched and climbed on the West Face of Mt Ama Dablam. We climbed on into the day of the 23rd and set up our camp on a very steep snow arete. The following day we proceeded to the left-hand ice cliff where we planned to spend our second night. It was just a short of this objective that the accident occured. A huge ice avalanche engulfed our party resulting in the death of Ken Hyslop and the miraculous survival of the other three members who sustained a variety of injuries. An epic descent followed by the remaining three injured members to the high camps from where we were evacuated by helicopter.

  Ken's body was buried in a crevasse at the bottom of the face by members of the Austrian Ama Dablam expedition. The liaison officer, Ram Shrestha, according to Wolfgang Nairz, was loathe to assist or act in anyway until he was forced to by the Austrians, during the accident. I am very disappointed in the liaison officer's performance.

  As this is surely an area, an emergency where the liaison officer should be of tremendous assistance. Perhaps in the future it would it would be a good idea if liaison officer were briefed in how to cope with emergency procedures and contacting other climbing expeditions in the area for their assistance. Prior to the accident the liaison officer left base camp for four days, resting down valley. The National Park has radio which could will be used to help in such emergencies.

accidents:
  Peter Hillary seriously injured of the three was hospitalized in KTM with broken forearm, badly sprained ankle and cracked rib; Geoff bad rope burn; Hyslop killed by avalanche


expid: NUPT79301
peakid: NUPT
year: 1979
route1: N Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Doug Scott
sponsor: British West Ridge Everest Expedition
ascent1: 3rd
countries: France, USA
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1979-09-27
smtdate: 1979-10-20
smttime: 1430
termdate: 1979-10-26
othersmts: Attempted Kusum Kanguru (KUSU-793-01) and Everest (EVER-793-03)
campsites: BC(27/09,5500m),C1(6100m),C2(6400m),Biv1(6700m),Biv2(7300m),Smt(20/10)
routememo:
  Everest not attempted officially (actually Bettembourg went up Lhotse Face). Kusum Kanguru attempted unsuccessfully.


  Bettembourg - 31 Oct 79

  Before climbing Nuptse, Bettembourg went alone to Everest for 3 days carrying 25 kg food and equipment. Reached Yellow Band on Lhotse Face at about 7400m - wasn't yet well acclimatized.


  Doug Scott, et al - 30 Oct 79

  "A bit late on Nuptse, I guess." Deaths on Everest a bit off-putting and only Mike knew Kathy [Genet] so took her down.

  Kangtega packed up earlier then expected so might they should join us on Nuptse with no one acclimatized for Everest.

  So wanted 4 on Nuptse and waited for permission. When didn't get permission Rouse and Hall went anyway. Climbed Nuptse and then Icefall so bad wouldn't think of going through it again. Huge crater where could see ice moving and hear it.

  Nuptse BC 27 Sept and went through Icefall once to have recce and making same carry - and then up again after Everest deaths and wait for permit on 14 Oct couple days acclimatizing at 22,000 feet at Everest C2.

  Attacked mountain on 17th and got to top on 20th. Icefall at bottom and 200-250 feet of ropes over 5 little icefalls. Slightly left of rib tried last year but upper part same. 2 nights in snow cave at 7000m, fixed bit of rope above it after first. Another snow cave at 7500m on 19th and on 20th to top and back to higher cave. That night had storm and worried about snow higher on mountain threatening route (it didn't). Did not go up 10 feet very dangerous snow that made highest point on Nuptse. It would have given way and may well not be there now.

  Doug and Georges went to Lo Lha just after Mike took Kathy down. Brian slight frostnip so wouldn't have gone on for fear of real frostbite. All cold feet at BC which couldn't get warm.

  "What ever drove us to climb was satisfied by Nuptse."

  If go on West Ridge and if storm made ridge dangerous, couldn't have gone down American route to Cwm because Icefall's state.


  Carrington (Kangtega) - 21 Oct 79

  Doug Scott on 12th left.
  Khumjung to BC; not decided on route or mountain


  Jim Jerram - 6 Oct 79

  Mike Covington has not acclimatized and has left expedition; will stay in Khumbu with his wife.

  Rob Carrington has split with other 2 in his Kangtega [team], so only 2 from his expedition will join Scott on Everest.


  Doug Scott - 28 Aug 70

  Routes on Everest: allowed only 2 alternative routes and have chosen West Ridge or South Pillar. West Ridge appeals because will be entirely own route (no Germans or Poles also on it) but will have a look when on Nuptse.

  Probably not permitted to split team and do 2 routes.


  Doug Scott - 23 Aug 79

  Want to see if you can't hike up Everest. After 6 weeks on Kangchenjunga were fully acclimatized. Find a way to go up it completely Alpine: West Ridge you can do it but face means Icefall and fixed ropes and so on.

  Will go to Nuptse and see what looks like best route or routes in present conditions. Doing what one does in Alps: start with small peak, Kusum Kanguru, and then Nuptse and Everest. No commitments to papers, etc and one completely free to climb what and when we like.

  Kusum Kanguru: route when get these and see; 3 on this: Bettembourg, Covington and Scott.

  Nuptse: North Ridge as before - same 3 (while Kangtega traverse being done).

  Everest: 3 + Carrington, Rouse and Hall from Kangtega.

  No oxygen at all and no Sherpas above BC.

  Porters leave 25 Aug and members with family mid next week. 


  Scott - May 79

  5-20 Sept Kusum Kanguru

  20 Sept-20 Oct Nuptse while others arrive Kangtega
  About 15 Oct Everest alpine-style - Nuptse team and Kangtega trio

  5 Oct = Everest rendezvous date says Kangtega team  Sept 79.


  Letter from Georges Bettembourg, Everest BC - 23 Oct 79

  Alan Rouse, Brian Hall, Doug Scott and Georges Bettembourg reached the summit of Nuptse on the 20th of October at 2 pm, via the North Face from the Western Cwm, alpine style (no oxygen, no Sherpa, no fixed camp) in 6 days round trip from C2 of Everest.

  Everyone safe and sound in BC after an incredibly difficult descent through the icefall. Since the Germans and Poles left the area, the ice fall changed dramatically. None of their fixed equipment could be used or remained in difficult parties and the 4 of us had to aid climb up and rappel down through the chaos of ice to BC during all day yesterday (22nd).

  The 4 of us are looking forward to climb Everest, via the West Ridge. Doug and I have been to the Lho La to look at the route already. It looks fine in fair shape and the weather here is fantastic.

  I have not seen any press release from France about Kusum Kanguru at the date of the 4 of October. Why?

  Although low in elevation it [Kusum Kanguru] is a hard mountain to climb. Just in case can you forward. On the summit, Georges Bettembourg and Doug Scott the 16th of September at 5 pm via the North Ridge, alpine style, in 5 days (Mike Covington was with us up to 6000m elevation, then got sick and could not continue to the top). The climb constitutes one of the most technical and exposed climb Doug and I ever did. 


  Letter from Doug Scott - 23rd Sept 79

  Good morning from Khumjung. You may have heard that we went on the North Buttress of Kusum Kanguru in 3 days of quite hard alpine climbing - snow and rock - and that Georges and me reached the top of the "North" summit of KK on 16th Sept. About yards away was a higher point (20 feet higher) which we did not visit as it was 5:00 pm. Snowing and monsoon snow had been blown in to fantastically beautiful but somewhat dangerous cornices. There were top ropes, pegs and bolts poking up out of the snow at intervals right up to about 6000m. Incredible where they put their bolts - even on rocking stones you would not trust sitting on. Maybe conditions were different for them. Mike Covington made it up to 600 feet of the top but stopped (awaited our return as he had not acclimatized).

  Off to Everest BC tomorrow. 


expid: ANN379301
peakid: ANN3
year: 1979
route1: W Face-NW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Ron Rutland
sponsor: Cumbrian Himalayan Expedition
ascent1: 5th
approach: Pokhara->Modi Khola->Annapurna Sanctuary (BC)
bcdate: 1979-10-14
smtdate: 1979-11-06
campsites:
  BC(14/10,3800m),C1(16/10,4575m),C2(20/10,5200m),C3(22/10,5800m),Biv(26/10),Biv(30/10,6700m),Smt(06/11)

routememo:
  Ron Rutland - 19 Nov 79

  BC below Bonington BC at about 12,500 feet - then went past point 12,430 on Harka Gurung map.

  All 6 went to C3 on 22 Oct and after that all moved up together and used bivs only after that. 4 reached 22,000 feet on 1 Nov (Whitham dropped out to BC because not acclimatizatizing [and Deakin dropped out earlier for same reason]). At 22,000 feet bivs = snowholes - progress slow because snow conditions bad didn't have enough food for 4 to summit, so on 1 Nov two strongest stayed up and Ron Rutland and Penman went down to C3.

  Linda Rutland and Whittock rested at 22,000 feet to rest and acclimatize one day. Moved off on up on 3rd - biv 100 feet from summit on 5th (didn't realise were so close as was dark when stopped climbing). Arrived C3 10 Nov: slow descent because wind blew snow into snowholes and obliterated track. No fixed ropes on this high section of mountain and not eating well because no appetizing food with summiters.

  Route not SE Ridge (with Peter's accident ,delayed a week waiting for his helicopter); actually on SW Face to NW Ridge because of this time loss because by 1st week of November had to be on summit and SE Ridge much longer route. In fact later stage of climb saw avalanche come down ridge so wasn't as safe as imagined. Ridge also averted by Americans last year as too problematical for small expedition.

  At first tried to go through glacier above point 12,430 but huge crevasses required ladders expedition didn't have; switched to a rock buttress on SW Face which Americans climbed and used same of their ropes above C3 at 19,000 feet.

  After rock buttress, Americans and British diverged (at about 20,000 feet); British went straight onto West Ridge while Americans went off right up a couloir onto ridge for the night, more directly closer to summit.

  Summiters both have frost-nipped toes from biv of 5th night; nothing to eat and drink then having left equipment at previous biv at top of col at 23,000 feet at start of ridge having emerged from face.


  Ron Rutland - 4 Oct 79

  BC about 14,000 feet (with LO lower probably), maybe really just dump. Maybe ABC with tents or snowholes, no idea how high really but guess around 20,000 feet.

  Want to back end Nov in KTM so no more then 5 weeks on mountain.
  No Sherpas on mountain; one at LO's base only.
  Route = SE Ridge from west side of ridge; approach march via Modi Khola to Annapurna Sanctuary.

   
  Melling - 2 Oct 79

  Route= SE Ridge from west side of ridge.
  Approach route up Modi Khola into Sanctuary.

  3 members leave 4th and rest on 7th by bus to Pokhara. 1st party will go ahead and make BC.

  BC site and altitude not decided but probably on East Annapurna glacier.
  No fixed camps, no Sherpas, no oxygen; a few fixed ropes perhaps, depend on what we came across.

  3-4 weeks on the mountain, but this too depends on what we find.


expid: KTEG79301
peakid: KTEG
year: 1979
route1: NE Ridge (to 6250m)
route2: N Ridge (to 5800m)
nation: UK
leaders: Rab Carrington
sponsor: British Kang Taiga Expedition 1979
approach: Lamosangu->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1979-09-20
smtdate: 1979-09-24
termdate: 1979-10-04
termnote: Abandoned at 6250m due to bad weather and lack of time
campsites: BC(27/09),xxx(24/09,6250m)
routememo:
  BC 20th Sept - 2 attempts on mountain by 2 different ways by all 3 members together.

  1) NE Ridge: from Omaga valley to BC at 16,200 feet at foot of Omaga Glacier to pass at 5786m to NE Ridge. 1-1/2 days to pass, then 2nd night short distance above pass on ridge. Then it snowed and descended via pass of 5680m into head of Mingbo valley to north of this 2nd pass and back to BC. This was 24/26 Sept.  

  2) 29 Sept to North Ridge on southwest corner of Omaga Glacier. Biv less than about 19,000 feet or so in 2 hours climbing, weather bad (snow) and retreated bad weather till 5th Oct and then were to go to West Cwm. So no time for more attempts on Kangtega, so abandoned Kangtega in favour of Everest.

  4th actually left BC and Carrington decided not to go to Everest - may be didn't have Everest fever.

  Think 2nd route feasible and could have finished it given spell of good weather. 

  Carrington left Khumjung 13 Oct and arrived KTM with wife on foot 20 Oct.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Ministry of Tourism - 7 Oct 79

  Abandoned after reaching 20,500 feet on 24 Sept, no reason given. LO in KTM 6 Oct. Carrington to arrive 8 Oct.


  Jim Jerram - 6 Oct 79

  Carrington's expedition failed on Kangtega. He and other 2 split up. 
  Carrington now in Khumjung - will stay a week before coming out to KTM. Other 2 will join Scott on Everest.


  Hall & Carrington - 2 Sept 79

  BC Thyangboche - route northwest or northeast sides hoping to avoid repeating Japanese '79 spr route.

  Leave KTM 5 Sept - stay at Khumjung with day walks and find BC. After 2 weeks go straight to mountain and finish climb by end Sept, then rest for 5 Oct Everest BC rendezvous.
  No Sherpas above BC
  No oxygen


expid: GAUR79301
peakid: GAUR
year: 1979
route1: SW Ridge-S Smt
nation: UK
leaders: Peter Boardman
sponsor: British Gaurishankar Expedition
countries: Nepal, Switzerland
approach: Barabise->Charikot->Lamobagar->Bhote Kosi->Rongshar Gorge
bcdate: 1979-10-08
smtdate: 1979-11-09
smttime: 0900
termdate: 1979-11-13
termnote: Reached S Summit of Gaurishankar only; ridge to main summit too long
othersmts: Summited Gaurishankar South (GAUS-793-01)
campsites:
  BC(08/10,4800m),ABC(18/10,5300m),C1(24/10,5500m),C1(24/10,5500m),C2(29/10,6037m),C3(03/11,6100m),Biv(08/11,6800m),S-Smt(09/11,7010m)

routememo:
  Peter Boardman - 23 Nov 79

  3-4 days more to Main summit from South Summit. Would need another camp. Were high winds and no food left and 1 man's accident.


  Peter Boardman - 21 Sept 79

  Route = SW Ridge to South Summit

  One good camp at bottom at perhaps 19,500 ft and then "go for it" alpine-style.

  Leave Tuesday to Barabise. Trek up Bhote Kosi to Lamobagar to Hum trekking along border to BC site where Americans were last spring.

  Medical oxygen only, if any.
   
  Arrive BC 11-12 days after KTM departure with 30-40 porters.

  3-4 weeks acclimatizing and then climbing fast. 2000-3000 ft of rope with expedition but hope not to use it.

  Pemba Lama only Sherpa above BC.


  Letter from Peter BC - 11 Nov 1979

  Just arrived back here after an exciting trip up the West Ridge.

  We climbed it "capsule" starting off with food for four for 20 days on the 18th, pulling up our ropes three times and fixing above the next camp then finally going for it. Tim joing us just as we pulled up the ropes below C1, so the food did not last as long as we'd planned. In fact, haven't eaten much during the past days. The descent has taken us 3 days. Pemba, Tim Guy and I reached the top. John stayed at C3 after a fall of 200 ft on the 5th Nov (the wind blew him off a stance - I held him on 8 mil fixed rope, good job I had thick gloves on) which smashed his wrist and damaged his knee. Because of this we did not try for the main summit; also we had no food left (it would have taken us quite a few days more) or energy. We were satisfied with the unclimbed South Summit and with the West Ridge. Very very long and exciting cornices. We had only 5 dead men, 15 ropes, 25 pegs 15 ice pegs and 50 music cassettes.


  Letter from BC by Peter Boardman - 11 Nov 1979 

  BC 11th Nov expedition successful and all safe. First ascent of Tseringma 7010m south summit of Gaurishankar made by Boardman Leach Neithardt and Pemba Lamba at 9:00 hours.

  9th Nov after prolonged 23 day struggle up very difficult west ridge. Barry missed summit push owing to arm and knee injuries.


  Letter from Peter Boardman - 18th Oct 1979

  The reason why I'm here and not at Base Camp or higher on the mountain is because Tim is with me. Tim, despite his record as a brilliant alpinist, has had problems acclimatizing. I came down with him and the cook a couple days ago. I'm going back up to join the lads on the including tomorrow and it is probable that the cook and Tim will stay here. (On the hill Pemba Lama Guy John and myself spent 5 days stocking secure camp at the foot of the West Ridge.)


  The British-Nepalese Gauri Shankar Expedition 1979, by Peter Boardman

  The Plan

  We decided to mount a lightweight expedition taking a minimum of equipment. We wanted to include a Sherpa in our team, so that the spirit of the "British-Nepalese" cooperative effort could be maintained. Pemba (who's father is a lama) could help us by observing the various Buddhist rituals of incense and prayer flags at BC and help us to climb the mountain in a manner as sensitive and respectfull as possible to its religious significance.

  The border between Nepal and Chinese Tibet runs somewhere through the mountain and, naturally enough, the Nepalese authoorities asked us to stay well south of this line in our attempt. We were allowed to choose either the South Ridge or the West Ridge of the South Summit, both which look very difficult. We chose to attempt the West Ridge because its is slightly shorter, a classic line of corniced ridge 4 kms long.

  Narrative

  The three British members flew to KTM on the 18th Sept. There we were ably assisted by Mike Cheney and Mr Singh of the Sherpa Cooperative Trekking (P) Ltd, who provided us with an excellent staff: Pemba Lama as Sirdar, Dawa as Cook, Ang Rinzi as kitchen boy and Jetha as mail-runner. We also employed Pemba Sherpa as wood collector. All this staff, without exception, worked hard and capably. The expedition was also joined by a liaison officer, sub-inspector Sankar Pradhan of the Nepalese Police.

  Guy Neithardt was delayed but we eventually left KTM on 29th. The approach march took 10 days, via Barahbhise, Charikot and Lamobagar. We hired 48 porters, who carried our equipment to BC which we reached on the 8th Oct. The final 2 days involved a 3000m height gain which we rushed in case bad weather and snow high up turned back our porters.

  Unfortunately, because of this Tim Leach failed to acclimatize during the first week at BC and had to descend to a camp below the treeline on the 16 Oct. Fortunately, he subsequently acclimatized well and rejoined the climb, just as we were pulling the ropes up below Camp One on the 28th October.

  Between the 10th and the 18th Oct. Boardman, Barry, Neithardt and Pemba Lamba carried loads up to ABC at 5300m at the foot of the West Ridge in unpleasant weather. Advance Camp was stocked with 20 days food for four people.

  We then made a "capsule" style of ascent. Without redescent for further provisions, we fixed our 17 ropes between camps, pulling up the ropes as we moved up and stringing them out again. Leach's rejoining the effort stretched the food supplies but increased the climbing strength. The climb took us 23 days. We were lightly equipped - 3 lightweight tents, 30 karabiners, 25 rock pegs and 15 ice screws.

  The initial obstacle was a 300m deep gap in the ridge below two steep rock and ice towers. On the top of the second tower we established Camp One at 5500m on the 24th Oct. The first stage of the West Ridge rises to a pointed summit at 6037m. After complicated route finding and Grade III and IV rock and mixed climbing, Camp 2 was perched apprehensively on the Summit.

  From C2 on point 6037m the West Ridge runs almost horizontally for a km before rising again. Beyond C2 the climbing was frequently nerve wracking - threading between large double cornices. We could usually manage to climb between 4 and 6 pitches a day. On the 3rd Nov Camp 3, 6100m was established behind a distinctive 20m high rock tower just below where the ridge began to steepen again.

  It was a relief to climb stable mixed rock and ice pitches and to start gaining height again. However, strong winds were beginning to blow across the ridge - their force increasing every day. At 10:30 am on the 5th Nov Barry had led a steep pitch, was clipping into his belay anchor when a sudden freak gust of wind knocked him off the ridge. He had untied from the main climbing rope when it ran out, but fortunately, was still clipped into the 8 mil. non-stretch fixed line. he fell 60m down the north side before the rope arrested his fall. Luckily the line snagged on the arete before the fall came fully onto Boardman, who was belaying. Barry fell over two steep rock barriers and broke his left wrist, damaged his left knee and was mildly concussed. The other three members came up and he was helped down to C2. On the 6th Nov, after careful discussion and encouragement from Barry, it was decided to continue with the climb. Meanwhile, Barry waited at C2 - stoically refusing to eat our dwindling food supplies.

  The ridge rose steeply to a height of 6500m where another section of horizontal snow-mushroomed and snow-pinnacled ridge started again. The dangers of this section were highlighted when a large cornice collapsed moments after Leach had stepped off it. We had pulled up all the ropes used below Camp 2 and by the 7th Nov had refixed most of them for the fourth and last time.

  On the morning of the 8th Nov, Boardman, Leach, Neithardt and Pemba Lama set out for the summit, carrying a stove but no bivouac equipment and hoping to reach the summit that day. We were over-optimistic. The South Summit rises out of a large snow plateau at 6800m but to reach this plateau we had to cross a 30m deep gash in the ridge and then climb a steep headwall of rock and water ice. During that day we climbed 9 pitches - the last three in darkness. However, at 7:30 pm the angle eased as we reached seracs just below the edge of the plateau and bivouacked. It was a windy, intensely cold night and nobody slept well - some not at all.

  On the 9th Nov we set out for the summit after a few sips of warm water (we had left out last two meals at C2). Although numbed by an unpleasant night, it was an exhilarating change after 20 days on the narrow ridge below us to walk up the gently angled wide open slopes of the South Summit plateau and the weather was clear, despite occasional stinging spindrift.

  We reached the summit at 9:00 am and enjoyed fine views in all directions from Shisha Pangma to Everest. We stood 1m below the topmost point, out of respect to Gauri and Tseringma and stayed there 15 minutes, before the cold drove us down. In the early stages of the expedition we had contemplated the traverse along the ridge to the Northern Summit but Barry's accident, a lack of provisions, equipment and energy decided us against the idea - the traverse looked as if it would take 3 to 4 more days.

  The descent of the route took three days and we had no food for the last two. Barry managed the long traverse and abseils without problems, but with some pain. Fortunately, there had been no heavy snow falls whilst we were high on the route.

  The walk out from the BC took 6 days and we arrived in KTM on the 21st Nov and in Europe on the 25th.

  Conclusion

  The Northern and Eastern Tibetan sides of the mountain are at the moment out of bounds and might offer easier routes. There are certainly no straight forward ways up Gauri Shankar from the Nepalese side. The West Ridge is long and serious. We feel happy with the "capsule" style of our ascent - it suited our own abilities, the route and the equipment we took with us and was an exciting adventure on a formidable and beautiful mountain.


expid: AMAD79301
peakid: AMAD
year: 1979
route1: N Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Raymond Renaud
sponsor: Expedition of the Guides of Briancon to the Himalaya-Ama Dablam
ascent1: 5th-8th
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1979-09-25
smtdate: 1979-10-21
termdate: 1979-10-25
campsites: BC(25/09,5100m),C1(01/10,5850m),C2(08/10,6000m),C3(15/10,6400m),Smt(21-24/10)
routememo:
  Renaud - 6 Nov 79

  Summiters were as follows: 

  21 Oct 
    Chand, GE Estienne, Y Estienne, Renaud, Salomez, Soleymieux, Manificat

  22 Oct 
    Norbu Jangbu, Jangbu, Lhakpa Norbu

  23 Oct 
    Chaud, M Drapier, Renaud, Audoubert, Belli, Charbonnel, Collot

  24 Oct 
    Renaud, Bovero, Charbonnel

  Route was North Ridge, route attempted in 1959 by British, same route except just above BC. Found same British rope and piton. Other BC was at 5100m; other camp, altitudes and all camp dates from Ministry of Tourism correct. BC on Dablam glacier northeast of mountain and C1 at Col.

  Difficult snow conditions: snow was loose and got new snow.
  Ridge difficult, but not dangerous.
  No accidents, no avalanching (on ridge).

  Mrs Ardisson, Mrs Drapier, J Reynaud, Segal and Mrs Soleymieux did not go above BC.


  Renaud - 16 Sept 79

  One helicopter with 2 members flew to Lukla today and rest of members go to Lukla by helicopters tomorrow

  2nd party leave France 1 Oct and arrive KTM 2 or 3 Oct. Leader will be Coudray if he can come after K2, or Dr. Magnificat (Makalu II summiter autumn 1978). Fly to Lukla - same route, on Ama Dablam as 1st group. 

  Renaud will remain in Nepal for trekking party and Dhaulagiri I 1980 arrangements. Will be in Nepal until 2nd party has finished.


  Renaud & Segal - 3 Sept 79

  Walking in to Khumbu when baggage arrives from Bangkok.
  Climbing route a North Ridge same as 1959 Autumn.

  BC above Dingboche Pangboche from west side to north at about 4600m+. 3 camps above BC. How much time on mountain not really known, depending on snow conditions, etc. Have 3 months food. 15-20 days probably BC.

  5 Sherpas above BC.
  Oxygen for medical use.

  1st expedition to Himalayas by guides for Briancon in 5 Alps 100 km from Grenoble.


expid: AMAD79303
peakid: AMAD
year: 1979
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Wolfgang Nairz
sponsor: Austrian Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Italy
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1979-10-22
smtdate: 1979-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to using most of equipment in assisting New Zealanders after fatal avalanche
campsites: BC(22/10,4680m),ABC(26/10,5400m),xxx(24/10,6000m)
routememo:
  Messner & Oelz - 7 Nov 79

  Used up most of fixed ropes and some time in helping New Zealanders. Reached high point 6000m three times, first time 24 Oct going up in case New Zealanders were continuing up after accident and thus to help New Zealanders. All five reached this point at least once.

  Had thought Americans left lot of fixed rope last spring but found none - were on same route.

  No fixed camps above 5400m. 


  Bobby Chettri - 25 Oct 79

  Letter of 21 Oct from Nairz says BC to be established 22 Oct.
  Asks for Puma to SYB on 7 Nov to bring them back to KTM.


  Nairz, Messner & Oelz - 14 Oct 79

  Route = same as 1st two ascents except in lower part will go to South Ridge from Mingbo.

  Alpine style, no Sherpas above BC unless Datti goes as member; maybe one camp.
  2 weeks on mountain; have no more time.


expid: PUTH79301
peakid: PUTH
year: 1979
route1: S Ridge-S Face
nation: W Germany
leaders: Sigi Hupfauer, Klaus-Peter Schubert
sponsor: DAV Berg & Skischule Expedition to Putha Hiunchuli
ascent1: 8th-12th
countries: Denmark, Italy
approach: Pokhara->Gurjakani->Budzunge La->Kaphe Khola (BC)
bcdate: 1979-10-07
smtdate: 1979-10-18
campsites: BC(07/10,4400m),C1(11/10,4800m),C2(16/10,5600m),C3(17/10,6300m),Smt(18-20/10,03,07/11)
routememo:
  Schubert - 17 Nov 79

  2nd party used camps and ropes of 1st party.

  1st summit team of 2nd party (Hilber, Schnaider and Wanninger) went up on 2nd Nov but in storm that afternoon made snowhole and bivouacced 20m below summit  - summit itself on 3rd Nov.

  2nd summit team (Gerschner, Schubert, Ang Dorje and Nawang Dorje Sherpas) went to top from C3 on 7th and back to C3 same (very long) day.

  No accidents, frostbite or serious illness. Schubert found climbing "a little" more difficult with loss of toes from frostbite on Annapurna II.


  Hupfauer - 30 Oct 79

  Ministry's report of 26 Oct re summiters of 1st party correct, also their information on camps. Route was South Ridge to South Face.

  2nd party using 1st group's tents and fixed ropes, but getting colder now. Should reach summit 8-10 Nov.


  S. Hupfauer - 25 Sept 79

  Same route as '78 autumn - 45 grade in mid-section 
  3 camps 
  BC 4400m
  C1 4800m fixed rope
  C2 5600m 
  Small summit Dome 6500m - 400m fixed rope on steep
  C3 6200m

  No good place for a C4. Also not so many Sherpas.
  Approach march via Kaphe Khola from Pokhara (via Gurjakani & Budzunge), 12 days with 100 porters.

  Pit Schubert leads 2nd group arriving KTM 7 Oct and leave KTM 10 Oct.

  Hupfauer group returns to KTM 30 Oct and leaves 3 Nov.
  Arrive BC 7 Oct and finish climbing 29 Oct at latest.
  No oxygen except med.
  5 Sherpas above BC including sirdar Ang Temba from Lukla, 32 years old.


expid: TUKU79301
peakid: TUKU
year: 1979
route1: N Face-Junction Peak-Tukuche W Summit
nation: France
leaders: Rene Collet
sponsor: Collet Team to Tukuche
bcdate: 1979-10-14
smtdate: 1979-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at W Smt since route to main summit too dangerous
campsites: BC(14/10,4900m),C1(16/10,5450m),W-Smt(22/10)
routememo:
  Collet - 2 Nov 79

  Very dangerous from Junction Peak to Main Peak, so went to West Peak instead. Perhaps possible via SW Ridge from French Pass across glacier between Dhaulagiri I and Tukuche. This route never climbed.

  Swiss went to Junction Peak and then West Peak and not to Main Peak.

  Most difficult is to climb Brenva Face (North Face) to Junction Peak. Needed fixed rope because over 60 degrees. 

  Another route is from 300m above Tukuche Village via South Ridge - this is a long route.

  Simon became ill from altitude and could not go to summit.
  No accidents


  Mollard & Collet - 30 Sept 79

  Route = North Ridge
  Approach across Dhampas Pass and onto Glacier north of Tukuche and onto West-East Ridge north of Tukuche to North Ridge of Tukuche
  BC 5600m. Only 1 high camp at about 6100m.
  Arrived 29 Sept; leave 2 Oct by bus to Pokhara; leave Pokhara 2 Oct with 30-5 porters and reach BC 14-15 Oct.
  10-14 days climbing
  3 Sherpas above BC. Ogeba [Ajiwa] Sherpa as sirdar
  Med. oxygen only


expid: MAK279301
peakid: MAK2
year: 1979
route1: NW Ridge (to 7420m)
route2: E Ridge
nation: W Germany
leaders: Gerhard Lenser
sponsor: German Makalu Expedition 1979
ascent2: 4th-7th
countries: Switzerland, USA
bcdate: 1979-09-08
smtdate: 1979-10-09
othersmts: Minor peaks W of Chago Glacier
campsites:
  BC(08/09,4700m),ABC(17/09,5300m),C1(17/09,5750m),C2(28/09,6520m),C3(04/10,7000m),C4(08/10,7420m),Smt(09,12,15,17/10)

routememo:
  Lenser - 7 Nov 79

  Climbed point 6170m at south end of Chago Glacier by Braun, Rutz, Pochen on 16th Sept (6170m) & 23 Sept (Pochan). Also point 6250m NNW of point 6170m by Rutz, Lenser and Sonam Girme on 18th Sept. Weichert and Sonam Girme climbed E Ridge of Makalu II. Never went above Makalu Col on top NW Ridge of Makalu I.

  Postcard from Stefan Woerner to a friend in Switzerland, dated Base Camp, 5450m, 28th Sept says: "The work on the mountain is very hard but however we hope to reach the summit around Oct 10th"


  Winkler - 14 Oct 79

  Winkler and Schlamp came by helicopter to KTM 13 Oct after having walked ex-BC 8 Oct. Schlamp no climber. Winkler unhappy with Lenser's attempt. Mailrunner said saddle reached c6th between Makalu I and Makalu II at 7400m. Braun has hemmoroids; gone back up to ABC.

  C2 put at 6500m - date not known
  Pochan strong climber.


  Lenser - 6 Aug 79

  Route = NW Ridge - new route
  BC where French 1955 had C1 at foot of ridge from point 6350m at 5300m
  C1 6400m = French C3
  C2 7400m in North Col
  Makalu II from Col if try this peak at all - a fall back peak
  C4 7700m on very steep NW Ridge and rocks very smooth; may traverse around and put one tent at 7700m.
  C4 or C5 at 8100m on ridge in good place, near top but difficult rock climbing. 

  12 Sherpas above BC including sirdar Sonam Girme
  200 porters
  6 weeks for climb - top 15 Oct if at BC 1 Sept

  4 members arrive Sept 8 or 9 and fly by helicopter to Sedua 2100m on 11 Sept.
  40 oxygen bottles; can be used for climbing by those who wish.


  Abandoned attempt on Makalu I

  By 19 Oct - did not actually go above North Col to try Makalu I.
  Climbed 2 minor peaks west of Chago Glacier.


expid: EVER79301
peakid: EVER
year: 1979
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: W Germany
leaders: Gerhard Schmatz
sponsor: Swabian Mount Everest Expedition
ascent1: 34th,35th
countries: New Zealand, Switzerland, USA
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1979-08-25
smtdate: 1979-10-01
smttime: 1400
campsites: BC(25/08,5400m),C1(04/09,6000m),C2(07/09,6500m),C3(12/09,7200m),C4(24/09,8000m),Smt(01-02/10)
accidents: Hannalore Schmatz and Genet died on descent from exposure
achievment: Gerhard Schmatz oldest summiter to date (50 yrs)
routememo:
  28 Sept 79

  No tent pitched on SE Ridge in 1979 autumn; oxygen dumped at site of others camp.

  Sungdare had heart attack during descent from C3 to C2 and was unconscious in C2.


  Von Kaenel - 19 Oct 79

  Von Kaenel and Warth argued against all 8 going together to top on 2nd Oct, thus leaving no one in C4 in support; 2 deaths unnecessary.

  Von Kaenel's party carried stove and gas all the way to top in case of need, but 2nd party had none. Doesn't understand Genet's wildness when oxygen ran out. Bank's oxygen finished at South Summit in descent and he not affected.


  Schmatz - 16 Oct 79

  Mrs Schmatz died just below site of former ridge camp at about 8350m. Maybe Sungdare should have dragged her down, maybe she was not dead when he continued alone, but maybe she would have had permanent brain damage and very bad frostbite.

  Schmatz thinks the rucksack Genet threw over the side when his oxygen ran out contained their food and drink.


  Press Conference - 15 Oct 79

  1 Oct - summiters from Col snow conditions: very soft snow, bad conditions - not too bad weather, windless.

  Same day all other members and 3 Sherpas from C3 to Col, summiters returned to South Col and stayed that night at C4.

  2 Oct - 2nd summiters left Col 5:00 am - 1st rope: Fischbach, Ang Phurba; 2nd rope: Banks, Kaempfe and Genet; 3rd rope, Ang Zamba, Mrs Schmatz and Sungdare. Shortly after leaving Col, Genet unroped and fell behind; unroped against Schmatz's orders but sometimes you don't find same rhythm with other climbers and maybe this the reason. 3 parties went close together to summit but after while Genet fell behind 3rd party; don't know why, maybe only 50m behind all others.

  2nd team (=8 climbers) reached top 1:00-1:30 pm; short time on top and then down; first to reach top next last ones going up as first party were descending; all well.

  1st party to C2 6300-6400m from C4 this day, 2 Oct resting in C3. Saw 6 climbers at 7400m turned back because of bad weather. Poles [on Lhotse] said the 6 were Poles and in fact they were Poles.

  Banks said he always heard last party behind and they were coming down well snow and cloud decreased by wind became very strong and temperature dropped markedly.

  Fischbach, Sherpa, Kaempfe and Banks reached 8350-8400m on ridge about 5:00 pm and saw and heard other 4 descending steep section on ridge below South Summit and above ridge camp site at 8500m. At base of steep section Genet's oxygen ran out and he expressed strong desire to biv refused to continue down. 5:00-5:30 pm according to Sungdare and Ang, the sources about all future events of Genet and Mrs. Schmatz.

  Zambu went to ridge camp site and collected oxygen left as ascent and then back up to others still on ridge (Sungdare, Genet and Mrs Schmatz); reached others perhaps 7:00-7:30 pm.

  Genet again insisted on staying there for night; snow cave in the deep snow but bad cave because snow very soft; whether he had food or drink, doesn't know.

  Sungdare and Mrs Schmatz stayed with Genet. They stopped, Schmatz believes, because Genet did. Zamba went on down to Col and reached there 9:30 pm.

  Genet transferred experience from Alaska to Himalayas and didn't realize 2000m higher. In morning Genet dead from exposure, exhaustion and frostbite. Oxygen must have run out during night; very strong wind this night.

  3 Oct - Sungdare descended to ridge camp site and brought up more oxygen to Mrs Schmatz. These two start going down leaving Genet at cave at 8:00-9:00 am and were visable from Col as they were going to ridge camp site.

  Very early same morning, 6 Sherpas left C3 with oxygen and supplies to attempt rescue. One of them Nawang Tenzing arrived Col at 8:30 am and he and Fischbach began going up towards the 2 descending climbers but at this time while NT and F going up only 1 person seen coming down. Mrs Schmatz had sat down, said she could no longer go on and died also of exposure, exhaustion and frostbite. Sungdare continued down. When they met Sungdare, helped him down; they did not go on up to Mrs Schmatz.

  Mrs Schmatz not in first day's summiters because stronger climbers had to break trail.

  4th Oct - Warth and Von Kaenel from C2 to Col and stayed at Col that night to try to recover bodies but very bad weather (especially wind) drove them down on 5th; they did not go above Col.

  Asked Doug Scott to bury bodies if he reaches them.

  Genet made decision to biv because area covered ridge camp is not so difficult he couldn't have descended during night; made wrong decision because lack of oxygen which affected judgement.


  Schmatz - 14-15 Oct 79

  All summiters used oxygen from South Col upwards. Genet would have been in first summit party if hadn't given Schmatz his own oxygen mask when Schmatz's went down the Lhotse Face when they were climbing to Col.

  Genet's oxygen ran out in descent and as result he lost his judgement. Mrs Schmatz would be alive if not for this. He threw his rucksack over the side and did other wild things.

  Vogler left expedition in a hurry, concerned about girl friend.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Ministry of Tourism - 7 Oct 79

  5 members and 3 Sherpas climbed Everest 2 Oct between 13:00 & 14:00 hours: 
  - Fischbach
  - Kaemphe
  - Banks
  - Ang Phurba Sherpa, 22, Namche
  - Mrs Schmatz
  - Genet
  - Ang Jambu, Pangboche
  - Sungdare Sherpa, 24, Pangboche

  While descending because of exhaustion and bad weather, Genet, Mrs Schmatz and Sungdare could not reach South Col same day; had to biv at 8400m

  Next am (3 Oct) Genet found dead of freezing. Mrs Schmatz and Sungdare descended for 1 hour and she died that am.

  Sungdare coming down alone when Nawang Sherpa of rescue party from C3 found him. He was taken to C3, given oxygen by rescue party; frostbite in both feet and snowblind; being taken to BC 4 Oct.

  Bodies: no information


  Jin Jerram - 6 Oct 79

  Kathy Sullivan and Mike Corington (Ray Genet's girl friend and Scott Nuptse-Everest member) came from Everest BC yesterday in 2 days with news:

  All other German Everest expedition members and 3 Sherpas are believed to have reached summit on the day after the first team - went in 2 or more parties. Last party composed of Mrs Schmatz, Ray Genet and 2 Sherpas. 

  Last party was last seen from C3 at 4:00 pm that day near South Summit

  Genet and Mrs. Schmatz died of exhaustion and dehydration, 1/2 hour apart between South Summit and South Col. One Sherpa reached South Col that night, other Sherpa bivouacked and is in bad condition (whether frostbitten, Jerram doesn't know) - party had no water with them.

  Kathy Sullivan came to KTM, this morning in Jerram's helicopter. 


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Ministry of Tourism - 3 Oct 79

  Summit 1 Oct by
  1) G. Schmatz
  2) Warth
  3) Von Kaenel
  4) Pertemba, 30 Years - 1st in autumn
  5) Lhakpa Gyalu, 28 years

  Left South Col 5:45 am and reached summit 14:00 hours; 1 hour on top and left 15:00 hrs and returned to South Col 19:00 hrs [after dark]. Weather cloudy that day. All summiters in good health.

  2nd and last attempt scheduled for 2 Oct by total 8 more people.


  Peter Vogler - 28 Aug 79

  Expedition was spending 5 days at Pheriche because of poor weather which brought snowfall - should have reached BC 25-26 Aug. Warth, Genet and LO joined rest of team at Namche.

  Vogler left expedition because full climbing period will finish too late for him; he must be back in Germany before then; hadn't expected HMG's requirement that climbing begin only on 1st Sept. Also apparently Vogler not happy with Schmatz and/or his leadership.


  Deepak Lama - 17 Aug 79

  Everest expedition arrive Khunde 13 August according letter from Pertemba received by Deepak today. Would be 2-3 days at Khunde and 4-5 days at Pheriche.


  Schmatz - 30 July 79

  Arrive BC 24 Aug after 3 days acclimatization Khunde
  Summit early Oct (6 weeks or less climbing)
  S Col route: nothing new - probably no camp on SE Ridge; C3 on face, C4 on col.

  Oxygen 120 bottles; will take to high camps and each man decides his own use
  20 HA Sherpas; Pertemba = sirdar

  All members able to get to top - Mrs S? "I don't know" whether will succeed
  6 have been on Lhotse Face
  9 members including 1 Swiss, 1 New Zealand and 1 USA


  21 Aug 79

  Ray Genet sent oral message by a Sherpa who met him near Junbesi to say he wants his wife and baby to go on foot to Khumbu with 3 Sherpas not by plane to Lukla.


  Letter from Gerhard - 15 Oct 79

  We have all been above Base Camp and busy with the ascent. Tragedy struck our second party and led to the death of Hannelore and Ray Genet on the descent from the summit.

  Inspite of the tragic ending to our expedition I believe we have set several precidents. These include
  - ours was the fastest successful expedition to Everest (from establishing BC
    until reaching the summit, 32 days)
  - it is the smallest successful expedition to Everest (seven men and one woman)?
  - the first Everest expedition of which all members reached the summit 
    (plus five Sherpas)
  - the first married couple to climb Everest
  - Hannelore Schmatz was the fourth women and first woman of the Western
    Hemisphere to climb Everest.
  - I have now ascended the highest peaks of all the continents


expid: EVER79401
peakid: EVER
year: 1979
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Andrzej Zawada
sponsor: Polish National Everest Expedition
ascent1: 36th
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1979-12-31
smtdate: 1980-02-17
smttime: 1430
termdate: 1980-02-20
campsites: BC(31/12,5360m),C1(08/01,6050m),C2(09/01,6500m),C3(15/01,7150m),C4(11/02,7960m),Smt(17/02)
routememo:
  Zawada & summiters - 28 Feb 80

  Saw one body only, believe woman's body and almost sure Mrs Schmatz; short and thin like woman, sure it was woman, Cichy while descending saw body at 8350m. Clothes red and blue, light blue backpack, ice axe, rope and mattress at 8550m; probably biv site - am black. Cichy and Wielicki saw body from ridge 34m from it body lying, part inside ice; 6:00 pm when near body, getting dark but could see.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 28 Feb 80

  No 1 at 8550m on descent slightly different route saw body, probably female.

  No 2 at 8350m body in red and blue clothes lying on ice slope 100m below ridge; 30m long rope fixed around this body.

  Were very tired and oxygen depleted, we could do nothing for them; weather very strong so passed body without examining. 


  Zawada & Co. - 27 Feb 80

  List of winter preparations began with ascent of Noshaq in 1973; Lhotse 1974 to Dec reached 8250m for 1st time in winter and could observe weather conditions in Everest area.

  Everest: obtained permission very late, in Nov 1979 and reached KTM in Dec and BC last day of Dec.

  Climbing: search for route in Icefall and 8 Jan C1 established at 6050m; 9 Jan C2 at 6500m; 15 Jan C3 at 7150m near bottom of Lhotse Face. Wind not so difficult while lower camps established at lower altitudes, but every day winds strength grew. Several attempts to establish C4 unsuccessful and necessary stay in BC. C3 completely destroyed by wind in early Feb.

  C4 established 11 Feb after C3 restablished on 9 Feb. C4 on Col in 1 small biv tent in which could get no rest and 1st team first and 2 actual summiters made camp but had to go down 12 Feb without going higher. C4 tent because no snow at Col. Few hundred oxygen bottles visable and lot of destroyed tents.

  About 200 km/hr winds, at times and blew climbers upwards and only holding fixed rope could keep footing. Zurek blown 20m sideways when fixed on rope.

  Lowest temperature in BC = -24 degrees C and on S Col -42 degrees C; warmest at BC = -18 degrees C in 50 days there.

  Light strong American tent put on Col was very good; carried to Col by Zawada and Szafirski on 13 Feb. Then only 2 men on Col at night but next day Heinrich and Pasang came to Col while Zawada and Szafirski moved on.

  14 Feb Szafirski to 8150m; Szafirski with 2 bottles of oxygen too heavy, 20 Kg deposited 1 bottle and returned to C4. Zawada did not go above C4 because had come direct from C2. Szafirski did not expect to reach top, to reach 300-400m above C4.

  15 Feb - Heinrich and Pasang Norbu tried without oxygen (throughout climb) except sleeping a C4 and reached 8300m; then windy and snowfall. Their goal was to find best route to S Summit; if possible would have gone to top.

  Wielicki and Cichy sent as last chance; wind not so strong. Reached C4 16 Feb and 17 Feb left C4 at 7:00 am; each took 1 bottle; on top at 2:20 pm; hardest part from S Summit to top because of overhanging cornices. Had deep snow on ridge also and this made climb difficult with only 1 oxygen bottle each, used from Col to top to S Summit; descent from S Summit while very tired, from 4:30 pm to 9:00 pm to Col, with only one man moving at a time. All time strong wind and feared tent at C4 collapsed tripod found on top 30 cm above snow only legs.

  Summiters fixed minimum thermometer on tripod; will show next summiters what has been minimum since 17 Feb.

  Found inside tripod note presumably from Genet "1979 - for a good time call Pat Rucker, 274 - 2602 Anchorage, Alaska, USA"

  Stayed 40 minutes on summit. Wielicki and Zawada frostbitten toes. 

  Zawada "now there will be a lot of winter expeditions especially for lot of 8000m peaks. "In winter all 8000m peaks are virgin again." Would like to do again by different route Bonington route or American route or Yugoslavian route, but not for our generation. Also very interesting would be winter ascent of K2 but problem is caravan.

  Alpine generation = 6-10 years 
  Other routes on Everest mean new techniques

  Zawada "from Col to C3 a little too long." Szafirski and Zawada left Col at 4:00 pm, too late. When Zawada came to small part of face where no fixed rope, so dark Zawada couldn't find top of next fixed rope and did traverse and down 100m to Cwm, but steep ice field and had not rope. Zawada alone and experienced alpinist and so stayed in one place and dug little hole in snow to protect from wind. Waited with light and Wielicki and Cichy found him there at midnight; about -40 degrees C. Started down immediately and reached C3 5:00-6:00 am. 2awada has one frostbitten toe (right big toe).

  Wielicki more serious both big toes but not sure what will lose. 

  Zawada goes to to Poland for 10 days. leaves about 5 March and returns 20 March.

  Zawada: "damn sure that this is would record; is very important that Everest is conquered in winter but not so important ????" 

  Polish record

  European winter season 1 Dec 20 Monday

  In Feb stronger winds than in early Jan.

  Anyone who questions whether this ascent was in winter, I invite him to one of low camps.

  Is possible to conquer Everest in January but must start climb 1st Dec and establish all camps, then wait for that one day when wind dies down; this was hardest and most difficult and most dangerous climb any of us had & many don't want to do winter ascent again. 

  Acclimatization, slower at lower temperatures. 

  "One good thing in winter is no snow avalanche" but icefall still moving and serac collapsing may be from pressure of glacier from W Cwm and Lhotse Face crevasses a little. Many tents destroyed even in BC 4-5 times.


  SR Sharma - 15 Feb 80

  Heinrich and Pasang reached 8350m without oxygen; because winds bad, cloudy weather and snowfall they came down and are in C3 about 2:30 pm. Zawada resting at C3, Szafirski is at C2. Tomorrow both plan to be in BC. Zawada could not go down further because needed rest but no frostbite. Cichy and Weilicki are in C3.

  Team requests extension to 17th of permit but govt not yet decided, maybe later today - so that Cichy and Weilicki make summit attempt on June (??); if they cannot reach S Col tomorrow, no need for 2-day extension.

  Permit extended to 20 Feb; summit today Cichy and Wielicki.

  Polish change expected at S Smt about 5 pm. 5:30 no info.
  Snow today; some wind and would never have tried this except today last day and it was Everest.


  SR Sharma, Tourism - 15 Feb 80

  Today temperature BC -14 degrees, C2 -23 degrees, C4 -41 degrees.
  Wind at BC normal and C2 normal.
  Above S Col seems strong and cloudy.

  Yesterday Zawada and Szafirski left Col in am to go up. After 1/2-hour or more, Zawada became sick (respiration problem and oxygen supply problem = weak) and decided to descend below C4 and asked Szafirski to go on up alone. 150m above Col, Szafirski could go not further because of wind and he too decided to go down.

  Heinrich and Pasang reached C4 at 4:15 pm yesterday and Szafirski reached C3 at 5:00pm, but Zawada not there Cichy and Wielicki went to search for Zawada from C3 and found him. First 300m above C3 resting near a rock at 9:00 pm. 3 had to biv there last night and arrived C3 8:00 am today.

  Zawada OK - no major problem, no frostbite - today desending farther and Szafirski also descending today.

  Tody 8:00 am Heinrich and Pasang left Col to go up without oxygen. Will attempt sumit without oxygen.

  Radio contact at 3:00 again today - none from sumiters yesterday because they weak.


  SR Sharma, Tourism - 14 Feb 80

  Zawada and Szafirski reached Col yesterday. Last contact from Col to BC yesterday 8:00 pm and said they would go to sumit today. After that no radio contact with them, 

  Heinrich and Pasang without oxygen left C3 and reached col at 4:00 and 4:30 radio from Col to BC said they did not see Zawada and Szafirski - no further news.


  SR Sharma - 14 Feb 80

  Zawada and Szafirski reached S Col yesterday 5:00 pm and planned to go towards summit today. 

  No contact with them them from BC today so their movements today not known by 11:00 am radio contact with KTM. It appears from BC there is strong wind on SE Ridge today.

  Today two members and 1 Sherpa going from C3 to Col.


  SR Sharma - 13 Feb 80

  3 went to South Col 11th went to C3 yesterday. 
  Today Zawada and 1 member left C3 for Col; may attempt to summit tomorrow. 
  Today BC to C3 wind normal, temperatures:
  C3  -29 degrees C
  C2  -24 degrees C
  BC  -17 degrees C
  Weather very good.
  Lwow frostbite while making route from C3 upwards and today to BC - not serious.


  SR Sharma - 12 Feb 80

  3 members reached S Col at 15:20 yesterday and established C4 in tents.
  Wwind very strong yesterday and temp -40 degrees at col today. 
  Leszek Cichy, Walenty Fiut, Krzystof Wielicki & Jan Holnicki-Szulc left C3 but Jan could not reach Col because tired and returned to C3.

  Not decided when summit attempt. People in C2 and C3 leave today for higher camp. Summit attempt might be by these, not yesterday's S Col-ers. Summit attempt maybe tomorrow, maybe day after.


  SR Sharma, Tourism - 11 Feb 80

  Today 4 members C3 to establish C4. Today best weather and wind including normal at BC
  -16 degrees at BC
  No one C1
  -26 degrees C2
  -33 degrees C3 - strong wind at C3 but normally so.


  SR Sharma, Tourism - 6 Feb 80

  Today 102 km/hr wind at BC
  C2 3 members -32 degrees
  No movement upwards today because of wind.


  Zurek - 5 Feb 80

  4 days enough if C4 established - but maybe no success.
  7800m highest point reached Wielicki 21/22 Jan above yellow band. 
  2 days later 7500m reached by Zurek and 2 others and then dangerous from wind-blown ice particles 6 inches big.

  "We don't expect so strong wind" so consistently - expected more and longer calm periods.
  May not be possible to dig ice cave at Col - all rock, too little snow.

  Probably no C5, only dump especially of oxygen.

  In winter every member must have mask on face as in Antarctic. Shoes very important - if too soft don't give support with crampons. In winter expeditions must start earlier than we did. Mountain so high as Everest need minimum one month acclimatization.

  Zurek dislocated right arm, fell in crevasse near C2 and 2 weeks ago bad stomach which problem still with him.

  Sometimes 7% humidity - throats dry out badly. 

  Zurek arrived KTM from SYB today - to Del/Frankfurt/Poland - leaves KTM 6 Feb.

  "So strong wind and so long I never see before, day night day night. You can't hide from it - very depressing. I am afraid many of our members have the same feeling of depression. This may be most serious obstacle to success after wind. 

  Four days with no wind is enough for success. 4 days from C3 and return with oxygen deposit SE Ridge. Cold is not so strong - wind is the problem. In dry air, cold is more tolerable.

  Only Zurek ill - others came down before BC with him, but not ill.


  SR Sharma, Tourism - 5 Feb 80

  105 km/hr at BC today - 8 degrees
  No one in C1
  2 or 3 in C2
  No one in C3
  Strong wind in all camps.


  SR Sharma, Tourism - 4 Feb 80

  110 km/hr wind BC since yesterday eve.
  BC -15 degrees today
  C1 -17
  C2 -25
  One tent blown away C2 yesterday reportedly
  6 members above C3 to C2 now coming down mever reached C3 in past few days.


  Dhakal, Tourism - 1 Feb 80

  Weather very good today probably C4 tomorrow on S Col
  Men who want to C3 yesterday dumped loads and slept in C2

  4 members sick - 1 to KTM tomorrow, 3 to stay at SYB (Dr. is with them)


  SR Sharma, Tourism - 1 Feb 80

  BC today -17 degrees, C1 -25 degrees & C2 -30 degrees
  C3 temperature not available but 2 men going there today
  C4 hope to establish 7-9th Feb.


  SR Sharma, Tourism - 31 Jan 80

  3 members and 2 Sherpas today BC -> C1
  2 members 3 Sherpas today C1 -> C3
  C4 on Col 2 Feb, highest point 7800m reached so far by expedition
  BC -18 degrees today. Weather good and wind normal (= no wind)
  1 member to KTM Sun ex-SYB (HEV charter) because illness.


  SR Sharma - 29 Jan 80

  All in BC today - very tired so only LO at radio - plans not known 
  BC -12 degrees today
  no wind at BC today
  will talk with Zawada on radio tomorrow


  Dhakal - 28 Jan 80

  BC  -19 degrees today
  C1  -22 degrees
  C2 & C3 no people

  4 members from BC with altitude sickness - all members not well and leader coming to BC today. 


  SR Sharma - 27 Jan 80

  All team still in camps below C3, i.e. in BC, C1 and C2. Zawada in C1 some went up beyond C3 last week but unable reach South Col.
  Wind normal at BC - temp -24 degrees at BC
  Plans not known at BC


  SR Sharma, Tourism - 25 Jan 80

  Today wind normal at BC

  BC  -15 degrees
  C1  -24 degrees
  C2  -28 degrees

  Not able stay at C3 because of wind - all (18) in C2 and C1. Today cloudy

  Zawada C2 -> BC today and decision soon, LO says on whether to continue climbing. 


  SR Sharma, Tourism - 23 Jan 80

  - 4 degrees BC
  -25 degrees C1
  -29 degrees C2
  -30 degrees C3

  Wind normal today
  16 members and 4 Sherpas are above BC
  Maybe climbing above C3 today - were held up past several days by winds


  Sharma - 21 Jan 80

  Hurricane last night - members at C3 couldn't sleep
  Today Ok
  C4 within 3-4 days

  16 members are now above BC in C1, C2, C3


  Dhakal, Tourism - 20 Jan 80

  No C4 yesterday - winds today 15/meters per second
  Temperature last night
  -18 degrees in BC
  -29 degrees in C2


  SR Sharma - 15 Jan 80

  Today very windy 15 m/sec
  -17 degrees BC last night
  -26 degrees C1
  -26 degrees C2

  4 members C2 -> C3 today


  SR Sharma, Tourism - 16 Jan 80

  C3 - 15 Jan, 7150m
  Today: temperature -21 degrees BC
                     -26 degrees
  Weather excellent
  All well
  Trying to find safe route in Icefall - 3 members working on it


  SR Sharma, Tourism - 13 Jan 80

  C2 - 9 Jan - 6500 
  Fine weather 9 Jan  -17 degrees

  Sick member and LO returned to expedition


  SR Sharma - 9 Jan 80

  C1 8 Jan 6000m
  -18 degrees at BC today in fine weather - fine yesterday
  C2 maybe today

  1 member yesterday to Lobuche only with altitude sickness - name not given


  SR Sharma - 7 Jan 80

  Heavy snowfall prevented establish of C1 as of yesterday evening's radio contact - still making on route in Icefall.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Ministry of Tourism - 4 Jan 80

  Everest expedition established BC at 5630m on 31 Dec

  Today's weather fine at BC - temperature -16 degrees


  Zawada - 28 Dec 79

  Expect establish BC 28 Dec.
  Yesterday permit from HMG to end 15 Feb for winter expeditions ascent but one more week to descend

  20 members in winter. all Poles; 5 Sherpas and 4 BC staff and 1 L0

  Temperature now -21 degrees in BC, -35 degrees in Cwm; even at BC much snow driven by wind
  10 tons baggage by air Pol - Lukla

  1 week - 10 days make C1 - top of Icefall
  C2 - in Cwm
  C3 - right of bottom Geneva Spur at 7200m
  then South Col will have ice hole = C4 and on SE Ridge C5 at 8400m in another ice hole - tents not possible in winter winds.

  Must use oxygen because in winter not experimenting - from C3 use oxygen: fond on Lhotse meant much greater speed of progress in mid-Jan established C4 - from South Col to summit is the big problem because of wind turbulence in South Col

  1st party of expedition is in Thyangboche
  2nd party now in Lukla
  3rd party fly to Lukla and leave Lukla on 27th Dec

  Special equipment for small meter log measurement - minimum and maximum temperature and wind speed


  Zawada - Dec 79

  Has permission for winter 1979-80 and spring 1980 - with 6 Sherpas (Pemba Nurbu = sirdar), 20 Polish members will attempt Everest in winter via South Col; then 10 members leave and another 10 arrive for spring climb via South Pillar
  Using oxygen.

  Fly to Lukla - Zawada hopes his wife will come to KTM in spring and he will meet her here for fortnight in KTM.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 4 Feb 79

  Permission for Poles to climb Lhotse in winter awaits Cabinet action on new law providing for winter season; cabinet will probably act soon after HM returns from Pokhara [in about two weeks].

  At least 37 men have scaled at least two 8000m peaks. Zygmunt Heinrich is only Pole who has scaled three (Zurek confirms). 

  Zawada    = 51 years old
  Szafirski = 42 years old
  Cichy     = 28 
  Wielicki  = 30


  Everest In Winter, by leader Andrzej Zawada

  Two members of the Polish National Expedition, Mount Everest Winter 1979/80, reached the top of the world's highest mountain on Sunday, February 17, 1980 at 2:30 pm. It was an ever first winter attempt to scale the highest mountain of the world. And it met with a success. But it was not accidental. We, the Poles, have been preparing for it for years. In 1973 we organized successfully the winter expedition to Noshaq 7492m, Hindukush. This expedition provided us plenty of experience in winter climbing on high altitude.

  In 1974 Poles attempted to scale Lhotse, 8511m, in winter but unfortunately they could not succeed it although they had been able to reach up to the altitude 8250m. But should not forget to mention here that this winter expedition allowed us to study the weather conditions in the Everest region very carefully. The basic experience to attack the Everest in winter was accumulated. It is to pointed out that until the present expedition, no rules were formulated by the Nepal Govt for winter in Himalayas.

  Poles were the first to request the Ministry of Tourism of Nepal to give permission to climb Nepal Himalayas in winter and eventually they got this permission in Nov 1979.

  Thus the expedition had to be prepared in a very short time. The team members along with 9 tons of equipment came by Air India to KTM in the middle of Dec and were dispatched by plane to Lukla and thereafter to Khumbu Glacier on foot.

  The base camp was established on 31 Dec 1979. Next day we started searching a way for onward journey through the dangerous Icefall. We had to work very hardly for establishing a sequence camps and transporting the food and oxygen bottles. All these were done in a very hard winter conditions, frequently in hurricane wind and frost. The lowest temperature in the BC at the time noticed at -24 degree C and on the South Col at -42 degree C.

  On January 8, 1980 camp 1 was established at the height of 6050m by the team members A. Heinrich, K. Wielicki, J. Maczik, R. Szafirski, W. Fiut and K. Zurek.

  On Jan 9, 1980, camp 2 was established at the altitude of 6500m by the same team plus A. Lwow and M. Piekutowski.

  Third camp was pitched on 15th of January 1980 at the level of 7150m by K. Zurek, R. Gajewski and M. Pawlikowski.

  Unfortunately, after pitching the camp 3 their onward climbing was stopped due to strong hurricane winds. Their several attempts to reach South Col became unsuccessful. Numerous members fell ill or got frostbitten. Consequently, one of the members K. Zurek was compelled to go back to Poland.

  Due to the severe wind and storm camp 3 was completely destroyed and had to be reestablished. However, at last, after about one month's efforts on February 11, 1980, the 4th camp was established on the South Col at the height of 8000m by K. Wielicki, L. Cichy and W. Fiut.

  The first night in the camp 4 was very hard because of very strong wind, and it was impossible to establish the tent. Thus they had to spend the night in a small bivouac tent. Only the next team managed to establish a bigger tent but the weather conditions were still making the attack of the peak impossible.

  At last, on the 17th of February 1980 the weather permitted Leszek Cichy and Krzysztof Wielicki to plant the Nepali and Polish flags on the top of the Mount Everest, the highest mountain in the world. This added a new chapter in the history of world mountaineering in winter.


expid: MANA78101
peakid: MANA
year: 1978
route1: NE Face
nation: USA
leaders: Glenn Porzak
sponsor: 1978 Colorado Himalayan Expedition
countries: Canada
bcdate: 1978-03-10
smtdate: 1978-04-19
termdate: 1978-04-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7320m due to avalanche danger
campsites: BC(10/03,3840m),C1(14/03,4940m),C2(23/03,5600m),C3(14/04,6400m),C4(19/04,7320m),xxx(19/04,7320m)
accidents: 4 coolies killed in truck accident enroute to Trisuli Bazar
routememo:
  Highest point 7320m just a couple of rope lengths above C4 "to have a look around."


  SR Sharma, Tourism - 3 May 79

  Manaslu abandoned 29 April because of heavy snowfall and bad weather. Expedition returning to KTM ( when not stated in wireless message).


  SR Sharma, Tourism -  1 May 78

  If weather continues bad for 7 more days will have to abandon; weather very bad and some members are ill and down at BC.


  From leader - 24 April 78

  C4 24,000 feet - from Gordon


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism Ministry - 28 March 78

  C1 established 14 March at 16,200 ft; first occupied 21 March by Gerry Roach, Paul Parker and Bruce Gordan.


  Jej Lama - 23 Feb 78

  4 coolies dead and 3 seriously injured and in KTM hospital; 31 injured in truck which turned over when fell off highway to Trisuli Bazar.

  All members have gone now from KTM; 4 this am and rest last night when went to see damage. 


  Porzak - 14 Feb 78

  2 here now; other 7 arrive 18 Feb (at Yellow Pagoda 1 night and then camp at mountain)
  8 Colorado and 1 Canadian
  Leave 22nd Feb to Trisuli Bazar; arrive BC 7 March at 13,000 feet
  East or NE Face route of Japanese in 1956, etc

  No climbing oxygen
  5 Sherpas above BC and 1 cook and 2 assistants
  5 camps above BC in the C5 at 25,000 feet

  Food for up to 1 June. 2-3 weeks from BC to C2 carrying 7-8 times but super way of acclimatizing. 8 of 9 members have been:

  2 - 26,200  on Everest
  1 - 25,500  Makalu
  1 - 24,500  Hindukush
  1 - 24,000  Makalu
  2 - 23,000+ Makalu
  1 - 20,320  McKinley

  By end March C2 well stocked and intial route then icefield 19,000-20,500 ft with C3 at top of icefield. C3 exposed to avalanche from above and must be sited according to avalanche pattern.

  Only 5000 ft of fixed rope which will fix on 23,500-25,000 ft head wall for descent.

  Long route: cut in half at lower reaches, then from C3 up is other half.
   
  Rather push to get 6 in position to go to summit then. Banking on fact of climbers experience will get way to top.


  Letter from Manaslu BC - March 29, 1978: 

  Your heart throbs up through your chest into your ears untill all you can hear is the thump. Your legs drag your feet ahead painfully, slowly. The glare and the illusion of heat is stifling. Head down, you plod onward, upward toward C2 where you will dump the fifty pound load off your back, sink gratefully onto it and breathe deeply of the rarified air at 18,400 feet. The satisfactions of Himalayan climbing are not immediate but on reflection.

  C2 at the Naike Col on the shoulder of Manaslu is a beautiful place when the weather is nice but members of the 1978 Colorado Himalayan Expedition are finding C2's beauty exacts a heavy price for it's pleasure.

  Weather is the key to success in the Himalaya and the weather around this year had been atrocious. Since our arrival in BC on March 10, we have not had more than two good climbing days in a row. A conservative estimate is that we have received easily five feet of snow at BC since that time and much more higher on the mountain. Given this problem, the progress of the expedition had been remarkably steady and on schedule.

  Within a week, C2 should be occupied by most of the expedition members and Sherpas. All necessary supplies for the remainder of the climb will be there. It will be Advanced BC and home for the next month. If the weather will just give us a break.

  On March 13, the big "welcome to BC" storm finally ended and we were able to get organized. Equipment and food was sorted and loads destined for C1 at 16,000 ft were put together.

  March 14: the route to C1 was put up in one long day of climbing. At last we were really on the mountain. Morale soared. Danger along the route was not terribly serious with no crevasse and only minimal and fairly predictable avalanche hazard. The next day the movement of loads to C1 began as the weather seemed to be holding fine.

  We celebrated Paul Parker and Sandy Reed's birthdays the evening of March 15 after a good day of hard load carrying. The Sherpas ate with us and it was a real celebration. Cake, candles, balloons, even fireworks. The omens were good.

  March 19 was the next decent day. We carried loads to C1 and were surprised to find the location we all agreed upon for the camp had been narrowly missed by a big avalanche after the storm. So much for educated guesses. We moved C1 200 yards up on a ridge.

  On March 21 C1 was occupied. A milestone. Also the first day of spring ushered in by a snowstorm. Snow days are difficult. We all spend those days reading or writing letters or just thinking of home and comforts we miss.

  As Paul Parker said one evening, "I wonder what it's like to be inside a building?"

  There are occasional harbingers of spring around BC but they seem get smothered by the evitable next snowstorm. C1 is certainly still in winter. It can be beastly hot in the reflector oven of the glacier but at night it is bitter. The sunburned face under the scraggly beard is quickly forgotten while trying ot gulp down the last meal of the day as the temperature plummets to 8 degrees and your hands stick to your spoon.

  Idle hours generate considerable esoteric conversation among the climbers. Particularly addicted to this form of entertainment are David Jones, Dee Crouch, Gerry Roach and Charlie Clark who pursue metaphysical problems with great seriousness while Glenn Porzak offers backhanded legal opinions. The rest of us usually lapse into silly comments. Keep the mind occupied.

  On March 23 the route to Naike Col and C2 was pushed through and another big psychological step was accomplished. Carries to C2 could begin now. Most of us occupy C1 while carrying loads to C2.

  Each climber and Sherpa has carried at least six loads from BC to C1. A tremendous effort by everyone. All food and equipment is at C1 now and much had already been moved up to C2. With continued hard work and a break in the weather, we will have C2 occupied and stocked within a week and serious work will begin on the icefall and the route to C3.

  All agree that the route from C2 to C3 will be the crux of the climb. It is not technically intimidating but is frought with objective dangers. Avalanche activity off North Peak and down through the icefall usually begins by mid morning so we must get through the icefall early in the day.

  The location of C3 above the is critical. An entire Korean expedition was wiped out at C3 by a single avalanche. We must go higher to find a safe site.


  Source - Gordon

  Manaslu BC: April 24, 1978: Spring has snubbed the Central Nepalese Himalaya this year. Several climbing expeditions have already given up this traditional climbing season and gone home.  We have overcome serious danger and bucked enormous odds to reach C4 at 24,000 feet only to be forced back to C2 by bad weather, avalanches and illness brought on by prolonged living at high altitudes.

  The huge storm of March 29 was an omen followed by hope. The storm blasted C1 with an estimated six feet of snow in just over twenty four hours. Tents were flattened, equipment was buried, people were frightened. The Sherpas wanted to come down to BC. Indeed, an abortive attempt to do so resulted in several being partially buried in a small sluffing avalanche. We were lucky to get off that easy. But the morning of the last day of March dawned clear. The warm sun following the huge storm was a tonic and once again spirits soared. Digging out was accomplished amid talk of re-establishing the route to C2. We all felt that maybe we might now dare to hope winter had blown itself out and the good spring days essential to our success would come.

  Indeed, the following days were reasonable for climbing. Clear mornings were usually followed by cloudiness and some light snow in the evenings but we managed to restore the route to C2 and carry significant amounts of food and equipment to the cache there.

  On April 7, David Jones, Paul Parker and myself moved up to occupy C2 ... perhaps one of the most beautiful places on earth. Situated at the Naike Col the view in every direction is one of magnificent peaks wreathed in shining glaciers, whisps of clouds clinging here and there. Each peak holds a lifetime of climbing ... or just dreaming.

  Our job now was not only to enjoy where we were but to force a route from the col at 18,400 feet up through the icefall to locate C3 around the 21,300 ft level.

  The icefall portion of our route up Manaslu is probably the most hazardous part of the climb. The avalanche threat is severe from the crest of the North Peak above where the potential for hundreds of thousands of cubic ft of snow to come roaring down through the chaos of the icefall is always present and difficult to predict.

  Bruce Gordon decided to leave the Expedition about this time. He received word that his mother, who had been ill for a long time, died in New York. It was a decision we all understood. 

  On April 10, with the additional help of Gerry Roach and Dee Crouch as well as the Sherpas Ang Rita and Nuru, C3 was located at about 21,300 ft above the major activity of the icefall and to the left, away from the danger from the cornices of North Peak. The weather continued to give us a chance. 

  The huge task of moving supplies from C2 through the icefall up to C3 got under way as the good weather held. It was risky business but the experts among us calculated the risks effectively. We moved only early in the day before the sun had a chance to stimulate avalanche activity. On April 14, a good day for moving, Glenn Porzak, the Sherpas Gyalzen and Dorje, and myself occupied C3 taking up residence at 21,300 ft. We soon learned that digging tent platforms at this altitude was something to be done slowly and judiciously as was any physical exertion. 
  On April 15, tax day if you will, Glenn, Gyalzen, Dorje and myself pushed the route to C4 at 24,000 ft. It think it was the hardest physical labor of my life. The lower half of the route was not steep btu snow was knee deep. We took turns breaking a trail. The upper half was blown free of soft snow but crusty and awkward as well as steeper.

  The road from C3 to C4 was certainly not technically difficult nor particularly dangerous but each movement at these heights is an effort whose magnified intensity throbs in your head and out to your fingertips. The shortage of oxygen and slowness of movement prevents you from getting really warm. Particularly you toes grow numb with cold.

  Of course it is not all pain and suffering or we would never come. These high places are certainly among the most beautiful in the world. 

  1200 ft of fixed rope were anchored on the upper part of the route to C4 to aid those who would be carrying heavy loads up in subsequent days.

  Dorje became ill. Probably due to the altitude.

  Dee Crouch and Gerry Roach moved up to join us at C3 on April 16. The next morning Dee woke up sick with a combination of intestinal problems and probably some altitude sickness. David Jones, Sandy Read, Pual Parker and the Sherpas Ang Rita, Nuru and Pasang carried loads that day from C3. Paul and all the Sherpas stayed at C3 swelling our aerie to ten.

  The weather was now showing signs of deteriorating. A storm hit the night of April 17 and continued into the 18th. High winds snapped the pole on one tent and guy lines on some other pulled from their anchors. As snow continued our thoughts turned from upwards toward the summit to below and what the accumulation would be doing to the condition of the icefall route. We knew what it was doing. We were being cut off from C3. Before too long we would would have to give a thought to movement and in which direction it would be possible.

  On April 19, Glenn, Gerry, Gyalzen, Ang Rita, Nuru, Pasang and I started out for C4 cache after a night of snow. Dee was stil quite ill and now Paul was beginning to show similar signs. Pasang dropped out about a third of the way. The rest of us made IV and had brief look above at the beginning of the headwall leading to the summit plateau. It was our next big problem but we were encouraged by what we saw and felt it would go quickly ... if the weather would let us work on it. Now we were getting close.

  On April 20 it was still snowing at C3. Pasang's health was obviously not improving although Dee, amazingly, seemed to be getting stronger, even at over 21,000 ft where recovery from any illness is not likely to be significant. Paul, obviously, was suffering from whatever Dee was recovering from.

  The question of whether to evacuate C3 became the main topic of discussion as the bad weather continued on the 21st. The decision was reached that no matter what, we all needed to get to lower atltitude. Glenn and I had been above 21,000 ft for more than a week and had gone to 24000 ft twice. Dee and Paul were still sick and Gerry, who was tenting with them was beginning to show symptoms. 

  Early the morning of April 22 we struck the tents, secured the cache and turned our backs on C3 to head down the mountain. We knew we would be back so we took only personal gear leaving expensive radios and oxygen equipment. It was a melancholy departure but filled with the hope of going to a place that was safe, where the food and water would be adequate and recovery from assorted medical problems would be possible.

  We stumbled and thrashed down the fixed ropes immediately below camp. The snow had drifted to waist deep in many places. The going was exhausting ... even going down. This was something we hadn't experienced before. We realized just how much our stay at 21,300 ft had taken out of us. As each of us crossed the 500 yard wide avalanche path halfway down the route we passed from peril into relative safety and I think those watching and counting from C2 below began to smile and turned toward getting a good hot breakfast ready for us and tea brewing.

  After a warm welcome, a hot breakfast and mail from home, Dee, Pual and Gerry decided to descend to BC where the combination of good food, good rest, warmer temperatures and lower altitude would give them a chance to reawlly get their health back. To stay at C2, at 18,400 feet would only prolong their illness and, in effect, weaken in time. The next day, I would follow to try and recoup a bit of strength and get this story out.
               
  So now, The 1978 Colorado Himalayan Expedition, having fought off the appalling Himalayan weather, to struggle to 24,000 less than 3000 ft below the summit, rest and wonders if the tick, tick of snow falling on the tents and the incessent whistle and roar of the wind will stop.

  Bodies will mend. Strength will be restored. Will can rebound. But will spring ever come the Himalaya?


expid: MAKA78101
peakid: MAKA
year: 1978
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: W Germany
leaders: Hermann Warth
ascent1: 11th-13th
countries: Austria, Nepal, Switzerland
approach: Tumlingtar->Shipton La->Barun Glacier (BC)
bcdate: 1978-04-01
smtdate: 1978-05-01
smttime: 1445
termdate: 1978-05-25
campsites:
  SouthBC(01/04,4900m),NorthBC(04/04,5400m),C1(07/04,6300m),C2(7000),C3(24/04,7400),C4(30/04,7900m),Smt(01,10,21/05)

routememo:
  K. Diemberger - 3 June 78

  C4: highest camp at 7900m or 8000m
  C2: 7000m

  North BC 5400m for NW Face and 
  South BC 4900m - usual BC for SE Face/Ridge

  Climbed northwest side, same as French '55 (+2 New Zealand attempts). Did not do traverse. In last 1000m French went to left and used turned to right but we went straight through, thus route little shorter than French route.

  When arrive at SE Ridge, conditions very bad: much too dangerous seracs. So went to northwest side to go up with idea possible SE Ridge might be done later by fast very strong team and then Von Kaenel, one of such a team, got frostbite.

  C4 made by Warth and 2 Sherpas, Ang Chepal and Nawang Tenzing on 30 April. Very small camp - Nawang Tenzing belonged to 3rd summit team.

  1st May best weather of all 3 teams but 50 cm deep snow made it difficult. Warth climbed on high flow of oxygen; otherwise would not have been able to make it. Ang Chepal not familiar with oxygen and never used it. Ang Chepal from bottom to top no oxygen. All foreign members used oxygen only climbing above C4. Necessary to put 2nd tent at C4 for next summit team and support team. Expedition now successful; so not so much pressure to get 2nd team on top quickly.
   
  Von Kaenel, Landvogt and Nga Temba had lot of trouble with oxygen systems and by 8200-8300m all without any oxygen. Without to top only at 18:00 hours and in descent biv at 8250m (stopped climbing at 19:30 hrs); had 1 biv bag. Von Kaenel's toes on right foot and Landvogt's feet and fingers frostbitten. Von Kaenel's will probably heal and also Landvogt's fingers. Took several days for them to get down. Spent 11/12 May night at C4, exhausted. Von Kaenel painful snowblindness from 11 May for 2 days. Reached BC 15 May. In beginning of 2nd attack Deimberger was at 3500m for 3 days because in his helping 1st attack got terrible cough; then had to rush up for 3rd attack.
   
  On 17 May Deimberger, Nawang Tenzing and support team of Warth and Ang Chepal - started up - C1

  18 May - C3 at Makalu La 
  19 May - wind, waited in C3 
  20 May - C4 found completely destroyed but repaired it for use for 1 night

  21 May - Diemberger started alone at 06:00 to break trail. Warth and Nawang Tenzing started up 07:00. Diemberger waited at 8100m for them. After this rest by 3 men, Warth and oxygen system didn't work; went up to 8200m without oxygen and then gave up. Nawang also had oxygen trouble but kept on going up. At 8350m both systems not working. Had long rest and D's again worked well and Nawang at reduced flow. Summit at 13:30 hrs and left bottles on top (now 3 bottles on top - 1 Czech/Spain and 2 from this team). Reached C4 with very heavy wind which stated at 14:00 hrs; reached C4 17:60 hrs. I was very tired but went down to C3. Arrived there soon after dark at 20:00 hrs and Diemberger got snowblind when reaching C3, but next morning could see very little and Warth led him. Reached BC on 22nd. 

  No other Sherpas on mountain - food all bought in KTM.
  Warth also Lhotse and Makalu summits.


  SR Sharma, Tourism - 21 May 78

  Von Kaenel, Swiss
  Dr Karl Landvogt, German Dr. in children's hospital
  Nga Temba Sherpa, 28 Jubing, Kharikhola
  Summit 10 May 6 pm

  Next and last team: Diemberger leave BC 17 May with Warth. Diemberger may go to summit on 20 May.


  SR Sharma, Tourism - 18 May 78

  Dr. Hermann Warth
  Sirdar Ang Chepal
  Climbed 1 May 14:45 hrs

  Ang Chepal did not use oxygen and blood dilution, but Warth did use oxygen. 
  returned to C4 (altitude not known).
  Other 4 members are trying to go to summit from 7 May 
  All well


  Warth - 16 Feb 78

  SE Ridge route of 70' Japanese and '76 Spanish
  Fly to T'tar on 10th March and leave T'tar on 11th 130-40 porters
  Reach BC 26-7 March at 4900m
  Summit 10-15 May
  Only 4 camps above BC to 7300m and then summit party carries own light party tent, etc with them and make temporary camp before next day trying for top. Climbing on oxygen only above 7300m - have only 32 bottles.

  Intend to get at least one Sherpa on top
  3 Sherpa members - no other HA Sherpas
  Using only food available in Nepal (although 1/3 foreign made)


  Progress Report from Dr. Hermann Warth

  On March 11th flight from KTM to Tumlingtar in Eastern Nepal. March in with 110 porters and 3.3 tons luggage via Khandbari, Num, Ala till Bungim. In Bungim, the last inhabited village, change of porters is necessary cause the hill porters are not used to carry loads in the higher altitude; there has to be surmounted the "Kongma La," a pass more than 4100m high. Bad weather and unusual much snow caused 55 porters to turn back. In a kind of relay system the loads had been brought over the pass from Bungim till Pematak within 7 days. Also the members of the expedition carried loads. We equipped the porters with sunglasses, blankets and shoes. Their performance apropos of the extremely bad conditions deserves utmost appreciation. According to their information no Makalu expedition had to tackle such bad weather conditions on the Kongma La. In Pematak reeturned further 40 porters cause they had run out of food. The remaining 15 ones we fed out of our own stock. Also in the Barun Valley towards Ribuk and the base camp there were immense masses of snow. That required unusual efforts to break the trail. On 29th of March a group of trail breakers (Ang Chappal, H.V. Kaenel, H. Warth) reached the base camp after 8 hours hard work from Ribuk. The base camp has been established on March 31st by H.V. Kaenel, K. Diemberger, Sherap and H. Warth. It was the 20th day after our departure in Tumlingtar.

  Since it lasted still 1 week more till all loads had arrived in the base camp we used the time for explorations. Regarding the loss of valuable time during the approach march and the critically looking serac zones of the ice fall at the SE - side we decided to attempt the ascent on the NW side, which was more or less the route of the French expedition 1955 led by Jean Franco which succeeded in the first climb of Makalu. Since then no team could climb the mountain via this route.

  On April 3rd K. Diemberger and H.V Kernel found the place for our advanced base camp (ABC) which has been established on April 4th by Nga Temba, Nawang Tensing and H. Warth. The other day these found the route to the upper Chago Glacier, where K. Diemberger and H.V. Kaenel established Camp 1 on April 8th.

  On April 11th, 12th and 13th Ang Chappal and H. Warth provided the partially difficult route to the socialised ice balcony with about 300m fix rope an pitched up Camp 2 on April 13th at 7000m height. In the following days the weather was not that good. Therefore, K. Diemberger, H.V. Kaenel, Nawang Tensing and Nga Temba could not reach the col. The days had been used for extensive carries to Camp 1 and C2. After long lasting and difficult climbings and affixing ropes at the steep rocks leading to the col by H.V. Kaenel, K. Diemberger, Nawang Tensing, Nga Temba, Ang Chappal and H. Warth, these latter 2 and K. Diemberger succeeded lastly in establishing Camp 3 on the col at a height of 7410m on April 24th. By that the first part of the route had been finished.

  H.V. Kaenel and Nga Temba explored the further route towards Camp 4. After 4 nights above 7000m they descended with slight health deficiency to Camp 1 for a longer rest. It is now the turn of the Nawang Tensing and K. Diemberger who carry oxygen bottles to a depot between Camp 3 and the forthcoming Camp 4 and who are going to stay for a longer time in Camp 3 in order to give eventually necessary help to the summit team.

  On April 29th Ang Chappal and H. Warth climbed from C2 to Camp 3. Supported by Nawang Tensing (trail breaking, carrying load) they reached on April 30th the place for Camp 4 in 7950m height. They slept there without using oxygen. Nawang Tensing descended to Camp 3 on the col. On May 1st 7 am Ang Chappal and H. Warth started for the summit. Since Ang Chappal felt uncomfortable wearing the oxygen mask and breathing through it he decided to camp in Camp 4 to try the climb without the help of artificial oxygen. Therefore, H. Warth had to break the trail on the whole route which was utmost strenuous on the vast snow slopes. Nearly with each step he was breaking in up to his thighs and his hips. Only by high oxygen support this effort was possible. At 8250m they reached the 45-50 degree steep and about 200m high couloir leading to the upper part of the East Ridge. The snow conditions in the couloir were even worse. A difficult rock barrier had to be climbed and prepared for the descent and coming parties by a 50m long rope. Lastly, at 1:30 pm the two climbers stood on the very sharp snow ridge leading to the two summits of Makalu. Carefully belaying each other they had to climb over some till 70-degree steep passages to the very small main peak which they reached at 2:45 pm (8475m). An old yellow oxygen bottle proved a former victory. The view towards north and south (base camp, ABC, Chamlang, Hongu mountains) was excellent. In the west and east clouds there prevented views towards Everest, Lhotse and Kangchenjunga. There was nearly no wind around the summit which was enabling the two to stand 45 minutes on it (better around the summit because it is utmost sharp). At 6 pm they arrived without any accident in Camp 4. The effort of Ang Chappal is especially mentionworty: without artificial oxygen he had reached the proud summit of Makalu after heavily carrying loads and after only three days off since our departure in Tumlingtar. The other day the two climbers met in Camp 3 were Dr. K. Landvogt, and not as they had expected K. Diemberger, and Nawang Tensing. Both of them had to descend to ABC, K. Diemberger even to the forests on 3700m height because of throat indignation and high altitude cough.

  On 3rd and 4th of May H.V. Kaenel, K. Landvogt and Nga Temba prepared a further attempt for the summit. But bad weather and high altitude troubles of K. Landvogt and Nga Temba forced them to return to Camp 1. Together with Ang Chappal they climbed on 8th of May again to the Col. On 9th of May they reached Camp 3 as a support team and in order to maintain the walky-talky communication between Camp 4 and the lower camps. On May 10th in the morning there is no communication with Camp 4. Nawang Tensing and H. Warth cannot leave the tent because it is a stormy day. Towards 6 pm the heaven becomes clear. At their utmost astonishment they can recognize 3 spots on the top Makalu: H.V. Kaenel, Nga Temba and K. Langvogt. These didn't reach at the same day Camp 4 where Ang Chappal was waiting for them but had a very cold bivouac at the height of 8250m. Bad weather and defects of the oxygen sets were the reasons for the loss of time. On May 11th in the morning they arrived in Camp 4. Ang Chappal and Nga Temba descended to Camp 3, which has been informed by walky-talky communication by Camp 4 that H.V. Kaenel and K. Landvogt are in good condition and will come on the same day to Camp 3 after a few hours rest in Camp 4 whereas Ang Chappal and Nga Temba will descend to Camp 1. After this well seeming message Nawang Tensing and H. Warth left Camp 3 and returned to Camp 1. But the evening walky-talky communication resulted that Ang Chappal and Nga Temba were staying the great height of of 7950m. The other day, therefore, Nawang Tensing and H. Warth climbed up again the 1200m from Camp 1 to Camp 3. On the route they met the descending brothers Ang Chappal and Nga Temba who were informing that H.V. Kaenel and K. Landvogt had reached Camp 3 this day but were not willing or able to descend further on today. In the afternoon Nawang Tensing and H. Warth met the considerably exhausted H.V. Kaenel and K. Landvogt. H.V. Kaenel was in addition totally snowblind. Both had frostbities and hands and feet of 2nd and 3rd grade. Nawang Tensing guided K. Landvogt down to Camp 1 which they reached at 8 pm whereas H. Warth did not succeed in bringing down H.V. Kaenel further than Camp 2 (7000m). The steep slope beneath the col (40-50 degrees) required very careful climbing and belaying. On May 14th the whole crew was back in the base camp also K. Diemberger who cured his throat sickness and his cough in the lower region of forests.

  On May 17th Nawang Tensing, K. Diemberger and H. Warth climbed up again for a 3rd summit attempt. They were accompanied by Nga Temba and Ang Chappal. On May 20th they arrived in camp 4. It was badly damaged by storms and snowfall and nearly totally buried by snow. The other day Nawang Tensing, K. Diemberger and H. Warth left the tents at 6 am. Unfortunately only two oxygen sets were working. H. Warth accompanied Nawang Tensing and K. Diemberger till the couloir leading to the ridge. There at 8250m he checked their oxygen sets and connected a new bottle everybody and returned to Camp 3. K. Diemberger and Nawang Tensing reached as 3rd team the summit of Makalu at 1 pm. At 8 pm they were back Camp 3. K. Diemberger was snowblind and had to be accompanied the other day by H. Warth to Camp 1.

  At the same day Ang Chappal, Nga Temba and Nawang Tensing started to clear the camps and to carry down the equipment. On May 23rd the whole team was together in the base camp. On May 25th the expedition started the march back to Tumlingtar. On June 3rd it reached KTM.

  Results

  Artificial oxygen has been used from 7950m upwards only 25% of oxygen equipment was working satisfactory, 25% with defects, 50% did not work at all.

  The expedition had not employed any high altitude porters. The members had to carry the loads themselves from the ABC to the higher camps.

  Ang Chappal has climbed the summit without using any artificial oxygen.


expid: KANS78101
peakid: KANS
year: 1978
route1: SW Face-S Summit
nation: Poland
leaders: Piotr Mlotecki
sponsor: Polish South Kangchenjunga Expedition 1978
ascent1: 1st
countries: USA
approach: Dharan->Yalung Glacier (BC)
bcdate: 1978-04-11
smtdate: 1978-05-19
smttime: 1415
termdate: 1978-06-01
othersmts: Climbed illegally Kangchenjunga Central (KANC-781-01)
campsites: BC(11/04,5500m),C1(16/04,6200m),C2(24/04,6600m),C3(27/04,7150m),C4(08/05,7600m),Smt(19/05)
routememo:
  SR Sharma, Tourism - 2 Aug 78

  Leader of Kangchenjunga expedition banned from climbing in Nepal for 5 years from June 1978 as penalty for his expedition's climbing Kangchenjunga South and Central peaks without official permission (these summits not on permitted list).


  Dr. Branski - 16 June 78

  Poles climbed South Summit of Kangchenjunga via SW Face and Central Summit via southwest side. 

  Made a 2nd attempt on Central Summit on 25 May, by Marek Janas and Marek Malatynski; reached nearly 8400m.


  Brady & Tobin - 7 June 78

  Eugeniusz Chobak and Wojciech Wroz to South Summit on 19 May.

  Wojciech Branski, Zygmunt Heinrich and Kazimierz Olech from Spanish C4 about 7600m to Central Summit 22 May.

  Weather pretty good all the time although storm between 19 and 22 May - snow and wind.

  South Summit much more difficult climb technically than Central Summit. Chobak and Wroz only members capable of climbing this from C4.

  Many members not really climbers - another climbers and administrator.

  Brady and Tobin reached Poles C4 but not high enough in Club to get summit chance.

  Others in team in KTM about 13 June.


  Jean Brady - 7 June 78

  Route of same difficulty from BC to Great Shelf. Fixed rope almost all way from C1 to C3 put in by 2 Poles. Used total over 3000m fixed rope.

  Real difficult climbing above C4 to South Summit: 2 barriers of rock to be climbed and steep ice and snow - West Face of South Summit.

  Didn't stay over 1 hour in each C4 because oxygen needed to sleep there, carried load for Poles to each C4 - "we were sort of Sherpas."

  Fixed ropes put in as high as 8200m on South Summit day before ascent to top.

  Spaniards tried only one summit bid. Should be in KTM 9 or 10 June.

  Neither expedition had accident, real frostbite or avalanche.

  Tobin and Brady could have gone to summit if Poles had permitted. "Carl's more disappointed then James." "It was a Polish expedition" with a shrug of shoulders.


  SR Sharma, Tourism  23 May 78

  Kangchenjunga South 8490m: Eugeniusz Chrobak and Wojciech Wroz reached summit 19 May at 14:00 hrs and safely returned to lower camps.

  Expedition leaving BC 30th to return to KTM. All well.


  Dr Branski - 26 Feb 78

  2 in KTM now, Ship has arrived in Bombay and 5 men there. If lucky should disembark first and leave 28 Feb with baggage to Biratnagar.

  BC on Yalung Glacier, same site as British: 5000m+; route not sure: will see
  when get to mountain.

  Leave Dharan about 10 March, reach BC about 24 March, summit mid-May.
  Really want to climb South summit, probably will not attempt main summit. 
  Using oxygen for climbing.
  5 HA Sherpas including sirdar Ila Tsering
  6-7 high camps


  Kangchenjunga 1978

  The Polish Himalaya Expedition on Kangchenjunga led by Piotr Mlotecki was organized by Polish Club Gorski. The Expedition was 37 persons strong including 10 Sherpas.

  According to the permission granted by His Majesty's Government the main goal of the Expedition was to climb Kangchenjunga by the new route from the south side. This goal was not realised completely. As the bottom of the spur leading to south ridge was threatened by constant serac-fall from the Talung Cwm and Yalung Peak we were forced to choose traditional way leading towards the Great Shelf. From there it was possible to obtain a secure access to South Ridge.

  The Expedition met with first problems already during caravan, which started from Dharan Bazar on March 14, 1978.

  Because of very severe weather conditions (heavy snowfall in the region behind Yamphudin) and permanent lack of porters carrying the loads of the expedition which was possible only in groups, one after another, 10 first loads reached the base camp on April 10 and the last one in April 27.

  The Base Camp was established at the altitude of 5200m. On the way to Great Shelf three camps were set up. The first one was established on April 16 at 6200m altitude, second one on April 24 at 6600m altitude and the third one on April 27 at 7150m altitude.

  Proceeding towards main Kangchenjunga from the Great Shelf through Camp 4 the south Summit (altitude 8490m reached on May 19 by Eugeniusz Chrobak and Wojciech Wroz) and Central Summit (altitude 8469m reached on May 22 by Wojciech Branski, Andrzej Heinrich and Kazimierz Olech) of the mountain were scaled. In both cases the climbers used Polish Oxygen apparatus and French oxygen cyclinders.

  Heavy weather condition going worse from day to day (strong wind and snowstorms) as well as forecast of coming monsoon caused the further attempts towards main Kangchenjunga summit from the south side to be abandoned.

  Technical difficulties on the way forced us to install fixed ropes.

  It should be underlined that the Sherpa team performed a very good work. Two of them should be distinguished first of all Lhakpa Gyalu, who twice above worked above 8000m and Mingma Gyalzen who once crossed 8000m.

  The expedition's return way to Ilam via Yamphudin was met with no difficulties.


expid: ANN178101
peakid: ANN1
year: 1978
route1: N Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Ernst Gritzner
approach: Pokhara->Kali Gandaki->Mristi Khola
bcdate: 1978-04-19
smtdate: 1978-05-08
termdate: 1978-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to avalanche injuries
campsites: BC(19/04,4200m),C1(21/04,5000m),C2(5600m),xxx(08/05,6200m)
routememo:
  Dr Alf - 11 May 78

  Arrived on 8 May about 8:30 am at about 6200m making route to site of C3 (C2 at 5600m - C3 would have been about 6400m). Climbing were Sagmeister, Widmann and 2 Sherpas.

  Icefall started at about 7000m and caused avalanche with strong winds and pressure; hit only the 2 Austrians while 2 Sherpas were lucky to protect themselves behind ice; Sagmiester also some what protected by Widmann was hit on head by ice and fell 10m.

  Sherpas not hurt at all. Sagmeister ice hit on shoulder and frostbite in both hands but will heal as will shoulder, etc.

  Widmann cuts on head; has been X-rayed. Was disoriented but now better. In hospital (Sagmeister also in room with him, but his hospitalization not really necessary). Probably stay in KTM 10 days to close head cuts.

  Expedition slow because of much snow and avalanches.

  Rosefolder and Pletschko had been first to go to area where Widmann hit; had been up 3-6 May and then came down on 6th to BC saying it too dangerous. Tried on 7th another route to west but too difficult.

  Altogether 4 members had decided too dangerous and would not go up.

  All to be in BC today and porters come 13 May to pack up.


  SR Sharma, Tourism - 12 May 78

  Annapurna I abandoned. Rudolf Widmann in Shanta Bhavan hospital. Trapped in avalanche while going to C3 site and injured in head 8 May and abandoned same day.


  SR Sharma, Tourism - 10 May 78

  Police radio message from Annapurna I expedition requests helicopter to Jomsom, where leader is and thence to BC or C1 to bring to KTM Rudolf Widmann for operation. 

  Widmann on 8 May was making route to C3 jsut above C2; hit by avalanche. He is being taken down to C1 and to BC.


  Gritzner - 3 April 78

  Route: try to east of French route but will see when reach mountain and see avalanche pattern and keep log book on time of day.

  Pokhara -> BC 8-9 days.
  BC at 4500m.
  5 camps above BC with C5 7400-7500m.
  No interest in east peak.
   
  Have oxygen but think not necessary for climbing or sleeping - although possibly summiters sleep on oxygen night before summit attack.

  Sirdar and 4 Sherpas above BC. 

  When realized his expedition is 13th on Annapurna I - "That's unlucky for us."


expid: PUTH78101
peakid: PUTH
year: 1978
route1: E Ridge from S
nation: W Germany
leaders: Dieter Steigleiter
approach: Pokhara->Gurjakani->Budzunge La->Kaphe Khola (BC)
bcdate: 1978-04-04
smtdate: 1978-04-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to loss of equipment from avalanche
campsites: BC(04/04),C1(06/04,4700m),C2(11/04,5550m),C3(17/04,6000),xxx(17/04,6000m)
routememo:
  Gunter Sturm - 11 Sept 78

  1978 spring German attempt on Putha Hiunchuli (which he himself scaled in Autumn 78 attempted in 1972) was not South Face but really was East Ridge from south.


  Graf - 26 April 78

  At C3 6000m 18 April Graf and Schiemann trapped under avalanche and stopped climbing. Snow avalanche covered C3 and lost much equipment; took more than 2 hours to come out like mouse; no injuries. Two Sherpas, Pemba Tsering and Sonam, were swept down by the avalanche, but were not hurt.

  Could breathe but barely - "I have lost a dream and won a life."

  Mr & Mrs Schiemann and Mr & Mrs Steigleiter came to KTM today.


  Steigleiter - 22 March 78

  BC at about 4100m (where Japanese spr 1972 had base) in Kaphe Khola. 
  Route up South Face - difficult route from all previous attempts. If get to East Ridge at all would be only very last part only.

  6 Sherpas above BC; sirdar is Dorje Sherpa.

  Leave KTM Friday 24 to Pokhara by air and then 10-12 days to BC.
  3 or 4 camps above BC with highest about 6400m.
  Most difficult part: iceface of 300-400m just below summit; also stone and ice falling.

  No oxygen for climbing or sleeping.
  3 weeks climbing with summit by end of April.


expid: ANN278101
peakid: ANN2
year: 1978
route1: S Face-W Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Johann Scharnagl
countries: W Germany
smtdate: 1978-05-03
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(3200m),C1(4100m),C2(5000m),C3(5700m),C4(6200m),xxx(03/05,7100m)
accidents: Leader's hand infected & others sunstroke
routememo:
  BC 3200m
  C1 4100m
  C2 5000m
  C3 5700m
  C4 6200m
  plus free camp by Toni Pellhammer 6500m.
    
  7100m highest point reached = col to West Ridge; reached by Pellhammer and 3 Sherpas then slight frostbite and other having problems (leader's hand infected), 2 others sun-stroke.


  South Face to West Ridge route.

  4 May Pellhammer to C1 and all to BC. Then came bad weather with deep snowfall. Had 1st attempt in April by all members, but 2 members reached only C2 and snow stopped that attempt.

  Small team can succeed if not 2 men really out with hand [infection] and sun-stroke.


  SR Sharma (Tourism) - 10 May 78

  Abandoned because bad weather on 8 May. 
  Last camp 14 April C1 4100m.
  All well.


  Scharnagl & Kruettner - 31 March 78

  South Face route, a new route on Annapurna II. Last 700m is rock, below is snow and ice.

  Leave KTM 2 April by road to Pokhara. 6-7 days to BC up Madi Khola. Last day from Hogo village to BC very difficult because of rock.

  BC - 3500m
  C1 - 4800-5200m
  C2 - 5800-6100m
  C3 - 6500-6600m
  C4 - 7100-7200m

  5 Sherpas above BC. Sirdar is Pemba Tsering.
  No oxygen for climbing or sleeping.
  4 weeks to summit from BC.
  Expedition returns to KTM end of May.


expid: TUKU78101
peakid: TUKU
year: 1978
route1: N Ridge from E Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Francesco Nembrini
approach: Jomsom->Dhampus Pass
smtdate: 1978-04-06
termnote: Abandoned at 5000m due to deep snow
campsites: BC,xxx(06/04,5000m)
routememo:
  B. Adams - 10 April 78

  Gotti only one back in KTM. Expedition made it to 5000m and C2 and then couldn't get equipment supplies up. Too much snow and it looked as though weather wouldn't get better. All well. Rest back soon.


  SR Sharma, Tourism - 10 April 78

  Abandoned. Reached Dambush Pass April 6 and then abandoned because bad weather and snowfall. Now in KTM today.


  Nembrini - 23 March 78

  N Ridge from East Face. Other expeditions climbed via Tukuche Little Peak, whereas this expedition hope to make much shorter route up face. 

  Fly to Jomsom 25 March; to BC 2-3 days. 
  3 camps above BC with: 
    C3 6600m
    C2 6000m
    C1 5500m
    BC 4800m
  Summit 10 April
  2 Sherpas above - Pemba Norbu sirdar, Pemba Maila
  No oxygen at all. First time for all in Himalayas.


expid: YALU78101
peakid: YALU
year: 1978
route1: S Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Josep Piera Queralt
bcdate: 1978-04-17
smtdate: 1978-05-11
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to large crevasses and deep snow
othersmts: Attempted illegally Kangchenjunga Central (KANC-781-01)
campsites: BC(17/04,5170m),C1(23/04,6050m),C2(27/04,6600m),C3(05/05,7200m),xxx(11/05,7600m)
accidents: Leader had pneumonia
routememo:
  Subsidiary peak Kangchenjunga Central summited on April 18 by Narcis Serrat Comerma and Furi Sherpa.


  SR Sharma, Tourism - 2 Aug 78

  Leader of Yalung Kang expedition barred from climbing in Nepal for 5 years from June 1978 as penalty for his expedition's climbing on Kangchenjunga Central Peak, which is not on permitted list and for which no permission given.

  After expedition left Nepal, they wrote from New Delhi to say they had been on Kangchenjunga Central Peak


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 20 June 78

  Spanish Yalung Kang leader said his team climbed Yalung Kang. LO's of both Yalung Kang and Kangchenjunga say climbed Yalung Kang. Sharma is meeting Sherpa summiters tomorrow to question him. So far only Poles say Spaniards climbed Kangchenjunga Central summit.


  Dr. Browski, Polish Kangchenjunga Expedition - 16 June 78

  Spaniards did not attempt to climb Yalung Kang, maybe because of snow conditions. Instead went up Central Summit of Kangchenjunga. Used Polish route to C3, one or 2 days behind Poles, using Polish fixed ropes, but when had climbed to their highest point, found they were not on the highest point of Central summit.

  Leader had pneumonia. No accidents or serious frostbite.


  SR Sharma, Tourism - 21 May 78

  Scaled 18 May 16:20 hours by 
   1) Narcis Serrat Comerma
   2) Furi Sherpa, 20, Junbesi

  C4 16 May (altitude ?) returning to KTM; leave BC 22 May.


  Prunes & Marti - 7 March 77

  Expect others by truck from Terrassa. Were in Belgrade 24 Feb and after this no news: arrive Rorland 8-10 March and go direct to Biratnagar and Dharan at Dharan 12 March earliest.

  5 Sherpas above BC and sirdar Ang Tsering.
  Oxygen for climbing above 7500m in C4 and last day
  Will follow 1975 spring German route on South Face to main peak

  3 weeks Dharan to BC about 3 weeks so early April. BC 5500m like Germans (with acclimatizations and with dump 4800m).

  C4 just under couloir at about 7800m = highest camp probably
  Summit about 15-20 May.
  2 first camps - 10 days; 10 days about C2 -> C3; easy C3 -> C4, then wait for good weather.


  Letter from Joaquim Prunes

  On April the 20th, 7 members of our expedition slept at the Base Camp for their first time. On the 22nd the Polish that had already installed the Camp 1 an open part of the way to the C1 proposed to us the following:

  "Due that the two expeditions will follow the same route up to the Plateau at 7200m, it is convenient to get an unification of the efforts. To gain that, the best procedure would be to open the path two expeditions alternatively, but as they see that it is possible due to our lack of acclimatization to the height (and we agree completely with that, because as we only have two days sleeping at 5100m we cannot try in a few days to open from C2-6500m to the plateau), we are told to use their fixed ropes against bringing them. Some 800m to 1000m of our ropes to the plateau up to 7200m before the 3rd May as maximum.

  Also in the event of a necessity both expedition can use the resources of the other (tents, food, gas, material) is different regarding the oxygen due to the limitation of the quantity, but it reminded open to a  mutual agreement.

  The C3 at 7150m was installed on the 3rd May. On 11 May the roped party composed by Narcis Serrat and Francesc Martinez Troya left C3 to try to go up to C4 at the foot of the Yalung Kang Couloir, following the way open by the Germans in 1975. But when they were up to 7700m they found the way fully broken by crevasses, what made them to go backwards and also to forget about such an itinerary. They also saw that the condition of the snow there was really bad and there was great danger about avalanches. We were also advised by the Polish that were opening their way to the Yalung Kang couloir, that they saw several avalanches and also stone falls down the couloir.

  After a careful investigation of the situation there and having in mind every consequences of changing the peak, we all decided to try central peak. Therefore, on 15th May Luis Ambros and a Sherpa installed C4 up to 7750m at the principle of the Central Peak couloir. Two days later three members with three Sherpas supplied the mentioned camp with every material to initiate an attempt. The day after, 18th May, F. M. Troya, N. Serrat and Sherpa Phuri, started their climbing to the couloir and they saw that before arriving to the top they had to follow a diagonal rock to the right where they believed would go to the highest point. At 50m the pass N. Serrat and Sherpa initiated a rock while Troya had to go backwards he saw that their companions were going up to an important peak, but that it was not the one they wanted to climb in the first instance, and this is placed much more to the right (South).

  The rope Serrat - Phuri followed the ascention through a "tower" of red rock, followed by rock rock ridge that went up to the snow ridge up to the top of the snow, where they considered was the Kangchenjunga Central, in spite that there were several peaks of the same characteristics to the S-direction, when going down they "climb down" following the same way as the ascent to go much more to the North and and after a rappel of 60 or 70m they reached the pass emplaced between the central and principal peaks. They followed by the couloir and reached C3 the same day.

  The height we thought to have climbed after a careful investigation of several informations and by the height marked by our "altimeters" was superior to 8400m but as we had no topography device we could not get a more precise reference.

  After this attempt we had no food enough at any of the high camps, due to the little time on which we had to furnish them. Therefore we had no possibilities for a new attempt of ascention till ten days later, but the over effort we had done during the approach march and during the ascent was the symptom of many expeditions, also the Sherpas had worked during a whole week without rest at all, carrying charges up to 25 kgs to heights over 7500m. All that added to the facts that this area is the first place of the Himalayan where the monsoon attacks and the trouble that the return march represented, following the Polish on such a season of the year on which porters are devoted to the field work, made us to decide about not intending a second attempt.

  The day after our ascent two Polish climbed the South Peak (which at the same style as the Central is composed by several needles of the same height).

  The very 19th, when at the BC, we were asked by the Polish to use our C4 for their attempt to climb the Central Peak, also they asked if we had oxygen there.


expid: ANNS78101
peakid: ANNS
year: 1978
route1: N Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kuniaki Yamada
sponsor: Sagimino Alpine Club
approach: Pokhara->Modi Khola->Annapurna Sanctuary (BC)
bcdate: 1978-03-19
smtdate: 1978-05-01
termdate: 1978-05-07
termnote: Abandoned at 5910m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(19/03,3650m),C1(27/03,5250m),C2(13/04,5630m),xxx(01/05,5910m)
routememo:
  Ishikawa - 13 May 78

  Very difficult - reached 5900m on North Ridge - highest camp was C2 at 5630m.

  Stopped climbing because so much snow and very difficult with much overhanging rock. This route possible but takes long time and this season so much snow, so expedition decided to abandon climbing on 1 May.

  Ishikawa's accident 2 May while coming down from C1. Had heavy load clearing mountain. Fell 200 meters and hit his back on ice pinacle. One vertibrae broken and takes 2-3 months to mend lying on his back, but will climb again.

  All others leave on 16 May; he leaves with 2 others on 17 May and will have to be lying down on planes. 


  Ranjan Bhattacharya, Express House - 9 May 78

  Annapurna South expedition's leader, doctor and injured member Ishikawa came to KTM today by helicopter.

  Ishikawa hurt his back in fall of 2-3 meters and was hit by same ice blocks; is not in hospital here.

  Rest of expedition left BC 7 May


  SR Sharma - 8 May 78

  Abandoned 3 May after reaching 5910m on 2 May.
  1 member back injury on 2 May (not named)
  Others well. Weather not good.


  Yamada - 16 Feb 78

  To Pokhara tomorrow by bus.
  North Ridge route, same expedition as 1973 but different route to summit. 1st time via this North Ridge.

  This ridge very difficult, but no avalanches as from 1972 and 1973 route.

  Will not climb North Pinnacle but will climb Central Pinnacle.

  1964 from northeast to Central Park
  1971 - ?
  1973 from north onto East Ridge from Central Peak
  1978 from East Wall to North Ridge N of North Peak
  Leave 18 Feb

  Caravan 6-7 days 150 porters up Modi Khola to BC at 4050m.
  ABC
  C1
  C4 - 6800m 
  Summit before 20 April

  3 HA Sherpas including Pasang Sonam
  9 members including Dr.
  No climbing oxygen

  Most difficult between C3 and C4 from rock to ice to rock, all very steep.

accidents:
  Ishikawa hurt his back in fall of 2-3 meters and was hit by same ice blocks; 1 member back injury on same day


expid: PUMO78101
peakid: PUMO
year: 1978
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Teruhiko Nagato
sponsor: Hiroshima Shudo University Himalayan Committee
ascent1: 8th
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1978-04-02
smtdate: 1978-05-08
smttime: 1355
termdate: 1978-05-12
campsites: BC(02/04,5200m),C1(07/04,5800m),C2(14/04,6200m),C3(27/04,6520m),C4(02/05,6800m),Smt(08/05)
routememo:
  Nagato - 14 May 78

  C4 hit by avalanche on 2 May, but no one injured. Summiters went direct from C3 to top. 

  1st summit attempt 30 April from C3 but abandoned at 6800m by Tamura and Ito due to bad weather. 

  2nd attempt to be on 3 May by Yagiri, Tamura and Kunihiro; they in C4 night of 2 May and then after avalanche went down.

  3rd attempt 8 May by Tamura and Pemba Lama successful.

  No accident or frostbite; leader and Tamura arrive KTM 13 May; others at Namche maybe - to KTM 17 May.

  Route very difficult, steep rock and ice between 6200m and 6800m.


  SR Sharma - 10 May 78

  Summit 8 May at 12:55 pm by Satoshi Tamura and Pemba Lama, 25. Japan and Nepal flag hoisted and had lunch on top return to C3 9 May.

  Climbing finished. Leave BC 12 May. All well.


  Nagoto & Yagiri - 14 March 78

  Same route as 1973 Japanese, French and Canadian expeditions: SW Ridge.
  Leave KTM 16 March to Lukla if possible. Stop 3 days acclimatizations at Thyangboche or Pheriche, then BC 29 March at 5300m.

  Sirdar Annu Sherpa and 6 H-A Sherpas.
  Oxygen, not for climbing, but for sleeping in BC C3 and C4.
  4 camps above BC.
  C4 = 6800m = attack camp

  2 summiters about 1 May
  6 Japanese members and Hirotami
  No doctor
  Nost difficult part of climb between C2 (6200m) and C4 - mixed rock and ice.


expid: CHRW78101
peakid: CHRW
year: 1978
route1: S Ridge-W Smt
nation: Japan
leaders: Yasuo Abe
sponsor: Chushin Branch of Nagano Mountaineering Association
approach: Kaphe Khola
bcdate: 1978-03-28
smtdate: 1978-04-23
termdate: 1978-05-04
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to deep snow and member illness
campsites: BC(28/03,4250m),C1,C2,C3(5300m),xxx(23/04,5900m)
routememo:
  Kobayashi, Deputy Leader - 1 May 78

  C3 5300m
  Other members a little altitude sickness
  Route finished to 5900m on 23 April (C4 6100m would have been) 
  Then gave up climbing 25 April because 1 member ill and too much snow; on 23 also much snow (about 1 meter). 
  Kozima sick 20 April in C3 right eye

  All others Ok
  Leave BC 4 May and reach KTM about 20 May 
  South Ridge route - very difficult


  SR Sharma, Tourism - 1 May 78

  Abandoned 26 April bad weather and rough route; could not climb above C3 because of weather. 

  All well except 1 member sick in eye
  Helicopter sent for him?


  SR Sharma, Tourism - 10 April 78

  BC at 4250m in Kaphe Khola 28 March 

  Leader Abe has pneumonia and is returning to KTM; deputy leader Kobayashi taking over leadership.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism Ministry - 28 March 78

  Forced to stop all activities because of snow (report dated 17 March). All at Gurjikhani village except leader, who is suffering from bronchitis and left party for 2 weeks to recover 2 days' walk away.


  Kobayashi - 16 Feb 78

  South Ridge to West Peak
  Approach, via Kaphe Khola to South Ridge
   6 now in KTM
   7 arrive 20th

  13 including 2 nurses at BC.
  Leave KTM 25th by bus, leave Pokhara 28th.

  Caravan 2 weeks to BC at 4200m 
  5 or 6 camps above BC with highest about 7000m
  Summit about end April

  3 HA Sherpas including Lobsang Tsering = sirdar
  No oxygen for climbing


expid: DHA178101
peakid: DHA1
year: 1978
route1: S Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Takashi Amemiya
sponsor: Tokyo Alpine Assoc Himalayan Exp to South Pillar of Dhaulagiri I
ascent1: 6th,7th
approach: Pokhara->Beni->Myagdi Khola (BC)
bcdate: 1978-03-17
smtdate: 1978-05-10
smttime: 1125
termdate: 1978-05-22
campsites:
  BC(17/03,3700m),Dep(18/03,4500m),C1(27/03,5200m),C2(02/04,5820m),C3(12/04,6500m),C4(22/04,7060m),C5(09/05,7500m),Smt(10-11/05)

routememo:
  Correct route for 1978 spring Japanese on Dhaulagiri I was South Ridge (according to Yves Pollet-Villard, Nov 1978)


  Shinizu - 29 May 78

  5 members now in KTM. Leader and others arrive 31 May or so.

  10 May summiters leave C5 6:00 am and on summit 11:30 am; returned to C4 4:00 pm. Good weather but moving in very strong wind, Kobayashi and Shigeno.

  BC->C1 glacier icefall - long way and wanted to make C1 at 4500m but avalanche danger prevented it - at 4500m had depot.

  C1->C2 - snow and ice face, very steep (60 degree) but no avalanche; steep part 500m vertical and all fixed rope; only room for 2 tents at C2 on small area.

  C2->C3 - 1st 100m rock face also 60 degrees; then knife-edge rock ridge; then again rock ridge so very steep required wire ladder (all members but only 5-6 Sherpas could negotiate wire ladders); then rock band traverse; then 500m rock ridge again C3 to C4 on 1st 100m of snow ridge; then snow and ice; 80m below C4 very difficult rock climbing. Only 3 Sherpas and 7 members reached C4.

  C4->C5 - all rock face to 7300m not difficult if no snow but this season much snow and which caused slipping (very small avalanches).

  C5->summit - very easy but long (5 km) - walking route from 100m above C1 to C5 all fixed rope - 6000m fixed rope used.

  On 11 May summiters: Shimizu, Y Kato, H Yoshimo and Ang Kami Sherpa; left C5 5:30 am, summited 12:30 pm, arrived C4 5:00 pm.
   
  Morning very good weather, 1:00 pm cloudy (rain at base camp but no snow high). Night time every day very strong wind and snow. 

  No accidents or frostbite; only Naganuma ill, he died HA sickness [causing him to fall?] and body buried in crevasse.

  All members to Japan together about 10 June.


  SR Sharma, Tourism - 11 May 78

  C5 7500m on 9 May.
   
  On 10 May 5:30 am started to climb and 11:25 am reached summit, stayed on top 45 minutes.

  South Pillar route; more dangerous and more difficult then other routes. 3rd Japanese attempt and 1st success by this route.


expid: HIME78101
peakid: HIME
year: 1978
route1: S Face-SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yoshio Ogata
sponsor: Yuki-To-Iwa-No-Kai Expedition
ascent1: 3rd
approach: Dordi Khola
bcdate: 1978-03-28
smtdate: 1978-05-06
smttime: 1315
termdate: 1978-05-15
othersmts: Climbed illegally Himalchuli West (HIMW-781-01)
campsites:
  BC(28/03,3650m),C1(01/04,4700m),C2(06/04,5500m),C3(19/04,6000m),C4(28/04,6500m),C5(04/05,7300m),Smt(06/05)

routememo:
  SR Sharma, Tourism - 2 Aug 78

  Leader of Himalchuli expedition barred from climbing in Nepal for 5 years from June 1978 as penalty for his expedition's climbing West Peak without official permission (West Peak not on permitted list).


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism Ministry - 20 June 78

  Himalchuli expedition said they had to climb W Peak to reach Main Peak, but they climbed W Peak day after Main Peak. Action will be taken against them, but when and what he cannot say.


  Ogata - 25 May 78

  All arrive KTM yesterday.

  West Peak by leader Ogata and Sugeno 7th May. North Peak not attacked. Very long way to Main Peak by Fujikura, Miyazaki and only Tamura. Only one attack on Main and W Peaks. Bad weather (snow and wind) prevented further efforts.

  C5 main summiters start 5:00 am, reached summit 1:00 pm and returned C5 8:00 pm. Very long: 3000m from C5 to Main Peak (route on ridge to Main Peak went behind West Peak and little bit down behind W Peak).

  Most difficult points in climbing were rock immediately below C2 and ice above C3. From 5050m to 6500m needed 3000m fixed rope. This the bottom of South Face to top where their route got onto SW Ridge from South Face.

  11 April Lhakpa Norbu Sherpa killed while returning to KTM which is why took so long to established C3: all distracted by his death. 

  All other Sherpas and all members good health. No accident or frostbite. 

  Sigenori Tamura used oxygen after summit, very tired and used oxygen for sleeping - only use of oxygen by summiters.


  SR Sharma, Tourism - 16 May 78

  Success - 6 May
  Kazumi Fujikura, engineer, born 3/50
  Hisawa Miyazaki, cook
  Sigenori Tamura, born 3/50, gardener

  C5 4 May 7300m
  Weather fine but rains and hails everyday since 6 May.
  Stopped climbing. All well.


  Ogata - 4 March 78

  Ogata was on 1974 Tukuche expedition.
  Route near same as 1975 expedition.
  1960 via Musi Khola east from Marshyangdi R to SW Ridge of other Peak 7371 to Himalchuli South Face.

  1975 Marshyangdi River to Dordi Khola to South Face, not SW Face.

  10 members leave KTM 7 March (all now in KTM).
  By bus Dumre bridge then caravan about 10 days with 130 porters to BC 4000m.

  8 Sherpas - 5 HA and 3 BC, Pasang = sirdar.

  Main summit 5-10 May 
  West Peak and North Peak and summit within 1 week of each other.

  3 porters, 3 members each for summit Main Peak
  6 members West Peak
  3 other members North Peak
  9 = all members Main Peak

  Team = 9 climbers and 1 Dr who stays at BC.
  Oxygen not for climbing, but sleeping in C6 only.


expid: DHA278101
peakid: DHA2
year: 1978
route1: E Ridge from S
nation: Japan
leaders: Yukio Ogawa
sponsor: Japanese Dhaulagiri II Expedition of Nagoya Alpine Club
ascent1: 3rd
approach: Pokhara->Beni->Myagdi Khola (BC)
smtdate: 1978-05-08
smttime: 0930
campsites:
  TempBC(3700m),BC(5000m),C1(16/04,5500m),C2(17/04,5900m),C3(29/04,6600m),C4(7250m),Biv(07/05,7550m),Smt(08/05)

routememo:
  Kawasaki - 23 May 78

  Arrived 2 days ago, others arrive KTM 26 May.

  1st attack: 2 members from C4 at 7250m Yamada and Takahashi but very long route on 7 May and left biv equipment at 7550m which next day, 8 May Ogawa and Koike used.

  Climbed by new route, East Ridge from South, very difficult rock band from TBC to BC. BC to C1 8 [hours?] and C1 to C2 5 [hours?]. C2 moved to 6050m because avalanches all time; 300 kg in depot and all taken away by avalanche; no one hurt.

  No frostbite or accidents.
  No summit assault after Ogawa and Koike because all oxygen used up.


  SR Sharma, Tourism - 12 May 78

  Success 8 May by East Face
  C5 on 5 May 7550m
  Summiters: leader Yukio Ogawa
                    Teruji Koike

  Summit 9:30 am from C5
  All well


  Mutho - 7 March 78

  Japanese Dhaulagiri II Expedition of Nagoya Alpine Club

  Same South face side to East Ridge route as 1975 Japanese team
  All members now in KTM; leave for Pokhara 10 March by bus
  Caravan starts 12 March, goes up Myagdi Khola to East (SE) Ridge at a col between Dhaulagiri II and point 6599. Arrive BC after 14 days at 4900m.
  4 camps above BC, C4 7300m
  Summit 1st week or 2nd week May
  5 Sherpas above BC, sirdar Pemba Nurbu
  No oxygen for climbing but for sleeping in C4


expid: JETH78101
peakid: JETH
year: 1978
route1: N Ridge from E
nation: Japan
leaders: Kazuhiko Yamada
sponsor: Himalayan Committee of Shinshu University
ascent1: 1st
approach: Silgarhidoti->Seti Khola->Chainpur->Dhuli->BC
bcdate: 1978-04-07
smtdate: 1978-04-27
smttime: 1420
campsites: BC(07/04),C1(12/04,4500m),C2(14/04,5500m),C3(20/04,6150m),Smt(27/04)
routememo:
  Mitsui - 26 Aug 78

  Correct local name for peak climbed is Jutibofurani.


  SR Sharma, Tourism - 2 Aug 78

  Leader of "Nampa" expedition barred from climbing in Nepal for 5 years from June 1978 as penalty for his expedition's climbing Jettiborani, which is not on permitted list and for which no permission given.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism Ministry - 20 June 78

  For background information only:

  Nampa expedition said the approach route they were permitted to use required them to climb "Nampa South" and LO agrees. Action will be taken against expedition, but when and what he cannot say.

  Iseki - 24 May 78

  Mitsui, Yoshido and Morota reached summit via East Ridge 27 April; only summit assault attempt; no oxygen with expedition.

  Top of ridge very sharp so made route just on north side of ridge. No avalanche problem: not much snow because wind took it away.

  1972 route from west and north very much more difficult because west side very steep. No accident or frostbite or illness. All very well.


  SR Sharma, Tourism - 9 May 78

  Nampa South 6940m Jettiborani
  Success 27 April by 
    Kazuo Mitsui, 25
    Hideki Yoshida, 23
    Norbuto Morata, 21

  Rest of expedition to be here by end of May.


  Ranjan Bhattacharya, Express House - 9 May 78

  Nampa leader came to KTM 7 May and went to Japan today. Others arrive 20th May. Climbed their peak on 27th April.


  SR Sharma, Tourism - 7 May 78

  Nampa camps:

  C1  12 Apr - 4500m
  C2  14 Apr - 5500m
  C3  20 Apr - 6150m
  C3 is to be their highest (last) camp, report received 5 May 78 said.


  Dr. Yamada - 4 March 78

  Jettiborani is real goal.

  1972 - Chanlia Khola and Rokapi Khola to west side of Jetti to North Ridge
  Present expedition: east side of Bankya Lekh:
  Salimor Khola to East Ridge or North Ridge from east side.

  Fly to Silgarhidoti and then to Seti Khola, Chainpur and Dhuli to BC
  Return: some via Dhangari, some via Jumla, or all via Doti.

  Request flights in 2 Otters one on 6th and one 7th but RNAC not confirmed. 
  Caravan maybe 2 weeks maybe more; difficult route and porters.

  40 days climbing, probably 3 camps
  C1  5000m
  C2  5800m
  C3  6400m
  Summit 6849m (not 6940m)

  No Sherpas above BC, no oxygen for climbing or sleeping.


expid: GAN478301
peakid: GAN4
year: 1978
route1: S Face-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Shigehiko Toyoda
sponsor: Nepal-Japan Joint Expedition to Mt Pabil
ascent1: 1st,2nd
countries: Nepal
bcdate: 1978-09-10
smtdate: 1978-10-20
smttime: 1245
campsites:
  BC(10/09,3700m),C1(13/09,4330m),C2(18/09,4900m),C3(22/09,5300m),ABC(25/09,5700m),C4(16/10,6600m),C5(19/10,6900m),Smt(20,22/10)

routememo:
  M Hashimoto & Yoshio

  BC - 10 Sept  - 3700m
  C1 - 13 Sept  - 4330m
  C2 - 18 Sept  - 4900m
  C3 - 22 Sept  - 5300m
  ABC  25 Sept  - 5700m
  C4 - 16 Oct   - 6600m
  C5 - 19 Oct   - 6900m
  Summit 20 Oct - 9 Japanese 
                  4 Nepalese     
         22 Oct - 2 Japanese
                  1 Nepalese

  3 weeks to C4 because 4 avalanche covered C3 and C2 with snow. In C3 5 Japanese members 7:00 am 5 Oct having morning tea when avalanche covered C3, but members cut tent and members got out Ok.

  When C2 hit (different day) no one there; all below for safety. 5 Oct evening avalanche in ABC. 6 members there; again all Ok. 

  ABC = snowhole and had to keep entrance open all night. After avalanching and realizing face direct means much fixed rope, decided to go over to SE Ridge (much equipment lost in avalanches including rope). About 9 Oct decided to go ridge. 

  20 Oct 1st summit attack one fixed rope: all together 
  1) Mingma Tenzing - C4 to top
  2) Sonam Wolang - C4 to top
  3) Thapa - C4 to top
  4) Tomita - 
  5) Yasuda
  6) Bhandari
  7) Okuma
  8) Yoshio
  9) Aoyagi
  10) Suzuki
  11) Shingi - C4 to top
  12) M Hashimoto - C4 to top

  Strong wind on summit and very cold; snow ridge very narrow; room only one man on top at a time. Left C5 7:00 am and C4 5:00 am. C5 waited for C4 to join them all up together. Reached summit 12:45+. Each back to camp which came from.

  22 Oct 3 members to top as given by Ministry; on 21 they reached C4.

  F. Suzuki and 2 others in support but not 3rd summit attack because now all tired.

  No accidents because 3400m fixed rope in place on face and ridge (1600m added to replace lost by avalanche). No sickness or frostbite. All members arrive KTM 4 Nov (except leader) and all in good health.

  Most difficult from ABC to C4: very steep blue ice. M Hashimoto made route. 

  Miss Oktari's summit 1st woman's 2nd ascent of 7000m peak in Nepal.

  They hoisted the National flags of Nepal and Japan on the summit with this success, altogether eleven Japanese and five Nepalese climbers have summited. 


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 21 Oct 78

  Ganesh IV from SE Face summit 20 Oct - 12:43 pm

  Yogendra Thapa 
  Mingma Tenzing Sherpa, head constable
  Wolang Sonam, head constable
  Kamal Bhandari, subinspector
  Hashimoto
  Y Hashimoto
  Yasuda
  Shinzi
  Tomita

  3 Yoshio
    Aoyagi
    Okuma
    Suzuki, T

  Left Kukhri on top and hoisted 2 flags. All 3 groups left summit at 13:20 hours.

  Reached C4. Biv 6600m where 7 climbers spent night of 19 Oct. Yesterday from C4 2 Japanese and 4 Nepal (arrived 19 Oct). On 20th all these 13 went to top. Finished climbing, all are well.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 10 Oct 78

  Not only C3 was hit by avalanche. Also C2 hit and personal equipment in C2 swept away. Route between C2 and C3 damaged. 


  Yoshio & Toyada - 17 Aug 78

  Pabil & Ganesh II in Ganesh Himal
  23,361 feet = 7120m )
  Never attempted

  BC at 3500m
  Route via South Face
  Above BC 300m rock climbing and snow face to C1
  C1 -> C2 glacier
  C2 -> C3 hanging
  BC -> C3 3000m vertical
  C3 up: ice and snow wall 1500m vertical, very difficult face.
  Would like to split route about C3 and same go off to right and thence to ridge.

  Yesterday decided to climb Ganesh II (7150m) next mountain east of Pabil, but not yet approved by HMG but Ra by police. Ganesh II also unattempted.
   
  From Pabil, Ganesh IV would approach via Ganesh II's East Ridge. 5 km from Pabil summit to Ganesh II summit. 

  All except Dr. in KTM now; main party leaves 25 Aug.
  7 police climbers on expedition 
  Arrive BC after 10 days
  Summit Pabil mid-Oct, only after Pabil summit reached will shift to Ganesh II assault. 

  On Ganesh II assault: 
  C6 Pabil summit
  C7 on ridge to Ganesh II
  C8 on ridge to Ganesh at 6900m

  ridge = snow and rock arete (knife ridge)
  No Sherpa HA porters, only climbing members from police + BC staff

  No oxygen for climbing.


expid: MANA78301
peakid: MANA
year: 1978
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Seiji Shimizu
sponsor: Japanese Expedition to Manaslu
bcdate: 1978-09-09
smtdate: 1978-10-07
termdate: 1978-10-11
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to deep snow and shortage of food
campsites:
  BC(09/09,4200m),C1(15/09,5350m),C2(18/09,5900m),C3(23/09,6500m),C4(27/09,7150m),C5(05/10,7500m),xxx(07/10,8000m)

routememo:
  Kato & Shimizu - 17 Oct 78

  Did no climbing on West Face. Only on NE Face but had received East Ridge permit and looked at it from BC but did climb on ridge because too difficult.

  C1 and higher camps where on NE Face. Highest point reached on 7 Oct about 8000m. Then deep snow and not enough food to wait for it. On 27 Sept tried summit attack. Deposited equipment at C5 site but bad weather. Stayed 3 days at C4 and then had to go down. Many avalanches on 23 Sept when Dhaulagiri I had accident.

  Had to stop because such deep snow would require 7-10 day's wait after 7 Oct and hadn't enough food for such a wait. Fixed ropes buried in snow. Much effort to get it out of and started avalanche. If good weather, 17 days BC to top possible with such small party.

  Dr to C2 - very costly route to C2
  No accidents, avalanche, sickness - all well.

  Shimizu wants Manaslu again. Kato wants Gosainthan (Shishapangma) joint expedition of 25, otherwise 2-man 8000m, Manaslu or Annapurna with skis if snow bad.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 12 Oct 78

  Abandoned due to bad weather; planned to make C5 at 7600m on 28 Sept and to attempt summit on 29th, but bad weather could not make C5 on 28 Sept. Had to wait for good weather until 5 Oct. 

  On 5 Oct 2 Japanese and 3 Sherpas went from C4 at 7150m (27 Sept) to pitch C5 at 7600m; had to pitch camp at 7500m and stayed there. On 6 Oct snowfall on C5.

  7 Oct weather little improved and 2 Japanese attempt summit; because of bad weather reached 8000m only. Too tired and weather very bad returned to C4 on 7 Oct. 

  Decided to leave BC 11 Oct. Health good.


  SR Sharma, Tourism - 17 Aug 78

  Manaslu expedition's permit was originally for East Ridge. Permission to switch from East Ridge to NE Face will probably be granted tomorrow.


  Shimizu & Kato - 18 Aug 78

  West Face route, same as 1971 Japanese route.
  Leader + Dr leave KTM 22 Aug by truck and bus and then walk about 14 days to 16 days with 50 porters. Kato by helicopter 20 days later.

  6 HA Sherpas including Sirdar Pemba Norbu.
  BC about 7 Sept
  Climbing time = 18-20 days
  5 fixed camps above BC, C5 about 7600m
  Use oxygen maybe only sleeping above 7500m probably; also C5 to summit.
  Most of route is difficult because rock wall of 100m overhangs. Shimizu was on route in 1971.


expid: LANG78301
peakid: LANG
year: 1978
route1: Lirung Glacier-E Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Akira Ban
sponsor: Langtang Lirung Expedition 1978 (Osaka Univ-Tribhuvan Univ)
ascent1: 1st
countries: Nepal
approach: Trisuli Bazar->Langtang Valley->Lirung Glacier (BC)
bcdate: 1978-09-09
smtdate: 1978-10-24
smttime: 0925
termdate: 1978-10-27
campsites: BC(09/09,4200m),C1(29/09,4800m),C2(15/10,5710m),C3(19/10,6280m),C423/10,6650m),Smt(24/10)
routememo:
  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 30 Oct 78

  Langtang joint team climbed summit 1st time by Seishi Wada and Pemba Tshering, 35, on 24 Oct via Lirung Glacier route.

  Wada 9:25 am
  PT   9:27

  From C4, established 23 Oct (6650m) in 3 hours 25 minutes. Hoisted flags of Japan and Nepal in 40 minutes on summit. Returned to C3 at 13:30 hours same day.

  Because of bad weather and very different route between C1 and C2 on Lirung Glacier, leader decided not send more summit teams and to leave mountain 27 Oct. Expected all in BC by 25 Oct. All are well.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 24 Oct 78

  Summit attempt today 24 Oct or tomorrow
  C2 15 Oct 5710m
  C3 19 Oct 6280m
  C4 to be made 22 Oct on SE Glacier at 6800m
  Seishi Wada and Pemba Tsering were to go to summit on 24th or if weather not favourable on 25th. 


  Ban - 2 Sept 78

  Tribhuvan University appointed 2 strong climbers as new members of expedition (so expedition now has 4 Nepali members). New members are:

  Pemba Tshering, summiter on Jannu and Dhaulagiri V (Spr 1978 Korean)
  Pemba Lama, Annapurna IV summiter

  In addition to these 2 Sherpa members, expedition will have 7 Sherpas (incl sirdar) above BC.


  Ban - 20 Aug 78

  Same route as 1961: from Lirung Glacier to East Ridge in 1961 on which reached 6460m (avalanche at 5600m at C3); C4 not made.

  2 members arrive 23 Aug, 7 already arrived; 2 members from Tribhuvan University who have no climbing experience but trekking.

  Leave KTM 3rd Sept. After 7-8 days via Trisuli reach Langtang village, thence east and north to BC on Lirung Glacier at 4000m. 120 porters.

  2 months for climbing, summit early Nov.
  BC  4000m
  C1  5000m
  C2  5600m
  C3  6300m
  C4  6800m

  Most difficult 2 icefalls from BC to C2, very dangerous. If reach East Ridge at 6450m, no real problems. Only real problems are avalanches: will study avalanches patterns and then choose safest route.

  Sirdar and 5 Sherpas
  Sonam Gyalzen (Italian Everest summiter) and with Everest RCC 1973.
  Have permit for next spring also in case of failure this season.


expid: PK2978301
peakid: PK29
year: 1978
route1: SW Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Fumio Tanaka
sponsor: Tsuragi Mountaineer Associate Peak 29 South West Wall Exped 1978
approach: Dumre->BC
bcdate: 1978-08-19
smtdate: 1978-09-11
termnote: Abandoned at 5940m due to fatal avalanche
campsites: BC(19/08,3950m),C1(27/08,4620m),C2(03/09,5240m),C3(10/09,5640m),xxx(11/09,5940m)
routememo:
  Tsuyama & Kamimuro - 22 Sept 78

  Tsuyama and 1 Sherpa arive KTM today. Avalanche from West Wall and C2 on SW Wall struck by blast of air pressure.

  Hisaji Banmi and Takahashi were on West Wall setting up to lift loads from 200m above C2 on West wall to C3 at 5640m. Were at about same altitude as C2. They were hit by blast and Banmi fell 20m into crevasse and Takahashi not found (maybe deeper in crevasse).

  Tanaka in C2, Ushigawa 1 meter from him. Ushizawa fell below C2 100m.
  Tanaka also fell about 20m but luckily stopped just in front of another crevasse.

  Penuri and Kayamori were inside C2 tent out of tent. Penuri also blown out of tent fell 20m through tent. 2 hours before very steep rock. Kayamori in far end of tent and not moved. Tent into 2 pieces.

  1 member and 1 Sherpa were in C3. Tanako called men down from C3 and up from C1. Those up from C1 found one body on way up. 

  Highest point by Misano, Pemba and Banmi on 11 Sept 300m above C3 and said route above very easy.

  No other accidents and success seemed sure. 4 yrs ago took 2 months BC->C3. Others arrive maybe 10 Oct. Wing in BC for instruction regarding bodies. Parents were not in Japan.  

  Tsuyama left BC 17 Sept and still looking for Takahashi body, then very tired.


  Tanaka & Miss Kamimure - 31 July 78

  Peak 29 - South Peak 7514m

  Tanaka was member of 1974 expedition to SW Wall. Present expedition same route (not West Face - that was not correct).

  Sherpas and baggage leave 1 August, 150 loads
  Members leave 2 Aug by bus to Dumre

  3 Aug advance party leave Dumre
  5 Aug main party leave Dumre

  BC established 16-17 Aug at 4150m (1974 expedition's C1) on Tulagi Glacier.
  6 high camps. C6 7300 on shoulder of South Peak. 

  Climbing South Peak 7514m only. 2000m from South Peak to Main Peak. 

  Want to climb South Wall, that is the important thing. This route is between West Face and South Face and is broken route following ice (staying off rock). In spring 1974 reached only C3's 5800m because of falling stone; in autumn (now) is colder and expect much less stonefall).

  No other expedition except 1974 has been on route expedition will follow

  1700 = height of wall (from C3's 5800m = ABC to South Peak)
  Last time 1974 C4 at 5400m, will this time be C2
  Summit 10-16 Oct

  Oxygen only medical (only 4 bottles)
  7 Sherpas including sirdar Penuri Sherpa


  Hawley Reuter's Report

  They had climbed from BC 3950m to C3 5640m in less than a month in contrast to a Japanese attempt four years ago which spent two months to cover this distance. And on 11 Sept, two members, Hisaji Banmi, of Showa plus a Sherpa, climbed 300 meters above C3 and reported that the rest of the route to their goal, the South Summit of Peak 29, appeared to be very easy.

  So by 14 Sept, the most difficult part of the climbing seemed over, and a team of men were engaged in setting up a winch to hoist loads of supplies into C3. Then at 11:00 am that day, an avalanche went hurling down the west wall of their mountain.

  Avalanches wreck havoc not only with the force and volume of their mass of snow, but also with tremendous air pressures that they create, and it was the blast from this avalanche, not the mass of the avalanche itself, that killed Banmi and two other Japanese, Yoshibumi Takahashi, 24 of Yokosuka city, Kanagawa prefecture, and Mamoru Ushizawa, 31, of Tokyo.


expid: TUKU78301
peakid: TUKU
year: 1978
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Teruo Kurosawa
sponsor: Nagai Alpine Club of Japan's Expedition to Tukuche Peak
bcdate: 1978-09-11
termnote: Abandoned at 5200m due to route too difficult
campsites: BC(11/09,4000m),C1A(27/09,4650m),C1B(04/10,4850m),xxx(5200m)
routememo:
  Takeda & Dr. Suda - 20 Oct 78

  Both camps were on SE Ridge. C1 made 26 Sept at 4650m. Made nw C1 4 Oct 4850m - new C1 is very near BC and wanted C1 at 4850m,but route to that site was very difficult and had avalanche, so carried baggage to 1st C1 and then moved C1.

  Kusakari, Sugawara and 2 Sherpas hit by snow between old and new C1's, near old C1 site on 20th Sept. Sherpas Nuru Zamba and Gyalzen Chaklang carrying heavy loads on fixed rope as different 2 Sherpas fell down cliff 20-30m and 200m move slipped on mere gentle terrain. 2 members were at between of cliff and they slipped 200m also. Member and 1 Sherpa only minor injuries but Nuru Zambu head skull fracture injury and unconscious and had to be dug out and revived; bad shock and confused. Brought to KTM hospital by helicopter after being carried to BC.

  After new C1, wanted make C2 at about 5300m and were putting in fixed ropes but reached only 5200m by Nakanishi and Thunakawa and then no route: very steep cliff SE Ridge or very soft rotten rock, so SE Ridge.

  Okuyama was sick from altitude and so Dr Suda went with him. Sugawara not ill really, only slight headache. Sherpa also not: carried baggage for ill Okuyama who could not carry his own.

  No other accidents; illness and no frostbite.
  Leave for Japan may be early Nov.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 10 Oct 78

  Tukuche abandoned 6 Oct; climbing route very difficult. 
  Had made C1 4700m 20 Sept.
  BC  11 Sept 4000m
  C1 highest point reached.


  Takeda & Suda - 30 Aug 78

  Larjung Khola to Point 4843m on Dhaula Himal map, thence west on Photorg Danda, traverse point 6482m and climb Tukuche via SE Ridge.

  BC at 3800m southeast point 4843m 
  C1 at 5200m on Photorg Danda
  C2    5800m on Photorg Danda
  C3    6400m beyond Point 6482 on Tukuche's SE Ridge

  6 members - all in KTM

  1 sirdar Tenzing Zambu and 5 H-A Sherpas
  Oxygen for medical only
  Route = SE Ridge between 6452m and Tukuche is steep ice; more steep is BC to C1 rock.

  Point 4843m to Tukuche = 11 km direct
  Leave KTM 4 Sept, by truck caravan start 5 Sept. 
  Arrive BC 15 Sept with 50 porters.
  Summit 15 Oct


expid: ANNS78301
peakid: ANNS
year: 1978
route1: SW Ridge-S Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Teruyuki Kouno
sponsor: Meiji University
ascent1: 4th,5th
approach: Pokhara->Modi Khola->Kyumrum Khola (BC)
bcdate: 1978-09-20
smtdate: 1978-10-16
smttime: 0845
campsites: BC(20/09,4820m),C1(27/09,5650m),C2(03/10,5850m),C3(13/10,6400m),Smt(16-17/10)
accidents: Sirdar broke right thumb
routememo:
  Ohmo - 3 Nov 78

  All members arrive yesterday afternoon.
  Route = SW Ridge, same as 1974 Gamagori Alpine Club (SW Ridge to South Face).

  Hoped to send 3 parties to summit, but 1 member (doctor) not climbing up and sirdar broke right thumb and put out of action.

  No accidents (except sirdars thumb), illness or frostbite.

  Ridge very knife-edged, steep in last part; on face most difficult part because so steep; ice and snow mixed. 

  Very strong winds on ridge and balance very difficult. Attack time no wind and very fine (no cloud) on face.

  Mitani and Nakanishi reached and summit 16 Oct; Kouno and Miyagawa on 17 Oct.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism Ministry - 8 Oct 78

  Annapurna South C1 established 27 Sept at 5650m


  Shaliendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 19 Oct 78

  C2 on 2-3 Oct at 5850m
  C3 on 13 Oct at 6380m - last camp 


  Kouno - 5 Sept 78

  Same route as 1974 spr Japanese SW Ridge; now young party
  Leave KTM 6 Sept
  Leave Pokhara 7 Sept

  Reach BC after 8 days with 111 porters via Kyumrum Khola. BC at 4800m. Route up east side of SW Ridge.

  C1 - 5600m
  Attact camp - 6300m
  Ridge very sharp and lot part above attack camp to is very steep snow. 

  1 sirdar Dawa Tsering and 3 HA Sherpas and 2 LA Sherpas to C1 only.

  Hope 5 members and 1 sirdar on summit in 3 parties. Doctor stays BC. 
  Summit about 20 Oct; if bad weather only 1 summit party.


expid: NILS78301
peakid: NILS
year: 1978
route1: E Ridge from N
nation: Japan
leaders: Kazuo Mitsui
sponsor: Nilgiri South Expedition of Shinshu University, 1978
ascent1: 1st
approach: Pokhara->Kali Gandaki->Mristi Glacier (BC)
bcdate: 1978-09-16
smtdate: 1978-10-10
smttime: 1415
campsites: BC(16/09,4040m),C1(19/09,4900m),C2(01/10,5470m),C3(08/10,6150m),Smt(10/10)
routememo:
  Mitsui - 26 Oct 78

  10 Oct very nice day, very clear and little wind. All 6 to top on 10 Oct. 9 Oct route making putting in ropes. C1 to C3 very dangerous icefall. Got onto East Ridge between SE Peak and South Peak near South Peak from north side. 

  All 6 arrive here this evening well but little frostbite. No accidents or serious illness.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 18 Oct 78

  All 6 members reached top 10 Oct 14:15 hours. 
  C3 8 Oct- 6150m
  Expedition finished - all well.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 10 Oct 78

  C2 1 Oct - 5470m


  Mitsui - 24 Aug 78

  3 members here now and 3 arrive tomorrow.
  1-3 Sept leave KTM. 3-5 Sept leave Pokhara. 12 days to BC via Ghasa and Thulobugin. BC on glacier east of peak at 4200m.

  Route up snow face to col between South and Central peaks and thence on snow ridge, North Ridge of South Peak to summit - or up ridge on east side of South Peak.

  C1 under icefall  4900m
  C2 top icefall on plateau - 5500m 
  C3 col or on plateau on east side 6300m

  Summit about 15 Oct.
  No oxygen for climbing or sleeping.
  1 sirdar Ang Temba - only Sherpa above BC.

  Mitsui has taken over leadership since Yamada banned from climbing in Nepal for 5 years after "Nampa" expedition.

  From Shinshu University. Climbed Jettiborani this spring - "emergency leader."

  Route up snow face to Col between South and Central peaks and thence on snow ridge. North Ridge of South Peak to summit.
  C1 under icefall 
  C2 top icefall on plateau
  C3 col or on plateau - 5500m


expid: DHA278301
peakid: DHA2
year: 1978
route1: S Face-E Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yasuo Onishi
sponsor: Kyoto Alpine League Himalaya Expedition 1978
approach: Pokhara->Chhonbardon Glacier (BC)
bcdate: 1978-09-12
smtdate: 1978-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to Sherpa's cold toes
campsites: TempBC(12/09,3700m),Dep(4600m),BC(24/09,5000m),C1(5800m),C2(6550m),C3(09/10,6800m),xxx(15/10,7500m)
routememo:
  Iwa-to-Yuki (1979)

  Iwa-to-Yuki reports that a tent at C3 burned down due to a gas leak which delayed the summit bid.


  Kawani - 1 Nov 78

  Reached TBC  12 Sept
          BC   24 Sept
          C3    9 Oct
  Highest pt - 15 Oct by Hiroyoshi Kawami and Sherpa Changri.

  14 Oct - fire in C3 by stove by Sherpa. 
  Attack day 15 Oct: late start and reached 7500m 4:00 pm; no time; Changri's toes freezing so turned back to save his toes. If final camp higher, think success. Very long way to summit.

  Only 3 climbing members:
    Onishi returned to Japan during approach march  
    Yasuda sick: pulmonary edema so stayed TBC; now in KTM Ok; no climbing at all.

  Attack day: Yoji Udagawa in TBC resting. Masaaki Kizaki in attack on 15 Oct but turned back 7300m because tired. So when not successful on 15 Oct, no one to make another attempt on summit. Hiroyoshi Kawami also tired. So climbing finished.

  Weather very good C1 and above; below C1 clouds and snow. 

  No accidents, frostbite or other illness. 
  Leave KTM after about 2 weeks.


  Onishi - 19 Aug 78

  Same route as this Spr. (Nagoya Alpine Club) East Ridge from South Face
  1971 Japanese Dhaulagiri V same route also)

  This only safe route from south - repeating route of this spring because already made plan and because approach very long via north.

  1978 spring: 9 Japanese climbers and 5 HA Sherpas
  All members in KTM 18 Aug 
  Leave for Pokhara 27 Aug; 14 days caravan to BC with 60 porters
  Temporary camp at 3700m
  BC  4900m in Chhonbardan Glacier
  C3  7000m

  1978 spring C3 6600m, C4 7250m; biv 7550m

  Most difficult part from C3 to summit because after ice face, high altitude for first time in Himalayas for all members.

  2 HA Sherpas
  No oxygen at all (1978 spr oxygen and in fact stopped climbing after 1st successful summit part on top because ran out of oxygen).


expid: DHA178301
peakid: DHA1
year: 1978
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Seiko Tanaka
sponsor: Japan Gunma Himalaya Expedition 1978
ascent1: 8th,9th
approach: Pokhara->Kali Gandaki->Chatan->BC
bcdate: 1978-08-22
smtdate: 1978-10-19
smttime: 1235
termdate: 1978-10-25
accidents: 3 killed by avalanche, 1 killed by fall
campsites:
  BC(22/08,4200m),C1(26/08,4850m),C2(30/08,5400m),C3(09/09,5850m),C4(21/09,6450m),C5A(02/10,6850),C5B(07/10,6950m),C6(14/10,7450m),C7(18/10,7800m),Smt(19,21/10)

routememo:
  Yagihara - 27 Oct 78

  Kogure alone at 6400m, about 7 ropes up above narrow C4 maybe slipped on ice ridge and then hanging; found in afternoon; he had left C4 8:00 am. 

  Normally 2-3 hours C4 to C5 and sent 2 members from C5 (Hajimo Abe and Kazumi Kaneko) to search and they found him dead; must have slipped at 8:30-9:00; maybe hit hard on ice.

  Body buried near C4. Could not carry down more, too difficult and dangerous.

  2nd summit success on 21 Oct, two days after first success.

  Yagihara should have gone to summit on 21 Oct, but instead had to take body down.
   
  SE Ridge route. Very long and very difficult. Found American red fixed rope (but could not use). Japanese got onto ridge below Americans point of getting onto it.

  Agreed "its a big mountain - too big for us."


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 22 Oct 78

  18 Oct established last camp C7 7550m.
  19 Oct 3 members reached summit, stayed 20 minutes, returned to last C7 same day.
  2nd ascent will be attempt on 20 Oct.
  3rd group will also try summit.


  Ranjain, Express House - 2 Oct 78

  Dhaulagiri I leader came to KTM via Jomsom to talk to his Japanese office; was here 3 days and left for BC by helicopter this morning.

  Expedition continues; bodies not found.


  Yagihara - 2 Aug 78

  SE Ridge, same at 1973 US 1st goal
  All except Dr. now in KTM; Dr. arrive 5 Aug
  Leave KTM for Pokhara 6 Aug; caravan starts 8-10 Aug with about 200 porters
  Reach BC in 10 days at 4200m

  So early because not much experience on Dhaulagiri I in autumn and want to be before strong winds.

  7 high camps, C7 at 7800m 
  Summit attack 1st week Oct, oxygen for climbing; have about 25 bottles.
  10 HA Sherpas and 6 low Sherpas from BC to C3.
  Lhakpa Tenzing = sirdar, but he not yet in KTM.

  Think BC to C4 most difficult part; above expect not so difficult: top ridge not so sharp in autumn because of snow; below C4 very steep rock.


expid: JANU78301
peakid: JANU
year: 1978
route1: E Ridge [to 6550m]
route2: S Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Rab Carrington
sponsor: British Jannu Expedition 1978
ascent2: 8th
bcdate: 1978-09-15
smtdate: 1978-10-21
smttime: 1130
termdate: 1978-10-25
campsites:
  BC(14/09,4800m),C1(29/09,5400m),Biv1(17/10,5800m),Biv2(18/10,6400m),Biv3(19/10,6600m),Biv4(20/10,7000m),Smt(21/10),Biv5(22/10,7000m),Biv6(23/10,6100m)

routememo:
  Jannu basecamp 14th Sept at 15,800 ft. 
  C1 on 29th Sept at 5400m
  S Ridge - no fixed camps 
  Summit 21 Oct by all 4 members.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 24 Oct 78

  Oct at 12:00 hrs because of bad weather climbers returned to BC after reaching 6500m will make last attempt. On 14th Oct at 8:00 am left BC going up.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 12 Oct 78

  Carrington and Rouse left BC on 28th Sept to go up. Hall and Baxter-Jones left BC 29th Sept and established C1 at 5400m that day. 2 members 30th Sept reached 5700m. 2 Oct Carrington and Rouse left BC to go up again and 3 Oct other 2 went up again. Weather, health good.


  All members - 18 Aug 78

  Leave Tuesday or Wednesday, 22 or 23 Aug. Photo app p. 84 Terray totally new route. Go up Yalung Glacier up E Face by one of several possible routes. Up to E Ridge via a subsidiary peak or up face all the way. Reach BC 10-14 Sept at about 14,000-16,000 ft. No fixed camps above BC but might leave dumps at high points. All 4 to climb together.

  No oxygen at all. No Sherpas above basecamp.


  From expedition report:

  Base Camp

  The base camp was situated on a small grassy terrace a hundred metres above the Yalung glacier and opposite the enormous East Face of Jannu. The giant mass of Kangchengjunga lay at the end of the glacier, while behind us lay Kabru.

  After a few days spent organising our tents, equipment and a kitchen our thoughts turned to Jannu and the problems it presented. The constant cloud of the monsoon had precluded a decent look at the mountain although we able to catch tantalising glimpses of huge rock and ice walls from time to time.

  On the 28th of Sept Alan and Rab established an advance base camp on the rocky spur which descends from the col. On the 30th they pushed up the lower slabby rocks to get a closer look at the route.

  Attempt on East Face via the col

  7th Oct:  In improving weather (in fact the end of the monsoon) we 
            head up to our advance base.
  8th Oct:  We reclimb the first thousand foot rock section and enter
            into a region of fluted snow runnels. The climbing becomes
            difficult and insecure and snow falls during much of the 
            afternoon and evening. We bivouac in convenient ice caves.
  9th Oct:  The weather is perfect in the morning. The route follows 
            shallow couloir with some difficult rock climbing. After
            nine pitches and in snowy weather we biv for the night.
  10th Oct: Two hundred feet of traversing across the fluted snow face
            on our left brought us onto the easy snowfield which we 
            had been hoping to reach. A long day of relatively easy 
            climbing bring us close to the col. Being an east face 
            the climb we have chosen is in the sun for much of the day
            and the snow conditions rapidly become unstable. We all
            feel tired from the effort as we biv that evening.
  11th Oct: By midday we reach the col at about 21,500 ft. The weather
            is excellent but we have used over half our stock of 
            food and fuel. We estimate that the route ahead would need
            at least another week of sustained effort. It seems
            pointless to carry on with this route, as the chance of 
            success is so small. We make the decision to retreat but
            wait on the col for the snow it improve as the sun leaves
            the face in the late afternoon. That evening we descend 
            to our biv site, arriving only after dark.
  12th Oct: A long serious of abseils brings us down to our advance BC.
            We evacuate advance Base and just make it back to base 
            before nightfall.

  Another attempt on the same route seemed pointless and as all the other routes on the East Face of Jannu appeared to be too dangerous it was necessary to consider an alternative plan of action. We therefore switched our attention to the French route on Jannu.


  Jannu from the southwest (the French route)

  To reach the French base camp from our base camp unfortunately entailed a walk of three days across the Lapsong La. To conserve our strength as far as possible we decided to enlist help where it was available.

  13th Oct: We spend the day at base camp resting and sorting out
            equipment.
  14th Oct: Heavily laden but aided by Padam we set off down the 
            Yalung Glacier to reach Ramshey at nightfall.
  15th Oct: As a family of yak herders is now temporarily resident at 
            Ramshey we persuade two of them to act as porters and help
            us carry our equipment over the Lapsong La. Padam returns
            to our base camp. We walk over the pass of the Lapsong La
            carrying only 20 kilos each. It feels pleasant to be 
            walking with a lighter sack even though we need to climb
            to 17,500 ft to cross the pass.
  16th Oct: We walked up the Yamatari glacier to biv below the start
            of the climb. A long day and by now we were carrying all 
            our own equipment again.
  17th Oct: The weather continues fine. We set off at dawn and pick 
            our way on throught the icefall. We follow the glacier to
            its head and climb. A short rocky setion still has traces 
            of old French fixed rope, the only evidence we are to see
            of the two previous ascents. We biv just below the site
            of the French camp three.
  18th Oct: Above the biv site a short but quite complex icefall leads
            on to a glacial plateau. Now the real difficulties of the
            route commence. A long and complex snow ridge leads from 
            the plateau to the Tete du Buttoir, a giant snowy 
            gendarme. After a series of complex and technically 
            difficult pitches in and around giant snow mushrooms we 
            reach a suitable site for our second biv, a little way 
            below the site of the French camp 4, (biv at 6400m)
  19th Oct: Two very difficult pitches lead to the end of the 
            mushroomed ridge. The traverse across to the Tete du 
            Dentelle includes some very deep powder snow and proves
            very time consuming. We have a discussion about the 
            feasibility of retreat especially if bad weather were to
            close in. One of the most disturbing features of the 
            eventual descent had climbed that day. There were no 
            anchors to abseil from and the pitches were too difficult 
            to climb back down. We decide that it should be feasible 
            to locate an alternative descent route on that snow to 
            reach the summit of the Tete du Dentelle. We biv a little
            later at a height of 6600m. A strong wind and driven snow
            make this a cold and not very pleasant night.
  20th Oct: We cross the plateau of the throne. Its heavy going 
            although in some places a usable crust has formed on the
            surface of the snow. A long slog eventually brings us to 
            a bergschrund below the summit walls. It is very windy and
            and there is a lot of spindrift so are grateful to fimd a
            reasonably sheltered bivouac site as of course we had no
            tents with us. We are still a long way from the summit but
            with the intense cold and strong winds we have no wish to
            linger. We must reach the top tomorrow or fail.

  The Summit day

  21st Oct: Just after midnight we start cooking breakfast, a tedious
            process which occupies us until half past three. The gas
            stoves are very inefficient in this extreme cold of around
            thirty degrees below zero centigrade. Our fingers are 
            likewise inefficient and each boot requires a major effort
            to be removed from the sleeping bag and placed on a foot.
            We are at an altitude of just below 7000m so we still
            have 700m to climb up and back down again in the same 
            day. The only way to cover such a distance at this 
            altitude without oxygen is to abandon all unnecessary 
            equipment. We decide to climb without any sacks at all but
            everybody slips a headtorch into their pockets along with 
            a few bars of fudge. We get away by half past three. The 
            cold is intense as we cross the bergschrund and start on 
            face. The snow conditions are good and this gives us great
            hope. The climbing is steep but fairly straight forward at
            at a standard of perhaps alpine T.D. We hope that it will
            become warmer when the sun comes up but in fact the wind
            just intensifies as we gain height and negates any warming
            effect that the sun might have had. After a tricky mixed 
            section of climbing we emerged on to the summit ridge 
            where we had to battle with a howling gale for the final
            easy but laborious section to the summit.
                
            At 11:30 am on the morning of the 21st of October we 
            pulled over on to the summit and quickly took a few summit
            within a few minutes of each other. We set off down almost
            immediately as it was essential to reach our sleeping gear
            before nightfall. A night without a sleeping bag under
            these conditions would almost certainly be fatal. We 
            rapidly climbed down the difficult terrain as we had 
            little spare equipment to abseil with. At about four
            o'clock we arrived at our biv site and crawled into our
            sleeping bags exhausted.
  22nd Oct: We descend the throne and recross the plateau. Our steps
            had consolidated on the Tete du Dentelle and aided our 
            progress. Occasional abseils and some tricky down climbing
            brought us down to an altitude of some 6200 metres where
            we biv in the fading light. The two worrying pitches near 
            the top of the ice ridge we managed to bypass via a steep
            snow wall and an abseil down a vertical ice wall from a 
            convenient snow spike.
  23rd Oct: We continue the descent as far as the Yamatari glacier and
            after a half hour rest we carry on down to the start of
            the Lapsong La. Everybody is very hungry and tired but 
            there is virtually no food left to eat, only a small two
            man pack of dried food. The dried food is all we eat that 
            day.
  24th Oct: The 4000 ft height gain to cross the Lapsong La goes very 
            slowly. We have now been on the move for 17 of the last 18
            days, with just one day of resting. For all of that time
            the days have been long and strenuous and we have eaten 
            very little food. Today our bodies complain and almost 
            refuse to operate without food. As we cross the Lapsong La
            night falls and we biv again in snowy weather.
  25th Oct: We descend to Ramshey, where we decide to abandon the 
            sacks to make walking easier. We can pick them up on the
            walk out - we will not need our climbing gear again on this
            trip. We are greatly heartened by the continuing presence
            of the yak herders and they provide us with tea and 
            cheese. A further seven hours walking brought us back to
            our base camp where we ate and ate before sinking into 
            deep sleep.

  We spent the next day resting and packing our equipment for the walk out. The porters we had ordered arrived as planned on the 27th October and that day we set off walking downt the glacier again. The porters walked very well on the way out and we reached Yamphodin in three days. A further three days brought us to Taplejung, where we took a well earned days rest. This was only our third day's rest in the last twenty six days. As we were walking with only eight porters on the way out everything went faster than on the walk in and we arrived in Dharan Baazar on the 7th of Nov. A bus took us back ot KTM the next day and by the 16th of Nov we were back in Britain.


  Report

  After the first few days at BC, organizing tents, equipments preparing a kitchen, etc., our thoughts turned to climbing Jannu.

  However on the 21st Sept we decided to make an extended recce to get a better view of the bowl of the East Face of Jannu and also to test our equipment and improve acclimatization. 

  Accordingly we climbed up the glacier wall opposite BC to reach the level of the upper glacier. Unfortunately it started to snow soon after we left the glacier floor and continued to do so for several days. Therefore we were in a poor position to observe the various possible routes on Jannu but did make a good test for the equipment.

  On the 28th Sept Alan and Rab opened up a route to establish a ABC at the foot of a rocky spur leading down from the col and on the 30th pushed on up the lower slabby rocks to get a view of the route. It looked feasible. Three days later they had a second attempt but snow forced them to retreat having reached their previous high point and bivouacked there. While this was going on Roger and Brian further equipped Advance BC. After 24 hours of snow we all returned to BC.

  Col Route Attempt - East Face attempt

  Having made a couple of attempts on the route already we realised that our main problem was going to be the weight of rucsacs. We therefore decided to cut our weight right down by the following methods: bivy sacks were substituted for the lightweight tents, gas stoves substituted for paraffin stovess, food and climbing gear reduced.

  7th October: weather improved, we head up to ABC.

  8th October: weather fine and bright. We scramble up the initial rocks then continue up the fluted snow runnels above. The snow is very bad and progress arduous and slow. Bivouac in ice cave.

  9th October: still good weather. The route follows a bit of couloir with rock pitches intermingling with snow. We climb about nine pitches and biv for the night. From here one pitch leads onto the snow shelf which leads to the Col.

  10th Oct: a long way though easy climbing. We gain a lot of height by way of this shelf and biv just below the Col. Being in East Face we are in the sun all day and consequently the snow turns bad quickly and also we tire quickly.

  11th Oct: clear weather as we climb up to the col. On the Col we take stock of the situation: we are climbing slower than anticipated the way ahead looks very difficult and time consuming. We are also running short of food and gas. The result of this is that we will have to retreat.

  12th Oct: continue our retreat, reach the glacier, evacuate Adv BC, return to BC. The weather is still good.

  We are now faced with a bit of a problem: to climb the col route will take more time than expected consequently we will need more food. We cannot carry more food as we are already loaded to capacity. Our resources are becoming depleted. From all these different points we decided that it was impossible for us to climb the Col route up the East Face of Jannu.

  We, therefore decide to switch our attention to the French Route up Jannu. To do this we can further reduce the weight we would carry by a reduction in equipment.

  French route attempt: To reach the foot of the route necessitated a walk of several days.

  14th Oct: packed our equipment for the climb and set off walking down the glacier to Ramshey.

  15th Oct: hired two porters and crossed the Lapsong La to reach the Yamatari Glacier.

  16th Oct: walked up the glacier to the foot of the climb.

  17th Oct: started the climbing. Following the side glacier we pick our way through the icefall. We followed the glacier to its head then climb up the back slope to reach a rocky ridge. Here we stopped for the sight at a height of 5750m.

  16th Oct: above the biv site we had to find a route through the second icefall to reach the upper glacier which again we followed to its head then climbed up a back slope to reach a ridge. This was a very be-mushroomed ridge but would have to scaled in order to reach the throne which is situated below the summited triangle. The ridge proved to be awkward climbing: the mushrooms were unstable, the snow rotten and most of them had to be bypassed on the south flank of the ridge. That night we bivouacked below an ice cliff at 6400m.

  19th Oct: a further two pitches of difficult climbing leading to the end of the ridge. A short traverse and a wall of very bad snow led to the Head of the knife. Here we had a short discussion of tactics in event of a retreat, we had to treat this very carefully as we were carrying so little climbing equipment. After deciding that retreat was open to us under all circumstances we continued to the Head of Lace then to the platform just before the throne. Here we bivouacked at a height of 6700m.

  20th Oct: we cross the plateau and follow the snow slope up to the foot of a spur of rocks which stretch down from the summit. We spent the night in a bergschrund at a height of 7100m.

  21st Oct: our tactics from here was to leave our equipment in the bergschrund and, carrying only climbing equipment and day food  make a quick attempt for the summit. By the light of head torches we left at 3:30 am and climb a 50-degree ice slope which leads up to the ridge over looking the Yalung Glacier. From here an icy couloir leads up through rocky buttresses which leads to a snow ridge. The wind is extremely strong and it is bitingly cold. Against this wind we force our way up the ridge to the summit which we reach at 11:00 am. Time was barely spent on the summit to take photographs before we started the descent. We down climbed the line of ascent to our biv which we reached at 3:00 pm.

  22nd Oct: we continue our descent, back across the plateau, and back down the ridge. Most of the way we down climbed though we had to make use of occasional abseils. Biv at 6100m.

  23rd Oct: Descend back down to the Yamatari Glacier which we reached just before midday and immediately continued down the Glacier to spend the night at the start of the Lapsong La.

  24th Oct: we recross the Lapsong La. A snow storm hinders our progress and fatigue and hunger made load carrying extremely exhausting. We spent the night under some boulders just below the Lapsong La.

  25th Oct: Descend to Ramshey where we get some tea and cheese from the yak herders. Here we left our rucsacs and returned to BC very tired but contented.

  Conclusion:

  The East Face of Jannu is complicated and rather dangerous mountaineering problems. All of the likely routes are threatened seriously by icefalls.

  Take expedition repeated the original French Route on the mountain taking 4-1/2 days for the ascent and 2-1/2 days in descent.


expid: JANU78101
peakid: JANU
year: 1978
route1: N Face
nation: USA
leaders: John Roskelley
sponsor: American Jannu Expedition 1978
smtdate: 1978-04-13
termdate: 1978-04-15
campsites: BC(4420m),C1,C2(5800m),xxx(13/04,5800m)
routememo:
  Roskelley - 29 April 78

  4 or 6 members next time on an expedition. Kim's cough tearing apart his ribs - when a guy's a sick and you're only 2, you can't take a chance. All the gear was at C2 at 18,500-19,000 ft. Went past C2 above the neve. At least 3 weeks more of climbing left. Route super safe - was on New Zealand route, any other would have been impossible without more people.


  SR Sharma, Tourism - 19 April 78

  On 13 April while going to make C2 when at 19,000 ft, Kim Schmitz became ill and therefore abandoned ascent. Reached BC 14 April. Now going to Kangchenjunga side - coming to KTM in a week.


  Roskelley & Schmitz - 7 March 78

  North side - hope different route from New Zealanders
  5 members - maybe some above base but probably not.

  Sonam Girme sirdar, but no Sherpas above base (no insurance or equipment for it). Fly Biratnagar 9th. From Dharan 11th and 17 days trek to base at 14,500 ft (same as New Zealand). 3 camps to the big face and probably from there a hanging tent and alpine-style. Highest camp maximum 19,000 ft.

  Maximum 30 days climbing. No oxygen at all.


expid: LSHR78301
peakid: LSHR
year: 1978
route1: SE Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Josef Fauchere
sponsor: Swiss Belgium Lhotse - Autumn 1978
countries: Belgium
approach: Khumbu Valley->Chhukung (BC)
bcdate: 1978-11-16
smtdate: 1978-11-24
termdate: 1978-11-29
termnote: Abandoned on 25 Nov due to terrible winds and lack of time
campsites: BC(16/11,5300m),C1(5600m),C2(5800m),xxx(24/11,6300m)
routememo:
  Expedition's goals were to scale Lhotse and do research on cardio-vascular adaptation to high altitude. Came to Nepal very late in season, delayed by professional duties at home. From 2 Dec and no wind at all on 5 Dec. On 24 Nov attempted to pitch C3 at 6400m but had to retreat 100m below its site: impossible to stay at these altitudes because of terrible wind. Left BC 29 Nov for KTM.


  Dr. Wibin, Swiss Lhotse Expedition - 9 Dec 78

  From Col between Lhotse and Island Peak; SE Face = new route
  BC at 5300m on 16 Nov just when Island Peak on border of moraine; cross glacier to reach face.

  2 goals:
  1) to climb Lhotse
  2) research on cardio-vascular adaptation to H.A. Very careful cardiac examination at Geneva University before exercise during and after with blood samples taken. Will do same again in Geneva next March (11 Dec) to see if difference in oxygen consumption by cardiac muscle after long stay at H.A. People thought could not climb 8000m without oxygen.

  Wind was increasing since Nov 11th and decreasing from Dec 2nd just when we came down, and almost no wind at all Dec 5th. Pilots say jet stream not yet really built up. Could not climb above 6500m so experiment not complete: members should stay for 2 weeks at least at 7000m to see effect on cardiac oxygen consumption (cardiac metabolism).

  If true there is effect on heart after long stay at H.A. Of importance to mountaineers and others such as Olympics at Mexico City.

  9 members, leader Josef Fauchere, mountain guide; all members Swiss except Wibin who is Belgian.

  4 HA Sherpas; Ang Tsering, sirdar of Namche: was on 
    Japanese 1976
    Japanese 1975 Everest
    Italian  1973 Everest

  Had 2 high camps
  C1 at 5600m
  C2    5800m

  During attempt to establish C3 at 6400m had to retreat because impossible to stay there with terrible wind; reached Friday 24 Nov 100m below C3 site = highest point reached. Left BC on 29 Nov to KTM.

  Were unable to come earlier because of professional duties at home; if come again will come earlier.

  Fauchere was with Dolf Reist (76) for 20th anniversary of Swiss ascent of Everest; went to Khumbu together.


expid: CHOY78301
peakid: CHOY
year: 1978
route1: SE Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Eduard Koblmueller
sponsor: Austrian-German Team on Cho Oyu in Autumn 1978
ascent1: 3rd
countries: W Germany
approach: Gokyo Valley
bcdate: 1978-10-13
smtdate: 1978-10-27
campsites: BC(13/10,5000m),C1(15/10,5250m),C2(18/10,6600m),C3(25/10,7400m),Smt(27/10)
accidents: Nothing except Haberl slight frostbite
achievment: 1st ascent of this face
routememo:
  Kolbmueller - 1 Oct 1996

  "Very difficult technically - it was my best and most difficult climb except perhaps K2". Climbed without permit because it was impossible to get one in 1978. Got the idea of this great wall to climb from Messner's writing about it as a wall that will not be climbed in many years. Team had only 8 loads of baggage and were on a trekking permit for Gokyo - members only (no Sherpas). Ferried loads in 2 days to BC. Summit reached on 27 Oct at about 6:00 pm, as sun was disappearing; saw Everest and everything from top - returned to cave at 10:00 pm and others were waiting there: Haberl had turned back at 8000m because of toes frostbitten day before and others 2 had turned back at 7800m. When had descended to camp at 6600m there was very heavy snowfall and they had to stay there without fuel and food - there was avalanche danger but they were not hit.


  Stefan Woerner - 23 May 86

  Woerner & Haberl doubt Koblmueller climbed SE Face - think they did Tichy route - SE Face is very dangerous.


  Messner - 19 March 82

  Austrians surely scaled Cho Oyu in '78 (via SE Face). Messner has seen their pictures.


  Ohmari, et al, Japan Cho Oyu expedition - 5 June 81

  We don't believe Austro-Germany '78 party reached Cho Oyu summit via South Face because it's very difficult and great danger from daily avalanches. No sign of previous climbers on south side of Cho Oyu.


  Hermann Warth - 12 June 81

  Gunter Hauser did not believe Austro-Germans reached summit and DAV did not also.


  Jan Boon - 15 April 78

  While in Khumbu recently Boon met 3 Austrians on 4 Nov who said they had just climbed Cho Oyu by its East Face alpine-style. They had their Sherpas leave all baggage somewhere short of BC and the Austrians themselves ferried it to BC. The face was extremely difficult, nearly vertical snow and ice and they had a heavy snowfall. One member's fingers were black with frostbite. Boon got no names, but they said they planned to tell their story to Alpininmus and the Austrian Alpine Journal.

  All previous expeditions to Cho Oyu were on the West Ridge - West Face route.

  Boon believes they reached the summit because one said they had a fine view of Tibet and this view they would have had only from the top, Boon says.


  Ministry of Tourism - 23 Dec 1979

  His Majesty's Government of Nepal has decided to prohibit following persons for a period of five years from entering into the Kingdom of Nepal for non-complying Mountaineering Regulation 1976 and climbing Cho Oyu, an unopened peak, without the permission of HMG in October 1978.

  Alois Furtner, Dr. Peter Von Gizicky, Dr. Gerhard Haberl, Eduard Koblmueller, Herbert Spousta.


  Expedition Report, Alois Furtner - 20 Jan 1979

  The "poor trekkers" (in the eyes of the natives they even looked as a trekking group rather unsophisticated and miserable) lugged 250 kg to the base camp: inclusive everything, three tents, food for three weeks, climbing gear as was used for the Eiger-North Face, medicine, down clothing. 50 kg for every man and that on his own back, because the yaks on the Gokyo-Alm, 4750m, refused to continue the march because of heavy snowfall.

  At last, the base camp, a single tent at 5000m at the foot of the 3000m Cho Oyu South Face. Three weeks time were available for the ascent. The peak had to be reached within this time. The highland storms, up to 200 km/hr of Tibet, render any further advancement above 7000m impossible.

  Information about the nature of the wall were not available to the pioneers. Till now a serious attempt to climb this mountain had never been made.

  Three problems were recognized from the base camp; firstly a 1000m high ice-saturated rock pillar which was going to lead on to a high plateau; secondly the crossing of the three km long plateau, bordered by avalanche-walls; and thirdly the determining peaks wall of 6000m to 8150m.

  One could foresee the difficulties: ice troughs in the lower part of the wall, with danger of rolling stones, nerve-wracking crack work at the high plateau, and the overcoming of the steep wall belt in the already very thin zone between 7000 and 7500m.

  The advance troop comprised of Edi Koblmueller, Herbert von Gizycki, and Alois Furtner. A week later Spouster and Gerd Haberl caught up with them. By the way, the idea of the Cho Oyu South Face came from Gerd Haberl. So, first of all, the outsiders had to pave a way across Nepal's largest glacier, the Lungsampa Glacier. A general expedition problem which causes without Sherpas and by new snow fall considerable hardship and trackwork. At the foot of the wall the most economic and surest slip through had to considered among many possibilities: as how to reach the plateau 1000m above. Except for tremendous heat reflection, the plateau itself did not cause any great difficulties. At the foot of the wall an ice cave was erected.

  This rather easy provisional success generated a dangerous optimism. Koblmuller even toiled with the thought of ascending the peak within one go. But the lack of acclamatization put a stop to these daring reflections.

  In high spirits three descended back to the base camp. After a few rest days, five of them would undertake the only and direct advance to the peak. Everything went according to schedule: safe route, constant weather, no high altitude sickness. The team had a bite and was prepared to mobilize the last reserves.

  After ten days of expedition the whole team was assembled in 6000m, C2, below the peak wall. First of all the steep wall belt had to be overcome. Koblmuller and Haberl undertook the task and fixed 350m of rope at a risky passage for the descent. Here was a hard nut to crack. Up to 70 degrees of steep bare ice, partially saturated with rock, and steep troughs filled with powder snow. During this work Haberl had seven fingertips frozen and because of this the peak had moved for him into a far distance, but not altogether unreachable.

  Two ice caves in 7400m served as Camp 3; poorly, spartanic and practical planned, it was starting point for the onslaught on the peak.

  The climbing on ice and the fixing ropes did cost a considerable amount of energy, so that the following day had to be spent in preparations and resting. Austrian Nation[al Day] is on 26th October. National day was also observed by the team at 7400m.

  Nevertheless, the next morning all of them left the camp at six o'clock in direction peak. Haberl and Furtner tracked ahead. Hour by hour went. From Tibet the wind carried 100m long snow flags over the Cho Oyu peak. Like ants the five barebooters crawled towards the peak. The advance troop might have just crossed the 8000m line. High time, the clock is already showing 16:00 hours.

  At this point the peak seemed to be very near but unreachable. The last 150m reared up to a steep ascent. Similar to the foam cloud at the Konigspitz N Face. Haberl decided to return. Because of his frozen fingertips he had to give up. Also the two from Munich, Gizycki and Spouster descended, they were not willing to risk a descent during the night.

  Koblmuller and Furtner were the only two left in the hip-deep snow below the seizable peak. Step by Step Koblmuller crawled upwards till the snow turned softer and the rest of the slope turned into a 60 degree steep bare ice trough. Without protection, each one for himself, zig-zagged upwards. After one hour of robot-like climb, they literally stumbled onto the flat roof of the Cho Oyu 8153m.

  After a 2 weeks expedition the team had reached its goal. The shortest of a 8000m ascent in history and that across one of the largest walls [Messner and Habeler faster on "Hidden Peak" in 75]. Everything went according to plan till the day of the peak descent, it turned out to be a race with the avalanche.

  Bad weather started to set in one day after the peak victory and the group was snowed up in 6000m height. Two meters of new snow nearly unleashed a disaster.

  Sunk into snow up to the stomach the team dug itself across the plateau to reach the base camp. A stretch which needed two hours to cover, was made in two days. The nights in the ice-caves at 7400m demanded their tribute. With last efforts they dragged themselves to the base camp on 1 Nov 1978.


expid: NUPT78301
peakid: NUPT
year: 1978
route1: N Face
nation: UK
leaders: Doug Scott
sponsor: British Nuptse North Face Expedition
countries: USA
approach: Lamosangu->Rowaling->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1978-09-23
smtdate: 1978-10-10
termdate: 1978-10-12
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(23/09,5400m),C1(25/09,6000m),C2(28/09,6500m),xxx(10/10,6800m)
routememo:
  Doug Scott - 14 Oct 78

  Mike Covington stopped in Namche to marry a Sherpani aged 20 from Namche whom he has known for 1 year, then he will lead trek in Khumbu and Rolwaling. Joe Tasker and Scott arrived in KTM yesterday and all well now. Mike had lot of trouble on approach: hypothermia (cold) and pneumonia; at BC liver area pain; against all odds joined in at end to C2.

  Joe and Doug did 3 carries through icefall and got everything ready and then snowfall; receiving less and less sun, and snow not shifting and couldn't make any headway in this deep snow. Last 300 feet below 22,500 feet took 6 hours so realized at this rate would take 10-5 days without more snow and didn't have enough food. In autumn so much snow only safe way is by fixed rope and Sherpa support. Spring is the season for alpine-style climb. One sure could have done job with ropes and Sherpas.

  Mike watched only from C2 because not strong enough to go up; gave up all climbing on 19th Oct. Mike arrived C2 on 9th with Doug and Joe.

  High snowfall dumped 6 feet on C2, tent buried but was dug out Ok; members then at C1 for supplies.

  Highest point reached: 22,500 feet by Scott and Tasker on 10 Oct.

  Doug leaves KTM Mon evening.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 12 Oct 78

  Abandoned 11 Oct. Reached 6800m but due to bad weather and wind decided to abandon. Left BC this afternoon for Lukla (arrived BC this am).


  Shailendra Raj Sharma - 10 Oct 78

  3 in C2; not able to make further progress because bad weather and high wind since 5 Oct. Route had been made above C2 has to be replaced [Scott said tent buried in 6 feet snow but not destroyed]. Will abandon on 14 Oct if no improvement.


  Scott - 30 Aug 78

  Rib that leads straight up North Face to summit. 
  No Sherpas, no oxygen, no fixed rope camps on face.

  Leave Sat 2 Aug walking via Rolwaling. 18 days to BC with 20 porters.

  BC at foot of Icefall. Ang Phurba (on Everest in 1975 autumn) at BC. When get loads through, pull up C1 at top of icefall and make C2 at 21,700 feet at bottom of face; no fixed camps above C2.
   
  Face: steep at bottom rock, snow and ice; above 24,000 ft danger would be big avalanches.

  This why were going late: hope wind will blow it all off. "Not arriving until we finished last time" [1975 autumn Everest]. Scott and Haston studied North Face Nuptse in 1975. Haston was to come with Scott.

  But could be mere up to one knees in powder snow.
  If all goes well from BC to summit in 3 weeks; might to do it in a week.


  British Nuptse North Face Himalayan Expedition 1978 -Patron Sir Jack Longland.

  On 28th Sept Tasker and Scott established C2 in the Western Cwm about half a mile from the German/French C1 and just opposite the North Buttress of Nuptse. The team had so far followed the Icefall route pioneered and maintained by the Everest Expedition which enormously assisted their progress (some materials and labor was however put into remaining bridges as and when the moving ice destroyed them).

  The North Face of Nuptse was plastered in fresh snow the result of a big storm that had deposited 3 meters of snow in the Western Cwm prior to the Nuptse team's arrival. It was hoped that over the next two weeks this snow would either consolidate or be off the mountain leaving ice or hard packed snow suitable for climbing.

  Unfortunately more snow fell on 1st Oct and then again on 4th Oct for 3 days during which 8 feet of snow fell at C1 where Tasker, Scott and also Covington were camped (various medicaments given by the German and French Doctors appeared to have enhanced Covington's recovery).

  The snow conditions on the North Face of Nuptse were now not at all encouraging and neither the prospects. Being a north face there was little, if any melting and nor were there any strong winds.

  On 9th Oct, Tasker, Scott and Covington arrived at C2 with enough food and equipment to spend up to 7 days on Nuptse North Face. Tasker and Scott had humped most of the provisions up to C2 just before the the storm of 4th Oct.

  On 10th Oct Tasker and Scott set out to the low part of the face. At first there were grounds for optimism as hard as snow and ice patches were encountered which allowed for rapid progress but soon the snow deteriorated into soft, waist-deep snow covering the steep rocks.

  It took 5-1/2 horus to gain 200 ft and so with the prospect of deeper snow and and 5000 ft of climbing to go the attempt was abandoned at 22,500 ft under the certain knowledge that two climbers could not sustain such a climb to the top in the conditions prevailing. It was impossible to carry the provisions needed and to maintain light enough rucksacks to move in alpine style.

  The mountain was abandoned and all the equipment (except for 4 pitons) was recovered and taken in huge loads down to BC and back to KTM.


expid: PUMO78301
peakid: PUMO
year: 1978
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Romolo Nottaris
sponsor: Mountaineering Expedition of Ticino Canton to Pumori
ascent1: 9th-11th
countries: Italy, USA
approach: Lamosangu->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1978-10-03
smtdate: 1978-10-18
smttime: 1200
campsites: BC(03/10,5300m),C1(11/10,6120m),C2(16/10,6500m),Smt(18-19,22/10)
accidents: Dr Chiesa died of high altitude sickness 25 Oct in KTM
routememo:
  Bigio (& Nottoris) - 25 Oct 78

  Route was SW Ridge. Problem of much snow as on Nuptse. In beginning: 1 day after reached BC had 2 days and waited for it to avalanche (put advance camp lower to get supplies somewhere before could go up).

  C1 on col 6120m 11 Oct just 10m below arete dug hole in ice for 3 tents: camp on not possible because of wind

  Opened new way above col. Rock passage of 40 degrees very difficult; made C2 then at 6500m 16 Oct.

  Had some wind but not terrible. 

  Summit on 18th by Tettamanti, Zimmermann and Sganzini. Left C2 at 3:00 am and on top at noon. Very cold (-25 degrees C) with head lamps and nearly full moonlight. Left so early because such long way. Returned to C2 at 6:00 pm after dark very delicate snow-covered arrete enroute.

  Next day, Nottaris, Zuend and Pasang Norbu to top. 2-3 hours less time going up because track already made.

  22 Oct Korell, Burmann and Ponzio reached summit: on top about 10 am after 3:00 am departure.

  Others to reach KTM on 31 Oct, now in BC. Nottaris goes to BC tomorrow in helicopter returning. No other attempts for summit. Bigio supposed to be with 3rd group but pulse too fast.

  No accident, frostbite, etc - no trouble except doctor Chiesa.

  Ama Dablam and Germans on Everest gave oxygen for doctor when heard of Dr's trouble.


  Dr. John Dickinson - 25 Oct 78

  Chiesa died this morning about 5:30. Never was breathing for himself - effects of high altitude. This is a problem for doctors: there is no one to care for them when they themselves become ill.


  Bigio (Crystal Hotel)

  Dr Chiesa from Pheriche 4-5 days ago pulmonary and cerebral edema. Bigio, Chiesa and Nottaris arrived by helicopter. Carried from BC to Pheriche. Never acclimatized but wouldn't go down says Peter. To hospital very ill, unconscious and not breathing by himself.

  Chiesa was unconscious and unable to breathe without artificial assistance as he was lifted from the helicopter and rushed to hospital here. An American Doctor, Peter Hackett, who spends much time in Nepal studying and caring for cases of high altitude sickness was at the Nepal Rescue Association's rescue post not very far from the Swiss BC. The leader of the expedition, Romolo Nottaris and a member Vittorio Bigio, accompanied Chiesa to KTM, taking turns working the rubber bladder which was pumping air into his lungs. He is suffering from both cerebral and pulmonary edema, which means that body fluids have not been normally eliminated and instead have collected in his head and lungs.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 22 Oct 78

  Summit 18 & 19
  18 Oct Fausto Tettamanti (deputy leader), Zimmermann, Claude

  19 Oct 1) Romolo Nottaris, leader
         2) Tiziano Zuend
         3) Sirdar Pasang Norbu Sherpa, 25

  No news re-further climbing, weather or health. No camp news above BC.


  Afshar - 14 Sept 78

  SW Ridge route of Japan 1973, etc. Technically challenging and this team has almost no expedition and Himalayan experience.

  All in KTM: Afshar arrive 8 days ago and rest yesterday
  Leave KTM 16 Sept, by road to Lamosangu and walk
  150 porters
  8 Sherpas and sirdar above BC
  BC little higher than Gorak Shep at 5200m
  2 or 3 high camps with highest about 6600-6700m
  25 days BC -> summit 
  Oxygen medical only


expid: TILI78301
peakid: TILI
year: 1978
route1: NE Spur-N Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Roger Emin
sponsor: Exped. of the Peloton Gendarmerie de Haute Montanne de Chamonix
ascent1: 1st
approach: Dumre->Marshyangdi Valley->Tilicho Lake (BC)
bcdate: 1978-10-01
smtdate: 1978-10-10
smttime: 1515
termdate: 1978-10-14
campsites: BC(01/10,4900m),C1(08/10,6100m),Smt(10/10)
routememo:
  Schmutz - 1 Oct 84

  Indignantly denies 1978 ascent was via East Ridge and only to an East Summit; were definitely on North Ridge to main summit.


  Dr Joerg Beil (German-Swiss Tilicho exped Spr 1980) - 3 April 80

  French Tilicho: Aut 1978. Biel thinks French climbed East Ridge to an east summit only, not main summit.


  Tilicho leader (Emin) - 18th Oct 1978

  Very poor, only 1 Sherpa.

  If send more to summit would take 1 week to put them there with supplies which members must carry up. 70 cms snow and wind - often 1 hour, no tracks - for descent no tracks.

  Want make climb as in Alps without many Sherpas and many camps. Necessary to work for one or 2 members on top, and even to put 2 on top would have required too much unnecessary time effort.

  Must be in France 26 Oct and report for work on 27th Oct.

  BC 20m near Tilicho Lake. 1 hour to foot of ridge, then fixed rope for 6 days to make C1 - 1000m difficult to C1 site on East Ridge.

  Schmutz went to top without any thing on his back, so other member [Emin] had to carry reaching all way to top.

  Avalanches on face but not on expedition's ridge.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 18 Oct 78

  Summit by Emmanuel Schmutz. From only one high camp. Team effort so satisfied with one man on top. Much snow. Leader and deputy leader now in KTM; arrived yesterday evening; rest here after 4 days.


  Schmutz - 13 Sept 78

  Pokhara-Dumre-Marshyangdi-Tilicho Lake

  BC at 4900m near Lake route is East Ridge, we think, but not sure since no one has been on mountain before.

  All now in KTM. Leave for Pokhara Saturday if possible.
  Arrive BC about 29 Sept; 12 days march with 40 porters
  2 Sherpas above BC
  Only 1 camp; as much as possible alpine-style; very little fixed rope if any
  C1 about 6000m where angle of ridge changes.
  Oxygen only medical
  Summit by end Oct. Depends on mountain's conditions: maybe very quick after 4-5 days acclimatization at BC.
  Back in KTM by 26 Oct is target.
  Most difficult 300m very steep below C1 and 300m above C1 - D grade.


expid: APIM78301
peakid: APIM
year: 1978
route1: E Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Renato Moro
sponsor: Milan Expedition to Mt. Api
ascent1: 3rd
approach: Pithoragarh->Chamlia Khola
bcdate: 1978-09-29
smtdate: 1978-10-16
smttime: 1400
termdate: 1978-10-20
campsites: BC(29/09,3700m),C1(4980m),C2(10/10,5650m),C3(13/10,6300m),Smt(16/10)
routememo:
  Bianchi - 7 Nov 78

  BC about 3900m at end Sept.

  C1 under South Face of East Ridge not (secondary summit), maybe called Nampa I (Pt 6700m at about 4980m).

  C2 about 10 Oct at about 5650m.

  C3 on 13 Oct at 6300m probably correct.

  Summit news correct: 16 Oct team only attempt for summit.

  No more summit attempts because C1 to top: C1 to C2 = glacier (little dangerous because of slides), C2 to top technical difficulties with very steep mixed rock and ice C3 to top.

  Camp altitudes maybe too low from C3 to summit more than 700m or about 700m vertically.

  4 summiters left C3 5:00 or 6:00 am and reached top about 2:00 pm.

  Lack of time also prevented other summit attempt and Sherpas going above C3; took longer to reach BC than expected and then took time to determine route.

  No accident, illness and frostbite.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 3 Nov 78

  Summit 16 Oct at 2:00 pm

  1) Cesa Bianchi
  2) Angelo Rocca
  3) Maurizio Maggi
  4) Vittorio Tamagni

  Cloudy on summit; while descending, Maggi slipped few meters, but climber roped to him pulled him up and no serious injury.

  C3 and C2 evacuated on 17th and on 18th all in BC; left BC 20th.

  C3 6300m 13 Oct on East Ridge of Api.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma - 8 Oct 78

  Api Base Camp established 29 Sept at 3700m


  Tedeschi - 8 Sept 78

  South Face to see, then choose route. Think can try SW Ridge, route of Japanese in 1971 and 1973. Permission for South Face which is full of seracs, so must find route free of danger and this may mean SW or SE Ridge.

  Approach march via Chamlia Khola. BC could be any place south of Api depending on what they find as BC site and as route.

  BC about 4000-4500m. On 3000m of face need 5 or 6 camps but depends on problems of the climb. 

  4 Sherpas above BC.
  No oxygen for climbing and sleeping, only 2 little bottles for medical use.
  13 climbers and 1 doctor.
  Leave 13 Sept from Delhi and enter Nepal at Pitoragath, arrive BC about 30 Sept.
  Summit after 3-4 weeks of climbing.
  No members may come to KTM after climbing finished; depends on whether have any time left.


  Culola Naionale D' Alta
  Montagna
  via Silvio Pellico 6, Milano
  (address of Milan section of Italian Alpine Club)

  Milan Expedition to Mt. Api

  The four summiters reached the top in cloudy weather at 2:00 pm on 16th October, according to the spokesman. Presumably they went to the top from the expedition's Camp 3, which had been pitched at 6300m on Api's East Ridge three days earlier.

  While descending from the summit, Maggi slipped and fell a few meters, but the colleague to whom he was roped was able to arrest his fall, and Maggi sustained only minor injuries. (The colleague's name is not known here). Camps 3 and 2 (5650 meters) were evacuated on 17 October and all members safely in BC on 18th October. The team left BC on 20th October on their journey home.


expid: MAKA78301
peakid: MAKA
year: 1978
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Janusz Kurczab
sponsor: Warsaw Himalayan Expedition Makalu 1978
bcdate: 1978-09-27
smtdate: 1978-10-21
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to violent storms
campsites: BC(27/09,4850m),C1(28/09,5250m),C2(03/10,6100m),C3(17/10,7000m),C4(21/10,7400m),xxx(21/10,7400m)
routememo:
  C1 moved slightly down because little crevasse at 6200m - originally at 6200m.

  C4 on Makalu La. Last occupation 26/27 Oct. Wind so strong decided to abandon attempt. 11 members reached C4 in period 21-6 Oct.

  Only a few meters above Col reached, trying to get better radio connection with KTM, but wind so strong whipping pieces of ice like stone and tips of fingers frostbitten.

  Problem was too late: if had one more week, would have reached summit. Lost 1 week at Pakistan-India border, 3 weeks in Delhi including truck breakdown (Indian truckers did not want to brave floods and robbers).

  Route was French 1954 route = northwest side. From Col would have gave up NW Ridge; and French had an extra camp below Poles C3 with a long traverse which Poles did not make between C2 and C3. Probably same route as 1978 spring expedition led by Dr Warth.

  Mlynarczyk: 1.60m fresh snow 3 days and 2 nights; he was sleeping and killed by avalanche at 4:00 am on 6 Oct.

  Wolf: became ill from altitude. French and Poles tried to get him to BC in heavy snowfall and took 14 hours to do so.

  Poles and French same route to Col
  French BC about 500m
  C1 - 50m apart
  C2 - French 100m higher than Poles 
  C3 - same place: very close - fixed ropes below C3 together

  French used Polish ropes above C3 and did not make a C4 but went to their summit (Makalu II) from C3.


  Ferrier (Makalu II) - 6 Nov 78

  Polish unsuccessful. Reached Col only. 1 sick member arrive today, rest in KTM after 1 week.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 19 Oct 78

  Expedition continuing climbing. Mlynarczyk alone in tent - only his tent covered by snow so no one else injured.
   
  BC 27 Sept  4700m
  C1 28 Sept  5250m
  C2  3 Oct   6200m


  Kurczab & Glogoczowski - 15 Aug 78

  Northwest side (same as French 1954 and this spring at first) but from Makalu Col straighy up NW Ridge.

  2 women members - made first women's ascent Gashurbrum II 1975: Anna Okopinska went to C3 on Lhotse.

  Only 4 here now - 3 more with truck somewhere+13 members probably today in Patna and go direct to Biratnagar. Truck also to Biratnagar and 1-2 to KTM with passports. Fly baggage Biratnagar/Tumlingtar.

  BC at usual place - 5000m
  C5 at Col 7400m
  C6 on ridge about 7800-7900m
  No Sherpas to save money; have enough Poles; only hire cook and 2 helpers

  Established BC about 15 Sept - summit late Oct, which starts to be late.
  Use oxygen for climbing above Col and sleeping on col.


  18 Aug 78

  Truck 21 Aug at Biratnagar, hope for flights to Tumlingtar 25 Aug.
  Start caravan after 25 Aug and reach BC 10 Sept.


  Mlynarczyk's body had been buried near base camp, which is at 4700m, and the expedition's climbing continues. No other member of the the member of the team was even injured by the avalanche.


  5 June 2017 - Anna Okopinska

  The avalanche happened in the night 5/6 Oct in the usual Makalu BC 4850m. After 63 hours snowfall, there was 1.5m deep snow in BC. About 3:00 am, a silent snowslide from the low moraine has deeply covered the tent in which Andrzej was sleeping alone. He was dead when taken off in 30 min. The same night our 3-person team was descending Jan Wolf who suffered from HAPE from C1 to BC in the heavy snowstorm. Terrible night.


expid: KGUR78301
peakid: KGUR
year: 1978
route1: NW Ridge from W
nation: W Germany
leaders: Hermann Froidl
sponsor: Hauser Exkursionen International's Tour Nepal - Kang Guru
approach: Dumre->Marshyangdi Valley
bcdate: 1978-10-19
smtdate: 1978-10-25
termnote: Abandoned at 6650m due to members' illnesses and lack of porters
campsites: BC(19/10,3500m),Biv(20/10,4800m),C1(21/10,5200m),C2(24/10,6000m),xxx(25/10,6650m)
routememo:
  Scherzer, leader German Kang Guru 1983 expedition - 13 April 83

  Route in 1978 was from west, not east [my notes of 9 Oct 78 say approach would be via Pisang, which is due west of Kang Guru].


  Froidl - 14 Nov 78

  Route was NW Ridge

  BC   19 Oct  3500m
  Biv  20 Oct  4800m
  C1   21 Oct  5200m
  C2   24 Oct  6000m

  Highest point 25 Oct, 6600-6700m, by Schmitt and Traunik.

  All sick: bad bronchitis with fever. Had fixed programme so could not stay longer and no porters, so must take horses and yaks. Also had heavy snow, but this not the cause of stopping;
  actually heavy snow between biv and C1.

  Other problem was Sherpas did not receive all equipment they demanded and only a few were willing to climb to C1.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism

  BC  19 Oct
  C1  20 Oct 4800m
  High-point 6790m


  Froidl - 9 Oct 78

  Route is NW Ridge = 1955 Germans. On climbing route, first have 2000m rock wall on north side then little ice wall to ridge.

  2 fixed camps above BC
  C1  5600m at top of rock wall
  C2  6200m under ice wall

  Base at 3500m at beginning of rock wall.

  Leave today 1:00 pm by Germans to Dumre and then walk up Marshyangdi. Starting trek today. 10-12 days to BC depending on bridges and whether necessary go via Pisang.

  BC 17 or 19 Oct
  8 Sherpas above BC
  "12 days for the mtn," then to Manang, Muktinath, Jomsom and fly to KTM from Jomsom 8 Nov.

  Commercial climb: members have hobby of climbing with most 40 years old, but 1 woman 20 years and 1 man 60 years. Hauser will make this expedition to Kang Guru every year.

  Germans doctors to do physiological tests - meet at Dumre
    Miss Ursul Welsch [doctor or girl friend?]
    Mrs Ludwig Gutsclure, Germany?
    Mr Wolfgang Hoschka, Germany


expid: HIME78301
peakid: HIME
year: 1978
route1: E Ridge-NE Face
nation: UK
leaders: John Cleare, Ian Howell
sponsor: British Himalchuli Expedition
countries: Kenya, Poland
approach: Buri Gandaki->Lidanda Col (BC)
bcdate: 1978-10-14
smtdate: 1978-10-23
termdate: 1978-11-07
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m after hearing news of death of Alison Chadwick on Annapurna I
othersmts: Climbed Rani Peak (RANI-783-01)
campsites: BC(14/10,4630m),C1(17/10,5425m),C2(20/10,5890m),C3(23/10,6400m),xxx
routememo:
  Climbing stopped 31st Oct and all but Cleare, Fowler and Howell left mountain.

  4 Nov Cleare and Howell scaled Himalchuli NE Peak (6497m).


  John Cleare - Nov 78

  Cleare and Ian Howell scaled Himalchuli NE Peak (also called Rani Peak) on 4 Nov 1978, same route as Dutch in spring 1970: South Ridge from southeast side climbed to summit from C3 made for Himalchuli attempt.


  Nigel Gifford - 8 Nov 78

  Route = NE Face

  After 23rd, bad weather (high wind) so all went down BC. About 29th on way down between C3 to C2, Stevenson in (slab snow) avalanche but swam out. He went 70 yards but not hurt. Then mail arrived on 30th [bringing news of the death of Alison Chadwick Onyszkiewicz on Annapurna]. She knew 7 of members, some very well. 31st Janusz Onyszkiewicz left. Morale on 29th-30th still pretty good but I felt to put in C4, C5 and biv or snowhole pretty big job still to be done and long way to go and weather colder and windier. On 31st fun had gone out of expedition. O'Connor had to leave for business commitments, Nigel wanted to leave, Janusz left. Decided on 31st not carry on. So departures, Stevenson's avalanche which was 3rd avalanche, snow conditions never good, long way to go, C4 would be lower than C3, find safe route problems ahead and now Nov's winds and cold snow condition really what defeated expedition. If better, other factors would have been overcome.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 26 Oct 78

  Himalchuli
  C2 - 20 Oct 19,320 ft
  C3 - 23 Oct 21,000 ft


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 22 Oct 78

  BC - 14 Oct 15,200 ft
  C1 - 17 Oct 17,800 ft


  Cleare - 24 Sept 78

  NE Face - long plateau, NE Peak traverse (100m below summit), ridge that fades out to face (where C3 will be) at about 22,000 ft. May go left to ridge above C3.

  Leave KTM by about 29 Sept. 2 weeks to BC with 50 porters.
  BC at 16,000 ft probably maybe biv above C3, maybe only snowholes.

  Sirdar Pemba Tharkey but not above BC - no Sherpas above BC. 
  1 medical bottle oxygen 
  Summit bids end 1st week Nov, possibly before; are equipped to stay till late Nov.


  Letter from C2 by John Cleare - Oct 23, 1978

  We are going like a steam engine right now. Morale is tops and thanks perhaps to Nigel's superb H/A. We eat like kings. Snow is calf deep but weather excellent and no wind yet. Everyone is carrying 50 lbs and loving it because we are acclimatizing well. Sleep low/carry high and its working. Pin, I and Doc and Nig set up C3 at 21,000 yesterday and Pin and I are occupying it today to probe and locate C4 tomorrow. C4 is bottom of North East Face of Big H. And if our momentum continues (its tremendous right now - goo go go before we get too tired) we should have summit bids going in with 7-10 days. How can we fail? (isn't that what Hitler once said?) Anyway - we'll have a damn good try and optimism is very much in the air. We feel wer are breaking new goal by being Sherpa-less on such a big long and "long sticky" ridge.

  The views are fantastic. We see deep into Tibet up Ton Khola glen and Gosainthan in distance holds its alpenglow particularly red (appropriately long after the other peaks are dark).


  8th Oct 

  We are still a few days below BC but as Bill reached us 2 days ago and we can't make the radio he bought with him work we are sending back a runner early with the batterys to recharge. And a few letters with them. Hope all is well in KTM. We've had 48 hours continuous rain but sun is shining now and we are drying out nicely. But what a place. The Buri in spite is quite something.


expid: PUTH78301
peakid: PUTH
year: 1978
route1: S Ridge-S Face
nation: W Germany
leaders: Guenter Sturm, Fritz Zintl
sponsor: DAV Expedition to Putha Hiunchuli
ascent1: 5th-7th
approach: Pokhara->Gurjakani->Budzunge La->Kaphe Khola (BC)
bcdate: 1978-09-23
smtdate: 1978-10-08
termdate: 1978-10-24
campsites: BC(23/09,4450m),C1(25/09,4900m),C2(27/09,5750m),C3(02/10,6300m),Smt(08,12,19/10)
routememo:
  Zintl - 31 Oct 78

  6th member on 19th Oct was Schaeuble. 
  1 other 20 minutes (100m) reached below summit Pfundstein. 
  South Ridge route - 3 camps: C3 at 6300m.
  Lackner fell down couloir and then into crevasse.
  Base camp was at 4450m. 
  No other accidents or illness, no frostbite.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 31 Oct 78

  Summit of Putha Hiunchuli:

  08 Oct (from first group)
     7 members + 2 Sherpas (see below)

  12 Oct (from first group): left Nepal 20 Oct
     Gunter Sturm (leader) 
     Max Stueckl
     Theo Zunterer
     Ludwig Huber
     Ang Chepal Sherpa

  19 Oct (from 2nd group): left KTM 3rd Nov
     Udo Zehetleitner
     Wilhelm Odenthal
     Wolfgang Lutz
     Mrs Angelika Zintl
     Fritz Zintl (leader)
     Gerhard Schaeuble

  Thus total of 20 have climbed mountain. All are well and leaving BC for KTM on 24 Oct.


  Col. Ongdi - 31 Oct 78

  Sturm and party stayed behind Vogler's group to make 2nd ascent of Putha Hiunchuli and flew to KTM on same day Vogler's group came from Pokhara. Both groups left Nepal together on 20 Oct.


  Lackner - 17 Oct 78

  Fell 40m into crevasse near C2 about 4-5 days ago. Cuts on face and left side leg and arm at first had not feeling, now feels like needles. Hopes to go home with first group. 

  Also arrived by helicopter today from BC: Heinz Hagg who had altitude problems.


  Peter Vogler - 17 Oct 78

  Vogler and 7 arrive KTM today and rest tomorrow. All well with his group. Ministry's report of summiters on 8 Oct correct. No problems climbing and no accidents, etc - all well.

  1 member 2nd group Bernd Lackner of Munich came to KTM by helicopter after fall in crevasse near C2, Vogler heard.


  As the first group of German climbers who conquered 7246m Putha Hiunchuli in the Nepalese Himalayas on 8th October began arriving here today from the mountains, having walked part of the way from their base camp, two members of the second group of German Alpine Club members, who began climbing the same mountain on 11th October, were evacuated today from base to KTM by helicopter because of injuries and illness.

  Bernd Lackner, 33 a biochemist from Munich and a bachelor, fell 40m into a crevasse near the second high altitude camp at 5750m on Putha Hiunchuli four or five days ago. He is not quite sure which and suffers from superficial cuts about the face and a sensation in his left arm and leg which he describes as being like needles pricking him. He told Reuters from his hospital bed there this evening that several days ago he had no feeling in these limbs at all, and he believes he is getting better. He hopes to go home to Germany with the first group, who leave here on 20 Oct.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 15 Oct 78

  8 Oct climbed by 7 members and 2 Sherpas:
    Peter Vogler
    Dieter Holzl  
    Herbert Kaestler
    Lothar Reiser
    Franz Neubauer
    Heinz Kobler
    Martin Andwander
    Ang Pasang Sherpa
    Nawa Temba Sherpa

  Probably from where they made assault: C3 6360m on 2 Oct. 2nd group reached BC 9 Oct and will start climbing on 11 Oct.


  Sturm - 11 Sept 78

  Leave KTM 12 Sept, 8-10 days to BC via Kaphe Khola 
  South Ridge route of '72 Japanese expeditions
  Maybe 3 high camps maybe 4 (probably 3)
  5 Sherpas above BC, Ang Temba sirdar
  Summit about 8-10th Oct for 1st group

  2nd group will arrive BC a few days before 2nd finishes and will use 1st group's fixed ropes, tents, etc; summit 21-22 Oct.


expid: ANN378301
peakid: ANN3
year: 1978
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Steve Van Meter
sponsor: American Annapurna III Expedition 1978
countries: UK
approach: Pokhara->Modi Khola->Annapurna Sanctuary (BC)
bcdate: 1978-09-08
smtdate: 1978-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to cold hands and feet
campsites:
  BC(08/09,3960m),ABC(09/09,4400m),Dep(10/09,4875m),C1(26/09,4875m),C2(14/10,5335m),C3(17/10,6035m),xxx(20/10,7200m)

routememo:
  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 24 Oct 78

  Van Meter report: new route on West Face joining West Ridge at 23,600 ft.

  Sapp, Connor and Landry chose not to go on last section on easy West Ridge; summit long distance from them horizontally and they were extremely exhausted. Trio had been climbing since 7 pm the night before, taking all night to ascend the West Face couloir, 3600 feet of alpine climbing. Continuing on would have necessated a probably biv and possible frostbite.

  We did this climb in a non-traditional tactic without any Sherpas; our team down to only 5 lead climbers after illness forced 2 others out. To have put up a major new route in the Himalayas under these conditions is a major accomplishment to the advancement of Himalayas climbing. Our group feels that we are a success even though the summit was not reached.

  High point: Oct 20 noon 23,600 feet 


  Coffee - 23 Oct 78

  Were on West Face.

  Coffee and Van Meter arrived KTM today. Coffee goes back to BC with cash on 25th Oct.

  3000 feet of rope to C2 on top of rock buttress; above 17,500 feet: 17,800 to 17,900 feet, about 14-15 Oct.

  C3 about 2-3 days later, about 19,800 ft on 17 Oct by McCullough, Sapp, Andrews and Van Meter about 3:00 pm.

  Landry and Connors started from C3 to summit at 10:00 pm 18 Oct in full moonlight - trying and headlamps.

  Alpine ascent; managed 2000 feet vertical feet of very steep climbing, harder than expected. They reached C3 5:00 or 6:00 am 19 Oct; rested at C3 on 19 Oct.

  19 Oct Van Meter and Andrews went and fixed rope on this 2000 ft to give Landry and Connors better chance to summit next night to climb through the night, yet to top early am and get down the same day.

  19 Oct Andrews and Van Meter to C2 from C3 after fixing rope while McCullough and Sapp went up and joined Landry and Connors. 

  2nd team of Mac and Sapp started at 8:30 pm. At about 11:00 pm, when both teams are well above fixed ropes, 2nd team caught up with 1st at about 22,300 feet. Hardest climbing they'd ever done: snow not very deep on rock and not secure.

  11:30 pm - 12:00 midnight. Mac feeling high altitude, effects and needed to go down and did so alone. Managed to reach C3 in early hours of am in darkness and then hallucinated 4 hours.

  Other 3 went on up and it 11:45 am of 20th got onto top of ridge, where Italian and Japanese routes met theirs at 23,600+ feet and +600 yards lateral from top. Figured 8 hours to top from there on no oxygen which meant after dark, so came down and reached C3 at 4:30 pm where they collapsed and Landry went snowblind but Sapp fine quickly. 

  That was end of climbing but not all of mountain.

  Made first ascent of West Face to establish routes.

  Buttress was enormous, very long; needed stronger team for 2000 ft of rock climbing at high altitude.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma - Tourism 13 Oct 78

  30 Sept message:
  BC - 10 Sept 13,000 feet
  C1 - 23 Sept 16,000 feet
  Weather unsettled

  7 Oct message: from leader weather totally bad 6 and 7 Oct. Rick Mosher going back; his wife Arlette (trekker) sick and requires return to US and husband may go with her to US. Dennis Coffee arrived 5 Oct at BC.

  Route change requested: from SW Ridge. C1 had been established directly opposite the route. Too dangerous icefall on ridge.

  Want West Face; estimate 3 camps total; waiting for good weather. 
  Lead climbers Landry and Connor inspected West Face and decided it feasible.
  Sharma will be given change of route.
  7 Oct from LO: route change because of avalanches.
  Daily snowfall and avalanches. 

  Postcards from Greg say of 4 Oct
  C2 is at 17,500 feet
  C3 will be at 19,000 feet
  C4 top camp


  Shailendra Raj Sharma - 1 Oct 78

  Annapurna III C1 established at 16,000 feet on 26 Sept and then further advance halted due to unsettled and bad weather. All members well.


  Coffee - 21 Sept 78

  Infected hand apparently a spider bite which developed a kind of gangrene.


  Coffee - 19 Sept 78

  SW Ridge looks pretty good although may go off slightly because of serac wall in early part of climb.
  Highest at 16,000 feet where C1 will be.
  2 people on 5 Sept at BC - all on 8th.

  14,440 ABC    9 Sept
  13,000 BC     8 Sept
  16,000 dump  10 Sept

  Such heavy snowfall that lot of avalanche and will wait 1-2 weeks before putting in C1.

  No Sherpas with expedition.

  Coffee, escorted by Hirsch, arrived by helicopter from Chamro village. Coffee has swollen right hand from infection, nature of which is unknown. Was seriously ill with very high fever (104 degrees) and even at times delirious; now fever down and hand not so swollen as before, Had hoped to walk to Pokhara, but yesterday found he was too weak and sent for helicopter. Hopes to be able leave KTM after only couple of days.


  JOMR - 6 Sept 78

  Annapurna III had no Sherpas at all with them when they were in Pokhara; when asked who would be cook for LO, they pointed to the 7 BC members.

  (Mike Cheney earlier reported expedition fired their Sherpas evening before leaving KTM).

  Expedition seemed to have no idea about their route.


  Steve Van Meter - 18 Aug 78

  New route: SW Ridge, which Italians looked at in 1977 and decided would too long because of technical difficulties of steep ice and rock, long ridge to summit; ridge is quite narrow; think it is climbable.

  If not feasible (too many objective dangers), could switch to West Ridge or would like alternative mountain, Annapurna II or IV or Gangapurna.

  Approach via Modi Khola. BC 12,500 feet at foot of glacier. Route is up glacier.

  2 or 3 camps above BC; definitely one on 2 rock wall high up on ridge at 22,000-23,000 feet, which could be highest camp.

  No Sherpas above BC except sirdar Sange Sherpa who will help through icefall to 17,000 or 18,000 ft.

  We want to try to climb this peak without any Sherpas on the mountain.
  1) to keep cost down, and  
  2) seems to be trend in Himalayan climbing.

  Leave KTM about 22 Aug. 7 or 8 days to BC with 60 porters.
  Summit 1st-2nd week Oct. 
  Slowest part of climb probably icefall and 1st rock wall; could be avalanche area.
  $40,000 budget
  No oxygen
  7 people at BC

  Annapurna III

  Steep ridge mixed rock and of 3 miles to summit.
  2nd rockwall 22,000-23,000 ft.
  Long steep ridge with maybe C3 on this ridge.
  C2 17,000 ft.

  1st rock wall 15,000-17,000 ft.
  Glacier - icefall 12,500-15,000 ft with C1 somewhere on glacier.
  BC - 12,500 ft


  Letter from Tom McCullough, BC - 5 Oct 78 

  The sole way onto any route is via a long, trip consuming day through one ice field - treacherous looking but quite benign and dying. So our first team is up onto one of the long finger-like rock buttresses that invades the icefield, then along the snow rock ramp to the West Face start. Seems like a variation of the West Face will become the new route. The summit pair has been selected and along with that decision goes all the acrimony, mashing of teeth. Then everyone settles into their role and we continue. Werner Landry and Ed Corners are to go for the summit with usual offerings of the possibility of a second and maybe even a 3rd attempt. I have managed to keep some of the people well during Dennis' absence, the most notable failure being my own health for 3 days.  


  Letter from Tom McCullough - 23 Sept 1978

  Slowly moving we are moving materials up to the base of the buttress. Bad weather has slowed our movement. New snow impaired our crossing of a high morraine to reach advanced base at 16,200. Right now Ian studying all the medical books. My training as in EMT is coming in handy. Hopefully Dennis will return soon. My first guess was a bug bite but he wasn't sure; would be good to get some word about his condition. We are still plagued by a few bugs, colis-infected bites; takes a long time for wounds to heal.

  Couple of climbers have gone up around Tent Pass to take a look around to avoid camp fever.
  The fall colors are spectacular, very delicate small alpine flowers changing colors. Weather getting cooler but when will the monsoons end? The mist seems to settle in the Sanctuary.
  Volley ball had become a regular pastime, our game improves with time at altitudes. Each day we have some activity going on. We will send 2 climbers up to advance in two days to search the route (Ed Connors, Werner Laudry). I'll go up with them to film their movement. Camp spirits are high, but everyone would sooner be on the mountain.


  Letter from Tom McCullough - 16 Sept 78

  We are safely settled at base camp nursing our colds, wounds and wet clothes after too many times across the Madi Khola. We finally got all the loads across; a week-long study in frustration in trying to coax the porters across the river early enough in the morning while the river is still passible.

  The delay caused us to [use] more base camp supplies than planned so we have been sending out for food with each mail run. Speaking of leaches, they were not so bad at our various camp sites and especially at Macchapuchhare base camp.


  Letter from Tom McCullough - 28 Aug 78

  Tonight we are at Hinko, blocked from the Annapurna 3 base camp by three rivers. Tomorrow, early we will cross the rivers when they are lower. Alternatively build some bridges. Everyone has managed to come down with a cold - seems to be the continual runny nose and cough that the porters have. We are almost a day behind schedule. We probably will not be able to pay the porters to base camp since the budget was very slim in the area. We will ferry the 30 loads overselves over about 4-5 days. We had three good days of carrying mixed with 3 days when the porters would go no further at mid-afternoon.


expid: ANN178301
peakid: ANN1
year: 1978
route1: N Face (Dutch Rib)
nation: USA
leaders: Arlene Blum
sponsor: American Women's Himalayan Expedition
ascent1: 5th
countries: Czechoslovakia, UK
approach: Pokhara->Mristi Khola
bcdate: 1978-08-26
smtdate: 1978-10-15
smttime: 1529
termdate: 1978-10-24
accidents: Two women killed in fall
agency: Mountain Travel
campsites:
  BC(26/08,4330m),C1(28/08,5030m),C2(03/09,5640m),C3(27/09,6400m),C4(08/10,7010m),C5(14/10,7375m),Smt(15/10)

routememo:
  Irene Miller - 3 Nov 78

  Ambition to set high record went to Peru in 1958 and did well; Huascaran is highest in Peru 22,205 feet and others 21,000+. First woman and new route on Huascaran.

  In 1961 hoped they would let me go higher than had gone on Huascaran by going up into fun camps. Did not expect to be member of team; went to Mingbo and Green Hut and then flown out after Ama Dablam, then back in at Silver Hut: returned to Makalu.

  Climbing in US in Tetons between these and 1964 again in Peru. 1st child in 1962.

  Now satisfied: as high as could go without oxygen. This the limit of my strength, plus no more time in my life for more expeditions: my kids, my job, my hobbies, music. Climbing certainly not all of my life. Will go back to Tetons and climb almost a very occasional weekends; plus age.

  Bunch of frustrated old women climbers who no one invited on expeditions.
   
  Easier for new to get to top from C5 because we had to carry our own gear up from C4 (Sherpas not carrying for them because it had been decided they going to top too). Had own clothing, sleeping bag and pad, movie camera and film; not over 30 lbs, but was more than others carrying because of movie camera and really dragging along (not on oxygen). People who watched us from below saw me going so slowly were sure I wouldn't be able to make it to summit.

  From C5 essentially empty pack with still camera and 1 oxygen bottle which itself weighed 15 lbs alone, so 20 lbs; left movie camera behind.

  Above C5 little steep and then not severe all the way. Roped whole time, but did not belay. I think we had been worried about summit from other expedition's accounts pyramid but this one real problem (we're now on oxygen). When went onto oxygen speeded us up considerably. Got to top essentially together: Chewang raced along series of bumps, not sure which was highest; then Vera, Irene and other Sherpa because that was way we happened to be on rope at the time.

  Memory lapses:

  Large stretches of route between C3 - C5 13 and 14th and again on 16th and 17th coming down - "whole time I was above C3 my memory wasn't what it usually is: altitude stress." Not complete blank out, just misty recollection; remember summit day: were exciting and focused on it.

  Fell into crevasse near C5 (20 feet above it) on way down and ended with feet in air and Mingma I think turned me right side, up so I could climb out. I thought it very funny and laughed and laughed.

  Thinks she's leaving Nepal Tuesday 7th. PIA say some seats on 7th.


  Annapurna I press conference - 2 Nov 78

  Blum:

  Apologised for unfortunate way accident news was disseminated.

  Day Marquita Maytag arrived at BC was day expedition was leaving BC. Had reached BC day before. Before Marquita arrived, runner sent with message of deaths; then realized message by helicopter would reach KTM much earlier. Reached BC on 26 Aug and got there with no loss of loads, one tent pole only.

  Did not go beyond C2 in early Sept because waited till 12 Sept to raise flags to mountain spirits (Tuesday about good day and 12 Sept new Tibetan month). Then resumed climbing. Dutch route a very difficult climb just as challenging as we expected - 45-55 degrees ice and then one foot wide in newly opened crevasse.

  Film crew and Joan Firey covered in large avalanche about 6 Sept at 10:45 am between C1 and C2. Dyanna Taylor blown 20 feet into crevasse, C1 tents flattened and BC had shower; most avalanches did not really threaten us except crossing.

  Above C3 icewall 21,000 to 21,500 feet led by Irene and Piro, a lot of leading by Sherpas - C3-C4 Mingma and Chewang.

  Above icewall Arlene and Vera K joined the above 2 Sherpas (Mingma and Chewang).

  C5 14 Oct Margie Rushmore, Chewang and Mingma were to establish camp but Margie turned back after 300 vertical feet because feet freezing.

  First summit team to be Piro, Irene, Vera K, Mingma and Chewang, but little hole caused Piro's finger to start freezing while putting on crampons at C5 before starting climb.

  Irene, Vera K and 2 Sherpas left about 7:30 am and members started using oxygen 10:30 am. Sherpas no oxygen - summit reached 3:29 pm and returned safely to C5 just at dark.

  2nd summit team Chadwick and Watson, very experienced climbers and most committed to the climb. Vera W carried most loads, Alison lot of load climbing. On 17 Oct 2nd team left C4 for C5 and film crew of C1 could see and film them "steaming right along". Sherpa Wangal should have been with them but sick; they last seen at 5:00 at about 24,000 feet.

  Right below C5 there is a difficult steep ice step 300 feet high - they were seen below the step and after that not seen again because (a) went for dinner and (b) light failing.

  BC didn't know at first who were 1st summit team because no radio contact then - film crew saw 4 figures go to the top.

  17th Oct no radio contact which should have had - radio contact was done at 6:00 pm and below decided radio with summiters packed in.

  Next day they were not observed - might have left very early and behind rocks or wind might have kept them in tents at C5.

  19 Oct 1st team in C3 in support of 2nd team while others in C2 and film in C1.

  20th Oct Sherpas, summiter Mingma and Lhakpa Norbu, went up from C2 to search. 1st team tired in C3 so Sherpas went up instead because they stronger and faster. When Sherpas got above C3 saw red and knew Alison wore red jacket and found her body resting on top of snow serac near crevasse and rope down from her leading into crevasse.

  What probably happened they slipped on ice step below C5, fell 1500 vertical feet and stopped by Vera W's fall into crevasse - very steep 40-50 degree ice and thus very difficult to arrest fall. Fall like this can happen to anyone anywhere; safety conscious climbers; no attempt to bring down bodies on 1-foot wide ridge which would be dangerous.

  Piro and Vera K on 21 went from C3 up to put Alison in crevasse and recover their (Chadwick's and Watson's) packs but after half-hour Piro's finger froze again and turned back. No one went up to them. 

  Will write French to put Alison in crevasse; before this winter however, will discuss with Janusz what he wants.

  2 Oct all off not and on 23rd planned to leave BC when Maytag turned up semi-unexpectedly. Maytag's departure not purposely delayed. James left early because had climb on 5 Nov on El Capitan.

  Memorial to Chadwick and Vera W: rock at BC has names of Japanese, Italians and Sherpas killed in 1973 and added Alison and Vera W names to rock.

  We are very saddened by the tragedy but hope it will not obscure the achievement to the climb. I was delighted with the climb. Morale very high and we all are still good friends which is unusual at end of big expedition. 

  No altitude sickess - all at end well and still carrying loads.

  "This route much more challenging and technical than South Col route on Everest why 1st team not just women: Sherpas had made significant contribution to establish C5 and route and not fair to exclude tben on summit."

  If Sherpas with Chadwick and Vera W not necessarily saved.

  Number of Americans on this expedition capable of going to top. Annie could have gone to top; it just worked out only 1-2 up. Watson born in China of Russian mother and Australian father, linked in many countries, in US since 1962.

  Kramer: "rather miss the summit than my finger."

  Blum: her own highest point 21,500 feet; spent most of her time on radio and organizing things.

  2nd team: Alison had climbed C3 without oxygen and felt Annapurna could be climbed without oxygen. Alison did not take up her oxygen tank from C4 so oxygen 1-1/2 tank in C5 for Vera W.

  Miller: on top: "felt great sense of relief did not have to go up any more and satisfaction that expedition successful". Took few days to realize she had US women high altitude record; was very pleased because had wanted to set that record 17 years ago on Makalu (British 1961 expedition).

  Next project: fish behaviour on Great Barrier Reef, Australia.

  Everest again? I don't think so. 

  Miller: only US climbs in future; has poor memory of what happened above C3 but of other dangers memory good. 

  Memorial fund to help support women climbing in US.


  Joan Firey - 1 Nov 78

  All now in KTM.


  PAA - 1 Nov 78

  Ashton, Taylor, Blum and Miller booked RA 205 KTM/Del 6 Nov  PA 002 Del/SFO 7 Nov


  Wanda of Everest - 1 Nov 78

  Alison Chadwick was Janusz's second wife; first wife (Polish) killed in caving accident about 10 years ago in Soviet Caucasus.


  Chhetri, MT - 1 Nov 78

  From Himalchuli to Blum via Police and Cheney:

  Leaving Namrung 31 Oct; hope reach KTM 5 or 6 Nov; wait if you can.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 24 Oct 78

  Annapurna I - report from Blum 17 Oct.

  15 Oct - summit Miller and Komarkova and 2 Sherpas.

  BC - 26 Aug

  C1 and C2 without incident - then series of storms one of which destroyed an equipment cache.

  Dutch route used 4000 feet fixed rope - 6 Sherpas and 10 members 

  C4  8 Oct 23,900 feet
  C5 13 Oct 24,500 feet

  14 Oct 1st summit team to C4 with Kramer

  15 Oct Kramer decided not attempt summit that day due to a frozen finger; other 4 left C5 at 7:30 am and 2 member began using oxygen at about 10 am. Weather clear, cold and relatively calm and four on top at 3:29 pm; summit very cold and windy. To south view obstructed by clouds but to north brown hills of icey peaks of Tibet clearly visible.

  3 flags hoisted with Save the Whales pin.
  4 reached their camp shortly after dark. 
  Climbers in good health although Mingma minor frostbite. 
  2nd summit team Chadwick and Watson trying to reach summit.


  Maytag - 24 Oct 78

  2nd attempt got as far C5 on 17th: Chadwick and Watson. 

  No more tries.

  Left BC this am to walk out; arrives KTM 1st Nov. All well except Dr little frostbite which healing.

  Miller and Komarkova and 2 Sherpas at 3:29 pm 15th. 15 min taking pix of each other weather clean. Could see in all directions

  3 flags: US
           Nepal
           Expedition flag
  Not left on top

  Little wind on top and wispy clouds. 
  Sherpas sprinkled loma rice.

  BC 13,600 ft

  Maytag wearing T-shirt "A woman's place is on top" celebrated with 12 bottles wine (California red).


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 22 Oct 78

  15 Oct reached summit at 15:29 hours
                            3:29 pm

  2 women, Irene Miller, deputy leader, and Vera Komarkova and Mingma Tsering Sherpa, 25 Pangboche, and Chewang Rinzing Sherpa, 28 Namche.

  Women used oxygen, but Sherpas without.

  From BC and C1 they could see flags of USA and Nepal hoisted and 4 climbers could be seen reaching summit; no walkie-talkie, no details of descent, all members well.

  Trying for second attempt on 17th; no details how many will try not given whether other attempts.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 18 Oct 78

  C5 24,500 feet 14 Oct by 2 Sherpas and 3 members.
  15 Oct - 4 climbers to top (original plan was only women's members on 1st assault) - no names.
  17 Oct - 2nd group would go for top (no number or other details).


  John Cleare - 29 Sept 78

  Lots of avalanching and deep snowfall on Annapurna I according letter from Alison Chadwick to her husband received here yesterday - also wind.

  Tents covered in snow but no one hit by avalanche yet.


  Blum - 13 Aug 78 (Press conference)

  All women's expedition: to give women chance to climb and to be in an organization and decision making.

  5 climbing Sherpas and sirdar (no Sherpanis)
  201 porters including film crew 
  All members in KTM now leave 14th at 7:00 am

  Nanda Devi 1979 expedition asking AWHE help and may be given.

  12 oxygen bottles (from Dutch); hope to use only for sleeping at C5, but will use for climbing if necessary. 

  Women seen to do better at long distance running and swimming than men; one theory is women metabolise better.

  "I wish Annapurna were safer." Knows of avalanche danger; hope Spanish-Dutch route will be safe. 

  Wanted on 8000m peak that wouldn't require much oxygen which is why chose Annapurna


  Blum - 8 Aug 78

  First summit attempt: 3 woman in first 1/2 Oct - why even strongest
  Leave KTM Sat/Sun
  10-12 days to BC from Pokhara

  Blum hopes to get top - wouldn't see myself in first group unless I'm strongest
  Dutch route or modification of Spanish route, but not to East summit
  10 climbers  150 porters
  2 film makers
  1 BC manager 
  9 members arrive today 
  6 + 1 BC and 2 film
  5 HA Sherpas and sirdar (2 Sherpanis)

  Alison Chadwick of Leeds is British - one of few (98) woman in world who have climbed 8000m - she climbed 1975 with Poles to Gasherbrum II (husband is Polish).

  Oxygen for medical and first team to summit if needed.
  2 groups of 3 probably have chance to get to summit

  Blum in Biochem department, Berkeley; teaching and research, cancer cause and prevention;
  her highest so far 24,500 ft on Everest.

  1961 EPH expedition wife, deputy leader now Vera Watson in Pakistan, etc. 1st woman's solo of Aconcagua. 

  1st Americans on Annapurna.
  1st American woman's expedition in Himalaya.
  If successful, 1st American woman over 8000m and 1st woman to climb Annapurna.


  To Winco For Neves, People Magazine, New York by Ms Hawley - 24th Nov 1978

  Following is the chronology of the expeditions' progress:

  26th Aug  - Expedition arrived at BC above sea level.
  28th Aug  - Mrs. Alison Chadwick of Leeds, England, and Mrs. Liz 
              Klobusicky, an American living with her German husband
              in Tuebingen, West Germany, established camp 1 at 16,500 ft.
  3rd Sept  - Mrs. Irene Miller of Palo Alto, California, Vera Komarkova
              and Arlene Blum of Berkeley, California made C2 at 18,500 ft.
  12th Sept - A ceremony to the mountain spirits was held at BC and 
              then work on the technically most difficult part of the
              climbing route began. From C2, the so-called Dutch route
              which they then followed, ascends a narrow rib whose
              side is a 40-55 degree slope of snow and ice and whose 
              crest is a classical alpine ridge about 10 inches wide.
  26th Sept - Afer a series of storms and avalanches during the last 
              half of the month had slowed progress considerately, the 
              wind from one huge avalanche levelled C1, but no one was injured.
  27th Sept - Alison Chadwick and Liz Klobusicky set up C3 at 21,000 ft.
  28th Sept - Strike by the five high-altitude Sherpas, who descended
              to BC. Strike settled by cash payments and work on the 
              mountain resumed 1st Oct.
  8th Oct   - Miss Annie Whitehouse of Laramie, Wyoming, at 22 years of 
              age, the second youngest member of the expedition, and 
              Vera Komarkova established C4 at 23,000 ft.
  13 Oct    - Mingma Tsering Sherpa and Chewang Rinjee Sherpa made C5 
              at 24,200 ft. The expedition's baby 21 year old Margie 
              Rushmore of Portola Valley, was to be with them,
              but after 300 vertical feet of climbing, her feet began
              freezing, and she turned back.
  14 Oct    - First summit-assault team of Irene Miller, Vera Komarkova, 
              Dr. Piro Kramar of Seattle, Mingma Tsering and 
              Chewang Rinjee, plus one other Sherpa, moved into camps.
  15th Oct  - Irene Miller, Vera Komarkova, Mingma Tsering and Chewang
              Pinjee went to the summit from C5. Dr. Piro Kramar froze 
              the tip of her finger while putting on her crampons at
              C5 and decided not to try for the top.
  17th Oct  - The second summit team, Alison Chadwick and Vera Watson,
              left C4 for C5. A Sherpa, Wangdel, was scheduled to go up
              with them, but he was ill and descended instead. Chadwick
              and Watson were last seen at 5:00 pm. About 300 ft below C5.
  20th Oct  - Mingma Tsering and Lhakpa Norbu Sherpa found the bodies
              of Chadwick and Watson, roped together, below and 
              slightly east of C4 at about 22,500 ft.
  22nd Oct  - All surviving members returned to BC.
  24th Oct  - Expedition left BC to return to KTM.


  Report on Annapurna I by Arlene Blum

  C1 was established at 16,500 ft on Aug 28 by Alison Chadwick and Liz Klobusicky and C2 at 18,500 ft on Sept by Irene Miller, Vera Komarkova and Arlene Blum.

  On Sept 12 a ceremony to the mountain spirits was held at base camp and work on the most technically difficult part of the route began. From C2 the route pioneered by the Dutch in 1977 was followed. This route ascends a narrow rib to the east of the French route. The side of the rib is 40 degree and 55 degree snow and ice and the crest is a classical alpine ridge about 10 inches wide.

  In the last half of Sept a series of storms and avalanches slowed progress. An enormous avalanche swept the glacier near C1. The wind from the this avalanche leveled the camp.

  C3 was established at 21,000 ft on Sept 27 by Alison Chadwick and Liz Klobusicky.

  On Sept 28, all 5 high-altitude porters announced they were leaving the expedition for KTM and returned to BC. Strike was settled upon payment of Rs 1296 and work on the mountain resumed on Oct 1.

  On Oct 8 C4 was established at 23,000 ft by Annie Whitehouse and Vera Komarkova and on Oct 13 C5 was established at 24,200 ft by Sherpas Mingma Tsering and Chewang Rinjee. The next day Irene Miller and Vera Komarkova, Piro Kramar, and three high-altitude porters moved to C5. The next morning Kramar froze the tip of her fingr while putting on crampons and decided not to attempt the summit. Miller, Komarkova, Chewang Rinjee Sherpa and Mingma Tsering Sherpa left camp at 7:00 am and reached the summit of Annapurna I at 3:29 pm. Nepalese, American, and flags were flown from the summit. The team reached C5 at dark (after 7:00 pm) and spent the night there.

  On Oct 16, the three-high altitude porters descended to C2 and Miller, Komarkova and Kramar went down to C4 where the second summit team, Vera Watson and Alison Chadwick, with Wangdel Sherpa in support were spending the night.

  On Oct 17, Wangel Sherpa descended to C2 due to illness and Miller, Komarkova and Kramar went down to C4 where the second summit tea, Vera Watson and Alison Chadwick, with Wangel Sherpa in support, were spending the night.

  Also, Chadwick and Watson left C4 for C5 on Oct 17. They were seen by the film crew at C1 about 300 ft below C5 at about 5:00 pm. Radio contact was not made that night with them and it was assumed their radio was broken (as had been the radio of the first summit team).

  When radio contact had still not been made by Oct 19, it was decided to go up and see if they needed assistance. On Oct 20, Sherpas Mingma Tsering and Lakpa Norbu went up to look for them. The Sherpas found the bodies of Chadwick and Watson, still roped together, below and slightly east of C4 at about 22,500 ft. Evacuation of the bodies was not attempted as it was judged to be unjustifiably dangerous.

  All members returned to basecamp by October 22 and left October 24, arriving in Kathmandu November 1.


expid: EVER78301
peakid: EVER
year: 1978
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: W Germany
leaders: Karl M. Herrligkoffer
sponsor: First German Mount Everest Expedition 1978
ascent1: 28th,30th,31st
countries: Poland, Switzerland
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1978-09-03
smtdate: 1978-10-14
smttime: 1630
campsites: BC(03/09,5400m),C1(02/09,6000m),C2(09/09,6500m),C3(18/09,7250m),C4(30/09,8000m),Smt(14,16-17/10)
routememo:
  Kurt Diemberger - 24 Oct 78

  Correct that he and Mazeaud were at least 10 minutes behind Afanassieff and Yaeger reaching summit, more like 30 minutes probably. Clear weather, but no tripod visable. Oxygen dump about 8350m or 8400m. 


  Mazeaud - 23 Oct 78

  French C3 and C4 on Everest destroyed by avalanching. German at C3 hurt but not so bad.


  Diemberger - 20 Oct 78

  He and last of French came by helicopter this evening from BC. All off mountain today or tomorrow and all safe, no frostbite. "Incredible." Many German members but not into Icefall. Kirchberger and Ritter with oxygen in very strong wind; reached BC afternoon and evening.

  Lhotse: up Everest, I go for Everest. I go up Lhotse, I go for Messner; for others, too tired after Everest.


  Herrligkoffer & Hillmaier at Airport - 18 Oct 78

  Hillmaier, Kustermann and Herrligkoffer on today in KTM.
  Yesterday last German party to top:
    Kullmann
    Ritter without oxygen from BC (Diemberger says Ritter used oxygen)
  Think succeeded; good weather yesterday.

  Hillmaier: at 5 pm on summit, very late; very much snow on top, we were 1 meter higher than earlier summiters; could not find tripod.

  Hillmaier: I am best friend of Mazeaud; made camps with Mazeaud; no French-German quarrels. Hillmaier went with German group to top because Sherpas went down and he had rope they needed for Hillary Step. Climbing Everest not easy, very different from South Summit and Hillary Step.

  Herrligkoffer: 2 Sherpas and Engl no oxygen at any time, like Ritter.

  Miss Wanda not so strong and needed oxygen; she comes to BC today.

  Mazeaud came tomorrow or day after (capt says Mazeaud today).

  No more attempts on Everest and Lhotse.
  Not true camps destroyed on Lhotse face.

  Afanassieff and Jaeger skiing not in one smooth run: from 8200m to C2 in 1 hour; C2 to C1 two hours and stayed night at C1.

  Herrligkoffer: made publicity for German-French friendship. Mazeaud and Herrligkoffer have good relations.
   
  Left South Col yesterday 8:00 am for top
  Hillmaier: Today storm coming from North Lhotse

  So much time - defeat on 9 Oct very bad for morale.


  Capt. Upadhyaya, RNAC flight - 18 Oct 78

  Flew this morning to Pheriche for HRA cargo and returned 10:45 am. Weather exceptionally clear in Everest area and no wind.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 17 Oct 78

  Seven on top:
    Sigfried Hupfauer
    Allenbach
    Klimek
    [Rutkiewicz]
    Ang Kami
    Mingma
    Ang Dorje
  with oxygen in 6 hours from South Col, half hour on summit, reached top at 13:45 hours yesterday; are still now coming down to C2 at 17:15 hours. They are all well.

  Left South Col yesterday at 7:40 am and still coming down to C2 now; last night probably at Col. This makes 14 total on top.

  Afanassieff and Jaeger yesterday went up to 8250m and skied from there to C1 at 6000m; now in BC.

  2 Germans left South Col this am: 
    Georg Ritter
    Bernd Kullmann


  Shailendra Raj Sharma - 17 Oct 78

  Herrligkoffer arrive KTM tomorrow am

  No contact BC-South Col today. BC to C2 Ok and as of 2:00 pm today no news has reached C2 about yesterday's attempt. No contact from BC above C2 today. No definite news others going up, but LO expected yesterday's group to be last attempt. Mazeaud reached C2 yesterday and arrived at BC today.

  C3 and C4 destroyed by avalanche between 1st German assault and French assault: when Germans came down on 15th they found both camps missing.

  Germans were to reach C2 about 2:00 pm today. Now (2 pm) celebrating at BC heavily. Yesterday Germans (all 6 in team) were seen last evening going up 4:00 pm from C2.

  Weather yesterday and today good. Probably no more French will go up: Walter Cecchinel has leg problem, Raymond Despiaux too tired. J-F Mazeaud not supposed to go to summit from very beginning.

  3:30 pm: still no news at BC about Germans team of 6 climbers.
  Mazeaud not coming to KTM on 18th; in BC all happy - very good weather.

  Herrligkoffer to Germany on 19th.
  Mazeaud not decided about Lhotse.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma - 16 Oct 78

  Today's summit party left Col at 7:30 this morning. No further news as of 4-5 pm to Sharma. Walkie-talkies of Germans not working, so climbers must reach Col before success or failure can be known.


  Doug Scott - 14 Oct 78

  German and French BC and C1 camps next to each other
  German and French C2's 30m apart but maybe necessary because of terrain.
  C3's are 200m apart with French C3 200m lower than German
  C5 : German C4 is the Col
  C4 : French C4 is at 7600m
  C5 : French C4 at Col

  Scott was at Everest BC on 11-12th - left 12th am

  9th Mazeaud, Diemberger and Hillmaier reached Col and couldn't find tents, oxygen, etc,; so deep in snow (tents perhaps not pitched) so came down after dark.
  10th very windy - no movement up - Mazeaud to C2. 
  11th Mazeaud and Diemberger left C2 starting up with intention of going to Col that day, picking up member/Sherpas on way up.

  Mazeaud not permitting any other French to summit first; wants this to make him politically prominent again. "Not healthy really." Mazeaud also trying to be the leader controlling the logistics; can't do this from the front.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 15 Oct 78

  Yesterday Mack, Hillmaier and Engl reached summit: 
    Mack      4:30 
    Hillmaier 5:00
    Engl      5:15    
  Started from South Col at 10:00 am yesterday. Engl without oxygen from Col.

  Came down to South Col between 8:00 and 9:00 pm and today left Col today for C2. All three in good condition.

  Mazeaud, Diemberger, Nicholas Jaeger and Jean Afanassieff left Col with oxygen at 4:30 am today going up - may reach summit between 1:00 and 2:00 today.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma - 14 Oct 78, 5:45 pm

  Mack, Hillmaier and Engl left so Col at 6:30 am with Mazeaud and Diemberger and Ang Dawa. Returned to south Col at 5:35 pm today with Sherpa Ang Dawa. They were seen descending at 4:15 by Afanassieff who was at Col. They had reached 8450m and dumped oxygen there and turned back because of lack of oxygen to go to summit and return.

  Mack, Hillmaier and Engl left other at 8450m to continued up to summit. No one knows by 5:35 pm whether they got to top or not. Not seen from C2 or Col as walkie-talkies not working.

  Mazeaud, Afanassieff, Yaeger and Diemberger with Sirdar Pemba Norbu will start 4:00 am tomorrow for summit and 5 Sherpas will go with then carrying oxygen to 8450m. Mazeaud expects reach Col at 12:00-1:00 tomorrow. Today good weather up to 5:35 pm as high as 8450m.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism Ministry - 8 Oct 78

  Austin (French charge) received following news from BC by radio today: 
  Perfect weather since yesterday morning at BC and C3 - no wind.

  1st assault team, P Mazeaud, Diemberger and Wehrs, now at C3; plan to reach South Col tomorrow morning and if weather is good, will go to summit on 10th or 11th from Col. French will try without camp above Col if weather is good.

  2nd assault team, 3 Germans and 1 French (names not given) from Col will divide with same to Everest summit and same to Lhotse summit.


  Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 15 Oct 78

  On summit took pix and raised flags of French and Nepal. On top: 
    P. Mazeaud and Diemberger 1:45 pm
    Afanassieff, Jaeger 1:35 pm today

  Weather excellent on Everest, their health also good and from summit Mazeaud thanked HMG and his collegues. 4 left summit 2:55 pm today. No news of other attempts.


  Sailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 14 Oct 78

  Yesterday 3 pm Diemberger and Hillmaier, Mack, Engle and Ang Dawa also decided to turn around and go up. Had not reached C4 before this decision at 3:00.

  Allenbach and Mazeaud reached Col. Mazeaud there when others arrived whether till 3:30 pm today excellent with no wind.

  This am between 6:00 and 7:00 all in South Col; left col to go up to summit without camp on ridge in 2 parties. 
  1) Mazeaud left 
     Diemberger first
     Hillmaier
  2) others three no news from there since their departure from Col now seen from C2 by 3:30 pm today.
  expected they would reach summit 5:00 pm. They have Germans and French walkie-talkie with them.

  Tomorrow  
  French  Jean Afanassieff
   "      Nicholas Jaeger
          Sirdar Pemba Norbu Sherpa
  reached Col 3:00 today and will try for summit tomorrow am. They also not receiving news from summit parties, but weather at Col excellent.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 13 Oct 78

  Pierre Mazeaud and 2 Sherpas have gone up trying again to reach Col today - left at 2:00 pm on 2nd try (from where, not given).

  Diemberger and Hillmaier are in C3; they did not join Mazeaud again today. 

  3 Sherpas who did not get to Col came down and 2 of them then went up with Mazeaud in afternoon. 


  Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 13 Oct 78

  Germany 1) Robert Allanbach
          2) Josef Mack
          3) + Sherpas
  Reached near south Col yesterday but health bad and they returned to C4. Yesterday evening and today to C2. There is no summit attempt today because no one reached Col except 3 Sherpas. These 5 should have gone to summit today.
   
  P Mazeaud, Diemberger, Hillmaier should attempt summit tomorrow as per yesterday plan. But at 12:30 LO reported C2 said they stopped at about 200m below South Col for rest and J-F Mazeaud saw them stop and then descend. Weather bad at South Col, strong winds. Others to go up tomorrow or next day from C2 and C3. Others:

    Fr   Walter Cecchinel
    Fr   Nicholas Jaeger
    Fr   Raymond Despiaux
    Ger  Sigi Hupfauer
    Ger  Hans Engl
    Ger  Willi Klimek

  Wanda should have gone up today with Allenbach and Mack but did not; reason not known.

  Herrligkoffer said P Mazeaud must go first.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 12 Oct 78

  13 members (5 Fr and 8 Gers) left C3 this am for South Col and expected some will reach Col tonight, some tomorrow am. Those who reach today may try for summit tomorrow if weather permits. Weather good today in C3. 


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 10 Oct 78

  P Mazeaud, Diemberger and 3 members of 1st assault team reached Col yesterday and had to come down in evening and reached C3 at 6:30.

  Left Col because wind 100 km/hr in col and heavy snow; reached C2 12:30 pm today.

  Could not stay at C4 yesterday because that camp covered with snow. This evening team will decide who will make attempt on Everest summit. It's by Herrligkoffer that younger members will be included in next assault team. Whether camp will be pitched above col not yet decided. Will attempt Everest only up 20th Oct; then will abandon says Herrligkoffer.

  Lhotse will be attempted only after Everest. LO thinks Diemberger and Mazeaud will not go up again and only 2 assault teams instead of 5 teams earlier planned.


  M Austin, French Charge - 5 Sept 78

  Austin helicoptered to Everest BC yesterday morning. Herrligkoffer and Kustermann and French climbers were there. P Mazeaud and Wanda were up making C2. Body of Germans expedition were at Lobuche, reaching BC probably today.

  No wind at all, no plume on Everest; fine weather at BC equipment and no broadcast permitted until French embassy gives Ok and French govt also gives.

  Satellite used is French-German govt's owned.


  SR Sharma - 1 Sept 78

  French Everest team tried to contact French embassy from Syangboche 6-7 days ago but equipment didn't work.

  HMG has refused permission to broadcast to France from BC; may only transmit news to French embassy, KTM, who will pass on news to Tourism. Tourism will first censor and release to press, then allow embassy to send censored news to France. French radio to pass along any news to Deutsche Welle, according to agreement between them.


  Rai, Annapurna Trekking - 21 Aug 78

  Herrligkoffer, Miss Kustermann and Wanda flew to Lukla in helicopter on 19 Aug.


  Herrligkoffer - 16 Aug 78

  Walters and Daum helicopter to Lukla, arrive 27 Aug. 

  Main group arrive BC 3 Sept: Walters and Daums, who were in Andes, rest in Munich now; reach BC few days after other.

  3 scientists: Herrligkoffer, Kustermann, Laube and Mrs Walter climbed 3700m mountains including Lenin.

  Have heard nothing from Karojin - making no plans for him in Nepal.

  Wanda climbed Gasherbrum with Alison Chadwick. Wanda was leader of expeditions which also climbed G-II. Gasherbrum III was highest not first climbed by women - and II first 8000m peak with only women.

  Wanda, born 4/2/43, divorced, no children, electronics engineer.


  SR Sharma, Tourism - 11 Aug 78

  Herrligkoffer's Germans will be permitted to climb Lhotse only if Mazeaud applies to HMG on their behalf.


  Mahabir Ale, Tourism - 9 Aug 78

  Permission to climb Lhotse this season has been given to French members only, not to Germans team.


  Herrligkoffer - 9 Aug 78

  15 HA climbers
  3 scientists incl Herrligkoffer
  1 Cameraman
  3 German "Sherpas"

  German members total 22. 12 today - 4 arrive after 2 weeks.

  French including have started climbing by time Germans arrive. French and Germans operate separately but make routes together.

  Germans leave soon as possible; stay at Narayani
  1st summit attempt on Everest 1st week if Oct; prepare loads and camps up to C2 during monsoon period.
  1 German woman, Miss Walter, and husband
  1 Polish lady Wanda Rutkiewicz, a deputy leader, Gasherbrum III summiter 1975
  Germans too will broadcast to Europe
  Germans = 7 tons baggage

  Intended orginally for Germans to climb by different route than French but SW Face many Sherpas [Bonington had <60] and HerrligKoffer couldn't raise enough money for so many Sherpas.

  Germans take only 10 Sherpas. He thought at one time could not afford any Sherpas, hence 3 Germans load carriers.

  German members also may climb Lhotse.
  (Herrligkoffer asked how many men with Mazeaud)


  SR Sharma - 2 Aug 78

  French part of Everest expedition permitted to scale Lhotse also; Germans not today (permit given 2-3 days ago). Both French and Germans via South Col only on Everest; if want to use other route must request permission to do so.


  Mazeaud - 1 Aug 78

  French members leave ahead of Germans - arrive 26 July and leave 2 Aug.
  Germans arrive 9 Aug including Herrligkoffer and stay at Taragaon; leave KTM about 19 Aug.

  French by bus to Lamosangu and walk in; few days at Thyangboche and Pheriche.

  One expedition, same route: South Col route with 6 camps above Base. Herrligkoffer is leader, Mazeaud head of French party; very good friends: better than with Dyhrenfurth. French to be in BC 24-25 Aug and C1 early Sept.

  Germans reach BC 5-10 Sept - where French making C1 and ferrying loads
  use oxygen 7000m for climbing.

  21 HA Sherpas for French 
  10 HA Sherpas for Germans
  ---
  31 all above BC


  Winkler - 25 March 76

  Winkler will be with Herrligkoffer on Everest in 1978. Herrligkoffer and Mazeaud come at same time but Herrligkoffer goes to old SW Ridge route and Mazeaud to South Col route.

  Everest exped stayed:
  French - Taragaon
  Diemberger - C/O Dr. La Roche of French embassy
  First Germans - Diamond Hotel (near KTM Guest House)
  Herrligkoffer - Narayani
  Walters - Shanker
  Daums - Mayalu

  Walters - climbed together:
    last year Kun 7000m
    this year Peru 6800m
    Swiss Alps most of highest peaks
    3 years ago Hindu Kush 6900m
    Climbed Parchamo in Rolwaling with Germans Alp Club Spring 1974

  Mr Walter, born 4 Sept 1932
    Bavarian Govt official - ECS dept
    No children
  Mrs Walter, born 10 July 1938
    Computer programmer in research institute


expid: AMAD78301
peakid: AMAD
year: 1978
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jean Clemenson
sponsor: First French Expedition to Ama Dablam
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1978-10-01
smtdate: 1978-10-20
termdate: 1978-10-23
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to dangerous and difficult snow conditions
campsites: BC(01/10,4950m),C1(11/10,5650m),xxx(20-21/10,6000m)
routememo:
  Dufour & Lasserre - 27 Oct 78

  Abandoned climbing 21 Oct; decided to stop on 21 and left BC 23 Oct
  Others arrive KTM ex-Lukla 28 Oct; leave 7 Nov.

  Reached 6000m, put 800m of ropes and took off 600m leaving only 200m and 1 ladder in difficult part.

  BC 4950m
  C1 5650m
  Highest point 6000m 

  At C1 2m snow on the rock and in one day only 40m and 9 days to 6000m from C1; very deep, dangerous snow very unstable.

  Strategy was to put fixed ropes all the way and all to go to top; security was first priority: not to climb alpine-style; but with this snow, impossible to fix rope in this unstable loose snow and this impossible by Himalayan or alpine techniques.

  Clemenson on Pumori Spr 1975 and Dr. on French Everest 1974. Both had experienced Nepal Himalaya expeditions with deaths.

  If snow was hard, very easy because difficult rocks would be under snow. Found old ropes of 1961.

  6000m reached on 20 Oct by Petrignet and Raphoz and by Dufour, Lasserre and Vincent on 21 Oct.

  Returned on 21 Oct to see what situation was and decide whether further progress possible.

  No accident, frostbite or illness.

  If monsoon very strong and late as now, possible - perhaps spring best.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 22 Oct 78

  Abandoned 18 Oct. Had made C1 but no information regarding C1's date and place; this highest camp. 

  Very difficult route.


  Clemenson & Gerard - 13 Sept 78

  2 arrived last March (11th) and 6 now on 25th. 2 stay here until 20th in KTM and then to Lukla with cargo.

  Climb via SW Ridge, same as 1961
  BC about 5000m
  C1 on first step of ridge about 6000m
  C2 just before technically difficult rock towers about 6200m
  C3 just after 2 towers, move C1 to make C3 on icy flat area where in room for camp. 

  All at BC by 1 Oct, summit by 21 Oct.

  Most difficult parts are rock towers and mixed ice and rock above.

  5 Sherpas above BC
  Sirdar = Pemba Lama of Junbesi
  Oxygen only for medical use


expid: LHOT77101
peakid: LHOT
year: 1977
route1: W Face
nation: W Germany
leaders: Gerhard Schmatz
sponsor: Schwabian Himalaya Expedition Lhotse
ascent1: 2nd-4th
countries: Austria, Switzerland
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1977-03-28
smtdate: 1977-05-08
smttime: 1200
accidents: Lutz killed in fall on descent from summit
campsites:
  BC(28/03,5200m),C1(29/03,6000m),C2(05/04,6400m),C3(09/04,6700m),C4(16/04,7200m),C5(28/04,7700m),Smt(08-09,11/05)

routememo:
  Schmatz - 23 May 77

  Schmatz twice in C5 and mild frostbitten fingers and toes; on 11 May oxygen packed up at 8000m while going up with 3rd summit team. Dacher never used oxygen. All others from C5 up only.

  We don't know exactly what happened to Lutz. We have photos from him. Wastl Woergoetter (WW) waited for him on summit took pictures of him and went down together to rock island in ice couloir (which is last 500m to summit). WW came down late afternoon through island said to Lutz "to go on, I come." WW went on down and Max didn't come. WW waited at end of ice couloir at end of ice couloir from 5:30-6:30. WW returned to C5 and spoke on radio to Schmatz who had reached C2 from C5 200m below ice couloir: look for Max. Urkien at C2 thought he saw something but not right. Schmatz told Urkien to get Sherpas to go from C3 at 4:00 am and and left at 4:30 am. 

  Sherpas said on radio saw blood on fixed ropes and C3 found body at bottom of face on 12th May at about 6600m so must have fallen 1500-1700m. Guess he was sitting on rock island and fell asleep and heavy rucksack pitched him over. His top of head smashed, but arms and legs appeared unbroken; put him in special bed and buried him at Gorak Shep 14 May.

  Did not follow Swiss route and did not go to Col; went very direct.

  Luck made success possible and excellent relations with New Zealanders.


  Jha, MFA - 13 May 77

  Death: Max Lutz did not return to camp; early in next morning 12th his body found near C3. Presumed he fell to death having slipped on his very back. Buried at Kalapattar near BC.


  Jha, MFA - 13 May 77

  9 May 3 members left for final assault on summit 7 am. On summit 10:30 am, spent 55 minutes on summit. 1 member Fritz Zintl, reached summit without oxygen for last 200m; while descending Guenter Sturm did not use oxygen and Peter Woergoetter returned to C5 in 45 minutes and this team thus established new record ascending within 3-1/2 hours and descending in 3/4 hour.

  All members in good health. 4 other members expected to reach summit. 
  11 May and to return to KTM within 1 week.


  Jha, MFA - 10 May 77

  2 members reached summit 8 May at 12 noon; Sirdar Urkien Tshering reached top first followed by Warth and Johann Von Kaenel.

  2nd joint assault on Lhotse by Nepal-German team.
  Weather was fine; other members of expedition wish to climb; all in good health.


  R. Messner - 8 May 77

  Messner from Pilatus this morning saw 2 figures moving upwards from Lhotse's highest camp this morning. 


  Pandey - 18 April 77

  16 April C4 7200m by Sturm, Zintl, Vogler


  14 May 73

  Gerhard Schmatz asks me to remind Narayan Das Shrestha or his successor regarding his Swabian Himalayan Expedition to Lhotse in spring 1977.

  Application given in MFA in May 1973; route perhaps via Western Cwm
  (Schmatz leader of 1973 spring Manaslu expedition)


  Letter from Gerhard Schmatz - 7 May 1977

  At 28 April we erected C5 in about 7800m. We think it should be our last camp. Nevertheless we couldn't climb the summit at 29 April because of a heavy storm and snowfall. We had to descend. Today is the weather better. One group of us will ascend again today, the other tomorrow.


  Letter from Gerhard - 25 April 1977

  Some information about our Lhotse Expedition at 16th of April we reached the place for C4 in the Lhotse face. We erected a tent in about 7200m. The day before yesterday a team of us slept in the camp and stayed there till today. Now we shall try to find a good way to C5 at the beginning of the ice-couloir. After erecting C5 I shall inform you again.


  Letter from Gerhard - 7 April 1977
   
  All is going well and the relations between us and the New Zealanders are very good. Yesterday we have erected Camp 2 in about 6200m near the bottom of Everest Southwest Face. We found already a good place for C3 in about 6800m.


  Letter from Gerhard - 4 April 77

  Our first camp is erected. Last night three members slept in this camp (height about 6000-6100m). Our second camp will be nearly Southwest Face. We hope to reach the place tomorrow. The day after tomorrow we wish to erect our camp 2 (height about 6300m).


  Reuters

  German mountaineer Max Lutz, 25, bachelor medical student from Munich, died on Mt Lhotse 11th or 12th May while descending from 8501m summit, foreign Ministry announced today.

  Lutz was member of 4-man team who reached top on 11th May, following expedition's earlier successes on 9th and 8th May. Other 11th May summiters were Michel Dacher, Peter Vogler [Woergoetter] and 4th man [Sebastian Woergoetter] whose name was not given in liaison officer's report to ministry.

  Dacher, Vogler [Woergoetter] and 4th person reached safety of expedition's camps that night, but Lutz did not return and next morning 12th May his body found near Camp 3 at bottom of Lhotse's West Face, which expedition climbed. He fell to his death having slipped while descending. Lhotse face had been reported by Everest climbers as being very icy.


expid: MANA77101
peakid: MANA
year: 1977
route1: NE Face
nation: W Germany
leaders: Gerhard Lenser
sponsor: German Himalaya Expedition 1977 to Manaslu
countries: Nepal
approach: Trisuli Bazar->Buri Gandaki->Samagaon
bcdate: 1977-03-28
smtdate: 1977-04-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to bad weather and heavy snowfall
campsites: BC(28/03,3850m),C1(29/03,4960m),C2(01/04,5600m),C3(24/04,6400m),xxx(28/04,6800m)
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  Michael Holz - 25 May 77

  No C4 established. Holz also reached about 6800m as had Heitzmann and Baumann to bring down equipment. No accidents, no frostbite.


  Jha, MFA - 13 May 77

  From LO on 10 May: abandoned summit attempt following bad weather and heavy snowfall of 8 and 9 May. All members returned to BC. Snowfall so heavy couldn't recover equipment in C3 but are trying.


  Heitzmann - 11 May 77

  Heitzmann & Baumann arrive KTM yesterday evening

  BC 28 March at 3850m
  C1 29  "    at 4960m
  C2  1 April at 5600m
  C3 24 April at 6320m

  Month of April estimate 10m new snow. Between C3 and C3 very dangerous with avalanches. C3 turned out to be in safe place "but dangerous to come to." No avalanches hit camps or climbers.

  27 April - Heitzmann and Baumann went to C3 after snowfall and on 28th went up near 7000m to look for place for C4 but again snowfall came up. Flagged way after snowstorm from noon 28 to afternoon 2 May.

  28/29 April - tent broke in C3, completely covered with snow. Heitzmann and Baumann in tent on 2 May afternoon started to go down, but flags to C4 covered and shoveled way down 100m and returned to C3. 3 May again started down always shoveling and 150m very steep slope went down vertically by skis and even this hard work and in late afternoon reached C2.

  Heitzmann and Baumann had to leave expedition 10 May because vacation finished; so 4th to BC and 5th to KTM.

  Winkler also must start trek tour to South America 1 June and he also coming earlier but waited for sunny day for more photos. Route really on north side but is usual route. When Heitzmann and Baumann came down others waiting in C2 for better weather.

  Need camp about 7000m and another 7500-7600m. If weather improves, others may reach summit. Good Sherpa crew and other members in good health.

  Winkler stayed at least 2 days longer; at Shanker (or Siddhartha); Lama at International Trekking will know.


  Jha MFA - 9 May 77

  Retreating to C2 on 2 May. Likely to reach C2 on 3rd or 4th May.

  Winkler and 2 others returning to KTM 10 May because of incessant heavy snowfall. Leaves total expedition 4 including leader. LO has impression of success very remote.


  Jha, MFA - 6 May 77
  (from LO on 27 April)

  After 4 days weather very good; several days waiting; weather improved and able established C3 6400m 24 April.

  C3 very dangerous so no one can stay there. Walter Heitzmann and 2 Sherpas Ang Nima and Girme Sherpa made route to C3, but did not stay there, sent to C2.

  Above 5000m weather good but in C1 always heavy snow fall and mist. All members safe and sound and well.


  Lenser - 8 March 77

  Normal route, Japanese ladies route. Have not seen mountain so don't know of other possibilities, so go northeast route from Samagaon.

  Leave KTM about 13 March by truck to Trisuli Bazaar.
  Sonam Girme member of expedition and sirdar plus 9 other HA Sherpas.
  Expect to use climbing oxygen.
  Reach BC 26-27 March if leave KTM 13th. 
  Summit by end of April if weather good. 5 camps above base with C5 at about 7600m. 
  International trekkers handling expedition and Mrs Shrestha for mail.

  Lenser probably oldest climber on 8000m peak.

  Schlamp (financer of expedition) goes to BC by helicopter early April.


  Letter from Lenser, C1 - 9 April 77

  We had some days bad weather, but I hope to get to Camp 3 after some days. All are very well and hopefull. 


  Letter from Gerhard Lenser - 27 March 77

  We arrived here on 25th, but due to snowfall yesterday and tonight we have not established our basecamp. We will do tomorrow.


expid: DHA178302
peakid: DHA1
year: 1978
route1: SW Pillar
nation: France
leaders: Yves Pollet-Villard
sponsor: French Expedition to the Himalaya - Dhaulagiri 1978
approach: Pokhara->Myagdi Khola (BC)
bcdate: 1978-09-23
smtdate: 1978-10-31
termdate: 1978-11-10
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to wintery weather
campsites: BC(23/09,3650m),C1.ABC(5200m),C2(5650m),C3(6100m),C4(18/10,7000m),xxx(31/10,7200m)
routememo:
  Coudray & Pollet-Villard - 10 Nov 78

  New route BC to C1 which was very safe from avalanche of snow or icefall. In 1975 5 people dead between BC and C1 at the end of Oct. 1st Nov less than -25 degrees in night and 100 km/hr winds. Could make only 10-20 m/day in this cold wind and last part of pillar very difficult technical and camp not wear heavy clothing which gets in way in rock technical climbing. Sherpas did not want to climb after 5 Nov because said too cold and windy. Sherpas very experienced. 

  250m more to go to top of pillar then long and gentle slope to summit. 

  3rd Nov - could not go out of tent of C4 because of wind.

  4th Nov - to C3 and that evening decided to stop: Sherpas did not want to go on and weather worse every day now know exactly route, way make 1 camp more between C3 and C4 very long (5 hours with good acclimatization and load of 8-10 kg only) and make depot at BC side and BC higher. Will come earlier in season to reach highest point 10 Oct.

  After 18 Oct's C4 established lost 1 week with bad weather. 
  No accidents to members, no illness or frostbite. 
  Coudray and Pollet-Villard left BC by helicopter.
  8 Nov - others leave BC today, on 8 Nov some in C1.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 9 Nov 78

  Abandoned on 5 Nov because high wind and too cold; that day reached 7300m (when and who not said).

  Leave BC 10 Nov except 2 Coudray who came yesterday who are well. All well.

  Went Dhaulagiri I next by SE Ridge again. 


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 7 Nov 78

  French on Dhaulagiri I delayed by strong winds and snowfall; from C4 could go up only 300m. All well and waiting (about 1 week ago).


  Mrs Pollet-Villard - 23 Oct 78

  C6 about 6700m - established 21 or 22 Oct 7000m. 

  Route difficult, very steep and narrow and sharp, still expect to reach summit; 700m high pillar from 7000-7500m difficult.

  Sherpa Dawa Tenzing fell down a steep slope 1 week ago, hurt hip and leg.

  Weather good in am and above the clouds it is good, but cold and windy.

  Mrs Pollet-Villard went to BC 10 days by foot, arrive BC 2-3 days, stays until 1 Nov in KTM.

  All members in good health. Now 5 members in BC.


  Coudray - 4 Sept 78

  Route tried by Japanese this spring at first and then went to successful route, SW Pillar.

  10 climbers and 2 doctors for research with tape recorders on each member; they are climbers too but only to do medical work.

  Dr Grevy and Blanc arrived KTM 23 Sept for 2 days in KTM. All others will be here tomorrow. 

  Leave tomorrow by plane to Pokhara; leave Pokhara 6 Sept. 220-250 porters to BC at 3600m where Japanese had theirs; arrive 19-20 Sept.

  5 or 6 high camps depending on route.

  C1 4600m near icefall
  C2 5000m at Col (ABC)
  C3 5600m on ridge
  C4 6100m on ridge
  C5 7000m on ridge just
  Before last camp great difficulties: very steep rock
  C6 7500m - on top of difficulty and beginning of final ridge.
  Maybe a 7th very light camp

  8 Sherpas and 5 local porters to lower camps
  Nawang Dorje is sirdar

  Are carrying oxygen in case of real difficulties in climb, but will try climb without including none for sleeping.

  Hope summit end of Oct; if not by 10 Nov, not possible because of wind and cold, and must be in Chamonix for opening of winter season in Dec.


expid: MAK278301
peakid: MAK2
year: 1978
route1: NW Face-Makalu Col-S Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Bernard Ferrier
sponsor: Rhonalp Makalu II Expedition
ascent1: 3rd
approach: Tumlingtar->Shipton La->Upper Barun Glacier (BC)
bcdate: 1978-10-01
smtdate: 1978-10-22
campsites: BC(01/10,5000m),ABC(02/10,5300m),C1(10/10,6200m),C2(20/10,7000m),Smt(22/10)
routememo:
  For brief indication of Poles on Makalu climbing with French. 

  Ferrier & Manificat - 6 Nov 78

  French route of 1951 on NW Face to Col and from col up South Ridge between 2 heavy snowfalls able to climb; in early Oct 2 in 3 days and also returned to BC.

  BC  1 Oct at 5000m
  ABC 2 Oct at 5300m
  C1 10 Oct at 6200m
  C2 20 Oct at 7000m

  Helped carry 1 Polish sick members at time of early Oct snow: Bonnafoux, Henault, Ferrier. 

  3 members [Henault, Bonnafoux and Ferrier] reached Col and made route to 7400m and returned and 3 others reached Col on 22 and followed route. On 22 Oct Manificat alone to summit because started earlier. 600m to climb from C2. At 6:00 Manificat left C2 while other two [Lavergne and Chaix] 8:00-8:30 am with problems of overboots, waiting for sun. Much wind for 3 days.

  After that no time for others to go to top. In 3 days cleared all equipment from mountain and went quickly to Tumlingtar. Would take 1 week to send others to top. For rest first in BC. No oxygen; members did all carrying above C1 because no Sherpas would climb above C1.

  No accident, no illness; little frostbite Chaix.


  Ferrier - 15 Aug 78

  Route not sure: at first thought to take South Ridge of '54 French - but maybe slightly different.
  Leave KTM 20 - 21 Sept.
  Equipment arrives 15 or 16 Sept.
  Other members arrive 17 Sept.
  Fly to T'tar and 10 days trek to BC with 30-35 porters (800 kg baggage)
  Expedition of friends and amateurism, no professional guides. Make expedition to see.
  4 sherpas above BC - sirdar Mingma
  BC about 4800-5000m - 8 porters to stay there - will be just below glacier.
  If glacier (not steep) will put another camp where it does get steep at about 5300-5400m
  C2 at about 6000-6200m
  Little tent near pass at 6800-7000m - not possible to make biv.
  5 bottles oxygen for medical and possibly in last camp for sleeping so at least 2 to summit.
  Arrive BC end Sept.
  Summit about 20 Oct, but "in fact it will depend on north wind."


expid: DHA177101
peakid: DHA1
year: 1977
route1: (A pillar on) S Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Reinhold Messner
sponsor: Dhaulagiri Expedition 1977
countries: Austria, UK, USA, W Germany
approach: Thula Khola
bcdate: 1977-04-01
smtdate: 1977-04-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6150m due to difficult and dangerous face
othersmts: Climbed Manapathi NW (MPNW-771-01)
campsites: BC(01/04,4000m),C1(09/04,5350m),xxx(19/04,6150m)
routememo:
  Correct route for 1977 Spring Austrians on Dhaulagiri I was: a pillar on South Face (according to Yves Pollet-Villard, Nov 1978).

  Messner

  6000m peak climbed during 1977 Spr Dhaulagiri I expedition was south-southwest of Dhaulagiri I; don't know name. Messner, Wiedemann, Jones and Dickinson went to summit around 20-25 April via East Ridge.


  Habeler - 29 April 77

  Habeler, Wiedemann, Dickinson and Jones made 1 recce to C1 and avalanches touched them. Very bad snow conditions this year: snow every day on 27 of 29 days at BC. Building up on face, huge avalanche destroying everything on face. No harm done to BC and members.

  6100m highest point reached by Messner and Haebler, 19 April. Then decided to stop completely.

  Messner and Habeler went round to west side and there seracs also falling. Wanted to have helicopter to take them round to NE Ridge on col at 5800m. Other 4 climbers would have gone to top in a week alpine-style.

  Messner arrives KTM 4 May and others.


  Dr. Berghold - 10 April 77

  Very bad weather prevented progress from BC. Don't even know which route because clouds by 11 am and after that avalanching.

  Berghold made 1 recconverse towards C1 but not decided where to put it. Berghold left BC 7 April.

  Moravetz was really very sick with pulmonary edema. Now will be Ok but will have to return home when he is stronger in few days.


  Messner - 22 March 77

  BC 3400-4000m altitude; 2 or 3 camps with highest 6000-6500m and then alpine style with biv tent.

  Up face to snow plateau or roof, not a ridge.

  4 Sherpas including Pemba Tsering to beginning of face at 4200-4400m and then too difficult for them. 

  Whole face is difficult, "always very steep," 55-60 degrees. 1st part and very last part steepest, not so dangerous from avalanches because snow does not stay on face; too steep for it to stay; half of face is rock, half ice.

  4 members, 1 doctor 
  5 film-makers; they have to go on face for filming. 
  "50% chance of success - not more."

  Messner probably leaves tomorrow.


  Covington - 22 March 77

  BC around 18,500 feet 
  2 maybe 3 camps on face. Highest camp at 24,500-25,000 where fixed ropes end, then up alpine-style to SW Ridge.

  2 of film team will be on face and try to go to top: 
    Eric Jones
    Leo Dickinson
  3 Sherpas will go above BC to foot of face, but not as far as C1.

  Above fixed ropes will be alpine-style in down suits which are designed for bivouac.

  1st 4000 feet of face maybe 70% - then another 1500-2000 ft last camp, 70-75% and solid green ice.

  Over to BC there is technical climbing.
  Doctor will stay in BC area.
  Emergency oxygen only (at BC).

  All same degree of climbing skills, but Wiedemann speaks no English.


  Covington - 22 March 77

  Born 29 March 47
  Director of Fantasy Ridge Expeditions


expid: KAN177101
peakid: KAN1
year: 1977
route1: W Face
nation: UK
leaders: Richard Anderson
sponsor: British Sisne Himal Expedition
approach: Jumla->Chaudhabise Khola (BC)
smtdate: 1977-04-25
termnote: Abandoned at 5460m due to fatal avalanche
othersmts: Had permission for Sisne Himal, but did not attempt
campsites: BC(3840m),Dep(25/04,5640m)
accidents: Russel killed in avalanche
routememo:
  Anderson - 12 May 77

  Accident 1 May 17,500 feet. Used same route on face 3 times before (last time 30 April) dumping equipment. West Face of Kande Hiunchuli (21,500 ft).

  Were taking it in turns to make trail because snow very deep - guess avalanche about midday. 

  Anderson in front when avalanche happened. Snow avalanche which we triggered off. Russell 4-5 point behind him and swept down 400-500 feet. Luckily I landed at bottom of other side large crevasse with my head exposed so could get myself out. Took about 15 minutes dig self out. Saw Russell landed head first and only boots sticking out of snow. Took 45 minutes dig him out. Got him clear of snow and tried artificial respiration but no sign of life. He must have suffocated.

  My main thought next was to try get 150 lb down but not possible alone drag him through snow, but too heavy. Had to leave him in as prominent position as possible and get myself down. Couldn't find his rucksack or camera to recover.

  Got self down to BC at 12,600 feet at midnight in good moonlight. Was exhausted and had lost gloves in avalanche so frostbitten fingers right hand not possible with resources at BC to bring Gady down and asked for helicopter help by landing at BC, picked up 2 men to landing site near Gady. No definite plans for body's recovery.

  Highest dump at 18,500 ft which was highest point reached on 25 or 26 April and then weather deteriorated there. 1 May snowing morning but evening clear. Very fun days on expedition when didn't snow.

  Japanese climbers had been on this mountain. Peak wanted to climb was behind Kande.

  "Risk you've got to take" having see fun resources.
   
  BC at 12,600 ft only fixed camp. 


  MB Pandey, MFA - 4 May 77

  Andrew CF Russell, 25, killed in avalanche 1 May.

  Anderson Ok in BC. Reached BC midnight that night of 1 May. Had left BC 21 April go up. Body recovery not possible with local means therefore send helicopter. Asked for helicopter to bring body to KTM, but helicopter not going.


  Anderson - 14 March 77

  British Sisne Himal Expedition

  2 members - Anderson and Andrews Russell (both single) leaving Tuesday. Fly to Jumla and work 1 week to BC. 20-25 porters. No High Altitude porters and no oxygen at all. 

  21,742 2000m west of Kanjiroba main peak.

  BC Chaudibise Khola about 13,000 feet southwest of Sisne. Will have to cross high ridge to get into main basin or go northwest into another glacier.

  At least 2 camps above BC with C2 perhaps 20,000 feet but really impossible to say since have no photos of mountain. "It's fairly unknown." May take some time casting about for best line - "hope no one's been there before."

  About 1 month climbing; come out mid-May on scheduled flight.


  The Assault

  We felt that time was also beginning to run out: it was now 17th April and I had to be back in KtM by 11 May. The weather had not been much good so far, it it continued we might not achieve anything at all. We decided to try to reach the col, then climb Kangde to make a second ascent: and only then if there were time, to descend to the Jagdula. It would be be unlikely that we would have time to climb Sisne, but to reach the northern Jagdula basin would be treading new ground.

  While Andrew rested, I moved loads up with the help of some yaks which had been grazing near BC. A yak can carry about 100 lbs, so they saved several journeys along the flat valley bottom to the foot of the "grassy" spur, but they are fractious creatures and took every opportunity to hurl off their loads, luckily nothing was damaged. From the bottom of the "grassy" spur I carried a load up to an old Japanese campsite beneath the edge of the glacier shelf which on its west side was a vertical rock and ice wall about 200 ft high at its lowest point - we would have to climb the wall to get on to the shelf.

  On 20th April Andrew's had recovered and we carried another load up to the Japanese campsite before tackling the wall. The bottom section of rock was quite easy but the upper ice section - in fact the side of the glacier shelf, was steep and hard. We fixed ropes to about half way and descended to BC. On the following day we started on our two week final push and camped at the Japanese site. We found included in their old rubbish a couple of wooden crates which we attempted to get a fire going with. If Angyla had been with us I think we would have succeeded, but being children of an advanced technological agae simple fire lighting was beyond us: we resorted to the Primus.

  We did not anticipate the ice wall would take so long the following day, but Andrew climbed it atlast with an excellent lead. Because of overhanging and projecting bits of ice, sack hauling was not possible, so I jumared up a couple of times with load which I found extremely tiring. Nevertheless we overcame the wall with all our kit, and with a certain feeling of finality hauled up the rope behind us and pressed on to camp in some seracs about 200 ft higher up. The next day we regained the Depot, after a long day snaking through the crevasses, and our equipment and made camp in falling snow. The snow continued heavily throughout the night and the following morning was the first of many spent digging ourselves out. The descent to the tunnel tent we had left in the seracs was short, but the tent was an unhappy sight; drifting snow had broken one of the fibre glass poles, luckily we had some spares. Then followed an exhausting series of carries back to the Depot, but we were not well placed and rewarded ourselves with a rather unplanned rest day.

  It was good to be moving up to the col on 26th April. The morning was bright and the views out to the West towards Api, Nampa and Saipal were superb, but the snow was thigh deep in places. We made 1000 ft fairly rapidly before being brought up by an unpleasant 30 ft serac, we had hoped to avoid such seracs with a good choice of route, but it seemed we had no option but to climb this one. Andrew and I were both defeated by the angle and consistency of the snow which was ridiculously soft and refused to take any form of anchorage. We then turned our efforts to a curious hole in the lip of the serac which Andrew managed to get himself into. Then, with an an extraordinary manouver with an ice stake, he managed to to climb out of the hole, over the lip, and onto the top. I himself securely, which was fortutious, as I slipped about 20 ft higher up, sailed gracefully past him and landed in a jangle of iron mongery at the bottom of the serac wall where I had been some four hour previously - this was decidedly annoying! But by now it was later than we thought, and descending, we called it a day.

  The following day also started off clear, and we carried loads up to the serac wall easily in the previous day's steps, then made good progress for another 600 ft to the last of the seracs below the col. The snow lay very deep there, but with a combination of tunnelling, squirming and swimming - armed with the invaluable ice stake - we reached a point which led out on to an open snow slope. At that point the weather worsened: it became very cold with a high wind, cloud and flurries of snow. We tried to find an alternative to the exposed open slope which we did not care to embark upon on in worsening conditions and wasted a long time and got very cold trying to find one.

  There was no alternative other than to descend, and after leaving our loads we raced down, fixing ropes over the difficult bits, to the Depot where the weather was dull but calm; a strange contrast to the maelstrom some 1500 ft above.

  For the next three days we had bad weather with heavy snow. Activity was confined to a downward foray to bring up the last of our loads to the Depot, and an upward one where we remainder of the time we spent in the tent, listening to the wind, the rumbling avalanches and the violent thunderstorm which crashed around. Sitting out bad weather in a small tent is not the most pleasant of occupations, we lay head to toe and long periods were spent in total inactivity, punctuated by eating, which apart from conversation and playing "Battleships", was about the only respite we had. Would the weather get better?" and what seemed more likely: "Would the tent blow away?" were questions which repeatedly assailed us. We had one bottle of whiskey with us but were determined not to open it until we had reached the col.

  1 May dawned much the same as the previous days, solid cloud; but it cleared sufficiently for us to attempt some upward progress. Getting dressed at altitude always takes so long; it pays to do as much as possible in the tent because it is too cold to do much outside, but you get in each other way and you can never stand up, also the tent had sunk during one tenure by about a foot. I made a final cache of equipment, including a 200 ft rope that we did not think we would need higher up, while Andrew packed up the tent, we started up about 10:30. It had got warmer, and as result the snow was softer than ever before; there was not sign of any previous steps which meant that the trail had to be labouriously broken once again with frequent changes of lead.

  When we had made about 3-400 ft, and while I was in front, my steps suddenly gave way without warning. I had started an avalanche, was knocked down on to Andrew and we were both carried down together.

  I tried to remember to swim but this activity became rather superfluous when I realized I was in free fall over the lip of the massive bergschrund at the foot of the slope: the light turned green under tons of falling snow. I landed with a tremendous thump and may have lost consciousness momentarily. I then realised I was still alive - tremendous! But I had to get myself out of the snow which was threatening to bury me. I freed my upper body but my left leg was twisted and trapped by the snow. While was digging my leg out I shouted to Andrew but got no reply. After 10 minutes or so I freed myself and staggered to the top of the avalanche mound in which I had landed; I saw Andrew at once a few yards down the slope; he had fallen in head first and only his legs were above the surface. I tried to pull him out but the snow held him like a vice. I returned to retrieve my ice axe which had been tied to me and also recovered a metal plate from my rucksack which had also luckily landed near me. With these I returned to Andrew and succeeded in digging him out after a further 30 minutes. I gave him artificial respiration, but there was no pulse or other sign of life. I think he must have suffocated in the snow; I hope quickly.

  My main thought then was to try to get his body down. I returned the 200 foot rope which I cached earlier, because mercifully we had reckoned it was not necessary higher up, and as much other gear as I could carry. I searced for Andrew's rucksack which contained his camera but could not find it. I tried dragging Andrew behind me on the rope but it was not possible to move him through the deep snow. Reluctantly I had to leave him, but dragged him into a prominent position which I thought I should be able to find later, and tied one of my dayglow overboots to him for recognition. My own descent was an experience I would not care to repeat. I started down through the crevasses and the seracs of the glacier shelf but all was now covered in heavy snow, so that landmarks were obscured and route finding was difficult. However I arrived successfully at the right place above the rock and ice wall.

  I rigged an abseil, threw down the 200 foot of rope and tried to anchor it to an ice screw. But none of those would hold properly, so I put all my faith in a deadman which I place with extreme care and roped down on it, the rope just reaching the bottom. I left the rope in place and carried on the down the "grassy" spur, now by the light of the moon, and along the bottom valley, going more and more slowly until I reached BC at midnight.

  When I reached BC the others were appalled to hear the news, but the fire was lit, I was fed, undressed and put in a couple of sleeping bags. My mitts had been carried away in the avalanche and my fingers were numb, particularly those of my right hand in which I had been carrying my axe. I had got frostbite but was not at that stage sure how serious it was (it turned out to be mild). Next morning I thought about things: with my twisted leg ( now quite painful) and my hands I doubted if I could climb back to Andrew's body, and the others were neither equipped or had the experience to accompany me. Morever I did not feel it was justified to expose them to the sort of risk that had killed Andrew. The only hope appeared to be a helicopter. Therefore I sent Manprasad down to Jumla - the liaison officer had returned to BC, while we had been climbing and gave him a message to pass to col Terry  Bowring in the British Embassy in KTM: we would wait for a helicopter, but if nothing was forthcoming we would have to leave Andrew and return to Jumla. Manprasad set off for Jumla early on 2 May and he returned on 7 May with a reply: no helicopter. (Later I discovered the Nepalese have formed the very sensible policy of not risking helicopters to recover dead bodies). He also brought the naike and six porters, so we set off down to Jumla on 8th May reaching it on 9th May and camped in our old place by the airstrip. In the six weeks we had been away every thing had become much greener.

  Early next morning it started to rain heavily and about 11:00 as I was making a final refuge against the ever rising water in my tent I heard an English voice outside. Man Prasad told me of a mysterious "Save the Children Fund" person who had given him a great deal of help when he had come down to Jumla with the message. The mysterious person turned out to Richard Thwaites whom I had known while he was in the Army. He had retired and had taken up a job with "Save the children Fund." His presence raised my spirits considerably. I decided we would move into the "Karnali" Hotel in Jumla where he was based, and which would at least be drier than the Jumla airstrip. Richard also helped to fix our return, grossly overladen, on a scheduled Twin Otter to KTM, which we reached on 12 May.


expid: MAK277101
peakid: MAK2
year: 1977
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Makoto Numata
sponsor: Himalayan Expedition of Chiba University 1977
bcdate: 1977-04-27
smtdate: 1977-05-15
termdate: 1977-05-17
termnote: Abandoned at 7450m due to strong winds and snowfall
campsites: BC(27/04,4800m),C1(29/04,5300m),C2(02/05,5800m),C3(07/05,6420m),C4(14/05,7000m),xxx(15/05,7450m)
routememo:
  Yoshinaga & Toriumi - 22 June 77

  Weather bad, strong wind and snowfall; reason for defeat.
  NW Ridge route, same route as 1976.

  In March-April only acclimatization, BC established 27 April.

  15 May Murata and [Sonam] Sherpa in summit attempt reached 7450m 3:30 pm and then returned because snowfall. No 2nd attempt. 1 member broken finger. No manpower.


  Jha, MTA - 20 May 77

  Abandoned on 16th May. Reached 7450m 15th May 3:30 pm before finally called off attempt. 2 men, Akira Murata and Sonam Sherpa, reached high point. C4 7000m 14th May at 2 pm by Nobukazu [Toriumi]. Leaving BC and reaching KTM 20 June by foot.


  Johnson and Bozman of Makalu I expedition - 16 May 77

  Japanese Makalu II expedition leaving their BC 17th May, They too plagued with illness; only one member healthy; they started climbing well before late April. 


  Jha, MFA - 13 May 77

  Makalu II: Chiba U, Japanese C3 6420m on 7th May 15:00 hrs by 
    Akira Murata
    Sonam
    Sonam Tshering 
    Danu

  All members well weather fine - snowing at base camp every morning. 
  (5 camps planned - NW Ridge).


  Jha, MFA - 8 May 77

  BC 27th April  4800m
  C1 29th April  5300m
  C2 2nd  May    5800m

  All through weather fine and all in excellent health. C2 established by Murata and 3 Sherpas.


  Nobukazu Toriumi - 5 March 77

  Trying 1st spring ascent. Same NW Ridge route as No Japanese success 13th Oct 5 camps. Spring warmer and longer last time from Chiba U. In 71 much snowfall and 1 dead. This expedition brings memorial for dead member from KTM and put it on a rock face. Toriumi flies to Turlingtar 10 March meets others. Main party left KTM 25 Feb to Dharan and leader by air 1 March. Started caravan 2 March and reach Sedua 15 March to change porters to cross Shipton pass. Arrive BC area 1 April (permit for bringing climbing only 28 April so officially BC 28 April).

  Climbing 6 weeks with C5 7300m. C3 same as Sepyo party but main C4 much closer to C3 the Sepyo and now add C5.

  Walung Dorje sirdar and 3 HA Sherpas and cook, etc. 

  Numata Leader - same as but comes only to KTM to meet friends and arrange for survey expedition which begins April. Some stay in Nepal to late June.


expid: KTSU77101
peakid: KTSU
year: 1977
route1: W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kozi Mizutani
sponsor: Osaka Alpine Club Expedition to Kagmara Himal
approach: Jumla->Hurikot->Garpung Khola
bcdate: 1977-03-28
smtdate: 1977-04-29
termdate: 1977-05-06
termnote: Abandoned at 6150m due to technically difficult ridge
campsites: BC(28/03,4220m),C1(04/04,4950m),C2(13/04,2550m),C3(22/04,5650m),C4(27/04,6050m),xxx(29/04,6150m)
routememo:
  Mizutani - 17 May 77

  All members came back. No accident to members in avalanche C2 28th April. 2 Sherpas in tent and tent broken but Sherpas Ok.

  C4 established 27th April 6050m by 4 members. 28th April made route. 29th April attack for summit by Fujimoto and Kono. Left C4 8:00 am and 3 hrs climbing very knife W Ridge. Came back because very dangerous, reached 6150m. Necessary to fix rope all way but more left to fix. Weather no good - snowfall.

  With more fixed rope and other route = BC in other place but same ridge.
  Leave Kathmandu 25-26th May.


  Jha - 9 May 77

  From LO: attempt given up on 29th April because 300m long ridge on way to summit was difficult and unfortunately weather wiped out chances for team to make further attempt. Team left 6th May for Jumla and KTM.


  Lohni - 1 May 77

  C3 22 April 5650m. All well. 

  4 made camp: Fujimoto, Kai, Morioka and Kono


  Mizutani - 12 March 77

  Caravan route west from Jumla to Hurikot village to Garpung Khola to BC at 4800m. Caravan about 10 days from BC over North-South Ridge across glaciers and up another North-South Ridge northwards to final West Ridge of their 6440m peak. Peak is east of Phoksundo Lake; local name is Kangchunne. C3 about 6000m;

  Summit attack end of April.

  Fujimoto, Kona and Nishigaki arrive KTM 14 March.


  Yoshinaga - 12 March 77

  East of Rashemba and little higher (Tyson fluted Peak) - local name unknown - Kangchunne?  < 21,440 

  1 member and 2 Sherpas to Jumla already.
  14th - 1 more member
  17th - remaining members including deputy leader to Jumla on scheduled flight. About 20th caravan states. 5-6 days reach last village and from then 3-4 made days to BC before Kagmara La on west side.

  6 members and absentee leader. 3 Sherpas including Kitchen (sirdar=Anu Sherpa)
  Summit attack end of April - 3 high altitude camps with C3 about 6100m. Top 6440m.

  route = North Col of Kagmara and down little into glaciers (here C2). From here 1000m climb up South Face to West Ridge, very narrow snow ridge. 


expid: KANG77101
peakid: KANG
year: 1977
route1: E Spur-N Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Narinder Kumar
sponsor: Indian Army Expedition
ascent1: 3rd
approach: Sikkim->Zemu Glacier
bcdate: 1977-03-24
smtdate: 1977-05-31
smttime: 1454
termdate: 1977-06-09
accidents: Sukhvinder Singh fatal fall off ice cliff
campsites:
  BC(24/03,4940m),ABC(5100m),C1(01/04,5720m),C2(05/04,6000m),C3(30/04,6300m),C4(12/05,6630m),C5(18/05,7230m,C6(24/05,7630m),C7(30/05,7990m),Smt(31/05)


expid: CHRE77101
peakid: CHRE
year: 1977
route1: N Ridge of E Smt
nation: Japan
leaders: Kazuhiro Sato
sponsor: Himalayan Expedition of Kawasaki Alpine Club 1977
approach: Jumla->Kaya Khola
bcdate: 1977-03-15
smtdate: 1977-04-18
termdate: 1977-05-04
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to avalanche
campsites: BC(15/03,4660m),C1(21/03,4970m),C2(28/03,5680m),C3(10/04,6300m),xxx(18/04,6700m)
accidents: 2 Sherpas injured in avalanche
routememo:
  H. Miyagawa - 11 May 77

  Tokuma Fuse, Hisao Miyagawa, Maasaki Maruyama and Tatsuo Katano arrive today and 2 Sherpas; others in Nepalgunj and came to KTM 2 or 3 days later.

  C3 6300m 10 April day for way making C4 avalanche struck. 2 Sherpas and Miyagawa caught in ice avalanche; party on fixed rope with Sherpas ahead. Going up fixed ropes made to 6700m days before by Takao Sato and Kinshiro Miyagawa. 6700m where C4 to be pitched.

  2 Sherpas, Pasang in Shanta Bhawan and Lhakpa Norbu in KTM home.
  Carried down to BC after avalanche.
  C2-C3 very steep.


  Ranjan - 6 May 77

  Helicopter went today to Churen to bring Sherpas, but couldn't find the place; will not try again because message very old and in KTM no one knowns really where expedition is. 


  Maruyama, et al - 29 Jan 77

  4 members now in KTM; 6 others arrive 7 or 10 Feb.

  Fly to Jumla about 2-3 March. Thence to north side Churen Himal to Kaya Khola with BC up Khola at about 5000m. Up Ridge of East Peak and thence along Ridge to West Peak via traverse of Central Peak.

  This expedition 1st via northern side
  11-12 days Jumla -> BC
  5 camps above BC; C5 on ridge between West Peak and East Peak at 7300m and C4 on top West Peak.
  Reach BC 15 March. Summit end April
  4 Sherpas and 1 sirdar = 5
  1 new member


  Sato & wife

  Members fly to Jumla on 16th and 17th and baggage on 19th and 20 Febuary; start caravan 23rd Feb; 15 days caravan and arrive BC about 10 March.
  1 sirdar, Lhakpa Tsering
  3 HA Sherpas
  1 cook 
  1 kitchen boy, maybe to C1 or C2

  Route and camps as given by Marayama, 29 Jan 1977 correct.


expid: MAKA77101
peakid: MAKA
year: 1977
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Jeff Long, John Roskelley
sponsor: Makalu Himalaya Expedition
countries: UK, Yugoslavia
approach: Dharan->Shipton La->Barun Glacier
bcdate: 1977-03-28
termdate: 1977-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to avalanche danger and many member illnesses
campsites: BC(28/03,4875m),ABC(5600m),C1(07/04,6400m),C2(16/04,6700m),xxx(7000m)
routememo:
  Jeff long - 22 May 77

  All members now in KTM except Korich; "expedition of hypochondriacs."
  Highest point was 23,000 ft, 2 ropes short of C3 site.


  Jha, MFA - 20 May 77

  Abandoned attempt to scale on 9th May due to illness and injury of some members and big avalanche near C2. Bad weather caused avalanches and rockfall. C2 buried under 5m snow. Team managed to clean West Face of all ropes and equipment except C2. Established BC 28 March, C2 7660m. Team left for KTM 13 May.


  Johnson & Bozman - 16 May 77

  Left Makalu BC 5th May; he had thrombosis, went down to lower BC to recover, tried to go back up but health wouldn't permit more climbing; she goes where he goes.

  All others leaving BC in one group on 12th May. In KTM about 24th May.
  Highest point reached = just under 23,000 ft by Boris and Matija probably.

  Maybe made C3, maybe didn't and instead cleared mountain of all trash, fixed ropes, everything to leave it as virgin as possible.

  Rock fall hazard.


  Vicenzi - 11 May 77

  Conley still in KTM ill
  Vicenzi retinal hemorrhage
  Lowe pulmonary edema
  Childs cracked ribs from falling rock
  Hutter couldn't sleep
  Johnson bloods clots (leaving BC) 
  Nuefeld frostbitten toes
  Vicenzi left BC 3rd with Rodney Korich who came to T'tar for rest - arrive KTM today.
  2 days later Narka came down to collect porters to clear BC about now
  Young terrible cold at BC
  Matija grazed by rock through tent at C2 and really tired 
  None of girls carrying were climbing.

  2 Yugos, Collins, Childs
  They were working on C3 but probably abandoned it.

  No strong leadership to keep people from going too high. Adv BC too high.

  Food bad: breakfasts and lunches inedible at BC. HA food good, but people not eating enough to keep strength.


  Pandey, MFA - 4 May 77

  C2 22,000 ft, 16 April
  4 members left because of health and 1 for personal family reasons.
  Snow most days after 12 noon.
  Big avalanche almost to BC 23 April


  Al Read - 24 April 77

  Mike Lowe and Peter Quesada, both suffering from high altitude sickness, left expedition (Mike 10 days ago) and are now in KTM.

  Quesada left BC 1 week ago; the expedition should have had Quesada to C2 by now and on way to C3. 2 Yugoslavs very strong.

  Quesda and Lowe leave for USA.


  Drummond - 14 April 77

  Drummond left BC 6 days ago on 8th (personal problems at home and doesn't like siege technique); almost to C1 - illnesses 

  Quesada - hypothermia
  Johnson - pulmonary edema and embolism
  Diane Spitzer - pneumonia
  BC now at 18,500 feet
  (old BC is left as R+R place)
  Real difficulties begin at 25,000 feet and expedition hasn't much fixed rope.


  Corley - 8 April 77

  Geoff Corley returned to KTM from Tumlingtar yesterday afternoon hoping to return to expedition, but first to seek medical advice in KTM whether he has typhoid fever or not.


  Msg dated 30 March from Korich to MFA, received KTM 7 April 77

  Makalu Base camp, 28 March, 16,000 feet
  Weather clear mornings afternoon clouds
  Geoff Corley sick with fever and stomach disorder


  Roskelley - 16 March 77

  Roskelley and Burns returning to States without climbing; Roskelley ill (bladder stones?, etc).


  Jeff Long - 6 March 77

  2 face members arrive day after ridge; rest arrive 11th or 12th; fly to Tumlingtar - 2 + weeks to BC.

  Probably South Face. Not much hope of West Face because of technical difficulty at high altitude.

  No Sherpas above BC.

  Relaxed expedition above BC; relaxed expedition but not so much as Fritz's.
  10 really strong climbers and 5 helpers - will be leadership 
  3 medical oxygen only, so climbing without oxygen
  KTM Guest House 51 - Long
                  14 - Roskelley


  Roskelley - 3 March 97

  Internation Makalu Expedition

  John Roskelley, 28, from Spokane Wash
  Dane Burns, 23, from Kellog, Idaho
  West Ridge pair
  15 total including 3 women (maybe climbers)
  Jeff Long, 28, coleader from Boulder, Colorado. He's in Delhi, arrive maybe 4 March

  USA British Yugo and Canada (?) 
   11   1      2         2


  Roskelley & Long, co-leaders
  Longs's party try West Face if any problems then South Face. West Face never tried before. 
  West Ridge = French 1971 route
  Roskelley and Burns leave KTM soon as possible to Tumlingtar
  Only Sherpas at BC
  Establish BC 3rd week March at 16,000 ft at base South Face on Makalu Glacier

  Roskelley and Burns 4 or 5 camps above BC; not alpine-style; others 5 or 6 camps depending on route.

  Only medical oxygen; climb without oxygen; long term more a hindrance than asset; oxygen sets fail and mean extra weight.

  Total cost $60,000


expid: EVER77101
peakid: EVER
year: 1977
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Keith Woodford
sponsor: New Zealand Everest Expedition 1977
countries: Canada
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1977-03-14
smtdate: 1977-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to strong winds and exhaustion
campsites:
  BC(14/03,5400m),C1(19/03,5880m),C2(29/03,6160m),C3(05/04,6580m),C4(20/04,6740m),C5(25/04,7560m),C6(26/04,7980m),xxx(14/05,8000m)

routememo:
  Woodford - 26 May 77

  Woodford, Twomey and Andrews arrive 1st flight; rest except Cunninghame (on trek) 2nd flight.

  If we'd been climbing Lhotse think we'd have got to top too. But for Everest long traverse and needed several good days in succession but we were lucky if had 6 hours.

  Winds on Col was lookouts and Mahoney said strongest winds he had ever met. After 65 days we had pretty much used up our strength. One of our problems isLhotse face incredibly long - doesn't look steep. From top of face to Col, consensus was if got to Col and struck bad weather no way get back without fixed rope and with our resources we hadn't strength to put in fixed rope all way to Col. If decide possible to climb Everest without oxygen could use fast thrust. If we'd decided go just for Col, could have been there about 10 April - logistics for 26,000 ft probably 25% those for 29,000 ft if using oxygen.

  Probably Everest will been climbed by small party but only just possible and will take very strong party. If we'd had reasonable weather conditions we could have had done it, but with difficult snow and ice conditions, the mountain was just too big for us.

  We had strong party who pulled together for 65 days above 18,000 ft, but at end of those 65 days we were just too tired to make a big push to get to summit.

  Sure slept on oxygen at C5 at about 25,000 ft and Mahoney and Browne started off using oxygen on way to Col but stopped using it because not giving enough help for its weight.

  Avalanche member 12 carried up from BC through Icefall.

  2 broken ribs (Twomey & Woodford) and last having trouble with blood circulation - no frostbite but same numb fingers and toes.

  Everybody was able to carry and all went to C5.


  JMO Roberts - 19 May 77

  Regarding NZ: Techniques employed wrong trying to behave as though they were ordinary expedition. Such a team should have made rapid thrust. They did do very well.


  Jha, MFA - 19 May 77

  Everest from LO abandoned 15 May following strong wind and chilling cold despite nice weather.

  2 members Browne and Mahoney, reached South col 7986m (date not given)
  All members well.


  Lohni - 25 March 77

  19 March Everest C1 at 19,400 feet and one member stayed there (no name given).


  Keith Woodford - 10 Feb 77

  Total 8, other 4 arrive probably on 14th. 

  March in in together. Couple days around Khunde-Namche, then perhaps slowly to BC or fairly rapidly depending on snow and members feel well. Prefer to get into BC and Icefall ahead of Germans so on not to be accused of following in their footsteps. (Germans not to South Col).

  Like to be BC by 15 March but could well be earlier will try for 5 camps without one on Ridge (with carrying biv sack but hoping to get back to camp on Col).

  Not having Sherpas means: "we have do lot more carrying; build up a lot slower; more flexibility and more cohesiveness in small expedition; everybody has personal stake that much greater."

  Summit "sometime in May."

  Hillary, Kohli, Bonington think chances small.

  "Sporting chance" we think. Prefer to fail as small group than to succeed as large group" since done so many times before.

  Only 20 oxygen tanks. Some left in camps for emergency. Sleep on oxygen in C5 and climb on oxygen above col.

  Chinese did not grant permission. Woodford took over New Zealand expedition from Nepalese side for Spring 1977.


  Letter from Keith Woodford - 8 May 77

  C5 was established at 24,800 ft at the top of the Lhotse Face on 25 April. Subsequent attempts to reach the South Col from the camp have been stopped by very high winds; and blizzard conditions for much of the last two weeks have seriously delayed progress.

  After six weeks of load carrying everyone is very tired, but weather permitting we hope to make a summit attempt within the next two weeks.

  Everest is big. I seem to have been here for a lifetime. We progress slowly. (C5 on upper Lhotse Face has been established and used). Six of us came down yesterday to let the weather settle after some stormy days. A marathon trip; trail breaking all the way and often near white-out. 

  Icefall getting very broken in places; changing rapidly now too. Today hot and sunny, though cirrus cloud coming quickly from SW now and a big bank of cirro stratus beyond Tawoche and Cholatse. Maybe today is just the hole in the centre of the weather system. About 4' fresh snow here at BC.


  Letter from Keith Woodford - 17 April

  At present all 8 members are at Camp 2 at 21,600 ft. We are at 23,000 ft, on the lower part of the Lhotse Face.

  At the moment we are in the middle of snowstorm from the south which has us sheltering in the tents. For the last 3 days it has retraced progress and today brought a very definite halt.

  The winds have been gushing in the 80 mph or greater and we've had some problems with broken tent poles, etc. But everything has been repairable. Now the wind has died away somewhat but snow is pulling steadily at 2 inches every hour. We will just have a wait for wind changes until the wind starts blowing from Tibet again.

  Conditions on the Lhotse Face are extremely icy and given good weather we expect it well week before we reach the South Col.  


  Letter from Keith Woodford, BC - March 15

  We spent 4 days at Khunde and left for Thyangboche on March 10 in heavy mist. Spent one night at Thyangboche, Periche.

  Dowd, Mike Andrews and I came through to BC on 13 March find a suitable site, returning to Gorak Shep that night.

  We established BC yesterday (45 yak loads and 20 porters). Mike Browne, Art Twomey, Mike Mahoney and I are at present staying at Base. The others together with Captain Shah are acclimatizing at Gorak Shep and Lobuche. All are expected where within 3-4 days.

  BC is very close to the American site from last year and is at 17,700 ft. For the next two days we are employing 3 Sherpas to help us build rock walls for shelter.

  The weather is fine each morning but the clouds starts building up late morning and most days we are getting afternoon snowfalls. Above 22,000 ft the westerly winds appear to be very strong. 

  The Khumbu Icefall looks very broken this year and may take us several days to find a route through it.


expid: EVER77301
peakid: EVER
year: 1977
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Young-Do
sponsor: Korean Everest Expedition
ascent1: 23rd
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1977-08-09
smtdate: 1977-09-15
smttime: 1250
campsites:
  BC(09/08,5400m),C1(16/08,6100m),C2(19/08,6450m),C3(26/08,7400m),C4(07/09,7980m),C5(08/09,8500m),Smt(15/09)

routememo:
  Leader Kim - 24 Sept 77

  Arrived today: Chang Moon-Haing, Kim Young-Do, Ko Sang-Don, Kim Byong-Joon and Lee Sang-Youn. 

  I think our team had luck. None of our members suffered any HA sickness, just kept moving on and weather very good.

  Heavy snow at top and they had lot of problems to make route - why we made 2 attempts.

  1st team very eager to climb up and tried to break world record and without oxygen overnight at 8500m. This planned to do without oxygen, sleeping bag just biv.

  1st summit party almost to summit. Climbed reached over Hillary step but then exhausted from deep snow to neck but had oxygen on climb. Spiritual power zeal also reason for success.

  Park frostbitten right heal but will be all right - only frostbite. Also blindness from lack oxygen 1 night.

  Friendly co-operation of Sherpas 
  Icefall 24
  HA      25

  Ko: as he reached top could not be sure on top because could not find Chinese tripod and thought as wrong peak. Very confused, wanted Sherpa take photo. Felt something underfoot and found top of tripod 10 cm under snow so confirmed on right peak and very happy as alpinist and Korean. Dug more and found all of tripod. Left there after pix.

  Leader wanted to send all up but placed only 2 assaults and used up all oxygen in these 2 assaults.

  Korean will devote himself by improving Korean alpinism. Wants to come to Nepal: maybe Makalu.

  Leader emotionally speaking very satisfied. 


  Jha, MFA - 16 Sept

  Following 1st set back in 1st assault by Korean expedition to Everest last weeks, Koreans made program for 2nd assault:

  21-year-old Ko Sang-Don and 28-year-old Pemba Nurbu reached C5 14 Sept. Were 6 supporting Sherpas who spend over night with them in C5. Those 6 supporting Sherpas returned to C4 next day moving, having left food and equipment in C5.

  15 Sept in early am (04:00 hrs) Ko + P Sherpa left C5 towards summit. Reached South summit 09:30 hours and reached summit 12:50 hours and spent 1 hour on summit and returned downwards - are well.

  After 3 days heavy snowfall, weather was fine on 15. They used all 28 cylinders oxygen on 15th and would have had to abandon attempt if failed on 15th. 


  Chang - 25 June 77

  Leader Kim will probably stay at BC, even go above but maybe return to Korea.

  For Everest: 4 years preparation in Korea (1 man died in training) and 2 years in Nepal. Think will succeed.

  Korea Alpine Federation controlled by Korea Ministry Education.

  Each city or province Alpine Federation in expedition training past 4 years. All members amateur climbers.


  Chang Moon-Sam - 24 June 77

  50 Sherpas above BC
  30 to C2
  22 to summit
  15 climbing members 
  South Col route - using oxygen. 
  Advance team members - rewst arrive 4th July.
  All walk to Khumbu - 700 porter for 21 tons baggage.


expid: DHA177301
peakid: DHA1
year: 1977
route1: SSW Face (btw S Pillar & S Ridge)
nation: Japan
leaders: Yoshito Tsukazaki, Minoru Takagi
sponsor: Japanese Kansai Dhaulagiri I Expedition 1977
bcdate: 1977-08-19
smtdate: 1977-10-09
termnote: Abandoned at 6550m due to route difficult and dangerous and exhaustion
campsites:
  BC(19/08,3500m),C1(24/08,4400m),C2(27/08,4950m),C3(04/09,5300m),C4(17/09,5830m),C5(03/10,6250m),xxx(09/10,6550m)

routememo:
  Correct route for 1977 autumn Japanese on Dhaulagiri I was: a spur on SSW Face between South Pillar and South Ridge (according to Yves Pollet-Villard and Jean Coudray, Nov 78).


  Jha - 4 Oct 77

  Abandoned Sun 9 Oct after reaching 6550m well above C5. Leader and LO say reasons:

  1) 1 member Ippommatsu injured in his face by falling rock about 1 week ago.
  2) Most members very much exhausted.
  3) West Face very steep and difficult and dangerous.
   
  Injured man helicoptered to KTM today.

  Sukazi 
  Ippommatsu
  Miss Fukuhiro

  Ippommatsu received treatment in BC - could not walk, but not in hospital.


  Ranjan - 11 Oct 77

  3 injured in hotel; broken bones in face and join leaves Sat with leader and girlfriend.


  Tsukazaki - 20 Sept 77

  Tsukazaki, wife of Takagi and fiancee of Ippommatsu go to BC by helicopter in next one week. They have just arrived from Japan. Fiancee (Miss Noriko Fukuhiro) and Ippommatsu will be married in Buddhist ceremony at BC after climbing finished member. Mizuta, arrived from BC yesterday and is flying to Japan 25 Sept because wife just had baby.
   
  Mizuta reports expedition made C3 on 5 Sept at 5300m.  
  Route is West Face.

  * oxygen taken but probably not used.


  11 Oct 1977

  Japanese Kansai Dhaulagiri Expedition on 9th Oct. Abandoned their attempt scale 8167m Himalaya giant by unclimbed west face following injuries to a member, Fumio Ippommatsu, and exhaustion of others on this extremely "steep" difficult and dangerous route.

  Ippommatsu, his fiancee Miss Noriko Hukuhiro and expedition leader and doctor Yoshito Tsukazi helicoptered from BC to KTM today. Reuters has learned Ippommatsu, who Ministry reports was struck by falling rock about 1 week ago, probably has broken bones in face and jaw, and he with fiancee and leader will leave here Saturday for Japan.

  Ippommatsu and Hukuhiro were to be married in Buddhist ceremony at base camp after climbing finished, but Reuters' source says wedding will now take place in Japan instead.

  Ministry said expedition reached maximum height of 6550m on West Face before giving up. Earlier Ministry report announced 5th high altitude camp had been pitched at 6250m 3 Oct more than 2 weeks after C4 placed at 5830m. Highest point of 6550m left 1600m vertical meters still to go on steep and difficult face with added danger from falling rock. Last spring noted North Tyrolian mountaineer Reinhold Messner, leading an expedition to Dhaulagiri I himself and defeated on South Face by dangerous avalanching, examined West Face as possible alternate route and made no attempt to climb after seeing its dangers.

  Dhaulagiri I expedition finally managed make 5th high altitude camp on extremely difficult West Face route they are pioneering. The basic information indicates they are moving very slowly but moving and require considerable more time and at least two more high camps before in position to make summit bid. But time is working is working against them: fiercely bitterly cold winds from Tibet can begin battering them andy day now, defeat the best of mountaineers.


expid: TUKU77301
peakid: TUKU
year: 1977
nation: Japan
leaders: Takao Imai
sponsor: Toho-Keiryu-Kai Alpine Club
accidents: Member killed in bus accident enroute to mountain
routememo:
  Imai, et al - 17 Aug 77

  Expedition cancelled. Kobayashi's (ribs) chest injured but not broken or fractured. Bus took curves fast on hairpin curves. Asking today JAC if Inoue's parents coming to KTM. Body to be held for parents and 3 members wait for answer. Bus stopped for team's lunch and then they walked towards [Trisuli] river. Bus came to pick them up and came down curve at very high speed. I ran but Inoue hit and knocked him 30m to rocky side of river; died on way to KTM of massive internal injuries. Kobayashi hit by baggage on top of bus. Driver said brakes failed but factor may be heavy baggage on top and no passengers. Accident 2:15 pm. Reached hospital 6:25 pm by public bus. 2 Sherpas and Sato & Kobayashi hurt.

  In bus were: 
    4 expedition Japanese
    1 trekking Japanese
    4 expedition Sherpas including mailrunner and cook
    1 LO 
    7 assistants to trekking Japanese


  Imai & Sato - 14 Aug 77

  Leave KTM 16 Aug by bus to Pokhara. Pokhara -> BC 17-27 Sept
  BC 4300-4600m, C4 6600m 
  Summit 5-10 Oct.
  Route via NE Face. New route - very difficult: steep ice face, hence need for 4 camps
  2 summit teams of 2 men each
  2 Sherpas - can go to C4 but not summit.
  No doctor on team
  Sato to fly strong kite from top.


expid: ANN377301
peakid: ANN3
year: 1977
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Francesco Santon
sponsor: Italian Expedition to Annapurna III
ascent1: 3rd,4th
approach: Pokhara->Modi Khola->Annapurna Sanctuary (BC)
bcdate: 1977-10-07
smtdate: 1977-10-23
smttime: 1300
campsites: BC(07/10,4000m),C1(09/10,4950m),C2(09/10),C3(11/10),C4(20/10,6000m),C5(22/10,6800m),Smt(23,25/10)
routememo:
  Leader Santon - 5 Nov 77

  Radin broken leg and slight finger frostbite but not unconscious - otherwise MFA correct except 2nd team went summit on 25th and spent night 25/26 in C5. Radian's accident near C4 12:00 hrs on 26th when Brianzi on his rope slipped and fell and hope he belaying by injured his leg same place where Radin injured. Henry fell 8 pm 23rd near C4 and fell 300m into crevasse. Body in crevasse: not possible to recover, all others well.

  27 members: for unknown climbers also to be able to come to Himalayas. If no accidents total 19 to top including 3 women who were in C4 and 2 in C3.

  Route was West Ridge not SW Pillar - not new route. When looked at mountain, Southwest Pillar would have taken 60-70 days.

  C1 to top very good weather. BC and C1 always in fog.

  Whole team leaves Mon by RNAC. All members in KTM - Radin by helicopter yesterday (is in hotel not hospital).

  Women poised for top:
    Brusegan & Rossi in C5
    De Eccher & Perale in C3


  Jha, MFA -28 Oct 77

  C3 - 11 Oct 5000m 15:00 by Brainzi, Radin, Gadenz
  C2 - by 7 members including these 9 Oct (not altitude).
  C1 - 4620m 1-2 days earlier.
  C4 - in couple of weeks.
  All well


  Bigio & Cepparo - 23 Sept 77

  Expect leave 27 Tuesday; waiting for more baggage to arrive probably today.
  Bus to Pokhara, 1 night there. 6 days to BC via Modi Khola. Don't know exactly where BC but 3900-4000m on grass.

  Route via Southwest Pillar.
  Probably 5 camps above BC, C5 7000m. 
  10 Sherpas.
  No oxygen for climbing.

  27 Italians including women really climbing (14 more, will trek to BC for 2 days visit, arrive BC about 10 Oct).

  1st members on summit 25 days after BC.
  All climbers expect 2 or 3 have technical possibility to reach summit.

  Considering weather, acclimatization, etc. Maybe actually 12 on top; want at least 1 woman to get to top.

  1 group of 5 scientists - chemistry of water in river and glaciers - bottle systemfication entymologist measurement.

  Most difficult parts of climb: getting on to pillar and rock barrier on pillar about 5700-6000m.


  Two members of the 27 members club Alpino Italino Expedition to 7548 meter Annapurna III namely Henry Luigino and Mr. Cheney Giuseppino along with Mr. Pasang Temba Sherpa of Paplu village had reached the summit on 23rd October at 13:00 hours. They were however struck with a terrible accident on their way back to C4 with another member Mr. Albiero Giacomo and Mr. Ang Dorje Sherpa who were in Camp 5. They started their decent at about 16:00 hours under the impression that the decent will be easier than the ascent but due to the snow and weather condition, they met with an accident.

  At about 20:00 hrs when they left about 100m Mr. Luigino who was decending, suddenly fell down into a crevasse. His body found 300m below the next day. He sustained injury on his head and face. He was found lying lifeless.

  Meanwhile two other members of the expedition namely Mr. Brianzi Giorgio and Mr. Radin Piero who were in Camp 5 on 23rd Oct not knowing the accident, went to the summit on 24th Oct 1977. They spent the night on 25th in Camp 5 when they were returning on 25th Mr. Radin Piero had an accident. He sustained a leg injury and was conscious for many hours. At about 23 hours he again regained his consciousness and other helping him were able to bring him to C4 at about 13:00 hours only.

  Most of the other members waiting for another bid to the summit had decided to return because of this tragic incident.

  The Italian expedition had left the base camp yesterday on 30th October on their way back to KTM.

  The Italian expedition had earlier pitched its Camp 5 on 22nd Oct at 12:00 hours at an altitude of 6800m and fourth camp at an altitude 6000m  on 20th October.

  Mr. Henry Luigino, Mr. Cheney Giuseppino, Mr Albiero Giacoma and Mr. Ang Dorje Sherpa and Mr. Pasang Temba made these Camps 4 and 5.

  According to a report received here from the base camp yesterday rest of the members though tired are otherwise in good condition.


expid: ROKA77301
peakid: ROKA
year: 1977
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Richard Harry Godfrey
sponsor: British Northumbria Himalaya Expedition
ascent1: 1st
bcdate: 1977-09-27
smtdate: 1977-10-10
smttime: 1023
termdate: 1977-10-16
campsites: BC(27/09,3800m),C1(30/09,4600m),C2(02/10,5300m),C3(03/10,5800m),Smt(10/10)
routememo:
  MJ Cheney (from HA porter Tamang) - 31 Oct 77

  Herley, McLane and Godfrey only members who reached BC at start.

  Wilson only at BC 3 days before expedition left at end of climbing. Wilson went down with sick party, so only 3 men climbed mountain - of when 2 went off for 1 week while others set about packing up with 15 Oct as deadline for departure.

  All 4 (including Tamang) carried up to C1.
  3 members to C2. Two seen leaving C3 on 6 Oct and weren't seen again.

  All reappeared on 15th itself just before others left via different route having reached summit 10 Oct. Were on Rokapi.


  Jha, MFA - 25 Oct 77

  British Nampa South successfully scaled summit 10:23 hours 10 Oct. Spent about 1-1/2 hours on summit and took rest there. Thomas Herley, Kelvin McLane conquered peak. Expedition expected to reach Dangari 27 Oct. 4 members:

  Richard Godfrey, Herley, McLane and John Burslen leave Dhangari to Delhi on 27 Oct. All in good weather.


  Lohani, MFA - 14 Oct 77

  Nampa South

  C3 19,000 ft  3 Oct
  C2 17,500 ft  2 Oct
  C1 15,000 ft 30 Sept

  Richard Harry Godfrey (leader)
  Kenneth Rawlinson
  Thomas G Herley made C1


  Jha, MFA - 4 Oct 77

  Nampa South - 6754m

  BC 27 Sept 1300 hours about 12,500 ft by leader, Wilson, Herley and 1 HA Sherpa and 18 porters. 
  ***


  Wilson - 4 Sept 77

  Rokapi (Nampa South)

  Almost certainly will approach from other from southeast side as Kellas's, but if not possible to climb could be forced onto Kellas's side. Hope will be climbing a buttress (don't want face because of avalanche danger) and are best on rock. Have tentage for several camps. Do expect to put series of camps.
   
  BC around snow lines so porters will take everything there 14,000.
  Adv BC about 16,000, +3 high camps maximum.
  No HA porters at all.
  All others in Delhi. Wilson to Delhi on Tues/Wed, 2 days minimum to Pithagath. Fri 8th hope to be arranging porters to BC.
  9-10 days march to BC hope to be back out leaving Nepal last of Oct.
  30-35 days of climbing.


  From Kelvin McLane

  As we approached the intended site for base camp Rokapi kept itself hidden until the very last moment. As we rounded the rock ridge running into the Rokapi Khola, suddenly there it was - towering clear and glistening white at the head of the valley.

  At first it was difficult to identify the true summit, but eventually we agreed on the fine regular cone which showed from behind the jumbled bulk of a subsidiary summit. This subsidiary was skirted on all sides visible by hanging glaciers and seracs, and we nicknamed it the "Meringue."

  We were eager to make a closer inspection. Next day Tom and I left base camp and threaded our way through the moraines under the long South Face of Jethi Borani to gain a vantage point where we could better decide on a route to the summit.

  It was the first time we had seen the mountain from this side. We had been unable to obtain photographs from the one other expedition to have been in this valley. The Japanese team had fixed four camps on Jethi Borani in 1977, before being turned back. They intend to return in 1978, pre-monsoon, for a second attempt.

  Tom was keen to find a route leading onto the beautiful Northwest Ridge of the summit cone as it looked spectacular with the sun glinting off its icy walls. To reach this we would have to climb a long steep glacier falling in great steps from the Northwest Ridge to the very base of the mountain. The bristling walls of the Meringue overlooked its true left side.

  The alternative was to climb to the lowest point at the head of the valley - a col at about 16,000 ft and from there follow the very long Southwest Ridge to the top of the Meringue. The link between the Meringue and the summit was out of sight.

  We decided to investigate the glacier to the Northwest Ridge and quickly returned to base camp to give the news to Dick.

  The next day saw five of us grinding our way up the moraines, four carrying loaded sacs, but Mr. Pandy, our Liaison officer weighted down by only a water bottle.

  We pitched our Denali tent in the ice basin as far up the valley as safety would allow. Then Mr. Pandy and Krishna returned to base camp. That evening Dick, Tom and I were at last alone with our mountain. We watched the sun setting over the Api Nampa range, stuffed the gear into our biv tent and piled into the Denali to sleep.

  We took a rope, screws and ice climbing gear and leaving Dick to watch us through the telephoto lens Tom and I climbed up the steep lower slopes and seracs of the glacier. The ice was grey and hard, and free of snow. Higher up however we could see that there was a good covering snow. Our progress was slow. We measured our height against a buttress coming down from the Meringue and after four hours realised that the intricate route finding and hard technical climbing would mean we would have to spend a very long time on this glacier before attaining the Northwest Ridge. We abseiled off, leaving a few ice pegs and returned to camp I satisfied that the Southwest Ridge route was the best one offered by this side of the mountain.

  During that night it stormed. We emerged from the tent to a deep covering of snow reaching down the valley towards base camp. Tom and I, secretly a little thankful to postpone the start of the climb, sank back into our sleeping bags to eat away the rest of the day and build up our reserves. Dick returned alone to base camp for more supplies as he intended to spend a few days at Camp I to take photographs and watch our progress on the ridge. He managed to return to Camp I in the evening of the same day.

  Early on the morning of the third of October the three of us made our way up the glacier towards the Southwest Col. Dick stayed with us for half the day and then returned to Camp I. We were desperately short of time and two climbing would be fastest. We had estimated about seven hours from Camp I to ascend the glacier and climb the steep wall to the col. We were not yet accustomed to the scale of the Himalaya for we were only at the foot of the wall at 4 pm. It stormed and we hurriedly pitched our single skin nylon tent in the ice and with the wind and snow rattling outside, brewed up wondering what tomorrow might bring.

  Day 2, 4th October, dawned clear and cold, and we started up a steep
  gully to the left of the col in order to miss out a large rock step on the ridge. Tom led the initial pitches using deadmen for protection, but the snow was so loose and powdery over hard ice that they were worthless.

  The gully was much longer than we anticipated and steepened to about 60 degree as we neared the ridge. Kicking in, not being able to see our feet and feeling for ice with the front points of our crampons we eventually emerged on the ridge. At this point it was knife-edged wind-blown snow which looked as though it was likely to crumble down one side or the other at any moment. We managed to "demolish" it for two very steep pitches up the ridge to a rock buttress where we decided to biv. We accepted the routine of the afternoon snowstorm and started shovelling our ledge at 3:30 pm to be installed before the worst. It was exhausting work at the end of the day, but we took turns at it to ensure we would be as comfortable as possible during the night.

  Day 3, 5th October

  A large rock buttress formed the next section of the ridge and we were undecided to attempt it by traversing the wall on the right or left. We had seen the left wall from the valley below and remembered it as being very steep, so the right wall it was to be. We left our bivi site with the vertical and overhanging rocks rearing up above and moved out cautiously across the right wall. This side of the ridge turned out to be very steep ice fields running up to a band of rock which stretched into the mist above the and presumably to the crest of the ridge. We hoped to find a gully which would run up to the ridge above the rock step. After 6 or 7 pitches we had not found one that did not peter out in the middle of the rock band.

  Disappointed, we retraced our steps to the previous night's bivi site on the crest of the ridge and moved round onto the left wall. It was a gully which appeared to rejoin the ridge. It was very fine steep mixed climbing, finishing with a nasty bulge over ice to a crumbling slope above. The climbing was Scottish Grade 4 and very tiring at this altitude. We stayed on the left side of the ridge traversing very dangerous snow just below the cornice until we could break up onto the ridge. We followed this steeply for a few patches until, wondering if we would ever find a bivi site, we spotted a cave on the right wall ahead. Thankfully we pitched our tent in the mouth of the shallow cave - a good day's work.

  Days 4-5, 6th-7th Oct

  There is confusion over the events of these days as on our return Tom and I were under the mistaken impression we had started the climb on 5th Oct and reached the summit on the 10th. Dick, however, who maintained a daily record of events, proves we started climbing on the 3rd. We are certain of the time we reached the summit, but the intervening days have merged one with another and become hazy in our minds. As a result somewhere on the ascent Tom and I "lost" two days.

  Day 6, 8th October

  We moved up the knife-edged arete for a few pitches until it broadened and levelled out for a while. We made slow progress in deep snow with dangerously creaking cornices - very very tired.

  The face ahead reared up to the summit of the Meringue, but fortunately the right wall was not as broken as the left that we had been able to see from the valley. We made 600 ft up this in loose snow and pitched tent on a little horizontal ledge at the foot of an ice cliff.

  Day 7, 9th October

  It had not snowed during the night and it was very cold. We moved out right from the shelter of our cliff and started up for the summit of the Meringue. The snow was deep over hard ice. Tom was leading and I was belayed on a deadman. Suddenly there was rumble from above and I looked up to see tons of snow and Tom coming in my direction. Out of the corner of my eye I glimpsed another simultaneous avalanche about quarter of a mile along the face. As the snow hit me our belay was jerked loose and amidst noise and confusion we tumbled down the face. Fortunately this ran out to a small level section on the ridge. When everything was silent again I found myself dangling down a slope with Tom entrenched on the level section. Miraculously we had survived the fall of about 400 ft and were none the worse for our experience. Our one-piece windsuits had prevented snow getting inside our clothes. Tom, however, had lost one of his axes. Shaken, we climbed back up to our ice cliff bivi for the brew and to reassess the situation.

  Neither of us was keen to turn back. We were nearly at the top of the Meringue and wanted to see how it was linked to the summit. Besides, we felt there may a descent line from the back of the Meringue traversing the summit cone to the foot of the Northwest Ridge where we would be able to descend the glacier we had first thought of climbing.

  We moved out again and crossing the good ice of the avalanched area moved even further right to where the angle lessened. The snow condition was atrocious, but we reached the subsidiary summit to find there was a level we had hoped for looked possible.

  As we crossed the col it started to storm pretty badly and we made for an ice cliff to dig in a bivi. No good. There was no level place at the foot of the cliff as we expected, so we moved onto the main summit slopes to a bergschrund at the end of the col. The bergshrund was a slit about 2 ft wide which we were able to climb down into where it widened out. We cut a sloping ledge out of the green ice to hang the tent and settled down to an uncomfortable night in this dark green morgue.

  Day 8th, 10th October

  We both had a bad night and in the morning Tom was feeling too ill to make a push for the summit we were so close to. He had a very bad headache and did not seem able to think straight. I fished out our medical pack for headache pills and gave him three or four which he swallowed with a cup of tea. Almost immediately he vomited, just managing to protect the inside of the tent by the skillful use of his sun hat. Amazingly, after that he improved rapidly and within an hour we were prepared for the summit push.

  We carried all our pills in one poly bag and I have a suspicion that what I really gave him were sleeping tablets. Whatever they were they did the trick.

  Again we climbed up dangerous ground with a cornice hanging over the face on our right. The angle began to ease as we neared the summit. There were, what appeared to be fracture lines in the snow like giant crazy paving and we cautiously ploughed our tired way to the summit which we reached at 10:30 am. We shook hands and Tom did an impromptu little jig, and then thankfully we sat down in the snow for a rest.

  It was a clear day and we spent some time gazing around at the surrounding peaks and taking photographs. We could see what later we made out to be Changabang and Kalanka in the distance westward, but it was too hazy to make out Dhaulagiri or the Annapurna to the east.

  We were pleased to think there was an alternative route for our descent as we did not relish the prospect of reversing the ridge. After a last look round we retraced our steps to the col joining to the Meringue and then traversed down and right towards the top of the glacier.

  The wall was a series of steep ice fields broken by ice cliffs and we climbed down threading our way round the cliffs. In the late afternoon the weather as usual clouded in and it began to snow heavily. We were not in a safe position to fix a bivi as we usually did at 4 pm and climbed down cautiously into the whiteness. It was then that the second near-disaster happened. Hardly able to see our own feet we had climbed down to where the slope ended abruptly in an ice cliff. The lip of rotten ice crumbled away and I dropped off into the space. Tom, belayed on a doubtful belay, almost managed to arrest the fall, but it came free and he followed. Fortunately the basin at the foot of the cliff was full of snow and although we must have fallen 40 feet and 80 ft respectively, the snow drifts deadened the impact. We were both still in one piece. Tom coughed a little blood, presumably from a rupture of a small blood vessel in a lung, but this soon ceased. We pressed on determined to get off this steep face to the head of the glacier nightfall and safe bivi.

  Days 9-12 including - 11th, 12th, 13th, 14th October

  These days were spent descending the enormous icefall which fell like a roller coaster before us. The memories are of wallowing through waist deep snow which fell in hissing streams below our feet, abseiling off ice ballards, retracing our steps meandering to find a route through the enormous seracs. Gingerly inching our way over snow bridges, being burnt by the reflected sun during the day and frozen during the night.

  Our food had all been used up and we existed on scraps and numerous brews from each tea bags. We were very tired and weak. The joy of sitting down in the deep snow when belaying the leader was overshadowed by the massive effort needed to stand back up on our feet.

  During the 13th October we suffered from hallucinations and imagined we saw and talked to other people, but we knew all we had to do was to keep going and be as cautious as possible. As it was getting dark on the 14th we sighted the red dot of Camp I on the moraine below. So near, but one more bivi before we could descend the last few hours to arrive there at 10:30 am on 15th October. We were tired and hungry but pleased to have pulled off a climb which previously, because of the delays in Delhi, we had doubted we would be able to complete.


expid: MANA77301
peakid: MANA
year: 1977
route1: E Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jean Frehel
sponsor: French Expedition to Manaslu
approach: Buri Gandaki->Samagaon
bcdate: 1977-09-26
smtdate: 1977-10-23
termdate: 1977-10-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to bad weather and frostbite
campsites: BC(26/09,4750m),C1(30/09,5700m),C2(10/10,6500m),xxx(23/10,7600m)
accidents: Beghin & Leroy have frostbitten toes, Beghin on both feet, Leroy on right foot only
routememo:
  Leroy & Beghin - 29 Oct 77

  Ex-Samagaon by helicopter: Leroy and Beghin and Dr. 
  Others coming down; leave BC today - to KTM 7-8 days (to Manaslu Hotel).

  7600m Leroy and Beghin 23 Oct. Temperature -40 degrees at 1 pm when sun behind mountain and after we don't see. We have frostbitten feet: Beghin 2 feet, toes; Leroy fingers and right toes.

  23 Oct Leroy and Beghin came to 7400m in little tent.
  C2 at 6500m about 10 Oct, soft snow to waist and 80 cms

  Small expedition: 4 in beginning, but leader ill with breathing and Porret had sad news from family so only 2 climbers above C2. So 2 men in much snow and cold was impossible for 2 men.

  2 Sherpas but not good: 1 went to C2 only. Beghin and Leroy had to go down after to get loads dumped between C1 and C2.

  Beghin, Leroy and Porret in big powder avalanche that hit C1. Protected by little shoulder of snow so not swept away but 1 tent totally destroyed; 8 am 6 Oct on glacier 800m below found small pieces of tent and 1 rucksack.

  Beghin sad because of toes but we were not lucky with weather. Big expedition could do it, but we only 2 above C2 for 10 days and didn't know where others were.

  To hotel now but to France. 
  2 other members slight frostbitten fingers.


  Jha - 28 Oct 77

  24 Oct at 7300m, 2 members sustained frostbite and are
    1) Thierry Leroy, 27 
    2) Pierre Beghin, 26

  Brought to BC and both legs seriously frostbitten; helicopter for both men 29 to KTM from Samagaon for urgent medical treatment. Expedition not abandoned.

  Very heavy snowfall and avalanche 10 Oct and hampered progress.


  Jha, MFA - 6 Oct 77

  C1 5700m 30 Sept by Porret and Beghin and 2 Sherpas.
  Weather fine despite snowfall and all in good health.


  Frehel - 8 Sept 77

  1st French attempt. Same East Ridge as Japanese women tried in Spr 1974, but not via entire ridge. Will get onto ridge from north much further west than Japanese ladies who attempted entire length of very long ridge.

  BC opposite C1 of normal route. May have higher C1 at first on north side getting onto ridge but no easy place for camp there. Saw C2 on ridge. At most 1 more camp C2 on ridge at 6500m. Then climbers with specially light tents will go out, make route for several days and return; then in end all 4 together (Dr not in final assault).

  Not bothered about avalanches and technical problems, only bad weather and winds (not west, jet stream, from which protected by summit).

  Leave KTM Sun or Monday about 70 porters, 1 cook and 2 Sherpas
  2 Sherpas up to C1 or C2, not beyond C2.
  Hope 10 days march (but may take longer to BC).

  Need at least 3-4 weeks acclimatization. Summit between 15 Oct-1 Nov he hopes, but have supplies to end of Nov.

  Oxygen only at C2 for medical use
  Standard route = NE Face


  Teams highest fixed camp pitched at 6500m on ridge about 10 oct. Only one Sherpa proved to be good climber and even he often dumped loads below C2 instead of carrying all the way from base to C2.

  Leroy and Beghin, carrying small tent and what supplies they could manage, worked their way up ridge to 7600m on 23 Oct. They were struggling against waist-deep snow, in bitter cold when sun not shining directly on them. 7600m at 1:00 pm on 23 Oct was climax of expedition. Temperature was minus 40 degrees centrigrade. Leroy and Beghin spent that night at 7400m in their small tent and continued descent next day.


expid: PUMO77301
peakid: PUMO
year: 1977
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Ian George Rowe
sponsor: Canadian Expedition to Pumori
ascent1: 7th
countries: UK
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1977-09-12
smtdate: 1977-10-07
smttime: 0915
campsites: BC(12/09,5300m),C1(16/09,5800m),C2(27/09,6500m),C3.Biv(6800m),Smt(07/10)
routememo:
  Shank, Sutton & Homer - 11 Oct 77

  No change of routes. One bad snowfall at BC 2 ft 5th Oct but on ridge no problem because wind blew snow off and they were above storm.

  C1 - Shank and Sutton made route and site of C1. Homer sick then.
   
  Gallagher and Shank from C2 to top because thought not enough room in C3 for 4. Auger and Rowe from cave; Gallagher and Shank left C2 3:45 and caught up with others at summit. Others already there 15-20 minutes. Windy below top but on top almost calm and sky clear. Could see mountains tops; took pictures of each other with Alpine Club of Canada flag but left nothing there. Decent to C2 easy. Stayed at C2 that night but then down to BC. Clearing was real chore.

  C1->C2 took time because basically 4 men climbing and lot of sugary snow.

  Others 2 at Namche waiting for wive to arrive and trek in Solukhumbu in 2 parties. 3 back to Canada in next couple days and Shank to Kabul perhaps after 1 week.

  6 ideal number for Pumori because always have to expect [dropouts?]

  Sutton had bad knees and not acclimatized but with expedition went to 20,000 ft. Homer to Namche for 5 days to recover from non-acclimatization; up to 20,000 also.

  C3 really biv on way to top.

  Gallagher lost 15-20 lbs 
  No frostbite, no accidents
  Tim Auger also arrive KTM today.


  Cheney - 9 Oct 77

  Gallagher's wife Francie left KTM 1 or 2 Oct and may meet in BC or below and then to fly to KTM soon after. 

  Rowe's wife Sue, her father and Mrs Graham Tiso left KTM 5 Oct to Namche arrive there about 15th and then to BC if expedition not down - walking out to KTM or expedition 7-10 days in Khumbu and fly out. 


  Ian Rowe - 19 Aug 77

  South and SW Ridge on Pumori are same. Present expedition will climb via SW Ridge, but NE Face right for appealing for traverse.

  No Sherpas above BC; sirdar and cook at BC.

  Leave Wed and then on foot (including 80 porters); arrive BC 18 days later.
  C1 on col blow ridge ridge and C2 between col and summit - about 21,500 ft.
  Summit about 4 weeks after BC.
  Hope all to summit.
  No oxygen for climbing or sleeping.

  Object is to acquire Himalayas experience, but not training for Everest; not vested to Everest.


  Canadian Pumori Himalayan Expedition 1977, BC from Leader

  The Canadian Pumori Himalayan Expedition climbed their objective by the South Ridge, reaching the summit (23,446 ft) on the 7th October.

  The climb started from BC on 13 Sept. Technical difficulties were immediate and sustained throughout at an overall technical grade five. Monsoon snows added to the difficulties which consisted of high angle climbing on granite faces and ridges. In places snow had to be cleared from the rock to a depth of 3 or 4 ft. The route has been climbed by French and Japanese parties in recent years. The Canadian ascent is the first in the post-monsoon season and is also the first to have been carried out completely without Sherpa high altitude porters.

  The team consisted of names. The ascent itself was largely carried out by T. Auger, L. Gallagher, C. Shank and I. Rowe owing to the incapacity though illness of G. Homer and S. Sutton.

  Three camps were established during the ascent, C1 was set up at 19,100, Camp 2 at 21,350 and Camp 3 a snow cave at 22,300 ft. Ropes were fixed between each camp. The final summit approach was made by all few active members simultaneously and the top was reached at 09:15 on the 7th October.

  The descent from the mountain was carried out on the 8th and the 9th Sept from C2 with each members carrying heavy loads down the fixed ropes to Camp 1 where extra assistance from the other members proved most welcome.


  Letter form Ian Rowe, Pheriche - 10 Sept 1977

  Things are going very well and everybody is acclimatizing appropriately. The process had been helped by enforced delay at Ghat, above Lukla, due to an apparently exceptional flash flood in the Dudh Kosi.

  The flood is supposed to be a result of avalanche or landslide at higher elevation. We have nothing definite. At any rate 5 bridges below Namche, and some on the Imja Khola above Namche, are down. We crossed to Ghat by rope bridge on the 5th Sept, and made Namche using the West side only, arriving on the 7th Sept.


expid: ANN177301
peakid: ANN1
year: 1977
route1: N Face (Dutch Rib)
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Alexander Verrijn Stuart
sponsor: Dutch Annapurna Expediition 1977
ascent1: 4th
approach: Pokhara->Kali Gandaki->Mristi Khola
bcdate: 1977-09-06
smtdate: 1977-10-13
smttime: 1415
termdate: 1977-10-16
campsites:
  BC(06/09,4400m),C1(09/09,5100m),C2(13/09,5800m),C3A(25/09,6300m),C3B(30/09,6500m),C4(10/10,6850m),C5(11/10,7350m),Smt(13/10)

routememo:
  Stuart - 26 Oct 77
  Press conference

  1st Dutch high climbing in 50's with great help from French especially Terray.

  Sickle area extremely dangerous because of avalanches. Went up one of ribs as knife-edge ridge.

  30th Sept very serious snowstorm halted most progress and nothing much resumed till 10 Oct.

  Last few days: 6 people in C4 who took equipment to C5 and left Mingma and Mathieu Van Rijswick with all equipment to go to summit on 12 Oct; reached 200m below summit; back to C5; Mathieu strong and joined 2nd team of Sonam and Hopster.

  13th 3 set out and Hopster down because of oxygen equipment problems while Mathieu and Sonam to top at 14:15 hours.

  Of members oldest 2 to C3, all to C4 or C5 or top.

  Mathieu on top: afternoon bright weather but summit gale and little snow and poor visibility to south. When reached top tired and happy; on top 1/2 hour, made movie film. Left C5 8:00 am. On mixed snow and rock. Mathieu used oxygen from 7600m and Sonam from dump at 7850m.


  Stuart - 25 Oct 77

  Arrived KTM last night; all well.

  Mathieu and Mingma were 1st summit team - started late and started use of oxygen late.

  2nd team: Mingma tired out. Mathieu, Sonam and Hopster. Hopster went up one hour and oxygen failed and went down for new apparatus which was not in C5 so he was there for summiters to help them on their return. 

  Exhausted for a 3rd assault; would have needed 1 more week to mount it; team too tired for this quickly. Also weather unsettled.

  Very little acclimatization trouble; same frostnip including Hopster.

  Avalanching all night but never hit by them becasue of route chosen.

  Leave 28 Oct together to Delhi on RNAC.


  Stuart - 23 Aug 77

  Variation of route depending state of crevasses, etc. Want to try ice pillars end of cycle as recommended by Henry Day, but time pressed; 10 weeks only for same members.

  75th Jubilee of Alpine Club. 1st 8000m attempted by Club or all Dutch expedition.

  5 high camps
  Summit should be 28th day after arrive BC
  11 days to base from Pokhara
  1 sirdar and 5 HA Sherpas, Mingma Tenzing sirdar
  3 local porters to C2
  To Pokhara Friday 26th by road, Stuart hopes.

  BC slightly lower than British Army BC probably. Mingma Tenzing was there a month ago and recommends lower site. BC will be about due east of Thulobugin on Harka Gurung's map.


  Stuart - 24 Aug 77

  C5 7400m; oxygen for climbing from here to top and for sleeping and medicine.
  About 150 porters to BC.

  All members Dutch citizens.


  Letter from Xander Verrijn-Stuart

  After my previous report it looked as if rapid progress would be possible, but a heavy snowstorm prevented exploitation of the break through.

  From the 10th October however a series of successes were booked: Camp 4 at 6850m was established on that day, Camp 5 at 7350m the following day and the first summit attempt was made on the subsequent day. A point was reached at about 200 meters below the summit, when time ran out and the party was forced back to Camp, The next day Matieu van Rijswick and Sherpa Sonam resumed the attack and the summit at 14.15 hours. Weather was reasonable but visability poor.

  All camps above C2 were evacuated on the 14th October and the expedition expects to leave BC on the 16th.


  Letter from Expedition Leader - BC 27 Sept 77

  After Camp 2 had been established on 14th Sept and a few reconnaissance trips had been made, it looked as if a decision regarding the route  might be taken within a short time; none of the options considered, however turned out to be sufficiently safe from avalanches or feasible from a technical point of view; hence reconnaissance continued for a week. Only on 23rd Sept the final choice was made: to follow a characteristic rib, which rises steeply from the glacier plateau above C2 to the serac field left of the Sickle.

  On 24th and 25th fixed rope was put up to about the mid-point of the rib, which is covered by a layer of loose powder snow, varying in thickness between two and five feet; making a way was very heavy but on that second day Camp 3 was established and first occupied by Jan van Banning and Sardar Mingma Tenzing, at an altitude of about 6300m.

  On 26th Sept the end of the rib was reached, thus opening the way to the gentler top slopes; although the distance yet to be covered are considerable, there appears to be a reasonable chance of success.


  Dutch Annapurna I Expedition
  Letter from Alexander Verrijn-Stuart

  From the day BC was established (6th Sept) weather conditions steadily worsened, but regular progress was made in establishing and building up C1.

  Camp I was reached on 8th Sept and established the next day by Hopster, Jansen, Dijk, Bonhomme and Sherpa Ang Pasang.

  C2 was reached on 13th Sept after a number of reconnaisance trips, which were troubled by an almost total lack of visibility, and on one day by a fallen serac. The camp was established on the 13th by Hopster, Dijk and Bonhomme in a place we consider very safe from avalanches, after Jansen, Van Banning and Van Rijswick had viewed possible higher positions, at an altitude of approx 5800m.

  On 15th Sept the weather suddenly turned for the better and under almost perfect conditions the possible approach to the summit plateau was reconnoitered. Two routes are considered:

  - One of the ribs to the northwest (left) of the Sickle.
  - Bypassing the Sickle gully on the right, going up to about 6700m
    and then cutting across to the left, i.e., the Owens-Day route.


expid: ANNS76301
peakid: ANNS
year: 1976
route1: E Face
nation: UK
leaders: Peter Cooper
sponsor: Hong Kong Mountaineering Expedition to Annapurna South Peak
ascent1: 3rd
countries: India, Nepal
approach: Pokhara->Modi Khola->Annapurna Sanctuary (BC)
bcdate: 1976-09-27
smtdate: 1976-11-03
smttime: 1300
termdate: 1976-11-06
campsites:
  BC(27/09,4270m),C1(06/10,4665m),C2(11/10,5455m),C3(18/10,5640m),C4(23/10),C5(31/10,6555m),Biv(02/11,6860m),Smt(03/11)

routememo:
  Cooper - 15 Nov 76

  Virtually same as 1964 Japanese route via East Face; did not shift route.

  No others attempt for summit.

  Summit team bived 2 and 3 Nov; when returned to C5, it was blown away.


  Lohani, MFA - 10 Nov 76

  Summit 3 Nov 13:00 by Capt Peter Cooper, Cph Rinchi Wangdi Lepcha and Major Duncan Briggs.


expid: MANA76301
peakid: MANA
year: 1976
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Nobuyoshi Tamura, Mohammed Khakbiz
sponsor: Iran-Japan Mt. Manaslu Joint Expedition 1976
ascent1: 8th
countries: Iran, W Germany
bcdate: 1976-09-06
smtdate: 1976-10-12
smttime: 1543
campsites:
  BC(06/09,3850m),C1(09/09,4920m),C2(18/09,5700m),C3(03/10,6200m),C4(08/10,7150m),C5(11/10,7650m),Smt(12/10)

routememo:
  Misha Saleki - 24 Feb 79

  Saleki does not believe that a Persian reached Manaslu's summit in 1976. He has seen summit photos and none shows Persian with anyone else. Even Japanese photo has him alone and is black and white and blurred whereas Japanese had color of others.


  Tamura - 2 Nov 76

  C2-C3 most difficult because in post-monsoon many crevasses which opened wider; 1 crevasse has 6 ladders joined. Very dangerous at end. Route making very hard work.

  Next most difficult C4 to C5: plateau very strong wind and cold and cold and final ascent time.
   
  12 Oct, left C5 6:30 am but inside oxygen mask frozen and returned to camp. Left C5 8:30 am and reached top 3:43 pm by Assadi, Kageyama and Pasang. Did not find body on plateau. Much snow in post-monsoon. 

  Route same as Japanese women = East Face.

  I hoped put 3 teams 4 men each but some not well acclimatized, some didn't like food other meals brought (2 members lost 10 kg).

  No 2nd summit attempt as no others in summit condition.

  Kageyama little frostbite his toes but already heeled; Assadi little finger and also healed. All members in KTM.


  MB Pandey, MFA - 13 Oct 76

  Oct 11 C5 7650m
  Oct 12 summit by 
    Jun Kageyama, Japan, 47 years 
    Mohammad Jafar Assadi, 45 years 
    Pasang Sherpa, Nepal


  General Khakbis - 15 Aug 76 (by telephone)

  Expedition leave KTM tomorrow 10:00 am by bus and 7 trucks to Trisuli Bazar; after 2 days Trisuli Bazar set out for Sama with 500 porters. This expedition Iranians part is part of Iranians Mtn Federation's celebration of 50th anniversary of Pohlavi monarchy. 20 in groups to 5 mountains of which Manaslu is highest. Carrying special arms and flags for summit (other groups already climbed Fuji and Rosa on Swiss-Italy border).


  Tamura - 8 Aug 76

  Same route as Japanese women's success route on East Face and slightly different from 1956. If now successful will be 1st post-moonsoon success on Manaslu.

  Chose Manaslu as 8000m peak, but not so difficult and this Iranian Mtn federation first time in Nepal Himalaya; maybe Iranians come to Everest: this is test.

  Iran-Japan friendship 5 years old. Tamura climbed in Turkey and Iran with Iranian and Iran MT Federation invited Japanese. Pres IMF visited Japan and spoke of hope of joint expedition which then worked out.

  Advance party 2 Japanese and 2 Iranians arrive 2 weeks before main party on 6 Aug; 3 more to come; total 20.

  Leave 15 Aug for Trisuli Bazar by truck and caravan of 17-20 days to BC near Sama village at 4350m.

  C5 highest camp at about 7650m (about same as Japanese ladies, he thinks) 
  Very dangerous and difficult between C2 and C3, avalanche danger.
  Summit about Oct 1-10 when big white birds migrate.

  Come south from Tibet.
  One month for climbing 
  21 HA Sherpas and 2 cooks, 4 kitchen boys and 2 mailrunners
  Oxygen for climbing from 7000m (C4).
  Hope put total 10 men on top in 3 parties.
  Iranians may be better acclimatized because live and climb at higher altitude.


expid: PUTH76301
peakid: PUTH
year: 1976
route1: W Ridge from S
nation: Japan
leaders: Kenichi Shindo
sponsor: Putha Hiunchuli W Ridge Expedition (Japan Rock Climbing Society)
bcdate: 1976-09-14
smtdate: 1976-10-13
termnote: Abandoned at 6614m due to route difficulty along W Ridge of Putha Hiunchuli
othersmts: Climbed unnamed 6614m peak via SW Ridge [not Dogari Himal]
campsites: BC(14/09,4500m),C1A(24/09,5200m),C1B(28/09,5100m),C2(04/10,5800m),C3(12/10,6500m),xxx(13/10,6614m)
routememo:
  Climbing abandoned 15 Oct.

  Shindo - 21 Nov 76

  3 weeks searching for route. Trying 1st from South Ridge of Peak 6614m, but 200m rock face. 

  Then tried SW Ridge and put 3 camps along this route with C2 and C3 on this ridge. From there to 6614m summit and down ridge and up Putha Hiunchuli W Ridge.

  Kobayashi and Pemba Tsering reached summit of 6614m peak 13 Oct, but then ridge down difficult: 13 Oct Kobayashi and Pemba Tsering could not find route on this steep ridge and returned to C3.

  2 days later Kobayashi and Pemba Tsering went north side of 6614m peak 500m below summit and traversed snow slope, searching for route for few days but not found. Snow slope big avalanches and hidden crevasses: too dangerous and not enough food to try long route around 6614m to Putha Hiunchuli summit = 10 days more, so had to decide all go down on 15 Oct.

  Like Alps: steep route = 3-4 more members and climbing Sherpas also.


  MB Pandey, MFA - 31 Oct 76

  C3 established then abandoned; could not find good route 13 Oct.


  MFA - 27 Sept 76

  29 Badra = 14 Sept 12:30 
  4500m BC Putha Hiunchuli


  Shindo - 22 Aug 76

  New route definite via point 6614m (Pt 21,699 ft).
   
  Leave KTM 26 Aug by road to Pokhara; leave Pokhara 28 or 29 Aug; caravan to BC 15-18 days. Climbing 40 days so summit mid-Oct.

  Doctor will go from Pokhara with expedition, but probably not all the way to BC; he has no time.


  Kobayashi & Mizukawa (via Otsu) - 15 Aug 76

  17th climbing leader, etc arrive.

  Only 2 here now. Route via South Ridge of point 21,699 (6614m) which is unnamed ([incorrectly] given name Dogari Peak) perhaps to summit of point 21,699 anyway; traverse its southeast side to its East Ridge which is West Ridge of Putha Hiunchuli or direct.

  Putha Hiunchuli from SW Face to last bit (highest bit) of SW Ridge. This last bit only same part of route SW Ridge route of other expeditions

  BC - 4000m in Dogari Khola
  C1 - 4700m in Khola also
  C2 - 5500m on Peak 21,699
  C3 - 6300m height on this peak
  C4 - 6500m on ridge between Peak 21,699 and Putha Hiunchuli

  or if take more direct route then plan camps from C2; maybe 2 camps more, maybe 1 and biv.

  4 Sherpas including and 1 cook
  Leave KTM 23 Aug, leave Pokhara 26 Aug, arrive BC 8 Sept, on summit 5 Oct
  No climbing with oxygen


expid: KJRS76301
peakid: KJRS
year: 1976
route1: S Spur-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Richard John Isherwood
sponsor: Hong Kong Kanjiroba Expedition 1976
ascent1: 4th
countries: Hong Kong
approach: Jumla->Hurikot->Jagdula Khola
bcdate: 1976-10-04
smtdate: 1976-10-16
campsites: TempBC(04/10,3660m),BC(10/10,4050m),C1(13/10,5275m),C2(14/10,5880m),C3(15/10,6490m),Smt(16/10)
routememo:
  Holdroyd - 2 Nov 76

  Climbed Main Peak; precipice on other side that didn't want to tackle to do North Peak.

  Not great difficulty via SE Ridge. Very good weather.

  Holdroyd only up to 18,000 ft; he and Giddy had acclimatization problems.

  BC close to Japanese BC - 12,000 ft
  C1 - 17,300 ft
  C2 - 19,300 ft
  C3 - 21,300 ft


  Lohani, MFA - 2 Nov 76

  Summited Kanjiroba 16 Oct afternoon by 2 members: Isherwood and Pemba Lama.


  Isherwood - 15 Sept 76

  Reach pre-BC 12 days from Surkhet; maybe couple of weeks to real BC up gorge. 2-3 weeks climbing. 3 camps above BC probably.


expid: DHA176301
peakid: DHA1
year: 1976
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Naomi Uemura
sponsor: Expedition rumored
countries: USA
termnote: Attempt and success rumored
accidents: 2 members killed in icefall [rumored]
routememo:
  Naomi Uemura - 20 Jan 80

  Uemura has never made an attempt to climb Dhaulagiri I. Did a recce around Dhaulagiri for Meiji Univ in 1974, but his last high-altitude climbing on any peak in Himalayas was 1971 Everest.


  Letter April 12, 1977
  From Ad Carter to E. Hawley

  I have not heard directly from you but I have from both Mike Cheney and Al Read. The mystery expedition seems not to have been led by Naomi Uemura as the enclosed Xerox of a letter from Ichiro Yoshizawa would indicate.

  I cannot believe that the expedition actually took place. Andy Harvard, Elliott Fisher and I had David Pendergast to dinner a couple of weeks ago and questioned him on it. He said that he had been on a trek in the region, but definitely not on the mountain and not on a joint-Japanese-American venture. He gave all of us the impression that he is shooting straight and not hiding anything. He stated quite flatly that he did not take part in any such expedition. He is the son of a good friend of ours and I cannot imagine that he is lying. As for reported death, there were three Americans and Mexicans killed on Dunagari in Garhwal. I wonder if that is not what it amounts to.

  PS: Andy Harvard was here for supper last night. He does not see how this expedition could have taken place.


  Makalu expedition member, Peter Quesada - 16 March 77

  Pendergast met Uemura on McKinley couple years ago. Uemura in charge: 6 Japanese and 2 Americans including Pendergast. Japanese founded it.

  Left KTM 10 Oct and Pendergast left afterwards with 2 air drops, 1 on French Pass. Went from air drop to air drop to top via NE Ridge. Result was 2 people killed in icefall and 4 reached top including Pendergast. Not only 3 weeks this Pendergast told Quesada in USA in Dec-Jan. Didn't discuss authorization (didn't know unauthorized, but wouldn't concern him).

  Uemura had lot of equipment in KTM from previous visits. Members stayed in different hotels in KTM.


  25 Jan 77

  Climber Pritchard and Naomi Uemura climbed Dhaulagiri I Oct 1976, Adams Carter wrote Mike Cheney, but route not mentioned. Cheney gathers expedition was mainly Japanese.

  Pritchard was member of Japanese expedition to Putha Hiunchuli Autumn 1972.


expid: MAK276301
peakid: MAK2
year: 1976
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Shuji Yasukawa
sponsor: Seppyo Alpine Club
ascent1: 2nd
approach: Dharan->Shipton La->Upper Barun Glacier (BC)
bcdate: 1976-09-03
smtdate: 1976-10-13
smttime: 1500
campsites: BC(03/09,5040m),C1(11/09,5400m),C2(17/09,5920m),C3(26/09,6500m),C4(10/10,7200m),Smt(13/10)
routememo:
  Yasukawa - 30 Oct 76

  C4 made by Mamoru Ohkoba and Lhakpa Norbu 10 Oct. Difficult rock slabs about 200m at 7400m = most difficult part of climb

  1st summit attempt 12 Oct by Minoru Kaneko and Hideki Yoshioka from C4, but difficult slabs slowed them and had no time to reach top; returned to C4 after reaching 7400m and having put in 200m fixed rope for 2nd team next day's success.

  Other attempts prevented by 1) food exhausted 2) very cold, strong wind.

  Kaneko and Nara slight frostbitten toes. Others coming to KTM within a week.


  Yasukawa - 8 Aug 76

  Route is NW Ridge route same as Japanese expedition 1972 spring [reached 7000m].

  No oxygen (except for medical use)
  4 HA Sherpas and 1 cook, 1 kitchen boy and 1 mailrunner
  2 members now in Kathmandu (arrive 5 Aug) and 5 others come 10 Aug 

  Leave KTM about 17 Aug; by bus to Biratnagar if possible, otherwise by plane to Biratnagar; caravan from Dharan to BC 3 weeks.

  C5 about 7200m.

  C3 to C4 ice wall but not so difficult; difficult part is ridge which "I think is knife ridge."
  1 month climbing up: summit about middle October: 2 or 4 men, 1 or 2 teams.


expid: EVER76301
peakid: EVER
year: 1976
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Phillip R. Trimble
sponsor: American Bicentennial Everest Expedition
ascent1: 22nd
countries: Netherlands
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1976-08-26
smtdate: 1976-10-08
smttime: 1614
termdate: 1976-10-13
campsites:
  BC(26/08),C1(02/09,5900m),C2(08/09,6480m),C3(10/09,7000m),C4(25/09,7470m),C5(01/10,7985m),C6(07/10,8380m),Smt(08/10)

routememo:
  Trimble & Cormack - 16 Oct 76

  Cormack lost 30 lbs, wispy beard - from Syangboche. Chandler in Khumbu for couple more days, in Namche on expedition business.

  Results of expedition speak for themselves. Great success for us. Very pleased we got record break from weather enabled us to get some people on top and get them back without any accidents.

  Cormack can easily imagine tripod being buried. Was 6 feet tall when Cormack saw it. There were tattered remnants of flags but impossible to identify.

  Trimble got through icefall quicker than Bonington team, then stopped by 6 days of blizzards.

  Can Everest be conquered without oxygen; "not by me" said Cormack, would make it very difficult.

  Morgan, Emmett, Pilafian, Hoover and 2 Summiters to South Col and 3 more reached Geneva Spur (same altitude) = 2nd summit team

  Members did establish C4 and C5.

  Ang Phurba's dropping out probably did slow summiters down because 3rd strong man would have been helpful in deep snow up to South Summit. 

  Cut down summit teams because not enough oxygen on C5 and 2 who were expected be in 1st team came down with diarrhea. So picked strongest of 2 teams who were well. 

  Terribly uncomfortable 1st night in C6 with 3 men in 2-man tent. On descent so tired fell asleep on sleeping bag. Summit is narrow ridge only few feet wide and 20-30 feet long.

  Wind too strong to stand and move at same time going up. How felt on top 4 or 5 seconds of awestruck that did made it to top and then I wanted to get away from there.

  2nd attempt dropped:

  Trimble weather didn't permit it: very high winds making it virtually impossible to cross South Col. Chances there'd be a break in weather long enough to gear up very slim. All feeling worn down.

  Arlene Blum made a carry to C4; Barb Roach only to C2.

  Big help was more pressure in oxygen bottles than any one has had before.

  No hash on expedition; totally denied by Trimble.

  On way to South Summit boring: kicking steps in deep snow; after top thought of survival. 

  "A true solo attempt impossible" - Trimble. 

  No skiing.


  Roberts - 13 Oct 76

  Only few minutes on top. Weather bad, no view at all, snowing and no visability. Concentrated on safety of descent and very tired.

  Just didn't notice it.


  12 Oct 76

  Talked to Trimble and Hoover

  All safe at BC. Last Sherpas came down this 8:30 am. Feel extremely lucky with Icefall. 5 days ago massive collapse near 1970 Japanese ski accident and no one in vicinity. Ladders twisted and crumpled and pulled apart.

  Leave BC tomorrow am and fly out from Lukla 17th. All in good health. Hoover sounded good on radio this am and 2 summiters having good breakfast. He had simply been exhausted.

  Trimble and Hoover to Obea: Summit day: late start because problems - winds not too bad at C6 (Hoover thinks winds that day never below 80mph ). An hour or so later Ang Phurba oxygen regulator iced over and could not be fixed. Some time spent on this: thought then they were so late there was no point in going on up, but decided to go on climbing up until 4 pm. At 4 pm they were 50 ft below summit. 

  By time on final summit ridge above Hillary Step which were greatly helped getting up by a previous expedition's fixed rope. Did not stop for lunch but stopped to help Sherpa with half empty oxygen cylinder each and this took an hour over and below South Summit. They were cold. Chandler's oxygen also giving trouble and lasted another half hour; reached South Summit 12:45 pm.

  2:30 started up again by time on final sumit ridge winds too bad. They could hardly stand up;  Cormack guessed wind over 100 mph. Would talk few steps then crouch.

  At 4 pm were 50 ft from top and went on and soon saw Chinese tripod and remnants of other people's flags.

  Got to top at 4:14 pm and stayed there 30 mins; winds still bad. Cormack didn't go to trouble to get small US flag at bottom his pack and Chandler did take out green scarf and tied it to tripod. Scarf was blessed by a lama probably at Thyangboche.

  Started down; only thing made it possible to move as quickly as possible was will to get out of there. Reached C6 at 7:30 pm in moonlight and had rest in C6 next am without oxygen. Left C6 to C5 and took long time because of exhaustion and lack of oxygen, falling often, stumbling with Chandler, in end crawling part way. Oxygen at C5 but Hoover pretty weak but Pema of Thami pillar of strength.

  No 2nd assault: too much wind and impossibility of restocking C5 and C6 under such conditions. Go home fever, would not tolerate within. Didn't want to tempt fate.


  Obea, USIS - 11 Oct 76 am

  Try to get everyone to BC today and leave 13th or 14th for Lukla via Namche with arrival KTM 17th.

  No 2nd attempt because winds worse on Col and Sherpas not keen on going up and Trimble as leader further felt attempts not worth risks to Sherpas and members. Also Hoover pretty badly battered from 4 days on Col: barely strong enough to make it down. Came down with help to C2 last night. No one last night above C2.

  Nearly everyone was in C2 for decision to stop. 2nd team probably did not reach C5.

  "Fast and sassy" says Dr Crouch of 1st team who yesterday was at C2.
  1st team's late start over Ang Phurba's oxygen regulator; winds slowed ascent.
  Trimble: pride and relief.


  MB Pandey, MFA - 10 Oct 76

  Decided not to make further attempt. All in C2 now except Hoover in C4 and all in Base Camp 1 tomorrow. Hoover seems sick.


  MB Pandey, MFA - 9 Oct 76

  LO: 2 summiters members seen this man coming down from C6 by those in C5. This first news of them since yesterday afternoon and reached C5 13:30 today.

  Spent last night at C6. Yesterday 12:45 pm reached South Summit and took lunch and at 2:00 crossed Hillary Step and 16:15 hours reached top and stayed 30 minutes. Nepal and US flags with Ang Phurba, so not to top.

  16:45 started descent and reached C6. Their health is good and are going down. 2nd summit team not decided.


  Kent Obea, USIS - 9 Oct 76

  State of jubilation in all camps. Crouch from BC all terribly relieved to move their summiters back (safely) and obviously very proud of their accomplishment. Mike Hoover and Pema - supporting summiters with Roach, Ridgeway, Bruyntjes up to meet them. Assess if summiters needed help; if not, 2nd team on up to C5 if winds not to bad.

  Winds up to 100 mph or more at all day today on Col; that's why they were slow today. Hoover said you could hardly stand on Col today. Hoover said summiters they in fine shape, no signs of frostbite. Apparently heavy winds yesterday slowed them. Try to get to C2 today, if not at least to C4.

  Clear and windy on summit. Second summit attempt 12th or 13th if at all and 3rd attempt not even being contemplated. Highest Blum ever reached was C3 and Barb Roach C2,

  Emmett and Morgan left BC for KTM today and could reach KTM Monday from Syangboche.


  Obea, USIS - 8 Oct 76

  Yesterday full moon.

  Emmett, Morgan, B Roach (BC people) on Pumori ridge watching climbers. Until clouds come on them, watchers could watch 2 figures silouetted on ridge beyond Hillary Step and an hour after that, moving slowly and having stopped 20-30 minutes at Step last seen (3:30 pm) makes them about 200 vertical feet below summit and one assumes they were going on up (have special NASA oxygen tank which gives 2 times oxygen of others and full moon so could come down in moon light).

  No walkie-talkie in C6. Phurba's mask failed.


  Obea, USIS - 8 Oct 76

  Ang Phurba Sherpa, Khumjung, 27 years old, climbing sirdar this expedition
  2 times to 27,000 ft on face 1972 and 1975 
  No 2 Sherpa after Pertemba for summit on 1975 face
  1971 International: to C5 at 26,000 ft


  MB Pandey, MFA - 8 Oct 76

  Shortly after leaving C6 oxygen set of Ang Phurba failed and he had to stop climbing and returned to C4. C & C continued to climb at about 12:45 reached South Summit and approx 14:30 hours seen crossing Hillary Step and shortly thereafter cloud obscured vision of people watching below.


  Obea, USIS - 8 Oct 76

  Talked to Emmett this am. Summit team left C6 7:30 am today, about an hour a bit later than expected: Chandler, Cormack and Ang Phurba Sherpa.

  Today weather lovely. Best day in terms of dainty yesterday, but "fairly heavy winds" on South Col Hoover reported to BC, so BC a little bit worried about wind. Morgan yesterday we said getting noticably colder: C2, 15 to 25 degree F low night time. Hoover estimated 50 mph winds on Col yesterday.

  2nd team did not go to C5 today but are still in C4 because Sherpas coming down and new Sherpa team up so 2nd team's summit bid delayed 1 or 2 days (Wright is not with 2nd team). Hoover did not go to C6 because not enough oxygen for him to climb higher. 


  Pandey, MFA - 7 Oct 76

  Today 15:00 hours 2 members (Chandler and Cormack) and 1 Sherpa (Ang Phurba) established SE Ridge 27,500 ft C6 and last camp. Tomorrow 3 will try summit.

  2nd group summit 10 Oct Gerry Roach, Ridgeway, Bruyntjes now in C4.


  Kent Obea, USIS - 7 Oct 76

  Today will try to make C6 as higher as possible on SE Ridge. Sherpas go in support and then return to Col.

  Weather this am good weather = clear, no wind.
  Today the first time any climbing above Col

  Today's summit party may or may not include Hoover. Had not gotten as much stocks on Col as had hoped so may not be enough oxygen and food for Hoover.

  2nd summit team more certain G. Roach, Ridgeway and Bruyntjes and perhaps Wright.
   
  Leave 2 to 4 today, 4 to 5 tomorrow.

  3rd assault very questionable thing, not even staffed. Very strong feeling they can't push their luck too far with weather. Thyangboche rimpoche says bad weather after 1st week Oct. Also urged to get off mountain before someone gets killed. 

  Emmett and Morgan to BC today. Emmett may come to KTM early for expedition business.


  Pandey, MFA - 6 Oct 76

  Today, 15:30 hrs
  3 members: Chandler, Cormack, Hoover
  9 Sherpas including Ang Phurba
  C5 Everest 26,200 ft South Col


  Kent Obea, USIS - 6 Oct 76

  Yesterday evening news: No new camps: 5 camps not to be established until summit teams on way up. Supply movements have been going up the mountain [or to C4 and above] on schedule. Hoping establish C5 from C4 today by 1st summit team:
    Chandler, Cormack, Ang Phurba
    Hoover to film as high he can
  Went from C2 to C4 yesterday.

  Next summit team hoping to go up 2 days later, probably 
    G. Roach, Bruyntjes, Ridgeway

  Blum is in C2. Might be in 3rd summit team if one takes place; debilated by dysentery. When would go up not decided. No definite plans for 2nd team smaller teams because of who's strong and stocks supplies.

  Have had good weather generally on the mountain sunny and relatively little wind.

  Crouch and Morgan in C2 (as is everyone except B. Roach and Ang Phurba, who where in BC and White who left expedition).

  Today apparently tired themselves out at C4 and on making route to C5.

  C6 somewhere on SE Ridge "they feel pretty good about "their chances of success, Obea gathers. 


  Obea, USIS - 1 Oct 76

  Virtually got route to C6. Camp itself not yet up - maybe today or tomorrow. Shepras have been almost to Col. Everybody down at BC except 2 at C2 (Trimble and Reinhard) and 3 in C4 (Crouch, Morgan and Pilafian). Those in C4 probably will go to C5 and then to BC. Chandler and Ridgeway on BC probably will do carries to C2 and return to BC today or tomorrow.

  New summit dates 9th and 11th Oct, but these still subject to change as is membership of summit teams

  Blum not yet fully recovered from dysentery. B Roach did not reacclimatize in time to feel well at C2 and is not likely ever to get higher than C2.

  Wright had flu and now well; Chandler, Gerard Roach and Ridgeway very strong. 


  Obea, USIS - 29 Sept 76

  Yesterday evening Dan Emmett said: yesterday good weather and progress: clear most of day. Ang Phurba and Sherpa team continued make route progress toward C5.

  Crouch and Morgan went to C4 from C2 reopening route which had been partially closed by snow on 27th. Staying in C4 and will stay there 2 or 3 more days making route. Hope to establish C5 today or tomorrow.

  In C2 Trimble, yesterday Reinhard, Pilafian, 2 Roaches.

  2 Roaches to BC today; Trimble, Reinhard and Pilafian stay at C2 and all others at BC yesterday. Summit days now 8 & 10 Oct because of 1 day bad weather on 27 Sept.


  Pandey, MFA - 29 Sept 76

  C5 by tomorrow. Windy but not too strong.
  Crouch and Morgan are helping make route to C5 and will stay at C4 not to BC.


  Kent Obea, USIS - 27 Sept 76

  Another snowstorm today impeded movement. No effort to make route C5 today but yesterday pushed a goal way up ("good progress") by Sherpas headed by Ang Phurba, head of climbing Sherpas, who is turning in an incredible performance.

  All reach BC tomorrow or 29th except Trimble and Reinhard
  Blum till slightly weak and Chandler arrived yesterday BC
  Ridgeway and Bruyntjes today at BC, Cormack earlier at BC 
  3 CBC in BC: Hoover, White and Smokler and AP
  (Smokler will probably leave expedition in next few days; Hoover plans to go up soon)
  In C1 Emmett and Wright (would have gone today to BC if weather better)
  Last of route to C4 was made by members but move actually in C4.


  JOM Roberts - 27 Sept 76

  Ang Phurba very strong on Bonington expedition. Would have gone to summit with them. Katsering good chap, others maybe young.

  Can't at this changeable time of year strange letting Sherpas take over also very strange. In 1963 allowed escorted Sherpas on col after route made, very doubtful preposition indeed.

  Also members should get acclimatization in higher camps.


  MB Pandey, MFA - 27 Sept 76

  Team decided Sherpas alone will establish C5 South Col 26,200 ft. Leader selected 2 groups to attempt summit. If all well including weather, 7 & 9 Oct:

  1) Gerard Roach
     Dee Crouch
     Dan Emmett
     Bob Cormack
     Ang Phurba Sherpa

  2) Chris Chandler
     Rick Ridgeway
     Frank Morgan
     Arlene Blum
     Hans Bruyntjes

  Trimble is alternative for either team. All will come to BC today for rest except Trimble and Reinhard who stay at C2.

  Since 18:00 hours yesterday light snowfall until 8 radio contact.
  No Americans reached C4.


  MB Pandey, MFA - 26 Sept 76

  Yesterday 12 noon 5 HA Sherpas established C4 at 24,500 ft. Not single member reached C4 yesterday.
    Ang Phurba
    Pasang Norbu
    Ang Mingma
    Katsering 
    Lhakpa Gyalzen
  and these 5 Sherpas today making on route to C5. Today fine clear weather.
  C4 delayed by 1-2 days strong winds preceding days.


  Obea, USIS - 22 Sept 76

  Talked yesterday 4:00 pm. Yesterday nicest day they have had yet - no snow.

  Both White and Blum much better. White at BC. Blum at C2 and went to C3 yesterday on recce with Trimble and Bruyntjes and all returned to C2. She Ok. Now in C3 and working on route to C4 are Cormack, Ridgeway and Chandler and Reinhard.

  BC yesterday 2 Roaches (leaving up today), Crouch, White, A.P. (Ang Phurba), Emmett and Morgan;  all planned go up today except White and A.P.

  Wright and Pilafian in C2 with Trimble, Blum and Bruyntjes.
  Hoped make C4 today or tomorrow.
  Hoover not yet at BC, expected last night.


  MB Pandey, MFA - 21 Sept 76
  (From LO this am.)

  White improving, Blum coming to BC today.
  Cloudy and scattered snow showers.


  Obea, USIS - 20 Sept 76

  "Peter" White has been having trouble acclimatizing ever since adapted; about Blum Obea doesn't know about [Obea talked yesterday afternoon to BC to Emmett].

  Saturday was rest day. Sunday supplies up mountain.

  C3 reopened; old C3 totally knocked down by snowstorms and new tents erected at same site at 23,000 ft by 4 members Bruyntjes, Chandler, Ridgeway and Reinhard and these 4 were yesterday working on Lhotse Face and presumably they will stay out in front for several days towards C4 site while others and Sherpas bringing up supplies to C2 and C3. Trimble in C2 and well.

  Hoover went to Namche for R & R.

  Storm delayed expedition by 1 week.


  Pandey, MFA - 20 Sept 76

  Sick:
    Arlene Blum, C2 
    Peter White, C1
  Efforts being made to bring them to BC

  Trying to make route towards Lhotse Face


  Kent Obea, USIS - 17 Sept 76

  Situation improved. Bad weather began to clear up yesterday. Move: C1 to C2 and C2 to C1 and today to BC.
   
  In C2 yesterday, now in BC:
    Cormack
    Reinhard
    Morgan
    Emmett
    G. Roach
    Crouch
    Wright

  C1 to C2 yesterday: 
    Bruyntjes
    Blum
    Chandler
    Ridgeway

  Trimble today in C1, hopes to go to C2 tomorrow.
  In past 2 days 23 porter loads from BC to C2. 

  Day before yesterday really bad day: large avalanche between C1 and C2; several feet of snow; whiteout - no movement.

  Hoover said 5 feet snow during entire period.
  B Roach reached BC, feels fine and she and husband hope go to C2 next day or so.
   
  Avalanches constantly
  Nobody to C2 today; those in C2 hope to go to C3 tomorrow.


  Kent Obea, USIS - 14 Sept 76

  US embassy source:
  After C3 3 days snow ground progress to halt
  18 "-2" at BC 
  Icefall closed: will have to reopen route
  Each camp adequately provisianal - members strong 
  Two teams of lead climbers
  1) who made C2 and C3 and Chandler and Ridgeway

  Ridgeway and Chandler pushed 500 ft above C3 Friday, which probably last climbing day although Sat am weather fine
  2) Trimble, Blum, Hans B, Cormack
  (not fixed groups)

  Mrs Roach still not at BC as of 13 Sept - was at Syangboche Sat
  Snowing last 5:00 pm right when I was on radio and today's morning report said bad weather. Also Trimble in C2 last night. Some climbers expected to be in BC today coming down from higher camps through Icefall today.


  MB Pandey, MFA - 15 Sept 76

  Everest LO says: snow last 4 days slowed progress; all members well.


  PM Singh, MFA

  C3, 23,000 ft today 11:00 am
    Dee Crouch
    Gerry Roach
    Frank Morgan
    Dan Emmett
    Jon Wright
    Namaz Dorje
    Pemba Tenzing


  PM Singh, MFA - 8 Sept 76

  Everest C2 21,000 ft 11:00 am 8 Sept
    Frank Morgan
    Gary Roach
    Dee Crouch
    Dan Emmett
    Jon Wright


  PM Singh, MFA - 3 Sept 76

  C1 19,400 ft 2 Sept


  PM Singh, MFA - 29 Aug 76

  Jonathan Wright 9:45 am while coming back from Icefall to BC fell down about 50 ft but no injury; rescued by Sherpas and now in BC.

  Trying establish C1 yesterday.


  MB Pandey, MFA - 29 Aug 76

  LO (sent 27th): 
  Tomorrow 4 am 4 members and 4 Sherpas planning to go towards Icefall.
  28th - today 4 and 4 went for climbing.

  Expedition: External Icefall 29th weather clear and cold until early afternoon, light snow at night. Leader ankle improved, walked from Lobuche to BC.

  1 member toothache.

  LO: 29th Aug again going into icefall.


  Rileys, KTM - 26 & 27 Aug 76

  Met Trimble at Namche 18th. Had been carried for 2 days to Namche - cheerful despite still swollen ankle which had twisted on slippery trail.


  Pandey, MFA - 20 Aug 76

  American Everest Expedition arrive Namche 15 Aug, leave 19 Aug, arrive BC 26 Aug according message from LO sent after Namche arrival.


  ABEE (press conference) - 30 July 76

  Joe Reinhard, ABC mgr; close BC to all interests and purposes
  Numbers of team 5 members who climbed together including Trisul last year 
    Arlene Blum
    Trimble and other 2 lawyers
    Bruyntjes

  Leave KTM Tuesday 3 Aug, arrive BC 3 weeks later.

  Route established and ready for summit attempts last week Sept or early Oct depending snow conditions.

  Have food for 70 days from BC. Enough oxygen and HA rations to put entire team on summit and hope to do so and several Sherpas and CBS.

  Statistically better off in spring, but no choice. "Magic of worlds highest mountain took over" when heard Everest available; had planned 8000m peak.

  Planned low budget and semi alpine-style - so South Col route

  2 medical studies:
  1) psychological studies
  2) psychological studies

  23 HA Sherpas
  Trimble climbed US, New Guinea, Garwhal Himal, etc
  First time for any in Nepal - all climbed over 20,000 ft.

  All BBC have climbing experience - may supplement climbers effort success "depends on weather and acclimatization." Given those factors, I am very optimistic, "strong team."


expid: EVER76101
peakid: EVER
year: 1976
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Tony Streather
sponsor: Joint British Army & Royal Nepalese Army Everest Expedition
ascent1: 21st?
countries: Nepal
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1976-03-24
smtdate: 1976-05-16
smttime: 1515
othersmts: Climbed Pokalde (POKA-761-01), Island Peak, Lobuche East and Chhukung
campsites:
  BC(24/03,5425m),C1(03/04,5950m),C2(09/04,6650m),C3(21/04,6950m),C4(30/04,7620m),C5(12/05,8000m),C6(14/05,8380m),Smt(16/05)

routememo:
  Doug Scott - 14 Oct 78

  Scott himself has same doubt about summit success of British Army:

  Compare "Soldiers on Everest" photo captioned Brummie Stokes approaching Hillary Step and photo in Quest (March/April 1977) article on American Bicentennial Expedition photo by Chandler captioned from South Summit. British pre-monsoon photo shows much less snow than in autumn.


  Streather (press conference) - 25 May 76

  Hoped get to mountain in March which did; surprised to find mountain black (clear of snow). Got through Icefall 4-5 days. Strong wind became apparent as got up higher. Plans was to get camps up to Col in April so when weather settled in 1st week May could get to summit between 10th and 20th May. Got camps fairly far up and then Icefall gave great trouble and for 5 days route cut. From then on great trouble with Icefall and used all 40 sections of our ladders and 33 of others left by Bonington, Italians and Japanese ladies and 3 bridges of logs.

  Weather then became problem; wind dropped and by 14 May high camps established with C6 at 27,500 ft (with 2 men) and 4 men at C5 in Col and 4 in C4, thus chance of 10 to top, but very bad blizzard 14/15 May and Streather much concerned about survival at C6 and C5. Had to have proceedings on 15th but 16th weather quite reasonable. By then same oxygen supplies used and men had been at high altitude.

  16th to summit; reached foot South Summit in little over 1 hour, which very fast, but then weather started deteriorating and snow slowed them. They set themselves deadline of 3 pm, when were at Hillary Step and got to top 3:15 or 3:30 stayed only few minutes. Saw no sign of Mick. During descent weather bad and progress slow.

  16th Scott and Gunson moved up to C6 to give help or make 2nd attempt. At nightfall reported non-arrival and no one knew where summiters were.

  17th Scott and Gunson went upwards and by 10 am had met summiters coming down slowly and exhausted and frostbitten and Stokes snowblinded. Scott and Gunson escorted them down to South Col by 6 pm. 2 Sherpas and 2 climbers went up from C5 to help Lane who was able to come right down C2 on 18th but Stokes more slowly and reached only C4 8 pm.

  19th Stokes to C2 will lose bits of little toes. 

  Wanted Nepal army as well as British army on top but Bagrot sick throughout and he main hope of RNA as summiter. Other 2 RNA didn't have enough experience.

  10 British reached South Col supported by 17 other British and other 2 RNA (who reached C4).

  If had 10 days fine weather after 14th, possible 1 RNA and 1 Gurkha and 2 Sherpas could have gotten to top.

  No view at all from top. 


  Lane - 21 May 76

  [Lane walking awkwardly with stick and wearing red felt over boots]; will lose litte toes and fingers.

  Bringing Brian down to BC today; halfway down Icefall clearly when have left BC today.

  Stokes got sunblindness (last his glasses at biv) and frostbite maybe little more severe than Lane but not much, but more exhausted. Dr with him two days; sight maybe Ok today or tomorrow. Lane now to hospital but may be not to stay, but last year last little also - Brian numbs.

  16th weather clouded in about 10:30 and stayed that way till 4-4:30. Got to 3/4 hour from C6 on good day - 28,000 ft.
   
  Didn't see Chinese thing on top.

  No trace of Mick Burke; day after tomorrow all at BC.


  Keelam at BC - 15 May 76

  Unannounced  blizzard, worst to date, struck Mount Everest overnight 14/15 May. All survived including summit pair at C6, but there can be no question of summit attempt today. Deep new snow is causing many difficulties. Expedition will remain poised for summit bid 16 May in hope weather improves. If not withdrawal will become necessary as those at high level are deteriorating rapidly. It may be possible to mount subsequent assault pre-monsoon.


  PM Singh - 15 May 76

  C6, 14 May by Brummie Stokes and Bronco Lane. Today's weather bad they wait in C5 today for so summit attempt tomorrow.


  BC to Butler - 8 May 76

  Winds have delayed establishment of C5 - Icefall still giving trouble.


  From Peacock BC via Butler - 5 May 76
   
  Armstrong, Day, S Johnson and Neame reached South Col today; stocking of camps starts tomorrow am and occupation expected tomorrow night. 

  Icefall in very bad condition. No route between C1 and ABC because top part of Icefall breaking up.


  BC to KTM from Butler - 2 May 76

  C4 first occupants: 
    Hardie
    Chris Johnson
    Scott 
    Gunson


  BC to KTM from MFA - 1 May 76

  C4 25,000 ft established; weather exceptionally fine.


  Peacock to Butler - 29 April 76

  C4 - 25,000 ft placed 29th occupying it 20 1/2 way up face.
  Weather extremely last day or so. Summit bid 2nd week May.


  Streather -> Bowring, BC - 16 April 76

  Thompson buried 09:00 hrs top of Icefall.

  Wasn't wearing his glasses (found in his tent) and just couldn't see where he was going (fatigue and altitude caused him not wear glasses). 


  19 April 76

  Tim King to KTM 22 April suspected pneumonia. No progress because 5 members sick, very bad weather especially very high winds.


  PM Singh, MFA - 12 April 76

  Captain Thompson killed at 17:00 hrs 10 April; fell in crevasse near C2. Body recovered and now at C2 (established 9 April at 21,800 ft). Streather and Armstrong remaining at C2 and descending to BC 12 April. Thens Athens at C2 and staying there. 


  Mike Butler - 12 April 76

  Thompson died at 17:00 hrs Sat 10th; C1 said he fell into crevasse near C2.

  Streather and Armstrong remaining at C2, body recovered and is at C2.
  C2 established 7th April.


  6 April 76

  Doug Keelan arrive KTM Today with hernia; goes to BMH Dharan on 8 April for operation and thence Khunde for recuperation/reacclimatization hoping to rejoin expedition and go high.


  Streather (press conference) - 27 Feb 76

  Lt Col Tony Streather reached very near Kangchenjunga summit, Nepal's 2nd highest mountain; now back for highest.

  Nuptse was preparatory expedition.

  Prince Charles and Prince Himalayas = royal patrons and Chief of Defense Staff Sir Michael Carver and General Singha Bahadur Basnet hope to put RNA Gurkha and British atop - could get possible 8 am summit if weather good - but if bad luck with weather and oxygen problem may have be satisfied with 2 but determined to get someone up.

  34 climbers including 3 RNA and 3 Nepal Gurkhas.

  Advance party of 9 leave today to Dhologhat; next leave March 1 and again 2nd March with 3 or 4 later on. All assemble at Pheriche acclimatization camp. If snow cleared off Icefall, in April go through Icefall. Hillary-Tenzing route. South Col by end April or very early May and be ready for summit when good weather.

  6 camps above BC with C6 will up SE Ridge at about 27,400 ft or as near 28,000 ft as possible.

  Why Everest? more and more experience by AMA and now ready for the top one. Do not plan to go to summit without oxygen. Pat Gunson wants to try without oxygen but may not be allowed to do so and in any way case he would be helped by those with oxygen.

  1 sirdar and 10 high Sherpas
  15 Icefall porters

  Sonam Girme, sirdar
  Nuptse 1975

  "We will use logistic skill" to hence right amount of supplies and people for success; did some computer work too.

  Just over $50,000 in cash and ratios and RAF transport
  19,000 kg and equipment and food

  Still just as big a challenge to mountaineer whether others have done it before or not.

  Hopes BC on his 50th birthday 24th March (made Kangchenjunga BC 24th March).
  Will fly out from Lukla. 
  Optimistic about success if Icefall safe and good weather and good luck.

  Only 3 climbing members have not been to Himalayas; before this Streather's 7th time, probably most experienced team ever to come to Himalayas.


  John Pencock - 27 Feb 76

  All meet Pheriche
  leave 27 Feb - 8 Brits and 1 Gurkha
  leave  1 Mar - 15 (9 Brits and 2 RNA + 4 Gurkhas)
         2 Mar - 9 Brits incl Times, Streather and Fleming, and 3 Gurkhas
                 and Sirdar Sonam Girme and 1 RNA

  All in Pheriche by 18th March and BC by end March

  Through Icefall about 7th or 8th 
  Adv BC 10th & 14th
  South Col by end April - 1st week May
  One camp above Col
  Plan 3 parties of 2 each on top
  About 8 British who could go to top, others strictly British Sherpas.

  10 HA Sherpas
  15 Icefall Sherpas
  1 sirdar
  3 RNA
  3 Gurkhas
  1 RAF
  2 Marines
  25 British AMA
  ---
  34 total


  Mike Kefford - 10 Feb 76

  Streather on 27th and 8
  Peacock Leave KTM 1 & 2 March 23rd + 14 - 9 leave KTM 27th
  2 arrive 2 + 9 March - fly to Lukla
  Pheriche acclimatization camp
  BC occupied about 1 April 
  9 Club expedition, not national expedition
  Sirdar = Sonam Girme (Nuptse)


