# exped

expid: EVER09116
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Peru
leaders: Richard Hidelgo
sponsor: Peru Everest
bcdate: 2009-04-22
smtdate: 2009-06-05
termdate: 2009-06-07
termnote: Abandoned at 8400m due to toes getting cold and bad weather
campsites: BC(22/04,5200m),ABC(30/04,6400m),C1(21/05,7100m),C2(03/06,7700m),C3(04/06,8300m),xxx(05/06,8400m)
agency: Adventure Extreme
routememo:
  Peru Everest, Richard Hidalgo (only climber) - 10 June 2009

  Hidalgo climbed without Sherpa support or artificial oxygen. From ABC on 5 May, he went to the North Col, where planned to have his C1, but he did not sleep there; this was an acclimatization climb. He made another acclimatization climb to the Col, then descended to BC on the 12th to rest.

  On the 19th, he returned to ABC, made C1 on the Col on the 21st, and on the 22nd went up to his C2 site, but it was windy and he went back to ABC to wait for good weather. Snowfall and wind kept him in ABC until the 27th, when returned to C1. On the 28th he reached 7500m, but again the wind was strong; he stayed that night in C1, down to ABC on the 29th.

  On 2nd June the weather had improved and he climbed back to C1. On the 3rd he was in C2, and on the 4th he arrived at his last campsite for C3 at 8300m. He got there rather late, at 8:00 pm (Nepal time); he had planned to stay for just two hours helping the Canadians to dig their tents out of the snow. Now he was tired, so he stayed the night at C3. He left C3 for the summit at 10:00 pm on 5 June with Canadians but had reached only 8400m by 11:00 am. It was impossible to find under deep snow the fixed ropes that had not been used by other climbers during the previous ten days. So back to C3 and on the 6th to ABC.

  His toes had started getting cold when he was at 8400m. Whether he would have continued to go for the summit if fixed ropes been available, he can't say. In any case, his cold toes plus bad weather convinced him he should abandon his climb. He left the mountain on 7 June.


expid: EVER09117
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Samuli Mansikka
sponsor: SummitClimb International Everest Expedition 2009
countries: Finland, UK
bcdate: 2009-04-07
smtdate: 2009-05-19
smttime: 1040
termdate: 2009-05-23
campsites: BC(07/04,5350m),C1(16/04,6000m),C2(24/04,6375m),C3(29/04,7150m),C4(18/05,7950m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  SummitClimb International Everest Expedition 2009, Samuli Mansikka - 1 June 2009

  The summit party consisted of all six members and two Sherpas, Thile Nurbu and Tenji. They left C4 at 9:15 pm on 18 May. Maehl turned around at 8400m at 2:00 am on the 19th because he had a bad cough and wasn't feeling well; he descended to C2. The others continued on to the top: Sahney was the first of them to arrive there, at 10:40 am and Wagner was the last, at 10:55 am. They stayed in C4 that night and went to C2 on the 20th; all the summiters reached C2 at 3:00 pm except Mansikka, who had responsibilities for his Lhotse expedition as well this one and who joined them in C2 at 6:00 pm. All were in BC on the 21st.

  Oxygen was used by all the members in C3 to their high points to wherever between C4 and C2 their supplies ran out. The Sherpas used it from C3 to the top to various places between C4 & C2 as their supplies became exhausted.

  Sherpas:
    Tenji, 1/6/82, Patle, Okhaldhunga, Everest X4
    Thile Nurbu, 26/5/74, Chaplung, Chaurikharka-3, Solu, Everest X3, Lhotse X1


expid: EVER09118
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Phil Crampton
sponsor: Altitude Junkies Everest Expedition 2009
countries: USA
bcdate: 2009-04-01
smtdate: 2009-05-19
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2009-05-24
agency: Explore Himalaya
campsites:
  BC.Ldr(01/04,5350m),BC.Mbrs(08/04,5350m),C1(14/04,6000m),C2(22/04,6400m),C3(16/05,7150m),C4(17/05,7950m),Smt(19,21/05)

routememo:
  Altitude Junkies Everest, Phil Crampton - 31 May 2009

  The team went for the summit on two days. On 18 May Crampton, Parkinson and Rogers left C4 for the top at 8:00 pm with Sherpas Tarke and Tawa Chhiri at 9:00 pm. At 9:00 am on the 19th they were at the bottom of the Hillary Step, where Parkinson and Rogers turned back and descended to C4 at 11:00 am with the two Sherpas. Rogers was nearly blind: the cornea in one eye had frozen, and other was freezing. Parkinson's toes had felt cold; when she was in C4, she found that five toes had gotten frostbitten (they will heal). Crampton had already been to the summit at 7:00 am, and he returned to C4 at 1:00 pm.

  They all went down to C2 on the 20th and BC on the 21st. Rogers and Parkinson left BC on the 24th.

  Meanwhile Westgate had left C4 in her own summit bid at 8:45 pm on the 20th with Chhewang Palden. They got to the top at 7:00 am on the 21st, stayed in C4, went down to C2 on the 22nd and were back in BC on the 23rd. 

  Bonner had reached C2 on 8 May. A blood clot formed in his leg and moved to his lung; he was down in BC on the 9th and left in a helicopter to Kathmandu on the 15th.

  Oxygen was used by all members and Sherpas on their summit bids. The members were on oxygen from the Yellow Band (about 7700m) to their high points to C3. Sherpas used it in C4 to their high points to C4.

  Sherpas:
    Chhewang Palden, 6/1/74, Sotang-6, Solu, Everest X2
    Tarke Sherpa, 1967, Raksha Kharka, Lokhim-4, Solu, Cho Oyu X5, Everest X2,
      Manaslu X1
    Tawa Chhiri, 26/1/79 (12/10/2035), Sotang-6, Solu, no previous 8000ers


expid: EVER09119
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Joseph Klopack
sponsor: International Adventure Alternative (Klopack on Everest)
approach: Namche->Khumjung->Tengboche->Dingboche->Lobuche
bcdate: 2009-04-15
smtdate: 2009-04-27
termdate: 2009-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to throat problem
campsites: BC(15/04,5380m),C1(24/04,5975m),C2(25/04,6400m),xxx(27/04,7000m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Klopack during his acclimatization climb, went up to 23,000 ft (around) on 27 April, walked around C3 for about an hour with Maila Tamang and back to C2. Next day to BC. 

  Klopack suffered from dry throat on 1 May for four days. He was waiting for the improvement from his throat sickness but it became worst, throat became completely dry. He returned to Kathmandu on 25 May and will leave on 27 May.


expid: EVER09120
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Ecuador
leaders: Jairo Gonzalez
sponsor: Monterosa Everest International Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2009-04-19
smtdate: 2009-05-21
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2009-05-26
campsites: BC(19/04,5200m),ABC(25/04,6125m),C1(18/05,7100m),C2(19/05,7700m),C3(20/05,8300m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Gonzalez and Pema left C3 at 8 pm on 20 May. They reached summit at 7:30 am NST on 21 May, stayed on summit for 20 minutes, descended to C3 at 6 pm. They had some rest and continued descending but they to bivouac at 7800m at about 11 pm. They arrived ABC on 22 May. Summit day weather was very good. Other climbers on summit were Canadian [Pizarro], Anna Baranska from Poland and some Sherpas. 

  Sherpa:
    Pema Sherpa, 28/8/73 (12/5/2030), Ekuwa, Pathivara-1, Makalu-5, 
      Everest X1 (16/5/07)


expid: EVER09121
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Africa
leaders: Reyno Skar
sponsor: South African to Everest
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2009-04-15
smtdate: 2009-04-23
termdate: 2009-05-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m because never intended to go beyond C2
campsites: BC(15/04,5300m),C1(22/04,5900m),xxx(23/04,6400m)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  High point at C2 site.

  Skar had never really intended to climb beyond C2, or maybe C3. He was on a Lhotse permit. He just wanted to have a look at what Everest is like and maybe come back next year. Skar and Densa reached C2 but never stayed a night. They went straight back to BC and remained there. They were planning on going up again, but Skar was too tired and decided to leave.

  Sherpa:
    Densa Bhote, 30/10/81, Hungung, Sankhuwasabha, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X1


expid: EVER09122
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Anna Baranaska
sponsor: A Pole to Everest
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2009-04-19
smtdate: 2009-05-21
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2009-05-28
campsites: BC(19/04,5300m),C1(09/05,7000m),C2(15/05,7600m),C3(20/05,8300m),Smt(21/05)
achievment: 1st Polish female to summit from north
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Baranska and Pemba Chhuti started from C3 at 9 pm NST on 20 May. They reached summit on 21 May at 7:30 am on 21 May, stayed on summit for 15 minutes, then descended to C3 at 3 pm, slept there. Next day to ABC. The weather on summit day was sunny, little bit of wind. The team returned to Kathmandu on 29 May and will leave on 1 June.

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Chhuti Sherpa, 21/12/73 (06/09/2030), Yaphu-9, Everest X3


expid: EVER09123
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: John Tsang
sponsor: International Adventure Alternative (Hong Kong to Everest)
bcdate: 2009-04-05
smtdate: 2009-05-21
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2009-05-25
campsites: BC(05/04,5350m),C1(17/04,6000m),C2(21/04,6400m),C3(25/04,7200m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Tsang and his 2 Sherpas left C4 for the summit at 9:00 pm on 20 May, reached the top at 7:30 am on 21st and stayed in C4; went to C2 on 22nd and BC 23rd.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Tshering, 15/6/75, Khumjung, Ever X4, Anna X1, Cho Oyu X1 (with Tsang)
    Pasang Dawa, 16/6/80, Khumjung, Everest X1


expid: EVER09124
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Norway
leaders: Petter Kragset
sponsor: Team Hakallestranda to Everest
bcdate: 2009-04-23
smtdate: 2009-05-22
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2009-05-26
campsites: BC(23/04,5200m),ABC(08/05,6400m),C1(12/05,7100m),C2(20/05,7700m),C3(21/05,8300m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Tseringma Treks
routememo:
  Summit team left C3 at 10 pm (NST) on 21 May and reached summit at 6:30 am Nepali time. Weather was cold but calm. They spent 30 minutes on summit. They saw storm accumalating down below. They descended to C1 arrived at 6 pm. On 23 May they descended to ABC. 

  Brevik reached C1 on 12 May. He stayed the night. When he was back at ABC. He decided on 13 May go back to Norway for personal reasons. 

  Kragset reached C2 on 20 May together with Gronneroe. He stayed at C2 for one night but was too exhausted to carry on. He returned to ABC on 21 May. He used oxygen from C1 to C2 to C1.

  Gronnoroe and two other Norwegians from Lars Erichrud's team found Jarle Traa (an independent) on 25 May. He was previously found by two Sherpas at C3. Traa had been lost above 8300m for 48 hours. He stumbled in C3 and found two Sherpas. Traa descended with two Sherpas to North Col. There three Norwegians met him and helped him to ABC. Traa had internal temperature of 30 degrees. He was then taken to BC by yaks. They got helicopter approved but weather was bad. He was evacuated by jeep.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Nuru, Thami, Khumbu, 22/11/80, Everest X4


expid: EVER09125
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Norway
leaders: Lars Oma Erichsrud
sponsor: Face 2 Face Everest 2009
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2009-04-24
smtdate: 2009-05-22
smttime: 0628
termdate: 2009-05-25
campsites: BC(24/04,5700m),ABC(29/04,6400m),C2(20/05,7700m),C3(21/05,8300m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Tseringma Treks
routememo:
  Team left C3 at 9:30 pm on 21 May. Weather was cold, clear and very windy. Weather turned very stormy. As they were keen to get down they descended to ABC. Arrived there at 10 pm. They stayed at ABC. On 24 May they started to get worried about Jarle Traa. They sent Nawang Tenzing, Jangbu and Lhakpa Sherpa (of Kragset's expedition) to C3 to look for Traa, but no success. Sherpas descended to ABC same day. On 25 May Traa came down to ABC. Lhakpa and Nyquist helped him down from bottom of face leading to North Col on 25 May. They left ABC at 1 pm and left BC the same night as they had to evacuate Traa.

  Sherpas:
    Jangbu Sherpa, Tamiteng, Khumbu, 1st time on Everest and other 8000ers
    Nawang Tenzing, Beding, Rolwaling, 12/5/67, Everest 29/5/05, 16/05/07


expid: EVER09126
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Taiwan
leaders: Wu Yu-Lung
sponsor: Atunas Taiwanese 7 Summits Everest
bcdate: 2009-04-14
smtdate: 2009-05-19
smttime: 1015
termdate: 2009-05-24
campsites: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(20/04,5900m),C2(27/04,6400m),C3(13/05,7200m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Summit team left C4 at 10 pm. Weather was calm and clear. Very busy, about 40 minutes wait at Hillary Step. They spend 20 minutes on summit, then descended to C4, arrived at 3 pm. On 20 May to C2; on 21 May to BC.

  Hsieh reached C3 on 13 May, stayed 1 night for acclimatization when team returned to BC. He caught a cold. On summit push he reached C2, but returned to BC as he was not feeling well.

  Sherpas:
    Tshering Thundu Sherpa, Khumjung, Khumbu, 4/10/74 (18/6/2031),
      Everest 2007 & 2004 with Dream Everest, Cho Oyu X1
    Phura Nuru, Tesho, Namche-5, 28/6/85, Everest X1
    Ngima Nuru, Tesho, Namche-5, 6/11/81, Everest X9, Cho Oyu X1


expid: EVER09127
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Gavin Bate
sponsor: Adventure Alternative International Everest Expedition
countries: Ireland
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2009-04-12
smtdate: 2009-05-19
termdate: 2009-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 8700m due to too many people on summit ridge
campsites: BC(12/04,5400m),C1(22/04,5900m),C2(04/05,6200m),C3(17/05,7100m),C4(18/05,7900m),xxx(19/05,8700m)
agency: Himalayan Windhorse Adventure
routememo:
  On 18 May high point team, Bate, Pasang Tendi and Danuru left C4 at 10 pm. Bate had problems with his oxygen. Greene and Lobsang carried on while 3 others stopped at 8500m to fix oxygen mask. Bate felt very unwell, so they returned back to South Col. Rested there and Pasang, Danuru and Bate descended to C2. Arrived at noon.

  When Greene and Lobsang arrived at South Summit, there were too many people at summit ridge and Greene got a bit frightened by the looks of ridge. Arrived there at noon.

  Lee reached 6500m (bottom of Lhotse face on 6 May). She gave up there due to no energy. After acclimatization trip, she was at BC and flew back to Kathmandu with cook who had alcohol poisoning on 13 May. She wanted to be at hospital with him. She returned to BC on 17 May but never tried another summit push.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Tendi, Kharikhola, 25/11/1974, Everest South 2001 & 2003, Cho Oyu 2002
    Danuru Sherpa, Kharikhola, Solu, about 33 yrs, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X2
      (brother of Lhakpa Gelu, speed climber)
    Lobsang Sherpa, Kharikhola, about 23 yrs, Everest North 2007 (US Team)
    Nima Sherpa, Taksindu, Solu


expid: EVER09128
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Scott Woolums
sponsor: The Johnny Strange Expedition
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2009-04-18
smtdate: 2009-05-20
smttime: 0810
termdate: 2009-05-23
campsites: BC(18/04,5400m),C1(25/04,5900m),C2(27/04,6400m),C3(18/05,7200m),C4(19/05,7900m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  Team left C4 at 9:45 pm on 19 May. Weather was clear with little wind. Climb was straightforward. Team spent 1 hour on summit. Good views. They descended to C4 where they arrived at 3:30 pm. Brian Strange had to be lowered down due to exhaustion. On 21 May they descended from C4 to C2, BC on 22 May.

  Sherpas:
    Temba Sherpa, Sotang-6, Solu, 04/09/77, Everest 25/5/2008
    Pasang Sherpa, Dipsung-6, Khotang 12/3/85 (29/11/2041), no 8000ers
    Jangbu Sherpa, Sotang-6, Solu, 1/10/81, Everest 21/5/2008
    Da Wangchu, Kurima, Lokhim-9, (3/12/2035), Everest 2005
    Namgyal Sherpa, Rakha-5, Khotang, 5/10/77, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X5


expid: EVER09129
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Libor Uher
sponsor: K & K Annapurna Expedition
bcdate: 2009-05-01
smtdate: 2009-06-04
termdate: 2009-06-08
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to bad weather
othersmts: Attempted Annapurna I (ANN1-091-01)
campsites: BC(01/05,5200m),ABC(04/05,6400m),C1(06/05,7020m),C2(17/05,7700m),C3(04/06,8300m),xxx(04/06,8300m)
accidents: Valchar pulmonary edema
agency: Iceland Trekking (Tendi)
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  High point at C3.

  The team attempted Annapurna I in April, then tried to scale Everest in May-June. Neither attempt was successful.

  They were five members on Annapurna, but two (Behun and Radim) had to return to the Czech Republic, leaving Masek, Uher and Valchar to try to try to climb Everest. But Valchar left soon, leaving just two: Valchar reached ABC on 4 May with his teammates but developed pulmonary edema, left ABC on the 6th and BC on the 9th to return to Kathmandu and go home.

  Meanwhile on the 6th, Uher and Masek climbed to the North Col and pitched C1 there on an acclimatization climb. They stayed two nights, then descended to ABC and BC on the 8th to rests. On the 14th they returned to ABC; on the 16th to C1; on the 17th they went up to 7700m and made C2; and on the 19th they went back to ABC; this also had been an acclimatization climb, which, they felt they needed since they had brought oxygen for medical use only, not for climbing or sleeping.

  They went down to BC on the 22nd to rest. Two days later they were back in ABC, ready for their push to reach the summit on the 28th. But bad weather (wind and snowfall) intervened, and they waited at ABC for it to improve. They started up again on the 30th and reached 6700m, where they had earlier left a cache of high altitude equipment. The cache was gone (stolen by someone, they believe), so on the the 31st they returned to ABC. Here they borrowed some equipment for Masek from the Canadians led by Gabriel Filippi, and Uher used items left by Valchar when he went home.

  On 2 June they went once again to C1, pulling fixed ropes out from under deep snow, while the two Canadians and a Peruvian (Hidalgo) waited a couple hours and then followed them, the Czechs claimed. On the 3rd Uher and Masek returned to C2 and on the 4th pitched their last camp C3 at 8300m.

  But again snow and low clouds halted their progress, and on the 5th they descended to ABC. Now they were very tired, having struggled for a month without Sherpa helpers or bottled oxygen. They went back down to BC on the 6th, decided on the 7th to abandon the climb and left BC on the 8th to return to Kathmandu.


expid: EVER09130
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Damian Benegas
sponsor: Patagonian Brothers Everest Expedition 2009
countries: Argentina
bcdate: 2009-04-13
smtdate: 2009-05-19
smttime: 0920
termdate: 2009-05-24
campsites: BC(13/04),C1(21/04,5900m),C2(27/04,6450m),C3(17/05,7150m),C4(18/05,7400m),Smt(18/05)
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  All four members and Palden Nima left C4 at 9:30 pm on 18 May to go to the top. Benegas, Collinson, Sahores and Palden Nima reached the summit at 9:20 am on the 19th. Rehfeld, who is 64 years old, was much slower than they; in his descent from the summit, Benegas had to turn back at the top of the Hillary Step and take him up the fixed ropes, waiting in the queue for others to move, and they got to the top at 11:30 am (in the team's first ascent, they climbed past the slower ones on the ropes). Collinson, Sahores and Palden Nima returned to C4 at 1:30 pm while Rehfeld, who was very tired and needed to rest, and Benegas were in C4 at 7:20 pm. Benegas spent time in his descent to fix 120 meters of rope 200m below the South Summit to permit two-way traffic, and to help to get the exhausted independent Irishman Martin Byrne down the camp. All of this team returned to C2 on the 20th and to BC on the 21st.

  Oxygen was used by the members in C3 to the top to and in C3. Palden Nima used it from C4 to the top to C4.

  Sherpa:
    Palden Nima, 29/8/78, Yaphu-9, Makalu, Everest X2


expid: EVER09131
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Paul Noble
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Everest Expedition 2009
countries: USA
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2009-04-20
smtdate: 2009-05-22
smttime: 0643
termdate: 2009-05-28
campsites: BC(20/04,5500m),ABC(27/04,6400m),C1(07/05,7000m),C2(20/05,7700m),C3(21/05,8300m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Summit team and Noble, Lianne left C3 at 9:30 pm on 21 May. Weather was clear and windy. Lianne Noble turned back at about 8400m (on junction of main ridge) due to cold feet and hands. She descended to C2. Rest of team carried on to summit, spent about 15 minutes there. Apart from Edwards and Surendra who stayed at C3 (arrived at about) everyone else descended to C2, where they arrived between 5 pm and 9:30 pm). On 23 May to ABC; 24 May to BC.

  Note: 18 bottles of oxygen were stolen from team at C3. They noticed it on summit push. Noble got some oxygen from Croatian team.

  Sherpas:
    Dorje Khatri, Lelep-9, Taplejung, 19/12/68, Everest 2006 & 2007
    Dawa Dorje, Pangboche, Khumbu, 22/8/83, Everest 2008
    Namgya Tsering, Khumjung-1, Khumbu 22/8/82, no 8000ers
    Sonam Dorje, Pangboche, Khumbu, 8/11/86, Everest 2006, Cho Oyu 2006
    Nuru Wangchu, Pangboche, Khumbu, 18/8/77, Everest 2000, 2002, 2004, 2007, 2008
      (brother of Sonam Dorje)
    Surendra Kumar Gurung, Khewang-2, Taplejung, 10/11/73 (25/6/2030),
      Everest 2007 with Adventure Peaks (Robin Beadle leader)


expid: EVER09132
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Alois Bogenschuetz
sponsor: Alois Bogenschuetz Everest 2009
bcdate: 2009-04-14
smtdate: 2009-05-20
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2009-05-23
campsites: BC(14/04),C1(21/04,6050m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(02/05,7200m),C4(19/05),Smt(20/05,7900m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Bogenschuetz and Pasang Nuru left C4 for the top at 10:00 pm on 19 May and were on the summit at 8:30 am on 20 May. They descended to C3, where they arrived at 6:00 pm. They were in BC at 3:00 pm on the 21st.

  Oxygen: Bogenschuetz started using it at about 7700m on the Yellow Band and continued to use it in and from C4 to the top to and in C3. Pasang Nuru used it in C4 to the summit to but not in C3.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Nuru, 17/5/74 (4/2/2031), Bupsa, Jubing-5, Solu, Everest X2, Makalu X1


expid: EVER09134
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Yves Morel
sponsor: International Adventure Alternative (Frenchman on Everest)
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2009-04-15
smtdate: 2009-05-19
termdate: 2009-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 8400m due to toes very cold
campsites: BC(15/04,5350m),C1(22/04,5900m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3(17/05,7200m),C4(18/05,7900m),xxx(19/05,8400m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Morel and Nima left C4 at 9 pm on 18 May. He reached the Balcony on 19 May at 2:30 am, however, as Morel's feet were very cold they decided to turn back to C4 where they stopped for a cup of tea and a rest for three hours. They carried on to C3 same day where they arrived at 4 pm.

  Oxygen: from 7700m to high point to C4 by Morel; Camp 4 to high point to C4 by Nima.


expid: EVER09135
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Tika Ram Gurung
sponsor: Mt. Everest Gurung Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Lobuche
bcdate: 2009-05-03
smtdate: 2009-05-19
smttime: 1115
termdate: 2009-05-21
campsites: BC(03/05,5200m),C2(05/05,6500m),C4(18/05,7950m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Bochi Bochi Treks
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C4 South Col.

  Summit push: on 17 May Tika Ram Gurung and Phurba Dorje left BC to C2. On 18 May they arrived C4, South Col. Tika Ram and Phurba left C4 at 11 pm and arrived to the top at 11:15 am on 19 May, stayed on summit for 40 minutes. Tika put on the traditional Gurung dress "Bhangra" on summit. They descended to C4 at 5 pm. Next day to BC. Weather was very good. There were about 15-20 climbers ahead of the Tika's team and about 30 to 35 climbers behind them. The team returned to Kathmandu on 24 May.

  Sherpa:
   Phura/Phurba Dorje Sherpa, 31/7/67 (19/09/2023), Sotang-6, Solu, Everest X5, 
      Lhotse X1, Cho Oyu X1, Makalu X1


expid: EVER09136
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Ireland
leaders: Martin Byrne
sponsor: International Adventure Alternative (Irishman on Everest)
bcdate: 2009-04-12
smtdate: 2009-05-20
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2009-05-24
campsites: BC(12/04),C1(17/04,6100m),C2(18/04,6400m),C3(21/04,7100m),C4(18/05,7400m),Smt(20/05)
accidents: Byrne's total exhaustion and frostbite
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse face
  C4 at South Col
  High point at South Summit for Byrne (Sherpas to summit).

  Byrne and three Sherpas left C4 for the summit at 8:00 pm on 19 May. Nima Gombu and Lhakpa moved faster than Byrne and Tshering Pande and summited at 9:30 am on 20 May. Byrne arrived at the South Summit at 10:30 am on the 20th and could go no farther. He was exhausted. The summit Sherpas rejoined Byrne and Tshering Pande at about 10:45 am, and they all went down to C4 to stay that night. They descended to C2 on the 21st and to BC on the 22nd.

  Byrne was still extremely tired, having made a rapid descent to BC, and furthermore all of his toes were frostbitten (he hopes they will heal, but all are black). On the 24th he went to Pheriche and flew to by helicopter to Kathmandu with Lhakpa.

  I saw Byrne on the 24th, and when I visited his hotel a few days later to see another expedition, he was still there in the lobby, just sitting and waiting for time to pass. He hoped to leave at the end of the June.

  Byrne and his three Sherpas used oxygen. Byrne used it from C3 to the South Summit to and in C2. Lhakpa used it from C3 to C4 with Byrne, to the summit and down to C2. Nima Gombu and Tshering Pande used it from C4 to top to C4.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Sherpa, 24/12/73, Gangahiti, Okhaldhunga, no 8000ers
    Nima Gombu Sherpa, 23/1/69 (10/10/2025), Beding, Everest X13, Cho Oyu X3
    Tshering Pande Bhote, 20/2/78, Hatiya-1, Sankhuwasabha, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X2


expid: EVER09137
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Finland
leaders: Tomi Myllys
sponsor: Airborne Ranger Club of Finland
bcdate: 2009-04-06
smtdate: 2009-05-20
smttime: 0750
termdate: 2009-05-25
campsites: BC(06/04),C1(15/04,6100m),C2(19/04,6400m),C3(29/04,7100m),C4(19/05,7900m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  The expedition mounted one summit bid. At 0:15 on 20 May, six members left C4 for the top. Vermas reached 8200m, was very tired and turned back; he descended all the way to C1 that day. Pietilainen got to the Balcony at about 8400m, also became very tired, and retreated to C3.

  Four members summited: Myllys at 7:50 am, Inkinen at 8:00 am, Rahomaki at 8:30 am, and Leino at 9:00 am. All descended to C3 at 4:00 pm. Inkinen, Myllys and Rahomaki went down to BC on the 21st, while Leino stopped in C1 and joined them in BC the next day.

  Oxygen was used by Pietilainen from C3 to his high point to C3. Leino, Myllys and Vermas used it in C3 to their high points to C3. Inkinen and Rahomaki from the Yellow Band at about 7300m to their high points and down to C3.

  Other non-summiters:

  Karinen went to C2 on 29 April, returned to BC and stayed there during the remaining climbing period.

  Kemppainen got to C2 on 19 April, was very tired, and moved high only on 21 May, when he went to C2 to meet the descending summiters.

  Ohtonen climbed to C3 on 29 April, was too tired to continue climbing and retired to BC for the rest of the climb.


expid: EVER09138
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: David Hamilton
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Everest 2009
countries: Australia, Denmark, Macedonia, Nepal, UK
bcdate: 2009-04-10
smtdate: 2009-05-19
smttime: 0300
termdate: 2009-05-25
campsites: BC(10/04,5350m),C1(20/04,6100m),C2(04/04,6500m),C3(02/05,7350m),C4(18/05,7950m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Five foreign members, one Sherpa member and nine hired Sherpas left C4 for the summit on 18 May in the expedition's only summit bid. They were Bennike, Fulton, Hamilton, Johanson, Kedev, Chuldim Sherpa, Pasang Tenzing, Phu Tshering, Dawa Jangbu, Sange Dorje, Temba Sherpa, Pemba Chhoti, Pasang Bhote, Kul Bahadur Magar and Nawang Chhangba. They left the camp at 9:00 pm on the 18th and were on the top at various time between 3:00 and 9:00 am on 1 May. They returned to C4 that day, descended to C2 on the 20th and to BC on the 21st.

  The summit members used oxygen in C3 to the top to C3. The summit Sherpas used it in C4 to the top to C4.

  Non-summiting climbing members:

  Chaplin got to C2 on 21 April, but soon abandoned the climb and left on the 26th. He was homesick.

  Irani also reached C2 on 21 April and left on the 26th because of business commitments.

  The only serious health problem of anyone on the expedition was the injuries received by Chuldim Sherpa. He went to C4, and in his descent to BC on 21 May, he fell into a crevasse near the top of the Icefall. He fractured eight ribs and suffered a "compression fracture of the vertebral body." He was evacuated from BC to Kathmandu in a helicopter.

  Sherpas summiters:
    Dawa Jangbu, 22/4/73, Pangboche, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X1
    Kul Bahadur Magar, 31/7/70 (16/4/2027), Taluwa-9, Okhaldhunga, no 8000ers
    Nawang Chhangba, 13/9/70 (28/5/2027), Khumjung, Cho Oyu X2
    Pasang Bhote, 19/5/86 (5/2/2043), Chepuwa-4, Makalu, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1
    Pasang Tenzing, 21/1/78, Phortse, Everest X8, Cho Oyu X1
    Pemba Chhoti, 25/11/72 (10/8/2029), Thami, Everest X2
    Phu Tshering, 24/8/77 (8/5/2034), Phortse, no 8000ers
    Sange Dorje, 14/4/78, Khumjung, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2
    Temba Sherpa, 24/6/68 (11/3/2025), Khumjung, Everest X3


expid: EVER09139
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Eiko Funahashi
sponsor: Funahashi Team to Everest
bcdate: 2009-04-23
smtdate: 2009-05-18
termdate: 2009-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 8500m due to Funahashi not strong enough
campsites: BC(23/04),ABC(28/04,6400m),C1(15/05,7060m),C2(16/05,7700m),C3(17/05,8300m),xxx(18/05,8500m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  C1 at North Col

  In her bid to reach the summit, Ms. Funahashi left C3 at 10:00 pm (Nepalese time) on 17 May with four Nepalese "Sherpas": Tul Bahadur Tamang, Jaya Prakash Rai, Hari Bahadur Chaulagain and Kitap Sing Tamang. Ms Funahashi was very slow despite her liberal use of bottle oxygen, and when she had gained only 200 vertical meters in three and a half hours (to 8500m at 1:30 am on 18 May), she turned back. It took her another three and a half hours to get back to C3 (at 4:30 pm), where she slept that night.

  She now decided to abandon the climb. She descended to C1 on the 19th, to ABC on the 20th, to BC on the 21st, and left BC to return to Kathmandu on the 22nd.

  Ms. Funahashi used 12 bottles of oxygen continously from 6800m up to 8500m and down to and in C1 at 7060m. The Nepalis used it in C2, from C3 to 8500m, to but not in C2.

  Nepalese "Sherpas":
    Hari Bahadur Chaulagain, 23/12/71 (10/9/2028), Makalu-2, Everest 24/5/08
    Jaya Prakash Rai, 28/3/74 (15/12/2035), Makalu-6, Makalu 11/5/08
    Kitap Sing Tamang, 30/3/76 (14/5/2033), Deusa, Solu, no 8000ers
    Tul Bahadur Tamang, 3/10/66 (17/6/2023), Deusa, Solu, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2,
      Dhaulagiri I X1, Manaslu X1


expid: EVER09140
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Olaf Zill
sponsor: No Oxygen Expedition 2009
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 2009-04-14
smtdate: 2009-05-19
termdate: 2009-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 7820m due to slow climbers, bad weather
campsites: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(22/04,6110m),C2(26/04,6500m),C3(28/04,7150m),xxx(19/05,7820m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  High point at 7820m.

  On 30 April they had occupied C3. The next day they descended to BC to wait for favorable weather, especially for the wind to abate.

  On 16 May they started up again. They had to go to C2 on the same day because their tent at C1 had been destroyed. On the 18th they climbed to C3, and on 19 May they set out for the South Col. But they turned around at 7820m, at the Geneva Spur, at 3:00 pm because it was now too late for them to reach the Col and returned to C3.

  On the 20th they abandoned their climb and descended to BC. They felt that, as they were climbing without oxygen, it was too dangerous for them to go for the summit immediately, and once they were down in BC, the weather would deteriorate and they would run out of time.


expid: EVER09141
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Rohan Freeman
sponsor: USA-Jamaican Everest Expedition
approach: Namche->Phortse->Dingboche->Lobuche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2009-04-08
smtdate: 2009-05-19
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2009-05-21
campsites: BC(08/04,5334m),C1(16/04,6035m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3(30/04,7400m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(19/05)
achievment: 1st [ethnic] Jamaican, 1st black male American on top of Everest
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  Freeman, Kami and Pemba left C4 about 9:30 pm on 18 May. They arrived at the summit at 8 am on 19 May. Freeman, Kame and Pemba stayed on the summit. Freeman team had to wait for an hour on Hillary Step, lots of people. They reached C4 at 1 pm; had rest and left C4 at 4 pm, then reached C2 at 9:45 pm and slept there. Next day to BC. On summit, the weather was good, clear, partly windy. The team returned to Kathmandu on 25 May and will leave on 25 May.

  Sherpas:
    Kami/Kame Sherpa, April 1962, Kerung-4, Everest X8, Dhaulagiri X1, Cho Oyu X2,
      climbed Everest with Dick Morse in 2008
    Pemba Sherpa, 6/1/80 (22/8/2036), Patle, Okhaldhunga, Everest 23/5/08


expid: EVER09142
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Karl Kobler
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Everest Expedition 2009
countries: Austria, Germany, Spain
bcdate: 2009-04-12
smtdate: 2009-05-20
smttime: 0510
termdate: 2009-05-23
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),C1(15/04,6000m),C2(19/04,6450m),C3(27/04,7200m),C4(19/05,7900m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  This team's Sherpas fixed small bolts on the Lhotse Face, as did Sherpas with expeditions led by Russell Brice and Damian Benegas. This is probably the first time the South Col route had been bolted.

  C3 was occupied by all six members on 27 April. They went down to C2 on the 28th and BC on the 29th to rest. They planned to go for the summit from BC on 7 May, but the window of favourable weather was too short a time -- it was too cold and too windy -- for this to succeed. Then came three days of snowfall. Some members went down to Namche Bazar during this period.

  Finally they could go for the top. All members and five Sherpas started from BC on 17 May and went to C2; on the 18th they were back in C3; on the 19th they climbed to C4. They left C4 that night at 11 o'clock and were on the summit the morning of 20th May. The first of them to reach the top were Diz, Reuss and Namgyal at 5:10 am. Rudolf and Kusang Tenzing were there at 6:00 am, followed by Klepeisz, Kobler, Wehrli, Pemba Norbu, Nima Tendu and Wangchu at 7:00 am.

  All the summiters descended to C2 to sleep, except Rudolf, who was too tired to go that far and stopped in C3. All the Sherpas stayed in C4, except Namgyal, who went down with Reuss to C2. All members were in BC on the 21st and all Sherpas on the 22nd.

  Oxygen was used by all members from C3 to the summit; most of them stopped using it when they descended to C4. The Sherpas used it from C4 to the top to C4.

  Sherpas:
    Kusang Tenzing, 16/5/86, Ghunsa, Lelep-9, Taplejung, Everest 21/5/08
    Namgyal, 11/8/71, Gyabla, Lelep-8, Taplejung, Everest X7
    Nima Tendu, 31/8/73, Pangboche, Khumbu, Everest X2
    Pemba Norbu, 6/12/78 (21/8/2035), Lelep-9, Taplejung, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Wangchu, 2/2/78, Taksindu-3, Solu, Everest X2


  Kari Kobler - Dec 2009 (by phone to Eberhard Jurgalski)

  Kari reconfirmed that Mintenjen (aka Mingma) and Dendi (Taksindu) summited, but Nima Tendu did not, because he does not speak English well enough in Kari's opinion, so Kari remembers well.


expid: EVER09143
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Manuel Diez
sponsor: Espana Everests 2009
countries: Ecuador
approach: Via Chhukung village & Island Peak
bcdate: 2009-04-15
smtdate: 2009-05-19
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2009-05-23
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak on 13 April
accidents: Diez and Monedero fingers and toes numb from frostbite
agency: Prestige Adventure
campsites:
  BC(15,18/04,5350m),C1(19-20/04,6050m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(28/04,7300m),C4(18-19/05,7900m),Smt(19-20/05)

routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Aulestia and Monedero established BC on 15 April. Diez went first to Island Peak, which he summited on 13 April, then stayed briefly at Chhukung village because his left foot was painful; he got to BC on the 18th.

  On 19 April Monedero pitched C1; the other two members arrived at C1 the next day while Monedero went up to C2's site and down to BC. On the 21st Aulestia descended to BC because she had a cough, Diez went to C2's site and back to BC.

  All three members established C2 together in the Western Cwm on 26 April. The next day Diez and Mondero went to the bottom of the West Face of Lhotse while Aulestia remained in C2. On the 28th, all three made C3 on the Lhotse face at 7300m. On the 29th, Mondero first climbed up to 7600m on the face, then descended with his teammates to BC.

  Now the weather turned bad and they descended to the villages to wait for it to improve before going for the summit.

  On 14 May Monedero returned to BC; Aulestia and Diez followed on the 15th. Now they were set for the push to the summit, but they did not all go up on the same day because they had only two two-man tents, so they had to move on different dates. Monedero and Dawa Gyalzen started first: on 16 May they climbed up to C2, on the 17th to C3, and made C4 on the 18th. They left C4 at 10:30 that night and reached the summit at 10:30 am on 19th May. They descended to C2 on the 20th and to BC on the 21st.

  The other two members and their Sherpas moved up from BC to C2 on the 17th, to C3 to the 18th, and to C4 on the 19th. They left C4 for the top at 9:00 pm on the 19th. Diez and Pemba Chhoti made it to the summit at 7:00 am on the 20 May and back to C4 at 11:00 am. But Aulestia went no higher than 8600m (above the Balcony), which she reached at 9:30 am, and then decided it was too late for her to go to the top. She, and Pasang Gyalzen with her, turned back and got to C4 at 1:00 pm. All four descended to C2 on the 21st and to BC on the 22nd.

  Diez and Monedero got frostnip on their fingers and toes.

  Oxygen was used by Aulestia and Diez from 7500m to high points to 7500m. Monedero used it from 8400m to the summit to 8500m. Dawa Gyalzen used it from 7800m to C4 carrying a heavy load and from C4 to top to C4. Pasang Gyalzen and Pemba Chhoti used it from C4 to the top to C4.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Gyalzen, 10/5/86, Beding, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1
    Pasang Gyalzen, 30/9/64, Walung, Makalu, Cho Oyu X2, Xixabangma X1, 
      Dhaulagiri I X1
    Pemba Chhoti Sherpa, 27/1/81, Beding, Everest X6


expid: EVER09144
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Arnold Coster
sponsor: SummitClimb International Everest Expedition 2009
countries: Canada, France, Iran, Netherlands, UK
bcdate: 2009-04-17
smtdate: 2009-05-20
smttime: 0815
termdate: 2009-05-25
campsites: BC(17/04),ABC(23/04,6400m),C1(01/05,7000m),C2(18/05,7800m),C3(19/05,8300m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  Summit Climb Everest Expedition, Arnold Coster - 1 June 2009

  The expedition reached the summit in two groups. The first one was composed of Chen, Coron, Geranmayea, Springer, Yazdipour, Sherpas Jangbu and Lhakpa Gelu, and Tibetans Karsang, Lopchong and Yonten. The party left C3 at 10:00 pm (Chinese time) on 19 May and all of them got to the summit, but at different times. The first to summit were Coron with Jangbu and Springer with Lopchong at 8:15 am (6:00 NST). Next came Chen with Yonten at 8:30 am (6:15 NST), and Yazdipour with Lhakpa Gelu at 9:00 am (6:45 NST).

  Much later came Geranmayea with Karsang at 12:00 noon (9:45 NST) or later. Geranmayea was very slow, which resulted in his running out of oxygen at the Second Step while descending from the top. Karsang also ran out of oxygen at the same time, and he went down to C3 to fetch more for both of them while Geranmayea fell asleep at about the First Step. Karsang went back up to Geranmayea at 7:00 am on the 21st and they descended to C3 together at 8:00 am.

  Now Geranmayea was very confused. He refused to descend any more, threw away his backpack containing his passport, money and other items. His compatriot Yazdipour stayed with him in C3;  he also had altitude sickness and didn't want to descend. The leader, Coster, sent more Sherpas up to make them come down; they were brought to C2 at 2:00 am on the 22nd and were on their way home on the 30th. Both had badly frostbitten fingers and toes.

  The second summit party consisted of just two members, a Sherpa and a Tibetan: Hopper, Tertil, Pasang Gelu and Bianba. They started up from C3 at 11:00 pm on the 21st. They encountered the two Iranians at 8500m, gave them medication and assigned Bianba to stay with them; Hopper and Tertil turned back with them to help get them down to C3. By the time Hopper and Tertil had finished helping the Iranians, it was 8:00 am on the 22nd, and Hopper and Tertil were too tired to reach the summit; they and Pasang Gelu descended to C1 at 4:00 pm.

  Other non-summiting members:

  Coster went to only C1 this time.
  Ludlow got to C2 only; too slow to make real progress.
  Palmer reached 7200m, lost motivation to climb and left the expedition on 22 May.

  Oxygen was used by both summit teams: members from C1 to their high points to C1, Sherpas and Tibetans from C2 to their high points to C2.

  Sherpas:
    Jangbu, 22/2/81, Kharikhola, Everest X2
    Lhakpa Gelu, 13/4/77, Thumduk, Beni-3, Solu, Everest X3, Lhotse X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Pasang Gelu, 28/11/63, Dhimbul, Gudel-9, Solu, Everest X5, Dhaulagiri I X1, 
      Cho Oyu X1

  Tibetans:
    Bianba, 7/1/89, Karung
    Karsang, 13/1/84
    Lopchong, 1982, Tingri
    Yonten, 3/12/83


expid: EVER09145
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Peter Whittaker
sponsor: First Ascent Everest Expedition 2009
bcdate: 2009-04-09
smtdate: 2009-05-19
smttime: 0737
termdate: 2009-05-25
campsites: BC(09/04,5350m),C1(15/04,6000m),C2(23/04,6500m),C3(01/05,7240m),C4(17/05,7900m),Smt(19,23/05)
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  The expedition divided the members into two summit parties. The first one left C4 for the top at 11:05 am on the 18th. They were Griber, Moffatt, Norton, Viesturs, Whittaker and nine Sherpas: Pasang Tendi, Nima Gyalzen, Pemba Nuru, Pasang Dawa, Nawang Lhakpa, Kazi Sherpa, Mingma Dupka, Dawa Jongba and Changba Nurbu. All the members and eight Sherpas summited on 19 May between 7:37 am (Griber with Kazi) and 9:00 am (Moffatt with Nawang Lhakpa) and 10:00 am for Mingma Dukpa. Changba Nuru had turned back at the bottom of the Hillary Step because he was extremely tired from all the load carrying he had done, and retreated to C4. All the summiters also stayed in C4 that night, and all except Moffatt descended to BC the next day, the 20th; Moffatt, who had one slightly frostbitten toe, stopped in C2 on the 20th.

  The second summit party were Arnot, Hahn, Harvey, Waterfall and six Sherpas: Nga Tenji, Ang Kaji, Tshering Dorje, Kami Nuru, Nima Dorje Tamang and Ang Phurba. They left C4 at 11:30 pm on the 22nd and all of the members and five Sherpas were on the top at 6:30 am on 23 May. Ang Phurbu had turned back just above the Balcony because his feet were cold, and he went down to C2. All the others in this party also descended to C2 that day; they reached the camp at 4:00 pm. All were back in BC the next day, the 24th.

  Oxygen used by the first summit party: all the members except Viesturs used it in C3 to the top to and in C4 except Griber and Norton. Viesturs started using oxygen in C4 and kept on it until he reached C2; Griber and Norton stopped using it when they got back to C4. All Sherpas used it to their high points to and in C4.

  In the second summit party, all members and Sherpas from C3 to their high points to C2.

  Non-summiting member:

  Dohring reached about 7240m on 14 May, but did not stay in C3 and never went higher. She was not strong enough to do so. 

  Fixed rope: 600m on Lhotse Face

  Sherpas:
    Ang Kazi/Kaji, 21/8/84 (5/5/2041), Kharikhola, Jubing-1, Solu, Everest X2
    Ang Phurba, 26/8/67, Choplung, Chaurikharka-3, Cho Oyu X4, Everest X2 
      Went to Everest with an independent S Korean climber, Lee Won-Sub, who 
      abandoned his climb early and was picked up by Adventure Consultants team
      from BC
    Changba Nurbu, 1964, Tate, Chaurikharka-7, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X1, Dhaula X1
    Dawa Jongba/Jambu, 2/10/75 (6/16/2035), Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha, no 8000ers
    Kazi Sherpa, 29/5/71, Tapting-9, Solu, Everest 22/5/08
    Kami Nuru, 26/8/85 (5/10/2042), Chaurikharka, Solu, no 8000ers
    Mingma Dukpa, 15/6/80, Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1
    Nawang Lhakpa, 17/1/72 (3/10/2028), Choplung, Chaurikharka-3, Everest X3
    Nga Tenji, 28/2/80 (16/11/2036), Nurbugaon, Makalu-9, Everest X3
    Nima Dorje Tamang, aka "Kala", 8/1/80 (24/9/2036), Chitre, Bakachol-9, Khotang,
      Everest X3
    Nima Gyalzen, 31/8/86 (15/5/2043), Ghat, Chaurikharka-7, Solu, Everest X3
    Pasang Dawa, 26/5/87 (12/2/2044), Syangma, Chaurikharka-7, Solu, no 8000ers
    Pasang Tendi, 27/10/83 (10/7/2040), Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha, Everest X6
    Pemba Nuru, 17/1/77 (4/10/2033), Thamiteng, Khumbu, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X1
    Tshering Dorje, 3/3/89 (11/20/2045), Beding, Dolakha, Everest X1


expid: EVER09146
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Masaji Ochiai
sponsor: Kanagawa University Alpine Club Everest Expedition
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2009-04-17
smtdate: 2009-05-18
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2009-05-22
campsites: BC(17/04,5300m),ABC(20/04,6400m),C1(30/04,7100m),C2(16/05,7800m),C3(17/05,8300m),Smt(18/05)
accidents: Slight frostbite by Ochiai
agency: Rolwaling Trek
routememo:
  Summit team left C3 at midnight. It was windy and it was snowing. They spent 1/2 hour on summit, then descended to C3, arrived at 5 pm.

  Hizume, Nishida, Ogasawara, Sakuta and Watanabe only reached ABC. All of them were stricken by flu and diarrhea.

  Kikuchi reached C1 on 30 April, stayed 1 night, abandoned climb due to bowel problems.

  Tachikawa reached 6800m on 30 April, abandoned climb due to feeling ill (flu).

  Ochiai reached 8500m on 18 May just below 2nd Step. He felt that his feet were very cold and descended to C3, where he noticed slight frostbite on both his feet.

  Ito never intended to climb. He remained at BC as the expedition doctor.

  Sherpas:
    Wangchu Sherpa, Phurte/Thamiteng, Khumbu, 20/11/1967, Everest 2007 & 2008
    Phur Gyalzen, Thami, Khumbu, 16/4/70, Everest 2003, 2005, 2008
    Lhakpa Nuru, Pare, Khumbu, 3/10/60, Cho Oyu X2


expid: EVER09147
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Josep Pujante
sponsor: Catalan Basque Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2009-04-28
smtdate: 2009-05-18
smttime: 0345
termdate: 2009-05-23
campsites: BC(28/04,5200m),ABC(02/05,6450m),C1(09/05,7000m),C2(16/05,7900m),C3(17/05,8300m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col.

  Izquierdo and Muktu Lhakpa reached C3 on 17 May at 4:00 pm (Chinese Time); Pujante arrived three hours later. Pujante stayed in the camp while Izquierdo and Muktu Lhakpa left for the summit at 10:00 pm and were on the top at 6:00 am (03:45 NST). The summiters returned to C3 slowly, helping Antonio Pazzaglia, a climber from San Marino, and Ms. Cristina Piolini, an Italian, to descend to their tents at the camp.

  Izquierdo and Muktu Lhakpa used oxygen: Izquierdo from C2 to the top to C3, Muktu Lhakpa from C3 to the top to C3.

  Sherpa:
    Muktu Lhakpa Sherpa, 21/8/72, Tashigaon, Makalu, Everest X2, Dhaulagiri I X1, 
      Manaslu X1, K2 X1


expid: EVER09148
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Ludovic Challeat
sponsor: French Everest Expedition 2009
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2009-04-17
smtdate: 2009-05-20
smttime: 0530
termdate: 2009-05-25
campsites: BC(17/04,5200m),ABC(23/04,6400m),C1(28/04,7050m),C2(04/05,7700m),C3(19/05,8250m),Smt(20-21/05)
agency: Expes.com Treks
routememo:
  BC at CBC, IC on 22 April at 5800m.

  On 19 May Challeat, Maurel, Pemba and Pechhumbe left C3 at 10 pm for summit. Marsigny couple left C3 at 11:30 pm with Gyalzen. Challeat touched summit at 5:30 am on 20 May. He was climbing without oxygen and left summit immediately. Challeat descended to C2 at about 2 pm. Maurel, Pemba and Pechhumbe stayed on summit for about 30 minutes. All three were with oxygen. They descended to ABC around 5:30 pm. Next day Challeat arrived ABC. The Marsigny couple had to turn around from Mushroom Rock (8550m) between First and Second Steps as Mrs. Marsigny suffered from snowblindness and her husband had to help her to get down to C3 where they arrived about 10 am. Marsigny called his doctor in France who advised him to go down to lower camp and give her oxygen. The Marsigny couple had to sleep for couple of hours and descended to C2. Mrs. Marsigny recovered part of vision in C2, still on oxygen. Next day they descended to ABC. 

  On 20 May, Colletta, Nowak, Schwinte and Nima Dorje left C3 at 10 pm. Colletta reached summit at 7:30 am, stayed on summit for an hour with Nima Dorje and descended to C1 at 4 pm. Next day to ABC. Schwinte reached summit at 12:30 pm, and stayed on summit about 45 minutes. He found that his oxygen was finished. About 50m below the summit he found an almost empty bottle of oxygen and used it, that too ran out. Then he found another almost empty bottle of oxygen near Mushroom Rock, he used that till 8450m. He reached C3 at 8:30 pm. Next day to ABC. Nowak climbed about 200m and had to turn around due to malfunctioning of oxygen supply system. He reached C1 around 5 pm. 

  Saxstad started from C3 at 2 am on 21 May, without oxygen and Sherpa. He reached at 8500m at 6:30 am, stayed there for an hour enjoying nice view of Makalu. His feet started getting cold then descended to C1 at 5 pm. Next day to ABC. 

  Leyder was BC Manager; she left ABC on 6 May and left Kathmandu on 8 May. 

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Sherpa, 4/9/71, Taksindu-6, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X2, Makalu X1
    Pechhumbe, 22/9/87, Makalu-5
    Nima Dorje, 7/10/80, Makalu-5, Everest X1
    Nima Tamang, 30/07/62, Kerung-1, Manaslu X1
    Gyalzen, 24/09/77, Kagani-8, Okhaldhunga
    Mingma Gyalzen, 29/07/81, Namche
    Chhongba Chhiri, 23/5/69, Gumila, Chaurikharka-9

  Sherpa's high points:
    Pemba, Pechhumbe and Nima Dorje Sherpa summited
    Nima Tamang to 8400m
    Gyalzen to 8550m
    Mingma Gyalzen to 8250m
    Chhongba Chhiri to 8450m


expid: EVER09149
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Colombia
leaders: Jorge Roa
sponsor: Everest Colombia Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2009-04-20
smtdate: 2009-05-28
termdate: 2009-05-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7250m due to deep snow and Marulanda was very tired
campsites: BC(20/04,5200m),ABC(28/04,6400m),C1(17/05,7150m),xxx(28/05,7250m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC at CBC, IC on 27 April at 5800m.

  Marulanda had headache and lost appetite in C1 on 26 May. He used oxygen for sleeping. On 28 May Marulanda, Pinea and Temba went up to 7250m and returned to C1 due to deep snow. 

  High point for all other members and two Sherpas, Dawa and Ang Dawa, was C1. 

  Sherpas:
    Temba Sherpa, 24/11/72 (09/08/2029), Makalu-5, Everest in 2006 (north), 
      Ama Dablam in 2004[?] & 2005, Himlung
    Dawa Sherpa, 28/4/75 (15/01/2032), Makalu-5
    Ang Dawa Sherpa, 7/2/78 (25/10/2034), Makalu-5

accidents:
  Marulanda and Roa suffered from pulmonary edema in ABC on 28 April (went down to Tingri for 3 days and back to ABC); Roa again suffered from pulmonary edema in ABC and went down to Nyalam for 4 days


expid: EVER09150
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Gokul Thapa
sponsor: Everest Expedition for New Constitution & World Peace 2009
approach: Phakding->Namche->Pangboche->Pheriche
bcdate: 2009-04-28
smtdate: 2009-05-20
smttime: 0845
termdate: 2009-05-23
campsites: BC(28/04,5300m),C1(02,03/05,5800m),C2(06/05,6300m),C3(18/05,7200m),C4(19/05,7950m),Smt(20/05)
agency: True North Expedition
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 above the icefall - deposit camp did not sleep
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 at South Col.

  On 19 May Thapa, Tamang and Da Dendi left C4 at 8:30 pm for summit. The members arrived on summit between 8:45 am and 9:10 am of 20 May. Stayed on summit for about 30 minutes. The expedition had its banner on which signatures of President, Vice President, Prime Minister, Subhash Nembang leaders of 24 Political parties, 10 different religious organizations. All three members descended to C4 around 1 pm, slept there. Next day 21st to C2 and on 22nd to BC. 

  Fixed rope: contributed 200m

  Ang Dorje Sherpa high point was 7400m.

  Krishna Gopal Shrestha high point was C4; his feet started getting cold.


expid: EVER09151
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Croatia
leaders: Darko Berljak
sponsor: Croatia Female Expedition to Mt. Everest 2009
bcdate: 2009-04-07
smtdate: 2009-05-19
smttime: 0940
termdate: 2009-05-25
campsites: BC(07/04,5250m),C1(14/04,5950m),C2(20/04,6300m),C3(30/04,7150m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(19,21/05)
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  Berljak insisted that there be one Sherpa climber with each climbing member, but the expedition had enough funds to employ only five Sherpas and to provide oxygen for only five members and five Sherpas. Berljak had to decide which members had the ability to reach the summit and then give them the manpower and bottles of oxygen. As it turned out, one member was too slow to get to the top and return safely, so actually only four members got to the summit (and only three Sherpas did as one went up twice).

  The first summit party left C4 for the top at 9:30 pm on 18 May. They were Darija and Iris Bostjancic with Lhakpa Nuru and Pemba Tenzing. They reached the summit together at 9:40 am on the 19th and returned to C4 that afternoon. They descended to C2 on 20th and returned to BC on 22nd.

  The second group left C4 at 8:30 pm on the 20th. They were Sijan, Vrbek, Pasang Norbu, and from C4 Lhakpa Nuru, who had summited with the first party. Simicevic left C4 with them, but was climbing so slowly that she was told to turn back and go down to C2. So two members and two Sherpas went to the top, where they arrived at 5:00 am on the 21st. They were back in C4 at 10:00 am that morning, in C2 on the 22nd and BC on the 23rd.

  Fixed rope: contributed 200m.

  Non-summiting members:

  Berljak (expedition leader) remained in BC throughout the climb.

  Donlagic (expedition doctor) went no higher than C2.

  Durek remained in BC except for one very brief trip into the icefall. She concentrated on being responsible for the team's telecommunications.

  Durin (base camp manager) remained in BC.

  Hrscanec went to C3 on 10 May, spent a week in C2. The team's limited supply of oxygen had none for her.

  Levar also went to C3 on 10 May, but for her, too, there was no provision of oxygen.

  Mijailovic also to C3 on 10 May, went to C2, no oxgyen for her also.

  Simicevic reached 7400m on 20 May in summit push, was too slow to gain the summit, and descended to C2.

  Oxygen was used by Darija Bostjancic in C4 to the top to C4, by Iris Bostjancic from C3 to the top to C4, by Sijan, Simicevic and Vrbek from C3 to their high points to C4 by Sijan and Vrbek from C3 by Simicevic. Their Sherpas used it from C4 to the top to C4.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Nuru, 26/9/72, Yilajung, Khumbu, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X3
    Pasang Norbu, 21/12/1972?, Norbugaon, Walung, Makalu-9, Kangchenjunga X1, 
      Everest X3, Manaslu X1
    Pemba Tenjin, 2/2/76, Phurte, Khumbu, Everest X3


expid: EVER09152
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Eric Simonson
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Everest Expedition 2009
countries: Bulgaria, Canada, Czech Republic, S Africa, UK
bcdate: 2009-04-05
smtdate: 2009-05-05
smttime: 0400
termdate: 2009-05-25
campsites: BC(05/04),C1(12/04,6000m),C2(14/04,6500m),C3(25/04,7395m),C4(10/05,7900m),Smt(05/20-22)
agency: Beyul Adventure
routememo:
  The first Everest summiters of the season were two IMG Sherpas fixing rope, Mingma Tenzing and Panuru on 5 May.

  The expedition's members summited on 20, 21 and 22 May. The first lot left C4 on 19 May at 8:15 pm. They were Bergum, Carstens, Eddy, Hamill, Parazynski and Wardle. Bergum and Carstens reached the Balcony, then turned back very tired; with them were Pemba Dorje and Da Sonam respectively.

  The rest were on the top around 4:00 am on the 20th: Parazynski with Danuru, Eddy with Mingma Tshering, Hamill with Kancha Nuru (Phortse) and Wardle, a film producer, with Sanduk Dorje and Kancha Nuru (Pangboche), whose job was carrying sound equipment for the filming project. All were down in C2 late that afternoon except Hamill and Wardle, who went to C2 the next day.

  Green and Mingma Dorje left C4 for top on 20 May at 11:00 pm, were on the summit at about 7:30 am on the 21st and stayed in C4 that night.

  On the 21st, Kamen Kolchev, Petya Kolchevka, Justin Merle, Shea and Sherpas made their bid for the summit. Kamen Kolchev and his wife Petya left C4 at 9:30 pm, he with Pasang Rinji and she with Nima Karma. Merle (with no Sherpa) and Shea with Phinzo waited until midnight to move up. The party summited on the 22nd at 6:00 am to 7:00 am. All went to C4 between 9:00 am and 1:00 am and were back in BC on the 23rd.

  The expedition's health problems consisted of two members chest pains and one ribs injury (see non summiting members), plus a Sherpa cook got pneumonia and a climbing Sherpa had a stomach problem.

  Other non-summiting members:

  Audet reached C3, descended with chest pains, left BC on 8 May.

  Golden reached the South Col, left early because of crushed ribs from a fall.

  Luggar, who was on the permit for IMG's Lhotse team led by Greg Vernovage, reached BC with the Everest climbers but never got above BC. She was sick and tired, and she left in the first part of April.

  Masek got to C3 but lost motivation and left 12 May.

  Norris got to C2 but became sick and left early.

  Remington also reached C2 but lost motivation and left in late April.

  Samuel developed chest pains in C3 and left 20 May.

  Simonson stayed in BC for the duration of the climb.

  Tucker went into the Icefall with a client on 14-15 April, stayed in BC the rest of the time, not interested in joining the hordes (he had summited in 1990 with an American-Soviet-Chinese team via the North Col).

  Oxygen was used by all members in summit parties in C3 to their high points to C3 or lower. The summit party Sherpas used it in C4 to their high points to C4.

  Sherpas:
    Da Sonam/Da Sonam, 5/12/62, Pangboche, Everest X8, Cho Oyu X2
    Dawa Nuru/Danuru, 26/10/78 (9/7/2035), Phortse, Everest X10, Cho Oyu X8, 
      Manaslu X1
    Kancha Nuru, 5/12/87 (19/4/2044), Pangboche, no 8000ers
    Kancha Nuru, 30/11/82, Phortse, Everest 22/5/08
    Mingma Dorje, 21/6/65, Phortse, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1
    Mingma Tenzing, 1/6/86, Phortse, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X4
    Mingma Tshering, 26/4/72, Phortse, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X2
    Nima Karma, 30/6/83, Phortse, Everest X2
    Panuru, 22/5/68, Phortse, brother of Mingma Tshering, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X3
    Pasang Rinji, 18/1/77, Phortse, Everest X2
    Pemba Dorje, 1961 (2018), Pangboche, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X2
    Phinzo/Phinjo, 23/4/71, Phortse, Everest X4, Manaslu X1
    Samduk Dorje Tamang, 31/5/83 (17/2/2040), Pangboche, Everest X3


expid: EVER09153
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Singapore
leaders: Jane Lee
sponsor: NATAS Singapore Women's Everest Team (IMG permit)
bcdate: 2009-04-05
smtdate: 2009-05-20
smttime: 0345
termdate: 2009-05-24
campsites: BC(05/05,5350m),C1(15/04,6100m),C2(17/04,6400m),C3(29/04,7400m),C4(19/05,7600m),Smt(20,22/05)
agency: Beyul Adventure
routememo:
  NATAS Singapore Women's Everest Team, Jane Lee - 28 May 9009
  (National Association of Travel Agents Singapore)

  The expedition went to the summit in two parties. The first one consisted of three members and three Sherpas: Li Hui Lee, Jane Lee, Tan, Ang Chhiring, Panuru, and Jamling Bhote. They left C4 on 19 May: Li Hui Lee, Tan, Panuru and Jamling at 8:20 pm, Jane Lee and Ang Chhiring at 8:30 pm. Li Hui Lee and Panuru were on the summit at 3:45 am on 20 May, Tan and Jamling at 3:54 am, and Jane Lee and Ang Chhiring at 4:43 am. Tan and Jamling returned to C4 at noon and spent the night there while the others descended to C2 between 4:30 pm and 6:15 pm.

  The second summit party left C4 on 21 May: Peh Gee Lee and Danuru at 9:10 am, and Soo and Da Tenji at 9:15 pm. Soo and Da Tenji were on the top on 22 May at 5:31 am, Peh Gee Lee and Danuru at 5:54 am. Peh Gee Lee and Danuru arrived at C4 at noon and stayed there that night, the other two went down to C2 at about 5:00 pm.

  Non-summiting members:

  Lim was BC Manager, and did not go above BC.

  Sim reached C2 developed chest pains, and stayed in BC for the rest of the climb.

  Other health problems: Peh Gee Lee had an asthma attack in C4 on her return from the summit. She also had windburn on her face.

  Oxygen was used by all members in and from C3 to the summit; Li Hui Lee, Jane Lee and Tan continued using it to C3, Soo to C2, and Peh Gee Lee, who spents her summit night in C4, kept using it in and from C4 until her return to BC on 23 May (see health problems above). The Sherpas used it from C4 to the top; some used it to C4 only, others to C3.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Ang Chhiring (name in passport & citizenship certificate), generally known 
      as Kami Chhiring, 1962 (2019), Pangboche, Everest X8, Cho Oyu X3
    Da Tenji, aka Dawa Tenzing/Da Tenzing, 22/7/70 (7/4/2027), Phortse, 
      Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2
    Da Nuru, aka Danuru/Dawa Nuru, 19/5/59, Phortse, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X4, 
      Makalu X1
    Jamling Bhote, 28/12/77 (13/9/2034), Hatiya-1, Sankhu., Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2
    Panuru, aka Pa Nuru/Pasang Nuru, 22/5/68 (9/2/2025), Phortse, 
      Everest X6 to end of 2008, + 5/5/09 fixing rope on Simonson's IMG 
      expeditions (after his 5/5/09 ascent he went down to BC, spent a few 
      days at his home in the village not far away, and returned to the mountain 
      to join the Singaporean ladies), Cho Oyu X3


expid: EVER09154
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Tim Rippel
sponsor: Peak Freaks Everest Expedition 2009
countries: Germany, Israel, Mexico
bcdate: 2009-04-12
smtdate: 2009-05-20
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2009-05-23
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),C1(20/04,6100m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(03,16/05,7200m),C4(17/05,7900m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Senge Treks & Expeditions
routememo:
  When the time came for the summit push, only half of the ten-member expedition were still standing. Those five members, Keren, Lavigne, Lopez, Pflugradt and Rippel, set out from C4 between 9:00 and 9:30 pm on 19 May with nine Sherpas: Ang Namgya, Jangbu, Lhakpa Bhote, Mingmar, Ngima, Palden Namgye, Redar Lama Bhote, Sonam Finjo and Tashi Thundu. Rippel turned around at 8200m at 11:00 pm because three toes had become frostbitten; he returned to C4 at 1:00 am of the 20th while the rest of the party went to the summit. Lopez was the first of the member to reach the top, at 8:30 am, Keren was next at 9:00 am, and Lavigne and Pflugradt summited together at 10:00 am. The Sherpas were scattered amongst them.

  All were back in C4 between 4:00 and 7:00 pm. The last one to arrive was Pflugradt, who had joined in the rescue of the independent Irish climber, Martin Byrne, helping him down a steep section and then handing him on the to some IMG people.

  Other non-summiting members:

  Bernier on 17 May climbed to the Geneva Spur below C4, then ot a violent stomach "bug" and dropped down to C3 that day, BC the next day, and left the expedition on the 19th.

  Evanoff had been to Pheriche for a rest, returned to BC on 12 May. On the 14th, he got 200m above BC, found he had no energy at all, and left the expedition on the 16th.

  Moser developed a breathing problem climbing to C2 on 24 April, descended to BC that day and left the expedition on the 27th.

  Smith tore some knee ligaments climbing through the Icefall on 14 April and left the expedition on the 16th.

  Summit-team members used oxygen from C3 to high points to C3, their Sherpas in C4 to high points to & in C4.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Ang Namgyal Sherpa, 21/6/80 (8/3/2037), Phortse/Pangboche, Everest X4
    Jangbu Sherpa, 18/6/65 (4/3/2022), Bakachol-9, Khotang, Everest X4
    Lhakpa Bhote, 5/11/70 (20/7/2027), Hatiya-3, Sankhuwasabha, Everest X2
    Mingmar Sherpa, 16/4/70, Jantarkhani-9, Okhaldhunga, Everest X2
    Ngima Sherpa, 26/8/79 (10/5/2036), Tapting-1, Solu, no 8000ers
    Palden Namgye Sherpa, 26/9/72, Phortse, Khumbu, Everest X2, Lhotse X4, 
      Manaslu X1, Annapurna I X1
    Redar Lama Bhote, 19/11/86, Hatiya-3, Sankhuwasabha, no 8000ers
    Sonam Finjo Sherpa, 3/10/85 (17/6/2042), Khunde, Khumbu, no 8000ers
    Tashi Thundu Sherpa, 10/4/85, Khumjung, Khumbu, Everest X4


expid: EVER09155
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Adele Pennington
sponsor: Jagged Globe Everest Expedition 2009
countries: Slovenia, Spain, USA
bcdate: 2009-04-11
smtdate: 2009-05-19
smttime: 0717
termdate: 2009-05-24
campsites: BC(11/04,5350m),C1(20/04,6000m),C2(22/04,6500m),C3(29/04,7300m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(19-20/05)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  Jagged Globe Everest Expedition 2009, Adele Pennington - 29 May 2009

  The expedition went to the summit in two groups. In the first one, who left C4 at 9:10 pm on 18 May, were Benegas, Goodland, Robertson, Rodrigues, Waymark and Sherpas Pem Chhiring, Phurba Namgyal, Thundu, Nima Gyalzen and Nima Temba. Rodrigues and Nima Temba were about 50 meters above the Balcony (8500m) when Rodrigues contact lens suddenly popped out and now he could not see well; they retreated to C4. All the others went on up to to the top at 7:17 am on 19 May. They also went down to C4, then to C2 on the 20th and BC on the 21st.

  The second summit party consisted of Grubb, Jakofcic, Moses, Pennington, Richmond, Spalding, Taylor, plus Tashi, Lila Bahadur Basnet, Mingma Tshering, another Mingma Tshering, Thomting, Pema Tshering, and Tshering Pemba. They left C4 at 8:30 on 19 May. When Spalding and Thomting were about 200m below the Balcony at 10:30 pm, Spalding felt ill and turned back to C4 with Thomting. Taylor got to 8050m, developed a chest infection and returned to C4 with Mingma Tshering. The rest of the party arrived at the summit between 5:30 and 7:30 pm on 20th May. They joined the dropouts at C4 for the night, then all descended to C2 on the 21st and to BC on the 22nd.

  Other non-summiting memebrs:

  Browne reached C2 on 27 April and descended with other members but never went up again; he failed to acclimatize and left the expedition on 13 May.

  Craven also reached C2 on 27 April, but he was too slow and developed a chest infection; he left the team on 17 May.

  Hodge got only halfway through the Icefall on 14 April; he left the expedition on 21 April for family reasons.

  Thompson tore a muscle between his ribs from coughing very hard on 17 May; he got to C2 on the 22nd, then rested at BC till 17 May, when he had gotten only halfway through the Icefall and tore the same muscle; he returned to BC and left the team on 19th May.

  Oxygen was used by all summit party members in C3 to their high points to C3. The Sherpas used it in C4 to high points to C3.

  Sherpas:
    Lila Bahadur Basnet, 31/3/83, Lamabagar-3, Dolakha, Everest X2
    Mingma Tshering, 2/8/70, Beding, Everest X13, Cho Oyu X2, Manaslu X1, K2 X1
    Nima Gyalzen, 18/5/76, Beding, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X1, Manaslu X2
    Pem Chhiring, 17/12/83, Beding, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X2, Lhotse X1, Manaslu X1
    Pema Tshering, 14/2/80, Chanku-6, Dolakha, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1
    Phurbu Namgyal, 7/2/86, Beding, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X1
    Tashi Sherpa, 18/4/79, Beding, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1
    Thomting Sherpa, 19/12/74, Beding, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X6
    Thundu Sherpa, 18/2/78, Beding, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X2, Manaslu X1
    Tshering Pemba, 22/11/85, Beding, Everest X1, Manaslu X1


expid: EVER09156
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Alex Abramov
sponsor: Seven Summits Club Everest 2009
countries: Canada, France, Moldova, Netherlands, UK, USA
bcdate: 2009-04-15
smtdate: 2009-05-20
smttime: 0500
termdate: 2009-05-27
campsites: BC(15/04,5400m),C1(20/04,6000m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(02/05,7000m),C4(19/05,7900m),Smt(20-21/05)
accidents: Snowblindness by Cherny
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  20 May summit team left C4 at 8:30 pm on 19 May. Weather was clear but windy. Straightforward climb. Team spent 15 minutes on summit, descended to C2, arrived between 5 pm and 8 pm. On 21 May members and Sherpas descended to BC. Abramov waited for second group at C2.

  21 May summit team left C4 at 8 pm on 20 May. As they arrived at summit in dark they waited for sunlight. They descended to C2, arrived between 8 pm and 9 pm. On his way down Cherny suffered from snowblindness. He was helped down by two of Russell Brice's guides and two Sherpas from Abramov's team. The guides gave him eyedrops. He descended to C4 where he stayed the night. He was better next day and descended to C2, where rest of his team was resting. On 23 May all descended to BC.

  Burlet reached C1 on 20 April; stayed 1 night. He did not feel well and lacked mental strength. He left BC on 24 April. 

  Crellin reached C3 on 5 May, stayed 1 night, but never acclimatized well and left BC on 16 May.

  Sherpas:
    Mingma Gelu, Balakharka, Makalu 5/2/79, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X1
    Ang Dawa, Tashigaon, Makalu, 27/4/81 (15/01/2038), Everest X3
    Jangbu Sherpa, Balakharka, Makalu, 26/8/85, Everest X2
    Nima Ongdi, Balakharka, Makalu, 19/12/1979, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1
    Peme Sherpa, Tashigaon, Makalu, 21/9/65, Everest X3
    Na Dorje, Makalu-9, 19/12/75
    Rinjen Sherpa, Balakharka, Makalu, 1/2/73, Everest X4
    Pemba Nurbu, Tashigaon, Makalu, 28/2/80, Everest X2
    Pemba Tenzing, Thamo, Khumbu, 23/8/1976, Everest X4
    Karma Sherpa, Balakharka, Makalu, 20/8/86 (4/5/2043), no 8000ers


expid: EVER09157
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Vernon Tejas
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Everest Expedition 2009
countries: Canada, France, New Zealand, Panama
bcdate: 2009-04-15
smtdate: 2009-05-05
smttime: 0740
termdate: 2009-05-26
campsites: BC(15/04,5350m),C1(23/04,6035m),C2(25/04,6500m),C3(04/05,7300m),C4(21/05,7400m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  The big summit party left C4 for the top in two groups at 10:05 and 11:00 pm on 22 May. They were Slachman, Du Puy, LeClaire, Madison, Horst, Geist, Boyer, Schneider, Herschke, Coney, Morales, Tiensch, Justman and Hutchinson, plus Sherpas Lhakpa Rita, Chuwang Nima, Tshering Dorje, Mingma Chhiri, Phura Kancha, Dawa Nuru, Dawa Tshering, Pasang Sona, Kami Rita (for the second time this month, after having been to the top on 5 May fixing rope), and Pasang Rita.

  Tiensch, Hutchinson and Justman turned back at the South Summit at 7:30 am on 23rd. Tiensch had become completely snowblind, Hutchinson was exhausted, and Justman escorted them down to C4, where they spent that night.

  All the others summited. The first on top were Le Claire (in her fourth attempt) and Lhakpa Rita at 7:40 am on 23 May. The last was Horst at 8:05 am. All descended to C4 that day, to C2 on the 24th and BC on the 25th.

  Other non-summiting members:

  Guisinde reached C3, got severe frostnip in his fingers and left the expedition on 7 May.

  Iscoe got to C3 and developed pulmonary edema on 5 May; he was on oxygen as he descended from C3 to BC until he was evacuated from BC on 7 May.

  Setian reached 6700m on 6 May but was not strong enough to continue. She left the team on 8 May.

  Oxygen was used by all members in the summit party in C3 to their high points to C2. All summit party Sherpas used it in C4 the top to and in C4.

  Sherpas:
    Chuwang Nima, aka Chewang Nima, 20/8/67, Tesho, Everest X15, Cho Oyu X2
    Dawa Nuru, 25/11/64, Thami, Everest 24/5/08
    Dawa Tshering, aka Dawa Chhiri/Tsheri, 19/11/66, Thami, Everest X8, Cho Oyu X3
    Kami Rita, aka Topke, 17/1/70, Thami, Everest X12, Cho Oyu X2
      (on 5 May 2009 and on 23 May 2009 again from BC)
    Lhakpa Rita, 9/9/66, Thami (but lives in Seattle), Everest X11, Cho Oyu X6
    Mingma Chhiri/Chhiring, 22/7/68, Thami, Phura Kancha's brother, Everest X10
    Pasang Rita, aka Pa Rita, 12/7/74, Yilajung, Namche-9, Everest X2
    Pasang Sona, aka Ang Sona, 21/7/77, Thami Og, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X1
    Phura Kancha, aka Fura Kancha, 17/1/1977, Thami, Mingma Chhiring's brother, 
      Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1
    Tshering Dorje, 20/7/70, Kharikhola, Everest X10, Cho Oyu X4, K2 X1


expid: EVER09158
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: SW Face (up); SE Ridge-S Col (down)
nation: S Korea
leaders: Park Young-Seok
sponsor: 2009 Park's Everest Southwest Face Expedition
bcdate: 2009-03-29
smtdate: 2009-05-20
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2009-05-23
accidents: Lee's chest infection
agency: NE-KO Treks
campsites:
  BC(29/03,5350m),C1(18/04,6050m),C2(18/04,6500m),C3(24/04,7350m),C4(28/04,7800m),C5(18/05,8350m),Smt(20/05)

routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on SW Face
  C4 on SW Face
  C5 just below W Ridge.

  Following his team's failure to summit Everest via the SW Face two years ago, Park was now back to try again, and this time was successful. The Koreans line of ascent on the face had never been successfully climbed to the top; it was new line to the left of that of the Soviet expedition of spring 1982, but Park's C5 site was the same as that of the 1982 team: the Koreans found Soviet oxygen bottles there.

  The Koreans began their climb on 18 April, when all five members moved up from BC. Jin, Kang, and Park established C1, while Lee, Shin, four Sherpas and a cook carried on up and established C2 in the Western Cwm.

  Lee and Shin went back to BC on the 19th. Kang and two Sherpas went up to C2 on the 19th, and on the 20th went up onto the SW Face making the route to 7000m before returning to C2 to spend the night.

  On the 21st two Sherpas carried gear to 7000m. On the 22nd and 23rd all members rested in C2.

  Then on the 24th Jin, Park and two Sherpas made the route to 7350m on the face, pitched C3 there and spent the night in the camp.

  On the 25th Jin and Park fixed rope to 7700m, then descended to C2. Kang and three Sherpas went to C3 and slept there.

  On the 26th everybody rested. But on the 27th of April, Kang and two Sherpas made the route to 7800m and pitched C4 there. On the same day, Lee and Shin moved up to C3; they went up to C4 on the 28th and slept there, while two Sherpas brought loads from C2 to C4 and stayed there also.

  On the 29th Shin and two Sherpas made the route to C5, then descended to C2.

  On the 30th everybody was down in BC to rest. Lee, who had a chest infection did not go up again, but on 6 May all the other members and four Sherpas returned to C2. They stayed there on the 7th because it was very windy.

  On 8 May, Shin and two Sherpas moved up to C4. On the next day Jim, Kang and Park joined them in C4 and Shin climbed towards C5, but strong wind forced all members and Sherpas to retreat to BC later that day.

  The wind plus snowfall kept the team pinned down in BC from the 10th to the 14th, but finally they began to move up once again on the 15th, when Kang, Shin and four Sherpas reoccupied C2. On the 16th Jin and Park went up to C2 while two Sherpas carried loads from C2 to C4.

  On the 17th Kang, Shin and one Sherpa went from C2 to C4, and Jin and Park climbed from C2 to C3.

  On the 18th Shin and one Sherpa established C5 and slept there; Kang stayed in C4; Jin and Park went up from C3 to C4 and stayed there.

  On the 19th Shin fixed 25m of rope up from C5 and returned to the camp. Jin, Kang and Park moved up from C4 to C5. All the Sherpas descended to C2.

  The four members, Jin, Kang, Park and Shin left C5 for the top at 0:30 hours on 20 May. They fixed 500m of rope to 8600m and all were on the summit together at 3:00 pm. They descended via the SE Ridge to the South Col, where they arrived at 7:55 pm and stayed in two C4 tents belonging to another Korean team led by Joo Jung-Soo.

  Park's group returned to their own C2 at 11:00 am on the 21st, and were back in BC the next day.

  The only health problem amongst the climbers was Lee's chest infection, which he developed at the end of April. He stayed in BC from 30 April to the end of the climb.

  All climbers who reached C4 used oxygen in the camp, above it, to and in C4. Summiters used it in C4 to the top and down to the South Col.


expid: EVER09159
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Col. Mangal Murti Masur
sponsor: Nehru Institute of Mountaineering Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2009-04-19
smtdate: 2009-05-21
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2009-05-26
campsites: BC(19/04),C1(28/04,6050m),C2(05/05,6400m),C3(19/05,7200m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  The summit party left C4 at 8:00 pm on 20 May. They were ten members and seven Sherpas: Bisht, Bodh, Burathoki, Dharmshaktu, Gusain, Panwar, Rana, Dashrath Rawat, Dinesh Rawat, Semwal, plus seven Sherpas: Pasang Karma, Pasang Kami, Kami Chhiri, Pema Dorje, Phur Temba, Karma Gyalzen and Mingma Dorje. All of them reached the summit between 6:00 and 6:30 am on the 21st, and all returned to C4 to stay that night, to C2 on the 22nd and to BC on 23rd.

  The only health problems was Bisa's serious stomach problem, which developed when he reached C3 on 5 May. He was evacuated from BC by helicopter on the 8th.

  Other non-summiting members:

  Ghosh reached C3 site on 6 May and down to C2, and on the 7th to BC with others in an acclimatization climb. He never went back up again: he was not strong enough, and remained in BC.

  Kumar was same as Ghosh.

  Lalrintluanga went to C4 on the 20th, was very tired, and stayed in camp, descended with the summiters.

  Masur like Ghosh and Kumar, he reached C3 site on 6 May and on 7th descended from C2 to BC to remain there.

  Miss Meena Panwar was confined to BC because she was not on the 15-member climbing permit.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Kami Chhiri, 29/8/82 (13/5/2039), Kharikhola, Everest 21/5/08
    Karma Gyalzen, 4/9/83 (19/5/2040), Kharikhola, Everest 21/5/08
    Mingmar Dorje, Gudel, Solu
    Pasang Kami, Pangkoma, Jubing-8, Solu
    Pasang Karma, Paiya, Jubing-7, Solu
    Pema Dorje, Sibuje, Waku-4, Solu
    Phur Temba, Sibuje, Waku-4, Solu


expid: EVER09163
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Cesar Perez de Tudela
sponsor: Perez de Tudela Everest Expedition 2009
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2009-04-19
smtdate: 2009-05-18
termdate: 2009-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due deep snow, strong wind and the death of Czech climber Chrzaszcz
campsites: BC(19/04,5200m),ABC(30/04,6500m),C1(17/05,7200m),xxx(18/05,7400m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC on 20 April. Both father and son went down to Zhangmu on 21 April, arrived Kathmandu on 22 April. Cesar Perez de Tudela left Kathmandu for Spain on 24 April and Bruno to Zhangmu. He arrived back in BC on 26 April.

  Bruno Perez de Tudela and Ritemba left C1 on 18 May for higher camp on their summit bid. But due to deep snow and strong wind they had to turn around from 7400m to C1. Bruno was very upset about the death of Czech climber Chrzascz and decided to give up further attempts to summit.

  Sherpa:
   Ritemba Sherpa, 8/5/70 (25/01/2027), Yaphu-9

accidents:
  Cesar Perez de Tudela suffered from cardiac problem in BC on 20 April; both father & son went down to Zhangmu


expid: EVER09165
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Luc Poirier
sponsor: One Canadian on Everest
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2009-04-22
smtdate: 2009-05-07
termdate: 2009-05-28
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to deep snow and strong wind
campsites: BC(22/04,5200m),ABC(28/04,6200m),C1(06/05,7100m),xxx(07/05,7800m)
agency: Mountain Tribes Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC, IC on 27 April about 5700m
  High point at C2.

  Poirier plan was to go to summit on 24 May. But there was lots of snow, so it was not possible for him to continue climbing. There was snowfall about one and half meters on 27 May.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Sherpa


expid: EVER09166
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Christopher Guest
sponsor: 2009 Canadian Mount Evereset Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2009-04-28
smtdate: 2009-05-22
smttime: 0525
termdate: 2009-05-24
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (both members)
campsites: BC(28/04,5200m),ABC(02/05,6400m),C1(07/05,7035m),C2(20/05,7700m),C3(21/05,8300m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Guest, Dawa Phinjo and Phu Tashi left C3 at 9 pm on 21 May, reached summit at 5:25 am on 22 May, stayed on summit maximum for 15 minutes, descended to C2 where they reached at 6 pm, slept there. Next day to ABC. On way down to C2, a big storm started. 

  Wyatt wanted to go to C2 on 27 May, when he reached halfway storm started picking up; besides the fixed line was all buried under heavy snow. His Sherpa Phurba Ridar and Serbian climbers did not feel safe to continue further up and descended to C1. Next day to ABC. 

  Guest returned to Kathmandu on 26 and will leave on 28 May. Wyatt returned to Kathmandu with Serbians on 4 June.

  Sherpas:
    Phurba Ridar Bhote, Chepuwa-4, Makalu, 1958, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X2, K2 X1
    Dawa Phinjo Lama Bhote, Hatiya-2, Makalu, 5/9/88, Everest X3
    Phu Tashi Sherpa, Pangboche, Khumbu, 17/11/72, Everest X9, Cho Oyu X3


expid: EVER09167
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Serbia
leaders: Dragan Jacimovic
sponsor: Extreme Summit Team on Everest
countries: Bosnia-Herzegovina, Croatia, Italy, Montenegro, Slovenia
bcdate: 2009-04-21
smtdate: 2009-05-27
termdate: 2009-06-02
termnote: Abandoned at 7750m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(21/04,5200m),ABC(25/04,6400m),C1(07/05,7150m),xxx(27/05,7750m)
accidents: One Sherpa slight frostbite; Jovovic broken knee
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  The expedition had only one camp above ABC because of frequent bad weather and they made just one bid to get to the summit.

  All members except Bucic, Dicic and Jovovic, plus all ten of their Sherpas, left C1 at 7150m to try to go to the summit at 12 o'clock noon (Chinese time) on 27 May. They made a late start because earlier the wind was very strong; the weather forecast they received from Switzerland predicted that the wind would drop in the afternoon. However it got stronger and stronger, reaching 80 km/hr, when they had gained only 600m in altitude, and they were driven back to C1 at 7:00 pm.

  They remained in C1 on the 28th. Jacimovic decided that evening to abandon the climb. They retreaed to ABC on the 29th while the wind was still strong and snow had begun falling. One meter of snow fell from the 28th to 30th, so the fixed ropes were covered and difficult to dig out. Their time was running out. They arrived in BC on the 30th and left it on 2 June.

  Oxygen was used by all members in the summit bid from C1 to their high point 7750m, and back to C1. Their Sherpas used none.

  Non-summiting members

  Bucic reached North Col but did not stay there on 21 May and returned to ABC. She was not strong enough to continue.

  Dicic followed the same pattern as Bucic.

  Jovovic got no higher than ABC. On 29 April, while climbing on the moraine between ABC and BC, he fell and broke his knee. He left the expedition on the 30th.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Gelu, 28/4/86 (15/1/2043), Phedi-9, Khotang, no 8000ers
    Chheten Dorje, 28/5/87, Pangboche, Everest X1
    Lhakpa, 24/8/66, Makalu-2, Everest X1
    Lhakpa Chhiri, aka Sonam Gyalzen, 17/11/74, Pangboche, Everest X5, K2 X1
    Mingma Nuru, 20/12/75, Thami, Everest X2
    Nima Tamang, 1979, Pangboche, Everest X1
    Nima Thundu, 20/4/80, Pangboche, Everest X1
    Nurbu Bhote Lama, 29/5/81, Hatiya-1, Makalu, Everest X2
    Thendorje, 22/4/83, Pangboche, Everest X5, Manaslu X1


expid: EVER09168
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Everest Expedition 2009
countries: Belgium, France, Germany, Ireland, Japan, Mexico, Norway, S Africa, UK, USA
bcdate: 2009-04-07
smtdate: 2009-05-05
smttime: 1238
termdate: 2009-05-27
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East to acclimatize twice; climbed Lhotse on 22 May
campsites: BC(07/04,5700m),C1(29/04,6057m),C2(151/04,6493m),C3(02/05,7249m),C4(04/05,7000m),Smt(05/21-23)
achievment: Reached C3 on 1 May during acclimatization climb
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  The members of this huge expedition went to the summit of Everest on three dates: one member with four Sherpas fixing rope to the top on 5 May, 12 members and 11 Sherpas on the 21st, and 15 members and 13 Sherpas on the 23rd. In addition, one member and one Sherpa summited Lhotse on the 22nd.

  The first Everest group, Tait with Phurba Tashi, Dorje Sonam Gyalzen and Nima Tshering, left C4 0:06 on 5 May and fixed rope as they slowly made their way to the summit, where they finally arrived together at 12:38 pm. Tait descended to C3, the Sherpas to C2.

  The second Everest summit left C4 at 11:40 pm on 20 May and reached the summit on 21 May as follows: 

  Member        Sherpa with this member    Summit time

  Ballinger       (none)                    5:45 am
  Bierling        Pasang Kami               9:50 am
  Black           Pasang Nima               7:33 am
  Dovell          Phurba Tashi              5:45 am
  Fox             Tashi Tshering ('77)      8:50 am
  Hutson          (none)                    8:50 am
  Jones           Son Dorje                 7:40 am
  Massimo         Nuru Gyalzen ('90)        7:30 am
  Nava Falcon     Tashi Tshering ('90)      7:18 am
  Qui             Nima                      8:50 am
  Rambol          Shera Gyalzen             8:55 am
  Staples         Karsang Namgel            9:37 am

  (For Phurba Tashi his ascent on 21 May was his second ascent this month, after having fixed rope to the top on 5 May).

  Most of the members stopped in C4 on their descent; Ballinger, Dovell and Jones continued down to C2. Their Sherpas went with them to C4 or C2. All were in BC on the 23rd.

  The final Everest summit group left C4 at 1:00 am on 23 May, and they too arrived at the top at different times:

  Member        Sherpa with this member    Summit time

  Boulanger       Ang Karma                 9:08 am
  Delehany        Lakpa Nuru                9:44 am
  Kojetin         Lhakpa Nuru               9:27 am
  Kuraoka         (none)                    7:20 am
  Macklin         Tshering Tashi            9:22 am
  McKinley        (none)                    9:22 am
  Parker          Pemba Nuru                9:41 am
  Robinson        Nima Tenzing              9:31 am
  Saito           Kami Chhiring ('86)       9:27 am
  Takiguchi       Ang Tshiring              9:27 am
  Tamura          Kami Chhiring ('87)       9:22 am
  Turner          Dorje Sonam Gyalzen       7:20 am
  Whetu           (none)                    9:44 am
                  Rita Dorji                9:44 am
                  Dawa Temba                9:44 am
  Woodward        Nima Tenjing              9:22 am
  Yoshida         Nima Sona                 8:30 am

  For Dorje Sonam Gyalzen, this was his second ascent this month after having fixed rope to the top on 5 May.

  All of these summiters stayed in C4 that night and were back in BC on the 25th.
   
  Meanwhile, Ms. Ellen Miller and Nima Tshering had summited Lhotse on 22 May. 

  Non-summiting Everest members:

  Brice remained in BC throughout the climb.

  Carder climbed to the South Summit on 21 May, then retreated to C4. He was deaf in both ears and thought it was prudent to go down. His Sherpa, Kami Chhiring (Khumjung), retreated with him.

  Constant went up to C2 on 15 April and down to BC. He had a bad dream and did not want to go through the Icefall again. He left the expedition about 18 April.

  Hansen went to C1 on 2 May and went down to BC. He left the expedition about 4 May because he did not want to go through the Icefall again.

  Hjertenes arrived at BC before the team went up the mountain; he went to Lobuche summit camp as part of the expedition's acclimatization program, but he eid not acclimatize well. He did not go above Everest BC and left on 30 April.

  Holliday went to C3 on 1 May. He got stomach trouble, perhaps because he was nervous. He went to C2 later but not to C3 again, and he left the expedition on 27 May.

  Jacobsen followed exactly the same pattern as Hjertenes.

  Stern got to C2 on 15 April and down to BC. He did not want to go through the Icefall and left about 18 April.

  Vandaele went as high as C2 on 15 April. He couldn't acclimatize well; he got to C1 again but decided to quit and left the team on 8 or 9 May.

  Oxygen was used by all members from C3 to their high points to and in C3. The Sherpas used it in C4 to their high points to and in C4.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Karma, 19/11/64, Phortse, no 8000ers
    Ang Chhiring/Tshering, 1952, Phortse, Everest X1
    Dawa Temba, 1/1/58, Tesho, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Dorje Sonam Gyalzen, 24/5/81, Phortse, Everest X9, Cho Oyu X1, Manaslu X1
    Kami Chhiring, 7/3/87, Khumjung, no 8000ers
    Kami Chhiring, 30/8/86, Khunde, no 8000ers
    Karsang Namgel, 24/8/79, Thami, Everest X8, Cho Oyu X7
    Lakpa Nuru, 1962, Khumjung/Phortse, Everest X2, Manaslu X1
    Lhakpa Nuru, 18/6/80, Phortse, Everest X4
    Nima, 29/5/89 (16/2/2042), Khunde, no 8000ers
    Ngima Sona, 18/9/70 (2/6/2027), Phortse, no 8000ers
    Nima Tenzing, 26/4/91 (13/1/2048), Phortse, no 8000ers
    Nima Tenzing/Tenjing, 16/4/88, Khumjung, Everest X2
    Nima Tshering, 7/3/84 (24/11/2041), Khunde, no 8000ers
    Nima Tshering, 22/4/72, Phortse, Everest X2
    Nuru Gyalzen, 1/8/73, Phortse, Everest X3
    Pasang Kami, 26/7/79, Phortse, Everest X1, Manaslu X1
    Pasang Nima, 1/10/92 (15/6/2049), Phortse, no 8000ers
    Pemba Nuru, 27/11/80 (12/8/2037), Khumjung, no 8000ers
    Phurba Tashi, 24/5/71, Khumjung, Everest X13, Cho Oyu X5, Manaslu X1
    Rita Dorje, 24/10/77, Phortse, Everest X4
    Shera Gyalzen, 25/9/87 (9/6/2044), no 8000ers
    Son Dorje, 22/5/63, Phortse, Everest X7, Manaslu X1
    Tashi Tshering, 30/4/80, Khunde, no 8000ers
    Tashi Tshering, 8/5/90 (25/1/2047), Khumjung, no 8000ers
    Tashi Tshering, 26/4/77, Khumjung, no 8000ers
    Tshering Tashi, 30/4/80, Khumjung, Everest X1


expid: EVER09169
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Henry Todd, Kenton Cool
sponsor: ICE 8000 Everest Expedition 2009
countries: Hungary, Mexico, USA
bcdate: 2009-04-14
smtdate: 2009-05-21
smttime: 0430
termdate: 2009-05-23
campsites: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(19/04,6000m),C2(24/04,6300m),C3(09/05,7200m),C4(19/05,7950m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Contreras, Cool, Fiennes, Gonzalez, Kobold and Ugyan, plus seven Sherpas reached the summit on 21 May. Fiennes, who had arrived at C4 on the 19th, left for the summit at 8:00 pm on the 20th; all the other successful members left between 9:10 and 9:30 pm. Fiennes was the first member to the top at 5:00 am; and Cool, Kobold and Ugyan summited at 5:50 am. It was a cold and windy day. All were back in C4 by 11:40 am, and Contreras, Gonzalez and Fiennes continued down to C2 that day, while the other member stayed in C4 for the night. All were in BC on the 22nd and left the next day.

  Oxygen was used as follows: Fiennes started on it at BC, Cool and Kobold from C3 and Contreras, Gonzalez, Ugyan and the Sherpas from C4. In their descents, Contreras and Gonzalez used it to C2, Kobold down to the bottom of Lhotse's West Face (about 6800m), and the Sherpas to C4.

  Non-summiting members: 

  Piper reached the bottom of the Lhotse Face; he left the mountain about 12 May.

  Todd went to C2.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Chewang Dorje, 17/4/81, Pangboche, Everest X2
    Chhyang Jyalbu Bhote, 29/10/75 (12/7/2036), Hatiya-1, Sankhuwasabha, no 8000ers
    Dorje Gyalzen, 16/7/82 (1/4/2039), Pangboche, Everest X3, Manaslu X1
    Lhakpa Tundu, 20/5/70, Pangboche, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X1, Annapurna I X1
    Lhakpa Wangchu, 23/10/86 (6/7/2043),  Pangboche, Everest X3, Manaslu X1
    Pasang Dawa, aka Pa Dawa, 18/1/77 (5/10/2033), Pangboche, Everest X10
    Tshering Namgyal, 14/5/84 (1/2/2041), Pangboche, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X1


expid: EVER09170
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: San Marino
leaders: Antonio Pazzaglia
sponsor: San Marino Everest 2009
countries: Italy
bcdate: 2009-04-28
smtdate: 2009-05-18
smttime: 2145
termdate: 2009-05-23
campsites: BC(28/04,5200m),ABC(02/05,6450m),C1(09/05,7000m),C2(16/05,7900m),C3(17/05,8300m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  San Marino Everest 2009, Antonio Pazzaglia - 24 May 2009 

  The final push to the summit was made by Piolini and Antonio and Roberto Pazzaglia, who had established C3 on 17 May. (The three plus Perissinosti had made C2 the day before; Perissinosti was cold and very tired, so he went no higher.) The summit party left C3 at 11:00 pm (Chinese time) on the 17th, and Roberto Pazzaglia was on the top at 1:00 pm (10:45 NST) on 18 May. He descended to C2 at 11:00 pm and arrived in ABC at 1:00 pm on the 19th.

  Antonio Pazzaglia and Piolini were forced to turn back because tiny pieces of ice got inside their eye sockets and made them temporarily blind. Antonio gave up at 8650m and Piolini at 8700m. They were helped to return to their tents at C3 by Victor Izquierdo and Muktu Lhakpa, two descending summiters from a Spanish team led by Josep Pujante.

  Pazzaglia's eyesight was better by the time he got to C3, but his toes were slightly frostbitten. However, Piolini had to be short-roped by Muktu Lhakpa to C3 for that night, to C2 for the next night and to ABC for the third night. Nine of Piolini's toes became more seriously frostbitten as she descended the mountain slowly, slowly.

  All three summit-party members used oxygen. Roberto Pazzaglia used it from 8000m to the top; Piolini used it in C3 to 8700m; and Antonio Pazzaglia used it from 8000m to 8650m and down to C2 at 7900m.


expid: EVER09171
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Junita Sambahamphe
sponsor: Nepalese on Everest
approach: Phakding->Namche->Tengboche->Pangboche->Pheriche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2009-04-18
smtdate: 2009-05-19
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2009-05-25
campsites: BC(18/04,5400m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(17/05,7200m),C4(18/05,9750m),Smt(19/05)
accidents: Sambahamphe had problem in her leg while going to South Col (cold feet)
achievment: 1st female from Limbu community
agency: World Summit Explorer
routememo:
  Sambhahamphe, Pemba Rita, Da Chiri left C4 at 9 pm on 18 May, reached summit at 10:30 am on 19 May, stayed on summit between 15-20 minutes, descended to C4 at 6 pm, slept there. On 20 May descended to C2 slept there. On 21 May to BC. On 25 May she arrived Pheriche and on 26 May to Kathmandu by helicopter.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Rita Sherpa, 31/8/79 (15/05/2036), Beding, Everest X3
    Dawa Chhiri, 1/10/75 (15/4/2028), Jayaku-2, Dolakha


expid: EVER09172
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Steve Lem
sponsor: LEM on Everest
approach: Phakding->Namche->Pheriche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2009-04-20
smtdate: 2009-05-19
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2009-05-26
campsites: BC(20/04,5120m),C1(28/04,6000m),C2(29/04,6400m),C3(17/05,7000m),C4(18/05,7920m),Smt(19/05)
achievment: Steve Lem completed Seven Summits
agency: World Summit Explorer
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 above Khumbu Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 at South Col

  Lem, Pemba Dorje, Nima Gyalzen, Phurba Tenzing left C4 at 10 pm on 18 May. They reached summit at 10 am on 19 May. spent an hour on summit. Pemba Dorje and his brother brought one half-foot Golden statue of Buddha; to fix the statue on the summit took long time. Ahead of Lem team there were about 20 climbers on the summit. Behind them were 10-15 climbers. The team descended to C4 at 4 pm, slept there. Slept in C2 on 20 May and on 21 to BC. Summit day weather was good. Little wind but cold. While ascending Lem had to wait about 20 minutes below Balcony. Worst wait was just below the South Summit. The climbers ahead of Lem's team were very slow. Also had to wait about 15 minutes before Hillary Step.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Dorje, 27/4/77 (15/01/2034), Beding, Speed claim on Everest, Everest X6, 
      Lhotse X1, Manaslu X1
    Nima Gyalzen, 9/8/85 (25/04/2042), Beding, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1
    Phurba Tenzing, 23/5/88 (10/02/2045), Beding, Everest 22/5/08


expid: EVER09173
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Joo Jung-Soo
sponsor: Incheon 2009 Everest & Lhotse Expedition
approach: Lukla->Phakding->Namche->Tengboche->Pheriche->Lobuche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2009-03-30
smtdate: 2009-05-19
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2009-05-23
othersmts: Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-091-12)
campsites: BC(30/03,5400m),C1(18/04,6200m),C2(26/04,6500m),C3(30/04,7225m),C4(17/05,7950m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal
routememo:
  Kim Dong-Eon, Kim Jong-Ho, Lee Kang-Mok, Park, Whang, Tashi, Karma, Sanu, Wongchu, Nima Chhiring started their summit between 8 am-8:30 am on 19 May. First ones to reach summit were Kim Dong-Eon and Karma at 8 am and last ones were Kim Jong-Ho and Sanu. They stayed on summit for 30 minutes. The team descended to C4 between 4pm to 4:30 pm. Kim Dong-Eon and Karma went down to C2 where they reached at 7 pm. Rest of the members and Sherpas slept at C4. The team at C4 descended to C2 following day. Next day for BC. Kim Dong-Bon and Karma reached BC on 20 May. The summit day weather was very good little windy. There were two Russian climbers ahead of the Korean team and behind them were lots of other climbers. 

  Climbing leader An went up to midway between C3 and C4 and turned back to C3 due to tiredness.

  Lee Mahn-Woo went up to C1 which was enough for him. 

  Another member Cheon who was suppose to attempt on Lhotse and Everest could not join the expedition due to his accident in Korea.

  Fixed rope: 200m ropes contributed, snow bars, ice screws, oxygen also.

  Sherpas:
    Sanu Sherpa 30/4/75 (17/1/2032), Makalu-9, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X2, Lhotse X1
    Tashi Sherpa, (19/8/2034), Cheremy, Bung-9, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1
    Karma Gyalzen, (21/10/2032), Bung-9, Everest 22/5/08 with Nepali Women's Exp
    Wongchukal, 19/1/80 (5/10/2036), Yamakani, Olangchunggola-9
    Nima Chhiri, 30/4/77 (18/1/2034), Gudel-4, Everest X4


expid: EVER09174
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Alexandre Pare
sponsor: Mad Frogs Everest Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2009-04-19
smtdate: 2009-05-21
termdate: 2009-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 8600m due to exhaustion, lateness, oxygen supply system malfunction
campsites: BC(19/04,5200m),ABC(26/04,6400m),C1(03/05,7000m),C2(19/05,7800m),C3(20/05,8300m),xxx(21/05,8600m)
accidents: Octeau suffered from bronchitis (broken ribs)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Pare started from C3 at 1 am (NST) on 21 May. He reached bottom of 2nd Step (8600m) at 7:30 am. He was exhausted and the oxygen supply system did not work properly. Then he decided to turn around, he reached C3 at 11:30 am. Wind storm started. Pare continued descending and reached C1 at 7:30 pm. On 23 May to ABC. 

  Octeau went up to C1 (7000m) on 3 May; he was sick all the time, suffered from bronchitis. 

  Roy's high point was 7300m.


expid: EVER09175
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Sergio Martini
sponsor: Italian on Everest
approach: Standard
smtdate: 2009-05-21
smttime: 0600
campsites: C3(19/05,7200m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Martini's Sherpa Tshering said that they left BC on 18 May. Spent night at C2, on 19 May at C3, on 20 May South Col. Martini told me he and Sherpa left C4 at 11 pm. On 20 May and reached summit at 6 am. 22 May Martini did not like to continue our conversation and he left. Tshering said that they descended to C4 then to C2 on 21 May. On 22 May arrived BC. 

  Sherpa:
    Tshering Tashi Sherpa, 7/12/85 (22/08/2042), Khumjung-8, Everest X2


expid: EVER09176
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Darek Wylezol
sponsor: Wylezol to Everest
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2009-04-19
smtdate: 2009-05-21
termdate: 2009-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 8450m due to exhaustion
campsites: BC(19/04,5200m),ABC(28/04,6400m),C1(08/05,7035m),C2(20/05,7700m),C3(21/05,8300m),xxx(21/05,8450m)
agency: Himalayan Sherpa Adventure
routememo:
  Wylezol and Nima Dorje started their summit bid on 21 May at 9 pm. Wylezol was exhausted when he reached at 8450m, then decided to turn around. They reached C3 at 00:30 am on 22 May, slept there and descended to ABC on 22 May. 

  Sherpa:
   Nima Dorje Sherpa, aka "Boka Lama", Walung-9, Makalu, 1967, Everest X3


expid: EVER09177
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Cho Young-Jay
sponsor: American on Everest
approach: Phakding->Namche->Tengboche->Dingboche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2009-04-15
smtdate: 2009-05-20
termdate: 2009-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to lateness of the day and cloudy weather
campsites: BC(15/04,5400m),C2(22/04,6400m),C3(29/04,7300m),C4(19/05,8000m),xxx(20/05,8200-8300m)
agency: NE-KO Treks
routememo:
  Cho came to Everest to see his friend Park Young-Seok summiting from SW Face. Cho left C4 at 2 pm on 20 May. It was cloudy. He climbed alone about 3 hours, it was still cloudy and getting dark. He came to know that Park team summited and he descended to C4. After 30-40 minutes later he saw that Park's team coming to C4. Cho came down to C2 on 21 with Park's team, slept there. On 22 May Cho reached BC with Park. Cho returned to Kathmandu on 24 May and will leave probably on 1 June. 

  Cho is planning to come to climb Makalu then Everest & Lhotse next year or year after in Spring.


expid: EVER09178
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Michel Niemeier
sponsor: International Adventure Alternative (Igor Komarov Everest)
approach: Namche->Thami->Gokyo->Ringi Pass->Lobuche
bcdate: 2009-03-12
smtdate: 2009-05-07
termdate: 2009-05-09
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to physical weakness
campsites: BC(12/03,5300m),C2(23/04,6300m),xxx(07/05,7000m)
agency: Himalayan Windhorse Adventure
routememo:
  In his email Niemeier also wrote that (he) realized that physical forces would not permit him to attempt for summit. 

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Rita Sherpa, 1/7/77 (17/03/2034), Thamo, Khumbu, Everest X4


expid: EVER09179
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Roman Poloch
sponsor: Czech Everest Expedition 2009
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2009-04-19
smtdate: 2009-05-20
termdate: 2009-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 8635m due to bad weather, exhaustion, death of climber
campsites: BC(19/04,5200m),ABC(24/04,6350m),C1(27/04,7000m),C2(18/05,7700m),C3(19/05,8200m),xxx(20/05,8635m)
accidents: Chrzascz died on 18 May between 7-7:30 pm at C1
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  The team consisting of Novotny, Palacky and Poloch started its summit push on 19 May from C2. When they reached at 7800m, Poloch was very slow and ran out of energy. It was not possible for him to continue. Then he went back to C2 with Palacky. Novotny continued his climb and reached C3 at 5 pm. He had rest and food then started again at 10 pm. When he arrived at 8635m at about 7 am of 20 May, snowstorm started picking up that forced Novotny to go down and together with Palacky and Poloch who were waiting at C2 descended to ABC at 9 pm very exhausted.

  Pegrimek's high point was C1. He was with Chrzaszcz when he died at C1 presumably by heart attack on 18 May between 7-7:30 pm. Chrzaszcz's body was buried near C1 after consultation with his family.

  The team used a Tibetan porter named Lobsang till C2.

  Machovec and Uhlar did not go to Everest. They left Kathmandu on 11 April, same day as other members went to the border.


expid: EVER09164
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Frank Ziebarth
sponsor: German on Everest
bcdate: 2009-04-19
smtdate: 2009-05-21
smttime: 1200
campsites: BC(19/04,5300m),ABC(26/04,6400m),C1(27/04,7000m),C2(19/05,7800m),C3(20/05,8300m),Smt(21/05)
accidents: Death due to acute mountain sickness
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC at CBC, IC on 23 April at 5800m.

  Frank Ziebarth was on Everest North side climbing without oxygen and without Sherpa.

  According to email (dated 27 Aug) of Alexander Pare (from Canada) who was on the Everest north side, the summit push of Ziebarth started on 16 May BC, 17 ABC, 18 C1, 19 C2, 20 C3. Pare said at a meeting on return from Everest that Ziebarth started at 1 am (NST) from C3 on 21 May and Pare followed him. Pare said that Ziebarth was a fast climber. Apparently, Ziebarth summited on 21 May. Pare turned around from the bottom of 2nd Step (8600m) due to fatigue and malfunctioning of supply system of his oxygen. He waited for Ziebarth at C2 but he did not return. He was found dead sitting (as if he was resting) at the bottom of the Third Step. Pare said that at least three other climbers offered oxygen to Ziebarth considering his bad condition but he refused to use it. Pierre Schwinte, member of French team, had mentioned to other climbers that he saw Ziebarth crawling up to the summit. Schwinte was the last one to see Ziebarth.


  Email from Pierre Schwinte of Ludovic Challeat French Expedition - 30 Aug 2009

  I was actually the last guy who saw Frank alive. Before all, he reached the summit. I saw him beside the Buddha statue when I was climbing the last fifty meters (I was the very last climber of this day). It should be 12 hours 45 minutes, the 21st of May. We were absolutely alone. We passed each other 20m under the summit. He was without Sherpa, and without oxygen. He looked very tired. He has a steady gait but was making a break frequently on the ground for resting and taking air. He looked also very concentrated and didn't reply to me when I proposed him to go down together (I was also alone, my bottle of oxygen was empty and I was exhausted).

  I met him again as I was going down, just above the Third Step. It should be 2 pm (perhaps a little bit more). Once again, he looked exhausted, making some steps and stopping for rest. When I reached him, I proposed him a bottle of oxygen I found at the summit. He did not reply to me but he rejected my suggestion by giving me a sign with his hand to pass. Perhaps he thought he could continue without any help to succeed in climbing Everest alone and without oxygen.

  I never managed to see him during the way down.

  I reached the Camp 3 at 8:30 pm and I have been taken in by some Sherpas of another team. I told them that there was another guy upstairs. They left the C3 for the summit at 9 pm.

  His friend Alex waited for him the next morning at C3.

  We heard that Frank was found dead in the afternoon.


  Email from Alexandre Pare - 27 Aug 2009
  16 BC
  17 ABC
  18 C1
  19 C2 
  20 C3
  21 summit and death.


  Email from Alexandre Pare - 28 Aug 2009

  The camp altitude are the same as with us. I actually was with Frank at all camps during summit push, except at ABC (me and JP stayed at Middle Camp instead of ABC on the 17th).

  Concerning the first times:
  Frank made it to BC by bus the same day as us.
  He went up to middle camp, 2 days prior to us, but did not sleep there.
  He went up to sleep at middle camp the same day as us.
  He went up to ABC one day later (he slept one night at middle camp only - where we would sleep 3 nights).
  I don't remember when he went first to C1, but it certainly was before us.
  He made it once close to C2 before the summit push, but did not sleep there. I don't remember the date. His first time at C3 was with me.


  Anna Baranska - 31 Aug 2009

  Frank appeared in C1 on 27 April, 12 May and 18 May (on the summit push). On 13 May he turned down as he did not feel well, I went to C2. C2 he reached on 19 May, C3 on 20 May.


expid: EVER09162
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Gabriel Filippi
sponsor: Everest 2009 - Ensemble au Summit
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2009-04-22
smtdate: 2009-06-06
termdate: 2009-06-08
termnote: Abandoned at 8400m due to bad weather and exhaustion
campsites: BC(22/04,5200m),ABC(30/04,6400m),C1(25/05,7100m),C2(03/06,7700m),C3(04/06,8300m),xxx(06/06,8400m)
agency: Mountain Tribes Trekking
routememo:
  First summit push Filippi and Saikaly reached C1 on 25 May. They had to spend five nights at C1 due to snowstorm. They returned to ABC on 29 May. Last attempt started from ABC on 2 June to C1, 3 June to C2, 4 June to C3. When they reached C3 it was dark and snow storm started picking up. Sherpas did not go with climbers. Filippi and Saikaly could not find the cache left by their Sherpas at C3. Czech climbers told Filippi that they saw a bag little far away from their tent. Finally Saikally found the bag. They set up their camp, the storm continued. They had to spend whole day of 5 June inside the tent due to storm. Midnight of 5 June left C3 for summit. They were tired. Saikaly reached 8400m and Filippi was about 50m below. The fixed line was buried under deep snow. The snowstorm started again, then both the climbers returned to C3. Filippi arrived C3 between 3-4 in the morning. Saikaly arrived at 9 am of 7 June. Both descended to ABC same day. Next day to CBC. Phurba and Phinjo reached C3.


expid: EVER09161
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Robert Link
sponsor: Mountain Link 2009
approach: Monjo->Namche->Dingboche->Lobuche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2009-04-16
smtdate: 2009-05-03
termdate: 2009-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to high wind, snowfall
campsites: BC(16/04,5300m),C1(30/04,5850m),C2(01/05,6400m),xxx(03/05,6700m)
agency: Mountain Tribes Trekking
routememo:
  Barnes and Booker spent three nights at C2 (1-3 May), then descended to BC on 4 May. On their summit bid they started from BC on 18 May, but they had to turn around from below C1 due to snowstorm. 

  Dunnahoo according to Booker went up to C2, in fact Dunnahoo was not climbing with Booker team. Dunnahoo on return stayed at Manaslu hotel and did not want to meet and talk about his climbing. Link left BC on 5 May for his business back home. 

  Booker may come back for Everest in 2010.

  The expedition cook Kazi Lama Sherpa (1979-80 (2026), Taksindu-3, Solu) died at BC at about 8:45 am on 11 May of acute cardio-pulmonary disease with hypothermia, perhaps induced by alcohol poisoning (methanol tainted alcohol) at base camp.


expid: EVER09160
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Boris Korshunov
sponsor: International Adventure Alternative (Russian to Everest)
bcdate: 2009-04-13
smtdate: 2009-05-19
smttime: 0445
campsites: BC(13/04,5300m),C2(6400m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Russians to Everest expedition members Elmezov and Pemba Renjin started their summit push from BC to C2 on 16 May, arrived C3 on 17th and to C4 on 18th. The team left C4 at 9 pm of 18 May and reached summit at 4:45 am of 19 May with Pemba Renjin. The team descended to C4 at 8 am. They continued their descend and arrived to Himex C3 (7300m or 7350m) between usual C3 and C4 at 11 pm. Next day 20 May, to BC according to Sanjay Baral "Kazu." Pemba Renjin was with Elmezov. 

  Leader Korshunov went up to C2. The team returned to Kathmandu on 28 May. Elmezov left Kathmandu either on 29 or 30 May. Korshunov to leave on C1 June. Korshunov does not speak English.

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Rinjin Sherpa, 1/1/65, Tashigaon, Makalu-5, Everest X3


expid: EVER09133
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Romania
leaders: Alexandru Gavan
sponsor: International Adventure Alternative
approach: Lukla->Namche->Tengboche->Dingboche
bcdate: 2009-04-16
smtdate: 2009-04-19
termdate: 2009-04-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to scared of icefall/crevasse
campsites: BC(16/04,5360m),C1(18/04,5900m),C2(19/04,6400m),xxx(19/04,6400m)
agency: Nepal Trans Himalayan Explorer
routememo:
  Gavan went up to C2 on 19 April, spent night there. Next day went back to BC. He did not like to go back to icefall again and gave up the expedition.


expid: GANG09101
peakid: GANG
year: 2009
route1: E Ridge from N
nation: Iran
leaders: Hamid Hajarian
sponsor: Rask Club Gangapurna Expedition 2009
approach: Besisahar->Jagat->Dharapani->Chame->Pisang->Hongde->Manang
bcdate: 2009-04-19
smtdate: 2009-05-01
termdate: 2009-05-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to death of liaison officer
campsites: BC(19/04,3900m),ABC(22/04,4969m),C1(27/04,5228m),C2(01/05,6000m),xxx(01/05,6100m)
accidents: Liaison officer died of altitude sickness at BC
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  The team's climbing was on progress. On 28 April expedition's liaison officer Deepak Prasai died due to altitude sickness in the morning. On 27 April Prasai had headache, breathing problem and vomiting. Leader of the expedition Hajarian asked Prasai to go to lower altitude but he refused to do so. After the death of Liaison officer, the team decided to abandon the expedition. The dead body was brought to Kathmandu by helicopter on 30 April and handed over to family on same day. After the body was taken the five members and Sherpa went up to 6100m just to look at the route and returned to ABC. The team returned to Kathmandu on 8 May and trying to leave on 12 May. 

  Esmailian and Jafri left BC on 25 April due to their work back home. They returned to Kathmandu on 28 May and left on 1 May.

  Sherpa:
    Phur Gyalzen Sherpa, 21/11/75 (01/08/2032), Sikli, Jubing-9, Solu

  Liaison Officer:
    Deepak Prasai, 28/6/76 (15/03/2033), Purano Bazar, Chandra Nigahapur-8. Rautahat.


expid: GYAJ08303
peakid: GYAJ
year: 2008
route1: W Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Rene Minelli
sponsor: French Gyajikang Expedition
ascent1: 6th
bcdate: 2008-10-08
smtdate: 2008-10-13
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2008-10-17
campsites: BC(08/10,4800m),C1(09/10,5300m),C2(10/10,5800m),C3(11/10,6200m),C4(12/10,6500m),Smt(13/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  The expedition's climbing route was the same as that of the French-Belgian team led by Paulo Grobel in the spring of 2005.

  The summit team of all four members, Jangbu and Pemba Jangbu, left C1 for the top at 5:00 am and were on the summit at 3:00 pm of 13 October. They returned to C4 at 6:00 pm and slept there. They were back in C2 on the 14th and in BC on the 15th.

  Sherpas:
    Jangbu, 19/9/79 (3/6/2036), Bupsa, Jubing-5, Solu, Everest X3
    Pemba Jangbu, 16/2/86 (5/11/2042), Bupsa, Jubing-5, Solu, Makalu 1/5/08


expid: JOBO09101
peakid: JOBO
year: 2009
route1: SW Face
nation: USA
leaders: Joe Puryear
sponsor: American Jobo Rinjang Expedition
ascent1: 1st
bcdate: 2009-04-12
smtdate: 2009-04-22
smttime: 1530
termdate: 2009-04-28
othersmts: Climbed Kyojo Ri and several other minor peaks
campsites: BC(12/04,5050m),Biv1(20/04,5100m),Biv2(21/04),Smt(22/04)
achievment: 1st ascent of East Summit
agency: Climb High Himalaya
routememo:
  BC at Lunag village (deserted)
  High point at East Summit.

  American Jobo Rinjang Expedition, led by Joseph Puryear - 1 May 2009

  The two-member team with no Sherpa helpers and no bottled oxygen made a pure alpine ascent of Jobo Rinjang's East Summit in the first ascent of either of the mountain's two summits.

  First they spent a week rapidly trekking around Khumbu. They landed at Lukla on 22 March and were in Namche Bazaar the next day. On the 24th they trekked to Thami. From there they moved west-northwest to Sundar, a hill southwest of Thamiteng, then north along the Bhote Kosi River to Lungden/Landen/Lungare village, north-northeast across the Renjo Pass to Gokyo Ri's north summit (5483m), east to Tso La/Cho La (5368m), south and southeast to a place on the maps called Thokla/Durglha/Dukla, which is just one lodge and one tea house, where they arrived on 30 March and from where they left the same day to climb Kala Patar and return to Thokla.

  On the 31st they went down to Namche Bazaar, spent a day resting there, and on 2 April they moved north to climb the so-called trekking peak named Kyajo Ri/Kyazo Ri (actually 6186m) and summited it on 6 April via its southwest arete. Back to Namche Bazar. Their trekking excursion was now over.

  On 11 April, they left Namche Bazar for their mountain, Jobo Rinjang, which Puryear described as "a beautiful pyramid that dominates the whole region" and hides a series peaks on a ridge west and northwest of it along the border. (These peaks and Jobo Rinjang should be known as the Lunag Massif, he thinks.) The two climbers made their BC at 5050m just below the tiny deserted village of Lunag on the east side of the Lunag Glacier.

  During the next seven days they explored the mountain's southern, southwestern and eastern sides to find a feasible climbing route (the western and northern sides are out of bounds in Tibet). They concluded that the SW Face offered the best possible line, and after a day's rest at BC, they set out on the 20th to make their alpine-style ascent.

  On the first day, 20 April, they bivouacked at 5100m at the bottom of the face. The next morning at two o'clock they started up the steep ice face -- the southern sides the mountains they climbed had no snow cover but were all blue ice -- and then had difficulty finding a spot where they could bivouac that night. They climbed and climbed on technical terrain at altitude, up two ice couloirs, one of which zigged and the other zagged up between two huge hanging glaciers, and over two rock bands, from which rocks were falling off (none hit the climbers but some came close). Finally at about 9:00 pm in the dark using headlamps in a snowstorm at the top of one of the hanging glaciers. Said Puryear, "We were cooked!" (really exhausted).

  On 22 April, they started at 9:00 am for the East Summit up steep unconsolidated snow and snow fluting; now there was no more ice cover, and the drop-off was "scary". They were on the top at 3:30 pm. The top is actually flat, so they bivouacked there (6777m) for their third bivouac.

  They could now see that west of where they stood was a higher summit (6895m) connected to the East Summit by a very sharp two-kms long ridge. On the 23rd they ventured along this ridge for about 500m and then decided it was too risky for them to continue: too many objective dangers with too many cornices. They retreated to their bivouac site at 6777m and spent a second night there.

  Finally, on the 24th, they descended with difficulty the SW Face they had ascended. They needed to make 20 six-meter rappels in one section amidst huge falling rocks, but reached their first bivouac site at the bottom of the face unscathed. On the 25th they were back in BC, and left it on the 28th to fly from Lukla to Kathmandu.


expid: KAGA09201
peakid: KAGA
year: 2009
route1: SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Rene Minelli
sponsor: French Kanta Gaton Expedition 2009 Summer
ascent1: 1st
approach: Nepalgunj->Juphal by air
bcdate: 2009-08-14
smtdate: 2009-08-16
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2009-08-18
campsites: BC(14/08,4885m),ABC(15/08,5300m),Smt(16/08)
achievment: 1st attempt and 1st ascent
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  The team flew to Nepalgunj on 4 Aug and next day to Juphal, then trekked to BC via Dunai, Ringmo and Samduwa to BC beside Chalugai Tal (lake) on 14 August.

  On the 15th they all made high camps at 5300m. On the 16th, Beranger stayed in high camp because it was snowing and he was tired. The other five members, plus Pemba Jangbu, left high camp for the summit at 5:30 am. After climbing about 200m above the camp in one hour, Schadt-Minelli turned back: she didn't like the snow-covered crevasses, and she was tired.

  The remaining four members kept climbing and reached the summit at 9:30 am on the 16th. They had encountered three pitches of seracs and a small icefall with crevasses on the glacier before the start of the SE Ridge. They had avoided an area of bad rock at the bottom of the ridge. The ridge itself not steep. 

  The summiters rejoined the others at high camp afater an hour's descent from the top. They packed up the camp and returned to BC at 3:00 pm.

  They are confident that they were the first people anywhere near their route. They found no traces of earlier attempts.

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Jangbu Sherpa, 16/2/86 (5/11/2042), Bupsa, Jubing-5, Solu,
      Makalu 1/5/08 and Broad Peak 30/7/09, he said


expid: KANG09102
peakid: KANG
year: 2009
route1: SW Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Romano Benet
sponsor: Italian Annapurna-Kangchenjunga Expedition
bcdate: 2009-05-01
smtdate: 2009-05-17
termdate: 2009-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to Benet's bad health
othersmts: Attempted Annapurna I (ANN1-091-02)
campsites: BC(01/05,5300m),C1(05/05,6200m),C2(08/05,6600m),C3(15/05,7200m),xxx(17/05,7500m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Italian Annapurna I/Kangchenjunga Expedition, led by Romano Benet - 24 April 2009

  Kangchenjunga

  Benet and Meroi flew from Kathmandu to Biratnagar on 25 April and trekked to BC, which they pitched on 1 May at 5300m, slightly lower than other teams camps. They made a deposit camp on 5 May at 6200m at the top of the first icefall; this was simply a storage place and never occupied. On the 8th they set their C2 at 6600m, midway up the second icefall. On the 9th they climbed up to 7000m, where strong winds forced them to turn back and sent them down to BC on the 10th.

  On 14 May they resumed their climb. They went directly to C2, and on the 15th they pitched C3 at 7200m at the beginning of the plateau known as the Great Shelf. They stayed in the camp on the 16th because of the wind.

  On 17 May they climbed up from C3 to set up their C4. But at 7500m, above the Great Shelf, they decided to go down because Benet was not feeling well. He apparently had some king of pulmonary infection. They returned to C2 for that night and descended all the way to BC on the 18th.

  Benet was feeling no better on the 18th, and they decided to abandon their attempt on Kangchenjunga. There was no question of Meroi's staying on the mountain without him: "We always climb together," she explained (furthermore, he was her husband). They left BC four days later. Benet had not fully recovered when they were in Kathmandu and he planned to get a medical check-up when they got home.


expid: KANG09103
peakid: KANG
year: 2009
route1: SW Face
nation: UK
leaders: Keith Kerr
sponsor: Hong Kong Kangchenjunga Expedition
ascent1: 78th
approach: Suketar->Yalung Glacier
bcdate: 2009-04-24
smtdate: 2009-05-19
smttime: 0715
termdate: 2009-05-26
campsites: BC(24/04,5500m),C1(30/04,6000m),C2(01/05,6400m),C3(10/05,6900m),C4(18/05,7600m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Team left C4 at 9 pm on 18 May. Snow deep but firm, weather calm. Good views from summit, where they spent about 5 minutes. On descent they stopped at C2 at about noon to drink some tea. They stayed for 1 hour and carried on to C3, where they arrived at 7 pm. On 20 May team descended to BC.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Dorje, Sonam, Gudel-4, Solu, 16/11/61, Makalu X3, Lhotse X1, 
      Everest X4, Cho Oyu X3
    Namgyal Sherpa, Bung-9, Solu, 25/9/71, Everest 2008
    Tendi Sherpa, Sanam, Solu, 13/10/68, Everest 2007 & 2008


expid: KANG09104
peakid: KANG
year: 2009
route1: SW Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Oscar Cadiach
sponsor: Spanish Team to Kangchenjunga
ascent1: 73rd,77th
countries: Andorra, Poland
approach: Arughat
bcdate: 2009-04-21
smtdate: 2009-05-18
smttime: 0530
termdate: 2009-05-27
campsites: BC(21/04,5400m),C1(25/04,6200m),C2(26/04,6700m),C3(30/04,7200m),C4(17/05,7750m),Smt(18-19/05)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  18 May summit team left 4 at 7:30 am. It was very cold and windy. Climb was straightforward. They spent 1/2 hour on the summit. They descended to C4 and arrived there at 7:30 pm. On 19 May descent to C2; 20 May to BC.

  Zerain and Fernandez left C4 at 7:30 pm on 18 May. Fernandez turned back at 8000m due to cold feet. Zerain carried on to summit on his own and reached summit at 5:30 am. He descended all the way to BC after summit and arrived at 4 pm.

  Cadiach did not climb with group and stayed at BC during their ascent. On 23 May he reached C4, but due to bad weather, he turned back and descended to C3 same day. He stayed there for 3 nights and waited for weather to improve. On 26 May to BC. 

  Reketa reached C3 on 17 May on acclimatization trip; back in BC he caught stomach bug and stayed there.

  Ribas reached C3 on 20 April on acclimatization trip; after this he stayed at BC due to lack of energy.


  Rodrigo Peron - 7 Jan 2010

  Rodrigo Peron reports that Patxi Goni has stated in the Spanish press (in Diario Navarra on 7 Jan 2010) that he and Koke Lasa stopped 150m short of the summit due to exhaustion and high winds.


  Ferran Latorre on Kangchenjunga summits (via Eberhard Jurgalski) - 2 Feb 2010

  "From the Spanish people, only four of us summited: first myself, after Asier Izaguirre, Juanito Oiarzábal and Edurne Pasaban, together with one Sherpa (the other Sherpa from our team, turned around about 8400m). Finally, Kinga Baranowska topped about half hour after Edurne. I topped about 3 hours before of my friends and went down till 8400m, the place I call 'Bivouac stone', where I waited to watch out my friends.

  Coque Lasa and Patxi turned around on the Bivouac stone. Alex Txicon unfortunately turned around few meters before the Rappel and came down to my position to watch out our friends. Juanjo Garra, who was climbing together with Kinga Baranowska, turned around just before the Rappel, when they crossed at that point with Edurne's team who was going down from summit. In a slow walk, the Rappel is about 20-30 minutes from summit. Kinga followed alone to the summit. She has very good footage from the summit. She really was tough to follow alone so late!"


expid: KANG09105
peakid: KANG
year: 2009
route1: SW Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Edurne Pasaban
sponsor: Al Filo de lo Impossible Kangchenjunga
ascent1: 76th
bcdate: 2009-04-16
smtdate: 2009-05-18
smttime: 1345
termdate: 2009-05-21
campsites: BC(16/04,5500m),C1(20/04,6100m),C2(25/04,6600m),C3(28/04,7100m),C4(17/05,7700m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 above 1st Icefall
  C2 at Great Shelf.

  The successful summiters left C4 for the top at 2:00 am on 18th May. On the final part of their route, at 50-100m below the col between Yalung Kang and the main summit, they turned right together and moved up the SW Face of the main summit to about 8300m and again turned right to get to the top; from here, the members separated as they climbed on "tricky rocks." Latorre was the fastest and summited at 1:45 pm. Izagirre got there at 4:00 pm, Oiarazabal at 4:30 pm and Pasaban with Jangbu at between 5:30 and 6:00 pm.

  All of them returned to C4. Latorre waited at 8400m at least an hour to see what happened to the others, then went down to C4 at 9:30-10:00 pm. The others turned up there at about midnight.

  Chicon had been a member of the summit party, but was exhausted when he reached 8500m and stopped there. He went down to C4 with Latorre.

  On the next day 19 May, Pasaban, Chicon, and Jangbu descended only to C3. Both were very tired. All the others went to C2 that day. Everyone was in BC on the 20th.

  The team did not take oxygen with them, but Pasaban and Chicon borrowed some from other teams and used it from C3 to C2. Both had slightly frostbitten fingers are and were exhausted. The other member with health problems was Egocheaga, who reached C4, got pneumonia and cracked some ribs from coughing very hard, and had to retreat.

  Sherpas:
    Jangbu Sherpa, 19/9/79 (3/6/2036), Kharikhola, Solu, Everest X3


  Ferran Latorre on Kangchenjunga summits (via Eberhard Jurgalski) - 2 Feb 2010

  "From the Spanish people, only four of us summited: first myself, after Asier Izaguirre, Juanito Oiarzábal and Edurne Pasaban, together with one Sherpa (the other Sherpa from our team, turned around about 8400m). Finally, Kinga Baranowska topped about half hour after Edurne. I topped about 3 hours before of my friends and went down till 8400m, the place I call 'Bivouac stone', where I waited to watch out my friends.

  Coque Lasa and Patxi turned around on the Bivouac stone. Alex Txicon unfortunately turned around few meters before the Rappel and came down to my position to watch out our friends. Juanjo Garra, who was climbing together with Kinga Baranowska, turned around just before the Rappel, when they crossed at that point with Edurne's team who was going down from summit. In a slow walk, the Rappel is about 20-30 minutes from summit. Kinga followed alone to the summit. She has very good footage from the summit. She really was tough to follow alone so late!"

accidents:
  Both Pasaban and Chicon had slightly frostbitten fingers & were exhausted; Egocheaga got pneumonia & cracked some ribs from coughing very hard


expid: KANG09106
peakid: KANG
year: 2009
route1: SW Face
nation: Norway
leaders: Jon Gangdal
sponsor: Kangchenjunga Expedition 2009 (on Windhorse permit)
ascent1: 74th
countries: Sweden
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2009-04-20
smtdate: 2009-05-18
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2009-05-20
campsites: BC(20/04,5350m),C1(24/04,6100m),C2(27/04,6600m),C3(15/05,7100m),C4(17/05,7700m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Tseringma Treks
routememo:
  On 18 May at 00.00 hours Karlsson, Gangdal, Dendi and Dawa Tenzing left C4, reached summit at 10 am on 18 May, stayed on summit approx. 30 minutes, descended to C3. Pasang's high point was C4.

  Sherpas:
    Dendi Sherpa, 22/11/76 (07/08/2033), Gorakhani, Solu, Everest X2
    Dawa Tenzing, 31/10/75 (7/14/2032), Beding, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X2
    Pasang, 27/4/78 (14/01/2035), Lelep-8, Kangchenjunga X1


expid: KANG09107
peakid: KANG
year: 2009
route1: SW Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Jae-Soo
sponsor: Kolon Sport International Kangchenjunga Expedition 2009
ascent1: 75th
approach: See route details
bcdate: 2009-05-06
smtdate: 2009-05-18
smttime: 1120
termdate: 2009-05-21
othersmts: Climbed Makalu (MAKA-091-09) and Dhaulagiri I (DHA1-092-01)
campsites: BC(06/05,5500m),C2(10/05,6600m),C3(15/05,7300m),C4(17/05,7800m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  Approach: Son bus to Taplejung, trekked to BC; Kim and Go by helicopter to Suketar from Makalu.

  Kim, Go, Ngada (Nada), Kami Chhiri Lama and Kami Chhiri Sherpa started at 1 am on 18 May from C4. The team reached to the summit at 11:20 am, stayed on summit for 40 minutes, descended to C4 at 4 pm. They had rest at C4 for about 30 minutes then continued to C3 where they reached at 9 pm, slept there. Next day to BC. Summit day weather was good, little windy. Pasaban team, Norwegian, Swedish and Polish woman Kinga also summited on that day. Pasaban got to the summit without oxygen. 

  Son climbed up to C2 on 15 May. He could not sleep well at C2. Next day went down to BC. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 24 May. One week later will go to Pakistan Nanga Parbat.

  Sherpas:
    Ngata (Nada) Sherpa, 2/2/76 (19/10/2032), Lelep-9, Taplejung
    Kami Chhiri Lama, about 1/5/68 (19/1/2025), Bhakanje-5, Solu, Everest X1
    Kami Chhiri Sherpa, 1/12/78 (02/09/2035), Cheskam-2, Sankhuwasabha


expid: KANG09108
peakid: KANG
year: 2009
route1: SW Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Oh Eun-Sun
sponsor: Oh Eun-Sun Kangchenjunga & Dhaulagiri I Expedition
approach: Biratnagar->Taplejung->Yamphudin->Cheram->Ramze->Glacier Camp
bcdate: 2009-04-08
smtdate: 2009-05-06
smttime: 1745
termdate: 2009-05-10
othersmts: Climbed Dhaulagiri (DHA1-091-13)
campsites: BC(08/04,5600m),C1(19/04,6150m),C2(20/04,6615m),C3(27/04,7100m),C4(05/05,7700m),xxx(06/05)
accidents: Frostbite of Norbu's fingers
achievment: 1st Korean woman on Kangchenjunga summit
agency: Korean Treks & Expeditions
routememo:
  Oh's summit push started on 3 May from BC to C2. On 4 May to C3, on 5 May to C4. Miss Oh, Dawa, Pema and Nurbu started from C4 at 9 pm, reached summit at 5:45 pm on 6 May, stayed on summit for about 10 minutes, descended to C4 where they arrived at 11:30 am on 7 May, slept for 3 hours then descended to BC where they arrived at 5:30 pm. Weather on summit push was good at the beginning. After 2 pm started little snowfall. After 5 pm the weather became bad, sometimes it was total white-out. But there was bright moon, on summit little little windy. Spanish team of Pasaban was at C3. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 11 May. Oh is planning to go to Dhaulagiri on 24 May. 

  Other member's high points:
    Hong, Kim and Park only BC. 
    Jung went up to C3 on 27 April.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Dawa Wangchuk/Ongchu, 17/12/72 (3/9/2029), Mathilow, Walung, Makalu-9,
      Kangch X3, Everest X3, etc
    Pema Tshering, 16/6/70 (2/3/2027), Walung, Makalu-9, Everest X3, Dhaulagiri I X1,
      Lhotse X1
    Nurbu Sherpa, 10/12/84 (25/8/2041), Nurbugaon, Makalu-5, Everest X1, Lhotse X1


  Miss Oh Eun-Sun's Kangchenjunga Summit Claim - Elizabeth Hawley, 5 June 2010

  Whether Miss Oh Eun-Sun did or did not climb all the way to the summit of Kangchenjunga in May 2009 is a matter under dispute.

  Miss Oh said on 3 May 2010 that she relied completely on Dawa Wangchuk Sherpa, who was her guide and had summited Kangchenjunga three times before. He told her that they had arrived at the summit, and therefore she is sure they were on or very, very close to the top. The video of her climb shows her at this highest point standing on an uneven rocky surface with some snow in the cracks. She did also say that she actually stopped 10 linear meters or five vertical meters from the top. On 10 May, in reiterating her summit claim, she became tearful; she is deeply convinced of the truth of her claim.

  She convinced Reinhold Messner, who was in Kathmandu at the same time as she. He said on 9 May, after a long interview with her, that she probably did get to within a few meters of the top and not the very top because the wind was too strong to go to the top. He recalled that when the British-New Zealand expedition made the first ascent in May 1955, they stopped short of the summit, and their claim is recognized. [They stopped short out of respect for the sentiments of the Lepcha people who live on its eastern side and consider the summit the home of their gods.]

  Dawa Wangchuk said on 23 May that all four in the summit party, Miss Oh, he himself and their two Sherpas, stood on the top together. They climbed to the summit in single file: he himself was in the lead, then Miss Oh, Pemba Tshering and lastly Nurbu. (In order to move faster, Nurbu had taken off his oxygen to reduce the weight he was carrying about 250 vertical meters below the top.) If Miss Oh says they stopped a few meters below the top, maybe she was confused by lack of oxygen. Dawa Wangchuk and Nurbu helped her down from the summit to about 8300m because she was dehydrated.

  However Nurbu has a different account. He began on 25 May by saying, "I want to tell the truth." He reported that Miss Oh, Dawa Wangchuk, who was the guide, and Pemba Tshering stopped 150 vertical meters below the top. He himself was 10 vertical meters above them in strong wind and light snowfall. He was then signalled by the others to come back to where they were. Why? Don't know. He obeyed orders, descended from the team's highest point, and they all went down together. He had a camera with him but didn't use it; the inference was that he saw no use in taking a picture below the top.

  A question has been raised in the media as to whether Nurbu has refuted Miss Oh's summit claim because his fingers and toes were frostbitten during his climb, and therefore he holds a grudge against her. Nurbu said on 5 June that he had stopped using oxygen before climbing to his high point and got frostbite in his descent without it. While descending at about 10:30 pm he had become very tired and sat down to rest; he fell asleep, and it was only when Miss Oh and Pemba Tshering came to him in their own descent, roused him and got him to go down with them, that he realized something was wrong with his fingers and toes. He was not seriously affected, but his fingers and toes are still sensitive. Miss Oh gave him funds in Kathmandu to start his medical treatment and sent more to him from Korea. He does not blame Miss Oh for his condition; he says it was his mistake to go to sleep. 

  Edurne Pasaban's expedition was on Kangchenjunga in May 2009 and summited 12 days after Miss Oh claimed ascent. She said on 22 April that she was sure for three reasons that Miss Oh did not get to the top: (1) her team watched the Koreans as they climbed above their last camp, saw them battling very strong wind before disappearing in cloud, then reappear in descent in so short a time that it was "impossible" for them to have gotten to the top; (2) two of the Sherpas with Miss Oh told Miss Pasaban that they had not summited; (3) in the "summit" photo showing Miss Oh standing on rock, she is definitely not on the summit, where Miss Pasaban found herself standing in snow (there was not enough snowfall between their summit dates, 6 and 18 May, to have made the difference, Miss Pasaban said).

  Miss Pasaban went to Tibet on 24 April; on her return to Kathmandu, on 23 May she was shown stills from Miss Oh's video at several spots above C4 and her stance on the "top." "I think she didn't go to the summit," Miss Pasaban reiterated because of the lack of snow under her feet.

  Another Korean woman summited Kangchenjunga on 18 May 2009. She was Miss Go Mi-Sun, who was also striving to scale all 8000ers. That month her team's leader, Kim Jae-Soo, showed a photo of Miss Go sitting on snow with a summit in the very near background; the summit is about three-fourths under snow while smooth rock shows at its edges.

  Park Young-Seok, who was not on Kangchenjunga in May 2009 but had summited it ten years previously also via the SW Face, said on 18 May it is "impossible" for her to have reached close to the summit based on her own data. He calculated her rate of ascent during her climb from their last camp (he put it at 7800m) to 8060m at 35 meters per hour, from 8060m to 8320m at 30.5 m/hr, then from 8320m to summit at 76.4 m/hr. He noted that the climb up from 8320m is the most difficult section, and climbing without oxygen (as Miss Oh was) makes it more difficult still.

  He said the Korean Alpine Federation held a meeting in Seoul in the autumn of 2009 to discuss her claim after a question was raised by another Korean climber. Miss Oh was present, and one of her sponsors invited Dawa Wangchuk Sherpa to come to Korea in support of her claim. No decision was taken at the meeting. Park doesn't know why.


  From Elizabeth Hawley's Seasonal Stories, Spring 2010 - 11 Sept 2010

  Exactly who was the first woman to summit all 8000-meter mountains? A controversy erupted this spring over whether it was a South Korean or a Spanish Basque. Was it Miss Oh Eun-Sun, who scaled Annapurna I this spring after having claimed the summit of Kangchenjunga in May 2009, or was it Miss Edurne Pasaban who reached the summits of Annapurna I and Xixabangma this spring?

  Miss Oh is sincerely convinced that she summited Kangchenjunga on 6 May 2009, and she produces a picture of herself standing on a rocky formation that shows more rock somewhat above her. She says she and her three Sherpas were perhaps ten linear meters or five vertical meters from the top, and she relies completely on the expertise of her head Sherpa, Dawa Wangchuk, who had summited the mountain three times before and led her to this point. If he says, as he does, that they were on top, then she has no doubt that that's where they were.

  But there were debates in Korea last year about her Kangchenjunga summit claim at two meetings in Seoul last November and December. It was here in Korea that the controversy first arose -- before the issue burst into a matter of worldwide interest this spring, when both she and Edurne Pasaban said they had now "conquered" all eight-thousanders. The first discussion was organized by three Korean mountaineering journals, which took no decision, and the second by the Corean Alpine Club, and after some discussion, the meeting also came to no conclusion.

  However this August, after Miss Oh's success on her "last" eight-thousander, the CAC's chairman stated that "there is no evidence that she did not reach the summit. Accordingly, the Corean Alpine Club acknowledges she had successfully reached the summit."

  But this decision is by no means universally supported. Her rival for the record, Miss Edurne Pasaban, also led an expedition to Kangchenjunga in the same season, and she is certain that not enough time elapsed between the time she saw Miss Oh's summit party battling strong wind to reach about 8450m (perhaps 136m below the top) and then move out of sight behind a buttress, and the time at which they reappeared. Others who were also on the mountain at the same time agree with Miss Pasaban, and a well-known Korean, who does not want to be named, told me that her claimed rate of climbing that final day up the most difficult section of the route was "impossible."

  The leader of another Korean team on Kangchenjunga at the same time as Miss Oh, Kim Jae-Soo, as early as June 2009, when his team had just returned to Kathmandu from a successful climb of Dhaulagiri I, produced two contrasting photos: a picture of his star member, Miss Go Mi-Sun, sitting in good snow, and Miss Oh's best evidence of her Kangchenjunga success, standing on rock with a little snow scattered on it; the background is blurred, but some rock appears to be behind and above her.

  Even one of Miss Oh's "summit" Sherpas, Nurbu, has disputed her claim. He told me in June this year that the summit party stopped about 150m below the top while, he himself climbed ten meters above them but was then called back to where they were, and they all descended from there. Why? He doesn't know. He said he had taken no photograph of his high point.

  But Nurbu's testimony cannot be fully relied on: Miss Pasaban made a special trip to Kathmandu to receive some photos which she understood he would make available to her, but when she met him, she says he asked one million euros for his pictures. She paid him nothing and went home empty-handed. But Nurbu told Miss Oh's trekking agent that he had said to Miss Pasaban that even if she gave him a million euros he would not support her.

  What would appear to be the most serious blow to Miss Oh, on 26 August this year the Korean Alpine Federation, the nation's largest climbing association, concluded that Miss Oh had not reached the top of Kangchenjunga. Following KAF's meeting in Seoul of six leading Koreans who had scaled the mountain (including Kim Jae-Soo), KAF's secretary general told the Korean press that "all of the participants shared the view that the landscape shown in Miss Oh's alleged photo shots throughout the entire ascent doesn't seem to match the actual landscape. They also agreed that Oh's previous explanations on the process of her ascent are unreliable."

  One principal cause of their doubts was the timetable she presented about her progress in ascent on the final day. They judged her claimed rate of ascent to have been very unlikely given the bad weather and the greater difficulty of the route as she and her Sherpas moved ever higher, plus her the fact that she was using no supplemental oxygen.

  Miss Oh's reported response: "It's a unilateral opinion." Miss Pasaban is quoted as saying, "This confirmation eases my mind."

  The latest dispute raised by Korean journalists arose in late August, when it became general knowledge that Miss Oh carried in her pocket on summit day the flag or banner of her university. It was seen carefully placed on the route by a Norwegian summiter and also by Kim Jae-Soo, who picked it up and brought it down with him. Kim said he saw it during his own descent from the top on the same day as Miss Oh's claimed success; he judges it might have been about 150m below the top.

  Could this mean that Nurbu Sherpa was correct about Miss Oh's having stopped at that altitude?  If so, why did her head Sherpa, Dawa Wangchuk, who had summited the mountain three times before, tell her they were at the top? Was it because she had been climbing without oxygen and was clearly extremely tired, as she herself later said, and he feared she might totally collapse if she forced herself to push on higher?

  So the questions remains, who was the first woman to summit all eight-thousanders? Doubt about Miss Oh's sincerely-believed Kangchenjunga summit claim may never be dispelled.


  Declaration of Korean Alpine Federation on Miss Oh's Kangchenjunga 2009

  Korean Alpine Federation (president In-Jeong Lee) had a meeting with 6 Korean summiteers of Mt. Kangchenjunga, Mr. Hong-Gil Um (summit in 2000), Young-Seok Park (summit in 1999), Wang-Yong Han (summit in 2002), Jae-Soo Kim (summit in 2009), Chang-Ho Kim (summit in 2010O), Woong-Sik Kim (summit in 2002) and Jea-Bong Kim, managing director of KAF at the conference room of KAF on Aug 26.

  After in-depth discussion with 6 summiters and one more summiteer, Sung-Ho Suh (summit in 2010) as on phone, KAF declared her summit claim 'unlikely' and the facts to prove her summiting were not enough.

  But KAF adds that it is still opened for her if she submits more proof or evidence on her summit.

  In-Jeong Lee
  President of Korean Alpine Federation


expid: KJRN09101
peakid: KJRN
year: 2009
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
sponsor: Paulo Kanjiroba Himal Expedition
approach: Jumla by air
bcdate: 2009-04-04
smtdate: 2009-04-08
termnote: Reconnaisance only
campsites: BC(04/04,4550m),xxx(08/04,5660m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  This trip was a reconnaissance for a future climbing expedition in the Kanjiroba Himal east of Patrasi, in the area of Jagdula Lekh and western edge of Shey Phoksundo National Park. Grobel wanted see whether it was possible to approach the area where he wants to climb by crossing a pass he had in mind.

  He and Baillif flew to Jumla on 30 March and trekked north to Talphi village, where they arrived on 3 April. Then north to the Chaudhabise Khola, south and southeast of Patrasi Himal and is known in this section by the local people as Bijora Khola; they moved southeast to point 3970m (on the Nepal Survey Department-Finnish map Kanjirowa Himal, Sheet no. 2982-11) in this valley, then east to make a base camp on 4 April at 4550m on a slope overlooking the valley. From this camp, they went north to the pass at 5500m from which, on the 6th, they had a good view of the area to the north where Grobel plans to climb in future. He saw that it is definitely possible to descend via this pass.

  They returned to the base camp at 4550m on the 7th and on the same day went southeast to camp at 5200m that day. On the 8th they continued southeast to 5660m. Now snow started falling, so they returned to 5200m. They stayed there on the 9th, then retraced their steps back to Bijora Khola and on the 11th they returned to Talphi village.

  On the 13th they started the trek back to Jumla, arrived there on 15 April and flew out the same day to Nepalgunj on their way to Kathmandu.


expid: KOJI09101
peakid: KOJI
year: 2009
route1: W Face of N Col
nation: Spain
leaders: Pedro Navarro
sponsor: Majorca Mugu Expedition to Kojichuwa Chuli
bcdate: 2009-04-17
smtdate: 2009-04-19
termdate: 2009-04-19
termnote: Abandoned at 5550m due to could find no route from Nepal
campsites: BC(17/04,4750m),xxx(19/04,5550m)
achievment: 1st attempt
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Majorca Mugu Expedition to Kojichuwa Chuli - 5 May 2009

  The team flew from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj and Talcha Valley near Rara Lake by helicopter, then trekked east via Mugu Karnali River and north along Mugu Khola past Mugu village and east to BC, which was at a height of 4750m west of Mugu Chuli (6310m).

  They arrived at BC on 17 April and from there made a recce to decide on their actual climbing objective. They looked at Mugu Chuli and Kojichuwa Chuli, which are on the border between Nepal and Tibet, and first examined the West Face of Mugu Chuli, which they found was very steep with many falling seracs and snow avalanches. They moved north, and on 19 April Lopez, Navarro and Dawa Sherpa climbed to the col (5550m) on the border ridge in very loose rock and rocks were falling from it. It could not have been possible to fix this route.

  They returned to BC that day and the team decided to abandon their climbing efforts. They think it may be possible to climb the Tibetan (eastern) sides of these mountains, which appeared to be less steep than their western sides, but they didn't like the looks of the western approaches.

  While some members waited at BC for horses to take their gear on the 23rd from there to Mugu village, where the team would be reunited, Amengual, Lopez, Navarro and Dawa left BC two days ahead of them, on the 21st, with five porters and went south and southeast along the Kogi Khola to have a look at that area. All members were in Mugu on the 24th, spent four days filming the village and its people, and left on the 29th to return to Kathmandu.

  On his way to Mugu from BC, Roibal fell and his body was badly bruised. (This was the team's health problem). They took a helicopter from Gamgadhi village on the Mugu Karnali to Surkhet. They expected to take a bus from Surkhet to Nepalgunj, but a general strike by the people in the area blocked normal traffic for a day, so Roibal and another member travelled by ambulance to Nepalgunj for a scheduled flight to Kathmandu.

  Sherpa:
    Dawa Sherpa, 1/11/71 (15/7/2028), Tapting-9, Solu, Cho Oyu X1


expid: KOJI09201
peakid: KOJI
year: 2009
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Tamotsu Ohnishi
sponsor: Osaka Alpine Club West Nepal Expedition
bcdate: 2009-06-15
smtdate: 2009-06-21
termdate: 2009-06-22
termnote: Abandoned at 5565m due to tiredness of members
othersmts: Climbed Kaptang (KAPT-092-01)
campsites: BC(15/06,4600m),xxx(21/06,5565m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Osaka Alpine Club West Nepal Expedition led by Tamotsu Ohnishi - 23 Aug 2009

  Ohnishi's plan was to climb three peaks in Kanti Himal, Kaptang, Koijchuwa Chuli and Daphne Sail, all on the border with Tibet, and then visit a number of more passes between Nepal and Tibet. However, after they had been on Kaptang and Kojichuwa Chuli, most members were too tired  to explore the passes, and the team headed directly to Jumla and Kathmandu.

  Their approach route was by air to Nepalgunj on 19 May and to Jumla on 20 May, then from Jumla on 22 May they trekked north to Rara Lake, northeast to Mugu Khola, north along Mugu Khola to Kaptang BC.

  On 2 June, they reached Kaptang BC at 4300m just below Najala Pass of the border ridge. They made an ABC at 5492m on the south side of the mountain on 8 June, and on 9 June Irizawa, Ohnishi and Gomba Sherpa went for the top. They left ABC at 6:00 am, were on the summit of Kaptang at 2:00 pm and back in ABC at 4:00 pm. They had climbed the North Face (from Tibet) and had fixed 400m of rope on the steep, 70-degree fce.

  On the next day, the 10th, the remaining members went to the summit. They were Mizutani, Suzuki and Tsuji. They left ABC at 5:00 am, summited at 9:00 am, and returned to ABC at 2:00 pm.

  On the 15th the team made a new BC for Kojichuwa Chuli at 4600m south-southwest of the mountain. On the 21st, Irizawa, Suzuki, Tsuji and Gomba attempted the NW Ridge between the two mountains on its Tibetan side. The set out from the new BC at 5:00 am, at 9:00 am were at 5565m, too tired to press on to the top. They now turned back to BC and reached it at 2:00 pm.

  The next day, 22 June, they left camp to return to Jumla. They went to Mugu village, Ghora La, Yala La, Bhijor, Shey Gompa, Phuksumdo Lake, and from Ringmo near the lake on 23 July they took a helicopter to Nepalgunj. Tsuji had a stomach problem and needed to fly out; the others went along with him. From Nepalgunj, they flew to Pokhara, spent a few days there and were in back in Kathmandu on the 26th.

  Sherpa:
    Gomba Sherpa, 6/12/84 (21/8/2041), Sotang, Solu, no 8000ers


expid: LHOT09101
peakid: LHOT
year: 2009
route1: W Face
nation: Sweden
leaders: Lars Svens
sponsor: Swedes on Lhotse
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2009-04-04
smtdate: 2009-05-20
termdate: 2009-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 7350m due to team was too slow
campsites: BC(04/04,5350m),C1(12/04,5950m),C2(20/04,6400m),C3(19/05,7150m),xxx(20/05,7350m)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Team left C3 at 7 am on 20 May. Weather was clear and calm. When team arrived at the Yellow Band at 10 am, they noticed that they would be too late for summit. They returned to C3, where they arrived at 2 pm. The following day they descended to C1, the next day to BC. They did not consider another summit push due to too little time.


expid: LHOT09102
peakid: LHOT
year: 2009
route1: W Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Xavier Arias
sponsor: Xavi Arias Lhotse
ascent1: 137
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2009-04-23
smtdate: 2009-05-20
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2009-05-23
campsites: BC(23/04,5400m),C1(24/04,6000m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(30/04,7100m),C4(19/04,7700m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Arias left C4 at 3:30 am. He was climbing on his own but met Dujmovits team on way up. He spent about 10 minutes on summit where he met Hirotaka Takeuchi of Dujmovits team. He descended to C4 and arrived at 6 pm. On 21 May to C2, which he had to dismantle and carry down. He hired a Sherpa to help him. He descended to BC on 22 May.

  Arias Sherpa, who he had hired at beginning of expedition, had left him when he went down to Lobuche from 12 May to 15 May. For this reason he had to work on mountain between C3 and C4 on his own. He says it was the hardest thing he'd ever done. 


expid: LHOT09103
peakid: LHOT
year: 2009
route1: W Face
nation: Sweden
leaders: Fredrik Strang
ascent1: 139
approach: Lukla->Pangboche
bcdate: 2009-05-17
smtdate: 2009-05-22
smttime: 0610
termdate: 2009-05-24
othersmts: Climbed Makalu (MAKA-091-04)
campsites: BC(17/05,5350m),C2(18/05,6300m),C3(20/05,7100m),C4(21/05,7800m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  Summit team left C4 at 9:30 pm on 21 May. Weather was cold, but clear and very windy. When they arrived at summit it was very stormy. They spent 10 minutes on summit and descended to C4 and arrived at 9:30 am. On 23 May they descended to BC. They left C4 at 6:30 am and arrived to BC at 5 pm.


expid: LHOT09104
peakid: LHOT
year: 2009
route1: W Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Simone La Terra
sponsor: Italian on Lhotse (on Asian Trekking permit)
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2009-03-25
smtdate: 2009-05-18
termdate: 2009-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 7850m due to pulmonary edema
campsites: BC(25/03,5300m),C1(05/04,6100m),C2(11/04,6700m),C3(20/04,7100m),C4(18/05,7850m),xxx(18/05,7850m)
accidents: Suffered from pulmonary edema
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 above the Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on West Face of Lhotse.

  Summit push: La Terra left BC on 16 May slept in C2, on 17 May slept in C3. On 18 May reached C4 around 4 pm. Then he realized his nose was bleeding and saw blood in his cough. He decided to go down, came to sleep at C2. Next day he descended to BC. HRA clinic Doctor (Johnson) asked him to leave BC. He was evacuated by helicopter on 21 May. His health is normal when he reached Kathmandu.


expid: LHOT09105
peakid: LHOT
year: 2009
route1: W Face
nation: Finland
leaders: Samuli Mansikka
sponsor: SummitClimb International Lhotse Expedition 2009
ascent1: 131,136,138
countries: Denmark, Ireland, Switzerland, UK
bcdate: 2009-04-07
smtdate: 2009-05-19
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2009-05-17
campsites: BC(07/04,5350m),C1(16/04,6000m),C2(24/04,6375m),C3(28/04,7150m),C4(09/05,7850m),Smt(19-20/05)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on West Face
  C4 below couloir and lower end of the turtle on West Face.

  Mansikka led one team to Everest and a group of different members to Lhotse. One member reached the summit on 19 May and two other members followed on the next day.

  O'Dochartaigh and Lhakpa Nuru left C4 for the summit at 5:00 am on 19 May and were on the top at 1:30 pm. O'Dochartaigh stopped his descent at C4, while Lhakpa Nuru went down to C2. Lhakpa Nuru was in BC on the 20th, while O'Dochartaigh joined him there on the 21st.

  Meanwhile Danks and Valloton had left C4 on 20 May to go to the summit. Danks with Phurbu Wangchu started up at 4:00 am, were on the top at 1:00 pm, returned to C4 at 4:00 pm, and were down in C2 and the next day. Valloton and Sange left for the top at 8:00 am and reached the summit at 4:00 pm. Sange stopped in C3 at 6:00 pm, but Valloton continued down to C2 and arrived there at 7:00 pm; both were in BC on the 21st.

  Non-summiting members:

  Lindholm never went above BC; he had a breathing problem that was diagnosed as a collapsed lung and left the expedition on 11 April.

  Mansikka summited Everest instead of Lhotse.

  Oxygen was used by O'Dochartaigh from C3 to the summit to C3, and Lhakpa Nuru, who was with him, used it from C3 to the top to C4. Danks used it in C3 to the top to C2. Valloton used it from 8300m to the top to C3, while Sange, with her, used it from C3 to the top to C3.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Nuru, 21/8/81 (5/5/2035), Chaurikharka, Solu, Everest 23/5/08
    Phurbu Wangchu, 5/12/75, Waku, Solu, Everest 23/5/08
    Sange, 21/5/71 (7/2/2028), Dinding, Sankhuwasabha, no 8000ers


expid: LHOT09106
peakid: LHOT
year: 2009
route1: W Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Ralf Dujmovits
sponsor: Lhotse Expedition 2009
ascent1: 135
countries: Austria, Japan
bcdate: 2009-04-23
smtdate: 2009-05-20
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2009-05-23
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak on 19 April and 2 nights on top
campsites: BC(23/04,5300m),Biv1(26/04,6150m),Biv2(27/04,6450m),Biv3(29/04,7300m),Biv4(18/05,7800m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Dujmovits and Kaltenbrunner are married and often climb together and with Takeuchi, not so often with Goettler. On this climb, the four always climbed together, made all bivouacs together and summited on the same day although at different times.

  The team had no fixed camps above BC. They began their climb on 26 April. They left BC at 5:00 pm and bivouacked at 6150m, at 8:00 pm. On the 27th they moved up the Western Cwm to 6450m and stayed there two nights. On the 29th they climbed onto the West Face of Lhotse and bivouacked at 7300m. On 1 May they took their two bivvy tents from 7300m back down to 6450m, entrusted them to the C2 cook of IMG's American Everest expedition (led by Eric Simonson), and descended to their own BC tents.

  From 1 to 15 May they waited in BC for the very strong winds to die, and for temperature warmer than -30 to -35 C. at 8500m. Finally, on the 17th, they moved up again and got to C2. On the 18th they picked up their bivvy tents and bivouacked again at 7800m at the rock formation known as the Turtle below the bottom of the couloir.

  On 20 May they left the bivouac at 4:15 am and climbed to the summit. Kaltenbrunner climbed to 30m below the summit at 11:00 am and waited there for her husband, Dujmovits, for 50 minutes; the temperature was -25 degrees C. and the wind wind was blowing at 30 km/hr. Dujmovits joined her and together they summited at 12:00 noon (they met a New Zealander and a Sherpa at the top). Goettler arrived on the summit at 1:00 pm, and Takeuchi with the Spaniard Xavi Arias were there about one hour later.

  They all descended to their bivouac at 7800m for the night. Kaltenbrunner, Dujmovits and Goettler got there at 3:00 pm and Takeuchi, still with Arias, joined them at 6:00 pm. They all continued down to 7300m at 9:00 pm, and all were in BC on the 21st.


expid: LHOT09107
peakid: LHOT
year: 2009
route1: W Face
nation: Kazakhstan
leaders: Baglan Zhunus, Maxut Zhumayev
sponsor: Kazakhstan Lhotse-Everest Traverse Expedition
ascent1: 129
countries: Kyrgyz Republic, Russia
bcdate: 2009-04-12
smtdate: 2009-05-15
smttime: 1630
termdate: 2009-05-29
othersmts: Attempted Everest (EVER-091-10)
accidents: Sofrygin & Rudakov pulmonary edema; Shutov knee problem; Zhunus stomach problem
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(12/04),C1(15/04,6100m),C2(16/04,6500m),C3A(23/04,7200m),C3B(24/04,7400m),C4(14/05,7800m),Everest xxx(18/05,7700m),Lhotse Smt(15/05)

routememo:
  C4 at bottom of "the Turtle."

  Two members, Lavrov and Zhunus, intended to climb Everest via the normal South Col-SE Ridge route, but they did not get above C3. They reached C3 on 30 April and slept there, then descended to C2 on 1 May and BC on the 2nd. Lavrov abandoned the idea of scaling Everest and made the summit of Lhotse his goal. Zhunus tried again to get to the Col on 18 May but turned  back at the Yellow Band (about 7700m) on Lhotse's West Face, and left the expedition.

  Ten members set out in a serious attempt to get to the summit of Lhotse on 11 May: they were all of the expedition's members except Ilyinski, who was base camp manager and did no climbing in May, and Zhunus, who also had a stomach problem. The ten climbers went to C2 on the 11th, to C3 on the 13th, and on the 14to 7800m, where they established their C4 for Lhotse at the bottom of the rock formation known as the Turtle. Now the team divided into two groups.

  On 15 May the first group left C4 for the top at 3:00 am, when the temperature was minus 45 degree Celsius: they were Pivtsov, Samoilov, Shutov, Sofrygin and Zhumayev. As they moved up from C4 until about 4:30 am, they fixed 400m of rope below the couloir. Then they proceeded into the couloir without fixed ropes.

  Sofrygin was the only one to reach the summit. He was on the top at 4:30 pm, after having made the mistake of turning right at the top of the couloir, realizing his error, going back to the top of the couloir, then going left and finally getting to the summit. The others in the party traversed to the left at 8400m and reached 8500m at 5:00 to 5:45 pm. It was too late for them to attempt the summit. All returned to C4; Sofrygin arrived there at 8:00 pm. They were in C2 on the 16th and BC on the 17th.

  On their return to BC, Sofrygin found that he had pulmonary edema and Shutov had a knee problem. Rudakov also had developed pulmonary edema in his summit bid. The three left BC on 24 May.

  At 6:00 am on the 15th, the second group left C4: they were Grekov, Gutnik, Lavrov, Rudakov and Sharipova. They fixed 200m of rope inside the couloir, but abandoned their summit bid at 8100m. They were too cold and very tired, and the 200m of rope they had left was not enough to reach the top of the couloir. They returned to C4, went down to C2 on the 16th and BC on the 17th.

  Another push for Lhotse's summit, to be followed by the traverse down its North Ridge to the South Col and up Everest's SE Ridge, was launched from BC on 23 May. Grekov, Gutnik, Pivtsov, Samoilov, Sharipova and Zhumayev got to C2 that day; Grekov, Gutnik and Sharipova stopped here to wait for the others while Samoilov, Pivtsov and Zhumayev went on up to C3 on the 24th. On 25 May, Pivtsov and Zhumayev arrived at C4 at 4:00 pm and stopped there because snow was falling. Samoilov reached 200m below C4 and then turned back, but Pivtsov and Zhumayev didn't know this, and at 5:00 pm. Zhumayev went 20m down to look for Samoilov, didn't see him, rejoined Pivtsov in C4, and they both went down to C3. As they descended, Pivtsov and Zhumayev were twice hit by two avalanches which carried them 50m down the face each time, but they were not injured.

  Samoilov was not in C3. They stayed in the camp, unable to search for Samoilov because of fresh snowfall and strong wind. But on the 27th they could move again, and they got to C1 that day. On the same day, Samoilov's body was found at the bergschrund at 6800m at the bottom of Lhotse's West Face. (They secured it there; later it was taken to C2 and rocks were piled on top of it; they hoped to remove it in the fall and send it home to Almaty.)

  On the 28th, it took Pivtsov and Zhumayev, plus Grekov, Gutnik and Sharipova, all day to get to BC, a trip that normally takes only a couple of hours at most. All the ladders and fixed ropes in the Icefall were gone. They started from C1 at 5:00 am and arrived in BC 14 hours later. The team abandoned the climb because of Samoilov's fatal accident.

  Members who dropped out of climb:

  Skopin reached C3 on 30 April, had a stomach problem, retreated to BC on 3 May and remained there.

  Zhunus also went to C3 on 30 April, went down to BC the next day with a stomach problem, left BC to rest at Deboche village on the 5th or 6th, returned to BC on 10th or 12th, tried again to climb Everest and reached the Yellow Band on Lhotse's West Face (about 7700m) on the 18th. His stomach problem recurred and he descended to C2 on the same day and left BC and the expedition on the 21st.


expid: LHOT09108
peakid: LHOT
year: 2009
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Greg Vernovage
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Lhotse Expedition 2009
ascent1: 130,132
countries: France, UK
bcdate: 2009-04-18
smtdate: 2009-05-19
termdate: 2009-05-23
campsites: BC(18/04,5350m),C1(23/04,6000m),C2(25/04,6500m),C3(02/05,7300m),C4(19/05,7927m),Smt(19-20/05)
agency: Beyul Adventure
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on West Face.

  The expedition's C4 was pitched at 7927m on the West Face, 200m above the traverse from the Yellow Band and just before the Geneva Spur. From there, their route went straight up to the Turtle rock, below the couloir and to the right of it in order to avoid being hit by rock falling down the couloir, which acts as a chute (actually Vernovage was hit but his helmet protected him for injury.)

  The first climbers from this team to reach the top were two Sherpas, Chhewang Lendu and Gyalzen Dorje, who summited on 19 May while fixing 1000m of rope from C4 to the summit.

  The member's summit bid was made from C4 by Der Arslanian and Vernovage, the only ones left at BC. Accompanied by Chhewang Lendu, they left C4 at 1:45 am on 20 May, got to the summit at 7:45 am, were back in C4 at 10:45 am and continued down to C2 at 5:30 pm. They arrived at BC on the 21st, left the same day and spent the night at Pangboche. They were in Lukla on the 22nd and Kathmandu on the 23rd.

  Non-summiting members:

  Abell went to C3 on 18 April, was not strong enough to go higher. Vernovage told him to go down; Abell was not happy about these instructions, but he obeyed and left the team on the 20th.

  Adrian and Kierspe went into the Icefall on 21 April, said they loved their wives too much to continue, and left the team on the 23rd.

  Clapp never got above BC. He had altitude sickness on the team's arrival at BC on 18 April, left on the 19th for Pheriche, later returned to BC, but got sick again and Vernovage told him to leave, which he did on 1 May.

  Oxygen was used by all summiters in C4 to the summit. Der Arslanian, Vernovage and Chhewang Lendu stopped using it on return to C4 while the two members kept it on to C3.

  Sherpas:
    Chhewang Lendu, 19/4/80, Phortse, Everest X2, Lhotse X1, Cho Oyu X1, Manaslu X1
    Gyalzen Dorje, 17/2/88, Phortse, Everest X1


expid: LHOT09109
peakid: LHOT
year: 2009
route1: W Face-S Col
nation: Italy
leaders: Silvio Mondinelli
sponsor: Ev-Lo CNR Lhotse Expedition
bcdate: 2009-05-04
smtdate: 2009-05-17
termdate: 2009-05-11
campsites: BC(04/05,5350m),C2(05/05,6400m),xxx(17/05,7900m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  High point at South Col of Everest.

  Mondinelli's mission was to repair instruments installed on the South Col of Everest such as wind and humidity sensors for the research project being carried out at the research pyramid at Lobuche over the past years. These instruments had stopped functioning, and he had to fix or replace them. He said on his arrival in Kathmandu that after he accomplished their work, he would like to climb to the summit of Lhotse with the Austrian, Mrs. Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner. He is a very strong climber who has summited all 8000ers (including Cho Oyu twice).

  He arrived at the Lhotse-Everest base camp on 5 May and soon afterwards climbed up to C2 and C3 to acclimatize and returned to BC. On 16 May he went from to C2 and the 17th to C3 and the South Col to do his repair work. He found that two batteries were not functioning and two solar panels had been damaged by small rocks that the winds had tossed against them. Mondinelli descended from the Col to C2 on the same day, the 17th, and to BC on the 18th while the defunct batteries and solar panels were carried down to the pyramid.

  On the 20th, he went back up with replacements batteries to C2 and to the Col on the 21st, in four hours he had finished his work there, and he was able to leave BC on 22 May to return to Kathmandu. He made no attempt to scale Lhotse.

  Mondinelli had one climbing Sherpa with him:
    Ngima/Nima Sherpa, 2/12/72, Sikli, Jubing-9, Solu, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X4


expid: LHOT09110
peakid: LHOT
year: 2009
route1: W Face
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Everest Expedition 2009
ascent1: 140
countries: USA
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2009-04-16
smtdate: 2009-05-22
smttime: 0805
termdate: 2009-05-27
campsites: BC(16/04,5400m),C2(29/04,6400m),C3(02/05,7200m),C4(21/05,7800m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  Team left C4 at 4 am on 22 May. Weather was clear and calm. Rope had been fixed by Kazakh Lhotse-Everest Traverse team. A few days before, however Nima had to redo some of the anchors as they did not look very solid. When they got to summit the wind had picked up. They spent about 15 minutes on summit. Descent difficult due to high winds and white-out. They got to C4 at 10:30 am and continued to descend to C2, where they arrived at 2:30 pm. Following day, Miller descended to BC. Nima stayed at C2 to take down the camp.

  Nima Tshering had already summited Mount Everest on 5 May with David Tait as part of Himex.


expid: LHOT09111
peakid: LHOT
year: 2009
route1: W Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Young-Mi
sponsor: 2009 Korea Lhotse Expedition
ascent1: 134
approach: Lukla->Phakding->Namche->Tengboche->Pheriche->Lobuche
bcdate: 2009-04-12
smtdate: 2009-05-20
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2009-05-23
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),C1(18/04,6000m),C2(19/04,6500m),C3(29/04,7100m),C4(19/05,8000m),Smt(20/05)
agency: NE-KO Treks
routememo:
  Kim and Mingma left C4 at 2:40 am on 20 May, reached summit [just after] 11 am, stayed on summit about 30 minutes, descended to C4 at 3:30 pm, slept there. Descended to C2. On 21 May and 22 May to BC. There were three climbers on summit before her and about 10 climbers behind her. On summit day weather was very good. She returned to Kathmandu on 25 May and will leave on 1 June.

  Sherpa:
    Mingma Dorje Sherpa, Tashigaon, Makalu-5, 30/8/80 (14/5/2037) Everest X2, Makalu X1


expid: LHOT09112
peakid: LHOT
year: 2009
route1: W Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Joo Jung-Soo
sponsor: Incheon 2009 Everest Expedition
ascent1: 133
approach: Lukla->Phakding->Namche->Tengboche->Pheriche->Lobuche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2009-03-30
smtdate: 2009-05-20
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2009-05-23
othersmts: Climbed Everest (EVER-091-73)
campsites: BC(30/03,5400m),C1(18/04,6200m),C2(26/04,6500m),C3(30/04,7225m),C4(19/05,7800m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal
primid: EVER09173
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 above the Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 on Lhotse West Face.

  Shin started from C4 at 8:30 pm of 19 May, reached summit at 11 am, stayed on summit for 30 minutes, descended to C2 at 8 pm same day. Next day to BC. Summit day weather was very good.

  Regarding other members of the expedition:

  Cheon who was suppose to climb Lhotse and Everest had accident in Korea and could not join the expedition. 

  The expedition leader Joo stayed in BC. 

  Another member Whang, who was suppose to climb Lhotse and Everest, did not try on Lhotse but summited Everest. 

  Members Kang, Kim Jun-Woo, Kim Kwang-Jun, Kim Myung-Sun, Kwae, Lee Jung-Ho, Lee Won-Ruk, Sung, Yoo including climbing leader Jun touched C2 but did not sleep there. They were exhausted. 

  The initial plan was to have five Sherpas to work on both mountains but the five Sherpas worked only with Everest team. So there was no Sherpas working for Lhotse team.


expid: MAK209101
peakid: MAK2
year: 2009
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kumio Hiramatsu
sponsor: Japanese on Kangchungtse
approach: Tumlingtar->Chichila->Num->Yangla Kharka
bcdate: 2009-04-22
smtdate: 2009-05-09
termdate: 2009-05-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7337m due to bad weather and frostbite
campsites: BC(22/04,4900m),C1(08/05,6000m),C2(03/05,6800m),xxx(09/05,7337m)
accidents: Frostbite on two toes of both feet of Hiramatsu
agency: Peak Summit Trek
routememo:
  Hiramatsu and Sherpas went up for C3 which they planned to put up at 7400m, but due to snowfall they had to turn around from 7337m to C2 on 9 May. On 10 May they descended to BC. 

  On 15 May Hiramatsu left BC by helicopter to Kathmandu. He planned to leave Kathmandu either on 27 or 28  May. Hiramatsu does not speak English. I met him at hotel while he was waiting for Sherpa to go to hospital for his frostbitten toes. The information was give by Ang Kami over telephone on 12 Sept.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Kami, 21/8/82 (5/5/2039), Gudel-5, Solu
      Summited Everest north in 2004 with Japanese, in 2005 Indian Police 
      and in 2006 with ITBP, Lhotse in 2007 with DCXP team
    Da Phuri, 25/11/85 (10/8/2042), Gudel-5
    Lhakpa Sherpa, 26/11/82 (11/8/2039), Rakha Bangdel-5, Khotang, Kangch 25/5/08
    Pema Tshiri, 3/10/72 (17/6/2029), Gudel-4


expid: MAKA09101
peakid: MAKA
year: 2009
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Mick Parker
sponsor: Aussie-Anglo Makalu 2009
ascent1: 115
countries: UK
bcdate: 2009-04-07
smtdate: 2009-05-21
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2009-05-23
campsites: BC(07/04,5650m),C1(13/04,6500m),C2(30/04,7300m),C3(20/05,7900m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Summit team left C3 at 6 am. They left so late as they did not have a working stove, so brewing water took a long time. Weather was warm and calm. They used rope fixed by Koreans, spent 20 min on summit. Descended to C3, arrived at about 7 pm. On 22 May C1 where they were hit by a storm on 23 May BC.

  Hudson reached 7300m on 30 April, which was supposed to be first summit push. They abandoned it due to high winds. They spent two nights at C2 and then returned to BC. Back at BC Hudson decided that he had to leave as he had to go back to work. He left BC on 16 May.

  Michael Parker died 4 June in Kathmandu from edema after returning from Makalu.


expid: MAKA09102
peakid: MAKA
year: 2009
route1: W Pillar (to 6500m)
route2: Makalu La-NW Ridge (to 7500m)
nation: USA
leaders: Steve House
sponsor: American Makalu Expedition
bcdate: 2009-05-01
smtdate: 2009-05-19
termdate: 2009-05-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(01/05,4800m),Biv1(17/05,5600m),Biv2(18/05,6600m),xxx(19/05,7500m)
accidents: House pulmonary edema; Richards injured knee
agency: Adventure Thamserku
routememo:
  BC below Barun Pokhari
  High point above the Makalu La on NW Ridge.

  The team was supposed to have three members, but one, Ms Melissa Arnot, was delayed on Everest and never got to Makalu BC. That left the two men, Steve House and Cory Richards, and they climbed much of the time and sometimes together. They had no climbing Sherpas with them, and they established no fixed camps above BC.

  House trekked in with his girl friend; Richards was the first to arrive at BC and on 1 May set up camp alone at 4800m south of Barun Pokhari in the area of the Hillary BC. He then proceeded to do some climbing via the normal route which leads up the Chago Glacier to the Makalu La and the NW Ridge. On 5 May he went from BC to near the bottom end of the Chago Glacier at 5600m, the normal BC site for Makalu's normal NW Ridge route, and bivouacked there. Next day he moved up the Glacier to his next bivouac at 6300m, and on the 7th, he climbed farther up the Glacier to bivouac at 6600m at the beginning of the steep section below the Makalu La. On the 9th he was back in BC to meet House.

  On the 7th, House had left his girl friend at BC and bivouacked at 5600m on moraine in a cirque of rock east of the Chago Glacier and west of the West Pillar. The next day he continued up to bivouac at 6500m at the bergschrund at the bottom of the West Face.

  But on the 9th House developed pulmonary edema and descended to BC. He was "quite sick," said Richards, "but functioning Ok." He stayed at BC a few days, then descended to Yangla Kharka village on the 13th to recover.

  On the 17th, Richards moved up alone again to 5600m, the normal BC site where he had been on the 5th, bivouacked there and rested there on the 18th. He wanted to go for the summit alone. He left 5600m on the 19th at 10:00 am and reached 6600m, where he had earlier left a tent, at 2:00 pm, fixed some soup, left 6600m at 5:00 pm, reached the Makalu La (7400m) and continued up on the NW Ridge to 7500m at 9:00 pm. This turned out to be the highest point reached by the pair.

  It was a pitch black night and he was alone, so he then turned back and descended all the way to 6600m because there was no other team's tent at the Makalu La. He got to 6600m at midnight. At 5:00 am on the 20th, he started down again and at 7:30 am arrived at 5600m, where he met House.

  House now climbed alone up to 6600m at about 11:00 am on the normal route to the Makalu La while Richards returned to BC at 9:00 am. On the 21st, House got to the Makalu La, descended all the way to BC and joined Richards there.

  24 May started snowing, dumping one and a half meters of snow at BC. They now abandoned any idea of scaling the West Pillar, but still wanted to climb the mountain. On the 28th at 3:00 am, the two men left BC together on the snow's crust to go up the normal NW Ridge route. When they arrived at 5200m at 5:00 am, the crust was longer supporting their weight and they now sometimes crawled on it, other times walked, sinking into the snow up to and even above their waists. They found a cache of gear House had left at 5600m, then with this gear managed to get to the place at 5600m on the normal route where Richards had bivouacked before. It was now 1:30 pm; they had taken ten and half hours to cover a distance that normally took three and a half hours. They bivouacked there.

  On the 29th, they started up at 5:00 am and at 7:30 am reached the place at 5900m where Richards had left a cache. His cache was full of snow, and they finally gave up. They were back in BC at 10:00 pm. Just before they got to BC, Richards fell into a hole full of snow and injured his left knee. The next day his knee was stiff and became swollen. They called a helicopter to evacuate them.

  Because of bad weather conditions, the helicopter couldn't reach them until 1 June. It dropped them at the helipad at the Tribhuwan University Teaching Hospital. There was time for just one X-ray to be taken before the power went off; the diagnosis was that the soft tissue of his knee had been damaged. Because there was a general strike in Kathmandu, they had to hire ambulance to take them to their hotel.


expid: MAKA09103
peakid: MAKA
year: 2009
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Shekhar Babu Bachinepally
sponsor: Makalu Expedition 2009
approach: Tumlingtar->Bhotebase->Num->Sedua->Tashgar->Dobato->Ange->Merak
bcdate: 2009-04-07
smtdate: 2009-05-09
termdate: 2009-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to bad weather and later left knee pain due to extended ligament
campsites: BC(07/04,4700m),ABC(10/04,5700m),C1(15/04,6100m),C2(19/04,6900m),C3(06/05,7400m),xxx(09/05,7600m)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Bachinepally on his first attempt started from C3 at 11 am on 8 May with Lhakpa Sherpa. They arrived at 7600m, very strong wind started picking up then turned around to C3 and next day to BC. 

  On his second attempt went to C1 on 17 May with Lhakpa and slept there. They had to go down to BC as Bachinepally suffered from his left knee pain. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 28 May by helicopter and will leave on 5 June.

  Fixed rope: 400m between C2 to C3.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Dendi Sherpa, 22/11/74 (07/08/2031), Gudel-9, Makalu 18/5/08


expid: MAKA09104
peakid: MAKA
year: 2009
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Sweden
leaders: Fredrik Strang
sponsor: Swedish Makalu Expedition
ascent1: 113
approach: Tumlingtar
bcdate: 2009-04-12
smtdate: 2009-05-02
smttime: 1025
termdate: 2009-05-05
othersmts: Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-091-03)
campsites: BC(12/04,5670m),C1(15/04,6600m),C2(30/04,7400m),C3(01/05,7500m),Smt(02/05)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  Summit team left C3 at 10:30 pm on 1 May. Skies clear, no wind, but very cloudy. There was snow on trail as tracks of South Korean were blown over by wind. Route finding of last section difficult. They spent 15 minutes on summit. At noon it started snowing. They descended to C4, arrived at 5 pm. On 3 May they descended to BC, it took them 8 hours. 

  On 6 May Chhiring, Pasang, Strang and Hallstrom flew from Yangri Kharka to Kathmandu by helicopter. They stayed in Kathmandu for a few days before they flew to Lukla on 11 May to climb Lhotse.

  Sherpas:
    Tshering/Chhiring Dorje, Beding, 25/10/74, Everest X9, Cho Oyu X4, Manaslu X1, 
      Xixa X1
    Phurba Temba, Furtemba Sherpa, Gaurishankar-3, 11/10/84, Cho Oyu 2006
    Pasang Lama Bhote, Hatiya-1, Makalu, 17/10/84 (2041/7/1), Lhotse 2008, 
      Manaslu 2008


expid: MAKA09105
peakid: MAKA
year: 2009
route1: W Face-Makalu La (to 7400m)
route2: W Pillar (to 6700m)
nation: Spain
leaders: Juan Vallejo
sponsor: Makalu West Pillar Expedition
bcdate: 2009-04-14
smtdate: 2009-04-29
termdate: 2009-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to very strong wind
othersmts: Climbed Baruntse (BARU-091-05)
campsites: BC(14/04,5300m),xxx(29/04,7400m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
primid: BARU09105
routememo:
  High point at Makalu La from West Face.

  The team went to Baruntse first, as a warm up for tackling the West Pillar of Makalu, their ultimate goal. They made their BC on 14 April to serve their climbs on both mountains at 5300m, just northwest of the junction of the Chago and Barun Glaciers, not far from low base camps for Makalu expeditions.

  From their BC, Inuarteggi, Vallejo and Zabalza went southwest to Sherpani Col and bivouacked there at 6100m on 22 April. On the 23rd they moved northwest of their first bivvy site and bivouacked at 6500m west-southwest of point 6730m, called Peak 4, at the top end of the Lower Barun Glacier.

  They left the bivouac at 8:00 am on 24 April and all three were on the summit of Baruntse at 11:00 am via the SE Ridge, then back in BC at 5:00 pm.

  Next they went to Makalu to acclimatize further via its standard route, which goes up the West Face to the Makalu La before turning right onto the NW Ridge. The three men bivouacked at 6700m on the 28th and on the Makalu La at 7400m on the 29th. On the 30th they returned to BC.

  Now for their summit bid via the difficult West Pillar. On 6 May they went to 6500m and bivouacked there at the base of the pillar. But fierce winds sent them back to BC on the 7th to wait for the wind to drop. They tried again on the 15th, when they bivouacked at 6500m. The next day they climbed only 200m higher before the wind drove them back again to BC two wait some more for the strength of the wind to lessen.

  But it did not lessen, so they gave up on 22 May. They left BC the same day to return to Kathmandu.


expid: MAKA09106
peakid: MAKA
year: 2009
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Neeraj Rana
sponsor: Indian Makalu Expedition
ascent1: 114
countries: Bangladesh
approach: Tumlingtar
bcdate: 2009-04-15
smtdate: 2009-05-19
smttime: 0645
termdate: 2009-05-20
campsites: BC(15/04,5600m),C1(27/04,6500m),C2(28/04,6900m),C3(10/05,7600m),Smt(19/05)
accidents: Thakur's fall, apparently causing his death
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Summit team left C3 at 9 pm on 18 May. Weather was clear. They spent about 15 minutes on summit on 19 May. Descended to BC where they arrived at 5 pm except Sharma, who spent night at C2.

  Bhutia reached 7900m on 19 May; he turned back due to problems with his oxygen regulator.

  Bisht reached C1; he did not acclimatize well so he abandoned his climb.

  Hussain reached C1 on 27 April; he abandoned climb due to fatigue.

  Jha reached C2 on 28 April, stayed the night to acclimatize; he ran out of time. 

  Lagwal reached C3 on 10 May, was stuck in blizzard for three days; returned to BC on 13 May. Thakur, Rana, Sherpa & Bhutia were with him. They all descended to BC. Linyu reached C3 and stuck in same blizzard.


  Indian Everest expedition, Neeraj Rana - 30 May & 21 June 2009

  The expedition was formally called the Joint India-Bangladesh Makalu Expedition 2009, but the only Bangladeshi member, Khaled Hussain, was a BC member, did no real climbing and left early.

  The successful summiters were Dogra, Jalal, Sharma, Kusang Dorje Sherpa, who is Indian, and Nepalese Sherpas Serap Jangbu, Dorchi, Lhakpa Ongyal, Nima, and two Pasangs. Serap Jangbu left for the top from C2 at 9:00 pm on 18 May, summited at 6:45 am on 19 May, and descended to ABC at 2:00 pm the same day (according to information he gave to Jeevan Shrestha in late May). The others left C4 at 6:45 pm on 18 May and summited together at 6:45 pm on 18 may and summited together at 6:45 am on 19 May. 

  Thakur fell on 1 or 2 May when he was between C2 and C3, but said he was not badly hurt. He descended to BC to rest and seemed all right. He even climbed again to C3 on 11-12 May. But back in BC on the 16th, he refused to eat or drink anything. He was stuck at BC by a three-day blizzard, and by the time a helicopter could evacuate him and the team's doctor from Shershon, below BC, to Kathmandu on the 19th, he was unconscious. He died in hospital on 24 May. The autopsy performed in Kathmandu gave the cause of death as intra-cerebral hemorrhage; the report found "pneumonia in left lung and cerebral edema with intra-cerebral hemorrhage in both hemispheres of the brain." It also mentions "punctuate abrasions in right side of the neck" and frostbite in fingertips.

  There were plans for more members to go to the summit after the blizzard had passed, but news of Thakur's death in Kathmandu put an end to those ideas.

  Oxygen was used by all summiters including Sherpas above C3 to the top to C3.

  Nepalese Sherpas
    Dorchi Sherpa, 1/12/79 (15/8/2036), Walung, Makalu-9, Lhotse X1, Makalu X1
    Lhakpa Ongyal/Wangel, 19/8/66, Nurbugaon, Makalu-9, Makalu X1, Manaslu X1, 
      Everest X1
    Nima Sherpa, 14/2/77, Makalu-5, Everest X1
    Pasang Sherpa, 20/2/1983, Balakharka, Makalu, Everst X3, Cho Oyu X1
    Pasang Sherpa, 10/7/76 (27/3/2033), Siddhapokhari, Kerabari, Sankhuwasabha, 
      Everest X2
    Serap Jangbu, 25/7/69, Khumjung, Everest X3, plus eight other 8000ers


expid: MAKA09107
peakid: MAKA
year: 2009
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Mexico
leaders: Jorge Salazar
sponsor: Makalu 2008
countries: Spain
bcdate: 2009-04-16
smtdate: 2009-05-18
termdate: 2009-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to very strong wind
othersmts: Climbed Baruntse (BARU-091-07)
campsites: BC(16/04,5700m),C1(19/04,6250m),C2(21/04,6670m),C3(27/04,7568m),xxx(18/05,7800m)
accidents: Tashi Lhakpa stomach problem
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C3 at Makalu La.

  After establishing C2 on 21 April, the three members went down to BC on 22nd to rest. They went back up to C1 on the 25th, to C2 on the 26th, on the 27th established C3 at the Makalu La at 7568m, and on the 28th returned to BC again to rest.

  They set out from BC once again on 7 May and went directly to C2. On the 8th they climbed to C3. On the 9th Garcia and Tashi Lhakpa proceeded to the C4 [site] while the other two members retreated to BC because of the wind. Garcia and Tashi rejoined them in BC on the 10th.

  Finally, they made one more attempt to gain the summit. The three members plus Pasang Temba left BC for C2 on 16 May. They got to C3 on the 17th, and that night they left the camp for a summit push. At 4:00 am on 18 May they had been able to get to only 7800m, where they were hit by fierce wind and low visibility. They were forced to retreat back to C3 and on down to BC. The climb was finished.

  The expedition's only health problem was stomach trouble that struck Tashi Lhakpa. He left the team on 14 May, returned to BC a week later but did not go above BC again.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Temba, 20/1/83 (6/10/2039), Makalu-5, Sankhuwasabha
    Tashi Lhakpa, 18/11/85, Mathilow, Makalu-5, Everest X4, Lhotse X1


expid: MAKA09109
peakid: MAKA
year: 2009
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Jae-Soo
sponsor: Colon Sport Challenge Team Makalu Expedition
ascent1: 112 w/S Kor (Lee)
approach: Tumlingtar->Num->Sedua->Tashigaon->Koma->Mumbruk->Tatasha->Tongmang
bcdate: 2009-04-07
smtdate: 2009-05-01
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2009-05-04
othersmts: Climbed Kangchenjunga (KANG-091-07) and Dhaulagiri I (DHA1-092-01)
campsites: BC(07/04,5600m),ABC(11/04,6000m),C1(14/04,6600m),C2(29/04,7350m),C3(30/04,7600m),Smt(01/05)
agency: Advance BC Trekking/NE-KO Treks
routememo:
  Kim, Go, two members of other Korean (Ulsan) expedition, Mingma Tshering and Sona left C3 at 11:10 pm on 30 April for summit. Kim and Go along with other Korean team members and three shared Sherpas reached the summit at 10:30 am on 1 May. They stayed on summit for about 30 minutes, descended to C3 at 3 pm, slept there. Next day to BC. Summit day weather was very good, no wind, no clouds. No other team summited on that day. 

  Other member Mun left BC on 25 April due to severe toothache. He climbed up to 7000m below C2 on 19 April; he returned to Kathmandu on around 30 April and left Kathmandu on 7 May. 

  Kim and Go returned to Kathmandu on 24 May.

  Sherpas:
    Tshering Dorje Sherpa, 12/10/81 (26/06/2038), Chheskam-2, Makalu X1, Lhotse X1, 
      Cho Oyu X1
    Sona Sherpa, 27/11/77 (11/08/2034), Chheskam-2

    Plus one Sherpa from other S Korean team.


expid: MAKA09108
peakid: MAKA
year: 2009
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Sang-Ho
sponsor: 2009 Hope Makalu Expedition
ascent1: 112 w/S Kor (Kim)
approach: Tumlingtar->Mane Bhanjyang->Chilchile->Num->Sedua->Tashigaon
bcdate: 2009-04-05
smtdate: 2009-05-01
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2009-05-05
campsites: BC(05/04,5600m),ABC(09/04,6000m),C1(11/04,6500m),C2(28/04,7400m),C3(29/04,7800m),Smt(01/05)
agency: Advance BC Trekking
routememo:
  Kang, Yun, Mingma, Tshering and Sona along with Kim and Miss Go of Kolon Sport expedition left C3 at about 11:30 pm of 30 April. They reached the summit around 10:30 am of 1 May. They stayed on summit for about 30 minutes. Yun descended to C3 at about 5 pm. Kang went down to C2 where he reached about 6 pm. Sherpas and Yun slept at C3. Next day all the climbers reached BC. 

  Cho high point was C1 on 12 April; low stamina.
   
  Han and Lee Dong-Dae high points were 7400m. 

  Kim Suk-Jun went up to C1; he was supposed to remain there.
   
  Kim Young-Tae, left expedition due to stomach problem and arrived Korea on 6 May; he climbed up to C1. 

  Leader Lee slept at C2. 

  During the climb the weather was very good. The team returned to Kathmandu on 9 May.

  The team shared three Sherpas with Kim Jae-Soo.

  Fixed rope: 2000m between C1 and C3.

  Sherpas:
    Mingmar Tamang, 23/9/64 (8/6/2021), Piranding, Kerung-1, Solu, Cho Oyu 5/10/00

    Plue two Sherpas from other S Korean team.


expid: MANA09101
peakid: MANA
year: 2009
route1: NE Face
nation: Portugal
leaders: Joao Garcia
sponsor: Manaslu 2009
countries: Belgium, France
bcdate: 2009-03-20
smtdate: 2009-04-28
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2009-05-01
campsites: BC(20/03,4874m),C1(04/04,5722m),C2(13/04,7000m),Smt(28/04)
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  Garcia was the only member who stayed long enough to make a summit attempt. Baia was at BC only three days, developed altitude sickness and left. Fohal reached C2 on 5 April in an acclimatization climb and returned to BC as planned. On 9 April there was a huge avalanche at BC; it didn't hurt them, but it frightened Fohal, and he left the team on 12 April. Perrier decided to leave with him; Perrier's wife was pregnant, and Fohal's departure gave him the stimulus to go too.

  Garcia had put his C2 higher than the other team's C2 because he felt that the normal site was too prone to being hit by avalanches. He pitched his camp at 7000m on the 13th and went back to BC on the 14th.

  In his summit push he moved up from C1 to C2 on 26 April. He postponed his climb to the top by one day so he could take time to inspect the next 200-300m of fixed rope that was left from the previous autumn. A Sherpa with the Spanish climber Carlos Pauner, some Italians from Mario Merelli's team and Garcia found the old ropes in very good condition.

  The next day, the 28th, Garcia, Pauner, Merelli, another Italian, South Korean leader Kim - Jea-Soo, and a Sherpa with Kim were the first to go for the summit that morning. Kim and his Sherpa had left their C2 at 22:00 on the 27th because of the long distance to the summit; Garcia and the others set out at 2:00 am on 28 April.

  The wind got strong at about noon and clouds moved in. Garcia had started out with the Italians but soon got ahead of them and reached the top alone at about 11:00 am. He had climbed across a large snowfield with cornices from 7000m to 7200m, blue ice from 7200m to 7500m and again to 8100m, over bare rock from 8100m to perhaps 8140m, and finally onto the snow-covered summit. (Above the large snowfield, there was no useable old ropes, and none had yet been fixed this season.)

  Garcia stayed for 20 minutes on the summit taking video pictures. He descended through his C2 to collect his gear, to C1 to have a drink, and to BC, where he returned after dark at 7:00 pm, and where he saw in his pictures that his nose was swollen and discolored. It was initially black but only the top layer of his skin had frozen, and by the time he had reached Kathmandu, it was brown and peeling.

  Garcia had fixed 400m of rope early in his climb, but all of it was lost in a big snowstorm of 5 April. It was replaced by other expedition who arrived after him. Three of his tents were destroyed while he was on the mountain, and a big tent collapsed under the weight of the snow covering it.


expid: MANA09102
peakid: MANA
year: 2009
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Carlos Pauner
sponsor: Spanish Manaslu Expedition
bcdate: 2009-04-05
smtdate: 2009-04-28
termdate: 2009-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 8110m due to wind, deep snow, fatigue and Perez frostbite
campsites: BC(05/04,4850m),C1(12/04,5700m),C2(20/04,6400m),C3(26/04,7100m),xxx(28/04,8110m)
accidents: Perez frostbitten toes
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  "In all the years I've come to climb in Nepal, I've never seen so much snowfall," said Pauner on 14 May. "This mountain is for April." Camps 2 and 3 must have disappeared by now under the fresh snowfall, he believes; he left BC by helicopter on the 13th, and BC had gotten two meters of snow. Their BC had been covered by an avalanche on 8 May. "We were very lucky" not to have been hurt by it.

  The three-member team established C2 at 6400m on 20 April. The crevasses and avalanching and steepness of the route had by now frightened Sanmartin; the next day he left the expedition and went home.

  Pauner, Perez and Pemba Dorje Sherpa made their bid for the summit from C3 on 28 April together with Italians led by Mario Merelli. They all started up at 2:00 am and made slow progress because there were no fixed ropes in place; it was already 9:00 am when they reached the final col, which was covered by hard green ice. Perez turned back 100m above the col because he thought it was getting too late for a summit success. He descended to C3 and waited there for Pauner.

  Pauner and Pemba Dorje continued climbing towards the summit. They stopped at about 8110m in a small valley between two false summits. The wind had gotten strong and it was now 4:00 pm. They rejoined Perez in C3; there were no sleeping bags in the camp, so they kept descending late into the night and reached BC at 2:00 am of the 29th.

  In BC Perez now discovered that toes on his right foot had become frostbitten. There were two doctors at BC who were experts on frostbite, and they gave him medication to minimize the damage. The toes are not black, and he hopes they will heal fully, but there is a possibility that their bones have been affected, which could lead to gangrene; they will have to watched during the coming weeks.

  Pauner wanted to go back up the mountain and go to the real summit. He waited in BC hoping for better weather, and on 7 May he and Pemba Dorje climbed up to C2. But while they were in it, their tent was crushed under the weight of newly falling snow. Pauner had to call out for help to get out of the tent. Japanese climbers came to his assistance, and they spent the rest of the night with the Japanese. They went back to BC on the 8th.

  Again, Pauner waited for improvement in the weather. But by the 12th, when the weather had not gotten any better, he decided to abandon the climb. They left BC for Kathmandu on the 13th in a helicopter because of Perez's frostbitten toes.

  They had planned to go to Lhotse after Manaslu, but now Pauner was too tired and Perez couldn't climb with him. Plan abandoned.

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Dorje (aka "Pemba Junge", Junge means moustache), 1/8/70 (17/4/2027),
      Kharikhola, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1 (had been on Manaslu several times 
      before and knew the route very well)


expid: MANA09103
peakid: MANA
year: 2009
route1: NE Face
nation: Chile
leaders: Rodrigo Fica
sponsor: Fica Expedition 2009 to Manaslu
approach: Arughat->Machha Khola->Lirung->Tatopani->Philim->Namrung->Samagaon
bcdate: 2009-04-20
smtdate: 2009-05-15
termdate: 2009-05-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to bad weather, deep snow
campsites: BC(20/04,4700m),C1(24/04,5700m),C2(28/04,6400m),C3(07/05,6700m),xxx(15/05,6700m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Fica started his summit push arriving C1 on 15 May, C2 on 16 May, C3 on 17 May. There was heavy snowfall. His tents were buried under deep snow and broken. He descended to BC on 18 May at 11:30 pm. Fica returned to Kathmandu on 25 May.


expid: MANA09104
peakid: MANA
year: 2009
route1: NE Face
nation: Bulgaria
leaders: Petar Unzniev
sponsor: A Bulgarian on Manaslu
approach: Arughat->Philim->Namrung->Samagaon
bcdate: 2009-04-16
smtdate: 2009-04-21
termdate: 2009-05-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to weakness (sick with stomach disorder fever)
campsites: BC(16/04,4800m),C1(19/04,5800m),C2(20/04,6300m),C3(21/04,6800m),xxx(21/04,6800m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Unzniev in process on acclimatization went up to C3 on 21 April and slept there. Earlier when he reached BC he was suffering from fever and stomach disorder. He had antibiotics and was weak. He was climbing without Sherpa and oxygen. While he was in C3, he felt that he was not fit enough to continue his climb so he gave up. Unzniev returned to Kathmandu on 4 May and will leave on 7 May.


expid: MANA09105
peakid: MANA
year: 2009
route1: NE Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Hong Bo-Seong
sponsor: Dynamic Busan 2009 Expedition to Manaslu Dhaulagiri
approach: Arkhet->Machha Khola->Jagat->Deng->Namrung->Samagaon
bcdate: 2009-03-30
smtdate: 2009-04-28
smttime: 0850
termdate: 2009-04-29
othersmts: Climbed Dhaulagiri I (DHA1-091-04)
campsites: BC(30/03,4800m),C1(03/04,5800m),C2(04/04,6400m),C3(13/04,6900m),Smt(28/04)
accidents: Karma Gyalzen suffered from stomach pain in C2 and left for Kathmandu on 14 April
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  Kim, Seo and Lhakpa Tshering left C3 on 27 April at 10 pm. They arrived to the summit at 8:50 am on 28 April. The team descended to BC at 6 pm same day. Summit day weather was good but windy (northern wind) and it was -30 degrees. While descending from summit the team met Portuguese climber Garcia at about 7800m going up for summit. The team was followed by other climbers from Italy, Spain, Russia and few others but they turned around to C3. The team returned to Kathmandu on 30 April by helicopter from Samagaon. The expedition team plans to go to Dhaulagiri and waiting for favourable weather forecast in the Dhaulagiri region. 

  Hong climbed up to C1 on 2 April but did not sleep there, left 6 May for Dhaulagiri. Rest of the time he stayed in BC. 

  Nam slept in C2 on 4 April; he did not try for summit because he was slow.

  Fixed rope between C1 & C2.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Tshering, 15/6/75 (01/03/2032), Khumjung, Everest X4, Annapurna I X1, 
      Cho Oyu X1, Manaslu X1
    Karma Gyalzen, 5/11/80 (20/10/2037), Siburje, Waku-4, Solu


expid: MANA09106
peakid: MANA
year: 2009
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Inma Garrido
sponsor: Expedicion Mujer Andalucia 2009 to Manaslu
approach: Arughat
bcdate: 2009-04-12
smtdate: 2009-05-19
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2009-05-22
campsites: BC(12/04,4800m),C1(19/04,5700m),C2(22/04,6300m),C3(22/04,6740m),C4(18/05,7400m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Bochi Bochi Treks
routememo:
  Summit team and Quesada left C4 at 1 am. Weather was calm, very icy. Quesada turned back 30 minutes after departure at about 7500m. The conditions were too icy for her. Ascent straightforward. There was some fixed rope from Japanese team just before the plateau near summit. They stopped at Col. They descended to C4, arrived at 4 pm. Next day to BC.

  Gomez reached C3 at 8 May. She had problems with her eyes and descended to BC after two nights. She was helicoptered to Kathmandu from BC at 10 May. Lopez was expedition doctor and remained at BC.

  On 28 April Giuseppe from Italian team arrived at their camp at 7 am. He was on his own and complained of chest pain. They gave him water and when they noticed that he was extremely unwell. Quesada, Gonzalez and Gomez lowered him to C2 where they put him into a tent of Swiss team. Bruno, leader of Swiss team, took over to look after him, however Giuseppe died in the evening.

  They also met Laurent Terrey and Stephanie (France) during their expedition. They seemed to have had an argument as one night Stephanie stayed in tent with Spaniards as she was thrown out by Laurent. According to Quesada, Stephanie was then given "exile" by Swiss expedition.

  Sherpas:
    Chhepi Bhote, Hatiya, Makalu, 30/9/74, Makalu 2004, Everest 2006 & 2007
    Keshab Gurung, Laprak-4, Gorkha, 31/3/79


expid: MANA09107
peakid: MANA
year: 2009
route1: NE Face
nation: Iran
leaders: Mahdi Amidi
sponsor: Manaslu Expedition
bcdate: 2009-04-11
smtdate: 2009-04-28
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2009-05-01
campsites: BC(11/04,4850m),C1(14/04,5700m),C2(18/04,6400m),C3(26/04,6900m),C4(27/04,7150m),Smt(28/04)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  On 28 April Hadad, Pahnaedarman and Mingma left C4 at 3 am for summit. Amidi left C4 at 4 am. Pahnaedarman's fingers started getting cold when he arrived at 7700m and turned around with Mingma to C4. Hadad turned around from 8050m since the fixed line ends at this point. Hadad could not climb without fixed line. Amidi continued towards summit where he arrived at 4 pm. He found on summit a rope was anchored on a stone. Amidi returned to C4 at 7 pm. He spent about 15 minutes on summit. Weather was good little windy and cloud comes and goes away. The team descended to C1 on 29 and to BC on 30 April. Mahdi Yar had to leave BC on 15 April. 

  Fixed rope: 200m contributed.

  Sherpa:
    Mingma Dorje, 22/7/63 (7/4/2020), Kharikhola, no 8000ers


expid: MANA09108
peakid: MANA
year: 2009
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
sponsor: Paulo Manaslu Expedition
bcdate: 2009-04-30
smtdate: 2009-05-19
termdate: 2009-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to bad weather
agency: Thamserku Trekking
campsites:
  BC(30/04,4850m),C1(04/05,5350m),C2(05/05,5700m),C3(08/05,6100m),C4(14/05,6350m),C5(16/05,6700m),C6(18/05,7100m),C7(19/05,7450m),xxx(19/05,7600m)

routememo:
  The team approached the mountain by bus to Besisahar, trekked around Manaslu via its west side and Larkya Pass to Samagaon.

  Grobel's policy is to progress up a mountain slowly without descending to lower camps until the end of the climb. To do this, his teams establish more camps than others do. When bad weather strikes, his teams stay in whatever camp they happen to be in at the time. Hence this expedition had seven high camps.

  The expedition made one big for the summit. Damilano, Dupuy, Grobel, Mahou, Odier, Rudolf and Vulin, plus Birkram Sing, Chhotemba Sherpa and Thami Kubir Rai, left C7 at 5:00 am on 20 May and reached 7600m at about 6:00 am. Now bad weather, wind, clouds and snow, was coming, and Grobel decided that they must go down, thus abandoning the climb.

  They had no time to wait for better weather. Rudolf paraglided from C7 to Samagaon, to where their BC had been moved, in half an hour. The other members and Sherpas took two days to get to Samagaon: they descended to C4 that day, and were in Samagaon on 21 May. They left on the 23rd to return to Kathmandu.

  Non-summit team members:

  Bizet reached C3 on 8 May; he had a bad headache, left C3 on the 10th and the expedition on the 14th.

  Valleise went to C2 on the 7th, but an old neck injury was causing him pain; he returned to BC the same day and left the expedition on the 10th.

  Nepalese climbers:
    Bikram Sing, 28/5/81, Gangaparaspur-6, Dang, no 8000ers
    Chhotemba Sherpa, 
      29/9/84 he says; 5/10/84 according to Himalayan Database, 
      Densichhungbu he says, Grobel thinks Walung, Database says Nurbugaon, 
      all agree Makalu-9, no 8000ers
    Thami Kubir Rai, 23/8/75 (7/5/2032), Bung-7, Solu, no 8000ers


expid: MANA09109
peakid: MANA
year: 2009
route1: NE Face
nation: Bulgaria
leaders: Doychin Vasilev
sponsor: Bulgarian Manaslu Expedition 2009
bcdate: 2009-04-20
smtdate: 2009-05-08
termdate: 2009-05-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to bad weather and destruction of all tents
campsites: BC(20/04,7750m),C1(22/08,5700m),C2(27/04,6400m),C3(08/05,6800m),xxx(08/05,6800m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  The team never got above C3. They made the camp at 6800m on 8 May and the next day they descended to BC since their acclimatization was completed and the weather didn't look good. On the 10th, 11th and 12th there was heavy snowfall, which broke all expedition's tents in C1 and C2.

  When they returned to C1 on 14 May, Vasilev and his daughter found their tent after two hours search. It was badly broken, so they returned to BC the same day and their climb was over. They had no more tents, and the period they had fixed for climbing ended on the 16th. After their porters arrived, they left BC on the 18th.

  The father and daughter climbed together all the time, and they climbed with the Chilean, Rodrigo Fica. The three shared one tent at C3.


expid: MANA09110
peakid: MANA
year: 2009
route1: NE Face
nation: Russia
leaders: Alexei Bolotov
sponsor: Russian Manaslu Expedition 2009
countries: Georgia
bcdate: 2009-04-11
smtdate: 2009-05-18
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2009-05-20
campsites: BC(11/04,4800m),C1(13/04,5800m),C2(14/04,6400m),C3(20/04,7100m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  The expedition made several attempts to get to the summit. Bolotov made the first one on 29 April, when he left C3 at about 4:00 am and reached 8000m at 11:00 am. He was not acclimatized well enough to continue, and he descended all the way to BC.

  On 8 May, Belous, Bolotov, Chesnokov, Duganov, Gudjabidze, Lutokhin, Sinev, Sololov and Sofyer left C3 at about 1:00 am, but at 3:00 am the wind became very strong and they returned to C3 to sleep until 9:00 am, then retreated to BC.

  The third bid was launched on the 14th from BC to C1, on the 15th to C2 and 16th to C3. On 17 May Bolotov, Duganov and Sokolov started up at 1:00 am, but they had climbed only 50m when the winds came too fierce to battle and they were back in C3 at 2:10 am. Vinogradski had climbed with them to C1; he decided there was too much snow and went back to BC; he had reached 7100m on 29 April to acclimatize. Gujabidze was also with this party but stopped at C2 because he had a bad cough.

  On 18 May the three who gotten only 50m above C3 the day before, Bolotov, Duganov and Sokolov, tried once more. They started up at midnight of the 17th/18th and finally summited at 10:00 am. The wind now was not very strong. They went all the way down to BC on the 19th and the expedition's climb was finished.

  Members who left early:

  Belous had gotten to a high point of 7400m on 30 April; he left on 14 May because of the strong wind.

  Bystrova reached C3 on 30 April, was not strong enough to go higher, and left on 14 May.

  Chesnokov got to C3 on 29 April, did not acclimatize well, and left on 14 May.

  Frolenko got to 7400m on 29 April, also did not acclimatize well and left on 1 or 2 May.

  Lutokhin reached 7250m on 30 April, then decided to leave on 14 May because he thought the weather was so bad that there was no point in staying longer.

  Moskalev reached 7100m on 29 April, left on 14 May because he thought the weather was hopeless for climbing.

  Ilya Rozhkov got to 7400m on 29 April, left on 1 or 2 May he had had enough and the weather looked hopeless.

  Ryzenko same as Rozhkov.

  Sinev same as Lutokhin.

  Sofyer same as Lutokhin.

  Zadokhin went to C2 on about 27 or 28 April but was not in good condition and he left about 3 May.

  One member who did not participate in summit bids but stayed until the end was Eduard Rozhkov. He reached 7100m on 29 April, was not feeling well because of a throat problem and stayed in BC.


expid: MANA09111
peakid: MANA
year: 2009
route1: NE Face
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Jaros Radek
sponsor: High Tech Expedition Manaslu 2009
approach: Arughat->Liding->Jagat->Linag->Namrung->Tatopani
bcdate: 2009-04-11
smtdate: 2009-04-29
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2009-05-01
campsites: BC(11/04,4850m),C1(14/04,5700m),C2(18/04,6400m),C3(17/04,7150m),Smt(29/04)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Radek started at 3:30 am on 29 April from C3 and reached the summit at about 12 noon, stayed on summit for about 10 minutes, descended to C3 at 4 pm. Next day to BC. Radek said that he spent an hour to find out the actual summit. Nobody was on summit on that day. 


expid: MANA09112
peakid: MANA
year: 2009
route1: NE Face
nation: USA
leaders: Nick Rice
sponsor: American Manaslu Expedition
bcdate: 2009-04-04
smtdate: 2009-05-19
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2009-05-25
campsites: BC(04/04,4730m),C1(11/04,5700m),C2(15/04,6300m),C3(27/04,7000m),C4(18/05,7430m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Rice, with Panzeri (Merelli team member), made C4 together 18 May and left for the summit with Panzeri at 1:30 am of the 19th. Rice got to the top at 11:30 am (1-1/2 hours after Panzeri) and returned to C4 at 5:00 pm to stay that night (Panzeri went to BC). Rice descended to BC on 20 May.


expid: MANA09113
peakid: MANA
year: 2009
route1: NE Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Mario Merelli
sponsor: Italian Manaslu Expedition 2009
bcdate: 2009-04-04
smtdate: 2009-05-19
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2009-04-30
campsites: BC(04/04,4890m),C1(12/04,5729m),C2(20/04,6308m),C3(25/04,6984m),C4(18/05,7430m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  On 27 April at 2:00 am, eight members and one Sherpa set out for the summit from C3 but none of them reached the top. They were Guiseppe Antonelli, Tiziano Bertoncini, Simone Botta, Davide Gens, Mario Merelli, Mario Panzeri, Marco Rusconi and Marco Zaffaroni, plus Tshering Jangbu.

  Merelli, Panzeri and Zaffaroni reached the team's highest point on this summit bid at 7900m. Strong winds sent them down to C2 for the night. Rusconi reached 7800m and also went down to C2. Botta, Bertoncini and Gens turned back at 7500m, because of the wind. In his descent, Gens slipped on the ice just above C4, and had it not been for an old broken tent that he grabbed onto, he would have fallen to his death. Gens and Botta slept in C3, Bertonicini went down to C2 to sleep.

  Most of them went down to BC on 29th. Zaffaroni's toes, which had been frostbitten on an earlier climb, were getting very cold, and Rusconi was worried that he might be getting altitude sickness. Rusconi's problem actually was that he was severely dehydrated with very low potassium levels and was put on intravenous fluids for a few hours in C2, to which he had been rescued from close to a Spanish team's C3 by his teammates, Nick Rice, the independent American, and Catalina Quesada, a Spanish team member.

  The Italians summit bid had been defeated by fierce 100 km/hr winds; it was impossible for them to go higher. The route had been covered with deep snow with little fixed rope. When the wind's considerable strength was added to their problems, that was the end of the summit attempt for them that day and for all except Panzeri the end of their climb.

  All the Italians except Panzeri left BC on the 30th. Panzeri did not have the time constraint that the others did, and he still wanted to go to the summit. So did the independent American, Nick Rice, who was on the same permit as the Italians and climbed with them part of the time. Panzeri and Rice now teamed up to make another summit bid together.

  Panzeri left C3 with Rice in their final summit bid on 18 May, and they established C4 at 7430m At 1:30 am of 19 May they moved up from C4; Panzeri reached the summit at 10:00 am and Rice got there at 11:30 am. Panzeri returned to C4 at 2:00 pm and continued down to BC at 6:30 pm. (Rice stopped in C4 for the night).

  Other non-summiting members:

  Antonelli abandoned the summit attempt on 27 April at C3. The climb had become very steep; he had a Sherpa with him, his personal Sherpa, Tshering Jangbu, the only Sherpa above BC with this expedition, but he now had a serious problem breathing. Nick Rice wrote on an email on 7 July, "when we found him wandering below C3 alone" (his Sherpa, Tshering Jangbu, had gone all the way down to C2 without him, knowing he was sick, leaving him without a down jacket or water/food -- he had no backpack).

  "We heard yelling from where we were camped and Lolo (Spanish team member Manuel Gonzalez), Lina (Ms Catalina Quesada) and I went onto the snowfield, slightly up from where the Spanish made their camp 3 (6800m) and helped Antonelli down to their tents, where we offered him water and food and where the Spanish radioed down to thier doctor Miguel (Lopez) in base camp for advice. The doctor recommended an 8 mg injection of Dexamethasone cogitative and knew where and who he was, so clearly didn't have cerebral edema), which Lolo gave him, then Lolo and Lina helped Guiseppe (Antonelli) down to C2. He was put on Japanese oxygen, then he died in my tent in C2 on 28 April. His body was brought to Kathmandu and will be sent to his family in Italy. The Kathmandu autopsy report said that the cause of his death was chronic heart disease.

  Magliano got to 6900-7000m on 27 April, decided to quit, and left BC by helicopter on 28 or 29 April.

  Manni climbed to C1 once, to a point between BC and C1 once, developed a knee problem, and left on 17 or 18 April in a helicopter.

  Sherpa:
    Tshering Jangbu Sherpa, 1/8/77 (17/4/2034), Rakshi Kharka, Lokhim-9, Solu, 
      Lhotse X2 (in spring 2008 with Antonelli to Lhotse's summit), Everest X2, 
      Xixabangma X1


expid: MANA09114
peakid: MANA
year: 2009
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Takaharu Hayashi
sponsor: Karang Kurung Mt. Manaslu Expedition 2009
approach: Arughat->Soti Khola->Machha Khola->Philim->Deng->Namrung->Samagaon
bcdate: 2009-04-26
smtdate: 2009-05-22
termdate: 2009-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(26/04,4850m),C1(01/05,5700m),C2(09/05,6200m),C3(20/05,6700m),C4(21/05,7400m),xxx(22/05,7700m)
accidents: Matsuoka's ribs fractured due to excessive coughing
agency: Lhakpa Sherpa (Bochi Bochi pmt)
routememo:
  Cho, Ikeda, Lhakpa, Pema and Pasang left C4 at midnight of 21 May. When they reached at 7700m at around 4 am, strong wind started picking up. Then the team decided to turn around to C4 and continued to descend to C3 where they reached around 4 pm. Slept there. Next day to BC. 

  Hayashi went down to Samagaon accompanying Matsuoka who had very bad cough. 

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Tenzing, 25/11/81 (10/08/2038), Makalu-9, Manaslu X1
    Lhakpa, 27/4/65 (15/01/2022), Makalu-9, Baruntse X1, Cho Oyu X2
    Pemba Chumpi, 20/8/77 (04/05/2034), Makalu-9


expid: MANA09115
peakid: MANA
year: 2009
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Koiichi Hosokawa
sponsor: Japanese Climber on Manaslu
approach: Arughat->Soti Khola->Machha Khola->Jagat->Nyak->Namrung->Samagaon
bcdate: 2009-04-21
smtdate: 2009-05-19
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2009-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at fore-summit
campsites: BC(21/04,4700m),C1(23/04,5700m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(25/04,6700m),C4(18/05,7500m),ForeSmt(19/05)
agency: Bochi Bochi Treks
routememo:
  Hosokawa and Bir Bahadur started their summit push from C4 at 2 am on 19 May. They reached the summit at 11 am, spent 30 minutes on summit then descended to C4 at 3 pm, slept there. Next day 20 May to BC where they arrived at 9 pm. There was snowfall. Summit day weather was very good, clear sky, no wind. Ahead of Hosokawa there was a Spanish woman on the summit. 

  Bir Bahadur Gurung (aka Bishnu Gurung), 20/09/67, Dharapani-8, Tanahun
    Summited: Baruntse 1997, Makalu 1999, Annapurna IV 2003, 2001, 
    Cho Oyu 2002, 2005, Ama Dablam 2005, 2006, Manaslu 2006, Everest 2008


  Tsunemichi Ikeda - 2 Sept 2010

  Koiichi Hosokawa, an independent climber from Japan, also reached fore-summit on 19 May with a Sherpa.


expid: MANA09116
peakid: MANA
year: 2009
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Kazuyoshi Kondo
sponsor: Japanese to Manaslu
approach: Arughat->Tatopani->Philim->Namrung->Samagaon
bcdate: 2009-04-13
smtdate: 2009-05-19
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2009-05-23
campsites: BC(13/04,4850m),C1(16/04,5750m),C2(21/04,6300m),C3(17/05,6700m),C4(18/05,7400m),Smt(19-20/05)
accidents: Furokawa probably the oldest man on Manaslu
agency: Bochi Bochi Treks
routememo:
  On 19 May, Furukawa, Kazuyoshi Kondo, Kami, Gyalzen, Phurba Bhote, Bibas Gurung started from C4 around 2:0 am. Kondo arrived summit around 10 am, Furukawa and hired other Nepalese within 30 minutes. They stayed on summit about one hour. It was a very good weather, clear sky, no wind. The summiters descended to C4 at 2:30 pm. They had rest at C4 about one and half hours, then went to C3 where they arrived at 7:30 pm, slept there. Next day to BC. On summit day they were 2 climbers ahead of them (maybe Italians). Behind the team were Hosokawa, Spanish and a tall European or American.

  On 20 May, Katsuno, Kenichi Kondo, Kami Singee and Dawa Tenjen started from C4 around 6 am and reached summit around 1:15 pm. They stayed on summit for about 30 minutes, then descended to C4 at 5 pm, slept there. Next day to BC. Summit day weather was not so bad. Before sunrise it was windy. During ascent weather was frequently changing cloudy, windy and clear. There were some other climbers who summited on that day. 

  Kono climbed only up to C3; not enough acclimatization.

  Fixed rope: 200m contributed.

  Oxygen:
    Furukawa from C3 to summit to C3.
    Katsuno did not use.
    Kazuyoshi Kondo to C4 to summit to C4.
    Kenichi Kondo to C4 to summit to C4. 
    Kami and Gyalzen did not use.
    Phurba and Bibas often not used.
    Kami Singee and Bibas from C4 to summit to C4.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Tenjen, 21/12/74 (6/9/2031), Makalu-5, Everest X2
    Phurba Bhote, 7/5/76 (25/1/2033), Hatiya-1, Makalu, no 8000ers
    Bibas Gurung, 6/6/66 (24/2/2045), Hatiya-7, Makalu, no 8000ers
    Gyalzen Sherpa, 22/4/61, Yilajung, Dhaulagiri I X1, Cho Oyu X1, Everest 22/5/07
    Kami Sherpa, 29/6/66 or 9/7/66 (15 or 25/3/2023), Makalu-5, no 8000ers [??]
    Kami Singee Tamang, 16/7/77, Syamba, Ramche-4, Rasuwa, Everest X1, Makalu X1


  Japanese Alpine News - July 2010

  Tsunemichi Ikeda reports that only Kazuyoshi Kondo, Kami Sherpa and Gyalzen Sherpa reached the true summit on May 19; all others (3 Japanese and 4 Sherpas) stopped at the fore-summit on May 19 and May 20. This information was given to Ikeda by Kazuyoshi Kondo.


expid: MANA09117
peakid: MANA
year: 2009
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Ken Noguchi
sponsor: Noguchi Manaslu Expedition
approach: Arughat->Machha Khola->Jagat->Deng->Namung->Samagaon
bcdate: 2009-04-13
smtdate: 2009-05-07
termdate: 2009-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to excessive snowfall, broken all tents
campsites: BC(13/04,4700m),C1(17/04,5800m),C2(24/04,6400m),xxx(07/05,6700m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  On 7 May Noguchi, Hiraga, Ongje and Nima Kancha started from C2 for higher camp; at the beginning up to halfway it was Ok. Then started snowfall, so went back to C2 slept there. Next day descended to BC. There was continous snowfall for 11 days from 2 May. The team had to leave all oxygen cylinders in C2. The team returned to Kathmandu on 16 May.

  Fixed rope: 200m between C1 and C2.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Tashi, 22/2/64 (10/11/2020), Beding, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X1, K2 X1
    Ongje, 22/8/83 (06/05/2040), Gaurishankar-2, Manaslu X1, Ever X2, Cho Oyu X1
    Ang Kazi Sherpa, 11/5/78 (28/1/2035), Seduwa Khola-9, Sankhuwasabha
    Jit Bahadur, aka Thile, 30/7/78 (15/4/2035), Khare-5, Dolakha, Ever X1
    Nima Kancha Sherpa, 15/5/80 (2/2/2037), Khumjung, Everest X2, Lhotse X1


expid: MANA09119
peakid: MANA
year: 2009
route1: NE Face
nation: Hungary
leaders: Lajos Kollar
sponsor: Hungarian Manaslu Expedition
approach: Arughat->Khola Besi->Jagat->Namrung->Dani->Samagaon
bcdate: 2009-04-27
smtdate: 2009-05-19
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2009-05-22
campsites: BC(27/04,4860m),C1(29/04,5770m),C2(07/05,6350m),C3(08/05,6800m),C4(18/05,7300m),Smt(19/05)
accidents: Fall of Dr. Szabo Levente
achievment: 1st Hungarian to summit Manaslu
agency: Ang Rita Treks
routememo:
  Barna, Eross and Levente left C4 at 3 am on 19 May for the summit. Levente turned around from 7900m. Eross got to the top at 10 am and waited for Barna who arrived at around 12 noon. Barna stayed on the summit for about 5 minutes and both descended. The weather on summit day till 3 pm it was very good. After 3 pm cloudy, started snow fall and visibility became poor. 

  Levente was waiting for Barna and Eross at 7800m. All three started descending. At 7300m Levente slipped down about 500m down. They did not see him falling. His body was found on 20 May near C3. After consultation with Levente's family his body was buried near C3. Kollar remained at BC and did not climb. The team returned to Kathmandu on 28 May and will leave 3 June.


expid: NUPT09101
peakid: NUPT
year: 2009
route1: E Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Karen Lundgren
sponsor: Jordan Romero Team Sole to Nuptse
approach: Namche->Pheriche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2009-04-15
smtdate: 2009-04-29
termdate: 2009-05-01
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m because ran out of food
campsites: BC(15/04,5400m),C1(18/04,6000m),C2(21/04,6400m),xxx(29/04,7200m)
agency: Nepal Social Treks
routememo:
  On 29 April Ms Lundgren and Romero climbed up to 7200m and gave up. The snow conditions were not suitable for climbing; it was mixed fresh ice, crystal ice and blue ice. Actually the trip was a preparation for Romero's son, Jordan, to climb Everest next year. Jordan is 13 years old and wanted to be the youngest 7-summits summiter (only 3 summits left including Everest). 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 3 or 4 May. Romero said that they are not going back to the Khumbu Icefall. Jordan will try from north side.

  Fixed rope: 200m from 7000m to 7200m.


expid: PUMO09101
peakid: PUMO
year: 2009
route1: SE Face (to 6140m)
route2: SE Face (to 5730m)
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Andrej Stremfelj
sponsor: Slovenia Pumori Expedition
countries: Bosnia-Herzegovina, Croatia
bcdate: 2009-04-15
smtdate: 2009-04-27
termdate: 2009-04-25
termnote: Abandoned at 6140m due to route conditions too dangerous
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak (19 Apr by Andrej Stremfelj and Stipe Bozic on 6 May 2009)
campsites: BC(15/04,5140m),xxx(27/04,6140m)
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  While Stremfeljs went to Mera, rest went direct to BC where Andrej and Marija Stremfelj arrived on 22 April from Mera Peak.

  Slovenian Pumori Expedition led by Andrej Stremfelj - 6 May 2009

  The expedition included members who were celebrating thirty years of climbing together, they came to enjoy being on a mountain together once more.

  They tried two different lines on the SE Face. (They are numbered 57 & 59 on the sketches of Pumori in Jan Kielkowski's booklet). On 18 April Bozic, Groselj, Pemba Sherpa and Pemba Gyalzen went to the standard route (often called the Spanish route). They climbed to 5400m, then decided that falling ice and stones made that route too dangerous and returned to BC the same day.

  On the 21st, the same four climbers attempted the line, the so called French route, that starts slightly to the left of the standard route. They fixed 200m of rope up this route to 5700m that day and descended to BC.

  On the 23rd, Kotnik, Metod Skarja, Vodisek and the two Sherpas went back to the second route. Skarja got only to 5100m on the face, had not acclimatized well, and turned back to BC, while the others continued on up and and added more rope to 5730m before returning to BC. 

  The next day, there were a lot of falling rocks, so they decided that line was too dangerous. Andrej Stremfelj, who had joined the others at BC on the 22nd, decided to go to their original line and see conditions for himself. He and the two Sherpas went there on 27 April. The three men climbed to 6100m after having fixed 150m at the bottom of the route and finding some old ropes already on the route were still sound. Stremfelj went alone to 6140m, and from there he could see the way ahead was too difficult and dangerous for him to climb alone, but most of the other members had left BC on the 25th. He retreated to BC and the team's bid to climb Pumori was over.

  On the 29th, Andrej Stremfelj and Pemba Sherpa trekked wast from Kalapattar to Changri La, a 5697m high pass to go to Gokyo. They stopped at the pass without crossing it because Stremfelj felt the other side of the pass was too steep for the Sherpa. They returned to BC that day and on the 30th, they, Marija Stremfelj and Groselj vacated BC.

  Two members never went above BC: veteran alpinist Tone Skarja and Sead Muhic.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Sherpa, 1981, Lamabagar-1, Dolakha, no 8000ers
    Pemba Gyalzen, 4/9/74, Phortse, Everest X2


expid: PUMO09102
peakid: PUMO
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Anton Pugovkin
sponsor: Krasnoyarsk Pumori Expedition 2009
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2009-04-26
smtdate: 2009-05-16
termdate: 2009-05-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to high risk of avalanche
campsites: BC(26/04,5180m),ABC(28/04,5700m),C1(20/04,6200m),C2(14/05,6200m),C3(15/05,6600m),xxx(16/05,6900m)
routememo:
  16 May - 4 members started from C3 to 6600m at 04:00, reached high point at 08:00 am at about 6800-6900m, then abandoned further climb due to high risk of avalanche, and came back to 6600m at 10:00 am.


expid: PUMO09103
peakid: PUMO
year: 2009
route1: SE Face
nation: Russia
leaders: Alexander Kouznetsov
sponsor: Russian Pumori Expedition 2009
ascent1: 156
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2009-04-26
smtdate: 2009-05-17
smttime: 0840
termdate: 2009-05-19
campsites: BC(26/04,5180m),ABC(28/04,5700m),C1(29/04,6200m),C2(15/05,6500m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC in Gorak Shep.

  17 May - 7 Members started from C2 at 03:00, summited at 08:40, stayed about 30 minutes. Very clear view, made good photos. Came back to C2 before 12:00.

  Kouznetsov abandoned climb on 10 May due to fever and cough; reached only 6200m on 29 April.


expid: SAMD09101
peakid: SAMD
year: 2009
route1: N Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Alexandre Ulcakar
sponsor: Samdo Bhabisey
approach: Arughat->Jagat->Samagaon->Samdo
bcdate: 2009-05-07
smtdate: 2009-05-15
termnote: Abandoned at 5050m due to excessive snowfall
campsites: BC(07/05,4200m),C1(15/05,5050m),xxx(15/05,5050m)
agency: Glacier Safari Treks
routememo:
  Weather was very bad from the day the expedition team reached BC. Team explored around BC and went up to 5050m. Due to excessive snowfall the team went down to Samdo village and waited for four days for good weather, but the bad weather continued. They left Samdo and returned through Larkya La and the Dharapani trail.

  Hired:
    Babulal Lama Tamang, 29/1/79 (15/10/2035), Bhimkhuri-5, Kavre


expid: SARI09101
peakid: SARI
year: 2009
route1: NE Slope
nation: France
leaders: Daniel Petraud
sponsor: Saribung Expedition 2009
ascent1: 10th
countries: Switzerland
approach: Besisahar->Dharapani->Koto->Meta->Kyang->Phu->Kharka->Bhrikuti BC
bcdate: 2009-05-15
smtdate: 2009-05-17
smttime: 0940
termdate: 2009-05-18
campsites: BC(15/05,5400m),C1(16/05,5700m),Smt(17/05)
agency: K2 Summit Treks
routememo:
  Nikles, Petraud and Ang Gyalzen left top camp at 5:30 am on 17 May, reached summit at 9:40 am, stayed on summit for 20 minutes, descended to top camp between 11-11:30 am. Then to BC where they arrived around 4 pm, slept in BC. Next day to Phu. The team returned to Kathmandu on 25 May and will leave on 28 May.

  Sherpa:
    Ang Geljen Sherpa, 14/2/79 (02/11/2035), Jubing-1, Kharikhola, 
      1st expedition peak summit


expid: SARI09102
peakid: SARI
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Hermann Tauber
sponsor: Tauber's Saribung
ascent1: 9th
countries: Germany
approach: Jomsom->Lo Monthang->Yara->Komatati->Damodar Kund->Japanese BC
bcdate: 2009-05-10
smtdate: 2009-05-14
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2009-05-14
campsites: BC(10/05,5200m),C1(13/05,5750m),Smt(14/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Gufler, Kumpf, Mair, Messner, Roll, Tauber and Pasang Kazi left top camp at 4 am on 14 May. Six members and Sherpa reached summit at 10:30 am. They stayed on summit for 30 minutes, descended to C1 about 1 pm then to BC about 3 pm. Continued to Damador Kund where all members and Sherpas arrived around 5 pm. Slept there. 

  Elgrasser and Wiedemann went up to 5600m on 12 May. They did not like to continue and descended to BC. 

  Erardi and Renzler had coughs and remained in BC. 

  Hofer supposed to be only up to BC.


expid: SARI09103
peakid: SARI
year: 2009
route1: E Face
nation: Australia
leaders: Peter Allen
sponsor: Saribung Expedition 2009
ascent1: 8th
approach: See route details
bcdate: 2009-05-02
smtdate: 2009-05-06
termdate: 2009-05-06
campsites: BC(02/05,5300m),C1(05/05,5700m),Smt(06/05)
accidents: Klose suffered from high altitude sickness and left from Phu on 27 April
agency: Himalayan Mountain Guides
routememo:
  Approach: Bhulbhule->Dharapani->Koto->Meta->Khayang->Phu->Nugu Kharka->Nunka->Japan BC.

  Allen, Atkins, Casson, Grandison, Haala, Raza, Tomasic, Witham, Wadeson, Lhakpa Tenzi and Mingma Gyalzen left top camp at 5:30 am on 6 May and reached to the top at about 11 am. The weather was very nice. The summiters stayed on summit about 20 minutes, then descended to Damodar Kund Glacier. 

  Adams, Johnston and Rae did not try beyond BC. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 15 May and will leave on 16 May.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Tenzi, 4/4/75 (22/12/2031), Lokhim-4, [summit Bhrikuti]
    Mingma Gyalzen Sherpa, 25/11/73 (10/08/2030), Chaurikharka-8


expid: SARI09201
peakid: SARI
year: 2009
route1: NE Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Herbert Mayerhofer
sponsor: Austrian Saribung Expedition
bcdate: 2009-08-24
smtdate: 2009-08-26
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to snowstorm and lack of time
campsites: BC(24/08,5200m),C1(25/08,5600m),C2(26/08,5800m),xxx(26/08,5800m)
agency: Thamel/Peak Promotion Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Nanta Khola
  C1 on glacier
  C2 on glacier
  High point at C2.

  The trip was actually a kind of trek on which all members, climbing Sherpas, kitchen staff and porters moved together on the approach march to BC, up to the team's high point on Saribung, and back to Kagbeni for the return to Kathmandu.

  Their approach march from Jomsom took them to Lho Montang, a small village named De, Yara, Ghuma Thati, Damodar Kunda, and south to BC on the Nanta Khola. Their intended route on Saribung was the northeast slope, but they did not get onto it.

  Their BC was established on 24 Aug on the Nanta Khola at 5200m. On the 25th they moved to C1 at 5600m. On the glacier below the slope, and C2 was just two hundred meters higher, still on the glacier on the 26th.

  On 27th August it started to snow, and they had little more time for the mountain, so they abandoned their attempt to scale Saribung and descended all the way to Damodar Kunda that day. "It is a really an easy mountain -- no crevasses even on the glacier."

  They had planned to go from the summit to join the trekking route around Annapurna, but deep new snow forced them to return instead to Ghuma Thati, then west to Tange and on to Kagbeni for their bus to Kathmandu, where they arrived at 4:00 am on 1 September.

  Two members dropped out before the team arrived at BC. Helga Kuehrer developed a serious case of influenza and had to be evacuated from Damodar Kunda by helicopter to Kathmandu on 23 August. Irmgard Heinzl was strong enough to continue the trip, so she also left in the helicopter.

  Nepalese Staff:
    Lhakpa Dorje, sirdar, 1/10/65 (15/6/2022), Chitre, Sotang-6, Solu, 
      Everest X5, Lhotse 10/5/03
    Pasang Gelu, cook, 4/11/65, Beuma, Sotang-6, Solu, Everest 23/5/06
    Danurbu, porter, Kurima, Lokhim-9, Solu
    Bhale Bahadur Tamang, porter, Trisuli
    Dafinjo Sherpa, kitchen staff, Kurima, Lokhim-9, Solu
    Dakusang Sherpa, kitchen staff, Kurima, Lokhim-9, Solu
    Pemba Sherpa, kitchen staff, Bakachol-9, Khotang
    Furba Wangchu, kitchen staff, Kurima, Lokhim-9, Solu
    Ang Chhiring, kitchen staff, Saframa, Lokhim-9, Solu


expid: EVER09102
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Nyima Tsering
sponsor: Holy Mountain Adventure Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2009-04-10
smtdate: 2009-05-15
smttime: 1115
campsites: BC(10/04),ABC(18/04,6500m),C1(7028m),C2(7790m),C3(8300m),Smt(15,17-18/05)
agency: Holy Mountain Adventure
routememo:
  Tibetan summiters:

    May 15 -  6 during route preparation  (at 13:30 CST or 11:15 NST)
    May 17 -  8 with  8 Group A client summiters (at 10:00 CST or 7:45 NST)
    May 18 - 13 with 12 Group B client summiters (at 10:00 CST or 7:45 NST)

  Some may be repeaters from high camps. Note: one Chinese web site claims 47 Chinese summiters (20 commercial clients and 27 assistants). Also unclear whether 8th summiter on 17 May was Huang Zong-Hua or Chen Jun-Jun, or both. 

  [Note: Huang Zong-Hua did not summit, but Chen Jun-Jun summited].

  Presume all climbers and Tibetans used oxygen for climbing and sleeping.

  From Chinese web site
    http://www.m55m.net/viewthread.php?action=printable&tid=216782

  Climbing Leader:    Tsering Samdrup
  Rope Team:          Pemba Tashi, Dorje Tsering, Chimi Tashi, Tenzin, 
                      Ngawang Dorje, Tenzing Jigme
  Commander-in-Chief: Nima Tsering
  Climbing Guidance:  Tsering Dorje, Wangyal


expid: EVER09110
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: SE Col-SE Ridge
nation: Kazakhstan
leaders: Baglan Zhunus, Maxut Zhumayev
sponsor: Kazakhstan Lhotse-Everest Traverse Expedition
countries: Kyrgyz Republic, Russia
bcdate: 2009-04-12
smtdate: 2009-05-18
smttime: 1630
termdate: 2009-05-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to stomach illness
othersmts: Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-091-07)
campsites: BC(12/04),C1(15/04,6100m),C2(16/04,6500m),C3(30/04,7400m),xxx(18/05,7700m)
agency: Asian Trekking
primid: LHOT09107
routememo:
  Everest high point at Yellow Band.

  Two members, Lavrov and Zhunus, intended to climb Everest via the normal South Col-SE Ridge route, but they did not get above C3. They reached C3 on 30 April and slept there, then descended to C2 on 1 May and BC on the 2nd. Lavrov abandoned the idea of scaling Everest and made the summit of Lhotse his goal. Zhunus tried again to get to the Col on 18 May but turned back at the Yellow Band (about 7700m) on Lhotse's West Face, and left the expedition.

  Members who dropped out of climb:

  Zhunus also went to C3 on 30 April, went down to BC the next day with a stomach problem, left BC to rest at Deboche village on the 5th or 6th, returned to BC on 10th or 12th, tried again to climb Everest and reached the Yellow Band on Lhotse's West Face (about 7700m) on the 18th. His stomach problem recurred and he descended to C2 on the same day and left BC and the expedition on the 21st.


expid: MANA09120
peakid: MANA
year: 2009
route1: NE Face
nation: Taiwan
leaders: Lee Mei-Liang
approach: Arughat->Samagaon
bcdate: 2009-04-21
smtdate: 2009-04-30
termdate: 2009-05-10
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to bad weather and exhaustion
campsites: BC(21/04,4700m),C1(27-28/04,5700m),Dep(29/04,6200m),xxx(30/04,6400m)
agency: Ang Rita Treks
routememo:
  The team's summit push started from BC to C1 on 5 May, deposit camp on 7 May. On 8 May the team tried to go to C2 but had to turn back before C2. Maybe 100m below deposit camp two members Chu and Lee were exhausted. On 9 May Ms. Lee, Pemba Gyalzen and Nima Kancha slept at C2. Due to bad weather (heavy snowfall) they descended to BC on 10 May. The team decided to call off the expedition and went down to Samagaon on 11 May. Members took helicopter to Kathmandu on 12 May and left Kathmandu on 14 May.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Gyalzen, Thami, 22/7/69, Cho Oyu X3, Manaslu X1
    Tshering Wangchu, Thamo, 16/3/83, brother of Pemba Gyalzen,
      Everest X3, Lhotse X1
    Nima Kancha, Pare, 20/4/77, Everest 22/5/07, Ama Dablam in 2007
      with Iranians


expid: MANA09121
peakid: MANA
year: 2009
route1: NE Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Egon Rost
countries: Germany
approach: Arughat->Samagaon
bcdate: 2009-04-17
smtdate: 2009-04-25
termdate: 2009-05-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to too much snow
campsites: BC(17/04,4800m),C1(20/04,5800m),C2(24/05,6400m),C3(25/04,6800m),xxx(25/04,6800m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  High point at 6800m at C3.

  Team finished their acclimatization on 25 April. After they had reached C2, they descended back to BC to rest and then started summit push. However, the weather turned bad and it snowed for about two weeks. They ascended to C1 again on 15 May; however, it was covered in snow (about 2m). They could retrieve some of their stuff, but decided not to carry on due to high avalanche danger.


expid: PUTH09101
peakid: PUTH
year: 2009
route1: NE Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Goetz Wiegand
ascent1: 32nd
approach: Nepalgunj->Juphal->Dunai->Kakkot
bcdate: 2009-04-21
smtdate: 2009-04-28
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2009-05-02
campsites: BC(21/04,4930m),C1(25/04,5500m),C2(27/04,6140m),Smt(28/04)
routememo:
  The team left C2 at 7 am. Good weather but very wind. Soft snow, difficult trail. They reached the summit at 2:30 pm by which time clouds had started to move in and there was hardly any view.

  They descended to C2, where they arrived at 5 pm, packed up the camp and continued to C1, where they arrived at 7 pm. They left their loads at C1 and continued down to BC, where they arrived at 10 pm.

  On 30 April Wiegand, Koehler and Lieberenz climbed back up to C1 to collect their loads.


expid: KAPT09201
peakid: KAPT
year: 2009
route1: N Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Tamotsu Ohnishi
sponsor: Osaka Alpine Club West Nepal Expedition
ascent1: 1st
bcdate: 2009-06-02
smtdate: 2009-06-09
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2009-06-22
othersmts: Attempted Kojichuwa Chuli (KOJI-092-01)
campsites: BC(02/06,4300m),ABC(08/06,5492m),Smt(09-10/06)
agency: Cosmo Treks
primid: KOJI09201
routememo:
  Osaka Alpine Club West Nepal Expedition led by Tamotsu Ohnishi - 23 Aug 2009

  Ohnishi's plan was to climb three peaks in Kanti Himal, Kaptang, Koijchuwa Chuli and Daphne Shail, all on the border with Tibet, and then visit a number of more passes between Nepal and Tibet. However, after they had been on Kaptang and Kojichuwa Chuli, most members were too tired  to explore the passes, and the team headed directly to Jumla and Kathmandu.

  Their approach route was by air to Nepalgunj on 19 May and to Jumla on 20 May, then from Jumla on 22 May they trekked north to Rara Lake, northeast to Mugu Khola, north along Mugu Khola to Kaptang BC.

  On 2 June, they reached Kaptang BC at 4300m just below Najala Pass of the border ridge. They made an ABC at 5492m on the south side of the mountain on 8 June, and on 9 June Irizawa, Ohnishi and Gomba Sherpa went for the top. They left ABC at 6:00 am, were on the summit of Kaptang at 2:00 pm and back in ABC at 4:00 pm. They had climbed the North Face (from Tibet) and had fixed 400m of rope on the steep, 70-degree fce.

  On the next day, the 10th, the remaining members went to the summit. They were Mizutani, Suzuki and Tsuji. They left ABC at 5:00 am, summited at 9:00 am and returned to ABC at 2:00 pm.

  On the 15th the team made a new BC for Kojichuwa Chuli at 4600m south-southwest of the mountain. On the 21st, Irizawa, Suzuki, Tsuji and Gomba attempted the NW Ridge between the two mountains on its Tibetan side. The set out from the new BC at 5:00 am, at 9:00 am were at 5565m, too tired to press on to the top. They now turned back to BC and reached it at 2:00 pm.

  The next day, 22 June, they left camp to return to Jumla. They went to Mugu village, Ghora La, Yala La, Bhijor, Shey Gompa, Phuksundo Lake, and from Ringmo near the lake on 23 July they took a helicopter to Nepalgunj. Tsuji had a stomach problem and needed to fly out; the others went along with him. From Nepalgunj, they flew to Pokhara, spent a few days there and were in back in Kathmandu on the 26th.

  Sherpa:
    Gomba Sherpa, 6/12/84 (21/8/2041), Sotang, Solu, no 8000ers


expid: CHOY09301
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: Romania
leaders: Ovidiu Popescu
sponsor: Clubul Montan Altitudine Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2009-09-03
smtdate: 2009-09-14
termdate: 2009-09-06
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to Crina's headache
campsites: BC(03/09,4200m),ABC(06/09,5500m),C1(12/09,6400m),xxx(14,16/09,6700m)
accidents: Vrabie suffered from pneumonia; Crina from headache
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  During acclimatization Popescu father and daughter spent two nights in C1 and on 14 Sept they went up to 6700m. Crina got headache and turned around to ABC. On 16 Sept both father and daughter went up to 6700m. Again Crina got headache turned around to middle camp. 

  Two Sherpas set up C1 and did not go beyond that point. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 18 Sept and will leave on 19 Sept. Vrabie returned to Kathmandu on 7 Sept and left on 8 Sept.

  Sherpas:
    Mingma Temba, 19/1/80, Yaphu-9
    Dawa Sherpa, 28/4/75, Makalu-5


expid: CHOY09302
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Willie Benegas
sponsor: Patagonian Brothers Cho Oyu Expedition 2009
bcdate: 2009-09-09
smtdate: 2009-09-21
termdate: 2009-09-23
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to Collingson's pulmonary edema
campsites: BC(09/09,4700m),ABC(13/09,5600m),C1(15/09,6250m),C2(21/09,7200m),xxx(21/09,7200m)
accidents: Collingson altitude sickness
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  22nd down to ABC and 23rd to border. Collingson got pulmonary edema in C2 and they descended to ABC on 22nd. Benegas borrowed a bottle of oxygen from Swiss team led by Karl Kobler and Collingson used the oxygen in C1 on 22nd to ABC.


expid: CHOY09303
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: Argentina
leaders: Rolando Linzing
sponsor: Mar Del Plata Himalaya Cho Oyu Expedition 2009
approach: Kodari->Nyalam
bcdate: 2009-09-12
smtdate: 2009-09-21
termdate: 2009-09-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(12/09,5000m),ABC(14/09,5500m),C1(19/09,6300m),xxx(21/09,7100m)
agency: Chomolungma Pilgrimage
routememo:
  Alonso, Gonzalez and Linzing stayed in C1 for two nights, from 19 Sept to 21 Sept. They left C1 for C2 at 10 am (Chinese Time) and they arrived at C2 at 5 pm. They deposited their tent, food and gas and descended to C1, where they arrived at 8 pm.

  On 22 Sept, they descended to ABC to rest; however, on 25 Sept they decided to abandon their climb due to very bad weather. It snowed most of the time and as they were also running out of time, they decided to go back to Kathmandu.

  On 24 Sept, the three ascended to C1 and Linzing carried on to C2 to collect the gear. They left ABC at 9 am, they arrived at C1 at about noon. Linzing took another 4 hours to go back to C2. They all descended to ABC, where they arrived at 10 pm.

  They left BC on 26 Sept.

  Burla did not get out of ABC as he had decided that he did not want to climb the mountain anymore.


expid: CHOY09304
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Roberto Rojo
sponsor: Expedicion Alavesa Cho Oyu
approach: Kodari->Nyalam
bcdate: 2009-09-03
smtdate: 2009-09-22
smttime: 1630
termdate: 2009-09-27
campsites: BC(03/09,5000m),ABC(05/09,5700m),C1(08/09,6400m),C2(15/09,7100m),Smt(22/09)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  The team had initially planned to put up a C3, but as the weather forecast was bad they decided to push for the summit from C2.

  Summit team left C2 at 00:30 am on 22 Sept. Weather was clear and calm, deep snow. They arrived at C3 at 4 am and carried on to the summit.

  The snow was about 20 cm deep up to the Yellow Band; however, after the Yellow Band breaking trail was very difficult as the snow was knee-deep. There was fixed rope up to the Yellow Band after that no more rope had been fixed.

  They reached the summit at 4:30 pm. They spent 25 minutes on the summit. The views were fantastic and they saw Mount Everest. They descended to C2, where they arrived at 10:30 pm.

  On 23 Sept they descended to BC but stopped at C1 to collect their gear.

  Fernandez reached C1 on 12 Sept. He stayed one night there. As he did not feel well and had a bad cough all through the expedition he decided to abandon the climb and stayed at BC for the the duration of the expedition. He went back up to C1 on 23 Sept to help Rojo and Salinos take down their gear.


expid: CHOY09305
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Greg Vernovage
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Cho Oyu Expedition 2009
countries: Germany, Greece, Poland, Singapore
bcdate: 2009-08-31
smtdate: 2009-09-24
smttime: 0400
termdate: 2009-09-27
campsites: BC(31/08,4800m),ABC(04/09,5600m),C1(09/09,6300m),C2(14/09,7100m),C3(23/09,7400m),Smt(24/09)
achievment: 1st Greek woman on top
agency: Beyul Adventure
routememo:
  One member left the expedition early: Horst Baier was a slow climber, got to 6300m in the first icefall on 15 September, and became very tired. He left the team on 17 Sept.

  All the other members summited. They left C3 at 11:30 pm (Nepalese time) on 23 September, and reached the top on the 24th from 4:00 am (Szczepanik) to 6:15 am (Iliopoulou). All descended to C1 that day: Szczepanik and Piszczeu were the first to arrive at 10:00 am, while Iliopoulou and Vernovage were the last at 4:30 pm. All were back in ABC the next day.

  Three Sherpas and two Tibetans summited with the members. The Sherpas were Da Nuru, Mingma Dorje and Minma Tenzing. The Tibetans were Ngawang Dorje and and Kedup.

  All summiting members used oxygen in and from C3 to the top and down to (but not in) C3, except Szczepanik, who used it in and from C2 to top to (but not in) C3. None of the Sherpas and Tibetans used any oxygen.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Da Nuru, aka Danuru, 19/5/59, Phortse, Everest, Cho Oyu and Manaslu
    Mingma Dorje, 21/6/65, Phortse, Everst, Cho Oyu and Manaslu
    Mingma Tenzing, 1/6/86, Phortse, Everest and Cho Oyu

  Tibetan summiters:
    Kedup, 24/3/88, Lingdrushen, Lhasa, Cho Oyu 2/10/07 and 3/10/08
    Nawang Dorje, 1/9/85, Tingri Dzong, Shigatse, Cho Oyu 4/5/07, 
      reached 7900m on Cho Oyu in September 2007, both times with IMG teams


expid: CHOY09306
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Eva Maria Zarzuelo
sponsor: Spanish Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 2009-09-08
smtdate: 2009-09-22
smttime: 1630
termdate: 2009-09-27
campsites: BC(08/09,5000m),ABC(11/09,5700m),C1(14/09,6400m),C2(15/09,7100m),Smt(22/09)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Zarzuelo left C2 at about 00:30 hours NST on 22 Sept. She reached summit at about 4:30 pm, stayed on summit between 10-15 minutes, descended to C2 where she reached at about 10:30 pm. Next day to ABC. 

  Zarzuelo returned to Kathmandu on 28 Sept. She will leave after 4-5 days.


expid: CHOY09307
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Zachary Poulton
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Cho Oyu Expedition 2009
approach: Kodari->Nyalam
bcdate: 2009-08-29
smtdate: 2009-09-24
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2009-09-27
campsites: BC(29/08,5000m),ABC(02/09,5700m),C1(09/09,6400m),C2(14/09,7100m),C3(23/09,7500m),Smt(24/09)
agency: Makalu Adventure
routememo:
  Beesley from C2 to summit to C3. Rest of team and Sherpas C3 to summit to C3.

  On summit day team left C3 at 00:45 am (NST). Weather was clear and calm. The trail had already been broken by Roberto Rojo's team, however snow was still deep. Straightforward climb with no complications. A lot of people went up that day, but there was no real bottle neck. They saw Everest from the summit, very good views.

  Team spent about 40 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at about 5 pm. The following day, 25 Sept, they returned to ABC.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Sherpa, Makalu-9, Sankhuwasabha
      DOB: 27/04/1965
      Cho Oyu X2, Makalu

    Phurba Wangchu Sherpa, Waku-9, Solu
      DOB: 5/12/1975
      Everest 23/5/2008 & Lhotse 20/5/2009

  Oxygen used by all members and Sherpas from C3 to top to C3, Beesley from C2 to top to C3.


expid: CHOY09308
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Michel Wirth
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Cho Oyu Expedition 2009
countries: Austria, Canada, Germany
approach: Chengdu->Lhasa
bcdate: 2009-09-08
smtdate: 2009-09-24
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2009-09-29
campsites: BC(08/09,5000m),ABC(10/09,5700m),C1(14/09,6400m),C2(15/09,7130m),C3(23/09,7500m),Smt(24-25,27/09)
agency: Iceland Trekking (Dorje)
routememo:
  The expedition sent three parties to the summit on three different days. In the first group were nine members, Guggisberg, Gremion, Meile, Monnerat, Oser, Schneider, Trostmann, Wild and Wirth, plus Sherpas Lhakpa and Pemba. They left C3 at midnight of 23/24 September (NST) and were on the summit at 7:00 to 9:30 am on the 24th, most of them around 8:00 am. They saw Everest and Makalu in fine weather. They descended to ABC at 6:00 pm.

  Scholz went to C3 with this successful group, but he was too tired to go on up, and instead he retreated to ABC.

  The second party of five members, Leiweke, Maier, Pohl, Ruppen and Sieveking, with Ngada and Nurbu Chhiring Sherpas, left C3 at 0:30 hours on the 25th, reached the summit from 10:00 to 10:20 am, and returned to C3 at 3:00 pm. They were back in ABC on the 26th.

  The final summiters were just two members and Sherpa, Baumann, Klittich-Baumann and Pemba Nurbu. They started up from C3 at 0:30 hours on the 27th, were on the top at 9:15 am and stopped in C2 at 4:00 pm. They went down to ABC on the 28th.

  The four remaining members of the expedition set out from C3 for the summit with the third summit group on the 27th. But they turned back at the Yellow Band (7600m) at 1:00 am because they had stomach problems. They descended to C2 at 10:00 am that day and to ABC on the 28th.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Sherpa, 24/8/66, Makalu-2, Everest 21/5/08
    Ngada/Ngata Sherpa, 2/2/76, Lelep-9, Taplejung, Everest 23/5/07, Kangch 27/5/08
    Nurbu Chhiring, 29/7/80, Balakharka, Makalu-2, Everest 20/5/07
    Pemba Sherpa, 9/7/82, Lelep-9, Taplejung
    Pemba Nurbu Sherpa, 6/12/78, Ghunsa, Lelep-9, Taplejung, 
      Everest 21/05/09 and 20/5/09, Gasherbrum II in 2008


expid: EVER09112
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Won-Sub
sponsor: International Expedition Everest 2009
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2009-04-13
smtdate: 2009-04-18
termdate: 2009-04-20
termnote: Abandoned at 5650m due Lee Won-Sub's heart attack
campsites: BC(13/04,5300m),xxx(18/04,5650m)
accidents: Lee suffered from heart attack
agency: Ang Tendi Sherpa (Thamserku pmt)
routememo:
  According to Ang Phurba, Lee and Ang Phurba went till the beginning of icefall on around 19 April. At that point, 5650m around, Lee started heart pain and he was kept at BC clinic for the night. On 20 April he was flown to Kathmandu by helicopter. Lee left Kathmandu on 21 April.

  Lee wrote in his fax reply that while climbing towards C1 on 18 April at 5500m. He got heart attack. He left BC on 19 April and left Kathmandu on 20 April.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Phurba Sherpa, 26/8/67 (10/05/2024), Choplung, Chaurikharka-3, Solu, 
      Cho Oyu X4, Everest X2
    Kami Rita, Thame, Everest North with Philippino woman team, from 
     south side may be 4-5 times


expid: MAKA09301
peakid: MAKA
year: 2009
route1: W Pillar
route2: NW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Ueli Steck
sponsor: Makalu Expedition
ascent2: 116
approach: Tumlingtar
bcdate: 2009-09-01
smtdate: 2009-09-24
smttime: 1530
termdate: 2009-09-26
campsites: BC(01/09,5250m),C1(12/09,6000m),C2(22/09,6500m),C3(23/09,7300m),Smt(24/09)
accidents: Ueli Steck slight frostbite on both feet
agency: Royal Orchid Treks
routememo:
  The whole team left for their summit push on 21st September. When they reached C2 on 22 Sept, Waelchli was suffering from severe kidney pain. He managed to stay the night but decided to descend to BC on 23 Sept due to his pain.

  Boesch and Steck carried on to C3 and on 24 Sept the two left C3 at 3 am. The snow conditions were very challenging and they were covered in snow up to their hips. When they reached 7900m, Boesch decided to turn around as he was too exhausted to carry on and it was quite late in the day. He thought that if he carried on he would probably not make it back down. He descended to BC the same day; however, on the way down he felt very sick and thought he was not going to survive the descent. He took some oral Dexamethasone and made it all the way down to BC, where he arrived at 5 pm.

  Steck carried on even though he felt very exhausted himself. He said that he had never been so tired in his life. He arrived at the summit at 3:30 pm and just spent a few minutes there. He descended to C3, where he collapsed in his tent at about 5:30 pm. Boesch had left a note for him in the tent, telling him that he was fighting for survival, so Steck was worried about him; however, his radio did not work in the camp and he was simply too exhausted to go out to the Makalu La, where the radio would have worked. He was happy to see Boesch at BC when he arrived there on 25 September. When he took off his boots he noticed that he had slightly frostbitten toes; however, he does not think they will be permanently damaged. They are not purple, just swollen.

  Steck's Attempt on the West Pillar:

  Steck had planned to climb the West Pillar of Makalu in alpine style, which would have been the first such accomplishment.

  After having arrived at BC, Steck climbed to 6000m on 3 Sept and stayed the night there. On the way up to C1 he had to cross the twin towers over snow and rock, however, Steck said it was not technically difficult. It took him 3 hours to reach 6000m. On 4 Sept, he climbed up to 6700m (he took 5 hours) where he deposited all his gear and descended back to BC. After that, he stayed in BC until 12 Sept, due to heavy snowfall.

  On 12 Sept, he ascended to 6700m. He left at 1 am and took about 8 hours to reach C2. It was a struggle to get up due to the amount of snow that had fallen between 05 Sept and 11 Sept. He was covered in snow up to his hips. He reached his C2 at about 9 am. On 13 Sept, he left C2 at 3 am, weather was good but too much snow. When he reached 7200m at 8 am he decided to turn back, as the conditions just did not allow him to carry on.

  He descended back to BC but left his gear at C2. He arrived back at BC on 13 Sept at around 1 am on.

  On 16 Sept, Steck went back to C2 to collect his down gear in case the conditions would improve. He left BC at about 1 am, reached 6700m at 6 am then back to BC at 9 am.

  On 21 Sept he decided to abandon his attempt of the West Pillar and joined Robert Boesch and Andreas Welchli on the normal route.

  He summited on 24 Sept at 3:30 pm.

  On the West Pillar route, Ueli Steck followed the route of Marc Batard in 1988.

  Dates for Steck's West Pillar Attempt:

  01 Sept BC  5250m
  03 Sept C1  6000m
  12 Sept C2  6700m
  13 Sept high point 7200m


expid: TILI09301
peakid: TILI
year: 2009
route1: NE Spur
nation: Austria
leaders: Thomas Waldhart
sponsor: Tyrolean Tilicho Peak Expedition 2009
approach: Besisahar->Chame->Pisang->Manang->Tilicho BC hotel
bcdate: 2009-09-05
smtdate: 2009-09-12
termdate: 2009-09-14
termnote: Abandoned at 5700m due to physical illness of leader & Sherpa
campsites: BC(05/09,5120m),C1(10/09,5300m),xxx(12/09,5700m)
accidents: Sickness: Waldhart suffered from bronchitis; Dawa suffered from laryngitis
agency: Unique Adventure International
routememo:
  On 12 Sept Waldhart and Dawa went to put up C2. When they reached 5700m Waldhart got sick and Sherpa also got sick. They turned around to C1, slept there. Next day to BC. This is the only team on the mountain this season. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 18 Sept and will leave for Lhasa on 21st Sept.

  Fixed rope: 200m between 5450m-5650m.

  Sherpa:  
    Dawa Sherpa, 10/06/2036, Yaphu-9, Makalu


expid: TUKU09301
peakid: TUKU
year: 2009
route1: N Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Pavel Sofr
sponsor: Tukuche 2009 Lite Expedition
approach: Pokhara->Jomsom->Marpha->3 days trek to BC
bcdate: 2009-09-07
smtdate: 2009-09-16
termdate: 2009-09-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to deep snow and danger of avalanche high up
campsites: BC(07/09,5000m),C1(14/09,5700m),C2(15/09,6200m),xxx(16/09,6400m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Belik, Hofmannova, Kochman, Matousek, Milfait and Novakova left C2 around 8 am on 10 Sept for summit, but when they reached at 6400m they found deep snow, waist-deep and there was danger of avalanche on the higher slope. Then the team decided to stop climbing further up. The team slept at C1. 

  Holub and Sofr climbed up to 6000m; they suffered from bad stomach problems. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 20 Sept.


expid: CHOY09309
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Javier Zabalo Sainz
sponsor: Spaniard on Cho Oyu
approach: Kodari->Nyalam
bcdate: 2009-09-06
smtdate: 2009-09-25
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2009-09-30
campsites: BC(06/09,5000m),ABC(10/09,5700m),C1(14/09,6400m),C2(19/09,7100m),C3(24/09,7450m),Smt(25/09)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Zabalo Sainz left C3 at 3 am. Weather was cloudy and it snowed a little bit. The climb was straightforward. He arrived there at 12 noon. When he got there, there was no view and it was snowing slightly, but he reached the point with the prayer flags. He descended to C3, where he arrived at 3 pm. 

  The next day he took C3 down and descended to ABC. They left at 9 am and arrived at ABC at 4 pm.

  He climbed with Javier Camacho, who was with Thamserku Trekking.


expid: CHOY09310
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: Brazil
leaders: Marcelo Motta Delvaux
sponsor: First New Himalayan Cho 2009
approach: Kodari->Nyalam
bcdate: 2009-09-11
smtdate: 2009-10-02
termdate: 2009-10-07
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(11/09,5000m),ABC(13/09,5600m),C1(19/09,6400m),C2(30/09,7100m),xxx(02/10,7800m)
agency: Adventure Zambuling Treks
routememo:
  On 2 Oct Motta Delvaux left C2 at 1:15 am (NST). Weather was calm and clear. Snow conditions were good between C2 and C3, however, after C3 there was a lot of snow and the fixed ropes were buried under the snow. When he got to about 7800m at about 7 am, Motta Delvaux decided to turn around due to high winds and too much snow. He was on his own. He retreated to C2, where he arrived at 9 am and slept for two hours. As the weather was turning worse, he took down his tent and descended to C1, where he arrived at 4 pm. On 3 Oct he descended to ABC.

  Maduro reached 6700m, just above the icefall at 25 Sept. He was not feeling well and decided to abandon the expedition. He descended to ABC, where he stayed for two days and left for Kathmandu on 28 Sept.


expid: CHOY09311
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Benjamin Woodbeck
sponsor: Woodbeck-Finkel Cho Oyu
approach: Kodari->Nyalam
bcdate: 2009-09-10
smtdate: 2009-09-23
termdate: 2009-09-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to Woodbeck not feeling well
campsites: BC(10/09,5000m),ABC(15/09,5500m),C1(21/09,6400m),C2(23/09,7100m),xxx(23/09)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  On 23 Sept team ascended from C1 to C2. They left at 10 am and Finkel arrived at C2 at 1 pm; she only took 3 hours. Woodbeck arrived at 2 pm. They spent one night there and descended to ABC on 24 Sept.

  The stayed at ABC for 2 days and on 26 Sept they started their summit attempt. 27 Sept C1 and 28 Sept to C2. On their summit push they left C1 at 10 am and arrived at C2 at 3 pm. 

  Woodbeck had not been feeling well all day. He felt nauseous and descended the next day. They left C2 at about 9 am, collected their gear from C1 and descended to ABC, where they arrived at 3 pm.


expid: AMAD09301
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Robert Hochreiter
sponsor: Pongauer Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Phakding->Namche->Thame->Renjo Pass->Gokyo->Cho La Pass->Pangboche
bcdate: 2009-10-05
smtdate: 2009-10-14
termdate: 2009-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6350m due to soft snow conditions
campsites: BC(05/10,4450m),ABC(07/10,5450m),C1(10/10,5700m),C2(12/10,6050m),xxx(14/10,6350m)
agency: Kulung Ethnic Treks
routememo:
  Hochreiter went up to 6350m from C2 to see the possibility of putting a tent, but due to soft snow conditions it was not possible to put tent on soft snow with the unstable condition of the snow. Then Hochreiter descended to C2, and from C2 to BC with Riesenhuber and Seidl. 

  Egger and Gratz climbed up to 6300m on 14 Oct. All descended to BC same day. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 18 Oct and will leave on 20 Oct.

  Fixed rope: 750m between C1-> C2


expid: AMAD09302
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Jordi Estonyol
sponsor: Cordoba Ama Dablam
bcdate: 2009-10-09
smtdate: 2009-10-14
termdate: 2009-10-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6050m due to unstable snow
campsites: BC(09/10,4600m),C1(12/10,5700m),C2(13/10,6000m),xxx(14/10,6050m)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  The team made two attempts to reach the summit, but both were defeated by unstable snow that would not hold snowbars or ice axes, and therefore it was impossible to go much above 6000m.

  C1 was established on 12 Oct by all members. On the 13th Estanyol, Llantada and Pueyo moved up to C2 at 6000m, and on 14 October the three men started to go higher. But at 6050m they gave up in the face of the unstable snow, and all members went down to C1 to sleep and descended to BC on the 15th.

  On the 16th Baena, Ponce and Pueyo moved up to C1 while the other two remained in BC. On 17th October Baena, Ponce and Pueyo ascended to C2. But they went no higher than C2, and on the 18th they were back in BC, having abandoned any hope of further progress.

  Meanwhile on the 18th Estanyol and Llantada left BC on the 18th and were in Namche Bazar that night. The remaining three members followed them to Namche on the 19th.


expid: AMAD09303
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Guy Buckingham
sponsor: Khumbu Challenge 2009
bcdate: 2009-10-10
smtdate: 2009-10-22
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2009-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to bad snow conditions
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East
campsites: BC(10/10,4600m),C1(13/10,5870m),C2(14/10,6100m),xxx(22/10,6400m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Before going to Ama Dablam, the team acclimatized on Lobuche East. Bonney and Swift summited on 6 October and the remaining members except Dingwall were on the top of the following day.

  The expedition was unable to get to the summit because of deep sugary snow which could not hold pitons or crampons. Their high point was the site for C3. Bonney, Dingwall and Morgan left C2 at 6:00 am on 22 October, reached the campsite at 2:00 pm, immediately turned around and went back to C2. The climb was finished.

  Bonney had been in the party to try for the top despite the fact that one leg had been amputated below the knee following an accident.

  Hogan left the team early. He got a chest infection at BC after having climbed to C1 on 14 October. He went down to Pangboche on the 18th or 19th, went to Khumjung the next day, and did not return to BC.

  Fixed rope: 250m between C2 & C3 site.


expid: AMAD09304
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Sandy Allan
sponsor: Team Ascents Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 2009-10-19
smtdate: 2009-10-25
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2009-10-28
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East
campsites: BC(19/10,4600m),C1(22/10,5700m),C2(23/10,6000m),C3(24/10,6400m),Smt(25/10)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  C1 at normal site
  C2 at normal site
  C3 former normal site.

  Before going to Ama Dablam, the expedition first went to Lobuche East to acclimatize. All seven members and four Sherpas summited it on 16 October. 

  The first ascent of Ama Dablam this autumn was made by this team. The route between C2 and C3 involves a traverse above the Mushroom and leads to a steep wall. Allan's team fixed 1000m of rope on most of the route halfway above C2 to the summit and donated 100m more meters for others to fix.

  They pitched their C3 at the old normal C3 site, part of the which was hit by a destructive avalanche in the autumn of 2006, killing six people. The site had not been used since then but Allan says it is now quite safe. Besides, the site of what teams were calling camp 2.7 is not safe now.

  The summit was reached on 25 October by five members and four Sherpas: Allan, Flux, Lydiatt, Morley, Morris-Macintyre, Dawa Chhiri, Kusang Tenzing, Lhakpa and Lhakpa Dendi. They left C3 at 7:30 am after waiting for the sun to come up, and they were on the top within 20 minutes of each other around 1:00 pm.

  Allan, Lydiatt, Morley, Kusang Tenzing and Lhakpa descended to C2 to spend the night; they arrived there between 4:00 and 5:15 pm. The remaining British and Sherpa summiters stopped in C3. All were back in BC on the 26th.

  Two members did not go to the top:

  Evenden climbed halfway to C2 on 23 October, turned back and went down to BC the next day. He was climbing very slowly and had a bad cough; he decided he should stop climbing.

  Dave Morris summited Lobuche East with the team. But he had an operation on his throat and can speak only by pressing a soundbox to his throat. When he arrived at Ama Dablam BC, his throat was full of flem and he was not very fit (he is 63 years old). He remained in BC until 26 October, when he climbed up to C1 to meet the returning summiters, who included his son, Calum Morris-Mcintyre.


  Email from Dave Morris - 5 Nov 2009

  Morris-MacIntyre (Calum) managed the ascent very well and did not appear to have any problems, apart from a close shave with a falling rock, which glanced off his arm and leg, but without doing any damage.

  As you see I ran into problems with a chest infection after two weeks and this has taken a further two weeks to clear up. I seemed to acquire it soon after Dingboche and it was a bit of a struggle from there up Lobuche, Kalapattar and Everest Base Camp. Nevertheless the hospital people back here in Dundee seemed amazed that I had managed to get to 20,000 ft on Lobuche East Peak having both a laryngectomy operation (last January) a chest infection to deal with. I also managed to get to C1 on Ama Dablam to meet Calum and the others as they descended, so that was reasonable compensation for not managing the main climb.


  Sherpas:
    Dawa Chhiri, 20/2/67, Kurima, Lokhim, Solu, Makalu X3, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X3, 
      Manaslu X1
    Kusang Tenzing, 16/5/86, Ghunsa, Lelep-9, Everest X2
    Lhakpa Sherpa, 11/10/78, Zarok, Namche-1, Everest X4
    Lhakpa Dendi, 22/11/74 (7/8/2031) or 21/12/64 (7/9/2021), Makalu 18/5/08


expid: AMAD09305
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Justin Merle
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Ama Dablam Expedition 2009
bcdate: 2009-10-22
smtdate: 2009-10-27
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2009-10-29
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East
campsites: BC(22/10,4600m),C1(25/10,5800m),C2(26/10,6000m),Smt(27/10)
agency: Beyul Adventure
routememo:
  The team went first to Lobuche East to acclimatize, and all three members summited it on 19 October.

  One member, Alexander Zouros, went to Ama Dablam BC with the others and climbed up to C1 on 24 Oct only to see it; he had already decided not to do any more climbing; he was just not interested in doing it. He left BC on the 25th.

  Merle, Peress and Ang Pasang Sherpa left C2 for the top at 4:00 a.m. on 27 October and arrived there at 10:30 am. They stayed on the summit for half an hour and then descended all the way to BC, which they reached at 8:15 pm. They were now tired, so they spent the next day resting before leaving BC on the 29th.

  Sherpa:
    Ang Pasang Sherpa, 11/2/66, Pangboche, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X4


expid: AMAD09306
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Diego Hernandez
sponsor: Spanish Pair on Ama Dablam
approach: Phakding->Namche->Pangboche->Island Peak->Pangboche
bcdate: 2009-10-21
smtdate: 2009-10-27
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2009-10-29
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak on 18 Oct by both
campsites: BC(21/10,4600m),C1(23/10,5700m),C2(26/10,6000m),Smt(27/10)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Hernandez and Martin left C2 at 6 am on 27 Oct. They reached summit at 1 pm, stayed on summit for about 45 minutes, then descended to C2 at 5 pm. Summit day weather was very good, but windy and cold. Ahead of Hernandez team there were one Spanish with Sherpa, one American with two Sherpas on summit. One Chilean was also on summit with Hernandez, followed by 3 Germans.

  Hernandez team returned to Kathmandu on 1 Nov and will leave on 4 November.


expid: AMAD09307
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Lydia Bradey
sponsor: Kiwis on Ama Dablam
bcdate: 2009-10-11
smtdate: 2009-10-28
smttime: 1015
termdate: 2009-11-01
campsites: BC(11/10,4650m),C1(18/10,5700m),C2(28/10,6100m),C3(27/10,6300m),Smt(28/10)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Bradey, Gywnne-Jones and Phurba Ridar left C1 in their summit push on 27 Oct and climbed to 6300m, where they made C3. They left C3 for the top on the 28th at 6:30 am and summited at 10:15 am. They were back in C3 at 12:20 pm, moved out of C3 at 1:00 pm and made C2 at 6100m at 3:45 pm. They were in BC the next day.

  Hired:
    Phurba Ridar Bhote, 1958, Chepuwa-4, Makalu, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2


expid: AMAD09308
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Andreas Sippel
sponsor: Amical Alpin Ama Dablam Expedition 2009
countries: Austria
bcdate: 2009-10-16
smtdate: 2009-10-27
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2009-10-31
campsites: BC(16/10,4600m),ABC(20/10,5400m),C1(21/10,5800m),C2(26/10,6100m),Smt(27-28/10)
accidents: Riedl's throat infection only
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Four members and one Sherpa, Baumann, Guggenberger, Sippel, Wolfrum and Tashi Lhakpa, made the expedition's first summit push. They set out for the top from C2 on 27 October. Baumann had to turn back at 6400m: he was not fit and simply could not go on. Tashi Lhakpa went back to C2 with him. The other three members continued to the summit, which they reached between 12:00  noon and 1:00 pm, and returned to C2 at 3:30 pm. Guggenberger went on down to C1 with Baumann; they were there at 6:30 pm. All except Sippel and Tashi Lhakpa descended to BC the next day; Sippel and Tashi Lhakpa waited in C2 for the second summit party.

  The second party was composed of Buescher, Prummer and Schmidt, joined by Sippel and Tashi Lhakpa. They left C2 at 3:00 am. Sippel had to drop out at 6700m because his feet were too cold; he waited for the others in C2. The three members and Sherpa went on to the summit between 9:00 am and 10:00 am. Buescher, Schmidt and Sippel descended to C1 for the night, while Prummer, while Tashi Lhakpa went to BC.

  Riedl had been in the second summit group in C2 on the 27th, but he now had a throat infection and was very slow. He did not go above C2 but instead descended to BC on the 28th.

  Fixed rope: between C2 and mushroom ridge.

  Sherpa:
    Tashi Lhakpa, 18/11/85, Mathilow, Walung, Makalu-Barun, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X1


expid: AMAD09309
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Eric Haselsteiner
bcdate: 2009-10-09
smtdate: 2009-10-28
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2009-10-30
campsites: BC(09/10,4650m),C1(21/10,5700m),C3(27/10,6300m),Smt(28/10)
accidents: Haselsteiner had stomach troubles and other ailments
agency: Equator Expeditions
routememo:
  Haselsteiner and Nuru left C3 for the top at 5:00 am, on summit at 9:30 am and down to C1 at 5:00 pm. BC on 29 Oct.

  Sherpa:
    Nuru Wangchu, Pangboche, 18/8/77 (2/5/2034), Everest X6, Cho Oyu X2


expid: AMAD09310
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Ryuseki Hiraoka
sponsor: Adventure Guides Ama Dablam Expedition 2009
bcdate: 2009-10-30
smtdate: 2009-11-05
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2009-11-08
othersmts: Climbed Nirekha Peak (NREK-093-01)
campsites: BC(30/10,4500m),C1(02/11,5700m),C2(03/11,5900m),C3(04/11,6300m),Smt(05/11)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Before climbing Ama Dablam, the expedition went to Nirekha Peak (6159m), which is east-northeast of the better-known Gokyo Peak in Khumbu. The leader, Isoda, Kudo, Phu Tashi Sherpa and Min Bahadur Tamang, reached the summit via the West Ridge on 25 October.

  The Ama Dablam summit party consisted of Ryuseki Hiraoka, Isoda, Kudo and Miura, plus Kitap Sing Tamang, Min Bahadur Tamang, Phu Tashi Sherpa and Phura Chhiri Sherpa. They left C3 on at 4:00 am on 5 November, and all of them reached the summit, Kudo and Miura first at 9:00 am and the last were there at 9:45 am. They were down to C2 at about 5:00 pm.

  On the 6th, all arrived in BC. The 7th was a day of rest, and the 8th they left for Lukla.

  Non-summiting members:
   
  Mrs Tomoko Hiraoka as BC manager remained most of the time in BC, but on 2 November she went to C1 with the rest of the team.

  Ms Takano climbed to 5800m on 3 November, turned back because she was tired and had a pain in her shoulder.

  Sherpas:
    Kitap Sing Tamang, 30/8/76 (14/5/2033), Deusa-6, Solu
    Min Bahadur Tamang, 18/8/79 (2/5/2036), Lisankhu-5, Sindhupalchowk
    Phu Tashi Sherpa, 23/10/77 (7/7/2034), Phortse, Khumbu, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Phura Chhiri Sherpa, 1968-69 (2025), Lokhim-9, Solu


expid: AMAD09311
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Adrian Ballinger
sponsor: Alpenglow Ama Dablam Expedition 2009
countries: Japan, USA
bcdate: 2009-10-24
smtdate: 2009-11-06
smttime: 0910
termdate: 2009-11-08
campsites: BC(24/10,4600m),C1(27/10,5800m),C2(05/11,6250m),Smt(06/11)
accidents: Only Suzuki's twisted ankle
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  This expedition skipped the usual C2 site and made their bid for the summit from their second high camp at 6250m which they called Camp 2.7. It was "significantly" above the normal C2 and just below the old C3 site at 6300m. Ballinger said it doesn't make sense to use the old site: there is nothing falling from above now, "but the potential is still there." It took an hour to dig platforms for tents at C 2.7, but in addition to the greater safely at 6250m, this site "was used only by us and is clean and near fresh water" from clean snow; C2 and C3 sites are "disgusting" from rubbish and polluted snow.

  On their summit day, 6 November, all the members and their three Sherpas set out from C 2.7 at 6:00 am. Half an hour later Gessert dropped out at 6300m because of exhaustion. He descended to C1 that day and down to BC the next day.

  The five remaining members, Ballinger, Harris, Suzuki, Tamura and Toyama, and Sherpas Dorje Sonam Gyalzen, Phurba Tashi and Rita Dorje reached the summit between 9:10 am (Toyama) and 10:00 am (Suzuki). The weather was "perfect, windless, gloves off." All returned to C1 that evening between 5:00 and 7:00 pm.

  Suzuki was the one who came in last because she had twisted her ankle descending from the top. Although it was painful, she got down to BC and walked two days to Lukla, and was still walking (with a slight limp) in Kathmandu the day after had she landed.

  All members were in BC on the 7th and left for Lukla on the 8th.

  Oxygen was taken with the team, but they didn't use it. It was however used when Ballinger took two Sherpas with him on 30 October up to 6300m, where he administered it to Christian Hotter, a member of an Austrian expedition led by Franz Kroell, was in trouble from cerebral edema and serious frostbite after having spent the previous night out in the open.

  The necessity of helping to rescue Hotter put an end to Ballinger's plan at this point, after his team's acclimatization period, to do a one-day round trip alone from BC to summit to BC.

  Sherpas:
    Dorje Sonam Gyalzen, 24/5/81, Phortse, Everest X11, Manaslu X1
    Phurba Tashi, 24/5/71, Khumjung, Everest X15, Cho Oyu X5
    Rita Dorje, aka Ang Rita, 24/10/77, Phortse, Everest X5


expid: AMAD09312
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Tom Van Den Berghe
sponsor: Adventure Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Phakding->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2009-10-22
smtdate: 2009-11-01
smttime: 1222
termdate: 2009-11-03
campsites: BC(22/10,4600m),C1(26/10,5700m),C2(31/10,6000m),Smt(01/11)
agency: Adventure Extreme
routememo:
  De Clerck, Van den Berghe, Mingma and Phurba left C2 at 3:20 am on 1 Nov, arrived at summit between 12:22-12:44 pm, stayed on summit for 48 minutes. Van den Berghe descended to C2 at around 7:45 pm, rest around 8 pm, slept there. Next day they descended to BC. The summit day weather was good with little wind, below summit it was cloudy. 

  Ahead of Van den Berghe team there were an Italian and a Sherpa, along with 3 Swiss climbers and a Sherpa. After Van den Berghe team there was a Japanese woman with 2 Sherpas. 

  Valle climbed up to about 5750m; he had breathing problem. 

  Sherpas:
    Mingma (Dorje) Sherpa, 1/10/77 (15/06/2034), Thamo, Namche-5, Everest X4,
      Cho Oyu X2 
    Phurba Namgyal Sherpa, 7/2/86 (26/10/2042), Gaurishankar-1, Cho Oyu X2,
      Everest X1


expid: AMAD09313
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Bhuwan C. Upadhyay
sponsor: Adventure Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Phakding->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2009-10-22
smtdate: 2009-10-27
termdate: 2009-11-03
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to Upadhyay's need of Sherpa help
campsites: BC(22/10,4600m),C1(26/10,5700m),xxx(27/10,5800m)
agency: Adventure Extreme
routememo:
  Upadhyay tried to go to C2 on 27 Oct. When he reached at 5800m, he realized that he alone will not be possible to climb further, then turned  around to C1. Next day to BC. 

  Upadhyay returned to Kathmandu on 7 Nov and will leave on 11 November. He wants to try again to climb Ama Dablam in next autumn.


expid: AMAD09314
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Melissa Arnot
sponsor: American Ama Dablam
bcdate: 2009-10-21
smtdate: 2009-10-26
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2009-10-27
campsites: BC(21/10,4600m),ABC(22/10,5150m),C1(23/10,5400m),C2(24/10,5800m),Smt(26/10)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  Email from Melissa Arnot - Nov 9, 2009

  After trekking around the lower Khumbu and crossing the Renjo La and Cho La we arrived at BC on the 21st October. We spent one night (the 21st) there, one night at ABC (22nd), one night at C1 (23rd), two nights at C2 (24th and 225th). I believe the higher camps altitudes are as follows: ABC 5150m, C1 5400m, C2 5800m, though I am not 100% on these elevations, it is what I was reading on GPS.

  We departed C2 at 03:00. Chewang Nima joined us from C1 which he left at 01:30. All 3 climbing members summited at 09:00 and descended about 20 minutes later arriving at C2 around 13:00; we decided to descend all the way to BC and arrived there at around 19:00, Chewang a bit ahead of us.


expid: AMAD09315
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Markus Amon
approach: Lukla->Thami, climbed Sumdur Ri->Renjo Pass->Gokyo->Cho La->Lobuje
bcdate: 2009-11-12
termdate: 2009-11-14
termnote: Abandoned on about 14 Nov due to Amon's grandfather's death
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak on 7 Nov and Sumdur Ri
campsites: BC(about 11/11,4600m)
agency: Langtang Ri Trekking
routememo:
  Amon arrived in Nepal on 25 October flew to Lukla on 26 October.

  Then Amon trekked via Thami, climbed Sumdur Ri (5229m), crossed the Renjo Pass to Gokyo, then  the Cho La to Lobuche and on 7 November he summited Island Peak. On 11 November he was back in Lukla with his group and then went to Ama Dablam BC, where he arrived at Ama Dablam BC on 12 November.


expid: AMAD09316
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Ryszard Pawlowski
sponsor: Patagonia Mountain Agency (PMA) Ama Dablam Expedition 2009
countries: Czech Republic
bcdate: 2009-11-07
smtdate: 2009-11-10
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2009-11-13
campsites: BC(07/11,4500m),C1(08/11,5700m),C2(10/11,6700m),C3(09/11,6280m),Smt(10-12/11)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  First the team went to Island Peak and 13 members and a Sherpa reached its summit on 4 November. Then they went to Ama Dablam BC on the 7th, and with this acclimatization, they made rapid progress up the mountain.

  They made two summit pushes. Two members, Bouda and Vestak, went up from C1 on 9 November and established C3. At 8:00 am on 10 November, they left C3 for top and summited at 1:00 pm. They then made C2 at 4:00 pm and slept there that night. They were back in BC on the 11th.

  The second summit party was composed of Dedyk and Lhakpa Chhiri, who left for the top on 11 November from C2 at 4:00 am, and Cholewa, Moskala, Olszewsi and Tomala, who started up from C3 at 8:00 am. Cholewa's feet were getting very cold when he had reached 6500m, so he went back to C3 while all the others in the party continued on the summit and were on the top at 1:00 to 2:00 pm. Dedyk and Lhakpa Chhiri returned to C2 at 6:00 pm; the other summiters stopped in C3 at 2:00 pm.

  Cholewa was determined to get the top. Someone lent him a better pair of boots, and he set out at 8:00 am on 12 November, reached the summit at 3:00 pm, and was back in C3 at 6:00 pm.

  Non-summiting members:

  The Danis brothers, Libor and Petr, went up to C1 on 9 Nvember. Petr had a very bad cough; they both descended to BC on the 10th and left the expedition on the 11th.

  Dolinska, Kotla and Slowik were not strong climbers. On the 8th of November they were unable to reach C1 with other members. They stopped at 5500m, 200m below C1; Sherpas brought down to them a tent, food and stove, and they camped there that night. They descended to BC on the 9th and left teh team on the 10th.

  Kwapich and Pisarski slept in C1 on 8 November but were not feeling well. They went back to BC on the 9th and stayed there for the rest of the climbing period.

  Pawlowski, the leader, did not go above BC. "I have been to the summit 22 times," was his explanation.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Chhiri (Sonam), 17/11/74, Pangboche, Everest X5


expid: AMAD09317
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Inigo Loyola
sponsor: Basque Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 2009-10-27
smtdate: 2009-11-06
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2009-11-10
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(27/10,4600m),C1(30/10,5700m),C2(05/11,6900m),Smt(06/11)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  The team acclimatized by going first to Island Peak. All members summited it on 23 October.

  Their summit bid was made from C2; they had no C3. They left for the top on the 6th of November at 1:30 am, and all four of them summited at 1:00 pm. They returned to C2 at 5:30 pm. "A long day," commented Loyola.

  They were back in BC on the 7th. They had perfect weather and with a total success, they were very happy.


expid: AMAD09318
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: David Morton
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Ama Dablam Expedition 2009
bcdate: 2009-11-10
smtdate: 2009-11-14
termdate: 2009-11-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6050m due to Folkert's stomach trouble
campsites: BC(10/11,4600m),C1(13/11,5800m),xxx(14/11,6050m)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
othersmts:
  Attempted Kusum Kangru north face solo 5250m on 4 Nov (Morton); climbed Baruntse (BARU-093-07) and Cho Oyu (CHOY-093-16) (Folkerts)

routememo:
  Morton and Folkerts met at Namche Bazar of 8 November. He had attempted Kusum Kangru solo and she had gone to a beach in Thailand, returned to Kathmandu on 2 November, and flown to Lukla on the 3rd.

  They arrived at BC on 10 November. On the 13th, they occupied C1 and on the 14th they climbed to 6000m at the Yellow Tower, but then turned back to C1 because it appeared that a snowstorm was coming. On the 15th, there was some wind and clouds were coming in, so they retreated to BC to wait for better weather.

  On the 18th, the weather had improved Morton, Folkerts and Phura Kancha, launched their summit push from BC. But at 5600m, Folkerts recurring stomach trouble flared up, and she "felt miserable," she said; she returned to BC that day. Morton went up to C1 only, while Phurba Kancha continued up to C2's site at about 6050m to retrieve the gear he ahd left there on the 14th. They both returned to BC on the 19th, and the climb was now finished.

  Thus the members' high point was C1 on 18 November and their Sherpa's was C2 site at 6050m on 14 and 18 November.

  Morton returned to Kathmandu on 22 November, but Folkerts stayed in Khumbu at Phura Kancha's home in Thami for two weeks.

  Sherpa:
    Phura Kancha, 17/1/77, Thami, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X2 including autumn 2009


expid: AMAD09319
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Wendy Cue
sponsor: International Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 2009-11-12
smtdate: 2009-11-21
smttime: 1315
termdate: 2009-11-23
campsites: BC(12/11,4600m),C1(16/11,5400m),C2(20/11,6000m),Mbr.xxx(21/11,6750m),Sherpa.Smt(21/11)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Cue and Nima Kancha left C2 for the top on 21 November at 2:00 am. The wind was not very strong, and the sky clear after the sun rose. At 12:50 pm, Cue, who was told by Nima Kancha that she should turn around there, but he was going on to the top. He reached the summit at about 1:15 pm.

  Cue returned to C2 at 7:00 pm and stayed there that night. Nima Kancha went down to C1. Both were back in BC on 22nd. 

  Cue said she didn't really know why she had not gone to the top, and she regrets this.

  Sherpa:
    Nima Kancha Sherpa, 15/5/80, Khumjung, Everest X2, Lhotse X1


expid: AMAD09320
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Laurent Gillioz
sponsor: A Swiss on Ama Dablam
bcdate: 2009-11-14
smtdate: 2009-11-20
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2009-11-22
othersmts: Climbed Chhukung Ri on 12 Nov
campsites: BC(14/11,4600m),ABC(15/11,5300m),C1(15/11,5800m),Smt(20/11)
agency: World Records Expeditions
routememo:
  Before going to Ama Dablam, Gillioz trekked extensively in Khumbu and climbed Chhukung Ri on 12 November.

  He arrived at BC on 14 November, slept in ABC on the 15th and in C1 on the 16th. He spent two nights in C1, then was driven down to BC by high winds on the 17th.

  He returned to C1 on the 19th, and left from this camp for the top on 20 November at 6:00 am. He was on the summit at 2:30 pm and back in BC at 7:00 pm.


expid: AMAD09321
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Christopher Szymiec
sponsor: Field Touring Alpine Ama Dablam Expedition 2009 (Group I)
countries: Brazil, Netherlands, USA
bcdate: 2009-10-28
smtdate: 2009-11-04
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2009-11-07
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak on 27 Oct (De Waard, Szymiec, Tyler and Siddhi Bahadur Tamang)
campsites: BC(28/10,4600m),C1(01/11,5680m),C2(03/11,6000m),Smt(04/11)
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
routememo:
  The team first climbed Island Peak. De Waard, Szymiec, Tyler and Siddhi Bahadur Tamang reached the summit on 27 October.

  On Ama Dablam their summit bid was made from C2 at 2:00 am on 4 November by De Waard, Takahashi, Pemba Rinzin and Siddhi Bahadur. All went to the summit; De Waard and Siddhi Bahadur at 10:00 am, Takahashi and Pemba Rinjin at 10:35 am. They were back in C2 at about 4:00 pm and in BC the next day.

  Non-summit members on Ama Dablam:

  Szymiec slipped while climbing to C2 on 3 November and bruised his chest. He returned to BC that day and remained there.

  Tyler reached C2 on the 3rd, but his chest infection sent him to BC that day; he left BC on the 5th to go to Namche, where he recovered and was able to join Group II.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Rinjin Sherpa, 1/1/65, Tashigaon, Makalu-5, Sankhuwasabha, Everest X4
    Siddhi Bahadur Tamang, 1981, Lamabagar-5, Dolakha, no 8000ers


expid: AMAD09322
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Ireland
leaders: Terence Bannon
sponsor: Irish Ama Dablam (on Field Touring Alpine permit)
countries: USA
bcdate: 2009-11-14
smtdate: 2009-11-21
smttime: 1715
termdate: 2009-11-23
campsites: BC(14/11,4600m),C1(17/11,5680m),C2(19/11,6000m),Smt(21/11)
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
routememo:
  The team were semi-independent of the Field Touring Ama Dablam expedition: they used the same trekking agency and the same tents and stoves, but brought their own food and sleeping bags and made their own decisions about the climb.

  The three members attempted to go to the summit on 20 November. They were stopped at 6500m by strong winds which drove them back to C2, where they stayed in an empty tent without food, water or sleeping bags.

  They left C2 for the top again on 21 November. They started rather late, at about 8:00 am, and reached the summit at about 5:15 pm. The returned to C2 at 11:30 pm. They were back in BC at 6:00 pm on the 22nd.

  All ten of Scace's fingers were badly frostbitten, and he flew by helicopter from BC to Kathmandu on the 23. O'Malley went with him.


expid: AMAD09323
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Christopher Szymiec
sponsor: Field Touring Alpine Ama Dablam Expedition 2009 (Group II)
countries: Denmark, UK, USA
bcdate: 2009-11-16
smtdate: 2009-11-21
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2009-11-23
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak on 14 Nov (Blessley, Herbert, Olsen, Siddhi Bahadur Tamang)
campsites: BC(16/11,4600m),C1(19/11,5680m),C2(20/11,6000m),Smt(21/11)
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
routememo:
  The team first climbed Island Peak. Blessley, Herbert, Olsen and Siddhi Bahadur Tamang reached the summit on 14 November.

  Then their Ama Dablam sumit bid was made from C2 at 2:05 am on 21 November by Blessley, Olsen, Szymiec, Tyler, Pemba Rinjin and Siddhi Bahadur. All went to the summit. Szymiec was the first to reach the top at 8:00 am ("I ran up, I was cold") in BC the next day. Next were Olsen with Pemba Rinjin at 10:00 am, and last were Blessley, Tyler and Siddhi Bahadur Tamang at 1:00 pm. Szymiec descended all the way to BC at 6:00 pm; all the others stopped in C2 at about 6:00 pm and were in BC the next day.

  Non summiting Ama Dablam member:

  Herbert did not get as far as C1. He climbed to 5500m on 19 November, when the others reached C1, with Siddhi Bahadur. The climb was technically too difficult for Herbert. He and Siddhi Bahadur descended to BC, where Herbert remained while Siddhi Bahadur went up and joined the others.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Rinjin Sherpa, 1/1/65, Tashigaon, Makalu-5, Sankhuwasabha, Everest X4
    Siddhi Bahadur Tamang, 1981, Lamabagar-5, Dolakha, no 8000ers


expid: AMAD09324
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Seth Hobby
sponsor: Northern Alpine Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Germany, Norway, Sweden, UK
bcdate: 2009-11-14
smtdate: 2009-11-21
smttime: 0950
termdate: 2009-11-24
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East
campsites: BC(14/11,4600m),C1(18/11,5700m),C2(19/11,6000m),C3(20/11,6250m),Smt(21/11)
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  The team first went to acclimatize on Lobuche East, which all members and two Sherpas. Tul Singh Tamang and Nima Dorje Tamang, summited on 12 November. 

  On Ama Dablam, they placed their highest camp at 6250m, which Hobby said was safer than the traditional C3 at 6300m that was swept by an avalanche and killed six climbers on November 2006; he called his camp C2.9 and said it was better protected than the 6300m site, although some teams have started using it again, and no bit sof ice were falling off from above.

  The summit party left their third high camp at 5:30 am on 21 November. They were Hobby, Kongtorp, Lagerberg, Payne, and Riehe plus Lama Babu, Nima Dorje Tamang and Tul Singh Gurung. They reached the summit at 9:50 am and descended to C2 between 5:00 pm (Hobby) and 6:30 pm (Lagerberg). All were in BC on the following day.

  Health problems:

  Follows back was painful (see below).

  Lagerberg's fingers became frostnipped and were still numb on 29 November. On summit day, she thought her goggles were fogging up but later realized the problem was with her eyes, which had had laser surgery and therefore susceptible to reaction at extreme conditions.

  Payne twisted his ankle badly just above C1 as he was descending after his summit success. He was on crutches after his return to Kathmandu.

  Riehe got two frostbitten fingers above the highest camp on his way to the top. They were black, but a few days later they were blistering and expected to heal.

  Non-summiting member:

  Follows came on the expedition with a preexisting back problem. She climbed to C1 on 18 November and stayed there that night, but her back was hurting her now; she descended to BC the next day and never went up again.

  Sherpas:
    Lama Babu Sherpa, 23/9/68, Cheremy, Bung, Everest X3
    Nima Dorje (Kala) Tamang, 8/1/80, Chitre, Bakachol, Khotang, Everest X4
    Tul Singh (Tulsi) Gurung, 24/9/83, Laprak-9, Gorkha, Everest X1


expid: AMAD09325
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Andrew Chapman
sponsor: Jagged Globe Ama Dablam Expedition 2009
countries: Canada, Norway, Australia
bcdate: 2009-11-16
smtdate: 2009-11-28
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2009-12-02
campsites: BC(16/11,4600m),C1(20/11,5800m),C2(26/11,6000m),C3(27/11,6300m),Smt(28,30/11)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  The expedition went to the summit in two parties. The first one left C3 for the top on 28 November at 7:00 am. They were Beaman, Ruddle, Sunde-Rasmussen, Walder, Pasang Tenzing, Tshering Pemba and Mingma Gyalze. All were on the summit at 12:30 pm and back in C3 for the night at 4:30 pm. They descended to BC the next day.

  On 30 November at 6:40 am, the second party left C3 for the top. They were Chapman, Greenhalgh, Hardy, Nevile, Ralph, Seabrook, Pema Tshering, Nima Gyalzen and Sherap. The entire group arrived at the summit at 11:30 am and returned to C3 at 3:30 pm that day. BC the next day.

  Non-summiting member:

  Curtler got to 5900m on 26 November on his way with others to establish C2, but the climb was too much for him and he went back to C1 that day; to BC the next day.

  Sherpas:
    Mingma Gyalje, 14/4/86 (1/1/2043), Beding, Everest X2
    Nima Gyalzen, 18/5/76 (5/2/2033), Beding, Everest X8, Cho Oyu X1, Manaslu X2
    Pasang Tenzing, 1/10/84 (15/5/2041), Beding, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X2
    Pema Tshering/Pem Chhiri, 16/12/80, Chankhu-6, Dolakha, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1
    Sherap Sherpa, 8/8/72, Taktar, Beni-3, Solu, Everest X4
    Tshering Pemba, 12/12/85 (27/8/2042), Beding, Everest X2, Manaslu X1


expid: AMAD09326
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Bernard Milian
sponsor: French Trio on Ama Dablam
approach: See route details
bcdate: 2009-11-04
smtdate: 2009-11-07
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2009-11-09
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak by all members and Sherpas on 30 Oct
campsites: BC(04/11,4800m),C1(05/11,5900m),C2(06/11,6400m),Smt(07/11)
agency: Khumbu Shangri-La Nepal
routememo:
  Approach: Lukla->Namche->Gokyo->Cho La->Lobuche->Kalapattar->Island Peak-> Pangboche.

  Laurens couple Milian and Finjo started fr om C2 at midnight of 6 November. Alain Laurens, Milian and Finjo reached summit at 9 am of 7 November. Francoise Laurens climbed up to 6500m and turned around to C2 due to tiredness. Milian, Alain Laurens and Finjo stayed on summit for 10 minutes. They arrived at C2 at 1 pm, continued to C1 where they reached at 6 pm, slept there. Next day to BC. 

  Sherpa:
    Finjo Dorje, 3/9/86, Pangboche, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1


expid: AMAD09327
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Michel Adam
sponsor: A Frenchman and Estonian to Ama Dablam
countries: Estonia
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Dingboche->Island Peak BC->Dingboche
bcdate: 2009-10-13
smtdate: 2009-10-25
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2009-10-26
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak by both on 11 Oct
campsites: BC(13/10,4600m),C1(15/10,5700m),C2(23/10,6100m),Smt(25/10)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Adam left C2 at 6:30 a.m. on 25 Oct, reached summit at 3 pm. He stayed on summit for 10 minutes then descended to C2, slept there in Spanish expedition's tent. Next day 26 Oct reached Pangboche. The summit day weather was good. Adam was the last one to summit on that day. Before him there were about 10 climbers who summited on 25 Oct. 

  Habakuk slept at C1 on 15 Oct. She had stomach problem and did not try for summit.

  Both Adam and Habakuk returned to Kathmandu on 29 Oct and to leave on 30 Oct.


expid: AMAD09328
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Isabelle Charrier
sponsor: Mingmbola Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 2009-11-05
smtdate: 2009-11-10
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2009-11-17
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak by all seven members on 31 Oct
campsites: BC(05/11,4600m),C1(09/11,5800m),Smt(10/11)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  Approach: Chutanga, Zatula La, Tuli Kharka, Kate, Tagnag, Khare, Merala, Mera Peak, Mera La, valley camp, bottom of Chamlang, bottom of Glacier near lake, other side of Glacier

  Isabelle, Denis and Nathalie Charrier, Terragu, Prablanc, Wolter and Zuberer left C1 at 4:30 am of 10 Nov. Denis Charrier, Nathalie Charrier and Wolter reached summit at 2 pm. They stayed on summit for about an hour. Descended to C2 [6000m] at about 5:30 pm and slept in an unoccupied tent. Next day all three descended to BC. The summit day weather was wonderful. 

  Isabelle Charrier stopped at C2 where she reached at about 10 am; she was exhausted. Ferragu climbed up to 6250m (before C3) at about 12:30 pm; she was exhausted back to C1 at 5 pm. Prablanc reached C3 at about 12 noon, exhausted then back to C1. Zuberer was with Ferragu. All members and leader descended to BC on 11 Nov. 

  Five members returned to Kathmandu on 25 November.


expid: AMAD09329
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Damien Francois
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2009-11-06
smtdate: 2009-11-15
termdate: 2009-11-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6167 due to bad weather forecast
campsites: BC(06/11,4600m),C1(10/11,5800m),C2(15/11,6167m),xxx(15/11,6167m)
agency: Adventure Extreme permit
routememo:
  Francois and Pasang spent night at C2 on 15 November. They were planning to put up C3 on 16 Nov. The evening of 15 November, weather started deteriorating, high wind and snowstorm. The team got weather forecast from Canada that said the bad weather will remain for next few days. Then the team decided to give up summit bid and descended to BC on 16 November. 

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Tenzing, 15/06/2041 (01/10/84), Beding, Gaurishankar-1,
      Everest: 2003, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008 
      Cho Oyu: 2006, 2006, 2007
      Ama Dablam: 2008


expid: AMAD09330
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Benjamin Bradford
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Ama Dablam Expedition 2009
approach: Phakding->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2009-10-31
smtdate: 2009-11-12
smttime: 0910
termdate: 2009-11-15
campsites: BC(31/10,4600m),ABC(05/11,5140m),C1(06/11,5400m),C2(10/11,5700m),C3(11/11,6200m),Smt(12/11)
accidents: Auchie got kidney problem on 8 November
agency: Happy Feet Mountaineers
routememo:
  Bradford, Green, Lewis, Ridley, Vardi, Pasang, Lama Babu and Phu Dawa left C3 at 5:30 am and reached summit at 9:10 am, except Vardi who turned around from 6700m. He was too slow and tired. The summiters stayed on summit for 15 minutes and descended to C3 at 11:30 am, then continued to C2 where the team members reached between 5:30-7:20 pm. They spent the night there. Next day descended to BC. The summit day weather was very windy and cold. The wind destroyed 3 tents of the expedition at C3. The team was the first one to summit on that day after this team. There were 8 or 9 foreign climbers on summit and 5-6 Sherpas.

  Auchie slept at C1 on 6 November; he had kidney problem. Auchie left BC with Martin on 8 Nov by helicopter and probably left Nepal on 13 November. Martin's high point was C1 (5400m) on 6 November. 

  Fixed rope: 50m near C1.


expid: AMAD09331
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Franz Kroell
sponsor: Zillerthal Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 2009-10-26
smtdate: 2009-10-29
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2009-10-31
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak on 24 Oct (by all except Walser)
campsites: BC(26/10,4800m),ABC(27/10,5300m),C2(28/10,6100m),Smt(29/10,07/11)
accidents: Hotter suffered from high altitude sickness, frostbite
agency: Himalayan Garden Treks
routememo:
  Approach: Phakding, Namche, Thami, Lungdhen, camp below Renjo la, Gokyo, Gokyo Ri, Thagna, Cho La, Tengla, Lobuche, Kangma La, Chhukung, Island Peak, Chhukung, Pangboche.

  W. Fankhauser, Hotter, Hoerhager started from C2 at 5 am on 29 Oct. Hoerhager reached summit at 10 am, stayed on summit for about 10 minutes and descended to C1 at 2 pm and continued to descend to BC where he reached at 5 pm. Fankhauser reached summit at 1 pm, stayed on summit for an hour waiting for Hotter who reached at the summit at about 2 pm. He stayed on summit for about 10 minutes and descended together. Hotter suffered from high altitude sickness at around 150m below the summit.

  Fankhauser brought Hotter down about 100m. Fankhauser himself was tired and Hotter could not move by himself and it was getting late. They did not carry medicine and there was no walkie-talkie with them. At about 4 pm Fankhauser descended alone to C2 where he reached at 6:30 pm. Fankhauser talked to Kroell who was at C1 with Nicola Fankhauser. Then the situation was informed to BC. The expedition cook managed to bring up medicines and oxygen from BC to C1 between 11 pm-12 pm. Next morning around 6 am, Kroell and Fankhauser saw Hotter moving towards C3 and saw Hotter throwing away his gloves. Meanwhile, Adrian Ballinger with two Sherpas (one of them of Sumit Joshi's team) with oxygen and medicines started from C2 to rescue Hotter. Ballinger team met Hotter at C3 (6500m) at about 11 am and told him that they were there to help him. Hotter angrily told Ballinger that he does not need any help and can go by himself. Then Ballinger told Kroell over walkie-talkie about the bad condition of Hotter. Kroell talked to Hotter and convinced him that he needed help to get down and the Ballinger and Sherpas were there to help him. Finally, Hotter agreed to get help. He was given oxygen and gloves. Ballinger was in contacat with Dr. David from New Zealand at BC for the medication. Both hands and feet of Hotter were frostbitten. He was up on the mountain for about 15 hours without food. The Kroell team wanted to rescue Hotter from C2 by helicopter. But they were told that the heli-rescue from C2 cannot be done. The rescue team and Hotter spent night at C2. Next day five more Sherpas with additional oxygen and supplies went up to C2 to bring Hotter to BC. They arrived BC between 2:30-3 pm.

  Hotter left BC on 1 November by helicopter to Kathmandu and left Nepal on 4 November. 

  Another member of the expedition Walser who returned to Kathmandu from Kailas-Mansarovar trip on 25 October left for Lukla on 28 October and arrived BC on 30 October. He spent night at C1 on 1 November, C2 on 6 November summited on 7 November. Walser left C2 at 4:10 am on 7 November and reached summit at 9 am. He stayed on summit about 15 minutes then descended to C2 at 12 noon continued to C1 at 2 pm and down to BC at 5 pm. He left BC on 9 November.


expid: AMAD09332
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Felix Berktold
sponsor: Two Germans on Ama Dablam
approach: Lukla->Gokyo->Pangboche->Chhukung (to acclimatize)
bcdate: 2009-10-18
smtdate: 2009-10-25
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2009-10-28
campsites: BC(18/10,4600m),C1(22/10,5750m),Smt(25/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  The team summited directly from C1 and they never slept in C2 or C3. After having spent one night at C1 on 22nd October, they descended to BC, stayed there one night and went back to C1 on 24 October.

  For their summit push, they left C1 at 3 am on 25th October. The weather was calm and clear; however, the snow conditions where a bit tricky: very loose snow. They used the fixed ropes put up by the Amical team, but did not fix any ropes themselves. The climb was straightforward, no complications. They reached the summit at 1 pm, stayed for about 20 minutes. Very good views! They descended to C1, where they arrived at 7:30 pm. On 26th October they descended to BC, where they stayed for two more nights. They left BC on 28th October and arrived back in Kathmandu on 1st November.

  Kohler left for Germany on 3rd November and Berktold went to Island Peak with a group on 3rd Novemeber.

  The team did not use oxygen and did not have any Sherpas with them. No injuries.


expid: AMAD09333
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Scott Thomas
sponsor: USA Team on Ama Dablam
approach: Phakding->Namche->Pangboche->Dingboche->Lobuche->Kalapattar
bcdate: 2009-10-15
smtdate: 2009-10-26
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2009-10-29
campsites: BC(15/10,4630m),C1(17/10,5890m),C2(25/10,6100m),Smt(26/10)
agency: Khumbu Adventures
routememo:
  Romersa, Maggart, Pema and Lhakpa left C2 at 3:30 am. Romersa, Pema and Lhakpa reached summit at 12 noon, stayed on summit for about 30 minutes, descended to C2 and slept there. Maggart turned around to C2 from around 21,000 ft; he was slow. The weather was sunny, clear sky and windy. 

  Thomas slept at C2. He did not try to summit. He had to go down to BC where his daughter got sick. 

  Nagel had to leave expedition due to family problem back home. He returned to Kathmandu on 14 Oct from Pangboche and left on 15 Oct.

  Sherpas:
    Pema Chhiring Sherpa, 17/12/83 (2/9/2040), Beding, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X2
    Lhakpa Thundu Sherpa, 20/6/70 (6/3/2027), Pangboche, Ever X7, Cho Oyu X2, etc


expid: AMAD09334
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Sumit Joshi
sponsor: Adventure Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Australia, Japan, Sweden
approach: Phakding->Namche->Tengboche
bcdate: 2009-10-24
smtdate: 2009-11-05
smttime: 1120
termdate: 2009-11-07
campsites: BC(24/10,4600m),C1(28/10,5800m),C2(03/11,6000m),C3(04/11,6300m),Smt(05/11)
achievment: Mrs Cohrs is breast cancer survivor
agency: Adventure Extreme permit
routememo:
  Cohrs couple, Joshi, Kikuchi, Eketoft, Lhakpa, Satish and Jangbu left C3 at 6:15 am. The team reached summit at 11:20 am. They stayed on summit about an hour. All descended to C3 at 3 pm, slept there. Next day went down to BC. Ahead of the Joshi team there were 4 Japanese (Cosmo) on the summit. There was not any other climbers on the summit on that day. The weather on summit day was perfect: no wind, good view.

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 9 Nov and left on 11 Nov.

  Fixed rope: 200m changed below C3.

  Sherpas:
    Jangbu Sherpa, 20/7/87 (4/4/2044), Sisuwakhola-9, Sankhuwasabha
      (Lhakpa's nephew)


  Summit Joshi - December 2010

  Jones was sick and did not climb above C1


expid: AMAD09335
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Walter Fetscher
sponsor: Swiss Ama Dablam
bcdate: 2009-10-28
smtdate: 2009-11-01
smttime: 0945
termdate: 2009-11-04
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak on 27 Oct
campsites: BC(28/10,4600m),C1(30/10,5800m),C2(31/10,6100m),Smt(01/11)
agency: Matterhorn Treks
routememo:
  Approach: Phakding, Namche, Dole, Pheriche, Gokyo, Tagnar, Jamla, Gorak Shep, Dingboche, Chhukung, Island Peak BC, Dingboche.

  Luethi, Fetscher, Meyer and Ngima left C2 at 4 am on 1 Nov. The team reached summit at 9:45 am. Stayed on summit for 15-40 minutes. The team descended to C2 at 1 pm ,then continued down to BC at 6 pm. On summit day there was an Italian mountain guide with a Sherpa summiter ahead of Swiss team and after that there were on summit 2 Belgians with 2 Sherpas and two more climbers. The weather was perfect on the summit day. 

  Luethi returned to Kathmandu on 5 November and left on 8 November. Fetscher and Meyer returned to Kathmandu on 6 Nov. Fetscher left on 7 Nov.


expid: AMAD09336
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Belarus
leaders: Nikolay Bandalet
sponsor: Belarus Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Phakding->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2009-10-13
smtdate: 2009-10-26
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2009-10-28
campsites: BC(13/10,3900m),ABC(18/10,5100m),C1(20/10,5600m),C2(25/10,5800m),Smt(26/10)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  Bandalet, Prachakov and Chtrykov left C2 at 4 am. They arrived to the summit at 4 pm. They stayed spent the night at C2. Next day went to Pangboche. The summit day weather conditions were good. There were about 8 climbers who summited on that day. 

  Fralova slept at C1 on 20 Oct. She had throat problem and did not try for the summit. 

  Filimonov and Sushko too suffered from sore throat and left the expedition from Pangboche on 20 Oct and arrived Kathmandu on 24 Oct.


expid: AMAD09337
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Iran
leaders: Mohammad Madani
sponsor: Dream Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 2009-11-06
smtdate: 2009-11-15
termdate: 2009-11-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6167m due to bad weather forecast
campsites: BC(06/11,4600m),C1(10/11,5800m),C2(15/11,6167m),xxx(15/11,6167m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Madani and Ang Phurba spent the night of 15 Nov at C2. They were suppose to go to C3 next day. But during the night the wind started picking up, storm, and forecast said it will remain bad for next few days. On 16 Nov the team descended to BC.

  Sherpa:
    Ang Phurba Sherpa, 10/5/2024 (26/8/67), Choplung, Chaurikharka-3, Cho Oyu X5, 
      Everest X2


expid: AMAD09338
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Bulgaria
leaders: Gueorgui Gueorguiev
sponsor: Free Mountains Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 2009-11-20
smtdate: 2009-11-23
smttime: 0945
termdate: 2009-11-24
campsites: BC(20/11,4600m),ABC(21/11,5400m),C2(22/11,6100m),Smt(23/11)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Gueorguiev, Vatev, Valchev, Hristova and Kinov started their summit bid from C2 between 4-4:15 am. Gueorguiev reached summit at 9:45 am, stayed on summit for 30 minutes and back to C2 around 1 pm. Vatev, Valchev, Hristova and Kinov reached summit by 12 noon. Hristova was the last one to reach to the summit. By 4 pm all members were back to C2, slept there. Next day all climbers descended to Pangboche. 

  Volkov left expedition on 15 Nov from Island Peak BC due to business back home; he returned to Kathmandu on 27 November.


expid: AMAD09339
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Massimo Lucco
sponsor: One Italian on Ama Dablam
approach: Phakding->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2009-10-22
smtdate: 2009-11-01
smttime: 0845
termdate: 2009-11-03
campsites: BC(22/10,4800m),C1(26/10,5800m),C2(31/10,6100m),Smt(01/11)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Lucco and Tshering Jangbu left C2 at 3 am on 1 Nov. They reached summit at 8:45 am, stayed on summit for about 30 minutes, then descended to BC. Weather was very good, clear sky and no wind. 

  Lucco returned to Kathmandu on 5 November and left on 6 November for home. Lucco and Andrighettoni shared the Sherpa.

  Sherpas:
    Tshering Jangbu Sherpa, 01/08/77, Rakshi Kharka, Lokhim-9, Everest X2, 
      Lhotse X2, Cho Oyu X1


expid: AMAD09340
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Mario Castiglioni
sponsor: Mariolaguida (MLG) Ama Dablam
countries: Bulgaria, France, Switzerland
approach: Phakding->Namche->Pangboche->Dingboche->Island Peak BC->Dingboche
bcdate: 2009-11-15
smtdate: 2009-11-23
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2009-11-25
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak on 15 Nov by all 9 members
campsites: BC(15/11,4600m),C1(18/11,5700m),C2(20/11,6100m),Smt(23/11)
accidents: Hlebarova-Hidzhova suffered from HAS
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Castiglioni, Ms Shipkova, Roncoroni, Ms Bassi and Schneidt left C2 at 3:30 am for the summit. Castiglioni and Roncoroni reached summit at 10:30 am. Ms Bassi arrived the summit at 10:50 am. She stayed on summit about 5 minutes and descended to C2. Ms. Shipkova and Schneidt arrived at the summit by 12 noon. Castiglioni stayed on summit for 2 hours and rest of the members between 15 and 20 minutes. All the members descended to C2 by 3:30 pm. All descended to BC next day. The summit day weather was perfect.

  Ms Hlebarova-Hidzhova suffered from HAS in Dingboche and left the expedition on 12 November with Baranzini. Baggi slept at C2 and did not try for the summit he was tired. Barandon slept at C1 and did not try for the summit due to backache. The team returned to Kathmandu on 27 Nv and will leave on 29 Nov.

  Sherpa:
    Rita Dorje Sherpa, 24/10/77,\ (8/7/2034), Phortse, Everest X5


expid: AMAD09341
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Tim Mosedale
sponsor: British Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2009-11-07
smtdate: 2009-11-21
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2009-11-24
campsites: BC(07/11,4300m),C1(14/11,5800m),C1(14/11,5800m),C2(19/11,6000m),C3(20/11,6250m),Smt(21/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  On summit day, Holmes and Booth started from C2 at 5 am, Orrell, Ruck, Stewart, Mosedale and Lhakpa Sherpa started from C3 at 9 am. The weather was calm and clear and the conditions good.

  Mosedale turned around about 100m short of the summit due to very cold feet and returned to C2 where he arrived at 7 pm. The rest carried on and summited around lunch time.

  The summit team (apart from Booth) descended to C3, where they arrived at 3:30 pm. Both descended to C2, where he arrived at 4 pm.

  On 22nd November, Allen and Lhakpa (again) started from C3 for the summit and they reached 6500m. Allen was tired and had very cold feet (it was very windy that day) so they decided to turn around. They descended to C1, where they arrived at 4:30 pm.

  Driesen never made it out of ABC as he was too exhausted and had a chest infection.

  The team left BC on 24th.

  Note: Stuart Holmes paraglided off the summit.


expid: AMAD09342
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Mario Lacedelli
sponsor: Scoiattuli & Friends Expedition Ama Dablam 2009
bcdate: 2009-11-07
smtdate: 2009-11-11
smttime: 0942
termdate: 2009-11-14
campsites: BC(07/11,4650m),C1(9/11,5750m),C2(10/11,6150m),Smt(11/11)
agency: International Sherpa Adventure
routememo:
  Approach: Phakding, Namche, Thami, Lungdhen, Renjo Pass, Gokyo, Gokyo Ri, Dragnag, Cho La Pass, Lobuche, Kalapattar, Pangboche.

  Constantni, Lacedelli, Pavanello, Rezzadore, Sottsass, Zardini, Pemba and Dorje left C2 for summit at 2:10 am of 11 Nov. Costantini and Dorje turned around to C2 from around 6350m as Constantini's hands started getting cold. Lacedelli, Zardini and Pemba reached summit at 9:42 am, stayed on summit for 15 minutes and descended to C2 at about 3 pm. Sottsass reached summit at about 10:30 am, stayed on summit for 40 minutes then to C2 at 3:30 pm. Pavanello reached summit at 10:45 am, stayed on summit about 20 minutes, then to C2 at 3:45 pm. Rezzadore reached summit at 11:30 am, stayed on summit for 10 minutes, then descended to C2 at 4:15 pm. Next day all descended to BC. The summit day weather was cold and windy. Snow condition was good. 

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Rinji, 3/10/70, Kharikhola, Everest X2
    Dorje Sherpa, 1/10/65, Thamo, Everest X14, Makalu X1, Cho Oyu X1


expid: AMAD09343
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Tap Richards
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Ama Dablam Expedition 2009
bcdate: 2009-11-06
smtdate: 2009-11-08
termdate: 2009-11-11
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to his friend Botur was sick and not able to climb more
othersmts: Attempted Lobuche East
campsites: BC(06/11,4600m),C1(08/11,5820m),xxx(08/11,5900m)
accidents: Emmett's illness
agency: Beyul Adventure
routememo:
  The two-member team [Richards and Emmett] went first to Lobuche East, and climbed for one hour above their high camp in their summit bid. Emmett now had a bad cough and was too weak to continue. They descended to Dingboche hoping that Emmett would recover, but his health did not improve and he abandoned his plan to climb Ama Dablam.

  On 6 November, Emmett left for Lukla while Richards went to Ama Dablam BC with IMG's climbing sirdar, Ang Pasang. "I had planned to work with Freddy (Botur, an independent climber) on the Ama Dablam climb," Richards explained. "I went to the mountain in support of his attempt."

  Richard went to C1 on 8 November in support of Botur and stayed there while Botur climbed to C2 the next day. But now Botur "was quite sick on the evening of the 9th." They both went down to BC on the 10th and left the following day. 

  Sherpa:
    Ang Pasang Sherpa, 11/2/66, Pangboche, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X4


expid: AMAD09344
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Frederick Botur
sponsor: Independent on Ama Dablam
bcdate: 2009-11-06
smtdate: 2009-11-09
termdate: 2009-11-11
termnote: Abandoned at 6060m due to Botur's illness
campsites: BC(06/11,6400m),C1(08/11,5820m),C2(09/11,6060m),xxx(09/11,6060m)
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  Tapley Richards was the leader of a two-member Ama Dablam expedition organized by IMG. Richards and friend Frederick Botur, who went to Ama Dablam as an independent climber, were to be on the mountain at the same time; Richards had planned to "work with" Botur on Ama Dablam. Even when the IMG client, Richard Emmett, had to cancel his climb because of illness, Richards nevertheless went to Ama Dablam and climbed with Botur up to C1.

  Botur went to C2 alone on 9 November, but became quite sick that evening. The next day he descended to BC, and he and Richards left on the 11th.


expid: AMAD09345
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Mario Andrighettoni
sponsor: Francesca-Mario Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Phakding->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2009-10-22
smtdate: 2009-10-27
termdate: 2009-10-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to critical health situation of father of Raffaelli
campsites: BC(22/10,4800m),C1(26/10,5800m),xxx(27/10,6100m)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Andrighettoni, Raffaelli and Tshering Jangbu spent the night of 26 Oct in C1. On 27 Oct they went up to C2 and descended to BC same day. On 28 Oct Andrighettoni got message that his father-in-law was in a critical health situation. Then Andrighettoni and his wife Raffaelli left BC on 29 Oct. They returned to Kathmandu on 2 Nov and left for home same day.

  Sherpas:
    Tshering Jangbu Sherpa, 1/8/1977, Rakshi Kharka, Lokhim-9, Everest X2, 
      Lhotse X2, Cho Oyu X1


expid: AMAD09346
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Robert Jasper
sponsor: Deutsche Pumori Expedition
bcdate: 2009-10-20
smtdate: 2009-10-25
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2009-10-28
othersmts: Attempted Pumori (PUMO-093-04)
campsites: BC(20/10,4650m),C1(22/10,5750m),Smt(25/10)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  BC  20/10
  C1  22/10  (5750m)
  Smt 25/10  by Treppte (with Berktold and Kohler) at 1 pm.

  They had intended to go Ama Dablam and Cholatse from Pumori, and to climb Ama Dablam by an uncommon route from the south-southwest. But they had heard and seen that there was too much snow on Ama Dablam, so on the 20th Jasper decided to go home (he had no interest in Ama Dablam's normal route) while Treppte went directly to Ama Dablam and joined two other Germans, Felix Berktold and Christian Kohler, on the SW Ridge route.

  Treppte arrived at Ama Dablam BC that day, Oct 20th, slept in C1 on the 22nd, and followed the same pattern as Berktold and Kohler: returned to BC on the 23rd, went back to C1 on the 24th and summited with them at 1:00 pm on the 25th.

  Treppte did not then attempt Cholatse since his climbing partner was already in Germany and Treppte did not want to try it alone.


expid: ANN109301
peakid: ANN1
year: 2009
route1: N Face (Dutch Rib)
nation: S Korea
leaders: Hong Bo-Seong
sponsor: Dynamic Busan 2009 Hope Annapurna Expedition
approach: Beni->Lete->Thulobugin Pass
bcdate: 2009-09-18
smtdate: 2009-10-03
termdate: 2009-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to jet stream and danger of avalanche
othersmts: Climbed Tharpu Chuli on 1 Nov by all three members
campsites: BC(18/09,4100m),ABC(19/09,5100m),C1(25/09,5400m),C2(26/09,6100m),C3(02/10,6700m),xxx(03/10,7200m)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  Kim and Seo left C3 at 1 am on 3 Oct and reached at 7200m at 4:30 am. There was white-out, snowfall, so they turned around to C3 at 6:30 am. They slept at C3. Next day descended to BC. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 9 Nov and will leave on 11 Nov. 

  Before the team's return the leader and members trekked to Annapurna South. They crossed the glacier to reach Tharpu Chuli BC which they put up on 28 Oct at 4080m and C1 on 29 Oct at 4700m. They summited Tharpu Chuli on 1 Nov at 9:20 am, and stayed on summit for about one hour; good weather, no wind, very good view. They descended to BC same day. They left Tharpu Chuli BC on 2 Nov for Pun Hill, then to Pokhara. From Pokhara they went to Chitwan. 

  On Annapurna, leader climbed up to 5100m and rest of the time he stayed at BC. 

  Fixed rope: 300m above C3.


expid: ANN109302
peakid: ANN1
year: 2009
route1: N Face (Dutch Rib)
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Hong-Bin
sponsor: 2009 Annapurna Expedition
approach: Beni->Lete->Bheri Kharka->Nilgiri BC->Khum Khola
bcdate: 2009-09-18
smtdate: 2009-10-03
termdate: 2009-10-09
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to bad weather, deep snow and white-out
campsites: BC(18/09,4100m),C1(27/09,5600m),C2(28/09,6400m),C3(02/10,7100m),xxx(03/10,7700m)
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal
routememo:
  Kim's summit bid started from BC to C1 on 1 Oct. On 2 Oct to C3, started from C3 at 00:30 of 3 Oct with Miss Oh and Kim Jae-Soo. When the team arrived at 7700m it was complete white-out, started snow shower and wind. The team and others descended to C1 where they reached at 7:10 pm, slept there next day to BC. 

  The team left BC on 9 Oct by helicopter to Lete, trekked to Beni and by bus to Kathmandu on 11 Oct. Kim team will leave Kathmandu on 16 Oct. 

  Kim is planning to come for Cho Oyu or Annapurna I in Spring 2010.

  Fixed rope: 300m contributed.

  Sherpas:
    Tendi Sherpa, 21/11/87 (05/08/2044), Makalu-9, no 8000ers (new Sherpa) 
      (his high point was below C3)
    Phurba Ongel Sherpa, 30/7/81 (15/04/2038), Sedua, Makalu-9, 
      summited Annapurna I in Spring 2009 with Korean team


expid: ANN109303
peakid: ANN1
year: 2009
route1: N Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Jae-Soo
sponsor: Go Memorial Annapurna I Expedition
approach: Beni->Lete->Thulobugin Pass
bcdate: 2009-09-06
smtdate: 2009-10-03
termdate: 2009-10-09
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to heavy snow and serac avalanche
campsites: BC(06/09,4100m),ABC(14/09,5100m),C1(24/09,5600m),C2(01/10,6400m),C3(02/10,7100m),xxx(03/10,7700m)
accidents: Kim, Mun and three Sherpas hit by serac avalanche
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  Kim started his summit bid from C3 at 1:30 am on 3 October with Mun, Tshering, Sona and Pasang. When the team reached at 7700m around 10 am there was lots of snow, strong wind and total white-out. Then the team and other Korean expeditions including Miss Oh turned around. Kim descended to BC where he reached at 10:30 pm. There was heavy snowfall and rain in BC for 4-5 days.

  Note:

  Earlier on 25 September Kim, Mun, Tshering, Sona and Pasang were swept about 100m from a serac avalanche between C1-C2 at 6300m. Kim was hit on his back by a big serac block and swept about 70m. Kim still suffering from pain on his back. Mun was swept about 100m and lost his backpack and climbing gear and was about to fall into a big crevasse. Luckily he just stopped at
  the mouth of crevasse. Similarly, the three Sherpas also swept between 50m to 80m, but all of them survived. Some of the serac blocks from the avalanche fell down to BC.

  Kim may try agin on Annapurna I in the next Spring and may go to Cho Oyu first.

  Fixed rope: between C1->C2 and halfway to C3.


expid: ANN109304
peakid: ANN1
year: 2009
route1: N Face (Dutch Rib)
nation: S Korea
leaders: Oh Eun-Sun
sponsor: Oh Eun-Sun Annapurna Expedition
approach: Beni->Tatopani->Lete->Bheri Kharka->Nilgiri BC->Khum Khola
bcdate: 2009-09-21
smtdate: 2009-10-03
termdate: 2009-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to strong wind and lots of snow
campsites: BC(21/09,4190m),ABC(23/09,5100m),C1(27/09,5600m),C top(02/10,6800m),xxx(03/10,7900m)
agency: Korean Treks & Expeditions
routememo:
  Miss Oh's first attempt started on 17 October after spending two nights at ABC with Chhiji Nurbu, Pema and Pasang. They had to turn around from 5600m (C1) due to deep snow, one and half meters deep. 

  On the second attempt Oh started from 6800m, her top camp between C2 and C3 with Cheong, Pema, Dawa, Chhiji Nurbu and Pasang at 11:53 am on 2 October. When the team reached at about 7900m at 9:20 am on 3 October, the wind started picking up and snow fell; it was total white-out. Then the team turned back to top camp where they reached at 12:30 pm. They continued to descend to ABC and next day to BC. 

  The team left BC by helicopter to Pokhara and returned to Kathmandu on 25 October.

  Miss Oh will be back to Annapurna I in the Spring 2010.

  Fixed rope: 300m above 6800m.

  Sherpas:
    Pema Tshering, 16/6/70 (2/3/2027), Walung, Makalu-9, Everest X3, Dhaulagiri X2,
      Lhotse X1, Kangch X1
    Dawa Wangchuk, 17/12/72, Mathilow, Walung, Makalu-9, Kangch X4, Everest X3, etc.
    Chhiji Nurbu, 30/7/80 (15/04/2037), Upper Walung, Makalu-9, Makalu X1, 
      Annapurna I X1
    Pasang Tenzing/Tenji, 12/10/08 (10/08/2038), Upper Walung, Manaslu X1


expid: ANN409301
peakid: ANN4
year: 2009
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Juerg Anderegg
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Annapurna IV Expedition 2009
countries: Austria
approach: Pokhara->Hongde->camp at 3600m
bcdate: 2009-10-17
smtdate: 2009-11-02
termdate: 2009-11-03
termnote: Abandoned at 7150m due to sudden high wind
campsites: BC(17/10,4800m),C1(20/10,5450m),C2(24/10,6050m),C3(01/11,6550m),xxx(02/11,7150m)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  Pasche couple left C3 with Dendi at 1:30 am on 2 Nov; Anderegg and Stoll left C3 at about 2:30 am; Grubhofer left with Mingma at about 3 am. Anderegg, Olivier Pasche, Stoll and Dendi reached 7150m at about 7:30 am, but they had to turn around to C3 due to sudden high wind; they reached BC at 3 pm same day. 

  Grubhofer tuned around from 6600m with Mingma to BC. Grobhofer felt very cold. 

  Mrs Pasche turned around from 6700m as her toes started getting cold. 

  Zweifel went up to C1; he too felt very cold and did not want to continue further up. 

  Until about C1 there was waist-deep snow; above C2 strong wind.

  Fixed rope: 700m below C1 and above C1->C2.

  Sherpas:
    Mitenjen Sherpa, 15/04/2026 (30/07/69), Nurbugaon, Makalu-5, Cho Oyu X1, 
      Everest X2
    Dendi Sherpa, 08/10/2039 (22/01/83), Deku, Taksindu-5, Cho Oyu X1


expid: ARNK09301
peakid: ARNK
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
sponsor: Paulo Arniko Chuli Expedition
approach: Jomsom->Chharka Bhot->Chharka Tulsi Khola->Nakhkhem Khola->BC
bcdate: 2009-09-29
smtdate: 2009-09-29
termdate: 2009-10-02
termnote: Abandoned at 5665m due to Arniko's SW Ridge 'not interesting'
campsites: BC1(29/09,5500m),BC2(30/09,5450m),xxx(29/09,5665m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC1 south of mountain
  BC2 southeast of mountain
  High point at Ghanagor Pass.

  Grobel and his team did not know the best approach route to the mountain and went by much longer way: from Jomsom, they trekked northwest to Chharka Bhot, then east and northeast via the Chharka Tulsi Khola to the Nakhkhem Khola to BC1 at 5500m north of the Nakhkhem Khola and south of Arniko Chuli.

  They arrived at BC1 on 29 September, and the same day Grobel went up onto Chanagor Pass on Arniko Chuli's SW Ridge. Here he could see that this summit ridge was not difficult but was "not interesting," so he returned to base and the attempt on the mountain [was abandoned].

  On 30 September the team moved to their BC2 at 5450m east of BC1 and north of their next objective, the unnamed point 6026m which Grobel named Anige Chuli, which he said was the original name of Arniko Chuli. That day Bonhomme, Chavy, Flaven and Grobel, plus Gyalzen Sherpa, climbed its west snow slope.

  On 1 October the same four Frenchmen and Sherpa went north from BC2 and scaled the western snow slope of the unnamed point 6060m, on which Grobel bestowed to name Typhoon Peak in honor of the Japanese climber-explorer Tamotsu Ohnishi, who had been in this area in the summer of 2002. The team's climbing phase was not ended.

  On 2 October they left BC2 and went east via the Kekyap La and a path used by locals north to Lho Manthang village. This Grobel thinks is the best approach to Arniko Chuli. They arrived at Lho Manthang on 4 October. They visited the area and made their way south via the Kali Gandaki River to Jomsom, and from there returned by road to Kathmandu in the very early morning of 14 October.

  Montus-Auge did no climbing because he was it fit enough and was tired.

  Sherpa:
    Gyalzen Sherpa, 26 yrs old, Walung, Makalu-9, no 8000ers


expid: BARU09301
peakid: BARU
year: 2009
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Andreas Bucher
sponsor: Amical Alpin Baruntse Expedition 2009
ascent1: 97th
countries: Austria, Switzerland
approach: Via Lukla
bcdate: 2009-10-07
smtdate: 2009-10-17
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2009-10-19
campsites: BC(07/10,5400m),C1(10/10,6100m),C2(16/10,6400m),Smt(17/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC by small lake (normal site)
  C1 just over West Col
  C2 below SE Ridge (below normal site).

  C2 was established at 6400m below the SE Ridge, a little lower than the normal site, because this place was more sheltered from the wind. From here the team made their summit push.

  All 11 members and both Sherpas left C2 for top at 3:00 am on 17 Oct (at the same time as an Adventure Consultants team). At 6900m, they encountered a big crevasse which traversed the whole ridge. This problem was solved by the expert climbing by one of Adventure Consultants most experienced Sherpas, Lhakpa Rita, who was climbing now with an independent American, Vanessa Folkerts. Carrying a rope and a shovel and using an ice axe in each hand, he climbed the upper right side of the crevasse. The upper side was about 20m above the lower side. When he reached the top, he let down the rope and cut steps in the upper side. Now the members could reach the opposite side of the crevasse and continue up the ridge to the summit.

  But here at 6900m, two members turned back: Schmalzl, whose old back injury was starting to hurt, and Waag, who was late reaching this point; he got there at 12:00 noon, when summiters were arriving in their descent.

  The summiters were on the top between 10:00 and 11:30 am in very clear weather and no wind, and the temperature was not very cold, only minus 13 degrees Celcius. They were: Bucher, Ernst, Issler, Kleine, Lenzen, Ramsebner, Steiner, Wagner and Wangeler, with their Sherpas Chuldim and Ngima Tenji.

  All descended to C2 by 3:00 pm and to C1 at 5:00 pm; Bucher, Ramsebner, Steiner and Wangeler continued to BC the same day. Everyone was together at their base on the 18th.

  The team were very lucky about the weather. They had no problem with the wind, but on the 18th, the day after their success, the weather changed and very strong wind started to blow.

  Sherpas:
    Chuldim, 10/9/71, Khumjung, Cho Oyu X8
    Ngima Tenji, 31/8/84 (15/5/2041), Chechewa, Waku-9, Solu, no 8000ers
    Lhakpa Rita, 9/9/66, Thami originally, now Seattle, Everest X12, Cho Oyu X6


expid: BARU09302
peakid: BARU
year: 2009
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Denmark
leaders: Glyn Cullen, Rene Johanson
sponsor: Team Vertical Baruntse 2009
ascent1: 98th
countries: S Africa
bcdate: 2009-10-05
smtdate: 2009-10-17
smttime: 1045
termdate: 2009-10-20
othersmts: Atempted Mera Peak on 30 Sept-1 Oct (to 6100m)
campsites: BC(05/10,5400m),C1(08/10,6100m),C2(16/10,6500m),Smt(17/10)
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  BC next to lake (normal site)
  C1 at east side of West Col
  C2 at bottom of ridge.

  The team went first to Mera Peak for acclimatization, and both members got atitude sickness which prevented their going above 6100m during their climb on 30 Sept-1 Oct.

  In their Baruntse summit push, Cullen and Johansen, plus Sherpas Sonam Dorje and Lhakpa Tshering, left BC and went directly to C2 on 16 October. On the 17th they left C2 for the top at 3:30 am. When Cullen reached the big crevasse at about 7000m at 9:00 am, he turned around: the climb was now too technical for him; he returned to C2. Sonam Dorje told Lhakpa Tshering to go down with Cullen; Lhakpa Tshering apparently misunderstood and went down from 7050m to C2 by himself.

  Johansen and Sonam Dorje continued to the summit and arrived there at about 10:45 am. They, too, went back to C2 and were there at 2:00 pm. Johansen was very tired and stayed there for the night, while Sonam Dorje descended to BC and Johansen followed him there on the 18th.

  Cullen was in C1 on the 17th, and he also descended to C2 on the 18th.

  They had no health problems on Baruntse.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Tshering, 19 years old, Pangboche, no 8000ers
    Sonam Dorje, 18/1/86 (5/10/2042), Pangboche, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1


expid: BARU09303
peakid: BARU
year: 2009
route1: SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Remy Lecluse
sponsor: French Expedition Baruntse
ascent1: 99th,101
approach: Via Amphu Laptsa
bcdate: 2009-10-16
smtdate: 2009-10-22
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2009-10-27
campsites: BC(16/10,5445m),C1(19/10,6160m),Smt(22,25/10)
accidents: Gerard Costa's altitude sickness
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  BC by lake
  C1 20 minutes above West Col.

  The team summited on two different days. The first party went for the top from C1 at 3:00 am on 22 October. They were Gregory Costa, Gerard Costa, Remy Lecluse and Pasang Tenzing. At 6200m, Gerard Costa developed altitude sickness so turned back, and Lecluse went down with him; they descended all the way to BC that day. Gerard's son Gregory continued with Pasang Tenzing to the summit, where they arrived at 11:30 am. They went down to C1, rested for an hour, and then joined Lecluse and Gerard Costa in BC at 4:30 pm.

  On the 25th, Lecluse and Gregory Costa went for the summit. They left C1 at 1:30 am and got to the top at 9:00 am as a slightly strong wind blew up. They went to BC at 3:45 pm after the others had come up and joined them in packing up C1.

  The large crevasse at 6900m presented no problem to them, despite the fact that steps dug by Lhakpa Rita on an expedition up before them had make steps on its upper side for his team to surmount it. This team saw no steps, but they were not needed.

  Lecluse got frostnip on his nose and four frostbitten toes, which will heal.

  Non-summiting members:

  Oncins went to C1 only.

  Vial went as far as the West Col with the 25 October party, but then abandoned the climb. He was not fit and was uncomfortable throughout the climbing period; furthermore he had pulled the tendon of one finger on his left hand on the first day of the approach march out of Lukla.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Tenzing, 1/10/84, Beding, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X2


expid: BARU09304
peakid: BARU
year: 2009
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Arnold Coster
sponsor: International Baruntse Expedition
ascent1: 106
countries: Denmark, Germany, Greece, Netherlands, Norway, UK, USA
bcdate: 2009-10-25
smtdate: 2009-10-30
smttime: 1005
termdate: 2009-11-02
othersmts: Mera Peak
campsites: BC(25/10,5400m),C1(27/10,6100m),C2(29/10,6400m),Smt(30/10)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  BC near lake (normal site)
  C1 on east side of West Col
  C2 100m below SE Ridge.

  The 14 member expedition sent 11 members and seven Sherpas to the summit, all on the same day. They were Bargferde, Coster, David Doutney, Graham, Horton, Kiriakakis, Maher, Mazur, Pattison, Skrede, Tomordy, Sherpas Jangbu, Lhakpa Nuru, Lhakpa Tendu, Maya, Pasang, Sange and Tenji.

  They set out from C2 at 5:30 am, early in the morning to avoid strong wind. All reached the summit at various times: the first to the top were Jangbu and Lhakpa Nuru at 10:05 am fixing rope, while members were there between 10:40 am (Graham, Horton, Maher, Pattison and Skrede) and 12:45 am (Mazur).

  The members who spent that night in C2 were Bargferde, Coster, Doutney, Kiriakakis, Mazur and Tomordy, and Lhakpa Nuru stayed with them. They got back to C2 between 5:30 and 7:00 pm. All the the other summiters, who were the fastest, continued down to C1 at 2:00 pm. Everyone was together in BC on the 31st.

  Non-summiting memebrs

  Currie reached C2's site on 28 October and immediately descended to BC because a surgical site on his body was bleeding.

  Charles Doutney never slept above BC, climbed to 5800m once on 26 October; he was unfit.

  Rasmussen slept in C2 on 29 October but went down to BC the next day; she was not acclimatizing.

  Sherpas:
    Jangbu Sherpa, 24/5/67, Patle, Okhaldhunga, Cho Oyu X3, Everst X4, Lhotse X1
    Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa, 21/8/81, Chaurikharka, Solu, Everst X1, Lhotse X1
    Lhakpa Tendi Sherpa, (15/12/2033), Patle, Okhaldhunga, no 8000ers
    Mrs Maya Sherpa, 3/1/78, Patle, Okhaldhunga, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X2
    Pasang Sherpa, Patle, Okhaldhunga, no 8000ers
    Sange Sherpa, (7/2/2028), Dinding, Sankhuwasabha
    Tenji Sherpa, 1/6/82, Patle, Okhaldhunga, Everst X4


expid: BARU09305
peakid: BARU
year: 2009
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Paul Donovan
sponsor: Jagged Globe Baruntse Expedition 2009
countries: Netherlands
approach: From east (Arun Valley-Barun La)
bcdate: 2009-11-02
smtdate: 2009-11-04
termdate: 2009-11-08
termnote: Abandoned at 6150m due to porter's departure, so lack of food
campsites: BC(02/11,5650m),ABC(04/11,6150m),xxx(04/11,6150m)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  BC  below East Col
  ABC above West Col on plateau between East and West Col.

  Twenty four of the expedition's thirty-three porters deserted before arrival at BC, the reason for which Donovan doesn't know. This left the team low on food by the time they established ABC, and forced the cancellation of the climb, which was especially unfortunate because the weather was "fantastic."

  They retreated over the West Col to make a new BC near the lake where most expeditions put their BCs. The new camp was pitched at 5550m on 6 November and a helicopter evacuation requested. The winds were too strong for the helicopter to come on the 7th, but it managed to arrive on the 8th to take the entire party to Kathmandu.

  On the 6th, a member and a kitchen boy had already been evacuated by helicopter: King with mild pulmonary edema and the kitchen boy with cerebral edema.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Dorje, 12/8/68 (28/4/2025), Garima-5, Solu
    Jangbu, 27/8/85 (11/5/2042), Balakharka, Makalu-5, Everest X3
    Pasang, 20/2/83 (8/11/2039), Naragaon, Makalu-4, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1, 
      Makalu X1

  Kitchen boy:
    Thirtha Magar, 23/4/80 (11/1/2037), Lage, Salleri-7, Solu


expid: BARU09306
peakid: BARU
year: 2009
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Ewa Szczesniak
sponsor: Baruntse Polish Expedition
approach: Trekked from west and Amphu Laptsa to normal site near lake
bcdate: 2009-09-24
smtdate: 2009-10-03
termdate: 2009-10-06
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to impossible crevasse
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(24/09,5450m),C1(26/09,6130m),C2(02/10,6450m),xxx(03/10,7000m)
agency: Mountain Tribes Trekking
routememo:
  ABC at east side of West Col
  C2  below SE Ridge
  High point on SE Ridge.

  Before going to Baruntse, the team acclimatized by climbing Island peak. All members (except the leader) and three Sherpas summited on 20 September.

  The team's high point was reached on 3 October by Fronia and Horzela with Sherpas Ang Nuri and Gyalju. They left C2 at 7:30-8:30 am. When Fronia reached 6700m, he found a big crevasse. He managed to get around it on its left side, but the next one at 7000m was impassable: its sides were vertical very soft snow, which would not hold pitons or crampons, and there was no way around this one. Both members and both Sherpas got to this point and agreed they had to give up. They were back in BC at 5:30 to 7:30 pm and the climb of Baruntse was abandoned on the 4th.

  The only health problems were suffered by two porters. One, Ram Bahadur Rai from Sotang, developed pulmonary edema at BC the day the team arrived there. He was given oxygen and sent with the other porters; he recovered at 5000m. The other, Tita Bahadur Rai from Khotang, arrived at BC on 6 October to carry a load away from BC in the team's departure. That day, at Seto Pokhari, he became seriously ill from pneumonia, and he was carried for three days to Lukla.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Nuri, 21/3/56, Mopung, Beni-5, Solu
    Gyalju Sherpa, Yawa, Taksindu-6, Solu


expid: BARU09307
peakid: BARU
year: 2009
route1: SE Rdge
nation: USA
leaders: Vanessa Folkerts
sponsor: Vanessa & Lhakpa Rita Baruntse Expedition
ascent1: 96th
approach: Lukla & Ampha Laptsa
bcdate: 2009-10-13
smtdate: 2009-10-17
othersmts: Climbed Cho Oyu (CHOY-093-16); attempted Ama Dablam (AMAD-093-18)
campsites: Biv1(13/10,5400m),Biv2(14/10,6100m),Biv3(15/10,6400m),Smt(17/10)
agency: None
routememo:
  Biv1 normal site by lake
  Biv2 just over West Col
  Biv3 below SE Ridge.

  The team had no fixed base camp or higher camps, but moved their tent with them as they climbed. They were the first team to get above the huge crevasse across the SE Ridge that had turned back earlier expeditions. Lhakpa Rita solved the problem: carrying a rope and a shovel and using an ice axe in each hand, he climbed the upper right side of the crevasse. The upper side was about 20m above the lower side. When he reached the top, he let down the rope and cleared the snow from the upper side.

  They reached the summit on 17 October and returned to their high bivouac at 6400m to sleep. The next day they descended to the BC area and continued to Seto Pokhari.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Rita, 9/9/66, Thami originally, now Seattle, Everest X12, Cho Oyu X6


expid: BARU09308
peakid: BARU
year: 2009
route1: SE Rdge
nation: USA
leaders: Jim Williams
sponsor: Exploradus Baruntse Expedition 2009
ascent1: 107
countries: Australia
approach: See route details
bcdate: 2009-11-20
smtdate: 2009-11-25
smttime: 1220
termdate: 2009-11-27
campsites: BC(20/11,5432m),C1(23/11,6117m),Smt(25/11)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  Four members Bennett, Glynn, O'Mara and Williams took (for them) an exploratory route to reach their mountain (Leonard went more directly). From Kathmandu the four went by road to Singati, a village northwest of Jiri, and then trekked north and east via Simigaon, Beding, Na, across the Teshi Lapcha pass, to Thami, Gokyo village and lake, across the Cho La to Dingboche and Pangboche, east to Chhukung, across the Amphu Laptsa pass to BC. They left Kathmandu on 28 October and finally arrived at BC on 20 November.

  They decided against making a C2 because it was too windy to pitch a camp at the bottom of the SE Ridge; they made their summit push from C1. All five members and four Sherpas left C1 for the top at 3:00 am on November 25. Glynn had to turn back at 6250m because he was too warmly dressed and he was much too hot. He went down to BC that day and Jim Williams went with him.

  The remaining members Bennett, Leonard and O'Mara, plus their four Sherpas, continued to the summit and arrived there between 12:20 and 12:45 pm. They returned to C1 at 4:00 to 5:30 pm and stayed there that night. They were back in BC the next day.

  They left BC on the 27th and trekked to Lukla via the Amphu Laptsa, Chhukung and Pangboche. They flew to Kathmandu on 3 November.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Sherpa, 56, Shomare (20 min northeast of Pangboche), Khumjung-7, no 8000ers
    Nawang Pasang, 16/8/80, Beding, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X3
    Nima Tashi, 4/4/60, Pangboche, Everest X8
    Phurba Namgyal, 7/2/86, Beding, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X1


expid: BARU09309
peakid: BARU
year: 2009
route1: SE Rdge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Otto Sluiter
sponsor: Baruntse Experience 2009 Expedition
ascent1: 100
approach: See route details
bcdate: 2009-10-16
smtdate: 2009-10-22
smttime: 1327
termdate: 2009-10-25
campsites: BC(16/10,5450m),C1(20/10,6100m),C2(21/10,6400m),Smt(22/10)
accidents: Sluiter suffered from high altitude sickness
agency: Pike Expeditions & Treks
routememo:
  Approach: Tumlingtar, Khanbari, Chichila, Num, Sedua, Tashigaon, Khongma, Makalu BC, French Camp, East Col BC.

  Vicedomini, Ngima and Renjen left C2 at 3 am. They reached summit at 1:27 pm, stayed on summit about an hour, then descended to C1 where they reached at 5 pm; next day to BC. 

  Sluiter suffered from altitude sickness and left BC on 16 Oct with Beukers for Tumlingtar. Both returned to Kathmandu on 21 and left for Lukla on 23rd. Sluiter, Beukers and Vicedomini returned to Kathmandu from Lukla on 30 Oct. The team is supposed to leave Nepal on 12 November.

  Sherpas:
    Ngima Sherpa, 6/9/68 (22/5/2035), Jantarkhani-9, Okhaldhunga
    Rinjin Bhote, 26/6/67 (12/3/2034), Chepuwa-2


expid: BARU09310
peakid: BARU
year: 2009
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Vicente Castro
sponsor: Spanish-Canadian Baruntse
ascent1: 102
countries: Canada
approach: Tumlingtar->Khare->Mera Peak->Khome Dingma
bcdate: 2009-10-21
smtdate: 2009-10-26
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2009-10-29
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak on 20 Oct (both Canadians)
campsites: BC(21/10,5300m),C1(24/10,6100m),C2(25/10,6400m),Smt(26/10)
achievment: 1st Quebecois on the summit
agency: Mountain Tribes Trekking
routememo:
  Beaudoin, Castro, Giasson and Dawa left C2 at 2 am on 26 Oct. They reached summit at 9:30 am and stayed on summit for about 20 minutes. The team descended to C2 between 1 and 2 pm, slept there. Next day the team went down to BC. The summit day weather was very good, but C2 was windy all the time. There were other 4 climbers who summited after Castro team on the same day. 

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Tenzing, 21/3/86 (8/12/2042), Thamo, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X2


expid: BARU09311
peakid: BARU
year: 2009
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Edmund Graf
sponsor: Expedition Nepal 2009 to Baruntse
ascent1: 103
approach: See route details
bcdate: 2009-10-21
smtdate: 2009-10-26
smttime: 1145
termdate: 2009-10-28
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East on 16 Oct (all members)
campsites: BC(21/10,5500m),C1(24/10,6100m),C2(25/10,6450m),Smt(26/10)
agency: Nepal Trans Himalayan Explorer
routememo:
  Approach: Lukla, Namche, Kalapattar, Lobuche, Lobuche Peak, Lobuche, Dingboche, Amphu Laptsa BC, other side Lobuche BC.

  Gau, Graf, Graf-Juergen, Ang Pasang and Chumba left C2 at 4:20 am. Beckmann had to turn around from 7034m due to cold, cough and breathing problem. Gau, Graf, Graf-Juergen, Ang Pasang and Chumba reached summit at 11:45, stayed on summit for half an hour and descended to BC at 7 pm. The summit day weather was clear sky, sunny, windy and cold. There were 5 Swiss climbers who summited on the same day.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Pasang, 28/9/79 (12/6/2036), Waku-4, Solu, Lhotse 15/5/04
    Changba Nurbu, 1964, Tate, Chaurikharka-7, Solu, Everest X7, Cho Oyu 26/9/04, 
      Dhaulagiri I 1990


expid: BARU09312
peakid: BARU
year: 2009
route1: SE Rdge
nation: France
leaders: Lionel Chatain
sponsor: Baruntse 2009 Expedition
ascent1: 104-105
approach: Phakding->Namche->Kalapattar->Island Peak BC->Panch Pokhari
bcdate: 2009-10-25
smtdate: 2009-10-28
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2009-11-01
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak on about 21 Oct (all 3 members and Sherpas)
campsites: BC(25/10,5450m),C1(27/10,6160m),Smt(28-29/10)
agency: Glacier Safari Treks
routememo:
  Hernandez and Lavie started from C1 at 1 am on 28 Oct. They reached the summit at 12 noon, stayed on summit about 30 minutes, then back to C1. 

  On 29 Oct Chatain, Cazzaro, Marty, Bienvenu, Ritemba and Phunaru started from C1 at 1 am. They summited at 10 am, stayed on summit for 45 minutes, then back to C1. Next day all went down to BC.

  Lambert went up to 6160m on 28 Oct; he was tired and did not for the summit. 

  Couture went up to 6500m on 29 Oct; he was tired and did not go farther up. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 7 November and left on 9 November.

  Sherpas:
    Ritemba Sherpa, 8/5/70 (25/01/2027), Yaphu-9, Makalu, Everest 21/5/09
    Phunaru Sherpa, 18/11/72 (03/08/2029), Yaphu-9, Makalu, no 8000ers
    
    Both Sherpas are brothers


expid: BARU09313
peakid: BARU
year: 2009
route1: W Col-SE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Franco Demarchi
sponsor: Swiss Life Baruntse 2009
bcdate: 2009-11-26
smtdate: 2009-11-30
termdate: 2009-12-01
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to planning to film only
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East on 12 Nov
campsites: BC(26/11,5470m),C1(29/11,5800m),xxx(30/11,5900m)
agency: Nature Unlimited Treks
routememo:
  Approach: Phakding, Namche, Thami, Lungdhen, Gokyo, Dragnag, Lobuche BC, Dingboche, Amphu Laptsa BC, Amphu Laptsa south BC.

  Dimarchi, Zanini, Opreni and Mini climbed up to 5900m and descended to BC on 30 November. The team returned to Kathmandu on 9 Dec and left on 12 Dec.

  The team planned only to film up to 6300m without attempting to summit.


expid: CHOB09301
peakid: CHOB
year: 2009
route1: SW Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Markus Staffler
sponsor: Italian Chobutse Expedition
bcdate: 2009-11-16
smtdate: 2009-11-19
termdate: 2009-11-20
termnote: Abandoned at 5500m due to lack of climbing partner (who was sick)
campsites: BC(16/11,4500m),C1(19/11,5500m),xxx(19/11,5500m)
agency: Monviso Treks
routememo:
  BC at snow-covered grass north side of Tsho Rolpa 
  C1 at bottom of SW Face
  High point at C1.

  The two-man team arrived at BC on 16 November and rested there that day. On the 17th, snow began to fall, and they retreated to the village of Na, two hours west of BC, which was at the west end of a sizeable lake called Tsho Rolpa. Twenty centimeters of snow fell that day at BC. They returned to the camp on the 18th.

  Gruener had some kind of nose and throat problems, so he never went above BC.

  That left Staffler to climb alone. Their plan had been to climb their 6685m mountain in what they called pure alpine style from one high camp. Staffler placed this camp at 5500m with one Sherpa, Lhakpa Nuru, to carry the load there. They pitched C1 on 19 November, then Lhakpa Nuru descended immediately to BC while Staffler slept there alone.

  Staffler decided on the 19th to abandon the climb. Why? "Because I was alone." A Sherpa going to the summit with him violated the true "alpine style" he believed in.

  Staffler returned to BC on the 20th, and they all left BC the same day.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Nuru, 22/11/80, Thami, Everest X5


expid: CHOY09312
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Fernando Fernandez
sponsor: Granada Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Kodari->Nyalam
bcdate: 2009-09-06
smtdate: 2009-09-23
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2009-09-30
campsites: BC(06/09,5000m),ABC(10/09,5600m),C1(14/09,6400m),C2(16/09,7200m),Smt(23/09)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  On 23 Sept summit team left C2 at midnight. Weather was calm but cloudy and the climb was straightforward. They reached the summit at noon; however, it was very cloudy and they only got a glimpse of Everest.

  They spent about half an hour on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at 4 pm. The following day they descended to ABC.

  Ortiz reached C2 on 16 Sept and 26 Sept. He did not go on the initial summit push with the other team members, as he was not feeling well at BC. However, on 24 Sept he tried to push for the summit, as he was feeling better. He reached C1 on 25 Sept and C2 on 26 Sept. He stayed one night at C2, but he was too tired to carry on and the weather was bad. On 27 Sept he descended to ABC.


expid: CHOY09313
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Jose Crespo
sponsor: Olvega 8000 Cho Oyu Expedition 2009
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2009-09-10
smtdate: 2009-10-01
termdate: 2009-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to exhaustion
campsites: BC(10/09,4900m),C1(13/09,5700m),C1(19/09,6300m),C2(21/09,7100m),C3(30/09,7600m),xxx(01/10,7800m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/mid-camp on 12 Sept.

  Dominguez started his summit bid on 1 Oct from C3 at around 00:30 hours/NST. When he reached about 7800m (Yellow Band), he was tired and turned around to C3 and gave up his summit bid.

  High points for other members: 
    Leader Crespo to C1 
    Garcia to C1
    Perez to C2 

  Leader Crespo returned to Kathmandu on 02 Oct. Rest of the members will be on 7 Oct and all will leave on 13 Oct.


expid: CHOY09314
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Pavel Matousek
sponsor: Cho Oyu 2009 Lite Expedition
approach: Kodari->Nyalam
smtdate: 2009-10-01
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2009-10-06
othersmts: Attempted Tukuche (no summit) (TUKU-093-01)
agency: Monterosa Treks
campsites:
  ABC(25/09,5700m),C1(27/09,6400m),Upper-midcamp(28/09,6700m),C2(29/09,7100m),C3(30/09,7450m),Smt(01/10)

routememo:
  BC at middle camp on 24 Sept at 5300m.

  Hofmannova and Milfait started from C3 at 3:30 am NST on 1 Oct. They reached summit at 12 noon stayed on summit for about 30 minutes. They had good view of Everest, Lhotse, etc. Descended to C3 where they arrived at around 6 pm. They slept at C3. Next day to upper midcamp to sleep and the following day to ABC. 

  Belik started from C3 at 4 am, reached summit at 1 pm, stayed on summit for about 30 minutes, descended to C3 slept there. 

  Matousek and Novakova started from C3 at 4:30 am, reached summit at 5:45 pm, stayed on summit for about 15 minutes, back to C3 between 9-9:30 pm. Matousek and Novakova were the last ones to leave summit on that day. The weather on summit day was very good. There was a little snowfall between 2 pm to 4 pm. After that it was clear sky.

  Kocman had problem with his boot and his high point was the rockband on 1 Oct. He tried again on 2 Oct with another boot borrowed from other member. He left C3 at 3 am on 2 Oct, but returned to C3 after one and half hours. His toes started paining.


expid: CHOY09315
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Simone La Terra
sponsor: La Terra on Cho Oyu
approach: Kodari->Nyalam
bcdate: 2009-09-06
smtdate: 2009-09-23
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2009-09-30
campsites: BC(06/09,5000m),ABC(10/09,5600m),C1(12/09,6400m),C2(15/09,7100m),Smt(23/09)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  On 23 Sept La Terra left C2 at midnight. He took 2 hours to C3, where he stopped in a Jagged Globe tent to warm up his toes. He left C3 for the summit at 5 am. His climb was straightforward, however the snow was quite deep. He reached the summit at 12:30 pm. It was cloudy on the summit, no views. He was on the summit with Fernando Fernandez's team. He spent about half an hour on the summit and descended to C2, where he arrived at 5 pm. The following day he went to ABC.


expid: CHOY09316
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Michael Horst
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Cho Oyu Expedition 2009
countries: Australia, Austria, Switzerland
approach: Kodari->Nyalam
bcdate: 2009-09-09
smtdate: 2009-09-30
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2009-10-03
campsites: BC(09/09,5000m),ABC(11/09,5600m),C1(16/09,6400m),C2(20/09,7100m),C3(29/09,7400m),Smt(30/09)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  Summit 30/09 by Burns, Folkerts, Girard, Grieder, Horst, Smith, Winkler, Phura Kancha, Lhakpa Rita, Tshering Dorje and Kami Rita at 9:30 am.

  Summit team slept on oxygen and left C3 at 2:30 am (NST). Weather was clear and calm. Not many people on the route. Straightforward climb. Good views from the summit: they saw Everest. They spent about 45 minutes on the summit, descended to C3 (1 pm), stopped for a rest and carried on to C2, where they arrived between 3:30 pm and 4:45 pm. On 1 Oct they descended to ABC.

  Lionel and Teresa Lavenue reached ABC on 11 Sept; as Teresa is suffering from asthma and was not feeling well, they left ABC on 12 Sept and went back home.

  Garret Madison never left Kathmandu as he was unable to obtain a visa for Tibet.

  Oxygen taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members. No oxygen for Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Phura Kancha, Thami, 04/10/2033, Everest 2006,07,08,09, Cho Oyu 2006
    Lhakpa Rita, Thami (lives in Seattle), 09/09/66, Everest X12
    Tshering Dorje, Kharikhola, 20/7/70, Everest X11
    Kami Rita (brother of Lhakpa Rita), Thami, 17/01/70, Everest X13


expid: CHOY09317
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: Poland
leaders: Artur Hajzer
sponsor: Polish Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 2009-09-25
smtdate: 2009-10-02
termdate: 2009-10-12
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to strong wind
campsites: BC(25/09,4800m),ABC(27/09,5700m),C1(01/10,6100m),C2(02/10,7100m),xxx(02/10,7100m)
agency: Mountain Tribes Trekking
routememo:
  Hajzer and Lhakpa Nuru occupied C2 on 2 October and next day descended to ABC to rest.

  Snow began to fall on the 6th and "high" wind began blowing from the night of the 6th/7th, keeping them in ABC longer than planned. On the 9th they returned to C1, and on 10 October they tried to go on up to C2. But strong wind hit them and drove them down from 6900m back to ABC.

  On the 10th, Hajzer decided to abandon the climb. Two days later, they left for Kathmandu.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa, 26/9/72, Yilajung, Everest X2


expid: CHOY09318
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: Poland
leaders: Robert Rozmus
sponsor: Annapurna Club Expedition to Cho Oyu
bcdate: 2009-09-14
smtdate: 2009-09-26
termdate: 2009-10-12
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(14/09,4800m),ABC(17/09,5300m),C1(21/09,6400m),C2(26/09,7100m),xxx(26/09,7100m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  On 27 September the team descended to ABC to rest, and on 1 October they returned to C1. On the 2nd while they were climbing to C2, at 6000m Iminski said he was not feeling well, but Rozmus thinks he had lost motivation. In any case, he descended to ABC while the other two members returned to C2. Iminski left the expedition on the 6th for Kathmandu and on the 8th flew home.

  Meanwhile, on Cho Oyu on the 3rd, snow was falling constantly and visibility was poor. On the 4th they descended to ABC to wait for better conditions, and finally on the 9th Federak and Rozmus returned to C1. But there was no tent; the old one had been destroyed by the wind. They tried to pitch a new one, but the wind defeated their efforts, and they went back to ABC.  Their climb was finished.


expid: CHOY09319
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: Portugal
leaders: Angelo Sousa
sponsor: Portuguese Cho Oyu Expeditin 2009
approach: Kodari->Nyalam
bcdate: 2009-09-06
smtdate: 2009-09-24
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2009-09-30
campsites: BC(06/09,5000m),ABC(10/09,5700m),C1(14/09,6400m),C2(16/09,7200m),C3(23/09,7600m),Smt(24/09)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  On 24 Sept Sousa and Tshering left C3 at 00:54 am. Weather calm and clear, a little bit windy. Climb straightforward. They reached the summit at 9:30 am. Good views of Everest. They spent about 14 minutes on the summit and descended to C3, where they rested for a short while and then went on to C2, where they arrived at 4 pm. The following day, 25 Sept, they descended to ABC. They left BC on 30 Sept.

  Sherpa:
    Tshering Tashi, Khumjung, Khumbu, 7/12/1985, Everest 16/5/2004, 21/5/2006


expid: CHOY09320
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: Russia
leaders: Oxana Morneva
sponsor: Arun Treks International Expedition to Cho Oyu
countries: Nepal
approach: Kodari->Nyalam
bcdate: 2009-09-10
smtdate: 2009-09-24
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2009-09-30
campsites: BC(10/09,5000m),ABC(12/09,5700m),C1(15/09,6400m),C2(28/09,7200m),Smt(24-25/09)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  24 Sept summit reached by Kislitsyn and Ngima Nuru Sherpa. They left C2 at 9:00 pm (NST) on 23 Sept. The weather was calm and clear, straightforward climb. Good view from summit: they saw Everest. They descended to C2, where they arrived at 12:30 pm.

  25 Sept summit team left C2 at 9 pm on 24 Sept. Weather was cloudy and it was snowing. Trail was Ok on the way up. They reached the summit at noon; however, they had no views, but they saw the pile of prayer flags on the summit.

  The way down was harder as the snow was quite deep and heavy. They descended to C2 and arrived at 5 pm. On 26 Sept they descended to ABC. 

  The whole team left BC together on 30 Sept.

  They had only two Sherpas with them: Pasang and Ngima Nuru.


expid: CHOY09321
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Mark Sedon
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Cho Oyu Expedition 2009
countries: Australia, Ireland, Mexico
bcdate: 2009-09-20
smtdate: 2009-10-04
termdate: 2009-10-13
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to wind too strong
campsites: BC(20/09,4800m),ABC(23/09,5600m),C1(02/10,6500m),C1.5(03/10,6800m),xxx(04/10,7000m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  The team established a camp between the sites of normal C1 and C2 because of the distance between them, and they called this camp C1.5. It was first occupied at 6850m on 3 Oct. On the 4th from this camp, the expedition's high point of 7000m was reached by all members except Burke and by Sherpas Dawa Jangbu, Lhakpa, Lhakpa Dorje, Nawang Chhangba and Sange Dorje in their acclimatization climb. They returned to ABC to rest on the 5th.

  Then fierce winds start to blow. On the 10th, Sherpas tried to re-pitch the tents at C1, but 65 km/hr winds prevented putting up any tents, and they descended to ABC the same day.

  The next day, the 11th, the attempt to climb Cho Oyu was abandoned because of the very strong winds.

  Burke did not participate in the climb because she was not well. She had recovered from pneumonia only three weeks before coming to Nepal, and at ABC she had very great difficulty breathing normally. She went 20m above ABC and had to be given oxygen and carried down to BC. She left BC on 26 September.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Jangbu/Da Jangbu, 22/4/73, Pangboche, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X1
    Lhakpa, 29/11/66, Taksindu-5, Solu, no 8000ers
    Lhakpa Dorje, 16/11/61, Sanam, Gudel, Solu, Cho Oyu X3, Everest X4, Kangch X1,
      Lhotse X1, Makalu X3
    Nawang Chhangba, 13/9/70, Khumjung, Khumbu, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X1
    Sange Dorje, 14/4/78, Khumjung, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X4


expid: CHOY09322
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: Norway
leaders: Haavard Gjerdset
sponsor: Cho Oyu Expedition 2009
countries: Denmark
bcdate: 2009-09-10
smtdate: 2009-09-29
smttime: 0645
termdate: 2009-10-03
campsites: BC(10/09,5000m),ABC(12/09,5700m),C1(16/09,6400m),C2(21/09,7100m),C3(28/09,7900m),Smt(29/09)
agency: Peaks of Nepal
routememo:
  Summit team left C3 at midnight. Weather clear and calm. Straightforward climb. Good views from the summit: they saw Everest. Team spent half an hour on the summit. Gjerdset, Rosenstrom, Saeboe, Sandbakk descended to ABC, where they arrived at 4 pm. Rest of the summit team descended to C2, where they arrived at 2 pm. On 30 Sept all members to ABC.

  Havard Buset and his wife Kari Buset reached 6000m (just below the killer slope) on 16 Sept. Neither of them was feeling well (Havard had a bad cough and Kari had stomach problems). They left ABC on 20 Sept.

  Falck-Pedersen only reached interim camp at 5300m on 11 Sept. He had a bad cough and was worried that it could be pulmonary edema. He stayed one night at interim camp and felt so bad that a truck had to take him down to BC. He waited there for another three days, but his condition did not improve. He left BC 14 Sept.

  Hexeberg reached C2 on 21 Sept on the acclimatization trip. She spent the night and went back to ABC. On the summit push she reached C1, but got bad asthma, so she descended to ABC and abandoned the expedition.

  Myhre reached 6600m (just below the ice cliff) on 21 Sept. He had the felling that he was not strong enough for the mountain and descended to ABC on the same day. He left ABC on 25 Sept.

  Thorn reached C2 on 21 Sept on the acclimatization trip. He spent the night and went back to ABC. On the summit push he reached C1, but felt weak and descended to ABC and abandoned expedition.

  Tommeraas reached C1 at 16 Sept. She spent a night there. She felt not strong enough to carry on climbing and abandoned the expedition. She stayed at ABC for the rest of the expedition.

  Oxygen:
    All members C3 to summit to C3
    Sherpas no oxygen

  Sherpas:
    Jangbu Sherpa, Namche, 23/08/1973, 
      Brother of Lhakpa Sonam Sherpa of the Namche Museum
    Ang (Kami) Chhiring Sherpa, Pangboche, 1962, Everest X9, Cho Oyu X6
    Nuru Wangchu, Pangboche, 18/8/1977, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X2
    Gyaluk Sherpa, Patle, Okhaldhunga, 1975, Everest X3
    Kancha Nuru, Pangboche, 5/12/87, Everest 2009 


expid: CHOY09323
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Thorsten Schueller
sponsor: Schueller Expedition to Cho Oyu
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2009-09-07
smtdate: 2009-09-26
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2009-09-30
campsites: BC(07/09,4800m),ABC(11/09,5700m),C1(15/09,6400m),C2(18/09,7040m),C3(25/09,7500m),Smt(26/09)
agency: Cultural Treks
routememo:
  BC at CBC/midcamp on 10 Sept at 5200m.

  Lippacher and Schueller left C3 at 4:30 am NST. On 26 Sept they reached summit at 11:30 am, stayed on summit about 45 minutes, had view of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse. On the summit they saw some prayer flags. While descending they met 2 Sherpas and one client of Amical near the summit. Lippacher descended to C3 at 2 pm and slept there and next day to ABC. Schueller descended to C2 at 3 pm slept there. Next day together to ABC. 

  Both returned to Kathmandu on 1 Oct and will leave on 4 Oct.


expid: CHOY09324
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: Argentina
leaders: Adrian Gauna
sponsor: Apus Expedition to Cho Oyu
countries: Peru
approach: Kodari->Nyalam
bcdate: 2009-09-16
smtdate: 2009-10-01
termdate: 2009-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 7875m due to bad weather, lots of snow
campsites: BC(16/09,4800m),ABC(17/09,5600m),C1(20/09,6400m),C2(21/09,7200m),xxx(01/10,7875m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Eguiluz and Gauna left C2 at midnight of 30 Sept. There was lots of snow when they reached at 7875m at about 7 am; visibility became very poor. Then both of the climbers descended to ABC where they reached at 7 pm. 

  Eguiluz and Gauna returned to Kathmandu on 6 Oct and will leave on 12 Oct.


expid: CHOY09325
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Alessandro Rossi
sponsor: An Italian on Cho Oyu
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2009-09-10
smtdate: 2009-09-24
smttime: 0624
termdate: 2009-09-30
campsites: BC(10/09,4900m),ABC(15/09,5700m),C1(18/09,6400m),C2(23/09,7000m),Smt(24/09)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  BC at CBC/midcamp on 14 Sept at 5300m.

  Rossi and Dawa left C3 at 10 pm NST of 23 Sept. They reached summit at 6:24 am on 24 Sept, stayed on summit for about 30 minutes. Weather was good, blue sky, bit windy. Had good view of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse. Both descended to C2 at 10 am, had rest for 2 hours, then descended to ABC where they reached at 6 pm. Before Rossi and Dawa there were 5-6 climbers on the summit, Chinese or Japanese with other 4-5 climbers. While descending Rossi saw about 10 climbers coming up. 

  Rossi returned to Kathmandu on 1 Oct and will leave on 4 Oct.

  Sherpa:
    Dawa Chhiri/Da Chhiri, 19/2/78 (8/11/2034), Phurte, Khumbu, Makalu X1,
      Everest X2, Lhotse X2, Cho Oyu X1


expid: CHOY09326
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: Sweden
leaders: Johanna Oehrn
sponsor: Two Girls 2 8000ers Expedition
approach: Shishapangma BC->Tingri
bcdate: 2009-10-06
smtdate: 2009-10-09
termdate: 2009-10-13
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to high wind
othersmts: Xixabangma Central Summit
campsites: ABC(06/10,5700m),C1(09/10,6400m),xxx(09/10,6400m)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Oehrn and Pompe climbed up to C1 on 9 Oct, slept there. They could not continue their climb due to strong wind and deep snow conditions. They then descended to ABC on 10 Oct. 

  Both returned to Kathmandu on 14 Oct. Pompe will leave on 18 Oct, Oehrn on 21 Oct.


expid: CHOY09327
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Mario Merelli
sponsor: Italian Cho Oyu Expedition
countries: Spain
bcdate: 2009-09-10
smtdate: 2009-09-29
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2009-10-02
campsites: BC(10/09,5000m),ABC(12/09,5700m),C1(22/09,6400m),C2(23/09,7180m),Smt(29/09)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Only two members made a bid for the summit. Boscato and Toniolo got to C2 on 23 September when it was established, but never went higher; they were too tired to carry on. Giralt joined the expedition in order to be with Merelli, whom she planned to marry in November; she went up to C1 on the 16th and afterwards stayed in ABC.

  The summit party consisted of Merelli and Zaffaroni only. They left ABC on 26 September for C1, and on the 27th to C2. At midnight of 28/29 September (NST), they left C2. Merelli was on the summit at 9:00 am and Zaffaroni at 10:30 am. They descended to C2, where Merelli arrived at 2:30 pm and Zaffaroni at 4:00 pm. They went down to C1 on the 30th and to ABC on the 1st of October.


expid: CHOY09328
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: Hungary
leaders: Eva Baranyi
sponsor: Cho Oyu Expedition 2009
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2009-09-03
smtdate: 2009-09-24
smttime: 1315
termdate: 2009-09-30
campsites: BC(03/09,4800m),ABC(06/09,5700m),C1(10/09,6400m),C2(17/09,7100m),C3(23/09,7500m),Smt(24/09)
achievment: Probably 1st Hungarian women
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Baranyi and Lestak left C3 at about 3 am NST on 24 Sept. Lestak's hands and feet started getting very cold at about 7800m; she turned around to C3. Baranyi reached summit at about 1:15 pm NST, stayed on summit for about 15 minutes and descended to C3 where she reached between 4-5 pm. Janosi, Baranyi and Lestak slept at C3. Next day all three members slept at C2. On 26 Sept Baranyi descended to ABC. Lestak and Janosi slept at C1 and next day to ABC. Baranyi was the last one to reach summit on that day. There were no clouds on the summit, but on the Everest side there were clouds and she could not see Everest from the Cho Oyu summit. There was lot of people on summit before her on that day. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 1 Oct and will leave on 5 Oct.


expid: CHOY09329
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: Iran
leaders: Mohammad Reza Naderi
sponsor: First Iranian Cho Oyu Ski Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2009-09-08
smtdate: 2009-09-26
termdate: 2009-09-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to eye problem
campsites: bC(08/09,4900m),ABC(11/09),C1(24/09),C2(28/09),xxx(26/09,7300m)
achievment: Perhaps 1st Iranian to ski from near C3 to C1
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC at midcamp on 10 Sept
  High point near C3.

  Naderi tried to go to C3 on 19 Sept and on 26 Sept he reached near C3. On 26 Sept, he got problem in his eyes, skied down to C2 and continued to C2. 

  Naderi returned to Kathmandu on 30 Sept on 1 October and left for Iran on 2 Oct.


expid: CHOY09330
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Gabriel-Marc Castetron
sponsor: Cho Oyu Expedition 2009
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2009-09-10
smtdate: 2009-09-30
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2009-10-05
campsites: BC(10/09,4600m),ABC(12/09,5600m),C1(18/09,6400m),C2(22/09,7200m),C3(29/09,7500m),Smt(30/09)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/midcamp on 11 Oct at 5200m.

  Castetron and Karma started from C3 at 1 am NST on 30 September, reached summit at 8:30 am, stayed on summit for 15 minutes, then descended to C2 at 2 pm, slept there. Next day to C1 and continued to ABC. Castetron had a good view of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Makalu. 

  Sherpa:
    Karma Gyalzen, 26/9/76, Surke, Chaurikharka-4, Solu, Everest X1


expid: CHOY09331
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Arnold Coster
sponsor: SummitClimb Cho Oyu Expedition 2009
countries: Australia, Canada, Germany, Netherlands, UK
bcdate: 2009-09-07
smtdate: 2009-09-27
smttime: 0820
termdate: 2009-09-30
campsites: BC(07/09,5000m),ABC(10/09,5750m),C1(16/09,6400m),C2(20/09,7100m),C3(26/09,7500m),Smt(27/09)
accidents: Christian Sterr stomach trouble
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  Two members set out from C3 for the summit on 27 September at 1:30 am (Chinese time) with the team's four Sherpas and one Tibetan, but one member dropped out on the ay up and a Sherpa descended with him. Those who left for the top were Coster, Dixon, Fable, Kiphart, Marsh, Mazur, Patch, [Plantenberg], Schulze, Vickers, Sherpas Jangbu, Da Jangbu, Lhakpa Gelu and Thile Nurbu, plus Asu (Chinese). Schulze got to 7700m at 8:00 am, but was climbing too slowly for any chance to reach the summit; he turned around and went down to C2 with Lhakpa Gelu.

  All the remaining climbers summited: Kiphart was the first successful member at 8:20 am, and Vickers brought up the rear at 10:20 am. Coster and Mazur descended to C1 that day, while all the others stopped to C3. All were in ABC on the 28th.

  Oxygen: Dixon, Vickers and all the Sherpas used none. All the others in the summit party used it in and from C3, to their high points, to and in C3.

  Non-summiting members:

  Johnston got to C2; lost motivation and left the expedition on 24 September.

  Schulze reached only 7700m with the summit party, as stated above.

  Wilde reached C1, lost motivation and left on 22 September.

  Sherpas:
    Small (Da) Jangbu Sherpa, 22/2/81, Kharikhola, Solu, Everest X3
    Jangbu Sherpa, 24/5/67 (10/2/2024), Patle, Okhaldhunga, Cho Oyu X3, 
      Everest X4, Lhotse X1
    Lhakpa Gelu, 13/4/77, Thumduk, Beni-3, Solu, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X4, Lhotse X1
    Thile Nurbu, 26/8/74 (13/2/2031), Chaplung, Chaurikharka-3, Solu, Everest X4, 
      Lhotse X1

  Chinese Hired:
    Asu Chang [Rongqin Su], climbing instructor in Chengdu, no 8000ers


expid: CHOY09332
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Javier Camacho
sponsor: Aragon-Navarra Cho Oyu Expedition 2009
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2009-09-10
smtdate: 2009-09-25
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2009-09-30
campsites: BC(10/09,4900m),ABC(13/09,5700m),C1(18/09,6300m),C2(19/09,7100m),C3(24/09,7600m),Smt(25/09)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/midcamp on 12 Sept at 5200m.

  Camacho left C3 at 4 am NST, reached summit at 12 noon, stayed on summit for 20 minutes, descended to C3 at 4 pm, slept there. He had to wait for two hours at the Yellow Band while descending to C3 because two climbers and a Sherpa were very slow and they didn't know how to use the rope. On 26th Sept Camacho descended to ABC. The summit day weather was cloudy and windy. Camacho was with Spanish Javier Zabalo on summit. On summit day there were about 8 climbers on summit, among them there was one woman with two Sherpas.

  Arruabarrena climbed up to C1 on 18 Sept. He had headache and did not try to go farther. Camacho saw a Coke can on the summit. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 2 Oct.


expid: CHOY09333
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: Austria
leaders: Andreas Kehrer
sponsor: Kehrer Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 2009-09-07
smtdate: 2009-09-29
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2009-10-02
campsites: BC(07/09,4900m),ABC(11/09,5700m),C1(16/09,6400m),C2(21/09,7150m),C3(28/09,7500m),Smt(29/09)
agency: High Country Trekking
routememo:
  Kehrer left C3 for the summit at midnight 28/29 Sept (NST) and was on the top at 10:30 am of the 29th. Mario Merelli was there at the same time. He saw and Everest and Lhotse.

  Kehrer descended to C3 extremely exhausted and spent the night there. On the 30th he went down to ABC, and on 2 October he left ABC, went through BC and on to Zhangmu the same day.

  He had no Sherpas with him, but a Tibetan, whose name he doesn't know, carried a load for him to C1 only.


expid: CHOY09334
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Cleo Weidlich
sponsor: Cleo Weidlich Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 2009-09-12
smtdate: 2009-09-24
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2009-09-28
campsites: BC(12/09,5000m),ABC(13/09,5500m),C1(15/09,6400m),C2(23/09,7000m),Smt(24/09)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Weidlich's summit push began on 22 September, when she left ABC for C1. She went to C2 on the 23rd, but only to rest and have some tea before going for the top at 10:45 pm (NST) with Mingma Sherpa. She reached the summit at 6:30 am on the 24th and saw Everest and Makalu; she didn't know what peaks she was looking at until Victor Saunders, who was there at the same time, identified them for her.

  Weidlich returned to C2 at 9:30 am, rested and continued down to C1, where she arrived at 3:00 pm, and where she spent that night. She was in ABC on the 25th and left it on the 28th to go to Xixabangma BC. She reached 7000m on Xixabangma, found the route above there too difficult, and left the mountain on 8 October.

  On Cho Oyu she had used oxygen for only 10 minutes while she helped a member of a British expedition led by Tim Calder get back on his feet until a teammate joined him. Mingma used none.

  Sherpa:
    Mingma Sherpa, 21/2/68, Yilajung, Khumbu, Everest X8


expid: CHOY09335
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Will Cross
sponsor: Will Cross Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 2009-09-10
smtdate: 2009-09-27
smttime: 0927
termdate: 2009-10-11
othersmts: Attempted Xixabangma (ABC only)
campsites: BC(10/09,5000m),ABC(12/09,5500m),C1(15/09,6400m),C2(24/09,7000m),Smt(27/09)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Cross said he left C2 for the top on 26 September at 10:00 pm (NST) and was on the summit at 9:27 am of the 27th. He saw Everest and Makalu. He returned to C2 at 3:00 pm for the night. He was back in ABC on the 28th.

  From Cho Oyu, he went to Xixabangma and pitched his ABC on 2 October. He rested there and then on the 5th, while he was headed for the ridge, he met the experienced Australian climber Andrew Lock, who was coming off the mountain. Lock told Cross about deep, unstable snow and avalanching higher up, and Cross decided to make no attempt to climb Xixabangma.


  Cleo Weidlich - 11 October 2009

  Cleo Weidlich, who was on Cho Oyu at the same time as Cross, on 11 October volunteered her thoughts about his climbing. She said they had arrived together at BC, and on their way to ABC, he slowed down. They were together in C1, where "he was helpless," had no strength and had to be helped. He stayed in C1 three nights and four days, then went back to ABC on the 18th. He was very weak. On the 21st he went up to C1 "with Tibetan boys to help him" carry his load. He climbed to the site for C2 and retreated to ABC on the 23rd. She concluded, "He should never be on a mountain without a Sherpa."


expid: CHOY09336
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: Slovakia
leaders: Peter Sperka
sponsor: Himalayan Club Vysoke Tatry Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 2009-09-17
smtdate: 2009-09-26
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2009-10-01
campsites: BC(17/09),ABC(18/09,5700m),C1(21/09,6400m),C2(23/09,7200m),C3(25/09,7500m),Smt(26/09)
agency: Nepal Trans Himalayan Explorer
routememo:
  Dobes, Dzugan and Sperka left C3 on 26 September at 5:00 am (Chinese time) for the top. It took them one and a half hours to cross the summit plateau because 30 cm of fresh snow had fallen during the previous night. So it was 3:00 pm when they finally reached the summit, from where saw a panorama of mountains including Everest. They returned to C3 at 6:00 pm. On the 27th they descended to C1 and on the 28th to ABC.

  The weather was extremely cold, and Dobes and Dzugan each got five frostbitten fingers when they took off their gloves to take pictures, but their fingers will heal.

  Poliak reached C2, had difficulty breathing, and descended to BC.


expid: CHOY09337
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Victor Saunders
sponsor: Challenge 8000 Cho Oyu Expedition
countries: Brazil, Guatemala, Malta
bcdate: 2009-09-04
smtdate: 2009-09-24
smttime: 0650
termdate: 2009-09-28
campsites: BC(04/09),ABC(09/09,5700m),C1(14/09,6400m),C2(18/09,7150m),Smt(24/09)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  The entire expedition of nine members and three Sherpas left C2 for the top at 11:00 pm (NST) on 23 September. Da Silva turned around at 6:00 am on the 24th because of an eye problem and went back to C2 with Kalzang Dorje Sherpa at 10:00 am. All the others carried on to the summit, which they reached between 6:50 am and 7:20 am and from where they saw Everest.

  Attard, De Zorzi, Saunders, Pasang Dawa and Dorje Gyalzen descended to C1, which they reached at 5:00 pm after having spent three hours in C2 resting. The other summiters spent that night in C2. Everyone was in ABC on the 25th. 

  Oxygen was used by all members and Sherpas from (but not in) C2 to their high points to C2.

  Fixed rope: 800m from C1 to C2.

  Sherpas:
    Dorje Gyalzen, 16/7/82, Pangboche, Everest X4, Manaslu X1
    Kalzang Dorje, 23/7/81, Pangboche, Everest X2
    Pasang Dawa, 18/1/77, Pangboche, Everest X11, Lhotse X1, Cho Oyu X4


expid: CHOY09338
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: Canada
leaders: Gordon Skirrow
sponsor: Skirrows Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2009-09-03
smtdate: 2009-09-24
smttime: 0815
termdate: 2009-09-30
campsites: BC(03/09,4800m),ABC(06/09,5700m),C1(11/09,6400m),C2(22/09,7200m),C3(23/09,7500m),Smt(24/09)
achievment: Perhaps 1st Canadian brothers on summit
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC 5th Sept at 5369m.

  Skirrow brothers and Temba left C3 at midnight of 23 September, reached summit at 8:15 am of 24 September, stayed on summit for 30 minutes, then descended to C3 where they reached at 3 pm NST. Next day descended to C1, slept there and the following day to ABC. Summit day weather was good, but little windy. Ahead of the Skirrow team there were many other climbers on the summit, but very few climbers behind them. 

  Sherpas:
    Temba Sherpa, 24/11/72 (09/08/2029), Makalu-5, Everest in 17/5/2006 north side, 
      Ama Dablam in 2004[?] & 2005


expid: CHOY09339
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Maria Jose Cardell
sponsor: Spanish Pair on Cho Oyu
bcdate: 2009-09-07
smtdate: 2009-09-27
termnote: Abandoned at 7835m due to fatigue & ill health
campsites: BC(07/09,5000m),ABC(10/09,5700m),C1(13/09,6400m),C2(17/09,7200m),C3(26/09,7500m),xxx(27/09,7835m)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Cardell was sick with a sore throat and fever from 18 to 23 September. On the 24th she and Padial set out for their summit push from ABC to C1 and on the 25th they went up to C2. But Padial was very tired and was slow getting to C2; he decided to stay in C2. On the 26th, Cardell went alone to C3, carrying the heavy load of gear needed to establish the camp.

  On 27 September, Cardell left C3 for the top at 1:30 am (Chinese time). At 4:00 am she had gotten to 7835m above C3. Now she was getting very cold, not feeling well, and not happy about being alone, so she turned around. 

  She stopped in C1 at 11:30 am to rest. Padial was here; they packed up and together descended all the way to ABC, where they arrived at 6:00 pm. They were in BC on the 28th.


expid: CHOY09340
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Kenji Kondo
sponsor: Adventure Guides Cho Oyu Expedition 2009
bcdate: 2009-09-16
smtdate: 2009-10-01
smttime: 1015
termdate: 2009-10-04
campsites: BC(16/09,5000m),ABC(19/09,5700m),C1(24/09,6400m),C2(29/09,7121m),C3(30/09,7600m),Smt(01/10)
accidents: Nakamura slight frostbite
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Six members (Hanaoka, Kondo, Kurimoto, Masaki, Nakamura and Ogiwara) and five Sherpas (Da Dendi, Dirga Sing Tamang, Lama Babu, Lhakpa Chhiring, and Phurba Chhiri) set out for the top from C3 on 1 October at 1:00 am (Chinese time). Dirga Sing Tamang was very tired when he got to 8000m and went no higher.

  All the others reached the summit at 12:30 pm (10:15 NST). Kurimoto and Kondo descended to C2, where they arrived at 7:00 pm. All the other summiters stopped in C3 at 6:00 to 7:00 pm. On the 2nd, two Sherpas stopped their descent at C1 to bring down the loads of supplies while all others went to ABC.

  Non-summiting members:

  Shinmen reached 6900m on 29 September; she was not strong, so she was very slow; she abandoned her attempt to go higher.

  Sugimoto was BC manager and never went above BC.

  Oxygen was used by Kurimoto and Ogiwara from C1 to summit to C1; all other members in and from C2 to summit to C1; Sherpas used none.

  Sherpas:
    Da Dendi, aka Da Tendi, 28/5/81 (15/2/2038), Saframa, Lokhim-2, Solu, 
      Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2
    Dirga Sing Tamang, 26/9/67, Kerung-5, Solu, Cho Oyu X1
    Lama Babu, 24/6/69 (10/2/2026), Saframa, Lokhim-2, Solu
    Lhakpa Chhiring, 7/4/64 (25/12/2020), Kurima, Lokhim-9, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1
    Phurba Chhiri, 4/10/68, Kurima, Lokhim-9, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X2, etc


expid: CHOY09341
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Sergio Ruedas
sponsor: Independent Climber on Cho Oyu
bcdate: 2009-09-07
smtdate: 2009-10-01
smttime: 1045
termdate: 2009-10-04
campsites: BC(07/09,5000m),ABC(09/09,5700m),C1(13/09,6400m),C2(17/09,7100m),C3(30/09,7500m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Ruedas and Tshering Wangchu Sherpa left C3 on 1 Oct at 3:30 am (Chinese time), were on summit at 1:00 pm (10:45 NST) and back in C3 at 5:00 pm. Next day back in ABC.

  Sherpa:
    Tshering Wangchu, 16/3/83, Thamo, Khumbu, Everest X3, Lhotse X1


expid: CHOY09342
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Juan Agullo
sponsor: Dos8000.es to Cho Oyu
bcdate: 2009-09-07
smtdate: 2009-09-26
smttime: 1015
termdate: 2009-10-04
campsites: BC(07/09,5000m),ABC(09/09,5700m),C1(11/09,6400m),C2(16/09,7100m),C3(22/09,7500m),Smt(26/09,01/10)
accidents: Marcos frostbite
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  The team sent two parties to the top. The first, Anton and Tari, left C3 on 26 September at 4:00 am (Chinese time) and reached the summit at 12:30 pm (10:15 NST). They saw Everest very briefly amidst the clouds. They returned to C3 at 6:00 pm that day and were back in ABC the next day.

  The next summit party, Agullo, Fernandez, Marcos and Trasobares, went for the top on 1 October. Fernandez and Marcos left C3 at 4:00 am, while Agullo and Trasobares left three hours later. Trasobares got to 8000m at 5:00 pm, then didn't feel safe with the weather deteriorating and snow beginning to fall, so he turned around and descended to C2, where he arrived at 8:00 pm.

  The other three went to the top. Fernandez and Marcos were on the summit at 2:00 pm (11:45 NST) and 3:00 pm (12:45 NST), respectively; both returned to C2 at 8:00 pm. Agullo got there at 7:00 pm (4:45 NST) and stayed in C3 at 11:00 pm for the night. All four members in this party were back in BC on the 2nd.

  On his summit day, Marcos developed frostbite on three toes of his right foot, but didn't realize it until two days later. They will heal.


expid: CHOY09343
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Dominik Mueller
sponsor: Amical Alpin Cho Oyu Expedition 2009
countries: Austria, Italy
bcdate: 2009-09-10
smtdate: 2009-09-26
smttime: 1050
termdate: 2009-09-30
campsites: BC(10/09,5700m),C1(14/09,6400m),C2(17/09,7100m),C3(20/09,7400m),Smt(26/09)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  A party of seven members plus one Sherpa and one Tibetan left C3 for the top at 4:10 am (NST) on 26 September, but three members dropped out on the way. Kasmanhuber got to 7500m, just 100m above the camp, at 4:40 am, when he developed a bad cough and descended to C2. Keck got to the same high point and also had a bad cough; he went down to C1. Schneider stopped at about 7500-7550m at 5:10 am, then returned to C3 because his fingers were getting very cold.

  All the others in the party continued to the top. They were Herndl, Kaiser, Mueller, Rohrmann, Pasang Nuru Sherpa and Tsering Tashi, a Tibetan. They reached the summit at varying times: Pasang Nuru and Tsering Tashi were the first at 10:50 am, next was Mueller, and last was Rohrmann at 4:00 pm. They saw Everest and Lhotse for a few minutes when clouds parted. All stayed that night in C3, arrived there between 2:00 and 6:15 pm.

  Other non-summiting members:

  Hofer reached about 7100m on 17 September, then lost motivation to continue.

  Liebold went to C1 with the others on 14 September, had stomach problem and bad cough, and left the expedition on the 16th.

  Nadler got to C2 on 25 September, had no strength left, and went back to BC.

  Margaret Pfeiffer while descending from C1 to BC on 15 September, fell at 6000m, hurt a knee, got to BC and remained there.

  Norbert Pfeiffer got to C3 but no higher; not strong enough to continue.

  Hired:
    Pasang Nuru Sherpa, 17/5/74, Bupsa, Jubing-5, Solu, Everest X3, Makalu X1
    Tsering Tashi, Tibetan, Tibetan Mountaineering School, Cho Oyu & Everest


expid: CHOY09344
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Tim Calder
sponsor: Jagged Globe Cho Oyu Expedition 2009
bcdate: 2009-08-31
smtdate: 2009-09-24
smttime: 0450
termdate: 2009-10-27
campsites: BC(31/08,5000m),ABC(04/09,5600m),C1(11/09,6400m),C2(16/09,7100m),C3(21/09,7600m),Smt(24/09)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  Some climbers made their summit bids directly from C2 and others from C3. Those from C2 left camp at 10:00 pm on the 23rd of September; they were Bailey, Brown, Calder, Chapman, the Finlayson brothers, and eight Sherpas: Ang Dawa, Lila Bahadur Basnet, Mingma Tsiri, Pem Chhiri, Pemba Chhiring, Pemba Tharke, Thundu Sherpa and Tshering Pemba. Calder abandoned his attempt at C3 because of a faulty oxygen system while the rest went to the summit.

  Bond, Branford, Crooke, Darby, Groves, Murrell, Purdy and Scott set out for the summit from C3 at 11:15 pm of the 23rd. Branford got to the rock band (about 7700m), was very tired and gave up. The others went to the top.

  The summit was reached on 24 September at various times. The first was Bailey at 4:50 am; the last was Murrell at 7:00 am.

  Bond summited despite serious breathing problems: he suffered from trachiacast, which meant that his throat filled with phlegm, but he could cough it up, and his breathing rate was irregular.

  Other non-summiting members:

  Smith went to ABC on 4 September and slept there, but he was not acclimatizing well and left the expedition on the 6th.

  Worrall slept in C1 on 11 September, was not acclimatizing well and during the night suffered from irregular breathing. He went down to ABC. He tried to go to C1 on the 15th, but felt worse, and he left the expedition on the 19th.

  Oxygen was used by all members who left in summit bids, from C2 or C3, whichever they started from, to the summit to C3. The Sherpas used none.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Dawa, 22/7/81, Kharikhola, Everest X1
    Lila Bahadur Basnet, 31/3/83, Lamabagar-3, Dolakha, Everest X3
    Mingma Tsiri, aka Mingma Tshering, 19/7/70, Beding, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X14, etc
    Pema Chhiri, 16/12/80, Chankhu, Dolakha, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X3
    Pema Chhiring, 17/12/83, Beding, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X7, Lhotse X1, Manaslu X1 
    Pemb Tharke, Lamabagar, Dolakha, 19/5/61, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X1
    Thundu Sherpa, 18/2/78, Beding, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X5, Manaslu X1
    Tshering Pemba, 22/11/85, Beding, Everest X2, Manaslu X1


expid: CHOY09345
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Philippe Genin
sponsor: Piano Cho Oyu Expedition 2009
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2009-09-10
smtdate: 2009-09-30
termdate: 2009-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to cold toes
campsites: BC(10/09,4600m),ABC(12/09,5600m),C1(18/09,6400m),C2(22/09,7200m),C3(29/09,7500m),xxx(30/09,7600m)
achievment: Played piano at C2 on 28 Oct
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/midcamp on 11 September at 5200m.

  Genin left C3 at 1:30 am of 30 September for his summit bid. He was supposed to play piono on the summit. When he reached 7600m, he realized that his right toes started getting cold. Then he turned around to C3 where he arrived at about 8 am; he continued to descend to C2, slept there. Next day to ABC. 

  Genin returned to Kathmandu on 6 Oct and to leave on 11 Oct.


expid: CHOY09346
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: Belgium
leaders: Bart Menu
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2009-09-10
smtdate: 2009-10-01
termdate: 2009-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to bad weather, strong wind and snowfall and lack of time
campsites: BC(10/09,4600m),ABC(12/09,5600m),C1(18/09,6400m),C2(25/09,7000m),C3(01/10,7500m),xxx(01/10,7700m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/midcamp on 11 September at 5600m.

  Artinopoulos and Segers left C3 at 00:30 hours NST on 1 Oct for their summit bid. When they reached 7700m at about 2 am, wind started picking up and also started snowfall. They turned around to C3 slept there. Next day 2 Oct they descended to ABC. The team of two climbers returned to Kathmandu on 6 Oct and to leave on 11 Oct along with the leader because the Chinese border authority found in his luggage objectionable matter [and thus was denied entry to Tibet]. Remaining two members chose no leader between them.


expid: CHOY09347
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Cesare Cesa Bianchi
sponsor: Mountain Kingdom Expedition to Cho Oyu
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2009-09-05
smtdate: 2009-09-24
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2009-10-04
campsites: BC(05/09,4900m),ABC(09/09,5730m),C1(16/09,6430m),C2(22/09,7115m),C3(23/09,7510m),Smt(24/09)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Cesa Bianchi, Galliano, Guido Spinelli, Silvano Spinelli, Tshering Jangbu and Pasang Gyalzen left C3 at 1:30 am NST on 24 Sept for their summit bid. Galliano and Tshering reached summit at 9 am, stayed on summit for one and half hours, then descended to C2. Silvano Spinelli and Pasang topped at 10 am, stayed on summit for 30 minutes and descended to C3 where they reached around 2 pm. Cesa Bianchi and Guido Spinelli reached summit at 12:30 pm, stayed on summit for about 5 minutes and descended to C3 at about 4 pm. Next day all to BC.

  Guzzetti climbed up to about 6750m between C1 to C2. She had fever, running nose and throat problem before leaving for high camp from BC. 

  Spinelli brothers returned to Kathmandu on 30 September and left on 1 Oct. Rest of the members and leader returned on 5 Oct and will leave on 9 October.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Gyalzen, 30/9/64 (15/6/2021), Walung, Makalu-9. Cho Oyu X2, Dhaulagiri X1
    Tshering Jangbu, 1/8/77, Lokhim-9, Solu, Everest X2, Lhotse X2

  Galliano made a snowboard descent on 24 Sept back to C3; the next day he snowboarded down to the lower camps.


