# exped

expid: KANG03103
peakid: KANG
year: 2003
route1: SW Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Norbert Joos
sponsor: Independent team
ascent1: 64th
bcdate: 2003-04-13
smtdate: 2003-05-20
smttime: 1630
termdate: 2003-05-23
campsites: BC(13/04,5400m),Dep(6200m),C2(25/04,7000m),C3(09/05,7500m),Smt(20/05)
accidents: Reichen frostbitten nose; Joos left 7 May bad asthma
agency: Himalayan High Country Treks
routememo:
  BC at 5400m same as Christian Kuntner
  Deposit only at 6200m only 1 tent not sleeping
  C2 at 7000m same as Kuntner
  C3 at 7500m same as Kuntner

  10 May Reichen down from C3 because strong wind. 17 ABC to C2; 16 May to C3. 3:00 am up for summit Reichen with Italians and Andrew Lock. 20 May good weather but cold; up by line to right of normal route (perhaps new route) and on top 4:30 pm; on top with Mondinelli 20-30 minutes: reached C3 8:00 pm Reichan arrived C3, 2 hours before Mondinelli. Merroli again problem with cloudy weather and very tired: returned to BC 3:00-4:00 pm; snow falling from C2.


expid: KANG03104
peakid: KANG
year: 2003
route1: NE-N Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Ralf Dujmovits
sponsor: International Kangchenjunga Expedition
countries: Austria, Finland, Japan
bcdate: 2003-04-13
smtdate: 2003-05-08
termdate: 2003-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(13/04,5060m),C1(17/04,5800m),C2(27/04,6600m),C3(08/05,7200m),xxx(08/05,7200m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Pangpema
  C1 at beginning of small plateau
  C2 at 2nd plateau
  C3 on NW Ridge.

  At 6300m while fixing ice face on 18 April huge fall of ice serac fell on another serac to which head of fixed supply of ice axes, rope, helmets, etc. and turned supply sack over, burying supplies. One member had to go to Jannu BC and borrow from that expedition 1 axe and 2 pair crampons (site of this serac falls is marked). At C3 left gear for C4 at 7900m and back to BC at 9 May for rest. Stayed in BC till 19 May because of very strong wind. 20 May up to C1, started snowing and stayed there; 22nd to C2. 23rd weather report predicted heavy snowfall so down to BC and decided to quit climbing. Prediction was long term strong wind. All 6 members always climbed together.


expid: KANG03105
peakid: KANG
year: 2003
route1: SW Face
nation: Australia
leaders: Andrew Lock
sponsor: Andrew & Christine Kangchenjuna Expedition 2003
countries: USA
bcdate: 2003-04-17
smtdate: 2003-05-20
termdate: 2003-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to lack of strength
campsites: BC(17/04,5500m),C1(23/04,6200m),C1.5(28/04,6300m),C2(30/04,7100m),C3(10/05,7400m),xxx(20/05,7600m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  High point at snow just below romp leading to Col.

  Had C1 at normal 6200m but moved it to 6300m on 28 April to make it closer to C2. Lock went to C2 but Boskoff didn't have heart for climbing; route not difficult but not motivated because "straightforward and would just been hiking up someone's else a trail." She decided on 10 May to go home and returned KTM 15 May; leaves Nepal 14 May.

  Lock - 25 May

  28 April C1.5 at 6300m wanting to push higher tahn C1; was on face at edge of icefall leading to great shelf. C2 at only 6900m on face below Great Shelf on 30 April (Boskoff did not go to this camp). C3 at high end of Shelf. Tricky getting to C3 because of serac barrier just before its site. 20 May climbed to 7600m + alone because C3 last camp and climb from there to top and back very far and all started too late (2:30 am instead of 10:00 pm of 19th as Lock wanted) and clouds developed during night and in distance could see them threatening bad weather and white out would be major problem. These three factors made Lock feel not right to go up, especially as he could not climb so fast as Kuntner, Mondinelli and Kobe Reichen since Lock not so strong as them. Lock down to BC on 20th May after turning back at 4:30 am, to C3 at 5:00 am, BC at 2:30 pm. While descending from C3 white-out and had problem finding route and total white-out below C1 but fixed ropes enabled him to find BC.

  Climb not very challenging at start but above Great Shelf is definitely a challenge. Lock would like to try this route again, but would establish a C4 and climb with stronger team.

  Source of above information: Boskoff & Lock


expid: KANG03106
peakid: KANG
year: 2003
route1: SW Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Christian Kuntner
sponsor: Italian Kangchenjunga Expedition
ascent1: 63rd
countries: Spain
bcdate: 2003-04-07
smtdate: 2003-05-20
smttime: 1620
termdate: 2003-05-27
campsites: BC(07/04,5500m),C1(16/04,6250m),C2(24/04,6775m),C3(09/05,7550m),Smt(20/05)
accidents: Mondinelli frostbite; Pauner 5 fingers frostbite (very serious) and 1 toe and nose
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Pangpema
  CI at beginning of small plateau
  C2 at 2nd plateau
  C3 on North Ridge
  High point at C3.

  23 Apr slept at 6400m but no camp there; 24th to C2 to sleep and 25 Apr to BC. Waited for winds to die. 8th May to C2 from BC; 9th May to C3; 10th from C3 to BC because of wind. 17th to C2; 18th May to C2; in C3 one day and 20th 3:00 am all 4 members left C3 for top and at 4:20 pm on top. 20 minutes on top by 3 members and Carlos 1 hour taking pictures (on top now down standing in snow and 2 yellow oxygen bottles (upright and lying in snow). 3 members slept in C3 while Carlos slept in couloir at 7100m without any biv preparation. Carlos had lost route and on 20th fell 150m little above C3 but not hurt and reached empty C3 9:00 am 21st; down again weather bad, slept at about 7400m. 22nd arrived BC with only 1 ice axe (lost other axe during fall). Others already in BC. Pauner descended by new route.


expid: KGRI03101
peakid: KGRI
year: 2003
route1: Bottom of SW Face-E Col
nation: Japan
leaders: Masayoshi Fuji
sponsor: Japanese Alpine Club Khangri Shar Senior Expedition 2003
approach: Lobuje to Gorakshep, Klappatan's west side
bcdate: 2003-04-29
smtdate: 2003-05-08
termdate: 2003-05-11
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to impossible route
campsites: BC(29/04,5300m),C1(02/05,5850m),xxx(08/05,6300m)
accidents: No accident or frostbite
achievment: 1st attempt of mountain
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at south side of lake just east of Khangri Shar Glacier
  C1 at south end of South Ridge
  High point at SE Col on Glacier.

  Did not attempt South Ridge because too steep and overhanging rock and did not need to go up to avoid avalanching off of Pumori as had feared. When they looked at ridge, decided not possible; so decided to climb to East Col and then in ridge moved close to west side of glacier at bottom of rock face on glacier but big crevasse at 6300m across glacier. More big crevasses on Pumori side. Was only passage across by unsafe snow bridges. Stopped attempt at 6300m on glacier below SE Face and south of East Col. Had hoped to put C2 on East Col at 6480m. 

  Sherpas were technically very good. Now no wish to try other approach to mountain because other routes would be difficult and members are "serious people." Fixed 700m to C1 and above C1 1250m (quite steep glacier above C1). Mountain is for younger people climbing in alpine style, possibly via same route, possibly up rock face of 75 degrees angle. 

  Two members (Igo & Itoh) had slight cases of altitude sickness, left BC on 30 April, returned to BC 6 May by which time it was too late for them to join climb, so they never went above BC although team had flown to Lukla on 19 April and took ten days to arrive at BC via an acclimatization trek, but this trek was not long enough and high enough for this age group. Two other members had serious stomach problems: Nakagawa never reached BC, Tanaka got to BC but left on 30 April and did not return, so team had only 4 climbing members.


expid: LANR03101
peakid: LANR
year: 2003
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Stewart Boyce
sponsor: R.A.F. Langtang Ri Expedition
approach: Syabrubesi->Langtang Khola->Karpokar->BC
bcdate: 2003-04-09
smtdate: 2003-04-19
termdate: 2003-04-22
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to progress too slow
campsites: BC(09/04,5100m),C1(12/04,5740m),C2(13/04,6140m),xxx(19/04,6500m)
accidents: Parry cerebral edema so down to BC on 18 Apr; Moore not acclimatizing well
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  BC just to left of Langtang Glacier
  C1 at Tilman's Col
  C2 at notch.

  BC 2 days further than expected site (further north) just off Langtang Glacier; 2 days more required to move up badly broken glacier covered by deep snow; "porters really earned their money." 13-17th April spent laod carrying to establish C3 properly. 17th Harris went to 6300m fixing rope. 18th Boyce up to 6400m fixing more rope. 19th Boyce up to 6500m fixing rope and to look for site for C3 at 6700m but would have taken another week to get there because of too much snow all along route with insecure conditions underfoot at 50-55 degree slope and Boyce was only member (with 2 Sherpas) up so high. Above C2 route confined to ridge all the way up and fixed 500m rope here. Boyce wouldn't go back with a team of five members only; ten would be best; members too scattered along route alone; another team may have serious problem getting porters to go there next time. Snowed every day for all 10 days at mountain (and every night getting back to BC) and filled in tracks daily.

  Moore had to go back on approach march because not acclimatizing; went back along Langtang Khola to Kangjin Kharka Gompa and arrived BC 9 days late so never got to C1. Davies had stomach trouble.


expid: LHOT03101
peakid: LHOT
year: 2003
route1: W Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Ken Noguchi
sponsor: Noguchi Asia South Col Cleaning Expedition 2003
countries: S Korea
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2003-04-08
smtdate: 2003-05-16
termdate: 2003-05-20
termnote: Members only went to 7300m for garbage collecting
campsites: BC(08/04,5300m),C1(12/04,5800m),C2(15/04,6400m),C3(16/05,7300m),xxx(16/05,7300m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  The expedition's objective was to collect garbage along the route up to South Col. The expedition had collected garbage about 2.4 tons. Hiraga, Noguchi and Taniguchi went up to C3. Some (4 Sherpas) went up to South Col. Last Sherpa group were on South Col on May 9. 

  Lee had to leave BC on May 9 and left country probably on May 21; Yoshimura left BC on May 6, left Nepal on 10th; Takahata left BC on May 13th. All three left BC due to personal reasons.

  There were 2 more Sherpas with this expedition, Pemba Dorje and Dawa Chhiri. Since they planned to summit Everest for Pemba Dorje's speed climb they were officially included on the permit for Everest held by Belgians Robert Hugh and Rudy Van Snick.

  Sherpas:
    Nima Wangchu Sherpa, (33), Khumjung-3, Solukhumbu
    Dawa Tashi Sherpa, (31), Gaurishankar-1, Charikot, Dolakha
    Thukten Sherpa, (42), Namche-7, Solukhumbu
    Pasang Namgel Sherpa, (30), Khumjung-1, Solukhumbu
    Nima Gyalzen, (24), Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha, Koshi
    Tshering Phinjo, (29), Khumjung-1, Solukhumbu
    Tshering Thundu, (2031/6/18), Khumjung-2, Solukhumbu
    Ngawang Karsang, (35), Khumjung-2, Solukhumbu
    Kami Dandi, (32), Chaurikharka-8, Lukla, Solukhumbu
    Sonam Tashi, (30), Khumjung-2, Solukhumbu
    Mingma Nuru
    Pasang Tendi, (20), Yaphu-9, Koshi
    Pemba Dorje, 29/4/77, Beding, Everest X1, Lhotse X1
    Dawa Chhiri, 8/11/2034 (25 yrs), Phurte, Makalu X1

  Spring 2003 Everest climb by Pemba Dorje Sherpa

  Pemba Dorje and his climbing Sherpa, Dawa Chhiri/Da Chhiri Sherpa, were actually amongst the large number of Sherpas employed by the leader of the Japanese clean-up expedition, Ken Noguchi, who had a permit for Lhotse.  However, since Pemba Dorje wanted to set a new speed record for climbing Everest, his trekking company included these two Sherpas on the permit for Everest belonging to a two-man Belgium team, led by Robert Huygh, purely to authorized them to summit Everest. But they slept in Noguchi tents, ate Noguchi food, were paid by Naguchi; Pemba and he brought down 15 empty oxygen bottles from the South Col, as part of Noguchi's clean-up efforts. (The trekking agency, Asian Trekking, gave Pemba Dorje an allowance and some oxygen bottles, according to Bikal Adhikari of their staff).

  A page of details of Pemba's Everest climb as written by or for him for a press conference are attached with this memo.

  Pemba Dorje said on 25 June 2003 to E. Hawley that he went up and down the Everest-Lhotse route five or six times as "practice" for his speed-climb. He said that in his speed ascent, he had no one with him from base camp to C4. He left C4 at 11:30 pm on 22 May and was on the summit at 5:45 am on the 23rd, 12 hours and 45 minutes after having left base camp.

  He was joined there by Dawa Chhiri 25 minutes later. Dawa Chhiri head carried oxygen bottles for Pemba Dorje and himself to C4 and had arrived  there on 21 May, the day before Pemba Dorje got there for his speed record. They set out for the summit together on the night of the 22nd, but Dawa Chhiri was unable to keep up with Pemba Dorje's fast pace and dropped behind at the South Summit.

  Pemba Dorje stayed on the summit 1 hour and 45 minutes. He was waiting for Dawa Chhiri to join him to take his picture there and for climbers from any other expedition to arrive and stand next to him in the picture. (It shows him with Patrick Berhault, member of Jean Michel Asselin's French team from the South Col, who arrived at 6:30 am, the time given by both Pemba Dorje and Asselin separately. Berhault wrote his name in Pemba Dorje's notes.) Pemba Dorje put pictures of King Gyanendra and Queen Komal on the summit.

  Pemba Dorje started using artificial oxygen when he left C4 for the summit. He used it on his climb to the top, took off his mast for the 1 hour, 45 minutes he was on the summit, resumed using it in his descent from the top till he reached C2. Dawa Chhiri used it sleeping at C4, climbing to the summit and down to C2, where he stopped to sleep the night of the 23rd (he did not use it sleeping there).

  Pemba Dorje and Dawa Chhiri left the summit together at 7:00 am on the 23rd. Pemba Dorje descended all the way to base camp that day. He arrived at base camp at 2:00 pm, having been delayed by having twisted his ankle while coming down through the Icefall at only 200m above camp. His boot had gotten stuck in a ladder; he sat down, massaged his ankle and radioed on his walkie-talkie for help from base camp. Six or seven Sherpas answered his appeal for help (one was Pasang Kitar from Miura's team, one was Pasang Tenzi from the Jagged Globe US, UK, etc. team, another was Tashi with the Nepalese army); after 40 minutes he resumed his descent to base camp.

  He had planned to accomplish his entire climb in exactly 20 hours, but he had stopped for two hours at C4 in his descent to pack up some of Noguchi's gear, had rested at C2 for 20 minutes and again at C1 for ten minutes, and spent an extra 40 minutes in the Icefall. He calculates it had actually taken him total of 20 hours, 55 minutes to do the entire round-trip from base camp to summit to base camp.

  He said his new ambition now is to make an historic double traverse of Everest in 2004, climbing up via the southeast ridge to the summit, down via the North Face-North Col route to ABC, back up again via the same route to the summit and down the SE Ridge-South Col route to base camp. But he has no sponsor yet for this project.


  Press Conference in KTM, 2059/12/15 from Pemba Dorje Sherpa -  25 June 2003

  1. We left for Everest Base camp on 2059/12/16
  2. We reached in BC on 5 April 2003.
  3. On 12 April 2003 Mr. Pemba Dorje and Dawa Chhiri went to C1 and C2 and 
     returned to the base camp at the same day.
  4. After 5 days Pemba along with 15 Sherpas went to the Camp 1 and C2. 
     And all Sherpa spent for nights in C2 and after that descended to the
     base camp and took rest for 7 days. Again we went to C1 along with 12
     kg of load and returned to the base camp on that day.
  5. On 22 April 2003, Pemba along with three Sherpa went from the C2 to the
     rope 1900m to the camp 4, then returned to the basecamp on 24 April 2003,
     and then I (Pemba) took a rest until May 22 in the base camp.

  About Personal summit

  Speed climb:

  1. Started from the BC in May 22, 2003 at 5:00 pm.
  2. He reached in the Camp I at 6:00 pm.
  3. Then camp 2 6:45 pm and rested 29 minutes rest.
  4. At camp 3 at 9:10 pm.
     C4 at 11:10 pm and rest there for 20 minutes - from C4 he took 6:15.
     hours to reach on the top.

  Note: Mr. Pemba Dorji met Dawa Chhiri (his climbing Sherpa) at 11:00 pm at South col.
      
  After I met Mr Dawa Chhiri, I used the oxygen from South Col.


expid: LHOT03102
peakid: LHOT
year: 2003
route1: W Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Mikel Alvarez
sponsor: Independent climber
approach: Cho Oyu->Ktm->Lukla->Namche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2003-05-12
smtdate: 2003-05-25
termdate: 2003-05-28
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to stomach disorder, vomitting (blood), could not drink and eat
othersmts: Attempted Cho Oyu (CHOY-031-09)
campsites: BC(12/05,5400m),C2(13/05,6450m),C3(18/05,7300m),C4(25/05,7700m),xxx(25/05,7700m)
accidents: Stomach disorder, vomitting
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Alvarez left Cho Oyu on 2-3 May.

  C2 was established wth two porters on May 13. May 26 got sick - exhausted went down to C2. Did not try again. 

  Pasaban and one Sherpa summited. Alvarez returned to KTM 30th will leave on June 1.


expid: LHOT03103
peakid: LHOT
year: 2003
route1: W Face
nation: India
leaders: Ashok Abbey (Indian team)
sponsor: Indo-Nepal Army Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2003
ascent1: 83rd
bcdate: 2003-04-01
smtdate: 2003-05-13
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2003-05-28
othersmts: Climbed Everest (EVER-031-04)
campsites: BC(01/04,5944m),C1(13/04,5947m),C2(17/04,6858m),C4(12/05,7772m),Smt(13/05)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  Summit party left C4 at 1:00 am 13 May, all 12 from start to top. On top 8:00 am, returned to C2 same day at 4:30-6:00 pm, brought down C4. Dangerous from rock falling down couloir. 

  Winds had destroyed tents at C3 4 May and had to be replaced. After summit success Surjeet Singh Thakur and Champa Youten left BC on 18th to run in Everest marathon. 

  Oxygen used by all summiters from C3 to top to C4.

  Sherpa summiters: 
    Pemba Rinzi/Rinji, Kharikhola, 28 yrs old, Everest X4                
    Pasang Rinzi, Kharikhola, 29/1/76, Everest X1, Annapurna I


expid: LHOT03105
peakid: LHOT
year: 2003
route1: W Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Chung Sang-Mo
sponsor: Korean Lhotse Expedition
ascent1: 82nd,85th
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pheriche->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2003-04-15
smtdate: 2003-05-12
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2003-05-16
campsites: BC(15/04,5400m),C1(19/04,5800m),C2(21/04,6300m),C3(03/05,7200m),C4(08/05,7900m),Smt(12-13/05)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 5400m EvBC
  C1 at 5800m usual campsite
     (night spent by Choi Jin-Chul, Chung Sang-Mo, Kwon Sang-Hyok, Park Mu-Taek and Nuri) 
  C2 at 6300m usual campsite
     (night spent by Choi Jin-Chul, Chung Sang-Mo, Kwon Sang-Hyok, Park Mu-Taek and Nuri)
  C3 at 7200m usual campsite
     (night spent by Baek Joon-Ho, Han Byung-Yup, Park Mu-Taek and Nuri and Lhakpa)
  C4 at 7900m usual campsite
     (night spent by Kwon Sang-Hyok, Lee Bong-Yeul, Park Mu-Taek)

  First summit on 12 May 2003: Kwon Sang-Hyok, Lee Bong-Yeul, Park Mu-Taek and Nuri Chhiri Sherpa left C4 at 3:30 am, reached summit at 11:00 am and stayed there for about 45 minutes. Kwon Sang-Hyok and Nuri returned to C2 and reached there at 5:00 pm. Lee Bong-Yeul and Park Mu-Taek descended to C3 and reached there around 5:00 pm. Next days all three, Kwon Sang-Hyok, Lee Bong-Yeul and Park Mu-Taek returned to BC except for Nuri who remained at C2. 

  Second summit on 13 May 2003: Baek Joon-Ho and Han Byung-Yup left C4 at 1:30 am and reached the summit at 8:35 am. Stayed at the summit for approx 1 hour and returned to C2 at 6:30 pm. They descended to BC the following day. 

  On both the summit dates the weather remained normal.

  Rest of the climbers details:
  Cheong Myeong-Young, BC Manager - stayed at BC
  Choi Gwang-Deuk - C3
  Choi Jin-Chul, Chung Sang-Mo, Kang Kyoung-Mo and Kim Jong-Woo - C2
  Kang Ki-Seok - C4

  Fixed ropes along with the Japanese team from serac to C3.


expid: LHOT03104
peakid: LHOT
year: 2003
route1: W Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Surya Sen Thakuri (Nepalese team)
sponsor: Indo-Nepal Army Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2003
ascent1: 84th
bcdate: 2003-04-02
smtdate: 2003-05-13
smttime: 0815
termdate: 2003-05-28
othersmts: Climbed Everest (EVER-031-05)
campsites: BC(02/04),C1(07/04,5943m),C2(16/04,6492m),C3(18/04,7315m),C4(12/05,7750m),Smt(13/05)
accidents: Baniya appendicitis in late April in C2
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  C1 at 5943m at top of Icefall
  C2 at 6492m in W Cwm
  C3 at 7315m on Lhotse West Face
  C4 at 7750m on right side of yellow band just below couloir.

  Top reached on 8:15 am; had left C4 at 1:00 am; down to C2 that night. Team consisted of the 3 summiters only. Had planned to send 5 members to top in one party but one of them Baniya got appendicitis in C2 at end April and evacuated by helicopter to KTM and Raju Thapa was moved to administration work at BC or C2 (Padam Bahadur Tamang also shifted to administration work).
   
  Could send only one team up for top because of delay due of bad weather.

  All summiters (and only they) used oxygen sleeping in C4, to top and down to C4 only.

  Sherpa summiters:  
    Pemba Tshering, Khunde, 35, (2/8/2025), 1st 8000er
    Pemba Chhiring/Chirri, Beding, 19, (2/9/2000, Everest X1 (22/5/01)


expid: LHOT03106
peakid: LHOT
year: 2003
route1: W Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Fausto De Stefani
sponsor: Independent climber on Lhotse
bcdate: 2003-04-15
smtdate: 2003-05-15
termdate: 2003-05-17
termnote: Abandoned at 8350m due to very cold and windy; needed to be back in KTM
campsites: BC(15/04),Depot(6100m),C2(22/04,6700m),C3(11/05,7400m),C4(13/05,8000m),xxx(15/05,8350m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Depot at 6100m (not slept in, only deposit)
  C3 at 7400m (100m below other camps - space problem)
  C4 at 8000m bottom of Couloir
  xxx at 8350m in couloir.

  "Very bad situation" at C4: C3 too much competition, criminal competition" (juggling for advantage/campsite, first to go up). So many camps at C3, tents spread out 100m for 1st tents to highest tents. De Stefani reached 8350m in summit bid and then turned back because strong wind and very cold; got slight frostnip on several fingers. Now no time for another bid because of commitments in KTM concerning a school and hostel he is very much involved in. 

  De Stefani shared BC with De Leo but they climbed entirely separately and De Stefani left earlier.


expid: LHOT03108
peakid: LHOT
year: 2003
route1: W Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Christian Stangl
sponsor: Independent climber on Lhotse
bcdate: 2003-04-05
smtdate: 2003-05-12
termdate: 2003-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 8200m due to bad sore throat
campsites: BC(05/04,5300m),C2(12/04,6500m),C3(26/04,7300m),C4(11/05,7800m),xxx(12/05,8200m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  First attempt on May 12 from C4 reached upto 8200m. Stangl felt very cold without oxygen and had to retreat. He went down to C2 on 13th and BC on the 11th. His second attempt was on 18th. At C2 got very bad sore throat and went down to BC on 19th. He gave up this climb. Returned to KTM on 27th and will leave Nepal on 31st.


expid: LHOT03109
peakid: LHOT
year: 2003
route1: W Face
nation: Mexico
leaders: Mauricio Lopez
sponsor: Una Parajaenas Censo Lhotse Expedition 2003
ascent1: 87th
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pheriche->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2003-04-11
smtdate: 2003-05-20
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2003-05-25
campsites: BC(11/04,5400m),C1(17/04,6000m),C2(20/04,6400m),C3(22/04,7300m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(20/05)
achievment: 1st Mexican couple and 1st Mexican woman on Lhotse
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Fixed rope: from C3 to C4.

  Summit: left C4 at 2 am on 20 May and reached the summit at 11 am, spent 10 minutes on the summit (along with Adventure International's group).

  Return: Arrived at C4 at 3 pm; the following day to C2 at 4 pm, then base camp at 5 pm on 22nd.

  Weather: very strong wind and very cold (very numb fingers).

  Notes: Mrs Badia Bonilla is also the first Mexican woman to have scaled three 8000m peaks. They have plans to climb Makalu together next year - maybe spring.

  "Sherpas":
    Fura Dorje, Sotang, Everest X5
    Man Bahadur Gurung, Sitapati, Dhaulagiri I X1


expid: LHOT03110
peakid: LHOT
year: 2003
route1: W Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Sergio De Leo
sponsor: Independent climber on Lhotse
ascent1: 88th
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2003-04-12
smtdate: 2003-05-21
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2003-05-24
campsites: BC(12/04,5300m),C1(18/04,6000m),C2(19/04,6400m),C3(01/05,7200m),C4(20/05,7850m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  May 21: left C4 about 01:00 hours, summited about 09:30 hours, stayed about 15-20 minutes, reached C2 at 18:30 hours. Next day BC. Weather mild wind, poor visibility, summit was clear. 

  Returned to KTM on 26th, leave on 31st.

  Sherpas:
    Tshering Jangbu Sherpa (2034-4-17), Lokhim VDC-4, Rakshi Kharka, Solu,  
      1st 8000er, summited Bhrikuti in 2002 with Belgian group


expid: LHOT03111
peakid: LHOT
year: 2003
route1: W Face
nation: France
leaders: Daniel Gueorguievsky
sponsor: Lhotse Team with Everest Cinquante
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2003-04-07
smtdate: 2003-05-23
termdate: 2003-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 7150m due to exhaustion and high wind
campsites: BC(07/04,5300m),C1(11/04,6100m),C2(15/04,6470m),C3(23/04,7150m),xxx(23/05,7150m)
accidents: Frostbite (minor) of feet of Gueorguievsky
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Tripier Mandancin left BC on April 15 with the dead assistant cameraman (Arnaud Saulnier) by helicopter.

  Gueorguievsky skied from C2->C1 (Telemark skis) probably the first one to do that on Everest slope. Due to frostbite Gueorguievsky having started vascular pain and was flown out from BC to KTM on May 26. 

  Gueorgoievsky said the main objective of Lhotse expedition was to include cameraman for the Everest Expedition on the occasion of 50th Anniversary - and producing 4 films in 3 parts.


expid: LHOT03112
peakid: LHOT
year: 2003
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Damian Benegas
sponsor: Lhotse International Expedition 2003
ascent1: 89th
countries: Ecuador, Spain
bcdate: 2003-04-07
smtdate: 2003-05-26
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2003-05-29
campsites: BC(07/04),C1(11/04,6100m),C2(15/04,6350m),C3(24/04,7400m),C4(20/05,7800m),Smt(26/05)
agency: Mountain Madness
routememo:
  C1 at 6100m top of Icefall
  C2 at 6350m in Western Cwm
  C3 at 7400m on Lhotse West Face
  C4 at 7800m below couloir, above "the turtle."

  Summit bids: 21 May up to 8000m and down because windy and snowing from C4, down to BC same day. Returned to C4 25th and left for top, Pasaban 2:00 am and Mesias and Vallejo 2:30 am. Mesias turned back 150m below top because feet getting very cold (he returned to C4). Others on top: Pasaban and Nima Wandeki at 10:00 am, Vallejo 10:30 am, Juan got up at 11:00 am. Only people on top that day (turned left when emerged from couloir). All 5 down to C4 except Pasaban on down to C2 after waiting for others in C4, so reached C2 7:30 pm.

  30 oxygen bottles left by Indo-Nepal army expedition and Mesias at C4, when very little space left for other expedition's tents. Pasaban didn't enjoy last day's climb because can nothing in couloir (4 hours in couloir ascent, 2-1/2 hours in descent). 

  Damian Benegas did no climbing on Lhotse but was leader from BC. [Damian and Willie were climbing on Nuptse instead.]


expid: LHOT03113
peakid: LHOT
year: 2003
route1: W Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Yasunari Yamashita, Taro Tanigawa
sponsor: Tokyo University of Agriculture Alpine Club Everest
ascent1: 81st
bcdate: 2003-03-26
smtdate: 2003-05-10
smttime: 1020
termdate: 2003-05-26
othersmts: Climbed Everest (EVER-031-40)
campsites: BC(26/03,5300m),C1(30/04,6100m),C2(08/04,6500m),C3(18/04,7300m),C4(04/05,7800m),Smt(10/05)
agency: Cosmo Treks
primid: EVER03140
routememo:
  C1 at top of icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 on Lhotse West Face.

  Summit team left C4 at 6:00 am - 5 members and 3 Sherpas: Tanigawa on top at 10:20 am and stayed 1-1/2 hours on top; Hirose on top at 11:30 am and stayed 30 minutes; Nagakubo and Yoshida on top at 13:15 hours and 15 minutes; Nakamura on top at 13:30 hours and stayed 15 minutes; Phurba Tshiring on top at 13:40 hours; Lhakpa Dorje on top at 13:30 hours and Da Gyalzen on top at 12:30 hours. All 3 Sherpas stayed on top 15 minutes; all summiters returned to C4 that day. Summiters returned to BC 12 May.

  All used oxygen except Lhakpa Dorje. 

  Sherpa summiters: 
    Phurba/Tsheirng, Saframa, Lokhim, Solu, 1968, Lhotse X1, Everest X1,
      Cho Oyu X1, Manaslu
    Lhakpa Dorje, Kurima, Sotang, Solu, 27/3/66, Everest X2
    Dawa Gyalzen/Da Gyalzen, Lokhim-9, Solu, 35 years old, 1st 8000er 
      (ascent of Dhaulagiri I on 2/04/01 by Japanese (Ishii) claimed incorrectly)

  Lhakpa Dorje said: he used no oxygen but other Sherpas used it climbing from C4 to top to (but not in) C4; members used oxygen sleeping in C4, climbing top, down to C4 and in C4.


expid: LHOT03107
peakid: LHOT
year: 2003
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: John Rust
sponsor: Adventures International Lhotse 2003
ascent1: 86th
countries: UK
bcdate: 2003-04-08
smtdate: 2003-05-20
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2003-05-24
campsites: BC(08/04),C1(6100m),C2(6400m),C3(7400m),C4(7800m),Smt(20/05)
agency: High Country Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 at West Cwm
  C3 at West Face of Lhotse
  C4 at West Face below couloir.

  Durcanin and Barisas went on expedition with intention to get to South Col but each other reached only 6850m on Lhotse's West Face (Durcanin tried twice and Barisas tried 3 times to get to South Col). 

  Gariano, Rust and 2 Sherpas went to top on 25 May at 8:30 am; just ahead of these 2 Mexicans and their 2 Sherpas. Weather was clear with winds at 25-35 mph and temperature -20F - 30 F. "Safety Sherpa" was Ang Pasang, who climbed in support of Gariano and Rust to about 7620m to 7770m.

  Oxygen: "We all used oxygen above C4" and Gariano and Rust used it above C3 and Ang Pasang used it "occasionally."

  Sherpa summiters: 
    Pasang Nuru, 19/4/2029 (32 years old), Kharikhola, 1st 8000er
    Pemba Chhiri, 27/11/2040 (19 years old), Paiya, Jubing-7, 1st 8000er


  Email by John Rust to Jeevan Shrestha -  Wed 2nd July 2003

  I had three clients in to total with me 4 for the Lhotse climb. Scott Durcanin (US citizen), George Barisas (US citizen) and Lorenzo Gariano living in Britain). Scott and George intentions were for the South Col of Everest only. Scott made it on 2 rotations to upper altitude and occupied C2 climbing to 22,500 ft on the Lhotse Face as his high point, George made 3 rotations occupying C2 and making it to 22,500 ft on the Lhotse Face the third time as his high point, Lorenzo, myself, Sherpa Pasang Nuru 1973 YOB, and Sherpa Pemba made the summit of Lhotse on May 20th at about 8:30 am. Weather conditions were clear with winds 25-35 and temperatures approximately -20 to -30 degrees fahrenheit. We all used oxygen above C4 and additionally, Lorenzo and I used oxygen above C3. We also had a safety Sherpa Ang Pasang, whom made it to C4 (Lhotse) using oxygen occasionally and hiked above C4 to about 25,000 or 25,500 as support on summit day (this is an approximation as I do not know specifically how far he came in support as we turned him around before getting back to him). We also summited just in front of a Mexican husband and wife team and their two Sherpas.

  We shared with the Irish and Benegas but essentially we had 3 for our team, 7 between Scott Woolums and our Group and 13-14 for sharing between the Irish and ourselves.

  We left on 24 May 2003 at 9:30 am - our helicopter almost crashed when taking off (very close) and by 12:05 we were in Kathmandu after a hairy ride through many clouds on the plane from Lukla to Kathmandu - this part of the climb was scariest!!!


expid: MAKA03101
peakid: MAKA
year: 2003
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Samdrup
sponsor: China-Tibet Mt Makalu Expedition
ascent1: 77th
approach: Plane to Lukla, by helicopter to BC
bcdate: 2003-04-14
smtdate: 2003-05-14
smttime: 0915
termdate: 2003-05-21
campsites: BC(14/04,4700m),ABC(21/04,5700m),C1(23/04,6419m),C2(02/05,6800m),C3(11/05,7400m),Smt(14/05)
achievment: 1st successful Chinese expedition
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at 4700m site of Korean BC
  ABC at 5700m site of Korean BC.

  May 14: Gyalbu, Lodue, Pemba, Tashi, Ren Na and Tsering Dorje left C3 at 04:00 hours. Summit 09:15 hours, stayed about 25 minutes, back to C3 at 14:15 hours. Akebu went up to C2 on April 23 with Pemba, Ren Na and Tsering with four Sherpas. Akebu felt very bad cold particularly knees and went down to BC. Weather condition was very bad strong wind. The expedition use satellite phone to get weather report from Lhasa and also Lobsang made astrological method for weather forecast.

  The expedition plans to go for K2, maybe next year. The team returned to KTM on May 23 and will probably leave on 31st after a visit to Lumbini and Chitwan. They will attend the 50th Anniversary of the ascent to Everest in KTM. Sherpas did not go up beyond 7400m due to weather conditions.

  About 100m below C1, C2 ,C3 - to summit fixed rope 1200m.

  Sherpas:
    Ngawang Tenzing Sherpa (sirdar), 42, Phortse, Khumjung-9, Khumbu
    Ngima Tsheri Sherpa (31), Phortse, Khumjung
    Pasang Rinzi Sherpa
    Pemba Tshering Sherpa (23), Khumjung-2 [18/04/79]


expid: MANA03101
peakid: MANA
year: 2003
route1: NE Face
nation: Poland
leaders: Piotr Pustelnik
sponsor: Polish International Manaslu Expedition 2003
ascent1: 83rd
countries: Slovenia
approach: By helicopter to Samagaon
bcdate: 2003-04-09
smtdate: 2003-05-17
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2003-05-20
campsites: BC(09/04,4800m),C1(11/04,5600m),C2(20/04,6300m),C3(26/04,6800m),C4(16/05,7500m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Drnovsek, Pustelnik and Tarasewicz started at 08:00 hours from C4 on 17th. Drnovsek returned after one hour. At 14:00 hours Pustelnik and Tarasewicz reached summit. Visibility was poor, maybe about 15 meters and wind was strong, 80 km/h (estimated). Got back to C4 at 19:00 hours. The fall occurred after summit may be 3-4 meter away from summit while Pustelnik trying to snap his camera. Heavy wind pushed Pustelnik who bumped to Tarasewicz and together went down. Pustelnik got minor brushes. 

  Miss Czerwinska made up to 7500m; Gozdznik up to C3; Klepalz BC; Zaluski about 7700m. The expedition's 3 tents were blown away from C2 and C3. Snowfall was May 6/8 Meters. Heavy wind was almost everyday. 

  The expedition returned to KTM on the night of 26th and most of the members left on the 29th. Pustelnik to leave on 30th.

  Pustelnik told me that his wife called just few minute and informed him about the missing of Krysztof Liszewski on north side of Everest. Pustelnik asked me if I could gather information about the missing climber.

  This was the only ascent of the spring on Manaslu.

accidents:
  Tarasewicz and Pustelnik fell down about 300/400m (Tarasewicz got cut on his left chin by the ice axe of Pustelnik)


expid: MANA03102
peakid: MANA
year: 2003
route1: NE Face
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Robert Steenmeijer
sponsor: Dutch Manaslu Expedition 2003
approach: Arughat->Sotikhola->Kolabesi->Jarat->Sho->Samagaon
bcdate: 2003-04-16
smtdate: 2003-04-21
termdate: 2003-05-12
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to heavy snow (4-6m) and strong wind
campsites: BC(16/04,4675m),C1(20/04,5555m),xxx(21/04,5900m)
accidents: Common diarrhea
agency: Nepal Sanctuary Treks
routememo:
  BC at usual camp site
  C1 at usual camp site.

  April 21: Five members had to retreat from 5900m. The three Sherpas went further up to 6150m and left deposit there. After that it was not possible for members or Sherpas to reach the deposit tent at 6150m (C2). All eleven members occupied C1 on April 20. On 21st when they returned to BC tents were under snow maybe more than 4m. C1 got about 6m snow. 

  The expedition arrived KTM on 20th May and will leave on 24th. It was worst expedition for the members.

  Sherpas-support:
    Sardar Furwa Jangbu Sherpa (2027), Loding, VDC-9, Solukhumbu, Everest South 1998
    Rinji Ongel Sherpa, Beni, Solukhumbu
    Santa Gurung, Gorkha


expid: MANA03103
peakid: MANA
year: 2003
route1: NE Face
nation: Georgia
leaders: Gia Tortladze
sponsor: Independent team on Manaslu (on Pustelnik permit)
approach: Besisahar->Nadim (usual route)
bcdate: 2003-04-20
smtdate: 2003-05-14
termdate: 2003-05-16
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to bad weather conditions (snow and high wind)
campsites: BC(20/04,4700m),C1(23/04,5700m),C2(12/05,6300m),C3(13-14/05,6800m),xxx(14/05,6800m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  May 12, Tortladze and Tsikhiseli from BC to C2; May 13 to C3; stayed the night of 14th. Could not go further due to bad weather: heavy snowfall and storms. Called off the the climb. 

  Tortladze said it was very strange that snowfall and storm remained for 11 days. The team lost tent with supplies and equipment in storm from C2. The expedition returned to KTM on May 21 and probably leave on 31st. 

  Tortladze will attend the 50th Anniversary of Everest celebration and also will address the function.


expid: MANA03104
peakid: MANA
year: 2003
route1: NE Face
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Franc Pepevnik
sponsor: Slovenian Manaslu 2003 Expedition
countries: Spain
bcdate: 2003-04-12
smtdate: 2003-04-26
termdate: 2003-05-10
termnote: Abandoned at 6920m due to bad snow conditions and no more time
campsites: BC(12/04,4800m),C1(14/04,5700m),C2(24/04,6500m),C3(25/04,6800m),xxx(26/04,6920m)
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 4800m normal site above Samagaon
  C3 at 6800m little below Col
  High point at 6920m slightly above C3 on way to ridge.

  6920m highest point reached by any member when Navrsnik went there for photos on 26 April, but 2 Sherpas (1 USA Mazur and 1 Slovenian) to 7200m fixing rope. 26 April Pepevnik and Romih skied down from C3 to BC: plan had been to get to C3 in acclimatization climb, descend to BC and make summit push. 27th Navrsnik skied C3 to BC and 28th Debalak and Mlinor also C3 to BC on skis.

  Plan to rest at BC and start up on about 1 May for top. After 28 April seven days snowing so waited in BC for good weather. Up to C1 6 May Debalak and Mlinor to C1 and found 2-1/2m deep snow and the tent then buried under the snow; took 5 people (2 members and 3 Sherpas) 5 hours to dig out tent; slept then that night. During night again snowfall and again had to dig out and sleeping bags; wet-avalanche danger and 2 members went down and Sherpas stayed 1 day more. Next day evacuated camp and climb over. Higher camps probably also buried/destroyed and now no more time.


expid: MANA03105
peakid: MANA
year: 2003
route1: NE Face
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: International Manaslu Expedition
countries: Netherlands
bcdate: 2003-03-27
smtdate: 2003-05-16
termdate: 2003-05-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7620m due to heavy snow storms
campsites: BC(27/03,4860m),C1(08/04,5800m),C1.5(13/04,6460m),C2(25/04,6700m),C3(16/05,7620m),xxx(16/05,7620m)
accidents: Ang Shera frostbite
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  BC at normal site (above Samagaon)
  C3 at upper shoulder/romp
  High point at C3.

  Camp 1.5 established and slept in at 6460m because snow so deep they could not reach intended C2 site at 6700m. Big snow storm came up with 4-6 days of snowfall dumping total 10m, so on 14 April down to BC. 24 April  up to C1, 25th to C2, unable to find C1.5 because deep snow buried it. 28th started snowing and lasted over 2 weeks, so 28th down to BC and on to Samagaon 29th because so much snow. Many BC tents collapsed by wind and snow but able to dig out and repair most of them but took nearly a week to do so. 

  To C1 14th May, C1.5 15th and C2 on 16th. C1 under 9 ft of snow of C2 when 10 ft and all tents smashed and squashed all poles snapped. Managed to dig them out and repair them, so nothing lost. C3 on 16th on solid blue ice on upper shoulder on ramp. Polish summiters took some of this team's ropes fixed to C3 (50m piece) to get to top. Because of this couldn't top end of fixed ropes (because of Pole's taking) and couldn't leave C3 till wind slowed enough so could see route; left C3 on 18th with a frostbitten Ang Shera Jangbu Sherpa on one finger and possible cerebral edema. In C2 on 19th team voted to quit: all members fed up with climb.

  Coster left expedition 15 May - had had enough.
  Edwards left also 15 May - also had had enough.


expid: NEPA02301
peakid: NEPA
year: 2002
route1: SE Ridge-S Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Herbert Streibel
sponsor: DAV Summit Club
ascent1: 4th
approach: Gangtok->Lachen and then via Yakthang & Yabuk
bcdate: 2002-10-04
smtdate: 2002-10-21
termdate: 2002-10-23
campsites: BC(04/10,4934m),C1(10/10,5400m,),C2(14/10,5990m),C3(16/10,6620m),Smt(21/10)
agency: Probably none
routememo:
  Himalayan Club Newsletter 2003

  This was one of the rare expeditions in the north Sikkim area after many years to attempt Nepal Peak. They followed the route from Gangtok to Lachen and then via Yakthang and Yabuk, rest camp and established their base camp on the Nepal Gap Glacier. The base camp was established at 3900m and C3 was established on the SE Ridge of Nepal Peak at 6620m. On 21st October, 3 members climbed the South Ridge to the summit of Nepal Peak. This was one of the rare ascents of this peak. The summit was reached by the leader with Ms. Claudia Carl and Johann Paul Hinterwimmer.


  Herbert Streibel (by email) - 25-27 Oct 2005

  Some informations to the DAV Summit Club-Expedition in 2002 Nepal Peak

  In 5 days we reached the BC 4934m (Lachen-Telim-Yakthang-Yabuk-Rest Camp-BC)
  6 days more we stay the first night in C1 5400m
  4 days more we stay the first night in C2 5990m
  2 days more all members stay the night in C3 6620m
  Bad weather so we return to C1
  After 1 rest day we come back to C2
  Very windy 4 members reached C3 again
  By extreme wind 3 members reached the summit and return to C2
  Next day BC

  Above BC we used 2 Sherpas
  We had no accidents or injuries
  We used no oxygen for climbing, sleeping or medical

  We reached BC on October 4, 2002, and the summit on October 21, 2002.

  The two Sherpas reached C3, not the summit.


expid: NUPE03101
peakid: NUPE
year: 2003
route1: S Pillar-E Smt
nation: Russia
leaders: Valeri Babanov
sponsor: Nuptse South Face Expedition
countries: Kazakhstan
bcdate: 2003-03-16
smtdate: 2003-05-10
termdate: 2003-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7450m due to bad weather
agency: Windhorse Trekking
campsites:
  BC(16/03,5200m),Biv(02/04,6200m),Biv(19/04,6700m),Biv(07/05,7100m),Biv(08/05,7300m),Biv(09/05,7400m),xxx(10/05,7450m)

routememo:
  BC  on 5200m at Lhotse Nup glacier
  xxx on 7450m pillar.

  No fixed camps; each day weather permitting went up and fixed rope. When reached 6200-6300m at tower's top, slept here 2nd April and 3rd April, fixed tower and down for few day's rest. Fixed to 6400m and from there climbed alpine style on not such difficult terrain and could do this faster. Slept at 6700m 19 April there 2 stops were for acclimatization. 21 April to BC and down to Dingboche to go down to lower altitude. 

  Returned to BC after few days. Started thus trials to make higher push but snowfall prevented reaching this tent at 6700m three times. Finally got to tent in 15 hour 5 minutes climb from BC despite route mostly fixed. 6 May too windy to move up. 7 May up to 7100m where slept. 8th May to 7300m, slept there (no higher because of wind). 9th May to 7400m. 10 May started but only 50m progress and heavy snowfall and very cold and avalanche danger, so down to 7100m. 11 May very cold and down to BC 8:30 pm. Babanov throat problem down to Pheriche clinic. 

  Again to mountain started up 11 May and got to 5400m and down tired and now was snowfall continuously all day; climb finished: too much snowfall, very tired and no time left to take good rest before resuming attempt. Also Babonov throat problem persisted.

  Wants to return: now knows the route - hopes to come in Autumn 2003.


expid: NUPE03102
peakid: NUPE
year: 2003
route1: Middle pillar on S Face leading to Nuptse East
nation: Italy
leaders: Hans Kammerlander
sponsor: Nuptse East Expedition
approach: Chukkung to Lhotse Nup Glacier
bcdate: 2003-04-26
smtdate: 2003-05-06
termdate: 2003-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6880m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(26/04,5200m),C1(06/05,6880m),xxx(06/05,12,6880m)
accidents: Oberhofer serious stomach problem and slight cerebral edema and evacuated by chopper
achievment: 1st attempt on this route
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 5200m at Lhotse Nuptse Glacier
  C1 at 6880m at junction of Bonington and Babanov pillar.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Kammerlander's pillar "very logical pillar" but very hard route; some days only 40-50m at 90 degrees and overhang in places. Team very strong; weather good only 2-3 days with no snow falling and some days very strong winds. Need 3-4 days very nice weather all day. From 6800m up had ice and snow face. Fixed rope from 5400m to 6400m. 6 May reached C1, down to BC 8th May for rest. 12 May to C1 and found only broken tents, so turned around and returned base camp 10:00 pm and no more chance to climb: would have to rebuild camp and refix (first ropes buried in ice) and time over. This route more difficult than Babanov's route. 

  This team first even to attempt this route.


expid: NUPT03101
peakid: NUPT
year: 2003
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Scott Connery
sponsor: American Nuptse Expedition 2003
countries: Canada
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2003-04-10
smtdate: 2003-04-13
termdate: 2003-04-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to snow conditions and limited time
campsites: BC(10/04,5335m),C1(13/04,6096m),xxx(13/04,6096m)
agency: Mountain Madness
routememo:
  The expedition's plan was to climb up to C2 only. 

  Leader Connery left KTM on about April 19 due to home sickness. Lantz and Plouffe including BC Manager Mrs. Davis returned to KTM on April 23. Paul Giorgio was with the expedition but not on the permit. Plouffe has no idea about the arrival and departure of Canadian members. 

  The permit is for 12 members. No summit attempt planned.

  Giorgio will try Everest from South. 


expid: NUPT03102
peakid: NUPT
year: 2003
route1: Rib on N Face
nation: USA
leaders: Damian Benegas
sponsor: Lhotse International Expedition 2003
ascent1: 7th
bcdate: 2003-04-07
smtdate: 2003-05-23
smttime: 1240
termdate: 2003-05-29
achievment: 1st alpine ascent of North Face
agency: Mountain Madness
campsites:
  BC(07/04),C1(11/04,6100m),C2(15/04,6350m),Biv1(18/05,6500m),Biv2(19/05,6700m),Biv3(20/05,6950m),Biv4(21/05,7100m),Biv5(22/05,7400m),Smt(23/05)

routememo:
  BC at Everest site
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 at Cwm.

  From C2 normal Everest campsite, Benegas brothers went down the Cwm towards C2 to 6150m at base of rib and placed depot there on 15 April on the way to C2. 10th May went up to C3 of Everest/Lhotse to acclimatize after 2-1/2 weeks waiting for snow and wind to stop and for snow conditions to become safe; slept in C2 on 10 May.

  1st attempt 15 May from C2 via depot up 10 pitches of ice and rock mixed on a triangular face below where rib starts and spent night bringing harnesses; stove broke at 2:00 am, so rapelled down and returned to C2. 18th May up again. Snowed every afternoon (wet sleeping bags after 2nd night). Got above real avalanche danger but hit by spindrift. 1st biv at 6500m on 18 May; 2nd biv again on face at 6700m; 3rd on 20th at 6950m still on face. Could climb only 3-1/2 to 4 hours per day because of spindrift. Took only 3-1/2 days food supply. We climbed light (light weight). 4th biv on 21st on rib at first rock band of rib at 7100m. 5th biv on 22nd at 7400m at 2nd rock band. 23rd to top at 1:00 pm. 22nd worst day: snowed and 3 avalanches day and night of 22nd every 15 minutes had to clean off snow, Damian stayed awake all night while Willie fell asleep. 23rd ready to give up but at top of rib at 7600m saw climb not difficult and weather cleared, got so hot that they took off their down jackets. Willie on top 12:40 and Damian joined him at 1:00 pm and then climbed down to 7600m, where had left backpacks, and rapelled down Doug Scott route and direct to C2 and arrived C2 at 10:00 pm where other teams gave them food and dry sleeping bags. 24th both had to help evacuate [Guller] team's Sherpa Karma and spent all day but that evening Karma died. Return BC 11:00 pm. Willie left BC 29th. 


  Face of Nuptse (Willie Benegas):

  Later, when we arrived to our Nuptse camp, we found our poor tent looking like a snow crystal in the immensity of the Khumbu Glacier. At first glimpse, Damian thought she [the tent] had either gained a lot of weight, or she was constipated. All of the Sherpas and climbers passed her on their way to C2 of Everest and Lhotse, and it seems someone had paid her a visit and taken shelter in her sometime during the last week of storms. And that someone left the zipper on the door open a couple of inches, which was enough to let all of the snow of the Khumbu blow inside to keep her company. Damian and I stood on opposite ends of the tent, and opened the doors, expecting to see each other through the tent, Well surprise surprise - the entire tent was completely packed with snow! It took quite some time to empty her out and clean out our gear.

  After all of that, we decided to do a little side hike over to C2 and pay a visit to my Sherpa friends. After 3 summits of Everest with the same group of Sherpas, we have become really good friends, and I know that if I didn't stop in at C2 to visit, I would be in really big trouble. We stayed for dinner, and I so much enjoyed all of the comradery. To be part of this wonderful team is so amazing to me. But, I did one huge mistake. Tashi, the cook, was eyeing my MP3 player, so I let him check it out. From that moment on, the music came on and the rest of the world disappeared for him. The next thing I know, I asked him for some mango pickle to mix with my rice, and he handed me green chilly pickle. I realized his mistake when my mouth was instantly on fire and my face turned the same color as my TNF down jacket. Of course for ego reasons, I could never turn down anything passed to me from the boys.

  And that was our day. Tomorrow, Damian and I will head back over to the base of Nuptse, and began fixing the first few pitches of our route.


expid: PUMO03101
peakid: PUMO
year: 2003
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: SummitClimb Pumori Expedition 2003
ascent1: 139,140
countries: Australia, Austria, Belgium, Germany, New Zealand, UK
bcdate: 2003-03-23
smtdate: 2003-04-07
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2003-04-10
campsites: BC(23/03,5250m),ABC(28/03,5600m),C1(29/03,6140m),C2(06/04,6450m),Smt(07-08/04)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  BC  at normal site
  ABC above Lake
  C1  on SE Face glacier over mixed rock & snow slope
  C2  at 10m below big rock.

  Westlake disoriented and not above C1; Mills respiratory problem and not above ABC.

  Mazur climbed Pumori years ago and now mountain totally different: glacier receding and smaller and more broken up below C2. Had no avalanching at all (but in autumn very dangerous from avalanching). Fixed most of rope between C1 and C2 at very steep face (none above C2) because not enough time to fix more and every one ready to go for top. Weather was very warm.

accidents:
  Manning was disoriented and not above C1 and left BC about 31 March; Schwemberger failed to acclimatize and left 1 April; Mills respiratory problem and not above ABC


expid: PUMO03102
peakid: PUMO
year: 2003
route1: ESE Ridge-SSW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Pierrick Dentan
sponsor: Yosemite Pumori Expedition 2003
countries: France
bcdate: 2003-04-20
smtdate: 2003-05-07
termdate: 2003-05-09
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(20/04,5320m),xxx(07/05,6500m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at south end of little lake southeast of mountain
  High point at 6500m on west side of SSW Ridge.

  Above BC climbed on East Face of SSE Ridge to Col at this ridge stop and start of SSW Ridge. Intended to camp at Col but pure ice so did not sleep there. Fixed 500m to Col for easy retreat during 10 days (20-30 April) and reached then 4 times. 6 & 7 May climbed side of ridge, never more than 100m below ridge. Got to 6500m intending to drop on to west face of ridge but snow was like sugar on 75-80 degree slope. No firm hold here; Pierrick using 2 ice axe slipped back. Planned to summit on 8th, but attempt abandoned. Weather good.


expid: PUMO03103
peakid: PUMO
year: 2003
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: Portugal
leaders: Joao Garcia
sponsor: Portuguese Pumori Expedition
ascent1: 142
countries: Belgium
bcdate: 2003-04-04
smtdate: 2003-05-19
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2003-05-21
campsites: BC(04/04,5200m),C1(18/05,6350m),Smt(19/05)
accidents: Coelho altitude problem
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 5200m near little lake
  Deposit not slept in at 5500m at bottom of first snow gully
  C1 on 18th May at 6350m at East Col.

  Spent long time fixing rope on four days with rest days and while some acclimatizing - some did not adjust to altitude: Coelho moved above deposit and left expedition 13 May and was most serious problem. Left BC at midnight of 17/18 May. 7 members got to Col at 4:00 pm and four members not strong enough to go on; body oxygen-level low but insisted to go on but very slow in this area above Col where no ropes were fixed, even went to sleep, very slow (Santos, Rosaldo and Garcia only strong ones). Sancho turned back at 100m above Col; on top at 4:00 pm Bruno Carvalho, Ceulers, H. Ceulers, R. Coelho, Garcia, Rosado and Santos and slept at Col that night and BC 20th May.

  Coelho went only to deposit at 5500m and left team.


expid: PURB03101
peakid: PURB
year: 2003
route1: WNW Ridge
nation: Finland
leaders: Patrick (Pata) Degerman
sponsor: Team Finland to Putrung (Purbung Himal)
approach: Marshyangdi->Manang->Janghusar Khola
bcdate: 2003-04-17
smtdate: 2003-04-21
termdate: 2003-04-22
termnote: Abandoned at 6052m due to lack of time
campsites: BC(17/04,4500m),ABC(5200m),C1(18/04,5000m),C2(19/04,5400m),C3(20/04,5600m),xxx(21/04,6052m)
accidents: One serious altitude sickness (Kroeger) and 5 mild altitude sickness
achievment: 1st attempt on Putrung (Purbung Himal)
agency: Amtrek
routememo:
  BC  at 4500m Chulu West BC site between Chulu West and Gendang
  ABC at 5200m used only by BC staff for communication with climbers
  C1  at 5000m rock area under a huge rock cliff north of Gendang
  C2  at 5416m West Purkhang Glacier.

  Big problem to find a route: first thought could climb from C1 north across glacier and reach WNW Ridge from C1, but not possible because 100m seracs in steps and between glaciers were steep rock cliffs. So had to go westwards over Purkhang Glacier. Again seracs blocked direct route to WNW Ridge and again had to go around slightly to west. Team had too little time for recce and climb; had only 2 ropes of 50m to fix, them take out and fix higher. Summit push by Degerman and Kantanen from C3 2:30 am; Degerman reached high point 11:30 am and had to return to C3 by route deviation because sun warmed seracs and ice pieces falling; reached C3 at 7:30 pm. When C3 occupants were going to C2, expected to take C2's single tent and other gear and descend to village of Thorung Phedi but discovered that a journalist Arturri Kroeger (not official member of team) was in C2 with altitude sickness (both pulmonary and cerebral edema), so Karinen stayed with him while others went on to Thorung Phedi. Degerman arrived there 9:00 others biv on route and arrived early next morning. Meanwhile Dawa Kipa Sherpa went back to help Karinen evacuate Kroeger. BC people closed down BC (Karinen would like to try again but must have lot of time; would attempt same route probably).

  Mild altitude sickness:
    Kantanen - stopped in summit bid at 5700m because very tired and developed mild
      cerebral edema symptoms
    Karinen - while caring for Kroeger in C2 developed [alitiude] symptoms
    Paroma - not acclimatizing in C2
    Sipila - not acclimatizing in C1
    Sittnikov - not acclimatizing in C1


expid: TASH03101
peakid: TASH
year: 2003
route1: SW Ridge-SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Goetz Wiegand
sponsor: Saxony Himalaya Expedition
ascent1: 2nd
countries: Switzerland
approach: Jomsom->Dhampus Pass
bcdate: 2003-04-13
smtdate: 2003-04-19
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2003-04-21
othersmts: Climbed Dhaulagiri I (DHA1-031-07)
campsites: BC(13/04),C1(17/04,5850m),Smt(19/04)
agency: Asian Trekking
primid: DHA103107
routememo:
  From unnamed not could see which of neighbouring mountains was Tashi Kang so after ascent of this unnamed peak, moved from its C1 to Tashi Kang. On 19th April went from unnamed peak's C1 down East Ridge to a col 6050m and up SW Ridge of Tashi Kang to its SE Ridge. Very difficult on SW rock ridge 100m rope, very steep and sharp and some crevasses; SE Ridge 60-degree ice but no rope fixed because no time and little rope available.

  Very interesting climb: constantly changing with difficult terrain and crevasses and small face. Slept in C1. 1:00 pm on top, 6:00 pm Beltrame and Zill at C1. 20th April down to BC.


expid: TENR02401
peakid: TENR
year: 2002
route1: SE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Koichi Ezaki
sponsor: Hokkaido Mountaineering Association Expedition to Tengi Ragi Tau
ascent1: 1st,2nd
approach: Lukla->Namche->Thami->Thengpo Glacier
bcdate: 2002-11-03
smtdate: 2002-12-04
termdate: 2002-12-08
othersmts: Climbed Parchamo (all members)
campsites: BC(03/11,4800m),ABC(12/11,5300m),C1(17/11,6050m),Smt(04-05/12)
accidents: No accidents, illness or frostbite
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC  at 4800m at snout of Thengpo Glacier
  ABC at 5300m glacier at bottom of SE Face
  C1  at 6050m at SE Face Central Ridge.

  Arrived at base camp on 3 November at 4800m at the snout of the Thengpo Glacier.

  Had a look around, decided their originally selected route was impossible, and anyway planned to climb Parchermo and did so with all members reaching the summit.

  Pitched ABC on 12 Nov at 5300m on the glacier at bottom of SE Face. Climbed the central ridge of the SE Face. Established C1 on 17 Nov at 6050m on the ridge.

  Divided into two summit parties. First one of Ezaki, Ruchia Takahashi, Tul Bahadur Tamang and Pasang Tamang, got to the top on 4 Dec, and the next day the other party of Reiko Onda, Ryutaro Morishita and Danjeet Tamang were on the summit. These were the first and second ascents of the mountain.

  Team left base camp on 8 Dec to return to Kathmandu.


expid: KYAS01101
peakid: KYAS
year: 2001
route1: SE Buttress
nation: UK
leaders: Paul Ramsden
bcdate: 2001-04-04
termdate: 2001-04-18
termnote: Abandoned at 5600m due to route conditions too dangerous
campsites: BC(04/04,4400m),xxx(5600m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Had permit for S Ridge of Kangtega so that they could attempt the SE Buttress of unclimbed Peak 43. Made recon to 5600m on Peak 43 as their only climbing. Decided intended route was too dangerous through icefall and so never attempted it. Did not set foot on Kangtega. 


expid: EVER03201
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: N Face (Japanese & Hornbein Couloirs)
nation: USA
leaders: Stephen Koch
sponsor: 2003 American Comolangma Expedition
approach: By road KTM to BC
bcdate: 2003-07-22
smtdate: 2003-09-10
termdate: 2003-09-14
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to bad snow conditions
othersmts: Climbed Changzheng (Aug 6 and 18)
campsites: BC(22/07),ABC(27/07,5600m),C1(31/07,5900m),C2(08/09,6200m),xxx(10/09,7000m)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  BC  normal Chinese BC
  ABC Central Rongbuk 54 miles from foot of face
  C1  5900m 2 miles from base of face
  C2  8 Sept 6200m near base of face
  High point in Japanese Couloir (near the top).

  Tried to climb without C2 on 29 Aug. Before that acclimatized by climbing Changzheng (6970m) north of Changtse twice: Koch and Chin to top on 6 Aug and all 3 on 18 Aug (skied down both times and snowboarded down by Koch both times and Henderson skied down). 

  On 29 Aug Koch, Chin and Lhakpa Dorje  and Kami and got only to base of face at 6250m, where snow knee-deep, wind blast, and four falling seracs turned them around, so back to ABC 29 Aug and BC 30 Aug. 

  Up again to C1 on 7 Sept to C2 on 8th (C2 at 6200m) by all 3 members and both Sherpas. 9th 11:00 pm Koch, Chin and 2 Sherpas left C2 and climbed all night in increasingly deep snow; intended to get to 7800m by 11:00 am on 10th, but snow increasingly deep and they knew would take too long to get to this place, where only biv site available, so at 7000m at 8:30 am turned down to C2: Koch snowboarded down to C2 while Chin and Sherpas climbed down and reached C2 at 11:00 am. 

  Now climb finished - tired. Summit weather window had opened and they made their attempt, then window closed again with wind from north and decided weather not going to get better and snow deep.

  Koch would like to go again via same route and complete his 7 summits snowboard descents.

  Sherpas:
    Kami (Everest X2)
    Lhakpa Dorje (Everest 1996 spring with Breashears)


expid: NORB03201
peakid: NORB
year: 2003
route1: W Col-N Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Tamotsu Ohnishi
sponsor: West Nepal Expedition of Osaka Alpine Club 2003
ascent1: 1st
approach: Jomsom->Tsharka->Chhoitai Lake
bcdate: 2003-06-20
smtdate: 2003-06-25
termdate: 2003-06-26
campsites: BC(20/06,4805m),C1(22/06,5248m),Smt(25/06)
agency: Cosmo Treks
othersmts:
  Attempted Shey Shikhar (SHEY-032-01); climbed Yemelung Kang (YEMK-032-01) and Arniko Chuli (ARNK-032-01)

routememo:
  On 29th May team of climbers and trekkers flew from KTM to Pokhara, and on 30th May and 1 June flew to Jomsom. Left Jomsom on 3rd June, went northwest via Lhang Himal Khola and Chharka Tulsi Khola and arrived Chharka village 10 June. On 12 June climbers trekked westwards to Chhoitai Lake and to base camp for ascent of Norbu Kang.

  Norbu Kang base camp established on 20th June at 4805m west of lake. High camp established on 22 June at 5248m. On 23 June climbed to West Col (5492m), and on 25th from high camp fixed 50m of rope as Ohnishi, Yanigahara, Mizutani, Inoue, Chhuldim Nuru and Kanchha Dawa Sherpas climbed North Face to summit in mountain's first ascent and descended same day to base camp.

  On 26 June they went northwest to Phuksundo Lake and arrived on 1 July at site for base at 4326m to attempt Shey Shikar. On 2nd July they tried unsuccessfully to climb 200m rock face on East Ridge. On 3 July left base camp and on 4th arrived at Shey Gompa. On 7th July from Shey went north-northeast to Tibetan border and arrived on 12 July Kamo Banjyang (pass on border). From there they were unable to march to Mt. Danfe Sail (6107m).

  On 13th from Lunchung Kamo pass they moved to base camp for Yemelung Kang (6024m/19,764 ft). On 14th, Inoue, Mizutani and Akayama climbed its West Ridge and made second ascent of the mountain; they returned same day to base camp same day, and next day team left camp.

  Now they trekked southeast. On 29 of July they arrived at base camp for an ascent of Arniko Chuli at 5545m and on same day, Mizutani, Inoue, Akayama, Ang Phurba and Pasang Deki Sherpas made mountain's second ascent via West Ridge and returned to base camp. Meanwhile Yanigahara and Kanchha Dawa Sherpa went to climb an unnamed peak (5944m/19,500 ft) via its East Ridge; they were on its summit on the 30th and returned to base camp that day. On the 31st of July they left base camp and arrive Jomsom on 2 August. The expedition was finished.

  They had no accidents or illness, took no oxygen with them.


  Note: The route Japanese expedition in 2003 led by Ohnishi climbed was not main peak (according to Stefan Klassert).


expid: TASH02201
peakid: TASH
year: 2002
route1: SW Ridge-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yuichiro Ishihara
sponsor: Tokyo Workers Mountaineering Club
ascent1: 1st
approach: Jomsom->Marpha->Dhampus Pass->BC
bcdate: 2002-08-11
smtdate: 2002-08-14
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2002-08-16
campsites: BC(11/08,5400m),Smt(14/08)
achievment: 1st ascent
agency: Sherpa Summit Treks
routememo:
  Fixed ropes upto SW Ridge and half-way up SE Ridge; then ran out of ropes, so from there Mrs Mogi says, climb difficult on snow-covered ridges. Kono and Katakura very tired after getting very near top and had to be helped down to BC by 2 Sherpas each (one Sherpa came up to help escort them down). Mogi and Gyalzen only ones to top; others 3 members and 2 Sherpas stopped 15m before top because other members so exhausted could not continue up. Team left BC at 5:00 am on top 2:00 pm (others slow and stopped at 2:30 pm; return BC 6:30-7:00 pm (Mogi at 7:00 pm).


  Shyam Quikel, formerly of Tourism Ministry - 30/10/03

  Sherpa Summit trekking applied for permit for this expedition but permit was never issued; he understood they had just gone trekking.


  Tashi Kang I (6386m), northwest of Jomsom, First Ascent

  Tokyo Workers Mountaineering Club: 16 led by Yuichiro Ishihura (39) entered Hidden Valley aiming at Tashi Kang I and III, set up BC at 5400m on Aug 11. Teruyuki Iwasaki (55), Chizuko Kono (55), Yasue Mogi (51) and Aki Katakura (48) made the first ascent of Tashi Kang I on Aug 14. Also other 3 members climbed Tashi Kang III on the same day.


expid: LNKE03201
peakid: LNKE
year: 2003
route1: W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Tamotsu Ohnishi
sponsor: West Nepal Expedition of Osaka Alpine Club 2003
ascent1: 2nd
bcdate: 2003-07-13
smtdate: 2003-07-14
termdate: 2003-07-15
campsites: BC(13/07),Smt(14/07)
agency: Cosmo Treks
primid: NORB03201
othersmts:
  Attempted Shey Shikhar (SHEY-032-01); climbed Norbu Kang (NORB-032-01) and Arniko Chuli (ARNK-032-01)

routememo:
  On 13th from Lunchung Kamo pass they moved to base camp for Yemelung Kang (6024m/19,764 ft). On 14th, Inoue, Mizutani and Akayama climbed its West Ridge and made second ascent of the mountain; they returned same day to base camp same day, and next day team left camp.


  Arniko Chuli

  Now they trekked southeast. On 29th they arrived at base camp for an ascent of Arniko Chuli at 5545m, and on same day, Mizutani, Inoue, Akayama, Ang Phurba and Pasang Dikki Sherpas made mountain's second ascent via West Ridge and returned to base camp. Meanwhile Yanigahara and Kanchha Dawa Sherpa went to climb an unnamed peak (5994m/19,500 ft) via its East Ridge; they were on its summit on the 30th and returned to base camp that day.

  On 31st they left base camp and arrived at Jomsom on 2 August. The expedition was finished.
      
  They had no accidents or illness, took no oxygen with them.


  Ohnishi - Sep 1, 2003: 

  Ohnishi, Yanagihara, Chuldim Nuru Sherpa, Kancha Dawa Sherpa made first ascent of Yemelung (6024m) on 9th July via West Ridge.


expid: ARNK03201
peakid: ARNK
year: 2003
route1: W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Tamotsu Ohnishi
sponsor: West Nepal Expedition of Osaka Alpine Club 2003
ascent1: 2nd
countries: Nepal
bcdate: 2003-08-29
smtdate: 2003-08-29
termdate: 2003-08-31
campsites: BC(29/08,5545m),Smt(29/08)
agency: Cosmo Treks
primid: NORB03201
othersmts:
  Attempted Shey Shikhar (SHEY-032-01); climbed Norbu Kang (NORB-032-01) and Arniko Chuli (ARNK-032-01)

routememo:
  Arniko Chuli

  Now they trekked southeast. On 29th they arrived at base camp for an ascent of Arniko Chuli at 5545m, and on same day, Mizutani, Inoue, Akayama, Ang Phurba and Pasang Dikki Sherpas made mountain's second ascent via West Ridge and returned to base camp. 

  Meanwhile Yanigahara and Kanchha Dawa Sherpa went to climb an unnamed peak (5994m/19500 ft) via its East Ridge; they were on its summit on the 30th and returned to base camp that day.

  On 31st they left base camp and arrived in Jomsom on 2 August. The expedition was finished.
      


expid: SHEY03201
peakid: SHEY
year: 2003
route1: E Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Tamotsu Ohnishi
sponsor: West Nepal Expedition of Osaka Alpine Club 2003
approach: Jomsom->Tsharka->Chhoitai Lake->Phoksumdo Lake
bcdate: 2003-07-01
smtdate: 2003-07-02
termdate: 2003-07-03
termnote: Abandoned due to difficult rock face
othersmts: Climbed Norbu Kang (NORB-032-01), Yemelung Kang (YEMK-032-01) and Arniko Chuli (ARNK-032-01)
campsites: BC(01/07,4326m),xxx(02/07)
agency: Cosmo Treks
primid: NORB03201
routememo:
  On 29th May team of climbers and trekkers flew from KTM to Pokhara, and on 30th May and 1 June flew to Jomsom. Left Jomsom on 3rd June, went northwest via Lhang Himal Khola and Chharka Tulsi Khola and arrived Chharka village 10 June. On 12 June climbers trekked westwards to Chhoitai Lake and to base camp for ascent of Norbu Kang.

  Norbu Kang base camp established on 20th June at 4805m west of lake. High camp established on 22 June at 5248m. On 23 June climbed to West Col (5492m), and on 25th from high camp fixed 50m of rope as Ohnishi, Yanigahara, Mizutani, Inoue, Chhuldim Nuru and Kanchha Dawa Sherpas climbed North Face to summit in mountain's first ascent and descended same day to base camp.

  On 26 June they went northwest to Phuksundo Lake and arrived on 1 July at site for base at 4326m to attempt Shey Shikar. On 2nd July they tried unsuccessfully to climb 200m rock face on East Ridge. On 3 July left base camp and on 4th arrived at Shey Gompa. On 7th July from Shey went north-northeast to Tibetan border and arrived on 12 July Kamo Banjyang (pass on border). From there they were unable to march to Mt. Danfe Sail (6107m).

  On 13th from Lunchung Kamo pass they moved to base camp for Yemelung Kang (6024m/19,764 ft). On 14th, Inoue, Mizutani and Akayama climbed its West Ridge and made second ascent of the mountain; they returned same day to base camp same day, and next day team left camp.


expid: KTOK96301
peakid: KTOK
year: 1996
route1: E Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Francois Tripard
sponsor: French Dolpo Expedition 1996
ascent1: 2nd,3rd
approach: Kakot from Dunai; south via Ka (Kayo) Khola
bcdate: 1996-10-01
smtdate: 1996-10-17
smttime: 1100
termdate: 1996-10-19
campsites: BC(01/10,4800m),C1(5300m),Smt(17-18/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
primid: PUTH96301
routememo:
  Email message from Tripard - Dec 16, 2003
   
  Arrival date at your Kangtokal basecamp
    First October 1996 (we climb Putha Hiunchuli 13th October) so Kang Tokal was 
    climbed after Putha.
  Number of camps above basecamp
    Base camp 4800m, Camp 1 at 5300m near small lake southeast from summit, 
    East Ridge to reach the top.
  Summit date and time
    17th October 1996, 12h
  The names of the summiting members
    Allibert Philippe, Lazzaroni Marc, Manificat Jean Francois, Tripard Jef
  Summit date and time
    18th October 1996, 11h
  The names of the summiting members
    Lamotte Patrick, Tripard Jef
  The names of the summiting Sherpas (if any)
    No


expid: LNKE99201
peakid: LNKE
year: 1999
route1: W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Tamotsu Ohnishi
sponsor: Osaka Alpine Club Expedition 1999 to Kangtokal
ascent1: 1st
smtdate: 1999-07-09
othersmts: Recon Kangtokal (KTOK-992-01)
campsites: Smt(09/07)
agency: Cosmo Treks
primid: KTOK99201
routememo:
  Ohnishi - Sep 1, 2003: 

  Ohnishi, Yanigahara, Chhuldim Nuru Sherpa, Kancha Dawa Sherpa made first ascent of Lunchhung Kamo East (6024m) on 9th July 1999 via West Ridge.


expid: CHOB02301
peakid: CHOB
year: 2002
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Yannick Graziani
ascent1: 3rd
countries: Denmark
approach: Rowaling Valley->Beding->Na
bcdate: 2002-11-03
smtdate: 2002-11-06
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2002-11-08
campsites: BC(03/11,4500m),Biv1(04/11,5400m),Biv2(05/11,6100m),Smt(06/11)
agency: None
routememo:
  Asmus Norreslet - 6 June 2005 (by email to Richard Salisbury)

  Here is some information about our Tsoboje climb:

  Tsoboje: 4-7/11-2002

  1st day: 4/11. We are climbing the base of the mountain starting out from camp at 8:30, reaching the top of the base at 15:00. The base that starts in 4500m consists of a lot of easy ground. To start with we had to climb runnels of grass, then scrambling on big blocks, we encountered a few pitches of climbing at 3-4 grade. The base of the climb is about 900m high. From here there is a small glacier/neve up to the steep headwall that starts around 5600m. The first day we went up and fixed two rope lengths. We saw pitons and old frayed ropes on these pitches. We went back to our bivi 17:00.

  2nd day: 5/11. Leaving the bivi just before 8 o'clock. At 16:00 we found our 2nd bivi site just at the start of the final snow ridge around 6100m. This second day we did about 10-12 pitches of climbing up to grade 4+, and in the end 3 pitches of mixed climbing to reach the final snow ridge. On the way we found some evidence of previous attempts/climb. The ridge is sharp and without many bivi-sites. We rappelled down on the side to did out a platform underneath a cornice.

  3rd day: 6/11. SUMMIT. Start just before 7 o'clock, reaching the summit around 11 o'clock. The ridge to the summit is steep, with a little rock step just above the bivouac of maybe 2 grade, the ridge were with a few cornices but not too bad. We climbed back down the ridge and reached our bivouac at about 14:00. We stayed in the bivouac for the night.

  4th day: 6/12. Start 7 o'clock, down below the base of the climb 14:00. We have decided to try and go down by the face instead of coming back down the same way as up. It would be a lot of rappelling, loose rock.......not the best plan. On the photo you can see our descent route. It involves reaching the top of the hanging glacier (serac) traversing the face, up and over
  runnels, using ice screws as protection, reaching easier angled slopes further to the right of the face (looking down). From here we found our way down the right side of the glacier, did a rappel in the rocks to get over a steep rock step, leaving an piton anchor (that is the only gear we left on the mountain).

  The grade of the climb would be V/TD, 2200m


expid: KTOK62101
peakid: KTOK
year: 1962
route1: E Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Shijiro Ishizaka
sponsor: Nihon University Mountaineering Club
ascent1: 1st
approach: Mukut La->Mukutgaon->Kakotgaon->Kaya Khola
bcdate: 1962-06-03
smtdate: 1962-06-06
termdate: 1962-06-10
campsites: BC(03/06,4700m),C1,Smt(06/06)
primid: HONG62101
othersmts:
  Climbed Dhampus (DHAM-621-01), Tongu (TONG-621-01) and Hongde (HONG-621-01); attempted Churen Himal (CHUR-621-01); recon Dhaulagiri II


expid: LIK260301
peakid: LIK2
year: 1960
route1: W Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Robert Sandoz
ascent1: 1st
bcdate: 1960-10-06
smtdate: 1960-10-21
termdate: 1960-11-01
othersmts: Climbed Parchamo (PARC-603-01), Pimu (PIMU-603-01) and Singkar; recon Chobuje (CHOB-603-01)
campsites: BC(06/10,4400m),C1.IC(14/10),C2.ABC(15/10,5500m),C3(18/10),C4(19/10,6150m),Smt(21/10)
routememo:
  From La Montage, Dec 1960 (translated by Rodolphe Popier)

  Personnel: 
    Robert Sandoz (Leader)
    Cecile Barbezat
    Alain Barbezat
    Pierre Girod
    Claude Maillard: left BC before the 14th of October
    Maurice Martin: left BC before the 14th of October

  Hired: 
    Ang Namgyal (ill, did not climb, stayed at BC)
    Tsering Tarkay (up to ABC)
    Nima Tensing
    Nawang Dorjee
    Ang Dorjee
    + 85 coolies

  Schedule and miscellanous details:

  The expedition was funded by the FFM (former FFME) and Lyon Himalayan Committee (Comite Lyonnais de l'Himalaya).

  Arrival on KTM: 13 Sept
  Started from KTM (by walking): 22 Sept
  Approach via Bhote Kosi, Simigaon, Beding (3650m), Nangaon (4300m) 
  Arrival at BC: 06 Oct at 4400m

  The team used there a week period searching for its objective, intending to climb Chobutse initially on advice of Alfred Gregory (1955 expedition leader of Rolwaling expedition). 
   
  On 14 Oct, the five remaining team members left BC for intermediate camp.
  On 15 Oct, the team reached its ABC (C2 in the account) located on a glacial col at the footstep of the West Ridge of Bigphera Go Nup. 

  After a first aborted attempt by A. Barbezat and P. Girod (who thought it could be possible to climb the ridge in a round day trip, probably on the 16 Oct1960?), the team decided to climb up in two ropes, following them by a day.

  First rope: Girod, Sandoz, Nima Tensing, Ang Dorje (starting on the 17 Oct?) 
  Second rope: C. and A. Barbezat, Nawang Dorje (starting on the 18 Oct?)
   
  Within 5 days, the team put a C1 in a narrow crevasse and C2 at 6150m in a 40° face (C3 and C4 in their account). On the 4th day (20 Oct?), the first rope attempted for the summit and stopped around 6350m. On the 5th day (21 Oct), the second rope without C. Barbezat did summit around midday and slept to C2 that night (with Robert Sandoz and Nima Tensing who waited for them there), then the day after all at the ABC.

  After this success, the team decided to climb again some peaks first ascended by Gregory's team back in 1955. They so climbed Pimu on the 30 Oct (6350m, by Sandoz and Girod), Singkar the day after (6290m, by Sandoz and Nima Tensing). Then part of the team did a go and return through Tesi Lapcha and Thame to reach Namche Bazar (stayed there 5 days); on return, they climbed Parcharmo (6320m) on the 3 Nov.


expid: PANT55101
peakid: PANT
year: 1955
route1: SW side
nation: UK
leaders: Alfred Gregory
sponsor: Merseyside Himalayan Expedition 1955
ascent1: 1st
smtdate: 1955-06-03
campsites: Smt(03/06)
primid: RAMD55101
othersmts:
  Climbed Parchamo (PARC-551-01), Pimu (PIMU-551-01), Ramdung (RAMD-551-01), Chekigo (CHEK-551-01), Dingjung Ri (DING-551-01), Ripimo Shar (RIPI-551-01), Dapladadangdio and Singkar; attempted Pangbuk Ri (PANG-551-01); recon Gaurishankar (GAUR-551-01)


expid: CHUK53101
peakid: CHUK
year: 1953
route1: N Face
nation: UK
leaders: John Hunt
sponsor: British Expedition to Mt. Everest
ascent1: 1st
countries: New Zealand
smtdate: 1953-04-03
campsites: Smt(03/04)
routememo: Oxygen sets were tested for upcoming Everest climb.
primid: EVER53101
othersmts:
  Climbed Everest (EVER-531-01), Ambu Gyabjen (AMBG-531-01), Kangchung Nup (KCHN-531-01), Pointed Peak (POIN-531-01), Pokalde (POKA-531-01) and Imjatse (IMJA-531-01)


expid: TKPO84301
peakid: TKPO
year: 1984
route1: E Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Trevor Pilling
ascent1: 1st
countries: USA
approach: Phakding->Lumding La->Lumding Tsho
campsites: BC(4900m),Biv(6000m),Smt(Late Oct)
othersmts:
  Climbed Kwangde Nup (1st ascent by John Ball and Kurt Arenoe); unauthorized attempts on Hunchi (HCHI-843-01) and Nagpai Gosum by Pilling and Ball in Nov and climb of Kangchung Shar by Pilling on 21 Nov


expid: HCHI84301
peakid: HCHI
year: 1984
nation: UK
leaders: Trevor Pilling, John Ball
campsites: xxx(Nov,6400m)
primid: TKPO84301
othersmts:
  Climbed Kwangde Nup (1st ascent by John Ball and Kurt Arenoe) and Tengkangpoche (TKPO-843-01); unauthorized attempt of Nagpai Gosum by Pilling and Ball in Nov and climb of Kangchung Shar by Pilling on 21 Nov


expid: BOKT91101
peakid: BOKT
year: 1991
route1: SE Ridge-E Ridge-E Smt
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Tone Skarja
sponsor: Slovene Himalayan Expedition to Kangchenjunga & Jannu
ascent1: 1st
approach: Yalung Glacier
bcdate: 1991-04-09
smtdate: 1991-04-10
termdate: 1991-04-11
campsites: BC(09/04),E-Smt(10/04)
primid: KANG91102
othersmts:
  Climbed Kangchenjunga (KANG-911-02), Kangchenjunga Central (KANC-911-01) and Kangchenjunga South (KANS-911-01); climbed Talung illegally (TLNG-911-01); attempted Jannu (JANE-911-01)


expid: MOJC74301
peakid: MOJC
year: 1974
route1: S Ridge
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Tone Skarja
sponsor: Expedition to Kangbachen from Slovene Alpine Club, Ljubljana
ascent1: 1st
bcdate: 1974-09-08
smtdate: 1974-10-11
termdate: 1974-10-12
campsites: BC(08/09,5250m),Smt(11/10)
primid: KANB74301
othersmts:
  Climbed Kangbachen (KANB-743-01) and illegally Ramtang Chang (RAMC-743-01) and a peak of 6500m (unnamed) west of Ramtang Chang


expid: CHAG54301
peakid: CHAG
year: 1954
route1: E Ridge from S
nation: France
leaders: Jean Franco
ascent1: 2nd
approach: Arun Valley->Barun Valley
bcdate: 1954-09-15
smtdate: 1954-10-09
campsites: Smt(09/10)
primid: MAKA54301
othersmts:
  Attempted Makalu (MAKA-543-01) and Baruntse (BARU-543-01); climbed Makalu II (MAK2-543-01), Pethangtse (PETH-543-01) and Chomo Lonzo (1st ascent)


expid: CHAG89301
peakid: CHAG
year: 1989
route1: E Ridge from S
nation: UK
leaders: Michael Woolridge, Andy Fanshawe
sponsor: Blackspur Makalu Expedition 1989
ascent1: 3rd
bcdate: 1989-08-27
termdate: 1989-10-20
campsites: Smt(early Sep)
agency: Rover Treks
primid: MAKA89302
othersmts:
  Attempted Makalu (MAKA-893-02) and Kangchungste (Makalu II) (MAK2-893-01); climbed Yaupa (YAUP-893-01)


expid: RAMD52301
peakid: RAMD
year: 1952
route1: N Side
nation: UK
leaders: Tom MacKinnon
sponsor: Scottish Nepal Expedition
ascent1: 1st
approach: Charikot->Beding->Rolwaling Valley
smtdate: 1952-10-19
smttime: 0915
campsites: BC,C1(15/10),C2(16/10),C3(18/10,4875m),Smt(19/10)
othersmts:
  Climbed 3 Rolwaling peaks in Ramdung area (Ramdung, Yalung Ri (5647m), Peak 5794m), 1 Khumbu peak (Kalapattar) and 2 peaks near Junbesi


expid: PLNG52101
peakid: PLNG
year: 1952
route1: S Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Eric Shipton
sponsor: British Expedition to Cho Oyu
ascent1: 1st
countries: New Zealand
approach: Nangpa La
bcdate: 1952-05-05
smtdate: 1952-05-13
smttime: 1330
termdate: 1952-05-15
campsites: BC(05/05,5700m),C1(06/05,5800m),C2(07/05,6400m),C3(10/05,5800m),C4(12/05,6280m),Smt(13/05)
primid: CHOY52101
othersmts:
  Climbed Ripimo Shar (RIPI-521-01); attempted Cho Oyu (CHOY-521-01) and Parchamo (PARC-521-01); recon Changtse (CTSE-521-01)


expid: CTSE90101
peakid: CTSE
year: 1990
route1: SE Face-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Paul Pfau
ascent1: 12th
bcdate: 1990-04-20
smtdate: 1990-05-09
smttime: 2030
accidents: One member evacuated with cerebral edema
agency: None
campsites:
  BC(20/04),ABC(25/04,5480m),C1(27/04,5800m),C2(29/04,6100m),C3(01/05,6400m),C4(02/05,6525m),C5(03/05,6900m),Smt(09/05)


expid: SHA260301
peakid: SHA2
year: 1960
route1: Hardie Col-S Ridge (recon)
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Edmund Hillary
sponsor: Himalayan Scientific and Mountaineering Expedition
approach: Chhukung Valley
campsites: xxx(Nov,6300m)
primid: MAKA61101
othersmts:
  Climbed Ama Dablam (AMAD-611-01) and Ombigaichen (OMBG-603-01) and Island Peak (IMJA-603-01), recon Lhotse Shar (LSHR-603-01); attempted Makalu (MAKA-611-01)


expid: AMAD03301
peakid: AMAD
year: 2003
route1: S Face (to 6000m)
route2: S Face-SW Ridge up; SW Ridge down
nation: Spain
leaders: Inaki Zuza
sponsor: Ama Dablam International Expedition
bcdate: 2003-10-04
smtdate: 2003-10-17
termdate: 2003-10-20
campsites: BC(04/10,4600m),C1(07/10,5350m),C2(16/10,6300m),Smt(17/10)
agency: Khumbu Himalayan Trekking
routememo:
  BC above Mingbo (site of all SW Ridge teams)
  C1 at lake - on moraine directly below center of S Face
  C2 at 6300m on SW Ridge at C3 site for most expeditions.

  First attempted to climb S Face and fixed 700m from 5600m altitude to 6000m, but there was dangerous rock fall on face and some of it fell very near members; no one was hit but decided to abandon face and go to SW Ridge.

  So back to C1 and from there joined SW Ridge at about 5900m and in one day climbed from C1 to C2 at 6300m, next day to top by all members except Zabalata who was too tired and did not go for top. Their face route was on the far left side of face.


expid: AMAD03302
peakid: AMAD
year: 2003
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Victor Volodin
sponsor: Ama Dablam 2003
countries: Armenia, Belarus, Ukraine
approach: Lukla->Namche->Thyangboche->BC
bcdate: 2003-11-06
smtdate: 2003-11-12
smttime: 1220
termdate: 2003-11-18
campsites: BC(06/11,4800m),ABC(09/11,5200m),C1(10/11,5600m),C2(11/11,5850m),Smt(12,17/11)
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
routememo:
  12 Nov - started from C2 at 7 am; 
           Volodin summited at 12:20; Balaban at 13:00; 
           Maksimenia at 13:30; Konuokhov at 13:45;
           Stayed on the summit till 14:00, made pictures, cloudy, windy, cold to C2

  17 Nov - started from C2 at 7:30; 
           Hamamchyan summited at 15:00, stayed 30 minutes, to C2 at 10 pm.

  Pushkarev only to C1.


expid: AMAD03303
peakid: AMAD
year: 2003
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Timothy Mosedale
sponsor: British Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Thyangboche->BC
bcdate: 2003-11-03
smtdate: 2003-11-12
smttime: 1145
termdate: 2003-11-18
campsites: BC(03/11,4550m),ABC(05/11,5400m),C1(09/11,5800m),C2(11/11,5950m),Smt(12/11)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  Started from C2 at 5:15 am, summit at 11:45, stayed 15 minutes and made pictures.
  BC at 3 pm.

  Simon Booth, Kevin Gibbons, Bruce Gormley and Tracy Pfeffer reached C2 on the 11 Nov, then abandoned due to weather conditions (cold) and were tired.


expid: AMAD03304
peakid: AMAD
year: 2003
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Paul Hofer
sponsor: Independent team on Ama Dablam
approach: Lukla->Namche->BC
bcdate: 2003-10-02
smtdate: 2003-10-11
termdate: 2003-10-13
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to death of Robert Rackl
campsites: BC(02/10,4800m),C1(04/10,5800m),xxx(11/10,5800m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Started from BC at 7:30, in C1 at 11:40 saw the body of Robert Rackl who was found by 2 American climbers. Decided to abandon the climb; to BC at 13:30-14:00.

  Climb abandoned when saw body of Robert Rackl, leader of Amical expedition, whom they had become friends with in BC.


expid: AMAD03305
peakid: AMAD
year: 2003
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Matthias Robl
sponsor: DAV Summit Club Ama Dablam International Expedition
countries: Austria
bcdate: 2003-10-04
smtdate: 2003-10-17
termdate: 2003-10-19
campsites: BC(04/10,4600m),ABC(07/10,5300m),C1(08/10,5730m),C3(16/10,6300m),Smt(17/10)
accidents: Henkel pulmonary edema and left expedition 16 Oct; Stegar bad asthma
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  Down to BC on 18 Oct by summit team.  

  Steger and Mrs A. Robl did not climb above BC - Steger because of bad asthma and Mrs. Robl didn't feel fit enough. Henkel reached C1 but then got bad case of pulmonary edema and left expedition 16 Oct.


expid: AMAD03306
peakid: AMAD
year: 2003
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Ryszard Pawlowski
sponsor: Patagonia Mountain Agency (PMA) Ama Dablam Expedition 2003
countries: USA
bcdate: 2003-10-15
smtdate: 2003-10-22
smttime: 1225
termdate: 2003-11-07
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (Oct 13 by 5 members)
campsites: BC(15/10,4500m),C1(20/10,5700m),C3(21/10,6300m),Smt(22/10,02,04/11)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  First 5 members acclimatized on Island Peak and summited on 13 Oct by Czwojzinski, Dumanska, Pawlowski, Zawada and Wedell. Then to Ama Dablam by all of these members and other 3 who had not gone to Island Peak. On Ama Dablam had deposit of gear at C2 site but no space to make a camp so never slept there. After 1st summit success was heavy snowfall so 2nd summit success not until 2 Nov.

  Wedell climbed Island Peak with the team, went to Ama Dablam with them and on 18th Oct climbed alone to C1, then down to BC on 19th and left expedition same day.


expid: AMAD03307
peakid: AMAD
year: 2003
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Robert Rackl
sponsor: Amical Alpin Ama Dablam Expedition 2003
bcdate: 2003-10-06
smtdate: 2003-10-18
termdate: 2003-10-22
campsites: BC(06/10,4562m),ABC(08/10,5500m),C1(10/10,5700m),C2(17/10,6100m),C3(17/10,6400m),Smt(18-19/10)
accidents: Rackl fatal fall
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Not all members slept in ABC. 17th in C2 Lange, Hall and Fischer to sleep while Boltz, Didwiszus, Goering, Koch and Lutz onto C3 because space too small for more than three. Windy in C3 but clear days for climbing. 

  On 18th Sherpa summiters: Nawang Thile and his son Pemba [Chhoti].

  Rackl fell: went to C2 to check ropes and while he was 20m below C2 the rope he was attached to, an old rope, broke and he fell 200m down South Face into snowfield: body lowered by US climber and later this team's 2 Sherpas put body in plastic body and with members help and took to lake bottom of Face and covered with rocks.

  After Rackl's fatal accident, Dietrich and Edel decided to abandon the climb and went trekking to Kalapattar, rejoined team at BC on 19th.


expid: AMAD03308
peakid: AMAD
year: 2003
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Rudi Schweigkofler
sponsor: Trans Tirol Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 2003-11-18
smtdate: 2003-11-23
campsites: BC(18/11,4600m),C1(21/11,5500m),C2(22/11,5800m),Smt(23/11)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  "Nice place for C2 because were alone." Summit day all members in C2 but Hofer not in summit push because would be too slow. Summiters returned to C2 from top to sleep and 24th all in BC. 

  All had acclimatized well by trekking in Khumbu including going to Kalapattar.


expid: AMAD03310
peakid: AMAD
year: 2003
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: David Morton
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Ama Dablam Expedition 2003
countries: Canada
bcdate: 2003-11-19
smtdate: 2003-12-01
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2003-12-03
campsites: BC(19/11,4600m),C1(24/11,5850m),C2(29/11,6100m),C3(30/11,6350m),Smt(01/12)
accidents: Jacobus retinal hemorrhage; Zinck slight altitude problem
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  Left C3 for top at 10:00 am, delayed by strong winds before that winds abated enough to permit climb and very windy mostly final day's climb but not bad on top. On return to C3 at 4:30 pm found 2 tents unusable from the wind tears so down to C2 by Hunter and both Sherpas at 8:30 pm. Morton and Jacobus suffering from retinal hemorrhage which developed in one eye during descent and left that eye with almost no vision, came down slowly and had to biv at 6200m in sleeping bags cleared from C3; biv at 6:30 pm, in spot just below SW Ridge on its east side, protected from wind. Jacobus's vision greatly improved in 24 hours but not fully till arrived KTM 6 Dec.

  Zinck had left BC on 26 Nov; had gone up to 5400m only and left because not acclimatizing.

  Summit Sherpas: both from Thami, both scaled Ev 7 times and Kami Rita known as "Topke" also summited Cho Oyu once.


expid: AMAD03311
peakid: AMAD
year: 2003
route1: SW Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Mark Sedon
sponsor: Independent climber
bcdate: 2003-11-03
smtdate: 2003-11-05
termdate: 2003-11-06
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to cold weather and lack of time
othersmts: Lobuche East and Island Peak
campsites: BC(03/11,4600m),C1(04/11,5500m),xxx(05/11,6200m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  High point at 6200m at normal site for C3.

  At C1 used tent of fellow New Zealander Anna Keeling, member of Angela Hawse expedition. Went for summit from C1, but extremely cold wind drove him back from 6200m and he returned to C1 that night. He left the mountain and went to Khumjung on the 6th and Lukla on the 8th. Not clear why he didn't do what Hawse members did, which was to retreat on 5th from 6200m and wait below for better weather; perhaps he simply had enough climbing by now after having been on 2 trekking peaks and wanted to to go home now.


  Sedon by email - 27 Nov 03

  Left Ama Dablam immediately because it was the end of my trip after guiding Lobuche (Lobuje) East and Island Peak.


expid: AMAD03312
peakid: AMAD
year: 2003
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Park Mun-Sang
sponsor: New York Alpine Club Ama Dablam
countries: S Korea
bcdate: 2003-11-03
smtdate: 2003-11-14
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2003-11-16
campsites: BC(03/11,4600m),C1(06/11,5800m),C2(07/11,6000m),C3(13/11,6400m),Smt(14/11)
agency: Hyecho Adventure Trekking
routememo:
  In summit bid, left C3 in 2 groups: 1st group 5:45 am and 2nd group 6:00 and 1st group on top 10:30 and 2nd group 10:45; back to C2 (2nd group) and 1st group to BC same day.

  Sherpas: 
    Pasang Tshering, 1974, Khumjung
    Lhakpa Sonam, 1983, Lukla
    Nawang Wangchu, 1974, Chaplung, Khumbu
    Mingma Wangdel, 1968, Walung, Makalu

  1st group: Im, Kang, Lee Jong-Kwan, Pasang Tshering, Lhakpa Sonam
  2nd group: Kwon, Park Sang-Yoon, Shim, Nawang Wangchu, Mingma Ongel


expid: AMAD03313
peakid: AMAD
year: 2003
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Lathrop Strang
sponsor: Independent team
bcdate: 2003-11-01
smtdate: 2003-11-11
termdate: 2003-11-13
campsites: BC(01/11,4600m),C1(04/11,5800m),C2(10/11,6100m),Smt(11/11)
agency: Nomad Expeditions
routememo:
  Only people on top on 11th. Wonderful being alone. Slept in C2 on the 11th and back to BC on 12th.

  Rigby did not go above C2 on 11th because of pleurisy.


expid: AMAD03314
peakid: AMAD
year: 2003
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Angela Hawse
sponsor: Mama Dablam Women's Expedition to Ama Dablam
countries: New Zealand
bcdate: 2003-10-27
smtdate: 2003-11-09
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2003-11-11
campsites: BC(27/10,4600m),ABC(30/10,5450m),C1(31/10,5800m),C2(04/11,6000m),C3(05/11,6400m),Smt(09/11)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  1st summit bid from C3 6 Nov 500 ft above C3 and turned back because very cold strong wind (by Andrews, Casley, Hawse, Keeling, Pryor, Stewart) and back to C1.

  2nd bid by Casley, Hawse and Pryor on 9th Nov from C2 and Cosley turned back 500 ft below top because of throat problem while Pryer and Hawse went on to top; left C2 6:00 am and on top 1:00 pm and back to C2 at 5:00 pm. 

  Siemers left expedition 5 Nov because she didn't like the rock climbing between C1 and C2. Wahl went no higher than ABC because she didn't acclimatize well; Jain also went no higher than ABC because of persistent lung infection which most members also got.


expid: AMAD03315
peakid: AMAD
year: 2003
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Larry Boersma
sponsor: Independent climber
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2003-10-12
smtdate: 2003-10-15
termdate: 2003-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to Sherpa reluctance after Rackl's death and distrust of ropes on mtn
campsites: BC(12/10),C1(15/10,5200m),xxx(15/10,5800m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  29 Sept arrived in KTM
  04 Oct flight to Lukla

  1) he was not sure if the ropes were in good condition
  2) Sherpa was reluctant to climb after the death of Robert Rackl


expid: AMAD03319
peakid: AMAD
year: 2003
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Todd Passey
sponsor: Independent team on Ama Dablam
bcdate: 2003-10-08
smtdate: 2003-10-17
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2003-10-18
campsites: BC(08/10,3050m),ABC(10/10,5300m),C1(11/10,5800m),C3(15/10,6300m),Smt(17/10)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  11 Oct headed for C2 but turned around when Robert Rackl (German expedition leader) fell to his death and slept that night in Henry Todd's BC and 12th down to Namche Bazar. 13th back to Pangboche, 14th to ABC 15th to C1, 16th to C3 and 17th to summit.

  Sjolseth left mountain with the Passeys on 12th and did not return to it because he was tired, didn't want to wait any more and perhaps "a bit shaken" when Rackl died.


  Email from Todd Passey to Elizabeth Hawley - 8 Nov 2003

  1) We first arrived in Pangboche. I believe on the 8th of Oct. We never stayed in the normal base camp. 
  2) We stayed in Pangboche on the ninth because of the storm and went to ABC on the tenth. On the eleventh we headed for camp two and turned around when Robert fell. We returned to Henry Todd's base camp that night and went to Namche on the 12th. The thirteenth we returned to Pangboche. On the 13th we went to ABC. The 14th camp one. On the fifteenth we skipped camp two and went all the way to three. 
  3) Tom Sjolseth went with us to Henry Todd's base camp, stayed there while we went to Namche and met us in Pangboche on the thirteenth. Tom left for Kathmandu on the morning of the fourteenth and I believe arrived on the sixteenth. 
  4) We went to Pangboche on the 18th. Phakding on the 19th and Kathmandu on the 20th. We left Kathmandu on I believe the 22nd a Monday.


expid: AMAD03321
peakid: AMAD
year: 2003
route1: SW Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Luis Benitez
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Ama Dablam 2003 Expedition
countries: Netherlands, Switzerland, USA
bcdate: 2003-10-22
smtdate: 2003-11-03
smttime: 1430
campsites: BC(22/10,4200m),ABC(28/10,5500m),C1(29/10,5850m),C2(01/11,6000m),C3(02/11,6350m),Smt(03/11)
accidents: Emerson stomach problem; Coughlin exhaustion
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Teams showed up at BC in 3 waves and this team happy to be among first wave. If all had shown up, would have been impossibly crowded; it was bad enough when Koreans put C2 right in middle of trail and was necessary to unclip from rope until Moffat fixed rope around them (Koreans demonstrated lack of space for camp platforms). 

  Emerson reached C1 and then got a stomach "bug" and left BC 2 Nov; Couglin went to C2 but went no higher because of exhaustion and retreated to BC.


  Calling from the summit of Ama Dablam

  "That's right, the summit!" The Adventure Consultants team reached the top of the Ama Dablam at about 2:30 pm Nepal time today and expedition leader Luis Benitez whipped out the satellite phone to call in the good news. "Every body is felling really, really good. We're taking pictures, eating chocolates, slapping each other on the back.... we've got a great view of Everest and just enjoying each other's company before its time to go down. So .. we did it!" And befoe Luis hung up the phone, the guys sent up wild cheer of excitement live from the summit of Ama Dablam.

  The team has since filed a second audio dispatch to report that they are now safely back in C3 and will return to C1 tomorrow. Luis reported that team members Joe and Hamish had remained in BC, unable to make the bid due to stomach bugs and other ailments, but the guys were all on the summit in spirit.


expid: AMAD03324
peakid: AMAD
year: 2003
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Eric Larson
sponsor: American team on Ama Dablam
bcdate: 2003-10-07
smtdate: 2003-10-11
termdate: 2003-10-12
termnote: Abandoned at 5600m due to lack of time after assisting in Rackl accident
campsites: BC(07/10,4800m),C1(18/10,5200m),xxx(11/10,5600m)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  High point at C2 site.

  On 11 Oct both members went up to C2 but did not sleep there because of Rackl's fall (he was leading Amical German team) at 30m below in descent from C2 when fixed rope broke (it was an old line and the only one there); he had gone up to see what gear needed for climb above.

  After this event, Mazur fixed entire route. Tyson and Larson rapelled down 140m to snow ledge where body stopped (head badly smashed and other bones broken), lowered body to length of rope available and then let body drop down east side where Sherpas could go around and reach it. Now no time left. They had gone to Ama Dablam for the pleasures of it after leading Cho Oyu expedition and had good time.


expid: AMAD03325
peakid: AMAD
year: 2003
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Scott Gould
sponsor: Catskill Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Thyangboche->BC
bcdate: 2003-10-05
smtdate: 2003-10-18
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2003-10-20
campsites: BC(05/10,4800m),C1(08/10,5200m),C2(10/10,5800m),C3(13/10,6200m),Smt(18/10)
agency: Sherpa High Ambitions
routememo:
  Started from C3 9:30, 12:30-14:00 pm or 2 hours on the summit and made pictures; C3 at 4 pm.
  At the same time were 4 members from German Amical group.

  Rackl was 1 hour before them; they saw his body at 12:00 and he was already dead (lot of blood). The members Alpine Ascent groups lowered Rackl down towards C2 for 100-200m from the place of the accident.

  This American group made stretchers and carried the body to C2.


expid: AMAD03326
peakid: AMAD
year: 2003
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Michael Hamill, Justin Marle
sponsor: Independent team on Ama Dablam
bcdate: 2003-10-07
smtdate: 2003-10-20
smttime: 0950
termdate: 2003-10-11
othersmts: Cho Oyu before Ama Dablam
campsites: BC(07/10,4000m),C1(10/10,5700m),C2(19/10,6000m),Smt(20/10)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Pangboche village
  C1 at normal site.

  10 Oct all down to BC and used Todd's tent there. Merle had heard Rackl's fall (Hamill saw him fall). 

  Hamill and Madison not interested in climbing Ama Dablam now (not comfortable on the idea). Hamill left BC on 11 Oct and Madison the next day while Merle left to go trekking "and clear my friend" on 13th; returned to BC on 17 Oct, up to C2 19th and on to top next day alone (Sherpas had gone to Pangboche by now). Merle was 1st on top (at 9:50 am) and down to C1 to sleep. BC on 21st.


expid: AMAD03328
peakid: AMAD
year: 2003
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: SummitClimb Ama Dablam Expedition 2003
countries: Australia, Canada, Finland, Sweden, UK
bcdate: 2003-10-07
smtdate: 2003-10-20
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2003-10-26
campsites: BC(07/10,4600m),ABC(10/10,5160m),C1(16/10,5650m),C2(18/10,6000m),C3(20/10,6300m),Smt(20-23/10)
achievment: 1st Finnish summiters
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  Cleared mountain of 2-3 kg of old rope and fixed new rope from C1 to top. New ropes fixed by this expedition, Mexicans, Amical Sherpa DAV; Scott Gould also helped; prompted by Robert Rackl's fatal fall because of faulty rope. 

  Reilly, Naderi, Samson, Lhakpa and Tenzing (Makalu) left C3 24 Oct for top, stopped 50m below top because of strong wind 60 knots/hr; wind driven snow, no visibility (more on hands and knees) and back to C3; snowed for 3 continously days; climb finished. 

  Summiters on 20th reached top after Germans; on 21st were only people on that day; on 22nd were the first on top, ahead of Mexican expedition; on 23rd Singleton was on top at 11:00 and others after him.

  Sherpas: 
    Shera - Ama Dablam X3 
    Pasang Norbu Lama, Everest X3, from Makalu Barun 
    Gyalu - Ama Dablam X3
    Tenzing from Okhaldhunga 
    Miss Maya, 23, Okhaldhunga (this her first mountains and not competent climber)

  Departure early and health problems: 
    Burgess suffered deep rope burn at about 5600m on 17 Oct and left expedition;
    Morris left with Burgess, his client;  
    Strehlow got flu and left 20 Oct (reached C1 only);
    Garrington got cerebral edema, reached ABC only and left expedition 18 Oct; 
    Morris left with Burgess, his client; 
    Purchase reached ABC only (was pregnant), left 17 Oct; 
    Rolfson sprained his ankle descending from C1 to BC on 19 Oct but went up 
      later to C3 and on team's trek out from BC his ankle collapsed at 
      Phakding and he rode a horse to Lukla; 
    Tranter was mildly sick with stomach trouble, had cold, chest infection 
      and went to C1 only.


expid: AMAD03322
peakid: AMAD
year: 2003
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Mexico
leaders: Hector Ponce de Leon
sponsor: Nico International Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Spain, USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Thyangboche->BC
bcdate: 2003-10-02
smtdate: 2003-10-18
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2003-10-20
campsites: BC(02/10,4800m),ABC(05/10,5200m),C1(07/10,5800m),C2(10/10,6200m),Smt(18/10)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Ponce de Leon from BC 1:30 am, summit at 11 am, to C1 at 5 pm.
  Segarra from C2 5 am, summit 11 am to C1 at 5 pm.
  3 other climbers from German group (Amical) and 2 Sherpas at same time.

  Garcia, Montero, Sanchez left BC 17 Oct due to: too tired, not enough acclimatization.


expid: AMAD03402
peakid: AMAD
year: 2003
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Rick Marchant
sponsor: Jagged Globe Ama Dablam Expedition 2003
countries: Canada, Netherlands
bcdate: 2003-11-28
smtdate: 2003-12-06
termdate: 2003-12-12
campsites: BC(28/11,4500m),C1(02/12,5700m),C2(08/12,5950m),Smt(06,09/12)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  Hartland arrived BC 3 Dec, 4 Dec to C1, 5 Dec to C2, 6th Dec to top to BC and left BC on 8th. Was a Jagged Globe leader and bought into this expedition on his own, joined the team when they had already put in C1 and C2 (C2 not yet occupied), then went ahead of them and summited by himself.

  Rutherford went to C2 but did not feet strong enough for summit bid. 

  Vreugdenhil made carry to C1, then decided climb was not for him; stayed at BC briefly, then trekked to Namche Bazar and returned to BC and left with team.


  From Jagged Globe: 

  From Camp 1 to Camp 2 this time was a more difficult challenge with the extra burden of sleeping bags and other gear. Camp 2 is perched on the ridge, a bit of an eagles nest when viewed from above but our Sherpas did a great job lashing the tents into place. Protected from the cold breeze that fluttered the prayer flags, warmed by the sun, it's an amazing place to contemplate the surrounding peaks. For Sandra this was a well earned high point and altitude record.

  The following day as the moon was setting and just before the first rays of the sun hit the camp Henk, Katja, Isabelle, Rick, Pema and Dawa set off for the summit. Though our attention was focussed on safely negotiating the fixed line and difficult terrain above Camp 2, it was hard not to let your gaze drift to the view around us. Or maybe it was just an excuse to stop and gasp for breath. We arrived as 2 groups at the summit at 12 noon and 2 pm on December 9th.


expid: AMAD03403
peakid: AMAD
year: 2003
route1: SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kwon Soon-Doo
sponsor: 2003/04 Korea Ulsan Jin Alpine Club Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 2003-12-10
smtdate: 2003-12-20
termdate: 2003-12-23
campsites: BC(10/12,4500m),C1(14/12,5800m),C2(19/12,6100m),Smt(20/12)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  All 3 members and sirdar Pemba Dorje left C2 for top at 7:30 am but Kwon stopped at 6700m; Kwon had gone up slowly and at 6700m 4:00 pm met summiters descending. Now very cold, very windy so Kwon turned back with summiters and all returned C2 8:30 pm using headlamps. 21st all in BC.

  Summit party fixed rope from 6700m to top.


expid: AMAD03320
peakid: AMAD
year: 2003
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Shomi Suzuki
sponsor: Ama Dablam Japanese Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2003-10-27
smtdate: 2003-11-08
smttime: 1350
termdate: 2003-11-13
campsites: BC(27/10,4600m),ABC(31/10,5500m),C1(02/11,5800m),C2(03/11,6000m),C3(07/11,6300m),Smt(08-09/11)
agency: Rolwaling Trek
routememo:
  BC at 4600m at usual site.

  Nov 08: Kokuko, Suzuki, Ngima and Doma left C3 at 09:30 hours, summited at 13:50 and spent about 10 minutes descended to C2 at 18:00 hours. No other expedition on that day.

  Nov 09: Osuke Hirano, Kajiyama, Komiya, Kumada, Shimada, Kilo Sherpa and Pema Nuru Sherpa left C3 between 08:00-09:00 hours. Summited all together at 13:00 hrs and spent between 10-15 minutes on top. Hirano and Shimada stayed at C3, rest of the members descended to C2 at 19:00 hours. 

  Weather on both days was very good. The expedition returned to KTM on Nov 15 and will leave on 17th.

  1  Doma Chhiri Sherpa (1981-11-18)
     Jubing VDC 6, Solukhumbu

  2. Pema Nurbu Sherpa (2037-4-7)
     Gaurishankar VDC 1
     Rolwaling, Dolakha
     Everest 2003 Spring - Japanese Expedition

  3. Ngima Sherpa (1974-5-23)
     Gorekhani VDC 4, Solu, Solukhumbu

  4. Kili Pemba Sherpa (22 years)
     Gaurishankar VDC 1, Beding, Charikot, Dolakha
     Everest 2003 Spring (North) French Expedition


expid: AMAD03401
peakid: AMAD
year: 2003
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Viatcheslev Glebov
sponsor: Baumar University Alpine Club Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 2004-01-12
smtdate: 2004-01-20
termdate: 2004-01-23
campsites: BC(12/01,4500m),C1(14/01,5800m),C2(18/01,6100m),C3(19/01,6400m),Smt(20-21/01)
accidents: Leader minor throat problem
agency: Ang Rita Treks
routememo:
  Acclimatized first on Kalapattar. 

  Used 4 Sherpas to carry loads on trail to C1 only. In evacuating no members brought down gear from C1 to 5600m because Sherpas said too dangerous after heavy snowfall 23-24 Jan covered boulders.

  20 Jan summiters followed same pattern 1 day later. Glebov went to C3 but throat problem kept him from going on to top. Had planned to have no fixed ropes and camps and spend only 3 nights, but Dobsinsky was not strong enough climber for this style of climbing and so had to revert to classical style.


expid: AMOT03301
peakid: AMOT
year: 2003
route1: S and E sides (recon)
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
sponsor: Terres d'Adventure Amotsang Expedition
approach: Ktm to Manang by air
bcdate: 2003-10-30
smtdate: 2003-11-02
termdate: 2003-11-04
othersmts: Climbed Thansunjiti (6084m) and Jomsom (JOMS-033-01)
campsites: BC(03/10,4880m),C1(01/11,5400m),Thansunjiti.Smt(02/11),C2(03/11,5650m),Jomson.Smt(04/11)
achievment: 1st ascent of Thamsunjiti and Jomson
agency: Glacier Safari Treks
routememo:
  BC at 4880m at Labse Khola
  C1 at 5400m on moraine near small lake
  C2 at 5650m on col between Jomson Peak and Thansunjiti

  From Hongde east via Marshyangdi River to Koto village, north to Phu Khola, Nargaon, to Labse Khola, where pitched BC much too far from Amotsang. Intended to attempt Amotsang via its West Ridge but never got on to mountain. From BC went north near Labse Khola then east to C1 NNE of point 5482 on HMG's Damodar Himal Map. From C1 all members and both "Sherpas" on 2 Nov went south and climbed Thansunjiti, 6107m (HMG map says 6084m), via its short west flank to North Ridge, in an easy climb on snow; left C1 at 8:00 am, on top at 1:30 pm and returned to C1 at 3:30 pm.

  3rd Nov De Varax, Exbrayat, Gaume, Grobel, Rouge and Mingma Temba went south to Jomsom La, the col between Jomsom and Thansunjiti where pitched  C2. On 4 Nov they went to Jomsom Peak, 6107m (map says 6335m), via a rock ridge leading to point 6120m, traversed under this summit onto Jomsom's West Ridge; they had left C2 at 5:00 am and climbed up West Ridge, which was mixed rock and snow, the snow covered section 40-45 degree steep, and at 11:30 am all except Rouge reached Jomsom summit at 11:30; Rouge turned back at 5900m with headache and returned to BC. Summiters returned to C2 at 3:30 pm and BC next day. 

  Meanwhile Chavy, Jacquet, Martin and Ratna Man Lama left BC on 4 Nov, to search for the best BC site for climbing Amotsang. With one bivouac at Labse Khola at about 4600m and another biv at 5000m on 5th Nov, they went around southern side of Amotsang and north to its east side; decided best approach would be directly from Phugaon to Amotsang's east side. They went to Phugaon and Koto, and climbing party of 5 members and Mingma Temba met them at Koto on 9 Nov, having left BC on 6th.

  Thansunjiti summited on 2 Nov by Chavy, De Varax, Exbrayat, Gaume, Grobel, Jacquet, Martin, Rouge, Ratna Lama and Mingma Temba Sherpa.

  Jomson top summited on 4 Nov by De Varax, Exbrayat, Gaume, Grobel and Mingma Temba (from Makalu area).


expid: ANN103301
peakid: ANN1
year: 2003
route1: S Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Adriano Favre
sponsor: Valle Aosta Annapurna Expedition 2003
bcdate: 2003-09-12
smtdate: 2003-10-16
termdate: 2003-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to strong wind and lack of rope
campsites: BC(12/09,4300m),C1(15/09,4900m),C2(02/10,6130m),C3(08/10,6950m),xxx(16/10,7500m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at west side of South Annapurna Glacier
  C3 at 6950m in big crevasse
  High point at 7500m at top of rock wall.

  Spent last half of Sept fixing 1000m rope from 5500m to C2 at 6130m high at point 7500m reached at 1:30 pm and no more rope for couloir above, so down to BC. 20 Oct back up to C2 direct and 21 and 22 Oct to C3 and 22nd Oct 1st group were two Sherpas (both named Dawa) to 7300m "flat iron" and back to C3 because of wind. Waited for members in 2nd group; now very very cold and winds broke one tent on edge of crevasse so decided to abandon climb in very cold weather on vertical wall; 2nd group was Camandona, Farina, Gontier and Kuntner. From C2 to C3 this team climbed in couloir to left of ridge; British in 1970 climbed ridge which now impossible because of ice mushroom. If had been able to start climb one week earlier, could have reached summit but nearly part of time after arriving at BC some of snow every day. One difficult section was 50m high serac of 80-90 degrees from 6800m to 6850m.


expid: ANN303301
peakid: ANN3
year: 2003
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Kenton Cool
sponsor: Annapurna III
ascent1: 11th
countries: USA
bcdate: 2003-10-07
smtdate: 2003-11-06
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2003-11-10
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
campsites:
  BC(07/10,4000m),ABC(14/10,5495m),Biv1(31/10,5500m),Biv2(01/11,6000m),Biv3(02/11,6250m),Biv4(03/11,6500m),Biv5(04/11,6650m),Biv6(05/11,7000m),Smt(06/11)

routememo:
  BC  at 4000m East Annapurna Glacier
  ABC at 5495m moraine just before icefall
  Biv 1 at 5500m top of "nose"
  Biv 2 at 6000m another serac of SW Ridge
  Biv 3 at 6250m on SW Ridge
  Biv 4 at 6500m snowhole SW Ridge
  Biv 5 at 6650m small ledge
  Biv 6 at 7000m at huge cave in snow crevasse on SW Ridge.

  Just above ABC had to "run" under dangerous icefall, which was very active releasing ice a dozen times a day ("it was scary"), then up a rock "nose" on top of which pitched Biv 1 (pitched a lot of bivs because of no fixed rope). Had one tent with them above ABC in alpine style climb. Poor quality rocks - middle section moderately steep snow and ice (6000-6500m biv) quite poor snow quality (granular snow). Above 6500m-6700m steep loose rock and some vertical ice. From 6700m to top knife-edge ridge to 7000m and above easy climb on snow to top. On top at 12:30 pm on 6th and slept at biv 6. 7th slept in Biv 2, BC 8th very late (8:00 pm after dark but full moonlight). On last bit on way up and down were crouching in strong wind gusts and very cold.


expid: ANN303302
peakid: ANN3
year: 2003
route1: W Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Rudy Buccalla
sponsor: Italian Annapurna III Expedition
bcdate: 2003-10-11
smtdate: 2003-10-27
termdate: 2003-10-31
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to too much snow and avalanche danger
campsites: Bc(11/10,4000m),C1(15/10,4800m),C2(18/10,5500m),C3(25/10,6100m),xxx(27/10,6100m)
agency: Numbur Himal Treks
routememo:
  BC at 4000m East Annapurna Glacier's mouth
  C1 at 4800m just below major rocks between 2 Glacier
  C2 at 5500m at top of rock at start of snow ridge
  C3 at 6100m on small shoulder, on snow, at first part of S face proper.

  Very difficult mountain because it doesn't gain altitude till about 6000m and very long winding route to get there. Did not climb above a higher camp. Planned to climb a couloir just above C2 to get onto West Ridge. In summit push started from BC on 25th and slept in C2 26th, made C3 on 27th. During night of 27th started snowing so 28th decided to go down to BC and reached there through fog at first part of descent. After 2 days decided too much snow in couloir and avalanche danger so climb finished. 30th up to C3 to bring it and lower camps down.

  Maoists collected Rs 1000 per Italian and none for Nepalese.


expid: ANN403301
peakid: ANN4
year: 2003
route1: W Pillar/Ridge
route2: SW Face
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Radek Lienerth
sponsor: French Expedition Annapurna IV
countries: Canada
approach: Pokhara->Seti Khola
bcdate: 2003-09-23
smtdate: 2003-10-11
termdate: 2003-10-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to avalanching
campsites: BC(23/09,4500m),C1(02/10,5100m),C2(04/10,5700m),xxx(11/10,6400m)
agency: Everest Adventure
routememo:
  BC at meadow snowfall by glacier north-northwest of summit
  C1 at glacier field below SW Face
  C2 at start of SW Face
  High point at SW Face.

  Doudlebsky and Lienerth attempted West Ridge but after 7 pitches found rock very rotten slabs and no protection, so abandoned route after a day of climbing and back to BC. Other plan was to ascend ramp north of summit but too many avalanches of seracs to try ramp at all. 

  So went around to SW face and reached 6400m but found ice surface had running water under it on rock underneath. Wile Blaza and Hnojna were in C2 early morning of 12 Oct big avalanche of rock and some ice came down over their heads and took away route down to C1, so decided to abandon climb and go to BC clearing mountain as went down. Had fixed 850m between C2 and high point. 

  Weather was perfect, but water running because warm weather, constant avalanching all along southern side of horse shoe of Macchapuchare, Annapurna II and Annapurna IV.


expid: ANN403302
peakid: ANN4
year: 2003
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Gary Hayes
sponsor: Annapurna IV 2003
countries: Denmark, UK
approach: Marshyangdi->Sabje Khola
bcdate: 2003-09-14
smtdate: 2003-10-03
termdate: 2003-10-07
termnote: Abandoned at 6380m due to impossible crevasses and no more time
campsites: BC(14/09,4800m),C1(20/09,5400m),C2(26/09,5900m),xxx(03-04/10,6380m)
agency: Sea to Summit Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 4800m south of Hongde airport & NNE of the Dome
  C1 at 5400m North Ridge leading to NW Ridge (& on top)
  C2 at 5900m North Ridge.

  On high point 3 Oct Carlin, Ridley, Soren, Michaels and on 4 Oct Reilly, Michaels and Ridley to have another look to try to find a way around 10m wide crevasse but didn't see one, so climb finished. No time left anyway for summit try and snow was very deep which meant slow climbing. Had C2 taken away by avalanche on 21 Sept; this made team to split into 2 parties so not whole expedition in C2 together. From 20 to 27 Sept 4 days of snowfall constantly and causing many avalanches. In C1 side blast hit camp but no damage (also on about 21 Sept).


expid: ANN403303
peakid: ANN4
year: 2003
route1: NW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Richard Wilcox
sponsor: American Annapurna IV Expedition
bcdate: 2003-09-22
smtdate: 2003-10-09
termdate: 2003-10-13
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to high winds and uncosolidated snow
campsites: BC(22/09,4900m),C1(29/09,5200m),C2(05/10,5500m),C3(08/10,6550m),xxx(09/10,6700m)
accidents: Payne's fall
agency: Sherpa High Ambitions
routememo:
  Highpoint at 6700m at summit ridge just above the Dome.

  Were in C3 3 days in very strong wind with blue sky, but wind and unconsolidated snow on the NW Ridge made them decide to abandon climb. Had surmounted the crevasse that had stopped the Australians by in providing a ladder out of 2 members and reached high point along eastern extension of the Dome. 

  Payne fell 3m in fixed line between C1 and C2 when piton pulled out; broke some ribs. 

  Worked well with Austrians and their Sherpas; had to refix rope because Australians pulled all of theirs out.


expid: ANN403304
peakid: ANN4
year: 2003
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Reinhold Oblak
sponsor: Environmental Expedition to Annapurna IV
countries: Luxembourg, USA
bcdate: 2003-10-09
smtdate: 2003-10-19
termdate: 2003-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to wind
campsites: BC(09/10,4810m),C1(11/10,5450m),C2(14/10,5910m),C3(17/10,6485m),xxx(19/10,6800m)
accidents: Wirbel descending C1 to BC slipped on moraine and hurt Achilles heal and left BC 14 Oct
agency: Blue Sky Treks
routememo:
  BC at 4800m Sabje Khola
  C1 at 5450m after rock section
  C2 at 5910m on northeast rib.
  C3 behind Dam
  High point at North Face 250m below NW Ridge.

  Slept in C3 3 nights. 19th tried to go to C4 site at 7000m but reached only 6800m and set 1 tent there but had wind and so retreated to C3. 19th night worst wind storm ever had, so 20th am decided to retreat to C1 that day, 21st decided wind would not abate, decided to abandon climb. Wind plumes 200-300m off summit. Fixed rope from BC to 6800m in steep parts.


expid: ANN403401
peakid: ANN4
year: 2003
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Malaysia
leaders: Fauzan Hassan
sponsor: Malaysian Everest 2004 Expedition to Annapurna IV
accidents: Nothing on way to and from BC
agency: Himalayan Treasure
routememo:
  3m deep snow stopped team from reaching BC on 23 and 24 Jan. Got to Honzda and Hongde villages. Waited at Hongde for good weather till 25 Jan and members 26th. No more time for climbing.


expid: BARU03301
peakid: BARU
year: 2003
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Latvia
leaders: Aigars Prieditis
sponsor: Independent climber
bcdate: 2003-10-03
smtdate: 2003-10-06
termdate: 2003-10-08
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to faulty (tight) boots and acclimatization difficulties
campsites: BC(03/10,5400m),C1(06/10,6100m),xxx(06/10,6100m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  at 5400m at lake west of West Col
  C1  at 6100m very near West Col
  xxx at C1.

  Prieditis went to BC with Austro-Belgium Baruntse expedition and climbed to C1 with them, slept there one night only and immediately left C1 and abandoned climb. 

  Berkowitsch said Prieditis not well acclimatized; Poudel explained his boots were much too tight so he could not climb in them.


expid: BARU03302
peakid: BARU
year: 2003
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Wilhelm Berkowitsch
sponsor: International Baruntse Expedition
countries: Belgium
bcdate: 2003-10-03
smtdate: 2003-10-07
termdate: 2003-10-13
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to heavy snowfall and lack of time
campsites: BC(03/10,5400m),C1(06/10,6100m),xxx(07-08/10,6400m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 5400m at lake west of West Col
  C1 at 6100m, 10m from West Col
  High point at C2 site.

  Late in getting to BC because of Lukla flights irregular due to bad weather (cloud, rain) and snow in pass enroute to BC. Pitched C2 on 7th and 8th Oct but did not sleep there, as weather started changing and retreated, slept in C1 during heavy snowfall period. Back to BC 9 Oct and 10 Oct 2 Sherpas and De Houwer went up to bring down C2 and C1 gear: climb finished because would take at least a weak for snow to settle and team did not have enough tme to wait. 

  Also 1 Sherpa with a Latvian independent climber had been on Baruntse and spoke of crevasses high on ridge which could not now be seen, so dangerous to go there [refers to Prem Lhakpa with Serbian climber in spring 2003?].


expid: BARU03303
peakid: BARU
year: 2003
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Ben Thrush
sponsor: Independent climber
ascent1: 60th w/Denmark
bcdate: 2003-10-10
smtdate: 2003-10-19
termdate: 2003-10-23
campsites: BC(10/10,5400m),C1(12/10,6100m),C2(18/10,6400m),Smt(19/10)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC at normal site by lake west of West Col
  C1 just at northeast side of West Col
  C2 near start of SE Ridge.

  Climbed with Danes.


expid: BARU03304
peakid: BARU
year: 2003
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Denmark
leaders: Rasmus Brynskov
sponsor: Independent team
ascent1: 60th w/UK
approach: Lukla and eastward (not via Tumlingtar & westward as planned)
bcdate: 2003-10-11
smtdate: 2003-10-19
termdate: 2003-10-23
campsites: BC(11/10,5400m),C1(13/10,6100m),C2(18/10,6400m),Smt(19/10)
accidents: Brynskov mild altitude sickness briefly
achievment: 1st Danish summiters
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  BC at 5400m near lake west of West Col
  C1 at 6100m just above West Col
  C2 at 6400m on SE Ridge.

  Weather excelllent except wind at high altitude. Started to snow later afternoon of 23rd and all of 24th and 25th.


expid: BARU03305
peakid: BARU
year: 2003
route1: SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Johan Perrier
sponsor: Independent climber
bcdate: 2003-10-11
smtdate: 2003-10-13
termdate: 2003-10-16
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to report of deep snow
campsites: BC(11/10,5400m),C1(13/10,6100m),xxx(13/10,6100m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC at 5400m near lake west of West Col
  C1 at 6100m just above West Col.
  High point at C1.

  Perrier arrived at BC with Danes (Rasmus Brynskov and Lone Mikkelsen) and went to C1 and back to BC with them on 14 Oct. Austrian-Belgium expedition reported there was deep snow higher on Baruntse and he didn't want to wait a week for conditions to improve, so he left the mountain.

  Mikkelsen thinks he wanted to hurry back to France because of his girl friend.


expid: BARU03306
peakid: BARU
year: 2003
route1: SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Benoit Profit
sponsor: Atalante Baruntse Expedition
ascent1: 61st
bcdate: 2003-10-30
smtdate: 2003-11-07
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2003-11-11
campsites: BC(30/10,5400m),C1(04/11,6200m),C2(06/11,6500m),Smt(07/11)
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  BC at new small lake west of W Col
  C1 at West Col
  C2 at 2 hours from start of SE Ridge.

  For summit push Profit wanted to start from C2, but wind too strong, so waited till 7:00 am to leave C2 and at 7:30 am wind stopped till reached top. Ridge itself very narrow; very cold (-15 degrees at BC). On 8th Nov again bad wind. On top 11:30 am and leader to C2 while other summiters in C2 because too tired to go on and Sherpa summiters went to BC for night of 7th. Fixed 150m to West Col and 200 before SE Ridge and 250m on ridge. All returned to BC 8th Nov.

  Cheruy spent all the time in BC becasue of mild chest infection.

  Marquis went no higher than C1 (71 years old and had no ambition to climb higher).

  Kaltenmark stopped his ascent at C2 because his feet were cold in inadequate boots.


expid: BARU03307
peakid: BARU
year: 2003
route1: SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Sandra Spiesser
sponsor: Independent climber
approach: Lukla->Mera Peak->Baruntse BC
bcdate: 2003-10-22
smtdate: 2003-11-01
termdate: 2003-11-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to the cook and all food was gone with other members
campsites: BC(22/10,5350m),C1(01/11,6100m),xxx(01/11,6100m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at 6100m  (Sherpa was very cold & too much snow)
  High point at 6100m.

  Sherpa:
    Thilen Sherpa, 35 year old, Makalu region, 8 times Everest


expid: BARU03308
peakid: BARU
year: 2003
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Richard Beaudry, Gary Cyr
sponsor: Independent team
bcdate: 2003-10-23
smtdate: 2003-10-29
termdate: 2003-11-02
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(23/10,5450m),ABC(28/10,5900m),xxx(29/10,6000m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  near lake west of West Col
  ABC on glacier at start of steep section below West Col
  High point at steep section of glacier below West Col.

  On 29 Oct tried to go to West Col to establish C1 there, but snow that day, too difficult, "draining out energy," so back to BC and waited for snow to stabilize and others to join effort to go higher. But French had only just arrived and in no hurry to start climbing. No more time to wait and climb, so decided 1 Nov to abandon climb.


expid: BARU03310
peakid: BARU
year: 2003
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Frank Homburg
sponsor: Baruntse Expedition 2003
bcdate: 2003-10-24
smtdate: 2003-10-24
termdate: 2003-10-29
termnote: Abandoned at 5400m due to dangerous snow conditions
othersmts: Island Peak after Baruntse
campsites: BC(24/10,5400m),xxx
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 5400m near lake west of West Col
  No climbing above BC
  High point at BC.

  Arrived at BC in afternoon of 24 Oct and that night started snowfall which went on continously for 48 hours and dumped 70 cms of snow at BC. 27th afternoon 7 Dutch trekkers with about 15 porters coming from Makalu BC (got into trouble between Sherpani Col and West Col and stayed there 2 nights). 2 Germans went up a small hill and saw this big group below West Col moving very slowly and clearly in trouble; Austrians (Gerhard S) went to them with teas while Miss Neidl prepared camp ground for them. From hill (100m high) saw snow conditions ahead not good, snow not settled in. 0 degrees C cold all day and saw avalanching enroute to West Col. 29th waited one day for Amical trekking group to arrive, but it didn't so on 29th Germans left BC. Had been some avalanching on the way to West Col 27th Oct. Decided to abandon climb on 27th because of dangerous snow conditions and not enough time to wait a week for improvement.


expid: BARU03309
peakid: BARU
year: 2003
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Gerhard Feichtenschlager
sponsor: Austrian Baruntse Expedition
countries: Germany
bcdate: 2003-10-23
smtdate: 2003-10-28
termdate: 2003-10-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(23/10,5350m),xxx(28/10,6000m)
agency: Everest Journeys
routememo:
  BC at 50m from shore of lake west of West Col
  High point below West Col

  Snowed 24-26th steady snowfall; at least 1m at BC and at least 1.5m at 6000m before West Col. Had waited for snow to settle, when tried to go up on 28th, but snow so deep, decided too dangerous to proceed. 

  Did help a Dutch trekking group which could hardly walk to reach BC and returned to BC at 9:00 pm.


expid: CHOY03335
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Hooman Aprin
sponsor: American Cho Oyu 2003
bcdate: 2003-09-12
smtdate: 2003-10-05
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2003-10-09
campsites: BC(12/09),ABC(14/09,5700m),C1(19/09,6100m),C2(20/09,7100m),Smt(05/10)
accidents: Aprin stomach trouble; Gavin very high pulse
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  C2 bid by Aprin, Johnson and Pazirandeh and 3 Sherpas: left at 11:00 pm on 4 Oct and Aprin at about 7300m with stomach trouble so he and Nima Temba Sherpa turned back at about 1:00 am and return to C2. Others on up but Thundu Sherpa (Nima's brother) also turned at 7400m because toes too cold. Johnson, Pazirandeh and Tamtin Sherpa on top at 12:30 pm of 5th and back to C2 5:00 and 6:00 pm (Johnson at 6:00 pm, tired and no water to drink). At top found prayer flags and saw Everest. 

  Gavin went to C1 four times, but each time got very high pulse rate, so no higher.


expid: CHOY03301
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Michael Roberts
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Cho Oyu 2003
countries: Australia, France, USA
bcdate: 2003-09-06
smtdate: 2003-09-27
smttime: 0740
termdate: 2003-09-30
campsites: BC(06/09),ABC(09/09,5500m),C1(15/09,6300m),C2(19/09,7000m),C3(26/09,7400m),Smt(27/09)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Left C3 at 2:10 am NST on top 7:40-9:20 am, returned to C2 at 12:00 and 5:30 pm (Baldry and Gomes got retinal hemorrhage from altitude and were very slow descending with Staples and Roberts short-roping them down from about 8000m to C3). Saw Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, etc. 

  Konrath left expedition 18 Sept because of his daughter's accident in US. 
  Staples left 29 Sept because of his mother's death.

  Sherpas: 
    Pasang Tenzing, Phortse, 21/1/78, Everest X3
    Phu Tashi, Pangboche, 1973, Everest X4
    Lhakpa Dorje, Sanam, Solu, 1960
    Chuldim


expid: CHOY03302
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: Brazil
leaders: Paulo Coelho
sponsor: Independent team
bcdate: 2003-09-05
smtdate: 2003-09-27
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2003-09-30
campsites: BC(05/09),ABC(06/09,5800m),C1(12/09,6200m),C2(19/09,7100m),C3(21/09,7500m),Smt(27/09)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  23 Sept 2 Coelhos left C3 3:30 am NST; reached summit plateau 2:00 pm, but very cold and windy (wind blew tracks away), so turned back to C3 at 5:30 pm. 25 Sept to C2. 24 Sept Mrs Coelho to C1 because not strong enough to try again now. 

  26 Sept Paulo Coelho to C3 and 27 Sept Paulo Coelho with many other teams to top. Left C3 3:30 am and on top 10:00 am (on top with many summiters but arrived alone). Saw Lhotse, Everest, etc with no clouds; spent one hour on top enjoying the "fantastic" view, thanking god to be in "a nice place" and taking pictures. Returned to C3 1:30 pm, down to C2 after rest at 3:30 pm.


expid: CHOY03303
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Eric Larson
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Cho Oyu Expedition 2003
countries: Canada
approach: Ktm->Lhasa->Tingri->CBC
bcdate: 2003-09-01
smtdate: 2003-09-24
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2003-09-29
campsites: BC(01/09,4700m),ABC(05/09,5700m),C1(08/09,6500m),C2(16/09,7080m),C3(24/09,7400m),Smt(24-25/09)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  24 Sept - 0:15 am from C2, summit 1:30 pm, stayed 30 minutes, no other expeditions,
            13 knots wind from Everest. Left 1 picture on the summit. 
            Met with the other members at C3 at 3 pm, C2 at 5:15 pm.

  25 Sept - 5:30 am from C3, summit 12:00, stayed 30 minutes, bad weather
            conditions, found the picture left on 24th, C2 at 5 pm.
            
  Very clean mountain and summit.

  Daniel Buck, ABC, left to KTM 10 Sept

  Andy Tyson, Holton Hunter, Tsering Dorje arrived C3 24 Sept, stayed there, summited on 24th.

  Eric Larson, Solmonson, Lhakpa summited on 25th, returned to C2. 

  MacDonald only to C2 16 Sept 03

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Rita Sherpa, sirdar, Thami, 37 years 
    Tshering Dorje Sherpa, Kharikhola, 33 years
    Dil Bahadur, cook


expid: CHOY03304
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Jay Sieger
sponsor: Independent climber
approach: KTM->Zangmu->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2003-09-07
smtdate: 2003-09-27
termdate: 2003-10-03
campsites: BC(07/09,4900m),ABC(09/09,5700m),C1(11/09,6400m),C2(18/09,7100m),C3(26/09,7600m),Smt(27/09)
agency: Asian Trekking/Iceland
routememo:
  Started 2 am from C3, summited 10:00 NST, stayed at the summit for 20 minutes. Met Amical Greek, Belgium. Pasang made a puja at the summit. Returned to C2 at 5 pm (rest at C2).

  BC at 5300m mid-camp 08 Sept.
  C1 at 6400m 


expid: CHOY03305
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: Australia
leaders: Michael Parker
sponsor: Independent climber (Monterosa permit)
approach: Zangmu->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2003-09-10
smtdate: 2003-10-05
smttime: 0945
termdate: 2003-10-07
campsites: BC(10/09,5000m),ABC(14/09,5700m),C1(15/09,6400m),C2(17/09,7100m),Smt(05/10)
agency: Arun Treks (Monterosa Treks pmt)
routememo:
  Started from C2 at 1:45 Chinese time (11:30 am NST), summit at 12:00 (9:45 am NST), stayed for 30-40 minutes, returned to C2 at 3-4 pm (about 1:00 pm NST).

  Met 1 Spanish on the summit and 2 more summited after him.


expid: CHOY03306
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: New Zealand
leaders: James Milne
sponsor: Independent climber
bcdate: 2003-09-14
smtdate: 2003-09-27
termdate: 2003-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to fierce winds forecast for next several days
campsites: BC(14/09),ABC(16/09,5700m),C1(18/09,6400m),C2(26/09,7100m),xxx(27/09,7200m)
accidents: Pemba Rinzi's altitude sickness
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Tried for top from C2 on 27th with Sherpa but when got above C2 Milne decided not to keep on going up, so returned to C2 (would take another 6-8 hours to top). Wanted to try for top from C3 but on 27th Pemba Rinzi Sherpa got serious altitude sickness, so down on 28th to ABC. Returned C1 on 1st Oct, but forecast was for strong wind for 2nd, 3rd and 4th for 100 km/h wind; Milne to 6600m on 1st and Sherpa to C2 to clear gear and take down to ABC and climb finished. Forecasts were correct.

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Rinzi, Kharikhola, Everest X5


expid: CHOY03307
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: Australia
leaders: Ian Hibbert
sponsor: Independent climber
bcdate: 2003-09-02
smtdate: 2003-09-25
termdate: 2003-10-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to Hilbert's illness
campsites: BC(02/09),ABC(06/09,5700m),C1(11/09,6400m),xxx(25-26/09,6600m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Hibbert got to C1 4 times but never higher than 6600m because of illness: had chest infection the entire time and altitude sickness made him vomit a lot; he lost a lot of weight.


expid: CHOY03308
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Malcolm Moore
sponsor: Independent climber (Monterosa permit)
bcdate: 2003-09-10
smtdate: 2003-09-17
termdate: 2003-10-07
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to very cold feet
campsites: BC(10/09,5000m),ABC(14/09,5700m),C1(15/09,6400m),C2(17/09,7100m),xxx(17/09,7100m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Moore and Michael Parker climbed together, same dates, same camps, but when Parker went up from C3 to top, Moore left C2 to go down because his boots were inadequate for such low temperatures and he feared frostbite. Went straight down to ABC same day and his climb finished.


expid: CHOY03310
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Cho Oyu Expedition 2003
countries: Australia, Denmark, Japan, Lebanon, Lithuania, UK, USA
bcdate: 2003-09-01
smtdate: 2003-09-21
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2003-09-24
campsites: BC(01/09,4800m),ABC(05/09,5200m),C1(12/09,6400m),C2(28/09,7100m),C3(20/09,7400m),Smt(21,27/09)
accidents: Nothing except Mansfield's slight lung infection
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  Summit groups: 

  21 Sept left C3 4:30 am, on top 9:45-11:30 am and all down to C1, ABC by Brice and Sherpas. These summit members left expedition 24 Sept since this climb finished.

  27 Sept from C3 3:30 am, on top 8:30-9:30, all down to C1 except Sherpas to C2 to clear gear from mountains. Summiters left C3 3:30 am, on top 8:30 to 9:30 am, returned to C2 at 2:00 pm except Mr & Mrs Gambi and Goldstein, who went on down to C1 at 7:00 pm (all Sherpas stayed in C2).

  Oxygen used by all summit members except Jensen who used none at all; others used it from C3 to top to C3 or lower; 21 Sept Sherpas used none; 27 Sept Sherpas used it intermittently.

  Sherpas: 
    Lobsang Temba, 23/5/68, Khumjung, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X3
    Karsang Namgel,24/8/71, Thami, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X3
    Tenzing Gyazu, 1956, Khumjung, Manaslu X1

  Tibetans: 
    Narwang
    Tashi Phinzo, 
    Tshering
    Tashi Tshering
    
    No  previous 8000ers; hired from Tibet Mountaineering Association


expid: CHOY03311
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Yoshitomi Okura
sponsor: Japanese Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 2003-09-08
smtdate: 2003-09-27
termdate: 2003-10-04
campsites: BC(08/09),ABC(12/09,8700m),C1(23/09,6400m),C2(25/09,7100m),C3(26/09,7800m),Smt(27-28/09)
accidents: K. Suzuki badly frostbitten fingers of both hands on summit from taking off gloves
agency: Rolwaling Trek
routememo:
  27 Sept summit party left C3 3:30 am and on top 9:30 to 11:00 am NST and returned to C2 at 4:00 to 5:00 pm.

  28 Sept party left C3 3:00 am and on top 8:10 to 10:30 am and down to C3 12:30-3:00 pm.

  1st party saw Everest: 2nd party were in clouds, so saw no view, but many prayer flags there.

  Oxygen used by all members sleeping in C2 and all the times till return to C2 and in C2 by both climbing groups. Used by Sherpas in both parties sleeping in C3 only; not while climbing.

  Sherpa Summiters:
    27 Sept - Tenzing/Tenzi, 22/8/64, Thami, Everest X7
              Pasang Kitar, 25/2/79, Beding, Everest X4
              Phur Gyalzen, 14/4/70, Thami/Yilajung, Everest X1
              Lhakpa Nuru, 3/10/60, Pare, 1st 8000er
             
    Sept 28 - Dawa Tshering/Chhiri, 19/11/66, Thami, Evereset X6, Cho Oyu X1
              Nima Nurbu, 20/2/80, Thami, Everest X1 (aka Nima Nurbu Lama)


expid: CHOY03312
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Takashi Shirota
sponsor: Independent climber
bcdate: 2003-09-03
smtdate: 2003-09-26
smttime: 1215
termdate: 2003-10-03
campsites: BC(03/09),ABC(05/09,5700m),C1(09/09,6400m),C2(14/09,7100m),C3(25/09,7500m),Smt(26/09)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Reached summit in clouds and so no view. Believes he reached summit because he followed footprints till they stopped, but found no prayer flags or anything else there.


expid: CHOY03313
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: S Korea
leaders: Min Sang-Ki
sponsor: 2003 Korea Yeosu Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 2003-08-26
smtdate: 2003-09-16
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2003-09-26
campsites: BC(26/08),ABC(31/08,5600m),C1(06/09,6200m),C2(13/09,6900m),C3(14/09,7400m),Smt(16,22/09)
accidents: Only mild altitude sickness by Youn & Lee Jeong-Bom
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  16 Sept 5:30 am Ryoo and Dawa left for top; arrived at top 4:00 pm (NST), saw Everest, Lhotse, Makalu. Went up together with Mrs Kono and 2 Sherpas. Returned to C3 8:30 pm; no oxygen used by Ryoo and Dawa Chhiri.

  22 Sept Lee and Dakipa left C3 2:35 am and on top 9:30 am (saw Everest, Lhotse, Makalu) and returned to C3 12:30 pm - no oxygen used. Fixed almost all ropes on mountain; with Mrs Kono Sherpa. 22nd summiters were 2nd team to top that day. On 22nd Lee saw circle of Lama's flags; Ryoo saw only snow on top. Ryoo encountered snow on plateau up to his knees and took 2 weeks from arrival at summit plateau to top; by the time Lee went to top, enough people had been before him that took only one hour.

  Summit Sherpas: 
    Dakipa Sherpa, 7/67, Kurima, Cho Oyu 16/9/00
    Dawa Chhiri/Chhiri, 36 years, Kurima, Makalu 23/5/99, Everest 20/5/00


expid: CHOY03314
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Abdou Martin
sponsor: Terres d'Adventure Cho Oyu Expedition
countries: Netherlands, Poland
bcdate: 2003-09-14
smtdate: 2003-09-26
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2003-09-30
campsites: BC(14/09),ABC(16/09,5700m),C1(18/09,6400m),C2(25/09,7100m),C3(26/09,7400m),Smt(26-27/09)
accidents: Toussaint bad frostbite (got it on fixed ropes)
agency: Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
routememo:
  26 Sept summit party left C2 at midnight of 25-26th and on top 10:30 to 11:00 am NST and down to C2 at 3:00 pm to 4:00 pm.

  27 Sept party left C3 at 2:30 am and on top 10:30 am and C2 at 6:00 am.

  Both parties saw Everest.

  Arnauld De Fouchier got sick in Lhasa and never went to BC.
  Leader never went above C1 because of bronchitis and mild altitude sickness.
  Bruno also only to C1.

  Sherpa summiters:

  26 Sept 
    Nima Nuru, Thami, 18/6/74, Everest X2
    Nawang Dorje, Beding, 27/4/65, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X2
    Nima Dorje Tenzi, Beding, 24/8/80, Everest X1
    Pema Chhiring, Beding, 17/12/83, Everest X1, Lhotse X1

  27 Sept
    Nawang Tenzing, Beding, 11/5/67, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X3
    Nima Gyalzen, Beding, 16/5/76, Everest X4


expid: CHOY03315
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Stephane Schaffter
sponsor: Mountain Adventure Swiss Cho Oyu-Xixabangma Expedition
countries: France
bcdate: 2003-09-26
smtdate: 2003-10-16
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2003-10-21
othersmts: Attempted Xixabangma
campsites: BC(26/09),ABC(29/09,5700m),C1(07/10,6400m),C2(14/10,7000m),Smt(16/10)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  15-16 Oct 5 people left C2 at 1:00 am NST for top: 3 summiters and Schaffter and Favre turned back at 7400m because coughing so much she couldn't go on. All down to C1 to sleep ABC 17th. 

  Pasquier went from top to C1 by ski (he arrive C1 5:00 pm after 1 hour stop in C2). 

  Team went to Tingri 21 Oct; arrived Xixa BC 26 Oct, but a lot of snow on mountain so went only to 5800m on 29 Oct to have a look and decided too much snow meaning avalanche danger and left BC 1 Nov.

  On Cho Oyu, Pitteloud went twice to C1 but not really well and lacked motivation after death of Greek team's leader from altitude sickness. 

  Robert Wehren fell into a crevasse going on a side trip to Nangpa La, cut his head and hurt his shoulder on 2 Oct, so he and his son Julian Wehran left expedition 10 Oct and did no climbing. Team was on mountain alone towards end of a climb.

  Nepalese on Cho Oyu summit: 
    Ang Sone, 21/7/77, Thami Og, Apa's son, Everest X2
    Krishna Bahadur Tamang, 25/9/68, Kanku, Solu, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1


expid: CHOY03316
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Jose Maria Tey de Salvador
sponsor: Independent team (Monterosa permit)
approach: KTM->Zangmu->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2003-09-08
smtdate: 2003-10-05
smttime: 1115
termdate: 2003-10-07
campsites: BC(08/09,5000m),ABC(12/09,5700m),C1(14/09,6400m),C2(26/09,7100m),C3(05/10,7500m),Smt(05/10)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Started from C2 at 1:30 am (CST); summit:
    Madariaga at 11:15 - 2 h
    Gibernau  at 12:40 - 1 h
   
  down to C2:  
    Madariaga at 15:00 pm (12:45 NST)
    Gibernau  at 16:00 pm NST

  Madariaga was the first on the summit that day; after him ws Michael Parker, then Gibernau was Spanish and one more Spanish - 4 people on that day.

  Tey de Salvador only up to C3.


expid: CHOY03317
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Henry Todd
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Cho Oyu Expedition
countries: Canada, France, USA
bcdate: 2003-09-03
smtdate: 2003-09-21
termdate: 2003-09-26
campsites: BC(03/09),ABC(06/09,5700m),C1(11/09,6300m),C2(15/09,7000m),C3(20/09,7300m),Smt(21,27/09)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  21 Sept members on top 10:30 am NST; left C2 at 2:00 am and returned to C2 at 4:00 pm; "fanastic" weather.

  27 Sept on top 10:00 am; left from C3 at 4:00 am and some back to ABC, some to C2 and to C3.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Pasang Nuru, aka Ang Nuru, 22 years old, Pangboche, Everest X1
    Pasang Dawa, aka Pa Dawa, Panda, 18/1/77, Pangboche, Everest X3, Lhotse X1, 
      Cho Oyu X1
    Pasang (Tibetan), Nyalam, Cho Oyu 16/5/02

  Oxygen: 
    none by Andrieux, Wade, Sherpas and Tibetan; 
    members who summited from C2 (on 21st) used it from C2 to top to C2; 
    27th members usage details Todd doesn't know.

  Nelson stayed one night in BC and left with no climbing.
  Joshi left about 17 Sept, no motivation.


  Saunders by email - 18 Feb 2004, Feb 21, 2004, Feb 23, 2004

  Oxygen used for climbing only by Davey, Gole, Winkworth and Saunders; none by Wade, Andrieux, Sherpa and Tibetan. 

  Saunders group summited between 08:00 and 9:30 am.

  Saunders guided his own group, but used the "excellent" infrastructure of Todd's expedition and were listed on Todd's permit. On Saunders team were:

    Saunders, Victor
    Andrieus, Guisippe (Andrieux, Philippe)
    Boulanger, Joseph
    Burlet, Philipp
    Burr, Charles
    Burr, Oliver
    Gole, Veronique (Andrieux, Veronique Gole)

  On Tim Calder's team (also using same arrangement as Saunders' group):

    Calder, Tim
    Joshi, Rajiv
    Oswald, Iain
    Pomeret, John
    Wade, Ian

  On Henry Todd's team were:

    Henry Todd
    Botha, Andries
    Davey, Michael
    Nagel, Marc
    Nelson, Gerald
    Romersa, John
    Thomas, Scott
    Winkworth, Mark

  Saunders also said that Joseph Boulanger was the same person as Antoine Boulanger (Putha Hiunchuli Autumn 2000, Baruntse Autumn 2001). Complete name is Antoine Joseph Boulanger.


expid: CHOY03318
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Michael Hamill
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Cho Oyu Expedition 2003
countries: Spain
approach: KTM->Lhasa->Shigatse->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2003-08-31
smtdate: 2003-09-26
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2003-09-29
campsites: BC(31/08,4500m),ABC(04/09,5200m),C1(09/09,6200m),C2(15/09,7000m),C3(25/09,7500m),Smt(26/09)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  ABC - Goodwin on 5 Sept altitude sickness, stayed in ABC
  C1  - to ABC on 10-11 Sept
  C2  - to ABC on 16 Sept
  C3  - 27 Sept in C2.

  First team to top on this date. Started from C3 at 2 am NST.
  Summit at: Christoffersen - 10:00 at Summit, on top 30 min, in C2 2 pm
             Ford, Hamill, Olito and 3 Sherpas - 11:00 at summit, on top 30 min, 
               in C2 3:30 pm

  Met 3 French and 3 Sherpas going up at 11:30.
  Himalayan Experiences and Japanese fixed lines before and after them.

  Burd, Goodwin and Piedra left BC on 20 Sept.
  Weinberg left on 25 Sept.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Ang Pasang, Pangboche, 11/2/66, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2
    Danuru (Dawa Nuru) Sherpa, 26
    Phu Nuru Sherpa, 24, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X3

  Booher   -  C2 15 Sept
  Burd     -  C1 10 Sept, BC 20 Sept
  Adam     -  Summit 26 Sept at 10:00
  Darnow   -  C2 15 Sept 
  Ford     -  Summit 26 Sept at 11:00
  Goodwin  -  ABC 05 Sept, left BC on 20 Sept
  Hamill   -  Summit 26 Sept about 11:00
  Harter   -  C1 on 10 Sept
  Madison  -  C2 [and 8000m on 26 Sept]
  Merle    -  C2 [and 8000m on 26 Sept]
  Norris   -  C2 15 Sept
  Olito    -  Summit 26 Sept about 11:00
  Piedra   -  C1 10 Sept, left BC on 20 Sept
  Seed     -  C2 15 Sept [and 8000m on 26 Sept]
  Weinberg -  C2 23 Sept, left BC 25 Sept (altitude sickness)


expid: CHOY03319
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Takaharu Hayashi
sponsor: Karang Kurung Mountaineering Club Cho Oyu Expedition 2003
approach: Lhasa->BC
bcdate: 2003-09-01
smtdate: 2003-09-21
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2003-09-25
campsites: BC(01/09),ABC(04/09,5500m),C1(11/09,6200m),C2(19/09,7200m),C3(20/09,7400m),Smt(21/09)
accidents: Tetsugo Oketa altitude problem and spent time in ABC; Sato also altitude sick and snowblind
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  Summit team of 4 members and 3 Sherpas left C3 for top 2:30 am (NST) and on top 10:00 am together; saw Everest from top. Return to C3 at 2:00 pm, down to C2 at 3:30 pm for night.

  Oxygen: 
    Sherpas none
    4 members: 
      2 women sleeping in C2 and all way to top, and to top in C2 
        (Sato also C2 to ABC (altitude sick and snowblindness) 
      2 men: Yamashita C2 to C3, climbing to top to C2

  Summit Sherpas: 
    Temba Wangdi, Makalu-9, 29/1/60, Cho Oyu X1
    Lhakpa Sherpa, Makalu-9, 1st 8000er (brother of Pasang Gelji)
    Pasang Gelji, Makalu-9, 4/7/67, 1st 8000er (brother of Lhakpa)


expid: CHOY03320
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Roman Dobrajc
sponsor: Independent team
bcdate: 2003-09-02
smtdate: 2003-09-27
smttime: 0945
termdate: 2003-10-03
campsites: BC(02/09),ABC(06/09,5700m),C1(08/09,6400m),C2(17/09,7100m),C3(26/09,7500m),Smt(27/09)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  "Wonderful weather" on summit day. Both members left C3 27 Sept 3:30 am NST. Perko to 7600m, too cold and returned C3, while Dobrajc on to top at 9:45 am, saw Everest and Lhotse.

  Perko slept 27th at ABC, but Dobrajc in C2, which he reached with Paulo Coelho. Dobrajc used oxygen in C3 on night of 26-27th to top and to C3 only. Perko used no oxygen and probably for this season was too cold.

  On 27th 300 people queued to use fixed ropes.


expid: CHOY03321
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: Greece
leaders: Christos Barouchas
bcdate: 2003-09-13
smtdate: 2003-09-27
smttime: 1245
termdate: 2003-10-01
campsites: BC(13/09),ABC(14/09,5750m),C1(16/09,6400m),C2(19/09,7100m),Smt(27/09,05/10)
accidents: Barouchas death; Sona Dendu badly frostbitten big toes; Styllus mildly frostbitten nose
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  ABC at 5750m high camp
  C3  at 7500m had tent not slept in.

  Summit party of 27 Sept left C2 for top at 11:30 pm 26th, on top 12:45 pm, returned to C2 at 6:00 pm; saw Everest, Lhotse, etc.

  Summit party of 5 Oct left C2 at midnight, on top at 5:00 pm by Tsiantos and Pasang Gyalzen who then returned to C2 5:00 pm. Barouchas and Sona Dendu reached top at 6:00 pm, saw Everest, etc., then very strong wind blowing so had stayed one hour in tiny tent at 7500m. Barouchas climbing slowly because "not good condition," but would not listen to Sona Dendu's advice and insisted "very important" for him to get to summit. Barouchas reached Japanese tent at midnight with Sona Dendu, who says Barouchas was Ok, and who himself (Sona Dendu) went on down to C2 alone and reached C2 at 11:30 am with frostbitten toes. Barouchas arrived at C2 with a Japanese, whose tent he had stayed in at 12:30 pm 6th. Barouchas stayed in C2 for 2 hours, drinking water and tea, talking Ok; Mingma brought up a bottle of oxygen for him and at 1:30 pm, when it arrived, started to go down again with all of the summit team, but descended only, 100m, stopped, was exhausted. Tent was brought there and he was put inside it, but suddenly he didn't move or talk. Tsiantos went outside tent to secure it and he he went back inside after 5-10 minutes, found Barouchas had no vital signs. 4 Sherpas brought body down the mountain, which was brought to KTM with members on 9 Oct and on 10 Oct was being flown to Greece.

  Teammates may stick to expedition's plan to go to Everest (south side) in spring 2004.


expid: CHOY03322
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: Russia
leaders: Sergei Petrov
sponsor: Angarsk Himalaya Expedition
approach: KTM->Zangmu->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2003-09-14
smtdate: 2003-10-05
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2003-10-09
campsites: BC(14/09,4700m),ABC(17/09,5700m),C1(19/09,6400m),C2(25/09,7100m),C3(27/09,7500m),Smt(05/10)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Started 3 Oct from C1. 4 Oct Efimov and Petrov reached 6300-6400m and decided to go back to C1. Naoumov and Vinogradski started from C2 at 8:40 Nepali time, C3 at 11:30, summited at 3 pm, to C2 at 5:30 pm.  One Norwegian woman was going down. C3 at 11:30 followed the Greek team. On the summit made pictures.

  Donskoy - only C1 19 Sept
  Efimov  - 6300-6400m
  Naoumov - summit
  Petrov  - 6300-6400m
  Vinogradski arrived BC on 17 Sept, C1 on 19th, C2 on 28th, summit on 5 Oct


expid: CHOY03323
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Shigeo Tamoi
sponsor: Independent climber
bcdate: 2003-09-03
smtdate: 2003-09-22
termdate: 2003-10-03
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(03/09),ABC(05/09,5700m),C1(12/09,6400m),C2(16/09,7100m),C3(21/09,7500m),xxx(22/09,7700m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Tried again for top 25 Sept from C1 but found his tent at C2 had been blow away, so climb finished. On 22 Sept got no higher than 7700m and turned back at 7700m because of deep snow.


expid: CHOY03324
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Naoto Iida
sponsor: Independent climber
bcdate: 2003-09-03
smtdate: 2003-09-15
termdate: 2003-10-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to third deposit of gear stolen
campsites: BC(02/09),ABC(06/09,5700m),C1(14/09,6300m),xxx(15/09,6900m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Highpoint at serac.

  3 times to C1, each time to 6900m and left deposit of gear. 1st time on Sept 15, birds took away his food and gear, 2nd time more gear depositied and down to ABC; again up to C1 and to deposit point and again gear gone stolen by someone who even took away his marker flag, so back to ABC and 3rd time to C1 and gear deposit point, but again gear gone so climb finished.


expid: CHOY03325
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiroshi Takagi
sponsor: Independent climber
bcdate: 2003-09-05
smtdate: 2003-10-03
termdate: 2003-10-08
termnote: Abandoned at 8100 due to cold hands and feet
campsites: BC(05/09),ABC(07/09,5700m),C1(14/09,6100m),C2(24/09,7000m),C3(02/10,7400m),xxx(03/10,8100m)
accidents: Frostbitten fingers (slight) and toes (more serious)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  On 25 Sept tried from C2 for top with Shiroba, but toes freezing from wet socks at yellow band at about 7500m so turned back to C2 to sleep and ABC ON 26th. 

  2nd attempt to reach summit on 3 Oct alone; blue sky above and snow blowing at lower altitude but as he left C3 at 5:00 for top, not blowing above him but he moved slowly and wind came up at 6:00 pm NST, sun was setting and he stopped at 8100m. Dug snow cave for shelter and went to sleep; forgot to put on his extra pair of mittens and at 3:00 am wake up with very cold hands and decided to save his hands by going down (feet seemed okay then). Returned to C3 on 4 Oct and his climb was finished because now he knew his toes were frozen. 

  He is a Seventh Day Adventist and did not climb on Saturdays, his Sabbath; just rested in his tent and read his Bible.


expid: CHOY03326
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Shinji Tamura
sponsor: Active Mountain Cho Oyu Expedition (on Brice permit)
bcdate: 2003-09-01
smtdate: 2003-09-27
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2003-09-30
campsites: BC(01/09),ABC(05/09),C1(11/09),C2(16/09),C3(26/09),Smt(27/09)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  Summit party left C3 3:30 am NST, on top 8:30 to 9:00 am and return to C2 at 2:30-3:30 pm.

  Oxygen used by all members except Kuraoka, who used none at all. Saito, Shiroi and Toshiriko Tamura used it sleeping in C2; sleeping in C3, climbing to top and down to C2; Shinji Tamura and Yoshida in C3 to top to C3; Sherpas used intermittently.

  All summiters saw Everest, etc from their summit.

  Sherpa summiters: 
    Chhiri, 2/6/73, Thamo, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1
    Phur Gyalzen, 3/10/73, Kharikhola, Everest X1

  This team was on Russell Brice's permit.


expid: CHOY03327
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Chizuko Kono
sponsor: Independent climber
bcdate: 2003-08-23
smtdate: 2003-09-16
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2003-09-20
campsites: BC(27/08),ABC(27/08,5700m),C1(03/09,6350m),C2(14/09,7015m),C3(15/09,7375m),Smt(16/09)
agency: Sherpa Summit Treks
routememo:
  From top saw Everest and Makalu; on top 4:00 pm; leave C3 5:30 am and returned to C3 9:00 pm to sleep.

  Kono used oxygen sleeping in C2 to top to C3 climbing and sleeping. 17th slept in C1. Returned to KTM 22 Sept.

  Summiters Sherpas:
    Pema Tenji, Cho Oyu X3, Everest X1
    Da Chhemba, Everest 22/5/03

  Tenji used oxygen to 8000m from C3, other Sherpa none, says Korean summiter Ryoo, who summited at same time as Kono's team (Ryoo spoke on 28 Sept).


expid: CHOY03328
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: Poland
leaders: Marcin Miotk
sponsor: Independent team (Monterosa permit)
approach: Zangmu->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2003-09-12
smtdate: 2003-09-23
smttime: 1045
termdate: 2003-10-07
campsites: BC(12/09,5000m),C1(11/09,6200m),C2(22/09,7000m),Smt(23/09),C3(04/10,7700m),Smt(05/10)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Bukowicka from C3 4 am to summit at 3 pm (12:45 pm NST), stayed 1 hour (cloudy); to C2 at 6 pm (3:45 NST) (was 1 Spanish climber Oiarzabal only at the same time on the summit).

  Baranowska from C3 at 9 am (6:45 am NST) to summit at 3:45 pm (13:30 pm NST), to C2 at 6-7 pm.

  Miotk from C2 at 3:30 am to summit at 1 pm (10:45 NST), to C2 at 5 pm (at the same time 5-6 people at the summit, Greek, American, Spanish).


expid: CHOY03329
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: Sweden
leaders: Niklas Hallstrom
sponsor: Independent climber
approach: Zangmu->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2003-09-12
smtdate: 2003-10-05
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2003-10-07
campsites: BC(12/09,5000m),ABC(14/09,5700m),C1(16/09,6400m),C2(19/09,7100m),C3(26/09,7500m),Smt(05/10)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Started from C3 at 10:40 about 8:30 am Chinese time, summit at 3:45 (1:30 pm NST) together with Polish climber Kinga Baranowska. Stayed 15 minutes at the summit. 8:30 pm = 6:15 pm NST

  Snowboard descent from summit to C2.


expid: CHOY03330
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Marcel Kraaz
sponsor: Amical Alpin Cho Oyu Expedition 2003
countries: Switzerland
approach: KTM->Zangmu->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2003-09-05
smtdate: 2003-09-27
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2003-10-03
agency: Thamserku Trekking
campsites:
  BC(05/09,5000m),ABC(08/09,5700m),C1(11/09,6400m),C2(15/09,7000m),C3(27/09,7400m),Smt(27/09),C4(28/09,7900m)

routememo:
  Started from C2 2 am, Nepal time summit at 9:30 (Goltz), at 10:00 (Kraaz and Paletta at same time as Japanese, Adventure Consultants, International Exp from Asian Trek). 50-60 passengers -- Greek 2 members. Stayed at the summit 30 minutes.

  To C2 at 1 pm Kraaz & Paletta;
  to C2 at 5 pm Goltz (stayed in C3)

  Chuldim Sherpa, 23/07/1964, Khumjung, went up to 7900m.

  Goltz summited
  Heidt left BC on 8 Sept due to bronchitis (went up only to 5300m interim camp)
  Kraaz summited
  Paletta summited
  Schulz to 7900m on 28 Sept to C2 with Chuldim
  Zuth to C2 on 19 Sept, left BC on 20th mild altitude sickness.


expid: CHOY03331
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Jesus Gonzalez
sponsor: Sanga Cho Oyu Expedition
countries: Mexico
bcdate: 2003-09-07
smtdate: 2003-09-23
smttime: 1245
termdate: 2003-10-07
campsites: BC(07/09),ABC(09/09,5700m),C1(12/09,6400m),C2(22/09,7100m),Smt(23/09,05/10)
achievment: Oiarzabal 1st summiter of 8000ers 20 times
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Few members reached C3 because very strong winds; in fact only 3 above C2. Juanito went to C2 13 Sept and to C3 22nd Sept and 23rd top with Polish Sylvia. Left C3 at 4:00 to summit; were flags on top in clouds so no view; down to ABC.

  Other members to C2 28 Sept but again strong winds. 3 Oct decided no more attempts possible. Most members not strong enough by then, but Oiarzabal wanted to become first person to reach summits of the 8000ers 20 times, so on 5 Oct he, Peracta and Puyel went to top. Oiarzabal on summit at noon and others 2:00 pm; they left C2 for top at 2:00 am, spent 2 hours at C3 because so cold (-30 degrees). Oiarzabal returned to C2 at 4:00 pm; Peralta to help him descend.


expid: CHOY03332
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: Austria
leaders: Gottfried Bartholner
sponsor: Independent climber
approach: KTM->Zhangmu->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2003-09-04
smtdate: 2003-09-23
termdate: 2003-10-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7020m due to bad weather conditions
othersmts: 5900m to the right of BC
campsites: BC(04/09,5300m),ABC(05/09,5700m),C1(16/09,6444m),xxx(23/09,7020m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  ABC at ice lake camp
  C1 went down to ABC.

  21 Sept - overnight in C1 crevasse under C1
  23 Sept - 4 Sherpas behind him fixing lines

  Started at 11:00 am Nepalese time from C1, met 1 Japanese (gained very good experience and will try to come back).


expid: CHOY03333
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: Norway
leaders: Rolf Bae
sponsor: Independent team
bcdate: 2003-09-27
smtdate: 2003-10-03
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2003-10-07
othersmts: Attempted Xixabangma
campsites: BC(27/09),ABC(28/09,5700m),C1(01/10,6400m),C2(03/10,7100m),Smt(03,05/10)
achievment: 1st Norwegian woman atop 8000er
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  Came to Cho Oyu from unsuccessful attempt on Xixabangma. Bae went to summit on 3 Oct entirely alone; left C1 at 7:00 pm NST for top, on top 7:00 am 3 Oct and down to ABC 6:30 pm. Very windy and visibility bad with snow being blown around but found tracks ended and prayer flags.

  Skog left C2 1:00 am of 5 Oct and on top 10:20 am and back to C2 about 12:00 noon. At top saw small prayer flag and Juanito Oiarazbal was on top too.


expid: CHOY03334
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Arnaldo Millesimi
sponsor: Himalaya 2003 Cho Oyu
bcdate: 2003-09-14
smtdate: 2003-09-27
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2003-10-05
agency: Thamserku Trekking
campsites:
  Giovanni.BC(14/09),ABC(16/09,5700m),C1(17/09,6400m),C2(19/09,7100m),Smt(27/09);other-members.BC(18/09),ABC(21/09,5700m),C1(26/09,6400m),xxx(27/09,6700m)

routememo:
  26 Sept Diego returned to C2 and from C2 alone on 2:30 NST and on top 10:30 am, saw Everest; on top with Matthias Paletta; returned to C2 about 2:30 pm wth one eye blinded by wind. 25th to ABC.

  Other 2 members to C1 but did not slept there. 26 Sept again C1 and slept there and 27th to 6700m as per acclimatization plan and to ABC. Planned to start up 1st Oct but winds bad. 2nd Oct up from ABC and slept C1 and again winds "terrible" and broke tent, so now impossible to continue up. 3 Oct down to ABC and climb finished; one Sherpa with them in final attempt.


expid: DANG03301
peakid: DANG
year: 2003
nation: Germany
leaders: Rainer Kogler
sponsor: Adventure Geo Treks Danga Expedition
termnote: Did not reach mountain
agency: Adventure Geo Treks
routememo:
  Did no climbing at all.

  Went to Pangpema intending to climb Drohmo first, then Danga but after arrival 30 Oct at Pangpema, a Kangchenjunga Glacier trekker with them got serious cerebral edema, so down to Khanbachen village, but still sick so further down to Ghunsa 3 Nov. Now no time for climbing any mountain. 

  Met Austrians from Drohmo, who said snow too deep for climbing, so abandoned plans and returned to KTM without reaching a BC for any mountain.


  24 Nov 2003

  Tourism ministry official said no Austrian expedition given permit for Drohmo.


expid: EVER03301
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Wally Berg
sponsor: Berg Adventures 2003
bcdate: 2003-09-11
smtdate: 2003-11-02
termdate: 2003-11-05
termnote: Abandoned at 8748m due to high wind
campsites: BC(11/09,5350m),C1(21/09,6100m),C2(22/09,6400m),C3(06/10,7400m),C4(01/11,7900m),xxx(02/11,8748m)
accidents: Burger's frostbitten toes; Nima Tashi mild concussion in avalanche
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  BC at 5350
  C1 at 6100m top of Icefall
  C2 at 6400m West Cwm
  C3 at 7400m Lhotse Face
  C4 at 7900m South Col
  xxx at 8748m at South Summit.

  Moved to C3 intending to make summit bid; got to C3 20 Oct: high winds and went down: this trip by all 5 members while Sherpas stayed in  C2. Had been down to Pangboche about 15 Oct to rest.

  Carney decided not suitable or safe enough for complete ski descent because of snow accumalation, avalanche danger and wind strength, she lost motivation to wait; she left BC 23rd; Johnson also left on 23rd to return home for personal and business reasons.

  Snow storm lasted from 22nd to 26 Oct, then had to let snow settle and stop avalanching. Left BC again on 29th and got to C4 on 1 Nov, first time members had gotten to C4, but Sherpas had been before to dump gear. From C4 in summit bid were Berg, Burger, Porter and 4 Sherpas. Left C4 11:45 pm of 1 Nov and got to South Summit at 8:00 am; at South Summit "blasted by very abrupt strong winds" and winds from South Summit up were clearly going to be a big challenge" and Berg decided they must go down. When returned to C4 11:00-2:00 pm (Porter moving slowly) and found 3 tents torn apart, so descended to C2 (stopping at C3 only briefly to rest). Berg and Porter got to C2 at 10:00 pm while Burger and 4 Sherpas at 4:00 pm. Porter very tired and moving very slowly; aged 61 years. Now climb finished.

  Berg regarding only team now on mountain. "We were lucky and privileged" with only ourselves to rely on" when there were not hordes of others and tents too as in spring '03. "This was really mountaineering."

  Fixed no rope above South Col by plan since too small group and would have slowed them down.

  Oxygen: Berg, Burger and Porter from C3 to C4, in C4, to South Summit, down to South Col; 4 Sherpas in summit bid in C4 to S Summit to South Col.

  Burger's 4 frostbitten toes may lose toenails; boots not adequate; frostbitten 2 Nov. 

  Printouts from Explore web correct information 2 Nov, down all the way to C2.

  2500 ft of rope fixed including rope provided by team to Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee who fixed and maintained route through Icefall and did a good job. Other major fixing was on Lhotse Face.

  Nima Tashi mild concussion was from avalanche on Lhotse Face at 6900m on 2 Oct when he was hit by snow avalanche that carried down Nima Tashi 100m; at bottom of avalanche 2 others, Arita and Nawang Pasang, were knocked over by this avalanche, but not hurt.

  Sherpas: 
    Da Sonam, Pangboche, 1965, Everest X3
    Lhakpa Gyalzen, Tapting, Solu, 24/6/71, no 8000ers
    Nawang Pasang, Beding, 18/10/78, no 8000ers
    Nima Tashi, Pangboche, 4/4/60, Everest X5


expid: GAUG03301
peakid: GAUG
year: 2003
nation: Spain
leaders: Josep Aced
sponsor: Mustang Expedition to Gaugiri
countries: France
approach: Jomson by air->Kagbeni->Tsarang->Yara->Gumathati
bcdate: 2003-09-05
termdate: 2003-09-09
othersmts: Climbed an unnamed (6417m?) peak southwest of Gaugiri via N Face-NE Ridge (same as Australians?)
campsites: BC(05/09,4950m),Unnamed Smt(08/09,6417m)
agency: Asian Holidays
routememo:
  BC at 4950m near lake.

  6 Sept Benet Zapater and Sargji Sherpa climbed to 5800m on North Face to see NE Ridge route, turned back without going onto ridge because there was snow on ridge and they were not equipped for snow (no ice axes or crampons) and return to BC. 7th rested in BC. 8th all 4 members went to top together, arriving there at 2:00 pm. Route not technically difficult but there are crevasses. At top of ridge is plateau and to reach highest point, it is necessary to continue south for 300m to gain summit 12m higher. "I think we climbed Gaugiri" because locals had pointed out the mountain they climbed as being Gaugiri, but it was not the same mountain Americans climbed in '01 via SW Ridge. It is not possible to reach SW Ridge. Japanese map (by Ohnishi) has many mistakes: Damodar Khola actually is an E-W river, not N-S, and lakes are in wrong place. Aced's GPS said their summit was 6720m high, not the 6110m given by Tourism Ministry.


  March 2005

  Note: Due to typographical error, the above GPS reading should have been 6270m.


  Peter Ackroyd - 20 May 2005

  Regarding the Spanish expedition to Gaugiri we discussed this with Elizabeth in September 2003 and told her that we are sure they were not on Gaugiri and in fact were at the wrong base camp, the altitude was totally incorrect, 600m higher than the real Gaugiri and to determine that it was Gaugiri based on the “locals pointing it out” is risky. There are errors on the maps, though Ohnishi’s are more accurate, as the trail to Damodar Kunda (lakes) is incorrectly shown and the lakes are shown as being right below Gaugiri, whereas in fact they are a day south. I sent a detailed report of the errors on the maps to the ministry in 2002 and they said they would make corrections but I don’t know if they ever did.
   
  I sent an email from Kathmandu to the leader of the expedition after our meeting with Elizabeth but never got a response. I only have a printed copy of the email so can’t send it to you but this is what I said:
   
  “We are not sure exactly which peak you climbed but the altitude and location do not relate to the Gaugiri peak we climbed last year. It would help if you had the latitude and longitude of your peak. According to the “Classification of the Himalayas” published in 1985 in the American Alpine Journal and the latest 1:50000 survey maps issued by the Nepali and Finnish governments in 2000, Gaugiri is located at 29-02-45 N and 84-11-16 E and is 6110m. This is what we followed to climb Gaugiri in 2002 and we verified the location and our altimeters were within 30m (we built a cairn on the summit).

  There is one problem with the maps that we reported to the government survey department. All the maps show a trail leading north to lakes at 5400m below Gaugiri and indicate these lakes to be the pilgrimage site. As you know the trail leads WSW to the true pilgrimage lakes at approx. 28-58-70 N/ 84-10-00 E. It is one full days hike North up the river gorge (Damodar Khola) from these lakes to the smaller lakes at the base of Gaugiri.”
   
  I went on to ask them to send more details. In the report in the Himalayan Database they say they had a GPS so it should have been easy to give an accurate location. He is incorrect to say that the Damodar Khola does not run north as it does in fact turn north to Gaugiri. The Namta Khola and Dechya Khola run East/West. I also think they may not have had the Finn maps to refer to. There has been at least one other expedition to Gaugiri by, I think, a Japanese group and they found the right peak. I think the Spanish must have been on the range south of the Damodar Lakes and possibly on Bhrikuti but the only peak I can find at close to the altitude they report is Khumjungar Himal (6759m) which is a possibility. Most of the other peaks in the area are around 6300m. It is impossible to know without lat/long data.


  Peter Ackroyd - March 2006

  In a note Anna Brooks received from Pep Aced, he confirmed that he had a reading of 6270m for the peak they climbed. They did not have a GPS and the altitude they gave for the Damodar Kunda lakes base camp was low by 150 to 200m. If I am correct, McConnell and Brooks and the Spanish may have climbed the 6417 peak.


expid: GAUG03302
peakid: GAUG
year: 2003
nation: Australia
leaders: Ken McConnell
sponsor: Australian Gaugiri Expedition
bcdate: 2003-09-18
termdate: 2003-09-22
othersmts: Climbed an unnamed (6417m?) peak southwest of Gaugiri via NE Ridge (same as Spanish?)
campsites: BC(18/09,4950m),C1(20/09,5400m),Unnamed Smt(21/09,6417m)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  BC at 4850m near lakes
  C1 at 5400m rocky scree.

  Climb did not require mountaineering skills; was steep and both members used crampons when reached snow for last 100-150m to top. Below were rock seracs from C1.

  Mon  8 Sept - Fly Pokhara -> Jomsom. Overnight in Marpha
  Tue  9 Sept - Walk Marpha -> Kagbeni. Night in Kagbeni
  Wed 10 Sept - Chuksang village -> Pa via Cha Chola
  Fri 12 Sept - Pa -> Tangye village
                Met Spanish mountaineers here, who were returning from Gaugiri.
                They stayed overnight in Tangye also.
  Sat 13 sept - Tangye -> Yara village
  Sun 14 Sept - Stayed in Yara. Excursion to visit Luri Ghompa.
  Mon 15 Sept - Yara -> Gumu Thanti (another 2-room stone hut used by goat
                herders, no other dwellings).
                Stone hut is just before a river, probably Ghyumpani Khola.
  Tue 16 Sept - 
  Wed 17 Sept - Stayed at Gumu Thanti
  Thur 18 sept- Gumi Thanti -> Damodar Kunda.
                About half way to Damodar Kunda we crossed a river in a 
                very deep gorge there 9 corrugated iron hut beside this river.
                At Damodar Kunda are 3 small lakes very green with algae, 
                a stone hut with adjacent blue plastic-corrugated hut, a 
                small brown red metal hut with religious statues & photo
                of royal family inside it (also a rail of small cupped  
                metal receptacles all around the hut), and a chorten with
                prayer flags nearby. Some goat/sheep herders were camped 
                here for duration of our visit and also said they had met
                the Spanish climbers. Route from the river with corrugated
                iron hut to Damodar Kunda is all in SE or E direction, not
                NE as shown on our map of Mustang, we crossed 2 high passes
                probably over 5000m. Significant drop in elevation from
                2nd pass down to Damodar Kunda.
  Fri 19 sept   Stayed at Damodar Kunda.
                Several snow capped peaks SE South - SW of Damodar Kunda,
                but none visible north of Damodar Kunda.
                Local goat herders told us one of these snowcapped peaks
                was Gaugiri. They also pointed out the peak that the 
                Spanish climbed. We decided to climb this same peak. A
                significant river flowing ESE-WNW was between Damodar Kunda 
                and this peak.
  Sept 20 Sept  Damodar Kunda - C1 on Gaugiri.
                We crossed the river with problem after midday and set up
                camp in a gully on "Gaugiri," in rocky scree above vegetation
                line. If Damodar Kunda is 4950m (Spanish measurement) 
                then our Camp 1 is perhaps 5400m (estimate only-we have
                no altimeter).
                Camped with sirdar, Sherpa, cook and cook's assistant, Ken
                and Anna, i.e., 6 people.
  Sun 21st Sept Climb to "Gaugiri" summit. Returned to base camp at 
                Damodar Kunda for night. Left Camp 1 at 05:15, climbed
                NE ridge of "Gaugiri" and reached summit at 10:15. Took 
                some photos on way up, but on summit no visibility so 
                no views of other peaks.
                Those reaching summit (four)
                  Ken McConnell
                  Anna Brooks
                  Ongdi Sherpa
                  Dendi Sherpa
                Snow for only top 150-200 metres. Descended to C1 which 
                reached about 12:15. Had lunch and rested. Returned to BC
                for night. No problem.
  Mon 22 Sept   Damodar Kunda -> Gumu Thanti


  Peter Ackroyd - 20 May 2005

  Regarding the Spanish expedition to Gaugiri we discussed this with Elizabeth in September 2003 and told her that we are sure they were not on Gaugiri and in fact were at the wrong base camp, the altitude was totally incorrect, 600m higher than the real Gaugiri and to determine that it was Gaugiri based on the “locals pointing it out” is risky. There are errors on the maps, though Ohnishi’s are more accurate, as the trail to Damodar Kunda (lakes) is incorrectly shown and the lakes are shown as being right below Gaugiri, whereas in fact they are a day south. I sent a detailed report of the errors on the maps to the ministry in 2002 and they said they would make corrections but I don’t know if they ever did.
   
  I sent an email from Kathmandu to the leader of the expedition after our meeting with Elizabeth but never got a response. I only have a printed copy of the email so can’t send it to you but this is what I said:
   
  “We are not sure exactly which peak you climbed but the altitude and location do not relate to the Gaugiri peak we climbed last year. It would help if you had the latitude and longitude of your peak. According to the “Classification of the Himalayas” published in 1985 in the American Alpine Journal and the latest 1:50000 survey maps issued by the Nepali and Finnish governments in 2000, Gaugiri is located at 29-02-45 N and 84-11-16 E and is 6110m. This is what we followed to climb Gaugiri in 2002 and we verified the location and our altimeters were within 30m (we built a cairn on the summit).

  There is one problem with the maps that we reported to the government survey department. All the maps show a trail leading north to lakes at 5400m below Gaugiri and indicate these lakes to be the pilgrimage site. As you know the trail leads WSW to the true pilgrimage lakes at approx. 28-58-70 N/ 84-10-00 E. It is one full days hike North up the river gorge (Damodar Khola) from these lakes to the smaller lakes at the base of Gaugiri.”
   
  I went on to ask them to send more details. In the report in the Himalayan Database they say they had a GPS so it should have been easy to give an accurate location. He is incorrect to say that the Damodar Khola does not run north as it does in fact turn north to Gaugiri. The Namta Khola and Dechya Khola run East/West. I also think they may not have had the Finn maps to refer to. There has been at least one other expedition to Gaugiri by, I think, a Japanese group and they found the right peak. I think the Spanish must have been on the range south of the Damodar Lakes and possibly on Bhrikuti but the only peak I can find at close to the altitude they report is Khumjungar Himal (6759m) which is a possibility. Most of the other peaks in the area are around 6300m. It is impossible to know without lat/long data.


  Peter Ackroyd - March 2006

  In a note Anna Brooks received from Pep Aced, he confirmed that he had a reading of 6270m for the peak they climbed. They did not have a GPS and the altitude they gave for the Damodar Kunda lakes base camp was low by 150 to 200m. If I am correct, McConnell and Brooks and the Spanish may have climbed the 6417 peak.


expid: GIMM03301
peakid: GIMM
year: 2003
route1: W Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Ludovic Challeat
sponsor: French Gimmigela Chuli Expedition
approach: Normal route to north side of Kangchenjunga
bcdate: 2003-10-13
smtdate: 2003-10-20
termdate: 2003-10-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6750m due to snow avalanches danger
campsites: BC(13/10,5100m),ABC(15/10,5340m),C1(18/10,5920m),xxx(20/10,6750m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at 5100m Pangpema
  ABC at 5340m bottom of steep part of N-S glacier on west side at end of West Ridge.
  xxx at 6750m at 50m below West Ridge from its South Face.

  Fixed rope on (all of South Face of West Ridge): 1200m and stopped climbing at 6750m because that was end of steep face and thought could put C2 on West Ridge 50m above, this high point, on next day, so back to C1. But on 21st very strong wind and falling rocks; stopped a day in C1 and still very strong wind, so on 22nd back to BC. Then snowed from 22nd night till 25th-26th. Tried to go to C1, but too much snow and serious avalanche danger so decided climb finished.

  Maoist at Sedua Rs 2500 per member, no charge for Nepalese staff. On way back, at Sedua found body of soldier left from Army-Maoist fight that had recently occurred.


expid: GURK03301
peakid: GURK
year: 2003
route1: SE Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Myung-Sim
sponsor: 2003 Gurkarpo Ri Expedition of KTAC of Alpine Club
approach: Syabru Besi->Langtang village->Langsisa Kharka/Glacier
bcdate: 2003-09-18
smtdate: 2003-09-25
termdate: 2003-10-02
termnote: Abandoned at 5750m due to dangerous avalanching
campsites: BC(18/09,5200m),C1(25/09,5650m),xxx(25/09,5750m)
accidents: Lim and Yoon injured by stone-snow avalanche; also Ha and Kim
agency: Hyecho Adventure Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 5200m head of Langshisa Glacier
  C1 at 5650m SE Face

  Too many avalanches especially in afternoon and weather rainy or snowfall frequently. Very dangerous face with so many avalanche and much equipment lost and members injured by stones mixed in snow avalanches (one helmet broken). Ha fell 400m with an avalanche at 5500m. Avalanches funnelled by several couloirs feeding into kind of river of avalanches. Fixed 500m rope along routes BC to C1 and 400m taken away by avalanche. All down in BC 28th. Now again heavy rain and 7 big avalanches took more equipment.


expid: GYAJ03301
peakid: GYAJ
year: 2003
route1: NE Face of NW Ridge-W Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Karel Plechac
sponsor: Kyazikang 7038m Czech Himalayan Expedition 2003
approach: Marshyandi->Phu Khola->Phugaon
bcdate: 2003-10-21
smtdate: 2003-10-26
termdate: 2003-10-29
termnote: Abandoned at 5850m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(21/10,4550m),C1(22/10,4850m),C2(24/10,5440m),C3(26/10,5850m),xxx(26/10,5850m)
accidents: J. Rados Senior onset of cerebral edema; Dolezal angina problem
agency: Dhaula Treks & Expeditions
routememo:
  BC at 4550m grass east of Phugaon and northwest of summit
  C1 at 4850m grass
  C2 at 5440m on glacier below NW Ridge on snow
  C3 at 5850m on glacier below NW Ridge snow covered.

  26-27 Oct night heavy snowfall and had to stay in C3 one more night and on 28th down to BC Arrive BC 6:00 pm. Much new snow and no more time to wait for good snow conditions and then reach summit. Plan was to climb to col between NW and West Ridge and then to summit via West Ridge. All in BC 28th.

  J. Rados Senior developed cerebral edema in his descent from C1 to BC, but at lower altitude recovered; Dolezal had angina problem in C1, but Ok in BC; both men left BC with team.

  Fixed rope used 60m at about 5600m.


expid: HIMJ03301
peakid: HIMJ
year: 2003
route1: W Ridge-N Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Ayumi Nozawai
sponsor: Team Peri Himal 2003 to Himjung
approach: Marshyangdi to Nurgaon and Phugaon
bcdate: 2003-09-18
smtdate: 2003-10-02
termdate: 2003-10-06
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to leader's death
campsites: BC(18/09,4800m),C1(01/10,5450m),xxx(02/10,6000m)
accidents: Only fatal avalanche which killed Nozawai
achievment: 1st attempt on Himjung
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at 4800m near foot of Himlung NW ridge
  C1 at 5450m on snow West of Himlung & northwest of start of West Ridge which leads
     to N-S ridge connecting Himlung and Himjung.

  2 Oct 3 climbing members left C1 to ascend. Nazawai killed by snow avalanche at about 6000m: 3 members were climbing together with "safety rope belt." At about 12:00 noon big snow avalanche hit there and they were swept down by avalanche. Nozawai and Imamura were buried by the snow and Kawahara, last man going up together, was untouched by avalanche and dug out Imamura and two searched for Nozawai and found him not far away, buried up to high on his chest, they got him out but dead. The 2 survivors tried to bring him down to BC but were weak and unable to get him to BC so they left him and went to BC same day and abandoned climb. Brought body with them by helicopter from BC to KTM and 13 Oct was cremated in KTM.


expid: HIML03302
peakid: HIML
year: 2003
route1: W Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Marc Lazzaroni
sponsor: Allibert Expedition to Himlung
ascent1: 8th
approach: Beshisahar->Chame->BC
bcdate: 2003-10-02
smtdate: 2003-10-11
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2003-10-16
campsites: BC(02/10,4800m),C1(04/10,5400m),C2(07/10,6200m),C3(08/10,6300m),Smt(11/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 4800m
  C1 at 5400m all 7 members
  C2 at 6200m all 7 members
  C3 at 6300m Colin and Grenetier

  10 Oct started from C3 at 7 am, back to C3 at 7 pm. Reached summit at 4 pm. Very bad weather conditions, stayed 10 minutes. Other members abandoned the climb due to cold and bad weather conditions.


expid: HIML03303
peakid: HIML
year: 2003
route1: W Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Jean Tafforeau
sponsor: Belgium Himlung Expedition
ascent1: 12th,13th
countries: France, Portugal
approach: Flight to Manang->Tilicho->Kagla->Nar->Phu
bcdate: 2003-10-24
smtdate: 2003-11-02
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2003-11-06
campsites: BC(24/10,4900m),C1(28/10,5600m),C2(31/10,6300m),C3(01/11,6250m),Smt(02-03/11)
achievment: 1st Belgium ascent; 1st Portuguese ascent
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  Nov 02: Garcia, Nuru Wongchu, Lhakpa Rita and Dendi left C3 at 08:00 hours summit at 12:00 stayed about 10 minutes. Very cold and windy. Garcia descended to BC at 16:00 hours. Sherpas stayed at C2.

  Nov 03: Bernard, Flesch, Lafontaine, Peers, Thomas, Nuru Wangchu and Lhakpa Rita left C3 at 07:00 hours reached summit between 14:00-14:30 hours. Time spent on summit was 10-15 minutes. All members descended to C3 between 17:00-18:00 hours. 

  Tafforeau and Miss Bouillard both reached up to 6000m. Tafforeau said he needed more time for acclimatization and could not wait for long for ascent as weather became more cold and windy. Miss Bouillard joined the expedition basically to accompany her boy friend Lafontaine, and not for climbing. Both Lafontaine and Bouillard left BC on Nov 6 for Pokhara and due in Kathmandu on Nov 16. Rest of the expedition members returned to KTM on Nov 15 and to leave on Nov 21.

  1.  Dendi Sherpa (2028-8-30) [invalid date]
      Garma VDC 9, Bhitta Kharka, Solu

  2.  Nuru Wangchu Sherpa (2034-05-02)
      Pangboche VDC-7, Khumjung
      Baruntse 1998, Everest 2000 (Canadian)
      Everest 2002 (Jap)

  3.  Lhakpa Rita Sherpa (2028-5-19)
      Khumjung VDC, Ward No 9, Phortse, Solukhumbu  
      Everest 1998 (Jap TV)
      Manaslu 1999 (Jap)
      Everest 2001 (American)
      Makalu II  2001 (France)
      Lhotse 2002 (Jap)
      Annapurna 2003 (Jap)


expid: HIML03304
peakid: HIML
year: 2003
route1: W Ridge & N Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Fabien Ibarra
sponsor: Himlung 2003
ascent1: 11th
approach: Hongde->Chame->BC
bcdate: 2003-10-11
smtdate: 2003-10-20
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2003-10-24
campsites: BC(11/10,5200m),C1(13/10,5700m),C2(17/10,6300m),C3(19/10,6400m),Smt(20/10)
accidents: Ram Kumar had frostbitten fingers
agency: Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
routememo:
  3 members and 2 Sherpas started from C3 at 4:10 am. Grive and Ram stopped at 6700m, turned back because she was cold and decided to go back.

  Summited at 11:00 am. Stayed about 20 minutes, back to C2 at 3 pm.

  Lerminiaux reached C2 on the 22nd.


expid: HIML03305
peakid: HIML
year: 2003
route1: W Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Andre Benoit-Cattin
sponsor: French Expedition Himlung Himal 2003
ascent1: 9th
approach: Beshisahar->Chame->BC
bcdate: 2003-10-10
smtdate: 2003-10-17
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2003-10-21
campsites: BC(10/10),C1(12/10,5600m),C2(14/10,6300m),C3(16/10,6400m),Smt(17/10)
agency: South Asian Treks
routememo:
  C1 all 7 members except Benoit-Cattin on 13th
  C2 at 6300m all team
  C3 at 6400m all 6 members (except Gonnet and Hofert)

  Start from C3 4:30 am, summit at 12:30, stayed a few minutes, back to C3 at 5 pm

  The other four members reached only C3:
  Huckel returned to BC on 16 Oct not feeling well
  Benoit-Cattin returned to C2 16 Oct not feeling well
  Gonnet, Hofert returned to C2 on the 17 Oct


expid: HIML03306
peakid: HIML
year: 2003
route1: W Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Kris Vansteenkiste
sponsor: Himlung 2003
ascent1: 14th
approach: Beshisahar->Marshyangdi->Phugaon->E to BC via Pungi Glacier
bcdate: 2003-11-13
smtdate: 2003-11-22
smttime: 1530
termdate: 2003-11-26
campsites: BC(13/11,4770m),C1(16/11,5450m),C2(19/11,6250m),C3(21/11,6300m),Smt(22/11)
accidents: Nothing serious except Ally's frostbite
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 4770m at Punzi glacier Pt 4800m on Himlung glacier
  C1 at 5450m top of steep moraine
  C2 at 6250m South Face of West Ridge
  C3 at 6300m South Face of West Ridge

  22nd Nov left C3 7:15 am: all summiters and 3 Sherpas in summit bid. Leader turned 6820m (was too cold and lack of energy) alone and back to C3. At 7000m Dawa Pasang Tamang turned back because of respiration problem. Summiters on top at 3:30 pm in strong winds as approached summit and had to hold ice axes in snow to prevent being blown over. Left top at 3:45 and Ally got snowblind just below top, so Sandu stayed with him: Ally fell 3 times, lost one glove. Just after dark (6:30 pm) others down to C3, got head lamps and later to be taken up to Ally by Man Bahadur Tamang and got to C3 at 11:00 pm. Ally frostbitten nose (not serious), 1 ear (not serious), 8 fingers and 10 toes (badly frostbitten) and snowblind (stayed blind for 3 days); needed the 2 Nepalese (Sandu and Man Bahadur) to be able to get Ally down to BC on 23rd Nov at 7:15 pm because summit Belgiums too exhausted to do this; cook boy carried Ally on his back part way down from C1. Ally evacuated by helicopter from BC on 25th. 

  Not extremely difficult technically but some technical parts: but C1, C2 and C3 to top. C1 to C2 is very long route steep snow and ice. C3 to top steep also and snow and ice on very narrow ridge with cornice over soft side as we ascended it.

  Five members did not reach C2:
    Adriaenssens to C1 only - no motivation to go higher.
    D'Hondt to C1 only but spent most of the time in BC with stomach & respiratory 
      problems.
    Graveel to 6000m then down with tooth infection.
    Mathijs to C1, then down with altitude sickness.
    Verboven to C1, but most of the time in BC with stomach problem.


expid: HIML03307
peakid: HIML
year: 2003
route1: W Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Goetz Wiegand
sponsor: Himlung 2003
ascent1: 10th
approach: Marshyangdi and north to Phugaon
bcdate: 2003-10-08
smtdate: 2003-10-18
termdate: 2003-10-21
campsites: BC(08/10,4700m),C1(10/10,5400m),C2(17/10,6250m),Smt(18/10)
accidents: Weber's pulmonary infection
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 4700m in grassy open place west of West Ridge
  C1 at 5400m on glacier at end of a small ridge
  C2 at 6250m on small plateau 6400m peak.

  From C1 climbed a 6400m summit and down 100m to site of C2 (C3 for French teams) on small plateau.

  Heinze did not attempt to go to summit; he stayed in C2 because he was too slow. Weber climbed above C1 but lung infection forced him to stop climbing and he and Unger left on 14 Oct by helicopter.


expid: JANU03301
peakid: JANU
year: 2003
route1: N Face direct
nation: Russia
leaders: Alexander Odintsov
sponsor: Russian Jannu Expedition 2003
countries: Kyrgyz Republic
approach: Gujo Khola to Kumbhakarna (Jannu) Glacier
bcdate: 2003-09-08
smtdate: 2003-10-12
termdate: 2003-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(08/09,4600m),C1(13/09,5600m),C2(25/09,6500m),C3(02/10,7000m),xxx(12/10,7200m)
accidents: Odintsov's left arm hit by stonefall (broken) on way to C1 on 25 Oct
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC  at 4600m on north side of glacier
  C1  at 5600m on rock ledge
  C2  at 6500m in snow cave
  xxx at 7200m on North Face (90-90 degrees steep).

  17th Sept was accident: Mikhailov injured by falling ice on his head, chest and hips with broken ribs and hip bone just above C1 and was helicoptered to KTM. 

  Fixed ropes from bergschrund above C1 to 7200m, and from glacier to C1 (19x50m), and 28 more 50m ropes above C1. Stopped climb at 7200m because of bad weather; snowfall was strong and very cold and impossible to climb without mittens. Route was direct route up center of North Face to summit.

  Expedition was not bothered by Maoists, but Russians moved very fast through Maoist area above Taplejung.


expid: KANG03301
peakid: KANG
year: 2003
route1: SW Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Josep Noguera
sponsor: Kangchenjunga Expedition 2003
bcdate: 2003-09-12
smtdate: 2003-10-04
termdate: 2003-10-10
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to deep snow, not enough manpower
campsites: BC(12/09,5500m),C1(26/09,6370m),xxx(04/10,6600m)
agency: Barunche Treks
routememo:
  BC at Yalung Glacier (normal site)
  C1 at narrow long platform
  High point at 6600m on snow below Great Shelf.

  First week very bad weather and spent that time in BC playing cards. Then tried to go up to C1 site, but very deep snow. Route above C1 went down into small glacier valley and then up  towards C2 site at 7000m. All 4 climbing members were always together on the mountain and all 4 reached high point, but deep snow and cloudy weather constantly, so gave up attempt to climb above 6600m and on 4 Oct, when reached there, decided that was enough. "Very big mountain for only 4 people."


expid: KTEG03401
peakid: KTEG
year: 2003
route1: E Face (same as Groom in Winter 2001)
nation: Australia
leaders: Michael Groom
sponsor: Australian Kangtega Expedition
bcdate: 2003-11-28
smtdate: 2003-12-03
termdate: 2003-12-10
termnote: Abandoned at 5400m due to deep snow and avalanche above
othersmts: Attempted Kusum Kanguru; climbed Mera (Groom, Baker and Castel)
campsites: BC(28/11,4800m),C1(01/12,5100m),xxx(03/12,5400m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
routememo:
  BC at 4800m last grass south of Hinku valley to Tengma village, north to Hinku Glacier
  C1 at 5100m junction of Hinku Nuptse and Kangtega Glaciers
  High point on East Face.

  Baker and Groom first attempted South Buttress of Kusum Kanguru and reached 5600m; cold for Groom (new boots "not working") and Baker down with him. Because of that, climb was too technical to move fast enough to keep warm. 

  On Kangtega got only 4-1/2 hours direct sunlight at C1 because of the narrow valley. From BC north up Himla Glacier. From C1 on 3 Dec Baker, Castel and Groom attempted to establish C2 at 5500m on East Face, but at 5400m snow up to their waist and saw signs of avalanches high on the face, so decided not safe higher and retreated to C1. Other 3 members turned back below 5400m at different places because of the deep snow. On 4th and 5th cleared all equipment and went to BC. On 5th and 6th had all equipment back in BC. 

  From BC all went to Mera. Baker, Castel and Groom summited Mera on 8 Dec and all left BC on 10th.


expid: KYAS03301
peakid: KYAS
year: 2003
route1: W Ridge-W Face
nation: UK
leaders: Bruce Normand
sponsor: AACZ Kyashar 2003
ascent1: 1st
countries: Austria, Canada, Switzerland
approach: Tengug up North NE
bcdate: 2003-10-03
smtdate: 2003-10-18
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2003-10-21
campsites: BC1(07/10,5100m),C1(06/10,5800m); BC2(17/10,5800m),Smt(18/10)
accidents: Broderick's hand broken
achievment: 1st ascent
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  1st BC at 5100m at Hinku Nuptse Glacier
  High camp at 5800m at site of Kangtega expedition's BC on Kangtega Glacier
  2nd BC on 5800m bottom of West Ridge.

  First went through Tangnag village east and then north up Hinku Nuptse Glacier and went to Kangtega normal BC and put camp at 5800m 6th Oct on Kangtega Glacier. Looked at North Face of col (6024m) on route to Peak 43's north side. Face of col too dangerous with mushrooms fluting, etc., so moved high camp at 5800m and left BC in place for porters to move it later and went through Tangnag to new BC at bottom of West Ridge. Fixed 100m of ropes beyond camp on 17th. 18th to top were all member except Riddell who left others on 16th and went to Mera because didn't like objective danger on this part of climb. Roderick, Frank and Normand up rock step (already fixed on 17th) to get out snowy part of West Ridge, on highly corniced ridge, then at 6400m very steep, so crossed onto West Face and up 60-degree snow and ice couloir and then soft snow on face to top. Left at camp at 3:30 am and on top at 4:00 pm and back at camp 1:30 am of 19th. While rapelling down rock step Broderick's left hand hit by rock or ice. 

  SW Face of mountain has constant falling ice, rock and snow after 7:00 am, so had to move beneath it after leaving Tangnag for west side of mountain and returning to it very early in morning before sun was on it and warming it.


expid: LHOT03401
peakid: LHOT
year: 2003
route1: S Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Osamu Tanabe
sponsor: JAC Tokai Section Winter Lhotse South Face Expedition
bcdate: 2003-11-14
smtdate: 2003-12-15
termdate: 2003-12-23
termnote: Abandoned at 8250m due to bad weather
agency: Rolwaling Trek
campsites:
  BC(14/11,5200m),C1(22/11,5900m),C2(28/11,7100m),C3.1(7300m,03/12),C3.2(09/12,7850m),xxx(15/12,8250m)

routememo:
  BC at 5200m at left side of Lhotse Glacier
  C1 at 5900m at South Face
  C2 at 7100m at South Face
  C3 at 7850m at South Face
  High point at 8250m at South Face.

  Made temporary C3 at 7300m while making route, then made permanent C3 at 7850m. Then route-making on upwards and Kitamura and Senda reached team's high point of 8250m on 15 Dec. Then on 16th very strong wind and "they had very hard time" says BC manager. Kitamura and Senda slept in C3 on 15th, down to C2 on 16th, 17th to BC. On 18th weather forecast was for snow on 21 and 22 Dec, meaning avalanching for days and snowfall forecast for later in Dec. Expedition plan called for finishing at early Dec. So Tanabe decided on C1 on 18th Dec climb finished. All members back in BC 20 Dec.

  Kili Temba (Beding, Manaslu, Cho Oyu, Everest) hit by falling rock on his chin making big cut on 8 Dec and left expedition. Dawa Tshering (Beding, Cho Oyu, Everest, Broad Peak, Manaslu) slightly frostbitten finger. Mingma Tshering (Beding, EvX9, etc) hit by falling rock on shoulder 14 Dec and arm movement painful, so left expedition. Yasamoto 1 frostbitten finger (slightly) on 11 Dec making route at 8100m. 

  Fixed entire route from start of rock face at 5400m.

  90 yaks used to take 5400 kg of cargo to BC and 40 yaks in return from BC.

  Oxygen: sleeping in C2 and all climbing and sleeping above by Japanese; Sherpas used sleeping in C2 and temporary C3 and permanent C3; also when making the route above C2 but not at other times climbing.

  Route very much the same as Tanabe's winter 2001 expedition, but this time reached higher point.

  Does he want to come to Lhotse's South Face again? "Right now, I think, no."


expid: LSHR03301
peakid: LSHR
year: 2003
route1: SE Ridge-E Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Um Hong-Gil
sponsor: Korean Lhotse Shar Expedition
approach: Chhukung
bcdate: 2003-09-03
smtdate: 2003-10-05
termdate: 2003-10-08
termnote: Abandoned at 8250m due to avalanche deaths
campsites: BC(03/09,5200m),C1(06/09,5700m),C2(11/09,6200m),C3(23/09,6600m),C4(04/10,7700m),xxx(05/10,8250m)
accidents: 2 deaths due to avalanche
agency: NE-KO Treks
routememo:
  BC at 5200m at Lhotse Shar Glacier
  C1 at 5700m South Face east of SE Ridge slightly (20m)
  C2 at 6200m same
  C3 at 6600m same
  C4 at 7700m same
  xxx at 8250m few meters below East Ridge.

  Route from C4 to top: joined East Ridge to get to summit (no C5). Summit team left C3 at 5:00 am, all day fixing rope to C4 on 4 Oct and arrived C4 8:30 pm in moonlight (without headlamps). 5 Oct 5:00 am from C4 went for top. Got to East Ridge 9:00 am. At 8100m small peak at 10:30 am;  beyond 3 pinnacles on knife ridge with small cornices over south side; dangerous to climb over pinnacles so climbed few metres below ridge across South Face. At 8250m Hwang in lead going up fresh snow which avalanched with him and also took down Park Joon-Hoon who had been belaying Hwang and also fell because of force of Hwang fall. Both fell down South Face 2900m to glacier ata 5300m and bodies not found. From small peak so dangerous that 90-100 degrees to climb here; will die from cornices breaking and ice overhanging. 

  Summit team: Um, Hong, Hwang, Park Joo-Hoon and Pasang Gelu Sherpa (who summited Everest 21 May 2003 with Um).


expid: MAKA03301
peakid: MAKA
year: 2003
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Daniel Schliefsteiner
sponsor: Swiss Murmeli Expedition to Makalu
bcdate: 2003-08-31
smtdate: 2003-09-27
termdate: 2003-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to avalanching
campsites: BC(31/08,5400m),C1(09/09,6100m),C2(15/09,6400m),C3(26/09,7400m),xxx(27/09,7800m)
accidents: Devrient diarrhea throughout expedition and cerebral edema
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 5400m "British camp" below and before base of Chago Glacier
  C1 at 6100m right side of glacier
  C2 at 6400m from left side of glacier
  C3 at 7400m Makalu La
  High point at northeast side of ridge from Makalu La.

  Met Maoists at Sedua on trek to BC: politely requested Rs 5000 per memberm Rs 500 for cook and Rs 50 for each party; Swiss paid for themselves and sirdar paid for Nepalese staff. 

  Left C2 26 Sept with small tent (all members except) and got to Makalu La at 4:00 and 5:00 pm and set up tent; had planned to get to Makalu La at 2:00 pm rest in tent there 4 hours and then go for top from 6:00 pm but lot of snow made trail-breaking too slow so it was that night. 27 Sept Jordan and Schliefsteiner up from C3 at 6:00 pm for top while others had gone down to C2; at 7:00 pm at 7500m first slab avalanche came down (1st warning we had) and at 10:30 pm at 7800m big and little avalanche came down on them from above. Jordan heard it coming, shouted to leader and both ran to correct direction and only a small avalanche hit them and carried them down to 40m but not injured: now decided to rest to C3 for night 28 Sept to BC. With weather continuing to be bad, did not go up again through Schliefsteiner did want to try again, but no others did. 

  Devrient got only to 5800m - weak from diarrhea and then cerebral edema.


expid: NUPE03301
peakid: NUPE
year: 2003
route1: Pillar/Buttress on S Face-E Smt
nation: Russia
leaders: Valeri Babanov
sponsor: Russian South Face Nuptse Expedition
ascent1: 1st
bcdate: 2003-09-21
smtdate: 2003-11-02
smttime: 1920
termdate: 2003-11-07
campsites: BC(21/09,5200m),C1(21/10,6200m),Biv1(30/10,6900m),Biv2(31/10,7200m),Biv3(01/11,7450m),Smt(02/11)
accidents: Only very sore throats
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 5200m Lhotse Nuptse Glacier
  1st biv 30th Oct 6900m on South Buttress
  2nd 31 Oct at 7200m buttress pillar
  1 Nov 7450m Buttress Pillar
  3 Nov at 6900m in descent of buttress pillar

  15 Oct both members reached 6800m, left small high-altitude tent there and back to BC after having got good acclimatization. 21 Oct and slept at 6200m and 22nd Oct reached 6800m, but very strong wind so down to BC same day. Now down to Deboche to rest on 23 Oct. Now 3 days of heavy snowfall (1 mishap at BC) in Deboche and back to BC, arrived 27 Oct. 

  29 Oct started up buttress: 5 hours to C1; 30th up to 6900m and slept there. Decided to take very little gear in climb above there so could move quickly, so took 2 ropes, 1 mat, 1 tent (no sleeping bags), 2 bottle gas, 1 stove, a little food, 7 pitons, 5 "friends", 3 nuts, 4 ice screws and 4 snowbars. 31st reached 7200m at 4:00 pm. 1 Nov on up to 7450m up hardest part, up rock buttress 75-80 degrees in sure sections; rock covered by ice which made it easier to climb from last spring when too dry. Slept in small tents sitting up all night (Babanov slept a little, but Kochelenko not at all). 2nd Nov woke up 5:30 am and drank tea, started up at 8:40 am from tent when sun had finally reached west side of buttress where route was "not just walking on snow but constant climbing," mixed rock snow and difficult to find feasible route. Now cold and windy at 5:00 pm, so decided to carry on up despite cold (-20 degrees C) and strong wind; took no tent now, no gas or stove. Reached summit ridge about 6:30 pm, 60m from this point on ridge to summit; Babanov 10 minutes ahead of partner at 7:20 pm on top. Back to 7450m and tent "very tired and very frozen." Summit is pointed and ridge very narrow. 3 Nov to 6500m BC on 4 Nov.

  Beautiful view of Everest in moonlight. Moonlight helped considerably. Both climbers lost sensation in toes and fingers temporarily, but no frostbite.

  This was first ascent of Nuptse East I, highest unclimbed peak in world?

  * Babanov took several wrong lines and had to retreat and try alternatives.


expid: NUPE03302
peakid: NUPE
year: 2003
route1: Arete on S Face-Pt 7726 on Smt Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Fabrizio Zangrilli
sponsor: American Nuptse Expedition
bcdate: 2003-09-20
smtdate: 2003-10-17
termdate: 2003-10-25
termnote: Abandoned at 6140m due to difficulty of route for one climber and weather turned bad
campsites: BC(20/09,5200m),xxx(17/10,6140m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at 5200m Lhotse Nuptse Glacier east of Chhukung Peak
  xxx at 6140m at South Face arete.

  First acclimatized on British (Bonington) route to 6150m on 10 Oct, then down to BC. Started climbing a new route and got to 6140m on 21 Oct. Zangrilli had injured his knee on moraine below acclimatization route on 15 Oct, but still went up new route together with Pierson to 5850m on 15th and down to BC having been trying to find route above. Up on 14th but after walking an hour to bottom of face, Zangrilli realized he needed a couple of days rest. Pierson continued climb fixing rope. On 16th got 6000m and back to BC. 17th fixed to 6140m and back BC. 18th rested. 19th Pierson to top of fixed rope with more gear and BC. 21st Pierson up to 6140m and pulled down all rope because Zangrilli could not go up and route about too difficult for Pierson alone. 

  Route alreay modestly difficult mixed terrain with bare rock and ice covering some of it. Avalanche steepness 60-65 degrees but probably 90 degrees above where he stopped. Both want to come back to this route in spring '04, despite huge serac overhanging route. Weather turned bad on evening of 21st; snow and wind very strong.


expid: NUPT03301
peakid: NUPT
year: 2003
route1: Khumbu Icefall into W Cwm
nation: Canada
leaders: Ben Webster
sponsor: Canadian Nuptse Expedition
bcdate: 2003-09-27
smtdate: 2003-10-12
termdate: 2003-10-14
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to no intention to go beyond C2
campsites: BC(27/09),C1(02/10,6100m),C2(12/10,6400m),xxx(12/10,6400m)
agency: Mountain Madness
routememo:
  C1 at 6100m top of Icefall
  C2 at 6400m West Cwm
  xxx at 6400m at C2

  Made no attempt to go above C2 as had intended not to. Filming West Cwm and left C2 14 Oct to BC. Trip was for purpose of filming for Discovery Channel and not for mountain climbing and took permit for Nuptse as required by Govt rules to go into Icefall.


expid: PUMO03301
peakid: PUMO
year: 2003
route1: SE Face/Ridge-E Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Randy Shantz
sponsor: Canadian Pumori Expedition
ascent1: 143
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2003-10-05
smtdate: 2003-10-15
smttime: 1530
termdate: 2003-10-19
campsites: BC(05/10,5300m),ABC(08/10,5600m),C1(12/10,6300m),Smt(15/10)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  Schantz and Jangbu Sherpa started from C1 at 5 am, summit at 3:30 pm, stayed there 30 minutes, made pictures. Only 2 persons at that time. Back to C1 at 7 pm.

  Claude, Eder, Fulton reached only C1 on 17 Oct. They decided to abandon due to weather conditions and helped the German expedition to carry down their equipment and kitchen boy.


expid: PUMO03302
peakid: PUMO
year: 2003
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Jacek Maselko
sponsor: Pumori Expedition
countries: Canada
bcdate: 2003-10-16
smtdate: 2003-11-05
termdate: 2003-11-08
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to dangerous snow conditions
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (Oct 13 by all members except Pearson)
campsites: BC(16/10,5350m),C1(22/10,6160m),C2(03/11,6450m),xxx(05/11,6700m)
accidents: Cook boy serious altitude sickness at BC before team arrived from Island Peak
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 5350m on lake side below Kalapattar (normal SE Face site)
  C1 at 6160m on SW Ridge
  C2 at 6450m on SW Ridge

  First acclimatization on Island Peak. From Pumori BC followed lateral moraine westward to snow and ice head wall which started at 5600m; 60 degrees most at steepest part, 30 degrees least steep, at top 70 degrees. Reached SW Ridge from top of head wall. Many ice seracs and mushrooms; to avoid two big towers, traversed from 6200m onto South Face up to 100m below ridge. 5 Nov Ricci and Maselko (the only members to go to C2) left C2 for summit; on 4th had fixed 200m of rope above C2 went up these ropes and then tried to continue up ridge but at 6700m snow conditions (unconsolidated sugary snow) too dangerous to continue (and very difficult to downclimb it), so stopped and told others to return to C1 and climb finished.

  Cook boy had gone ahead to Pumori BC before BC before team arrived from Island Peak. He was carried down to Lobuche by Canadian expedition.


expid: PUMO03303
peakid: PUMO
year: 2003
route1: W Face
nation: France
leaders: Frederic Bernard
sponsor: Pumori 2003
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 2003-10-10
smtdate: 2003-10-14
termdate: 2003-10-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to wind and bad snow conditions for ski descent
campsites: BC(10/10,5300m),C1(11/10,5800m),C2(14/10,6400m),xxx(14/10,6400m)
accidents: Sherpa slight altitude sickness
agency: Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
routememo:
  BC at bottom of South Face
  C1 at 5800m Kangri Shar Glacier on west side of Pumori
  High point at 6400m at C2.

  First acclimatization on Island Peak just above BC. C1 on glacier 500m west of face because too dangerous from avalanche at bottom of face (avalanche from big serac which route went around). Fixed rope from serac to C2 for Sherpa to come up with C2 gear and descend; fixed 200m just before and around serac and 400m above serac to C2. Then down to BC for rest on 15th to C2 19th and that night big wind blew up and sirdar decided to go down to BC and climb finished because of wind and snow conditions not good for ski descent, the purpose of this climb between 14 and 18 Oct. Weather changed with temperature drop and wind strong, so now good snow on face became frozen and transformed into 30 cms high pinnacles all over face.

  Casartelli came with Bernard only as film-maker and climbed only to 5680m at start of SW Ridge advantage point from which to photograph Bernard climbing.


expid: RATC03301
peakid: RATC
year: 2003
route1: S Face-W Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Gilles Marcaud
sponsor: French Ratna Chuli Expedition
ascent1: 5th,6th
countries: Switzerland
approach: Beshisahar->Marshyangdi->Nur Khola->Phu Khola past Phugaon
bcdate: 2003-10-10
smtdate: 2003-10-18
termdate: 2003-10-22
campsites: BC(10/10,5150m),ABC(11/10,5500m),C1(12/10,6000m),C2(15/10,6500m),Smt(18-19/10)
achievment: 1st Swiss ascent
agency: Tip & Top Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at 5150m south of mountain northeast of point 6150m 
  ABC at 5500m north of BC just before glacier
  C1  at 6000m just before South Face
  C2  at 6500m top of East Ridge.

  Mountain can be seen only from point above BC. Very poor water supply and takes time to fetch small amount available daily. Had to fix 1200m: 200m to C1, C1 to C2 on face 700m and 300m C2 to top. 18th summit party fixed rope above C2 so other members could reach summit. Most technical part between C1 and C2: averge 50 degrees and up to 80-85 degrees in small parts but snow was safe and had very nice weather until 19th when became very windy. Route is actually rather complex because of surrounding peaks. 

  Marcaud thinks the summit of Ratna Chuli is actually further east along that Tibetan border, than is shown on HMG (Dept of Surveys) map, or his team and Autumn 2002 French team climbed a different peak.


expid: RAKS03301
peakid: RAKS
year: 2003
route1: S Ridge of Pt 6600m
nation: France
leaders: Arnaud Clere
sponsor: Api Himal the Far West of Nepal Expedition to Raksha Urai
ascent1: 1st
approach: Nepalgunj to Chainpur
bcdate: 2003-10-09
smtdate: 2003-10-15
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2003-10-18
campsites: BC(09/10,4000m),Biv1(13/10,5100m),Biv2(14/10,5800m),Smt(15/10)
accidents: Nothing serious except fatal fall in which Faroux and sirdar died
achievment: 1st ascent of Raksha Urai III summit
agency: Churen Himal Treks
routememo:
  BC  at 4000m at Saipal village which is stone hut only
  Biv at 5100m foot of East Ridge of point 6600m
  Biv at 5800m below col at 6142m on N-S Ridge of Raksha Urai.

  On arrival at Chainpur had to stay 2 days there: for their sirdar and a Sherpa to go down valley to meet Maoists (who would not have let team pass if they had been Americans, British or Japanese and who demanded cash). Left Chainpur 2 Oct and up Seti Khola past Gomphu to "Saipal" BC due East of Raksha Urai. 

  Team split into 2 parties since after delays arriving at BC had only 10 days for climbing. One group east to Korko 6053m (Guais, Hubaud, Bastard do Crisnay, Gamby and sirdar) to see north side of Korko, for which also had climbing permit, and to acclimatize and returned to BC. Meanwhile other members Clere, Coulaud and Faroux to Raksha Tal (lake) west-northwest of BC and then went northwest to see point 6420m of Raksha Urai. All back to BC on 12 Oct.

  Clere, Coulaud and Faroux wanted to climb point 6420m, but too technical so changed objective to point 6600m north of point 6420m on Raksha Urai's north-south ridge. Clere, Coulaud, Faroux and sirdar Keshab Raj Gurung (Ashe) left BC 13 Oct and bived at 5100m at bottom of East Ridge; 14 Oct to biv at 5800m below col at 6142m. 15 Oct 4:30 am left biv, climbed to col up 45-degree snow slope and turned north on South Ridge of point 6600m. Ridge mostly snow with many small cornices and small loose rocks (which had to be tossed) and one short, steep last part which is broader than rocky section and then several false summits, 200-300m total length. On top at 12:00 noon (all 3 French and Gurung) and stayed 30 minutes, left Nepal and Tibetan flags and prayer flags. Then down ascent route; five hundred meters before col Faroux and Gurung were in lead: those behind couldn't see them and when they reached a section of ridge where could see whole ridge 400m down onto glacier, one body spotted, but couldn't get to it because slope too steep and were tired. Saw two tracks on snow. Returned to 5800m biv 5:00 pm and slept there. 16 Oct returned to BC at 3:00-4:00 pm. Climb finished. 

  The other party meanwhile had gone to Chaurapani point 5581m via its north ridge to 200m below top.

  Pt 6420m = Raksha Urai II by this expedition's designation.
  Pt 6600m, north of II = Raksha Urai III
  Raksha Urai I is peak south of II
  Dhaulagari is next peak south of I.


expid: SARI03301
peakid: SARI
year: 2003
route1: NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Peter Ackroyd
sponsor: Damodar Cowboy Expedition 2003
ascent1: 1st
approach: Hongde, S to Chame, N up Phu Khola to Phu, N up Layju Khola
bcdate: 2003-10-12
smtdate: 2003-10-15
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2003-10-17
campsites: BC(12/10,5400m),C1(14/10,5700m),Smt(15/10)
accidents: Ackroyd suffered from sinus and chest congestion (C1 only)
achievment: 1st ascent
agency: Jai Himal Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 5400m at Bhatchk Glacier
  C1 at 5700m at moraines on edge of glacier

  Were 2 icefalls on route right above C1 and lesser one just before Col at 6042m; lower icefall started at 5750m with many crevasses which were hidden by snow blown into them by daily afternoon winds. Left C1 at 6:30 am and on top at 2:30 pm; slow progress carefully picking way up it; 1-1/2 inch crust on soft very deep snow and just below top steepness up to 70-75 degrees last 100 vertical feet; back to C1 5:30 pm. Frush fell into crevasse up to his chest but crawled out of it unharmed. Beautiful but cold (20 degrees F) weather. Slept in C1 15th and BC 16th. Walked out via Besisahar.

  Route was same as Japanese summer 2002; Japanese reached Col (6042m) only.


expid: SARI03302
peakid: SARI
year: 2003
route1: S Face
nation: USA
leaders: Joy Ann Townsend
sponsor: American on Saribung
approach: Pokhara/Jomsom->Kagbeni->Ghani
bcdate: 2003-10-18
smtdate: 2003-10-18
termdate: 2003-10-19
termnote: Did not climb due to stomach trouble
campsites: BC(18/10,5200m),xxx(18/10,5200m)
accidents: Townsend's stomach trouble ('something I ate')
routememo:
  Arrived KTM 9 Oct and left for mountain 12 Oct. Intended to climb South Face without any fixed camps. Returned to KTM 28 Oct and leaves Nepal 4 Nov. Stays in KTM Guest House.


expid: SHAR03301
peakid: SHAR
year: 2003
route1: S Face
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Robin Baum
sponsor: Czech Peak 38
approach: Chhukung Village
bcdate: 2003-09-19
smtdate: 2003-10-12
termdate: 2003-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6160m due to avalanche danger and technical problems at crevasse
campsites: BC(19/09,5250m),C1(24/09,5300m),C2(28/09,5800m),xxx(12/10,6100m)
agency: Everest Adventure
routememo:
  BC  at 5250m below rock of Island peak's east side on Lhotse Shar Glacier
  C1  at 5300m Lhotse Shar Glacier's west side (just above glacier)
  C2  at 5800m just above Lhotse Glacier's west side
  xxx at 6100m at icefall of Lhotse Shar Glacier due south of summit.

  From C1 to C2 difficult rock pillar. From C2 was ice and snow, very dangerous for snow avalanches (Koreans had fatal avalanche on Lhotse Shar). Waited for avalanching to stop but didn't. Had avalanche hit fixed ropes above C1 and those had to be replaced. Stopped attempt when 3 who reached highest point found huge crevasses at the high point and above: 3-4m wide and 300m across the icefall and also great avalanche danger from big snow field above there and where planned C3 at about 6800m (snowfield 45-50 degrees). So no safe place for C3. Planned route above C3 to Peak 38's East Ridge. For skies, snow at and near East Ridge appeared to be very hard, perhaps icy, so not good; also below ridge route would be stepped and meant many jumps. For crevasses would have required ladders (had none) and more rope to fix (had finished rope they brought). 

  Baum would like to return in 2-3 years with ladders, more rope and Sherpas to carry ropes and ladders. Another factor in decision to abandon climb was psychological effect of Korean's fatal avalanche.


expid: TILI03301
peakid: TILI
year: 2003
route1: NE Spur-N Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Rene Tomio
sponsor: Tilicho 2003
ascent1: 29th
approach: Hongde->Chame->BC
bcdate: 2003-10-12
smtdate: 2003-10-22
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2003-10-25
campsites: BC(12/10,4920m),C1(14/10,5800m),C2(17/10,6200m),Smt(22/10)
agency: Tip & Top Trekking
routememo:
  Started from C2 at 6 am, summited at 4 pm in one team, stayed on the summit 15 minutes (too windy), took pictures, returned to C2 between 5-5:30 pm.


expid: TILI03302
peakid: TILI
year: 2003
route1: NE Spur-N Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Philippe Cartier
sponsor: Tilicho Himal Expedition
countries: Portugal
approach: Marshyangdi to Manang village, then on Khugaon Khola
bcdate: 2003-10-19
smtdate: 2003-10-30
termdate: 2003-11-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to dangerous snow conditions and wind
campsites: BC(19/10,4900m),C1(22/10,5800m),C2(29/10,6300m),xxx(30/10,6500m)
agency: Churen Himal Treks
routememo:
  Tried to go to top from C2 but 200m above stopped because night's wind had made windslabs so too dangerous to go on because avalanche menace, plus meter deep snow and continued strong wind. Fixed rope on high half between BC and C1 and all route, to C2 for safe descent and one technical problem was 2 rock steps just below C1 between C1 and C2 (5m high each one and vertical).


expid: TKPO03301
peakid: TKPO
year: 2003
route1: NW Face (right side of N Pillar)
route2: NW Face (left side of N Pillar)-NE Face
nation: UK
leaders: Julian Cartwright
sponsor: Khumbu Alpine Style 2003 to Tengkangpoche
approach: Thamo Og
bcdate: 2003-11-13
smtdate: 2003-11-27
termdate: 2003-11-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6350m due to too dangerous route for soloist
agency: Arun Treks
campsites:
  BC(13/11,4320m),C1(14/11,4850m),Biv1(15/11,5400m),Biv2(26/11,4300m),Biv3(27/11,6350m),xxx(27/11,6350m)

routememo:
  16 Nov team down to Thami because Bullock developed stomach problem. 17th to Namche to rest. 20th Powell left team to return home while Cartwright and Bullock to Thami, 21st to to Thengpo, 22nd back to NW Ridge on same route and in 11 hours to 5400m in very strong wind which was loosening rocks on face with lots of rock fall, spindrift. BC at Thengpa village.

  C1 on NW Face on right side of North Pillar
  1st biv 5400m NW Face (high point via the first line)
  2nd biv at 4300m bottom of NW Face on left side of North Pillar
  3rd biv at 6350m top of NE Face on East Ridge. 

  Avalanches and pieces falling continously. Stayed at 5400m hoping wind would drop, but it didn't, so spent 23rd pitching holes made by rocks. 24th decided had enough of being bombarded and we both wanted to live, so we ran away to Thami. 25th to Namche and left Khumbu (returned to KTM 27 Nov) while Bullock stayed at Thami.

  On 26th Bullock returned to mountain for NW Face on left side of North Pillar and bivouacked at 4300m beyond Ribug hamlet (before Thengpo). 27th Bullock started up at 1:30 am "steadily plugging uphill" and reached 150m below top (i.e., 6350m in 13 hours at 2:30 pm;: now extremely cold and had to stop frequently to warm his hands to prevent frostbite; got onto East Ridge having scaled NE Face at 6350m; bived here for the night. 28th had a look at final 250m to climbing East Ridge and was steep and badly crevassed and "I wasn't going into the middle of that lot and have it crumbling around me and die" without anyone else to hold the rope and belay him, so decided not to attempt climbing it and descended a more direct time than had ascended and went down to 4300m biv site in 6 hours with 2 ropes and rest down climbing and on down to Thami for night and next night at Namche.

  Last 800m of face up to East Ridge was 90 degrees in few parts, rest 75-80 degrees and 75 percent snow ice and rest in mixed rock and snow (snow ice).


expid: TUKU03301
peakid: TUKU
year: 2003
route1: NW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
sponsor: Terres d'Adventure Tukuche Expedition
ascent1: 19st
approach: Marpha->Dhampas Pass
bcdate: 2003-10-03
smtdate: 2003-10-08
termdate: 2003-10-12
othersmts: Climbed Tashi Kang (TASH-033-01)
campsites: BC(03/10,5100m),C1(06/10,5600m),C2(07/10,6100m),Smt(08/10)
agency: Churen Himal Treks
routememo:
  BC at bottom of little Tukuche's North Ridge (normal site)
  C1 at NW Ridge
  C2 at NW Ridge.

  Did not traverse as planned because members felt unable to descend and go up again to make second ascent and traverse: would have had to carry heavy loads and these clients not ready for that. 

  However did climb Tashi Kang from same BC without any camp on Tashi Kang. Started from BC at 3:00 am by Borghese, Dufau-Joel and Grobel on 10 Oct. Up North Ridge and on top 2:45 pm, then down East Face to glacier on east and southeast side of eastern foot and returned to BC 7:00 to 8:00 pm. 

  Left mountain via Hidden Valley north and then east to Kagbeni and to Jomsom for flight to KTM. Teams had no permit for Tashi Kang.


expid: TUTS03301
peakid: TUTS
year: 2003
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Denmark
leaders: Claus Ostergaard
sponsor: Ticket to Heaven 2003 Mt. Tutse Expedition
approach: Arun River->Sedua->Tashigaon->Barun La->Lower Barun
bcdate: 2003-10-15
smtdate: 2003-10-17
termdate: 2003-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 5000m due to dangerous conditions
othersmts: Climbed unnamed peak of 5822m (Oct 23 by all members)
campsites: BC(15/10,4400m),C1(17/10,5000m),xxx(19/10,5000m)
achievment: 1st attempt on Peak 6; 1st attempt of unnamed peak of 5822m which was summited
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Maoist at Sedua exhausted Rs 5000 per foreigner, Sherpa Rs 1500, cook Rs 500 and porters Rs 50.

  BC  at 4400m Barun River on Oct 15
  C1  at 5000m below start of NE Ridge (just below it) on Oct 17
  xxx at 5000m by all 3 members

  Biv at 4900m west of unnamed Peak 5822m on Oct 21
  C1  at 5170m in glacier basin to west of Peak 5822m on Oct 22
  Peak 5822 summit on Oct 23

  From BC tried 2 ways to get to C1 but couloir led to vertical rocks; another gully for the west but at 5000m got into cloud with no visibility so turned back without knowing whether this way was possible. On 3rd try found flat spot next to NE Ridge. Wanted now to climb East Face to North Ridge at 6000m but dangerous: icefall south of NE Ridge and in area seracs falling often and steep technical rocks climbing in long sections and back to BC. 

  On 19th split into 2 parties: Hogedal and Ostergaard went back to C1 looking for options on East Face but found none, so took down C1 and returned to BC. Ortmann and Pemba Sherpa went up SE Ridge of Peak 4 to 5000m to look at NW Ridge of Peak 6 and saw nightmare of very unstable ice with frequent avalanching so back to BC. 

  Concluded NE Ridge was only safe route but difficult one and abandoned climb of Peak 6 and went to a mountain south of Peak 5 and climbed this 5822m unnamed peak; camped at 4000m on 21 Oct west of this mountain 22 Oct. Went into glacier basin at 5170m. 23 Oct found way around many crevasses and glacial labyrinth in basin to pass at 5600m North Ridge of Peak 5822m and then to top via this steep snow and ice ridge to top of Peak 5822m; snow camp and went towards BC but weather turned bad with snowfall and poor visibility, got lost for hours and finally reached original BC (4400m) at 7:00 pm.


expid: YANS03301
peakid: YANS
year: 2003
route1: E Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: David Pritt
sponsor: Amotsang Expedition
approach: Langtang village->Langtang Khola->Gyaltshan Gompa
bcdate: 2003-10-11
smtdate: 2003-10-20
termdate: 2003-10-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6120m due to impossible route
othersmts: Attempted Naya Kanga
campsites: BC(11/10,3800m),ABC(16/10,4800m),C1(18/10,5400m),C2(19/10,5800m),xxx(20/10,6120m)
achievment: 1st attempt on mountain
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  at 3800m close to Gampa
  ABC at 4800m on ridge northwest of Dranglung valley
  C1  at 5400m snow basin southeast of mountain
  C2  at 5800m glacier above Icefall

  First from BC trekked to point 4984 Tserpo Ri to have a view of mountain from the south and looked possible East Ridge. Then went from BC for 3 days climbing Naya Kanga (5846m) and turned back just under 5700m because of avalanching; climbed its North Ridge by all members and Phurba and Mingma Sherpa; reached this point on 14 Oct. 

  Arrived BC on 15th and rested. 16th from BC went up Dranglung stream by all members and Sherpas while Pritt went to Yala trekking peak with separate group. (Pritt rejoined expedition on 17th). From C1 up on icefall to C2. 20th from C2 north to col east of mountain. From Col, up East Ridge for top but 40m above col on East Ridge, found knife-edge ridge, north side vertical unconsolidated snow and south side also vertical and too dangerous to negotiate, so climb finished here by all members and 2 Sherpas to cook.


expid: AMAD03316
peakid: AMAD
year: 2003
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Tap Richards
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Ama Dablamn Expedition
bcdate: 2003-10-28
smtdate: 2003-11-10
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2003-11-13
campsites: BC(28/10,4572m),C1(01/11,5760m),C2(07/11,5394m),C3(08/11,6400m),Smt(10/11)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  Sherpas: 
    Kami Tshering, aka Ang Tshering/Chhiring, Pangboche, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X3
    Dorje Lama Sherpa, Bakanje, Everest X2

  Emmett left expedition 3 Nov with chest infection as good excuse to leave - he was "intimidated" by the mountain.


expid: CHOY03336
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Alfredo Encinar
termnote: Abandoned at 5700m
campsites: BC,ABC(5700m),xxx
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Did not climb above ABC according to their trekking agent, Jitendra of Asian Trekking on 7 Oct:

  "There was some problem among the members" and they all left the mountain returned to KTM 28 Sept and left Nepal 30 Sept.


expid: TASH03301
peakid: TASH
year: 2003
route1: N Ridge up; E Face down
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
sponsor: Terres d'Adventure Tukuche Expedition
ascent1: 3rd
approach: Marpha->Dhampas Pass
bcdate: 2003-10-03
smtdate: 2003-10-10
smttime: 1445
termdate: 2003-10-12
othersmts: Climbed Tukuche (TUKU-033-01)
campsites: BC(03/10,5100m),Smt(10/10)
agency: Churen Himal Treks
primid: TUKU03301
routememo:
  Climbed Tashi Kang from same BC at Tukuche without any camp on Tashi Kang. Started from BC at 3:00 am by Borghese, Dufau-Joel and Grobel on 10 Oct. Up North Ridge and on top 2:45 pm, then down East Face to glacier on east and southeast side of eastern foot and returned to BC 7:00 to 8:00 pm. 

  Left mountain via Hidden Valley north and then east to Kagbeni and to Jomsom for flight to KTM. Team had no permit for Tashi Kang.


expid: DING55101
peakid: DING
year: 1955
route1: W side
nation: UK
leaders: Alfred Gregory
sponsor: Merseyside Himalayan Expedition 1955
ascent1: 1st
smtdate: 1955-05-16
campsites: Smt(16/05)
primid: RAMD55101
othersmts:
  Climbed Panaio Toupa (PANT-551-01), Parchamo (PARC-551-01), Pimu (PIMU-551-01), Ramdung (RAMD-551-01), Chekigo (CHEK-551-01), Ripimo Shar (RIPI-551-01), Dapladadangdio and Singkar; attempted Pangbuk Ri (PANG-551-01); recon Gaurishankar (GAUR-551-01)

routememo:
  Most likely climbed Dingjung Ri (6249m). This team called their peak Kangkuru.


  Letter to Salisbury from Dennis Davis - March 5, 2004

  The reason we named Kangkuru was that we had to jump an enormous crevass which would have stopped us reaching us reaching the summit had we not done so. Kang is used on many names of peaks, also Kuru is used as in Dhankuru. It seemed apt to us to name the peak after such a big jump after the Australian Kangeroo, hence Kangkuru! Silly, but true.


expid: PK4186301
peakid: PK41
year: 1986
route1: W Face-NW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Unknown
campsites: BC,ABC(5000m),Biv,Smt(Aut 1986)
routememo:
  Information from Nepal Mountain Travel - 3 Feb 2004

  To:   Miss Elizabeth Hawley
  From: Nuru Jangbo Sherpa/Manager Field Mountain Travel
  Re:   Peak 41

  The following information on Peak 41 is obtained from Sangey Dorjee from Kurima, who accompanied two Swiss trekkers/climbers to Peak 41 around 1986.

  Peak 41 is situated northeast from Mera Peak and its height is approx 6450m. The route to base camp of Peak 41 is diverted or gets split from Khare on the way to Mera Peak. From here the trail goes through the glacier in Hinku Valley. It will take approx 3 hrs to reach the BC of Peak 41 and it is about 300m high above Khare. The first one hour walk takes you through the grass land and after that you will have to follow the trail across the rocky glacier. The base camp is pitched on the ground mixed with grass and rocks. It's a gradual walk from Khare to base camp. The climb from base camp to high camp will take about four and half hours. It takes you through the rocky glacier and the fixed rope will have to be used on ice and snow mixed slope. The altitude at high camp is around 5000m and there is a big boulder of ice. From high camp you will have to climb straight up to the shoulder of the mountain and then after climbing along the southwest face you will reach the summit. The route to the shoulder with fixed climbing rope and with the main rope along the southwest face climb. To reach the summit and to return to high camp will take a full day approx 8-10 hours. You would need to take good packed lunch with lots of drinking water for the summit day. The members are accompanied by a Sherpa guide down to the base camp from high camp and the Sherpa team will return to the base camp the next day with the equipment. This mountain is situated in the same range as Mera La. The next mountain in Hunku Chuli and then Peak 41. The Hunku Glacier is on west face side of Peak 41 and the Hinku Glacier is on the east side.

  This climbing trek was handled by MTN around 1986 autumn for two Swiss boys aged around 25 years. After climbing Peak 41, they trekked through Panch Pokari and crossed Amphu Laptsa pass and came out from Chhukung and back to Lukla. For approach to this mountain and out, cross pass like Amphu or Mingbo La. It would require approx one month to complete the expedition as mentioned above. For climbing, the fixed rope of 500m plus the ice screws [is required] and one must have the climbing experience. For climbing of Peak 41, minimum of one week is required.

  Hope this information will be of assistance to you.

  Editor note: the original letter had the directions east and west reversed (corrected in above rendition).


expid: KABS94101
peakid: KABS
year: 1994
route1: N Ridge from E
nation: India
leaders: H. S. Chauhan
ascent1: 1st,2nd
approach: From Yoksum west Sikkim->East Rathong Glacier
smtdate: 1994-05-12
othersmts: Climbed Kabru North (KABN-941-01) and Kabru Main (KABR-941-01)
campsites: BC,C1(21/04,5550m),C2(23/04,5850m),C3(07/05,6580m),Smt(12-13/05)
achievment: Two first ascents (Kabru South and Kabru III)
agency: None
primid: KABN94101
routememo:
  From C3, various members made ascents as follows:

  10th May - Kabru North via South Ridge from east 
             2nd ascent by S. Bhogotra, Ramphal and 10 members (7338m / 24,075 ft.)

  12th May - Kabru South via North Ridge from east
             1st ascent by S. P. Malik, N. Arshad + 11 members (7317m / 24,006 ft.)

           - Kabru Main (Kabru III) via South Ridge
             1st ascent by Dan Singh and 2 members (7395m/ 24,262 ft.)

  13th May - Kabru South 2nd ascent by A. B. Goth, A. Abby and 12 members

           - Kabru North 3rd ascent by 4 members

           - Kabru Main (Kabru III) 2nd ascent by Devi Singh and 3 members


expid: AMAD04101
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Jarlath Weingott
sponsor: International Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: New Zealand, UK, USA
bcdate: 2004-03-24
smtdate: 2004-03-30
termdate: 2004-04-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to climb too difficult for some
campsites: BC(24/03,4700m),C1(26/03,5800m),C2(29/03,6100m),xxx(30/03,6700m)
accidents: Wall evacuated with AMS symptoms
agency: Sea to Summit Trekking
routememo:
  Wall to C1 and C2 only; suffering AMS symptoms which got serious at Pangboche and helicopter evacuated from there 1 April. 

  Walton not to top; Walton to 6300m on summit day and then technical difficulties made continuing impossible and decided to go back. 

  Shilling not above C2 because not confident of getting up higher; Hennig to C2 and tired. 

  Weingott to 6700m near to Dablam, then also decided to go down with Hennig and all in C2 to sleep except Shilling to BC; then all to BC.


expid: AMAD04102
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Larry Boersma
sponsor: Spring 2004 Season's Expedition
bcdate: 2004-04-10
smtdate: 2004-04-14
termdate: 2004-04-16
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to shortage of supplies
campsites: BC(10/04,4500m),C1(12/04,5740m),C2(14/04,6100m),xxx(14/04,6100m)
agency: Cultural Treks
routememo:
  Gegar Tamang's baggage lost by airline and bought some items in Namche but plastic boots too slippery on route.

  15th food supply almost finished in C1 on return there and running out of gas to melt water there. Boersma feeling well but these problems meant unwise to continue up mountain under these circumstances and called off climb 15th night. Every day good weather in morning.


expid: AMAD04103
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Adrian Hayes
sponsor: UAE Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 2004-04-09
smtdate: 2004-04-21
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2004-04-23
campsites: BC(09/04,4550m),C1(14/04,5700m),C2(19/04,5900m),Smt(21/04)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Down to Pangboche to recover from stomach trouble and 14th Pangboche to C1. At yellow tower on 16th Hayes had to rescue his Sherpa Ang Thili (summited Makalu and Cho Oyu but getting old and no strength and technique not good enough). Hayes abseilled down to him and took his backpack and at this time he dropped his tent, so had to go to BC to get another tent. Hayes missed route coming down in bad cloud cover and slept out that night (Ang Thile had gotten to BC). 17th Hayes in BC. 

  18th to Thyangboche to telephone KTM to ask if he could use Boersma's Lhakpa Wangdi Sherpa and Martherson agreed. 19th BC to C2. 20th Hayes wanted to rest in C2: was perfect weather. 21st C2 to top and back to C2; were only people high on mountain. 22nd C2 to BC. 

  C2 to top is good long day of sustained climbing requiring constant concentration; took 12 hours C2 to top because Hayes lost an hour after a slip and difficulty returning to climbing; 5 hours top to C2 on summit day because cold and cloudy in descent.

  Had planned to go to Pumori but time running out.


expid: AMAD04104
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Matt Szundy
sponsor: The Ascending Path Ama Dablam Expedition 2004
bcdate: 2004-04-17
smtdate: 2004-04-21
termdate: 2004-04-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to continuous snowfall
othersmts: Attempted Island Peak
campsites: BC(17/04,4700m),C1(20/04,5850m),C2(21/04,6200m),xxx(21/04,6200m)
agency: Ang Rita Treks
routememo:
  "We stayed in C2 watching the conditions (snowfall) deteriorate." 25th down towards BC but got lost below fixed ropes and had to biv at 17,400 ft and retured to BC on 26th.


expid: AMAD04105
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Juanito Oiarzabal
sponsor: Basque Expedition to Nepal's Mt. Ama Dablam
bcdate: 2004-04-05
smtdate: 2004-04-14
smttime: 1700
termdate: 2004-04-17
campsites: BC(05/04,4600m),C1(09/04,5700m),C2(12/04,5900m),C3(13/04,6200m),Smt(14/04)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Pou not very well in C3 from summit day and fingers getting cold (very cold day and windy so went to 6500m and down to C3 to wait for return of all others, who reached top 17:00 pm. Late in C3 that night because strong wind and they tired (had left C3 for top at 8:30 am after became warmer). BC on 15th.

  This climb was as acclimatization for Juanito in climb of K2.


expid: AMAD04107
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: W Face
nation: Canada
leaders: Bryce Brown
sponsor: Independent climber on Ama Dablam
approach: Lukla->Island Peak->Pangboche BC
bcdate: 2004-05-04
smtdate: 2004-05-08
termnote: Abandoned at 5750m due to avalanche
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (3 May)
campsites: BC(04/05,3930m),Biv1(06/05,5200m),Biv2/07/05,5700m),xxx(08/05,5750m)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  Biv 1 at 5200m at start of glacier at foot of West Face
  Biv 2 on West Face.
  High point on West Face.

  First climbed Island Peak, then trekked to Pangboche. On 6th May west from Pangboche to 1st bivouac. Browns's Sherpa Dendi said he had been on Ama Dablam with Koreans in 1996 and he knew the normal route (Korean '96 team was on SW Ridge) which he would now show him how the route went. Low-lying clouds prevent their seeing the mountain wall and Bryce relied on Dendi's assurance that they were climbing the normal route when actually, they were on the West Face. On 8th May they were hit at 5750m by small avalanche of mixed snow, rock and ice: Dendi was hit by large rock on his cheek and Brown by another large rock on his right shoulder. Clouds had prevented their seeing avalanche coming and from seeing the huge serac that overhangs the West Face. Dendi had difficulty eating because of his injured cheek so down to Pangboche. Now Brown was having stomach trouble and was too sick to go up again. They rested for several days at Pangboche and several more at Namche, so reached Lukla airfield only on 13th May.

  Sherpa:
    Dendi Sherpa, Apr-May 1970, Pike, Okhaldhunga


expid: AMAD04108
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Vladimir Gorbach
sponsor: Ukraine Himalaya Expedition Ama Dablam 2004
approach: Namche->Thyangboche->BC->Adv BC
bcdate: 2004-04-23
smtdate: 2004-05-01
termdate: 2004-05-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to bad weather and route conditions
campsites: BC(23/04,4700m),C1(26/04,5800m),xxx(01/05,6300m)
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
routememo:
  C1 at 5800m, came back to BC.

  25 Apr Hlib Linetsky left BC due to ulcer; left KTM on 03 May.

  1 May started from C1 at 00:30 am reached 6300m at 10:30 am. Stayed about 1 hour decided to return due to very bad weather and route conditions. Danger of avalanche and heavy snowfall.

  On 27 Apr met American group which abandoned the climb due to weather conditions.


expid: AMAD04109
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Portugal
leaders: Joao Garcia
sponsor: Portuguese Ama Dablam expedition
bcdate: 2004-05-07
smtdate: 2004-05-14
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2004-05-16
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (by all on 4 May)
campsites: BC(07/05,4300m),C1(08/05,5500m),C2(13/05,6200m),Smt(14/05)
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C2 at normal C3 site.

  5 members (except Coelho) left C2 on 14th 8:00 am after waiting for summit in wind and chilly weather. Garcia on top 12:00, rest at 12:40. (J. L. Carvalho, who was very tired and slow) slept in C2 and 15th to BC. 

  Coehlo got nose throat infection in C1 did not go above C1.


expid: ANN104101
peakid: ANN1
year: 2004
route1: S Face (left of Bonington route)
nation: Poland
leaders: Piotr Pustelnik
sponsor: \Annapurna South Face International Expedition
countries: Russia, Slovakia, Slovenia
bcdate: 2004-04-09
smtdate: 2004-05-18
termdate: 2004-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 7350m due to heavy snowfall bringing avalanche danger
campsites: BC(09/04,4300m),ABC(11/04,5000m),C1(21/04,5100m),C2(07/05,6800m),xxx(18/05,7350m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  east of South Annapurna Glacier on grass
  ABC on rocks also to S Face west of Glacier
  C1  at beginning of S Face at foot of Bonington route
  C2  at east of Bonington's ridge in crevasse.

  After ABC, weather was foggy and snowfalling so delayed to get to C1. Again bad weather delayed progress; at C1 snow broke one tent completely and one tent partially. Technically difficult above C1 with 75-degree steepness in some sections. Stopped at 7350m at 5:00 pm because too late an hour to fix more rope; down to C2 to rest one day. Started up from C2 at 12:30 pm of 19th, big snowstorm from 2:00 to 7:00 am and went up only 100m from C2 and returned; section of avalanche hit C2 after they had gathered out of tent. Weather forecast bad for next few days so decided 20th May climb finished with avalanche danger now. 

  For me this line is safest on face "with lots of rock fall on Japanese route but not safe." Pustelnik wants to return to it.

  Jozefowicz left expedition 9th May to return to work.


expid: ANN104102
peakid: ANN1
year: 2004
route1: N Face (French route)
nation: Germany
leaders: Ralf Dujmovits
sponsor: International Annapurna Expedition 2004
ascent1: 42nd
countries: Austria, Italy, Japan, Kazakhstan, Russia
bcdate: 2004-05-15
smtdate: 2004-05-28
smttime: 1530
termdate: 2004-06-01
agency: Thamserku Trekking
othersmts:
  Korshunov climbed Annapurna Middle Summit by mistake (ANNM-041-01); Moro, Urubko and Korshunov to Baruntse; other 3 to Xixabangma (no highest summits)

campsites:
  BC(15/05,4150m),Biv1(22/05,4900m),Biv2(23/05,5650m),Biv3(26/05,6700m),Biv4(27/05,7150m),Smt(28/05);Middle Smt by Korshunov(28/05)

routememo:
  BC at below normal site because normal site covered by big earth avalanche
  Biv 1 at normal site
  Biv 2 at normal site.

  Dujmovits, Kaltenbrunner and Takeuchi arrived BC 21 May. 23rd up from BC towards C1 and now Korshunov joined them and reached C1 to sleep. 23rd Moro and Ubrubko to C2. 24th Dujmovits and 3 to C2 and spent night there with Moro and Ubrubko; after that snowfall. 25th Dujmovits, Kaltenbrunner, Takeuchi went up to 6300m fixing 150m in original French route (didn't go to Dutch Rib which doesn't exist any longer) and slept in C2. 25th Moro and Urubko down to BC while Korshunov stayed in C2. 26th all in C2 went to C3. 27th Dujmovits and 2 others left C4 at 5:00 am; Korshunov convinced route led up couloir to saddle between East and Middle Summit and went into couloir alone, while Dujmovits went on normal route towards Middle Summit but traversed face to highest summit; up south (150-180m high) couloir to top at 3:30 pm and back to C4 7:00 pm. Korshunov went to Middle Summit and to C4 at 6:00 pm, having realized his route was wrong to main summit.

  28th Moro and Urubko to C3. 29th all down to C2 except Moro and Urubko who climbed to C4 and left C4 8:00 pm for night ascent in order to be descending in daylight to look for Boris who had been very slow descending and without a walkie-talkie. Urubko to top at 1:30 am 30th while Moro had turned back at about 7800m (with stomach touble and too cold) to C4. Denis joined Moro at 3:00 am. 6:00 am they went down to BC and so did all others. Most of climb was steep ice climbing. "Entire route very dangerous - I would never return."

  Expedition had no fixed camps but moved their tents as they ascended and descended.

  Abele Blanc had gone to BC before all other members, but left without doing any climbing because he saw how dangerous the route was.


expid: BARU04101
peakid: BARU
year: 2004
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Andrew Hughes
sponsor: British Services Makalu Expedition 2004
bcdate: 2004-04-11
smtdate: 2004-04-19
termdate: 2004-04-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to difficult snow conditions
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak (by all on 7th April)
campsites: BC(11/04,5700m),C1(15/04,6130m),C2(18/04,6400m),xxx(19/04,6950m)
accidents: Banning pulmonary edema at 6800m (later evacuated)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  BC on moraine below glacier high site
  C1 on east side of West Col
  C2 at 6400m before start of SE Ridge.

  On 19th April 5 members and 3 Sherpas left C2 for top 3:15 am. Banning moving very slowly due to altitude sickness (they realized later) and Price stopped him (later had to be evacuated with pulmonary edema). Pasang Gyalzen stayed with him at 6800m while others on up to high point. 

  Others not in summit bid because of bad chest infection; others stopped at 10:30 am because of difficult snow conditions and ahead was difficulty and getting too late; stopped at C2, but Banning's health getting worse, so at 4:00 pm from C2 to C1. 20th Banning evacuated by helicopter from BC. Climb finished. All members now too ill or too tired to try again and not much time left.

  Gleave did no climbing; left after 2 days trek with viral infection.


expid: BARU04102
peakid: BARU
year: 2004
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Nev Taylor
sponsor: Jagged Globe Baruntse Expedition 2004
countries: Australia
approach: Lukla->Tagnac->Kale
bcdate: 2004-05-02
smtdate: 2004-05-09
termdate: 2004-05-12
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to big impossible crevasse
campsites: BC(02/05,5300m),C1(05/05,6350m),C2(08/05,6500m),xxx(09/05,6700m)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at Baruntse BC
  ABC at West Col
  C2  over the ridge
  Highpoint at big crevasse.

  On May 9 all members left C2 to fix ropes at 06:00 hours. Lloyd and Nima came across the huge crevasse and returned with them. All members descended to BC. The plan was to put up the fix line on May 9 and try to summit next day from C2. 

  Hudson climbed up to 6600m on May 9. James and Taylor up to 6650m on May 9. 

  The expedition encountered Maoist people in Tagnac - paid them Rs 1000 per person. Maoists got rude with Sherpa support staff about the game which the Sherpas had. Maoist took away the game set and hit some of the Sherpas with the sticks. The expedition is leaving the country on May 22.


expid: BARU04103
peakid: BARU
year: 2004
route1: NW Face-N Ridge-N Smt
nation: Italy
leaders: Simone Moro
sponsor: Baruntse North Side Expedition
countries: Kazakhstan, Russia
bcdate: 2004-04-08
smtdate: 2004-05-04
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2004-05-07
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
campsites:
  BC(08/04,5100m),ABC(09/04,5250m),C1(18/04,5900m),C2(22/04,6200m),C3(03/05,6700m),Smt of Kali Himal on Baruntse North(04/05,7057m)

routememo:
  BC  at Imja moraine glacier below Paresshaye Gyab
  ABC at east end of moraine where rocks stop and ice begins
  C1  at NW Face's pillar
  C2  at top of NW Face's pillar
  C3  at North Ridge.

  Pillar on NW Face used to avoid avalanches from 5650m - pillar stops at 6200m. From there up NW Face itself to North Ridge at 6700m. From C3 both Italians and Urubko at 8:00 am and up North Ridge to peak named Kali Himal (after called Baruntse North Peak). At this 7057m peak at 10:30-10:45 am (very cold and windy); back to C3 to sleep. 5th May descended to Col at 6190m between Kali Himal and Numri, then down rappelling to join descent route's pillar of Kali Himal and down ascent route to BC at 8:30 (Moro) and other 2 at 9:30 pm. This team's ascent is new route on NW Face and 2550m of zigzagging across face. Descent route same at Dutch in 1983, who said they had been on West Face of Baruntse.

  In spring 1994, a Czech team lead by Martin Otta climbed a similar route on the NW Face closer to the West Col at the start of the climb before intersecting with Moro's route below the North Ridge.


  Kali Himal or Baruntse North by Simone Moro - 12 May 2004

  It had been difficult, very... but at the end using all our capacities and resistance we reached our objective. The North Face [NW Face] of Kali Himal or Baruntse Nord is really big, vertical, dangerous and impressive. It was virgin and unclimbed and only the ices of the trekkers and climber had been dreamed a climb on that wall after looking the mountain.

  We knew that we have to use all our capacities and strength to have success on that face.

  And it happened... We struggled four days and nights against wind, cold, mix climb, ice and rock. We had bivy 4 days in three people in a tent of two.... We never finded place to set it good and only our legs hanging in the void.

  Ice screws, rock pitons, ice axes, friends and nuts had been used to climb the complicated wall, but the real struggle had been against the wind and cold. We get 35m/sec (120 km/h) wind during all he climb and also on the summit!!!

  We had been very happy to reach the summit through this new and first route and we spend 12 hours to come down from the mountain rapelling on a single ice screw for 20 times...

  The name of the route is "Ciao Patrick" because we dedicated the climb to Patrick Berault recently dead. It was our friend and mythus.


expid: CHOY04101
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Poland
leaders: Jakub Lerner
sponsor: Polish Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Helicopter to Kodari (Apr 10)->Nylam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2004-04-16
smtdate: 2004-05-09
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2004-05-19
campsites: BC(16/04,4900m),ABC(18/04,5700m),C1(22/04,6430m),C2(28/04,7130m),C3(08/05,7560m),Smt(09/05)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Lerner left C3 on May 9 at 03:45 hours, summited at 11:00 hours, stayed about 20 minutes, descended to C2 at 19:00 hours. Clear visibility but extremely windy. Had good view of Everest. Other climbers were DAV Summit Club Expedition. 

  Lerner will stay in KTM for about another two weeks. He was to go for canoeing and visit Pokhara. No fixed departure date. 

  His teammate Przydrozny is still trying for the Cho Oyu Summit. He may return around end of May, depending on his success on the mountain.

  May 16 left C3 at 04:00 hours, summit at 16:00 hours, stayed 15 minutes. Other on summit together was Ronald (first name) of Austrian expedition. Both spent about 2 hours on summit plateau - moving very slowly. Both the people reached C3 at 21:00 hours. (Ronald left C3 next morning). Tomasz reached C2 about 17:00 hours. It took him [a while] to take out the tent put up by Dutch Expedition long ago. The tent was heavily tied and snow made it more hard work to take out. With all the load - he could not move fast. It was very slow descent to C2. Jakub and Tomasz agreed to share supplies and tent. As per their arrangement C1 was to be put up by Tomasz and C2 by Jakub. They made arrangement with Dutch to borrow C3 tent, fixed by Dutch. In previous note he said C3 altitude was 7560m; in fact the altitude was given by Jakub which he did not properly judge and same altitude was copied by Tomasz. In my second visit Tomasz estimated the altitude of C3 correctly whihc was 7450m. Jakub and Tomasz never climbed together or used tents. Because Tomasz was always ahead of Jakub. When Jakub was at C1, Tomasz in C2, when Tomasz was at C1, Jakub was in C2. On Jakub's summit day Tomasz went down to BC. As Tomasz was ahead of Jakub he missed the ascent time.

  About summit time he confirmed as 16:00 with Ronald (first name) of Austrian expedition. I talked to Otto Harrer, leader of the Austrian expedition on May 24 around 16:00 hours at Garden Home. He confirmed that Tomasz and Ronald were on summit together - they were very slow. Also confirmed that Ronald slept at C3 with Tomasz on return from summit and left the camp next day. For C2 Ronald left KTM on the morning of May 24.


expid: CHOY04102
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Austria
leaders: Andreas Bucher
sponsor: Amical Alpin Cho Oyu Expedition 2004
countries: France, Germany, Italy
approach: Helicopter to Kodari (Apr 10)->Nylam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2004-04-16
smtdate: 2004-05-09
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2004-05-16
campsites: BC(16/04,4900m),ABC(19/04,5600m),C1(25/04,6300m),C2(28/04,7000m),C3(08/05,7400m),Smt(09/05)
accidents: Bucher's upper lip cut by a falling stone (healing well)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  May 9 left C3 at 03:00 hours NST except Loew (she was feeling very cold and no motivation for summit). Five members and two Sherpas summited at 08:30 hours (Bucher). Two members were ahead of Bucher and the rest behind him by about 10 minutes, stayed at summit about 10 minutes due to wounded upper lip of Bucher. Weather was clear but windy. Bucher said Everest and Lhotse looks dark grey due to jet wind of last six-seven days. Descended to C2 where all members reached at about 16:00 hours. While summiting behind Bucher team were DAV team, Olaf couple, and other climbers. On that day there were about 20 climbers summited.

  Stone fell down on Bucher while he was climbing on yellow band. 

  Member Ducret slept at C1 on May 5 and went down to ABC next day; no motivation to climb further. 

  Member Eiterer left ABC on May 13 for KTM and may have left the country on 15th.

  The team will leave Nepal on May 21. 

  Next autumn Bucher leading a team to Tilicho.

  Sherpas:
    Chuldim Sherpa who has been to Cho Oyu summit 4 times. He has been sirdar of
      Amical expeditions to Cho Oyu for last so many years. He was on Cho Oyu summit
      in autumn 2003
    Pasang Chhiri Sherpa, 30-01-1975, 1st time summit


expid: CHOY04103
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Belgium
leaders: Hogan Beernaert
sponsor: Cho Oyu Expedition 2004
bcdate: 2004-04-11
smtdate: 2004-04-28
termdate: 2004-05-05
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to heavy snowfall and strong winds
campsites: BC(11/04,4900m),ABC(14/04,5700m),C1(17/04,6400m),C2(26/04,7000m),xxx(28/04,7200m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C2 at snowfield.

  18th down to ABC to rest and there had 3 days of snowfall. Left ABC 25th to C1 and 26th to C2. Up on 28th 200m, got misty and snowfall started and down to ABC to rest 2 days. On 1st May should go to C1, but all night of 30 Apr strong wind, so stayed in ABC. Now heavy snowfall, so decided no summit bid on 4th May. Krishna Tamang went up to retrieve gear at C1 and C2.


expid: CHOY04104
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Belarus
leaders: Mikhail Melnikov
sponsor: Belorussian Cho Oyu Expedition 2004
approach: KTM by road to BC
bcdate: 2004-04-16
smtdate: 2004-05-08
smttime: 1215
termdate: 2004-05-10
campsites: BC(16/04,4950m),ABC(18/04,5700m),C1(22/04,6400m),C2(29/04,7100m),C3(07/05,7450m),Smt(08/05)
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
routememo:
  Summit party life C3 3:30 am (Chinese Team) on top 2:30 pm (12:15 NST) where saw Everest, Lhotse and Kangchenjunga. Telpuk to 7800m, not feeling well (high temperature), so returned to C3. V. Lutov also slept in C3 while other 2 summiters to C2 for the night; V. Lutov in C3 at 8:00 pm; other 2 arrived C2 at 7:00 pm. On 9th May all down to ABC.


expid: CHOY04105
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Ray Yeritsian
sponsor: Dream Cho Oyu Expedition 2004
bcdate: 2004-04-12
smtdate: 2004-04-22
termdate: 2004-05-12
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to sickness
othersmts: Planned for Everest after Cho Oyu (but illness prevented that)
campsites: BC(12/04,4900m),ABC(14/04,5700m),C1(18/04,6400m),C2(22/04,7200m),xxx(23/04,7200m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Planned to summit from C2; had gone down to rest at ABC. 5 May to C1, 8th May to C2, but when got to about 7000m when developed pulmonary edema, down to C1 with this breathing problem, and to ABC on 9th and 10th May BC. Returned to KTM 13 May and leaves 14 May.


expid: CHOY04106
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Luis Lima
sponsor: Spanish Cho Oyu Expedition 2004
bcdate: 2004-04-05
smtdate: 2004-05-01
termdate: 2004-05-08
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to lack of time
campsites: BC(05/04,4900m),ABC(10/04,5700m),C1(18/04,6400m),C2(29/04,7200m),xxx(01/05,7400m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  From C2 Larrion and Sans left for top at 12:00 midnight of 30 Apr to 7400m at 3:00 am, then wind too strong, slept few hours and back to ABC. 

  Now had made camps at 6900m on night 3 May (Lorenzo, Vicente and Lograno) but gear stolen, so back to ABC 4 May and climb finished; no more time. 

  Because of a bad chest infection, Lima left ABC to go home on 26th April.


expid: CHOY04107
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Canada
leaders: Eric Tremblay
sponsor: Expeguida Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Helicopter to Kodari (Apr 10)->Nylam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2004-04-16
smtdate: 2004-05-07
termdate: 2004-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to exhaustion, time and lack of Sherpa support
campsites: BC(16/04,4900m),ABC(18/04,5700m),C1(21/04,6400m),xxx(07/05,6800m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  On April 28 carried load to C2 site, then had to return to C1 due to storm. On May 7 tried again to carry load to C2 but very exhausted, could not make it up to C2. 

  Both members intend to try Cho Oyu next spring with Sherpa support. It was bad timing for them according to Eric. The team trying to leave Nepal on 16th.


expid: CHOY04108
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Christian Binggeli
sponsor: 2004 Swiss Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Helicopter to Kodari->Nylam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2004-04-16
smtdate: 2004-05-09
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2004-05-13
campsites: BC(16/04,4900m),ABC(18/04,5700m),C1(22/04,6430m),C2(07/05,7130m),C3(08/05,7560m),Smt(09/05)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Left C3 on May 9 at 03:30 hours NST, summit at about 13:00 hours, stayed about an hour, descended to C3 at 16:30 hours. Next day at C1. 

  The team was the last to summit. They were climbing together all the time. Olaf and another Swiss team behind Binggelli team about 15-30 minutes. Good weather saw clear view of Everest. Returned to KTM on 14 leaving on 16th.


expid: CHOY04109
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: S Africa
leaders: Richmond MacIntyre
sponsor: International Cho Oyu Expedition 2004
approach: Helicopter to Kodari (Apr 10)->Nylam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2004-04-16
smtdate: 2004-05-09
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2004-05-13
campsites: BC(16/04,4900m),ABC(18/04,5700m),C1(21/04,6400m),C2(27/04,7100m),C3(08/05,7500m),Smt(09/05)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC  at usual campsite
  ABC at usual campsite
  C1  at usual campsite
  C2  at usual campsite
  C3  at usual campsite.

  Left C3 at 04:30 hours on May 9 NST, summit at 10:30 hours, stayed about 15 minutes, descended to C2 at about 15:00 hours. Clear visibility, not very cold, but very windy on the summit. Saw Everest, prayer flags on the summit. Met Paco coming down on their way up; while descending met other members of the collection ascending. MacIntyre to leave KTM on 15 by Jet Air.

  Sherpa: 
    Temba/Pemba Wangdi Sherpa, 29-01-60, Makalu VDC, Cho Oyu X2


expid: CHOY04110
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Joost Schreve
sponsor: Vickspedition 8000 to Cho Oyu
bcdate: 2004-03-26
smtdate: 2004-04-20
smttime: 1215
termdate: 2004-05-02
campsites: BC(26/03,4900m),ABC(30/03,5715m),C1(05/04,6425m),C2(11/04,7000m),C3(18/04,7450m),Smt(20,28/04)
accidents: Schreve's retinal hemmorhage
agency: Nepal Myths & Mountain Trails
routememo:
  2 nights in C3 (18th and 19th) - pinned down in camp because gale force winds and on 20th set out for top (Nieuwenhuys, Schreve and 3 Sherpas). Got 8020m below plateau, then tired and too alone and down to C2 (2 Sherpas to ABC). Members arrive ABC 21st. Pasang on top on 20th alone and saw Everest. 

  Started up again on 25th (Schreve stayed in ABC because of retinal hemmorrhage suddenly at ABC on 21st). Summit party in C1 on 25th, C2 on 26th, C3 on 27th and top 28th. Left C3 at midnight (NST) and on top 12:15 pm. Very cold night, -40 degrees 5:30 am. North top and saw Everest.

  In ski descent, Nieuwenhuys skied from top; all across plateau, took off skies to 8000m in rocks. Now clouds came, they were exhausted (Ang Pemba and Hermann) so helped to C3, slept there and 29th skied from C3 to C2 and to 6800m. Skis back on at 6750m and skied to little below C1 to 6400m at end glacier. Were first team to arrive at mountain and asked next team, Spanish, to pay $50 per member and they did so and so did 25 other climbers.

  Expedition doctor, Herman Frima, went to C1, spent rest of time in ABC.

  Summit Sherpas:
    Pasang Nuru, 17/3/73 (?), Kharikhola, summited Lhotse 20/5/03
    Ang Pemba, 27/2/84, Bunbari, Jubing, 1rst 8000er


expid: CHOY04111
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Jan Vestak
sponsor: Czech Cho Oyu Expedition GO 8000
bcdate: 2004-04-16
smtdate: 2004-05-11
smttime: 1045
termdate: 2004-05-14
campsites: BC(16/04,4900m),ABC(18/04,5700m),C1(21/04,6400m),C2(27/04,7100m),Smt(11/05)
accidents: Leader's chest infection; nothing else
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
routememo:
  28 April to ABC to rest and then snowfall and windy. Again in C2 for a summit bid but stopped from going high on 6th May at 7400m in strong wind and snow; all and back to C2 and on to ABC (this attempt by Krabec, Maly, Novak with other Czechs).

  9th May from ABC some 3 members up to C1; 10th to C2; 11th from C2 left for top 5:00 am (Chinese time) and got to top at 1:00 pm (10:45 NST) by Maly and Novak while Krabec stopped 7500m because another hour to reach top and return safely and toes very cold. From top saw Everest and Lhotse, returned to C2 at 1:00 pm. 12th to ABC.

  On 7th May Penkava had tried for summit alone, but stopped at 7700m at rock band because other teams' Sherpas told him there at 1:00 pm that he had insufficient time to reach top and return.

  Leader Vestak got serious lung infection and left expedition on 27 April. Sika to C1 only.


expid: CHOY04112
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Francisco Martinez Tebar
sponsor: Expedicion Turquesa 04 to Cho Oyu
approach: Helicopter to Kodari (Apr 10)->Nylam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2004-04-16
smtdate: 2004-05-09
smttime: 0915
termdate: 2004-05-13
campsites: BC(16/04,4900m),ABC(18/04,5700m),C1(21/04,6400m),C2(27/04,7100m),C3(08/05,7500m),Smt(09/05)
accidents: Perez Cerdan fractured his right palm
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC  at Chinese BC
  ABC at usual camp site
  C1  at usual camp site
  C2  at usual camp site
  C3  at usual camp site.

  Left C3 on May 9 at 03:00 hours NST, summit at 09:15 hours, stayed on the summit time enough to take pictures maybe 2-3 minutes; it was very cold and windy. Clear view of Everest. He was alone on the summit, saw prayer flags, descended to C2.

  Ferrer Carrillo suffered from bronchitis. Perez Cerdan fell down while crossing the stream between CBC and ABC on April 18 and fractured the right palm. Both Ferrer Carrillo and Perez Cerdan left BC on April 26 for KTM. Leader Martinez Tebar will leave Nepal on 17th.

  Sherpa: 
    Renjen Bhote (20-06-1957), Solukhumbu. 
      (according to Bishnu, Renjen had summited Cho Oyu in 1996).


expid: CHOY04113
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Olaf Zill
sponsor: Only one woman and one man Cho Oyu Expedition 2004
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 2004-04-17
smtdate: 2004-05-09
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2004-05-14
campsites: BC(17/04,4920m),ABC(20/04,5700m),C1(28/04,6400m),C2(07/05,7100m),C3(08/05,7400m),Smt(09/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  150 km hour winds destroyed at C1 about 11 tents and snowfall delayed occupation. Delay in establishing C2 due to very strong wind. Left C3 for top 3:30 am NST, on summit 10 hours exactly later 13:30 hours, saw Everest and Lhotse and found prayer flags and katas; returned to C3 at 17:00 hours for night. 10th May to ABC.


expid: CHOY04114
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Radek Jaros
sponsor: Expedice Craft Cho Oyu 2004
bcdate: 2004-04-07
smtdate: 2004-05-10
smttime: 0715
termdate: 2004-05-13
campsites: BC(03/04,4900m),ABC(13/04,5700m),C1(19/04,6400m),C2(20/04,7100m),C3(28/04,7600m),Smt(10/05)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  29th April to ABC to rest. 3 May all members to C1, 5th May to C2 and 6th May in first summit attempt turned back at 7700m in snowstorm and again down to ABC.

  8th May all 3 members to C1, 9th May to C3, and 10th May 4:00 am (CST) Koukal and Jaros left from C3 and arrived top at 9:30 am (07:15 NST), saw Everest and Makalu; down to C1 to sleep. 11 May to ABC and waited for yaks. 13 May to BC and Nyalam. Left skis at ABC when saw snow conditions prevented their use.

  Vavrys tired and had gotten altitude sickness (pulmonary edema) on way to mountain and arrived 18 April at ABC. 


expid: CHOY04115
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Matthias Robl
sponsor: DAV Summit Club Cho Oyu Expedition 2004
countries: Austria, Switzerland
bcdate: 2004-04-19
smtdate: 2004-05-09
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2004-05-16
campsites: BC(19/04,4900m),ABC(23/04,5700m),C1(26/04,6400m),C2(07/05,7050m),C3(08/05,7400m),Smt(09-10/05)
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  Left C3 3:00 am NST 9th May and reached top (saw Everest) and down to C2 (both Robls & S. Block) and others to C3 and all to ABC 10 May. 

  On 10 May 3 Members and Nawang Sherpa left C3 3:00 am, on top at 12:00 (Sherpa, Carnal and Mueller to top, Kalmbach stopped at Yellow Band 7500m because cold fingers and toes). Saw Everest, prayer flags. Return to C3 except Kalmbach to C2. All in ABC 11 May.

  9th May timings on top: S. Block, Alexandra and Matthias Robl at 11:00 am, Brandmayr and Lhakpa at 12:00, and D. Block 3:00 pm. 10 May summit time: Carnal, Mueller and Nawang at 12:00 hours.

  At C3 in the night of 8th May, Carnal lost all feeling in his legs and could not go on to top; cause not known, perhaps lack of oxygen; was carried down mountain by Nawang and Sherpas from other expeditions and left expedition on 13 May. D. Block with frostbitten toes and his son S. Block also left expedition 13 May.

  Matthias Robl and Scherzer had planned to go to Everest direct from Cho Oyu but Scherzer too tired to go. When Robl arrived at Everest BC, was told he had no permit and could not climb; Robl had arranged with Asia Trekking to be included on Asian Dream Everest Expedition.


expid: AMAD04106
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Sweden
leaders: Lars Svens
sponsor: The Ascending Path Ama Dablam Expedition 2004
bcdate: 2004-04-17
smtdate: 2004-04-22
termdate: 2004-04-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to continuous snowfall and lacking of time
campsites: BC(17/04,4600m),C1(20/04,5800m),C2(22/04,6200m),xxx(22/04,6200m)
agency: Ang Rita Treks
routememo:
  24th down to C1 because snowfalling and snow didn't stop falling. 27th down to BC and decided climb finished.

  "I'ts very bad, you do so much training and planning and put up so much money and then the weather puts an end to it all." Couldn't spend more time waiting for it to improve.


expid: CHOY04117
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Tomasz Przydrozny
sponsor: Polish Cho Oyu Expedition 2004
approach: Helicopter to Kodari (Apr 10)->Nylam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2004-04-16
smtdate: 2004-05-16
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2004-05-19
campsites: BC(16/04,4900m),ABC(18/04,5700m),C1(20-21/04,6430m),C2(28/04,7160m),C3(06/05,7450m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  May 16 Tomasz left C3 at 04:00 hours, summited at 16:00 hours, stayed 15 minutes. Other on summit together was Ronald (first name) of Austrian expedition. Both spent about 2 hours on summit plateau moving very slowly. Both reached C3 at 21:00 hours (Ronald left C3 next morning). Tomasz reached C2 about 17:00 hours. It took him a long time to take out the tent put up by Dutch Expedition long ago. The tent was heavily tied and snow made it more hard work to take out. With all the load, he could not move fast. It was very slow descent to C2. 

  Jakub Lerner and Tomasz agreed to share supplies and tent. As per their arrangement C1 was to be put up by Tomasz and C2 by Jakub. They made arrangement with Dutch to borrow C3 tent, fixed by Dutch. In previous note he said C3 altitude was 7560m; in fact the altitude was given by Jakub which he did not properly judge and same altitude was copied by Tomasz. In my second visit Tomasz estimated the altitude of C3 correctly which was 7450m. Jakub and Tomasz never climbed or used tents together, because Tomasz was always ahead of Jakub. When Jakub was at C1 Tomasz in C2; when Tomasz was at C1 Jakub was in C2. On Jakub's summit day Tomasz went down to BC. As Tomasz was ahead of Jakub, he missed the ascent time.

  About summit time he confirmed as 1600m with Ronald (first name) of Austrian expedition. I talk to Otto Harrer, leader of the Austrian expedition on May 24 around 16:00 hours at Garden Home. He confirmed that Tomasz and Ronald were on summit together; they were very slow. Also confirmed that Ronald slept at C3 with Tomasz on return from summit and left the camp next day. For C2 Ronald left KTM on the morning of May 24.


expid: CHOY04118
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Borja Pascual
sponsor: Independent climber on Cho Oyu
bcdate: 2004-04-21
smtdate: 2004-05-08
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2004-05-17
campsites: BC(21/04,4900m),ABC(23/04,5700m),C1(29/04,6200m),C2(06/05,7200m),C3(07/05,7500m),Smt(08/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Left C3 at 2:30 am (NST): Pascual and Tharke Sherpa on top 8:00 am (1st toppers that day); saw Everest and Lhotse and down to C2 to sleep. 9 May to ABC. Left ABC only on 17 May because had to wait for yaks to arrive to take their baggage.


expid: CHOY04120
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Austria
leaders: Otto Harrer
sponsor: Austrian Expedition to Mt. Cho Oyu
bcdate: 2004-04-29
smtdate: 2004-05-16
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2004-05-19
campsites: BC(29/04),ABC(03/05,5600m),C1(08/05,6400m),C2(15/05,7000m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Left C2 for top at 3:00 am NST, top 12:30 pm (saw Everest and prayer flags and katas), left prayer flags. Stayed at top about hour in slight wind, no clouds. Returned to C2 at 16:30 pm. 17 May to ABC.


expid: CHOY04121
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Mark Whetu
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Cho Oyu Expedition 2004
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 2004-04-07
smtdate: 2004-04-28
termdate: 2004-05-04
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to strong winds and members' wishes
campsites: BC(07/04,4800m),ABC(14/04,5200m),C1(21/04,6400m),C2(28/04,7100m),xxx(28/04,7100m)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  3 nights in C2 and down on 2 May, because winds too strong to ABC and BC 4 May. Members had no more time and patience to go back up.


expid: CHOY04122
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Jamie McGuinness
sponsor: Project Himalaya Cho Oyu 2004
countries: Australia, Luxembourg, Switzerland, USA
bcdate: 2004-04-20
smtdate: 2004-05-14
smttime: 1215
termdate: 2004-05-19
campsites: BC(20/04,4910m),ABC(25/04,5720m),C1(01/05,6380m),C2(12/05,6980m),C3(13/05,7500m),Smt(14/05)
accidents: Only bad diarrhea
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  Left C2 for top on 14 May at 6:30 am. Gygax turned back at 7600m (exhausted); summit party got to top 12:15 pm and saw Everest and Lhotse when clouds cleared and down to C3.

  Other members suffered from bad diarrhea.

  Oxygen: 
    Mrs Carlyle from C3 to top to C3 and Gygax for couple of minutes at 7600m.

  Barnes  left expedition 7th May (father died).
  Briscoe left expedition 7th May (not competent enough, couldn't use crampons)
  Clayton left expedition 12th May (no longer strong and knew had no possibly to summit)
  Hoss    left expedition 12th May (diabetic and couldn't manage his sugar level at altitude)


expid: CHOY04116
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Sweden
leaders: Olof Sundstrom
sponsor: Expedition: Unum, Sed Luonum (One, But a Lion)
bcdate: 2004-04-16
smtdate: 2004-04-22
termdate: 2004-04-23
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to severe pulmonary edema
campsites: BC(16/04,5000m),ABC(18/04,5736m),C1(21/04,6400m),xxx(22/04,7200m)
accidents: Sundstrom's pulmonary edema
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  Intended to ski down from summit and carried his skis to his high point 7200m. Realized that night (22 Apr) he had severe pulmonary edema, so climb finished.

  Made depot half very to C1 on 18Apr. 20 Apr reached C2 and made depot, back to C1 very tired, down for ABC, but so very tired made biv at about 5900m, slept an hour, difficulty breathing, 4-1/2 hours to descend to C1 (normally takes 1 hour) and called in weaker voice for doctor saying had pulmonary edema. Dutch doctor took him into his tent, put him on oxygen at 3:30-4:00 am, slept well woke at 8:00 am and Dutch Sherpas got 8 Tibetans to carry him on their backs (95 kg) to spot halfway between BC and ABC where Jeep picked him up and drove him to Zangmu.


expid: CHOY04119
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Alberto Magliano
sponsor: International Cho Oyu Expedition Spring 2004
approach: Kodari->Zangmu->Nylam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2004-04-16
smtdate: 2004-04-22
termdate: 2004-04-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to sickness (voice gone down)
campsites: BC(16/04,4900m),ABC(18/04,5600m),C1(22/04,6300m),xxx(22/04,6300m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Domenico Sturla seemed affected by his altitude sickness, while going to ABC from CBC - he could not walk properly. However his sense was Ok and he could talk properly. Next day he was carried down by porter to CBC. Probably left same day from CBC. He arrived KTM on 20th April; no idea when he left Nepal. 

  Magliano went up to C1, slept on 21st. He got sore throat (voice totally gone), rested some days at ABC, Probably left on 30th for KTM. No idea when he left.


expid: DHA104101
peakid: DHA1
year: 2004
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Josep Pujante
sponsor: Dhaulagiri Expedition 2004
ascent1: 114
countries: Argentina
bcdate: 2004-04-15
smtdate: 2004-05-14
smttime: 1550
termdate: 2004-05-18
campsites: BC(15/04,4700m),C1(27/04,5900m),C2(29/04,6500m),C3(12/05,7400m),Smt(14/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site on moraine in middle of glacier below icefall
  C1 slightly above NE Col
  C2 on NE Ridge where ridge turns to right.

  After BC established, a lot of snowfall while fixed rope in icefall and deposit set at 5500m. Also delayed two days for puja. On 11 May set temporary C3 at 7200m and next day moved to permanent C3. Arias and Herrera left C3 at 4:00 am and on top at 3:50 pm and down to C3 at 3:00 am of 15th; left top 4:75 pm, but saw Slovenian Mrs Stremfelj fall in [bad] snow-wind conditions because wind blowing away snow and leaving hard ice; at 7600m where this happened, this pair, to avoid falling too, roped together and secured themselves with ice axes in very slow descent. 15th slept few hours and Herrera to C2 to sleep while Arias to C1. 16th in BC and climb finished. 

  Leader Pujante had to leave expedition on 11 April to home and returned 12 May.


expid: DHA104102
peakid: DHA1
year: 2004
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Inigo Altube
sponsor: Beaz Dhaulagiri Expedition
bcdate: 2004-04-15
smtdate: 2004-05-11
termdate: 2004-05-18
termnote: Abandoned at 7280m due to loss of tent
campsites: BC(15/04,4700m),C1(27/04,5900m),C2(29/04,6500m),xxx(11/05,7280m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC on moraine in middle of glacier below icefall
  C1 little above NE Col
  C2 on NE Ridge
  C3 on NE Ridge where ridge turns to right
  High point at NE Ridge.

  While Basarrate, Fernandez and Rodrigo going up from C2 to pitch C3 on 11 May, 7280m on NE Ridge, tent poles not well secured to one man's rucksack fell off and down out of sight, so climb finished because tent in C2 broken by heavy snow while members had been sleeping. At this time, leader was resting in BC with stomach trouble. 

  This team climbed with Spanish-Argentinian team, shared BC but had separate food, gas, tents, etc. Were on same permit.


expid: DHA104103
peakid: DHA1
year: 2004
route1: NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Alan Hinkes
sponsor: Independent climber
ascent1: 116
bcdate: 2004-04-22
smtdate: 2004-05-17
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2004-05-22
campsites: BC(22/04,4900m),C(06/05,5700m),C2(08/05,6500m),C3(16/05,7400m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  BC at normal site (same as Slovenians)
  C1 near NE Col (same as Spanish and Slovenians)
  C2 on NE ridge (same as others)
  C3 on NE Ridge (same as others).

  Hinkes got sick in BC and stayed 2 weeks there. From C2 to BC 9th May. To C1 14th, C2 15th, C3 16th. Pasang Gelu and Hinkes to top midday; left 3:00 am, returned to C3 for night. 18th C3 to C1 and 19th to BC.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Gelu, 40 yrs, Everest X2, Xixabangma


expid: DHA104104
peakid: DHA1
year: 2004
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Andrej Stremfelj
sponsor: Slovenian Dhaulagiri Expedition
ascent1: 113,115
bcdate: 2004-04-18
smtdate: 2004-05-14
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2004-05-19
campsites: BC(18/04,4750m),C1(27/04,5850m),C2(05/05,6500m),C3(13/05,7360m),Smt(14,16/05)
accidents: Sepic serious pulmonary edema; Manfreda fell in ascent; M Stremfelj minor fall in descent
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  C1 at NE Col
  C2 at NE Ridge
  C3 at NE Ridge.

  Sepic lost trail in walk out because trail covered in dense fog and no one knows where; searched for him including from helicopter. Skarja from Slovenian Alpine Federation is now searching by helicopter. Lot of old tents, "bodies everywhere" just below top. Very bad weather in first days of climb with wind and snowfall.


  Tone Skarja, Slovenian Alpine Federation - 1 June 2004: 

  Continued searching on the ground and from low lying helicopters for 23 hours of flights; found no traces, of Sepic. Have posted notices with his photo offering $1000 reward posted in many places and police at Jomsom informed.


  Skarja - 18 July 2004 

  Sepic's body found and identified as his by Skarja, who returned from area 17 July. Body was in woods not far above Tukuche village and discovered by shepards who told Dutchman living in Tukuche and he informed police. Sepic had fallen in rocky area trying to take a shortcut; his head smashed so must have died instantly. Body cremated at Tukuche.


expid: DOMK04101
peakid: DOMK
year: 2004
route1: E Ridge from S
nation: Spain
leaders: Carlos Soria
sponsor: Spanish Geographical Society to Dome Kang
approach: Helicopter to Ghunsa->Pangpema
bcdate: 2004-04-18
smtdate: 2004-05-18
termdate: 2004-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6650m due to route problems and lack of time
campsites: BC(18/04,4550m),C1(22/04,5350m),C2(03/05,6100m),xxx(18/05,6650m)
accidents: Goded serious tooth problem and went to Kathmandu dentist (not to climb)
achievment: 1st attempt on mountain
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Pangpema
  C1 at Jongsang Glacier below junction with W. Langpo Glacier
  C2 at Jongsang La on Dome Kang's East Ridge.

  Above Jongsong La had ice but using 2 hard tools could climb it slowly; immediately above La very complicated terrain of mixed rock and snow and broken ice so climbed 350m on south side of ridge, then onto East Ridge and then with hanging snow glacier, on north side. Above this big glacier on North Face of snow and ice. Stopped on this face 300m below plateau; climbed South Face 350m, 50m ridge and 100m north side's hanging glacier. Stopped at 6650m; clouds covering then and snowfalling. Team did have enough time to solve problems of last 300m to plateau, which even in good weather would have taken 4-5 days to climb. Down to C2 on 18th and BC 19th. From BC to C2 extremely difficult unsettled rocky area 14 km distance for 1800m altitude gain. 

  Want to return to same route next year to finish it and give selves more time.


expid: EVER04122
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Mexico
leaders: Guillermo Carro Blaizac
sponsor: Independent climber
bcdate: 2004-04-04
smtdate: 2004-05-20
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2004-05-25
campsites: BC(04/04),ABC(16/04,6400m),C1(17/05,7000m),C2(18/05,7900m),C3(19/05,8200m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Started for top at 11:30 pm later on 19th, on top between 10:00 and 11:00 am, to C3 at 8:00 pm late because of helping Bulgarian Hristo to descend (he later died), but slept outside tent and crawled into it on 21st and stayed in tent all day of 22nd. 

  Changhe's members asked Brice to ask Sherpa to look for him and they found him still in his tent, mentally confused but basically okay. Dawa Nuru from Gheorge Dijmarescu's expedition, Ang Mingma of Meggitt-Lochner expedition went to C2 and in hip deep snow on up to C3, found Carro still there cooking placidly, forced him to pack up, put him on oxygen and he walked from C3 to C1 escorted by Sherpas, who there bringing down tents and gear; suffered medium frostbitten fingers.


expid: EVER04123
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Henry Todd
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Everest Expedition
countries: Australia, France, USA
bcdate: 2004-04-05
smtdate: 2004-05-16
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2004-05-26
campsites: BC(05/04),C1(10/04,6100m),C2(14/04,6400m),C3(20/04,7300m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 at West Cwm
  C3 at Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  16th May summit party left C4 for top at 9:30 pm on 15th and to top: Mrs Todd at 7:00 am with Pasang Nuru (aka Ang Nuru); Jack 8:00 am with Pasang Dawa and Pasang Chhiri and Jen; Atkins between 9:30 and 10:00 am and all to C4 that night.

  24th summit party C4 9:50 pm 23rd and Saunders, Oliver Burr, Gurmi Dorje on top 8:10 am of 24th; Deegan and Lhakpa Thundu at 9:00 am. All down to C4 from top at 9:15 am and got C4 about 1:30 pm and slept there. 

  2nd summit attempt had been made by all 24th summiters and Charles Burr left for top on 19 May at 9:30 pm and at 8500m below balcony at 2:00 am; strong wind and spindrift and down to C3 and C2.

  Summit Sherpas: 
    Pasang Dawa, 18/1/77, Pangboche, Everest X4, Lhotse X1, Cho Oyu X3
    Pasang Nuru, 11/2/66, Pangboche, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2
    Gurmi Dorje, 23/7/76, Pangboche, Everest X2
    Lhakpa Thundu, 20/5/70, Pangboche, Everest X1, Anna X1

  Oxygen: 
    All members in all 3 summit bids from C3, to and in C4, to top to C4 and 
       in C4 if any left
    All Sherpas from C4 to top to C4

  Carr left about 20 April - no motivation.
  Clemenson left 18 April - reason unknown, he just suddenly left.
  Piper left about 20th April - not well.


expid: EVER04102
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Jeffrey Justman
sponsor: Mountain Link Everest Expedition
countries: Malta
bcdate: 2004-04-03
smtdate: 2004-05-16
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2004-05-20
campsites: BC(03/04,5464m),C1(20/04,6005m),C2(22/04,6523m),C3(13/05,7315m),C4(14/05,7925m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Nomad Expeditions
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 at usual campsite
  C2 at usual campsite
  C3 at usual site
  C4 at South Col.

  Justman and Sherpas left C4 at 9:30 pm of 15th, summited at 6:30 am on 16th, stayed 20 minutes,  descended to South Col about 12 noon all together. Weather was great. Next day to BC. Justman plans to come next spring for Lhotse. 

  About other members:
    Gardner (BC only) bored - left BC on April 24.
    Hughes suffered from pulmonary edema on April 22 night at C2, sent down to BC 
      on 23rd, evacuated to KTM by helicopter the next day.    

  The expedition returned to KTM on 23 and leaving on 24th.

  5 Sherpas were shared by Van Hoy and Justman teams. They are: 
    Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa
    Tendi Sherpa (37)
    Dawa Sherpa (41)
    Ngawang Dorje Lama (38)
    Kale Sherpa - only up to C3 (no other mountain summit)
        
  Summit Sherpas:
    Ngawang Dorje Lama, 28/1/63, Tiplang, Dhading Dist, 1st 8000er
    Lhakpa Nuru, 25/9/72, Yilagung, near Thami, Everest X3


  Lhawang Dhondup summited on 22 May 2003 with Benjamin Clark (same as Ngawang Dorje). Another website says Ben Clark summited with Lhawang Dhondup.


expid: EVER04103
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Vernon Tejas
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Everest Expedition 2004
countries: Canada, Japan
bcdate: 2004-04-10
smtdate: 2004-05-24
smttime: 0909
termdate: 2004-05-27
campsites: BC(10/04),C1(19/04,6100m),C2(20/04,6500m),C3(06/05,7200m),C4(22/05,7900m),Smt(24/05)
accidents: Only 2 members respiratory problems
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefll
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Summit party, 8 Sherpas and Jim Williams left C4 at 10:00 pm for top; Williams dropped out at 8150m with respiratory problem and back to C4 alone. All others to top: all members except Williams, Stawiecki and 8 Sherpas at 9:09 am. All slept in C4 4th; all to C2 25th. 

  Oxygen: all members summit party and Williams in C3 to C4, in C4 to top, to and in C4, and to C3, and to C2 by some; All Sherpas in summit from C4 to top to C4.

  Stawiecki left expedition in early, May with respiratory problem.

  Sherpa Summiters:
    Kami Rita, aka Topke, 17/1/70, Thami, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X1
    Lhakpa Rita, 9/9/66, Thami, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X2
    Mingma Chhiri, 22/7/68, Everest X5
    Pasang Sona, aka Ang Sona, 21/7/77, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1
    Tshering Dorje, 20/7/70, Kharikhola, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X1
    Pemba Rinzi, 25/11/74, Kharikhola, Everest X5, Lhotse X1
    Mingma Dorje, 28/5/69, Waku (Kharikhola), 1st 8000er
    Tsheri, 31/5/73, Thami, 1st 8000er


expid: EVER04104
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Wilco van Rooijen
sponsor: Friesche Vlag Breaker Everest Expeditie 2004
approach: Kodari->Zangmu->Nylam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2004-04-05
smtdate: 2004-05-20
smttime: 0745
termdate: 2004-05-26
agency: Mt. Pumori Adventures (Monterosa Treks pmt)
campsites:
  BC(05/04,5200m),ABC(09/04,6400m),C1(20/04,7000m),C2(06/05,7400m),C3(07/05,7900m),C4(19/05,8350m),Smt(20/05)

routememo:
  BC at CBC
  IC on Apr 8 at 5800m.

  May 20, Van Rooijen and Dawa left C4 at 10:45 NST, summited at 7:45 am, stayed about 10-15 mintues, back to C4 at 15:45 hours. Spent night in C4 without sleeping bag. Next day Van Rooijen to North Col, Dawa to ABC. Good weather on summit day but lots of hanging clouds - could not see other mountains. 

  When Van Rooijen and Dawa reached the summit the American (Connecticut) expedition members were about to descend. George Dijmarescu was among them on summit, Norwegian woman with oxygen too was there on summit. On summit the American expedition was performing prayers for one of the lamas with prayer flags. Other group was of Russell Brice on summit. It was very cold on the summit. 

  Snelder went up to 8400m on 20th; he got his fingers very cold (the fingers were frostbitten from last expedition); went back to C4 and at sunrise descending to C3.

  Van Rooijen became the 14th person in the world to have 3 Poles.

  Sherpa:
    Dawa Gel Sherpa (18-06-1973) from Makalu
      (first Sherpa from Makalu area to reach summit of Everest without oxygen)
    Prem Lakpa Sherpa went upto C1

accidents:
  Doorakkers twisted ankle while descending from C2 to C1 on May 7 (rested for one week, but could not attempt for summit)


expid: EVER04105
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Greece
leaders: Konstantinos Tsivelekas
sponsor: Hellas Everest 2004
countries: Cyprus, UK
bcdate: 2004-04-14
smtdate: 2004-05-18
smttime: 0715
termdate: 2004-05-23
campsites: BC(14/04),ABC(14/04,6400m),C1(26/04,7050m),C2(16/05,7900m),C3(17/05,8300m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col.

  Summit push from C2 and C3 same day: Tilios, Tsivelekas and Pemba left C2 at 7:30 pm; Tilios stopped at 8300m because never using any oxygen; all other summiters left from C3 at 11:00 pm. 

  Tsianos on top 7:15 NST (left C3 11:00 pm), Argyris on top at 7:40 am and Apostolopoulos on top at 8:00 am; Tsianos descended to C2 that day, other 2 members to C3 at 2:30 pm. 

  Oxygen used: 
    Tilios none at all.
    Apostolopoulos and Argyris from C2 to top to C3 climbing and sleeping.
    Tsianos from 7500m to top to C2 climbing and sleeping.
    All Sherpas in summit bid from C3 to top to C3, not sleeping in C3, 
      from C3 to C2.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Pemba Chhoti, Beding, 23 years old, Everest 26/5/03 
    Lhakpa Nuru, Thami, 1971, 1st 8000er
    Ang Pasang, Jubing, 22/7/69, Everest 23/5/01
    Serap, Beni VDC, Solukhumbu, 8/8/73, 1st 8000er

accidents:
  Tsianos snowblind on 18 April below first step in descent; Chisti stomach ache (left expedition about 5 May)


expid: EVER04106
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Hugues d'Aubarede
sponsor: Tibet 2004
bcdate: 2004-04-10
smtdate: 2004-05-17
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2004-05-24
campsites: BC(10/04),ABC(17/04,6400m),C1(29/04,7000m),C2(15/05,7700m),C3(16/05,8300m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col.

  Summit bid by both members from C3 at 1:00 am NST with 2 Sherpas. Guillemette and Pasang Dawa stopped at 8600m ot 6:30 am because toes cold and cloudy. D'Aubarede on top 1:00 pm with Ang Babu; here Ang Babu put on his lama robe and left flag with Dalai Lama. Returned to C3 8:00 pm with headlamp. 18th to C2 because windy and both very tired. 19th Guillemette in C1 and d'Aubarede to ABC.


expid: EVER04107
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Bulgaria
leaders: Metodi Savov
sponsor: Bulgarian Everest Expedition
approach: Kodari->Zangmu->Nylam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2004-04-08
smtdate: 2004-05-18
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2004-05-26
campsites: BC(08/04,5100m),ABC(14/04,6400m),C1(23/04,7000m),C2(07/05,7700m),C3(17/05,8300m),Smt(18,20/05)
accidents: Petkov's blindness; Hristov died during descent
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC on 13th at 5900m
  C1 at North Col
  C2 at usual campsite.

  Totev and Tendi Sherpa left C3 at 11:30 pm (NST) on 17th, summited at 08:30 am on 18th, stayed about 45 minutes, descended to C3 between 4-5 pm. Next day to C1. Weather was very good. About 10 people were on summit - 2 Indians, 2 British and Sherpas. 

  Boyanov and Hristov left C3 at midnight Chinese Time (9:45 NST) of 19th without oxygen. Boyanov summited at 9:20 am on 20th, stayed about 15-20 minutes descended to C3 at 3 pm; Hristov summited at 1 pm. Hristov did not return to lower camp. One of Brice Sherpas found his body right above the Second Step on May 22nd. 

  Petkov left C3 at 3 am on 20th, summited at 9:00 am with oxygen. Stayed on summit more than one hour waiting for somebody to help to snap his picture. His own camera had battery problem. He returned to C3 at 2:45 pm. At C3 started problem with his eyes (blindness). Boyanov and Petkov waited for Hristov, but he did not show up. On 21st Boyanov reported to expedition leader Savov over radio that Hristov is missing. Boyanov, on 21st went out searching Hristov up to 8500m - had to return to C3 due to bad weather. Also, Boyanov had to help Petkov who suffered from blindness to descend to lower camp; weather was not good on that day. Boyanov and Petkov descended to C1.

  Oxygen used: Totev used oxygen from C2 7700m to summit and down to C2. Also used for sleep. Petkov used oxygen from C3 to summit and to C3, also for sleep. Tendi used oxygen from C3 to summit and back to C3. Boyanov and Hristov never used oxygen.

  Other members: Miss Misheva went up to C2 on 8th, suffered from chest pain while at North Col on 15th, left for ABC. Leader Savov up to ABC. Expedition doctor up to ABC. Temelkov went up to 8400m on May 22, had to return C3 due to bad weather. Zhelyazkov went up to 8200m on 21st with Temelkov and Valtchev, started vomiting, then went down to C2. Valtchev went up to 8500m twice on May 22 and 30th. Valtchev returned to KTM on June 4 leaving on 10th (talked to him on June 4th over telephone).

  The expedition members (8) returned to KTM on May 27 and to leave on 30th.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Tendi Sherpa, 27/10/83, Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha, 1st 8000er, 
      now KTM Boudha, Mahankal, KTM, summit on May 18
    Nima Nuru Sherpa, with his expedition up to 7000m


expid: EVER04108
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Jose Sanz
sponsor: Independent climber
bcdate: 2004-04-05
smtdate: 2004-04-23
termdate: 2004-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to bad weather and time constraint
campsites: BC(05/04,5200m),IC(08/04,5800m),ABC(09/04,6420m),C1(15/04,7050m),C2(23/04,7500m),xxx(23/04,7500m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC at CBC, Int Camp on April 8 at 5800m
  C1 at North Col
  C2 at usual campsite.

  Started for summit bid from ABC on May 19. Slept in C1. Next day weather was bad wind and snow, spent night. On 21st Sanz tried to reach C2 but had to retreat due to bad weather to ABC. "No Sherpa - no oxygen - no summit." Sanz said.

  About the missing Bulgarian woman Maslarova, Sanz said he saw from his tent on the morning of May 20, Maslarova and her Sherpa preparing to go up. The Sherpa told her to use oxygen as she was very slow. She told her Sherpa that she will not use oxygen from low altitude because she wants to use it for summit day only. Sanz also said that Alex, leader of Russian Everest 1000 Expedition, told him that he had talked to Maslarova probably on 24th (Sanz does not remember  the date) in North Col - she was in her tent. Sanz did not keep note book - all his information are by his memory. Sanz leaves on June 6.


expid: EVER04109
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Bulgaria
leaders: Mariana Maslarova
sponsor: Independent climber
approach: Kodari->Zangmu->Nylam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2004-04-07
smtdate: 2004-05-23
termdate: 2004-05-30
termnote: Disappeared at 8700m
campsites: BC(07/04,5200m),ABC(13/04,6400m),C1(20/04,7100m),C2(20/04,7800m),C3(22/04,8300m),xxx(23/04,8700m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 12th at 5600m
  C2 at North Col
  High point at Third Step.

  According to Maslarova's Sherpa, Mingma Dorje, she was last seen on Third Step on May 23 by Russell Brice through his telescope at about 2:30 pm (NST). Mingma said she was very slow. For instance on April 20, Mingma and Maslarova planned to go to C1 from ABC and to return to ABC. But Maslarova took 8 hours to reach to C1 and had to sleep, both of them in C1, as it was too late to return to ABC. 

  On May 20th it took her 11 hours to reach C2 from C1. At C2 Maslarava started vomiting. Mingma worried about her condition asked her if she was Ok. She told Mingma that she was Ok. Vomit came not due to altitude but from the fluid in her nose passed on to throat. 

  On May 21 Mingma went to C3 and set up the camp for her. Mingma said he waited for five hours at C3, but Maslarova did not show up. Then Mingma went down to look for Maslarova. Mingma met her at about 7900m and both went down to C2. Mingma suggested her not to try for summit as he feels she is very weak and very slow. Same was suggested to her by Studer couple, who told Maslarova that the couple have been on Everest for eight times and they had very little opportunity to go for summit without oxygen and considering her speed Studer suggested Maslarova to give up for this time. But Maslarova insisted that she must try for summit because lot of people helped her financially and morally for the expedition and she had to do it.

  Maslarova bought two oxygen bottles from Russian Expedition intending to used for summit. She asked Mingma to help arrange to put one bottle of oxygen bottle for her at bottom of the Second Step and that she could summit. Mingma managed to put up a bottle of oxygen through his Sherpa friend working for the Russell Brice expedition. Mingma said while she was below the Second Step it was already late to continue further. Brice expedition members asked her to turn down as it was already late. But she insisted to go up. After that nobody has seen her. The climbers who went up after 23rd, did not see any sign of her. Mingma waited for any news about her; finally they reported to Dawa (KTM) about Maslarova's missing through Brice's telephone on 26th or 27th (Mingma could not remember exact date). Mingma is thankful to Brice for his help and also for allowing his telephone without charge.

  Russian expedition leader Abramov went up to summit on 24th. He did not find any sign of Maslarova, but he saw the dead body of Hristov (Bulgarian). Mingma Dorje was not with her in her climb above C2 because his role from ABC up was only to pitch C2.

  Mingma Dorje Sherpa, (1967-12-31), Yulkiding, Khumjung, Khumbu
    (summited Cho Oyu in 2002 with Heider/Germany)


  Mrs Mariana Maslarova, Bulgarian, via Everest's North Col - 1 June, 2004

  Details of climb continued: Information from Russell Brice, veteran leader of North Col expeditions who was present at the time of Mrs. Maslarova's climb.

  On 23 May, a summit party of 20 people from Brice's expedition, during their descent of the Second Step, met Mrs. Maslarova there at 1:30-2:00 pm NST and told her to turn back and return to her camp because she was extremely slow and it was too late for her to get to the summit. But she continued her ascent.

  Brice watched her through his telescope, saw her take one step, fall down, get up, take another step, fall down again, time afer time. At about 5:30 pm (by which time he had seen her throw away her oxygen bottle), he saw her at the top of the Third Step (8700m) and below the snow covered area. Now there was no visibility.

  Next morning, on the 24th, Brice searched with this telescope everywhere but saw no trace of her, and his own summit party that day also found no trace of her. While on the top, they asked summiters from the SE Ridge whether they had seen anything of her, and they said they had not.

  Her Sherpa told Brice he had told her early in the her climb that she was too slow and must turn back, but she ignored his advice; she bought some oxygen bottles and continued to go up. On about 10 May, her Sherpa took her oxygen bottles ot 8300m and pitched her tent there, but he refused to stay with her above this C3 because, he told Brice, he didn't want to die too.


expid: EVER04110
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Alexander Abramov
sponsor: Russian Adventure Team Everest Tibet Side 2004
countries: Italy, USA, Uzbekistan
approach: Kodari->Zangmu->Nylam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2004-04-13
smtdate: 2004-05-24
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2004-06-03
campsites: BC(13/04,5200m),ABC(18/04,6400m),C1(25/04,7000m),C2(30/04,7700m),C3(23/05,8300m),Smt(24-25/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 Moskalev, Gaidamak, D'Angelo
  C2 same
  C3 Abramov, Rozhkov, Ryzhenko.

  Group 1 started 23 May from C3 at 10:45 pm NST, summited at 9:00 am, stayed 30 minutes, made 3 pictures. Visibility was very good, came back to C2 at 5-6 pm. 30 climbers on the top.

  Group 2 started from C3 at 4 am Chinese time (1:45 am NST), summited at 10 am (7:45 am NST). Came back to ABC at 8 pm (5:45 pm NST).

  Sherpas:
    Dorje Sherpa, Thami, 21/6/80, 1st 8000er
    Pemba Tenzing, Thamo, 23/3/76, Everest 20/5/03


expid: EVER04111
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Brazil
leaders: Paulo Coelho
sponsor: Dream Everest Expedition 2004
approach: Kodari->Zangmu->Nylam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2004-04-28
smtdate: 2004-05-23
termdate: 2004-05-28
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to weather conditions, too strong wind
campsites: BC(28/04,5200m),ABC(02/05,6400m),C1(07/05,7000m),C2(17/05,7800m),xxx(23/05,8000m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Started from C2 at 4 am, reached high point at 8000m at 12 NST, returned to C2. Tried two times; slept 4 nights in C2 waiting for good weather. It was too dangerous to climb without oxygen.

  Collected the passport of the deceased Bulgarian woman on 26 May in ABC. Mingma Dorje helped to collect her stuff.


expid: EVER04112
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Josef Einwaller
sponsor: Dream Everest 2004
bcdate: 2004-04-22
smtdate: 2004-05-03
termdate: 2004-05-05
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to weather not good and son came to North Col on trek
campsites: BC(22/04),ABC(28/04),C1(03/05),xxx(03/05,7000m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  3 May to North Col and then down with his son, who was on trekking permit to North Col.

  Furba Tundu stayed on the mountain after Einwaller left and tagged along with Sherpa friends on Indian Navy expedition led by Satyabrata Dam and summited with them on 18 May.

  Sherpa:
    Furba Tundu Sherpa, Beding, 1975-76


expid: EVER04113
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Wilfried Studer
sponsor: Dream Everest 2004
bcdate: 2004-04-29
smtdate: 2004-05-18
termdate: 2004-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to high winds
campsites: BC(29/04),ABC(04/05,6400m),C1(06/05,7000m),C2(17/05,7750m),xxx(18/05,8100m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col.

  On 7th May both Studer from C1 to 7500m and back to ABC because strong wind. Started from BC 14 May; 15th to ABC; 16th to North Col camp. 17th to Indian Navy's C2 at 7750m. 17th left C2 at 11:00 pm NST for top but at 4:00 am to 8050m and down because windy and too late to get to top and without oxygen not possible to make only C4 again to Indian Navy camp for night. 18th again up to 8100m, "too strong wind; left C4 18th 9:00 am for top at 8100m 11:30 am and down to ABC for night. Climb finished. This was the 8th time tried to climb Everest from north without oxygen; next time will go to Everest south side. Both Studers climbed together all the time.


expid: EVER04114
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Kilian Volken
sponsor: Swiss Everest Expedition 2004
countries: Austria
approach: Lukla->Island Peak->Everest BC
bcdate: 2004-04-18
smtdate: 2004-05-16
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2004-05-18
campsites: BC(18/04,5360m),C1(25/04,5950m),C2(26/04,6460m),C3(07/05,7150m),C4(15/05,7930m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 at usual campsite
  C2 at usual campsite
  C3 at little lower than other camps
  C4 at South Col.

  May 15 arriveed C4 about 13:00 hours. There was high wind till 19:00-19:30 hours. Started all three from C4 at 21:30 hours, summit at 06:00 hours of May 16, stayed one hour and 15 minutes on summit. Clear weather-no wind. Took off oxygen, hand gloves. "It was wonderful." After a while there were one Sherpa and one Greek came over. The pictures on laptop shown to me were beautiful. Then came two Sherpas and a British or American. Both descended to C2 at 16:30 hours. Next day to BC. Both members met their Sherpa Lila at South Summit while descending, Lila stayed in C4. He was very exhausted. First Swiss team to summit of the season.

  Gschwendtner, born in Austria, now is citizen of Austria and Switzerland, he lives in Switzerland. They wish to know the number of people from Switzerland and Austria who summited Everest from South and North. 

  The expedition probably leave the country on May 24.


expid: EVER04115
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Giuseppe Pompili
sponsor: Everest 2004 Cresta Nord-Est
bcdate: 2004-04-08
smtdate: 2004-05-18
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2004-05-28
campsites: BC(08/04),ABC(21/04,6400m),C1(25/04,7070m),C2(09/05,7800m),C3(17/05,8250m),Smt(18-20/05)
accidents: Dal Cin frostbite
agency: Sherpa Alpine Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col.

  18th party left C3 at 1:00 am NST 18th and on top at 11:00 am and returned to C3 2:00 pm and stayed there. From C3 to ABC on 19th. 

  Pompili left C3 midnight of 18th and on top 9:30 am of 19th and back in C3 at 1:00 pm and stayed there. Pompili down to C2 20th and ABC 21st.

  Dal Chin left 19th 10:00 pm and on top 7:30 am of 20th and back in C2 at 4:00 pm wind and snowfalling and about visibility; got 6 frostbitten from touching rocks while descending, 2 seriously. Dal Chin to C2 and 22nd ABC.

  Canestri stopped 30m short of the summit at 11:00 am (as acknowledged by leader Pompili on EverestNews.com and by email to Liz Hawley) due to her tiredness and increasing weariness.

  Oxygen: Tossutti, Canestri and Dawa in C3 to top and in C3. Pompili from C3 to top to 8400m. Dal Cin from C3 to top to C3.


  Email from Guiseppe Pompili - 17 Aug 2005

  "Alessandra [Cannestri], according to her report, stopped at about 30m altitude below the summit (i.e., 100-150m distance) on the last flat plateau of the ridge just before the last ice serac, due to her tiredness and increasing weariness. The time was about 11:00 am (Nepali time) on 18th May. At the moment, she was with her friend Marco, who had already reached the top together with their Sherpa Dawa and had begun his descent."


expid: EVER04116
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Paul Koller
sponsor: Everest Expedition
countries: Germany
approach: Lhasa->Shigatse->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2004-04-12
smtdate: 2004-05-17
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2004-05-27
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(12/04,5250m),IC(12/04,5800m),ABC(16/04,6400m),C1(19/04,7000m),C2(06/05,7500m),C3(17/05,7900m),Smt(17/05)

routememo:
  BC at CBC
  IC April 16 at 5800m
  C1 at North Col
  C2 at usual campsite
  C3 at usual campsite.

  May 16 started from ABC both members together. Mees stayed in C2, Koller continued to 7900m, spent some hours in a tent belonging to Russell Brice with his permission. Started from 7900m at 10:30 pm (NST) on 16th and summited between 9:30-10 am stayed about half an hour, while descending met in 3rd Step 2 Austrians and Sherpas. While on summit saw many people descending on south side. Reached C2 20:00 hrs (he thinks). Next day to ABC. 

  Mees waited at C2 for improvement in weather condition. He could not sleep, got thirsty. Then he went down to ABC at 2 am. He did not want to take risk of going up (as a doctor) on the grounds of the crowds ahead. He thought weather would not improve then he gave up on the afternoon of 21st.

  Lhakpa Sherpa up to 8300m.


expid: EVER04117
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Miroslav Hrad
sponsor: International Everest Expedition 2004
approach: Kodari->Zangmu->Nylam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2004-04-05
smtdate: 2004-05-19
termdate: 2004-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due exhaustion and time constraints
campsites: BC(05/04,5200m),ABC(09/04,6400m),C1(21/04,7050m),C2(06/05,7570m),xxx(19/05,7800m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC  at CBC
  ABC at usual campsite
  C1  at usual campsite
  C2  at usual campsite.

  Louka climbed up to 7530m on May 18th, became exhausted and did not continue. Palacky climbed up to 7600m on May 19, then turned back exhausted to C2. On 19th Hrad left alone C2 at 10:00 hours Chinese time to set up C3. He reached to 7800m at 16:00 hours. He could not go further as the load he was carrying was too heavy and decided to return to C2. He arrived at C2 at 16:00 hours. Next day to ABC decided to abandon the expedition as time also was not enough to try the summit again. The expedition arrived to KTM on 27th and will leave Nepal on June 2.


expid: EVER04118
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jacques Marmet
sponsor: Dream Everest Expedition 2004
approach: Lhasa->Shigatse->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2004-04-12
smtdate: 2004-05-18
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2004-05-27
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(12/04,5250m),IC(16/04,5800m),ABC(17/04,6400m),C1(21/04,7000m),C2(07/05,7500m),C3(17/05,8300m),Smt(18/05)

routememo:
  BC at CBC
  IC April 16 at 5800m
  C1 at North Col
  C2 at usual campsite
  C3 at usual campsite.

  Started from C3 at 23:00 hours of 17 May, summit 07:00 of 18th, stayed about 30-40 minutes, about seven people were already there. Some of them descending from summit. Descended to C3 at 16:00 hours. Next day to C1. May 19 weather was very bad, heavy fog, visibility was about 2-3 meters. He had problem of using his looking glass. The weather was good clear sky. The view from summit was beautiful. While descending Marmet met about 5 people coming up. The team returned to KTM on May 28 and leaves on 30th.

  Marmet said that it is Chewang Dorjee's 5th time summit on Everest.


expid: EVER04119
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Viatcheslav Skripko
sponsor: International Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2004-04-07
smtdate: 2004-05-27
smttime: 0815
termdate: 2004-05-31
campsites: BC(07/04),ABC(14/04,6400m),C1(18/04,7000m),C2(21/05,7700m),C3(26/05,8300m),Smt(27/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Skripko alone to C2 on 21st May; 21st to 26th, stayed in C2 waiting for better weather: every morning windy and snowfalling. 26th up to C3 and slept there but found tent had been stolen. Thamserku Trekking Sherpas sold him 3 oxygen bottles and Mazur Sherpas sold him tent. Mazur 3 Sherpas and 1 Tibetan left C3 together with Skripko; left C3 3:00 am Chinese Time (00:45 am NST ). All reached top at 10:30 am Chinese Time (08:15 NST) (only people from Tibetan side to top); no wind and clear sky but cold. Back to C3 because snowfalling now; Skripko to C3 3:00 pm; Sherpas, further in descent, arrived before him. 28th to ABC alone while Sherpas stayed C1 that night. 

  Skripko used oxygen from C2 to C3 and in C3 and to top and in C3 and back to North Col. Skripko and Zadokhin had climbed together there until Zadokhin left on about 7 May not feeling fit and well. They established  ABC and C1 together. Bojoukov and Vasheniuk climbed together but spent much of their time down in BC (not even ABC). While Skripko was still on mountain, they went up from BC only twice: once to ABC and C1, the 2nd time to ABC using oxygen to 7500m then down to ABC same day (date Skripko doesn't remember). When Skripko left ABC to return to KTM, they were still in ABC with plan to try for top in June, but Chinese liaison officer told them they had to leave on 2 June because last expedition had left.

  Bojoukov 10 June 2004: On 14 May Boujoukov and Vasheniuk climbed to 7500m; Vasheniuk went alone to 7700m, returned to 7500m on 16th May. They never went this high again and made no attempt to reach summit in June because of the liaison officer's orders.


expid: EVER04120
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: N Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Daniele Nardi
sponsor: Independent climber on Everest
approach: Lhasa->Shigatse->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2004-04-17
smtdate: 2004-05-19
smttime: 0515
termdate: 2004-05-27
campsites: BC(17/04,5200m),ABC(21/04,6500m),C1(23/04,7000m),C2(27/04,7900m),C3(18/05,8300m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Started from C3 on 18 May at 00:15 Chinese time (10:00 pm NST), reached the summit at 7:30 (5:15 NST) on 19 May with Spanish climber. Stayed for 45 minutes, came down to ABC at 10:15 pm (8:00 pm NST).

  Expedition permit was arranged by Focus from TMA. He is the member of Everest-K2 expedition (Thamserku Trekking in KTM).

  Tibetan Pingzou to C3 only.


  Email to Miss Hawley from Daniele Mardi

  I climbed the mountain alone; I and Catalan girls started from the C3 together. But they have 2 Sherpa and I have not with me Tibetan porter because he hasn't got oxygen and 18 May came down. My Tibetan porter and I, worked with the Sherpa of Italian expedition and we join the work in altitude.

  I use a tent on C3 of Italian expedition because my Tibetan porters work for they to build and I had an accord with them, all other think was my.


  Email from Daniele Nardi - June 16, 2004

  No Sherpa climbed with me, only Ping Zou (this is the naike that he wrote on my dairy). Tibetan porter climb with me but to go from ABC to C3 he stay everytime too far to me because he is more fast than me! Near me when I climbed the summit was the Spanish girl Meite and Nuria and their Sherpa. We arrived to the summit about together and have some photo. I don't remember their name but can ask if you need to Nuria with email.

  In C3 Phinzo bring me 2 oxygen 4 liter and after he comes down. The other thing I bring up.

  The youngest Italian to reach the summit of Everest before this year was Carrel, Rinaldo in May 1973 when he was exactly 21 years old.

  Mastronicola, Claudio did not reach the summit of Cho Oyu in the autumn of 1997. He went up to C3 at 7400m but no higher.


  Email to Ekaterina

  I start from BC 15 May to ABC at 6:30 arrive 13:30 and 16 to C1 start at 10:00 arrive 12:40, and 17 to C2 start at 7:30 to 12:30 approx, and 18 to C3 start about 7:00 arrive 13:00 approx, and 19 go to the summit start at 00:15 and return in the ABC about 17:00-18:00 the same day.

  I began walking from C3 about 00:15 but I wake up at 22:00 because I had an accord with Spanish women to start at 23:00 but their Sherpa was not ready and I wait for 1 hour with Pompii and Marco the other little Italian expedition and we start at 00:15 about. I arrived to the summit about 7:30 with Spanish while Pompii I met him half of snow before summit. I think I stayed 45 minutes stay on the summit.

  I went from C3 to the summit alone because my Tibetan porter have not the oxygen and the day before go down. I went to C3 with big load and than he must help me to load the oxygen to C3. My oxygen for some problem arrived at base camp very very late and than for me was impossible to organize the oxygen load for him. I went up to C3 with Tarcisio Bello after he went down because had some altitude problem.


expid: EVER04121
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Bertrand Roche
sponsor: Antipodes Everest Expedition
countries: Austria
bcdate: 2004-04-12
smtdate: 2004-05-17
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2004-05-18
campsites: BC(12/04),ABC(19/04,6400m),C1(01/05,7000m),C2(16/05,7900m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Roche did not climb above North Col becausce of eye problem (small blood vessel broken). 

  Austrians later to C1 because of strong winds before and again very strong in first half of May. Decided not to have C3. 2 Austrians and 2 Sherpas left C2 at 11:00 pm NST for top and were on top 11:00 am (to C3 site in 1-1/2 hours). 

  No one had route above ridge; so waited for Focus expedition to catch up with them. Italian Focus team very slow, so Austrian's Sherpa took ropes from Italians and fixed it; Italians turned back while their rope finished at bottom Second Step at 6:00 am; Sherpa went down a little and moved rope up the step and used it to belay them. Were first from north side to top; back to C1 at about 6:00 pm and ABC 18 May and climb finished and left same day and helicopter from Tatopani.

  Oxygen: Moichi from 7500m, in C2, and to top and down to C1; Klausmer from C2 to top to C2; both Sherpas from C2 to top to C2.


expid: EVER04124
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: S Africa
leaders: Paul Firth
countries: Norway, USA
approach: Kodari->Zangmu->Nylam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2004-04-03
smtdate: 2004-05-20
smttime: 1045
termdate: 2004-05-26
campsites: BC(03/04,5200m),ABC(08/04,6400m),C1(15/04,7050m),C2(16/05,7900m),C3(17/05,8300m),Smt(20/05)
achievment: 1st Norwegian woman
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  ABC all team
  C1  all team
  C2  all without Rzasa
  C3  went down to C2 with staying in C3.

  First Norwegian woman to climb Everest. Ms Skaug started from C3 on 19:05 Chinese time (9:45 pm NST) on 20 May, summited at 1 pm (10:45 am NST), stayed a 30 minutes. No View. Korean climber Kim was at the summit at the same time, she summited later than Skaug. Summited with 2 Sherpas, came down down to C3 at 7 pm.

  Firth reached 8300m on the 17th, 11:45 am.

  Evensen reached 8500m on the 17th, 11:45 am and then abandoned due to bad weather and malfunctioning of British oxygen system.

  Rzasa left BC on 19th, went to C1 and that was enough for him.


  Paul Firth (email) - 15 June 2007

  Corrections and additions:

  We had an additional Sherpa (Pasang Riana Sherpa was his full name I think and I think he had previously summitted Everest, so the correct name should be in your database). He climbed with us to C3 at 8300m (or just above the Exit Cracks on to the summit ridge actually) when we turned around because our camp was not set at C3 as a fall-back reserve. He returned to ABC with Truls and me, and then climbed with us on our second attempt, going up to retrieve the gear from 8300m. We abandoned our second attempt as we ran out of time on our permit; to save
  money we had gone on a group permit with other groups who had set an earlier departure date.

  Injuries on our trip: 
    Paul Firth, superficial frostbite to toes (recovered)
    Randi Skaug, retinal hemorrhage (partial recovery)

  Peter Rsaza abandoned his attempts after reaching 7000m bacause he developed high altitude hack (persistent cough), because he had had chronic diarrhea and because he reckoned he had had enough, and done enough.  

  Our cook boy/assistant cook Densa Bhote also climbed to 7900m although not as an official porter/Sherpa; just a cook boy. I am not sure what his full name is; Tsering will know.

  From Tsering Palden Bhote: We used Poisk oxygen to summit from 7900m.


expid: EVER04125
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Denmark
leaders: Nick Nielsen
sponsor: Independent climber
bcdate: 2004-04-05
smtdate: 2004-04-22
termdate: 2004-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to bad weather and time constraint
campsites: BC(05/04,5200m),ABC(09/04,6400m),C1(14-15/04,7050m),C2(22-23/04,7500m),xxx(22-23/04,7500m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  For the last time Nielsen went up to C1 (thinking to continue for summit) on May 20; weather was bad so he did not stay at C1, but went back to ABC and decided to give up climbing. 

  Nielsen returned to KTM on 27th. He got a seat on plane for May 28. Ganesh from Monterosa told me that Nielsen is suppose to be returning to Marshyangdi Hotel after Nielsen finished cargo to Hotel around 5:20 pm. He told me he had to leave for airport within 15/20 minutes and said that he did not summit. Rest of information he agreed to send by email and wrote his email address and he left for his room with Miss Misheve from Bulgarian expedition who was also waiting for him. Had sent email to Nielsen twice. But no reply received till June 17.

  The camp information based on the information given by Joseba Sanz from Spain. Nielsen and Sanz worked together most of the time on the mountain.


expid: EVER04127
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: N Face (up); NE Ridge-N Col (down)
nation: Russia
leaders: Victor Kozlov
sponsor: Russian Everest Expedition Central North Wall 2004
countries: Uzbekistan
approach: KTM by road to BC
bcdate: 2004-03-30
smtdate: 2004-05-30
smttime: 0745
termdate: 2004-06-04
othersmts: Climbed Ama Dablem (AMAD-041-10)
accidents: Bobok and Jilin hit by falling stones below C1 (had to wait 10 days before going up again)
achievment: 1st ascent of this route to top
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(30/03),ABC1(02/04,5600m),ABC2(03/04,6200m),C1(20/04,7100m),C2(28/04,7500m),C3(11/05,7800m),C4(27/05,8250m),C5(28/05,8600m),Smt(30-31/05,01/06)

routememo:
  BC at normal Everest north site
  ABC1 at east side of Rongbuk Glacier 
  ABC2 between crevasses near bottom of North Face
  C1 on North Face
  C2 on North Face
  C3 on North Face
  C4 on North Face on small rock ledge
  C5 on North Face on small rock ledge.

  2 ABCs because very far from BC to bottom of North Face. To ABC-2 not difficult but very dangerous from stones falling just below C1 in small couloir nearly vertical climb. From C1 to C2 not so steep but rock slabs and thin snow; same condition to C2 and C3. Climbed with very steep grey rock to yellow rock and C4 on small ledge. From C4 up yellow rock all at first also very steep for first 200m, then slope eases off to C4 also on small ledge. Above C4 very difficult technically because vertical rock crumbled and impossible to fix rope. Shabalin made only 50m altitude in one day using belay from C5; did not continue on this direct vertical line because too dangerous and would take at least 2 more days and to gain the next 50m, so now from C5 traversed to left 200m, then circled back around and above crumbling rock area to gain 100m vertical and to return to direct line above C5. From C5 to top not so difficult. In descent all down normal North Col routes. Abramov's North Col expedition left tent for this expedition at 8300m with food, gas oxygen, sleeping bags. This tent used only by 1st summit group who were very tired having fixed ropes below 8500m face and tried to make direct route above C5. 2nd and 3rd summit parties went down from summit to ABC except Volodine who continued to BC same day, 1 June.

  Summit timings: 1st group left C5 7:00 am Chinese time (4:45 am NST), on top 10:00 am (7:45 am NST) and down to 8300m at 2:00 pm (11:45 am NST).
  2nd group left C5 7:00 am, on top 9:15 am (7:00 am NST) and down to ABC 8:00 pm (5:45 NST).
  3rd group left C5 7:00 am, on top 9:00 am (6:45 am NST) and down to ABC 1:45 pm and Volodin at 9:00 pm in BC. Shared ABC with Abramov expedition but on 1 June no room for 2 members, so Volodin had to go to BC.

  Oxygen: 
  Sherpas none.
  Members all from C3 to top all the way (except some did not use it for sleeping) to 8300m by some, for some oxygen ran out before descending to 8300m. In addition, oxygen not used by members fixing rope from C3 to C4 and at 8600m while fixing rope.


expid: EVER04128
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Soro Dorotei
sponsor: Focus Everest Expedition
countries: China
approach: Lhasa->Shigatse->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2004-04-17
smtdate: 2004-05-22
smttime: 0945
termdate: 2004-05-27
campsites: BC(17/04,5200m),ABC(21/04,6500m),C1(22/04,7050m),C2(23/04,7900m),C3(16/05,8300m),Smt(22,24-25/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  24 May group started from C3 at 01:45 (Nepali time), summited at 9:45-10:00 am, stayed for 2-1/2 hours without oxygen. For research of Everest altitude with without snow cap for Trieste University, returned to C3 6-7 pm.

  25 May group started from C3 at 12:00 am, summited at 8:30 am, stayed for 1 hour, returned to C3 at 4-5 pm.

  Oxygen:
    Merelli used oxygen from 8500m for climbing summit, down to C3.
    Bello and Confortola used oxygen from C3, summit, down to C3.

  Summit Sherpas
    24 May - Serap Jangbu, 25/7/69, Khumjung, Kangch, K2
    24 May - Lhakpa Tshering, 1975, Khumjung, Everest X1, Annapurna
    25 May - Pemba Nuru, 3/2/73, Pare, Lhotse 15/5/00, Everest 22/5/03


  From the web:

  The four Tibetans were members (trainees?) from a mountaineering school in Lhasa who helped carry scientific equipment to the summit (presumably for the 2005 China GPS expedition?):

     Khechen (Khetsun?), Lhakee (Laji?), Lhakpa (Laba?), Tashi Tsering (DOB 1966?)


expid: EVER04129
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Satyabrata Dam
sponsor: Indian Navy Mt. Everest North Face Expedition
bcdate: 2004-03-21
smtdate: 2004-05-18
smttime: 0820
termdate: 2004-05-23
campsites: BC(21/03),ABC(15/04,6450m),C1(23/04,7050m),C2(15/05,7900m),C3(17/05,8300m),Smt(18-19/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  1st summit party left C3 at 5:00 am (Indian time) 8th and all on top 8:05 (8:20 NST) to 11:00 am (Indian time): returned to C3 2:30 pm (NST) together, then earlier climbers having waited on top for last two; 2 members and their two Sherpas to C2 to sleep, Bhanoo and 1 Sherpa to C1 to sleep and all to ABC 19th. 

  19th May summit party left C2 11:15 pm (with Italians) on 18th and on top 8:00 (8:15 NST) and 11:30 am IST (Dam with 2 Sherpas Cheddar and Ang Tashi); returned to C3 2:00 pm to Dam at 8:30 pm, (Dam alone, having stopped to look after Korean leader, Baek Joon-Ha, who had spent night out and dieing gave him food, water, his oxygen and extra jacket to put over him, Baek died in Dam's arm; this was just above 2nd Step). Dam had told his 2 Sherpas Cheddar and Ang Tashi who were on Everest for first time very tired to go on down, so without his oxygen and alone Dam was slow to get to C3. Dam and his 2 Sherpas to C2 to sleep while other member Kankan and Tenzing to C2 to sleep. All to ABC on 20th.

  Oxygen: 

  All summit party members in C2, to C3, in C3, to top to C2, except Dam who gave his oxygen to Korean leader Baek as mentioned above; all summit party Sherpas from C3 to top to C3.

  Summit Sherpas:
    Tamtin, 19/13/74, Beding, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X5
    Nima Gyalzen, 18/5/76, Beding, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X1
    Aaj Tenzing, Beding, father-in-law of Tamtin, 12/2/51, 1st 8000er
    Cheddar, Dec 1962, Makalu VDC, 1st 8000er
    Ang Tashi, 18/8/81, Makalu VDC, 1st 8000er
    Nima Tenzi, 24/8/80, Beding, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X2

  Members highest altitudes:
    Chacko to C3
    Kanna to 7200m
    Kumar to 7500m
    Pande to 6800m
    Singh Alok Kumar to intermediate camp at 5850m
    Srinivas to 7600m
    Nitin Singh to C1

  Fixed rope from C1 to C2 and 50m at 2nd Step.

  Furba Tundu Sherpa, Beding, 1975-76, stayed on the mountain after Josef Einwaller left and joined with Sherpa friends on Indian Navy expedition led by Satyabrata Dam and summited with them on 18 May.


expid: EVER04130
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: David Pritt
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Everest Expedition 2004
countries: USA
approach: .Shrps
bcdate: 2004-04-08
smtdate: 2004-04-29
termdate: 2004-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to bad weather
agency: Himalayan Guides
campsites:
  BC(08/04,5300m),IC(14/04,5900m),ABC(15/04,6400m),C1(21/04,7010m),C2(20/05,7500m),C3(21/05,7900m),xxx.Shrps(29/04,8300m)

routememo:
  BC at CBC
  IC on 14th at 5900m
  C1 at North Col
  High point at C4 site by Sherpas.

  May 22: Noble and Taylor with five Sherpas left C3 about 9 am (NST), reached to 8000m by 11 am, returned to C1 at about 4 pm. It was supposed to be summit day, but weather remained bad. The members decided just to be at 8000m and return. Next day 23rd, weather was good.

  Donovan left CBC on 29th, 30th to KTM; four days later left Nepal. He suffered from chest infection. On 16th BBC TV team left CBC: The team included Griffiths, Moores, Skelton, Thomson, and Whittle; the team was filming on Griffiths who gave up climbing below C1. 

  On 17th to KTM, 21st left Nepal. The team returned to KTM on 27th. Pritt leaving KTM on 24th Evening, rest of the team members on 4 June.

  C4 pitched at 8300m on 29 Apr but never occupied, 2 members highest point 8000m at 22 May.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Chhiri, summited Everest in 2002 (Leader Geoffrey), 
      Cho Oyu 2003 (Geoffrey), Ama Dablam 2000
    Mingma Nuru Sherpa, Pangboche, 22/4/69
      summited Everest in 2000, 2003 Huygh, Lhotse 2002 with Todd, Cho Oyu
      2001 autumn, Ama Dablam 2003 autumn, Baruntse 2001 (France)
    Mingma Tenzing, 1968, Pangboche
    Phurba Ridar Bhote, Everest in 2001 (Blind American Expedition), 
      Ama Dablam Oct 2001
    Tashi Sherpa, Rolwaling, summited Everest
    Thendup Sherpa, Rolwaling, summited Everest
    Pasang 
    Ngawang, Tibetan


expid: EVER04131
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kenji Kondo
sponsor: Adventure Guides Chomolungma Expedition 2004
approach: Lhasa->Shigatse->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2004-04-25
smtdate: 2004-05-20
smttime: 1047
termdate: 2004-05-26
campsites: BC(25/04,5200m),ABC(03/05,6400m),C1(17/05,7000m),C2(18/05,7800m),C3(19/05,8200m),Smt(20/05)
accidents: Ota fatal fall at Second Step
achievment: Oldest woman on top Everest
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  ABC at 6400m all team and all climbing Sherpas
  C1  at 7000m by Kondo, Ishii, Ota, Takahashi and Sherpas
  C2  at 7800m by same members
  C3  at 8200m by same members.

  Started from C3 at 00:00 am (NST), summited at 10:47, stayed above 10-15 minutes,made pictures. Windy, snowing before them, was 1 Indian member. Came back to C3 at 8:55 pm. Mrs. Ota died when going down from 2nd Step. She used the fixed rope and slipped down 1m, maybe hit her head or more probably "enstranged" herself with the rope and had heart attack. Ota's crampon was trapped in a bunch of old fixed rope. On 22-23, the 3 Sherpas carried her body 12m lower and burried her. Their descent greatly delayed by Mrs Ota's fatal accident.
   
  Kondo reached Ota in less than 1-2 minutes after the accident, but she was already dead. Other members reached only C2 and after. Knowing about the death of Mrs Ota abandoned the climb.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Chuwang Nima, 20/8/67 (or 4/5/67), Phurte, Everest X10, Cho Oyu X2
    Ngima Nuru, 6/11/81, Thami, Everest X2
    Pema Gyalzen, 20/10/69, Thami, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Nima Nurbu, 20/2/80, Thami [added]

  Kenji Kondo, leader of Everest teams on North Col route in Spring 2004 and 2006 - 23 May 2006.

  Mrs Ota, Mr Takahashi and three Sherpas left C3 to climb to the summit at 11:30-12:00 pm (NST) on 19 May. Three members and the three Sherpas arrived at the summit at 10:30 am on the 20th. Mr Takahashi, Kondo and the three Sherpas returned to C3 at 7:00 pm or slightly later.

  No one member or Sherpas from the expedition went again from C3 during the night of May 20 or before sunrise on the 21st. C3 was at 8200m.


expid: EVER04132
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Chizuko Kono
sponsor: Goodwill Poppy Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2004-04-19
smtdate: 2004-05-20
smttime: 1140
termdate: 2004-05-26
campsites: BC(19/04),ABC(25/04,6300m),C1(07/05,7000m),C2(18/05,7750m),C3(19/05,8300m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Sherpa Summit Treks
routememo:
  C1 at North Col.

  Summit party left C3 for top 12:30 am NST on 19th, on top 11:40 am 20th May and down to C3. 21 May to C2, 22nd to ABC. Started for top good weather, then later many strong winds and snowfalling.

  Summit Sherpas:
    Da Chemba, 20/2/68, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Mingma Nuru, 2/10/69, Jubing, Everest X1
    Pem Tenzi, 24/9/62, Sotang, Cho Oyu X4, Everest X1
    Pemba Sherpa, 4/9/71, Taksindu, Everest X3
    Ang Kami Sherpa, 21/8/82 (05/05/2039), Gudel-5, Solu 
    Pasang Tamang, 4/12/68, Deusa-6, Solu, Everest X1


expid: EVER04133
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Oh Eun-Sun
sponsor: Best of Seven Land Summit to Everest
bcdate: 2004-04-05
smtdate: 2004-05-20
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2004-05-23
campsites: BC(05/04),ABC(10/04,6400m),C1(22/04,7000m),C2(17/05,7800m),C3(18/05,8300m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  Left 19th midnight and arrived top 20th May 11:00 am NST and back at C3 about 10:00 pm, very slow because had use oxygen sleeping in C3 to top but then oxygen finished at top. 21st to ABC.

  So tired could not walk for 5-10 minutes and another time Sherpa had to help her and give her oxygen to get back to C3 on 20th.


expid: EVER04134
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: David Hahn
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Everest Expedition 2004
bcdate: 2004-04-14
smtdate: 2004-05-20
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2004-05-24
campsites: BC(14/04),ABC(20/04,6100m),C1(29/04,7000m),C2(05/05,7900m),C3(18/05,8200m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  Jake Norton had not intended to go top. Both Hahn and Norton looked in yellow band area for Irvine's body and went as high as 8400m but no success on 7th May. 

  Hahn, Danuru and Tashi Tshering left C2 at 19th midnight and on top 7:30 am NST of 20th. 10 or 11 people on top when Hahns and Sherpas arrived at top, all from North side. Slept in ABC, arrived there 7:15 pm.

  Team had large group of people with them who climbed to North Col, as planned, so Norton and Hahn acclimatized when they went higher.

  Oxygen: while searching for Irvine's body and camera, both members and Tashi used it from 7600m to 8400m on 6 and 7 May. Down and both Sherpa on 19/20th in summit bid from 7830m to top and back to C3 by Danuru back to C1 by Hahn and Tashi.

  Sherpas:
    Danuru, Phortse, Everest X4
    Tashi Tshering, Pangboche, Everest X9


expid: EVER04137
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: David Sharp
sponsor: Independent climber on Everest
approach: Kodari->Zangmu->Nylam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2004-04-10
smtdate: 2004-05-17
termdate: 2004-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 8500m due to tiredness and frostbite
agency: Thamserku Trekking
campsites:
  BC(10/04,5170m),IC(16/04,5700m),ABC(17/04,6400m),C1(28/04,7100m),C2(07/05,7700m),C3(16/05,8250m),xxx(17/05,8500m)

routememo:
  BC at CBC
  IC on April 16th at 5700m
  ABC at usual campsite
  C1 at 7100m at usual campsite
  C2 at 7700m at usual campsite
  C3 at 8250m at usual campsite
  xxx at 8500m at just below the 1st Step.

  Sharp left C3 between 12:30-01:00 hours (NST) on 17th, reached to 8500m at 08:00 hours. Weather was nice and warm. He was tired and thought that it was too late to continue and returned to C3 at about 14:00 hours (no idea about exact time). While sleeping his tent came over the platform on which he had pitched his tent - probably, he thinks, he rolled off while sleeping. There was no wind. On 18th he packed his tent and went down to C1. Then he realized that his fingers were frostbitten and decided to call off his summit bid. He was satisfied with the expedition. He is waiting for his belongings that are in C3. 

  Sharp is trying to leave Nepal as soon as possible (Biman Flight). He returned to KTM on May 25.

accidents:
  Frostbitten lefthand thumb, righthand thumb, index & middle fingers (same fingers were frostbitten last year almost at same altitude)


expid: EVER04139
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: James Milne
sponsor: Independent climber
approach: Kodari->Zangmu->Nylam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2004-04-10
smtdate: 2004-05-18
termdate: 2004-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 8500m due to sign of high winds and no more rope
campsites: BC(10/04,5170m),ABC(17/04,6400m),C1(26/04,7080m),C2(15/05,7650m),C3(17/05,8250m),xxx(18/05,8500m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 5170m 
  CBC Intermediate camp on April 16 at 5700m.

  May 18 Milne started with Sherpas at 02:00 hours, reached at 8500m at 05:00 hours, returned to C3 at 07:30, C2 at 14:00 hours. Next day to ABC. According to Milne French team with Sherpas reached summit on 17th. On 18th ahead of Milne were Koreans and Greeks. Milne said on 19th and Spanish and 5 Indian Navy team summited. The Spanish and Indian team members found two Koreans on their way up alive on the traverse (rock). Indian team got telephone number of one of the Korean members. The two Koreans were some how unable to move. Milne returned to KTM on 25th and trying to leave on 28th.


expid: EVER04140
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Daniel Lochner
sponsor: Team Endeavour on Everest
approach: Kodari->Zangmu->Nylam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2004-04-11
smtdate: 2004-05-19
smttime: 1045
termdate: 2004-05-25
campsites: BC(11/04,5182m),ABC(18/04,6492m),C1(06/05,7010m),C2(17/05,7803m),C3(18/05,8291m),Smt(19/05)
achievment: Probably youngest summited
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Two members and two Sherpas left C3 00:10 hours (NST), reached summit at 10:45 hours, stayed an hour (about), back to C3 between 17:30 hours to 18:00 hours. Next day ABC. While members cross the Koreans at about 09:20 hours on their way up. Lochner said he saw Bulgarian woman Maslarova at Second Step heading up on (probably) 21st - alone. The expedition returned to KTM on May 26.

  Nepal summiters:
    Mingma, aka Ang Mingma, 21/2/68, Thami, Everest X3
    Man Bahadur, aka Gopal, 1959, Salleri-5, Everest X3


expid: EVER04141
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Gheorghe Dijmarescu, Lakpa Sherpa
sponsor: Connecticut Everest Expedition
countries: Nepal
bcdate: 2004-04-11
smtdate: 2004-05-20
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2004-05-25
campsites: BC(11/04),ABC(16/04,7000m),C1(29/04,7000m),C2(18/05,7900m),C3(19/05,8300m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Summit party left C3 11:30 pm of 19th, got to top at 7:00 am and all down to ABC from 2:00 pm (Watson) to 8:00 (Lakpa and Rinjen). 

  Oxygen used: members in and from C2 to top and down to ABC (Watson), C2 for others; Sherpas from C3 to top to C3.

  Kodas and Parmenter went to C2 only.

  Summit Sherpas:
    Dawa Nuru, 25/9/53, Thami, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1
    Mingma Gelu, 5/2/79, Tashigaon, Everest X1, (Ms Lakpa's brother)
    Ang Dawa, 27/4/81, Tashigaon, 1st 8000er (Ms Lakpa's cousin)
    Rinjen, 12/2/73, Tashigaon, 1st 8000er

  Ms Lakpa: Dijmarescu's wife and team member.


expid: EVER04142
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Baek Joon-Ho
sponsor: 2004 Keimyung University Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2004-04-05
smtdate: 2004-05-18
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2004-05-21
campsites: BC(05/04),ABC(10/04,6400m),C1(21/04,7000m),C2(16/05,7900m),C3(17/05,8200m),Smt(18/05)
accidents: Fatalities; Lhakpa Gelu frostbite; 2 members snowblind
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  Summit party left C3 at 17th May 10:00 pm NST. Lee turned back at 8500m when decided could not reach top, but too tired to descend so went back to C2 at 8:00 am and down to North Col to sleep. Summit party on top at 10:00 am, started descent at 11:00 am. 12:00 pm Park Mu-Taek got snowblind because had tossed goggles off at top to take pictures and stopped going down; Lhakpa Gyalu had frostbitten 3 fingers and went alone to C3; Jang Min very tired and hypoxia so sat down at 8500m. Baek who was in C3 planning to go top next day, went up from C3 to rescue Jang and reached Park Mu-Taek and gave him oxygen. Took more than 12 hours to get to Park, Baek now very tired; tried to come down with Park, who got snowblind so both collapsed and died. Jang no strength and also collapsed and died.


  23 Oct 2005: Nuru Chhiri claims to have summited with this expedition and trekking agent, Tarka of Windhorse Trekking, says he met both Sherpas after their return to KTM and they agreed that both had summited.

  Sherpa:
    Nuru Chhiri, Churung Kharka, 26/4/70, Lhotse Spr 2003


expid: EVER04143
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Everest Expedition 2003
countries: Australia, Austria, Germany, Japan, Netherlands, Norway, S Africa, UK, USA
bcdate: 2004-04-07
smtdate: 2004-05-23
smttime: 0845
termdate: 2004-05-28
achievment: 1st Norwegian woman summiter
agency: Mountain Experience
campsites:
  BC(07/04,5200m),ABC(11/04,6400m),C1(15/04,7000m),C2(20/05,7500m),C3(21/05,7900m),C4(22/05,6300m),Smt(23-24/05)

routememo:
  23rd summit party left 12:30 pm 22nd-23rd (NST) and first ones on top from 8:45 am of 23rd and last one 10:30 am and all people in party did reach top and down to C4.

  24th party all who reached top plus 4 others (see below) left C4 at 1:05-1:55 am of 24th and 10th top at 8:00 am to 9:25 am and Crouse and Marquis to C3, 2 Gambi's to ABC and other members to C4; all Sherpas to ABC. 

  Those in 2nd summit party who did not reach top: 
    Hockey, who had only arm and no prosthesis to 8500m and gave up; 
    Wiper (with Tashi Tshering, Tibetan) to 8600m, developed slight frostbite 
       and eye problem. 

  Oxygen: all members in C3 to highest points and down, until their supplies ran out, some to C3 only, same to C1; all Sherpas and Tibetans used it while fixing rope above 1st Step; all Sherpas and Tibetans in C3 to top to C4. 

  Rope fixed from  bottom of North Col to 500m above it, from 1st to 2nd Steps; expedition also installed a new ladder at 2nd Step that is wider than old Chinese ladder and longer (old one was 405m long, new one is 8m longer); expedition also replaced same inadequate rope fixed this season by another team.

  Members who left early:
    Fouche realized he was in unfit condition for the climb - left 20 April
    Bekker had personal problems at home - left 22 April
    Mansfield had bronchial infection - left 17 April
    Tait went to BC only, personal problem at home - left 13 April

  Mayer reached only ABC, but stayed with the expedition till the end. 
  Kraus reached C1 only.


expid: EVER04144
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: SummitClimb Everest Expedition 2004
countries: Australia, Canada, France, Germany, Ireland, Netherlands, New Zealand, S Africa, UK
approach: By helicopter to point near border
bcdate: 2004-04-14
smtdate: 2004-05-18
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2004-06-01
agency: Everest Parivar
campsites:
  BC(13-Sherpas,14/04,5400m),ABC(18/04,6400m),C1(20-Sherpas,20/04,7050m),C1(22-members,22/04,7050m),C2(01/05,7600m),C3(17/05,8300m),Smt(18,20,27,29/05)

routememo:
  Details of Climb by Mazur's spring 2004 Everest Expedition:

  Four summit parties made bids for top and all put someone on top:

  First summit party left C3 on 17th May at 10:00 pm (NST) and all reached summit at noon on 18th. They were members Mislow, Haines, Waters, Pitula, Lhakpa Temba Sherpa and Tibetans Nurbu Tsipe and Dorje Karsang. All returned to C3 for the night except the two Tibetans, who went down to C2.

  Second summit party left C3 on the 19th at 11:00 pm, but only member and one Sherpa in the party actually summited (on the 20th). The others in the party were the brothers Andrew and Ian Prentice, Briggs, Drummond, Miller with Pemba Gyalzen Sherpa and Luda, a Tibetan. The weather that day was bad: wind and snowfall. Ian Prentice reached top of 3rd Step (8690m) alone at noon on the 20th, radioed to Mazur that he was afraid to go on up in such weather and asked whether he should go down instead; Mazur said he should, and Prentice went back to C3. Briggs had turned back at the 1st Step (8500m) at about 10:00 am with asthma attack. Drummond, who stumbled here and fallen slightly, turned back at the same point at about 11:00 am. Andrew Prentice and Miller turned around at 8450m. Prentice had been vomiting the day before and was a bit weak, Miller was uncomfortable wearing oxygen mask. Bredenkamp and Lhakpa Chiring went to the top at 2:30 pm despite the terrible weather. All in this party slept the night in C3.

  Third Summit party left C3 at 1:00 am on the 27th. They were members Horvath and Meyer; Sherpas Jangbu, Ang Phuri, Gyaluk, Tshering Dorje, Tenzing (Thami) and Tenji, and Tibetans Yunden and Wangdu. All climbed fast and reached the summit at 7:00 am. The two members descended all the way to the ABC with three Sherpas and both Tibetans while three other Sherpas stayed at C3.

  Fourth summit party left C3 at 11:15 pm on the 28th, and all except Spear reached the top in two groups on the 29th: Berg at 5:35 am with Tibetans Awang Norbu, Puba Tshering and Tashi Namgyal; Coster at 6:35 am with Sherpas Lhakpa Ongyal and Tenzing (Tumlingtar). All to ABC except Tenzing Ongyal, who stopped at C1. Spear turned back at 8400m.

  Oxygen use by all summiters: 

  Members: Mislow in C1 all the way to top and down to ABC. Most others started on it in camp 2, half of them up from C2, and all from 8000m to C3, in C3 to top and down to C2; some even continued using it to ABC. 

  Sherpas: all from 8000m to top and down to C3, some to C2, a few even down to C1. 
  Tibetans: some in C3, all from C3 to top to C3.

  There were a number of cases of sickness (much of which Ian Prentice thought was due to the team's having been delayed leaving KTM for Tibet because of a nationwide general strike in Nepal and therefore having taken a helicopter to the hydroelectric station not far below the border.

  Those who became sick or frostbitten:
    Bendixen went to no higher than ABC, got pulmonary edema, had no more 
      motivation, and left 4 May.
    Bernier got chest infection.
    Drummond got six toes frosbitten, but they will heal.
    Haines got pulmonary edema but recovered and summited.
    Hewson got cerebral edema at base camp, never went higher and left on 19 April.
    Marshall became generally sick at base camp, never went higher, left on 22 April.
    Miller got bad chest infection but recovered and summited.
    Pitula also bad chest infection, later summited.
    Waters got mild pulmonary edema, later summited.

  There were no accidents except for Drummond's fall at the First Step, as mentioned above.

  High points for non-summiting members:
    Bendixen - ABC
    Bernier - 7600m
    Briggs - First Step (8500m)
    Chatwin - C2, then left team a week early for family reasons
    Drummond - First Step  (8500m)
    Hewson - base camp
    Long - 7600m
    Manning - 7600m
    Marshall - base camp
    Miller - 8450m 
    Morrison - C1, left with Chatwin
    Nixon - C1
    Andrew Prentice - 8450m
    Ian Prentice - top of Third Step 8690m
    Spear - 8400m
    Spencer - C3
    Stalter - 7600m

  Sherpa summiters: 
    Lhakpa Temba (18th), 4/8/73, Kurima, Lokhim, Solu, Everest X2
    Lhakpa Chhiring (20th), 7/4/64, Lokhim, Solu, Everest
    Jangbu (27th), 24/5/67, Patle, Okhaldhunga, 1st 8000er
    Ang Phuri (27th), 27, Patle, 1st 8000er
    Gyaluk (27th), 27, Patle, 1st 8000er
    Tshering Dorje (27th), 25/10/74, Beding, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X3, Manaslu X1
    Tenzing (27th), 22/8/54, Thami, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X1
    Tenzing (27th), 1/6/82, Patle, 1st 8000er
    Lhakpa Ongyal (29th), 19/8/66, Tumlingtar, Makalu X1, Manaslu X1
    Tenzing (29th), 1/10/75, Tumlingtar, 1st 8000er

  Tibetan summiters:
    Nurbu Tsipe (18th), Tashi Tsawa village
    Dorje Karsang (18th), old Tingri
    Yunden (27th), Tingri
    Wangdu (27th), Lhatse
    Awang Norbu (29th), Nyalam
    Puba Tshering (29th), Nyalam
    Tashi Namgyal (29th), Tingri


expid: EVER04145
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Rupert Heider
sponsor: Dream Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2004-04-07
smtdate: 2004-05-16
smttime: 0615
termdate: 2004-05-19
campsites: BC(07/04,5300m),C1(12/04,6100m),C2(16/04,6500m),C3(13/05,7500m),C4(14/05,7950m),Smt(16/05)
accidents: Nothing serious (Heider some frostbitten toes)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Down to BC 22 April. Lost lot of time because no organization by Sherpas and bad leadership amongst themselves. On to Deboche on 24th; stayed there, and returned to BC 2nd May. 9 days lost time here because of disorganization. Left BC on 11th to C2; 13 May to C3; C4 on 14th. Tried to go to top later night of 14th; turned around at balcony and back C4 14th. Left C4 15th at 9:00 pm Heider, Naga Dorje, Pemba Dorje and Nura Wangchu and got to top 6:15 am in lovely weather no wind at all no clouds, returned to C4 to sleep at 11:00 am. To C2 on 17th by Heider and Naga Dorje while other 2 Sherpas to BC (Pemba Dorje trying to make new expedition record 21st May).

  Oxygen used Heider and Naga Dorje from C4 to top to C4; Pemba Dorje and Nuru Wangchu intermittently from C4 to top to C4.

  Pemba Dorje soon afterwards made speed ascent.

  Summit Sherpas:
    Nuru Wangchu, 18/8/77, Pangboche, Everest 2000 + 2002
    Naga (aka Nanda) Dorje, 30/12/66, Khumjung, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X3
    Pemba Dorje, 29/4/77, Beding, Everest X2, Lhotse X1


  Pemba Dorje - 25 June 2004

  Left BC at 6:10 pm - liaison officer Shahdev Raymaji noted this time. Pemba Dorje reported regularly to Sagarmatha Pollution Control Commander's Nuru Jangbu at BC as he climbed the mountain as follows:
  7:03 pm  - at C1
  9:16 pm  - leaving C2
  10:10 pm - bottom of Lhotse's West Face
  10:51 pm - at C3 on the face
  11:25 pm - at the Yellow Band
  11:47 pm - at the Geneva Spur
  12:58 (0:58 am) - about 30m above the bottom of the Balcony.
  1:44 am  - 10-15 meters from the Hillary Step after having climbed South Summit
  2:00 am  - at the top of Hillary Step
  2:08 am  - arrived at summit and radioed LO at BC 2:10 am - LO noted time

  Pemba Dorje climbed entirely alone. Last year a Sherpa joined him the climbing from C4 but he was not much help. When he went to the top on 16th May this year, he left an oxygen bottle for himself in C2 of Japanese (Muraguchi) team and another bottle below the South Summit. It was only on speed climb he used oxygen: from C4 to top and down to bottom of South Summit, where he discarded first bottle and began using second one, down to C2. He had also posted a cook at C2 and when he arrived there at 9:00 pm he drank tea. He stayed 35 minutes on top and used walkie-talkie to report to liaison officer. He saw headlamps at 2 or 3 climbers coming up North Face from a little above the last camp on the face. At top he found a Swiss flag and as 2004 Greek Olympics flag and brought them to KTM (gave them to tourism ministry). At top he also radioed to Nanda Dorje (Naga Dorje), who had summited with him on 16 May at BC.

  Last year he had raced to the top but took 4-1/2 hours longer. He explained his ability to climb in so much less time: he had no training in 2003; this time he trained for 6 months, cycling around KTM valley for 8 to 20 kms a day. Went rock climbing at Balaju, jogged from northern KTM to its western edge daily. Furthermore he knew South Col route used and was well acclimatized by his first ascent this spring on 16 May.


  Russell Brice - 24 Aug 2004

  Regarding Pemba Dorje's Ascent - 20 May 2004 

  It is impossible to see North Face or even First and Second Steps from summit - cannot see anything above North Col because of "Marks" (Whetu's) Rock (at about 8830m) which cuts off all the mountain to Col from sight. From top to Rock 10 minutes in descent, 20 minutes ascent - as to light from headlamps from people at C3, the lamps would have to be aimed in direction of summit, and since no one was ascending Everest that night no lamps could be seen.


  His Majesty's Government Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation
  Press Release

  Whereas Mr. Lhakpa Ghelu Sherpa, a resident of Solukhumbu, has submitted an application to His Majesty's Government, Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation on 2061/02/18 BS (31 May, 2004 AD) demanding for making true and actual investigation into the expedition of Mr. Pemba Dorje Sherpa, a resident of Dolakha, maintaining world record for reaching at the top of the World's highest peak - Mount Everest - in the shortest period of time (8 hours and 10 minutes) on May 21 of 2004 and 

  Whereas, a seven-member Probe Committee, comprising the representatives of Trekking Agents Association of Nepal, Nepal Mountaineering Association, Mount Everest Mountaineering Association, Nepal Mountaineering Federation including the Section Officers of Legal Consultances Section and Mountaineering Section of this Ministry, was formed under the coordination of Under Secretary of Training and Mountaineering Section of this Ministry to submit a report by making detail investigation into that regard with true and actual facts there of including the recommendations/ suggestions about the matter - process and working procedures to be adopted for setting world record in the field of mountaineering in the future, the said Committee has presented its report with this Ministry; and Whereas, the said Probe Committee ahs provided the recommendations/suggestions to the Ministry that even though Mr Pemba Dorji Sherpa could not produce the solid evidences such as the photographs taken while reaching at the top of the Mount Everest in the afore-mentioned time and the witnesses thereof, various aspects, i.e., an evidence of submission of items with the Ministry, which was mentioned through walkie-talkie to the Liaison Officer in the base camp, taking the same along with him upon his return; the information containing the same content provided to the Ministry; by the Liaison Officer the documents made by the leader of Expedition Team concerned with him with the certification that he was reached at the top of the peak in the afore-mentioned time; a flag consisting of white cross on red cloth including the flag consisting of stars, from amongst the evidences brought from the peak, which can be seen in the photographs taken on 17th May 2004 at the peak of the Mount Everest by other mountaineers and the document containing the words "Lama Gheseko Kupar" left by Da Sonam Sherpa of Pangboche at the peak while scaling the Mount Everest on 17th May, should be deemed as evidences until they are proved otherwise; for these reasons, there is no such circumstances to uphold the fact that the said person Pemba Dorje Sherpa did not scale the Mount Everest in the afore-mentioned time and 

  Whereas, after the submission of the report by the said Committee, a information sent by Da Sonam Sherpa of Pangboche to this Ministry through email has been received stating therein that the "Lama Gheseko Kupar" was left by him on 17th May;

  Now, therefore, on the basis of the said evidences and information, this press release has been released for the information of all that his Majesty's Government, with the Ministerial level decision dated 2061/05/29 BS. (14 Sept, 2004 AD), has approved the world record of 8 hours and 10 minutes maintained by the said person Mr. Pemba Dorje Sherpa in the course scaling of the Mount Everest.

  Date: 2061/05/31 BS (16 Sept, 2004 AD)

  Translated by Shree Law Books Management Board


  Himalayan Times - 29 Nov 2017

  The Himalayan Times reports that the speed ascent on 21 May at 2:08 is no longer recognized by the Nepal Supreme Court since Pemba Dorje was unable to provide substantial proof of his ascent. The Ministry of Tourism has been ordered to revoke his summit certificate.

  Pemba Dorje is still credited with his earlier ascent of 16 May 2004.


expid: EVER04146
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Greece
leaders: Nikolaos Magitsis
sponsor: Dream Everest Expedition
countries: Nepal
bcdate: 2004-04-04
smtdate: 2004-05-17
smttime: 0545
termdate: 2004-05-19
campsites: BC(04/04,5300m),C1(12/04,5950m),C2(14/04,6400m),C3(26/04,7300m),C4(16/05,7900m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at 5950m at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  27 Apr to C2. BC to Pheriche 29 Apr, rested 4 days then to BC 5 May waiting for good weather 11th into Icefall. 12th May rest 13th to C2, 14th-15th C3, 16th C4. Left C4 16th 9:00 pm to top at top 6:05 am with Lhakpa Tshering and Jangbu (Jangbu to top 6:35 am), down to C2 2:30 pm to sleep 18th BC.

  Apa climbed with this group, not as hired Sherpa, but as a member; at bottom of Hillary Step he went ahead and was on top before Magitsis and Lhakpa Tshering. 

  Oxygen: Magitsis from C3 to and in C4, from 8200m to top and down to C4; Jangbu resting an hour in C4 and from C4 to top to C4; Apa from C4 to top to C4. 

  Magitsis had planned to scale Lhotse also but Muraguchi reported stonefalling, a Greek friend had died in Kusum Kanguru and Magitsis did not think the Lhotse couloir would "be good for him" and had a tight schedule of more climbs before Olympics came.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Lhakpa Tshering, 17/7/76, Khumjung, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1, Lhotse X1
    Jangbu, 28/4/59, Tapting,  Everest X3
    Apa, Feb 1962, Thami Og, Everest X13


expid: EVER04147
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Kalpana Dash
sponsor: Dream Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2004-04-05
smtdate: 2004-04-15
termdate: 2004-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to lack of skill
campsites: BC(05/04,5350m),C1(08/04,6050m),C2(10/04,6400m),C3(15/04,7200m),xxx(15/04,7200m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 below normal C3
  High point at Dash's low C3.

  Dash was danger to herself and to others with her; did not know how to put crampons on and bought all her clothing and gear in KTM. In C2 Hugyh, after her return from Lhotse Face and his return from top 18th, told her she could do no more climbing (he was nominal leader). No Sherpas wanted to climb with her. Took her 11 hours to reach C1, 4 hours to C2, 11-1/2 hours to her low C3. Always a different Asian Trekking Sherpa with her.


expid: EVER04148
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Ireland
leaders: Pat Falvey
sponsor: Irish Everest 2004 Expedition
bcdate: 2004-04-04
smtdate: 2004-05-18
smttime: 0645
termdate: 2004-05-21
campsites: BC(04/04,5350m),C1(11/04,6100m),C2(19/04,6400m),C3(05/05,7300m),C4(17/05,7900m),Smt(18/05)
achievment: 1st Irish woman; 1st Irish to top from both sides
agency: High Country Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 at West Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Summit party 9:30 pm 17th and on top by 6:45 am 18th, stayed 15-20 pictures, making return to C4 at 11:30 am and stayed there. 19th to C2, 20th to BC.

  Oxygen used by 2 Irish in C3 to top and in C4; Sherpas in C4 to top to 4.

  Summit Sherpas: 
    Pemba Gyalzen, 29/11/73, Pangkoma, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2
    Lama Babu, 23/9/68, Bung, Solu, 1st 8000er
    Jangbu, 19/9/79, Kharikhola, Everest 2/5/03
    Nang Chombi, aka Nang Chhemi, Kharikhola, 24/10/77, Everest X1, Cho X1


expid: EVER04149
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Kenton Cool
sponsor: Jagged Globe Everest Expedition 2004
countries: New Zealand
bcdate: 2004-04-04
smtdate: 2004-05-15
smttime: 1150
termdate: 2004-05-27
campsites: C1(11/04,6100m),C2(18/04,6470m),C3(28/04,7200m),C4(14/05,7900m),Smt(15,24/05)
accidents: Brook mildly frostbitten fingers; Pema Chirri's head cut by stone falling on Lhotse Face
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 at West Cwm
  C3 at Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  From C4 at 11:00 pm 14th; Cool, Jones, Pemba Nurbu and Pema Chhiring reached top 11:50 am of 15th (Cool and Pemba Nuru), 12:45 (Jones) Pema Chhiri. Thinks were first on summit that day. Back to C4 at 5:15 pm (Pemba Chhiri at 5:15 pm because he ran out of oxygen). 16th to C2. Cool stayed in C2 for Brook, who arrived C2 16th (out of synchronization with others because had mild altitude sickness). 

  Cool, Brook and both Sherpas from BC up to C2 18th, down to C2 19th, C3 again 22nd, C4 23rd and Brook and both Sherpas to top on 24th while Cool stayed at South Col. In this summit bid, left C4 10:00 pm of 23rd; on top 10:00 am together and back to C4 to sleep, on C4 3:00 pm. All down to C2 25th and BC 26th.

  Oxygen: 
    Cool climbing from C3 to C4 on 13th, from C4 to top and down to balcony, 
      where it ran out on second trip to Col, used it from C3 to C4 very little.
    Jones from C3 to C4 to top to C4, in C4 and from C4 to C3.
    Brook from C3 to C4 to top to C4, some in C4, from C4 to C3.

  Sherpas:
    Pema Chhiring, 17/12/83, Beding, Everest 5/01, Lhotse, Cho Oyu


expid: EVER04150
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Greece
leaders: Panagiotis Kotronaros
sponsor: Hellas Everest 2004
countries: USA
bcdate: 2004-03-26
smtdate: 2004-05-16
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2004-05-20
campsites: BC(26/03,5350m),C1(10/04,6100m),C2(12/04,6400m),C3(19/04,7300m),C4(14/05,7900m),Smt(16/05)
achievment: 1st Greek citizen on top
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  3 Greek climbers left C4 at midnight of 14/15 May (Antiropoulas, Kotronomos and Voutiropoulas and Sherpas Pema Tshering, Nawang Pasang, Tshering Tashi, Tashi Lhakpa, Mingma), got to balcony at 8300m and turned back by high wind and back to C4. At 8:pm 15 May all these climbers and Styllas and Tsiantos left C4 again for summit in fine weather. Voutiropoulas was ready to go first, so his Sherpa Pema Tshering went ahead of the others and got to top at 6:00 am. All others on top at 9:00 am except Tsiantos, who reached top at 10:55 am, slow because he was filming. Tsiantos was met at top by Mingma, who had waited for him in this balmy weather. All to C4: Voutiropoulas and Pema Tshering at 1:00 pm, Styllas and Tashi Lhakpa at 6:00 pm, leader at 2:30 pm not until 5:30-6:00 pm. Next day to C2, 18th to BC. Soulis went only to C2 as manager and in support.

  Oxygen: Greeks from C3 to and in C4 to top to and in C4; Sherpas from C4 to top to C4.

  Summiters planted 2004 Athens Olympic flag on summit.

  Sherpa Summiters:
    Pema Tshering, 1/6/70, Waku village, Makalu, Everest 23/5/03
    Nawang Pasang, 16/10/78, Beding, 1st 8000er
    Tshering Tashi, 1985, Khumjung, 1st 8000er
    Tashi Lhakpa, 20 years old, Waku village, Makalu, 1st 8000er, brother of Mingma
    Mingma, 16/6/78, Waku, Upper Walung, Makalu, Manaslu, Cho Oyu X3, Makalu,
      Xixabangma, Lhotse, GII, Broad Peak (Tashi Lhakpa's brother)


expid: EVER04151
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Mario Dutil
sponsor: Independent team on Everest
bcdate: 2004-04-10
smtdate: 2004-05-16
smttime: 0829
termdate: 2004-05-22
campsites: BC(10/04),C1(20/04,6100m),C2(25/04,6500m),C3(14/05,7300m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Mountain Madness
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at S Col.

  Left C3 8:30 am in summit push; all 3 members and 3 Sherpas to go to C4; arrived at C4 2:30 pm, stayed till 8:30 pm., when left for top. Arrived top at 8:29 am on 16th (Jean, Dutil, Pasang Norbu and Nawang Wangchu) and 9:15 am (St. Hilarie and Thile Nuru). On top together, no wind, no clouds, sunshine; returned to C4 to sleep; down to BC 17th. 

  Oxygen used by members from C3 to C4; St. Hilaire and Dutil only in C4; to top, to C4 by Jean and Dutil only and all from C4 to C3; by Sherpas from C4 to top C4.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Nawang Wangchu, 31/5/73, Chaplung, Chaurikharka, Everest X3, Dhaula I
    Pasang Norbu, 20/12/73, Walung, Makalu, Everest 23/5/01, Kangch X1
    Thile Nuru,  26/5/74, Chaplung, Chaurikharka, Everest 22/5/03
    Chongba Nurbu, 1964-5, Chaurikharka-7, Everest X2

  Oxygen: Canadians from C3 to C4, in C4 (except Jean, who did not use it in C4), to top to C4 (except St. Hilaire, who did not use it), in C4 and all to C3; Sherpas from C4 to top to C4.


expid: EVER04152
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Craig Van Hoy
sponsor: Go Trek Everest Expedition
countries: Taiwan
bcdate: 2004-04-03
smtdate: 2004-05-16
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2004-05-20
campsites: BC(03/04,5364m),C1(20/04,6005m),C2(22/04,6523m),C3(24/04,7315m),C4(14/05,7925m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Nomad Expeditions
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 at usual campsite
  C2 at usual campsite
  C3 at usual campsite
  C4 at South Col.

  Van Hoy, Dawa Sherpa and Tendi Sherpa left C4 at 9:15 pm on May 15th, summited at 7 am on 16th,  stayed about 25 minutes, descended to South Col all together where the team arrived at 2 pm. Next day all to BC. 

  Team of Justman (Mountain Link), Greeks and Swiss were ahead of Van Hoy on summit, and behind them were Discovery group. There were about 8 people of summit at the time of Van Hoy got to summit. Weather was fantastic. 

  Other member Kuo (Taiwan) reached up to C2 on April 22. He decided not to continue his climbing because the way ahead is too steep for him. Kuo left BC on April 24 and for Taipei on 25th. He was not sick. 

  The Van Hoy team returned to KTM on May 23 and leaves on 24th.

  Note: Five Sherpas were shared by Van Hoy team and Justman team.

  Kale Sherpa only up to C2
    (shared with Nomad Expeditions other team led by Jeffrey Justman)

  Sherpa summiters with Van Hoy
    Tendi, 2/6/67, Taksindu-7, Solu
    Dawa, 19/5/63, Taksindu-7, Solu, Everest X6


expid: EVER04153
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Argentina
leaders: Gustavo Lisi
sponsor: International Everest 2004
countries: USA
bcdate: 2004-04-16
smtdate: 2004-05-18
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2004-05-22
campsites: BC(16/04,5350m),C1(25/04,6100m),C2(28/05,6450m),C3(07/05,7500m),C4(16/05,7900m),Smt(18/05)
accidents: Antezana died (of exhaustion?) at balcony on descent from summit
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 at West Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Were delayed going up to C1 because had to wait for pujas at BC; Lama arrived for puja on 22nd April.

  Arrived at C4 on 16th and 17th rested at C4. Left C4 for top 8:00 pm of 17th and on top about 10:00 am of 18th; Dorje first, Lisa 2nd, Antezana and Mingma together last but only 10 minutes after Dorje. Stopped on top half an hour and started down about 10:30 am all 4 together. Dorje led descent of Hillary Step and waited at the bottom; Lisi joined him and Dorje down 20m, Lisi joined him; waited for Mingma and Antezana cross ridge to South Summit and Lisi went with them to South summit; 4 together on down together with 2 Sherpas giving Antezana help, one on each side of him; down to about balcony and Lisi says to balcony at 8400-8500m (but Sherpas to Benegas say to 50m above balcony). Lisi went ahead 20-40m and to balcony first and waited 30-40 minutes for other 3 who were increasing slow descending from South Summit; then down alone and stopped at "triangle" about 8300m and decided to biv there in his biv sack and go to sleep there; 2 Sherpas joined him at "triangle" about 7:00 pm without Antezana. Sherpas said Antezana was unconscious above balcony on Tibetan side so Sherpas put him with down jacket and left him there. Lisi & 2 Sherpas down; Sherpas went ahead, Lisi fell in icy sections above Col and got buried and lost head lamp so shouted for help and Irish expedition Sherpa went up to help him down to Col. Lisi to C2 to sleep on 19th BC 20th.

  Oxygen: Antezana in C4 to top and in descent; Lisi in C4 to top and down to South Summit when supply ran out; Sherpas from C4 to top and down to C4.


  Pat Falvey, leader of Irish team - 26/5/2004

  Falvey's Sherpas helped Lisi down Geneva Spur because he was very weak and Lisi's Sherpas extremely tired. Falvey gave him oxygen and he used during part of his descent from C4 to C3. 

  Falvey himself saw Lisi's members and Sherpas at 10:00 pm on 17th as they were going up the Triangle, and saw one of them, almost certainly Antezana, very insecure on his feet and moving very slowly. Falvey saw him again at 8:30 am on the 18th as Falvey was descending; Antezana was going up to South Summit, which had no snow or ice covering it and very therefore very difficult for inexperienced climber to negotiated with crampons on. Falvey's Sherpas were told by Antezana's Sherpas that he had grabbed the leg of someone descending, asking for help. 

  Antezana's daughter told Falvey in KTM on 26 May that her father had taken $5000 for each Sherpas to get and promised $15,000 bonus to Lisi and $5000 for each Sherpas to get him to the summit and down again; this $25,000 is missing.


expid: EVER04154
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Luis Benitez
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Everest Expedition 2004
countries: Australia, Canada, Ireland, New Zealand, Norway
bcdate: 2004-04-17
smtdate: 2004-05-27
smttime: 1020
termdate: 2004-05-31
campsites: BC(17/04,5350m),C1(25/04,6100m),C2(28/04,6500m),C3(09/05,7300m),C4(24/05,7900m),Smt(27/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Arrived at South Col 24th May, stayed till 27th (weather forecast quite inaccurate). Left C4 for top at 9:00 pm 26th were all summiters but no one else from this team. On top between 10:20 and 11:10 am of 27th and all to C4 to sleep. 28th to C2.

  Oxygen: members of summit team. Barman in C3 to C4 and in C4 most of 3 days there, to top, to and in C4 and to C3; Sherpas sometimes in C4 from 24 May, all from C4 to top to C4. 

  Chuldim in his descent after summit in top 1/3 area of Icefall had a ladder flip over under his weight and muscules between his ribs were torn.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Phu Tashi, Pangboche, 1973, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X1
    Chuldim, aka Ang Dorje, Khumjung, 26/11/63, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X2
    Lhakpa Tharke, Phortse, 14/5/81, 1st 8000er
    Pasang Tenzing, Phortse, 21/1/78, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1
    Nuru Gyalzen, Phortse, 18/8/73, 1st 8000er

  In summit team were 3 members who turned back at South Summit.
    Bradley and Tokeraka because they were very tired and Roberts to accompany them
      down to C4 (no Sherpa down with them).

  Members who left before all climbing finished:
    Konrath left expedition 12 May
    Barman got to C4 but did not try to go higher left BC 28 May.


expid: EVER04155
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Robert Huygh
sponsor: Dream Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2004-04-05
smtdate: 2004-05-17
smttime: 0833
termdate: 2004-05-21
campsites: BC(05/04,5350m),C1(08/04,6050m),C2(10/04,6400m),C3(15/05,7300m),C4(16/05,7900m),Smt(17/05)
accidents: Troch's 3 fingers and 1 toe serious frostbite; Tshering Thundu snowblind
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  27 April Huygh, Troch, Pasang Tharke and Pemba Tshering from C2 to go to C3, but got no higher than 6700m just before face begins but fear of avalanching made Huygh decide too dangerous to  continue up so back to C2; back to BC 28th for Huygh and BC by Troch on 29th. Huygh on 29th to rest alone and returned 9th May. 

  13th May Huygh, Troch, Pasang Tharke, Pasang Tshering, Tshering Thurdu, Pemba Tshering left C4 8:45 pm 16th. Huygh on top on 17th May at 8:33 am, Troch 8:35 am: Pasang Tshering, Tshering Thurdu, Pasang Tharke with Troch; spent 35-40 minutes on top snowy and cold. Troch's fingers and toes badly frostbitten. Huygh at 2 Sherpas in C4 at 5:45 pm. Pasang Tharke with Troch lost Troch at about 2:00 pm: weather windy and snowfall and white out. Pasang Tharke alone to C4 while Troch with US climber Bill Zachary got lost together unable to find route. Sherpas out its search for them, but found Zarachy only. Sherpas back again and found Troch at 9:00 pm. Troch has no recollection; when Sherpas found him Troch said he waited to sleep where he was on hard ice just above Col. 19th Huygh in BC, 20th Troch in BC. Tshering Thundu got snowblind on 17th in descent.

  Oxygen:
    Sherpas: from C4 to top only
    Huygh: from C3 to C4, from C4 to top to C4; from C4 to C3 on 18th
    Troch: from C3 to C4, in C4, from C4 to top: in descent from top 

  Troch's oxygen ran out at about 2:00 pm at about 8400m and thought his Sherpa had no oxygen but other Sherpas also from third agency, Asian Trekking, offered oxygen to him but Troch refused it; resumed using oxygen only when he returned to C4 about 9:45 pm and Huygh gave it to him. Troch did not use it going down from C4 becauses he had trouble seeing the way down with an oxygen mask on.

  Summit Sherpas:
    Pasang Tshering, 21/5/74, Pangboche, Everest X1
    Tshering Thundu, 4/10/74, Khumjung, 1st 8000er
    Pemba Tshering, 1965, Pangboche, Lhotse 5/03, Everest 5/03
    Pasang Tharke, 1971, Pangboche, Xixa


expid: EVER04156
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Malaysia
leaders: Fauzan Hassan
sponsor: Malaysian Everest 2004 Expedition
bcdate: 2004-04-02
smtdate: 2004-05-16
smttime: 0835
termdate: 2004-05-19
campsites: BC(02/04),C1(09/04,6000m),C2(15/04,6500m),C3(22/04,7500m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Himalayan Treasure
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 at West Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Summit party plus Ang Phuri Sherpa arrived Col on 15 May at 2:00 pm. Summit party left C4 at 10:45 pm and on top at 8:35 am of 16th. Weather very clear and not windy and returned to C4 1:15 pm all 5 together and slept C4 for 14 hours ("very tired" says Rozali). 17th to C2 and 18th to BC.

  Summit Sherpas: 
    Nga Temba, 1955, Sikli, Everest X9, Cho Oyu X2
    Pasang Rinji, 28/11/76, Kharikhola, Everest X2, Anna X1, Lhotse X1
    Doma Chhiri, 17/1/84, Sikli, 1st 8000er


expid: EVER04157
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Josu Feijoo
sponsor: Euskaltel Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2004-04-13
smtdate: 2004-05-17
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2004-05-22
campsites: BC(13/04),C1(17/04,6100m),C2(23/04,6430m),C3(05/05,7300m),C4(16/05,7900m),Smt(17/05)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 at West Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Summit party left C4 with Mingma Sherpa on 16th at 9:00 pm and Mingma turned back because didn't like weather; others on top at 8:00 to 10:00 am and slept in C4 (returned 11:30 and 6:00 pm). 2nd down to BC, 2 members to C2 on 18th and BC 19th.

  Oxygen: all summit party and Mingma from C4 to top to C4 (Llopis only, one to sleep with oxygen in C4 on return). 

  Cruz left C4 for top with summit party but only to Balcony because going slowly and weather looked not good with many clouds in distance so he returned to C4; Cruz used oxygen in C4 to Balcony to and in C4; Briongos oxygen only from Balcony to top to Balcony.

  Summit Sherpas: 
    Nima Nuru, Thami, 16/6/74, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1
    Pemba Nuru, Thami, 1979, 1st 8000er

  Other Sherpas:
    Mingma, Kharikhola, Everest X2 N & S


expid: EVER04159
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Noriyuki Muraguchi
sponsor: Dream Everest Expedition
approach: Lukla->Tyangboche->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2004-04-08
smtdate: 2004-05-24
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2004-05-26
othersmts: Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-041-07)
campsites: BC(08/04,5300m),C1(16/04,6000m),C2(21/04,6400m),C3(13/05,7300m),C4(22/05,8000m),Smt(24/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Started from C4 on 23 May at 10:20 pm. Summited at 24th May at 7:30-40 am, stayed for 1 hour, made pictures the weather was good. On summit at the same time about 8-10 members and Sherpas, probably American summited also. Came back to C2 at 3-4 pm.

  Oxygene: 
    Member: in C3, to C4, in C4, to top to C4, to C2
    Sherpas: in C4, to the summit, to 7000m

  Sherpa summiters:
    Phurba Sherpa, Namche, 1958-9, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X1
    Thukten Dorje Sherpa, Namche, 30/6/68, Everest X3


expid: EVER04160
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Chun Byung-Tai
sponsor: 2004 Joyful Expedition to Everest
bcdate: 2004-04-04
smtdate: 2004-05-16
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2004-05-21
campsites: BC(04/04,5300m),C1(08/04,6000m),C2(11/04,6500m),C3(20/04,7300m),C4(30/04,7900m),Smt(15/05)
agency: NE-KO Treks
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 at usual campsite
  C2 at usual campsite
  C3 at usual campsite
  C4 at South Col.

  May 15 left C4 at 21:20 hours Chun and Shim together with Thilen, Dawa Nurbu, Dawa Ongju and Pema Sherpa. Summited at 11:30 hours by Shim and Thilen Sherpa; Chun and three Sherpas came up on summit at 12:45 hours. On summit were member of Greek expedition and two Sherpas from expedition.

  The first summiters spent about little more than 2 hours and second team about an hour. All descended together to South Col where they reached at 19:00 hours. The weather on summit was unusually good on summit. The members took off oxygen mask, hung gloves just off jacket and they did not have any problem. From South Col to C2 all members. On 19th to BC.

  Member Cha went up to 7300m on 15th; suffered little headache and went down to C2.
  Member Han up to C2.
  Kim Ji-Ho to South Col on 15th; exhausted, decided to go to lower camp by himself.
  Kuoun up to Lhotse West Face.
  Lee Ki-Yeong up to South Col; exhausted, went to lower camp.
  Park up to C2; developed vision problem, went down to BC.
  Ryu up to South Col; exhausted, down to lower camp.

  The expedition also was filming their climbing activities for TV that will be telecasted in coming summer.

  Sherpas:
    Thilen Sherpa, 20/11/68, Tashigaon, Makalu-5, Sankhuwasabha, Everest X4
    Dawa Nurbu Sherpa, 1971, Makalu-9, Mathilow Walung
    Dawa (Ongju) Sherpa, 17/12/72, Mathilow Walung, Makalu-9, Kangch X2
    Peme Sherpa, 1972, Makalu-5, Tashigaon, 1st 8000er

  The special club 20001 project was established with the objective to summit five summits of the world. The club was already had four summits and Everest was the last summit which the members had successfully summited. The climbing activities is one of the parts of celebration programme on the occasion of the 50th anniversary of the Inha University.

  Shim expressed his gratitude to Nawang Sherpa with one artificial leg who helped him while descending from South Col to C2.


expid: EVER04101
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Mexico
leaders: Andres Delgado, Alejandro Ochoa Reyes
sponsor: Everest 2004
countries: Canada
bcdate: 2004-03-29
smtdate: 2004-05-16
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2004-05-20
campsites: BC(29/03,5350m),C1(03/04,6000m),C2(09/04,6350m),C3(18/04,7234m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 at usual campsite
  C2 at usual campsite
  C3 at usual campsite
  C4 at South Col.

  Boileau, Cartier, Masterson, Delgado, Espinoza, Ochoa Reyes and five Sherpas left South Col at 9:30 pm of May 15. Summit by Boileau at 7:30 am with Namgyal, Espinoza at 10:30 am, Ochoa Reyes at 11:00 am, Ang Kami at 11:15. Stayed at summit: Boileau and Namgyal for one hour, Ochoa Reyes for 40 minutes and Ang Kami for 15 minutes. Discovery team members were already on summit; while on summit Greek and Sherpas came up. Weather was perfect. Boileau reached South Col at 12 noon, Ochoa Reyes at 5 pm. 

  Other members: Cartier up to 8400m, felt exhausted, short breath then went down to South Col with Da Nima. Then to C2 with Pasang. 

  Masterson reached without oxygen at 8750m, got loose crampon, felt dizzy put on oxygen back to South Col on 16th. Masterson was assisted back to the South Col by Delgado, Hector Ponce de Leon and Andrew Lock where he was given medical oxygen and other medication.

  Gomez Pietrini suffered high altitude retinal hemorrhage on April 20th while in C3, went down to BC on 22nd. 

  The expedition team - 5 members returned to KTM on 22. Leaving for Chitwan on 24. They plan to return KTM on 26 and leave Nepal on 27th.


  Lhotse 

  Source (On Arrival form for Delgado & Ochoa Reyes) - 22 March 2004

  First summit bids for both summits planned from C3 in late April; if those fail, then form C4 in early May.

  Kili Sherpa, of Mountain Madness Treks who was at Base Camp with the Canadian expedition led by Ben Webster, said in Kathmandu on 10 June 2004 that Delgado's team made no attempt to reach Lhotse's summit.

accidents:
  Masterson developed cerebral edema at about 8600m (below South Summit, he was without supplemental oxygen)


expid: EVER04162
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Bill Zachary
sponsor: Dream Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2004-04-03
smtdate: 2004-05-17
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2004-05-21
campsites: BC(03/04,5350m),C1(10/04,6100m),C2(12/04,6450m),C3(26/04,7400m),C4(16/05,7900m),Smt(17/05)
accidents: Zachary lost consciousness and has frostbite
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 at West Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Left C4 16th 8:45 pm, on top about 9:00 am Zachary and Mingma together. Frostbite due to taking off outer gloves to manueover better when difficult sections especially Hillary Step and even on way down did not focus on need to put gloves back on. Had difficulties at ice shelve just above Col and couldn't see route but went off to left and lost track of what happened next; next thing to remember was noise, woke up to lights used by Discovery Team using filming and then had Pasang Tshering with Belgiums calling him to get up. 8:30 pm in tent; about 2 hours gap in memory. Went on oxygen as soon as got in tent for hands, which were realized had 3 badly frostbitten fingers. Mingma went on ahead of Zachary since Zachary had said during ascent for him to go ahead.

  Used oxygen intermittently from C3 to C4 and on to top and down (probably not going down Hillary Step). When back in tent at C4 probably supply had run out. Mingma from C4 to top and down. Used to C3 on 18th again intermittently. Slept in C3. 19th in C2 and 20th to BC. Zachary has rope burn on left arm above wrist.


  Willie Benegas (leader of a US expedition on Everest that summited on 17 May) - 24 May 2004

  Zachary collapsed on glacier just above South Col. Sherpas of other Asian Trekking clients were sent up to search for Zachary; they went up with bad headlamps, didn't find him, came back, were told to look again and on 3rd search found him at 10:00-11:00 pm.


expid: EVER04161
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Chile
leaders: Rodrigo Jordan
sponsor: Chilean Everest Expedition
countries: UK
bcdate: 2004-04-02
smtdate: 2004-05-15
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2004-05-22
campsites: BC(02/04,5370m),C1(11/04,6100m),C2(14/04,6370m),C3(13/05,7370m),C4(14/05,7900m),Smt(15/05)
achievment: 1st to summit of the season
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 at usual campsite
  C2 at usual campsite
  C3 at usual campsite
  C4 at South Col.

  C1 first used by Alvial, Bond, Guzman, Luksic and Olivares. Same members used C2, C3 and C4 for the first time. Left C4 at 10:45 hours of 14th (five members and four Sherpas together). Summited on May 15 at 12:30 hours, stayed on summit an hour and half excellent weather, descended to C4. First memeber to arrived was at 17:00 hours and last ones to arrive at 02:00 hours of 16th. First to reach summit was Lhakpa Rita, Phu Tashi, followed by Olivares and Bond. On the summit day other summiters were two Swiss, two British (probably), some Sherpas - about 8 people. The expeditions plan was to put up five members on summit and that was successfully achieved. 

  The expedition returned to KTM on 24th and to leave on 25th. Leader Jordan, Dr. Venegas and Vera did not go above C2.

  Sherpa non-summiters:
    Chuldim Dorje Sherpa
    Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa (Lakpa Nuru?)
    Palden Tamang
    Ang Pasang Sherpa

  Sherpa summiters:
    Palden Namgye, Phortse, 22/9/72, Everest X1, Manaslu X1, Lhotse X1, Annapurna X1
    Phu Tashi Phortse, 23/10/77, 1st 8000er
    Lhakpa Nuru, Phortse, 22/4/80, 1st 8000er
    Lhakpa Rita, Phortse, 4/9/71, Everest X2, Lhotse X1, Annapurna X1


expid: EVER04158
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Thomas McMillan
sponsor: Everest: Friendship Beyond Borders Expedition
countries: Nepal
approach: Lukla->Island Peak->Everest BC
bcdate: 2004-04-04
smtdate: 2004-05-16
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2004-05-20
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (McMillan and Sherpas except Nawang)
campsites: BC(04/04,5300m),C1(11/04,6100m),C2(20/04,6500m),C3(29/04,7300m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(16/04)
achievment: 1st Nepali on Everest summit prosthetic leg
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 at usual campsite
  C2 at usual campsite
  C3 at usual campsite
  C4 at South Col.

  Left South Col two members and three Sherpas at 9:10 pm of 15th. McMillan and Nima Tashi summited at 7:30 am of 16th, Pemba Dorje Sherpa at 7:45 am (about), Nawang and Nima Gombu at 8:15 am. All waiting for Nawang on summit. Both members and all Sherpas left summit at 9:06 am. By 3 pm all members and Sherpas reached south Col. Next day to C2. On 18th to BC. Weather was perfect on summit day.

  Oxygen:
  Members McMillan and Nawang used oxygen from 7700m (above yellow band) and also for sleeping at South Col. On summit day oxygen used by members and Sherpas from South Col to summit and to South Col. Nawang's artificial leg is made by Dr. Tom Halvorson which cost between US$10,000-15,000. There was not any problem about the artificial leg. The expedition members returned to KTM on 23 May. McMillan's flight booking is on waiting list for June 5.

  The base camp manager Else had to leave BC on May 12 due to his job back home. He probably had left Nepal on 17th. Timothy Roberts took charge on BC on May 6th.

  McMillan said that Nawang was quite fit and his performance at times better than other normal climbers.

  Sherpas:
    Nima Gombu Sherpa (02-01-1969), Beding, Cho Oyu X1,
      2004 summit on Everest is his 10th time
    Nima Tashi Sherpa, 4/4/60, Pangboche, smt on Everest is his 6th time
    Pemba Dorje, aka Pem Dorjee (1982-4-28), Chyangba, Tapting-1, Solu
      Spring 2004 Summit on Everest is his 1st 8000er


expid: EVER04138
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: David Breashears
sponsor: 2004 Working Title Films Everest Expedition
countries: Austria, Finland, UK
bcdate: 2004-04-01
smtdate: 2004-05-17
smttime: 0615
termdate: 2004-05-20
campsites: Bc(01/04),C1(07/04,6100m,C2(14/04,6450m),C3(18/04,7300m),C4(16/05,7900m),Smt(17/04)
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Summit team left C4 at 10:00 pm 16th May, got behind 35 climbers moving too slowly on fixed ropes to balcony at 27,000 ft. Above balcony was able to to pass the slow people and get to top.

  Breashears met Apa at top - all to C4 11:00-11:30 am to sleep; all to C2 except Gustafsson to BC.

  Sherpa summiters: 
    Lhakpa Gelje, 25/1/72, Tapting-1, Solu, 1st 8000er
    Lhakpa Dorje, Kurima, Solu, 27/3/66, Everest X3, Lhotse X1
    Kami, aka Kame, 1962, Kerung, Solu, Everest X3, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Dhaula
    Da Sonam, 1965, Pangboche, Everest X3
    Dawa Jangbu, 22/4/73, Beding, Lhotse X1
    Dawa Tenzing, 1979, Beding, Lhotse X1
    Kami, 9/11/79, Okhaldhunga, Everest X2
    Mingma Dorje, 25 years, Tapting, Solu, 1st 8000er
   
  Daldry and Finn went into Icefall only, left expedition 12 April.


expid: EVER04136
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Willie Benegas
sponsor: Mountain Madness Everest Expedition 2004
bcdate: 2004-04-07
smtdate: 2004-05-17
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2004-05-21
campsites: BC(07/04),C1(11/04,6100m),C2(20/04,6450m),C3(06/05,7350m),C4(16/05,7900m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Mountain Madness
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Left C4 at 9:00 pm all 4 members and 3 Sherpas including Phanden Sherpa. Almost at balcony, Ponder decided this was enough for him and turned back to South Col and Phanden who went with him; others went on to top at 8:30 am. Lost 4 hours because climbers ahead in long queque who did not know how to climb properly, had no leadership in some cases were like "collections" on a permit but not a team, inadequate gear; one Belgium tossed away his oxygen bottle which almost hit Rice. Returned to C4 2:00 pm to sleep. 18th to C2 to sleep and 19th to BC.

  Sherpas: 
    Mingma Tshering, 25/3/81, Kharikhola, Everest X3
    Nima Wandeki, 1969, Kharikhola, Everest X1, Lhotse X1
    Phanden, 26/9/71, Kharikhola, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2


expid: EVER04135
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Mark Tucker
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Non-Guided Everest Summit Climb
countries: Australia, Canada, Singapore
bcdate: 2004-04-05
smtdate: 2004-05-15
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2004-05-22
campsites: BC(05/04,5350m),C1(11/04,6060m),C2(12/04,6511m),C3(25/04,7300m),C4(14/05,7900m),Smt(15/05)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  C2 at West Cwm
  C3 at Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Summit party left C4 for top 11:30 pm 14th plus Kami Tshering (Pangboche) and Phu Nuru (Phortse); Kami Tshering turned back 1-2 hours after leaving C4 with diarrhea and Phu Nuru back later with oxygen problem at the balcony. Summit party to top at 1:00 pm except Flynn, who was slow and Mingma Tshering with him and all in C4 at 7:00 pm and 10:00 pm by Flynn and Mingma Tshering. All to C2 on 16th. Flynn had to be helicoptered out of BC because extremely dehydrated and on I-V fluid: left BC by chopper on 18th.

  2nd summit party reached C4 16: Clement, Cross, Khoo, Dunnahoo, Panuru, Mingma Ongel, Dorje Lama and Phinzu left C4 8:30 pm 16th for top: Mingma Ongel's boots too short and dropped out 3 hours later; Cross and Clement stopped just below the balcony tired and oxygen problem, Panuru down with them. Khoo and Dorje Lama stopped at balcony at 2:45 pm, Khoo cold and breathing problem and Dorje Lama down with him. Dunnahoo and  Phinzo (Phortse, Mingma Ongdal's brother) stopped below South Summit (Dunnahoo too slow and Phinzu with him). All to C4 for night except Khoo who went to C2.

  Oxygen: all members in C3 to top to C4 except Khoo, who used none at all. All Sherpas in C4 to top to and in C4.

  Bramhill left BC 4-5 days after team arrived there, did not go above BC (realized climb was too big a job for him).

  Matthews left 10 days after BC arrival (went to C1 and spent a night there, then down and left); no motivation.

  Tucker went onto Lhotse Face, turned back because of bad weather and went no higher.


expid: EVER04126
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Benjamin Webster
sponsor: Discovery Channel Everest Expedition
countries: Australia, Mexico
bcdate: 2004-04-06
smtdate: 2004-05-15
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2004-05-28
campsites: BC(06/04),C1(11/04,6100m),C2(22/04,6300m),C3(7500m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(15-16/05)
agency: Mountain Madness
routememo:
  Fixed rope 400-600m C3 - yellow band combined with other expedition.

  C4 at South Col

  Lama Jangbu Sherpa left C4 at about 9 pm on 14th and reached summit at about 10:30 am on 15th. He is the first person to summit of the season. He did filming of Chilean climbers. 

  Lock and Ponce de Leon together with Lhakpa Gelu, Mingma Tshering, Dawa Gyalje and Chongba Nurbu Sherpa (from other Canadian expedition) left C4 at 10 pm on 15th, summited at 9:15 am on on 16th by Lock, Mingma Tshering and Dawa Gyalje. At 9:40 am came to summit Ponce de Leon, Lhakpa Gelu and Chongba Nurbu Sherpa. All members and Sherpas stayed on summit till 11:30 am. By 6 pm all returned to South Col. There were about 20 people on summit. Weather was stunning on summit day. The expedition members also were filming other climbers. 

  Second Push: Miss Burke reached South Col on 24th with four Sherpas; spent two nights waitiing for improvement in weather which was very windy. Member and Sherpas went down to BC on 26th. Webster went up to halfway to C3 on 23rd. He was very tired and gave up climbing.

  Ponce de Leon left KTM in the morning of June 1. Lock to leave on June 2. At the time of meeting Lock did not know about others departure. Later I understand from Rishi that Webster and Burke left on June 3.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Lama Jangbu, 22/7/64, Kharikhola, Everest X8
    Dawa Gyalje, 14/3/79, Beding, 1st 8000er
    Lhakpa Gelu, 23/6/67,, Bubsa, Everest X10, Cho Oyu X1
    Mingma Tshering, 2/8/70, Beding, Everest X9, K2 X1, Cho Oyu X2


expid: GAUG04301
peakid: GAUG
year: 2004
route1: W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kiyoshi Ishii
sponsor: Club Yeti Mustang Expedition Autumn 2004
ascent1: 4th
approach: Jomsom->Chhamnang->Tange->Yara->Gumathati
bcdate: 2004-09-23
smtdate: 2004-09-25
termdate: 2004-09-26
campsites: BC(23/09,5400m),Smt(25/09)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Left KTM 6 Sept and returned KTM 7 Oct.

  When he was on the mountain in 2002, he thought he had not climbed Gaugiri but some other mountain. Only when he returned in summer 2004 and climbed a peak east of it did he realize he actually had climbed Gaugiri in 2002.


expid: GAUG04201
peakid: GAUG
year: 2004
route1: E Ridge of unnamed peak in Tibet
nation: Japan
leaders: Kiyoshi Ishii
sponsor: Club Yeti Mustang Expedition Summer 2004
approach: Jomsom->Chlomnang->Yara->Gumathati->Damodar Kunde Khola
bcdate: 2004-07-04
smtdate: 2004-07-04
termdate: 2004-07-11
othersmts: Climbed E Ridge of unnamed peak in Tibet
campsites: BC(04/07,5400m),C1(04/07,5800m),Tibetan Mountain(07/07,6530m)
achievment: 1st ascent of Tibetan peak
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC north of Gaugiri
  C1 at East Ridge of Tibetan Peak.

  From BC went east into Tibet and climbed a mountain of 6530m height via its East Ridge. Mountain has no name and is just over the border from Nepal. Had C1 at 5800m on 5 July. Harada turned back at 6300m because "not good condition" on 7th for summit push (team had gone to BC on 5th and 6th returned to C1). Summit reached on 7th by Ishii and Panima Sherpa and Kumar Rai and all return to BC on 7th. Was easy snow ridge; 100m rope fixed on ridge. Ishii went to this Tibetan mountain because local people pointed to it as Gaugiri, but when he reached this summit on a very clear day, he saw that Gaugiri was actually the mountain he had climbed in autumn '02 (which he had thought then he had failed on) and now was on a mountain just east of it.


  Ishii's report to Tourism Ministry on return from climb: 

  Arrived BC on 4 July at 5400m, established C1 on 7 th July at 5800m, then "due to continous bad weather conditions for 3 days, we gave up to climb further from 5800m". Left BC 11 July.


expid: JANU04101
peakid: JANU
year: 2004
route1: N Face direct
nation: Russia
leaders: Alexander Odinstov
sponsor: Panasonic Jannu North Face Russian Expedition
ascent1: 22nd,23rd
countries: Kyrgyz Republic
approach: Ghunsa->Khumbakarna Glacier
bcdate: 2004-04-03
smtdate: 2004-05-26
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2004-05-20
achievment: 1st direct ascent of North Face
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
campsites:
  BC(03/04,4700m),C1(09/04,5600m),C2A(13/04,6200m),C2B(17/04,6700m),C3(22/04,7000m),C4A(07/05,7900m),C4B(10/05,7400m),Smt(26,28/05)

routememo:
  BC  at Jannu Glacier
  C1  below North Face
  C2A at North Face
  C2B at North Face
  C3  at above mixed snow and rock to steep wall's start
  C4A at North Face
  C4B at North Face.

  To make place for C3: 3 people for 8 hours per day in relays cutting ice and removing stome for 4-5 days. Made 2 camps at C2 and C4 because to reach later "B" site too many hours of going up fixed ropes to camp higher than "A", then from "A"s fixed more rope above and moved to "B" sites. Went to top only on 26th May because very difficult rock (nearly difficult rock from 7000m upwards) and slow progress fixing rope to top, carrying heavy equipment; put ice screws below 7000m and rock pitons above (used total about 75 ice screws and about 300 rock pitons - in some places as rock not good and needed 2-3 pitons at a single point). 

  1st summit party left C4B at 5:00 am and on top 3:00 pm and back to C4 at 6:00 pm and on 27th to BC. Had spent 4 nights above 7000m and wanted to get quickly to lower altitude had strong wind. Top was snow cornice and difficult for rock climbers especially last 70m to top on NE Ridge much of it was powder snow on rock, which is dangerous to climb. 

  28th May summit party left C4B at 5:00 am and on top at 10:30 am in much faster ascent because route now opened by 1st party. Down to C4B at 2:00 pm rested and down to C4A to sleep; next day cleared mountain of some rope and all tents, etc (could not bring down all rope because sun had melted and frozen much of it; in BC same day, 29th. Another factor in slow climbing was that not possible to climb this route with mittens, but to go without mittens, fingers got very cold, so every 2 meters (or even less) had to pause and rub fingers to get them warm again.


expid: KABS04101
peakid: KABS
year: 2004
route1: W Face
nation: Serbia
leaders: Dragan Jacimovic
sponsor: Serbian Way Kabru Expedition
countries: Slovenia
bcdate: 2004-04-14
smtdate: 2004-05-03
termdate: 2004-05-06
termnote: Abandoned at 5650m due to leader's accident
campsites: BC(14/04,4600m),ABC(20/04,4500m),C1(27/04,5100m),xxx(03/05,5650m)
achievment: 1st attempt from Nepal side
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at Yalung Glacier, 1 km WNE of Ramche village
  ABC at east side of Yalung Glacier, WNW of Rothang and bottom of Kabru IV
  C1  at plateau top of vertical wall
  High point at near top of icefall.

  Fixed 820m from ABC to C1 up nearly vertical (85 degrees) rock wall to plateau, where C1 placed. Above C1 big icefall which was very steep; almost climbed up of icefall when at 5950m leader fell into crevasse; fell 3-4m into crevasse, dislocated right shoulder and climb finished. Ivackovic was with him and managed to help him out of crevasse by pulling him down further into crevasse to place where sleeping wall was possible for him to climb up and out. Slept one night in C1, where decided since it was leader and he was the most experienced member, attempt should not continue. Plan to come next year spring on this "very nice" and difficult route" of 2800 vertical meters. No easier route from Nepal side. Know route problems and saw needed more rope and other gear for very technical route.


expid: KANG04101
peakid: KANG
year: 2004
route1: N Face-Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Helmut Ortner
sponsor: Kartner Osttironer Salzburger Bergfuehrer Expedition
approach: Fly Suketar->Puramba->Cherowa->Sekthub->Ampalapcha->Ghunsa->BC
bcdate: 2004-04-20
smtdate: 2004-05-16
termdate: 2004-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 8500m due to time constraint
campsites: BC(20/04,5100m),C1(25/04,5800m),C2(05/05,6600m),C3(10/05,7200m),xxx(16/05,8500m)
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC at Pangpema
  C1 at usual campsite
  C2 at usual campsite
  C3 at usual campsite.

  Ortner left C3 on 16th at 05:30 hours, reached 8500m at 15:30, then returned to C3 at 19:00 hours. He found a Korean body (he thinks) between 8150-8200m may be of 1998-99 expedition. 

  Leitner up to 7000m near C3 in May. 
  Gratz up to 7400m on 18th. 
  Hanser up to 8400m on 16th. 
  Jud up to 8200m on 18th. 
  Winkler up to 6600m. 

  The expedition team returned to KTM on 28th and leaves on 29th. The expedition paid $30 each to Maoist. The demand was $100 each but sirdar and Pasang Tamang managed to bargain for $30 each.

  Singi Lama up to 8200m on 18th (summited Ama Dablam last October)
  Dorje Tamang, 42, Solukhumbu (Cho Oyu in 2003), up to 7000m


