# exped

expid: MANA17319
peakid: MANA
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Volodymyr Lanko
sponsor: Ukrainian Manaslu Expedition 2017
approach: Trekked via Larkya La
bcdate: 2017-09-05
smtdate: 2017-09-27
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2017-09-29
campsites: BC(05/09,4750m),C1(07/09,5700m),C2(13/09,6300m),C3(19/09,6800m),C4(26/09,7400m),Smt(27/09)
agency: Climbalaya
routememo:
  BC  05/09  4750m
  C1  07/09  5700m
  C2  13/09  6300m
  C3  19/09  6800m
  C4  26/09  7400m
  Smt 27/09  by Lanko at 2 pm.

  Lanko left C4 at 4 am. He spent about 30 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where he arrived at 5 pm. On 28 Sept to BC.

  Lanko left BC on 29 Sept
  	
  Oxygen: Not taken, Not used


expid: MANA17320
peakid: MANA
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: David Pujol
sponsor: You Can Summit Manaslu 2017
approach: Trekked via Larkya La
bcdate: 2017-09-05
smtdate: 2017-09-27
smttime: 0735
termdate: 2017-09-29
campsites: BC(05/09,4750m),C1(09/09,5600m),C2(12/09,6200m),C3(19/09,6900m),C4(26/09,7400m),Smt(27/09)
agency: Climbalaya
routememo:
  BC  05/09  4750m 	
  C1  09/09  5600m
  C2  12/09  6200m
  C3  19/09  6900m
  C4  26/09  7400m
  Smt 27/09  by Pujol, Tshering Wangchu Sherpa, Policarpio at 7:35 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 1:15 am. Many Chinese on the way. They spent about 10 minutes on the summit. They descended to BC, where they arrived 3 pm.

  Team left BC on 29 Sept.
  	
  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C4 to top to C4 by Tshering Wangchu 
    Pujol and Policarpio used no oxygen.

  Sherpa:
   Tshering Wangchu (Tshering Ongchuk), Thamo, 16/03/1983


expid: MANA17321
peakid: MANA
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: Russia
leaders: Alex Abramov
sponsor: Seven Summits Club Manaslu Expedition 2017
countries: Poland
approach: Helicopter to Samagaon
bcdate: 2017-09-12
smtdate: 2017-09-28
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2017-09-30
campsites: BC(12/09,4600m),C1(15/09,5700m),C2(19/09,6400m),C3(26/09,6800m),C4(27/09,7400m),Smt(28-29/09)
agency: 7 Summits Adventure
routememo:
  BC  12/09  4600m
  C1  15/09  5700m
  C2  19/09  6400m (approx)
  C3  26/09  6800m
  C4  27/09  7400m
  Smt 28/09  by Kotylar, Larin, Mezova, Rostovtsev, Safomov, Shakhnovsky, Nurbu,
             Pemba Nurbu, Nurbu Chhiring, Pasang, Ngima Ongdi and Mingma Tenje.
  Smt 29/09  by Smirnov, Berdychowski, Abramov, Muktu Lakpa and Dorchi.

  The summit team consisting of Kotylar, Larin, Mezova, Rostovtsev, Safomov, Shakhnovsky and six Sherpas left C4 at 2 am on 28 Sept and arrived on the summit between 7:20-7:30 am. They stayed on summit for an hour and got back to C4 around 10:30 am, continued to BC where they arrived at 5 pm.

  The second summit team consisting Smirnov, Berdychowski, Abramov, Muktu and Dorje left C4 at 2 am on 29 Sept and got to the top at 5:55 am. They stayed on summit for about 5 minutes and got back to C4 at 7:30 am. There was no body on the summit except this team.

  Volkov went up to C1. He got pneumonia and left BC on 28 Sept and Nepal on 2 Oct.

  Bryk and Mariev trying to summit without supplementary oxygen went up to C2 on 4 Oct and aborted their attempt due to bad weather.

  Kubasov cameraman went up to C3.

  Team left BC on 30 Sept by helicopter.

  Fixed rope: None (money contributed).

  Oxygen:
    From C3-summit–C3 by members, C4-summit-C4 by Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Nurbu, 16/02/1991
    Pemba Nurbu, 28/03/1980
    Nurbu Chhiring, 29/07/1980
    Pasang, 20/02/1983
    Ngima Ongdi, 19/02/1979
    Mingma Tenje, 28/01/1986
    Dorchi, 26/02/1986
    Muktu Lakpa, 21/08/1972
    
    All from Makalu-Barun


expid: MANA17322
peakid: MANA
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: Kosovo
leaders: Flutura Ibrahimi
sponsor: International TAGnepal Manaslu Expedition 2017
countries: Argentina, Switzerland
approach: Trekked via Larkya La
bcdate: 2017-09-05
smtdate: 2017-09-25
smttime: 0530
termdate: 2017-09-27
campsites: BC(05/09,4800m),C1(09/09,5760m),C2(14-15/09,6250m),C3(23/09,6800m),C4(24/09,7400m),Smt(25/09)
agency: TAGnepal Trekking
routememo:
  BC  05/09  4800m
  C1  09/09  5760m
  C2  14-15/09  6250m
  C3  23/09  6800m
  C4  24/09  7400m
  Smt 25/09  by 4 members, 4 hired.

  Summit day schedule (C4->SMT->C4):
  Ibrahimi:   1:10 am => 5:30-6 am? => 8:30 am  
  Guillar:    0:30 am => 8 am => 1 pm 
  Maye/Maret: 1:40 am => 6:40 am => 8:30 am

  Oxygen: From C4 to summit to C4

  Sherpas:
    Ibrahimi:   Nawang Passang, Waku
    Guillar:    Temba Bhote, Sankhuwasabha
    Maye/Maret: Passang Tendi Sherpa, Yaphu-9/Sankhuwasabha, 27/10/83
                Pema Tshering Sherpa, Makalu/Sankhuwasabha


expid: MANA17323
peakid: MANA
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: UK
leaders: Diahanne Gilbert
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Manaslu Expedition 2017
countries: Spain
approach: Helicopter to Samagaon
bcdate: 2017-09-02
smtdate: 2017-09-24
termdate: 2017-09-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(02/09,4750m),C1(07/09,5800m),C2(13/09,6200m),C3(20/09,6700m),C4(24/09,7400m),xxx
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  02/09  4750m
  C1  07/09  5800m
  C2  13/09  6200m
  C3  20/09  6700m
  C4  24/09  7400m
  HPt 24/09  at C4 by Gilbert, Brandin, Lakpa Bhote.

  The whole team reached C3 on 20 Sept with the intention to summit a few days later; however, the weather was bad and they stayed there for two nights. On the night of 23 Sept they tried to go for the summit; however, after about 20 minutes they turned back due to bad weather. 

  On 24 Sept, the whole team made the decision to move to C4. Gilbert, Brandin and Lakpa Bhote arrived at C4 in the early evening. Harvey suffered from frostbite on his left hand and decided to turn back at about 7300m at about 8 pm. He had called for assistance on the radio and Lakpa Bhote descended to him and then both descended to C3, where they arrived at 2 am on 25 Sept. Gilbert and Brandin stayed at C4 for the night.

  On 25 Sept at about 7 am after having spoken to Harvey at 6 am (he sounded absolutely fine), Gilbert and Brandin descended to C3 to be with Harvey and assist him with his frostbite and reunite the team. In the meantime, Lakpa Bhote and Harvey had already left C3 to go to C2. When Gilbert and Brandin reached C3 and did not find the Harvey and Lakpa Bhote, they used the radio to find out where they were. Surendra, the cook, radioed back from BC telling them that Harvey had passed away at the bottom of the fixed ropes about 500m above C2 (6700m).

  According to Lakpa Bhote, he had helped Harvey to move down the fixed ropes as he was having problems with his frostbitten hand, and at the bottom of the ropes, Harvey suddenly collapsed and never gained consciousness. He had died immediately at about 8:30 am. 

  Gilbert and Brandin descended to where Lakpa Bhote and Harvey were. They pitched a tent right where he had collapsed and put Harvey’s body in it. Gilbert, Brandin and Lakpa Bhote descended to BC, where they arrived at 7 pm on 25 Sept.

  On 26 Sept, a helicopter picked up Harvey and took him to Kathmandu. His body will be flown back to the UK at around 1 Oct.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to high point to C3 by members
    From C3 to high point by Lakpa Bhote.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa/Lakpa Bhote, Hatiya-2, Makalu-Barun, 25/10/1984


expid: MANA17324
peakid: MANA
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: USA
leaders: Bill Crouse
sponsor: Crouse Manaslu 2017
countries: Germany
approach: Trekked via Larkya La
bcdate: 2017-09-05
smtdate: 2017-09-25
smttime: 0540
termdate: 2017-09-27
campsites: BC(05/09,4750m),C1(09/09,5773m),C2(14/09,6323m),C3(16/09,6801m),Smt(25/09)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  05/09  4750m
  C1  09/09  5773m
  C2  14/09  6323m
  C3  16/09  6801m
  Smt 25/09  by Kober, Crouse, Lhakpa Wangchu, Siddhi at 5:40 am.

  Summit team left C3 at 10:30 pm on 24 Sept. Nobody else on the route and they had to break trail. They stayed for about half an hour on the summit, then descended to BC, where they arrived at 3:30 pm.

  Team left BC on 27 Sept; 28 Sept by helicopter from Samagaon.
  	
  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members and Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Wangchu, Pangboche, 23/10/1986 
    Siddhi Bahadur Tamang, Simigaon, Dolakha, 07/06/1981


expid: MANA17325
peakid: MANA
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Carole Fuchs
sponsor: Woman to the Top
approach: Trekking via Larkya La
bcdate: 2017-09-02
smtdate: 2017-09-27
smttime: 0500
termdate: 2017-09-28
campsites: BC(02/09,4750m),C1(04/09,5750m),C2(08/09,6300m),C3(26/09,6900m),Smt(27/09)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  02/09  4750m
  C1  04/09  5750m
  C2  08/09  6300m
  C3  26/09  6900m
  Smt 27/09  by Fuchs and Gyaljen at 5 am.

  Summit team left C3 at 8 pm on 26 Sept. The route was busy and they passed many Chinese people. They spent about 5 minutes on the summit and descended to BC, where they arrived at 3 pm.

  Fuchs was initially with Pemba Ongdi; however, they had a falling out and she changed her Sherpa. Gyaljen was from Green Lakes.

  Fuchs left BC on 28 Sept by helicopter.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C4 to top to just above C4 by Fuchs
    Gyaljen from 7800m to top to C4.

  Sherpas:
    Gelije Sherpa, Tapting-3, (2049/07/27)
    Pemba Ongdi, Yaphu-9, Makalu-Barun, 29/11/1987


expid: MANA17326
peakid: MANA
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: Iran
leaders: Hadi Sattar
sponsor: Iranian Manaslu Expedition 2017
approach: Trekked via Larkya La
bcdate: 2017-09-07
smtdate: 2017-09-26
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2017-09-29
campsites: BC(07/09,4750m),C1(10/09,5500m),C2(15/09,6300m),C3(24/09,6800m),C4(25/09,7400m),Smt(26-27/09)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  BC  07/09  4750m
  C1  10/09  5500m
  C2  15/09  6300m
  C3  24/09  6800m
  C4  25/09  7400m
  Smt 26/09  by Shahpari, Keshavarzi, Lakpa, Nima Sherpa at 8:30 am
  	27/09  by Sattar at 11 am (without oxygen)

  26 Sept summit team left C4 at 4 am. Conditions and weather good, a bit windy. They spent about 30 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at 4:30 pm. On 27 Sept back to BC.

  Sattar left C4 at 6 am without oxygen. Straightforward climb. He spent about 1-1/2 hours on the summit. He was there with 3 other people. He descended to C2, where he arrived at 6 pm. On 28 Sept he reached BC at 11 am.

  Team left BC on 28-29 Sept. 28 Sept by helicopter from Samagaon, 30 Sept (Sattar) helicopter from Samagaon.
  	
  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C4 to top C3 by Shahpari and Keshavarzi
    Lakpa, Nima and Sattar without oxygen.


expid: MANA17327
peakid: MANA
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: Iran
leaders: Javad Narouzi
sponsor: Iranian Team Himalaya Manaslu Peak 2017
approach: Trekked via Larkya La
bcdate: 2017-09-12
smtdate: 2017-09-27
smttime: 1250
termdate: 2017-09-29
campsites: BC(12/09,4750m),C1(15/09,5800m),C2(16/09,6300m),C3(25/09,6800m),C4(26/09,7450m),Smt(27/09)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  BC  12/09  4750m
  C1  15/09  5800m
  C2  16/09  6300m
  C3  25/09  6800m
  C4  26/09  7450m
  Smt 27/09  by Javad Narouzi at 12.50 pm, Tavassoule, Gholampour, Hajjar Zarrin, 
             Nuru Gyalzen Sherpa and Phunuru at 1.15 pm.

  Summit team left C4 at 4:50 am. Team spent about 20 minutes on the summit. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 6 pm. On 28 Sept everyone back to BC, where they arrived at 11 pm. 

  Akbari reached C3 on 17 Sept. He felt sick and decided to abandon the expedition.

  Team left BC on 29 Sept; 30 Sept by helicopter from Samagaon.
  	
  Oxygen:
    Taken and used fro C3 to top to C3 by Tavassoule
    From C4 to top by Hajjar Zarrin and Gholampour
    Narouzi from C4 to top to C4
    Nuru Gyalzen and Phunuru did not use oxygen to the top, Phunuru from 
      C4 to C3 on the descent.

  Sherpas:
    Nuru Gyalzen, Khumjung-9, Solukhumbu, 2030/05/02
    Phunuru Sherpa, Kurima (Bagur), Lokhim-9, 27/07/1982


expid: MANA17328
peakid: MANA
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: Russia
leaders: Igor Mitroshenkov
sponsor: Russian Manaslu Expedition 2017
approach: Trekked via Larkya La
bcdate: 2017-09-11
smtdate: 2017-09-30
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2017-10-04
campsites: BC(11/09,4800m),C1(14/09,5600m),C2(15/09,6300m),C3(22/09,6900m),C4(29/09,7400m),Smt(30/09)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  BC  11/09  4800m
  C1  14/09  5600m
  C2  15/09  6300m
  C3  22/09  6900m
  C4  29/09  7400m
  Smt 30/09  by Mitroshenkov and Lukin at 1 pm.

  Summit day started from C4 at 5 am, summited at 1 pm, back to C4 at 4 pm. All 3 on day after were back to BC. 
  	 
  Summit attempt abandoned by Andrei Brinzov at 7700m due to coldness.

  Team left BC on 4 Oct.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


expid: MANA17330
peakid: MANA
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Catalina Quesada
sponsor: Lina on Manaslu 2017
approach: Trekked via Larkya La
bcdate: 2017-09-11
smtdate: 2017-09-25
smttime: 1145
termdate: 2017-09-28
campsites: BC(11/09,4750m),C1(14/09,5700m),C2(15/09,6360m),C3(16/09,6717m),C4(24/09,7425m),Smt(25/09)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  BC  11/09  4750m
  C1  14/09  5700m
  C2  15/09  6360m
  C3  16/09  6717m
  C4  24/09  7425m
  Smt 25/09  by Quesada Castro and Thunang Lhomi at 11:4 5am.

  Team left C4 at 3:30 am. Thunang Lhomi did not feel very well, so they went slowly. They spent about 5 minutes on the summit. They descended to C4, had a rest and a drink there and dismantled the tent. They continued to C3, where they arrived at 6 pm. On 26 Sept back to BC. 

  Quesada left BC on 28 Sept.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used

  Sherpa:
    Thunang Lhomi Bhote, Hungung, Hatiya-1, Makalu-Barun, 01/08/1986


expid: MANA17332
peakid: MANA
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: India
leaders: Jitesh Popatlal Modi
sponsor: Satori International Manaslu Expedition 2017
countries: Australia, Canada, France, Israel, Japan, Nepal
approach: Trekked via Larkya La, or helicopter to Samagaon
bcdate: 2017-09-13
smtdate: 2017-09-27
smttime: 0510
termdate: 2017-09-28
campsites: BC(13/10,4800m),C1(15/09,5800m),C2(18/09,6400m),C3(25/09,6900m),C4(26/09,7400m),Smt(27/09)
agency: Satori Adventures
routememo:
  Velev: The conditions was perfect on the night 26-27 of Sept. No winter. The temperature was maybe -15C during the night, but the morning was not cold and on the summit we stayed a long time. There were many climbers and we waited a lot for the picture.

  Sherpas:
    Pema Tshering, Makalu-9 (with Brian Bethell)


expid: MANA17333
peakid: MANA
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Ricardo Bergamini
sponsor: Italian Manaslu Expedition 2017
approach: See route notes
bcdate: 2017-09-10
smtdate: 2017-09-27
smttime: 0530
termdate: 2017-09-29
campsites: BC(10/09,4700m),C1(15/09,5700m),C2(19/09,6300m),C3(25/09,6800m),C4(26/09,7400m),Smt(27/09)
agency: Satori Adventures
routememo:
  Approach:
    Perruchon and Zigliotto via Besisahar->Laukepani->Samagaon. 
    Bergamini and Cerazza by heli to Samagaon on 10 September.

  BC  10,12/09 4700m
  C1  15/09    5700m
  C2  19/09    6300m
  C3  25/09    6800m
  C4  26/09    7400m
  Smt 27/09    by Perruchon, Zigliotto, Bergamini, Cerazza, Mingma [Temba], 
               Mingma Tenji, Lhakpa [Tashi] and Pema.

  This team climbed in tandem with the Satori International Expedition.

  Perruchon, Zigliotto, Bergamini, Cerazza, Mingma, Mingma Tenji, Lhakpa and Pema started their summit bid from C4 at 1 am on 27 Sept. Perruchon and Lhakpa reached summit at 5:30 am and stayed on summit between 20-30 minutes and returned to C4 around 9 am. Cerazza reached summit at 6 am, stayed on summit 3 hours and back to C4 at 1 pm. Bergamini reached summit at 8:15 am with Mingma and stayed on summit one hour and back to C4 at 1:30 pm. Zigliotto reached summit at 10 am, stayed on summit one hour and back to C4 at 2 pm. 

  Perruchon went down to BC where he arrived around 2 pm same day. Rest of climbers went to C2 where they arrived at 4:30 pm and next day went down to BC. Summit day weather was very good, sunny and clear sky. Ahead of them there were 10-15 Chinese climbers and behind them about 5 climbers.

  Team left BC on 29 September

  Fixed rope: None (money contributed).

  Oxygen:
   Bergamini without oxygen [others used oxygen]
   C4-summit-C4 by Sherpas.


expid: MANA17334
peakid: MANA
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: Romania
leaders: Madalina Condrea
sponsor: Romanian Manaslu Expedition 2017
approach: Trekked via Larkya La
bcdate: 2017-09-10
smtdate: 2017-09-25
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2017-09-27
campsites: BC(10/09,4800m),C1(15/09,5600m),C2(19/09,6300m),C3(23/09,6800m),C4(24/09,7600m),Smt(25/09)
agency: Ticino Treks (Satori Adventures pmt)
routememo:
  Condrea and Mingma left C4 at 2:30 am, summited at 7:30 am, stayed 10 minutes, then descended to C2. Little wind, clear sky full of stars, cold...sunny and beautiful weather on the summit after the sunrise.

  Oxygen: 
    From 7200m to top to 7500m by Condrea, from C4 to top to C4 by Mingma.

  Condrea left BC on 27 Sept by helicopter to Kathmandu.

  Slight frostbite on right foot.


expid: MANA17335
peakid: MANA
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Etsuko Ushikubo
sponsor: Japanese Manaslu Expedition 2017
approach: Helicopter to Samagaon
bcdate: 2017-09-12
smtdate: 2017-09-24
smttime: 0920
termdate: 2017-09-28
campsites: BC(12/09,4750m),C1(15/09,5800m),C2(16/09,6400m),C3(22/09,6700m),C4(23/09,7400m),Smt(24/09)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  BC  12/09  4750m
  C1  15/09  5800m
  C2  16/09  6400m
  C3  22/09  6700m
  C4  23/09  7400m
  Smt 24/09  by Ushikubo, Pemba Geljen, Pemba Nuru at 9:20 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 4 am. Conditions and weather good. Spent about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to C3.

  Ushikubo left BC on 28 Sept	by heli from Samagaon.
  	
  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C3

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Geljen Sherpa, Namche, 22/07/69
    Pemba Nuru Sherpa, Namche, 03/02/72


expid: MANA17336
peakid: MANA
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: Norway
leaders: Einar Jonsbu
sponsor: Norwegian on Manaslu 2017
approach: Trekked via Larkya La
bcdate: 2017-09-10
smtdate: 2017-09-25
smttime: 0605
termdate: 2017-09-27
campsites: BC(10/09,4750m),C1(13/09,5850m),C2(16/09,6250m),C3(24/09,6800m),Smt(25/09)
agency: Tseringma Treks
routememo:
  BC  10/09  4750m
  C1  13/09  5850m
  C2  16/09  6250m
  C3  24/09  6800m
  Smt 25/09  by Jonsbu and Karma at 6:05 am.

  Summit team left C3 at 10:30 pm on 24 Sept. He was climbing with William Crouse and Tanja (who summited at 5:30 am). They reached the end of the fixed rope. They stayed about 10 minutes on the summit and then to C3, packed up and continued to BC, where they arrived at 7:30 pm.

  Jonsbu left BC on 27 Sept; 28 Sept by helicopter from Samagaon.
  	
  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Jonsbu
    Karma Sherpa did not use oxygen.

  Sherpa:
    Karma Sherpa, Lukla, 30 yrs 


expid: MANA17337
peakid: MANA
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Leo Hofer
sponsor: Italian Manaslu Expedition 2017
approach: Helicopter to Samagaon
bcdate: 2017-10-06
smtdate: 2017-10-12
termdate: 2017-10-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to too much snow, too dangerous
campsites: BC(06/10,4800m),C1(08/10,5500m),C2(17/10,6000m),xxx(12/10,6100m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  The following description was translated from German by Google:

  The weather was good. It has snowed twice too much for us. We were still quite fit when we canceled the expedition. Whether we reached the summit without snow is questionable.

  The snow before we arrived was not that bad. In the beginning we had quite good conditions. Especially the sun meant it well with us.

  What I noticed is that on photos and videos of our predecessors, the crevasses between Basecamp and Camp 1 were much more.

  Between Camp 1 and 2 at our first ladder over the first column, the 2 ladders were completely in the air. Since the column has opened within a short time at least 1 meter more. That was our highest point about 6100 meters. When we turned around we did not know yet that we would not reach this place at the summit attempt.

  At the summit attempt, it snowed about 30 cm the day before. The glaciers between Camp 1 and 2 were no longer recognizable. We had stowed our straps and rope between Camp 1 and 2 in the tent and had to cut off a piece of fixed rope to secure ourselves.

  Below Camp 1 at 5500m we had our touring skis stored in another tent. With the skis it went relatively quickly to the tent below Camp 2 where we had our second tent with straps, sleeping bags and so on. After all, 1100 meters in 7 hours. Then it snowed through the night until noon the next day. We all slept badly and we did not see any more about the expedition to continue. We could certainly have gone farther. But if we had reached the summit is rather questionable.

  The two Sherpas with the Chinese woman [Gao Xiao-Dan] had left in base camp one hour after we had slept in Camp 1. We then talked to each other and they told us that they will join us the next day to Camp 2. After much deliberation, we fast our decision to break off the expedition and ski down between snowy crevasses. Halfway in front of Camp 1, the 2 Sherpas came to meet us with huge backpacks and the petite Chinese. They had left on the same day. I think if they had been half an hour early we would have tried it. Because together with so much snow it would have been easier for the Sherpas.

  We apologized that we had broken off our summit attempt and could not help them anymore.

  Then we went with the skis to the tent below Camp 1, dismantled everything and drove with the heavy backpacks towards base camp. When we arrived at the base camp it was 8 pm. Our cooks made us something to eat and disappointed we went to sleep.
  The next day cloudless again. We were able to watch the 2 Sherpas with the telescope as they slowly but surely worked towards Camp 3 upwards. Brutal guys with such a weight.

  The next day we had the helicopter flight back to Kathmandu. Of course, he did not arrive punctually, so we waited 5 hours and watched the Sherpas heading for Camp 4. They did not have that much snow anymore. The wind has blown away the snow in height.

  Then the helicopter came and we landed in Samagaon, where we met the cook of the Sherpas. He was in radio contact with the Sherpas (Nima and Lapka) at Camp 4. We talked to them and congratulated them on the performance.

  Then the helicopter came from another flight in the meantime and we flew to Kathmandu. On the way we were lucky that we did not crash, because an eagle or bearded vulture made an attack on the Hubschrsuber. The pilot responded at the last second and was able to avoid. The bird collided with the end of the helicopter and we saw the bloodstains on arrival in Kathmandu. If he had caught the rear propeller, it would have crashed. Lucky.


expid: MANA17338
peakid: MANA
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Stephan Keck
sponsor: Manaslu Film Expedition 2017
countries: Italy
approach: Trekked via Larkya La
bcdate: 2017-11-05
smtdate: 2017-11-12
termdate: 2017-11-16
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to too much snow and avalanche danger
campsites: BC(05/11,4750m),C1(08/11,5650m),C2(12/11,6400m),xxx
agency: Friends Adventure Team
routememo:
  BC  05/11  4750m
  C1  08/11  5650m
  C2  12/11  6400m by Keck, Kammerlander, Goeberl plus 4 Sherpas.

  When the team arrived, which was late in the season, there was already a lot of snow on the mountain and at BC. The crevasses already seemed bigger than earlier in the season as the ladders were too small for the crevasses.

  Climb abandoned on 14 Nov due to too much snow and avalanche danger too high. The main purpose of this expedition was the shoot the film about Hans Kammerlander's life. 

  Keck took his paraglider from BC to Samagaon on 16 Nov. He stayed the night in Samagaon and left on 17 Nov at 9 am. He trekked for 22 hours and 15 minutes and arrived in Seti Khola at 7:15 am. He then took a jeep to Kathmandu.

  Fixed rope:	about 200m between C1 and C2.
  	
  Oxygen: Medical only


expid: MANA17339
peakid: MANA
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: India
leaders: Keval Kakka
sponsor: GSM International Manaslu Expedition 2017
countries: Poland
approach: Trekked via Larkya La
bcdate: 2017-09-14
smtdate: 2017-09-27
smttime: 0842
termdate: 2017-09-30
campsites: BC(14/09,4400m),C1(16/09,5400m),C2(20/09,6240m),C3(25/09,6750m),C4(26/09,7450m),Smt(27/09)
agency: Meraki Adventure/Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  BC  14/09  4400m
  C1  16/09  5400m
  C2  20/09  6240m
  C3  25/09  6750m
  C4  26/09  7450m
  Smt 27/09  by Kakka and Sange Sherpa.

  Kakka and Sange started their summit push at 3 am on 27 Sept. They reached summit at 08:42 am and stayed on summit for one hour. They returned C4 at 12:30 pm, then continued to C3 where they arrived at 5:30 pm and slept there. Next day 28 Sept went down to BC. 

  Kakka left BC on 30 Sept by helicopter.

  Oxygen: Member from 7680m to summit (desceding not used).


  Boguslaw Magrel also summited on 27 Sept. The three Poles were affiliated with the Meraki Adventures team.


expid: MANA17341
peakid: MANA
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Sophie Lavaud
sponsor: Green Lakes/Pioneer Adventures Manaslu 2017
countries: Australia, China, Nepal
approach: Helicopter to Samagaon
bcdate: 2017-09-10
smtdate: 2017-09-26
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2017-09-28
campsites: BC(10/09,4750m),C1(14/09,5767m),C2(15/09,6360m),C3(19/09,6717m),C4(25/09,7425m),Smt(26/09)
agency: Green Lake Trek/Pioneer Adventures
routememo:
  Two women's teams climbed together:

  BC  10/09  4750m
  C1  14/09  5767m
  C2  15/09  6360m
  C3  19/09  6717m
  C4  25/09  7425m
  Smt 26/09  by Phunjo, Lama, Purnima Shrestha, Tenzi Nima and Gesman at 7:30 am
             Lavaud and Na Dorje at 8 am

  Lama, Shrestha, Tenzi Nima and Gesman left C4 at 1 am. Lavaud and Na Dorje left C4 at 2:30 am. Weather clear but very windy. The wind died down on the summit ridge. They stayed on the summit for about one hour. They descended to BC, where they arrived between 4 pm and 10 pm.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from 7900m to top by Lavaud
    From C4 to top to C4 by the rest of the team.

  Sherpas:
    Na Dorje (Nga Dorje), Makalu-9, Makalu-Barun, 19/12/1975
    Tenzi Nima, Chaurikharka-4, (2044/07/05)
    Gesman Tamang, Kerung-5, (2045/01/13)

  BC  11/09  4600m
  C1  16/09  5600m
  C2  19/09  6200m
  C3  24/09  6600m
  C4  25/09  7300m
  Smt 26/09  by McMahon and Lhakpa at 7:30 am
             He Chang-Juan with Tenzing Lama at 8:30 am
            	
  Oxygen:
    Taken from very near to the summit for He Chang-Juan (8100m), then on descent
      with the others
    For the others use from C4 to summit to C3.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Sherpa, Walung, Makalu-Barun, 25/12/91
    Tenzing Lama, Solukhumbu


expid: MANA17343
peakid: MANA
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Manuel Sanchez Galindo
sponsor: Andalucia Manaslu Expedicion 2017
approach: Trekked via Larkya La
bcdate: 2017-09-07
smtdate: 2017-09-27
smttime: 0840
termdate: 2017-09-29
campsites: BC(07/09,4750m),C1(10/09,5850m),C2(24/09,6300m),C3(25/09,6900,),C4(26/09,6900m),Smt(27/09)
agency: Bochi Bochi Treks (Snowy Horizon pmt)
routememo:
  BC  07/09  4750m
  C1  10/09  5850m
  C2  24/09  6300m
  C3  25/09  6900m
  C4  26/09  7400m
  Smt 27/09  by Garcia Gomez, Ramesh Gurung 8:40 am.

  The three climbing members (including Sanchez) left C4 at 12:30 am. Weather was fine, but cold. At 7800m at about 4:30 am Sanchez decided to turn back as he was feeling tired and had no energy. He was not using oxygen. He descended to C4, where he arrived at 6 am.

  They spent about 10 minutes on the summit and they descended to C4, where they arrived at 12 noon. They picked up Sanchez and descended to C3, where they arrived at 6 pm. On 28 Sept, everyone down at BC.

  Team left BC 29 Sept by helicopter from BC.

  Oxygen: Taken and used 8000m to the top to C4 by Garcia Gomez

  Sherpa:
    Ramesh Gurung, Limgam, Hatiya-7, 29/06/1988 (2045/03/15)


expid: NAG116301
peakid: NAG1
year: 2016
route1: SW Face
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Yves Igonenc
sponsor: Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne (GMHM) Nangpai Gosum I Exp 2016
approach: Lukla->Thami->Tashi Lapcha->Arye->BC
bcdate: 2016-10-07
smtdate: 2016-10-17
termdate: 2016-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to injury to Maynadier from falling ice
campsites: BC(07/10,5200m),ABC(08/10),C1(16/10,6200m),xxx(17/10,6600m)
agency: Mountain Tribes Trekking
routememo:
  Small team climbing in alpine style. 4 climbing members are Pierre Labbre, Mathieu Maynadier, Sebastien Moatti and Sebastien Ratel. Leader Jean-Yves Igonenc stayed in BC in support along with doctor Benoit Ginon.

  Team left France on the 13 Sept, arrived in KTM on the 14 Sept.

  After they were blocked in KTM because of bad weather conditions, they could eventually fly in helicopter from KTM to Namche Bazar on the 19 Sept.

  Team had a preliminary acclimatization period 100m above Tashi Lapcha. First intended to acclimatize on Pachermo, but too much dangerous snow there.

  20-21 Sept: Thame
  22 Sept:    Tengbo
  23-24 Sept: Pachermo base camp (hut).
  25-28 Sept: continued acclimatization a bit higher.
  29 Sept:    back to Pachermo base camp.
  30 Sept:    back to Thame.

  First contact with the Nangpai Gosum SW Face:

  08 Oct: from base camp to ABC. 
  09 Oct: the 4 members reached future C1 site, digging in ice and snow to prepare
          the platform. Back to ABC that day.
  10 Oct: back to BC for rest. 

  First attempt in the face:

  15 Oct: from BC to ABC.
  16 Oct: from ABC to C1. Rimaye had opened itself since their first visit. 2 to 3 
          buttress (60, 70°) then 3 hard pitches at the end of the day (80°/ 
          90°/grade 4+).

  17-18 Oct: Started at 5 am, high point at 3:30-4:00 pm at 6600m by all four members. First had 3 traverse pitches on slabs covered with snow (M4). Then the crux went straight above with first a good dry cracky climbing offering good protections, then after a pull-up, had a fragile but also well protectable 90° steep ice (6300m). From there, had goulottes and plaquages (about 10 pitches in average grade 4) until Maynadier's arm got hit by a piece of ice at 6600m, his arm being quickly swollen. After a contact with the doctor reassuring, group had a 1 to 1-1/2 hour talk (despite all members were still in fact being exposed to rock/ice falls). They eventually decided to go back down straight to the BC. They reached the glacier at foot of the face at 3:30 am the next day, ABC at 4 am and BC at 1 or 2 pm. 

  Had planned for C2 at 6800/6900m for that day (above last difficulties on a thin snow ridge).

  Stayed an other night resting in BC, then went back to Thame in a day. They didn't want to give another try despite good conditions, everyone fearing somewhat new exposure to the rock/ice falls.

  Route in fact generally exposed to objective risks as it uses the main corridor separating NAG2 from its subpeak. Every member was hit by piece of stone or ice at least once: Labbre received one stone on one hand during first visit (it was swollen then back to normal). Moatti got helmet cracked in two pieces plus fur jacket scratched (after he had repaired it with tape, he would later discover that some stones were still remaining in it!). Ratel was hit on the shoulder.

  Problem is that the face takes sun from 9 am to 5 pm, then with the inertia, falls continue until morning's beginning. "It never stops", indeed leaving a short window for safety (end of the night to 9-10 am). Moatti wonders if there hasn't been some recent rock massiv fall in the face, as he remarked some black marks in the face. 

  But some nice pitches and lust to go back (a great base camp!) and try again.


expid: NAG117301
peakid: NAG1
year: 2017
route1: S Face (Japanese rte)
nation: Germany
leaders: Jost Kobusch
sponsor: Kobusch Nangpai Gosum I Expedition Autumn 2017
ascent1: 1st
approach: Trek to Gokyo->Renjo La->Lunde
bcdate: 2017-09-05
smtdate: 2017-10-03
smttime: 1025
termdate: 2017-10-05
agency: Satori Adventures
routememo:
  Note: The Ministry issued the permit for Nangpai Gosum II, but the team climbed Nangpa Gosum I. The Ministry designations for NAG1 and NAG2 are in error.

  BC  05/09  5080m
  ABC 08/09+30/09	5600m (below a steep granite wall)
  C1  01/10  6400m
  C2  02/10  6840m
  Smt 03/10  by Kobusch at 10:25 am.

  [Base camp Sherpa staff] established BC by the river and they choose the spot probably due to a cairn that was there, however, Kobusch thinks that the real BC is about 2 kilometers further up at about 5100m near the moraine and river to the left.

  On his first trip to ABC, Kobusch spent about three nights up there. He had carried some ropes and equipment there. He carried about 280m of rope.

  On 25 Sept Kobusch tried to climb the “French route”. He put a camp at 6100m on 24 Sept, as he was able to pitch a tent on a little platform. The day after he traversed straight up to the right towards the beginning of the difficulties. After a first 30m pitch, during a second 60m pitch he had to cope with a short 3m WI4+/5 ice section (crux of his attempt). Followed a 150m traverse to the left (60°, with blue ice in the middle, all the way exposed to rock falls); from there he climbed about 40m up, left to a typical chimney. As he was reaching to about 6300m, he stopped below an overhanging section. The route was definitely too dry and the weather too warm, the ice being very thin, brittle and melting. As he deemed the route too dangerous (much exposed to rock and ice fall from C1) and the risk to be not acceptable at this stage, he decided to turn back at 2 pm.

  After his first belay try had collapsed (only hold by 1 piton!), he manage to add a second piton, abseiling then down-traversing the 150m traverse secured by the abseil rope. Then installed an “octopus like” belay on 4 anchors including 2 pitons, 1 micro stopper, and still connected to the first belay (1 ice screw he had placed there on the way up, full depth, had already completely melted! Took it back with him – in these conditions, he in fact didn't sacrifice any of the ice screws he had placed!). Next 3rd abseil also in “octopus like” style, on 4 anchors including 1 piton and 3 stoppers (all put in the same crack!). Last 4th abseil at the “French belay”, made by 2 friends and 1 piton that he connected himself. All belays were connected in fact from the first belay. Left from there again 100m of rope. Stayed the night in C1 then returned to BC on the day after.

  On the French route, had fixed about 300m of rope for ascent and descent. He had initially planned to fix 500m for the whole route (2 sets of 220m nylon rope without soul, plus 1 set of 60m “sailing rope” of slightly better quality), then to free climb the easier parts with a 60m Ultra light Petzl “Red line” model in the bag.

  Route prone to objective dangers, with lots of ice fall down then rock falls up (on descent, as he had reached the 150m traverse beginning, he saw that the rope fixed there on the way up had been cut by some rock fall…). C1 was prone to a kind of snow repetations perpetual accumulation. Lower part of the face always touched by avalanches. More objective dangers than Annapurna I normal route.

  Schardt accompanied Kobusch to ABC once to document the climb. He never intended to go any higher on the mountain. He did not carry anything for Kobusch.

  Kobusch started his summit push on the Japanese/Nepali route (26 of Oct 2006) from ABC on 30 Sept. He would use a variation in the lowest part, coming much more from the left than the Japanese did, this by a long traverse. He left ABC at about 3 am, the weather was quite cloudy and the route quite difficult to find; however, he was able to remember the route from the picture he had looked at beforehand. In the lower part he had to traverse towards the right across the face. The face was about 60° in average, up to 70°. The conditions were quite difficult here as the face was lined with marks from avalanches. The lines were mixed blue ice incrusted sometimes with rock, alternating with piles of sugary snow. He had to kick in his feet very hard. He reached C1 at about 4 pm that day.

  From C1 to C2 the conditions were good and he climbed up a big white flat snowy gully to C2 (50-55° steep). That climb took him about four hours.

  On summit day (2 Oct) he got up at 10 pm and left his camp at midnight. He climbed up the face first on snowy conditions (50° slopes). From there begun the 100m crux section, where he globally had to cross a steep ridge towards the left. After he had done so, at 2 stages, he had to cope with 5/6m vertical in “sugar on rock” condition. Conditions for the whole section were mixed (no real blue ice), with some sugary snow sections (“sugar on rock”), more or less stable and steep, making the climb demanding, all on the feet and subtle balances. Last section afterwards was 50° snow slopes in good condition.

  When in windy conditions he reached the top of the Japanese route (SW subpeak of Nangpai Gosum I at 7235m, which isn't very easy to distinguish according to Kobusch), he traversed NE on the ridge, slightly down then up to a higher bump, from where he dropped down again for about 100m into a ditch. He then had to climb up again for about 180m in difficult snow conditions (powder snow about knee to waist deep) to reach the summit at 10:25 am (climb rate on that day: 661m/10, 416=63mh). The distance from the exit of the Japanese route to the top is about 800m in length. The summit itself is a knife-edge point.

  He spent about 45 minutes on the summit to do some filming, in some winds gusts up to 60km/h. At some stage he suddenly understood that Cho Oyu was lying just nearby! He left some prayer flags on the summit with a bamboo. On descent there was a whiteout on the plateau due to high winds, his tracks were gone and he almost got lost to reach back the exit of the Japanese route. The down-climb of the crux was scary, down-climbing it solo as he hadn't taken any rope. He reached C2 at 6 pm.

  On 4 Oct at 10 am and descended all the way to BC, where he arrived at about 5 pm.

  When he reached BC, he met the Korean climber Kim who was on his attempt to climb the mountain. 

  Kobusch climbed light and without a rope (he wore a harness and had one screwgate carabiner), being eventually faster than expected (1 day faster). Despite clearly less technical than the French route, he considers the route to remain serious anyway, as he had to use his two ice axes during the whole way. It might be a route suitable for extreme skiers anyway!

  Team left BC on 5 Oct, arrived in Ktmdu 7 Oct from Lukla by plane.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


expid: NUPW07101
peakid: NUPW
year: 2007
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Diego Giovannini
sponsor: Nuptse 2007
bcdate: 2007-04-28
smtdate: 2007-05-19
termdate: 2007-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to gear lost, men tired, too small of a team
campsites: BC(28/04,5350m),xxx(19/05,6400m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Parajuli)
routememo:
  BC at Everest BC site
  High point at NW Ridge.

  2 May both members started up NW Ridge, taking turns leading. Could work on route only 8 days because of too much snow and avalanching fixing foot of ridge at 5300m to 6400m on very steep ridge (90-95 degrees in one rock section) of ice, snow, rock. Team gear stored near bottom of ridge in small valley and on 21st found Dina (4 meters deep lake and gear lost). Meanwhile very tired and gear gone and team too small: need 4-member team so pairs can take turns making route. Giovannini wants to return this autumn with 3 other members.


expid: NUPW16301
peakid: NUPW
year: 2016
route1: S Face of Nuptse II (7732m)
nation: France
leaders: Helias Millerioux
sponsor: French Nuptse Expedition 2016
approach: Lukla->Namche->Chhukung
bcdate: 2016-09-24
smtdate: 2016-10-19
termdate: 2016-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7450m due to exhaustion and short weather window
campsites: BC(24/09,5430m),C1(15/10,6050m),C2(16/10,6570m),C3(17/10,6860m),C4(18/10,7080m),xxx(7450m)
agency: Holiday Himalaya Treks
routememo:
  From Fredrice Degoulet website:

  What a great adventure ...

  Separated September 13 in Nepal, the objective to open a new way in the south face of Nuptse Nup II, 7742m. This summit is located in the Khumbu valley just in front of the Everest and on the same ridge as the Lhotse (8516m). The team will be the same as that of the Siula Chicco (Ben Guigonnet, Robin Revest, Helias Millerioux and myself), a team that works. After an acclimatization of about a month we are ready to try the face ...

  Success, so close and so far away.

  We were not far from succeeding, giving up towards 7350-7400m. But up there any decision is crucial.

  Weather forecasts, wind, fatigue, bivouacs, stress, objective dangers, altitude, hydration, food that no longer passes, lack of energy, small bobos, stoves that take more and more time to supply the vital water, the management of socks, downs and gloves that become impregnated with moisture diminishing their performances, while the conditions become more and more extreme. All this mixed up is absolutely extreme to handle ...

  We have surely taken a bad decision up there by trying it all on this fifth day in one push mode, with no backpack, without back up if we drank on difficulties too long in time to overcome. 700m to swallow to over 7000m, too presumptuous, too confident. Especially since the itinerary was uncertain, we all said that it would not be obvious, but surmountable. It was not, we climbed steep slopes, then flute ices extremely steep, unsuitable on 300m in 8 hours ... We had not made half the way we still had to do and we were still not In easy terrain. The altitude undermined our confidence, our dexterity, our mind, our abilities simply. And everything would take even more time. A final length that led to a cul de sac ended up completing us and we realized at one blow that everything was over, that it was too long, too hard to reach the top that day. Without bivouac on us, it was impossible for us to remain here and to try again the next day, from our highest point, to reach the summit. A blatant strategic error, but at that time it seemed obvious to us.


  Fred Degoulet (via Rodolphe Popier)

  Details of climb :

  14 Sep: Arrival in KTM
  16 Sep: KTM to Lukla (2 days waiting for luggage!)
  19 Sep: To Namche Bazar
  20-22 Sep: Namche Bazar to Tengboche to Dingboche to Chhukung
  23 Sep: Chhukung to Chhukung Ri, back to Chhukung

  24-27 Sep: First acclimatization stay, 3 nights at 5430m base camp (below Nuptse South Face, immediately southeast of peak 5740 at two lakes). On 27 Sep, reached a peak at 5535m, then back to Chhukung on that day. Hard to find a good place at 6500m for acclimatization in surroundings.

  01 Oct: Spent one night at Amphu Lapcha (5845m).

  02-06 Oct: second acclimatization stay, spent 4 nights short below summit of peak 6230m in an igloo (reached after a crossing on south side of the ridge coming from Amphu Lapcha and a corridor/couloir). "Boring time, but good views on the South Face of Lhotse and Nuptse" says Degoulet. Back to Chhukung on the 6 Oct for rest, descending by the north side of the peak.

  12 Oct: Weather begun to improve.
  14 Oct: Chhukung to 5430m BC.

  15 Oct: Ascent started. C1 reached at noon. 2 hours preparing the camp terrace.

  16 Oct: C2 reached at 6 pm after a start at 4:30 am (13-hour ascent). Long day, exposed to the objective risks. 7 hard pitches (5+/4/4+/5+,6/3+,4/3+/3) then steep snow. 2 hours hard work to prepare the camp terrace.

  17 Oct: during the night, a small stone traversed one of the tents. Started at 4 am, reached C3 approximately at noon. 30 min searching for the bivouac place. Difficulties on that day: 4 hard pitches (4+,5/idem/idem/4+), a snow shelf, an easy ramp (3,3+), then the second snow shelf exposed to the falls risk (tried to shelter the bivy thanks to the relative overhanging of the cliff).

  18 Oct: after a hard night, 4:38 am ascent to pass the ascent crux section (200m high). After reaching a first belay 30m from their bivouac, Helias led a grade 6 pitch (M5 in second of rope according to Degoulet; Helias aided a short overhanging section at the end of that pitch). Then had a gorgeous 60m section (ice grade 3) in a gully (bit exposed to ice falls). Then forced a last dreadful rotten section ("rock-like sand"), having a 1,5m aid section (A2); second of ropes tried but couldn't pass it in free climbing (estimated to M5).

  Reached that day the bottom of the final corridor leading almost straight to the most western summit of Nuptse. Using a bivouac hidden from the falls going down by the corridor.

  19 Oct: group decided to leave for a summit push without any bivouac gear to go faster. Started at 5:30 am from bivouac. After an 8-hour ascent, just after they had reached a point at the highly ice fluted ridge, Guigonnet was blocked 60m higher at 7450m in hard ground right of the ridge, being in fact out of the initial theoretical route they had planned from peak 6230m and still quite far below the theoretical C5 in such technical ground at this altitude.

  Back to the belay, the group had a short briefing. They knew that the weather window with no wind would last from 2 pm to 10 pm on that day. So they still had 8h in front of them, but without bivouac gear and with relatively slow progress so far (400m in 8 hours), Degoulet and Revest also beginning to feel some first minor signs of high altitude deterioration (frostbites beginning for Revest, mental loss of confidence beginning for Degoulet), they instead decided to go back down to their bivouac and make up new plans. Back there, after contacting their weather forecasters, Guigonnet feeling well and Millerioux being keen to continue, both evoked the idea to try again on the next day from their last bivouac, mostly as the weather forecast had informed them about a weather window from 2 pm to 6 pm on 20 Oct (shorter in se, and on 21 Oct, the weather would turned bad). Revest and Degoulet would wait for them at the bivouac. However, they eventually decided to turn back all down and descended straight to C2 and slept there.

  20 Oct: after a wrong attempt to abseil straight (in a complete overhanging section), they choose to retrace their ascent line instead, thus reaching footstep of the face at 11:30 am, BC at 13:00 pm, then Chhukung at 15:30 pm.

  The route is a bit exposed to objective risks, but quite well sheltered from western winds. The quartet intends to come back and try again, if no one has managed to succeed in-between.

  Nicolas Ferraud, Stephane Benoist and Damien Tomasi were helping with the forecast routing.

  High point on 29 Pct at 7450m by all four members.

  Fixed rope: 1 pitch (ice 5+) fixed just above C1 for next day. 

  Climb abandoned on 19 Oct due to strategy and itinerary mistakes, short weather window.


expid: NUPW17301
peakid: NUPW
year: 2017
route1: S Face-NW Smt
nation: France
leaders: Helias Millerioux
sponsor: Le Gang de Moustaches Nuptse Expedition 2017
ascent1: 8th
approach: Jeep to Phaplu->Cholatse->Chhukung
bcdate: 2017-10-05
smtdate: 2017-10-19
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2017-10-22
termnote: Summited NW Smt
othersmts: Climbed Cholatse (SW Ridge)
accidents: Millerioux hit by rock on shoulder.
agency: Holiday Himalaya Treks
campsites:
  BC(05/10,4700m),ABC(13/10,5400m),Biv1(14/10,6000m),Biv2(15/10,6580m),Biv3(16/10,6800m),Biv4(17/10,7000m),Biv5(18/10,7450m),NW-Smt(19/10)

routememo:
  BC   05/10  4700m (Chhukung)
  ABC  13/10  5400m (near a lake before moraine)
  Biv1 14/10  6000m
  Biv2 15/10  6580m
  Biv3 16/10  6800m
  Biv4 17/10  7000m
  Biv5 18/10  7450m
  Smt  19/10  by all 3 members at 3 pm.

  Day 1: Team started from ABC. The mountain was a lot drier than last year, when the team was already attempting the same route. Route to first bivouac was snowy and the last pitch mixed. Team set up their bivouac at 6000m after having climbed for about 8 hours. Before they settled in for the night, they fixed the first pitch of the 2nd day. They used about 60 metres of rope.

  Day 2: Team started at midnight as they were worried about rockfall. They climbed until 2 pm and set up their bivouac at 6580m.

  Day 3: Team started at 10 am as it was very windy in the morning. Rock and icefall not too bad. They climbed until 3:30 pm and set up their bivouac a little bit to the right of their route. There was a spur and it felt safer to bivouac there. They fixed the traverse to get to the camp – about 60 metres.

  Day 4: Team started at 8:30 am and climbed until 3.30 pm. On that day, there was one pitch that was about Grade VI. 

  Day 5: Team started at 9:30 am and climbed until 6 pm. 

  Summit Day:	Team started at 7:30 am. They climbed up the snow field to gain the ridge. They climbed the ridge roped up and always made sure that one kept to the right and other one to the left. Ridge was pretty sharp. 

  They spent about 30 minutes on the summit. Zero wind. On the way to Biv5, the down-climbed using a snow stake for security and abseiled about 100m. They arrived at about 6pm.

  On 20 Oct, they started from Biv5 at 7 am and descended to Biv2, where they arrived at 11 am. Millerioux was hit by a rock at about 7100m on the way to Biv5. He hurt his right shoulder, which slowed him down. The others took his bag and helped him down. They stopped at Biv2 until 6 pm. They wanted to wait for the sun to set in order to avoid rockfall. At 7 pm they continued and reached the bottom of the face at 1 am. The continued to ABC, where they arrived at 3 am.

  On 21 Oct, they descended to Chhukung.

  The route was one of the most difficult climbs the team had ever done. Sustained difficulties, every day was full of challenges and the steep and difficult route demanded constant concentration. 

  Team left BC (Chhukung) on 22 Oct by helicopter to Kathmandu.

  Fixed rope: 120m 

  Oxygen:	Not taken, not used.


expid: NUPW77101
peakid: NUPW
year: 1977
route1: NW Ridge-NW Smt from N
nation: Japan
leaders: Haruo Kato
sponsor: Japan Expedition to Mt. Nuptse by the Toho-Keiryu-Kai Team 1977
ascent1: 1st of NW Smt
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1977-03-17
smtdate: 1977-05-11
smttime: 1145
termnote: Success on NW Smt
achievment: Reached NW Summit
campsites:
  BC(17/03,5200m),C1(24/03,5700m),C2(05/04,6200m),C3(18/04,6600m),C4(28/04,6900m),C5(08/05,7350m),NW-Smt(11/05)

routememo:
  Kunii & Koto - 23 May 77

  All members in KTM. Tamada has frostbite 3 toes but will heal. From C5 7350m. Others Ok.

  1st summit attack Kato and Tamada 9 May but reached 7670m above C5 and C3 more fixed ropes of 150m to NW Peak (70m vertical), but no biv equipment and time limit; reached 5 pm and arrived back C5 7 pm.

  2nd attack started 10 May left C5 5:30 am, Kunii and Jambu Sherpa. Reached 7550m biv half snowhole they made with tools they brought and stayed in biv tent. Took 2 hours make hole - very cold and strong wind, no sleep.

  11 May started from biv 7:30 am. 2 hrs strong wind then after that wind died and sunshine. 11:45 am Kunii stood on NW Peak 7745m which end of their pioneer route up NW Ridge. Did not traverse to main summit: long route one peak in between and knife snow ridge. All members very tired and no support: for main peak 1 or 2 more camps required.

  Our main plan was to climb NW Ridge and this, coupled by very famous route, very difficult knife ice ridge (thought snow ridge). 1/2 hour on snow peak taking photos and cine photos; put Japanese-Nepalese club flag on top.

  3rd summit team Shimura and Honjo. 11 May left C4 6900m, but not reached C5 because exhaustion. Met 1st summit party midway between C4 and C5 and Kato saw 3rd party not in good condition and ordered back and climbing finished.

  BC on Khumbu Glacier very near Everest BC. Leave KTM after 1 week.


  Jha, MFA - 12 May 77

  Assistant leader Osamu Kunii and Jambu Sherpa left C5 10 May to make final assault NW Peak. Halted at 15:30 pm at 7550m and spent night there. 11 May at 07:30 hours started further and reached NW Peak, 7745m. Assistant leader on top first at 11:45 am and Jambu Sherpa top 12:00 hours - hoisted Nepal and Japanese flags on summit. Did not use oxygen while climbing. Sufficient space for 2 persons sit on summit. Left summit at 12:15 hours and reached C5 16:30 hours although gentle breeze blowing, weather fine.

  All members excellent health.

  1st conquest of NW Peak. Expedition abandoned attempt to reach main peak; according message leader they are returning to KTM in few days. 


  John, MFA - 10 May 77

  C5 7400m 8 May 18:00 hours leader and Tamada in C5 on 8 May. Leader Kato hopeful of making summit assault within 5 days. All members well and weather fine.


  Bhattarai, MFA - 21 March 77

  Nuptse expedition reached BC site 16 March and at 5 pm on 17 March established camp at 5200m on Khumbu Glacier. All members and Sherpas well.


  Kato - 12 Feb 77

  Do not climb through Khumbu Icefall; go past Gorak Shep to foot of Icefall with BC at 5300 feet nearer Nuptse then Everest BC. No avalanche problem this side Nuptse.

  Climb Nuptse via NW Ridge South new route

  6 members leave KTM 17 Feb walking including leader
  2 leave KTM 23 Feb fly with baggage
  Establish BC 15 March; 10 days acclimatization climbing around Thyangboche, Pheriche, etc.
  Summit at end April/early May

  Most difficult part between C3-C4 because very sharp ridge indeed here: all ridges really sharp.

  1 sirdar Tsange Sherpa 
  3 Sherpas


expid: NUPW84301
peakid: NUPW
year: 1984
route1: NW Ridge-NW Smt from S
nation: France
leaders: Raymond Renaud
sponsor: Expedition Cret Himalaya to Nuptse
ascent1: 2nd,3rd,4th
bcdate: 1984-09-21
smtdate: 1984-10-15
termnote: Success to NW Summit
campsites: BC(21/09,5200m),C1(24/09,5950m),C2(28/09,6500m),C3(02/10,6700m),C4(08/10,7200m),NW-Smt(15,19-21/10)
accidents: None
achievment: Reached NW Summit
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier halfway between point 5456m & west of Khumbu Glacier
  C1 near start of NW Ridge northwest point 6686m
  C2 on ridge before point 6686m
  C3 on ridge just before point 6686m
  C4 on ridge before NW Summit.

  Between C2 and C3 very narrow ridge and very difficult climb technically. Vertical crossing with deep powder snow covering cornices. Before C2 snow and 200m mixed rock and ice just below C2. C3->C4 very hard (difficult), very steep rocks and snow but good snow. Above C4 not so steep as before (and as picture shows) and only technical difficulty is very narrow last ridge and soft snow in places. Wind was problem from 10 Oct and had to go back to C4. 2 times tried for top in next couple of days and down to C2. Total 5 km of fixed rope along this long ridge because some inexperiencd Sherpas. No time to go to main summit: too far, too windy, not enough gear.

  15th Oct - cloudy, strong west wind
  19th Oct - clear, no wind
  20th Oct - no wind
  21st Oct - strong north wind across Lho La; lost 1 tent at C4

  Climbed to NW Summit only; no attempt made on main summit.


expid: NUPW88401
peakid: NUPW
year: 1988
route1: NW Ridge-NW Smt
nation: S Korea
leaders: Cho Hyung-Kyu
sponsor: 1988/89 Korean Winter Nuptse West Expedition
ascent1: 5th
bcdate: 1988-11-27
smtdate: 1988-12-22
smttime: 1405
termnote: Summited NW Smt
campsites: BC(27/11,5200m),C1(03/12,5800m),C2(07/12,6500m),C3(12/12,6800m),C4(16/12,7200m),NW-Smt(22/12)
achievment: 1st ascent of W Summit, 1st winter ascent of any summit of Nuptse; 1st ascent of Nuptse
routememo:
  BC at NSW of point 5456m, start of NW Ridge
  C1 on NW Ridge
  C2 before and below point 6686m
  C3 on ridge beyond point 6686m
  C4 at north side of ridge.

  From BC route went round to north side of point 5456m and up side of NW Ridge. No C1 because too much of wind. 4 times tried to go to W Summit but very strong cold winds defeated 3 bids. On 4th did reach W Summit. Very difficult last section to W Summit. Fixed 4800m rope total from little below C1 to 200m above C4 where ropes finished and used climbing ropes. Climbed from C4 at 7 am; summited 14:05, C4 19 hrs. 23rd Dec 2nd attack from C2 by 2 members but again strong wind and Sherpas not willing to try, so reached only 200m above C4 and gave up. Climb finished and all members went down.

  Frostbite Bae Hyun-Chul black fingers; same for Chun Bong-Gon and Kim Hwa-Gon deep frostbite and will loose finger tips. Phinzo Sherpa also same serious frostbite.


  Winter Ascent and Tragedy by Cho Hyung-Gyu

  The party planned to climb the mountain through west ridge. They set up C1 at 5800m on Dec 3rd. They advanced mixed snow and rock in dangerous section and then set up C2 at 6800m. The weather deteriorating and they were storm-bound for 4 days.

  The partly led on the difficult route and fixed a rope in the long and steep snow slopes to C3. Finally, they set up two box tents at C3 on spot of 7400m on 16th.

  It was changed to the worst weather on the summit day but 1st attack party started to the summit. However they backed without moving more advance because there appeared the crevasse on the upper plateau below the summit ridge. Severe winner winds and considerable snowfall defeated their 1st attack party.

  They revised all plans and entered the 2nd attack on 22nd. The member Oh Sei-Chul, Chun Bong-Gon, Kim Hwa-Gon and Bae Hyun-Chul departed C4 for the summit at 07:30. 4 members reached cornice below the summit. They climbed and at last got to the top at 14:05. Actually they succeed first winter ascent of Nuptse West. Even all members were unexperienced with the Himalayan mountains though they have achieved a real remarkable success.
   
  They had on epic descent. The team described the struggle as "Physically and mentally very demanding."

  On Dec 23 the 2nd attack party had left C4 for the summit but they evacuated because the strong wind and poor visibility.

  4 summiters and 2nd attack party come back BC on Dec 24.
   
  3 members of summiters had to cut all hand and foot due to severe frostbite.

accidents:
  Hyun black fingers; Bong and Hwa deep frostbite and will loose finger tips; 1 Sherpa also serious frostbite


expid: NUPW89301
peakid: NUPW
year: 1989
route1: NW Ridge-NW Smt
nation: W Germany
leaders: Ralf Dujmovits
sponsor: Baden-Badener Nuptse Expedition 1989
ascent1: 6th
bcdate: 1989-10-01
smtdate: 1989-11-02
smttime: 1315
termnote: Summited NW Summit
campsites: BC(01/10,5200m),C1(08/10,5900m),C2(14/10,6587m),C3(01/11,7100m),NW-Smt(02/11)
accidents: Nothing serious
achievment: Reached NW Summit
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier east of Kalapattar
  C3 at small cave
  High point at NW Summit.

  Route just below C2 very steep and difficult snow like sugar (used ice axe as shovel) and many cornices. In the end Dujmovits climbed alone. Others ill, unmotivated or psychologically unprepared for Himalayan conditions. Team had fixed ropes to 6800m. On 1 Nov Dujmovits alone up from C2 and reached C3, fixed 100m above C3 and slept in C3. On 2 Nov he went to NW Summit in 4-1/2 hours. As he was alone too dangerous to go beyond NW Summit. Very disappointed not to go beyond because is possible to reach Main Summit in 2 days. Very strong winds constantly. Total 1700m rope fixed by this expedition.


expid: NUPW96201
peakid: NUPW
year: 1996
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Indonesia
leaders: Endang Suhendra
sponsor: Indonesia Nuptse Himal 1996
approach: Via Pheriche->Lobuje->Gorakshep
bcdate: 1996-07-24
smtdate: 1996-07-29
termdate: 1996-07-31
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to bad weather and avalanching
campsites: BC(24/07,5500m),C1(27/07,6700m),C2(29/07,7200),xxx(29/07,7200m)
accidents: Suharjo fell 10-20m but not serious; Suhendra slight altitude sickness
achievment: 1st Indonesian attempt
agency: Himalayan Waves
routememo:
  BC on rock slightly above and east of Pt 5334m (ENE of Gorak Shep)
  C1 on little summit northwest of Pt 7154m
  C2 small rock plateau south of Pt 7154m.

  30 July snow falling and avalanching so that afternoon all three members and 1 Sherpa left C2 for BC. 31 July to Lobuche and climb finished because of bad weather. Climb "very difficult" because first time on high mountain. Chuldin Sherpa opened the route for team. Did not even approach south side of mountain because too steep.


expid: NUPW97301
peakid: NUPW
year: 1997
route1: W Face-NW Smt
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Tomaz Humar
sponsor: Slovenian Expedition to Pumori and Nuptse 1997
ascent1: 7th
countries: Mexico
bcdate: 1997-10-26
smtdate: 1997-10-31
termdate: 1997-11-03
termnote: Summited NW Summit (then abandoned due to fatal accident)
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East (LOBE-973-01) and Pumori (PUMO-973-07)
campsites: ABC(26/10,5200m),Biv1(27/10,5900m),Biv2(28/10,6300m),Biv3(29/10,6700m),NW-Smt(31/10)
accidents: Kovac slightly sick; Humar frostbitten toes may lose ends, slight head wounds; Jeglic disappeared
achievment: 1st ascent of W Face in 1st attempt
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  ABC at glacier south of point 5344m on National Geographic map
  Biv at 5900m on West Face
  Biv at 6300m on West Face
  Biv at 6700m on West Face
  High point at Nuptse West II Peak (top of West Face).

  19-25 Oct very bad weather: very strong wind, snowing and avalanching then calm weather. 3 members and sirdar to Nuptse with sirdar to help carry to glacier; Kovac had health problem and return to BC on 27th. Same day Humar and Jeglic started up West Face at 7:00 am and seracs took 4 hours to work way through to bottom face and reached 1st biv at 3:00 pm at 5900m, below which was very hard ice. Had taken food and fuel for 10 days (but fuel did not last). 28th at 11:00 am started again in wind and snow avalanche over them and fog - gained 400 vertical meters and biv in overhanging crevasse but wind battered the tent and again almost no sleep. 29th 8:00 am started up on mixed rock and ice and through small couloir; at 3:30 pm at 6700m and biv there with blocks of thin ice and rocks. All time soloed with no belays just fixed ropes. Again bad weather at night with wind - torn tent and new snow falling. 30th spent day cooking and fixing tent; started climbing 31st at 4:00 am with idea would pust till 2:00 pm and then turn back; very light loads now, some drinks and chocolates; at 7100m at 8:00 - 30 degree C and wind; at 7500m 2 members last met at 11:30 am and very cold and stopped briefly here; Jeglic went up first and new storm of terrible winds and he reached 7742m and had traversed slightly onto south side; very bad sugar snow and when Humar at 2:15 pm reached place where Jeglic had stayed at small place at 7732m from where he would have fallen 2500m in sheer drop on South Face. This place was end of climb because both had reached summit called Nuptse West II (7732m) and by mistake Jeglic had gone on beyond and Humar wanted to call him back. Did not go to main summit (stopped perhaps 300m point to point from main summit). 3:00 pm Humar started descent and reached 7100m when started to be dark and battery almost dead but had to keep moving, went wrong, lost his way but about midnight found tent; at 2:00 am on 1st candle caused fuel to explode; Humar not hurt. 1st 12:15 pm started descent and some ice seracs hit his head (had discarded helmet because of weight) but not seriously injured; down to 5400m hoping Kovak to join him and came at 1:00 am and helped to reach glacier; waited because did not want to risk descent in dark. Porters carried him down with 4 frozen toes (may lose ends). "Very happy" with team and "of course" with this climb which was much more difficult than Bobaye and higher than Bobaye. The 7732m peak reached was same as that reached by Germans in aut 1989 via NW Ridge, which forms left-hand border of Slovenes West Face.

  9 Nov 97 - Humar had "dreamt" of summiting main peak of Nuptse and making traverse down either Bonington South Face route on Scott North Face route. Had expected Nuptse to be climbed by 2 pairs of members, Carsolio with Humar and Kovac with Jeglic, but Carsolio thought West Face too dangerous in such weather conditions and Kovac dropped out on last night before push up face because he had pain in a lung, so only 2 men remained for climb. They did no belays because that would have slowed them down too much; on 2000m face you have to quite fast, with avalanching taking place. Jeglic reached peak West II first (Humar found his footprints) and slightly beyond and 2m below it, then apparent by wind belew him off balance and down 2500m of hard ice and overhanging rock. Jeglic was Europe's best ice climber in terms of both speed and technical ability; did 4 new route in Patagonia. Humar was able to descend W Face alone and without fixed ropes in place because he had 2 ice axes and had great concentration and understanding of what had to be done. "If you are pushed and you want to survive, everything is possible." Humar had an "obsession" about Nuptse's West Face, which he describes as "gorgeous." Only walls/faces really interest him except great traverses like Nuptse West II to main summit or like Lhotse-Lhotse Intermediate-Lhotse Shar; he can't explain why walls appeal to him as "something really special" but they clearly do as he looks at photos of Nuptse West Face - and speaks of his idea for scaling Makalu's West Face and for a fast ascent in the month of March up middle of Dhaulagiri I's "gorgeous" South Face.


  BC-Nepal-Mountaineering
  Slovenian Climber Dies after Historic Ascent
  By Elizabeth Hawley

     Kathmandu, November 3 (Reuters) - A Slovenian mountaineer died on Oct 31 in a fall while descending fom the first ascent of an extremely difficult feature of an Nepalese Himalayan peak, Nepal's tourism ministry announced today.
     The climber, Janez Jeglic, 36-year-old mountain guide from Domzale, Slovenia, gained the 7855-meter summit of Mt. Nuptse, a close neighbour of Mount Everest, at 2:15 pm. on Oct 31, the ministry reported, and was followed to the top fifteen minutes later by the leader of this small team, Tomaz Humar, 28, an electrician from Kamnik.
     They had succeeded in reaching Nuptse's summit by a feature that no other mountaineers had ever attempted, its formidable west face. Others who have studied this face have declared it impossible to ascend.
     During his descent, Jeglic disappeared and is believed by Humar to have been blown off balance by fierce winds and fallen down the south face, another extremely difficult side of Nuptse.
     Humar himself managed to return safely to base camp at about 5100m on Nov 2.
     Slovenian mountaineers are well known for succeeding on daring and demanding climbing routes, and a number of their best alpinists have died while doing so.
     Jeglic was married and had two daughters.


expid: PAND17301
peakid: PAND
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Pierre Labbre
sponsor: French Pandra Expedition 2017
ascent1: 2nd
approach: Taplejung->Ghunsa->Lhonak->BC
bcdate: 2017-10-05
smtdate: 2017-10-18
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2017-10-22
campsites: BC(06/10,5100m),ABC(07/10,5500m),Biv1(16/10,6000m),Biv2(17/10,6400m),Smt(18/10)
achievment: 1st ascent of NE Face
agency: Mountain Tribes Trekking
routememo:
  BC   06 Oct  5100m (far from route beginning)
  ABC  07 Oct  5500m
  Biv1 16 Oct  6000m
  Biv2 17 Oct  6400m
  Smt  18 Oct  by all 3 members.

  Started from KTM on 25th of September.
  Started trekking on 27th of September.
  BC  on 6th of October.
  ABC on 7th of October.
  Acclimatization camp at 6100m on 8th of October.
  6200m on 9th of October.

  16 October: woke up at 6 am, attack at 10 am, first pitch mixed climb, after easy, after hard ice climbing and easy until Biv1 at 6000m.

  17 October: first pitch very hard ice climbing, then steep ice climbing, then M6 pitch and steep snow until Biv2 at 6400m.

  18 October: ice climbing, then hard mixed climbing, then ice climbing and snow slope until summit at 2 pm, abseiling down to the footstep of the face, reached at 9 pm. 

  Good conditions in the NE Face, with no wind. Not so cold, not so much objective risks, no fear.
   
  New route called "Peine plancher:". ED, WI6, M6, 1200m.

  Team left BC on 22 October and back to Ktm on 27 October.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

  Other peaks: 6200m peak for acclimatization, unnamed, above ABC, east of ABC.


expid: PANN17301
peakid: PANN
year: 2017
route1: NE Face (via 6150m col)
nation: France
leaders: Max Bonniot
sponsor: Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne Lunag Ri Expedition 2017
ascent1: 2nd
approach: Lukla->Namche->Thami->Arya->BC
bcdate: 2017-10-09
smtdate: 2017-10-19
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2017-10-28
campsites: BC(09/10,5100m),Biv(18/10,6150m),Smt(19/10)
agency: Mountain Tribes Trekking
routememo:
  BC  09/10  5100m
  Biv 18/10  at col at 6150m
  Smt 19/10  of PANN by Max Bonniot and Pierre Sancier at 9 am.

  The 2 members of French GMHM first intended the West Face of Lunag Ri, notably attempted in the past 2 years by Conrad Anker and David Lama. Since the conditions there were quite bad, the pair decided to try for the 2009 Schaffter route on Pangbuk NE Face instead, knowing nothing about the controversy raised by the 2013 ascenders (USA, Wright, Adamson) in AAJ ("Purgation"). From the 6150m col where they bivied, they were stucked to discover no equipment remnants at all, when the face's hard sections below had been equipped and the main difficulties occurred in fact straight after the col, on the SE Ridge beginning.  

  The pictures taken by the French on their official summit compared with the 2009 team clearly prove now that the 2009 team indeed stopped at the 6150m col, as anticipated by the Americans.

  Route called "Tolerance zero" (1100m/ED/WI5/80°)

  Fixed rope: 1 pitch fixed straight above the col 6150m.

  Team left BC on 28 Oct.

  Route: 2009 Schaffter attempt to Col 6150m

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


expid: PHNH17301
peakid: PHNH
year: 2017
route1: SE Face (up), W Ridge (down)
nation: Russia
leaders: Yuri Koshelenko
sponsor: Seven Summits Club Phungi Expedition 2017
ascent1: 1st
approach: Besisahar->Dharapani->BC
bcdate: 2017-10-15
smtdate: 2017-10-28
smttime: 1630
termdate: 2017-11-01
agency: 7 Summits Adventure
campsites:
  BC(15/10,3600m),ABC(18/10,5000m),C1(26/10,5700m),C2(27/10,6300m),Smt(28/10),C3(28/10,6500m),C4(29/10,6100m)

routememo:
  BC  15/10  3600m  near Dana Khola and some houses for yak men 
  ABC 18/10  5000m  located on glacier moraine
  C1  26/10  5700m  at safe location from rockfall on the snow 
  C2  27/10  6300m  a bit to the right of route 
  Smt 28/10  by Lonchinskiy, Koshelenko at 4:30 pm.
  C3  28/10  6500m  (after summit) on summit ridge 
  C4  29/10  6100m  (in descent) in icefall under a big boulder

  Ascent in alpine style, no Sherpa support. Traversed Phungi Himal, ascent on SE Face, descent via West Ridge.

  Long day of climbing from C1 to C2 (20 pitches, difficult ice, 60-80 degrees). Weather turned on 27 Oct, quite foggy, a lot of snow, cold. Thunderbolts and electricity in the air. On summit day they started from C2 at 8 am. Some pieces of ice fell on Lonchinskiy between C2 and summit, damaging his helmet. Big cornices on summit ridge. They prepared their bivouac on summit ridge before going to highest point. Reached summit at 4:30 pm. Stayed on top for 15 minutes, weather was bad, foggy and windy. Then went to bivouac nearby. Next day traversed summit and descended on West Ridge. 29 Oct they slept in bivouac in icefall under a big boulder, safe location, at approximately 6100m. Reached bivouac place at 2 pm. Bad weather forced them to stop climbing. On 30 Oct went down to ABC, same as on ascent. On 31 Oct to BC.  

  Team left BC on 1 Nov.

  Climbing route: ascent via SE Face, descent via West Ridge.

  Oxygen: Not taken not used.


expid: PUMO17401
peakid: PUMO
year: 2017
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Alex Chicon (Alex Txikon)
sponsor: Alex Txikon Everest Winter 2017/2018
countries: Pakistan
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-01-02
smtdate: 2018-01-20
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2018-03-01
campsites: BC(02/01,5350m),C2(18/01,6150m),C3(19/01,6480m),Smt(20/01)
accidents: 7
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  C2  18/01  6150m 
  C3  19/01  6480m (shoulder)
  Smt 20/01  by all members and Sherpas at around noon.

  Route: a bit to the right of the NE Ridge.

  Fixed rope: 600m to C2 (rest was climbed in alpine style).

  On 18 Jan Sadpara, Txikon, Temba Bhote, Pasang, Walung, Nuri and Chhepal moved from Everest BC to Pumori C2. The route to from Pumori BC and C2 had been fixed by Nuri, Ali Sapara and Temba Bhote previously. It took them 5 hours to get from Ever BC to Pumori C2.

  From C2 to C3 they climbed in alpine style, meaning they moved on a rope together and fixed it in places. On 20 Jan, they left C3 at 5 am. Txikon was surprised by the technical difficulties this route posed. It was between 40 and 45 degrees, some parts even 65 degrees. There were many crevasses, most of which he thinks would be open and unsurpassable in spring or autumn. They were able to get across all crevasses without the use of ladders. One crevasse just below C3 was just manageable and required a lot of commitment to cross it. 

  There is also a crevasse on the summit. They spent about 30 minutes on the summit and descended all the way back to Everest BC, where they arrived at 5 pm.


expid: PUTH17301
peakid: PUTH
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: USA
leaders: Mike Hamill
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Putha Hiunchuli Expedition 2017
countries: India
approach: Juphal->Dunai->Kakkot->BC
bcdate: 2017-09-27
smtdate: 2017-10-09
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2017-10-11
campsites: BC(27/09,4875m),C1(03/10,5490m),C2(08/10,6280m),Smt(09/10)
agency: Beyul Adventure
routememo:
  Summit team departed C2 at 3:30 am, summited at 9:30 am, stayed 30 minutes, then descended to base camp. Perfect weather and route conditions.


expid: PUTH17302
peakid: PUTH
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Andreas Als
sponsor: Furtenbach Adventures Putha Hiunchuli 2017
approach: Juphal->Dunai->Kakkot->BC
bcdate: 2017-09-29
smtdate: 2017-10-10
termdate: 2017-10-12
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to client exhaustion
campsites: BC(29/09,4950m),C1(03/10,5400m),C2(06/10,6000m),C3(09/10,6200m),xxx(10/10,7000m)
agency: Iceland Trekking (Hi On Life Adventures pmt)
routememo:
  BC  29/09  4950m
  C1  03/10  5400m
  C2  06/10  6000m
  C3  09/10  6200m
  HPt 10/10  ~7000m by Kofler, Als, Kunga Sherpa and Thiren Yakha at 10 am.

  Party left C3 on summit push at 2:30 am. Weather was cold and windy. They spent too much energy walking through deep snow. Als and Kofler had problems with their fitness, they didn't have enough energy to go all the way to the summit. They skied down almost all the way down to BC. They reached BC at approximately 4 pm.

  Team left BC on 12 Oct.

  Fixed rope:	about 50m just before C2.

  Oxygen: taken and used by Horst Kofler at C2 (6000m) for better rest during the night on 6 Oct.

  Sherpas:
    Kunga Sherpa
    Thiren Yakha


expid: PUTH17303
peakid: PUTH
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: USA
leaders: Sarah Strattan
sponsor: Furtenbach Adventures Putha Hiunchuli 2017
approach: Juphal->Dunai->Kakkot->BC
bcdate: 2017-10-01
smtdate: 2017-10-11
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2017-10-13
campsites: BC(01/10,4790m),C1(06/10,5450m),C2(09/10,6100m),Smt(11/10)
agency: Iceland Trekking (Hi On Life Adventures pmt)
routememo:
  BC  01/10  4790m	
  C1  06/10  5450m
  C2  09/10  6100m
  Smt 11/10  by Strattan and Mattison at 1 pm.

  The lower and upper parts of the mountain were good for skiing; middle part was not so good. They had to traverse a lot during ascent, which cost them a lot of energy.

  On summit push they left C2 at 2 am and reached the summit at 1 pm. Clear view, just windy and cold on the top.

  They skied down from the summit to C2, reaching C2 at 2:45 pm. Next day (12 Oct) down to BC. Team left BC on 13 Oct.

  Oxygen: Taken to BC for emergency purpose, not used.


expid: PUTH17304
peakid: PUTH
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Dieter Porsche
sponsor: German Putha Hiunchuli Expedition 2017
approach: Juphal->Dunai->Kakkot->BC
bcdate: 2017-09-30
smtdate: 2017-10-10
termdate: 2017-10-13
termnote: Abandoned at 6850m due to vision problem of Porsche
campsites: BC(30/09,4900m),C1(04/10,5400m),C2(05/10,6050m),C3(09/10,6300m),xxx(10/10,6850m)
agency: Sherpa Shepherds
routememo:
  BC  30/09  4900m
  C1  04/10  5400m
  C2  05/10  6050m
  C3  09/10  6300m
  HPt 10/10  6850m by Porsche, Hennecke and Phurba Sonam Sherpa at 6850m 4:45 am. 		
  Team started from C3 to the summit at 2 am. It was windy, around 60 km/h. The day before the IMG group summitted, but their traces could not be found because of snowdrift. Team had trouble finding the route to the summit, only some flags left by previous teams provided some orientation.

  Siegfried Reutter turned around at 6480m at 3:30 am because he wasn't feeling well that day. He descended to C3 where he tried to rest for a couple of hours hoping that the wind would abate.

  Porsche, Hennecke and Phurba Sonam turned around at 6850m because Porsche had developed a problem with his eyes during the ascent and eventually wasn't able to see anymore. Hennecke and Phurba Sonam helped him down to C3 where they arrived at 5:45 am.

  Entire team reunited at C3 and descended together to BC. They reached BC at approx. 3:30 pm. Team left BC on 13 Oct.
  		
  Fixed rope: about 200m meters between C1 and C2.

  Oxygen: not taken not used.

  Sherpas;
    Phurba Sonam Sherpa
    Expedition cook Buddha Ghale carried loads to C2 once.

accidents:
  Porsche had eye problems and got blind during ascent (no snow blindness). Eyes pretty much recovered now, but he will have his eyes checked when back in Germany.


expid: PUTH17305
peakid: PUTH
year: 2017
route1: NW Ridge (up), NE Face (down)
nation: France
leaders: Frederic Faure
sponsor: Atalante Putha Hiunchuli Expedition 2017
approach: Juphal->Phoksumdo->Tarap Valley->Kakkot->BC
bcdate: 2017-10-25
smtdate: 2017-11-02
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2017-11-06
campsites: BC(25/10,4900m),C1(27/10,5500m),C2(01/11,6100m),Smt(02/11)
accidents: Daniel Calegari had problems with his eyes; Grezat frostbite at toes (both evacuated by helicopter)
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  BC  25/10  4900m
  C1  27/10  5500m
  C2  01/11  6100m
  Smt 02/11  by Frederic Faure, Grezat, Beroujon, Feuillie, Riten Jangbu Sherpa,
             Mingma Sherpa, Lhakpa Sherpa at 1 pm.

  They wanted to ski down from summit initially, but snow conditions were only good from 6000-6400m. Generally no good conditions for ski descent, maybe better in spring season.

  Started from C2 at 2 am, got to top at 1 pm, stayed on top for 15 minutes. Very good weather, no wind, they were lucky with the weather. It was very cold on summit, maybe -27° Celsius. After summit down to C2 (arrival at 4 pm). On 3 Nov down to BC.

  Grezat got frostbite on summit day at two toes of both feet. He was evacuated by helicopter on 4 Nov from BC to KTM. He was in hospital for 5 days, no bad consequences expected. They used Gamow bag for Grezat three times before helicopter arrived.

  Monique Faure turned around (highpoint: 6000m) because of the cold conditions on the mountain and fatigue. It was very cold every day, average temperature at BC maybe -15° Celsius.

  Daniel Calegari had problems with his eye; he was evacuated by helicopter on 29 Oct from C1 to KTM with his wife Anne. She was okay, but joined him on evacuation.
   
  Ascent via NW Ridge (maybe 45 degrees), a bit more difficult than normal route, but still straightforward. Descent via normal route. BC was the same as the one for normal route.

  Team left BC on 6 Nov trekking to Juphal.

  Climbing route: NW Ridge on ascent, NE Face (normal) route on descent.

  Oxygen: taken for emergency, not used. 

  Fixed rope: 50m (steep part just before C1)
  Records: FA via NW Ridge (?)

  Members :
    Frederic Faure (S)
    Monique Faure (6000m)
    Yves Beroujon (S) 
    Gilbert Grezat (S)
    Daniel Calegari (5500m)
    Anne Calegari (5500m)
    Claude Feuillie (S)

  Hired : 
    Riten Jangbu Sherpa, 18/05/83, born in Solukhumbu, but citizen ID: Sindhupalchok
    Mingmar Sherpa,  24/11/1989, Taksindu-4, Solukhumbu
    Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa, 23/08/1989, Taksindu-5, Solukhumbu


expid: PUTH17306
peakid: PUTH
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Ivo Feierabend
sponsor: Nawa Asha Griha (HAG) Putha Hiunchuli Expedition 2017
countries: Ireland, Sweden
approach: Nepalgunj to Dunai by bus, Juphal->Dunai->Kakkot->BC
bcdate: 2017-10-08
smtdate: 2017-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to high winds
campsites: BC(08,16/10,4950m),C1(09/10,19/10,5440m),C2(20/10,6100m),xxx
agency: Asian Adventure Trips
routememo:
  Feierabend and Lhakpa went ahead of team by bus from Nepalgunj to Dunai and established BC and C1 on 8-9 Oct. 

  Rest of team arrived at BC on 16 Oct (by flight to Juphal).
  Team arrived at C1 on 19 Oct.
  Feierabend, Aeschbach and Johansson carry loads to C2 on 20 Oct, return to BC.
  Team starts summit push going to C1 on 22 Oct.
  Team aborts summit bid due to high winds on 24 Oct.


expid: PUTH17307
peakid: PUTH
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: India
leaders: Saran Subba
sponsor: Hi on Life Putha Hiunchuli Expedition 2017
countries: Norway, Sweden
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,xxx[?]
agency: Hi On Life Adventures
routememo:
  From Facebook (Hi on Life):

  Saran just contacted me from his satellite phone.

  He said that they are all feeling well and strong! Magne and Rinji are already in Camp 2 and will climb to Camp 3 tomorrow and go for the summit on the 28th. Saran, Asel, Kristofer and Ang Dorje will climb to Camp 2 tomorrow, Camp 3 the next day to acclimatize, and back to Camp 2, then to Camp 3 on the 29th and go for the summit on the 30th. Weather looks good and they are all excited for the summit push!


expid: ROLM17301
peakid: ROLM
year: 2017
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Narendra Shahi
sponsor: Explore Tobsar Peak Autumn 2017
ascent1: 1st
approach: Tsum Valley->Mu Gompa->BC
bcdate: 2017-09-29
smtdate: 2017-10-01
termdate: 2017-10-02
othersmts: Summited Tobsar (TOBS-173-01)
campsites: BC(29/09,4700m),Biv(30/09,5600m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Churen Himal Treks
primid: TOBS17301
routememo:
  BC  29/09  4700m
  Biv 30/09  5600m
  Smt 01/10  by 3 Nepalese

  Nepali expedition to Tobsar, summiters/members:
    Narendra Shahi 
    Iman Gurung
    Samir Gurung 

  Climbed the 6056m subpeak (Rolmi) lying southwest of main summit (6065m) on route to main summit (6065m).


expid: TARS81301
peakid: TARS
year: 1981
route1: N Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Gabriele Marzorati
sponsor: Italian Expedition to Glacier Dome
ascent1: 1st
approach: Dumre->Manang
bcdate: 1981-10-02
smtdate: 1981-10-10
smttime: 1100
termdate: 1981-10-13
campsites: BC(02/10,3830m),C1(04/10,4570m),C2(06/10,5000m),C3(07/10,5460m),C4(09/10,6000m),Smt(10/10)
routememo:
  Note: This team thought they were climbing Glacier Dome, but were actually climbing the 7069m peak east of Glacier Dome (now called Tarke Kang II).


  Reached summit 10th Oct 11:00 am by 2 ropes (3 members and Gombu Sherpa).

  6 Italians and 3 Nepalese climbers to Dumre 22 Sept. Braga 30th Sept after 4 days rain. Had to send recce to find route to BC because photos were of wrong peak.

  BC 3830m 2 Oct
  C1 4570m 4 Oct
  C2 5000m 6 Oct

  Near deposit camp of Japanese Gangapurna 7th Oct over 5520m summit and to C3 5460m correct route discovered. 1600m ice wall from C3 to top. Summiters on Oct 9th put C4 at 6000-6200m in crevasse. 10th Oct 4 on summit and to C4. 11th Oct all to BC except Roncaglioni and Schranz and found them sleeping at Japanese Gangapurna deposit camp at 5000m because Sherpas had packed up C3. Difficulty was to find right route. Wall not difficult but very, very long which meant very slow descent. Last night all returned. No accidents or avalanche. Oxygen not used.

  Route = N Wall; no North Ridge exists; a ridge to East goes to Gangapurna and another to West Roc Noir.


  Glacier Dome (Italy) - 12 Oct 81

  Summit - NE Ridge route 7193m.
  10th Oct at 11:00 am on top by 3 Italians and 1 Sherpa 


  Marzorati - 16 Sept 81

  Altitude maybe 7193m but Annapurna II route East Ridge from N - new route.

  Approach from from Manang village. BC of center of Gangapurna N Ridge. Then climb up to c5900m and over ridge and down its west side on glacier and on to Glacier Dome's East Ridge. 

  BC about 4900m.
  C1 5700 on glacier of Gangapurna. 
  North Ridge and N of Glacier Dome. E Ridge.
  C2 c6500m either on or little earlier E Ridge.

  Don't think a 3rd camp necessary. 
  Other 5 arrived 21 Sept. Leave KTM 22 or 23 by road to Dumre. 
  9 days to Manang from KTM and 3 days Manang BC.
  3 Sherpas above BC. 
  Gombu = Sirdar
  Pemba Gyalzen
  Pasang Temba

  6 oxygen only for sleeping perhaps but not climbing.
  Expedition has no name.


expid: TARS82301
peakid: TARS
year: 1982
route1: N Face
nation: France
leaders: Michel Richard
sponsor: French Glacier Dome Expedition
approach: Dumre->Marshyangdi Valley
bcdate: 1982-10-22
smtdate: 1982-11-04
termdate: 1982-11-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6950m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(22/10,4500m),C1(25/10,4900m),C2(27/10,5400m),C3(29/10,6000m),C4(01/11,6300m),xxx(04/11,6950m)
accidents: Little frostnip on toes; no accidents
routememo:
  Note: This team thought they were climbing Glacier Dome, but were actually climbing the 7069m peak east of Glacier Dome (now called Tarke Kang II).


  Richard - 12 Nov 82

  Much snow very deep, much wind, no avalanches, trail covered daily by new snow. 
  Little frostnip on toes; no accidents.
  All 5 returned 1:00 am today 
  2 Sherpas above BC carrying loads
  Oxygen at BC for medical only


  Sharma, Tourism - 9 Nov 82

  After reaching 6950m because heavy snowfall and snow avalanches abandoned 3 Nov and left BC 5 Nov.


  Richard - 10 Oct 82

  Route = North Face, same as Italian 1981 autumn
  4 members all arrived 10 Oct; leave KTM 13 Oct by road to Dumre; walk up Marshyangdi and take 8-9 days to BC.

  BC between Tilicho Lake and mountain (northwest of mountain) at 4500m.
  Probably 3 camps above BC with C3 about 6500m or more.
  No Sherpas above BC.
  2 weeks for climbing if weather is favorable. 
  French Glacier Dome Expedition
  Not at Hotel Shakti on return.


expid: TARS83301
peakid: TARS
year: 1983
route1: N Face
nation: France
leaders: Bernard Muller
sponsor: French Expedition to Glacier Dome
bcdate: 1983-09-28
smtdate: 1983-10-08
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to lack of time and bad weather
campsites: BC(28/09,4000m),C1(29/09,5000m),C2(01/10,5400m),C3(07/10,6200m),xxx(08/10,6400m)
routememo:
  Note: This team thought they were climbing Glacier Dome, but were actually climbing the 7069m peak east of Glacier Dome (now called Tarke Kang II).


  BC a little below glacier north of face.

  Had only 16 days BC to summit and back to BC because of members holidays. Thus only 4 days available from last camp to top and 3 of these days had snowfall depositing 2m snow on this camp. Muller could have gone to top on 8th but expedition was to put others on top.

  Not a difficult climb no problems with route. Only weather and time. Big avalanche near summit: 1 small avalanche near C3 which destroyed 2 tents but had snow cave.


expid: TARS84301
peakid: TARS
year: 1984
route1: N Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Um Gae-Sung
sponsor: 1984 Korean Glacier Dome Expedition
ascent1: 2nd
bcdate: 1984-10-20
smtdate: 1984-10-27
campsites: BC(20/10,4500m),C1(22/10,4850m),C2(23/10,5100m),C3(25/10,5260m),Smt(27/10)
accidents: Below summit Um fell 50m and broke 1 rib, other 2 members were far below
achievment: 1st Korean ascent
routememo:
  Note: This team thought they were climbing Glacier Dome, but were actually climbing the 7069m peak east of Glacier Dome (now called Tarke Kang II).


  BC at glacier northeast of mountain
  C1 on North Face
  C2 on North Face
  C3 on North Face.

  Difficult crevassed icefall between C2 and C3. 1200m fixed rope mainly above C3. Below summit small crevasse and deep soft snow.


expid: TARS90301
peakid: TARS
year: 1990
route1: N Face from NE
nation: S Korea
leaders: Chung Min-Kyu
sponsor: 1990 Korean Himalaya Glacier Dome Expedition
ascent1: 3rd
approach: Dumre->BC
bcdate: 1990-09-01
smtdate: 1990-09-10
smttime: 1240
termdate: 1990-09-12
campsites: LowBC(01/09,4300m),BC(02/09,4600m),C1(04/09,5200m),C2(06/09,6200m),C3(07/09,6400m),Smt(10/09)
accidents: Yoon altitude sickness at 6800m
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  Note: This team thought they were climbing Glacier Dome, but were actually climbing the 7069m peak east of Glacier Dome (now called Tarke Kang II).


  Lower BC 2 hours from water source so moved from C1 to C2 very long (4 hrs) and difficult; many crevasses and dangerous (route on fall and avalanches). C3 to top very long but not so difficult. 

  Two summit bids: 8th Sept by Baek, Yoon and Sherpas Sarki and Ang Dawa; Yoon altitude sickness, got very tired; turned back at 6800m. 

  10th Sept 2nd bid from C3 by Baek and same Sherpas; started 3:40 am and reached 12:40 pm and down to C3 4:40 pm and C2 6:00 pm. Climbed quickly because had to return to work. 

  Lee left KTM yesterday having gone quickly ahead on return march and to studies. Very lucky with weather: heavy snowfall on 11th Sept. Left BC 12th Sept arrived KTM 18th Sept.


expid: TARS94301
peakid: TARS
year: 1994
route1: N Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Adi Welsch
sponsor: Bavarian Trekking Kang Expedition
ascent1: 4th
countries: Austria
approach: Marshyangdi Valley->Manang village->Gangapurna BC
bcdate: 1994-10-15
smtdate: 1994-10-22
smttime: 1430
campsites: BC(15/10,4800m),Dep(17/10,5200m),C1(19/10,5600m),C2(21/10,6200m),Smt(22/10)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Pleasure
routememo:
  Note: This team thought they were climbing Glacier Dome, but were actually climbing the 7069m peak east of Glacier Dome (now called Tarke Kang II).


  BC at glacier between North Ridge of Glacier Dome and Gangapurna
  C1 on east side of North Ridge
  C2 at North Face.

  On 22 Oct summit bid by 4 members, but at 7000m 2 had altitude problem and turned back (the 2 Austrians Kern and Hron) while others continued to top at 14:30 hours (had left C2 at 8:00 am and returned  to C2 at 11:00 hours). Austrians descended to C1. 

  25 Oct Markovsky and Ang Phurba from BC to C2, 26th tried for top but tired and also turned back at 7000m. 

  Not difficult technically and snow conditions were good.


expid: TARS98301
peakid: TARS
year: 1998
route1: NE Face
route2: N Face
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Robin Baum
sponsor: Glacier Dome Expedition
ascent1: 5th
ascent2: 6th
approach: Jomsom->Mesokanto Pass->Tilicho Lake
bcdate: 1998-09-23
smtdate: 1998-10-08
smttime: 1200
termdate: 1998-10-16
campsites: BC(23/09,5000m),ABC(27/09,5500m),Smt(08-09/10)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Everest Adventure
routememo:
  Note: This team thought they were climbing Glacier Dome, but were actually climbing the 7069m peak east of Glacier Dome (now called Tarke Kang II).


  BC  at south end of Tilicho Lake
  ABC at glacier at foot of steep North Face.

  Climbed in alpine-style from ABC following 2 lines. Peterek and Prielozny made 1st attempt: started from ABC 4 Oct and 2 biv on NE Face at 6500m and 7000m. Big problem of 1 meter-deep powdered snow at 7000m, so down on 6 Oct to 5500m that day, BC 7 Oct. Their route was direct line from 5500m towards summit. 

  5 Oct Baum and Smrz from BC to ABC and slept there. 6 Oct to 1st biv at 6200m on line to east of 1st line on NE Face. 7th Oct 2nd biv at 6700m on same NE Face. 8th Oct reached summit at 12:00 noon from face and then down 3 hours on skis to ABC. 

  8 Oct Prielozny from BC to ABC; at 5:00 pm up from ABC, climbed throughout night on North Face by new way on ice and hard snow. 9 Oct 8:00 am on summit and down across NE Face in Baum's footsteps to ABC meeting Baum and Smrz waiting for him there and all 3 to BC 10 Oct. 

  NE Face not difficult to climb but ice dangerous for skis.


expid: TAWO17301
peakid: TAWO
year: 2017
route1: SW Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Shinji Tamura
sponsor: Active Mountain Tawoche Expedition 2017
bcdate: 2017-11-12
smtdate: 2017-11-23
smttime: 1159
termdate: 2017-11-25
campsites: BC(12/11,5100m),C1(17/11,5950m),Smt(23/11)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  Summit team left high camp at 6:15 am on 23 Nov, summited at 11:59 am and stayed 30 minutes. Tamura and Semba descended to BC while Palden Namgye and Namgyal stopped at C1 because they had gear to carry down the next day. Nice day without wind.


expid: THRK17301
peakid: THRK
year: 2017
route1: NW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Garrett Madison
sponsor: Madison Mountaineering Tharke Kang Expedition 2017
ascent1: 1st
countries: France
approach: Gokyo->BC by trekking, ABC by helicopter
bcdate: 2017-10-29
smtdate: 2017-11-03
smttime: 0915
campsites: BC(29/10,5000m),ABC(01/11,5850m),Smt(03/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Nup La glacier was ABC. Team reached ABC from BC by helicopter.

  Summiters departed ABC for summit at 2:15 am, summited at 9:15 am, stayed 30 minutes, then descended to ABC. Good weather, nice route, exposed ridge.


expid: TOBS17301
peakid: TOBS
year: 2017
route1: Pt 6056m-S Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Narendra Shahi
sponsor: Explore Tobsar Peak Autumn 2017
ascent1: 1st
approach: Tsum Valley->Mu Gompa->BC
bcdate: 2017-09-29
smtdate: 2017-10-01
smttime: 1420
termdate: 2017-10-02
othersmts: Summited Rolmi (ROLM-173-01)
campsites: BC(29/09,4700m),Biv(30/09,5600m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Churen Himal Treks
routememo:
  BC  29/09  4700m
  Biv 30/09  5600m
  Smt 01/10  by 3 Nepalese

  Nepali expedition to Tobsar, summiters/members:
    Narendra Shahi 
    Iman Gurung
    Samir Gurung 

  Climbed the 6056m subpeak (Rolmi) lying southwest of main summit (6065m) on route to main summit (6065m).

  Moderate difficulties, but climb a bit exposed on the long glacier (objective dangers in icefall). Some parts technical in the glacier (5200m, 5700m, 5800m), 2 times up and down, but not on the final ridge (lots of loose rock, no fixed ropes there). 

  Climbed in alpine style. Started at 5 am, summited at 2:20 pm, and back to 7:30 pm.

  In 2016, Sonam Gurung (from Trinetra Adventure) explored the area for future clients trips, but was stopped at 5600m by bad weather on the same W glacier approach. 

  Team left BC on 2 Oct.

  Route: Up glacier S of Tobsar to Pt 6056m to S Ridge of Tobsar to summit.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


expid: YANK17301
peakid: YANK
year: 2017
route1: S Face
nation: France
leaders: Gregoire Lestienne
sponsor: French Ohmi Kangri Himal Expedition 2017
ascent1: 1st
approach: Olanchungola->Yanma->BC
bcdate: 2017-10-24
smtdate: 2017-10-29
termdate: 2017-10-30
campsites: BC(24/10,5400m),Biv(28/10,5800m),Smt(29/10)
achievment: 1st ascent of Yanme Kang
agency: Yeti Adventure
othersmts:
  Attempted Lung Chung Kang (6475m peak on Tibean border southeast of Yanme Kang) and Senup (6265m peak southwest of the Yanme Kang area on the Tibetan border).

routememo:
  BC  24/10  5400m
  Biv 28/10  5800m
  Smt 29/10  by Gregoire Lestienne, Floriane Pugin (S Face of Yanme Kang) 

  HPt 30/10  5300m (E Face of Lung Chung Kang)
  HPt 02/11  5700m (Senup)

  Not a great alpine trip, as there are not many tough alpine goals there, but a beautiful area. Some local even told them to have never seen a mountaineer around. 

  First ascent of Yanme Kang, South Face (GPS altitude is lower: 6220m instead of 6244m on the map). 

  28 October: bivouac at 5800m.

  29 October: summit, back to BC on that day. Similar to a "Dome du Goûter" in Mont Blanc range. No objective risk. Otherwise all the western flank of the Lung Chung Kang is very prone to objective risk, with huge overhanging seracs bareers. Access from there would be like PD+, AD-. 

  30 October: attempted Lung Chung Kang (6475m), the nice pyramid lying just nearby south, via its eastern face (Tibetan side). As a straight western glacier access to it was too much prone to objective risks, the two accessed the peak's Tibetan side via the West Face of Nangamari I footstep. They reached 5300m in the face, then were stopped by the weather conditions, as it first begun to snow. But 2 hours later good weather was back! Had climbed 500m on the East Face (ice flutes, 55-60°, AD/AD+). Had reckoned the face with a drone. They couldn't ever see the West Face of the peak, sitting always in the clouds.

  2nd November: from Pabuktar, climbed up on a buttress/subsidiary peak of Mont Senup (6265m on Nepa map), using a 400m technical mixed and ice gully line exiting at 5700m, called "Les brasseurs savoyacks" (Difficult/M3/75°).

  Team left BC on 30 October.  
         
  Oxygen: Not taken, not used

  Other peaks: Lung Chung Kang, Mont Senup forepeak

  Note: this team likely climbed the 6244m peak northwest of the 6206m peak that Ministry calls Yanme Kang.


expid: AMAD17358
peakid: AMAD
year: 2017
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Niraj Karki
sponsor: Niraj Karki Ama Dablam Expedition 2017
bcdate: 2017-11-04
smtdate: 2017-11-09
smttime: 0810
termdate: 2017-11-10
campsites: BC(04/11,4700m),C1(06/11,5700m),C2(08/11,6000m),Smt(09/11)
agency: Prestige Adventure permit
routememo:
  BC  04/11  4700m
  C1  06/11  5700m
  C2  08/11  6000m
  Smt 09/11  by Karki at 8:10 am (climbed just behind IMG).

  Karki left C2 at around at 3 am. Straightforward climb. Perfect conditions. -15C on the summit. He spent about 30 minutes on the summit and descended to BC, where he arrived at about 6 pm. Left BC on 10/11.

  No Sherpas, no oxygen


expid: AMAD18101
peakid: AMAD
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Choi Seh-Wan
sponsor: Korean Ama Dablam Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2018-04-30
smtdate: 2018-05-12
smttime: 1700
termdate: 2018-05-14
campsites: BC(30/04,4600m),C1(10/05,5600m),C2(11/05/5900m),Smt(12/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks (Snowy Horizon pmt)
routememo:
  BC  30/04  4600m
  C1  10/05  5600m
  C2  11/05  5900m
  Smt 12/05  by Shin, Nima Sherpa, Astani Magar at 5 pm.

  Summit team, Yun and Choi left C2 at 1:30 am. Rope was fixed by another team. Mountain was dry and weather cloudy. They descended to C2, where they arrived at 8:35 pm.

  Yun and Choi reached 6200m on 12/05. They were both too tired and turned back at about 10 am and descended to C2.

  Kang reached C2 on 11/05. She was too tired and descended to BC.

  On 13 May everyone back at BC.

  Sherpas:
    Nima Sherpa, Khumbu
    Astani Magar, Solukhumbu


expid: AMAD18102
peakid: AMAD
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Ireland
leaders: Killian Cosgrave, Breiffini Crone
sponsor: Irish Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Pangboche
bcdate: 2018-04-07
smtdate: 2018-04-15
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2018-04-17
campsites: BC(07/04,4500m),C1(09/04,5600m),C2(14/04,5900m),Smt(15/04)
agency: Utmost Adventure (Happy Feet pmt)
routememo:
  BC  07/04  4500m
  C1  09/04  5600m
  C2  14/04  5900m
  Smt 15/04  by both members and both Sherpas at 11 am.

  Team left at midnight for summit push. Arrived at summit at 11 am. Got back to C2 at 8 pm. Next day down to BC. Stayed on the summit for 1 hour. Weather was good, not too windy.

  Sherpas:
    Temba Bhote (Makalu-Barun)
    Dandu Sherpa (Makalu-Barun)


expid: AMAD18103
peakid: AMAD
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Norway
leaders: Jon Gangdal
sponsor: Norwegian Ama Dablam Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Chhukung->Island Peak->Ama Dablam BC
bcdate: 2018-03-30
smtdate: 2018-04-08
termdate: 2018-04-09
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to tiredness, route difficulty and weather deterioration
campsites: BC(30/03,4600m),C1(03/04,5800m),C2(07/04,6000m),xxx(08/04,6700m)
accidents: Haagensli rescued from C2 by helicopter
agency: Tseringma Treks
routememo:
  BC  30/03  4600m
  C1  03/04  5800m
  C2  07/04  6000m
  HPt 08/04  6700m by Jens Gangdal, Jon Gangdal, Bjorn Haagensli and two Sherpas.

  Climb abandoned on 08/04 due to difficulty, tiredness

  Oxygen:
    Haagensli for medical reasons on descent to C2

  Team started summit push from C2 at 1:30 am on 08/04. Trones turned around at 7 am at around 6300m because he felt he didn't have the energy required to go all the way to the summit and descend safely. He turned around with his Sherpa Pemba Rita and descended to C2. The others turned around at 6700m at 1 pm because the weather deteriorated, they made slow progress and felt increasingly tired. Haagensli particularly felt bad, he was afraid of developing HACE as he failed doing simple tasks like handling his climbing gear. Conditions were difficult, it was a long day and reaching 6700m took them much longer than expected.

  Trones with Pemba Rita got back to C2 at 10 am, the others at 7:30 pm. Everyone spent the night at C2. In the morning of 09/04, Haagensli was rescued from C2 by long-line and taken to Kathmandu where he underwent treatment in hospital. He is recovering now, with no lasting damage. The others were helicoptered from BC to Kathmandu on 09/04.

  Hired: 
    Dawa Tenji Sherpa (Dolakha, Gaurishankar-1)
    Kili Pemba Sherpa (Dolakha, Gaurishankar-1)
    Pemba Rita Sherpa (Dolakha, Gaurishankar-1)


expid: AMAD18104
peakid: AMAD
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Arnaud Vanhollebeke
sponsor: French Ama Dablam Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2018-04-23
smtdate: 2018-05-06
termdate: 2018-05-08
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due difficult conditions
campsites: BC(23/04,4600m),C1(27/04,5750m),C2(06/05,6000m),xxx(06/05,6000m)
agency: Utmost Adventure (Happy Feet pmt)
routememo:
  BC  23/04  4600m
  C1  27/04  5750m
  C2  06/05  6000m
  HPt 06/05  at C2 (6000m) by Vanhollebeke, Taffin, Ongchhu Sherpa

  Climb abandoned on 07/05 due to difficult conditions.

  Taffin suffered from a tonsil infection at the start of the expedition. He saw a doctor at BC and recovered completely. Conditions on the mountain were difficult, the weather was unstable, fixed ropes were buried under the snow. The team reached C2 and decided to abandon the climb because they felt too tired to go for the summit in the difficult conditions on the mountain. On 07/05 everyone went down from C2 to BC. On 08/05 they flew to Kathmandu by helicopter from BC.

  Oxygen: not taken, not used

  Hired:
    Ongchhu Sherpa


expid: AMAD18105
peakid: AMAD
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Malaysia
leaders: Raman Hachoodan
sponsor: Snowy Horizon Ama Dablam Expedition 2018
smtdate: 2018-05-15
termnote: Abandoned above 6300m due to bad weather
campsites: BC,C1,C2,xxx(15/05,6300m+)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  From The Himalayan Times - 21 May 2018

  KATHMANDU: A Malaysian climber has been found dead near camp II on Mt Ama Dablam (6,812 m) in the Mt Everest region, the expedition organiser said.

  According to Bodhraj Bhandari, Managing Director at Snowy Horizon Treks, a team of Sherpa rescuers recovered the body of Raman Nair Hachoodan, 41, who went missing from 6300m since May 15.

  “His body was recovered from a gorge at around 5300m,” he said. According to rescuers, the climber fell some 1000m down from the high camp after he along with two other climbers were returning to the lower camps while abandoning his summit bid due to bad weather.


expid: ANN118101
peakid: ANN1
year: 2018
route1: N Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Hong-Bin
sponsor: 2018 Kim Hong-Bin Annapurna Citizen Expedition
approach: Flight to Pokhara->Road to Tatopani; Tatopani->BC (trekking)
bcdate: 2018-04-13
smtdate: 2018-05-13
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2018-05-16
campsites: BC(13/04,4050m),C1(16/04,5080m),C2(20/04,5500m),C3(01/05,6500m),C4(12/05,7050m),Smt(13/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  13/04  4050m
  C1  16/04  5080m
  C2  20/04  5500m
  C3  01/05  6500m
  C4  12/05  7050m
  Smt 13/05  by Kim, Pechhumbe, Gelje Sherpa, Chhiring, Nima Tenji at 11:30 am.

  Summit team started from C4 at 9 pm on 12/05. They did not fix any rope on summit day, but moved on a rope together. Route was avalanche prone but Ok. A few falling seracs. Snow conditions were good, not too deep. They spent about one hour on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 7 pm. On 14/05 everyone back to BC.

  Left BC on 16/05 by helicopter.

  Sherpas:
    Pechhumbe (Chumbe), Tashigaon, Makalu-Barun, 22/09/1987
    Gelje Sherpa, Kagani-8, Okhaldhunga, 24/09/1977
    Nima Tenje, Tashigaon, Makalu-Barun 11/10/1978 
    Chhiring Sherpa, Kagani-8, Okhaldhunga (1st 8000er)

  Fixed rope:	4000m from C1 to C4

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C4 to top to C4 by member and Sherpas.


expid: BARU18101
peakid: BARU
year: 2018
route1: SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Damian Benegas
sponsor: Benegas Brothers Baruntse Expedition 2018
countries: Norway
approach: Lukla->Namche->Zatra La->Mera Peak->Baruntse BC
bcdate: 2018-04-24
smtdate: 2018-04-29
termdate: 2018-04-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to too much snow
othersmts: Summited Mera Peak
campsites: BC(24/04,5450m),C1(26/04,6140m),xxx(29/04,6200m)
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  BC  24/04  5450m
  C1  26/04  6140m (West Col)
  HPt 29/04  6200m by Benegas, Fox, Evensen

  Climb abandoned on 30/04 due to too much snow.

  After having climbed Mera Peak team headed to Baruntse BC, but there was too much snow and the conditions were too dangerous.

  Fixed rope:	600m to West Col

  Oxygen: not taken, not used


  Damian Benegas via FB message:

  From West Col was no one except lots of garbage from previous expedition. We fixed to West Col on the 26 April, C1 (6140m.) Then it started snowing. On 29 April, we tried to head to C2, but bad weather and after reading snow conditions we figured out that the avalanche danger was too high. On the 30 April we decided to pull the plug.


expid: BARU18102
peakid: BARU
year: 2018
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Romania
leaders: Adrian Laza
sponsor: Romanian Baruntse-Makalu Expedition 2015
approach: Flight to Tumlingar, Jeep to Num, trekked to Makalu BC, then Baruntse BC
bcdate: 2018-04-21
smtdate: 2018-04-26
termdate: 2018-05-02
termnote: Abandoned at 6850m due to impassible crevasse
campsites: BC(21/04,4800m),C1(25/04,6140m),C2(26/04,6400m),xxx(26/04,6850m)
accidents: Avalanche at 6700 on Baruntse
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  21/04  4800m (Makalu Hillary BC)
  C1 	25/04  6140m (West Col)
  C2  26/04  6400m
  HPt 26/04  6850m by Laza, Pemba Sherpa, Dawa Sherpa.

  High point team reached a big crevasse which they could only cross with a ladder. They did not have a ladder and they descended to C2. The weather was very bad. On 28/04 they returned to Makalu BC to find a ladder, but were not successful. They returned to C2 on 30 April. On 01/05 they were ascending to the crevasse again as they wanted to set up a camp there and try to cross the crevasse with ropes and ice screws. The snow was very deep it took them around five hours to reach it. When they reached about 6700m they were hit by an avalanche. Pemba and Dawa tumbled down for about 800m, Laza was able to self arrest. Pemba bruised his ribs, Dawa and Laza were fine. They had lost all the equipment. After the avalanche, they went straight to Sherpani Col.


expid: CHAM18101
peakid: CHAM
year: 2018
route1: N Pillar from west via east glacier
nation: France
leaders: Aymeric Clouet
sponsor: French Chamlang Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Mera La->Chamlang BC
bcdate: 2018-04-28
smtdate: 2018-05-26
termdate: 2018-05-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to bad weather and lack of acclimatization
campsites: BC(28/04,5000m),ABC(13/05,5500m),C1(19/05,6100m),C2(26/05,6500m),xxx
agency: Holiday Himalaya Treks
routememo:
  BC  28/04  5000m (30 April Billon and Chance)
  ABC 05/13  5500m
  C1  05/19  6100m
  C2  05/26  6500m

  High point on 26-27/05 by four members at 6500m on the N Pillar, below an overhanging section.

  Climb abandoned on 26-27/05 in the night due to weather conditions and lack of acclimatization.

  Antoine Cayrol could not join the expedition he was meant to be the leader of. He had been shot by a neighbor in Vic Sur Cere, miraculously surviving then waking up after a coma period.

  Team did not acclimatize on Mera Peak as initially planned. Did instead a first acclimatization trip to 5500m on the West Ridge of Chamlang to reconnoitre their intended descent route after North Pillar; spent 2 nights there (on 08-09/05), a thunderstorm during second night forcing them to move 20m below the ridge to avoid thunder; they waited there during 1.5 hours under snowfall.

  After some days rest in base camp, to continue their acclimatization, Aymeric and Sebastien went back on the West Ridge on 13/05 at 6000m. Got again a thunderstorm and snow, then came back down to BC the next day.

  Meanwhile (also on 13/05), others went to reconnoitre the attack of the North Pillar via the East Hongu Glacier (Finn Map), eventually aiming to approach it via its east side. They did not aim to attack the pillar directly by the north, since it is a steep dark rotten rocky face. During the night at 5500m, Laurent did not feel good, so all went back down to BC the next day to meet the other team also back from West Ridge.

  On 15/05, Laurent left the expedition, showing apparent serious symptoms of pulmonary edema, in fact, a doctor diagnosed him a pulmonary infection afterwards.

  On 18/05 all remaining members went back to 5500m camp (ABC) for further acclimatization and reconnaissance of North Pillar.

  On 19/05 they went up to a 6100m col (col located between 6439m shoulder of North Pillar and 6260m peak northeast of it, towards Honku Chuli – 6833m), giving access to the long glacier located afoot of the north face of other peaks of Chamlang eastwards, and also to the North Pillar from east. Established here their C1. On that day team had climbed 8 pitches, including 2 in mixed ground with not much difficulty; remnant was 60-70° very hard ice slopes. Found some climbing gear remnants of previous ropes (2015 Inurrategui team had been there). Spent rest of the day acclimatizing in very warm temperatures.

  On 20/05, Aymeric, Sebastien, Emmanuel went up towards the 6439m shoulder of the North Pillar to reconnoitre the latter. French grade AD for difficulties on that day. Stopped at 6300m in rotten snow, quite late, on the east ridge of 6439m shoulder (had climbed southeast face of it). Went back down to C1.

  On 21/05 all went back down to BC.

  On 24/05 team started up for a first serious try, despite feeling not enough acclimatized, and slept at ABC. Weather had been beautiful from May 20 to May 24.
    
  On 25/05 team slept at C1.

  On 26/05 awoke at midnight, the team climbed up to C2 via a mixed line right under the ice-flutes zone and avoided it by the left to join the North Ridge at its lower point (M5 max). Then they followed the ridge until a huge gendarme with a big roof, at approximately 6500m. On the west side of the ridge they found a good bivy platform protected by a roof, setting C2 there.

  On 27/05 some members had spent a hard night at C2 the previous night, during which the wind had blown forcefully. Weather forecast was also quite bad, so they went back to C1. During the evening, they got a message from their weather forecaster announcing a reinforcement of the wind plus bad weather for the coming days. Decided to abandon and come back down to BC next day.

  On 28/05 they went back to BC. On that day had started very early to avoid objective dangers. A worthwhile precaution, since a massive stone fall occurred just after their passage.
   
  Lise Billon mentionned she did not feel well for a reason she could not really identify, whether because she got hit by an ice block in the access face to C1 on 25/05 or whether because she could not cope with altitude and had not sufficient acclimatization, leading her to use medicines? 
   
  On the way back to Lukla, their sirdar assisted to the murder of a villager by two others.

  Fixed rope: none

  Oxygen: not taken not used


expid: CHOY18101
peakid: CHOY
year: 2018
route1: NW side
nation: Australia
leaders: Rolfe Oostra
sponsor: 360 Expeditions Cho Oyu 2018
countries: UK
approach: Syrabru Besi->Rasuwa->Gerong->BC by vehicle
bcdate: 2018-04-11
smtdate: 2018-05-13
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2018-05-14
campsites: CBC(11/04,4800m),ABC(20/04,5700m),IC(26/04,6000m),C1(27/04,6400m),C2(11/05,7120m),Smt(13/05)
accidents: Chhiring Thinduk celebral edema at ABC and was evacuated to Kathmandu
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  CBC 17/04  4800m (Chinese BC)
  ABC 20/04  5700m
  IC  26/04  6000m (lake camp)
  C1  27/04  6400m
  C2  11/05  7120m
  Smt 13/05  by Cook and Pemba Nuru at 10 am, West and Pemba Nuru (again) at 10:30 am

  Team had reached C2 on May/05 and were intending to summit on 12/05, however, the winds were too strong to climb. On 13/05, they left C2 at midnight. Weather was clear and calm. Cook and Pemba were about half an hour ahead of Oostra and West. The yellow band was dry and crumbly. Lots of rockfall. At around 9 am at 8140m Oostra and West ran low on oxygen. Oostra was under the impression that they both had two oxygen cylinders in their pack, however, only he had a cylinder, which he gave to West and Oostra descended. West continued on her own and met Cook and Pemba on their descent. Pemba ascended again with West and Cook descended.

  Oostra descended to C1, where he arrived at 2 pm. Cook, West and Pemba descended to C2, where they arrived at 4 pm.

  Cairey reached 6600m on 28/04 during the first rotation. She also joined the summit rotation, however, she turned back after about one hour. She had no strength no motivation left and decided to turn back.

  On 24/04 Chhiring Thinduk got celebral edema at ABC and was evacuated immediately. He was taken to hospital in Kathmandu, where he stayed for one week.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used C2 to summit to C2 by Pemba, Cook and West
    From C2 to 8140m by Oostra

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Nuru, Khumjung, 27/11/80
    Chhiti Thinduk (Chhiring Thinduk) Bhote, Hatiya-3, 25/08/81


expid: CHOY18102
peakid: CHOY
year: 2018
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Felix Berg
sponsor: SummitClimb Cho Oyu Expedition 2018
countries: Italy
approach: Syrabru Besi->Rasuwa->Gerong->BC by vehicle
bcdate: 2018-04-16
smtdate: 2018-05-13
smttime: 1215
termdate: 2018-05-14
campsites: CBC(16/04,4800m),ABC(19/04,5700m),C1(23/04,6400m),C2(03/05,7140m),Smt(13/05)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  CBC  16/04  4800m
  ABC  19/04  5700m
  C1   23/04  6400m
  C2   03/05  7140m (Gruner, Lercher, Porwit, Dawa Jangbu Sherpa)
  Smt  13/05  by Berg, Troeger, Dawa Jangbu at 2:30 pm CST (12:15 pn NST)

  Summit team left C2 at 2:30 am (CST). Weather was clear and calm. They spent about 20 mintues on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at 7:30 pm (CST). At 2:30 am on 14/05, they descended to C1. Berg stayed at C1 and Troeger continued to ABC. On 14/05, everyone back at ABC.

  On their first rotation, the team stayed at C1 from 23 to 26/04 and fixed some rope towards C2 up to the icefall. On 26/04 they descended to BC.

  On 27/04 Gruner went to Tingri with Atanas Skatov as he was not feeling well. He stayed there for two nights and returned to ABC on 29/04.

  On 03/05 Gruner, Lercher, Porwit and Jangbu Sherpa ascended to C2, intending to go to the summit on 04/05. Berg ascended to C2 on 04/05 to talk them out of going for the summit as he did not think the weather was favourable. Everyone descended with Gruner and Lercher staying at C1, and Berg, Porwit and Jangbu descending to ABC. On 05/05 they were all back down at ABC.

  Gruner and Lercher left ABC on 11/05 as they had decided for themselves that their expedition was over.

  Hille reached 6850m on 25/04. During summit rotation, he reached C1 and decided to abandon the climb as he did not believe that weather window would come.

  Porwit reached C2 on 11/05 on the summit rotation. As they had to wait a second day due to the weather he decided to descend as he would not have been strong enough to go down to ABC in one day after the summit, which they were planning to do.

  Fixed rope: 400m

  Oxygen: not taken, not used

  Sherpa:
    Dawa Jangbu (Da Jangbu), Patle-4, Okhaldhunga, 04/06/1979


expid: CHOY18103
peakid: CHOY
year: 2018
route1: NW side
nation: Bulgaria
leaders: Atanas Skatov
sponsor: A Vegan on Cho Oyu!
approach: Flight to Lhasa, by Jeep to BC
bcdate: 2018-04-18
smtdate: 2018-05-13
smttime: 1415
termdate: 2018-05-15
campsites: CBC(18/04,4800m),ABC(21/04,5700m),C1(24/04,6400m),C2(03/05,7100m),Smt(13/05)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions (Satori Adventures pmt)
routememo:
  CBC 18/04  4800m
  ABC 21/04  5700m
  C1  24/04  6400m
  C2  03/05  7100m
  Smt 13/05  Skatov at 4:30 pm CST (14:15 pm NST).

  Skatov started his summit push at 2 pm (CST) on 13/05. The fixed ropes were already in from Alpenglow Expeditions. Straightforward climb. Up to the Yellow Band he could keep up with the people using oxygen, but from there it got harder.

  He met Domenech from Andorra (who summited at 1:30 pm) on the plateau. He gave him water and some food. On the plateau, he met Felix Berg and his client and Franck Tessier, who were on their way down. When he reached the summit, the weather came in and it was cloudy. He spent about 1 minute on the summit and descended to C2, where he arrived at 8 pm.

  Shin from South Korea (Satori team) was also on the summit push with them. He turned back at around 8000m at about 3:30 pm as he was very tired. He returned to C2, where he arrived at about 7 pm. Skatov shared a tent with Felix Berg and his client, who left at 2 pm to go down to BC. 

  On 14/05, he left C2 at 1:30 pm. He had been waiting for someone from CTMA to help him carry down the tent, but they never arrived, hence he left so late. He talked to Shin, who was in his tent and told him to go down as well, but he said he did not want to go down. He said he would come later.

  At 1:30 pm Skatov packed up his camp, descended to C1, where he arrived at 4 pm, dismantled his camp there and reached ABC at 8:20 pm.

  According to Skatov, a rescue team went up to C2 to look for Shin at 8 am on 15/05. When they reached him, he was still alive, but weak and they gave him oxygen and helped him down to C1, where he apparently died.

  On 15/05 Skatov left BC and went to Tingri, where he stayed until 18/05. He had intended to climb Everest, but he was not allowed to go without Sherpa. He left Everest BC and returned to Kathmandu.

  Oxygen: not taken, not used


expid: CHOY18104
peakid: CHOY
year: 2018
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Franck Tessier
sponsor: French Cho Oyu Expedition 2018
approach: Syrabru Besi->Rasuwa->Gerong->BC by vehicle
bcdate: 2018-04-16
smtdate: 2018-05-13
smttime: 1315
termdate: 2018-05-15
campsites: CBC(16/04,4800m),ABC(21/04/5700m),C1(22/04,6400m),C2(01/05,7200m),Smt(13/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  CBC 16/04  4800m
  ABC 22/04  5700m
  C1  22/04  6400m
  C2  01/05  7200m
  Smt 13/05  by Tessier at 3:30 pm CST (1:15 pm NST).

  Tessier went from ABC to C2 directly on 11/05. He stayed two nights at C2 and left for the summit at 1:30 am (CST) on 13/05. The weather was cold with light winds. He stayed for an hour and descended to C2, where he arrived at 7 pm.

  On 14/05 he dismantled his C2, descended to C1. He tried to dismantle his tent at C1, but it was frozen to the ground and he could not remove it as it was covered in ice. He continued to ABC.

  When he was at C2 he spoke to the young South Korean (with Satori) and told him to go down with him, but the Korean said that he wanted to stay. When Tessier was at ABC, there was a rescue team who brought the South Korean down to C1. He was very unwell and apparently died at C1 on 15/05.

  Oxygen: not taken, not used


expid: CHOY18105
peakid: CHOY
year: 2018
route1: NW side
nation: Andorra
leaders: Domenech Trastoy Diaz
sponsor: Andorran Cho Oyu Expedition 2018
approach: Syrabru Besi->Rasuwa->Gerong->BC by vehicle
bcdate: 2018-04-16
smtdate: 2018-05-13
smttime: 1115
termdate: 2018-05-15
campsites: CBC(16/04,4800m),ABC(21/04,5700m),C1(22/04,6400),C2(03/05,7100m),Smt(13/05)
agency: Expedition Himalaya (Satori Adventures pmt)
routememo:
  CBC 16/04  4800m
  ABC 21/04  5700m
  C1  22/04  6400m
  C2  03/05  7100m
  Smt 13/05  by Trastoy Diaz at 1:30 pm CST (11:15 am NST)

  Trastoy Diaz started his summit push with rest of the Satori group at 2 am (CST) on 13/05. The fixed ropes were already in from Alpenglow Expeditions. Straightforward climb.

  Oxygen: not taken, not used


expid: CHOY18106
peakid: CHOY
year: 2018
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Adrian Ballinger
sponsor: Alpenglow Cho Oyu/Everest Lightning Ascent 2018
countries: Ecuador, USA
approach: Lhasa->Tingri->Cho Oyu BC by vehicle
bcdate: 2018-05-01
smtdate: 2018-05-06
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2018-05-09
campsites: BC(29/04,5000m),ABC(30/04,5600m),C1(04/05,6400m),C2(05/05,7100m),Smt(06/05)
agency: Himalaya Vision
primid: EVER18170
routememo:
  The Lightning Ascent team summited Cho Oyu nine days are departing the USA for China, arriving at Cho Oyu BC on 29 April. After arriving at base camp, they moved up to ABC the next day, staying 3 nights to acclimatize, then began their summit push on 4 May moving up to C1, to C2 on 5 May, then summiting on 6 May at 8:30 am after departing C2 at 11:30 pm. Team then descended to ABC by 4 pm that day.

  Sherpas for Cho+Everest:
    Dorji Sonam Gyalzen Sherpa
    Palden Namgye Sherpa
    Urken Lendu Sherpa
    Mingma Chhiring Sherpa
    Gyaljen Dorje Sherpa


expid: CHOY18107
peakid: CHOY
year: 2018
route1: NW side
nation: S Korea
leaders: Park Shin-Yong
sponsor: Satori Cho Oyu Expedition 2018
smtdate: 2018-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to exhaustion
campsites: CBC,ABC,C1,C2,xxx(13/05,8000m)
agency: Satori Adventures
routememo:
  Atanas Skatov:

  Shin from South Korea (Satori team) was also on the summit push with them. Shin turned back at around 8000m at about 3:30 pm as he was very tired. He returned to C2, where he arrived at about 7 pm. Skatov shared a tent with Felix Berg and his client, who left at 2 pm to go down to BC.

  On 14/05, Skatov left C2 at 1:30 pm. He had been waiting for someone from CTMA to help him carry down the tent, but they never arrived, hence he left so late. He talked to Shin, who was in his tent and told him to go down as well, but he said he did not want to go down. He said he would come later.

  According to Skatov, a rescue team went up to C2 to look for Shin at 8 am on 15/05. When they reached him, he was still alive, but weak and they gave him oxygen and helped him down to C1, where he apparently died [on 16/05].


expid: DHA118101
peakid: DHA1
year: 2018
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Serbia
leaders: Dragan Celikovic
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Dhaulagiri Expedition 2017
countries: India, Japan, Poland, Spain
approach: Beni->Khamla->Boghara->Italian BC->BC
bcdate: 2018-04-11
smtdate: 2018-05-19
termdate: 2018-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(11/04,4600m),C1(18/04,5600m),C2(23/04,6500m),C3(17/05,7300m),xxx(19/05,7900m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Seven Summit Treks Dhaulagiri expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Seven Summits provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Rosa Fernandez (Spain)

  Appr:  Beni->Khamla->Boghara->Italian BC->BC
  Camps: BC(11/04,4600m),C1(18/04,5600m),C2(23/04,6500m),C3(17/05,7300m),xxx
  Left:  21/05/2018
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 7300m due to high winds

  Expedition abandoned due to high winds and bad weather forecast. Fernandez descended together with Carlos Soria’s team and Celikovic from Serbia. 

  Oxygen: not taken, not used


  Dragan Celikovic (Serbia)

  Appr:  Beni->Khamla->Boghara->Italian BC->BC
  Camps: BC(11/04,4600m),C1(18/04,5600m),C2(23/04,6500m),C3(17/05,7300m),xxx
  Left:  21/05/2018
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 7300m due to high winds

  Expedition abandoned due to high winds and bad weather forecast. Celikovic descended together with Carlos Soria’s team and Fernandez from Spain. 

  Oxygen: taken and used from C2 to high point to C2 by Celikovic


  Debasish Biswas (India)

  Appr:  Beni->Khamla->Boghara->Italian BC->BC
  Camps: BC(11/04,4600m),C1(18/04,5600m),C2(23/04,6500m),C3(17/05,7300m),
         xxx(19/05,7900m)
  Left:  21/05/2018
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 7900m due to high winds

  Biswas had reached C3 together with Carlos Soria's team, Dragan Celikovic and Rosa Fernandez. On 18/05 it was very windy and while the others descended to BC Biswas remained at C3 hoping for better weather.

  On 18/05 he started from C3 at 10 pm. He climbed up the last couloirs and gained another hump. However, the winds did not abate and he decided to turn back at 12:30 pm. He descended to C3 and on 20 May he returned to BC.

  Oxygen: taken and used from C3 to high point to C3 by Biswas

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Gyalgen Sherpa


  Inigo Castinyera (Spain)

  Appr:  Beni->Khamla->Boghara->Italian BC->BC
  Camps: BC(11/04,4600m),C1(18/04,5600m),C2(23/04,6500m),C3(17/05,7300m),
         xxx(18/05,7500m)
  Left:  21/05/2018
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 7500m due to high winds and no fixed rope

  Reached 7500m on 18/05. Returned as no fixed rope, decided was too dangerous. Combination of lack of fixed rope and weather conditions.


  Waldemar Kowalewski (Poland)

  Appr:  Beni->Khamla->Boghara->Italian BC->BC
  Camps: BC(11/04,4600m),C1(18/04,5600m),C2(23/04,6500m),C3(28/04,7300m),xxx
  Term:  Abandoned at 7300m due to fatal accident of Laterra

  Reached height of 7300m on 28/04. Not established why he returned to Simone Laterra who had remained at 6800m. However upon return to the tent, Laterra was blown off the mountain whilst inside the tent and was killed.


expid: DHA118102
peakid: DHA1
year: 2018
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Carlos Soria
sponsor: Expedicion Carlos Soria-IFEMA Dhaulagiri 2018
approach: Helicopter to BC
bcdate: 2018-04-16
smtdate: 2018-05-17
termdate: 2018-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to winds and bad weather forecast
campsites: BC(16/04,4600m),C1(22/04,5500m),C2(16/05,6500m),C3(17/05,7300m),xxx
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  16/04  4600m
  C1  22/04  5500m
  C2  16/05  6500m
  C3  17/05  7300m
  HPt 17/05  7300m by Soria, Lopez, Carcavilla, Mingtemba Sherpa (Mikel), 
             Dawa Rinji Sherpa, Nima Wangdak Sherpa, Dawa Temba Sherpa, 
             Ang Kami Sherpa, Dawa Sange Sherpa.

  The team was on their summit push, but it was very windy and the weather forecast was also bad. The conditions on the mountain were dry and icy. Between C2 and C3 there was a lot of ice.

  On 17/05 the Sherpa team fixed to the beginning of the traverse at about 7600m.

  On 18/05 they descended to BC.

  Fixed rope: main section between C2 and C3, approx 4000m

  Oxygen: taken, not used


expid: DHA118103
peakid: DHA1
year: 2018
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Manuel Sanchez Galindo
sponsor: Expedicion Granadina Dhaulagiri
approach: Beni->Boghara->Italian BC->BC
bcdate: 2018-04-19
smtdate: 2018-05-17
termdate: 2018-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(19/04,4600m),C1(21/04,5500m),C2(23/04,6500m),C3(17/04,7300m),xxx
agency: Bochi Bochi Treks
routememo:
  BC  19/04  4600m
  C1  21/04  5500m
  C2  23/04  6500m
  C3  17/05  7300m
  HPt 17/05  7300m by Galindo, Saldana Rodriguez, Fernandez Vivancos

  The team was on their summit push, but it was very windy and the weather forecast was also bad. The conditions on the mountiain were good. A lot of ice at C3.

  On 18/05 they descended to BC. They were quite upset as the weather was good and did not turn out to be as bad as the weather forecast said.

  Cantos Medina reached C2 on 17/05. He did not really intend to go to the summit.

  Oxygen: not taken, not used


expid: DHA118104
peakid: DHA1
year: 2018
route1: NE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Mi-Gon
sponsor: 2018 Dhaulagiri I Expedition for Peace
countries: China, Taiwan
approach: Helicoptor from Pokhara to BC
bcdate: 2018-04-22
smtdate: 2018-05-19
termdate: 2018-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to bad weather and being too late in the day
campsites: BC(22/04,4600m),C1(26/04,5800m),C2(27/04,6660m),C3(17/05,7300m),xxx(19/05,7900m)
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal
routememo:
  BC  22/04 & 02/05	4600m
  C1  26/04 & 05/05	5800m
  C2  27/04			6660m
  C3  17/05			7000m
  HPt 19/05			7900-8000m by Han, Lu, Kim, Quesada (from Prestige Adventure)
                      and Tenzing Sherpa at 2 pm.

  Han and Kim arrived at BC by helicopter on 02/05 as Han had been skiing to the North Pole and arrived late.

  They abandoned the summit push as Seven Summit Treks, who was in charge of fixing the rope, did not do it. Then they said they fixed to 7700m, but they had stopped to fix at 7500m.

  The team carried 500m up to fix the rest of the mountain, which they did together with their Sherpa. They left C4 at 11 pm. When they reached 7900-8000m it was already 2 pm, which they thought was too late. It was also windy and they did not feel comfortable about the two Spanish ladies climbing without oxygen as they were not doing very well and they thought that they would run into trouble.

  They turned back at 2 pm and descended to C3, where they arrived at 5 pm. On 22/05, they descended to BC.

  Yun reached C3, but did not join the summit push as he was not feeling well. He descended directly to BC.

  Team left BC on 22/05 by helicopter.

  Fixed rope: 500m from 7500m to 8000m

  Oxygen:	
    Taken and used from C3 to high point to C3 by Han
    From 7500m to high point by Kim
    Lu did not use oxygen
    Yun did not use oxygen as he only reached C3

  Sherpa:
    Tenzing Sherpa, Makalu (Spanish media gives name of Pasang Sherpa)


expid: DHA118105
peakid: DHA1
year: 2018
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Catalina Quesada Castro
sponsor: Prestige Adventure International Dhaulagiri Expedition 2018
countries: Canada, Chile, Italy, Mexico, Poland, Romania, USA
bcdate: 2018-04-12
smtdate: 2018-05-19
termdate: 2018-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(12/04,4600m),C1,C2,C3(17/05,7300m),xxx(19/05,7900m)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Prestige Adventure Dhaulagiri expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-5 climbers each). Prestige provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Lina Quesada Castro (Spain)
  Francisco Piriz Mato (Spain)

  Appr:  Marpha->Franch Pass->BC
  Camps: BC(25/04,4600m),C1(27/04,5600m),C2(28/04,6400m),C3(17/05,7300m),
         xxx(19/05,7900m)
  Left:  25/05/2018
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned at 7900m due to bad conditions and weather

  Piriz and Quesada came down with Waldemar Kowaleski, who saw when Simone Laterra was blown away in his tent. On 01/05 they ascended again to C1 and wanted to continue, but the weather was too bad and they descended again.

  Piriz left BC on 13/05 and trekked back to Beni. He arrived in Kathmandu on 16/05.

  Quesada made another summit attempt on 19/05 and reached 7900m with Zarzuelo and the Koraean/Chinese team.

  Oxygen: not taken, not used


  Eva Zarzuelo (Spain)
  Juan Pablo Mohr (Chile)
  Jonatan Garcia (Spain)
  Nicolas Mena (Chile)
  Jean De Heeckeren (Chile)

  Appr:  Darbang->Italian BC->BC
  Camps: BC(4600m),C1(5600m),C2(6400m),C3(17/05,7300m),xxx(19/05,7900m)
  Term:  Abandoned at 7900m due to bad weather

  Jonatan Garcia and Juan Pablo Mohr reached 7650m on 18/05, turned around due to weather at 8:30 am, and returned to C3 at 10:30 am. Said ropes were well fixed up to that height, but not beyond.

  Zarzuela reached 7900m together with Quesada and Koreans/Chinese on 19/05. They turned back as it was too windy.

  De Heeckeren and Mena were support and did not go beyond C2.

  Oxygen – not taken, not used


  Nicholas Rice (USA)
  Ryan Kushner (USA)
  Christopher Manning (Canada)

  Appr:  Beni->Darbang->Italian BC->BC
  Camps: BC(20/04,4600m),C1(23/04,5650m),C2(6500m),C3(17/05,7250m),xxx(19/05,7600m)
  Left:  22/05/2018
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned at 7600m due to lack of fixed ropes and bad weather

  Ryan Kushner and Christopher Manning reached 7600m on 19/05. Both turned back at beginning of the traverse, since there were no more ropes further fixed and it was very windy.

  Accidents:

  Nicholas Rice fell into a crevasse on 24/04 below C2 on the way down to C1. He helped himself to get out of the trap, twisting his leg and fracturing a bone in the leg. From C1 had needed 4.5 hours to climb up to C2, but needed several hours to go down for same section. Kushner, Bonilla and Lopez helped him down on the day after from C1 to BC. He tried to keep climbing, but the pain was too much for him so he quit on 17/05 at 7100m below C3.

  Ryan Kushner, with Christopher Manning and Waldemar Kowalewski on 21/05 had accident: as a huge avalanche threatened to hit them at about 5000m on a kind of plateau, the 3 members ran away and Ryan fell in a crevassed aera nearby the beginning of the fixed rope section at the end of the plateau. His companions took him out of there, as Ryan had not fully disappeared in the crevasse (he managed to put a hand out of the crevasse his companions could take).


  Badia Bonilla (Mexico)
  Mauricio Lopez (Mexico)

  Camps: BC(24/04,4740m),C1(25/04,5900m),C2(26/04,6400m),xxx(17/05,6400m)
  Left:  22/05/18
  Term:  Abandoned at 6400m due to bad weather?


  Alex Gavan (Romania)
  Simone La Terra (Italy)
  Pawel Michalski (Poland)

  Appr:  Beni->Darbang->Italian BC->BC
  Camps: BC(12/04,4600m),C1(20/04,5700m),C2(26/04,6500m),C3(28/04,6976m),xxx
  Left:  02/05/2018
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned at 7600m due to lack of fixed ropes and bad weather

  Gavan and Michalski decided not to join La Terra on his second rotation due to the high avalanche danger. La Terra started on his own and died on 29/04 as his tent was taken away by the wind (see Alex Gavan's account below). On 29/04 at 3:20 am Gavan and Michalski left BC for C1 and reached C1 at 9:20 am.

  At around 10 am Lina Quesada, Javier Piriz and Waldemar Kowalewski came down from C2 and told them that Simone La Terra had probably died. He was blown away in his tent.

  Gavan and Michalski got on their satellite phone to organise the helicopter for a search. The helicopter was sent to Dhaulagiri at about noon, but could only reach Italian BC due to bad weather. The helicopter stayed at Italian BC overnight (pilot and Mingma from SST). Gavan and Michalski stayed at C1 for the night and on 30/04 the helicopter picked up Gavan to search for La Terra's body. They found it at around 9 am, dropped them at BC and picked up Michalski from C1. 

  La Terra's body was flown straight to Kathmandu on 30/04 and Michalski and Gavan stayed at BC. On 02/05 they got a helicopter ride to return to Kathmandu.

  Gavan and Michalski reached C1 as their highest point.

  Deaths: La Terra died as his tent was blown away	

  Oxygen: not taken, not used


  SIMONE LA TERRA ON DHAULAGIRI. SEARCH AND RESCUE OPERATION. BOOTS ON THE GROUND REPORT.

  by Alex Gavan, co-initiator and rescuer, together with Pawel Michalski
  01.05.2017 – Dhaulagiri Base Camp, 4600m

  When good people die words are lacking because them of being unnecessary in the first place.

  When a good man and friend dies, the burden of writing the report about his passing away borders denial.

  This text is for bringing light to Simone’s last moments, family report (who read this before it went public), serving for insurance purposes and as well as a „boots on the ground” report regarding what happened and how things unfolded during the rescue mission.

  28 April 2018: At 11 am, Simone La Terra (It) and Valdi Kovalewski (Pl) are climbing on the North-East Ridge of Dhaulagiri. Their aim is to further their acclimatisation process for an upcoming oxygenless attempt of the summit. At 6976m, Simone decides he would rather stop and pitch his tent there while Valdi feels he needs to spend the night at a higher altitude in order for him to be able to safely tackle the summit. At around 1 pm Simone radioes us into the base camp. He speaks with Pawel and I witness the conversation. He is inside his tent, tired and coughing. It took him around two hours to pitch it. The place is steep and narrow and he is attached with his harness on the fixed rope outside. He says his feet are quite half dangling into the void and this attracts him our scolding, replying him back that this is not Yosemite or some other big wall place. Later on, at the agreed 5 pm radio time, Simone fails to make contact with us. Pawel says he has a bad hunch but we don’t give it much thought, not having contact in the mountains can be due to many reasons, not necesarily bad ones.

  29 April: After much thought and analysing the weather forecast, at 3:30 am, Pawel and myself start our climb into the night to Camp 1. Our plan is to further establish Camp 2 at 6400m on April 30th. If in good condition and weather permitting we also want to climb up the North-East Ridge on May 1 and also spend an acclimatisation night above 7000m, thus putting us in the position of attempting the summit without supplemental oxygen, as in all our previous expeditions. It took us the pretty short time of six hours to get to the 5700m camp. At 10 am, a Spanish climber comes down from Camp 2 and I am hearing her through the fabric of my tent: „Pawel, I think Simone died”. My stomach contracts, my heart sinks and I am listening to the conversation. Minutes later, Valdi arrives down as well and he reveals the facts. The previous day he continued to climb till reaching the lower Camp 3, at 7200m. A desolate place, not much used anymore. The wind and spindrift are speeding up, so intense that he is not able to proper pitch his tent. He anchors himself from the harness to the mountain using one ice screw as well as many snow stakes for the tent. After half an hour the wind breaks the tent and he realises he needs to descend. At 4 pm something he reaches to Simone’s to find shelter. Valdi is on belay on the fix rope, Simone is inside, they held small conversation about how to proceed. Few minutes are passing, Simone is working inside the tent to make place for Valdi, while Valdi is decongesting the snow from the tent’s entrance. A sudden powerful gust of wind is blowing the tent’s fabric, transforming it into as a ship’s sail. It takes a fraction of a second for the tent to be blown over the edge, Simone inside, „no, no…no!”, his last words while disappearing into the void from Valdi’s sight. Not even time for Valdi to grab the 
  tent and hold the fall. Shocked, he assesses the situation for a few minutes. He thinks to abseil on Simone’s line of fall. The wind and the spindrift and the exposure deemed the situation much too dangerous to do it. He needed now to descend to Camp 2. The snow buried fixed ropes and the impossible snowstorm made this a six hour ordeal, instead of the usual one hour and a half descent. He informed the four Spanish climbers he encountered into Camp 2 about the accident and two of them confirmed him they passed the information about the accident to their base camp. The night passed and now we encountered Valdi in Camp 1. Visibly shaken, he recalled us the story. 

  Now, realistically, the chances of being alive in such a situation are very marginal but in the same time there are really some miraculous cases of survival in the history of Himalayan climbing. We could not take the death of Simone as a given. We must do everything in our power till we’ll rescue him or find evidence of his passing. And now time was critical, since the weather pattern for the last three weeks was fog and snow after 12 pm, invariably. It took us around 15 minutes from finding about Simone’s accident to calling for a helicopter mission. Unlike anytime, I left my satellite phone in the base camp. Pawel called our expedition organizer and asked him to provide us with a certain phone number. I used my longtime contacts in Nepal and we got the heli into the air, leaving from Kathmandu, within another 15 minutes. A total of 30 minutes from finding about the accident. My friends, the brothers Dawa and Mingma Sherpa, owners of Seven Summit Treks and of air transport company immediately came to help. And Mingma was flying personally towards us. In the meantime we called Paola, Simone’s wife, informed her about the accident and asked her to coordinate from Italy with the insurance company as well as also keeping the contact with the heli guys. Bad weather closed in and the helicopter had to overnight in Italian Base Camp. A long, sleepless and tense night for Pawel and myself in Camp 1, waiting, waiting. Keeping also regular satellite contact with Mingma, Dawa and Paola.

  30 April: The plan is that at 6 o’clock the next morning, the heli is to pick me up (in the meantime I also prepared a long-line rescue system) from Camp 1 and to begin the search from Simone’s last known GPS point (given to us by Paola) and from there to follow the fall line till we’ll hopefully find him. When the hour came, for the first time in the last weeks the weather was not clear in the morning, the first damn morning with poor visibility and certainly no flying conditions. We kept the connection with Mingma and when the visibility got a bit better we heard the roar of the heli. I anxiously climbed up above Camp 1, to the designated place where the heli was supposed to hover above the snow and pick me up. But the heli changed direction and went directly for the face and started patrolling the huge slopes. I tried not to get too concerned and thought maybe it was some last-minute thing that I was not aware of; everything happens so fast in the maddness of these situations. After some minutes, we saw the heli in the distance, multiple circling and then insistently hovering over a certain spot. We saw two tiny black spots (I later found to be Mike Sherpa and Mingma Sherpa, another Mingma from the heli owner), barely visible, jumping from the heli and recovering what appeared to be a long, „massive thing”. Then the heli speedingly went to the direction of the base camp. For some moments I thought they found Simone and that was it. I couldn’t estabish satellite contact with Mingma to confirm. Minutes later we again saw the heli returning, this time searching on the obviously wrong part of the mountain and then I really started to get anxious and stressed by the fact we will uselessly use the scarce fuel in a wrong way. I finally re-establish contact with Mingma and asked him to recall the heli, refuel and follow by the book the initial agreed plan. I finally got the heli hovering but cynically I could not open the door to jump in. Due to the super dry air of the altitude and the rotation of the blades, the metal was charged with electricity. It took me what felt like a tremendous amount of time to get myself in. I directed Captain Nishal towards the spot on the ridge where Simone was last recorded, clouds closing in at that altitude of almost 7000m (a height that was challanging the capabilities of the machine). We flew so close to the wall I was nervously repeating him to take care. From up there we started to slowly descend in circles on the suposed fall line. At around 6000m in a crevassed area we saw some small red object, then, further, something that appeared to be part of Simone’ suit. Nishal hovered me above, I reluctantly jumped out, he backed off and I could dig out what was indeed proved out to be his suit, but nothing to be found of Simone. We resumed the search and Nishal asked me to check one specific black spot barely visible from he snow. It was under an immense serac, in its releasing zone, ladden with debris. Approaching and focusing on it we realised it was Simone. I open the door and took some documentary photos for the family. I could make out his boots and part of his torso. We agreed to return to base camp to refuel, regroup and decide on our further line of action. Down there I called Paola to advise. The place of Simone’s location was among the most dangerous I have been from the rescuer’s point of view. And still, now it could be no further rescue, maximum a body recovery. She asked that I give her an hour to further speak with the parents. I replied that she only had five minutes for this. In the meantime together with Mingma and Nishal we evaluated the risks for Nishal, myself and the helicopter. The weather was closing in. Not waiting for Paola’s reply we returned to the place. It was Simone after all. With Nishal and myself came along Mingma Sherpa, the same one that was in the first morning flight. We brought along a shovel and an ice axe and decided against using the rope he was proposing to take down with us because of the risk of it meddling with the heli’s blades. Nishal was not comfortable with the long-line idea either and preferred we pulled the body into the heli together with one of us, then return afterwards for the second. Not enough safety margin for all of us to get in at the same time. To operate at that altitude the heli was also completely emptied of everything but the pilot’s chair. After a little guessing we again reached the place. We jumped off the heli and Nishal backed off in order to allow us to dig out my friend. Doing this, I rediscovered praying. The serac above was so unstable and threatening that I was saying to myself, „please God, not now”. Also, the turbulence produced by the heli was adding to the risk of some chunk of ice collapsing over the blades and making everything finish within seconds. It took us an enormous ammount of energy to get Simone out of the ice and snow imprisoning him. Moments of such a high emotional charge and such a sight and intimate experience and actions on the spot that I could not dare try put or express in writing. We called in the heli. Nishal was hovering on the sleep slope, one meter and something above the ground. The blades of the heli were surrounding us in spindrift. Mingma and myself tried multiple times to get Simone into the heli. It was a hellish effort and it was in vain. We simply did not have the power to do it. With moments passing, the situation was becoming desperate. The risk of the serac releasing because of heli turbulence getting bigger and becoming unacceptable. This was a dead end. I had to fast think of something else. I got myself out from under the heli and signal to Nishal to back off. He did it and it was again only the three of us: Mingma, Simone and myself. Mingma’s harness was at my eye level. I took from it a piece of cordelette and a locking carbiner, tied it to Simone’s harness and make the sign to Nishal to re-approach. Tied Simone to the heli’s landing gear and off they went. Again, the silence. Only Mingma and myself left now. Reality struck and Mingma almost begged me (of which I was thankful) to get the hell out of there and try to find a safer place to wait for the helicopter. We start descending a bit diagonally, trying to be out of sight of the serac releasing firing line. But not quite. While I took my breath and confirming to Pawel over radio about the development, Mingma also found Simone’s tent together with a piece of rope used for route fixing. Finally, Nishal arrived to pick us up and after another hair-raising hovering above we, exhausted, got into the heli. After a steep and short descent we all landed into the base camp. 

  Staring now dumbly to the computer screen in our base camp tent. Towering above me, 3.6km on the vertical, the mighty summit of Dhaulagiri.

  Simone knew what he was doing and loved the mountains dearly. They give him energy. They gave him a framework in his search for meaning. They filled him with Life. 
  As always, Mountain is Mountain and its sovereignity is Absolute. 

  PS: Strangely enough, by the time Pawel and myself sounded the alarm, nobody in the base camp acted in any way, even though the information was known from the night of April 28th. Looking retrospectively, nothing would have been changed in the faith of Simone. Just the search and rescue operation would have been possible one day earlier, on April 29th, and my faith in humanity would have gone even stronger.


expid: DHEC18101
peakid: DHEC
year: 2018
route1: S Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Wolfgang Drexler
sponsor: Austrian/German Dhechyan Khang Expedition 2018
ascent1: 1st
countries: Germany
approach: Jomsom by air->Chusang by Jeep->Tange->Damodar Kunda->BC
bcdate: 2018-05-03
smtdate: 2018-05-05
smttime: 1115
termdate: 2018-05-06
othersmts: Summited Saribung on 8 May and Nagoru Far East on 15 May (1st ascent)
campsites: BC(03/05,5300m),Smt(05/05)
agency: Langtang Ri Trekking
routememo:
  Approach: Flight to Jomson, Jeep to Chhusang, Tangye, Te Khola, Ghara, Ghuma Thanti, Parsye Khola, Damodar Kunda (5000m).

  BC  03/05  5300m (Bhrikuti Shail BC)
  Smt 05/05  by Drexler, Thallmair, Lawang Tamang, Yokachi Tamang at 11:15 am.

  The trek took about six days. They set up their BC at Bhrikuti Shail BC. On 05/05, they left BC at 5:44 am. From BC they went towards the east and then climbed up the Thapulgnocha La (5328m) and stayed on the ridge that is right at the border with China.

  The route was easy. No technical challenges. Compact rocks. Good to walk. It is more of a hike than a climb. They spent about half an hour on the summit and descended to BC, where they arrived at 3:15 pm.

  On 06/05 they packed up their BC and went to Saribung BC (straight south). They climbed Saribung on 08/05.

  Nagoru Far-East (1st Ascent)

  BC  11/05  4900m (Nagoru Yak Kharka)
  ABC 13/05  5100m
  Smt 15/05  by Drexler, Thallmair, Lawang Tamang at 11:40 am

  Route: South Couloirs/West Ridge

  On 12/05 they did a recce and found their ABC, on a point where two rivers merge. On 13/05 they set up their ABC. On 14/05 it snowed all day, so they were not able to move. On 15/05 they left ABC at 6:10 am. They reached a couloir at 9:35 at 5400m, which would be rocky in dry weather, but it was covered in about 20cm. When they got out of the couloir at about 5700m they reached a ridge, which lead to the glacier left of them. They reached blue ice, where they roped up and put in a few anchors.

  They stayed about 10 minutes on the summit as the weather closed in. They were down-climbing and thought it would have been better to have two ice axes for the descent. They reached ABC at 2:30 pm, where they stayed the night.

  Additional information:

  Key to Nagoru Far-East is the ABC, which is located in the northeast of Nagoru Yak Kharka, the big Yak grazing zone at 4900m high above the ruins of the former village of Nagoru.

  At Yak Kharka one turns to the east and circumvents the lower slopes of Nagoru East without descending to arrive at another "Kharka" (some stone ruins there, but today almost no water). Here one heads to the northeast, slightly ascending to the edge of the plains, where Nagoru Far-East becomes fully visible for the first time. Then you cross two small side valleys and a steep ascent to the north will bring you to a small saddle which hides a perfect ABC at the other side and close to a small river at 5100m.

  After summiting Nagoru Far East, the team left ABC on 16/05 and descended to Phu.

  Hired:
    Lawang Lama Tamang, Ramche-2, 28/03/1978
    Yokachi Tamang, Rasuwa, 27/04/1992


expid: EVER18101
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Sherpa Rope-Fixing
sponsor: Sherpa Rope-Fixing Everest South 2018
bcdate: 2018-04-10
smtdate: 2018-05-13
smttime: 1530
campsites: Smt(13/05)
routememo:
  Rope-fixing summiters:

  From Himalayan Guides:
    Tenzing Gyaljen Sherpa
    Datuk Bhote Lama
    Siddi Bahadur Tamang
    Lakpa Dendi Sherpa
    Pasang Tenjing Sherpa
    Jen Jen Lama Bhote
    Pasdawa Sherpa
    Pemba Chhiri Sherpa


  From The Himalayan Times (13 May 2018):

  KATHMANDU: A rope-fixing team of climbing Sherpas reached the summit of Mt Everest this afternoon becoming the season’s first team to scale the world’s highest peak from Nepal side, according to the expedition organiser.

  According to Iswari Paudel, Managing Director at Himalayan Guides Nepal (HGN) Pvt Ltd, climbing Sherpas include Pasang Tenjing Sherpa, Pasdawa Sherpa, Lakpa Dendi Sherpa, Jen Jen Lama, Siddi Bahadur Tamang, Pemba Chhiri Sherpa, Tenzing Gyaljen Sherpa and Datuk Bhote scaled the mountain by opening a route to the summit point at around 3:30 pm.

  The eight-member guide team comprising local Sherpas had reached the south summit at around 8:00 am. “Now, more than 240 climbers along with their high altitude workers can make their summit pushes on Mt Everest after the rope fixing team opened the route,” he said.

  Expedition Operator Association Nepal has assigned HGN to fix the ropes on Mt Everest this season. Sherpas, who left for Camp IV two days ago, struggled hard to open the summit route as bad weather had caused a delay to proceed with rope fixing work last week, Paudel added.


expid: EVER18102
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Dawa Steven Sherpa
sponsor: Asian Trekking Eco-Everest Expedition 2018
countries: Denmark, India, Mexico, Nepal, S Africa
bcdate: 2018-04-14
smtdate: 2018-05-19
smttime: 0832
termdate: 2018-05-23
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(19-21/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  The Asian Trekking Eco-Everest expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Asian Trekking provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  David Liano (Mexico)

  Appr:  Everest BC by heli from Kangchenjunga
  Camps: BC(17/05,5350m),C2(18/05,6400m),C4(19/05,7900m),Smt(20/05)
  Left:  22/05/2018
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success (5:58 am)

  Team reached C4 at 1 pm on 19/05 and they left C4 again 10:45 pm. Route was busy with the big border security forces ahead of them. They passed about 40 people. When they reached the summit, there was only one other person up there. 			
  They spent 45 minutes on the summit. Descended to C4 where they arrived at 8:30 am. They spent the night at C4 as Liano had planned to go to Lhotse. However, on his way up he was hit by a chunk of ice in his right eye, which caused him some problems. His eye did not get better and then he abandoned the idea of going to Lhotse. On 21/05 Pasang Rita and Liano descended to BC. They started at 9 am and arrived at 6 pm.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Pasang Rita and Liano.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Rita, Thami, 01/07/1977


  Amit Kumar (India)
  Navdeep Bittu (India)

  Appr:  Lukla->Everest BC  (Lobuche East on 19 Apr)
  Camps: BC(14/04,5300m),C1(21/04,5900m),C2(21/04,6400m),C3(19/05,7300m),
         C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(21/05)
  Left:  23/05/2018
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success (7:57 am, 8:08 am, 8:10 am, 9:31 am)

  Members who left bc prior to the end of the expedition:

  Swati Verma high point in Icefall, at c5700m – "slow and not technically skilled enough" according to Kumar, left BC before others. His Sherpa didn't go for summit afterwards, same high point altitude.

  Pranay Disneshbhai Damor high point at C2 - during first rotation, contracted a pulmonary edema, went back to Ktmdu for treatment, then came back to BC, then again at C1, went down, staying ill at BC, so definitely left BC before others. His Sherpa didn't go on top, same high point altitude. 

  Members who summited:
    Manisha Jayakrishna Waghmare – on 21st at 8:10 am 
    Amit Kumar – on 21st at 7:57 am
    Sandeep Mansukhani -  on 21st at 7:57 am
    Navdee Bittu – on 21st at 8:08 am
    Sandeep Toliya – on 21st at 7:57 am
    Swarnalata Dalai – on 21st at 8:10 am
    Poonam – on 21st at 9:31 am

  Sherpas summiters (in same order): 
    Dawa Chiring Bhote - 8:10 am
    Sonam Chiring Sherpa - 7:57 am
    Tshering Tashi Sherpa - 7:57 am
    Pemba Tsering Lama - 8:08 am
    Ang Furba Sherpa - 7:57 am
    Pem Dorjee Sherpa - 8:10 am
    Ngawang Chhongba - 9:31 am

  Navdeep Bittu and Amit Kumar went back to C2 on 21st, then on 22nd to C2 and Ktmdu by helicopter. Kumar had become snowblind, due to his oxygen mask fogging his glasses; Navdeep Bittu accompanied with him for helping.

  Rest of the team went back to BC on the 22nd (2 Sandeep's + Poonam), except Manisha and Swarlata who reached BC on the 23rd. 

  Navdeep Bittu provided clear summit pictures. 

  Oxygen: Taken and used from 6800m


  Jakob Urth (Denmark)

  Appr:  Lukla->Everest BC
  Camps: BC(21/04,5300m),C1(28/04,5900m),C2(29/04,6480m),C3(06/05,7200m),
         C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(19/05)
  Left:  22/05/2018
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success (8:32 am)

  On 18th of May, Urth started at 8 pm from C4. On 19th of May, summited at 8:32 am, back to C4 at about 3/4 pm. 2 Sherpas following, caring for him, one of them filming: 

    Lakpa Rinji Sherpa
    Nima Kanchha Sherpa

  On 20th of May down to C2, had heli-rescue flight to BC. At C2, talked with the expedition doctor (Ben Clock) about one of his fingers. As the doctor was afraid about some risk of frostbite, him asked him to stop waiting for heli-rescue. Urth comment: "Maybe a little bit too much, no need." On 21st stayed at BC all day. On 22nd flew from BC to Ktmdu.

  Oxygen: Taken from 8650m to top, down to South Summit.


  Carsten Pedersen (Denmark)

  Appr:  Lukla->Everest BC
  Camps: BC(30/04,5300m),C1(06/05,6050m),C2(07/05,6480m),xxx(11/05,7000m)
  Left:  23/05/2018
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 7000m due to coughing attacks in Icefall

  High point on 11/05 at 7000m on Lhotse Face Carsten Pedersen and Lhakpa Sherpa. Pedersen went back down to base camp after he had reached his high point of 7000m. 

  As he was starting for his summit push on 21/05 with his Sherpa, he abandoned in the Icefall due to repetitive cough attacks. Back to BC on that day, expedition finished. 

  Sherpa:
    Lakpa Nuru Sherpa, Jubing-1, 1990/05/18 (Everest x1)


  Sibusiso Vilane (S Africa)

  Appr:  Lukla->Everest BC
  Camps: BC(14/04,5300m),C1(24/04,6000m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(04/05,7000m),
         C4(20-21/05,7900m),xxx
  Left:  23/05/2018
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 7000m due to altitude effects, since he was coughing a lot,
         struggling with it taking his energy away; so decided not to go up there, 
         as he needed to be 100% for pushing himself.

  Slept at C4 on 20/05 and 21/05. During way up to C4 from C3 and during the night, coughing a lot, decided not to continue without oxygen. On 20-21/05, all way down to BC, from 3 am at C4 to 6 pm at BC; at C2, felt very tired and wanted to stay, but Sherpa pushed him to continue.  

  Oxygen: Not used, not taken

  Sherpa:
    Phurba Gyalzen


expid: EVER18104
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Sanjay K. Gunjyal
sponsor: Uttarakhand State Police Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-18
smtdate: 2018-05-20
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2018-05-23
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East (all members)
campsites: BC(18/04,5300m),C1(08/05,5900m),C2(09/05,6400m),C3(18/05,7300m),C4(19/05,7900m),Smt(20-21/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  18/04  5300m
  C1  08/05  5900m
  C2  09/05  6400m
  C3  18/05  7300m
  C4  19/05  7900m
  Smt 20/05
  Smt 21/05

  Members:
    Sanjay Kumar Gunjyal to C3 on 10/05 (leader at BC, supervising)
    Suryakant Uniyal on 20/05 summited at 8 am
    Roshan Kothari on 20/05, up to Balcony, had regulator problem, 
      same day back to BC
    Yogesh Singh on 20/05 summited at 8 am
    Praveen Singh on 20/05 summited at 8 am
    Manoj Kumar Joshi on 20/05 summited at 8 am
    Sanjay Kumar Upreti on 21/05 summited at 8:30 am
    Sushil Kumar to C2 on 18/05. Tried for summit, dehydration problems, abandonned
    Vijendra Kuriyal on 20/05 summited at 8 am
    Virendra Prasad on 21/05 summited at 8:30 am
    Ravi Chauhan on 21/05 summited at 8:30 am
    Navneet Singh on 21/05 at Balcony, no extra regulator, which was missing, so
      abandoned

    Oxygen: Taken from C2-C3 (in between) to summit to C2; O2 sleeping at C3 & C4

  Sherpas (11) 
    Oxygen from C4 to summit C2
    Sonam Phinjo Sherpa didn't climb with O2


expid: EVER18105
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Alyssa Azar
sponsor: Asian Trekking International Everest Expedition Tibet 2018
countries: France
approach: By road to Tingri, then to BC
bcdate: 2018-04-17
smtdate: 2018-05-19
smttime: 0500
termdate: 2018-05-23
campsites: BC(17/04,5300m),ABC(23/04,6400m),C1(02/05,7000m),C2(17/05,7700m),C3(18/05,8200m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Alyssa Azar Notes:

  BC  17/04  5300m
  ABC 23/04  6400m
  C1  02/05  7000m
  C2  17/05  7700m
  C3  18/05  8200m
  Smt 19/05  by Alyssa Azar and Nawang Tenzing Sherpa at 5 am.

  Oxygen: (on smt push) taken from C1 to smt to C1, used sleeping at C2, C3

  On 18/05 Azar started at 8 pm from C3, summited at 5 am on 19/05, back to C3 at 9 am, then all way down to ABC at 5 pm. 21/05 from  ABC to BC.

  1 Sherpa with her all way long during the summit push (taking oxygen same in the same way). 

  On summit Azar and her Sherpa were with Michel Viso, Stephane Marc and their two Sherpas.

  Left BC on 23/05.


  Marc and Viso Notes:

  BC  17/04  5200m
  ABC 26/04  6300m
  C1  02/05  7000m
  C2  17/05  7750m
  C3  18/05  8200m
  Smt 19/05  by Stephane and Michel plus their 2 Sherpas.

  Oxygen: from N Col to summit, down to (Michel C3) (Stephane C1), used for sleeping.

  Started from C3 on 18/05 at 8 pm, summited on 19 May at 5 am, back to ABC on same day (Stephane at 5 pm, Michel at 8:30 pm). 20 May rest day. 21/05 both back to BC.  22/05 rest day. On 23/05 from BC to KTM in 4x4 vehicle.

  Sherpas: 
    Dafuri Sherpa (Michel)
    Pasang Sherpa (Stephane)


expid: EVER18106
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Robert Smith
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Everest Expedition 2018
countries: Australia, Canada, Ireland, USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-13
smtdate: 2018-05-19
smttime: 0400
termdate: 2018-05-26
campsites: BC(13/04,5350m),C1(22/04,5900m),C2(24/04,6440m),C3(17/05,7000m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  13/04  5350m
  C1  22/04  5900m
  C2  24/04  6440m
  C3  17/05  7000m
  C4  18/05  7900m
  Smt 19/05  by Bradey, Read, Horn, Rinji Sherpa, Cheten Dorje at 4 am, Ervin,
             Webster, Moore, Chhiring Namgyal, Dawa Wongchu and Chhewang Dorjee at
             5:55 am, Smith, Davies, Rinji Palden, Guru Bhote, Pemba Nuru, 
             Pasang Angju, Pemba and Mingma Tenjing at 6:58 am.

  Members left C4 at 9:30 pm, Smith left at 10 pm on 18/05. When they left it was perfect and calm. Winds picked up at around the South Summit (about 40 knots). Straightfoward climb. They spent about 10 minutes on the summit as it was very windy. Smith descended with Davies and when they reached the South Summit, Davies said that he could not see. He told Smith that he had not drunk any liquid for 12 hours. Smith gave him Dex and helped him descend, where they arrived at about 2 pm. The rest of the team also descended to C4, where they arrived at 10 am.

  On 20/05 his vision had returned and Bradey helped him down the Lhotse Face. Rest of the team also down to C2 on 20/05. 

  Davies was heli-vaced from C2 on 21/05 due to his eye problems.

  On 21/05 everyone back down at BC.

  Bernard Masnyk reached 5450m on 16/04. He told Ang Dorje who was guiding him that this was his limit as he was 73 years old. He left the expedition on 19/04 by helicopter. Masnyk was a private client of Chuldim Dorje.

  Chuldim Dorje (Ang Dorje) reached 6969m on the bottom of the Lhotse Face on the previous acclimatization. He damaged his ankle between C1 and C2 when an avalanche came down the West Shoulder on 29/04 and abandoned the expedition. He was rescued from C1 and was flown straight to Kathmandu.

  Trott never made it to BC. She fell into a hole in a lodge in Kumjung and injured her knee on 06/04. She was flown back to Kathmandu at around 07/04.

  Sherpas:
    Rinji Palden, Pare, Khumbu, 04/11/1998 
    Pemba Nuru, Pangboche, 29/05/1995
    Mingma Tenjing Sherpa, Khumjung, 07/05/1993
    Rinji Sherpa, Gorakhani-5, 26/07/1975
    Chhewang Dorje, Pangboche, 17/04/1981
    Chuldim Dorje (Ang Dorje), Pangboche, 25/11/1964
    Chheten Dorje, Pangboche, 28/05/1987
    Chhiring Namgyal/Namgel, Pangboche,20/08/1991
    Dawa Wongchu, Pangboche, 22/02/1994
    Guru Bhote, Sankhuwasabha (1st Summit)
    Pasang Angju, Sankhuwasabha
    Pemba Sherpa, Taksindu (1st summit)

  Note: Two additional Sherpas summited at 6:58 am based on information from Adv Cons website:
    Kalzang Dorje, Pangboche
    Phura Dorje, Gudel-4
  	
  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members
    From 6700m (bottom of Lhotse face) to top and back by Webster, Ervin and Moore. 
    Sherpas from C4 to top to C4.


expid: EVER18107
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Guy Cotter
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2018
countries: Singapore
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-03-30
smtdate: 2018-05-16
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2018-05-26
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-181-02)
campsites: BC(30/03,5350m),C1(20/04,5900m),C2(22/04,6440m),C3(14/05,7000m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  30/03  5350m
  C1  20/04  5900m
  C2  22/04  6440m
  C3  14/05  7000m
  C4  15/05  7900m
  Smt 16/05  by Cotter and Leow Kah Shin, Nima Tshering, Pasang Bhote, Prakash
             (Pemba) Sherpa at 8 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 9:30 pm on 15/05. Big queues of Indian and Chinese. Straightforward climb. They spent about 45 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 1:15 pm. At 2 am on 17/05 Cotter, Leow Kah Sin and Pasang Bhote and Dawa Bhote left C4 at 2 am, traversed to Lhotse C4 and up to Lhotse.

  Lhotse Smt: 17/05 by Cotter, Leow Kah Shin, Pasang Bhote, Dawa Bhote at 8 am.

  They descended to C2, where they arrived at 4:15 pm.

  Nuptse Attempt:
  C3  01/05  6830m
  HPt 02/05  7650m by Cotter, Leow Kah Shin, Nima Tsering, Prakash and Pasang Bhote.

  Fixed rope: 2200m in total

  Rope was fixed by 4 AC Sherpas (Lhotse Nima, Prakash, Dawa and Pasang Bhote). 600m between C2 and C3 and two linked-up ladders. Around 1600m of rope on the face.

  Team left C3 at 1 am. At around 7300m at sunrise 5 am wind picked up. They grouped up with Jon Gupta's and Tim Mosedale's teams at 7400m, discussed and carried on. They reached their high point at about 9:30 am and the fixing team said it would be too avalanche prone higher up. They descended to C3, packed up and reached C2 at 6:15 pm.

  Oxygen: C3 to high point to C3 by members and Sherpas

  Sherpas:
    Nima Tshering, Phortse, 22/04/1972
    Pasang Bhote, Chepuwa-1, Makalu-Barun, 30/11/1973
    Dawa Bhote, Hatiya-3, Makalu-Barun, 14/02/1991
    Pemba Prakash  Pawai-1 11/04/1992


expid: EVER18108
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Garrett Madison
sponsor: Madison Mountaineering Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2018
countries: S Africa, UK
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-12
smtdate: 2018-05-18
smttime: 0500
termdate: 2018-05-21
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-181-03)
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),C1(19/04,5900m),C2(21/04,6400m),C3(16/05,7000m),C4(17/05,7900m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  12/04  5350m
  C1  19/04  5900m
  C2  21/04  6400m
  C3  16/05  7000m
  C4  17/05  7900m
  Smt 18/05  by Madison, Miller and Luskey with Siddi Bahadur Tamang, Mingmar and
             Ang Phurba at 5 am, Bliss, Kernan, Blanchard, Landman and Pattison with
             Pasang Tenzing, Pasdawa, Lakpa Dendi, Mingma Sona and Sher Bahadur
             Thapa Magar at 6:35 am.

  Blanchard, Landman and Pattison left C4 at 7 pm on 17/05, the rest of the summit team left at 9 pm on 17/05. There must have been about 100 people on the route. Best conditions on the mountain Madison had ever seen on Everest. There is a huge cornice right on the top of Everest now. As they were so early some of them had to stop at the South Summit 3 am to kill some time. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at around 9:30 am. 

  Lhotse Summit: 19/05 by Madison, Miller, Mingmar at 9 am.

  Lhotse summiters left C4 on Everest at 3:30 am. They changed oxygen at Lhotse C4 and continued to the summit. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to C2.

  Everyone (Everest and Lhotse summiters) at C2 on 19/05.

  Palmer reached C1 on first rotation. He had a bad cough and left the expedition at the beginning of May.

  Oosthuizen made it half way through the Icefall, but his mind was not in it and left the expedition at the end of April.

  Regulator issue: Madison also had 8 regulators (Summit Elite Model) on or near the summit. Fortunately they had heard about regulator failure issue beforehand and were well prepared and took [precautions].

  Left BC on 21/05 by heli.

  Fixed rope: 6000m
  	
  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C2 to top to C2 by members
    From C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.

  Sherpas: 
    Siddhi Bahadur Tamang (1st Group)
    Mingma Sherpa (1st Group)
    Ang Phurba Sherpa (1st Group)
    Pasang Tenzing Sherpa (2nd Group)
    Pas Dawa Sherpa (2nd Group)
    Lakpa Dendi Sherpa (2nd Group)
    Sher Bahadur Thapa Magar (2nd Group)
    Mingma Shona Sherpa (2nd Group)

  Ministry and HG add Asta Bahadur Rai at 6:35 am.


expid: EVER18109
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Ed Wardle
sponsor: British Everest Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-16
smtdate: 2018-05-14
smttime: 0850
termdate: 2018-05-17
campsites: BC(16/04,5350m),C1(21/04,5900m),C2(10/05,6400m),C3(12/05,700),C4(13/05,7900m),Smt(14/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  16/04  5350m
  C1  21/04  5900m
  C2  10/05  6400m
  C3  12/05  7000m
  C4  13/04  7900m
  Smt 14/04  by Wardle, Middleton, Dawa Phinjo, Phurba Ridar, Sangbu, 
             Kul Bahadur Tapa Magar at 8:50 am.

  Team left C4 at 10:30 am. Weather was calm. Straightforward climb. When they reached the summit the winds picked up. They stayed about 15 minutes on the summit. Wardle thinks about 60 knots. Panic and chaos as people's goggles were freezing up. About 30 people on top of the Hillary Step. They had to wait for about 2 hours.

  Team got split up with Dawa, Sangbu and Anthony being together. Wardle, Kul Bahadur and Phurba reached C4 at around 2 pm; Middleton, Dawa Phinjo and Sangbu reached C4 at 5 pm.

  On 15/05 descent to C2. 16/05 to BC. Left BC on 17/05 by heli.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Finjo Lama Bhote, Hungung, Makalu, 05/09/88
    Sangbu Lama Bhote, Hungung, Makalu, 30/04/89
    Phurba Ridar Bhote, Hatiya-1, 1958
    Kul Bahadur Thapa Magar, Taluwa-9, Okhaldhunga, 31/07/70
  	
  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members
    From C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.


expid: EVER18110
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Tim Mosedale
sponsor: Tim Mosedale's Everest-Lhotse-Nuptse Expedition 2018
countries: Australia, Ireland, Macedonia
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-14
smtdate: 2018-05-17
smttime: 0840
termdate: 2018-05-22
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-181-04); attempted Nuptse (NUPT-181-01)
campsites: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(21/04,5900m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3(13/05,7000m),C4(16/05,7900m),Smt(17-18/05)
accidents: Petkov died of probable heart attack
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  14/04  5350m
  C1  21/04  5900m
  C2  23/04  6400m
  C3  13/05  7000m
  C4  16/05  7900m
  Smt 17/05  by Booth, Jones-Warner, Chayang Jyalbu, and Darche Bhote [at 8:40 am]
  		   by 18/05 by McDonald, McNally, Chhebi Bhote, Gyan Bahadur, 
             Pimba Bhote at 5:30 am?

  Lhotse Smt: 18/05 by Booth at 5:30 am.

  17/05 left C4 at around 9 pm. They spent about an hour on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at about 10:30 am.

  Jones-Warner and Jabbu stayed the night and Booth stayed until midnight and continued to climb Lhotse. Booth reached the Lhotse summit on 18/05 at 5:30 am, then descended to C2 from Lhotse summit, while Jones-Warner, Jyalbu and Dharche descended to C2 from C4 on 18/05.

  18/05 summit team left C4 at around 9 pm. Weather clear and calm. They stayed about half an hour on the summit. McDonald and Chhebi descended to C3, where he stayed the night. McNally stayed at C4 unaccompanied (disobeying orders from the leader to descend). Gyan and Pemba descended to C2.

  Mosedale reached C4 with Pemba Dorje (Pangboche) on 20/05. He had ascended with Petkov from C2 to C3 19/05. They spent a night at C3. Mosedale left C3 at 6:30 am with Pemba, Petkov left at 7 am with Chhebbi. When Mosedale reached C4 at about 11 am, settled down his tent and climbed the little hill northeast of the South Col. He returned to the South Col at about 2 pm and received a radio call from Kami Sherpa at BC telling him Petkov had died at about 7500m between the Yellow Band and upper C3. According to Chhebi Sherpa when they had left C3, Petkov was slow and tired and then they decided to turn around. He still had 50bar in his oxygen bottle and he probably died of a heart attack on his descent back to C3.

  Mosedale and Pemba descended to Petkov and lowered the body to upper C3. They descended further down to their tent at C3, stayed the night and on 21/05 went back up to collect body and descended to lower C3 at 7100m from where the body was long-lined off. They descended to C2 stayed the night and everyone down at BC on 22/05.

  Lemaire reached C2 on 19/05. He reached the bottom of the Lhotse Face and turned back due to diarrhea.

  Everest North Side:

  Jones-Warner spent one night in Kathmandu on 19/05 and left for Lhasa on 20/05. He was planning on climbing Everest from the north side. He only reached up to the North Col, but there was no oxygen at the North Col so he abandoned the climb.

  Jones-Warner by email 28/05/2018:

  "Summited south 17 may 8:40 and arrived back down at bc on the 18th. I flew from BC morning of the 19th to KTM.

  I then left KTM morning of the 20th and flew to Lhasa arriving midday. Then drove arriving on North BC evening of the 21st.

  Me, Nima and Kami left BC on the 22nd and went to ABC. First thing on the 23rd we left ABC to go to 8300m. When we got to the North Col we realised there was no oxygen, presumed stolen. Once we had found out the oxygen was missing, we descended straight back down to base camp. We didn't stay or hang around. Then following day left to come back to KTM.

  The aim was to summit morning 24th as the weather closed in on the 25th. Had I been successful it would have been 2 summits in a week!"


  Nuptse Attempt (same as Jon Gupta)

  C3  01/05  6830m
  HPt 02/05  7650m

  Rope was fixed by AC Sherpas. Mosedale, Booth, Chhebi and Pemba Dorje together with Plain and Gupta left C3 at 2 am. Weather was good. At around 7300m at sunrise 5 am wind picked up. They grouped up with Guy Cotter and his group at 7400m, discussed and carried on. They reached their high point at about 9:30 am and the fixing team said it would be too avalanche-prone higher up. They descended to C3, packed up and reached C2 at 5:30 pm.

  Left BC on 22/05 by heli.
  	
  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members
    From C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Chayang Jyalbu, Hatiya-1, 29/10/79
    Dharche Bhote, Hatiya-2
    Chhebi Bhote, Hatiya-1 (camp cook)
    Gyan Bahadur Tamang, Rampur-8, 15/03/74
    Pimba Bhote, Hatiya-1, 17/06/71


expid: EVER18111
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Jon Gupta
sponsor: Mountain Expeditions Project 7in4 Expedition 2018
countries: Australia
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-18
smtdate: 2018-05-14
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2018-05-17
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-181-05); attempted Nuptse (NUPT-181-02)
campsites: BC(18/04,5350m),C1(21/04,5900m),C2(22/04,6400m),C3(12/05,7000m),C4(13/05,7900m),Smt(14/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  18/04  5350m
  C1  21/04  5900m
  C2  22/04  6400m
  C3  12/05  7000m
  C4  13/05  7900m
  Smt 14/05  by Plain, Gupta, Pemba Dorje at 7:30 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 10:30 pm on 13/05. Weather was good and calm. They spent about 40 minutes on the summit and then descended to C4, where they arrived at 11 am.

  On 15/05 they left Everest C4 at 5 am and descended to Lhotse C4 (7700m), where they deposited their gear and went to climb Lhotse. They set out from Lhotse C4 at 6:30 am.

  Lhotse Smt 15/05 by Plain, Gupta at 12:30 pm.

  They spent about 2 minutes on the summit and descended to Lhotse C4, took it down and continued to BC, where they arrived at 9:30 pm. Rested at BC on 16/05.

  Left BC on 17/05 heli to Lukla.

  Everset-Lhotse Oxygen:
    From C3 to Everest top to Lhotse top to Lhotse C4 by Gupta and down to C2 by
      Plain.

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Dorje, Pangboche, 02/12/73


  Nuptse Attempt:

  C3  01/05  6830m
  HPt 02/05  7650m

  Rope was fixed by AC Sherpas. Plain and Gupta together with Mosedale, Booth, Chhebi and Pemba Dorje left C3 at 2 am. Weather was good. At around 7300m at sunrise 5 am wind picked up. They grouped up with Guy Cotter and his group at 7400m, discussed and carried on. They reached their high point at about 9:30 am and the fixing team said it would be too avalanche-prone higher up. They descended to C3, packed up and reached C2 at 5:30 pm.

  Nuptse Oxygen:
    From C3 to high point to C3 by Plain, Pemba Dorje, Mosedale
    From 7400m to high point to C3 by Gupta and Booth.


expid: EVER18112
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Victor Saunders
sponsor: ICE 8000 Everest Expedition 2018
countries: Brazil, France, Germany, Ireland
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-17
smtdate: 2018-05-16
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2018-05-23
campsites: BC(17/04,5350m),C1(21/04,5900m),C2(26/04,6350m),C3(14/05,7000m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(16-17,21/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  17/04  5350m
  C1  21/04  5900m
  C2  26/04  6350m
  C3  14/05  7000m
  C4  15/05  7900m
  Smt 16/05  by Romancini, Padawa, Dawa Jabu at 11:30 am
      17/05  by Wallace, Dorje Gyalgen at 6:30 am, Mueller-Zantop, Phurten Lama
             at 8:30 am, Rivers Bulkeley, Pasang Yila Sherpa at 8:45 am
      21/05  by Windridge, Tenjin Bhote at 4:30 am, Dupety, Dorje Gyalzen (again),
             Hynes and Padawa (again) at 5:30 am, Thierry, Chandra Rai at 7 am.

  This was the first summit wave of Todd's ICE 8000 expedition. All summiters arrived at the South Col on 15/05. They arrived very late. The two women were quite tired and decided to have an extra day at the South Col. Romancini, Padawa, Wallace and Dorje Gyalgen left C4 at 11:30 pm on 15/05. Wallace felt too tired and decided to stay with the two women, so he and Dorje Gyalgen turned back to C4. Romancini and Padawa carried on. The route was extremely busy that day. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 5:30 pm.

  17/05 summit team left C4 at 9:15 am on 16/05. Straightforward climb. Wallace was breaking trail for while. There were about 30 Chinese from the north side on the summit. Wallace and Dorje Gyalgen spent about one hour on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 11 am. They spent another night at the South Col as Wallace had a bit of trouble with his eyes.

  Mueller-Zantop and Rivers Bulkeley descended to C4, where they arrived at about 1 pm. On 18/05 everyone descended to C2. Wallace, Dorje Gyalgen, Rivers Bulkeley, Pasang Yila Sherpa continued to BC, Mueller-Zantop stayed at C2 for another night.

  21/05 summit team left C4 at 9 pm on 20/05. Straightforward climb. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit, then descended to C4, where they spent until midday and descended to C2, where they arrived between 6 pm and 8 pm.

  Everyone back at BC on 19/05.

  Saunders reached C2. He never intended to climb.

  Left BC on 23/05 by heli.
  		
  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C3.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Dawa (Padawa), Pangboche, 18/01/77
    Dawa Jabu Bhote, Hatiya-1
    Dorje Gyalzen, Pangboche, 16/07/72
    Phurten Lama (Dawa Phurten Bhote), Hatiya-3, 30/10/84
    Pasang Yila Sherpa, Pangboche, 01/03/78
    Tenjin Bhote, Hatiya-2,
    Chandra Shor Rai, Taksindu-9, 25/08/73


expid: EVER18113
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Kenton Cool
sponsor: Kenton Cool Everest Expedition 2018
countries: USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-20
smtdate: 2018-05-16
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2018-05-18
campsites: BC(20/04,5350m),C1(23/04,5900m),C2(24/04,6500m),C3(13/05,7000m),C4(14/05,7900m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Bc  20/04  5350m
  C1  23/04  5900m
  C2  24/04  6500m
  C3  13/05  7000m
  C4  14/05  7900m
  Smt 16/05  by Fogle, Cool, Fisher, Kami Dorje (Makalu) at 7:30 am.

  Summit team left C4 9:45 pm. Weather calm and clear. Lots of people on the route. They were stuck behind big Chinese teams on the way to the Balcony. At 8500m they experienced problems with their regulators. Three of them blew up. Fogle's failed at 8500m, Fisher's failed at 8600m and Fogle's spare failed at the Hillary Step again. Cool gave him his regulator and ascended without O2. He said he could definitely feel the effect of altitude as he was a lot slower.

  They spent about an hour on the summit. On the way down, Cool picked up a regulator from Guy Cotter and a mask from Tindu Sherpa. They stopped at C4, where they arrived at around noon. Continued to C2 at 2:30 pm and arrived there at 6:30 pm.

  Pendleton reached the bottom of the Lhotse Face at about 6700m on 24/04. Her oxygen saturation was very low, and was down to 28 at C2 in the middle of the night. They put her on oxygen immediately and the saturation was immediately up to 92. She descended to BC on oxygen. She left the expedition at the end of April.

  Left BC on 18/05 by heli.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members (Cool part way only)
    From C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.

  Sherpa:
    Kami Dorje Sherpa, Yaphu-9, Makalu Barun, 21/08/1994


expid: EVER18114
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: David Hamilton
sponsor: Jagged Globe Everest Expedition 2018
countries: Ireland, Norway, USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-08
smtdate: 2018-05-16
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2018-05-19
campsites: BC(08/04,5350m),C1(19/04,5900m),C2(24/04,6300m),C3(02/05,7100m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  08/04  5350m
  C1  19/04  5900m
  C2  24/04  6300m
  C3  02/05  7100m
  C4  15/05  7900m
  Smt 16/05  at midday, stayed for 30 mins.

  Nothing noteworthy on climb apart from weather, described by Hamilton as "unseasonably warm." Windless, good visibility.

  Team descended 16/05 to C4, stayed overnight. Arrived C2 on 17/05, to BC on 18/05.

  Mix of heli from EBC, trekking and one member still at BC with partner.

  Greenan left expedition after C3 due to illness and did not summit. It had been his second attempt after injury in 2015 earthquake.
  	
  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from 7300m to smt by all apart from Hamilton, who used from 8000m.
    Sherpas used from 8000m to smt.

  Sherpas:
    Ongdik Bhote, Hatiya-1
    Ang Ringi, Chankhu-6
    Mitra Bahadur Tamang, Beding
    Pem Chhiri, Chankhu-6


expid: EVER18115
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Jonathan Griffith
sponsor: Everest South-Lhotse Traverse 2018
countries: Nepal
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-16
smtdate: 2018-05-24
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2018-05-27
campsites: BC(16/04,5350m),C1(5900m),C2(23/04,6440m),C3(7000m),C4(14/05,7900m),Smt(24/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  16/04  5350m
  C1   --    5900m
  C2  23/04  6440m
  C3   --	   7000m
  C4  14/05 & 23/05  7900m
  Smt 24/05  by Lhakpa Dendi at 10 am, Tenji, Pimba and Griffith at 10:15 am.

  Team left C4 at 11 pm. It was very windy and Griffith was very worried about the wind. Straightforward climb. Tenji was very quick at the beginning and at about 8400m he hit the barrier and slowed down. Thunderstorm going on far away and weather was generally bad. When they reached the South Summit, Griffith started to be worried about Tenji and as he thought that the summit would be farther away than it actually was, they decided that Tenji should use oxygen. They continued to the summit and spent about 10 minutes on the summit.

  They descended to C2, where they arrived at between 5 pm and 8 pm. On 25/05, down to BC.

  Left BC on 27/05.

  The team did not attempt to traverse to Lhotse.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Dendi, Chheskam-2, Solu, 29/01/1988
    Tenji Sherpa, Sanam, Gudel-4, 07/03/1992
    Pimba Bhote, Hatiya-1, 17/06/71 (summited earlier with Tim Mosedale)

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C2 by Griffith
    From C4 to top to C2 by Pimba and Lhakpa Dendi
    From South Summit 8750m to top to C2 by Tenji


  From The Himalayan Times - 30 April 2019

  Tenjing (Tenji) Sherpa, who was on Mt Everest last year with the Swiss alpinist [Ueli Steck], also decided to attempt to climb Mt Everest without using supplemental oxygen. “I want to dedicate my climb to Ueli,” he told THT from the base camp. Tenji said he would climb Mt Everest and traverse to Mt Lhotse without using oxygen. French climber Jonathan Griffith, along with three more climbing Sherpas, has been filming Tenji’s climbing activities.


expid: EVER18116
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Seven Summit Treks
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks International Everest Expedition 2018
countries: Algeria, Australia, Bulgaria, Canada, India, Norway, Romania, Spain, UK, USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-11
smtdate: 2018-05-14
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2018-05-20
campsites: BC(11/04,5350m),C1(5900m),C2(6400m),C3(7000m),C4(7900m),Smt(14,16,19/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  The Seven Summit Treks Everest expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Seven Summit Treks provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Jose Alcalde (Spain)
  Pablo Tornil (Spain)

  Camps: BC(22/04,5350m),C1(25/04,6000m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(12/05,7100m),
         C4(13/05,7900m),xxx(14/05.8600m)
  Left:  16/05/2018 by heli to Namche
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Abandoned at 8600m due to cold feet of Tornil (slight frostbite on right 
         toe).

  High-point team of Alcalde, Tornil, Dawa and Mingma left C4 at 8:30 pm on 13/05. Not too busy. Perfect weather. Tornil had a very cold right foot and he decided to turn back due to it, so they descended from 8600m at about 12:30 am. Alcalde was happy to go down with him. They descended to C4 where they arrived at 3 am. They checked the foot and massaged it. They slept for about three hours and descended to C3, where they stayed for two hours in a tent that was not theirs, then continued to C2. The weather was very bad. They met Rustin (the Russian who died on Lhotse) between C2 and C3. They say he was coughing and very unwell, but he insisted on going up. They reached C2 at about noon. On 15/05 they arrived at BC.

  The Chinese woman (who is said to have died) was near them. She was super-exhausted apparently. She was apparently with Seven Summits.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to high point to C3 by members
    From C4 to high point to C4 by Sherpas

  Sherpas
    Dawa Sherpa
    Mingma Sherpa


  Javier Camacho (Spain)

  Camps: BC(20/04,5350m),C1(5900m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(27/04,7000m),
         C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(16/05)
  Left:  20/05/2018 by heli
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success (10 am)

  Camacho had gone down to Lukla to recover from his chest infection. When he heard that the weather was good, he left 12/05 by helicopter. On 13/05 he started his summit push from BC.

  Camacho and Jangbu left C4 at 9 pm. Straightforward climb on the way up. Many people on the route. They stayed about 15 minutes on the summit and started their descent. His glasses did not close completely below the eyes and he got a lot of wind through. He had had a chest infection, which did not help. On the way down, he started having problems with his eyes. He thinks it was conjunctivitis. He reached C4 around 4 pm.

  His eyes got worse and stuck together. He told Jangbu to contact SST as he was worried about his eyes. He took some medicine and his eyes improved. On 17/05 his eyes were a little bit better in the morning and he was able to descend to C2 on his own. On 18/05 he descended to BC. At BC he found his eye drops and it improved. The doctors at the HRA confirmed that he had conjunctivitis.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C4.

  Sherpa:
    Jangbu Sherpa


  Mathieu Durand (Canada)

  Camps: BC(5350m),C1(6100m),C2(6500m),xxx
  Left:  05/05/2018 by heli to Namche
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 6500m due to eye hemorrhage

  From Durand’s website (www.mathieudurand.com/blog)

  As planned, I went to Everest ER in the morning, and got cleared from a medical standpoint to climb the mountain again. So, I guess the stars got aligned for me somewhere. I spent that day resting, preparing my backpack again to go up for my last rotation before our summit attempt. The goal was to reach camp 3.

  As a fourth time in the icefall, it was almost a routine task now. Go to bed early, wake around 3h10 am for a quick 3h30 am breakfast and be ready to leave by 4 am. Walked by the Puja, light up a little fire, pray for a while for safe passage, throw some rice and then start heading towards the icefall.

  I felt strong and confident that morning. Moving fast, it was a much different than my previous walk in the icefall. I was already seeing myself enjoying the sun at camp 2 and talking down camp 3. All of sudden, everything changed. Started to be dizzy, my right eye went blurry and felt weird. Sat down on an ice block. Calmed down and relaxed for a minute. I looked at Jangbu telling him to come see me. When I stood up again, my eye was worst. Even Jangbu said something like “external ok, but internal problem” and made a sign that my eye was not ok. That was enough for me to call it a day.

  Sitting down on that ice block, it felt like the whole world had stopped. I knew exactly what that meant for me. It felt like 10-15 minutes (probably only 1 or 2 in reality) The icefall was beautiful, the sun was warm. I started crying and letting my emotions out. Jangbu hugged me and somehow found the right words in that moment. What a great Sherpa and human being he is.

  We started our way down, slowly, the icefall is technical. Imagine with only 1 eye. At the bottom, near crampon point, I sat down again in a much safer area then before. I cried for a while, looked at the icefall, once again hugged Jangbu and promised myself that I would come back. The walk to base camp felt like I was walking in slow motion. Got to base camp, had a cup of tea with Peter Hamor (a real badass mountaineer, you should check him out) and then went to Everest ER once again.

  This time, of course, I didn’t get the medical clearance to go back up again. I had to go down to Kathmandu and get my eye checked but I’ve decided to call it a day and come back home. Even if the doctors would have said that my eye was ok, I didn’t feel like risking my eye to climb a mountain. I’m willing to sacrifice a lot to summit Everest, but an eye is not part of the list.

  Oxygen: Taken, not used


  Justin Ionescu (Romania)
  Gina Badescu (USA/Romania)

  Camps: BC(20/04,5350m),C1(24/04,5900m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(16/04,7000m),
         C4(17/05,7900m),xxx(18/05,8400m)
  Left:  20/05/2018
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Abandoned at 8400m due to lateness in the day.

  Left C2 on 26/04, back to BC. Started summit push on 15/05 from C2. To C3 on 16/05, passed by a Russian [Rustem Amirov attempting Lhotse] who died just above C3. He was still alive at this stage, but barely. Arrived C4 very late on 17/05, only had two hours to rest. Pushed on to Balcony, but not enough time remaining for summit. Back to C4, slept there. From C4 back to C2 on next day. Descended to BC, arrived on 19th. Heli from EBC to Lukla on 20/05. 
  				
  Difficult to get exact reason for abandonment. Sounds like they were too late at Balcony on first attempt, and then lost resolve to try again from C4 due to being affected by having seen the Russian casualty. 

  Badescu had been hoping to be the first Romanian woman to climb Everest.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 by all.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Bhote, Makalu
    Namja Sherpa, Makalu


  Shivangi (India)
  Rohtash (India)

  Camps: BC(13/04,5300m),C1(22/04,6100m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3(14/05,7200m),
         C4(17/05,7900m),Smt(16/05)
  Left:  20/05/2018 by heli
  Hired: 3
  Term:  Success (8:21 am)

  The summit team of two and three Sherpas left C4 at 8:15 pm on 15 May and reached summit at 8:21 am on 16 May. They stayed on summit for 30 minutes, then descended  to C4 where they arrived at 5:30 pm. Next day 17 May to C2 and following day 18 May to BC. The summit day weather was very good.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used by members from C3-summit-C3, Sherpas from C4-summit-C4.

  Sherpas:
    Umesh Dawa (for Rohtash)
    Italian Dawa + one more (for Shivangi)


  Clay Teewary (UK/India)

  Appr:  Lukla->Pheriche (trekking), Pheriche to BC by heli (due to knee strain)
  Camps: BC(22-23/04,5350m),C1(29/04,5900m),C2(30/04,6400m),C3(16/05,7000m),
         Lhotse.C4(17/05,7800m),xxx
  Left:  20/05/2018 by heli to Lukla, then Ktmdu
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Abandoned at 7800m due to lack of confidence in Sherpa and exhaustion.

  Attempted summit twice:

  On rotation 01/05 reached crampon point at around 6800m, but turned around as too late in the day. Back to C2, stayed C2 on 01/05, then to BC from where returned to KTM from via heli.

  Returned on 12/05 to BC from Kathmandu via heli. Stayed one night, moved to C1 again on 13/05 for summit attempt. Reached C2 on 14/05. On morning of 15/05 Dorchi Sherpa became unwell; also battery on radio ran out, no spare, and started late again from C2. Again reached crampon point too late, had to turn round.

  Made second attempt on 16/05, this time with Pasang Sherpa. Reached C3, stayed at night of 16/05 at C3. Pasang also becoming unwell. 17/05 morning was delayed in starting for C4 as inexperienced Sherpa (in Teewary's words) had forgotten to boil water during night. Reached Lhotse C4 at 7800m on 17/05. Lost confidence in Sherpa as oxygen was running out, and says Sherpa was prioritizing water rather than oxygen. Was using 3 litres [flow rate] at this stage.

  Lhotse C4 to Everest C3 again by 11 am on 18/05, so went on and descended to C2. One night at C2 on 18/05, then reached base camp on 20/05. Heli back from BC to Lukla, then heli from Lukla to KTM.

  Climb abandoned due to: Teewary says 80% lack of confidence in Sherpa 2, 20% as he was exhausted.
  	
  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C2 on second attempt; Pasang Sherpa used after C3.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Dorchi, Makalu-Barun
    Pasang, Makalu-Barun


  Christoffer Wang (Norway)

  Camps: BC(11/04,5400m),C1(20/04,6100m),C2(22/04,6400m),xxx
  Left:  29/04/2018 by heli to CIWEC in Ktmdu
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 6400m due to pain.

  After he finished his first rotation, Wang suffered from loss of appetite and some pain in the back. He decided to fly to Kathmandu on 24/04 to regain some energy and to see a doctor. The doctor diagnosed a chest infection and gave him antibiotics. He flew back to Lukla on 27/04. Once back in Lukla the pain got worse, and even much worse when Wang got back to EBC. He saw a doctor again who again diagnosed chest infection. The pain became unbearable and Wang flew by helicopter to CIWEC hospital from base camp on 29/04. The doctors couldn't find anything, but the next day Wang did a CT scan and pulmonary embolism (blood clots) were discovered. It's likely to be related to the altitude, but it could be genetic too according to Wang. Wang is feeling better day by day and is planning to fly home on 11/05. He will receive medicine medication for the next few months. 
  	
  Oxygen: Taken, not used

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Chhiri


  Dabuti Sherpa (Nepal)

  Camps: BC(16/04,5350m),C1(26/04,5900m),C2(27/04,6400m),C3(12/05,7200m),
         C4(13/05,7900m),Smt(14/05)
  Left:  17/04/2018
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success (7:30 am)

  Dabuti with Pasang Gyalzen reached summit at 7:30 am on 14 May; earlier they left C4 at 7:30 pm on 13 May. The summiters stayed on summit between 15-20 minutes and went down to C4 at 3 pm. Next day 15 May they went down to BC. It was good weather at the beginning, but on the summit it was bad snowfall and windy. There were about 40-50 climbers on the summit. 
  	
  Oxygen: Dabuti from C3-summit-C2, Pasang Gyalzen from C3-summit-C4.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Gyalzen, Makalu (this is 3rd time Everest)


expid: EVER18117
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Song Yu-Jiang
sponsor: Dingfeng Adventure Everest Expedition 8848m 2018
countries: USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-18
smtdate: 2018-05-16
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2018-05-21
campsites: BC(18/04,5350m),C1(23/04,5900m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(30/04,7000m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(16-17/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  18/04  5350m
  C1  23/04  5900m
  C2  24/04  6400m
  C3  30/05  7000m
  C4  15/05  7900m
  Smt 16/05  by Wen at 8 am, Guan at 8:40 am, Zhao at 9 am, Xiong at 9 am,
             Zheng at 9 am, Li at 9 am, Wang at 9 am and 11 Sherpas
  Smt 17/05  by Hu at 7:18 am and Gu at 10:12 am and two Sherpas.

  16/05 Summit team and Liu Qing-Xiao and Huang left C4 at 7:30 pm on 15/05. Liu Qing-Xiao and Huang reached 8600m, but turned back. Liu Qing-Xiao got snowblind and Huang had breathing problems. Huang descended to C3 and Liu Qing-Xiao to C4. Rest of the team carried on and stayed 15 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at between 4 pm and 6 pm. On 17/05 they descended to C2 and 18/05 BC.

  17/05 summit team left C4 at 6 pm and summited. Gu descended to C4 and reached it at 5 pm. Hu descended to C2 where he arrived at 5 pm.

  Gao reached C3 on 14/05. He suffered from a bad cough.

  Xun reached C2. He broke 5 ribs after he took a fall.

  Liu Li reached 8300m on 18/05. She lost her summit gloves.

  Wang reached 6900m, then abandoned due to lack of experience.

  Team left BC on 21/05 by heli.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C2 to top to C2 by members
    From C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.


expid: EVER18118
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Zhang Wei
sponsor: Chinese 14 Peaks Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-20
smtdate: 2018-05-20
smttime: 0350
termdate: 2018-05-23
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-181-08)
campsites: BC(20/04,5350m),C1(27/04,5900m),C2(28/04,6400m),C3(18/05,7000m),C4(19/05,7900m),Smt(20-21/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  20/04  5350m
  C1  27/04  5900m
  C2  28/04  6400m
  C3  18/05  7000m
  C4  19/05  7900m
  Smt 20/05  by Zi Xinsheng at 7 pm, Xiao Jun at 3:50 am, Li Hai-Ying at 4 am,
             Xu Hong-Bin at 4:50 am, Sun Yi-Quan at 3:50 am, Lyu Jun at 7 am and 
             Sherpas
  Smt 21/05  By Qu Jiao-Jiao, Li Jiang-Hong, Mingma David Sherpa and one more 
             Sherpa [Tenzen] at 5:50 am.
  Lhotse smt 22/05 by Li Jiang-Hong, Mingma David, Tata Lakpa at 8:40 am.

  Everest summit team started from C4 at 8 pm on 19/05. Not so busy on the route. They spent about 15 minutes on the summit. Some descended to C3, some to C2. Sun Yi-Quan descended to C2 and took a helicopter from C2 to BC.

  Li Jiang-Hong summited Everest at 5:30 am and stayed at the summit for two hours. He descended to C4, where he arrived at 10 am. On 22/05 he left C4 at 2 am, got to C4 Lhotse at 2:20 am and started to climb Lhotse with Mingma David, Tata Lakpa and one more Sherpa. They reached the summit at 8:40 am. They spent about on hour on the summit and descended to C4 Lhotse, where they arrived at noon, rested for one hour. Descended to C2, where they arrived at 2:30 pm. They stayed there until 6:40 pm and descended to BC, where they arrived at 12:45 am 23/05.

  Lhotse smt: 20/05 by Chang Jian at 7:52 am (no Sherpa, no O2).

  Chang left Lhotse C4 at 11 am 19/05. Straightforward climb. He spent about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to C3, where he arrived at 4 pm. On 21/05 down to BC.

  Lhotse smt: 20/05 by Qu Jiao-Jiao and one Sherpa [Tenzen] at 8:20 am.

  Qu Jiao-Jiao summited Lhotse before Everest. She was using oxygen and Sherpa support. She left Lhotse C4 at 11 am on 19/05 and climbed with Chang Jian. He was faster even though he did not use oxygen. She descended to Lhotse C4, where she rested till 7:30 pm. She arrived at Everest C4 at 9 pm, rested a bit and continued to Everest. She summited Everest on 21/05 at 5:50 am together with Li Jiang-Hong. She descended to C2. She took a helicopter from C2 on 21/05 and stayed the night at BC.

  Team left BC on 23/05 by heli.
  Heli from C2 on 20/05 Sun Yi-Quan.
  Heli from C2 on 21/05 Qu Jiao-Jiao.
  	
  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by all members apart from Li Jiang-Hong
    Li Jiang-Hong from C2 to top Everest, Lhotse back to C2
    Sherpas from C4 to top to C4
    Chang Jian did NOT use O2.


expid: EVER18119
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Marco Camandona
sponsor: Italian Everest-Lhotse Traverse 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-19
smtdate: 2018-05-17
smttime: 0545
termdate: 2018-05-24
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-181-09)
campsites: BC(19/04,5300m),C1(25/04,5900m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(07/05,7200m),C4(16/05,7900m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  19/04  5300m
  C1  25/04  5900m
  C2  26/04  6400m
  C3  07/05  7200m
  C4  16/05  7900m
  Smt EVER  17/05  Francois Cazzanelli, Maurizio Cheli and 2 Sherpas
  Smt LHOT  23/05  Francois Cazzanelli and Marco Camandona.

  Everest:

  Cazzanelli and Cheli started from C4 at 8:45 pm the day before, reached summit at 5:45 am (first from Nepal side this day), back to C4 at 10 am. Same day straight back to BC at 9:30 pm.

  Meanwhile Camandona and Sergio Cirio had slept at C4 that same summit night (with oxygen for Cirio).

  Hired:
    Ramesh Gurung, Hatiya-7, 1988-06-29, ID 101018-26 (to summit)
    Nima Rinje Sherpa, Jubing-5, 1997-05-19, ID 11-01-71-01934 (to summit)
    Rinje Sherpa, Makalu-9, 1998-01-10, ID 220-629 (to South Col)

  Lhotse:

  Cazzanelli and Camandona started from BC on 21 May, sleeping at C2. On 22 May to C4. On 23 May to summit. Started from C4 of Lhotse (7600m) at 11:15 pm (on 22 May), reached summit at 7:00 am (Cazzanelli)/7:30 am (Camandona), then back to Lhotse C4 at 11 am. Same day they were back to BC reaching at 6 pm.

  Oxygen:
    Everest: used by Cazzanelli (from 8300m to smt to Balcony)
             used by Cheli (from C3 to smt to C2 and to sleep from C3)
             Sherpas also used it from C4 to smt to C4
    Lhotse:  not used by either Camandona and Cazzanelli


  From Montagna TV website:

  When Rinje Sherpa carrying oxygen tanks become sick at C4, there would not be enough oxygen for all three climbers, so Sergio Cirio gave up his summit attempt. Cirio was a client of Cazzanelli.


expid: EVER18120
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Miroslav Hrad
sponsor: Czech Everest Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-19
smtdate: 2018-05-14
smttime: 1015
termdate: 2018-05-18
campsites: BC(19/04,5350m),C1(6000m),C2(25/04,6390m),C3(12/05,6905m),C4(13/05,7900m),Smt(14,16/05)
accidents: Grabmueller frostbite on both hands
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  19/04  5350m
  C1    --   6000m
  C2  25/04  6390m
  C3  12/05  6905m
  C4  13/05  7900m
  Smt 14/05  by Hrad, Phurba Sherpa at 10:15 am
  Smt 16/05  by Grabmueller, Pemba Sherpa at 12 pm.

  On 13/05, Hrad, Grabmueller, Pemba and Phurba arrived at C4. As the weather was not looking too good they were unsure whether to go or not. In the end only Hrad and Phurba set out for the summit as it was Hrad's 40th birthday on 14/05.

  14/05 summit team left C4 at around 9:30 am. The weather was clear and calm. They stayed around 10 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at around 5 pm. On 15/05 to C2. He was waiting for Grabmueller at C2.

  Grabmueller and Pemba left C4 at 8 pm on 15/05. They had initially planned to go for the summit for the 15/05, but the weather deteriorated and they stayed at C4 for another night. On the way up it was windy. The fixed rope was covered in snow. They spent about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at about 10:30 pm. On 17/05 when he woke up he noticed that he had frostbite. Grabmueller and Pemba left C4 at 3 pm in the afternoon (he was too exhausted to go down earlier) and reached C2 at 1:30 am on 18/05. He received some help from other Sherpas (tea at Lhotse C4).

  On 18/05 Grabmueller was evacuated from C4 at 7 am. Hrad joined him. They were flown to BC and then to Kathmandu. They arrived in Kathmandu at 5 pm on 18/05. At CIWEC clinic for about 5 days.

  Polastik reached Lhotse C4 on 13/05. He was too exhausted to continue.

  Ondrej reached C3. He was too exhausted to continue.

  Hrad and Grabmueller left on 18/05 by helicopter from C2.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C3 to summit to C3 by members
    From C4 to high point to C4 by Sherpas.


expid: EVER18121
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Taras Pozdnii
sponsor: Ukrainian Everest Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-17
smtdate: 2018-05-14
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2018-05-16
campsites: BC(17/04,5350m),C1(21/04,6080m),C2(22/04,6490m),C3(12/05,7060m),C4(13/05,7900m),Smt(14/05)
accidents: Lama Babu Sherpa fell from South Summit (body was not found); Pozdnii's snowblindness and frostbite
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  17/04  5350m
  C1  21/04  6080m
  C2  22/04  6490m
  C3  12/05  7060m
  C4  13/05  7900m
  Smt 14/05  by Pozdnii, Nga Tashi Sherpa, Horodechnyy, Nima Sherpa, Semerenko, 
             Lama Babu Sherpa at 9 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 8 pm. There were around 40 people on the route. The weather was good until they reached the summit at 9 am. Then the wind started. They stayed about half an hour on the summit. On their descent, the wind picked up significantly. At about 8800m Pozdnii lost his snow goggles, they were blown away by the wind. He continued without goggles and descended with Horodechnyy, Nima Sherpa and Nga Tashi to C4, where they arrived at 3 pm. Semerenko descended to C2 and arrived at 10 pm.

  Lama Babu descended on his own and it is believed that the wind took him and he fell off the South Summit. His rucksack was found at the South Summit.

  On 15/05, Pozdnii woke up at C4 and he had a lot of pain in his eyes. He had trouble coming down, but was able to walk down on his own. Horodechnyy was with him. They descended to C2, where they arrived at 3 pm. On 16/05, they were evacuated by helicopter due to Pozdnii's snowblindness and frostbite on all five fingers on his right hand. Horodechnyy was suffering from slight AMS.

  Halay is climbing Lhotse and Semerenko is also staying to attempt Lhotse. 

  Pozdii and Horodechnyy heli-vaced from C2 on 16/05.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to summit to bottom of Lhotse face by Pozdnii 
       and to C2 by Horodechnyy
    From C3 to summit to C3 by Sherpas.


expid: EVER18122
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Daniel Stringham
sponsor: American-Australian Everest Expedition 2018
countries: Australia
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-26
smtdate: 2018-05-18
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2018-05-20
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East
campsites: BC(26/04,5350m),C1(04/05,5900m),C2(05/05,6400m),C3(16/05,7000m),C4(17/05,7900m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  26/04  5350m
  C1  04/05  5900m
  C2  05/05  6400m
  C3  16/05  7000m
  C4  17/05  7900m
  Smt 18/05  by Fabbro, Stringham, Wilkinson, Snow, Temba, Dawa, Gyaljen at 7:30 am.

  Team stayed on summit 30 mins. Clear on summit. At C3 saw the deceased Russian, who was catatonic at that stage (on morning of 17/05). Apart from that nothing significant, lot of wind on summit ridge, but totally calm on summit.

  All went to C2 on 18/05, then descended to base camp and waited 2 days for heli back (first to Lukla, then to Kathmandu). Team left BC on 20/05 by heli.

  Fabbro has two toes which exhibit possible frostbite (not clear final outcome at present).

  Also climbed Lobuche before, having first got to Everest BC on 26/04.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C33 to summit and on return to C2
    Same use by Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Temba Bhote
    Dawa [Finjo?] Sherpa
    Gyaljen Sherpa
    Denduk Bhote [?]


  From Himalayan Times - 18 May 2018

  American climbers — Daniel Stringham, David Snow, Fabbro Fabian Anthony and Thomos Franklin — climbed Mt Everest along with Temba Bhote, Dawa Finjo Sherpa, Gyaljen Sherpa and Denduk Bhote, according to Thaneswar Guragai, an official at Seven Summit Treks.


expid: EVER18124
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Brazil
leaders: Carlos Santalena
sponsor: Brazilian Grade6 Everest Expedition 2018
countries: Australia
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-15
smtdate: 2018-05-19
smttime: 0845
termdate: 2018-05-23
campsites: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(21/04,5900m),C2(01/05,6400m),C3(17/05,7000m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(19-20/05)
accidents: Damai Sarki Sherpa (fatal crevasse fall) at C2
achievment: Youngest Brazilian to summit Everest
agency: Himalayan Ascent (Seven Summit Treks pmt)
routememo:
  BC  14/04  5350m
  C1  21/04  5900m
  C2  01/05  6440m
  C3  17/05  7000m
  C4  18/05  7900m
  Smt 19/05  by Franke Salco and Lama Tenji at 9:30 am
  Smt 20/05  by Ling at 7:30 am, Zangaro Renato and Ayesha, Santalena, Pemba Rita,
             Anup Gurung, Damai Sarki Sherpa, 7:43 am.

  Team reached C4 at 6:30 pm on 18/05. The Zangaro's and Santalena knew that they would be too exhausted to climb the following day, so they decided to stay. When they reached C4 they realized that six bottles of oxygen were missing. They radioed to BC and the agency managed to get six bottles from Lhotse C4 (from Madison Mountaineering).

  Franke Salco, Ling, Lama Tenji, Phura Gyalgen left C4 at 9:40 am. After one hour Ling turned back with Phura Gyalgen as he said it was too windy. Franke Salco and Lama Tenzing continued to the summit. They descended to C4, where they stayed the night.

  20/05 Summit team and Kriger left C4 at 7 pm on 19/05. Straightforward climb. No traffic jams. They spent about 25 minutes on the summit. On the way down Renato Zangaro noticed he had frostbite on his left thumb. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 2 pm.

  Kriger reached 8050m, but he felt dizzy and thought he had HACE and turned back. He rested at C4 and continued to C2 later that day on 20/05. On 20/05 he was flown from C2 to BC.

  On 21/05 the second summit team reached C2. Renato Zangaro was heli-vaced from C2 due to frostbite on his left thumb. It is 3rd degree and will be fine.

  When Zangaro was picked up by by helicopter on 21/05 at 5 pm, Damai Sarki was at the heli-pad. He was on his knees trying to direct the helicopter, but the wind must have pushed him into a crevasse. The crevasse was not very wide, but 50 metres deep. At first nobody noticed that Damai Sarki was gone. Willie Benegas descended into the crevasse and attached him to a rope and the others pulled him up. He was very beaten up, but still alive. Maurizio Fiolini (helicopter pilot) picked him up and wanted to fly him to Kathmandu, but weather was too bad so they brought him to Khunde hospital where he died at 10 pm.

  Everyone took helicopter apart on 23/05 from Franke Salco, who walked to Lukla.

  Sherpas:
    Damai Sarki, Jubing-5, Khumbu, 08/01/1988
    Lama Tenji (used to work for Adventure Consultants)
    Pemba Rita, Beding, Dolakha, 31/08/1979
    Anup Gurung, Swara-5, Gorkha 26/03/1989

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Sherpas and members.


  Willi Benagas account of Damai Sarki's crevasse fall on 21/05:

  According to Willie Benegas, Damai Sarki was directing the helicopter who had landed in line with a crevasse right next to it. When he stepped back he fell into the crevasse, which was about body-width. It was about 5 pm. This differs from Santalena's account who said that Damai Sarki was on his knees and blown into the crevasse by the force of the wind of the helicopter.

  Nobody really noticed that he was gone. The Sherpas tried to fish him out with a rope, but that did not work. Damian and Willie set up the anchor, Willie descended into the crevasse and brought him up. The helicopter was already waiting (Maurizio Folini) and Willie flew out of C2 with Damai Sarki directly to Namche. They went to hospital, but he could not be saved, Willie thinks he stopped breathing at about 10:45 pm.


expid: EVER18125
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Greg Vernovage
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2018
countries: Australia, Austria, Brazil, Canada, France, India, Norway, S Africa, Spain, Sri Lanka, UK
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-05
smtdate: 2018-05-21
smttime: 0500
termdate: 2018-05-25
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East for acclimatization; summited Lhotse (LHOT-181-01)
campsites: BC(05/04,5350m),C1(12/04,5900m),C2(14/04,6440m),C3(24/04,7000m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(21-22/05)
agency: Beyul Adventure
routememo:
  BC  05/04  5350m
  C1  12/04  5900m
  C2  14/04  6440m
  C3  24/04  7000m
  C4  20/05  7900m
  Smt 21/05  by Barnett, Chan, Crowley, De Freitas, Godcharles, Harrison, Kayl,
             Olivier Villuendas, Severinghaus, Stangl [and 13 Sherpas] 
             between 5:29 am and 7 am
  Smt 22/05  by Beek and Cantin at 4:55 am, John, Peries, Rzucidlo and 8
             Sherpas between 5:55 am and 6:30 am.

  Lhotse Smt 22/05 by Godcharles, Phunuru, Chhewang Lendu, Nima Nuru at 4:50 am.

  21/05 summit team and Elleman left C4 at 9:45 pm on 20/05. Elleman turned back at the Balcony (8400m) due to cold feet. Summiters spent about 5 minutes (Cantin about one hour). Everyone apart from Godcharles and Severinghaus descended to C2.

  Godcharles, Chhewang Lendu, Nimu Nuru, Phunuru left Everest C4 at 11:15 pm on 21/05, descended to Lhotse C4 and continued to the summit and reached the summit by 5 am. They descended to C2, where they arrived at 10 am.

  22/05 summit team left C4 at 9 pm on 21/05. They spent 5 minutes on the summit and all descended to C2, where they arrived between 10 am and 7 pm (Rzucidlo, Phinjo and John).

  Becker reached BC on 06/04 and decided to go home to his family.

  Chestnut reached C3 on 24/04. He contracted frostbite on the tip of his pinkie fingers and was helicoptered out of BC.

  Duester reached BC on 06/04. He had a chest infection and took a helicopter to Kathmandu.

  Johnston reached C2 on 14/04. During the next rotation she fell off the ladder and banged her head on the ice. She had a concussion, was put on oxygen to descend to BC and was then heli-vaced from C2.

  Kierspe reached BC on 06/04 and left the expedition to go home.

  Lawrence reached C2 on 14/04. He suffered from dehydration and sickness, and was helicoptered from BC back to Kathmandu.

  Prabhudesai reached C3 on 24/04. On the summit rotation he turned back from C2 on 19/05, due to lack of motivation.

  Riedacker reached BC. He left BC because he wanted to go home.

  Rohme reached BC and went home.

  Walters reached BC. She tried to go into the Icefall for four times, but had breathing problems and felt suffocating. She left the expedition early.

  Remainder of team left BC on 25/05 by heli.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members
    From C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.


expid: EVER18126
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Dani Fuller
sponsor: SummitClimb Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2018
countries: Canada, USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-18
smtdate: 2018-05-23
smttime: 0520
termdate: 2018-05-27
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-181-06)
campsites: BC(18/04,5350m),C1(27/04,5900m),C2(29/04,6440m),C3(20/05,7000m),C4(21/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  BC  18/04  5350m
  C1  27/04  5900m
  C2  29/04  6440m
  C3  20/04  7000m
  C4  21/05  7900m
  Smt 23/05  by Fuller with Pemarinji, Guinchard with Pemba Sherpa, Kushwaha with
             Sange Sherpa at 5:30 am, Tomordy with Tenji Sherpa at 5:45 am, 
             Ang Dawa at 9:50 am and Quillen at 10:00 am.

  Summit team left C4 between 7 pm and 9 pm. Straightforward climb. They spent between 10 and 30 minutes on the summit, then descended to C4, where they arrived between 9 am and 1 pm. They all stayed at C4 apart from Fuller and Knight.

  Knight reached C4 on 21/05. She developed an infection in her eye. She wears contact lenses. They thought it was snowblindness and was hoping that it was getting better so she could go for the summit. When the other teammates headed for the summit Knight's eye was not better and she stayed at C4 while the others went to the summit. On his descent, Fuller picked her up from C4 and they descended to C2. Knight was almost blind and it took them six hours to get down. On 24/05 Knight was heli-vaced from C2 to Lukla, stayed one night there and then was flown to Kathmandu on 25/05.

  Kushwaha was intending to summit Lhotse as well, but abandoned the idea after his Everest climb.

  25/05 everybody down to BC. Team left BC on 27/05.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members and Sherpas.


  Lhotse Summit:

  Lhotse Smt  22/05 by Matthew Williams and Lhakpa Tendu Sherpa at 9 am,
                    Thomas Taylor and Pasang Nuri Sherpa at 3 pm.

  Summit team left C4 at 2 am. Straightforward climb. They stayed an average of about 10 minutes on the summit.

  Williams descended to C2, while Taylor, Lhakpa Tendu and Pasang Nuri stayed at C4. They descended to C2 on 23/05. On 24/05, Taylor walked over a snow bridge, which collapsed. He fell in but fortunately he was on a rope, but fractured his ankle (his crampon got caught in the ice and then a piece of ice hit his ankle and twisted it). He continued to BC and was helicoptered on 25/05. He went to CIWEC where they strapped it up.

  Helko Weiner reached to below the Yellow Band (7550m). He had problems with his feet. They were numb due to wrong-sized boots and he turned back. The others continued.

  Taylor had problems with his regulators and only used one bottle to the summit. He thinks the reason he was so slow was that he was not getting enough oxygen.

  Sherpas:
    Sange Sherpa, Diding-5, Makalu-Barun, 21/05/1971
    Lhakpa Tendu (Lhakpa Kormu), Patle-4, Okhaldhunga, 28/03/1977
    Pema Rinji, Patle


  Neal Kushwaha by email, 04/06/2018:

  Nothing of note took place on the day for me. However, on the 20th, John Quillen, Dawa Sherpa, Sange Sherpa, and I saved a man's [Chhering Dorje Sherpa] life at the base of the Lhotse Face. He was hit in the head by a falling rock. His head split open. Sange and I radioed for a heli and then walked him down to the end of C2. Here"s the story:

    http://www.bigclimbs.com/near-death-on-the-lhotse-face-everest-2018/


expid: EVER18127
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Mike Hamill
sponsor: Climbing the Seven Summits (CTSS) Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2018
countries: Hungary
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-18
smtdate: 2018-05-18
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2018-05-22
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-181-13); climbed Lobuche East
campsites: BC(18/04,5350m),C1(24/04,5900m),C2(02/05,6440m),C3(16/05,7000m),C4(17/05,7900m),Smt(18/05)
agency: TAGnepal Trekking
routememo:
  BC  18/04  5350m
  C1  24/04  5900m
  C2  02/05  6440m
  C3  16/05  7000m
  C4  17/05  7900m
  Smt 18/05  by Wood and Pasang Tendi Sherpa at 7 am, Grom, Kugler, Mahlum, Nemeth,
             Pan, Lama Kusang, Ngang Pasang, Dendi at 8 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 10 pm on 17/05, Nemeth left 8 pm. Straightforward climb. They spent about 43 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at around noon. Pan and Kusang descended to C2, where they arrived at 6 pm.

  Wood and Pasang Tendi left C4 at midnight on 19/05. The descended to Lhotse C4, stopped for a bit and continued to Lhotse.

  Lhotse Smt  19/05 by Wood and Pasang Tendi at 6 am.
  			

  Lhotse ONLY team:
  C3  17/05
  C4  18/05
  Smt 19/05 by Carstens, Kusang, Ibrahimi (with TAG), Guillaume (TAG), Palden and
            Wongel at 7 am.

  Lhotse ONLY team left Lhotse C4 at around midnight. Straightforward Climb. All summiters descended to C2, where they arrived at around 2 pm. On 20/05 everyone back at BC.

  Hamill was BC manager. He never intended to climb.

  Team left BC on 22/05 by heli.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to both smts to C3 by Sherpas and members.

  Everest Sherpas:
    Pasang Tendi Sherpa, Khembalung, Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha (27/10/1983)
    Fur Gyaljen Sherpa, Waku-4, Solukhumbu (12/31/1983)
    Dawa Dendi Sherpa, Gudel-4, Solukhumbu (14/04/1977)
    Ngang Pasang Sherpa, Waku-4, Solukhumbu (27/10/1986)
    Pemba Rinji Sherpa, Jubing-1, Solukhumbu (26/12/1981)

  Lhotse Summit Sherpas: 
    Pasang Tendi Sherpa, Khembalung, Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha (27/10/1983)
    Lama Kusang Sherpa, Kurima, Solukhumbu [26/06/90]


expid: EVER18128
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Jacob Schmitz
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Everest Expedition 2018
countries: UK
approach: Heli to Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-05
smtdate: 2018-05-17
smttime: 0740
termdate: 2018-05-20
othersmts: Summited Lobuche East on 9 April
campsites: BC(05/04,5350m),C2(19/04,6400m),C3(15/05),C4(16/05,7900m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  From Jacob Schmitz:

  1st night at C1: we never stayed at C1; we climbed Lobuche East and spent two 
    nights at 5750m on the 11th and 12th of April.
  1st night at C2: 23rd of April
  1st night at C3: 27th of April
  1st night at C4: 16th of May
  Summit push: departed EBC for C2, 13th of May
    Members started oxygen at C3, 15th of May
    Sherpas started oxygen at C4, 16th of May
  Summit: arrived at S Col 16:00 May 16th, left for summit at 22:30, summited at 
    07:40 on May 17th, stayed on the summit for 25 min.

  Summit team: Jacob Schmitz, Dan Horne, Ngima Sona, Nima Wangchu.
  Ross Jobson and Son Dorje turned around at midnight.

  After summiting all six of us went down to C2 and took a rest day on the 18th. We arrived back to EBC on the 19th. Ross, Dan and I walked out of EBC on the 20th. On the 23rd we flew out from Namche to KTM.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used by members from C3 to smt to C3, Sherpas from C4 to smt to C2.
    5 cylinders of oxygen stolen from C4.


expid: EVER18129
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Samantha McMahon
sponsor: Pioneer Adventure International Everest Expedition 2018
countries: China, India, Malaysia, Mongolia, Nepal, Poland, Switzerland
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-13
smtdate: 2018-05-16
smttime: 0710
termdate: 2018-05-23
campsites: BC(13/04,5350m),C1(5900m),C2(6440m),C3(7000m),C4(7900m),Smt(16-19/05)
agency: Pioneer Adventure
routememo:
  The Pioneer Adventure Everest expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Pioneer Adventure provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Szczepan Brzeski (Poland)

  Camps: BC(18/04,5350m),C1(11/05,6100m),C2(13/05,6400m),C3(15/05,7200m),
         C4(16/05,7900m),Smt(20/05)
  Left:  21/05/2018 by heli
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success (9 am)

  Brzeski and Dorje left C4 at 8 pm on 16 May and reached summit at 9 am on 17 May. They stayed on summit for 50 minutes, then descended to C4 at 4 pm, continued to C3 where they arrived at 3 am of 18 May. Then to BC. The summit day weather was very good.

  Oxygen: Brzeski from C3-summit-C3, Sherpa from C4-summit-C4


  Bhagwan Chawale (India)
  Prajit Rasiklal Pardeshi (India)

  Camps: BC(17/04,5350m),C1(5900m),C2(6400m),C3(15/05,7000m),C4(16/05,7900m),
         Smt(17/05)
  Left:  20/05/2018 by heli
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success (6:40 am)

  Summit team of Chawale, Pardeshi, Dorchi [and Pasang Dawa] left C4 at 7:30 pm. Straightforward climb. They summited at 6:40 am,  stayed 30 minutes on the summit and descended to C4 where they arrived at 1:30 pm. They stayed the night at C4. On 18/05 they descended to C2, arrived there at 12:30 pm, had lunch and continued to BC, where they arrived at 7:30 pm.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C3.


  Samantha McMahon (Australia)

  Camps: BC(20/04,5350m),C1(5900m),C2(27/04,6400m),C3(13/05,7200m),
         Lhotse.C4(14/05,7700m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(16/05)
  Left:  18/05/2018 by heli
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success (10 am)

  McMahon and Gesman left C4 at 8:30 pm on 15/05. It was very slow moving due to too many people on the route. McMahon felt her feet getting cold, but she did not worry about it too much. They spent about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at about 4 pm. When she took her boots off in the tent she found out that she had frostbite on her left foot. She took Ibuprofen and kept the foot warm. On 17/05 they descended to C2. She was still on O2 and slept on O2. On 18/05 she was picked up by helicopter and flown back to Kathmandu.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C2 by McMahon
    From C4 to summit to C4 by Gesman Tamang.


  Tanya Rollier (Switzerland)

  Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(23/04,5900m),C2(24/04,6440m),C3(15/05,7000m),
         C4(16/05,7900m),Smt(18/05)
  Left:  18/05/2018 by heli
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success (7:45 am)

  When Rollier and Pemba started their summit push from C3 on 16/05, they left C3 only at 9am, which was too late. When she reached C4 at 6 pm on 16/05 she felt too tired to continue, so she stayed one extra night at C4.

  Team left C4 at 8:30 pm on 17/05. It was very windy. Straightforward climb. They spent about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to C3, where they arrived at 7 pm. On 19/05 back to C2, on 20/05 to BC.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from about 7000m to top to 7000m by Rollier, but slept
     in C3 without O2. From C3 to top to C3 by Pemba.


  Sangeeta Sindhi Bahl (India)

  Camps: BC(13/04,5350m),C1(20/04,6100m),C2(22/04,6400m),C3(16/05,7200m),
         Lhotse.C4(17/05,7800m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(19/05)
  Left:  23/05/2018
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success (7:45 am)

  Sindhi, Lakpa Nurbu and Nga Tenji started their summit push from Lhotse C4 at 1 pm on 18 May, they reached C4 at 4 pm. From C4 they started at 6:50 pm and got to the top at 7:10 am on 19 May (tenp -30?) and stayed on top for 15 minutes, then descended to C4 at 1 pm and spent the night there. Next day on 20 May went down to C2 where they arrived at 7 pm. They rested at C3 for 2 to 3 hours. Following day, 21 May arrived to BC. Summit day weather, wind started picking up 70km/ph from South Summit all the way up. There were 7 to 8 climbers ahead of Sindhi team and behind them at least 10-12 climbers.

  Oxygen: Sindhi from C2 crampon point to summit to C3, Sherpas from C3 to summit 
    to C3. Sindhi and Sherpas used for sleeping also.


  Pioneer Adventure Press Release:

  Mount Everest (8848m) south face expedition organized by Pioneer Adventure successfully made summit on 16th May, 17th May, 18th May, 19th May and 22nd May in five groups comprising the following climbers (both national and international).

  The name list of first group of Everest Summiteers made summit on 16th May is as follows:

  1. Mongolian climber Byambasuren (Bambi) (with Lakpa Thendu)
  2. Australian woman climber Samantha McMahon (with Gesman Tamang)
  3. Chinese climber Chang-Juan He (with Mingma Dorchi)
  4. Nepali climber Prakash Raj Pandey (Chhiring Lama)
  5. Nepali climber Chhoki Sherpa (with Pemba Dorje)
   
  Lakpa Thendu Sherpa, Gesman Tamang, Mingma Dorji Sherpa, Tsering Bhote and Pemba Dorji Sherpa accompanied the above expedition members to the summit point.

  The name list of Second group of Everest Summiteers made summit on 17th May is as follows:

  1. Poland climber Szczepan Janusz Brzeski (with Ngima Dorchi Tamang)
  2. Poland climber Magdalena Katarzyna Gorzkowska (with Raj Kumar Tamang)
  3. Nepali climber Phunjo Jangmu Lama (with Pasang Tenji Sherpa)
  4. Indian climber Bhagwan Bhikoba Chawale (with Dorchi Sherpa)
  5. Indian climber Prajit Rasiklal Pardeshi (with [Pasang] Dawa Sherpa)
  6. Nepali climber Dikki Sherpa (with Kami Dorchi Sherpa)

  Ngima Dorchi Sherpa, Raj Kumar Tamang, Pasang Tenji Sherpa, Dorchi Sherpa, Dawa Sherpa and Kami Sherpa accompanied the above expedition members to the summit point.

  The name list of third group of Everest Summiteers made summit on 18th May is as follows:

  1. Switzerland climber Tanya Roller (with Pemba Sherpa)
  2. Nepali climber Narbin Magar (youngest climber) (with Dawa Sherpa)

  Pemba Sherpa and Dawa Sherpa accompanied the above expedition members to the summit point.

  The name list of fourth group of Everest Summiteers made summit on 19th May is as follows:

  1. Indian climber Sangeeta Sindhi Bahl (oldest Indian climber)

  Nga Tenji Sherpa and Lakpa Nurbu Sherpa accompanied the above expedition members to the summit point.

  The name list of fifth group of Everest Summiteers made summit on 22nd May is as follows:

  1. Doma Sherpa (Sherpa female journalist)

  Pasang Sherpa and Changba Sherpa accompanied the above expedition members to the summit point.


expid: EVER18130
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Prakash Raj Pandey
sponsor: Pioneer Adventure Nepalese Everest Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-16
smtdate: 2018-05-16
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2018-05-25
campsites: BC(5350m),C1(5900m),C2(6400m),C3(7200m),C4(7900),Smt(16-19,22/05)
agency: Pioneer Adventure
routememo:
  The Pioneer Adventure Everest expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Pioneer Adventure provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Chhoki Sherpa (Nepal)

  Camps: BC(16/04,5380m),C1(24/04,5980m),C2(25/04,6500m),C3(13-14/05,7200m),
         C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(16/05)
  Left:  21/05/2018 by heli
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success (12:15 pm)

  On 15 May Chhoki and Pemba Dorchi started their summit puch from C4 at 10:15 pm and reached summit at 12:15 pm on 16 May. The summiters stayed on summit for 25 minutes and went down to C4 where they arrived at 6 pm. Route was jammed for about 3 hours. Next day 17 May they went down to C2 and on 18 May to BC. Very good weather, there were about 90 climbers ahead of them and on the summit ahead of them and 10-15 climbers behind them.

  Oxygen: Chhoki from C3-summit-C3, Sherpa from C4-summit-C4.


  Dikki Sherpa (Nepal)

  Camps: BC(18/04,5300m),C1(23/04,6100m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(15/05,7200m),
         C4(16/05,7900m),Smt(17/05)
  Left:  20/05/2018 by heli
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success (7:30 am)

  Dikki and Kami Dorchi started their summit push from C4 between 7-8 pm of 16 May. They got to the top at 7:30 am and stayed on summit for 30 minutes. Both descended to C4 where they arrived around 12:30 pm and continued to C3 where they arrived at 7 pm. Next day on 18 May went down to BC. The summit day weather was very good. Bhagwan Bhikoba Chawale and Prajit Rasiklal Pardeshi from India were together with Dikki on the summit.

  Oxygen: Dikki from C3-summit-C3, Sherpa from C4-summit-C4.


  Doma Sherpa (Nepal)

  Camps: BC(17/04,5360m),C2(27/04,6400m),C3(13/05,7200m),
         C4(14/05,7900m),Smt(22/05)
  Left:  25/05/2018 by heli
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success (5:00 am)

  Doma with Chhangba and Pasang reached summit at 5 am on 22 May; earlier they left C4 at 8:30 pm on 21 May. The summiters stayed on summit for 15 minutes and went down to C4 at 9 am, then continued to C2 where they arrived at 5 pm. Next day on 23 May descended to BC. It was good weather, there were 3-4 climbers on the summit ahead of them and 10-12 climbers behind them. 

  Oxygen: Doma from C3-summit-C3, Sherpas from C3-summit-Lhotse C4.


  Narbin Magar (Nepal)

  Camps: BC(17/04,5364m),C2(?/04,6500m),C3(16/05,7300m),C4(17/05,7900m),Smt(18/05)
  Left:  21/05/2018 by heli
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success (6:25 am)

  Narbin with Dawa left C4 at 8:30 pm on 17 May for summit and the reached summit at 6:25 am on 18 May. The summiters stayed there for 25 minutes and went down to C4 where they arrived at 9 am, then continued to C2 where they reached at 1:30 pm. Next day on 19 May descended to BC. It was windy in the morning till the Hillary Step. There were about 10 -15 climbers ahead of this team and behind them may be 50 climbers.

  Oxygen: Narbin from C3-summit-C3, Sherpa from C4-summit-C4.


  Phunjo Lama (Nepal)

  Camps: BC(19/04,5350m),C1(5900m),C2(27/04,6400m),C3(15/05,7000m),C4(16/05,7900m),
         Smt(18/05)
  Left:  19/05/2018 by heli
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success (6:26 am)

  Lama and Pasang Tenje started summit push from BC at 3:31 pm on 15/05. They arrived at C3 at 12:42 am on 16/05. Lama was intending to do a speed ascent, but Pasang Tenje's oxygen mask was faulty. When they reached C3 they were looking for another mask, but could not find one. He descended to C2 at 2:30 am to get a new mask while Lama stayed at C3 to wait for him. He returned to C3 at 2 pm on 16/05.

  They left C3 for the summit at 4 pm on 16/05. They reached C4 at 9 pm and set out for the summit at midnight. Weather was clear and calm. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit. She met Pemba with two Indian clients, who was coming up from Tibet side and Kari Kobler's team on the summit. They descended to C2, where they arrived at 3.30 pm.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from bottom of the Lhotse Face at 6800m to top to
    about 7300m by both summiters.


  Prakash Pandey (Nepal)

  Camps: BC(20/04,5380m),C1(24/04,6100m),C2(25/04,6500m),C3(13/05,7500m),
         C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(16/05)
  Left:  21/05/2018 by heli
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success (11:30 am)

  On 15 May Pandey and Chhiring Lama started their summit push from C4 at around 9:30 pm and reached summit at 11:30 am on 16 May. The summiters stayed on summit between 15-20 minutes and went down to C4 where they arrived aroud 2 pm. They spent night at Lhotse C4 and next day 17 May they went down to C2. On 18 May to BC. Good weather, there were about 15 climbers ahead of them. On 14 May while going to higher camp they had to sleep at C3 due to snowfall and high wind.

  Pandey left on summit World Scout Movement Flag, Messenger of Peace, photo of four martyrs of Nepal, National Youth Council flag, Nepal Scout flag, map of Ramechhap of 3Lals Communist movement in Ramechhap district.

  Oxygen: Pandey from C3-summit-C3, Sherpa from C4-summit-C4.


  Pioneer Adventure Press Release:

  Mount Everest (8848m) south face expedition organized by Pioneer Adventure successfully made summit on 16th May, 17th May, 18th May, 19th May and 22nd May in five groups comprising the following climbers (both national and international).

  The name list of first group of Everest Summiteers made summit on 16th May is as follows:

  1. Mongolian climber Byambasuren (Bambi) (with Lakpa Thendu)
  2. Australian woman climber Samantha McMahon (with Gesman Tamang)
  3. Chinese climber Chang-Juan He (with Mingma Dorchi)
  4. Nepali climber Prakash Raj Pandey (Chhiring Lama)
  5. Nepali climber Chhoki Sherpa (with Pemba Dorje)
   
  Lakpa Thendu Sherpa, Gesman Tamang, Mingma Dorji Sherpa, Tsering Bhote and Pemba Dorji Sherpa accompanied the above expedition members to the summit point.

  The name list of Second group of Everest Summiteers made summit on 17th May is as follows:

  1. Poland climber Szczepan Janusz Brzeski (with Ngima Dorchi Tamang)
  2. Poland climber Magdalena Katarzyna Gorzkowska (with Raj Kumar Tamang)
  3. Nepali climber Phunjo Jangmu Lama (with Pasang Tenji Sherpa)
  4. Indian climber Bhagwan Bhikoba Chawale (with Dorchi Sherpa)
  5. Indian climber Prajit Rasiklal Pardeshi (with Dawa [Finjok] Sherpa)
  6. Nepali climber Dikki Sherpa (with Kami Dorchi Sherpa)

  Ngima Dorchi Sherpa, Raj Kumar Tamang, Pasang Tenji Sherpa, Dorchi Sherpa, Dawa Sherpa and Kami Sherpa accompanied the above expedition members to the summit point.

  The name list of third group of Everest Summiteers made summit on 18th May is as follows:

  1. Switzerland climber Tanya Roller (with Pemba Sherpa)
  2. Nepali climber Narbin Magar (youngest climber) (with Dawa Sherpa)

  Pemba Sherpa and Dawa Sherpa accompanied the above expedition members to the summit point.

  The name list of fourth group of Everest Summiteers made summit on 19th May is as follows:

  1. Indian climber Sangeeta Sindhi Bahl (oldest Indian climber)

  Nga Tenji Sherpa and Lakpa Nurbu Sherpa accompanied the above expedition members to the summit point.

  The name list of fifth group of Everest Summiteers made summit on 22nd May is as follows:

  1. Doma Sherpa (Sherpa female journalist)

  Pasang Sherpa and Chhangba Sherpa accompanied the above expedition members to the summit point.


expid: EVER18131
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Ben Jones
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2018
countries: Canada, Mexico, Poland
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-10
smtdate: 2018-05-22
smttime: 0625
termdate: 2018-05-25
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-181-11)
campsites: BC(10/04,5350m),C1(23/04,5900m),C2(26/04,6440m),C3(19/05,7000m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  BC  10/04  5350m
  C1  23/04  5900m
  C2  26/04  6440m
  C3  19/05  7000m
  C4  20/05  7900m
  Smt 22/05  by Jones, Timmermann, Patry, Swift, Sanchez Fernandez, Karma Sarki,
             Fura Kanchha, Ang Norbu, [Jangbu] at 6:25 am; Murphy, Cheripko, 
             Keaton, Tokarev, Raulin, Ang Pasang, Raj Kumar Magar, Kami Temba,
             Ngima Tenzing, Thukten Dorje at 7:25 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 10:30 pm on 21/05. Straightforward climb. Jones spent two hours on the summit to wait for the rest of his team. The entire team descended to C4, where they arrived between 10:30 and 11:40 am.

  Matthew Brennan reached C1 on 23/04. He spent 3 nights at C1. He had a groin injury which he contracted when playing American football in Khumjung. He took a heli back to Kathmandu on 26/04 to be checked out. He was diagnosed with a torn groin muscle as well as hernia. He flew back to the US.

  Lhotse summit:

  On 22/05 at 11:30 pm Patry, Sanchez Fernandez, Jangbu Sherpa, Karma Sarki, Kami Gyalgen left Everest C4 for Lhotse.

  Smt 23/05  by Patry, Sanchez Fernandez, Jangbu Sherpa, Karma Sarki,
             Kami Gyalgen at 5:30 am.

  After the summit they descended to C2, where they arrived at 10:30 am. The rest of the Everest team reached C2 at 1:30 pm. On 24/05 everyone down to BC.

  Sherpas:
    Raj Kumar Magar
    Kami Temba Sherpa, Thami, 07/07/1994
    Thukten Dorje, Thami, 30/06/1968
    Ngima Tenzing, Thamo, 01/04/1991
    All other Sherpas have been with AAI before

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C2 to top to C2 by members
    From C3 to top to C3 by Murphy, Jones and Jangbu Sherpa
    From C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.


expid: EVER18132
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Chile
leaders: Hernan Leal
sponsor: Fastco Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-22
smtdate: 2018-05-18
smttime: 0845
termdate: 2018-05-22
campsites: BC(22/04,5350m),C1(5900m),C2(01/05,6400m),C3(03/05,7000m),C4(17/05,7900m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  BC  22/04  5350m
  C1   --    5900m
  C2  01/05  6400m
  C3  03/05  7000m
  C4  17/05  7900m
  Smt 18/05  by Leal, Lhakpa Chhiri Sherpa, Lhakpa Wangchu Sherpa at 8:45 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 11 pm on 17/05. Straightforward climb. They spent half an hour on the summit. It was windy. They descended to C4 where they arrived at 1 pm. On 20/05 they left C4 at 2 am. They descended to Lhotse C4, spent 10 minutes there and ascended Lhotse.

  Lhotse smt  20/05  by Leal, Lhakpa Chhiri, Lhakpa Wangchu, Lhakpa Chhiring 
                     at 8:50 am.

  They spent 30 minutes on the summit and descended to Lhotse C4, where they arrived at 1 pm. They rested for about 30 minutes and continued to C2 at 5 pm.

  Ancieta reached C2 on 01/05. He was too tired to continue and abandoned the climb.

  Team left BC on 22/05 by heli.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to summit to C3.


expid: EVER18133
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Chile
leaders: Maria Paz Valenzuela
sponsor: Chilean Everest Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Gokyo->Chola La->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-18
smtdate: 2018-05-19
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2018-05-21
campsites: BC(18/04,5350m),C1(30/04,5900m),C2(01/05,6400m),C3(02/05,7000m),C4(17/05,7900m),Smt(19/05)
achievment: Valenzuela is a breast cancer survivor
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  BC  18/04  5350m
  C1  30/04  5900m
  C2  01/05  6400m
  C3  02/05  7000m
  C4  17/05  7900m
  Smt 19/05  by Valenzuela, Lhakpa Sonam Sherpa, Pasang Gelu Sherpa at 12:30 pm.

  From 01/05 touched C3 and went back to C2, then back to base camp until 15/05. Set off again on 15/05 (early morning) to C2. Left for C3 on 17/05, and reached C4 on 18/05. Left C4 at 20:00 and reached summit at 12:30 on 19/05. Very windy conditions, but sunny and no clouds. Remained on summit 25 mins. Believe they were last people on summit that day.

  Returned to C4, arriving c18:00. To C2 arriving 20/05. Heli down to BC and then KTM on 21/05. Now at CIWEC being treated for frostbite on left foot (realised at C4). Prognosis is good for full recovery however.

  They saw the dead Russian guy between C3 and C4 on return. Were at C2 when Japanese guy was being rescued (Kuriki with Seven Summits).

  Left C2 on 21/05 by heli (rescue) from C2.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 (Sherpas from C4).


expid: EVER18134
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Willie Benegas
sponsor: Benegas Brothers Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-16
smtdate: 2018-05-20
smttime: 0505
termdate: 2018-05-24
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-181-15)
campsites: BC(16/04,5350m),C127/04,5900m(),C2(05/05,6440m),C3(18/05,7000m),C4(19/05,7900m),Smt(20/05)
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  BC  16/04  5350m
  C1  27/04  5900m
  C2  05/05  6440m
  C3  18/05  7000m
  C4  19/05  7900m
  Smt 20/05  by Moniz, Willie Benegas, Pasang Bhote, Chheden Lama Bhote at 5:05 am.

  Team left C4 at 9:30 pm. They were intending to leave at 11:30 pm, but the iPhone had picked up Chinese time so they got the time wrong. They reached the South Summit at 2:30 am. Benegas found a cave where they could wait for about one hour.

  Damian Benegas and Enrique Clausen stayed at the South Col while Moniz and Benegas with the Sherpas summited Everest. Damian spent a few hours collecting rubbish. Clausen carried some gear down to Lhotse C4.

  Summit team spent about 10 minutes on the summit. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 9 am. On 21/05, Benegas brothers, Moniz, Clausen, Dawa Gyalzen and Lobsang left Everest C4 at 5:45 am. They went to the old Lhotse C4 at about 7700m. Damian Benegas cut the rope the Czech climber who died in 2012 was attached to. The body did not move, but it will probably disappear over the next months.

  Lhotse Smt  21/05  by Moniz, Willie and Damian Benegas, Clausen, Dawa Gyalzen Sherpa and Lobsang Sherpa at 11 am.

  They spend about half an hour on the summit. They descended to C4, picked up the gear and reached C2 at 3:45 pm.

  Willie Benegas flew back to C2 on 22/05 (after flying back to Namche with Damai Sarki's body on 21/05), and the whole team descended to BC (cleaned their camps).

  Team left BC on 24/05 by heli.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members and Sherpas.


  Damai Sarki's crevasse fall on 21/05:

  According to Willie Benegas, Damai Sarki was directing the helicopter who had landed in line with a crevasse right next to it. When he stepped back he fell into the crevasse, which was about body-width. It was about 5 pm. This differs from Santalena's account who said that Damai Sarki was on his knees and blown into the crevasse by the force of the wind of the helicopter.

  Nobody really noticed that he was gone. The Sherpas tried to fish him out with a rope, but that did not work. Damian and Willie set up the anchor, Willie descended into the crevasse and brought him up. The helicopter was already waiting (Maurizio Folini) and Willie flew out of C2 with Damai Sarki directly to Namche. They went to hospital, but he could not be saved, Willie thinks he stopped breathing at about 10:45 pm.


expid: EVER18135
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Bipin Pokhrel
sponsor: Nepalese Everest Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-17
smtdate: 2018-05-18
termdate: 2018-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 8382m due to exhaustion
othersmts: Summited Lobuche East (27-28 April)
campsites: BC(17/04,5365m),C1(02/05,6000m),C2(03/05,6500m),C3(16/95,7200m),C4(17/05,7900m),xxx(18/05,8282m)
agency: Happy Feet Mountaineers (Pioneer Adventure pmt)
routememo:
  BC  17/04  5365m
  C1  02/05  6000m (approx.)
  C2  03/05  6500m (approx.)
  C3  16/05  7200m (approx.)
  C4  17/05  7900m
  HPt 18/05  8382m (Balcony)

  On 17 May Bipin and Jangbu started their summit push from C4 at 9 pm. When they reached the Balcony at midnight, Bipin felt very exhausted and decided to give up. They returned to C4 at 1 am on 18 May, same day to C2 and on 19 May to BC.

  Left BC on 21 May by heli to Lukla.

  Oxygen: Bipin from C3-Balcony-C3, Sherpa from C4-Balcony-C4.

  Sherpa:
    Jangbu Sherpa, Khotang

  Other peaks: Lobuche summit 27 or 28 April.


expid: EVER18136
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Purnima Shrestha
sponsor: Nepalese Everest Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-16
smtdate: 2018-05-19
smttime: 0810
termdate: 2018-05-22
othersmts: Summited Lobuche East on 14 April with Hila Nuru
campsites: BC(16/04,5370m),C1(26/04,6000m),C2(27/04,6500m),C3(17/05,7000m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(19/05)
achievment: First photojournalist of Nepal to summit Everest
agency: Sherpa Khangri Outdoor (Pioneer Adventure pmt)
routememo:
  BC  16/04  5370m
  C1  26/04  6000m (approx.)
  C2  27/04  6500m (approx.)
  C3  17/05  7000m (approx.)
  C4  18/05  7900m
  Smt 19/05  by Purnima and Hila Nuru Shepa.

  On 18/05 Purnima and Hila Nuru started their summit push from C4 at 8 pm and reached summit at 8:10 am on 19 May. The summiters stayed on summit between 10-15 minutes and went down to C4 where they arrived aroud 2:30 pm. They spent the night at C2 on 20 May and next day 21 May they went down to BC. Windy morning. There were about 20 to 25 climbers ahead of them.

  Left BC on 22 May by heli.


expid: EVER18137
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Bao Yi-Fei
sponsor: Summit Experience Climbing Team Expedition 2018
countries: Nepal
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-17
smtdate: 2018-05-19
smttime: 0615
termdate: 2018-05-21
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-181-17)
campsites: BC(17/04,5350m),C1(26/04,5900m),C2(27/04,6400m),C3(29/04,7200m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Sherpa Khangri Outdoor (Satori Adventures pmt)
routememo:
  BC  17/04  5350m
  C1  26/04  5900m
  C2  27/04  6400m
  C3  29/04  7200m
  C4  18/05  7900m
  Smt 19/05  by all members (apart from Guo Qiang), Fura Chheten, Singe Tamang, 
             Sonam Bhote, Samden, Kazi, Pemba Tshering, Ngima Nurbu, Pasang Rinzee,
             Ang Tshering Lama, Phu Tashi between 6:15 am and 8:10 am.
             [Luckme Tamang at 9:30 am with Mingmar Dorje?]

  Summit team and Gao started at 8:30 pm on 18/05. It was a busy day. It was about -30C. They stayed between 15 and 30 minutes on the summit. Bao and Luo descended to C2, where they arrived at 6:.10 pm. Everybody else to C4, where they arrived between 1 pm and 4 pm.

  Guo Qiang reached the South Summit at around 7:15 am. The wind was too strong for him and he went down to C4.

  On 20/05 Ma Yan and Singe Tamang traversed to Lhotse C4, where they stayed the night. They left C4 at around midnight.

  Lhotse Smt	21/05  by Ma Yan and Singe Tamang at 7:15 am.

  Left BC: Wu Jun, Hu Ya-Jun, Guo Qiang from C2 on 21/05 by heli; rest of team by heli from BC on 21/05.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 or C2 by all members
    From C4 to summit to C4 by Sherpas.


expid: EVER18138
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Oleg Polyakov
sponsor: Oleg's 328 Everest Expedition 2017
countries: Kazakhstan, Switzerland
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Island Peak->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-28
smtdate: 2018-05-18
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2018-05-20
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(28/04,5350m),C1(30/04,5900m),C2(01/05,6400m),C3(15/05,7000m),C4(16/05,7900m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Namaste Treks
routememo:
  BC  28/04  5350m
  C1  30/04  5900m
  C2  01/05  6400m
  C3  15/05  7000m
  C4  16/05  7900m
  Smt 18/05  by Benovici, Sonam [Chhiring] Sherpa and [Ang} Gombu Sherpa at 7:30 am,
             Polyakov, Zhumayev, Khangdu Sherpa, Mingma [Chhiri] Sherpa at 8 am.

  Summit team stayed an extra night at the South Col as both Benovici and Polyakov were too tired to go on 17/05. They left C4 at 7 pm on 17/05. They overtook many people. Benovici had problems with his mask and finally changed it at 8700m. They spent about an hour on the summit. Benovici had slight problems with his eyes as he had taken off his glasses a few times on the ascent. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 1 pm. Benovici reached C4 at 3 pm. On 19/05 to C2 at 3 pm.

  On 20/05 they were picked up from C2 by helicopter.
  	
  Oxygen:
    From C3 to top to C3 by Zhumayev, Polyakov and Sherpas
    From C2 to top to C2 by Benovici


expid: EVER18139
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Oxana Morneva
sponsor: Makalu Extreme Everest-Lhotse 2018
countries: Australia, Kazakhstan
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Island Peak->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-26
smtdate: 2018-05-23
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2018-05-24
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-181-10); climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(26/04,5350m),C1(30/04,5900m),C2(01/05,6400m),C3(07/05,7000m),C4(22/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Makalu Extreme Treks
routememo:
  BC  26/04  5350m
  C1  30/04  5900m
  C2  01/05  6400m
  C3  07/05  7000m
  C4  22/05  7900m
  Smt 23/05  by Chatur Tamang, Mingma Sherpa, Menskii at 6:30 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 8 pm. Straightforward climb. They stayed at the summit for about half an hour and descended to C2, where they arrived at 8 pm.

  Danyalov was climbing without oxygen and reached the Yellow Band at about 7700m. It got too hard for him and he turned back with Pasang Dorje to C2.

  Kirkwood climbed Island Peak and got sick with the flu. He flew to Kathmandu together with Danyalov to get better. They stayed in hospital for one week and then flew to BC on 26/04. After about 3 or 4 days Kirkwood did not get better and took a helicopter back to Kathmandu.


  Lhotse C4  14/05  7700m
  Lhotse Smt 15/05  by Akkaev, Chatur Tamang, Pasang Lama Bhote, Kippa Sherpa at
                    6:30 am
             16/05  by Morneva, Pasang Dorje, Nima Nuru at 6 am.

  15/05 summit team started at 2 am. They took 4-1/2 hours. They spend about an hour on the summit. Akkaev and Kippa descended to C2.

  Chatur, Pasang Lama stayed at Lhotse C4 on 15/05 and waited for Morneva to come up to Lhotse C4.

  Morneva, Pasang Dorje and Nima Nuru left Lhotse C4 at 8 am. Morneva was already having trouble breathing on the way up. They spent about 5 minutes on the summit.

  Morneva's team descended to C4, where they picked up Chatur and Pasang Lama and they descended to C2, where they arrived at midnight. Morneva did not feel well. She had a sore throat and a fever. On 17/05 they rang a helicopter, but it could not land due to bad weather. She stayed at C2 for another night and broke a rib from coughing. On 18/05 Morneva and Akkaev were picked up by helicopter in the morning. She was taken to Swacon International Hospital, where she stayed until 21/05. She was diagnosed with frostbite in her throat.

  The whole team was affected by the flu at the beginning of the expedition.

  About 60 per cent of the Lhotse couloir was fixed by Mingma Gyalje. The team climbed up on a rope.

  Zakharov reached C1 on 30/04. He was intending to climb without a Sherpa, but realized that he was not able to and left the expedition.

  Rustem Amirov - dead Russian on Lhotse

  Arrived at C4 on 15/05 and was looking for Chatur and Oxana Morneva. He said he did not have tent, sleeping bag or mattress. He asked to sleep in their tent. Pasang Dorje said took him into his tent. Pasang Dorje said that he could stay with them until SST Sherpas arrived and made a tent. There were five people in the tent. Rustem left the tent and SST Sherpas set up a tent where he moved into at around 7 pm. Rustem died on 16/05 at C3.

  Chatur saw him on 16/05 in the morning and Ruskin's face was already blue. Chatur told him to go down as he would die otherwise (as he did).

  Team left BC on 24/05.

  Oxygen: From C2 to top (Lhotse & Everest) to C2 by members and Sherpas

  Sherpas:
    Chatur Tamang (in database)
    Mingma Sherpa, Thame, 45 years old (Everest x7)
    Pasang Lama Bhote (on K2 in 2008 disaster)
    Kipa, Bakachol-9, Khotang, 08/10/1992
    Pasang Dorje, Samde, Khumbu 27/04/1993


expid: EVER18140
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Ryan Waters
sponsor: Mountain Professionals Everest Expedition 2018
countries: Brazil, Norway, Turkey
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-12
smtdate: 2018-05-21
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2018-05-25
campsites: BC(12/04m5350m),C1(19/04,5900m),C2(28/04,6440m),C3(19/05,7100m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(21/05)
achievment: 1st Turkish woman to summit Everest from south side
agency: Himalayan Trailblazer
routememo:
  BC  12/04  5350m
  C1  19/04  5900m
  C2  28/04  6440m
  C3  19/05  7100m
  C4  20/05  7900m
  Smt 21/05  by Harz and Tashi Sherpa at 12:35 pm, Tumbat, Thoen, Waters, Mingma,
             Dawa, Ngima Ongchhu at 1:45 pm.

  Summit team left at 12:30 am. Straightforward climb. They spend about 30 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at between 6 pm and 7:30 pm.

  Ness reached 8006m on 21/05. He reached C4 on 20/05 and was very tired and did not feel strong enough to go up on 21/05, but could stay for another night. However, the team had NINE oxygen bottles stolen at C4, so there was not enough oxygen for him to stay another day and night and then go to the summit. He stayed at C4 on 21/05 and walked up to 8006m to break the 8000m mark.

  On 22/05 everyone down to BC and left BC on 25/05 by heli.

  Oxygen: Taken and used C3 to top C3 by members, from C4 by Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Riten Jangbu (Tashi), Sindulpalchowk 18/05/1983
    Mingma Chhiri Sherpa, Chaurikharka, 04/01/90
    Ngima Ongchhu, Chaurikharka, 28/03/1985
    Dawa Sherpa (worked for Himalayan Guides) [Da Chhettar]


expid: EVER18141
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Patrick Arnoult
sponsor: French Everest Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Lobuche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-18
smtdate: 2018-05-18
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2018-05-21
campsites: BC(18/84,5350m),C1(5900m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(16/05,7000m),C4(17/05,7900m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking (High Alt Dreams pmt)
routememo:
  BC  18/04  5350m
  C1    --   5900m
  C2  25/04  6400m
  C3  16/05  7000m
  C4  17/05  7900m
  Smt 18/05  by Arnoult, Pasang Nuru at 8:30 am.

  Team left C4 at 8:30 pm on 17/05. Straightforward climb. Weather was good. No wind. Around 40 people in front of them. They stayed about 40 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 3 pm.

  On 19/05 they descended to C2 and on 20/05 to BC. Team left BC on 21/05 by heli.

  Oxygen: Taken from C3 to summit to C3 by Pasang Nuru and Arnoult.


expid: EVER18142
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Chen Guang
sponsor: Chen Guang Everest Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-24
smtdate: 2018-05-18
smttime: 0945
termdate: 2018-05-22
campsites: BC(24/04,5350m),C1(27/04,5900m),C2(02/05,6440m),C3(16/05,7000m),C4(17/05,7900m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  24/04  5350m
  C1  27/04  5900m
  C2  02/05  6440m
  C3  16/05  7000m
  C4  17/05  7900m
  Smt 18/05  by Guang Chen, Jangbu Sherpa at 9:45 am.

  Team left C4 at 8:30 pm on 17/05. Straightforward climb. They spent about 40 minutes on the summit. They descended to C4, where they arrived at about 3 pm.

  On 19/05 down to C2, BC on 20/05. Left BC on 22/05 by trek to Lukla.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by member
    From C4 to top to C4 by Sherpa.


expid: EVER18143
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Rojita Buddhacharya
sponsor: First Women Journalist Everest Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-26
smtdate: 2018-05-23
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2018-05-29
campsites: BC(26/04,5300m),C1(03/05,6200m),C2(04/05,6400m),C3(21/05,7200m),C4(22/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
accidents: Rojita and Priya Laxmi minor symptoms of HAS due to lack of oxygen
agency: Dreamers Destination Treks
routememo:
  BC  26/04  5300m
  C1  03/05  6200m
  C2  04/05  6400m
  C3  21/05  7200m
  C4  22/05  7900m
  Smt 23/05  by Rojita, Rosha, Kalpana, Deuralee, Kanchhi Maya Tamang, Dakipa,  
             Lakpa Nuru, Pemba [Sonam], Pemba Chhiri, Pemba Dorje, Phurba Tenjing,
             Phurba Thile and Gyabo Tamang.

  Oxygen: Members from the base of C3-summit-C3; Sherpas C4-summit-C4.

  On 22/05 Rojita, Rosha, Kalpana, Deuralee, Kanchhi Maya Tamang, Dakipa, Lakpa Nuru, Pemba [Sonam], Pemba Chhiri, Pemba Dorje, Phurba Tenjing, Phurba Thile and Gyabo Tamang started their summit push from C4 at 7 pm. Rojita, Phurba Tenjing, Deuralee and Pemba Chhiri reached summit at 6 am on 23/05 and they stayed on summit an hour; the rest of members reached summit at 7:45 am and stayed on summit about 30 minutes. They got back to C4 between 2 to 4 pm. Next day 24 May they spent night at C2 and following day went down to BC. This was the first team to reach summit on that day.

  Priya Laxmi high point was C3 on 21/05; she suffered from HAS.

  Left BC: 2 members on 26/05 by heli; 3 members on 29/05 from Gorak Shep by heli.

achievment:
  1st Women Journalists of Nepal to summit Everest
  4 siblings from Beding (Pemba Dorje, Phurba Tenzing, Phurba Thile and Dawa Diki)


expid: EVER18144
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Cen Gu-Yu
sponsor: Dreamer's Destination Treks Everest Expedition 2018
countries: Malaysia, USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-20
smtdate: 2018-05-16
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2018-05-20
campsites: BC(20/04,5350m),C2(30/04,6400m),C3(13/05,7000m),C4(14/05,7900m),Smt(16,23/05)
agency: Dreamers Destination Treks
routememo:
  BC  20/04   5350m
  C1  Skipped 5900m
  C2  30/04   6400m
  C3  13/05   7000m
  C4  14/05   7900m
  Smt 16/05   by all four foreigners and the four Sherpas at 10 am
  Smt 23/05   by Cen Gu-Yu summited with Buddhacharya team.

  Straightforward climb. Perfect weather, virtually no wind and clear skies. Queues encountered from C4 to summit. Delayed by "hours", virtually stationary at times. Stayed on summit 15 mins. Returned to C4 from summit, arriving 16/05 approx 5 pm. Overnight in C4, down to C2 on 17/05. Arrived back at BC on 18/05.

  Left BC on 20/05 by heli to Ktmdu, except Cen Gu-Yu who remained and summited with Buddhacharya team on 23/05.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to summit; same by all Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Dorje
    Lhakpa Nuru
    Bis Bahadur Gurung
    Phurba Thile Sherpa


expid: EVER18145
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Mingma Gyalje Sherpa
sponsor: Imagine Nepal Everest Expedition 2018
countries: Canada, China
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-09
smtdate: 2018-05-14
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2018-05-16
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East on 14/04
agency: Imagine Nepal
campsites:
  BC(09/04,5350m),C1(20/04,6000m),C2(21/04,6400m),C3(11/05,7100m),C4(12/05,7900m),C5(13/05,8400m),Smt(14/05)

routememo:
  BC  09/04  5350m
  C1  20/04  6000m
  C2  21/04  6400m
  C3  11/05  7100m
  C4  12/05  7900m
  C5  13/05  8400m (below balcony) by Xia Bo-Yu, Lu, Dawa Gyalje, Kilu Pemba
  Smt 14/05  by Nima Jangbu Sherpa (sister of Mingma Gyalje), Lok-Kee Siu, Tamding
             Sherpa, Nima Dorjee, Gao Li at 7 am, Liu and Pasang Gombu Sherpa at 
             7:15 am, Lees, Dendi Sherpa at 7:30 am, Lu, Xia Bo-Yu, Yan, Kami Rita,
             Dawa Gyalje Sherpa, Kilu Pemba at 7:45 am.

  Xia Bo-Yu, Lu, Dawa Gyalje, Kilu Pemba left C5 at 9:30 pm on 13/03; the rest of the summiters and Mingma Gyalje and Song set out at 8 pm from C4. Xia climbed some of the sections on all fours. The weather started off very calm, but got very windy when they reached the Balcony. Lightning going on in the distance. When they reached the summit ridge, winds died down again. They spent between 5 and 20 minutes on the summit. 

  Everyone descended to C4, where they arrived between 1:30 pm and 8 pm. 

  On 15/04, everyone descended to C2. During the descent on the bottom of the Lhotse face, Lok-Kee was hit by a big block of ice (half the size of a fridge) on his left leg (at about 7:30 pm). Tamding was with Lok-Kee when it happened, but fortunately did not get hit. The rescue group arrived at around 10 pm. They wrapped him into a plastic sheet and carried him to C2, where they arrived at about 3:30 am on 16/04. Lok-Kee, Xia and Yan were evacuated by helicopter on 16/04. Lok-kee has a broken calf, Xia and Yan had slight frostbite on their hands. Lu also took the helicopter as he was accompanying Xia.

  Song reached to about 8600m. He turned back due to the weather and had problems with his oxygen mask.

  Mingma Gyalje (not using oxygen) stopped at the South Summit to wait for his team members and support the group. Apparently he stayed there for about two hours and then descended to C4. He developed a bad chest infection during the night and got quite weak. He descended to C2 the next day and was helivaced to Kathmandu. He is at CIWEC clinic with a bad chest infection, maybe HAPE.

  Lees, Liu, Song, Nima Jangbu descended to C2 on 16/02. They took a helicopter back to Kathmandu the same day.

  Nima Jangbu had summited Lhotse on 29/04. After scaling Everest she went to Kangchenjunga and summited on 23/05 at 6:20 am.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C3 to top to between C3 and C2 by members and Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Tamtin (Thomting, Tamding), Beding, 20/12/1974
    Ngima Dorje
    Dawa Gyalje
    Kilu Pemba
    Dendi Sherpa (long hair) (x5 Everest, x1 Kangch)
    Kami Rita (Everest x16)
    Pasang Gomba (Everest x6)

  Tea slso climbed Lobuche East on 14/04


expid: EVER18146
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Gabriel Filippi
sponsor: Dream Team 2018 Everest Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Lobuche East>Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-13
smtdate: 2018-05-18
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2018-05-21
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East
campsites: BC(13/04,5350m),C1(29/04,5900m),C2(30/04,6440m),C3(1605,7000m),C4(17/05,7900m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Mountain Tribes Trekking (High Alt Dreams pmt)
routememo:
  BC  13/04  5350m
  C1  29/04  5900m
  C2  30/04  6440m
  C3  16/05  7000m
  C4  17/05  7900m
  Smt 18/05  by Massad, Tremblay, Chhewang Rinzing Sherpa at 9 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 9 pm on 17/05. Straighforward climb. The stayed on the summit for half an hour. Massad descended to C3 and stayed there. He was too tired to carry on. Tremblay and Chhewang went to C2, where they arrived at 9 pm. Massad descended to C2 on 19/05 and to BC on 20/05.

  Chhiring Sherpa set out with the summit team, but turned back at the Balcony due to cold feet.

  Beliveau reached base of Lhotse Face (6800m). He had come back from Lobuche Peak where he had peed blood releasing a kidney stone. He felt good afterwards and did two rotations on Everest, but the pain came back and the doctors at BC found that he may have more kidney stones. He was helicoptered back to Kathmandu on 05/05. He was diagnosed with two more kidney stones and he left Kathmandu for Canada on 10/05.

  Gabriel Filippi never intended to climb. He was the BC Manager.

  Team left BC on 21/05 by trek to Lukla.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members, Sherpas from C4.

  Sherpas:
    Chhewang Rinzing Sherpa, Taksindu-5, 02/08/1971
    Chhiring Sherpa, Khotang, 3x Everest, 1x Lhotse (2017)
      (his brother is Ang Gelu (sirdar for a UK girl Linda Everest/Lhotse 2018)


expid: EVER18147
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Craig Van Hoy
sponsor: Mountain Tribes Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2018
countries: UK
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-08
smtdate: 2018-05-17
smttime: 0748
termdate: 2018-05-20
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-181-24)
campsites: BC(08/04,5350m),C1(24/04,5900m),C2(26/05,6440m),C3(15/05,7000m),C4(16/05,7900m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Mountain Tribes Trekking (High Alt Dreams pmt)
routememo:
  BC  08/04  5350m
  C1  24/04  5900m
  C2  26/05  6440m
  C3  15/05  7000m
  C4  16/05  7900m
  Smt 17/05  Blakely, Ang Gelu Sherpa, Sonam Sherpa, Nima Sherpa at 7:48 am.

  Lhotse Smt 18/05 by Blakely, Ang Gelu at 11 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 11 pm on 16/05. Straightforward climb. They spent about 30 minutes on the summit. They descended to C4, where they arrived about 1:30 pm.

  On 18/05 Blakely and Ang Gelu left C4 at 4:30 am, traversed to Lhotse C4, where they arrived at 5:30 am and continued straight to Lhotse summit. They spent about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at 6 pm.

  Wood reached C2 on the first rotation. On the descent he took a fall when he flicked the rope and injured his shoulder. He descended to BC and took a helicopter to Kathmandu on 28/05.

  Van Craig was BC manager.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to both tops to C3 by Sherpas and Blakely.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Gelu, Phedi-9, Khotang, 28/04/1986
    Sonam
    Nima


expid: EVER18148
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Marco Zaffaroni
sponsor: Prestige Adventure Everest Expedition 2018
countries: India, Iran, Poland
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-05-14
smtdate: 2018-05-18
smttime: 0800
campsites: BC(14/05,5350m),C1(5900m),C2(6400m),C3(7100m),C4(7900m),Smt(18,23/05)
agency: Prestige Adventure (Satori Adventures pmt)
routememo:
  The Prestige Adventure expedition was a combination of four independent teams (1 climber each). Prestige Adventure provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Marco Zaffaroni (Italy)

  Name:  Everest Stile Gitante 
  Camps: BC(22/04,5350m),C1(26/04,5900m),C2(27/04,6400m),C3(17/05,7100m),
         xxx(18/05,7800m)
  Left:  20/05/2018
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 7800m due to Tendi Sherpa being too tired to continue

  Zaffroni abandoned climb due to his Sherpa, who was too tired to continue. They descended to C2. Zaffaroni stayed there for two nights as he was contemplating going back up again, but abandoned the idea.

  Zaffaroni left BC on 20/05 by heli to Lukla.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to high point (descended without O2).

  Sherpa:
    Tendi Sherpa


  Mehrdad Shahlaei (Iran)

  Camps: BC(17/04,5350m),C1(25/04,5900m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(06/05,7000m),
         C4(17/05,7900m),Smt(18/05)
  Left:  20/05/2018
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success (8 am)

  Shahlaei and Chhebi Bhote left C4 at 8 pm on 17/05, summited 8 am on 18/05, stayed one hour, then descended to C4. Suffered from snowblindness during night at C4. Descended with Sherpa to C2, arriving 19/05. Evacuated from C2 to hospital in Ktmdu on 20/05, released 22/05.

  Apparently summit was very busy, "dozens of climbers."

  Climbed Island Peak after first Everest BC stay.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C33 to summit; same by Sherpa.

  Sherpa:
    Chhebi Bhote


  Megha Parmar (India)

  Term: Success (10:45 am)

  Sherpa:
    Ngima Nuru


expid: EVER18149
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Damien Francois
sponsor: Damien Francois Everest Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-05
smtdate: 2018-05-17
termdate: 2018-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 7650m due to heat and mental stress
campsites: BC(05/04,5350m),C1(18/04,5900m),C2(25/04,6440m),C3(16/05,7000m),xxx(17/05,7650m)
agency: Ever Quest Expeditions
routememo:
  BC  05/04  5350m (after arrival at BC they climbed Island Peak)
  C1  18/04  5900m
  C2  25/04  6440m
  C3  16/05  7000m
  HPt 17/05  7650m  by Francois, Temba Bhote at 10 am (Yellow Band).

  HP team left C3 at 7 am on 17/05. The weather was very calm and hot. When they reached the upper tents of C3, they saw the dead Russian in one of the tents. Also next to the tent of the dead Russian, he saw a Sherpa who was obviously dying and not very well. He was dressed in sort of 1980's clothes and had an old sleeping bag. They continued to go up as Temba said that somebody else was looking after him.

  When he reached the high point, Francois got too hot and had to turn back. He was also mentally not well as he had seen the dead Russian and the dying Sherpa in C3. After they turned back, they stopped at C3 again, but the Sherpa was gone. They continued to descend to C2, where they arrived at 4 pm.

  Team left BC on 21/05.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to high point to C3.

  Sherpa:
    Temba Bhote


expid: EVER18150
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Choi Im-Bok
sponsor: Gyeongsang National University Alpine Club Everest Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-12
smtdate: 2018-05-17
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2018-05-20
campsites: BC(12/04,5400m),C1(20/04,6000m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(04/05,7200m),C416/05,7900m(),Smt(17/05)
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal
routememo:
  BC  12/04  5400m
  C1  20/04  6000m
  C2  24/04  6400m
  C3  04/05  7200m
  C4  16/05  7900m
  Smt 17/05  by Choi Im-Bok with 3 Sherpas.

  Started on 16/05 from C4 at 8:30 pm, summited on 17/05 at 7:30 am, back to C4 at noon, then to C2 at 6:40 pm. Next day 18/05 back to BC.

  Kang Dae-Chul – HP at C3 (stamina power problem).

  Kim Jong-Beom – HP at C3 (high-altitude sickness (headache)).

  Team left BC on 20/05.

  Oxygen: Taken from C4 to summit to C4 (not used for sleeping)

  Sherpas:
    Chinjung Bhote, Hatiya-1, 28 years old 
    Sangbu Lama, Hatiy-a2, 30 years old
    Sangbu Bhote, 18 years old
    (All 3 of them went to the top with Choi Im-Bok)


expid: EVER18151
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Choi Jin-Chul
sponsor: Pion Everest Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-07
smtdate: 2018-04-07
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2018-05-21
campsites: BC(07/04,5300m),C2(16/04,6400m),C3(09/05,7000m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal
routememo:
  BC  07/04  5300m
  C2  16/04  6400m
  C3  09/05  7000m
  C4  15/05  7900m
  Smt 16/05  by Choi Jin-Chul, Jeon Jae-Min, Phurba Sherpa.

  Started 10:3 0pm from C4 on 15/05, summited at 11:30 am (Choi) & 12 pm (Jeon) on 16/05, back to C3 at 1:30 am on 17/05 in the night. Back to BC on May 17/05.

  Jeon Jae-Min had regulator problem at the Balcony.

  Kim Song-Hee stayed at BC (didn't climb above base camp).

  Team left BC on May 21/05.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from to C3 to summit to C3 (not used sleeping).

  Sherpas:
    Phurba Sherpa to the top with 2 members
    Nurbu Sherpa stoppef at C4 (had regulator problem, liquid from the regulator)
    Kaji Sherpa went little above C4, but stopped as he wasn't feeling well


expid: EVER18152
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: Khumbu Icefall-W Shoulder-N Face (Hornbein)
nation: Romania
leaders: Horia Colibasanu
sponsor: Everest Hornbein Expedition 2018
countries: Slovakia
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-15
smtdate: 2018-05-04
termdate: 2018-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to dangerous conditions
campsites: BC(15/04,5350m),C1(20/04,5900m),C2(21/04,6440m),xxxx(04/05,7000m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  BC  15/04  5350m
  C1  20/04  5900m
  C2  21/04  6440m
  HPt 04/05  7000m  by Hamor and Colibasanu.

  The team tried to ascend via the West Shoulder and then traverse over to the Hornbein Couloir. They ascended the West Shoulder four times and every time they went up they fixed a bit more rope. The first time they ascended on the far right, however, the conditions were not good (blue ice) so they moved farther to the left. They attempted the route four times. The last time they were fixing the rope it was very windy and they descended on 04/05.

  They left BC on 22/05 by trekking.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


expid: EVER18153
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Wojtek Gawron
sponsor: Satori Adventures Everest Expedition 2018
countries: India, Japan
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-11
smtdate: 2018-05-18
campsites: BC(11/04,5350m),C1(20/04,6000m),C2(21/04,6400m),C3,C4(7900m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Satori Adventures
routememo:
  From Himalayan Times - 18 May 2018

  Likewise, according to Rishi Bhandari, Managing Director at Satori Adventure Treks and Expedition, at least four members along with six climbing Sherpas scaled Mt Everest this morning. “Nakayama Takeshi, Jhingan Sauraj, Dimri Vikas Shambhu Prasad and Patham Samir Nicholas climbed the mountain,” he said. “Lakpa Tasi Sherpa, Dawa Temba Sherpa, Bibek Pandey, Pemba Tashi Sherpa, Tendi Lama and Lhakpa Tenji Sherpa accompanied the climbers to the summit point.”


expid: EVER18154
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Sauraj Jhingan
sponsor: Force Motors Everest Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Lobuche East->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-14
smtdate: 2018-05-18
smttime: 0617
termdate: 2018-05-20
campsites: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(26/04,5900m),C2(27/04,6440m),C3(16/05,7000m),C4(17/05,7900m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Satori Adventures
routememo:
  BC  14/04  5350m
  C1  26/04  5900m
  C2  27/04  6440m
  C3  16/05  7000m
  C4  17/05  7900m
  Smt 18/05  by Jhingan, Dawa Temba, Patham, Pemba Tashi at 6:17 am.

  Team set out at 8:30 pm on 17/05. Conditions good, not too busy. Straightforward climb. They spent about 45 minutes and descended to C2, where they arrived at 6:30 pm. On 19/05 back to BC.

  Team left BC on 20/05: Jhingan by heli to Kathmandu, Patham trekked to Lukla.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members and Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Temba, Yaphu-9, Makalu-Barun, 08/07/1989
    Pemba Tashi, Yaphu-6, Makalu-Barun, 28/09/1993


expid: EVER18155
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Todd Passey
sponsor: Grand Himalayan Treks Everest Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-15
smtdate: 2018-05-18
smttime: 0645
termdate: 2018-05-21
campsites: BC(15/04,5350m),C1(23/04,5900m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(16/05,7000m),C4(17/05,7900m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Grand Himalaya Treks
routememo:
  BC  15/04  5350m
  C1  23/04  5900m
  C2  25/04  6400m
  C3  16/05  7000m
  C4  17/05  7900m
  Smt 18/05  by Passey, Timpano, Cuthbert, Namgya Sherpa, Ngima Chhiring Lama, 
             Pemba Nuru Sherpa at 6:45 am.

  On 17/05 team left C4 at 8:45 pm. Straightforward climb. They stayed about 30 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 12 noon. On 19/05 they descended to C2; on 20/05 all in BC.

  Team left BC on 21/05 by heli.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from 6600m to top to C2 by Cuthbert
    From C3 to top to C3 by members and Sherpas

  Sherpas:
    Namgya Sherpa, Taplejung, 11/08/1971
    Ngima Chhiring Lama, Yamphudin-3, Taplejung, 15/09/1973
    Pemba Nuru, Chaurikharka-2, Khumbu


expid: EVER18156
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: William Sayer
sponsor: Everest 2.0 Expedition 2018
countries: USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Island Peak->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-22
smtdate: 2018-05-18
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2018-05-22
campsites: BC(22/04,5350m),C1(29/04,5900m),C2(30/04,6400m),C3(04/05,7000m),C4(17/05,7900m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Alpine Sherpa Guide Treks (Happy Feet pmt)
routememo:
  BC  22/04  5350m
  C1  29/04  5900m
  C2  30/04  6400m
  C3  04/05  7000m
  C4  17/05  7900m
  Smt 18/05  by Sayer, Lochmiller, Ang Dawa at 8:30 am.

  Summit team, Tshiring Jangbu and Pasang Tendi Sherpa (first time on Everest) left C4 at 9:20 pm on 17/05. Good day. Pasang Tendi Sherpa and Tshiring Jangbu turned back at the Balcony. Tshiring had problems with his oxygen mask and Pasang Tendi had cold feet. Pasang Tendi descended to C2, Tshiring Jangbu to C4. Rest of the team continued. They stayed about an hour on the summit. It was a warm and calm day.

  They descended to C4, where they arrived at 3 pm. The following day summit team and Tshiring Jangbu descended to C2. On 20/05 Tshiring Jangbu and Lochmiller took a helicopter from C2 as Lochmiller's mother had passed away the same day he summited. Lochmiller flew back to Kathamndu the same day. Sayer and Ang Dawa walked to BC on 20/05 and left BC on 22/05 by trekking to Lukla.

  Oxygen: From C3 to top to C3 by members and Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Dawa, Kharikhola, 18/11/1984 
    Tshiring Jangbu, Rakshikharka, Lokhim-9, 01/08/1977


expid: EVER18157
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Sweden
leaders: Per Sunnemark
sponsor: Swedish Everest Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Island Peak->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-15
smtdate: 2018-05-18
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2018-05-20
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak on 13 April
campsites: BC(18/05,5400m),C1(20/04,6000m),C2(21/04,6500m),C3(29/04,7300m),C4(17/05,8000m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Adventure Ascent (Happy Feet pmt)
routememo:
  BC  15/04  5400m
  C1  20/04  6000m
  C2  21/04  6500m
  C3  29/04  7300m
  C4  17/05  8000m
  Smt 18/05  by Per and Nawang Nuri Sherpa at 8:30 am.

  Summit team and Pemba started from C4 at 8:30 pm on 17/05, summited at 8:30 am on 18/05, back that day to C2 at 10 pm. Day after to BC at 8 pm on 19/05.

  Left on 20/05 by heli (organized by Pemba).

  Pemba Sherpa turned back at the Balcony because of cold feet.

  Oxygen:
    Taken from way between C3-4 to summit to C3 (used at C4 for resting,
    few hours). No stay at C3, straight to C2.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Sherpa, Patle-4, Okhaldhunga, 06/01/1980
    Nawang Nuri Sherpa, Patle-4, Okhaldhunga, 15/05/1979

  A German guy [Ulrich Eckhard] with Per left before the end of his expedition (not in same team).

  Per Sunnemark climbed Island peak 30 years ago with same ice axe.


expid: EVER18158
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Wang Tie-Nan
sponsor: Kaitu Everest Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-16
smtdate: 2018-05-16
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2018-05-19
campsites: BC(16/04,5300m),C1(26/04,6000m),C2(27/04,6400m),C3(14/05,7315m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Kaitu Expedition
routememo:
  BC  16/04  5300m
  C1  26/04  6000m
  C2  27/04  6400m approx.
  C3  14/05  7315m approx.
  C4  15/05  7900m approx.
  Smt 16/05  by Wang, Sun, Li Wei, Gao, Ma, Li Chun-Sheng, Nima Tenji, 
             Pema Chhiring, Mingma Chhiri, Dawa Tashi, Nima Gyaljen, Ang Pemba, 
             Iman Gurung and Ang Dawa at 8 am.

  The summit team of six members started from C4 at 9:30 pm on 15 May with 8 Sherpas and reached summit at 8 am on 16 May. They stayed on summit two hours taking pictures and back to C4 at around 3 pm. Next day, 17 May they spent the night at C2 and the following day 18 May they went down to BC. The summit day weather was very good. There were about 20 climbers ahead of the team and behind them around 16 climbers.

  Left BC on 19 May by heli.

  Record: Wang oldest from Xinjiang province.

  Oxygen: Members from C3-summit-C3, Sherpas from C4-summit-C4.

  Sherpas:
    Nima Tenji, 1980/08/24, Gaurishankar-9 (Ward-1)
    Pema Chhiring, Gaurishankar-9 (Ward-1)
    Mingma Chhiri, Gaurishankar-9 (Ward-1)
    Dawa Tashi, Gaurishankar-9 (Ward-1)
    Nima Gyaljen, Gaurishankar-9 (Ward-1)
    Ang Pemba, Gaurishankar-9 (Ward-1)
    Iman Gurung, Laprak
    Ang Dawa, new from Gaurishankar-9


expid: EVER18159
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: SW Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Nobukazu Kuriki
sponsor: Kuriki Everest SW Face Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
smtdate: 2018-05-19
termdate: 2018-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to fatal fall
campsites: BC(5350m),C2(6400m),C3(19/05,7400m),xxx
agency: Bochi Bochi Treks
routememo:
  From Alan Arnette's blog:

  Stunning news that Japanese climber Nobukazu Kuriki was found dead at Camp 2 on the Nepal side of Everest on the Standard route. The Himalayan Times reports that Sherpas found him at C2. I had just reported that he was feeling better after a cough and was prepared to go higher on an unspecified route. He had struggled in 2018 with a high fever and a cough. Personally, I am shocked as I always found his climbs inspirational.

  Update: Its now being reported that he reached C3 on the Lhotse Face and began to have problems with coughing and pain. Intermittent radio contact prevented searchers from finding him and he was missing around 11:30 pm. His body was finally found above Camp 2 in the morning.


expid: EVER18161
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kenji Kondo
sponsor: Adventure Guides Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Lobuche Peak->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-26
smtdate: 2018-05-20
smttime: 1015
termdate: 2018-05-24
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-181-16)
campsites: BC(26/04,5350m),C1(01/05,6000m),C2(03/05,6400m),C3(18/05,7100m),C4(19/05,7950m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Plan: Group will try to climb Everest first and Lhotse immediately after. Their plan is to sleep 2 nights at South Col after Everest and traverse from South Col to the Lhotse couloir (Urubko route), joining the normal route eventually. Descent via normal route of Lhotse.

  Summit team left C4 between 10-11 pm, summited at 10:15 am, stayed 15 to 60 minutes, then descended to C4. It was very windy.

  Lhotse: Toyohara smt 21/05, Fukunaga to 8350m?


expid: EVER18163
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Zheng Chao-Hui
sponsor: Good Luck Everest Expedition 2018
countries: Norway
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
smtdate: 2018-05-16
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(16/05)
agency: Seven Brothers Summiters
routememo:
  Climbing Guide:
    Nima Gombu Sherpa

  Climbing Sherpa:
    Karma Gyaljen Sherpa
    Ningma Dorje Tamang
    Dawa Tenji Sherpa
    Mingmar Sherpa
    Darinji Sherpa


  Han Xiao - 28 Aug 2018

  Han Xiao stopped at 8820m for religious/spiritual reasons; his Sherpa continued on to the summit:

    https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s/CqDSCOiLdpw1E0Bcll2a-Q


expid: EVER18164
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Tamut Taka, Kishon Tekseng
sponsor: Indian Everest Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
smtdate: 2018-05-24
smttime: 0900
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(24/05)
agency: Happy Feet Mountaineers
routememo:
  From Arunachal24.in:

  Kishon Tekseng from Yingkiong Upper Siang District and Taka Tamut from Jomlo Mongku, Siang District summit the Mt Everest on 24th May at 9 am after gruelling 13 hours nonstop climbed without any support staff.

  In a press release from Sports & Youth Affairs department, Joint Director Ramehs Lingi said that our climbers climbed without any support from the last camp to Mt Everest without help from sherpas.

  Unfortunately one of their Sherpa got head injury during the climb at Camp – III due to shooting rocks and gone to unconscious. He rescued by rescue helicopter, now he had done head surgery at Katmandu in a critical condition.

  With the another Sherpa they managed to reached up to camp IV, the last camp. Luck was not favoured the team again, another Sherpa got high altitude sickness (HAS) and unable to proceed with them for the final summit assault.


expid: EVER18166
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Alex Abramov
sponsor: Seven Summits Club Everest Expedition 2018
countries: Nepal, Poland, Ukraine
approach: Flight to Lhasa->Xigatse->Xegar->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-22
smtdate: 2018-05-16
smttime: 0540
termdate: 2018-05-21
accidents: Pasang Nuru died in summit attempt (from AMS or exhaustion)
agency: 7 Summits Adventure
campsites:
  BC(22-25/04,5100m),IC(28/04,5800m),ABC(01/05,6400m),C1(05/05,7000m),C2(07/05,7900m),C3(15/05,8300m),Smt(16-19/05)

routememo:
  BC  22,24-25/05 5100m
  IC  28/05  4800m
  ABC 01/05  6400m
  C1  05/05  7000m
  C2  07/05  7900m
  C3  16/05  8300m
  Smt 16/05  by Ms. Lakpa, Kasang Dawa at 5:40 am
  Smt 17/05  by Team 1 consisting of 10 members and  9 Sherpas
  Smt 18/05  by Team 2 consisting of  9 members and 10 Sherpas
  Smt 19/05  by Team 3 consisting of 10 members and  8 Sherpas.

  Team 1 left C3 at 11 pm (NST) of 16 May and got to the top between 5-5:30 am of 17 May all together. They stayed on summit between 30 minutes to one hour and got back to C3 between 9 am to 12 noon. Same day all went down to ABC.

  Team 2 left C3 at 10 pm of 17 May for the summit and got to the top at 7 am of 18 May. They stayed on summit for an hour and returned C3 at 11 am, then continued to ABC except Kochubeev who spent night at North Col and next day went down to ABC.

  Team 3 started from C3 between 10-11 pm slowly on 18 May and got to the summit between 7-9:30 am of 19 May. They stayed on summit 30 minutes and returned C3 at 10 am, last one arrived at 3:30 pm. Then got back to ABC. 3 guides and 2 clients slept at N Col and next day to ABC.

  Accidents: Pasang Nurbu climbing with Team 1: body found face down dead in the mushroom area. He was the last one in the team and was very slow; client told him to go back, but he continued. Body found by the team on their descent.

  Team 1: Summit on 17 May
    Members (10): 
      Abramov, Balakin, Belkovich, Logachev, Popov, Semeshkin, Suchanski,
      Alexander Tertychnyy, Dmitry Tertychnyy, Tomilin
    Sherpas (9):
      Ang Dorchi, Lakpa Gyaljen, Lakpa Nurbu, Mingma Dorchi, Mingma Tenje,
      Nima Dindu, Nurbu Chhiring, Nurbu, Pasang

  Team 2: Summit on 18 May
    Members (8):
      Kochubeev, Kotlyar, Markevich, Mezova, Rostovtsev, Safonov, 
      Shakhnovvskiyy, Zelenkova
    Sherpas (10):
      Lakpa Galu, Lakpa Gyaljen, Lakpa Tenji, Ngima Ongda, Nurbu,
      Pasang, Pemba Dorjee, Pemba Nurbu, Richung, Rinjen

  Team 3: Summit on 19 May
    Members (10):
      Bakulin, Demyanenko, Ermakov, Gurgov, Iunusov, Iunusova,
      Mariev, Murtazina, Samarina, Shakirov
    Sherpas (8):
      Ang Dawa, Ang Dawa, Dorchi, Lakpa, Muktu Lakpa, Nurbu, 
      Phurbu Kusang, Sange

  High Points:
    Kovalov to 7900m – throat problem
    Borkov to 8700m (3rd Step)

  Fixed rope: contributed money.

  Oxygen: Members from ABC-summit-ABC, Sherpas from 8300m-summit-8300m.

  Records:
    1. Alexander and Dimtry Tertychnyy (father and son completed 7 Summits together)
    2. Dimtry Tertychnyy youngest to summit from Europe
    3. Ms. Samarina  youngest woman from Russia
    4. Alex Abramov nine times summit Russian record
    5. Mrs. Mezova second time summit
    6. Ms. Lakpa summited nine times
    7. Demyanenko and Mrs Murtazina couple completed 7 Summits
    8. Iunusov and Mrs. Iunusova couple sumitted


expid: EVER18167
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Arnold Coster
sponsor: Arnold Coster Expeditions International Everest 2018
countries: Belgium, Bulgaria, Denmark, France, New Zealand, Sweden, UK, USA
approach: Lhasa->Tingri-> Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-18
smtdate: 2018-05-20
smttime: 0330
termdate: 2018-05-25
campsites: CBC(18/04,4900m),ABC(24/04,6400m),C1(30/04,7050m),C2(18/05,7900m),C3(19/05,8200m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  CBC 18/04  4900m
  ABC 24/04  6400m
  C1  30/04  7050m
  C2  18/05  7900m
  C3  19/05  8200m
  Smt 20/05  by Maxwell and Chhangwa Sherpa at 3:30 am, Fuchs and Wangdi Sherpa at
             4:15 am, Chapman and Pasang Gelje at 4:45 am, Scholin Voglis and Dawa
             Chhiring Sherpa at 6:15 am, Stefanov and Kalden Sherpa at 6:30 am,
             Wittevrongel and Nima Tendu at 8:50 am.

  Summit team left C3 at 9 pm on 19/05. Straightforward climb. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit and everyone apart from Maxwell and Chhangwa (who stayed at C1) descended to ABC.

  De Wolf reached 7500m on 18/05. She was going too slowly and was turned around by Coster.

  Kedrowski and Kragh tried to summit without oxygen on 19/05 from C2, which they left on 7 pm on 18/05. Kedrowski stopped and turned back at around 8500m between the ridge and C3 due to strong winds. Kragh reached about 8600m, but the winds also proved too strong for him and he stopped. Both Kedrowski and Kragh descended to ABC the same day.

  Fuchs (also separate ON RETURN) also tried without O2 on 19/05. She reached about 8400m. She abandoned her attempt due to strong winds, descended to C3, put on oxygen and waited for the main group to join their summit push, which she did!

  Maybank, Tracy and Coster never intended to summit as they were on a search mission for Irvine. They left C3 on 19/05 at 8 am and spent about 10 hours searching. However, due to the deep snow there was no way they would find him. After they finished their search they descended to ABC at around 5 pm.

  Team left BC on 25/05.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C1 to top to C1 by members
    From 7500m to top to 7500m by Sherpas
    Fuchs from C3 to top to C1
    Kragh and Kedrowski did NOT use O2.

  Sherpas:
    Karma Sherpa, Makalu
    Mingma Nurbu Sherpa, Makalu
    Nima Thinduk Sherpa, Makalu
    Pasang Gelji Sherpa, Makalu
    Chhangba Sherpa, Makalu
    Pastemba Sherpa, Makalu
    Ngatashi Sherpa,  Makalu
    Lakpa Sherpa, Makalu
    Pemba Nurbu, Makalu
    Fursona Sherpa, Kharikhola
    Wangdi Sherpa, Rolwaling
    Dawa Chhiring
    Kalden Sherpa
    + 3 Additional Sherpas


expid: EVER18168
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: David O'Brien
sponsor: SummitClimb Everest North Expedition 2018
countries: Australia, Finland, Germany, Paraguay, Sweden, USA
approach: Lhasa->Tingri-> Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-16
smtdate: 2018-05-19
smttime: 0820
termdate: 2018-05-21
campsites: CBC(16/04,4900m),ABC(21/04,6400m),C1(04/05,7000m),C2(17/05,7850m),C3(18/05,8300m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  CBC 16/04  4900m (Chinese BC)
  ABC 21/04  6400m
  C1  04/05  7050m
  C2  17/05  7650m	
  C3  18/05  8300m
  Smt 19/05  by Lawrie, Madden, Maughan, McKnight, Szwed, O’Brien, Rassl, 
             Ang Dorji Sherpa, Gelze Sherpa, Gyalje Sherpa, Jangbu Sherpa, 
             Chhewang Karma Sherpa between 8:20 am and 8:50 am.

  Summit team left C3 at 11:50 pm on 18/05. Weather clear, but winds stronger than forecast. Visibility 100%. They spent about 10 minutes on the summit. Rassl, o’Brian, Szwed, Nerve and Maughan descended to C3, where they arrived at 3pm. 

  Lawrie, Madden, Renshaw, McKnight descended to C2, where they arrived at 6 pm.

  At about 50m below the top on the descent, Rassl sat down and said he could no longer continue and had lost his vision (due to snowblindness). He had not put on his sunglasses on the way up, even though O’Brien had told him several times. O’Brien and Jangbu Sherpa helped him down by short-roping, moving his feet with their hands. It took about 12 hours and they reached C3 at 9 pm. On 20/05 Rassl was feeling a bit better and was able to get down to ABC by himself.

  Kallio reached 6500m on 04/05, but the climb was too hard for him so he left the expedition. 

  Magnus Nerve reached 8730m. He decided to turn back at that point as he was tired and knew that he would run into trouble on the way down. 

  Renshaw turned back at 8450m (mushroom ridge). He was too tired to continue.

  Team left ABC on 21/05.	

  Oxygen: Taken and used from North Col to top to North Col by members and Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    SummitClimb Sherpas from Patle.


expid: EVER18169
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Andreas Neuschmid
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Everest Expedition 2018
countries: Germany
approach: Lhasa->Tingri->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-16
smtdate: 2018-05-15
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2018-05-17
campsites: BC(16/04,4900m),ABC(26/04,6400m),C1(01/05,7000m),C2(13/05,7650m),C3(14/05,8200m),Smt(15/05)
agency: Himalaya Vision
routememo:
  BC  16/04  4900m
  ABC 26/04  6400m
  C1  01/05  7000m
  C2  13/05  7650m
  C3  14/05  8200m
  Smt 15/05  by Gauss and Kusang Tenzing at 9 am, Neuschmid, Schittich, 
             Tashi Tshering, Nuru Wangchhu and Lal Bahadur Tamang at 11 am.

  Summit team left C3 at 3 am. Weather was fine and calm. They spent about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to ABC (Gauss) and C2.

  On 16/05 everybody down at ABC. Team left ABC on 17/05.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C1 to summit to C1 by members and Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Kusang Tenzing, Ghunsa, Lelep-9, Taplejung, 16/05/1986
    Tashi Tshering (Tashi Chhiring), Khumjung, 08/05/1990
    Nuru Wangchhu Sherpa, Pangboche, 18/08/1977
    Lal Babadur Tamang


expid: EVER18170
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Adrian Ballinger
sponsor: Alpenglow Cho Oyu/Everest Lightning Ascent 2018
countries: Ecuador, USA
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->Cho Oyu BC->Xigatse->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-05-11
smtdate: 2018-05-20
smttime: 0526
termdate: 2018-05-21
othersmts: Summited Cho Oyu on 6 May (CHOY-181-06)
campsites: BC(09/05,5200m),ABC(10/05,6400m),C1(14/05,7000m),C2(15/05,7700m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Himalaya Vision
primid: CHOY18106
routememo:
  THe Lightning Ascent team came to Everest from Cho Oyu (spending two nights in Shigatse to recover from Cho Oyu). Team began their summit push on 15 May, but stopped to help Chad Peele's Alpenglow Everest Rapid Ascent team when Peele's team were turned back at 8600m due to oxygen tank regulator failures and descended back to ABC with them. They resumed their summit push and summited at 5:26 am on 20 May, then descended to ABC. Team departed for Lhasa the next day.

  Sherpas for Cho+Everest:
    Dorji Sonam Gyalzen Sherpa
    Palden Namgye Sherpa
    Urken Lendu Sherpa
    Mingma Chhiring Sherpa
    Gyaljen Dorje Sherpa


expid: EVER18171
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Chad Peele
sponsor: Alpenglow Rapid Ascent Everest Expedition 2018
countries: Canada, Ecuador
approach: Lhasa->Tingri->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-27
smtdate: 2018-05-16
termdate: 2018-05-20
termnote: Abandoneded at 8600m due to oxygen tank regulator failures
campsites: BC(27/04,5200m),ABC(04/05,6400m),C1(13/05,7000m),C2(14/05,7700m)),C3(15/05,8300m),xxx(16/05,8600m)
agency: Himalaya Vision
routememo:
  From Alan Arnette's blog:

  I spoke live by satellite phone with Adrian Ballinger, founder of Alpenglow, at 6:47 am, Everest time. He was at 8500 meters, near the 2nd Step on the Tibet side when he said they had 10 of 39 oxygen bottle regulators fail and had to turn back. Everyone was safe and below C3 at 8300 meters as of our conversation.

  The regulator controls the flow of oxygen between the bottle and the mask. If it fails, there is no oxygen in the mask. Alpenglow was using Summit Oxygen (SO) systems. I reached out them but could not connect with such short notice. I have used SO several times with complete success. Adrian was strong to say he was not criticizing SO but wanted to get the word out that there may be a bad manufacturing batch out there in use. He has used SO for 6 years with no problems.

  The guides and Sherpas are now without supplemental oxygen as they gave up their regulators to the members and all are safely descending. Adrian said the regulators spontaneously failed without warning within 3 minutes.

  Sherpas (all from Phortse):
    Panuru Sherpa (Sirdar)
    Nawang Tenjing Sherpa
    Fura Chheten Sherpa
    Pasang Rinji Sherpa
    Lakpa Nuru Sherpa
    Kanchha Nuru Sherpa
    Pasang Sona Sherpa
    Lhakpa Gyalzen Sherpa
    Danuru Sherpa


expid: EVER18172
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiroyuki Kuraoka
sponsor: Hiro Everest North 2018
countries: Indonesia
approach: Lhasa->Tingri->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-18
smtdate: 2018-05-17
smttime: 0550
termdate: 2018-05-21
campsites: CBC(18/04,4900m),ABC(27/04,6400m),C1(01/05,7050m),C2(15/05,7650m),C3(16/05,8200m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Himalaya Vision
routememo:
  CBC 18/04  4900m
  ABC 27/04  6400m
  C1  01/05  7050m
  C2  15/05  7650m
  C3  16/05  8200m
  Smt 17/05  by 9 Sherpas and Fransiska, Mathilda, Oshiro, Motoike at 5:50 am, 
             Maeyama, Kamiyama, Ito at 6:10 am, Nakajima, Kuraoka at 6:15 am.

  Summit team and Nukita left C3 at 11:30 pm on 16/05. There were some little traffic jams on the 2nd Step, but otherwise straightforward climb.

  They spent about 30 minutes on the summit. They descended to ABC, where they arrived at 7 pm. Motoike arrived at 3 pm.

  Nukita reached 8500m (bottom of 2nd Step) when his regulator failed at about 2:30 pm. He was waiting for Hiro and they changed the back-up regulator, but as it was the same model, Nukita was worried that it would happen again. He descended to ABC. 
  Motoi reached North Col on 01/05. He suffered from low blood pressure. Monica Piris, the doctor of Alpenglow Expeditions, looked at him and told him to go down.

  Noriaki reached ABC. He had a heart problem and again Monica Piris told him to go down.

  Team left ABC on 19/05 and BC on 21/05.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used at BC by Noriaki to sleep. 
    Motoi used O2 at interim camp
    Seven members used oxygen to sleep at ABC (0.5l)
    Taken and used from ABC to top to ABC  by Fransiska, Mathilda, Ito, Kamiyama,
      Maeyama; from C1 to top to C1 by all other members; from C2 to top to C2
      by Sherpas.


expid: EVER18173
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Lukas Furtenbach
sponsor: Furtenbach Adventures Everest Expedition 2018
countries: Germany, USA
approach: Lhasa->Tingri->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-14
smtdate: 2018-05-16
smttime: 0635
termdate: 2018-05-22
campsites: CBC(14/04,4900m),ABC(22/04,6400m),C1(03/05,7050m),C2(14/05,7800m),C3(15/05,8250m),Smt(16,21/05)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  Group 1:

  CBC 14/04  4900m
  ABC 22/04  6400m
  C1  03/05  7050m
  C2  14/05  7800m
  C3  15/05  8250m
  Smt 16/05  by all members of Group 1 (Rupert Hauer 1st time), Mingmar Thindu 
             and four more Sherpas at 6:35 am.

  16/05 summit team left C3 at 10 pm on 15/05. At about 8700m at 5 am three of the regulators failed. Fortunately, they had spare regulators and could change them. Hauer was without supplemental oxygen for about 20 minutes and started to get slightly dizzy. They spent about an hour on the summit and descended to ABC, where they arrived between 1 pm and 5 pm. Group 1 descended to CBC and left CBC on 19/05.

  Group 2 (they had slept 8 weeks in a hypoxic tent prior to the expedition):

  CBC 06/05  4900m
  ABC 09/05  6400m
  C1  10/05  7050m
  C2  19/05  7800m
  C3  20/05  8250m
  Smt 21/05  by all members of Group 2 and Rupert Hauer for the 2nd time and 
             9 Sherpas at 6.30 am.

  Team left C3 at 11 pm on 20/05. They had one regulator fail, but had a spare to replace it quickly. They were the only team on the mountain from the north side that day. They spent about one hour on the summit and descended to ABC, where they arrived between 1 pm and 6 pm. Group 2 left BC on 29/05.

  Furtenbach never intended to summit. He went as high as the North Col.

  Oxygen:

  Group 1: taken and used from 7000 to top to 7000 by Sherpas and all members apart
           from Lutz who started O2 at 7800m to top to ABC.

  Group 2: taken and used from 8300m to top to ABC by Wagner; from ABC to top to ABC
           by other three members; from C1 to top to C1 by Hauer and Sherpas.

  Sherpas:

  Group 1 Summiters:
    Mingma Thindu Sherpa, 22/09/1980
    Pemba Rinji Sherpa, 10/01/1976
    Ang Kaji Sherpa, 27/04/1988
    Mingma Dorchi Sherpa, 30/08/1980
    Nimadorje Sherpa, 02/10/1987

  Group 2 Summiters:
    Mingmar Tamang, 18/08/1988
    Ang Kaji Sherpa, 27/04/1988 (again)
    Ram Nurbu Sherpa, 25/11/1980
    Kunga Sherpa, 17/07/1992
    Kusang Sherpa, 30/11/1974
    Sona Sherpa, 18/01/1974
    Mingma Dorchi Sherpa, 30/08/1980 (again)
    Nimadorje Sherpa, 02/10/1987 (again)
    Fudorchi Sherpa, 28/01/1983


expid: EVER18174
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Phil Crampton
sponsor: Altitude Junkies Everest Expedition 2018
countries: USA
approach: Lhasa->Tingri->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-28
smtdate: 2018-05-21
smttime: 2330
campsites: CBC(28/04,4900m),ABC(05/05,6400m),C1(09/05,7000m),C2(20/05,7800m),C3(21/05,8300m),Smt(21-22/05)
agency: Expedition Himalaya
routememo:
  CBC 28/04  4900m
  ABC 05/05  6400m
  C1  09/05  7000m
  C2  20/05  7800m
  C3  21/05  8300m
  Smt 21/05  by Crampton at 11:30 pm
  Smt 22/05  by Craig Plescia, Mike Brown, Anna Brown, Pasang Nima all at 3:20 am, 
             Ted Callahan at 5 am.

  Team left C3 at 8 pm. Straightforward climb. They spent about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to ABC, where they arrived at about 3:30 pm.

  Norris reached North Col.

  Anders reached intermediate camp. He had food poisoning 3 times in 5 days and returned to Kathmandu right at the beginning of the expedition.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from 7300m by members and Sherpas.


  Phil Crampton's blog (24/05/2018)

  Our team members along with their respective climbing Sherpas made the climbs to camp one, two and three respectively all in good times as expected. What was not expected, was that they all switched on their turbo switches at camp three before departing for the summit.

  Seeing as we were the only team on the mountain going for the top on the 22nd, we had some flexibility with our departure time. We all arrived at camp three between 10 am and 1 pm, so we had plenty of time to rest before leaving for the summit. Around 2 pm in the afternoon the Nepalese side of the mountain started to fill with high clouds and this started to alarm me somewhat, based on what the weather forecast models said could happen. Our original plan was to depart at 10 pm, allowing the slower members of the group to reach the summit at sunrise and the faster members at first light, as it’s light near the summit at 4 am, but with the increased clouds we decided to leave a couple of hours early to get a head start on the departure to ABC. We did not want to spend the night on the Col if there was going to be significant snowfall in the evening.

  What happened on our summit day I have never experienced before. All our team members and Sherpa were focused, departed on time, and reached the summit in mad crazy fast times, all before the sun had rose. The first climbers reached the summit in just over three hours and were back at high camp in five hours round trip. The other climbers were close behind and we all reached the summit and descended to advanced base camp throughout the day. The last Sherpa to clear the mountain and descend reported some light snow in the afternoon, just as we had expected. As it turned out, the European model was way off with its prediction, but we were cautious enough to consult both forecasts and make the appropriate summit plans.


  From Craig Plescia by email:

  Pretty sure Green Boots is still in the cave just recessed very far back and covered in rocks. Australian still in green tarp deceased under tarp. Spaniard with broken leg still there deceased by 2nd Step. Deceased Brit still dangling in ropes beyond 2nd Step. Red/pink down suited deceased climber face down in snow also still there (can't remember if that was before or after 3rd Step).


expid: EVER18175
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Sean James
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Everest Expedition 2018
countries: Australia
approach: Rasuwa->Kerung->Tingri->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-17
smtdate: 2018-05-18
smttime: 0615
termdate: 2018-05-19
campsites: CBC(17/04,4900m),ABC(24/04,6400m),C1(01/05,7050m),C2(16/05,7650m),C3(17/05,8200m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Makalu Adventure
routememo:
  CBC 17/04  4900m
  ABC	24/04  6400m
  C1  05/05  7050m
  C2  16/05  7650m	
  C3  17/05  8200m
  Smt 18/05  by Munday and Phurba Wangchu at 6:15 am, Langmead, Ang Dawa Sherpa, 
             Phursemba Sherpa at 7 am.

  Summit team and James left C3 at 10 pm on 17/05. Straightforward climb. There was nobody ahead of them. Good conditions. James turned back at 8600m due to breathing problems. They spent about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to ABC, where they arrived at 6 pm.

  White reached C1 on 27/04 when they touched the camp. He had had a few operations and the metal in his body seemed to react. He left early.

  Team left AB on 19/05.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C1 to top to C1 by all members
    From C2 to top to C2 by Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Dawa, Sedua, Makalu, 07/02/1978
    Phurba Wangchu, Waku, Solu 05/12/1975
    Phursemba, Makalu


expid: EVER18176
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Ryuseki Hiraoka
sponsor: Ryuseki Expeditions Everest 2018
approach: Rasuwa->Kerung->Tingri->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-17
smtdate: 2018-05-16
smttime: 0500
termdate: 2018-05-17
agency: Glacier Himalaya Treks
campsites:
  BC(17/04,5100m),IC(22/04,5750m),ABC(27/04,6400m),C1(01/05,7050m),C2(14/05,7650m),C3(15/05,8200m),Smt(16/05)

routememo:
  BC  17/04  5100m
  IC  22/04  5750m
  ABC 27/04  6400m
  C1  01/05  7050m
  C2  14/05  7650m
  C3  15/05  8200m
  Smt 16/05  by Hiraoka and Da Dendi Sherpa at 5 am CST (2:45 am NST)
             (with rope-fixers).

  On 16/05 they left from C3 at midnight (CST). They spent about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to ABC, where they arrived at 3 pm (CST).

  Keisuke reached around 8000m on 15/05. He turned back to ABC as he was too tired to carry on.

  Team left ABC on 17/05.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C1 to top to C1 [by both].

  Sherpas:
    Da Dendi Sherpa, 1981/05/28
    Kaljang Sherpa, 1986/01/20
    Tarke Sherpa, 1967/07/19


expid: EVER18177
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Victor Bobok
sponsor: Wind of Freedom Everest Expedition 2018
countries: Ukraine
approach: By Jeep Ktm->Rasuwa->Tingri->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-16
smtdate: 2018-05-15
smttime: 0945
termdate: 2018-05-17
campsites: BC(16/04,4900m),ABC(23/04,6400m),C1(29/04,7050m),C2(13/05,7650m),C3(14/05,8200m),Smt(15/05)
agency: Climbalaya
routememo:
  CBC 16/04  4900m
  ABC 23/04  6400m
  C1  29/04  7050m
  C2  13/05  7650m
  C3  14/05  8200m
  Smt 15/05  by Klimchuk, Mezentsev, Sypavin plus three Sherpas at 9:45 am.

  Summit team and Pushkarev left C3 at 1 am. It was windy, but died down. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to ABC, where they arrived between 8:30 pm and midnight.

  Pushkarev reached the 2nd Step (8600m). On the way up he took a little fall and then Sypavin told him to go down. He turned back at around 8 am. He descended to ABC, where he arrived at 10 pm.

  Bobok reached 6650m. He did not feel well and as he did not have a permit he decided to abandon the climb.

  Team left ABC on 17/05.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C1 to top to C1 by all members.


expid: EVER18178
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Anish Luitel
sponsor: Anish Luitel Everest Expedition 2018
approach: Ktm->Rasuwa->Tingri->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-20
smtdate: 2018-05-14
smttime: 1135
termdate: 2018-05-17
campsites: BC(20/04,4900m),ABC(22/04,6400m),C1(11/05,7050m),C2(12/05,7650m),C3(13/05,8200m),Smt(14/05)
agency: Climbalaya
routememo:
  CBC 20/04  4900m
  ABC 22/04  6400m
  C1  11/05  7050m
  C2  12/05  7650m
  C3  13/05  8200m
  Smt 14/05  by Luitel at 11:35 am (with rope fixers)

  Before summit push Luitel only went up to about 6400m and then went back to CBC. On his summit push he left C3 at 1:30 am on 14/05. He was just behind the rope fixers (all from Climbalaya) who had left C3 at midnight. He caught up with them on the 2nd Step.

  He stayed for about 10 minutes on the summit, then descended to C3, where he arrived at 2 pm. It was very windy. However he did not have a tent at C3 as he was planning to go down as far as C1 after the summit. The tent [that he had used] was occupied by the Chinese. He stayed in a tent of a Russian team, but did not have a sleeping bag. It was very cold. On 15/05 he descended to ABC and left ABC on 17/05.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C1 to top to C1.


expid: EVER18179
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Sweden
leaders: Bjorn Lindwall
sponsor: Rolwaling Excursion Everest Expedition 2018
countries: Poland
approach: Lhasa->Tingri->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-18
smtdate: 2018-05-16
smttime: 0632
termdate: 2018-05-23
campsites: BC(18/04,4900m),ABC(23/04,6400m),C1(28/04,7050m),C3(15/05,8200m),Smt(15,20/05)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  CBC 18/04  4900m
  ABC 23/04  6400m
  C1  28/04  7050m
  C2   --
  C3  15/05  8200m
  Smt 16/05  by Lagozny at 8:47 am CST (6:32 am NST), Lindwall, Krypel, 
             Chhiring Dorje, Ang Mingmar at 9:35 am CST (7:20 am NST)
  Smt 20/05  by Twardowski, Chhiring Dorje (again) and Ang Mingmar (again)
             at 7:09 am CST (5:54 am NST).

  The team did not use C2 as they needed to save time as they wanted to reach the summit on 16/05. It took them 12 hours to get from C1 to C3 on 15/05.

  Team left Camp 3 at 12:47 am CST. It was snowing slightly. Approximately 50 climbers on the route. When Lindwall reached the 1st Step at about 3 am, he stopped for about one hour to warm up his feet. On the 2nd Step they had to wait for half an hour, for a USA film team, who were filming. They spent about one hour on the summit and then descended to C1 (Lindwall and Krypel), where they arrived at 9:15 pm. Lagozny descended to ABC, where he arrived at 11 pm.

  Twardowski summited four days later as he acclimatised a bit slower and was not ready to summit on 16/05.

  Team left ABC on 19/05 & 23/05.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from 7000m to top to C1 by Lindwall and Krypel, Chhiring Dorje
      and Ang Mingmar
    Lagozny from 8200m to summit to 7800m.

  Sherpas:
    Chhiring Dorje, Beding, Dolakha 26/10/1974
    Ang Mingmar, Yilajung, Khumbu 21/02/1968


expid: EVER18180
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Illina Frankiv
sponsor: Fourth from the North Everest 2018
approach: Rasuwa->Kerung->Tingri->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-17
smtdate: 2018-05-18
smttime: 0445
termdate: 2018-05-19
campsites: CBC(17/04,4900m),ABC(24/04,6400m),C1(06/05,7050m),C2(16/05,7650m),C3(17/05,8200m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Yeti Expeditions (Mingma Gelu)
routememo:
  CBC 17/04  4900m
  ABC 24/04  6400m
  C1  06/05  7050m
  C2  16/05  7650m
  C3  17/05  8200m
  Smt 18/05  by Frankiv, Chuldim Sherpa at 7 am CST (4:45 am NST).

  Summit team left C3 at 11 pm on 17/05. Straightforward climb. Chuldim had a bit of an issue with his googles and headtorch, which was running out of batteries. Frankiv was more or less leading the way. They spent about 10 minutes on the summit and they descended to ABC, where they arrived at 7 pm. Left ABC on 19/05.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C1 to top to C1 by member
    From C2 to top to C2 by Sherpa.

  Sherpa:
    Chuldim Dorje, Khumjung, 25/07/1963


expid: EVER18181
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Rupert Jones-Warner
sponsor: British Everest North Expedition 2018
approach: By flight to Lhasa->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-05-21
smtdate: 2018-05-23
termdate: 2018-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to stolen oxygen
campsites: BC(21/05,4900m),ABC(22/05,6400m),xxx(23/05,7000m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
primid: EVER18110
routememo:
  After summiting Everest on 17/05, Jones-Warner attempted Everest from the north.

  Jones-Warner spent one night in Kathmandu on 19/05 and left for Lhasa on 20/05. He was planning on climbing Everest from the north side. He only reached up to the North Col, but there was no oxygen at the North Col so he abandoned the climb.

  Jones-Warner by email 28/05/2018:

  "Summited south 17 May 8:40 and arrived back down at bc on the 18th. I flew from BC morning of the 19th to KTM.

  I then left KTM morning of the 20th and flew to Lhasa arriving midday. Then drove arriving on North BC evening of the 21st.

  Me, Nima and Kami left BC on the 22nd and went to ABC. First thing on the 23rd we left ABC to go to 8300m. When we got to the North Col we realised there was no oxygen, presumed stolen. Once we had found out the oxygen was missing, we descended straight back down to base camp. We didn't stay or hang around. Then following day left to come back to KTM.

  The aim was to summit morning 24th as the weather closed in on the 25th. Had I been successful it would have been 2 summits in a week!"


expid: EVER18183
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Tsering Samdrup
sponsor: Holy Mountain Adventure Everest Expedition 2018
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-13
smtdate: 2018-05-16
smttime: 0510
campsites: BC(13/04,5200m),ABC(20/04,6500m),C1(30/04,7028m),C2(14/05,7790m),C3(15/05,8300m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Holy Mountain Adventure
routememo:
  Summit team left C3 at 10:45 pm (NST), summited at 5:10 am on 16 May, stayed 20 minutes, then descended to ABC arriving about 5:15 pm. Light snow, no wind.

  Oxygen:
    Members from C1 to summit to ABC
    Tibetans from C3 to summit to C1


expid: EVER18184
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Huang Nu-Bo
sponsor: Beijing University Everest Expedition 2018
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-09
smtdate: 2018-05-15
smttime: 0535
campsites: BC(09/04,5200m),ABC(24/04,6500m),C1(27/04,7028m),C2(13/05,7790m),C3(14/05,8300m),Smt(15/05)
routememo:
  The successful ascent Beijing time [completed] at 10:23 on May 15, 2018. Successful climbers include Zhao Wanrong, Guo Jiaming, Wei Wei, Li Jinxue, Xia Fan, Tao Bingxue, Zhuang Fangdong, Qian Junwei, Qiu Xiaobin, Li Wei, Yang Dongjie, Fang Xiang.

  First members arrived at the summit at 7:50 am (CST) and the last at 10:23 am (CST).

  Among them: 
    7:50 Wei Wei
    8:05 Fang Xiang
    8:17 Xia Fan
    8:22 Zhao Wanrong
    8:24 Guo Jiaming
    8:25 Li Jinxue
    8:32 Qian Junwei
    8:51 Zhuang Fangdong
    8:58 Tao Bingxue
    9:02 Li Wei
   10:23 Last two climbers

  The youngest was age 21, the oldest age 55.


expid: EVER18185
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Shekhar Bachinepally
sponsor: Transcend Adventures Everest North Expedition 2018
approach: Lhasa->Gyantse->Xigatse->Tingri
bcdate: 2018-04-19
smtdate: 2018-05-16
smttime: 0155
termdate: 2018-05-26
accidents: Rambabu Lake suffered from AMS, hallucination at 8300m during summit push
agency: Arun Treks
campsites:
  BC(19/04,5000m),IC(26/04,6100m),ABC(27/04,6400m),C1(30/04,7100m),C2(14/05,7900m),C3(15/05,8300m),Smt(16-17/05)

routememo:
  CBC 19/04  5000m
  IC  26/04
  ABC 27/04  6400m
  C1  30/04  7100m
  C2  14/05  7900m
  C3  15/05  8300m
  Smt 16/05  by 11 members and 13 Sherpas
  Smt 17/05  by 7 members and 9 Sherpas.

  Left BC on 22 and 26 May. Members at end 13

  Records:
    Father and daughter, Ajeet and Deeya Bajaj from India.
    Mehul Joshi, first from Gujrat
    Vikram Chandranaik first from Karnataka.

  Fixed rope: contributed money.

  Oxygen: Members from C1-summit-C1, Sherpas from C2-summit-C2.

  16 May summit: The team started from C3 between 8:30-9:30 pm (NST) on 15 May. The team first member reached summit at 3:30 am on 16 May; they stayed on summit for about 25 minutes and back to C3. Last one to arrive at C3 was at 11:30 am.
    
  Summiters 16 May:
    Manisha Dharma Dhurve/Ms.
    Pramesh Sitaram Ale
    Umakant Surresh Madavi
    Kavidas Pandurang Katmode
    Mehul Joshi
    Ajeet Bajaj
    Deeya Bajaj/Ms.
    Asa Kiranrani Koyyi/Ms.
    Himamsa Shaik
    Raja Kojja
    Venkata Surya Prakash Korikala

  Sherpas 16 May:
    Phurita, 15/04/1982
    Lakpa Tshering, 16/02/1991
    Tenzing Chhotar, 24/11/1989
    Sonam Tashi, 26/03/1989
    Ngima Tashi, 03/11/1992
    Mingma Nuru, 22/08/1990
    Pemba Tamang, 31/10/1989
    Ngimanuru, 24/10/1982
    Ngima Nuru, 06/11/1981
    Karma Gyalzen, 23/04/1987
    Kami Chhiri, 29/08/1982
    Ngima Tenji, 07/03/1981
    Ngima Rita, 26/08/1994

  17 May summit: The summit team started from C3 between 9-10 pm on 16 May and Pravin got to the summit at 4:10 am on 17 May, the last one Venkatesh to reach summit at 7:15 am. They stayed on summit around 5 minutes and back to C3, last one at 1:30 pm; all descended to ABC.

  Summiters 17 May:
    Vikas Mahadeo Soyam
    Venkatesh Indla
    Prasanna Kumar
    Bhanu Surya Prakash Podudolu
    Raju Gosala
    Praveen Kumar Jujjavaraju
    Vikram Chandranaaik

  Sherpas:
    Ngima Nuru, 14/08/1995
    Lakpa Tenzi, 07/09/1990
    Karma Gyaljen, 19/05/1991
    Sangay Dorje, 14/04/1978
    Pemba, 29/06/1985
    Phurba Temba, 27/01/1997
    Lakpa Temba, 08/10/1988
    Ang Nima Rai, 16/07/1974
    Phu Chiri, 24/08/1977

  Ramababu Lake suffered from AMS at C3 and was brought down to ABC by members of 3rd summit team. Later Ramababu was treated for a blood clot in his brain.


expid: GORH17301
peakid: GORH
year: 2017
route1: E side
nation: USA
leaders: Steve Furman
sponsor: Gorakh Himal Expedition 2018
approach: Simikot->Lotikh Khola->Tanke Khola->Bholbihanchaur Khola->BC
bcdate: 2017-10-20
smtdate: 2017-10-23
termdate: 2017-11-03
termnote: Abandoned at 4300m due to icefall difficulties
campsites: BC(20/10,3600m),ABC(22/10,4000m),xxx(23/10,4300m)
agency: Himalayan Treasure
routememo:
  All team members climbed above ABC to 4300m when they encountered icefall route difficulties.

  Steve Furman:

  "Even though it is not the highest peak in the range, Peak 6198 is the gem of the Gorakh Himal. Once through the ice-fall, a high camp can be set on the upper, heavily crevassed slopes, which lead to summit face. The summit face can be climbed via a steep, NE fluted snow and rock face, or an easier SE ridge."

  "I have cancer and did not feel I had the physical strength to safely ascend and descend the peak."


expid: HONK15301
peakid: HONK
year: 2015
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Alberto Inurrategi
sponsor: Chamlang Spanish Expedition 2015
ascent1: 1st?
approach: Lukla->Kote->Khare->Mera La
bcdate: 2015-09-29
smtdate: 2015-10-09
termdate: 2015-10-23
othersmts: Summited Chamlang (CHAM-153-01)
campsites: BC(28/09,5000m),Biv1(08/10,6200m),Smt(09/10)
agency: Prestige Adventure
primid: CHAM15301
routememo:
  BC   28/09  5000m
  Biv1 17/10  6200m
  Smt  09/10  by all 3 members.

  Team acclimatized for Chamlang by summiting Hongku peak via the SW Ridge on 9 Oct.


expid: JANE02101
peakid: JANE
year: 2002
route1: E Face of E Smt
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Gregor Lacen
sponsor: Slovenian Kumbakharna Expedition 2002
approach: Helicopter KTM to Oktang
bcdate: 2002-05-03
smtdate: 2002-05-16
termdate: 2002-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 5400m due to constant bad weather
othersmts: Climbed 2 minor peaks in Jannu area
campsites: BC(03/05,5000m),ABC(16/05,5400m),xxx(16/05,5400m)
accidents: nothing
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC  at Oktang east of Yalung Glacier and south of Jannu
  ABC just beneath East Face (near Kangchenjunga BC area)
  Highpoint at ABC.

  First acclimatized by 2 nearby peaks of 5900m and 6100m. Could see East Face for one day only, the day of arrival at ABC, then fog and snow falling. Planned to start climb on 8th, but snow fell almost every afternoon and snow avalanches as result in warm weather. Never able to go above ABC. Just kept waiting.


expid: JANE04301
peakid: JANE
year: 2004
route1: E Face of E Smt
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Tomaz Humar
sponsor: Jannu East Face
countries: Croatia
approach: By helicopter
bcdate: 2004-10-09
smtdate: 2004-10-30
termdate: 2004-11-01
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to impassible overhanging mushrooms
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  TempBC(06/10,5000m),BC(09/10,5050m),C1.ABC(25/10,5400m),Biv1(27/10,6000m),Biv2(28/10,6200m),Biv3(29/10,6850m),xxx(30/10,7000m)

routememo:
  BC  at Yalung Glacier
  ABC on rock at pillar before higher glacier
  High point at East Face of East Peak.

  Temporary BC on 6th was not right place, but porters said it was and so foggy and snowing couldn't see where they were; moved to correct BC one km further but only 55m higher. Humar and Bozic went to acclimatize on East Pillar of Jannu leading to it's SE Ridge; climbed to 6000m on this pillars on 19th, having started this climb on 16th and back down to glacier and BC on 20th. Jannu's East Face "totally different" from pix of 1992; black ice and many big mushrooms covered wtih powder snow, very dangerous condition of snow. Humar and Bozic left BC 25th but weather now brought clouds and snow falling so spent 2 days at ABC. 27th Humar crossed higher glacier with Bozic for 2 hours; crossing glacier shaped like amphitheater with powder avalanches falling constantly and depositing deep snow up chest-deep; also very deep crevasses narrow, was 6 km wide but with no place 2m only and he jumped it, late afternoon had to get out of avalanches debris area and had to start up an ice and rock debris pillar on East Face south end; up 1st 30m of face overhanging section in series of very dangerous and difficult obstacles and Humar hit hard by hard ice "candle." Biv at about 5:30 pm. 28th climbed system of overhanging rock cracks which hard to climb inside of and then on outside; they were polished granite and very little friction and impossible to fix; "very risky" section 20 meters high, then mushroom ridges, "nightmare" of up and down to avoid mushroom and avalanching. At 6200m found rock ledge and bived there, half hanging. 29th climbed very fast finally and in 6 hours climbed face, then got lost in overhanging mushrooms and found thinnest couloir which was black ice holes, powder snow, which had to clear away, both sides 2 huge balloons of powder snow to overhanging cauliflower cornices, fell 3 times, then traversed 20m on night side on a mushroom and biv on snowhole on ledge he dug deep into the mushroom; left gear in snowhole. Tried to find route beyond and took 4 hours to gain 20m. Returned to biv in snowhole at 6850m. Night was very cold and 100 km per hour wind "quite fresh air" blowing powder snow down his throat. Was confident he could reach shoulder on SE Ridge leading to top, but "nightmare came early in morning (of 30th) where I tried to reach this shoulder" only 20m above but "unreachable" through mushrooms and here he could find no way past them in 5 attempts in different couloirs and mushroom, so abandoned attempt at about 7000m after 4-1/2 hours of futile attempts. At 1:00 pm packed up and started down, find way through fog at 4:00 pm and snow fell and fell 5 times on rock pillars and once lower jumped 2 crevasses and got to ABC at just before 7:00 pm. No tracks to follow because avalanching had filled them. BC on 21st. Won't say face is impossible but in its present condition, got harder and and harder, riskier and riskier as one goes higher.


expid: JANE91101
peakid: JANE
year: 1991
route1: E Face of E Smt
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Tone Skarja
sponsor: Slovene Himalayan Expedition to Kangchenjunga & Jannu
bcdate: 1991-04-12
smtdate: 1991-05-01
smttime: 1400
termdate: 1991-05-04
termnote: Abandoned at 7050m due to bad weather, frostnip, etc
primid: KANG91102
othersmts:
  Climbed Kangchenjunga (KANG-911-02), Central (KANC-911-01), South (KANS-911-01); climbed Talung illegally (TLNG-911-01)

campsites:
  BC(12/04,5350m),Biv1(28/04,5430m),Biv2(30/04,6400m),Biv3(30/04,6800m),xxx(01/05,7050m),Biv4(01/05,6900m),Biv5(02/05,6550m)

routememo:
  Went to Kangchenjunga BC 12th April and to acclimatize and went to C2 on Kangchenjunga. Also pitched tent and stocked it with some food, etc. and from this tent started climb at 4 pm on 29th April. Took biv sack, stove and gas, 2 sleeping bags and 2 ropes. Fixed no rope on climb. At 9 am on 30th April rested at 6400m for 6 hrs. Then on up to 6800m where stopped at 9 pm on 30th. 1 May 8 am started up again; left biv gear at 6900m expecting to reach top that day but at 7050m stopped at 2 pm bad weather (winds and avalanche of new snow). Waited at 7050m 9 hrs for better weather when snowfall and avalanches stopped. Down to 6900m at 1 am 2 May stayed until 9 am. Now down to 6600m in 3 hrs, there snowfall and avalanches then after another 2 hrs to biv at 6550m at 4 pm in big crevase. 3 May 1 am down and at bottom of face at 6 am, to tent at 5430m at 7 am. Climb now finished. 

  Slight frostbite, very tired and lost 10 kg each (had eaten only 200 gms biscuits). Entire face "extreme difficulty plus" with 5 pitches more difficulty (2 ice, 3 mixed rock and ice). Route possible: if weather good "we would be on top on 1st of May in evening." Ice couloir up center. Jannu in clouds every day of entire expedition's climb: Jannu had the worst weather.


expid: JANE92101
peakid: JANE
year: 1992
route1: E Face-SE Ridge of E Smt
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Vanja Furlan
sponsor: Slovenian Kumbhakarna 1992
bcdate: 1992-04-28
smtdate: 1992-05-15
termdate: 1992-05-18
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to bad weather, exhaustion and food and gas running out while on face
othersmts: Kabru North to 6500m for acclimatization
campsites: BC(28/04,5100m),Tent(11/05,5300m),Biv1(12/05,6300m),Biv2(13/05,6900m),xxx(15/05,7100m)
accidents: Doctor fell on moraine below BC and injured his back; Pockar frostbitten 2 fingers (will heal)
achievment: Highest point on E Face finished route on E Face
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC at end of Yalung Glacier, east of mountain and west of Point 5520m Yakushi map
  Tent at bottom of East Face
  Biv 1 on East Face
  Biv 2 on East Face
  High point at SE Ridge.

  Had very bad weather during climbing and were exhausted by very steep climbing. BC lower than planned because heavy snowfall and porters unwilling to go higher and then a member realized this is a good place for small expedition. Put tent at 5300m. Made E Face on 11 May (helped by sirdar/cook and kitchen boy walking 2-1/2 hours on glacier from BC). Started ascent at 5:30 am on 12th May from tent at 5300m and start actual climb on face 7:15 am at 5500m. Climbed all day and midnight reached central serac at 6300m, found ice cave and bivouacked here for 13 hrs (were very tired and slept late). 1 pm 13th May up again till 21:00 hrs at 6900m biv in small crevasses which dug out to make it longer. 14th May morning snowstorm big avalanches all day so had to stay there all day and we were very happy to have rest. After this storm and stay all day and all night, had very little gas and food left. 15th May 6:30 am started up again, but still tired because of altitude and not enough liquid. Snowed a little but no avalanches, but decided unsafe to carry on up in their tired state. Decided to finish their route on SE Ridge and reached ridge at 12 noon at 7100m. Rested 15 mins on ridge - ridge not probably possible above 7200m because of overhanging seracs. 12:15 pm started down and 6 pm reached 1st biv. Bad weather again (snow and fog) so stayed there till 23:00 hrs, when sky clear, but temperature very cold. Left biv at 11 pm, descended all night and reached bottom of face at 6 am and tent at 7 am. Cooked something to drink, packed up and arrived at 9:30 am. Above 2nd biv 2 very difficult pitches of overhanging ice on small ridges they had to climb to reach easier ramp to ridge.

  Face this year midday climbing had soft ice and bare rock, whereas last year was hard ice in night time. This year had waited for good weather and went up as soon as weather was good regardless of time of day. Weather this year much worse than last year while climbing but excellent weather on approach march and return.

  This face technically very difficult in its entirely. It's possible only you have to have enough energy. Problem is altitude, good preparation and necessity to descend same route. 

  Climbed 26 pitches with rope protecting each other, rest without rope.


expid: JANE92301
peakid: JANE
year: 1992
route1: E Face of E Smt
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Dusan Debelak
sponsor: Kumbhakarna East Slovenian Expedition
termnote: Abandoned due to death of Vidmar on approach march
routememo:
  Damjan Vidmar a member of Slovenian Kumbhakarna Expedition was missing since 4th Sept. At 4 pm that day the weather was hot and Vidmar went for a swim in the river near a village called Tillok. He slipped on a rock and fell into the water and disappeared. In spite of all the efforts of team members to find Mr. Vidmar they failed - body found in early Oct.

  Zernovik 11 Sept by telephone: "We were like brothers - with one gone, we could not go on. Maybe we will come again next year - I don't know."


expid: JANE93301
peakid: JANE
year: 1993
route1: E Face of E Smt
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Dusan Debelak
sponsor: Jannu East Slovenia Expedition 1993
bcdate: 1993-09-19
smtdate: 1993-10-10
termdate: 1993-10-14
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to avalanches (too dangerous)
campsites: BC(19/09,5000m),ABC(06/10,5400m),Biv1(07/10,5900m),Biv2(08/10,6500m),xxx(10/10,6800m)
accidents: Robnik altitude sickness & little frostbite
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC  below East Face on Yalung Glacier
  ABC at glacier Khumbakarna Glacier
  High point on East Face.

  Safe climb only 2:00 am to 6:00 am and then rock avalanche could start. Began push on 7th and climbed 200m of rock wall that day. 8th started 5:00 am and got to 6500m in total 9 hours climbing (5:00-8:30 am and 2:30-9:00 pm). 9th stone and snow avalanches all day so stayed in biv. 10th at 1:30 am started up (Robnik stayed in biv sick while Debelak and Zerovnik continued climb) and at 5:30 am reached 6800m when too dangerous from stone avalanching. Rapelled down to 6500m. That night started rapelling down and snow avalanches at 5700m hit area but they kept there places and not hurt. Weather clear but too warm. Reached ABC 11th. Climb finished. Zerovnik will never return to this face: too dangerous.


expid: JANE96301
peakid: JANE
year: 1996
route1: E Face of E Smt
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Bojan Pockar
sponsor: Slovenian Kumbhakarna Expedition
bcdate: 1996-09-27
termdate: 1996-10-17
termnote: Abandoned due to climber's disappearance on Kabru
campsites: BC(27/09,5200m)
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC at Yalung Glacier (100m below Kangchenjunga BC).

  On 30 Sept Pockar and Petric went to acclimatize on Kabru and reached 6000m and back to BC same day. 4 Oct went again to acclimatize on Kabru and sleep one night over 6000m. Left BC at 4:20 am for Kabru. Perdan saw them last through strong telephoto lens 12:30 pm at about 6000m. Later in afternoon cloudy and during night 20 cm snow fall; 5 Oct cloudy all day clear and could see small avalanche paths but seracs had not fallen. Climbers were not roped together. On 6th and thereafter no sighting of their bright clothing and green tent - mountain was white. Searched with binoculars and telephoto lens from different sides of mountain but absolutely nothing to be seen. Hoped they had for some reason gone down Sikkimese side, but this hope now abandoned. Did they fall? Were they smothered by snow collapsing their small tent?

  Perdan did no climbing, stayed at BC only.

  14 Nov 96 - Viki Groselj, very experienced Slovene climber in Himalaya, said that he thinks Pockar and Petric probably made a mistake in choosing their acclimatization route. Groselj knows Kabru area well and believes that when there is much snowfall (avalanche there was on 4-5 October), there can be serious danger of climber setting off avalanching and being buried. It is likely this is what happened to Pockar and Petric, he said.

  Slovenians who died in climbing accidents:
  1) Slavko Sveticic, July 95 (?) 
  2) Stane Belak, July 95 (?)
  3) Miss Jasna Bratanic, Dec 95, Slovenian Mountains
  4) Janko Plevel, Feb 96, Slovenian Mountains
  5) Vanja Furlan (best Slovenian climber), July 96, Slovenian Mountains 
  6) Bojan Pockar, Jannu, Oct 96
  7) Ziga Petric, Jannu, Oct 96


expid: JANE98101
peakid: JANE
year: 1998
route1: Intended E Face of E Smt
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Franc Gajsek
sponsor: Slovenia Kumbhakarna Expedition
bcdate: 1998-03-31
smtdate: 1998-04-08
termdate: 1998-05-07
termnote: Abandoned at 5080m due to continous bad weather and constant avalanching
campsites: BC(31/03,4680m),ABC(08/04,5080m),xxx(5080m)
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC at Yalung Glacier near point at 4621m on Japanese map.

  "Only one without snowing and because face is difficult there should be 5-6 days of good weather but this time always avalanches." Never set foot on face. Mornings were clear weather and members packed up ready to start climb in afternoon and climb all night, but snow started in afternoons between 1:00 and 3:00 pm (even in mornings a few days) and not possible to go up with avalanching constantly. Perhaps Jan-Feb better when colder: maybe more difficult but safer.


expid: JOMS18101
peakid: JOMS
year: 2018
route1: N Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
sponsor: Paulo Grobel Jomson Himal Expedition 2018
approach: See route details
bcdate: 2018-05-29
smtdate: 2018-06-03
termdate: 2018-06-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m on approach due to bad weather
campsites: BC(29/05,5450m),C1(31/05,5850m),C2(02/06,6147m),xxx(03/06,6200m)
agency: Himalayan Travellers Nepal
routememo:
  Approach: Villages on the way up: Nar, Chhubche Kharka, Banda, Thangsumda, Labse glacier, all in Labse Khola. Way down via Loha Khola.

  BC  29/05  5450m (afoot of the Labse glacier)
  C1  05/31  5850m (glacier camp)
  C2  02/06  6147m ("Loha Pass")
  HPt 03/06  6200m by all member above "Loha Pass" towards Margot Himal.

  Climb abandoned on June 3 due to weather conditions.

  Left BC: 3 June (did not go back to BC)
  Fixed rope: none
  Oxygen use: not taken not used

  Route: NW glacier, NE ridge to Margot Himal, N ridge to Jomsom Himal.

  Project was to climb Teri Himal, then Margot Himal/Jomsom Himal/Amotsang from pass between 6185m and 6385m ("Margot Himal" christened by Lionel Chatain, being the name of his daughter). Eventually went from Nar to Phu via newly christened "Loha Pass (6147m) instead, result of years of exploration with many expeditions since 2002 (back then: "Looking for Amotsang" project).

  Arrival at BC of Amotsang on June 4 at 5600m.

  June 8 at Chaykho, village usable as a base camp for Tilche (Tilje in HD).
   
  June 9 Rajan, Dhan, Dipen and Paulo made a common attempt on Tilche northwest ridge (official summit on ministry permit list). Put an intermediate camp at 4820m. Went maximum up to 5250m.

  In 2017, Lionel Chatain made an attempt on Amostang (not recorded in HD), climbing a peak called/christened Tribeni (not on the official permit list).

  Hired:
    Dhan Bahadur Magar, at Loha pass (JOMS) / 5250m (TILJ)
    Dipen Nuppa Bhote, at Loha pass (JOMS) / 5250m (TILJ)
    Rajan Lama Bhote, at Loha pass (JOMS) / 5250m (TILJ)


expid: KANG18101
peakid: KANG
year: 2018
route1: SW Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Sophie Lavaud
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Kangchenjunga Expedition 2018
approach: Trekked to Ramche, heli to BC
bcdate: 2018-04-14
smtdate: 2018-05-16
smttime: 1830
termdate: 2018-05-19
campsites: BC(14/04,5400m),C1(21/04,6100m),C2(22/04,6200m),C3(29/04,6830m),C4(15/05,7350m),Smt(16/05)
accidents: Ben Yehuda evacuated from BC due to frostbite
agency: Seven Summit Treks
countries:
  Germany, Hungary, Iran, Ireland, Israel, Italy, Japan, Macedonia, Nepal, Russia, Singapore, USA/Canada

routememo:
  Seven Summit Treks Kangchenjunga expedition was a combination of several independent individuals. Seven Summits provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. Their accounts are given below:


  Account by Hellmuth and Baranov:

  Hellmuth and Baranov set out from C4 at 9:45 pm on 15/05 slightly later than the rest of the SST team. They had two Sherpas with them (Phurba and Bire). The ropes had been fixed to 8100m by Asian Trekking Sherpas. When they reached the end of the fixed rope at 5 am, Lakpa (Expedition Base) and two Seven Summit Sherpas continued to fix the ropes to 8455m, which Hellmuth and Baranov reached at 4 pm. The rope fixing Sherpas had run out of rope and most of the climbers decided to turn back.

  Hellmuth and Baranov decided to carry on (they were behind Pemba Gyalzen from Expedition Base). The conditions were not very good – mixed conditions. Rockfall and a lot of lose snow. They continued without a rope and they say it was dangerous. Their Sherpas had both turned back from 8455m taking the oxygen with them.

  After a long and arduous climb, they finally reached the summit at 6:30 pm and stayed fpr about 15 minutes. They left the summit when Chris Burke and Lakpa (Expedition Base) arrived on the summit. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 2 am. They had been going for 29 hours.

  On 17/05, they left C4 at noon and descended to BC, where they arrived at 6 pm.

  Baranov carried his skis to 8500m and then decided to leave them there. He was climbing in skiing boots. He skied down from C4 to BC. He took about six hours to ski down.


  Account by Lavaud and Hanna:

  On 15/05, Lavaud and Confortola left C4 at 8 pm, Bowie left with Hellmuth and Baranov at 9:45 pm, Hanna and Dawa Sherpa left at 11:30 am. 

  Hanna, Bowie and Khoo turned back at 8353 mat 12:30 pm. Hanna's Sherpa Dawa had run out of oxygen and they had been sitting in the same spot for about 1-1/2 hours. They got very cold and were convinced that they were too late and that they would not make it to the summit. Hanna descended all the way to BC, where he arrived at 1am on 16 May. Bowie, Khoo and Dawa Sherpa descended to C4, where they stayed the night. 

  Khoo was exhausted and Bowie said that he had problems with his eye. It was twitching and when they stopped at 8353m he took some oxygen from Lavaud to relieve it, which it did. He used it for about 10 minutes.

  Confortola turned back at around 8000m due to cold feet and descended to BC. 

  At 8455m Lavaud was with Hellmuth and Baranov. Her Sherpa Na Dorjee was very tired as he had been fixing rope. As everyone contributed to the rope fixing, Lavaud gave her ice axe to one of the Sherpas. When Hellmuth and Baranov decided to carry on, Lavaud went down to Na Dorje and asked him whether he could give her his ice axe. They discussed what to do and by the time they stopped discussing, Baranov and Hellmuth had left. At this point, Lavaud decided to turn back. It was about 4:30 pm. She descended with Na Dorjee to C4, where they arrived at 7:30 pm.

  Naoko Watanabe reached 8353m on summit push.

  Zdravko Dejanovic reached C3 on the summit push. He had lost motivation and was unsure about the summit and turned back.

  Varga from Hungary turned back at about 7800m. He was going without oxygen and was too cold.

  Maya Sherpa reached 8455m and quit due to lack of fixed ropes.

  Lavaud reache 8455m and quit due to lack of ice axe and when she was trying to get her ice axe back from the Sherpa she had given it to, Hellmuth and Baranov had left already.


  From Sophie Lavaud's FB Page:

  Learning about quitting... a story of piolet, rope and hypoxia...

  Why did you turn around 130 feet from the top?

  On May 15, when we went up to camp 4, we cross the fixing team that renonce to continue and which goes down to base camp... the only information we have is that they made a rope deposit to 8100 meters. What to do, give up or find a plan b?

  Chhepal, in charge of our logistics proposes, as plan B to dedicate 2 SHERPAS FROM OUR TEAM AND 2 from Expedition Base (the other experiment at camp 4 at the same time as we) to go. From our team only two Sherpas, Na Dorjee and Phurba know the way and are able to set the ropes and open the path.

  Phurba refusing to go, there is only Na Dorjee who is the Sherpa that always accompanies me.

  Not exactly the choice, it penalised me very much, but I accept that he will go in the lead and find me without a Sherpa.

  Finally, they leave around 17 pm and the rest of the team is headed towards the summit around 20 pm...

  The conditions in the night are difficult, lots of snow, far too much snow... it is not only necessary to trace but also set!

  We meet at sunrise right behind them. Everyone is motivated, but progress is very slow. This mountain is huge and difficult, the mixed technical part is the last 300 meters.

  Little by little people are starting to give up and turn around. This mountain is really a traitor, it has several "false" summits. Finally around 15 pm, on 16 May we reach the small ridge at 8455m from where we can finally see the last section.
  Everyone is exhausted, no one to set, two members of the other team will be encordent and heading towards the summit. Then there is some confusion, I propose to Herbert and Sergey to if all 3 but hypoxia does his job, I realize that I left my axe to one of the Sherpas to make an anchor... impossible to consider this last stiff section, which is difficult at this altitude without an axe and do after already 19 hours of ascension. Nadorjee is exhausted and the oxygen bottles how to miss... it's 50 feet below and I tell friends, I'll get the ax from Na Dorjee and a rope. Hypoxia, oxygen mask that makes communication very difficult, extreme fatigue, anyway, when I turn around I see my two companions who attacked the rise!!
  The distance already separating us is too important for me to imagine catching up with them... I'm staring at this pente slope that I find too exposed to venture out on my own. I have an axe but it's not enough... a picture, a half-turn... and at 20 am I'm falling down in my tent at camp 4...

  Herbert and Sergey are the only two of our team to reach the summit, bravo guys. The next day, Sergey's first question will be: "why did you abandon us?"...

  Sophie


  Maya Sherpa's Account on her FB page

  This time no summit Kanchenjunga. Wwe reached 8500m. So many bad and good things happened on the Mountain but we all are safely back home. But we never losse our hope. We will be back oneday. Many people summit but we didn't because we were the first group who try summit who break the route who fixed the rope up to the 8500m. We sent our personal Sherpa to fix the rope. Less oxygen, less support climb with very limited oxygen but still summit is summit because people only look at the success story not the unsuccessful stories. They don't even want to hear what really happened on the Mountain?. I really don't like politics on the Mountain we need to make some very effective ang good rules for fixing. Why people are fighting, arguing and depending on someone always in every Mountain? Why we are giving bad example to our forginers? Why we can't work together? Why we have too much ego? OMG I really hate this.


  Account for Nadav Ben Yehuda:

  Yehuda had joined the summit push of the other SST climbers, however, he and Don Bowie were the only ones not using supplemental oxygen. When he reached his high point it was already late, about 3 pm and he knew that it would be far too late to reach the summit without the use of oxygen, so he decided to turn back. [He was also very fatigued.]

  According to his description, he descended but started to feel a bit unwell and tired. He stopped for a while and just stood there. Some of the other climbers came to talk to him and even though he sounded tired they did not think that anything was wrong with him. He said that he did not want anybody to notice that he was not doing too well. He spent the night up above C4 and in the morning the climbers at C4 thought that he was dead. Some Sherpas ascended and found him. Don Bowie was involved in the rescue. According to Bowie, they wrapped up Ben Yehuda and dragged him down. Ben Yehuda claims that he was able to down climb the technical parts himself.

  He was picked up by helicopter on 17/05 and flown to Kathmandu. He was at CIWEC Clinic for about 5 days and has serious frostbite on both his feet.


  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C4 to summit to 8000m by Baranov.
    From C3 to summit to 8000m by Hellmuth. The oxygen had run out.
      Both Sherpas had gone down and took the oxygen with them.
    From C3 to high point to C3 by Khoo.
    From C4 to high point to 8000m by Hanna.
    From C4 to high point to C4 by Lavaud, Watanabe and Dejanovic.
    Confortola and Bowie (apart from 10 minutes at 8353m from Lavaud)
      did NOT use oxygen.


expid: KANG18102
peakid: KANG
year: 2018
route1: SW Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Dawa Steven Sherpa
sponsor: Asian Trekking International Kangchenjunga Expedition 2018
countries: Georgia, Greece, India, Italy, Mexico, Netherlands
approach: Various (see route notes)
smtdate: 2018-05-20
smttime: 0811
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(20/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  The Asian Trekking International Kangchenjunga expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Asian Trekking provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below.

  David Liano was the nominal leader on the permit, but Dawa Steven Sherpa went to Kangchenjunga and took over leadership after Liano left early for his Everest attempt.


  David Liano (Mexico)

  Appr:  Heli to Ramche
  Camps: BC(14/04,5550mm),C1(18/04,6100m),C2(22/04,6250m),C3(29/05,6900m),
         xxx(29/04,13/05,6900m)
  Left:  16/05/2017 (flew to Lukla)
  Term:  Abandoned at 6900m due to too much snow and no fixed ropes.

  Liano went on his summit push. He stayed at C3 for two nights waiting for the fixing team to fix ropes; however, when the Sherpas decided to stop fixing due to too much snow he descended to BC on 14/05.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used in C3 for the night (not for climbing).


  Harshad Rao (India)

  Appr:  By jeep to Biratmur, then by car to Appukhola, then trekked to BC
  Camps: BC(19/04,5550mm),C1(21/04,6000m),C2(30/04,6200m),C3(18/05,6800m),
         C4(19/05,7300m),Smt(20/05)
  Left:  26/05/2017
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success.

  Rao started on 19/05 from C4 at 8:3 0pm, summited on 20/05 at 9:50 am, back to C4 at 9:30 pm. On 21/05, started at 12:30 pm from C4, down BC at 8:30 pm.

  Oyxgen: 
    Taken from C3 to summit to C3 for climbing.
    Used on way up oxygen resting at C4; on descent, not used at C4 for resting.

  Sherpa:
    Sonam [Tshering] Sherpa


  Antonis Sykaris (Greece)
  Fotios Theocharis (Greece)

  Appr:  Badrapur by flight, drove to Kadim via Bidim, trekked to BC
  Camps: BC(19/04,5550mm),C1(21/04,6100m),C2(29/04,6250m),C3(18/05,6870m),
         C4(19/05,7300m),Smt(20/05)
  Left:  26/05/2017 (by foot)
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success.

  On 19/05 started at 7 pm from C4, summited on 20/05 at 8:11 am.

  Both members had Sherpas helping to carry bottles of oxygen during summit push.

  Team was back to C4 at 1 pm. Theocharis straight to BC. Sykaris slept at C3, on 21/05 back to BC.

  On 26/05 by foot through complicated Yalung moraine to Tseram in 12 hours.

  On 27/05 from Tseram to KTM by heli transfer with stop at Taplejung.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C4 to smt to C4.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Tshering Sherpa (old), to summit
    Pemba Nuru Sherpa (young), to summit


  Arjun Vajpai (India)
  Alessandro d'Emilia (Italy)

  Appr:  Badrapur by flight; bus to village before Yamphudin; trekked to Tseram 
         in 5 days; heli to BC. 
  Camps: BC(18/04,5550mm),C1(22-24/04,6100m),C2(23-25/04,6250m),C3(18/05,6900m),
         C4(19/05,7300m),Smt(20/05)
  Left:  26/05/2017 (by foot)
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success.

  After 5-6 days in BC, slept 2 consecutive nights at C1 and C2. Would be the first and only rotation.

  On 19/05 started from C4 at 7:30 pm, summited on 20/05 at 8:10 am, 10 min after fixing team Sherpas. Stayed 10 min on top then down; were many people there. On same day back to BC at 7 pm. Round trip from C4 to summit to BC in 24 hours.
   
  Waited for airlift at BC but because of bad weather it didn't come. Started to walk back to Tseram on 26/05. On 27/05 eventually had helicopter to KTM.

  Harshad Rao reached the top 1 hour after them, about 9 am? ONGC first group members also, as Dawa Steven and Sherpas.

  Rodrigo Vivanco summited without oxygen summited on same day, at around noon. They met him 200m below the top [going up], moving slower.

  Oxygen:
    Taken from C3 to summit to C3 (members and Sherpas)
    Alessandro working, filming, so oxygen necessary to work.
    Arjun planned to use oxygen from the first time. Hard conditions made it better
      with it.

  Sherpas: 
    Pasang Sherpa (Alessandro)
    Tendin Sherpa (Arjun)


  Caspar Van de Grevel (Netherlands)
  Willem Van Rooijen (Netherlands)

  Appr:  Biratnagar by flight, bus to Kandim, trekked to BC.
  Camps: BC(18/04,5400mm),C1(21/04,5900m),C2(22/04,6200m),C3(29/04,6900m),xxx
  Left:  21/05/2017
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned at 6900m due to altitude sickness.

  Caspar Van de Vevel could not reach C3 on 17/05, stopping 200m below it due to altitude sickness beginning. Short of breath, no energy, no power. Decided to abandon the expedition on that day, as De Vevel not in shape and seing others going up to summit (with oxygen), somewhat pulling down their own moral resource. Rooijen reached C3, took off the gear there and joined his companion on descent to finish to clear off their camps on the mountain.

  Oxygen: Not used, not taken


  Gia Tortladze (Georgia)

  Tortladze did not reach BC. He turned back in Ramche due to sickness.


expid: KANG18104
peakid: KANG
year: 2018
route1: SW Face
nation: Australia
leaders: Christine Burke
sponsor: Expedition Base Kangchenjunga 2018
countries: Canada, New Zealand, Switzerland, USA
approach: Mera Peak, Heli to Kangchenjunga BC
bcdate: 2018-04-21
smtdate: 2018-05-16
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2018-05-19
campsites: BC(21/04,5500m),C2(01/05,6350m),C3(03/05,6950m),C4(15/05,7300m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Expedition Base
routememo:
  BC  21/04  5500m
  C1  --     --
  C2  01/05  6350m
  C3  03/05  6950m
  C4  15/05  7300m
  Smt 16/0   by Burke, at 6:45 pm, Lakpa Sherpa at 6:40 pm, Pemba Gyaljen at 3 pm.

  Summit Team (7:30 pm) and Brand (7:45 pm), Warner (9:30 pm), Seagram (7 pm), Chhiring Sherpa, Pema Tshering Sherpa and Pem Dorje Sherpa, Ong Dorje, Pasang left C4 on 15/05 (see times in brackets).

  Ropes had been fixed by Asian Trekking and Lakpa Sherpa previously. On summit day two SST Sherpas and two Expedition Base Sherpas left C4 at 5 pm. The climbing team caught up with them some time during the night and had to wait at every anchor. At about 8450m the rope fixers had stopped. Lakpa and Burke were at the end of the queue and Lakpa went to the front, picked up the rope and fixed two more anchors and some other people (Lavaud, Hellmuth, Baranov and other SST climbers) continued. Lakpa then told the climbers that there was no more fixed ropes. Burke and Lakpa carried on alpine style. It was about 4 pm.

  Eichul Chung from South Korea turned back at the end of the fixed ropes (8350m). He got frostbite on his foot.

  Warner and Brand turned back at around 7500m. Warner turned back due to chest infection. Brand because of issues with the cold.

  Seagram turned back at around 8300m as she had issues with the cold.

  They spent about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 3 am on 17/05. They had been climbing for 23 hours and 15 minutes up and about 8 hours down. On 17/05 they descended to BC.

  Hart reached 6800m on 14/05. He developed a chest infection and descended to BC. It took them 10 hours and they arrived at BC 5 pm. Due to bad weather, he could not be helivaced on 15/05, but was picked up on 16/05 and taken directly to CIWEC clinic in Kathmandu, where he stayed for a couple of nights.

  Team left BC on 19/05 by heli.

  Fixed rope: 2400m of rope carried up by Expedition Base Sherpas; Lakpa Sherpa fixed about 400m of rope; Pem Dorje fixed about 600m.

  Oxygen Use:
    Taken and used from C4 to top or high point to C4 by members and Sherpas.


  From Chris Burke's website(22/05/2018)

  We left for our summit push on 11th, intending to summit on 14th or 15th. The route setters assured us the ropes would be done for a 14th attempt – so we went. The ropes weren’t done so we held up at Camp 3 (~6900m) for an extra day. On 14th, Lakpa then took 2 of his Expedition Base guides with him and climbed up from Camp 3 to Camp 4 and then Lakpa climbed way above Camp 4 to fix 400m more rope, before coming back down to Camp 4. His work was enough for the route setters to be inspired to do another 300m before they descended to base camp to rest. They had been fixing high for a many days.

  Then, the weather caused a problem – we had lost the 14th and now the 15th was looking bad – Kanch weather changes every 6 hours at times so you have to take your chances when you can. Lakpa descended to Camp 3. The weather was deteriorating, 16th looked good, but it meant waiting another day up high. Everyone at Camp 3 had to battle with the decision on weather and sitting high. Two of us were pretty much going up or down, but not staying at Camp 3 – too high to stay too long as the body weakens. After consulting several weather sources, we finally decided to go up and try to summit on the 16th. It was a touch and go decision. This was going to be a long push, being high for a long time – risky and concerning.

  At 7pm on 16th, most members left Camp 4 for the summit – around 30 people. The route was not complete so members of our team and another (SST), 4 in all, left at 5pm with some rope to go ahead and fix some more. They would soon discover to their distress that conditions would slow them down immensely. The job would not be finished.

  I was tardy and left at 7.30pm, but it took me a bit longer to ensure all my fingers and toes were ready for what was about to happen. Chhiring and one of our team members were at the front of a long line and Chhiring was now breaking trail for many hours. When he stopped at times to let someone take a turn, the line behind him stopped – people would not pass as they knew it was too hard. Back further in the line, I could see Chhiring stomping to break through the crust of the snow then his foot would go down about 30cm. Step by very hard step. This, even though the route setters had been through only 2 hours before. On the very few occasions that one or two people took over, they were 80% slower than Chhiring, and people in the line started to get cold. By around 10am the next morning, Chhiring decided to descend. He was spent. I felt so bad for him because he lost a summit attempt for the sake of everyone.

  Climbers in the line caught up with the route setters just as first light arrived in the morning. The route setters were slow, trying to find places to build anchors to fix the ropes to. Lakpa became concerned that the line was all too slow and on several occasions we pondered taking our rope and climbing alpine (rope) style, where the rope is tied to the person, not the mountain. It would most likely be faster but we would risk burning ourselves out, and there was greater risk of injury or death, especially at this altitude, as we were well over 8000m on continual steep terrain. We waited. By around 8am, one of my team members decided to descend with cold issues. I said I would likely follow shortly after because I was having trouble managing the cold and none of us was interested in summits over keeping our fingers and toes.

  A climber behind me whom I knew from other climbs was making uncharacteristically dour comments, which I ignored, except that he told me to watch the line of the sun to my left. The sun would be on us soon. Within 2 hours, we had some warmth. Though, more snow and mist would follow in the day.

  [Update 21/05/18: turns out there was a reason for the comments, and possibly me not responding clearly might not have helped things!]

  As about 12-2pm arrived, Lakpa decided we were still moving too slow. I wanted to help with the route setting but knew Lakpa had other plans. He decided now he and I would move alpine (rope) style. I told Lakpa we could go down and return another time, although in my heart I knew I wanted to try and summit. The conditions underfoot were making things slow for everyone. Pema from our team, who had been route setting, said he was not going up – impossible, he said, and still the summit was more than 5 hours away. Lakpa said it was 12 hours away at the pace we were doing. He said with good weather, we could keep going but we needed to get in front. I turned to the climber behind me and said ‘do you know we are still at least 5 hours away from the summit?’ I can’t remember his reply but, at this point, many climbers were stopping and descending. Enough was enough.

  Lakpa and I got past a few climbers, as we tried to get to the front end of the fixed ropes. We were nearly there when a bunch of about 6 climbers sat down ahead of us on a ledge waiting for ropes to be fixed. But, the fixed ropes were finished. Lakpa took an unfixed rope and he set 2 more anchors as I fed the rope from below. The climbers moved up again. Lakpa sat down, as did the other climbers. He explained that the fixed ropes were now finished (any other ropes were behind) and that he and I would be climbing alpine (rope) style with our personal rope. The other climbers, from the other team, appeared to be confused, not fully understanding the situation for them. Lakpa gave another of our ropes to our climbing friends and said they could use it to climb themselves. Another climber said later that 4 people had told him it was not possible to climb alpine style or to free climb on the upper sections of this mountain so he said he was grateful that Lakpa had shown him there were options, after seeing Lakpa and I climb ahead. Others had no rope and chose to descend. All but 5 of us turned around.

  By now, a number of my team members had descended with cold or respiratory issues. I had pictured us all reaching the summit together. This was not to be.

  Pemba Geljen Sherpa, from Expedition Base, reached the summit first at around 3pm in an (unofficial) world first climbing directly from base camp to the summit in a single push. He had descended with a client the day before from Camp 3, and decided to go up again to the summit, bringing fresh food with him! Quite an outstanding young man with unbelievable talents, speed and strength. Two climbers (Russia / Germany) reached the summit next at 6:30pm, then Lakpa at about 6:40pm, and then me at 6:45pm. I quickly said to Lakpa that we had maybe 15 minutes of daylight so to quickly take photos and then I left the summit first, then Lakpa. I was conscious that we would be climbing around ledges in the dark and frankly, I was scared about that, due to exhaustion after nearly 24 hours of climbing, especially at this altitude. Lakpa remained composed and calm as ever. Of the summit, I remember doing a quick 360-degree turn in order to see what the view was like. There was not an ounce of wind and the sun was setting. Best weather ever. Beautiful.

  On descending, I knew my job was to not slip on the snow and rock ledges, and not to put Lakpa at risk on our rope. My exhaustion took a back seat to us getting down safely. Once we were back down on the fixed ropes, I felt more relaxed to descend faster but exhaustion was trying to take over and I had to fight it hard. It would take us 8 more hours to get back down to Camp 4 – by 3am, more than 32 hours after we left, we were back at Camp 4.

  (Unbelievably, Lakpa’s guides stayed up to await our arrival. They could see our head torches coming down. They had already boiled water for us to drink and use for warmth, arranged sleeping bags to get us warm quickly, had food ready, Pema arranged water for my hands and he warmed my feet. The guys knew that due to being out for nearly 32 hours [Corrected], we needed support quickly.)

  About 2 hours out of camp we came upon a climber from another team, the climber who had been behind me at times during the climb, and we told him matter-of-factly to follow us to camp. He said he was heading up etc. We said several times to come with us and he then said he would follow behind Lakpa. We continued down. I turned around after 20 minutes or so (altitude time) to discover he was not behind us. I kicked myself that we had not waited for him to be on our heels. When we got to camp, I could see his head torch in the same place but I surmised (wrongly) that he just wanted to reflect on the climb and would come down when he was ready.
  I woke up in the morning at around 7:45am to news the climber was dead, where we last saw him.

  I was devastated by my failure to act. Although I questioned how he ended up there in the dark, in the middle of the night by himself without any of his team members, I questioned more how I could actually leave him there, regardless of my exhausted state. I ran his words and behaviour through my head and realised that the dour comments he had made to me earlier in the push were more likely symptoms of cerebral edema than him trying to be ‘annoying’, and the comments he made in the middle of the night and his behavior were most likely attributable to the same.

  Then, within the next 15 minutes, we were then told he was STILL ALIVE.

  [Update 21/05/18: I asked a lot of questions in the intervening period as there were some things not making sense to me...  a lot happened in that 15 minutes...]

  Lakpa and I quickly told the other team’s members who were present to get oxygen up to him and we gave them a big dose of altitude medicine to get up to him, and told them how to administer it. I called down quickly to Chris (USA) Warner at base camp on our radio to double check the dose of medicine, as I was conscious I may not have all my brain cells working and he confirmed the dose. Chris also switched straight into rescue mode knowing a lot of people had been at this altitude too long and the risk of injury or death remained high for a lot of us. He also knew all the right words to say to me to make sure that Lakpa, myself, and other people in our team did not put ourselves in more danger. Chris knew I wanted to go up to the stricken climber, but at the same time my legs were reluctant to go anywhere. Chris said all the right things so that my brain focused on self-preservation and for us to ‘assist’ the other team with the stricken climber, but that we packed up to go down ourselves – I still had 7 hours ahead of me back to base camp from Camp 4. I kept watching movements up the mountain and it was more than ~3.5 hours after being told he was dead before the climber moved 5-10 metres. I descended at the point where a Sherpa guide reached the climber with the altitude medicine. He was evacuated by his team to Camp 3 yesterday and was evacuated further today by heli to Kathmandu. We also left the other team oxygen for the rescue mission. [FYI, our team members – foreigner and Nepali – carry altitude medicine in our backpacks].

  (Whilst still at Camp 4, I asked the other team how one of their other team members was as I had not seen her. I was told she was fine but was only still sleeping because she was back into camp late because she had tried to get [the stricken climber] back to camp. Then, I realised just how many things had gone wrong. At the time of me writing this she is still high on the mountain and is being accompanied down. I’m hoping she is ok. Word of caution: check on your team members regularly and please don’t assume they are ok.)

  [Update 21/05/18: it has been an interesting experience meeting up with Kanch climbers in Kathmandu and debriefing on the summit push. Some have incredible recollections of the push, and specifics. Piecing things together from where I and others were on the mountain has been really enlightening. It can all only be helpful for everyone for future climbs.]

  As we descended to Camp 2, we met the leader of another team, AT, that plans to go up for a potential weather window of 21-22 May. We downloaded our experience to him, re conditions and taking more rope and wished them the very best of luck. Their team had been watching us climb through a high powered lens so they could see us summit, he said. As we passed Sherpas heading up they were so lovely to Lakpa, knowing all that he had done to make summits possible. I was so happy for him to be recognised for his efforts as he is very low key when it comes to these things. Lakpa and I reached base camp at 6:45pm yesterday and our bodies are wrecked. We need to re-hydrate and rest. We are taking things slowly. I’m soon to check the toes on my left foot again in daylight today to hopefully distinguish cold damage from bruising. I have some frostnip on some fingers – manageable. Huge thanks to Pema who, at Camp 4, helped me to manage this quickly in the middle of the night.

  [Update 21/05/18: AT advised that it had numerous Sherpas available to complete the route setting - a section which by alpine (rope) style was about 2.5 hrs for their push making the route safer and faster, with summit success on 20/05/18 with more updates to come, AT advises.]

  So much more to this story than I can put here. Kanch, I think, is a mountain much harder to climb than K2 via the normal routes on each mountain, especially when you put together technical difficulty, distances, time to summit, conditions, weather etc. Kanch is somewhat ‘lost’ in the discussion as (only) the 3rd highest mountain in the world. I knew the distances to cover were huge but they are in fact HUGE! When you are sure the summit must be near, it is not. Even when Pemba Geljen from our team was describing the last section to me as he descended, it seemed like 20 minutes. I’m sure it took me another 2-3 hours. Of course, on his own terms, Lakpa would have been to the summit much faster.

  Originating from a small town in NZ you would think I could say I was the first person from my town to summit. But, nup, I’m 63 years too late to be first (Ha ha). I follow in the big steps of Norman Hardie from the first ascent team in 1955 and I salute him for his amazing trail-blazing achievement. He will have known forever just how hard this mountain is to climb.

  [Update 21/05/18: to date, 3 NZers including the late and great Marty Schmidt and 5 Australians have climbed Kanch.]

  I have to thank my lovely partner and husband, Lakpa, for making this summit happen for me. I could not have done it without him. We both know each others’ limits on this kind of thing, his limits are far beyond mine, and he knew I had the stuff to keep going and that we could get up and then get down safely, even in the dark. We had a weather day that was a gift of the universe – one like no other for a climb of that duration.

  Everything aches at the moment. Time to go and eat, drink and rest, and to process everything. I’m still a bit overwhelmed and finding it hard to move too far.

  And, out of the blue yesterday, a dog appeared in base camp and today it climbed up on the snow to the ice wall just below Camp 1, where it started crying because it could climb no further. The dog just returned to our base camp wagging its tail madly. Time to feed the dog too.

  Huge thanks to Lakpa and the amazing Expedition Base team, to the wonderful foreign team members from whom I have learnt so much. Thank you to Kanchenjunga for allowing us the privilege of climbing safely on her slopes. May all climb safe for the remainder of this season.

  I will post a follow up with more photos soon.


expid: KANG18105
peakid: KANG
year: 2018
route1: SW Face
nation: Chile
leaders: Rodrigo Vivanco
sponsor: Chilean Kangchenjunga Expedition 2018
approach: Flight to Taplejung, trekked to BC
bcdate: 2018-04-29
smtdate: 2018-05-20
termdate: 2018-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 8500m due to miscalulation of summit point
campsites: BC(29/04,5500m),C1(02/05,6100m),C2(03/05,6250m),C3(14/05,6800m),C4(15/05,7300m),xxx(20/05,8500m)
agency: Adventure Geo Treks
routememo:
  BC  29/04  5500m
  C1  02/05  6100m
  C2  03/05  6250m
  C3  14/05  6800m (lower C3)
  C4  15/05  7300m
  HPt 20/05  by Vivanco at 1.30 pm.

  Vivanco reached C4 on 15/05 hoping that he could join the Seven Summit Treks group on their way to the summit. However, they had gone already. He stayed in the tent of Asian Trekking for three nights; however, on the night of 18/05 he had to bivouac as the clients of Asian Trekking had arrived.

  On 18/05, he met some Sherpas from Asian Trekking who told him that they were going up on 19-20/05 and that's when he decided to stay for another night.

  He left C4 at 8 pm on 19/05. The Asian Trekking group had left at 6 pm. The whole route was fixed all the way to the summit. It took him 17 hours to get to the summit. He spent about 30 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where he arrived at 9:30 pm.

  [Note: summit photos taken by Vivanco show that he only reached to about 8500m.]

  On 21/05, he descended all the way to BC, which took him all day. During his descent he noticed that he had frostbite on his right big toe. He was hoping to catch a helicopter at least to Tseram, but the weather was too bad and it was not possible. So, he walked all the way to Taplejung, which probably damaged his toe a bit more.

  Munoz Ubilla reached C2 on 03/05. On their descent, she got hit by a rock near C2. The rock fractured her right hand. They continued to BC. On 05/05 she was evacuated by helicopter and returned to Kathmandu. She left Kathmandu on 07/05 to return to Chile.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used

  Frostbite on right big toe.

  Left BC on 24/05 trekking to Taplejung.


expid: KANG18106
peakid: KANG
year: 2018
route1: SW Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Mingma Gyalje Sherpa
sponsor: Imagine Nepal Kangchenjunga Expedition 2018
countries: China
approach: Pangboche, Heli to Kangchenjunga BC
bcdate: 2018-05-20
smtdate: 2018-05-23
smttime: 0600
campsites: BC(20/05),C2(21/05),C3(22/05),Smt(23/05)
agency: Imagine Nepal
routememo:
  Excerpted Imagine Treks website:

  Here we start our 2018 Kangchenjunga expedition. We have one member, three Sherpas and leader Mingma Gyalje.

  10-04-2018: Our Kangchenjunga Sherpas Phur Geljen and Nawang Rakpe have departed from Kathmandu for the preparation of expedition.

  20-05-2018: Today our team  (one member and Ms. Nima Jangmu Sherpa) and leader Mingma Gyalje head to the Kangchenjunga BC.

  21-05-2018: Today our team reached C2. Tomorrow morning our team will move to C3.

  22-05-2018: This morning 10 am our team reached C3. Our team plans to leave C3 for summit at 7 pm tonight.

  23-05-2018: Our team reached Kangchenjunga summit this morning. Congratulations to our member Ms. Dong Hong-Juan and leader Mingma Gyalje and Sherpas Phur Geljen, Nawang Rakpe and Ms. Nima Jangmu. Nima Jangmu Sherpa made historic ascent on Kangchenjunga. She became first lady to climb 3x8000m peaks (Everest, Lhotse and Kangchenjunga) in one season, i.e., in 25 days. She also became first and only Nepalese female on Kangchenjunga in first season 2018, she has not just showed her physical strength and willpower, but also showed that women can do same thing as what men do (women's empowerment). Congratulations to Nima Jangmu Sherpa and thanks for inspiring other (women) in around the world.

  12:00 pm: Our team arrived back to C3 and they are going to take one hour rest and then will continue to descend down.

  05:00 pm: Our Kangchenjunga team members safely arrived back to base camp. We are very thankful to our strong Sherpa team for this successful and historic ascent.

  27-05-2018: Today our team will arrive to Kathmandu and Everest Summiter Club has organised the congratulatins program to Nima Jangmu Sherpa for making world record (3x8000m in one season). Here we conclude our 2018 Kangchenjunga expedition with great achievement.


expid: KANG18107
peakid: KANG
year: 2018
route1: SW Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Chung Ei-Chul
sponsor: Destination Holiday Trek Kangchenjunga 2018
approach: Heli from Tseram
bcdate: 2018-04-12
smtdate: 2018-05-16
termnote: Abandoned at 8350m due to coldness and lack of fixed ropes
campsites: BC(12/04),C1,C2,C3,C4,xxx(16/05,8350m)
agency: Destination Holiday
routememo:
  From Chris Burke:

  Chung Ei-Chul from South Korea turned back at the end of the fixed ropes (8350m) on 16/05. He got frostbite on his foot.


expid: LHOT18101
peakid: LHOT
year: 2018
route1: S Col-W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Greg Vernovage
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-05
smtdate: 2018-05-22
smttime: 0450
termdate: 2018-05-25
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-181-25)
agency: Beyul Adventure
primid: EVER18125
campsites:
  BC(05/04,5350m),C1(12/04,5900m),C2(14/04,6440m),C3(24/04,7000m),C4(20/05,7900m),EVER.Smt(21/05),LHOT.Smt(22/05)

routememo:
  BC  05/04  5350m
  C1  12/04  5900m
  C2  14/04  6440m
  C3  24/04  7000m
  C4  20/05  7900m
  Ever Smt 21/05 by Godcharles and Chhewang Lendu at 5:29 am.
  Lhot Smt 22/05 by Godcharles, Phunuru, Chhewang Lendu, Nima Nuru at 4:50 am.

  Aftering summiting Everest and returning to Everest C4, Godcharles, Chhewang Lendu, Nimu Nuru, Phunuru left C4 at 11:15 pm on 21/05, descended to Lhotse C4 and continued to the summit and reached the summit by 5 am. They descended to C2, where they arrived at 10 am.


expid: LHOT18102
peakid: LHOT
year: 2018
route1: S Col-W Face
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Guy Cotter
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2018
countries: Ireland, Singapore
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-03-30
smtdate: 2018-05-17
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2018-05-26
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-181-07)
agency: Himalayan Guides
primid: EVER18107
campsites:
  BC(30/03,5350m),C1(20/04,5900m),C2(22/04,6440m),C3(14/05,7000m),C4(15/05,7900m),EVER.Smt(16/05),LHOT.Smt(17/05)

routememo:
  BC  30/03  5350m
  C1  20/04  5900m
  C2  22/04  6440m
  C3  14/05  7000m
  C4  15/05  7900m
  Ever Smt 16/05 by Cotter and Leow Kah Shin, Nima Tshering, Pasang Bhote, Prakash
             (Pemba) Sherpa at 8 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 9:30 pm on 15/05. Big queues of Indian and Chinese. Straightforward climb. They spent about 45 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 1:15 pm. At 2 am on 17/05 Cotter, Leow Kah Sin and Pasang Bhote and Dawa Bhote left C4 at 2 am, traversed to Lhotse C4 and up to Lhotse.

  Lhotse Smt: 17/05 by Cotter, Leow Kah Shin, Pasang Bhote, Dawa Bhote at 8 am.

  They descended to C2, where they arrived at 4:15 pm.


expid: LHOT18103
peakid: LHOT
year: 2018
route1: S Col-W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Garrett Madison
sponsor: Madison Mountaineering Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-12
smtdate: 2018-05-19
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2018-05-21
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (EVER-181-08)
agency: Himalayan Guides
primid: EVER18108
campsites:
  BC(12/04,5350m),C1(19/04,5900m),C2(21/04,6400m),C3(16/05,7000m),C4(17/05,7900m),EVER.Smt(18/05),LHOT.Smt(19/05)

routememo:
  BC  12/04  5350m
  C1  19/04  ,900m
  C2  21/04  6400m
  C3  16/05  7000m
  C4  17/05  7900m
  Ever Smt 18/05  by Madison, Miller and Mingmar at 5 am.

  The summit team left at 9 pm on 17/05. There must have been about 100 people on the route. Best conditions on the mountain Madison had ever seen on Everest. There is a huge cornice right on the top of Everest now. As they were so early some of them had to stop at the South Summit 3 am to kill some time. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at around 9:30 am. 

  Lhotse Smt 19/05 by Madison, Miller, Mingmar at 9 am.

  Lhotse summiters left C4 on Everest at 3:30 am. They changed oxygen at Lhotse C4 and continued to the summit. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to C2.

  Everyone (Everest and Lhotse summiters) at C2 on 19/05.


expid: LHOT18104
peakid: LHOT
year: 2018
route1: S Col-W Face
nation: UK
leaders: Tim Mosedale
sponsor: Tim Mosedale's Everest-Lhotse-Nuptse Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-14
smtdate: 2018-05-18
smttime: 0530
termdate: 2018-05-22
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-181-10); attempted Nuptse (NUPT-181-01)
agency: Himalayan Guides
primid: EVER18110
campsites:
  BC(14/04,5350m),C1(21/04,5900m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3(13/05,7000m),C4(16/05,7900m),EVER.Smt(17/05),LHOT.Smt(18/05)

routememo:
  BC  14/04  5350m
  C1  21/04  5900m
  C2  23/04  6400m
  C3  13/05  7000m
  C4  16/05  7900m
  Ever Smt 17/05 by Booth at 8:40 am
  Lhot Smt 18/05 by Booth at 5:30 am.

  17/05 left C4 at around 9 pm. They spent about an hour on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at about 10:30 am.

  Booth stayed until midnight and continued to climb Lhotse. Booth reached the Lhotse summit on 18/05 at 5:30 am, then descended to C2 from Lhotse summit.


expid: LHOT18105
peakid: LHOT
year: 2018
route1: S Col-W Face
nation: UK
leaders: Jon Gupta
sponsor: Mountain Expeditions Project 7in4 Expedition 2018
countries: Australia
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-18
smtdate: 2018-05-15
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2018-05-17
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-181-11); attempted Nuptse (NUPT-181-02)
agency: Himalayan Guides
primid: EVER18111
campsites:
  BC(18/04,5350m),C1(21/04,5900m),C2(22/04,6400m),C3(12/05,7000m),C4(13/05,7900m),EVER.Smt(14/05),LHOT.Smt(15/05)

routememo:
  BC  18/04  5350m
  C1  21/04  5900m
  C2  22/04  6400m
  C3  12/05  7000m
  C4  13/05  7900m
  Smt 14/05  by Plain, Gupta, Pemba Dorje at 7:30 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 10:30 pm on 13/05. Weather was good and calm. They spent about 40 minutes on the summit and then descended to C4, where they arrived at 11 am.

  On 15/05 they left Everest C4 at 5 am and descended to Lhotse C4 (7700m), where they deposited their gear and went to climb Lhotse. They set out from Lhotse C4 at 6:30 am.

  Lhotse Smt 15/05 by Plain, Gupta at 12:30 pm.

  They spent about 2 minutes on the summit and descended to Lhotse C4, took it down and continued to BC, where they arrived at 9:30 pm. Rested at BC on 16/05.

  Left BC on 17/05 heli to Lukla.

  Everset-Lhotse Oxygen:
    From C3 to Everest top to Lhotse top to Lhotse C4 by Gupta and down to C2 by
      Plain.


  Anthony Middleton and Edward Wardle were independent clients of Himalayan Guides.


expid: LHOT18106
peakid: LHOT
year: 2018
route1: S Col-W Face
nation: UK
leaders: Dani Fuller
sponsor: SummitClimb Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2018
countries: Australia, Canada, Germany, Sweden, Switzerland, USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-18
smtdate: 2018-05-22
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2018-05-27
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-181-26)
campsites: BC(18/04,5350m),C1(27/04,5900m),C2(29/04,6440m),C3(21/05,7000m),C4(22/05,7600m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Everest Parivar
primid: EVER18126
routememo:
  BC  18/04  5350m
  C1  27/04  5900m
  C2  29/04  6440m
  C3  21/05  7000m
  C4  22/05  7800m
  Smt 23/05  by Matthew Williams and Lhakpa Tendu Sherpa at 9 am,
             Thomas Taylor and Pasang Nuri Sherpa at 3 pm.

  Summit team left C4 at 2 am. Straightforward climb. They stayed an average of about 10 minutes on the summit.

  Williams descended to C2, while Taylor, Lhakpa Tendu and Pasang Nuri stayed at C4. They descended to C2 on 24/05. On 25/05, Taylor walked over a snow bridge, which collapsed. He fell in but fortunately he was on a rope, but fractured his ankle (his crampon got caught in the ice and then a piece of ice hit his ankle and twisted it). He continued to BC and was helicoptered on 26/05. He went to CIWEC where they strapped it up.

  Helko Weiner reached to below the Yellow Band (7550m). He had problems with his feet. They were numb due to wrong-sized boots and he turned back. The others continued.

  Taylor had problems with his regulators and only used one bottle to the summit. He thinks the reason he was so slow was that he was not getting enough oxygen.

  Kushwaha was intending to summit Lhotse as well, but abandoned the idea after his Everest climb.

  The several members were on the Lhotse permit for alpine-training purposes only and only intended to go to C3.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Tendu (Lhakpa Kormu), Patle-4, Okhaldhunga, 28/03/1977
    Pasang Nuri


expid: LHOT18107
peakid: LHOT
year: 2018
route1: W Face
nation: Sweden
leaders: Seven Summit Treks Staff
sponsor: Seven Summit International Lhotse Expedition 2018
countries: China, Germany, Japan, Malaysia, Ukraine
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-16
smtdate: 2018-05-16
smttime: 1400
campsites: BC(16/04,5350m),C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(18/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  The Seven Summit Treks Lhotse expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Seven Summit Treks provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Anders Bergvall (Sweden)

  Camps: BC(28/04,5350m),C1(03/05,6000m),C2(04/05,6400m),C3(14/05,7100m),
         C4(17/05,7700m),Smt(18/05)
  Left:  20/05/2018
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success (8:30 am)

  Summit team left C4 at midnight. Weather was calm and clear. The couloir was snowy. Straightforward climb. They stayed about 10 minutes on the summit, then descended to C2, where they arrived at about 5 pm.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to to summit to C3 by Bergvall and Vinayak.


  Thomas Laemmle (Germany)

  Camps: BC(16/05,5350m),C3(19/05,7100m),C4(20/05,7700m),Smt(21/05)
  Left:  23/05/2018 trekking
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Success (8:30 am)

  Laemmle came by heli directly from Makalu on 16 May after summiting on 13 May. On 17/05 Laemmle went down to Lobuche to recover a bit. He received a weather forecast that the 21/05 would be a good summit day. That's why he descended from BC to C3 in one day, which took him 11 hours. He left BC at 3 am and reached C3 at 2 pm.

  Laemmle left Lhotse C4 at 11:30 pm on 20/05. The conditions in the couloir were excellent. He spent about one hour on the summit and descended to C3, where he arrived at 11 am. On 22/05 he descended to BC and departed the next day.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


  Yachiyo Suzuki (Japan)

  Camps: BC(24/04,5350m),C1(5900m),C2(11/05,6440m),C3(13/05,7000m),
         C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(16/05)
  Left:  19/05/2018
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success (2 pm)

  Suzuki, Fursang and Tenzing Norbu started from C4 at 8 pm on 15/05. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to C3, where they stayed the night. On 17/05 they descended to BC.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C2 to top to C2 by Suzuki, from C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.


  Bian Lei-Chen and Chin Wui Kin were clients of Dreamer's Destination on the SST permit


expid: LHOT18108
peakid: LHOT
year: 2018
route1: W Face
route2: S Col-W Face
nation: China
leaders: Zhang Wei
sponsor: Chinese 14 Peaks Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-20
smtdate: 2018-05-20
smttime: 0752
termdate: 2018-05-23
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-181-18)
campsites: BC(20/04,5350m),C1(27/04,5900m),C2(28/04,6400m),C3(18/05,7000m),C4(19/05,7900m),Smt(20,22/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
primid: EVER18118
routememo:
  BC  20/04  5350m
  C1  27/04  5900m
  C2  28/04  6400m
  C3  18/05  7000m
  C4  19/05  7900m
  Ever Smt 21/05  By Qu Jiao-Jiao, Li Jiang-Hong, Mingma David Sherpa and one more
             Sherpa [Tenzen] Sherpa at 5:50 am.
  Lhot Smt 22/05 by Li Jiang-Hong, Mingma David and Tate Lakpa at 8:40 am.

  Everest summit team started from C4 at 8 pm on 19/05. Not so busy on the route. They spent about 15 minutes on the summit.

  Li Jiang-Hong summited Everest at 5:30 am and stayed at the summit for two hours. He descended to C4, where he arrived at 10 am. On 22/05 he left C4 at 2 am, got to C4 Lhotse at 2:20 am and started to climb Lhotse with Mingma David, Tate Lakpa and one more Sherpa [Tenzen]. They reached the summit at 8:40 am. They spent about on hour on the summit and descended to C4 Lhotse, where they arrived at noon, rested for one hour. Descended to C2, where they arrived at 2:30 pm. They stayed there until 6:40 pm and descended to BC, where they arrived at 12:45 am 23/05.

  Lhotse smt: 20/05 by Chang Jian at 7:52 am (no Sherpa, no O2).

  Chang left Lhotse C4 at 11 am 19/05. Straightforward climb. He spent about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to C3, where he arrived at 4 pm. On 21/05 down to BC.

  Lhotse smt: 20/05 by Qu Jiao-Jiao and one Sherpa [Tenzen] at 8:20 am.

  Qu Jiao-Jiao summited Lhotse before Everest. She was using oxygen and Sherpa support. She left Lhotse C4 at 11 am on 19/05 and climbed with Chang Jian. He was faster even though he did not use oxygen. She descended to Lhotse C4, where she rested till 7:30 pm. She arrived at Everest C4 at 9 pm, rested a bit and continued to Everest. She summited Everest on 21/05 at 5:50 am together with Li Jiang-Hong. She descended to C2. She took a helicopter from C2 on 21/05 and stayed the night at BC.

  Team left BC on 23/05 by heli.
  Heli from C2 on 20/05 Sun Yi-Quan.
  Heli from C2 on 21/05 Qu Jiao-Jiao.
  	
  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by all members apart from Li Jiang-Hong
    Li Jiang-Hong from C2 to top Everest, Lhotse back to C2
    Sherpas from C4 to top to C4
    Chang Jian did NOT use O2.


expid: LHOT18109
peakid: LHOT
year: 2018
route1: W Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Marco Camandona
sponsor: Italian Everest-Lhotse Traverse 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-19
smtdate: 2018-05-23
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2018-05-24
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-181-19)
campsites: BC(19/04,5300m),C1(25/04,5900m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(07/05,7200m),C4(22/05,7600m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
primid: EVER18119
routememo:
  BC  19/04  5300m
  C1  25/04  5900m
  C2  26/04  6400m
  C3  07/05  7200m
  C4  22/05  7600m
  Smt 23/05  Francois Cazzanelli and Marco Camandona.

  Cazzanelli and Camandona started from BC on 21 May, sleeping at C2. On 22 May to C4. On 23 May to summit. Started from C4 of Lhotse (7600m) at 11:15 pm (on 22 May), reached summit at 7:00 am (Cazzanelli)/7:30 am (Camandona), then back to Lhotse C4 at 11 am. Same day they were back to BC reaching at 6 pm.

  Oxygen:
    Lhotse:  not used by either Camandona and Cazzanelli


expid: LHOT18110
peakid: LHOT
year: 2018
route1: W Face
nation: Russia
leaders: Oxana Morneva
sponsor: Makalu Extreme Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Island Peak->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-26
smtdate: 2018-05-15
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2018-05-24
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-181-39); climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(26/04,5350m),C1(30/04,5900m),C2(01/05,6400m),C3(07/05,7000m),C4(14/05,7700m),Smt(14-15/05)
agency: Makalu Extreme Treks
primid: EVER18139
routememo:
  BC  26/04  5350m
  C1  30/04  5900m
  C2  01/05  6400m
  C3  07/05  7000m
  C4  14/05  7700m
  Smt 15/05  by Akkaev, Chatur Tamang, Pasang Lama Bhote, Kippa Sherpa at 6:30 am
      16/05  by Morneva, Pasang Dorje, Nima Nuru at 6 am.

  15/05 summit team started at 2 am. They took 4-1/2 hours. They spend about an hour on the summit. Akkaev and Kippa descended to C2.

  Chatur, Pasang Lama stayed at Lhotse C4 on 15/05 and waited for Morneva to come up to Lhotse C4.

  Morneva, Pasang Dorje and Nima Nuru left Lhotse C4 at 8 am. Morneva was already having trouble breathing on the way up. They spent about 5 minutes on the summit.

  Morneva's team descended to C4, where they picked up Chatur and Pasang Lama and they descended to C2, where they arrived at midnight. Morneva did not feel well. She had a sore throat and a fever. On 17/05 they rang a helicopter, but it could not land due to bad weather. She stayed at C2 for another night and broke a rib from coughing. On 18/05 Morneva and Akkaev were picked up by helicopter in the morning. She was taken to Swacon International Hospital, where she stayed until 21/05. She was diagnosed with frostbite in her throat.

  The whole team was affected by the flu at the beginning of the expedition.

  About 60 per cent of the Lhotse couloir was fixed by Mingma Gyalje. The team climbed up on a rope.

  Zakharov reached C1 on 30/04. He was intending to climb without a Sherpa, but realized that he was not able to and left the expedition.

  Kernitskiy broke his knee at the airport, thus did not reach base camp.

  Rustem Amirov - dead Russian on Lhotse

  Arrived at C4 on 15/05 and was looking for Chatur and Oxana Morneva. He said he did not have tent, sleeping bag or mattress. He asked to sleep in their tent. Pasang Dorje said took him into his tent. Pasang Dorje said that he could stay with them until SST Sherpas arrived and made a tent. There were five people in the tent. Rustem left the tent and SST Sherpas set up a tent where he moved into at around 7 pm. Rustem died on 16/05 at C3.

  Chatur saw him on 16/05 in the morning and Ruskin's face was already blue. Chatur told him to go down as he would die otherwise (as he did).

  Team left BC on 24/05.

  Oxygen: From C2 to top (Lhotse & Everest) to C2 by members and Sherpas

  Sherpas:
    Chatur Tamang (in database)
    Pasang Lama Bhote (on K2 in 2008 disaster)
    Kipa, Bakachol-9, Khotang, 08/10/1992
    Pasang Dorje, Samde, Khumbu 27/04/1993
    Nima Nuru


  Morneva - 7 April 2019

  Volshchuk reached C2 and then had problems with his lungs and left the expedition. He was admitted to hospital in Ukraine and was kept there for six months. He recovered and is now going back to Lhotse again [in 2019].


expid: LHOT18111
peakid: LHOT
year: 2018
route1: S Col-W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Ben Jones
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2018
countries: Canada, Mexico
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-10
smtdate: 2018-05-23
smttime: 0530
termdate: 2018-05-25
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-181-31)
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
primid: EVER18131
campsites:
  BC(10/04,5350m),C1(23/04,5900m),C2(26/04,6440m),C3(19/05,7000m),C4(20/05,7900m),EVER.Smt(22/05),LHOT.Smt(23/05)

routememo:
  BC  10/04  5350m
  C1  23/04  5900m
  C2  26/04  6440m
  C3  19/05  7000m
  C4  20/05  7900m
  Ever Smt 22/05 by Patry, Sanchez Fernandez, Karma Sarki at 6:25 am.

  On 22/05 at 11:30 pm Patry, Sanchez Fernandez, Jangbu Sherpa, Karma Sarki, Kami Gyalgen left Everest C4 for Lhotse.

  Lhot Smt 23/05 by Patry, Sanchez Fernandez, Jangbu Sherpa, Karma Sarki,
                 Kami Gyalgen at 5:30 am.

  After the summit they descended to C2, where they arrived at 10:30 am. On 24/05 down to BC.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C2 to top to C2 by members
    From C3 to top to C3 by Jangbu Sherpa
    From C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.


expid: LHOT18112
peakid: LHOT
year: 2018
route1: S Col-W Face
nation: Chile
leaders: Hernan Leal
sponsor: Fastco Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-22
smtdate: 2018-05-20
smttime: 0850
termdate: 2018-05-22
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
primid: EVER18132
campsites:
  BC(22/04,5350m),C1(5900m),C2(01/05,6400m),C3(03/05,7000m),C4(17/05,7900m),EVER.Smt(18/05),LHOT.Smt(20/05)

routememo:
  BC  22/04  5350m
  C1   --    5900m
  C2  01/05  6400m
  C3  03/05  7000m
  C4  17/05  7900m
  Ever Smt 18/05 by Leal, Lhakpa Chhiri Sherpa, Lhakpa Wangchu Sherpa at 8:45 am.

  Everest summit team left C4 at 11 pm on 17/05. Straightforward climb. They spent half an hour on the summit. It was windy. They descended to C4 where they arrived at 1 pm. On 20/05 they left C4 at 2 am. They descended to Lhotse C4, spent 10 minutes there and ascended Lhotse.

  Lhotse smt  20/05 by Leal, Lhakpa Chhiri, Lhakpa Wangchu, Lhakpa Chhiring 
                     at 8:50 am.

  They spent 30 minutes on the summit and descended to Lhotse C4, where they arrived at 1 pm. They rested for about 30 minutes and continued to C2 at 5 pm.

  Ancieta reached C2 on 01/05. He was too tired to continue and abandoned the climb.

  Team left BC on 22/05 by heli.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to summit to C3.


expid: LHOT18113
peakid: LHOT
year: 2018
route1: W Face
route2: S Col-W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Mike Hamill
sponsor: Climbing the Seven Summits (CTSS) Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2018
countries: S Africa
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-18
smtdate: 2018-05-19
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2018-05-22
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-181-27)
agency: TAGnepal Trekking (Satori Adventures pmt)
primid: EVER18127
campsites:
  BC(18/04,5350m),C1(24/04,5900m),C2(02/05,6440m),C3(16/05,7000m),C4(17/05,7900m),EVER.Smt(18/05),LHOT.Smt(19/05)

routememo:
  BC  18/04  5350m
  C1  24/04  5900m
  C2  02/05  6440m
  C3  17/05  7000m
  C4  17/05  7900m
  Ever Smt 18/05 by Wood and Pasang Tendi Sherpa at 7 am
  Lhot Smt 19/05 by Wood and Pasang Tendi at 6 am.

  Everest summit team left C4 at 10 pm on 17/05. Straightforward climb. They spent about 43 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at around noon.

  Wood and Pasang Tendi left C4 at midnight on 19/05. The descended to Lhotse C4, stopped for a bit and continued to Lhotse.

  BC  18/04  5350m
  C1  24/04  5900m
  C2  02/05  6440m
  C3  17/05  7000m
  C4  18/05  7700m
  Lhot Smt 19/05 by Carstens and Lama Kusang at 7 am.

  Lhotse ONLY team left Lhotse C4 at around midnight. Straightforward Climb. All summiters descended to C2, where they arrived at around 2 pm. On 20/05 everyone back at BC.

  Hamill was BC manager. He never intended to climb.

  Team left BC on 22/05 by heli.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to both smts to C3 by Sherpas and members.

  Lhotse Summit Sherpas: 
    Pasang Tendi Sherpa, Khembalung,Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha (27/10/1983)
    Lama Kusang Sherpa, Kurima, Solukhumbu [26/06/90]


expid: LHOT18114
peakid: LHOT
year: 2018
route1: W Face
nation: Kosovo
leaders: Flutura Ibrahimi
sponsor: TAGnepal Lhotse Expedition 2018
countries: Switzerland
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Lobuche East->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-22
smtdate: 2018-05-19
smttime: 0615
termdate: 2018-05-21
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East
campsites: BC(22/04,5350m),C1(24/04,5900m),C2(02/05,6440m),C3(17/05,7000m),C4(18/05,7700m),Smt(19/05)
agency: TAGnepal Trekking
routememo:
  BC  22/04  5350m (climbed Lobuche East beforehand)
  C1  24/04  5900m
  C2  02/05  6440m
  C3  17/05  7000m
  C4  18/05  7900m
  Smt 19/05  by Ibrahimi and Palden at 6:15 am [and Guillaume and Dawa Wongel]

  Team started from C4 at around 1:15 m shortly after Mike Hamill's Lhotse team. Straightforward Climb. Ibrahimi and Palden descended to C2, where they arrived at around 2 pm.

  Team left BC on 21/05.
  	
  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Ibrahimi
    From C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas

  Sherpas:
    Palden Nima Sherpa, Yaphu-9, 2035/05/13
    Dawa Wongel Sherpa, Waku-4, Solukhumbu


