# exped

expid: LHOT04101
peakid: LHOT
year: 2004
route1: W Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Norbert Joos
sponsor: Swiss Lhotse Expedition
ascent1: 92nd
countries: Czech Republic, Germany
bcdate: 2004-04-19
smtdate: 2004-05-15
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2004-05-17
campsites: BC(19/04,5350m),C2(26/04,6500m),C3(14/05,7800m),Smt(15/05)
agency: Himalayan High Country Treks
routememo:
  C2 at West Cwm
  C3 at West Face.

  Joos, Bittner, and Ang Pasang started from BC 13th May to C2. 14th Bittner not feeling well (chest infection), so stayed in C2 and Joos and Ang Pasang that day to C3. Left C3 at 4:15 am on 15th and on top 12:20 pm in fantastic weather, only little wind. Joos to ABC. All to BC on 16th. 

  Kurz broke a finger when he slipped descending Icefall on 28 Apr and left expedition on 29th Apr.


expid: LHOT04102
peakid: LHOT
year: 2004
route1: W Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Christian Kuntner
sponsor: International Lhotse Expedition
ascent1: 91st
bcdate: 2004-04-22
smtdate: 2004-05-15
smttime: 1220
termdate: 2004-05-18
campsites: BC(22/04,5350m),C1(28/04,6500m),C2(14/05,7800m),Smt(15/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C4 above Yellow Band, below Couloir of West Face.

  Both members 13 May from BC to C2. 14 May C2 to C4. Left C2 at 5:20 am and climbing up couloir and to left at top of couloir to top at 12:20 pm (Kuntner) and Andres (12:50). Kuntner waiting at top for Andres in wind but not very strong and clear weather above 7500m. Down to C2 at 8:50 pm with headlamps after having cleared C4. 16 May in BC.


expid: LHOT04103
peakid: LHOT
year: 2004
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Chris Warner
sponsor: Independent climber
ascent1: 93rd
bcdate: 2004-04-17
smtdate: 2004-05-15
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2004-05-20
campsites: BC(17/04,5350m),C1(22/04,6400m),C2(14/05,7300m),Smt(15/05)
agency: Himalayan Treks (Him Treks)
routememo:
  14 May from C2 Warner started for top at 10:00 am and on to C3 mid-afternoon. Left C3 at midnight and got top 3:00 pm via couloir. To east wall of clouds but to west clear, no wind. Back to C3 to sleep, down to C2 16th and BC on 17th. During summit push got stomach bug in C2 and developed bronchitis on route to C3. No frostbite. Constant rockfall all summit day (spent more time hiding than climbing).


  Henry Todd - 31 May
    
  Warner used Todd's camps and food to C3, then climbed by himself.


expid: LHOT04104
peakid: LHOT
year: 2004
route1: S Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Park Sung-Soo
sponsor: Peace 2004 Korean Highway Corporation Lhotse South Face
approach: Chhukung
bcdate: 2004-03-28
smtdate: 2004-05-15
termdate: 2004-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7555m due to lack of time and falling stones
othersmts: Planned to attempt Lhotse Shar
campsites: BC(28/03,5265m),C1(09/04,5970m),C2(20/04,6500m),C3(05/05,7100m),C4(09/05,7350m),xxx(15/05,7555m)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  BC at Lhotse Glacier (west side)
  C1 at South Face
  C2 at South Face
  C3 at South Face
  C4 at South Face.

  Route was Slovenian route. High point on 15th May at 7555m and stopped because needed 10 more days to top and plan was to descend West Face, but by time had reached top, Khumbu Icefall route ladders would have been removed. As weather got warmer many falling stones down C4 area and below and several members hit but not seriously. Monsoon starting with snowfall; so decided climb finished on 18th May. 

  On 15 May stopped at 7555m because of many falling stones. Another reason for abandoning climbs was members very tired, doing all route making without Sherpas. Route not technically difficult. Last part of route above high point very long and far from last camp and requiring 300m more rope and small traverse of summit ridge where no previous climbers had been. 

  Weh says this route not reasonable route; had planned to go for top of Lhotse Shar also from higher face, but didn't get high enough.


expid: LHOT04105
peakid: LHOT
year: 2004
route1: W Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Cho Hyung-Gyu, Lee Won-Hee
sponsor: For Peace 2004 Korea Lhotse Expedition
ascent1: 90th
bcdate: 2004-03-27
smtdate: 2004-05-15
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2004-05-18
othersmts: Had permit for Lhotse Shar, but did not attempt
campsites: BC(27/03,5350m),C1(6200m),C2(15/04,6400m),C3(13/05,7300m),C4(14/05,7800m),Smt(15/05)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  C1 at deposit only
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on West Face
  C4 below Couloir and rocks.

  C2 for top on 13 May in summit bid; Cho, Choi, Gu, Hwang, Jung and Oh and Phurba Zangbu. Slept at C3 that night and next am, all to summit: left C4 at 1:00 am and reached top 12:00 pm to 2:00 pm (at 12:00 pm Oh: 1:00 pm Choi, Gu, Phurba Zangbu; 2:00 pm Hwang, Cho and Jung). Down to C4 except Oh and Sherpa to C2. 16th Gu to BC, others in C2. All in BC 17th. 

  Lee at BC 29 March developed progressively restricted sight the right eye due to altitude, so left expedition 4 April.

  Fixed rope C4 to couloir: used 500m rope.

  Hyung-Gyu Cho was the general leader for both S Korean expeditions (W Face and S Face/Lhotse Shar).     


expid: LHOT04106
peakid: LHOT
year: 2004
route1: W Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Romano Benet
sponsor: Italian Lhotse
ascent1: 95th
approach: Lukla->Namche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2004-04-16
smtdate: 2004-05-16
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2004-05-23
campsites: BC(16/04,5350m),C1(30/04,6400m),C2(15/05,7800m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  May 16 Benet, Meroi and Luca Vuerich left (C4) C2 (of this expedition) at 04:30 hours. Benet reached summit at 12:00 hrs, stayed on summit until Vuerich arrived at 14:00 hours. Benet went down about 30m and waited for other member Meroi who reached summit at 15:00 hours. Vuerich and Meroi descended joined by Benet below 30m to camp at 7800m which they reached at 20:00 hours, slept in this camp. Next day to BC. Weather was good on summit; there was an oxygen cylinder - orange color. The expedition member saw a body (probably of Sherpa) at the beginning of coloir. They met a South Korean climber descending on their way up. There were no other climbers on that day. On 15th Kuntner, Andres, Koreans and Swiss expedition members did summit. 

  The expedition returned to KTM on 26th and leaving on 31st for Pakistan to join Italian expedition to K2. Benet, Mrs. Meroi and Vuerich will try from north side and rest of the members will try from south side.

  Others:
    Di Lenardo reached up to 7300m on May 9, did not sleep.
    De Luca (famous writer in Europe) suffered from mild headache, stomach disorder. 
       Left BC either on 17th or 18th; maybe left Nepal on 24th.
    Stroppolo reached up to 6400m on May 15 - spent night at C1 (C2) for this 
       expedition.
    Marina Vuerich same as Stroppolo.

  All these members were not planning to go to summit.


expid: LHOT04107
peakid: LHOT
year: 2004
route1: W Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Noryuki Muraguchi
ascent1: 94th
approach: Lukla->Thyangboche->BC
bcdate: 2004-04-08
smtdate: 2004-05-15
smttime: 1530
termdate: 2004-05-26
othersmts: Climbed Everest (EVER-041-59)
campsites: BC(08/04,5300m),C1(16/04,6000m),C2(21/04,6400m),C3(13/05,7300m),C4(14/05,7800m),Smt(15/05)
achievment: Oldest Japanese woman
agency: Asian Trekking
primid: EVER04159
routememo:
  Started from C4 at 1:30 am, summited at 3:30 pm, stayed for 30 minutes. Weather very coarse but could make pictures. 6-7 of Korean team and 2-3 Swiss team climbed at the same time. Also 3 climbing Sherpas from other teams. Came down to C4 at 6 pm.

  Oxygen: 
    Members in C3, to the C3, in C4, to the South, to C4, in C4, to C3, in C3.
    Sherpas: from C4, summit, to C4, in C4.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Ang Pasang Sherpa, Thami, 35, Everest X5
    Karchen Dawa Sherpa, 34, Khumjung, Lhotse X1, Everest X1


expid: MAKA04101
peakid: MAKA
year: 2004
route1: W Pillar
nation: Kazakhstan
leaders: Maxut Zhumayev
sponsor: Kazakhstan Makalu Expedition
ascent1: 81st,82nd
countries: Ukraine, USA
bcdate: 2004-04-17
smtdate: 2004-05-17
smttime: 1930
termdate: 2004-05-26
campsites: BC(17/04,5250m),C1(21/04,5900m),C2(26/04,6300m),C3(06/05,7400m),C4(14/05,7750m),Smt(17,20/05)
accidents: 2 fatalities
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC just above junctions of Barun and Chago Glacier
  C1 at just below point 5180m on Schneider map
  C2 at West Pillar 
  C3 at West Pillar
  C4 at top of Pillar.

  First summit party had tried to go to top on 15th. Brodsky, Molgachev and Rychkov and reached 8300m and turned back there at 4:30 pm (had left C4 at 6:00 am) because now too late and windy; back to C4. 

  2nd party, Sieger and Terzyul, left C4 at 6:00 am on 17th and on top at 7:30 pm (Ilyinski in BC saw them on top through telescope, in setting sun's light). After they reached summit, fog covered them and no longer seen and next day, Ilyinski saw Sieger come down to about 8300m and sit down 9:30 am, then Ilinisky stopped watching for 5 minutes and saw no one moving but saw red object, which was Sieger's body; Terzyul never seen again.

  Next summit party left C4, Zhumayev and Pivtsov at 0:10 am of 20th May and both on and up at 9:48 am and saw Sieger's body at 8300m where they were ascending and descending. Body was upside down with right arm extending up but head headed downwards amongst large rocks: impossible to move body. Returned to C4 at 6:00 pm.

  4 members made next attempt on 21 May from BC, Brodsky and Rudukov turned back at C2 from fatigue while Molgachev and Richkov continued up, reached C4 on 24 May, 11:45 am up from C4 for top but snowfalling and stopped at 8000m; windy and very cold and back to BC same day and now climb finished.


  Marty Schmidt - 3 June 2010

  The 2010 Ukranian team found Jay Sieger's body hanging from a rope at 7800m.


expid: MAKA04102
peakid: MAKA
year: 2004
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Colin Scott
sponsor: British Services Makalu Expedition
bcdate: 2004-04-08
smtdate: 2004-05-16
termdate: 2004-05-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to bad weather, dangerous conditions and lack of time
othersmts: Climbed Shershon Northwest (SHNW-041-01)
campsites: BC(08/04,4800m),C1(14/04,5800m),C2(20/04,6100m),C3(07/05,6600m),C4(15/05,7300m),xxx(16/05,7500m)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  BC at east side of Barun Pokhari
  C1 ESE of Barun Pokhari on ridge
  C2 on same ridge
  C3 on col north of Pt 6682m [incorrectly called Peak 3 on some maps]
  C4 at small notch on SE Ridge.

  From BC did not go up ice fall ENE of Barun Pokhari, but went ESE of the lake to a ridge running NNE over point 6260m and over Pt 6682m (Pt 6825m on Schneider Khumbu map). C1 was on ridge SSW of point 6260m. Then followed ridge over top of Pt 6682m to Col north of of it at start of SE Ridge. From Col traversed on South Face below ridge because SE Ridge extremely narrow above Col. Then went to SE Ridge at 7300m, where placed C4 on 9th May. Fixed 300m ropes about C4 10-12 May and down to BC to rest and wait for better weather, which had become bad with continuously daily snowfall. Back at BC 13 May.

  18th May 3 members went back up to go to C4 (Scott, Muddiman, Gale and Nima and Pema Sherpa): to C1, 19th to C2, 20th to C3, 21st and 22nd tried to go to C4 but get no higher than 7000m because of dangerous avalanching (snow) on South Face across their line of traverse; downward climb on 24th because now running out of time; Scott on 24th down to BC, others stayed at C3 and later stripped all gear. Pema went up to bring down C4 on 28th.

  Fixed ropes from C1 to Pt 6682m and on up to 7500m on ridge going up from Pt 6682m.
  40-5/mph winds - not scary climb.

  High points of members (not already given over):
    Berryman  - C3
    Boyce     - c6600m
    Burrell   - C3
    MacDonald - 7200m
    MacInnes  - C4
    Marshall  - C4
    Mellor    - C3
    Singleton - 7200m
    Tait      - C3
    Venables  - Pt 6682 summit

  Pt 6682m [Peak 3] ascents:

  All members except Boyce and both Sherpas summited via South Ridge on 4 May and in following days as they moved up and down their Makalu route to its SE Ridge. This was same route on Pt 6682m followed by Doug Scott's Makalu expedition in spring 1984.


  Taken from British Services Makalu Expedition 2004 - Expedition Report

  From the outset the selection of Makalu and Baruntse as objectives meant that both teams would be facing challenges of the very highest order. Reaching their respective summits was always going to provide a very significant test, with the weather and conditions on the mountain naturally playing a major part. Underpinning our preparation was detailed planning thorough training and success in sourching the necessary quantity and quality of food and equipment for the task.

  An ascent of Makalu, particularly the South East Ridge, continues to be one of the true great challenges of Himalayan mountaineering. Frustratingly, from the outset, the dangerous condition of the icefall added to the difficulty of our task by forcing us on to the longer route over Peak 3 [Pt 6682m]. Hampered by extremely strong winds and frequent heavy snowfall alone on the South-East Ridge with no other teams to kick the steps and no line of fixed rope from previous expeditions instead battering us with more wind and snow. To have reached the summit we would have needed a deal of luck but not to have had the opportunity to try was immensely frustrating.


expid: MAKA04103
peakid: MAKA
year: 2004
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Keith Kerr
sponsor: Jagged Globe Makalu Expedition 2004
ascent1: 79th
countries: USA
bcdate: 2004-04-18
smtdate: 2004-05-10
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2004-05-13
campsites: BC(18/04,5600m),C1(22/04,6300m),C2(24/04,6650m),C3(27/04,7400m),C4(09/05,7600m),Smt(10/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at bottom of icefall
  C1 at top of step hard ice
  C2 at middle of main Chago Glacier
  C3 at Makalu La
  C4 slightly raised section of Makalu La.

  From BC climbed the right (west) branch of Chago Glacier and put C1 on this glacier. Louis went to C1 and C2; on 20th down to BC and stopped his attempt because of loss of energy while Kerr up to C3 with 3 Sherpas. Then to BC rest for 3 days but had to stay 5 days because of strong wind high on mountain.

  4th May ABC to C2. 5th May to C3 but food tents destroyed so down to BC again. 7th May again to C2. 8th to C3 and pitching 2 new tents there. 9th made C4. 10th Kerr and 3 Sherpas left C4 at 3:00 am. Weather good but winds had blown much snow cover off of rocks so had to cross rock sections with crampons on. 2:00 pm on top in very strong wind but clear weather till near summit when nearly white out coming and going. In descent used 2 ice tools to keep from being blown off. At C4 site tent and contents gone in the wind, so using headlamps got to C3 without sleeping bags, back in C3 tent 8:30 pm. All to BC on 11th May.

  Oxygen: Kerr and 3 Sherpas sleeping in C2 and from top to C3.

  Summit Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Dorje, Sanam, Solu, Makalu X2, Lhotse X1, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Lhakpa Tenzing, Sanam, Solu, 21/12/70, brother of Lhakpa Dorje, 1st 8000er
    Chhepi (Chumbi) Bhote, Makalu area, Hatiya VDC, 30/9/74, 1st 8000er


expid: MAKA04105
peakid: MAKA
year: 2004
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Mexico
leaders: Mauricio Lopez
sponsor: Mexican-Spanish Makalu Expedition
ascent1: 83rd
countries: Spain
bcdate: 2004-04-18
smtdate: 2004-05-20
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2004-05-23
campsites: BC(18/04,5500m),ABC(21/04,5700m),C1(24/04,6800m),C2(12/05,7500m),Smt(20/05)
accidents: Lopez 4 badly frostbitten toes
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  BC  at Tangmar
  ABC at site of same high base camp
  C1  at Chago glacier's large left branch at bottom
  C2  at above Makalu La.

  From C1, climbed up glacier to NW Ridge, which they reached above Makalu La, then down to ABC to rest. 17 May, all 4 members and all 4 Sherpas left ABC for summit push and slept in C1. 18th to C2. 19th at 7:00 pm all left C2 for top. On 20th Fernandez and Dawa Chhiri reached summit at 10:00 am and down to C2 at about 9:00 pm. Lhakpa Sherpa stopped 40m below summit; Orvis, 2 Mexicans, Fura Dorje and Dayalu Sherpa stopped at a peak 10m below highest peak, a point they BC at reached at 12:30 pm. From this lower peak to highest one then was an extremely narrow ridge which only one person at a time could cross. Orvis asked Mexicans to wait here while he summited and returned to them and they did; they could follow then, but Orvis was very slow because he was not using any oxygen; he reached summit at 1:30 pm, so Mexicans now abandoned their plan to go to highest peak and all descended together down to snowfield at 8200m, which they reached as it got dark. Mexicans made unprepared biv here while the three Sherpas (Dayala, Fura Dorje and Lhakpa) continued down to C2. There was wind and snowfall all right and Lopez's toes became badly frostbitten. They left biv at 5:00 am on 21st, rested for 2 hours, all down to ABC at 10:00 pm. Left ABC 22nd to BC. 

  Helicopter evacuated Lopez from village 2 days walk from BC on 26th; Maoists would not permit helicopter to land higher.

  Oxygene:
    Orvis never used it
    Fernandez in C2 to top and in C2
    Both Mexicans in C2 to lower peak to 8000m, where it ran out
    4 Sherpas from C2 to their high points to C2.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Sherpa, Makalu, 38 years old
    Fura Dorje, Sotang, Everest X5, Lhotse 20/5/03
    Dayalu Sherpa, Sotang, 31 years old


expid: MAKA04106
peakid: MAKA
year: 2004
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge (variation)
nation: Spain
leaders: Peter Guggemos
sponsor: Makalu International Expedition 2004
ascent1: 80th
countries: Ecuador, Germany, USA
approach: Lukla->BC by helicopter
bcdate: 2004-04-19
smtdate: 2004-05-16
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2004-05-18
campsites: BC(19/04,5650m),C1(25/04,6550m),C2(14/05,7600m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  BC at usual BC site
  C1 at usual site
  C2 at usual site

  All six members left C2 at 01:30 hours on May 16. Ocho de Olza rached summit at 10:30 hours, Chicon and Vallejo at 12:30 hours, Valencia Martinez at 13:00 hours, Ogwyn at 16:00 hours. All returned to C2 between 14:00 hours to 20:00 hours. Guggemos had to return from 7900m due to strong back pain. Next day to BC. 

  The expedition team returned to KTM on 25th from Tumlingtar. The expedition members left Nepal on different dates. Ocho de Olza to leave on the 30th and Guggemos on 31st. Ochoa de Olza is going to Kazakhstan after few days in Spain. He will be coming for Cho Oyu in autumn. 

  Guggemos said that the members had to pay Rs 5000 each to Maoists. All except Guggemos stayed at Hotel Thamel.

  Route: NW side (French route in upper part more to left)  


expid: MAKA04108
peakid: MAKA
year: 2004
route1: NW Ridge-N Face of Kangchungtse-Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Christophe Lafaille
sponsor: Makalu Tibet 2004
approach: From Tibet
bcdate: 2004-04-21
smtdate: 2004-05-18
termdate: 2004-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to exhaustion
othersmts: Climbed Makalu II (MAK2-041-01)
agency: Asian Trekking (Dawa)
primid: MAK204101
campsites:
  BC(21/04,4900m),ABC(23/04,5750m),C1(25/04,6500m),C2(27/04,7200m),C3(series of Bivs),Smt-Kangchungtse(16/05,7678m),Biv(17/05,7400m),xxx(18/05,7700m)

routememo:
  BC  at Kangshung Glacier, west of Pethang Ringmo
  ABC at Chomo Longo Glacier
  C1  at top of north ridge on North Face of Kangchungtse
  C2  at NW Ridge of Kangchungtse
  High point at NW Ridge.

  29th to BC to rest: from ABC 14th May to C2. 18th up Kangchungtse NW Ridge and then over onto its North Face and biv on face at 7400m. 16th up North Face to Kangchungtse at 2:00 pm and then to Makalu La plateau and biv at 7450m. 17th crossed plateau to Makalu La and biv at La at 7400m. At midnight started normal route for top but too tired so stopped at 7700m at 2:00 am of 18th, fingers and toes cold; so returned to biv at La.

  Route on Kangchungtse not dangerous, very technical, but "beautiful" route. Technically more difficult than Bonington route on Annapurna I South Face; most difficult solo climb he was ever made, that night descended normal route of Makalu to high Makalu BC at 11:00 am of 18th and slept there. 19th down to Barun Glacier and at 5600m. Traversed east and northeast along high side of Barun Glacier to ridge running northeast to point 6140m Schneider Khumbu map and traversed northwest side of his ridge, crossed big flat glacier and crossed back into Tibet via point 6400m north-northwest of Chago down from pass on broken, steep, bad rock and back to ABC and slept there. 20th to BC.


expid: MAKA04107
peakid: MAKA
year: 2004
route1: E Ridge (to 6100m)
route2: SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Christian Trommsdorff
sponsor: French East Ridge Makalu Expedition
ascent2: 84th
approach: Via Kharta
bcdate: 2004-04-21
smtdate: 2004-05-29
smttime: 1415
termdate: 2004-06-01
achievment: New approach to East Ridge
agency: Thamserku Trekking
campsites:
  BC(21/04,4570m),C1(26/04,5800m),Biv(08/05,5700m),Biv(09/05,6700m),Biv(12/05,7300m);Biv(23/05,6100m),C1(26/05,6700m),Biv(28/05,7600m),Smt(29/05)

routememo:
  BC  at Saktekang and North Glacier
  C1  at East Ridge
  Biv at SE Ridge
  Biv at SE Ridge
  Biv at SE Ridge
  C1  on SE Ridge
  Biv on at 7600m in eastern cwm.

  From BC went to East Ridge (Japanese NE Ridge) up at 6100m on 2nd May; stopped because snowfall every day morning had to remake trail everyday. Back to BC on 3rd with all gear. All 4 high altitude, tents and all but 1 stove stolen from BC, so went over to SE Ridge via South Col 5600m high down into Nepal and joined British at C1. At 5700m and biv there on 8th May and biv at British C2 at 6700m. From here French helped fix ropes and established C3 at 7300m on 12 May. 

  Back to BC in Tibet in 14th because this had been acclimatization climb and to prepare for summit push. Waited for good weather forecast. Up from BC 22nd May to 5700m on SE Ridge (base of SE Ridge) while Graziani bived at 6100m next to British intermediate camp. Trommsdorff and Wagnon joined Graziani on 25th May at 6100m. 26th Wagnon to 6700m, 27th to C3 at 7300m, 28th to 7600m via ridge down into Eest (Cwm) and slept there at British C4. 29th Graziani to top at 4:30 pm CST (2:15 NST) (all left C4 at 8:35 am). Trommsdorff stopped 8100m because terrain above very steep and exposed and he was too tired to make safe return; Wagnon stopped at 8250m for same reasons (both also stopped because had had bad night, both wind storm and not proper tent). All slept in C4 that night. 30th to 6100m and found their food, gear, clothes and ropes above had been removed; slept there in poor tent and no food and drink. 31st up to beginning of rope left, took it down and used it to get down to C1 at 5700m, where deposit there including video camera stolen, saw no food and drink still. Down to BC, getting drinking water from stream and in BC at 9:00 pm Chinese time. Left BC 1 June.

  This team's access to East Ridge new route and to C1 on East Ridge.


expid: MAKA04104
peakid: MAKA
year: 2004
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Norway
leaders: Sven Gangdal
sponsor: Makalu Expedition 2004
ascent1: 78th
countries: Australia, Czech Republic
bcdate: 2004-04-06
smtdate: 2004-04-21
smttime: 0915
termdate: 2004-04-27
campsites: BC(06/04,5800m),C1(10/04,6500m),C2(18/04,7500m),C3(20/04,7800m),Smt(21/04)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  C2 at above Makalu La.

  Route between BC and C1 was more direct than normal line and enabled team to put C1 higher than usual by 100m. Very long route from C1 to C2. C3 occupied by Parker, Gangdal and Dawa Tshering, but at 3:00 am on 21st and Parker had no strength to go on up and only Gangdal and Dawa Tshering went for top. Left C3 at 3:45 am and reached top 9:15 am on beautiful morning, no wind but very cold in dark but in sun was quite warm; fine view of Everest and Kangchenjunga. Made a second variation of normal route by not going up couloir but up difficult rock ridge left of couloir for 200m on way to summit and went under false summit higher up. Went from summit to BC; returned to BC at 6:30 pm for Gangdal and 4:00 pm for Dawa Tshering. 

  Nezerka and Volden to C2 only, Voldmo not above 7100m. Parker stayed on mountain to make another summit bid.


  Parker - 14 May

  Australian Parker returned to KTM today. On 4 June he said Gangdal's objective was for only him to get to the summit and he didn't expect Parker to do so. Anyway Parker made a summit bid. Left BC on 4th May to C1 with cook. Stayed 2 days in C1 because strong wind. Down to BC on 6th because had stomach trouble and cook's climbing experience was limited and so abandoned climb. Parker doubts that Gangdal actually reached summit. Gangdal moved up to C3 very slowly and was extremely exhausted when he arrived at C3.


expid: MANA04101
peakid: MANA
year: 2004
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Alberto Ayora
sponsor: Manaslu Expedition 2004
approach: Buri Gandaki->Samagaon
bcdate: 2004-04-10
smtdate: 2004-04-20
termdate: 2004-05-10
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(11/04,4800m),C1(13/04,5800m),xxx(20/04,6400m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site above Samagaon (at end of moraine)
  C1 at rock ridge 100m above Naike Col.

  Only 2 days of fine weather, much snowfall. 4 tents in C1 buried by 2.5m of snow. 14th April to BC. On 20th April 8 members (not Palop and Sabadell) from C1 to high point of 6400m: stopped by big snow avalanche, so back to C1 to sleep. Stayed in C1 until 21 April and down to BC. Afterwards went to C1 6-7 times opening route again by placing rope; avalanching sent them down again. On 27th April at about 6200m, encountered crevasse that was new at least 1.5m wide. Last time in C1, 8th May Blanco up from C1 to only 6200m and found snow conditions still dangerous and climb abandoned. All in BC 9th May. Left BC 10th May and returned to KTM via Marshyangdi River.


expid: MANA04102
peakid: MANA
year: 2004
route1: NE Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Ernst Marti
sponsor: Swiss Manaslu Expedition
approach: Dhading Besi->Arket->Labu Besi->Dobhan->Samagaon
bcdate: 2004-05-10
smtdate: 2004-05-22
termdate: 2004-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to bad weather (heavy snowfall)
campsites: BC(10/05,4900m),C1(14/05,5600m),C2(19/05,6700m),xxx(22/05,7500m)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal B/C
  C1 at 5600m at 100m below the usual C1 site
  C2 at little higher than usual C2 site
  High point at above the usual C3.

  Left C2 for summit on 22nd at 02:00 hours. Weather was good and reached at 7500m at about 08:00 hours. Could not go further - snow fall, heavy fog as weather turned bad. Retreated to C1 where they reached at about 15:00 hours. Next day to BC. 

  During the climbing period snowfall almost every day. Some days were very hot, 40 degrees. Could not do anything during those days. This Swiss Expedition met Spanish army expedition in Samagaon returning to KTM. The Swiss Expedition had to pay to Maoist Rs 2000 for the whole expedition in Dhading Besi and in Dobhan $40. The team returned to KTM by helicopter on May 31st and leaves on June 1. They had to wait long time for helicopter in Samagaon.


expid: PUMO04101
peakid: PUMO
year: 2004
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: SummitClimb Pumori Expedition 2004
ascent1: 144,145
countries: Australia, France, Ireland, UK
bcdate: 2004-03-09
smtdate: 2004-03-23
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2004-03-26
campsites: BC(09/03,5300m),ABC(11/03,5750m),C1(16/03,6200m),C2(22/03,6550m),Smt(23-24/03)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  BC  at lake (lower of 2 lakes)
  ABC at bottom of face (glacier now gone)
  C1  at SE Face
  C2  at just below East Col (20m below).

  Intermitted rock fall bad at 5000m just above ABC, but no injuries from it. Had to get ladders from tea house to bridge a crevasse at 6350m (5 meters wider), which crossed only once in each direction by each person. Perfect weather except windy towards end of climbing period.

  Members left early: 
    Dougherty to ABC only and left 14 March (altitude sickness) 
    Hysko to ABC only and left 20th March (respiratory infection)
    Lees to BC only and 10th March (altitude sickness)
    Rossiter-O'Flynn to ABC only and left 20th March (exhausted).

  Dolamore to ABC only, then sick but stayed at BC till climb ended.


  Marion Joncheres - 18 Dec 2007

  In my diary, I wrote that:

  * the 1st group (March 23) reached the summit around 3 pm, and was back at C2
    at 7 pm,
  * the 2nd group (March 24) left C2 for summit around 4:30 am and came back to C2
    at around 3 pm, which means the summit was probably reached around noon.


expid: PUMO04102
peakid: PUMO
year: 2004
route1: SE Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Angiolo Laviziano
sponsor: European Lobuje-Pumori Expedition
bcdate: 2004-03-29
smtdate: 2004-04-09
termdate: 2004-04-12
termnote: Abandoned at 6410m due to dangerous snow conditions
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East (all 4 members and Pemba Temba Tarteg on 27th March)
campsites: BC(28/03,5300m),ABC(31/03,5700m),C1(04/04,6150m),xxx(09/04,6410m)
accidents: Nothing serious; Nuess very slightly frostbitten finger
agency: South Asian Treks
routememo:
  BC  at new lake above Gorak Shep
  ABC at bottom of rock couloir
  C1  at bottom of SE Face.
  High point at big crevasse.

  Rented at Gorak Shep 4 ladders (2-4 metres each) for 8m crevasse on 4th and took to C2 on 5th April. Until now weather perfect but on 5th snowfall and on 6th and on 7th; all waiting in C1; on 8th weather very nice and 9th am weather Ok although clouds seen. On 8th Linz left because didn't like avalanche danger and [would be dangerous] for at least several days and no chance. On 9th carried ladders, fuel, etc to 6400m, needing to break trail in snow not yet settled (snow 25-45 cm deep). At 6400m Laviziano stepped into hidden crevasse up to lower chest. At 6410m very hard: requiring 2 ice tools and loose snow on ice slope so climb abandoned. 2-3 days needed for snow to settle and team had no time to wait so long.


expid: PUMO04103
peakid: PUMO
year: 2004
route1: SE Face
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Igor Sanzharevsky
sponsor: Sports Club 'Unit' Expedition to Pumori
countries: Russia
bcdate: 2004-04-21
smtdate: 2004-04-27
termdate: 2004-04-29
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to bad weather and lack of time
campsites: BC(21/04,5300m),C1(26/04,5800m),C2(27/04,5900m),xxx(27/04,5900m)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  BC near small lake below long one at Gorak Shep
  C1 at bottom of face
  C2 on pillar
  High point at C2.

  22 April to 5900m fixing ropes, then snowfall began and down to BC 22nd. Everyday snow fell and down to Dingboche 23rd to rest and wait for good weather. 25th back to BC. 26th to C1 to sleep and to fix better lines above it. All night more snowfall. 27th up the lines to 5900m; more snowfall that day but set C2 at rock platform. 28th decided not enough time to reach top. This is the first time in Himalaya and realized had not allowed in plans enough time for bad weather. All members businessmen who had to return home, so climbing attempt finished and back to BC 28th April.


expid: PUMO04104
peakid: PUMO
year: 2004
route1: S Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Tadeshi Irimajuri
sponsor: Tosa Pumori Expedition
bcdate: 2004-04-12
smtdate: 2004-04-30
termdate: 2004-05-04
termnote: Abandoned at 6430m due to bad weather and lack of time
campsites: BC(12/04,5370m),C1(17/04,5700m),C2(20/04,6100m),xxx(30/04,6430m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at Kangri Shar Glacier west of mountain
  C1 at small plateau covered by ice between SW and South Ridge
  C2 on South Ridge
  High point at South Ridge.

  Climb stopped at 6430m because time expired and weather bad (snowfall and wind). Reached high point from C2 and back to C2. 1 May cleared gear above C2. 2nd May to BC bringing down all equipments. Miss Tamura was hit by very small avalanche between C2 and C1 but not injured.


expid: RATC04101
peakid: RATC
year: 2004
route1: S Face-W Ridge (same as French-Swiss in 2003)
nation: France
leaders: Christian Roux
sponsor: Allibert Ratna Chuli Expedition
ascent1: 7th
approach: Beshishar->up Marshyangdi->Koto, up Nar Khola
bcdate: 2004-04-08
smtdate: 2004-04-19
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2004-04-21
campsites: BC(08/04,5200m),ABC(11/04,5600m),C1(16/04,6100m),C2(18/04,6500m),Smt(19/04)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at SSW of Ratna Chuli 
  ABC at moraine at bottom of glacier
  C1  at big snow plateau
  C2  at West Ridge.

  Steep wall from C1 to C2 with seracs, crevasse, icefall; could not climb it directly to ridge but had traverse face to get around enormous crevasse. Sherpas said more difficult than West Face of Lhotse; fixed 800m from C1 to C2. To reach summit from C2 followed West Ridge and around 6600m peak and down to col at 6400m. Left C2 at 5:30 am and on top at 11:00 am (Eynac and Sherpa); all other members stopped 150m below summit because weather now bad with winds and snowfall and others members not very experienced climbers. All back to C2 for the night with members finding difficult to descend in such weather which made them worried. Returned to KTM by plains from Manang.


expid: TENR04101
peakid: TENR
year: 2004
route1: N Ridge from E
nation: Japan
leaders: Ryozai Nakamura
sponsor: Japanese Alpine Club Tengi Ragi Tau Senior Expedition 2004
approach: Thami Og->Langmoche village
bcdate: 2004-04-18
smtdate: 2004-05-05
termdate: 2004-05-11
termnote: Abandoned at 6250m due to route difficulty and lack of supplies
campsites: BC(18/04,4750m),C1(21/04,5300m),C2(27/04,5800m),xxx(05/05,6250m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at plateau atop hill west of small river and east of small peak called Penlaka
  C1 on glacier
  C2 on col due north of Tengi Ragi Tau
  High point at steep wall of North Ridge.

  From C1 west to north end of col (point 5890m) on Schneider map of Khumbu. Very windy at col; up icy steep (650m) wall to rock slab where ice so thin and covered by snow to 6250m (top of wall is 6600m); fixed 250m ropes here. Stopped by rock slab where could find no hold and too dangerous to continue; so now on 5th May the only day of clear weather, so back to C2 by Fuji and 5 Sherpas. Fuji wanted to find alternate route but no other member went above 6000m and Sherpas did not want to continue the climb. Now only 2-3 days of food in C2 and only 100m rope left. Sherpas had really wasted a lot of rope in unnecessary places out of their concern for members age. On 6 May, descended to BC. Had tried to pass ridge on mountain right side on 28th April but waist-deep snow ended that idea; tried by same 5 Sherpas. Fuji only member above 6000m; all 5 others to 6000m but no higher. 

  Fuji arrived 17 Apr; to Lukla 18 Apr, arrived BC 21 Apr.


expid: YALU04101
peakid: YALU
year: 2004
route1: SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Um Hong-Gil
sponsor: 2004 Korean Yalung Kang Expedition
ascent1: 19th
bcdate: 2004-03-29
smtdate: 2004-05-05
smttime: 1508
termdate: 2004-05-12
agency: Windhorse Trekking
campsites:
  BC(29/03,5500m),C1(09/04,6100m),C2(12/04,6700m),C3(20/04,7300m),LowerC4(22/04,7600m),UpperC5(04/05,7900m),Smt(05/05)

routememo:
  BC at Yalung Glacier on rocky area
  C3 at Great shelf's lower edge.

  Um spent 5 days at C3 waiting for good weather for summit push. Got bad throat infection which made it difficult for him to speak above whisper.

  On 22nd April made a C4 at 7600m and on 23rd to 7800m (Um, Ha, Shin, Pasang Namygal and Phur Gyalzen) and stopped by heavy snowfall and heavy cloud cover so down to BC on 23rd April. 

  Left BC for another bid for top 28th (Um, Ha,Shin, and 6 Sherpas) to C1, to C2 29th, C3 30th; stayed in C3 to 3rd May because very strong wind. 4th May Um to new C4 at 7900m with 6 Sherpas and 4 Sherpas back to C3 while Um, Pasang Namgyal and Phur Gyalzen stayed in new C4. 5 May Um and they 2 Sherpas left C4 at 3:30 am and on top at 3:08 pm in clear weather but strong wind. Down to C3 at 9:00 pm and BC 6 May. Climb now finished. 

  Fixed total 3500m; BC to C1 800m, C1 to C2 600m C2 to C3 800m, C3 to upper C4 700m and upper C4 to top 600m. 

  Oxygen: 

  Um used climbing from upper C4 to top; took it off at top for 30-40 minutes taking pictures, on again intermittently climbing down from top to upper C4.
   
  Sherpas clmbing from upper C4 to top, while on top and down for top intermittents to upper C4.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Pasang Namgyal, 31/1/73, Khumjung, Everest North 21/5
    Phur Gyalzen, 16/4/70, Thami, Yilajung, Everest 22/5/03, Cho Oyu 27/9/03


expid: MAK204101
peakid: MAK2
year: 2004
route1: NW Ridge-N Face
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Christophe Lafaille
sponsor: Makalu Tibet 2004
ascent1: 28th
approach: From Tibet
bcdate: 2004-04-21
smtdate: 2004-05-16
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2004-05-24
othersmts: Attempted Makalu (MAKA-041-08)
campsites: BC(21/04,4900m),ABC(23/04,5750m),C1(25/04,6500m),C2(27/04,7200m),C3(series of Bivs),Smt(16/05)
achievment: 1st ascent of Kangchungtse from north
agency: Asian Trekking (Dawa)
primid: MAKA04108
routememo:
  BC  at Kangshung Glacier, west of Pethang Ringmo
  ABC at Chomo Lango Glacier
  C1  at top of north ridge on North Face of Kangchungtse
  C2  at NW Ridge of Kangchungtse.

  29th to BC to rest: from ABC 14th May to C2. 18th up Kangchungtse NW Ridge and then over onto its North Face and biv on face at 7400m. 16th up North Face to Kangchungtse at 2:00 pm and then to Makalu La plateau and biv at 7450m. 17th crossed plateau to Makalu La and biv at La at 7400m. At midnight started normal route for top but too tired so stopped at 7700m at 2:00 am of 18th, fingers and toes cold; so returned to biv at La.

  Route on Kangchungtse not dangerous, very technical, but "beautiful" route. Technically more difficult than Bonington route on Annapurna I South Face; most difficult solo climb he was ever made, that night descended normal route of Makalu to high Makalu BC at 11:00 am of 18th and slept there. 19th down to Barun Glacier and at 5600m. Traversed east and northeast along high side of Barun Glacier to ridge running northeast to point 6140m Schneider Khumbu map and traversed northwest side of his ridge, crossed big flat glacier and crossed back into Tibet via point 6400m north-northwest of Chago down from pass on broken, steep, bad rock and back to ABC and slept there. 20th to BC.


expid: YAUP89301
peakid: YAUP
year: 1989
route1: SW side
nation: UK
leaders: Michael Woolridge, Andy Fanshawe
sponsor: Blackspur Makalu Expedition 1989
ascent1: 1st
countries: USA
bcdate: 1989-08-27
termdate: 1989-10-20
campsites: Smt(Sep)
agency: Rover Treks
primid: MAKA89302
othersmts:
  Attempted Makalu (MAKA-893-02) and Kangchungste (Makalu II) (MAK2-893-01); climbed Chago (CHAG-893-01)


expid: EVER04163
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Nuria Balague
sponsor: Dones Everest 2004 (Women on Everest 2004)
approach: Ktm->Tingri
bcdate: 2004-04-25
smtdate: 2004-05-19
smttime: 0740
termdate: 2004-05-25
agency: Thamserku Trekking
campsites:
  BC(25/04,5050m),IC(5700m),ABC(28/04,6400m),C1(05/05,7000m),C2(15/05,7700m),C3(18/05,8300m),Smt(19/05)

routememo:
  From various web reports:

  Nuria and Maite summited on May 19 at 7:45 am. They employed two Sherpas Pemba and Dorje, but it is unclear what their exact roles were near the top and if they also summited. The Indian Navy team seemed to imply that the two women summited with their two Sherpas, but then the Sherpas descended without them, leaving them to fend for themselves. Their oxygen ran out on descent and they were directed (assisted) down to Camp 2 by the Italian team using radio contact. The Italians gave them oxygen and hot drinks at C2 and helped them down to C1.

  Summit Sherpas:
    Pemba Tenzing, 1975, Phortse, Khumbu, Everest 30/5/03
    Thendorje, Pangboche


  Email to Miss Hawley by Nuria

  We arrived in KTM last 31st March 2004. We stayed in Potala Guest Home and we travelled with agency Thamsherku. We left KTM to Tibet on 20th April. Before we did a trekking to the south face Everest for adaptation in altitude.

  We arrived at BC on 25th April.
  5th May C1 (7000m) Maite Hernandez and Nuria Balague.

  17th May C2 (7700m) Maite Hernandez, Nuria Balague, Silvia Ferrandis and the two Sherpas Pemba and Dorje.

  18th May C3 (8300m) Maite Hernandez, Nuria Balague and the two Sherpas Pemba and Dorje.

  Pemba Tensin Sherpa from Porthe, Then Dorje Sherpa from Pangboche, Maite and Nuria reached the summit at 7:40 (Nepal time) on May 19th.

  Up from 8000m we all used oxygen as far as summit and back to C3.

  The two Sherpas we had reached the summit with us, and they used oxygen like us.

  We left BC on 25th May and arrived in KTM on 26th May and we stayed in Vaishali Hotel. Nobody suffered any accidents, serious illness or frostbite although we had some difficulties on our way down on the 20th May from C3 to C2 due to snow storm, strong wind and bad weather. The Italian expedition helped us to go down from C2 to ABC.


expid: CHOL03301
peakid: CHOL
year: 2003
route1: N Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kang Sung-Woo
sponsor: 2003 Corean Alpine Club Nepal Cholatse Expedition
bcdate: 2003-10-05
smtdate: 2003-10-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to injuries from falling ice
agency: None
campsites:
  BC(05/10,4600m),ABC(4900m),C1(5450m),Biv1(28/10,5600m),Biv2(29/10,5800m),Biv3(30/10,6000m),xxx(6000m)


expid: HCHI03301
peakid: HCHI
year: 2003
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Masakatsu Nakamura
sponsor: Nagano Prefecture Mountaineering Association
bcdate: 2003-10-21
smtdate: 2003-11-11
termdate: 2003-11-13
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to encountering steep ice wall late in the day
routememo:
  May 2005

  Membership list provided by Yuichi Matsuda of JAC.

agency: None
campsites:
  BC(21/10),C1(24/10,5450m),Int(5600m),Int(5650m),C2(5700m),C3.ABC(5800m),C4(6100m),C5(10/11,6600m),xxx(11/11,6800m)


expid: CHOY04123
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Sergei Bershov
sponsor: Ukrainian Kharkov Cho Oyu Expedition
countries: Czech Republic
bcdate: 2004-04-30
smtdate: 2004-05-15
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2004-05-19
campsites: BC(30/04,5000m),ABC(30/04,5400m),C1(04/05,6400m),C2(06/05,7100m),Smt(15/05)
accidents: Kubicek throat infection
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  Arrived KTM 17 April, stayed at Nirvana Garden, left KTM 24 Apr. 

  From 7100m down to Tingri to rest 3 days and returned to C1 13 May. 14th to C2. Kubicek not above C2 (throat infection), so only 2 Ukranians to top on 15 May, slept in C2 and 16th ABC. 

  Returned to KTM 22 May, stayed in Ang Karma's house (Windhorse Trekking) and left Nepal 24 May.


expid: CHOY04309
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Norway
leaders: Jarle Tra
sponsor: Norwegian Cho Oyu Spanish Expedition 2004
approach: Kodari->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2004-09-08
smtdate: 2004-09-29
smttime: 1015
termdate: 2004-10-04
campsites: BC(08/09,4800m),ABC(12/09,5800m),C2(28/09,7200m),Smt(29/09)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  CBC/IC on 11th at 5300m.

  On Sept 29 left C2 at 03:45 hours NST, reached summit at 10:15 hours. Stayed on summit about 15 minutes, descended to C2 at 14:00 hours. Visibility at summit was very poor, no wind; rest of day weather was good. Before him was one German who summited. On his way down from summit Tra met Mrs Coelho coming up. 

  Tra returned to KTM on Oct 5 and left the country on 7th. He plans to return to try Everest from north side in the spring of 2005 (Monterosa).


expid: CHOY04301
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Poland
leaders: Boguslaw Magrel
sponsor: Polish Alpine Club (PKA) Cho Oyu Expedition 2004
approach: Kodari->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2004-09-08
smtdate: 2004-09-24
smttime: 1010
termdate: 2004-10-04
campsites: BC(08/09,4800m),ABC(12/09,5700m),C1(14/09,6400m),C2(19/09,7100m),C3(23/09,7500m),Smt(24,30/09)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 11th at 5300m
  ABC at usual campsite
  C1 at usual campsite
  C2 at usual campsite
  C3 at usual campsite.

  On Sept 24 Adamski and Kobielski left C3 at 04:15 hours NST. Adamski reached summit at 10:40 hours, spent about 30 minutes, descended to C2 where he reached a 01:00 hours. Jarzemski and Magrel left C3 at 02:00 hours and reached summit almost together at 10:10 hours. Both waited for Ogrodnik who arrived at 11:00 hours, stayed about 40 minutes, then descended three together. Jarzemski on snowboard from summit and stayed overnight in C3 for snowboarding.

  Next day Margrel reached C2 at 18:30 hours. Ogronik at 02:00 hours of Oct 1. Jarzemski did snowboarding from summit to C1. He reached there at about 16:00 hours with overnight at C3. The expedition members arrived KTM on Oct 05 and plan to leave Nepal on 08 except Magrel who will leave on 12th. The weather was good on summit day. All three members had good view of Everest.


expid: CHOY04302
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Cho Oyu Expedition 2004
countries: Ireland, Japan, Switzerland, UK, USA
bcdate: 2004-09-02
smtdate: 2004-09-26
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2004-10-01
campsites: BC(02/09),ABC(06/09,5600m),C1(07/09,6400m),C2(24/09,7100m),C3(25/09,7400m),Smt(26-27/09)
achievment: 1st double amputee summiter (Inglis)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  26th summiters and Inglis, Whetu and Brice left C3 at 3:00 am; Inglis, Whetu and Brice turned back at 10:20 above C3, back because Inglis's leg stump painful in artificial leg socket so he down to C3 to prepare stump for another attempt. All to top at 8:30 to 9:30 am with fine views of Everest, then descended to C2 (Bingham, Bradey, Fujibayashi, Inglis, Massimo, Staples, Whetu, Willis at 3:00 pm to sleep; all other summiters to C1 at 4:00-6:00 pm to sleep). Sherpas to ABC except Inglis (double amputee), Whetu, Lobsang Temba, Karsang Namgyal. 

  The 27th summiters left C3 at 3:00 am on the 26th and were on top on the 27th said Whetu. Down to C2 to sleep at 5:30 pm. Windle skied from top down to perhaps 7800m.

  Oxygen: 
    Sherpas none. 
    Members Benton, Bingham, Bradey, Dasey, Pavillard, Staples, Torkelson, Whetu,
    Windle from C3 to top to C3 or C2; all other members sleeping in C2 to top to
    C3 or C2.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Phurba Tashi, 24/5/71, Khumjung, Cho Oyu X3, Everest X8
    Dawa Tenzing, 22/7/70, Phortse, Everest X4
    Lobsang/Lupsang Temba, 23/5/68, Khumjung, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X5
    Karsang Namgyal, 24/5/71, Thami, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X5

  Tibetan summiters:
    Wang Chang, Everest 5/2004 on Brice expedition
    Tenzing, Cho Oyu X1
    Luo Qong


expid: CHOY04304
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Singapore
leaders: Syed Shaffique Aljoofri
sponsor: National University of Singapore Everest Training Exped to Cho Oyu
countries: Malaysia, USA
bcdate: 2004-08-24
smtdate: 2004-09-18
smttime: 0712
termdate: 2004-09-04
campsites: BC(24/08),ABC(28/08,5800m),C1(01/09,6500m),C2(07/09,7100m),C3(17/09,7500m),Smt(18,27/09)
accidents: Aljoofri pulmonary edema; Ee frostbitten fingers
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  18th Sept at 2:00 am NST for top; 7:12 am on top were Chow, Quah and Zerbe and 4 Sherpas Kami, Mingma, Karma and Teo and Dorje at 8:00 am. Saw Everest and all down to ABC; all returned to ABC to sleep. 

  Quah left 27 Sept C3 in for 2nd summit push without oxygen at 2:30 am and on top at 7:35 am, saw Everest and down to ABC to sleep. 

  This team first to arrive at mountain and did almost all rope fixing. 

  Oxygen: Sherpas none; all four members that summited (on 18 Sept) in C3 to top to C2. Quah used none in his second ascent of 27th Sept from ABC to top and down. Aljoorfri used oxygen when developed pulmonary edema while climbing from C2 to C3 on 9th Sept and was carried down to ABC and left early.

  Ee got frostbitten fingers on 8th Sept because his gloves were not adequate; left expedition 9th.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Kami Tshering (Ang Tshering), Pangboche, 1962, Everest X5, Cho X3
    Mingma Tshering, Phortse, 26/4/72, Everest X3
    Dorje Lama, Bhakanje, 9/4/76, Everest X2
    Karma Rita, Phortse, 21/1/76, Everest X2


expid: CHOY04306
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Australia
leaders: Andrew Lock
sponsor: Independent climber on Cho Oyu
bcdate: 2004-09-08
smtdate: 2004-09-25
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2004-10-03
campsites: BC(08/09,4900m),ABC(11/09,5700m),C1(16/09,6400m),C2(18/09,7100m),Smt(25/09)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  BC at Chinese BC.

  On Sept 26 Andrew descended from C3, passed through C1. He slipped on a rock and fell on his bottom. He carried a heavy load but carried on to ABC, where he stayed from 26th Sept to 2 Oct. October at ABC gave him painkiller. Had he not broken his coccyz he would have gone back to the SSW Face on Cho Oyu and Xixabangma.


expid: CHOY04307
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Jamie McGuinness
sponsor: Himalaya Project Cho Oyu 2004
countries: France
bcdate: 2004-09-13
smtdate: 2004-09-30
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2004-10-06
campsites: BC(13/09,4900m),C1(17/09,5700m),C1B(27/09,6400m),C2(28/09,7125m),Smt(30/09)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  BC above Chinese BC.

  Arnauld de Fouchier went up to C1 on Sept 23 for the day, turned back at ABC due to pulmonary edema. He got sick on 24 Sept was back in KTM on the 25 Sept. He walked back from ABC using oxygen.

  Jamie McGuiness did not use any oxygen and went to the real summit. McGuiness left C2 for top at 0:15 am NST on 30th, on top at 6:00 am and to returned to C1 to sleep at 3:00 pm.


expid: CHOY04308
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Hitoshi Tsuji
sponsor: San-Sui Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 2004-09-08
smtdate: 2004-09-25
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2004-10-04
campsites: BC(08/09),ABC(12/09,5700m),C1(18/09,6400m),Smt(25/09)
agency: Sansui Treks & Expeditions
routememo:
  In summit push from C1 they took small tent; left C1 at 9:30 am NST, rested 5 hours at C2 from 4:00 pm, left for top at 10:00 pm, reached C3 at 1:00 am on 25th and were on summit at 8:00 am. Saw Everest and Lhotse. Tsuji and Gurung down to ABC at 7:00 pm but Nizayama stopped to sleep, in C2 at 1:00 pm. Nizayama had skied up from 8000m, straight across summit plateau to summit and back to 8000m; distance skied was 2 km each way.


expid: CHOY04310
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Jorge Egocheaga
sponsor: Independent speed climber on Cho Oyu
bcdate: 2004-09-10
smtdate: 2004-09-26
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2004-10-01
campsites: BC(10/09),ABC(12/09,5700m),C1(14/09,6400m),C2(15/09,7100m),Smt(26/09)
achievment: Speed climb
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  After rest in ABC went from lake camp at 6000m, which is at bottom of mountain to C2 on 25 Oct to help another Spaniard who was sick (he is doctor), down to lake camp same day. Next day left lake camp for his speed ascent straight through all camps and got to top at same time as Ochoa's summiters at 10:00-10:15 am. Down to ABC about 6:30 pm NST. Took 8 hours, 29 minutes to top says member of Porzak expedition (US).


expid: CHOY04311
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Pierre Visintini
sponsor: Cho Oyu
bcdate: 2004-09-22
smtdate: 2004-10-12
termdate: 2004-10-16
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to wind and cold
campsites: BC(22/09),ABC(25/09,5700m),C1(30/09,6400m),C2(02/10,7200m),xxx(12/10,7500m)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  Ramliere went to 6400m on 30 Sept, had no motivation to go higher and left expedition 3 Oct. Visintini joined French Basque's 2nd Summit bid party of their leader Alcacebe, Arburua and Sallaberrenboda and went with them as far as 7500m then abandoned climbed because of wind and cold. Now no time to try again if weather improved. Down to ABC same day.


expid: CHOY04312
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Eric Alcacebe
sponsor: Association Cho Oyu
bcdate: 2004-09-22
smtdate: 2004-10-08
termdate: 2004-10-16
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to strong wind and snow threatening
campsites: BC(02/09),ABC(25/09,5700m),C1(28/09,6400m),C2(02/10,7200m),xxx(08,12/10,7700m)
agency: Himalayan Sherpa Excursions
routememo:
  From C2 7/8 Oct at midnight and got to 7700m, turned back because wind and snowfall storm by S Aguerre, P Aguerre and Domequ at 4:00 am (Chinese time) and down to ABC.

  2nd party of Arburua, Sallaberremborde and Alcacebe left C2 at 11/12 Oct midnight, climbed to 7700m at 4:00 am also stayed 6 hours to wait sunshine (very cold -30 C) and windy but no clouds. Waited also to see the mountain; saw mountain but impossible to go higher because of the fierce wind so down to ABC same day.


expid: CHOY04313
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Luigi Rampini
sponsor: Independent climber on Cho Oyu
smtdate: 2004-09-27
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2004-09-03
campsites: BC(Sept),ABC(12/09,5700m),C1(17/09,6430m),C2(19/09,7120m),Smt(27/09)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  25th Sept to C3 site and back to C2; left C2 26th 11:00 pm NST on top 27th 2:00 pm. At top saw Ama Dablam in clouds and prayer flags, was very cloudy. Descent very difficult to find routes in clouds, waited 1/2 hour for weather improvement and arrived at C2 8:00 pm. 27th to C1 and 28th ABC.


expid: CHOY04314
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Belarus
leaders: Irina Vialenkova
sponsor: Golden Jubilee Cho Oyu Expedition 2004
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2004-09-13
smtdate: 2004-10-05
smttime: 1440
termdate: 2004-10-07
campsites: BC(13/09,4700m),ABC(15/09,5600m),C1(20/09,6400m),C2(03/10,7100m),C3(04/10,7300m),Smt(05/10)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at CBC
  ABC at usual campsite
  C1  at usual campsite
  C2  at usual campsite
  C3  no idea about exact altitude.

  Oct 5 left C3 at 06:00 hours (NST),- summit 14:40 hours and left summit at 15:00 hours, reached C3 at 19:00 hours. Next day to ABC. Weather: some wind occasionally cold - got good view of Everest. She followed the footprints on snow as far as she reached. But she did not see prayer flags or the small pole on summit. Her Sherpa Mingma Gelu did not climb with her as the Sherpa got sick (she said it may be intention of Sherpa not to go up with her). The Sherpa went up to C2. C2 and C3 tents belonged to Tibetan expedition and she was allowed to use them. 

  She returned to KTM on Oct 8 and will leave on Oct 20. She lost both toes and parts of heels on Dhaulagiri, in 1995 Oct, where she had to spent 13 hours on open snow on descending.

  Mingma Gelu Sherpa: According to Vialenkova, summited Everest two times, Makalu two times, Makalu two times. She does not have other details about him. Mingma is brother of Lhakpa Sherpa.


  20 Oct 2004 - Eloise Barbier (Italian independent climber) and Tirtha Tamang: 

  Sherpas with her used other independent climbers on same Asian Trekking permit are sure she did not reach summit. She was a slow climber (perhaps because of amputated toes and heels in 1995 on Dhaulagiri), did not have enough time to top and return to C3. Other Sherpas went from ABC up to search for her and found her slowly descending from C3 to C2 in afternoon of 6th and reached ABC with her in evening - she was a slow climber and not a skilled one, not properly equipped and winds were very strong. She was also unpredictable in her actions (the reason her Sherpa did not go for summit with her).


expid: CHOY04315
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Australia
leaders: Zacharakis (Zac) Zaharias
sponsor: Army Alpine Association Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Normal
bcdate: 2004-09-08
smtdate: 2004-10-01
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2004-10-06
campsites: BC(08/09,4900m),ABC(11/09,5600m),C1(19/09,6300m),C2(25/09,7000m),C3(30/09,7500m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  Chris Warner did get up to 8100m (the plateau) but turned around due to cold feet; did not get frostbite, but toes are still numb. He turned around 2 Oct.

  George Lloyd got C3, spent a night there and retreated on 2 Oct due to exhaustion.

  Michael Van der List also turned around at C3 due to same reasons.

  Nicolas Bendeti got to above C1 (6400m), but turned around due to exhaustion and poor acclimatization on 30 Sept.


expid: CHOY04316
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Kazafumi Watanabe
sponsor: Independent climber
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2004-09-13
smtdate: 2004-10-02
termdate: 2004-10-07
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to bad weather
othersmts: Xixabangma (no summit)
campsites: BC(13/09,4700m),ABC(15/09,5600m),C1(17/09,6400m),C2(22/09,7100m),xxx(02/10,7600m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  High point just above C3.

  Oct 2 left C2 at 02:00 hours NST, reached 7600m at 06:00 hours, then started snowing and it was cloudy. No wind - returned to C2 sleep. Next day to C1. Waited for weather to improve and it remained bad then descended to ABC. 

  Arrived Xixabangma BC on Oct 9. Left BC for KTM on 15. Arrived KTM on Oct 16. Trying to leave country on 17. He plans to come for Makalu in spring of 2005.


expid: CHOY04317
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Australia
leaders: Bruce Gibbens
sponsor: Golden Jubilee Cho Oyu Expedition 2004
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2004-09-13
smtdate: 2004-09-15
termdate: 2004-09-22
termnote: Abandoned at 5600m due to illness
campsites: BC(13/09,4700m),ABC(15/09,5600m),xxx(15/09,5600m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Gibbens got chest infection while in ABC. He left ABC on Sept 22. Arrived KTM on 23rd and left Nepal on Sept 24.


expid: CHOY04318
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Australia
leaders: John Cook
sponsor: The 17-year climb John Cook Expedition Cho Oyu 2004
bcdate: 2004-09-08
smtdate: 2004-09-26
smttime: 0430
termdate: 2004-09-29
campsites: BC(08/09),ABC(09/09,5700m),C1(19/09,6400m),C2(25/09,7200m),Smt(26/09)
accidents: Cook's cerebral edema
agency: Himalayan Explorers
routememo:
  21 Sept Cook to 7100m and return C1, tired; 22 to ABC. 22nd Cook now having period breathing problems so consulted Jorge Egocheaga, the Spanish doctor, who gave him drugs which took a course of 4 days. 25th Cook decided no more climbing and stayed in ABC and asked Sherpas to carry to top and nail clippings of his father. 25th Sherpas ABC to C2 and 26th on top; left C2 midnight NST and on top at top at 4:30 am, waited half four for daylight and saw Everest, down to ABC at 3:00 pm, clearing camps on the way down. 25th Cook unsteady on foot; on 26th went with oxygen and into convulsions and became unconscious evening 26th. 6:00 am Lhakpa realized he wasn't waking up and Egocheaga called to Cook's tent, gave more drugs. 8:00 am 2 yaks, 5 porters and French climber and 2 Sherpas evacuated him, but later 2 Spanish doctors came and gave injection, got to Jeep 5:30 pm and 1:00 am to Zangmu; crossed border but now Maoist general strike; now Cook conscious and found Australian embassy's telephone number and called KTM and helicopter within one hour picked him up brought to KTM to CIWEC clinic.

  Oxygen:

  Sherpas none.

  Cook: from C1 to 7100m 21 Sept; 26th Sept from ABC to Zangmu on oxygen constantly, then supply running low so from Zangmu to KTM only intermittently and even to 4th Oct in KTM. In KTM 4 Oct using stick to keep his balance.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Lhakpa Dorje, 1960, Sanam, Everest X1, Makalu X3, Lhotse X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Chongba Nurbu, 1962, Tate, Chaurikharka, Everest X3


expid: CHOY04319
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Gregoire Sauget
sponsor: Cho Oyu Expedition 2004
approach: Kodari->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2004-09-08
smtdate: 2004-09-20
termdate: 2004-09-21
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to exhaustion
campsites: BC(08/09,5000m),ABC(12-13/09,5700m),C1(16/09,6400m),xxx(20/09,7400m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC  at CBC
  C1  at usual campsite
  Highpoint at C3 site.

  Sauget reached ABC on Sept 12, Girard on 13th. Girard alone set up C1 on 16th. Descended to ABC on 18th morning of 19th around 10 am (NST) reached C1. Continued ascending and reached C3 site about 4 or 5 am of 20th. Girard had to give up climbing due to tiredness. Descended to ABC same day - spent the night at ABC, Sauget waiting for him. Next day to border and arrived KTM on 22. Both are leaving on 23rd. Highest point for Sauget was 6000m with no climbing attitude. During Girard's climbing, weather condition was good.

  Sauget's highest point was 6000m, got diarrhea and then was weak from sickness and had no motivation to go higher.


expid: CHOY04320
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Kiyomitsu Shikoda
sponsor: Japan Expedition Cho Oyu 2004
bcdate: 2004-09-10
smtdate: 2004-09-27
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2004-09-30
campsites: BC(10/09),ABC(14/09,5700m),C1(19/09,6400m),C2(25/09,6900m),C3(26/09,7700m),Smt(27/09)
agency: Rolwaling Trek
routememo:
  Summit party left C3 3:00 am NST and at top 8:00 am by all 7 members and all Sherpas except Nima Nurbu and back to C2 at 1:10 pm to sleep. Very clear on top and no wind. Ngima Sherpa was also in summit party but turned back at 8100m with bad headache.

  Oxygen: 6 members in C2 to top to and in C2, Shikoda from 8100m to top.


expid: CHOY04321
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Norway
leaders: Pal Storseth
sponsor: Norwegian Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Kodari->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2004-09-08
smtdate: 2004-09-12
termdate: 2004-09-16
termnote: Did not climb due to illness and lack of strength
campsites: BC(09/08,4700m),ABC(09/12,5700m),xxx(09/12,5700m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC  at CBC/IC on 11th at 5300m
  ABC at usual campsite.

  Storseth lost appetite, could not sleep, could not walk. He was carried down to CBC and sent to KTM on Sept 16. He left Nepal on 18th. It is suspected that he is a diabetic.


expid: CHOY04322
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Singapore
leaders: Robert Goh
sponsor: Singapore Cho Oyu 2004 without oxygen
bcdate: 2004-08-24
smtdate: 2004-09-21
smttime: 1015
termdate: 2004-10-04
campsites: BC(24/08),ABC(28/08,5700m),C1(01/09,6500m),C2(07/09,7200m),C3(09/09,7500m),Smt(21,27,30/09)
accidents: Lim briefly snowblind in early Sept and Goh bad cough (down to Nyalam)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  From ABC to C3 this team climbed on their own but higher up had Sherpas with them. Lim left C3 to top on 21st Sept at 2:30 am NST with Mingma Chhiring Sherpa and on top 10:15 am, saw Everest very briefly in windy cloudy day; on top with David Morton's team; down to C1 to sleep. Lim used oxygen night of 20th in C3 and to top to C1 to finish it but Mingma used none. 

  Goh from C3 27th Sept 1:30 am from top with Kami Tshering Sherpa, on top at 7:15 am, saw Everest in clear day, down to ABC 3:00 pm. Goh and Kami used no oxygen at all. 

  Lim left C3 for another summit bid 30 Sept 1:30 am with Dorje, on top 10:30 am in beautiful weather and down to ABC to sleep at 7:00 pm. Both Lim and Dorje used no oxygen on this ascent. Lim used oxygen first ascent because had not been on 8000m summit before and not sure how he would make out; also acclimatized more slowly than Goh.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Kami Tshering (Ang Tshering), Pangboche, 1962, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X3
    Mingma Tshering, Phortse, 26/4/72, Everest X3
    Dorje Lama, Bhakanje, 9/4/76, Everest X2


expid: CHOY04323
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Norway
leaders: Harald Kippenes
sponsor: Norwegian Cho Oyu Xixabangma Expedition 2004
bcdate: 2004-09-11
smtdate: 2004-10-02
smttime: 1045
termdate: 2004-10-13
othersmts: Had permit for Xixabangma but LO said couldn't go because weather bad
campsites: BC(11/09),ABC(13/09,5700m),C1(20/09,6400m),C2(24/09,7100m),Smt(02/10)
accidents: Kippenes cerebral thrombosis
agency: Fusion/Asian Trekking
routememo:
  From C2 all down to ABC afterwards. 30th, all (except Sundby) up for summit bid but Kippenes who turned back halfway to C1 to ABC when stomach trouble set in. Eide and Hope in C1, C2 1 Oct and left C2 for top at 2nd about 2:00 am (Chinese time) and both on top 1:00 pm (10:45 NST), saw Everest in perfect weather by Eide and Hope; Thorsrud turned back at 8000m with bad cough. All 3 slept in C2 and down to ABC 3 Oct.

  Kippenes on 30th down from summit bid team to ABC and on 1st to BC initially because of stomach problem when got very severe headache and vomiting so to Zangmu on 2 Oct, KTM 6th only waiting in Zangmu 4 days; hoping to return to mountain, but not better so to KTM instead.

  Sundby didn't acclimatize well and never went above C1.


expid: CHOY04324
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Sweden
leaders: Tomas Olsson
sponsor: Cho Oyu Skiing Expedition
countries: Norway
approach: Kodari->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2004-09-08
smtdate: 2004-09-30
smttime: 0545
campsites: BC(08/09,4700m),ABC(12/09,5700m),C1(21/09,6400m),Smt(30/09,02/10)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Sept 29 Granheim left C1 at 19:00 hours (Chinese time) reached summit at 08:00 hours (5:45 NST) of Sept 30. Stayed on summit about half an hour. Skied down up to C1, then walked down to ABC where he arrived at 19:00 hours. He had rest at C2. Before him was one person who passed him on summit plateau. After him about 15 other people summited on that day. Weather was quite clear. In Nepal side there was thunder storm. He saw lightning but could not hear thunder. He got clear view of Everest and other mountains. He did ski without rope and without taking of ski. 

  Oct 02 Olsson left C2 (belongs to other expedition) at 04:30 hours (Chinese Time), reached summit at 14:00 hours (11:45 NST). Stayed there about half an hour; skied down to C1 where he reached at 17:00 hours. He to had rest in between. Arrived ABC at 21:00 hours. Before him on summit were two Norwegians of Ultimate Ascent. Weather was clear and had good view of Everest it was very cold. At the beginning Olsson stayed additional nights in Tingri and got to CBC on Sept 11/IC on 19th and ABC on 20th. He delayed going up as he had minor chest pain. 

  Tufvesson: Returned to KTM on Sept 30 and left Nepal on Oct 2 due to chest infections; his highest point was 6500m.

  Frick: Returned to KTM on Oct 5 and will leave on 7th. He got headache when he got at 6900m on Sept 28. He could not acclimatized easily.

  Olsson and Granheim plans to go for Everest in 2006. Both Olsson and Grandheim wanted to go to Sishapangma btu Chinese Authority refused for their permit saying that the weather condition there is not good.


expid: CHOY04325
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Belgium
leaders: Marjolein De Bruycker
sponsor: Golden Jubilee Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2004-09-13
smtdate: 2004-09-28
smttime: 1014
termdate: 2004-10-07
campsites: BC(13/09,4700m),ABC(15/09,5600m),C1(20/09,6400m),Smt(28/09)
achievment: Probably youngest Belgian
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at CBC
  ABC at usual camp site
  C1  at usual camp site.

  Left C2 at 22:00 hours NST on 27th. Summited at 10:14 hours on 28th. Stayed on summit about half an hour. Reached C2 at about 14:00 hours. Next day ABC. Very good, no clouds, no wind and clear. She had a very good view of Everest.

  Praschl-Bichler and cook were ahead of she and also 2 Germans and four or five other people. She arrived KTM  on Oct 8. She will leave Nepal on Dec 30. De Bruycker will go for trekking on Oct 21 with her friends from Belgium.

  Dorje Sherpa, Thamo, 2043-6-15
    Everest Summit: 2000,2001,2004, Makalu 2000, Cho Oyu 2003, Ama Dablam 2001, 
    aka "Big Dorje"


expid: CHOY04326
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Austria
leaders: Rudolf Praschl-Bichler
sponsor: Golden Jubilee Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2004-09-10
smtdate: 2004-09-28
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2004-09-30
campsites: BC(10/09,4700m),ABC(12/09,5300m),C1(15/09,6100m),C2(18/09,7100m),C3(27/09,7400m),Smt(28/09)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at CBC
  ABC at usual campsite
  C1  at usual campsite
  C2  at usual campsite
  C3  at usual campsite.

  On 28th Sept left C3 at 03:30 hours NST, reached summit at 10:00 hours, stayed on summit about 40 minutes descended to C1 where he reached at 17:00 hours. The weather was cold but no wind and not much cloud - it was sunny. He saw view of Everest. Behind him were Miss De Bruycker and Trey Cook. He said that may be five other people were on summit. Praschl-Bichler accompanied Mrs. Coelho to KTM as she got frostbitten fingers. He will leave on Oct 5 evening.


expid: CHOY04327
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Di Gilbert
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Cho Oyu Expedition 2004
bcdate: 2004-08-30
smtdate: 2004-09-21
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2004-09-25
campsites: BC(30/08),ABC(02/09,5400m),C1(07/09,6400m),C2(13/09,7000m),C3(20/09,7400m),Smt(21/09)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Left C3 2:00 NST: Gilbert, Crowsley, Mingma Nuru and Phurba, on top 10:30 pm (Gilbert and Mingma Nuru) and 11:00 (other 2). Had glimpses of Khumbu; was with Dave Morton who had brief glimpses of Everest and Lhotse. Took "well over the hour" to move in knee-deep snow to summit. Crowsley to C3 to sleep at 2:30 pm and Gilbert and 2 Sherpas to C2 at 4:00 pm. 

  Hubbard and Major turned back on way up to C3 on 20th, Hubbard's feet cold and Major too tired. Muggleton to C1 site and down to stay (not fit and not acclimatizing).

  Oxygen: 
    Crowsley and 2 Sherpas used none 
    Gilbert on 21st from 7600m to top and down to 8000m, below summit plateau

  Sherpa summiters:
    Mingma Nuru, 22/4/69, Pangboche, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1, Lhotse X1
    Pburba Ridar Bhote, Makalu VDC, Everest X1


expid: CHOY04328
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Rainer Pircher
sponsor: Amical Alpin Cho Oyu Expedition 2004
approach: Normal
bcdate: 2004-09-03
smtdate: 2004-09-24
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2004-09-29
campsites: BC(03/09,4900m),ABC(06/09,5650m),C1(09/09,6350m),C2(21-22/09,7035m),C3(23/09,7400m),Smt(24/09)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Chinese BC.

  Thomas Wand and Joerg Nabitz abandoned climb at C1 due to altitude sickness. Waited at BC for other members. Joerg Guenther abandoned climb at C2 due to a cold flu.

  Climbing Sherpa, Nawang Thile turned around at C3 due to cold.

  Expedition summiters saw Everest.


expid: CHOY04329
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Christian Lemmerz
sponsor: Independent team on Cho Oyu
bcdate: 2004-09-08
smtdate: 2004-09-29
smttime: 1015
termdate: 2004-10-05
campsites: BC(08/09),ABC(13/09,5720m),C1(15/09,6400m),C2(20/09,7130m),C3(28/09,7560m),Smt(29/09)
accidents: Only very slight frostnip to Grunert's toes
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Both members left C3 29 Sept 4:00 am Chinese Time; Grunert at 7600m turned around about 4:30 am because toes getting very cold (and are now still numb) and returned to C3 to wait for Lemmerz, who summited 10:15 am, first person on top that day, saw Everest and Nuptse and returned to C3 at 12:00 noon. Both stayed in C3 another night because Grunert hoped toes would be better next day and he could go to top, but they weren't so both members down to ABC on 30th.

  Grunert to return to Cho Oyu at 2005 but trekking agency and permit not known; arranged by Tshering Tamang.


expid: CHOY04330
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Henry Todd
countries: Canada, Belgium, Hungary, USA
bcdate: 2004-09-05
smtdate: 2004-09-18
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2004-09-29
campsites: BC(05/09),ABC(07/09,5700m),C1(11/09,6400m),C2(16/09,7050m),C3(23/09,7300m),Smt(18,25/09)
accidents: Dekeyser suffered cut leg before summiting
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Calder, Dekeyser, Pomeret, Pasang Nuru left C2 at midnight 17/18 NST. Dekeyser turned around at 7800m because wind problem and Calder took her down to ABC to sleep. Pomeret and Pasang Nuru went to top 11:30 am 18th and down to C2; saw Everest, etc, etc.

  Calder, Kennett, Laur, Hembury and Pasang Nuru from C2 on 24th midnight and on top at 10:00 am 25th except Hembury turned back at C3 (too slow) while rest went to top and saw Everest and down to C2 from top to sleep. From C3 for top: Joshi, Dekeyser, Pasang Nuru got to top 9:15 am of 25th and down to C2. Ogwyn who started from "lake camp" at bottom of mountain at about 6000m, at 12:45 pm 24th, passed Todd in C2 at 3:00 pm, up to C3, where he changed into down suit and on to top at 8:30 pm, when he telephoned Todd, took photo of full moon and left bandana which Calder found next morning on top and down to C2 at 11:00 pm with Todd. Klein left C3 early morning of 25th and summited at mid-morning 25th and down to ABC.

  Oxygen: Klein and Ogwyn none; other members who climbed from C2 to top used it from C2 to top and down somewhere below; those who went up from C3 to top from C3 to top to somewhere below. Pasang Nuru none.

  Pasang Nuru none in his first ascent but Todd required him to use it on 2nd ascent to find scientific instruments had left there on 18 Sept (he couldn't find them).

  Sherpa summiters: 
    Pasang Nuru, 23 years old, Pangboche, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X1


expid: CHOY04331
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Ron Holt
sponsor: Jagged Globe Cho Oyu Expedition 2004
countries: Australia, Canada, Denmark
approach: Kodari->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2004-09-05
smtdate: 2004-09-25
smttime: 0715
termdate: 2004-09-05
campsites: BC(05/09,4900m),ABC(08/09,5600m),C1(12/09,6300m),C2(17/09,7000m),C3(24/09,7400m),Smt(25/09)
accidents: Dunjry got stomach problem left ABC on 12th, arrived KTM on 13th, left Nepal on 14th
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at CBC/IC on 7th at 5300m
  ABC at usual campsite
  C1  at usual campsite
  C2  at usual campsite 
  C3  at usual campsite.

  On Sept 25 Cohen, Gudmann, Jakobczyk, Morgan, Thundu and Mingma Tsiri Sherpa left C3 at 02:00 hours (Chinese time). Gudmann reached summit at 09:30 hours, stayed about half an hour on summit, reached C3 at 12:00 hours, rested sometime, reached C2 about 16:00 hours. Jakobczyk reached summit at about 11:00 hours, spent about 5 minutes on summit, returned to C3; Jakobczyk was with Thundu Sherpa on summit. Cohen had to return from 7850m due to tiredness; she returned with Mingma Tsiri Sherpa to C3. Weather was little bit cloudy, no wind, summit was clear and all the summiters got good view of Everest. Other people on summit were three of Henry Todd's and some Americans were coming up.

  About other members: Dunjry got stomach problem and he returned from ABC. Leader Holt went up to C1 on Sept 10, got stomach problem and stayed in ABC for rest of the time. Wells went up to 6600m on 14th - he could not acclimatize.

  Thundu Sherpa (DOB: 1978-02-21)
  Beding, Rolwaling
  He summited Everest in 2003 with Jagged Globe Expedition

  Mingma Tsiri Sherpa (DOB: 2027-4-4)
  Beding, Rolwaling
  He climbed up to 7850m.
  He had summited Everest for 10 times (last one was in 2004 with Discovery Channel, Dhaulagiri: 1993, Ama Dablam 1994, Cho Oyu in 1998 and 2001

  Gudmann will try to come for Everest in the spring of 2005


expid: CHOY04332
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Klaus Tscherrig
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Cho Oyu Expedition 2004
countries: Germany, USA
approach: Normal
bcdate: 2004-09-06
smtdate: 2004-09-25
smttime: 0740
termdate: 2004-09-28
campsites: BC(06/09,4900m),ABC(08/09,5600m),C1(22/09,6400m),C2(23/09,7000m),C3(24/09,7400m),Smt(25/09)
accidents: Josette Valloton has 2nd degree frostbite on all toes except small toes
agency: Iceland Trekking (Dorje)
routememo:
  BC  at CBC/IC on 7th at 5300m
  ABC at usual campsite
  C1  at usual campsite
  C2  at usual campsite
  C3  at usual campsite.

  Summits between 8 am and 1 pm. 

  Josette Valloton left BC on Sept 26 and went to KTM by road to get treatment for her frostbite in hospital. Josette Valloton got her frostbite on the summit day. Apparently it was not extremely cold. Frostbites possibly due to frostnips acquired at Xixabangma this spring.

  Team saw Everest, Lhtose, Kangchenjunga, Ama Dablam and Makalu in the clouds.

  Klaus Tscherrig met Mingma Sherpa from Tengboche on summit.
  Hansruedi Wirth turned around at 7500m due to fatigue.
  Farid Nadimi turned around at 6000m due to illness (virus).

  Sherpa summiters:
    Thilen, 20/11/68, Nurbugaon, Everest X5
    Mitenjen, 30/7/69, Nurbugaon, Xixabangma Spr 2004


expid: CHOY04333
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Eloise Barbieri
sponsor: Eloise Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 2004-10-05
smtdate: 2004-10-11
termdate: 2004-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to high winds
campsites: BC(05/10),ABC(06/10,5800m),xxx(11/10,5900m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  6th very windy high on top. Barbieri was already acclimatized on ascent of Xixabangma, so planned to go for summit in less windy day to top. She was with Spaniard, Xabier Ornazabal, whom she met on Xixabangma climb and at whose suggestion they climb Cho Oyu together which she welcomed on theory two together were better than one alone. They stayed in ABC 6th, 7th, 8th and 9th nights. 10th weather bit better but Barbieri thought still too unstable but Ornazabal decided to go for summit. So 11th she tried to go to C1 with Tirtha Tamang to look for him, but again windy so turned back at 5900m and returned to ABC, learning from French Basques Xabier had arrived in C2. 12th very strong winds in afternoon snowfalling. 13th weather better and waited again in ABC while watched him get to summit plateau and later descended, sat for an hour in this wind. 14th stayed in ABC. Barbieri stayed in ABC while Tamang went to C3 and found Xabier's body. Barbieri did not try climb anymore because of grief over Xabier's death and felt responsible to report to police and returned to KTM soon as possible to inform his family.


expid: CHOY04349
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Emili Duran Visiedo
bcdate: 2004-09-08
smtdate: 2004-09-26
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2004-09-30
campsites: BC(08/09,4700m),ABC(12/09,5600m),C1(18/09,6400m),C2(24/09,7000m),C3(25/09,7600m),Smt(26/09)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Left C3 at about 05:30 hours, summited by 3 members and Sherpa between 11:30 hours (Duran Llobet and Lakcha) to 11:45 hours. Last to reach summit was Benitez Rosado. Stayed on summit about 20 minutes, descended to C3. Next day to ABC. Clear weather, no clouds and no wind. All members saw Everest and other mountains. Also, Duran Visiedo said that they saw prayer flags near the summit. Before them other summiters were 2 Spanish from Balears and Jorge Egocheaga also from Spain. 

  The expedition returned to KTM on Oct 1 and will leave on 0ct 5.


expid: CHOY04335
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Glenn Porzak
sponsor: 2004 American Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 2004-09-09
smtdate: 2004-09-26
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2004-10-02
campsites: BC(09/09),ABC(12/09,5630m),C1(18/09,6400m),C2(21/09,7000m),C3(25/09,7460m),Smt(26,30/09)
accidents: Manning got sick from altitude in C3 on 26th so not to top
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  1st summit party left C3 2:00 am NST 26th Sept, on top at 7:00 am with within a few minutes of each other; saw Everest, Lhotse, Kangchenjunga. Returned to C3 9:30 am and down to C2 1:00 and 2:30 pm to sleep there; to ABC 27th

  2nd party on top 9:00 am, saw Everest, returned to C3 10:30 am, down to C2 at 3:00 pm.

  Oxygen: 
    Kopczynski in C3 to C2
    Coombs from C3 to top to C3
    Porzak from C3 to to top to just above C3 
    Steiger used none
    Sherpas used none

  Sherpa summiters: 
    Lhakpa Dorje, 1956, Phortse, Everst 1983
    Ang Pasang, 21/5/67, Khumjung, Everest X1
    Karchen Dorje, 19/11/65, Khumjung, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1, Lhotse X1,
    Sonam Tashi, 3/12/71, Khumjung, Cho Oyu X3
    Nawang Karsang, 23/7/69, Khumjung, Everest X1


expid: CHOY04336
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: David Morton
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Cho Oyu Expedition 2004
countries: Mexico, S Africa
bcdate: 2004-08-30
smtdate: 2004-09-21
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2004-09-24
campsites: BC(30/08),ABC(02/09,5700m),C1(08/09,6300m),C2(13/09,7100m),C3(20/09,7500m),Smt(21/09)
accidents: Van Marker briefly had blurred vision at C1
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  Left C3 at 4:00 am NST for top and arrived top 10:30 am, together (within 10 minutes); had 3 glimpses of Everest and Lhotse; down to C2 to sleep and arrive 5:00 pm. Most rope fixed by Singaporeans, who were first team to arrive.

  Oxygen: Gonzalez, Lego and Von Marker from C2 all the way to top and somewhere before C2 in descent; Morton and Schuck sleeping in C3 to top to 7500m; Sherpas none at all.

  Sherpa summiters
    Kami Rita, aka Topke, Thami, 17/1/70, Everest X8, Cho Oyu X1 
    Lhakpa/Lakpa Rita, Thami, 9/9/66, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X3, brothers
    Tshering Dorje, Kharikhola, 20/7/70, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X1


expid: CHOY04337
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Canada
leaders: Vincent Waters
sponsor: Cho Oyu Expedition 2004
approach: Kodari->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2004-09-08
smtdate: 2004-09-26
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2004-10-04
campsites: BC(08/09,4800m),ABC(12/09,5800m),C1(16/09,6400m),C2(24/09,7200m),C3(25/09,7500m),Smt(26/09)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC  at CBC/IC - 11th
  ABC at usual camp site.

  On Sept 26 left C3 at 01:00 hours NST, reached summit at 11:00 hours, stayed about 15 minutes. Descended to C3, reached at about 15:00 hours. Ahead of him were 3-4 Spanish. Saw clear view of Everest. Waters returned to KTM on Oct 05. He will go for Ama Dablam on Oct 07.


expid: CHOY04338
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Michael Hamill
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 2004-09-02
smtdate: 2004-09-26
smttime: 0545
termdate: 2004-09-29
campsites: BC(02/09),ABC(06/09,5630m),C1(11/09,6400m),C2(17/09,7000m),C3(25/09,7460m),Smt(26/09)
accidents: Hamill chest infection in C2; Boersma exhausted and left 19 Sept (C1 only)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  Summit team left C3; on top at 6:15 am NST Rice and Dawa Nuru; at 5:45 am, Dailey and Ang Pasang; at 6:24 am Schlimme and with Tashi Tshering and Mingma Tenzing. Rice and Dawa Nuru to ABC at 1:30 pm, Dailey and Pasang Nuru to C2 at 8:30 am, Schlimme and 2 Sherpas C2 9:30 am.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Tashi Tshering, Pangboche, 18/6/70, Everest X10, Cho Oyu X1
    Ang Pasang, Pangboche, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X2
    Dawa Nuru, aka Danura, Phortse, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X4, Manaslu X1
    Mingma Tenzing, Phortse, 1/6/86, 1st 8000er

  Oxygen: 
    Hamill with chest infection from C2 to ABC on 25 Sept
    Summiters: all 3 members in C3, from C3 to top to C2. 
    Dailey and Schlimme in C2 in descent. 
    Rice stopped used at C2's altitude and went on down without it. 
    Sherpas used none at all.


expid: CHOY04339
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Ecuador
leaders: Ivan Vallejo
sponsor: Spanish-Ecuadorian Xixabangma Expedition to Cho Oyu 2004
countries: Spain
bcdate: 2004-09-11
smtdate: 2004-09-27
termdate: 2004-10-02
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to plan to acclimatize on Cho Oyu, not summit it
othersmts: Xixabangma after Cho Oyu
campsites: BC(11/09),ABC(13/09,5700m),C1(17/09,6400m),C2(27/09,7200m),xxx(27/09,7200m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Purpose of climb was to acclimatize for Xixabangma because Vallejo knew normal route on Cho Oyu and impossible to do so on SW Face. Stayed in C2 only one night. 29th down to BC and Tingri. 

  Oct 2 left Nyalam to Xixa and alpine-style ascent from BC at 5200m and ABC at bottom of face at 5500m. Arrived at ABC Oct 5 but started and summit push only on 8 Oct. Scaled face/couloir and on top 10 Oct. Took only rucksacks in push; pretty windy and cold; waited till 4:00 am.


expid: CHOY04340
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Marty Schmidt
sponsor: Marty Schmidt International Guiding 2004 Cho Oyu Expedition
countries: USA
bcdate: 2004-09-05
smtdate: 2004-09-24
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2004-09-29
campsites: BC(05/09),ABC(07/09,5400m),C1(09/09,6400m),C2(15/09,7000m),C3(18/09,7400m),Smt(24,27/09)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  All 3 members at 1:30 am 24 Sept NST left for top, on top 9:30 am and down to C2. Shuman turned back at 7500 due to slight altitude problem. Arrived C2 3:00 pm 24th. 25th to ABC. 

  Shuman tried to summit with Schmidt on 26 Sept. Shuman back from 6700m tired and Schmidt to top at 4:35 am of 27th. Climbed through the night of 26/27, then waited for daylight and search for scientific box on top (saw Everest); started down on skis from summit on "terrible snow," didn't take off skis, jumped rockband; started from top 8:45 am and at C1 at 11:45 am 27th. Down to ABC to sleep on 27th.


expid: CHOY04341
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Brazil
leaders: Helena Coelho
sponsor: Golden Jubilee Cho Oyu 2004
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2004-09-13
smtdate: 2004-09-29
termdate: 2004-10-01
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to frostbitten fingers
campsites: BC(13/09,4700m),ABC(15/09,5600m),C1(20/09,6300m),C2(24/09,7100m),C3(27/09,7300m),xxx(29/09,8100m)
accidents: Frostbitten fingers
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at CBC
  ABC at usual campsite
  C1  at usual campsite
  C2  at usual campsite
  C3  at usual campsite.

  Sept 29 left C3 at 06:30 hours NST, reached about 8100m around midday. Sat for a rest and went asleep for almost an hour. When woke up she realized that the fingers on both hands swollen. Then she descended to C3 where she reached about 4-4:30 pm. During the night her fingers got worse. In the morning she could not open her tent door by herself. Whenever she heard somebody passing her tent she started asking for help in high voice but nobody bothered her (probably 4/5 people). Around 07:00 or 08:00 hours, somebody called James [McGuinness] from New Zealand, opened her tent from outside and helped to dismantle her tent and also carried down the tent to C2. When Coelho reached serac, the sirdar of her group met her and he carried down her tent to ABC.

  She said on the summit bid day one German and Tra summited the Cho Oyu. Coelho returned to KTM on Oct 2. She had medication in Nepal International Clinic. She is waiting her luggage to come. Probably she will be leaving on Oct 12 or 13.

  Frostbitten fingers:
  Left hand: Three middle fingers - index finger and middle one are very bad.
  Right hand: All four fingers except thumb. Among the four: ring finger, middle and last finger are very bad.


expid: CHOY04342
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Kenneth Hill
sponsor: Golden Jubilee Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 2004-09-13
smtdate: 2004-10-01
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2004-10-07
campsites: BC(13/09,4700m),ABC(15/09,5600m),C1(19/09,6400m),C2(21/09,7100m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Left C2 at 0230 hours of Oct 01, reached summit at 12:30 hours, spent about 10 minutes. To C2 around 17:30 hours. Weather was cloudy in south and east side of mountain. When he reached summit it was sunny. On his way down it was snowing in C2. When he reached on plateau two big men coming down; before him others was an Australian. Nobody after him on summit. He could not see Everest due to clouds. He saw prayer flags near summit and a rod on summit.

  He returned to KTM on Oct 08. Will leave on Oct 20. He plans to go for Everest north side in Spring 2005.


expid: CHOY04343
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Trey Cook
sponsor: Lowfat Spam Cho Oyu Expedition 2004
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2004-09-13
smtdate: 2004-09-28
smttime: 0945
termdate: 2004-10-07
campsites: BC(13/09,4700m),ABC(15/09,5600m),C1(21/09,6400m),C2(23/09,7100m),Smt(28/09)
accidents: Schipper got diarrhea
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at CBC
  ABC at usual campsite
  C1  at usual campsite
  C2  at usual campsite.

  Cook left C2 at 22:00 hours NST on 27th, summited at 09:45 hours on 28th, stayed about half an hour, to C2 around 14:00 hours. Very good weather and good view of Everest. Ahead of him were 5 or 6 people from Arun Trek; De Bruycker and Sherpa were after him. 

  Cook returned to KTM on Oct 08. Will leave Nepal on Oct 18th. He is going for six days rafting in Sun Koshi. 

  Other member Schipper got diahrrea and left ABC on Sept 24. Probably he left country on 26th. He went up to C1 on 21st.


expid: CHOY04344
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Michael O'Donnell
sponsor: Mountain Madness Cho Oyu Expedition 2004
countries: Canada, UK
bcdate: 2004-08-29
smtdate: 2004-09-24
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2004-09-26
campsites: BC(29/08),ABC(01/09,5550m),C1(07/09,6100m),C2(14/09,7100m),C3(23/09,7400m),Smt(24/09)
agency: Mountain Madness
routememo:
  Summit party left C3 4:00 24 Sept, on top about 12:00 noon in very clear weather and saw Everest and down to C2 at 7:30 pm.

  Skidmore left expedition 16 Sept (not acclimatizing); got to just below C2.

  Taylor also left 16 Sept; had very bad cough and maybe cracked some ribs when coughing.

  Smith's arm swelled and hurt from blood clotting in her shoulder; had reached C2.

  Oxygen: By O'Donnell only (from C3 to top to C3).


expid: CHOY04303
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Gary Guller
sponsor: International Good Friends Cho Oyu Expedition
countries: France, Germany, Switzerland
bcdate: 2004-09-08
smtdate: 2004-09-28
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2004-10-04
campsites: BC(08/09),ABC(11/09,5700m),C1(16/09,6400m),C2(21/09,6900m),C3(27/09,7400m),Smt(28/09)
achievment: 1st one armed climber to top
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Summit party, Finkel and Woodbeck left C3 at 2:00 am NST and on top 9:00 am except Finkel who turned back at 7500m with boy friend Woodbeck whose feet got cold and down to C1; saw Everest and Lhotse in "beautiful" conditions, no wind, blue sky; returned to C3 to sleep at 2:30 pm; 29th to ABC.

  Gerard left 26th Sept (tired).
  Sellier left 24th Sept (homesick).

  Sherpa summiters:
    Namgyal, Lelep, Everest X2
    Lhakpa Rangdu, 18/1/67, Sotang, 1st 8000er


expid: CHOY04305
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Ryan Waters
sponsor: SummitClimb Cho Oyu Expedition 2004
countries: Canada, Belgium, France, Netherlands, UK
bcdate: 2004-09-11
smtdate: 2004-09-30
smttime: 0815
termdate: 2004-10-05
campsites: BC(11/09),ABC(13/09,5700m),C1(15/09,6300m),C2(25/09,7000m),C3(29/09,7500m),Smt(30/09,01/10)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  1st summit party of Blake, Burgess, Coster, Oliver, Wells, [Tindale] and Miss Maya Sherpa and Tibetans Guan Do (Thendup) and Ngawang left C3 on 30th Sept 4:30 Chinese time and on top 10:30 am (08:15 NST) to 2:00 pm; saw Makalu; returned all except Maya Coster and Burgess to C2 at about 6:30 pm while these 3 slept in C3 at 8:00 pm.

  2nd Party of De Bare, Letrange, Waters and Tibetan Pasang (from Nyalam) left C3 for top on 1 Oct 4:00 am Chinese Time, on top 11:00 am - 12:30 pm except Pasang at 9:30 am; saw Everest, Waters and De Bare down to C3 and Letrange to C2 at about 6:00 pm. 

  Oxygen: None used by Coster, Wells, De Bare, Letrange, Waters, Maya Sherpa and the 3 Tibetans; Oliver and Blake from C3 to top to C3; Burgess in C3 on descent because beginning to get altitude sickness; Cuif during night of 30th Sept, intending to go to top on 1 Oct but did not go up from C3.


expid: CHOY04347
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Carlos Pauner
sponsor: International Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 2004-09-16
smtdate: 2004-09-28
smttime: 1140
termdate: 2004-10-01
campsites: BC(16/09),ABC(18/09,5700m),C1(22/09,6400m),C2(23/09,7100m),Smt(28/09)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  From C2 went down to rest and returned to C2 27 Sept and to top 28th Sept. Left C2 3:00 am NST and on top 11:40 am (Ochoa on top and Gary Guller coming down) and saw Everest, etc., with prayer flags; down to C2 3:00 pm.


expid: CHOY04334
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Xabier Ormazabal
sponsor: Independent climber on Cho Oyu
approach: From Xixa base camp
bcdate: 2004-10-05
smtdate: 2004-10-13
termnote: Abandoned at 7750m due to death of Ormazabal
othersmts: Climbed Xixabangma first
campsites: BC(05/10),ABC(06/10,5800m),C1(10/10,6100m),C2(11/10,7000m),xxx(13/10,8100m)
accidents: Ormazabal's death from exhaustion and fatal fall
agency: Thamserku Trekking?
routememo:
  C1 at 6100m in French Basques's tent
  C2 at 7000m in tent of Ochoa's expedition.

  12th tried to summit, was seen by Barbieri through binoculars to reach summit plateau, was out of sight for 1-1/2 hours and again visible at 1:00 pm (NST). Had left C2 during night with inadequate headlamp; was very casual, had philosophy of no problem through out climb, but had gotten lost on Xixa, where Barbieri met him, and really was suicidal. By 3:00 pm was at 7800m and there sat there for 1 hour; 4:00 pm started descent few meters at a time, intermittently falling over; 5:30 pm darkness coming and saw him at top of fixed rope above C2 (at 7600m). On 14th snowfall made it impossible to see him. 15th saw no movement, so Tirtha Tamang left ABC to search for him;. 16th found his body below C2 tents and to their side and saw tracks of his having slid down from end of fixed rope that was not secured at bottom end of rope at 7400m. Tamang back to ABC 16th. French Basques met him as their descended from C2; they told him wind too strong and he should go down but he went up anyway, knowing he was now alone in C2 and above and in such bad weather that no rescuer could reach him.

  His body found by Tirtha Tamang at about 7550m; was last seen alive at yellow band about 7700m in 13th evening in descent.

  Barbieri is "90% sure" he reached summit.

  [Ed. note] Ormazabal's body was recovered and returned to Spain for burial in Urretxa, Guipuzcoa, Spain.


expid: CHOY04350
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Novella Ispizua, Oscar Txabaris
sponsor: Spanish Cho Oyu 2004
bcdate: 2004-09-12
smtdate: 2004-09-23
termdate: 2004-10-01
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to no motivation
campsites: BC(12/09),ABC(15/09,5700m),C1(18/09,6400m),C2(23/09,7100m),xxx(23/09,7100m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Both got to C2 on 23rd but decided mountain was too big for them, so 24th descended. Their health Ok, but pyschologically not ready to continue climb. They were in perfect physical condition and weather fine. 24th down to ABC went again to C1 clear camp and back to ABC.


expid: CHOY04348
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Inaki Ochoa
sponsor: Spanish Mountain Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 2004-09-06
smtdate: 2004-09-26
smttime: 0935
termdate: 2004-10-03
campsites: BC(06/09),ABC(10/09,5722m),C1(15/09,6416m),C2(16/09,7120m),C3(17/09,7550m),Smt(26,28/09,01/10)
achievment: Ochoa speed climb
agency: Sea to Summit Trekking
routememo:
  1st summit party left C2 at midnight of 25/26th and on top at 9:35-40 am, saw Everest returned to C1 5:00 pm. 

  Ochoa from ABC at midnight of 27/28th and on top after 11:16 am, saw Everest was alone on top but Pauner joined him in this speed climb which other expeditions knew he would attempt and as he approached them, climbers got to each side of track to let him pass quickly. Returned to C1 to sleep.

  1st Oct summiter Fernandez left for top from C3 at 2:50 am and on top 9:15, saw Everest and returned to C2 at 3:00 pm to sleep.


expid: CHOY04345
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Jesus Calleja
sponsor: Spanish Cho Oyu Expedition 2004
bcdate: 2004-09-06
smtdate: 2004-09-25
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2004-09-29
campsites: BC(06/09),ABC(09/09,5700m),C1(12/09,6400m),C2(15/09,7100m),C3(24/09,7500m),Smt(25/09)
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Parajuli)
routememo:
  Left C3 25 Sept 3:00 am Chinese Time. Sala at 3:25 turned back with Sherpa Lama Kancha (brother of Serap Jangbu) very soon; Sala reached C1 to sleep at 2:30 pm, while Lama Kancha accompanied him to C3, then went up to summit. Arencibia reached 8100m, back to C2 at 7:00 pm with altitude sickness. Calleja and Sherap got to top at 8:00 am and Lama Kancha on top at 8:45 am and back to ABC about 4:00 pm.

  Sherpa summiters
    Lama Kancha, Khumjung, 17/1/74, 1st 8000er
    Serap Jangbu, Khumjung, 25/9/69, Kangch X1, K2 X2, Lhotse X2, Cho Oyu X1,
      Everest X1


expid: CHOY04346
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Juan Olivieri, Bartolome Calafat
sponsor: Mallorca on top to Cho Oyu
bcdate: 2004-09-09
smtdate: 2004-09-26
smttime: 0915
termdate: 2004-10-01
campsites: BC(09/09),ABC(12/09,5700m),C1(16/09,6400m),C2(19/09,7000m),C3(25/09,7500m),Smt(26/09)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Left C3 at 4:30 am Chinese time and top at 11:30 am (09:15 NST), saw Everest, and down to C2 at 3:00 pm. 27th to ABC.


expid: EVER04301
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Werner de Jong
sponsor: Dutch Chomolungma Expedition
bcdate: 2004-08-25
smtdate: 2004-09-17
termdate: 2004-09-24
termnote: Abandoned at 7550m due to Sherpa's refusal to continue and lack of rope
campsites: BC(25/08),ABC(01/09,6400m),C1(14/09,7000m),C2(17/09,7550m),xxx(17/09)
accidents: Streefkerk's lung problem
agency: Iceland Trekking/Asian Trekking
routememo:
  A lot of snow on mountain and dangerous avalanches. Needed to replace ropes and didn't bring enough rope. When truck got to BC had only 3000m of rope but a trekking agent said over 4000m there; then yak men apparently stole 1200m rope, down jacket and 1 oxygen bottle. 

  One Sherpa almost killed by avalanche: Lhakpa (sirdar) was hit by some snow from avalanche caused by Sherpas above him pulling out old rope, about 7 Sept. Only one member and no Sherpas slept in C2. Sherpas refused to go higher because snow too deep and avalanche too dangerous; all had summited Everest but never in autumn and said mountain never summited in autumn. Trekking agent suggested yesterday they wanted more money. Kikstra slept alone at C2 after Sherpas pitched camp but refused to sleep there; said they would go to C1 to sleep and come up to C2 on 18th and go up to pitch C3 at 7700m or higher but instead descended to ABC because were too tired, they claimed. On 19th they went very fast to clear C2 and C1. 

  De Jong, Kikstra and Arens only members to C1. 2 members never went above ABC: Streefkerk got lung problem at ABC and left expedition 15 Sept. Thyssen also left 15 Sept because the mountain was too much for him.

  Sherpas were: 
    Sirdar Lhakpa Sherpa, Okhaldhunga, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Nima Dorje, aka Bhoka Lama, Makalu, Everest X3
    Pemba


expid: GAUG04202
peakid: GAUG
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Edmund Wirbel
sponsor: Austrian Gaugiri 2004
ascent1: 3rd
approach: Jomsom->Chhamsung->Ghami->Chharang
bcdate: 2004-08-25
smtdate: 2004-08-27
termdate: 2004-08-28
campsites: BC(25/08,5300m),Smt(27/08)
achievment: 1st Austrian and youngest to top
agency: Blue Sky Treks
routememo:
  BC west of Damodar Kunda.

  26th Aug rested at BC because porters did not reach BC on 25th with still tents, all but 1 sleeping bag. 27th left BC at 4:35 am, Anna and Edmund Wirbel, Mihatsch, Guna Bahadur Tamang and Oisail Tamang to top 10:15 am via SW Ridge, same as US in spring 02 and returned BC at 12:40 pm. Route not technically difficult and not much snow on ridge.


expid: PURK04201
peakid: PURK
year: 2004
route1: W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yuichiro Ishihara
sponsor: Tokyo Workers Alpine Federation
ascent1: 1st
bcdate: 2004-08-07
smtdate: 2004-08-16
smttime: 1445
termdate: 2004-08-18
campsites: BC(07/08,5175m),C1(15/08,5450m),Smt(16/08)
agency: Sherpa Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC north of Thorung Phedi
  C1 on West Ridge.

  Arrived Nepal 25 Jul, left KTM 26 July to Pokhara by bus, Pokhara to Jomsom by air then to Muktinath Thorong Pheriche. BC to C1 easy but from C1 to top many crevasses and icefold. 100m high ice climb of 65-degree wall at 5700m height. 3 members had headaches in C1 and down to BC from there while others to top, starting from C1 at 3:40 am and on top 14:45 hours and slept in C1 which reached 20:00 hours. Returned to KTM by helicopter from Honde in Manang.


expid: EVER04302
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Sergei Bershov
sponsor: Everest North Face Autumn 2004 Expedition
bcdate: 2004-09-03
smtdate: 2004-10-07
termdate: 2004-10-10
termnote: Abandoned at 8500m due to deep snow and inability to continue making route
campsites: BC(03/09),ABC(09/09,6400m),C1(26/09,7000m),C1(28/09,7700m),C3(06/10,8000m),xxx(07/10,8500m)
accidents: Shalygin throat infection
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  High point at bottom of Second Step.

  30th Sept down to ABC, very hard climb and discuss what to do. 4th Oct to C1, 5th to C2, 6th to C2, 7th started up from C3 at 7:00 pm (Chinese time); reached 11:30 am bottom of Second Step. Here deep snow burying all old ropes, very windy, had to make own route and had no rope with them, so turned around to C2 8:00-9:00 pm. 9th ABC. 10th BC and on to border.

  Oxygen: 
    Shalygin from 7300m up, in C2, to Second Step and down to C2.
    Bershov from 7700m to and in C3 to Second Step and down to 8000m.


expid: PUMO04301
peakid: PUMO
year: 2004
route1: SE Face-S Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Tim Rippel
sponsor: Peak Freaks Pumori Expedition 2004
countries: Australia, New Zealand, USA
bcdate: 2004-10-21
smtdate: 2004-11-02
termdate: 2004-11-04
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to lack of manpower
campsites: BC(21,23/10,5300m),ABC(25/10,5700m),C1(31/10,6100m),xxx(02/11,6200m)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  BC above Gorak Shep, between big and little lake NE of Kalapattar
  C1 at SE Face below high glacier
  C2 just below col on South Ridge
  High point at South Ridge.

  1 Nov Sheen and Rippel left C1 to establish route to C2, fixed rope 400m to 6300m all the way, left gear there and returned to C1 to sleep. 2 Nov they went to high point to bring down gear and rope. Abandoned climb because only 2 strong climbers, summit push from C1 extremely long day and dangerous and no supporting climbers; furthermore getting down to -25 degrees at night and wind. Slept in BC night of 2nd, where all others were and wanted to leave.

  Garvin never reached BC; got chest infection on approach march.
  Lambarson left 2nd Nov, had not acclimatized, but now climbing over.
  Rollert went to ABC only, had bad headache, stayed until team left BC.
  Woodward - mountain was too much for him, went just above ABC and left 28th Oct.


expid: PUMO04302
peakid: PUMO
year: 2004
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Dave Kenyon
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Pumori Expedition 2004
ascent1: 146
countries: Norway
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Dingboche
bcdate: 2004-10-13
smtdate: 2004-10-24
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2004-10-26
campsites: BC(10/13,5300m),C1(10/15,5800m),C2(10/23,6500m),Smt(10/24)
accidents: Clarke got minor frostbite right foot toe, right hand, middle and ring finger and thumb
achievment: Two Norwegians probably the first ones to summit Pumori from Norway
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC at usual camp site
  C1 at usual camp site
  C2 at usual camp site.

  On 24: six members and Mingma left C2 at 03:30 hours. At 6900m Clarke, Donohue, Huskins and Kenyon turned back. Havgvaldstad, Njaa and Mingma continued and summited at 10:30 hours. Stayed on summit about 15 minutes - Back to C2 at 13:00 hours. Next day to BC. Summit day was clear, little windy but cold. Mingma Nuru descended to BC. 

  The members who turned back from 6900m were: Clarke due to frostbite; Donohue felt cold and no more energy; for Huskins it was just enough; and leader Kenyon accompanied them to BC. Clarke was evacuated from Pheriche by helicopter. 

  Leader Kenyon returned to KTM on 31st. Four member arrived KTM on 30th. While descending Kenyon met Serbian expedition below C2 - they were ascending. When Kenyon team left BC, Swiss Austrian Expedition was in BC to try for summit. Three Italian team also returned same day of Kenyon team to KTM.

  Sherpas:
    Mingma Nuru Sherpa: (22/4/69) summited Everest 3 times, Lhotse one 
    time, Pumori one time, Cho Oyu two times and Ama Dablam one time. He
    is from Pangboche.

    Mingma Tenzi Sherpa (21-10-1967) from Khumjung. He climbed up to C3.

  Huskins will be going to Ama Dablam with Jagged Globe in Nov 04.
  The rest of the members will leave KTM Nov 03.


expid: PUMO04303
peakid: PUMO
year: 2004
route1: S Face-SW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Owen Davis
sponsor: Australian Pumori Expedition
approach: Lukla->Pheriche->Dughla->Lobuje East
termnote: Climb not attempted due to fatal accident enroute to BC
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East (Oct 28)
accidents: Fatal accident enroute to BC
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
routememo:
  Team never went to BC, never climbed Pumori.

  Team climbed Lobuche East on 28th October. They rested in Dughla on 29th. On 30th Oct Davis, Smailes and Whiteway went to have a look at Cholatse and scrambled up a buttress leading up to NW Ridge at about 5000m. Whiteway and Davis returned to Dughla at about 12:30 whilst Smailes stayed on buttress. At 2 pm the two decided to look for Smailes and found him about 50m below buttress at 2:30. They carried him down on stretcher. Called helicopter from satellite phone but landing impossible due to fog. He died at around 5 pm. He had major injuries to all his head. Team pitched tent to leave body just below Dughla at 4600m. They went to Dughla to spend night.


expid: PUMO04304
peakid: PUMO
year: 2004
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: Serbia
leaders: Ilija Andrejic
sponsor: Pumori Serbia 2004
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pheriche->Lobuje
bcdate: 2004-10-22
smtdate: 2004-10-26
termdate: 2004-10-28
termnote: Abandoned at 7060m due to exhaustion and bad weather conditions
campsites: BC(22/10,5300m),C1(23/10,5700m),C2(26/10,6200m),C3(24/10,6700m),xxx(26/10,7060m)
accidents: Andrejic suffered from diarrhea, legs muscle pain, chest pain due to very cold weather
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at usual campsite
  C1 at usual campsite on SE Face
  C2 on SE Face (on descent)
  C3 on SE Face.

  Andrejic, Petric and Lhakpa left C3 on 26th at 04:00 hours. When they reached at 7060m at about 11:30 hours, visibility was very poor, cloudy, windy and snow and was very cold. Lhakpa told both climbers to turn back as it was not possible for them to continue due to bad weather conditions. Descent was very slow. They had to sleep in C2, which while ascending they avoided due to possible risk of avalanche. The team arrived in C2 site about 19:30 hours. Still the visibility was very poor. Next day weather remained bad. Then went down to BC. 

  The team arrived to Lobuche on 28th. On 29th Andrejic and supporting staff Miroslav flown in helicopter to KTM. Petric will arrive KTM on Oct 3. The team will leave KTM on Nov 02.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Tshering/Chhiring Sherpa, Khumjung, Everest X3, Ama Dablam


expid: LMOC04301
peakid: LMOC
year: 2004
route1: N Ridge or W Face intended
nation: USA
leaders: Kendall Dewey
sponsor: Four Winds Langmoche Ri Expedition
bcdate: 2004-10-12
smtdate: 2004-12-12
termdate: 2004-10-19
termnote: Climb not attempted due to too much snow
campsites: BC(12/10,5000m)
agency: Adventure Karnali
routememo:
  Did no climbing.

  Dewey got serious chest infection at BC so left expedition on 14.

  Snowfall on 12th and heavily on 14th-15th. 2 men to Tashi Lapcha Pass for Parcharmo climb. 16th big avalanche down North Face and swept down 9 climbers from 2 groups (3 Nepalis, 3 US and 3 French), so these two went to assist rescue which included sending for helicopter and got tired from these efforts. Snow conditions too dangerous to attempt to get to top; then went on 18th to SSW side of Langmoche Ri, "a beautiful mountain, great mountain to climb" in good snow conditions. Very happy with LO, so enjoyed the trip though didn't get on to mountain.


expid: TKPO04301
peakid: TKPO
year: 2004
route1: N Face (Central Pillar)
nation: France
leaders: Erwan Le Lann
sponsor: French Tengkangpoche Expedition 2004
approach: Thami Og
bcdate: 2004-10-06
smtdate: 2004-10-18
termdate: 2004-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 5200m due to heavy snow on route
othersmts: Attempted Tengi Ragi Tau South (TENS-043-01) (to 6100m)
campsites: BC(06/10,4300m),Biv(17/10,5100m),xxx(18/10,5200m)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  BC  at Thengpo
  Biv on North Face (rock pillar).

  From 10th Oct started fixing route and taking up equipment below making biv and sleeping on face. 18th tried to fix more ropes higher but on small ledge hip-deep snow and every crack in the face had snow but really impossible to put pitons at every crack. Climbed 100m higher and then abandoned attempt to climb higher. Had had big snowfall on 15th and avalanches were coming down while were on face fixing rope and taking gear up; lost one bag of gear but no one hurt. Route was in middle of North Face on big rock pillar direct to top and climbed about quarter of rock ridge which leads to a 300m snow ridge to summit.

  Then all three members went to small peak north northwest of Tengkangpoche on opposite of valley: Point 6180m on Schnieder Khumbu map; local name is Pahamlahaka. Climbed SE Ridge to 6100m, not to top because "not interesting" flat snow; down East Ridge. At high point on 21st Oct with one biv on way up and another down.


expid: TKPO04302
peakid: TKPO
year: 2004
route1: NE Face (to 5400m)
route2: NW Face (to 6200m)
nation: UK
leaders: Nick Bullock
sponsor: Tengkangpoche North Face Expedition
approach: Thami Og
bcdate: 2004-10-09
smtdate: 2004-10-24
termdate: 2004-10-26
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to ridge too dangerous
campsites: BC(09/10,3800m),ABC(21/10,4320m),Biv(22/10,4600m),C1(23/10,5900m),C2(24/10,6200m),xxx(24/10,6200m)
achievment: 1st ascent of NW Face to West Ridge
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  BC  at Thami Og for NE Face
  ABC at Thengpo
  Biv at base of NW Face on Thengpo Glacier
  C1  on NW Face
  C2  on West Ridge
  High point at West Ridge at of of NW Face.

  First acclimatized by trek towards Tashi Labtsa to 5400m, then to Thengpo for climb, then back to Thami Og which was their base. Waited for snow to settle and then 16 Oct to mountain and biv at about 4500m on NE Face. Midnight of 16th/17th attempt to climb face, got to 5400m; ground were on was avalanche prone and slab avalanche so started coming down (from 12 hours "we avoided death" says Bullock); got to 5400m at 8:00 am and down to Thami Og at noon. 

  Went to Namche and returned to Thami Og 20 Oct. 21st Oct to Thengpo dumped gear on NW Face at 4600m on Thengpo Glacier. 22nd returned  to dump site at 4600m and biv there. 23rd at 2:00 am went to 5900m at 6200m and bived there. Below 5900m no rope used but above they used 60m rope for each pitch climbed but no ropes fixed. From 5400m was 90-degree snow and ice face to top of NW Face at West Ridge. Arrived at ridge at 8:00 am. 25th left 6200m biv at 8:00 am and back to Thengpo; had reached 4600m biv site at 8:00 pm and Thengpo at 9:30 pm. Had decided on 24th, when could see West Ridge that ridge would have been very dangerous, time consuming and not worth the risk to go on it to summit. Face from 5900m to ridge was moderately difficult ice and snow. During descent snow was falling and spindrift avalanching but not heavy avalanche.


expid: KGRI04301
peakid: KGRI
year: 2004
route1: SSE Ridge-E Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Tim Blakemore
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Khangri Shar Ri Expedition 2004
bcdate: 2004-10-13
smtdate: 2004-10-20
termdate: 2004-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to impassible seracs and crevasses
campsites: BC(13/10,5400m),C1(19/10,5700m),xxx(20/10,6100m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC at Kangshar Glacier beside tiny lake
  C1 at foot of South Ridge leading to East Ridge
  High pont at east flank of SSE Ridge.

  Between 14th and 19th attempted 2 other lines but first was too steep and and crevassed and second too many serious seracs. Finally went to foot of SSE Ridge leading to East Ridge slightly east of summit. Both other members decided had enough, were tired and left from C1 on 20th, while Blakemore and Nuru Wangchu were climbing along the eastern flank of SSE Ridge and were stopped by seracs and crevasses which couldn't get around; so down to BC and climb finished except to clear mountain on 21st. Fixed 200m to C1 only.

  Sherpa:
    Nuru Wangchu (Everest X3)


expid: PUTH04301
peakid: PUTH
year: 2004
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Javier Bermejo Garde
sponsor: Putha Hiunchuli Expedition 2004
ascent1: 24th,25th
approach: Via Kakkot on Barbung Khola
bcdate: 2004-10-17
smtdate: 2004-10-24
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2004-10-29
campsites: BC(17/10,4900m),C1(18/10,5400m),C2(20/10,6100m),C3(23/10,6300m),Smt(24-25/10)
accidents: Only 2 people bad frostbite
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC south of moraine on scree north of the mountain
  C1 on moraine between 2 small glaciers
  C2 by 3 members.

  From C2 gentle slope but its snow like a seascape and not good for skiing but used skis to 100m below top, where all ice above; so skiers took off skis at 7140m and by camps. As to top -28 degrees and windy weather; from C3 at 6:00 pm and on top at 1:30 pm. Descended slowly is very bad visibility and returned to C3 at 4:00 pm and here Bermejo stopped in C3 with Eizaguirre and Larranaga while other 3 down to C1.

  Eizaguirre and Larranaga up to C3 from C2 on 24th and midnight of 24/25 Oct started for top on snowshoes and at 8:30 am 25th on top; used snowshows all the way. At midnight no clouds and little wind and same condition on summit. Down to C2 at 3:00 pm for Larranaga and 4 pm for Eizaguirre. Eizaguirre and Larranaga had stayed for days at C3 instead of going down and up again, so both have ten frostbitten fingers and frostbitten toes; also because many times needed to adjust snowshoes and therefore took off boots and gloves (6 had previously been to 6800m in Peru but Eizaguirre only to 3000m on mountain).


expid: PUTH04302
peakid: PUTH
year: 2004
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Jose Ramon Bacellar Azpeitia
sponsor: Sanga Putha Hiunchuli 2004
ascent1: 23rd
approach: Nepalgunj->Juphal->Dunai->Kanigaon->Kakkot->Pangzi
bcdate: 2004-10-13
smtdate: 2004-10-23
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2004-10-25
campsites: BC(13/10,4900m),C1(16/10,5250m),C2(17/10,5850m),C3(22/10,6200m),Smt(23/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Oct 23: Miss Hernando Villareal, Lopez Ligero, Sonam Dendu and Tharke left C3 at 04:00 hours, summited at 13:00 hours, stayed about 20 minutes, back to C3 at 16:00 hours. Next day to BC. 

  Leader Bacelar Azpeitia remained at BC all the time. Bayona Prats, Cobo Rayan, Diaz Bernabe Gonzalez Tello (all four people suffered from chest infection), Quero and Tellez all climbed up to C2. All members except leader slept at C1.

  The expedition returned to KTM on Oct 30 and leaving on Nov 1.

  Sherpas:
    Sonam Dendu, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X2, and Makalu and Lhotse once each
    Tarke, Solukhumbu, Cho Oyu X4

accidents:
  Barba Alonso's toes frostbitten on 23rd while he was little above C3, returned to BC, left BC on 25th, evacuated by helicopter from Juphal, left Nepal on 28th; Maria H.V. got frostbite-middle & ring finger of right hand


expid: BARU04301
peakid: BARU
year: 2004
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Charles Mori
sponsor: Baruntse 2004
countries: Germany
approach: Lukla->Mera La
bcdate: 2004-10-17
smtdate: 2004-10-20
termdate: 2004-10-23
termnote: Abandoned at 6850m due to partner's weakness (Charles was climbing alone)
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (by 3 members on 26 Oct)
campsites: BC(17/10,5400m),C1(19/10,6100m),xxx(20/10,6850m)
agency: Himalayan Journeys
routememo:
  BC  at lake
  C1  at top of West Col
  Highpoint at 6850m at middle of SE Ridge.

  Felix Engler, Samuel Stettler, Gustav Wuestenmann abandoned climb at West Col. They stayed one night on West Col and descended due to exhaustion.

  Mori and Peter Hody left C1 at 8:30 on 20 October. Peter Hody turned back at 6600m due to exhaustion. Mori continued to 6850m. He decided to turn back because he was on his own and it was quite late in the day (2 pm). He returned to BC the same day.

  Team walked out via the Amphu Lapcha.


expid: TLNG04301
peakid: TLNG
year: 2004
route1: NW Face (to 6600m)
route2: N Ridge/Pillar (to 5850m)
route3: W Face (to 7000m)
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Martin Otta
sponsor: Czech Expedition
approach: Ramche->Yalung Glacier
bcdate: 2004-10-04
smtdate: 2004-10-21
termdate: 2004-10-25
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to lateness in the day
campsites: BC(04/10,5250m),ABC(09/10,5400m),C1(20/10,6200m),xxx(21/10,7000m)
accidents: Rinn frostbitten feet
agency: Everest Adventure
routememo:
  Having been on Talung before, had much better idea of weather patterns, which are injurious one with wind from Sikkim blowing snow horizontally in 3 routes climbed.

  1) Otta and Cepelkova first acclimatized on NW Face. Started on 18th Oct and for 3 days in alpine style to 6600m on 20th, waited in tent at this point for wind to abate, and on 22nd and 23rd descended to BC. Did not go up again because no time left. Up in 2 bivs (at 5800m and 6200m) and down line east of ascent route in 1 biv (at 6200m).

  2) Holecek and Rinn on 18th started late because Rinn had stomach trouble. Went up a couloir mixed rock and ice on right side of North Ridge/Pillar to 5850m and bived there. There Rinn discovered he had frostbite on 3 toes on both feet because had spent 2-1/2 to 3 hours belaying and 1 was black, standing in one place; so down to ABC on 20th. Very disappointed, they are excellent climbers.

  3) Patek with Nankova 13 Oct up normal route on West Face to 6200m and 14 Oct to BC; had gone up only to acclimatize (Otta and Cepelkova had gone with them too to acclimatize). Patek with Cesenek 20th up normal West Face route for summit bid; went directly to normal C2 site at 6200m, slept there in biv and 21st up to 6250m-6300m when Cesenek, who had not gone on acclimatization climbing, got bad headache from altitude and he down to BC while Patek on up to 7000m just under Talung South Peak and down because late (4:00 pm) and down to 6200m tent and next day to BC. Climb finished.

  Mountain more difficult than in 2002 because of deep snow and avalanching. Next day after Otta and Cepelkova had been on ascent routes on NW Face, avalanches came down both sides of route including falling seracs and also now crevasses were hidden by deep snow.

  "The Pillar (North Pillar) is so beautiful its should be climbed" says Cepelkova.


expid: BARU04302
peakid: BARU
year: 2004
route1: W Col-SE Ridge
nation: Sweden
leaders: Krister Jonnson
sponsor: Alpine Madness Baruntse Expedition
countries: Australia
bcdate: 2004-10-20
smtdate: 2004-10-22
termdate: 2004-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6250m due to problems with equipment and porters
campsites: BC(20/10,5400m),C1(22/10,5800m),xxx(22/10,6250m)
accidents: Porter Norbu Borjirel, 35, died on his way from BC (altitude sickness 22 Oct)
agency: Destination Nepal
routememo:
  High point between West Col and foot of SE Ridge.

  Andersson and Jonsson climbed up to 6250m "without any problems, but we never had any chance to make summit attempt." We never had any chance to do any climbing because of problems with porters, food - porters did not do a good carry, bad equipment such as tents, badly equipped porters, and in the end after doing his job about carrying load, a dismissed porter died in Khare [near Mera La] (on his way home, says trekking agent). Agent says this death, reported to team, unnerved members. An another reason for abandoning climb, says agent, was one Swedish member (he doesn't know name) said he was sick, but agent thinks illness might have been imaginary (psychosomatic).


expid: CHOY04124
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Xavier Aymar
bcdate: 2004-04-21
smtdate: 2004-05-08
smttime: 1135
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (5th April)
campsites: BC(18/04),ABC(21/04,5700m),C1(28/04,6400m),C2(05/05,7000m),C3(07/05,7400m),Smt(08/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking?
routememo:
  Catalans came to Kathmandu in mid-March and flew to Lukla for trekking and acclimatization (climbed Gokyo Ri, Kalapattar and finally Island Peak on April 5).

  Arrived at Cho Oyu BC on April 21. Gasuli left team on April 24 with symptoms of pulmonary edema. Up to C2 at 7000m on April 29. Returned to C2 on May 5 after bad weather (after bad weather spell?). Up to C3 at 7400m on May 7. Summited Cho Oyu on May 8 at 11:45 NST after leaving C3 at 4:45 am. Aymar snowboard descent from 7700m to 7300m.

  Above deduced from Spanish website.


  Letter from Katya Goryshina, Royal Mountain Trekking
  Cho Oyu Spr '04

  The Belorussian team informed me that their tent was next to the Spanish tent at 7500m. On the 8th May they met 1 Spanish at about 8150-8180m He was coming down from the summit. 

  After they summited they met the other Spanish at 8000m. He was going up. They never talked and don't know their names for sure.

  On the 11 May in BC the Chinese officer told them that their certificate is the first one, nobody descended before them.


  Email from Barril,  2 March 2007

  We (Mr. Aymar and I) installed C1 on 26 April, nearly 6400m. I think our first night on C1 was on 28 April but I'm not sure.

  We installed the tent at C2 on 29 April. I don't remember if we slept there, I think we went down. We slept at C2 on 5 and 6 May.

  I arrived alone to the summit on 8 May at 11:35 am (Nepalese time). I did not see any other people there and I must open the track in the snow. I have been alone for about half hour on the top, then arrived to the summit the people from Belorussia. Mr. Aymar arrived after, I crossed him when I was going down.

  Mr. Aymar carried his snowboard till 7700m and when he went down I was not there, I don't know. I did not.

  We did not fix any ropes. But we paid to Dutch expedition for using their ropes. I think that it's impossible that Mr. Borja Pascual and Tarke Sherpa reached summit on 8 May. On 9 May we down to C1 and I don't know what happened in the summit area.


expid: CHOY04351
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Mario Castiglioni
sponsor: 2x8000 Cho Oyu Shishpangma Expedition
countries: Sweden, Switzerland
bcdate: 2004-09-07
smtdate: 2004-09-24
smttime: 0940
termdate: 2004-09-27
othersmts: Attempted Xixabangma (to C3 only)
campsites: BC(07/09),ABC(09/09,5700m),C1(13/09,6200m),C2(15/09,7100m),C3(23/09,7500m),Smt(24/09)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Summit bid from C3 2:30 am NST by Castiglioni, Parravicini, Ribaldi and Ang Babu (aka Jimba Zangbu). Riboldi stopped at 8000m tired; Parravicini stepped at 7650m tired and cold ,so only Castiglioni and Sherpa went to top at 9:40 am, saw Everest and Lhotse and down to C2 1:00 pm to wait for Riboldi who was last while Sherpa to C1 (Castiglioni would have gone to C1 with Sherpa). Ribaldi to C1 at 6:00 pm. Ribaldi reached C3, but no tent and no sleeping bag so had to go to C2 and lost trail and wandered till finally reached C2 in dark at 7:00 pm exhausted. Castiglioni told him to descend at 7900m when leader met him in leader's descent, but Riboldi said he had to get to 8000m first, continued up alone. All members in ABC 25th and BC on 26th.


  Romolo Riboldi (email) - 25 Jan 2014

  Riboldi states that the summit team left C3 ahead of him (without telling him that they were departing for the summit). Riboldi decided to go on up alone and met the two summiters on their descent at 7900m. Riboldi continued towards the top and thinks he got to somewhere above 8000m.


expid: KANG04301
peakid: KANG
year: 2004
route1: SW Face
nation: India
leaders: Col S. C. Sharma
sponsor: Indian Army (Dogra Regiment) Kangchenjunga Expedition
ascent1: 65th
approach: Ramche
bcdate: 2004-09-11
smtdate: 2004-10-10
smttime: 0910
termdate: 2004-10-13
campsites: BC(11/09,5600m),C1(17/09,6300m),C2(20/09,6600m),C3(23/09,7300m),C4(27/09,7900m),Smt(10/10)
accidents: Chauhan mild snowblindness on summit
agency: Gateway to the Himalaya
routememo:
  1st summit attempt left C4 on 1 Oct 21:00 hours: Chauhan, Dogra, Surender Singh and Ashok Kumar, Purba Rinzi, Danuri Chhiri and Dawa Wangchu; reached 8540m where a 60m high vertical rock stopped them because needed fixed rope, so went down to C4 at 4:30-5:00 pm of 2 Oct, very tired and next day to BC with all team.

  2nd summit attack party left BC 7th Oct to C2; 8th members in C3 in bad weather while Sherpas stayed in C2. 9th very windy, delayed start from C3 till 11:00 am and arrive C4 4:30 pm. Left C4 8:30 pm, on top at 9:10-10:30 am in clear weather; windy from starting time to summit, down to C3 for some, C2 for rest. 11th all in BC. [9:55 am summit time reported by Ministry of Tourism for all summiters.]

  Oxygen
    1st summit party: in C3, in C4 to high point to slightly above C4 by
        all members and Sherpas except Dawa Wangchuk.
    2nd summit party: same pattern except Dawa Wangchuk used it with 2nd party.

  Sherpa Summiters:
    Pemba Rinzi, 25/11/74, Kharikhola, Everest X6, Lhotse X1
    Damai Chhiri, 19/6/75, Sikli near Kharikhola, Everest X1
    Dawa Wangchuk, 17/12/72, Walung, Makalu VDC, Kangchenjunga X2,
      Everest X1, GII, Broad Peak
    Nima Wangdeki, 22/6/73, Kharikhola, Everest X2, Lhotse X1


expid: MANA04301
peakid: MANA
year: 2004
route1: NE Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Roberto Piantoni
sponsor: Italian Manaslu Expedition
approach: Arughat Bazar->Jagat->Philim->Shyala
bcdate: 2004-09-25
smtdate: 2004-10-11
termdate: 2004-10-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to much snowfall and strong wind
campsites: BC(25/09,4500m),C1(01/10,5600m),C2(11/10,6600m),xxx(11/10,6600m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  C2 - team did not sleep there, they set up camp and descended same day.
  Stopped point at C2.

  Continuous snowfall prevented team from carrying on. The weight of the snow broke three tents, 2 at C1 and one in the deposit camp at 5000m where they stored their climbing gear.

  Paolo-Giovanni Mangili had symptoms of pulmonary edema at BC. He did not climb above BC and descended on 1st October. He flew back to Italy on 9th October. He took the approach route on his way out.

  The 5 remaining members came back via Larkya Pass and took a bus from Besisahar to KTM.


expid: MANA04302
peakid: MANA
year: 2004
route1: NE Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Stefan Jungmann
sponsor: Montafoner-Paznauner Expedition to Manaslu
bcdate: 2004-10-05
smtdate: 2004-11-04
termdate: 2004-11-09
termnote: Abandoned at 7450m due to fierce cold winds
campsites: BC(05/10,7880m),C1(09/10,5720m),C2(03/11,6850m),xxx(04/11,7450m)
accidents: Mattle frostnipped toes
agency: Himalayan Garden Treks
routememo:
  BC  above Samagaon (Mattle arrived 16 Oct after trek)
  C1  above 5720m above rock on small ridge
  C2  at 6850m col below face
  Stopped at summit plateau.

  Hard work for us: we are 3 Sherpas. Reached C2 site on 24th after many days of snowfall, then avalanche came on 14 Oct midnight, damaged 3 tents (could no longer be used), so down to Samagaon on 15th. On 12th night had already had avalanche shaken tents and they fled to Samagaon that night. Both times tents hit by blasts of avalanches.

  Returned on 13th and 17th Oct from Samagaon. Now weather very good but 1 meter snow at BC but snow danger above it and big avalanche danger. Job to open track again; tried several times to get to C1 and C2 and finally reached C2 3 Nov after again heavy snowfall and tracks again had to be made over. 4th Mattle and Jungmann left 3:00 am for summit bid in very nice weather and at C3 site at 7:00 am then very strong wind, very difficult to stand against it (very cold wind). Had not intended to make a C3 but to keep climbing to top but now impossible to continue, so down to BC same day, taking C2 and C1 tents with them. 

  Same day also decided to try again for top in non-stop ascent. 7th at 1:00 am pm from BC all 3 members, stopped in Japanese C2 to cook (Japanese resting in BC) for 2 hours, then again up and reached 7100m at 3:30 am 8th but now strong wind very cold wind and again impossible to continue climb, so now really abandoned climb. Retreated to BC at 9:00 am on 8th.


expid: ANN104301
peakid: ANN1
year: 2004
route1: N Face (French route)
nation: Japan
leaders: Michio Sato
sponsor: Aichi Mountaineering Association Annapurna I Expedition 2004
bcdate: 2004-09-16
smtdate: 2004-10-10
termdate: 2004-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to Japanese deaths
campsites: BC(16/09,4300m),ABC(23/09,4900m),C1(28/09,5300m),C2(06/10,6600m),xxx(10/10,7300m)
accidents: Two avalanche deaths
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC  at normal site
  ABC on North Face
  C1  on North Face
  C2  on North Face (below "sickle")
  High point at C3 site on North face left of "sickle".

  One weak from arrival at BC and ABC because snowfall 2-3 days and afraid of avalanche. Again snowfalling after occupying C1 and again waited for snow to stabilize. From C1 to C2 fixed 28 ropes (50m each) and few days snowfall and avalanche broke ropes and had to refix. 10 Oct from C1 led by Nazuka, Yamamoto, Sato and Nishimura last seen at 11:00. Now big ice block and broke loose from glacier on opt of "Sickle" at above 7000m and fell onto sloping snowfield and set off big avalanches with block sliding too. Avalanche killed Nizuka and Sato by taking them 500 vertical meters down mountain. Yamamoto and Nishimura reached their prone bodies at 12:30 pm and Yamamoto confirmed they were dead and both to ABC, but Yamamoto moved bodies out of avalanche area first. Yamamoto returned to ABC by helicopter on 18 Oct with 9 Sherpas to recover bodies reached them on 20th under 3 meters of snow and helicopter again to ABC 22 Oct to remove bodies and Sherpas and Yamamoto. Bodies cremated in KTM.

  The site for C3 at 7300m was reached by Dawa Sherpa and Ang Phuri Lama on 10 Oct.

  [Ed. Avalanche accident estimated about 6000m (between C1 and C2)]


expid: HIML04301
peakid: HIML
year: 2004
route1: NW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Milann Tabone
sponsor: Himlung Himal Expedition Trauma 65
ascent1: 16th
approach: Besisahar->Bahundada->BC
bcdate: 2004-10-15
smtdate: 2004-10-25
smttime: 1530
termdate: 2004-10-26
campsites: BC(15/10,4800m),C1(20/10,5600m),C2(22/10,6100m),C3(24/10,6400m),Smt(25/10)
agency: Churen Himal Treks/Mandala Trekking
routememo:
  Seven members got only up to C2 and turned back due to exhaustion on 23 Oct. Remaining 5 members continued to C3 but only Allemoz, Nima Tenzing and Chhiring Dorje summited. Team skied from C3 down to BC, however, it was not possible to ski without interruptions. Allemoz did not take his skis to the summit. No one snowboarded. Very strong winds and cold (-40 degrees C). 

  Trauma 65 Expedition - reason for name: leader had a bad skiing accident in 2001. No 65 stands for district leader lives in.

  Both Sherpas came from Beding in Rolwaling.


expid: MANA04303
peakid: MANA
year: 2004
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Eiichi Usami
sponsor: Team Ukyo Mt Manaslu Expedition
bcdate: 2004-10-15
smtdate: 2004-11-11
termdate: 2004-11-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7650m due to strong winds
campsites: BC(15/10,5000m),C1(27/10,5850m),C2(28/10,6800m),C3(11/11,7650m),xxx(11/11,7650m)
accidents: Dayula Sherpa on fingers slightly frostbitten in C3
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  C1 occupied late because Usami waited for Katayama to arrive at BC by helicopter on 22nd. Never got above C3 because of strong winds. Slept in C3 only one night, 11th and 12th down to BC and climb finished.

  Oxygen used sleeping in C2 and C3 sleeping by members; Sherpas no oxygen.


expid: CHIV04301
peakid: CHIV
year: 2004
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Takeshi Wada
sponsor: Japan Alpine Club Mustang Expedition
ascent1: 1st
approach: Jomsom
bcdate: 2004-09-08
smtdate: 2004-09-18
termdate: 2004-09-22
othersmts: Saribung SW Ridge summited on 19th Sept by Kato, Koseki, Shibata, Wada and Yoshinaga
campsites: BC(08/09,5250m),C1(11/09,5650m),C2(15/09,6170m),Smt(18/09)
achievment: 1st ascent of Chivv
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at Nanta Khola
  C1 at glacier north of Khumjung Himal
  C2 at Chivv's NE Ridge just south of col at 6138m.

  From C2 went to Chivv's summit on 18th Sept via its NE Ridge. Very easy climb except first 200m above Col (60-70 degree snow ridge) and final 200m of rope here. Slept 18th night in C2. 18th Kota had stayed in C2 with headache but joined Chivv summiters in climb to Saribung's summit on 19th and all slept in C1 that night. 20th to BC. Fixed 700m total on Chivv and 300m on Saribung. Saribung easier than Chivv but fixed [rope] at crevasse. On Chivv fixed 500m more along the ridge to top. Both ridges entirely covered with snow; no ice on exposed rock.

  Saribung summited on 19th Sept by Kato, Koseki, Sibata, Wada and Yoshinaga.


expid: TILI04301
peakid: TILI
year: 2004
route1: NE Spur-NE Ridge intended
nation: Germany
leaders: Andreas Bucher
sponsor: Amical Alpin Tilicho Expedition 2004
countries: Austria, Switzerland
approach: Marshyandi->Manang
smtdate: 2004-10-16
termnote: Did no climbing on Tilicho
othersmts: Climbed Thorang Peak
campsites: xxx(16/10,5300m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  At Manang village, where team arrived on 11 Oct morning, it was snowing and porter strike as a result; stayed there that next day used cache of clothing including shoes and goggles left there by the trekking agent Thamserku and rented by Amical. Left 12th Oct and arrived Khangsar village and 20 cm snow on ground here, so stayed in Khangsar in lodges; in lodges leader sheltered porters and Sherpas as well as members. 13th good weather, sunny but cold and clear sky; lovely winter landscape, all white, no traces; dried out gear. 14th at small lodge southeast of Tilicho Lake where porters stayed but members in tents and light snowfall in afternoon. 15th up to west side of lake at 4900m campsite; snow more than 30 cm deep, so Bucher, 2 members and teams 3 Sherpas had made track for porters to this camp site. That night -25 degrees at this low altitude; Bucher that afternoon sent porters down to Manang. 16th to 5300m on small hill northeast of lake to have view of Mt. Tilicho (Bucher, 7 members and 3 Sherpas went here) making tracks all the way in 30 cm deep snow and cold. All decided not possible to attempt mountain: deep snow and constant avalanching. Returned to rest of members and held meeting. All unanimous agreement to make no attempt but go back to Manang village. Bucher, sent to Sherpas to go, quickly to Hongde to bring donkeys to team's heavy luggage where team went highly laden to Manang village in 2 days, on 18th Oct. 

  20th left Thorang La, arrived 23rd Oct, where made a base camp and climbed Thorang Peak, southwest of Thorang La 6165m high-deep snow but not really a climb just a trek. On summit Bucher, Bischof, Ehlert, Koenig, Lochner, G and M, R Koss, Tenbusch, Trozer and Sherpas Pasang, Pemba and Pemba on 25th Oct. From here to Muktinath and Jomsom and flew Jomsom to Pokhara.


expid: HIML04302
peakid: HIML
year: 2004
route1: W Ridge from S Face
nation: France
leaders: Bertrand Brouta
sponsor: Alibert Himlung Expedition
countries: Netherlands
approach: Phugarmo, east via Phu Khola
bcdate: 2004-10-04
smtdate: 2004-10-11
termdate: 2004-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(04/10,4300m),ABC(06/10,5100m),C1(10/10,5600m),C2(11/10,6000m),xxx(11/10,6100m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at foot of via Phu Khola
  ABC at flat part of moraine
  C1  at middle of glacier
  C2  at 6000m at small plateau, just below W Ridge on W Ridge South Face.

  Between C1 and C2 serious exposure to avalanche since much deep snow so moved to left, with technically difficult steep (60 degrees) pitches and fixed about 500m ropes here in higher snow almost hip-deep and difficult to make route to C2. Never got to West Ridge because of depth of snow. Sherpas went up to fix ropes to ridge but got only to 6100m when leader told them to come down because might start avalanching onto C2. In C2 were all 9 members and 4 Sherpas (two days later more snowfall). Went to BC on 12th.

  Maoists stopped team just before Jagat on Marshyangdi, demanded Rs 100 per day but when asked how this should be calculated, said they would visit camp that night but failed to turn up.


expid: NEMJ04301
peakid: NEMJ
year: 2004
route1: W Ridge from NW
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
sponsor: Terres d'Adventure Nemjung Expedition
countries: UK
bcdate: 2004-10-21
smtdate: 2004-10-30
termdate: 2004-11-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to bad weather and lack of time
campsites: BC(21/10,4900m),C1(25/10,5450m),C2(27/10,6150m),xxx(30-31/10,6500m)
agency: Glacier Safari Treks
routememo:
  BC at Pangri Glacier
  C1 at Pangri Glacier
  C2 at col on West Ridge.

  Bad weather from 25th every late morning and afternoon; wind, mist, cloud, snowfall, very cold (in C2 tent -20 degrees in morning), so couldn't continue climb after 11:00 am. Had difficulty finding route on glacier from BC to C1: small icefall (400m high) difficult to find way and lost one day here. On 30th Audra, Damilano, Delapierre, Magaud, Mahe, Paulin, Temple, Vernerey to high point; 31st Grobel, Guerin and Repiquet. All down to BC on 31st. Now no more time and all members very tired from fighting bad weather and coldness in early morning; no more pleasure. Fixed ropes on glacier BC to C1 (50m) and 750m from C2 to high point.

  5 Nepalese were in training, leaving expedition climbing - were Sherpas, Tamang, Rai and Newars - difficult for them.


expid: TILI04302
peakid: TILI
year: 2004
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Norbert Joos
sponsor: Tilicho 2004
countries: Germany
approach: Manang->Kangshar
othersmts: Climbed Pisang Peak to 5700m
agency: Himalayan High Country Treks
routememo:
  14 Oct team saw Tilicho from Kangsar and could see bad snow conditions.

  The group decided not to climb peak due to too much snow and avalanche danger.

  Decision 14 Oct made in Kangshar. From Kangshar they went to Pisang Peak, but turned back at 5700m due to too much snow. They then west over Thorong La to Jomsom 25 Oct and flew to KTM on 26th October.


expid: HIML04303
peakid: HIML
year: 2004
route1: W Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Reinhold Oblak
sponsor: First Austrian Himlung Expedition
ascent1: 15th
countries: Switzerland
approach: Helicopter to Chamre->Koto
bcdate: 2004-10-09
smtdate: 2004-10-19
smttime: 1515
termdate: 2004-10-21
achievment: 1st Austrians on top
agency: Blue Sky Treks
campsites:
  BC(09/10,4820m),ABC(10/10,5200m),C1(11/10,5635m),C2(16/10,6000m),C3(17/10,6320m),C4(18/10,6400m),Smt(19/10)

routememo:
  BC  south of Phu Khola
  ABC at small plateau on moraine
  C1  on West Ridge on snow
  C2  on West Ridge
  C3  before foresummit
  C4  at 6400m other side of foresummit.

  Heavy snowfall night of 11th so down to BC 12th. 14th back to C1. 16th to C2 and on up each day. Pilz, Oblak and 3 Tamangs left C4 for top at 8:15 am having waited for sun to start so "not so icy cold" wind. All 5 on top 3:15 pm having had to break from about 6550m (3 French women (Zuberor and teammates); "bitterly cold." Returned to C4 at 7:00 pm. All other members had gone back while Oblak and Pilz went on to C4 that day. Climb now finished. 20th all in BC.


expid: AMAD04310
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Josef Ludwig Hoesle
sponsor: Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Chhukung
bcdate: 2004-10-11
smtdate: 2004-10-21
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2004-10-25
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (Sept 24th)
campsites: BC(11/10,4260m),C1(18/10,5640m),C2(20/10,6400m),Smt(21/10)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  On 21st left C2 at 07:00 hours, summit at 11:00 hours, spent about 45 minutes, descended to BC at about 16:00 hours. Returned to KTM on 28th and will leave on 29th.

  Sherpa: 
    Dorje (Big Dorje), Thami, Everest X10, Makalu X2, Cho Oyu X1


expid: AMAD04303
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Josef Einwaller
sponsor: Jo+Paul 2004
bcdate: 2004-10-06
smtdate: 2004-10-18
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2004-10-21
campsites: BC(06/10,4500m),C1.ABC(09/10,5800m),C2(17/10,6400m),Smt(18,20/10)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  18th Oct left C2 6:00 am, on top 10:00 am. Einwaller to BC and Wofer to C1 that night; all in BC 19th (according to Hofer very hurriedly by telephone in KTM). 

  According to trekking agent, whose information comes from Hofer and Pemba Dorje, Einwaller's ascent was 20th Oct ascent; all down to base camp 20th, from where helicopter on 21 Oct brought them to KTM so they could fly home from KTM same night. 

  Einwaller was delayed in his ascent because he had come down to KTM on 9th Oct to consult a doctor about a lung problem was told he could return to the mountain and left KTM on 12th Oct to resume his climb.

  Sherpas: 
    Pemba Dorje, Beding, Everest X3, Lhotse X1
    Phurba Thundu, Beding, Pemba Dorje's brother


expid: AMAD04301
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Vincent Waters
sponsor: Ama Dablam Expedition 2004
bcdate: 2004-10-09
smtdate: 2004-10-19
smttime: 1700
termdate: 2004-10-22
campsites: BC(09/10,4600m),Smt(19/10)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC at normal site.

  Started up from Pangboche, where had gone from BC on 17th, having waited at BC for other teams to fix the ropes. Started up at 4:45 pm on 18th and stopped at BC for supper; from BC at 7:30 pm and stopped occasionally to rest and drink water. On top at 5:00 pm on 19th and down to C3 and used Spanish Basques Monterosa team's tent to sleep in. Down to BC on 20th.


expid: AMAD04302
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Casey Henley
sponsor: Mountain Madness Ama Dablam Expedition 2004
countries: Canada, UK
bcdate: 2004-10-23
smtdate: 2004-10-27
termdate: 2004-10-30
termnote: Abandoned at 5940m due to Sanga's illness
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (all members on 21 Oct)
campsites: BC(23/10,4500m),ABC(25/10,5400m),C1(26/10,5750m),C2(27/10,5940m),xxx(27/10)
accidents: Sanga respiratory illness
agency: Mountain Madness
routememo:
  Scaled Island Peak first on 21st Oct.

  All members reached C2 on 27th, but Sanga developed respiratory problem and needed to descend; no Sherpa was with them on Ama Dablam (Island Peak) because he decided to go elsewhere so with no Sherpa to take Sanga down, team decided all would go with him. Reached BC on 29th.


expid: AMAD04304
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dave McNally
sponsor: Mountain Odyssey Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 2004-10-23
smtdate: 2004-10-26
smttime: 1215
termdate: 2004-10-28
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East
campsites: BC(23/10,4630m),C1(24/10,5775m),Smt(26/10)
agency: Sherpa Alpine Trekking
routememo:
  First climbed Gokyo Ri and Lobuche East (summited 21 Oct by Starr, Jern and Mackay).

  Up from C1, Jern developed altitude sickness with bad headache and turned around at 19,700 ft and down to C1. Mackay and Starr to C3's site at 20,800 ft at 10:00 am. Now too late for summit by Mackay and returned to C1 so he turned around at C3 and down to C1. Starr had reached C3 site at 9:30 am and on to top at 12:15 pm; returned to C1 at 5:00 pm. All in BC 27th. 

  Starr almost got hit by falling rock set off by climber above him. Starr was at climb leading to yellow tower and C2 ("most dangerous part of the climb"). Made no C2 and C3 because of crowding (no space available for camps). On way down rock fell from crowd and descent slowed by having to wait at little rocks, waiting for others upon descending slowly.

  McNally never reached BC because of old back problems aggravated by Lobuche East climb.


expid: AMAD04305
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Teddy Anderson, Willie Benegas
sponsor: North Face Ama Dablam Expedition 2004
countries: Argentina
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Pokalde->Dingboche
bcdate: 2004-10-27
smtdate: 2004-10-30
termdate: 2004-11-01
othersmts: Climbed Pokalde on 24 Oct
campsites: BC(27/10,4900m),C1.ABC(28/10,5200m),C2(29/10,6000m),C3(30/10,6300m),Smt(30-31/10)
agency: Nomad Expeditions
routememo:
  C2 - 4 summiters on 30th went straight to summit from C2
  C3 - 4 summiters on 31st stayed night at C3.

  Straightforward climb. Group went back to Lukla and flew back on 4 Nov.


expid: AMAD04306
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Tonya Riggs
sponsor: Team Trango to Ama Dablam
approach: Lukla->Thami->Renja La->Gokyo->Cho La->Lobuje
bcdate: 2004-10-23
smtdate: 2004-10-27
smttime: 1515
termdate: 2004-10-31
othersmts: Climbed Nirekha (17 Oct) (NREK-043-01) and Lobuche East (20 Oct)
campsites: BC(23/10,4900m),C1(24/10,6100m),C2(26/10,6300m),C3(27/10,6600m),Smt(27/10)
accidents: Madison Post got frostbite on two toes
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  Summiters left C2 at 7 am on 27 Oct and arrived C3 at 11:30 (1 summiter Gagnon was already at C3). Team climbed together, summited at 3:15 pm and stayed at C3 on return at 7 pm. 

  Post and Pilot climbed from C3 and got to about 80m below the summit. They turned back due to extreme cold. Demarest gave up at C3. Parsons and Wiltfang turned back between C2 and C3 at base of great tower due to rockfall on the previous day.

  Climbed Nirekha (17 Oct by Riggs, Gagnon, Hovland) and Lobuche East (20 Oct by all 9 members).


expid: AMAD04307
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Tim Rippel
sponsor: Peak Freaks Ama Dablam Expedition 2004
countries: Turkey
bcdate: 2004-10-03
smtdate: 2004-10-18
termdate: 2004-10-20
campsites: BC(03/10,4600m),ABC(06/10,5200m),C1(08/10,5900m),C2(16/10,6200m),Smt(18/10)
accidents: Reisinger one frostbitten toe but not serious
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  Sherpa summiters: 
    Ang Dendi, 24 yrs old, often works for Explore Himalayan Trekking. 

  Ramsey went just above BC, not acclimatizing, left about 10-12 Oct.
  Nouri left with his friend Ramsey at Ramsey's request (was climbing well).


expid: AMAD04308
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Ricardo Guerrero Martinez
sponsor: Cordoba 8000 - Everest 2004 to Ama Dablam
approach: Lukla->Namche->Dingboche->Island Peak->Chhukung
bcdate: 2004-10-12
smtdate: 2004-10-22
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2004-10-26
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (both on Oct 10)
campsites: BC(12/10,4600m),C1.ABC(14/10,5300m),C2(20/10,5700m),C3(21/10,6300m),Smt(22/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  On 22 Oct both left C3 at 09:00 hours. Guerrero Martinez reached summit at 12:00 hours and Campos Aguirre reached summit at 12:30 hours. Stayed about 20 minutes on summit. It was very cold and windy. Other summiters were Spanish, Americans and some Sherpas ahead of Campos. Both climbers returned to C3 between 14:00-15:00 hours. Next C2. 

  The team returned to KTM on Oct 30 and will leave on Nov 02. Both are planning for Everest north side without oxygen in 2007.


expid: AMAD04309
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Alberto Magliano
sponsor: Italian Sewer Rats Expedition to Ama Dablam
approach: Lukla->Namche->Dingboche
bcdate: 2004-10-10
smtdate: 2004-10-21
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2004-10-24
campsites: BC(10/10,4400m),C1.ABC(12/10,5300m),C2(17/10,6100m),Smt(21/10)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  On 21st left alone C2 at 05:15 hours, summited at 12:30 hours, spent about half an hour, back to C2. Next day to BC. Magliano met an Israeli (23 years old) on summit. Before Magliano there were about 8 or 9 people, but nobody after him. Weather was clear but little windy. Other member Masa went up to 5600m (approx) between C1 and C2 on 20th; then exhausted went down to BC. The expedition returned to KTM on 27th and leaves on 29th.


expid: AMAD04311
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Jose Ramon Lasa
sponsor: Basque Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2004-10-09
smtdate: 2004-10-22
campsites: BC(09/10,4580m),ABC.C1(10/10,5400m),C2(12/10,5700m),C3(21/10,6200m),Smt(22/10)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Left C3 on 22 Oct at 08:50 hours, reached summit at 11:50 hours, spent about 20 minutes on summit, descended to C3 where he reached at about 13:30 hours. Next day to BC. Other summiters were three Spanish probably of Sanga and an American with Sherpa. 

  About other members: Goiburu went up to C2 on Oct 17 where he got headache probably due to altitude; rest of the days Goiburu stayed in BC. Telleria up to C2 where he slept on 17th, but felt uneasy, probably due to altitude and remained in BC. Urmeneta went up to C2, then gave up climbing - no motivation. 

  The expedition members arrived KTM on Oct 28 and will leave on 31st.

  Lasa wants to know some information on Api Himal and Saipal (pictures, other climbers detail).


expid: AMAD04312
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Romolo Nottaris
sponsor: New Rock Expedition to Ama Dablam
bcdate: 2004-10-24
smtdate: 2004-11-02
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2004-11-10
campsites: BC(24/10,4600m),C1(04/11,5700m),C2(05/11,5900m),Smt(02,06/11)
agency: Royal Orchid Treks
routememo:
  Steck arrived BC 24 Oct directly from Lukla, while all other members went first to Nangpa La, Renjo La, Phortse and Pangboche, so arrived on 2nd Nov. 

  Steck left BC alone at 4:00 am on 2 Nov, got to summit at 12:00 noon and returned to BC same day at 4:00 pm.

  On 6 Nov Mattei, Nottaris, Schmid, Spinelli, Steck (again), Dendi Sherpa left BC at 4:30 am and on top at 12:00 noon, then down to  C1 that night.

  Caverzarsio went to C1 on 4th Nov, was tired so descended to BC on 5th and left expedition 6th Nov.

  Summit Sherpas: 
    Dendi Sherpa, Gudel VDC, Sonam, Solu (Dec 1972)
    Lhakpa Tenje Sherpa, Gudel VDC, Sanam, Solu

  Nottaris twisted his ankle on way from Pangboche to Namche on 10 Nov.


expid: AMAD04313
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Tarn Pilkington
sponsor: DCXP Ama Dablam Expedition 2004
countries: New Zealand, UK
approach: Lukla->Lobuche->Dingboche->Kangno La->Chhukung
bcdate: 2004-10-31
smtdate: 2004-11-04
smttime: 1215
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East (Oct 20th) and Pokalde (Oct 23)
campsites: BC(31/10,5550m),C1(01/11,5800m),C2(02/11,6100m),C3(03/11,6300m),Smt(04/11)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Nov 04 all five members and three Sherpas left C3 at 08:00 hours, summited between 12:00-12:30 hours, stayed on summit about 40 minutes. Returned to C3 between 15:00 to 15:30 hours. Next day to Pangboche. Summit day weather was pretty nice, not much wind and summit was quite warm. The other summiters on that day before them were about five people (from Himalayan Guides). 

  The expedition returned to KTM on Nov 8. Pilkington trying to leave on the 11th if not on 14th. Finch leaves on 11th and rest of the members on 12th.

  Sherpa summters:
    Tshering Pande Bhote from Sankhuwasabha Hatiya-1, Farang, 1978-02-20
       Everest summit two times, Ama Dablam 4 times, 
    Jyamchang Bhote from same place, summited Everest, Cho Oyu and Ama Dablam
    Deusa Bhote also from same place, summited Ama Dablam twice


expid: AMAD04314
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Mateo Hernandez Izquierdo
sponsor: Bejar Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 2004-10-10
smtdate: 2004-10-22
smttime: 1040
termdate: 2004-10-26
campsites: BC(10/10,4600m),ABC.C1(12/10,5400m),C2(20/10,5700m),C3(21/10,6300m),Smt(22/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at 4600m at usual site
  ABC at little higher than usual site
  C2  at usual campsite
  C3  at usual campsite.

  On Oct 22 Villalonga left C3 at 08:00 hours, summited at 10:40 hours, stayed on summit about 15 minutes, returned to C3 at about 13:00 hours. Next day to C2. Summit day weather was clear, little windy, very cold. Before him on summit were Bob from America with Lakpa Sherpa, a team of some Sherpas with one Sherpani, other Americans. After Villalonga on summit were Basque man, 2 Spanish and Germans he thinks. 

  Leader Hernandez climbed up to 5900m from C2 on 21st, exhausted and decided to turn back to BC. Lamagrande went up from ABC maybe 100m, got headache and went down to BC.

accidents:
  Hermosa Reig suffered from chest pain, face and hands start losing feeling at ABC on 16th (spent night and went down to BC and remained there)


expid: AMAD04315
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Court Haegens
sponsor: Ama Dablam North Ridge Expedition 2004
bcdate: 2004-10-05
smtdate: 2004-10-21
termdate: 2004-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 5400m due to lack of trust amongst members
othersmts: Climbed Pokalde
campsites: BC(05/10,4750m),ABC(13/10,5100m),xxx(21/10,5400m)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at Chhukung village (in lodge)
  ABC at behind (west) moraine ridge.

  Between 5th and 13th did some acclimatizing on Chhukung Ri and then Pokalde (summit by all members 10th Oct). 13th and 14th snowfall; on 14th back to BC. Up again on 17th Oct to ABC with porters carrying all gear. 18th recce to col at foot of North Ridge. 20th up to C2 and climbed 2 pitches but very difficult with snow over granite rock; at 2nd pitch loose powder snow waist-deep so back from 5500m on North Ridge to ABC. 21st Michael did recce of NE Ridge's normal route but also had no chance to climb very difficult rock step so back to ABC. Plan for other 2 to go as high as possible fixing ropes while Michael to Chhukung to bring more food from lodge, but Anne and Haegens got only to end of moraine, 50m rock from ABC then back to ABC.

  Problem was within team; you must have trust in each other, to spend 10 days on technically difficult route in alpine-style. 21st Michael went up to NE Ridge to 5400m in recce. 22nd decided to abandon climb. Stress in interpersonal relation amongst members made Michael's problem of bad headache from brain nerves under stress so this another factor in decision not to continue.


expid: AMAD04316
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Richard Bolt
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Ama Dablam Expedition 2004
countries: Germany
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2004-10-11
smtdate: 2004-10-21
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2004-10-25
othersmts: Candrian and Walder summited Island Peak on Oct 23 and returned to Ama Dablam BC on Oct 25
campsites: BC(11/10,4500m),ABC(13/10,5300m),C1(16/10,5800m),C2(20/10,6100m),Smt(21-22/10)
agency: Iceland Trekking (Dorje)
routememo:
  On Oct 21 Bolt and Merat left C2 at 05:00 hours. Bolt summited at 10:00 hours and Merat at 10:30 hours. Stayed about half an hour, then descended to BC where both climbers reached at 19:00 hours. On that day about 8 people summited including Spanish, German, Italian and some Sherpas. Weather was clear, little windy. 

  On 22 Oct Grobert, Hornberger, Thilen, Ang Dawa and Rinchin Sherpa left C2 at 03:00 hours, summit at about 09:30 hours almost all together. Stayed about 10 minute on summit. Grobert and Hornberger descended to BC at 20:00 hours. Three Sherpas stayed in C1. Next day to BC. The weather was very windy. 

  About other members: Abegglen went up to C2 on 21st, then he was tired and rest of time remained in BC. Candrian climbed up to the place between C1 and C2, decided not to continue as his girl friend Luethy got fever and wanted to be with her. Rest of the time remained in BC. Miss Luethy spent night in C1 on 21st, got fever, descended to BC and remained there for rest of the time. Walder had bad night in C2 on 20th, could not sleep, probably due to altitude, went down to BC and remained there.

  Sherpas (all from Makalu regions):
    Thilen Sherpa, Everest, K2, Ama Dablam, 18/5/68, Makalu-5, Tashigaon
    Ang Dawa Sherpa, probably 2nd time on Ama Dablam, Makalu-5, Tashigaon
    Rinjen Sherpa, Makalu-9, 1st time Ama Dablam


expid: AMAD04317
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Jeong-Hwan
sponsor: Korea Ascent Alpine Club Ama Dablam Expedition 2004
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2004-09-20
smtdate: 2004-09-24
termdate: 2004-10-13
termnote: Abandoned at 6250m due to bad weather and snowfall
campsites: BC(20/09,4450m),ABC(22/09,5240m),C1(23/09,5800m),C2(24/09,6250m),xxx(24/09,6250m)
agency: Hyecho Adventure Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at usual campsite
  ABC at usual campsite
  C1  at usual campsite
  C2  at usual campsite.

  Four members Hwang Dae-Eom, Noh Young-Soo, Lee Ho-Young and Lee Jeong-Hwan (leader) were in C1 on Sept 23. Rest of the time they remained in ABC. Since the weather conditions remained bad, all the members left BC on Oct 6 and left Nepal on 15th. Lee Jung-Kwoon and Lee Ho-Young returned to KTM on Oct 16 and planning to leave the country on 20th. Weather condition was bad snowfall almost every day and not possible to put up C3.

accidents:
  Han Mi-Na (Mrs) suffered from HAS (vomiting in ABC on Sept 22 - she had to spend two nights in ABC then was sent down to BC)


expid: AMAD04319
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Luis Stitzinger
sponsor: DAV Summit Club Ama Dablam Expedition 2004
countries: Belgium
bcdate: 2004-10-07
smtdate: 2004-10-19
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2004-10-22
campsites: BC(07/10,4600m),ABC(10/10,5600m),C1(12/10,5800m),C2(15/10,6100m),C3(18/10,6300m),Smt(19/10)
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  On 19th left all together C3 at 07:30 hours, summited at 12:00, stayed on summit 45 minutes, descended to C3 (all members and Sherpas at 15:30 hours). Next day to BC. Weather was excellent, very clear day. Before this team on summit two climbers probably from American expedition and after one French and a Sherpa. 

  The expedition returned to KTM on Oct 26 and will leave Nepal on 29th.

  Sherpas:
    Nawang Thawa Sherpa (2028/12/12), Gaurishankar VDC, Dolakha, summited Cho Oyu
    Singi Lama (2026/7/6), Kiel VDC, Sindhupalchowk, summited Ama Dablam with DAV
      in 2003


expid: AMAD04320
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jean Paul Blais
sponsor: Ama Dablam Hautes Alpes 2004
bcdate: 2004-10-12
smtdate: 2004-10-21
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2004-10-24
campsites: BC(12/10,4700m),ABC(15/10,5400m),C1(18/10,5800m),C3(20/10,6300m),Smt(21-22/10)
accidents: Only serious problem was J. P. Blais frostbite
agency: Churen Himal Treks
routememo:
  Had to wait to make summit bid because so many climbers on mountain, no place for a C2 and had to wait to go to C3, skipping C2. So did not have very good acclimatization and had headaches.

  Bianchin, F. Blais and Rambaud and Iman Gurung left C3 7:00 am and on top 10:00 am and down to C1. 22nd Escalle, Gelbu Sherpa and his wife Dolma Sherpa and Tashi Dorje Sherpa up from C3 at 6:00 am, at top at 9:00 am and also down to C1 to sleep. 

  J. P. Blais frostbitten fingers from summit when took off gloves to adjust his harness. 1st summit party reached C1 at 7:00 pm; took long time because too many others on route too.


expid: AMAD04321
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Martin Goeggelmann
sponsor: Amical Alpin Ama Dablam Expedition 2004
countries: Austria, Switzerland
bcdate: 2004-10-05
smtdate: 2004-10-18
termdate: 2004-10-20
campsites: BC(05/10,4650m),ABC(12/10,5400m),C1(12/10,5700m),C2(17/10,6100m),Smt(18/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  17th Oct was problem with so many people on route above at yellow tower below C2 above C3: Amical leader and 4 members, 15 members from Mazur's team behind Goeggelmann very slow climbers and necessary for Goeggelmann and Mazur's Reilly pulling up rucksacks of these slow people who didn't know how to use jummars properly, tried to climb faces, but fell in the ropes. This greatly delayed Amical arrival at C2, so past it to C3 because this delay. Bob and Forstner turned back just above C2. Goeggelmann's people reached C3 3:00-3:30 pm while Goeggelmann just at dark at 6:00 pm because he was helping his other 4 clients, 2 of whom stopped at C2, and Weninger 6:30 pm at C3. When Goeggelmann was in BC Oct 15 had conferred with other leader and Sherpas about fixing rope above C3; route had been fixed to C3 but not above. 

  18th Oct early morning talked with Sirdar Chuldim and learned not enough rope available to finish fixing ropes above C3 to top all the way. Going up on 18th Goeggelmann, Boner, Kastning, Kasmanhuber, Kramer, Weninger from C3. At about 6550m Kasmanhuber turned back with cold fingers; others now told confusion about rope being fixed up above and route not fixed this day. Boner on top with other teams member and Sherpas without rope. Goeggelmann waiting for Kastning, Kramer and Weninger to arrive at end of fixed rope; now at 6750m and then turned back because route not fixed and all back to C2.


expid: AMAD04322
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Karl Wieser
sponsor: Austrian Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Gokyo Ri->Cho La->Lobuje East
bcdate: 2004-10-22
smtdate: 2004-10-25
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2004-10-27
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East
campsites: BC(22/10,4550m),C1(23/10,5700m),C2(24/10,6300m),Smt(25/10)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Team left C2 at 7 am and arrived at summit 4 hours later. No one else was climbing up when they were going up but they met some climbers on their way down.

  On the way back team stayed in Namche for two nights and flew back from Lukla on 30th Oct.


expid: AMAD04323
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Roman Kurz
sponsor: Independent climber on Ama Dablam
bcdate: 2004-11-11
smtdate: 2004-11-15
termdate: 2004-11-16
othersmts: Climbed Pumori by Kurz and Ang Pasang (PUMO-043-05)
campsites: BC(11/11,4600m),C1,C2(14/11,6600m),Smt(15/11)
agency: Himalayan High Country Treks
primid: PUMO04305
routememo:
  Carried loads to C1 on 12th and 13th rested in BC and 14th to C2. 15th from 6:30 am top in 6-1/2 hours and 3 hours to return to C2 to sleep. Kurz 20m below summit going towards it when he pulled on fixed ropes and pulled out snowbar at rope's top; Kurz somersaulted over backwards and landed on his feet 2-3m down on small ledge unhurt. 16th from C2 to Pangboche.


expid: AMAD04324
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Gerard Vaginay
sponsor: Independent climber on Ama Dablam (on Spanish Bejar permit)
approach: Lukla->Namche->Hiligo
bcdate: 2004-10-10
smtdate: 2004-10-20
termdate: 2004-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to exhaustion and fed up with acclimatization
campsites: BC(10/10,4700m),ABC(15/10,5300m),C1(16/10,5900m),xxx(20/10,6200m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at usual camp ite
  ABC at 5300m at usual campsite.

  On 20th left C1 at 06:30 hours and reached C2 at about 09:30 hours, then turned back to BC where they reached around 14:00 hours. Vaginay said he climbed independently with Pemba Sherpa as his guide. He was fed up with climbing the same route several times. He returned to KTM on 24 and leaves on Oct 31.


expid: AMAD04325
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Dieter Rachbauer
sponsor: Austrian Team on Ama Dablam
bcdate: 2004-10-18
smtdate: 2004-10-27
termdate: 2004-10-29
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(18/10,4600m),C1(21/10,5800m),C2(26/10,6300m),Smt(27/10)
accidents: Only Bernd Rachbauer frostbite
agency: Mila Adventure
routememo:
  From Lukla went to Kalapattar Everest BC and climbed Island Peak; all 3 members summited with Nawang Tenzing from Phortse on 16th Oct.

  22nd went to C2 to deposit gear and down to BC. 25th up to C1, 26th to C2, 27th from C2 to top to C1 (on top between 10:30 am and 1:00 pm). To BC 28th.

  Bernd Rochbauer on top knew he had frostbitten fingers; are dark blue but can't tell yet how much loss.


expid: AMAD04327
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Didier Delahaye
sponsor: French Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Deboche
bcdate: 2004-10-05
smtdate: 2004-10-19
smttime: 1110
termdate: 2004-10-22
campsites: BC(05/10,4700m),ABC(08/10,5300m),C1(08/10,5800m),C2(13/10,6000m),C3(18/10,6400m),Smt(19-20/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at usual campsite
  ABC at usual campsite (two members slept).

  Oct 19 Bonneau and Muktu Sherpa left C3 at 03:40 hours, summited at 11:10 hours, stayed on summit 20 minutes, arrived at C2 at 12:20 hours and to C1 around 17:00 hours. Same day Delahaye reached summit around 12:30 hours; he started from C3. 

  On 20th Le Moal and Thoreau reached the summit; they started from C3. 

  The expedition returned to KTM on 28th and left on 30th.

  Other two members Dard and Emonet high point was around 100m below C1; they gave up climbing due to tiredness.

  Muktu Lhakpa Sherpa from Makalu village.


expid: AMAD04328
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Henry Todd
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Ama Dablam Expedition 2004
countries: Ecuador, France, Georgia, Italy, USA
bcdate: 2004-10-23
smtdate: 2004-10-26
smttime: 1100
agency: Himalayan Guides
campsites:
  BC(15,22-27/10,4600m),ABC(20/10,5200m),C1(22-23/10,5600m),C3(27-28/10,6250m),Smt(26,28/10),Smt(04,07-08,17/11)

routememo:
  Henry Todd

  BC  15 Oct 22-27 Oct at 4600m
  ABC 20 Oct at 5200m
  C1  at 22-23 Oct at 5600m
  C3  at 27-38 Oct at 6250m

  Todd moved "his teams to mountain after others had left or one leaving and try to have as little impact on available space for camps; has BC in own site, minimized usage space available to us and not try to send flood of people up at same time or part of tents left empty much of the time." Used ABC because of crowding at C1. Only 5-6 people summiting at a time, minimizing crowding.

  Sherpa summiters: 
    Pasang Dawa (aka Pa Dawa), Pangboche, Everest X5 Lhotse X1, Cho Oyu X4
    Gurmin Dorje, Pangboche, Everest X3

  Members came to BC and left at different times. Some never met each other; not one team. Todd provided all facilities for members to come and go up mountain and go as they pleased.


  Maegan Carney's information:

  Before I went to Ama Dablam, I went to Lobuche East and Island Peak. 

  I climbed [on Ama Dablam] alone but camped with David Mellor; David Mellor was accompanied by Gurmin Sherpa from Pangboche. David summited at 11 am. Tim Calder and Guy Hembury summited at 12 noon with Pasang Dawa. Clear morning with light wind, very cold. By 10:30 clouds had filled the valleys. By noon, cloudy skies with short periods of visability.


  David Wright - 22 June 2006 (by email)

  After consultation, the results are as follows. Irene Shorhadze, Ellen Miller, Chris Brand and Gurmin Dorje summitted together at 11.45 am on 4th November 2004, Pasang Dawa summitted at 11:55 approximately, and I summitted 20 minutes after the main group at 12:05.


  [Joby Ogwyn, Brendan Leech and Allessandra Pasquino climbed part way up Ama Dablam to film the mountain.]


expid: AMAD04329
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Konrad Prantl
sponsor: Italian Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Germany
bcdate: 2004-11-19
smtdate: 2004-11-22
termdate: 2004-11-29
campsites: BC(19/11,4600m),C1(21/11,5700m),C2(23/11,6000m),Smt(22,25-27/11)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Acclimatized via Gokyo, Kalapattar, Everest BC. No strong wind during climb but cloudy and on 26 Nov very cloudy. 25th could see mountains but 26th could see none.


expid: AMAD04330
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Jung Ho-Jin
sponsor: Yomgak Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: USA
bcdate: 2004-11-14
smtdate: 2004-11-22
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2004-11-28
campsites: BC(14/11,4500m),C1(19/11,5800m),C2(20/11,6100m),C3(21/11,6450m),Smt(22,25/11)
accidents: Park one frostbitten finger; Wan mild altitude sickness
agency: Hyecho Adventure Trekking
routememo:
  22nd Nov and summit party of Cho Sang-Hee, Chu, Wangchu and Lhakpa left C3 4:00 am. 200m higher Won turned back because altitude sickness but other 4 to top. Wangchu on top 10:30 am, Chu 11:45 and Cho Sang-Hee and Lhakpa at 12:00 noon; all 5 to C2 to sleep. Snowing during during descent so difficult to go down.

  25th Nov 2nd summit team of Jung, Park and Chongba left C3 for top at 9:30 am and on top Changba at 1:00 pm and Park and Jung at 2:00 pm and slept in C3 very tired. Climb now finished.

  Oldest member Chung went up early to 4500m, too tired to continue and stayed in BC during the rest of the expedition. Cho Dae-Haeng reached C2 only.

  Sherpa summiters: 
    Nawang Wangchu, Choplung, Solu, Dhaulagiri X1, Everest X4
    Nawang Lhakpa, Choplung, Solu, 1971
    Changba Norbu, Tate, Chaurikharka-7, Solu


expid: AMAD04331
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Timothy Mosedale
sponsor: British Ama Dablam Expedition 04
countries: Australia, USA
bcdate: 2004-10-22
smtdate: 2004-11-01
termdate: 2004-11-04
campsites: BC(22/10,4600m),ABC(24/10,5200m),C1(27/10,5600m),C2(29/10,5950m),C3(31/10,6300m),Smt(01-02,06/11)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  Reports of Sherpas on this expedition used others food and fuel not true, but 1 Sherpa's taking another team's crampons was true and Sherpas reprimanded for this.

  Mosedale had system of always having a climbing Sherpa or his deputy leader Gormley or himself in camps when members were there: in ABC 1 Sherpa when members there temporarily; in C1 1 or 2 Sherpas and either Mosedale or Gormley; in C2, 1 Sherpa or Mosedale or Gormley; in C3 1 Sherpa.

  Collier reached ABC, got chest infection and climbed no higher.

  Members left early: 
    Appleby got to 6000m, saw summit not possible for him and left 1 Nov.
    A. Illingwarth got to 5000m only; not a climber but there only for the trek  
       and to take photos - left 2 or 3 Nov.
    S. Illingwarth got no higher than ABC - developed chest infection and left 
       with her daughter.
    Kay was very slow got to C1, saw summit impossible and left 2 or 3 Nov.


expid: AMAD04332
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Luis Benitez
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Ama Dablam Expedition 2004
countries: Australia, New Zealand, UK
bcdate: 2004-10-23
smtdate: 2004-11-02
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2004-11-06
campsites: BC(23/10,4600m),ABC(28/10,5100m),C1(29/10,5400m),C2(31/10,5700m),C3(01/11,6200m),Smt(02-03/1)
accidents: Grayson's bronchitis
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Too many groups not led properly and irresponsibly and too cheaply. Some Sherpas took other teams fuel and food and even crampons. HMG must restrict permits because of mountain overcrowded. "Almost come to critical mess." 

  Grayson developed serious bronchial infection in C3, used oxygen descending from C2 to C1 and in C1 one night.

  Anderson got to 5600m only - not a skilled climber.
  Smith got to C3, then ran out of energy.
  Varcas got to ABC only, then ran out of energy.
  (All 3 stayed till climbing finished).


expid: AMAD04334
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Eric Larson
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Ama Dablam Expedition 2004
bcdate: 2004-11-17
smtdate: 2004-11-29
smttime: 1335
termdate: 2004-12-03
campsites: BC(17/11,4600m),C1(22/11,5800m),C2(27/11,5973m),C3(28/11,6000m),Smt(29/11)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  Summit bid by 3 members and Mingma Tshering. Left C3 at 10:00 am afer waiting for wind to abate. Tankersley had turned back between C1 and C2 on 27th (said she "just couldn't do it"). On top at 1:35 pm and back to C3 at 3:30 pm.


expid: AMAD04336
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Gary Scott
sponsor: BACE 2004 to Ama Dablam
countries: Australia, Germany, UK
bcdate: 2004-11-14
smtdate: 2004-11-19
termdate: 2004-11-20
campsites: BC(14/11,4600m),C1(16/11,5800m),C2(17/11,6100m),Smt(19/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Diane and Wolfgang Stiller and Scott went to C1 only. Tickle went to C2 with Barnett but did not go for summit: had "run out of stream".


expid: AMAD04326
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Wally Berg
sponsor: Berg Adventures Ama Dablam Expedition 2004
countries: Canada
bcdate: 2004-11-18
smtdate: 2004-11-26
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2004-11-28
campsites: BC(18/11,4600m),C1(20/11,5780m),C3(25/11,6220m),Smt(26/11)
accidents: Berg bad chest cold and used oxygen in BC
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  Shinn, Meekins, Morgan, and Nuru Tashi left C3 7:30 am; Morgan stopped at 6656m because too slow and Meekins escorted him down and back to C3 while Shinn and Nima Tashi to top at 12:00  noon and back to C3. When on top clouds scudding and very cold but only slight wind.


  12 Oct 2004 - Jim Williams on another USA Ama Dablam: 

  Berg had chest infection but continued climbing and altitude excacerbated condition with more fluids collecting in lungs: he then couldn't move because of oxygen starvation. Had to be put on oxygen by Sherpas between C2 and C1 in descent, and was carried from BC to evacuation helicopter that flew into BC.


expid: AMAD04338
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: SummitClimb Ama Dablam Expedition 2004
countries: Argentina, Australia, Canada, Denmark, France, Germany, Israel, Netherlands, Sweden, Taiwan, UK
bcdate: 2004-10-07
smtdate: 2004-10-19
termdate: 2004-10-27
campsites: BC(07/10,4600m),ABC(09/10,5400m),C1(11/10,5800m),C2(17/10,6000m),C3(19/10,6300m),Smt(19-25/10)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  Jones reached C2, decided that having reached his goal of 6000m that was enough and left expedition 17th Oct.

  Dolamore never went above BC, but stayed till end of climbing - doesn't acclimatize well.

  Other leader dispute the figure for the amount of rope used, say it is grossly distorted. 


  SummitClimb dispatches:

  The October 25 team summited late in the day.

accidents:
  Carr broke ankle leaving BC; Ewert altitude sickness at BC and left 11th or 12th Oct; Pritchard suffered from altitude sickness (recovered in BC and summited)


expid: AMAD04339
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Mark Houston
sponsor: Independent team
bcdate: 2004-11-03
smtdate: 2004-11-07
termdate: 2004-11-09
campsites: BC(03/11,4600m),C1(05/11,5800m),Smt(07/11)
accidents: Only Dameron's head cold
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  Hobby got to BC and C1 first because had been guiding in the area before going to Ama Dablam. He summited from C1 on 7th and back to C1; left C1 at 2:45 am and back to C1 at 6:30 pm (on top at 12:30 pm).

  "I had the mountain to myself pretty much" except Victor Saunders and 2 climbers and 1 Sherpa on top earlier than Hobby.

  Houston and Dameron had colds and could not breathe so back to C1 and 10th to BC. No more time left to try again later. [Established, but did not occupy C2 at c6200m]


expid: AMAD04335
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Jeffrey Witt
sponsor: Independent team
countries: Germany
smtdate: 2004-10-17
smttime: 1530
termdate: 2004-10-19
campsites: ABC(11/10,5334m),C1(13/10,5700m),C2(15/10,6035m),C3(16/10,6400m),Smt(17/10)
agency: Sherpa Alpine Trekking
routememo:
  Rope fixed in the technical section in halfway between C3 and summit.


  Email from Jeff Witt - Nov 04, 2004

  We arrived in KTM on Sept 26th, stayed at the Hotel Thamel and flew to Lukla on the 29th. As we did some trekking prior to going on the mountain, we didn't get to Ama Dablam until Oct 11th - then we went straight to Advance Base Camp (our base for the climb) at 17,500 ft. We spent two nights there, moved to Camp 1 (18,700 ft) fro three nights there, moved to C1 (18,700ft) for three nights (storm came in), bumped up to C2 (19,800 ft) for a night, and then to C3 (21,000ft) on the 16th. On the morning of the 17th, Matthias Richter and I went for the summit - apparently the first bid of the season. Unfortunately Kyle Traub had a poor night from feeling pretty bad - possibly the altitude, and he and Drew Birnbaum went down to ABC that day. Matt and I pushed hard for the top, fixing some line along the way, and swapping leads with a 60 meter rope - fine weather allowed us to go on longer that we hoped, good since there was no trail or lines to follow. We summited at 3:30 pm on Oct 17th, first summit of the fall season in 2004.

  After the summit, we returned to C3 for the night, and dropped down to ABC on the 18th. Drew and Kyle met us just below C2 to congratulate us and help us carry our things down. That night we spent at ABC, and the following day (19th) we moved down to Pangboche, flying back to KTM on the 23rd and leaving on the 25th.

  In the end we managed to make the mountain in a loose alpine style. It was a single push up, and we more or less free climbed all the terrain. In many cases we used fixed lines below C3 for protection, and all of us except Matt managed to use a jumar to ascent a few rock short sections (mostly to get up the steep ice/rock gully above C2). Matt never ussed the fixed lines for aid going up (we all rappelled them) and we did not use any oxygen for the climb.

  We had one Sherpa-guide on our team, Ang Lhakpa Sherpa, and he stayed at ABC for the duration of our climb. We also had to porters that helped us get our gear to ABC. From ABC above, it was just the four of us climbing. No accidents or injuries to report, short of Kyle not feeling well that day. We were all struggling a litte with the alitude, and Matt and I both had bad coughs.


expid: AMAD04333
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Steven Heim
sponsor: Mazama Ama Dablam 2004 Expedition 2004
countries: France
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2004-10-17
smtdate: 2004-10-29
termdate: 2004-11-03
campsites: BC(17/10,4694m),ABC(20/10,5425m),C1(22/10,5791m),C2(24/10,6035m),C3(27/10,6218m),Smt(29,31/10)
agency: Iceland Trekking (Tendi)
routememo:
  Oct 29: Cosgriff and Smith left C3 at 10:30 hours, summited at 14:30 hours, stayed about 15/20 minutes, descended to C3 at 17:00 hours. 

  Oct 31: Byrne and Mrs Miller left C3 at 10:30 hours, summited at 15:00 hours, stayed on summit about 45 minutes, descended to C3 at 17:00 hours. On that day two other persons were on summit before them and two after. 

  Weather was good on both summit days, but it wasd very cold, little windy.

  Mr Campbell suffered from pulmonary edema while at ABC on 23rd or 24th; rest of the days he stayed in BC.

  Miss De Vis spent one night in C1 on 20th, suffered from headache and vomitting; rest of the time remained at BC. 

  Heim went up to C1, could not adapt the altitude, remained at BC. 

  Youngman climbed up to C1 on 25th; was exhausted due to altitude and remained at BC.

  H. Campbell suffered from bronchitis while at ABC, left BC for KTM on Oct 21


expid: AMAD04337
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Markus Gschwendt, Paul Schweizer
sponsor: Independent team
countries: Austria
bcdate: 2004-11-15
smtdate: 2004-11-20
termdate: 2004-11-21
othersmts: Climbed Pumori (PUMO-043-06)
campsites: BC(15/11,4000m),ABC(16/11,5600m),C1(17/11,6100m),C2(19/11,6400m),Smt(20/11)
agency: None
primid: PUMO04306
routememo:
  From Pumori climb, went to Pheriche to rest, met USA Ama Dablam team leader Gary Scott who said they could climb with his group; he promised to put them on his permit but he did not.


  Paul Schweizer (by email) - 7 Dec 2004 

  Got a late start on 16 Nov and were carrying quite heavy loads so decided to stop at the standard ABC (5600m). Arrived at C1 on 17 Nov. There was bad weather on 18 Nov (snowed 3 or 4 inches), so stayed in C1. Ascended to C2 on the 19th.

  Summited on 20 Nov and were back in base on the 21st (from C2), then went down to Pangboche on th 21st.


  Paul Schweizer (by email) - 2 Dec 2004

  The circumstances behind our ascent of Ama Dablam are a little more complicated and require some elaboration. After Pumori, we went down to Pheriche to rest awhile, and there we encountered the leader of a commerical American climbing group that was acclimatizing for Ama Dablam.

  Several members of the group had gotten sick and returned, so the leader assured us it would be no problem if we paid him a fee and he included us on his peak permit (presumably using satellite phone to contack KTM). This seemed like a very good idea to us, so we paid the agreed fee and went to BC on 15 Nov. Markus, Florian and I then summited Ama Dablam on 20 Nov from C2.

  We had agreed to meet the American party in BC on the evening of 21 Nov, because that was scheduled to be their last night be returning. So we descended from C2 to BC on the 21st, and we were quite surprised to find that the American group had already decamped, leaving us with no evidence of being on any permit, nor with any collaboration to back our claim to be part of their group. We were immediately approached by a hostile LO from another expedition who demanded our names, didn't believe anything we said, and threatened that we wouldn't be allowed to return to our home countries. So we left immediately for Pangboche that same evening. Caught up with the American group the following day in Namche. Upon hearing our story, the leader became quite worried, said he couldn't really do anything for us, and he returned our money. His advice was to try and leave the country as soon as possible. But it wasn't quite so simple for him to wash his hands of the situation, since we'd already told the hostile LO that we were on the American permit. Anyway, we proceeded to Kathmandu not knowing what would happen. At least they didn't stop us at the park entrance, though already at the domestic airport people were looking for us.

  This was all extremely nerve-wracking, not knowing who to believe, with people hatching plots in the background, and visions of being arrested in our KTM hotel or at the airport. Finally we were approached and presented with a 'solution.' Apparently the trekking agent of the American group had had his $2000 rubbish deposit confiscated because of the LO's official complaint about us (what did our ascent have to do with rubbish?). If we paid him his deposit, then it was claimed there wouldn't be any trouble leaving the country (so who would cause the trouble - the LO/Ministry of Tourism, or just the American's trekking agent?. And what if we paid off the agent and then still got caught at the airport - then we'd pay the rubbish deposit *and* the fine. So who was taking the money in the end and who was really behind the problem? Was the trekking agent bribing to LO?). Not having many live options, we decided to pay the rubbish deposit, and it turns out we managed to leave the country with no problems at the airport.

  But in the end it is quite frustrating, first because we wouldn't have climbed the peak to begin with if we hadn't made the original deal and thought it was legitimate, and second because now we've paid a fair bit of money and the ascent still isn't officially legal.

  So will reporting it result in our being banned from the country?

  Sorry to go on at such length, but it is complicated and to me quite alien situation. Please don't hesitate to contact me if you need any additional information.


expid: AMAD04401
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Jim Williams
sponsor: Independent team on Ama Dablam
bcdate: 2004-11-27
smtdate: 2004-12-04
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2004-12-06
campsites: BC(27/11,4600m),C1(30/11,5400m),C2(02/12,5900m),C3(03/12,6400m),Smt(04/12)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  Kemmerer got to BC 27 Nov, said too cold, went to Pangboche and never slept in BC. Summit day beautifully clear, warm 360-degree view, down to C2 to sleep. Left C3 8:00 am, on top 11:30 am and returned to C2 at 5:30 pm. BC 5th.


expid: AMAD04402
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Adele Pennington
sponsor: Jagged Globe Ama Dablam Expedition 2004
countries: Australia
bcdate: 2004-11-23
smtdate: 2004-11-29
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2004-12-07
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
campsites:
  BC(23/11,4600m),ABC(26/11,5300m),C1(26/11,5700m),C2(27/11,5900m),C3(28/11,6300m),Smt(29/11,04-05/12)

routememo:
  Chard went to BC only and left 3 Dec.
  Hendry to C1 on 1 Dec and down because of chest infection.
  Huskins went halfway to C1, was mentally and physically exhausted from having just climbed Pumori and left 26 Nov.
  Triger reached C1, developed symptoms of pulmonary edema and down to BC and left 3 Dec.

  Sherpas: 
    Nima Gombu, Beding Everest X10
    Pemba Nuru, Beding, Everest 15 and 24 May 2004
    Pasang Dawa, aka Pa Dawa, Everest X5, Lhotse X1, Cho Oyu X3


expid: ANN404301
peakid: ANN4
year: 2004
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Manfred Haertl
sponsor: DAV Annapurna IV Expedition 2004
approach: Honge->Thorang La and Thorang Peak, Braga->BC via Sabje Khola
bcdate: 2004-11-18
smtdate: 2004-11-26
termdate: 2004-11-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to deep snow
othersmts: Climbed Thorung Peak (Shya Gang)
campsites: BC(18/11,3100m),ABC(19/11,4775m),C1(23/11,5400m),xxx(26/11,6000m)
agency: Om-Mane Trekking
routememo:
  BC  above Sabje Khola, Braga to BC via Sabje Khola
  ABC at bottom of SW Face of NW Ridge
  C1  on SW Face of NW Ridge.
  xxx at 6000m on SW Face of NW Ridge.

  At 5000m made depot for all equipment; from here mixed snow and ice, rock and ice from 5200m to 5400m and C1. 24th C1 to ABC. 25th to C1 and 26th Nov to high point by Hillen, Holzmann, Lazeta, Mingma and Pasang Sherpa. Above C1 snow waist deep. Only 4 hours direct sun, -25 degrees in C1. On top if had 7-10 days more time but in limited time not possible to go to top. Fixed rope half-way above depot to C1 and most of route from C1 to high point. 

  Durst went to C1, Heinschke to C1 only on Annapurna IV, Haertl ABC only (was expedition organizer but promised wife to do no climbing), Schleicher and Scholz also in ABC only (throat problems), Wundersee to C1. 


expid: BARU04303
peakid: BARU
year: 2004
route1: S Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Dominique Ripoll
sponsor: Baruntse 2004 Expedition
ascent1: 66th
countries: Belgium
approach: Lukla->Pangkongma->Tangnag->Khare
bcdate: 2004-10-22
smtdate: 2004-10-30
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2004-11-04
campsites: BC(22/10,5400m),C1(24/10,6100m),Smt(30/10)
agency: Tip & Top Trekking
routememo:
  BC at usual camp site
  C1 at West Col
  C2 at flat place before the ridge.

  Oct 30: Aubertin, Francois and Plenier left C2 at 06:00 hours, summited at 12:00 hours, BC at 17:00 hours.

  Nov 02: Second team attempt - Gentil, Miss Grepillat, Miss Millet and Ripoll climbed up to C1 on 02. But due to high wind, returned back to BC on 03.

  Geraldine Grepillat climbed up to C1 and gave up. The summit day weather was good. Little windy and summit was cloudy. There were no other expeditions on that day. The expedition returned to KTM on Nov 10 and will leave on 12th.

accidents:
  Candelier got altitude sickness (headache, not severe, but decided to leave); left BC on 23rd, arrived KTM on 30th


expid: BARU04304
peakid: BARU
year: 2004
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Joerg Rauschenberger
sponsor: Heeres Bergtienlires Expedition Baruntse 2004
ascent1: 63rd,65th,67th
bcdate: 2004-10-17
smtdate: 2004-10-27
termdate: 2004-11-03
campsites: BC(17/10,5400m),C1(21/10,6150m),Smt(27,29,31/10)
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC at new lake west of West Col (normal site)
  C1 at 100m below West Col on east side.

  Wanted to make a C2 at foot of East Ridge on 22nd but very windy so down to BC to rest. Decided not to have a C2. Rauschenberger and Keck returned to C1 on 25th. 26th for summit, but Keck not feeling well and turned back at 7000m, Rauschenberger went to 7500m then technical climbing and needed rope for descent; both to BC that day. Also 26th Marte and Pflugmacher to BC same day.

  30th Rauschenberger, Marte and Keck to C1 but Keck turned back that day from C1 because of cough. 31st Rauschenberger and Marte to top and back to C1 because Marte very tired and very slow in descent; 1st Nov to BC.

  Kaiser had altitude problem and left BC 19th Oct - did not climb.


expid: BARU04305
peakid: BARU
year: 2004
route1: SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Fabien Ibarra
sponsor: Terres d'Adventure Baruntse 2004
ascent1: 64th
approach: Lukla->Tangnag->Dikkhare
bcdate: 2004-10-19
smtdate: 2004-10-28
smttime: 1110
termdate: 2004-10-30
campsites: BC(19/10,5400m),C1(23/10,6100m,C2(27/10,6440m),Smt(28/10)
agency: Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
routememo:
  Oct 28: Seven members and two Sherpas left C2 at 06:00 hours (Alejandro, Giraudon, Gourmelon, Griot, Guillou (Ms), Ibarra, Joncheres (Ms), Sirdar Nima Nuru and other Nima Nuru Sherpa). Ibarra, Gourmelon, Joncheres and the two Sherpas reached summit at 11:10 hours, stayed about 20 minutes, C2 at 13:30 hours, and BC at 18:60 hours. Alejandro had to turn back to BC from 6650m due to sore throat - felt difficulty in breathing. Giraudon felt very cold - his fingers got cold and decided to turn back from 6500m to BC. Griot was very slow and turned back from 7000m (at about 11:45 hours). Ms Guillou felt very cold and turned back from 6650m. 

  Summit day weather was partly cloudy, not much wind. Ama Dablam side was clear. Everest side was cloudy. West side was clear and east side was cloudy. On the 27th one or the two Germans got to summit. On the 29th three Germans got to summit.

  Mrs Massia Hoen climbed up to 5800m on 21st, suffered from breathing problem maybe due to altitude. She stayed in BC for rest of the time. 

  The expedition team returned to KTM on Nov 4 and seven members will leave in the afternoon of Nov 6. Ms Joncheres leaves on Nov 7.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Sirdar Nima Nuru Sherpa from Choplung
    Nima Nuru Sherpa (according to Ibarra - 3 times Everest summit and once Cho Oyu)
    Phurba Karma Sherpa


expid: BARU04306
peakid: BARU
year: 2004
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Meinhard Van de Reep, Reinhard Haster
sponsor: Dutch Baruntse Expedition 2004
ascent1: 62nd
approach: Barun La->Makalu BC->Sherpani Col->West Col
bcdate: 2004-10-04
smtdate: 2004-10-12
smttime: 0815
termdate: 2004-10-14
campsites: BC(04/10,5450m),C1(05/10,6100m),C2(07/10,6450m),Smt(12/10)
accidents: Porter died from pulmonary edema enroute to BC after crossing Sherpani and West Cols
agency: Iceland Trekking (Tendi)
routememo:
  BC near lake west of West Col
  C1 at West Col
  C2 at foot of SE Ridge.

  1st summit attempt [on Oct 8] by Erdman and Van Hoek for C2 at 2:00 am on to 7000m BC at 5500m near lake west of West Col. Too dangerous without fixed rope to go higher in deep snow, which they had used a lot of energy to make trail, and back to C2 and down to BC (Erdman and Van Hoek to C1 that night, both exhausted).

  2nd summit attempt [on Oct 11] by Roos, Groenveld, Van den Broek, Van Rooijen, Schielen, Haster and 3 Sherpas; left C2 at 1:00 am, got to about 7000m, same problem that confronted first party and all down to C1 at different times. Now Roos had discovered both hands (fingers) badly frostbitten, evacuated from BC on 11th (fingers frostbitten because mittens very big and had to take them off to use hands; toes slightly frostbitten too). 

  3rd summit bid from C2 about 12 Oct: Erdman, Groenveld, Haster (turned around 6750m, tired), Schielen (to 7000m, not well), Van den Broek, Van Hoek, Van Rooijen and 3 Sherpas, Salon, Dawa and Santa.

  Summit party left C2 at 4:00 am, on 12th Erdman, Groenveld, Van den Broek, Van Hoek, Schieler and Van Rooijen, Dawa, Dawa "Salon" and Santa Gurung. Van Rooijen turned back at 6500m from throat problem, Schielen at 7000m tired, rest of party to top at 7:50 am to 8:15 am. 

  One difficult steep section between 7000m to 7150m. Tomas fixed rope from BC to North Col (150m) from C2 to top (300m). Summiters to C1 and 1 member to BC; member to BC was Erdman, who skied from fore-summit at 6900m to 5600m (with one break in C1 for tea); had reached summit at 7:50 am and in BC about 2:00 pm. Now climb finish since team successful.

  Van de Reep and Liefers left exepdition after death of porter Pasang Sherpa who died from acute pulmonary edema while descending to base camp after crossing Sherpani Col and West Col.


expid: DORJ04301
peakid: DORJ
year: 2004
route1: W Ridge
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Matej Meglic
sponsor: Nepalese Slovenian Dorje Lhakpa Expedition
approach: Langtang Khola->Langshisa Khola->Trongpaiku
bcdate: 2004-09-27
smtdate: 2004-10-15
termdate: 2004-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to snowstorm and wind
campsites: BC(27/09,4700m),C1(04/10,5300m),C2(11/10,6000m),xxx.Biv(15/10,6300m)
agency: Explore Alpine Adventure
routememo:
  BC on Langshisa Glacier moraine
  C1 slightly below beginning of West Ridge
  C2 on West Ridge
  High point on West Ridge.

  Stopped at 6300m because of snowstorm and had to make snowhole for protection. Storm came very suddenly from southwest and spent night there and 15th down to C2. 16th to C1 and 17th to BC.

  Climb abandoned because following storm came strong winds and could see from BC serious crevasses high on West Ridge. 

  Meglic and Gramc climbed only to 5800m only once on 5th Oct, then Meglic decided not possible to reach top safely and didn't want to take risks; Gramc followed his lead.

  No ropes taken to fix route, only ropes between climbers.


expid: GANC04301
peakid: GANC
year: 2004
route1: S Face intended
nation: UK
leaders: Paul Mann, Toby Haughey
sponsor: British Ganchempo Expedition
approach: Langtang Khola->Kangjin Kharke
othersmts: Attempted Naya Khanga
accidents: Mann's illness
agency: High Country Trekking
routememo:
  Never reached Gangchempo BC and did no climbing except on trekking peak, Naya Khanga.

  Plan was to acclimatize on Naya Khanga (Ganjala Chuli) and then climb Ganchempo but Pemba Gyalzen, who had another commitment and had to leave advised not enough time to do both mountains, so aimed at Ganchempo. 

  Went east along Langtang Khola to Kangjin Kharka/Kwangjin Gompa, crossed to south side of khola and on east to Pangrima, where Mann started getting ill (altitude sickness); here stopped and Mann and Haughey crossed river while Pemba Gyalzen went up valley to the south, gained 200m and judged to take 2 days to BC 500m above Pangrima so no time for that; same day 17 Nov 2 members returned to Kangjin Kharka where Pemba Gyalzen thought Ganchempo impossible to climb its South Face and glacier below covered with snow meant crevasses in glacier would be hidden and face dangerous from avalanching. Members had underestimated the mountain; would take 10 days and fixed ropes. 

  19th decided had to acclimatize so climbed behind Kangjin Kharka to 4700m and then go Naya Kanga. 20th Mann had not slept well and bad throat and left expedition. Haughey and Pemba moved BC except to base of Nura Khangde at 4100m north-northwest of mountain. 22nd up from high camp and nearly summited 6 hours later and 4 hours later to high camp; had climbed NE Ridge and stopped 10m below summit because ridge now very narrow knife edge with dangerous cornices.

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Gyalzen (Cho Oyu X2 and Everest X4)


expid: HIML04304
peakid: HIML
year: 2004
route1: W Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Alexia Zuberer
sponsor: Himlung 2004
countries: Switzerland
approach: Phu
bcdate: 2004-10-09
smtdate: 2004-10-19
termdate: 2004-10-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to feet extremely cold
campsites: BC(09/10,4850m),C1(11/10,5600m),C2(17/10,6000m),C3(18/10,6350m),xxx(19/10,6800m)
agency: Churen Himal Treks
routememo:
  C1 at small plateau before ridge with serac begins
  C2 at shoulder
  C3 at bottom of first summit ridge.

  Put C2 lower than used 6200m because of deep snow. C2 not occupied before 17th because of snowfalling. Now only 5 members. Bondetti, Brun, Chevalier, Durrand and Segla had to return to work and left expedition 16th. C2 placed on a shoulder leading to sharp ridge under seracs, which was not a safe place but a good place for carrying. Summit party of 4 members and 3 Nepalese left C3 but 7:00 am after there was at last a little sunshine but wind was strong. All stopped at 6800m at between 9:30 am and 10:00 am because feet getting extremely cold and went down to C1 to sleep. To BC on 20th. No more summit bids because no time left for them on right schedule.

  Nepalis: 
    Mulal Gurung of Churen Himal Trekking
    Pasang Sherpa, 28
    Ang Pasang Sherpa, 36


expid: HIML04305
peakid: HIML
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Francois Birraux
sponsor: Chablais Himlung Himal 2004
ascent1: 17th
approach: Besisahar->Jagat->Dharapani->Koto->Kyang->Phu
bcdate: 2004-10-30
smtdate: 2004-11-03
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2004-11-05
campsites: BC(30/10,4800m),C1(01/11,5300m),C2(02/11,6200m),Smt(03/11)
agency: Nomad Expeditions
routememo:
  C2 established but not used.

  Nov 03 Birraux, Verdier and Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa left C1 at 02:00 hours, summited at 11:00 hours, - spent about 10 minutes on top, back to C1 at 15:00 hours; then to BC at 16:30 hours. Birraux turned back from first summit about 6500m where he reached at about 08:00 hours. Birraux was exhausted and gave up climbing. Weather was very good - no wind. 

  Blanc and Buttay climbed up to C1 one time and remained at BC rest of the time. For them that was enough. They said that it was very cold.


expid: JANK04301
peakid: JANK
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Romania
leaders: Constantin Lacatusu
sponsor: Romanian Janak First Ascent Expedition
approach: Ghunsa->Lhonak
bcdate: 2004-10-21
smtdate: 2004-11-11
termdate: 2004-11-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to difficult and dangerous seracs area
campsites: BC((21/10,4800m),ABC(24/10,5200m),C1(28/10,5500m),C2(01/11,5750m),C3(10/11,6200m),xxx(11/11,6500m)
accidents: Amzaroiu bad lung infection; BC only and left 24 Oct
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at junction of Lhonak and Broken Glacier
  ABC at moraine in right side of Chhyatsunda Glacier
  C1  at moraine on right side of glacier below Drohmo
  C2  at 5750m on ice of glacier (near point 5678m on HMG map)
  C3  at bottom of rock towers.

  Had to fix rope at start of Chhyatsunda Glacier to cross gorges into Glacier for porters. Had made recce up Lhonak Glacier into Chijima Glacier of HMG map on 22nd Oct but saw ridge approach too long.  Took lot of time to eastablish ABC because only 2 members. C3 on mixed rock and ice (alternating rock and ice) at base of rock tower south of point 6987m HMG map on Tibetan border. 11th Nov summit attempt. Had fixed ropes from 6000m to 6200m on 4 Nov, then down to BC to rest and back to C3 on 10th. 11th Nov both members climbed right side of rock tower all day in alpine style to 6500m to serac area with powder snow which was impossible to fix, so down to C3 after dark. 12th tried left side of rock tower below overhanging seracs but again powder snow - got to 6400m and again back to C3. 12th to C2 and 14th climbed north faces of a peak 6095m south-southwest of Janak up broken ice glacier and then deep (1.5m) snow and back to C2. That night 4:00 am seracs avalanched off west side of Janak. Blast damaged tent and all day west and southwest side of Janak avalanching, so decided to leave and down to BC on 15th. 20th from BC north to junction of Lhonak and Chijima Glaciers and climbed west peak of a mountain with 2 peaks; west peak 6196m on HMG map climbed its south face of rock then ice to SW Ridge to summit on ice. At night Lhonak village at 1:00 am of 21st. Sherpas never went higher than C1, not to smaller peaks at all.

  "1st part of Janak was technical and we climbed it; 2nd half dangerous and we didn't climb that." Despite seracs would be possible to climb with more manpower and rope. Technical part "very nice." Both members "would like to come back and finish what we started."


expid: KGUR04301
peakid: KGUR
year: 2004
route1: SW Face-NW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Olivier Ruyer
sponsor: French Family Kang Guru Expedition 2004
ascent1: 25th
approach: Marshyangdi->Koto->Nau Khola->Mata
bcdate: 2004-10-30
smtdate: 2004-11-06
termdate: 2004-11-08
campsites: BC(30/10,4200m),C1(01/11,5400m),C2(05/11,6500m),Smt(06/11)
agency: Parbat Kailash Adventures Treks
routememo:
  BC east of Meta
  C2 at top of rock, start of snow.

  Summiters slept in C2 from top and BC on 7th. Sherpas didn't know where places were suitable to put camps and Ruyer and Mingma had to make recce to find them. Not difficult. Problem was snow was melting in midway; bridges of snow over crevasses were very thin. Fixed rope on glacier between C1 and C2 to make it easier to carry backpack.

  Dumontier stayed in BC throughout climb - wasn't well.


expid: KTEG04301
peakid: KTEG
year: 2004
route1: SE Face intended
nation: France
leaders: Laurent Lukie
sponsor: Kangtega 2004
approach: Lukla->Tangnag->Khare->Hinku Glacier
bcdate: 2004-10-30
smtdate: 2004-10-31
termdate: 2004-11-02
termnote: Abandoned at 5200m due to inability to reach a good permanent BC site
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak on 1 Nov
campsites: TempBC(30/10),xxx(5200m)
agency: Adventure 6000
routememo:
  Temporary BC at foot (second of) Hinku Glacier.

  From BC went north along west side Hinku Glacier. From BC all 4 members went to Mera Peak and all reached summit with Ang Norbu Sherpa on 1 Nov at 6:00 am and back to BC same day. On 31st all members and Ang Norbu went north from BC along Hinku Glaciers west side and went into Hinku Glacier to 5200m looking for site of "real" BC for Kangtega attempt, but at 5200m, glacier too difficult for porters and beyond into Kangtega Glacier, where intended to go, was the Khumbu Icefall, dry ice, many seracs and crevasses. So abandoned idea of trying to climb Kangtega by SE Face and went back to Lukla and went trekking to Gokyo, etc. after Mera Peak ascent.


expid: KTEG04302
peakid: KTEG
year: 2004
route1: NE Face-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Richard Cross
sponsor: Eigerwand of the Khumbu Expedition
bcdate: 2004-11-09
smtdate: 2004-11-10
termdate: 2004-11-11
termnote: Did no climbing
campsites: TempBC(09/11,4600m),xxx(10/11,5200m)
accidents: Both members chest infection
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Trekked to Kalapattar first, then to Pangboche BC site, went into valley south of Ama Dablam, up glacial moraine to 5200m on 10th (having pitched tent in valley below Ama Dablam on 9th at 4600m). Both felt very ill with bad chest infections so returned to Pangboche some day and abandoned climb.

  Intended route was Kangtega's NE Ridge to climb 2 peaks along that ridge (not Kangtega's main summit): they are 6170m and 6077m highs according to Schneider's Shorong map, via Kangtega's NE Face.


expid: LANG04301
peakid: LANG
year: 2004
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Goetz Wiegand
sponsor: Saxony Himalayan Expedition 2004
approach: Tilman's Pass (not Col)->Langshisa Kharte->Kyanjin Gompa
bcdate: 2004-10-12
smtdate: 2004-10-20
termdate: 2004-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 5700m due to lack of time
campsites: BC(12/10,4300m),ABC(15/10,4850m),xxx(20/10,5700m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  north of Kyanjin Gampa west side of Lirung Glacier
  ABC at bottom of couloir to SE Ridge.

  Took long approach route because of trekking group with them and had to acclimatize. Lost 4 days before Tilman's Pass with heavy rains and waiting for a guide for rest of approach route. From ABC started up couloirs which fixed completely in 3 days because very steep and a lot of snow. Fixed to ridge, followed ridge to 5700m, then stopped because not enough time left. Needed to fix 800-1000m above rope in 6 days. Climb extremely hard and would need to descend for rests and if heavy snowfall came in couloir "would have to run for our lives because of avalanches of ice blocks." Were wooried about being hit by small pieces of ice and were wearing helmets - was right decision. After reaching basecamp on 21st heavy snowfall began. Route is very steep, very technical and very dangerous. "A really good mountain, but dangerous" said Meutzner.


expid: PASA04301
peakid: PASA
year: 2004
route1: SE Face-S Ridge
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Urban Golob, Uros Samec
sponsor: Slovenian Nangpai Gosum Expedition
ascent1: 5th
approach: Thami, north to Arye
bcdate: 2004-10-03
smtdate: 2004-10-24
smttime: 0905
termdate: 2004-10-25
othersmts: Climbed Dzasampatse (DZAS-043-01)
campsites: BC(03/10,5100m),ABC(05/10,5500m),C1(22/10,6650m),Smt(24/10)
accidents: Urban Golob pneumonia; Samec frostbite
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC  at Sumnag Glacier/Lusuma Glacier
  ABC at foot of SE Face
  C1  at top of face at start of S Ridge.

  Acclimatized on SE Face three times before making summit push on 22nd Oct by Blagus, Krmelj and Samec at 1:00 am; to the S Ridge at 3 pm and pitched tent there. 23rd started at 10:00 am to recce ridge to 6800m to see whether this route possible and returned to C1. 24th at 1:00 am from C1 and 9:05 am on top. Had fixed 2 pitches of rope at bottom of wall in case no snow on descent, but actually there was no snow and did not use rope. Technically difficult in mid-section of face above big snowfield on rock and thin ice leading to couloir of 60 degrees leading to ridge - avalanche slope of whole wall was 60-70 degrees. 1st part of ridge also problem: narrow snow ridge, with one section badly corniced. Ridge's first sector 90 degrees to small plateau and then 60 degrees. From this first plateau to second and bigger plateau at 7000m not so difficult or dangerous and from there on to top not difficult at all. 24th direct from top to ABC at 8:00 pm. Climb finished. 

  Urban Golob got pneumonia on 6th Oct in ABC, left for Namche and couldn't return to mountain. Samec 2 frostbitten toes during climb.


expid: PUMO04305
peakid: PUMO
year: 2004
route1: SE Face-E Col-E Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Markus Prechtl
sponsor: German and Austrian Pumori Expedition
ascent1: 147
countries: Austria
bcdate: 2004-10-24
smtdate: 2004-11-05
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2004-11-07
othersmts: Climbed Ama Dablam by Kurz and Ang Pasang (AMAD-043-23)
campsites: BC(24/10,5340m),ABC(26/10,5800m),C1(02/11,6500m),Smt(05/11)
agency: Himalayan High Country Treks
routememo:
  BC  above Gorak Shep near lake
  ABC at beginning of ice on small ridge
  C1  at crevasse in middle of ice on SE Face.

  On Nov 5 Kastner, Kurz and Ang Pasang left C1 at 8:00 am waiting for sun and warmth in cold windy weather, climbed to col and up to top via East Ridge, on top at 1:00 pm, returned to C1 at 4:00 pm. Next day to BC. 

  On 3 Nov Baumann-Vogl, Hirschbichler, Prechtl, Zopf left C1 for top at 5:00 am, got to col at 6600m, too cold and windy so down from here to BC same day; might have gotten frostbite in -30 degrees cold and left BC 5 Nov.

  Members left expedition: 
    Aicher on 29 Oct - several mild sicknesses.
    Altmannshofer on 28 Oct - stomach troubles.
    Haseknopf on 28 Oct - altitude sickness.
    Baumann-Vogl, Hirschbbichler and Zopf on 5 Nov - their climb finished.


expid: PUMO04307
peakid: PUMO
year: 2004
route1: S Ridge from W (to 6185m)
route2: SE Face-S Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Daniel Silbernagel
sponsor: Swiss Pumori Expedition
ascent2: 148
bcdate: 2004-10-23
smtdate: 2004-11-05
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2004-11-07
campsites: BC(23/10,5300m),BC.2(31/10,5800m),C1(04/11,6300m),Smt(05/11)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  BC  northwest near a lake
  2nd BC at nature site northeast of Kalapattar near another lake
  C1  on South Face.

  1st attempted to reach South Ridge from northwest of Kalapattar up to ridge: reached ridge and went along it westward to point 6185 where smaller ridge joins from west by Guldenfels, Iten, Kobel and Silbernagel on 27th so back to BC. Because snow conditions bad with many cornices in left and right, abandoned this approaches and left this BC on 29th-31st and set up new BC at normal site for SE Face very low on face but 5630m; slept there and 2 Nov to 2nd BC (this by all members). 5th all started for top; but Werffeli turned back at about 6350m slightly sick and down to BC while other 6 to top. Left C1 to go up at 8:00 am and on top at 2:30 pm and down to C1 at 5:30 pm. 

  Not difficult above deep snow get less deep at 6600m; no avalanching, not very cold and wind.


expid: PUMO04306
peakid: PUMO
year: 2004
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Markus Gschwendt, Paul Schweizer
sponsor: Independent team on Pumori (David Kenyon permit)
ascent1: 149
countries: UK
bcdate: 2004-10-27
smtdate: 2004-11-06
termdate: 2004-11-10
othersmts: Climbed Ama Dablam (AMAD-043-26)
campsites: BC(27/10,5300m),ABC(02/11,5700m),C1(04/11,6300m),Smt(06/11)
agency: None
routememo:
  Email to Miss Hawley from Paul Schweizer - Dec 8, 2004

  EAH: Dave Kenyon said his party climbed the South Face of Pumori. You must have been on the normal route of SE Face to East Ridge, which other teams this autumn successfully climbed.

  PS: Yes, we climbed the normal route [on Pumori], but I'm pretty sure that Dave Kenyon's group did as well, because the fixed ropes on the route were allegedly put up by them, and then left in place at the request of the German expedition.

  EAH: I said I was interested to know about them - I always want to know about climbers -- and he [the LO] told me he had met two Austrians and a Briton who claimed to have been out of Scotts' permit but had no proof. He asked to see their passports but was told they left their documents at Lukla - which he thought was unlikely to be true. He obtained their names on a piece of paper -- which typically did not have in his possession just then but would tell their names to me some other time -- but he felt they had given fictitious ones.

  PS: We gave him our real names (at that point we still hoped that Gary Scott's agreement might mean something) but nothing else - no passport numbers.

  EAH: I said I had heard from another Ama Dablam climber that Scott had made a promise to some people who were on the mountain when he was there, and I emphasized to the official [the LO] that these people were clearly innocent of willful wrong-doing. He didn't sound as though he had any intention of pursuing the matter, and I won't remind him of it by seeking the names. Let's hope that's the end of the matter, but I'll let you know if he raises it again.

  PS: Well, thanks very much for your good word on our behalf - hopefully the matter will rest there. I thought that Nepal was a wonderful country, and would certainly like to be allowed to return.


  Email to Miss Hawley from Paul Schweizer - Dec 6, 2004

  EAH: What was the alitude of your base camp:

  PS: It was the muddy lake at 5300m. But we didn't have a cook, mess tent, etc, so we didn't this camp much (only stayed there a couple of nights) - instead we used the Himalayan Lodge in Gorak Shep as our de facto base camp.

  EAH: Was your high camp the only camp you pitched above base?

  PS: No, we also used the standard ABC at 5700m.

  EAH: What was its altitude, where was it on the mountain, and on what date did you first occupy it?

  PS: Our high camp was at 6300m, several hundreds meters below the standard Camp 2. We first carried a load of equipment there from ABC on 31 Oct, then descended to Gorak Shep and rested for a couple of days, then spent a night at ABC and then first slept at high camp on 4 Nov. We we hoping to summit on 5 Nov but Markus wasn't feeling good so we waited a day.

  EAH: From it you summited on 6 Nov. When did you leave base to go to Pheriche?

  PS: We descended from high camp high to Gorak Shep on 7th Nov. Then on 9 Nov we returned with 3 porters and cleared from ABC and BC and returned to Gorak Shep. On 10 Nov we went to Pheriche.


expid: AMAD04340
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Richard Reale
sponsor: Independent climber on Ama Dablam
bcdate: 2004-10-14
smtdate: 2004-10-22
termdate: 2004-10-25
campsites: BC(14/10),ABC(17/10),C1(20/10),C2(21/10),C3(21/10),Smt(22/10)
agency: Mountain Madness (Kili)
routememo:
  After arrival at BC, rested 2 days. Then carried to ABC and back down to BC same day. BC to C1 20 Oct, C1 to C3 21 Oct leaving "shoes and stuff" at C2. Slept in C3 then to top with Lhakpa Chhiri of Lukla and down to C2 same day. Down to ABC on 23 Oct rested there one day, then down to BC for one day's rest before leaving for Namche.

  Reale arrived Nepal 1 Oct and stayed in KTM with his friend Kila of Mountain Madness, his trekking agent. Returned to KTM and left Nepal on 1 Nov.


expid: AMAD04403
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Ryou Kenn-Se
sponsor: Independent team
bcdate: 2004-11-28
smtdate: 2004-12-06
termdate: 2004-12-08
campsites: BC(28/11,4600m),C1(30/11,5500m),C3(05/12,6450m),Smt(06/12)
agency: Hyecho Adventure Trekking
routememo:
  Climb difficult, mixed (technical climb) rock and ice and very strong wind. Tent in C1 blown away and in C3 tent's poles broken and tent flap blown away. Summiters slept in C3 on descent from top and BC 7 Dec.

  Lee to C1, then gave up because too much for him as he was old, so return to BC on 1 Dec and left expedition 3 Dec.


expid: AMAD04404
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Sang-Bae
sponsor: 2004 Korea Winter Himalaya Ama Dablam-Ombigaichen Expedition
bcdate: 2004-12-06
smtdate: 2004-12-18
smttime: 1315
termdate: 2005-01-03
othersmts: Climbed Ombigaichen (Kim Gil-Woo)
campsites: BC(06/12,4500m),C1(09/12,5700m),C2(11/12,5900m),C3(15/12,6200m),Smt(18,24/12)
accidents: Pemba Dorje fell; Song altitude sickness
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Summit party on 18 Dec (five members and three Sherpas) left C3 8:30 am, on top 1:15 pm and C3 to sleep 6:00 pm, in dark (with headlamps). 21 Dec party (5 members) left 8:00 am and on top 12:00 noon and C3 to sleep 3:00 pm (were faster climbers than 18th Dec party)

  On 16th Dec same 5 members as on 24th Dec team and Phurba made summit bid; left C3 8:00 am, reached 6500m, strong wind blowing so much snow, visibility very bad, so down to BC same day at 6:30 pm. 18 Dec Pemba Dorje fell into crevasse 15m, when snowbar came loose; Kim Gel-Woo pulled him out and shoulder injured, so not in 24th Dec summit party that returned BC 25th.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Dorje, Beding, Everest X3
    Phurba Tundu, 25, Beding
    Chewang Dorje, Thami, 29, Everest X5


expid: JING04301
peakid: JING
year: 2004
route1: N Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Koichi Kato
sponsor: 2004 Damodar Himal Expedition
approach: Besisahar->Chame->Nar
bcdate: 2004-10-19
smtdate: 2004-10-23
termdate: 2004-11-02
termnote: Abandoned at 5608m due to difficult knife-edge ridge
othersmts: Climbed two unnamed peaks near Jomsom Himal
campsites: BC(19/10,4600m),ABC(22/10,5200m),xxx(23/10,5608m)
achievment: 1st attempt on mountain
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Climb abandoned when on North Ridge because very narrow, knife-edged and to proceed further required fixed rope, but they had only their short climbing rope with them.

  Kato arrived in Nepal 6 Oct and left KTM for mountain 10 Oct; returned to KTM 12 Nov and left 20 Nov.

  Kato also climbed two other minor peaks:

    (1) October 26, "Namy" peak, 6084m, located south of Jomsom Himal, which 
        most likely is the same peak the Paolo Grobel's team climbed in 2003 
        under the name Thansunjiti.

    (2) October 30, "Yury" peak, 6130m, located northwest of Jomsom Himal.

  Pasang Tamang (18/9/2025)


expid: MUPK01301
peakid: MUPK
year: 2001
route1: S Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Tamotsu Ohnishi
ascent1: 1st?
approach: Lho Manthang
bcdate: 2001-10-04
smtdate: 2001-10-07
campsites: BC(04/10,4750m),ABC(05/10,5270m),C1(06/10,5617m),Smt(07/10)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Mustang Peak is 6229m high according to Nepal government map, but Ohnishi's GPS gave altitude as 6357m.

  This is different from the Mustang Himal (6195m) now on new 2014 permit list.


expid: PUMO04401
peakid: PUMO
year: 2004
route1: SE Face
nation: Russia
leaders: Vladimir Belousov
sponsor: Russian Pumori Team
bcdate: 2005-01-04
smtdate: 2005-01-14
termdate: 2005-01-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to crevasses, bad weather and lack of time
campsites: BC(04/01,5160m),C1(07/01,5700m),C1(12/01,6100m),xxx(14/01,6300m)
agency: Ang Rita Treks
routememo:
  BC at Gorak Shep
  C1 at bottom of SE Face
  C2 at top of pillar on SE Face.

  Team too weak for technical climb on South Ridge and southwest side had open crevasses and ice cover, so went to normal route on SE side. 14 Jan all members started from C2 site 6500m, but at 6300m stopped by 6m wide, deep crevasse opposite 15m higher and overhanging-crevasse. Back to ABC for more food, ice screws and ropes to cross this crevasse and others perhaps above. Then snow started falling on 15th. Down to BC, waited 2 days, weather not improved with strong cold wind and no visibility above 6000m. Left BC 18 Jan because not enough time to make ascent, which required one week. Fixed 700m between ABC and C1.


expid: AMAD04341
peakid: AMAD
year: 2004
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Denmark
leaders: Soren Ledet
bcdate: 2004-10-27
smtdate: 2004-10-30
smttime: 1147
termdate: 2004-10-31
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East (false summit) on 26 Oct
campsites: ABC(27/10,4550m),C1(28/10,5785m),C2(29/10,6300m),Smt(30/10)
agency: Sea to Summit Trekking
routememo:
  Ledet and Dharma Bahadur Rai left C3 at 8:45 am, on top at 11:47 am (Ledet) and 12:15 pm (Rai), down to C1 at 7:00 pm. "I surprised myself with the speed of our ascent. It was great fun! We carried our own tent, food, fuel, etc. for the ascent and only 'borrowed' someone else's tent on our descent at C1 because all platforms were occupied."

  Ledet arrived in Nepal 9 Oct (Hotel Radisson), flew to Lukla 13 Oct. Returned to Ktm 4 Nov and left Nepal 7 Nov.


expid: SHNW04101
peakid: SHNW
year: 2004
route1: S Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Colin Scott
sponsor: British Services Makalu Expedition
ascent1: 2nd-7th
bcdate: 2004-04-08
smtdate: 2004-05-04
termdate: 2004-05-30
othersmts: Attempted Makalu (MAKA-041-02)
campsites: BC(08/04,4800m),C1(14/04,5800m),C2(20/04,6100m),Smt(04,06-08,11,14/05)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
primid: MAKA04102
routememo:
  Pt 6682 ascents:

  All members except Boyce and both Sherpas summited via South Ridge on 4 May and in following days as they moved up and down their Makalu route to its SE Ridge. This was same route over Pt 6682 followed by Doug Scott's Makalu expedition in spring 1984.


expid: GANC71302
peakid: GANC
year: 1971
route1: S Face
nation: USA
leaders: Terry Bech
ascent1: 1st
countries: Australia
approach: Langshisa Glacier
campsites: BC(5200m),Smt(Oct/Nov)
routememo:
  Al Read - July 22, 2005 (by email)

  The first ascent of Ganchempo was in late October/early November 1971 by Terry and Cherie Bech. Jennifer Read and I were with them but I got pulmonary edema at about 17,000 feet and descended back to Langshisa with Jennifer. Jennifer and I then trekked back to Kathmandu. A week later Jennifer and I flew back with Emil Wick to pick up Terry and Cherie in Langtang.

  The four of us had trained all summer (monsoon) by hiking up Nagarjung in the Queens Forest with loads of bricks in our packs. Cherie always was at the top first - a very driven woman!

  We had intended to fly into Langtang to begin the expedition but there had been a heavy snowfall and Wick had to land in Tangmujet instead. This caused a delay in getting to Langshisa and so we moved too fast to altitude - at least for me.

  As you know, the peak was not on any Nepalese climbing permitted "list" so the mountain was not legal in any way. At the time I was as Foreign Service Officer posted to the American Embassy in Kathmandu so it was extremely inappropriate for me to attempt the peak at all --- but we were young then.

  The route was the SE Ridge or rather the east side of the South Face. The approach was from Langshisa up the west moraine of the glacier descending from Dorje Lhapka. I think it was the Langshisa Glacier but I do not have a map in front of me.


expid: AMAD05101
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Ronald Sanga
sponsor: Ronald's Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 2005-05-10
smtdate: 2005-05-15
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2005-05-17
campsites: BC(10/05,4400m),C1(12/05,5800m),C2(13/05,6000m),C3(14/05,6500m),Smt(15/05)
agency: Mountain Hikes
routememo:
  Well acclimatized from Cho Oyu, so went straight up mountain on 14 May up from C3 at 10:30 am, very late because wind and snow from 6:00 pm on 14th (flattened tent 10-15 times during night and climbers unable to stand up outside till about 9:30 am). Wind had blown falling snow away (but at BC several inches covering tents). At top: Thile at 3:00 pm, Sanga and Ang Gyalzen at 3:30 pm; slept in C3 when arrived 5:30 pm. Another wind storm (but no snow) and 16th to BC.


expid: AMAD05102
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Igor Sanzharevsky
sponsor: Sports Club 'Unit' Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-28
smtdate: 2005-05-10
smttime: 1530
termdate: 2005-05-13
campsites: BC(28/04,4700m),C1(01/05,5700m),C2(08/05,6000m),C3(09/05,6300m),Smt(10/05)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at usual campsite
  C2 at usual campsite
  C3 at usual campsite.

  All six members left C3 at 08:00 hours on May 10 for summit. Badygin was first to reach summit at 15:30 hours and last one to reach summit was Blankovsky at 16:30 hours. Rest of the members reached summit in between. Badygin spent about one hour on summit and the last one Blankovsky about ten minutes. All descended to C3 at 19:00 hours. Next day to C1. The summit day was clear sky but partly windy. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on April 18 and will leave on 20th. Bondarevych said that on April 28 one American and one Lebanese summited the mountain.


expid: AMAD05103
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Olaf Zill
sponsor: Swiss Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Switzerland
approach: Trek to Everest BC->Kalapattar->Chhukung->Pangboche
bcdate: 2005-05-06
smtdate: 2005-05-12
termdate: 2005-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to Zill's illness, bad weather and snowfall
campsites: BC(06/05,4580m),LowerC1(08/05,5370m),C1(11/05,5570m),C2(12/05,5800m),xxx(13/05,5800m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  The team returned to KTM on May 17 and left KTM on May 21. 

  Ron Sanga was on Ama Dablam at same time. Sanga said on 22 May essential problem was that without climbing Sherpas and Olaf Zill sick that left 2 women to carry loads and they were not strong enough to carry all that weight. In addition women were worried about being alone on the mountain. When they abandoned climb in bad weather, they sent kitchen staff (2 men) up on 13th to bring down their gear.

accidents:
  Zill suffered from bad infection (high fever) remained in BC all the time (he did not get well even after taking antibiotics)


expid: AMAD05104
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Larry Boersma
sponsor: International Ama Dablam
bcdate: 2005-04-14
smtdate: 2005-04-15
termdate: 2005-04-20
termnote: Abandoned at 5600m due to blood clot in leg
campsites: BC(14/04,5200m),xxx(15,16/04,5600m)
accidents: Blood clot in leg
agency: Cultural Treks (Monterosa Treks pmt)
routememo:
  On trek from Lukla to BC, one leg swelled and developed pain. After getting to BC and walking up on 15th and 16th above BC, problem remained, so telephoned wife, who consulted their doctor who said cause was either a muscle problem or possibly deep-vein thrombosis and he should come home. Left BC on 20th by helicopter to KTM and will stay here till 25th before taking long flight home to Oregon.

  Wants to come again to Ama Dablam (its an obsession), preferably in autumn season, when not so crowded.


expid: AMAD05105
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Elvio Ferigo
sponsor: Ama Dablam Expedition 2005
bcdate: 2005-04-20
smtdate: 2005-04-28
termdate: 2005-05-05
termnote: Abandoned at 5750m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(20/04,4650m),C1(28/04,5750m),xxx(28/04,5750m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  28th April weather bad and when team arrived C1 28th April found Flippini's sleeping bag gone, so spent bad night. So on 29th instead of going for C2 went down to BC. Now snowing. 

  30th went for Kalapattar but not above Gorak Shep because fog, but up Kalapattar 2nd May and to Pangboche and 3 May returned Ama Dablam BC in foggy weather. 4th May snowfalling again and decided climb finished because weather pattern of fog, then snowfall almost every afternoon. 


expid: AMAD05106
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Aaron Ratke
sponsor: Independent climber
bcdate: 2005-04-19
smtdate: 2005-04-27
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2005-05-05
campsites: BC(19/04,4800m),C1(25/04,5800m),C2(26/04,6200m),Smt(27/04),C3(27/04,6400m+),Biv(28/04)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking/Parikarma Treks
routememo:
  Left C2 at 12:30 am of 27th with his Sherpa Temba, who had been with Boersma (who left mountain), Max Chaya and Chaya's Sherpa. Reached top together at about 2:30 pm. Planned to descend to C2 but had bad breathing problem and very tired, so decided to stay that night at C3 in tent he believes was Chaya's tent. 28th night Ratke and Temba shared Ratka's sleeping bag in impromptu biv at side of trail. 29th in BC, where Ratke rested several days to recover strength.


expid: AMAD05107
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Lebanon
leaders: Maxime Chaya
sponsor: Monterosa Ama Dablam Expedition 2005
bcdate: 2005-04-15
smtdate: 2005-04-27
smttime: 1415
termdate: 2005-04-30
othersmts: Attempted Island Peak (to 6050m)
campsites: BC(15/04,4650m),C1(18/04,5700m),C2(26/04,6000m),C3(27/04),Smt(27/04)
achievment: 1st Lebanonese on mountain
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  4 climbers (Ratke, Chaya, 2 Sherpas) together left C2 at 0:35 am 27th and on top 2:15 pm and down to C3 to sleep at 5:30-6:00 pm. No wind in ascent but on top in clouds and strong wind in descent and all night in C3. 28th in unprepared biv before reaching C1 with difficult descent with ice frozen on boulders. 29th to BC after very bad night in biv.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Wandi Sherpa, 35 years old, Hatiya-7, Sankhuwasabha


expid: AMAD05109
peakid: AMAD
year: 2005
route1: NW Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Ueli Steck
sponsor: Swiss to Ama Dablam Cholatse Tawoche
approach: Dingboche->Duwo Glacier on north side
bcdate: 2005-04-29
smtdate: 2005-05-04
termdate: 2005-05-06
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to snowfall
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (3 April), Cholatse (CHOL-051-01) and Tawoche (TAWO-051-01)
campsites: BC(29/04,4700m),xxx(04/05,5900m)
agency: Royal Orchid Treks
primid: CHOL05101
routememo:
  Started climb on 3 May above seracs on NW Face to biv in snowhole at 5650m. 4 May up to 5900m. Snowfalling from 3rd afternoon, in morning not in afternoon. Again snowfalling and now avalanching on him but did no harm. "If you climb there is no way" to continue in such condition, so down BC on 4th. 5th heavy snowfall which would have prevented descent that day. Too tired now to make another attempt.


expid: ANN105101
peakid: ANN1
year: 2005
route1: N Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Mario Merelli
sponsor: Annapurna I
ascent1: 43rd w/USA
bcdate: 2005-03-23
smtdate: 2005-05-12
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2005-05-16
campsites: BC(23/03,4200m),C1(27/03,5050m),C2(31/03,5600m),C3(24/04,6200m),C4(25/04,6400m),Smt(12/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C4 at C3 tent site.

  Between 31 March and 23 April bad weather much snowfall and avalanching but C2 pitched under protective serac. Again bad weather between 25 Apr and 7 May. 2 May up from BC, Mario, Mario and Gobbi to C2. 9 May Silvio and Daniele from BC to C3 while 2 Marios and Gobbi up to C3 with them. Stayed in C3 because strong wind on 10 and 11 May. 12 May 3:00 am started for top by 2 Marios, Daniele and Silvio with Viesturs and Gustafsson. 4:30 am Mondinelli down at 7200m because feet cold; others to top in a little wind and clear and red sunrise. Bernasconi with Viesturs and Gustafsson in C3 at 10:00 pm; 2 Marios in fog and snowfall could not see route so bived at 7700m (very cold) at 8:30 pm; to 5:30 am of 13th and BC on 13th by all members. 2 Marios and Daniele left BC by helicopter 16 May (helicopter to bring snow samples from C1, C2 and 5900m for scientific analysis). 

  Mondinelli and Gobbi up from C2 on 16th with Abele Blanc and 3 others, Lock, Mace and Cusik for summit bid on 18 May to 20 May: 18th summit bid stopped that day where fatal avalanche struck Blanc's summit party; Gobbi reached 6300m and Mondinelli on 6250m. Climb finished.


expid: ANN105102
peakid: ANN1
year: 2005
route1: N Face (French route)
nation: USA
leaders: Ed Viesturs
sponsor: Two Americans and a Finn to Annapurna I and Cho Oyu
ascent1: 43rd w/Italy
countries: Finland
bcdate: 2005-04-30
smtdate: 2005-05-12
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2005-05-14
othersmts: Climbed Cho Oyu (CHOY-051-01)
campsites: BC(30/04,4300m),C2(08/05,5500m),C3(09/05,6900m),Smt(12/05)
accidents: Gustaffson frostnipped toes
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  BC lower than normal route
  C2 at North Face
  C3 at North Face in tent moved from C2.

  Chin to C2 only. Viesturs had told him that because of his altitude sickness near Cho Oyu; he would have to go no higher than C2 and he had agreed. Viesturs had had to sacrifice his own summit bid to escort Chin down when the Chin got sick. 

  Viesturs and Gustafsson waited in C3 3 days waiting for wind to drop; now had half of a gas cannister left and little food left and afternoon of 11th wind dropped, so on 12th 3:00 am left for top (with 4 Italians, minus Mondinelli, Masao and Damuda). On top 2:00 pm (with 3 Italians, minus Mondinelli). Near top went up a small gully to summit ridge. Ridge has numerous bumps and to be sure got to highest which was farthest west; when reached in and looked back realized it was highest. Slept in C2 at 10:00 pm. Now weather bad in cloud and snow so had trouble finding route down in dark and in snow storm, so waited hours till 9:00 pm. Viestur's feet felt fixed rope (were at about 7000m). "Annapurna didn't let us go, she just held on," says Viesturs. All way to BC next day; during night heavy snowfall in places waist deep snow; whiteout when approached C1 so waited in place one hour till could see way amongst crevassed. Started from C3 at 9:30 am and got to BC 6:00 pm: waiting for them about 4500m were Chin and 2 Italians with juice and beer. Had fixed no ropes but Merelli's team fixed much rope and invited Viesturs and Gustafsson use ropes with them. After each snowfall minor avalanching - "were quiet" not the visual big seracs falling constantly.

  When he reached summit, his 14th 8000er, Viesturs felt a dream come true. "I had my doubts that I'd ever get there because of our conservatism and its dangerous avalanching." He's not sure weather he is 14th person to summit all 8000ers but guesses he's probably 7th or 8th without any oxygen. What next? Now that he has the 8000ers out of the way, perhaps Antarctica, perhaps smaller Nepalese mountains, no definite plans.


expid: ANN105104
peakid: ANN1
year: 2005
route1: N Face
nation: Australia
leaders: Andrew Lock
sponsor: Independent climber on Annapurna I
approach: Jomsom->Lete->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-30
smtdate: 2005-05-18
termdate: 2005-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to fact that he had nobody to climb with
campsites: BC(30/04,4200m),C1(03/05,5000m),C2(08/05,5600m),xxx(18/05,6100m)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  Andrew was climbing with Charlie Mace and Brendan Cusik when the avalanche struck. They were left of the gully and nobody got hurt. Mace and Cusik decided to abandon the climb, after the avalanche, and even though Andrew wanted to continue to climb, he left the mountain with the others as he did not want to climb on his own.


expid: ANN105106
peakid: ANN1
year: 2005
route1: N Face (French route)
nation: Italy
leaders: Abele Blanc
sponsor: Italian Annapurna I Expedition
approach: By air to Jomsom->Lete to pass (deep snow); trek to PKR, chopper to BC
bcdate: 2005-04-25
smtdate: 2005-05-18
termdate: 2005-05-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to fatal avalanche
campsites: BC(25/04,4200m),C1(02/05,5050m),C2(03/05,5600m),xxx(18/05,6300m)
accidents: Kuntner, Blanc, Barmasse and Andres hit by avalanche (Kuntner killed)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  High point at North Face sides of couloir

  4 May to BC to rest: now snowfall kept him in BC till 16 May to C2. 17 May strong wind. 18 May avalanche. 18 May 5:00 am up to make C3 for summit bid 19 May. All 5 members up from C2 and from Merelli team (Mondinelli and Colli) plus Lock and 2 Americans (Mace and Cusik) at 8:30 am at wide shallow couloir at 6300m and avalanche of ice blocks, some of which were 3 meters wide, hit Blanc, Kuntner, Barmasse and Andres and carried them down 500m linear meters in ice and its blast (150 vertical meters down). Blanc side of his head hit and he went into speechless shock and no memory of avalanche; started speaking only night of 19th in Teaching Hospital and 2 broken ribs. Kuntner small head wound and internal injuries and died in C2 at 9:00 am, brought there by others who not injured; died at 10:00 am; Barmasse big cut from mouth to chin and broken nose; Andres left shoulder slightly dislocated. Helicopter came at 3:20 pm and evacuated all living members and Kuntner's body for burial at home. This was first avalanche here this month.


expid: ANN105105
peakid: ANN1
year: 2005
route1: S Face (Bonington route mostly)
nation: Poland
leaders: Piotr Pustelnik
sponsor: Annapurna South Face Expedition
countries: Slovakia
approach: Bus to Nayapul; up Modi Khola to S Annapurna Glacier
bcdate: 2005-03-31
smtdate: 2005-05-06
termdate: 2005-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to snow and tiredness
campsites: BC(31/03,4200m),ABC(04/04,4950m),C1(05/04,6100m),C2(05/05,6950m),xxx(06/05,7400m)
accidents: Strba gastrointestinal problems; Miotk altitude problem
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at moraine right side of Annapurna Glacier
  ABC at bottom of South Face (6 hours from BC)
  C1 at South Face
  C2 at South Face
  High point on South Face.

  Between 1 May and 5 May down to ABC, up to C1, fixing route to C2 and down to C1 and up and down between C1 and C2. Occupied C2 on 5 May. Had frequent light snowfall which avalanched but only "dust" avalanches causing no harm. Had two heavy snowfalls dumping 40-70 cm of snow and at end of expedition (10-15 May) big snow blocks avalanched at night and none touched camp. C2 established 5 May by Miotk, Morawski and Pustelnik. 6 May started fixing route to C3: got to 7400m where at the "The Cracks" where rocks overhang and rope absolutely necessary. 7 May down to ABC to rest. Up from BC 10 May by all 4 climbing members and both Sherpas, Nawang Tenzing and Rita Dorje to ABC. From ABC 11 May 3 Poles and 2 Sherpas to C1. 12th May C1 to C2 and 13th up from C2 fixing ropes all day and half of the night and got to high point at 11:00 pm above the cracks but tired climber Morawski could find no place to camp and others below him left all C3 gear where they were 70m below line. All down to C2. No avalanching on cracks area. 14th May might heavy snowfall while in C2. 15th Miotk down to BC (Miotk having altitude problem). 16th Morawski and Pustelnik up from C2 but only to 7100m where Pustelnik got tired and since were in the Crack and no way could not continue above and down to C1 and now climb abandoned; only one member strong enough now to go on climbing.

  Miotk left expedition on 8 May with symptoms of incipient altitude sickness. Wasmowski stayed in BC for entire climb except for one trip to ABC to acclimatize.

  Sherpas:
    Nawang Tenzing, 44 years old, Phortse
    Rita Dorje, 27, Phortse


  Email from Marcin Miotk - 9 July 2005

  Piotr Pustelnik told me that you had left his team before the climb was finished because you were getting altitude problems after having pitched Camp 2 with him and another teammate at 6950m on 5 May. 

  "I respect Piotr as a climber very much, but this is simply not true. I delayed my Everest (originally I was going to move from Annapurna to Everest on around May 5), but finally I left Annapurna BC at May 18 when the expedition was finished. I wanted to help Piotr as much as I can but we did not manage to summit. We (me, Piotr Pustelnik, Piotr Morawski and our Sherpa Rita) made a summit push on May 15. It was planned for two days. On May 15 we planned to put a tent at 7300m and next day to summit. But on May 15 at 7300m we could not find a platform in the night and we came back to C4 at 6900m after 15 hours of hard climb. I was exhausted and I said via walkie-talkie to our doctor that I'm out of power and I will descend to BC on May 17. But Piotr wanted to make summit push once again. In my opinion it was not good decision. We were too tired and it is not practice to make one push after another at 8000m level. But they (Piotr Pustelnik and Piotr Morawski) started their second summit push on May 17. (At the same time I was descending to BC). Being Piotr in my opinion got summit fever and was focused only on summit not on teammates health. Finally Piotrs they gave up very quick on their second "summit push" and descended to Camp at the same day. Piotr P. was very disappointed about this failure. I was a good candidate and in Piotr's dispatches I was not even mentioned as part of summit push. Piotr Morawski's dispatches on summit push were very critized in Poland as he was well said that me and Sherpa Rita gave up and this was a reason why expedition failed. For me the real summit push was on May 15, not May 17. Piotr was saying that only he and Piotr Morawski made summit push. Not me. I'm the person who is acting and I want not to argue on his dispatches. To sum up if he told that I have altitude problems and I left before expedition finished is simply a lie (really to sorry to say that - but its true).

  In the morning on May 18 I started my descent to Pokhara were I get May 19th afternoon. On May 20th I arranged all document with Asian Trekking and next day I was in Zangmu and following day, May 22, in Everest BC at 5000m.

  My first summit push I started on May 29 together with Hans Goger and Gerfried Goeschl. But on June 1 after night with Austrians at 7900m I decided to get back to ABC as the wind was in my opinion too strong. Afternoon I was in ABC (Austrians decided to climb further and finally they summited). I feel so good that on May 3 I decided to try once more. I went directly to C2 totally alone, next day alone to C3 and finally on May 5 I summited totally alone. Tent I used from first summit push and in C3 at 8300m I used a remainings from Indian Army tent (used also by Austrians). Tent is to much to say - just a roof to protect from wind."


expid: BHRS05101
peakid: BHRS
year: 2005
route1: S Face
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
sponsor: Terres d'Adventure Bhrikuti Expedition
ascent1: 1st
countries: Belgium
bcdate: 2005-05-13
smtdate: 2005-05-16
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2005-05-19
campsites: BC(13/05,5000m),C1(15/05,5400m),Smt(16/05)
achievment: 1st ascent
agency: Glacier Safari Treks
routememo:
  BC south of Chako Peak (6704), SSE of Bhrikuti
  C1 on moraine at bottom of South Face.

  Summit party of all members and Bikram Singh left C1 at 4:00 am; De Hults turned back at 5600m because too difficult for him without fixed rope and climb was alpine style. Others reached top at 10:30 am. Face snow on mostly 40 degree slope. Spent 1 hour on top in fine weather, to C1 at 1:00 pm. From C1 on 17th May went on glacier, made a camp there for exploration of the area and 18th May in BC. Climb moderately difficult, more difficult than Gyaji Kang's NW Ridge or Nemjung's West Ridge.


expid: CHOY04354
peakid: CHOY
year: 2004
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Minoru Doya
sponsor: Subaru Cho Oyu Japanese Expedition
bcdate: 2004-08-30
smtdate: 2004-09-19
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2004-09-22
campsites: BC(30/08),ABC(03/09,5650m),C1(11/09,6200m),C2(18/09,7100m),Smt(19/09)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Summit party left C2 for top at 0:30 hours 19 Sept (NST), on top at 8:30 am and saw Everest clearly, returned to sleep in C1 4:30 pm.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Chhiri, 7/4/64, Lokhim
    Tul Bahadur Tamang, 30/8/66, Dhaulagiri X1, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X1


expid: CHOY05105
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Andrej Kurowski
sponsor: Czech-Polish Cho Oyu Expedition
countries: Poland
bcdate: 2005-05-01
smtdate: 2005-05-14
termdate: 2005-05-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6850m due to bad weather
othersmts: Kubicek attempted Everest (EVER-051-10)
campsites: BC(01/05),ABC(02/05,5700m),C1(06/05,6450m,),xxx(14/05,6850m)
agency: Nepal Trans Himalayan Explorer
routememo:
  Two members Coubal and Kubicek got chest infections: Coubal went only to ABC left expedition 4 May; Kubicek reached C1 then left expedition on 7th May "leaving Cho Oyu to me." 

  Kurowski went up to 6850m on 14th, returned to C1 and stayed there till 17 May, then down to ABC. Problem was there was no good weather period long enough for summit bid: every day it snowed in afternoon.


expid: CHOY05115
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Mikel Alvarez Menor
sponsor: Dream Cho Oyu 2005
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-14
smtdate: 2005-04-26
termdate: 2005-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(14/04,4800m),ABC(17/04,5700m),C1(19/04,6500m),xxx(26/04,6600m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 16th at 5300m.

  The expedition returned to KTM on May 14 and left on 16th. They stayed at Garden Home. On May 15 morning I was there at Garden Home until 10 o'clock, they were sleeping. During day they were out. On May 16 they left.


expid: CHOY05101
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side (direct line to top)
nation: USA
leaders: Ed Viesturs
sponsor: Two Americans and Finn to Annapurna I and Cho Oyu
countries: Finland
bcdate: 2005-04-05
smtdate: 2005-04-22
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2005-04-24
othersmts: Climbed Annapurna I (ANN1-051-02)
campsites: BC(05/04,4700m),ABC(08/04,5700m),C1(12/04,6100m),C2(18/04,6750m),C3(20/04,7150m),Smt(22/04)
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  When going for C2 winds so strong and temperature so cold, pitched camp at only 6750m and two days later on 20th, made their C3 at normal C2 site. All 3 members left C3 at 1:30 am NST; about 2:00 am Chin having problems: slurred speech, vision problem, so Viesturs went down with Chin while Gustafsson on up to top alone; Viesturs and Chin all way to BC at 3:30 pm and Gustafsson joined them there at 9:30 pm in moonlight. Viesturs and Gustafsson descended, brought down all gear. Chin improved quickly and descended and came down on own feet.

  Rope fixed as this: 40m in icefall between C1 and C2; above 6750m fixed 150m, in direct line up from there.

  Next to Annapurna I: Arrive BC 30 April by chopper; taking oxygen; probably only Viesturs and Gustafsson; plan to summit on 7 May 77.

  Return KTM 8-10 May by helicopter from BC. Stay Tibet Guest House or if successful, Yak and Yeti maybe.


expid: CHOY05102
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Russia
leaders: Juri Uteshev
sponsor: Cho Oyu Kuzbass 2005
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-28
smtdate: 2005-05-22
smttime: 1115
termdate: 2005-05-26
campsites: BC(28/04,5000m),ABC(30/04,5700m),C1(04/05,6400m),C2(10/05,7100m),C3(21/05,7500m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at CBC
  ABC at usual campsite
  C1  at usual campsite
  C2  at usual campsite
  C3  at usual campsite.

  Naumenko, Sokolov and Uteshev left C3 at 7:30 am (CST). At 7800m Naumenko felt his feet getting cold and he turned back to C3. Two members Sokolov and Uteshev summited at 1:30 pm CST (11:15 NST), took photographs, on top about five minutes, descended to C3 where they reached about 4 pm CST. Next day to ABC. During ascent weather was cold and strong-low wind but no snow. On the summit clear, sunny day but strong wind. Both Sokolov and Uteshev saw Everest, Lhotse, etc. On their ascent Italian, Polish, New Zealanders (don't know exactly) were behind them; on their descent, some climbers returned with them maybe from the beginning or summit plateau but they do not have idea who they were, but not Sherpas. 

  The high point for member Proskurin was C2 (7100m) on 20th. He was not strong enough to continue.

  The expedition returned to KTM on May 27 and stayed in Windhorse House the night. Next day moved to Hotel Swaniga.

  Naumenko said according to Chinese liaison officer only 14 people got to summit.

accidents:
  Gaponov suffered from sore throat and high fever (reached to ABC; he had minor symptoms of sickness when he left Russia; when it aggravated, he left ABC on May 9)


expid: CHOY05103
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Mathilde Theubet
sponsor: Independent climber on Cho Oyu (Monterosa permit)
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-08
smtdate: 2005-04-28
termdate: 2005-05-01
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to fatigue and cold
campsites: BC(08/04,4800m),ABC(10/04,5600m),C1(12/04,6300m),C2(25/04,7100m),C3(27/04,7500m),xxx(28/04,7500m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC  at CBC
  ABC at usual campsite
  C1  at usual campsite
  C2  at usual campsite
  C3  at usual campsite.

  Miss Theubet's summit bid started from ABC on 23 April with Rinjin Bhote. Reached C3 on 27th. They planned to summit on 28th. But she was very tired, no appetite to eat, gave up further climbing and descended to ABC. Weather was good on 27th. The team returned to KTM on May 3. She will leave Nepal on 25 June. She may go to India in between.

  Sherpa:
    Rinjin Bhote


expid: CHOY05104
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Poland
leaders: Ryszard Pawlowski
sponsor: Patagonia Mountain Agency (PMA) Dream Cho Oyu Expedition 2005
bcdate: 2005-04-16
smtdate: 2005-05-01
smttime: 1515
termdate: 2005-07-05
campsites: BC(16/04),ABC(18/04,5640m),C1(22/04,6400m),C2(26/04,7100m),C3(29/04,7500m),Smt(01,03/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  1 May summit team of 3 members (Czwojdzinski, Jankowski and Kazmierczak) left 5:00 am NST; Czwojdzinski up 100m up, too cold and started getting frostbite so down to ABC same day; other 2 to top some prayer flags but too cloudy to see any mountains, but altitude checked by GPS. 3:15 pm on top and down to C3 at 8:00 pm and C3 at 11:00 pm after 1 hour in C3 drinking warm drink and nurse their frostbitten fingers and toes. Stayed in C3 and on 3rd Kazmierczak to ABC and Jankowski to C1. 

  3 May summit team of 3 (Pawlowski, Szczesny and Zaciera) but only Pawlowski went to top while other 2 down after 100m because cold; had left C3 at 6:30 am; 2 turned back after two tries to go more than 100m up. Pawlowski on top at 1:30 pm and down to C3 at 5:00 pm, saw flags and Everest. All in C3 night of 3 May. 4 May Pawlowski to ABC while other 2 down more slowly; had chest infections and Skrzypczynski lung infections.

  Non-summiters:
    Czwojdzinski made summit bid May.
    Gawrzyat got no higher than slightly above ABC, developed chest infection and 
      left expedition 23 April.
    Polak to C1, then got chest infection and left expedition about 29 April.
    Skrzypczynski reached midway between C1 and C2, then down with lung infection
      and spent 3 days in Shigatse hospital.
    Szczesny went above C3 on 3 May.
    Zaciera went above C3 on 3 May.
    Zawada went to C2.


expid: CHOY05106
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Kazakhstan
leaders: Maxut Zhumayev
sponsor: Kazakhstan Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 2005-04-20
smtdate: 2005-05-03
smttime: 0915
termdate: 2005-05-07
campsites: BC(20/04,5500m),ABC(21/04,5700m),C1(23/04,6400m),C2(24/04,7100m),C3(02/05,7400m),Smt(03/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Down to ABC 26 May to rest from C2. Started up again on 30 April to C1. 1 May to C2. 2nd May to C3. 3rd May to top and down to C2 and 4 May to ABC. 3rd May left C3 at 1:30 am NST and on top 9:15 am and returned to C2 12:00 noon. On top on 3rd May were 1 Australian and his Sherpa, later Pawlowski (Polish). Able to go up mountain very fast because they are professional climbers and go for training climbs 4 days every week on 4000m mountains. On summit saw flags and saw panoramic view of Everest and Lhotse.


expid: CHOY05107
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Bruno Carre
sponsor: Cho Oyu 2005
countries: Belgium
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-11
smtdate: 2005-05-12
termdate: 2005-05-15
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to fatique and cold
campsites: BC(11/04,4800m),ABC(14/04,5700m),C1(09/05,6400m),C2(10/05,7100m),C3(11/05,7400m),xxx(12/05,8000m)
accidents: Simon Morillo got frostbite on one finger
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Chinese BC.

  Emmanuel Chaudat turned back at 7700m due to fatigue and feeling sick.

  Nadine Gilson and Jose Hanssen left BC at the end of April. Gilson climbed to 6000m and Hannsens to C1 and spent one night there. They both turned back due to altitude problems (cough and lethargy).

  Team already attempted to summit on 3 May but had to turn around at 7500m due to bad weather.


expid: CHOY05108
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Hermann Berie
sponsor: Amical Alpin Cho Oyu Expedition 2005
countries: Austria, Switzerland
bcdate: 2005-04-17
smtdate: 2005-04-28
termdate: 2005-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 7075m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(17/04),ABC(19/04,5700m),C1(24/04,6400m),C2(28/04,7075m),xxx(28/04,7075m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Plan for 28th April was to acclimatize above C2 and then down to ABC to rest; this was not intended to be a summit push; other 2 members were in ABC (Strebel had been in Tingri with throat problems and Sieveking headache and stomach problem). They tried to go to C2 on 29th, but stayed in C1 on 29th; wanted to go to C2 but turned around at about 200m above C1 because Strebel had no strength in his legs and Sieveking did not want to go on alone, so down to ABC. 

  5 May up from ABC all members and both Sherpas to C1; 9th May up to C2 except Voight turned back at 6000m and down to ABC; 10 May very windy so stayed in C2; 11th 5 members did not want to go on up; some with mild health problems. Berie decided not to make push for top with uncertain weather conditions. 5 had gone down to ABC starting at 9:00 am NST and Berie decided to quit at 12:15 pm and all down in ABC and climb finished.

  Sherpas:  
    Chhiri, Thamo, 2 Jun 73, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X2
    Chuldim, Khumjung, 10 July 71, Cho Oyu X6


expid: CHOY05109
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Slovakia
leaders: Paval Lazar
sponsor: Slovakian Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 2005-04-14
smtdate: 2005-04-26
termdate: 2005-05-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to Stacho's death
campsites: BC(14/04),ABC(17/04,5600m),C1(21/04,6400m),C2(26/04,7100m),xxx(26/04)
accidents: Lazar's chest infection only health problem, except for Stacho's death
agency: Nepal Trans Himalayan Explorer
routememo:
  Had intend to climb Xixabangma but received message from Ralf Dujmovits, who was on Xixa, that there was so much snow that he had to pitch his BC 10 km from normal site, so Lazar asked CTMA for permission to go to Cho Oyu instead and for better rest.

  4 May to ABC. All 7 May to C1, 8th to C2. 9th in C2 that night. 10th Plulik and Marek to ABC and other 2 in C2 another night. Weather bad, strong wind. 11th last 2 down to ABC; just below camp at 7:00 am Stacho collapsed and died within 10 minutes (heart attack?) and climb finished.


expid: CHOY05110
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Pierre Feuillet
sponsor: Dream Cho Oyu 2005
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-14
smtdate: 2005-05-04
termdate: 2005-05-09
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to illness and bad weather
campsites: BC(14/04,4800m),ABC(17/04,5700m),C1(22/04,6500m),C2(04/05,7100m),xxx(04/05,7100m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 16th at 5300m.

  Feuillet went up to C2 on 4th and stayed on 5th. Got sick and it started to snow - went down to ABC and gave up further attempt. Feuillet returned to KTM on 10th and will leave as soon as possible. His flight booking is on May 21st.


expid: CHOY05111
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Emmanuel Exposito
sponsor: Team Cho Oyu 2005
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-14
smtdate: 2005-05-04
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2005-05-15
campsites: BC(14/04,4800m),ABC(17/04,5700m),C1(21/04,6500m),C2(25/04,7200m),Smt(04/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC April 16 at 5300m.

  Exposito left C2 on May 04 at 02:30 hours (NST), summited 14:30 hours, spent about 5 minutes on the summit, descended to C2 at about 18:00 hours. Next day to ABC. Summit ws cloudy, visibility was poor and snowing. Exposito saw a pole with red flags (prayer flags). Exposito met three Japanese in C3 while going up for summit. He was alone on the summit. After him nobody have summited till May 15. Exposito returned to KTM on May 10 and will leave on 19th. 

  Exposito does not speak English. Van den Berghe help to talk to Exposito. Also used the notebook of Van den Berghe for dates and altitude. 

  Exposito's climbing member Miss Spiessers's activities were as follows: She arrived CBC on same day of Exposito but next day she had to go to Nyalam due to difficulty in breathing due to probably the high altitude. Gloria Brighenti also was with her. Both Spiesser and Gloria returned to CBC on 17th. BC on 18th, ABC on 19th, C1 on 27, C2 on May 02. On May 03 Spiesser reached her highest point of 7200m while trying to go to C3 from C2 (there was snowfall, weather was bad), then returned to C2. Next day to ABC. On May 10 Spiesser again went to C1. There was big storm which blew away 7 tents. Most of them were of Dutch expedition. She left ABC on 15th and arrived KTM on the afternoon of 16th.


expid: CHOY05112
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Libor Kozak
sponsor: Way to the Turquoise Goddess
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-19
smtdate: 2005-05-16
termdate: 2005-05-19
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to members were too late in the day
campsites: BC(19/04,5000m),ABC(21/04,5700m),C1(28/04,6400m),C2(29/04,7100m),C3(13/05,7400m),xxx(16/05,7900m)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  Novak reached 7800m on 16 May and also turned around due to being too late in the day (6 pm Chinese time). 

  2 team members (Honzak, Kozak) already attempted summit on 14 May and turned back at 7740m (7700m Honzak) due to strong winds.


expid: CHOY05113
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Guiseppe Antonelli
sponsor: Independent team on Cho Oyu
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->Xigar->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-27
smtdate: 2005-05-12
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2005-05-26
campsites: BC(27/04,4900m),ABC(29/04,5600m),C1(04/05,6300m),C2(11/05,7030m),Smt(12/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Mario Andrighettoni and Francesca Raffaelli got to 7200m on 21 May. They abandoned the climb due to high winds and they were out of time.

  Antonelli left BC on 15 May.


expid: CHOY05114
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Valter Perlino
sponsor: In Cammino Verso Un 8000
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-27
smtdate: 2005-05-21
smttime: 1115
termdate: 2005-05-23
campsites: BC(27/04,5000m),ABC(29/04,5600m),C1(04/05,6300m),C2(09/05,7000m),C3(20/05,7400m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Sherpa Alpine Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC.

  Giacone injured in head by falling stone in Kodari near a lodge where he was walking on April 17; took him to B & B Hospital, lifted him by helicopter to KTM. He stayed in KTM about 2 weeks. Perlino continued for Cho Oyu after four days. Giacone probably left Nepal on April 30 - didn't remember the date exactly.

  Perlino and Da Chhemba Sherpa left C3 on 21st at 02:30 hours (NST), reached summit at 11:15 hours, stayed on summit about 45 minutes, descended, reached C3 at 15:15 hours. Da Chhemba Sherpa came maybe an hour and half hour later to C3. Next day to ABC. Weather was good, windy but not very strong, it was a sunny day on the summit. Everest side was covered with cloud. Perlino offered on summit a kata and chocolate at summit. There were prayer some flags. There was not anybody from other expeditions. While descending Perlino met at C3 members of Russian expedition and Mattiel (Italian) coming up from C2.

  Perlino returned to KTM on May 24 late evening. Will leave on 28th.

  Other Sherpa is Kancha Sherpa who had summited Cho Oyu two years ago. Both the Sherpas are from Solukhumbu area.

accidents:
  Giacone hit by a falling stone on his head in Kodari near a lodge where he was walking on April on 17th


expid: CHOY05116
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Belgium
leaders: Tom van dan Berghe
sponsor: Dream Cho Oyu 2005
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-14
smtdate: 2005-05-04
termdate: 2005-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to bad weather (snowfall, storm)
campsites: BC(14/04,4800m),ABC(17/04,5700m),C1(23/04,6500m),C2(04/05,7100m),xxx(04/05,7100m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at CBC/IC on 16th at 5300m
  ABC at usual campsite
  C1  at usual campsite
  C2  at usual campsite.

  First attempt on May 4. Stayed in C2 waited for good weather till 5th. On 6th went down to ABC. May 9th second attempt from ABC to C1; stayed on 10th, on 11th storm. Then gave up for summit bid. He arrived KTM on May 14 and will leave on 20th.


expid: CHOY05117
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Walter Berardi
sponsor: Tibet 2005 to Cho Oyu
bcdate: 2005-04-16
smtdate: 2005-04-30
termdate: 2005-05-03
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to bad weather and leader's family problem
campsites: BC(16/04),ABC(20/04,5700m),C1(23/04,6400m),C2(30/04,7200m),xxx(30/04,7200m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  High point at C2.

  Snow and wind and Berardi's family problem at home, so all decided to leave mountain and return home. 

  On 30th April Manoni and Berardi went towards C2, from C1, but Berardi turned back at 7000m because worried about family problems at home while Manoni up to C2 alone. Manoni pitched C2 alone and slept there night of 30th April, but bad weather sent him down to C1 on 1st May and ABC 2nd May.

  Other 2 members tired and never above ABC.


expid: CHOY05118
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Maurizio Giordani
sponsor: Cho Oyu Italian Expedition 2005
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->Xigar->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-26
smtdate: 2005-05-02
termdate: 2005-05-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to high winds and bad weather
campsites: BC(26/04,4800m),ABC(28/04,5700m),C1(30/04,6400m),C2(02/05,7100m),xxx(09/05,7100m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Giuseppe Casagrande and Andrea Sartori left early. Casagrande got to C1 and fell sick and left 6 May. Sartori had problems with his vision after having been to C2 and left on 8 May.


expid: CHOY05119
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Inaki Fernandez
sponsor: Empresari Expedition to Cho Oyu and Xixabangma
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-11
smtdate: 2005-05-03
termdate: 2005-05-11
termnote: Abandoned at 8030m due to bad weather and had to go for Xixabangma
campsites: BC(11/04,4700m),ABC(14/04,5700m),C1(18/04,6400m),C2(01/05,7100m),xxx(03/05,8030m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC 13th at 5200m.

  On May 3 Basarrate, Estanol and Fernandez left C2 at 02:00 hours (NST), reached 8030m at 11:30 hours. Started snowfall, weather became very bad and cold. They saw Polish climber coming up and he continued for summit. Three members decided to turn back. Basarrate reached C2 at 16:30 hours and last one arrived at 17:30 hours. Reached C2 at 16:30 hours and last one arrived at 17:30 hours. Next day to ABC. 

  Waited for weather improvement but for three days snowfall continued after that high wind. On May 11 Basarrate, Estanyol and Fernandez left Cho Oyu ABC for Xixabangma. 

  The expedition arrived KTM on May 22. They have booking for out-bound flight for May 29. Will try to leave early if possible. 

  Gento had chest infection and had to leave the expedition on April 19 (ABC) and CBC on April 21. He might have left KTM on May 4 or 5.


expid: CHOY05120
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Piermario Mattiel
sponsor: Altox Cho Oyu Expedition 2005
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->Xigar->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-27
smtdate: 2005-05-22
termdate: 2005-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 8024m due to bad weather and no more time
campsites: BC(27/04,5900m),ABC(29/04,5600m),C1(06/05,6300m),C2(21/05,7030m),xxx(22/05,8024m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Botto reached 6800m on 12 May. After that he stayed at BC and C1 due to altitude problems.

  Oliva reached C2 on 21 May but did not go for summit push with Mattiel due to upset stomach and problems with altitude.


expid: CHOY05121
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Gloria Brighenti
sponsor: Independent climber
bcdate: 2005-04-14
smtdate: 2005-04-24
termdate: 2005-05-03
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to Brighenti's being hit by lightning
campsites: BC(14/04),ABC(16/04,5700m),C1(23/04,6400m),xxx(24/04,7000m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Hermann Berie (leader of Amical Cho Oyu expedition) - 17 May 2005

  Gloria was in her tent at C1 (6500m) on 24 April at 11:00 pm when her "Sherpa" called for help and Fabrizio (Manoni of Berardi's expedition) heard her and called Berie knowing he had oxygen. Berie and Adank (his paramedic member) went up to her. She was lying in her tent not breathing. They gave her oxygen and she resumed breathing after 2-3 minutes; she had no singe marks. She would stop breathing occasionally; she was in shock. Fabrizio stayed with her all night. Next day she could descend on her own feet. She said that in 2000 she had been in a coma for six months.

  * Man Bahadur Gurung, 22/2/65, Sitalpati, Cho Oyu X4, etc.


  Brighenti e-mail to Miss Hawley - 24 May 2005

  I arrived at CBC on April 14th but I stayed one day and than I returned to Tingri for two days for problem sickness (diarrhea). At April 16th I returned at CBC.

  I arrived in ABC on April 18th and C1 on April 23rd (6400m).

  I climbed higher than C1 to about 7000m perhaps more because I saw the tents in C2 but I stopped before C2 just for acclimatization on 24th April ,then in the same day I came back to C1. The weather started to change and I decided to come back before the storm to C1.

  Mr Man Bahadur Gurung didn't climb with me that day. He started before me to go to C2 to prepare the tent and the place. I decided to meet Mr Bahadur in C1 and stay in there for the second night. Our program was to reach C2 three days after, step by step. We met in C1 at six o'clock. I didn't reach the highest point with him but I was with Kazakh people and other people from other expeditions, a lot of people were on the way that day and it was beautiful day in the morning.

  I did not take any bottled oxygen for climbing and I didn't use any other team's oxygen.

  It was April 24th and my second night in C1. I slept alone in my tent on the left crest. Over my tent just 3 meters away was Man Bahadur sleeping alone in his tent. I was sleeping and outside it was snowing and was wind. Around 8 o'clock (sorry I was sleeping and I don't remember very well the time) I heard a strange noise and vibration around my head and my mouth was strange....the taste was strange. Immediately I saw something happen. I saw a big lightning and after my legs was constrained I felt pain in them, in my arms and hands and in my left shoulder.

  For sometime I could not understand, then I tried to move my legs but it was impossible so I understood that I was struck by lightning. I couldn't move my body and I tried calling for help for ten and more minutes but nobody could hear me because out was a big storm.

  After sometime Man Bahadur came to my tent and asked me what happened. He was scared. I explained him and told him to go and ask for help from people on the glacier. I could not move my body. At that moment I saw a hole in my tent next to my shoulder. I was nervous and scared. I told him to call Italian people.

  He went down, came back and told me that nobody agreed to help him. I asked him to go again and move the tents.

  After five minutes he arrived with Fabrizio Manoni a mountain guide from Italy. Fabrizio stayed ten meters from my tent distance and he told me that he couldn't come to my tent because there was too much static energy on the rock and air.

  After he came into the tent and told me: I will carry you out of the tent, you can't stay in your tent as it is very dangerous and you are in shock but I can't do it by myself. I need help.

  Man Bahadur returned on glacier and called other people (from Alemannia Expedition) and the mountain guide Hermann Berie with the doctor Markus (I don't know his surname) came into my tent.

  Afterwards I fell unconscious and don't remember anything except people around me. They asked me: Gloria you have to breathe and open your eyes but I couldn't breathe and I was so scared because I could not move my legs and the pain at my shoulder was severe.

  They put me on oxygen and massaged my heart when I didn't breathe. They made some examination at my legs and my body. One Italian called Italy with satellite phone at the anesthesist and he told him to put me on oxygen and protect her from heart attack.

  I kept oxygen for all night and Mr Manoni Fabrizio slept in my tent to control me and control the oxygen...the other people stayed till three or four o'clock. The night was bad. In the morning my legs were better but my feet and my hands and fingers were burned like my shoulder. (not serious). Believe me it was incredible and bad experience.

  I want to say thanks to Mr Man Bahadur, Mr Manoni Fabrizio, Mr Hermann Berie and Markus.


expid: CHOY05122
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Sandro Vidi
sponsor: Primavera 2005 to Cho Oyu
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-20
smtdate: 2005-05-12
smttime: 1030
campsites: BC(20/04,4800m),ABC(23/04,5700m),C1(28/04,6400m),C2(04/05,7100m),Smt(12/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at CBC/IC 22nd at 5300m
  ABC at usual campsite
  C1  at usual campsite
  C2  at usual campsite.

  May 11 Cozzini, Roberto Manni, Mase left C2 at 9:30 pm (NST). Mase then back from 7300m as his feet got very cold. Cozzini had to turn back from usual C3 site as his feet too got very cold. Roberto Manni reached summit at 10:30 am of 12th, stayed there about 20 minutes, descended to C2 where he arrived at 2 pm. Next day arrived ABC. Manni saw Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, etc. Sky was clear but windy and cold. The other person on summit with Manni was Joseph Antonelli from other Italian Expedition. 

  Campigotto was at C2 on May 11, but he did not continue climbing as he was tired. Gherardi, Luigi Manni, Marca and Vidi left Nepal on May 3. All four of them been to C1. 

  Gherardi had to leave as his time finished; other three did not want to stay longer as they did not feel good. The remaining seven people returned to KTM on May 16 and are leaving on 19th.


expid: CHOY05123
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Australia
leaders: Tashi Tenzing
sponsor: Jagged Globe Cho Oyu Expedition 2005
countries: Netherlands
bcdate: 2005-04-18
smtdate: 2005-04-29
termdate: 2005-05-11
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to members' exhaustion
campsites: BC(18/04,4750m),ABC(21/04,5510m),C1(29/04,6250m),xxx(29/04,7000m)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  High point at 7000m on 29th April by 3 Sherpas at C2 site.

  C2 pitched by 2 Sherpas on 24th April. Team rested in C1 on 30 April. 1 May all members and 3 Sherpas headed for C2. At 6400m Sabbagh no energy, exhausted, so Tashi took him to C1 and went up again; met Raeburn just below hanging ice cliff and they climbed cliff together to 6600m. Now Raeburn said he had no energy left, so Tashi took him to C1 at 4:00 pm in extremely slow descent. Michel Van den Munckhof below C2 at 10m high ice wall when Sherpas came down from C2 to find him, so took all 3 Sherpas to get him there. 4th and 5th heavy snowfall, 6th light shower. 7th Sherpas to C1 and 8th Pema, Tashi and Michel to towards C1 but 1-1/2 hours above ABC Michel had made extremely slow progress and soon no energy left, so at 5600m turned back and climb finished.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Gyalzen, Makalu VDC, 3x8000er 
    Temba Wangdi, Makalu VDC, Cho Oyu X3
    Pema, Rolwaling, 40 years


expid: CHOY05124
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Rene de Bos
sponsor: Snow Leopard Adventures Cho Oyu 2005
bcdate: 2005-05-01
smtdate: 2005-05-22
termdate: 2005-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 8050m due to all tired and no more time
campsites: BC(01/05),ABC(04/05,5700m),C1(08/05,6400m),C2(10/05,7000m),C3(21/05,7450m),xxx(22/05,8050m)
accidents: Nothing serious but Vis had altitude problem and left expedition 9 May
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Summit party of others and Overbeeke and Van den Bos from C3 with Kaji and Pemba Gyalzen Sherpa at 5:00 am (NST). Kaji turned back at about 7500m (cold feet) and Pemba at 7600m (cold and tired). Both Dutch reached last snow field. Overbeeke to 8000m and Van den Bos to 8050m. This was at 12:00 noon and now too late to get to top withouth oxygen and not moving fast enough, clouds building looking like storm coming, so both to C3 together and to C1 on 24th. This was the highest by expedition and now yaks coming on 25th so climb finished.

  Sherpas: 
    Kaji, Sankhuwasabha, 12/7/78
    Pemba Gyalzen, Khumjung, 21/6/73, no 8000ers


expid: CHOY05125
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Belgium
leaders: John van Damme
sponsor: Dream Cho Oyu 2005
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-14
smtdate: 2005-05-04
termdate: 2005-05-09
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to bad weather conditions (snowfall)
campsites: BC(14/04,4800m),ABC(17/04,5700m),C1(21/04,6500m),C2(24/04,7100m),xxx(04/05,7100m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC 16th at 5300m.

  May 4 Van Damme at C2 waiting for improvement in weather; there was snowfall then went down to ABC and decided to give up on May 6. He returned to KTM on 10th and will leave on 19th.


expid: CHOY05127
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Diana Finkel
sponsor: Finkel Woodbeck Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-14
smtdate: 2005-04-24
termdate: 2005-05-10
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(14/04,4800m),ABC(17/04,5590m),C1(22/04,6400m),C2(25/04,7100m),xxx(24/04,7100m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at CBC/IC 16th at 5200m
  ABC at usual campsite
  C1  at usual campsite
  C2  at usual campsite.

  Finkel and Woodbeck went to C2 for second time on May 3 to continue for summit. But due to bad weather conditions were forced to turn back. 

  Both members returned to KTM on May 11 and left the country on May 14.


expid: CHOY05128
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Hooman Aprin
sponsor: American Twin Peaks Expedition 2005 to Cho Oyu and Xixabangma
bcdate: 2005-05-06
smtdate: 2005-05-10
termdate: 2005-05-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6850m due to bad weather and members tired
othersmts: Attempted Xixabangma first (to 7500m)
campsites: BC(06/05),ABC(08/05,5700m),C1(10/05,6400m),xxx.Mbrs(12/05,6700m),xxx.Shrp(10/05,6850m)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  On 10th May Ang Temba, Nima Dorje and Pasang Tshering pitched C2 at 6850m then slept in ABC. On 12 May Lohmeier went to C1 and stayed there (stomach problem) while Thornton and DiMartino up to 6700m, then turned back because bad weather and tired from attempt on Xixa before going to Cho Oyu. Thorton slept in C1 and down to ABC 13 May and DiMartino down to ABC on 12 May. 

  Leader Aprin had frostnipped fingers on Xixa, so went no higher than ABC and while others went higher, he went over to Nangpa La returned to ABC 14 May and decision made to abandon Cho Oyu because of bad weather (snowfall every afternoon), lack of strength by tired members (and Thorton, it was discovered had mild pulmonary edema).

  Sherpas:
    Ang Temba, Beding, Cho Oyu X9, Everest X1
    Nima Dorje, Beding, Cho Oyu X5, Everest X7, etc
    Pasang Tshering, Beding, Cho Oyu X4, Everest X3


expid: CHOY05129
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Evangelos Germeles
sponsor: Arlington Expedition to Cho Oyu
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->Xigar->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-11
smtdate: 2005-04-15
termdate: 2005-04-21
termnote: Abandoned at 5700m due to lack of energy/motivation
campsites: BC(11/04,5000m),ABC(15/04,5700m),xxx(15/04,5700m)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  Evangelos abandoned the climb due to bad weather and the fact that he realized that climbing the mountain on his own would be too hard.


expid: CHOY05130
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Les Vierra
sponsor: More than Mountain Two Cho Oyu Expedition (Monterosa permit)
bcdate: 2005-04-07
smtdate: 2005-04-27
termdate: 2005-05-02
termnote: Abandoned at 7140m due bad weather and lack of funds
campsites: BC(07/04),ABC(11/04,5750m),C1(16/04,6750m),C2(24/04,7100m),xxx(27/04,7140m)
agency: More Than Mountain Treks
routememo:
  High point at 7140m at bottom of seracs.

  27th Vierra tried for top from C2. Brent had turned around from C2. Brent had turned around on 24th at 6800m at base of seracs and had to wait 2 hours for others ahead of them to go up (very slow people ahead). Reached there at 9:30 am NST and Brent doesn't like not being in control of his climb, so Vierra on to C2 alone. Vierra left C2 at 1:00 am on 27th but only 40m higher because snowfalling, foggy and in new snow could see not tracks to follow. So down to C1 alone and rejoined Brent at ABC on 28th. Had already decided on 24 April to make only one summit bid because of lack of funds.


expid: CHOY05131
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Frank Curtler
sponsor: Monterosa International Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-07
smtdate: 2005-04-27
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2005-05-02
campsites: BC(07/04,5000m),ABC(11/04,5700m),C1(14/04,6400m),C2(24/04,7400m),C3(26/04,7800m),Smt(27/04)
agency: Kalsang Sherpa
routememo:
  BC  at CBC/IC April 10 at about 5500m
  ABC at usual campsite
  C1  at usual campsite
  C2  at usual campsite
  C3  at usual campsite.

  Curtler and Phura Nuru left C3 at about 03:00 hours (NST) on 27th, reached summit at about 10:00 hours, stayed on summit between 20 to 30 minutes. Descended to C3, rested about an hour, then to C2 where Curtler and Phura reached around 18:00 hours. Next day to ABC. The climbing day weather was nice, clear. Below the summit there were clouds. Curtler said that was wonderful. Curtler said he and Phura while going up met 2 people, American or Canadians, returning from Yellow Band. No other people on the mountain on that day. The expedition team returned to KTM on May 3 and will leave on May 13. Curtler said that the view of Everest and other mountains was just amazing from the summit.


expid: CHOY05132
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Maxime Jean, Ron Sanga
sponsor: Cho Oyu Expedition 2005
countries: Canada
bcdate: 2005-04-16
smtdate: 2005-04-27
termdate: 2005-04-28
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to Sherpa's illness
campsites: BC(16/04),ABC(19/04,5600m),C1(22/04,6400m),C2(26/04,7400m),xxx(27/04)
agency: Mountain Madness
routememo:
  High point at last snowfield.

  23rd down to ABC to rest and 25th up to C1 and 26th to C2 by both members and 2 Sherpas. 27th 2:00 am NST all 4 from C2 for top. Reached 8000m 9:00 am, sunny no wind, then Thile Nurbu Sherpa started developing pulmonary edema, so all back to C2. Thile slept on oxygen. 28th all to ABC. 29th all to BC and Tingri.
   
  Oxygen: 2 members sleeping in C2 to 8000m to C2; Nawang Dorje none; Thile Nurbu in C2 with pulmonary edema 27th night. Members were going strong but 2 Sherpas not.

  Sanga and Jean used same trekking agent, met on route to BC and decided to join forces; climbed as one team called Cho Oyu Expedition 2005.

  Sherpas: 
    Thile Nurbu, Everest X2 in Spr 2004 with Jean
    Nawang Dorje


expid: CHOY05133
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Australia
leaders: Soren Ledet
sponsor: Australian 2005 Cho Oyu Expedition
countries: Denmark, New Zealand
bcdate: 2005-04-05
smtdate: 2005-05-03
termdate: 2005-05-07
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to exceeding turn around time
campsites: BC(05/04),ABC(10/04,5700m),C1(18/04,6400m),C2(25/04,7050m),C3(02/05,7500m),xxx(03/05)
accidents: Ledet mini-stroke; R. and S. Sherlock frostbite; Webster pancreitis
agency: Sea to Summit Trekking
routememo:
  3 May summit party of Kosztelny, Ledet, R. Sherlock, S. Sherlock, Dhana Rai, Vishnu Gurung and Furba Sherpa). Left C3 2:30 am, Ledet to 7700m, had mini-stroke on left side of face and fingers, so down to C2; was after half hour in descent; S. Sherlock to 7850m, R. Sherlock to 7900m and Kosztelny to 8000m at 11:00 am, turn around time and 3 Sherpas with each member, so all down to C2 that night. Sherlocks at C2 after dark. 

  Gurung hit by rock dislodged by 3 Spaniards and "quite dazed" and "Sherpas" stayed at C3 (they had refused to wear helmets) while members used others. Climb finished: weather worsening and no more time.

  R. Sherlock 3 fingers deep tissue frostbite, S. Sherlock superficial frostbitten finger.

  Oxygen used: none by "Sherpas" none at all; by members from C3 to high point; down to C3 only by R. Sherlock, S. Sherlock, Kosztelny.

  Sherpas:
    Dhana Bahadur Rai, Necha, Solukhumbu (with Ledet on Annapurna IV in 2003)
    Bir Bahadur (Vishnu) Gurung
    Furba Sherpa (18/8/71), Fera near Junbesi (with Ledet on Annapurna IV in 2003)


expid: CHOY05134
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Masakazu Okuda
sponsor: 2005 Japanese Spring Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 2005-04-11
smtdate: 2005-05-01
termdate: 2005-05-05
termnote: Abandoned at 7950m due to exceeding turn around time
othersmts: Climbed Everest (EVER-051-03)
campsites: BC(11/04),ABC(15/04,5700m),C1(18/04,6400m),C2(29/04,7000m),C3(30/04,7400m),xxx(01/05,7950m)
achievment: 1st blind climber on Cho Oyu
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  1 May summit attack by 4 members and 4 Sherpas. Left C3 at 4:00 am NST. All 8 reached 7950m at 1:00 pm. Now too late to reach top and returned to C3, where reached 5:30 pm. 2 May to C1 and 3rd May ABC and climb finished.

  Takeshita totally blind since aged 15 years because of illness; he was led by Okuda holding one end of a pole and Takeshita the other end from ABC to high point to ABC. Takeshita and Yasuoka used oxygen from C1 to high point to and in C3; other 2 Japanese and 4 Sherpas none at all. 

  Why does Takeshita climb? he had difficulty to explain thought for several minutes, said "I climb for myself... it gives me satisfaction" to be climbing. Has climbed for 10 years in Japan, scaled Island Peak 3 years ago.


  Okuda - 2 June 2005  

  Takashita too tired for 2nd summit bid and no oxygen for another try.

  "Sherpas"
    Pasang Tamang, 4/12/68, Deusa, Everest X1
    Dhyan Bahadur Rai, 21/11/63, Mahadevsthan-2, Bhojpur, no 8000ers
    Lhakpa Chhiring/Chhiri, 7/4/64, Lokhim, Everest X2
    Phurba Chhiri, 4/12/68, Lokhim, Everest X2, Manaslu X1, Lhotse X2, Cho Oyu X1


expid: CHOY05135
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Martin Minarik
sponsor: Martin Minarik Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2005-03-28
smtdate: 2005-04-16
termdate: 2005-04-18
campsites: BC(28/03,5200m),ABC(30/03,5700m),C1(02/04,6400m),C2(09/04,7100m),Smt(16/04)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  Minarik left C2 at 10 pm on 15 April but he had to wait just below C3 at 7500m as it was too dark. He waited in a crevasse from 2 am to 4 am. He spent 15 minutes on summit (pictures) and got back to C2 at 9 pm. He was completely alone on the mountain. He saw Everest, Lhotse and Makalu from summit. He had pictures.


expid: CHOY05136
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Simone La Terra
sponsor: Independent climber on Cho Oyu
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-14
smtdate: 2005-05-12
termdate: 2005-05-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to La Terra's fingers beginning to get numb
campsites: BC(14/04,4800m),ABC(17/04,5700m),C1(20/04,6500m),C2(27/04,7100m),xxx(12/05,7500m)
accidents: Suffered from bronchitis at C1 on 20th (went down to CBC and spent about one week to recover)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 16th at 5300m.

  May 12 La Terra reached up to 7500m. He realized that there is no feeling in his fingers due to cold and turned around. La Terra arrived KTM on May 16 and will leave the country on June 26. He said he will be going to Annapurna. 

  La Terra agreed to meet me [again] on May 19, but he did not turn up. The information about the camps and dates may not be reliable. He said that he had been to Dhaulagiri (up to 6980m) and Annapurna (up to 7100m) in 2004 May, but not be true or he just went to both mountains without any permit.


expid: CHOY05137
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Jorn Alder
sponsor: Atrex Cho Oyu Expedition 2005
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->Xigar->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-30
smtdate: 2005-05-21
termdate: 2005-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to bad weather (very windy)
campsites: BC(30/05,5000m),ABC(02/05,5600m),C1(04/05,6400m),C2(21/05,7150m),xxx(21/05,7600m)
accidents: Vincent Pannatier had retinal hemorrhage
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Due to his eye problem Pannatier left on 7 May. 

  Alder turned back at 7400m (Claude Marthaler and Charly Imstepf stayed at C2 when the other two attempted the summit).


expid: CHOY05126
peakid: CHOY
year: 2005
route1: NW side
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Rochelle Rafferty
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Cho Oyu Expedition 2005
countries: Australia
bcdate: 2005-04-23
smtdate: 2005-05-23
termdate: 2005-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to high winds
campsites: BC(23/04),ABC(26/04,5700m),C1(05/05,6400m),C2(18/05,7100m),C3(20/05,7400m),xxx(23/05,7700m)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  Summit bid on 23 May from C2 10:00 pm NST by Rafferty and Lynch. Rafferty reached C3 at 1:15 am and Lynch at 3:00 am feeling ill and tired from altitude and he stopped at C3. Rafferty, Ang Chhiri and Pema Nuru (Sherpas were already in C3) up from C3 at 4:00 am, on to base of yellow band at 7600m; now Rafferty's feet now cold and stayed there while 2 Sherpas up to 7700m and then wind too strong to continue up. Rafferty had gone down to C3 and Sherpas joined her there at 8:30 am. Sherpas stopped at C1 cleaning camps and Rafferty to ABC. Now strong winds prevented another summit bid soon.

  Collin got altitude sickness, stopped climbing between ABC and C1 and left early. 
  Cook had series of illnesses culminating in undiagnosed (in KTM) conditions for
    which she was given oxygen and intravenous drip slowly recovering in KTM.
  Francis arrived at ABC with infected foot and never went higher because ABC.
  Charles Thirwell went to C1 then left expedition (was intimidated by the mountain).
  Simon Thirwell went to ABC only, then left after 1 week with altitude sickness.

  Oxygen:
    Lynch in C3
    Cook when very ill 2 days before team leaving mountain to return to KTM
    Tibetan Tshering Dorje in C3 when getting altitude sickness

accidents:
  Collin alitude sickness; Tibetan's Tshering Dorje altitude sickness; S. Thirwell altitude sickness; Francis foot infection


expid: DHA105101
peakid: DHA1
year: 2005
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Inaki Ochoa
sponsor: Independent climber on Dhaulagiri I
bcdate: 2005-04-16
smtdate: 2005-05-05
termdate: 2005-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to avalanche danger
campsites: BC(16/04,4650m),C1(18/04,5850m),C2(20,21/04,6800m),xxx(05/05,8000m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  C1 a little below NE Col
  C2 on NE Ridge
  High point on NE Ridge bump which looks like top.

  Climbed mostly with Stangl, except 5th May up to 8000m and down to C1 at 7300m after 26 hours of climbing from BC. 6th May to BC. 13/14 May to 6800m. 18th May to 7300m, now snowing and lightning; crossed wind slabs and continued on track already there. Avalanche down to C1 on 18th. Now learned of death on Annapurna I of Kuntner which "made me think a lot" and quit climb because too dangerous.


expid: DHA105102
peakid: DHA1
year: 2005
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Christian Stangl
sponsor: Independent climber on Dhaulagiri I
bcdate: 2005-04-16
smtdate: 2005-05-05
termdate: 2005-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 7880m due to avalanche danger
campsites: BC(16/04,4650m),C1(18/04,5850m),C2(19/04,6800m),xxx(05/05,7880m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at NE col (a little higher)
  C2 at NE Ridge
  High point at snowfield on North Face.

  Planned to climb Dhaulagiri in speed climb. Down to BC after occupying C2 and then up for summit push with Ochoa. 3 May both men went to 7400m fixing ropes and breaking trail, fixed from 6800m to 7400m. 4 May rested in BC. 5 May up from BC together but Stangl turned around at 7850m because most Italians told him he was on way to false summit and down to C2 at 3:00 pm. 6 May to BC. 

  Made 2 more summit attempts on 13-14th to C2, then avalanche danger so down to BC. 18 May up again at 3:00 am and again down from C2; avalanche danger and lightning so stayed C1, 18th and 19th BC and climb finished.


expid: DHA105104
peakid: DHA1
year: 2005
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Peter Guggemos
sponsor: Independent climber on Dhaulagiri I and Annapurna I
bcdate: 2005-04-16
smtdate: 2005-05-06
termdate: 2005-05-08
termnote: Abandoned at 8050m due to Guggemos illness
campsites: BC(16/04,4600m),C1(21/04,5800m),C2(22/04,6800m),xxx(06/05,8050m)
accidents: Guggemos chest infection
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  High point at 7650m on traverse by Guggemos (Lhakpa Nuru continued on to 8050m).

  Left C1 on 2 May 9:00 pm by Guggemos and Lhakpa Nuru, Stangl and Ochoa. Reached 7450m at 2:20 am on 3rd May; then stopped because bad snow conditions and late so down to BC 3 May. 4th May up again at 6:00 pm (climbed at night because snow had and not so hot temperature). From BC to C1 at 9:30 pm; 5th to C2. 5th May from C2 at 6:30 pm, up to 7650m but now Guggemos bad chest infection due to cold air in throat at 12:30-1:00 am 6th May; were on the traverse of NE Face. Returned down to C3 to wait for Lhakpa Nuru to try for summit and he returned 5:00 am after having followed tracks of Koreans, Ochoa and Stangl and some Italians expedition members, all of whom went for summit, where there is an aluminium pole; all knew was not true summit except Koreans and Lhakpa Nuru who was there at 3:30 pm of 6th at 8050m. Lhakpa to C3, joined Guggemos and both to BC same day. Climb finished because of Guggemos's illness.


expid: DHA105106
peakid: DHA1
year: 2005
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Roberto Alloi
sponsor: Dhaulagiri International Expedition
countries: Slovenia
approach: Beri->Babiyadraun->Dharapani->Muri
bcdate: 2005-04-13
smtdate: 2005-05-05
termdate: 2005-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 8120m (fore-summit) due to avalanche danger
campsites: BC(13/04,4600m),ABC(18/04,5800m),C1(22/04,6300m),C2(04/05,7850m),ForeSmt(05/05,8120m)
accidents: Enrico was altitude sick
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  C1 above NE Col on snowfield
  High point at fore-summit.

  The whole team attempted to summit on 5 May. Benet, Merai and Vuerich climbed to the false summit (aluminium pole) but realized they'd gone wrong and returned to BC. Alloi, Cedolin, Guiliani and Gricar reached C2. Next attempt on 10 May also failed. Whole team was forced back by storm just below C2.

  On 3 May Benet, Meroi and Vuerich to C1. 4 May took C1 tent up to 7250m and slept there in C2 on NE Ridge. 5 May up for summit bid but reached false summit at 7:30-8:00 am on 5 May (had left C2 1:30 am). Thought this was summit till saw there was a higher point and on their descent met Inaki Ochoa who informed they had been to wrong summit. Down to BC on 5th leaving C2 tent in place in hope to go up again and reach highest summit. 

  Made 2 more bids for top: 9 May up to 6300m only, but weather "was terrible with lightning and snowfall" and back to BC. 17 May up from BC to C1; 18 May C2; 19 May up from C2 to 7700m at base of big snowfield, but too dangerous from avalanches and falling seracs even just above BC. Down to BC 19 May and climb finished. All 3 members climbed together in all three bids. 

  Alloi, Cedolin, Guiliani and Gricar left BC on 12 May, came back to KTM on 17 May and left for Italy on 22 May.

  Enrico de Luca left team in first week after arriving at BC. Left about 15 April, not feeling well, did not go above BC.


expid: DHA105103
peakid: DHA1
year: 2005
route1: NE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Ahn Jae-Hong
sponsor: Korean Dhaulagiri I Expedition
ascent1: 117
bcdate: 2005-04-08
smtdate: 2005-05-04
smttime: 1700
termdate: 2005-05-08
campsites: BC(08/04,4700m),ABC(16/04,5000m),C1(18/04,5400m),C2(22/04,6400m),C3(03/05,7400m),Smt(04/05)
accidents: Nothing except Choi Hong-Gweon's stomach problem
agency: NE-KO Treks
routememo:
  C1 at NE Col
  C2 on NE Ridge
  C3 on NE Ridge.

  Kang, Cho Im-Bok and 4 Sherpas left C3 at 2:00 am. Kang's oxygen regulator not functioning 1 hour up from C3 at 7700m, so she and Kami Tshering down to C2; others to top at 5:00 pm without oxygen and slept in C3 on 8:30 pm. Kang used oxygen in C2 to high point to and in C2; had no good training wherea s Choi "very hard training." Weather turned bad with snow fall starting 5 May. 

  Ahn stayed in BC directing climbers entire time; Choi Hong-Gweon had stomach trouble and never went above BC also; Byen, Heo, Mun and Ryu went to C2.
   
  Sherpa summiters:
    Dawa Sherpa, 25/8/60, Makalu-9, 
    Serap Janbu Sherpa, 25/7/69, Khumjung, Everest X1, Kangch X1, Cho Oyu X2, etc
    Pema Tshering Sherpa, 1/6/70, Makalu-9, Everest X2


  Choi - 12 May 2005:  

  At summit was snow and rock only; later he said there was a one-meter tall pole and Sherpas said this was highest point.


  Peter Guggemos - 11 May 2005

  On fore-summit (8120m) is aluminum pole standing up; on highest summit is a German's body.


  Mrs Nives Meroi - 23 May 2005

  Meroi, Benet and Vuerich (Italian expedition) followed Korean's footsteps till they stopped and turned back 100m below pole on fore-summit, which is at 8120m. Koreans did not reach highest summit.


  Dawa Sherpa - 29 December 2005

  Dawa Sherpa in an interview with Liz Hawley reconfirmed that the Korean team did reach the main summit. He said their team did not stay on the NE Ridge beyond the fore-summit (which would be "too difficult"), but traversed onto the N Face and then climbed to the main summit. He saw on the main summit a white pole (about 2m high), but no prayer flags.

  Liz showed Dawa a picture of the summit ridge area and he traced with his finger their route traversing onto the N Face before getting to the top, which is the correct way to get there.


expid: DRAN05101
peakid: DRAN
year: 2005
route1: W Face-SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Bruce Normand
sponsor: AACZ Rolwaling Expedition 2005
ascent1: 2nd
countries: Italy, Spain, UK, USA
approach: Rolwaling Valley->Beding
bcdate: 2005-04-24
smtdate: 2005-05-10
smttime: 1612
termdate: 2005-05-12
othersmts: Climbed Chekigo (CHEK-051-01) and Ripimo Shar (RIPI-051-01)
campsites: BC(24/04,4800m),ABC(30/04,5500m),C1(09/05,6200m),Smt(10/05)
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC  at Drangnak on west side of Glacier
  ABC Ripimo Shar Shar Glacier, under West Face of Drangnag Ri
  C1  at snowcave.

  After establishing ABC spent a week acclimatizing; Normand and Hartmann climbed point 5965m northwest of ABC and mountain on 1 May and on 3 May all other members climbed it. Normand and Von Rotz to top of point 6705m (Ripimo Shar) on 7th May; very cloudy this afternoon.

  Normand and Hartmann on 8 May to Drangnag Ri. On 9th Vidono and Scarsi left BC to go trekking as planned. On 9th Normand and Hartmann climbed Drangnag Ri's West Face to SW Ridge; at junction of face and ridge put C1 in snowcave after climbing snowfield 50-degree steep and 55-degree ice average some up 80-85 degrees with 14 pitches total up ice. Route had to be abseiled at night or very early in morning so as not to be hit by falling ice and rocks. Hartmann tired so stayed in C1 on 10th while Normand climbed SW Ridge to top, first part badly corniced (too vertical on section) and last 100 vertical meters had snow to top. Left C1 at 11:00 am (had gone to sleep 5:00 am that day) and got to top at 4:12 pm and back to C1 7:00 pm. Clouds came and went. 11th 2:00 pm down to ABC in 10 hours and BC at 6:30 pm. 

  On return to KTM, Von Rotz and Normand on 15 May summited Chekigo, a trekking peak.


expid: EVER05101
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Sato Chieko
sponsor: International Arun Everest Expedition
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->Xigar->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-05
smtdate: 2005-05-28
termdate: 2005-06-01
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to not enough oxygen, sick Sherpa
campsites: BC(06/04,5200m),ABC(11/04,6450m),C1(23/04,7100m),C2(26/05,7700m),C3(28/05,8300m),xxx(28/05,8300m)
accidents: Sonam was altitude sick at C2 (vomiting)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Chieko says that there was not enough oxygen left at C3. She had used 6 bottles and there were only 5 left at C3. However, other climbers on the mountain (Ryan Allen, Ambrose Bittner of Alongi team) say Chieko was just not strong enough and very slow; 

  KTM arrival:   2 June
  KTM departure: 4 June

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Sherpa
    Tenzing Sherpa
    Lhakpa Sherpa
    Sonam Sherpa


expid: EVER05102
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Face (Japanese Couloir)
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Josef Simunek
sponsor: Czech Everest Expedition Himalaya 2004
bcdate: 2005-04-13
smtdate: 2005-05-25
termdate: 2005-05-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(13/04),ABC(18/04,5300m),C1(20/04,6200m),C2(25/05,6900m),xxx(25/05,7100m)
agency: Nepal Trans Himalayan Explorer
routememo:
  ABC on Rongbuk Glacier
  C1 at bottom of North Face below Japanese Couloir
  C2 in crevasse on North Face.

  22 April started up to fix ropes but strong winds, snowfall and avalanching; moved up and down between ABC and C1 eight times from 22 April to 29 May. Fixed 1000m of rope some (600m on pure water ice in lower part of Japanese Couloir). All members reached C2. Without oxygen, need at least 3 days of good weather. Impossible to walk on face more than one at a time, not 2 or more in succession.


expid: EVER05103
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Masakazu Okuda
sponsor: Japanese Spring Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 2005-05-09
smtdate: 2005-05-27
smttime: 0710
termdate: 2005-05-31
othersmts: Attempted Cho Oyu (CHOY-051-34)
campsites: BC(09/05),C1(13/05,6400m),C1(24/05,7050m),C2(25/05,7800m),C3(26/05,8300m),Smt(27/05)
accidents: Kato frostbitten nose and temporary blindness
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Kato climbed without oxygen to top so he made his C2 at 7900m and no C3, while Ukada's C3 was at 7800m because started using oxygen from C1 to top and to C2. Okuda left C3 for top at 1:00 am NST and on top 7:10 am with Phurba Chhiri (Phurba Chhiri used oxygen in C3 to top to 8400m, then gave his oxygen to Kato). Okuda to ABC same day, Phurba Chhiri to C1 that day. 

  Kato left for top from his C2 at 7900m without Sherpa; left C2 at 6:30 pm 26 May and on top at 8:20 am NST; at 8400m lost most of his sight in both eyes at 2:00 pm because of oxygen deprivation; Phurba Chhiri gave his oxygen to Kato and accompanied him and talked him down the fixed rope to C2, sight not improving. Kato got frostbitten nose during night of 26-27 May which was very cold and windy. Slept in C2 and ABC 28 May.

  Sherpa:
    Phurba Chhiri, Saframa, Manaslu, Ever X2, etc


expid: EVER05104
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Serbia
leaders: Miodrag Jovovic
sponsor: Vojvodina Everest Expedition 2005
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-08
smtdate: 2005-05-29
smttime: 0555
termdate: 2005-06-01
campsites: BC(08/04,5170m),ABC(17/04,6400m),C1(21/04,7042m),C2(25/04,7800m),C3(01/05,8300m),Smt(29/05)
accidents: Ferlan suffered from left leg (calf) split (cramped on May 29 at 8400m); frostbite Kami's fingers
achievment: 1st ascent by Serbian expedition
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 16th at 5700m
  C1 at North Col.

  The aim was to put up on summit four climbers of the expedition namely Bite, Ferlan, Luhovic and Planic. Accordingly the four members and two Sherpas Dawa Gel and Kami, left ABC on May 26 and slept in C1. 27th C1 to C2. Use oxygen for sleep by all members and Sherpas. On May 28th C2 to C3. Left C3 at midnight CST summit by Planic, Dawa Gel and Kami Sherpa at 08:10 CST (5:55 am NST) of May 29. Descended to C2 about 4 pm. Next day to ABC.

  Norwegian climbers were on summit before Planic's team. There were about 10 to 12 people on summit. Weather was good clear sky, light wind, small patch of cloud. Planic stayed on summit about 20 minutes. After 11:30 am CST wind started blowing. 

  Other members: 
    Bite turned back between 8300-8400m without oxygen - he was tired. 
    Ferlan had turned around from 8400m to C3 due to pulled muscle of his left leg
     calf. 
    Luhovic turned around from 8400m due to tiredness. 

  Momic left Nepal on April 17 due to blood pressure problem. 
  Erdeljan and Jovovic stayed in ABC. 

  The expedition returned to KTM on June 2 and leaves on 5th.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Gelu, Makalu-4, 18/6/73 - summited Everest from northside without 
      oxygen in 2004
    Kami, 29/6/56 - first time Everest summit. Frostbite four fingers of right hand. 
      He is using medicine and may be Ok. Doctor said wait for a week to see 
      the effect of medicine

  Both Sherpas from Makalu Area.


expid: EVER05105
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Padubidre Nagesh Ganesh Rao
sponsor: Independent climber
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-18
smtdate: 2005-06-03
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2005-06-07
campsites: BC(18/04,5500m),ABC(27/04,6300m),C1(03/05,7300m),C2(13/05,7900m),C3(21/05,8300m),Smt(03/06)
achievment: 1st person to summit from Karnataka State
agency: Parikarma Treks
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 25th at 5900m
  C1 at North Col (little higher).

  June 2 Ganesh and Nuru Sherpa left C2 at 11 am (NST); arrived C3 at about 7 pm. Then started from C3 at 11 pm. Punuru had to turn around because Ganesh had to use Punuru's oxygen as his oxygen was finished. Ganesh reached summit at 10 am of June 3, stayed on summit about 15 minutes. Descended to C3 where he reached at 1:30 pm then continued to C2 with Punuru where they reached at 5 pm and slept, next day to ABC. Before him at the summit were Dutch and Sherpa and Spanish people and Sherpas (Russell Brice's team) behind Ganesh there were 3 or people. Ganesh took flags of 192 countries - member of U.N. Weather was windy on the summit. Next, he wants to climb Everest from south side. Ganesh returned to KTM on June 8 and probably will leave on 11th.


  P. N. Ganesh's Everest summit claim  (E. Hawley, 21 July 2005)

  P. N. Ganesh, an Indian police officer whose name is actually Ganesh Nagesh Rao, says he summited Everest on 3 June, 2005. He climbed via the North Col. His account is as follows. At first he had a Sherpa, Phu Nuru from Kharikhola, with him, but he says Phu Nuru got diarrhea  and cough and went with him only to the North Col; Phu Nuru was replaced by another man who he says was named Ang Rita, who went as high as the Second step (about 8600m) on their summit push on the 3rd of June, then turned back because of their dwindling oxygen supply. Ganesh went on alone to the top and got there at about 10:00 am.

  The problem is that the date and time he says he summited, and the nationalities of the people who he reports were with him on the top, were not there, according the other teams reports of their own movements. Also his second Sherpa was not named Ang Rita.

  The only other summiters that day were a Briton, a Norwegian, two South Africans and three Nepalese Sherpas from the Jagged Globe expedition led by the Brit, David Hamilton, and they had left the summit two and half hours before he says he arrived. In any case, he says there were just four others, two of them Sherpas, with him on the top. (The Jagged Globe people had stayed there for about an hour).

  Furthermore, he thinks his fellow summiters were Dutch and Spanish as well as two Sherpas, whereas the only Dutch summiters went to the top on the 2nd and 4th of June, and the only Spaniards summited on the 21st and 30th of May. He was sure the two Sherpas were with Russell Brice's expedition, but that team's members and Sherpas were on the summit only on the 4th and 5th of June. (Brice had no Dutch or Spanish members at all).

  Ganesh had no doubt that his summit date was the 3rd of June. He says the time was 10:00 am; he had no watch with him but his Sherpas, whom he calls Ang Rita, told him it was 10:00 am. How did the Sherpa know at what time he summited when the Sherpa had turned back at 8600m, and a person at the summit cannot be seen from anywhere above the North Col below a rock ledge at about 8800m?

  Ganesh's second Sherpa was assigned to him by Asian Trekking, whose permit he climbed on by arrangement with his trekking agency, Parikarma treks. Dawa of Asian Trekking, who looks after their teams on the north side of Everest, said on 21 July the Sherpa was Nima Gyalzen from Beding, who had summited Everest four times, most recently with the Indian navy in the spring of 2004, a team Asian Trekking handled. (Dawa knows no climber named Ang Rita who is currently climbing). Dawa met Ganesh and Nima Gyalzen when they came back to KTM from Everest, and Nima Gyalzen said Ganesh had been on the top. How did he know that? Ganesh had told him.


  Nawang Pasang (Jagged Globe summiter on 3 June 2005) said on 31 July 2005

  "I am sure no one else [besides Jagged Globe Team] went to summit that day [3 June 2005]." He left summit at about 9:30 am he thinks (but is vague about time) and met no one coming up for top as he descended to ABC the same day. He met Russell Brice's group moving up from 7800m to 8300m that day, he says (correctly).


  Nima Gyalzen (by telephone) - 16 Aug 2005

  Nima Gyalzen said that he went with Ganesh up to 7500m or so and then turned back because it was very cold and windy. He does not know whether Ganesh got to the summit or not, he volunteered and repeated several times. (He sounded as though he had been asked this question often).


expid: EVER05118
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Jacek Teler
sponsor: Monterosa International Everest Expedition 2005
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-04
smtdate: 2005-05-29
termdate: 2005-06-02
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(04/04,5200m),ABC(09/04,6350m),C1(15/04,7000m),C2(25/04,7700m),C3(17/05,7800m),xxx(29/05,8000m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Teler left C3 at 9 am (NST) on May 29, reached 8000m at 11 am, got sore throat (respiratory  problem), then turned around to ABC at 6 pm. Teler wanted to summit without oxygen and Sherpa support with three camps solo.

  Orcholski to C1 April 20 at 7000m. About May 20 went up to 7600m and he gave up due to weather conditions (strong wind) and turned back to C1.

  Both returned to KTM on June 2 and will leave on 4th.


expid: EVER05107
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Martin Minarik
sponsor: Martin Minarik Everest Expedition 2005
bcdate: 2005-04-22
smtdate: 2005-06-02
termdate: 2005-06-03
termnote: Abandoned at 8450m due to bad weather (high winds) and exhaustion
campsites: BC(22/04,5200m),ABC(25/04,6450m),C1(02/05,7100m),C2(03/05,7700m),C3(30/05,8300m),xxx(02/06,8450m)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  Minarik left C3 at midnight and reached high point at 2 am. He turned back because it was too windy and he had very cold feet. He went back down to ABC and arrived there at midnight.


expid: EVER05108
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Finland
leaders: Veli-Pekka Molsa
sponsor: Everest 2005 Expedition
approach: By helicopter to Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-08
smtdate: 2005-05-20
termdate: 2005-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 8630m due to tiredness, weather, no fixed line
campsites: BC(08/04,5200m),ABC(12/04,6400m),C1(21/04,7100m),C2(16/05,7700m),C3(19/05,8300m),xxx(20/05,8630m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on April 11 at 5821m
  C1 at North Col (little higher)
  High point at below the 2nd Step.

  May 15 Leino, Molsa, Myllys and Soulanen started from ABC to C1. May 16 all four members to C1. May 18 three members slept in C2. May 19 Suolanen turned around to ABC and Leino and Myllys went to C3. They found it was very difficult to find a place to put their tent at C3. May 20 Leino and Myllys left C3 at 2 am (NST), reached 1st Step at 7 am. They did not find fixed line there. Leino contacted Molsa at ABC and told about non-existence of fixed line. Molsa went to Russell Brice and told him about the fixed line. Brice told Molsa that no fixed ropes were done because of frostbite of three fingers on one of the Sherpas who went up to put the fixed line returned due to bad weather and frostbite. This information was not give to the Finnish expedition and they were under the impression that the high altitude line were fixed as agreed upon by Russell Brice at the all expedition meeting held earlier. Brice politely regretted the situation that the two Finnish climbers had to face at that altitude. Then they passed the 1st Step. By the time the two climbers reached the 2nd Step (8630m), it was their turn around time 12:30 pm. Both climbers descended to C2.

  Oxygen: 
    Leino C2 to 2nd Step to C2 for climbing and sleeping. 
    Molsa: C1 to C2 for climbing and sleeping.
    Myllys: C1 to 2nd Step to C2 for climbing and sleeping.
    Suolanen: C1 to C2 for climbing and sleeping.

  High points:
    Jarvinen up to C2 on April 26.
    Karinen up to C1 on April 21.
    Lehtinen up to C2 on April 21.

  Molsa said the expedition had enough ropes and other kits to make the necessary fixed line in high altitude. But all were left at CBC as they were told that those ropes and kits were not necessary because Brice agreed to put up the fixed line. Later Brice paid back the money to Finnish expedition.

  The expedition returned to KTM on May 26 and will leave on May 24.

  The weather condition on summit push day was good (May 20).


expid: EVER05109
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Keiichi Takeuchi
sponsor: Japanese Everest Expedition Kobuchisawa
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-23
smtdate: 2005-05-21
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2005-05-25
campsites: BC(23/04,5200m),ABC(28/04,6450m),C1(01/05,7000m),C2(19/05,7700m),C3(20/05,8300m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  Takeuchi left C3 at 12:40 am with 2 Sherpas. Climb was  was straightforward even thogh the weather was bad (wind and clouds); however it was clear when they reached the summit. They could see all the way to Namche. When Takeuchi went up, they saw a Slovenian man, who later died 50m below the summit. He was on his way and seemed okay.

  Sherpas:
    Karma Gelge Sherpa, Bhusinga, Okhaldhunga, 8 Oct 1970, summited wth Takeuchi
    Dawa Sherpa, Tapting-9, Solu, 22/5/71, no 8000ers, turned around 
      at 8600m due to cold   

  Takeuchi arrived KTM on 25 May and leaves for Japan on 26 May.


expid: EVER05110
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Josef Kubicek
sponsor: International Everest Expedition
countries: Czech Republic
bcdate: 2005-04-27
smtdate: 2005-05-29
smttime: 0925
termdate: 2005-06-01
othersmts: Kubicek attempted Cho Oyu (CHOY-051-05)
campsites: BC(27/04),ABC(02/05,6400m),C1(04/05,7066m),C2(05/05,7700m),C3(28/05,8300m),xxx(29/05)
agency: Nepal Trans Himalayan Explorer
primid: CHOY05105
routememo:
  Kubicek went to Everest from Cho Oyu and got to 7200m on 22 May then strong wind and down; got chest infection and left expedition with Valenya who also had chest infection. Valenya went to 6700m twice on 10 May with Svergun and Bershov helping them and again on 23 May when he got sick. Svergun and Bershov to make summit bid 30 May.


  Svergun - 3 June 2005

  Svergun and Bershov left C3 for top at 4:00 am Chinese time and arrived at top 11:40 am (9:25 am NST) and return C3 3:00 pm, then to sleep in C2 at 5:00 pm. Used oxygen intermittently in C2, then to C3 to top to C2. ABC on 30th May. No health problems.

  Bershov went to Everest now for his third ascent because has been climbing with Svergun for 15 years and wanted to make this attempt by Svergun to be successful.


expid: EVER05111
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Bhutan
leaders: Karma Gyeltshen
sponsor: Arun Everest Expedition 2005
bcdate: 2005-04-03
smtdate: 2005-05-21
termdate: 2005-05-25
campsites: BC(03/04,5200m),ABC(10/04,6450m),C1(29/04,7000m),C2(19/05,7700m),C3(20/05,8300m),Smt(21/05)
accidents: Retinal hemorrhage climbing up from C3 on left eye due to altitude
achievment: 1st Bhutanese to climb Everest
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Karma left C3 around midnight and reached summit shortly after Marco (Slovenian) on the descent. He saw Marco at about 50m below the summit. He was sitting down and resting and told Karma to move on. A day later he was found dead.

  Karma carried his things himself to North Col. He then paid 2 Sherpas (he did not want to give names) to carry his things to 8300m. It was windy at summit but clear. No one else was on top when he was there and he has no pictures (his camera batteries had frozen).


  9 June - Members of UK Everest (North) Expedition said Gyeltshen's summit claim was doubted by climbers at ABC; he was not strong or expert climber, he moved very slowly and elapsed time he gave was inconsistent with his expedition.


expid: EVER05112
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Um Hong-Gil
sponsor: 2005 Korean Chomlongma Human Expedition
bcdate: 2005-04-07
smtdate: 2005-05-29
termdate: 2005-06-05
campsites: BC(07/04),ABC(14/04,6300m),C1(17/04,7100m),C2(27/05,7900m),C3(28/05,8300m),Smt(29/05)
accidents: Mingma Tamang frostbitten fingers (not serious)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  High point (for Koreans) at above 3rd Step.

  Long time after C1 established to occupy C1 because many days of bad wind and also because took much time to carry up much baggage for C2 and C3. Expedition's purpose was to bring down bodies of Koreans who died in May 2004. Found one body only, Park Mu-Taek at 8750m lying on his back, clipped into fixed rope; searched wide area of North face but could not find other 2 bodies. Brought Park's body down to 8600m and here moved stones in area to clear place for body and covered it with stones, built small cairn, brief ceremony in which Um cried for old friend and put his own gloves on Park's hands which he was without gloves. Um down to ABC same day with all Sherpas at 9:00 pm.

  2 Sherpas in search party rushed up to top same day. Purpose of this expedition was not to climb Everest to summit but to bring down the bodies of the 3 Koreans who had died there on 18 May 2004.

  Oxygen: 
    Sherpas: same in C3, all from C3 to high points to and in C3, same below C3. 
    Um in C2 to high point to and in C2 most of the time. 
    Sherpa summiters from 8300m to top to 8300m. 
    Other Sherpas: some from 7900m to 8750m to 7900m; others from 8300m up to 8800m

  Summit Sherpas:
    Phur Gyalzen, Thami, 16/4/70, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X2
    Then Dorje, Pangboche, Everest X1


expid: EVER05113
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Major S. S. Shekhawat
sponsor: Indian Women Everest Expedition 2005
countries: Nepal
bcdate: 2005-04-04
smtdate: 2005-06-02
smttime: 0615
termdate: 2005-06-04
campsites: BC(04/04,5200m),ABC(10/04,6400m),C1(15/04,7050m),C2(27/04,7700m),C3(01/06,8300m),Smt(02/06)
accidents: Only Majumdar's acute exhaustion
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  From end of April to 21 May completed stocking high camps C2 and C3 when weather permitted; male members and Sherpas carried up loads while female members carried none. 1 male member came from high altitudes while most women from plains and needed separate program acclimatizing and getting strong).

  1st summit party left C3 on 1 June 2:45 pm, NST: Bhutia, Lhamo, Ladol, Majumdar, Negi, Pawar, Shekhawat, Kaman Singh and Surjeet Singh and 6 Sherpas on top 6:15 am to 8:00 and 10:30 am and all to C3. Majumdar on top at 10:20 am exhausted, so 2nd summit party was assigned to bring her to C3 and did 3:00 am of 3 June, sometimes carrying her on their back, sometimes belaying her. Now climbing finished. Members in rescue party were Khatri, Palden and Yountens with Pasang Tendi.

  Oxygen use by summit party: all members up from C1 to top to C1; Sherpas in C2 to top to and in C3.

  Summit Sherpas:
    Tshering Dorje, 25/10/74, Beding, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X2
    Damai Chhiri, 19/6/75, Sikli, near Kharikhola, Everest X1, Kangch X1
    Serap, 8/8/72, Beni VDC, Everest X1
    Pemba Gyalzen, 1972, Beding, Everest X1 (brother of Nima Gyalzen)
    Nima Gyalzen, 9/8/85, Beding, 1st 8000er (brother of Pemba Gyalzen)
    Ang Kami, 22/8/83, Kurima, 1st 8000er

  Other Sherpas:
    Pasang Tendi, 23/01/74, Kharikhola, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1


expid: EVER05114
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Pavel Trcala
sponsor: Independent climber
bcdate: 2005-04-27
smtdate: 2005-05-30
termdate: 2005-06-01
campsites: BC(27/04,6400m),ABC(01/05,7000m),C1(06/05,7000m),C2(28/05,7700m),C3(29/05,8300m),Smt(30/05)
accidents: Snowblindness
agency: Nepal Trans Himalayan Explorer
routememo:
  Email to Miss Hawley - June 21, 2005

  Our ABC was at 6400m between the Monterosa Treks and Seven Summits camps. I used some of the English oxygen between on the way (second time-first time was just skiing without oxygen) from C1 and C2. Then I slept without oxygen at C2, but I climbed with the English oxygen next day. At C3 I found the Russian oxygen. The English oxygen regulator froze or it became malfunctioning between C3 (8300m) and the ridge. Unknowingly I climbed on the ridge with not functioning oxygen. Luckily, on the ridge I switched for the Russian type and continued. Maybe there was not enough pressure, or that regulator was leaking. I was using it on limited flow, but it ran out on my way down. It must have been somewhere around the steps. Maybe it was empty when I fell. At 8600m I fell after making all the steps on the ridge. The slope was not vertical, but it was very steep. I would guess that I fell when I was in the middle of the rope, maybe five meters on each side.


  Letter to Chinese Ambassador from Pavel Trcala

  I was invited to join our expedition as a support climber. My acclimatization went very well and I felt strong. Another of our climbers, with permit to climb to the summit, experienced health problems and had to return home before climbing beyond the Advanced BC. Later a fellow climber, who was filming a document for the Polish National Television, asked me for help. He had his professional camera high on the mountain in C2, but he himself had to return to the BC, because of altitude sickness.

  As the camera contained priceless footage of one of the most beautiful mountains in the world he asked me if I could try to find it and bring it down for him. I was feeling well and I wanted to help my friend as well. I recovered the camera and reached C3 at 8300m. After a long thought, I decided to continue and attempt for the summit. My spontaneous decision was motivated by my love for mountains and not by any commercial of publicity aspects. Considering how high I was on the mountains, I accepted this life opportunity. I understand that I have acted against the regulations, but humans act emotionally at this extreme altitude.

  It had been my childhood dream to climb your highest mountain, but this year I wanted to come below Chomolongma only to learn more about it. I planned to participate as a summit climber later in life. I would have never imagined that I would have the chance to achieve my childhood dream at the young age of 27. I am fully aware that, by climbing to the summit, I broke regulations of your beautiful Chomolongma National Park. I am honestly ashamed and I would like to full heartedly apologize and find a solution for my trespasses.

  In order to show my sincere regret, I am ready to volunteer my assistance in your next cleaning expedition or in your European tourism promotion campaign. China is a global sport leader and I would not like to stand out as a negative example in mountaineering and sports in general.


  Email from Pavel Trcala to Miss Hawley - 20 June 2005

  The media here in the Czech Republic are full of my story every day. I am being portrayed as a hero to the amateur climbers. On the other hand, I am being portrayed as a "villain" by a small group of professional climbers.

  These three or four climbers started a really agressive media campaign against me. I understand they are upset about my unauthorized climb and I am trying to do everything I can to apologize and rectify my actions.

  But now they are saying that I never reached the summit and I just want to be famous. They say that I am cheating and my summit photos were done by a laughable montage. It is interesting to note that these are voices of the climbers, who tried, but never reached the summit themselves.

  I do not need to prove anything to anybody. The important thing is to find a solution to my situation regarding my unauthorized climb. However, out of respect to my parents, who live here, I need to clear my name. The media look for sensations. It is not easy for them to see their son portrayed as a liar in national media. I am sure you understand that this is a difficult situation for them. I will be trying to show proofs of evidence of my climb at the press conference on Wednesday in Prague. Estimating by the information on Everest News, I believe that Mr Scott Wazny is the climber who took my pictures, it would be really helpful to have a brief witness statement from him.

  I am being accused that it is impossible to be on top of Everest in a fleece jacket and without gloves. It would also be very nice of you to provide a short note stating that summit pictures in a fleece jacket and without gloves are possible and have been done before.


  Czech Everest, Spring 2005, Pavel Trcala - 8 June 2005

  Russian climbers Alexander Abramov, Nicolai Cherny and Andrei Selivanov (expedition doctor):

  Cherny met Trcala on 30 May at 8700m as Trcala was going up for the summit and Cherny was coming down from it. Cherny was suprised to see him there because he understood that Trcala had a permit to go only to the North Col. (Trekking agent Pasang Dawa, Sherpa of Nepal Trans- Himalayan Explorers said 8 June Trcala's permit was for advance base camp only -- he was a member of a trekking group associated with the Czech-Ukrainian Everest expedition led by Josef Kubicek). Cherny saw him again when he had returned to C3 after dark and was looking for a tent to sleep in since he had none of his own. Trcala spent the night in another team's unoccupied tent.

  Trcala had an eye problem and asked Sherpas with a Japanese team to take him to the Russian doctor. Selivanov said he was suffering from snowblindness and Trcala merely pretended not to know about this affliction. It had been snowing steadily during his descent and he had taken off his dark glasses so he could see better while climbing down. The Russians kitchen boy carried Trcala's backpack for him during his last night on the mountain in his hurry to reach base camp and catch a departing Jeep. (He got there too late).

  Cherny thinks Trcala did reach the summit: Trcala was in good condition; it was snowing but that presented no problem about orientation, and the elapsed time between his own meetings with Trcala on 30 May was consistent with his having summited. He had gotten well acclimatized from several climbs to the North Col. He "had all the possibilities" to have have reached the summit, and Cherny, Abramov and Selivano don't believe he would make a false claim. They definitely believe his summit claim.

  They all agreed that Trcala is not entire sane. "He is too emotional," said Abramov. "But he is certainly sane enough to know where was on the mountain."

  Trcala had skis with him and on 26th May Sergei Bershov and Igor Svergun of the Czech-Ukrainian expedition agreed to go with him from advance base camp to the North Col to take pictures of him skiing down from 7500m. Trcala had no skis with him higher on the mountain.


  Email to Miss Hawley from Pavel - 10 June 2005

  I arrived in KTM on the 21st of April. AFter the drive and several days in the Tingri, I believe we reached the BC around 27th of April.

  The dates on which you first slept in advance base camp and in each higher camp.

  After few days hiking up around BC, we left for ABC on the 1st of May, I spent the entire month until the 31st in the ABC or higher. My collegues went down to BC for rest two times but had me watch the ABC camp and did not take me down. I only wnet up to C1 once before the summit attempt. Initially, I only planned to ski from the snowline (7500m) so I did not think it was necessary to do more acclimatization trips up, I spent only one night at C1 around the 5th of May.

  In the free time I went snowkiting on the glacier. I am really into kite-surfing and snow-kiting. These are sports when you ride on the water or snow and you have a big kite, like a parachute, pulling you. I wanted to set a record and be the highest to practice this sport. I believe I set the world record snowkiting at 6500m.

  C1 (North Col around 7000m)
  C2 (7700m)
  C3 (8300m)

  We had our own tents in all camps.

  In C1, my collegues went up and I went skiing on the snowy part between C1 and C2. I skied and then stashed my skis high so I would not have to carry them again the next day. I also first met Gerlinde climbing up from the other side. At North Col I met my Polish friend Przemek (he let others call him Andy because of the difficult pronunciation of his name). He was very weak and needed to go down.

  But he had to take a tent, which was all frozen in. I felt strong and got the tent out of the ice for him.

  Przemek is a professional film maker and he had his expensive camera up on the mountain. The Sherpas wanted a thousand dollars to bring it down. He said that if I can bring it down, I can have his oxygen. This was my big chance.

  Next day I went to C2 at 7700m. I cooked and slept and I was feeling well. I reached C3 pretty early in the afternoon on the 29th. I cooked and rested. I planned to leave aournd 10 pm, but suddenly my torch stopped working. I tried to fix it or get another but with no success. I got delayed and I left C3 around midnight. In the end I had to go without a light.

  But my real problem was the summit oxygen. Unknowingly, I climbed to the ridge without functioning. My friend doctor Julian Thompson was coming behind and saw me. He said I was having cerebral edema and should return. I said I would just try a little bit to the ridge. I was extremely slow and reached the ridge at sunrise.

  I knew about the potential problems with summit and I also had the Poisk in my backpack. I switched the oxygen and became a new man. Suddenly I could breathe well and accelerated my ascent. I even passed some people and reached the summit. I believe around 11 am (Peking time) on the 30th of May. I had beautiful weather; I could even take off my down jacket and gloves for the summit picture.

  There was a big group of I believe Korean climbers and I also met one guide who said it was his forth or fifth time. He said he was with an Argentinean group but he sounded American. Another American climber took my pictures and I took his with a sign saying something about a Middle School in Oregon. I told him that Oregon was my favorite state, because I skied and surfed there in one day. They all climbed from Nepal.
    
  But the weather got really bad on the descent. Just after summiting, I met again the one Indian climber with Sherpa at the end of the ropes. They asked me how much more and I said about twenty minutes. They went for it it. I learned that only the Sherpa came back.

  Climbing down, my vision was bad and it was very cloudy and snowing hard. There are many ropes I accidently clicked into an older one. Going in crampons on the rocks with snow, I slipped and fell. The rope broke. I held the rope with both hands for extra safety but my right hand slipped. I was weak, so only God gave me the extra strength in my left hand, which gripped the rope and prevented the involuntary ten thousand foot toboggan ride.

  On the descent I had very little oxygen. The Russian bottles were not full or the regulator was slowly leaking. I used it at minimum level or not at all.

  I had no Sherpa. Our yaks came a week early by mistake. We had to send our camp down along with the Sherpas already on May 26th. I was supposed to be the Sherpa for my collegues, but then I could not see well and had to pay somebody to take my backpack. I was also bringing back the heavy professional camera, which I got it in exchange for the oxygen from my Polish friend.
     
  I just had a thorough check and test yesterday and according to the doctor, I had snow blindness. The doctor here at home said I was lucky that I was generally very healthy and my body healed it alone with no permanent damage. Now that I remember, I maybe had first symptoms already on the 29th, but the worst pain came during the descent on May 30th.

  I have to say first that it was a result of my ignorance and carelessness. My mask was too big and the goggles did not fit. They were fogging up all the time. So when it was not sunny, I just put them on my forehead to see. Not considering that the dangerous UV rays get through the fog and reflect off the snow. Subsequently, the night after my summit day at 8300m was the worst night of my life.

  Being cold was Ok, being the the whole night without oxygen was Ok, but eyes would not stop hurting for one second. I cried and probably bother other climberes for help or some drops, but nobody would get out of the tent. I cannot blame anybody, because it was snowing hard and wind was extremely strong.

  With first indication of day break I cooked soup and left early as possible. Nobody helped me with my eyes, but then Gerlinde from Austria appeared like a good princess from fairy tale at 7900m. My vision was so blurry, I could not recognize her, but she told me to lay down and quickly got her drops. It was better for about half hour. But then I had to ski.

  Luckily I already skied the run before during my one day wait on the North Col, so I knew what to expect. Plus I clicked in for safety. I used to race skiing, but this was the worst style I ever showed on the slopes. But better lame and safe than cool and sorry.

  At North Col, the Indians were very nice to me like always and gave me food and more eye drops. I also taped my goggles, so there would be as little light as possible. I was wearing one pair of small goggles under a big pair of skiing goggles.

  In ABC Julian Thompson diagnosed me right away and treated me. He said it would heal. I was really scared: my mom teaches blind children and I could see all the potential danger. Andrej, the doctor from Seven Summits also helped me.

  I arrived in ABC on the evening of May 31st. The car was leaving from BC on June 1st at 7 am. I told my collegues that I would be there.

  One Tibetan kitchen boy was going down that night and for hundred dollars he lead me down to ABC. The blind walk was harder than I thought. Seeing was hard, but holding the hand of the kitchen boy, I somehow adjusted. The problem was that I had not slept for many nights and so I was just falling asleep in the middle of walking.

  I somehow suppressed my tiredness and we were making good time and the kitchen boy wanted to say hello to his friend in Middle Camp. He was talking and talking and I fell asleep. I woke up two hours later and he was still talking to his friend. We had to rush.

  The walk was somewhat emotional. There was a special bond that developed between us and the boy held my hand at the end even in the flat part. He was watching over me. Eventually, we made it to BC exactly on time for the car, only to learn that my group left a half hour before schedule and put other passengers into my place. They also did not think I would need money or passport. All that was simply left in my luggage and taken away.

  So here I was, blind, without passport and money 5000 km from a Beijing embassy in a country where travel without money or passport is not exactly recommended. I paid the kitchen boy, returned the camera, and all I was left with was my summit day outfit. I was thankful for a breakfast at the Serbian expedition and the officer was nice enough to call Tingri to them to wait for me. My sight was still bad and I think he wanted to help me. Suddenly he said he will take me there. We hopped in a car going to the border.

  But there we were told that they did not wait for me. After all, they filled up the car with others, so they had no room for me. They raced me all the way to the border. Again, my Guardian Angel was working overtime. My group was just crossing when we arrived. Five more minutes and I would be ready for "Seven Years in Tibet."

  But God wanted me to go home and it all worked out. I arrived at home on the same day with my sister, who just graduated from college, so our parents can be double proud. I was told that I am historically the fifth Czech to climb Everest. I also skied and set the record in snow-kiting.

  I am extremely happy and also lucky. I guess it is kind of unfair when you think other climbers have sponsors and spend fortunes and then have bad luck. To describe my success, luck is not a strong word, I can only say God's Providence was on my side.

  My parents are happy I am safe at home. They followed the other Czech groups on the internet and saw their big sponsors, best equipment, internet reporting... My parents are amused and cannot believe that I made it in the old jacket from my dad and borrowed boots, crampons, pants from my friends. In fact I still cannot believe it myself. Now I will spend some time with my sister and my parents and then I have to find a job.


expid: EVER05115
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Alexander Abramov
sponsor: Seven Summits Club to Everest
countries: Netherlands, Slovenia, UK, Ukraine, USA
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-14
smtdate: 2005-05-21
smttime: 0745
termdate: 2005-06-06
achievment: Oldest Russian climber of Everest (Cherny)
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(14/04,5100m),ABC(18/04,6300m),C1(22/04,7050m),C2(02/05,7700m),C3(03/05,8300m),Smt(21,30/05,02/06)

routememo:
  BC  at 5100m Cherny and all Sherpas
  ABC at 6300m all Sherpas 20 Apr
  C1  at 7050m all Sherpas or members 23 Apr.

  Note: All times below are Chinese times (CST).

  21/05 Mlinar and Lihteneker from 8300m, Mlinar on top at 10:00, Lihteneker 
        probably at 11:00 without oxygen; above 8600m on the way down slipped on 
        fixed rope and hit his head or heart attack or both. They were followed 
        by 15 Chinese climbers.

  30/05 Ovasapyan from 8300m at 00:30, on top at 6:15, stayed for 1 hour to
        take photo with Pemba Tenzing, went down to ABC at 18:30 using oxygen.
   
        Skaller from 8300m at 00:45, on top 10:45, back to 8300m at 13:00.
        Mingma Gelu Sherpa.

        Cherny, Pokhvalin, Iakovenko from 8300m at 01:15, on top 8:20-8:30,
        stayed for 30 min, back to 8300m at 13:00. Pasang Sherpa.

        Dusharin, Tadaykov from 8300m at 01:15, on top 10:30, stayed for 
        1 hour, met 15 pax from south side (English & Slovenian language).
        Pasang Tenzing Sherpa.

  02/06 Moskalev, Mingma Nurbu from 8300m at 02:00, on top at 8:30 am, met Lhakpa 
        Dorje and pax USA from south, 1 hour on top, back to 7700m at 19:00.

        Christiana, Rinjen from 8300m at 2:00, on top 14:00, back to 8000m at 16:30.

        Kikstra, Lakcha Sange from 8300m at 2:00, on top 14:00, back to 8300m at
        23:00 carried by Sherpa. 

  Stark and Hanna went up to North Col, left BC 17:05 due to Hanna's eye hemorrhage.


  Alex Abramov - 12 April 2006

  Marko Lihteneker used oxygen from C2 7800m till summit. His oxygen finished near summit and he descent without oxygen. He died on 3rd step (8700m).


  Abramov - 10 April 2005 (from Russian source)

  Our expedition reached to Tibet and today, on April 10, we moved from Zangmu to Nyalam. On the whole everything is OK.
   
  An accident took place on the road between Kathmandu and Kodari on the way to Tibet border. As in Nepal the strike is declared till April, 12, the Maoists are blocking the roads prevent from moving traffic. Therefore a special military escort was organized to convoy and provide safety of our expedition that headed to the Tibet border. The expedition main group had left for earlier and the two climbers, Sergei Kaimanchikov and Alexander Abramov were trying to catch up with their group when a group of unknown people threw self-made explosives at their vehicle. As result of the terrorist act both of Russians were contused, and Kaimanchikov received a severe leg injury. 

  The military troops helped to organize immediate evacuation by helicopter to Katmandu. Sergei was brought to the hospital and operated. Now he is in normality. Alexander stayed in Kathmandu to help Sergey. In a week Sergei is going to be sent to Moscow, and after that Alexander will join the expedition. Nikolai Cherny is acting as the expedition leader at present.

accidents:
  Pokhvalin frostbitten left foot; Kikstra eye hemorrhage; Gariano temporary lost of eyesight at 8600m; Lihteneker death


expid: EVER05116
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Marnie Pearsall, Nelson Snyder, Vincent Waters
sponsor: Monterosa International Everest Expedition 2005 (3 independents)
countries: Canada
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-03
smtdate: 2005-04-30
termdate: 2005-05-27
termnote: Abandoned due to various sicknesses
campsites: BC(03/04),(see route details)
accidents: Waters high altitude retinal hemorrhage on April 20 at ABC
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Marnie Pearsall:

  BC(03/04),ABC(08/04),C1(26/04,7050m),xxx(26/04,7150m)
  Abandoned at 7150m due to sickness 
  Left BC 09/05
  No Sherpas above BC

  On 26 April Pearsall went up from C1 entirely alone to find how high she could go because had giardia and chest infection and down to ABC same day. Now got sickness with cough very bad.


  Nelson Snyder:

  BC(04/04,5200m),ABC(09/04,6400m),xxx(09/04,6400m)
  Abandoned at 6400m due to high altitude sickness 
  Left BC 12/04
  No Sherpas above BC

  Snyder's goal was to climb Everest without oxygen and medicines (Diamox, etc). But, while climbing to BC headache started; it became severe while climbing to ABC. Gradually pain shifted to middle of his spinal cord and he started losing vision. Dr. Pearsall (another member of the collection) put Snyder on oxygen and she might had given Diamox shot. Next day, April 10, Snyder felt good and he decided to give up climbing as his goal of climbing Everest without oxygen and medicines was already vanished. Descended to CBC with other two trekkers and had no problem. Snyder is feeling better and normal. He think, if he made slow pace for acclimatization that may have been Ok. Snyder said he had sold his house and left job to come to Everest. He will leave Nepal on April 10.


  Vincent Waters:

  BC(04/04,5200m),ABC(09/04,6350m),C1(17/04,7000m),C2(29/04,7500m),xxx(30/04,7700m)
  Abandoned at 7700m (did not intend to try for summit due to retinal hemorrhage)
  Left BC 27/05
  No Sherpas above BC

  Despite doctor's advice Water's went up to 7700m, but not for summit attempt. Waters returned to KTM on May 27 and will leave for Delhi on June 9.


expid: EVER05106
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Gheorghe Dijmarescu
sponsor: Independent team on Everest
countries: Nepal
bcdate: 2005-04-10
smtdate: 2005-06-02
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2005-06-05
campsites: BC(10/04),ABC(14/04,6400m),C2(7500m),C3(30/05,8300m),Smt(02/06)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Email from Billi Bierling - 16 June 2005

  Gerfried Goeschl left C2 (7850m) at 5 am. He was on his own and climbed without his Sherpa, Nima Gyalgen from Gaurishankar. They had an argument at ABC and Goeschl dismissed him (his reasons were that Nima wanted a more money and said he did not want to climb to the summit with Goeschi as he wanted to go with Ganesh from India, who had apparently offered him more money). On his way up Goeschl did not meet anybody and he was on the summit (he has pictures to prove it). He put a potato on the summit. Hans Goger from Austria, who summited a day later, saw it.

  Goeschl stayed on the summit for 10 minutes and descended to C3, where he arrived at 10 pm. He met Gheorghe Dijmarescu, who gave him a tent to sleep in. Goeschl was very dehydrated when he got to C3 and he could not boil any water as he did not have a lighter so he did not drink anything all night. He also felt mentally quite exhausted. The next day he descended down to ABC, where he arrived at 10 pm. On his way he stopped at 8100m where he had two cups of tea with the Brazilian team. He met Dijmarescu again at 7900m. Dijmarescu was on his way down from the summit. He was with his wife Lakpa and his Sherpa.

  Goeschl was still very exhausted when he arrived at ABC on 2nd June and the doctor of the Indian army team gave his some cortisone and told him, he should take some oxygen but Goeschl refused as he did not want to lose his "without oxygen" title.


  Information on Gheorghe Dijmarescu

  According to Goeschl, Gheorghe Dijmarescu summit on 2nd June together with his wife Lakpa and one Sherpa early in the morning - around 6 am. They were using oxygen.

  Goeschl met him again on 2nd June at around 7900m at around 10 am. Dijmarescu's team were on their way down.

  Dijmarescu and Lakpa descended to ABC that day but accompanied Goeschl to the North Col. From there they went on a bit faster and left Goeschl behind. They met again at ABC. Dijmarescu stayed at ABC for another day and descended to BC on the 4th June.

  Goeschi told me that Hans Goger from Austria summited with Dijmarescu so if we need more information on Dijmarescu it might be worth calling Goger.


  Email from Billi - 27 June 2005

  Information on Gheorghe Dijmarescu from Hans Goger, who summited same day:

  BC  on 14 Apr at 5200m
  ABC on 19 Apr at 6370m
  C1  on 23 Apr at 7100m
  C2  on 18 May at 7600m
  C3  on  1 Jun at 8300m

  Summit 02 June by Dijmarescu, Lakpa Sherpa and Dawa Sherpa at 6:30 am Nepali Time.

  The team left C3 at 10 pm on 1st June and reached the summit at around 6:30 am. They descended to ABC the same day, where they stayed for another day and descended to BC on 4th June.

  Gheorghe climbed with Lakpa and they used oxygen from 7500m. They had one Sherpa (Dawa Sherpa - a relative of Lakpa, who is around 20 years old).

  Left BC on 5 June; members at end 2; Sherpa above BC: 1 (Dawa Sherpa)


expid: EVER05119
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Adrian Crane, Matthew Hood, Niklas Hallstrom
sponsor: Monterosa International Everest Expedition 2005 (3 independents)
countries: Sweden, USA
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-04
smtdate: 2005-05-21
termdate: 2005-06-02
termnote: Abandoned due to bad weather
campsites: BC(04/04,5200m),(see route details)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Adrian Crane:

  BC(04/04,5200m),ABC(09/04,6350m),C1(10/05,7000m),xxx(19/05,7700m)
  Abandoned at 7700m due to bad weather, high wind, time constraints
  Left BC 25/05
  No Sherpas above BC

  On May 19 Crane tried to go up for high camp, but the high wind forced him to turn around from 7700m to C1. Crane returned to KTM on 29th and will leave on May 31.


  Matthew Hood:

  BC(04/04),ABC(09/04,6350m),C1(20/04,7000m),C2(21/04,7500m),C3(29/04,7900m),
    xxx(21/05,8500m)
  Abandoned at 8500m due to bad weather, oxygen not operating
  Left BC 27/05
  No Sherpas above BC

  Hood left C3 at 9:40 pm (NST) on May 20, reached at 8500m at 7 am of 21st. He found the oxygen mask was not working properly. Weather became bad - high winds. Then Hood turn back to C3 and slept there. Next day to C2 and following day to ABC. While descending on 21st many people were ahead of him and he saw some Sherpas coming down. Hood returned to KTM on May 29 and will leave for home on June 3.


  Niklas Hallstrom:

  BC(04/04),IC(08/04,5800m)ABC(09/04,6350m),C1(24/04,7000m),C2(30/04,7700m),xxx(30/04,7700m)
  Abandoned at 7700m due to bad weather, cold, got sick
  Left BC 02/06
  No Sherpas above BC

  On May 28 Hallstrom reached up to 7500m, turned back to ABC, snow-boarding from 7500m to ABC. It took him about five hours. Hallstrom said that he did not try to summit and did not like to say anything more. He returned to KTM on June 2 and will leave on June 4.


expid: EVER05138
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Duncan Chessell
sponsor: Independent climber on Everest
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2005-05-19
smtdate: 2005-05-30
termdate: 2005-06-04
termnote: Abandoned at 8350m due to frozen oxygen, bronchitis
campsites: BC(19/05,5200m),ABC(20/05,6450m),C1(27/05,7100m),C2(29/05,7900m),xxx(30/05,8350m)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  Used oxygen from 7500m. Duncan climbed with Julian Thompson and Dawa Sherpa. He returned back to ABC the same day. He used oxygen from 7500m to high point and down to 7500m again.


  Russell Brice - 13 June 2005  

  Chessell went to Everest as a deputy leader of Brice's expedition but he didn't fit in with the clients on this commercial expedition nor with the Sherpas, so Brice sacked him on 10th April and left BC same day. Chessell went back to KTM and returned to Everest with Jamie McGuinness's expedition (as independent climber).


expid: EVER05125
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Brook Alongi
sponsor: Ogawa Mountain Adventure Everest Expedition 2005
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-03
smtdate: 2005-05-21
smttime: 1040
termdate: 2005-05-26
campsites: BC(03/04,5200m),ABC(10/04,6450m,C1(24/04,7000m),C3(19/05,7900m),C4(20/05,8210m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  On 19 May Frank, Allen, Bittner and Streett left C1 together. Baal had stayed in BC. Streett and Allen turned back at 7600m. Streett because of sore rib and Allen because he was not sure what the weather would do. Bittner turned back at 7200m due to cold. Frank went on and stayed in C4. He left at 11:45 pm (20 May) on summit day. He summited with Da Ngima and Lhakpa Sherpa. After the summit he returned to C4. He left BC on 25 May.

  Leader Brook Alongi left the team on 22 April due to personal matters.


expid: EVER05124
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Jocelyn Dufour
sponsor: Monterosa International Everest Expedition 2005
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-04
smtdate: 2005-05-21
smttime: 1015
termdate: 2005-05-27
agency: Monterosa Treks
campsites:
  BC(04/04,5200m),ABC(09/04,6350m),C1(17/04,7000m),C2(21/04,7500m),C3(20/05,7900m),C4(8300m),Smt(21/05)

routememo:
  BC  at CBC/IC on 8th at 5800m
  ABC at usual campsite
  C1  at North Col
  C2  at usual campsite
  C3  at usual campsite
  C4  at usual campsite.

  Dufour left C3 at 8 pm (NST) on May 20, reached at 8300m at midnight, summited at 10:15 of May 21, stayed on summit about 25 minutes, descended to 8300m. Next day to ABC. Weather on summit partially cloud-covered and moderately windy. Dufour was the first one to reach to summit. While on summit there came 10-12 people. The reason for his fingers frostbite he thinks was due to fingers contact with the metal piece attached to oxygen mask while trying to change. His sunglass in the morning of 21st when sun was coming up. About frostbitten feet he only realized when he arrived at 4 pm at C3. 

  Dufour returned to KTM on May 27 and his booking for home bound flight is on June 10. He will try to change for early flight.

accidents:
  Frostbite: thumb and middle finger of right hand, both feet (doctor said it is not very bad - likely to be Ok)


expid: EVER05123
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: S Africa
leaders: Richmond MacIntyre
sponsor: Monterosa International Everest Expedition 2005
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-04
smtdate: 2005-05-29
smttime: 0750
termdate: 2005-06-02
campsites: BC(04/04,5200m),ABC(09/04,6350m),C1(17/04,7000m),C2(19/04,7800m),C3(28/05,8300m),Smt(29/05)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  MacIntyre and Mingma left C3 at 11:30 pm (NST) on May 28, reached summit at 7:50 am of 29th, stayed at summit 15 minutes, descended to C3 at 4 pm. Weather was good, clear sky but little windy. Ahead of MacIntyre was Nielsen about two hours; nobody behind MacIntyre. Descended to ABC. Other summiters were from Norway, Serbia - there may be others. 

  MacIntyre returned to KTM on June 2 and departs on June 04. 

  Sherpa: 
    Mingma Ongel Sherpa, 25/8/68, Walung, Makalu-9, Sankhuwasabha,
      summited Everest (South) 2003, Dhaula 2004, K2 2004, Ama Dablam 2003


expid: EVER05126
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Gregory Vadasdi
sponsor: Big Green Everest Expedition 2005
bcdate: 2005-04-10
smtdate: 2005-06-02
smttime: 0927
termdate: 2005-06-04
campsites: BC(10/04,5200m),ABC(15/04,6450m),C1(22/04,7100m),C2(02/05,7700m),C3(01/06,8300m),Smt(02/06)
accidents: Vadasdi has frostnip on both feet (big toes)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Team left C3 at 12:30 am Nepali time. They got back to C3 at 4 pm where they stayed for 2 nights as they needed to rest. They had clear weather but wind on summit day. About 8 other people were on summit.

  Oxygen: On summit day from 7300m; slept with oxygen at 7700m. Used it after climbing at 8300m for 2 nights and stopped using it at 7500m.

  Sherpas:
    Mingma Dorje Sherpa, Khumjung, 21/12/67, Cho Oyu, Xixabangma
    Mingma Sherpa, Thami, 21/2/68, aka Ang Mingma, Everest X5


expid: EVER05127
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Thomas Richardson
sponsor: Karrimor Everest 2005 Expedition
countries: Canada
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-06
smtdate: 2005-05-30
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2005-06-03
campsites: BC(06/04,5200m),ABC(13/04,6450m),C1(17/04,7100m),C2(23/04,7700m),C3(29/05,8300m),Smt(30/05)
accidents: Deep vein thrombosis (Ashe-Cregan); retinal hemorrhage (Wade)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  Summiteers left C3 10 pm. Holmes, Mosedale and Phanden got up at 6 am and Wade and other 3 Sherpas arrived 1-1/2 hours later. On way down Wade went blind in one eye and lost consciousness, which he regained. He injected himself with Dexamethazone and got all the way down to ABC, where he arrived at about 6 pm. Holmes and Mosedale stayed at C2 that night.

  Oxygen used from C2 to summit to C4.

  Ashe-Cregan left 21 May; he got to 7500m but had to leave due to thrombosis.

  Robert Dyke left 17 May to swim around Vancouver Island.

  All other members got to C2 and no higher.

  Summit Sherpas:
    Pasang Nima, 1/11/71, Bakachol, Khotang, 1st 8000er
    Phenden, 26/9/71, Kharikhola, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X3
    Pasang Karma, 25/12/72, Paiya, Jubing-7, 1st 8000er
    Jangmu, 18/6/65, Khotang-9, 1st 8000er


expid: EVER05128
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Di Gilbert
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Everest North Ridge Expedition 2005
approach: By helicopter to Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-10
smtdate: 2005-06-04
smttime: 0615
termdate: 2005-06-08
campsites: BC(10/04,5200m),ABC(17/04,6450m),C1(27/04,7100m),C2(02/06,7800m),C3(03/06,8300m),Smt(04/06)
achievment: Youngest British male to do seven summits
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Team left C3 at 10 pm on 3 June. About 30-40 other people were climbing. They spent about 1-1/2 hours on top. Meyer descended to 7100m (7 pm) Gilbert and Anil descended to 7800m (6:30 pm), Mingma descended to ABC. Summit day was clear with cloud cover at about 7500m. About 25 km/h wind. 

  Meyer used oxygen from 7500m to top and down to 7800m. 
  Gilbert used oxygen from 7800m to top and down to 8300m. 
  Anil and Mingma used oxygen from 7800m to top and down to 7800m. 


expid: EVER05129
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Brazil
leaders: Rodrigo Raineri
sponsor: Try on Expedition Everest 2005
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-12
smtdate: 2005-06-02
smttime: 1215
termdate: 2005-06-04
campsites: BC(12/04,5200m),ABC(17/04,6400m),C1(20/04,7100m),C2(19/05,7500m),C3(31/05,8200m),Smt(02/06)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 15th at 5800m
  C1 at North Col.

  June 1 Negrete left C3 at 11:30 pm (NST), reached summit at 12:15 pm of June 2, stayed on summit about 30 minutes, descended to C2 where Negrete reached at 1:30 am of 3rd. Raineri left C3 at midnight of June 1, reached 8800m at 1:35 pm of June 2, descended to C2. When both reached to C2 there was nothing: no tent, no supply, no sleeping bags as everything have been removed by their Nepali helpers (Man Bahadur Tamang and Lila Tamang). The reason was they had to get yak next morning for sending all their stuff to CBC. Both Negrete and Raineri had to bivouac at C2. Next day both descended to ABC. Raineri did not give particular reason for not going to summit. He said it was just mental problem that he decided to turn around from 8800m. Conservani turned around from just above C2 on May 30 due to bad weather. Setani was there as support person and went up to C1 on 20th.  While descending Negrete met Gheorghe and Lakpa at 2nd Step. At the top met 2 Brazilians coming from south side. Summit was clear and warm but windy. At Summit there was about 15 to 20 people.

  The expedition returned to KTM on June 4 and trying to leave on 9th.

  The two Tamangs reached up to 8100m.

  Oxygen:
    Conservani from 7300m to 7600m to C2
    Negrete from C2 to summit to C2 including sleeping in C3
    Raineri from C3 to 8800m to C2 including sleeping in C3


expid: EVER05130
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: David Hamilton
sponsor: Jagged Globe Tibet Everest Expedition 2005
countries: Norway, S Africa, USA
bcdate: 2005-04-05
smtdate: 2005-06-03
smttime: 0620
termdate: 2005-06-07
accidents: Fienne's chest pain
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
campsites:
  BC(05/04),ABC(14/04,6400m),C1(27/04,7050m),C2(31/05,7500m),C3(01/06,7900m),C4(02/06,8300m),Smt(03-04/06)

routememo:
  Long tired before C2 established because of forecasts of strong wind. 1st summit party left C4 at 11:30 pm; they were all summiters; got to top at 6:20 am on 3rd to 6:40 am. On top just over an hour, little wind, no one on top that day; left 7:30 am and in C4 11:30 am, down to various camps: Harris to ABC Sunde-Rasmussen to C1, Vilane and Hamilton to C3, Sherpas to ABC.

  2nd summit party left C4; Sir Ranulph at 9:15 pm of 3rd and returned to C4 at 10:25 pm, turned around at 8350m because that was enough. Rest of party left at 11:00 pm and got to top at (7:00 am of 4th and down to various camps: Campbell to C3, Bojens to C2, Parnell and Short C4, Nima Tenzi to C2, Nima Gambu to C3, Ang Dawa to ABC). With Fiennes was Nima Dorje Sherpa (aka Boka Lama) who turned back with him, according to Vilane. Fiennes was fine until evening of 3 June, when he started for summit and soon had chest pain; he sat down took a pill, felt better but because of his medical history decided to descend.

  Buckton-Tucker left 26th April - not acclimatized and never above ABC.
  Ziel's high point was C3 - had breathing problems.

  Oxygen:
    3rd June summit party: all members from C1 to top to C2
    4th June Short, Campbell and Bojen in C1 to top to C1
        Parnell in C3 to top to C1; Fiennes in C1 to high point to C1
    All Sherpas: in C3 to high points to and in C4

  Sherpa summiters:
    Mingma Tshering, 2/8/70, Beding, Everest X10
    Nawang Pasang, 16/10/78, Beding, Everest 16/5/04
    Pasang Tenzing, 01/10/84, Beding, Everest X1, brother of Mingma Tenzing
    Nima Gambu, 2/1/69, Beding, Everest X10
    Ang Dawa, 22/7/81, Kharikhola
    Nima Tenzi, 24/8/80, Beding, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1


expid: EVER05131
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Hans Goger
sponsor: Independent climber
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-14
smtdate: 2005-06-02
termdate: 2005-06-04
campsites: BC(14/04,5200m),ABC(19/04,6370m),C1(23/04,7100m),C2(18/05,7600m),C3(01/06,8300m),Smt(02/06)
accidents: 2nd degree frostbite on left toe
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Goger left C3 at midnight Nepali time (alone) and caught up with quite a few climbers on his way up. He was with about 15 other climbers on the top. The weather was clear and there was a bit  of wind - about 30 km/h. On the summit he met a group of people from Thame, who ascended from the south side. They took a picture of him.

  After summiting he descended to the North Col, where he arrived at about 7 pm. The next day he descended to BC and left for Tingri the same day. He arrived in KTM on the 4th and took a plane back to Austria the same day.

  Oxygen: Goger used oxygen from 8300m to the summit and stopped using it at 8500m.


expid: EVER05133
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Everest Expedition 2005
countries: Australia, Canada, Denmark, France, Ireland, Japan, Norway, Switzerland, UK, USA
bcdate: 2005-04-04
smtdate: 2005-06-04
smttime: 0623
termdate: 2005-06-06
agency: Mountain Experience
campsites:
  BC(04/04),ABC(09/04,6400m),C1(25/04,7000m),C2(27/04,7500m),C3(02/06,7800m),C4(03/06,8200m),Smt(04-05/06)

routememo:
  1st summit party left C4 at 11:22 pm 3 June and on summit from 6:23 am on 4th and down to various camps that day: Benton, Nielsen, Pavillard, Well Kalozdi and Torkelson to C3, Crouse and Shimada, Smaller and Willis descended to C3 on 5th June, but Hockey and Staples went down only to C4. 

  Hockey has only one arm (the other arm is off at the shoulder because of cancer) and was so exhausted by his effort to reach summit that he had to be helped to descend from 8700m by 5 Sherpas and Staples stayed with him. 

  Members in 4 June summit party who did not reach top: Foster reached 8500m, suddenly lost all motivation and down to C3; Jensen also reached 8500m and then down all the way to ABC.

  5th June summit party members who failed; Boulanger to 7600m, down to ABC and left expedition 4 June from BC; Fujibayashi reached 8500m and down to C1; Goldstein reached C3 only and down to ABC; Hobbs to C1 only, back to ABC; Ishii got to 8700m then down to C3; McKinney to 8600m then down to C3.

  Other members high points:
    Brice - C1
    Dasey - C1, did not acclimatize and left expedition 28 May
    Chessell - did not fit in well with clients of this commercial exped nor with
       Sherpas so Brice sacked him as a Deputy Leader on 10th April and he left BC
       same day.
    Merrell - climbed only 200m above ABC, found the mountain was too much for him 
       and he left very early.

  4 June summit party member Jensen cycled or ran the entire 10,764 km distance from his home in Denmark to KTM and after resting in KTM, cycled from KTM to BC.      

  5 June summit party member Buck was a member of the Everest South Team led by Michael Roberts and had permission to make a traverse from south to north; he reached 7500m on 23 May and then since weather on south side so unstable. He left expedition on 23 May helicoptered to KTM, went by road to BC the north side to join Brice's team as permitted.


expid: EVER05134
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Ryan Waters
sponsor: SummitClimb Everest Tibet Expedition 2005
countries: Sweden
bcdate: 2005-04-10
smtdate: 2005-05-21
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2005-05-25
campsites: BC(10/04),ABC918/04,6400m),C1(22/04,7400m),C2(19/05,7800m),C3(20/05,8300m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  After C1 established, winds very strong smashing any tents that has been pitched by other teams.

  On 20th May summit party of Flock, Jing, Strang, 4 Sherpas and 3 Tibetans left at 11:15 pm NST: Strang turned around at top of 2nd Step (feet and hands very cold) and back to C3; Pemba Rinzi Sherpa with Strang to C3. To summit were Jing at 9:45 am; Flock 10:00 am; Jangbu, Ang Babu and Tibetans Pasang and Luda at 9:30 am having fixed rope to top; Fur Tenji with Flock and Tibetan Pemba 10:00 am. 

  2 Tibetans to C2 to sleep; Pasang to ABC; Sherpas all in C3 that night and so all members of summit party, Jing at about 2:15 pm, but Flock at 6:15 pm because oxygen problem stopped flow till returned to C3. 

  Oxygen: 
    Waters in C3 with chest infection
    Summit party's members from C2 to their high point, to and in C3 
    Summit Sherpas from C3 to high points to C3
    Summit Tibetans same as Sherpas

  Guthrie climbed only a little above C1 - got mildy sick and went no higher.
  Poulsen did not go above ABC - had no strength to go higher.
  Monsson left expedition 10 or 11 May because of business commitments.

  Sherpa Summiters:
    Ang Babu, 20/12/74, Khumjung, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1, Lhotse X1, Xixa X1
    Jangbu, 24/5/67, Patle, Everest X1
    Fur Tenji, 1/5/68, Buspa, Jubing-5, 1st 8000er 
      (claims Russian Everest spring 1996)

accidents:
  Flock frostbitten frozen and toes; Luda frostbitten little fingers; Waters chest infection in C2 (so climbed no higher)


expid: EVER05120
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Michael Parker
sponsor: Australian British Everest Expedition (Monterosa permit)
countries: UK
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-04
smtdate: 2005-05-27
termdate: 2005-06-02
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to high winds and cold
campsites: BC(04/04,5250m),ABC(09/04,6350m),C1(17/04,7000m),C2(26/05,7500m),xxx(27/05,7700m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 8th at 5800m.

  Parker tried to go to C3 on May 27, but turned around at 7700m due to strong winds and back to ABC. 

  Moore went up to C1. Moore left ABC on May 27, arrived KTM on 29, left country June 5. Moore stayed in different hotel, KTM Garden House. Parker returned to KTM on June 2 and will leave probably on 9th.


expid: EVER05136
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Brazil
leaders: Paulo Coelho
sponsor: Dream Everest 2005
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-14
smtdate: 2005-05-29
termdate: 2005-06-02
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to strong wind, low temperature
campsites: BC(14/04,5200m),ABC(19/04,6400m),C1(24/04,7000m),xxx(29/05,7900m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Both members left C1 at 6 am (NST) on May 29th, reached 7900m at 2 pm, stopped there for about half an hour due to strong wind and decided to return around 3 pm to C1 where they reached about 5 pm and slept there; next day to ABC. 

  The expedition returned to KTM on June 2 and will leave on June 4.


expid: EVER05137
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Jamie McGuinness
sponsor: DCXP 2005 to Everest 2005
countries: India, Netherlands, UK, USA
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->Xigar->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-10
smtdate: 2005-05-30
smttime: 0640
termdate: 2005-06-04
campsites: BC(10/04,5200m),ABC(19/04,6400m),C1(26/04,7040m),C2(05/05,7680m),C3(29/05,8210m),Smt(30/05,04/06)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  Thompson left C1 at 7 am on 29 May, rested at C2 for a while and ascended to 8300m where he met Dawa at 12:30 am. They left at 1:30 am. After summiting they went to ABC (6 pm). 

  Boslooper left C3 at 2 am, summited, and returned to ABC the same day (6 pm). Next day they left for KTM and arrived 6 June.

  Oxygen: Members from C2 to high points to C2. Sherpas in C3 to top to and in C3.

  McGuinness got to 8500m and turned back due to cold.
  Memon's highest point was 7500m on 28 May; he was too weak.

  Sukhi stayed at C2 from 28 May to 2 June. She refused to come down as she was under pressure from her family to climb Mt Everest. However, she was too weak to go up. She stayed up there mostly on her own and got very weak. On 1 June Boslooper and Namgyal stayed there and she made several calls to family from Boslooper's satellite phone. She decided to come down on 2nd June but she was so weak that she had to be short-roped and helped down by two Sherpa's (Dawa and Temba). She arrived in BC on 3 June.

  Duncan Chessell put a dispatch on Explorers.Net to appeal to her family to persuade her to come down. She arrived in KTM on 6 June and left on 7 June. 

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Gyalzen Sherpa, 15/2/67, Saframa, Lokhim-9, Lhotse X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Namgyal, 1977, Rakha-5, Khotang, Cho Oyu X3
    Dawangchu/Da Wongchhu, 4/4//79, Kurima, Lokhim, 1st 8000er
    Temba Sherpa (no summit), 4/9/77, Sotang-6, Solukhumbu


  June 1, 2005, 16:06 EST, McGuinness Everest North

  "This is a dispatch that shouldn't have been posted," writes a desperate Duncan Chessell. But he has no choice, one of the climbers, an Indian girl, refuses to come down from the mountain - allegedly pressured into the decision by her family.

  "Sukhi has not given us any phone numbers or contact details so this is the ugly public forum." writes Duncan, and pleads to the family: "Sukhi rang you yesterday from 7700m ot ask if it was Ok to come down like we have been telling her. You told her to push up - this is wrong, the situation is critical life and death. You need to allow her to come down - she listens to no one else - we have all tried."

  "Sukhi's sister just rang back our trekking agent to ask how much more to pay to give Sukhi more chance to go up as it is very important for families prestige. Either that or it is an elaborate plot to rid himself  of herself of a family member.... Now directly I tell you... your sister Suhki is about to die is she does not come down."

  Read Duncan's plea for the climber's life, on his website (links section)

  "In 35+ expeditions I have never seen anything like this, it is cultural fatalism that I don't understand, I do know that time is running out and I hope the Sherpas can get her down one way or the other," writes Duncan ABC.


expid: EVER05121
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Denmark
leaders: Nick Nielsen
sponsor: Monterosa International Everest Expedition 2005
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-04
smtdate: 2005-05-29
smttime: 0815
termdate: 2005-06-02
campsites: BC(04/04,5200m),ABC(09/04,6350m),C1(17/04,7000m),C2(19/04,7800m),C3(28/04,8300m),Smt(29/05)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  According to the dispatch of Monterosa to EverestNews.com, Nielsen summited on May 29 at 8:15 am (NST). 

  The dates and altitudes are based on the information given by another climber Richmond MacIntyre who summited on the same day after Nielsen. I talked to Nielsen on the 3rd, he told me that he is going to stay some more days, he is very busy. On the 4th in the morning while meeting other climbers, I met Nielsen. He told me again that he is very busy - will see later. When I call him in the afternoon, he was already gone. Have sent an email twice but no response.


expid: EVER05139
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Diego Giovannini
sponsor: Everest 2005
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->Xigar->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-14
smtdate: 2005-05-26
termdate: 2005-05-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to high wind
campsites: BC(14/04,5200m),C1(16/04,6400m),C2(19/04,7100m),C2(21/04,7900m),xxx(26/05,7900m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Giovannini suppose to make his summit from ABC on May 26 at 6 pm (NST), reached 7900m at 10 pm; it was very windy and not possible to continue climbing without oxygen; then turned around to ABC where he arrived at 1 am of May 27. 

  Giovannini returned to KTM on May 31 and leaves on June 4. Giovannini plans to reach Broad Peak on June 20. His timing for ABC to North Col was 1 hour 24 minutes. Giovannini planning to come for Ama Dablam with 4-5 people in Sept.


expid: EVER05140
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Karl Kobler
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Everest Expedition 2005
countries: Austria, Germany
bcdate: 2005-04-12
smtdate: 2005-06-04
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2005-06-06
agency: Iceland Trekking
campsites:
  BC(12/04,5200m),ABC(17/04,6450m),C1(24/04,7100m),C2(25/04,7500m),C3(02/06,7800m),C4(03/06,8300m),Smt(04/06)

routememo:
  Summiters left C4 11 pm on 2 June. They stayed night after summit at C4 arriving between 11 am and 4:00 pm NST. Namgyal descended to ABC. 

  Oxygen used from 7800m to 7800m slept with oxygen at 8300m. 

  Kobler turned back at 8300m due to bad weather. Other members got to 7800m.

  Kramer got to 8600m and turned back as he was too slow. He met Kobler at 8300m, where he said he would descend to C3. He had used oxygen all the time. Kobler went to ABC. Eiterer and Fichtner found Kramer's body on 5 June in the morning. It might have been a cracked rib that stabbed his lung according to Fichtner. Body transported to deposit camp at 6600m on 7 June. Russell Brice will bring body back to KTM.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Pemba, 4/9/71, Taksindu, Everest X3
    Namgyal/Namgya, 11/3/71, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1
    Nima Dorje, 17/3/81, Makalu-5, Everest 22/5/03


expid: EVER05141
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Christian Lemmerz
sponsor: Independent climber on Everest
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-03
smtdate: 2005-05-28
termdate: 2005-06-01
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to illness (bronchitis and pneumonia)
campsites: BC(03/04,5200m),ABC(10/04,6400m),C1(22/04,7100m),xxx(28/05,7900m)
accidents: Pneumonia and bronchitis
agency: Tshering Tamang
routememo:
  Beginning of May Lemmerz developed bronchitis which turned into pneumonia. He staged a few days at BC from 22 May to recover and went back up on 25 May but as he wanted to climb without oxygen he realized it was impossible and turned back.


expid: EVER05142
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Amit Chowdhury
sponsor: Indian Air Force Everest Expedition
approach: Lhasa->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-07
smtdate: 2005-05-30
smttime: 0530
termdate: 2005-06-04
campsites: BC(07/04,5200m),ABC(13/04,6400m),C1(19/04,7050m),C2(20/05,7700m),C3(21/05,8300m),Smt(30/05)
accidents: Mukherjee frostbitten during summit attempt; Chaitanya fatal fall
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  C1 at North Col.


  Email from Amit Choudhury - 29 June 2005

  1st summit bid by Dhaiya, Ramakanth, Ajit Singh and Mukherjee aborted on 21 May because of exhaustion. 2nd summit party of the 3 members and 4 Sherpas who summited left C3 at 10:30 pm (NST) 29 May; Tripathi reached summit at 5:30 am, Chaudhuri at 6:45 am and Chaitanya at 11:00 am. Tripathi returned to C3 at 11:00 pm, Chowdhary at 11:45 pm. Chaitanya climbed slowly; he was met by Tripathi at 8:00 am when Tripathi was descending at about 8650m and Chaitanya looked fit. He died somewhere in his descent; his body not found but it is believed he fell off the ridge. A third summit party was waiting at C2 for their summit bid but following Chaitamaya's disappearance, it was called off. 

  Oxygen used by members from C1 up to high points and down to C2; Sherpas from C3 to top to C3.

  Sherpas aborted attempt of 21 May were Ang Sona, Lhakpa Nuru, Pemba Nuru and Furba Chotare.


  Email from Amit Choudhury - 12 July 2005

  We had one summit push on 21 May with 4 members. 3 turned back within two hours and one went on till 8550m where he also turned back. On 30th May only 3 were supposed to go and 3 went. 2 other climbers were in position at C2 for an attempt on 1 May, but did not attempt because all the oxygen was exhausted in the search efforts.

  Wing Commander Tripathi got to the summit at 05:15 IST, Sgt. Chowdhary at 06:30 and Chaitanya at 09:45h. They all left the camp at 10:30 pm on 29th. Chaitanya reached at 10:45 and not 09:45. Tripathi got back at 09:45 pm and Chowdhary at 11:25 pm.

  We have not been able to find out why Chaitanya was so far behind his teammates.

  All Sherpas reached the summit.

  Chaitanya was slow that day. On his return, he encountered a snowstorm, somehow he was separated from Jamling, his oxygen finished around 1st Step. His body has been seen by Russell Brice near the place where Mallory's body lies.

  Dahiya reached 8550m; Ajit Mukherjee and Saini turned back within 2 hours of setting out from summit camp early on 21st May.

  Col Mukherjee was frostbitten on the summit attempt. He will lose a part of one finger of his right hand.

  Most oxygen from North Col to the summit stopped at 7700m. Sherpas used oxygen from 8300m and back. Jamling's oxygen finished near 1st Step on the way back.

  We all left BC on 4 June.


  Summit Sherpas:
    Jamling Bhote, 1977, Sankhuwasabha, 1st 8000er
    Pasang Sona, aka Ang Sona, 21/7/77, Thami Og, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1
    Pemba Nuru, 17/1/77, Thami, Everest X1
    Phurba Chhoter, 20/8/71, Thami


  Amit Chowdhury - 14 Dec 2007 (extract from email to Paul Firth)
    
  "Next day I met all the climbers of other expeditions who went to the summit on 2nd Jun 05 and I asked them about having seen our member. Chaitanya was very popular amongst all the members of other teams, they know him very well and were very concerned about him but they reported in the negative. Our conclusions were unanimous; during his decent, badly affected by exhaustion and very strong blizzard Chaitanya had become disoriented. Thereafter in the poor visibility he
  got separated from his Sherpa. Somewhere near First Step he slipped off from the North East Ridge and fell to his death on the North Face. There are several old ropes on the route, most of them are in a bad condition. In his exhausted stage and with the poor visibility it is also possible that he had clipped a wrong rope, which has not been able to hold his fall. It is also possible that he may have forgotten to clip on being as such at the limit of his physical and mental faculties." 


expid: EVER05143
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Norway
leaders: Sigrid Hammer
sponsor: Soft Touch of Ice Expedition to Everest
bcdate: 2005-04-29
smtdate: 2005-05-28
termdate: 2005-06-01
termnote: Abandoned at 8500m due to bad weather, exhaustion
campsites: BC(29/04,5200m),ABC(06/05,6450m),C1(16/05,7100m),C2(21/05,7900m),C3(27/05,8300m),xxx(28/05,8500m)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Jovall got as high as 8000m on 23 May but she became exhausted and turned back to C1 the same day. She stayed at BC the rest of the time as she had decided to abandon the climb.

  Sherpa:
    Tshering Pande Bhote (Makalu)


expid: EVER05144
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: San Marino
leaders: Antonio Pazzaglia
sponsor: San Marino 2005
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->Xigar->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-14
smtdate: 2005-05-27
termdate: 2005-05-30
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(14/04,5200m),ABC(16/04,6400m),C1(25/04,7100m),C2(26/05,7500m),C3(27/05,8300m),xxx27/05,8300m)
accidents: Bernardi suffered from chest infection on May 6 at ABC (left CBC on 7th, left Nepal on May 14)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 15th at 5700m
  C1 at North Col.

  Pazzaglia and Tashi left C2 on May 26 at 9:30 pm (NST), arrived at 8300m at 5:30 am of 27th, slept. Weather was windy and cold, left C3 at 6 am on 28th for ABC where they arrived at 2 pm.

  The expedition returned to KTM on May 31 and will leave on June 4.


expid: EVER05145
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Gerfried Goeschl
sponsor: Independent climber on Everest
bcdate: 2005-05-09
smtdate: 2005-06-01
termdate: 2005-06-03
campsites: BC(09/05,5200m),ABC(10/05,6370m),C1(19/05,7045m),C2(30/05,7600m),C3(31/05,7850m),Smt(01/06)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Email from Billi Bierling - 16 June 2005 

  Goeschl went up from 7600m on 31 May and stayed the next night at 7850m in another empty tent as he couldn't go on due to the weather.

  Goeschl left C2 (7850m) at 5 am. He was on his own and climbed without his Sherpa, Nima Gyalgen from Gauri Shankar. They had an argument at ABC and Goeschl dismissed him (his reasons were that Nima wanted more money and said he did not want to climb to the summit with Goeschl as he wanted to go with Ganesh from India, who had apparently offered him more money). On his way up Goesch did not meet anybody and he was on his own on the summit (he has pictures to prove it). He put a potato on the summit. Hans Goger from Austria, who summited a day later, saw it.

  Goeschl stayed on the summit for 10 minutes and descended to C3, where he arrived at 10 pm. He met Gheorghe Dijmarescu, who gave him a tent to sleep in. Goeschl was very dehydrated when he got to C3 and he could not boil any water as he did not have a lighter so he did not drink anything all night. He also felt mentally qiute exhausted. The next day he descended down to ABC, where he arrived at 10 pm. On his way he stopped at 8100m where he had two cups of tea with the Brazilian team. He met Dijmarescu again at 7900m. Dijmarescu was on his way down from the summit. He was with his wife Lakpa and his Sherpa.

  Goeschl was still very exhausted when he arrived at ABC on 2nd June and the doctor of the Indian army team gave him some cortisone and told him, he should take some oxygen but Goeschl refused as he did not want to lose his "without oxygen" title.


expid: EVER05146
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Wilfried Studer
sponsor: Dream Everest 2005
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-13
smtdate: 2005-05-19
termdate: 2005-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to bad weather (cold, windy)
campsites: BC(13/04,5200m),ABC(18/04,6400m),C1(20/04,7050m),C2(18/05,7600m),xxx(19/05,7800m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC
  C1 at North Col (deposit only - not used)

  Left ABC on 18 for C2. On 19th tried to go to C3, but due to strong wind and cold had to turn back from about 7800m to ABC. Studer said it was very cold; never felt that much of cold in their previous expeditions to Everest. 

  The couple returned to KTM on May 21 and probably leave Nepal after a week or so. They are waiting for their daughter who is in Khumbu trek and supposed to return to KTM on 22nd.


expid: EVER05148
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Claudio Rosset
sponsor: Aosta Guides Everest Expedition
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->Xigar->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-22
smtdate: 2005-06-04
smttime: 0800
campsites: BC(22/04,5170m),ABC(27/04,6370m),C1(02/05,7000m),C2(02/06,7670m),C3(03/05,8200m),Smt(04-05/06)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  On June 1, Bastrentaz, Epiney and Cesa left C1 for C2. June 3 from C2 to C3. Bastrentaz, Epiney with Ngima Tenji and Phur Temba Lama left C3 at 1 am (NST) of June 4. Epiney summited at 8 am, Bastrentaz and two Sherpas reached summit at 9 am. Stayed about 20-30 minutes. Epiney reached C3 at 12 noon then to C2 at 4 pm. Bastrentaz reached C3 with Sherpas at 2 pm then to C3 at 6:30 pm with Sherpas. Weather was good, not so windy on the ridge. Summit was windy and cold but clear sky. Ahead of Epiney team were members of Russell Brice's expedition and some other people. On the summit about 5 people were already there. 

  On June 4 Rosset, Trabucchi and Nima Dorje left C3 at 11 pm. Russet and Nima reached summit at 5:10 am of June 5, stayed on summit about 15 minutes. Trabucchi reached summit at 5:45, stayed on summit about 15 minutes. Descended all together to ABC at 6:30 pm. Weather on summit was cloudy, little snow, fog, visibility was poor. 

  Brunod suppose to do speed climbing from CBC to summit to CBC without oxygen. He started from CBC at 11 am on June 3, arrived C3 at 4 am of 4th and stopped his climb due to tiredness, descended to ABC on same day.

  Carrel was to assist Brunod; he went up to Intermediate Camp. 
  Cesa to was suppose to assist Brunod from C3; he went up to C3. 
  Favre and Janin up to C1. 
  Trucco went to 7400m below C2; left expedition on May 26 (no time to wait longer).

  Sherpas:
    Lakpa Dorji Sherpa (sirdar) he had to leave expedition on May 26 for home
    Nima Tenji Sherpa (1980) Chatu Gaon), Jubing, 1st 8000er
    Phura Temba (Lama) (20/1/70) Thami, Namche VDC, 1st 8000er
    Nima Dorje (18 Oct 1974) Pangboche, Everest summit

  Note BC Departure: 
    Bastrentaz and Favre June 6. 
    Rosset, Brunod, Cesa, Epiney and Janin on June 7. 
    Carrel and Trabuchi on June 8.

  By June 9 all the members will be in KTM and will leave Nepal on June 11.


expid: EVER05149
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Frederic Bernard
sponsor: Frederic Everest 2005
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-16
smtdate: 2005-05-10
termdate: 2005-05-28
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to high winds
campsites: BC(16/04,5200m),ABC(18/04,6400m),C1(25/04,7100m),C2(10/05,7500m),xxx(10/05,7500m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Summit attempt was on 23 May and team got up to 7500m. They climbed alpine style and carried everything themselves. The idea was to be descend the northern couloir on skis. 

  KTM arrival: 29 May
  KTM return: 10 June

  Team is leaving for Khumbu on 31st May for trekking. Will be back on 8th June.


expid: EVER05122
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Ireland
leaders: Humphrey Murphy
sponsor: Monterosa International Everest Expedition 2005
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-04
smtdate: 2005-05-30
smttime: 0710
termdate: 2005-06-02
campsites: BC(04/04,5200m),ABC(09/04,6350m),C1(24/04,7000m),C2(30/04,7700m),C3(29/05,8300m),Smt(30/05)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  On 30th Murphy left C3 at 00:45 am (NST), reached summit at 7:10 am, stayed about 25 minutes, descended to C3 about 10:30 am. Rested, then to C2 about 2 pm and slept. Next day to ABC. Weather was perfect, blue sky, minor wind. Before him on summit was Dr. Julian Thompson's (UK) Sherpas; Behind was Brit and some Sherpas. Murphy saw people coming up from south side. 

  Murphy returned to KTM on June 02 and will leave on 6th.


expid: EVER05151
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Face (to 6000m)
route2: N Face-N Col-NE Ridge (to 7700m)
nation: Germany
leaders: Ralf Dujmovits
sponsor: International Xixabangma-Everest Expedition
countries: Austria, Japan
approach: Xixa BC via Nyalam
bcdate: 2005-05-13
smtdate: 2005-05-30
termdate: 2005-06-04
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to AMS
campsites: BC(13/05),ABC(14/05,5550m),Biv(17/05,6100m),C2(27/05,7000m),C3(30/05,7700m),xxx(30/05,7700m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  ABC at Central Rongbuk
  Biv at bottom of North Face below Japanese couloir
  C2  at North Col
  C3  on North Face
  High point at C3.

  18 May to ABC after recce of North Face. Started up North Face on 26 May to biv as 6100m and slept there and decided to traverse over to normal route at North Col (Odell in 1938 used this route). On 30th May up to 7700m on normal route on North Face and here Takeuchi got serious cerebral edema (had planned to make camp there). Climb now finished: descended to normal route ABC at 6400m on 31 May.

  Takeuchi now only vertigo but otherwise Ok apparently.


expid: EVER05152
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Norway
leaders: Jon Gangdal
sponsor: Norwegian Everest Expedition 2005
countries: Sweden
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2005-05-03
smtdate: 2005-05-29
smttime: 0530
termdate: 2005-05-31
campsites: BC(03/04,5200m),ABC(08/04,6400m),C1(19/04,7100m),C2(14/05,7700m),C3(28/05,8300m),Smt(29/05)
accidents: Pneumonia, cerebral edema, bronchitis
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  Skagefoss left BC on 10 April due to pneumonia; he had reached 5800m.
  Stavor left BC on 11 April due to cerebral edema; he didn't get above BC.
  Bjargo left BC on 7 May due to bronchitis and lack of motivation; got to 7100m.
  Aass and Kragset left BC on 21 May due to lack of time and altitude sickness,
    respectively.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Tshering, 3/8/71, Beding, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X4, etc
    Nima Nuru/Nurbu, 18/6/74, Thami, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1
    Dawa/Da Chhiri, 19/2/78, Phurte, Everest X1, Makalu X1
    Dawa Tenzin, 31/10/75, Beding, Everest X1
    Nawang/Nwang Tenzin, 12/5/67, Beding, 1st 8000er


  Jon Gangdal - 22 Aug 2005

  Jon Gangdal got back to me and this is what he wrote:
  We started from C3 (8300m) 28th of May at 11 pm.
  We reached the summit 29th of May at 5:30 am.
  We were back in C3 (8300m) 29th of May 9 am and reached ABC (6400m) between 
    4 pm and 7 pm the same day.


expid: EVER05153
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Rosa Fernandez Rubio
sponsor: Expedition Rosa Fernandez 2005 to Everest
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->Xigar->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-04
smtdate: 2005-05-21
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2005-05-25
campsites: BC(04/04,5200m),ABC(12/04,6450m),C2(19/05,7700m),C3(20/05,8300m),Smt(21/05)
accidents: Frostnip on two toes
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Fernandez Rubio and 2 Sherpas left C3 at midnight. Dawa and Fernandez left Dayula at 2nd Step as he was too slow. He arrived minutes later. Fernandez and Dawa spent night at C2, Dayula at C3.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Chhiri, Solu, Kurima village 
    Dayula Sherpa, Sotang-6, Solukhumbu

  Arrived in KTM on 25 May.


expid: EVER05117
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Luigi Rampini
sponsor: Monterosa International Everest Expedition 2005
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-03
smtdate: 2005-04-25
termdate: 2005-05-09
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to blood clot in leg
campsites: BC(03/04),ABC(08/04,6400m),C1(20/04,7000m),xxx(25/04,7300m)
accidents: Rampini got blood clot in one leg
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Rampini went up to C1 3 times and went above it once nearly to C2. 

  He pitched his C1 tent inside area Russell Brice had roped off for his team's campsite; Brice removed it and Rampini shouted at him in anger; Marni Pearsall's Sherpa (Mingma Sherpa of Makalu VDC) pitched it elsewhere. Rampini developed blood clot in one leg but stubbornly refused to leave ABC despite advice from Russian team's doctor. Problem for him was money and he agreed to pay part of cost of vehicle but not half of it (he paid $175 and Marni Pearsall paid the $525 balance). Mingma brought his tent down from C1 to ABC for him. He was very bad tempered and fought off some attempts to help him.


expid: EVER05156
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Xavier (Xavi) Arias Sunyer
sponsor: Esplugues al Everest
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->Xigar->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-24
smtdate: 2005-05-21
termdate: 2005-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 8600m due to bad weather and ankle sprain of Arias Sunyer
campsites: BC(24/04,5200m),ABC(26/04,6400m),C1(02/05,7060m),C2(15/05,7600m),C3(20/05,8300m),xxx(21/05,8600m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 25th at 5800m.

  On May 21 at 00:30 hours NST Arias, Sunyer, Lhakpa Gyalzen and Mingma Thunde Sherpa left C3 for summit. When they reached at 8600m Arias Sunyer's feet got cold and strong wind started that made them return to C3. Rested at C3 about 3 hours then descended to ABC. Arias Sunyer got frostbite while he was on Dhaulagiri I in May 2004. The team was the first one to try summit on 21st.

  While descending Arias Sunyer's ankle sprained at about 8000m from there all the way down he was dragging on his one feet until C1. The team met other climbers coming up while descending. From C1 to ABC he was wrapped in a plastic sheet and pulled down by the Sherpas. His ankle is now well bandaged. 

  The team returned to KTM on May 24 and leaves on 29. 

  Carbonell Girbau went up to 7000m on May 02; got muscle cramped leg and had to give up the climb. 

  Torrents Barrachina started from C1 on 20th to catch up other member at C3; at 8000m had to return due to bad weather. 

  Member Vidal Tarruella went up to 7600m on 15 May; bad weather forced her to return to ABC.


expid: EVER05157
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Singapore
leaders: Robert Goh
sponsor: Premier Taxi Singapore Everest 2005
bcdate: 2005-04-03
smtdate: 2005-05-31
termdate: 2005-06-06
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to strong winds and very cold
campsites: BC(03/04,5350m),C1(11/04,6100m),C2(22/04,6500m),C3(10/05,7300m),C4(30/05,7900m),xxx(31/05,8100m)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 at West Cwm
  C3 at Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  C4 reached by Goh and Siew, Ang Chhiring [from other Singapore team] and Pemba Dorje 30th May. Winds too strong and tent poles broken (wind 100-120 km/hr) so abandoned summit push. Down on 31st because of weather forecast said continued "strong winds." Goh and Karma Rita Sherpa [also from other Singapore team] went to C2; Siew and Pemba Dorje left C4 9:00 pm 31st May; got to 8100m then too cold and windy and back to C4; next day to C2.

  Goh used no oxygen, Pemba Dorje used it from C4 up and back to C4 - without oxygen its very cold.

  Lim left expedition on 30 May because his wife, Lim Nguk-Hoon, doctor for other Singapore Everest team (led by Khong Lean Ee) had to return to her work in Wales. In any case he was not acclimatizing at C3.

  Shared base camp facilities and 8 Sherpas above BC with National University of Singapore expedition (pro-rated 1 to this team and 7 to university team).


expid: EVER05158
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Singapore
leaders: Khong Lean Ee
sponsor: National University of Singapore Everest Expedition
countries: Malaysia, USA
bcdate: 2005-04-03
smtdate: 2005-05-31
smttime: 0725
termdate: 2005-06-06
campsites: BC(03/04),C1(11/04,6100m),C2(19/04,6500m),C3(26/04,7310m),C4(30/05,7900m),Smt(31/05,02/06)
accidents: Chow frostnipped toes
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 at West Cwm
  C3 at Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  27 April to 24 May stayed in BC every night, though went trekking in area because weather reports of high winds continued through this period. 24 May Quah and Zerbe to C3; 30th May Chow, Ee and Teo to C3. Had split into 2 groups with one following the other and in support of the other if needed. 30th May Quah and Zerbe to C4 and established camp there with 2 Sherpas. 

  30th at 10:00 pm Zerbe and Quah and Sherpas Tashi Dorje and Karma Rita left for top. Quah and Karma Rita turned back at the balcony at about 8400m because Quah's oxygen regulator leaking and returned to C2 that day while Zerbe and Tashi Dorje to top at 7:25 am and Zerbe down to C2, Tashi Dorje to C2. 

  31st May Ee, Chow and Teo to C4 from C3, from C2 to C4 same day were Ang Chhiring, Lhakpa Tshering and Dorje Lama. At 9:00 pm all in C4 left for top. Ee and Dorje Lama at midnight at 8300m turned back because Ee found wind too strong and feared might get frostbitten and down to C2; others to top; Chow at 9:30 am with Ang Chhiring, Teo on top at 11:30 am and down to C4 and 3rd to C2.

  Expedition doctor left on 30th May to return to work.

  Sherpa summiters: 
    Tashi Dorje, aka Ang Tashi, 26/9/70, Pangboche, Anna X1, Cho Oyu X2
    Kami Tshering, aka Ang Tshering, 1962, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X5
    Lakpa Tshering/Chhiri, aka Sonam, Everest X1, K2 X1

  Shared base camp facilities and 8 Sherpas above BC with Robert Goh expedition (pro-rated 7 to this team and 1 to Goh team).


expid: EVER05159
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Jong-Min
sponsor: 2005 Hanyang University Alpine Club Mt. Everest Expedition
countries: USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-05
smtdate: 2005-05-30
smttime: 0915
termdate: 2005-06-03
campsites: BC(05-6/04,5400m),C1(12/04,6100m),C2(17/04,6400m),C3(26/04,7200m),C4(20/05,7950m),Smt(30-31/05)
agency: NE-KO Treks
routememo:
  On May 28, Kim Hyong-Chul, Seok, Dawa Ongchu, Dawa Nurbu and Pema Sherpa left C2 to C3. On 29th C3 to C4. Dawa Nurbu left C4 at 9:30 pm with Benegas team. Rest of the members and Sherpas left C4 at 10 pm. Dawa Nurbu reached summit at 9:15 am of 30th. Kim Hyong-Chul reached summit at 11:40 am with Dawa Ongchu. Seok and Peme Sherpa reached summit at 12 noon. Dawa Nurbu left summit early. Rest of the members and Sherpas descended together and reached C4 between 5:30-6 pm. Slept at C4 next day to C2. Summit day morning was very clear at 12 pm it became cloudy and little windy. Ahead of the team were Benegas, Korean team, Iranian team, behind them were about 2 or 3 people. 

  On May 29, Ahn, Lee, Thilen and Tashi Lhakpa Sherpa left C2 for C3. On 30th C3 to C4. Two member and two Sherpas started from C4 at 10 pm. Ahn, Lee, Thilen and Tashi Lhakpa summited at 7 am of 31st. They spent 30 minutes on summit, descended to C4 at 7 am of 31st. They spent 30 minutes on summit, descended to C4 at 1:30 pm and slept. Next day to C2. Strong wind between C4 and summit on summit day. Before the team on the summit were Apa Sherpa and American team, behind them were Japanese, British and about other 30 people.

  Other members: 
    Hong climbed up to 7600m on May 20 - he was tired and moving very slow
    Kim Hang-Ki up to 7600m on May 29 - he was tired and moving very slow
    Kim Il-Hong up to 7600m on May 20 - he was tired and moving very slow
    Kim Jong-Min (leader) up to C4 on May 21
    Sunwoo - between C2 and C3 about 6900m on April 27. Left BC on May 1.
      Arrived KTM on 5th and left the country on 7th - Exhausted.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Thilen, 18/5/68, Nurbugaon, Makalu-5, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X1
    Tashi Lhakpa, 18/11/85, Mathilow, Walung, Makalu-9, Everest X1
    Dawa Wangchu/Ongchu, 17/12/72, Everest X1, Kangch X3, etc
    Dawa Nurbu, 1971, Mathilow, Walung, Makalu-9, Everest X1, G1 & G2
    Peme, 1972, Makalu-9, Everest X1


expid: EVER05160
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Ben Webster
sponsor: Expedition Everest 2005
bcdate: 2005-04-09
smtdate: 2005-05-30
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2005-06-02
campsites: BC(09/04,5350m),C1(16/04,6000m),C2(18/04,6400m),Smt(30/05)
accidents: Burke rejoined expedition 27 April at BC; Webster fell in Icefall and broke his leg
agency: Mountain Madness
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Summit party left C4 at 10:10 pm on 29th and on top at 9:30 am of 30 May and back to C4; to C2 31st and BC 1st June. 

  Burke used oxygen in C3 to top to C3; Pemba Gyalzen and Lama Babu from C3 to top to and in C4. Changba Nurbu in C4 to top to and in C4.

  19th going down to BC to rest; 20 minutes into descent below C1, in the Icefall, a chunk of loose ice slipped out from under Ben's left foot, he fell on his side, twisted his leg so badly it broke in 2 places below the knee; was a flat area and Ben was not using fixed rope. 2 Sherpas coming by, stopped and made stretcher to help with his evacuation; perhaps 40 Sherpas in all helped drag/carry him down to to BC, where Himalayan Rescue Association clinic doctor gave pain killer and antibiotics.

  Burke flies back to Lukla 23 April to returns to climb; figures summit date about 25 May.

  Summit Sherpas:
    Pemba Gyalzen, 29/11/63, Pangkoma, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X2
    Lama Babu, 23/9/68, Bung, Everest X1
    Chhongba Nuru, 1962, Tate, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1, Dhaula X1


  Canadian Everest Expedition Spring 2005 led by Ben Webster - 26 June 2007

  Nima Dorje Tamang also summited with this expedition.

  Lama Babu Sherpa, who summited with this team on 30 May 2005, confirmed on 26 June 2007 that Nima Dorje Tamang also summited with this team on the same day as he, as Nima Dorje Tamang is now claiming. Tamang was cook at C2, says Lama Babu, and perhaps this is why he was not mentioned as a summiter by Webster's wife, Shaunna Burke, on 7 June 2005.

  The ministry of Tourism's press release of 30 May 2005 lists Nima Dorje Tamang as a summiter that day in connection with the success of the American expedition led by Willie Benegas on a permit granted to Mountain Madness Trekking. The release lists all of the American team's successful members and Sherpas, plus Shaunna Burke and the three Sherpas she mentioned, plus Nima Dorje Tamang.

  Nima Dorje Tamang, called "Kala", was born on 8 January 1980 (24/9/2036) and comes from Chitre village, Bakachola-9, Khotang. He scaled Everest again on 17 May 2007 with the American team led by Paul Giorgio via South Col.


expid: EVER05161
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Michihiro Honda
sponsor: Team Honda Everest 2005
approach: Lukla->Namche->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-06
smtdate: 2005-05-31
termdate: 2005-06-04
campsites: BC(06/04,5500m),C1(15/04,6100m),C2(16/04,6450m),C3(19/05,7300m),C4(20/05,8000m),Smt(31/05)
accidents: Honda had frostbite on right middle finger
agency: Himalayan Treasure
routememo:
  Oxygen from 7300m (also sleep) to top and back to 7300m. Summiteers left C4 at 10:30 pm on 30 May. Around 40 other people were climbing. It was clear on top but very windy. Cloud cover to about 8400m. They spent about 1 hour on top and got back to C4 at 2:00 pm (Imoto and Danuru) and at noon (Kodama and Pasang Rinji).

  On 20 May Honda ascended to C4 but he got frostbite and went down to C2. 2 days later (he helicoptered to Lukla on 26 May) and then by plane to KTM. He left for Japan on 1 June.

  Summit Sherpas:
    Pasang Rinji, Kharikhola, Solu, 28/11/76, Everest X3
    Danuru Sherpa (Dawa Nurbu), Kharikhola, Solu, 28 years old, Everest X4


expid: EVER05162
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Mongolia
leaders: Bayarnyam Dasdelag
sponsor: First Mongolian Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2005-04-24
smtdate: 2005-05-30
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2005-06-03
campsites: BC(24/04),C1(28/04,6000m),C2(06/05,6420m),C3(07/05,7300m),C4(29/05,7900m),Smt(30/05)
achievment: 1st Mongolian atop any 8000er
agency: Churen Himal Treks
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 at West Cwm
  C3 at Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  29 May C4 established by Golovdorj, Iman Gurung and 2 Sherpas. Left C4 for top at 10:00 pm 29 May and on top 30 May at about 11 am and returned to C4 to sleep at 3 pm; to C2 on 31 May and BC on June 1. 

  Oxygen: Golovdorj used in C4 to top to and in C4 and to C2; Iman had some oxygen flow in C4 and to top but no longer; Pasang is C4 to top to South Summit; Jangbu in C4 to top to C3.

  C1 tents, sleeping bags, etc. taken away by avalanche.

  Nepalese summiters:
    Iman Gurung, 15/4/60, Gorkha Laprak, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X2
    Pasang Sherpa, Jiri-7, Dolakha, 11/8/75, 1st 8000er
    Jangbu Sherpa, 14/4/80, Kharikhola, 1st 8000er


expid: EVER05163
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Moni Mulepati
sponsor: Rotary Centennial Everest Expedition 2005
approach: Lukla->Namche->BC
bcdate: 2005-04-05
smtdate: 2005-05-30
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2005-06-02
campsites: BC(05/04,5300m),C1(20/04,5900m),C2(27/04,6400m),C3(20/05,7300m),C4(29/05,7900m),Smt(30/05)
achievment: 1st Newari girl to summit; 1st wedding atop of Everest
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  May 26: Mulepati, Kami and Pem left BC for C2. On 28th C2 to C3. On 29 all three members left C3 at 10 am arrived C4 at 6:30 pm. Left C4 at 11:40 pm, summited at 11 am of 30th, stayed there for 45 minutes, wedded Mulepati to Pem. Descended to C4 at 6:40 pm, slept in C4. Next day to C2. Weather condition on ascent was Ok - little windy, on descent it was windy, snowfall. While ascending ahead of Mulepati team were Iranians and Koreans. When they reached summit there were about 10 people. Mulepati saw 2 or 3 people coming from north side. When asked Mulepati about Sushmita (Dangol team), she said she had no idea about her. Pem said they were together up to Balcony. 

  Mulepati-Sherpa couple trying to go to Chicago to attend Rotarians meeting where Mulepati plans to hand over the Rotary summit flag at the meeting to be held around June 18.

  Mulepati has no idea about the altitudes of camps. The altitudes were given by Pem.

  Kami Sherpa was a team member (not hired).

accidents:
  Mulepati suffered from snow blindness while descending from summit (weather was bad and she had removed her sunglass overnight; she recovered from the blindness with medication; next morning it was not that bad)


expid: EVER05164
peakid: EVER
year: 2005
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Keiichi Iwasaki
sponsor: Dream Everest 2005
approach: Cycling to Lamosangu->Charikot->Jiri; Trek: Shivalaya->Kyanja->Junbesi
bcdate: 2005-04-07
smtdate: 2005-05-31
smttime: 0855
termdate: 2005-06-03
campsites: BC(07/04,5300m),C1(19/04,5900m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(20/05,7300m),C4(30/05,7920m),Smt(31/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Iwasaki and two Sherpas left BC for C2 on May 27. C2 to C3 on 29th. On 30th left C3 at 6 am and arrive C4 at 2 pm. Left C4 at 10 pm with Sherpas, summited at 8:55 am of May 31. Descended to C4 at 3 pm and slept; next day C2. Stayed on summit about 35 minutes taking pictures and watching the scenery - it was magnificent. There were one Sherpa and one person (may be European) on the summit when Iwasaki team reached the summit. The weather was clear, blue sky, little windy. At lower ridge there were clouds. On that day about 26 people summited. 

  Iwasaki returned to KTM on June 14. He is planning to leave KTM for India may be in next two weeks. The poster he took to the Everest summit shows three zeroes meaning "Zero level, Zero Budget (Iwasaki said when he arrived KTM he had only Rs 80), Zero gas (energy). In next five year he plans to cover India, Pakistan, Turkey, Bulgaria, Romania, Ethopia, Africa, South America, North America. He is staying in private house in Kalanki.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Tendi, Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha, 27/10/83, Everest X1 (north)
    Pasang, Siddhapokhari-8, Keraberi, Sankhuwasabha, 10/7/76, 1st 8000er


