# exped

expid: KTEG84101
peakid: KTEG
year: 1984
route1: SE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Meri Puig
sponsor: Catalan Women's Kangtega Expedition
ascent1: 3rd
bcdate: 1984-04-25
smtdate: 1984-05-15
smttime: 1300
campsites: BC(25/04,4700m),C1(08/05,5400m),C2(14/05,6300m),Smt(15/05)
accidents: None
routememo:
  Tried from C1 for summit on 13 May but too long distance and so turned back at 6400m when was late (attempt by all 5 climbing members and 2 Sherpas). So made C2 on 14th and went to top on 15 May. Doctor did not go above BC.

  Icefall of 1963 expedition not same route but mostly same as 1963 route. Very difficult, more difficult than expected. To C1 was difficult partly trying to find route (tried 3 times) through or around icefall which is very open with crevasses and lower than before and avalanches.


expid: KANB84101
peakid: KANB
year: 1984
route1: NW Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Dante Porta
sponsor: Nepal Expedition 1984
bcdate: 1984-04-20
smtdate: 1984-04-26
termdate: 1984-04-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to Porta's lack of acclimatization
campsites: BC(20/04,5250m),C1(25/04,5600m),xxx(26/04,6000m)
accidents: Porta illness only (cerebral edema)
routememo:
  Solo attempt on NW Face by Porta.

  25 April returned to BC. 26 April Porta went up alone intending to make push to summit. 26 April went to 6000m and in C1. That night not well, probably cerebral edema. 27 April Nga Temba went to C1 carrying supplies and found him very sick and brought him to BC on 28 April with C1 equipment. 

  Porta's lack of acclimatization [caused his illness].


expid: MAKA84102
peakid: MAKA
year: 1984
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Mari Abrego Santesteban
sponsor: Basque Makalu Expedition
ascent1: 20th
bcdate: 1984-04-08
smtdate: 1984-05-16
smttime: 1600
termdate: 1984-05-20
othersmts: Climbed Makalu II (Kangchungtse) (MAK2-841-01) and small peaks near Baruntse
accidents: None
campsites:
  BC(08/04,5400m),Biv(26/04,6000m),Biv(28/04,6750m),Biv(30/04,7400m),Biv1(11/05,6000m),Biv2(12/05,6600m),Biv3(13/05,7000m),Biv4(14/05,7450m),Smt(16/05)

routememo:
  BC  at moraine on west side of Chago Glacier
  Biv at start of joining Baruntse Glacier.

  Erro and Zabaleta left expedition early.

  Spent several weeks in acclimatization climbing. Then 1st push to summit beginning 26th April and all 4 got to Makalu La where very windy and to 7400m maximum altitude in these 4 days. Then to BC.

  2 members left and on 11th May De Pablos and Albrego began new push with bivs in new sites for most and one more bivouac. Arrived at top at 4:00 pm and returned to last biv at 10:00 pm = 23 hrs climbing. Lots of wind and cold throughout climbing period. Passed Basque flag at summit.

  Technically not difficult. First 800m below Makalu La have to be very careful on this steep section. Going up the altitude was the problem.

  Climbed several small peaks in area of Baruntse, Baruntse itself to 200m from top and Kangchungtse by 3 members during 1st summit push in late April.


expid: MANA84103
peakid: MANA
year: 1984
route1: S Face
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Ales Kunaver
sponsor: Split Manaslu Expedition
ascent1: 21st
bcdate: 1984-04-18
smtdate: 1984-05-04
smttime: 0945
campsites: BC(18/04,4250m),C1(19/04,5200m),C2(27/04,6500m),Smt(04/05)
accidents: None
routememo:
  BC at Tulagi Khola.

  Bozic and Groselj to 7400m 2 May, 7700m 3rd May and 4th May easy assess to summit. Same route as Austrians 1972 and Poles last winter. BC also smashed by avalanche wind - incredibly.

  From BC saw 2 huge avalanches on 23 and 24th April which must have covered dump, which in turn was pushed aside by avalanche. On 30th Bozic and Groselj started from 6700m for S Face ascent.


expid: CHOY84101
peakid: CHOY
year: 1984
route1: W Ridge-W Face (Messner 1983 rte)
nation: Czechoslovakia
leaders: Vera Komarkova
sponsor: International Women's Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 7th
bcdate: 1984-04-05
smtdate: 1984-05-13
accidents: None; nearest thing to accident was May 13 avalanche
campsites:
  BC(05/04,5200m),C1(09/04,5500m),C2(18/04,5850m),C3(20/04,6600m),C4(28/04,7100m),C5(12/05,7500m),Smt(13/05)

routememo:
  BC at Khadjung Glacier (same site as Messner's).

  29th April made summit attempt from C4 and reached 7500m (all 4 climbers). Then Ang Rita and Nuru had to go to BC to send for fuel and oxygen to Namche while women waited in C2. Started to climb again on 8 May but snowstorm kept them in C3 for 2 days. Finally on 12 May pitched C5 and on 13 May to summit.

  Ang Rita and Nuru did most of load carrying and put in much of the fixed rope. These 2 Sherpas and 2 women climbed together almost all the time.

  Most difficult climbing between C3 and C4 steep ice and above C5 steep rock - very long route. Above C5 (7700m) small avalanche started by Ang Rita hit them in steep couloir in 2nd summit bid (Ang Rita was leading).

  After that no more climbing was possible. There were no members who were not exhausted from their efforts on the mountain which had begun on 12 Sept.

  This is small expedition, assisted by only [2 Sherpas who were listed as "members" since the peak had not been previously climbed by Nepalese citizens].


expid: BARU84101
peakid: BARU
year: 1984
route1: N Ridge from W to Central Smt
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Byung-Joon
sponsor: 1984 Korean Baruntse Himal Expedition
bcdate: 1984-03-23
smtdate: 1984-04-09
termnote: Abandoned at Central Smt (7066m) due to route difficulty
campsites:
  BC(23/03,5100m),ABC(26/03,5150m),C1(30/03,5550m),C2(04/04,6190m),C3(08/04,6500m),N-Smt(09/04,7057m),Cntrl-Smt(09/04,7066m)

routememo:
  BC at Imja Glacier at place yaks could reach (near "j" for BC-ABC near "c" on
     Khumbu map).

  One group climbed the 7057m North Summit and one group climbed the 7066m Central Summit. None attempted the 7129m Main Summit.

  9 April one party (Oh, Ryu and Pasang Sherpa) to N Summit (7057m) while other party (Chang, Chung, Sirdar Lhakpa Gyalgen and Pasang Dawa) to Central Summit (7066m). Both parties returned to C2 same day (started from C3). 1 hour longer to reach Central Peak than N Peak. Not to Main Summit because of route difficulty and Sherpas not carrying above C1 (too occupied with fixed ropes). Had thought in Korea to go only to N Summit but found they were able with same supplies to reach Central Summit also. Farthest point reached was 2 hours beyond Central Peak (but at lower altitude) towards Main Peak.

  Ridge is terrible ridge. C2 to C3 very steep mixed snow, ice and rock needing fixed rope (not sharp). To Main Summit from Central Summit were very big deep crevasses and big altitude difference up 65 degrees slope on hard ice requiring 800m fixed rope and lots of ice pitons. 7 more days needed to Main Summit.

  Ice and rock falls hit several members (broke 1 man's helmet) on terrible route between C1 and C2 which had nearly constantly falling ice and rock. 1 man had frostbitten toes that will heal.


  Banskota, Tourism - 29 March 1984

  BC 5100m 23 March. 3 members left BC for Thyangboche due to headache and others left for Thyangboche 23 March; plan return BC 24 March and start climb on 26 March.

accidents:
  Ice and rock falls hit several members (broke 1 man's helmet) on terrible route between C2-C3 which had nearly constantly falling ice and rock; 1 man had frostbitten toes that will heal


expid: CHRW84101
peakid: CHRW
year: 1984
route1: W Ridge-W Smt
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Byoung-Hoon
sponsor: 1984 Korean Churen Himal Expedition
bcdate: 1984-04-01
smtdate: 1984-04-05
termdate: 1984-04-06
termnote: Abandoned at 5950m due to avalanching of snow, rock and ice
campsites: BC(01/04,4300m),C1(03/04,5200m),C2(05/04,5950m),xxx(05/04,5950m)
accidents: None
routememo:
  BC southwest of peak.

  Lot of avalanching of snow, rock and ice and Kim's snowblindness and Cho's altitude headache. Wanted to change route, but would take too much time to complete climb. 

  Will come again in 1986 after one year's training and with 7-member team.


expid: KGUR84102
peakid: KGUR
year: 1984
route1: W Face-SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Park Soon-Jo
sponsor: 1984 Kang Guru Expedition of Chaik Alpine Club
ascent1: 10th
bcdate: 1984-04-19
smtdate: 1984-05-01
campsites: BC(19/04,3680m),C1(24/04,5320m),C2(26/04,5900m),C3A(28/04,6200m),C3B(30/04,6500m),Smt(01/05)
accidents: None
routememo:
  BC at Meta (200m from British BC).

  1st summit attack on 29 April by Kang In-Sun and Hong Soon-Gug and Pasang Norbu and Kipa Sherpa from 1st C3. They reached 6820m at 6:00 pm in bad weather and returned to C3. Decided C3 too low for success so moved it 300m higher next day and success came on 1 May. For details see Ministry of Tourism report of 8 May 1984.

  At first planned SW Ridge, but could see it very difficult and dangerously falling ice, so climbed most of way up W Face and joined ridge at about 6800m. Route not so difficult. 

  Only 1 Korean top: 1st 2 trying became tired and one man altitude sickness.


expid: PUTH84101
peakid: PUTH
year: 1984
route1: S Ridge-S Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Cho Chung-Sool
sponsor: 1984 Korea Himalaya Mt. Putha Hiunchuli Expedition
ascent1: 14th
bcdate: 1984-03-20
smtdate: 1984-04-01
smttime: 1605
campsites: BC(20/03,4200m),C1(21/03,4800m),C2(24/03,5400m),C3(29/03,6490m),Smt(01/04)
accidents: None
routememo:
  BC north of point 4100m at start of Kaphe Khola.

  Strong wind on 1 April with broken at C1 and C2. 10 hrs to reach top from C3 (Japanese successful expedition had a C4 and took days to prepare route to top). No second summit attack because next day snowfall. April 1 only possible summit day when no snowfall and no smoke (from forest fires).

  C2-C3 all fixed rope, much blue ice. Jung and Kang semi-alpine style from C2 to summit. Cho had actually wanted to climb to East Ridge but to right of route actually followed, but there was too much danger from ice fall and even had to slightly alter route.


expid: SHA284101
peakid: SHA2
year: 1984
route1: SW Face-S Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Yong-Ho
sponsor: Exp of Korean Alpine Guides Association - Nuptse, Shartse
ascent1: 2nd claimed
approach: Khumbu Valley->Chhukung
bcdate: 1984-04-17
smtdate: 1984-05-08
smttime: 1100
termdate: 1984-05-09
termnote: Success claimed (reached Shartse II instead of Shartse?)
othersmts: Had permit for Nuptse West
campsites:
  BC(08/04,5350m),C1(19/04,5600m),C2(26/04,6100m),C3(29/04,6450m),C4(01/05,6600m),C5(03/05,6950m),C6(06/05,7050m),Biv(07/05,7250m),Smt(08/05)

routememo:
  BC on Lhotse Shar Glacier (west of "a" in Glacier on Schneider Khumbu map).

  1st try for top 4th May by 5 members and Nima Wangchu Sherpa. Reached 7350m on 4th May. Then a member fell 50m on difficult rock covered by soft snow and all returned to C4. 

  2nd summit attempt on 6th May by 2 other members and Nima Wangchu. Made C5 on 6th May; 7th May biv by these 3 at 7250m and 8th May all 3 on summit at 11:00 am and descended to C4 and BC on 9th May.

  No attempt to Nuptse. Rather late and 2 members feet frostbitten. Funds gone buying replacement baggage because of CCU (Calcutta) port strike.

  Very steep between C2 and C3 (70 degrees and more blue ice). Next most difficult part is near bivouac point. Above C3 is knife ridge. Entire route very steep and difficult zig-zag route.

accidents:
  Yoon Dae-Pyo fell when rock piton came but not hurt; Kwak Hyo-Khun frostbitten toes but didn't realize then (may not lose any parts); Dae-Pyo also frostnip


expid: AMAD84103
peakid: AMAD
year: 1984
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Naoe Sakashita
sponsor: Sangaku Doshikai Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 35th
bcdate: 1984-04-27
smtdate: 1984-05-03
smttime: 1420
termdate: 1984-05-05
othersmts: Attempted Tawoche (TAWO-841-01)
campsites: BC(27/04,4650m),Biv1(30/04,5700m),Biv2(02/05,6100m),Smt(03/05),Biv2(03/05,6100m)
accidents: None
achievment: 2nd solo ascent
routememo:
  BC   at Mingbo Glacier
  Biv2 on SW Ridge.

  Left 6100m bivouac at 7:00 am and reached top 2:20 pm; left top 2:45 pm and returned to biv at 5:40 pm. No sleeping bag with him there 2 nights since had expected to go top on 2nd May but had been able to reach only 6300m that day. Ridge was difficult climbing solo and with very little hardware.

  Original route very hard, thought he would go by S Ridge and then if chance, try W Face, a very logical route and not so difficult techically, good straight line that can be done in one day but bottom glacier so terrible (lots of crevasses); needed rope partner. On 29th went to just below this glacier to have a look at W Face.


  Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 14 May 84

  Sakashita arrived KTM 14 May
  SW Ridge climbed to summit in climb to survey W Face
  BC - 4570m 27 April
  28 and 29 April BC
  30 April began climb and 5700m biv
  1 May - fixed ropes and returned same biv
  2 May - climbed to 6100m biv
  3 May - due strong west wind stayed in biv till 7:00 am, then to top at 2:20 pm, 25 minutes on top, returned to 6100m biv without food but found Korean dried rice, jerky and smoked salmon and chocolate there.
  4 May - BC


expid: KANG84101
peakid: KANG
year: 1984
route1: SW Face-Main Smt
route2: W Face-S Smt-Central Smt-Main Smt
nation: Japan
leaders: Katsuhiko Kano
sponsor: Nepal-Japan Kangchenjunga Expedition 1984
ascent1: 16th
ascent2: 17th
countries: Nepal
approach: Hile->Taplejung->Yalung Glacier
bcdate: 1984-03-07
smtdate: 1984-05-17
smttime: 1300
termdate: 1984-05-22
othersmts:
  Climbed Kangchenjunga Central (KANC-841-01) and South (KANS-841-01); permit for Yalung Kang (YALU-841-01)

campsites:
  BC(07/03,5500m),C1(20/03,6150m),C2(25/03,6600m),C3.ABC(13/04,7200m),C4.M(7800m),C5.M(01/05,8250m),Smt(19-20/05)

routememo:
  South Peak climbed on 18 May by Shigehiro, Wada, Mitani and Nima Temba.
   
  Central Peak climbed on 5 May by Isono, Otani and Nawang Yonden and on 18 May by Shigehiro, Wada and Mitani traversing from South Peak. 

  Main Peak climbed on 19 May by Ozaki and Ang Tshering and on 20 May by Wada and Mitani.


  Kano - 7 June 84

             South            Central         Main
  C4 - 29 Apr - 7850m     1 May - 7850m   5 May - 7800m
  C5 - 17 May - 8250m     16 May- 8200m  18 May - 8200m

  C5 not on ridge but just below to protect from wind and because little use of oxygen below C5's.

  Traverse party went along ridge from South to Central Summits, then down to C4 and Middle and up, not along ridge between Central and Middle summits. Less snow than usual this season, no time to make route on this long knife ridge. No attempt on Yalung Kang because no time.

  2 weeks between C3 and 1st C4. Very strong wind above 7000m in last half April and climbing members sent down for 1 week rest after C3 established. Strong cold winds threatened frostbite.

  Generally weather clear but strong winds till 10 May after which good weather

  Summits:

  17 May Central Summit by Isano, R Otani and Nawang Yonden.
  18 May South Summit by Shigehiro, Wada, Mitani and Nima Temba (Nima Temba
     to South C4 and ABC while 3 Japanese to Central Summit and thence to C5).
  19 May Main Summit by Ozuki and Ang Tshering by normal route and to ABC via 
     Main C4. Shigehiro's (on poor oxygen flow) to ABC good condition; Wada and
     Mitani traversed from C5 to C4 and Main C4 and Main C5.
  20 May traverse Wada and Mitani Main C5 to Main Summit to Main C5 hoping to try
     for Yalung Kang next day along ridge, but was not possible to send support
     party with oxygen, etc supplies because party too tired to reach Main C5. That
     night Kano decided to give up idea of Yalung Kang and told Wada and Mitani to
     descend next morning.
  21 May Wada and Mitani to ABC.
  22 May all members and Sherpas to BC. All climbing finished.

  South to Central summit ridge strong cold wind but technically only one part difficult. 50m section took 3 hours to overcome bare rocks this section.

  Oxygen use: Sleeping from C4 and climbing from C5's but some from C4 to C5. All attack parties used from C4's including Sherpas.

  Routes to South and Central Summits probably almost same as Poles (routes in German photos to South Summit probably not correct). Main part - ridge there almost impossible.

  Hang-gliding from M C4 to just below BC by 1 member [Tadano] who was not expert climber, who needed support and delayed climb 10 days. Tadano glided on 10 May. Support for that project, scientific work also distracted climb. Would like to see attempt in just to climb to all 4 summits by 15-16 members and 20-25 Sherpa ala porters, but would still need support camps for each summit in order to supply oxygen. Limit above 8000m without oxygen is 2 days normally and would take 3 days minimum for traverse if support parties put in some fixed ropes in advance. Oxygen supply system must be improved to last 4-5 days or support routes and supplies are required.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 20 May 1984

  On May 16 Gota Isono, Ryo Otani and Nawang Yonden (member) established C5 Central Peak at 8270m and on 17 May these 3 started to Central summit 07:00 hours from C5. Reached top 15:43 hours and returned to C5 at 18:30 hours safely. Weather that day fine.

  South Peak: 17 May C5 established by Tsuneo Shigehiro, Seishi Wada, Toichiro Mitani and Nima Temba Sherpa (member). 18 May started up from C5 to 06:30 hours and reached top at 07:30 hours; stayed there till 09:00 hours. Weather fine but strong wind. From summit Nima Temba returned to C3 safely and 3 Japanese went towards Central Peak in start of traverse. Reached Central Peak at 16:30 hours in face of strong winds. Reached C5 of Central Peak at 18:25 hours safely.

  19 May Wada and Mitani plus Masashi Teramoto planned to traverse to Main Peak while Shigehiro descended to C4 of Central Peak because of his health. Shigehero had not used oxygen from South to Central Peak and in descent to C5 of Central Peak (he was leader of traverse team).

  18 May Takashi Ozarki (born 1952, mountain guide) and Sirdar Ang Tshering (35 years, Namche) established C5 Main Peak 8250m and planned on 19 May to prepare route up to Main peak to help traverse party; only after success of traverse to Main Peak and descent to C5 of Main Peak, they will decide to traverse to West Peak (Yalung Kang).

  Film team say plan leave BC 23 or 24 May depending on Yalung Kang traverse.

accidents:
  1 Sherpa hit by falling stone between ABC & S C4 (recovered in 10 days); only slight frostbite by anyone; 2 small avalanches between central C4-C5 & near C2 but only equipment damaged & lost


expid: BHRI90101
peakid: BHRI
year: 1990
nation: UK
leaders: Elaine Brook
sponsor: British-Nepalese Joint Bhrikuti Expedition Spring 1990
countries: Japan, Nepal
bcdate: 1990-03-12
campsites: BC(12/03),xxx
agency: Sherpa Society
routememo:
  Very difficult to reach BC. Very dry (no water) so porters wouldn't go. Took mules but grass not there and grass they carried they carried finished and [mules] nearly died. Spent 2 nights at BC at 18,000 ft and left on 14th March without any climbing at all. 

  Returned Ktm 21 March and most of group left Nepal 22 March. Brook and Lhakpa leave 29 March. 13 members and 3 Sherpas reached BC. G. Shaw fell, broke his wrist and was helicoptered out one week earlier.

  Want to return on 1991 with approach march in August and climb in September.


expid: CHOY90101
peakid: CHOY
year: 1990
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: Japan
leaders: Takao Haga
sponsor: Gakushuin University Alpine Club Expedition
ascent1: 67th
bcdate: 1990-03-20
smtdate: 1990-04-27
campsites: BC(20/03,5700m),C1(05/04,6200m),C2(18/04,7150m),C3(20/04,7400m),Smt(27/04)
accidents: Only altitude problems for 5-6 members who used Gamov bag and stayed at BC
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Big problem about gear to BC with yaks refusing to go so far. Only one summit party succeeded. Second party on 1st May reached 7800m and then turned back by snowstorm and feared avalanching. No more attempts after that.


expid: DORJ91401
peakid: DORJ
year: 1991
route1: W Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Song Ki-Bo
sponsor: 1991-92 Korea Winter Jugal Himal Expedition to Dorje Lhakpa
ascent1: 7th
approach: From west via Kyanju Gompa
bcdate: 1991-11-29
smtdate: 1991-12-16
smttime: 1230
termdate: 1991-12-19
campsites: BC(29/11,4850m),C1(04/12,5300m),C2(07/12,5800m),C3(12/12,6300m),Smt(16/12)
achievment: 1st Korean attempt and 1st winter attempt
agency: Universal Trekking Network
routememo:
  BC at Langshisa Glacier
  C1 at Col

  1st summit attack 13th Dec by all members and Ang Kami reached 6700m, then retreated to C3 because late (2:30 pm) and tired. Now not enough food in C3 so all down to C2 to get more food and 2 members to C1 not in good condition. 15th Song, Jung and Ang Kami up to C3 and 11th to summit: left C3 4:00 am, on top at 12:30 and back to C3 (left summit 1:20 pm and arrived C3 4:00 pm); down to BC 5:00 pm. Difficult knife ridge from C5 to snow face above C3 which (face) very steep.

accidents:
  Nothing serious; Jung fell 50m when snowbar came out while descending from top to C3 but not injured


expid: EVER91403
peakid: EVER
year: 1991
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Teuk-Hee
sponsor: Korean Winter Everest Expedition
bcdate: 1991-11-23
smtdate: 1991-12-20
termdate: 1991-12-24
termnote: Abandoned at 8600m due to cold and wind
campsites: BC(22/11,5350m),C1(01/12,6100m),C2(03/12,6450m),C3(08/12,7200m),C4(10/12,7900m),xxx(20/12,8600m)
accidents: Slight frostbite by 3 summit attackers; Yoon altitude sickness & never above BC
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  12th Dec Song and 2 Sherpas to col but winds strong and down on 13th. 20th Dec again 1 member and 2 Sherpas to col, very cold windy and down on 21st. 20th started about 2:00 am for top but after 2 hrs reported by radio very cold, very strong wind and turning back at 8600m which could reach quickly because no snow on route and Chuldin knew short quick way to top. Was full-moon night; after one hour's climb oxygen units clogged by ice and no more flow. 

  Icefall route and route to C2 made by Japanese and Korean S Pillar team and this team paid $3000 to S Pillar team.

  Chuldim Dorje from Khumjung, atop Everest 1989 Japanese expedition and Makalu 1990 German. Ang Tshering from Pangboche, atop Manaslu Australian expedition 1987.


expid: NEMJ91401
peakid: NEMJ
year: 1991
route1: W Spur of N Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Richard Emerson
sponsor: British Winter Himlung Himal Expedition
bcdate: 1991-11-21
smtdate: 1991-12-19
termdate: 1991-12-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6050m due to steepness of ridge with weather closing in
campsites: BC(21/11,4050m),ABC(25/11,4400m),C1(01/12,5050m),C2(18/12,5400m),xxx(19/12,6050m)
accidents: None
agency: Unknown
routememo:
  Expeditions to Himlung prior to 1992 were probably climbing Nemjung.

  BC  at Pokutal
  ABC at head of glacier
  C1  at couloir system (but not in a couloir) 
  High point at left side of South Ridge.

  From ABC climbed an icefall under S Ridge and above that into couloir system leading to W Spur of S Ridge. Worked on route until 16th Dec, when started to make summit attempts; is a long route. Made C2 at 5400m but not permanent camp and others had slept higher. No good place for camps on narrow ridge below 6000m; lower sites very places for a tent. Etherington went solo on 17th from ABC for a summit bid of possible and got to 6050m up couloir to left of S Ridge and right of seracs. At 6050m got too steep and he came down; reached high point at 4:00 am on 19th having climbed through the night. No bad winds during climb. 1 member reached BC 19th, had had enough and left BC 21st. In descent met 2 going up and told them no point in going up; anyway they could see clouds coming into bring snowfall. Turned back at 5600m, reached C1 on 19th, ABC 20th, BC 21st. On 21st night snow fall began. Was quite a lot of rock fall as snow melted; falling rock got very bad the longer they stayed, made hole in Emerson's rucksack and cut same ropes. Put ropes in parts of couloir and spur. The sign post on this route is the pinnacle that stands out at top of spur.


expid: AMAD91401
peakid: AMAD
year: 1991
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Warwick Baird
sponsor: Australian Winter Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 95th (w/Kor)
bcdate: 1991-11-25
smtdate: 1991-12-15
termdate: 1991-12-17
campsites: BC(25/11,4500m),Dep(01/12,5300m),C1(09/12,5800m),C2(10/12,6100m),C3(13/12,6450m),Smt(15/12)
accidents: Moon sickness (instantly) only
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  BC at normal site above Mingbo
  C2 never slept here but took gear here.

  Moon got too sick to climb and during night of 1/2 Dec retreated to BC and onto Khunde. Returned to depot later after trying to recover at Namche but never got to C1. After Moon decided he was not climbing anymore said talked with Koreans about their Sherpas belaying him but Koreans needed themselves. Baird helped Sherpas find route and worked with them and climbed with Sherpas. From C3 wanted to go to top on 14th but Koreans and Sherpas not ready for summit push and Baird, not wanting to go alone, waited till next day and went to top.


expid: BHRI91401
peakid: BHRI
year: 1991
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Romolo Nottaris
sponsor: Swiss Bhrikuti Expedition
approach: Tanga Yaragau->lake
bcdate: 1991-11-27
smtdate: 1991-11-30
termdate: 1991-12-01
termnote: Abandoned at 5500m due to wind
campsites: BC(27/11,4900m),xxx(30/11,5500m)
accidents: Cattaneo slight altitude sickness
agency: Tip & Top Trekking
routememo:
  BC northwest of Bhrikuti.

  Most (local) porters did not go beyond Yanagau. Only 3 Sherpa porters went beyond here over the passes (4090m, 5300m and 5450m high) and down to lake at 4900m. Porters went over 2 passes but not the last one, which was very steep to reach. 5 members arrived at BC (Nottaris cooked) and stayed 2 days. Very bad wind. Then Cattaneo got altitude sickness so Nottaris and he went back to 5300m pass while Nesa and Dellatorre tried to climb and reached 5500m and back same day because of wind and meet at 5300m pass. 1 Dec all 5 members to Yara. 

  In winter a very long route very difficult because of wind.


expid: ROCN91401
peakid: ROCN
year: 1991
route1: S Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Dong-Myung
sponsor: Tae Ryun Alpine Club Winter Khangsar Kang Expedition
bcdate: 1991-12-04
smtdate: 1991-12-12
termdate: 1991-12-14
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to impossible to find route
campsites: BC(04/12,4200m),ABC(07/12,4500m),C1(08/12,5300m),C2(12/12,6500m),xxx(12/12,6600m)
accidents: None
achievment: 1st winter attempt
agency: Universal Trekking Network
routememo:
  BC  at normal Annapurna South Face site
  ABC also in Annapurna Sanctuary
  C2  100m below Icefall (camp pitched but not slept in)
  High point at start of Icefall.

  Much snowafall: all members and Sherpas to C1 on 8 Dec but C2 made only on 12 Dec following 2 days (10-11 Dec) of snow fall. C2 made 100m below an icefall with many crevasses. Had no ladders and so did not go into icefall for; needed 5-7 ladders and had none at all. On 13th searched for alternate routes, but none found and all in ABC that day and 14th all to BC. 12th spent pitching C2 and looking for route forward: slept in C1; 13th up to C2 to bring it down. 1600m rope fixed between C1 and C2 in dangerous glacier.


expid: PUMO91401
peakid: PUMO
year: 1991
route1: SE Face
nation: UK
leaders: Glenn Rowley
sponsor: 1991/92 British Winter Pumori Expedition
bcdate: 1991-11-21
smtdate: 1991-12-02
termdate: 1991-12-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6250m due to dangerous serac falls
campsites: BC(21/11,5350m),xxx(02/12,6250m)
accidents: None
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  BC near lake (normal site)
  High point at bivouac at normal C2.

  Looked at S Ridge above Kalapattar but no snow on mountain and had no permit for this route (which would be difficult but safe). Then looked at far right side of SE Face directly to E Face, the only safe route on face at this time and probably never climbed and technically very hard and exposed to winds. 

  So then decided to try normal route: only 4 actually climbed: Callen, S Holmes, Ralphs and Wharton. 1 Dec Callen and Wharton biv at C1 at 5650m and down on 2nd, and on 2nd Holmes and Ralphs up to 6250m, where they biv. Big seracs overhung whole wall, very dangerous and on 3rd started down few minutes before big serac avalanche wiped out whole route and 3 more fell as they continued descent but all "went down gully to night of us 100 ft away" ("nothing had fallen off for a whole week" previously. "We had been watching it"). Back safely to BC. Others had thought to go up. Left BC 5 Dec. Fixed no rope because entire route had been fixed in autumn and could use these ropes (except where serac fall had taken out one section).

  Team was accompanied part way to trekking group of 5 who did not go to base camp.


expid: EVER91402
peakid: EVER
year: 1991
route1: S Pillar-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Kwang-Jin
sponsor: 1991-92 Korean Winter Everest Expedition
bcdate: 1991-11-12
smtdate: 1991-12-14
termdate: 1991-12-21
termnote: Abandoned at 8700m due to exhaustion
campsites: BC(12/11,5350m),C1(01/12),C2(12/02,6400m),C3(09/12,7200m),C4(13/12,7850m),xxx(14/12,8700m)
achievment: 1st winter attempt on Pillar
agency: Universal Trekking Network
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Pillar
  C4 on Pillar at its top
  High point SE Ridge just below South Summit.

  Icefall very broken and route difficult to make, which was made by this expedition and Japanese. Japanese insisted all wait to climb till 1 Dec so Koreans waited. C3 on Pillar took 3 days cutting ice to make platform for 2 tents. 1st summit attack 14th Dec at 10 mins past midnight by Park Young-Seok, Han, Bir Bahadur Tamang & Sonam Tshering Sherpa - went up face and over to S Col route at 8100m. Only 2 arrived here; Sonam Tshering and Han had turned back at 7950m because in no condition (very tired and headache); Sonam and Han very tired and oxygen not working well. Park and Bir Bahadur went on up normal route and just below S Summit, 8700m and from 8100m Park not using oxygen. Park's Russian system all iced up and at 8700m Bir Bahadur's French oxygen finished and Bir Bahadur says he goes down (his oxygen finished, he very cold and wind strong) so Park also goes down because solo climb dangerous. Park and Bir Bahadur to C2 same day.

  2nd summit attack by Lee Min-Ho and Bae Kyung-Ho from C4 at 3:00 am (better time than midnight because at 1:00 am moonshine) and reached 8300m in cloudy weather and strong wind: cloud means not able to see route; returned C4 9:00 am (this their 1st climb in Himalaya). Now climb finished; others in "no condition," very tired from route making, much falling rock.


  Sarakin, Spring 1992 by Won-Woo Nam

  Last winter Mt. Everest Expedition team of the Dong Kuk University Alpine Club left Seoul on Nov 3, 1991. 10 members with the leader Kwang-Jin Kim arrived at BC on Nov 15. They set up C1 at the bottom of south-west wall on Dec 2, C3 at the height of 7200m on Dec 9 and C4 at the height of 7200m on Dec 9 and C4 at the height of 7900m.

  The first assault team of four members including two Sherpas left from C4 on Dec 14, 00:20 am. After one hour, one member and one Sherpa retreated to the C4. Climbing leader and one Sherpa advanced to the south-east ridge, they found one dead body at 8400m. They arrived at the bottom of south peak on the south-east ridge. However, Bibi Tamang refused advancing at that point and climbing leader gave up climbing up the summit. The second assault team of two members tried to climb up the summit. But, they also gave up climbing due to the strong winds.

accidents:
  2 members hit by falling rock & slightly hurt Dec 7 making route to C3; Nam 2 toes both feet frostbitten climbing C2 to C3 (may loose tips)


expid: EVER91401
peakid: EVER
year: 1991
route1: SW Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Kunaiki Yagihara
sponsor: Gunma Mountaineering Federation Winter Mt. Sagarmantha SW Face Exp.
bcdate: 1991-11-11
smtdate: 1991-12-21
termdate: 1992-02-13
termnote: Abandoned at 8350m due to wind and Sherpas not willing to carry oxygen to C5
othersmts: All 19 atop Pokalde
accidents: 3 frostbite but not loss, 1 member 3cm cut from stonefall on cheek
agency: Cosmo Treks
campsites:
  BC(11/11,5350m),C1(01/12,6020m),C2(02/12,6500m),C3(05/12,6900m),C4(11/12,7600m),C5(08/01,8350m),xxx(21/12,8350m)

routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Cwm
  C3 at start of Lhotse Face
  C4 on Lhotse Face
  C5 on Lhotse Face
  High poin at SW Face.

  Started on icefall 16th: icefall very bad condition, seracs falling daily and had to make route everyday (had 4 icefall Sherpas). 3 Sherpas to C5 - no snow in Icefall or Cwm; only 1-2 cm snowfall - only hard ice. C2 made quickly after C1 because Koreans made route C1->C3 - snow cover. 21st Dec 2 members reached C4 site but very strong wind and tent poles broken when tried to pitch tent. After C5 attempt all down to BC for rest, then up again 1 Jan after strong winds abated. Every tent broken, sound of jet plane, tents lifted up, very difficult to stand when winds very strong, even sometimes at BC - and C2 10 tents, C3 2 tents, C4 1 tent, C1 4 tents, BC many tents; at BC 2 tents broken, C2 broken and 8 poles bent, C3 2 broken, C4 1 tent broken. 8th Jan C5 pitched by 2 members but 9th strong wind and down to C2. 15th Jan again 1 to C5 2 members but again down to C1 next day because of winds. By now 10 members and 10 Sherpas had reached C5 (3 Sherpas to C5 made 10 carries). 16 and 17th Jan all members to BC and rest and waiting for better weather. 25th Jan up again and 29th Jan 5 members tried to reach C5, 2 members got there but they also back to C4 on 6th Feb, but 7th Feb back to C2 because wind and because snow fall. After 2 days waiting at C2, decided to give up: no more oxygen in C5 and Sherpas not willing to carry loads of oxygen up to C5. If they would support members, we would have tried to make route above C5 to attack summit. Sherpas no longer keen to climb.

  Took 82 oxygen cylinders - 14 tons cargo to Lukla.

  Rope fixed - in icefall Japanese and Koreans fixed half and half.
  C2-C3 bottom face above -  500m
  C3-C4                   - 1200m
  C4-C5                   - 1100m
                          _______
                            2800m

  Before expedition Yagihara had 3 fears: cold, wind, falling stones but only wind was problem - not so much cold, not so much stone.


expid: FANG91401
peakid: FANG
year: 1991
route1: E Face-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Yu Jae-Hyung
sponsor: 1991-92 Kang Weon National University Fang Expedition
bcdate: 1991-11-22
smtdate: 1991-12-18
termdate: 1992-01-04
termnote: Abandoned at 6350m due to wind, exhaustion and lack of time
accidents: Slight altitude headaches only
agency: Universal Trekking Network
campsites:
  TempBC(22/11,4000m),BC(27/11,4200m),ABC(05/12,4700m),C1(08/12,5200m),C2(10/12,5600m),C3(16/12,6100m),C4(18/12,6350m),xxx(18-19/12,01/01,6350m)

routememo:
  TBC at Annapurna BC
  BC at glacier
  C1 in icefall
  C2 at East Face bottom, top of Icefall
  C3 on East Face middle
  C4 at west side of SE Ridge.

  Porters refused to go beyond TBC so members had to ferry all loads to BC. Then after arrived BC, saw slab avalanche came down their proposed route around proposed C1 so took route different from that originally planned and used same route as Italians 11-12 years ago. C4 made just over SE Ridge and reached by 3 members on 18 Dec who slept there and down on 19th while 2 other members arrived C4, dump loads and also descended. Now snowfall started 21st and finished 25th. 27th 4 members up from ABC to C2, 4 then on next day to C3 to drop loads and sleep C2. 29th 2 members arrived C3 and sleep there and 30th towards C4 but one man's crampons broke and returned to C3. 1st Jan they reach C4 and slept there. 2nd down to ABC because had found C4 tent broken, very strong wind and very cold. Climb finished now: had planned this summit bid of 2 or 3 Jan to be the only summit bid. Now all members very tired and before coming to Nepal had planned summit attacks between 31 Dec and 5 Jan. No climbers above C4. Route technically difficult on mixed rock, snow and ice 70-80 degrees face. On W Face snow crust and snow mushrooms. SE Ridge knife-edged.

  * At C4 18 Dec - Chung, Lee, Jang; 
          19 Dec - Om and Hwang; 
           1 Jan - Jang and Lee

  On West Face snow crust and snow mushroom; SE Ridge knife edge.


expid: DHA192102
peakid: DHA1
year: 1992
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Romania
leaders: Taina Coliban
sponsor: Romanian Women's Expedition to Dhaulagiri
countries: Chile
approach: Kali Gandaki
bcdate: 1992-04-28
smtdate: 1992-05-11
termdate: 1992-05-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m+ due to disappearance of climbers
campsites: BC(28/04,4500m),Dep(29/04,4900m),C1(01/05,5700m),C2(10/05,6300m),xxx(11/05,6500m)
accidents: None
achievment: 1st Romanian attempt
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at North Col (same as ice cave as this season's Russians had used)
  C2 on NE Ridge
  C3 on NE Ridge.

  29 April deposited gear at 4900m but returned to BC same day and deposit camp never slept in. 30 April tried to go to C1 but way very long way so biv at 5100m by women and Kazi (Chilean reached only 4700m, then turned back not feeling well, went to BC, Jomsom and KTM without saying he was leaving expedition). Kazi and women spent next 4 days at C1 because of heavy snowfall; then up to C2 site without carrying loads; found place near Russians, back to C1. 6th May to deposit, got supplies and back up, trying for C1 but women very slow and deep snow so again biv at 5100m. 7th May to C1: Kazi arrived C1, dumped load and then down with Russians (to meet Chilean to BC to ask him for his share of funds for expedition expenditures. Russians were clearing their camps and said Chilean leaving soon). Kazi desending from C1 met women at 5500m, he reached BC at 1:00 pm while Chilean had left that morning. Kazi stayed at BC. Taina wanted to finish quickly and had only one small Korean tent for C2 - no walkie-talkie, no binoculars, no communications. Kazi alone at BC (no cook, LO went to Jomsom and then PKR, never at BC). Taina told Kazi to stay at BC; he suggested he would go to C2 when they planned summit bid, so he would be in support at C2, but she said he should not go up from BC alone. Kazi on 11th May saw them at 6500m then going from C2 to intended C3 site on at snow ridge; weather clear till 22 May 1 afternoon little cloudy, little snow but no storms. 

  On 6th May Taina said they would spend only 2 weeks on mountain. Letter from Taina dated 9th May from above C1 (brought by Russians) said they went to C2 and left supplies there: on 10th would go to sleep in C2, and we are feeling well and want to come down as soon as possible, but now "will be going up, up, up". Kazi had written her that Chilean had taken stove at BC and she sent him one stove [...with her had not cleared their C4 at 7400m and had left rope Tania had given them and they had fixed above C4...]. Maybe they were blown away in tent, which was not good and not strong, at C3 which exposed to wind 23 May heavy snowfall. Tried to go to Jomsom to send message but storm drove him back. 24 May nice weather - went down to get porters. 26 May clear weather. 27 May returned to BC with porter. Strong wind only 17 or 18 May.

  29 May Kazi and porter left BC when he left food and fuel in basket but took only tent and stove there; left note saying he left on 29 May very worried. C3 site visible from BC but tent not seen.


  Ministry of Tourism - 7 June
  Romanian Dhaulagiri I

  11 May two left C2 for C3 (no altitude); seen by sirdar at BC; sent message with saying to wait till return, but didn't turn up till 29 May so sirdar assumed they dead and left BC May 29 they had limit food and had spent so long time on mountain.


  Interview with Kazi Sherpa on 10 June 1992, after his return to KTM from Romanian Dhaulagiri I expedition

  Base camp was established at the normal site for attempt on the NE Ridge at 4500m on 28th April, and C1 was placed in an ice cave on the North Col at 5700m on 1 May. Four days were spent by the two women members and Kazi in C1 because of heavy snowfall, then they climbed up to the site for C2 at 6300m on the NE Ridge without carrying supplies to it immediately, and descended to a supply depot 4900m. On 7th May Kazi carried supplies to C1, left them there and descended; during his descent he met the two women at about 5500m while there were on their way up from a biv they had slept in at 5100m (they had been ascending slowly and there was deep snow). Kazi went to base camp and the women on up to C1.

  The team's supplies were meager, and there was only one small red Korean tent for C2, not enough space for three people. They had no binoculars, no system of communications between base camp and higher camps. Taina wanted to finish the climb quickly and told Kazi to stay at base camp while they went for the summit so that he could be in a position to help them if necessary, but Taina said he should not go up from base camp alone, and by now there were no other climbers on the mountain.

  The women occupied C2 on 10 May, and on the following day at about 11:00 am or 12:00 noon, he saw them moving up from C2 towards C2, which was expected to be at about 700m on the ridge. There were at about 6500m when he saw them. He never saw them again. The site for C3 was visible from base camp, but he never saw a tent.

  The weather until 22 May was clear in the mornings, afternoons cloudy with light snowfall. Then on 23 May there was a big storm with heavy snowfall; he tried to go to Jomsom that day to send a message to KTM that the women had disappeared, but the storm drove him back to base camp. On 24 May he left base camp briefly to fetch a porter to help him carry loads from base camp; when he left base for the final time on 29 May, he left at base camp some food and fuel in a basket with a note, but he took with him the only tent and stove still there because he had to have them for his own trek out.

  Kazi believes they probably were blown away in their tent, which was not strong, and its pegs also were not strong. There were strong wind on 17 and 18 May.

  C1 on snow and ice face and many crevasses; BC to ABC also many crevasses and many icefall and strong wind and frequent snowfall.


expid: DORJ92101
peakid: DORJ
year: 1992
route1: W Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Carlos Buhler
sponsor: 1992 International Dorje Lhakpa Expedition
ascent1: 8th
countries: UK
bcdate: 1992-04-02
smtdate: 1992-04-13
smttime: 1355
termdate: 1992-05-02
campsites: BC(02/04,4850m),Biv1(07-08/04,5500m),Biv2(12/04,5800m),Smt(13/04)
accidents: Aylward (altitude?) & went to nearest village for 4 days (went to 5800m only)
achievment: 1st American ascent
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC at Langshisa Glacier just north of Karshuram on MT map.

  Buhler soloed climb because of Aylward's illness and because of it, did not attempt near route as originally planned. Had to ferry loads from a pre-BC which reached on 27th March at 4680m because most porters didn't want to go beyond (didn't want to go onto glacier). Buhler and Lhakpa Dorje went to col (a trekking route) to acclimatization on 4th April and again on 7th. On 7th put tent just above col and slept there 2 nights; Lhakpa Dorje decided wouldn't climb hard blue ice, very sharp ridge and they had no rope to fix. 8th Buhler climbed up ridge to 6100m to acclimatize and see route. 9th took tent down and descended to BC, assuming would try new route on NW Face. At BC found Alyward not fit to climb; suggested Aylward go down to Kyangjin Gamapa village while Buhler went up ridge ("I was terrified of it - it's very exposed"). 12th Buhler left BC at 7:30 am and climbed to 5800m on West Ridge. 13th went to top ("it was quite hard for me - I almost turned around 3 or 4 times - I found it exposed, delicate climbing with problems quite hard for me to solve by myself"). Left biv at 5:00 am on 13th and on top at 1:55 pm. Problems were an exposed knife-edge ridge front pointing much of the way on ridge; number of broken seracs & big crevasse; had to leave ridge at 6300m and go over to snow face; fell into a crevasse at big bergschrund across face, climbed out of it, and managed finally got over this bergschrund, the most difficult part of the climb. "I reached the top quite nervous about the descent" in perfect weather; did not actually have serious problems in descent but moved very slowly, used other team's fixed ropes where available and took 8 hrs to return to biv at 10:00 pm at 5800m, exhausted in 14th to BC. 

  Alyward returned to BC same day. Buhler took 5 days rest while Aylward and Lhakpa Dorje went up for acclimatization, for 2 days. Then 2 members to 5800m to see possible route on NW Face, returned to BC (now last 10 days of April in which snow in afternoons but hoped for clearing of weather); when by 1st May there was too much snow on mountain and gave up.


expid: DHA192101
peakid: DHA1
year: 1992
route1: NE Ridge
nation: USSR
leaders: Vladimir Moussienko, Erwin Beyerlein
sponsor: Swabian-Siberian Expedition Dhaulagiri
ascent1: 53rd
countries: Germany
bcdate: 1992-04-10
smtdate: 1992-04-30
smttime: 0945
termdate: 1992-05-12
accidents: Baessler bronchitis; Smetanin slight frostbitten toes
agency: Mustang
campsites:
  BC(10/04,4620m),C1(04/04,5700m),C2(20/04,6300m),C3(27/04,7000m),C4(28/04,7400m),C5(29/04,7700m),Smt(30/04)

routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at North Col (ice cave and tent).

  30th 5 members left C5 6:30 am, on top 9:45 am & returned to C5 very tired at 12 noon. 2 May Weinzierle died in his sleep at 5 am; had been heard at 4-4:30 coughing alone in his tent & at 5:30 am friends look into his tent & found him lying in his sleeping bag, body cold, eyes open; was very very tired, last to arrive at C3 on 1 May; heart stopped. "All Germans had bad training - too much had been in Germany" & none went above C3. When he died, they all went to BC unable to go back up to C3 to remove him. After 9 days 3 Russians went up, dug a grave in the ice & buried him in it; covering him with ice.

  Expedition reported to Nepalese government only 4 summiters because had paid for only 10 members total, not 12.


expid: DHA292101
peakid: DHA2
year: 1992
route1: S Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Ryu Si-Dong
sponsor: 1992 Korean Palgong Alpine Club Dhaulagiri II Expedition
approach: Myagdi Khola->Puchher and north
bcdate: 1992-03-05
smtdate: 1992-04-06
termdate: 1992-04-12
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to route problem (crevasses) and daily snowfall
campsites: BC(05/03,3550m),ABC(18/03,4900m),C1(26/03,5100m),C2(02/04,5700m),xxx(06/04,6300m)
accidents: None
agency: Universal Trekking Network
routememo:
  BC  near point 3770m on Dhaulagiri map
  ABC west of point 3770m and east of north-south ridge
  C1  on South Face
  C2  on South Face
  High point on South Face.

  C1 on snow and ice face and many crevasses. BC to ABC also many crevasses and many icefalls and strong wind and frequent snowfall. C1 to C2 difficult climbing on snow and ice face; many crevasses above C2 and very difficult ice face. Route and face different from 1986 when not nearly so many crevasses. Wanted to place C3 at 6700m but could not go higher than 6300m because still more crevasses, snowfall everyday and icefalls.


expid: GAN292101
peakid: GAN2
year: 1992
route1: NE Spur-N Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Jong-Min
sponsor: Korea Ganesh Himal II Expedition
bcdate: 1992-03-16
smtdate: 1992-04-20
termdate: 1992-04-23
termnote: Abandoned at 6820m due to route difficulty and supplies exhausted
campsites: BC(16/03,4000m),C1(19/03,4800m),C2(26/03,5400m),C3(04/04,6300m),xxx(20/04,6820m)
accidents: Slight frostnip
agency: Universal Trekking Network
routememo:
  This mountain previously known as Ganesh III until re-surveyed in early 1990's.

  Many crevasses just below C3 requiring lengthy route to go around them. After C3 made, all down to BC for 3 days rest, then up to C3 and fixing rope above C3. Very steep ice at 6800m and rock band from 6600m mixed rock and very difficult. On 21st all down to BC because more importantly route above 6820m very steep and frequently climbers falling here (only left side of rock band is possible). Tamangs were on Everest Col route last winter and this rock band more difficult than Everest. Another problem was frequent snowfall in late March which dumped fresh snow from BC to C1.


expid: TUKU92101
peakid: TUKU
year: 1992
route1: NW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Georges Derycke
sponsor: French Tukuche Expedition
approach: Jomsom (by air->Dhampus Pass)
bcdate: 1992-05-24
smtdate: 1992-05-27
termdate: 1992-05-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to lack of time
campsites: BC(24/05,4976m),Biv(26/05,5600m),xxx(27/05,6700m)
accidents: Boutianaud headache and stayed on BC to avoid altitude sickness
agency: Pabil Treks
routememo:
  BC  in Hidden Valley
  Biv on ridge running north-northeast of point 5087m.

  Expedition sponsored by Belgian Clinical especially to test altitude medication - hence fast.
   
  Made BC in Hidden Valley because deep snow in French Pass. On 27th left biv early (3:00 am) for summit. Climbed southwards along ridge then on along NW Ridge of Tukuche and 50m out on to N Face. Stopped at point on NW Ridge past junction of ridge from point 6839m where would have to fix rope, but fixing would take too much of time when saw snowstorm coming.

  Stopped at 11:20 am and turned back and returned to BC at 5:00 pm and climb finished. Had been big physical effort for 5 days and now no time for any 2nd bid. In good weather and good condition, it is possible to climb in one day. Showed by this climb intended result: possible for near professional with 6 months training to climb high without oxygen.


expid: SAIP92101
peakid: SAIP
year: 1992
route1: NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Chuck Evans
sponsor: British Saipal Expedition
countries: Ireland
bcdate: 1992-04-26
smtdate: 1992-05-15
termdate: 1992-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 5700m due to lack of time
campsites: BC(26/04,3650m),ABC(29/04,3850m),C1(03/05,4750m),C2(10/05,5100m),xxx(15/05,5700m)
accidents: Nuru broke foot and ankle
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC  at 3 miles down valley 
  ABC at head of glacier at bottom of East Face
  C1  at Col
  C2  on col where ridge runs north into Humla.

  Huge avalanches constantly coming down all across east face, which would have given access to NE Ridge or bad icefall. Tried to get round to north side of NE Ridge, which involved crossing series of ridges via their col or along these ridges. When reached C2 realized had to go down again, cross icefalls and more ridges so too long a route ahead for time available. If choosing to do this route again, would approach from north to begin with - would be a nice route. On 15th decided to abandon this approach and explore south side of East Face as reconnaissance. 

  16 May descending below C2; Tenzing fell but Ok; Nuru slid/stopped, fell down gully and 10 minutes later C Evans did same and both landed on lip of bergschrund. Nuru evacuated by helicopter.


expid: CHOY92101
peakid: CHOY
year: 1992
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: Sweden
leaders: Goran Kropp
sponsor: Swedish Cho Oyu Expedition 1992
ascent1: 99th w/Bel
countries: UK
bcdate: 1992-04-08
smtdate: 1992-05-07
termdate: 1992-05-15
accidents: Rapp altitude sickness
agency: Peak Promotion
campsites:
  BC(08/04),ABC(16/04,5800m),C1(20/04,6000m),C2(23/04,6450m),C3(01/05,6850m),C4(06/05,7400m),Smt(07/05)

routememo:
  BC at road
  C2 as C1 moved here
  C3 called C2.                                                                                                                                                                      
  7th May all members except Nygren from C4 at 9:30 am Chinese time with Belgians. Yangrot to 7500m; Hillberg rested in C4 while Kropp stayed with him and cooked for him. Hillberg went to 1st summit on 9th only because bad weather and did not see there was a higher summit.


expid: CHOY92105
peakid: CHOY
year: 1992
route1: W Ridge-W Face from S
nation: Belgium
leaders: Bernard Mousny
sponsor: Belgian Himalayan Expedition 1992/Cho Oyu
ascent1: 99 w/Swe; 100 w/Ita
bcdate: 1992-04-22
smtdate: 1992-05-07
termdate: 1992-05-14
accidents: None except Philippe great pain in arm from unknown cause
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(22/04,5017m),C1(25/04,5700m),C2(26/04,5870m),C3(01/05,6350m),C4(05/05,6900m),C5(06/05,7400m),Smt(07-08/05)

routememo:
  BC at Lunag, below Kangchung
  C1 just before Nangpa La
  C2 "u" of Khumbu (west side of glacier)
  C3 45 minutes below snow ridge
  C4 just above the seracs
  C5 on West Face (same other's last camp).

  BC at Lunag very low because expected sites above and Lunag to be very windy. 7th May Gilbert tried for summit with Debrouwer and reached 7570m on rock barrier and returned because toes begining to freeze, stopping just in time to prevent serious frostbite. 

  On 8th Danu left Le Bon on top and he had rucksack with food and drink and she arrived at C5 at 19:00 hours on her knees very tired and in need of drink; Swedish summiter gave her oxygen from his supply (Belgium oxygen was in a lower camp) and she used it for 3 hours.

  On summit on 8th May in this order:
    2 Italians (Ongis and G. Viganco)
    1 German (Lutterjohann)
    Le Bon
    Danu 
    3rd Italian


expid: CHOY92106
peakid: CHOY
year: 1992
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: Germany
leaders: Hans Eitel
sponsor: International Mountain Climbing (IMC) Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 101
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 1992-04-26
smtdate: 1992-05-14
campsites: BC(26/04,4800m),ABC(02/05,5700m),C1(04/05,6400m),C2(12/05,7000m),C3(13/05,7400m),Smt(14/05)
accidents: Altitude sickness by 6 members and kitchen boy
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  No climbing problems. 1st summit bid from C3 on 14th May Kowalzik, Musal Kaji Tamang and Ang Mingma Sherpa: Sherpa turned back at 7600m with headache while others to summit. Only people to summit that day and slept in C3 and 15th to ABC.

  2nd summit party from C3 on 20th May, Monnerat and Rusterholz reached 7800m; strong wind, cloudy and cold so both turned back. Philippe Monnerat tried to go directly to C3 instead of following expedition's route, fell at serac, badly injured; Markus found him and pulled him to C3. 3 Nepalese sent up from ABC to help (doctor sick and unable to go up) and 2 members with them. Nepalese on 21 May brought Philippe to C2 and 22nd 5 people brought him down through icefall in bivouac sack to 6700m and here he died; buried him in nearby crevasse.

  Eigenmann left BC 29 April with "lung sickness" (never went above ABC).

  Hirche, Wildersinn, Claudia Carl, Meyer and Lattmann left ABC 15 and 16 May, not well; some altitude sickness, some found mountain too much for them after having done some climbing.


expid: CHOY92102
peakid: CHOY
year: 1992
route1: W Ridge-W Face from S
nation: USA
leaders: Donald McIntyre
sponsor: 1992 Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 1992-04-11
smtdate: 1992-04-17
termdate: 1992-04-26
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to dangerous rockfall in Messner Couloir and risk of being caught by Chinese
campsites: BC(11/04,5275m),Dep(16/04,5640m),Biv(17/04,6100m),C1(18/04,5975m),xxx(17/04,6100m)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC at Kangchung's true site 
  Depot at depot site (but slept in)
  Biv on Messner couloir
  C1 at south of border.

  Never went to Samma Glacier because 1st route too difficult. After making BC at Kangchung, for 6 days carried loads to depot 2 km before Nangpa La. Then 3 members made into Messner couloir up as far as 20,000 ft, where 300m cirque 45-60 degrees rock bowl. So turned back after 1 hour of observation; camped there one night. On 18th went across Nangpa La, saw German BC and not wanting to get caught, decided to abandon Cho Oyu. Camped at 1/2 km south of border and kept camp there until 23rd. On 20th 3 members climbed N Face of Pt 6210m in 8 hrs round trip to top and back. 21st other 3 members repeated climb of Pt 6210m. 22nd only 2 tried at 6600m and got half way up it; forced to turn in start of big wind and snowstorm blowing up. 23rd packed up and retreated to depot, packed up last few loads there and down to BC that night. 2 members tried Pt 6296, got half way of it. McIntyre back to BC 23rd and he and Kilgore left immediately. Marsh had already left, kicked off team (personality conflict and failure to acclimatize); left team 13th or 14th. On 1st night camped at 19,600 ft, [encountered] 4 Chinese students including 1 woman as refugees escaping in street shoes and little food and no tent; US members lead them to depot for safety.


expid: CHOY92107
peakid: CHOY
year: 1992
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: Germany
leaders: Peter Geyer
sponsor: DAV Summit Club Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 102
countries: Austria
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1992-05-02
smtdate: 1992-05-17
termdate: 1992-05-30
accidents: Finkbeiner will lose tips of 2 frostbitten fingers; nothing else
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
campsites:
  BC(02/05,4800m),ABC(06/05,5400m),C1(09/05,5900m),C2(10/05,6400m),C3(15/05,7100m),C4(16/05,7400m),Smt(17/05)

routememo:
  BC yak drivers camp.

  16th May Burisch, Baumnn and Finkbeiner C4 with 2 Sherpas. 17th May all down (not feeling well) except Finkbeiner, who went to summit in good weather alone fighting with himself to push on and getting frostbitten toes and fingers; took 8 hrs from C4 to top and returned to empty C4 to sleep there. No more reached C4; went to C3 17th May but not above; they waited in C3 to help Finkbeiner descend. 22nd May 3 members to C3, but 23rd May big storm and down on 24th.

  Burisch and Baumann left BC 19th May because their climbing finished.


expid: CHOY92103
peakid: CHOY
year: 1992
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: Italy
leaders: Giuseppe Vigani
sponsor: Alpine Expedition to Cho Oyu
ascent1: 100
bcdate: 1992-04-17
smtdate: 1992-05-08
smttime: 1700
termdate: 1992-05-17
campsites: BC(17/04),ABC(21/04,5700m),C1(30/04,6200m),C2(06/05,6700m),C3(07/05,7400m),Smt(08/05)
accidents: Ghezzi pulmonary edema and left expedition; Soregaroli slight frostbitten finger
agency: Trekking International
routememo:
  BC at road.

  Summit attack began 5th May from ABC. Slept C1 and 6th May took one of C2's tents and pitched it at 6700m (this by 5 members) and and back to ABC while 3 members to summit; left C3 at 9 am Chinese time (6:45 am Nepali time) and on top 5and 6 pm Chinese time. Soregaroli slower to top because carried paraglider (which did not use because had no one with him to assist in take off). 3 summiters slept in C3; this the only summit bid because others not strong enough.

  C2 tents pitched at 6600m 1 May but no one slept there until some who went some who went up after summit success to clear equipment from mountain.

  13 May Soregaroli paraglided from point 6395m and kept in air one hour.

  Ghezzi developed pulmonary edema in ABC and left expedition on 24 April for KTM with Caffi (the doctor who had to leave early anyway) and Brentini.


expid: AMAD92103
peakid: AMAD
year: 1992
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Robin Beadle
sponsor: Himalayan Kingdoms Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Canada, New Zealand, USA
bcdate: 1992-04-13
smtdate: 1992-04-24
termdate: 1992-05-02
termnote: Abandoned at 6550m due to snowfall over several days
campsites: BC(13/04,4500m),C1(17/04,5700m),C2(20/04,6000m),C3(22/04,6300m),xxx(24/04,6550m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Amtrek
routememo:
  4 members made summit bid on 24th; Bridgeman and Robinson turned back at 6400m because of hard ice; Beadle and Thompson reached final serac band to 6550m and turned back because of snow falling and down to C3. 

  2nd summit party intending to make bid also from C3, but never above C3 all got back to BC on 1st. 

  Geher to C1 "decided it wasn't for him" and left very early. Smith and Wells left after Spaniard's fatal fall and Bridgeman after his summit bid.


expid: AMAD92104
peakid: AMAD
year: 1992
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Ross Ashe-Cregan
sponsor: Ultimate Challenge to Ama Dablam
ascent1: 99th
bcdate: 1992-04-19
smtdate: 1992-05-04
termdate: 1992-05-08
campsites: BC(19/04,4400m),ABC(21/04,5180m),C1(22/04,5700m),C2(28/04,5900m),C3(03/05,6550m),Smt(04/05)
accidents: Nothing serious but falling rock did hit 4 climbers
agency: Highland Sherpa
routememo:
  BC  at normal site
  ABC below ridge
  C1  on ridge.

  No more summit attempts because of heavy snowfall; had lot of strong winds and heavy snowfall over 3 days which meant conditions on mountain were changing dramatically, with rock and hard ice being exposed by the wind and powder snow avalanches and some serac fall above C3. These conditions caused other British team to leave mountain and this team to make one summit bid. Only 2 in this push because of lack of space for tents at C2 and C3 and others on mountain on same time. Summiters had no visibility on summit and Jiggins almost went over the side through a crevasse.


expid: AMAD92101
peakid: AMAD
year: 1992
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: David Nettle
sponsor: Spring 1992 Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 97th
bcdate: 1992-03-31
smtdate: 1992-04-10
smttime: 1630
termdate: 1992-04-12
campsites: BC(31/03,4900m),C1(04/04,5824m),C2(09/04,6100m),Smt(10/04)
accidents: None
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC above Mingbo
  C1 at normal C1 site
  C2 at normal C2 site "Red Towers" camp.

  Made 1st summit attempt on 3 April; reached site of normal C1, snowstorm blew up on 4th and turned back leaving tents at C1 and descended to BC. 8th started up again reoccupied C1. 9th moved everything to C2. 10th to top at 4:30 pm having left camp at 4:30 am; reached C2 at 1:30 am in slow careful descent in clear night with some moonlight but some cold wind; had gotten off the Ama Dablam and below problem area before night fall. Back in BC 11th. 

  Very, very dry - all ice very hard and very technical. This made it technically very exciting - rock all bare and easy to climb. Had only 1 climbing rope; fixed ropes from previous expedition's removed but very unsafe because so much snow and ice had melted.

  Had only one climbing rope and one for rappels. Fixed ropes from previous expeditions remained but very unsafe because so much snow and ice had melted.


expid: PUMO92101
peakid: PUMO
year: 1992
route1: SE Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Christof Drechsel
sponsor: Pumori Expedition
countries: Germany
bcdate: 1992-03-18
smtdate: 1992-03-24
termdate: 1992-03-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to wind and new snowfall and limited equipment
campsites: BC(18/03,5300m),C1(24/03,6300m),xxx(24/03,6300m)
accidents: Only Mrs Drechsal bad headache
agency: Nepal Trek House
routememo:
  BC near Kalapattar's lake
  C1 at 50m below SE Face.

  18th to 21st spent in BC area by two members while Dreschel's wife and LO went down for one night at Lobuche because of her bad headache. These two returned to BC on 20th on which afternoon it snowed. 22nd 2 men up to site C1 and left tent, 23rd men again to C1 site to leave supplies, 24th 3 members to C1: men slept there 2 nights while Mrs Dreschel retreated to BC on 24th. Men stayed in tent all 25th and down to BC 26th. Left BC 27th.


expid: CHOY92108
peakid: CHOY
year: 1992
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: Germany
leaders: Reinhard Schmitz
sponsor: German Cho Oyu Expedition Krickhausen Finale
ascent1: 103,104
countries: Austria
bcdate: 1992-05-11
smtdate: 1992-05-27
termdate: 1992-06-08
campsites: BC(11/05,4700m),ABC(12/05,5300m),C1(15/05,6000m),C2(17/05,6800m),C3(26/05,7400m),Smt(27/05,04/06)
agency: Himalayan Paradise
routememo:
  After 17th May a lot of bad weather: windy and snowfall. Schneider alone to top from C2 because he the only member in condition to make attempt; C3 was already pitched. 25 May left C2 and biv at 7100m in Eitel expedition tent. 26 May occupied C3 on 26th and 27th to true summit and back to C3. Returned to ABC on 28th ("I'm hungry").

  29th had bad accident: Kramer alone reached 1st Summit, was too late for true summit and during descent, fell 10-12m on rocks at 7700m; broke leg badly and rescued by people in C3 saw him fall and heard his calls. 3 members reached him that night and brought him down 100m above C3, survived night and in next 2 days brought down to C1 by 31 May. Tibetans hired to bring him to ABC on 1st June and BC by yak to BC all the way to Tingri. Guggemos and Schumacher brought Kramer to C1, left C1 on 2nd June to go to top; 3rd to C3 and on true summit 4th; back in ABC 5th.

  Kramer's accident probably prevented 5 more members from reaching summit because of involvement in rescue - so happy he survived. He with Siegers and doctor left ABC 3rd June.

accidents:
  Kramer's badly broken leg; Siegers' frostbitten toes during Kramer's rescue on May 29 (lose tips of toes?)


expid: AMAD92102
peakid: AMAD
year: 1992
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Jose Goni
sponsor: Navarra Ama Dablam Expedition 1992
ascent1: 98th
bcdate: 1992-04-08
smtdate: 1992-04-19
smttime: 1830
termdate: 1992-04-23
campsites: BC(08/04,4500m),C1(10/04,5700m),C2(12/04,6100m),C3(18/04,6300m),Smt(19/04)
accidents: Goni fatal fall
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C2 same as US this spring (at Red Tower)
  C3 at beginning of serac.

  On 19th last part was very hard and we arrived on top late; had left C3 at 9 am on very cold day and got to top at 6:30 pm together, took photos and turned back to descent quickly because getting dark. Prepared 60m rappel and down with no trouble, but when Jose Goni descended, the snow stake (60cm long) came out and he fell 1500m down South Face and body was seen 2 days later by binoculars from C1.

  Carlos Goni spent night in crevasse 150m from top and Iraizoz and Villanueva at summit. Jose Goni had taken their rope with him, they could not descent without rope in light (dark by 7 pm). 20th 3 survivors reached C3 together and slept there; 21st arrived at BC. 2 UK members met them, gave them drink and accompanied to C1. In C1 were Spanish members to go to BC with them. This morning Carlos Goni and Villaneuva by helicopter from BC to Kathmandu, but are really OK with only frostnip.


expid: PUMO92102
peakid: PUMO
year: 1992
route1: SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Seo Seong-Soo
sponsor: 1992 Korean Pumori Paragliding Expedition
ascent1: 76th
bcdate: 1992-04-30
smtdate: 1992-05-12
smttime: 1345
termdate: 1992-05-15
campsites: BC(30/04,5300m),C1(02/05,5800m),C2(04/05,6300m),C3(11/05,6800m),Smt(12/05)
accidents: Kwon altitude sickness; Kang Seak-Gyu altitude sickness (headaches), only briefly to C1
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC above Gorak Shep
  C1 on SE Face
  C2 on SW Ridge
  C3 on SW Ridge.

  C1 and C2 all snow and ice, very steep, very difficult. C2 and C3 difficult rock saw-tooth ridge. C3 to summit not difficult. Summit day: started 4 am, on top 1:45 pm when reported very tired, had moved very slowly and by now clouding over. Stayed on top 40 minutes; descended slowly, clouds in and out, lost radio contact 4:40 pm, when were in C3 and well but very tired. During night Kang heard avalanche. 13th no movements on mountain and 14th Kang and Ang Tshering went up to see what happened because summit past, should have reached BC. Reached C3 on 14th and found C3 site completely empty except for one left-hand glove lying on snow. C3 site had not been chosen carefully.


  Ministry of Tourism - 18 May

  4 summiters of 12 May missing:  
    1) leader Seong
    2) Yeong-Deok Seo
    3) Baek-Gyoen Kim
    4) Bhakta Boh Rai

  LO's report:

  3 members and 1 Nepalese summited on 12 May and were suppose to stay overnight at C3 6800m. BC members saw the summiters coming slow and had walkie-talkie contact with them at 4:45 pm 12 May (above C3) the last contact. Summiters said they would reach BC 13 May. Since no further contact from summiters and they did not return to BC on 13, Jong Sam-Kang and sirdar Ang Tshering Sherpa went to C3 on 14th to see them. No trace of anybody, no tent, only one pair of gloves found lying there. It appeared that a big avalanche swept all of them. Bodies could not be found.


expid: CHOY92104
peakid: CHOY
year: 1992
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
route2: NW Ridge (to 7300m)
nation: Germany
leaders: Eckehard Plaettner
sponsor: AAVM Cho Oyu Expedition 1992
ascent1: 100 w/Ita
bcdate: 1992-04-17
smtdate: 1992-05-08
smttime: 1445
termdate: 1992-05-28
othersmts: Climbed Palung Ri to see NW Ridge
accidents: Lutterjohann frostbitten toes
agency: Himalayan Paradise?
campsites:
  BC(17/04),CBC(24/04,5500m),ABC(25/04,5700m),C1(05/05,6300m),C2(09/05,6800m),C3(10/05,7400m),Smt(08/05)

routememo:
  NW Ridge
  1 May     - 6500m at Palung La
  Biv 8 May - 7000m on NW Ridge
  Biv 9 May - 7300m.

  Did acclimatization climbing in BC area to 6300m. Did alpine-style ascent alone starting in C1 on 5th, C2 on 6th, C3 on 7th (these camps not yet pitched -for him these were bivouac), taking tents with him as far as C3, which he left for others. 8th May left 5:45 am Nepali time and on top with 1st 2 Italians and Belgian woman and her Sherpa at 2:45 pm Nepali time and slept in C3. Returned to ABC on 9th May. Got some slight frostbite in his toes but not serious. Kinne and Wahl 11th May after making C3 tried for top but too much snow and turned back almost immediately and down to BC. Other made summit bids via normal route but reached only 6800m and 6400m on 18th May; too cold to continue.

  New route: 1st May 2 members made a camp at Palung La (6500m); 2nd May Lutterjohann, Kinne and Koblitz went up to Palung Ri to acclimatize and see NW Ridge and down to ABC; 2 members to Palung La camp. 8th May they went to bivouac 7000m on new ridge; 9th May traversed W Face of NW Ridge to bivouac at 7300m; 10th May not well enough acclimatized so were weak; ice up to 80 degrees and rock grade 3 (= not very difficult); turned back and joined teammates on normal route.

  Then decided all members would go to C3 with most going to top on normal route while ridge pair would return to their ridge route. Ridgers started up from C2 17 May and reached C3 and slept there while 4 others were a ABC. 18 May wind grew strong and now Zulegar tried to go out of camp but forced back into tent by wind (did not have all their warm clothing which had been stolen at C1 by yak drivers). 19 May weather better and tried for top via normal route. Koblitz turned back very soon, too cold. Zulegar went on but much snow and alone not able to continue beyond 7500m and both to ABC. 19th to whole team decided to abandon climb and all in ABC that night. Left ABC 26 May and 28 May left Chinese BC by car.

  Oxygen used only by 1 sick Italian from another expedition.


expid: EVER92115
peakid: EVER
year: 1992
route1: E Face-S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Chile
leaders: Rodrigo Jordan
sponsor: Qomolangma Chilean Everest Expedition 1992
ascent1: 135
approach: KTM->Tingri->Kharta Valley
bcdate: 1992-04-07
smtdate: 1992-05-15
smttime: 1030
termdate: 1992-05-17
campsites: BC(07/04,5400m),C1(20/04,6400m),C2(12/05,7300m),C3(13/05,7900m),Smt(15/05)
accidents: Delgado broken rib; 2 Sherpas slightly injured by seracs falling from right of route
achievment: 1st South Americans to top
agency: Nepal Himal
routememo:
  BC at Kangshung Glacier (1988 expedition's ABC)
  C3 at South Col.

  1988 expedition's cauliflower ridge "has completely changed." Basicly route same as 1988 but some places differed partly because of different snow conditions above 1988 C2 and other changes in mountain. Webster's wall only 3m high now instead of 20-25m in 1988 and huge crevasse at about 6800m had apparently twisted around and it was not necessary to have the Tirolean bridge traverse here of 1988. Made deposit at C2 on 6 May but slept there only on summit push from BC on 10 May by Buracchio, Delgado, Garcia-Huidobro, Jordon, Lucero, Montes to C1. 11 May rested in C1 and then Delgado gave up attempt because of rib broken earlier making route (Delgado to BC on 11th). 12 May 5 members to C2 in its first occupation. 13th 5 men went up from C3 and reached S Col. Buracchio, Lucero and Montes were to be Chilean Sherpas while Garcia-Huidobro and Jordan to be summiters. 4 members arrived at Col 11:00 pm, Montes feeling very strong now also became summiter; Lucero did not get to Col; reached 7600m at 11:00 am and then turned back tired and would be no room for him in one tent intended for two. 14th 3 summiters rested at Col while Buracchio down to C2. 14th 11:50 pm 3 men left S Col together for summit, Garcia-Huidobro breaking trail and lightly laden while Jordan and Montes carried 1 oxygen each without using it; at 8450m at about 4:00 am, where Sherpas of Spanish army caught up with them to be sure to reach summit and be there first (Sherpas told them Chilean was coming from Nepal-side team), Garcia-Huidobro and Jordan started using oxygen here - on top 15th:

    Garcia-Huidobro at 10:30 am - return C3 at 18:00
    Jordan             11:20 am - return C3 at 17:00
    Montes             13:00 am - return C3 at 18:30

  Returned to C3 when slept that night. 16th took C3 down and C2 down and slept in C1, where arrived midnight. 17th May down to BC while those who had not climbed had moved everything to 1988 BC so all to 1988 BC.

  On 14th Garcia-Huidobro and 1 other member at Col saw and got on video film three probably four, people moving up couloir above S Col and reaching S Ridge. Have no idea how high they got and did not know who they were [presumably Russians].


expid: EVER92107
peakid: EVER
year: 1992
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Todd Burleson
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Everest Expedition 1992
ascent1: 133,137
countries: S Africa, UK
bcdate: 1992-03-26
smtdate: 1992-05-12
campsites: BC(26/03,5350m),C1(28/03,6000m),C2(02/04,6500m),C3(10/04,7200m),C4(02/05,7900m),Smt(12,15/05)
accidents: 1 member pulmonary edema [Burnett?]
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Burnett and Fossett left early: Everest not for them; had gone to C2. On 14th May 3 summiters from 12th left BC and Gordon left with them - had bronchitis.

  Burleson and Athans put prism (from Brad Washburn for scientific measurements of Everest's movements) on summit on 15th May; it is an aluminium tubing which was pounded into snow (but not screwed into ice); it is not permanently stable.


expid: EVER92109
peakid: EVER
year: 1992
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Chile
leaders: Mauricio Purto
sponsor: CAI Chile Everest Expedition
ascent1: 139
bcdate: 1992-03-29
smtdate: 1992-05-15
smttime: 1200
campsites: BC(29/03,5350m),C1(09/04,6200m),C2(12/04,6500m),C3(21/04,7200m),C4(06/05,7900m),Smt(15/05)
accidents: Purto fell into crevasse alone just above C4 on descent but not hurt
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  After C3 2 weeks blizzard. After C4 on 6th May placed but not slept in, down because ran out of food at C2 and down to BC to rest. 9th May 4 members up to C2, 10th rested in C2, 11th C3, 12th 4 members and 4 Sherpas arrived at C4. 13th tried to get out of tents, 2 Sherpas felt sick and down. Then Ang Rita said now too late to go to top so another night at C4 and Galician's gave 6 bottles of oxygen and regulators (50% of our success was Galician). 14th Valle's laryngitis became serious but 15th he tried for summit anyway. At 3 pm Purto, Pratt and Ang Rita started up; at 3:30 3 members and Ang Phuri started up. Met 1 Chilean from E Face at 8500m, at S Summit met leader of E Face Chileans, and at summit met 3rd E Face member. To top Purto, Pratt & Ang Rita at noon; others from his team Valle turned back at 8500m (using oxygen and sick), Garcia at 8600m and Luchsinger at 8700m (dehydrated, not using his oxygen). Purto fell into crevasse with one leg and returned to C4 at 5 pm an hour after Ang Rita. All of this summit party spent another night at C4, Purto receiving no welcome from his teammates; down to BC on 17th.

  On Summit on 15th in this order:
  2 E Face Chileans / Americans
  Purto
  Ang Rita
  Pratt
  Spanish Army
  American Sherpa
  Ang Phuri
  3rd E Face Chilean

  Each Indian grabbed Purto for a hand hold as they went up.


expid: EVER92110
peakid: EVER
year: 1992
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Daniel Larson
sponsor: Everest 1992 Tibet, The N Ridge
countries: Canada
bcdate: 1992-03-29
smtdate: 1992-05-28
termdate: 1992-06-01
termnote: Abandoned at 8200m due to snow conditions and lack of time
accidents: Forrest with intestinal illness, left Apr 12; two Sherpas with bleeding ulcers at ABC
agency: Wilderness Experience
campsites:
  BC(29/03,5100m),C1(04/04,5490m),C2(05/04,6100m),C3(06/04,6500m),C4(23/04,7100m),C5(17/05,7870m),xxx(28/05,8200m)

routememo:
  BC at road
  C1 at East Rongbuk Glacier
  C2 at East Rongbuk Glacier
  C3 at East Rongbuk Glacier
  C4 at North Col
  C5 on North Ridge
  High point on North Face just below 1st Step.

  Weather deteriorated very badly after mid-May, but before that winds were strong. Finally 28th May Anderson & Teare left C5 at 11 pm in desperate bid to reach summit without making C6 but found snow conditions that stopped them: they were setting off slab avalanches & knee deep or more snow making progress slow. Reached 8200m that day at 6 am, having used up already half of oxygen they had with them & probably 10 hrs more climbing to top. Now time finished: yaks arriving at ABC 29-30 May. 

  High point was near traditional location of C6. Had had 2 summit bids but no higher than C5 because of fierce winds.


expid: EVER92102
peakid: EVER
year: 1992
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Rob Hall
sponsor: New Zealand International Everest Expedition
ascent1: 131 w/Neth
countries: Australia, Belgium, Hong Kong, Israel, UK, USA
bcdate: 1992-03-19
smtdate: 1992-05-12
smttime: 1030
campsites: BC(19/03,5350m),C1(06/04,6100m),C2(08/04,6600m),C3(11/04,7350m),C4(11/05,7900m),Smt(12/05)
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm (closer to SW Face than others)
  C3 on Lhotse Face 
  C4 at South Col.

  After 11th April took members up to C3 to acclimatize, then down to Pheriche to rest and recover strength and back to BC on 2nd May. Col had already been stacked, which done by Sherpas by 25th April. Lhotse Face had some snow by May which made descent easier than it would have been earlier in the season. One summit bid leaving BC 8th May to C2, 10th same to C3; all in C4 on 11th (all 14 in summit party this progress). 12th left C4 at 1:30 am, on top at 10:30 to 11 am and back to C4 at 5:30 pm. These other climbers who waited for New Zealand team to plow the trail, had to wait at bottom of Hillary Step while New Zealanders belayed all of their clients up the ropes they had fixed on the step.

  "The thing I don't like about this crowding: the most frightening time of my life." Was standing during descent at the Hillary Step on 2 small steps and with one planted ice axe while 4 ITBP summiters came up past him, roped together but to nothing else and woman kept slipping; each Indian grabbed him for a hand hold as they went up. "I could see myself falling down the SW Face tied to 4 Indians" - Gary Ball.

  Use of oxygen:

  15 Apr - Weinstein, sick with asthma and bronchitis.
  10 May - Ball and 5 clients sleeping in C3.
  11 May - all members (but no Sherpas) climbing to C4 and all members and
           Sherpas sleeping in C4.
  12 May - all members and Sherpas from C4 to summit to C4 and sleeping in C4.
  13 May - all descended from C4 without using oxygen.

  Climbers early departures:

  2 Apr  - Pasang Nuru, 23 from Phortse, fell in Icefall at 8:00 am on 1 April.
           Had not followed instructions to clip into fixed ropes while descending,
           tripped, pitched head first and hit his head on block of ice.
           Internationatal team of doctors (including a neurosurgeon) kept him alive
           until helicopter evacuated him to KTM from BC on 2nd April. He
           recovered with slight amnesia and walked into BC towards end of climb.
  15 Apr - Weinstein left because of bad asthma and bronchitis.
   4 May - Kopff pulled a rib muscle and left BC.
   6 May - Young frostnipped fingers and left BC.


expid: EVER92113
peakid: EVER
year: 1992
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Motomu Ohmyia, Valeri Khrishchati
sponsor: Japanese-Kazakh Expedition in Spring 1992
countries: Kazakhstan
approach: From Lhasa by all members; Sherpas From KTM
bcdate: 1992-04-03
smtdate: 1992-05-16
termdate: 1992-05-28
termnote: Abandoned at 8360m due to fatal accident and bad weather
accidents: Hoshi fatal fall; Ohmiya frostbite; Viktor chest problem (went to Zhangmu and returned)
agency: Himalayan Journeys
campsites:
  BC(03/04,5120m),C1(5440m),C2(6100m),C3ABC(07/04,6500m),C4(7160m),C5(7800m),C6(16/05,8360m),xxx(17-24/05,8360m)

routememo:
  C3 before ridge
  C4 near Bonington 2nd Snow cave
  C5 snow cave beyond Bonington 3rd cave.

  Kazakhs did all lead climbing, all fixing ropes and all camp pitching. Sherpas came up behind them to stock camps. Kazakhs fixed entire route from base of NE Ridge to C6. Kazakhs never touched oxygen. They climbed as separate team. Sherpas primarily supported Japanese. 4 Kazakhs pitched C6 thus in position to make summit bid and slept there 2 nights of 16th & 17th May [waiting out bad weather]; went all way down to to BC to rest before trying [again] for top; Viktor and Yuri descended US route (N Ridge-N Col) while Vladimir and Valeri went down their own NE Ridge route. By this time Japanese climbers had given up and down a bit to C4 & C5. 

  Japanese started for their own summit bid: Ohmyia, Hoshi, Kokobu and 3 Sherpas to C4 & C5; only Ohmyia & Hoshi from C5 to C6 with 2 Sherpas on 22 May. Sherpas on 22nd reached C6 and next day came down US route in snow & windstorm. Japanese never reached C6, but Ohmyia bivouacked at 8300m two nights (several [150m laterally] short of C6) while Hoshi never got to C6: Kazakhs found 100m below C6 a jumar on fixed rope and ice axe standing in snow. Kazakhs had received radio message from other Japanese that no contact with Ohmyia for 24 hrs and they must be in trouble, please help. Kazakhs had reached C4 on 23rd and when distress message came through, they immediately went up, climbing all night and all next day reaching Ohmyia at his bivouac late in afternoon of 24th. Ohmyia was exhausted and irrational, wouldn't take oxygen or water they offered him, was determined to go on to summit. Kazakhs had to get Japanese on radio to insist he obey Kazakhs; he was at 8300m below jummar & ice axe, which were on west side of NE Ridge. 4 Kazakhs practically carried him up to C6, which was close, well-supplied with oxygen and food and at junction of NE & N Ridges and thus on US (normal) route for easier descent; the 5 men got to C6 about 7 pm (Nepali time - nightfall) on 24th. On 25th all 5 down to US C4 at 3:30 pm by 2 Kazakhs, 7 pm by 2 other Kazakhs & Ohmyia; at C4 used German tent and Germans & Americans were there to help. 26th down to ABC despite heavy snowfall previous night with an American (Beazari) breaking trail and Austrian couple helping Ohmyia. US & doctors cared for him at ABC. By time he had reached N Col, Ohmyia could walk; his frostbite not so severe that good hospital probably couldn't save all fingers and toes; evacuated by yak to BC. Hoshi perhaps fell or jumped down W Face of NE Ridge; Ohmyia was not searching for him.

  Kazakhs brought oxygen supply and Japanese provided everything else. Kazakhs drove to Kazakh-Chinese border, took public buses to airport in China with connection to Chengdu & then Lhasa; same trip in reverse back to Alma Ata from BC.

  On NE Ridge Kazakhs found a tent with 2 sleeping bags, a stove, an ice hammer, a book with Chris's name in it & a diary with May 1982 entries. They took photos of body near these items; on breast of down suit was logs with outline of a mountain & 3 letters, one of which was M; they brought down book and diary.


  BC on 03 April at 5100m at the East Rongbuk Glacier
  C1 on 06 April at 5500m at the  "     "       "
  C2 on 07 April at 6000m at the  "     "       "
  C3 on 09 April at 6500m at the  "     "       "
  C4 on 15 April at 7100m at the NE Ridge
  C5 on 18 April at 7990m at the NE Ridge
  C6 on 18 May   at 8360m at the junction

  High point on 18 May at 8360m, at the junction by four Kazakh members without oxygen. Climb abandoned on 24 May due to the fatal accident and bad weather.

  Source: Muneo Nukita, Japanese mountain climber.


expid: EVER92103
peakid: EVER
year: 1992
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Deepak Kulkarni
sponsor: Indian Civilian Everest Expedition
bcdate: 1992-03-20
smtdate: 1992-05-12
termdate: 1992-05-18
termnote: Abandoned at 8750m due to message from sponsoring committee
campsites: BC(20/03,5350m),C1(25/03,6200m),C2(02/04,6350m),C3(11/04,7450m),C4(27/04,7900m),xxx(12/05,8750m)
accidents: Sah and Dorje slight frostbite
agency: Rover Treks/Arniko Travel
routememo:
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col
  High point at below Hillary Step.

  1st summit bid from C4 on 2 May 4 members [Kulkarni, Jacob, Patel] & Anit Sah. From C3 1st May left to S Col; one member and Sah reached col about 5 pm; other 3 at last radio contact between 3 to 4 pm said were coming slowly but were well below col. 6 pm weather getting bad and asked ITBP in C4 to check in this expedition's tent of other arrived but had not. By 8 pm weather very bad. 2nd May early morning ITBP man found body 30-40 yards short of col camp and Miss Yadav recognized it as Jacob. 2 members of this team gave oxygen and little water but then he totally collapsed. Near yellow band ITBP people descending found another man hanging on rope; almost no life appeared in him (this was Kulkarni). Patel had dug out small cave and bivouacked there, 20 minutes below yellow band) and came out "hail and hearty." Time to reach bodies but bad weather continued for a week. Jacob buried under stones at col and Kulkarni's rope cut, body fell into crevasse. Now sent half of team home because they disturbed by death. 

  Made summit bid: 3 members and a press reporter. From C4 on 12th Mudarris, Sah & Nepali Nima Lama at 3:30 am with ITBP team for summit. At 11:30 am were at S Summit with ITBP party. 1 pm they reported Mudarris's oxygen finished and 2 hrs more to reach the top and he quite tired and risky for him to descend alone so Puri ordered retreat and they did bring him safely to C4 where they spent that night and all of them to C1 on 13th. Thought would make another attempt on 20th with ITBP & others, but sponsoring committee sent message to abandon climb, so they did.


  Hukam Singh - 2 June 1992

  I was all the time worried about Indian civilians and they did not have good communication. Their members at C4 thought Kulkarni and Sangay had turned back to C3. When Khem Raj and Miss Yadav at 7:00 am left tent to descend and found man (Jacob) lying on snow with one hand bare but mouth making some noise and eyes open, recognized 2 ITBP people and he smiled - tried to save him (he was 15m from Dutch tent). Dutch not receptive to idea of saving him: took oxygen and glucose water but he immediately died. Khem Raj and Yadav then descended to just above Geneva Spur where found Kulkarni hanging by jumar to fixed rope, face swollen, body stiff in place exposed to wind (presumably dead).

  Jacob's body "buried" at Col with stoves on top - about six other bodies (Sherpas) lying there in sleeping bags.

  "Very ill equipped and ill prepared," but whatever help I gave was voluntary and not because they were Indian (helped rescue NZ Sherpa badly injured in fall into crevasse and brought him out of it and carried him down when other NZ Sherpas didn't want to).


expid: EVER92111
peakid: EVER
year: 1992
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Hukam Singh
sponsor: Indian ITBP Mount Everest Expedition 1992
ascent1: 130,134
bcdate: 1992-03-29
smtdate: 1992-05-10
termdate: 1992-05-24
campsites: BC(29/03,5350m),C1(01/04,6150m),C2(04/04,6650m),C3(26/04,7400m),C4(01/05,7900m),Smt(10,12/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C2 in Cwm (next to British)
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at Col.

  Some boulders came down from Lhotse, but C1 was safe; no damage to tent which stayed intact 1 April-22 May (contrary to New Zealanders report to me). C4 pitched 8 April but slept in 26th April. Set up C4 20 April (1st team to pitch this camp) but could not occupy it till 1 May because of bad weather (snow and wind) and again very bad weather 2 May when Islaivilans died. Heavy snowfall from early morning so summit attack for 2 May cancelled and those in C4 descended (none had gone above C4).

  2nd summit party to C4 on 9th May. Left col 4 am; 11:45 S Summit and contacted leader at C2; at 2:30 pm again contacted from bottom Hillary Step and at top [of step] 1 man's oxygen exhausted and his bottle left there; at 4:05 pm contacted and said there were on top (slow because one had no oxygen and other had little oxygen) and there did puja with Ganga water. Their descent seen from S Summit; reached C4 at 9 pm without headlamps and slept there (some moonlight through fog).

  3rd summit party same people as 1st party, left C4 3:30 am 12th May, when Raj turned back at north side of S Summit because oxygen regulator and mask not working). Other 5 to summit with Mohan Singh last because his oxygen finished at Hillary Step; returned to C4 at 4 pm (Lobsang) and other 4 together at 6:30 pm.

  4th Summit party: 6 members and Chhoda Tshering Sherpa (India supporting member) spent 2 nights at C3 because of changable weather, nights of 17th and 18th May, went to C4 19th; 20th blizzard and could not go up, had difficult time descending to C2.

  Sher Singh, cook (Indian) who also carried some loads, coming down last ladder in icefall 200m from bottom of icefall, slipped down tilted ladder with nylon sling around his waist. 22 May he died and body on 24th May carried from BC and cremated at Dugla.

  Paid royalty for 15 members; had several "support members" but Chhoda Tshering Sherpa, an Indian "from the border area" was only one to go above BC.

accidents:
  Papta pulmonary edema and 2 fingers bad frostbite; Bisht 3 fingers bad frostbite; Sher Singh died in the icefall


expid: KANG92101
peakid: KANG
year: 1992
route1: N Face-N Ridge
nation: Mexico
leaders: Carlos Carsolio
sponsor: Mexican Kangchenjunga Expedition
ascent1: 40th
countries: Poland
bcdate: 1992-03-11
smtdate: 1992-05-12
smttime: 1700
termdate: 1992-05-21
campsites: BC(11/03,5050m),C1(13/03,5630m),C2(30/03,6890m),C3(09/04,7350m),C4(22/04,7900m),Smt(12/05)
accidents: 2 members sick; Carlos twisted ankle; 1 death
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Pangpema
  C1 at glacier
  C2 in ice cave at North Col
  C3 in crevasse on North Ridge below the Castle
  C4 in ice cave/crevasse on North Face below last pyramid.

  1st summit push made from C4, waited 2 nights (Wanda had to bivouac on 22nd at 7800m on long traverse to C4 because she was slow & arrived on C4 on 23rd). Weather bad with small blizzard so descended (4 Mexicans & Elsa on 24th, Arek down on 23rd because he was very tired after having made the track to C4). Elsa & Alfredo got frostbite and left expedition. 2nd summit push by Carlos & Wanda only. Arek had fever & stomach trouble. Other remaining Mexican did not go above C1 now, very tired & had bladder problem since end of March. Carlos & Wanda had different climbing styles & speeds: agreed from beginning they would make separate summit attacks but help each other when together in camps. Started together from 9th May C1 because needed each other on glacier with its hidden crevasses. Carlos in C2 4 hrs earlier than Wanda: this was her best time. 10th May, after much food, drink & sleep in C2, started then different projects: Carlos planned on stop at 6 pm. Wanda had left C2 at 11 am. 10th May Carlos met Wanda who was in a crevasse making bivouac & cooking soup. Carlos left C3 site 3:15 pm with Wanda. Snow very deep above C3 & after about 2 hrs Wanda shouted to Carlos thet she was very tired & she would bivouac there at about 7450m while Carlos climbed all night through deep snow mixed with snow slabs; had planned to reach C4 at midnight but actually got there at 6:30 am on 11th May. Now weather not good with wind & snow & Carlos decided to stay full day in C4 where he had sleeping bags, little gas & food. Wanda arrived at C4 7 pm & was very unhappy that her stove had not been working, was very thirsty but did not drink very very much for fear of vomiting. Both slept deeply but briefly, woke up 12th May, cooked with last gas supply. Wanda had 1 liter of cold water when she left C4. Both left C4 at 3:30 am but Wanda immediately fell behind. Carlos fixed ropes in 2 couloirs for Wanda & for descent. Deep snow here too & progress slow. Wanda carried 20m of 5mm rope, biv sack, head lamp, extra batteries, perhaps sweats, extra gloves & goggles, 1 small camera & water. Carlos reached summit at 5 pm, stayed 50 minutes & descended in very good weather from top down. Met Wanda in bivouac at 8250m, chatted briefly (Wanda told Carlos to take his sleeping bag down from C4; she showed in her eyes her determination to reach summit). Carlos told her he would wait for her in C2. Carlos reached C4 after 10 pm & left 12 noon for C2. Left C2 16th May, arrived BC 17th. In C2 he left in tent food, gas, water in thermos, walkie-talkies & medicine kit containing oxygen (in C4 same kit).

  C4 pitched 22 April by all members except Delgado for summit bid on 23rd. Rutkiewicz biv below C4 on 23rd thunderstorm and very windy. Arkadius not well so down while Delgado arrived C4. On 23rd Carlos went up 50m to look for route above C4. Wanda, who had not seen others, went up a little and then down to C4. 8:00 am all 4 nights of 24th and 25th. 26th to C4 only because storm still continuing and Avila and Carsolio had frostbitten fingers and toes especially Avila's fingers, which made it difficult for her to descend the ropes. 27th all 4 members on BC. Many avalanches started now and storm continued. Avila de Carsolio and Alfredo Carsolio left BC 4 May and helicopter to KTM 7th in improved weather. Gasienica was in good health but no motivation (long route, very tiring, stonefall from C2 to C1, avalanche danger "so you have to run" says Elsa. From C1 to C2 "very scary." Delgado has one medical problem so not going to try for summit but Wanda and Carlos were waiting for weather to permit a 2nd attempt. Wanda and Carlos to stay still till 20 May at above BC (arrive KTM early June). Wanda cancelled plans for another 8000er this spring.

  Carlos pulled leg ligament when he tripped at 5400m in early April but resumed climb.


  Carlos - 26 May 1992

  "There is not a chance that Slu is alive; weather turned bad windy snow on 14th. On 12th evening Wanda in a kind of cave made by wind out of snow; it was good protection because it was not windy" at that time; "very cold night but clear and not windy."

  Wanda and Carlos left C4 3:30 am together; "she was going extremely slowly." 300 vertical meters by 6:30 pm when reached biv; was not carrying heavy items. Leaving C4 Wanda immediately fell behind Carlos, why "maybe because of her age, maybe because of her leg" which had injured 12 years ago. "We were very worried about her" from 1st push in late April when Elsa and Alfred got frostbite.

  "She was very good at surviving at high altitude - she did not get frostbite and had no altitude problem. She was sure she would climb it, made bivs and came back."

  Andres watching from C2 on 12th, 13th with binoculars; did not see any movement on 13th but maybe she started very early at above 8400m she would be out of sight.

  We had finished gas in C4 and she had stove malfunctioning and when she reach C4 she was very tired and without enough to drink you cannot survive. No idea what happened to her, possible she tried to descend SW Face.

  Carlos returned C4 10:00 pm, left C4 13th from C3, left C2 16th and BC 17th.

  Radio open at BC and only other one was in C2, where Carlos left it. No rescue possible. Liver problem since start of expedition and now too sick. Arek had fever and stomach problems; Carlos exhausted; no Sherpas above BC.

  "She was a safe climber - slow but safe, but on Kangchenjunga the wind changes and the snow comes and you have to be fast."

  Maybe she reached summit. She was very safe, confident and was very clear in her mind when we talked together. It was very cold and both shivering.


  Carslio - 28 May 1992

  Wanda had survived on K2 in 1986 4 nights in great difficulties at above and just below 8000m without gas for cooking at 8300m 1st night and about 7800m 3rd night. Got frostbitten then but recovered fully (again frostbite on Annapurna I in 1991 but again recovered).

  She told Carlos on Kangchenjunga she was climbing 3 times more slowly than she had on Everest in 1978 (when used oxygen).

  She was very slow on Kangchenjunga from C1 upwards. She said she must finish all 8000ers before she become even slower. "Maybe she felt it was her last chance on Kangchenjunga."

  On 2nd summit push she was not comfortable with the pain of crampons she was using now, they did not fit her boots satisfactorily. But she did not complain about crampon problems high on mountain. In biv on 12 May said her down suit not warm enough and was wearing her biv bag around her shoulders.

  She and Carlos agreed to climb separately.


  To:   Polish Mountaineering Association
  from: Carlos Carsolio/ Mexican Kangchenjunga Expedition leader

  We had good weather in the beginning, but being a small expedition we took some time to fix the ropes in the west face of the North Col. Berg Arek were extremely helpful. We had some problems with Aeores having a liver problem and I a twisted ankle. In our first summit push we had bad weather and Arek turned back being very tired because hard rock before. After 2 nights in C4 we all turned back (Alfredo, Elsa, Wanda and me). Later Alfredo and Elsa fly back with helicopter because of frostbite.
     In the end of the expedition only Wanda and me were in condition to try the summit again. But Wanda had been extremely slow and we were going to try different styles.
     We started together on the 7th May to Camp 1 (Wanda, Andres, Arek and Me). But Arek turned back with fever and stomach problem, Andres also turned back from C1 on the 8th May. We wait one day and on the 9th we climbed to C2 (Wanda was in good shape and she arrived in her best time), 4 hours after). We spent the night there and at 11 am Wanda started to C3, I started at 6 pm planning to reach summit next morning, I met Wanda in a crevasse cooking some soup (C3 was destroyed ) at 9 pm. We continued together, but moving very slowly because of very deep snow. At 11 pm Wanda decided to bivouac, I continued to C4 and reach it, very late at 6:30 am 11 May with bad weather so I decided to wait in C4 (Ice Cave), Wanda arrived in camp at 7 pm very tired and telling that her stove was not working so we melt snow and cook. But she had little diarrea, we slept few hours, drink and eat, but the gas finished.
     We started 12 May at 3:30 am, together and the weather was good but Wanda was even more slow than before. It was very deep snow and ice below the snow, so progress was very slow. I lost sight of Wanda and continued. After the pinnacles it was even more snow. I reach summit at 5 pm, on the way back I met Wanda at 8 pm sitting inside a wind hole, it was very cold and she had no sleeping bag, no stove or gas or food, she had a clear mind during the 10 minutes or so that I stayed with her. She said that she was going for the summit, next morning, we never saw her again. I wait in camp 4 until 12 pm noon next day and continued to C2 where we had food and gas and wait three days for her. I left radio, tent, sleeping bag and thermos for her but we wait until 21 May with radio open. We left BC on 21 May with very bad weather.
     It is a very sad loss for all of us and the mountaineering world.


expid: MAKA92102
peakid: MAKA
year: 1992
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: James McEachern
sponsor: 1992 American Makalu Expedition
countries: UK
bcdate: 1992-04-06
smtdate: 1992-05-17
termdate: 1992-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to bad weather and team exhaustion
campsites: BC(06/04,5350m),C1(11/04,5650m),C2(17/04,6500m),C3(13/05,7400m),xxx(17/05,7800m)
accidents: None
agency: Highland Sherpa
routememo:
  BC at normal high BC
  C2 at bottom of West Face of Makalu La
  C3 at Makalu La
  High point at North Face.

  Delay in making C3 was due to fixing rope (some of which had brought with them but some took off mountain). C3 reached by 7 members (all except Cox) on 13th May with 14th be summit day. Snowed all night of 13/14th and stopped only at 4 am. Now with a foot of a new snow at col and much more higher up (drifted into gully above col), no oxygen and no Sherpas, so definitely impossible to get to top on 14th, so all down on 14th. 15th Johnson stayed at C2; 16th to C3 alone; 10:30pm left C3 to try summit, got to British C4 (7800m) at 12:30 expecting to join them in push up from there but Brits still in their tents because wind too strong, so went to C3 same night (reached C3 1:30 on 17th), slept there, down to C2 and later on 17th down to BC. Now climbers tired & winds continued until 21st.

  Aid Burgess 30 May by phone: These 8 climbers set out with understanding they were four parties of two each, responsible only for themselves and their partner; it was not an expedition and McEachern was not really a leader. Aid and Al Burgess were a team and Brad in time decided to team up with them. No C4 made because:

  (A) Other 5 were incapable of going above C3 at Makalu La. Aid and Al told them this when took them 7-9 hours to follow trail (took only 5 hrs to break trail in snow); others including McEachern looked to Aid and Al for advice; they admitted they couldn't go higher.

  (B) Burgess's and Johnson were perfectly capable of going to top from C3 without another camp in normal conditions. Sherpas with Brithsh Makalu expedition this spring were good friends of Burgess & they said that at the rate they had been climbing, they could reach summit without any C4.


expid: KANG92102
peakid: KANG
year: 1992
route1: N Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Wolfgang Sinnwell
sponsor: AAVM Kangchenjunga Expedition 1992
bcdate: 1992-03-18
smtdate: 1992-04-22
termdate: 1992-05-01
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to Sherpas' deaths and bad weather
campsites: BC(18/03,5050m),Dep(20/03,5300m),C1(23/03,5700m),C2(08/04,6600m),xxx(22/04,7000m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Pangpema
  C1 as same as Mexicans (but this was not Scott C2)
  High point near ridge.

  Slow to make C2 because some members not feeling well and on 6th April Koch fell 10m below C2 site while fixing rope & broke his leg. C3 never established: few members really wanted to do much climbing; 2 members went up to 200m below C3 site, fixing ropes; other 2 also up towards site but to C2 only and Sherpas' death occured in C2 that night: Sherpas had been singing and praying but suddenly silent; 2 members called out to them after few minutes, no reply, member went from their tent to Sherpa's tent and found Sherpas unconscious and one no longer breathing; members tried mouth-to-mouth resuscitation and oxygen (which had in all camps) but both died of carbon monoxide poisoning and they were buried in crevasse (steep ice face too difficult to bring down and weather bad with snow falling daily and avalanching). Climb abandoned with Sherpas' deaths because of shock to 2 members and Ang Phurba. Ang Phurba had become unconscious also from carbon monoxide poisoning in sealed tent with 2 Sherpas who died 2 days later; also from stove (gas stove) burning inside closed tent; he was given oxygen and quickly revived.

accidents:
  Saumweber spinal diarrhea from bus journey prevented his climbing very much; Sinnwell sinusitis kept him from reaching BC for 10 days; Koch broken leg; Ang Phurba carbon monoxide poisoning; two Sherpa deaths from CO poisoning


expid: JANU92101
peakid: JANU
year: 1992
route1: S Ridge (French 1962 rte)
nation: Canada
leaders: Ken Legg
sponsor: Canadian Kumbhakarna Expedition
ascent1: 20th
bcdate: 1992-03-23
smtdate: 1992-04-15
termdate: 1992-04-20
agency: Lamjung
campsites:
  BC(23/03,4600m),C1(27/03,5200m),C2(30/03,5400m),C3(06/04,5975m),Biv1(10/04,6450m),Biv2(11/04,6700m),Biv3(12/04,7100m),Biv4(14/04,7350m),Smt(15/04)

routememo:
  BC  at Yamatori Glacier just west of Tharpa
  C1  at Yamatori Glacier and into side glacier eastward
  C2  at Providence Glacier
  Biv at top of Tete de Buttress
  Biv at top of Tete de Dentelle
  Biv at top of Throne Glacier
  Biv at top South Shoulder.

  Small pieces of rock fall at C1 so it was moved and became C2. On 13th April Driscoll and White made summit attempt from 7100m biv and got 400 ft from summit. Now too late and cold and so back to 7100m. 14th these 2 men to south shoulder and biv there and from this point to summit (down 9 am to 4 pm) on more difficult climb of final couloir to summit ridge than expected and slept at south shoulder and on 16th to C3. 

  2 others [Legg and Durtler] reached C6, one sick [Legg] so these two down on 14th. Before this the 4 members had climbed together from C3 starting on 10th.


expid: MAKA92101
peakid: MAKA
year: 1992
route1: W Face (to 7000m)
route2: NW side (to 8250m)
nation: UK
leaders: Nick Mason
sponsor: British Makalu Expedition
countries: Australia
bcdate: 1992-04-02
smtdate: 1992-05-14
termdate: 1992-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 8250m due to wind and lack of strength
accidents: Filzek altitude sickness but recovered; Mason also sick from altitude
agency: Mountain Travel
campsites:
  BC(02/04,5000m),ABC(08/04,5580m),C1(14/04,5900m),C2A(20/04,6480m),C2B(01/05,6700m);
  NWside-C2(09/05,6500m),C3(12/05,7400m),C4(13/05,7800m),xxx(14/05,8250m)

routememo:
  BC  at normal BC southwest of lake
  ABC opposite West Face (above normal high BC at lower end of Chago Glacier)
  C1  at top of Icefall, nearly an hour from start of West Face
  C2A at hanging glacier at lower part of face
  C2B at Chago Glacier slightly above US C2
  C3  at Makalu La
  C4  on North Face very close to NW Ridge
  High point on West Face.

  Expedition rested a day a Tumlingtar, 5 days at Tashigaon for telecasting and acclimatizing, a day at Yangri Kharka, 2 stops below Barun Pokhari BC area before making BC. Rheinberger placed C1 & C2 for W Face route, but fixed rope at bottom of face taken away by falling serac which was repaired a couple of times and then not replaced; placed C2A also. Climbed above C2A to 7000m 60 degrees on 1 May by Reinberger and Taylor and slept with 2 Sherpas at C2A. On 2nd May spindrift came roaring down face down to ABC. Decided summit bid nil and dangerous rock fall so 3-4 May to abandon face. Discussed alternative of W Pillar but finally decided to go for normal route for which permit received on 7th May (for $8000 additional peak fee after some official said $18,000 and leader disqualified for climbing in Nepal for 5 yrs in mistaken belief that leader had actually gone up normal route). 

  Diplock and Rheinberger chosen for 1st summit, Taylor and Welch 2nd, Flannery, Hudson and Filzek 3rd (but Filzek dropped out). Tents for C2 pitched on 8th and occupied by Rheinberger and Diplock plus 8 Sherpas on 9th, rested there on 10th. 11th May all set out to turn back at c6900m and back to C2 having dropped loads at 6900m. 12th May all got to C3. 13th 6 Sherpas and 2 members set out to place C4 at 7800m and slept there by Ang Jangbu, Dawa Nuru, Rheinberger and Diplock. Intended to leave for summit push at midnight but had started snowing in early evening and kept on snowing; 4:30 am on 14th cleared and left C4 5 am; got to narrow couloir in snow; climbed up this for 6 hrs with Sherpa slightly ahead and at 3 pm emerged at top of it at 8250m, quite weary. Now started snowing, decided to turn back, thinking were only at 8050m and figured 5-6 hrs more climbing well into dark. Now had problem of descending couloir in soft snow which did with some difficulty. 4 men reached C4 about 6:30-6:45pm. 2 Sherpas immediately quickly to C3 and down to ABC late next afternoon.

  Welch, Taylor and 2 Sherpas to C4 16th May. Bad weather forecast, tent poles already broken, and wind by midnight prevented their moving out. Left C4 17th May and reached C2.

  Hudson and Flannery to C3 17th May where Sherpas were. 18th May down to C2 because of winds & C4 probably blown away.


  Adrian Burgess - 30 May 1992

  Britain Makalu

  "Was well organized - they just didn't have the depth of experience," but "weren't Kamikazi;" admitted West Face too much for them and got off it; no one hurt.

  ME Education and BMC refused to endorse it, Bonington and Scott critized it, but people have to climb in their own style and at their own level of experience. These people have learned a lot.


expid: EVER92104
peakid: EVER
year: 1992
route1: S Pillar-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Francisco Soria
sponsor: Everest 1992 Civilian-Military Expedition
ascent1: 138
bcdate: 1992-03-21
smtdate: 1992-05-15
smttime: 1150
campsites: BC(21/03,5350m),C1(03/04,6100m),C2(15/04,6350m),C3(22/04,7400m),C4(02/05,8050m),Smt(15/05)
accidents: Sherpa fell in icefall and injured knee
agency: Yangrima
routememo:
  C2 before others C2 (more protected)
  C3 on kidney rock right side of pillar lower spot
  C4 midway up Lambert couloir, left side of big serac which divides normal 
     route, very close to rock wall of South Pillar.

  "We are very happy on our route, only us, no problems." Had difficulty making C3: 1st problem was very wide crevasse and stonefall (which slightly injured 3 members with 2 smashed helmets) and 2nd was where to put it and had to make it on ice close to stone, very small place. Took much time to fix ropes to it and to make platforms. 

  1st summit [Exposito, Hernandez, Perez Grueso, Trabdo, Vegue, Dorje Pemba Jr.] attempt without oxygen on 11th May in middle of storm which aborted attempt below C4; turned back at 7900m. 

  2nd attempt with oxygen on 18th May successful: left C4 at 2:30 am in bad weather (snowing and windy and very cold), on top 11:50 am Gan, Juez, Portilla and 2 Sherpas at 12:15. Left top 1 pm in good weather following; returned to C4 5 pm in strong wind by Gan and Juez while other 3 summiters to C2 at 6:30 pm exhausted. 

  3rd summit attempt on 17th planned but could not go up from C4 that day; strong wind broke tents and down to C2; this attempt by 5 members and 2 Sherpas, same people who had made 1st attempt. 18th waited to see if weather improving, but getting worse, icefall getting dangerous and climb finished.

  This was the only expedition this spring to climb pillar-corridor.


expid: EVER92105
peakid: EVER
year: 1992
route1: SW Face (to 7250m)
route2: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USSR
leaders: Viacheslav Volkov
sponsor: Everest 1992
ascent2: 132,135
bcdate: 1992-03-23
smtdate: 1992-05-12
smttime: 1145
campsites: BC(23/03,5360m),C1(28/03,6100m),C2(29/03,6600m),C3(11/04,7500m),C4(21/04,7900m),Smt(12,14/05)
accidents: Smirnov hurt by falling stone; 3 slight frostbite
agency: Mustang
routememo:
  Made some attempt to climb to climb SW Face but snow situation very dangerous & some members hit by stone (one member's helmet broken & another shoulder hurt slighty & 2 fingers broken & had to stop climbing). Reached 7200m 2 members 6th April. Had already decided that face not safe and would have to change route and had moved C2, but third face to be able to say they had done so. Asked permission to change route to col route; permission refused because too many other teams already on that route, but climbed it anyway. 12th May left C4 4 am, reached top 11:45 and returned C4 2:30 pm; 2 members stayed there other 2 to C3 because Volkov's fingers slightly frostbitten. 14th May another 4 to top; left C4 4 am, on top 1 pm & C4 4 pm with 2 members desending to C2 while other two very tired & stayed at C4 where had "very little tent"; no other summit bids.


  Hukum Singh - 2 June 1992

  The way US and NZ told Russians to wait was "very rude." These foreigners had no authority to tell them to stall off South Col route. Looked at SW Face from C2 while Singh was there, saw there was no snow on face and they could not climb it, found it extremely hazardous. Said they had tried to climb it. After 15 April did not try it (15th Singh to C2). No Indian saw them try SW Face.

  Main cause of friction with New Zealand, US and Dutch was difference in attitude between commercial teams and Russian contemptuousness of commericial climbers.

  They lived in ITBP tent at C4 by agreement and used of ITBP similarly by mutual agreement.


  Kefford - 1 June 1992

  Russians kept renegging on all their agreements. Did maintenance of Icefall only 2 days and did not wait as they agreed for NZ and US to go ahead; agreed with their intrepreter present at BC meeting.

  Russians never went onto SW Face. British saw no ladders to cross bergschrund, which would have been seen by British; saw no people on face anywhere at all except Spanish army, whom saw to C3 from Cwm.


  Burleson and Athans - 29 May 1992

  Athans and Burleson confident 4 Russians went to top on 14th. Athans saw them just below South Summit going up. 

  Russians never set foot on face. Athans never saw any activity near face except Spanish army who were far away, to right of Pillar and others could not confuse them for everyone in center of face. Athans thinks that Jan Robertson would not necessarily know about a Russian with broken fingers.

  Russians agreed to everything but didn't act on agreements. Russian did fix a considerable amount of rope on Lhotse Face tied into old ropes. Then Ball and Athans went up later putting in anchors and fixing rope more securely. Total fixed on face was 800m and Russians put in at least 500m. Fixed their own rope and Athans put in ice screws, etc.

  Not aware of Russians not taking their turn maintaining Icefall.

  Russians did not have understanding with ITBP and Galicians.

  Russian tried to enter Dutch C3, was refused entry and went to Americans, who took him in. He had no sleeping bag or down jacket for the night, which Americans lent him - was very windy. Naar's altitude was no responsibility for other teams' personnel.

  Americans angry at Russians because they were unpredictable and hard to plan around them. Furthermore they were refused permission by Tourism after US and NZ leadership wrote letters of protest because they didn't do what it was understood they'd agreed to, especially waiting as agreed until others made progress upwards, coming along behind them; could have been a language problem.

  Burleson calls them liars because they agreed several times to wait and then immediately broke these agreements.


expid: EVER92106
peakid: EVER
year: 1992
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Ronald Naar
sponsor: Everest 1992
ascent1: 130 w/NZ
bcdate: 1992-03-23
smtdate: 1992-05-12
smttime: 1130
campsites: BC(23/03,5350m),C1(03/04,6150m),C2(05/04,6400m),C3(09/04,7200m),C4(01/05,7850m),Smt(12/05)
accidents: 1 member slight frostbite; nothing else
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  C1 slightly beyond top of Icefall and others C1
  C4 at lower slope of South Col.

  No problem of crowding at BC and were weekly meetings regarding garbage. Very good cooperation amongst all expeditions except Russians who decided to change route and who went with others tents and helped themselves to food. At C3 in a storm, Russian asked to come into Dutch C3 saying he couldn't find his camp but he had no C3 (it hadn't been pitched); Dutch didn't let him in and don't know what became of him. 

  BC pitched 23rd March by advance team; whole expedition in BC 2nd April. 3rd May 1st summit bid reached 8300m and dropped oxygen which was used on 12th May; this by 3 members [Naar, Oefner, Van der Meulen] and 1 got slightly frostbitten three fingers and left expedition [Van der Meulen]. 

  10th May 2nd bid by 2 members [only Wesker, Nima Dorje, Nima Gombu] but got only 10m above C4; inexperienced, didn't use oxygen right, panicky because of altitude and down to BC same day. 

  9th May 2 members [Naar, Oefner]  with 2 Sherpas left BC to C2; 10th in C3, 11th C4, the last to leave BC and to arrive at C4 where at least 40 people were camped in plenty of space (Russians probably slept in Spanish tent). On 12th to top going between New Zealand team member moving slowly and fixing themselves ropes fixed at Hillary Step: Dutch jumped the queue formed to scale step. Left C4 at 1 am on 12th reached S Summit at 9:30 am and main summit at 11:30 am Naar first, then Dawa, Nima and lastly Oefner; returned to C4 at 5 pm, slept there and down to C2 on 13th & BC on 14th. 

  No clients (who had paid $18,000) got to top and they left disappointed.

  Early departures:
  1 May - Zoeteman's filming contract ended 30th April.
  8 May - Achterbosch demoralized by Indians in front of his tent. Ritzen had had enough (had reached 6950m). Zuidhoff was sick & demoralized. Timmermans left with Zuidhoff, her boyfriend. Van der Meulen had had enough.

  Use of oxygen:
  Used by all who went to C4: summit team of 12 May; Dutch member used it in 10th May sleeping in C3, on 11th climbing to C4 and sleeping there; Sherpas used it sleeping in C4; all four on 12th used it from C4 to summit and back to C4 and sleeping in C4.


  Ronald Naar, Dutch Everest expedition leader - 20 May 1992

  This was first successful Dutch Everest Expedition. Vos's claim to have been seen by his "Sherpa" from South Summit while Vos was on main summit (Aut 1984) could not be true because, as Naar saw for himself, main summit cannot be seen from S Summit. Ganesh Gurung told Naar in 1986 & in 1988 that he saw Vos reach bottom of Hillary Step and turn back there without going higher.


expid: EVER92116
peakid: EVER
year: 1992
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Denis Chatrefou
sponsor: Ulife 1992 to Everest
bcdate: 1992-04-15
smtdate: 1992-05-14
termdate: 1992-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to bad weather and need to evacuate sick member
campsites: BC(15/04,5350m),C1(18/04,6100m),C2(21/04,6400m),C3(27/04,7400m),C4(14/05,7900m),xxx(18/05,7900m)
accidents: Lovato serious pulmonary edema; nothing else
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  C2 in Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  High point at South Col.

  Last expedition to arrive at BC: had contract with the New Zealands that icefall route would be made for them & wanted to center expedition on summit bid on 15th May - were 2 weeks too late. Had trouble with Sherpas not very strong, sirdar left to buy food but went home actually (25th April & returned 1st May) getting loads to col. C3 tent destroyed by wind & snow 1st May. C4 pitched on 12th May but no food at first; first occupied by 1 member on 15th May to C2. 16th May much snow on mountain & only 17th up from C2 but only 2 members reached C4, other 3 stopped at C3. 18th May 2 members reached C4 while 1 went down. 19th May windy & cold so stayed in tent. 20th May decide to go down because too windy & cold, 2 had been at col several night & no oxygen so go down to C2. During night 20/21 May Lovato developed pulmonary edema, at 7 am started to evacuate him: asked British to provide oxygen, 2 members & 2 Sherpas manpower; 1 member came from BC to help French & British - in icefall he was close to death & arrived BC only 9 pm & 21 May Lovato rested in British BC (2 members still in BC resting). 22 May asked for helicopter on 22 May; his edema gone but some infection; 23rd bad weather so evacuated to KTM on 24th. 1 member planned up to make summit bid (BC 11 May, arrived C2 20th) but aborted this plan when Lovato became ill.


  Kefford - 1 June 92

  Not only Russians climbed on other expedition's backs. Only people who came truely equipped to climb Everest was Spanish army and British. Adverse comments about siege type expeditions: Frenchman would have died if British hadn't provided 3 expensive oxygen bottles, medicines, stretcher and manpower to get him through Icefall and radio communication to BC. French leader and member only struck their heads out of tents while British extracted him from his a lot of people were topping over their egos.


expid: EVER92108
peakid: EVER
year: 1992
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Albino Quinteiro
sponsor: Galicia Himalaya Expedition 8000
bcdate: 1992-03-27
smtdate: 1992-05-13
termdate: 1992-05-18
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to winds and lack of strength
campsites: BC(27/03,5350m),C1(03/04,6100m),C2(08/04,6450m),C3(17/04,7200m),C4(28/04,7900m),xxx(13/05,8000m)
accidents: Murua frostbite fingers (may lose tips)
agency: Pabil Treks
routememo:
  C2 at top of Icefall
  C4 at South Col (placed but slept in only on 12 May).

  Arrived at C4 for summit bid 12 May. 3 members stayed 2 nights but winds discouraged them from making progress. 13th May went only 100m up in 45 minutes & back to C4 thought to leave again at 11 pm but 9:30 pm snow began falling and then winds came up so stayed in C4 that night and went down next day; met 2 others below C4 and they turned around and all 5 descended to C2. Now attempt abandoned: no strength to mount another attack. These in C4 went down because feared altitude sickness if stayed 2 more nights so high.

  Kitchen boy Subba Singh Tamang died of heart attack at BC 11th May. Never went above BC (was 43 years old). Ministry of Tourism said he came from Sigadi, Thulo Parisad village developement committee, Kavre district.

  South Col reached:
    26 Apr by Irola and Murua
    28 Apr by Nima, Kunga and Pasang Sherpa
    12 May by Criado, A. Solla and L. Solla


expid: EVER92112
peakid: EVER
year: 1992
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Jonathan Pratt
sponsor: Officially on Chilean permit
ascent1: 139 w/Chile
countries: Czechoslovakia, USSR
bcdate: 1992-04-02
smtdate: 1992-05-15
smttime: 1200
campsites: BC(02/04,5350m),C1(05/04,6100m),C2(15/04,6400m),C3(20/04,7500m),C4(12/05,7900m),Smt(15/05)
accidents: None except Sterbova extreme exhaustion
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  Pratt & Ang Phurba went to C3 on 20th & 2 members slept there one night & down to C2 & BC on 22nd & Sterbova never went up again. 3 May Pratt & Ang Phurba went up but Sterbova decided not to that day; same thing again 12th May & when she again decided not to go up; reaching C3 she had had great difficulty reaching camp at all (other 2 went to C2 to C3 in 4-1/2 hrs while she took 11 hrs & perhaps would have not managed the last 50-100m if Pratt had not gone down the ropes to meet her; she wasn't strong enough, not fit enough. She left BC with Pratt. 12th May Pratt & Ang Phurba reached S Col; Ang Phurba immediately descended to C2 & never slept above C2. 15th May Pratt left C4 with Purto & Ang Rita at 2 am & together on top at 12 noon & back to C4. Pratt on 16th C4 to BC.

  Pratt & Sterbova were a climbing pair until Sterbova failed to muster strength to go up from BC in May.

  Smid last August injured his leg in parachute accident and had no confidence he could climb at all; every advance in ascents was a wonder to him. He arrived late at BC (23 April) after spending time at Gorak Shep, accimatizing on Pumori slopes and staying away from (avoiding) the traffic and garbage of BC from big commercial expeditions ("business is not mountaineering").

  Smid and Shinov moves:

  Smid - 23/4 - arrived BC
         26/4 - to C2 with Shinov, then down to BC
          1/5 - to C3
          3/5 - attempted to reach C3 but turned back very tired at 7100m
          4/5 - BC
          9/5 - C2
         11/5 - C3
         12/5 - to S Col and down to C3 same day
         13/5 - C2
         15/5 - climbed up British to West Shoulder to see N Face and to C2
         16/5 - BC
         19/5 - left BC - spent few days in Namche
         24/5 - arrived Kathmandu ex-Lukla

  Shinov - 18/4 - arrived BC
           22/4 - C2
           24/4 - BC and Gorak Shep
           25/4 - BC
           26/4 - C2
           27/4 - tried to reach C3 - back to C2
           28/4 - C3
           29/4 - tried to reach South Col turned back at 7800m very tired
                  and down to C2
           30/4 - BC
           31/4 to 11/5 - in BC or lower (3 days at Pheriche)
           12/5 - BC to C3
           13/5 - C2 again slightly sick
           14/5 - BC
           18/5 - left BC -> 25/5 KTM via Jiri


expid: EVER92114
peakid: EVER
year: 1992
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Cesar Perez de Tudela
sponsor: Complutense University Everest Expedition
countries: USA
bcdate: 1992-04-04
smtdate: 1992-05-09
termdate: 1992-05-11
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to lack of strength and time
campsites: BC(04/04,5350m),C1(11/04,6100m),C2(27/04,6400m),C3(04/05,7400m),xxx(09/05,7900m)
accidents: Perez heart attack Apr 19 only
agency: Trans Himalayan Trekking (THT)
routememo:
  C3 at Lhotse Face 
  High point at South Col.

  Did not attempt South Pillar although that was their assigned route. Spanish Army already there and no space at C3 for other expedition. Not good collaboration with Army who didn't want other Spaniards to go ahead of them. 

  This team only 4 climbers after leader left and now decided Gonzalez to be summiter. Gonzalez and Bruno Perez a team to put Gonzalez on top and Bruno see how high he could go without oxygen while Gonzalez and 2 Sherpas with oxygen, while other 2 in support. But never reached C4, which Sherpa did reach on 7th May and left equipment there and saw again 9th May. 10th May 2 members towards C3 alone and at 7000m 1 exhausted and had to descend while other member went to C3 and then decided to descend, really scared to go alone to C4 (Sherpa was to go from C2 to C4 on 11th).


expid: EVER92117
peakid: EVER
year: 1992
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Sigi Hupfauer
sponsor: DAV Summit Club Qomolongna Expedition
countries: Austria, Italy, Netherlands, Switzerland
bcdate: 1992-04-25
smtdate: 1992-05-10
termdate: 1992-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(25/04),ABC(02/05,6400m),C2(06/05,6950m),C3(13/05,7800m),xxx(24/05,7800m)
accidents: Tenzing (Beding) knee injured in avalanche
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC  at road
  ABC at end of East Rongbuk
  C2  at North Col
  C3  on North Face (slept in only on 24 May by 2 members).

  Kammerlander and Joos at C3 site on 10th. C3 pitched on 13th May by Nawang and Dorje Sherpas but not slept in until 24th May by Mr and Mrs Hoelzl and 25th to C2. Hupfauer reached C3 twice.

  Tibetans strong but didn't want to work. On 17th May Tibetans and Sherpa caught in avalanche between 6400m and 7000m which injured 4 men, especially 1 Sherpa's knee injured and he was sent to Kathmandu hospital. After this Tibetans did nothing and only 2 Sherpas climbed again. 

  On 24th 2 Sherpas made steps for Hoelzls, who took from 8 am to 6 pm to climb to C3. 25th snowstorm and Kazakhs and Japanese coming down, so Hoelzls down too.


expid: EVER92101
peakid: EVER
year: 1992
route1: W Cwm-W Ridge-N Face (Hornbein Couloir)
nation: UK
leaders: Mike Kefford
sponsor: British Services Everest Expedition 1992
countries: Nepal
bcdate: 1992-03-06
smtdate: 1992-05-18
termdate: 1992-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 8500m due to bad weather, wind and snow
accidents: James Morning to KTM because of allergic reaction to medicine; 4 slight frostbite
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
campsites:
  BC(06/03,5330m),C1(26/03,5910m),C2(02/04,6400m),C3(11/04,6900m),C4(21/04,7640m),C5(11/05,8000m),xxx(18/05,8500m)

routememo:
  C2 in Westerm Cwm
  C3 on SW Face
  C4 on West Shoulder
  C5 at bottom of Hornbein.

  One of our problems was spindrift being blown around (and almost suffocating us) when almost no wind on SW Face and Cwm was still. This expedition was first to arrive at BC, put in icefall route and handed over to others to mountain. Had also sugggested where tracks between tents should be, where toilets should be after Galicians (Quinteiro) and Dutch threw stones at each other for walking through their camps. After New Zealand's Sherpas accident, got all expedition's doctors together where scratches were, etc. On SW Face went almost straight up to shoulder. 1st real technical problems were icefall and steep ice section between C2 and C3; then Hornbein Couloir top, just when you think you are through this difficulties, there is steep rock. On 18th May Bell and Hughes got to site of C6 and stashed their tent and oxygen bottles in such strong wind they had to descend and this point never reached again. Had reached C5 on 26th April but 27th started to snow and not till 6th May were able to get back to C5 because of snow conditions and wind and to rest lower camps. Started work on Couloir on 12th. Were always going to be a week behind the other because of length of route during other's success period 12-15th May, weather actually kept good only in mornings and there after 15th not even then. 

  Hughes, Bell, Barnes and Batson spent 4 days at C5 with Hughes and Bell going to C6 site [to stash oxygen] on 19th and to go for top on 20th. Assisting on carrying loads to C6 site were Babu Tshering, Ang Temba, Phinzo (Thulo Phinzo) and another Phinzo (Sano Phinzo).

  Had bartered gear for more rope to fix from other teams. Fixed entire route from 6700m to 8500m. 70 days on mountain, Icefall to Icefall.

  Williams left BC 17 May since father-in-law had died.


expid: DHA192304
peakid: DHA1
year: 1992
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Ichita Ono
sponsor: Iwate Alpine Climbing Club Dhaulagiri I Expedition
bcdate: 1992-09-18
smtdate: 1992-10-03
termdate: 1992-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to bad weather and Ono not well
campsites: BC(18/09,4700m),C1(27/09,5700m),C2(28/09,6400m),xxx(03/10,7000m)
accidents: Ono sick (chest & old foot injured)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C2 on NE Ridge
  High point on NE Ridge.

  C3 should be at 7000m but made route only to 7000m where Ono not well in chest and down to C1 for rest and that night snowfall began. Ono still not well and down to BC 4th. Now weather not good, and Nepalis think summit attack not possible.


expid: DHA192301
peakid: DHA1
year: 1992
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Jorge Egocheaga
sponsor: Asturian Dhaulagiri Expedition
bcdate: 1992-08-30
smtdate: 1992-10-03
termdate: 1992-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to wind
campsites: BC(30/08,4700m),C1(11/09,5100m),C2(20/09,5800m),C3(21/09,6600m),C4(24/09,7300m),xxx(03/10,8000m)
accidents: Iragorri badly frostbitten toes and part of both feet
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C2 at North Col
  C4 on NE Ridge.

  Summit attack from C4 on 25th Sept & reached 7600m and strong winds drove them back to BC in the night. 3 days in BC. 1 Oct again in C4 and again strong wind, which prevented leaving camp to go higher. 2 Oct at midnight tried for top and at 8000m storm came; had reached 8000m. 4th Oct to C1. Storm had brought much snow - now very tired.


expid: DHA192302
peakid: DHA1
year: 1992
route1: NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Daniel Blanchi
sponsor: La Rochelle Climbers in Himalaya - to Dhaulagiri I
bcdate: 1992-09-07
smtdate: 1992-09-28
termdate: 1992-10-04
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to exhaustion, bad weather, lack of strength and time
campsites: BC(07/09,4600m),C1(12/09,5100m),C2(18/09,5700m),C3(20/09,6600m),C4(27/09,7000m),xxx(01/10,7500m)
accidents: None
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Bad weather: much snowfall and were first to C1 and C2 so had to make track. C2 made down because Blanchi and 2 Sherpas only made it and Sherpas tired. Only 2 members in good form while others suffering somewhat from altitude and tired. 28th Blanchi and 1 Sherpa at high point. 1 Oct Beguin and Martin reached same height but in both cases climbers too tired to continue higher. Weather now becoming windy and colder and expedition had no more time: had to leave BC 4th Oct.


expid: DHA192303
peakid: DHA1
year: 1992
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Jon Lazkano
sponsor: Pol-Pol Bergara Dhaulagiri Expedition to Dhaulagiri I
approach: Myagdi Khola (& because of deep snow in eastern passes)
bcdate: 1992-09-15
smtdate: 1992-10-03
termdate: 1992-10-16
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due bad weather, porters ordered for 15th at BC and no strength
campsites: BC(15/09,4700m),C1(20/09,5100m),C2(01/10,5800m),C3(03/10,6600m),xxx(03,11/10,6600m)
accidents: Much sickness at begining; nothing else
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 above icefall, which was in very bad condition
  C2 at North Col
  C3 at beginning of NE Ridge on wide slope
  High point at C3.

  All arrived BC in rain, including BC staff and porters sick with bronchitis, etc. 4-5 days later a few climbers up to C1 to put supplies, then down and up for one night but not in good condition and down. 

  De Pablo only member who made serious attempt to climb mountain: 1st time in early Oct slept in C1, up to C2, down and up again. 3rd Oct from C2 to C3, down to C2 that night. 4th snowfall began and 5th down to BC helping other Spanish expedition's 2 members to descend, one with bad frostbite. 10th Oct De Pablo from BC to C2, 11th C3, 12th stayed in C3 and 13th afternoon big storm started and down to C2. 14th to BC in deep snow and avalanches every where. Porters had arrived at BC on 15th evening by prior arrangement, so 16th left BC. 

  1 member went to C2 only; not mentally prepared for the summit attempt on Dhaulagiri. Lazkano not interested in climb because tired from too much climbing elsewhere earlier in the year. Guenaga not really a climber but reached C2. When arrived at BC, other Spanish had fixed rope in icefall. De Pablo did not climb with members of other expedition.


expid: DHA192305
peakid: DHA1
year: 1992
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Dino Favretto
sponsor: Dhaulagiri Expedition Intersectional CAI Opitengium 1992
bcdate: 1992-09-20
smtdate: 1992-10-09
termdate: 1992-10-26
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to snow
campsites: BC(20/09,4700m),C1(29/09,5100m),C2(03/10,5800m),C3(09/10,6800m),xxx(17/10,6800m)
accidents: None
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  After C3 established very heavy snowfall (at BC 60 cm deep) and avalanche danger and snow deep on route (7 hrs to descend C3 to C2 because so deep). 3 times now snowfall for 2 days, 2-3 days not, then again falling; now hard crust on powder snow.


expid: TUKU92302
peakid: TUKU
year: 1992
route1: NW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Didier Delahaye
sponsor: French Tukuche Expedition
approach: Myagdi Khola->French Pass
bcdate: 1992-10-23
smtdate: 1992-10-29
termdate: 1992-10-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6839m due to wind & slab avalanche danger
campsites: BC(23/10,5100m),C1(25/10,5800m),C2(28/10,6300m),xxx(29/10,6839m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC between Pt 5087m on Dhaulagiri map 2 ridge to east of it.
  C1 on ridge that ends just east of Pt 5087m
  C2 on NE Ridge before East Ridge of Pt 6839m.

  After occupied C1, on 26th went on to deposit loads at C2 site but did not pitch tent because winds made that impossible and was snowing so down to BC. 28th summit party BC to C2 directly that day. On 29th to summit 6839m on map. Did not go to main summit because too far, too dangerous from wind and slab avalanche possibility; returned to BC same day. Left BC 30 Oct to join a group that had gone to Mustang; met in Jomsom.

accidents:
  Querlier altitude sickness during climb to C1; Barbier altitude sickness on return trek from BC (had been to C2)


expid: TUKU92301
peakid: TUKU
year: 1992
route1: NW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Isobel Inglis
sponsor: British Tukuche Expedition
approach: Myagdi Khola->French Pass
bcdate: 1992-10-22
smtdate: 1992-10-28
termdate: 1992-10-29
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to general route difficulties and member illnesses
campsites: BC(22/10,5000m),C1(25/10,5600m),xxx(28/10,5900m)
accidents: Much sickness
agency: Mountain Adventure
routememo:
  BC between Pt 5087m on Dhaulagiri map and start.

  "Psyched out" by death of German trekker at Dhaulagiri BC and and body left by group for others to dispose of; this made British Tukuche afraid of illness amongst themselves (Germans were elderly group and death might have been caused by stroke); all came down with intestinal problems at Dhaulagiri BC. Dodd and Glanville left sick but Glanville returned to climb later; Rennie on 25th exhausted and cold from carrying heavy load to C1. Then winds came and snowfall made progress difficult. 26th Carter came down from C1 also exhausted and had to be carried down; also suffering from altitude sickness. 27th Inglis alone to C1 and 28th to perhaps 6000m, then realized if got in to trouble there was no one to help her and wouldn't go to top alone so back to C1, when Glanville joined her. But Inglis not confident how fully recovered she was, so they packed up C1 and descended to BC same day. "There were just so many things going wrong I didn't want anything else to go wrong."


expid: PUTH92301
peakid: PUTH
year: 1992
route1: S Ridge from E
nation: UK
leaders: Andrew Kerr
sponsor: Summits Scottish-Swiss Putha Hiunchuli Expedition
approach: By road->Baglung->Kaphe Khola
bcdate: 1992-10-05
smtdate: 1992-10-17
termdate: 1992-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7050m due to bad conditions on wall and no rope taken which really needed here
campsites: BC(05/10,4100m),ABC(07/10,5200m),C1(14/10,6200m),C2(16/10,6600m),xxx(17/10,7050m)
accidents: Bernadette altitude problem (lungs), had to descend to stay at BC
agency: Atlas
routememo:
  On 6th Oct did recce of possible line up snow slope of south side of East Ridge but very dangerous seracs and falling stones in possible route through seracs, so decided to do Japanese route on S(SW) Ridge from east and occupied ABC on 7th, the next day. Gary and Andrew then up to C1, where left loads before down to ABC, 9th more loads to C1 and then the snow came after one rest day. 14th C1 occupied by Andrew, Gary and Moti Lal Gurung. 15th recce to col on S Ridge of Dome amongst seracs; here it became technical. 16th same trio up from C1 on to Ridge and made C2. 17th summit bid but above C2 a snow ice wall so should have taken gear for one more camp but had decided in C2 would go for top that day. Climbed over wall and found snow dome above that; climbed over dome and now at rock step on final ridge at 4:00 pm. Now mist and clouds and down in dark to C2. Now needed rope to go up wall and to make another camp; besides were running out of gas and time.


expid: SITA92301
peakid: SITA
year: 1992
route1: Central S Ridge-E Ridge from S
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Pierre Laurent
sponsor: Sita Chuchura Expedition
ascent1: 2nd
approach: Myagdi Khola
bcdate: 1992-10-01
smtdate: 1992-10-08
smttime: 1345
termdate: 1992-10-13
campsites: BC(01/10,4700m),C1(04/10,5500m),C2(06/10,6000m),C3(07/10,6100m),Smt(08/10)
accidents: Hameau halucinated because altitude (6000m) Oct 7
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Dhaula I BC
  C1 on eastern end of Sita Chuchura's 3 South Ridges
  C2 on dome where ridge turns west 
  C3 on central South Ridge.

  From C2 descended 200m to glacier between eastern and central South Ridge, then on to Central Ridge where pitched C3 and followed Central Ridge, then on to central ridge N to beginning of E Ridge, which (E Ridge) involved technical climbing on 55% of hard snow. Only one summit bid because 2nd summit team in C2 ran out of gas, spent a day without drinking anything and therefore not in good condition. Then 2 days of snowfall kept team in BC 2 days extra.

  Hameau couldn't find C2 in night, had hallucinations, in morning succeeded to find C1.


expid: APIM92301
peakid: APIM
year: 1992
route1: S(E) Face
nation: UK
leaders: Robert Brown
sponsor: TWTCC Expedition to W Nepal
approach: Chamlia Khola in 8 days from Bartoli
bcdate: 1992-09-23
smtdate: 1992-10-10
termdate: 1992-10-16
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to snowfall and lack of time
campsites: BC(23/09,4200m),ABC(25/09,5000m),C1(27/09,5300m),C2(03/10,5800m),xxx(10/10,6000m)
accidents: All were plagued by flu
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  BC  south of summit
  ABC at foot of face directly below East Col at 6100m
  C1  on South Face
  C2  on South Face.

  Mountain has way wide flat South Face and low on this is a buttress and route lay up this face to col on East Ridge. When established C2 had bad weather, went down, up again and tried alpine-style ascent from C2 on 10th Oct, but 2 ft snow fell in storm that came up and descended to C1 that evening and to BC on 11th. Lots and lots of snow. Now no more time: porters expected on 15th.

  Barchula airfield good for expeditions: porters and food available there (and roads in autumn very bad).


expid: CHOY91313
peakid: CHOY
year: 1991
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: S Korea
leaders: Oh In-Hwan
approach: From Beijing & Lhasa
smtdate: 1991-10-23
termdate: 1991-11-06
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to strong winds
othersmts: Xixabangma
campsites: BC(earlyOct,4900m),C3(7200m),xxx(23/10,8100m)
accidents: None
agency: Unknown
routememo:
  BC at road
  C2 as same as other Koreans (route and camps same)
  High point at just above upper rock band.

  Tried twice for top: 1st bid 19th Heo to 7500m & Kim to 8000m; 23rd together to 8100m. Down to BC for rest and 29th up to ABC after rest at Zhangmu. Winds too strong still so left BC 6th Nov after staying in ABC only - then to Xixabangma.

  4 climbing members plus 1 leader; no Sherpas.


expid: ANN192302
peakid: ANN1
year: 1992
route1: S Face (Bonington rte)
route2: Eastern end of S Face (to 5500m)
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Tone Skarja
sponsor: Slovenian Annapurna Expedition
countries: Croatia
bcdate: 1992-09-29
smtdate: 1992-10-21
termdate: 1992-10-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to snowfall
campsites: BC(29/09,4500m),C1(30/09,4800m),C2(04/10,5800m),C3(18/10,6600m),xxx(21/10,6700m)
accidents: Nothing serious but Bence and Supin left BC sick (kidney and intestinal problems)
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC on east side Annapurna Glacier below Tent Peak
  C1 between Bonington's I and II
  C2 on South Face's cauliflower ridge Bonington route.

  2 weeks between C2 and C3; heavy snowfall at C2, at BC rain for more than 48 hrs without stop; progress now very slow on cauliflower ridge after snowfall; 30m/per day only. Young members psychological problem to keep climbing day after day - snow on cauliflower very difficult. Groslej and Bozic tried for 3 days to climb up east end of face to gain E Ridge but went early 5500m but more than 17m deep snow. Went up between Roc Noir and Glacier Dome; reached 5500m on 25th Oct & then more snowfall.

  Some pieces of ice falling between C2 and C3 and a little rock falling. 

  Face more difficult than expected - have however applied for 6 members in spring 1994 to go to eastern route to gain E Ridge.


  The Timetable

  19-24/09   Departure from Ljubljana to KTM, and covering additional 
             200 km to Pokhara.
  25-29/09   March from Dhampus Pedhi near Pokhara to BC, which was put 
             up behind the eastern moraine of the Modi Glacier at 4050m.
  29/09      Establishing BC on a fine grassy plain.
  30/09      Establishing C1 on top of rocky promontory.
  02/10      Fixing ropes in a rock couloir and establishing a relay tent
             (for deposit or as a temporary camp) at 5600m.
  04/10      Establishing C2 (5900m) on the ridge, which further up develops 
             into a pillar leaning against the upper sections of the
             South Face 1000m higher.
  05/10      Consecration of BC (by Sherpas).
  06/10      Gradual advancing towards the ridge and along the ridge. The 
             ascent straight through the gully running parallel to the
             ridge was not considered prudent on account of the falling 
             ice. It might have been negotiated only in the alpine style 
             of climbing. The only remaining possible route of ascent led
             via extremely tiresome cauliflower like formations of ice 
             of ice and snow on the sharp ridge, and via vertical and
             overhanging mushrooms of rotten ice and snow. The height 6400m.
  11-14/10   Heavy snowfall stopped any progress on the mountain. Furlan
             and Supin were caught at C2 and pinned down by avalanches for
             four days, but they saved the camp by continually shovelling
             away the snow. Fresh snow reached 80 cm at 5600m and 150 cm 
             at 6000m. The snow also stopped the alpine style French 
             rope, just below to retreat, and on the way down Pierre 
             Beghin was killed. His rope-mate Jean Christoph Lafaille 
             managed a three-day solo descent, and found refuge in our BC.
  15-17/10   Continuing the ascent along the ridge, which, owing to the 
             masses of fresh snow, was hardly suitable for climbing. The
             height reached by the climbers: 6600m
  18/10      Levelling out a platform for deposit, later used for C3 at 6600m
  19/10      Soon above C3 Groselj and Bozic gave up their attempt to 
             advance, and so did Jamnik and Ravnik, finding the ice 
             and snow conditions unmanageable.
  20-21/10   After extreme strain Tomazin and Bence reached 6700m which
             was to be the highest point, and decided that at that speed
             of advancement the summit was out of the question.
  21/10      At 14 hours the decision was passed that the attempt on the
             British Route should be given up. Instead, one or two ropes 
             should try climbing via the extreme right wing of the South 
             Face and reaching the East Ridge, which, though long, is not
             considered to be technically very demanding. The first to try this
             second choice were Groselj and Bozic, with the assistance of Sherpas.
  23-25/10   Groselj and Bozic found the orientation hard, but finally 
             a passage to the foot of the ice slope leading up to the 
             ridge. However, they had been delayed so much that they were
             forced to return. Morever, a heavy snowfall set in. During 
             the afternoon of the 25th and before the morning of the 26th
             Oct BC had 15-30 cm of fresh snow; at 5000m the amount was
             60 cm, and 6000m more than 100 cm, without, in fact, anyone
             of us knowing it at that time. Groselj and Tomazin were
             supposed to undertake another attempt, as Bozic had given
             priority to official duties.

             In the meantime we began to clear up the former route. Bence
             and Supin had been taken ill and left the expedition on 24th
             Oct. On 26th Oct Kajzelj, Ravnik, Jamnik, Rupar and Bozic
             decided to leave the expedition, since, as they declared,
             they found any further attempt futile. Furlan joined them
             on account of a frostbitten finger. In the morning of the 
             27th Oct they left base camp.
             
             Only while clearing up C2 in the afternoon of the same day 
             did we notice the enormous amounts of fresh snow which had
             fallen in higher parts. At least one week of fine weather 
             would have been needed to let the snow on the gentle sloped 
             glacier settle and make walking possible. Until then the 
             climbing on the steep slopes leading up towards the ridge was
             not safe either. Now the last chance of reaching the top 
             was gone, as we had no more time left. So the remaining 
             members left BC on 28th to supervise the transport of the
             equipment back to the valley (Bozic, Furlan, Tomazin and 
             Skarja, who waited for the arrival of the equipment). Some of
             it was stored there and some was sent back home. During the 
             remaining days they wrote the necessary reports, paid the 
             Sherpas and submitted an official application for a pocket.


expid: BHRI92301
peakid: BHRI
year: 1992
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Bertrand Doligez
sponsor: French Bhrikuti Expedition
ascent1: 6th,7th
approach: Tange->Yara->Bas Khola->Damodar Kund
bcdate: 1992-10-31
smtdate: 1992-11-01
termdate: 1992-11-03
campsites: BC(31/10,4900m),C1(01/11,5700m),Smt(01-02/11)
accidents: Nothing except altitude sickness
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  1st summit party went directly from BC to summit in 8 hrs up and 4 down while on 1st Nov 2nd team to C1 only, then to summit on 2nd and down to BC. In 2nd summit team were 3 members who went up 100-200m, began having altitude probems and turned back to BC. Ridge mostly snow with a little ice but not very steep.


expid: TILI92302
peakid: TILI
year: 1992
route1: NE Spur-N Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Othmar Zingerle
sponsor: Global Alpine Tilicho Expedition
bcdate: 1992-10-27
smtdate: 1992-11-05
termdate: 1992-11-08
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to bad fuel, low BC and lack of time
campsites: BC(27/10,5050m),ABC(02/11,5100m),C1(05/11,6200m),xxx(05/11,6200m)
accidents: Karl sick (altitude?); sirdar blood infection
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC  at southeast side of lake, 4 hours from normal site at northwest side of lake
  ABC at normal site at northwest side of lake
  C1  where NE Spur meets North Ridge
  High point at C1

  Porters refused to carry to normal BC site because of snow and this made progress slow and awkward. Then in C1 very strong winds on night of 5th made inexperienced climbers go down next day with all equipment. Then cooking stove at ABC didn't work because of locally purchased unpure fuel. Now no time left.


expid: TILI92301
peakid: TILI
year: 1992
route1: N Ridge direct
nation: Italy
leaders: Francesco Santon
sponsor: International Tilicho Expedition
countries: Argentina, Czechoslovakia
approach: Jomsom->Mesokanto Pass
bcdate: 1992-09-01
smtdate: 1992-09-12
termdate: 1992-09-18
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to deaths of 2 friends
campsites: BC(01/09,5000m),C1(04/09,5500m),C2(12/09,5900m),xxx(12/09,5900m)
accidents: 2 members developed altitude sickness and left BC Sep 10
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  BC northwest of lake, directly north of ridge and below.

  C2 made on 12th and Sherpas down to get more gear while Italians stayed there. Then snowfall came every day, not heavy snowfall but no incentive for others to go up. On 15th avalanche came, probably at 12:30 pm; small avalanche going slowly down west side of ridge. No contact after 11:30 am, after they had gone up 50-100m to see route with bivouacs, looking at how to get around serac just above C2. Next morning in good weather, those below at BC could see avalanche traces & no tent or activity. 16th search team went up and arrived at 1:30-2:00 pm and found only small piece of tent slightly below campsite: tent probably carried down and buried in 2m of snow. Too dangerous to search more for bodies because continuing avalanching. Route not difficult but very bad rock with falling stones. This direct N Ridge route maybe safer than NE Spur.


expid: ANN192301
peakid: ANN1
year: 1992
route1: S Face (new line)
nation: France
leaders: Pierre Beghin
sponsor: French S Face Annapurna Expedition
bcdate: 1992-09-15
smtdate: 1992-10-11
termdate: 1992-10-18
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to Beghin's fatal fall
campsites: BC(15/09,4300m),ABC(18/09,5330m),Biv1(6500m),Biv2(10/10,7000m),Biv3(11/10,7300m),xxx(11/10,7400m)
accidents: Beghin's fatal fall & Laffille hit by falling rock
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  BC  same as Bonington BC
  ABC on glacier
  Biv 1 at bottom of rock
  Biv 2 on rock.

  Reached BC 9 am & Lafaille walked over to it. At start of climbing went to 6200m, then made 1st biv at 6500m. 2 nights & down to BC because weather not good. 7th Oct to ABC. Lafaille & Beghin climbed on face 8th Oct night to 1st biv. 9th Oct in night to 7000m. 11th Oct climbed rock & biv in difficult place, sitting on ice in not very good weather ("a lot of snow, a lot of wind"). 11th Oct up to end of difficulty at 7400m, but weather not good & down in morning. 

  Beghin fell when rope came away from mountain at about 7100m, not seen again & not possible he survived more than 1000m fall (perhaps 2000m). Lafaille soloed down to 2nd biv at 7000m where stayed nights of 11th & 12th, then down to 1st biv for 1 night & 1 day, then in night of 14th descended to ABC in difficult snow conditions on glacier & tent crushed under snow, so on down to Slovene's BC 15th afternoon very tired. Slovenes did no climbing to rescue Lafaille whom they could see slowly descending towards glacier. 

  Route of French a new biv between British & Japanese routes - is a good line but very dangerous when sun is on face & very small places for biv. Another problem is ice on rock - impossible to rest on face, wearing helmet all the time because of falling rock.

  20th Gabarrow will fly in Bell helicopter to look in area of glacier & a ledge 1000m higher for Beghin's body. If body seen, will try to recover it; if none seen, search ended.

  This was Lafaillle's 1st time climbing with Beghin. He has very good experience & we were a good cocktail: "more technique from one & more experienced from Pierre." Pierre the best climber in Himalaya from France.

  On this face is good to climb quickly & there is much technical climbing, Lafaille climbed as quickly as Beghin: "it is not possible to survive if you fall on this face."


  Ministry of Tourism - 18 Oct 92

  LO with Annapurna I returned today with Lafaille: Ministry of Tourism say LO reported: 

  Beghin ahead slightly - sudden big sound, Beghin somersaulted 3 times, rock falling and hit Lafaille and broke his right hand. Erected tent where he was when rock hit. Shouted to get attention of Slovenes, but not heard. Slovenes and Sherpas searching with torchlight and he shouted, they found him and was brought to Slovenes BC. Slovenes doctor treated him. Lafaille is giving confused answers. LO gave no altitudes. Lafaille has not seen Beghin since Jean taken to Patan Hospital.


expid: MANN92302
peakid: MANN
year: 1992
route1: N Ridge from E
nation: France
leaders: Claude Rey
sponsor: French Manaslu N Expedition
countries: Belgium
bcdate: 1992-10-14
smtdate: 1992-10-18
termdate: 1992-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 5500m due to dangerous snow conditions and death of support trek leader in avalanche
campsites: BC(14/10,4250m),C1(16/10,4600m),C2(17/10,5200m),xxx(18/10,5500m)
accidents: Nothing except avalanche which hurt no one; Louande mild altitude sickness in C2
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC as same as Czechs in 1979
  C1 on moraine of Lakya Glacier
  C3 at same site as Czechs in 1979
  High point on North Ridge.

  Route is dangerous if someone is seriously sick in C3 at 5700m col because to get to glacier and safety one has to climb up twice and if heavy snow fall, again danger in couloir. Better route is from west and Rey hopes to do this in 1994. Started fixing ropes just past C2 because many crevasses in glacier below C2, which was on rock.

  West side of N Ridge: no steep slopes; icefall that probably be avoided; crevasses in glacier.

  Oct 3rd   Gorkha
  Oct 14th, BC  4250m west side Larkya Glacier
  Oct 16th, C1  4600m middle Larkya Glacier
  Oct 17th, C2  5200m beginning of equipment of col leading to ridge. Lot of snow.

  Oct 18th bad weather. All members except two in C2. Equipment of 150m more in the col. Deep fresh snow (1.50m) and Dumas and Chevillon taken in a small wind slab avalanche (not injured) at highest point reached by expedition (by them).

  Oct 19th snow again during the night.
  C2 carried down to C1
  Oct 20th, everybody back to base camp.

  Reason why the climbing has been stopped:

  1. Lack of time in such snow conditions: 2 days were necessary to climb
     half of a couloir which normally would take one day.  
  2. Dangerous snow conditions (2 members were caught in an avalanche 
     fortunately without any harm for they were strongly secured on fixed ropes.
  3. Announcement of the death on 13 Oct at Chorang from falling stone
     friend Bernard leading the trekking group which started with us in 
     Gurkha. Deputy leader Titus especially shocked by death of a friend and
     leader about concerned trekker's crossing Larkya La and went with Delorme
     through night of 18th to go to them. So now 3 climbers gone from climb.

  Note regarding the altitude of the camps on the attached map: due to altimeter checking with the altitude of Larkya pass we think Larkya La could be at 5000m only. If the given altitude of Larkya La is right 200m must be added to all camp altitudes (BC 4450m/C1 4800m/C2 5400m).

  Note regarding equipment left on the mountain: everything has been removed from camps, but 300m fixed ropes have been left in the col due to avalanche danger.


expid: MANA92303
peakid: MANA
year: 1992
route1: NE Face (variation at start)
nation: Poland
leaders: Krzysztof Wielicki
sponsor: International Expedition to Manaslu 1992
ascent1: 38th
countries: Belgium, Bulgaria, Italy
bcdate: 1992-09-12
smtdate: 1992-09-28
termdate: 1992-10-01
campsites: BC(12/09,4200m),C1(16/09,5550m),C2(21/09,6600m),Biv(02/10,7300m),Smt(28/09)
accidents: Passino jumped crevasse Sep 27 and injured both feet; two fatalities
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at left of glacier (others on right at 4700m)
  C2  at Naike Col (just above Col on rocky pyramid)
  Biv at North Col.

  All members not at Samagaon on 11th Sept. Bianchi and Kuntner left on 1 Oct because their climb finished and wanted to get home soon as possible. Summiters climbed to top from C2. They decided suddenly to go to top with Wielicki on easy route in good weather and not wait for C3's establishment. 27 Sept 3 men left C2 at 1 am to C1 at 6 pm [and summited the next day]. 

  28th Sept the 2 Bulgarians from C2 10 pm and reached 7800m at 10 am 29th and going too slowly and had no biv equipments and getting tired so back to C2. 

  30th Sept Stocka and Pankiewicz to 7000m and bived there, left gear for C3 there and down 1 Oct. 

  2nd Oct Sprutta, Vermeiren and Dmowska from C2, took gear from 7000m and found empty tent 2-3m off route and just near it Dmowska slipped, fell and died. Sprutta, her boy friend, went to search for her while Vermeiren stayed in tent. Vermeiren fell to his death on descent to C2 the next day.


  Polish International Expedition to Manaslu - Aut 1992

  Report relating to accidents of Miss Sylvia Dmowska and Mr Sven Vermeiren.

  On October 2nd the following team left C2 (6600m) at 8 am: Mariez Sprutta (Polish), Sven Vermeiren (Belgian) and Sylvia Dmowska (Polish). They were supposed to get altitude 7300m in order to fix C3. Weather was good (sunny little windy). Using fix ropes at 6 pm they reached 7200m. Because of darkness and getting bad weather they decided to stop going up and to bivouac in abandoned tent of Canadian expedition.

  While getting to the tent, just 2-3 meters below it Miss Dmowska slipped down ice slope. Vermeinen stayed in the tent and Sprutta went down in order to search Miss Dmowska. It was already completely dark and his searching gave no results, however he found ice-axe and gas stove carried by Miss Dmowska. Finally he got back to C2 (6600m) without finding his partner.

  At midnight Mr K. Wielicki and Mr B. Dimitrov left BC in order to help in rescue action. They reached C1 (5550m) in the morning on October 3rd, being all time in radio contact with Vermeiren (C3) and Sprutta (C 2). At 7:30 am from C3 Vermeiren started going down using fix ropes to C2, from where he was observed by Sprutta. At 10:30 am Vermeiren was seen last time on easy slope at 6800m, close to C2 and suddenly disappeared. Sprutta left C2 in order to search Vermeiren. He did not meet him and in that situation Wielicki and Dimitrov decided to go quickly up from Col to continue rescue action going up at 4 pm. At 6450m (below C2) they found Vermeiren seriously injured without consciousness. They transported him to C2 and started recusitation, but it gave no results and at 7 pm Vermeiren died because of injuries and getting cold. Wielicki, Dimitrov and Sprutta spent a night in C2 and next day (Oct 4th) they continued searching Miss Dmowska. They found her on the slope, above C2, hundred meters left aside the route; she was dead, probably because of injuries after 500m fall down though serac and slope. After that Weilicki, Dimitrov and Sprutta transported both bodies to crevasse below serac at 6500m and buried them there. The same day in very bad weather (heavy snowfall, strong wind) they reached C1 and next day hardly they managed (still in very bad weather) to get Samagaon and then after Base Camp.


expid: MANA92301
peakid: MANA
year: 1992
route1: NE Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Park Tae-Kyu
sponsor: 1992 Cho Sun University Club Manaslu Expedition
ascent1: 38th disputed
bcdate: 1992-09-01
smtdate: 1992-09-25
smttime: 1800
termdate: 1992-09-26
termnote: Success main peak claimed
campsites: BC(02/09,4600m),C1(06/09,5600m),C2(08/09,6000m),C3(11/09,6500m),ForeSmt(25/09,8125m)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  Summit push on 25th Sept only because of bad weather: much snowfall & strong winds & no C4 pitched. On 23rd Sep summit party left BC for C1. 24th C4 & that midnight started for top, climbed all night & next day & on top 25th 6 pm (ascent disputed). No stop during this ascent through waist deep snow. Left summit 6:50 pm after taking pictures, made biv at 7850m at 8 pm in snowhole but did not sleep. Left snowhole at 5 am on 26th & reached C3 10:30 am & rested there, then down to BC at 5:20 that night. Summiters took food & water up from C4 but not sleeping bag. No other summit bids after this, but 2 parties had tried earlier. Both tried to make C4 at 7200m but bad weather drove them down from 7200m.

  Lee Young-Cheol & Nawang to Kathmandu 28th Sept & Lee immediately to Seoul hospital.

  Koreans claim to have made summit, but disputed. Polish-Italian party report summiters footprints stopped at foremost lesser summit.


  Bianchi (Wielicki team member) - 9 Oct 92

  Koreans reached one of many peaks 50-80m lower than highest, about 500m north of highest Italians took pix of their footprints stopping at this peak. Italians followed their footprints. (Wielicki had been to summit before by new route and knew which was highest). Wielicki knew this was not highest. Koreans had good weather like Italians 3 days later.

accidents:
  Lee Young-Cheol frostbitten all toes but will be OK; Nawang Phurba also slight frostbite; Kim Byong-Kyu frostbitten fingers while trying to make C4


expid: KGUR92301
peakid: KGUR
year: 1992
route1: SW Face-W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Takashi Arai
sponsor: Asahikawa Alpine Club Expedition to Kang Guru
ascent1: 13th
approach: Kangla (Pass)->Nu village
bcdate: 1992-09-13
smtdate: 1992-09-22
smttime: 1400
termdate: 1992-09-26
campsites: BC(13/09,3420m),ABC(16/09,4700m),C1(19/09,5200m),C2(21/09,5900m),Smt(22/09)
accidents: Nakase vision problem and loss of balance at 6700m on Sep 22
agency: Dream Trekking
routememo:
  BC at usual base site (Nar Khola)
  C1 below icefall
  C2 under shoulder of West Ridge on SW Face.

  22 Sept all members and 1 Sherpa left C2 at 5:30 am: Nakase had altitude problems and stopped at noon at 6700m with emergency tent while others went on to summit which reached at 2:00 pm in easy climb in good snow condition; returned to C2 at 7:30 pm. Had fixed no rope on ascent but on descent to help some, Nakase used 2 pitons and climbing rope. Had reached Nakase's tent at 3:30 pm where he was in same condition as when he stopped climbing. All slept in C2 22nd, ABC 23rd and BC 24th.


expid: MANA92302
peakid: MANA
year: 1992
route1: NE Face
nation: Canada
leaders: Michael Galbraith
sponsor: Canadian Manaslu Expedition
bcdate: 1992-09-09
smtdate: 1992-10-01
termdate: 1992-10-03
termnote: Abandoned at 8050m due to lack of time and strength
othersmts: Climbed Manaslu North (MANN-923-01)
campsites: BC(09/09,4750m),C1(12/09,5600m),C2(18/09,6100m),C3(22/09,6500m),C4(30/09,7500m),xxx(01/10,8050m)
accidents: Brown pneumonia; 2 Nepalis altitude sickness
achievment: 1st Canadian ascent of Manaslu North I
agency: Nepal Himal
routememo:
  BC next to South Koreans
  C1 slightly higher than Naike Col, up a bit of steep rock
  C3 just before North Col.

  24th Sept summit bid from C3 by Brown, Chase & Indra Gurung and got to 24,800 ft (7560m) by Brown (just below plateau) while other 2 stopped shortly after leaving camp because Italians turned up without gear looking for their much higher camp; very windy that day. Brown coughing blood from pneumonia he was developing. 

  2nd summit bid on 1st Oct from C4 by Indra Gurung and Ang Kami Sherpa. Chase had dropped out below C3 while 2 Nepalis established C4 and tried for top on 1st when got 100m below summit. They were having altitude sickness (headache, vomiting) and finally turned back. Then no one strong enough to mount another summit bid immediately and members had to leave Nepal on 21st and 2 members had just climbed Manaslu N. 1st Oct Powter and Tucker went from C3 to higher (southern).

  Manaslu North Peak: fairly steep snow, knife-edge ridge, heavily corniced on east side; left C3 8:30 am, on top at about 11:30 am and back at Polish-Italian C3 at 1 pm, own C3 at 1:30 and C2 to sleep and to help 2 Nepalis descend to C2 from between C4 and C3.


expid: HIML92301
peakid: HIML
year: 1992
route1: W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yukio Niwa
sponsor: Himlung Himal Expedition of Acadamic Alpine Club of Hokkaido
ascent1: 1st,2nd
approach: Kang La->Phu Khola
bcdate: 1992-09-25
smtdate: 1992-10-03
smttime: 1045
termdate: 1992-10-09
campsites: BC(25/09,4800m),C1(27/09,5450m),C2(01/10,6000m),C3(02/10,6250m),Smt(03,06/10)
accidents: Altitude sickness kept 6 members from going above C2 or to summit
agency: Guides For All Seasons
routememo:
  BC at pasture
  C2 on West Ridge
  C3 on West Ridge.

  Previous expedition to this mountain actually climbed peak named Nemjung on central Nepal map & Annapurna Conservation Area map. This expedition almost certainly first to scale mountain named Himlung on this map, which according to map is at the correct longitude of 84 25 19.

  Higuchi: "I think it's an easy climb - we go on snow - icefall easy; no fixed rope - fixed steep ridge from C1 to C2; this only place fixed - from C3 to top just a steep slope. Weather very fine."

  Higuchi used Gamov bag one hour on 29 Sept after descent from C1 (and not sure it was useful for him).


expid: NEMJ92301
peakid: NEMJ
year: 1992
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Peter Hudd
sponsor: British Peri Himal Expedition to Himlung
bcdate: 1992-10-28
smtdate: 1992-11-16
termdate: 1992-11-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to lack resources and time
campsites: BC(28/10,4450m),C1(30/10,5100m),C2(04/11,5400m),C3(08/11,6100m),C4(15/11,6250m),xxx(16/11,6400m)
accidents: None
routememo:
  BC in valley at head of stream just East of Tilicho Peak
  C1 on subsidiary summit on approach to South Ridge
  C2 on a subsidiary ridge leading to South Ridge
  C3 on SE Ridge
  C4 on SE Ridge
  High point at South Ridge.

  No problem getting porters to high BC on arrival and departure despite a foot of snow at BC on departure. Very complicated mountain with lots of spurs on S Face. Tried different approach to S Ridge from last year's British team, probably lost 10 days doing so in order to get on to S Ridge proper & this probably why failed to reach summit. Was some avalanche activity with collapse of big serac & then snow avalanches from frequent new snowfall. Quite a lot of technical climbing from C3 to C4. Fixed rope mostly above C2 but only in various places. Could well have used more for abseiling down but were saving remaining 500 feet of rope for use higher up. Stopped climb on 17th Nov because would have taken 10 more days to top & didn't have resources (especially gas) for that many more days & only 2 members feeling strong enough to try, plus communications problem with members lower down who had started clearing camps. Had asked for 2 weeks extension of time because of very frequent snowfall in early Nov. Received 1 week's extension.

  *Peak this team attempted is mountain designated as Nemjung on Annapurna Conservation Area map. Knew what they were attempting was called Nemjung on map but attempted this peak because all others in previous years had done so and theirs only information this team had to go on. In UK before coming to Nepal had discussed this map situation with leader of last year's British team, Richard Emerson, concluded map was wrong and thought no more about it.

  *"Japanese probably have a fair claim" to being first to climb true Himlung - "no reason map should be wrong."

  Hudd and Ottewell would like to return to same mountain next autumn and make two-man alpine-style ascent of same route.


expid: CHOY92306
peakid: CHOY
year: 1992
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Franc Urh
sponsor: Slovenia Expedition Cho Oyu
ascent1: 112
bcdate: 1992-09-09
smtdate: 1992-09-21
campsites: BC(09/09,5500m),C1(11/09,6200m),C2(18/09,6800m),C3(20/09,7600m),Smt(21/09)
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  Japanese were first on mountain, fixed the route and all others this autumn from Nepalese and Tibet followed their route.

  [* Italian expedition's doctor, an opthamologist, said 30 Sept 92 that all 6 Slovenes had retinal hemorrhages: 4 at start, when went to C2 and they down - 1 of them "general edema" and he recovered and went to C1. 5 who reached summit had severe retinal hemorrhage; one hemorrhage was in center of eye and takes time to clear itself. All summiters except Ales had serious frostbite and Stefan may lose tip of one finger].

accidents:
  Dobnik heart problem on arrival at BC (4700m), later recovered; 4 members slight frostbite; Italian's doctor reported retinal hemorrhage


expid: CHOY92303
peakid: CHOY
year: 1992
route1: W Ridge-W Face from S
nation: Spain
leaders: Gregorio Ariz
sponsor: Basque Expedition Cho Oyu 1992
ascent1: 106,109,113 w/Arag
bcdate: 1992-09-02
smtdate: 1992-09-17
termdate: 1992-09-23
campsites: BC(02/09,5200m),ABC(06/09,5500m),C1(07/09,6400m),C2(12/09,7200m),C3(16/09,7750m),Smt(17,20,29/09)
accidents: Ganuza and Aranzabal bad frostbitten toes (Ganuza fingers also)
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  BC  at true Kangshung
  ABC/depot northeast of Nangpa La
  C1  same as Catalans, 100m above top
  C2  same as Catalans 
  C3  same as Catalans.

  On 20th Sept 2 members in C3 [and went to the top]; 3 members in C2 on 26th Sept but none higher because of strong wind and extreme cold. Ballano stayed on to try with Aragon expedition to try for summit again.

  9 Oct - According to Aragon summiter, Ballano went to top on 29 Sept.


expid: CHOY92305
peakid: CHOY
year: 1992
route1: W Ridge-W Face from S
nation: Spain
leaders: Mariano Lopez
sponsor: Cho Oyu Expedition 1992 of Pyrenees Mountain Club
ascent1: 113 w/Basq
bcdate: 1992-09-06
smtdate: 1992-09-29
smttime: 1700
termdate: 1992-10-04
campsites: BC(06/09,5200m),ABC(12/09,5600m),C1(18/09,6400m),C2(20/09,7200m),C3(28/09,7600m),Smt(29/09)
accidents: Lopsang Sherpa pulmonary edema; Lopez felt very cold and would have frozen; Jean hemorrhoids
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at true Kangchung
  ABC northeast of Nangpa La.

  All members reached C2. 

  C3 pitched by Jimeno (only member to go above C2) with Kazi Sherpa. Climbed on to top 29th [with Ballano]. Weather not good (strong wind and snow falling); left C3 7:30 am, 5 pm on top and in descent bived at 8000m; lost their way and went too far to left; made biv at 6:30 pm and stayed until 7:00 am. 30th Sept to C1.


expid: CHOY92304
peakid: CHOY
year: 1992
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: Italy
leaders: Giovanni Santambrogio
sponsor: Italian Expedition Cho Oyu
ascent1: 110
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1992-09-04
smtdate: 1992-09-20
termdate: 1992-09-28
campsites: BC(04/09),ABC(08/09,5700m),C1(10/09,6250m),C2(16/09,6850m),C3(19/09,7400m),Smt(20/09)
accidents: Airoldi slight retinal hemorrhage at end of climb
agency: Trekking International
routememo:
  22 Sept 3 members tried for top: went to C3 but on 22nd too windy and descended; no more summit attempts. 

  Japanese put in route to C3 using direct line between C2 and C3; Spaniards made route above C3.


expid: CHOY92307
peakid: CHOY
year: 1992
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: France
leaders: Laurent Davenas
sponsor: French Cho Oyu (Autumn 1992)
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1992-09-21
smtdate: 1992-10-03
termdate: 1992-10-18
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(21/09),ABC(23/09,5700m),C1(25/09,6300m),C2(29/09,7200m),xxx(03/10,7400m)
accidents: Nothing after BC
agency: Everest Expeditions
routememo:
  Jager left at going up 3 Oct for top but stopped 7400m because of snow and cold and returned to BC. No further summit bids because of snow and wind every day.


expid: CHOY92301
peakid: CHOY
year: 1992
route1: W Ridge-W Face from S
nation: Spain
leaders: Joan Colet
sponsor: Catalan Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 106 w/Basq
bcdate: 1992-08-27
smtdate: 1992-09-17
smttime: 1407
campsites: BC(27/08,5125m),ABC(01/09,5500m),C1(03/09,6400m),C2(12/09,7200m),C3(16/09,7750m),TrueSmt(17/09)
accidents: Colet some frostbite on all 5 right fingers & right toes but will heal
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  BC  at Kangchung's true site
  ABC northeast of Nangpa La
  C1  at normal site
  C2  at normal site
  C3  at normal site.

  Only Colet tried for summit from this team. Some teammates not yet well acclimatized, so plan was to try for top later, but then Basques (on other expeditions) got frostbite. These people helped them to get back to their BC and then this team did not return for another summit bid. Colet made C3 alone on 16th and set out for top on 17th with 2 Basques. Left C3 at 5 am and on top at 2:07 pm and returned to C3 5 pm and slept there. Fingers and toes (on right side only) became frostbitten during descent to C3 and during night without water. Now this team had to help a Basque badly frostbitten on 7th reach her BC. Then another Basque frostbite case and helped again. Left tents on mountain for Basques to use and hope they will bring them to Kathmandu (Lopez's team worked more in 2nd rescue and are still on mountain).


expid: CHOY92308
peakid: CHOY
year: 1992
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Kwan-Jun
sponsor: Korean Cho Oyu Expedition in Tibet China 1992
ascent1: 107
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
smtdate: 1992-09-20
othersmts: Climbed Xixabangma (after Cho Oyu)
campsites: ABC(06/09),C3(16/09,7500m),Smt(20/09)
accidents: None on either mountain; Kim Young-Tae slight frostbite on Cho Oyu
agency: Universal Trekking Network
routememo:
  After Cho Oyu climb, 4 members left for Kathmandu because not enough food for 8 members on Xixabangma. Those who left leader Kim Kwan-Jun, deputy leader Sin Young-Ho, Sin Young-Chul and Sohn Kyoung-Deug. So on Xixabagma were 4 remaining members and one climbing Sherpa. Xixabangma summit reached on 20th October by same 2 Koreans on top Cho Oyu & Mingma Nuru.

  Mingma Nuru and Nima Dorje (according to Ang Dorje of Villa Everest) both came from Rolwaling; Mingma Nuru already summited Everest & Cho Oyu, Nima Dorje had summited Everest twice.


expid: CHOY92302
peakid: CHOY
year: 1992
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: Japan
leaders: Hideki Yatsuhashi
sponsor: Kathmandu Club Cho Oyu-Xixabangma Expedition
ascent1: 108,111
countries: N Korea
bcdate: 1992-08-27
smtdate: 1992-09-20
smttime: 0930
termdate: 1992-09-26
othersmts: Attempted Xixabangma (after Cho Oyu)
campsites: BC(27/08,5700m),C1(29/08,6450m),C2(7050m),C3(7500m),Smt(20-21/09)
accidents: Kondo hit by snow avalanche but only bruised.
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Summit reached - 
  20th Sept  9:30 am (NST)  - Taniguchi, Hayashimoto
  20th Sept  9:45 am (NST)  - Tsukamato
  20th Sept 10:45 am (NST)  - Kondou, Baba, Nima Sherpa & 
                              Mingma Tenzing Sherpa
  20th Sept 11:00 am (NST)  - Takao
  20th Sept 12:00    (NST)  - An Yong-Jong
  21st Sept  8:00 am        - Yatsuhashi, K Kamazawa, Miss Sato, 
                              Ang Phurba and Dawa Noru
  21st Sept  9:00 am        - Yanagihara
  21st Sept 10:45 am        - Kimoto (from C2)


expid: CHOL92301
peakid: CHOL
year: 1992
route1: W Rib-SW Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Martin Hunter
sponsor: 1992 New Zealand Cholatse Expedition
ascent1: 7th,8th
countries: Australia
bcdate: 1992-09-17
smtdate: 1992-09-26
smttime: 1000
termdate: 1992-10-05
campsites: BC(17/09,4800m),C1(23/09,5600m),C2(25/09,6200m),Smt(26/09,03/10)
accidents: Darragh's intestinal problem
achievment: 1st solo of Cholatse by Darragh
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC east of Charchang
  C1 at bottom of West Rib above icefall
  C2 high on rib (really top of rib).

  C1 pitched on 21st of Sept but occupied on 23rd. 24th biv at 5800m, same site as '88 US team on W Rib. 25th made a camp at 6200m; just above C2 climbed on to SW Ridge & followed it to summit. Darragh had gotten sick & stayed in BC during summit push of 24-26th Sept. 27th summiters from C2 to BC. On 29th 1 member had gone to Namche & returned to BC on 1st while Falkner stayed at BC with bad case of flu. On 1st Oct Darragh started up for his own summit bid & bivouacked on his climb. Darragh 1st biv at 5600m, 2nd biv at 5800m which he reached in early hours of 2nd Oct (same place as Trio's biv); from this biv early on 3rd began his summit push & on top in late morning, spent less than half an hour on top & at 8:30 am in tracks remaining from earlier summit climb and using their abseil anchors.

  Did not attempt W Face direct route because it was threatened by ice cliff & would have had to pay 2nd royalty.


  Martin Hunter - 1992

  Cholatse (6440m): On 17 Sept 1992 Cam Falkner, Derek Chinn, Adam Darragh and I found ourselves sitting at the base camp under the imposing West Face of Cholatse 6440m in the Khumbu region of Nepal.

  We planned to attempt a line directly up the middle of the face between the NW Ridge, climbed by the Salters expedition in 1988, and a blunt rib on the right of the face which had also been attempted by that expedition. Considering the direct route too threatened we turned our attention to the West Rib.

  We established camp one on 21 Sept and retreated to base camp. We returned to camp one on 23 Sept and the following day bivouacked at 5800m.


expid: AMAD92302
peakid: AMAD
year: 1992
route1: S Ridge up; SW Ridge down
nation: Australia
leaders: Richard Howes
sponsor: Ama Dablam Lagunak Ridge Canadian-Australian Expedition
ascent1: 108
countries: Canada
bcdate: 1992-10-10
smtdate: 1992-11-01
termdate: 1992-11-03
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (all members)
accidents: None
agency: Lamjung
campsites:
  BC(10/10,5050m),C1(11/10,5600m),C2(21/10,6000m),C3(28/10,6300m),C4(30/10,6400m),C5(31/10,6550m),Smt(01/11)

routememo:
  BC  west of on Schneider map at south end of SW Ridge
  ABC at base of sharp sectors of S Ridge, where broad ridge ends
  C2  above a buttress on narrow slope of S Ridge
  C3  where ridge because all snow and ice with mushrooms
  C4  inside a mushroom on ridge
  C5  on top of Dablam on normal SW Ridge to across rock face.

  7th Oct put BC at normal site for SW Ridge route, then moved camp higher and closer to their own route. On 1st Nov reached summit after some of Todd's expedition: Pawlowski and 4 clients and before Todd; descended SW Ridge, Vran very tired so so in tent at C3 and other 3 to empty American tents in C2. All in just BC site at 4600m. Scariest part was descending ropes of normal route, some of which were old and came out. Fixed ropes immediately above C1 to C3 almost entire distance. Descended SW Ridge because no ropes fixed above C3 and traverse from Dablam to C3 would have been difficult. Went back up S Ridge to clear route of ropes (tent had taken up with them as they climbed).

  Ridge runs south from summit, east of S Face and standard-route's SW Ridge, says Pete Athans (26 May 1994), who was on standard route in autumn 1992).


expid: AMAD92309
peakid: AMAD
year: 1992
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Henry Todd
sponsor: Ama Dablam 1992
ascent1: 100,107,111
countries: Canada, Poland
bcdate: 1992-10-20
smtdate: 1992-10-24
termdate: 1992-11-04
campsites: BC(20/10,4600m),Dep(5200m),C1(26/10,5705m),C2(30/10,6000m),C3(31/10,6240m),Smt(24/10,01,07/11)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  No space for this expedition's tent at C2 site in late Oct, so only left cache there and in 2nd ascent picked up cache and carried on to C3; later used other's tents abandoned by other expeditions. Pawlowski and Lakes made 1st ascent on day most members arrived at BC. LO arrived with most members and did not recognize their ascent.


expid: AMAD92305
peakid: AMAD
year: 1992
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Peter Athans
sponsor: American Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 101,110
bcdate: 1992-10-13
smtdate: 1992-10-24
campsites: BC(13/10,4600m),ABC(14/10,5400m),C1(16/10,6030m),C2(23/10,6400m),Smt(24/10,07/11)
accidents: Carson broken leg; other minor illness
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC at Mingbo
  C1 on SW Ridge
  C2 on SW Ridge
  C3 on SW Ridge.

  8 members left BC on 4 Nov: Carson had broken leg so helicopter evacuation needed. Brock Hanna went with him to help him get around and take care of himself. Albert Hanna "psyched out" and Matous had had his climb and he had to tend to expedition matters in KTM. These 4 to KTM by helicopter on 6th Nov. Other 4 had also had their climb, went trekking in Khumbu and came to Kathmandu on 12th Nov with last 6 members except Athans, who stayed in Khumbu few days (probably next trip to trekking peaks in later part of Nov) and flew to Kathmandu 15th Nov.

  Unsuccessful summit bid on 31st by Schneider with Matous guiding him; turned back at 6600m when Schneider became too tired to go on.

  Andrew Carson, Athans and other members of the expedition were approaching the start of the fixed ropes at 18,500 ft on 1st Nov 1992 at 11:30 am. A rock was pulled off by one member of the group. This rock hit Andrew Carsons in right leg above the knee. His femur was broken and severe cuts sustained to the leg. Carson has been rescued by helicopter to Kathmandu.


expid: AMAD92307
peakid: AMAD
year: 1992
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Daniel Petraud
sponsor: Allibert Ama Dablam 1992
ascent1: 101,103,105
countries: Italy
bcdate: 1992-10-16
smtdate: 1992-10-24
campsites: BC(16/10,4600m),ABC(5500m),C1(17/10,5700m),C2(20/10,6000m),C3(21/10,6300m),Smt(24-25,27/10)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Two separate groups: Rolland's trio and Petrand's nine were on same permit but were independent parties. These French cooperated with Jean Noel Roche's team: Roche fixed route from C2 to C3 (Peter Athans had fixed to C1). Rolland arrived at BC on 12th & put tent at C2 above 13th and helped Petraud & Roche fix rope.

  Several other members would have tried for summit but when member of Roche's team had fatal fall, they lost interest.

  [Roche 5 Nov: Rolland-Lambard trio "bizarre." Supposed to be with Petraud's team, but said were autonomous; fixed very little rope, had no tents.]


expid: AMAD92308
peakid: AMAD
year: 1992
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Lluis Giner
sponsor: Catalonian Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 104,109
bcdate: 1992-10-19
smtdate: 1992-10-26
termdate: 1992-11-01
campsites: BC(19/10,4600m),C1(23/10,5700m),C2(24/10,6300m),Smt(26/10,04/11)
accidents: Barriere altitude sickness; never above BC; nothing else
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  BC next to US
  C2 as same as others C3.

  Always planned to climb normal SW Ridge, not SE Ridge. Easy route on SW Ridge since French had put fixed ropes above their C2 and US fixed below. After 1st teams' success, arrived at BC on 24th, acclimatized, then Carlos went up with De La Matta [again] and reached top.


expid: AMAD92306
peakid: AMAD
year: 1992
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Noel Roche
sponsor: Ama Dablam
ascent1: 102,106
countries: Belgium, Italy, USA
bcdate: 1992-10-13
smtdate: 1992-10-25
termdate: 1992-10-31
othersmts: Island Peak
campsites: BC(13/10,4500m),C1(16/10,5700m),C2(19/10,6200m),C3(21/10,6500m),Smt(25,28/10)
accidents: Only fatal fall
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  1st summit attempt was on 25th by Roche and 2 Americans [Gill and Southwell] (with Lambard of other team); hour later on top and Sangnier 1-2 hrs after Lambard in strong cold wind. Ropes had been fixed on mountain by Roche, Petraud, Athans and a little by J-J Rolland. Roche descended to C1 and 2 Americans in C2 on 25th. 

  On 26th 2 Belgians going up for C1 and C2 for summit bid on 28th, Karine Van Dooren fell from 6000m on ridge. Perhaps could have reached her by descending rope, but dangerous rock fall made it too dangerous to move body. 

  28th next summit bid by 2 Italians with Roche again going up and success (no one from other teams to top that day).

  2 May 1995: John Cleary of USA Ama Dablam team said 2 members of his party found decomposed body about 200m down South Face from ridge between C1 and C2 covered with stones but boots sticking out.


expid: AMAD92303
peakid: AMAD
year: 1992
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Renzo Turri
sponsor: Italian Ama Dablam
bcdate: 1992-10-10
smtdate: 1992-10-13
termdate: 1992-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 5350m due to lack of fixed rope and time
campsites: BC(10/10,4600m),xxx(13/10,5350m)
accidents: None
agency: Dhaulagiri Trek House
routememo:
  BC same as British this season.

  Deposited gear at Col and when arrived next time at Col to make C1 above there but found rope fixed by British had been removed by villagers and too difficult without rope so down again. Did not fix our rope because had only 100m and needed 400m to fix route; besides might take 15 days to reach top.


expid: AMAD92301
peakid: AMAD
year: 1992
route1: NE-N Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Malcolm Duff
sponsor: Ascent Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Norway, USA
bcdate: 1992-09-22
smtdate: 1992-10-10
termdate: 1992-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6170m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(22/09,4700m),C1(26/09,5350m),C2(07/10,6120m),xxx(10/10,6170m)
accidents: None
agency: Rover Treks
routememo:
  BC at end of lake southeast of Dingboche
  C1 just above and south of col on NE-N Ridge
  C2 on ridge where it turns southwest and makes it a NE Ridge.

  On 7th C2 established by Duff and Warham but did not sleep there. On 9th Ross and Ulvund climbed 2 pitches above C2 and gained 50m altitude while Duff and Warham came up again and joined them at high point, stopped by deep snow, not melting on northern aspect. All stayed night at C2 and next morning gave up because clear they would not summit in time available.


expid: AMAD92304
peakid: AMAD
year: 1992
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Beat Baumann
sponsor: Swiss Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Dingboche->Shanja and Ama Dablam Glacier
bcdate: 1992-10-12
smtdate: 1992-10-15
termdate: 1992-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(12/10,5100m),ABC(17/10,5600m),xxx(18/10,6000m)
accidents: Ang Dorje got sick (throat) & left BC 16 Oct to Pheriche aid post
agency: Dhaulagiri Trek House
routememo:
  13th Oct to cache at 5600m via pass at 5363m on ridge to 300m of pass and down to BC after leaving supplies. 14th Oct more supplies to cache. 15th Oct Ang Dorje & Baumann took loads to cache and to end of British fixed ropes at 5950m. Baumann fixed one rope to 6000m and then stopped because snow conditions impossible, so down to BC same day. 16th again loads to cache. 17th Baumann and Gamma to cache and brought down supplies, deciding climb finished because of snow conditions on ridge.

  For this route need 10 strong climbers & good snow conditions.


expid: AMAD92310
peakid: AMAD
year: 1992
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Laurent Terray
sponsor: French Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 112th
bcdate: 1992-11-06
smtdate: 1992-11-12
termdate: 1992-11-16
campsites: BC(06/11,4600m),C1(09/11,5800m),C2(10/11,6000m),C3(11/11,6300m),Smt(12/11)
accidents: None
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at normal site
  C1A at start of rock ridge.

  Massuyes and wife tried for top on 13th, but that was only day when there was some wind and cloud (so cold) and they turned back at 6400m on the ice still (did not reach snow area).


expid: PUMO92306
peakid: PUMO
year: 1992
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Norbert Joos
sponsor: Swiss Pumori Expedition
ascent1: 77th-79th
countries: Germany
bcdate: 1992-10-12
smtdate: 1992-10-21
smttime: 1200
termdate: 1992-10-28
campsites: BC(12/10,5320m),Dep(5700m),C2(17/10,6150m),Smt(21,23,25/10)
accidents: None
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at normal C2.

  Joos - 2 Nov 92

   4/10  Depart Switzerland
   5/10  Arrive in KTM
   6/10  Stay in KTM
   7/10  Fly for Lukla and approach to Phakding
   8/10  Arrive in Namche Bazaar
   9/10  Excursion in Namche
  10/10  Approach from Namche over Pheriche and Lobuche to Pumori BC at 5320m 
  13/10  Stay in BC
  14/10  BC to deposit in 5700m. Joos climbs to official C2 in 6150m and 
         returns to BC 
  15-16/10  All stay in BC
  17/10  H Zingg, R Cavigilli, P Marugg, T Waelchli, D Santschi and 
         Norbert Joos climb to C2 from BC. Waelchli and Santschi descend to BC.
  18/10  P Marugg and Norbert Joos fly by paraglider from C2 to Gorak Shep. 
         H Zingg and R Cavigilli descend to BC.
  19/10  E Marti, S Bucher, W Vollbrecht and H Gimm climb to C2 and stay overnight.
  20/10  H Zingg, P Marugg and Norbert Joos climb to C2.
  21/10  All above members climb Pumori summit from C2. start at 5:30 am 
         and get summit at 12:00 together with two American climbers. All
         summiters descend to BC at 17:00 hours.
  22/10  All above climbers get up to 6550m and got back to BC, no summit.
  23/10  E Marti climbs direct from BC to summit and returns to C2. Starts 
         at 2:00 and summits at 1:00 pm, was alone.
         W Vollbrecht, S Bucher & H Gimm climb to C2.
  24/10  E Marti and W Vollbrecht climb to 6500m and all go back to BC.
         D Santschi climbs with French members to C2.
  25/10  D Santschi climbs summit together with French leader and his Sherpa. 
         Start at 6:00 am and summit at 15:30 pm, returns to C2 at 18:00. 
  26/10  All members at BC.
  27/10  All members except leader leave BC to Lukla.
  28/10  Leader and staff leave BC for Namche and Lukla.
  30/10  Arrive in Lukla
   1/11  Leader arrives in KTM by flight from Lukla.
   2/11  All members arrive KTM from Lukla.


expid: PUMO92308
peakid: PUMO
year: 1992
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Michel Richard
sponsor: French Pumori Expedition
ascent1: 79th w/Swz
bcdate: 1992-10-14
smtdate: 1992-10-25
smttime: 1530
termdate: 1992-10-27
campsites: BC(14/10,5300m),ABC.Dep(5800m),C1(21/10,6200m),Smt(25/10)
accidents: None
agency: Tip & Top Trekking
routememo:
  21st Rouys, Richard, Sarki Nuru and Ang Dawa in C1 to sleep there, 1st to occupy C1. 22nd all 4 to BC. 24th Rouys, Richard and 4 Sherpas to C1 including Tendi and Dawa. 25th 6:00 am departure. Dawa and Tendi go down at 7000m because strong cold wind and just after at 12:00 Rouys afraid fingers were begining to freeze and he also down from 7050m. This was only day wind very strong; for 9 minutes winds so strong couldn't move at all. So Richard and Sarki to top at 3:30 pm and returned to C1 that night and BC next day. No members up after this because all very tired.

  Mountain dangerous from avalanche. BC high; not good for acclimatization and cold.


expid: PUMO92305
peakid: PUMO
year: 1992
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Scott Hartl
sponsor: Capital District Pumori Expedition
ascent1: 77th w/Swz
bcdate: 1992-10-11
smtdate: 1992-10-21
smttime: 1230
termdate: 1992-10-22
campsites: BC(11/10,5350m),Dep(11/10,5700m),C1(15/10,6200m),Smt(21/10)
accidents: Dietrich mild pulmonary edema in mid-Oct; Hartl very mildly frostbitten toes
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC northeast of big lake
  Cache below and right of normal route, where snow began
  C1 at top first rock rib (normal site).

  One section of 50 ft vertical ice at serac band 100m above col required ability to climb ice (which Canadians and Dutch felt they couldn't climb without ladders). Americans and Swiss managed with Swiss passing Americans on summit day after Americans had broken trail through deep snow and tired. No technical difficulties except serac barrier; turned by serac barrier to the left, then swung far right on Tibetan side. On 22nd weather broke, got much colder but stayed clear into late afternoon (before 22nd had been wrapped in clouds many days). 

  1st summit bid 18th Oct by Hartl and Rosencrans from C1 got above serac band (at 6620m to 6670m), to c6860m and stopped by less than 50 ft visibility because were in thick cloud; down to BC same day. 

  Same 2 members left BC on 20th for other bid, slept in C1 and left camp on 21st at 2 am and summited at 12:30 pm in snow generally knee-deep snow (sometimes thigh deep and with crust 1/3 of way). Dietrich only other member strong enough to make a summit bid and he got sick in middle of month with rales in one lung. Only members who slept at C1 were Hartl and Rosencrans; Marcienvicius went to cache only, which ment no climbing by him.


expid: PUMO92307
peakid: PUMO
year: 1992
route1: SW Ridge-S Ridge up; E Ridge-SE Face down
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Olivier Roduit
sponsor: Swiss Pumori Expedition 1992
ascent1: 80th,81st
bcdate: 1992-10-12
smtdate: 1992-10-27
smttime: 0740
termdate: 1992-11-02
campsites: BC(12/10,5300m),C1(19/10,6186m),Smt(27,29/10)
accidents: None except kitchen boy's serious altitude sickness
agency: Mera Peak
routememo:
  BC south of Pt 5205m and east of "r" in Khangri Shar Glacier
  C1 at junction of SW and SE Ridge - just behind junction.

  1st summit team bivouacd at summit (had sleeping bags) because left C1 very late and looked for a biv site but first flat spaces was top. Left C1 at 6 am and on top at 7:15, 10-15m below top and actual top at 7:40 am of 27th. Returned to BC since not possible to descend ridge since alpine-style and hadn't fixed rope. Had not planned SE Face-E Ridge descent in advance since hadn't known ridge condition, but this was safest way. 

  2nd party to C1 at 4 am on 29th, on top at 2 pm and returned to BC 7 am.


expid: PUMO92303
peakid: PUMO
year: 1992
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Stephen Adamson
sponsor: Canadian Pumori Expedition
countries: UK, USA
bcdate: 1992-10-03
smtdate: 1992-10-16
termdate: 1992-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 6850m due to bad weather and lack of time
campsites: BC(03/10,5310m),C1(05/10,5800m),C2(14/10,6250m),xxx(16/10,6850m)
accidents: Isdale mild altitude sickness
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  15th summit bid by 3 members from C2 to col at 6500m & turned back by being in thick clouds and down to BC same day. Up 16th Oct by 2 members and got to 6850m and again visibility so poor couldn't go on and down to BC. 18th Oct 2 members couldn't go as high as col because of altitude problems. 19th Oct other 2 members only 100m above C2 because falling ice seracs were too dangerous. Yaks were arranged for 22nd, so climb finished.

  19th Oct 18 people were on fixed ropes.


expid: PUMO92304
peakid: PUMO
year: 1992
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Anne Christian van Koningsbrugge
sponsor: First Dutch Pumori Expedition 1992
bcdate: 1992-10-03
smtdate: 1992-10-16
termdate: 1992-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6950m due to ice and snow avalanching
campsites: BC(03/10,5350m),C1(04/10,5780m),C2(06/10,6200m),xxx(16-17/10,6950m)
accidents: Nothing serious
achievment: 1st Dutch attempt
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Lake/Gorak Shep
  High point at East Ridge. 

  3 attempts for summit, twice reached Col 1st above and once 100m above C2 and atopped there by avalances. 1st on 16th reached 6950m by 3 members. Much more difficult than expected: ice and snow and on ridge broken crevasse meant climbing overhanging upper lip. Rope fixed mostly between C1 and C2 very steep. 

  2nd summit bid 17th again cloudy weather and heavy seracs; was by same 3 members, reached same maximum altitude although tried different line. 

  3rd summit bid 20th again same 3 members. 1 member hit by ice block on upper arm and turned back at 6500m; other two went 50m higher and then quit because more falling ice blocks.


expid: PUMO92301
peakid: PUMO
year: 1992
route1: SE Face of S Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Christian Fuetterer
sponsor: German Pumori Expedition
bcdate: 1992-09-11
smtdate: 1992-09-11
termdate: 1992-09-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to lack of time
campsites: BC(11/09,5340m),C1(17/09,6000m),xxx(19/09,6200m)
accidents: 2 members grippe only
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site near Gorak Shep Lake
  C1 just below South Ridge 
  High point on South Ridge, at junction of SW and SE Ridge.

  Weather changed daily with snowfall and winds every afternoon. Then Mack and Rumpf got sick with high fever and had to stop climb. Also no more time to catch Lukla flight that had been booked. In meantime had reached 30m below high point on 29th by same two men (Mack had now recovered). Route difficult: steep ice and rock climbing; ridge looked not so difficult.


expid: EVER92301
peakid: EVER
year: 1992
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Taiwan
leaders: Gau Ming-Ho
sponsor: Taipei Everest Expedition
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 1992-08-16
smtdate: 1992-10-10
termdate: 1992-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 8200m due to winds
campsites: BC(16/08),ABC(31/08,6400m),C1(05/09,7000m),C2(21/09,7750m),xxx(10/10,8200m)
accidents: Oct 4 small soft snow avalanche from 100m below col carried 1 Sherpa few meters but not hurt
agency: Everest Adventure
routememo:
  ABC at east side of base of North Col
  C1 at North Col
  C2 at North Face.

  Originally had C2 at 7800m on face but too exposed to wind and moved to sheltered spot 50m lower. Carried loads to 8150m on 2 Oct, trying to make camp at 8300m but winds atopped them at 8150m. 10th Oct tried again but could not go above 8200m because of wind and deep soft snow, so collected cache at 8150m and down to C2. 11th Oct tried again but only 8050m because wind and can see only 10m ahead because snow swirling in and footprints quickly erased; 20m to ABC - winds continued and on 15th collected goods at C2 and C1 & down to ABC. 17th to Rongbuk monastery BC. Climb finished.


expid: EVER92304
peakid: EVER
year: 1992
route1: N Col-N Ridge-N Face (Great Couloir)
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Aldo Verzaroli
countries: Italy
bcdate: 1992-08-24
smtdate: 1992-09-27
termdate: 1992-10-06
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to terrible winds
accidents: None except Verzaroli abcessed tooth at end
agency: Trekking International
campsites:
  RongbukBC(24/08,5000m),BC(26/08,5200m),ABC(01/09,6400m),C1(09/09,7000m),C2(21/09,7770m),xxx(27/09,8100m)

routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C2 at North Ridge
  High point at North Face in traverse from North Ridge.

  No C3: tried to go to top from C2 but bad snow at 7900m and decided to put a camp at 8300m but no one could reach this altitude. From C2 on 27 Sept by Fuster, who reached 8100m and turned back with cold feet and bad snow conditions (hard cover on powdered snow) and lost too much energy and returned to ABC. 1st Oct Sala, Verzaroli and Fuster in C2 to go next day to make C3 at 8300m, but winds so strong could not go as high as 7900m and back to ABC. Stayed in ABC, tried again: same 3 got to C2, but tent broken and not possible to put another tent, so back to 7650m where Taiwanese had camp, more sheltered from wind and or Taiwanese Sherpa helped put up tent here. Stormy night and on 10th down to ABC while Giabiati stayed at this camp at 7650m; he went up on 10th to C2 to retrieve gear only.

  Climbing route was from east side of col to col, up N Ridge to C2 & then across N Face towards Great Couloir.


expid: EVER92302
peakid: EVER
year: 1992
route1: N Face-N Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Augusto Zanotti
bcdate: 1992-08-18
smtdate: 1992-09-17
termdate: 1992-09-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due bad weather and lack of time
campsites: BC(18/08,4985m),ABC(25/08),C1(5670m),C2(6220m),C3(6600m),C4(17/09,7600m),xxx(21/09,7600m)
accidents: Nardi altitude sickness at ABC (left expedition Sept 3); nothing else
agency: Unknown
routememo:
  C1 as same as Americans
  C2 as same as Americans
  C3 as same as Americans
  C4 as same as Americans by Savoldelli and Poloni.

  Did not attempt W Ridge because of avalanching. Used same route as Americans and had C1, C2 and C3 in place. Tried to go into couloir but deep unstable snow. 20th Sept Dalla Longa and Birolini made 1st summit bid from C3; got to 7600m but winds too strong and down to C3. 2nd summit bid from C3 on 21st by Carminati and Rota; got to C4, spent the night, during which wind got very strong and down to ABC on 22nd. Yaks arriving at ABC on 25th so no more attempts. Could probably have gotton to top if leader hadn't had to get home 1st Oct.


expid: EVER92305
peakid: EVER
year: 1992
route1: N Face-N Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Douglas Hansen
sponsor: Utahns on Everest
bcdate: 1992-08-29
smtdate: 1992-09-30
termdate: 1992-10-11
termnote: Abandoned at 7610m due to dangerous snow conditions
accidents: Hansen left BC without climbing because altitude sickness (used Gamov bag)
agency: Kunga
campsites:
  BC(29/08,4980m),ABC(03/09,5575m),C1(05/09,5670m),C2(06/09,6220m),C3(18/09,6600m),Dep(20/09,7400m),C4(29/09,7610m),xxx(30/09,7610m)

routememo:
  Never attempted Great Couloir because snow conditions too dangerous with avalanches, avalanching to west of C2. First camps put in fairly rapid order - made cache at 7400m on way to making C4; winds from west stopped advance that day so dumped loads and retreated to C2 (Smith, Lhakpa and Tshering Sherpa made cache). About a week later summit push from ABC by Bishop, Smith, Lhakpa and Tshering to C2 and on to C3 (Chuntz had left expedition as summit party started up due to intestinal problems). Left C3; at 7200m Bishop and Lhakpa (because Bishop too slow and had bad cough) turned back; left oxygen at cache and went up to 7600m, where found abandoned Italian (W Ridge) tent partly ruined and zippers didn't work. Spent sleepless night and next morning decided didn't have enough strength to go on. Now too late to make another bid before yaks arrived. Also Sherpas had been promised only one summit push by them and Bishop's health not very good.


expid: EVER92311
peakid: EVER
year: 1992
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Lithuania
leaders: Alex Bertulis
sponsor: First International Lithuanian Mt. Everest Expedition
countries: Canada, Latvia, USA
bcdate: 1992-09-11
smtdate: 1992-10-02
termdate: 1992-10-16
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to wind
agency: Sherpa High Ambitions
campsites:
  BC(11/09),C1(15/09,5300m),C2(16/09,5800m),C3(17/09,6500m),C4(19/09,7070m),C5(24/09,7750m),xxx(02-13/10,8000m)

routememo:
  ABC at bottom of slope on east side of Col
  C4  at North Col
  C5  on North Face near ridge.

  8000m reached by several teams from C4 and defeated by wind:

  1. Vitkuaskas, Pundzius, Usas & Simutis - 2 Oct.
  2. Boiars alone - 4 Oct.
  3. Saduikas, Simutis & Usas - 9 Oct.
  4. Skirmantas, Navickas, Bajoriene & Pundziuviene - 11 Oct.
  5. Vitkauskas, Saduikis & Boiars - 13 Oct.

accidents:
  1 member altitude sickness but later went to C3; Allinson altitude sickness; Bertulis severe chest pains at Rongbuk on descent from ABC


expid: MAKA92302
peakid: MAKA
year: 1992
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Annie Beghin
sponsor: French Makalu Expedition
bcdate: 1992-09-05
smtdate: 1992-09-20
termdate: 1992-10-04
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to deep snow and climbers exhausted
campsites: BC(05/09,5300m),C1(07/09,6000m),C2(12/09,6400m),C3(20/09,7400m),xxx(20,23/09,7400m)
accidents: None
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  C1 at West Col
  C2 on SE Ridge.

  Fixed ropes with Japanese and climbed quickly. Wanted to take Messner route above Makalu couloir but very difficult ice and rocks; French ridge not possible because of much snow. Her Sherpa made camps and fixed ropes A. Beghin at C2 23 Sep. 1st attempt for top at C3 on 29th but not slept there. Climbed with Japanese. She did not actually try for top from C3 because of deep snow above. Also very cold. Beghin decided 1 Oct to stop her climbing and Caillat on 2nd. Beghin tired and not well.


expid: MAKA92301
peakid: MAKA
year: 1992
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Sadao Okada
sponsor: Snow Leopard Makalu Expedition
bcdate: 1992-08-31
smtdate: 1992-10-02
termdate: 1992-10-04
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(31/08,5300m),C1(10/09,6000m),C2(15/09,6400m),C3(22/09,7400m),C4(28/09,7900m),xxx(02/10,8300m)
accidents: None
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at high site
  C3 at Makalu La
  C4 at plateau.

  1st summit attempt 1st Oct from C4 and reached 8200m by Muraguchi & Ang Sarki; defeated by deep snow and down to C3. 2nd attempt 2nd Oct by Ishikawa and Yamamoto with Ang Kami and Phurba Gyalzen; reached 8300m and again stopped by deep snow so to C4 that day, BC next day. Climb finished because of deep snow.


expid: MAK292302
peakid: MAK2
year: 1992
route1: S Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Shuichi Kaneko
sponsor: Makalu II Expedition of Japan
ascent1: 22nd
bcdate: 1992-09-06
smtdate: 1992-09-25
smttime: 0720
termdate: 1992-09-28
campsites: BC(06/09,5200m),C1(09/09,6000m),C2(12/09,6400m),C3(24/09,7400m),Smt(25/09)
accidents: One Sherpa kitchen boy altitude sickness at BC and left expedition
agency: Trans Himalayan Trekking (THT)
routememo:
  BC slightly below normal route
  C2 at Chago Glacier's moraine
  C3 at Makalu La.

  Tried to make C3 on 13th Sept but unable to do so because too much snow and very tired. Left loads at 7200m and down to C1 that day. There rested at BC and left BC again on 22nd for C1 and on up. Not difficult technically but altitude made climb slow. Japanese Makalu I had already route when this team arrived. On 25th left C4 at 4:40 am, on top at 7:20 am and back to C3 at 8:30 pm and slept in C2. Went quickly to top because Spaniards already on top on Makalu II one day before. Some difficulty with knife-edge ridge (soft snow, not deep) but Spaniards had made trail.


expid: MAK292303
peakid: MAK2
year: 1992
route1: S Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Sandy Allan
sponsor: 1992 International Makalu II Expedition (OTT)
countries: Argentina, USA
bcdate: 1992-10-28
smtdate: 1992-11-07
termdate: 1992-11-11
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to various illnesses, lack of strength and time
campsites: BC(28/10,5200m),C1(30/10,5600m),C2(31/10,6300m),Biv(07/11,7200m),xxx
accidents: J. Kaplan cerebral edema; W. Kaplan injured on walk in
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC where glaciers meet (normal Makalu BC)
  High point at top of glacier.

  Used Japanese fixed ropes. On 7th Nov Allan, J. Kaplan & sirdar biv at 7200m intending to try for summit on next day. Was very windy on 7th, perfect day on 8th but now Kaplan was seriously ill from altitude & so had to go down. Kaplan was only client who had been fit enough to try for top. Others had altitude problems, diarrhea & general fitness problems. "Whole thing was a farce - a real cowboy affair." Helft not allowed to climb by HMG since he has Argentinian passport & no endorsement by American Alpine Club. Expedition was a commercial "rip-off" & it collapsed because of too little time, altitude & others sickness & clients incompetence. Clients were told climb was "easy." They were odd short plus windy weather.

  Mitchell couldn't make it up mountain but told by OTT he could.

  Original leader & promoter, Mark Miller was killed in PIA crash 28th Sept coming to Kathmandu. His organizing company then hastily hired Allan & Smith to take over leadership. They came to Nepal after group, arrived at BC a day after it was established & "led from the rear."


  Mitchell - 7 Nov 92

  Mitchell with main group arrived on 2nd day of walking very weak from illness in KTM on 3rd day of walk in 12 Oct carried to Tumlingtar and flew out 13th to KTM (illness was bad reaction to anti-malarial pill, said CIWEC clinic). On 24th Oct went by helicopter to Tashigaon with 1 Sherpa from KTM. On 25th am snowing heavily and porter unable to cross Shipton Pass and Sherpa and Mitchell not well equipped and 26th back to Tashigaon. 29th helicopter to take out sick Kaplan from BC and Kaplan and Mitchell chatted - and Mitchell realized no point in trying to go on to BC and join team. So same day Mitchell party trekked to Tumlingtar and flew to KTM on 4 Nov.

  Mitchell leaves KTM 8 or 10 Nov.

  Will return to Nepal for Everest N. Arrive KTM 22 August for acclimatization 10 day trek. Out There Trekking in UK, Himalayan Expeditions North Col route.


expid: MAKA92303
peakid: MAKA
year: 1992
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Karl Kobler
sponsor: Swiss Makalu Expedition
countries: Liechtenstein
bcdate: 1992-09-09
smtdate: 1992-09-29
termdate: 1992-10-19
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to deep snow and strong winds
campsites: BC(09/09,5400m),C1(14/09,6100m),C2(15/09,6600m),C3(22/09,7400m),C4(28/09,7900m),xxx(29/09,8100m)
accidents: None, except 1 Sherpa altitude sickness
agency: Dhaulagiri Trek House
routememo:
  29th left C4 for summit at 6:00 am, but deep snow turned back to rest; fixed one rope; down to BC for 2 days rest. 3rd Oct to C2; 4th to C3; 6th to C4 to bring down camp which found broken or 1 tent blown away and in descent on avalanche (slab avalanche) carried down 2m, not hurt. 

  Very good collaboration with Japanese on Makalu I and Spaniards on Makalu II.


expid: BARU92302
peakid: BARU
year: 1992
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Hannes Neuwirth
sponsor: DAV Summit Club Baruntse Expedition
ascent1: 26th
countries: Austria
bcdate: 1992-10-04
smtdate: 1992-10-15
smttime: 1230
termdate: 1992-10-19
campsites: BC(04/10,5400m),C1(08/10,6130m),C2(09/10,6650m),Smt(15/10)
accidents: Kitchen boy altitude sickness (cured with pressure bag)
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC as planned
  C1 at West Col
  C2 on SE Ridge.

  15 Oct 6 am 2 members and 3 Sherpas to make last fixed ropes and most other members came a little later and met very deep snow and finally 12:30 pm to 2:30 pm on top in cloudy and windy but not very cold weather.


expid: BARU92301
peakid: BARU
year: 1992
route1: SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Michel Zalio
sponsor: Baruntse 1992
ascent1: 25th
bcdate: 1992-10-03
smtdate: 1992-10-11
termdate: 1992-10-15
campsites: BC(03/10,5400m),C1(05/10,6100m),C2(07/10,6600m),Smt(11/10)
accidents: Jacques Despaln's mild sickness (cured with pressure bag); nothing else
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Fixed 200m rope before C1 at West Col. Germans fixed ridge but French used only 50m of their ropes. 2nd summit party tried twice for top twice, 2nd time went 100m only above C2 with Zalio also but fresh snow and wind stopped them. Climb slightly difficult above C2: big mushroom and steep. Team from BC then returned via Ampha Laptsa which was terribly hard for porters but beautiful way.


expid: MAK292301
peakid: MAK2
year: 1992
route1: S Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Josa Ramon Aguirre
sponsor: Grierri Kangchungtse Expedition
ascent1: 21st
bcdate: 1992-09-01
smtdate: 1992-09-24
smttime: 1130
termdate: 1992-10-04
campsites: BC(01/09,5550m),C1(06/09,6100m),C2(09/09,6900m),C3(23/09,7400m),Smt(24/09)
accidents: 1 member slightly frostbitten toe
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at higher site near glaciers' junction (some expedition's ABC)
  C3 at Makalu La.

  Summit party left C3 7 am for top and on top 11:30 am on ridge of very soft snow which made ascent difficult; slept in C3. Others for top 28th Sept from BC to C2, but very windy and decided to stop attack.


expid: CHAM92301
peakid: CHAM
year: 1992
route1: N Face-E Ridge-E Summit
nation: France
leaders: Laurent Hallier
sponsor: Chamlang 1992
approach: Hinku Valley->Baruntse BC->West Col->Lower Barun
bcdate: 1992-10-19
smtdate: 1992-10-22
termdate: 1992-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to bad conditions (falling seracs) and lack of strength
othersmts: Mera Peak before Chamlang
campsites: BC(19/10,5800m),xxx(22/10,6400m)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  From BC climbed towards East ridge (NE Ridge of East Summit in Chamlang sketch map), towards "g" of Chamlang on Schneider Khumbu map. Worked three days on North Face to reach ridge. Then stopped because of falling seracs, cold and wind.

  Genereau was not good enough at climbing to go to West Col, so camped below it on West side; this left only two members, no Sherpas to carry 3.5 kg loads. 

  If came again to this route, would be with more climbers.


expid: JANU92301
peakid: JANU
year: 1992
route1: S Ridge (French 1962 rte)
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Hans Rauner
sponsor: Swiss Jannu Expedition
bcdate: 1992-10-11
smtdate: 1992-10-25
termdate: 1992-10-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to snow conditions and wind
campsites: BC(11/10,4500m),C1(18/10,5500m),C2(24/10,6300m),xxx(25/10,6500m)
accidents: None
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Yamatori Glacier (north side of glacier)
  C1 on rock plateau between 2 glacier
  C2 on South Ridge, north of point 6532 on Yoshima Kangch map.

  On ridge was deep snow; 1/2-meter deep powder snow on ridge and could see from high point that more of same snow conditions lay ahead. Also winds coming up and frequent avalanching on east side of ridge.


expid: MAKA92304
peakid: MAKA
year: 1992
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Juan Jose Rodriguez
sponsor: Spanish Makalu 1992
countries: Argentina
bcdate: 1992-09-24
smtdate: 1992-10-07
termdate: 1992-10-25
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to winds
campsites: BC(24/09,5600m),C1(28/09,6000m),C2(03/10,6500m),C3(07/10,7400m),xxx(07/10,7400m)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at high Chago Glacier BC
  C3 at Makalu La
  High point at C2 site.

  Not possible to climb Kukuczka route because too dangerous from avalanches, so went to normal route. C3 pitched by Sherpa but did not occupy it. No members ever reached C3 because of wind. All members only to C2. Very cold, strong winds (1 tent in C1 & 3 tents in C2 torn apart by winds).


expid: EVER92309
peakid: EVER
year: 1992
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Bernard Muller
sponsor: Stages and Expeditions to Everest
ascent1: 145
countries: Belgium, Luxembourg
bcdate: 1992-09-06
smtdate: 1992-10-01
smttime: 1300
termdate: 1992-10-05
campsites: BC(06/09,5350m),C1(09/09,6100m),C2(12/09,6400m),C3(15/09,7300m),C4(30/09,7900m),Smt(01/10)
accidents: Rouit edema at BC (evacuated by helicopter)
achievment: 1st Luxembourger to summit
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  C4 deposit made by 25th Sept but not occupied before 30th because of acclimatization. 1st Oct summit bid from C4 by Berger, De La Ferriere and Muller. Berger to top, but De La Ferriere was without oxygen and too difficult and Muller returned with her (his wife); all 3 in C4 that night. Hubert arrived at BC very late and tried for summit on 9th Oct from C4 and stopped 8100-8200m because intestinal problem.


  Letter to Miss Hawley - 15 Oct 1992
  From Berger Eugene

  I was member of Bernard Muller's expedition. A first attempt was started from C2 on Sept 26 but because of strong wind we (Bernard Muller, De La Ferriere + Ang Phurba) went back to BC.

  After two days of rest we started again on 29 Sept (BC -> C2). 30 Sept (C2 -> C4) we reached C4 at 16 hours approximately.

  On 1st of October I started together with Basque climber Jesus Extaniz (?) at 1 hour 30 in the morning. Bernard Muller, De La Ferriere and Ang Phurba started 1/2 hour later.

  I had the same ryhme as the Basque climber but in the following I was waiting two times 1 hour (more more?) for my team members who were slowly because Lawrence didn't use oxygen. I had French oxygen but it causes some problems, mask freezing, bottle screw was unfit. Meanwhile the Basque climber went to top (9-10 am) I was waiting at about 8700m (ridge below south summit) the last time for my team members. There we decided that I would continue alone, the others went a little higher but turned back soon. Just below south summit I met Basque climber who came down from summit. I reached south summit at 11:29 am. The final ridge was very steep and unfortunately I damaged my balloon (oxygen) with my ice-axe any many oxygen was going out of the balloon not in my mask but in the air. So the last 100 meters were really hard for me, really the hardest thing I ever did in the mountain. I reached top on 1:45 pm exactly. On the top I saw the Italian "tripod," I took some photos (you find hereby). The Basque flag was also on the "tripod."

  After 5-10 minutes I went back. The descent without oxygen from the top was really hard and I could reach south col at 17:30 just before darkness, where I met my team members again.

  2 October I went back to BC.


expid: EVER92314
peakid: EVER
year: 1992
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Iman Gurung
sponsor: Twenty Hours Everest Expedition
bcdate: 1992-10-04
smtdate: 1992-10-07
termdate: 1992-10-10
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to sickness of member
othersmts: Climbed Xixabangma
campsites: BC(04/10,5300m),C2(lateSep-06/10,6500m),xxx(07/10,7300m)
accidents: Iman Gurung sick (flu?)
agency: Mandala Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Iman Gurung arrived at BC - Mani Lal Gurung and Nuru Thapa made.

  Had been on Xixapangma with French expedition immediately before going to Everest, spent 4 nights in KTM (2 of them waiting for Lukla flight). When Iman arrived at BC, Mani Lal Gurung (from some village in Gorkha district called Lhaprak) had made C2 about a week before and put there food and cooking supplies. Iman started up from BC at 5 pm 7th reached C3 at 10:45 pm on 7th - had caught cold on 5th and had slight fever; at 6500m and very difficult with running nose and sore throat and painful coughing. Stopped at C3 7300m 20 minutes and then down (with Mani Lal from C2) and arrived BC 3 am. 7th was good moonlight and good time for summit bid. Stayed BC 2 days only with fever and coughing so left mountain. Iman never slept in C2 or any other above BC.

  Iman paid for 2 HA men and 3 BC staff; $1000 royalty (10% of normal) and shared salary of Ukranians' liaison officier and funds from French.
   
  Wants to try speed climb again but not to pay so much, so go with others expedition.

  2nd HA man=Nun Thapa who went to BC, got sick, went to Pheriche and died there.


expid: EVER92308
peakid: EVER
year: 1992
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Michel Vincent
sponsor: French International Everest Expedition
ascent1: 148,151
countries: Canada, Mexico, Nepal, Spain, USA
bcdate: 1992-09-04
smtdate: 1992-10-07
smttime: 0930
campsites: BC(04/09),C1(08/09,6100m),C2(11/09,6400m),C3(14/09,7300m),C4(24/09,7900m),Smt(07,09/10)
accidents: 1 member serious altitude sickness; nothing else
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  1st summit bid was by Pasang Lhamu (with Babu Tshering, Sange) on 25th.

  2nd bid by her again with her 3 Sherpas plus Vincent, Arvis & Maurus, Powers & Sesma on 26th; Pasang's party reached 8400m and French to 8400m and all back because of wind. 

  3rd summit bid on 3rd Oct by Vincent for half an hour, had trouble with headlamp & it was windy. 

  7th Oct Vincent (alone from C2) left C4 at midnight alone entirely and on top at 9:30 am (slow beause tired) and down to Col for the night. 

  5th bid on 9th by Darsney only from this team; left col 1 am and on top after 11 hrs (also tired).

  Pasang Lhamu had an entirely separate party: her own tents, food, oxygen, etc and her own team of 3 climbing Sherpas, plus her husband Sonam in support to C2. All of these climbers also used oxgyen at and above South Col. She left mountain after her attempts 25th and 26th because tired (and according to her brother-in-Law, because Sonam had to return to his trekking business in Kathmandu).


expid: EVER92307
peakid: EVER
year: 1992
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Sergio Fitch Watkins, Wally Berg
sponsor: Everest International Expedition 1992
ascent1: 149
countries: Mexico, Peru
bcdate: 1992-09-02
smtdate: 1992-10-09
smttime: 0730
termdate: 1992-10-13
campsites: BC(02/09,5350m),C1(10/09,6100m),C2(13/09,6100m),C3(18/09,7300m),C4(03/10,7900m),Smt(09/10)
accidents: Pasang Kazi fell below summit for 200m, self-arrested, broke ribs only
achievment: 1st Peruvian to top
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  1st summit bid planned for 4th Oct by 2 members who 1st occupied C4, but they didn't leave tent that day because of wind and on 5th were now too tired and down. 

  Next summit party arrived at C4 on 8th and up the 9th except Johnson, who did not feel like going up. Delean went to 8300m & Brad Bull to 8700m and gave up because Delean tired and Bull too slow; Tashi stayed with Bull, so also did not summit. All others from C4 reached top as follows: Pasang Kazi 7:30 am; De La Parro 7:35; Apa (his 4th ascent) 8:00 & Berg with him; Ortega 9 am. No other summit bids.

  Fitch Watkins and Hoffman (his loyal client) hatched the plan to climb Everest as one of the Hoffman's 7 summits and got the permit in 1990 and Fitch Watkins hired Berg to guide the mountain; Ortega was also hired to guide climbing through never on Everest before. $17,000 each paid by all members except Fitch Watkins, Berg and Ortega. When team got to BC, it turned out promised supplies included only 6 climbing Sherpas (instead of 9), small BC staff and facilities, fewer oxygen bottles, etc (Fitch Watkins had built new house); Fitch Watkins was confronted by team late Sept when team should have been summiting but came down to BC for confrontation. Sergio was at BC because didn't like to go through Icefall; confrontation one afternoon and he disappeared from BC at 6:00 am, leaving with Elias who was tired and homesick.


expid: EVER92306
peakid: EVER
year: 1992
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Ralf Dujmovits
sponsor: Amical Alpin Everest Expedition 1992
ascent1: 147
countries: Austria, Switzerland
bcdate: 1992-09-01
smtdate: 1992-10-04
smttime: 0907
termdate: 1992-10-10
campsites: BC(01/09),C1(05/09,6100m),C2(08/09,6500m),C3(13/09,7300m),C4(23/09,7900m),Smt(04/10)
accidents: None
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  25th Sept 10 people from 3 expeditions reached S Summit (22 left S Col from 3 expeditions) and 5 of the 10 got frostbite or other dangers (eye and knee). This was this expedition's 1st summit bid by 7 members, Nima Temba & Dawa Tashi and all reached at best 8400m before turning back. Dacher not well, Djumovits reacting badly to anti-frostbite drug, strong wind, waiting for very slow Spanish to fix ropes to and up Hillary Step.

  27th 3 members & Sonam Tshering intended to leave C4 but too much wind and down that day.

  3rd Oct attempt planned by Dujmovits, Etschmayer, Pinn, Ratteit, Reichen, Respondek, Treibel, Dawa Tashi & Sonam Tshering from C4 but not above C4 on 3rd and slept in C4. On 4th all down except Djumovits and Sonam Tshering who went to top.

  Last people hoping for another summit bid gave up on 6th because of weather.


  Ministry of Tourism - 8 Oct 1992

  Dujmovits and Sonam Tshering on 4 Oct left Col 2:45, on top 9:07 am in bad weather, on 25 minutes on top, 4:30 pm at C2.

  Sonam's 4th ascent Everest; Dacher to 8400m without oxygen.


  Letter to Miss Hawley - 8 Oct 1992 from Ralf Dujmovits

  After having seen the 25th of Sept already up to 8500m without oxygen I spent some rest days in BC. (My stomach had not accepted a "Adalai", our doctor gave me at 8400m for a frozen food too).

  The 2nd of October me and some of my members went up again to C2 (6500m). The 3rd about twenty French and Spanish and three of my members climbed from C3 to South Col. Also me and two of my group climbed from C2 to South Col. On arrival it was already very windy, so spent a horrible stormy night (without oxygen). Only three Spanish Juan Thomas, Pedro Jose Tous and Mikel Reparez started and reached later the summit.

  We spent the whole day on South Col (using from time to time oxygen). The next stormy night started. At 2:45 together with Sonam Tshering, our Sirdar (3 times summit), I started from South Col. It was still more stormy than the night before, but less cold (-24 degree C). After 2-1/2 hours we reached the South East Ridge by changing the guide role steadily. At 8:00 reached the South Summit, Sonam 10 minutes later. It was terribly stormy. 500m long "snow-flags" were blown from ridge into the sky.

  9:00 clock me and 10 minutes later Sonam reached the summit. From the new Italian and Tsering Tripole/ took off a Sashe flag. I took some pictures of Sonam and summit. Sonam of me also.

  At 12:30 after a difficult descent in the incoming storm we were bad in South Col, at 1600 o'clock in C2.

  After my calculation after 13 years I was the 14th German on summit. The 13th German was Schmatz. For Sonam Tshering, it was the fourth climb to summit of Everest.

  All other climbers of my team have abandoned their attempts and we finished the expedition.

  Yesterday at 9:30 Michel Vincent, leader of French-International expedition, had reached summit alone. Up to now (8 Oct, 6:30 am, -12 degrees inside but cold fingers for writing) we have received no other, no more information about him.


expid: EVER92310
peakid: EVER
year: 1992
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Agostino Da Polenza
sponsor: Mountain Equipe Expedition to Everest
ascent1: 141-143
countries: France, UK
bcdate: 1992-09-07
smtdate: 1992-09-28
smttime: 1400
termdate: 1992-10-01
campsites: BC(07/09,5350m),C1(09/09,6000m),C2(10/09,6350m),C3(20/09,7250m),C4(27/09,7900m),Smt(28-30/09)
accidents: Moro cerebral edema 7600m on Sep 22
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  C2 slightly lower than most others
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Stayed a few days at Pyramid's at Lobuche (5050m) for physiological tests and then to BC. We went upwards to S Col, "fixed the rope" and put deposit at col on 22nd but slept there on 27th only. On 28th 1st attempt with 4 Sherpas and 7 members with more than 15 kg of scientific work (altitude measurements) of tripod, satellite recorder, etc. Left col at 3:30 am ("too late") and of these S Summit reached by 3 Sherpas and 5 members. Two Sherpas ran out of oxygen at that altitude [and Chamoux without oxygen] turned back because of getting late. 4 members and 1 Sherpa on top at 2 pm and back to C4. 29th Chamoux with Santin left S Col and reached top, taking along equipment left by others at S Summit, left C3 at 3 am and on top 10 am; spent more than 2 hrs fixing equipment and contacting Chinese in Tibet and Italians at Lobuche and they beamed light from Tibet and laser from Nepal, contacting satellite, etc. to measure altitude. 30th Blanc and Vesga left Col and on top.

  Had to pay 2nd royalty to change route from S Pillar.


expid: EVER92313
peakid: EVER
year: 1992
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Michel Pelle
sponsor: Terres d'Adventure Everest 1992
ascent1: 150
countries: Portugal, Switzerland
bcdate: 1992-08-27
smtdate: 1992-10-09
termdate: 1992-10-11
campsites: BC(27/08),C1(01/09,6100m),C2(12/09,6400m),C3(16/09,7300m),C4(24/09,7900m),Smt(09/10)
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  1st summit attempt on 25th Sept by 2 members who reached S Summit and stopped by wind. 2nd bid from col 27th aborted by wind, except Tardivel who went up alone & stopped at S Summit to C2 in 4-5 hrs, skiing below col between S Pillar & Genveva Spur. 3rd bid on 3rd Oct when stayed 2 nights at col; on 4th 2 members reached 8100m & quit because of wind. 9th Oct finally had success; 1 member without oxygen reached 8600m, realized he was too slow & gave up.


  Batard - 8 Oct 92

  Batard arrived 12 Sept BC and started up on 16 Sept to C2. 17 & 18 Sept C2. 19th to C3 and down to BC to rest (C4 already there; stayed 15 mins). In BC 20-23rd to C2, 24th to C3. 25th to 7500m, then down because saw summiters going very slowly and not now good and (on this down Pasang deposited supplies at South Summit); Batard BC. 28th 5:00 am from BC and in 10 hours at Col but many clouds so stopped at Col. 29th started up at 5:30 am but "was not so well in my head" because believed wind starting when it in fact was not windy. Reached 8300m quickly but then felt cold and returned to C4 to sleep and at noon down to Lobuche to meet Bruno and Jean-Michel. Stayed at Lobuche 2 days and on 1st Oct to C2. 2nd Oct reached Col and really strong wind; slept at Col. Now on 3rd Batard and Asselin and Gallet amongst 40 people at Col; only Spanish took a risk and went to top while Batard and 2 French to BC: climb finished for them because tired "and Oct is the time for wind" - this was enough. To sleep on summit, Batard needed good weather. Had now abandoned Everest and wants to do difficult technical route alone on South Face Nuptse.


  Batard - 1 Sept 92

  I want to be the 1st man to sleep in highest point on earth. Medical experts say dangerous to sleep there without oxygen but Batard says: "No, it is not dangerous for me." Danger is on top early because Asselin and Gallet take pix of him there and then they descend - arrive top 3:00-4:00 pm and then Asselin and Gallet to South Col to wait for Batard. Best time to try for top is full moon time (11 Oct).

  Not to compete with Iman Singh Gurung in his bid to scale Everest in 20 hours unless Gallet and Asselin are sick and cannot ascend with Batard, in which case Batard perhaps goes up quickly.

  Iman can succeed in 20 hours if gets good acclimatization but not because exhausted on Xixa.

  Return KTM as soon as possible.

accidents:
  Jacquet pneumonia; Aubertin great pain in knees; Ang Gyalzen fell into river after leaving BC for home village


expid: EVER92303
peakid: EVER
year: 1992
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Pedro Tous
sponsor: 3 Spanish Groups of Friends to Everest
ascent1: 140,144,146
bcdate: 1992-08-23
smtdate: 1992-09-25
smttime: 1500
termdate: 1992-10-04
campsites: BC(23/08,5350m),C1(01/09,6000m),C2(05/09,6400m),C3(14/09,7300m),C4(24/09,7900m),Smt(25/09,01,03/10)
achievment: 1st brothers to summit
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  C4 at South Col.

  On 25th 4 summiters and Ang Rita left C4 1:30 am and reached S Summit 12:00 in little wind; had to open the way in not very deep snow as first to try for summit. 28 people left C4, but only 8 members of all expeditions and 2 Sherpas reached S Summit (Pasang Lhamu was in group of 28 and reached only 8300-8400m). Ang Rita turned back at S Summit because of wind and Hillary Step dangerous. 2 French reached Hillary Step and only 4 people to top, which reached at 3 pm in strong wind, but could stand up - found nothing on top. Was clear weather at high altitudes. Returned to C4 at 8 pm. Descending on 26th Felix could not see at all well.

  Bereziartua arrived BC 26th Sept from Cho Oyu. Left S Col 2 am with 2 French, including woman, 1 French Sherpa and 1 Lux, but 1 went faster and top reached 8:50 am (at time Lux arrived S Summit). Lux on top 10:00+ am; French and their Sherpa 8600m only.

  * order on top: 
    25 Set - Eguillor and Fernandez; Alberto and Felix Inurrategi 10 minutes later.
     1 Oct - Bereziartua at 8:50 am; Luxembourger from Muller expedition 1:00 pm.
     3 Oct - Tomas, Reparaz and Tous together at 12:10 pm


  Tous - 12 Oct:

  Ang Rita used oxygen in night of 24th in C4 because had stomach trouble, but did not use next day above C4. On 25th did not want to go to top, but was told by Spaniard you are Sherpa and he tried for top, but stopped at South Summit.


  Egusiktza - 28 Sept

  Pixti and Fernandez badly frostbitten toes and F pneumonia also - by helicopter to KTM today.

  Very late on Friday - Ang Rita back at South top not on summit; brothers without oxygen and others with oxygen on top 3:10 pm; brothers quickly down others slowly and at 8700m biv at 6:00 pm and down next am to Col. Juan Tomas doctor diagnosed pneumonia. All to BC Sunday.

  Brothers to South Col after dark Friday; Alberto tripped there and pulled knee ligament.

accidents:
  Felix retinal hemorrhage? from day after summit; 2 members frostbitten toes and fingers (hospitalized in Spain)


expid: EVER92312
peakid: EVER
year: 1992
route1: SW Face
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Mikhail Turkevich
sponsor: French-Russian-Ukrainian Everest S Face 1992 Autumn
countries: France, USSR
bcdate: 1992-09-19
smtdate: 1992-10-19
termdate: 1992-10-23
termnote: Abandoned at 8750m due to winds and cold (even at BC)
accidents: Some minor frostbite, edema/pneumonia
agency: Mustang
campsites:
  BC(19/09,5450m),C1(24/09,6100m),C2(25/09,6400m),C3(27/09,7200m),C4(03/10,7900m),C5(16/10,8100m),C6(17/10,8300m),xxx(19/10,8750m)

routememo:
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on SW Face (same as Bonington)
  C4 on SW Face (same as Japanese)
  C5 on SW Face (start of Bonington couloir)
  C6 on SW Face above rock band (same as Bonington and Japanese 1991).

  After C4 established, fixed ropes directly towards top to make new route. Reached 8000m at bottom of rock band, then down to consider situation. Considering lack of good acclimatization, no Sherpas to carry loads, would too long to open new route so decided on 7th Oct to abandon plans for new route and following Bonington route. 18th Oct Gonchar, Pastukh & Svergun reached 8500m; Gonchar got frostbite fingers and Pastukh infection and down to C2 while Svergun stayed at C4. 19th Oct Svergun to S Summit in dark with no watch and headlamp batteries dead; waited for moon to rise but was time of new moon at place where he found ropes but where he was doesn't know. Started freezing in very cold night; very dark night and very steep wall, but he had no new ropes of his own. Then after 3-4 hrs wait very strong wind came up and he decided to descend and reached C4 at 4 am. Now he couldn't breathe (pul. edema?) and found very big oxygen bottle, took oxygen from it without gear, descended with it on rope, taking oxygen from it occasionally and reached C4 20th about noon. Left C4 and again down that aft/eve and arrived at C2 4 am of 21st again with his oxygen bottle sliding before him, helping him to avoid crevasse as well as continuing to supplying occasional oxygen and on 21st afternoon left C2 and arrived at BC at 9 am. Had used expedition's own oxygen and mask in C2 and to BC with others. When arrived at BC doctor heard lungs and thought now pneumonia and spent that night oxygen at BC.

  Pelle's expedition had left tent and supplies at S Col and thought Svergun might go to col. Turkevich and Obichod had gone to this col camp for 2 nights in worst wind. Turkevich had even seen and been in broken tent. Made no attempt on summit because winds made this impossible.

  2 more attempts for top via face but both stopped by winds at C4 on 21 & 24th; finally on 25th brought down C4 & C3 gear.

  Profit - Lhotse S Face more difficult than Everest SW Face by Bonington route; but if making direct route up Everest face to summit, forcing rock band 6400m high then Everest SW Face more difficult.
               
  Profit - 5 Nov 92: Svergun still says he doesn't know his highest point. There was a big wall and a number of fixed ropes, but it was a dark night and he confused by lack of oxygen. It is not possible to climb in the S Summit gully and is necessary to climb to left or right of it. Perhaps he went to left and behind S Summit.


expid: AMAD92401
peakid: AMAD
year: 1992
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Franco Dellatorre
sponsor: Swiss Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 113
bcdate: 1992-11-21
smtdate: 1992-12-01
termdate: 1992-12-07
campsites: BC(21/11,4500m),C1(30/11,6000m),Smt(01/12)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC same as all others (normal site)
  C1 on SW Ridge.

  At C1 actually used Korean tent from outumn, well-stocked with French food; also at 6300m another French-stocked tent. Dellatore, Demarchi and Giovanoli to C1 on 30th, having waited for official winter season to start on 1st Dec. 

  On 1st both [Dellatore and Giovanoli] left C1 at 6 am. Giovanoli retreated at 100m above C1 "in no good condition" and stayed in C1 [while Dellatore to top]; both to BC on 2nd. 

  Demarchi from C1 on 3 Dec with Dawa Tamang, a friend, and reached 6300m and back to BC because strong wind. 

  Giovanoli on 5th from BC 8 am and at 8 pm reached 6200m biv. 6th 100m up, wind and cold and back to BC at 3 pm. 

  Other two to 5700m only: "not good condition." 6th decided to stop. Weather not so good and too many people crowded onto ridge (10-15 people this day on ridge).


expid: CHOY92401
peakid: CHOY
year: 1992
route1: W Ridge-W Face from S
nation: Spain
leaders: Manuel Gonzalez Diaz
sponsor: 1993 Cho Oyu San Pedro Alcantara
ascent1: 114,115
countries: Argentina, Switzerland
bcdate: 1993-01-13
smtdate: 1993-02-08
termdate: 1993-02-15
campsites: BC(13/01,5070m),C1(20/01,5450m),C2(26/01,5850m),C3(30/01,6350m),C4(07/02,7400m),Smt(08,10/02)
accidents: Olaizola confined to BC area by ulcer
achievment: Chapuisat first woman to climb any 8000m peak in winter
agency: Trans Himalayan Trekking (THT)
routememo:
  BC at Lunak (below Kangchung)
  C1 at true Dzangpan
  C2 at base of mountain near U of Schneider map.

  Very low BC because much snow. Climbed Tichy route and reached highest summit, from which is possible to see Everest.


expid: EVER92402
peakid: EVER
year: 1992
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Fernando Garrido
sponsor: Solo Winter Oxygen Everest
bcdate: 1992-12-18
smtdate: 1993-02-03
termdate: 1993-02-07
termnote: Abandoned at 7750m due to lack of strength and of time
campsites: BC(18/12,5350m),C2(27/01,6500m),Biv1(01/02,7300m),Biv2(03/02,7750m),xxx(03/02,7750m)
accidents: Garrido slight pulmonary edema going to BC too fast
achievment: 1st winter solo attempt
agency: Mandala Trekking
routememo:
  Garrido went into icefall 20th Dec to see how route was but was very weak from too fast trek to BC (4 days from KTM/Lukla to BC) and did not reach C1. Went to Pheriche 26th Dec to recover while Iman Gurung, Ang Tshering and Ang Nima repaired icefall route and returned to BC 3-4 Jan. Then 1 week some snowfall, foggy, wind. 15th Jan all 4 men up from BC to make camp at 6500m at normal C2 site with one tent and all loads. Garrido 1-1/2 hours behind 3 Nepalis, who would pitch camp and return to BC while Garrido climbed. But Ang Tshering going fast through icefall even in dangerous places; at 6300m he fell into crevasse slightly hidden by snow (but there were British fixed ropes, but he didn't belay). He fell 150m in crevasse and couldn't be seen and too dangerous to descend into it because of ice overhangs; all survivors to BC. 

  Garrido waited for Ang Tshering relative to come and also to engage another Sherpa to help remove all British equipment at the end. 26th Jan 4 men again up, but route in bad condition and took long time to get through icefall; reached C2 site on 27th and 3 Nepalis down to BC. Garrido went to C3 site 1 Feb, tried for S Col but got only to 7750-7800m, above yellow band and bived there in bad night because placed tent badly; stopped here because not strong enough to go higher. 4 Feb very cloudy and snowfall and decided to go down. These days very cold but not very windy. 4th down to C2. 5th terrible windy day - couldn't move, 6th good weather but arrived not strong enough to go up and decided he needed a week in BC to get stronger and down to BC on 6th. Then decided to give up: too short time left to recover and try again.

  Would like to do solo from north side with no icefall problems. Want to go next winter if Tibet Mountain Assn gives permit. Likes winter with snow very hard and perfect to walk and a little more difficult and more exciting "with no one else around."

  Garrido arrived BC 18 Dec and British left icefall equipment for him (for $4000). Reported to have been sick and gone to Pheriche to recover until early in Jan.


  Neame - 5 Jan 1993

  Handed over by British: icefall route, ladders in Cwm, tent at C3 and ropes to South Col and 3 Sherpas maintaining Icefall.

  Garrido had chest problem but probably at BC or above by now, He said he was prepared to wait until mid-Feb.


expid: AMAD92403
peakid: AMAD
year: 1992
route1: SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Cha Jae-Woo
sponsor: 1992 Korean Winter Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 116,120
bcdate: 1992-11-27
smtdate: 1992-12-07
smttime: 1120
termdate: 1992-12-11
campsites: BC(27/11,4600m),C1(02/12,5800m),C2(04/12,6200m),C3(06/12,6500m),Smt(07,09/12)
accidents: Both summiters very slight frostbite; Baek serious altitude sickness
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  C3 7 am on 7th and on top 11:20 am and down to C2 6 pm. Only Kim to top because others sick from altitude. 

  3 days later only one other member Lee Su-Young well enough for summit; he left C2 8 am, on top at 3 pm and down to C2 at 7:20 pm. 

  7th Baek sick from altitude in C3 and on 8th unable to walk properly. Sonam Tshering, Ang Dawa and Lee Su-Young brought him to C2. On 9th Sherpas took him down to BC that way; was already better when at C1; on 8th at 7 pm while bringing Baek down, dislodged ice which in turn dislodged rock, Baek's feet not being placed properly and others had hard time getting him down safely.


expid: PUMO92401
peakid: PUMO
year: 1992
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Shinji Sasaoka
sponsor: San Shi Sumei Pumori Expedition
bcdate: 1992-12-10
smtdate: 1992-12-25
termdate: 1992-12-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to wide crevasse
campsites: BC(19/12,5350m),C1(21/12,5850m),C2(24/12,6200m),xxx(25/12,6700m)
accidents: None
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  From BC to C2 no problems but above C2 crevasse problems. Had found much fixed rope already on mountain up to C2 and used them. Used old ropes to 6700m but here crevasse required ladders and had no ladder with him. Snow soft. Crevasse at 6700m was 7-8m wide and could see there were 5 or 6 crevasses above of same width. No avalanches. 25th up from C2 to 6700m and back to C2. 26th to BC and left mountain 27th.


expid: AMAD92402
peakid: AMAD
year: 1992
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Alain Hubert
sponsor: Belgian Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 114
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 1992-11-24
smtdate: 1992-12-03
smttime: 1600
termdate: 1992-12-11
campsites: BC(24/11,4600m),Dep(27/11,5400m),C1(02/12,6000m),Smt(03/12)
accidents: Hubert right arm broken in one place above elbow
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  BC just above other teams BC
  C1 after 1st part of rocks.

  3rd Dec 3 members and Man Ram Tamang, old friend of Hubert started from C1 at 7 am and on top at 4 pm and slept in C1 at 9 pm in good weather but cold wind. 2nd attempt on 8th Dec by Hubert and other 3 members from C1 and stopped at 6600m; just before steep section because strong wind (ropes horizontal) and back to C1; just 50m before C1, Hubert hit by falling stones and arm broken. Now climb finished because the team guide out of action.

  Koreans couldn't climb: Sherpas pulled them up (Swiss said so too); careless about placing feet and knocked loose stones in area known to be dangerous for this, with 5-6 stones hitting Hubert, one big stone which hit his arm and broke (Hubert in quick reflex put his arm out to protect Ronvaux's head and this saved his life since not wearing helmet). This accident prevented Hubert and another member from attempting S Face, new route and probably not Dhaulagiri in 1993 as planned. Hubert had complained in Ministry of Tourism before climb that there were too many teams with Ama Dablam permits. 

  3 Dec Goethghebuer, Hubert, Richon and Man Ram Tamang started from C1 at 7:00 am and on top at 4:00 pm and slept in C1 at 9:00 pm in good weather but cold wind (-35 degree at top). 2nd attempt on 8 Dec by Hubert and Mahieu, Massart and Ronvaux from C1 and stopped at 6600m just before steep section because strong wind (ropes horizontal) and back to C1; just 50m before C1, Hubert hit by falling stones and arm broken. Now climb finished because the team's guide out of action.


expid: AMAD92404
peakid: AMAD
year: 1992
route1: SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Chun Byung-Tai
sponsor: Joyful Expedition to Ama Dablam
ascent1: 118,121
bcdate: 1992-11-28
smtdate: 1992-12-07
smttime: 1235
termdate: 1992-12-13
campsites: BC(28/11,4500m),C1(30/11,5500m),C3(06/12,6500m),Smt(07,11/12)
accidents: None
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  C3 6 am on 7th Dec and on top 12:35 pm; that day weather was very good with some wind. Yamanoi (Japanese) climbed before Sim to top and Sim had seen him on 6th climbing on face while Sim climbed ridge. 

  Next summit bid on 9th from C3 but stopped 100m above C3 by strong wind; 3rd summit party to top on 11th with Dawa showing them the route.

  Only 200m rope fixed by this expedition but used autumn expedition's rope.


expid: AMAD92405
peakid: AMAD
year: 1992
route1: SW Ridge
route2: W Face solo up; SW Ridge down
nation: Japan
leaders: Yoshiki Sasahara
sponsor: Kamoshika Club Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 115,119
ascent2: 117
bcdate: 1992-12-02
smtdate: 1992-12-06
smttime: 1425
termdate: 1992-12-09
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak W Face (Yamanoi)
campsites: BC(02/12,4500m),C1(05/12,5500m),C2(06/12,6000m),Smt(06-07/12)
accidents: Yamanoi one frostbitten finger (maybe will lose tip)
agency: Trans Himalayan Trekking (THT)
routememo:
  Aota left C1 at 6 am and reached top 2:25 pm and down to C1 at about 6 pm; no space for all at top C1 site. On 6th Ono and Sasahara to their own C2 and to summit on 7th: Sasahara at 1:55 and Ono at 2:25 pm and back to C2. These the climbed normal route.

  Yamamoi from same BC soloed W Face: 5th Dec from BC to bottom of face (which had no snow) at 5200m and sleep in biv here; 6th Dec biv at 6300m at 6 pm after 14 hrs climb up face without rest (big wind but blue sky). 7th Dec to top at 11 am; biv on 6th on SW Ridge and thus on normal route and on 7th he descended normal route to 5700m, where he biv and slept and to BC 8th Dec (Aota to BC 7th, others on 8th).

  Put fixed rope on normal route but used ropes from autumn (Koreans fixed new rope). On face Yamanoi fixed 4 pitches (50m each pitch) in a climb of 5.9 grade 70 degrees rock and ice. These 4 pitches on rock section marked by X on postcard - a little falling rock on face route but he was not hit; was not wearing helmet because that would obstruct his vision upwards; no falling seracs. Expedition's liaison officier and Koreans saw him climbing face and Onu saw his tracks for 20m on ice below where he joined ridge.


expid: EVER92401
peakid: EVER
year: 1992
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Philip Neame
sponsor: Darc Star-Territorial Army Everest Campaign
countries: USA
bcdate: 1992-11-16
smtdate: 1992-12-19
termdate: 1992-12-25
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to effects of storm
campsites: BC(16/11,5350m),C1(23/11,6100m),C2(25/11,6450m),C3(29/11,7300m),xxx(19/12,7900m)
accidents: 2 Sherpas injured in icefall (1 broken leg, 1 broken ribs and 'banged' head)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  High point at South Col.

  Icefall in "horrific" condition with route not having been maintained as promised. Argued with Asian Trekking about this and about the sirdar, Ang Tshering of Khumbu, "unreliable," a drunkard, and the Sherpa team who were "yak herders" (Asian Tkg. agrees sirdar's wages not to be paid) and who once rested throwing rocks at each other (Pangboche men vs Khumjung men). 

  Icefall very unstable especially at top end, much more so than in spring 1976 when Neame was on Everest and "took its toll on people's nerves." Above 7300m totally different wind conditions from those below. Had cursory look at S Pillar, but early on hoped to beat the winds (jet stream) with push on normal route, which had more ropes left from autumn rather than fixing pillar, where no ropes to be seen and no platform ledges also. Route to C3 appeared on 28th Nov but not occupied until next day by Harry Taylor alone after Sherpa turned back 150 ft below camp site because it was cold and windy (Sherpas given same clothing as members). Now in early Dec, a period of high winds to 9th Dec, during which stocked C2 and C3. Weather forecast that 9th and then on 13th would be good; 9th wasn't. C3 occupied on 12th but now forecast unfavorable and down again (skeleton crew at C2 and others to BC). Forecast next for 19th (on which date Sherpas fixed route to col with Mike Smith below them a bit; some of route already fixed well) and Smith spent 8 nights/9 days continuously at C2, 3 nights alone. Sherpas ignored instructions, on 20th dumped oxygen at yellow band instead of col and descended to C2 instead of C3 only. 

  Now Sherpas made a nonsense of logistical plans. 23rd forecast to be good. On 21st Smith joined in light snow showers by Taylor, Tinker, Duff and Pelkey in C3. 22nd 4 members planned to move to C4 and Sherpas to carry loads to C4 but no Sherpas moved out of C2 that day because slight mist. With forecast that jet stream would sit overhead from 25th indefinitely, light push on 22nd seen at last chance and was made by Taylor, Smith, Pelkey and Duff from C3, picking up oxygen at yellow band with biv at col and Taylor and Pelkey to top on 23rd. On 22nd, 4 set off for col at 11 am (late to minimize hours at col and C3 very cold till sun reached it at 10:30 am), Pelkey slipped on fixed ropes at yellow band in fresh snow on top of ice and ripped shoulder muscles, all 4 going very slowly with heavy loads, fresh snow underfoot and worsening weather so at 4:15 pm gave it up at 7900m because facing "an epic at the col" (Smith) in wind and snow, were going slowly, due to Pelkey's shoulder, Duff unwell from believed onset of cerebral edema and toes freezing (other 2 OK). Slept in C3 but Pelkey on verge of hypothermia and had to put up another tent which took long time. 

  Then storm worsened that night: 
    C3 - 1 of 2 tents destroyed 

  On 23rd and 23rd/24th night:
    C2 - 6 of 9 tents destroyed and 2 destroyed but usable
    C1 - 2 of 2 tents destroyed

  BC - really untouched

  All in BC 24th except Neve. Descent from C3 to C2 had been an epic in itself. In cwm 120 mph gusts on 23rd and temperature below -30 degrees centigrade day time and night, "flesh-freezing kind of cold" (Smith whose cheeks had sunface frostbite).

  25th morning meeting decided no more attempts: "weather forecasts" for next week at least (Jan no success in past), damaged camps would have had to be rebuilt, "useless Sherpas" and "state of team" with few potential summits in tents of experience and remaining strength (only Neve and Neame still fit and experienced) so "what was point of continuing, acclimatizing risk with little chance of success?" Smith: "I think we should have gone back" after several weeks" rest.


expid: LANG92401
peakid: LANG
year: 1992
route1: SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Jong-Ryang
sponsor: Korean Langtang Lirung Expedition
ascent1: 13th
bcdate: 1992-11-28
smtdate: 1992-12-18
smttime: 1300
termdate: 1992-12-20
campsites: BC(28/11,4300m),C1(04/12,5200m),C2(07/12,5800m),C3(08/12,6400m),C4(12/12,6800m),Smt(18/12)
accidents: Only fatal avalanches
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  BC on stream just below rock face southwest of peak
  C1 on rock face
  C2 at top of rock face
  C3 at snow ridge
  C4 at east side of snow ridge near junction of SW and SE Ridge.

  Stream runs south into Langtang Khola just W of Langtang Village; rock face is immediately east of stream; BC was 1.8 km north of khola.

  On ridge above C3 climbed right (east) side of ridge because ridge itself had too many peaks and snow apron.

  1st summit bid on 13th Dec from C4 by Ji, Kim Jin-Hyun, Kim Young-Soo and Dorje Tamang; reached about 7000m and defeated by very strong wind and down to C2 & C1. One tent lost at C3 (blown away with walkie-talkie, camera, video camera, etc inside).

  2nd bid 18th Dec from C4 by Kim Jin-Hyun, sirdar Bir Bahadur Tamang and Dorje Tamang: left C4 at 6 am, on top at 1 pm up steep snow face (had on 17th fixed rope up face to SW Ridge) in wind and some clouds, so cold; reported by walkie-talkie they were on top by Nepalis. Lee and Ji in BC also talked to Kim on top; they were OK, would be late (no time specified) getting to C4; at 6 pm from C2 saw 3 men by telescope at c6900m; at 8 pm lost contact. Before this big noise heard of avalanche and in talk summiters say cannot find C4 and fixed ropes which must have been taken away by avalanche so want to biv where there are (had biv sacks high on mtn, but Lee doesn't know if Tamangs took them along to top but Kim did) and spend night there. After that no more walkie-talkie and no sign of them.

  19th 1 member in C3 and he tend to go up but couldn't reach C4 area because fixed ropes gone in avalanche. Asked for helicopter for search and trekking agent sent there more men for search on ground.

  20th helicopter arrived at Langtang Village with 3 men but nothing could be seen (Tourism Ministry report of pilot sighting is wrong). Lee met them in village and told them to go back to KTM because he didn't have enough rope and gas for them to search on mountain.

  16th helicopter again to village and Ji got in but could see no trace of lost men. C4 region all changed after a number of avalanches.


expid: DHA193102
peakid: DHA1
year: 1993
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Zac Zaharias
sponsor: Australian Army Alpine Association Dhaulagiri Expedition
countries: New Zealand, UK
bcdate: 1993-04-18
smtdate: 1993-05-20
termdate: 1993-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to high winds and exhaustion
accidents: 5 cases of minor frostbite only; 1 member cerebral edema
agency: Wilderness Experience
campsites:
  BC(18/04,4600m),Dep(23/04,5400m),C1(27/04,5900m),C2(30/04,6400m),C3(09/05,7100m),C4(17/05,7500m),xxx(20/05,7600m)

routememo:
  BC at normal site
  Deposit (slept in occasionally)
  C1 at NE Col just above Col really
  C2 at NE Spur
  C3 on NE Ridge
  C4 on NE Ridge 
  High point at NE Ridge.

  Delayed getting to BC because of porter's demands for high wages: Rs 600 load for last day via Myagdi Khola. 

  Winds and exhaustion then defeated them: waited several days in C4 and there abandoned attempt. Down in BC on 21st. Regularly skied to C2, faster than walking, but above that mountain not skiable. One of 2 tents at C4 blown away on 18th.


expid: DHA193101
peakid: DHA1
year: 1993
route1: N Face direct
nation: Russia
leaders: Sergei Efimov
sponsor: Russian-British Himalayas Expedition Dhaulagiri 1993
ascent1: 54th
countries: Georgia, UK
bcdate: 1993-04-09
smtdate: 1993-05-11
smttime: 1100
accidents: Sedusov frostbitten feet (serious leg swelling, helicopter called)
agency: Mustang
campsites:
  BC(09/04,4600m),C1(11/04,5800m),C2(15/04,6400m),C3(21/04,7100m),C4(29/04,7300m),C5(09/05,7550m),C6(10/05,7800m),Smt(11/05)

routememo:
  BC due south of Sita Chuchura and due west of Tukuche Peak
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 on North Face
  C3 on North Face
  C4 on North Face
  C5 on North Face.

  From C1 had to go left to get around big crevasse. Above C3 difficult rock like roof tiler, some days covered with some snow, some days bare. 5th May start from BC to go top and 8th May arrived at C4, climbing with 2 tents. 9th made C5, stopped where snow cover began on 10th May. 11th May left C6 at 6:15 am for top; slept little that night at C6 because strong wind. 12th to C4 only because had no fixed rope there.

  Route is not easy to find: 60-degree wall but crossed it at 45-degrees steepness - good line.


expid: KGUR93101
peakid: KGUR
year: 1993
route1: SW Face-W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kiyoshi Washizu
sponsor: Kozankai (Club) Kang Guru Expedition 1993
ascent1: 14th,15th
bcdate: 1993-03-25
smtdate: 1993-04-14
termdate: 1993-04-22
campsites: BC(25/03,3800m),ABC(29/03,4950m),C1(04/04,5600m),C2(06/04,6020m),Smt(14,16/04)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Frequent snowfall. From 6200m to where route reached ridge (6570m) steep ice and all this section fixed rope; ridge not fixed.

accidents:
  Hitomi slight altitude sickness; Ogawa developed swelling above leg on return trek and requires operation


expid: MANA93101
peakid: MANA
year: 1993
route1: NE Face (slight variation)
nation: Austria
leaders: Arthur Haid
sponsor: Tirolean Manaslu Expedition 1993
ascent1: 39th
bcdate: 1993-04-05
smtdate: 1993-05-02
smttime: 1200
accidents: None
agency: Wilderness Experience
campsites:
  BC(05/04,3700m),ABC(07/04,4800m),C1(14/04,5700m),C2(20/04,6650m),Biv1(30/04,7080m),Biv2(01/05,7520m),Smt(02/05)

routememo:
  BC  at lower BC site
  ABC at normal BC site.

  When arrived at Samagaon expected ABC at snow line and but snow actually started at 3000m; and after camps established, more snow fell and always had to make new tracks. No fixed camps above 6650m. Went up to 7080m and when Sherpas said if no fixed rope (and team did not have much rope) no Sherpas climbing (Austrians used skies to 7080m), made deposit and camped there for one night (now here saw body hanging from rope on serac glacier). 1 May took tent up to 7520m, 4 people slept in 2-man tent and 2 May at 7 am started for summit and at 12 noon reached top in sunny, but very cold weather and strong wind from NW. 50 min on top and 4:30 pm were at 6650m. Had planned to ski from summit, but no Sherpas climbing so left skies lower. Sherpas frustrated because without skis, they waded in waist-deep snow; extra skis used by them to 5700m, but members did not let inexperienced men to use them higher. 

  With so much snow, summit could not have been reached by members [without skis]. Excellent powder snow for skiing.


  Eberhard Jurgalski - 11 Jan 2010

  Gerhard Flossmann returned "40 metres below the summit" is stated in the book from Sepp Hinding "Alleingang am Everest."


expid: ANN193101
peakid: ANN1
year: 1993
route1: N Face
nation: China
leaders: Samdrup
sponsor: China-Tibet Expedition to 14 Mountains of 8000m
ascent1: 29th
bcdate: 1993-04-10
smtdate: 1993-04-26
smttime: 1630
othersmts: Climbed Dhaulagiri I (DHA1-931-03)
campsites: BC(10/04,4360m),C1(16/04,5000m),C2(20/04,5340m),TentCamp(23/04,6200m),C3(25/04,6700m),Smt(26/04)
accidents: Ren Na sick descending to BC (stomach problem)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Put tent between C2 and C3 because route so long and this camp slept in. On summit push, made no C4 because that would take extra time and weather uncertain: 26th 4 men left C3 at 3 am (leaving 1 Sherpa at C3) and reached summit 4:15 pm and returned to C3 11:30 pm. 2 used oxygen bottles but other 2 bottles turned out to be empty; used from 7200m but finished before reaching summit. 

  Technically more difficult than Everest. Not many avalanches but on night descent found that a big avalanche had taken away 400m fixed rope (had some moonlight; some had lamps and batteries finished after early morning hour's climb). 

  In China one drives to BC but in Nepal 11 days to BC and very tired when arrived at BC and all took two days rest at BC. Above BC members carried same weight of loads above BC as Sherpas. Plan was not for Sherpas to go to summit and only one wanted to go to top.

  Planned 2nd group to summit but very heavy snowfall night of 26-27th forced cancellation of plan because of deep snow.


expid: DHA193103
peakid: DHA1
year: 1993
route1: NE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Samdrup
sponsor: China-Tibet Expedition to 14 Mountains of 8000m
ascent1: 55th,56th
bcdate: 1993-05-16
smtdate: 1993-05-30
smttime: 1515
othersmts: Climbed Annapurna I (ANN1-93101)
campsites: BC(16/05,4800m),C1(23/05,5200m),C2(24/05,5870m),C3(26/05,6480m),C4(29/05,7220m),Smt(30-31/05)
accidents: None
routememo:
  Weather 31st perfect weather no wind, no clouds and spent 1 hour 11 minutes on summit, didn't want to come down, burned incense. Easier technically than Annapurna and Everest but not Xixabangma, but very steep between C3 and C4 and difficult to make C4.


expid: CHOY93104
peakid: CHOY
year: 1993
route1: W Ridge-W Face from S
nation: Spain
leaders: Gumersindo Ibanez
sponsor: A Spaniard to Cho Oyu (on Betelu permit)
bcdate: 1993-04-12
smtdate: 1993-04-25
termdate: 1993-05-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to presence of Chinese army
campsites: BC(12/04,5250m),ABC.Dep(16/04,5500m),C1(26/04,5750m),C2(23/04,6400m),xxx(25/04,6600m)
accidents: Pemba stomach trouble; cook serious altitude sickness
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  same as Germans and Basques (true Kangchung)
  ABC deposit east of Pt 6177m
  C2  north of Nangpa La near go of Gyabrag
  C2  east of Pt 6556m.

  In Nov 92 asked to be included on Basque's permit but as independent party and arrived KTM on 27th March; Asian Treking arranged Sherpas: 1 climbing Sherpa, (Pemba), 1 cook and 1 kitchen boy and had his own gear of 500 kg tents, food, etc. (carried by 10 yaks). Left KTM 2nd April to Lukla; made deposit of Nangpa La and slept there 3-4 days and then across Nangpa La to C1; spent 3 nights at C1 and on 25th went to put new camp but made deposit only because snowfall; was at 6600m, higher ten Italians camp. All down from C2 (including Italians, Taiwanese and British as well as Basques and Germans) because snowfall. 26th Pemba to BC to rest from stomach trouble and headache, etc. while Ibanez stayed C1. 27th Ibanez from C1 to C2 and at icefall at narrow entrance to plateau where C2 was at noon saw 2 Chinese in uniforms with rifles. Only 12-15 meters from him but concentrating on Germans, whom they were very angry with so did not pay attention to Ibanez. Ibanez turned back and back to C1 to tell others about PLA and wait for Germans to explain what happened; did not go up again. Swiss had complained to Chinese - he did not go up because Swiss were on mountain (Swiss had met Germans on 28th and then complained to Chinese).


expid: CHOY93101
peakid: CHOY
year: 1993
route1: W Ridge-W Face from S
nation: Germany
leaders: Peter Guggemos
sponsor: Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 116
countries: Austria
bcdate: 1993-04-09
smtdate: 1993-04-29
termdate: 1993-05-03
campsites: BC(09/04,5250m),ABC(13/04,5700m),C1(16/04,6000m),C2(22/04,6750m),C3(27/04,7400m),Smt(29/04)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at true Kangchung
  ABC across Nangpa La and just turned east on Gyabru Glacier
  C2  just above Icefall.

  First went up Samma Glacier: 3 members, team's strongst climbers, went to see SW Ridge & decided highest part of ridge (above 7600m to 8000m) "impossible for us - afraid of it" & immediately abandoned idea of ridge ascent. 

  Made BC in usual site for cross-border. C3 established by 2 on 27th. 28th snow, wind and cold, so stayed in camp. 29th 1 member couldn't get started so another member, Seifried went up to top alone, down to C3, packed it up & down to 7000m & slept in Taiwanese C2 at 6400m & slept in Taiwanese tent; Guggemos joined them at C2 & helped carry down baggage. Guggemos had planned summit bid but had to descend with Gruenwald whose feet starting to get frostnipped. Seifried says he reached highest summit. Guggemos demands pictures within 2 months; no one was with him.

  Spanish (Basque & Ibanez) say Chinese army caught Germans & demanded money from them.


  Kopp - 23 May 93
  German Cho Oyu Guggemos

  Germans caught by Chinese at Germans C1 which was Swiss-Australian ABC and Kopp saw this: 2 Chinese had old very long rifles and 2 had no arms. Chinese told Germans to come down to Swiss ABC, where Chinese highest official was camped; result was had to pay DM 7500 ($5000) after negotiations reduced price of $15,000 to go on up.

  Guggemos had told members in Germany there would be no problem to cross Nangpa La. This not right when members pay DM 13,000 each ($8000) to go with him. Swiss team's Sherpas complained to Tibetan-Chinese about team from Nepal.


expid: CHOY93102
peakid: CHOY
year: 1993
route1: W Ridge-W Face from S
nation: Spain
leaders: Joaquin Betelu
sponsor: Basque Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 1993-04-11
smtdate: 1993-04-24
termdate: 1993-05-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to Chinese 'checkpost' at narrow icefall leading from Gyabrag Glacier to C2
campsites: BC(11/04,5300m),ABC(18/04,5350m),C2(24/04,6400m),xxx(24/04,6400m)
accidents: None except Ibanez cook's edema (oxygen used by cook)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at true Kangchung
  ABC northeast of Nangpa La
  C2  near point 6445 (near Germans).

  No C3 because problem with Chinese officials with Swiss. Caught Germans from Nepal side & depanded payment to let them pass: $5000 to return to their BC, $15,000 to continue climb. This Spanish team not caught, heard about this from Germans & decided not to continue climb. After 22 April this team went down to ABC. Then came much snowfall over 2 days & waited at ABC. 28th up to C1 with Germans (Spanish half-hour behind Germans & saw Germans caught by 3 men, 1 with rifle in army uniform), so Spanish to ABC & waited to try again. 29th Germans leader to BC for many while other Germans wait at Swiss camp. Spanish spent Sherpas on 1 May to see situation & reported Chinese still there which they were & would stay till Swiss finished 20 May. Spanish haven't food for 25+ more days. Sherpas brought down C2 & team left ABC 2 May.

  Betelu left team on 29th May because he is doctor & Dilip Sherpa, cook of Ibanez, very sick from pulmonary edema which almost killed him (Ibanez was higher on mountain & didn't know problem).

  Ibanez was on this expedition's permit but was independent of the others, had his own Sherpa climbing with him, his own Tamang cook, his own gear & climbed independently; he pitched his camp 1 the day before this expedition pitched theirs; he also withdrew from mountain becasue of Chinese controllers, reached Kathmandu 7 May. His highest point was C2, went down because of bad weather & heard from Germans about Chinese charging to climb.

  Alvaro Lopez: 30th April, 3 members caught by Chinese at 6100m going to camp at 6400m; took them to BC of Swiss but on the way, German leader met them & said Basques were members of his team & since Germans had paid already $15,000 so Chinese let them go (this second time this had happened on Cho Oyu so maybe Germans had funds in case needed).

  ** Oxygen used for sick cook.


expid: CHOY93105
peakid: CHOY
year: 1993
route1: W Ridge-N Face direct
nation: UK
leaders: Roger Mear
sponsor: Himalayan Kingdoms Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 118
countries: Argentina, Israel, Norway
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1993-04-17
smtdate: 1993-05-04
termdate: 1993-05-14
accidents: None
achievment: 1st Norwegian to summit
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
campsites:
  ChineseBC(14/04,4800m),BC(17/04,5700m),ABC(18/04,5920m),C1(20/04,6400m),C2(23/04,6980m),C3(03/05,7400m),Smt(04/05)

routememo:
  Followed direct route of Italians, etc before them because it was easier than cutting own steps. Easy mountain with no objective danger whatsoever. Army was in area because of Tibetan bandits threatening Chinese BC (1 night all in BC area including yak drivers huddled in 1 large tent and next day bandits disappeared) and because Tibetans were fleeing across Nangpa La. 

  Israeli and British woman on Mear's team got only to C1: Israeli never before on big mountain, acclimatization was very slow and he climbed very slowly. British woman technically not experienced; Israeli left 5700m camp at 29th April.

  Member saw policeman bringing down 4 Germans; Ruth saw 2 men with guns.


expid: CHOY93108
peakid: CHOY
year: 1993
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Andre Georges
sponsor: Expedition 1993 Himalaya-Tibet
ascent1: 122
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1993-04-26
smtdate: 1993-05-07
smttime: 1100
othersmts: Climbed Xixabangma (Georges solo)
campsites: ABC(26/04,5640m),C1(29/04,6200m),C2(01/05,6900m),Smt(07/05)
accidents: Padam (cook) cerebral edema at ABC (used oxygen)
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  Neff to 6400m+; no higher because not acclimatized. 5th May Georges arrived at C2 for his summit at 11 am. 5th May he left 11 am and got to 7200m and back because snowfall and returned to C1 at 1 am on 6th. 10 am went to C3 of German (DAV) expedition and slept in DAV tent. 7th May left. 8th May to ABC at 7 am.

  Cook had cerebral edema at ABC and used oxygen.


expid: CHOY93110
peakid: CHOY
year: 1993
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Aldo Verzaroli
sponsor: Swiss Cho Oyu N - Spring 1993 (on Bernardi permit)
ascent1: 126
bcdate: 1993-04-29
smtdate: 1993-05-16
smttime: 1526
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Kunga
campsites:
  BC(29/04,4800m),ABC(01/05,5400m),C1(05/05,5800m),C2(06/05,6400m),C3(14/05,7200m),C4(15/05,7500m),Smt(16/05)

routememo:
  Chinese BC by road.

  Were on same permit as Italians but arrived 2 weeks later (arrived KTM 25 April and left Nepal 27th, 28th at Tingri) - had own food.

  Italians summited 4th May and left few days later; this pair ate sometimes with Eiselin expedition; had all own gear (Italians left one tent at 7000m which pair moved to 7200m). At C4 used tent also occupied by 2 Eiselin members. 16 May both left C4 at 7:30 am and 15:26 (Nepali time) on top in clear weather to north but Nepal in cloud. From last rock 1:45 hours to for summit; slept in C4 with 1 Eiselin member (reached C4 in snowstorm at 17:30).


expid: GANC93101
peakid: GANC
year: 1993
route1: W Ridge from N
nation: UK
leaders: Raymond Delaney
sponsor: British Ganchempo 1993 Expedition
countries: Ireland
bcdate: 1993-03-21
smtdate: 1993-04-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to lack of strength and time
campsites: BC(21/03,4400m),Biv1(03/04,5000m),Biv2(04/04,5600m),xxx(05/04,6000m)
accidents: Simpson wrenched knee on walk-in
agency: Yangrima
routememo:
  BC  at yak herder but west of peak
  Biv at glacier below north side of West Ridge.

  After arrived BC, 6 days of snowfall drifting to depth of a meter. Recce/acclimatization afterwards for another week or so. Wanted to do NW Face but seracs very precarious stage and switched goal to SW Ridge. On 4 April Murphy and Philips tried for West Summit from Biv 2 from complicated ice field, abandoned this, and stayed night at Biv 2 and on 5th down and left mountain. Others who arrived at Biv 2: Tattesal down with Murphy and Philips while Delaney, Haszko, Stevenson and sirdar Chewang Rinzing up glacier to 6000m, crossed couloir on hard ice, then turned back in couloir (half team now out of climb, it got windy and storm perhaps coming, were not well acclimatized and were well below summit which was a km away).


expid: CHOY93107
peakid: CHOY
year: 1993
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: Germany
leaders: Ernst Schwarzenlander
sponsor: Tibet/Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 124
countries: Austria
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1993-04-25
smtdate: 1993-05-16
termdate: 1993-05-20
campsites: BC(25/04,5400m),C1(28/04,5900m),C2(04/05,6800m),C3(09/05,7380m),Smt(16/05)
accidents: None
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  1st summit party was 4 members but leader turned back at nearly 8000m because no more strength and 3 others went on to plateau and 1st summit and stopped because didn't want to spend another hour going to further summit; able to go on but this was good enough. 

  On 16th second party did go on to further summit in clear weather (15th cloudy) and all 4 in this party did succeed.


expid: CHOY93109
peakid: CHOY
year: 1993
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Peter Stadler
sponsor: Eiselin Sports Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 121,123,125
countries: Austria, Germany
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1993-04-26
smtdate: 1993-05-05
campsites: BC(26/04,5400m),ABC(28/04,5900m),C1(30/04,6400m),C2(04/05,7150m),C3(07/05,7500m),Smt(05,15-16/05)
accidents: 2 with frostbite but probably no loss
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  5th May Stadler & Wuersch at 1 am from C2 to top; weather good but very cold - 3 others were with them but turned back at 7400m & 7900m because of cold & long distance to top. 8th May second summit party but stopped at different altitudes, highest at 8000m in windy snowstorm.

  14th May Neuhuber C1 to C3 & 15th to top alone 12 others turned back. Neuhuber hadn't had to make most of trail & wasn't exhausted. 

  Guichard with 4 Germans on 15th May up from C3 & only he claimed top in bad weather.

  Miss Kopp's account of Tibetan police confrontation with German expedition is attached to German's expedition route notes.


  Ibanez - 15 May 93

  Large Swiss Cho Oyu expedition complained to Chinese about teams coming across from Nepal and therefore Chinese army men caught hold of Germans and Basques. This action by Swiss legally correct but not in the spirit of mountaineers. Swiss a big commercial expedition.

  Taiwanese sirdar threatened Ibanez's one climbing Sherpa (Pemba from Khumjung) he would be [arrested] if he continued on Cho Oyu (Pemba denies this).


expid: CHOY93103
peakid: CHOY
year: 1993
route1: W Ridge-N Face direct
nation: Taiwan
leaders: Liang Ming-Pen
sponsor: Taiwanese Cho Oyu N - Spring 1993
ascent1: 117,120
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1993-04-11
smtdate: 1993-05-02
termdate: 1993-05-10
accidents: Liu bad frostbite all toes and 5 fingers (will lose half of length)
achievment: 1st Taiwanese success on 8000m summit
agency: Surya Travel
campsites:
  ChineseBC(09/04,5700m),BC(11/04,5700m),C1(19/04,6300m),C2(25/04,7000m),C3(26/04,7450m),Smt(02,04/05)

routememo:
  New route from 2nd rock band, very steep mixed rock and ice; this route direct to summit. 

  On 4th May, leader, 3 members and 4 Sherpas left C3 for summit. Leader and Dawa turned back at 8000m because of leader's stomach trouble while other 3 to true summit (last summit).

  Sherpas:
    Tenzing Sherpa, 32, Tatopani (near Kodari), his 1st 8000m top
    Ang Kami Lama, 25, Bhakanji, Solu (near Junbesi), his 1st 8000m top
    Pasang Lama, 28, Tapting, Solu, his 1st 8000m top
    (Sirdar) Dawa Sherpa, 38, Namche Bazar


expid: GANC93102
peakid: GANC
year: 1993
route1: SW Ridge-S Face-E Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Daizo Yamamoto
sponsor: Matsumoto Life & Mount Ganchempo Expedition 1993
ascent1: 3rd
approach: Langtang Khola->Gyallsham Gompa & east->N-S Valley
bcdate: 1993-04-14
smtdate: 1993-04-28
campsites: BC(14/04,4400m),C1(16/04,4900m),C2(19/04,5500m),C3(25/04,6000m),Smt(28/04)
accidents: Nothing serious (only stomach troubles)
achievment: 1st Japanese ascent
agency: Himalayan Journeys
routememo:
  BC at North-South Valley
  C1 at moraine
  C3 at South Face.

  After C3 made route-making and resting before summit bid on 28 April. Almost all route of route above C1 was fixed. Route had three steep sections. Only one summit attempt because not enough gas and food. 5 hours from C3 to summit.

  Joint expedition is name only. Nepalese were actually hired members.


expid: CHOY93106
peakid: CHOY
year: 1993
route1: W Ridge-N Face direct
nation: Italy
leaders: Walter Bernardi
ascent1: 119
countries: Spain
bcdate: 1993-04-17
smtdate: 1993-05-04
campsites: BC(17/04),ABC(21/04,5700m),C1(23/04,6400m),C2(27/04,6950m),C3(03/05,7400m),Smt(04/05)
accidents: Lauthier 10 toes frostbitten and may lose parts; several with altitude sickness
achievment: Lauthier 1st Italian woman on summit
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  Route to C2 same as Tichy route. 1 May one member with two Argentinians and some Britons started up from ABC together to C1. 2 May they went to C2 with Taiwanese; also Sacco, Giorgis, Marzoni and Geroldi to C1. 3 May a member made C3 with Ang, British and Taiwanese while 4 from Italian team reached C2. In C2 Marzoni decided to descend because tired and did so on 3 May. 4 May to summit: Lauthier from C3, Sacco and Giorgis from C2 (with Geroldi to 8000m because late and weather changing). Lauthier left C3 at 7:40 am Chinese time and on top about 3 pm and down to C3 with freezing feet (frostbite started during ascent), while Italian men left C2 2 am and on summit 3:10 pm and returned C2 6:30 pm. 5 May all in ABC and Lauthier ABC to BC on yak (had frostbite last year at Gasherbrum II).

  Expedition had 10 members who left KTM together, but before they reached BC Pe and Poggiani developed mild altitude sickness and went home (on 15 April). Gazzola got mild altitude sickness at BC and immediately left (17 April). Leader Bernardi climbed to C1, got mild altitude sickness and left ABC for home on 27 April. Next day (28 April) Valverdu, who reached C1, also got altitude sickness and went home.


expid: EVER93117
peakid: EVER
year: 1993
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Lluis Belvis Del Rio
sponsor: Catalan Sagarmatha Cleaning & Climbing Expedition
ascent1: 165,174
bcdate: 1993-04-15
smtdate: 1993-05-16
smttime: 1040
termdate: 1993-05-20
campsites: BC(15/04,5300m),C1(20/04,6100m),C2(21/04,6500m),C3(29/04,7200m),C4(01/05,7900m),Smt(16-17/05)
accidents: Pujante hit by ice block but not serious
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at Col.

  Took 1 hr to trek past all C2 camps to this team's C2. This season Koreans (SW Face) charged $200 per foreigner to go through icefall. Tried to make 1st summit bid for 10 May but Pujante hit by block of ice on 9th May while going up between C3 and C4 and Pujante's head cut open and bled profusely and he was brought down to C2 where US doctor (Rabold) sewed wound. Then waited for good weather forecast from British satellite system; very windy from 11th to 15th. C4 reached 15th by Ang Phurba and Pujante (now recovered) and 16th May left C4 midnight, and summited at 10:40 am and C4 at 3 pm and C2 at 7 pm. Pujante and Ang Phurba used oxygen from C4 up because Pujante plans to climb all seven summits and all 8000ers and wanted to be sure to succeed. 

  Also on 16th 10 pm 4 people started up from col: Blade, Cadiach, De la Matta and Rafols with no Sherpas and no oxygen ever. At 8300m+ Blade and Rafols too slow (had reached col on 16th at 7 pm and were too tired) turned back at midnight or 1 am. 17th May De la Matta at S Summit 2 pm, did not feel able to reach top and returned to col same day; arrived at S Summit with Cadiach who went on alone to top at 3:30 pm alone and back to col 8 pm on headlamp safely and without frostbite. 

  Others at col wanted to try top on 18th again without oxygen and too windy so down at 3 pm.

  Cleaning: BC area much cleaner than in 1982, but Catalans Sherpas cleared away rubbish which they carried to Lobuche.


expid: EVER93114
peakid: EVER
year: 1993
route1: W Cwm-W Ridge (to 6800m)
route2: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Alexender Volguine
sponsor: Programma Pikki - to Everest
ascent2: 163,164,167,173
countries: Belarus
bcdate: 1993-04-03
smtdate: 1993-05-10
campsites: BC(03/04,5300m),C1(24/04,6000m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(28/04,7200m),C4(29/04,7900m),Smt(10,15-17/05)
accidents: None
agency: Kailash Journeys Treks
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm 
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col (first slept at Col 8 May).

  Climbed Khumbutse twice: 1st to fix rope, 2nd to bring down rope: via long couloir to ridge running W and then SW from S Ridge and past on W Ridge to junction with S Ridge. Did not descend into Tibet because that side of S Ridge very dangerous snow conditions; so decided to go into Cwm and try American route onto W Shoulder and 1st camp above BC was at top of icefall (had 1 tent biv. at 6000m on Khumbutse). Fixed rope from C2 towards shoulder; reached 6800m and rope finished. 

  When returned to BC, Nepali expedition asked help to bring down Pasang Lhamu's body; now lost a lot of time so better to go to top via S Col, combining help to Nepalis and going to top. Waited 10 days for permit to climb American route. On 8th May slept at col total 6 members not to go to summit but to help retrive Pasang Lhamu's body; went to col for summit separately: some tired from retrival body and rested in various camps. Mouravlev went to summit and then helped retrival on his descent; got to top last of all summiters that day. 

  On 15th May Janochkine to top with 2 Basques and 2 Americans and before 2 Indians. Koroteev 15th May BC to col, wanting to go to top but very tired when reached col and took one day rest, left col 6 am on 17th and reached top after British party of 3 had started down; as he descended, met 2 British party (near S Summit); Sherpa was going down without summiting, but man going up alone.


  Altadill (Catalan Everest) - 28 May 1993

  Trial by Everest liaison officers at Namche decided 23 May Russian member had sold to a Namche shop 4 pairs of high altitude boots stolen from Korean SW Face team at C1.


  British Everest members - 31 May 1993

  Russian stole British mats and sold them (also other items). Others stole oxygen and drink and tent at C4.


expid: EVER93115
peakid: EVER
year: 1993
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: John Barry, Peter Earl
sponsor: DHL British 40th Anniversary Everest Expedition
ascent1: 158,172
countries: Australia, Canada, USA
bcdate: 1993-04-06
smtdate: 1993-05-10
smttime: 1130
campsites: BC(06/04),C1(12/04,6400m),C2(15/04,6860m),C3(07/05,7470m),C4(08/05,7900m),Smt(10,17/05)
accidents: Pinju Sherpa bad back Apr 8, did not climb again; Taylor frostbite, etc.
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm (next to Basques at top of camps)
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  On 10th Taylor up from col alone; had arrived with 2 Sherpas and sent them down on 9th. On 9th Scott, Barry, Stephens and 2 Sherpas (who later summited) arrived at col; Scott down on 10th. Taylor left col at 11 pm on 9th entirely alone and without oxygen and on top 11:30 am on 10th. Seen going up on SE Ridge by New Zealanders who overtook him without his snow goggles (he later insisted he wore them all the time - altitude sickness?). In descent fell into small crevasse and now snowblind and extremely tired - again not far above Col fell down ice slope, did on ice-arrest and believes he spent 2-3 hrs trying to get down (had fallen out of sight of others on correct path to col). Finally 10 pm started shouting, heard by Basques who were preparing to go to top and were higest up col and who went up to to him and brought him to col tent in such extemis that he would have died in next half hour; suffering from hypethermia, cerebal edema, snowblindness, dehydration and exhaustion and it was discovered in C2 big toes badly frostbitten and nose slightly frostbitten. No one went up from Brits because 70 mph winds. Taylor failed to respond to torch signals. Taylor refused oxygen for 6 hrs at col but Stephens finally shoved mask on him. 11th Taylor not fit to descend from col and Barry stayed with him while Stephens and 2 Sherpas went down; Taylor and Barry went down on 12th and Taylor got to BC 14th and was picked up by helicopter at BC same day - don't know weather will lose a bit of one toe. 

  Stephens and 3 Sherpas on 16th from C2 to C4, left C2 5 am and on col 2:30 pm. 17th 1 am Stephens and 3 Sherpas left col 4 am. Stephens and 2 Sherpas on top 11:45 am and back at col 5 pm and 2 Sherpas and back at col 5 pm and 2 Sherpas to C2 same day because feared onset of snowblindness. 18th May Stephens and Sherpa Zambu from Col to BC and all members now in BC but Sherpas cleared camps and down to BC on 22nd May.

  Sherpa summiters said Stephens is good climber and led part of climb above col.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Ang Pasang Sherpa, 28, Pangboche, this his 1st 8000m summit
    Kami Tshering Sherpa, 29, Pangboche, this his 1st 8000m summit


expid: EVER93118
peakid: EVER
year: 1993
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Gaudenz Bass, Christoph Jezler
sponsor: Swiss Eiselin Himalayan Expedition
countries: Germany
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 1993-04-21
smtdate: 1993-05-23
termdate: 1993-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to wind and lack of time
campsites: BC(21/04,5200m),ABC(26/04,6450m),C1(01/05,7000m),C2(23/05,7700m),xxx(23/05,7700m)
accidents: Bass serious pulmonary edema; Beetschen kidney-stone attack
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  BC at road (end of East Rongbuk Glacier)
  ABC at East Rongbuk Glacier
  C1 at North Col
  C2 at North Spur on North Ridge.

  Planned to have summit bid on 25th May but on 24th wind too strong to move up to make C3 and with rigid time table, it was necessary to go down.


  Bass - 6 May 93

  Bass left BC 1 May.
  Expedition camps:
     BC 21 April at 5200m
     C1 pitched at 5800m
     ABC pitched at 6400m
     C3 being reached at North Col

  Bass used oxygen his last day at mountain as he had severe case of HAPE.
  Yaks to arrive ABC 26 May to remove loads for withdrawal from mountain.


expid: EVER93116
peakid: EVER
year: 1993
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Lithuania
leaders: Vladas Vitkauskas
ascent1: 162
bcdate: 1993-04-08
smtdate: 1993-05-10
smttime: 1230
termdate: 1993-05-17
campsites: BC(08/04,5350m),C1,C2,C3,C4(20/04,7900m),Smt(10/05)
accidents: Fell into crevasse into crevasse descending from Col below to his chest
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col (camp pitched on 20th April).

  On mountain Vladas stayed in Nepalese women's tents and ate their food but climbed alone and carried own oxygen bottles, sleeping bag and clothes. When he arrived at BC, C1 to C3 were already pitched. He went to C3 his 1st time on 18th April and 19th to C2. Went to C4 on 22nd at 5 pm and immediately down to C2 because no tent space for him at C4 and C3. 4th May arrived C3 next. 5th down to C2; no one going up from C4. 8th May left C2 with 2 oxygen bottles and went to top on 10th May; left Col 4:30 am, at South Summit 11:00 am, stayed 1 hour waiting for other ahead to climb and on top 12:30 pm, just before Lobsang of Australian team, returned to C4 at 5:30-6:00 pm and slept there; about same time Sherpas and 2 Russians brought Pasang Lhamu's body to C4; he helped carry her body from C2 to BC on 16 May.


expid: EVER93103
peakid: EVER
year: 1993
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Josu Feijoo
sponsor: Alavesa Expedition Everest 1993 (Basque)
ascent1: 166
bcdate: 1993-03-20
smtdate: 1993-05-16
smttime: 1000
termdate: 1993-05-21
campsites: BC(20/03,5300m),C1(05/04,6100m),C2(08/04,6500m),C3(12/04,7200m),C4(20/04,7900m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col (camp pitched on 20 Aparil first occupied 9 May).

  Never tried to climb S Pillar as gear arrived 2 weeks late and route not in good condition; also thought there would be 4 teams on pillar and that was too many. Col camp occupied 9th May by 2 members [Moreno and Onate]. 10th May Ang Rita found almost dead from cooking in closed tent (and did same thing next night). Moreno nursed Ang Rita and gave oxygen; also that day heard Taylor of British calling from 8200m; no British went to help but Basques did and helped Taylor; if did not reach Taylor, who had lost other gear, was trembling with cold (he would have died). Took him to col tent and gave oxygen (put him in British tent). Not possible to go to summit that day, too busy rescuing others including Ang Rita's son, age 21. On 16th May 3 members and 2 Sherpas left col 1 am, 10:00 summit by Onate and Zerain, 10:30 Jangbu, 11:00 Aguirre & 12:00 Ang Rita (probably over 50 yrs).

  Sherpa:
    Jangbu Sherpa, his full name says trekking agent, Lumsa, Solu (near Salleri),
      this is his 1st 8000m summit

accidents:
  Ang Rita & son almost died of oxygen starvation in closed tent with stove burning; 3 members slight altitude sickness, slow acclimatization (left BC May 10)


expid: EVER93113
peakid: EVER
year: 1993
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Ireland
leaders: Dawson Stelfox
sponsor: First Irish Everest Expedition
ascent1: 175
countries: UK
bcdate: 1993-04-02
smtdate: 1993-05-27
smttime: 1007
termdate: 1993-06-01
campsites: BC(02/04,5200m),ABC(07/04,6450m),C1(11/04,1050m),C2(25/04,7700m),C3(16/05,8300m),Smt(27/05)
achievment: 1st Irish ascent/British ascent N Ridge
agency: Nepal Trek House
routememo:
  BC  at Rongbuk (upper site)
  ABC at top of East Rongbuk Glacier
  C1  at North Col
  C2  on North Ridge
  C3  on snowfield below at NE Ridge.

  Utilized fixed ropes placed by Chinese/Taiwanese expedition, by agreement, We carried 50 kg gear from ABC to C2 for them & gave them some rope and oxygen equipment.

  They also used oxygen, food and gas at our C2, when their climbers were descending, frostbitten from summit.

  Frank Nugget went to 8680m on 27 May 93.
  Robbie Fenlon and Tony Burke went to 8500m on 28 May 93.
  Two other climbers were above 8000m.

  Ladder on 2nd Step is in place though loose. Chinese expedition placed new fixed rope on it.

  Base camp is clean, tidy and well looked after, but there is a lot of old and not so old rubbish at Advance Base.


expid: EVER93111
peakid: EVER
year: 1993
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Pasang Lhamu Sherpa
sponsor: Nepali Woman's Everest Expedition
ascent1: 153
bcdate: 1993-03-30
smtdate: 1993-04-22
smttime: 1430
campsites: BC(20/03,5350m),C1(02/04,6050m),C2(05/04,6500m),C3(07/04,7375m),C4(20/04,7900m),Smt(22/04)
achievment: 1st Nepalese woman on summit
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  When reached C2, Sherpas went to C3 site next day & day after that slept there: Lhotse Face no snow on it, all ice & quite easy & Pemba Nuru urged opening route to Col quickly so Sonam agreed. C3 slept in 7th April, then all down to BC. 11 am 12th Pemba Nuru & Lhakpa Nuru BC to C2, 17th in C2, 14th to C3 & 15th made route to Geneva Spur & down to C2. 16th 4 Sherpas also rested in C2. 17th 6 Sherpa-support men to Col with loads & slept in C2. 18th & 19th rested in C2 while Pasang Lhamu & Pemba Dorje to C3 & 20th to C4 while other 4 Sherpas to C4 from C2 (Kilu Temba, Pemba Dorje, Sonam & Lhakpa Futi to go to top 26th). Pemba Dorje was to stay at C4 in support of Pasang Lhamu's summit party, but Pasang Lhamu took him to top instead. 21st stayed at C4 and that night weather was clear and left at midnight for top: 5 men and Pasang Lhamu. 22nd New Zealand Sherpas and Athans and Pfau Sherpas to S Col and saw PL team at South Summit at 10:00 am (saw from Geneva Spur). From 8500m Sonam Tshering coughing blood but kept going up; he was just behind Pasang Lhamu and Pemba Nuru. Dawa Tashi ahead to fix rope; not deep snow (fixed rope from S Summit to top of Hillary Step). Dawa Tashi waited at top for other 5. All started down at 2:30 in wind and heavy snowfall which came as they were at top - two feet of snow deep when reached bottom of Hillary Step. Took 5 hours to get down to South Summit (now dark) and Pasang said she could not descend next difficult section in dark and without rope and wanted to stop there and they dug shallow snowhole there on summit side of South summit; Pasang, Pemba Nuru and Sonam Tshering stopped there (Pemba Nuru had extra oxygen bottle which he gave to Sonam at 9:00 pm). At 6:30 am 23rd Pemba said time to go down; all oxygen now finished; Sonam too weak (now vomitting blood); Pasang insisted to stay with Sonam; Pemba left at 7:00 am to get oxygen from Col, but he was too tired to go up; 3 other Sherpas had slept at Col and started up after her reached Col (up at about 9:00 am) and reached 8300m; too windy and they went back to C4 where 3 slept night while Pemba Nuru to C2. 24th Korean woman's 2 Sherpas tried to go up and 1 Sherpa from Korean SW Face team and Kilu up from Col; reached 8500m and wind cloudy and after 2 hours at 8500m far better weather and then down. No one since then above col.

  21st April set by team as summit date, 1st of 3 attempt dates - 12 May and 29 May were alternate dates: 21st Pertemba and Norwegians

     12th NZ, et al say this normal time: 
     5-15 May 29th 1st ascent

  Pemba Nuru keen to go for 21st date when there was good weather
  5 support Sherpas and 2 fresh Sherpas will try to bring down bodies. 


  Ang Tshering - 23 May 93

  Korean women could have saved Pasang Lhamu's life if they had cooperated on 23rd and sent Sherpas up from Col. 

  (Ang Tshering is Pasang Lhamu's husband brother)


  Pemba Norbu - 24 May 93

  Left South col tents at 11:30 pm 2 April and Col at midnight, on top 2:15 pm, very windy. Pemba Nuru and Dawa Tashi 10 steps ahead of others on top to take pix; 3rd on top Sonam Tshering, Pasang Lhamu, Lhakpa Nuru, Nawang Thile last changed Pasang Lhamu's oxygen at top. 

  From Col Pasang Lhamu carried own oxygen to 8400m and then Lhakpa Nuru took it over, and she took her oxygen by long tube. Lhakpa Nuru then had 4 bottles (2 oxygen).

  Pasang Lhamu very slow. Sonam Tshering last person in descent, even behind Pasang Lhamu, who did not know how to come down, had to be dragged down. Sonam Tshering sick (coughing blood) in descent.

  Pemba Nuru carried 4 oxygen bottles, 3 for himself and 1 extra. Gave now his extra at 7:00 pm at South Summit to Sonam Tshering when Pasang Lhamu told him Sonam sick, coughing blood. When on oxygen, not coughing (did not have TB). Pasang Lhamu stopped 50m below South summit on Col side. Other 3 Sherpas had gone ahead of Pasang Lhamu, Sonam Tshering (these two "weak people") and Pasang Norbu. She now waited to go back up and over South Summit to just below South Summit on Hillary Step side. Sonam Tshering (tired) had stopped 20 steps on that side and Pasang Lhamu sighted Pertemba's biv site here. So made biv here, scooped out some snow and sat against 40% slope 12:30-1:00 am Sonam Tshering coughing again, his oxygen finished at 12 midnight (Pasang Norbu's finished at 7:00 pm) and Pasang Lhamu still had 20% left. Sonam Tshering had pain both sides (both lungs) and coughed frothy blood - coughed 1/2 litre blood during night 5:30 am light came but Pasang Lhamu wanted to wait for sun but cloudy. Pasang Nuru said at 7:00 am no direct sun so down now. Pasang Lhamu tried to get up and fell over twice. Sonam Tshering too weak to stand. All oxygen finished (Pasang Lhamu's finished 8:00 pm).

  Pasang Nuru's vision affected now - sees yellow. Pasang Lhamu said we cannot go down without oxygen, Pasang Nuru should go to Col and send 3 others up with oxygen. Pasang Nuru left 7:05-7:10 am and reached Col 9:40 am, found 3 there in their tent. Pasang Nuru told them they should go up, they said they were tired (had reached Col 9:00 pm, had food and oxygen). They left Col at 12:00 pm to go up with oxygen and Pasang Nuru then went down to C2, the three men went up 30 meters and back to Col and slept there again.

  Pasang Lhamu and Sonam Tshering could have been saved if 3 men had gone up that day.

  Koreans women and their Sherpas reached Col that day from C3 so did other Teams (NZ and Indian).

  24th Pasang Nuru up fear C2 to Col and that day 2 Korean women Sherpas, 1 other Korean Sherpa and Kilu Temba up from Col to 8400m and wind stopped (Kilu Temba from BC almost non-stop).

  Had left 1 oxygen, and 4 head lamps at 8400m. Pasang Nuru had no strength to take this oxygen up. Had taken to summit are wind shield but no other biv equipment had such big loads of oxygen and tea and lunch: 26 Kg per man. Pasang Lhamu carried only 1 oxygen bottle at first, no walkie-talkie.

  Pasang Lhamu went for top early because of Nuru, not because of Heo and Sherpas on top on 13th. Indian Sherpas spread story Indian woman would go for top 25-26 April

  Sonam Tshering biv was on East Face side of South Summit and Pasang Nuru thinks he fell down East Face in desperate final pain from lungs. Pasang Nuru found Pasang Lhamu's body on 10th May; she was sitting exactly where he last saw her.


  Hall & Ball - 21 May 93

  Sonam Tshering was coughing blood from South Col (TB) but Pasang Lhamu and Lhakpa Sonam ordered him up as supposedly strongest member. Last year he was immensely strong on NZ team.

  1 Sherpa who went down to South Col on 22nd was Pasang Lhamu's brother. Pemba Nuru on 23rd pushed the 3 to go up to her and Sonam Tshering; they went up a little, but then down.

  Pemba Nuru raised no alarm below Col till he reached C2. No use of other's walkie-talkie, no talk with teams at C3.


  Todd Burleson 22 May 93

  Pasang Lhamu:

  Todd said in autumn 1993 he was present at Everest when Pasang Lhamu's husband (Lhakpa Sonam) ordered her to go up the mountain. She was weeping but he was forcing her to go up. Husband forcing her to get to Everest summit because he knew her success would make him rich.

  Nepal Everest:

  Nanda Rai got sick in C2 from altitude. Lhakpa had to bring her down (not my job but Sherpas sent with loads to C4) this 17 April.

  Pasang Lhamu had said she and Lhakpa Futi would go to top together. Then in BC after Gokyo-area acclimatization trek and Pasang Lhamu saw how strong Lhakpa Futi was, Pasang Lhamu said Lhakpa Futi should be in 2nd summit party. "I have to compete with the Indians and with Nimi but you don't have to compete with anyone" so go in 2nd team. Lhakpa Futi agreed, said she wanted 3 Sherpas; Pasang Lhakpa said she could have 2, Kilu Temba and Pemba Dorje. This conversation 9th April evening. Then they went up and to C3 together (with Sonam).

  Pasang Lhamu didn't know how to descend with crampons. She had to go down sideways. She got angry when Lhakpa Futi went faster in descent to C2 and Sherpas told Lhakpa Futi that Pasang Lhamu jealous of Lhakpa Futi (this on 15 April). 16th they stayed in C2 and Nanda Rai arrived C2 15th, got altitude sickness 15/16th night and US doctor advised taking her down. Pasang Lhamu told DF to take her down.

  Expedition had no walkie-talkies at all.

  Lhakpa Futi New Zealand to report arrival at BC and Pasang Lhamu told her to send up cook but she should stay at BC because bad weather. Kilu also at BC said "they are playing too clever, we should go up". DF went to C2 with cook; Pasang Lhamu had gone to C3 and took Nawang Thile on 24th with 2 Korean women Sherpas up to C5 8500m only because windy, very foggy and deep snow on night of 23/24th.

  Sonam Tshering said should make C5, 2 women go to top with 4 Sherpas but Pasang Lhamu and husband didn't listen. On 22nd there was no C5.

  Normally take 45 minutes from main summit to South Summit but Pasang Lhamu took 5 hours.

  Pemba Nuru pulled Pasang Lhamu to top and Nawang Thile pushed while at same point Nawang Thile took over her oxygen bottle to carry it. Now Sherpas say Pasang Lhamu treated DF. The way Pasang Lhamu said March Batard treated her, Sherpas realize Batard not all bad.

  Pemba Nuru left 2 in very bad condition: biv night incapable of descending by themselves (Sonam Tshering coughing blood). No communications and no support at Col.

  Same Korean women today to 8400m but high winds turned them back. "It doesn't look good - chances are virtually nil of their survival."

  In crevasse on southeast of South Summit - normal down gear and oxygen for round trip. "Sonam Tshering strongest Sherpa we have ever met and exceptional person."

  Went out ahead of others expeditions; were completely on their own; no potential support from other teams.


  Khatiwada, Ministry of Tourism - 16 March 93

  Three reasons why Pasang Lhamu was asked to pay 90% of royalty:

  1. She had agreed at time of signing of agreement between NMA and IMF regarding Indian womens expedition that she would be one of 3 Nepalese women members. She was offered deputy leader post but Nimi refused to be member if she and Pasang Lhamu were not on equal level and Pasang Lhamu insisted she must be above Nimi, so after agreement signed, she quit.

  2. She applied for her own permit, thus bringing total Everest expeditions to 20. So she wrote with her application she would pay full royalty (she claims she wrote she would pay whatever amount required, but this is not correct and ministry has letter in her own handwriting to prove this).

  3. After receiving permit in name of Nepal Women's Everest Expedition, she wrote to ministry to ask name change to San Miguel Nepal Womens Everest Exped, and though not explicitly stated in this letter, "spirit of the letter" was this would help her get funds for royalty payment.

  Pasang Lhamu asked Prime Minister for substanial rebate of royalty when he received her at official residence about a week ago. He passed request to to Tourism Ministry, who decided in view of above to offer 10%, which she spurned.

accidents:
  Nanda Rai altitude sickness at C2 and had to be helped to BC and left BC in chopper with [Lhakpa] Sonam on 25th


expid: MAKA93101
peakid: MAKA
year: 1993
route1: W Face (to 7600m)
route2: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Oreste Forno
sponsor: Goggi Sport Makalu Expedition 1993
ascent2: 40th
countries: Czechoslovakia, Slovenia
bcdate: 1993-04-05
smtdate: 1993-05-22
smttime: 1430
termdate: 1993-05-26
campsites: BC(05/04,5300m),C1(08/04,5700m),C2(11/04,6200m),C3(15/04,7000m),C4(16/05,7500m),Smt(22/05)
accidents: Mingma Tamang frostbitten toes (may lose parts)
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  BC at normal high BC
  C1 east of same ABC
  C2 at beginning of Hanging Glacier
  C4 at ice hole
  High point at West Face.

  C3 place for tent so had to carry up platform which installed 24th April (15th April spent night sitting in biv tent). Had slow progress because of route difficulty and frequent snowfall. Attempt on 17th May to move up with C4 tent and gear to make C5 at 7800m and then meet S Ridge at 8000m, but rock is steep and doesn't hold pitons. Did not see any pitons, etc. from any early attempt. Certainly highest altitude of Polish and British effort in 1981 was no higher than 7600m. So down to BC and sent up Sherpas to bring down camps and try normal route. Left BC on 20th (6 members and 3 porters). Made series of bivs: 20th at 6500m, 21 at 7500m, 22nd 4 members and 2 Tamangs on top more or less together, stayed on top half-hour, biv at 8000m at 9 pm; 23rd down to 6300m and 24th BC.


expid: MAKA93102
peakid: MAKA
year: 1993
route1: W Pillar (to 7650m)
route2: W Face (to 7000m)
nation: USA
leaders: Jeff Lowe
sponsor: Makalu W Face/W Pillar Expedition
countries: France
bcdate: 1993-04-10
smtdate: 1993-05-14
termdate: 1993-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 7650m due to heavy snowfall and avalanching
accidents: Nothing serious; Lowe buried by avalanche (took 3 hrs to dig out)
agency: Mountain Travel
campsites:
  BC(10/04,5400m),C1(19/04,6500m),C2(18/04,6400m),C3(13/05,7400m),xxx(14/05,7650m); WFace.xxx(23/05,7000m)

routememo:
  BC at roughly site of some ABC's beyond glacier's junction
  West Face C1 at hanging glacier
  West Pillar C1 at West Pillar
  High point 1 at West Pillar
  High point 2 at West Face.

  From BC, Erick Decamp & Destivelle went to W Pillar, while Lowe went to W Face (to hanging glacier also went LO Prem Gurung & Sirdar). Lowe did not go to pillar. When Lowe arrived at Mtn, Italians already well established on face, so used their fixed ropes to hanging glacier after a couple of climbs without them, felt ridiculous doing this on lower part of mountain. I was quite demotivated "by this": didn't want to join Italians but doing his own line lower down seemed foolish. Then on 17th May Italians decided to abandon face so planned to solo line nearby then big snowstorm dumped enough snow to make face "completely out of condition" (avalanches brought so much that it piled up & buried his safe biv tent at 6500m+) so gave up on 25th. This was 1st of monsoon-type storms.

  W Pillar: 25th May Decamp & Destiville gave up also because even on ridge too much snow. Progress slow between C2 & C3 because of lot of wind. High point reached in acclimatization foray; went up to C3 on 23rd but heavy snowfall of 24th stopped further progress. Fixed a total of 500m only.


expid: AMAD93102
peakid: AMAD
year: 1993
route1: NW Face
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Bojan Pockar
sponsor: Ama Dablam 1993
approach: Dingboche
bcdate: 1993-04-18
smtdate: 1993-05-03
termdate: 1993-05-04
termnote: Abandoned at 5600m due to bad snow conditions on face
othersmts: Island Peak to 5900m
campsites: BC(18/04,4700m),xxx(03/05,5600m)
accidents: Small falling seracs caused some pain
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC at Dunro glacier near lake at south end
  High point at lower part of NW Face.

  No camps above BC; at first very bad weather (every day snow in afternoon) and went to Island Peak to acclimatize; started up night of 2-3 May and at 4 am began ascent from bottom of NW Face at 4900m; till 13:00 hrs climbed easiest part of wall, of entire wall's 2000m; got to 5600m at 13:00 hrs. From 5600m key problem of face: 400m of steep rock wall and expected hard ice but found thin layer of thin ice and below very soft snow; this area possible only if have proper gear and are expert in this kind of technical climbing, both of which this team lacked (if did have special rock pitons and hammock, would take 3 days to surmount this wall); so abandoned attempt. After 2 hrs of climbing big seracs, avalanche which "almost killed us" (ran from middle of avalanche and smaller pieces only hit climbers" nothing serious but painful"). Only 2-3 avalanches in 14 days; lowest part is dangerous from these avalanches; upper part safe. 3rd May in night returned to BC.


expid: PUMO93101
peakid: PUMO
year: 1993
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Hall Wendel
sponsor: Wendel Pumori Expedition
bcdate: 1993-04-04
smtdate: 1993-04-11
termdate: 1993-04-12
termnote: Abandoned at 6860m due to ice wall barrier
campsites: BC(04/04,5640m),C1(06/04,6340m),C2(08/04,6675m),xxx(11/04,6860m)
accidents: None
agency: Nepal Himal
routememo:
  BC above lake almost at foot of ridge
  C1 at top of ridge (flat spot just below its tip)
  C2 just below col
  High point at East Ridge.

  On 11th down to BC. Impossible to go higher; "most and wall" icewall above huge crevasse and big 300 ft serac wall dangerous. Would have been possible to get around these barriers only with much more manpower, ropes, etc.


expid: AMAD93101
peakid: AMAD
year: 1993
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Scott Fischer
sponsor: Mountain Madness Ama Dablam Expedition 1993
ascent1: 122
countries: UK
bcdate: 1993-04-11
smtdate: 1993-04-24
smttime: 1330
termdate: 1993-04-25
othersmts: Attempted Mera Peak
campsites: BC(11/04,4600m),ABC(12/04,5300m),C1(15/04,5500m),C2(18/04,5800m),C3(20/04,6200m),Smt(24/04)
accidents: None
agency: Himalayan Treks (Him Treks)
routememo:
  BC at normal site (stone shelters).

  "It's a hard route" and not as much fixed rope as expected. Others who didn't summit took too long to get up difficult route and would have needed more rope fixed and timing didn't work out. 3 members didn't get above C1, which is a very easy climb to reach. Were not strong climbers for Himalayan peak.

  Summiters left C3 at 4 am, took 9-1/2 hours (carrying rope to fix) to get to top; went down to C3 at 5:30 pm and slept there; next day to Pangboche.


expid: KANG93101
peakid: KANG
year: 1993
route1: NE Spur-N Ridge/N Face
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Prajapati Bodhane, Vadim Sviridenko
sponsor: Kangchenjunga Indo-Ukraine Team 1993
ascent1: 41st,42nd
countries: India
approach: From Sikkimese roadhead of Lachen
bcdate: 1993-04-14
smtdate: 1993-05-23
smttime: 1440
campsites:
  BC(14/04,4935m),C1(21/04,5700m),C2(24/04,6300m),C3(05/05,6800m),C4(10/05,7300m),C5(22/05,7600m),C6(22/05,8100m),Smt(23,26/05)

routememo:
  BC at Green Lake
  ABC at junction of Zemu Chu and Twin Glaciers
  C1 at upper Zemu glacier basin
  C2 at NE Spur
  C3 at NE Spur
  C4 at NE Spur
  C5 near junction of NE Spur and North Ridge
  C6 on North Face.

  Indo-Ukraine Kangchenjunga Expedition 1993 by P. Bodhane & V. Siviridenko

  On 22 May 6-member team headed by Mikhail Sitnik, reached C5 at noon. The main summit was visible from C5. The whole team marched to C6 immediately and reached C6 at 3 pm. At C6 they pitched two tents 100m apart from each other on the north ridge on the Nepal side.

  On the 23rd, the same team started climbing towards the summit early in the morning. At 3 pm suddenly our sets came alive and it was the voice of Mikhail said that they had reached on the summit of Kangchenjunga (8586m) at 2:40 pm. The following members reached the top of Kangchenjunga: Mikhail Sitnik, Alexei Kharaldine, Vladislav Terzyul, Valentin Boiko and Alexander Serpak.


expid: DHA193303
peakid: DHA1
year: 1993
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Masakatsu Nakamura
sponsor: Research Society of Nagano Dhaulagiri I Expedition 1993
ascent1: 60th w/Bel
bcdate: 1993-09-03
smtdate: 1993-10-11
smttime: 0835
termdate: 1993-10-15
accidents: 1 member altitude problem early in Sep (descended to Marpha)
agency: Himalayan Journeys
campsites:
  BC(03/09,4650m),C1(13/09,5100m),C2(19/09,5700m),C3(22/09,6200m),C4(01/10,7200m),C5(07/10,7600m),Smt(11/10)

routememo:
  BC same as other teams
  C2 at North Col.

  10th Nakamura reached 8000m with Sekiya and 2 Sherpas (Latvian behind) and then Nakamura "high altitude, no good condition" in chest so down to C3 with 1 Sherpa while Sekiya and Mingma Tshering stayed at C5 and to top on 11th.


expid: DHA193301
peakid: DHA1
year: 1993
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hirotaka Imamura
sponsor: Yokohama Dhaulagiri I Expedition 1993
ascent1: 57th w/Fra disputed
bcdate: 1993-09-02
smtdate: 1993-10-06
smttime: 1445
termdate: 1993-10-13
campsites: BC(02/09,4650m),C1(18/09,5000m),C2(19/09,5800m),C3(23/09,6500m),C4(05/10,7400m),Smt(06/10)
accidents: Koseki frostbitten 3 toes but have feeling so will be OK
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC as same as others teams
  C2 (ABC) at North Col.

  After 23 Sept climbing progress slowed by much new snowfall. This team helped New Zealanders with oxygen. After summit success of 6th, 2 members try for top, reached C3 on 6th but not on above because of wind, so climb finished.


  Ed Viesturs and Gustafsson - 10 May 99

  In lodge in Marpha run by Mr. Bhakti is guest book in which a photo sent by Chamoux after his 6 Oct 93 Dhaulagiri I ascent shows him waving flag from false summit. 2 Japanese were him (not in photo) and Veikko saw all footprints stop here, Chamoux's and Japanese. From false top one can see ridge above but dangerous to go directly to it.


expid: DHA193302
peakid: DHA1
year: 1993
route1: NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Benoit Chamoux
sponsor: French-Swiss Team to Dhaulagiri I
ascent1: 57th w/Jap disputed
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 1993-09-03
smtdate: 1993-10-06
smttime: 1445
termdate: 1993-10-08
campsites: BC(03/09,4600m),C1(14/09,5700m),C2(20/09,6500m),C3(01/10,7300m),Smt(06/10)
accidents: None
agency: Green Lotus Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at NE Col.

  Had 17 days bad weather snow or rain daily after arrived BC. Chamoux left C3 on 6th with 2 Japanese at 4:30 am and on top 2:45 pm in deep snow and back to C3 to sleep.

  3 members left BC early because of bad weather and had no time to wait; in BC 11 Sept and left 27th; went to C2 and Gautier to 6700m. Ollagnier also reached 6700m, then had trouble breathing.

  26 March 97 - Ed Viesturs (USA) reports that Gustafsson doesn't think Chamoux reached summit; footprints stopped below summit.


  Ed Viesturs and Gustafsson - 10 May 99

  In lodge in Marpha run by Mr. Bhakti is guest book in which a photo sent by Chamoux after his 6 Oct 93 Dhaulagiri I ascent shows him waving flag from false summit. 2 Japanese were him (not in photo) and Veikka saw all footprints stop here, Chamoux's and Japanese. From false top one can see ridge above but dangerous to go directly to it.


expid: DHA193304
peakid: DHA1
year: 1993
route1: NE Ridge (variation)
nation: Belgium
leaders: Theo Bollen
sponsor: Limburg Dhaulagiri Expedition
ascent1: 60th w/Jap
bcdate: 1993-09-03
smtdate: 1993-10-11
termdate: 1993-10-14
campsites: BC(03/09,4565m),C1.Dep,C2(20/09,5600m),C3(23/09,6500m),C5(09/10,7600m),Smt(11/10)
accidents: Nothing serious; one slight frostbite
agency: Green Lotus Trekking
routememo:
  C1 deposit - not slept in
  C2         - at North Col
  C4         - not slept in.

  First ten days at BC was snowfall. 10th Oct first summit attempt Schuurmans & Dorje Sherpa (sirdar) from C5 up only 50m & then down because of dizziness by Schuurmans; back to C5 for 2 hrs sleep & then ready to try again but Dorje refused. 

  11th Vermarsenille & Dawa [see below] up from C5 & reached top together with Japanese, who caught up with them. Not very difficult & snow conditions good, but windy; above C5 left ridge for snow field on right of ridge to top.

  There was very good cooperation among the expeditions "perhaps that is why every expedition had a member on the summit," except the New Zealanders kept to themselves until they needed help with very sick member.


  Jan 1999 - Dorje Sherpa from Mamerku, Khumbu says Belgians got his name wrong and called him Dawa; he also scaled Cho Oyu with UK teams in spring 1997 and Annapurna I with Korean expedition in Dec 1984 (he had these details right).

  24 June 2006 - Dawa from Makalu VDC says that he climbed Dhaulagiri, not Dorje.


expid: DHA193306
peakid: DHA1
year: 1993
route1: NE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Rob Hall
sponsor: Hall & Ball Dhaulagiri Expedition
ascent1: 58th
countries: Finland
bcdate: 1993-09-21
smtdate: 1993-10-09
smttime: 1000
campsites: BC(21/09,4800m),C1(30/09,5700m),C2(01/10,6500m),C3(05/10,7350m),Smt(09/10)
accidents: Death of Gary Ball
achievment: 1st Finnish summiter
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at NE Col
  C3 on not so steep section of ridge before rock buttress.

  Weather bad with constant snowfall, so didn't go onto mountain until 28th Sept when arrived gear to cache at NE Col 5700m and back to BC. Rested on 29th, moved up to col; all three climbed together. 1st Oct up to C2, very stormy night and on 2nd ready to descend but weather so bad, couldn't see where to go, so decided while waiting to dig a snowcave, which turned out to be "so effective and decided to stay" and stayed there for acclimatization for 3 more nights. 5th up to summit attack camp with 2 Japanese and later that day Chamoux followed, so 6 in position to go to top together on 6th. Ball slower than usual that day (normally had steady pace with a lot of endurance - not a Chamoux rapid-type climber) and obviously tired last 100m and Gustafsson went back to carry his (Ball's) rucksack to C3, arriving at C3 4:30, saying he (Ball) was hypothermic so given hot drinks. During evening he developed lower breathing and other symptoms of pulmonary edema so given medication for that. Too dangerous to descend at night Hall felt, so stayed awake all night, helping him sitting up and giving hot drinks. All 3 began descent at first light and Ball now fully alert but too weak to walk; pulled him on gentle slope and on steep part got him down ropes (fixed by Japanese, et al) and called down to Japanese ask for oxygen, which they brought not for above C2 at 3 pm and immediately gave Ball oxygen. Kept on down to C2 at 4:30 pm and Belgians made tents available there - condition deteriorated shortly before arrived at C2 and at C2; less alert, confused and no normal conversation. At tent Hall took off Ball's clothing covered in snow and gave him his own and put him in sleeping bag and tried to get him comfortable and had oxygen supply. After 3 pm sun went off route, got very cold and he seemed stable. But began to spit up foamy blood and few minutes later he died; tried all techniques to revive him for half an hour, but couldn't revive him. 7th Gustafsson stayed at C2 to make his own ascent and he went to C3 on 8th. On 6th BC Sirdar had come up from BC to C2 and was there when Ball died; on 7th Hall, Kami Tenzing and 2 Japanese sledded Ball's body down to NE Col; on 8th they took him to top of icefall above BC and Jim and Helen Wood came up from BC and body lowered lowered into big crevasse at 5000m and "let the rope go." 9th Hall to Jomsom and flew to Kathmandu on 10th and ladies left BC on 10th but Gustafsson may arrive with them at Jomsom on 11th.
   
  "So good to be back strong and fit and fixing on all cylinders", Ball said 2 days before illness and all going so well. Ball very nearly died on K2 in summer of 1992 of several illness combined, one of them pulmonary edema.

  13 Oct - Gustafsson: he went back to camp at 7350m on 8th Oct and left at 3:30 am next morning alone (other team camped there said they would rest for a day or two); got to summit at 10 am left it at 11 am and reached BC at 4 pm, clearing camps as he descended - had no accident.


  Chamoux - 11 Oct 93

  Chamoux organized close cooperation amongst expeditions, fixing rope and working together. Then New Zealanders arrived later said they were alpine-style group and stayed separate.

  When Ball got sick, he was 10m from Imanura's team who used oxygen that night and next night on return from top.

  Ball should have been taken down that night. Route was fixed with ropes and Chamoux had descended alone at night before this. "It was stupid" that Ball was not brought down (as Chamoux urged that evening) and that he died.


expid: KJRN93301
peakid: KJRN
year: 1993
route1: N Face/Ridge
route2: SW Ridge of unnamed peak
nation: Austria
leaders: Franz Kroell
sponsor: Austrian-German Kanjiroba Expedition
countries: Germany
approach: From Jumla NE->Wangi->Dolphu->Chiti
bcdate: 1993-10-16
smtdate: 1993-10-18
termnote: Could not reach base camp, so climbed 6430m peak instead
othersmts: Climbed unnamed peak 6430m north of Kanjiroba
campsites: TempBC(16/10,5000m),C1(17/10,5400m),UnnamedSmt(18/10,6430m)
accidents: None
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC on grass
  C1 at rock band at beginning of SW Ridge.

  Intended to climb from north onto Kanjiroba but rocky, white water area, so turned north towards border with Tibet and made BC from which climbed a peak 6430m (unnamed) west of Palchung Hamga in Kanti Himal. Route was ice ridge from C1; from BC gears, moraine, smooth rock from retreating glacier to C1 at bottom of SW Ridge. Ridge 45-50 degrees, sharp, huge cornices on north side, but safe and not technically difficult. No food available east of Jumla except meat at Chiti. From Chiti to Phopagaon saw no local people at all. Had to have all supplies with 42 porters for 5 foreigners, of whom 2 were the climbers (hired porters in Trisuli Bazar, took them by bus to Surkhet and walked for 12-14 days to Jumla; had to feed all porters below BC throughout climb). Climbed only one peak because had to be sure to catch flight from Juphal. Did not fix rope. No sight of snow from 2nd Oct to 3 Nov. No clouds seen.

  Kroell and Mross climbed the SW Ridge of an unnamed peak (6430m) on 18 Oct 1993. 


expid: CHUR93301
peakid: CHUR
year: 1993
route1: (N)W Ridge from S
nation: Italy
leaders: Adriano Favre
sponsor: Monte Rosa Guides Expedition 1993 Churen Himal
countries: Nepal
bcdate: 1993-10-16
smtdate: 1993-10-29
termdate: 1993-10-31
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to dangerous snow conditions
campsites: BC(16/10,4150m),C1(18/10,4850m),C2(21/10,5400m),C3(27/10,6200m),xxx(29/10,6600m)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC near point 4100m at end of trail beside Kaphe Khola
  C1 at moraine
  C3 at NW Ridge
  High point at C4 site on NW Ridge.

  Very hard on very steep rock wall above C1 with almost 50m 90-degrees but only safe route (stones falling & seracs on both sides); also very difficult was 55-60 degrees & rock below C3. 29th carried loads to C4 site on NW Ridge. Planned to occupy C4 on 30th & go for summit on 31st, but snow very dangerous on ridge; on night of 29th some new snow fell & strong wind made big cornices, would have to wait 4-5 days for sun to consolidate snow. In any case ridge dangerous: sharp & very steep. Necessary in some places to climb on face rather than ridge & this would mean passing under big cornices. On 29th left loads at C4 site, slept in C3 and on 30th morning decided to abandon climb. Night of 29th very cold as well as new snow & wind & toes begining to become numb from cold -22 degrees centigrade inside C3 tent occupied  by 3 people. So down from C3 on 30th, abandoning gear at C4 site. Also with no Sherpas doing load-carrying, 6 climbing members very tired by the time they reached C3.

  The two Nepali members were Favre's trekking guides over the years. They only went to C1 because they were not experienced climbers.


expid: DHA193305
peakid: DHA1
year: 1993
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Latvia
leaders: Teodors Kirsis
sponsor: Latvian Expedition Dhaulagiri Lalutk 1993 to Dhaulagiri I
ascent1: 59th
bcdate: 1993-09-11
smtdate: 1993-10-10
smttime: 1315
termdate: 1993-10-21
accidents: Kulis fall; Janekalns pneumonia but returned and went up to C2
achievment: 1st Latvian citizen to any 8000m summit
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
campsites:
  BC(11/09,4550m),Dep(17/09,4850m),C1(21/09,5550m),C2(29/09,6400m),C3(08/10,7050m),C4(09/10,7250m),Smt(10/10)

routememo:
  C1 at NE Col.

  Took one week to get all loads to BC from glacier, where most porters dumped loads. Slept only once or twice at deposit tent in beginning. 10th Oct 3 left C4 at 7 am and reached summit 13:15 by 2 members and 14:30 by Kirsis in good weather except wind.

  Bernans, Busenbergs and Lapselis a few days later started moving up for summit bid but did not reach C3 because 3 not in strong enough condition, so returned to C2.

  One member (Kulis) stayed a day in C2 waiting to go up to bring down C3's tent but weaker and in descent slipped, hit his shoulder and broke a couple of ribs but was able to trek out; fell from about 6400m.


expid: TRIP93301
peakid: TRIP
year: 1993
route1: SW Ridge to Central Smt
nation: France
leaders: Alain Bigey
sponsor: Kanjiroba Euro 1993 to Tripura Hiunchuli
ascent1: 1st of Central Pk
countries: Spain
bcdate: 1993-10-01
smtdate: 1993-10-08
smttime: 1730
accidents: Diaz minor injury on approach march; Lentz bad back
achievment: 1st ascent of Peak No 2 (Central Peak)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
campsites:
  BC(01/10,3650m),Biv1(04/10,3800m),Biv2(05/10,4600m),Biv3(06/10,5230m),Biv4(07/10,5435m),Central-Smt(08/10)

routememo:
  BC due south of mountain.

  Local guides (had never heard of Tripura Hiunchuli) took team to wrong valley and 10 days lost. Northern part of Jagdula Khola very difficult and had to fix 1200m cross river to reach BC. First tried SW Ridge of S Peak intending to cross high glacier but this route above 4000m stone loose and too dangerous and not sure high glacier was really there (it is) so back to BC on 3rd. 4th followed river to west of mountain and bived at 3800m. 5th from river to small glacier and 2nd biv at 4600m just before glacier [Lentz, Pohl, Develamynck, Demesy, Bigey]. 6th one group bived at 4820m because Lentz had back problem, while Demesy and Bigey bived at 5435m just 100m below under SW Ridge of Pk No 2. 8th 1st group stopped at 5500m on ridge and down to 5230m because no more time left for climbing. Demesy and Bigey went to summit of Peak No 2 at 5:30 pm in very deep all the way and again some place bad ice; very near top Bigey put ice into snow which unexpectedly turned out to be thin place in cornice and returned to 5435m at 8 pm (had headlamps). Route not difficult to find but snow was bad.


expid: CHOY93310
peakid: CHOY
year: 1993
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: Japan
leaders: Kuniaki Yagihara
sponsor: Japan Gunma Sagarmantha SW Face Expedition 1993-4
ascent1: 133,136,137
bcdate: 1993-09-15
smtdate: 1993-10-08
smttime: 0956
termdate: 1993-10-15
campsites: BC(15/09,4900m),ABC(17/09,5650m),C1(25/09,6400m),C2(27/09,7000m),C3(04/10,7600m),Smt(08,11-12/10)
accidents: None
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  1st attack 8th Oct and 6 members on top. Next on 11th with 2 members and 2 Sherpas. Lobsang Jangbu went directly from C2 to top meeting other men just below summit. 12th Oct 3rd party, all from C3 except 2 Sherpas who went up from C2, Mingma Norbu and Nima Dorje.

  All Japanese climbers and 6 Sherpas to summit.

  Used oxygen because wanted to test equipment for Everest winter climb and also wanted to prevent frostbite and exhaustion before Everest climb. This Cho Oyu climb was preperation for Everest SW face attempt this winter.


expid: CHOY93315
peakid: CHOY
year: 1993
route1: W Ridge-W Face from S (variation to W Ridge)
nation: Spain
leaders: Manuel De La Matta
sponsor: Spanish & French to Xixabangma and Cho Oyu
ascent1: 138
countries: France
bcdate: 1993-10-28
smtdate: 1993-10-31
smttime: 1530
termdate: 1993-11-03
othersmts: Climbed Xixabangma
campsites: BC(28/10,6000m),TC(29/10,6500m),TC(30/10,7300m),Smt(31/10)
accidents: None
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  From Thami camped progressively closer to Cho Oyu on 3 successive nights: 26th Oct at Arye; 27th midway between true Kangchung and true Dzasampa at 5400m; 28th to base of mountain at 6000m where left a tent and a Sherpa cook and from here started actual climb moving at tent up as progressed. Went to true summit (saw Everest and Lhotse as approached top and then clouds came). Used fixed left by season's earlier teams and even found foot prints (perhaps Japanese) not covered by snow more than 2 weeks later. Went to summit 3:30 pm and 1st to BC 1 hr after dark; Thami on 3rd.

  Thami to top to Thami: 9 days
  Climbed on trekking permit only.


expid: CHOY93304
peakid: CHOY
year: 1993
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: Spain
leaders: Josep Maria Maixe
sponsor: Terragona Team to Cho Oyu and Xixabangma
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1993-08-30
smtdate: 1993-09-20
smttime: 1130
termdate: 1993-09-28
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to lack of desire to continue
othersmts: Climbed Xixabangma (Middle Smt)
campsites: BC(30/08,4900m),ABC(04/09,5700m),C1(08/09,6400m),C2(13/09,6900m),C3(19/09,7400m),xxx(20/09,8100m+)
accidents: None
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  20th Sept 3 members left C3 midnight (Chinese time) of 14th Sept and 3 am on 20th Ochoa returned to C3 because could see nothing, rested 1 hr and 4 am with stars shining, Ochoa again up. Porta after 1 hr one finger blue and turned back; Castellui had eye problems and turned back with him (Ochoa was ahead of them). He caught up with Americans before 8000m at about 6 am and passed them. After 1-1/2 hours on plateau in boiling clouds thinks he reached main summit at 11:30 am and back at C3 1 pm (Americans back to C3 about 3 pm - Ochoa thinks Americans got to highest summit). 3 members were in C3 on 21st when news came that 2 friends from Catalan expedition, Campos and Sabadell, had reached summit, were in trouble in descent so all 3 tried twice in night and morning to reach them but snow is very bad condition and dangerous so returned to camp twice, waited in camp for friends and after their arrival at 11 am gave them hot drinks and descended with them in help; rested 1-1/2 days in ABC and 24th 3 men up again to C1. Weather now much new snow and strong wind and then down 26th. Yaks 28th so then left mountain. Castellui skied down from C3.

  Americans claim that Ochoa did not reach highest summit.


expid: CHOY93303
peakid: CHOY
year: 1993
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kang Tae-Sun
sponsor: 1993 Gue Bong Alpine Club Cho Oyu & Xixabangma Expedition
ascent1: 129 w/Spa
bcdate: 1993-08-27
smtdate: 1993-09-10
smttime: 2000
termdate: 1993-09-15
othersmts: Climbed Xixabangma
campsites: BC(27/08,5200m),ABC(30/08,5600m),C1(01/09,6200m),C2(07/09,6800m),C3(08/09,7250m),Smt(10)
accidents: Um little frostbite on toe; Choi little frostbite on fingers
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  9th Sept 11 pm started from C3 to summit. At 4 am 10th bivouacked in snow cave at 7500m and slept 3 hrs. All 3 again up about 8 am and Um, Serrano and Martinez went direct to top while Choi and Min took normal route going indirectly up. Um and Serrano on top at 8 pm on summit while other 2 Koreans on top 9:25 pm. All did long traverse to true summit. Very deep snow on mountain, very tiring and very time consuming. In descent, biv again at 7950m-8000m 10th Sept at 10:30-11:30 pm; next morning in C3; slept in C2 very tired. No other members attempted summit because of rigid schedule of Chinese of yak's arrival in 15th Sept.

  Team went from BC to Nyalam and rested 2 days; then 8 members to Xixabangma while Choi and Kang to Kathmandu and Korea.

  Kim Jae-Soo (not an official member of the expedition) remained after the others left for Xixabangma and summited illegally on 18 Sept (see CHOY-933-16).


expid: CHOY93301
peakid: CHOY
year: 1993
route1: W Ridge-W Face from S (Tichy)
nation: Spain
leaders: Antonio Serrano
sponsor: Cho Oyu 1993
ascent1: 127 w/Kor
bcdate: 1993-08-05
smtdate: 1993-09-10
smttime: 2000
termdate: 1993-09-14
accidents: Serrano and Martinez all 10 toes frostbitten (may lose tips)
agency: Unknown
campsites:
  BC(05/08,5200m),ABC(09/08,5700m),C1(10/08,5600m),C2(12/08,6200m),C3(24/08,6900m),C4(27/08,7200m),Smt(10/09)

routememo:
  After making C2, down to C1 in deep snow, bad weather and again up in 17th Aug to C2. 18th halfway to C3 and returned to C2; again bad weather; 24th to C3; finally 27th made C4. 28th making way to top, started from C4 at 9 pm, kept climbing in very deep snow to summit for 24 hrs. Martinez stopped ascent at 8050m while Serrano went on to true summit. Martinez stopped at small summit while Serrano went "very long way" to higher summit with 3 Koreans, who had left C4 with 2 Spaniards. None took tent, biv sack; only little food and water. Spaniards and 3 Koreans slept at Martinez biv place and slept in BC, where autumn Catalan doctor gave care. Chopper unable to fly to them at BC because low clouds so left BC on yaks on 17th Sept, arrived Namche 18th afternoon and helicopter from Namche to KTM 19th. 5 members reached C2, only 2 to C3.

  * Serrano's trekking agent Kunga Sherpa said about 17 Sept 1993 that Serrano had reached summit on 10 Sept but was giving date as 29 Aug so as not to be known to be climbing in Nepal's autumn season (and thus liable for another peak fee). Korean team's summiter with Serrano, Um, said 5 Oct their summit date definitely not 29 Aug but was 10 Sept. I had pressed Serrano about his summit date on 20 Sept but he insisted 29 Aug was correct.


expid: CHOY93308
peakid: CHOY
year: 1993
route1: W Ridge from N
nation: Italy
leaders: Arturo Squinobal
sponsor: Italian Team to Cho Oyu
bcdate: 1993-09-04
smtdate: 1993-09-24
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to deep snow and wind
campsites: BC(04/09),ABC(11/09,5700m),C1(13/09,6400m),C2(23/09,7300m),xxx(24/09,7700m)
accidents: None
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  Squinobol, Comune and Tenzing Sherpa left C2 at 00:30 midnight of 24/25, but after 3-1/2 hrs turned back to C2 because snow deep (1m) and strong wind and climb finished. Only 1 Sherpa helping with climb so very hard. Would have needed 15 hrs to reach top and no others were on mountain so high. Next 2 days bad weather (still snowing) and both doctors busy looking after sick woman from Swiss team (with French). Decided on 26th to stop climb because of continued bad weather and avalanche danger.


expid: CHOY93311
peakid: CHOY
year: 1993
route1: W Ridge-W Face from S (variation to W Ridge)
nation: Spain
leaders: Jesus Gomez
sponsor: Basque Cho Oyu Expedition 1993
ascent1: 134,135 w/Jap
bcdate: 1993-09-15
smtdate: 1993-10-08
termdate: 1993-10-13
campsites: BC(15/09,5200m),ABC(19/09,5700m),C1(01/10,6500m),C2(04/10,7000m),C3(07/10,7500m),Smt(08,10/10)
accidents: One incipient altitude sickness
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at true Kangshung on Schneider map
  ABC east of usual northern team's camp
  C1  near Pt 6446m.

  After made BC, had one week in BC with snowfalling. Had deposit before Nangpa La and at this time avalanche took a way supplies there on 26th Sept; other expeditions gave food, boots and tent. Zuazana was going to summit with successful team but at 8000m had eye trouble and down to C3 to wait for others; eyes will take some weeks to recover from this (due to high altitude). Summiters went to far summit from which they could see Everest.


expid: CHOY93312
peakid: CHOY
year: 1993
route1: W Ridge-W Face from S
nation: Czechoslovakia
leaders: Ludek Ondrej
sponsor: Czech-Spanish Himalaya Expedition Cho Oyu 1993
ascent1: 134 w/Gomez
countries: Spain
bcdate: 1993-09-15
smtdate: 1993-10-08
smttime: 1030
accidents: None
agency: Himalayan Explorers
campsites:
  BC(15/09,5250m),Dep(15/09,5600m),ABC(30/09,5800m),C1(02/10,6400m),C2(03/10,7200m),C3(07/10,7500m),Smt(08/10)

routememo:
  BC  at correct Kangshung on Schneider map
  ABC east of northern ABC site.

  Pitarch left C3 on 8th Oct at 5 am, on top 10:30 am and stayed 1-1/2 hrs. Returned to C1 at 6 pm. No others above C3 because no time. Czechs had no time to stay till climb finished.

  Never saw any Chinese police or army or liaison officer.

  Sherpas with French Cho Oyu team (from Thamserku Trekking) stole a lot of gear from other expeditions.


expid: CHOY93309
peakid: CHOY
year: 1993
route1: W Ridge-W Face from S
nation: Spain
leaders: Jose Ramon Lasa
sponsor: Gohierra Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 132 w/Figueras
bcdate: 1993-09-05
smtdate: 1993-09-30
smttime: 1400
termdate: 1993-10-02
campsites: BC(05/09,5200m),ABC(08/09,5800m),C1(15/09,6300m),C2(17/09,7000m),C3(29/09,7500m),Smt(30/09)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at true Kungshung on Schneider map (next to Catalans)
  ABC northeast of Nangpa La at glacier  
  C1  near point of 6446m
  C2  at beginning of face
  C3  on face.

  C3 to be established 29th Sep by Bersategi, Umaran and Lasa but 2 turned back near 7500m because of altitude problem and knee problem, so only Lasa actually slept at C3 (only Lasa from this team) and went to summit with Cordona from Catalan team at 2 pm (NST), after French. Lasa slept that night at C3. Cordona had headache and down to C1? - no other summit attempt.

  Other 3 members actually different team: arrival BC 1-2 days after Lasa party and made higher camps several days (2-3) days later but in same places. 

  Gorrotxategi only to C1 because too much snow; Eguzkiza and Gorrochategui to C2; Eguzkiza on 29th up from C2 but not arrived C3 and went down, having finished climb.

  French also made C3 at 7500m and over to ridge only above C3.


expid: CHOY93302
peakid: CHOY
year: 1993
route1: W Ridge-W Face from S
nation: Spain
leaders: Carles Figueras
sponsor: Catalonia Cho Oyu 1993
ascent1: 129,132 w/Lasa
bcdate: 1993-08-16
smtdate: 1993-09-21
smttime: 1200
termdate: 1993-09-25
campsites: BC(16/08,5200m),ABC(06/09,5800m),C1(08/09,6350m),C2(12/09,7000m),C3(17/09,7500m),Smt(21,30/09)
accidents: Sabadell appendicitis before BC; Sabadell and Campos frostbite
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  BC  at true Kangshung on Schnieder map
  ABC northeast of Nangpa La
  C1  near point 6446m
  C2  at beginning of face
  C3  on face.

  C2 made 12th Sept by Campos, Figueras and Sabadell, but down to BC on 13th because lot of snowfall. 16th Campos, Maso and Sabadell up to C2, 17th made C3 but slept in C1 because altitude headaches; slept in C3 on 20th. On 21st Campos and Sabadell up from C3 1:30 am and reached summit at 12 noon in mist - spent 1 hr on true summit. Sabadell extremely tired and descended slowly and at 4 pm stopped at start of ridge on left (not same line took going up) at 7800m-7900m. Scooped out snow and bivouacked with thermol blanket as only shelter; slept a little, had walkie-talkie calls from Maso in ABC and other expedition. On 22nd daylight started on down to C1 where Maso gave food and drink. Had been not at serac at about 6600m by 2 members of Lasa Basque team to help them here; during biv of 21-22 Sabadell 2 toes and Campos 9 fingers some frostbite but will be Ok. Summiter's 1st time in Himalaya. "It's good for first time."

  Took skies for descent but not possible above 7200m.

  6 Oct - Maso: Cardona helped 2 frostbitten summiters at BC and after they left he returned to climb. He went up from C1 with Basques and French and reached top 30 Sept with 1 Basque (Lasa) and same French and Sherpas. He reached C1 30 Sept in descent while other summiters to C3. He "little sick in the head and go down" and after drink, Ok. He reached BC 1 Oct, same day Maso had left BC (they talked by walkie-talkie).


expid: CHOY93306
peakid: CHOY
year: 1993
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: Japan
leaders: Masami Abe
sponsor: Tokyo Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1993-09-02
smtdate: 1993-09-23
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to fatigue
campsites: BC(02/09,4800m),ABC(08/09,5600m),C1(16/09,6600m),C2(22/09,7000m),xxx(23/09,8100m)
accidents: None
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Before arriving at BC spent about 10 days climbing "small hills" in Tibet for acclimatization. 23 Sept Abe alone attacked summit from C2 starting 1:40 am and near top at 2 pm (may be not highest summit - was in clouds) and coming down because snowblind (had put on goggles only at 9 am) and lost track so bived at 7900m at 5 pm. 24th Sept 2 Polish climbers came up and Abe descended in their tracks to west of his own and returned to his own C2 at 11:40 am. Sakakibara arrived 4 pm and 24th both down with Sakakibara in support to ABC. 

  28 Sept other 2 members up to C1, 29th to C2, 30th 1 am left C2 and 3 pm Tawaraya arrived edge of summit plateau but no peak and turned back tired. Sakakibara went on 30 more minutes and also turned back tired. Neither reached any peak. Was clear weather.


expid: CHOY93314
peakid: CHOY
year: 1993
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: Italy
leaders: Marino Giacometti
sponsor: Everest Skymarathon to Cho Oyu
countries: Germany
approach: Lhasa->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1993-10-11
smtdate: 1993-10-18
termdate: 1993-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to wind and cold
campsites: ABC(11/10,5600m),C1(14/10,6400m),xxx(18/10,7900m)
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  18th Oct Meraldi and Greco made summit attempt and reached 7900m at 1 pm from ABC; very cold, windy and cloudy this day (ABC at 9 am Chinese time - was 15 degrees); most days clear. 

  Giacometti arrived BC 14th and on 18th also tried for top and reached 7000m and turned back when too tired; second attempt planned for 21st Oct but went only to C1 to bring back tent. Meraldi also was very weak after climb.

  Meraldi and 2 other members (Ferro and Giacometti) went for marathon on 7th Oct at Tingri. Expedition flew to Lhasa on 28th Sept, drove to Shegan on 3rd Oct for marathon on Tingri plain.


expid: CHOY93313
peakid: CHOY
year: 1993
route1: W Ridge-SW Pillar-W Face from N
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Pierre Frachon
sponsor: Atalante Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 131
countries: Germany, Switzerland, USA
bcdate: 1993-09-15
smtdate: 1993-09-30
smttime: 1200
campsites: BC(15/09,4800m),C1(17/09,5600m),C1(20/09,6200m),C2(21/09,6400m),C3(29/09,7500m),Smt(30/09)
accidents: 1 member cerebral edema
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  1st summit bid: 29th Sep by 3 members up from C2 & 30 Sep to top & returned to C3; started from C3 at midnight of 29/30th, reached summit at 12:00 hrs (before 2 Spaniards) after 2-3 hrs in waist-deep snow from 1st summit to true summit; back in C3 at 4 pm & slept there; after that not possible for more to tries to top because of fixed departure date, snow conditions extremely difficult & dangerous. Did not follow normal above C3 because of slab avalanche danger so went over to Pole's SW Ridge line at about 7000m. 

  1 member Gindre left early because very serious cerebral edema in C1, reached Kathmandu 30th Sep & recovered well in Kathmandu.

  Lafille told Christensen that the summit trio got up at midnight, thought conditions too bad to go for top, but when some Japanese came along several hours later below headed for summit, 3 French decided to go up too & left C3 at about 4 am, Japanese turned back below top but French went on. 

  Some factional disputes amongst French groups & differing views from commercial clients & expert climbers in too big a party. 

  8 Oct - Lasa, leader and summiter of a Basque expedition from Nepal, said route was basically normal route although above C3 (which both French and Lasa's team pitched at 7500m, not 6900m) went towards right to ridge above C3.


expid: CHOY93307
peakid: CHOY
year: 1993
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N (new line)
nation: Poland
leaders: Krzysztof Wielicki
sponsor: Polish International Expedition to Cho Oyu & Xixabangma
ascent1: 128,130
countries: Canada, Italy, Portugal
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1993-09-03
smtdate: 1993-09-18
smttime: 1600
termdate: 1993-09-26
othersmts: Climbed Xixabangma
campsites: BC(03/09,4600m),ABC(04/09,5700m),C1(11/09,6600m),C2(17/09,7000m),Smt(18,24/09)
accidents: None except Sprutta circulation problem
achievment: 1st Portuguese on top
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Completed Polish 1986 ridge route via ridge which is north of Nangpa Gosum ridge on Schneider map but is ridge running west & northwest from summit plateau once and north of Swiss-Kurtyka West Face; very steep South Face. 17th Sept Wielicki and Bianchi placed C2 and started up from there at 2 am of 18th and reached top at 4 pm in deep snow and slept in C2. 

  22nd Garcia, Pustelnik and Sprutta left C2 in late morning planning to sleep in empty S Korean tent at 7500m; on 23 rested. On 24th Sprutta climbed 100m with other 2, then down with blood circulation problem while others on top and slept in C2 (Portugese) and in ABC that night. Most difficult section in area of rock tower below C2 where fixed 400m total.

  * 2 Canadians, Dobbin and Cienski visited Cho Oyu ABC from Nangpa La, for a week went 500m above ABC, but did no substantial climbing and were not true members of this expedition.


expid: CHOY93305
peakid: CHOY
year: 1993
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: USA
leaders: Keith Brown
sponsor: USA Cho Oyu-Xixabangma Expedition
bcdate: 1993-08-30
smtdate: 1993-09-20
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to lack of desire to continue
othersmts: Climbed Xixabangma (Middle Smt)
campsites: BC(30/08,5400m),ABC(03/09,5700m),C1(08/09,6400m),C2(12/09,7050m),C3(19/09,7400m),xxx(20/09,8100m+)
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  Climbed normal route (Austrian) to 7200m then to West Ridge at 7600m. Then climbed SW Face to summit. I believe this same route climbed by Tibetans in 1985. Summit plateau was reached 9 am on 20th Sept. High point reached was the saddle at the southeast edge on the summit plateau which is about 20m lower than either of other summits little to the south and east of the saddle.


  Brown - 13 Oct 93

  He saw Poles tracks continuing beyond his own high point; these tracks went on to the right and would have gone to highest point on mountain. "At the time, there didn't seem to be any point to going further" himself; "we definetely didn't get to the highest bump." They could see a point that was 20m higher than where they (Brown's party) stopped. 3 Americans and Spaniard, Inaki: Ochoa, reached summit plateau together; Inaki went on for 30 minutes or more and Americans then followed in his tracks; all 4 men turned back at same point therefore Inaki also not to highest point.

  Jennings went only to C2; was afraid of snow/avalanches situation above.


expid: ANN193301
peakid: ANN1
year: 1993
route1: S Face
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Matjaz Pecovnik
sponsor: Slovenian Himalayan Expedition to Annapurna I
bcdate: 1993-09-09
smtdate: 1993-10-03
termdate: 1993-10-08
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to Sveticic's fall
othersmts: Nearby lesser peaks including Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak)
campsites: BC(09/09,4800m),ABC(29/09,5300m),xxx(03/10,6800m)
accidents: Knez had heart problem, never above BC on Annapurna; Sveticic neck broken
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at normal South Face for BC site
  ABC at bottom of South Face.

  Pecovnik arrived BC 22 Sept. Knez and Sveticic did some acclimatization on nearby peaks to 5500m; one week constant rain; no climbing on Annapurna until Pecovnik arrived. 

  From ABC on 3 Oct Sveticic to 6800m on face to deposit gear including tent rope and food & back to ABC on 4th Oct; 8th Oct after 3 days rest, Sveticic again up alone. At 8 am, stone avalanche and fell 100m down face and called by walkie-talkie after 1-1/2 hour and brought Sveticic down to BC at 11 pm. Sveticic had one at his each arm but moved on his own feet ("the difficult way [down] I fly"); neck broken in one place but all functions normal; face badly bruised.

  Wants to come again to Annapurna South Face, maybe in spring.


expid: ANN193302
peakid: ANN1
year: 1993
route1: N Face (German rte E)
nation: Spain
leaders: Oleguer Sune
sponsor: Catalan Expedition Annapurna 1993
bcdate: 1993-09-16
smtdate: 1993-10-10
termdate: 1993-12-10
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to chest deep snow
campsites: BC(16/09,4200m),C1(19/09,5100m),C2(01/10,5700m),xxx(10/10,6200m)
accidents: None
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  High point on German route on North Face.

  After C1 made 4 days bad weather (snow) then one day strong wind and C1 gone. When wanted to go to remake C1, again bad weather. C1 made in some place on 30 Sept and next day 1 Oct. In early Oct tried to make C2 and on 10 Oct decided to give up; impossible to reach top.


expid: ROCN93301
peakid: ROCN
year: 1993
route1: S Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Yang Wha-Souk
sponsor: 1993 Korean-Nepal Roc Noir Joint Expedition
bcdate: 1993-08-29
smtdate: 1993-09-14
termdate: 1993-09-17
termnote: Abandoned at 5500m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(29/08,4150m),ABC(05/09,4800m),C1(14/09,5500m),xxx(14/09,5500m)
accidents: None
agency: Unknown
routememo:
  BC  at Annapurna Santuary near Slovenian BC
  ABC at top of Icefall
  C1  just below beginning of South Face
  High point at C1 site.

  C1 not occupied; went down on 14th Sept because plan was to deposit loads only that day and next day to sleep there but heavy snowfall. 17th tried to go up to C1 but snow chest-deep and turned back, having reached no higher than 5000m. All down to BC 17th and climb finished. Too long time before snow conditions would make climbing possible. Fixed much rope because of long glacier and icefall.


expid: ANN193303
peakid: ANN1
year: 1993
route1: N Face (Dutch Rib)
nation: Spain
leaders: Sebastia Massague
sponsor: Bombers de Barcelona a L'Annapurna I
bcdate: 1993-09-16
smtdate: 1993-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6850m due to members not strong, lack of time
campsites: BC(16/09,4200m),C1(19/09,5100m),C2(01/10,5700m),C2.5(02/10,6200m),C3(14/10,6700m),xxx(15/10,6850m)
accidents: 3 members frostbitten toes (should not lose more than nails)
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  From C2 climbed to Dutch Rib; made camp at 6200m on Rib because route difficult with waist deep snow and avalanches on each side of this knife-edge rib. 10 days taken to make C3. Up on 15th but not possible to reach site for C4 at 7200m because ice snow face now. Rope needed to be fixed but none available and 10 days at C3 several members have frostbitten toes. After 15th attempt to go to C4, all in BC and on 20th again up, but no higher than C2.5.


expid: TILI93301
peakid: TILI
year: 1993
route1: NE Spur
nation: Greece
leaders: Stratos Paraskevaidis
sponsor: Greek Tilicho Expedition
bcdate: 1993-10-19
smtdate: 1993-10-23
termdate: 1993-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to bad snow conditions, loss of time
campsites: BC(19/10,4900m),xxx(23/10,5800m)
accidents: None (before Louridis developed altitude sickness and left team)
agency: Trekking International
routememo:
  BC at normal site at northwest end of Lake
  High point on NE Spur.

  23 Oct from BC going to make C1, biv 50m below C1 site because deep snow, very soft & 65 degrees slope meant danger of avalanches, cornice hanging above. Sirdar abandoned expedition before arrival BC (bad dreams and great fears) and therefore expedition lost 8 days finding BC plus desertion by half of porters. This then resulted in loss of morale of members. Constant avalanches down sides of ridge.


expid: BHRI93301
peakid: BHRI
year: 1993
nation: France
leaders: Bertrand Brouta
sponsor: French Allibert Bhrikuti Expedition
countries: Luxembourg
bcdate: 1993-10-26
termdate: 1993-10-27
campsites: BC(26/10)
accidents: All clients with altitude sickness
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  No climbing above BC. "My clients not very strong" and all suffered from altitude. Weather cold but clear and no wind. Brouta could not climb alone and had to stay with his clients.


expid: ANN493301
peakid: ANN4
year: 1993
route1: NW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Robin Roy Hamer
sponsor: British Annapurna IV Expedition
bcdate: 1993-11-08
smtdate: 1993-11-20
termdate: 1993-11-24
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to strong winds
campsites: BC(08/11,4800m),Dep(11/11,4800m),C1(13/11,5800m),C2(15/11,6300m),C3(16/11,6600m),xxx(20/11,7400m)
accidents: 2 members frostbitten toes which may heal
agency: Nilgiri Expeditions
routememo:
  BC at Sabje Khola (north side of a dry glacier)
  Depot at south side of dry glacier (slept in occasionally)
  C1 on top of 3rd Step on NW Ridge
  C2 just below dome
  C3 at West Ridge to which NW Ridge has led
  High point at final summit ridge.

  17th all down to BC for rest. 18th summit party left BC (E Hamer, McAuley and 4 Sherpas in 2 separate teams as E Hamer moved faster than McAuley) and reached C3 20th. 21st all six went for top with E Hamer's party ahead and reached 7400m; turned back when 2 of her Sherpas blown off their feet (but belayed so OK) and frostbite setting in for several climbers. McAuley and 2 Sherpas turned back 7300m when decision taken to stop. All to C3, where birds had pecked their tent and taken food. Hamer party descended to C1 while McAuley stopped at C2. Now realized both woman's toes frostbitten and on 21st both reached depot, where Sherpas carried them to BC on 22nd and on 24th carried to Hongde, from where they flew to PKR and KTM 25th.

  Better settled climbing weather is now in November definitely.


expid: MANA93301
peakid: MANA
year: 1993
route1: NE Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Heinz Schauer
sponsor: Rosenheimer Manaslu Expedition
countries: Austria
bcdate: 1993-09-07
smtdate: 1993-10-06
termdate: 1993-10-08
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to accident and lack of time
campsites: BC(07/09,4100m),ABC(12/09,4700m),C1(10/09,5600m),C2(28/09,6500m),C3(05/10,7200m),xxx(06/10,7300m)
accidents: Schultz fell bruising, pulling ligaments, frostbitten fingers & toes, and heart slightly affected
agency: Himalayan Excursions
routememo:
  BC at lower BC
  High pont on face near shoulder below plateau.

  Bad weather forced team to stay a week in lower BC unable to move on mountain. Often foggy and above C1 though icefall dangerous to climb in fog. C1 pitched 17th, slept in 20th, 25th reached 6000m and left depot. 28th and 29th 2 members by ski to C2. 2nd Oct wanted to try for top without any C3 but lot of snow so 3rd only up from 4700m camp, Kaiser, Schauer and Schultz. these 3 members arrived on 5th at C3 and slept there. 6th Schauer down because sick (had dislocated shoulder and now not strong) 2 members tried to go up but from 7300m stopped because stormy and Schultz lost gloves (taken away by wind). 50m below high point Schultz fell 150m, just before big serac and just before long steep section. Austrian expedition came and helped Kaiser search for Schultz; he reappeared and Austrian doctor took care of him. Took 2 days to get him to 4700m, mostly on his feet and helicopter evacuated him same day, 7th Oct. Climb finished. Actually climbing time finished 2 days earlier.

  Daxlberger and Kronast not well also - weak and back problem; Gruber not experienced climber. So only 3 members were climbers. Sherpas sick and unable to ski.


expid: MANA93303
peakid: MANA
year: 1993
route1: NE Face
nation: Russia
leaders: Valeri Karpenko
sponsor: Kamchatka Manaslu Expedition 1993
ascent1: 42nd,43rd
bcdate: 1993-09-25
smtdate: 1993-10-19
smttime: 1600
campsites: BC(25/09,4300m),ABC(26/09,4700m),C1(01/10,5600m),C2(02/10,6500m),C3(13/10,7200m),Smt(19,21/10)
accidents: None except fatalities
agency: Kailash Journeys Treks
routememo:
  Area of C2 at 6500m looks very safe but after period of strong winds much snow collects and avalanches with disasterous results. C3 established after rest days & bad weather (much fresh snow).

  19th Oct first summit bid by Bekrin, Ivanova, Bichenko, Lopatnikov, but only Lopatnikov reached top. Big wind and snow drifts and very cold so only Lopatnikov, who started 40 minutes before them succeeded (he left C3 8:30 am, on top at 4 pm) because no snow to make cave in, only "icehill", strong wind but still no frostbite. Returned to C3 in morning of 20th and afternoon to C2. He took time to find which snowhill was highest point. He saw Austrian's crampon marks and is satisfied both he and Inhoeger reached highest point.

  21st next summit bid by Bekrin, Ivanova, Khmiliar and Jadrychinkov, but only Ivanova and Khimiliar to top (at c3 pm); Bekrin too cold. Khmiliar's crampon broke when 100m above C3 [in descent] and moved slowly. When Ivanova looked back after big wind he was absent. All night big snow drifts and think he was blown into falling into dangerous icefall area. Search produced no results. Jadrychnikov had came up to meet them. 22nd after search he and Ivanova, Bekrin slept at 6200m in descent. At 4 am 23rd avalanche struck their tent, which they had brought down from C2, and covered half of it. Bekrin cut open ceiling of tent in 5 minutes from side of tent not covered. They found Jadrychnikov after 20 minutes and he was dead. Body left in broken tent and survivors descended without equipment to C1 at 10 am. Too dangerous from avalanches to go up to recover body (French Manaslu II Sherpas avalanched here but survived). Climb now finished because of avalanche danger.


expid: MANN93301
peakid: MANN
year: 1993
route1: NE Face (Manaslu)-S Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Michel Richard
sponsor: French Manaslu N Expedition
approach: Gorkha->Buri Gandaki->Samagaon
bcdate: 1993-10-15
smtdate: 1993-10-23
termdate: 1993-10-26
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to snow and avalanche danger
campsites: BC(15/10,4700m),C1(18/10,5650m),xxx(23/10,6600m)
accidents: None
agency: Tip & Top Trekking
routememo:
  BC at same site as BC for Manaslu I
  High point at NE Face just before Col.

  After C2 Sherpa deposit 6200m on 20 Oct and now bad weather started up with much snow and winds (20 cm new snowfall every night). 23 Oct 2 Sherpas placed C2 6600m in very dangerous snow avalanche conditions (many avalanches, Russian camp hit by avalanche on 23rd). So 26th Sherpas returned to C2 to bring gear back, but no members went to C2 site. Members went to 6400m on 23 Oct and turned back: not difficult but very dangerous.


expid: MANA93304
peakid: MANA
year: 1993
route1: S Face (Austrian 1972 rte)
nation: Italy
leaders: Paolo Paglino
sponsor: Manaslu Expedition 1993
ascent1: 40th
bcdate: 1993-09-28
smtdate: 1993-10-13
termdate: 1993-10-19
campsites: BC(28/09,4250m),C1(01/10,5000m),C2(03/10,5900m),C3(09/10,6500m),C4(11/10,7400m),Smt(13/10)
accidents: None
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  BC at normal site for South Face (Thul Nagi Glacier)
  C1 at top of first wall (rock wall)
  C2 at middle of "butterfly valley"
  C3 at end of "butterfly valley" just before ice wall
  C4 at top of ice wall at summit plateau.

  C4 made by Mondinelli, Caronti, Paglino and Moretti on 11th Oct and slept there. 12th Moretti down with altitude sickness and other 3 tried for top. Reached 7600m and turned back because very cold (-25 degrees outside tent) and wind. 13th 3 again up from C4. Paglino and Coronti stopped at 8000m because of cold, but Mondinelli continued up and found piece of rope and what he thought were footprints of Russians near highest point. He is sure he reached very highest summit, it was clear weather and he looked around carefully and took 360-degree photos. No more summit attempts: too cold.


expid: MANA93302
peakid: MANA
year: 1993
route1: NE Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Josef Inhoeger
sponsor: Gasteiner Manaslu Expedition
ascent1: 41st
countries: Germany
bcdate: 1993-09-21
smtdate: 1993-10-15
termdate: 1993-10-18
campsites: BC(21/09,4700m),C1(22/09,5600m),C2(29/09,6550m),C3(10/10,7200m),Smt(15/10)
accidents: None
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 near Naike Col.

  C3 delayed a few days while this team helped with German's member falling. 1st summit bid on 11 Oct by 3 members but too cold, strong wind drove them back only 100m above C3 and down to BC. 14th Inghoeger from BC to C3 and 15th to top. Also strong wind; found Italian's tracks on plateau and followed in their footsteps to 5m below summit because of dangerous cornice. All went from BC to C2 by skis.


expid: PUMO93303
peakid: PUMO
year: 1993
route1: SE Ridge/Face direct
route2: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Timothy Brill
sponsor: Nepal Pumori Expedition
ascent1: 83rd
ascent2: 85th
bcdate: 1993-10-16
smtdate: 1993-10-25
smttime: 1630
termdate: 1993-10-31
campsites: BC(16/10,5350m),C1(20/10,5750m),C2(21/10,6250m),C3(24/10,6500m),Smt(25,27/10)
accidents: Kitchen boy Anganbu nearly died of pulmonary edema, taken down to Pheriche
agency: Sherpa Cooperative Trekking (SCT)
routememo:
  Fixed rope from C1 to C3 with British-Polish. 14th Oct Beavan and Pierson left C2 for ascent directly up SE Face (not via col) and reached 6700m and bived here without biv equipment. 25th left biv 7 am and 4:30 pm on summit. Slow because snow unconsolidated. Descended SE Ridge to C2 where they arrived at 7 pm. 26th they descended SE Ridge to C2 where they arrived at 7 pm. 26th they descended to BC.

  Scaturro and Gordon left C3 28th and reached top 1 pm and returned to C3 about 4 pm; 28th down to BC but at c1 pm at 6100m Gordon fell, apparently did not clip in properly and body found by teammates and Brit just above C1 in terms of altitude but in couloir about 100m from C1; body intact but having fallen head over heels, was very badly broken. As soon as Gordon died, climb called off. Body left near where found covered by rocks.

  Dubois of UK-Polish team - 8 Nov 93: Brill very good organizer. Americans well organized, well equipped, but members not very experienced and Brill not a professional guide. 

  Todd, UK-Polish leader - 15 Dec 93: Dubois is a strong person and his judgemant not connected with reality. Brill is an irresponsible leader whom no one should be associated with.


expid: PUMO93302
peakid: PUMO
year: 1993
route1: SE Ridge/Face
nation: Greece
leaders: Epaminondas Nikas
sponsor: Alpine Club of Acharne Pumori Expedition
bcdate: 1993-10-10
smtdate: 1993-10-19
termdate: 1993-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to dangerous snow and ice
campsites: BC(10/10,5400m),C1(14/10,5850m),C2(19/10,6300m),xxx(19/10,6300m)
accidents: Polichronos incipient serious pulmonary edema and left BC after 2 days there
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  BC at small lake above Gorak Shep
  C1 at SE Rib/Ridge
  C2 just below Col on snow field
  High point just below Col on snow field.

  Avalanche at night of 19 Oct and came over one man climbing at night near C2 and Sherpas left C2 that night. 20th members also decided mountain not safe from avalanching ice and cleared camp same day.


expid: PUMO93301
peakid: PUMO
year: 1993
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Henry Todd
sponsor: British Pumori and Polish International Pumori Expedition
ascent1: 82nd,84th,86th
countries: New Zealand, Poland, Switzerland, USA
bcdate: 1993-10-07
smtdate: 1993-10-25
termdate: 1993-11-03
campsites: BC(07/10,5280m),C1(11/10,5750m),C2(15/10,6100m),C3(24/10,6550m),Smt(25,27,31/10)
accidents: Peterson infection and left expedition
achievment: 1st Polish ascent in 1st Polish attempt
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC nearer Gorak Shep than others (not so windy)
  C1 at rock pyramid
  C2 at end of small ridge
  C3 at col of East Ridge.

  14 members reached C1, 13 to C2 (not Petersen).

  Very good relations with Greeks and Americans on mountain at same time.


expid: PUMO93304
peakid: PUMO
year: 1993
route1: E Ridge from N
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Bart Vos
ascent1: 87th
smtdate: 1993-11-04
othersmts: Palung Ri, Lingtren, etc.
campsites: BC(endOct,6150m),Smt(04/11)
accidents: None
agency: None
routememo:
  1st climbed Palung Ri from SW 20-22 Oct then trekked to Rongbuk, climbed Lingtren from col camp in one day; bad weather kept him in tent 2 days, then up Pumori's E Ridge. Snow deep so had to go slower and avoid crevasses. Biv on descent at 6400m one night. Had reached Tibet via Nangpa La and returned same way, all on trekking permit. Approach to Col from north easy walk and mountain from there appeared to be snow dome with no seracs visible. They may be on NNW face, which Vos did not see. Vos was entirely alone throughout weeks in Tibet, climbing half a dozen peaks.


  Erhard Loretan - 24 May 2003 

  When he led his Swiss-Italian team to Pumori's north side in Spring 2002, they found no pitons on North Face and to descend it without rappelling would be very difficult especially alone; North Face "is not a walk; it's a very difficult climb." Easiest way up from north is up an 85-degree couloir 500m high. Could be a walk up NE Ridge to East Ridge slightly above East Col but there are huge crevasses and seracs. "Alone I would not go."


expid: AMAD93301
peakid: AMAD
year: 1993
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Karl Kobler
sponsor: Swiss Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Austria, UK
bcdate: 1993-09-18
smtdate: 1993-10-04
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(18/09,5050m),C1(01/10,5960m),xxx(04/10,6200m)
accidents: None
agency: Dhaulagiri Trek House
routememo:
  BC near lake at 5087m on National Geographic map
  C1 at NE Ridge
  High point at NE Ridge.

  Lot of snow to 6200m and dangerous avalanches; got to 5600m on 21 Sept and then snowed daily for several days. On the East Ridge sharp knife-edge, but Kobler would like to try it again. Never intended to make C2. Climbed above C1 for three days more and reached high point of 6200m on 4th with 6 members and then stopped because of bad and dangerous snow conditions.


expid: AMAD93310
peakid: AMAD
year: 1993
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Manfred Zink
sponsor: Munich Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 137
bcdate: 1993-11-01
smtdate: 1993-11-07
termdate: 1993-11-11
campsites: BC(01/11,4600m),ABC(02/11,5500m),C1(04/11,5800m),C2(05/11,6000m),C3(06/11,6350m),Smt(07/11)
accidents: Mutter fell at 5000m & hurt ribs; returned to climb but couldn't breath & did not go above C1
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  5 members left C3 on 7th Nov for top but Hofmeister had bronchitis and feet became numb from cold so turned back at 6400m while other 4 went to summit; were well acclimatized by trek through Rolwaling and Tashi Lapcha to Khumbu. 

  Were last team on mountain and especially 2 French teams on mountain just before Germans arrived and had put in fixed ropes, so with ropes in place, climb not difficult.


expid: AMAD93307
peakid: AMAD
year: 1993
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Todd Wells
sponsor: 1993 Tennessee Himalaya Expedition
ascent1: 124 (w/USA)
bcdate: 1993-10-12
smtdate: 1993-10-16
termdate: 1993-10-19
campsites: BC(12/10,4570m),C1(13/10,5800m),C3(15/10,6400m),Smt(16/10)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  Did carry to C2 but Wells not feeling well and started thinking about home so stayed at BC while Lackey climbed with Chahat and team.


expid: AMAD93302
peakid: AMAD
year: 1993
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Aldo Verzaroli
sponsor: Swiss to Ama Dablam
ascent1: 133
bcdate: 1993-09-26
smtdate: 1993-10-25
termdate: 1993-10-26
campsites: BC(26/09,4580m),BC2(22/10,4580m),Biv(23/10,5600m),C1(24/10,6100m),Smt(25/10)
accidents: None
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  Cook stayed at BC after Verzaroli left for trek and other 2 members arrived 6th Oct and climbed to C3 (about 6300m) 19th Oct, then down (Lieber not well and big serac above looked dangerous) and left BC 21st and took away BC and all gear. 

  When Verzaroli arrived 22nd nothing and no one left there from his expedition, but Germans and Venezuelans were there. 23rd Verzaroli to 5600m with his small tent, etc. (11-15 kg). 24th to C2 6100m with all gear. 25th from C2 to summit to C2 in 5-1/2 hours to top and 2-1/2 hours back to C2 in very strong wind. No other climbers were on mountain on 26 Oct but used other's fixed ropes. "I enjoyed being alone" but sometimes not easy to solo especially for more than 3-4 days.


expid: AMAD93309
peakid: AMAD
year: 1993
route1: SW Ridge
route2: W Face (to 6600m)
nation: France
leaders: Paul Grobel
sponsor: Terres d'Adventure Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 134,136,138,139
bcdate: 1993-10-29
smtdate: 1993-11-04
accidents: Clemenson & Hamel bronchitis
agency: Thamserku Trekking
campsites:
  BC(29/10,4600m),ABC(30/10,5400m),C1(06/11,5800m),C2(03/11,6100m),C3(04/11,6400m),Smt(04,06-07,09/11)

routememo:
  Too many people from too many teams on same route at same time. "Difficult to manage" because no space on ridge and the difference of the personality and only 3 tents can be pitched at C2 and who will fix which sections of route.

  C1 was on tent pitched on 30 Oct but not used till 6th Nov by Grobel and a Sherpa carrying up loads. The only people from this expedition to stay there. 

  Clemenson and Hamel did not climb much above C1; went to see friends in a village and returned to BC; were not serious about climbing; left BC finally on 9th Nov.

  Beautiful route and not too much technical difficulty and little danger.

  9th Nov Damilano from BC 3 am to W Face alone; climbed to left of hanging glacier and then night again to go direct to summit; stopped at 4 pm at 6600m, where he reached normal route, then was tired and descended to C2 at 6:30 pm; had wanted to see what he could do on Himalayan face.


expid: AMAD93303
peakid: AMAD
year: 1993
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Douglas Chabot
sponsor: Montana Himalayan Expedition to Ama Dablam
ascent1: 124 (w/USA)
bcdate: 1993-10-02
smtdate: 1993-10-16
termdate: 1993-10-19
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(02/10,4570m),C1(10/10,5800m),C2(13/10,6100m),C3(15/10,6400m),Smt(16/10)
accidents: None
agency: Jai Himal Trekking
routememo:
  Went to Island Peak after BC 3-7 Oct; back to BC 8th. 16th summit and back to C3 in beautiful but cold weather. 17th C3 to BC. 

  Lackey from other US team joined these 3 summiters at C3 on 15th went to top with them. Lackey and Chabot work for same guiding outfit in Washington.

  Gill went to C2, decided that was enough and went for brief trek, came back to BC and watched summit success.


expid: AMAD93304
peakid: AMAD
year: 1993
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Hans Kammerlander
sponsor: Alpine School South Tirol Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 123
countries: Italy
bcdate: 1993-10-05
smtdate: 1993-10-15
termdate: 1993-10-24
campsites: BC(05/10,4900m),C1(08/10,5800m),C2(14/10,6200m),Smt(15/10)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  BC higher than normal site
  C2 at normal site (100m higher than dangerous serac).

  "Not adventure with so many people" & "fixed rope; in alpine-style, it's a nice mountain."

  Perhaps 2 more to summit after Kammerlander left BC on same day as he left; ask Tinkhauser, who arrives KTM 28th Oct.


  Tinkhauser - 29 Oct:

  No summiters; 2 members got slightly sick & did not go to top.


expid: AMAD93306
peakid: AMAD
year: 1993
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Venezuela
leaders: Marcus Tobia
sponsor: Venezuela Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 127,128,130
bcdate: 1993-10-09
smtdate: 1993-10-17
termdate: 1993-10-23
campsites: BC(09/10,4400m),C1(10/10,5700m),C2(13/10,6000m),C3(16/10,6300m),Smt(17,19-20/10)
accidents: None
achievment: 1st Venezuelan summiters
agency: Atlas
routememo:
  BC at Mingbo
  C3 only place possible before mushroom and after tower.

  Technically difficult but safe from avalanches; very good weather while climbing (bad weather before started climb).


expid: AMAD93305
peakid: AMAD
year: 1993
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Anton Dallmair
sponsor: Landsberg Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 125,126,129,131,132
bcdate: 1993-10-05
smtdate: 1993-10-16
termdate: 1993-10-23
campsites: BC(05/10,4550m),C1(09/10,5700m),C2(14/10,6100m),C3(16/10,6350m),Smt(16-17,19-21/10)
accidents: No accidents or frostbite
agency: Sherpa Society
routememo:
  Many members ill in BC and Mueller climbed with pneumonia to top. All able to climb despite illness.


expid: KTEG93301
peakid: KTEG
year: 1993
route1: SE Face (NZ 1963 rte)
nation: Germany
leaders: Dieter Elsner
sponsor: DAV Training Expedition to Kangtega
ascent1: 7th-11th
bcdate: 1993-09-21
smtdate: 1993-10-03
termdate: 1993-10-12
campsites: BC(21/09,4900m),ABC(29/09,5100m),C1(01/10,6100m),Smt(03-04,06-07,09/10)
accidents: Mergheim early snowblind which became badly infected and cerebral edema (helicopter evacuation)
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC  near lake at south end of Hinku Nup Glacier
  ABC near junction of Hinku Nuptse and Kangtega Glacier
  C1  at Kangtega Glacier (snow cave).

  Looked at NE Ridge but lot of difficulties with icefalls, so only 2 people could make a successful climb and others of this large group will have to stay in BC. After BC established, one week of snowfall and could do very little. Fixed ropes from C1 on Kangtega Glacier. Route mostly same as New Zealand 1963.

  2 left expedition after summitting; Mergheim evacuated by helicopter on 9 Oct.


expid: BARU93304
peakid: BARU
year: 1993
route1: S Ridge from E
nation: USA
leaders: Christopher Brown
sponsor: American Baruntse Expedition
bcdate: 1993-10-18
smtdate: 1993-10-25
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to snow conditions
campsites: BC(18/10,5200m),ABC(21/10,5500m),C1(24/10,5700m),xxx(25/10,6000m)
accidents: Bock injured ankle muscle on approach march difficult moraine
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC  at Barun Glacier opposite mouth of Chago Glacier
  ABC at glacier running east from east side of Baruntse
  C1  in snow at base of rock face, northeast of Pt 6730m on Schneider map
  High point on edge of rockwall.

  25 Oct tried to make route above C2 but snow and ice conditions not good: ice was hard and brittle and snow unconsolidated deep sugar snow on steep terrain and avalanche danger. So climb finished and did not reach ridge. Too tired to try approach from west (approach march more arduous than expected). Porters refused to go past low site for BC. ABC site should have been BC, or perhaps make it at 5500m.


expid: BARU93301
peakid: BARU
year: 1993
route1: S Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Francis Ginet
sponsor: Les Compagnons de Mousqueton Baruntse Expedition
ascent1: 28th
bcdate: 1993-10-05
smtdate: 1993-10-15
smttime: 1130
termdate: 1993-10-17
campsites: BC(05/10,5400m),C1(10/10,6100m),C2(11/10,6600m),Smt(15/10)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Numbur Himal Treks
routememo:
  BC near 5440m lake of National Geographic map
  C1 just below West Col on its east side
  C2 west of Pt 6730m and just east of South Ridge.

  Snow better when this arrived at mountain than had been earlier, others reported. Attempted summit 12 Oct by Ginet and Voisin, fixed rope to 6900m and back to BC, not enough time to go top; difficult technically & windy. 

  15 Oct only Hirsh left C2 and just after Dujmovits party and reached top 11:30 am, half an hour after Germans, who completed route above 6900m. Good cooperation with Germans.


expid: BARU93302
peakid: BARU
year: 1993
route1: S Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Ralf Dujmovits
sponsor: Amical Alpin Baruntse Expedition 1993
ascent1: 27th
countries: Czechoslovakia, Switzerland
bcdate: 1993-10-05
smtdate: 1993-10-15
smttime: 1100
termdate: 1993-10-19
campsites: BC(05/10,5450m),C1(07/10,6140m),C2(11/10,6550m),Smt(15/10)
accidents: None
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC beside Hongu Glacier just before lake
  C1 at Baruntse West Col
  C2 on South Ridge.

  C2 pitched on 11 Oct but down to BC and occupied on 14 Oct. On summit day Dujmovits fixed 500m rope with clients following him. French expedition member went up to C2 when he heard Germans going up on 14 Oct and went to top with Germans on 15 Oct.


expid: BARU93303
peakid: BARU
year: 1993
route1: NE side-E Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Joerg Zengerle
sponsor: German Baruntse E Ridge Expedition
bcdate: 1993-10-12
smtdate: 1993-10-19
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(12/10,5200m),C1(15/10,5450m),xxx(19/10,5800m)
accidents: Amann infection from leach
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Hip deep snow and high risk of avalanche; loose and had grains of snow. No chance to climb East Ridge with secure fixing. "Turned back early enough before accidents happened."


expid: BARU93305
peakid: BARU
year: 1993
nation: France
leaders: Pierre Brizzi
sponsor: Azur Adventure Baruntse Expedition
approach: Tumlingtar->Barun Glacier->Sherpani Col
bcdate: 1993-11-08
smtdate: 1993-11-08
termdate: 1993-11-09
campsites: BC(08/11,6000m)
accidents: Porters (frostbite, some rope burns descending from W Col)
agency: Tshering Sherpa Trekking
routememo:
  No attempt made to climb mountain. Porters were insufficient in numbers (members had to ferry loads) and not at all equipped for snow and cold. Deep snow in BC area. Members had to lend some of their clothing. Porters huddled together in the snow for the night of 8/9 Nov and on 9th entire party moved away for retreat via Amphu Laptsa and Lukla.


expid: CHOL93301
peakid: CHOL
year: 1993
route1: SW Ridge
route2: W Rib-SW Ridge (NZ 1992 rte)
nation: USA
leaders: John Climaco
sponsor: 1993 American Cholatse Expedition
ascent1: 9th,10th
ascent2: 11th
countries: Canada, Sweden
bcdate: 1993-10-04
smtdate: 1993-10-21
termdate: 1993-10-27
accidents: Beatty bronchitis drove him down from C1 on 18 Oct
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
campsites:
  BC(04/10,4700m),ABC(14/10,5000m),C1(16/10,5670m),C2(18/10,5915m),C3(20/10,6190m),Biv1(20/10,5975m),Biv2(21/10,6155m),Biv3(22/10,6190m),Biv4(23/10,5915m),Smt(21-23/10)

routememo:
  BC  east of Charchung at bottom of face
  ABC right under face
  C1  on SW Ridge at col past icefall
  C2  on SW Ridge 
  C3  at top of SW Ridge
  Biv on West Rib.

  From ABC routes diverged with Webster & Dummire to W Rib and others to SW Ridge. For ridge, route goes SE through icefall & SW Ridge itself with no fixed camps but tents at each stopping place set up & taken down as moved up & down. Ridge route not seriously difficult but steep snow made "awkward ground" to climb. On rib route: acclimatized in ridge route & spent 16th & 17th nights at their C1, then on 18th to BC (with sick Beatty). 19th to ABC & at 2 am on 20th up through icefall & just before top of icefall at left to W Rib at c17,600 ft, climbed up ribs summed to below seracs, again left around them one 10m steep "frightening" water ice section to lower angle back on rib for 1st biv at 2:30 pm. 21st straight up rib starting at 8:30 am & biv at platform hacked out of snow & ice at base of serac barriers at base of summit plateau (did 100m pitches). Above 30m steep section/pitch was another pitch of "rotten" snow which did not support any weight. On rib had hardest climb of the route, straight up 10m water ice wall directly above biv & spent whole day on this pitch & resting at new biv which was at SW Ridge C3. 23rd to summit via SW Ridge route & descended SW Ridge to C2 site & biv here because of mtn team "difficulties." 

  Heinrich climbed partly with rib team, partly alone - had different ideas of safe climbing.


expid: MAKA93304
peakid: MAKA
year: 1993
route1: Left point of W Face-NW Ridge
nation: Czechoslovakia
leaders: Jiri Novak
sponsor: Makalu International Expedition
countries: Italy
bcdate: 1993-09-18
smtdate: 1993-10-10
termdate: 1993-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 8200m due to wind & bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(18/09,5300m),ABC(19/09,5800m),C1(26/09,6600m),C2(05/10,7400m),C3(09/10,7900m),xxx(10/10,8200m)
accidents: None
agency: Everest Adventure
routememo:
  BC  in area of high BC
  ABC on rock between 2 glaciers
  C1  on Kukuczka pillar
  C2  at Makalu La
  C3  below NW Ridge
  High point at NW Ridge.

  Snow fall after 20th Sept to end Oct every day, not heavy fall but daily. Went to Makalu La to avoid avalanches. South of La tried 2 lines above C3: Nicco and Moro got to 8200m on ridge and winds very dangerous. One day later Mysik and Rakoncaj reached 7900-8000m left of ridge to normal route and snow made impossible to cross serac zone (in 1 hour climbed 30m). Moro on 11th tried again on ridge but again stopped by wind at 8200m. Climb now finished (watched weather from BC for 3 days but no change).


expid: MAKA93302
peakid: MAKA
year: 1993
route1: W Pillar (to 6800m)
route2: Left side of W Face to Makalu La
nation: Australia
leaders: Ian Collins
sponsor: Chase Manhattan Makalu Expedition
countries: New Zealand
bcdate: 1993-09-04
smtdate: 1993-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to bad snow conditions, wind & lack of manpower
campsites: BC(04/09,5400m),C1(11/09,6100m),C2(19/09,6400m),xxx(01/10,6800m); Biv(14/10,6600m),xxx(15/10,7400m)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
routememo:
  BC at east side of Chago Glacier above normal high BC site
  C1 at start of ridge leading to West Pillar
  C2 at base of pillar
  Biv at left side of West Face (Kukuczka route)
  High points on West Pillar and Makalu La.

  From C2 fixed 600m and then decided chances of getting to top weren't good; lot of snow, more than normally encountered; lack of manpower (Leicester only couple of carries, Baird eye problem and King slow to accustom himself to high mountain) at the beginning. Germans left and took their share of pooled gear with them. So after having reached 6800-6900m on pillar decided to shift to route which gave better chance of summit success. Changed to Kukuzcka route (whether ministry knew about route changes, don't know). Czechs had left fixed ropes and biv at their C2 on 14 Oct at 6600m by 4 members. 15 Oct Groom and Squires on up, Groom to Makalu La and descended to meet Squires to report snow knee deep and strong wind so climb finished. Bigger and stronger team needed and in spring perhaps better for less snow.


expid: MAKA93303
peakid: MAKA
year: 1993
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jean Coudray
sponsor: French Expedition Makalu 1993
bcdate: 1993-09-13
smtdate: 1993-10-07
termdate: 1993-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to strong wind, very cold & members very tired
campsites: BC(13/09,5400m),C1(19/09,5800m),C2(21/09,6400m),C3(04/10,7400m),xxx(07/10,8000m)
accidents: None
achievment: 1st blind man's attempt
agency: Alpine Treks
routememo:
  BC slightly above high BC on level site
  C1 on rock on moraine between 2 glaciers
  C2 at Chago glacier
  C3 at Makalu La
  High point at north side of NW Ridge.

  Approach march more difficult for blind member (Guy Gerard) because many stones & some days he took 2-3 hrs longer than normal person; more difficult than on the snow which had danger of avalanches, but climbed to right of it in variation of normal route. No C4 made but tried to reach top from C3; thought not really necessary except to give safety. 1st attempt on 5th and each day there after to 8th. Cordola was last to try (on 8th) of total of 8 members and 1 Sherpa from C3. 

  Gerard reached 7200m on 7th with Coudray. Didn't know if summit party successful, needed help or what was situation in C3; Gerard and 1 Sherpa turned back at 7200m while Coudray went on up. Gerard in snow normal rate of ascent, even fast, but on fixed rope was slow because had not much experience with technique of its use. Gerard dissappointed not to go higher but enjoyed climb and its ambiance. Thinks he will certainly want to come back to Himalaya, perhaps lower mountain.


expid: KANG93301
peakid: KANG
year: 1993
route1: SW Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Erhard Loretan
sponsor: Swiss Kangchenjunga 1993
bcdate: 1993-09-09
smtdate: 1993-10-08
termdate: 1993-10-09
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to snow conditions
campsites: BC(09/09,5350m),xxx(08/10,6300m)
accidents: Sickness
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  High point at plateau.

  2 days after arrived BC both got sick (high fever) after few days, went up 500m, then Loretan very sick, down to Ghunsa, back to BC on 4th Oct and on 9th started acclimatization to 6300m but snow very bad (with deep snow underneath) so took 12 hrs to climb 700m. Were on normal SW Face route and had recovered health but decided to stop because of snow conditions, which higher was very dangerous. Never reached intended route on SW Ridge to S Summit.


expid: MAKA93301
peakid: MAKA
year: 1993
route1: W Pillar
nation: Germany
leaders: Juergen Knappe
sponsor: German Makalu Expedition 1993
bcdate: 1993-09-02
smtdate: 1993-10-02
termdate: 1993-10-07
termnote: Abandoned at 6795m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(02/09,5450m),C1(12/09,5950m),C2(01/10,6550m),xxx(02/10,6795m)
accidents: Gutsch virus & down to yak hut 24th Sept
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at high BC
  C1 at end of rock and below Pt 6150m on Schneider map
  C2 at Australians camp
  High point on West Pillar.

  Spent 3 rest days on way to BC and 10 days at BC for acclimatizing. 11th 2 members up to look for route to C1 and climb started. Worked with Australians in fixing rope. Had good weather only 16-21 Sept and 27 Sept afterwards; winds set in 2 October. Used Australians C2 during rope fixing period (6550m); summit bid not possible because again heavy storm. Thought of changing to normal route, but snow deep there too and French had problems with this route.


expid: MAK293302
peakid: MAK2
year: 1993
route1: S Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Pierre Thevenard
sponsor: Thevenard French Makalu II Expedition
bcdate: 1993-10-05
smtdate: 1993-10-16
termdate: 1993-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to cold winds
campsites: BC(05/10,5400m),C1(07/10,5900m),C2(12/10,6500m),C3(15/10,6900m),xxx(16/10,7200m)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Tip & Top Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Chago Glacier below some ABC's
  C1 same as Coudray
  C2 at Chago Glacier
  High point below Makalu La.

  Only a Sherpa reached Makalu La. Very cold and strong wind. Sherpas collected tent left there by Czechs for this team (for sale). Members reached only 7200m after difficult night at C3 with 80 kph winds blowing snow. There was an attempt for summit by Thevenard, Blanchard and Nima Tamang. Polge on 17th also tried and got only to 7000m.


expid: MAK293301
peakid: MAK2
year: 1993
route1: S Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Francois Leveque
sponsor: French Makalu II Expedition
bcdate: 1993-09-26
smtdate: 1993-10-09
termdate: 1993-10-12
campsites: BC(26/09,4950m),C1(29/09,5600m),C2(07/10,6500m),xxx(09/10,7400m)
accidents: Favrin cerebral edema (evacuated on 13 Oct by helicopter)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
termnote:
  Abandoned at 7400m due to snow conditions and lack of time (knew on 7th couldn't make summit attempt)

routememo:
  BC at Hillary BC
  C1 near some past expedition's ABC.

  As days passed in Oct wind and cold increasing. Made low BC because some problems with the porters and sirdar. C2 established by sirdar on 3 Oct at which time Favrin had had cerebral edema in C1 and had to be evacuated from BC by helicopter, thus also leaving shortage of time. C2 occupied by members only on 7th. 9th tried to reach Makalu La and only one member Mercier reached it; Leveque and Tsuroupa concerned about dangerous snow conditions and retreated at 6800m. 3 nights in C2 and then down and climb finished. Weather was fine to 11 Oct. Had porters only to C1 to bring down C1 on 11th, so members had to bring C2 down on 10th.


expid: EVER93307
peakid: EVER
year: 1993
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Jonathan Tinker
sponsor: OTT (Out There Trekking) Qomolongma Expedition
ascent1: 181,183
countries: Australia, Finland, France, Ireland, Poland, Russia, USA
bcdate: 1993-08-30
smtdate: 1993-10-09
termdate: 1993-10-18
accidents: None except Henize's fatal altitude sickness
achievment: 1st Polish summiter from Tibet
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(30/08,5200m),ABC(08/09,6400m),C1(11/09,7000m),C2A(18/09,7800m),C2B(7900m),C3(08/10,8100m),Smt(09-10/10)

routememo:
  In addition to climbing party of 19, there was Harry Taylor's 4-man party for research: they arrived at BC on 22 or 23 Sept with programme to use a special device brought by NASA's Henize to study the effects of solar radiation on human tissue (for US space program's trip to Mars). They planned to spend a week at BC, another week at ABC and had a vague idea to go to North Col. They acclimatized for a week at BC, then went to ABC on 2 Oct (3 went to ABC - Nish did not, was having difficulty with the altitude; party had spent 2-3 days in Kathmandu and then straight through to BC). At ABC Henize deteriorated very quickly, was carried down to 6000m and died in the early hours of 5 Oct in a Gamov bag from pulmonary edema and buried near where he died. Others in this party then went straight home.


  Chronology:
    Aug 30 - arrived BC 5200m.
    Sep 8  - established ABC 6400m.
    Sep 11 - established C1 7000m North Col.
    Sep 18 - established C2 7800m.
             (subsequent C2 at 7800m reportedly or 7900m)
    Oct 5  - Death of Karl Henize aged 67 from Houston, Texas of pulmonary edema.
             Buried at pre-war British Camp II, 6000m.
    Oct 9  - Summit reached by Maciej Berbeka and Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa
             on 8th Oct C3 made at 8100m and a new variation made directly 
             to the Second Step. 6-1/2 hours to summit. Down to C2 by 
             Berbeka and to C1 by Nuru Sherpa.
    Oct 10 - Summit reached by Jonathan Tinker and Ang Babu Chhiri Sherpa.
             Ang Babu did not use oxygen but slept on it at C3.
             Bad weather precludes further attempts.
    Oct 18 - BC cleared.

  Other points of varying interest:
  1. John and Brigitte Muir reached 7600m together.
  2. Norman Croucher, double-leg amputee, reached 7600m.
  3. Maciej Berbeka, first Pole to climb from Tibet.
  4. Jon Tinker, first Englishman to climb [higher than] Mallory.
  5. Lhakpa Nuru, 4 Everest summits in past 2 years.
  6. We should raise at least US $100,000 for our charities.

  All used oxygen in C3 sleeping and all except Babu Tshering (Ang Babu) used it 
    climbing above C3
  4 climbing Sherpas
  No casualities except Henize
  Dr. McConnell left expedition with Taylor party; had personal problems.


expid: EVER93302
peakid: EVER
year: 1993
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lim Hyung-Chil
sponsor: 1993 Kwangju Jeonnam Qomolangma Expedition Korea
ascent1: 176
bcdate: 1993-08-22
smtdate: 1993-10-06
smttime: 1455
termdate: 1993-10-12
accidents: None
achievment: 1st autumn ascent of classical route on north side
agency: Himalayan Explorers
campsites:
  BC(22/08,5300m),C1(26/08,6050m),C2(27/08,6500m),C3(02/09,7010m),C4(18/09,7900m),C5(05/10,8300m),Smt(06/10)

routememo:
  BC at road
  C3 at North Col
  C4 on North Face
  C5 on North Face (rock)

  After C3 pitched, weather in good, strong wind, many many snowing and many avalanches, same after C4 pitched. 1st summit bid was 23 Sept but not possible reach C5 site because strong winds, 3 more attempts defeated by winds. Finally 5th Oct C5 established and next day Park and Panuru Sherpa (Ngati's younger brother - no previous 8000m summits) to summit. Summit party left C5 4:45 am 6th Oct (Chinese time) and reached top 2:55 pm alone (no one from other expeditions) and down to C4 for Park and Panuru to C3 to sleep.

  No more summit attempts because had gone one week beyond schedule and all climbers very tired. All members except Lee Chang-Soo reached C4 or higher; Lee, journalist, only to C3.

  Summit party left C5 4:45 am 6th Oct (Chinese time) and reached top 2:55 pm alone (no one from other expeditions) and down to C4 for Park and Panuru to C3 to sleep.


expid: EVER93309
peakid: EVER
year: 1993
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Greece
leaders: Konstantinos Tsivelekas
sponsor: Athenian Alpine Club Everest Expedition
bcdate: 1993-09-01
smtdate: 1993-09-11
termdate: 1993-09-13
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to deep dangerous snow
campsites: BC(01/09,5200m),ABC(05/09,6400m),xxx(11/09,7000m)
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  Left KTM 19th Aug but had to wait several days at Shegar for LO and more days at BC for yaks.

  High point reached, just below N Col, not supposed because above was cornice and danger of avalanche. Koreans Sherpa (Ngati and 2) were trying for 2 days to make high camp, gained only 100m in 2 days and snow 2m deep. Pointless to wait, Greeks decided, when would take 15 days for snow to melt & another 15 days for rocks to clear. Weather did get better on 12 Sept but still no desire to wait after so many days doing nothing.

  Only one day when anyone from this expedition went above ABC.


expid: EVER93308
peakid: EVER
year: 1993
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Eloy Sanchez
sponsor: Asturias Everest 1993
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 1993-08-30
smtdate: 1993-09-18
termdate: 1993-10-14
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to bad weather & tents destroyed
campsites: BC(30/08,5400m),ABC(09/09,6400m),C1(17/09,7000m),C2(18/09,8000m),xxx(18/09,8000m)
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C2 on North Ridge above yellow band
  High point at C2 site.

  18th Sept pitched C2 but not sleeping there then or at any later time. Wind and snow fell one week everyday and when people returned to C2, nothing left on 3-4 Oct so made again C2 that day. Again bad weather, so down next day from N Col. No more up because no more tents to remake C2; once more, bad weather.


expid: EVER93303
peakid: EVER
year: 1993
route1: S Pillar-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Juanito Oiarzabal
sponsor: III Expedition Sportive and Scientific Everest 1993
ascent1: 178
bcdate: 1993-08-23
smtdate: 1993-10-07
smttime: 1230
termdate: 1993-10-09
campsites: BC(23/08,5400m),C1(01/09,6000m),C2(07/09,6400m),C3(16/09,7400m),C4(06/10,8100m),Smt(07/10)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 almost at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 at South Pillar
  C4 at South Pillar.

  Icefall route made by Spanish except for one day's work by British team's Sherpas & 2 other Sherpas employed for icefall work. Joined normal route at c8250m. Many problems to make C3 because route very steep & very icy: made c15-16 Sept but bad weather after & had to stay in BC 12 days & returned to C3 on 29th to find it broken but could be repaired & was slept in again only when working on route above C3 (on 5th Oct) & now weather is good. 

  On 7th Oct 1st (successful) party left C4 at 1:30 am & arrived top 12:30 pm, little windy on top; fixed rope that day as they ascended to 8250m waited 2 hrs on Hillary Step while British expedition's Blanco to go up step & he was delayed by oxygen having run out & didn't realize it. Oiarzabal down pillar route & are C4 at 5 pm. 

  2nd party 2 members [Miranda and Apellaniz], Moti Gurung & Thilen left C4 at 1:45 am; Apellaniz stopped at bottom of Hillary Step (8700m) because oxygen finished & waited there & Miranda at South Summit & waited for summiters to join them. Moti stayed with these 2 while Thilen down to C2 from S Summit; Apellaniz wanted more oxygen from Oiarzabal but he had given to Blanco. At 8300m, just before top of fixed ropes, Miranda fell to 6600m or higher; fell down normal route's couloir, breaking his skull and dying very quickly. 
   
  Rojo had circulation problem in foot. Madinabeitia & Ruiz De Infante slept in C3 6th and down with summit parties, abandoning their own summit plans because of Miranda's fatal accident. All down to BC to recover body, which will be sent home tomorrow.


expid: CHOL93401
peakid: CHOL
year: 1993
route1: W Face (to 5000m)
route2: NW Ridge (to 5900m)
nation: Australia
leaders: Armando Corvini
sponsor: Australian Mt. Cholatse 1993 W Face Expedition
countries: UK
bcdate: 1993-11-23
smtdate: 1993-12-05
termdate: 1993-12-08
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to slow progress & snow conditions
othersmts: Island Peak by Lamb and Corvini
accidents: Smith frostbitten finger (probably will heal)
agency: Himalayan Hill Treks
campsites:
  BC(23/11,4800m),ABC(25/11,5250m),Biv1(01/12,5450m),Biv2(02/12,5600m),Biv3(03/12,5700m),Biv4(04/12,5800m),xxx(05/12,5900m)

routememo:
  BC   at west side of terminal moraine at east end of Na and other village
  Biv1 just above Col and start of ridge
  Biv2 on NW Ridge on south side 10-20m below ridge
  High point on NW Ridge.

  W Face huge rock avalanches and icefalls so often. 200m attempt on it, abandoned face and changed to NW Ridge, the Aut 1998 US-NZ route. 5th Dec abandoned climb. Had had lot of deep powdered snow plus problem of getting around lot of gendarmes, slow progress and now tired and would take several more days to get to top at their slow speed. Had only one day's fuel left and Smith frostbite 1 finger on 3rd day of ascent. Spent 5th Dec in biv 4 and on 6th got to BC.


expid: LANG93401
peakid: LANG
year: 1993
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Koichi Ezaki
sponsor: Federation of Sapporo Alpine Associations Langtang Lirung Expedition
approach: Trisuli Bazar->Dunche by road, then on foot->Syabru & Gompa
bcdate: 1993-11-25
smtdate: 1993-12-11
termnote: Abandoned at 6250m due to lack of rope to fix route
othersmts: Naya Kanga (as practice climb)
campsites: BC(25/11,4700m),C1(01/12,5300m),C2(05/12,5900m),xxx(11/12,6250m)
accidents: Only leader's back injured at Ganja La Chuli BC
agency: Above the Clouds
routememo:
  BC at Lirung Glacier on north side of SE Ridge
  C1 on SE Ridge
  C2 on SE Ridge
  High point on SE Ridge.

  Planned C3 at 6600m on ridge but only 4 members and 1 Sherpa to C2; leader's back injured and stayed in BC. Nakata, Sujibayashi and Yuda not technically skilled enough to go above C1. To C1 snow couloir not difficult but above C1, very sharp ridge, mixed rock and snow and all route C1 to C2 with fixed 600m rope needed. Total 1400m rope fixed to 6250m and then had to stop climb because had no more rope. Snow had crust on top therefore had to fix route. "If more fixed rope, I think success." Also on 11th Dec weather changed with strong wind.


expid: AMAD93402
peakid: AMAD
year: 1993
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Jim Williams
sponsor: 1993-1994 Winter Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 142,143
bcdate: 1993-11-25
smtdate: 1993-12-06
smttime: 1330
campsites: BC(25/11,4600m),ABC(30/11,5500m),C1(01/12,5800m),C2(04/12,6000m),C3(05/12,6200m),Smt(06,08/12)
accidents: None
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  Williams' summiters went from C3 to top in between Crouse's people with McDougall 1st and Williams pair 15 minutes later; McDougall descended with them as far as his C3.


expid: GURK93401
peakid: GURK
year: 1993
route1: SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Chun Young-Ho
sponsor: 1993 Korean Gurkarpo Ri Expedition
approach: Langtang Khola->Langshisa Glacier
bcdate: 1993-11-28
smtdate: 1993-12-08
termdate: 1993-12-09
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to route difficulty
campsites: BC(29/11,4200m),ABC(29/11,4800m),C1(02/12,5200m),C2(04/12,5800m),xxx(08/12,6100m)
accidents: None
achievment: 1st known attempt on mountain
agency: Universal Trekking Network
routememo:
  BC at Langshisa Glacier
  C1 at West Ridge
  C2 at West Ridge
  High point at West Ridge.

  Stopped at 6100m because no route beyond: ahead is 500-600m rock wall, to right is steep rock face and to left big crevasse; also no place at 6100m for camp. From 6100m, talked by walkie-talkie to Chu and LO in ABC about wish to change route to try SE Ridge; LO said OK (maybe language problem) but when climbers descended to ABC, LO said not permitted. Now, 9th Dec no time to try NW Ridge because in descent from 6100m had brought down camps and fixed rope and no time to reinstall it all and find out rope fixed: ABC->C1 400m, C1->C2 600m, C2 to 6100m 1500m - all rock with some ice-very difficult knife ridge before 6100m.


expid: AMAD93404
peakid: AMAD
year: 1993
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiroshi Nakamura
sponsor: Showa Printing Ama Dablam Expedition 1993-94 Winter
bcdate: 1993-12-29
smtdate: 1994-01-08
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to wind & lack of time
campsites: BC(29/12,4500m),C1(01/01,5800m),C2(06/01,5950m),xxx(08/01,6300m)
accidents: None
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C2 a biv tent only
  High point at SW Ridge.

  Tried summit bid from C2 8th Jan by Kimoto. Left C2 at 3 am and reached 6300m at 7 am, then turned back because very strong wind, down to BC at 2 pm. Route between C1 to C2 very difficult technical rock climbing on sharp ridge and other 3 members very tired from route-making, did not go above C1. Between 1 and 6 Jan had some snowfall: 20 cm at BC, but main problem was wind. No time to make another summit bid; no plan for this. Kimoto spent nights of 6th and 7th Jan at C2 (not really a proper camp but biv tent only) because strong winds on 7th. Weather changed 26th Dec with jet stream wind stronger.


expid: AMAD93403
peakid: AMAD
year: 1993
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: William Crouse
sponsor: Ama Dablam - Cholatse Expedition
ascent1: 141
bcdate: 1993-11-26
smtdate: 1993-12-06
smttime: 1315
termdate: 1993-12-11
othersmts: Cholatse (had permit, but not attempted)
campsites: BC(26/11,4600m),ABC(30/11,5500m),C1(01/12,5800m),C2(04/12,6000m),Smt(06/12)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  BC at standard site.

  Kearney and Harrington reached 6400m on 10th Dec from C2 and turned back because Harrington slightly ill and both tired. 

  On summit day, 5 members left C1 between 6:30 and 7:30 am, got to top 1:15-3:30 pm and all back to sleep in C2 at 6:30-7 pm to 11 pm ("a nasty gully" to come down at night and complex route for 5 people having to wait for falling rock and ice knocked off by climbers and falling naturally). 

  Williams' summiters went from C3 to top in between Crouse's people with McDougall 1st and Williams pair 15 minutes later and McDougall descended with them as far as this C3. "Really good rock climb, really fun."

  Cholatse: had permit and full fee paid, but Tourism Ministry required a separate liaison officer, which would have required spending at least another $1500 and self-financing team didn't have the funds.


