# exped

expid: AMAD98314
peakid: AMAD
year: 1998
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Heinz Schauer
sponsor: Rosenheim Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 275
bcdate: 1998-10-22
smtdate: 1998-10-27
smttime: 1000
termdate: 1998-10-29
campsites: BC(22/10,4700m),C1(25/10,5700m),C3(26/10,6200m),Smt(27/10)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  27 Oct left camp at 8:00 am, on top at 10:00 am - weather very clear and warm but night of 26/27 very windy, left for summit later than planned, waiting for wind to drop. Slept C3 again and again a lot of wind. 28th from C3 to BC.


expid: AMAD98315
peakid: AMAD
year: 1998
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Bruno Pomati
sponsor: Alice 1998 Ama Dablam
ascent1: 265,270,276
bcdate: 1998-10-15
smtdate: 1998-10-22
smttime: 0900
termdate: 1998-10-26
campsites: BC(15/10,4600m),C1(17/10,5800m),C2(21/10,6100m),C3(22/10,6350m),Smt(22-23,27/10)
accidents: Bazzana had tooth infection and left on 26th with Mesirca to help
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Very good weather: not very cold, no wind. Too many people on summit, too many fixed ropes and ladders by commercial teams.


expid: AMAD98316
peakid: AMAD
year: 1998
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: David Green
sponsor: OTT (Out There Trekking) Ama Dablam Expedition 1998 Autumn
ascent1: 264
countries: Israel, USA
approach: Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 1998-10-12
smtdate: 1998-10-22
smttime: 0702
termdate: 1998-10-24
campsites: BC(12/10,4650m),ABC(16/10,5500m),C1(20/10,5700m),C3(21/10,6200m),Smt(22/10)
accidents: 2 ill, 1 hurt ankle
agency: Nepal Myths & Mountain Trails
routememo:
  ABC established on 13 Oct
  C1  established on 18 Oct.

  Started at 5:30-6:15 on 22 Oct for summit from C3. Got to ABC [on return]; Green, Sherpas, Benegas came [down] to BC.

  Another group got to the summit on 22 Oct (Kekus doesn't know which).

  A Frenchman, a guide from Chamonix, many Spaniards altogether 12-15 were going up on 22nd when they were on the way down.


expid: AMAD98317
peakid: AMAD
year: 1998
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Jacques Charbonnet
sponsor: Swiss Ama Dablam
ascent1: 254
bcdate: 1998-10-15
smtdate: 1998-10-18
smttime: 1000
termdate: 1998-10-19
campsites: BC(15/10,4600m),C1(16/10,5800m),Smt(18/10)
agency: Pabil Treks
routememo:
  BC with "hundreds of tents - small village."

  On 18th down from summit to BC same day. When arrived at BC were already acclimatized by trek to Gokyo. Crowds of other teams on mountain, but no problem for Charbonnets.


expid: AMAD98318
peakid: AMAD
year: 1998
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Stephen Shrader
sponsor: Mountain Madness Ama Dablam Expedition 1998
ascent1: 262,269,274
bcdate: 1998-10-11
smtdate: 1998-10-21
smttime: 1130
termdate: 1998-10-27
campsites: BC(11/10,4500m),C1(15/10,5880m),C2(20/10,6100m),C3(22/10,6400m),Smt(21,23,25/10)
accidents: Nothing serious
achievment: Kellogg's speed ascent on 25 Oct
agency: Mountain Madness
routememo:
  BC at normal site - 130 tents at one time.

  21 Oct summit team went to top from C2, on top at 11:30 am (Kellogg) and other 2 at 3:00 pm, having decided to spread out on route and Kellogg very fast athlete. 

  23rd Oct from C3: Spitalny, Kili Sherpa and Dorje Sherpa at 11:30 am. 

  25th Oct from C3: just before noon all 4 others with Dorje, who had stayed at C3 to help with bringing down tents; Kellogg also same day in 9 hours 40 minutes from BC to top, and then down to BC same day (others slept at C3).
   
  * [possibly a record speed climb: Russell Brice faster]


expid: AMAD98319
peakid: AMAD
year: 1998
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Patrick de Perglas
sponsor: Expedition Nepal 1998 to Ama Dablam
ascent1: 279
bcdate: 1998-11-02
smtdate: 1998-11-06
smttime: 0900
termdate: 1998-11-08
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak (Oct 28)
campsites: BC(02/11,4600m),C1(04/11,5800m),C3(05/11,6400m),Smt(06/11)
achievment: (Very fast ascent)
agency: Nomad Nepal Treks
routememo:
  Before going to Ama Dablam climbed Mera Peak for acclimatization and then across Mingbo La to relax at Ama Dablam BC for one full day's rest before climbing mountain quickly.

  Abadie - team was able to make very rapid ascent because 1) they had spent 9 days already above 5000m at Mera Peak and Mingbo La, and 2) all necessary fixed ropes were in place from earlier expeditions. On 6 Nov, all summiters went to top at 9:00 am from C3 and down to sleep in BC that night.


expid: AMAD98320
peakid: AMAD
year: 1998
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jean Corniglion
sponsor: French to Ama Dablam
bcdate: 1998-10-23
smtdate: 1998-10-26
termdate: 1998-11-01
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to Corniglion's fatal illness
othersmts: Island Peak
campsites: BC(23/10,4600m),C1(26/10,5800m),xxx(26,30/10,5800m)
agency: Nepal Trekking & Expeditions
routememo:
  High point at C1.

  27 Oct to BC. 30 Oct to C1 3 members. 31 Oct 2 Corniglions to BC. 1st Lombard down to BC. Corniglions to BC on 31st because he was sick and Lombard came down next day after BC staff told him Corniglions had left. 

  3 Nov 98 - Trekking agent Sarbendra after talking with Mrs. Corniglion in KTM: the 2 Corniglions came down from C1, leaving Lombard in camp because Mr. Corniglion had headache; they were to go to Thyangboche for 2-3 days rest and returned to climb. At BC he fainted at 6:00 pm on 31st, was unconscious 10-15 minutes, so they immediately set out from BC, he walking with help. His breathing became difficult and at 3:00 am of 1st Nov he died before they had reached Pangboche. Mrs. Corniglion came to KTM on 1st by helicopter with his body. 

  [2 Nov 98 - Mrs. Corniglion by telephone said he died very quickly from altitude sickness on 1 Nov 98].

  3 Nov 98 - Italian Ama Dablam leader Bruno Pomati: Mr Corniglion went to C1 when he was very tired and next day down to BC; after 2-3 days went up again to C1 but had headache, not sleeping - took him 8 hours to reach C1.


expid: AMAD98321
peakid: AMAD
year: 1998
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Mario Pellicciari
sponsor: Zermatt Ski Bums Expedition to Ama Dablam
ascent1: 256
countries: Australia, USA
approach: Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 1998-10-12
smtdate: 1998-10-19
smttime: 0825
termdate: 1998-10-24
campsites: BC(12/10),ABC(15/10,5200m),C3(18/10,6300m),Smt(19/10)
agency: Nepal Myths & Mountain Trails
routememo:
  ABC as set up
  C3  as set up.

  All started at 6:00 am from C3 on 19th. Pellicciari patient came to BC, Molin and Murrays slept at ABC. It was snowy day on 19th. 2 German girls from Henry Todd's group, 3 RAF guys, 1 other guide and client were going up when they were on the way down. C1 and C2 was too crowded and there was no need. Ideally would have preferred to set up and start from C2. 

  There is a mountain unbelievable amount of useless ropes hanging around Grey Tower.


expid: AMAD98322
peakid: AMAD
year: 1998
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Tim Payne
sponsor: Exercise Himalayan Venture 1998 to Ama Dablam
ascent1: 246,250,253,257
approach: Jiri->Namche->Pheriche
bcdate: 1998-10-03
smtdate: 1998-10-16
smttime: 1030
termdate: 1998-10-24
campsites: BC(03/10,4650m),ABC(05/10,5000m),C1(08/10,5700m),C2(14/10,5900m),C3(15/10,6200m),Smt(16-19/10)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  ABC used just to deposit gear
  C1  set up on the 6th Oct
  C2  set up on the 12th Oct
  C3  set up on the 12th Oct.

  Berryman, Scott started from C3 at 7:30 am. Batson of morning started at 6:30 am from C2 slept at C3 and returned to C2 to sleep.

  Thompson started from C3 at 7:30 am and slept at C2.

  Payne, Palmer and Greening started from C3 at 6:00 am and returned to C3 to sleep.

  Venables group started from C3 at 7:00 am and returned to C3 to sleep.

  Rollert from the Canadian group was with Payne on 18th Oct. Russians were coming up. 2 Swiss were also going up.

  This is the 50th anniversary of RAF Mountaineering Association.


expid: AMAD98323
peakid: AMAD
year: 1998
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Jacek Maselko
sponsor: Patagonia Mountain Agency (PMA) Ama Dablam Expedition 1998
ascent1: 280
countries: Sweden, USA
bcdate: 1998-10-29
smtdate: 1998-11-06
smttime: 1330
termdate: 1998-11-11
othersmts: Climbed Chhukung Ri (Maselko and Chiles)
campsites: BC(29/10,4600m),C1(30/10,5700m),C2(07/11,5900m),C3(05/11,6300m),Smt(06/11)
accidents: Johansson accident at BC (he fell down)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Went to Chukkung Ri (Maselko and Chiles) to acclimatize; others not (Poles arrived later, Johansson not feeling well enough to go beyond Pheriche). Marcin slept in C2 on 7th, to C3 at noon on 8th and then down because leaders told him he too slow to go higher (took 6 hours to go from C2 to C3). Maselko and Pawlowski established camps for other members; a falling sharp piece of ice pierced hole in tent at C3.


  Johansson - 13 Nov 98 

  Went to toilet in night of 1 Nov and fell down, has no memory of this period but managed to crowd to his tent and passed out 3 times during the night. Teammates stopped him when his breathing stopped and it resumed. Was soon better and went to C1 but terrible headache and irregular vision sent him on 4 Nov with teammate to aid past at Pheriche, when he passed out 8 times that night. Evacuated to KTM on 5th by helicopter with fellow Swedish members. Tests in KTM do not explain what his problem was but is much better now. Flies to Stockholm on 14th/15th and goes into hospital there for more sophisticated examination.


expid: AMAD98324
peakid: AMAD
year: 1998
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Yves Astier-Perret
sponsor: Thiercelin Ama Dablam 1998
ascent1: 263
bcdate: 1998-10-10
smtdate: 1998-10-21
smttime: 1230
termdate: 1998-10-23
campsites: BC(10/10,4700m),C1(13/10,5850m),C2(20/10,6200m),Smt(21/10)
agency: Numbur Himal Treks
routememo:
  BC at "too many people" there.

  16 Oct tried to reach top from C1 by Yves Astier-Perret, Alexis Monnerot-Dumaine, Etienne Pigne, Olivier Schultzendorff, Eric Thiercelin and got to 6400m, then two members very tired and had to go back; most stayed at C1 that night but Astier to BC while others stayed 2 days at C1 to acclimatize and they too then to BC. 

  20 Oct BC to C2; only 3 of the five actually reached C2 (Yves Astier-Perret, Etienne Pigne and Olivier Schultzendorff). 21st Olivier Schultzendorff sick with sore throat and fever so stayed in C2 while Yves Astier-Perret and Etienne Pigne went to top, where spent an hour taking pictures and back to C2 to sleep. 22nd to BC, bringing Romaneschi of another team who could not descend alone (needed to be roped to someone else - a member of Etienne's commercial team but unable to descend alone); at C2 slept in another team's tent on 20th because no room to pitch own tent but on 21st there was room and slept in our tent.

  Weather very good and never cold; "surprised no accidents" by people unroped.


expid: AMAD98325
peakid: AMAD
year: 1998
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Iceland
leaders: Nikola Kekus
sponsor: Icelandic Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 259
countries: UK
approach: Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 1998-10-12
smtdate: 1998-10-20
smttime: 0800
termdate: 1998-10-23
campsites: BC(12/10,4600m),ABC(15/10,5500m),C3(19/10,6200m),Smt(20/10)
achievment: 1st Icelanders on summit
agency: Nepal Myths & Mountain Trails
routememo:
  18 Oct slept at ABC. 20th returned to BC. Started at 5:30 am on 20th Oct. ABC to C1 was 45 minutes. C2 doesn't have enough space for more than 3 tents. 

  An American got to the summit at 8:30. 4 from Mountain Madness group was going up while they were going down.


expid: AMAD98326
peakid: AMAD
year: 1998
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Roland Maruna
sponsor: First Vienna Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 248,251
approach: Namche->Thyangboche
bcdate: 1998-10-10
smtdate: 1998-10-16
smttime: 1630
termdate: 1998-10-23
campsites: BC(10/10,4600m),C1(14/10,5700m),C2(16/10),C3(16/10,6300m),Smt(16-17/10)
agency: Stupa View Trekkking
routememo:
  C1 got to on Oct 12
  C2 didn't sleep at C2 at all .

  On Oct 16 Bannert went up to the summit from C1 and returned to C3 to sleep. Started from C1 at 10:00 am. Got back to C3 at 6:00 pm. Bannert was the only one on the summit. They didn't meet anyone going down.

  On Oct 17 left C3 at 10:00 am because it was stormy and very cold. Was foggy and cold so couldn't walk faster. On return from summit, slept at C3. Oct 18 went to C1. Oct 19 to BC.

  Tek - Cho Oyu, Shishapangma
  Phurba - Shishapangma, Annapurna I

  2 Americans also got to the summit that day (Oct 17).

  Oct 18 some Americans (maybe from Mountain Madness, Seattle). On 21st Frenchman named Yves with client got to summit.


expid: AMAD98327
peakid: AMAD
year: 1998
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Miguel Angel Romero
sponsor: Club Alpi Palamos Ama Dablam 1998 Expedition
ascent1: 268
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 1998-10-17
smtdate: 1998-10-22
termdate: 1998-10-25
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (Oct 15)
campsites: BC(17/10,4700m),C1(20/10,5700m),C2(21/10,6200m),Smt(22/10)
accidents: On 22 Oct Llatser had to descend from 200m below the summit to C1 due to vomiting and chest pains
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  BC at usual BC site below the ridge
  C2 above towers between the two icefalls.

  On Oct 22 Llatser had to descend from 200m below the summit to C1 due to vomit with blood and chest pain. All three members also vomited at night at C2 and the following day while descending. At BC all got well. The team did not use their ropes as ropes were already fixed. Some places they found as much as nine fixed ropes. They also found a part of wall/tower equipped with ladder. 

  Campsites including BC were clean. Garbage were collected and kept at one area. Sherpas were doing very good job in keeping campsites. BC clean.

  Weather was excellent. There was little snowfall on Oct 17/18.


expid: AMAD98328
peakid: AMAD
year: 1998
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Denis Etienne
sponsor: Stages Expeditions Ama Dablam
ascent1: 266,272
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 1998-10-14
smtdate: 1998-10-22
smttime: 0945
termdate: 1998-10-26
campsites: BC(14/10,4600m),C1(18/10,5600m),C2(21/10,5000m),C3(21/10,6200m),Smt(22-23/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C2 occupied by 2 members only.

  Was a problem on route where large group climbs together slowly and leaves no space for others to cross. So many teams put in ropes and result was "mess" with thin ones, thick ones, old ones, new ones.

  (Alberto Romaneschi did not have to be helped to descend, as other teams told me).


expid: AMAD98329
peakid: AMAD
year: 1998
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Mathias Baumann
sponsor: Independent climber
ascent1: 247
bcdate: 1998-10-07
smtdate: 1998-10-16
smttime: 1230
termdate: 1998-10-19
campsites: BC(07/10,4600m),C1(11/10,5900m),C2(15/10,6400),Smt(16/10)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  45 minutes on top warm good weather, which reached 12:30 pm down to C2 to sleep and BC 17 Oct. Acclimatized well and is very happy with his own small team. 

  He was on Ama Dablam before with Swiss-guided expedition and didn't like the way that leader, Karl Kobler treated his Sherpa.


expid: PUMO98305
peakid: PUMO
year: 1998
route1: SE Face/Ridge-E Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Takaharu Hayashi
sponsor: O.W.A.F. Pumori Expedition 1998
ascent1: 126
bcdate: 1998-10-12
smtdate: 1998-10-22
smttime: 1330
termdate: 1998-10-25
campsites: BC(12/10,5500m),C1(16/10,6200m),C2(21/10,6500m),Smt(22/10)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at upper BC (above lake)
  C1 at top of pillar on SE Face
  C2 at East col.

  Sakakibara on 21st night slept in C1 and started alone for top at 2:40 am at same time as others 2 members and Rahar Tamang left their C2. At 7:00 am at 6800m Sakakibara caught up with other 3 and went to top together at 1:30 pm. Summiters rturned to sleep in their camps they started from. 23rd all in BC.

  O.W.A.F. = Osaka Worker's Alpine Federation


expid: PUMO98306
peakid: PUMO
year: 1998
route1: SE Face/Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Ewen Martin
sponsor: British Alpine Centre Pumori Expedition
bcdate: 1998-10-27
smtdate: 1998-11-02
termdate: 1998-11-07
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to falling seracs
campsites: BC(27/10,5350m),ABC(28/10,5800m),C1(03/11,6200m),xxx(02-03/11,6200m)
agency: Equator Expeditions
routememo:
  ABC above Gorak Shep
  C1  on SE Face
  High point at C1.

  Weather was "far too warm" and caused seracs to fall. One big serac fall came very close to hitting Bunting and Doyle at C1. C1 reached by Martin and Bremner on 2 Oct but didn't sleep there; next day Jenns, Doyle and Bunting up to pitch camp and Doyle and Bunting slept there. After and evening of 3rd constant serac fall and on 4th waited few hours then decided danger too great with continued serac fall and went down and climb abandoned. Watched face for few more days and saw more serac fall.


expid: GYAC98301
peakid: GYAC
year: 1998
route1: SE Pillar-E Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Ludwik Wilczynski
sponsor: Polish Himalaya Gyachung Kang Expedition
bcdate: 1998-09-08
smtdate: 1998-10-03
termdate: 1998-10-11
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to route too difficult
campsites: BC(08/09,5200m),C1(12/09,5400m),C2(20/09,5900m),C3(23/09,6300m),xxx(03/10,7000m)
accidents: Nothing serious
achievment: 1st attempt of S Pillar
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Ngozumba Glacier
  C1 at left side of Ngozumba Glacier on rock
  C2 near large rock in 2nd Icefall
  C3 near foot of SE Pillar.

  Route too difficult for us. Glacier very long with 3 icefalls. C1 on top of first icefall; from BC to C1 2 km by zigzag line. 2nd icefall very dangerous with big crevasses. C3 on plateau at foot of pillar, SE Pillar which wanted to climb in new route. After 23 Sept every day for 7-8 days snowfall and stayed BC. When did climb, did so at night because days were too hot and avalanching. At 9:00 am 400m before C3 on 1 Oct avalanche hit Lech Flaczynski and Boguslaw because they were too late, having taken 15 hours to move in deep soft snow, but not hurt. Found C3 tent covered by 1m new snow. Route planned led to peak 7650m on East Ridge and thence westwards along ridge to highest peak; about 2 km from top of pillar to main peak. Could find no place to put tent at about 7000m and now food supplies very low so climb finished. Route is possible but need more and better climbers.


expid: GYAC98302
peakid: GYAC
year: 1998
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Takashi Shiro
sponsor: Osaka Eiho Alpine Club Gyachung Kang Expedition
bcdate: 1998-09-17
smtdate: 1998-10-11
termdate: 1998-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to deep snow, lack of snowbars and time
campsites: BC(17/09,5000m),ABC(18/09,5000m),C1(04/10,5700m),C2(08/10,6400m),xxx(11/10,6700m)
accidents: Nothing except Naoi: little sickness
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC  at Ngozumba Glacier west end of Gyabu
  ABC north or east of lake
  C1  northwest of Nup La, east of Lungsampa Glacier
  C2  on snow face on west side of ridge from Nup La
  High point at snow face above C2.

  Ngozumba Glacier very difficult and up and down up and down icefall. To C2 went to Nup La and up snow face of the South Ridge ending (starting) at Nup La. C3 planned for SE Ridge of Gyachung Kang at 6800m but stopped 100m below because deep snow and had not enough snowbars, so slept in C2 11th Oct and climb finished. 12th to C1, 13th to BC.


expid: KTEG98301
peakid: KTEG
year: 1998
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Francois Pallandre
sponsor: Expedition Jeunes Caf/FFME
ascent1: 12th
approach: Hinku Valley->Tangnag->Hinku Glacier
bcdate: 1998-10-11
smtdate: 1998-10-27
smttime: 1100
termdate: 1998-11-01
campsites: BC(11/10,4900m),ABC(13/10,5300m),Biv(23/10,6000m),Biv(26/10,6500m),Smt(27/10)
achievment: New route - no one attempted NE Face unless Japanese did without success
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at south end of Hinku Nuptse Glacier near Mera Peak BC
  ABC at Hinku Nuptse Glacier at base of rock cliff
  Biv at shoulder of NE Face.

  Started to climb from ABC: 3 members started to fix start of face 19 Oct and fixed 300m and made big biv place on snowband at about 6000m (big for 7 climbers). Very technical route, very steep thin ice. Spent 2 nights here (22nd and 24th). Fixed 150-180m of rope above biv. Climbed to shoulder of ridge and here at 6550m on left part of the face 7 people could biv here 26th, 150m below top. From biv to top and back to biv; started up 8:30 am, on top 11:00-11:30 am and back to biv about 1:00 pm and rapelled down face to BC in evening about 6:00 pm. Cleaned face of all rope but left anchors for rapelling down.


expid: PUTH98301
peakid: PUTH
year: 1998
route1: NE Face over NE Ridge-E Face
nation: France
leaders: Jean Annequin
sponsor: Allibert Putha Hiunchuli 1998
bcdate: 1998-10-21
smtdate: 1998-10-27
termdate: 1998-10-31
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to dangerous snow conditions
campsites: BC(21/10,4800m),C1(22/10,5300m),C2(25/10,5950m),xxx(27/10,6300m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Kaya Khola east of Kangtokal
  C1 at left side of glacier east of point 6127m
  C2 on NE Ridge west of point 6172m.

  27 Oct stopped at 6300m because were setting off slab avalanches (1 by leader, 2 by Sherpas) so down to C2 that night and BC 28 Oct and climb finished. Annequin and Sherpas had gone to 6300m ahead of members to test snow conditions.


expid: SAIP98302
peakid: SAIP
year: 1998
route1: NW Glacier to NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Rebecca Bendick
sponsor: American Saipal Gravity Expedition
approach: Surkhet->Simikot->NW along Humla Karnali R->S on small R->Chala
bcdate: 1998-10-28
smtdate: 1998-11-04
termdate: 1998-11-06
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to deep powder snow
campsites: BC(23/10,4200m),ABC(30/10,5100m),Biv(01/11,5900m),Biv(02/11,6200m),xxx(04/11,6700m)
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  BC  north of mountain and its north glacier
  ABC between north and northwest glacier
  Biv above 2nd Saipal icefall of northwest glacier (in snow crevasse)
  Biv at plateau
  High point on NE Ridge.

  Decided not to try NE Ridge because there was lot of new snow (1.5m of new snow) on it and it was long ridge. Reached ridge at highest point on 4 Nov where there were 2m of snow. Had been big snowstorm 2 days before reaching BC. Turned back because of "bottomless" powder snow at 6700m; cold winds now. Slept 4th at 6200m bivvy and 5th at ABC. Would have climbed NE Ridge if snow not been so deep. Would like to go back to same route.


expid: EVER98302
peakid: EVER
year: 1998
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Kaji Sherpa
sponsor: Speed Everest 1998
ascent1: 307 disputed
bcdate: 1998-09-18
smtdate: 1998-10-17
campsites: BC(18/09,5350m),C2(27/09,6400m),C2(01/10,6400m),C4(16/10,7900m),Smt(17/10)
accidents: Tashi very slight frostbite
achievment: Speed of record - 20 hours 24 minutes
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC with other team
  C4 at South Col.

  Did just practice climbs to C3 on Lhotse Face but not slept there. Did a lot of climbing up and down and even trekking below BC getting into condition. 16 Oct 4:00 pm from BC started up alone. Climbed alone from BC to South Col; arrived C2 6:30 pm 16th, stayed 5 hours to eat and drink and change clothes. 7:00 pm 16th up from C2 and arrived at C4 Oct 17th 2:30 am after stopping at 7600m for 1 hour because of wind. At 3:00 am Kaji, Tashi and Kami set out from C4; Kami stopped at 8700m below South Summit (it was cold, his oxygen regulator damaged and oxygen leaking) at 8:30 am. Kami and Tashi used oxygen up from South Col but Kaji only in descent from South Summit. Kaji and Tashi to top 12:24 pm with Tashi 5-10 minutes ahead. "I am very, very tired." At top saw scarfs and poles but not prisms. Photo taken by Tashi just below these items from previous expeditions. At top 4 minutes only because Tashi afraid that bad weather could come very quickly and Kaji very tired. Tashi gave Kaji Tashi's oxygen at South Summit because Kaji very tired and they wanted to get back to C4 quickly. Back to C4 at 4:00 pm and slept in C2 (9:00 pm arrival) where good food supply and Kaji stopped using oxygen at arrival at C4/S Col. Kaji also stopped at South Summit in ascent while Tashi fixed rope where route not easy with crust on deep snow above S Summit to Hillary Step; Kaji stopped one hour while rope being fixed. Kami and Tashi had made all routes above South Col; Tashi very strong." Kaji followed in their tracks slowly. Kami waited at Col and made hot water and tea. All three men down from Col together.

  "I have confidence in my speed" and can do climb in 18 hours - want to do it in 2 years before strength diminishes with age.

  26 Oct 98 - Matsumoto, leader of Japanese expedition on Everest at same time: "I don't think they [Spaniard Pitarch and Kaji] reached summit." Kaji's teammates oxygen supply "pipe" froze and broke before "summit" and Kaji then alone with only good oxygen set. Kaji's "a liar": lied about not using Japanese radio and so many other things" - "where's the evidence? no pix."

  Oxygen used: 
     Kaji from South Summit to C4 in descent;
     Tashi and Kami in ascent from C4


expid: AMAD98330
peakid: AMAD
year: 1998
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Reinhard Putz
sponsor: DAV Summit Club Expedition 1998 to Ama Dablam
ascent1: 281
countries: Germany
bcdate: 1998-11-05
smtdate: 1998-11-09
smttime: 1510
termdate: 1998-11-11
othersmts: Climbed Gokyo Peak after Ama Dablam
campsites: BC(05/11,4600m),C1(07/11,5600m),C2(08/11,5800m),Smt(09/11)
accidents: `
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  8th Spitzer worried about loose rocks and down BC; other 2 members to C1 only; too windy and then not feeling well and down to Pangboche, so only leader to top (clouds and strong wind at first but after waiting till 8:00 am weather became fine and he went up and reached top at 3:10 pm and back to C2 at 6:30 pm; down to BC 10th. Birds had taken food from C2 while Putz out of it to summit and left him only tea.


expid: EVER98303
peakid: EVER
year: 1998
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Juan Corro
sponsor: Castellon Costa Azahar Everest 1998
ascent1: 306 disputed
bcdate: 1998-09-06
smtdate: 1998-10-15
termdate: 1998-10-19
campsites: BC(06/09,5350m),C1(14/09,6200m),C2(20/09,6500m),C3(13/10,7300m),C4(14/10,7900m),Smt(15/10)
accidents: Pitarch most fingers and toes frostbitten (horseback BC to Namche)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 above top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  14th Oct C4 occupied by 2 Japanese on this permit and Corro, Pitarch and Sherpas Dorje (Everest X6, Thamo), Gyalzen (Everest X2, Phurte) and Mingma (20 years old, 1st time on South Col, Namche); only 4 tents total. 15th Corro stayed in tent at Col because very tired and Mingma also stayed in tent because very tired and throat problem and not expected to sleep in C4 and Gyalzen in tent as Corro's climbing partner. Corro and Gyalzen left at 9:00+ am down to lower camp. Dorje up with Pitarch and Japanese party at 1:20 am and Dorje turned down at 8300m and in extremely dangerous weather (very windy) but Pitarch "crazy," made "very risky decision" to continue. Corro and others members "very angry" but "ambition, high altitude affecting his decisions" made Pitarch to carry on says Corro. Pitarch says it was his only chance to climb Everest but now realizes dangerous decision and unhappy now that he destroyed team's decision. If winds had not abated at about 8:30 am he would have died. Pitarch says he reached top at 10:30 am and back in C4 2:30 pm. His footsteps had disappeared when he came down because had started snowing before reaching S Summit. At time he was on summit, he thinks snow in area was only from wind blowing it around - on top found on snow stakes and scarves tied to metal rod - stayed only one minute because panicked by feeling very weak and only wished to go down (did not realize toes and fingers frozen). Corros trusts Pitarch's honesty and believes him regarding summit success; know each other as good friends since childhood. Pitarch was snowblinded on 16th in very slow descent without ability to see ropes; Sherpas helped him to C2 where he got better on 17th. On his ascent, Pitarch's oxygen system froze and broke at bottom of Hillary Step.

  22 Oct 98 - Ken Noguchi leader of Japanese team on Everest at same time: 

  Noguchi and others from his team went up with Pitarch and his Sherpa on 15th in joint attempt to reach summit. Noguchi turned back but Pitarch went on up alone despite fact he was very tired there were no fixed ropes and wind very strong. Leader by walkie-talkie told him to come down but Pitarch didn't listen and continued up slowly, returned to Col 4:00 pm with summit claim. Was impossible to see above 8500m because of cloud cover. Kaji Sherpa, who claimed summit on 17th, reported Pitarch's footprints stopped above South Summit.

  26 Oct 98 - Matsumoto, leader of another Japanese team then on Everest: 

  "I don't think they (Pitarch and Kaji) reached summit" - no pictures, no evidence. Pitarch couldn't see properly after his oxygen supply stopped; he "made error." Matsumoto's sirdar watched summit ridge through binoculars from C2 about an hour from 10:17 am and saw no one there although ridge clearly visible. 

  Spaniard Scales Everest
  by Elizabeth Hawley

  Kathmandu, Oct. 16 (Reuters) - The first ascent of Everest in this autumn season was made by a Spanish mountaineer Thursday, according to news from the Nepalese tourism ministry today.
     The ministry announced that Carlos Pitarch, a 31-year-old lawyer from Borriol, Castellon, reached the highest point on earth at 10:30 am on Thursday, Pitarch left the camp at 7900 meters' altitude (25,900 ft) for his final climb up the Southeast ridge to the 8848 meters high (29,028 ft) summit of the Everest.
     He spent only one minute on the top of the world because of extremely strong winds and returned to camp at 2:30 pm, the ministry said.
     There are two Japanese teams attempting to reach Everest's summit this week or next, and also one Nepalese Sherpa climber, Kaji Sherpa, who aspires to make a speed ascent in only 18 hours from base camp to summit.
     On the north side of Everest, there were five parties trying to reach the summit this autumn, but all failed to do so, most of them  reporting that the winds were so fierce it was impossible for them to battle their way to the summit.
     Pitarch is a member of a five-member Spanish team led by Juan Corro from Benicasim, Castellon. The ministry did not know whether more members of this expedition were planning their own summit bids.
     Pitarch is the 31st Spaniard and the 809th person from any country ever to reach Everest's summit.


expid: EVER98304
peakid: EVER
year: 1998
route1: N Face (Japanese Couloir) (to 7100m)
route2: N Face (Great Couloir) (to 8500m)
nation: Japan
leaders: Masafumi Todaka
sponsor: Fos Chomolungma Expedition
bcdate: 1998-07-31
smtdate: 1998-09-16
termdate: 1998-09-22
termnote: Abandoned at 8500m due to exhaustion
othersmts: Chengzeng Peak
accidents: No accidents, 'just tired'
agency: Cosmo Treks
campsites:
  BC(31/07,5150m),ABC(04/08,5600m),C1(16/08,5900m),Biv(09/09,6650m),Biv(14/09,7600m),C4.Biv(15/09,8200m),xxx(16/09,8500m)

routememo:
  C1 at foot of Changtse's West Ridge 
  Biv at bottom of Great Couloir
  Biv in Great Couloir
  High point above Great Couloir.

  Raining & snowing daily to 20 Aug. Acclimatization climb on West Ridge of Changzheng Peak but not to top because of avalanche danger. 25 Aug weather changed and 27th to C1 at foot of Changtse's West Ridge and 28 started up North Face to checking snow conditions by Japanese and Australian routes and decided Japanese Couloir good and back to C1. 29th 3:00 am started up couloir (inside couloir) and 8:00 am at 7100m but very hard; decided could go up this route but not descend it so back to C1 and to ABC. Also many snow showers on this couloir route. Waited at ABC for good chance to Great Couloir. 1st week Sept weather not good; snowing and earthquake on 4 Sept 2:30 am and in daylight saw slab avalanching had taken place and this good chance. 8 Sept to C1 and 9 Sept up to 6650m to Changtse shelf and hoped make attack so not able to go up with snow falling so to ABC on 11th Sept. 13th to C1, 14th 2:10 am left C1 and reached 7600m at 1:46 pm, when snow became soft and had to stop short of day's goal of 7800m. 15th 7:30 am started up from biv site with only biv sack; at 3:00 pm arrived 8200m; 16th at 3:30 am up again but my condition not so good because no sleeping bag so very sleepy and needed to keep energy for descent. "Satisfied with feeling of nearness with nature" and chose descent; safely vs summit; 7:30 am at 8500m and 20 minutes stayed there thinking and decided to go down and to plateau 6000m at bottom of face at 4:15 pm (2:00 pm had descended to 6000m) and reached C1 at 6:30 pm (wife had joined him at 6300m - he was "very tired"). ABC in 17th and climb finished. "Must think deeply" about return to Everest. 10 years ago would probably have gone for summit but now he was more concerned about safe descent. Todaka was alone on face at all times.

  30 Sept 98 - French Everest climber Sam Beaugey said Todaka's effort "a great attempt."


expid: EVER98305
peakid: EVER
year: 1998
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Maria Jesus Lago
sponsor: Independent climber on Everest
bcdate: 1998-08-24
smtdate: 1998-09-25
termdate: 1998-10-06
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to bad snow conditions and wind
campsites: BC(24/08),ABC(29/08),C1(07/09,7000m),C2(24/09,7600m),C3(25/09,8100m),xxx(25/09,8100m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C3 slept in by Sherpa only
  High point at site of C3.

  25th went down to ABC while Dawa Sherpa slept in C3. Lago did not go up again, but Sherpa up to C3 to bring down gear on 3 Oct.


expid: EVER98306
peakid: EVER
year: 1998
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Ken Noguchi
sponsor: Noguchi 1998 Sagarmatha Expedition
bcdate: 1998-09-07
smtdate: 1998-10-15
termdate: 1998-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 8350m due to wind
campsites: BC(07/09),C1(14/09,6000m),C2(20/09,6400m),C3(13/10,7300m),C4(14/10,7900m),xxx(15/10,8350m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 at South Col
  High point on face below South Summit.

  15th Oct Noguchi and 1 Spaniard with 4 Japanese Noguchi Sherpas and 2 Spanish Sherpas made summit bid. Left C4 at 1:30 am on 15th; at 8350m at 4:00 am and very strong wind and very cloudy. Waited one hour for improved weather. At this time all Sherpas and Japanese went down to lower camps. Japanese and their Sherpas to C2 and Spanish Sherpas stayed at C4; had arrived at C4 6:30 am and C2 4:00 pm. 

  Now no more climbing by Japanese team because strong winds and difficult to bring up oxygen again. Delay in getting up mountain by avalanche which destroyed Japanese, Spain and Tibet (Lhotse) tents in C3 on 27 or 28 Sept.

  Noguchi wants to come next spring, when more people will be making route.


expid: LHOT98301
peakid: LHOT
year: 1998
route1: W Face
nation: China
leaders: Samdrup
sponsor: China-Tibet Expedition to 14 Mountains of 8000m
ascent1: 49th
bcdate: 1998-09-08
smtdate: 1998-10-13
smttime: 0830
termdate: 1998-10-18
campsites: BC(08/09,5350m),C1(5950m),C2(18/09,6430m),C3(22/09,7100m),C4(27/09,7900m),Smt(13/10)
accidents: Nothing serious
achievment: 1st Chinese ascent
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site for Everest
  C1 at top of Icefall (only a depot)
  C2 in West Cwm
  C3 on West Face
  C4 near bottom of Couloir.

  Planned 28th summit bid Akebu, Lobsang Yonden, Ren Na and Tsering Dorje from C4 but avalanche covered C4 at 1:00 pm on 27th and 3 members inside but Ren Na outside and could dig out tent and men inside, freezing his fingers slightly. Slept in sleeping bags under the stars and on 27th down to C2. Members in C3 down to C2 26th night because their tent also covered by same avalanche and tent poles broken but members got out. 28th all down to BC. 

  10 Oct started up again after snowfall and members rested and recuperated. 12 Oct C4 reached by Dachung, Lodue, Pemba Tashi, Ren Na and Tshering Dorje and next day on top; left C4 at 4:00 am and on true (left-hand) summit at 8:30 am, stayed 55 minutes in wind but very clear weather (from glacier below BC leader using telescope could see men on summit and national flag they were holding blow away) - went to left-hand (snow) summit.


expid: EVER98308
peakid: EVER
year: 1998
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Craig Calonica
sponsor: Independent climber on Everest
bcdate: 1998-09-02
smtdate: 1998-09-24
termdate: 1998-10-11
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to dangerous snow conditions
campsites: BC(02/09),xxx(24/09,7000m)
accidents: Keepa rope burns on hands
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  High point at North Col (C1 site).

  Calonica got bad stomach trouble in ABC; unable to eat and dehydrating and down to BC 17th and then up to ABC 22th, up to C1 site 24th and left gear and down to ABC. Snowfall started 25th and never able to push higher and Calonica left ABC only to leave mountain while Sherpas went to retrieve gear at N Col. They set off slab avalanche in descent and were sent down 30m; Keepa 6m and suffered rope burns on hand (about 30 Sept). Face too dangerous to attempt another bid: with snow continuing to fall, new slab avalanching likely.


  14 Oct 98 - Simone Moro (Italian Ev N): 

  Calonica not motivated to climb high, spends much time and attention to his daily website reports and lining up sponsors for future climbs. His ABC is an office where he works for hours. He goes now to Ama Dablam to get good pictures of himself. [He went to Ama Dablam BC but did no climbing, leader Henry Todd said].


expid: EVER98309
peakid: EVER
year: 1998
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jerome Ruby
sponsor: Wahimea Everest Expedition
bcdate: 1998-08-24
smtdate: 1998-09-25
termdate: 1998-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to high winds
campsites: BC(24/08),ABC(01/09,6400m),C1(06/09,7000m),C2(24/09,7850m),xxx(25/09,04/10,8100m)
accidents: Jerome Ruby pulmonary edema; Samuel Beaugey pneumonia
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  ABC at normal site for North Col
  C1  at North Col.

  Went to North Face ABC to see conditions and decided too much snow and did not attempt face at all and back to BC. 2 days in BC for acclimatization. 10 Sept Rhem and Beaugey down from C1 to ABC by snowboard in good fresh snow. Ruby reached C1 once on 18th Sept when Beaugey went up also. Ruby did not stay in C1 because felt very tired but Beaugey stayed with 3 Sherpas and on 19th Beaugey and 3 Sherpas to 7850m where deposited tents, etc and down to ABC. 23rd to C1, 24th Beaugey and Rhem to C2 (no Sherpas), but Beaugey had bad night (chest) but both tried for top on 25th. Beaugey stopped at 8000m and snowboarded to C1 while Rhem to 8100m where many windslabs were and no fixed rope and he also down; together to ABC on 25th. 19th Ruby to BC and 21st left BC for KTM because had pulmonary edema. 26th Beaugey with pneumonia to BC and 27th left for KTM. Rhem to make summit bid in early Oct. 


  Moro - 14 Oct 98 

  Rhem on 4 Oct reached 8100m again from ABC. Moro with as far as 7600m. Rhem retrieved snowboard and gear at 8100m and reported to Moro that every 100m higher, wind strength and therefore impossible to get to top; both down to ABC same day and climb finished.


expid: EVER98301
peakid: EVER
year: 1998
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Sergio Martini
sponsor: Independent climber on Everest
bcdate: 1998-08-24
smtdate: 1998-09-25
termdate: 1998-10-09
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to deep frequent snow deposits & then strong wind
campsites: BC(24/08,6400m),ABC(29/08,6400m),C1(08/09,7000m),C2(24/09,7600m),xxx(25-26/09,8100m+)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C2 at North Ridge
  High point on North Face.

  Martini up to 8000m and higher several times but did not sleep above C2. Deposited supplies for C3 at 8200m but never pitched camp. First weeks weather very good but much deep snow at higher altitude and avalanche danger. Worked with Spanish woman's Sherpa to fix rope to about 8100m. On 26th Sept down to ABC to rest and because snow very deep (had used rock pitons in fixing rope on rock). 27th snow falling and bad weather continued several days. 

  1st Oct wind began but on 4 Oct [Martini] went to Col with Moro who went on to C2 found camp destroyed and returned to ABC. 5th Oct Martini alone to C2 with new gear but wind too strong so down to ABC and decided climb finished.


expid: EVER98307
peakid: EVER
year: 1998
route1: SW Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Norichika Matsumoto
sponsor: Southwest Face Sagarmatha Kansai 1998 Expedition
countries: Nepal
bcdate: 1998-08-26
smtdate: 1998-10-11
smttime: 8040
termdate: 1998-10-19
termnote: Abandoned at 8040m due to lack of supplies and time
accidents: Nothing serious (snow, falling ice pieces, but not hurt)
agency: Cosmo Treks
campsites:
  BC(26/08,5350m),C1(05/09,6000m),C2(12/09,6400m),C3(20/09,6900m),C4(05/10,7550m),C5(12/10,8040m),xxx(11-12/10,8040m)

routememo:
  C1 near top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on SW Face
  C4 on SW Face
  C5 on SW Face first snow field above Col.

  Not above C5 because no climbing rope there and no time to bring up rope; date of flying to Japan fixed for return to jobs and food and fuel running out and take 2 days to move up from C2 to C5. 

  Sherpas went to C5 site on 11 Oct to leave supplies (Nima Temba, Kami Rita and Ang Phurba) but immediately descended because site very sound. 12th Oct Komoto and Matsumoto occupied C5 for one night and then down.


expid: AMAD98331
peakid: AMAD
year: 1998
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jacques Mottin
sponsor: Ama Dablam Expedition 1998
ascent1: 282
bcdate: 1998-11-09
smtdate: 1998-11-15
smttime: 1045
termdate: 1998-11-16
campsites: BC(09/11,4600m),C1(14/11,5765m),Smt(15/11)
accidents: 13th Martin stomach trouble and did not get all the way to C1
agency: Himalayan Country
routememo:
  BC with "hundreds of tents - small village."

  15th 3:45 am Mottin left C1 for top and 2 Sherpas Nima and Rinje at 4:00 am. Mottin rested at C2 site and then on to top (at C2 as day light breathing about 6:00 am) and at top 10:45 am. Sherpas turned back at 6300m because Rinje, a novice on mountain was tired and had chest problem. Mottin back at C1 3:15 pm and too tired to return to BC but couldn't sleep because climb had required much concentration.


expid: LSHR98301
peakid: LSHR
year: 1998
route1: SE Ridge-SE Face-E Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Vladimir Savkov
sponsor: Kuzbass Russia Lhotse Shar Expedition
ascent1: 9th
approach: Via Chhukung
bcdate: 1998-09-17
smtdate: 1998-11-01
smttime: 1700
termdate: 1998-11-03
campsites: BC(17/09,5200m),C1(20/09,5700m),C2(25/09,6500m),C3(10/10,7300m),C4(16/10,7800m),Smt(01/11)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at west side of Lhotse Shar Glacier east of Island Peak
  C1 at start of SE Ridge
  C2 at glacier of SE Ridge
  C3 at glacier of SE Face
  C4 at glacier of SE Face.

  27 Sept avalanche near C2 and quickly to BC and wait for better weather (snowfall to stop). 5 Oct made camp at 7000m and moved camp to 7300m on difficult SE Face. Icefall which changed very quickly and needed re-fixing rope; fixed 5000m rope and needed more but had no more. After C4 again bad weather (snowfall and very strong wind) and summit bid on 17 Nov stopped at 8000m and down to BC and Dingboche. 

  Other members tried for top about 25 Oct from C4. Winds and cold stopped them on arrival at East Ridge at 8019m and down to BC. 

  On 1 Nov success: 26 Oct from BC to C1; arrived C4 29 Oct; tried for top on 30th but cold and winds stopped them at 8100m and back to C4; waited in C4 while very strong winds covered tent with snow. 1st Nov very good weather: no wind, no snowfall, very clear but very cold (-28 degrees C). Left C4 1 Nov 6:00 am, reached top on very route with no rope to fix on last 500m at 5:00 pm. Did not reach C4 till 4:00 am in full moonlight moving very slowly (-40 degree night) now climb finished because no more time returned BC 2 Nov. Had "dreamed" of traversing to Lhotse Middle Summit but would need a C5 near summit, route would be very difficult and probably better to try from Lhotse Main Summit.

  20 Nov 98 - Russian mountain guide returned from trekking peak: Russian Press reported (early in autumn or earlier) team planned traverse Lhotse Shar -> Lhotse Middle Peak -> Lhotse Main Peak -> Everest.


expid: BARU98301
peakid: BARU
year: 1998
route1: SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Richard Jackson
sponsor: Aspen Baruntse Expedition
ascent1: 47th
bcdate: 1998-10-09
smtdate: 1998-10-18
smttime: 1300
termdate: 1998-10-23
campsites: BC(09/10,5400m),C1(12/10,6100m),C2(17/10,6500m),Smt(18/10)
accidents: Only 1 death before BC
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
routememo:
  BC at small lake west-southwest of West Col
  C1 at West Col
  C2 at basin below point 6730m southeast of summit.

  18 Oct left C2 4:20 am and on top 1:00 pm. Upper part of ridge technically difficult with many seracs. Fixed 600m of rope above C2. 2nd summit team of 4 were in C2 to go to top on 19th, but 30 cm of snow dumped on C2 and high winds during night of 18-19th, so down to BC. Decided 20th to abandon climb because upper part required guiding and Jackson not prepared to do it following his involvement in fatal illness and generally motivation dropped after success on 18th in team effort. Mountain has changed and because more difficult with much snow overloading seracs on ridge causing them to go crashing down.

  The day before BC reached, Wille came in camp at 5000m tired and next day, 9 Oct Jackson walked with him to lowest point reachable that day 4500m. 10 Oct Wille showed serious symptoms of altitude sickness but able to move with difficulty to 4300m where he was given all possible aid, but he died at noon on 11th. Jackson came with body to KTM on 10th and returned to expedition.


expid: BARU98302
peakid: BARU
year: 1998
route1: SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Pierre Frachon
sponsor: Atalante Baruntse 1998
ascent1: 48th
bcdate: 1998-10-27
smtdate: 1998-11-02
termdate: 1998-11-09
campsites: BC(27/10,5200m),C1(31/10,6050m),C2(01/11,6400m),Smt(02/11)
accidents: Molinari frostbitten fingers (1 will be cut)
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 near West Col
  C2 before SE Ridge.

  2nd summit bid on 5 Nov by Lelong, Frachon, Chatelet and Berrux and another on 8 Nov by Devaux, Lelong and Berrux, but too much wind. Couldn't go above C2 both times.


expid: BARU98303
peakid: BARU
year: 1998
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Karl Heinz Triendl
sponsor: Austrian Baruntse Expedition 1998
bcdate: 1998-10-19
smtdate: 1998-10-25
termdate: 1998-10-27
termnote: Abandoned at 7050m due to lateness in the day
campsites: BC(19/10,5300m),C1(23/10,6100m),xxx(25/10,7050m)
agency: Highland Expeditions
routememo:
  BC at small lake west of West Col
  C1 at West Col
  High point at 7050m near South Summit.

  First time above West Col went to site for C2 at 6600m left rope, etc. there and down to sleep in C1 on 24th. Next time on 25th went for summit attempt without sleeping in C2 and arrived at 7050m, but now to late to go on up, so down to BC and climb finished with no more time left.


expid: BARU98304
peakid: BARU
year: 1998
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Gerhard Osterbauer
sponsor: Reichensteiner Baruntse Expedition
bcdate: 1998-10-05
smtdate: 1998-10-09
termdate: 1998-10-10
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to lack of team strength
campsites: BC(05/10,5450m),xxx(09/10,5900m)
accidents: Osterbauer and Libicky never reached BC because of illness
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC west of West Col near lake.

  Approach route was via Hinku Valley and Mera La: was not possible because Hinku Valley's lake overflowed 100m high natural dam and avalanche of water and big stones took away houses and lodges and bridges and trail. So had to go by new route over ridges and their steep slopes to Jangnak (yak herders area with 2-3 tea shops) taking half-day extra time. Tried to put camp on West Col but as approached Col, decided mountain too difficult for just two remaining members and turned around at 5900m on 9th. Had made earlier approach to Col to 5700m on 7th but not well acclimatized and exhausted. No other teams on mountain at this time.


expid: BARU98305
peakid: BARU
year: 1998
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Jean Tafforeau
sponsor: Expedition CAB Baruntse 1998
approach: Zakrawala Pass 4600m->Anku Tangnag at foot of Mera then Mera
bcdate: 1998-10-09
smtdate: 1998-10-18
termdate: 1998-10-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to too mnay broken cliffs, ice crevasses and not enough fixed rope
campsites: BC(09/10,5450m),C1(13/10,6100m),C2(17/10,6450m),xxx(18/10,6900m)
accidents: Tafforeau found the BC too high for acclimatization
agency: Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
routememo:
  BC at Zakrawald Pass 4600m, Anku Tangnag on foot of Mera, then Mera La (5400m)
  C1 at West Col
  C2 set up.

  Mountain conditions has totally changed. The Americans carried on and 2 got to the summit alpine-style. On 18th night it was snowing, so it got difficult to go up. To go higher after that meant going to BC getting rope and climbing up again. Time did not permit this.

  One Austrian expedition got up to C1. Because their porters struck, they were tired. The other Austrians were after them (20 Oct). An American had died during the approach so Vancampenhoudt was under shock.

  There was powder snow after 6900m and they had used the ropes earlier. It may have been possible to go up but would have been difficult without rope.


expid: DROM98301
peakid: DROM
year: 1998
route1: S Pillar of Central Smt
nation: UK
leaders: Doug Scott
sponsor: British to Drohmo
bcdate: 1998-10-01
smtdate: 1998-10-08
termdate: 1998-10-09
othersmts: Climbed Tengkoma (TENG-983-01)
achievment: 1st ascent of Central Summit
agency: Explore Himalaya
primid: TENG98301
campsites:
  BC(01/10,5400m),ABC(02/10,5800m),C1.Biv(05/10,6270m),C2.Biv(06/10,6600m),C3.Biv(07/10,6750m),Central.Smt(08/10,6855m)

routememo:
  BC  at "rock camp" of Tengkoma
  ABC at glacier camp.

  2nd Oct to head of glacier at foot of South Face for ascent of South Pillar and camped here. Fixed 200m slope from glacier to foot of pillar on 3rd Oct. Mountain 3 km long with about 5 peaks. 4th took gear up, ropes and dumped at bottom of pillar. 5th went up ropes, pulled 2 ropes out and climbed on steep pillar 4 pitches to 5270m and biv. 6th did more pitches up pillar to ice grotto and biv here at 6600m. 7th 4 more pitches to above "cauliflower" on pillar at about 6750m. 8 Oct to top of pillar and then left (west) on east-west ridge to central summit, 6855m high, which could be the highest summit of Drohmo (a Finnish map says west summit is 36m higher, but "from visual inspection I would not have thought so"). "Scared all the time" because inadequate belay points were "a bit unnerving"; heavy monsoon had brought much snow. 500 ft of climbing zigzagging up pillar in difficult climb; when found rock it was good granite but pillar mostly snow and ice; luckily had five days good weather. 8th slept at 6750m biv, 9th at 5800m camp. Technically hardest climb Scott done since Shivaling East Pillar in 1981 - hard because carrying huge weights. Had to carry for alpine-style ascent. "Very satisfying trip." Took 4 gas cylinders and 4 days food. 21 abseils and 4 pitches of rock climbing. Mear did much of lead climbing: lighter weight and younger than Scott.


expid: TENG98301
peakid: TENG
year: 1998
route1: NE Ridge from S Pillar
nation: UK
leaders: Doug Scott
ascent1: 2nd
bcdate: 1998-09-19
smtdate: 1998-09-26
smttime: 1300
termdate: 1998-10-09
othersmts: Climbed Drohmo (DROM-983-01)
campsites: BC(19/09,4657m),ABC(25/09,5400m),Smt(26/09)
achievment: Same as Swiss 1949 spring basically
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  BC at Lhonak
  ABC at foot of Drohmo's South Pillar.

  Scott and Mears scrambled up point 6019m (on Janak Himal map) just northeast of Lhonak on 22nd. Then recce of snow conditions of Drohmo and carried gear below glacier to "rock camp" at 5400m on grass at foot of south pillar of Drohmo and its valley on east side up to northeast snow ridge of which last 50m rock. From Col above glacier to top took 5 hours. Got back to rock camp just after dark. Then 5 days bad weather at Lhonak, where returned 27 October. Drohmo climb next.


expid: DROM98302
peakid: DROM
year: 1998
nation: UK
leaders: Ronnie Robb
sponsor: Drohmo Medical Expedition
countries: Germany
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
primid: TENG98302
routememo:
  Did not attempt Drohmo. Team with Currin's Ramtang and Tengkoma parties met Doug Scott, who had just climbed Drohmo, and Scott told them (before they went to the mountain) that it was too difficult and time consuming for them. So the Robb brothers went to Tengkoma. Bricknell also to Tengkoma; and Mason, Russell and Schupp did no climbing, but joined large trekking party associated with climbing teams.


expid: MAKA98304
peakid: MAKA
year: 1998
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yasushi Fukuda
bcdate: 1998-09-01
smtdate: 1998-10-08
termdate: 1998-10-14
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to lack of rope and strength
campsites: BC(01/09,5300m),C1(07/09,6000m),C2(14/09,6400m),C3(20/09,7400m),C4(06/09,7600m),xxx(08/10,8300m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at near glacier's junction
  C1 on Chago Glacier
  C2 before steep section to Col
  C3 at Makalu Col.

  C2 to C3 very steep and fixed 600m rope here. 

  7th Oct first summit bid from C4 but very deep snow and "serac zone very difficult" and turned back at 8000m. 4 ropes already fixed and this party fixed 3 ropes: Ozawa, Shinagawa, Kato and Lhakpa Nuru. 

  8th Oct another bid by Fukuda, Inoue, Suzuki, Gyalzen and Sange and reached 8300m at last couloir, which very steep and had no rope so turned back: Suzuki, Inoue and Gyalzen at this high point. Inoue frostbite 3 fingers (black but no loss). Suzuki too tired in descent and went missing between C4 and C3 having lost his way and bivouacked at 7500m and was found in search by Ozawa and Shinagawa found at 8:00 pm; if found much later, would have died but found Ok and slept in C3 while Ozawa and Shinagawa up to C4 for planned attack. They were too tired to make attack and went down and climb finished.


expid: MAKA98301
peakid: MAKA
year: 1998
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hisashi Hashimoto
sponsor: Club Yamabokko Makalu I Expedition 1998
bcdate: 1998-08-23
smtdate: 1998-09-24
termdate: 1998-09-28
termnote: Abandoned at 8250m due to lack of supplies
campsites: BC(23/08,5300m),ABC(29/08,5500m),C1(13/09,6500m),C2(16/09,7650m),xxx(24/09,8250m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC  at glacier's junction
  ABC at Chago Glacier
  C1  at Chago Glacier
  C2  above Makalu La
  High point at snow face.

  O2: By both members and Sherpa in & above C2.

  24 Sept left C2 for summit: both members and Phurba Tshering Sherpa from C2 4:00 am and to 8250m at 2:00 pm by Ugno and Sherpa and then returned because not sufficient oxygen supply to carry on to top and not enough time. Hashimoto stopped at 8000m because fixed rope not above this altitude. Now climb finished because no rope, food and oxygen left for 2nd attack; had brought enough for only one summit bid.


expid: MAKA98302
peakid: MAKA
year: 1998
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Park Young-Seok
sponsor: Dong Guk University Makalu Expedition
bcdate: 1998-09-23
smtdate: 1998-10-08
termdate: 1998-10-19
termnote: Abandoned at 8200m due to strong winds
campsites: BC(23/09,5200m),C1(26/09,6000m),C2(28/09,6500m),C3(05/10,7400m),C4(07/10,7500m),xxx(08/10,8200m)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  C3 at Makalu La
  C4 at face
  High point at NW Face below summit.

  Summit bid abandoned because of deep snow. Park climbed with Japanese party without oxygen while Japanese were using oxygen but turned back together. Again Park wanted to go to top, but winds prevented climbed above C4 18 Oct and didn't sleep there.


expid: MAKA98303
peakid: MAKA
year: 1998
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Piotr Pustelnik
sponsor: Polish-American Makalu Expedition
countries: New Zealand, USA
bcdate: 1998-09-12
smtdate: 1998-09-26
termdate: 1998-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to winds
accidents: Margueritte very ill (pulmonary edema)
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(12,19/09,4600m),ABC(14,21/09,5100m),C1(16,22/09,5900m),C2(25/09,6400m),C3(26/09,7400m),xxx(26/09,16/10,7400m)

routememo:
  BC  at Tengma, south of Barun Pokhari
  ABC at glacial junction
  C1  on rock in middle of Chago Glacier
  C2  at bottom of steep head wall
  C3  at Makalu La
  High point at C3.

  Pustelnik and Pawlowski arrived before rest of team and set up BC, ABC, and C1 before their arrival. Margueritte flew in by helicopter with them, got seriously ill in ABC and had to be evacuated by helicopter about 29 Sept. 

  Weather got bad with very high winds when team got to C3 and never climbed above Makalu La. Spent week in BC due to snowfall then again to C3 but wind too strong and last visit was on 15 Oct and slept one night. C3 slept in by all members except Dorr, Gozdnik, Margueritte between 26 Sept and 15 Oct.


expid: TENG98302
peakid: TENG
year: 1998
route1: S Ridge from south
nation: UK
leaders: Ronnie Robb
sponsor: British Medical Tengkoma Exoedition
bcdate: 1998-10-13
smtdate: 1998-10-22
termdate: 1998-10-23
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to difficult snow and ice
campsites: BC(13/10,5130m),C1(16,21/10,5700m),xxx(22/10,6100m)
accidents: Tate developed cerebral edema at 5700m and went down to Ghunsa
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  BC at Pangpema
  C1 never occupied because Tate got sick & all in his party down to BC below
     (C1 pitched & occupied 21st on south rampant)
  High point at glacier on south side.

  On 16 Oct C1 pitched on south rampart but Tate got sick and all down, Howarth and two Havely's with Tate. Two Robb's and Bricknell then attempted mountains via some area of boulder field/slag and camped at about same place 21st Oct. 22nd made summit attempt to start of snow and ice difficulties and then turned back about 100m below summit.

  Two attempts were made on this rather undistinguished looking mountain. Mark Howarth, Jill and Rick Havely, and Alan Tate set up a high camp on the mountain, but were forced to abandon their attempt later that evening when Alan developed AMS (probably HACE). Fortunately Alan made a full recovery with descent to Lhonak and then later to Ghunsa (3400m). Ronnie Robb, David Robb and Bruce Bricknell made a second attempt a few days later and retreated about a hundred meters from the summit when a heavily crevassed glacier confronted them.


expid: KANG98301
peakid: KANG
year: 1998
route1: N Face
nation: UK
leaders: Chris Comerie
sponsor: Kangchenjunga 1998 Expedition
bcdate: 1998-09-07
smtdate: 1998-10-18
termdate: 1998-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to stormy weather
campsites: BC(07/09,5000m),C1(11/09,5300m),C2(16/09,5900m),C3(09/10,6900m),C4(18/10,7400m),xxx(18/10,7400m)
accidents: Ian Arnold foot fracture; others acclimatized poorly
agency: Sherpa Excursions
routememo:
  BC at Pangpema
  C1 at glacier
  C3 at North Col
  C4 in snow hole just below the Castle on North Ridge
  High point at C4.

  Climb and very difficult above C2 and took one week longer than expected to occupy C3 and this week "probably cost us the summit" because when ready for summit attempt weather had become "absolutely appalling." Arrived at C4 site on 17th Oct and partly dug snow cave. High winds and fresh snowfall and much sprindrift, wind slabs and deep snow on ridge; "not a nice place." Spent night of 18th at C4 but same storm hadn't really stopped and by midday 19th weather got worse with extreme cold, high winds and at times no visibility. Down to C3 on exhausting descent. 20th to BC in one day and now no time left after having extended climbing period by four days. Had lost several days on walking because of heavy monsoon. Bryan and Comerie did most of high climbing because others poorly acclimatized.


expid: JANU98301
peakid: JANU
year: 1998
route1: NW Pillar (near French 1994 rte)
nation: France
leaders: Manu Pellissier
sponsor: Jannu 1998
bcdate: 1998-09-22
smtdate: 1998-10-14
termdate: 1998-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to falling seracs
campsites: BC(22/09,4600m),Biv(02/10,5100m),C1(07/10,5400m),xxx(14/10,6200m)
agency: Numbur Himal Treks
routememo:
  BC at moraine of Khumbhakarna Glacier
  C1 at above rock pillar
  High point at 150m before Col of NW Pillar.

  Fixed rope all away from BC to C1 and had to biv at 5100m on about 2 Oct - was much snow on rock pillar and 3 days snowfall in early Oct. 13 Oct made 1st attempt to reach Col at 6350m but Pessi got altitude sickness and he to BC alone on fixed ropes and other 3 members stayed in C1. 14th another attempt to go up but Genevois stopped (very tired) at end of fixed  rope at 6000m while Guy and Pellissier reached 6200m and down (too late and feet freezing and no place to biv). During descent big seracs fell off and missed 2 men but another serac came down again missing men, but now decided too dangerous to continue (ropes damaged by falling debris). Route difficult technically and dangerous.


expid: TAPL98301
peakid: TAPL
year: 1998
route1: S Face-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Nori Miyazawa
sponsor: Cross Peak Two-Person Himalayan Expedition
ascent1: 1st
bcdate: 1998-09-23
smtdate: 1998-10-08
smttime: 1255
termdate: 1998-10-11
campsites: BC(23/09,4960m),C1(28/09,5100m),C2(01/10,5600m),C3(07/10,6000m+),Smt(08/10)
accidents: Nothing serious
achievment: 1st ascent
agency: Yeti Mountaineering & Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Pangpema
  C1 at junction of Kangchenjunga and Gimmigela Glacier
  C2 at lower part of South Face
  C3 on rock ridge of South Face.

  Route to C2 across steep small face where avalanches and stone fall descend (but no one hurt) at lower part of South Face of Taple Shikhar (Cross Peak). Arrived C2 on 1 Oct and stayed there six nights while snow falling Oct 1-3. 4 Oct two Sherpas going up to see route and fix it and worked on route three days. 7th Oct C3 occupied and 8th Oct to top at 12:55 pm - slept in C3 that night, in C1 9th Oct in BC 10 Oct. Mr Miyazawa stayed in BC throughout climb. Climb "very difficult for me but Sherpas helped me and thanks to the Sherpa I got to summit." Mrs. Miyazawa was last on summit from summit party. "I very lucky, protected by God."


  Doug Scott - 15 Oct 1998 

  Mr Miyazawa drank heavily and was found one day "flat out" on glacier. Mrs Miyazawa and Sherpa to top at 1:00 pm 8 Oct. When they left BC several days later, were accompanied by 6 policeman to Ghunsa (where helicopter evacuated them). 

  4 Nov 1998 - Kangchenjunga leader Comerie said it was a party of Japanese who was found flat out.


expid: PYRM98301
peakid: PYRM
year: 1998
route1: W Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: James Milne
sponsor: New Zealand Alpine Club Pyramid Peak Expedition
bcdate: 1998-10-22
smtdate: 1998-10-29
termdate: 1998-11-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to wind
campsites: BC(22/10,5100m),ABC(25/10,5300m),C1(28/10,5600m),C2(30/10,5800m),xxx(29/10,6200m)
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC  at Pangpema
  ABC at Jonnsong Glacier's west side
  C1  at basin between Pyramid West Ridge & SW Ridge
  C2  at temporary Camp on West Ridge
  High point at West Ridge.

  On 29th wanted to put camp at 6300m on West Ridge but too much wind and dumped gear at 6200m and slept in C1. Next day got only to 6100m to West Ridge where Kangchenjunga team had tent but wind too strong (80 mph) to pitch tent and down to 5800m and pitched tent there on West Ridge. 31st wind seemed to worse and thought this wind would last 5 or 6 days and didn't have enough food to wait this long and get to top and back so Ang Dorje went up to bring down gear at 6200m on 31st and climb finished. Serious climbing difficulties were on the last 500m below summit: sharp knife-edge rock with overhanging rock to be seen and perhaps cornices beyond that.


expid: RAMT98301
peakid: RAMT
year: 1998
route1: E side on glacier
nation: USA
leaders: William Davidson
sponsor: American Expedition to Drohmo & Ramtang
approach: Biratnagar->Basantapur
bcdate: 1998-09-25
smtdate: 1998-09-29
termdate: 1998-09-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(25/09,5100m),C1(26/09,5600m),C2(27/09,5800m),C3(28/09,5900m),xxx(29/09,6200m)
accidents: Nothing serious - finger dislocated on walk in
agency: Himalayan Excursions
routememo:
  BC at Pangpema
  C1 at Kangchi Glacier
  C2 at Ramtang Glacier
  C3 at Ramtang Glacier
  High point at Ramtang Glacier.

  1st went to Lamtang, Scott's BC for Drohmo till 26th talked with Doug Scott and Mear for couple days and decided that Drohmo too much steep rock and required hardware Davidson didn't have. Went to Pangpema for Ramtang attempt. 26 Sept went to Kangchenjunga glacier 27th and 28th up Ramtang Glacier. On 29th Sept scouted mountain to 6200m on Ramtang Glacier and back to Pangpema because frequent snowfall/slept. Next day started for Ghunsa.


expid: RAMT98302
peakid: RAMT
year: 1998
route1: E Shoulder (same route as 1930)
nation: UK
leaders: Simon Currin
sponsor: Ramtang Medical Expedition
countries: France, Germany, Ireland
bcdate: 1998-10-08
smtdate: 1998-10-18
termdate: 1998-10-25
termnote: Abandoned at 6450m due to dangerous conditions
campsites: BC(08,13/10,5130m),C1(13/10,5330m),C2(17/10,5900m),xxx(18-21/10,6450m)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  BC at Pangpema
  C1 at glacier (West Fork of Kangchenjunga Glacier)
  C2 at glacier
  High point at East Shoulder.

  Stopped at 6450m on east shoulder where it comes to East Ridge, the summit ridge which was very dangerous was double-corniced. Too dangerous to try South Face because were big seracs at top overhanging 90-degree slope. Decided this would be teams highest point on 18th but others went up to have a good climb.


  Ramtang (6700m)
   
  The team shared the same C1 as the Kangchenjunga team and this camp was established around the 10th Oct. We then avoided most of the icefall by scrambling up the lateral moraine to gain the upper glacier where C2 was pitched at 5900m. The serac band above C2 was climbed more easily than anticipated and this led to an easy walk to the foot of the South Face of Ramtang. Most of the face was threatened by a high band of seracs and a formidable cornice so we elected to climb the shoulder leading to the Eastern Summit. This turned out to be an easy neve slope of around 55 degrees and about Alpine AD standard. Fixed ropes were put in place to safeguard descent and these were removed 5 days later. On reaching the eastern summit we decided not to traverse to the main summit (which appeared only marginally higher) due to the presence of huge and dangerous double cornices.


expid: CHAN98301
peakid: CHAN
year: 1998
route1: Changla-W Face (to 5050m)
route2: Changla W Peak-N Ridge-W Ridge-W Smt
nation: Japan
leaders: Tomatsu Ohnishi, Sadao Yoshinaga
sponsor: Osaka Alpine Club Expedition to Kanti Himal & Changla
bcdate: 1998-10-25
smtdate: 1998-10-31
termdate: 1998-11-02
othersmts: Attempted Kanti Himal (KANT-983-01)
campsites: BC(25/10,4200m),ABC(28/10,4900m),C1(30/10,5200m),W-Smt(31/10,6162m)
achievment: 1st ascent of West Peak or any Changla Peak
agency: Cosmo Treks
primid: KANT98301
routememo:
  BC  at Changla Khola
  ABC on Col (Changla Bhajang)
  C1  at start of North Ridge.

  29th Oct all 4 climbing members and 4 climbing Sherpas tried from ABC to climb Main Peak from West Face to reach NW Ridge, but broken icefall at bottom of face stopped them after only 150m climb, so shifted attempt to Changla West Peak. 30th made C1 for ascent of West Peak from its North Ridge. 31st ascended North Ridge to West Ridge to West Peak and down to ABC: 3 climbing members and 2 Sherpas, Ang Phurba and Chuldim, left C1 at 6:00 am; fixed 550m of rope from C1 to top in soft snow; reached top at 1:00 pm in technically easy climb. 1st Nov returned to BC.

  Expedition spent total of almost 80 days trekking and only 6 days in climbing on Kanti Himal and Changla.

  Ohnishi believes official main peak, 6563m, is not Changla highest peak, but that another one 6700m high on border southeast of main peak is highest.

  West Summit is about 6150m, i.e. 20,177 ft.

  Note: Yoshinaga refers to SW Summit instead of West Summit in his journal articles.


expid: KANT98301
peakid: KANT
year: 1998
route1: S Face-E Ridge (to 5650m)
route2: SW Face (to 5500m)
nation: Japan
leaders: Sadao Yoshinaga, Tomatsu Ohnishi
sponsor: Osaka Alpine Club Expedition to Kanti Himal & Changla
bcdate: 1998-09-14
smtdate: 1998-09-19
termdate: 1998-09-23
termnote: Abandoned at 5650m due route difficulties
othersmts: Attempted Changla Himal (CHAN-983-01)
campsites: BC(14/09,4200m),ABC(17/09,5200m),xxx(19/09,5650m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
primid: CHAN98301
routememo:
  BC  southeast of South Face of Kanti Himal
  ABC at bottom of South Face
  High point at rock band of South Face.

  On 19th started up S Face to reach East Ridge, but 600m high rock band starting at 5500m to East Ridge at 6100m defeated them. Climbed only 3 pitches upward, then gave up because of soft snow on slate-like rock. All climbing members and 4 climbing Sherpas reached high point on South Face of 5650m on 19th.

  Then team went to see SW Face from hanging glacier below face and on 22nd Sept went to 5500m on glacier and decided SW Face too difficult to climb and returned to ABC and on 2 Oct returned to Mugu camp "headquarters" where non-climbing leader, doctor and others were based. 5 Oct entire expedition moved out of Mugu, splitting into several parties to make wide recess east, northeast and north of Mugu. Non-climbers made new headquarters at Simikot and climbing party of 4 members and 4 Sherpas went on to new BC for attack on Changla and West Peak of Changla.


expid: PUMO98307
peakid: PUMO
year: 1998
route1: SE Face/Ridge-E Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Herbert Mayerhofer
sponsor: Austrian Pumori Expedition 1998
ascent1: 127
bcdate: 1998-11-10
smtdate: 1998-11-15
smttime: 1220
termdate: 1998-11-27
campsites: BC(10/11,5350m),ABC(13/11,5800m),C1(14/11,6500m),Smt(15/11)
accidents: Only slight frostbite
agency: Apple Pie Expeditions
routememo:
  BC  beside lake above Gorak Shep
  ABC at bottom of SE Face
  C1  80-90m below East Col.

  Did not pitch a C1 because normal site at 6000-6100m because small space and very dangerous from overhanging seracs. 15 Nov only leader and 2 Nepalese went to summit. 3 members Skalnik, Hoermandinger and Patlik had left ABC on 14th with summit party but turned back because not fully acclimatized and had been frightened by retreating British Pumori team's horror stories of avalanching and did not reach camp at 6500m. 15th left camp at 6500m (which they called C2) at 7:15 am and reached top at 12:20 pm and down to BC at 6:15 pm. Technically difficult on East Ridge where were crevasses and just off track in deep powder snow, wind that sometimes blew climbers off track a little. 

  Had stayed a little late after waiting to see whether wind would become too strong but it did not and the three men went for the top. Members left BC 16 Nov in start of bad snowing weather, returned to BC 22nd to clean mountain of tents and all ropes and left 27 Nov.


expid: MANA98305
peakid: MANA
year: 1998
route1: NE Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Han Wang-Yong
sponsor: Korean Team to Manaslu
bcdate: 1998-09-29
smtdate: 1998-10-24
termdate: 1998-11-01
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to winds and fatal avalanching above climbers
campsites: BC(29/09,4800m),C1(06/10,5700m),C2(11/10,6700m),C3(23/10,7300m),xxx(24/10,7400m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  BC as same as others
  C1 on Ridge above Col
  C2 on North Face 100m below NE Ridge
  C3 on North Face 20m below NE Ridge.

  24th Oct up from C3 Han, Ra and Ivan (Bulgarian) reached 100m higher than strong wind drove them back to C3. 25th to C1 (2 Koreans). 26th down to BC (fatal avalanching above). 31 Oct Han and Ra to C2 but in night strong wind and down to BC late that night. Now climb finished because too much fierce wind (drove powdered snow through tent).


expid: MANA98306
peakid: MANA
year: 1998
route1: NE Face
nation: Bulgaria
leaders: Borislav Dimitrov
sponsor: International Manaslu Expedition
countries: France, Mexico, Russia, Turkey
bcdate: 1998-10-01
smtdate: 1998-10-29
termdate: 1998-11-01
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to final failure to reach summit
accidents: Frostbitten fingers by Horozov, Vasilev and Valtchev but will heal
agency: Sea to Summit Trekking
campsites:
  BC(01,05/10,4700m),C1(06/10,5500m),C2(08/10,6500m),Biv(28/10,7100m),Biv(29/10,7500m),xxx(29/10,7550m)

routememo:
  BC  as same most others
  Biv on snow cave steep slope above plateau.

  On 29th high point of C4 reached hoping weather would improve next day but it got much much worse (terrible wind which was blowing snow into one's face). On 30th saw winds very strong, so strong could not gather equipment together but had to leave everything and fight way to plateau, where wind not so fierce. Started down 9:00 or 9:30; no problems no dangerous parts to 7900m but then came to very steep, icy, very dangerous place and at 6900m Stanchev fell 500-600m to bottom of steep face. Why he fell, don't know because he was strong. One meter's deep snow prevented recovery of body. Other 3 to C2 that night (30th). On 31st Mahruki broke trail in 1m snow to BC but Vasilev got only to C1 and Horozov spent night 100m above C1 because very tired very slow. Decision to abandon climb made on 26th says Dimitrov, after snowstorms but 3 Bulgarians and Turk did not agree and went up for one more try for top on 30th; made bad decision in view of other teams experiences, but Vasilev, for one, is old school (was party leader on Everest '84 expedition) and "he is like my father, I cannot tell him what to do."

  Early departures: Thierry didn't like moving icefall and left expedition 9 Oct. 2 Mexicans involved in avalanche that killed Columbian on 26 Oct. Karla Wheelock was buried but quickly rescued and not hurt, but they left after that.


expid: MANA98307
peakid: MANA
year: 1998
route1: NE Face
nation: Colombia
leaders: Cristobal Von Rothkirch
sponsor: Columbia Granhorrar Manaslu Expedition
bcdate: 1998-09-13
smtdate: 1998-10-12
termdate: 1998-10-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to dangerous deep snow
campsites: BC(13/09,3900m),ABC(15/09,4900m),C1(18/09,5900m),C2(09/10,6600m),xxx(12/10,7300m)
accidents: Nothing except fatal avalanche (Gonzalez muscle pain)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  BC  lower than others
  ABC most team's BC
  C1  above Naike Col at start of Icefall
  C2  little lower than Georgians and Bulgarians.

  Big snowfall caused them to spend 8 days in BC. Depot at 7300m on 12 Oct; snow deep and stopped here to dump supplies; planned to make C3 at 7500m and go for summit from there. On 12th snowfall started again. 15th and 16th Ariano and Gonzalez up to 6400m (big crevasse needing ladder) to open route to C3 and pitch it but storm came with 80 cm new snow so down and 18th all in ABC. 23rd all members to ABC, 24th 5 up trying to get to 7300m and reached C2. 25th heavy snowfall and 26th decision to abandon climb and came down. On way from C2 to C1 at 1:00-2:00 pm avalanche struck Gonzalez, Granados and Mexican woman Karla with Bulgarian team; total 12 people from 4 expeditions were descending together and Gonzalez and Karla could be seen quickly rescued but Granados fell beyond a crevasse, which had stopped Karla and Gonzalez and could not be seen and careful search did not find him in debris of very big, avalanche 1m deep; more avalanching that day and more snow falling; had to find new route and took till 7:00 pm to reach C1, exhausted and "very depressed." This route very long.


expid: GAMA70301
peakid: GAMA
year: 1970
route1: W Side
nation: Japan
leaders: Michihiko Ogata
sponsor: Fukuoka Alpine Club Himalayan Committee - Dhaulagiri IV
ascent1: 1st
smtdate: 1970-10-25
campsites: BC(4100m),C1(4650m),C2(5000m),C3(5750m),C4(6060m),C5(6350m),C6(6900m),Smt(25/10)
primid: DHA470301
othersmts:
  Climbed Dhaulagiri VI (DHA6-703-01); attempted Junction Peak (JUNC-703-01) and Dhaulagiri IV (DHA4-703-01)


expid: RAMC74301
peakid: RAMC
year: 1974
route1: W side
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Tone Skarja
sponsor: Expedition to Kangbachen from Slovene Alpine Club, Ljubljana
ascent1: 1st
smtdate: 1974-10-05
smttime: 1530
primid: KANB74301
othersmts:
  Climbed Kangbachen (KANB-743-01) and Mojca (MOJC-743-01) and an unnamed peak of 6500m west of Ramtang Chang (both unauthorized)


expid: TSUR79301
peakid: TSUR
year: 1979
route1: E Face from BC
route2: NW Ridge from D-V
nation: Japan
leaders: Michiko Takahashi
sponsor: Japan Dhaulagiri Traverse Expedition 1979
ascent1: ?th ascent
ascent2: ?th ascent
bcdate: 1979-09-02
smtdate: 1979-10-15
termdate: 1979-10-26
primid: DHA279301
othersmts:
  Climbed Dhaulagiri II (DHA2-793-01), Dhaulagiri III (DHA3-793-01), Dhaulagiri V (DHA5-793-01); attempted Snow Peak (SNOW-793-01)


expid: CHOY86104
peakid: CHOY
year: 1986
route1: NW side
nation: W Germany
leaders: Hubert Vollmer
ascent1: 26th claimed
approach: Nangpa La from Nepal
smtdate: 1986-05-12
termnote: Success claimed (no details available, claim not believed)
campsites: xxx(12/05,7500m?) or Smt(12/05?)
routememo:
  "Soloist" Vollmer made unauthorized attempt. Pitched a tent at about 6850m. Visited US expedition's C4 at 7500m on 12 May and told Americans back in BC on 13 May he had gone to the summit on 12th and back to his tent. 

  The US leader Jim Frush doubts Vollmer could have reached summit in time available to him (Frush did not actually know German's name). An Italian, Anders Bolinder, who investigated 8000m claims was sure Vollmer, whose name was revealed in an article in Alpin Magazine (Dec 86), did not reach summit.


  Schleypen - 3 Nov 1995

  Schleypen does not know Vollmer; never heard of him (Schleypen was with Woerner's spring 1986 Cho Oyu tam).


  Frush, US Cho Oyu - 30 May 86

  Cho Oyu spr 1986, Tichy route

  A solo German had tent pitched 500 ft above Americans C3 and visited Americans C4 on 12th. He later climbed he we went to top on 12 May from Americans C4 and down to his tent, but Frush doubts he could have down this in time available. He was in American's BC on 13th and told them there.

  Name unknown - said he was German.


  Letter to Miss Hawley from Stefan Woerner - March 12, 1987

  Of course it is very hard to judge whether Vollmer can claim to have reached the summit or not. Nobody will ever know the truth. The same is with the claims of Mischa Salecki. Has he ever reached the summit? How many times really? What concerns Vollmer's former attempt, I have no knowledge at all.

  You mention about solo climb interpretation. My opinion is that a climb is only a solo climb if nobody else is at any place on the mountain at the same time and if there are no assisting factors such as steps, tents, fixed ropes, etc. from former or actual mountaineers. If you looked at this from this side, almost none of the solo climbs of eight thousanders were really solo climbs. Was no other team on Everest when Messner soloed it from Tibet? What about Franz Oppurg on Everest in 1978? And even Buhl 1953 made only the last section on Nanga Parbat solo. Of course Messners second success on Nanga Parbat was a real solo climb. There is no doubt.


expid: KANB87301
peakid: KANB
year: 1987
nation: France
leaders: Jean Ritter
termnote: Did not reach mountain
othersmts: Climbed some small peaks in region
agency: Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
routememo:
  Three 5500-6000m small peaks climbed from Yalung Glacier near Boktoh Peak. Too much snow to climb higher or go north towards Kangbachen. Spent six nights in snow and was very cold but no serious health problems. Had hoped to climb some.


expid: AMAD98401
peakid: AMAD
year: 1998
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Jim Williams
sponsor: 1998 Professional Mountain Guides (PMG) Winter Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 1998-11-25
smtdate: 1998-12-02
termdate: 1998-12-04
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to only leader and 1 member climbed and member got tired
campsites: BC(25/11,4525m),C1(01/12,5650m),xxx(02/12,6100m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 lower than normal site
  High point at site for C2 top of yellow tower.

  Billy O'Donnell had leg injury before arriving at BC and wanted to go home immediately, his uncle felt he had to go with him and then hired guide Sullivan to go with them and his (Sullivan's) girlfriend Evans had come to be with him, so all 4 of them left BC on 1st Dec having arrived there on 28 Nov (Williams arrived at BC on 25 Nov, Edwards on 26th). These 4 never attempted to go above BC. 

  Edwards, Williams and 2 "Sherpas" left BC on 1st Dec to climb and made C1 that day. 2 Dec Williams and "Sherpas" up to check fixed ropes were in place and went to top of yellow tower at 6100m which is site of C2 and back to C1 for night. Now Edwards decided he was too tired to continue climb. All left C1 on 3rd, Edwards first, walking in 7 hours to BC while Williams and "Sherpas" up to 6100m to retrieve gear, down to BC in 3 hours.


expid: AMAD98402
peakid: AMAD
year: 1998
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Duncan Chessell
sponsor: Australian Ama Dablam Winter Expedition
ascent1: 283,284
countries: UK
bcdate: 1998-12-01
smtdate: 1998-12-05
termdate: 1998-12-09
othersmts: Lobuche East attempted, Gokyo Ri climbed
campsites: BC(01/12,4600m),C1(02/12,5800m),C2(03/12,6100m),C3(04/12,6350m),Smt(05-06/12)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  BC at normal site (same as Americans)
  C1 only one night and then tents moved
  C2 at top of yellow tower.

  Trekked for 3 weeks in Gokyo area including attempted on Lobuche East before going to BC. Then went up Ama Dablam well acclimatized. C1 had 2 tents on 2 Dec and both tents moved to C2 on 3rd day by all 5 members. 4th Auricht, Chessnell and McClurg to C1 that day. 7th Pennington and Wiltshire to C2 "a little tired" and other 3 members to BC. 8th Pennington and Wiltshire to BC and all 5 left BC next day. Put in C3 because didn't want to have to get up very early in cold. C1, C2 and C3 reached just before dark (and 2 slow members reached one camp after dark); all had headlamps.


expid: CHOY94312
peakid: CHOY
year: 1994
route1: W side from S
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Slobodan Gejo, Safet Mavric
approach: From Nepal across Nangpa La
smtdate: 1994-10-20
termnote: Arrested by Chinese
campsites: xxx(20/10,5700m)
routememo:
  2-man team, Gail Milosovic and Tomo (?), crossed illegally from Nepal at Nangpa La, were spotted by authorities and taken into custody by 2 men with guns when they came down - most of their equipment was confiscated and they were escorted back to the border.

  Pratt made his own illegal attempt right after Serbs whom he met.

  Yugo Everest members spr '96 had heard vaguely of this climb, thought they had reached only 6700m - knew nothing more - didn't know names.

  Skarja reports these 2 Yugoslavs got no higher than 5700m before being expelled by authorities. 


  Cho Oyu - Autumn 1994

  A pair of Yugoslavs (from Serbia, still part of what's left of Yugoslavia), Slobodan Gejo and Safet Mavric, made an unauthorized attempt on Cho Oyu, having crossed illegally from Khumbu over the Nangpa La into Tibet. They did not reach the summit: their highest point has been given to me (in August 1995) as 6800m by a British climber, Jonathan Pratt, who made his own illegal attempt right after these two, whom he met, and (in August this year) as only 5700m by a Slovenian Alpine Federation official, Tone Skarja. The two Yugoslavs were caught by the authorities in Tibet, escorted back to the border and most of their gear confiscated. Gejo's biodata is available in the files of autumn 1995 Yugoslav Annapurna II team and autumn 1996 US-Yugoslav-German Everest (from north) team.


expid: CHOY94313
peakid: CHOY
year: 1994
route1: W side from S
nation: UK
leaders: Jonathan Pratt
smtdate: 1994-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to lateness of the day
campsites: xxx(22/10,8000m)
routememo:
  Pratt had Nepalese trekking permit, decided at Namche Bazar to make an attempt on Cho Oyu. Went to the mountain with just trekking gear. Started for top from 7300m on 22 Oct at 9:00 am, rather late because didn't have proper sleeping bag, etc and reached summit plateau about 4:30 pm and then turned back because too late to continue up for more than an hour to summit, and since was climbing illegally couldn't tell about his climb publicly. Was last climber on mountain even after illegal Serbs were gone (in police custody briefly).


expid: CHOY96321
peakid: CHOY
year: 1996
route1: N Ridge up; W side down
route2: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Oscar Cadiach
sponsor: Costra Daurada Cho Oyu Expedition 1996
ascent1: 223
countries: Austria
bcdate: 1996-09-08
smtdate: 1996-09-28
smttime: 1800
termdate: 1996-10-09
othersmts: Climbed Palung Ri on 18 Sept (all 5 members)
campsites: BC(08/09),ABC(10/09,5500m),C1(16/09,6500m),Biv(26/09,7500m),Smt(28/09)
accidents: Rafols fell 300m in his first descent but not hurt
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  ABC at normal site
  C1  at Palung La
  Biv on North Ridge
  Biv on North Ridge near point 7570m on Schneider map.

  On 18 Sept climbed Palung Ri for acclimatization and then back to ABC. 

  4 members to C1 for N Ridge (Griso to normal route) on 25 Sept. 26th 4 tried to go to top by N Ridge but Rafals felt sick and Tovar went to ABC with him (1 night at C1) while Cadiach and Ruckensteiner on to top in alpine-style. Left biv 2 7500m at 9:00 am and reached top 6:00 pm and returned to 7500m biv at 10:00 pm. 29th descended normal route to ABC in windy and cloudy weather (not very bad). Was nice route: route "impressive" (very steep - 45-75 degrees).

  Rafols and Tovar again tried to climb ridge but reached 7500m in 15 hours from night of 30 Sept from Col; from 7500m to normal C3 also 7500m on 2 Oct; 3rd Oct tried for top, reached 8000m and back because lot of wind, new snow; were not on 3rd, joined by Griso; down normal route.


expid: CHOY97322
peakid: CHOY
year: 1997
route1: NW side
nation: Russia
leaders: Stanislav Krylov
sponsor: Tomsk Himalaya Cho Oyu Expedition 1997
ascent1: 273
bcdate: 1997-09-07
smtdate: 1997-09-30
termdate: 1997-10-07
campsites: BC(07/09),ABC(09/09,5700m),C1(12/09,6400m),C2(18/09,7000m),C3(28/09,7500m),Smt(30/09)
agency: None
routememo:
  Were on Ukrainians permit and worked together in camps (Ukrainians arrived first). Had to spend 5 days in ABC waiting for storm to stop and then Ukrainians to go to top and vacated high camps and for weather again to improve (spent extra day in C3 day of 29th). On summit could not see other mountains or even Tibet but sure were on top because found oxygen bottles and free Tibet banner. Summit party on 30th were Ms. Akinina, Krylov and Russkikh; Russkikh turned back at 8100m because of fingers being frostbitten using video camera.


expid: EVER95115
peakid: EVER
year: 1995
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Alison Hargreaves
sponsor: Himalayan Experience 8000 to Everest (on Himex permit)
ascent1: 206
bcdate: 1995-04-09
smtdate: 1995-05-13
smttime: 1208
termdate: 1995-05-18
campsites: BC(09/04),ABC(14/04,6400m),C1(11/05,7700m),C2(12/05,8300m),Smt(13/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  This ascent was unsupported without oxygen and to top alone as 1st woman to do this. Moved independently of Brice's team above ABC - did not use other's fixed camps. Took our loads to N Col in 3 trips (on 3rd slept at Col) and down ABC. Made camp at 7700m, slept there and down to ABC. 11 May from ABC to Col, picked up gear from Col, went to 7700m, slept there. 12 May up to 8300m with tent from Col and slept there (hard to make our platforms by moving loose stones) without sleeping bag; spent night melting and drinking liquid, dozing off and on. 13 May left tent at 4:40 am weather very dear, "incredibly cold," no wind. Had water bottle, small camera, walkie-talkie and spare batteries for feet warmer (have had frostbite 3 times before on Kangtega and Alps). 8300m was on snow camp to N Ridge-NE Ridge combination. Got to top 12:08 pm (had radio with her and said from top: "to Tom and Kate, my 2 children I'm on top of the world and I love them deeply." Took photos and started down 40 minutes later - met on ascent Italians (Bianchi & Christian) who had camped near her, overtook them, then they overtook her during long radio call at about 10:00-10:30 am and they reached top about 10 mins ahead of her; they were still there when she started down. She got further and further ahead of them. At 8300m at 4:00-4:15 pm packed up tent, chatted with Sherpas (Mallory's) and set off to 7700m (Italians slept at 8300m much late). Reached 7700m at 7:00 pm in fading light. 14th to ABC, alone to bottom of fixed ropes at 6500m, where 2 people (Greg Child and Brice) came up to meet her and 3 together to ABC - had over tents, high altitude food, etc. 2:00 pm or earlier - very very tired.

  Night of 18th had to walk 18 km over landslide debris to reach Zangmu from 7700m to ABC every Sherpa she met wanted to shake her hand and dozen foreigner congratulated her and shook her hand. At this point realized that I had done something people thought was quite special. I still find it hard to believe I actually climbed Mt Everest. Saw one set of footprints at summit from Nepal side of mountain. [Lobsang Jangbu on top 7 May].

  Goes to K-2 in 3 weeks with Americans. Kangchengjunga this autumn or next spr.
  In KTM till 25th May at Hotel Gaurishankar from 21st.

  22 May 95 - Marco Bianchi says Alison remained behind him and Kunter all the times on summit day, did not pass them on ascent - but she is very strong. She is a new star of the Himalayas, of woman for sure but also of men. She climbs like a man - she is very strong - and very kind.

  6 June 95 - Russell Brice's members, Child, Whittaker and 2 Dickinsons say Alison made such a point of being independent that she would not sit in others tent to chat (let alone share tent at 8200-8300m to keep warm when she had no sleeping bag) or accept cup of tea from others. She was never seen using the fixed ropes. Brice adds: she used ladder on 2nd Step.

  7 June 95 - Jon Tinker: Italians occasionally waited for Alison to move, up behind them on summit day - but she descended in good order whereas they did not, were very sick.


expid: KTEG98302
peakid: KTEG
year: 1998
route1: E Buttress (did no climbing above ABC)
nation: Italy
leaders: Othmar Zingerle
sponsor: South Tirolean Himalaya Expedition to Kangtega
bcdate: 1998-11-08
smtdate: 1998-11-15
termdate: 1998-11-23
termnote: Abandoned at 5100m due to deep snow and lack of time
campsites: BC(08/11,4900m),ABC(15-21/11,5100m),xxx(21/11,5100m)
agency: Inner Nepal
routememo:
  BC  at south end of Hinku Nuptse Glacier near "R" Glacier on Schneider map
  ABC at Hinku Nuptse Glacier
  High point at ABC (did no actual climbing).

  Did not attempt E Buttress as planned because started snowing after arrival at ABC and snow too deep to make climb. Back to BC on 17 Nov. Again on 20th up from BC to ABC, saw snow still too deep, fresh snow over many stones and impossible to continue so back to BC same day and climb finished. 

  To ABC on:
    15th Hubert Moroder, Karl Unterkircher, Othmar Zingerle
    16th Silke Perathoner, Reinhard Senoner, Andreas Walpoth 
    20th Reinhard Senoner, Karl Unterkircher, Othmar Zingerle
    21st Hubert Moroder, Andreas Walpoth


expid: LOBE97301
peakid: LOBE
year: 1997
route1: NE Face up, SE Ridge down
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Tomaz Humar
sponsor: Slovenian Expedition to Pumori and Nuptse 1997
countries: Mexico
bcdate: 1997-09-24
smtdate: 1997-10-01
termdate: 1997-10-01
othersmts: Climbed Pumori (PUMO-973-07) and Nuptse NW Smt (NUPW-973-01)
campsites: BC(24/09,5400m),ABC(28/09,4930m),Smt(01/10)
achievment: New route and 1st Slovenian ascent
agency: Wilderness Experience
primid: NUPW97301
routememo:
  1st to Lobuche East then Pumori and Nuptse all from Pumori BC. For Lobuche stayed at Italian research pyramid at Lobuche village. Arrived there on 28 Sept and examined the NE Face. Made ascent of 900m vertical wall in 3 days. This basically an acclimatization climb but made new route up and descended normal route on southeast side in fog. Climbed in alpine-style in one continuous climb. Only 3 members tried to climb Lobuche while others not interested.


expid: MANA96308
peakid: MANA
year: 1996
route1: NE Face
nation: USA
leaders: Mark Scott-Nash
sponsor: 1996 American Manaslu Exprdition
bcdate: 1996-09-15
smtdate: 1996-10-13
termdate: 1996-10-21
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to AMS and high winds
campsites: BC(15/09,4700m),ABC(20/09,5300m),C1(22/09,5800m),C2(25/09,6600m),C3.Biv(13,17/10,7200m)
agency: Above the Clouds
routememo:
  Biv at C3 at 7200m 13 Oct (not a fixed camp because high winds prevented putting one up on way to summit). 14th summit party retreated to C2 in storm that lasted couple of days. Next summit bid on 17th stopped at same place, using Italian tent instead of only biv tent. This bid aborted by high altitude sickness by Britons sirdar Moti Lal Gurung. Now lot of wind and unsettled weather and not enough strength to combat drifting snow.


expid: MANA98401
peakid: MANA
year: 1998
route1: NE Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Park Young-Seok
sponsor: Dong Guk University Manaslu Expedition
ascent1: 63rd
bcdate: 1998-11-06
smtdate: 1998-12-06
smttime: 1120
termdate: 1998-12-08
campsites: BC(06/11,4600m),C1.ABC(29/11,5600m),C1(01/12,5600m),C2(03/12,6400m),C3(04/12,7600m),Smt(06/12)
achievment: 1st Korean to nine 8000er summits
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  BC at normal site above Samagaon
  C2 at normal site
  C3 at 200m higher than normal site and left of it.

  After reached BC went up to C1 site several times but 17 Nov heavy snowfall and strong wind so 21 Nov retreated to Samagaon. Up to BC again 27 Nov. 29 Nov to ABC but found deposited gear buried; 5 Sherpas stayed there to dig out gear and make camp site. 1 Dec members back to ABC. 2 Dec made route through icefall fixing 400m rope and 3 Dec established C2 at bottom of seracs below plateau. 4 Dec made C3 by direct route and put it higher than normal C3's (at 7300-7400m); Korean C3 at 7600m or higher. 5 Dec stayed at C3 because very windy. 6 Dec up to top: left C3 at 5:50 am when very windy and very cold; had to around big serac and spent extra hour getting around it and finally reached top at 11:20 am when not windy but still very cold (Sherpas got slightly frostbitten fingers when taking photo of Park on summit in at least - 40 degree C cold) but clear weather. Every day windy during expedition and "I very lucky at summit times" when not strong wind this day. Other Korean members not strong climbers; Park teaching students from university and juniors, so needed 5 Sherpas. 6 Dec slept in C2 (returned to camp C3 in 1-1/2 hours from top on crusted surface so very quickly to C3) and arrived C2 5:30-6:00 pm on 6th. 7th reached BC.

  Park's next 8000ers will be 
    Kangchenjunga in spring 1999
    K2 + Broad       summer 1999
    Makalu           autumn 1999
    Xixa             winter ? (TMA people don't like winter climbs)

  "I hope next winter I finish all 8000m mtns." After finish: "I live with my wife and 2 sons - 10 months I am away."

  Nepalese summiters:
    Kami Dorchi (Dorje) Sherpa, summited Annapurna I 3 May 1998 with Koreans, 
      this his only previous 8000er  
    Ang Dawa Tamang, summited Anna I in 1994 and 1998, Everest 3 times

  This expedition supported by Dong Guk University and this is why members are students and juniors getting instruction from Park.

  Doubts about Park's summit success in Korea, says Korean Embassy's Y. K. Young 

  28 Jan 1999 - Park's reply 22 Jan 1999 is that there were no summit photos; those doubters may have thought he claimed to be photos from top he did not claim as such; he reached one meter below highest rock of summit; not safe to get on top of it.


  South Korean Climber Summits Himalayan Giant
  By Elizabeth Hawley

  Kathmandu, Dec 16 (Reuters) - A South Korean climber who hopes to "conquer" all of the world's 14 mountains that are more than 8000 meters (26,250 ft) high, summited his ninth such giant mountain, Mt Manaslu, on Dec 6, the Nepalese tourism ministry announced today.
     The climber, Park Young-Seok, a 35-year-old tour company owner from Seoul, reached the summit of the Nepalese Himalayan giant, Manaslu, the world's eighth highest mountain on December 6 with 2 two Nepalese climbers helping him.
     However, Park and his two companions, Kami Dorchi Sherpa and Ang Dawa Tamang, used no bottled oxygen at all to assist them to overcome the serious lack of oxygen in the air at such great heights.
     Almost every day while they were on the mountain at the end of November and the first week of December, fierce winds buffeted them. But on Dec 6 "I was very lucky at summit time" when there was little wind, Park told Reuters here today, although it was extremely cold, perhaps minus 40 degrees Celsius at the top.
     Three other Koreans and 27 other Nepalese mountaineers had summited Manaslu before them since its first ascent in 1956.
     Twenty one other climbers from all countries of the world have summited as many as nine "eight-thousanders."
     Only five of these men have successfully scaled all 14 of them. Park said today he hopes to join this small distinguished band in about one year from now.
     "I hope next winter I will finish all eight-thousand-meter mountains." He plans to climb the world's third highest mountain (Kangchenjunga on the Indo-Nepalese border) next spring; the second highest (K-2 on Pakistan's border with China) and another great Karakoram peak (Broad peak) in the summer; the fifth highest (Makalu on Nepal's border with China) next autumn; and finally one of the "lesser" eight thousanders, Xixabangma (or Shishapangma) in Tibet, next winter.
      What will he do when he has finished them all? "I will live with my wife and two sons. Now I am away from home for ten months every year."


expid: NEPA95101
peakid: NEPA
year: 1995
route1: SW Ridge-S Smt from Sikkim
nation: Austria
leaders: Kurt Elbl
approach: From Sikkim: Gangtok->Kaktang->Yabuk
bcdate: 1995-05-04
smtdate: 1995-05-17
termdate: 1995-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 7150m at S Smt of Nepal Peak due to bad weather
othersmts: Attempted Kirat Chuli (KIRA-951-01)
campsites: BC(04/05,4900m),C1(05/05,5500m),C2(12/05,6000m),xxx(17/05,7150m)
agency: None
primid: KIRA95101
routememo:
  BC near Green Lake, Zemu Glacier
  C1 at Nepal Gap Glacier
  C2 at Nepal Gap Glacier
  High point at South Summit of Nepal Peak.

  Had planned to continue climbing northward on southwest ridge, scale main summit and go onto scale Tent Peak, but made no attempt to go beyond south summit of Nepal Peak because of lack of time.


expid: NEPA95301
peakid: NEPA
year: 1995
route1: SW Ridge from Sikkim-S Smt
nation: Germany
leaders: Wolfram Schroeter
sponsor: Saxon Himalaya Youth Expedition 1995
approach: To Green Lake->Zemu Glacier->Sikkim
bcdate: 1995-10-02
smtdate: 1995-10-25
termdate: 1995-10-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7150m at S Smt due to lack of time
othersmts: Had permit for Kirat Chuli (KIRA-953-01)
agency: None
campsites:
  BC(02/10,4900m),C1(07/10,5550m),C2(10/10,6000m),C3(16/10,6300m),C4(18/10,6600m),S-Smt(25-26/10,7150m)

routememo:
  BC at near Green Lake
  C1 at Nepal Gap Glacier
  C2 at Nepal Gap Glacier
  C3 on small plateau on Nepal Peak ridge
  High point at south summit of Nepal Peak.

  Had planned to continue northward on SW Ridge, scale main summit and go on to scale Tent Peak, but made no attempt to go beyond South Summit of Nepal Peak because of lack of time.


expid: PUMO97307
peakid: PUMO
year: 1997
route1: S Face (new route to S Pillar)(to 6250m)
route2: SE Ridge/Face-E Ridge
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Tomaz Humar
sponsor: Slovenian Expedition to Pumori and Nuptse 1997
ascent2: 118
countries: Mexico
bcdate: 1997-09-24
smtdate: 1997-10-15
termdate: 1997-10-18
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East (LOBE-973-01) and Nuptse NW Smt (NUPW-973-01)
campsites: BC(24/09,5400m),C1(29/09,5860m),C2(04/10,6200m),C3(09/10,6250m),Smt(15/10)
agency: Wilderness Experience
primid: NUPW97301
routememo:
  While 3 members climbed Lobuche East, other 6 members fixed ropes and established 2 camps on Pumori. Humar, Consolio, Kovac and Jeglic went for new route and reached 6250m on SE Face; had started at 6:00 am on 9th Oct and got this high point at about 11:00 pm and put tent there; could see members on normal route at same altitude and they went up and rescued injured member of Slovak Czech expedition. Those on new SE Face route went down to help with rescue on 10th. No return to new SE Face route. 14 Oct up on normal route to 6400m Slovak tent by some and others to our C2. 15 Oct pushed to top and same day back in BC.

  19 Oct 97 - Ochoa on Lhotse expedition: Slovenes went up very, very fast on 9th Oct to rescue Slovak.

  9 Oct 97 - Humar again - made new route on S Face to French South Pillar (French winter 1996 and French 1972). Stopped on this pillar at 6250m to go to help rescue Slovak and did not return to this route because they took several days taking care of the injured man (his leader not helpful, not around) and weather was changing daily. Went back to normal route because Nuptse climbers needed Pumori's summit for acclimatization. Had fixed 29 Oct as date to leave Nepal (and most members did).

  On 1 Oct, Humar, Jeglic and Carsolio climbed Lobuche East by new route: NE Face up, SE side down.


expid: TILI94304
peakid: TILI
year: 1994
route1: NE Spur-N Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Stephen Adamson
sponsor: 1994 Canadian Tilicho Expedition
ascent1: 20th
countries: USA
approach: Via Marshyangdi
bcdate: 1994-09-22
smtdate: 1994-10-10
termdate: 1994-10-12
campsites: BC(22/09,4940m),C1(28/09,5800m),C2(03/10,6550m),Smt(10/10)
accidents: Nothing serious
achievment: 1st Canadians and American ascents
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC near north end of Tilicho Lake
  C1 halfway up NE Spur
  C2 just above junction of NE Spur and North Ridge.

  3 to top on 10th and that was all: time said climb was over and 3 members already succeeding was good. Technical route. Very hard to C2, above which good snow where as below C2 was bad rock, crumbing steep rock.


expid: CHRW70301
peakid: CHRW
year: 1970
route1: W Smt
nation: Japan
leaders: Ryozo Yamamoto
sponsor: Academic Alpine Club of Shizuoka Churen Himal Expedition
ascent1: 1st
bcdate: 1970-10-24
smtdate: 1970-10-28
smttime: 1113
termdate: 1970-11-01
othersmts: Climbed Churen Himal Central (1st, 2nd ascents) (CHUR-703-01)
primid: CHUR70301
campsites:
  BC(24/09,4100m),C1(25/09,4750m),C2(01/10,5300m),C3(05/10,5650m),C4(11/10,6300m),C5(18/10,6600m),C6(21/10,6800m),Smt(28/10)


expid: CHRE71101
peakid: CHRE
year: 1971
route1: S side-S Ridge (to E Peak) (to 7250m)
nation: Japan
leaders: Makoto Takahashi
sponsor: Tokyo University Ski Alpine Club
approach: Pokhara->Beni->Darbang->Muni->Budsunge La->Gurjakhani
bcdate: 1971-04-08
smtdate: 1971-05-28
termnote: Abandoned at 7250m due to difficult ridge
othersmts: Attempted Churen Himal West (CHRW-711-01)
campsites:
  BC(08/04,4100m),EastC1(12/04,4700m),EastC2(24/04,5300m),EastC3(30/04,5700m),EastC4,EastC5(13/05,6600m),xxx(28/05,7250m)

routememo:
  Letter from Mahato Takahashi

  Since my letter of May 10th was sent, the weather has been unstable, possibly due to some effect of premonsoon season.

  East Camp 5 was established at 6600m on May 13th, but heavy snowfall prevented attack to East peak of Churen Himal until May 28th. On May 28th, K. Ideta and M. Kishi left Camp 5 to attack East peak summit, and they reached at the altitude of 7250m (summit 7351m) but the final snow ridge to summit is too narrow to climb in one day, and they returned back to Camp 5. On May 29th the weather was bad and they abandoned the attempt of second attack finally, considering the shortage of time and food and members physical conditions.

  In West ridge party the route making is more difficult. West Camp 4 was established at 6350m (West Ridge) on May 16th; and C5 was established at 6600m on May 23rd by Y. Yoshioka, Ishizuka, M. Aruji and Gyaltsen.

  The ridge is very narrow and steep and it consists of mix of rock and snow. Since then the attempt to extend the route to west peak summit had been continued until May 28th, but the highest altitude reached was 6900m.
   
  On May 29th our final decision to abandon our climbing activities was made considering limit of food storage, members and Sherpa's physical conditions and arrival of monsoon. Although it is pity that we cannot reach at summits, we feel happy as we did our best and all members and Sherpas returned back to BC without any accident. We will leave BC on June 5th, and will go back to KTM before 20th of June.


  Letter from Makato Takahasi - May 10

  Since we have established Base Camp on April 8, Camp 1 or 3 were established on both east and west routes.

  East Camp 3 was established on April 30 by Mr. K. Ideta and Ang Tendie, and its altitude is about 5700m. East Camp 3 is situated on the same as that of Shizuoka University party's camp 3.

  Our east party consists of three members (K. Ideta, T. Watanabe and M. Kishii, one Sherpa (Ang Tendie) and two local porters (Pemba Norbu and Dawa Norbu).

  Now they are going to establish Camp 4. The East party is originally supporting  party to west party, but considering some delay in route making and carrying up foods and equipments in west party, the east party will probably attack East peak of Churen Himal first.

  While the progress of the east party is as scheduled, the schedule of west party is several days delayed due to difficult route making, but Camp 3 was established on west ridge on May 5, and its altitude is 6150m. K. Kano, Y. Yoshioka, Y. Ishizuka, M. Aruji and Gyaltsen worked to make route to C3 and now they started route making C4. We are going to establish C4 and C5, and we will attack the summit late in May.


  Letter from Makahota Takahashi - May 24, 1971

  I would like to inform you some new progress in our expedition. East Camp 4 is established on May 10 and its altitude is 6300m. East party will start route  making to Camp 5. I expect there is essentially no difficulty in this route. In west party, Camp 3 was established on May 5, as reported and now route making ot Camp 4 on west ridge was started about 2 days ago and some members arrived at the place of 6500m, but the position of Camp 4 is not yet decided.


  Yashioka - Feb 20, 1971

  Same route as Italian and down on east side.


expid: CHRW82301
peakid: CHRW
year: 1982
route1: SE Face-W Smt (to 6600m)
nation: France
leaders: Gerard Grossan
sponsor: French Churen Himal Expedition 1982
approach: Pokhara->Khapha Khola->BC
bcdate: 1982-10-09
smtdate: 1982-11-02
termdate: 1982-11-07
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to length of route
othersmts: Attempted Churen Himal East (CHRE-823-01)
campsites: BC(09/10,4110m),C1(11/10,4700m),C2(15/10,5300m),C3(26/10,5850m),C4(31/10,6300m),C5(02/11,6600m),xxx
routememo:
  Grossan - 20 Nov 82

  BC - 4110m near point 4738 on Oct 9
  C1 - 4700m on glacier 
  C2 - 5300m on snowfield southwest of point 4738

  Route = Japanese route 1970 SE Face of West Peak, same did fixed ropes.
  Went over ridge north of Ghustang. Load shuttling took time and much snow face.

  C3 - 5850m, southwest of Dhaulagiri VI
  C4 - 6300m, northwest of Dhaulagiri VI

  2 Nov C5 6600m south of point 6921, route very long and members only load-carriers.

  Then decided to try for East Peak (7371m) and 3 members went to 7150m on East Ridge and then stopped when ice fell on north side of sharp knife-edge ridge was in danger of avalanching. Went for East Peak on 3 Nov: Cristin, Guibert and Grossan, other 2 as far as C4. After this went back. Expedition finished. All in BC 6 Nov. 

  No more climbing after 3 Nov because three making attempt had limited food and felt could not go higher without porters to help carry to make at C6 and perhaps needed more fixed ropes.

  No Sherpas at all above BC. Route too long for lack of them; this was a mistake: next they would have them.

  Did not try other peaks. 
  No accidents or frostbite.
  2 arrived today, other 3 came to KTM tomorrow.


  Grossan & Massardier

  4 leave KTM 26-27 Sept. 1 other arrives 1 Oct and catches up with others. Bus to Pokhara and 12-15 days to BC via Kaphe Khola.

  Route = SE Face (same as Japanese 1970 autumn) to West Peak and perhaps others. 

  BC at 4600m on Kaphe Glacier near South end of Churen's South Ridge
  5 camps to upper part of Kaphe Glacier to 6800m, then to summit. 

  No Sherpas above BC
  Medical oxygen only
  Arrive BC 5-10 Oct
  30 days climbing
  Most difficult is in beginning: rock ridge and ice wall.
  Have skis which expect to use during ascent on large snow fields (very light Nordic skis).

  French Churen Himal 1982
  Hotel Star on return
  1st French on Churen


expid: MAKA89307
peakid: MAKA
year: 1989
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiroyuki Baba
routememo:
  This expedition unknown to Japanese Alpine Club. According to JAC, Hiroyuki Baba, age 38, intended to climb Makalu, but his plan was abandoned in Kathmandu.


expid: GIME94301
peakid: GIME
year: 1994
route1: E Ridge-E Summit
nation: Japan
leaders: Kensihiro Otaki
ascent1: 2nd
bcdate: 1994-10-03
smtdate: 1994-10-28
othersmts: Climbed Gimmigela Main (GIMM-943-01)
primid: GIMM94301
campsites:
  BC(03/10,4900m),C1(06/10,5250m),C2(09/10,5850m),C3(17/10,6500m),C4(25/10,6900m),C5(28/10,6700m),Smt(28/10)

routememo:
  C5 at col between east peak and main peak.

  Route was same as that in autumn 1993: East Ridge from north to East Summit and on towards main summit.


expid: DHAM97301
peakid: DHAM
year: 1997
route1: W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kazuhiko Tokutake
sponsor: Togokushidohjin Tukuche Peak Expedition 1997
ascent1: 13th official
approach: Via Dhampus Pass
bcdate: 1997-10-02
smtdate: 1997-10-15
termdate: 1997-10-16
othersmts: Attempted Tukuche Peak (TUKU-973-01)
campsites: BC(09/10,4950m),Smt(15/10)
agency: Cosmo Treks
primid: TUKU97301
routememo:
  Went to Dhampus (Thapa Peak) where no snow (only rock). Climbed from Thapa Pass via West Ridge on 15 Oct Arakawa, Hirokazu, Ozaki, Tokutake, Yoshida, Pasang Kami Sherpa and Hasa Gurung. Easy climb in 5 hrs from Pass to Peak and 2 hours back to Pass.


expid: TENG98101
peakid: TENG
year: 1998
route1: Recon
nation: Japan
leaders: Nori Miyazawa
agency: Yeti Mountaineering & Trekking
routememo:
  Obtained climbing permit so Miyazawa could go to base camp and take photos of Cross Peak, which he wants to climb in Autumn 98. Did no climbing.


expid: TENG49101
peakid: TENG
year: 1949
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Alfred Sutter
ascent1: 1st
bcdate: 1949-05-19
smtdate: 1949-06-17
smttime: 1000
termdate: 1949-07-18
termnote: Success claimed
campsites: BC(19/05,4660m),C1(5250m),C2(5600m),Smt(17/06)
primid: PYRM49101
othersmts:
  Climbed Sphinx (SPHN-491-01) and Dzanye (DZAN-491-01); attempted Ohmi Kangri (OHMI-491-01) and Pyramid Peak (PYRM-491-01); recon Kangbachen (KANB-491-01) and Drohmo (DROM-491-01)


expid: AMAD99101
peakid: AMAD
year: 1999
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Daniel Bieri
sponsor: Swiss Ama Dablam Expedition 1999
ascent1: 285
countries: Netherlands
bcdate: 1999-04-10
smtdate: 1999-04-24
smttime: 1740
termdate: 1999-04-26
campsites: BC(10/04,4570m),C1(12/04,5700m),C2(23/04,6000m),Smt(24/04)
accidents: Van Mulken bad throat at BC on arrival from acclimatization; Huber gas stove problem
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  BC at lower than normal because no water higher
  C2 on top of yellow tower.

  No snow in places where expected, therefore quite difficult. Had black ice above 6200m to 6600m but teams had mountain to themselves so not great problem. Fixed 50m at traverse about 5900m and 200m at about 600m for quick descent. 24th left C2 at 6:30 am and on top "very late" at 5:40 pm because of difficulties including large crevasse at nearly 6200m (jumped with rucksack which followed by ropes and woman quite slow). On top half an hour, then down very slowly carefully (woman exhausted) and at 8:15 pm stopped at 6500m for unprepared biv in spot protected from wind. 25th went all the way to BC with both camps on their backs. Huber almost asphixiated by gas stove in tent but others in neighbouring tent heard his breathing and rescued him (threw stoves out of tent).


expid: AMAD99102
peakid: AMAD
year: 1999
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Matt Fioretti
sponsor: American Solo Expedition
bcdate: 1999-04-09
smtdate: 1999-04-21
termdate: 1999-04-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to limited time
campsites: BC(09/04,4500m),Depot(10/04,5000m),C1(19/04,5600m),xxx(21/04,6200m)
agency: Nepal Myths & Mountain Trails
routememo:
  At first had depot at 16,500 ft on 10th but did not sleep there. Found no water between BC and regular C1 at 18,500 ft and had sirdar carry 8 liters of water to his C1/depot on 11th. 12th Fioretti climbed from BC to 5600m but again did not sleep there but again only carried load; slept 2 days in BC. Another carry to 18,500 ft on 15th but slept in BC. Did not send Sherpa up on these carries because "ethic" of his climb meant he wanted to do it all alone (although he acknowledges that with Swiss-Dutch team there at same time his climb was not really solo as he had planned). Caught headcold from Swiss team's Sherpa who coughed all over the food at supper they shared; stayed in BC 3 days with cold. 19th up to 18,500 ft and slept there. 21st went up on a day's recce and went up to see routes and slept at 18,500 ft. Started to worry about time: yakman coming to BC on 27th and he couldn't wait and would take 3 days down to Lukla and Fioretti had trekking group coming to KTM 3 May. Needed 2 days to carry to next camp at 19,300-19,500 ft. Decided to abandon climb on 21st and left 18,500 ft on 22nd for BC, carrying gear down to 16,500 ft and 23rd Sherpa up to clear mountain.


expid: AMAD99103
peakid: AMAD
year: 1999
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Chris Suggitt
sponsor: Ross Mountaineering Club Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1999-05-01
smtdate: 1999-05-07
termdate: 1999-05-12
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(01/05,4600m),ABC(03/05,4900m),C2(04/05,5600m),C3(07/05,6300m),xxx(07/05,6500m)
accidents: Small amount of frostbite on Chris's hands
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  BC at lower Base Camp area
  C3 at bivouac
  High point just above C3.

  On May 6th they fixed rope on rock sections. On May 7th they attempted to go to the summit and weather deteriorated. May 6th perfect weather, May 7th wind and snow.

  On May 8th they returned to C2 and spent the night. On May 9th they spent the day and night at C2. On May 10th, stayed the day and night and with Ukranians. On May 7th they left C2 at 6:00 am and returned to C3 at 5:00 pm.
   
  Mick Britton never reached BC on Ama Dablam. During the acclimatization trek he decided he was not ready to climb. Chris has white blisters on both hands from rapelling on May 8th going from C3 to C2. Mild frostbite.

  Hired:
    Ang Gelu has been to Everest, had climbed Ama Dablam twice; 
      he assisted in carries to C1.
    Ungurl came to C1 to help carry gear back down.


expid: AMAD99104
peakid: AMAD
year: 1999
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Ivan Valenia
bcdate: 1999-05-03
smtdate: 1999-05-09
termdate: 1999-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to bad ice conditons
campsites: BC(03/05,4800m),C1(04/05,5200m),C2(08/05,5800m),xxx(09,11/05,6400m)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  High point at 6400m just below C3 site on SW ridge.

  11 May Bokov and Lebedev tried to go around difficulty at 6400m but were unable to do so. 12 May back in BC. Climb finished. Do not believe it was possible for Swiss to have reached summit with ice conditions as they were with ice screws not holding.


expid: ANN199101
peakid: ANN1
year: 1999
route1: N Face (1984 Spanish rte to 6700m)
nation: Spain
leaders: Juanito Oiarzabal
sponsor: Basque Annapurna Expedition
ascent1: 36th
countries: S Korea
bcdate: 1999-04-07
smtdate: 1999-04-29
smttime: 1130
termdate: 1999-05-04
campsites: BC(07/04,4250m),ABC(14/04,5400m),C1(15/04,5600m),C2(21/04,6700m),C3(28/04,7200m),Smt(29/04)
accidents: Pou cerebral edema in C3; 2 fatalities
achievment: 1st Korean woman summiter
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 for acclimatization, slept in twice only
  C3 (most teams think this normal site is 7500m).

  Did not climb Dutch Rib because even more dangerous than other route on north side; serac above rib avalanching often. 8 hours C2 to top is too long in good conditions, very long way. Summit team left C3 at 3:30 am and on top 11:30 (first party of 3 Spaniards), 12:20 Um, Park and Ang Dawa and 1:45 Ji and Kami Dorje and Ang Dawa, who had gone down from summit for 20 minutes and waited for Ji and Kami Dorje. Spanish returned to C3 4:00 pm, Um 5:30 pm. C1 to C2 very steep ice where fixed 1200m with many seracs and bad avalanche area hard to cross (5800m-6000m). Above C2 also ice but had dangerous rock (this year very dry and exposed rock). Dawa fast and went down ahead of Ji and Kami since all seemed well with them. He reported that at 50-55 degree ice just below Col at about 8000m; other two slipped roped together and disappeared and not found in search in C3 area next day (Miss Ji in down jacket and violet down pants and blue cap; Kami in dark green jacket). All survivors slept 29th in C3 and C1 30th when snow fell heavily snowfall below C2 and much avalanching. To BC 1 May and again snowfall. Annapurna is very dangerous mountain - terrible says Juanito.

  Juanito 1st 8000er was Cho Oyu in 1985 with success. 14 8000ers in 14 years, 20 expeditions. Next year Everest without oxygen. Feels some relief at having finished the 8000ers but elation.

  Nepalese summiters:
    Ang Dawa Tamang, Annapurna I in 1994 and 3/5/98; Everest X3, Manaslu 6/12/98
    Kami Dorchi Sherpa, Annapurna I 3/5/98 and Manaslu 6/12/98


expid: ANN199102
peakid: ANN1
year: 1999
route1: N Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Ferran Garcia
sponsor: Wildness Annapurna 1999 Cleaning Expedition
bcdate: 1999-03-26
smtdate: 1999-04-11
termdate: 1999-04-29
termnote: Abandoned at 5600m since did not intend to climb to summit (cleaning expedition)
campsites: BC(26/03,4300m),C1(29/03,5050m),C2(11/04,5600m),xxx(11/04,5600m)
achievment: 1st cleaning expedition to Annapurna I
agency: Sita Chuchura Treks
routememo:
  BC same as Juanito's expedition
  C2 no camp pitched
  High point at normal C2 site on West Face.

  C2 never slept in - rope fixed to site but no tent pitched. Went there to see rubbish situation and clean C2 site. Further up route lot of ice above and since mountain was very "dry." Crevasses had opened wide and seracs were dangerous above. When first arrived was snow but this melted and by end of expedition rock exposed and made climbing difficult between C1 and C2. Fixed rope from below exposed rock at 5100m to 5400m. 23 and 24 April went up to C2 to clear old and their own fixed ropes. Rest of mountain looked quite clean. Very difficult to dig out from ice all rubbish at C1 and took much time.

  1000 kg of trash from mountain and BC total. From BC area C1 and C2 - all this: batteries, plastic, cans, glass bottles. All items that could be burned were burned below BC. 1000 kg being taken to Spain. Went to use some of it to build memorial to 1974 expedition but no funds for this yet.

  Garcia did not want any members to attempt summit because the effort would mean spending energy on climbing and not cleaning up, would distract them from expeditions's purpose and would create more rubbish to be removed. Did not want climbing to appear to be an excuse for going to mountain.


expid: BARU93101
peakid: BARU
year: 1993
nation: USA
leaders: Benjamin Schifrin
agency: Nepal Himal
routememo:
  Spent 4 days on Mera Peak and got to saddle below summit and then having fallen into many crevasses, members were very tired. Group had "less experience than appeared on paper" and "route finding" errors were made, so abandoned Mera Peak. 

  Then spent 5 days waiting for weather (snowfall) to permit porters to move team, but also now evident memberes unwilling to help porters cope with difficult conditions. Had paid $5500 to go to Baruntse but now said not keen to go to it, so from Mera BC went trekking up Nunku Drangka to Amphu Labtsa to Imja Glacier and to Chhukung and Khumbu. Members were friends or acquaintences, but had never been on an expedition before and had no sympathy for porters in trouble (nor interest in local culture).


expid: BHRI99201
peakid: BHRI
year: 1999
route1: W Face (same as Japanese and Austrian)
nation: Japan
leaders: Kiyoshi Ishii
sponsor: Club Yeti Bhrikuti Expedition
ascent1: 9th
bcdate: 1999-07-27
smtdate: 1999-08-03
termdate: 1999-08-05
campsites: BC(27/07,5000m),C1(01/08,5600m),C2(02/08,5800m),Smt(03/08)
achievment: 1st summer ascent
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at Damodar Kund.

  Fixed rope from C1 up because 50-degree steepness. Easy route (did not visit Manang as planned).

  Ishii claims that Japanese in 1982 and all other expeditions climbed his team's West Face.


expid: CHOY92201
peakid: CHOY
year: 1992
route1: W Ridge/Face from N
nation: Germany
leaders: Mischa Saleki
ascent1: 105
countries: Japan
smtdate: 1992-08-15
campsites: Smt(15/08)
routememo:
  Definitely reached summit. There were clouds but Tsuzuki saw part of Everest. They had permit from TMA/CMA which Saleki arranged and she paid for.


expid: CHOY99101
peakid: CHOY
year: 1999
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Olaf Rieck
sponsor: Leipzig Expedition to Cho Oyu
ascent1: 332,333
bcdate: 1999-04-11
smtdate: 1999-05-06
smttime: 1230
termdate: 1999-05-16
agency: Everest Holiday
campsites:
  BC(11/04),ABC(13/04,5400m),C1(16/04,6100m),C2(24/04,6800m),C3A(30/04,7100m),C3B(05/05,7500m),Smt(06-07/05)

routememo:
  ABC lower than others (1 hour)
  C1  lower than others
  C2  lower than others
  C3  same at others or little higher.

  2 members [Speer and Tauchnitz] slept in a tent at 7100m 30 April because whiteout prevented going higher; 2 others on 1 May 7100m camp slept in by Rieck and Tuerpe who planned to go to top from there but again weather sent them down again. Storm on 5th May. Ziegler and Kraus took tent from 7100m and took it to 7500m. Ziegler turned back too tired to continue while Kraus on to top at 12:30 pm NST and saw Everest, down to C3 to sleep. 

  6th May Rieck and Tuerpe from C1 8:00 am, on 11:00 am C2, left C2 at 9:30 pm and went directly to top at 1:30 pm on 7th; caught up with Spanish Abrego members and their Sherpa; the Sherpa went to top with Germans. Germans slept in C3 that night, all expedition members slept in C2.


expid: CHOY99102
peakid: CHOY
year: 1999
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Inigo Extezarreta, Joseba Extezarreta
sponsor: Spanish Basques to Cho Oyu
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1999-04-16
smtdate: 1999-04-26
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to suspected pulmonary edema
campsites: BC(16/04?,5000m),ABC(19/04,5700m),C1(21/04?,6500m),xxx(26/04?,6900m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at Chinese Base Camp
  ABC at normal spot
  C1  at normal spot
  High point at plateau between C1 & C2.

  Neither Ingio nor Joseba can remember any exact dates nor do they have any records of them. Thus my account is more of an outline of their expedition. 

  Joseba and Ingio made many trips to C1. On their 3rd trip to C1 they spent the night and tried to go to C2. They turned back above the ice cliff at 6900m because Ingio was having trouble breathing and felt weak. They returned to ABC that night at 8:00 pm (April 26-28th?). They went to see the Colombian doctor (Carlos Rodriguez). The next morning Dr. Rodriquez determined Ingio had mild pulmonary edema and put him on Diamox for 4 days (no oxygen). Between April 28th-May 7? they made more carries to C1 and slept there with no problems.  They attempted to go to C2 one more time with Carlos Soria but turned back 500 ft out of C1.

  Due to the heat, this foray with Soria also has an unknown date. The last time Ingio and Joseba went to C1 was to help bring down Mari Abrego and Agustin Lopez, they think on May 9th they explained to me they abandoned their climb because they ran out of time. They ran out of time because 1) waiting for Ingio to recover from pulmonary edema, 2) they were slow to acclimatize, 3) when they learned Mari Abrego and Agustin Lopez were in trouble, they waited at ABC (waiting to be called in on the rescue).

  Ingio and Joseba had burnt faces as they forgot their sunscreen one day going to C1.


expid: CHOY99103
peakid: CHOY
year: 1999
route1: NW side (direct rte)
nation: Norway
leaders: Sven Gangdal
sponsor: Himalaya 1999 to Cho Oyu and Xixabangma
ascent1: 321
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1999-03-29
smtdate: 1999-04-13
smttime: 1245
termdate: 1999-04-19
othersmts: Climbed Xixabangma (May 3 Dawa Tashi/Sven Gangdal; May 4 Jon Gangdal)
campsites: BC(29/03,4900m),ABC(01/04,5800m),C1(05/04,6500m),C2(07/04,7100m),Smt(13/04)
achievment: 1st Norwegian to do two 8000ers in one season
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  BC  at Chinese BC on plateau
  ABC at standard location
  C2  at standard location.

  Sven Gangdal left for the summit and with Jon Gangdal, Dawa Tshering and Tamtin Sherpa at 2:30 am. Sven turned around at 4:30 am at 7500m due to exhaustion. They used the direct route through the rock band above C3. The Sherpas slept on oxygen but then climbed without it. Jon slept on 1 hour of oxygen and used it to climb from 7800m to the summit and back. Jon Gangdal is the first Norwegian to climb two 8000m peaks in one season. They were the only people to summit on April 13th. 

  They said they had a great view of Everest from the summit of Cho Oyu. On summit day they left high camp at 2:30 am and returned to high camp at 5:00 pm.

  The route on Cho Oyu this year was very dry. Lots of hard ice between C1 & C2 and lots of rock exposed from C3 to the summit.

  They placed prayer flags and a cross on the summit of Cho Oyu. They reached the summit at 12:45 pm. They all slept at C2 after the summit on April 13th.

  Kjetil Liokel attempted the summit of Xixibangma but turned back due to exhaustion. Tore Klokk and Erik Klaus Okstad did not continue to Xixabangma after Cho Oyu.

  Sherpas:
    Tamtin (Tamjin) Sherpa, Rolwaling, Beding, 1974, 
      1st 8000er on top; brother of Dawa Tashi of this expedition
    Dawa Tshering, 28, Rolwaling, Beding, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2 
    Dawa Tashi, Rolwaling, Beding, Everest X6, K2 (first Nepali to summit)
      Cho Oyu X2

  These were the same Sherpas for both Cho Oyu and Xixabangma.


expid: CHOY99104
peakid: CHOY
year: 1999
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Carlos Soria
sponsor: Independent climber
ascent1: 325
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1999-04-15
smtdate: 1999-04-30
smttime: 0945
termdate: 1999-05-05
othersmts: Attempted Xixabangma (10 May ABC, 11 May to 6000m)
campsites: BC(15/04,4800m),ABC(18/04,5400m),C1(27/04,6446m),C2(28/04,7100m),Smt(30/04)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at Chinese BC
  ABC at normal spot
  C1  at normal spot
  C2  at normal spot.

  They left C2 1:30 pm (China time). They returned to C2 at 3:30 pm (China time) Soria thinks they summited at 12:00 pm China time (9:45 NST). He saw prayer flags and the cross and Everest very clearly. On May 1st they went from C2 to ABC. They had a beautiful summit day.

  Soria left ABC 5 of May. He was in Tingiri from 5 May-8 May. Emillo Valle (Xixa leader, Spanish) was team who Carlos was going to climb with, but when Carlos got there they had already climbed and were going home. So Carlos came back to KTM 17 May 1999.

  Above ABC Soria used his own tent and cooking gear and had his own Sherpa with him.


expid: CHOY99105
peakid: CHOY
year: 1999
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Mari Abrego Santesteban
sponsor: Cho Oyu Mountain Expedition
ascent1: 334
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1999-04-15
smtdate: 1999-05-07
smttime: 1430
termdate: 1999-05-15
campsites: BC(15/04,4800m),ABC(18/04,5400m),C1(27/04,6446m),C2(05/05,7080m),C3(06/05,7482m),Smt(07/05)
accidents: Lopez frostbitten hands, snowblindness, hematoma on head from fall
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at Chinese BC
  ABC at traditional location
  C1  at traditional location
  C2  at    "           "
  C3  at    "           "

  On 7 May 5 persons and Tarke Sherpa left at 12:30 am NST from C3 to attempt summit (Abrego, Alvarez, Ibanez, Lopez and Valencia). Alvarez turned back 100m above C3 due to exhaustion. Ibanez turned back due to exhaustion at 8050m. Abrego, Lopez and Sherpa Tarke continued on. Mari Abrego and Agustin Lopez arrived at the summit at 2:30 pm NST. They saw crosses on the summit and Mt. Everest. As Abrego and Agustin climbed down visability became bad due to clouds. Below the summit plateau Agustin told Mari to head down and catch up with Tarke Sherpa. Mari Abrego radioed down at 4:00 pm NST saying he could not see Agustin. Abrego was now at 8000m. Abrego looked for Agustin on the right-hand side of the upper snowfield. Abrego found the pack of Lopez but not him. Abrego begun to walk down in the dark but could not find the way. It was getting dark and cloudy. Abrego radioed to ABC at 7:30 NST to say he was stuck and Lopez might be dead. A Sherpa named Pemba from OTT went from C2 and all the way to Abrego and 300m above C3 (at 11:30 pm NST). Then Abrego and Pemba spent the night at C3. Abrego and Pemba arrived at C2 at 1:00 am NST (approximately) On May 8th Abrego and Pemba went to C2 and arrived there at 2:00 pm NST.

  Jose Casimiro and Ang Phurba met them at C2 that afternoon. Everyone thought Agustin Lopez had died the night of May 8. Abrego, Casimiro, Phurba, Tarke and 2 or 3 other Spanish climbing members spent the night at C2.

  May 9th: Agustin Lopez arrived at C2 at 5:00 am. He arrived there without any help and without a back pack. Robert Rack initiated a rescue. The rescue team (including Rackl, Dr. Elizabeth Eulerich, many Sherpas and Abrego) put Lopez in a litter and left C2 at 7:30 am. They did not arrive at ABC until 6:00 pm.

  May 11th: M. Arraras, Agustin Lopez and Maria Carmen left Base Camp for KTM. The three arrived in KTM on May 12 and left for Madrid May 13th.

  Note: In the afternoon on May 7th and May 8th there was bad weather with some wind and a lot of snow coming down.

  Pemba, the rescuer, was Pemba Gyalje Sherpa of Pangkoma, Solu, 20/2/73.


  Events of Rescue for Agustin Lopez Cho Oyu 1999
  Source of information: Mari Abrego, Jose Casimiro (Spanish team)
  Dr. Elizabeth Eulerich and Olaf Rieck (German team)
  Date: May 17th 1999 
  Reported by Heather MacDonald

  May 6th: Olaf Rieck and Thomas Tuerpe left C1 at 8:00 pm NST, got to C2 at 11:00 am and left C2 at 9:00 pm, to the summit at 1:30 pm NST. The night of May 7th they slept at C3. They reached the summit with the Spanish Sherpa Tarke and on their way down saw Mari and Agustin at the edge of summit plateau (the day now being May 7th).

  May 7th: Mari and Agustin reached the summit at 2:30 pm NST. On the way down they met up with their Sherpa Tarke. Just below the summit plateau Agustin told Mari to go down ahead of him with Tarke. Tarke went to C3 and Mari was at 8000m waiting for Agustin. Mari did a quick search and found Agustin's pack but not him. It was getting dark and he radioed for help. Pemba, a Sherpa from OTT, went and got Mari 300m above C3. Agustin had taken a fall on the upper snowfield of Cho Oyu (8000m). He might have been knocked unconscious and so finding his way down took two days due to head trauma and not being able to find the route. The weather was BAD afternoon of May 7th and 8th snowing.

  May 8th: Mari Jose, Tarke and 2 other members spent the night at C2. Olaf, Elizabeth, Lydia, Thomas also spent the night at C2.

  May 9th: Robert Rackl from Amical German group heard cries at 4:00 am NST and it was Augustin coming into C2 on his own with no pack. Robert gave him cortizone shot and put him on oxygen. They built a litter w/pads and sleeping bags and carried Agustin down to a German C1 on the plateau. There Elizabeth gave him local painkillers injected into his frostbitten hands. They left C2 at 7:30 am NST and reached the upper C1 at 11:00 NST. Then at the traditional C1 Elizabeth gave him more care. She was treating for frostbite, snowblindness, dehydration and trauma to his head. Only his hands were frosbitten. He might lose a little of his pinkies. She also gave him 4.5 ml of dexamethazone in case of altitude illness or cerebral edema. But his lungs were clear. He had cuts on his scalp and a hematoma over his left eye. She also started on IV infusion of glucose for dehydration. They did not ABC until 6:00 pm NST and it took 30 people or more to bring him down. He stayed on the German oxygen from Amical the whole time, until A Lopez left Chinese ABC or even Tingri? Elizabeth administered care until A. Lopez left ABC on May 10th with Miguel Arraras and Maria Carmen. All three left Base Camp (Chinese) on May 11th and arrived in KTM May 12th. They left for Madrid on May 13th. Olaf also reports that the Spaniards he saw at 8000m on his way to the summit were chain smoking and vomiting. They were in terrible shape he said.

  *  Also note the weather was bad afternoon of May 7th-8th and that
     contributed to the difficulties of Mari and Agustin.


expid: CHOY99106
peakid: CHOY
year: 1999
route1: NW side
nation: Austria
leaders: Stefan Gatt
sponsor: Austrian Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 336,338,341
countries: Germany
approach: From Lhasa
bcdate: 1999-05-07
smtdate: 1999-05-19
smttime: 1430
termdate: 1999-05-27
accidents: Vitt snowblind
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(07/05),MiddleCamp(16/05,5350m),ABC(13/05,5750m),C1(15/05,6450m),C2(16/05,6800m),C3(18/05,7450m),Smt(19,22,25/05)

routememo:
  19 May Gatt snowboarded from start of slope of summit plateau at about 8100m to rock ridge, walked 30m again via board 8000m to C3 with very short break at yellow band and slept C3; took 2-1/2 hours to descend for Fritsche could record in photos; next day on snowboard all way from C3 to C2. 22nd summiters got to top after Italians who made good track to use (direct line). 25th summiters only ones this day.

  22nd summiters got to top after Italians who made good track to use (direct line). 25th summiters only team this day.


expid: CHOY99107
peakid: CHOY
year: 1999
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Robert Rackl
sponsor: Amical Alpin Cho Oyu Expedition 1999
ascent1: 337
countries: Austria, Luxembourg, Switzerland
bcdate: 1999-04-28
smtdate: 1999-05-20
smttime: 1100
termdate: 1999-05-24
campsites: BC(28/04),ABC(28/04,5650m),C1(02/05,6300m),C2(06/05,6900m),C3(18/05,7300m),Smt(20/05)
achievment: 1st Luxembourg woman on summit
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  2 porters to C3 for summit bids: one to C3 on 18th, had to stay extra day because night storm of snow and wind; 2nd to C3 on 19th (stayed in tents made available by OTT, who had been to top already). 2 down on 19th from 18th party down with bad headaches. 

  On 20th Hackl, Becherer, Everts, Farenzena, Schmitt, Beuter, Bielefeldt, Baeumler, Nistor, Zwahlen and Bischoff and Chuldim Sherpa started up to top between 3:00 and 6:00 am. All except Nistor to top: Nistor slight frostbite and down at nearby 8000m. On top between 11:00 and 12:00 and return to C2 between 4:00 and 9:30 pm (Bischoff and Zwahlen on to ABC). Bielefeldt came to C2 at 9:30 because of exhaustion and on 21st was helped down on oxygen to C1 and carried to ABC, given cortizone, etc; ABC to BC 2 days later on yak.

  Sherpa:
    Chuldim Sherpa, Khumjung, passport says born 1964, but looks like 30 years only,
      Everest summit 1998

accidents:
  Nistor slight frostbite; Bielefeldt serious exhaustion; Brandner altitude sickness in ABC and left team


expid: CHOY99108
peakid: CHOY
year: 1999
route1: NW side
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Martin Kueng
sponsor: Swiss-German Double Expedition 99
ascent1: 324,326
countries: Germany
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1999-04-06
smtdate: 1999-04-26
smttime: 1315
termdate: 1999-05-04
othersmts: Climbed Xixabangma (Borrmann and Kueng summited 2-3 May)
campsites: BC(06/04,4900m),ABC(09/04,5700m),C1(17/04,6400m),C2(23/04,6800m),C3(25/04,7400m),Smt(26/04,01/05)
agency: Gaurishankar
routememo:
  Boll and Borrmann started from C3 at 2 am and after summit returned to C3 to sleep. Got to C3 at 4 pm.

  Brahmer and Kueng started from C3 at 2 am and returned to C2. Kueng got to C2 at 4 pm. Brahmer turned back at 7500m because it was too cold, [Kueng summited]. Each member made only one summit bid on Cho Oyu. Made two bids on Xixabangma. Brahmer had left after Cho Oyu.

  On 25 April 3 from Colombian team summitted. No other groups summited on 26 April or 1 May. On 4 May 2 Canadians made a second summit bid but not sure whether they reached the top or not.


expid: CHOY99109
peakid: CHOY
year: 1999
route1: NW side
nation: Bulgaria
leaders: Doychin Vassilev
sponsor: Bulgarian Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: From Xixabangma
bcdate: 1999-05-07
smtdate: 1999-05-17
termdate: 1999-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to bad weather
othersmts: Climbed Xixabangma [north peak?] (1 May by Salova)
campsites: BC(07/05,5000m),ABC(08/05,5850m),C1(14/05,6500m),C2(15/05,7100m),xxx(17/05,8000m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  On 17 May came down to C2. Didn't go up again because of bad weather. 18th May was windy.

  17th May there were from another team two Germans, 2 Swiss were together but stopped at C3. The 2 Swiss reached the summit on 19 via left of the glacier.

  No Sherpas at all.


expid: CHOY99110
peakid: CHOY
year: 1999
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Romano Benet
sponsor: Italian team to Cho Oyu
ascent1: 338
approach: By jeep from BC of Xixabangma->BC of Cho Oyu
bcdate: 1999-05-15
smtdate: 1999-05-22
smttime: 1200
termdate: 1999-05-26
othersmts: Climbed Xixabangma (Benet on 12 May, Meroi also?)
campsites: BC(15/05,5000m),ABC(17/05,5700m),C1(19/05,6300m),C2(20/05,6900m),C3(21/05,7300m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Started at 6 am from C3. Came back to BC got to BC at 7:00 pm (Chinese Time).  Did not set up camp before hand (alpine-style).


expid: CHOY99111
peakid: CHOY
year: 1999
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Thomas Richardson
sponsor: OTT (Out There Trekking) Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 335
countries: Chile, Netherlands, Sweden, USA
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1999-04-24
smtdate: 1999-05-18
smttime: 1100
termdate: 1999-05-26
campsites: BC(24/04,4800m),ABC(27/04,5700m),C1(30/04,6400m),C2(11/05,7500m),Smt(18/05)
achievment: 1st Chilean woman to summit and 1st Chilean woman atop any 8000er
agency: Nepal Myths & Mountain Trails
routememo:
  BC  at Chinese Base Camp
  ABC at normal spot
  C1  at normal spot
  C2  at normal spot
  C3  at Tichy camp in Basin.

  Party for summit crom C3 on 15th May reached yellow band and very cold and returned to C2; 17th in C3 again. On 18 May 8 people left C3 at 12:00 pm NST (Pemba, Prieto, Fernando, Richardson, Illing, Burring, Vivianne Cuq, Christian Cuq) and 2 reached the top. Richardson, Illing and Burring turned at 2:30 am NST due to bad weather (snowing) and not feeling comfortable without fixed ropes - these 3 turned at the bottom of the yellow band. V. Cuq and C. Cuq (sister and brother) turned back at 8050m concerned about weather and not comfortable on the terrain. Prieto and Fernando to top [at 11:00 NST]. With 2 Chileans to top was Pemba Sherpa who went for summit bid with other OTT clients. When others went only to yellow band and turned back, Pemba went on to top with Chileans. Prieto, Fernando and Pemba returned to C3 and spent the night. Richardson, Illing and Burring went to C1 and spent the night. They arrived at 5:00 pm NST. 

  Chileans had been provided with another Sherpa, but he was fat and useless, went only as far as C1. Chilean party were semi-independent: brought their own tents and sleeping bags but not food (hated OTT food and ate with Colombians and Russians, or Sherpas). Leader of Chilean party was Dr. Mauricio Purto (former Everest summiter). He was at BC briefly.
   
  Campsites for Chilean group:

    BC(24/04,4800m),ABC(26/04,5700m),C1(02/05,6400m),C2(03/05,7200m),
      C3(12/05,7600m),Smt(18/05) 

  Rob Callingham, the doctor, went home 25 April because he was not acclimatizing. Dave Hall and Jeff Pierce went home 8 May; Dave was having problems with his ankle (bad sprain), and Jeff was not acclimatizing.

  Richardson's team was involved in 3 rescues. The first rescue was Mari Abrego and Agustin. Richardson was at ABC on May 7th and heard the Spaniards were in trouble. Pemba and Gombu (summited Cho Oyu and Xixi before on trips w/Mal Duff). Were at C2 and he (Richardson) ordered the Sherpas to find Mari Abrego. Pemba found Meri. Pemba is a hero.

  Richardson and his team went to the bottom of the scree slope to help carry Agustin back to ABC on May 9th. They left ABC in the morning and did not return until dark.

  Amical went to the summit on May 20. On 21 May they came down from C3 to ABC.  Richardson was at ABC. When he learned that two clients of Robert Rackl's were exhausted and frostbitten hands. Richardson and his team met Rackl's group at the bottom of scree slope with oxygen. They put one of Rackl's clients on OTT oxygen and the other client could walk. Rackl's had made a litter with a Gamov bag. The badly injured client not inside the bag but on top.

  * May 17th was a tough summit day due to wind and snow coming down. 
    There was some trail-breaking to do.

  * Spaniards promised to give Pemba 1000 US$ in thanks for rescuing Mari.
    In the end they were reluctant to give, but Richardson made them pay the money.


expid: CHOY99112
peakid: CHOY
year: 1999
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Shinji Takahashi
bcdate: 1999-04-04
smtdate: 1999-04-27
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to Takahashi illness
campsites: BC(04/04),ABC(06/04,5500m),C1(14/04,6200m),C2(22/04,7000m),C3(25/04,7660m),xxx(27/04,8000m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Summit bid ended when Takahashi developed diarrhea at 8000m and had to descend. Slept in C3 on 27th, C1 28th, ABC 29th, BC 30th.


expid: CHOY99113
peakid: CHOY
year: 1999
route1: NW side
nation: Russia
leaders: Alexander Abramov
sponsor: First Moscow Himalaya Expedition to Cho Oyu
ascent1: 340
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1999-04-23
smtdate: 1999-05-23
smttime: 1340
campsites: BC(23/04,4800m),ABC(25/04,5700m),C1(29/04,6400m),C2(04/05,7100m),C3(12/05,7500m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C3 established 22 May, not slept because of bad weather returned then ferried other stuff - they lost some stuff.

  Took an hour and half from the plateau to the summit. The weather was bad, too cloudy and windy. Larin started from C3 at 5:30 am; Abramov started at 5:40 am; then Abramova at 6:00 am; Khokhlov, Cherny and Yelagin started at 7:00 am. Started at different times because it took time to get ready. Cherny, Khokhlov, Larin slept at C3. Abramov, Abramova, Yelagin slept at C2.

  It was the first summit bid by Russians. On 23 May 2 Austrians left C3 but returned because of bad weather. Lack of acclimatization. On 22 May two Austrians summited.


expid: CHOY99114
peakid: CHOY
year: 1999
route1: NW side (direct rte)
route2: NW side
nation: Mexico
leaders: Andreas Delgado
sponsor: Mexican Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 322
ascent2: 327
bcdate: 1999-04-04
smtdate: 1999-04-23
smttime: 0955
termdate: 1999-05-09
campsites: BC(04/04),ABC(07/04,6400m),C2(22/04,7100m),Smt(23/04,03/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  23rd Delgado left C2 1:30 am NST with Ochoa and climbed straight line. Ochoa abandoned attempt at 7600m where he saw body and so upset him he turned back and down to ABC. Delgado continued to top at 9:55 am and to the C2 at 1:30 pm - to ABC 24th. Both left 29th for C1 and 1st to C2 and 2nd made C3 for ascent via normal curved route. 3rd left C3 at 3:00 am and on top 11:45 am together and down to C2 at 4:00 pm and ABC on 4th. 9th ABC to BC to Tingri. Worked together with Colombians but summit on different days - "smooth expedition."

  Orsorio went only to BC, then trekked around area - had slight altitude problem but also psychological problems (going through a divorce).


expid: CHOY99115
peakid: CHOY
year: 1999
route1: NW side
nation: Colombia
leaders: Juan Pablo Ruiz
sponsor: Lennin Granados Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 323,330
bcdate: 1999-04-05
smtdate: 1999-04-25
smttime: 1430
termdate: 1999-05-09
campsites: BC(05/04,4800m),ABC(09/04,5700m),C1(12/04,6300m),C2(17/04,7100m),C3(28/04,7400m),Smt(25/04,05/05)
accidents: Ospina and Camargo altitude sickness
achievment: 1st Colombian ascent
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  C3 at just below yellow band (Swiss C3).

  25 April 1st summit attempt from C2 by Arbelaez, Barrios, Gonalez-Rubio; on top and back in 18 hours, on top at 14:30 NST (left C2 3:00 am; back in C2 at 18:30 hours). Only summiters on 25th from any expedition very windy on top where found Norwegians cross; could not see Everest through clouds. Next summit bid made after establishing C3 because too long distance without it and 25 April summiters very tired. 

  Next try for top on 29th from C3 but Ospina got cerebral edema just after left tent to go up so he and Cardona down instead and reached ABC same day and Ok. 

  Next attempt [5 May] from C3 now placed at 7500m by Cardona, Ariano, Ruiz and Camargo; Camargo only to 7550m and not feeling well (cerebral edema starting); left C3 at 0:30 hours and summit trio on top 7:30 hrs after 3/4 hour stop at 7800m in bad wind; very windy on top but very clean and saw Everest; back to C2 11:20 hours, C1 with Camargo and Cardona to ABC same day.


expid: CHOY99116
peakid: CHOY
year: 1999
route1: NW side (direct rte from C3)
nation: USA
leaders: James Bach
sponsor: Sri Chinmoy Expedition to Cho Oyu
ascent1: 329,331
countries: Canada
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1999-04-05
smtdate: 1999-05-04
smttime: 0900
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(05/04,5000m),ABC(08/04,5700m),C1(16/04,6500m),C2(26/04,7100m),C3(03/05,7500m),C3(05/05),Smt(04,06/05)

routememo:
  BC at Chinese Base Camp.

  On April 21st Bach, Gauthier and Robinson left from C2 3:30 am via Carsolio route (up gullies to the right) and turned back at 8000m due to exhaustion. They used no oxygen and no Sherpas. They returned to C2 at 1:30 pm. On May 3rd another summit attempt was made by Robinson and Wyatt. They left C3 at 12:00 pm. They reached the top at 9:00 am. They slept at C3 when they returned from summit and then ABC next day. On the third summit attempt Bach and Gauthier left C3 at 12:30 pm and reached the summit at 9:00 am.

  Gauthier went to C2 after summit and so did Bach. Bach and Gauthier say they saw Everest on May 6th, no other teams were with them except an unknown solo climber.

  Robinson and Wyatt say it was cloudy but they cross and prayer flags, 3 American women (Supy, Georgie, Kathryn) summitted same day (4 May) before Robinson and Wyatt did.

  * Robinson carried the peace torch to summit, it was lit there for 2-3 minutes.

  * Sri Chimnoy gave rope and hardware to the Norwegians for their efforts
  in fixing the rope.


expid: CHOY99117
peakid: CHOY
year: 1999
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Amy (Supy) Bullard
sponsor: The Women's Century Expedition to Cho Oyu
ascent1: 328
bcdate: 1999-04-06
smtdate: 1999-05-04
campsites: BC(06/04,5000m),ABC(10/04,5700m),C1(15/04,6400m),C2(30/04,7000m),C3(03/05,7450m),Smt(04/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Climbed as teams of 3 each - other 3 headed for C3 on 8th May but whiteout sent down to C2 same day and 9th to ABC. On 9th decided to go up and clean C2 with climb finished.

  Cho Oyu news from Liane Owens:

  Ok, to get on with the latest... right this minute, Georgie, Supy and Kathryn are going out of sight over the horizon of the summit! It is 10:40 [China time?] and they will probably will summit in an hour. The weather is great for it - calm and clear. This morning was so cold though that two of them thought of turning aroung at 2 or 3 in the morning. It takes about 12 hours to summit from C3 and get down to C2 if all goes well and smooth. They are moving very slowly, up through an upper snowfield and rockbands, as one must to conserve energy at that great altitude.

  Let's see, to let you know how things are here. Well as you can imagine, many things revolve around the weather. It was very stable and predictable for at least a week, before the full moon. Then a few says ago it began to get less stable. We have even had two lightning and thunder storms, one when Georgie, Supy and Kathryn were at C1, which is on a fairly exposed ridge. They spent over an hour crouched in the position of safety and their hair and the radio were buzzing. Down here it was spectacular, with no pause between the lightning and thunder at the height of it. Cara was very scared, as she got struck by lightning this summer and was paralyzed on the right side of her body for some days. I'm glad it wasn't her up there this time.

  So the mornings have been generally clear, but not always calm, and wind is one of the things we are most wary of. One can look up at the ridges and peak of Cho Oyu and see if snow is blowing about up there. The worst is a lenticular (lens-shaped) cloud sitting like a cap on the peak, but luckily we not seen many of those. In the afternoons, there is a lot of moisture buildup and the valleys sometimes fill with clouds. On occasion these lead to afternoon snowshowers, such as the day that Caroline, Cara and I went up to C2 to spend the night for the firsts time. It was a perfect day, so hot that I only had on two layers top and bottom, and thin liner gloves while ascending the icefalls.  These are quite interesting: this year was such a dry winter in the Himalayas that there is a lot of blue ice on the route, that is usually covered with snow. In fact, the route is harder this year because of the lack of snow.  Between C1 and C2 there is approx 1000 ft of roped travel up steep ice. One attaches oneself with an ascender, kicking in with ones crampons and hauling oneself up on the rope.

  Anyway, I got to C2 at 1:40 in the afternoon, a bit ahead of the others. I cleared out the tent vestibule and started the stove to make water - it takes hours of melting snow up here to get enough water for everyone to stay well hydrated. By the time the others got there a cloud had descended so that one could not see more than 100 ft, the wind picked up and it was starting to snow little. We jumped in the tent (a crowded affair, with all our packs and extra clothes piled at the bottom to even out the tilty floor). Well, in the end it was a windy, snowy night. We ate soups and mashed potatoes for dinner, made water till 9 pm, then slept, waking often. I got out once for clear the snow drifts from around the tent.

  In the morning, it was nasty until about 8 am when the wind died down and we got ready to go. Packed up by 10, we started back down, satisfied with the work we done and having stayed up at a new elevation successfully.

  So now, we have about 4 rest days before our turn at the summit. That has been the pattern: go up with a load for 2 or 3 days, come down exhausted, rest for 2 to 3 days, then go up again, since we are working in two groups of 3, we leapfrog each other. As we were on our way down, for instance, we met with the other 3 at C1 and exchanged information and well wishes for their summit attempt.


expid: CHRI99201
peakid: CHRI
year: 1999
route1: S Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yoshio Morikubo
sponsor: Tokyo Worker's Alpine Federation Chhukung Ri Expedition 1999
bcdate: 1999-08-15
smtdate: 1999-08-15
termdate: 1999-08-17
termnote: Success to Chhukung Ri (S Summit)
campsites: BC(15/08,4750m),Smt(15-17/08)
agency: Sherpa Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC at just above Chhukung Village.

  Made no camp on biv above BC but climbed to South Summit (Chhukung Ri) 5550m high from BC and returned to BC. Summit party of 16th left BC at 6:25 am and on top 10:20 am and back BC 12:55 pm. Mrs Takahashi said not difficult except for last 100m steep knife ridge. Ang Babu (of Sherpa Summit Trekking) went to top on 15 Aug to see route, and was there with both summit parties to top on 16th and 17th.

  19 members to top on 16 Aug: Aizawa, Akai, Endo, Hashi, Ito, Kamei, Kono, Miyahara, Morimoto, Nakamura, Namiki, Odaira, Mrs Okumo, Sakurai, Takamo, Takahashi, Yamano, Yoshijima, Zanme.

  Leader Morikubo got altitude sickness before reaching BC and turned back, S. Okuma got sick in BC and did not go higher; Yasuda same (both left after 1 night at BC); Namiki got sick at BC, used oxygen and to top on 16 Aug.


expid: DHA199101
peakid: DHA1
year: 1999
route1: NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Ed Viesturs
sponsor: 1999 Manaslu/Dhaulagiri 99
ascent1: 102
countries: Finland
approach: By helicopter after Manaslu ascent
bcdate: 1999-04-30
smtdate: 1999-05-04
termdate: 1999-05-07
othersmts: Climbed Manaslu (MANA-991-03)
campsites: BC(30/04,4800m),C1(02/05,6250m),C2(03/05,7250m),Smt(04/05)
achievment: New route between 5650m and 6250m
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 on NE ridge
  C2 at normal C3 on NE Ridge.

  Didn't go to NE Col but went directly up from 5650m on normal route via line through icefall and crevasses and steep slope but shorter (would not want to carry heavy losses here). No one else on the mountain at this time. 4th May started for top from C2 at 2:30 am in little wind, hard snow and full moon. 10:30 am on summit via traverse around false summit done far to right and then back left to true top. Could see body of Swiss from '95 (Joos expedition). Had problem to get to C2 in afternoon in whiteout snow falling and being blown around. Viesturs had insisted on taking words on ascent at traverse and they made descent "much easier"; had to wait from time to time for weather to clear briefly. Got to C2 at 2:20 pm and stayed night there despite intention to go lower. Down to BC 5 May.

  "Were very happy about climbs," says Viesturs. "It was a real adventure" with no one else around much of the time doing our route. Climbing Manaslu, having good climbing conditions, perfect weather.


expid: DHA199102
peakid: DHA1
year: 1999
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Martin Fischer
sponsor: Swiss Dhaulagiri Expedition
bcdate: 1999-04-29
smtdate: 1999-05-26
termdate: 1999-05-31
termnote: Abandoned at 7350m due to difficult snow conditions and lack of strength
campsites: BC(29/04,4700m),C1(04/05,5700m),C2(18/05,6550m),C3(26/05,7350m),xxx(26/05,7350m)
accidents: Berni stomach problem; high altitude porter Arjun Tamang cerebral edema
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  C1 near Naike Col
  High point at C3.

  Apr 29th: arriving in BC
  Apr 30th: arriving of Ed and Veikka by helicopter
  May 2nd:  transport to C1
  May 4th:  first night in C1 for Burgener, Sporri, Lauber and Sherpas. 
            Ed and Veikka on summit
  May 5th:  material depot at 6300m
  May 6th:  first night for Berni and Fischer in C1 (after stomach
            problems in BC)
  May 7th:  Berni and Lauber back to BC. Rest of the group material transport 
            to C2. Prepare tent place, return to C1, rest of day in C1
  May 8th:  rest day in C1
  May 9th:  previewed transport to C2 had to be cancelled because
            of bad weather. Return to BC.
  May 10th-12th: rest in BC because of bad weather
  May 13th: weather still bad, no snowfall. Burgener, Lauber, Sporri,
            Fischer, Pasang and Arjun go up to C1.
  May 14th: return of this group to BC because start snowing again
  May 15-16th: weather is getting better. Danger of avalanches.
  May 17th: C1 (all climbers) 30 to 50 cm fresh snow
  May 18th: Burgener, Sporri, Fischer and Sherpas to C2. Very hard 
            conditions because of the fresh snow (old snow beyond was 
            still very soft). Our depot on the prepared camp place is 
            under 2m of wind-driven snow.
  May 19th: after two very hard days Burgener and Sporri go back to C1
            Fischer and Sherpas start to C3. Fischer returns after
            6800m back to C2. Pasang and Arjun reach C3 on 7250m,
            make a depot and return to C2. Together with Fischer back to
            C1 in the evening. Lauber and Berni go back to BC.
  May 21st  all back to BC
  May 22nd-23rd rest days in BC
  May 24th: all to C1 except Berni (still stomach problems)
  may 25th: C2
  May 26th: climb to C3 with the main part of the material and with
            exchanging of some old fix ropes. Arriving at C3 at 3:30 
            pm only. Because of much less snow we had to make half of the 
            tent platform in the ice by ice axe, what takes us another 3 hours.
  May 27th: after a difficult night Lauber and Sporri return to C2 and
            C1 in the morning. Burgener, Fischer and Sherpas intend to have
            a rest day and to start to the summit early the next morning.
            Bernadette didn't feel good so that I decided in the afternoon
            to stop the expedition here and to go down to C2 with everything.
  May 28th: return to BC with all equipment.
  May 29th: cerebral edema of Arjun during the night. Sending kitchen boy
            to Marpha for calling helicopter.
  May 30th: helicopter flight for Arjun and Pasang to KTM
  May 31th  way back to Marpha for members
  June 1st: rest day in Marpha
  June 2nd: flight back from Jomsom to KTM

  Notes:
  - during the first period we had excellent conditions
  - after the snowfall the conditions were hard because the old snow under
    the fresh snow was very soft
  - C1 was near the col on 5700m, C2 on 6550m
  - between 5600m and 5800m the glacier was extremely open, the snow
    bridges very weak
  - Ruedi Berni had stomach problems since arriving BC. He reached C2 
    without sleeping there. He left BC with us.
  - the way to C3 on 27th May took us much more time as we calculated
    (heavy bags, controlling fix ropes, new fix points). So we arrived 3 
    hours later than previewed.
  - the preparation of the camp platform by ice axes took us too much 
    power. Instead of resting, cooking, drinking and eating during the 
    whole afternoon we were extremely engaged to put up the tent before 
    night. That is the main reason, why we didn't start to the summit the
    next morning.
  - at least we are very happy that we returned to BC without climbing
    higher. If Arjun got his edema in C3 or two it would be extremely
    critical.
  - the weather between the 23rd and 29th May was absolutely excellent!
  - we didn't use any oxygen, except of Arjun's edema and Ruedi's stomach 
    problem we all was in really good health, no frostbites, no accidents.
  - the BC is extremely dirty. Hundreds of empty tins, bottles and any 
    other kind of garbage is lieing around

  Fischer's report to Tourism Ministry on 3 June 99 said:

  BC - 29 April at 4700m
  C1 - 4  May 5700m
  C2 - 18 May 6500m
  C3 - 26 May 7350m by Burgener, Fischer, Lauber, Sporri

  Abandoned climb at 7350m 27 May because of "difficult conditions." Left BC 31 May and returned to Kathmandu on 2 June.

  Two "Sherpas" went above BC and high-altitude porter Arjun Tamang got
  cerebral edema at BC.


expid: DHAM99101
peakid: DHAM
year: 1999
route1: SW Face (new line)
nation: S Korea
leaders: Go In-Gyung
sponsor: Pagoda Himalayan Expedition
ascent1: 14th
countries: Australia, Canada, USA
approach: Via Kali Gandaki from Beni
bcdate: 1999-04-14
smtdate: 1999-04-19
smttime: 0720
termdate: 1999-04-20
campsites: BC(14/04,4100m),ABC(18/04,5200m),Smt(19/04)
accidents: Only mild altitude illness
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  BC  on trail to Dhampus Pass, south of point 4908m
  ABC on trail before Dhampus Pass.

  11:00 pm on 18 April Go In-Gyung, Hong Sung-Taek and Park left ABC to climb to top and reached top on 19th at 7:20 am via SE Face, which became steep in last 150m. On 16th all 4 male members attempted to climb from BC via a line between SW Ridge and a SW Spur but last 100m because nearly vertical rock face, too difficult technically for Go and others; turned back at 5700m.

  Keeley returned to Tukuche Village after 2 days of not acclimatizing and Dunn the same after 3 days; Lambert left 18th with altitude sickness. All members reached ABC. Route on SW Face, a new line; did not go to top via a ridge

  Go chose Dhampus because he wanted to reach at 6000m summit.

  Thapa Peak and Dhampus are same - there is only one peak there, not two peaks.


expid: DORJ99101
peakid: DORJ
year: 1999
route1: W Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Rene de Bos
sponsor: Dutch Dorje Lhakpa Expedition 99
approach: Langshisa Karka
bcdate: 1999-04-25
smtdate: 1999-05-10
termdate: 1999-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to dangerous slopes and time constraints
campsites: BC(25/04,4900m),C1(27/04,5400m),C2(05/05,6100m),xxx(10/05,6200m)
accidents: Westbroek twisted knee badly on approach march; Debos and Van der Werf snowblinded after climb
achievment: 1st Dutch attempt
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Langshisa Tang Glacier - "s" on Austrian map Langshisa Tang
  C1 at west end of West Ridge in small col
  C2 on West Ridge
  High point at West Ridge.

  Dorje Lhakpa known as snow mountain and brought 100 snow bars and used none, 120 ice screws taken, used 80+. Very happy expedition; beautiful without snow on ridge, loose boulders very unstable with 60% slopes on both sides, expedition crossing it 10 times too much risk. Possible in alpine-style - also had time constraint.


expid: EVER99101
peakid: EVER
year: 1999
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Sergio Martini
sponsor: East-West Everest Expedition
ascent1: 329
countries: Japan, Spain
bcdate: 1999-04-19
smtdate: 1999-05-26
smttime: 1130
termdate: 1999-06-01
campsites: BC(19/04),ABC(23/04,6400m),C1(26/04,7000m),C2(08/05,7700m),C3(25/05,8200m),Smt(26/05)
accidents: Martini tooth infection but soon resumed climbing
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  26 May 1st summit bid - 2:00 am NST Martini Lago, Samdu and Valentini left C3 and started up. Valentini 1 hour (100m) up, tired and down to C1. On top Martini 11:30 am, Lago 12:30 pm and Samdu 12:25 pm and Lago to C3 Martini and Samdu to C2. 27th all to ABC. 

  Leviti on 27th May tried for top with another expedition but reached 8400m and turned back, tired.

  Martini 8000m "finished for me." He had no sponsors as climb was "for me," but not stopping climbing and may go back again to 8000m.

  Samdu Sherpa, 19/10/69?, friends say 25 years, village Makalu VDC.


expid: EVER99102
peakid: EVER
year: 1999
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Alain Hubert
sponsor: Independent climber
bcdate: 1999-04-06
smtdate: 1999-05-18
termnote: Abandoned at 8450m due to stomach illness
campsites: BC(06/04),ABC(12/04,6400m),C1(19/04,7000m),C2(7800m),C3(25/04,8300m),xxx(18/05,8450m)
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C2 never slept in (only for brief stage)
  C3 only for search for Debrouwer.
  High point just below First Step.

  Climbed mostly near Debrouwer and Garcia. 16 May Pascal started up for top from ABC at 5:00 am and joined Hubert and Joao at N Col 8:00 am and rested. Joao started up 7:30 am and Hubert and Pascal started from Col at 9:00 am and arrived at C2 2:30 pm and Joao had already left C2 with small tent and cooking gear to put at C3 with plan for Pascal and Hubert to come later. Pascal left C2 5:00 pm, but Hubert decided to stop (stomach trouble) and down to C1 and ABC 17 May. Pascal arrived at C3 on or before 10:00 pm and Joao there; they ate and had tea. They left C3 together and Joao faster than Pascal. Joao on top about 1:30-2:00 pm 17 May and Pascal just below top started to use oxygen (Joao no oxygen) and on top at 4:00 pm and both left top 4:30 pm (Joao had come down to look for Pascal and both to top together). Top of 2nd Step together and Pascal (still in oxygen) found route down Step at about 7:30-8:00 pm, just getting dark and they had no headlamp and no moonlight. After got to bottom of Step, Joao went ahead and biv top of First Step to wait for Pascal. Joao woke up about 5:00 am 18th no Pascal. Joao was near top of 1st Step and able to come to C3 and only now he used walkie-talkie to call other at about 8:00 am and said he would take water and oxygen from C3 up to Pole, but now Pawlowski, little below 1st Step, reported he shook Pascal and said was dead; besides Pawlowski had asked for rescue for himself. Pawlowski reached C3, when there were 2 of his Sherpas and Hubert urged Pawlowski to send them up to Pascal but they went down. Hubert convinced Joao to go down and he did; Joao alone without strength. Now Hubert asked Mondinelli to go up from C3 to with Sherpas to rescue Pascal and they did at 4:00-4:30 pm and just as they had stated, saw person getting up, trying to go down and finally falling long way. Joao arrived C2 5:00-7:00 pm and refused all help including oxygen and continued down. 10:00 pm Hubert asked Brazilians to search for Joao which Brazilian man did but no success. Both Brazilians up again and did find Joao below Col sleeping; now took him up to Col and took care of him there and next down to ABC on 19th.

  24th May Hubert up from ABC to find body and also if possible to go to top but saw nothing. Slept at Col and up from Col at 7:00 am; reached C3 8:00 pm again searching for Pascal with Man Ram Tamang, cook who was with Hubert much of the time, taking oxygen. Found C3 tent and nothing in it, Hubert had taken only gas cartridge so was in trouble but made bid to wait for daylight and on up to search but without eating and drinking. Stopped search at about 8400m just below 1st Step at 9:00 am, now had to go down and arrived ABC, taking down C3 and C2 tents, etc and arrived ABC 4:00 pm. 27th to North Col to bring gear down. Hubert left with job of clearing camps; other members were either already gone or not real climbers.

  This was Hubert's 5th time on Everest and cannot come again till 2003 because of many projects already scheduled, but he needs Everest summit for his Third Pole - "its an easy mountain."


expid: EVER99103
peakid: EVER
year: 1999
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: S Africa
leaders: Ian Woodall
sponsor: Everest 1999
ascent1: 335
countries: UK
bcdate: 1999-05-01
smtdate: 1999-05-29
smttime: 0800
termdate: 1999-06-03
achievment: 1st woman to top from North and South
agency: Sherpa Cooperative Trekking (SCT)
campsites:
  BC(01/05),ABC(05/05-Sherpas),ABC(07/05,6400m),C1(10/05,7000m),C2(27/05,7600m),C3(28/05,8300m),Smt(29/05)

routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C2 on North Ridge
  C3 on North Face.

  Both members and 2 Sherpas left C3 at 12:30 pm. Weather changed for worse (winds came up) at 2:00 pm and made descent below C3 "unpleasant." Going up got to bottom of 2nd Step as sun was rising (had full moon all the time going up and saw moon setting as sun was rising - completely clear at climber's altitude and above). Climb was quite hard with unexpectedly little snow on loose rock and First and Second Step technically more difficult than Hillary Step. Cathy at summit 8:00 am and Ian at 8:10 am; Jangbu on top 8:00 am and Pemba with Ian at 8:10 am. Cathy stayed 45 minutes on top; left 8:45 am with Jangbu while Ian and Pemba left 8:30 am (doesn't like rock and waited to get past rock ridge as soon as possible). Found Babu Chiri's mattress lying on top as well as large portrait of Dalai Lama. In descent Cathy soon caught up with Ian and all 4 to C3 at 1:00 pm and down to C2 to sleep at 6:00 pm (high wind and snow below C3).

  Cathy and Ian want to return Nepal for Makalu or Kangchenjunga Spr 2000 - both want to climb 5 highest mountains of Nepal.


expid: EVER99104
peakid: EVER
year: 1999
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Pascal Debrouwer
sponsor: Belgian International Everest Expedition
ascent1: 322
countries: Brazil, France, Portugal
bcdate: 1999-04-06
smtdate: 1999-05-18
smttime: 1330
termdate: 1999-05-26
campsites: BC(06/04),ABC(13/04,6400m),C1(20/04,7000m),C2(7800m),C3(8200m),Smt(18/05)
accidents: Joao bad frostbite both hands and nose; both feet also frostbitten
achievment: 1st Portuguese on summit
agency: None
routememo:
  C2 not slept in (place to rest & drink)
  C3 next to Kazakh body (also not slept in).

  Left supplies and tent at C2 at 7500m on 21 April but not occupied, used for resting only. Long times in BC after this because of strong winds at highest altitudes. Joao and Pascal tried for top on 4th May: to C2, spent few hours at C2 and down during night when winds had dropped; down to ABC and 5th to BC where was fresh food.

  Next summit bid: 15th both from BC to ABC with Hubert and Sherpa (Hubert turned back before C2) which Joao and Pascal kept on up: 16 Joao to North Col and Pascal stayed in ABC and up early from ABC and joined Joao at Col 7:00 am. Left together from North Col at 8:00 am 17th and climbed to C2, made drinks there. Joao left C2 with tent and oxygen at 2:30 pm and Pascal left 4:30 pm (he wanted to spend little time at altitude but Joao wanted time to pitch C3 in daylight). Joao arrived at C3 6:00 pm and Pascal at 8:00 pm. Joao and Pascal left C3 together at midnight and reached summit: Joao at 1:30-2:00 pm then spent about 2 hours looking for tripod and taking photo; Pascal joined Joao about 3:30 pm. Started down together and reached 2nd Step, now getting dark and Joao and Debrouwer had left head camps in a bag below. Joao went ahead, Pascal would catch up with him while Joao rested/dozed. This happened several times but one time Pascal did not come. Joao woke up and down alone to C3 at 7:00 am 19 May. Joao tried to go up to search for Pascal but not strong enough and had to turn down. Now so confused by altitude, had only wool gloves and fingers badly frostbitten now during day of 19th. Came to North Col during evening 8:00 pm of 19th, very slow semi-conscious and reached ABC on 20th. Pascal was shaken by Polish Sherpas below 1st Step but did not react and Sherpas left him. Mondinelli Sherpas saw Pascal fall 19th May from 8300-8400m and body not seen later.

  Garcia and Debrouwer did all the high climbing of the team. Alain Hubert, independent Belgian, climbed with them sometimes; other members were "useless."

  Mondinelli - 26 May: Pascal seen on 19 May at 2:30 pm falling after taking 4 steps at 8400m halfway between C3 and First Step - fell as Mondinelli, Miss Pasaban and 3 Sherpas had started towards him to help him, but when they saw him fall, did not continue towards him any longer because didn't know how far he fell.

  Brice - 9 June 99: Debrouwer and Garcia certainly were not strong enough climbers to attempt successfuly the sort of ascent they did make with such disastrous results - and they made the entire program for the expedition just for their own plans. Brice confirms their summit date was 18 May.


expid: EVER99105
peakid: EVER
year: 1999
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Silvio Mondinelli
sponsor: Everest Team
countries: Spain
bcdate: 1999-04-13
smtdate: 1999-05-18
termdate: 1999-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to wind and lack of time
campsites: BC(13/04),ABC(17/04,6400m),C1(25/04,7000m),C2(28/04,7700m),C3(18/05,8300m),xxx(18/05,8300m)
accidents: Magliano bronchitis and left expedition 22 April
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  High point at North Face.

  After C2 established down to rest in BC 3 days, then went to C2 but bad winds and down to ABC. 4 days there and then to C2 and C3 on 18 May, stayed C3 1 days but strong wind again down 19th evening and in ABC at 10:00 pm in this bad weather with no chance to go to top in next few days. Climb finished on 22 May when it became clear that Mondinelli could not go from ABC to top in one day, as he wished, and soon Mondinelli had to return to work.


expid: EVER99106
peakid: EVER
year: 1999
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Wilfried Studer
bcdate: 1999-04-23
smtdate: 1999-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 8450m due to bad cough
campsites: BC(23/04),ABC(29/04,6400m),C1(06/05,7050m),C2(24/05,7900m),C3(25/05,8400m),xxx(26/05,8450m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C2 at high sites
  C3 at high sites
  High point at North Face.

  26th May left C3 2 Studers together at 3:00 am but quickly (15 minutes only) turned back because Studer very bad cough (no oxygen) so down to ABC same day.


expid: EVER99107
peakid: EVER
year: 1999
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Stephane Schaffter
sponsor: Geneva Everest 99
countries: France, UK
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 1999-04-16
smtdate: 1999-05-17
termdate: 1999-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 8500m due to not good conditions for alpine-style climb
campsites: BC(16/04,5200m),ABC(21/04,6400m),C1(02/05,7000m),C2(16/05,7600m),xxx(17/05,8500m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at Rongbuk BC
  ABC at normal spot
  C1  at North Col camp (only Haston and wife slept there a few times)
  C2  no one slept there, tent used
  High point at 1st Step.

  On 16th May Arvis and Perler left ABC at 6:00 am NST and went to 7600m to make a camp on the same day. Hiroz, Roduit, Schaffter and Joos left ABC at 12:00. Also on the 16th May Buisson and Delale left ABC at 2:00 pm NST. Arvis and Perler left with 1 Sherpa and reached 7600m but did not go higher; they turned at 6:00 am NST; they just went up there to put up a tent. Arvis and Perler both used oxygen from the top of snow ridge (7300m). Hiroz went to 8000m and turned at 3:00 pm NST because she was not fast enough for alpine climb, too slow. Roduit went to 8500m alone and turned back at 4:00 am NST. He felt he was not strong enough to summit and come back alive. Schaffter turned back at 7500m at 10:00 pm NST. He also felt he was not fast enough for a 1-day push to the summit and back he does not like to sleep at camps. Joos turned back at 8000m for the same reason as Schaffter.

  Steve Haston and Laurence Goualt-Haston had reached the North Col and spent a few nights there on different occasions. They stayed on the mountain to climb when Schaffter, et al, left Base Camp on 24 May.

  * All climbing members on 17 May returned to ABC in the evening after the summit attempt.

  * Schaffter and Joos - felt the weather conditions for an alpine climb on 17 May were not good - it was too windy. They also felt their team was too weak to climb to the summit from ABC and was glad everyone turned back.

  * Schaffter does not like the climbing style of large commercial expeditions. He did not like being around large expeditions while trying to climb Everest alpine-style (going from ABC to the summit without sleeping at camps).

  * (Dave Hahn/Eric Simonson): The American Expedition felt that Schaffter's team were too inexperienced to attempt the North Ridge of Everest in alpine-style; in the event of an accident Schaffter's team would end up using oxygen, tents and Sherpas from other teams.

  Haston - 30 May 1999 (by phone): Haston made no further attempt for summit - only went up to clear tents at 7600m (on 25 May) at 7000m.


expid: EVER99108
peakid: EVER
year: 1999
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Gheorghe Dijmarescu
ascent1: 326
bcdate: 1999-04-11
smtdate: 1999-05-26
smttime: 1010
termdate: 1999-05-29
campsites: BC(11/04),ABC(16/04,6400m),C1(18/04,7000m),C2(24/04,7800m),C3(04/05,8300m),Smt(26/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Apa climbed with Gheorghe all the time; not very strong, not very weak climber, needed fixed ropes which Nanda Dorje and Apa fixed for him on 2nd Step and final snow slope. Apa and Gheorghe left C3 at 1:00 am 26 May together but Apa went ahead to fix ropes. Apa on top 10:10 am and Gheorghe about 10:30 am and down together to C3 at 3:30 pm and slept there. 27th ABC.

  Apa Sherpa - This is his 10th ascent of Everest.


expid: EVER99109
peakid: EVER
year: 1999
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Fred Barth
sponsor: Independent climber
ascent1: 325
bcdate: 1999-04-11
smtdate: 1999-05-26
smttime: 1000
termdate: 1999-05-29
campsites: BC(11/04),ABC(16/04,6400m),C1(23/04,7050m),C2(24/05,7800m),C3(25/05,8300m),Smt(26/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col.

  Barth left C3 1:00 am with Nanda Dorje and Barth slightly later, summitted and returned to C3 3:00 pm, struck camp and slept in C2 and ABC on 27th and left it 28th. Big difference using oxygen; could have summited without it in perfect conditions only.

  Nanda Dorje Sherpa, Khumjung, summited Cho Oyu twice but this is 1st Everest summit.


expid: EVER99110
peakid: EVER
year: 1999
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Fabrizio Zangrilli
sponsor: Independent climber
bcdate: 1999-04-11
smtdate: 1999-05-07
termdate: 1999-05-30
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to poor health
campsites: BC(11/04),ABC(16/04,6400m),C1(23/04,7000m),C2(30/04,7800m),xxx(07/05,8300m)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  C1 at North Col.

  Reached C3 site 7 May but didn't "feel right" to go higher and down same day to ABC. Then immediately up to help with rescue of Ukrainians at North Col and again to ABC. Again to North Col on 13th, 14th to C2 and again down because snowfall to ABC on 15th. Went towards North Col to help Joao Garcia descend. 24th up to Col, but very slow with chest infection, 25th stayed at North Col, 26th to C2, vomited few times from coughing with stomach contractions and down to ABC. BC on 29th.


expid: EVER99111
peakid: EVER
year: 1999
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Eric Simonson
sponsor: 1999 American Chomolongma Expedition
ascent1: 320
countries: Germany, UK
bcdate: 1999-03-29
smtdate: 1999-05-17
smttime: 1450
termdate: 1999-05-22
accidents: Hoyland mini-stroke; Firstbrook not acclimatized and weak
achievment: Discovery of Mallory's body on 1 May
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
campsites:
  BC(29/03,5180m),IC1(5575m),IC2(6100m),ABC(03/04,6490m),C1(17/04,7000m),C2(30/04,7800m),C3(16/05,8150m),Smt(17/05)

routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C2 slightly higher than some.

  Difficult summit attempt: 6 people, 3 nights at C2 (Anker, Hahn, Richards, Politz, Norton and Pollard) on 13, 14 and 15 May; then to C3 on 16th: Anker, Hahn, Richards and Norton slept in C3 with Dawa Nuru (Phortse) and Ang Pasang (Pangboche) who came up from North Col. 17th all 6 went to 8565m where concern about weather and speed of climb and oxygen available sent others down to C3 where Americans slept and Sherpas to ABC. Other 2 had deep snow and 5 inches new snow at 3rd Step and above which slowed progress: should have taken 2 hours from top of 2nd Step to summit but took 3-1/2 hours in knee-deep unconsolidated snow. Returned to C3 at 9:15 pm well after dark with 2 members having come up to meet them (didn't need help actually).

  Search for Mallory and Irvine took place below and to west of high camp; Mallory's body found on 30-degree slope.


expid: EVER99112
peakid: EVER
year: 1999
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Sweden
leaders: Goran Kropp
sponsor: Swedish Cleaning Expedition to Everest
ascent1: 310
bcdate: 1999-04-14
smtdate: 1999-05-05
termdate: 1999-05-10
campsites: BC(14/04),C1(16/04,6100m),C2(22/04,6500m),C3(24/04,7300m),C4(03/05,7900m),Smt(05/05)
achievment: 1st ascent by Swedish woman
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in West Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Planned to go on summit bid 4 May but winds too strong and waited one day. Left Col on 4th at 10:00+ pm: Hillberg, Chlumska and Kropp and 3 Sherpas. At 8500m Hillberg turned back because of trouble with fast oxygen flow set too low and Sherpas went ahead of him (to summit). Ang Chhiri got to top 12:05 pm, Sherpas and Chlumska at 12:15 pm and Kropp just behind her. Chlumska wanted to summit without oxygen, but used it when had to spend extra day there. All in Col camp summit night and C2 6th May and BC 7th. Total of 6 Sherpas: 3 for climb and 3 to remove empty oxygen bottles from Col.

  Summit Sherpas: 
    Mingma Tshering, Beding, Aug 1970, Everest summit 4 times before

    Kami Sherpa, Kerung, atop Everest on Breashears expedition 5/97
      says he's 34, passport says born 1962

    Ang Chhiri, Beding, 1/10/58, this his first Everest summit,
      claims Cho Oyu Spr 1990 with US team and Xixabangma Aut 1984 with 
      British (Lo Mick)


expid: EVER99113
peakid: EVER
year: 1999
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Ireland
leaders: David Hamilton
sponsor: Himalayan Kingdoms Everest Expedition 1999
ascent1: 315
countries: Guatemala, UK, USA
bcdate: 1999-04-04
smtdate: 1999-05-12
smttime: 0905
termdate: 1999-05-16
campsites: BC(04/04,5350m),C1(10/04,6100m),C2(15/04,6500m),C3(24/04,7250m),C4(11/05,7900m),Smt(12/05)
accidents: Dunne stomach trouble, Flynn slight frostbite
achievment: Ogwyn youngest American to summit
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking/Arun Treks
routememo:
  On 11th at 9:45 pm Ogwyn and Hamilton and 2 Sherpas left Col for summit. Hamilton turned back at 8700m with oxygen problem and had had enough. Ogwyn and 2 Sherpas went on up while Hamilton waited for them at Balcony for one hour. Benegas and Ogwyn climbed together for 5 hours and Benegas to top just before Ogwyn. Returned to col about 1:00 pm. Ogwyn found climb not really difficult, but Sherpas wanted to turn around 200m or so above Col where fresh deep snow had buried fixed ropes; this snow slowed progress. 

  Flynn to South Col with Hamilton and Ogwyn but got frostbitten fingers above C3 and at Col, where realized this decided not to go for top but to descend. 

  Vinals found Icefall ladder crossings frightening and collapse of Icefall serac unnerving so never reached C1 and left in mid-April.

  [Expedition did not have permit of its own: Hamilton and Ogwyn were on Kropp's permit; Dunne, Flynn and Vinals on Henry Todd's permit].


expid: EVER99114
peakid: EVER
year: 1999
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Sweden
leaders: Thomas Sjogren, Tina Sjogren
sponsor: Everest Internet Experiment Expedition 1999
ascent1: 312,324
countries: Argentina
bcdate: 1999-03-22
smtdate: 1999-05-06
smttime: 1100
termdate: 1999-05-31
campsites: BC(22/03,5350m),C1(07/04,6100m),C2(09/04,6400m),C3(04/05,7300m),C4(05/05,7900m),Smt(06,26/05)
achievment: Babu Chiri longest stay on summit
agency: Nomad Expeditions
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in West Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  5th May arrived at South Col and left 9:30 pm with Strynoe and 6 Sherpas including Babu Chiri; reached balcony at 7:00 am 6th in 50-knot wind and snowfall (except Strynoe). Pushed to 8600m in 1 hour and decided weather too bad, 1 Sherpa had turned back at 8500m, too dangerous; tried to convince Babu Chiri to turn back too but 2 other Sherpas agreed to go up with him (Babu there first) and they got to top, where 2 Sherpas helped Babu make platform for his tent and left him after 1 hour. Every hour throughout night from 9:00 pm Sjogrens monitored him. Dawa and Nima Dorje started down from top at noon but got stuck at South Summit in whiteout and biv there at returned to Col about 8:00 pm after weather cleared. Babu stayed on top 21-1/2 hours; planned to go down after 20 hours but interviews by LO's and Sherpas took an hour and then packed up small stove belonging to Sjogren and tent (left mattress). Did not have oxygen with him at all and never used it on this expedition. All down to C2 together on 7th and BC on 8th. Sjogren very tired and down to Deboche 10 May to rest - back to BC on 18th; to Col 25th and left 9:45 pm for top was 2 Swedes with 5 Sherpas; 2 Mexicans and 3 Sherpas; 1 Dawa (Strynoe) with no Sherpas. Strynoe turned back sick (flu). Sjogrens to top 9:18 am on 26th with 4 Sherpas and slept at South Col to sleep - 27th to C2, BC 28th 

  Henry Todd threatened to close icefall but agreed to keep it maintained but did not do so. Babu fell off ladder broke from morning and bruised ribs on 23rd in ascent but kept climbing.

  Heinrich accidently caused gas cylinder to explode in BC kitchen tent; Heinrich's hand slightly burned and Dawa Sherpa's pierced by glass splinters and he left on 5 April. Sherpas were upset by this accident though no one seriously hurt and it was agreed Heinrich should leave.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Babu Chiri, Everest 7 times before - from Taksindu
    Nima Dorje, Makalu VDC, 31 years - Everest once before 5/98
    Dawa, Taksindu, Everest twice before, Babu Chiri's brother
    Dawa Temba, Thamo, Everest 3 times before


  Nepali Sherpa eyes new record on Everest

  Kathmandu, June 4 (Reuters) - A Nepali Sherpa who spent over 21 hours on top of Mount Everest in May said on Friday that he wanted to set a speed record on the world's highest mountain.
     Babu Chiri Sherpa said after a total of nine ascents and more than 21 hours stay without the bottled oxygen at one stretch on top of the 8848 metre Everest summit he wanted to the fastest climber of the peak.
     "If I get a sponsor I can achieve this," the 33-year-old climber from Taksindu village in Solukhumbu district where Everest is located said after returning to KTM from his latest climb.
     The current speed record on Everest is held by Kazi Sherpa also of Solukhumbu district who climbed the peak in 20 hours 24 minutes after starting from the base camp at 5350 metres (17,552 ft) in October last year.
     Babu Chiri, climbed the giant peak twice in May becoming the only third human to ever scale the mountain nine times or more.
     He climbed the highest mountain in the world on May 6 and spent 21 hours in the longest ever stay by any human being without the use of articial oxygen.
     "The midnight with bitter cold and snow was hard," he said.
     The longest time climbers have spent atop Everest has not been recorded but mountaineering experts say only a few spent a couple of hours.
     Three weeks later on May 26 Babu Chiri accompanied Swedes, Thomas Sjogren and Tina Sjogren, on the first ascent by a Swedish couple and ninth by the Sherpa.
     Two other Nepalis -- Ang Rita Sherpa and Appa Sherpa -- have climbed Everest ten times each.
     More than 800 people from across the world have climbed Everest. Over 160 have died.


expid: EVER99115
peakid: EVER
year: 1999
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Henry Todd
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Everest 1999
ascent1: 309,318
countries: Mexico, New Zealand, USA
bcdate: 1999-03-29
smtdate: 1999-05-05
termdate: 1999-05-21
campsites: BC(29/03,5350m),C1(10/04,6000m),C2(12/04,6350m),C3(25/04,7300m),C4(30/04,7900m),Smt(05,13/05)
achievment: 1st Latin American woman on summit; 1st Brit to scale Everest from both South & North
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 at South Col.

  3rd summit attempt by Todd and Mellor, Ang Tshering (for 2nd ascent this month), Nima and Pemba Nuru (all from Pangboche); were at C4 17 May but never above Col on 18th because of wind and new snowfall and not strong enough by this time. 

  2nd bid by Trueman and Pasang Dawa; left Col together night of 12th-13th and on top about 9:30 am (Trueman asked that no one talk about his climb); Lapkass spoke only when told about Tourism Ministry's press release.

  Medina said on 30 May: She stepped "just one foot too far" to right and fell through cornice over East Face; fell 5-10m unroped to snow ledge - was between S Summit and Hillary Step - just one scratch. 

  Summit Sherpas:
    Ang Tshering (aka Pasang Tshering), 23, Pangboche, Everest 26/5/98
    Pasang Dawa, 23, Pangboche, Everest X1 before
                                 
  Ratcliffe went through Icefall only twice and was first to go to BC, C2, C3 and C4. At C4 on 30th night, 1 May to C2, 2 May to C3 with Avila, Broom, Medina; Lapkass arrived 3rd straight from C2 to C4 with Sherpas. 3rd night windy and soon 4th other team members down from Col but this party plus Athans and Kropp parties stayed at Col on 4/5 May and at 8:00 pm wind died and went to top instead. Left C4 10:00-10:30 pm on 4th and found fresh snow from 8200m to S Summit got to S Summit at 10:00 am and found others tending to Medina who had slipped between S Summit and Hillary Step which was not fully roped and she descended from there, shaken by her narrow escape from long fall down SW Face. Ratcliffe down to Col at 3:30-4:00 pm with Medina from Balcony; he ran out of oxygen at S Summit in descent and received party used bottle from a Sherpa and reached his own extra bottle at the Balcony; were first back to Col from Todd's teams. Same Sherpas up to find out why Lapkass was late; he came back very tired. Medina and Ang Tshering had taken off dark glasses/goggle and developed snowblindness. Ratcliffe frostbitten fingers and toes but he hopes they will heal. Mellor dental abcess which required him to go down from C2 to Namche Dental Clinic for extraction of 4 teeth; went back to mountain.

  Elsa Avila climbed with Laurie Medina much of the time. On summit day left South Col together but Elsa "really motivated" and on oxygen it's really different" (started using oxygen at col) and moved fast and from Balcony to S Summit was behind only Athans and Crouse. On top Athans, 2-3 Sherpas, Ratcliffe, Avila, Crouse and Brown and then doesn't know order. Best part of climb was the real climb (not walking) up Hillary Step, which she had not reached in 1989 spring attempt.


expid: EVER99116
peakid: EVER
year: 1999
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Samdrup
sponsor: China-Tibet Expedition to 14 Mountains of 8000m
ascent1: 332
smtdate: 1999-05-28
smttime: 0545
campsites: ABC(6500m),C1(7000m),C2(7800m),C3(8300m),Smt(28/05)
achievment: 1st Chinese couple to summit (Ren Na and Gigi)
agency: None
routememo:
  On 28 May 10 workers to top. Started for summit at 3:15 am Chinese time and on top at 8:00 am (5:45 NST) (there had been a summit attempt on 27 May). Some summiters descended to 7800-7790m camp and others to 7028-7000m camp.


expid: EVER99117
peakid: EVER
year: 1999
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Anna Czerwinska
bcdate: 1999-04-11
smtdate: 1999-05-25
termdate: 1999-05-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7850m due to oxygen mask failure and lack of time
campsites: BC(11/04),ABC(16/04,6400m),C1(22/04,7000m),C2(24/05,7800m),xxx(25/05,7850m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  High point at North Face.

  Plan for Georgians, Barth and Anna to go to C2 on 24th, C3 at 8300m on 28th and top on 26th. Anna had to turn back at 7850m on 25th because her test of oxygen system proved oxygen mask did not fit properly and therefore could not see. So climb finished because others had gone to top, yaks coming to ABC evening 28th and no kitchen to be available. This first time Anna used oxygen and did not know well about mask fitting over her glasses (could bring contact lenses). "I am so angry" - "I'm so ashamed." Will come again to Everest next spring from south side because unlucky on north side on 3rd attempt this way and "bored" with north side.


expid: EVER99118
peakid: EVER
year: 1999
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Jonathan Tinker, Nikola Kekus
sponsor: OTT (Out There Trekking) Everest Expedition
ascent1: 314,317
countries: Canada, Netherlands, Peru, Spain, Switzerland, USA
bcdate: 1999-04-05
smtdate: 1999-05-12
smttime: 0830
termdate: 1999-05-16
campsites: BC(05/04,5350m),C1(10/04,6100m),C2(17/04,6500m),C3(20/04,7100m),C4(03/05,7900m),Smt(12-13/05)
achievment: 1st Latin American to top twice; 1st Dutchman
agency: Nepal Myths & Mountain Trails
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face (lower than most)
  C4 at South Col.

  1st summit bid was made by Benegas, Guallart-Furio and Ang Dorje and 2 other Sherpas at 9:30 pm 11th. Guallart turned back at 8300m and 2 Sherpas (cold feet); 1 Sherpa had already gone back; Guallart said went down to help Sherpas but really not strong enough. Benegas continued alone and on top 8:30 am 12th and slept in C2 that night (11:00 am at South Col).

  12th up to C4: C. Brown, D. Brown, Rodney, Niarchos, Matthews, Smith, Doyle, Ortega, Staartjes, Kekus and 10 Sherpas; all except 1 Sherpa left for top 10:30-11:35 pm on 12th; all reached South Summit (with O2). D. Brown (without O2) and Kekus stopped at base of Hillary Step (tired, oxygen problem) and all others to top 9:30 to 12:30 pm and all slept in C4 except Matthews who disappeared during descent somewhere above 8300m. C4 people went down to C2 in strong winds and spindrift and climb finished really; Mike Smith called expedition off on 14 May.

  Smith on 17 May: Smith and Matthews summited same time. Matthews last seen below South Summit but above "balcony." Storm came up suddenly with high wind blowing spindrift snow. Smith was ahead of Matthews, stopped at balcony to wait for him and waited "a long time," then went down to Col alone for his own safety. Matthews was tired, moving slowly, but seemed "fine." Matthews not seen again. Weather was bad on 14th also and no attempt to search for him. Matthews believed to be youngest Briton to summit Everest.

  * Regarding summiters: They did not include Guallart-Furio, who has told a newspaper that he reached top on 12 May. According to Benegas on 21 May by telephone, he reached 8300m only. He was client of Benegas and they headed for summit together, but he was weak and slow climber, needed 4 Sherpas to carry his oxygen, but Sherpas found him too slow and their feet getting cold, so they refused to continue up with him. He got to 8300m only; while Benegas went to top alone, Guallart-Furio went down with Sherpas. On 27 May C and D Brown and Rodney agreed with Benegas. On 30 May, Kekus said Guallart-Furio told him he was forced to turn back with Sherpas because they were going down; Kekus had the impression he did not have enough confidence to go on up without them.

  Spanish newspaperman by telephone from Valancia - 31 May: Guallart received hero's welcome on return home; same man 2 June asked if it was absolutely definite that Enrique's was on OTT expedition.

  Rodriguez and Guevara, Mexican Everest team - 3 June: Enrique did not reach summit. 2 Mexicans reached "the balcony" where he was. Mexicans went down from there and Enrique reached C4 also too soon for him to have gone to top and back.

  Contstantine Niarchos died soon after return to London but not from his climb. He died at his Mayfair flat in London on May 31 due to massive cocaine overdose.

  1   Lakpa Gelu, 32, Ruptsa near Kharikhola, Everest X5 times below
  2.  Tshering Dorje, 28, Kharikhola, Everest once before
  3.  Dawa Nurbu (Danuru), 22, Kharikhola, this his first 8000m summit
  4.  Pemba Rinzl, 22, Kharikhola, Everest once before
  5.  Kami Rita, 29, Thami, Everest X3 before
  6.  Nima Gyalzen, 23, Beding, Everest once before
  7.  Pasang Kitar, 20, Beding, Everest once before (19/5/98)

accidents:
  Smith toes both feet frostbitten but will heal; Everett avalanches; Tinker altitude; Matthews disappeared (fell?)


expid: EVER99119
peakid: EVER
year: 1999
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Peter Athans
sponsor: American Millenium Expedition
ascent1: 308
countries: UK
bcdate: 1999-04-04
smtdate: 1999-05-05
othersmts: Climbed Nuptse (NUPT-991-01)
campsites: BC(04/04,5350m),C1(08/04,6100m),C2(13/04,6350m),C3(21/04,7300m),C4(03/05,7900m),Smt(05/05)
accidents: Gyalzen slightly snowblinded
agency: Above the Clouds
routememo:
  4th May at 10:30-11:00 summit party set out for top: Athans, Crouse, Rhoads, Ervin-Rhoads, Nima Tashi, Chuwang Nima, Gyaltzen Dorje and Phu Tashi. At S Summit Rhoads and wife turned back at 11:00 am and Nima Tashi back from below Balcony earlier. Back at Col 4:00 pm and later and slept there. 

  Next summit bid from Col at 10:20 pm of 17th: Corfield, Chuwang Nima (who had gone to BC and perhaps Thamo after 5 May), Nima Tashi, Dawa Sona and reached top 18th at 1:00 pm and slept at Col, where returned about 8:30 pm.

  No attempt on Lhotse: strength depleted: 2 Sherpas gone home, Everest took time, Nuptse climbed. GPS work: put in sensors at C2, C4, Bishop rock/ledge; activated GPS on top and South Col and much other work.

  Summit Sherpas:
    Phu Tashi, Pangboche, 26, his first 8000er
    Chuwang Nima, Thami, Everest summit 5 times before
    Dorje, Thamo, Everest 6 times before
    Gyalzen, Loding, Everest 3 times before
    Na Temba, Sikli, Everest 6 times before, Cho Oyu
    Nima Tashi, Pangboche, Everest 3 times before
    Dawa Sona, Pangboche, Everest 2 times before


  EverestNews.com - 15 June 1999

  EverestNews was contacted by Jacek Maselko who summited on May 18 from the North. Maselko states that he summited at 13:30 NST and looked down the SE Ridge route to determine if anyone was coming up. He saw no tracks in ankle-deep snow leading to the summit. He said the weather was very calm and thus any tracks would not be obliterated by wind and snow. The Maselko group remained on the summit until 14:40 NST.


  Todd Burleson - 11 Oct 2001

  Sherpas told Burleson that Corfield did not summit Everest. He got to top of Hillary Step and 200m linearly above and then so exhausted had to turn back. Sherpas definite that he stopped and Sherpas turned around with him.


  Willi Prittie - 6 Jun 2002

  One of the Sherpas with Corfield on his summit attempt told Prittie on 5th June that Corfield and all three Sherpas with him did not go to the summit. Chuwang Nima Sherpa told Prittie that they had gotten "just above the Hillary Step" when Corfield became exhausted and all four men (Corfield, Chuwang Nima, Nima Tashi and Dawa Sona) turned back.


expid: EVER99120
peakid: EVER
year: 1999
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Bernard Voyer
sponsor: Everest Expedition
ascent1: 311
bcdate: 1999-04-10
smtdate: 1999-05-05
termdate: 1999-05-10
campsites: BC(10/04),C1(16/04,6100m),C2(18/04,6500m),C3(25/04,7400m),C4(03/05,7900m),Smt(05/05)
accidents: Voyer slightly snowblinded on return to S Col
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Planned to go for top on 3rd May, but strong wind so waited another day. Voyer and 2 Sherpas left C4 at 10:15 pm on 4th in group of summiters and was on balcony when sun rose. On top at 12:10 pm. Waited at S Summit 45 minutes for rope to be fixed for all to go up. Back in C4 6:00 pm.

  Sherpas: 
    Dorje, Nunthala, Everest X3
    Chhongba Nurbu Sherpa, Tate, Solukhumbu, 1st 8000er (28 yrs?)


expid: EVER99121
peakid: EVER
year: 1999
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Heidi Howkins
sponsor: National Geographic Everest Expedition
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 1999-04-10
smtdate: 1999-05-12
termdate: 1999-05-31
termnote: Abandoned at 7850m due to fatique and flu
campsites: BC(10/04),C1(15/04,6100m),C2(27/04,6450m),C3(07/05,7300m),xxx(12/05,7850m)
accidents: Howkins and Model flu
agency: Sea to Summit Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  High point at South Col (just below it).

  Inaki Ochoa was paid $800 of what was due him by National Geographic (paid into his Spanish bank) and paid by Howkins from her personal funds - parted company at Thyangboche in argument; he owes money to NG and maybe lawsuit. Highest point was 7900m leaving gear at Col on 12 May and down to BC. Now couldn't work summit bid without cameraman and Todd agreed for Lapkass and a Sherpa to be the man. Todd radioed from C2 don't come up because no oxygen available for Lapkass and a Sherpa to go up; very complicated ill-will between Todd and Sjogrens and others which got involved here. Planned to go up with Sjogrens, et al, on 26th but Howkins got bad flu on 22nd and stayed in BC (up only to clear loads 26th from C2). Model up on 20th to C2 but got flu also and down from there on 23 May. Howkins probably could have gone up 15-16 May and gone to top with Corfield but no filming could be arranged and commitment to National Geographic required filming so didn't try. On 26th also would have had no filming but was end of season and was tempted to go up for herself even without film record.

  Sjogrens - 4 June: part of Ochoa-Howkins problem was he brought along a girl friend and Model was Howkin's boy friend.


expid: EVER99122
peakid: EVER
year: 1999
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Katsuyuki Fukuzawa
smtdate: 1999-04-17
termnote: Abandoned due to altitude sickness
campsites: BC,ABC(17/04,6400m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Fukuzawa developed serious altitude sickness and never went above ABC. Returned to KTM on 24 April and left for Bangkok 27 April for hospitalization; worried about much loss of blood. His Sherpa Chiring Dorje stayed on Everest with Georgian expedition whose permit Fukuzawa was on.

  Georgian Everest expedition members - 31 May: 

  Fukuzawa slept in ABC, developed altitude sickness about 17-18 April, went down to BC and left the mountain.


expid: EVER99123
peakid: EVER
year: 1999
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Denmark
leaders: Michael Strynoe
sponsor: Independent party to Everest
bcdate: 1999-03-10
smtdate: 1999-05-06
termdate: 1999-05-30
termnote: Abandoned at 8400m due to sickness
campsites: BC(10/03,5350m),C2(05/04,6400m),C3(26/04,7400m),C4(05/05,7900m),xxx(06/05,8400m)
agency: Highlander Trekking
routememo:
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col
  High point below the Balcony.

  5th May at 9:00 pm started up for top with Sjogrens, but stopped at about 8400m about 3:00 am on 6th May because windy and tired and down to C2 to sleep. 

  Again to South Col 25th May and up from Col for top again at 8:00 pm before Swedes and Mexicans. At about 8200m because bad case of flu had quickly developed and continued to get worse in descent. Went to C4 and got oxygen from Sjogrens tent and used it rest of night of 25/26 May. 26th May morning without oxygen to C2; BC 27 May.


expid: EVER99124
peakid: EVER
year: 1999
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Inaki Ochoa
sponsor: Independent climber on Everest & Lhotse
bcdate: 1999-04-08
smtdate: 1999-05-12
termdate: 1999-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 8650m due to becoming frostbitten
othersmts: Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-991-04)
campsites: BC(08/04),C2(15/04,6500m),C4(30/04,8100m),xxx(12/05,8650m)
accidents: 3 toes frostbitten but will heal; temporarily strained stomach muscle
agency: Sea to Summit Trekking
routememo:
  Inaki Ochoa went to C4 with Ratcliffe of Todd expedition but wind drove Inaki down to BC, where he arrived 2 May. Coughed so hard pulled muscle in stomach and had to rest a week so missed good weather of 5th. Left S Col on 11th at 10:00 pm for top - at midnight violent wind and very cold local storm and without oxygen by 3:00 am 12th he was freezing and stopped at 4:30 am at 8650m realizing would have serious frostbite. S Col at 5:30 am; 6:00 am storm stopped but he started down 8:00 am and to C2 at noon and BC on 13th. Todd had invited Inaki to use his tents and food to help Graham Ratcliffe, Todd's client. Later Ratcliffe went off without Inaki when Inaki had strained stomach muscle.


expid: EVER99125
peakid: EVER
year: 1999
route1: E Face-S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Santosh Yadav
sponsor: Millenium Indian Everest Expedition 1999
ascent1: 333
approach: KTM->Tingri->Kharta
bcdate: 1999-04-14
smtdate: 1999-05-22
smttime: 0700
termdate: 1999-06-04
campsites: BC(14/04,5550m),C1(25/04,6450m),C2(06/05,7450m),C3(27/05,7900m),Smt(28/05)
accidents: Loveraj hit by falling stone at about 5000m, eyes hit - was evacuated to Delhi
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at glacier at bottom of face
  C1 on East Face (ice and rock mixed area)
  C2 on East Face (deep snow area)
  C3 at South Col.

  27 May C3 occupied by 7 members. 4 Sherpas carried loads to C3 but returned to C1 because C2's 4 tents swept away or buried by ice avalanche on morning of 27th after it was emptied by climbers going up to Col. If had left later, 11 people would have died. 3 left C3 for top on 28 May at 12:30-12:45 am and reached top at 7:00 am NST: Amar Prakash, Kusang Dorje and Sange. Other 4 at C3 did not leave camp because 3 oxygen masks were not working. Summiters returned to C3 10:30 am and all left C3 11:30 am and went all way to C1 taking 3 hours to cross area above C2 which normally took 15-20 minutes. Returned to C1 at 8:30 pm (dark but had head lamps). All 7 members could have reached summit if had been able to use oxygen, but of 7 masks, 3 didn't work and 1 kept at Col for emergency.

  Kusang Dorje and Sange are 1st people to reach summit from North, South and East.

  Yadav and Dhami are 1st women to reach S Col from East Face.


expid: EVER99126
peakid: EVER
year: 1999
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Mexico
leaders: Ivan Loredo
sponsor: Latin American Expedition to Everest
ascent1: 331,334
countries: Argentina, Ecuador, Finland
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 1999-04-15
smtdate: 1999-05-27
smttime: 1225
termdate: 1999-06-02
campsites: BC(15/04,5100m),ABC(18/04,6400m),C1(22/04,7000m),C2(27/04,7700m),C3(27/05,8300m),Smt(27-28/05)
achievment: Maniken 1st Finnish from North to top
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  C1 at North Col.

  27 May 1st summit attempt by Wheelock, Orono, Vallejo and Fura Dorje: 2 Latin men at 1:00 and Wheelock and Sherpa 1:20-1:30 am. Reached top at 12:25 pm. Wheelock and Fura Dorje slept in C3 where arrived 7:00 pm; Orono on C3 6:00 pm and stayed there. Vallejo went to C2 where arrived 6:00 pm. 

  28 May 2 Finns left C4 about 7:00 am and on top about 8:00 am and down to C2 at about 3:00-4:00 pm

  Fura Dorje, 32, Sotang, Solukhumbu, Everest X2 times before

  This party climbed separately from Russians and Bulgarian, Russell Brice confirmed 9 June 99.


  Note:  Russian and Bulgarian leadership of International Everest: 

  Expedition insisted this party and four-member Russian-Bulgarian party were all one expedition who ate and climbed together, but they could not say when the Latins reached C1 and C2. The Latins insisted that they never climbed with Russians and Bulgarian; they had their own tents, food and Sherpas. One Finn, Mankinen, was supposed to climb with Russians and Bulgarian but actually climbed with the Latins.


expid: EVER99127
peakid: EVER
year: 1999
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Everest Expedition 1999
ascent1: 330
countries: Australia, Germany, Japan
bcdate: 1999-04-09
smtdate: 1999-05-27
smttime: 0645
termdate: 1999-06-03
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(09/04,5200m),Interm(09/04,5200m),ABC(15/04,6400m),C1(21/04,7000m),C2(04/05,7500m),C3(05/05,7900m),C4(26/05,8300m),Smt(27/05)

routememo:
  C1 at North Col.

  27 May summit party left C4 at 1:30 am NST: Robb, Karsang, Hengge, Lobsang Temba, Kozuka, Phurba Tashi and reached top: Robb and Karsang at 6:45 am: Hengge and Lobsang 7:15-7:30 am, Kozuka and Phurba Tashi at 8:30 am. Robb and Karsang down to C1 (7:00 pm and 5:00 pm respectively); Hengge to C2 at 4:30-5:00 pm; Kozuka and Phurba down to C4 6:30-7:00 pm (used 13 bottles of oxygen from C1 to top to ABC). Kozuka slow in descent because "my legs don't work." All in ABC 28 May. Had waited in ABC for 15 days for favorable weather forecast.

  Summit Sherpas:
    Karsang (Ang Rita's son), from Thami, Everest twice before
    Lobsang Temba, Khumjung, 30, Everest once before
    Phurba Tashi, Khumjung, 28, 1st time atop Everest, but Cho Oyu in '98


expid: EVER99128
peakid: EVER
year: 1999
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Georgia
leaders: Benedict Kashakashvili
sponsor: Caucasus 1999 Everest Expedition
ascent1: 316
countries: Azerbaijan
bcdate: 1999-04-03
smtdate: 1999-05-12
smttime: 1000
termdate: 1999-05-18
campsites: BC(03/04,5350m),C1(08/04,6100m),C2(09/04,6400m),C3(22/04,7500m),C4(11/05,7900m),Smt(12/05)
accidents: Mursagulow developed recurrence of liver trouble; Sarkisov & Chewang snowblind
achievment: Sarkisov is the oldest Everest summiter to date
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  11th May at 10:00 pm up from Col for top: Sarkisov, Grigani, Gujabidze and Kashakashvili, Chewang Dorje and Nawang Tenzing. 30-40 climbers set out from Col together, Sarkisov first. All returned to South Col, first party at 3:00 pm and other 4:00 pm (leader and 2 Sherpas). All Ok till next day Gujabidze, Sarkisov and Chewang snowblind in C4 and led down to C2 and sleep in C2 "immediately." Sarkisov not exhausted at all: return to South Col in "good condition." This expedition's summiters on top at 10:00 & 10:30 am: Sarkisov, Gigani and Chewang Dorje at 10:00 am, Nawang Tenzing, Gujabidze and Kashakashvili at 10:30 am.

  Sherpa summiters:  
    Chewang Dorje, Thami, son of Ang Rita, only Cho Oyu before
    Nawang Tenzing, Phortse, 38 years old - this is first 8000er


expid: EVER99129
peakid: EVER
year: 1999
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Ken Noguchi
sponsor: Independent climber
ascent1: 319
bcdate: 1999-04-11
smtdate: 1999-05-13
smttime: 0930
termdate: 1999-05-19
campsites: BC(11/04),C1(20/04,6000m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(11/05,7300m),C4(12/05,7900m),Smt(13/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Left C4 9:40 am 12th and 12 hours later on summit, climbing with 4 Nepalese; about same time as OTT summiters and before others at 9:30 am on top. Returned to Col 2:30 pm to sleep. 15th in BC. Very good weather on climb and on top but cloud and wind developing about 10:00 am.

  Nepalese Summiters:
    Dawa Tshering, Thami, 32, Everest 4 times before
    Krishna Bahadur Tamang, 1968, Kanku, Solu, 1st 8000er
    Nima Wangchu, Khumjung, Everest once before (Spr 1998)
    Nawang Wangchu, Chaurikharka, 1973, Dhaulagiri 1994, never Everest


expid: EVER99130
peakid: EVER
year: 1999
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Georgia
leaders: Gia Tortladze
sponsor: First Georgian Expedition
ascent1: 328
bcdate: 1999-04-11
smtdate: 1999-05-26
smttime: 1100
termdate: 1999-05-29
campsites: BC(11/04,5000m),ABC(16/04,6400m),C1(18/04,7050m),C2(24/05,7700m),C3(25/05,8300m),Smt(26/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col.

  3 times in North Col: 1st time to Col, 2nd 7400m and down, 3rd time to 7500m and each time then to BC for rest. 23rd May from ABC to C1, 24th to C2 and 25th to C3. 26th to summit and back to C3. 26th 1:30 am NST up for top Tortladze, Ugulava, Tsikhiseli, Chantladze and Khabazi, Man Bahadur Tamang, Nanda Dorje (with Barth). Arrived top 11:00 am to 11:40 am and back to C3 5:00 pm. 27th to ABC, 28th BC.

  * Man Bahadur Tamang, aka Gopal, 1958, Everest X2

  * Other expeditions say Tortladze and Nemsitsveridze did not reach summit - Tortladze 31 May told me they went to top of snow pyramid just before last point on mountain and at same altitude; on 5 June he explained by phone they stopped 30m before prayer flags to take photos for sponsors but this same altitude as summit flags. 

  Russell Brice - 9 June: top of snow pyramid leads to gentle ridge into small hollow, then up again to another small indentation and again up - at least 40m difference in altitude and about 30 minutes climb/walk. Some Sherpas said Tortladze did not get to top of pyramid.

  Cathy O'Dowd, South African - 6 June: Tortladze's claim that last 30m line only one at same altitude as summit not correct - a snow slope with perhaps 30m vertical gain to highest point.

  26 May 2000 - Russian Everest expedition on north side this spring at sometime as Tortladze again there, said he told them he had not summited in 1999 was busy taking pictures.


expid: EVER99131
peakid: EVER
year: 1999
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Ryszard Pawlowski
sponsor: Polish International Everest Expedition
ascent1: 321
countries: Japan, UK, USA
bcdate: 1999-04-13
smtdate: 1999-05-18
smttime: 1330
termdate: 1999-05-23
campsites: BC(13/04),ABC(17/04,6400m),C1(23/04,7000m),C2(02/05,7700m),C3(17/05,8260m),Smt(18/05)
achievment: Pawlowski slight frostbite
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col.

  Maselko, Pawlowski and Kudelski: left C3 3:00 am NST for top and reached ridge quickly, very warm and no wind and excellent visability at 8:30 am 8500m at bottom of First Step. No real stops for rest - got to summit through deep snow above 3nd Step at 8700m. Arrived at top: Kudelski at 1:30 pm, Maselko 1:35, Pawlowski 2:00 pm. Met Brits and Portuguese on their way up as Poles descended after leaving summit at 2:45 pm. Maselko got to C3 at 8:00 pm. Pawlowski: at 7:00 pm from below First Step, an hour after wind had blown up, saying needed more oxygen and Sherpas to help him down as soon as possible, but Sherpas had gone down to C2 and couldn't find fixed lines despite climb from C2 from 8:00 pm to midnight, when arrived at C3 in raging storm. Sherpas reached Pawlowski at 9:30 am in his descent which resumed at 9:00 am 19 May. Pawlowski slept in C3 on 19th. 

  Kudelski fell?: never seen again but probably between 2nd and 1st Steps; seen rapelling down 2nd Step 4:00-5:00 pm on 18th by Maselko. Other members in C2 or ABC.

  Russell Brice - 9 June: Pawlowski climbs only for himself and close friends with no thought or consideration for client's abilities and needs.


expid: EVER99132
peakid: EVER
year: 1999
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Arbin Timilsina
sponsor: Pokhara Sagarmatha Expedition Campaign 1999
bcdate: 1999-04-05
smtdate: 1999-05-05
termdate: 1999-05-08
termnote: Abandoned at 8748m due to lack of bottled oxygen
campsites: BC(05/04),C1(13/04,6100m),C2(19/04,6800m),C3(23/04,7390m),C4(05/05,7900m),xxx(05/05,8748m)
accidents: Arbin snowblindness after returning to South Col
achievment: Youngest person to South Summit
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 slept in on return from summit attempt
  High point at South Summit.

  Did not sleep in C4 til return from summit bid: 4th May left C3 7:30 am, with oxygen on and arrived 3:00 pm for rest. Left C4 10:00 pm with all 3 Sherpas and arrived South Summit 11:00 am and went down to bottom of Hillary Step. Spent 15 minutes at bottom of Hillary Step resting and decided to go down; 3 Sherpas were with him. Because of not enough oxygen left (had to wait for Athans party to fix ropes on route to S Summit and Arbin oxygen flow of 3 liters per minute). Developed snowblindness at S Col on return. No thought of return summit bid: "let me relax and enjoy climb" already made; definitely reached South Summit this days - route not technically difficult: Icefall not difficult but "must be very fast".

  Sherpas: 
    Ang Gyalzen, sirdar, Wong Village, Namche VDC, Everest X3 including 1998 Spr
    Ang Mingma, Yilajung, Namche VDC, Everest 1998 north side Japanese
    Phurba, Thamo, Everest to 8500m 1997

  Marcella Dunne of Himalayan Kingdoms team - 21 May: Arbin very slow but climbing on his own without escort. "I think he did a fantastic job." Never seen being pushed or pulled/short-roped.

  Graham and Ray Broom, 5 May summiters, discussed Arbin's claim to South Summit and agreed they did not see him above South Col at any time.

  Elsa Avila, summiter 5 May, saw him at "balcony during his descent."

  Other teenager who unsuccessfully attempted Everest:
    Mark Pfetzer, American, 15/1/80
    Spring 1995 (15 yrs old) reached 7300m on north side and got tired he said.
    Spring 1996 (16 yrs old) reached 7900m on south side (Henry Todd's team),
       but sent down by very strong wind, etc.


expid: EVER99133
peakid: EVER
year: 1999
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Yan Geng-Hua
sponsor: Caucasus 1999 Everest Expedition
smtdate: 1999-05-18
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to lack of competence
campsites: BC(early April),ABC(13/04,4400m),xxx(18/05,8100m)
agency: None
routememo:
  Very unskilled, often got tangled in fixed ropes; had frequent falls, but never hurt; climbed alone.


expid: EVER99134
peakid: EVER
year: 1999
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Valentin Simonenko
sponsor: First National Ukrainian Everest Expedition
ascent1: 313
bcdate: 1999-03-30
smtdate: 1999-05-08
termdate: 1999-05-13
campsites: BC(30/03),ABC(04/04,6350m),C1(07/04,7050m),C2(26/04,7200m),C3(07/05,8300m),Smt(08/05)
achievment: 1st Ukrainian citizen to summit
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  ABC same as other teams
  C1 at North Col
  C2 just off ridge
  C3 at North Face.

  All members reached at least 8300m. 8 May summit bid was expedition's first: Gorbach, Kopytko and Terzyul left C3 at 4:30 am and ascended very smoothly and on top at 3:00 pm (Kopytko and Terzyul); Gorbach was slow and topped at 4:00 pm. 1st, 2nd summiters radioed electricity in air and must go down. On summit was rubbish (boxes, etc - Babu Chhiri's?). 1st, 2nd waited at 8800m for Gorbach to come up, go to top and join them. Terzyul went down first to find old ropes under snow so they could be used, 100m below other two. Other 2 stopped on ridge at 8:00 pm, getting dark and snowing (were near First Step) and didn't find ropes and consciously passed tent they had left in ascent: Kopytko went up searching ropes and disappeared, perhaps went down with cornice over East Face. Terzyul reached last camp about 9 pm. 9 May other members went up and found Gorbach who had been searching for Kopytko. Kovalev and Leontyev searched but Kovalev faster and met Gorbach in a bad condition, frostbitten and unable to move at 3:00 pm. 3-4 members started to move Gorbach down at about 5:00 pm and reached last camp to sleep. 10th Georgian Sherpas helped in descent but came late and Gorbach carried all night to ABC which arrived 5:00 am on 10th. Georgian Sherpas helped to North Col, from Col to ABC helped by Americans and Italians and below Col Brice-organized brigade took over. Internet's reports correct except extent of frostbite. 12 May Gorbach moved to BC and left BC 13th and arrive KTM same day. Several members went up to search for Kopytko but no further attempt to climb mountain. Kopytko not found despite search of bottom of N Face as well as on face.


  Brice - 9 June 99

  There is a body that probably is Kopytko's lying 30m from the "exit crack" at 8500m where people have to stop; his legs - his head in underneath overhanging rock and he is lying in a position suggesting he went to sleep - wearing red jacket, grey trousers and oxygen mask. Expedition leader gave orders to climbers about their movements and they had to obey; he went according to a fixed program and disregarded member's information (sent to him in BC) about forecast of storm coming: he sent the summiters to the top on 8 May because that was the plan, but he had no resources to rescue his own men.

accidents:
  Gorbach serious frostbite all left fingers and all toes and nose; Simonenko heart attack at BC; Kopytko disappeared


expid: EVER99135
peakid: EVER
year: 1999
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Viatsheslav Skripko
sponsor: International Everest Expedition 1999
ascent1: 327
countries: Bulgaria
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 1999-04-16
smtdate: 1999-05-25
termdate: 1999-06-02
agency: Sea to Summit Trekking
campsites:
  BC(16/04,5100m),ABC(20/04,6400m),C1(22/04,7000m),C2A(27/04,7600m),C2B(11/05,7900m),C3A(23/05,8300m),C3B(25/05,8400m),Smt(25-26/05)

routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C3A (2 tents)
  C3B (2 tents).

  25 May Korshunov left C3A (8300m) about 3:00 am Chinese time with Zoran, and Korshunov went ahead after 10 minutes to make trail while Zoran waited for route to be made. He says he summited but no one believes it: had only 14 litre bottle with old masks and others think he reached 2nd Step top and somewhere below 3rd Step at about 8700m (he was seen coming down from 2nd Step - he describes ladder on 2nd Step). His oxygen system broken and was unable to understand it - he now lost his mind. Slept at 7800m for 4 nights total in various people's tents on way up and down and 4 nights in 8300m (was found naked in Georgian tent at 8300m when Georgians returned but hot in tent). 

  26 May 2:00 am Chinese time Louchnikov left C3B at 8400m and up with others from other expedition and on top 10:30 NST/12:45 Chinese time, 1st foreigner after Apa and other Sherpa with Gheorghe. Louchnikov descended to 7600m camp about 9:00 pm Chinese time. Louchikov to ABC on 27th and left ABC 28th to BC.

  Korshunov was very fast climber till about 8000m - stayed too many days above 8000m.


  Fabrizio Zangrilli - 1 June 99

  Korshunov (aged 63) had paid to be on this team and thus able to become oldest summiter, by agreeing to be a load carrier and was pushed up the mountain. Reached bottom of 2nd Step but went crazy at BC, where he was howling at moon and in Georgian's C3 tent was naked and defecated on sleeping bag. Went down to C2 to Brice's tent and made himself at home. Brice 9 June confirms Korshunov occupied his tent at C3. Korshunov wandered all over mountain and "for days on end no one knew where he was, but leader didn't care and made no attempt to find him."


  Brice -  3 June 2002 

  Korshunov "might well have" reached summit during the period in which he disappeared. Brice doesn't know. 


  Simone Moro, Italian climber - 30 May 02

  He (Moro) made investigation of Korshunov's summit claim and is convinced the Russian did get to the top. He bought back a S Korean flag and small Bible in German from top. He (Korshunov) carried oxygen bottle but regulator did not work, which could explain his peculiar behavior at high altitude. He was not pushed up the mountain. Moro has written an article about this.


  Korshunov (via interpreter Denis Urubko) - 30 March 04

  He did summit Everest on 25 May 99 and without oxygen and brought back from top a Ukraine flag left there in May '99 and a mini-Bible with an Australian name written in one of the front pages [an Australian summited on 22 May 99]. But Skripko said Korshunov did not summit because:
  (1) bad relations between Korushunov and Skripko - Skripko had let him go on this climb, but since he couldn't pay full fee, Skripko made him work like a Sherpa and regarded him as such.
  (2) Skripko could not accept that a man other than he himself could reach the top without oxygen while Skripko couldn't succeed with it.


  18 Jan 2005 - Korshunov's daughter came to KTM on tour and brought items he said he found on the summit: 
  (1) a tiny paper booklet titled "Minibibel" containing Biblical passages in German - inside front cover written in ink: Burtscher, Franz Karl A-6714 Nueziders, Austria. 
  (2) small stuffed toy panda 
  (3) banner of Ukrainian Mountaineering Federation.


  22 Mar 2005 - Mrs. Christiane Schupp, sister of Miss Billi Bierling, spoke by telephone with Burtscher, who said that whenever he went to the mountains, he distributed his red "Minibibels" and he remembered having met a man named Boris in the Tien Shen in Kazakhstan in 1990 and gave him a Minibibel. He was very pleased that one of his Minibibels made a way to the top of the world.


expid: EVER99136
peakid: EVER
year: 1999
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Zoran Miletic
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 1999-04-11
smtdate: 1999-05-24
termdate: 1999-05-29
termnote: Abandoned at 8550m due to weakness, fear and lack of time
campsites: BC(11/04),ABC(16/04,6400m),C1(20/04,7100m),C2(17/05,7800m),C3(19/05,8300m),xxx(05/24/05,8550m)
agency: Himalayan Waves/Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  High point at above top of First Step near Second Step.

  Had 1 Sherpa Jangbu who set up tent for Miletic at each campsite. 24 May tired to go to top but between 1st and 2nd Step. "I am afraid" because saw frozen bodies and oxygen bottles getting finished (1/3 left) and time (1:00 pm NST) and lost power in 5 days wait in C3 waiting for Jangbu to bring oxygen and food. "Dirty game" between Tortladze and Jangbu, that Jangbu does not come up. Boris of Russian team just above him - went down to C3 rest ABC 26 May, 27 May to ABC.

  Georgians described Miletic as "crazy" irrational.


expid: EVER99137
peakid: EVER
year: 1999
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Mexico
leaders: Hugo Rodriguez
sponsor: Mexico to the summit of the world 1999
ascent1: 323
bcdate: 1999-03-30
smtdate: 1999-05-26
smttime: 0912
termdate: 1999-05-30
campsites: BC(30/03,5350m),C1(10/04,6100m),C2(11/04,6400m),C3(15/04,7300m),C4(03/05,7900m),Smt(26/05)
agency: Nomad Expeditions
routememo:
  Corona and Guevara arrived BC April and Rodriguez had made C1. 3 climbing men did acclimatization climbing to C3 in one week: live at 2200m and went to volcanoes in Mexico last 3 weekends on 5500m top to sleep. Now in BC ready for summit attempt on 26 April but very windy. 1st summit bid to C4 without oxygen but weather forecast not good and down to C2; forecast from Henry Todd was wrong and many others to top on 5th. 

  On 11th May 3 members and 3 Sherpas again to C4 and 9:30 pm set out for top, but very windy and very cold and Rodriguez feeling sensitive from frostbite 2 years and they down from 8500m at 4:00 am and others 5:00 am from almost same altitude and down to C2 on 12th. 

  25 May on at C4 when few people left on mountain; 8:25-9:00 pm of 25th left for summit now only 2 members (Corona not well and strong) and 3 Sherpas. Only Sherpas, Lhakpa and Babu Chiri with Sjogrens went half hour earlier to open route; Mexicans before Sjogrens; Mexicans arrived at balcony at 2:00 am; on S Summit 7:00 am and main summit 9:12 am, 15 minutes before Sjogrens; spent 1 hour 20 minutes on top and down to C4 at 3:30-4:00 pm on 26 May to sleep. Babu Chiri helped Mexican and Swedish members a lot and all worked as a team together. 27th to C2, BC 28th.

  Summit Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Nuru, 27, Thami, 1st 8000er
    Mingma Chirri, 30, Thami, Everest 5/97 (when name given as Mingma Tshering)
    Pemba, 27, Taksindu, 1st 8000er


expid: GANG99101
peakid: GANG
year: 1999
route1: S Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Mark Scott-Nash
sponsor: 1999 Colorado Gangapurna Expedition
countries: UK
approach: Modi Khola (left hand side) (West side)
bcdate: 1999-04-15
smtdate: 1999-04-25
termdate: 1999-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to the route falling apart, crevasses opened
campsites: BC(15/04,4500m),C1(17/04,4850m),C2(21/04,5200m),C3(08/05,5700m),xxx(25/04,6000m)
accidents: Linda Keyes was hit in the head with a rock - swollen left eye
agency: Above the Clouds
routememo:
  BC beyond fork of Modi Khola
  C1 at base of South Ridge
  C2 on west face of South Ridge
  C3 on west side of South Ridge
  High point at the icefall.

  On April 25 Bricknell, Baldwin and Benitez left C2 at 5:00 am NST to find route through icefall and dropped off gear (2 tents) at 6000m. Between 25 April and 8 May the team experienced extremely hot weather that melted the glacier a lot, huge crevasses opened and the climbers could not get back to their 6000m high point. After trial and error they found a new route to put in a C3 at 5700m. The weather continued to be hot, which caused the route to melt even more; there large seracs falling, crevasse bridges melting and the rockfall hazard between C1 and C2 was extreme.

  * Anne McDavid went below C2.
  * Linda Keyes left BC 11th May to return to work at home.
  * They could not find a route above C3 because of the glacier being broken up and
    the route from C2 to C3 became very dangerous (serac fall and large crevasses).
  * Getting to BC was difficult.
    They had to lower some of their porters over at 50 ft cliff to get to the site 
    of Base Camp. This is where the Modi Khola splits into a fork.


expid: KANT98302
peakid: KANT
year: 1998
route1: NE Ridge (in Tibet)
nation: Japan
leaders: Yoshiharu Suita
sponsor: Doshisha University Alpine Society
bcdate: 1998-08-18
smtdate: 1998-09-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6350m due to avalanche
campsites: BC(18/08,5460m),C1,xxx(03/09,6350m)
accidents: 1 member's leg broken in avalanche
achievment: 1st attempt from north in Tibet
agency: None (went direct to Tibet?)
routememo:
  Peak on Nepal-Tibet border and is 6859m high. Last 400m of NE to East Ridge to top is very steep, otherwise route is very easy but exposed to dangerous avalanching. On 14 or 15 Sept [Sept 3 according to Japanese Alpine News] in summit attack 2 members were hit by avalanche and 1 member's leg broken by it. 

  Team from Doshisha University Alpine Society. Same club sent reconnaissance team to mountain in autumn 1997 and they reached 5605m on glaciers. 1998 team left KTM 7 Aug and did not return to KTM after climb.


expid: KANG99101
peakid: KANG
year: 1999
route1: SW Face-W Col-NW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Park Young-Seok
sponsor: 1999 Dongguk University Kangchenjunga Expedition
ascent1: 53rd
bcdate: 1999-04-15
smtdate: 1999-05-12
termdate: 1999-05-15
campsites: BC(15/04,5400m),C1(20/04,6300m),C2(24/04,6800m),C3(03/05,7100m),C4(11/05,7600m),Smt(12/05)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C3 on plateau.

  Summit day good weather and warm. 7th May 1st summit bid stopped at 7500m by cloud, snow and fatigue so left loads for making C4 here and down to BC. 8th May start up again: Park Young-Seok, Kang and 5 Sherpas and pitch C4 on 11 May; 3 Sherpas down to C3. 12 May 1:50 am up from C4 and 3:25 pm summit reached by Park and 2 Sherpas while Kang with heavy load including cameras turned down at almost 8000m and down to C3; biv at 8100m because had only one headlamp and very dark; very steep and could not safely return to C4 before daylight. Snow blind now in biv - stopped at 9:30-10:00 pm and 4:30-5:00 am. 13 May resumed descent and at C4 8:00 am and to C3 2:30 pm. BC 14th May. Summit area very steep rock. Kangchenjunga is "very hard mountain."

  Summit Sherpas: 
    Serap Jangbu Sherpa, 1972, Khumjung  
    Sange Sherpa, 26 years old, Phortse
    1st 8000er for both


expid: LHOT99101
peakid: LHOT
year: 1999
route1: W Face
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Josef Simunek
sponsor: Himalaya 8000 Lhotse Expedition
ascent1: 51th,52st
bcdate: 1999-04-19
smtdate: 1999-05-12
smttime: 1400
termdate: 1999-05-19
campsites: BC(19/04,5350m),C1(21/04,6000m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(27/04,7400m),C4(11/05,8000m),Smt(12-13/05)
accidents: Simunek frostbite left thumb but will heal
achievment: 1st Czech woman to summit
agency: Nepal Trans Himalayan Explorer
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall (pitched for emergencies and never used)
  C2 in West Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 at bottom of Couloir.

  Difficult making steps up inside couloir in hard surface snow and no fixed ropes (used some old ropes below C4). 12 May from C4 at 5:00 am with Simunek and Lhakpa Dorje alternated leading and cutting steps. Arrived at top at 2:00 pm, stayed 30 minutes to take video pix and slept in C3 C3 (arrived 7:30 pm in dark). 

  13 May Hruby and Moravek left C4 at 6:00 am and at top 11:30 and 11:45 am using Simunek steps in some sections having to remove fresh snow, had to make new steps in other places; slept in C2 which arrived at 2:30 and 8:00 pm snow and wind (storm made unsafe to stay in C3).

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Dorje, Sanam, Solukhumbu, summited Makalu with Simunek 19 May 98.


expid: LHOT99102
peakid: LHOT
year: 1999
route1: W Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Hirofumi Konishi
sponsor: Konishi Lhotse Expedition
ascent1: 53nd
bcdate: 1999-04-15
smtdate: 1999-05-22
smttime: 1500
agency: Cosmo Treks
campsites:
  BC(14/04,Sherpas),BC(15/04,5350m,members),C1(25/04,6000m),C2(28/04,6500m),C3(15/05,7400m),C4(21/05,8000m),Smt(22/05)

routememo:
  Same as Everest team's higher site
  C4 at bottom of couloir.

  Had 2 summit teams: 1st team used oxygen which Konishi did not want to use so climbed at different speeds. 1st team left C4 at 3:00 am all 3 reached true top at 3:00 pm and back to C4 to sleep: Man Bahadur Gurung at 7:30 pm and other 2 at 8:00 pm. This season not much snow new snow on 22nd in couloir and this made route more difficult and Phurba had to fix 300m rope in couloir. 23rd to C2.

  Konishi to C2 24th: 26th towards C3 but didn't get there because his condition "not good" (coughing) and without oxygen "very dangerous to continue up." Turned back at about 7000m and slept in C2 and climb finished. Konishi in acclimatization climb had reached yellow band at 7700m 18 May. Zangbu was with Konishi.

  Nepali summiters:
    Phurba Tshering (aka Phurba Chhiri), 31, Lokhim VDC, Solu
    Man Bahadur Gurung, 33, Sitalpati, Sankhawasabha (Dhaulagiri & Cho Oyu)


expid: LHOT99103
peakid: LHOT
year: 1999
route1: W Face
nation: UK
leaders: Henry Todd
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Lhotse
countries: Italy, USA
smtdate: 1999-04-29
termdate: 1999-05-16
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to route difficulty
campsites: BC(5350m),C1(08/04,10,6000m),C2(12/04,6350m),C3(25/04,7300m),C4(29/04,7800m),xxx(29/04,18/05,7800m)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  C4 not occupied by this team - tent and gear put in place in cooperation with Czechs; only Sherpas went there to leave gear and retrieve it but they never slept. No members went above C3: Czechs said it was hardest technical climbing they'd ever done and this team didn't have enough Sherpa strength to fix whole route as members would have needed.


expid: MAKA99101
peakid: MAKA
year: 1999
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Matthew Rolfe
sponsor: Australian-American Makalu Expedition
ascent1: 59th
countries: USA
bcdate: 1999-04-12
smtdate: 1999-05-16
smttime: 1200
termdate: 1999-05-22
campsites: BC(12/04,5600m),C1(18/04,6200m),C2(26/04,7100m),C3(02/05,7600m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
routememo:
  BC at high BC
  C1 on Chago Glacier just before steep part to Makalu La
  C3 at top of Japanese arrete.

  Did not go to Makalu La but went to top of Japanese Couloir and then northeast to cross NW Ridge. 1st summit bid not above C3 because of winds. Adams and Rolfe left BC 8 May but had report that attempt on 9th failed from C3 [Bridges and Groom] and others staying on till end May if necessary for Groom and Bridges. Sloezen soloed Japanese arrete to C2.

  Groom - 27 May: Groom and Bridges on 15 May moved C3 up to 7800m which was safer: more sheltered from fierce winds at 7600m sites and safer from avalanches. Left at 2:30 am on 16th, lot of powder snow, got lost in dark, but reached top at 12:00 noon together - got to very highest point. Too tired to go down beyond C3 at 7800m which reached at 3:00 pm has slept there on 16th; slept in BC on 17th. 

  Hall and Sloezen tried summit bid but wind prevented there going above Makalu La. 

  Bridges - 30 May: Rolfe was incompetent as a leader and had misrepresented his climbing skills.

  [From Sheer Will, by Micheal Groom: Rolfe, Adams, Davenport and Sauls left BC in early May.]


expid: MAKA99102
peakid: MAKA
year: 1999
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Alan Hinkes
sponsor: Makalu 1999
ascent1: 61st
bcdate: 1999-04-23
smtdate: 1999-05-23
smttime: 1400
termdate: 1999-05-27
campsites: BC(23/04,4900m),ABC(27/04,5700m),C1(29/04,6500m),C2(05/05,7800m),Smt(23/05)
accidents: Hinkes giardia with dehydration & forced to return to KTM from walk-in
achievment: 1st British this route
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  BC  at Hillary BC
  ABC at common ABC or even high BC
  C1  a little above start of steep face.

  Summit push from C2 on 22 May with small tent to 7800m and slept in it. 23rd May to top; left tent 5:30 and am and on top 2:00 pm. 1 hour on top filming and down to sleep 7800m. Was "a bit of blizzard" from Everest when only 80-50m from top and thought would have to turn back, but storm backed off. 24th to Makalu La and C1 to sleep. 25th to ABC.

  Dawa Tshering was Hinkes' cook but insisted on climbing - 31 years old from Kurima, Lokhim VDC, Solu.

  Hinkes climbed entirely independently and other members and had own tents and kitchen - had intended to climb alone but Dawa insisted he would climb too.


expid: MAKA99103
peakid: MAKA
year: 1999
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Andre Georges
ascent1: 58th
bcdate: 1999-04-10
smtdate: 1999-05-13
termdate: 1999-05-19
campsites: BC(10/04,5300m),C1(18/04,6400m),C2(21/04,7400m),Smt(13/05)
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  C2 at Makalu La.

  No C3. Tried twice for top - wanted to try Kukuczka route from BC to top but constant wind prevented this. 28th April slept at Makalu La but couldn't sleep there, too windy and 3 people was too many in tent. 4 May again Makalu La and up to US C4 at 7800m and down because couldn't see the way. 11 May in Makalu La. Summited May 19.

  Climbed alone always. Georges agrees this group led by Jorgensen was not a team.


expid: MAKA99104
peakid: MAKA
year: 1999
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Gary Pfisterer
sponsor: International Makalu 1999 Expedition
ascent1: 57th,60th,62nd
countries: Australia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, UK
bcdate: 1999-04-05
smtdate: 1999-04-30
smttime: 1500
termdate: 1999-05-29
accidents: Robertson bronchitis; Tonsing sinus infection; Chang serious cough
agency: Everest Parivar
campsites:
  BC(05/04,5200m),BC(08/04,5600m),C1(12/04,6200m),C2(15/04,6900m),C3(23/04,7400m),C4(29/04,7800m),Smt(30/04,22,25/05)

routememo:
  BC at Hillary BC site
  BC above glaciers' junctions and one team's BC
  C1 at top of moraine just below ice
  C3 at base of couloir leading to Makalu La
  C3 at Makalu La
  C4 at upper glacier.

  22 May at 5:00 Harrison, Robertson and Pfisterer set out from C4 for top. Pfisterer turned back 4 rope lengths from top, very tired and concerned about lateness (4:40 pm) and waited for others at crevasse at 8000m at 7:30 pm when getting dark. Harrison and Robertson went to very highest point at 6:00 pm and left quickly. Met Pfisterer about 10:00 pm with one head torch amongst them. 3 down past crevasses and confused about where tent was and at 2:30 am 23 May sat down to wait daylight (no wind but cold) and returned to tent at 5:00 am when Hinkes was just emerging from it after spending night in it without prior agreement. If had not been waiting for daylight, would have found Hinkes and Dawa. Pfisterer had two 2-man tents there and Hinkes now stayed most of day and left at 4:30 pm; Harrison left at 6:30 pm, Robertson 10:30 am. Robertson at C3 at 2:30 pm sick with acute bronchitis; Harrison and spent night there; next morning Harrison (and Pfisterer) went up to him next day and had to help him down slept 24th night in C3. 25th Pfisterer and Robertson passed C2 (Robertson very slow) and another biv at 6800m while Harrison slept in C2. Meanwhile Pierson to C3 on 24th and 1:30 am of 25th Pierson alone to top from C3 and on top 2:30 pm and back to C3 7:30 pm. 26th Pfisterer and Pierson to BC while Harrison up to clear back loads and at BC 27th and Robertson also to BC 27th.

  Chang left early (13 May) because was coughing badly, and after Jorgensen's death Chang questioned mountaineering motives. Muir left because she and her husband [John Muir] knew Jorgensen well.

  Martin Ramos arrived late at BC with Georges, Jorgensen and Pauls and went an hour more up to US, BC at 5400m (knew Pfisterer et al, from '98 Xixa) and climbed with US expedition. 5 May slept in C4 with Americans. 6 May 20 minutes up for summit bid, but "a lot of wind and go down BC" same day. 11 May C2, 12 May Makalu La, 13 May US C4, 14 May. Again lot of wind, same snow and again to BC and climbing finished.

  Ramos campsites: 
    BC(10/04,5400m),C1(14/04,6400m),C2(20/04,6800m),C3(25/04,7400m),
    C4(04/05,7800m),xxx(14/05)


expid: MAKA99105
peakid: MAKA
year: 1999
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Denmark
leaders: Michael Knakkergaard-Jorgensen
sponsor: International Makalu 1999 Expedition
ascent1: 57th w/USA
countries: Latvia
bcdate: 1999-04-10
smtdate: 1999-04-30
smttime: 1500
campsites: BC(10/04,5300m),C2(6800m),C3(7400m),C4(7800m),Smt(30/04)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  BC just above junction of glacier
  C3 at Makalu La
  High point at Makalu La.

  Markus Stofer from BC to C2 alone on 28 April after seeing Andre Georges go past BC that day and caught him up at C2. Stofer slept in C2 while Georges continued alone to C3 at Makalu La. That evening at 6:00 pm Jorgensen and Pauls passed C2 and went to C3 at 10:00 pm. 24th Stofer up early to convince Jorgensen to go on to C4 at 7800m (left 6:30 am and at 7:00 am Georges passed him in Georges descent having been discouraged by sleeping at La in strong wind). Stofer on La 9:10 am, where found Muir and Pierson (had slept at La) and Pauls and Jorgensen (who had slept there too). Pauls went down alone; Stofer and Jorgensen went up for C4 and then to top. Slept in C4 29th and 30th 5:00 am no wind so quickly left camp for summit. Mountain very dry but some snow in small couloir 8:15-8:30 am and climbed it from 11:30 am-12:00 together. From there had climbed unroped and Stofer went quickly to top alone and was just below it at 2:30 pm and Jorgensen at 3:00 pm (went to top together after Stofer had waited for him). Stayed on top in light wind - down together, Jorgensen leading to top of couloir, where Jorgensen didn't really want to continue (more tired than Stofer). Stofer went first, rapelling down couloir; Jorgensen rapelled down after Stofer and shouted out "rock fall" and almost immediately (about 4:00 pm) saw real body shoot past and down 300 vertical meters (500 linear meters) down the glacier field at 8000m on North Face (Tibetan side of NW Ridge). Stofer very scared, passed body 50m away but did not go to him - no motion from Jorgensen and long fall. Stofer very worried about his own solo descent with now broken pick of ice ax. Stofer reached C4 at 6:30 pm getting dark in at least half an hour later and was without headlamp. Slept in C4. 1 May stopped in C3 for food and drink (had had no water since previous early morning) and then to BC (5700m) where arrived at 4:00 pm without finding anyone in lower camps. Thinks Jorgensen fell either because of rock fall or belay rope slipped. Stofer left BC 3 May and flew from Tumlingtar on 7th and leaves on PIA on 8th.

  Jorgensen tecnically competent but not capable to do extremely difficult climbs like Makalu West Pillar - was wearing red down suit. Stofer teamed up with Jorgensen only at La.

  Stofer not happy about poor climbing abilities of other Pfisterer members - Ramos and Tonsing were "crazy."


expid: MANA99101
peakid: MANA
year: 1999
route1: NE Face
nation: Canada
leaders: Andrew McKinlay
sponsor: 1999 Canadian Manaslu Expedition
ascent1: 69th
countries: Czech Republic, USA
bcdate: 1999-04-05
smtdate: 1999-05-07
smttime: 1240
termdate: 1999-05-10
campsites: BC(05/04,4950m),C1(08/04,5800m),C2(15/04,6600m),C3(22/04,7400m),Smt(07/05)
accidents: Eriksson 2 frostbitten thumbs; Burgess unconscious on walk-out
agency: Sherpa High Ambitions
routememo:
  BC at normal site - all 4 expeditions together.

  1st summit bid 27 April but only 100m higher; strong cold winds turned these six members (all but Peter Burgess) back to C3. 

  2nd bid successful: forced wait extra day in C3 by winds but on 7th May was clear and clear ("the only day") and were only four members for top now (Canadians dropped out for uncertain reason). 3 Americans left C3 at 3:30 am and Czech at 5:00 am and on top: Alzner at 12:40 pm and other 2 Americans 10-20 minutes later; Czech at 3:00 pm and all slept in C3, a very unstable camp with ice underneath cracking loudly: "a scary night." Germans may report it's no longer there. Canadians' high points: Burgess to C2, McKinlays to 7500m.

  Shelley McKinlay - 17 May: Burgess became unconscious on walk-out on 12 May but recovered after few hours but didn't remember leaving BC on 10th - like a small stroke.


expid: MANA99102
peakid: MANA
year: 1999
route1: NE Face (Japanese rte)
nation: Spain
leaders: Josep Noguera
sponsor: Union Excursionista de Sabadell (UES) Manaslu 1999
ascent1: 67th
bcdate: 1999-04-04
smtdate: 1999-04-22
smttime: 1325
termdate: 1999-04-26
campsites: BC(04/04,4800m),C1(08/04,5600m),C2(16/04,6400m),C3(19/04,6850m),C4(21/04,7400m),Smt(22/04)
accidents: Oriol fell 2m into crevasse at 6300m but was clipped to fixed rope
achievment: 1st Catalans to top
agency: Mountain House
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at same site as Viesturs; Canadians and Germans 100m higher
  C3 at 100m below North Col
  C4 at 20m below summit ridge.

  After C1 occupied, down to BC for 2 days. On 16th Noguera and Montalban up to C2 and stayed on mountain till summit while other members went up and down to BC. Route was snow and ice, no rock. Summiters left C4 at 4:00 am, on top 13:25, returned to C4 at 16:00 hours. C3 to C4 more difficult: steep and dangerous hard snow, serac ice. Fixed 200m between C1 and C2 which ice serac took away; did not fix between C3 and C4 because when arrived there, were not carrying rope.


expid: MANA99103
peakid: MANA
year: 1999
route1: NE Face
nation: USA
leaders: Ed Viesturs
sponsor: 1999 Manaslu/Dhaulagiri
ascent1: 64th
countries: Finland
bcdate: 1999-04-04
smtdate: 1999-04-22
smttime: 1100
termdate: 1999-04-26
othersmts: Climbed Dhaulagiri (DHA1-991-01)
campsites: BC(04/04,4900m),C1(08/04,5600m),C2(12/04,6850m),C3(21/04,8530m),TrueSmt(22/04)
achievment: Photos confirm true summit
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site above Samagaon
  C1 at Naike Col
  C2 at (11th put C2 at 21,000 ft and moved it up next day)
  C3 at edge of summit plateau (slightly before out of wind).

  Rested in BC from 13th to 17th and up 18th. 22nd left C3 at 4:00 am, on top at 11:00 am in clear weather but wind very strong which almost knocked them over few times; had sat on plateau an hour for daylight to avoid crevasses and see where to go in general (Spanish had sat for 2 hours already and one more hour with this pair). 5:00 am started up from plateau and got to true summit after having used pickets already in place at false summit on 5m lower. Icy steep climb from North Col to plateau without fixed rope. This mountain serious climbing. "Quite adventurous with route finding needed without so many old ropes" one finds on Everest and other mountains. 22nd slept in C2 (at 4:00 pm) having packed up C3 on way down. 23rd to BC. 26th to Samagaon hoping helicopter would pick them up there but after waiting one day, walked to Phillum, where helicopter picked them up to take them to Dhaulagiri I.


expid: MANA99104
peakid: MANA
year: 1999
route1: NE Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Goetz Wiegand
sponsor: Saxon Manaslu Expedition
ascent1: 66th,67th,68th
bcdate: 1999-04-04
smtdate: 1999-04-29
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(04/04,3600m),ABC(05/04,4800m),C1(07/04,5600m),C2(14/04,6200m),C3(20/04,6700m),C4(28/04,7400m),Smt(29/04,02,05/05)

routememo:
  BC at 1 tent only (at Samagaon)
  C1 at Naike Col 
  C2 above Icefall
  C3 before North Col
  C4 just below plateau.

  29th Koehler and Meutzner left C4 at 7:00 am, an hour later than Wiegand and Stingl and turned back at 7500m thinking they were too late. 

  10th May Meutzner and Ehrlich too tried for top but got only to 7600m and back because of clouds getting dense and feared white-out.


expid: NUPT99101
peakid: NUPT
year: 1999
route1: N Face/N Rib
nation: USA
leaders: Peter Athans
sponsor: American Millenium Expedition
ascent1: 5th,6th
bcdate: 1999-04-04
smtdate: 1999-05-17
smttime: 1505
othersmts: Climbed Everest (EVER-991-19)
campsites: BC(04/04,5350m),C1(08/04,6100m),C2(13/04,6300m),C3(15/05,7030m),Smt(17-18/05)
agency: Above the Clouds
primid: EVER99119
routememo:
  Athans and Crouse wanded route and checked it out in mid-April (15-16th) and then on 13 May went to mountain and fixed 300m of line: 3 Sherpas, Athans, Crouse and Rhoads. Back to C2 and on 15th fixed another 300m of line that day, 300m 16th and on 17th summit bid another 300m+. 17th May: Gyalzen, Lapkass and Rhoads at 5:30-5:45 am left C3 on Nuptse - had already fixed much of rope but on 17th encountered heavy snow with sugar underneath and was "arduous" up 40-degree (sometimes steeper) slope with few rock bands but mostly snow and ice, a classical alpine mountain and not terribly difficult technically. On top 3:05 pm slowed by "post-holing" new snow. Clear up high and could see had reached highest point: down to C3 Nuptse at 6:15 pm. 

  17 May Athans up from C2 & C3 Nuptse and on 18th left camp at 5:00 am and on top at about 11:00 am; climbed alone and in C2 that night.

  28 May - Andy Lapkass: joined Nuptse party on 16 May in camp below snow rib on 16 May after having climbed Everest and rested at BC. Athans and Crouse started up for summit on 17 May with Rhoads, Lapkass and Gyalzen but turned back that day and Athans summited alone next day. 17 May was "a long day," exhausting work breaking trail but good route. Left camp about 5:00 am and on top at 2:30-3:00 pm and slept in some camp that night.


expid: NUPT99102
peakid: NUPT
year: 1999
route1: Khumbu Icefall
nation: USA
leaders: Scott Hamilton
sponsor: Everest Extreme Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche
bcdate: 1999-05-08
smtdate: 1999-05-12
termdate: 1999-05-20
termnote: Only to 6000m due to research objectives
campsites: BC(08/05,5350m),C1(12/05,6000m),xxx(12/05,6000m)
agency: Himalayan Holidays
routememo:
  Research on circulatory system. Purpose of expedition to go no higher than 6000m.

  Williams did not go higher because he had no partner. Athans and the rest of the group he was supposed to go with had already climbed.


expid: NUPT99103
peakid: NUPT
year: 1999
route1: SE Face of SW Ridge-SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Giancarlo Ruffino
countries: France
approach: Via Chukkung
bcdate: 1999-04-25
smtdate: 1999-04-28
termdate: 1999-05-09
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to much snowfall
campsites: BC(25/04,5130m),xxx(28/04,6000m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Not at first was very dangerous; very warm, big seracs falling, no ice on mountain. So did not go to originally planned route but went to "Bonington" ridge which connects Chhukung Peak with Nuptse's highest peak, the SW Ridge. 28 April to 6-7 May tried to go to top in one push via SE Face of this ridge. In 24 hours from BC to high point, 6000m on Ridge, which was reached by all 4 members. 28 April and down to rest. Then weather changed after full moon and brought much snowfall and never went up again despite long wait for its improvement.


expid: PUMO99101
peakid: PUMO
year: 1999
route1: SE Face/Ridge-E Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dave Nettle
sponsor: Tahoe Sierra Pumori Expedition
ascent1: 128
bcdate: 1999-04-23
smtdate: 1999-04-28
smttime: 1530
termdate: 1999-05-01
campsites: BC(23/04,5275m),C1(26/04,5486m),C2(27/04,6157m),Smt(28/04)
agency: Nomad Nepal Treks
routememo:
  BC at the beach by the lake
  C1 at small rock step
  C2 at top of rock buttress that bisects face.

  With icy conditions (very little snow on mountain) decided not to make a camp at East Col and went to top from C2, but "it made for a long day." Left C2 at 4:00 am, reached Col at 8:00 am, Jackson and Nettle on top at 3:30 pm, Lewis and Hoggard at 5:00 pm. 1st pair stayed on top an hour, met 2nd pair not far below top, and at about 1000 ft in technically difficult section above Col at 8:00 pm 1st pair stopped and waited an hour for the arrival of 2nd pair, then all descended in full moonlight and got into C2 between 1:00 and 2:00 am. Slept in C2, then down to BC, where all were in camp by 12:00 noon.


expid: THAM99101
peakid: THAM
year: 1999
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Carles Valles
sponsor: Thamserku Northwest Project
ascent1: 6th
approach: Thyangboche->Phunki Karka Village
bcdate: 1999-04-24
smtdate: 1999-04-26
smttime: 1700
termdate: 1999-04-28
campsites: BC(24/04,4400m),Biv(25/04,5300m),Smt(26/04)
achievment: New route for Thamserku
agency: Sea to Summit Trekking
routememo:
  BC at moraine of Phunki Glacier north of mountain
  Biv at near foot of NE Face.

  Climbed central part of NE Face in one continuous push starting from 5300m at 7:00 pm on 25 April. Descended same line as ascent and returned to BC 27 April 7:00 pm.


expid: DORJ99302
peakid: DORJ
year: 1999
route1: W Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Rene Robert
sponsor: Dorje Lhakpa Expedition
ascent1: 12-13th w/Grobel
bcdate: 1999-10-09
smtdate: 1999-10-28
termdate: 1999-10-29
campsites: BC(09/10,4800m),C1(12/10,5400m),C2(14/10,6200m),Smt(28-29/10)
agency: Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
routememo:
  BC as same as Paulo Grobel's expedition
  C1 as same as Paulo Grobel's expedition.

  Fixed rope 1400m from C1 to C2 with 4 Sherpas by Delapierre and Siffredi. From C2 up, fixed 400m more rope on 14-15 Oct and most down to C1 for rest (while Delapierre and Siffredi stayed in C2) and 18th to C2. Big storm on 18th night with very bad night. 19th down to BC with many avalanches below C1 (no one hurt) and 2m deep snow at BC and some tents destroyed. C2 found to be under 3m of snow but took 3 days to find it. Sherpas found tents on 25th and members reoccupied C2 on 26th.

  Delapierre and Siffredi descended by snowboards from top to BC.

  Climbed with Grobel party both days.


expid: KGUR99301
peakid: KGUR
year: 1999
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Cesare Cesa Bianchi
sponsor: Kang Guru Expedition
approach: Dumre-Beshisahar-Kato-Nar Khola Valley-Neta
bcdate: 1999-10-09
smtdate: 1999-10-10
termdate: 1999-10-15
termnote: Abandoned due to sickness of leader
campsites: BC(09/10,3650m),C1(10/10,4900m),xxx(10/10,4900m)
accidents: Cesa Bianchi serious kidney ailment
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 fixed on Oct 10 and returned to BC except Miss Pulvirenti who went with trekking group. 

  On 11th the leader suddenly got sick - kidney. The night of 12th the situation remained same. Decided to evacuate him. On 15th leader and Dr. Cotta-Ramusino left for Kathmandu by helicopter around 12:30 hours. Left Nepal on 17th.

  On 14th the team members went up to C1 and collected their belongings. The group trekked across Thorung La.


expid: LHOT99104
peakid: LHOT
year: 1999
route1: W Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Inaki Ochoa
ascent1: 50th
bcdate: 1999-04-08
smtdate: 1999-04-21
smttime: 0830
termdate: 1999-05-15
othersmts: Attempted Everest (EVER-991-24)
campsites: BC(08/04),C2(15/04,6500m),C3(20/04),Smt(21/04)
agency: Nomad Expeditions
primid: EVER99124
routememo:
  Quick climb of Lhotse by W Face:

    20 Apr - Everest C3
    21 Apr - Lhotse summit (8:30 am), descended to C2
    23 Apr - BC


expid: GANC99301
peakid: GANC
year: 1999
route1: S Face (direct)
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Christoph Jezler
sponsor: Academic Ski Club Zurich Expedition to Ganchempo
ascent1: 6th
countries: Norway
approach: Langtang Khola->Nemdong and south to Karka
bcdate: 1999-10-09
smtdate: 1999-10-15
termdate: 1999-10-21
campsites: BC(09/10,4400m),C1(11/10,5070m),C2(14/10,5540m),Smt(15/10)
achievment: 1st ascent of South Face
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  BC west of mountain
  C1 at north rocky ridge just above glacier
  C2 on glacier plateau of South Face.

  Most climbers had only 3 weeks for trip. Baumann, Jezler and others arrived 16th and went to C1 on 17th to acclimatize, back to BC 18th, but then it started to snow for several days and necessary to wait for snow to consolidate. Sherpas tried to go to C2 to bring down gear but snow too deep. Main team had to abandon hopes for top on 21st.


expid: LANG99301
peakid: LANG
year: 1999
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Teodoro Palacin
sponsor: Pena Guara 8000 Langtang Lirung Expedition
bcdate: 1999-09-28
smtdate: 1999-10-13
termdate: 1999-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 5600m due to bad weather and lack of time
campsites: BC(28/09,4300m),Depot(01/10,4800m),C1(13/10,5600m),xxx(13/10,5600m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at Lirung Glacier
  Dep at 100m above Couloir to Col.

  2 weeks of rain after reached depot and left gear. Couloir is a waterchute over rocks with small snow avalanches. Only 13 Oct in C1 and down to rest. Now climb finished because bad weather and no time to complete climb to top with much work to fix rope to C2.


expid: HIML99301
peakid: HIML
year: 1999
route1: W Ridge (WNW Ridge)
nation: Germany
leaders: Goetz Wiegand
sponsor: Himlung 1999
approach: Beshisahar up Marshyangdi->Koto Makhola->Phu Khola->Phu Gaon
bcdate: 1999-10-01
smtdate: 1999-10-10
termdate: 1999-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to extreme danger
campsites: BC(01/10,4700m),C1(06/10,5300m),C2(09/10,6150m),xxx(10/10,6200m)
accidents: Baehr altitude sickness (slight case)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC about same as Japanese 1992
  C1 on glacier below West Ridge on its south side
  C2 on West Ridge
  High point on West Ridge.

  Route was parallel to top 1992 route probably. Glacier has changed and not possible to make C2 at same site on Japanese (had loads guide who had been with Japanese). In beginning weather very bad "and we walked always in clouds." On 10 Oct tried for summit but too dangerous (cornices on one side and slab avalanche danger on other side and 50-degree small wall ahead). Left BC and made trip on 13 and 14 Oct to northwest of Himlung and climbed on unmarked 5800m peak.


expid: DORJ99301
peakid: DORJ
year: 1999
route1: W Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
sponsor: Terres d'Adventure Dorje Lhakpa Expedition
ascent1: 12-13th w/Robert
bcdate: 1999-10-18
smtdate: 1999-10-28
smttime: 1200
termdate: 1999-10-31
campsites: BC(18/10,4700m),C1(22/10,5400m),C2(24/10,6100m),Smt(28-29/10)
agency: Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
routememo:
  BC at Langshisa Tsang Glacier
  C1 at pass at start of West Ridge
  C2 at flat spot on West Ridge.

  After arrival BC had to wait for snowfall to stop before starting up - spent time on 23rd-25th searching for Robert's tents with gear both teams needed and these under 2 m snow, so took 3 days to find them; spent 4 nights in C2 for search. Finally up on 28th to top at 12:00 noon. 

  Climbed with Robert's team both days.


expid: LANG99302
peakid: LANG
year: 1999
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Hans Rauner
sponsor: Swiss Langtang Lirung Expedition
approach: Via Langtang Khola (normal route)
bcdate: 1999-10-09
smtdate: 1999-10-13
termdate: 1999-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to dangerous snow conditions and lack of time
campsites: BC(09/10,4300m),C1(13/10,5000m),xxx(13/10,5800m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site on west side of glacier
  C1 on SE Ridge (not slept in)
  High point on SE Ridge.

  Fixed ropes to 5800m and down to BC to rest planning two days later to go up again, but heavy snowfall for three days and no time to wait a week for avalanching to stop and not enough time left. C1 not slept in, only pitched. All members went to C1 site.


expid: MANN99301
peakid: MANN
year: 1999
route1: S Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Koichi Ezaki
sponsor: Sapporo Alpine Association Manaslu North Expedition 1999
ascent1: 4th,5th
bcdate: 1999-09-23
smtdate: 1999-10-18
termdate: 1999-10-26
campsites: BC(23/09,4700m),C1(29/09,5400m),C2(11/10,6200m),C3(17/10,6600m),Smt(18-19/10)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at Manaslu BC normal site
  C1 above Naike Col
  C2 on NE Face of Manaslu
  C3 at North Col (just under col).

  Dangerous avalanching and crevasses in icefall. Not so difficult technically. Avalanches came to C1 area in midnight one night, but did not hit camp.


expid: MANA99301
peakid: MANA
year: 1999
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Juanjo Garra
sponsor: Video TV Spanish Expedition Al Filo de lo Impossible
bcdate: 1999-09-13
smtdate: 1999-10-16
termdate: 1999-10-23
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to avalanche danger
campsites: BC(13-14/09,4900m),C1(16/09,5800m),C2(26/09,6600m),C3(16/10,7000m),xxx(16/10,7000m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 on glacier
  C3 at North Col
  High point at North Col C3.

  27 Sept down to BC to rest especially 60-year-old member Soria but should have continued up. 30th am started snowing and continued to 8 Oct - 2m snow in BC. Weather cleared but tents in both camps and ropes under snow. 9 Oct started breaking trail and finally slept in C1 on 14th and C2 15th, but 17-19th snow fell - another 1-1/2m snow fell. 18th down to BC. Weather cleared 20th and cold see C3 had been avalanched away. Decided too dangerous to continue on 20th. Went to C1 22nd (where not so dangerous) to retrieve gear. "We lost our chance in Sept." Expedition was organized to film Soria climbing Manaslu to summit.


expid: BARU99301
peakid: BARU
year: 1999
route1: SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Georges Derycke
sponsor: Baruntse Expedition
countries: Germany
approach: Lukla->Mera La
bcdate: 1999-10-15
smtdate: 1999-10-17
termdate: 1999-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 6150m due to heavy snow
campsites: BC(15/10,5400m),C1(17/10,6150m),xxx(17/10,6150m)
agency: Mandala Trekking
routememo:
  Oct 15 - BC by all members and two Sherpas
      16 - rest and preparation for next camp
      17 - fixed C1 by all members and Sherpas and back to BC
      18 - compelled to stay at BC due to snowfall about 1.20 metres
      19 - called Mandala for helicopter evacuation.
      22 - lifted to Lukla from BC
           The team still have tents and supplies at C1. It was not 
           possible to go to C1 and retrieve it when they left BC.

  Three members Blodau, Gelpi and Meyer left Lukla on 23rd. Gelpi left KTM on 24th for France and Blodau and Meyer left for France on Nov 4. Rest of the members were on trek to Gokyo, Thame and Thyangboche.
   
  The leader mentioned about Journal he got one from Ms. Hawley in 1990.


expid: MANA99302
peakid: MANA
year: 1999
route1: NE Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: So Byung-Gyum (Keum)
sponsor: Korean Manaslu Expedition
bcdate: 1999-09-17
smtdate: 1999-10-23
termdate: 1999-10-28
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to strong wind
campsites: BC(17/09,4800m),C1(19/09,5700m),C2(25/09,6600m),C3(23/10,7400m),xxx(23/10,7400m)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  BC as same as others
  High point at East Ridge above Col.

  Leader left BC 2 Oct to return to his job.


expid: MANA99303
peakid: MANA
year: 1999
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Hugues Griscelli
sponsor: Montagnes du Monde Manaslu Expedition
countries: Belgium
bcdate: 1999-09-26
smtdate: 1999-10-12
termdate: 1999-10-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to dangerous snow conditions
campsites: BC(26/09,4600m),C1(10/10,5800m),C2(12/10,6600m),xxx(12/10,6600m)
agency: Sailung Adventure Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 above Naike Col and black rocks
  C2 just above glacier but below North Col
  High point at C2.

  28th Oct pitched C1 and down for and then 9 days bad weather. Then up but bad weather with heavy snowfall night of 12th and all day 13th so down to BC on 13th. Waited for better snow conditions. Tried to go up again but when in C1 saw longer seracs had fallen above and ice blocks in couloir so stopped at 5700m. Never returned to C2 except maybe 2 Sherpas did to retrieve gear (they returned to KTM 28th).


expid: AMAD99301
peakid: AMAD
year: 1999
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Dave Cumming
sponsor: OTT (Out There Trekking) Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 293,294 w/Falvey
countries: USA, Uzbekistan
bcdate: 1999-10-23
smtdate: 1999-11-02
termdate: 1999-11-06
campsites: BC(23/10,4600m),C1(25/10,5750m),C2(27/10,6000m),C3(10/11,6200m),Smt(02-03/11)
agency: High Country Trekking
routememo:
  C2 tent pitched on 27 Sept but slept in only on 3 Oct in descent.

  Note: Irish team climbed independently of others.


expid: AMAD99302
peakid: AMAD
year: 1999
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Ireland
leaders: Pat Falvey
sponsor: Independent pair on UK OTT (Cummings) permit
ascent1: 294 w/UK
bcdate: 1999-10-26
smtdate: 1999-11-03
termdate: 1999-11-05
campsites: BC(26/10,4600m),C1(28/10,5750m),C2(30/10,5900m),C3(02/11,6200m),Smt(03/11)
accidents: Nothing serious but Morairty did not acclimatize well, did not get much higher than C1
agency: High Country Trekking
routememo:
  This pair were on OTT (Cummings) permit, but they climbed independently with their own tents, food and Sherpa.


expid: AMAD99303
peakid: AMAD
year: 1999
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Manuel Gonzalez Diaz
sponsor: Expedition Andalusia Ama Dablam 1999
ascent1: 286
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1999-10-13
smtdate: 1999-10-24
campsites: BC(13/10,4600m),C1(15/10,5750m),C2(17/10,6300m),Smt(24/10)
accidents: Fernandez slightly frostbitten toes
agency: Himalayan Culture Treks
routememo:
  C2 below the Dablam.

  Fixed camps together [with French]. On 19th decended to BC due to bad weather.
  On 22nd went up to C1, 23rd C2 and 24th summit two of them. One member Fernandez could not climb due to frostbitten toes. The French team was ahead of them on the summit.

  The expedition team used fixed ropes put up by others. They could not say who fixed them. The leader was saying there were many ropes. In red tower he found about six lines of rope. He said too many ropes is a problem. He appreciated the construction of toilets in BC.

  The team arrived Kathmandu on 29th from Lukla and will leave Nepal on Nov 4.

  PS: Mr. Gonzalez is leading spring [2000] expedition of seven members to Everest from south.


expid: AMAD99305
peakid: AMAD
year: 1999
route1: SW Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: David Hiddleston
sponsor: Ama Dablam Kopahuna
ascent1: 290
bcdate: 1999-10-17
smtdate: 1999-10-30
smttime: 1000
termdate: 1999-11-01
campsites: BC(17/10,4500m),C1(14/10,5600m),C2(25/10,5800m),Smt(30/10)
agency: Holiday World
routememo:
  C1 at beyond the ridge
  C2 on the ridge after the tower.

  Ropes used being fixed by own group and by other groups too. Reached C1 for the first time on 19 Oct and came down to BC the same day. Reached C1 second time on 24 Oct and reached C2 on 25 Oct, came down to BC again. Started third time for C1 on 28 Oct, spent one night and left for C2 on 29 Oct. Started climbing on 30 Oct at 4:30 am from C2 for summit. Jacques, Heah, Ang Dorje and leader Hiddleston had started for summit, but Jacques got sick approximately at an altitude of 6250m and Hiddleston had to take her down. Heah and Ang Dorje reached the top at 10 am, stayed 20 minutes on the top. It was calm and clear on the top. No other people summited from other group during the time they climbed. Came down to C3 at 12 noon and C2 at 1:30 pm. The same day they came down to BC at 6 pm.  

  Planning of future:  Everest climbing in spring 2000. Intend to climb Taboche in 2001 as a non-commercial expedition.

  Complaints: A lot of rubbish has been left by the French group of this season in C3.


expid: AMAD99307
peakid: AMAD
year: 1999
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Stephen Shrader
sponsor: Mountain Madness Ama Dablam Expedition 1999
ascent1: 302
bcdate: 1999-10-31
smtdate: 1999-11-10
termdate: 1999-11-13
campsites: BC(31/10,4600m),ABC1(03/11,5000m),ABC2(07/11,5500m),C1(08/11,5800m),C2(09/11),Smt(10/11)
agency: Mountain Madness
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  ABC2 at boulder field and below it
  C1 on SW Ridge
  C2 at normal C3 site.

  Normal C2 had lot of ice making it about impossible to camp there, so put C2 at normal C3 site.

  "A really good trip with perfect weather."


expid: AMAD99308
peakid: AMAD
year: 1999
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Zbigniew Mlynarczyk
countries: Netherlands
bcdate: 1999-09-20
smtdate: 1999-10-14
termdate: 1999-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to member's illness
campsites: BC(20/09,4550m),C1(05/10,5400m),C2(11/10,5750m),C3(14/10,6300m),xxx(14/10,6300m)
accidents: Kowatsch cerebral edema in C3
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C3 on hanging glacier
  High point at C3.

  Only few days nice weather and already much snow on mountain, when team arrived at BC. At C3 site a lot of pieces of ice but not possible to go elsewhere (members tired and late 5:00 pm when arrived); dangerous place for camp and especially for more expedition camps. 6:00 am on 15th leader learned Kowatsch seriously ill and all down with him to help evacuate him; that evening in C1 and on down to BC that night. Helicopter brought him to KTM on 16th and all members in BC 16th.


expid: AMAD99309
peakid: AMAD
year: 1999
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Harti Gfoellner
sponsor: Indepedent pair on Swiss (Amandruz) permit
ascent1: 295
bcdate: 1999-10-29
smtdate: 1999-11-03
smttime: 1030
termdate: 1999-11-06
campsites: BC(29/10,4600m),C1(01/11,5700m),Smt(03/11)
agency: Sherpa & Swiss Adventures
routememo:
  Austrians were independent team on permit of Swiss led by Paul-Victor Amaudruz. Pilz stayed in C1 but Gfoellner went to top; Pilz said he had stomach trouble, but perhaps he didn't want to try for top. Gfoellner left C1 at 2:10 am on 3 Nov, arrived at summit at 10:30 am and descend to BC that day.


expid: AMAD99310
peakid: AMAD
year: 1999
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Paul-Victor Amaudruz
sponsor: Ama Dablam Valais Expedition
ascent1: 296,300,301
bcdate: 1999-10-29
smtdate: 1999-11-04
termdate: 1999-11-10
campsites: BC(29/10,4600m),C1(03/11,5700m),Smt(04,06,08/11)
agency: Sherpa & Swiss Adventures
routememo:
  BC at normal site.

  Each summit team left C1 at 2:00 am. On 6th on top was first a German, then British and Swiss trio next.


expid: AMAD99311
peakid: AMAD
year: 1999
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Markus Prechtl
sponsor: Chiemgay Mountaineering Expedition
ascent1: 298
bcdate: 1999-11-02
smtdate: 1999-11-06
smttime: 1100
termdate: 1999-11-08
campsites: BC(02/11,4600m),C1(05/11,5750m),Smt(06/11)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  4 German summiters left C1 for top at 3:00 am and reached summit 11:00 am Nov 6 and returned to C1 same day.


expid: AMAD99312
peakid: AMAD
year: 1999
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Neil Witts
sponsor: Independent climber on German (Prechtl) permit
ascent1: 292
approach: Lukla (15 Oct)->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1999-10-24
smtdate: 1999-11-02
smttime: 1015
termdate: 1999-11-04
campsites: BC(24/10,4600m),C1(26/10,5750m),C2(01/11,6300m),Smt(02/11)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Witts was entirely independent man on German team led by Markus Prechtl, whose permit he was on. Had own food, gear and Nepali climber Krishna Bahadur Tamang. He went into Khumbu earlier than Germans and summited on the day they arrived at BC. On 2 Nov he and Tamang left C2 for the top at 6:00 am, were on summit at 10:15 am, stayed there 30 minutes and returned to C1 to sleep.


expid: AMAD99313
peakid: AMAD
year: 1999
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Nick Parks
sponsor: Ama Dablam Expedition 1999
ascent1: 297,299
countries: New Zealand, Sweden
bcdate: 1999-10-28
smtdate: 1999-11-05
smttime: 1100
termdate: 1999-11-08
campsites: BC(28/10,4500m),ABC(30/10,5700m),C1(04/11,6300m),Smt(05-06/11)
agency: Shiva Treks
routememo:
  BC at Mingbo
  C1 at normal C3 site.

  Both summit parties returned to C1 same days as reached top. Jonsson went to summit from C1 on Nov 5 in 7 hours; all others from C2 in 4 hours at 11:00 am both days.

  Wilhelmsson reached no higher than 5700m and abandoned climb on Nov 3, left BC that day.

  Team arrived KTM for climb on 22 Oct, left for Khumbu on 24 Oct to Lukla.


expid: AMAD99314
peakid: AMAD
year: 1999
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Peter Rainalter
sponsor: Austrian Team to Ama Dablam
ascent1: 287
bcdate: 1999-10-15
smtdate: 1999-10-25
smttime: 1100
termdate: 1999-10-27
campsites: BC(15/10,4600m),C1(21/10,5750m),Smt(25/10)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at beginning of the ridge.

  Reached C1 on 17 Oct and came down to BC the same day. Second time reached C1 on 21 Oct, slept one night. Third time reached C1 on 24 Oct, started climbing at midnight (full moon) for summit. Reached the summit on 25 Oct at 11 am.

  Spent half an hour on the top, taking photographs and enjoying beautiful views. Started descending at 11:30 am and arrived C1 at 4 pm. Left for BC on 26 Oct.

  Fixed ropes: used ropes fixed by other groups.


expid: AMAD99315
peakid: AMAD
year: 1999
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Arthur Schultz
sponsor: ABS Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 1999-10-11
smtdate: 1999-10-21
termdate: 1999-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to Paden's altitude sickness and Schultz's lack of interest
campsites: BC(11/10,4600m),C1(21/10,5800m),xxx(21/10,5800m)
accidents: Paden altitude sickness
agency: Holiday World
routememo:
  BC at normal site.

  Schultz went close to C1 2-3 times but too much snow. Paden to C1 once, became sick from altitude and down to BC 22nd and climb finished. Schultz had had enough of the climb by reaching 5600m.


expid: AMAD99316
peakid: AMAD
year: 1999
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Yvan Estienne
ascent1: 286 w/Spain
bcdate: 1999-10-09
smtdate: 1999-10-24
termdate: 1999-10-25
campsites: BC(09/10,4600m),C1(13/10,5700m),C2(15/10,6300m),Smt(24/10)
agency: Alpine Treks
routememo:
  3 members stayed 3 nights fixing rope above and hoping to go to up but heavy snowfall forced retreat to BC. 22 Oct summit push started and went to C1, 23rd to C2 and 24th to top (9 to top, 2 stayed in C2). Summiters reached top with 2 Spaniards.


expid: AMAD99317
peakid: AMAD
year: 1999
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Andre Georges
sponsor: International Ama Dablam Expedition 1999
countries: France
bcdate: 1999-09-15
smtdate: 1999-09-27
termdate: 1999-09-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6320m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(15/09,4500m),C1(20/09,5800m),xxx(27/09,6320m)
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  High point at 1st serac.

  Every day snowfall, so no chance for top: 3 guides, good climbers, seldom saw summit after 10:00 am and snow in afternoon.


expid: AMAD99318
peakid: AMAD
year: 1999
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Ernst Rufibach
sponsor: International Ama Dablam Expedition 1999
bcdate: 1999-10-02
smtdate: 1999-10-17
termdate: 1999-10-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to heavy snowfall and avalanche danger
campsites: BC(02/10,4600m),C1(08/10,5750m),xxx(17/10,6000m)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  C1 pitched on 4 Oct and returned to BC the same day. Left for C1 again on 8 Oct, slept there, then came down. Left for C1 again on 15 Oct and slept two nights. On 17 Oct attempted to go C2, could not make it, returned from 6000m to BC. 

  Sherpas above BC: Nima Tamang and Tendi Sherpa also reached the highest point 6000m.

  Fixed Ropes: Many ropes - new and old ones have been fixed by previous teams all over the ridge (above C5).


expid: AMAD99319
peakid: AMAD
year: 1999
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Chris Warner
sponsor: Shared Summits Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 1999-11-07
smtdate: 1999-11-13
termdate: 1999-11-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to lack of strength and motivation
campsites: BC(07/11,4600m),C1(09/11,5800m),C2(12/11,6000m),xxx(13/11,6700m)
accidents: Murphy's stomach problem kept him at C2 but not serious
agency: Himalayan Treks (Him Treks)
routememo:
  High point slightly over on West Face above the Dablam.

  Rockelman slow and too slow to go to top. Gusty winds which were very cold so Warner, who could have reached top quickly ("conservative guide"), slept in C2 night of 13 Nov while Hastings and Murphy went down to BC and climb finished because they had no enthusiasm or strength to return to climb.


expid: AMAD99320
peakid: AMAD
year: 1999
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Marcello Cominetti
sponsor: Star Trek Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 297 w/UK
countries: USA
bcdate: 1999-10-30
smtdate: 1999-11-05
termdate: 1999-11-10
campsites: BC(30/10,4600m),ABC(01/11,5300m),C1(03/11,5800m),C2(04/11,6300m),Smt(05/11)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  BC  above Mingbo
  ABC on SW Ridge
  C2  at normal C3 site.

  Fisher went up to C3 for recce alone and slept alone in C2. Felt good next day so went up. Left C2 at 8:00 am and on top at 10:00 am and down to Pangboche same day (returned to BC later). 

  2 members Cominetti and Dagnino went 7 Nov from C1 in an attempt to reach top; reached C3 but Dagnino very tired and both returned to C1 same day. Dagnino was client of Cominetti so Cominetti could not leave Dagnino.


expid: AMAD99406
peakid: AMAD
year: 1999
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Sandy Allan
sponsor: Independent party on Todd's permit
ascent1: 304
bcdate: 1999-11-20
smtdate: 1999-12-01
smttime: 1230
termdate: 1999-12-03
campsites: BC(20/11,4500m),C1(22/11,5700m),C2(30/11,6300m),Smt(01/12)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  C2 at normal C3 site.

  Went first to Chhukung to acclimatize. 1st Dec, beautiful day, Allan spent 1:15 hours on top.


expid: AMAD99401
peakid: AMAD
year: 1999
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Stephen Richardson
sponsor: Winter 99 Ama Dablam Expedition (Himalayan Kingdoms permit)
ascent1: 303
countries: Australia
bcdate: 1999-11-15
smtdate: 1999-11-24
termdate: 1999-11-26
campsites: BC(15/11,4450m),C1(18/11,5700m),C2(23/11,6300m),Smt(24/11)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  C2 at normal C3 site.

  On 24 Nov Addison 200m+ below top, was bit below other 2 members and had to turn back because of clouds and then snowfall starting. All back to C1 because of bad weather and wanted to get down quickly and in BC 25th. Three members climbed together (except Addison's failure to get all the way to the summit). Expedition commercially organized by Jagged Global (formerly Himalayan Kingdoms) with Richardson as guide - were actually on Henry Todd's permit.

  No one told Richardson before he reached BC, where he was told by Todd, that gov't rules stated winter season climbing begins on 1 Dec and this team officially not allowed to do their climbing in Nov. Team's program already fixed and their departure date set at 5 Dec from Nepal.

  Fixed rope used 3 lengths (150m).


expid: AMAD99403
peakid: AMAD
year: 1999
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Jim Williams
sponsor: 1999 Professional Mountain Guides (PMG) Ama Dablam Winter Expedition
ascent1: 306,308
countries: Australia
bcdate: 1999-11-28
smtdate: 1999-12-06
termdate: 1999-12-12
campsites: BC(28/11,4630m),C1(03/12,5850m),C2(04/12,6200m),C3(05/12,6430m),Smt(06,09/12)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  On 6th Blum and Williams got to 6600m and then Blum got cold toes, so she down and Williams her guide also down with her to C3 while other 2 members and 1 Sherpa to top, the only people to summit that day.


expid: AMAD99404
peakid: AMAD
year: 1999
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Cathy Ann Taylor
sponsor: 1999 American Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 307,309
bcdate: 1999-11-28
smtdate: 1999-12-08
termdate: 1999-12-14
campsites: BC(28/11,4785n),C1(03/12,5670m),C2(06/12,5945m),C3(07/12,6400m),Smt(08-09/12)
accidents: Nothing on mountain, but Craig Hook kidney stone problem and did no climbing
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  8th Dec all 4 members started up from C3 to top, but Taylor and Connelly turned back about 100 yards (100m) above camp in dark clouds and light snowfall but windy, so decided to wait till later date; but other two went on to the top, thinking it might be their only chance. They were only people to top on 8th. 

  On 9th weather was "beautiful and skies crystal clear." Jim Williams' summiters of 9th were just ahead of Taylor and Connelly but all pretty much together. Aengst to C1 on 9th while other three stayed in C3 another night and to C1 on 10th. All in BC by 11th "we did all the load carrying and I've never been so tired in my life": a technical climb of some difficulty with loads is not easy.


expid: AMAD99405
peakid: AMAD
year: 1999
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Alan Kearney
bcdate: 1999-12-01
smtdate: 1999-12-06
termdate: 1999-12-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to unstable serac-ice wall
campsites: BC(01/12,4800m),ABC(04/12,5400m),C1(06/12,5800m),C2(11/12,6000m),xxx(06/12,6700m)
accidents: Isherwood bad bronchitis; Cusik broken thumb
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  High point at bergschrund on West Face.

  13 down to C1 and BC 14th because there had been avalanche which started from lower serac-icefall which collapsed just below C3 site on the normal climbing route on 11 Dec and again on 14th. Did not go up mountain again because feared serac-ice wall (known as the lower dablam) was still unstable. Left BC 15 Dec and went up Kalapattar. 

  6 Dec Cusik fell into bergschrund at 6700m (22,000 ft) and broke his thumb.


expid: BARU99302
peakid: BARU
year: 1999
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Damian Benegas
sponsor: OTT (Out There Trekking) Baruntse Expedition
countries: Switzerland, USA
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1999-10-12
smtdate: 1999-10-14
termdate: 1999-10-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to heavy snow and danger of avalanche
campsites: BC(12/10,5320m),C1(14/10,6200m),xxx(14/10,6200m)
accidents: Snowblindness (leader and one Sherpa Lhakpa Gelu)
agency: High Country Trekking
routememo:
  BC at usual site
  C1 at West Col.

  Oct 14 set up C1. All members were there and down to BC. On 16th a team of six:  4 members Collins, Davey, Wannerton, Veitch, Benegas (leader) and one Sherpa went up to C1. On 18th leader and a member returned to BC. Rest (3 members and Sherpa) stayed in C1. There was a storm in the night. On 19th in the morning the leader went up to bring down the members and the Sherpa. 19th spent the night in C1. Due to difficulty in navigation in the fresh snow of about 1-1/2 meters deep, breaking/cutting trail, they (leader and Sherpa Lhakpa Gelu) had to take off their goggles; they got snowblindness. On 20th the two were rescued from BC to Kathmandu by helicopter. Six members were transported to Lukla same day. On 21/22nd two members and rest of staff evacuated to Lukla. All of them to returned to KTM on Oct 27th.

  The expedition left five tents and supplies including personal climbing gear in C1. The leader plans to go back to C1 probably on Nov 1 to retrieve the camp. Before that he wants to go on a mountain flight to assess the snow conditions in the mountains using binoculars.

  The expedition team plans to leave Nepal on Oct 30. The leader will leave on Dec 2. He said he is going to attempt Lobuche, Island Peak and the two others in Khumbu Himal during winter.

  PS: He said a French trekking group left garbage scattered, about a full load by one porter in the south edge at the base of West Col. He went to find out the trekking agency and report that to the Ministry.


expid: BARU99303
peakid: BARU
year: 1999
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Christian Funke
sponsor: Anniversary Expedition to Baruntse
ascent1: 50th
approach: Lukla->Mera La->Hinku Valley->BC
bcdate: 1999-10-27
smtdate: 1999-11-03
smttime: 1130
termdate: 1999-11-06
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak (by six members on 24 Oct)
campsites: BC(27/10,5450m),C1(31/10,6130m),C2(02/11,6650m),Smt(03/11)
agency: Annapurna Treks
routememo:
  BC a little below the lake
  C1 at West Col
  C2 on upper Baruntse Glacier.

  Oct  8  - left KTM for Lukla
  Oct 10  - left Lukla for Mera Peak
  Oct 17  - Mera BC acclimatization and rest
  Oct 18  - attempt on Mera Peak called off due to sickness of one 
            member; afternoon big snowfall
  Oct 19  - stayed Mera BC
  Oct 20  - Tangnag
  Oct 21  - Two members Buechner and Uhl evacuated to KTM by helicopter;
            (they left KTM for Germany on 26th)
  Oct 24  - All six to Mera summit
  Oct 25  - proceeded to Baruntse BC
  Oct 27  - arrived BC. Fixed BC 28-30, carrying loads to C1 and 
            preparations to set C1 
  Oct 31  - set up C1. Spent night by Peter Bayer, Walter Leyner, Rudolf Mendl 
            and Josef Polster
  Nov  1  - Peter Bayer and Polster worked for C2 - carrying loads
  Nov  2  - set up C2 spent night by Peter Bayer and Polster
  Nov  3  - Peter Bayer and Polster started at 06:00 hours, reached summit
            at 11:30 hrs, stayed about an hour and returned to C1.
  Nov  4  - All down to BC.

  Mountain condition was good in higher up than between BC to C1. BC was covered with snow - 30 to 50 cms all the time. The team returned to KTM on Nov 12 and will leave on 15th. The team probably first to succeed in the season.


expid: BARU99304
peakid: BARU
year: 1999
route1: W Face
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Marc Genevois
sponsor: Baruntse West Face
approach: Via Chhukung and Amphu Laptsa
bcdate: 1999-11-08
termdate: 1999-11-09
termnote: Abandoned due to lack of time after bad snow conditions
campsites: PreBC(08/11,5500m)
agency: Numbur Himal Treks
routememo:
  BC near lake (normal site for SE Ridge).

  Did not arrive at BC. Did not have enough porters and Marsigny reached Lukla 2 days later. Had to stop at Chhukung. Others following cyclone, could not traverse Mingbo La or Amphu Laptsa pass with porters not having proper shoes, etc from trekking agent, who had said was supplying all necessary gear for porters. Made camp at base of Amphu Laptsa. Did Ampha Laptsa later "just to check it out" and went to normal BC. Looked at West Face but no time left to attempt to climb. Went onto moraine below West Face 4 Nov.


expid: BARU99305
peakid: BARU
year: 1999
route1: N Ridge (to 5750m)
route2: SE Ridge (to 6700m)
nation: Italy
leaders: Marco Berti, Massimo Giuliberti
sponsor: International Baruntse
countries: USA
bcdate: 1999-09-28
smtdate: 1999-10-07
termdate: 1999-10-09
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to deep snow and avalanche danger
campsites: BC1(28/09,5100m),C1(28/09,5500m); BC2(04/10,5500m),C1(05/10,6100m),C2(06/10,6400m),xxx(07/10,6700m)
agency: Himalayan Excursions
routememo:
  BC at Hingu Glacier south of Island Peak
  C1 below Humsila Col of North Ridge
  2nd BC west of West Col
  C1 at West Col
  C2 at bottom of SE Ridge
  High point on SE Ridge.

  Much fresh snow in couloir; on 29 Sept Massimo and Phuri Sherpa up 250m towards Col but abandoned this route. Berti developed bad altitude sickness and Spurrier returned to BC that evening and Massimo also to BC that day. But now only 2 members so climb difficult with reduced members. 30th cleared C1 and 1 Oct moved BC and arrive site near other teams (normal BC). Much fresh snow kept falling. 8th tried for top but many avalanches and very dangerous and return BC same day.


expid: BARU99306
peakid: BARU
year: 1999
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Ruggero Pallanca
sponsor: Genova in Himalayan High Mountain Group to Baruntse
bcdate: 1999-10-17
smtdate: 1999-10-17
termdate: 1999-10-22
termnote: Abandoned due to deep snow; did no climbing
campsites: BC(17/10,5400m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  BC west of West Col on Hunku Glacier normal site.

  Impossible to reach C1 because for 3 nights and 2 days continous snow with 2m snow at BC. Did no climbing and could not return to Lukla over Amphu Labtsa, so had helicopter from BC to Lukla.


expid: BARU99307
peakid: BARU
year: 1999
route1: SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Robert Garneau
ascent1: 49th
approach: Tumlingtar->Ramra->Makalu BC->Barunste BC
bcdate: 1999-10-01
smtdate: 1999-10-22
termdate: 1999-10-27
campsites: BC(01/10,5200m),C1(06/10,5600m),C2(16/10,6100m),C3(20/10,6400m),Smt(22/10)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at the top of the glacier on the glacier.

  Bauer, Hart and Durnan started climbing from C3 for summit on 22 Oct at 7 am. Durnan turned around from an altitude of 6600m because of cold and Bauer and Hart continued to climb. They reached the summit at 4 pm and came down to C2 at 6:30 pm. They hardly could stay on the top for 3 minutes. Took photographs from the top. Came down to BC on 27 Oct.


expid: BARU99308
peakid: BARU
year: 1999
route1: SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Denis Crabieres
sponsor: French Alpine Club Baruntse Expedition
countries: Pakistan
approach: Lukla->Tangnag->Mera La->BC
bcdate: 1999-10-04
smtdate: 1999-10-15
termdate: 1999-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to too much snow, broken cornice
campsites: BC(04/10,5450m),C1(08/10,6100m),C2(13/10,6500m),xxx(15/10,7000m)
accidents: Regnier high altitude sickness, rescued on 8th, Lukla-KTM by helicopter, left Nepal on 10 or 11
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  BC at lake side
  C1 at West Col.

  Set C1 by first group of 6 members and two Sherpas: Barbier, Hayat, Le Ray, Perret, Perez and Zalio spent night. Next day back to BC.

  Second group of Crabieres, Legrand, Michaud and Simon to C1. Set C2 on 13th. Back to BC on 15th due to heavy wind. 

  About seven days strong wind. There was about 6 ft snow in the BC area. The team used about 50m extra ropes moving. The mountain condition was dangerous due to plenty of snow.

  Returned to Kathmandu on 22nd. Leave Nepal on 26th.

  This team may be the one which reached to the highest point in the season - till this date.


expid: BARU99310
peakid: BARU
year: 1999
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Robert Rackl
sponsor: Amical Alpin Baruntse Expedition 1999
bcdate: 1999-10-10
smtdate: 1999-10-15
termdate: 1999-10-23
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to lack of time
campsites: BC(10/10,5400m),C1(14/10,6100m),xxx(15/10,6500m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC west of West Col
  C1 at little to east of Col
  High point at beginning of SE Ridge.

  Made C2 on 15th Oct and down to rest at BC. 17th Oct 11 members to C1. 19th down to BC and had to stop because had to leave BC 23rd, so no more time. Helicopter BC to Lukla because too deep snow from recent snowfall.


expid: BARU99311
peakid: BARU
year: 1999
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Theodor Kubicka
sponsor: Austrian Baruntse Expedition 1999
bcdate: 1999-10-06
smtdate: 1999-10-13
termdate: 1999-10-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6450m due to dangerous snow conditions
campsites: BC(06/10,5450m),C1(10/10,6140m),C2(13/10,6450m),xxx(13/10,6450m)
agency: Himalayan Sherpa Adventure
routememo:
  BC at normal site west of West Col
  C1 at West Col
  C2 before ridge
  High point at C2.

  All members reached C2 and than stopped because so much snow and feared great difficulty in getting back to Lukla. Camped at only 6450m because other team returned and said not to go higher and that ridge too much snow and dangerous. On 15th down to BC and climb finished.


expid: CHOY87105
peakid: CHOY
year: 1987
route1: NNW Face from N
route2: W Ridge-W Face (Tichy route) from N
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Bart Vos
ascent2: 34th
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1987-04-06
smtdate: 1987-05-12
othersmts: Attempted Palung Ri to 6600m
campsites:
  BC(06/04,5000m),ABC(16/04,5500m),Recce(15/04,5700m),C1(24/04,6000m),Biv1(07/05,6300m),Biv2(10/05,6700m),Biv3(11/05,7500m),Smt(12/05)

routememo:
  BC  north of Dzapema at Kyatrak (Gyalosag Glacier west side)
  ABC probably Dzapema (highest yak point, not much used)
  Recce camp 
  Biv on Tichy route.

  Vos made a trial climb to 6600m on Palung Ri on 27th April. Then bad weather and on 28th April both down to 5500m for 9 nights awaiting good weather. 6 May again to 6000m (both members) and on 7th May both to 6300m. On 8th & 9th Vos alone reached 6500m, then back to 6000m on 9th. 10th to C1 of Tichy route (no one else on mountain now) at 6700m & on up to top. Meanwhile Boom moved a camp to 7800m and waited for Vos and he descended there on 13th after having slept at 7500m on summit night. Summit was a lot of different hills with no clear top but found Chinese marker. 1st route Vos attempted is climbable with less snow (less avalanches on 65-degree steep ice at 6500m) and more time. Vos was alone 4 days (3 nights) after having left Austrians retreating from mountain at very low camp and having left Boom for his successful summit bid.

  On first route (NNW Face) Vos left 6300m biv on 8th but had ice and avalanching sent him back to bivouac. On 9th again up, this time via couloir and again reached 6500m but more avalanching and stood there 2 hours in midst of avalanches, then managed to abseil back ("I survived") and abandoned this route in favour of Tichy route. Had snowed 7th afternoon.

  Bart Vos and Ms Annette Boom, formally members of the expedition led by Marcus Schmuck, constituted their own mini-expedition and at first attempted a route different from the normal route followed by the main party: they tried to climb the north-northwest face, made two bivouacs at 6000m and 6300m, and Vos alone reached a high point of 6500m on 65 degree hard ice but then was driven off this face by serious avalanching on two successive days (8 and 9 May). He believed his line could be climbed successfully when there is less snow to avalanche on it. They then went to the normal (Tichy) route after all other climbers had left it, made two bivouacs here (at 6700m and 7500m), and Vos went alone to the summit on 12 May.


expid: CHOY99301
peakid: CHOY
year: 1999
route1: NW side
nation: S Korea
leaders: Park Heun-Gyu
sponsor: 1999 Korea Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 342 w/Japan,NZ
approach: By road KTM->BC
bcdate: 1999-09-03
smtdate: 1999-09-26
smttime: 1315
termdate: 1999-10-01
campsites: BC(03/09),ABC(06/09,5600m),C1(11/09,6350m),C2(18/09,6800m),C3(25/09,7200m),Smt(26/09)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  On summit on 26th and could see Everest top. Americans next day went to same point and beyond it to take photos out of little fog. Americans went not so for on, maybe 100m more, McGuinness maybe only 30m more (linear distances) but same altitude (Russell Brice agrees 2 Oct 99). Summit party left C3 3:00 Chinese team, on top 3:30 pm (1:15 NST), slept C2 where arrived 10:00 pm after bringing down C3.

  Summit Sherpas: 
    Phurba Pasang, 36 years, Sotang VDC, Solukhumbu,
       only Xixabangma middle summit before, so this his 1st 8000er
    Pasang Gombu, Saframa, Lokhim VDC, claims Cho Oyu summit
       Spr 1994 with British (verified), Oct 97 with Americans (not verified)


expid: CHOY99302
peakid: CHOY
year: 1999
route1: SW Face (to 7400m)
route2: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Shoji Sakamoto
sponsor: Climbing-Fight Cho Oyu Expedition 1999
ascent2: 342 w/Kor,NZ,347
bcdate: 1999-08-31
smtdate: 1999-09-26
smttime: 1300
termdate: 1999-10-04
campsites: BC(31/08),ABC(05/09,5700m),C1(14/09,6400m),C2(19/09,7100m),C3(25/09,7400m),Smt(26/09,01/10)
accidents: Takahashi slight frostbite of toes
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  C2 pitched 30 Sept
  High point at C2.

  Normal route (made trail) summiters left C3 1:30 am (NST) and on top 1:00 pm with Koreans and McGuinness. Returned C3 5:00 pm. 1st Oct Kitamura started from C2 0:45 pm and on top 12:30 pm making new trail; did not see Everest in cloud but little later did from same point; down to C2 at 4:45 pm.

  SW Face route:

  Kitamura solo alpine-style: started from ABC 27 Sept 5:00 pm; climbed all night and reached 7200m at 4:00 am 24 Sept. Rested to hour and tried to climb higher, but snow knee-deep and very very tired. Biv at 7300m for that night. 25 Sept tried again up rock band but snow conditions bad, tried wrong route, up and different route but soft snow in hot sun and abandoned this attempt 7380m and returned to biv at 7300m. Rock band covered by soft snow and only 2 day's food and gas left, so gave up since only 100m gained in 2 days. Biv 26 Sept very slow descent because heart palpitations. Slept at bottom of the wall on moraine at 6100m. 27 Sept 9:00 am returned to ABC - had followed Kurtyka route.


expid: CHOY99303
peakid: CHOY
year: 1999
route1: NW side
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Marjan Zver
sponsor: First Psalska Himalayan Expedition Cho Oyu 1999
ascent1: 344 w/Fra,Japan
countries: France
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1999-09-06
smtdate: 1999-09-28
termdate: 1999-10-07
campsites: BC(06,10/09),ABC(15/09,5300m),C1(17/09,6300m),C2(19/09,7100m),Smt(28,30/09)
accidents: Zver cerebral edema; Kokakj 4 toes frostbitten but will heal
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Summiters of 30 Sept started at midnight from C2; Stular stronger and therefore faster. No tracks to follow as snow had fallen and obliterated it. Also avalanches often this autumn. Both saw Everest, returned to C2 same night. Stular arrived 5:00 and Oderlep at 8:00 pm. Almost all members tried to go to top from C2.


expid: CHOY99304
peakid: CHOY
year: 1999
route1: NW side
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Leopold Sulovsky, Jiri Kubec
bcdate: 1999-09-18
smtdate: 1999-10-07
termdate: 1999-10-10
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to wind
campsites: BC(18/09),ABC(21/09,5700m),C1(24/09,6400m),C2(07/10,7200m),xxx(07/10,7200m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Left ABC 5 Oct to C1. 6th arrived C2 but down to C1. 7th to C2 and slept there. 8th to ABC because of wind and climb finished.


expid: CHOY99305
peakid: CHOY
year: 1999
route1: NW side
nation: Turkey
leaders: Ugur Uluocak
approach: From Xixabangma
bcdate: 1999-09-30
smtdate: 1999-10-09
termdate: 1999-10-10
termnote: Abandoned at 8150m due to fatigue, wind and cold
othersmts: Climbed Xixabangma (middle summit on 26 Sept)
campsites: BC(30/09),ABC(01/10,5800m),C1(07/10,6400m),C2(08/10,6850m),xxx(09/10,8150m)
accidents: Frostbitten toes but will heal
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at normal site
  C2 on plateau just before normal C2.

  1st to Xixabangma, then to Cho Oyu. Took 3 hours to reach C1 because chose wrong line. No C3 - planned to go non-stop from ABC to top but bad weather delayed ascent and decided to make 2 camps above Oct at 6:00 pm Chinese time. Left C2 for top without rucksack - at 1-1/2 hrs at 7150m (normal C2 site) rested there in tent left by Czechs 30 minutes, then up again (with head lamps), followed tracks of others where visable but some slab avalanche danger. Wind started up now. Reached normal C3 3 hours after left normal site. Now left very weak and became slow and felt cold. Normal C3 2 hours to rock band but carried on ascent any way. Track now very good and wind pushing him in first part, second part of climb strong wind against him, just slowly still up. Now began sleeping while walking and found endless and didn't reach summit, but 50m vertical short of it. Then return 9:30 am to tent at 6850m. Frostbitten toes slightly. Waited in tent for sun to hit tent and left tent about 1:00 pm to descend to ABC and arrived 9 Oct 8:00 pm. 


expid: CHOY99306
peakid: CHOY
year: 1999
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Taro Tanigawa
sponsor: Japan Cho Oyu and Shishapangma Expedition
ascent1: 344 w/Fra,Slov
bcdate: 1999-09-02
smtdate: 1999-09-28
smttime: 0945
termdate: 1999-10-03
othersmts: Attempted Xixabangma
campsites: BC(02/09),ABC(10/09,5700m),C1(17/09,6400m),C2(21/09,7000m),Smt(28/09)
accidents: Slight frostbite by Okuda on Cho Oyu
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  On top 12:00 Chinese time (9:45 NST) by all 4 members, all before any French people. Okuda got frostbitten nose on 28th (his nose frostbitten '98 spring on Kangchenjunga and therefore sensitive). 

  Left Cho Oyu on 3 Sept to Xixabangma where no success. Reached 6000m on SW Face, but clouds stopped from going further twice.


expid: CHOY99307
peakid: CHOY
year: 1999
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Bernard Muller
sponsor: Stages and Expeditions French Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 343 w/UK,USA, 344
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 1999-09-07
smtdate: 1999-09-27
smttime: 0900
termdate: 1999-10-03
campsites: BC(07/09,4900m),ABC(09/09,5700m),C1(13/09,6400m),C2(26/09,7100m),Smt(27-28/09)
accidents: Ducros 7850m blind on 28th and down; slight frostbite
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  27th summit party left C2 at midnight (NST) and returned C2; on top 9:00 am 27th, saw Everest for few minutes. 28th also left camp at midnight, on top 2:00 pm because much snow during night and back to C2 at 6:30 pm.

  Pemba is Nawang Thile, 1950, Beding, Cho Oyu X6, Everest X2, K2


expid: CHOY99310
peakid: CHOY
year: 1999
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Anna Collet
ascent1: 344 w/Fra,Jap,Slov
bcdate: 1999-09-07
smtdate: 1999-09-28
termdate: 1999-10-03
campsites: BC(07/09),ABC(10/09,5700m),C1(14/09,6000m),C1(16/09,6400m),C2(27/09,7100m),Smt(28/09)
accidents: Nothing except non-fatal avalanches
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Left ABC with Batard for summit push with 2 Sherpas going ahead placing tents and making route. 14th both slept at 6000m; 15th Batard to ABC, 15th Collet stayed at 6000m arrived there; 16th up to C1 at 6400m with Lazzaroni; 17th and 18th stayed there; 19th Collet and Batard (he arrived). Batard and Phurba Sherpa taken down 200m by avalanche (not hurt only frightened): Batard insisted on taking direct route instead of normal route and big mistake, could not see in dark - had left camp at 11:00 pm of 19th and climbed through night. Avalanche at 7:00-8:00 am when too late to change route - had moved up at only 50m/hr in deep snow. All down to ABC 5:00 pm of 20th ("very long day"). Batard now left expedition despite being hired guide - ("I am not a dog") - big argument. Collet up from ABC 26 Sept with Lazzaroni and Phurba. 27th Tarke arrived ABC and left ABC with Collet and Lazzaroni (who turned back), but Collet and 2 Sherpas up to C2. 27th midnight Collet, her 2 Sherpas with Muller left C2 for top and arrived at top 2 pm: returned C2 at 6:00-7:00 pm. 29th to ABC. On top in clouds: could see no mountain nothing but reached end of other's tracks from 27th.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Phurba, 1969, Lukla, his 1st 8000er
    Tarke, 1967, Kurima, Solu, Cho Oyu Sept 1998


expid: CHOY99312
peakid: CHOY
year: 1999
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Chris Warner
sponsor: Shared Summits Expedition
ascent1: 343 w/UK,Fra
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1999-08-30
smtdate: 1999-09-27
smttime: 0800
termdate: 1999-10-01
othersmts: Xixabangma to ABC only (5670m) then found US fatal avalanche just taken place and did no climbing
campsites: BC(30/08),ABC(02/09),C1(10/09,6400m),C2(18/09,7200m),Smt(27/09)
accidents: Warner unharmed by avalanche
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  17th Sept started snowing very hard so left C2 for BC but were caught by avalanche at 7000m about 1:00 pm NST. Johnson started slab avalanche which hit Warner on fixed rope, went over his head and pushed him 50m down, not buried or hurt but "quite scared" - down to ABC and Ok. On 25th Sept up again and reached C2. 26th in C2 till 11:30 am left for top and arrived 8:00 am 27th. Went beyond 26th summiters track and (where saw upper half of Everest and top of Lhotse - 150m from here to where Johnson and Warner went but perhaps 10m lower). Slept in ABC same night, which reached 4:30 pm.


expid: CHOY99313
peakid: CHOY
year: 1999
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Fabrice Bettinelli
bcdate: 1999-09-09
smtdate: 1999-09-26
termdate: 1999-09-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to snow and cold weather
campsites: ABC(09/09,5760m),C3(25/09,7500m),xxx(26/09,7700m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  From C3 on the morning of Sept 26 Biry with the Sherpa went up about 200m following the Korean expedition. Due to cold weather they came down to the camp and same day to BC.

  They used the ropes already fixed by the New Zealand expedition in three different places. The team returned to Kathmandu almost a week ahead of the planned date.


expid: CHOY99314
peakid: CHOY
year: 1999
route1: NW side
nation: Ecuador
leaders: Francisco Espinoza
sponsor: Ecuador Al Himalaya
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1999-09-23
smtdate: 1999-09-30
termdate: 1999-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 7550m due to deep snow and continuing snowfall
campsites: BC(23/09),ABC(24/09,5700m),C1(27/09,6500m),C2(29/09,7200m),xxx(30/09,7550m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at lake
  High point on NW Face.

  [After summiting] Leiva to C1 and then to ABC 30th and climb finished though went up to bring down camps. No trail made.


expid: CHOY99315
peakid: CHOY
year: 1999
route1: NW side
nation: Chile
leaders: Christian Rasmussen
bcdate: 1999-09-09
smtdate: 1999-09-15
termdate: 1999-09-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to snow danger of avalanche
campsites: ABC(09/09,5600m),C1(11/09,6400m),xxx(15/09,6800m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Rasmussen with Sherpa fixed C1. At 6400m on 11th the team went up to 6800m on 15th. Decided to give up on Sept 17 (leader's birthday) due to danger of snow. He was also advised by Russell Brice, of the New Zealand team, not to continue.


expid: CHOY99316
peakid: CHOY
year: 1999
route1: NW side
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Jamie McGuinness
ascent1: 342 w/Japan,Kor
bcdate: 1999-09-03
smtdate: 1999-09-26
smttime: 1400
termdate: 1999-10-01
campsites: BC(03/09),ABC(07/09,5600m),C1(15/09,6350m),C2(21/09,7100m),C3(25/09,7500m),Smt(26/09)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  BC  at road head
  ABC same as others
  C1  same as others
  C3  sleeping bag only (no tent).

  Made biv at 7500m because of deep snow conditions. Left for top at midnight (NST) with Koreans, Japanese and 2 French (Muller's team) from C3 and on top 2:00 pm (French not to top). Conditions quite difficult and breaking trail through thigh-deep snow. Sherpas did most of breaking trail after halfway to top, when Koreans and Japanese did not have strength to continue this tough work. When got to "top" clouds suddenly came in, could not see Everest, et al - believes he was 1-2 vertical meters and maybe 40m short of it. Koreans stopped 50m from top in clear view and took so many pix had no time to go on towards top, maybe 2m vertically below top. McGuinness to C2 for the night; arrived there 5:00 pm.

  13 Oct 99 - Brad Johnson, who summitted 27th, went beyond tracks of 26th summiters and believes they were only about 10 vertical meters short of top.


expid: CHOY99317
peakid: CHOY
year: 1999
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Henry Todd
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 343 w/USA,Fra
countries: Australia, Japan, USA
bcdate: 1999-09-04
smtdate: 1999-09-27
smttime: 0800
termdate: 1999-09-29
campsites: BC(04/09,5200m),ABC(09/09,5800m),C1(13/09,6400m),C2(20/09,7100m),Smt(27/09)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  To top direct from 7000m C2 with Warner and Johnson with no oxygen and no Sherpas. Left C2 11:30 pm 26th and on top 8:00 am. No tracks on summit and back to ABC to sleep same day.

  No tracks means Koreans, Japanese, their Sherpas and McGuinness (independent climber) did not get all the way to very top. McGuinness tracks stopped about 80 linear meters short and all others 180 linear meters short - only few meters difference in altitude. McGuinness agreed he did not actually summit and was trying again. Their having broken trail on 26th made success of Kenny, and Johnson possible.

  Kenny was last minute addition to Todd's team. 


  Russell Brice - 2 Oct 99 

  Only quibbling to say McGuinness, Koreans and Japanese did not reach top - all really flat and all same altitude.

  Brice confirms that Kenny joined Todd's team at last minute and did summit on 27 Sept.


expid: CHOY99318
peakid: CHOY
year: 1999
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Jim Litch
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 346
countries: Australia, Japan, New Zealand, UK
bcdate: 1999-09-08
smtdate: 1999-10-01
smttime: 1110
termdate: 1999-10-05
campsites: BC(08/09),ABC(09/09,5600m),C1(15/09,6300m),C2(20/09,7000m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Pitched at C3 at 7700m on 21 Sept but not slept in because members not strong enough to carry packs to C3, so with good supply of Sherpas and oxygen and did not want to lose another day. Now avalanche danger and had to wait for snow conditions to get good. Summit party of Litch, Staples, Lapkass and Ang Dorje, Lhakpa Tshering, Chuldim and Tenzing, Tucker, Arayama and Pappas left C2 00:15 hours (NST) on 1 Oct and summit not reached by Pappas, Chuldim and Tenzing while all others to top: Litch and Ang Dorje at 11:10 am, Tucker, Lhakpa at 11:40 am, Staples at 12:00 pm, Arayama and Lapkass at 12:15 pm. Arayama, Staples and Litch last into C2 at 7:00 pm because Arayama a very slow. Litch only one to true top and Sakamoto who was with them did not; [stopped] early 20m below top.

  Summit Sherpas:
    Ang Dorje, from Pangboche, - his 4th ascent
    Lhakpa Tshering, from Khunde - 1st ascent of Cho Oyu, but Everest X3


  Litch - 26 Dec 2000 

  Actually only person from this expedition to reach summit was Litch. All others were on plateau but failed to go beyond this summit plateau.


expid: CHOY99319
peakid: CHOY
year: 1999
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Eric Simonson
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 1999-09-01
smtdate: 1999-09-20
termdate: 1999-09-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to deep snow and avalanche danger
campsites: BC(01/09),ABC(05/09,5600m),C1(10/09,6250m),C2(15/09,7000m),xxx(20/09,7400m)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  Eric Simonson - 6 July 2005 (by email)

  1999 Cho Oyu: We turned back because of deep snow enroute to C3; decided it was too avalanche prone and dangerous for the people (who would have been the Sherpas) out front breaking trail.


expid: CHOY99321
peakid: CHOY
year: 1999
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Jose Ignacio Martinez
sponsor: Extremenos al Cho Oyu 1999
bcdate: 1999-09-09
smtdate: 1999-09-17
termdate: 1999-09-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to snow and danger of avalanche
campsites: ABC(09/09,5600m),C1(11/09,6400m),C2(17/09,7100m),xxx(17/09,7100m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 on the ridge
  C2 not slept in.

  The expedition "Extremenos Al Cho Oyu '99" leader said the could not go beyond C2. They used the ropes fixed by New Zealand team.

  Nincho Expedition (Fermin Aristo). He spent a night on C2 on 25th. Next day 26 had to give up the climb - reason: bad weather, snow.

  Christian Rasmussen with Sherpa fixed C1 6400m on 11th. The team went upto 6800m on 15th. Decided to give up on Sept 17 (his birthday) due to danger of avalanche. He was also advised by Russell Price (New Zealand team) not to continue due to the bad conditions of weather.

  (All three teams returned to Kathmandu on 1 Oct).


expid: CHOY99308
peakid: CHOY
year: 1999
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Fermin Aristo
sponsor: Nimcho Expedition Cho Oyu
bcdate: 1999-09-09
smtdate: 1999-09-17
termdate: 1999-09-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to snow and danger of avalanche
campsites: BC(09/09,5600m),C1(11/09,6400m),C2(17/09,7100m),xxx(25/09,7100m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C2 at Martinez C2 tent.

  Aristu used same camp of other Spanish team of four. Spent night at C2 on 25th. Next day had to give up the climb (bad snow and danger of avalanches).


expid: CHOP99301
peakid: CHOP
year: 1999
route1: W Face of Hardie Col-N Ridge-N Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Markus Walter
sponsor: Saxon Khumbu Expedition 1999
ascent1: 2nd (1st official)
approach: Dingboche->Chhukung
bcdate: 1999-10-24
smtdate: 1999-11-12
smttime: 1000
termdate: 1999-11-19
campsites: BC(24/10,5150m),C1(01/11,5470m),C2(03/11,6183m),Smt(12/11)
agency: Multi Adventure
routememo:
  BC west of point 5212m on moraine below Island Peak
  C1 near foot of Cho Polu's West Face
  C2 at Hardie Col on North Ridge.

  Deep snow on route from Chhukung to BC and had to slow trail after very heavy snowfall of 18-20 Oct and had to carry loads from Island Peak BC, where yaks stopped. From BC moved north on moraine below to point 5357m, then crossed glacier, eastwards to big stone at 5340m, where made depot on 29 Oct and returned to BC. 1 Nov went from BC to depot and north from it to rocky foot of Cho Polu's West Face; made camp slightly west of foot of West Face and of Hardie Col. 2 Nov up towards Col but reached about 150m below it because slow progress with heavy loads on backs and deep snow. Made biv here and on 3 Nov moved tents up to highest point on Col. Hoped to proceed on North Ridge but many big cornices and 2 steep rock steps and exposed to strong cold wind. To move on ridge is serious climbing. Stayed 1 day on Col because wind too strong to leave tents. 5 Nov winds slightly lower and down to BC. Rested in BC 6-8 Nov. 9 Nov made and the push to top and slept in C1. 10 Nov to C2. 11 Nov crossed to east side of Col, roped down about 7m on rock face and from there traversed south to summit. This day went to check snow conditions and returned to C2. 12 Nov left C2 4:30 am made entire way to bergschrund at 6:00 am and top at 10:00 am. Stayed an hour on top in very nice weather foot of North Face and climb on North Face and "incredible view" said Rieck. Returned to bergschrund at 1:00 pm and at Col at from 2:00 to 3:00 pm and slept in C2. 13 Nov down to C1 to sleep. BC on 14 Nov. All four members moved together everyday.


expid: DHA199307
peakid: DHA1
year: 1999
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Mexico
leaders: Jorge Hermosillo
sponsor: Mexican Dhaulagiri Expedition
bcdate: 1999-09-15
smtdate: 1999-10-10
termdate: 1999-10-13
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due deep snow and time over
campsites: BC(15/09,4600m),C1(17/09,5800m),C2(23/09,6500m),xxx(10/10,6900m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at NE Col
  C2 at NE Ridge
  High point at NE Ridge.

  25 Sept returned to BC after all night snowfall. 8th Oct up to C1, 9th C2, 10th attempt for summit to 6900m because deep snow and wind storm with snowfall.


expid: DHA199301
peakid: DHA1
year: 1999
route1: S Face-SE Ridge-E Face-NE Ridge
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Tomaz Humar
sponsor: Slovenian Dhaulagiri Expedition
countries: Croatia
bcdate: 1999-09-26
smtdate: 1999-11-02
termdate: 1999-11-04
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to route difficulties
campsites: BC(26/09,4550m),C1(29/09,5600m),C2(11/10,6500m),SFaceBC(15/10,3880m),xxx(02/11,7900m)
achievment: 1st ascent of S Face from center of face to SE Ridge
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC below normal BC (arrived at glacier by helicopter)
  C1 near NE Col
  C2 on NE Ridge
  High point South Face at bottom of South Face of middle of face.

  Down to BC on 30 Sept because of snowfall. Up 10 Oct to C1, 11 Oct made C2, Humar above to C3 site on 12th and same day "ran down" to C1 and 10:00 pm on BC snowing foggy, avalanching (hit Humar but not hurt). 15 Oct from north to south BC's by helicopter. 25th Oct started up alone afternoon (BC to foot of wall took 4 hours to wall itself). Started on wall at 4:00 pm - was warm so all icefalls had melted and water instead, so had to shift route to rock. Even so many falling rocks hit him but still no serious injuries, only much bruising. On 26th at 2:00 am reached ledge 5500m and stopped here because now no moonlight - had climbed up for recce and return to ledge. Waited for dark, hoping icefall will freeze, but not frozen, so started up to try icefall but water freezing on him and back to ledge. Did not go all the way to summit because "I know I will die." Ate once a day before start of that day's climb. Problem included rock barriers, soft ice-snow-water mixture very difficult to climb, extreme winds (especially on 2 Nov). Climb watched by Bozic using long lenses every day. Frostbitten toes from moving too slowly in very difficult parts like snow ice - water mixtures, frostbitten fingers when had to take off gloves at difficult rock pitch; all not serious.


  Chronology of Tomaz's Humar's climb of South Face of Dhaulagiri I

  25 October - Set foot on South Face about 5:00 pm and arrived at first bivouac (4600m) at 2:00 am on 26 Oct.

  26 October - From first bivouac, spent the day climbing to the top of a rock wall to see the the wall; returned to same bivouac to sleep there again.

  27 October - Ascended all day on rock to snow slope where made second bivouac (5700m) at 4:00 am on 28 Oct. Was hit in one leg by large rock in bivouac.

  28 October - Rested in morning and started up at 2:00 pm. Reached lower end of serac at 2:00 am of 29 Oct and made third bivouac (6300m). In one section of this part of climb, it took two and a half to three hours to gain 20 vertical meters on sort mixture of snow, ice and water.

  29 October - Resumed climbing at 10:00 am and reached top of serac at 6:00 pm. Made fourth bivouac here (6800m).

  30 October - Started up at 11:00 am and made fifth bivouac at 7:00 pm (7100m) at start of his traverse towards the SE Ridge (Japanese Ridge). In the afternoon, looked up towards major rock band across the face at about 7300m and realized it would take him two or three days to continue up a direct line to make the very difficult climb up and over the band; decided he must instead make a traverse around the band, and chose to traverse to the right or east to be able to reach eventually his descent route on the NE Ridge.

  31 October - Completed his traverse of this part of the face and climbed a smaller rock barrier to reach the SE Ridge at 5:00 pm; made sixth bivouac (7300m) here at the ridge.

  1 Nov - Left at sixth bivouac his tent, rope, almost all pitons, slings, 2 ice screws, etc. to be able to move fast. He had decided he must abandon attempt to reach summit: "I know I will die" if he did not. At 8:00 am started up SE Ridge, then moved left onto South Face and up it; at 5:00 pm made seventh bivouac (7700m).

  2 Nov - At 11:00 am resumed climb straight up the Face and at 1:00 pm met the SE Ridge again at 7900m. At 2:30 pm resumed climb, crossed the East Face for a short distance in very strong wind to the NE Ridge. Down the NE Ridge (the standard route) to the tent left for him by American Gary Pfisterer's expedition at C3 (7300m), which he reached at 5:00 pm, and spent the night there.

  3 Nov - Down to C1 (5600m) on NE Ridge route to wait for helicopter to evacuated him. Helicopter did not come, so two members moved up to Humar and spent night with him at C1.

  4 Nov - Helicopter arrived at C1 and flew Humar and other members from C1 and Base Camp to Pokhara.


expid: DHA199302
peakid: DHA1
year: 1999
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Pierre-Alain Romagnoli
sponsor: Swiss Dhaulagiri I Expedition
bcdate: 1999-09-15
smtdate: 1999-10-12
termdate: 1999-10-14
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to stomach illnesses and no time left
campsites: BC(15/09,4750m),C1(19/09,5800m),C2(25/09,6600m),xxx(12/10,7400m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at NE Col
  C2 on NE Ridge
  High point on NE Ridge.

  27th down from C2 to BC. 10 days snow. Up again from BC on 9 Oct, reached C1 9th, C2 on 10th, 11th 9:00 pm up for top, but all 3 on this attempt got bad stomach illness (bad food?) and had to stop at 4:00-5:00 am at 7400m. Down to BC on 12th by skis. Now no more time and had to stop climb. Snow not such big problem on lower part of mountain because had skis.


expid: DHA199303
peakid: DHA1
year: 1999
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Ryuseki Hiraoka
sponsor: Dhaulagiri I Expedition 1999 by Alpine Team 84
bcdate: 1999-09-10
smtdate: 1999-09-29
termdate: 1999-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to strong wind and cold, very tired
campsites: BC(10/09,4700m),C1(12/09,5700m),C2(20/09,6500m),C3(12/10,7400m),xxx(29/09,12/10,7400m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at NE Col hoping to go to top of East Face
  C2 on NE Ridge
  C3 on NE Ridge
  High point at C3.

  Intended to climb East Face and made a camp very near face to see conditions; was at 5700m on 12 Sept just over the Col, where Czechs later camped for NE Ridge climb. Went closer to East Face on 13 Sept and 14 up NE Ridge to 6500m to acclimatize and down to BC. 18th to advance BC for face and 19th again up closer to face to see its condition and but all rock and decided route impossible, so 20th to C2 on NE Ridge and climbed normal route. 22nd down to BC because of heavy snowfall. C2 again 28th. 29th to C3 and back to C2 in more bad weather and 30 Sept to BC. 12 Oct to C3 and slept there but 13 Oct very cold and strong wind and down to BC. When returned to C1 and C2 tents almost buried under snow and digging them out made them very tired. Never actually "touched" East Face, "just looked."


expid: DHA199305
peakid: DHA1
year: 1999
route1: NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Francois Damilano
sponsor: French Dhaulagiri Expedition
bcdate: 1999-09-29
smtdate: 1999-10-17
termdate: 1999-10-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to bad weather and later fatal avalanche
campsites: BC(29/09,4700m),C1(09/10,5900m),C2(10/10,6500m),C3(17/10,7400m),xxx(17/10,7400m)
accidents: Fatal avalanche (1 death)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at NE Col
  C2 at last crevasse on NE Ridge
  C3 on NE Ridge
  High point at C3.

  18 Oct 3 people who had gone to C3 to try for top, went down to BC. 

  Now strong wind blowing light snowfall. So last summit bid started up with 3 from US team, Moravek of Czech team, 3 French and their two "Sherpas"; left BC 21st, 22nd left C1 and 23rd left C2 to go to C3 all together. Very little snow had collected. Left C2 at 7:00 am to 7:20 am in single file with summiters between them; summiter and Dawa in the lead, Damilano, Caillat, Harrison, Shaw, Pfisterer and Baderoux; Moravek still in camp getting ready. Small slab avalanche hit at 200m above C2 at maybe 8:00 am - hit Harrison, Dawa, Damilano and his client Caillat. Caillat and Damilano covered and carried down 150 linear meters and Ok but don't know where Harrison and Dawa went. Avalanche split in half and some down other side of ridge and perhaps they were carried into crevasse there - search found no traces. French after searching all day and then to BC same evening and climb finished because of fatal avalanche.

  * US Dhaulagiri's Pfisterer and Shaw absolutely positive avalanche occured on 24th, not 23rd.


expid: DHA199306
peakid: DHA1
year: 1999
route1: NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Gary Pfisterer
sponsor: International Dhaulagiri Expedition 99
ascent1: 103
countries: Australia, Austria, Romania, UK
bcdate: 1999-08-31
smtdate: 1999-10-16
smttime: 1430
termdate: 1999-10-27
campsites: BC(31/08,4800m),C1(08/09,5850m),C2(16/09,6500m),C3(28/09,7300m),Smt(16/10)
accidents: Fatal avalanche (1 death)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at slightly above NE Col
  C2 on NE Ridge
  C3 on NE Ridge.

  30 Sept down to BC for rest and weather had worsened. All in BC for eight days snowfall (2m snowfall at BC) and wait for avalanches to stop. Team into 3 groups of members and moved up in rotation; 1st group up on 9th, 2nd on 11th and 3rd on 15th. Ginette and Gary up in 13th group but came down from C2 because member 11th group did not evacuate C2 to make space for 13th party. Walter and Strausz up with 13th group, stayed in C1, C2 on 14th, C3 on 15th, top and back C3 on 16th (on top at 2:30 pm by Walters and 4:00 pm Strausz at 4:00 pm - had left C3 5:30 am). 17th down to C1 and 18th to BC. 

  Next serious summit bid on 22 Oct by Harrison, Pfisterer and Shaw to C1, C2 23 Oct and on up towards C3 24 Oct but fatal avalanche struck at about 6750m (less than hour from C2) at about 9:00 am. Searched for several hours with help from French and Czechs but not any trace of 2 who died (swept down 1000m on North Face into crevasse, speculation says, then to C1 for night.


  Climber Harrison killed in Himalayas

  Kathmandu. Oct 27 (Reuters)- Well-known British climber Ginette Lesley Harrison died in an avalanche on the world's 7th highest mountain. Dhaulagiri I on last Sunday, a hiking official said on Wednesday.
     "We lost Ginette," Murali Sharma, chief of the Panvar Trekking agency that was handling the expedition, said quoting a message from her climber husband Gary Pfisterer, who was leading the climbing team.
      An avalanche hit the 41-year-old Harrison at an altitude above 6500m between camp two and camp three, Gary told Sharma by satellite phone from the mountain. He gave no further details.
      Harrison was part of an American expedition to the 8167 meters (26,795 ft) Dhaulagiri I peak through the normal northeast ridge route in Nepal's central Himalayas.
      A Sherpa guide of the team was also killed in the avalanche, Sharma said.
      Harrison, the only woman to have reached the 8586 metre (28,169 ft) Kangchenjunga summit, the third highest in the world was living in Monson, Mass with her American husband.
      She was one of the 52 women from all nations and the second of three British women to have climbed the 8848 meter (29,038 ft) Everest summit.
      Harrison had also climbed the fifth highest mountain, Makalu, Cho Oyu (the sixth) and Shishapangma, the last of 14 mountain peaks that are taller than 8000 meter (26,246 ft).


expid: DROM99301
peakid: DROM
year: 1999
route1: N Face
nation: UK
leaders: Bruce Normand
sponsor: Drohmo Expedition 99
countries: France, Germany, New Zealand
bcdate: 1999-10-09
smtdate: 1999-10-15
termdate: 1999-10-25
termnote: Abandoned at 6250m due to bad snow conditions on face and illness of cook
campsites: BC(09/10,4960m),ABC(14/10,5500m),xxx(15/10,6250m)
accidents: Kunze bronchial problem and Arnott fever; cook thombosis
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at Pangpema
  ABC at 5509m on top Kangchenjunga map on Ginsang Glacier
  High point below North Face and North Ridge.

  15 Oct Normand and Guthrie went up from ABC to west on north side of Drohmo to look for climbing route up North Face. Stopped below North Ridge (below points 6350m and 6340m) dropped gear at 6250m and back to 5500m same night. Back to BC to rest and get more gear but started snowing next morning. Went up to get gear at 6250m but no more attempts to climb because snow on face unconsolidated. Back from gear retrieval on 23 Oct to find 2 members gone down to Lhonak and cook had developed thrombosis in leg.


expid: EVER99301
peakid: EVER
year: 1999
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Isidoro Rodriguez
sponsor: Samuel Rubio Expedition from Castille & Leon to Everest
bcdate: 1999-09-07
smtdate: 1999-09-28
termdate: 1999-10-12
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to deep snow and avalanching on Lhotse Face
campsites: BC(07/09),C1(13/09,6100m),C2(20/09,6400m),C3(24/09,7300m),xxx(28/09,7500m)
accidents: 1 Sherpa ulcer
agency: Sherpa Alpine Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C3 pitched but not slept in
  High point at yellow band on Lhotse West Face.

  Put 30 ladders in Icefall. 23-24th one part of icefall collapsed, but no one hurt. 28th reached yellow band at 7500m from C2 and hoped to go higher, but weather changed for the worst and started snowing; more than one meter snow and too dangerous to reach C3. 28th slept in C2. Returned to BC 29th with sick Sherpa and after 29th continuous snowfall for 6 days. Sherpas tried on 5th to go up to see conditions and found took two days to reach C3 and abandoned attempt to reach C3 about half way because of avalanching and climb finished.


expid: EVER99302
peakid: EVER
year: 1999
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Iosu Feijoo
sponsor: Basque Expedition to Chomolungma
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 1999-09-10
smtdate: 1999-09-20
termdate: 1999-09-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7350m due to avalanching
campsites: BC(10/09,5125m),ABC(15/09,6360m),C1(19/09,7125m),xxx(20/09,7350m)
accidents: Feijoo bad throat
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at road head
  C1 at North Col
  High point at North Ridge.

  Put much gear at 7350m deposit which was taken by avalanche. Every day 4-5 avalanches. Frequent snowfall also obliterated trail quickly and one-meter deep snow "all the time" and Sherpas say not possible to climb with such deep snow.


expid: EVER99303
peakid: EVER
year: 1999
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Mario Merelli, Ernesto Cocchetti
sponsor: Everest 1999 8848m Hope for a Beautiful Third Millenium
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC (both returned via Lhasa)
bcdate: 1999-09-17
smtdate: 1999-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to deep snow and strong winds
campsites: BC(17/09),ABC(27/09,6400m),xxx(15/10,7000m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  High point at 7000m at North Col.

  After 27 Sept above falling in warm weather then strong wind. One day to 6500m too see route above and finally reached North Col on 15 Oct, but too strong wind and could not sleep there, so down to ABC. Spent 27 days in ABC. Snow became so deep yaks could not reach ABC for days and members and 1 cook had to make their way through it in waist-deep snow to BC. 25 Oct yaks able to go up to retrieve gear at ABC and trucks able to reach BC, but had to go to Lhasa, not Zangmu because of snow.


expid: EVER99304
peakid: EVER
year: 1999
route1: E Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Won-Mo
sponsor: Korean Everest East Face Expedition
bcdate: 1999-09-18
smtdate: 1999-10-13
termdate: 1999-10-31
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to loss of C1 and wind very strong and cold
campsites: BC(18/09,5350m),ABC(24/09,5550m),C2(09/10,6350m),xxx(13/10,6400m)
accidents: You reactivated old back problem and serious pain sent him to BC
agency: Beyond Base Camp
routememo:
  BC  at moraine on side of Kangshung Glacier
  ABC at moraine on side of Kangshung Glacier
  C1  at steep snow ridge of East Face.

  BC to ABC took 4 hours, even 3 days in deep snow. After C1 occupied, every morning clear skies but afternoon snow and by 16 Oct snow heavily accumulated. Members exchanged places in C1 and working on route above, but very slow progress: about 35m in one day, 100m linear in 1 day on 90 degree slope. 16 Oct to 20 Oct heavy snowfall with blizzard on 20 Oct with 1 tent at BC flying 100m. Reached 6400m maximum. Ryoo hit by snow avalanche at C1 and taken down 30m but not hurt. Many snow avalanches so very dangerous. Also very big avalanches off Lhotse. Also much falling rock on part of face of Koreans route. After storm, tried again but C1 completely gone; no tents, food, gear, etc; dug half day to find but no success by Lim Myung-Youl, Park Dae-Woon, Ryoo Bo-Hyun. Did not go above campsite. Now jet stream started, -20 degrees in BC in mornings.

  * Highest point reached was 6400m on East Face snow ridge: on 13 Oct by Lim, Park Dae-Woon and Lee Tae-Soon; on 14 Oct by Lim and Park Dae-Woon; on 28 Oct by Lim, Park Dae-Woon and Ryoo.


expid: EVER99401
peakid: EVER
year: 1999
route1: N Col
nation: USA
leaders: Robert Anderson
sponsor: Everest Millenium
bcdate: 1999-11-23
smtdate: 1999-12-07
termdate: 1999-12-23
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to Sherpa's illness
campsites: BC(23/11),C1(28/11,5600m),C2(30/11,6000m),C3(06/12,6500m),xxx(07/12,7000m)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  C3 at normal ABC
  High point at North Col.

  1. Arrived Chinese BC on 23 Nov.

  2. Slept in C2 28 November (5600m), C2 30 November (6000m), C3 6 Dec (6500m).

  3. Reached the North Col (7000m+) with Lhakpa Dorje on 7 December. Climbed unroped up to the Col from C3 in 5 hours, fixed one 200m rope on descent, from just below the crest of the North Col.

  4. I abandoned the climb on 22 December, after Lhakpa Dorje hadn't eaten a proper meal in 5 days and didn't seem to be improving at BC. He was to climb with me above the North Col and I didn't think he would recover to make an ascent within the next two weeks. We had made an attempt to carry to the North Col 2 days previously and he had been unable to reach even the base of the climbing on the North Col route, 200 vertical meters of walking up the Glacier above C3. I had already determined that of the two Sherpas, Lhakpa had the expertise to climb high on the mountain, while Gombu would primarily carry loads for us.

  5. Lhakpa began vomiting and had stomach and lower gastro problems from 17 Dec.  These faded and then returned as we climbed up from lower camps to C3. He thought it was from cooking and gas fumes in the tent. However, duration and symptoms indicated it was a gastro-intestinal bug, which didn't fully fade away until we reached KTM.

  6. No oxygen was used. I took 8 bottles and planned to use it from 8000m up.
   
  7. Besides Lhakpa, everyone else was in good health.

  8. No frostbite or other incidents. Five puppies were born at Base Camp from one of the two dogs that followed us everywhere. We left them in the care of the lama who lives above the Rongbuk. The second dog ascended up the initial steep climbing leading to the North Col, reaching over 6800m.

  9. We departed BC 23 Dec, overnighted in Tingri and then arrived Kathmandu late 24 Dec.

  10. Technical problems. Potentially it could be impossible to reached BC, but we were lucky as the last storm had cleared and we drove direct to BC. A major hurdle was the inability of the yaks to progress past C1 at 5600m, when they normally carry to 6500m. This necessitated multiple carries from C1 to C2 and onto C3. Also, the drifting snow meant about 20% of the glacier between C1 and C3 required trail breaking and about 50% between C2 and C3. This partially hardened up, but sections were always knee to thigh deep on every carry. The option of employing Tibetan porters was considered, but they were never able to ascend past C2 due to the deep snow and cold. We often wore double boots from C1-C2 and always from c2-C3. It normally took us about 30-50% longer to cover the distance than in the spring and the first time it took twice as long.

  Snow conditions. As above on the trail. The slopes to the North Col were in very good shape, hard snow, little or no avalanche danger - one of the advantages of winter. Above the North Col (we walked across the Col to the base of the slope leading to the C5 (7800 m) and the snow was hard all the way and would seem to be that way up the ridge due to the wind.

  Weather. The actual temperatures weren't  extreme (say 25 degrees colder than the spring as a rough guide), but the combination of wind, altitude and shorter days  made them seem much colder than the thermometer indicated. In the shade at BC it never reaced above freezing, but the sun, from 8am-3pm warmed tents up considerably. Above BC, the wind and altitude made conditions exponentially more difficult. The Sherpa's repeatedly said that camp 3 at 6500 m was like (if not worse than) being at the South Col. I'd say a rough guide was most elevations seemed 1000 m higher in terms of conditions and the ability to stay there for any length of time. There were also the winds, which if they weren't actually blowing wehre we were, sounded like a large and v ery angry river rushing overhead. the winds were never constant however, and could go from absolutely dead calm, to massive gusts.

  11. Abandoning the climb was very disappointing, as we had equipment in C3 and the rope to the Col that would have opened our way onto the upper slopes. I had planned on climbing direct from C4 (North Col, 7000 m) to C6 at 8100 m to avoid the very exposed C5 on the ridge. I have done this several times previously (1991 solo and again with Paul Teare in 1992) and felt if anything, that with the hard snow conditions, it would be quicker than in the Spring season. However, the opportunity to be on Everest by ourselves was very unique. It felt like an entirely different mountain and one that was very very remote and untouched. For that alone it was well worth going.

  12. The top the combination of winter weather and climbing Alpine style above the Col would have made the top difficult, but certainly not impossible. There are certainly days when it is possible and the winds caught up high would be dangerous. Climbing quickly up high would be an advantage and a lightweight attempt would be safer than putting in all the camps and carrying loads up high in traditional style.

  If I tried again it would be with a team of 6 climbers and about the same number of Sherpas to ensure a stronger presence at C3. But there will always be a big chance taken as to weather BC can be reached by vehichle and then weather Yaks will go to C3, both of which alter logistics substantially.

  We discussed sun on the mountain. As mentioned above BC was about 8am-3 pm, earlier than I thought because the sun comes through a valley further along the ridge and so isn't much different from the summit jin terms of morning sunrise. At C1 it was about an hour less. At C3, the valley opens to the East so it came up about 7, and it just clears the Northeast ridge so we had sun all day until it set over the North Col about 3 pm. The North Ridge gets sun most of the day and there is a little in the morning at C6 at 8100 m and then the sun again just reaches that terrace again from about 4-5 pm. The North Face itself is pretty much fully shaded all day.

  Started from BC on 27th Nov in waist deep snow; after 2 hours stopped and made camp at about 540 m; 29th up to 5800m and made camp (C2). 29th arrived ABC but back to C1 that afternoon; while Anderson down to BC and back to C1 with load of gear. 30th ferried gears from BC to C2 and slept at C1 and next days continued ferrying to ABC till 3rd Dec finally slept in ABC. Now strong winds broke kitchen tent so 5th C2 on 9th. 10th ABC and now they put in new kitchen tent. 11th Gombu and cook Tendi down to C2 to ferry gears to ABC (while Lhakpa and Anderson went to North Col to see route in alpine style (i.e., no fixed rope) and slept also that night in ABC. 12th Robert and Lhakpa tried to reach Col but strong winds sent them down to ABC on 12th. 15th Lhakpa developed stomach trouble. 17th Robert, Lhakpa and Gombu up towards Col but Lhakpa too sick to reach Col and all 3 returned to ABC. 18th to C1 and decided to end attempt to reach top because very cold, bad wind winds, cloudy and Lhakpa sick. ABC and lower camps cleared by all 3 Sherpas while Robert down to BC. Anderson wants to return to North Col in winter after 2 years with more members and more Sherpas.

  Sherpas: 
    Lhakpa Dorje, Kurima, 33, Everest top 1995 from North with Taiwanese and 1996
      from South with Breashears
    Pasang Gombu, 38, Sapharma, Solu, Cho Oyu X2


expid: GURK99301
peakid: GURK
year: 1999
route1: W Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Juergen Schuelz
sponsor: South Palatinate Himalaya Expedition 99
countries: UK
bcdate: 1999-10-24
smtdate: 1999-11-02
termdate: 1999-11-03
termnote: Abandoned at 4800m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(24/10),xxx(02/11,4800m)
agency: Baudha Himal
routememo:
  BC at Langshisa Kharka.

  Team arrived Nepal 16 Oct, left for mountains 19 Oct, returned to KTM 10 Nov. Made base camp at Langshisa Kharka, a long way west of mountain, because of deep snow. Roith trekked alone to high point on Langtang Tsang Glacier and was stopped by very dangerous snow; had trekked relatively short distance up glacier and returned to BC same day and expedition abandoned climbing plans.

  Did no climbing. One member trekked to highest point, the closest he could get through deep snow.


expid: GYAC99301
peakid: GYAC
year: 1999
route1: N Face
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Andrej Stremfelj
sponsor: Slovenia Gyachung Kang
ascent1: 7th,8th
bcdate: 1999-09-29
smtdate: 1999-10-31
termdate: 1999-11-04
othersmts: Climbed Siguang Ri Shar and Siguang Ri (E Ridge)
accidents: Prezelj fell on 1st Nov; Jakofcic slightly frostbitten toes
achievment: 1st ascent of N Face in 1st attempt
agency: Wilderness Experience
campsites:
  BC(24/09,4650m),BC(04/10,5550m),ABC(26/10,5830m),Biv1(28/10,6800m),Biv2(30/10,7500m),Smt(31/10,01/11)

routememo:
  Biv 1 on North Face
  Biv 2 on North face.

  6th Oct from BC to point 6700m to acclimatize (1 day walk round trip). 9th started all together from BC to unclimbed Siguang Ri (6998m) and some to Siguang Ri (7309m). East Ridge ascent and South Face descent by Meglic while Navrsnik stopped 200m below top because cold traveresed South Face and both descended together. Siguang Ri summiter to Shar summit. Returned BC 12 Oct.

  15th all 8 to ABC but not slept there (back to ABC). Then bad weather with heavy snowfall 18-20th. 23rd to ABC to make trail and back to BC. 26th 4 to ABC to sleep intending to go Gyachang Kang North Face on 27th, but 2 got asphyxiation trouble from gas stove and all 4 to BC instead. 27th other 4 (Jacofcic, Meglic, Meznar and Navrsnik) to ABC and 28th started up North Face and biv at 6800m on North Face. 29th stayed in biv because of wind. 30th Meglic and Navrsnik down tired (no sleep for 2 nights because of wind noise) and Jakofcic and Meznar to 2nd biv 7500m and 31st to top and back to 7500m biv. 31st other 4 members joined there in 7500m biv. 1st Nov other 4 to top and back to biv at 7500m at 1:00 pm Chinese time (faster by 1-2 hours then 1st 4 members because 1st 4 had more problem with altitude and all 6 together down but only 4 to ABC because Meznar fell and others had to stop all in BC on 2nd Nov after rescuing Meznar. 3rd Nov yaks arrived at ABC. 

  * Prezelj on 1st Nov in descent fell and couldn't walk without one person on each side because had lost his balance - was bleeding from nose and other injuries. Can't remember to today his fall and on 2nd couldn't remember his last name nor do simple arithmetic.

  To first 50-60 degree snow slope and not difficult. Most difficult part was biv 1 to 2: this season mostly snow, but in a few parts mixed snow and rock and here snow conditions were poor, powdered snow. A traverse from last snow field to top, climbers expedition together but snow Ok. Ok to climb this face alpine-style, but traditional style with fixed camps would be very difficult.


expid: JANU99301
peakid: JANU
year: 1999
route1: N Face
nation: Uzbekistan
leaders: Oleg Grigoriev
sponsor: Jannu Himal Uzbekistan Expedition
countries: Russia
bcdate: 1999-09-11
smtdate: 1999-10-12
termdate: 1999-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to dangerous snow conditions
campsites: BC(11/09,4450m),ABC(16/09,5100m),C1(19/09,5400m),C2(05/10,6100m),C3(12/10,6500m),xxx(12/10,7000m)
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC  at Kumbhakarna Glacier northwest of summit
  ABC interim above glacier north of Summit near bottom of icefall
  C1  on North Face
  C2  on North Face
  C3  on North Face
  High point on North Face.

  12 Oct 4 members reached 7000m and stopped by avalanching. 13 Oct down to C1. On 15 Oct up to 6100m. 16th to C3 to bring down all gear.


expid: KTOK99301
peakid: KTOK
year: 1999
route1: E Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Miguel Angel Vidal Gonzalez
sponsor: Sotillo Adrada Sanga Kangtokal Expedition
ascent1: 4th
approach: Kakot on Barbung Khola over pass on N Ridge network->Ka Khola
bcdate: 1999-10-05
smtdate: 1999-10-11
smttime: 0930
termdate: 1999-10-12
campsites: BC(05/10,4500m),ABC(08/10,4700m),C1(10/10,5800m),Smt(11/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  above Kaya Khola
  ABC at normal Putha Hiunchuli BC
  C1  on East Ridge.

  9 Oct up to C1 site at 5100m and down to ABC. 10 Oct for C1 site for lunch and up to 5800m where actually slept in true C1. 11 Oct to top. Prieto also in C1 but only to 6000m to point East Ridge meets South Ridge and stopped (very tired). Vidal took 4 hours from 5800m to top at 9:30 am and slept that in night at ABC. Difficult mountain: wall of 50-degree ice climbing and with only one ice axe.


expid: KANG99301
peakid: KANG
year: 1999
route1: N Face (to 7300m)
route2: N Face-N Ridge (to 7700m)
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lim Hyung-Chil
sponsor: Korea Kangchenjunga Expedition
approach: By road->Jiri and helicopter Jiri->Ghunza
bcdate: 1999-08-26
smtdate: 1999-10-11
termdate: 1999-10-21
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to too much snow with avalanches and strong wind
campsites: BC(26/08,5140m),ABC(02/09,5550m),C2(04/09,6100m),C3(07/09,6800m),C4(03/10,7400m),xxx(11/10,7700m)
accidents: Fatal avalanche killing two
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at Pangpema river
  ABC at end of Pangpema Glacier
  C2  on North Face
  C3  on North Face
  C4  on North Ridge.

  1st summit bid to 7300m late (route North Face to 7300m) on 27th Sept by Lee Gil-Yeol and Lee In and bad weather coming, so BC (Lim) told them to descend. They reached 7300m and snow avalanche hit them, Ang Dawa Tamang and Kazi and carried three men down 400m - down to C3 same day. Kazi broken knee; Lee In forearm hurt, Ang Dawa cut hand. 23 Sept to BC being carried down and now all members and Sherpas in BC now. Changed route because many avalanches and waterfall in couloir. 

  New route North Face to North Ridge to 7700m on ridge and 3 Oct make C4 on ridge at 7400m. Again too much snow and down to C2 on 5th Oct. 9th Oct C2 to C4: stayed in C4 till 11 Oct try for C5 top but stop at 7700m because strong wind, cloudy and too late to continue and slept in C4. 12 Oct down to C2 and 13 Oct to BC. 16 Oct up from BC to C2 and sleep there till 18th afternoon. Too much snow and arrived C1 in waist-deep snow; arrived at 9:00 pm after avalanche buried some people but not hurt: couldn't find tents snow at C1 so had to biv. 19th Oct arrived BC and climb finished.

  * Han killed 14 Sept by avalanche at 6600m and journalist with film team was killed in same avalanche.


  BC-Nepal-Mountaineering
  Korean Climber dead in avalanche

     Kathmandu, Sept 17 (Reuters) - A South Korean mountaineer was killed on Sept 14 by a snow avalanche while climbing the world's third highest mountain, Kangchenjunga, in the Nepalese Himalaya, according to an announcement from Nepal's tourism ministry.
     Han Do-Kyu, a 34-year-old iron factory technician from Kwangyang, died in the avalanche at 10:30 am on the 14th when he was climbing at an altitude of 6600m on the southern slopes of Kanchenjunga.
     Kangchenjunga which is on Nepal's eastern border with India, is 8586 meters high.
     Another member of the '99 Korea Kangchenjunga Expedition, Kim Jong-Hwan, a Korean Broadcasting System television cameraman, was injured by the same avalanche, the ministry said.
      Kim was brought by helicopter from base camp to hospital in Kathmandu on Sept 15, the ministry said. He is 42 years old and is from Kwangmyong.
      Han was married with one son and one daughter. He was only the second Korean to die while climbing Kangchenjunga.
      The climbing team is lead by Lim Hyung-Chil from Kwangju, while television film team's leader is Kim Sung-Hwan from Seoul.


  YK Joung (Korean embassy) - 18 Sept 99

  KBS's Kim broke his hip and is in Teaching Hospital - home after few days?
  Another KBS man died on 14 Sept: Hyun Myeong-Kun, born 1968, in Seoul, KBS reporter on trekking permit to visit BC and not an experienced climber. Went up from BC after hearing news of avalanche. He died of altitude sickness same day his body also brought to KTM.

  YK Joung - 7 Nov 99 

  Hyun actually had been climbing with Han on 14 Sept and was killed by same avalanche. Had no permission from HMG or his leader to go above BC. He was married and wife pregnant.


expid: KGUR99302
peakid: KGUR
year: 1999
route1: NW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Gilles Buisson
sponsor: Atalante Kang Guru Expedition
ascent1: 17th
approach: Beshishahar->Koto->Nara
bcdate: 1999-10-19
smtdate: 1999-10-27
smttime: 1300
termdate: 1999-10-28
campsites: BC(19/10,4200m),C1(22/10,5300m),C2(26/10,5800m),Smt(27/10)
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  Oct 19 - BC all members
  Oct 20 - carried loads to C1 and back to BC. Next day rest.
  Oct 22 - fixed C1 by member Bouchard, Buisson, Challeat, Guillou, Hoen, 
           Jessup and Sevenier and 4 Sherpas
  Oct 23 - carried loads near to C2 by the same team
  Oct 24 - fixed C2 back to C1
  Oct 25 - rested in C1
  Oct 26 - C2 slept all members and 5 Sherpas
  Oct 27 - summit: started at 05:00 reached summit at 13:00 hrs - stayed 
           about 15 minutes (cold). Descended to C2 by 15:30 hours.
           Two sick members were descended to same day to BC.
           Snow condition was good. Good weather.

  Sherpas: Mingma, Pemba, Dawa Tsering, Ang Nima, Dandi

  Members returned to KTM on Nov 5, will leave Nepal on 8th, except Challeat who will be going for trek near Arun Valley with another group.


expid: KJRS99301
peakid: KJRS
year: 1999
route1: S Spur-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Thomas Wedgewood
sponsor: British Kanjiroba Expedition
ascent1: 6th,7th
approach: Jumla->Hurikot->Jagdula Khola (Tula Patta Khola)
bcdate: 1999-09-19
smtdate: 1999-09-26
termdate: 1999-10-04
campsites: BC(19/09,4200m),ABC(22/09,5200m),C1(25/09,5950m),Smt(26,28/09)
accidents: Lind frostbitten toe, but will heal
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  BC 
  ABC at glacier moraine south of South Face
  C1  at South Spur.

  2nd summit party including Poole to C1 only - because afterwards light snowfall so climbed at night. 3rd summit bid planned for 30 Sept, but all day continuous snowfall. 

  26 Sept party did round trip in 12 hours and 2 hours more to ABC. 28 Sept about 15 hours C1->top->C1. 

  Not very difficult (mostly 35-degree snowslope). To reach C1 300m 50-degree ice and above C1 one 40-ft vertical serac; fixed rope at both places (200m in first point and 250 at serac and others at 50+ degree slopes). Used first ropes at 2nd place also. Had to fix rope and build 3 bridges also in gorge of Jagdula Khola.

  Returned from BC by slightly different route.


expid: LHOT99301
peakid: LHOT
year: 1999
route1: S Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Jong-Bae
sponsor: Korea Lhotse South Face Himalaya Expedition
bcdate: 1999-09-13
smtdate: 1999-10-26
termdate: 1999-10-28
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to food and gear finished, winds and fatigue
campsites: BC(13/09,5200m),C1(17/09,5400m),C2(27/09,6100m),C3(22/10,6800m),C4(24/10,7200m),xxx(26/10,7700m)
agency: Sarang San Treks
routememo:
  BC at Lhotse Glacier (south of Lhotse)
  C1 on rock at top of Glacier
  C2 on ridged face.

  Unable to go above 7700m because food finished, everybody very tired and needed more gear (some gear disappeared by avalanche): ladders and pitons need to go up and one member's rucksack holding gear and clothes fell from his back and lost. Very strong wind (sounding like airplane) many days snowfall reduced number of days could climb. Some Sherpas went on strike because felt too dangerous. 5 Sherpas went to BC but only 2 climbed up from BC and all 5 and kitchen boy struck and left team; 2 new Sherpas arrived BC 22 Sept ("I don't understand why" first 5 left) says Hong, but these 2 also left with one having eye problem and fell sick 18 Oct.

  Some rock areas very difficult above C2 and above C2.

  Team had 3 experienced climbers: Hong Sung-Taek, Hong Seong-Ha and Ra; others were "support climbers."

  Expedition's liaison officer, Umesh Singh of Tourism Ministry mountaineering section, said 1 Nov 99: team members mostly young and inexperienced and ordered Sherpas to fix ropes for them where Sherpas said too dangerous to go up. Very bad relations between Koreans and Sherpas.

  * Hong Sung-Taek said Koreans doubt Russians or Slovene scaled South Face. Koreans found Soviet rope up to 7000m but none higher. Koreans followed Soviet route at beginning and stayed near to it higher up.


expid: MAKA99301
peakid: MAKA
year: 1999
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Park Young-Seok
sponsor: 99 Korean Expedition
countries: Poland
bcdate: 1999-10-09
smtdate: 1999-10-11
termdate: 1999-10-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to no equipment left after C1 in avalanche
othersmts: Climbed Xixabangma (central summit by Park and ?)
campsites: BC(09/10,5600m),C1(11/10,6500m),xxx(11/10,7200m)
accidents: Only fatal accident (Sange Sherpa fell to his death)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  BC at high BC (same expedition's ABC site)
  High point just below Makalu at 7400m.

  Much snow - fixed ropes to 7200m on 11 Oct when Sange slipped at 2:00-3:00 pm and climb stopped. Slipped 100m hanging on rope - rock broke his head. Others with him brought body to C1: up on 13th and found C1 tent with body blown into crevasse. On 15th again up to C1, close to crevasse but too windy to bring out body: finally got it out on 15th and to BC, 16th down for cremation. On 18th return BC 24th through very deep snow. 26th some members to go to C1 by one km high avalanche removed C1. Again to C1 site but no equipment left and climb finished.

  Hoping to find funding for Makalu again in spring 2000.


expid: MANA99304
peakid: MANA
year: 1999
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Jose Santos Chaverri
sponsor: Aragon Manaslu Expedition
countries: Georgia
bcdate: 1999-09-10
smtdate: 1999-10-17
termdate: 1999-10-21
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(10/09,4700m),C1(14/09,5750m),C2(28/09,6700m),xxx(17/10,7400m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  High point at C3 site.

  At North Col made deposit of gear on 17 Oct and fixed rope to C3 site and back to BC because wind col and snowfall. At BC always 60 cm snow. Never again up because weather continued to be bad. Subias climbing up from C1 in couloir at 6100m and twist of his knee on 12 Oct and very difficult to get down with help from other Spanish team and this team's cook. 29 Sept-8 Oct continuous snowfall and later in Oct for 4 days.


expid: MANA99401
peakid: MANA
year: 1999
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Koichi Ezaki
sponsor: Sapporo Alpine Association Manaslu North Expedition 1999
bcdate: 1999-11-20
smtdate: 1999-12-18
termdate: 1999-12-22
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to strong winds, extreme cold, lack of time
campsites: BC(20/11,4700m),ABC(24/11,5400m),C1(02/12,6100m),C2(07/12,6800m),xxx(18/12,7300m)
accidents: Osaka slightly frostbitten fingers
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  High point at snow face.

  8th Dec down to BC because of fierce get stream winds. Up 12th Dec to ABC; 13th to C1; 14th to C2. 15-18th make route above C2 to 7200m and then abandoned because no more time left. Not difficult technically; between -40 degrees in C2 and strong winds the problem.


expid: MANA99402
peakid: MANA
year: 1999
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Hideji Nazuka
sponsor: Japan Gunma Winter Manaslu Expedition
approach: By helicopter->Samagaon
bcdate: 1999-12-21
smtdate: 2000-01-04
termdate: 2000-01-24
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to snow, wind and clouds
campsites: BC(21/12,4700m),C1(01/01,5600m),C2(02/01,6250m),xxx(04/01,7100m)
agency: Himalayan Culture Treks
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 as same as others
  C2 at above Naike Col
  High point at C3 site below NE Ridge on NE Face.

  Deposited gear at C3 site (7100m) on 4 Jan and planned occupy it on 5th; hot wind sent them down instead. Tried to reach C3 but cloudy weather and 7th wind sent back to C2 without getting to C3. 8th Jan down to BC from C2. Now snow fell for 7 days. Up again 17th to C1; 18th up little distance and back to C1; 19th brought more rope and ice to C1; 20th down for C1 to BC and climb finished. Now again snow falling so 23rd decided to abandon climb without retrieving gear at C2 and C3 sites. All members reached C1.


expid: MANA99403
peakid: MANA
year: 1999
route1: NE Face
nation: Denmark
leaders: Michael Strynoe
sponsor: Himalaya 2000 to Manaslu
bcdate: 1999-12-03
smtdate: 1999-12-19
termdate: 2000-01-05
termnote: Abandoned at 7350m due to cold winds and disappointment with staff
campsites: BC(03/12,4750m),ABC(12/12,5700m),C1(15/12,6200m),C2(16/12,6000m),xxx(19/12,7350m)
agency: Gurkha's Encounter Adventure Overland
routememo:
  Spent 3 nights in C2 to extend fixed ropes place by Japanese to 50m below C3 (to 7350m) and down on 19th to C1 because tired. Had too much of equipment and kerosene and clothes; fixed on things instead of efficiently climbing; lack of experience. Promoted kitchen boy to sirdar who had no climbing experience. 20th to BC. Up on 25th ABC, 26th to C1 and 27th C2; 29th up 7300m but former kitchen boy refused to go higher because 8 fingers frostbitten (slightly) and returned to C2. Gave up that day because cold and irrational anger with Gurung and even with Na Temba. Returned to BC 1st Jan and waited for Na Temba to clear camps.


expid: MANA99404
peakid: MANA
year: 1999
route1: NE Face
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Bart Vos
sponsor: Dutch Manaslu Expedition
bcdate: 1999-12-07
smtdate: 1999-12-30
termdate: 2000-01-04
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to cold and winds
campsites: BC(07/12,4750m),ABC(14/12,5700m),C1(26/12,6200m),C2(27/12,6600m),xxx(30/12,7000m)
agency: Trekking International
routememo:
  BC  at normal site
  ABC above Naike Col
  C1  not a fixed camp
  C2  at tent up from C2 (shared with Strynoe) below North Col.

  On 30 Dec, down to C2 because too cold (-42 degrees in tent that night) and because strong wind (too strong to stand upright). Stayed in C2 31st Dec night also but no weather improvement and Dutch meterology institute said by telephone that just stream would stay low for next 10 days at least (and on 5th Jan clouds comes in).

  I liked the new experience of climbing in winter - snow conditions is good and little now snowfall, avalanching not a great danger. It's cold but "that's manageable."


expid: NILS99301
peakid: NILS
year: 1999
route1: S Face of SW Ridge-SW Ridge
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Tadej Golob
sponsor: Slovenian Nilgiri South Expedition
bcdate: 1999-10-06
smtdate: 1999-10-17
termdate: 1999-10-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to bad weather and slight frostbite
campsites: BC(06/10,4100m),ABC(08/10,5000m),xxx(17/10,6600m)
accidents: Slight frostbite Golob and Kovac; other member's slight illnesses
achievment: 1st attempt of S Face
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC  south of Nilgiri South
  ABC at end of Glacier and start of steep climbing
  High point at SW Ridge.

  Central part of South Face too dangerous from falling rock and ice, so changed route to South Face of SW Ridge. From ABC made no more camps but tried to reach top in one push. Did not go up on 9th because clouds over Annapurna suggested bad weather so instead down to BC. Back to ABC by 4 members on 11 Oct. Started up at 12:30 am of 12th and reached ridge, but in darkness climbed wrong couloir and rock of ridge too difficult, so back to BC on 12th. 16th Kovac and Golob up again while Flis and Lacen left same day because not well. Kovac and Golob to ABC 16th  evening and route up 4:30 am and reached ridge at 12:00 at 6100m. From there followed ridge to 6600m at 2:30 pm when strong winds, fog and falling snow meant could not see and snow conditions on ridge difficult, so down and arrived ABC at 11:00 pm. Now stove not working so nothing to drink. Left only 4 pitons on South Face in descent. Did not make another summit bid because got slightly frostbitten fingers. Had slightly underestimated mountain and equipment needed in cold temperature (better gloves and boots needed).


expid: PUMO99302
peakid: PUMO
year: 1999
route1: SE Ridge-S Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Tim Rippel
sponsor: Canadian Pumori Expedition
countries: Norway, UK
bcdate: 1999-10-05
smtdate: 1999-10-14
termdate: 1999-10-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6180m due to dangerous snow conditions
campsites: BC(05/10,08,5290m),ABC(11/10,5700m),C1(13/10,6100m),xxx(14/10,6180m)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at normal site
  ABC approaching SE Ridge near point 5730m
  C1  at col on SE Ridge which starts at Kalapattar
  High point at C1 where SE and SW Ridges met to make South Ridge.

  14 Oct, nine members (not Clayton and Lawton) climbed to 6180m on South Ridge and then down to BC to rest on 15th. On 17th weather changing and winds and snowfall from 18th to 21st with lots of new snow, making wind slabs on mountain. Climb called off on 20th.


expid: PUMO99303
peakid: PUMO
year: 1999
route1: SE Ridge-S Ridge
nation: Norway
leaders: Jonas Lie-Nielsen
sponsor: Norwegian Pumori Expedition 1999
bcdate: 1999-10-04
smtdate: 1999-10-16
termdate: 1999-10-23
termnote: Abandoned at 6250m due to dangerous snow conditions
campsites: BC(04/10,5300m),ABC(07/10,5600m),C1(11/10,6150m),xxx(16/10,6250m)
agency: Adventure Third Pole
routememo:
  BC below small lake beyond Gorak Shep
  C1 above point 6186m on National Geo map where SE and SW Ridges merge South Ridge.

  15th Oct to BC to rest. Rotated 2-man teams up from BC and all got to C1 and route had been fixed to C1. Canadians and Norwegians to fix from C1 to C2, but heavy snowfall started 17th, so all down to BC by 18th and climbing finished because now too dangerous to continue.


expid: PUMO99304
peakid: PUMO
year: 1999
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Henry Todd
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Pumori South Ridge Expedition
countries: Australia, Canada, France, Germany, New Zealand, USA
bcdate: 1999-10-18
smtdate: 1999-10-18
termdate: 1999-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 5300m due to snow and avalanche conditions
campsites: BC(18/10,5300m),xxx(5300m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Arrived at BC, 3 days snow, abandoned expedition. Most of the members did not arrive at BC. There were 20 members, but only 6 arrived at BC:

  1.  Henry Todd
  2.  Russell Brice
  3.  Ms. Helga Hengge
  4.  Andrew Lapkass
  5.  Simon Yates
  6.  Jen-Tseh Chang


expid: RAKS99301
peakid: RAKS
year: 1999
route1: E Ridge-E Face of N-S Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Hubert Fritzenwallner
sponsor: American Raksha Urai Expedition 1999
countries: Germany
approach: Seti River->Duhachaur into Saipal village
bcdate: 1999-10-11
smtdate: 1999-10-20
termdate: 1999-10-26
termnote: Abandoned at 5950m due to falling ice and loose stones
campsites: BC(11/10,4700m),C1(12/10,5000m),xxx(20/10,5950m)
agency: Pleasure
routememo:
  BC at Dhaulkar Khola
  C1 at top of short East Ridge of Point 6349 on Japanese map
  High point at top on icewall where loose rock was covered by powder.

  From C1 turned to northwest to huge glacier-icefall; went through glacier, which had little snow on it, and not into icefall. Intended to make C2 at upper part of glacier but too dangerous from falling ice. On 20 Oct intended to go to top from C1 but stopped by loose stones covered by 30 cm of powder snow above ice wall. Unable to fix rope and for every step up, whole step back so returned to C1 and BC next day and climb finished. All summits of Raksha Urai are very difficult. All members reached C1.


expid: TENG99301
peakid: TENG
year: 1999
route1: SW Ridge-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Jamie McGuinness
sponsor: Explore Himalaya Three Peaks Expedition
ascent1: 3rd,4th
countries: Denmark, France, New Zealand
bcdate: 1999-10-28
smtdate: 1999-10-29
termdate: 1999-11-07
campsites: BC(25/10,4600m),BC(28/10,5320m),Smt(29-30/10)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  BC at small ridge on SSW Ridge.

  28th team McGuinness, Palsmeier, Koppelman, Nielsen, Renard and Pasang from Lhonak to high camp (aka BC) while Alford, Schone and Haun, Tenzing to Pangpema for Tengkoma, to high camp 29th while first Team A summited and returned to camp on 29th and 30th to Lhonak. 

  * Route on Tengkoma was SSW Ridge, or "essentially South Ridge" to NE Ridge, same as Doug Scott's British team in Aut '98. Team A tried after summiting Tengkoma to climb unnamed peak, but in 2 days trekking did not reach BC site because it was "rugged" underfoot, very cold and stove not working; returned to Lhonak on 31st.

  Had permits for Drohmo and Ramtang but made no attempt to climb them.


expid: TILI99301
peakid: TILI
year: 1999
route1: N Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Gilles Marcaud
sponsor: French Tilicho Expedition
approach: Jomsom->Mesokanto 5400m Pass on the right side
bcdate: 1999-10-09
smtdate: 1999-10-17
termdate: 1999-10-25
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to too much snow
campsites: BC(09/10,4950m),C1(11/10,5800m),C2(14/10,6300m),xxx(17/10,7000m)
agency: Tip & Top Trekking
routememo:
  BC 50m above the lake.

  Fixed C1 on Oct 11 by Cauchy amd two Sherpas and down to BC. On 13th all members stayed at C1 except Sherpas. On 16th six members slept at C1. On 14th three members and three Sherpas fixed C2 and stayed there. On 17th Cauchy and Sherpas attempted summit around 11:30 hours then realized shortage of ropes. Down to BC on 18th all were at BC. Snow fell whole day of 19th. Again on 20th went up to check C1 and got down to BC. 21st was sunny day and rest at BC. 

  Second attempt on 22nd planned to reach C2 by leader and Cauchy but due to fresh snow they could reach to C1 only and returned to BC as the camp was broken.

  Third attempt on 24th by Cauchy and Geloen. They left BC at 23:00 hours (11 pm) reached C2 at 06:00 hours. Tried for summit together with the French who were at C2. They could reach up to 6600m only, then they gave up.

  - Domard had to leave BC on 14th due to dislocation of his right arm on
    Oct 1st on the trail to BC.
  - Rouys left BC on 17th happily - it was enough for him to be at BC.
  - Chetalle, Duperrex, Paumier & Raymond left BC on 24th to walk down to Pokhara.
  - Rest of the members together arrived KTM on 28th, will leave Nepal on 31st.
  - Marcaud will leave on Nov 7. He is waiting baggages to come. He may be staying 
    with Lhakpa (Tip Top).


expid: TILI99302
peakid: TILI
year: 1999
route1: NE Spur-N Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Philippe Grenier
sponsor: Terres d'Adventure Tilicho Expedition
ascent1: 24th
approach: Jomsom/Marpha/Dhumpus 4800m/Marpha/Mesokanto (left side BC)
bcdate: 1999-10-17
smtdate: 1999-10-28
smttime: 1030
termdate: 1999-10-31
campsites: BC(17/10,4900m),C1(19/10,5800m),C2(23/10,6200m),Smt(28/10)
agency: Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
routememo:
  BC at lake side
  C1 at same place of Marcaud Expedition Camp
  C2 at tent left by Marcaud.

  Oct 17 - fixed BC. Next day rest.
  Oct 19 - put up C1 with 7 or 8 members and 5 Sherpas. Went up to C2 
           & left luggages in the tent left by Marcaud expedition and back
           to BC. Bad weather, snowfall on 20 and 21 (about 30 cm)
  Oct 22 - spend night in C1: members Cabanal, Carlier, De Fouchier, 
           Kermarrel, Levoir, Merle, Roux and leader
  Oct 23 - spend night in C2 by leader and 4 Sherpas
  Oct 24 - fixed ropes upto 6700m and returned to BC. Next day rest.
  Oct 26 - Group of 11 to C1 spent night.
  Oct 27 - Spent night in C2 by all - leader and other members and 5 
           Sherpas reached C2 from BC.
  Oct 28 - start at 05:00 hrs. First group of leader, one member De Fouchier 
           and two Sherpas (Tshering & Mingma) reached summit around 
           10:30 hours. About an hour later members Cholat-Namy, Levoir 
           and Vivien reached summit. Last group of rest of members and 
           Sherpas (Nima and Pemba) followed to top.


expid: SAIP53301
peakid: SAIP
year: 1953
route1: S side
nation: Austria
leaders: Herbert Tichy
termnote: Lack of supplies and time (December)
primid: GHYM53301
othersmts:
  Climbed Ghyuthumba Main (GHYM-533-01), Dong Mar, Dudh Kundali (DUDH-533-01), Milchberg Peak and Thorungse Dong Mar (all 1st ascents); recon Patrasi Himal (PATR-533-01)


expid: CHOP54101
peakid: CHOP
year: 1954
route1: N Ridge from E
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Edmund Hillary
sponsor: New Zealand Alpine Club Barun Valley Expedition
smtdate: 1954-06-03
termnote: Abandoned below summit due to poor visibility
campsites: xxx(03/06,6600m?)
primid: BARU54101
othersmts:
  Climbed Baruntse (BARU-541-01), Pethangtse (PETH-541-01), Pethangtse East (PTHE-541-01), Chago (CHAG-541-01) and Nau Lekh (NAUL-541-01) (all 1st ascents); attempted Makalu II (MAK2-541-01); recon Makalu (MAKA-541-02)

routememo:
  Notes by Elizabeth Hawley, July 2000

  Sir Edmund Hillary led a team from the New Zealand Alpine Club in the spring of 1954 to a group of Nepalese mountains around the Barun Valley east of Khumbu and west of Makalu. The team of ten members consisted of eight New Zealanders and two Britons. Amongst the peaks they went to was Baruntse, to which they gave this name since they could discover no existing name. 

  According to Hillary's 1956 book about the expedition, East of Everest, (pgs 60-61), one New Zealand member of the expedition, Norman Hardie, went on June 3 to a peak they were told by local people was called Cho Polu, and, Hardie reported to Hillary, Hardie and Urkien Sherpa "climbed the large domed ice peak, 22,060 ft (nearly 6900m) to the south [of the col from which they had started this climb ... The ridge had a variety of ice, snow, rock and cornice, and the climb of a little more than two thousand feet took about four hours. By the time we were on the summit, clouds had obscured what should be a very good view." They had some difficulty with the route down but returned safely to the glacier at the foot of the mountain the same evening.

  Years later, I asked Hardie for more details of the climb, and he said that they had not actually climbed Cho Polu, but had been on a different nearby peak. He did not know its name, if any.


  Norman Hardie - 12 Feb 1982

  From letter to Elizabeth Hawley:

  On 3rd June 1954, Urkien and I, from the col north of Cho Polu climbed along the mixed rock and snow ridge, in cold damp snow and poor visibiliy. We went for a long time and then came to a snow peak in thick cloud. Here we paused in the cold, and went back to our camp as fast as possible in miserable conditions.

  I believed we had climbed Cho Polu, and wrote accordingly in the N. Z. Alpine Journal of that year. We then crossed the col to the north and descended to the Imja.

  In June 1956 I began plotting all the survey work done in the Barun and Hongu. Many hundreds of photographs were enlarged to a definite scale and I had lots of survey bearings and notes. In a photograph taken by one of the others I saw a snow bump, not the summit, and at that late stage I got the impression that this was what we had climbed.

  Back again in 1960, from the Imja, I looked carefully at Cho Polu, in clear conditions, and I now think we did not climb it in 1954, although we had completed all the difficult sections - and there were in fact few difficulties.

  If you are writing historical notes I prefer you to be brief and state something like - partial ascent from north in poor visibility, summit not reached.


expid: LAMJ67101
peakid: LAMJ
year: 1967
route1: E Face
nation: W Germany
leaders: Helmut Scharschinger
sponsor: W German Lamjung Himal Expedition 1967
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to hard blue ice
othersmts: Climbed Banyang Peak (1st ascent), East Lamjung Pinnacle and Charim Kokero (in Ganesh Himal)
campsites: BC(3500m),C1(4250m),C2(5050m),Biv,xxx(5900m)
routememo:
  Scharschinger and Lammerer abandoned their attempt at 5900m due to hard blue ice which would have needed a few hundred meters of fixed rope to overcome (they only had 30m with them and 2 ice screws).


expid: AMAD00101
peakid: AMAD
year: 2000
route1: NE Spur-N Ridge up; SW Ridge down
nation: New Zealand
leaders: David Crofts
sponsor: New Zealand Ama Dablam Expedition 2000
ascent1: 310
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2000-04-15
smtdate: 2000-05-04
smttime: 1115
termdate: 2000-05-06
accidents: Moore frostnip of one foot
agency: Nepal Sanctuary Treks
campsites:
  BC(15/04,5150m),C1(28/04,5850m),Biv1(29/04,5900m),Biv2(30/04,6100m),Biv3(01/05,6250m),Biv4(02/05,6400m),Biv5(03/05,6550m),Biv6(04-05/05,7500m),Smt(04/05)

routememo:
  BC  on northeast side on moraine beach on Ama Dablam Glacier 10 min below NE Spur
  C1  on North Ridge at junction with NE Spur
  Biv 1 at Australians "Captain's Crunch" ledge
  Biv 2 on West Ridge
  Biv 3 on North Ridge
  Biv 4 on North Ridge
  Biv 5 on summit snowfield
  Biv 6 on SW Ridge.

  6th May returned to North Ridge BC. Ascent difficult in its grade of climbing on ice, rock and mixed terrain, but all good quality and was "a pleasure." Descent by SW Ridge, not difficult, but unnerving having to rely on quality of other peoples fixed rope.


expid: AMAD00102
peakid: AMAD
year: 2000
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Vladimir Prokopenko
sponsor: Siberian Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 311
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2000-04-23
smtdate: 2000-05-05
smttime: 1700
termdate: 2000-05-09
campsites: BC(23/04,4500m),ABC(29/04,5500m),C1(30/04,5800m),C2(01/05,6200m),Smt(05/05)
accidents: Prokopenko all fingers frostbitten badly
achievment: 1st Russian woman to summit
routememo:
  3 May tried to reach top but difficult hard ice and had to take time to ascend with fixing short ropes, removing them and reusing above. Reached about 6500m and realized could not make top that day, so returned to C3 and stayed there 4th night also. 5th May left C3 6:30 am and got to top at 5:00 pm; slept in C3 5-6th. 7th slept in C2, C1 and BC (members scattered). Had used other team's ropes below C3 and this made climb faster. If no such ropes available maybe not to top.


expid: AMAD00103
peakid: AMAD
year: 2000
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Theo Fritsche
sponsor: Austrian Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 312
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2000-05-01
smtdate: 2000-05-15
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2000-05-18
campsites: BC(01/05,4400m),C1(11/05,5500m),C2(14/05,5800m),Smt(15/05)
accidents: Mrs Leane Amann got flu
agency: High Country Trekking
routememo:
  Later in arriving at C1 to rescue frostbitten Russian. Started for top from C2 at 4:30 am, on top Frische at 10:30 am, Duenser 10:50 am, W. Amann at 11:00 am; all on top together and down together. 

  On traverse between C2 and C3 from middle of Yellow Tower to the ridge there were at least 10 different ropes, mostly old ones.


expid: AMAD00105
peakid: AMAD
year: 2000
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Xavier Gonzalez
sponsor: Catalonia Expedition Ama Dablam 2000
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2000-04-11
smtdate: 2000-04-19
termdate: 2000-04-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to difficulty of route and no longer enjoyable
campsites: BC(11/04,4500m),C1(13/04,5470m),C2(16/04,6000m),C3(19/04,6300m),xxx(19/04,6300m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C3 above mushroom
  High point at C3.

  Above C3 difficult with snowfall every afternoon and wind work on mountain dry from winter, now loose snow on rock and ice covered rock. Not above C3 and after one night in C3, went down and climb finished. Best climbers Gonzalez and Lopez now very tired and not enjoyable waiting for ropes to be fixed (needed ropes because carrying paragliders up, very heavy). Blue ice on ridge above C3.


expid: AMAD00106
peakid: AMAD
year: 2000
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Sweden
leaders: Mikael Sigfrid Karlsson
sponsor: Swedish Ama Dablam Expedition 2000
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2000-04-28
smtdate: 2000-05-01
termdate: 2000-05-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to expected bad weather
campsites: BC(28/04,4500m),C1(30/04),C2(01/05,6200m),xxx(01/05,6200m)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  BC at same as others
  C1 at same as others
  C2 as same as others.

  Went quickly up to C2 as was very fit from trekking first, spent 2 nights in C2, but then came down because it looked like bad weather moving in.


expid: AMAD00107
peakid: AMAD
year: 2000
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Rudy Buccella
countries: Spain
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2000-05-09
smtdate: 2000-05-21
termdate: 2000-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to deep snow and had no time to attempt again
campsites: BC(09/05,4600m),C1(14/05,5700m),C2(15/05,5900m),xxx(21/05,6400m)
agency: Numbur Himal Treks
routememo:
  C1 at beginning of the ridge
  High point after the hanging glacier.

  Buccella, Cavallaro and two Sherpas reached the highest point. They started from C2 at 4:30 am of 21st May and reached the height of 6400m at 10:30 am, 21st May. They had to turn around because it was heavily snowing.

  Feijoo and Ogliengo left BC early.

  Used fixed rope from C1 to C2 which was being fixed by previous group.


expid: AMAD00108
peakid: AMAD
year: 2000
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Jeffrey Clapp
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2000-04-17
smtdate: 2000-04-26
termdate: 2000-04-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to exhaustion, headache and route very bad
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(17/04,4600m),C1(21/04,5700m),C2(22/04,6000m),xxx(26/04,6200m)
agency: Nima & Neema Treks
routememo:
  High point at 6200m at "gray tower" below C2 site.

  22 April night bad storm and 23 April to BC. 25th to C2 and there 26th wanted to go to C3 but had bad headache. Nima Tashi went on 25th to Clapp, got severe headache too, so down to BC. Both exhausted, now climb finished.


expid: AMAD00109
peakid: AMAD
year: 2000
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dave Penny
sponsor: Colorado Ama Dablam 2000 Expedition
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2000-04-13
smtdate: 2000-04-25
termdate: 2000-04-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to snow conditions on ridge and mild illness
campsites: BC(13/04,4500m),ABC(16/04,5200m),C1(19/04,5800m),C2(22/04,6100m),C3(25/04,6400m),xxx(25/04,6400m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site.

  26 April descended from C3 because lot of new snow on ridge and some members had stomach problems. Spitzer could not go higher because not in good health now. Penny and Spitzer went down to BC in 26th and climb finished.


expid: AMAD00110
peakid: AMAD
year: 2000
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Pasquale Scaturro
sponsor: 2000 Ama Dablam NFB (National Federation of the Blind)
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2000-04-01
smtdate: 2000-04-14
termdate: 2000-04-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6280m due to snowstorm
campsites: BC(04/01/04),ABC(06/04,5480m),C1(06/04,5800m),C2(09/04,6000m),xxx(14/04,6280m)
accidents: Alexander fell with loose boulder but only bruises but developed pulmonary edema
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC  at normal site
  ABC just below boulder field (2 members only)
  C1  at normal site
  High point at base of snow slope of grey tower.

  Yak camp occupied one night only by blind Weihenmayer and Gipe because Erik wanted to tackle boulder field in good condition in morning. High point on 14th on way to establish C3, but turned back because snowstorm and down to C2. Tried to go down that day, but white-out drove them back to C3. Big struggle to get all people and gear down mountain in "epic 2 days." Erik Weihenmayer (blind) jummaring descent in 12 hours. Did all rope fixing while others stayed below waiting for their team to do the job for them. "2 weeks of real hardwork." Schedule did not permit long wait for better weather and Erik not willing to go up again once he was down in BC.

  Erik: doesn't need constant company on ice climbing and rock climbing same, but mixed climbing and traversing and snow slopes need some one near to give information including tapping rock and wearing bells in snow slope but no touching. Everest in Spring 91 with acclimatization on mountain slowly with Scaturro leading with C5. Climbed because I enjoy adventure, you learn about yourself and "outside world." Climbing to prove blind can do it "is shallow." No timetable but wants all 7 summits and goes to Carstensz Pyramid Autumn 2000 and Everest Spring 2001.


expid: AMAD00111
peakid: AMAD
year: 2000
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Mexico
leaders: Pablo Juarez
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2000-03-29
smtdate: 2000-04-11
termdate: 2000-04-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(29/03,4500m),ABC(31/03,5100m),C1(04/04,5800m),C2(09/04,6100m),xxx(11/04,6200m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC with other teams
  High point at C2 site.

  10th April tried to go to C3 but had to make biv 6200m and 11th reached C3 site at 6200m, but had left tents later in biv in hope to push to top. But couldn't go all way to top because started snowing so slept in biv again and 12th down to BC. Climb finished with bad weather and lost too much time fixing American's rope, which Pedro needed (not capable climber) and others for emergency descent.


expid: AMAD00112
peakid: AMAD
year: 2000
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Ron Matous
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2000-04-09
smtdate: 2000-04-23
termdate: 2000-04-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to lack of time
campsites: BC(09/04,4600m),C1(17/04,5500m),C2(23/04,6000m),xxx(23/04,6400m)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 lower than normal site just below boulder field
  C2 at normal on Yellow Tower
  High point at SW Ridge.

  Matous and Kennedy reached C2 on 23rd, Matous down but Kennedy stayed in C2 with their 2 "Sherpas" who went on to high point same day. 24th sat in C2 and with storm night of 24th and all day that called for summit on 26th and no time left to go back up.


expid: AMAD00104
peakid: AMAD
year: 2000
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Matt Fioretti
sponsor: American Ama Dablam Expedition 2000
countries: UK
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2000-04-02
smtdate: 2000-04-19
termdate: 2000-04-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to impossible conditions above
campsites: BC(02/04,4500m),ABC(05/04,5200m),C1(08/04,5500m),xxx(19/04,6000m)
accidents: Fioretti got serious upper respiratory infection
agency: Karnali Excursions
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C2 at normal site on top of the ridge
  High point just below normal C3 on ridge.

  Did not sleep in C2 where not much room, so carried some gear there and tried to bypass it. Turned back at 6000m because of the loose snow over granite which turned back others too. Team then reached highest point, slept in C1 on 19th.


expid: AMAD85303
peakid: AMAD
year: 1985
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Wolfgang Nairz
ascent1: 40th
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1985-10-25
smtdate: 1985-10-31
campsites: BC(25/10,4550m),C1(27/10,5400m),C2(30/10,6050m),Smt(31/10)
accidents: Venier had acclimatization problems and did not go above C1
routememo:
  BC at usual site
  C1 at moraine (this autumn covered in snow)
  C2 on ridge's steep rock.

  "No problems." Summit wall very deep snow like sugar, difficult climb requiring fixed rope from C2 to 6450m. Completely clear weather: could see from Dhaulagiri to Kangchenjunga from summit.

  (Upper part of mountain totally fixed with ropes by recent expeditions so not climbing, just jumarring, said Aprin of US expedition about this route).


expid: AMAD99304
peakid: AMAD
year: 1999
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Norway
leaders: Karl Ronstad
sponsor: Norwegian Ama Dablam Expedition 1999
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1999-10-01
smtdate: 1999-10-16
termdate: 1999-10-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6670m due to heavy snow and bad weather
campsites: BC(01/10,4550m),ABC(03/10,5300m),C1(05/10,5800m),C2(08/10,6000m),C3(12/10,6300m),xxx(16/10,6670m)
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC  at usual site
  ABC on the ridge
  C1  at the beginning of ridge
  C2  at top of Yellow Tower
  C3  beneath the Dablam.

  All members reached C2. Six members to C3. They had to abandon due to heavy snow and other reason as told was shortage of their own ropes. This they consider as their bad luck.

  The German team agreed to allow them to share their ropes and had planned to attempt the summit together on the 17th. But the Germans had to retreat due to a very sick member. They did not leave their ropes; they even took off some of the ropes fixed over the col. The team feels betrayal by the Germans. Earlier the German team told them that any team using their fixed ropes had to pay money. The Norwegians had a very bad experience with the attitude of Germans - talking to charge money for every bit of cooperation. The team leader said probably they would complain to the German Alpine Club about this non-cooperative attitude in the mountain. The Germans also had lied to them saying that the major portion of fixed ropes between C1-C3 belongs to them. Later they realized that the ropes were fixed by the Swiss expedition.

  The Swiss, French and Spanish expedition teams were very cooperative. The sirdar Tashi Tshering, as told by the leader is 7-time summiteer of Everest - very good and efficient. It was his first time to work as sirdar.

  The team arrived Kathmandu on the morning of 23rd and will be leaving on 25 and 26 Oct.


expid: ANN100101
peakid: ANN1
year: 2000
route1: N Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Felix Inurrategi
bcdate: 2000-05-02
smtdate: 2000-05-03
termdate: 2000-05-06
termnote: Abandoned at 5500m due to serac barrier
campsites: BC(02/05,4800m),xxx(03/05,5500m)
agency: Sea to Summit Trekking
routememo:
  High point at North Face.

  3 May two brothers climbed for 3-1/2 hours above BC to site of most expedition's C2 at 5500m and found there route was broken by serac barrier 30 meters high dangerously exposed to avalanche chute above. It would take perhaps 7 hours at least instead of normal 20 minutes to surmount barrier, so danger too great and thus back to BC for lunch.


expid: ANN100102
peakid: ANN1
year: 2000
route1: N Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Josep Pujante
sponsor: Annapurna Royal Expedition
countries: Turkey
bcdate: 2000-04-11
smtdate: 2000-04-29
termdate: 2000-05-06
termnote: Abandoned at 5550m due avalanche danger
campsites: BC(11/04,4355m),C1(12/04,5000m),C2(18/04,5500m),xxx(29/04,5550m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Ang Rita Treks
routememo:
  BC same as others
  C1 at beginning of glacier
  C2 on glacier near big serac
  High point at bottom of face still on glacier.

  C2 very dangerous from falling seracs and snow avalanches. From C2 went east to look for good line up the face, but all of the face very dangerous and thus abandoned attempt and gave up any ideas of any route. Snow and wind, every day snowfalling. Very big avalanches, biggest Pujante had ever seen.


expid: ANN100103
peakid: ANN1
year: 2000
route1: N Face
nation: France
leaders: Thierry Bolo
sponsor: Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne (GMHM)
bcdate: 2000-04-18
smtdate: 2000-04-22
termnote: Abandoned at 5200m due to widespread avalanche danger
campsites: BC(18/04,4300,),C1(21/04,5000m),xxx(22/04,5200m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site for North Face
  C1 at normal site just below glacier on moraine
  High point on glacier.

  After learning about Viesturs party and Spaniards expedition and observations, French decided too dangerous to proceed. Ice and snow avalanches down all possible climbing routes on this North Face.

  All members went to 5200m over 2 days.


expid: ANN100104
peakid: ANN1
year: 2000
route1: N Face
nation: USA
leaders: Edmund Viesturs
sponsor: International Annapurna Expedition
countries: Canada, Finland
bcdate: 2000-04-08
smtdate: 2000-04-15
termdate: 2000-04-25
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to extreme avalanche danger
campsites: BC(08/04,4000m),C1(11/04,5000m),C2(13/04,5800m),xxx(15/04,5900m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal side
  C2 just west of French 1950 route
  High point at North Face just above C2.

  4-5 days after evacuating C2 huge avalanche threw snow on C1 and covered entire route in big area with big ice blocks. 15th April went 100m above C2 to look at route above and decided too big a danger of avalanching to be acceptable and went down to BC that day. Hoped to see feasible alternative route to the east but when biggest avalanche any of this team had ever seen by far came, they abandoned any idea of any route on North Face. Want to go back to North Face?: "No" emphatically said Viesturs and others. [There is] not a line that is not threatened by seracs: very different from pictures of 1950 French climb. Viesturs wants to go back to Annapurna, perhaps by Messner route on North Face in spring 1985 which is probably safest route on this mountain.


expid: ANN184304
peakid: ANN1
year: 1984
route1: S Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Nil Bohigas Martorell
sponsor: Annapurna South Face Expedition
approach: Pokhara->Modi Khola->Annapurna Sanctuary
bcdate: 1984-08-15
smtdate: 1984-10-03
termdate: 1984-10-10
termnote: Success only on middle summit, not main summit
othersmts: Climbed Annapurna I Middle Smt (ANNM-843-01)
primid: ANNM84301
campsites:
  BC(15/08,4200m),ABC(27/09,5600m),Biv1(27/09,5800m),Biv2(28/09,7100m),Biv3(29/09,7250m),Biv4(30/09,7400m),Biv5(01/10,7600m),Biv6(02/10,7800m),Biv7(03/10,8051m),Middle-Smt(03/10,8051m)

routememo:
  BC at South of Fluted Peak on grass bottom of face MacIntyre camp.

  Started actual climb 27 Sept when left BC for ABC. Next climb was 18 hours ("all night and little morning") surmounting dangerous rock-avalanche area to biv at 7100m. To 7250m biv took all day artificial climbing, very difficult steep section of broken rock where 1 man fell twice and other one once. From 7600m to 7800m again rock which was very steep but "very nice to climb," not rotten. Reached Middle Summit on 3 Oct and slept in 7800m biv. 4th Oct descended all way to 5600m in 15 hrs, helped by moonlight but with no fixed ropes in perhaps first such descent in Himalaya.

  Route used to go up was same as MacIntyre used and very dangerous to 6700m from rockfall in day time so climbed entirely at night. Descent route very near Polish 1981 spring route.


  Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 9 Oct 1984

  2 members 
    Erich Lucas 22, alpine guide, Barcelona
    Nil Bohigas, 25 guide, Barcelona

  Summit via South Face without oxygen 3 Oct 12:20 hours. Clear but windy weather, stayed 90 minutes, took photos from all angles; left 13:50 hours and returned to lost biv at 15:30 hours; put Nepal, Spanish flags and khata on top. Leave BC 10 Oct.


expid: BARU00101
peakid: BARU
year: 2000
route1: SE Ridge from E
nation: Germany
leaders: Goetz Wiegand
sponsor: Himalaya 2000 - Saxon Himalaya Expedition
bcdate: 2000-04-09
smtdate: 2000-05-01
termnote: Abandoned at 7050m due to bad weather
othersmts: Climbed Makalu (MAKA-001-02)
campsites: BC(09/04,4800m),C1(11/04,5600m),C2(20/04,6200m),xxx(01/05,7050m)
agency: Asian Trekking
primid: MAKA00102
routememo:
  BC at lower Makalu BC ESE of point 6380m Schneider map
  C1 west of point 6093 and north of Sherpani Col
  C2 at normal C2 for teams from east
  High point on SE Ridge.

  Tried for top on 21 April. Mehnert, Meutzner, Wiegand and Zill reached 7000m, but route very difficult and snow and wind drove back to C2. 1st May same people tried for top, got to 7050m and again same bad weather so abandoned Baruntse on 2 May for Makalu while others left 8 May. 

  Never returned to Baruntse after death of Mehnert [on Makalu] and weather not really much better than before.

  [Hartung and Augermann only attempted Baruntse, then departed with a trekking group.]


expid: BARU00102
peakid: BARU
year: 2000
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: John Baker
sponsor: Baruntse Spring 2000
ascent1: 51st
countries: New Zealand
bcdate: 2000-03-22
smtdate: 2000-03-31
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2000-04-05
campsites: BC(22/03,5400m),C1(27/03,6135m),C2(30/03,6500m),Smt(31/03)
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  BC north-northwest of small lake on south side of Hunku Glacier
  C1 at top of West Col
  C2 at base of SE Ridge.

  31st summit to C2. 1 April all to BC after packing up C1. Most days were overcast with light snowfall and windy. Summit day crystal clear and hardly any wind. 1st April constant wind with strong gusts.


  Baruntse Blues, by Alistair Stevens

  Any glamorous or noble illusions I had regarding high altitude expeditions had been long since shattered. We were doing our first carry to C1 on a bright and sunny day. However things were not bright and sunny with me. 5700m and I'm not feeling so good: exhausted, wobbly and a thick head. John tells me to drop my load and descend. I think about arguing the point then decide that maybe he's right. I return to BC with Nick, feeling sorry for myself, and with real concerns that my expeditions is over.
     My expedition so far seemed dogged with illness. The original plan had been to trek from Lukla, across the Zwata La and Mera La passes, up the Hinku Valley to BC with fifty porters in tow. However heavy winter snows prohibited this so we intended to fly ourselves and the base camp stores in by Russian helicopter after a short acclimatization trek. Our climbing Sherpas would trek in ahead of us. However this plan was foiled by fate intervening in the form of me suffering AMS (altitude sickness) at Dingboche. This in itself seemed odd given that two years previously I had summoned Island Peak with no problems. Anyway a visit to HRA doc at Pheriche revealed that flying in to BC camp was no longer an option. So back to the original plan...our store flew in, and we were to walk in with six porters. We returned to Lukla, my AMS symptoms cleared up but now I had a virulent dose of the shits.
     The approach trek proved to be an unexpected adventure in itself. Every day the weather was the same: fine in the morning; cloud, wind and snow in the afternoons: clearing in the night. The second day Kevin and Stu had to rescue two porters lost in the dark and heavy snowfall descending the Zwata La Pass. Day 5: we have crossed the Mera La, but now we're in a blizzard and the Sherpas are lost. Kevin's up front using map and compass to navigate but the Sherpas don't trust this and are threatening to jack. In the end we convince them to follow us and we descend to a cold and miserable camp in the Hinku. Day 7: We're not sure of the exact location of BC; hell, we don't even know for sure the helicopter actually made the drop-off. Some ot the Sherpas are racing ahead to the wrong base camp. We try to stop them but they put on a burst of speed which is beyond us. Its just on dark when we finally locate the camp at 5400m. I've never been so happy to see a bunch of tents.
     First full day in BC is a rest day. Rest day means we're not climbing but it doesn't mean we're lying around in the pit - there's a great deal of work to do. Still, after the approach trek everybody is walking around like zombies. The morning is spent sorting stores and personal gear. In the after afternoon Nick, John, Stu and I have the enjoyable task of checking all the high-camp tents in a blizzard. We discover that a number of the tents have problems. Nepalese obviously consider working zip an option rather than a mandatory feature. In the meantime the Sherpas have been busy fixing rope on the headwall up to C1.
     The next day is the first carry to C1. Everybody is very excited about getting on the mountain. I have a problem with the leg strap on my harness: accumulated frustration from the past two weeks erupts and I lash out at my pack beating it with my harness and issue a tirade of expletives - at least it provides a shorth diversion for the rest of the team. The emotion passes and I join the rest of the team making their way to C1. My progress is slow. I reach 5700m, halfway and I'm not feeling great. John sends me down. That night I lie awake wondering if that's the end of the road for me.
     The third day at BC is declared a rest day. The rest of the crew are completely spent from yesterday's carry. I also use the day to rest and recover. The following day Nick and I, accompanied by a Sherpa, climb to 5700m to spend the night on the glacier and acclimatize. It turns out to be the best thing I could have done. It becomes the turning point for my acclimatization and from then on I get a little stronger.
     Our fifth day on the mountain and we ascend to C1. In typical fashion a blizzard arrives just as we get to the headwall. For the first time I hook on to the ropes with my jumar. There's an initial pitch of snow covered rock to negotiate. At sea level this climbing would be trivial; up here it seems epic. Above the rock there's 100m of 45-degree ice. In spite of the fact my crampons and axe wre only sharpened two days ago they hardly penetrate the bullet proof ice. By the time I get to the top I'm glad to be rid of the system - too much clothesline, granny knots and ice the consistency of concrete for my liking. In a howling gale and snow I turn left and go in search fo C1.
     Another rest day arrives. Some of the others have got some mild AMS symptoms. However I'm starting to feel stronger in spite of ragged cough and sinus infection which won't go away. We spend the day brewing and eating. The Sherpas did a carry to C2. There's a real sense of momentum about the expedition. 
     On 29 March, seven days since arriving in base camp, we do our first carry to C2. There's some excitement because we're not sure at what altitude the Sherpas have established the camp. It turns out to be at 6500m, near some prominent ice cliffs visible from BC. I'm happy to reach C2 because I'm feeling quite good, in contrast to only four days ago. However I do feel quite spaced out and feeble - mild hypoxia at work. While waiting for the others, Nick and I start to cut a platform for a tent and discover I can only work for about thirty seconds. One of the younger Sherpas observes our efforts for a few minutes and then grabs the shovel from us. In a flurry of activity he has a platform cut in a matter of minutes. The others arrive have a feeble go at cutting platforms and then its a time for lunch and descent to C1 for the night.
     The following day we moved to C2 with our personal gear. The summit bid is less than twenty four hours away, weather permitting. We arrive at C2, feeling surprisingly better than we did yesterday and cut platforms and erect tents. Nick, Kami Sherpa and I install ourselves in a two-man North Face tent, which proves to be not too tight, and spend the rest of the day brewing and eating.
     The alarm goes at 1:00 am. I've been awake for several hours, woken by the cold. We brew, make porridge and get ready in anticipation of a 3:00 am start. At 4:00 am Nick and I are still standing around. We're roped to Kami and he won't leave ahead of the Sirdar. I can no longer feel my fingers or toes. The temperature is cold, numbers seem meaningless. Frustrated I launch a bitter tirade against no one in particular. We finally leave fifteen minutes later. I know that no feeling will return to my digits until they receive direct sunlight, two hours from now.
     We ascend easy slopes in good cramponing conditions. The sky is clear and to the east I can make out the silhouette of Makalu against the starlight. God, what a mountain that is: it looks like an immense fortress of granite and ice. We passed a series of fixed ropes put in by the Sherpas but chose not use them as they were on slopes where we felt very uncomfortable. The imminent sunrise was heralded by a ruddy glow over the sea of Himalayan peaks to the east. I grew impatient for the sun to get over the horizon. Finally it made its glorious appearance. It seemed an auspicious time to take a break and our rope team stopped and waited for the others to catch up. Circulation returned in agonizing waves to my hands and feet. Stu, who had just arrived was also suffering the hot aches. We waited a few more minutes and then pressed on, fingers still burning painfully.
     Climbing higher we reached the knife edge section of the ridge. Here the rope that had been fixed proved invaluable as snow conditions were soft. Steps plugged by climbers ahead of me would often collapse. At one point the steps collapsed completely and I found myself wallowing angrily in a chest-deep hole. Eventually the rope ran out and the two Sherpas who had passed us earlier would not go on without fiximg more rope. Kevin arrived and after a quick conflab it was decided that we would proceed without fixed ropes. It took some time to convince the Sherpas that this was Ok but that's eventually what we did. The last 200m of climbing occurred in high altitude slow motion and at times the summit seemed to move away from us. However we finally reached the summit shortly after 12:00 am. In spite of a cold wind we spent some time on the summit congratulating each other, taking photos and placing kata (blessed scarves) on the summit. I fell no elation, rather I felt groggy an cold with a sharp altitude headache reminding me to get down.
     The descent to C2 took three and half hours compared with eight hours for the ascent. I returned to camp exhausted. The others rocked in about ten minutes after me. There was some concern regarding Nick as he had been suffering AMS symptoms all day. As a precaution he took Diamox and spent the night on oxygen. Kami, our ever cheerful and diligent tent partner insisted on doing all the brewing and food preparation. Driven by dehydration, we drank so many brews I lost count.
      During the night the wind came up, lifting the tent and creating fitful sleep. Morning arrived and after an un-appetizing breakfast we broke camp in strong winds. The cold and strong airs made the task difficult and slow. We were determined to do a single carry so everybody loaded up their packs, the Sherpas in particular. Descent to C1 revealed the weariness everyone felt - we stopped several times to rest and regain control of our breathing.
     We returned to C1 to find that the nearby col was acting like a funnel and the winds were even stronger, perhaps gale force. Collapsing C1 was even harder and we lost several items to the wind. The added gear from C1 made packs even heavier but base camp drew us like a magnet.
     A short walk brought us to the top of the headwall on the West Col. Several of the Sherpas had gone on ahead and were descending the fixed ropes. We were readying ourselves to descend when Kevin noticed the state of the ice-screw anchoring the top rope. It had been over a week since it had been placed and the ice surrounding it had melted out. I was amazed it had held the weight of the Sherpas who had already descended. Kevin replaced the screw. Naturally we sent the biggest guy down first to test it. I followed next using a carabiner instead of my ATC as there was too much tension on the rope. Violent gusts made the rapes unpleasant and hard work. By the time I reached the bottom of the headwall I was exhausted so I rested for some time. Dropping in altitude seemed to provide no increase in strength.
     Across the glacier the descent became more gradual. I passed Stu, who as usual, was carrying a Sherpa load. As I reached Stash Point the cook boy arrived with a welcome thermos of hot sweet coffee and biscuits. I consumed my share and continued on quickly. The cold wind chilled you as soon as you stood still.
     The closer I got to the BC the slower I went. The cook boy overtook me, now carrying a load and running. Finally I climbed the small hill of moraine, descended and I was there. I wasted no time and headed to the mess tent for brews and biscuits. One by one everybody trickled in, tired but elated at having climbed Baruntse and descended safely. To celebrate, a cake of sorts was even manufactured in the cook tent and consumed by all.
     The following day was declared a rest day. Two Sherpas were dispatched to Tagnag to arrange a helicopter. Kevin and John did an inventory of gear. Pemba and Kami returned to Stash Point and ran back with laods that ahd been left there the previous day. Nick and I had a small emergency as melting snow threatened to flood our tent. Some quick work with pick and shovel averted disaster. Now that the mountain was climbed it hardly occupied our thoughts. Instead we thougt of return to Kathmandu, hot showers, warmers climate and better food.
     Our second full day in Base Camp dawned with the wind flexing its considerable musle again. Nothing to do but drink, eat sleep and read. We all hoped that a helicopter could be summoned and save seven days of slog back to Lukla. Our answer came that night when Chamba Sherpa returned to report that the radio-telephone at Tagnag was not operational. Kami had gone on to Lukla saying that all things going well the helicopter would be in base camp in two days, maybe.
     Day 3 in BC brought wind and boredom. There was some concern regarding the payload the chopper could safely take off with at this altitude. Anticipating weight restrictions Kevin and John had the Sherpas draw straws to establish a pecking order for those who might have to walk back to Lukla. We packed what gear we could in preparation for the alleged flight the following morning.
     We rose early on the fourth day and broke camp. On queue, around 7:00 am we heard the whop-whop of the approaching chopper. Our ticket home was on its way.


