# exped

expid: MANA84102
peakid: MANA
year: 1984
route1: NE Face
nation: W Germany
leaders: Hans Eitel
ascent1: 20th
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 1984-03-28
smtdate: 1984-04-30
smttime: 1330
termdate: 1984-05-04
campsites: BC(28/03,3800m),C1(31/03,5200m),C2(14/04,6200m),C3(15/04,6900m),C4(16/04,7400m),Smt(30/04,11/05)
routememo:
  BC at usual site where there is grass and lots of water.

  Loretan and Ruedi down to BC on 18th April because of strong winds. 27th April started up again C2 28th April. 29th C4 and top on 30th. Burgener and Joos in C4 with summiters but tired and did not go up from C4 but wanted to try for top on 1 May. Loretan went to C3 on 30th but Ruedi lost crampon and stayed in C4 on 1st but could walk Ok and reached BC on 3rd May with Eitel and Co. who came up to see where and how he is. Joos has stayed on to make summit bid with Group II. Very strong windstorm and very cold at summit on 30 April.


  Prachanda Shrestha, Ministry of Tourism - 6 May 84

  30 April summit 14:00 hours

  1. Erhard Loretan (1959, Swiss motn guide, Mont Salvens)
  2. Marcel Ruedi (1938, Swiss butcher, Winterthur) stayed on top 5-10 minutes
     weather cloudy with strong wind at top
     health good

  29 April - Loretan and Marcel plus 2 other members, Norbert Joos (1968, Swiss mtn guide) and Werner Burgener (1958, Swiss forester, Luetschental) reached C4 (altitude not given).

  1 May while descending from C4 Burgener lost his way, so on 2 May Hans Eitel, Peter Matthias and Sirdar Ang Chopal Sherpa ascended from C2 at 6200m to rescue Werner and found him in semi-conscious state in C4 tent. 3 May the 4 men brought Werner to BC safely and his health condition satisfactory on 4 May.

  Not mentioned whether more will attempt summit.


expid: EVER84105
peakid: EVER
year: 1984
route1: N Face (left of Great Couloir)
nation: UK
leaders: Pat Gunson
sponsor: Cumbrian Expedition
countries: USA
approach: Lhasa->Shigatse->Tingri-Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 1984-03-19
smtdate: 1984-04-19
termdate: 1984-05-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to heart attack of Gunson
campsites: BC(19/03,5000m),C1,C2.ABC(01/04,5560m),C3(11/04,6200m),C4(18/04,6700m),C5(19/04,7700m),xxx(7700m)
accidents: Gunson suffered heart attack at 7000m
routememo:
  Originally planned to attempt W Ridge, but switched route to N Face after avalanche fell on Bulgarian W Ridge expedition.


  David Kay (email to Salisbury) - 2 March 2006

  We arrived in Lhasa on 15th March and departed for the mountain on 17th March. The trip to Rongbuk via Xigaze, & Xigar took 3 days. We arrived at Rongbuk on Monday 19th March to be met by members of the SAS team who were attempting the direct ascent of the Hornbein Coulouir. We knew quite a few of them quite well as Gunson had been on Everest in 1976 with Lane & Stokes, the 2 leaders.

  During the trip to base camp Rawlinson contracted cerebral edema and was left at Xigar on 18th with Delamere (doctor), Godfrey & Duncan. Delamere & Duncan rejoined us at base camp on 25th March and Rawlinson & Godfrey arrived on Monday 2nd April with Rawlinson fully recovered and able to play a full part in the climbing.

  The following day 3rd April (my birthday) Kay & Delamere were setting out to establish C3 on the upper Rongbuk Glacier when we were advised that a large avalanche had hit the SAS team. We spent the next 3 days helping the injured down to Base Camp. The Army left us a load of rations, radios & fuel when they evacuated the mountain which helped us enormously as we were on a bit of a shoestring budget.

  We eventually established C3 on the upper glacier on Wednesday 11th April. Lynch & Kay traversed the glacier to the foot of the Hornbein Coulouir and retrieved several ladders and 300 ft fixed rope left by the SAS to secure the badly crevassed route to C3 across the glacier. 

  C4 was established on 18th April after a distinctly dodgy traverse under the S Face of Changtse; an easy route but dangerous. Gunson & Delamere climbed on the following day (a long day for them) and established C5 in the bottom of the Central [Great] Coulouir on the N Face, much higher than C4 [est. 7700-7800m]. Only Gunson & Delamere reached this camp.

  The next few days were spent stocking the higher camps before the weather broke on 23rd April.

  Gunson had his heart attack on 1st May at about 7000m between C3 & C4 as we were on our way back up the mountain after a period of bad weather during which we retreated to C2. We erected a tent directly under the S Face of Changtse and Gunson & Delamere stayed there for 3 days until Delamere considered that Pat was fit to be moved. The evacuation to C3 was a nightmare & after the make-shift stretcher (ladder) proved impossible to handle safely, Gunson was walked back.

  The only oxygen used was medically for Gunson after his heart attack. We only had 2 bottles and found that one had a defective valve and was empty. An American team on the N Col route loaned us a couple of extra bottles which probably saved Pat's life.

  Nuttall climbed to C3 on several occasions and once to C4 during the evacuation of the mountain. Godfrey & Duncan only got as far as C2 which was effectively an Advance Base Camp.

  Yaks were used to carry to C2. No porters were used beyond C2.

  We evacuated Base Camp on the morning of Tuesday, 15th May.


  Paul Moores, Lhotse Shar - 31 Aug 84

  Pat Gunson plus at least seven members. Gunson maybe not leader. Unknown bunch, badly disorganized & deeply in debt. W Ridge was route but hadn't gotten onto it but only on its flank.

  Gunson was at 23,000 ft (7000m) when had heart attack, was evacuated by stretcher and expedition ended. Had already run out of gas fuel & borrowed some from SAS team also on Everest.


  Brian Hall - 27 May 84

  Cumbrian Everest: 
  Route = W Ridge from N - not to go to Lho La but via another approach like French - then to use Hornbein Couloir.

  Hall not surprised if they got nowhere, even if they didn't get to Rongbuk. Badly organized, climbers not competent.


  Bulgarian Everest summiter - 23 May 84

  British climbers for W Ridge from north came to Bulgarian's C1 on Lho La but never went above it & were not seen again (these may have been SAS visitors).


expid: EVER84104
peakid: EVER
year: 1984
route1: N Face (Hornbein Couloir)
nation: UK
leaders: Bronco Lane, Brummie Stokes
sponsor: Special Air Service Regiment
bcdate: 1984-03-18
smtdate: 1984-04-02
termdate: 1984-04-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6860m due to avalanche destroying ABC
campsites: BC(18/03),ABC(29/03,6200m),xxx(02/04,6860m)
accidents: Avalanche from N Col destroyed ABC killing Swierzy and injuring 4 others
routememo:
  Brian Hall - 27 May 84

  SAS Everest Expedition

  Were to climb N Face up or near Hornbein Couloir. Said they would do a new route but Hall does not know what would have been new about it - perhaps planned to climb to left of Hornbein.


  Vassilev, Bulgarian Everest Expedition - 24 May 84

  British army were on N Face directly below Hornbein Coluoir. Bulgarians met them including Stokes or Lowe (who had lost fingers to frostbite & said had scaled Everest before) and saw their camp on Rongbuk main glacier. Met them on Lho La at Bulgarian's C1.

  Everest - two British Attempts. In the spring there were two British expeditions attempting Everest from the north. The nine-man Cumbrian expedition led by Pat Gunson had planned to try the W Ridge while the fourteen-man Special Air Service Regiment expedition led by Bronco Lane was trying the N Face by the Hornbein Couloir. The latter established Base Camp on March 18 and started pushing the route up the N Face towards the Hornbein Couloir, making excellent progress and reaching 22,500 ft on April 2. 

  On April 3 there were five occupants at Advance Base when a huge powder snow avalanche [at 5 am], triggered by collapsing seracs from the N Col two miles away, swept the entire upper glacial basin and destroyed the camp. Tony Swierzy was killed and the other four injured. The expedition was abandoned.


  Bronce Lance (by email) - 20 Sept 2005

  SAS on Everest 1984

  Before the Falklands War erupted, Brummie Stokes and I had been given permission and encouragement from the Director SAS to apply for an attempt on Mount Everest, in the pre-monsoon season 1984. The team, drawn from members of the SAS Mountain Troops, would total 14 and our route was to be the North Face, with an approach via China and Tibet to the Rongbuk Glacier. 
   
  Travel by westerners in both these countries had only recently been made possible and the in country costs encountered, some £100,000 was at least three times that of neighbouring Nepal.  This made for some interesting fund raising, which fortunately became viable at the last minute by the arrival of George Williams, owner of “Anglian Windows”, to take the burden. We had asked founder of the SAS, David Stirling to be a patron and together with SAS serving Officer Ian Crooke, provided us with their accumulated experience, contacts and the necessary support for us to take on the expedition leadership.
    
  As we personally knew the climbers in the unit - selecting a team did not present problems.  However, to establish the crucial team identity and check crucial altitude adaptation, Brummie took the whole group for a successful ascent of Mt McKinley (20,320 feet) in May of 1983.  During this trip Merv, Andy Baxter and Tony Swierzy made the then fastest non-stop ascent of Mt Hunter, a major feat.

  Following some last minute (cordial?) negotiations in Beijing by Mal Parry and I, the Chinese Mountaineering Association allowed us to call forward the remainder of the team to a rendezvous in Lhasa. The last occasion a group of British soldiers had been there was when Younghusband led a punitive campaign in 1904 to demand allegiance from the then Dalai Lama. Hopefully our short sojourn would not re-open any half forgotten memories! 

  Mal and I were to be in advance of the remainder by some 10 days, sorting out our gear and making last minute purchases from the bazaar of goodies for the yak herdsmen and our 4 locally employed Sherpa assistants and cooks. Mal, an old Mountain Troop hand who had helped spearhead the high climbing standards of the late 1960s, was in his element. The local officials became mesmerised by his graphic accounts of English bowmen in the battles against the French. All this delivered in half English, half Welsh via an English-Chinese and then Chinese-Tibetan interpreters.
   
  From Lhasa we then travelled in the footsteps of all the pre-war attempts, except we were required to use trucks! 3 days later found us at our initial Base Camp, beside the derelict Rongbuk Monastery, at 16,000 feet and in need of some serious altitude acclimatisation. Our previous requests to the Chinese authorities to be allowed some time on the approach to acclimatise had fallen on deaf ears. However by taking it very easy for the first ten days we were fortunate in not having anyone suffer unduly from the altitude.
    
  The way ahead lay initially up the Rongbuk Glacier and then, after two intermediate Camps, took a line to the left of where the Hornbein Couloirs cuts into the North Face. We intended to use oxygen to assist us, as our goal was to make the summit and return, with all the team intact.  Initial progress was very good and we had fixed rope out to nearly 23,000 feet, when disaster struck. 
   
  Brummie plus Andy Baxter, Graham, Tony Sweirzy and Merv were based at Camp II, 21,350 feet, at the foot of the North Face. For three consecutive days they had been making excellent progress, first lead climbing, then “fixing” the route behind them. At 6.15am on the morning of the 3rd April 1984, a huge avalanche engulfed Advance Base, carrying it down the glacier - killing Tony Sweirzy outright and injuring the remaining four, Andy Baxter quite seriously. Brummie later recalls the event:

  ...“During the night the wind started to blow up, but sheltered as we were in our tents in the lee of the hill, we knew little about it as we snuggled deep in our bags and slept off the effects of our little yellow sleeping pills.
    
  Pulling on my boots at 6.15 the next morning, I hear Merv scream a warning, but it came too late. A chunk of ice whistled through the tent in front of my face and the whole world went crazy. The tent, with me inside, was picked up and thrown down the mountainside by what I took at the time to be a big wind.
    
  I felt myself being lifted from the ground and rolled around inside the small blue capsule as it was flung down the hill, all my kit tolling and tangling around me as we went. I was screaming with panic, convinced I was going to die without seeing anyone again. My mind was racing: I had to do something. 
   
  Bouncing off the snow, I felt my shoulder jar as it hit something. I then noticed that a small hole had been made by the ice when it flew through the tent earlier. Pushing my hand into this hole, I ripped a large tear down the side of the bubble I was in, deflated it quickly and was half outside as tons of snow began piling in on top of me. I blacked out.
   
  When I came to, I was swimming for the surface through the suffocating snow. I fought my way clear, knelt up and opened my eyes. What I saw horrified me and scared. Snow and ice blocks were piled up everywhere, bodies lay crumpled and half buried in the snow, and there was such strong winds blowing, it was almost impossible to scramble to my feet.
    
  A large rumbling noise echoed in my ears together with a high pitched whine of the wind as it tore savagely at my clothing. I stood up but was immediately bowled over again. “Oh no”, I thought. “It's starting again!” Any minute now I expected to be blown away once more, and cried out in anguish, “God, No! No! Please don't make it now! Please don't make it now!” I was shouting at the wind to stop like a crazy man.
    
  I couldn't understand what was going on, what had happened. Later I learned that Merv, who had screamed the warning, had been standing outside his tent and had seen a 400 foot frontage of serac high on the mountain start to tumble towards us. 
   
  The crash that followed - after it had fallen free for a thousand feet - shook the whole amphitheatre and triggered off avalanches of powdered snow from Everest and Changtse. The whole lot poured on us, completely devastating our camp and sweeping it away. Still numb with fear and shock, I looked up the hill to where Merv was waving and yelling over the wind “I'm all right!” But he continued to wave, obviously trying to tell us something. I made out the words “Help me! Help me! Bring an axe!” 
   
  Dazed I looked around at the tatters of my tent: no axe, no anything. It had all gone, all been buried. I turned to look down the slope and felt a hot iron on my neck. “Ohhh  My neck! My neck! It's broken!” It hurt so much, I couldn't move it, and fell back to my knees clutching at my head which seemed to be lying on my shoulder. 
   
  I had never felt such pain, but something in my mind insisted I get up and help Merv.  Staggering over towards where he was bending over something, I felt the snow give way beneath me and fell into a shallow crevasse. Once more, panic rose almost uncontrollably. I hung on; a burst of adrenaline gave me the strength to drag myself out and over to Merv. “An axe, an axe, we need an axe” he was saying, but I had not understood why until I saw for myself that Tony had been killed and Andy's head was buried under an ice block.
    
  There were no tools anywhere with which to dig him free, and in desperation I pulled a plastic spoon from my pocket and scraped away at the snow covering the ice block that trapped Andy's head. He was conscious, but very dazed and did not really understand what was happening. We kept reassuring him as Merv and I scrabbled away at the solid ice until, with a cracking sound, the ice Learning from Merv that Graham was alive, although badly bruised and shocked, I wandered off to look for some oxygen and the remnants of a tent with which to protect Andy from the icy wind. Miraculously, the radio, my oxygen masking and one cylinder were located from the area where my tent had come to rest, and I quickly fitted the mask onto Andy's face and switched the control valve to maximum.
    
  There was instant reaction in Andy's eyes as the oxygen brought his body warmth. “How's Tony?”  His first words were for his friend and climbing partner. Choking back tears, I had to tell him that Tony was dead. Merv appeared the least injured of us all. He pulled out a torn length of tent fabric from the rubble and wrapped it around Andy, doing his best to console him as he did so. I made my way over to Graham.

  Just after 7-o-clock I made radio contact with Bronco at Base Camp. In what must have been an almost hysterical voice, I told him what had happened and begged him to get a rescue party up as soon as possible with tents and sleeping bags. 
   
  Archie and John, I learned, had left Base Camp already and so was on their way to us unaware of what had happened. They heard the roar of a large avalanche, but thought no more about it than to comment that is sounded like a big one. Two miles away below our camp, they came upon the signs that all was not well.
   
  A blue sleeping bag lay flapping in the wind on the glacier, not far from our boulderstone.  The higher they got the more debris they encountered. Bits of tents, hats and as Archie was to comment later, “There were lumps of ice the size of Minis scattered everywhere”; the camp had been pushed half a mile from where it had stood. 

  Knowing by now that they had to expect tragedy, it must have been a harrowing experience for them to come up and find out what had happened: John later told me that he half-thought to find us all dead. Even so, we could read the extent of the damage by the expression in his face:  Tony dead, Andy with broken ribs and shoulder, me with a damaged neck, Graham with frost-bit on his fingers, Merv bruised and all of us in a state of shock.
    
  Nothing had escaped the avalanche. Out kit lay scattered over a square mile. All we could do was gather up what clothing we could find to keep warm in and get ourselves down to Base Camp as quickly as possible. 
   
  An hour and a half later, we spotted the others making their way at best speed up the glacier to meet us and, leaving Andy in the care of Archie and John, the rest of us limped down to meet them. I tried to ignore the burning pain in my next at each jarring step, and to put from my mind for a moment the horror of what had happened. But it would not go away.
    
  The whole thing had been so harsh, so brutal, and it had happened so fast. So many things now needed to be done. Until now I had been reacting instinctively, had kept going solely on adrenaline. Now, away from any immediate danger, a wave of emotion swept over me and I felt absolutely drained.
   
  Dropping to the ground on the cold snow, I wept bitterly. Why, why, why had this happened? Just when all was going so well for us?"...

  There then followed two exhausting days as the remainder of us, assisted by Pat Gunson's Cambrian team, carried Andy down on a make-shift stretcher fashioned, from a ladder length. At one stage Andy's lung nearly collapsed, giving Doctor Richard Villar a sleepless night keeping him alive.  

  Three days later Brummie, Andy and Graham, escorted by Richard left by road for Lhasa and then air to Hong Kong, where they all made a satisfactory recovery. (Tragically, Andy was to later die as a result of a brain tumour). The remainder of us held a simple burial service for Tony Sweirzy where he had died and erected an inscribed memorial stone to his memory at the snout of the Rongbuk Glacier. 
   
  We assessed our situation, the options open and decided our future intentions. We concluded, that with the loss of nearly half of the team including our Doctor, Richard Villar, plus some irreplaceable equipment, the SAS Mount Everest 1984 Expedition was over.
    
  As I pointed out in the opening paragraph to this chapter, the SAS Regiment is a constantly evolving organism. Re-assessing how it carries out its MoD roles and functions and ensuring that firstly, best value for manpower investment is obtained and secondly, that they are always thinking “What the NEXT job will be” then trying to be prepared for that eventuality.
    
  Following our attempt in 1984, as we departed Beijing the Chinese were requested to consider a return visit. They agreed to this for an attempt, post monsoon 1986, on Mount Everest North East Ridge, an unclimbed and formidable route. However, a revised perception, by the then SAS Regiment Command Group of MoD doctrine for its current and future employment meant this attempt; (to be led by Brummie as I was unavailable) had sadly to be curtailed. 
   
  Subsequently, Brummie retired from the Army and returned to Mount Everest to make a successful attempt on the route with a civilian team that included; Paul Moores, Joe Brown, Mo Antonine and Harry Taylor, with once again David Stirling as Patron and sponsorship by George Williams, Chairman of Anglian Windows Norwich.


  Bronce Lance (by email) - 24 Sept 2005

  Richard, to answer your queries: 

  (1) Oxygen was taken for use at and above 25,000 feet.

  (2) The Sherpas (we had 4) were not from Nepal and had limited technical expertise. The plan was that they would load carry too 25,000 once the fixed ropes were in place and keep the lower logistics flowing with one or two of the Brit members, whilst our summit attempt was made.

  (3) Yes we did use Oxygen extensively during the casevac on Andy. This took us 3 days, carrying him down to the Rongbuk on a makeshift stretcher of ladders and mats, as the team one had been destroyed in the avalanche. Fortunately there was a US Medical Research team at Base Camp with very little to do - just a bit useful!

  (4) Ages. Graham would have been 37, Merv and Andy both about 30.


expid: EVER84303
peakid: EVER
year: 1984
route1: N Col-N Face (Great Couloir)
nation: USA
leaders: Lou Whittaker
ascent1: 67th
approach: Lhasa->Rongbuk Glacier
bcdate: 1984-08-20
smtdate: 1984-10-20
smttime: 1545
termdate: 1984-10-22
accidents: Wilson cracked rib from coughing; Lou Whittaker eye injury from wind
campsites:
  BC(20/08,5150m),C1,C2,C3.ABC(6400m),C4(15/09,7000m),C5A(20/09,7590m),C5B(17/10,7560m),C6(18/10,8100m),Smt(20/10)

routememo:
  Roskelley turned back very high because it was just too cold for him; he was afraid he might not make it back safely; he was not using oxygen.

  Ershler was on oxygen and went charging on to the top.


expid: SPHN49101
peakid: SPHN
year: 1949
route1: NE side
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Alfred Sutter
ascent1: 2nd
bcdate: 1949-05-19
smtdate: 1949-06-06
termdate: 1949-07-18
campsites: BC(19/05,4660m),C1(5140m),C2(5700m),C3(04/06,6400m),Smt(06/06)
primid: PYRM49101
othersmts:
  Climbed Tengkoma (TENG-491-01) and Dzanye (DZAN-491-01); attempted Ohmi Kangri (OHMI-491-01) and Pyramid Peak (PYRM-491-01); recon Kangbachen (KANB-491-01) and Drohmo (DROM-491-01)


expid: KUSU85101
peakid: KUSU
year: 1985
route1: N Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiroshi Aota
ascent1: 4th?
bcdate: 1985-04-05
smtdate: 1985-04-15
termdate: 1985-04-16
campsites: ABC(05/04),Biv(06/04,5300m),Biv(07/04,5600m),Biv(14/04),Smt(15/04)
routememo:
  Hiroshi Aota soloed the N Face of the mountain in April. Aota and Takao Kurosawa made BC (4200m) on April 5 and made ABC (4800m) under the N Ridge within the same day. They tried to acclimatize by climbing on the N Ridge. They bivouacked at 5300m on the 6th and at 5600m on the 7th. Next day on the 8th however, Kurosawa's condition deteriorated and descended to 5600m that night. On the 14th Aota alone set out ABC for the N Face. He reached the W Summit ridge 9 hours and half later and bivouacked in an ice cave that night. Next day he climbed along the knife-edged line and reached the top. He retreated climbing down and rappeling on the N Ridge.


expid: KUSU85102
peakid: KUSU
year: 1985
route1: NE Ridge
route2: N Face
nation: USA
leaders: Geoffrey Tabin
routememo:
  Tom Dickey (via email to Salisbury) - 19 Jan 2004
    
  I tried the [North] Face the spring (May) before that [Autumn 1985] alpine style with Steve Ruoss, after his attempt on the NE Ridge with Jim Traverso, Geoff Tabin and Dave Dossiter. We got a little way up the face (1/3?) before getting stormed off; we were almost swept off and down the runnel we were in, but managed to get down. The storm continued for another 4 days and we ran out of supplies.


expid: THAM85301
peakid: THAM
year: 1985
route1: E Col-N Face (to 5500m)
route2: N Face (direct) (to 6500m)
nation: France
leaders: Vincent Fine
sponsor: Expedition Lhotse 1985
bcdate: 1985-09-29
smtdate: 1985-10-03
termdate: 1985-10-04
termnote: Abandoned at 6560m due to difficult serac
othersmts: Island Peak; attempted Lhotse (LHOT-853-02)
campsites: BC(29/09,4100m),Biv1(01/10,5000m),Biv2(02/10,5000m),xxx(03/10,6500m)
primid: LHOT85302
routememo:
  1st attempt on 1 October by 4 climbers Fauquet, Fine, Martine and Potie reached 5500m and back to biv: steep ice wall encountered without sufficient equipment. 

  2 Oct Fine and Fauquet took 2 ice axes each in new biv at same altitude but after long traverse to right. 3 Oct Fine and Fauquet with no biv equipment got to just below top but stopped by big seracs, hard steep ice. Reached same biv at 8:00 pm. 4 Oct to BC and Thyangboche. No more food at bivouac so had to descend.

  LeCable not a climber and left BC to go to Thangboche early.


expid: EVER85104
peakid: EVER
year: 1985
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Mari Abrego Santesteban
bcdate: 1985-03-20
smtdate: 1985-05-09
termdate: 1985-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to fatal accident
campsites: BC(20/03,5200m),ABC(20/03,6500m),Biv(06/04,7000m),Biv(09/05,7600m),xxx(09/05,7600m)
accidents: Navarro killed in 250m fall from 7500m; Zamarbide injured in same fall
routememo:
  Spanish expedition led by Mario Abrego reached 7600m and then 2 members fell. 1 died, 1 injured and climb abandoned. Man killed was 35-yrs-old Juanjo Navarro.

  Group met one member at BC and he repeated another member slipped and fell to his death. Man at BC had been injured. 2 others were trying to reach summit.

  Group arrived in KTM 27 May via Khasa.


expid: EVER85202
peakid: EVER
year: 1985
route1: N Face (Great Couloir)
route2: N Col
nation: France
leaders: Pierre Beghin
smtdate: 1985-08-10
termnote: Abandoned at 8200m due to deep snow
campsites: xxx(10/08,8200m)
accidents: No accidents
routememo:
  Pierre Beghin and wife alone on Everest in August. Wife maybe went as high as N Col, Beghin to 8200m and then defeated by deep snow, which was too exhausting for one person to make track though.


expid: AMAD95306
peakid: AMAD
year: 1995
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Alfredo Malingambi
sponsor: Himalaya 1995 to Ama Dablam
ascent1: 163,165 w/Kamm
countries: Germany
bcdate: 1995-10-08
smtdate: 1995-10-13
termdate: 1995-10-16
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak (by all 7 for acclimatization)
campsites: BC(08/10,4500m),C1(10/10,5800m),C3(14/10,6400m),Smt(13,15/10)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Had only 3 tents so all could not go up together so went in 2 parties; 1st (13th) group to top from C1 at 5800m, 2nd group (15th) slept at 5800m on 13th, 14th slept at 6400m having moved tent from 5800m because Engel had headache & went to top from there.

  Malingambi not enough experience in high altitudes.
   
  Niederfrieden up to C1 several times, but he too not experienced at altitude and did not expect to summit.


expid: AMAD95308
peakid: AMAD
year: 1995
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Peter Habeler
sponsor: Peter Habeler Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Netherlands
bcdate: 1995-10-14
smtdate: 1995-10-20
smttime: 1105
termdate: 1995-10-24
campsites: BC(14/10,4560m),C1(17/10,5700m),C2(18/10,5900m),Smt(20,23/10)
accidents: Schluga 3 burned fingers from slipping on rope
achievment: 1st Dutch summitter
agency: Khumbu Himalayan Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at beginning of ridge.

  20th Oct Habeler & 2 women up for top; women turned back at 5900m because Schluga slipped on fixed rope & burned her hand. Habeler continued up to top at 11:05 am; passed through French C3 where Lhakpa Sherpa gave him tea. 2 members of this [French] team went very slowly to top later. Habeler left top at 11:15 am & back in C1 1:15 pm, where met his 2 woman members & went down to BC with them at 4:30 pm. "Beautiful climbing" & well roped by Kammerlander & Burgess; quite easy to round trip from C1 if well acclimatized & going strong.

  21st Eckhardt & BC to C1, 22nd C1 to C3 (Swiss) & to top on 23rd with 2 Swiss & 1 German (Schleypen) & slept in C2.

  No more strong members.


expid: AMAD95303
peakid: AMAD
year: 1995
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Gilles Marcaud
sponsor: French Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 166,170
bcdate: 1995-10-06
smtdate: 1995-10-17
termdate: 1995-10-22
campsites: BC(06/10,4650m),C1(09/10,5600m),C2(15/10,6000m),C3(16/10,6350m),Smt(17,20/10)
accidents: Raymond altitude sickness 7th Oct (used Gamov bag & recovered)
agency: Tip & Top Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at lower than normal site which was "too busy."

  Hubert had altitude bad night of 16th (very cold) & did not join 17th summit push.


expid: AMAD95315
peakid: AMAD
year: 1995
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Raymand Angeloz
sponsor: Swiss-French Team on Ama Dablam
ascent1: 182 w/Cormier
countries: France
bcdate: 1995-10-31
smtdate: 1995-11-08
termdate: 1995-11-11
campsites: BC(31/10,4500m),C1(06/11,5800m),C3(07/11,6380m),Smt(08/11)
accidents: None
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at beginning of ridge
  C3 on ridge.

  2m new snow fell at BC from 9th Nov 12:00 noon to 10th 10:00 pm; now very cold on mountain; strong wind night of 7th but 8th no wind.


expid: CHOY95307
peakid: CHOY
year: 1995
route1: W side 'W Corner'
nation: Spain
leaders: Francisco Jose Perez
sponsor: Spanish Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 185,187,194
countries: France
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1995-09-12
smtdate: 1995-10-01
campsites: BC(12/09,5700m),ABC(14/09,6400m),C1(20/09,7000m),C2(24/09,7400m),Smt(01-02,13/10)
accidents: 3 members with frostbite that will heal; 1 hypothermia but OK
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  29th Sept & 4th Oct Perez tried for top but 1st attempt stopped at 7400m by new snow falling & 2nd at 7600m, both times with 2 members who got some frostbite.

  Summit Sherpas: 
    Gyalbu, summited Everest in 1991 & 1993, but his first time on top Cho Oyu
    Ang Kami (Khumjung), this his 1st 8000er

  Gomez, Alvarez, etc. summited with Czech (Novak) team on 2 Oct.

  Miss Delrieu summited with French (Peronne) team on 13 Oct.


expid: CHOY95311
peakid: CHOY
year: 1995
route1: W side from N
nation: France
leaders: Christian Peronne
sponsor: Expedition Canigou Cho Oyu 1995
ascent1: 193,194
countries: Andorra
bcdate: 1995-09-26
smtdate: 1995-10-10
smttime: 1200
termdate: 1995-10-17
campsites: BC(26/09),ABC(29/09,5700m),C1(02/10,6300m),C2(05/10,7000m),C3(09/10,7400m),Smt(10,13/10)
accidents: Desplan cerebral edema after ascent; 2 members & Ang Rita's son frostbitten toes & fingers
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  10th Oct one member to top; left C3 6 am & arrived at summit 12:00 & down to C2 at 3 pm (without oxygen). 

  13th Oct 3 summiters left C3 at 8:30 am & 2:30 pm on top & to C2 at 4 pm; this Desplan's 3rd summit bid: had tried with Spaniards twice before on 24th Sept & 6th Oct (reached 7700m both times - 24th snow, 6th cold winds). 

  On 12th another attempt by 3 members and Ang Rita's son (Chhewang Dorje) to 8000m and back because of strong wind and very cold as on 6th.


expid: CHOY95301
peakid: CHOY
year: 1995
route1: W side (direct line)
nation: Japan
leaders: Toshio Kutsuzawa
sponsor: Hosei University Cho Oyu Expedition 1995
ascent1: 175,177
countries: Australia
approach: By road->BC
bcdate: 1995-09-07
smtdate: 1995-09-25
termdate: 1995-10-01
campsites: TempBC(01/09,4800m),BC(07/09,5700m),C1(11/09,6000m),C2(13/09,7100m),C3(24/09,7600m),Smt(25-26/09)
accidents: None
agency: Rolwaling Trek
routememo:
  Summit Sherpas:
      25th: Dawa Tshering
            Nawang Tenzing (1st 8000er)
            Dawa Tashi (Ev. only before)
            Ang Phurba, 48 yrs
           
      26th: Ang Temba
            Tendar, 22 (1st 8000er)
            Nawang Sakya 


expid: CHOY95302
peakid: CHOY
year: 1995
route1: NNW Ridge (to 6400m)
route2: W side (direct line)
nation: Croatia
leaders: Darko Berljak
sponsor: First Croatian Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent2: 176,179,180
countries: Germany, Slovenia
bcdate: 1995-09-08
smtdate: 1995-09-25
termdate: 1995-09-30
campsites: BC(08/09),ABC(10/09,5550m),C1(14/09,6200m),C2(15/09,6800m),C3(22/09,7400m),Smt(25,28-29/09)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  Stremfelj first went to Palung La to attempt same NNW Ridge attempted by Germans but at 6400m 3 avalanches came down & obviously too dangerous, so left for normal route.


expid: CHOY95303
peakid: CHOY
year: 1995
route1: W side from N
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Rob Hall
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Cho Oyu Expedition 1995
ascent1: 178
countries: Australia, Japan, USA
bcdate: 1995-09-08
smtdate: 1995-09-26
termdate: 1995-09-29
campsites: BC(08/09),ABC(11/09,5700m),C1(14/09,6400m),C2(17/09,7150m),Smt(26/09)
accidents: Ono had flu 8 days
achievment: 1st woman to top twice
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  In summit bid, Keaton turned back because toes freezing, Ono exhaustion and Chuldim (Khumjung) to look after them.

  Guy Cotter sent fax from Lhasa hotel about bomb explosion & seeing army vehicles speeding down street, was arrested on 5th Sept and deported to KTM on 9th. Was intensively interrogated and forced to confess he had committed a crime; all this was video-taped as was his deportation.

  Sherpa Summiters:
    Ang Dorje (aka Chuldin) from Pangboche
    Norbu (aka Nuru) from Rolwaling
  Both climbed Everest with Hall's expedition.

  Did not attempt Xixabangma as planned because the 2 clients who had originally wanted to did not summit Cho Oyu & were no longer interested in Xixabangma.


expid: CHOY95309
peakid: CHOY
year: 1995
route1: W side from N
nation: USA
leaders: Peter Athans
sponsor: Cho Oyu 1995
ascent1: 189,191
countries: S Africa
bcdate: 1995-09-18
smtdate: 1995-10-04
campsites: BC(18/09,4875m),ABC(22/09,5760m),C1(26/09,6430m),C2(28/09,7070m),Smt(04,07/10)
accidents: Wood serious frostbite; Helenek never to BC because of kidney stones
achievment: 1st South African summiter
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  After 28th Sept, down to rest at ABC. On 4th Oct made summit attempt attempt by Athans, Prittie, Woods, Lhakpa Rita and Dawa reached 7900m; windy and cold, so back to C2. 7th same 5 people tried again in warmer and calmer weather.

  Summit Sherpas:
    Dawa Sherpa, 1st 8000er, 28 yrs, born in Sikkim, lives in KTM, 2 April 67
    Lhakpa Rita, Thami, Everest X3

  Lhakpa Rita summited on 4th Oct with Italian Sicouri and his guide. Athans, Woods, Prittie, Dawa and Lhakpa Rita went for top, reached 7700m and all turned back except Lhakpa Rita when Woods got very cold and since he was client, guides descended with him to C2. Lhakpa Rita was ahead and kept on going, caught up with Sicouri and guide and went to top with them - descended to C2 to join his party, then down to ABC for Nepali food and rejoined party on 6th (Dawa down to ABC too & up on 6th).

  Woods had parts of some fingers amputated after returning home.


expid: CHOY95312
peakid: CHOY
year: 1995
route1: W side from N
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Michel Parent
sponsor: French Team to Cho Oyu
bcdate: 1995-10-02
smtdate: 1995-10-10
termdate: 1995-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m because cold weather and too difficult for clients
campsites: BC(02/10,5550m),C1(05/10,6300m),C2(06/10,7000m),C3(09/10,7500m),xxx(10/10,8000m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  High point at 100m below plateau. 

  10 Oct starts for top; at 8000m Sherpas, who were ahead, stopped because dangerous to continue in strong wind & very cold temperature (-40 degrees) - danger from frostbite. 

  Next day no wind but French tried. On 15th decided climb finished because too difficult for older members, Escoffier too slow with limp from '89 accident & 2 youngest members had no previous Himalaya experience. Besides felt weather becoming colder & windier. Good snow conditions, no avalanches.

accidents:
  Escoffier and Dorje slightly frostbitten toes; Jaun got edema at Tingri and returned to KTM before reaching BC


expid: CHOY95308
peakid: CHOY
year: 1995
route1: W side from N (direct)
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Jiri Novak
sponsor: International Expedition Cho Oyu
ascent1: 187,188,190,192
countries: Slovakia
bcdate: 1995-09-12
smtdate: 1995-10-02
campsites: BC(12/09),ABC(16/09,5860m),C1(19/09,6200m),C2(25/09,7100m),C3(01/10,7600m),Smt(02-03,06,08/10)
accidents: None amongst climbers
agency: Everest Adventure
routememo:
  1st time climbing on Himalaya by all climbing members except Mysik (Makalu) & Srovnal (Nanda Devi & Manaslu N).

  Drda and Mysik summited with Spanish (Perez) team.


expid: CHOY95304
peakid: CHOY
year: 1995
route1: W side from N
nation: Japan
leaders: Yoshio Maruyama
sponsor: Akita Cho Oyu Expedition 1995
ascent1: 182,184
bcdate: 1995-09-11
smtdate: 1995-09-29
smttime: 1530
termdate: 1995-10-04
campsites: TempBC(07/09),BC(11/09,4950m),C1(15/09,6400m),C2(20/09,7000m),C3(28/09,7600m),Smt(29/09,01/10)
accidents: None
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Ueno and Man Bahadur Gurung to top from C2; left C2 3:00 am and on top 3:40 pm for "challenge"; Ito, Sawataishi, etc. left 5:50 am and on top 3:30 pm.

  Nepalese summiters:
    Ang Gyalzen, who climbed Everest in 1992
    Man Bahadur Gurung, from Sankhuwasabha
    Pasang Kami, 22, from Kharikhola, climbed Everest twice
    Na Temba, Kharikhola, 37 yrs old


expid: CHOY95305
peakid: CHOY
year: 1995
route1: W side 'W Corner'
nation: UK
leaders: Jonathan Tinker
sponsor: OTT (Out There Trekking) Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 186
countries: France, Iceland, Israel, Russia, USA
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1995-09-11
smtdate: 1995-10-02
termdate: 1995-10-09
campsites: BC(11/09),ABC(15/09,5800m),C1(17/09,6400m),C2(21/09,7000m),C3(25/09,7500m),Smt(02/10)
accidents: None
agency: Amtrek
routememo:
  3rd summit attempt on 4th, but winds caused failure. 

  30th Sept the 3 independent Americans (Saiget, Kittleman and Briggs) tried for top and got to about 8000m and turned back when Kittleman became dizzy. Saiget left team early after this attempt; left 4-5 Oct.

  Amercian trio were completely independent team above ABC with own tents, food, etc; had no Sherpas or oxygen.


expid: CHOY95306
peakid: CHOY
year: 1995
route1: W side from N (direct line)
nation: Italy
leaders: Pierre Sicouri
ascent1: 181,189 w/USA-SAfr
countries: Russia
bcdate: 1995-09-11
smtdate: 1995-09-28
termdate: 1995-10-07
campsites: BC(11/09),ABC(13/09,5600m),C1(16/09,6400m),C2(20/09,7000m),C3(28/09,7400m),Smt(28/09,04/10)
accidents: Passino felt sick & left early
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at road
  C3 as same as others expeditions.

  Lhakpa Rita was with American-S African expedition led by Todd Burleson & Peter Athans (summited with Italians on 4 Oct 95).

  Ianotchkine thinks Buccella & Clavel did not reach true summit. They said they saw nothing from their top & description of climb suggested to him they were not on actual summit.


expid: GAUR95301
peakid: GAUR
year: 1995
route1: S Face-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Nicholas Harper
sponsor: British Gaurishankar Expedition 1995
approach: Charikot->Rolwaling Valley->Gyabrug (W of Beding)
bcdate: 1995-09-24
smtdate: 1995-10-29
termdate: 1995-11-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6333m due to lack of resources
othersmts: Summited Dolma Kang (Tseringma Peak)(DOLM-953-01)
campsites: BC(24/09,4900m),ABC(30/09,5100m),Biv(10/10,5600m),Biv2(25/10,5800m),xxx(29/10,6333m)
accidents: Wilson hit by falling stone in 1st biv in tent
agency: Himalayan Excursions
routememo:
  ABC just north of BC
  Biv 1 at east side of SE Ridge which is really a series of ridges on face
  Biv 2 at same on C1
  High point at point 6333m (Dolma Kang).

  Before reaching Gyabrug did reach up Tungmarnang Valley to 4000m for across route, but too steep for porters to go beyond and too far from mountain. On to Gyabrug and up Jamoi Gul Chhu and W to halfway between "N" of Rolwaling on Schneider Rolwaling map and Ramdung. Wanted to climb SE Ridge to S Summit only (4-5 days from S to N Summit) and this too much to try to cope with. Stopped at 6333m because had run out of resources (e.g., fixed ropes, strong climbers, places to put bivs.). Fixed rope almost all the way from ABC to 2nd biv and Pt 6333m because had no fixed camps.


expid: ANN195301
peakid: ANN1
year: 1995
route1: S Face (Bonington rte)
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Christophe Lafaille
sponsor: Annapurna 1995
bcdate: 1995-09-19
smtdate: 1995-10-13
termdate: 1995-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to bad snow conditions
accidents: Nothing
agency: Thamserku Trekking
campsites:
  BC(19/09,4600m),ABC(21/09,4900m),C1(23/09,6200m),Biv1(11/10,6800m),Biv2(12/10,7100m),xxx(13/10,7600m)

routememo:
  BC at end of trail to South Annapurna Glacier
  High point at South Face.

  From 23 Sept's C1, Lafaille climbed alone with small tent to 6800m on 11th Oct; on 12th Oct to 7100-7200m & 13th Oct to 7600m, finding difficulties, tired, not well acclimatized & lot of snow, so down to BC; new snow falls. 17th up to C1, stayed 2-1/2 days but impossible to continue with snow & cloud every afternoon; reached 6300m in waist deep snow & down from C1 on 20th; climb finished.

  Lafaille: "I'm angry to stop at 7600m but it's a game" - fixed rope to C1 climbed entirely alone - "very nice route, not very dangerous, interesting route."


expid: MANA95301
peakid: MANA
year: 1995
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Ken Kanazawa
sponsor: Kathmandu Club Manaslu 1995 Expedition
bcdate: 1995-09-19
smtdate: 1995-10-13
termdate: 1995-10-19
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(19/09,4800m),C1(25/09,5900m),C2(04/10,6300m),C3(11/10,7150m),xxx(13/10,7400m)
accidents: 1 member's knee cut a little by avalanche
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at normal place
  C1 at 200m above Naiki Col at top of black rock
  C3 on NE Face under snow apron
  High point at near plateau.

  Many avalanches. 1st attempt for top 13 Oct to 7400m & back because slab avalanches. Next attempt 17th reached C2 & back to C1 because heavy snow, with biv under black rock at 5800m & to BC 18th & climb finished.


expid: ANN395301
peakid: ANN3
year: 1995
route1: NW Ridge from SW (Japanese 1970 rte)
nation: Japan
leaders: Tsutomu Saito
sponsor: Sapporo Hokuryo Alpine Club Annapurna III Expedition
ascent1: 10th
approach: Modi Khola & W side of Annnpurna III S Ridge
bcdate: 1995-09-09
smtdate: 1995-10-02
campsites: BC(09/09,4050m),C1(12/09,4900m),C2(17/09,5400m),C3(26/09,6000m),C4(01/10,6600m),Smt(02/10)
accidents: Maejimo altitude sickness prevented his climbing above C1 (not serious)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC northeast of Machhapuchhare BC
  C1 on rocky slope 
  C2 on steep ridge
  C3 on small platform on SW Face
  C4 just below NW Ridge
  High point at C4.

  To C2 from C1 steep snow rounded ridge and small icefalls. C2 to C3 same. C3 up steep face to C4, 150m below NW Ridge. On 4th Oct Kato and Maguro made summit bid but could not go above C4 in strong wind.


expid: LSHR86302
peakid: LSHR
year: 1986
route1: SE Ridge-SE Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Anton (Toni) Spirig
approach: Jiri->Chhukung Valley
bcdate: 1986-09-21
smtdate: 1986-10-21
termdate: 1986-10-23
termnote: Abandoned at 8050m due to strong winds
campsites: BC(21/09,5350m),ABC(24/09,5750m),C1(04/10,6750m),C2(20/10,7250m),xxx(21/10,8050m)
accidents: None
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at west side of Lhotse Shar Glacier
  High point at snow dome.

  Left tent at 610om on 25th Sept because of soft snow above and new snow falling and returned to BC same day. On 3rd Oct regaining 6100m and slept there. 4th to 6750m and slept there in same tent that had been at 6100m. 5th weather threatened more snowfall, so left tent at 6750m and returned to BC that day. On 14th Oct tried to reach 6750m but only got to 6700m and back to BC because heavy snowfall (waist-deep snow) and avalanche danger. Last summit bid left BC 18th to ABC, 19th Oct to 6750m where tent was there but poles broken (used ski poles). 20th to 7250m in "stormy wind" with wind-blown chunks of snow coming down. 21 Oct Fuster alone up to 8050m at 11 am and then wind trying to blow him off.

  Not technically difficult by alpine standards but were two 80-degree steps of 20m which were only places they fixed rope. Were on same route as 1970 spring Austrian team.

  Calendar of Events:

  1 Sep     : Arrival in KTM
  9 Sep     : Bus trip to Jiri

  10 Sep    : Approach march with 20 local porters in 8 days up to Namche 
              Bazar and then with 7 yaks and 4 local porters in 4 days to BC

  21 Sep    : BC established at 5350m on the moraine between Lhotse Shar Glacier 
              and Island Peak

  22 Sep    : Liaison officer, Krishna Napit, left BC because of high
              altitude sickness. He stayed the whole time after in Namche.

  22-24 Sep : transport of equipment and food over the rocky spur to 5750m and 
              established ABC (by Spirig/Steininger)

  25 Sep    : Reconnoitre of route up to 6100m. Left one tent and some equipment 
              there, then installed a fixed rope over first step (Spirig/Steininger)

  27 Sep    : 1st attempt by Fuster/Spirig
              after one night in heavy snowfall up in ABC, we climbed down to BC
              again. Avalanche danger was too high to continue

  2-5 Oct   : 2nd attempt by Fuster/Spirig
              1st day: Up to ABC, where we found our deposited tent
                       damaged and food supplies stolen by ravens.
              2nd day: reconnoitre of route up to 6500m and installing a fixed 
                       rope over the second step (20m). We spent night at 6100m
              3rd day: We climbed up to 6750m and spent one night up there.
              4th day: With signs of bad weather we decided to climb down to BC

  13-14 Oct : 3rd attempt by Fuster/Spirig
              1st day: Up to ABC
              2nd day: Up to 6700m - a day of mostly strenous trail-breaking with  
                       weather getting bad again. So we decided to climb down to BC.
                    
  18-22 Oct : 4th attempt by Fuster/Spirig
              1st day: Up to ABC (5750m)

              2nd day: Up to C1 at 6750m. There we found the tent badly damaged by 
              avalanche snow. Both poles were broken and  the outer skin got some
              holes (of ravens and avlanche). We spent hours for clearing snow from
              the tent and repairing tent poles using tubes of the ski poles.

              3rd day: Up to 7250m and established C2. Weather was clear, but very
              windy. We had to find a well protected spot for the damaged tent.
              So we found an overhanging Serac, which gave us enough protection
              from the destroying wind gales.

  21 Oct    : Because of my still present illness, I decided to stay at C2. 
      
              Beda Fuster started at 4:30 am alone for the summit. At 11:00 am, he
              reached the snow dome, in about 8050m. But here, the wind gusts got 
              too strong for continuing over the small ridge to the summit slopes.

              Avoiding frostbite and exposure, he had to turn back, only 350m below 
              the summit. We stayed one more night in C2 and descended the next day
              to BC.
                
              We made the decision to abandon because of:
              - expecting storms with continue
              - my illness, which I caught on the approach 
              - shortage in time

  23 Oct    : We left BC with 4 yaks and started the walk out to Namche Bazaar 
              (3 days).

              From Namche we walked with 6 porters in one day to Lukla. Liaison 
              officer got there a flight to KTM. There were no seats available
              in the planes the next days, so we had to walk out to Jiri.

  3 Nov     : Departure from KTM


expid: DORJ95301
peakid: DORJ
year: 1995
route1: W Ridge from S
nation: UK
leaders: Gerard Campion
sponsor: Yorkshire Ramblers Club Dorje Lhakpa Expedition
approach: Orad->Chitaura; trekked->Panch Pokhari then across the 5 lakes
bcdate: 1995-10-13
smtdate: 1995-10-25
termdate: 1995-10-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6250m due to unstable nature of snow conditions
campsites: BC(13/10,4500m),ABC(14/10,4700m),C1(16/10,5200m),C2(23/10,6200m),xxx(25/10,6250m)
accidents: None
agency: Malla Treks
routememo:
  ABC near lake
  C1  at Tilman's Col East
  C2  on West Ridge
  High point on West Ridge.

  Chose route because seldom used and gave sunny BC. Stopped at 6250m because snow slabs on south side and cornices on north side and ridge itself so sharp that impossible to move on it crest and both sides slopes 55 degrees. High point reached on 25 Oct by Muir and Newman and their judgement not to continue was taken as decision to abandon climb. Fixed rope at 5700-5800m steep sections of lower ridge. Challenging technical climb especially with snow conditions as they were.

  Left from BC via Tempathang from Panch Pokhari for variety and Tempathang was nearest village where could get chickens and other food.


expid: GIMM93301
peakid: GIMM
year: 1993
route1: E Ridge-E Summit from N
nation: Japan
leaders: Tsuguyasu Itami
sponsor: Meiji Gakuin Univ Sikkim Himalaya Expedition
countries: India
bcdate: 1993-09-23
smtdate: 1993-10-09
termnote: Abandoned at 7320m due to accident attempting Main summit
othersmts: Climbed Gimmigela Chuli East (GIME-933-01)
accidents: Sato fell into crevasse
agency: None
campsites:
  BC(23/09,4930m),C1(25/09,5200m),C2(27/09,5800m),C3(6500m),C4(09/10,6900m),ESmt(13/10,7007m),C5,xxx(18/10,7320m)

routememo:
  Masanori Sato in Sept reached highest point, 30m from main summit, fell into crevasse and could not be gotten out; died after 30 minutes.

  Sato was member of Japan-China-Nepal 1988 Everest expedition and reached S Col.


expid: AMAD84402
peakid: AMAD
year: 1984
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Alan Burgess
sponsor: Canadian Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: USA
bcdate: 1984-11-30
smtdate: 1984-12-16
termdate: 1984-12-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to bad weather and shortage of supplies
campsites: BC(30/11,4600m),C1(01/12,5800m),Biv(04/12,6100m),xxx(16/12,6400m)
accidents: No accidents, frostbite or serious illness
routememo:
  C1 was assault camp from which tried alpine-style ascent; just dry walk to C1. Took 4 days food on 3rd Dec (all 3 members and Pema Dorje) to C1. 4th all 4 up to C2 site of other expedition on ridge and bived at Yellow Tower at 20,000 ft after lot of horizontal climbing on rock. 5th all 4 set out to climb 2nd tower to get serac plateau, but in winter short day realized couldn't get to plateau, no campsite short of it (moving too slowly because Pema Dorje not competent enough), so returned to C2 and 6th to BC.

  Went to Pheriche for fixed rope to put in above C2 and on 13th 3 foreigners to C1; that evening snowed. 15th 3 men to C2 with rope quickly. 15th fixed rope to 21,000 ft to beginning of knife-edge ridge and thus short of C3 site, so down to C2 intending to summit on 18th but wind got worse and after 3 nights in C2 running out of food and big clouds coming in, so down to BC on 19th. Winds blowing chunks of rock, it was so strong.


expid: PUMO84401
peakid: PUMO
year: 1984
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Steve Jorgenson
sponsor: American Winter Expedition Pumori 1984
ascent1: 20th
bcdate: 1984-12-01
smtdate: 1984-12-13
smttime: 1000
achievment: 1st Australian on mountain
campsites:
  BC(01/12,5350m),C1(04/12,5640m),C2(07/12,6100m),Biv1(10/12,6400m),Biv2(11/12,6640m),Biv3(12/12,6980m),Smt(13/12),Biv4(13/12,7000m)

routememo:
  BC   at planned site
  C2   at top of ridge Fox and Jorgenson carried loads to C2 
  Biv1 at top of towers on ridge
  Biv2 at snow parts behind ridge
  Biv3 at summit snowfields.

  C2 first occupied on 8th where Fox and Jorgenson to C1 and on 9th back to C2 in carry of loads with Murray carrying personal gear to stay with Richard Wilson and Richard Pierce who had rested in C2 that day. Fox and Jorgenson arrived first and said Fox had not been feeling well and fearing fall as result of dizziness and illness decided to stop climb. This changed Jorgenson's feelings because Fox his climbing partner and Jorgenson not strong enough to climb (had decided to quit on 8th). Volunteered support as high as C2 but not through rock towers and Pierce and Wilson wanted to go on and would climb with bivs above C2 and Fox and Jorgenson to go up to accompany them in their descent. Fox and Jorgenson to BC on 9th. Murray on 9th dropped gear along route upwards and finally gave up and descended too.


  Haid, Austria leader - 9 June 85

  Think Americans made summit and fell before returning to their camp at 6550m. Austrians put their C3 at same site, found Americans tent crushed by snow/ice. Cut open tent, found sleeping bags, rucksack and film inside rucksack. No bodies seen.


  Letter from Stefan Goldberg - 28 March 1985

  Last week Namkha Sherpa, from the Pheriche clinic, and I walked up the Shangri (Khangri) Nup Glacier to look at the Face and summit of Pumori to search for signs of two American climbers who disappeared this winter. We believe we saw them near the summit, two bodies huddled together, one in red, the other in blue or green, tied to a red rope that reaches toward the summit ridge, as pictured here. We used Namkha's binoculars - 7450m wide angle 578 flat 1000 yards. He saw them best and I'm confident in his finding since he found the lost Swiss trekkers this November high on a snow field from several miles away. (We later saw a third body, in the middle of the East face, from the Khumbu Glacier, this one with dark pants and a rust colored parka. I doubt this one is from the American expedition; Namkha says about 10 people have died on Pumori). From Pumori base camp and Gorak Shep we could not see the bodies near the summit due to the convex curve of the mountain, but we did see them though indistinctly from Lobuche.

  I am told members of the Austrian Pumori expedition are in Namche row; I will look for them and give them a copy of this picture. Hopefully they will be able to at least photograph and obtain items from these two climbers, to confirm their identity. I am sending this same picture and information to Steve Blake, the American Consul and to Steve Jorgensen the expedition leader. I hope it helps clarify the fate of these two climbers, especially for their families. 


  Murray - 24 Dec 1984

  Into darkness - could see Wilson remove his pack just at dark at about 22,800 ft presumably to search for suitable biv site and both move on for a rocky outcrop in snow surroundings. On 12th 7:00 pm pre-arranged contact they gave flash light signals indicating foing for top next day. Were close to 23,000 ft. Seems to have exposed biv site though might have made a snowhole. Pierce seemed not to have backpack either.

  13th seen leaving biv site in fierce wind but clear; very turbulent wind. Wilson lead over final summit hump moving well; could see them for 15-20 minutes. Again at about 9:45 am with backs to watcher at rather than Wilson in lead; may have gone back forgotten camera and they gone up twice to top or perhaps actually front painting down; probably going up, but Phu Tshering Sherpa thought coming down and claimed they reached biv site if coming down and reached snowhole and never came out. Don't think they actually came to biv site but were going to top and blown off north side. Not a creeping malaise that could have taken both of them. A slip could have taken down, East or West Face. Wilson's pack is still there.

  13th night bad weather set in; light dusting of snow above 16,000 ft but not very bad wind.

  14th cloud covered mountain till 10:00 am; could see pack in place then but men could just been out of sight.

  15th should have reappeared at top of rock towers. O'Brien went north direction and Murray to south to see West Face in case descended easier route on this face. Neither saw no trace. Jorgenson went to C1 to get a tent and all returned to BC 15th. Murray and O'Brien went to Lobuche to radio request for helicopter.

  11th radio-messaged to Kathmandu while rest of team evacuated BC and went down towards LUK

  Jorgenson had said expedition was to put Fox on summit and when Fox quit, Jorgenson too quit regardless of others; thus left Wilson and Pierce unsupported.

  17th realized no helicopter, Murray and O'Brien went to Namche. Oon 10th caught up with expedition at Namche and received message $3000 cost. Jorgensen via LO said winds too strong.

accidents:
  Cough and viral infections; Taylor dropped out before BC with pneumonia and O'Brien took his place; Wilson and Pierce disappeared on descent from summit after bivouac at 7000m


expid: KGUR95301
peakid: KGUR
year: 1995
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Gilles Buisson
sponsor: Atalante Kang Guru Expedition 1995
approach: Marshyangdi->Kodo->North->Naur->Meta Village
bcdate: 1995-10-25
smtdate: 1995-10-31
termdate: 1995-11-02
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to lack of time
campsites: BC(25/10,4200m),C1(27/10,5300m),C2(30/10,5800m),xxx(31/10,5900m)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  BC east of Meta village, Phu Khola
  C1 on moraine near very small lake
  C2 on SW Ridge
  High point on SW Ridge.

  "Not difficult & very nice summit," but BC to C1 is very long day. Ridge was very icy. Stopped climb on 31 Oct because very windy and cloudy and that afternoon it snowed so all in C2 down to C1 and climb finished. But with 5 more days time could have rested one day at BC and done slowly through camps to summit. Not very difficult.


expid: ANN295301
peakid: ANN2
year: 1995
route1: NW Ridge of Annapurna IV
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Slobodan Gejo
sponsor: Himalayan Expedition of Nis
approach: Marshyangdi->Hongde->Sabje Khola
bcdate: 1995-10-15
smtdate: 1995-10-27
termdate: 1995-10-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6483m due to strong winds & lack of time
campsites: BC(15/10,4600m),C1(23/10,5600m),C2(27/10,6483m),xxx(27/10,6483m)
accidents: None
agency: Himalayan Waves
routememo:
  BC at normal site for Annapurna IV and II BC
  C1 on North Ridge of Annapurna IV
  C2 at plateau shown on German Annapurna map - on north or northwest.

  28th down because weather changed: black clouds & strong wind & heavy snowfall all night & all tents had been covered by much snow. Down to BC & climb finished. This team and German-US Annapurna IV team arrived at BC same day & climbed together & remaining members left BC 30 Oct.


  Calonica of US - 14 Nov 95 

  German Annapurna IV expedition calls these Yugoslavs "likeable parasites" to climb. Learned it was German-USA team & took permit for Annapurna II to follow them, use their fixed ropes & climb on their backs. Gejo was fairly good climber but another two were sick.


expid: ANN495301
peakid: ANN4
year: 1995
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Pavel Dolecek
sponsor: Annapurna IV Friendship Expedition
countries: USA
approach: Marshyangdi->Hongde->Sabje Khola
bcdate: 1995-10-15
smtdate: 1995-10-25
termdate: 1995-10-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6483m due to dangerous snow conditions
campsites: BC(15/10,4600m),C1(24/10,5600m),xxx(25/10,6483m)
accidents: Dolecek altitude sickness (pulmonary edema)
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  C1 on North Ridge of Annapurna IV.

  C2 pitched but never stayed there: back to C1 on 25th, next 2 days spent fixing last fixed ropes below C2 and 27th when whole face's soft snow started shifting and sinking like an earthquake roller coaster wave, then whole thing settled - were windslabs above and could see windslab factures above (face was small face just below plateau). Many crevasses below plateau. Then saw strong clouds coming in, weather changing. Too dangerous to stay on mountain.

  Doleceks left early because of incompetance and fever; altitude sickness faked [as reported by other team members].


expid: CHOL95301
peakid: CHOL
year: 1995
route1: N Face (1400m high)
nation: France
leaders: Paul Robach
sponsor: French Cholatse 1995
ascent1: 13th
bcdate: 1995-10-09
smtdate: 1995-10-26
smttime: 1300
termdate: 1995-11-01
campsites: BC(09/10,4750m),Biv1(23/10,5900m),Biv2(24/10,6150m),Smt(26/10)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Pabil Treks
routememo:
  BC below and south of Dzangka
  Biv 1 on North Face
  Biv 2 on North Face in ice flutes 70 degrees.

  From BC reached first snow slopes in 2 hours. No fixed camps but spent 3 nights in uncomfortable bivouac. Fixed 600m rope near start of climb to 5600m & put 1st biv at 5900m. Hard to put tent at 1st biv because hard ice or rock below snow; from here went up next day only to 6150m because had late morning start. 25th 2 members fixed one pitch only (80m) of mixed climbing while other three members rested. 26th started for top: last wall didn't climb but traversed over to NW Ridge from 6200m point on face & all 5 members on summit at 1 pm & returned to biv at 6:15 pm to sleep. 27th rapelled entire face & back to BC. Was safe route with no seracs or rock fall but about 8:00 am sun hits mushroom which let off small avalanches only. Clear weather without wind.


expid: PASA95301
peakid: PASA
year: 1995
route1: W Face-NNW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Ro Im-Jun
sponsor: 1995 Korea-Nepal Pasang Lhamu Peak Joint Expedition
bcdate: 1995-09-22
smtdate: 1995-10-04
termdate: 1995-10-08
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to difficult route for inexperienced climbers & wind and no more time
campsites: BC(22/09,5200m),ABC(23/09,5300m),C1(26/09,5900m),C2(28/09,6200m),C3(01/10,6500m),xxx(04/10,7000m)
accidents: 100m fall in avalanche by Ang Mingma, not hurt but lost gloves & ax
achievment: 1st attempt on mountain
agency: Mt. Fuji Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at Kangchung south of Nangpa La
  ABC north of BC on glacier
  C1  on ice and rock face
  C2  on ice and rock face
  C3  on top of this face on ridge.

  To C1 very steep ice & rock face; to C2 many ice towers. 4th Oct attacked summit but needed more rope; rope in BC and members had no time to fetch rope. On 5th same 2 members [Kim and Choung] & 2 Sherpas again tried from C3. Ridge was rock ridge, very sharp but not steep - much wind. On 5th reached 7000m at 3:00 pm. Sherpas to ABC at 9 pm & 2 members slept in C2 at 6 pm (did not bivouac as per Tourism Ministry report). Were 3 peaks for team to climb; they went over 1st & 2nd but would have to go down first & then up on highest of 3 peaks. 7000m high point was 2nd peak; beyond was "big hole" to 3rd peak & very deep snow.

  Leader wants to bring expedition again this winter with different members.


expid: CHOP95301
peakid: CHOP
year: 1995
route1: Intended N Ridge from W
nation: Japan
leaders: Kazuyoshi Yamagata
sponsor: Cho Polu Fukuoka Mountaineering Group 1995
bcdate: 1995-10-18
smtdate: 1995-10-18
termdate: 1995-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 5300m due to danger of falling seracs
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (from same BC)
campsites: BC(18/10,5293m),xxx(22/10,5300m)
accidents: Nothing serious (Hata altitude sickness kept him from summiting Island Peak but not seriously ill)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC on point 5293m of National Geographic map, west side of Lhotse Shar Glacier
  High point at east side of Lhotse Shar Glacier.

  On 22 Oct Kudo and Takata & 3 guides (Nepalis) from BC to search route to Cho Polu & crossed Lhotse Shar Glacier to see west side of N Ridge, but found section north of Pt 6183 on ridge dangerous from falling seracs & section south of that point large seracs. Mountain "very beautiful." Made no attempt to climb above glacier but returned to BC same day. Did not try other apporach, via SW Ridge because very difficult; so instead asked for permit for Island Peak & climbed it instead.

  Climb via NE Face from Barun Glacier should be easy but this team had no time for long trek around to there.

  Success on Cho Polu was claimed, then later retracted.


expid: BARU95303
peakid: BARU
year: 1995
route1: SE Ridge from E
nation: UK
leaders: Allan Pilkington
sponsor: Baruntse SE Ridge Lightweight Expedition Autumn 1995
bcdate: 1995-10-24
smtdate: 1995-11-02
termdate: 1995-11-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6150m due to deep snow, lack of acclimatization and lack of time
campsites: TempBC(22/10,5200),BC(24/10,5200m),ABC(27/10,5600m),C1(01/11,6100m),xxx(02/11,6150m)
accidents: Nothing serious but members never acclimatized well
agency: Himalayan Sherpa Nepal
routememo:
  TBC at junction of Barun Glacier and glacier from East Col
  ABC at snout of East Col's glacier
  C1 at West Col
  High point at 6200m just above North Col     

  East Col= Col at 6100m opposite to West Col across lower Barun Glacier.

  Pilkington tried to carry to E Col but load too heavy, dumped it & got sirdar to help establish 27 Oct ABC by 3 members. Till 31st Pilkington & Sutcliffe carried loads from ABC to East Col (Jinks not acclimatizing) & both Pilkington & Sutcliffe not well enough aclimatized for alpine-stule climb. 1st Nov Sutcliffe & Pilkington moved ABC camp to E Col & made it C1. 2nd Nov, Sutcliffe not well acclimatized but Pilkington carried to W Col & made depot here. Wanted to establish camp there, but from W Col towards ridge snow too deep for progress by unacclimatized person & from W Col 25m only & back to E Col where Pilkington & Sutcliffe spent 2nd night. 3rd Nov decided level of acclimatization not good enough (Jinks only at BC now). To BC on 4th & left it 5th.


expid: DHA195301
peakid: DHA1
year: 1995
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hisayoshi Tawaraya
sponsor: Japan Team 1984 Dhaulagiri I Expedition 1995
ascent1: 76th,79th
bcdate: 1995-09-08
smtdate: 1995-10-04
termdate: 1995-10-16
campsites: BC(08/09,4700m),C1(12/09,5700m),C2(20/09,6500m),C3(03/10,7400m),Smt(04,06/10)
accidents: Tawamaya's fatal fall; Gurung frostbitten toes that will heal
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at Col
  C2 at NE Ridge.

  On 6th Oct, summit reached first by Hashimoto team, next by Kondo team & third & last by this team, whose summiters reached top 3:30 pm. Tawaraya very slow in descent at 7500m at top end of fixed rope. Tawaraya thought they not on right route & went up while Gurung, also very tired, went down to C3 at 10 pm but leader disappeared. Members searched N Face thoroughly by telescope & binoculars. 7th Oct Gurung up to 7500m but no sign of Tawaraya; Hayashi of Snow Leopards went with Gurung. Tawaraya must have fallen down N Face. Tawaraya so tired when going up from C2 that he borrowed oxygen from Hashimoto team & used it sleeping in C3 on 5th Oct night (but not on 6th in climb to top). 

  3rd summit team up from C2 to C3 on 10th Oct. 12th Oct Echigoya tried for top but retreated from wind after 30 mins. 

  Kobayashi had set out in 2nd summit team but turned back because very tired.


expid: EVER87202
peakid: EVER
year: 1987
route1: N Col
nation: W Germany/Iran
leaders: Mischa Saleki
termnote: Termination reason unknown
campsites: xxx(7000m)
agency: None
routememo:
  Reached N Col with 2 Sherpas.


  Pierre Beghin - 10 Sept 87

  Everest summer 1987 Saleki

  Went to North Col route and forbade others to enter that valley.

  Went to North Col - not above.

  2 Sherpas - one broke leg.

  Stayed always at BC, writing and filming. Sent away anyone who came into his valley.

  Made big fuss about Beghin's joining Spaniards, doing illegal climb.


expid: DHA195307
peakid: DHA1
year: 1995
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Bulgaria
leaders: Borislav Dimitrov
sponsor: Bulgarian Dhaulagiri Expedition
ascent1: 83rd-84th
countries: Belarus
bcdate: 1995-09-22
smtdate: 1995-10-12
smttime: 1300
termdate: 1995-10-19
campsites: BC(22/09,4750m),C1(26/09,5800m),C2(27/09,6600m),C3(04/10,7400m),Smt(12/10)
accidents: Vialenkova badly frostbitten feet; Lipen recovering in BC from throat operation
agency: In Wilderness (Kunga)
routememo:
  Dimitrov was faster than Shinkarenko, whom Dimitrov met in Dimitrov's descent and Shinkarenko's ascent, they climbed from C3 together for 3 hours (they left 6:30 am) and Shinkarenko on 20m below summit 1 hour after Dimitrov and Dimitrov met him there and from there they descended together; to C3, Dimitrov at 6 pm, 1 hour before Shinkarenko. In descent at 3:30 pm Dimitrov met Vialenkova and Bart Vos at 7900-7950m, told them they needed 3 more hours for top; Vos turned back here while Vialenkova said she reached top at 5:30 pm, bived under rocks at c7700m and reached C3 at 9 am of 13th (Dimitrov went to BC on 13th), C2 that afternoon (no one in C1) and C1 in evening at 11 pm crawling; doctor was in C1. 14th Oct Lipen with serious lung problem crawled from C2 to C1. Dimitrov sent Japanese Sherpa (Dawa) to C1 with oxygen for Lipen and to carry down on his back Vialenkova with help Ivanov and Petkov. Dr Ivanova had to operate on Lipen in C1 to open his nearly closed throat. 14th 2 members to top; Horozov so late he also bivouacked at 7700m with only frostnip as result; both so exhausted they reached BC in evening 18th Oct. All now in BC and Dimitrov left BC 19th with Ivanov and Dimitrov's wife because wanted to get back to Kathmandu.

  Bart Vos doubted that Vialenkova reached the top (see notes from his expedition DHA1-953-08).


  Kalina Kovacheva - May 2005

  Kovacheva sent email message to Liz Hawley stating that a recent press release by Boris Dimitrov said that Horozov and Vasilev stopped 100m short of the summit, but claimed success in order to promote sponsorship of the next expedition. At a press-conference after the climb of Shisha Pangma in 1999, Doychin Vassilev confessed that he and Karina Salova spent the night at 7995m and headed back the next day without reaching the peak.


  Boris Dimitrov - 1 June 2005

  I am writing to you on your request and demand of Kalina Kovacheva (Bulgarian publicist and writer), who is my friend. The real thing, who climbed and not Dhaulagiri in my expedition, Oct 1995, is: I myself climbed to the very top. The final ridge (100m) was comparatively difficult. And my two partners this day, Belarussian climber from another expedition [Alexander Shinkarenko] and two hours later Irina Vialenkova (also from Belarussia), they just reached and stopped at the end of the traverse, 100m (1 hour) before the top. Two days later Doychin Vassilev and Zaprian Horozov as partners reached the same place, 100m before the top (the same place as Irina). They stopped and returned back. Zaprian, very slow, spent the night outside and had mild frostbite. The two of them came down four days later, because of bad weather in camp 1 and we worried that they will not survive. 

  This expedition was my first, personally organized. I decided to change then the reality 5%, because of their wishes to lie in Bulgaria (I think, reason not for sponsorship but just for fame). I personally was satisfied with my ascent and didn't want to push them down, it could show a primitive look in our climbing society. Let them be happy, if they want to do it this way. Finally in his video, we put my static slides for the TV. I said the truth four years later, in 1999 here in the press, when Doychin started to lie about another two ascents, Cho Oyu, where he stopped one hour before the top and Shisha (Xixabangma), where they climbed to the north peak (fore-summit) with Kalina, but shouting to the press that it's the main summit. It's too much to disinform climbers and then I started to be angry with myself that on the first expedition I helped him to start changing the truth so easy. 

  If you have some more questions I'll always be happy to help and inform. Please don't be angry with my former position.


expid: DHA195302
peakid: DHA1
year: 1995
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Tsuguteru Hashimoto
sponsor: 1995 Miyazaki University Dhaulagiri I Expedition
ascent1: 77th
bcdate: 1995-09-09
smtdate: 1995-10-06
smttime: 1200
termdate: 1995-10-09
campsites: BC(09/09,4650m),C1(13/09,5700m),C2(20/09,6500m),C3(28/09,7300m),Smt(06/10)
accidents: 1 Sherpa slight frostbite to toe
agency: Himalayan Journeys
routememo:
  1st summit attempt 4th Oct reached 7600m; 4 Japanese & 1 Sherpa down because Sherpa who know route was troubled by stomach & wanted to go down, so all 5 down to C1. 

  Next attempt on 6th from C3 about 2 am in no wind & no clouds; on summit 12 noon & down to C3 4 pm. No more summit bids.


expid: DHA195306
peakid: DHA1
year: 1995
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Georgia
leaders: Gia Tortladze
sponsor: Georgian Himalayan Expedition to Dhaulagiri I
ascent1: 80th-83rd
countries: Belarus, Bulgaria, Kazakhstan
approach: Via Kali Gandaki
bcdate: 1995-09-20
smtdate: 1995-10-08
smttime: 1210
termdate: 1995-10-17
campsites: BC(20/09,4600m),C1(23/09,5700m),C2(24/09,6500m),C3(01/10,7400m),Smt(08-09,11-12/10)
accidents: Slight frostbite only
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  25th Sept to BC and rest 3 days. 29th up to C1; 4 members to C3 and again all in BC. 7th Oct start summit push from BC 4 members to C1. Boukreev 7th 6:30 from BC, 9:30 in C1, 8th Oct 5 pm. He comes down through C2 where same 4 members already arrived; he said he reached top at 12:10 pm and Bulgarian already in C3; Ratchev stopped in C3 while Boukreev in BC at 8:00-9:00 pm. 

  4 members 9th Oct into C3 and 10th stayed C3 in strong winds. 11th wind not so strong so 8 am 2 members up and 8:30 am other 2 members also start up; 2 pm and 3:30 pm they on top; 6:30 pm in BC to sleep; when going up, these 4 members met Tontchev in his descent. 

  12th Shinkarenko summited with leader of Bulgarian leader Dimitrov at 2 pm.

  24 Oct Boukreev's ascent: 7 Oct - left BC 6:30 pm (used Japanese fixed rope very little). Arrived C1 9:30 pm, C2 11:30 pm. Strong cold winds. 8th Oct left C2 2:00 am. Arrived C3 5:30 am, arrived summit 11:30 am. 8th Oct arrive C3? arrive C2 5:00 pm, arrive C1 c6:00 pm, arrive BC 7:30 pm.

  31 Oct 95 - Dutch soloist, Bart Vos, said of Boukreev: "The Russian [Kazakh] moved with his crampons like he was born with them on his feet...he used his crampons so easily, so smoothly."


  Gia Tortladze - 23 May 2005

  I met Gia Tortladze today and asked him about Dhaulagiri in 1995 as I had heard rumors that some Russians were questioning his ascent of Dhaulagiri. He was puzzled about Russians raising summit questions since there were no Russians there. After we got past that, he was sure he went to the highest summit since there was nothing higher to be seen, but ... he knew nothing about a false summit. He drew a rough sketch of the north side and northeast ridge, and showed that he had gone up the north face and gotten to the ridge at about 8050m, then followed the ridge from there to the top without having made a traverse out onto the face. 

  I think this one should perhaps be marked as disputed. I am meeting some climbers back from Dhaulagiri soon, and I'll ask whether Tortladze might have gotten on the ridge high enough so as not to have needed to make a traverse.


  2005 Italian Dhaulagiri team - May 2005

  I have met the Italians from Dhaulagiri I and they reported that their high point was the false summit at 8120m. So if this altitude is correct, Tortladze did not get onto the ridge above it (he gave his altitude at the ridge as 8050m).


  Boris Dimitrov - 1 June 2005

  Dimitrov states that Shinkarenko did not reach the summit on 12 Oct 1995 (see route notes from Dimitrov's expedition DHA1-953-07).


expid: DHA195303
peakid: DHA1
year: 1995
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Ignacio Garcia
sponsor: First Expedition of Castilla and Leon to Dhaulagiri
bcdate: 1995-09-11
smtdate: 1995-10-08
termdate: 1995-10-12
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to high winds
campsites: BC(11/09,4700m),C1(16/09,5700m),C2(23/09,6600m),C3(30/09,7400m),xxx(08/10,7700m)
accidents: None
agency: In Wilderness (Kunga)
routememo:
  Tried for summit on 1 Oct but wind prevented leaving C3, so down on 1st to BC. Cloudy for 3 days and started again 5th Oct: reached 7700m on 8th and again very windy (100 km/hr) and temperature -35 degrees C, so down and climb finished. Had only 5 days left and decided to stop.


expid: DHA195308
peakid: DHA1
year: 1995
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Bart Vos
sponsor: Dutch Dhaulagiri Expedition
bcdate: 1995-09-24
smtdate: 1995-10-12
termdate: 1995-10-18
othersmts: Climbed 7 peaks around Hidden Valley including Sita Chuchura (SITA-953-01), Tongu and Hongde
campsites: BC(24/09,4650m),Biv(27/09,5130m),C1(28/09,5775m),C2(07/10,6550m),C3(09/10,7400m),xxx(12/10,8100m)
agency: Trekking International
termnote:
  Abandoned at 8100m due to Belarussian woman who became his moral responsibility & then slightly sick

routememo:
  BC  at 1/2 hour below all other teams BC at site of 1960's
  Biv above icefall
  C1  at NE Col
  C2  on NE Ridge - tent moved to C3
  High point at North Face 50m below summit.

  Stayed several days on way to BC and below French Col of 5150m in Hidden Valley and in 8 days climbed 7 peaks: Sita Chuchura (22-3 Sept via N Face to E Ridge); Tongu Peak (18th Sept or it's S Summit - maps not clear). Hongde (16th Sept via SE Face).

  12th Oct left at C3 at 7:30-8:00 am, soon Belarussian woman Irina Vialenkova closely following him with poor equipment and no technique (bumping her head against his crampons and thus endangering his life). Vos very strong but felt responsible for her and had to turn back because she very slow ascent: they would have reached top at 6:00 pm and she had no headlamp; Vos turned back at 16:30 while she went on up 10m, then down. He was back in C3 at 17:30+. She said couldn't find end of fixed ropes and probably did biv at 7700m. Hoped to go again to top, but got sick on 13th and down to C1 14th, where food and other items stolen, and to BC 15th.

  Vos doubted that woman reached the top.


  Milja De Zwart - July 19, 2000

  A Dutch newspaper published an interview with Irina Vialenkova. She's the Russian climber, from Minsk who spent a night outside, high on the Dhaulagiri in 1995. She lost both feet, up to the ankles. Bart Vos was with her in 1995. He didn't reach the top, and when he came home, he blamed Irina for it. He said this mad woman followed him, hoping like a rabbit in his trail and stated she had no experience at all. Irina now claimed Bart Vos slow, she should have passed him, but she didn't, so she reached summit too late (that is, if she ever reached it, she lost her photo's on the way down). It was just Irina Vialenkova's story versus Bart Vos's, but the result is most people lost their faith in Vos.


expid: DHA195305
peakid: DHA1
year: 1995
route1: NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Yves Detry
sponsor: Montagnes de la Terre Dhaulagiri Expedition
countries: Italy
bcdate: 1995-09-16
smtdate: 1995-10-02
termdate: 1995-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to lack of strength & of time
campsites: BC(16/09,4800m),C1(21/09,5800m),C2(25/09,6600m),C3(02/10,7400m),xxx(02/10,7400m)
accidents: 2 sickness: 1 edema and other unknown
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at Col
  C3 on NE Ridge
  High point at C3.

  Extremely cold and climber with Detry a bit sick from the cold and decided to go down with him for security; now no time. "We are weak more and we would have had no strength for summit"; Magliano "very cold feet."


expid: DHAM95301
peakid: DHAM
year: 1995
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Siegfried Scharler
sponsor: Siegfried Scharler Expedition to Dhampus
ascent1: 12th official
approach: Myagdi Khola->past Dhaulagiri I BC area through French Pass
bcdate: 1995-11-01
smtdate: 1995-11-02
smttime: 1400
termdate: 1995-11-03
campsites: BC(01/11,4850m),Smt(03/11)
agency: Nepal Valley Trekking
routememo:
  From BC, crossed Dhampus Pass to SE Ridge via West Face of SE Ridge. Not technical climbing - ridge mixed snow and rock, gentle sloping sides. BC moved while team was climbing to site where their trekking group was camped so descent from summit led farther down SE Ridge towards (but not to) Pt 4908 on Japanese map and down ridge on its west side to Yamkim Khola. Left BC at 6:00 am on 2 Nov, reached summit at 2:00 pm and down to new BC at 6:30 pm same day after having spent 5 minutes on summit. Weather on summit was good.


expid: SHEY95301
peakid: SHEY
year: 1995
route1: Recon (N and S sides)
nation: USA
leaders: Geoffrey Tabin
sponsor: American Shey Shikhar Expedition
countries: UK
approach: Phoksumdo Khola
bcdate: 1995-09-21
termdate: 1995-10-04
othersmts: Climbed Tso Karpo Kang (TSOK-953-01), Kang Yaja, Pk 5950, Pk 5602
campsites: BC(21/09,4600m),Smt-TsoKarpoKang(29/09,01/10),Smt-KangYaja(02/10)
accidents: Nothing serious
achievment: 1st ascent of Kang Yaja
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 30 minutes north of Japanese '73 autumn - north of east Shey Shikhar.

  After BC, spent several days recce on northeast & east of south of Shey Shikhar to pass of 5300m south of mountain. Very loose rock, very scary, looked very dangerous from hanging glacier through mountain difficult. Then retreated to east to Pt 5602m directly north of Shey Shikhar & found it very loose rock ridge with downsloping slabs of bad rock; very dangerous. 

  Back to BC & abandoned attempt on Shey Shikhar & turned attention to what members believe is Tso Karpo Kang: climber from south up rock wall (where found Japanese rope pitons) to a saddle on 28th. 29th 4 members & Nima Tashi Sherpa, Naga Dorje Sherpa & Krishna Bahadur Tamang up SW Buttress, 3000 ft ice; at about 5800m 3 members turned back because 2 members were either sick or not strong while Tabin & 3 Nepalese climbed SW Ridge which became less steep & on top at 1:30 pm of 29th & back to C1/biv at 5300m at 4:30 pm. 30th Tabin & Squier to BC; Ruoss & Normand to peak 5950m high just SW of C1 & SE of Kang & Tabin & Squier to BC; Ruoss & Normand 1st Oct climbed to top of Tsokarpo Kang by slightly different route & back to BC on 2nd.

  Tabin, 2 Sherpas and 2 Warings & Sinclair on 1st Oct to a camp at 4800m south of Kang Yaja & on 2nd on top via 1000 vertical feet of vertical rock scrambling, icefall 400-500 ft high to sloping glacier to snow ridge to south ridge to summit. Warings & Sinclair spent night at 4800m camp while while Tabin & Sherpas to BC. 3rd all in BC & climbing finished. Returned via Shey Gompa.

  Tso Karpo Kang (6556m) (2nd & 3rd ascents)
    29 Sep (SW Ridge) by
       Tabin, Nima Tashi Sherpa, Naga Dorje Sherpa, Krishna Bahadur Tamang
    01 Oct (SE Face) by
       Ruoss,Normand

  Kang Yaja (5962m) (1st ascent)
    02 Oct (S Ridge) by
       Waring III, Waring IV, Sinclair, Nima Tashi Sherpa, Naga Dorje Sherpa


expid: AMAD95314
peakid: AMAD
year: 1995
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Michel Cormier
sponsor: Atalante Ama Dablam
ascent1: 182 w/Angeloz
bcdate: 1995-10-30
smtdate: 1995-11-08
termdate: 1995-11-13
campsites: BC(30/10,4600m),Biv(04/11,5100m),C1(05/11,5800m),C2(06/11,6100m),C3(07/11,6300m),Smt(08/11)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  2nd summit attack partly did not go above C3; reached C3 on 8th. 9th morning then weather changed, snow began to fall & before it started, Russell Brice radioed they should come down because [major] storm coming; directly to C1 at 9 pm in deep snow on ridge with difficulty in 12 hrs descent (in good weather & day light, 7 hrs needed for group descent from C3 to C1). 10th Nov C1 while 2 guides to Italian C1 normally 10 mins away, 1st summit party slept night of 8th Nov in C1.

  But this day 2 hours to Italian camp to find food in shoulder-deep snow & through could not return to own camp & made diversion; 10th night in C1; 11th Nov slept in Kammerlander's high BC, too difficult to reach BC in 2-meter deep snow; 12th Nov met rescuers from BC 1 hour below Kammerlander BC; rescuers were Brice, his team member, Sebastien, Knoertzer & Cormier's 2 French summiters, who had dug out trail for them; one night more above BC & some frostbitten feet.


expid: AMAD95313
peakid: AMAD
year: 1995
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Atalante Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 180,181
countries: New Zealand, UK
bcdate: 1995-10-29
smtdate: 1995-11-07
termdate: 1995-11-12
campsites: BC(29/10,4600m),C1(01/11,5200m),C2(02/11,5400m),C3(04/11,6100m),Smt(07-08/11)
accidents: None
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  Brice from C1 at 6:00 am to top at 9:20 am and back to BC for lunch at 1:00 pm with full load. "Just a nice day out for me; half a day holiday" (in the climb).


expid: AMAD95317
peakid: AMAD
year: 1995
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Jorge Clariana
sponsor: Himalaya 1995 Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 1995-11-09
smtdate: 1995-11-15
termdate: 1995-11-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to deep snow and avalanche danger
campsites: BC(09/11,4600m),C1(14/11,5500m),xxx(15/11,6000m)
accidents: None
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC same as French and Italians 
  C1 below normal site because of deep snow
  High point on SW Ridge below proposed site for C2 at 6200m.

  Arrived day big snowstorm began and stayed BC on 10th, on 11th all down to Pangboche. Returned to BC and on 13th liaison officer said could climb beyond 15th Nov, season's end because had lost time with storm. Route above C2 was deep snow and avalanches coming down onto ridge so dangerous and leader decided slow and stop climbing. Yaks were able to reach BC on 18th after trail was open.


expid: AMAD95316
peakid: AMAD
year: 1995
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Reinhard Patscheider
sponsor: Patscheider Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Austria
bcdate: 1995-11-06
smtdate: 1995-11-08
termdate: 1995-11-11
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to sudden very heavy snowfall on 9th and 10th
campsites: BC(06/11,4500m),C1(08/11,5800m),xxx(08/11,5800m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  8th Nov to BC heavy snowfall, leaving tents; 10th Nov in BC during continued freak heavy snowfall.

  16 Nov 95 - Russell Brice, who left BC 14 Nov said members were going to go to C1 to collect tents, etc & would leave BC for KTM on 15th or 16th; no intention to try for top.

  19 Nov - All members safe in KTM - did not try to go to summit again.

accidents:
  None on mountain (but Patscheider has some kind of mental problem becuse not well acclimatized - 9th)


expid: EVER95303
peakid: EVER
year: 1995
route1: SW Face (Bonington rte)
nation: S Korea
leaders: Cho Hyung-Gyu
sponsor: 95 Korean Everest SW Face-Lhotse Expedition
ascent1: 226
bcdate: 1995-08-20
smtdate: 1995-10-14
smttime: 1535
termdate: 1995-10-23
othersmts: Attempted Lhotse (LHOT-953-01)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
campsites:
  BC(20/08,5400m),C1(07/09,6200m),C2(10/09,6500m),C3(14/09,6900m),C4(23/09,7500m),C5(13/10,8350m),Smt(14/10)

routememo:
  BC at bottom of Icefall
  C1 above Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm.

  First concentrated on Everest and after it was climbed, then attempted Lhotse. Lhtose members got altitude sickness and down to BC while Everst members very strong. C5 making very difficult: long distance, difficult terrain and windy; some Sherpas felt altitude. 14 Oct Everest 1st attack on summit: left C5 at 5:25 am (1-1/2 hours late because heavy fog). On top 15:35 pm; returned C5 21:45 pm. No 2nd summit bid: scheduled for 16th Oct but turned to Lhotse and made Lhotse C4 that day but very windy. Everest members this day in Everest C4 and bring down oxygen to C2. Lhotse summit attack cancelled because of strong winds and down on 17th. All members in BC 21 Oct.

  Oxygen used Everest above C5 by all members and Sherpas - not at all on Lhotse.

  Lhotse high point C4 (7850m) reached by Kim Jea-Soo, Yun, Sarki Sherpa and Pasang Tamang.


expid: LHOT95301
peakid: LHOT
year: 1995
route1: W Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Byung-Gab
sponsor: 95 Korean Everest SW Face-Lhotse Expedition
bcdate: 1995-08-20
smtdate: 1995-10-16
termdate: 1995-10-23
termnote: Abandoned at 7850m due to winds
othersmts: Climbed Everest (EVER-953-03)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
primid: EVER95303
campsites:
  BC(20/08,5400m),C1(07/09,6200m),C2.ABC(10/09,6500m),C3(12/10,7200m),C4(16/10,7850m),xxx(16/10,7850m)

routememo:
  First concentrated on Everest and after it was climbed then attempted Lhotse. Lhtose members got altitude sickness and down to BC while Everst members very strong. C5 making very difficult: long distance, difficult terrain and windy; some Sherpas felt altitude. 14 Oct Everest 1st attack on summit: left C5 at 5:25 am (1-1/2 hours late because heavy fog). On top 15:35 pm; returned C5 21:45 pm. No 2nd summit bid: scheduled for 16th Oct but turned to Lhotse and made Lhotse C4 that day but very windy. Everest members this day in Everest C4 and bring down oxygen to C2. Lhotse summit attack cancelled because of strong winds and down on 17th. All members in BC 21 Oct.

  Oxygen used Everest above C5 by all members and Sherpas - not at all on Lhotse.

  Lhotse high point C4 (7850m) reached by Kim Jea-Soo, Yun, Sarki Sherpa and Pasang Tamang.


expid: KANG95305
peakid: KANG
year: 1995
route1: SW Face
nation: France
leaders: Benoit Chamoux
sponsor: Chamoux Expedition to Kangchenjunga
bcdate: 1995-09-09
smtdate: 1995-10-05
termdate: 1995-10-06
termnote: Abandoned at 8545m due to death of both members
campsites: BC(09/09,5400m),C2(14/09,6100m),C3(27/09,7300m),C4(04/10,7800m),xxx(06/10,8545m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  3rd Oct to C3 direct from BC, 4th made last camp, 5th tried for summit. On 5th Sherpa (Riku, 33 from Sankhuwasabha, according to Ministry of Tourism) fell to his death and Royer not seen after 5th evening; Chamoux disappeared on 6th.

  5th 10:00 am 1 Italian, 2 French, 2 Swiss and 3 Sherpas (who had left C4 together at 2 am) seen at the intersection of couloirs to ridge and normal route at 8250m. Sergio Martini went up a little of normal route and one Sherpa fell while sitting down on his rucksack and lost balance. At this point Swiss "took off" and moved rapidly to ridge and arrived at Col at 11:00 am, disappeared behind biv boulders and reappeared at 12:30 and rejoined normal route and on top at 2:30 pm. Sergio had waited for Swiss and feet got cold and turned back at 12:30 pm.

  2 French followed Swiss to Col, reached it at 2 pm and disappeared on other side of ridge and  reappeared at 4:30 pm. Swiss reappeared at 3:45 pm at Col having passed Chamoux. At 4:30 pm Chamoux reappeared on big rocks at c8400m, where he stopped at 6 pm - saw him sit down as sun set. 6:30 pm covered by clouds and when cleared after 1 hr and never saw headlight. Chamoux seen descending and falling over (legs frozen?), disappeared on north side and never seen again. Martini found north side of top of col walkie-talkie, 2 ice tools and 1 rucksack.

  Sherpa's body passed every day by climbers at 7600m - no convenient place to put it in.

  French not well acclimatized - were vomitting at C3 at 17th Sept and down in middle of night. Never returned to that altitude till summit push. They tried to "keep up with the Swiss and killed themselves." Troillet said Chamonix climbers are very competitive.


  Kanchenjunga - Italy, led by Sergio Martini:

  6th morning Pelle radioed Chamoux in trouble but did not ask Martini to help (Pelle Sherpas refused to help Chamoux since he did nothing about his fallen Sherpa); after 6th seeing that Chamoux a problem, Martini's friends at BC ask him to come down and he could not recover from 5th summit bid at C2 so he went down to BC (many telephone calls with Italy). Martini had been climbing alone mostly. Now 12th Oct Blanc and Martini go together to his C2 at 7200m; 13th to C3 and 14th summit via Loretan's route (partly in order to see bodies of Chamoux and Royer). Saw many footprints near col, biv place in snow and torch and the items of Royer/Chamoux.


  Kangchenjunga France, led by Michel Pelle:

  Pelle, Bros and 2 Sherpas saw no sign of Chamoux and Royer; Chamoux last seen on 6th going onto north side just above col, Royer not seen from 5th evening. Martini and Blanc told Chamoux's BC personnel they (Italian summiters) had found backpack and harness at col. Chamoux was in race with Loretan for all 8000ers: "It was a fatal challenge for Chamoux" said Bros. He is very strong Bros and Pelle agreed - agreed with Loretan's account of Chamoux and Royer.


  Kangchenjunga Switzerland, led by Erhard Loretan:

  In descent of ridge met Chamoux and Royer (no Sherpas) at bottom of ridge at 4:00 pm; Chamoux and Royer still going up, but at 4:30 said on radio Royer giving up because tired (carrying camera himself because all Sherpas went down with one Sherpa's fatal fall).
   
  Chamoux gave up at 5:30 pm, he radioed, too exhausted and couldn't find the way on the ridge. Was at point 40m below summit, he said he had lost visual contact with Royer, stayed all night on ridge at few meters above col from next morning Royer not seen again. Chamoux 8 am on radio to Troillet, who told him how to come down; down to col and seen to disappear down north. Both probably fell down N Face.

  On 6th Michel Pelle climbed to C4 with a client, saw nothing. On 7th 2 Pelle Sherpas fixed rope to 8200m, saw nothing.


  Sergio Martini, Italian Kangchenjunga - 28 Oct 95

  On 14 Oct, (Martini's successful summit day) Martini found very near west Col, which is at 8350m, a small ruckback, which was Royer's (Chamoux had none that day), containing 2 cameras and other items of no importance, 2 harnesses, 2 ice axes (one long, one short); a little above these items was a walkie-talkie radio. Martini brought rucksack and its contents to BC and his members from Aosta take them to Europe (Aosta is near Chamonix).

  Chamonix did not say he was 40m below summit - he asked by walkie-talkie where he was.

  Chamoux and Royer either fell down N Face or died amongst the many big rocks near and above West Col and their bodies are hidden by these rocks. There are no crevasses for them to have fallen into.

  Martini saw many footprints near col in snow hardened by wind and saw place of bivouac or resting in snow and torch there.


  Renato Maro - 9 Oct 95

  Pelle Sherpa to 8200m and saw nothing. On 6th Oct 2 persons seen moving very slowly, very tired bad weather and wind then. 5th Loretan on top, Chamoux and Royer turned back - 50-150m below top.

  9th to Twins BC by Moro. Twins team watching for summiters from before 5th and saw no one, no lights. Have telescope and were 200-300m below Twins top with excellent view of North Face of Kangchenjunga (Moro landed in helicopter and stayed 15 mins).


expid: KANG95304
peakid: KANG
year: 1995
route1: SW Face-W Col-NW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Michel Pelle
sponsor: Terres d'Adventure Kangchenjunga Expedition
bcdate: 1995-09-06
smtdate: 1995-10-07
termdate: 1995-10-12
termnote: Abandoned at 8200m due to lack of rope to fix
campsites: BC(06/09,5400m),C2(13/09,6100m),C3(05/10,7300m),C4(06/10,7800m),xxx(07/10,8200m)
accidents: 1 porter Sukaraj Limbu died of sickness while expedition was returning to KTM
agency: Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
routememo:
  BC at normal site (in village this autumn - 100 tents)
  High point at below West Col.

  Summit bid abandoned because needed fixed ropes which this team's Nima Temba had fixed to 8200m on 7th and now no more ropes left. Accidents of 5-6 Oct discouraged more climbing. Pelle and Bros and 2 Sherpas saw no sign of Chamoux and Royer; Chamoux last seen on 6th going onto north side just above Col, Royer not seen from 5th evening. Martini Blanc told Chamoux's BC personnel they (Italian summiters) had found backpack and harness at col. Chamoux was in race with Loretan for all 8000ers: "it was a fatal challenge for Chamoux" said Bros. Loretan, Troillet, Chamoux and Royer left last camp for summit at same time but Swiss much faster; "Loretan is the best" said Bros. He is very strong. Bros and Pelle in agreemment - agreed with Loretan's account of Chamoux and Royer.


expid: KANG95301
peakid: KANG
year: 1995
route1: SW Face-W Col-NW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Sergio Martini
sponsor: Italian Kangchenjunga Expedition 1995
ascent1: 45th
bcdate: 1995-08-29
smtdate: 1995-10-14
smttime: 0900
termdate: 1995-10-18
campsites: BC(29/08,5350m),C1(06/09,6100m),C2(03/10,7200m),C3(04/10,7700m),Smt(14/10)
accidents: None
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  Martini slept twice at spots below permanent C2 while making route in deep snow. 13th Sept slept at 6800m; later a bit higher; finally camps made 3 Oct; took many days because of heavy snowfall in 2nd half of Sept. 5th Oct made attempt for summit with Loretan, Troillet, Chamoux, Royer and 3 French Sherpas. Martini reached 8200m, slightly below W Col, waiting for Loretan to find that a route from col itself was not possible because of wind and difficult big rock pillar and to retreat. Waited half hour, Loretan did not come back (Chamoux arrived and reported one Sherpa fell and others gone down and Royer 5m below Chamoux - French followed Swiss track) and Martini decided first to try couloir before col, went up 20m and found too dangerous snow on rock and then went down on very cold day and returned to C3. Waited there for Swiss who returned to C3 at 5:00 pm and reported met 2 French at start of Ridge above Col and was sure French reached summit; Swiss and Martini slept C2 thinking to try for top on 7th Oct via C3, but 6th morning Pelle radioed Chamoux in trouble but did not ask Martini to help (Pelle Sherpas refused to help Chamoux since he did nothing about his fallen Sherpa). 

  Afternoon of 6th seeing that Chamoux had a problem, Martini's friends at BC ask him to come down and he could not recover from 5th summit bid at C2 so he went down to BC at 9:00 pm - very tired. Rested at BC (many telephone calls with Italy). Martini had been climbing alone mostly. Now 12th Oct Blanc and Martini go together to his C2 at 7200m. 13th to C3 and 14th summit via Loretan's route (partly in order to see bodies of Chamoux and Royer). Left C3 at 3 am and on summit before 9 am and returned to C2 at 1 pm after bringing down C3 gear started snowing while descending from Col. Saw many footprints near col (snow hindered by wind) rest biv place in snow and torch and items of Royer/Chamoux). Returned to BC 15th.

  10th Oct Favre and Mochet up from BC, reached c8000m on 12th and then down BC same day.


expid: KANG95302
peakid: KANG
year: 1995
route1: SW Face
nation: USA
leaders: Magda King Nos Loppe
sponsor: Fortieth Year Anniversary Kangchenjunga Expedition
countries: Spain
bcdate: 1995-08-31
smtdate: 1995-10-12
termdate: 1995-10-16
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to lack of strength
campsites: BC(31/08,5400m),C1(04/09,6100m),C2(07/09,6200m),C3(16/09,7000m),C4(05/10,7900m),xxx(12/10,8100m)
accidents: 3 male members bronchitis; King altitude sickness at C3
agency: Kohinoor Adventure
routememo:
  BC at normal site "village"
  C1 at top of first icefall (not used afterwards)
  C2 at lower section of second icefall
  C3 just below Great Shelf
  High point at halfway up other "the gangway." 

  11th Ellerby, McNally and Gombu slept at C4 but in morning 2 members woke up with diarrhea and could not make strong effort while still sick so turned back and in BC 13th.

  King went to C3 3 times but each time got headache which couldn't get rid of and did not take anything except aspirin: does not want to worsen her conditions with drugs. Last time was night of 10th Oct when felt nausea as well as headache again and down 11th. "I wanted that summit" and hoped to get at least 8400m without oxygen which is cheating.


expid: KANG95306
peakid: KANG
year: 1995
route1: SW Face-W Col-NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hirofumi Konishi
sponsor: GAIA Kangchenjunga Expedition 1995
bcdate: 1995-09-14
smtdate: 1995-10-16
termdate: 1995-10-30
termnote: Abandoned at 8400m because very tired
campsites: BC(14/09,5500m),C1(22/09,6200m),C2(04/10,7200m),C3(15/10,7850m),xxx(16/10,8400m)
accidents: Nothing except slight frostbite
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC as same as other teams
  C3 at Great Shelf
  High point at 50m above North Col.

  16th Oct try for top but retired at 8400m because one member very tired and slightly frostbitten, so all 4 down to C3 and 17th to BC because without oxygen needed BC rest. 25th up from BC to C2 by 3 members (not Matsubara). 26th very strong wind and while Todaka stayed C2 other 2 to BC. 27th Todaka to C3 and try for top on 28th, reached 8300m, down in very cold strong wind and very tired and returned to C1 and 29th BC and 30th left for home. Konishi and Tanahashi 31st up to bring down high camps but had decided on 29th no more summit bids; 2 members to C1 while 2 Sherpas up to C2 and C3 to bring them down.

  This team saw no traces of 2 missing Frenchmen, Chamoux and Royer.


expid: KANG95303
peakid: KANG
year: 1995
route1: SW Face-W Col-NW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Erhard Loretan
sponsor: Kangchenjunga International Expedition
ascent1: 44th
countries: France
bcdate: 1995-09-01
smtdate: 1995-10-05
smttime: 1435
termdate: 1995-10-09
campsites: BC(01/09,5300m),DC(09/09,6000m),C1(15/09,7300m),Biv(04/10,7800m),Smt(05/10)
accidents: Ozenda stomach upset briefly; slight frostbite by summiters
achievment: Loretan's 14th 8000er
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at lower ridge shelf
  Biv C4 at high on Great Shelf.

  Early Sept recovering in BC from minor ailments. 15th from BC to 7400m to see route and slept at 7300m; 16th to BC. Then bad weather: snowing, avalanches, wind. 3rd Oct to C3 there 3 Swiss, stayed few hours and 6:00 pm started up; very windy on the plateau and after 3 hours gave up when Georges was very tired so back to C3, slept few hours and again up 7:00 pm of 4th - up to C4 to biv at 7800m. Martini, Chamoux, Royer, Loretan, Troillet, Georges and 3-4 Sherpas from camps French and Italians had made at 7800m and Swiss biv on 5th started up at 2:00 am; were all together to 8200m, others too slow and at that moment one Chamoux Sherpa fell (lost balance sitting down with rucksack on back), so Loretan and Troillet and Martini moved ahead (Georges had turned back at biv too tired to go up). Martini turned back at 8150m after waiting for L & T and getting very cold. L & T reached Col between Kangchenjunga and Yalungkang at 11:00 am, then found easy way up ridge connecting Yalung to Kangchenjunga and were on summit at 2:35 pm - very cold and wind blowing a lot of snow in spiral curls. Left at 3:00 pm; on summit not so strong wind. In descent of ridges met Chamoux and Royer (no Sherpas) at bottom of ridge at about 4:00 pm; C & R still going up, but at about 4:30 said on radio Royer was giving up because tired (carrying camera himself because all Sherpas went down with one's fatal fall). Loretan and Troillet reached biv at 5:30 and down to C3 at 7:30 pm; Loretan slept there with Georges and Ozenda, who had come up there, while Troillet down to BC at midnight; Loretan at BC 6th am.

  Chamoux gave up at 5:30 pm, he radioed, too exhausted and couldn't find the way on the ridge - was at point 40m below summit, he said - had lost visual contact with Royer; stayed all night on ridge at few meters above Col. From next morning Royer not seen again. Chamoux 8:00 am on radio to Troillet, who told him how to come down; down to Col and seem to disappear down north. Both probably fell down North Face.

  On 6th Michel Pelle climbed to C4 with a client, saw nothing. On 7th 2 Pelle Sherpas fixed rope to 8200m saw nothing.

  How does Loretan feel at scaling his 14th 8000er? "It's something done" he says matter of factly. This goal was not a burden; feels no release. Has other projects: would like to climb West Face of Makalu; "it's possible."


expid: GIMM95301
peakid: GIMM
year: 1995
route1: N side-W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yasunari Yamashita
sponsor: Nepal Police-Tokyo University of Agriculture Gimmigela Exp
ascent1: 2nd,3rd
countries: Nepal
bcdate: 1995-09-20
smtdate: 1995-10-16
termdate: 1995-10-26
campsites: BC(20/09,5100m),C1(25/09,5600m),C2(01/10,6100m),C3(07/10,6700m),C4(16/10,7200m),Smt(16-17/10)
accidents: None
agency: Trans Himalayan Trekking (THT)
routememo:
  BC at Pangpema normal site of Kangchenjunga North Face expedition
  C1 on glacier between Cross Peak and Gimmigela peaks
  C2 on plateau of glacier between Cross and Gimmigela peaks
  C3 on Gimmigela West Ridge
  C4 on West Ridge (used only search beyond summit for Japanese who died on east 
     side in 1993 attempt from Sikkimese side).

  This team completed route attempted by 1963 Japanese who reached this group's C3 area (their C4 was there). Fixed ropes on 14th with pitons on rocky face between Cross Peak and Gimmigela, up Gimmigela's north side near North Ridge to West Ridge. Most difficult part was C3 and above due to strong wind. Roped C1 to C2: very unstable rock (ropes had to be replaced/checked every day) with much rock fall. From C2 to C3 fixed 17 pitches up somewhat steep slope and from C3 to top up final snow ridge 31 pitches. Technically none of route difficult. After summit reached, C4 pitched on 16th and 3 Japnese summiters stayed there at 7200m to search for body of Japanese who died in 1993 in attempt from (Sikkimese) Indian side. These 3 in C4 used oxygen sleeping in C4; on 17th went small distance towards Gimmigela East, but weather changed and couldn't reach accident site in strong wind and 17th night one stay in C4 while others down & 3 Japanese 17th summiters slept in C4. 18th strong wind and search abandoned.

  Team had 11 Japanese members because many from their club wanted to come to this mountain because of 1963 failed attempt and loss of member in 1993. Can be successfully climbed by smaller expedition.


expid: EVER95203
peakid: EVER
year: 1995
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: David Breashears
sponsor: Breashear's Party to Everest
bcdate: 1995-08-10
smtdate: 1995-08-22
termdate: 1995-09-09
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to avalanche danger
campsites: BC(10/08,5140m),ABC(15/08,6450m),C1(18/08,7000m),xxx(22/08,7500m)
accidents: All very fit; no problems except 3 Sept avalanche
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  High point on North Ridge.

  21 Aug again at N Col, 22nd 7500m & stopped because of avalanches, left cache at 7500m. Snow deep but not serious enough to stop progress. Down to BC to rest. 25th to ABC, 27th to N Col & found snow and windslab avalanche conditions too dangerous & back to ABC. 3 Sept 30m below N Col, 3 men caught in "huge" slab avalanche which fell from top of col to bottom; started by Breashears, Jangbu not really in it but Breashears & Wangchu caught by someone else's fixed rope - they were clipped into & lives saved by this rope. These conditions prevelent up high - rope was anchored to ice below col; snow was deep above col. Had to be home by 18th Sept & avalanche made Breashears realize how mortal he was. Monsoon broke 9th Sept.


expid: EVER95202
peakid: EVER
year: 1995
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Aldo Verzaroli
sponsor: Everesticino 1995
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk
bcdate: 1995-08-03
smtdate: 1995-08-27
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to snow & avalanche danger
campsites: BC(03/08),ABC(08/08,6450m),C1(14/08,7000m),xxx(27/08,7500m)
accidents: None; Jelmini just not strong
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  18th Aug reached 7300m and there too much snow and avalanche danger and back to N Col. 26 Aug to N Col, 27th reached 7500m and very dangerous. 30 Aug to Col, 31st wanted to try again to go higher but much snowfall and down (Breashears was with Swiss and down too). Fixed rope 50m before N Col. No two days of good weather; clear mornings but snowfall in afternoon.

  Expedition's leader arrived in KTM 28th July & left for border 30th July.


expid: EVER95201
peakid: EVER
year: 1995
route1: Left side of N Face into Great Couloir
nation: USA
leaders: Robert Anderson
sponsor: Everest Summer 1995
bcdate: 1995-06-23
smtdate: 1995-09-05
termdate: 1995-09-15
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m+ due to snow conditions
campsites: BC(23/06),ABC(30/06,5560m),C1(14/07,6520m),xxx(05/09,8000m)
accidents: None
agency: Himalayan High Treks
routememo:
  High point at Great Couloir.

  Italian-Czech Spring 1991 route followed after Anderson & Winkleman had made acclimatization climb on Changzheng. Four times tried for summit, reached 7600-7800m, slept there. Bad weather (lot of new snow, 1m deep) & down three times & last time reached 8000m in Great Couloir & slept there 3 nights. Stopped there because was 4:00 pm, had been climbing 11 hrs, snow waist-deep & were tired. Snowed every night but plan was to climb during night from 8000m (did not want to make another camp) so as to reach technical problems of yellow band at first light & have all day to summit & return to 8000m. 5th Sept tried to go up but got only perhaps 20m higher in blizzard & deep snow & avalanching. Felt "very insecure" [when] it's only 2 climbers.

  Anderson got 7800m on 21st July alone.

  Next by all 3 members to 7600m on 10 Aug; Winkleman left for work soon afterwards. 

  Other 2 attempts by Anderson & Bearzi.


expid: MANN83101
peakid: MANN
year: 1983
route1: S Ridge from N Col of Manaslu Main Peak from E
nation: UK
leaders: Dough Keelan
sponsor: Joint Services E Nepal Expedition 1983
ascent1: 2nd
bcdate: 1983-04-12
smtdate: 1983-05-10
smttime: 1210
othersmts: 4 Peaks in general area
campsites: BC(12/04,3840m),C1(17/04,4940m),C2(22/04,5550m),C3(29/04,6740m),Smt(10/05)
accidents: None
routememo:
  In 1st summit bid on 1 May avalanches whistled around our ears and we were hit by one at 22,400 ft to N Col of Manaslu which took out all our marker poles but no one injured. Parsnos, Keelan, Last and Hattersley in this party and went down. Evacuated mountain for 3 days to let it clear.

  Then set in motion fast assault. No summit push after success of 10th because weather continued bad - heavy snowfall. On successful ascent, ridge more technically difficult, 1 km long and continuous pitch climbing mostly rock with cornices on E and 7000 ft on west. Started 4 am from C3 and on top 12 noon, returned to C3 site at 6 pm to find camp gone in avalanche and descended in dark to snow cave where spent dark hours after having recovered sleeping bags from debris of C3.

  4 peaks in general areas including one near Tibet border after ascent of Manaslu North.


  Keelan - 28 May 83

  British scaled a separate peak dominated by Manaslu about 2 and 1/2 minutes or 3 minutes north and slightly west of Manaslu. Altitude 23,400 ft seems correct. Seems Dutch were on a different peak north of this peak. Don't know where Czechs went. Thus possible British were first on this peak this spring.


expid: PUMO83101
peakid: PUMO
year: 1983
route1: E Face-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Donald McIntyre
sponsor: 1983 Inner Asia Expedition
bcdate: 1983-04-18
smtdate: 1983-04-28
termdate: 1983-05-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6190m due to ice blocks coming down
campsites: BC(18/04,5275m),ABC(21/04,5485m),C1(26/04,5945m),xxx(28/04,6190m)
routememo:
  C1 was nailed to rock and had to push snow underneath to prop it up. Kept getting ice blocks coming down; one hit Dailey's pack and carried it off and down 1000 ft (found later). Huge avalanche going across route and almost hit Dailey. General consensus was "we ought to get hell out of there" he said.

  Technical difficulties and avalanches meant ran out of rigid fixed time alloted. Must be done very quickly or not at all. Could have gone to S Ridge if had had more time.


expid: CHOL83101
peakid: CHOL
year: 1983
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: William Kenneth Dark
sponsor: British Paranassus 21 Expedition to Cholatse and Tawoche 1983
bcdate: 1983-04-07
smtdate: 1983-04-26
termdate: 1983-04-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6220m due to avalanching
othersmts: Attempted Tawoche (TAWO-831-01)
campsites: BC(07/04,4570m),C1(09/04,5640m),xxx(26/04,6220m)
accidents: Gregory altitude sickness
routememo:
  Cholatse E Ridge looked too difficult and Tawoche was right there so went for Tawoche first. Went up NE Ridge of Tawoche after 1 week of snow which spent at BC. Carling and Gregory started up 22nd and found it very steep knife-edge ice, ice towers and seracs; hard ice one side, snow and ice other and this avalanched. Needed more personnel or may be ability. Got only to 19,000 ft on this ridge on 22nd. Again snow and all off the mountain and Gregory got pulmonary edema.

  24th April Dark, Naylor and Wintrip started to Col for Cholatse bid. 25th started up SE Ridge on Swiss route and fixed rope 270m in technical climbing up rock towers in steps. When to 20,400 ft on 26th and here huge rock tower, retreated to Col where Carling had arrived. 27th Carling and Dark back up and on 28th to 20,400 ft to decide how or whether further progress and 2 snow avalanches came off ridge. These avalanches convinced them to abandon climb and went back down to BC. 2 went back up to clear ropes on 30th.


  Sharma, Tourism - 8 May 83

  Cholatse and Tawoche:

  [Left BC] 29 April because bad weather.

  Taboche by NW Ridge and put camp on col between Tawoche NW Ridge and Cholatse SE Ridge. 1 week later same members started up NW Ridge but had to return due to poor snow and avalanche conditions and deteriorating weather. Decided ridge too long and difficulties too continues for expedition our size. We do not have personal or equipment necessary to safely attempt the route.

  We have abandoned attempt on this route and turned attention to our 2nd objective, Cholatse SE Ridge. Already having camp at base of this ridge so want SE Ridge instead of E Ridge.


expid: TAWO83101
peakid: TAWO
year: 1983
route1: SE Ridge of Cholatse
nation: UK
leaders: William Kenneth Dark
sponsor: British Paranassus 21 Expedition to Cholatse and Tawoche 1983
bcdate: 1983-04-07
smtdate: 1983-04-22
termdate: 1983-04-29
termnote: Abandoned at 5790m due to avalanche conditions and poor weather
othersmts: Attempted Cholatse (CHOL-831-01)
campsites: BC(07/04,4570m),C1(09/04,5640m),xxx(22/04,5790m)
accidents: Gregory altitude sickness
primid: CHOL83101
routememo:
  Cholatse E Ridge looked too difficult and Tawoche was right there so went for Tawoche first. Went up NE Ridge of Tawoche after 1 week of snow which spent at BC. Carling and Gregory started up 22nd and found it very steep knife-edge ice, ice towers and seracs; hard ice one side, snow and ice other and this avalanched. Needed more personnel or may be ability. Got only to 19,000 ft on this ridge on 22nd. Again snow and all off the mountain and Gregory got pulmonary edema.

  24th April Dark, Naylor and Wintrip started to col for Cholatse bid. 25th started up SE Ridge on Swiss route and fixed rope 270m in technical climbing up rock towers in steps. When to 20,400 ft on 26th and here huge rock tower, retreated to Col where Carling had arrived. 27th Carling and Dark back up and on 28th to 20,400 ft to decide how or whether further progress and 2 snow avalanches came off ridge. These avalanches convinced them to abandon climb and went back down to BC. 2 went back up to clear ropes on 30th.


expid: LANG83101
peakid: LANG
year: 1983
route1: SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Robert Harwood
sponsor: American Langtang Expedition
bcdate: 1983-04-07
smtdate: 1983-04-17
termdate: 1983-04-20
termnote: Abandoned at 4800m due to snowfall
campsites: BC(07/04,4200m),xxx(17/04,4800m)
accidents: Cook got very sick; nothing else
routememo:
  3 meters of snowfall between 7th and 19th. Never made a C1 and indeed took 4 hours to get back down on 19th in own track. Then ran out of time; had not budgeted for 2 week's waiting which could have stretched to longer period.

  Looked very dangerous with all the new snow that piled up.


expid: MAKA83101
peakid: MAKA
year: 1983
route1: SE Ridge (S Korean 1982 rte)
nation: USA
leaders: Ronald Matous
sponsor: Colorado Makalu Expedition
countries: UK
approach: Tumlingtar->Shipton Pass->Barun Glacier (BC)
bcdate: 1983-03-28
smtdate: 1983-05-08
termdate: 1983-05-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7740m due to thigh-deep snow plus bad visibility to see where to go
accidents: None
campsites:
  BC(28/03,5000m),C1(08/04,5485m),C2(14/04,6100m),C3(21/04,6800m),C4(30/04,7315m),C5(08/05,7740m),xxx(7740m)

routememo:
  Too much snow in high cwm at high point. Doing very well until reached cwm, snow up to knee- even thigh-deep; plus bad visibility to see where to go. Weather showed no sign of improving and weren't using oxygen; only one more week of food.


expid: MAK283101
peakid: MAK2
year: 1983
route1: NW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: John Mueller
sponsor: Cowboys on Makalu II
bcdate: 1983-03-24
smtdate: 1983-04-12
termdate: 1983-04-14
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to bad weather with wind and heavy snow at the high camp
campsites: BC(24/03,4740m),ABC(04,5275),C1(11/04,5790m),xxx(12/04,6100m)
accidents: Only Mueller's twisted ankle
routememo:
  After delay getting to BC, winds came up after 2 and half weeks fine weather, gales which kept them awake. Then while establishing ABC, Mueller injured by twisting ankle on moraine and put out of action. Then Hanson got slight altitude sickness and route required 4 people in the style geared for there and weather bad with wind and heavy snow at the high camp.


expid: DHA183102
peakid: DHA1
year: 1983
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Mexico
leaders: Sergio Fitch Watkins
sponsor: Mexican Dhaulagiri Expedition
termnote: Abandoned due to lack of funds
agency: Sherpa Cooperative Trekking (SCT)
routememo:
  Expedition cancelled because did not have enough money even after selling all equipment and cameras. Have only $3000 and Sherpa Cooperative Trekking (SCT) estimated they needed $6000.

  One contribution of 100,000 pesos would have meant plenty funds but with devaluations now worth only $660.
   
  Hope to have fee paid for permit carried over to permit for 1985 and to return then.


expid: EVER83103
peakid: EVER
year: 1983
route1: W Ridge direct from N (to 7925m)
route2: W Ridge (Hornbein Couloir) from N (to 8000m)
nation: USA
leaders: Robert Craig
approach: Lhasa->Rongbuk Glacier
bcdate: 1983-03-21
smtdate: 1983-05-07
termdate: 1983-05-15
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to 1 member ill & snow
campsites: BC(21/03),C1,C2,C3,C4,C5(26/04,7650m),xxx(07/05,8000m)
routememo:
  Got to 7900m on both Yugoslavian ridge and Hornbein Couloir then Roskelley got very ill and had to take 2 others (Momb and Houston) to get him down. Then making progress on Hornbein Couloir when mountain got plastered with snow. Snow on 8th May and snow stayed. Schmitz and Rowell tried to do fast push for summit but failed. Quit 15th May.

  Realized how much work Sherpas do on an expedition.


  Himalayan Letter newsletter Feb 81:

  An American expedition attempted Everest via the west ridge from Tibet, without oxygen or porters. Robert Craig was the leader and Galen Rowell the climbing leader. They had nine lead climbers and eight support climbers, all of whom were equally involved in load carrying to the high camps. Up to 7300m they followed an entirely new route on the north rib of the west shoulder, both easier and safer than the 1979 Yugoslav route via the Lho La. This had 2150m of fixed rope up 45-degree to 70-degree slopes of hard snow with occasional ice. On May 3 John Roskelley and Kim Momb prepared the route to 7925m on the Yugoslav route. The next morning Roskelley down to the next camp where Dr. Robin Houston and others cooperated to get him down without a major rescue. Despite this another summit bid was made within a few days. Efforts were switched to the Hornbein Couloir, where they reached 8000m but they were stopped by the first monsoon storm on May 8. Despite further efforts they had to give up as the monsoon closed in.


expid: EVER83101
peakid: EVER
year: 1983
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Chile
leaders: Gaston Oyarzun
approach: Lhasa->Rongbuk Glacier
bcdate: 1983-03-24
smtdate: 1983-05-19
termdate: 1983-05-24
othersmts: Illegal attempt of Changtse (CTSE-831-01)
accidents: Oyarzun was taken ill with acute cerebral edema; he saw 'black points and macabre insects'
campsites:
  BC(24/03,5150m),C1(29/03,6100m),C2(30/03,6500m),C4(27/04,7007m),C5(30/04,7600m),C6(17/05,8000m),C7(18/05,8300m),xxx(19/05,8350m)

routememo:
  The 12-man Chilean party, led by Gaston Oyarzun, failed in the siege on the NE Ridge in spring. The party was the second Himalayan expedition organized by Chilean Mtng Federation after the successful Gasherbrum II party in 1979. Oyarzun led that party and reached the top by himself. 

  BC (5150m) on Rongbuk Glacier was made on March 23 and via East Rongbuk Glacier, C1 (5500m), C2 (6100m) and C3 (6500m) were made. Ropes were fixed on North Col for 500m, and C4 (7007m) on the col was made. Much snow and bad weather disturbed the progress. C5 (7600m) and C6 (8000m), were made along the classic route on NE Ridge and the final C7 (8300m) was made May 17. Claudio Lucero, Ivan Vigouroux, Dagoberto Pena and leader Oyarzun intended to push from C7 next day, but they were forced to be in the tent for three more nights. They used up the oxygen, and Oyarzun suffered pulmonary edema and Lucero took over the leadership. On 21st they descended 100m and found the remain of Chinese 1975 party's tent. A cylinder there saved their lives. They narrowly returned to BC without accident.


  Galen Rowell, by phone in California - 26 June 83

  Chilians were on Everest via N Col route in Spring 1983 (Rowell was on W Ridge from N at same time and they met).
   
  Reached 26,000+ ft (7900m) with little equipment and in a storm which they had to wait out. All survived but one [Oyarzun] got ill and retreat was only possibility.


expid: EVER83304
peakid: EVER
year: 1983
route1: E Face
nation: USA
leaders: James Morrissey
ascent1: 54th,57th
countries: Canada
bcdate: 1983-08-26
smtdate: 1983-10-08
smttime: 1445
termdate: 1983-10-17
accidents: None except some illness
campsites:
  BC(26/08,5240m),C1(01/09,5335m),C2(20/09,6250m),C3(25/09,6700m),C4(01/10,7160m),C5(07/10,8000m),Smt(08-09/10)

routememo:
  "Desperately" deep snow (knee deep) with crust from C6 to SSE Ridge (which reached at 26,500 ft) left C6 at 4:00 am, reached ridge about 10:30 am; snow on ridge much better but still easy to make a mistep. "Take my hat off" to Hillary on difficult and exposed ground and you feel a long long way from home." Reached top at 2:45 pm together. On 9th George to top at 10:30 am from 4:00 am departure and other 2 about 2:30 pm from 4:30 am departure.

  Most difficult part: rock and ice ridge and series of couloirs up the face but lower overhanging rock the worst. Winch essentially didn't work; took 3 rockets to fire out rope and 2 rockets didn't work. 

  But [Pemba Temba] Sherpa with Japanese Everest team slipped just behind Reichardt and fell to his death and Lowe found slip marks and ice marks and camera of Japanese who fell.


  American Everest East Face

  Japanese met 3 Americans at 8500m at 9:00 am. They going up and reached summit at 3:00 pm: Endo saw footsteps.

  Endo was first of Japanese to reach summit and Americans were ahead of him. At Hillary Step he met Americans and they coming down and they said had been on top; were using oxygen because they said much snow. Endo and Americans shook hands. Americans looked strong because using oxygen. Americans reached SE Ridge at 8500m from high camp at 8300m on East Face.

  On 9 Oct, next day Endo met 3 more Americans at 8600m when they were going up; doesn't know whether they had success.


  Ed Hillary - 20 Oct 1983

  East Face definitely a very challenging route and if upper slopes in bad snow conditions then I'd say a very dangerous route. If they got up that route, I'd be full of admiration for them.


expid: EVER83302
peakid: EVER
year: 1983
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Conrad Blanch
bcdate: 1983-08-12
smtdate: 1983-10-10
termdate: 1983-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 8400m due to bad weather including strong winds and exhaustion
campsites: BC(12/08),C1(15/08,5500m),C2(6000m),C3(6500m),C4(7000m),C5(05/09,7600m),xxx(15/09,8400m)
accidents: No accidents
routememo:
  Reached 8300-8400m in 3 attack parties who waited 2 days each time but bad weather defeated all 3 bids. Bad weather strong winds, C4 blown down to C3.


  Zabaleta, Makalu - 18 March 84

  Spaniards (Catalans) reached 8380-8400m (about 2nd step) on Everest in Autumn 1983 via N Col-N Face-NE Ridge bad weather, including strong winds and exhaustion made them give up.

  Catalans may return to same route in summer 1985 (following Navarra team in Spring 1985 also via N Col).


expid: LHOT88301
peakid: LHOT
year: 1988
route1: W Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Choi Chang-Min
sponsor: Choi Chang-Min Autumn 1988 Everest Expedition
ascent1: 17th
bcdate: 1988-08-22
smtdate: 1988-10-02
smttime: 0900
othersmts: Climbed Everest (EVER-883-04)
campsites: BC(22/08,5350m),C1(04/09,6050m),C2(07/09,6400m),C3(01/10,7200m),C4(01/10,8000m),Smt(02/10)
accidents: None
achievment: 1st Korean ascent
agency: Mountain Travel
primid: EVER88304
routememo:
  2nd Oct climbed to top from C4 and descended to C2. Rested in French C3 tent and ate there on ascent (NZ food).

  No Sherpas above C2 for Lhotse.


expid: EVER88311
peakid: EVER
year: 1988
route1: Face between N and NE Ridges (to 8000m)
route2: N Col-N Face (Great Couloir) (to 8400m)
nation: Canada
leaders: Barry Blanchard
countries: USA
bcdate: 1988-09-16
smtdate: 1988-10-24
termdate: 1988-10-29
termnote: Abandoned at 8450m due to 'deteriorating control of situation'
accidents: Altitude sickness
campsites:
  BC(16/09,6400m),Biv1(05/10,7200m),Biv2(14/10,7600m),Biv3(23/10,7000m),Biv4(24/10,8080m),xxx(24/10,8450m)

routememo:
  BC at E Rongbuk where moraine ends
  Biv1 at small glacier
  Biv3 at 7000m at N Col
  Biv4 at 8080m at Great Couloir
  High point at Great Couloir rock.

  2 men only with permit for NE Ridge with 2 other Canadians at BC and ABC (had planned to be 4 Canadian climbers but 3 dropped out and Twight joined) but really wanted to climb couloir from East Rangbuk Glacier leading to North Ridge. However Hasegawa Japanese team (who had been there last winter unsuccessfully) said this was their route, so Blanchard and Twight moved to left to a small couloir and made first attempt with no ropes and 1 sleeping bag. Left ABC 4th Oct 2:00 pm and 7:00 pm at 23,200 ft where Twight's feet very cold without overboots and back to ABC. 

  5th Oct 2nd attempt from ABC at 2 pm; 9 or 10 pm dug snow cave and stayed till 2:00 am on 6th Oct; kept on up to 24,500 ft when Blanchard developing pulmonary edema so down to ABC for 1 day and on to BC at 16,800 ft. rested till 11th Oct and up to ABC. 

  13th up from ABC in 3rd attempt: 10 pm left for ABC with small tent but no sleeping bags but with stove. 7 am 14th set up tent at 25,000 ft above small couloir and now on spur on easier terrain; no Japanese around so moved to left edge of their couloir. At 5 pm Banchard developing cerebral edema at 26,300 ft. Traversed Japanese Couloir to N Ridge at 25,000 ft, down to N Col where Wyoming expedition gave Blanchard a bottle of oxygen and on down to ABC at 10:30 pm of 14th. Blanchard slept on oxygen and in special bag. 15th to BC. 

  20th Blanchard started to ABC and took 2 days to get there. Twight same day catching up with Blanchard, passed out 5900m and returned to BC for 2 days. 22nd Blanchard at ABC and Twight arrived there that night. 23rd noon both left ABC and went to N Col and bived there; 24th on N Ridge to 25,000 ft and then traversed to Great Couloir where set up tent at 26,500 ft at 7:30 pm. 25th at 2 am up again, up Great Couloir to start of first rock band where falling asleep, Twight's feet and hands freezing. Twight turned back at 6:00 am at 8400m, Blanchard at 7 am at slightly higher 8450m. Down N Ridge and N Col back to ABC on 25th. Climb finished: no food, no sleep and altitude affected.


expid: ANN188304
peakid: ANN1
year: 1988
route1: NW Ridge/Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Akihiko Mori
sponsor: Donguri Yamano-kai Himalaya Expedition 1988
approach: Mristi Khola
bcdate: 1988-09-16
smtdate: 1988-09-27
termdate: 1988-10-01
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to fatal accident
campsites: BC(16/09,3800m),C1(20/09,4800m),xxx(27,29/09,5900m)
accidents: 2 fatalities; Ono badly bruised chest
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Avalanche of falling serac struck Mori, Ono and Ang Dawa at 5000m; Ono fell 50m and survived; where other 2 fell, don't know. Czechs helped search but bodies not found. 

  Will attempt Czechs route next year; this year's route was same as Messner's 1985 spring ascent.


expid: GURJ88301
peakid: GURJ
year: 1988
route1: N-S Ridge btw GURJ & DHA6
nation: S Korea
leaders: Shin Young-Chul
sponsor: 1988 Korea Dhaulagiri VI, Gurja Himal Expedition
ascent1: 8th
bcdate: 1988-08-31
smtdate: 1988-09-26
smttime: 1243
othersmts: Climbed Dhaulagiri VI (DHA6-88-301) and Ghustang North (GHUN-883-01)
accidents: None
agency: Adventure Nepal
primid: DHA688301
campsites:
  BC(31/08,4530m),Dep(02/09,4800m),C1(06/09,5350m),C2.ABC(10/09,5750m),C3(14/09,6300m),C4(25/09,6750m),Smt(26/09)

routememo:
  26th Sept 5:50 am 2 teams started for 2 summits and on top of Dhaulagiri 6 12:30 pm and Gurja 12:43 pm; returned C4 from Dhaulagiri VI 17:00 hrs and Gurja 18:00 hrs same day. Ridge to Gurja very difficult knife ridge atop steep walls on both sides (walls moving rock, snow and ice). Easy climb to Dhaulagiri VI. 1000m fixed rope C2 to C4 on steep sections. No rope fixed rope above C4. Many crevasses below C2 (area where Spring 1988 climber died).

  Ghustang North climbed 19th Sept by 3 members (Lee, Lee and Shin) from C2 up W Face.


expid: MANA95401
peakid: MANA
year: 1995
route1: NE Face
nation: Kazakhstan
leaders: Kazbek Valiev
sponsor: Kazakhstan Manaslu 1995
ascent1: 46th
countries: Belarus, Russia
bcdate: 1995-11-22
smtdate: 1995-12-08
smttime: 1100
termdate: 1995-12-12
campsites: BC(22/11,4800m),C1(01/12,5500m),C2(02/12,6300m),C3(06/12,7000m),C4(07/12,7500m),Smt(08/12)
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site (where Japanese had camp in autumn)
  C1 near Naike Col
  C4 on plateau.

  When came to BC, 80 cm snow and had to wait at Samagaon extra day for more porters who would carry all the way to BC. When going to C1, had to make deposit and reached camp on 2nd day. Above C2 no fresh snow; hard snow and easy to move with crampons. Easy to go to C3 with no strong winds and easy snow condition. 7th reached plateau at 7500m and pitched 2 tents but very strong wind at plateau and very cold; 3 members got very cold during bad night. Planned to start for top on 9th at 6:00 am but wind and cold delayed them by one hour. All 10 climbing members set out for top but Mikhailov and Grekov turned back at 7700m (Mikhailov sick from bad night). Summiters unroped and Moiseev stayed on top 1 hr 40 mins waiting for last man Mouravev to arrive at 12:40. All left top at 1:00 pm. No wind but very cold. At 2:10 pm all in C4, very fast with no wind and excellent snow. 3:00 pm left C4 and Boukreev in C3 at 4:15 pm and all slept in C3. All in BC 9th at 7:30 pm. Very easy route and had no avalanching. Good weather till 9th, then snow and bad weather on 12th when left BC. Fixed 300m on moraine before BC for porters.

accidents:
  Boukreev bronchitis throughout climb; others also slightly sick; Mikhailov probably altitude sickness


expid: DHA195401
peakid: DHA1
year: 1995
route1: NE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Park Young-Seok
sponsor: Korea Winter Dhaulagiri Expedition
approach: Air->Jomsom->Kali Gandaki->Tukuche->Dhampus->French Pass
bcdate: 1995-12-05
smtdate: 1995-12-10
termdate: 1995-12-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to wind & snowfall
campsites: BC(05/12,4700m),C1(09/12,5900m),C2(10/12,7200m),xxx(10/12,7200m)
accidents: None
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C2 at NE Ridge
  High point at C2.

  Too much snow even getting to BC. Took 5 days to reach BC from Tukuche Village which normally takes 2-3 days; waist-deep snow in Dhampus & French Passes. 6th & 7th Dec made route through icefall (big avalanche had came down (in big snowstorm of 9-10 Nov?) & filled crevasses. 9th Dec BC to NE Col. 10th to 7200m in push to summit - much snow already there & new snow which came in such larger amount it broke tents and windy; back to BC 12th 4:00 pm to wait for good weather. Wind broke dining tent at BC 15th. Park on 15th to Marpha at end of climb while Han left on 17th. Too much wind, cloudy weather with fresh snowfall put end to climbing hopes. Park's wife & son waiting KTM so he left quickly. He had planned to make C2 & climb alpine-style from there to top & back in one day.


expid: PUMO95401
peakid: PUMO
year: 1995
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Shinji Takahashi
sponsor: Okayama Gakuyou Kai (Club) Pumori Expedition 1995/96
bcdate: 1995-12-16
smtdate: 1995-12-22
termdate: 1995-12-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to heavy snowfall
campsites: BC(16/12,5300m),C1(19/12,5800m),C2(22/12,6300m),xxx(22/12,6300m)
accidents: None
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC near lake (4-5 autumn team camps seen)
  C1 on SE Ridge
  C2 not slept
  High point below East Ridge's Col.

  Very easy route, but heavy snowfall on 22 Dec afternoon sent party who pitched C2 down to C1 to sleep. Much fixed rope from C1 to C2 from earlier seasons so no need to use 2000m rope this team brought with them. Planned to start summit push from BC on 25th Dec but again heavy snowfall. 26 & 27th Dec up to C2, shovelled out broken tent & brought down gear. Wind no problem. Snow at BC already very deep on 16th Dec & yaks not above Dugla bridge above Pheriche, only porters from there to BC through waist-deep drifts.


expid: EVER89203
peakid: EVER
year: 1989
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Santiago Arribas Perez
sponsor: Spanish Civilian-Military Expedition Chomolungma 1989
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 1989-06-19
smtdate: 1989-08-27
termnote: Abandoned at 8530m due to deep snow & permit expiring
accidents: None
agency: Unknown
campsites:
  BC(11/06,5150m),C1(30/06,5500m),C2(01/07,6000m),C3.ABC(02/07,6450m),C4(05/07,7060m),C5(25/07,7800m),C6(26/08,8350m),xxx(27/08,8530m)

routememo:
  C4 at North Col
  C5 on North Ridge where rocks protected from avalanche
  C6 on North Face just below Yellow Band
  High point on North Ridge.

  Long period of heavy snow fall; 2m of snow on upper ridge: 2 hrs to go 20m at 8350m 150m below of 1st step; after C5 again snowfall and again reached 30 and 31 July and 6th Aug and 13th Aug. Reached 8150m on 14th but no higher because deep snow and down to C4. 17th Aug again to C4 and on 28th reached C6 site but did not sleep there. Slept C5 and right down to ABC while other group to C5 19th (but not sleep there) and down to ABC 21st. 25th again C5, 26th C6 and 27th 3:00 am start up and reached ridge 5:30 am, 2 hrs 20 minutes swimming: too much snow. 

  This route from C5 slightly different from classical route, but probably followed by 1988 in national team; more direct from C5 to 1st Step.


expid: KAG189102
peakid: KAG1
year: 1989
route1: N Face
nation: W Germany
leaders: Wolfgang Koch
sponsor: Hauser Dolpo
countries: Austria
termnote: Abandoned due to deep snow
campsites: No BC
agency: Lama Excursions
routememo:
  Kagmara's sirdar, Urkien Pemba Lama, says trekking group of eight had five or six members equipped to climb and would have made attempt if weather had been good. Team trekked to basecamp site at Kagmara La (5100m) and found too deep snow and heavy rainfall, so made no attempt to climb Kagmara I; instead trekked on to Dunai (they had come from Jumla) and flew back to Kathmandu from there.


expid: KAG189101
peakid: KAG1
year: 1989
route1: W Ridge
nation: W Germany
leaders: Ulrich Gruber
sponsor: Shangrila Reisen International Expedition to Kagmara I
bcdate: 1989-04-30
smtdate: 1989-05-03
termnote: Abandoned at 4000m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(30/04,3000m),ABC(03/05,4000m),xxx(4000m)
agency: Chomalhari Trekking
routememo:
  No actual climbing done. Reached Kagmara Pass by trekking to it, placed a camp there and found there was too much deep, deep snow and avalanching. "So not to take a risk," they decided to turn back.

  approach via Garpung Khola
  no photo of mountain and climbing route
  name of team:
  Shangrila Reisen International


  Munich - 28 Feb

  "Letter of Recommendation"

  This is to recommend a group of General Alpine Climb climbers who would like to make an attempt of climbing the Kagmara Peak in Western Nepal during the month of April-May 1989. Leader of the group is Dr. Ulrich Gruber, member of the Bayerland Section in the Germany Alpine Climb. He has gained the necessary experiences and abilities during many trekking and expedition journey to Nepal and other parts of the Himalayas.

  We kindly request the concerned persons authorities and institutions to give all possible support to Dr. Gruber and his group with regard to the necessary climbing and trekking permits as well as any other formalities.


expid: DHA189106
peakid: DHA1
year: 1989
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Josef Inhoeger
sponsor: Salzburg Dhaulagiri Expedition
ascent1: 38th
approach: Via Kali Gandaki->Tukuche->Hidden Valley & French Pass
bcdate: 1989-05-07
smtdate: 1989-05-18
smttime: 1130
termdate: 1989-05-20
campsites: BC(07/05,4650m),C1(09/05,5800m),C2(12/05,6450m),C3(15/05,7020m),C4(17/05,7400m),Smt(18/05)
accidents: None
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC at normal site (same as Chileans and Belgians)
  C1 at NE Col
  C2 at start of NE Ridge
  C3 on NE Ridge
  C4 at small traverse to snowfield.

  4 days in Hidden Valley with porter problems. After C1 made down to BC to rest. 12 May to NE Col and to C2. 13th to C1. 15th Inhoeger alone from C1 to C2. 16th Inhoeger in C2 alone. 17th May Inhoeger to C4. 18th May Inhoeger to summit alone while other 2 slightly ill members waited at NE Col. 18th no wind, 1 hour on summit; left C4 at 5:30 am and took 6 hours to top; Inhoeger down to C1 on 18th at 6:00 pm. All to BC on 19th. Icefall very dangerous after 11:00 am with many crevassess and no snow.


expid: MANA89102
peakid: MANA
year: 1989
route1: S Face (Austrian 1972 rte)
nation: France
leaders: Benoit Chamoux
sponsor: L'Esprit d'Equipe - Manaslu 1989
ascent1: 31st-34th
countries: Czechoslovakia, Italy, UK
approach: Marshyangdi->Dana Lhola
bcdate: 1989-04-09
smtdate: 1989-05-09
campsites: BC(09/04,4250m),C1(18/04,5550m),C2A(23/04,6550m),C2B(01/05,6300m),C3(02/05,7400m),Smt(09-12/05)
accidents: None
agency: Trekking International
routememo:
  BC at Tulagi Glacier
  C1 on South (or SW) Face
  C2 100m below col of South Ridge.

  Had to change route and abandon S Ridge because of constant wind and on east side of ridge very dangerous wind slab. 

  So switched to Messner route after having gone to 1st C2 3 times on col of S Ridge. 1st summit team had bad winds going up 24th, team had wind and snow in descent. Pillar of 600m just below C1 had some overhangs: "very nice climbing" that Sherpas found difficult. Fixed 800m rope on pillar and some ladder (4750-5000m where rope fixed).


expid: LHOT88303
peakid: LHOT
year: 1988
route1: S Face
nation: France
leaders: Marc Batard
approach: Chhukung
bcdate: 1988-10-24
smtdate: 1988-10-25
termdate: 1988-10-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to Batard's exhaustion
othersmts: Climbed Cho Oyu (CHOY-882-01) and Everest (EVER-883-07)
campsites: BC(24/10,5300m),xxx(25/10,6000m)
accidents: None
agency: Thamserku Trekking
primid: EVER88307
routememo:
  BC at normal site for Lhotse South Face, west side of Lhotse Glacier.

  "Decided quickly was too tired. I look at face very well but I was too tired." To Lukla by helicopter, Namche very quickly, tired, slowly to BC. "Too tired and too much for more to climb this face, I need long time to recuperate." Also heard icefall not being kept open by Belgian's Sherpas as expected but more important I was too tired." Face not dangerous at this time; icefall all the time but it is possible to climb the face: same rock fell part of Yugoslavian route and Polish ice falling but French (Vincent Fine) route nothing: I think this is best way to climb the face; not dangerous but was too much snow on the rock above 7200m to about 8000m. Went very little above BC: on 25th Oct climbed in easy snow to about 6000m (very easy to 6800m) on face. Stayed at BC making film and left BC 29th Oct. Batard went directly from Everest to France, where had very busy 2 weeks, and back to Nepal for Lhotse. Would like try face at end of aut or early Dec in few years if no one else succeeds. 

  Maurice Uguen at BC and 100m above, journalist but not climber; dramatized avalanching.


  Batard's friend Maurice Uguen - 2 Nov 88

  Weather difficult - lot of snow avalanche, stone avalanche, seracs on route, lot of wind. Climbed just to see best route on face but only recce. Waited at BC one week and weather not favorable. Did not climb on face.

  Left BC 29 or 30 Oct. Batard returns KTM 16 and Nov and joins his members at Ama Dablam BC after there acclimatization on Kalapattar.


expid: KIRA95101
peakid: KIRA
year: 1995
route1: SW Ridge from Sikkim via Nepal Peak
nation: Austria
leaders: Kurt Elbl
approach: From Sikkim: Gangtok->Kaktang->Yabuk
bcdate: 1995-05-04
smtdate: 1995-05-17
termdate: 1995-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 7150m at S Smt of Nepal Peak due to bad weather
othersmts: Attempted Nepal Peak (NEPA-951-01)
campsites: BC(04/05,4900m),C1(05/05,5500m),C2(12/05,6000m),xxx(17/05,7150m)
agency: None
routememo:
  On 3 May we set up our tents beside the camp of the Japanese Siniolchu expedition and reached Green Lake our base camp 4900m the next day. From 5 to 12 May we were up C1 and C2 on the Nepal Gap glacier. The weather was changeable (sunny in the afternoon and once we had rain in the BC). Meanwhile our expedition doctor came up and went to C1. We tried to set up another camp on the Nepal Peak South Ridge but we failed because of a dangerous crumbling ridge where we found fixed ropes of an earlier expedition. During the next try in the right flank another member of the team got ill and had to be brought back to the BC.

  We had only a short time left so Roman Dirnboeck, a mountain guide, tried to reach the Nepal Peak from C2 and he did it. 

  [Roman Dirnboeck]:
  On 17 May at 30 minutes past midnight the weather isn't that good, but I have to get out of my sleeping bag. I get into my clothes and have breakfast. At 1:15 am I leave the camp and go straight to the South Ridge of Nepal Peak. Most of the time I needed no headlight because of the full moon. The march is very hard sometimes I sink in the snow till the hips. By 3:10 am I reached the ridge (6300m) which looks like the roof of a church. At 6450m I leave part of my material back (one rope, empty bottles, a head lamp and my ice axe).

  By 4 am the sun is rising. In the west I can see Everest and Makalu. I take a short rest for eating and drinking. Looking up I can see a 200m high ridge with big snow cornices which reaches the steep slope. From there's a ridge leading to the highest point. On top slope I leave back my rucksack and take my sticks, my bottle and my camera with me.  At 7000m before I reach the ridge of the top, I avoid a rock zone.

  12:45 pm sees me on the top. I take out my flag and take some photos. The weather is getting bad. After a short break I start my way down. Suddenly an immense crevasse blocks my way down. First I throw down my materials. In course of this the rucksack fell down the southeast face with all the material and the important photos which I had taken from the summit of mountain. Tired and wet I reach C2 at 4 pm where I get tea and hot soup.

  Had planned to continue climbing northward on southwest ridge, scale main summit and go on to scale Tent Peak, but made no attempt to go beyond South Summit of Nepal Peak because of lack of time.


expid: KIRA95301
peakid: KIRA
year: 1995
route1: SW Ridge of Nepal Peak
nation: Germany
leaders: Wolfram Schroeter
bcdate: 1995-10-02
smtdate: 1995-10-25
termdate: 1995-10-29
termnote: Abandoned on Nepal Peak due to lack of time (did not climb on Kirat Chuli)
othersmts: Attempted Nepal Peak (NEPA-953-01)
agency: None
primid: NEPA95301
campsites:
  BC(02/10,4900m),C1(07/10,5550m),C2(10/10,6000m),C3(16/10,6300m),C4(18/10,6600m),S-Smt-Nepal-Peak(25-26/10,7150m)


expid: KJER91101
peakid: KJER
year: 1991
route1: NW Face up; S Ridge down
nation: France
leaders: Olivier Besson
sponsor: French Kanjeralwa Expedition
countries: Spain
approach: Pungmo (near small valley where yaks are taken)
bcdate: 1991-04-29
smtdate: 1991-05-05
smttime: 1400
campsites: BC(29/04,4050m),Biv1(05/05,4900m),Sub-Smt(05/05,6400m)
accidents: 1 member altitude sickness
achievment: 1st traverse
routememo:
  Biv1 on descent on glacier of valley at foot of South Ridge.

  Pungmo people showed way into and up a valley which is just under west side of Kanjeralwa and north of Pungmo Village. 1 May to 5300m on NW Face and deposit gear. 2 May others deposit at 5600m and also down to BC. 5th May 11:00 am left BC and after 1 hour reached foot of face 4450m, all 4 members climbing. Above 5300m deposit, very difficult and roped together but fixed no ropes (too much time) all ice - 60 degrees average steepness, no place to biv. At 2:00 pm reached end of difficulty at 6200m, 250m below top (which is not 6600m high). Cousteix now had pulmonary edema and soon as reached north and highest summit, went down quickly via Japanese 1973 South Ridge, biv at 4900m at 11:00 pm (Cousteix tired but much better) - returned to BC 6th May. South Ridge at first many seracs, then easy, then in valley again difficult. Left biv 5:00 am and reached a river, Pungmo Khola, at 11:00 am and BC reached at 1:00 pm. Even if Cousteix not sick, would not have descended NE Face without fixed ropes. Route up face was "very good route": 1700m-face before attacking NW Face, went to Ringmo Lake and looked at eastern side but not possible to find logical route from east. 

  Scaled highest of Kanjeralwa's many summits. French 1989 on northern most summit were not on the highest one. [Jordi Pons states that they did not climb the highest summit, AAJ (1992)]


expid: GANG91401
peakid: GANG
year: 1991
route1: E Ridge from S
nation: USA
leaders: Timothy Brill
sponsor: Americans to Gangapurna
bcdate: 1991-11-28
smtdate: 1991-12-08
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to difficult glacier and lack of time
othersmts: Climbed Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak)
campsites: BC(28/11,3900m),C1(01/12,4700m),C2(03/12,5200m),xxx(08/12,5800m)
accidents: Kelly serious viral illness; LO became psychotic on approach march
agency: Sherpa Cooperative Trekking (SCT)
routememo:
  BC just on west side of Annapurna III's SSW Ridge
  C1 at grassy ridge line cutting glacier
  C2 at base of yellow rock buttress
  High point at glacier/icefall to west of a rock buttress.

  Glaciers unusually broken up by unusually dry conditions. First climbed Tent Peak for acclimatization then moved onto Gangapurna BC for climb to col between Gangapurna and Annapurna III. But could not find way beyond C2 because rock buttress teaming with falling rocks and glacier on both sides of buttress maze of seracs & crevasses. Was possible route to W Ridge but by 9th Dec decided not enough time and had no permit for W Ridge (plus LO Uma Nath Pandey never reached BC so could not get his permission).


expid: MANA83401
peakid: MANA
year: 1983
route1: NE Face (Japanese 1956 & 1982 Winter rtes)
nation: Canada
leaders: Alan Burgess
sponsor: Canadian Manaslu Winter Expedition
countries: UK
bcdate: 1983-11-20
smtdate: 1983-12-22
termdate: 1983-12-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6860m due to high winds
campsites: BC(20/11,4115m),KoreanBC.Dep(30/11,4875m),C1(24/11,5435m),C2(08/12,6250m),xxx(22/12,6860m)
accidents: None except flu which may be standed chest infection in winter
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  22 Dec Al and Adrian Burgess left C2 9:00 am in good weather with 3 Sherpas at 22,000 ft; very strong winds coming thru N Col at noon. 3 Sherpas sent back camplaining of cold feet. Burgesses went on 1-1/2 hrs more and then winds gusting 100 mph knocking them off their feet. Were few hundred feet below normal C3 where they planned to put a box tent and then down C3. Decided to give up because only one day in six winds permitted climbing and other members weren't ready to take their turn in lead. Didn't have strong enough team, people were sick. All down in BC on 23rd.

  Had excellent relation with same people: Sirdar had helped same in 1979 and expedition had blessing ceremony.

  Support members trekked to dump camp but carried no loads and last of them left on 30 Nov.


  Hannigan, Smith and Jones - 8-9 Jan 84

  Trio slept at C1 at Naike Col on 24 Nov with 2 Sherpas. 30 Nov date not correct for its establishment. Hannigan, Smith and Jones consider this unethical when winter season doesn't begin until 1 Dec.

  Trio fault Burgesses for:
  - inadequate Sherpa clothing
  - insufficient supplies of gear, e.g., only 4 real snowstorms [?] 1/4 inch rope
  - inadequate food supplies and other items such as toilet paper
  - only 3 high camps planned meaning single day carries of 4000+ ft
  - bad and dangerous route-finding; made route (later shifted by 
    others) under dangerous seracs for prolonged periods (1 hurt)
  - no planning or proper leadership and autocratic leader


  Adrian Burgess - Jan 1984

  The expedition gathered in KTM, Nepal on hte last day of Oct 1983 where it was learned that Peter Hillary would not be able to join the expedition because of the death of two of his climbing companions while trying to climb Mt. Makalu in the fall.

  On the 3rd Nov a team of 5 climbing members and 12 accompanying trekkers assembled in the samll town of Gorkha at the beginning of the 200 kms. walk into Manaslu BC.
   
  On the 14th Nov we arrived at a small Tibetan village called Samagaon where our lowland porters were replaced by better clad Tibetan porters. All loads reached BC by the 19th Nov. On the 20th Nov, a local Buddhist Lama blessed the expedition at a traditional Sherpa ceremony; the first time an expedition climbing on this side of the mountain had been favoured in this manner.

  The trail was broken up to 16,000 ft on 21st Nov and local porters helped to stock an "equipment dump."

  By the 25th Nov. Adrian, Allan, and 3 Sherpas had blazed a trail through deep snow to the C1 sited at 18,300 ft and had dug an ice-cave large enough to sleep 5 people.

  From then on the expedition worked mainly as two groups: Group 1 was Alan, Adrian, Dawa Nuru Sherpa, Tenzing Tashi Sherpa and Pema Dorje Sherpa: Group 2 was Trevor and Gordon with Pinzo Sherpa, Gyaltsen Sherpa and Lhakpa Tshering Sherpa.

  On 30th Nov team 1 occupies C1 and works on the route breaking trail and fixing rope where necessary until 4th Dec.

  Team 2 replaces them at C1 and team 1 rests at base camp. The route we were trying to reach C2 by (the French variation) proved impossible due to a badly crevassed area and team 2 eventually reached the site of C2 at 21,500 ft by another way on 7th Dec.

  The teams switched again and team 1 digs and establishes C2 (another ice-cave) as well as loading it with some food and equipment, by 10th Dec.

  On 12th Dec team 1 breaks trail to 6950m and deposits some fixed rope and climbing gear at that point.

  On 15th Dec team 2 occupies C2 while team 1 returns to BC.

  Team 2 also reaches 22,800 ft with additional rope on 16th Dec.

  On 17th Dec team 2 returns to base so that at this point everyone is at base camp.

  On 22nd Dec team 1 start out above C2. At 22,800 ft some of the Sherpas complained of cold feet and fearing a risk of frostbite were sent back to C2. Alan and Adrian continued upward in winds which were gusting to 180 kms per hour. The temperature was about -30 degrees C but no exceptionally adverse effects were experienced due to excellent equipment. The 2 climbers reached 23,300 ft before returning to C2. It was decided that we must wait for a calmer day before all climbers would safely be able to establish C3.

  Another change around for teams was imminent but at the radio call that same evening sickness in BC was reported and so in the face of a depleted team the decision to abandon the expedition was sadly made.

  The mountain was cleared of equipment on the 23rd Dec and left base camp on the 28th Dec.

  KTM was reached on the evening of 6th Jan 1984.


expid: NUMB82101
peakid: NUMB
year: 1982
route1: SW Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Peter McInally
sponsor: New Zealand Himalayan Expedition 1982
ascent1: 4th
bcdate: 1982-03-11
smtdate: 1982-03-29
campsites: BC(11/03),ABC(13/03,5030m),C1(16/03,5640m),C2(28/03,6550m),Smt(29/03)
accidents: MacAlpine altitude sickness
routememo:
  On summit day were almost completely out of food in high camps; weather (high winds and snow) was the problem.

  McInally in snow cave.
  ABC 16,500 ft - 13th or 14th May.
  C1  18,500 ft - 16th
  C2  21,500 ft - 28th

  Old piton found at 21,300 ft by Rob Hall, older than last 34 years, so probably Japanese. Near a peak and perhaps Japanese highest point route was pretty much where expected it to be and apparently same as French. So first route and obvious route up the mountain; saw the crevasses that stopped others. We were in early and in few weeks will be very winds apen.

  2500 ft fixed rope ice cliff's blue ice; extremely hard climbing. No accidents, frostbite.

  McInally and Hall arrived KTM today, others walking out arrived 10 April. All leave 14 April.


  Van Grondelle - 28 March 82

  Bryan Morris and Van Grondelle went to Namche while others went up to ABC. VG became sick to Namche and had bad knee. Others were up above C2 on 23rd above ice cliff. VG flew to KTM 26th ex-Lukla while Morris went back to BC; he plans return to KTM 30th or 31st.

  All others well, no acclimatization problems.
  VG waits for return of others.


  From postcards dated 15 and 16 March 82

  Arrived BC 11 March - 15000 ft 
  ABC at 16,000 ft
  C1 at 18,500 ft 15 March. Expect to be on summit by end of March. Have reached 18,500 ft with some technical difficulties and much cold and wind. All climbers acclimatizing well. "Hope to be on top by 25-26th and home for Easter." 


  Peter - 26 March 82 

  Another card from Peter same date: "C2 is going to be hard as there is 1000 ft of green ice to climb at about 19-20,000 ft. Hope to be there in 4-5 days later.


  McInally - 14 Feb 82

  8 members including 2 BC only. All arrived 13th and leave 19-21st walking to BC in 10 days.
  route = SW Ridge - Friday '81 route 
  BC at about 4400m (14,000 ft)
  3 camps above BC including an ABC which will later be moved up to C3 - altitude of C3 not known till see mountain.
  2 weeks to climb mountain.
  No oxygen at all 
  No Sherpas above BC
  1982 NZ Himalayan Expedition


expid: CHOL82101
peakid: CHOL
year: 1982
route1: SW Ridge-S Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Al Read
sponsor: Mountain Travel Nepal's Expedition to Cholatse 1982
ascent1: 1st
countries: UK
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1982-04-20
smtdate: 1982-04-20
smttime: 1630
termdate: 1982-04-24
campsites: BC(13/04,4700m),C1(20/04,5600m),C2(21/04,5800m),Biv(22/04,6300m),Smt(22/04)
routememo:
  Roskelley: "We climbed it too fast so people are going to think its too easy."

  Cholatse last virgin peak in Khumbu. Very difficult technical climb. No easy route to summit, easiest route is very difficult. One of most difficult routes in Himalayas. Done in difficult way: alpine style, without fixed camps, fixed rope or Sherpas on mountain.
   
  Route was SW Ridge.
  Total time climbing actually 4 days.
  Put camp in first: supply dump established higher than BC, from there started climb.

  April 20-22 BC to top - 35 rope pitches (150 ft each rope pitch)
  20 - BC to 18,400 ft on 15,400 ft
       a col (the camp already put in) by 5 (all except Read).
  21 - Hackett ill (same kind of flu) and stayed at 18,400. Other 4 at 
       19,000 ft that night after having reached 19,400 ft. Found head
       ice climbing all the way to top so decided would have to make all
       all out push without tent to carry and to sleep out.
  22 - Roskelley, best at ice climbing, led all the way and first on   
       top. Left tent at 19,000 ft at 4:30 am and reached top at 4:30 
       pm and went down to summit plateau at 5:30 pm at 20,700 ft without
       shelter and snowed on us but got sleep in sleeping bags that were
       synthetic and not affected by wet.
  23 - reached Hackett at 18,400 ft at noon and all five down to BC at   
       4:00 pm. Left Hackett behind because very few days of good weather
       this spring. 21st and 22nd were good until 2:30 pm on 22nd
       stayed on top very briefly. Electrical effects: buzzing and hair 
       stood on end, afraid of lightning.

  None of us saw any alternate routes any better than ours. Anyone making a good route will have really tough time. Very steep and ice so hard it takes really good ice climber to do it.

  No avalanches.

  Went through an icefall smaller but just as dangerous as Khumbu Icefall (16,500-18,500 ft) danger of seracs falling. 18,400 to 20,700 ft continuously difficult ice climbing and continously more difficult than Everest.

  Roskelley had at least equal ability of Messner says Al Read. Had it not been for Roskelley, Gaurishankar would not have been climbed in 1979.

  Cholatse small, light, fast, cheap expedition.


  Al Read - 1 April 82

  Roskelley, Clevenger, Hackett and O'Connor leave KTM 3rd April to Lukla.
  Galen Rowell leave KTM 6th but joins expedition after trek about 16th. 
  Read joins about 16th also.

  Approach via Khumjung - Pheriche - Dzanglha to pass 5420 to BC
  BC in Charchung Valley southeast of Gokyo at about 16,500 ft.
  Route West Ridge.

  "I think we have pretty good chance of making it (summit), pretty strong team."


  Letter from Bill O'Connor, BC - 25 April

  Cholatse was climbed on April 22nd at Circa 3 pm. Myself Roskelley, Clevinger and Rowell reached the summit. A really fantastic route. We had all understimated it. Had a cold, cold biv in a storm near the summit.


expid: EVER82102
peakid: EVER
year: 1982
route1: N Face (Great Couloir)
nation: USA
leaders: Lou Whittaker
countries: India
approach: Lhasa->Rongbuk Glacier
bcdate: 1982-03-21
smtdate: 1982-05-18
termdate: 1982-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 8400m due to frostbite and Hoey's death
accidents: Marty Hoey fatal fall
campsites:
  BC(21/03,5150m),C1(5730m),C2(6700m),C3(08/04,6860m),C4(18/04,7220m),C5(08/05,7620m),C6(17/05,8080m),xxx(18/05,8400m)

routememo:
  Sept/Oct 82

  The American expedition, led by Lou Whittaker, failed to reach the  summit via  the Great Couloir on the North Face, without porters (yaks got them to 5600m but still 15 kms from the face), they worked up to the cirque of he upper central Rongbuck Glacier, C2, C4 and C5 were established straight up the face on April 8, 18 and May 8th at 6860m, 7220m and 7620m respectively. The weather deteriorated in May slowing progress. 

  On May 15th Larry Nielson and Dave Mahre were searching for the site of C6 while Marty Hoey and Jim Wickwire were sitting just below on a small rock out crop of the middle of the couloir at 8015m, anchored to an ice screw just above the rock. Wickwire who had climbed K2 in 1978, started to move upward and Hoey moved on one side to let him by. The waist belt of her harness popped open, she lost her balance and plunged 1800m down the slope.
   
  A summit attempt was made three days later by Nielson, Eric Simonson and George Dunn in which Nielson got up the yellow band just right of the Great Couloir at 8400m, but he suffered frostbite. Wickwire went high on May 22. Yet the expedition was really over after Marty Hoey's death. No artificial oxygen was used by anyone on the expedition, Marty Hoey's previous visit to the Himalaya, to Nanda Devi in 1976, was halted when she nearly died of dysentery and had to evacuated by helicopter.


expid: AMAD82101
peakid: AMAD
year: 1982
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Sue Giller
sponsor: American Women's Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 19th,20th
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 1982-04-03
smtdate: 1982-04-20
smttime: 1530
termdate: 1982-04-28
campsites: BC(03/04,4900m),C1(07/04,5700m),C2(11/04,5900m),C3(18/04,6300m),Smt(20,22/04)
accidents: None
routememo:
  Route was almost exactly same as Frost route, but difficult hard rotten ice instead of the snow frost found to be on easy walk.


  Letter from Tanya Lee - 23 April 1982

  We were 100% successful. As I write you before Shari, Lucy Stacy and Susan summited on 20 April. We had a quite snowstorm that eve. But the next day it was clear and so group 2 Sue Giller, Anne, Jini, and the Heidi moved up to Camp 3.

  On 22 April, they left C3 at 5 am and four gained the summit at approx 2:45 pm.
  We are presently clearing the mountain and expect to depart base camp 30 April.


  Letter from Tanya Lee 

  Shari, Lucy, Susan Havens and Stacy reached the summit on 20th April 1982 at approx 3:45 pm. They left from C3 which they established on 18th April.

  The other 1/2 of our climbing team, Sue Giller, Anne, Jini and Heidi, will move to Camp 3 tomorrow as then first summit group descends to C2 to wait on support. On 22 April, the second group will leave C3 for the summit, hopefully arriving by early afternoon.

  Suffice it to say, the weather is going downhill - more clouds early afternoon  precip, etc. at base and Camp 1. But spirits are soaring and health is terrible.


  Letter from Tanya Lee - 15 April 1982

  Things are just like clock work here - as with Sue Griller in charge there is not much room for stuff. She runs an organised efficient operation. C2 was occupied by Susan Havens, Stacy Allison and Shari Kearney on 11 April. From that point, they began work on the route to C3 and as of today - are probably there right now (yesterday they were with two rope lengths of the camp site).

  Plans are for C3 to be occupied 17 April with the first group going to the summit 18 April; 2nd Group 20 April. As it looks now - Shari, Stacey, Susan Haven and Lucy will compose the first group and Heidi, Jini, Sue and Anne, will be the 2nd group.


  Letter from Susan Havens - April 4, 1982

  Today Stacey Allison and Lucy Smith hiked up to C1 at 18,700 ft to mark the route and check the camp and tomorrow - we began making carries.

  The snow line has been steadily rising and we can get to C1 without crossing snow (now). The route above here looks in good shape, with not too much snow over the rock.

  We are all in good spirits with only minor health problems bothering some of us.


expid: MANA82101
peakid: MANA
year: 1982
route1: NE Face (variation above C4)
nation: Spain
leaders: Enric Font
sponsor: Catalan Manaslu Expedition
bcdate: 1982-04-12
smtdate: 1982-05-10
termdate: 1982-05-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to fatal avalanche, bad weather and heavy snowfall
campsites:
  BC(12/04,3850m),C1(13/04,4850m),C2(22/04,5600m),C3(02/05,6300m),C4(05/05,6950m),C5(06/05,7400m),xxx(10/05,7600m)

routememo:
  C2 changed from first place because dangerous: 1st camp at 5500m, 2nd made on 22 April at 5600m.

  25-29 April heavy snowfall and 29th big avalanche destroyed supply dump above C2. 6 out of 45 days had good weather. C4 not permanent camp but transit camp and its food moved up to C5. 

  3 members [Canals, Font and Aymerich] to C5 on 6th May. Canals to C2 down on 9th May because lost his overboot.

  8th May bad weather and very windy at C5; blew out Canals' overboot from near entrance to tent. 10th May Font and Aymerich arrived at 7600m in summit attempt in early morning and returned to C5; about 9 or 10 am turned back because clouds brought snow at 7 pm. By walkie-talkie said they were not feeling well, no food and fuel and if weather on 11th permitted, they would come down.

  11th May 6 am radio contact no answer and weather continued bad: 1m snow at C2 previous night and on 11th. Those in C2 intended to go down to get more food but fresh snow and track lost so could not go down; in C2 also bad with no food, 2 fuel cartridges and one sick man. All camps almost exhausted in food and fuel supplies after avalanche had destroyed important supplies. People in C2 and C5 only; C3 very dangerous place and only to sleep and leave quickly. Nice only in BC, so would have had to leave mountain very soon in any case.

  12th May morning weather good and clear but at noon snowfall again. In am can see 150m mark of huge avalanche to C5 and 200m more below C5=350m total avalanche trail. C5 not to be seen and no movement on mountain. On 12th all down from C2 to BC for food and fuel for rescue party to retrieve bodies, leaving C2 tents to reoccupy them on 13th. 13th May a rescue party arrived 5300m and then bad weather continued and had to return to BC. 14th afternoon more bad weather and rescue cancelled and left BC for KTM. 

  Sama under 40cm snow, potato crop ruined and no food supply available there. Could buy more food only on 18th when got to lower village and even here difficult to buy eggs because chicken disease had killed off most chickens. Arrived KTM 23 May.

  Manaslu not difficult: avalanche danger but in good weather it can be climbed route=NE Face. C4 and C5 more to left than usual because more direct to top than going to col and because snow is better.

  2 men had small fall into crevasse but saved by rope
  3 men have same frostbite but not serious (not black)

accidents:
  2 men had small fall into crevasse but saved by rope; 3 men have some frostbite but not serious (not black); 2 killed by avalanche at C5


expid: KANG82102
peakid: KANG
year: 1982
route1: N Face-N Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Reinhold Messner
sponsor: Messner Kangchenjunga Expedition
ascent1: 12th
countries: Canada
bcdate: 1982-04-06
smtdate: 1982-05-06
smttime: 1530
campsites: BC(06/04,5000m),C1(10/04,5800m),C2(18/04,6700m),C3.Biv(03/05,7400m),C4.Biv(05/05,8000m),Smt(06/05)
routememo:
  Messner - 22 May 82

  Mutschlechner some frostbite right-hand fingers and both feet and toes. "I survived again" (reported dead on 1978 solo of Nanga Parbat). "One of my hardest climbs, only 2 men to lead." All green ice from begin to end of face.

  Icefall = Japanese route 8 ladders and we had no ladders above, to ridge and joined Brit route for 300-400m on ridge. Then to big plateau and again to left to N Ridge to last biv on ridge at 8000m. Followed ridge, following Indians 1977 to 8400m. Then crossed last part of N Face on steep snow and then Japanese route to top. Started from BC 1 May for summit push; had 400m rope and Japanese had used 2700m. So Sherpa went down brought 200m more from Ghunsa. Had waited in C3 at 7400m all night; weather not good and needed rest.

  3 Sherpas carried to C4 at 8000m and on 6th May one Ang Dorje went to top with Messner and Mutschlechner in good weather in beginning but windy and stormy. Last part quite steep and slow using rope. Reached top 3:30 pm after climbing since 7:00 am. Found oxygen bottles on way down, had terrible snowstorm and with last strength and last light reached highest biv at 7:00 pm. Mutschlechner got frostbite. Couldn't sleep as wind so strong sometimes couldn't move. Had to descend and got to C2 when wind not so strong. 

  No oxygen with expedition at all. C1 and C2 = fixed camps, C3 and C4 = bivs.

  Mutschlechner frostbitten toes, 2 weeks to heal, will go home. Messner will go to Kashmir and Ladakh. Mutschlechner may came to Cho Oyu, but not to Karakorams and join 2 Pakistanis, Sher Khan and Sabir Nazir.


  Letter from Nena and Layla - May 4, 1982

  Here things are going on the way they should - a little bit of up and down the mountain. Over a week ago they all had to retreat because of lack of enough fixed rope. Reinhold says that actually this mountain is really way too large, steep and demanding for a two-man team. Lhakpa and Phurba (Ang Dorje's brother) went down to Ghunsa and after 3 days returned with 225 meters of fixed rope left by the Japanese. That was bought at 7 Rs per meter. So now they are back in business and 5 days ago they went back up to try and fix the last pitches up to 7400m where they would like to set up 2 biv tents as C3. Reinhold told me this would be the plan:

  1st day C1 - Sherpas Ang Dorje and Nawang Tenzing
  2nd day C1 - Reinhold, Friedl, Lhakpa, Phurba and 
          C2 - Ang Dorje and Nawang Tenzing
  3rd day C2 - Reinhold, Friedl, Lhakpa, Phurba while Ang Dorje and Nawang Tenzing 
               would carry up all gear and food following 2 hours behind
               (That should have been yesterday but yesterday was too 
               windy) - no movement.

  Today I watched them from C2 to about 7200m then at 1:00 pm. The clouds closed in. I never saw the Sherpas following only 2 figures which I believe were Reinhold and Friedl were ascending. I don't know if they made it. The weather has gone bad again. The finish of the plan from Reinhold was: if they felt good at C3 and weather was good, they would try for the bivouack below the summit pyramid - then summit.

  They would probably only take Ang Dorje above camp. Reinhold would like to take him to the summit with them. If the weather was bad or they were tired after reaching C3 they would retreat - perhaps as far as C1 depending the weather. So I guess if it's clear tomorrow morning I can find them again. Through one Minolta 1600 Telelens and see if they are going up or down; but the weather is really not too favourable at present. It's as if the monsoon is already trying to reach here. It's warm in the daytime and still freezing at night. Right now its snowing very lightly. It's about 7:30 pm.

  I guess so that all makes more sense for you. I better inform you that they aren't on the Japanese route. They have made a new route up to the ridge slightly further to the right then using the approach to the North Col as the British did. Then they are following more or less on the British route up the ridge. Then up a steep rock step to the flat scree slope that leads across to the Japanese 3rd snow field then on up as the Japanese did to summit. They hope to bivouack at about 8000m.                             


expid: KANG82101
peakid: KANG
year: 1982
route1: SW Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Franco Garda
sponsor: Kangchenjunga Exp of Unione Valdostana Guide de Alta Mont
ascent1: 11th
bcdate: 1982-03-26
smtdate: 1982-05-02
smttime: 1600
accidents: No accidents, little frostbite only
campsites:
  LowBC(26/03,4400m),HighBC(03/04,5516m),C1(08/04,6350m),C2(20/04,6900m),C3(26/04,7300m),C4(01/05,7628m),Smt(02/05)

routememo:
  In 48 days, 7-8 days fine weather, other days much snow. In 2 days after success snow in high BC 60 cm.

  Low BC at 4400m near start of Yalung Glacier. Arrived 26th March high BC 5516m, same as 1955 expedition on 3 April.

  From C1 down 250m, very difficult, and across glacier and up a small ridge; made ropeway to ferry across.

  Summit 2 May by Menabreaz, Squinobal and Nga Temba; Squinobal and Nga Temba used no oxygen at all. Also in summit attempt of 2 May Chenny and Ang Chopal Sherpa reached 8000m and then turned back because not in good condition. No more summit attempts because too much snow falling for day after day. Only 4 fine days were at time of successful summit attempt. 2 May finest day of all. Route was as same as 1955 route. Because of bad weather, decided not to try pillar.


expid: MAK282101
peakid: MAK2
year: 1982
route1: S Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Carlos Ochoa
sponsor: Basque Kangchuntse Expedition
bcdate: 1982-04-05
smtdate: 1982-04-21
termdate: 1982-04-23
termnote: Abandoned at 7350m due to horrible weather
campsites: BC(05/04,4800m),C1(10/04,5300m),C2(12/04,6200m),C3(18/04,6600m),C4(20/04,7000m),xxx(21/04,7350m)
accidents: No accidents or frostbite
routememo:
  Tried alpine-style from C1 after having carried loads there. 4 went with 2 tents (except Ollaquindia) and food for 5-6 days on 18 April. One day snowstorm at C3 with strong wind. 20th April again up to 7000m. 21 April made summit attack and reached 7350m. Icy slope (45-50 degrees) which was most interesting part of climb. Began to snow and did not feel strong enough and went back to 7000m. 22 April very bad weather all day and ran out of food so went down to C2.

  23 April to C1 was worst day, horrible weather.

  Made no other climbing attempts because all men climbing all the time and carrying the loads so tired and no food. 

  No acclimatization trouble, no accidents or frostbite.
  Route = South Face = Terray is route; did not go to NW Ridge because wanted quick ascent with their food shortage. Last section this route would require time to fixed rope.


  Ochoa

  Route = NW Ridge up: ski descent by 1 member 
  All 5 members arrived 7 March, leave KTM 18 March by truck to Dharan
  Arrive BC about 4 April at 4800-5000m 
  2 camps before Ridge
  C1 6000m 
  C2 6500m base of NW Ridge
  C2 7000m - midridge if necessary; if ridge in good condition, no C3 but 
     alpine-style above C2
  About 4 weeks climb = early May on top 
  No Sherpas above BC
  Medical oxygen only.


expid: FANG82101
peakid: FANG
year: 1982
route1: E Face-E Ridge-S Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Sylvain Sarthou
sponsor: Pyrenean Expedition to Fang
bcdate: 1982-04-22
smtdate: 1982-05-06
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(22/04,4300m),C1(23/04,5200m),C2(02/05,6000m),C3(04/05,6400m),xxx(08/05,6800m)
accidents: No accidents or frostbite
routememo:
  Snowed everyday, so dangerous from avalanches - also from seracs - snowed 20 days.

  C1 to C2 much deep snow fell hence long time before C2 established. A member went up couloir on East Face of East Ridge to 6800m to dump gear on 6th May. Then snow fell 1m deep. So gave up on 8th May - but C2 under snow and uninhabitable were going to East Ridge of Fang which was like S Face of Annapurna. Ridge is rocky with 5 little peaks as one goes higher. Pass at 7000m was goal to get onto ridge and to see what is behind it. Was on glacier southeast of Fang. Everyday snow avalanches came down.


expid: DHA182101
peakid: DHA1
year: 1982
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Eduard Abts
sponsor: Belgian Dhaulagiri I Expedition 1982
ascent1: 18th,19th
bcdate: 1982-04-04
smtdate: 1982-05-05
termdate: 1982-05-15
achievment: 1st ascent by a woman
agency: Mountain Travel
campsites:
  BC(04/04,4600m),C1(09/04,5150m),C2(12/04,5700m),C3(17/04,6450m),C4(24/04,7100m),C5(04/05,7650m),Smt(05-06/05)

routememo:
  Lots of snow. C3 buried twice, found it first time after 2 days but not second time; second time climb was finished anyway. C2 this time also under snow. BC normally has no snow but constant snow this time.

  Left BC 15th May. Had to wait for weather to permit clearing mountain; all off mountain by 14th and all safe.

  No one used oxygen at all for any reason throughout expedition. No oxygen used at all even for medical reasons.

  More went to summit than between expected. Without Sherpas success impossible, they make tracks.

  Much snowfall all time. Arrived BC one week late, could not return via Dhampus Pass. Rest of expedition leaves BC about 17 May. Detienne left 11 May. All finally down in BC by 16 May.

  Summit attempt at end of April by Van Snick, Cornellisen, Ang Rita and Ang Jangbu, but could not reach C5 because of weather and good food shortage (Abts had cut food supplies in KTM). Reached about 7500m.

  7 May another and last attempt by Abts, Sebille, Sungdare and Ang Phurba from C5 early am. At 10:15 said on walkie-talkie we return because of wind and snow. Reached 8015m. Went down to C3 same day and to BC on 8 May.


  Telex message received KTM:
  11 April from Abts to Antwerp says
  BC reached 1 April and fully established 4 April.
  Climbing started 7 April


  Abts - 8 March 82

  Members are all Flemish
  Leave KTM 10 March and arrive BC 4 April 
  BC at about 5200m so called total BC (low because of lots of recent snow), 
     then dump and new BC at 5800m. 
  C1 on glacier. NE Col C2, plus 3 more camps.
  8 climbing members
  4 Sherpas above BC
  1st Belgian expedition to Himalayas at BC
  Oxygen med only
  Summit beginning of May
  Knows of no previous Belgians


expid: LSHR82101
peakid: LSHR
year: 1982
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Hans Berger
sponsor: Swiss Lhotse Shar Expedition
bcdate: 1982-04-06
smtdate: 1982-05-03
termnote: Abandoned at 7450m due to strong winds
campsites: BC(06/04,5200m),C1(13/04,6150m),C2(25/04,6650m),C3(03/05,7450m),xxx(03/05,7450m)
accidents: No accidents or frostbite
routememo:
  4 came down to Pheriche after 1st camp in good snow conditions; when wanted to put in 2nd camp started snowing; deep snow and avalanches; went back to mountains and put in C2 after ? hrs. walk for 100m of route; C1 to C2 is steeped and most dangerous from seracs and avalanches; after C2 put in, down to BC for rest.

  From C2 to C3 Sherpas did not carry so members had to do all the work. C3 placed and twice occupied; wanted to go to top on 4th but stove not working and again on 7th or 8th but storm so strong could hardly come down and many avalanches; Hans blown sideways; all but Trummer were in C3 for this attempt.

  High avalanches turned around and went upwards, wind was so strong in mid-April. Did not lose any tents or much equipment.

  Lhotse Shar in middle of snowstorms while Ama Dablam, Lhotse and Everest clear. Came down from C3 to BC on 8th May and that was end of climb (Sherpas up to clear lower camps after this).

  Route= SE Ridge with same variations on last expedition route above 1st camp.
  No accidents or frostbite.
  No technical problems above C3 but did not get above C3.
  Used no oxygen


  Erwin and Havens, Ama Dablam - 6 May 82

  Lhotse Shar in mid-April. Were at Pheriche regrouping after such strong winds that avalanche going upwards.


  Berger and Clapasson - 24 March 82

  Route = SE Ridge same as Swiss 
  KTM 26 March to Lukla arrived BC after 10-12 days at 5300m east of Island Peak and beside Lhotse Shar Glacier.

  3 camps on ridge:
   C1 - 6600m
   C2 - 7300m
   C3 - 7800-7900m

  Arrived BC around 5 April, summit 4 weaks later; 2 Sherpas above BC. 
  Oxygen for medical use.


  Swiss Lhotse Shar Expedition

  No plan to go on to Lhotse and main peak; we are very small group.
  75 porters from Lukla.
  Berger returns to KTM in late May - has trekking clients in Khumbu after climb. 


expid: ANN182101
peakid: ANN1
year: 1982
route1: N Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Hanns Schell
sponsor: Austrian Annapurna I Expedition
ascent1: 11th
countries: Czechoslovakia, Switzerland
bcdate: 1982-04-12
smtdate: 1982-05-04
smttime: 1230
campsites: BC(12/04,4250m),C1(10/04,5000m),C2(14/04,5600m),C3(20/04,6400m),C4(03/05,7100m),Smt(04/05)
routememo:
  Both Austrian-Swiss and German expedition running together except for summit. No problem between groups [thus combined description for both expeditions].

  Germans arrived BC 5 April at 4250m; Schell and his Austrian-Swiss team arrived BC 12 April and BC 50m different.

  C1 5000m 10 April occupied. Aust-Swiss had C1 same place
  C2 5600m 14 April Germans and Austrians at same altitude
  C3 6400m Austrian 20 April
  C3 6300m Germans 21 April
  C4 in snowcave by Germans 6800m on 3 May
  C4 by Austrians at 7100m also on 3 May
  C5 by Germans at 7250m on 5 May (Austrian-Swiss had no C5)

  Germans tried summit on 6 May: Beyerlein, Guenther, Kirner and Lechleitner. No Sherpas because Germans had no Sherpas. 7950m reached. Beyerlein spent 4 days in C5 and tried a second time for summit with Kuehn 9 May; reached 7300m only this time.

  No success for Germans: strong storm and very cold.
  Germans used no oxygen; one has frostbitten toes; no accidents.

  Shanti Rai helping clear route but C2 and C3 very difficult, very steep. He was given big load by Sherpas who did not wait for him. He alone in chimney, maybe fall backwards with load. Disappeared and definitely is dead. Was stormy: snowfall with wind and cold that day.

  7 yesterday, others arrive about 27-8 May. at Shakti Hotel.


  Schell - 12 May 82

  4 left BC 7th evening; others started from BC on 13th and arrived 21 or 22 May (at Ambassador).

  C4 by Germans at 6800m
  C4 at 7100m by Austrians on 3 May
  C5 on 5 May at 7300m by Germans

  4 May at 2:00 am 6 set out for top from C4: Woergoetter, Buerkli, Haegler, Buholzer and Fehlmann. Buholzer and Fehlmann dropped out at 7900m tired. Other 4 to top, 12:30 by Dawa Tenzing and Woergoetter and other 2 about 3:00 pm. Little windy on top but fine even for 2nd pair. 1-1/2 hour on top and returned to C4 at 5:00 pm and other Haegler at 6:30 and Buerkli at 7:30 pm.

  Buerkli arrived at C4, spoke few words and collapsed. Tried for 4-1/2 hours to revive him but leader and doctor believe he died immediately on arrival at C4.

  Next group (Austrian-Swiss) and in C3 that day and on 6 May tried for top but did not get above 7900m, same as Germans.
   
  3rd and 4th groups from Austria were to try and may be Germans also. Doubt they could have succeeded because bad weather. Body not possible to bring down so left in crevasse at 7100m near C4.

  Dutch Rib not possible now but in autumn good. Followed Spanish East Peak route and then Germans Middle Peak route and thence to top. Over 1000m fixed rope.


  Werner and Egertz - 23 April 82

  By first group:
  BC 4250m
  C1 5100m
  C2 5850m depot - 6 April 
  Hans Schell arrived BC 7 or 8 April
  Egertz left expedition because of sickness on 19 April. 


  Schell - 7 April 82

  Schell and last 3 others of Austrians group leave KTM today and arrive BC after 8 days. Main Austrian party arrive BC 2 days from now.

  Germans have no H-A Sherpas
  Austrians have 4 H-A Sherpas
  Austrians have 12 med oxygen only
  All must climb same route (Dutch rib)

  Germans permitted to go to site of C2 (5500m) only; not even to establish camp there until Schell arrives BC. Then all decide exact route and climb proceeds. 

  Schell expects both parties camps to be very near each other, but lack of space on rib will require same slight distance between them.

  BC - 4400m
  C1 - 5000-5100m (only for acclimatization and emergency)
  C2(ABC) - 5500m
  C3 - 6300m
  C4 - 7000m
  C5 - 7500m
  Summit early May

  All must leave BC before or with Schell. None can stay on after he leaves. Schell expects return KTM late in May, but must give chance to all to go to summit.


  Austrian Annapurna I

  4 arrived KTM 7 March and 10 more came 14th. All are Germans except Umlauft. Sherpas above BC.

  Annapurna I North Face Dutch route

  Leave 17-19 March and arrive BC about 10-12 days later.

  Hanns Schell's group of 18 arrive 15 and 22 March and Schell on 4 April and join at BC 1-2 weeks later.

  7 Sherpas above BC
  5 camps above BC with C5 at 7000-7200m 
  Summit 15-20 May
  Oxygen medical only


expid: CHOY82101
peakid: CHOY
year: 1982
route1: SE Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Wolfgang Nairz
sponsor: Austrian Cho Oyu Expedition 1982
countries: W Germany
bcdate: 1982-04-18
smtdate: 1982-05-04
termdate: 1982-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to fatal avalanche
campsites: BC(18/04,5170m),C1(30/04,5900m),C2(06/05,6550m),xxx(04/05,6900m)
accidents: Oelz severe AMS
routememo:
  Nairz - 27 May 82

  BC - 5170m 18 April
  Depot 5300m on glacier 21 April (used for making route to C1)
  C1 5900m 30 April

  Quite difficult route to C1 - rocks and then 40m overhang. From C1 very steep to seracs (but safe). 6200m big plateau, then up 6550m to C2 north lower end of face. In C1 1st time on 6th May (had been there on 4th May) and then all down to BC for rest.

  3 started up on 12th to C1 to C2. May 13/14 night weather 1m fresh snow in C2 and down to BC again. A member [Mayr] had tooth problem and went down. 

  May 17th 2 to C1. 
  May 18th 2 to C2 and Mayr to C1.
  May 19th an avalanche. 

  C2 was in crevasse in bergschrund - safe place, nothing hanging over camp. Avalanche of ice came down face and on top of 2 tents in C2. Nairz had just before being hit, pulled head over his face. Karl's face smashed in. 5 Sherpas' tent not covered by avalanche itself but felt blast. Came out of tent within seconds. After 20 mins found Karl and 15 mins later found Nairz who was unconscious. Carried him to their tent, put him in 2 sleeping bags and gave oxygen. After 2 hrs became conscious.

  Nairz's right leg broken and right hand bruised and swollen. Left C2 9:30 am, very slowly and under sedative but impossible to be carried. Before leaving buried Karl in crevasse near C2. Met Mayr coming up, realizing something must be wrong cause saw no track above C1 towards site for C3 at 7400m-7500m at top of steep part. Plan was Nairz and Karl to make route to C3, a biv and Mayr to catch up with them there. 5 Sherpas to carry to C3 and one Maila Pemba to stay for next day's summit bid while other 4 to stay in C2. BC just W of Thonak Tsho lake (where Japanese had theirs).

  Route up Lungsampa Glacier. Depot camp at "s" in Lungsampa Glacier on Schneider map. Then across rock east and northeast of depot, up glacier north of their rock. C1 at end of rock, before ice. C2 due east of summit.

  Route same as Austria-German in upper part of climb, i.e., from C2 upwards. Below mountain now different from then.

  This SE Face route is only route from Nepali side at all safe and possible today.

  S Ridge is possible to 7000m and then too difficult steep rock and really vertical ice wall.

  SW Face not seen by this team in lower part, but upper can be seen as overhanging and steep rock pillars threatened by avalanches.

  On SE Face most difficult part is up to 6200m. Highest point reached was 6900m on 4th May by all 3 members.


  Nairz - 9 April 82

  Route = SE Face probably, perhaps ENE Ridge (which is not permitted).

  BC somewhere on Lungsampa Glacier or thereabouts perhaps near a lake; altitude not now known. 

  Does not believe Saleki reached summit. Also doubts Stammberger reached summit earlier.

  3-4 camps above BC. Arrive BC 15-16 April.


  Letter from Nairz, BC - 15 May 1982

  Our first summit was stopped by heavy snowfall in C2 (1-1/2 m snow in 5 hours). We nearly had problems to come down to BC.

  Now if the weather is good we will try again and start on May 17.

  The only thing what we need now is good weather for 4-5 days. Maila Pemba sirdar will try with us to reach the summit.


  Letter from Nairz, BC - 8 May 82

  After 7 days work on the mountain we came down for rest in BC. We have established C2 in 6500m and had been up to about 7000m.

  Now on May 11 we will start to try the summit. C1 (5900m), C2, (6520m) from there we will go up to about 7500m, make a bivouack there and start on the next day to the summit. We all 3 feel quite well and we hope we can do it. The way is quite difficult.

  Now after the doctor, 1 Sherpa is at Khunde with hepatitis and another we send out today, probably the same.


  Letter from Nairz, BC - 24 April 1982

  We reached BC on April 18, an altitude of 5170m. On the next day I went over the glacier for reconnaissance, on April 20 [with] R. Mayr and R. Karl. But we must see that on the right side of the big rock pillar is no possibility, so we wanted to stay on the other side the next day. But on this day morning, the April 21, the doctor Oswald Oelz was unconscious in his tent, with severe high altitude sickness. We send immediately one sirdar to the Namche Radio to ask for helicopter and we started to carry him down on a stretcher, down to Gokyo; it took us 7 hours and he got better. Fortunately we met Swiss Doctors in Gokyo. They had some medicines, the other R. Karl brought from BC (he run up in 2 hours from Gokyo). I ran out to Khunde in 5 hours to bring some oxygen and more medicines in case the helicopter will not come on the next day. R. Mayr and the Sherpas carried the doctor the whole night. In the morning he was better and at 8:30 on April 22, the helcopter arrived.

  If we had not met this 2 Swiss Doctors, I'm sure that Dr. Oelz had been dead. It was like 2 wonders.

  Now, today R. Mayr and R. Karl looked on the other side of the rock pillar and some hours ago they told me by radio that there is a good possibility to reach the top of the pillar, we need only about 400m fixed ropes.

  So we will start tomorrow to climb up and to prepare the way for the Sherpas and we hope that we can establish C1 in the next 4 days. It should be about 6000m high.

  We all others are now quite well acclimatized and we hope that also the weather will be good the next week.


expid: MAKA82101
peakid: MAKA
year: 1982
route1: SE Ridge-E Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Hahm Tak-Young
sponsor: Makalu Expedition Korean Alpine Club
ascent1: 17th
bcdate: 1982-03-30
smtdate: 1982-05-20
smttime: 1400
termdate: 1982-05-28
accidents: No frostbite and no accidents
campsites:
  BC(30/03,4750m),C1(04/04,5400m),C2(11/04,5900m),C3(15/04,6680m),C4(04/05,7200m),C5(17/05,7400m),C6(19/05,7700m),Smt(20/05)

routememo:
  Heo on top 20th May with Pasang Norbu and Ang Phurba - found a wooden toy red, black & white turtle in crack in rock near 2-3m summit with ice piton (which must be Kukuczka's toy left last Oct). Heo left in place of toy a carabinier and 4-leaf clover from Korea.

  Route = Through SE Ridge from S Col C3.

  When reached C5, changed to E Face. 1st climbed to get this face to top - more direct route - E Face to be known as Korean face.

  C4 to C5 almost 2 weeks because strong winds with some snow and members resting in BC for attack. 3 summiters made C5 and C6 and then to summit.

  2nd summit assault scheduled but suddenly weather very bad with storm and wind - not enough food in camps because stayed so long in KTM and half of Sherpas sick.

  20th May left C6 4:30 am reached top 2:00 pm. 40 minutes on top in clouds and wind. Returned to C6 at 6:30 pm. Found toy when going to top, only 2-3m below top, which is too pointed for 3 members to stand. 4 members left BC 23 May and arrived KTM 29th May; others all in BC on 23rd, not going up to clear more gear & left BC 28th May and arrived KTM 15-16 June.

  Heo proud to be 1st Korean on Makalu summit - happy when reached top.


  Shim & Hahn - 27 Feb 82

  route = SE Ridge complete from beginning - same as Japanese spring 70
  BC at normal route 4700m
  Then divide into 2 parties - A route is new = Korean route join again at C3 near South Col at 6600m
  Above C4 is Black Gendarme very difficult section - from here across gendarme to C5.

  Start climb about 5 April and 2-3 summit attacks 15-20 May.
  Baggage now in CCU port - arrives KTM 9-10 March.

  Leave KTM about 12-13 March bus to Dharan farther and then walk.
  Arrive BC 30 March
  9 Sherpas above BC including sirdar and 5 high altitude porters to C3 = 14 Sherpas above Base

  35 oxygen bottles for summit attempt, medical use and same sleeping. Want to climb without oxygen if possible.

  All members now in KTM except surgeon, who arrives 3 March: 3 climbers, 3 Drs and 2 leadership.


expid: TILI82101
peakid: TILI
year: 1982
route1: N Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Lt. Col. Gopal Singh Bohra
sponsor: Nepal Army Tilicho Mountaineering Expedition
ascent1: 7th,8th
bcdate: 1982-04-13
smtdate: 1982-04-30
smttime: 1615
campsites: BC(13/04,5030m),C1(21/04,5477m),C2(28/04,6000m),Smt(30/04,02/05)
accidents: No accidents, frostbite or serious illness
routememo:
  BC at 16,500 ft ridge NW of Tilicho Peak and SW of Mesokantu Pass established 13 April. C1 at 5477m down from BC and then again up glacier to small summit on NE Ridge on 21 April. C2 at 6000m on ridge to its termination and then on N Face on 28 April. 

  30 April went to top. No C3 because no place to put a camp. Left C2 at 6:00 am and arrived 16:15 hrs on summit. By 1st party: Chotare Sherpa, Lt. Sundar Pratap Rana Magar, Sgt. Man Dhoj Thapa Magar, Phu Tenzing (Asst Chief Instructor), Pasang Sherpa (Sirdar), Nima Kancha Sherpa (Mtn guide), Sgt. Gopal Bdr Tamang.

  2 May - 2nd team to top: Ang Kami Sherpa (Asst. Chief Instructor), 
  Jemidar Tula Bahadur Gurung, Sgt. Padma Bdr Tamang, Surya Bdr Tamang, Hira Bdr Rana Magar, Girmi Sherpa (Mtn guide).

  11 climbing climbing members including leader, of these 10 went to top (leader only to C1). 5 mountain guides including sirdar but only 4 went above BC & LO who went to C1 to take photo.

  Had oxygen for medical use and one member used it while descending from summit. Had used route expected to use, NE Ridge: had earlier done recce.


  Minister of Tourism files - 28 Feb 82

  Route - northeast - approach from Pokhara to Kesang to BC.
  Besides 2 Sherpas members, expedition has 1 sirdar, Pasang Sherpa, 40, from Taksindu District and 4 "mtn guides" who are Sherpas.

  LO is Maj. Balaram Adhikari, 31, of Dhading Dist.


expid: LAMJ82101
peakid: LAMJ
year: 1982
route1: SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Chung Keel-Soon
sponsor: Korean Women's 1982 Mt. Lamjung Himal Expedition
ascent1: 11th,12th
bcdate: 1982-04-08
smtdate: 1982-05-06
smttime: 1220
campsites: BC(08/04,3800m),C1(15/04,4900m),C2(20/04,5300m),C3(02/05,6300m),Biv(05/05,6900m),Smt(06/05)
routememo:
  All in KTM
  BC 3800m - 8 April
  C1 4900m - 15 April
  C2 5300m - 20 April
  C3 6300m - 2 May
  C2-C3 difficult steep knife ridge and very strong wind.

  Summit 6 May
    Miss Key
    Ang Rita Sherpani
    Nima Wangchu
    Dawa Wangchu

  On top at 12:20 and met Japanese from other side.

  The 1st party [Key, Ang Rita, Nima Wangchu, Dawa Wangchu] left C3 on 5th May at 09:00 hrs and biv 100m below summit in crevasse with biv sheet because were late and last 100m vertical blue ice, which hadn't been able to see from below and did not know was there. Next day at 08:00 started up again and fixed rope [and reached top at 12:20 hrs].

  2nd Party [Youn, Ang Phurba, Pemba Tshering] left C3 on 6th May 05:00 hrs and reached top at 14:30 hrs.

  Route = SE Ridge as per photo and diagram in brochure.

  1st party little frostbite from biv, but not serious. Expedition really controlled by Korean male BC manager Kim Kyung-Bae who was experienced climber on 4 previous climbs inlcuding Manaslu; he directed climb from down below.


  Chung - 14 March 82

  Route = SE Ridge.

  All 5 members arrived 7th, leave KTM 23 March (late departure because baggage still in Calcutta). Charter bus to Dumre and then march in to Chame and BC. Arrive BC in 7 days trek at 3800m. 

  Camps above BC with C4 at 6500m; maybe C3 at 6200m and no C4 necessary; depends on weather and conditions on mountain. 

  Most difficult part of route is just below C3's 6000m which is steep section.
  4 weeks BC to summit.
  8 Sherpas above BC (3 of them women including sirdar Ang Rita Sherpani).
  Medical oxygen only
  All members work for Sunkyang Ltd, big business/commercial house and are members of Sunkyang Alpine Club.
  Cameraman maybe go as high as C1
  1st Korean woman's expedition in Himalayas.


expid: LSIS82101
peakid: LSIS
year: 1982
route1: S Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiroshi Inoue
sponsor: Nagoya University Nepal Himalaya Expedition 1982
ascent1: 1st,2nd
bcdate: 1982-04-01
smtdate: 1982-04-22
smttime: 1330
campsites: BC(01/04,4500m),C1(05/04,5400m),C2(07/04,5700m),Smt(23-24/04)
routememo:
  6 times made fixed ropes to sumit from C2. 100m fixed rope between C2 and top.
  From C2 = ice face and some places rock band; C1 to C2 = snow ridge and snow face.

  Was difficult climb.

  Asano not to top because toothache kept him in BC.

  S Face; did not go over to E Ridge as planned because of danger from snow avalanches; did not make a C3.
   
  From C2's 7 April established to summit on 23rd April: took 2 weeks making route, fixing rope and descending for rest periods.

  Kajimoto and Kurimoto fell last part of descent from summit but not hurt.

  Asano and Kamimoto arrived KTM 6 May; others arrived after 3-4 days and Kurimoto after 10 days at glacier.


  Inoue - 18 March 82

  Approach from Langshisa Kharka to south of mountain, up complicated structure on south side; final route maybe East Ridge from C3 at 6250m on ridge, or up snow face from snow plateau of 5800m (directly up face to summit) and in this case no C3.

  Leave KTM 21 March for Trisuli Bazar; 10 days caravan to BC at 4400m.
  Arrive BC by 1 April, summit about 1 May.
  2 Sherpas above BC.
  Oxygen medical only.
  "Route is very difficult but there is no other route."

  BC to C1 dangerous from falling seracs and stonefall. Most difficult part of route would be East Ridge part of climb because very steep; up snow face direct perhaps not so difficult but avalanche danger.


expid: OHMI82101
peakid: OHMI
year: 1982
route1: SE Ridge to E Smt
nation: Japan
leaders: Toshizo Kaneko
sponsor: Tokyo Metropolitan Government Alpine Club-Nepal Joint Exped.
ascent1: 1st-2nd of E Smt
bcdate: 1982-04-03
smtdate: 1982-04-03
campsites: BC(03/04,5050m),C1(11/04,5770m),C2(18/04,6100m),C3(27/04,6300m),E-Smt(29/04,01/05)
achievment: Claimed success on E Summit which Swiss say is nonexistent
routememo:
  Rieder - 16 May 85
  (Swiss Ohmi Kangri exped)

  Ohmi Kangri really has one summit; the point reached by Japanese Spr 1982 is just a point on SW Ridge. There are 2 points on SW Ridge: what Japanese called "East Peak" and "Central Peak," but the real summit is NW or "West peak."

  Ohmi Kangri is a large dome without difficulty. We followed SW Ridge over two teeth, the Japanese "East and Central Peaks" to highest point. The "east" and "central" peaks are no summits, only two difficulties on the ridge.

  Nawang Choklang was on Japanese Ohmi Kangri climb in 1982. They reached East and Central summits. All three summits appeared to be same altitude.


expid: PHUR82101
peakid: PHUR
year: 1982
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Ichiro Yasuda
sponsor: Osaka Worker's Alpine Federation 1982 Nepal-Japan Expedition
ascent1: 1st,2nd
bcdate: 1982-04-02
smtdate: 1982-05-01
smttime: 1345
campsites: BC(02/04,4170m),C1(07/04,4350m),C2(12/04,5200m),C3(22/04,5220m),Smt(01,03/05)
routememo:
  C2 to C3 very difficult snow ridge. Fixed rope needed all way to top. 70-degrees steep, very hard ice for 40m section. Frequent snow fall during route making. In section above C3 rock ridge, dangerous from falling rocks and spliting rock.

  Route was SW Ridge. This is only route saw to be possible - no avalanches this route.

  Miss Araki did not go to top because she was new climber and technical difficulties too much for her Yasuda decided. 

  No accidents, frostbite. All in KTM yesterday afternoon. 

  Doctor stayed at BC or C1 only.


  Yamada, et el - 23 March 82

  Kodari road to near Inkhu, then on foot up Baleghi Khola to BC at 4300m SW of Phurbi Chhyachu.
  Route=SW Ridge maybe
  4 or 6 camps above BC with highest 6200m
  3 Sherpas above BC = members (nominal)
  3 oxygen medical only
  Snow and rock mixed, very steep
  No other attempts on mountain before 
  Arrive BC after 7-9 days march, summit 1 month after BC.


expid: LEON82101
peakid: LEON
year: 1982
route1: E Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Koji Kato
sponsor: Nepal-Tokai University Himalayan Expedition 1982
ascent1: 3rd,4th
bcdate: 1982-03-30
smtdate: 1982-05-03
campsites: BC(30/03,4200m),C1(05/04,4700m),C2(12/04,5370m),C3(21/04,6100m),C4(25/04,6700m),Smt(03,07/05)
routememo:
  Route E Ridge = same route as 1962 expedition. Route is easy but very long and BC and C3 all glacier. C3 delayed by daily snowfall in afternoon of 30-50 cm/day. 

  Several members sick so others had to carry loads for them as well.


expid: NEMJ82101
peakid: NEMJ
year: 1982
route1: NE Ridge from SE
nation: Japan
leaders: Makoto Akashi
sponsor: Nepal Hirosaki University Joint Expedition 1982 - Himlung Himal
bcdate: 1982-04-05
smtdate: 1982-05-16
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to wind and snow, broken tents
campsites: BC(05/04,4000m),C1(15/04,4500m),C2(25/04,5900m),C3(04/05,6300m),C4(13/05,6500m),xxx(16/05,6800m)
accidents: No big accident but snow damage by snow avalanche in couloir below C2; no serious frostbite
routememo:
  Expeditions to Himlung prior to 1992 were probably climbing Nemjung.

  BC to C1 10 days because carried all loads to C1 and made it advanced base. C1 to C2 very difficult, steep, snow avalanches, difficult couloir, another 10 days; between C1 and C2 had deposit place 5500m.
   
  C2 to C3 weather bad: much snow, many crevassses, long way: about 3 km distance, maybe 4 km. C4 on col at 6500m, only 200m higher; bad weather, again much snow.
   
  Highest point 6700-6800m on 18th May. Again snow and strong wind. C4 tents broken, can't stay in tent and made snowhole where 3 men stayed 2 nights (Kudo, Hori and sirdar Ang Kami Tshering). Tents broken also at C3 and C2. So when went down from C4 snowhole not able to see tents, must dig them out there 3 had gone to highest point on 16th May. 18th May high party went down and climb finished.

  This route is possible from C3; above no dangers; above C4 2 or 3 difficult places but not so steep; no need for a C5.

  8 climbing Japanese + 3 Sherpas (nominal members)


  Letter to Elizabeth Hawley from Jimmy Roberts - May 31, 1982

  The Japanese have just returned from their unsuccessful assault on Himlung, which they tried to climb via the NE Ridge, but never really got onto the ridge because of all the snow that fell and kept covering their route, and the winds and snow that broke tents and caused a bit of havoc.

  BC - 4000m -  5 April
  C1 - 4500m - 15 April (this became base when all loads were ferried to this camp)
  C2 - 5900m - 25 April
  C3 - 6300m -  4 May
  C4 - 6500m - 13 May (on Col)
  High point - 6700-6800m - 6 May

  C1 to C2: very difficult: steep, snow avalanches, difficult couloir. 
            Between these camps, expedition had a deposit place at 5500m.

  C2 to C3: many crevasses, long way (3-4 km), much snow fell and covered route.

  C3 to C4: vertical distance only 200m: again much snow.

  After high point reached on 16 May, expedition gave up because snow and wind broke tents at C4 (so they dug a snowhole and stayed in it two nights) and also at C3 and C2.
       
  Eight-member team of Japanese plus three Sherpa members had no serious accident or frostbite. The route is possible, they believe, with no additional camps above C4 if only there wasn't so much snow. No dangers above C3, not difficult above C4 except for a couple of spots and not very steep.

  Cheo - they could see both north and south side of this nearby peak and think its easy from the north, very steep on the southern side.


expid: DORJ82101
peakid: DORJ
year: 1982
route1: W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kazunori Tanaka
sponsor: Nepal & Toyota Alpine Club Expedition 1982 to Dorje Lhakpa
ascent1: 2nd,3rd
bcdate: 1982-03-21
smtdate: 1982-04-26
smttime: 1400
campsites: TempBC(21/03,4200m),C1(29/03,5400m),BC(02/04,4600m),C2(15/04,6000m),C3(20/04,6400m),Smt(26,29/04)
routememo:
  C1 on W Ridge. Intended to go across W Ridge from N to S Ridge and up S Ridge to top, but S Ridge very difficult and so abandoned that idea. 

  Put C2 also on W Ridge, hence 2-1/2 weeks between C1 and C2. C3 also on W Ridge.

  1st BC = Langshisa Ri and S of point 6145m on Japanese Dorje Lhakpa 1981 expedition map.

  S Ridge: Many crevasses to reach it, to get onto it. No accidents, serious frostbite. Did not climb any other mountain.


expid: BHRI82101
peakid: BHRI
year: 1982
route1: W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kaoru Kikuchi
sponsor: Nepal-HAJ Joint Expedition to Mt. Bhrikuti 1982
ascent1: 1st-3rd
countries: Nepal
bcdate: 1982-05-10
smtdate: 1982-05-18
othersmts: Possibly climbed Khamjung
campsites: BC(10/05,4450m),C1(15/05,5550m),C2(17/05,6030m),Smt(18-19,21/05)
accidents: No accidents or frostbite
routememo:
  Ascent of Bhrikuti in spring of 1982 by the Japanese is disputed by Rudolf Weber of the Austrian expedition that attempted the peak in autumn of 1982.

  The Austrians claim that the Japanese climbed a lesser subsidiary peak.


  Tashi Jangbu & Kikuchi - 14 June 82

  Round Annapurna map completely wrong. Rivers and glaciers approached via Jomsom NE to Tangbe, Chhusang, Tangge (all NE from Jomsom); ESE via Dhechyang Khola to BC in a branch of this khola at 4450m at Damodar Kunda on 10th May. BC of mtn. at end of moraine; C1 5550m, 15th May, just below 400m icefall; C2 6030m, 17th May, above icefall in cwm. Above C2 is icewall to a col WNW of summit and thence route up W Ridge to shoulder and main peak which may be c6500m.

  Summiters on 18, 19 and 21 May as per Ministry report except Tsuchiya went again to top on 21st May. Times correct of C2-top-BC.

  Total 8 Japanese and 2 Nepalese members to summit.

  Not difficult climb but long approach to Bhrikuti which understand is last one in group of many peaks of about 6500m.

  This expedition's route easier on mountain, in fact perhaps only route.


expid: KGUR82101
peakid: KGUR
year: 1982
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Haruo Kambe
sponsor: Japan Workers Alpine Federation Gunma Tomioka Himalayan Mt. Exp
ascent1: 5th,6th
bcdate: 1982-04-02
smtdate: 1982-05-02
campsites: BC(02/04,3600m),C1(06/04,5250m),C2(16/04,6000m),C3(01/05,6500m),Smt(02-03/05)
accidents: No frostbite
routememo:
  BC at Meta.
  ABC to C1 very steep and difficult.
  C2 to C3 very steep, all fixed with rope: 1000m rope between these 2 camps was blue ice. C3 6500m 1 May.

  Dr. Kubo stayed BC only 1 week and then back to Japan. Concerned with expedition tactics and not in position for summit.

  ABC hit by avalanche but no real damage.
  Much snow from 500m down but above not.
  Route W Ridge (think this route a variation on German route between C1 and C2).


expid: ANN382101
peakid: ANN3
year: 1982
route1: N Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Tsukasa Nakase
sponsor: Aichi Nepal-Himalayan Expedition 1982
bcdate: 1982-03-29
smtdate: 1982-04-24
termdate: 1982-04-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to accident
campsites:
  BC(29/03,3808m),C1(01/04,4700m),C2(05/04,5000m),C3(12/04,5750m),C4(19/04,6300m),C5(22/04,6800m),xxx(24/04,6900m)

routememo:
  Okabe killed 24 April by seracs at first which brought new snow with them. He was just reaching C5 at nearly 6800m when hit at 1:30 pm with 2 Sherpas [Dawa and Ang Rinzin]. Sherpas ran away: Okabe also ran but not far enough. Sherpas fell 60m but OK. Okabe fell 100m into crevasse and snow and ice in top filling crevasse and making it impossible to recover body.

  C5 = final camp; summit planned for 25 April and Okabe to go summit. 2 other members [Maeda and Ozawa] were 100m above C5 making route and were also struck by avalanche; fell 150m and 80m with avalanche: were stopped by fixed rope and OK; were hit by little snow and blast of avalanche wind.

  25th April 2 members [Ozawa and Okabe] and Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa were to go to summit.

  After accident search for Okabe. 2 members [Maeda and Ozawa] injured and nervous and C5 entirely lost in avalanche so gave up climb.

  C5 to top only one route and above this all seracs, so must climb under this danger.

  Route probably same as 1961 except seracs and glacier much changed so really not same. Were in same area of N Face as Indians; would suggest same route to future climbers, but put C5 150m higher (anyway altimeter probably wrong and C2-C5 probably 300m higher).


expid: LAMJ82102
peakid: LAMJ
year: 1982
route1: N Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kazuki Yoshino
sponsor: Japan Workers Alpine Federation Fukuoka Mt. Lamjung Himal
ascent1: 10th
bcdate: 1982-04-11
smtdate: 1982-05-06
smttime: 1120
campsites: BC(11/04,3850m),C1(14/04,4600m),C2(21/04,5350m),C3(28/04,5950m),C4(05/05,6400m),Smt(06/05)
accidents: No accidents or frostbite
routememo:
  2 Sherpas went to top on 6th May 1 hr before Japanese because one Japanese not in good condition and climbing slowly. Sherpas waited for Japanese at summit, met Korean party who arrived later, because after going down little from top, Japanese had white-out and returned to summit to wait for good weather.

  5 left top at 13:00 hrs and reached C4 16:00 hrs; had to negotiate many crevasses. C3 and C4 very difficult. Alternating snow ridge and blue ice traverses, ridge soft snow and ice. 650m fixed rope this section; C2 and C3 = 300m fixed rope. 

  Route = N Ridge. After summit, 2 ladies rested in C2 for 2 days, very tired.


expid: NILN82101
peakid: NILN
year: 1982
route1: SE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Kenji Sugishita
sponsor: Ishikawa Prefecture Worker's Alpine Federation Nilgiri North
ascent1: 3rd
bcdate: 1982-04-08
smtdate: 1982-05-04
smttime: 1500
campsites: BC(08/04,4250m),C1(11/04,4850m),C2(17/04,5500m),C3(22/04,5900m),C4(6500m),Smt(04/05)
accidents: No accidents or frostbite
routememo:
  3 arrived 20th May, 4 others arrived 22 May
  Route = SE Face = 1979 Japanese which 1979 team did not complete
  Very difficult, very steep blue ice. 
  C3 to C4 10 days.

  Reached top between 15:00-16:00 (Iwa-to-Yuki).


expid: EVER82101
peakid: EVER
year: 1982
route1: SW Face rib-W Ridge
nation: USSR
leaders: Evgeny Tamm
sponsor: First Soviet Mountaineering Expedition to Sagarmatha
ascent1: 44th-48th
bcdate: 1982-03-26
smtdate: 1982-05-04
smttime: 1435
termdate: 1982-05-15
campsites:
  BC(26/03,5300m),C1(22/03,6500m),C2(01/04,7350m),C3(10/04,7850m),C4(20/04,8250m),C5(03/05,8500m),Smt(04-05,08-09/05)

routememo:
  In Ktm to finalize arrangements re imports, approach march, etc.

  Had planned to attempt Everest [from Tibet] but no real expedition because of events in Tibet at that time. An advance group of 3 were there on recce to Rongbuk Glacier with Chinese. 

  Philmonov: 1952 Datchnolian Everest expedition did not exist; never heard of this name; please help us with this disinformation. This 1982 Everest expedition is first Soviet expedition to Everest and to Himalayas.

  Plan to establish BC 20th March in open part of Khumbu Glacier in usual place at foot of icefall.

  26 members, 16 to walk on route never before used; little to left of Bonington route: SW Face to W Ridge at 8500m and thence to summit. Ridge is broader and will climb a little to right of ridge itself. 5 camps above BC. C5 at 8400-8500m just before ridge. 3 summit teams of 4 members each. Hope all 12 will reach summit; have had in part of 2 years in Soviet Union up to 7500m.

  Use oxygen: all camps will have supply; use at each stage will be decided at the time. So far Soviet climbers have never used oxygen.

  Sherpas: 9 high altitude Sherpas including Pemba Norbu as sirdar. No women member climbers; this is 1st Soviet expedition so decided to avoid.
   
  Highest sumit ever reached by Soviet climbers in 1957 in prep for 1958 Everest 7800m Kongur in Chinese with oxygen.

  75-80% equipment will be Soviet and rest usual European equipment. Oxygen equipment will be Soviet especially developed for this expedition.

  Chosen route: think it one of most difficult routes on everest. Route is logical and shortest and most convienient to W Ridge. Most dangerous part is beginning of face, not in couloir where rock falls came.

  Chose Everest as 1st Himalayan expedition because it is Everest; said not come to Everest in 1980 because too inconvenient in Moscow Olympics year.

  We have no other equipment besides what shown in customs declaration.

  Tamm expects to go no higher than 6500m camp at foot of face. Tamm arrived KTM 27-28 Feb and last of his team's members came 10th March.


  Soviet Everest

  Total 27 Soviets on team including BC-only people.

  5 went with baggage via Kirantichap 7th March. 7 flew to Lukla 8th March - 15 including Tamm flew to Lukla. Nearly 12 tons baggage.

  Permission for Soviet aircraft to come to KTM with the baggage was refused by HMG; doesn't know reason.

  Last of members arrive KTM 10th Mar and leave Lukla 13th March. Main group 
  BC 20th complete nearly 5 weeks climbing route. SW Face still, no change ,
  15 Sherpas above BC and 4 BC staff.


  Some facts on Soviet Sagarmatha Expedition - 1982

  1) Dr. Evgeny Tamm, Head of the Expedition
  2) Dr. Anatoly Ovchinnikov, Chief Coach

  First Persons to Reach the summit

  Eduard Myslovsky, 44, a lecturer at the Maching Building Institute in Moscow, and Vladimir Balyberdin, 32, an engineer from Leningrad, reached the top on May 4, 1982.

  On April 26, these mountaineers left the base camp to set the new route. It took them four days to reach the fourth camp and three days to the fifth camp. They stretched ten ropes each 45 metres long. They worked even during night fall, quite often late in the night to prepare the way to the summit for themselves and other groups of mountain climbers.

  Scaling at Night

  On the night of May 4, 1982 two more climbers Sergei Bershov, 35, house painter and student of an evening institute, and Mikhail Turkevich, 28, senior instructor of the mountaineering club "Donbass," scaled the Mt. Sagarmatha.

  Third Successful Attempt

  On 5th May afternoon Valentin Ivanov, 41, department chief of the designing bureau, High temperature Institute, and Sergei Efimov reached the summit.

  Fourth Ascent

  On May 8, 1982, V. S. Khrischaty, 31, engineer-geologist, and Kazbek Valiev, 30, senior engineer, ascended the peak.

  Fifth and Final Successful Attempt

  On May 9th 1982 Valery Khomutov, 40, research worker, Yuri Golodov, senior researcher, and Vladimir Puchkov reached the Sagarmatha summit.

  Steepness

  The Soviet mountaineers scaled Sagarmatha on the route with steepness from 40 to 60 degrees. It was difficult to find the place to drive a hook into a jut of vertical rock.

  Rugged South-Western Slope and Hillary's comment

  The Soviet mountaineers set a new route for the summit over the rugged south-western slope that was regarded actually insurmountable until now. At a meeting with Soviet climbers in KTM before their departure to the base camp Edmund Hillary, one of the first two men to scale Sagarmatha, said that the opening of this new route will be a new step in high altitude alpine climbing.

  Some other facts

  The distance from the first intermediate camp (6500m above sea level) to the last and fifth one from where the groups assaulted the summit, is 2700 meters. The average age of the ascenders is 35, Mikhail Turkevich, 28 being the youngest.

  The clothes of the Soviet team were made especially for climbing Mt. Sagarmatha. The members wore down suits and anoraks and kapron trousers over them. Such material is wind-resistant, but at the same time, it allows perspiration to evaporate. They also wore silk or woollen gloves, double shoes and wool-lined boots.


expid: MANA96102
peakid: MANA
year: 1996
route1: NE Face
nation: China
leaders: Samdrup
sponsor: China-Tibet Expedition to 14 Mountains of 8000m
ascent1: 47th,48th
bcdate: 1996-04-07
smtdate: 1996-05-03
smttime: 1250
termdate: 1996-05-08
campsites: BC(07/04,4050m),C1(11/04,4860m),C2(20/04,6000m),C3(02/05,6730m),Smt(03-04/05)
accidents: Tsering Dorje 1 toe frostbitten slightly
achievment: 1st Tibetan and Chinese attempt
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  After C2 made, lot of snowfall and wind so team rested at BC. Rope fixed between ABC to C1 30m, C1 to C2 45m, C2 to C3 30m, and C3 to near top 30m. On 3rd May summiters left C3 at 2:15 am, were on top at 12:50 pm, returned to C2 at 9:50 pm. On 4th May summit party left C3 at 3:15 am, on top at 10:05 am and down to C2 at 5:05 pm.


expid: MANA96101
peakid: MANA
year: 1996
route1: NE Face
nation: Mexico
leaders: Carlos Carsolio
sponsor: Mexican International Expedition to Manaslu
ascent1: 49th
countries: Finland, USA
bcdate: 1996-03-30
smtdate: 1996-05-12
smttime: 1800
termdate: 1996-05-19
campsites: BC(30/03,4050m),C1(07/04,5700m),C3(10/05,7100m),Biv(12/05,7900m),Smt(12/05)
accidents: Nothing serious
achievment: Consolio's 14th 8000er; brothers 1st summiters from western hemisphere
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site of recent years
  C3 at NE Face in damaged tent left by Tibetans.

  1st summit attempt from 29th April C1 in a continuous push by Alfredo and Carlos & reached 7950m at 4:00 pm. Because late in the day and storm coming, rested in biv (in scooped out snow) for 3-4 hours. Started down again in daylight and returned to BC that day, 30th April. Rested and then started up from BC on 8th May and stayed 1 day because weather "not looking good." Left C1 8:30 pm 9th May in another continuous push: arrived 7100m, rested there at 12:00 noon of 10th and big storm came including static fall from electricity in air. Had snowfall, wind and went out for attempt to go on up at 9:00 pm but stayed outside tent for only 20 mins and quickly retreated inside tent. 11th stayed at 7100m. 11th 8:30 pm again started up in stormy weather, "very difficult to orientate and very deep snow so we were very slow." Could not find a couloir & climbed rocky area and finally reached plateau at 8:00-9:00 am 12th May. Now no more snowfall, only very strong wind, so at least we could see" - "took us whole day to get to top because we had to fight with the wind." Reached top 6:00 pm. Last part is very tricky and difficult but surmounted this and arrived at very top, where found Tibetan prayer flags tied to their 60m-fixed rope. Spent 30 mins on top, then started down at 6:30 pm down tricky ridge to plateau and then dark in very dark night and very windy biv at 7900m with no tent or sack, but had good acclimatization from 1st summit bid. When daylight came, started down (still windy) and clear day able to get down during whole day to 7100m camp where slept finally (no sleep since 8:30 pm of 11th): "then we were "safe." Arrived BC on 15th descending slowly through day of 14th and its night through winds constantly and snowfall 14th afternoon and very foggy.

  "Very happy, satisfied" to have done 14 8000ers. Many Himalayan faces to be done in future. On K2 reached less than 20 from very highest point: "it was just there" on almost flat summit but very strong wind.

  [Viesturs, Gustafsson and Darsney planned to join this expedition after Everest, but never came due to the disaster on Everest.]


expid: MANA96104
peakid: MANA
year: 1996
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Chantal Mauduit
sponsor: Frenchwoman on Manaslu
ascent1: 50th
bcdate: 1996-05-18
smtdate: 1996-05-24
smttime: 1200
termdate: 1996-05-26
campsites: BC(18/05,6000m),Biv(20/05,6100m),C1(21/05,6100m),C2(22/05,6500m),C3(23/05,7200m),Smt(24/05)
accidents: Nothing
achievment: 1st French woman on top Manaslu
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Biv at saddle (slightly below normal site for C1)
  C1  at normal C1 site
  C3 (Tibetans said 6730m).

  No fixed camps. Climbed with Ang Tshering (39 yrs, from Thami), followed by Samagaon people as high as C2 digging for tents and taking down fixed ropes, etc. Started up on 20th May and camped in a saddle 4000m, sligtly below normal site. 21st went to C1 site, 100m higher, carrying heavy loads and making trail above. 22nd to 6500m. 23rd to Tibetans C3 where was a broken tent at 7200m in serac in middle of (NE Face). 24th at 4:00-4:30 am started for summit in deep snow but no wind and nice day below plateau. Ang Tshering stopped 1-1/2 hours below summit because he was tired (this was where route steepens to top). Mauduit also tired but kept on to top at about 12:00 where found prayers flags and just below them where snow stakes with rope fixed to them. No wind and clear day and took video showing Samagaon. Then down to where Ang Tshering was waiting and together to Tibetan C3 and slept there very tired. 25th to BC. Much of climb up and down with Mauduit and Ang Tshering roped together ("he's a very safe guy").

  Ang Tshering told Ang Rita of Himalayan Trust on 4th June that he really was too tired to go to summit after having broken the trail to his high point.


expid: DHA196101
peakid: DHA1
year: 1996
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Andre Georges
sponsor: Swiss Dhaulagiri-Annapurna Expedition
ascent1: 87th
bcdate: 1996-04-05
smtdate: 1996-05-05
smttime: 1205
termdate: 1996-05-07
othersmts: Climbed Annapurna I (ANN1-961-03)
campsites: BC(05/04,4650m),Smt(05/05)
accidents: None
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  Georges was first to arrive at BC (Koreans 1 day later) and spent one month at Dhaulagiri. No camps above BC. Tried for top twice and twice snowfall; then made depot but on third bid depot was gone; borrowed things from Koreans team and on 4th May in evening (500pm) started up from BC & reached top 12:05 on 5th; Koreans coming down and others in BC. Koreans left tent at 7100m but but not used by Georges; rested an hour at 5:00 am but otherwise kept moving up - reached BC at 6:00 pm after skiing from 6600m up to BC. 4500m BC to top in 20 hrs; from 6600m up ridge aleady fixed with old ropes to 7200m; in descent traversed 200-300m below ridge, a faster line than ridge. Necessary to climb this mountain carefully most of route (Annapurna not so difficult as Dhaulagiri).


expid: ANN196103
peakid: ANN1
year: 1996
route1: N Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Andre Georges
sponsor: Swiss Dhaulagiri-Annapurna Expedition
ascent1: 34th
bcdate: 1996-05-12
smtdate: 1996-05-15
smttime: 1000
termdate: 1996-05-17
othersmts: Climbed Dhaulagiri I (DHA1-961-01)
campsites: BC(12/05,4400m),C1(14/05,5800m),Smt(15/05)
accidents: None
achievment: Fastest ascent of Annapurna?
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
primid: DHA196101
routememo:
  Too much ice to climb West Face. Went up N Face via route of Koreans this spring, essentially German's 1980 route for middle summit. 14th May Georges and sirdar climbed from BC to normal C2 site at 5800m in 5 hours; pitched tent at 1:00 pm, stayed 4 hrs, then Georges went up alone (no one else on mountain and sirdar stayed in tent). 17 hours to ascend 2300m to top and 7 hours down to tent. Walked all night in deep snow; same places Koreans rope broken. Well acclimatized from Dhaulagiri. Descended in cloud and lost his way sometimes. Snowed 15th afternoon and everyday afterwards. Returned to C1 at 6:00 pm of 15th and BC 8:00 am 16th.

  In June 1996 to Makalu; "maybe" trying for all 8000ers.


expid: DHA196103
peakid: DHA1
year: 1996
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Romania
leaders: Constantin Lacatusu
sponsor: Romanian Dhaulagiri I Expedition
approach: Via Marpha (where porters dumped loads)
bcdate: 1996-04-16
smtdate: 1996-05-24
termdate: 1996-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 7850m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(16/04,4700m),C1(30/04,5700m),C2(05/05,6600m),C3(07/05,7300m),C4(08/05,7600m),xxx(24/05,7850m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Himalayan Waves
routememo:
  C1 at Col
  C2 on snow ridge (near rock ridge which is steep)
  C3 on rock ridge
  High point on snow face to right of NE Ridge.

  8th May pitched C4 and down to BC on 9th to rest; then came 2nd period of bad weather with heavy snowfall. 15th May 3 members up from BC to C1 (all tents buried); 16th May to C2 "swimming in the snow" and stayed here 2 nights after digging out tents on arrival and during 17th; 18th May down to BC 28th. 21st May weather improved and first day of clear weather so 3 different members and Chuldin (Sherpa) to C1; 2 tents buried and lost 1 tent. 22nd to C2 where couldn't use one of 3 tents. Weather good but snow very deep but to C3 site and found nothing; higher to C4 and again camp destroyed and found only a sheet could be used by 2 members and 1 Sherpa only (1 member turned back). All supplies in camp gone but still went on up with very little gear at 6:00 am of 24th; reached 7800m, where Chuldin went back at 8:00 am while in one more hour reached 7850m big snow face to right of ridge and snow deep and Bogdan getting weak from lack of fluids so gave up; down to BC same day and climb finished.


expid: DORJ96101
peakid: DORJ
year: 1996
route1: W Ridge from N
nation: Japan
leaders: Yuji Ishikawa
sponsor: Hokkaigakuen University Mountaineering Club Dorje Lhakpa Exp
ascent1: 10th
bcdate: 1996-03-02
smtdate: 1996-03-15
termdate: 1996-03-17
campsites: BC(02/03,4800m),C1(05/03,5450m),C2(12/03,6000m),Smt(15/03)
accidents: None
agency: Above the Clouds
routememo:
  BC  near "g" of Langshisa (Tsang) 
  ABC at Langshisa Col -(small col just end of point 5).

  Made temporary C2 at 5700m because were fixing rope - were technical difficulties above C2: steep snow and ice with same as sections of blue ice. Fixed 900m from C2 to 6300m. 3 members to top only because of difficulty of route left no more time for others to try: 15th March was last date possible. Sherpas only to C2 because afraid of blue ice above.


expid: DHA196104
peakid: DHA1
year: 1996
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Michal Brunner
sponsor: Czech Dhaulagiri Expedition
countries: Italy
bcdate: 1996-05-03
smtdate: 1996-05-16
termdate: 1996-05-17
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to bad snow conditions
othersmts: Climbed Pumori (PUMO-961-01)
campsites: BC(03/05,4700m),C1(05/05,5600-5700m),C2(08/05,6600m),xxx(16/05,7000m)
accidents: Mondinelli left expedition 4th May with stomach trouble
agency: Star Trek
routememo:
  C1 at Col
  C2 on a snow ridge.

  On 16th May Moro and Paglino left C2 at 1:00+am for push to summit; reached 7000m at about 3:00 am and were too cold (especially Moro's feet); snow very deep making progress very slow; there was danger of avalanching; they turned back here, had trouble finding C2, continued on down and arrived at BC at 10:30 am same day. 

  Expedition climbed in 2 parties with Czechs moving up after Italians. On 16th 4 Czechs except Lukas Rakoncaj left BC for C1, reached C1 and met Italians who were coming down and who reported on conditions above (snow conditions bad). Czechs followed Italians down to BC same day and climbing finished. Czechs had earlier reached C2 when they established it with Italians on 8th May.


expid: ANN196101
peakid: ANN1
year: 1996
route1: S Face (from 6800m to right of Bonington rte)
nation: Russia
leaders: Sergei Efimov
sponsor: Sverdlovsk Annapurna Expedition
bcdate: 1996-04-09
smtdate: 1996-05-11
termdate: 1996-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to bad weather including heavy snowfall
campsites: BC(09/04,4200m),C1(11/04,5100m),C2(17/04,6100m),C3(20/04,6400m),C4(10/05,6900m),xxx(11/05,7100m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site in Annapurna Sanctuary
  C1 on glacier at bottom of South Face
  C2 same as Bonington route on ridge
  C3 same as Bonington route on ridge
  C4 to right of Bonington route.

  30th April reached 6800m and left gear there at top of this ridge and returned to C3 because deep snow and climbers tired; all down to BC. 7th May up again. 10th May reached 6900m and biv there. 11th May to 7100m fixing rope, but snowfall began and avalanche hit tent, so down to C3. More snowfall and avalanching so again all down to BC. 17th May up to C3 but tent buried by snow, spent night in it, 20th May weather worse and east wind started and sky grey, so decided to go down and climbing finished.

  They were: Bolotov, Ermatchek, Khabibulin and Timofeev.

  Route went to right of Bonington route at 6800m; intention was to climb a ridge directly to summit.

  All climbers except Sedousov reached C2; he reached C1, climb too difficult technically for him so he left expedition; from 6400m to 6700m quite difficult, but rest not very difficult technically, but difficult to move because everyday snow and everyday had to make steps.


expid: ANN196102
peakid: ANN1
year: 1996
route1: N Face (E of Dutch Rib)
nation: S Korea
leaders: Sung Soon-Je
sponsor: Korean Dhaulagiri and Annapurna Expedition
ascent1: 33rd
bcdate: 1996-04-12
smtdate: 1996-05-03
smttime: 1310
termdate: 1996-05-05
othersmts: Climbed Dhaulagiri I (DHA1-961-02)
campsites: BC(12/04,4300m),ABC(14/04,4900m),C1(17/04,5400m),C2(23/04,6700m),C3(02/05,7300m),Smt(03/05)
accidents: 2 members slipped with small avalanche in descent from top but not hurt
agency: Windhorse Trekking
primid: DHA196102
routememo:
  C1 on North Face on German 1980 route
  C3 on North Face.

  4 Sherpas went to Annapurna while Dhaulagiri climb on. Made route up to Dutch Rib, but avalanche took out rope they had fixed twice so route changed. Park and Kim 28th April arrive BC, on to ABC 30th, to C2 1 May, C3 made on 2nd May, on 3 May went for summit leaving C3 at 2:00 am (Park, Kim, Kazi and Gyalzen Sherpa), arrived top 1:10 pm; long time because new snow and some crevasses lower part of final climb; returned to C1 at 9:00 pm. BC on 4th May. 

  Suddenly 5th May helicopter arrived BC, Park got in to fly to Annapurna BC, informed Um climb finished and back to Annapurna BC to collect people and gear and on to Pokhara. Sirdar was at ABC at that time so he coming to Kathmandu (via Jomsom perhaps). Face very dangerous from avalanching.

  Sherpas:
    Kazi (sirdar), 32, Solu, Everest 1993 with Park 1995 and other time
    Gyalzen, 35, Solu, this is his 1st 8000er

  Route was basically same as German's 1980 route (for central summit) to 7300m+, then traversed to normal route to summit.


expid: DHA196102
peakid: DHA1
year: 1996
route1: NE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Sung Soon-Je
sponsor: Korea Dhaulagiri and Annapurna Expedition
ascent1: 86th
bcdate: 1996-04-06
smtdate: 1996-05-01
smttime: 1300
termdate: 1996-05-05
othersmts: Climbed Annapurna I (ANN1-961-02)
campsites: BC(06/04,4700m),C2(12/04,5900m),C3(20/04,7300m),C4(30/04,7700m),Smt(01/05)
accidents: Nothing serious; slight frostbite Hong unwell
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 above North Col (normal C2 site)
  C2 on NE Ridge (normal C3)
  C3 on NE Ridge (normal C4)
  C4 on NE Ridge (normal C5).

  1st attempt for summit 22 April by 4 climbing members and reached 7700m but too much new snow. Snowfall everyday in April; much cloud and windy: "weather no good" in April. Down to BC. 28th April helicopter took Park & Kim from Dhaulagiri BC to Annapurna BC because might have to wait long time for summit Dhaulagiri, so 2 members would join Sherpas already on route while Um and Hong left BC for C1; 30th C1 to C4. 30th April Um and Ngati reached and made C4 while Hong not in good condition & turned back at 6500m to BC. Um and Ngati left C4 3 am, on summit at 1:00 pm in very good weather, but some clouds and strong wind occasionally; down to C1 at 9:30 pm to sleep. 2nd May to BC and packing gear. Called for helicopter to take to Annapurna but not coming until 5 May and came from Annapurna BC first with Park on board and said Annapurna climb finished and BC packed up.

  Ngati (28, from Khumjung) did Everest traverse with Heo.


expid: MANA96103
peakid: MANA
year: 1996
route1: NE Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Ernst Schwarzenlander
sponsor: DAV Summit Club Manaslu Expedition
countries: Austria, Switzerland
bcdate: 1996-04-27
smtdate: 1996-05-10
termdate: 1996-05-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to deep snow and wind
campsites: BC(27/04,4000m),C1(30/04,5500m),C2(05/05,6300m),xxx(10/05,6700m)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  C1 at 100m above Naike Col
  C2 on NE Face
  High point on NE Face.

  10th May Scwarzenlander and Respondek tried for summit from C2 without a higher camp but reached only 6700m when deep snow and high wind drove them down to BC same day. 

  2 attempts to get to a site for C3 at 6800m or 6900m but could not get over 6400m because of very deep snow and wind. Every night for 2 weeks 25cm new snow fell.


expid: CHOY96103
peakid: CHOY
year: 1996
route1: W side 'W Corner'
nation: USA
leaders: Eric Simonson
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) 1996 Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 203,204
countries: Canada
bcdate: 1996-04-13
smtdate: 1996-05-13
termdate: 1996-05-16
campsites: BC(13/04),ABC(17/04,5240m),C1(23/04,6280m),C2(02/05,7100m),C3(11/05,7400m),Smt(13-14/05)
accidents: Nothing serious
achievment: Ellis 1st black to any 8000m on top?
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  ABC lower than normal site because yaks couldn't reach it 
  C1 at normal site.

  1st summit party went to top from C3 and slept in C2 that night. 2nd party from C2 to top and down to C2 same day; both really strong and fast.

  Everything went very smoothly on the mountain amongst the many expeditions but it was in base camp that problems arose with expeditions with no transport of their own or oxygen and they wanted these from Simonson's team, the only one which had its own vehicle at BC.

  Ellis says he very conscious of being representatives of blacks and making probably the first ascent of any 8000er by black - is active in Afro-American affairs.

  Summit Sherpa: Dawa Nuru from Phortse for whom this his 3rd ascent of Cho Oyu.

  Johnson, Simonson, Rayner and Matheson were essentially just trekkers who left exedition on 24th April as planned, but Matheson reached C1 and Simonson only BC.


expid: CHOY96106
peakid: CHOY
year: 1996
route1: W side from N
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Mark Whetu
sponsor: Mountain Works Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 206
countries: Netherlands
bcdate: 1996-04-15
smtdate: 1996-05-16
smttime: 1030
campsites: BC(15/04,4800m),ABC(13/04,5300m),C1(25/04,6000m),C2(01/05,6800m),C3(15/05,7100m),Smt(16/05)
accidents: Morgan altitude sickness and used oxygen from ABC to BC
achievment: 1st Dutch woman a top any 8000er
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at lower than normal site
  C1 at bottom of scree slope, below normal C1
  C3 shared C with Simonson's team.

  Saved life of Latvian doctor and spent lots of effort pumping Gamov bags for other European lightweight expeditions with proper BC. BC 2 hours walk below normal BC site because vehicles couldn't reach it. Same problem with ABC which yaks couldn't reach. Russell Brice summited from C1 in 11 hrs and 2 hrs back to C1 while others to top went from C3 and back to C3. Brice was 2nd on top with Peter Reynal-O'Connor - 1 hr on top earlier.


  Brice - 26 May (by phone):

  Brice left their C1 at 12:30 am of 16th May on top at 11:30 am and down to C1 at 2:30 pm. 1st on top that day with Peter having waited 10 minutes for him - passed other 5 between 6:30 and 7:00 am on ascent; had carried loads to 6800m and 7400m, then a rest day before ascent. "Was on holiday" (not working as a guide with clients).


expid: CHOY96101
peakid: CHOY
year: 1996
route1: W side (normal rte)
nation: Japan
leaders: Shinji Sato
sponsor: Sapporo Cho Oyu Expedition 1996 Japan
ascent1: 200,201
bcdate: 1996-04-05
smtdate: 1996-05-08
campsites: BC(05/04),ABC(19/04,5700m),C1(24/04,6350m),C2(06/05,7100m),C3(07/05,7400m),Smt(08-09/05)
accidents: Nothing except sirdar Sange pleaded sick and left after C1 established
agency: Poon Hill
routememo:
  Spent long time in BC because lot of deep snow and yaks unable go to ABC at first.

  Sherpas: 
    Tshering Dorje 
    Ang Nima, Cho Oyu with Japan (KTM Club)
    Kunga, Rolwaling, Cho Oyu X2


expid: CHOY96102
peakid: CHOY
year: 1996
route1: W side from N
nation: Germany
leaders: Friedrich (Fritz) Zintl
sponsor: DAV Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 199
bcdate: 1996-04-11
smtdate: 1996-05-04
smttime: 1000
termdate: 1996-05-06
campsites: BC(11/04,4800m),ABC(14/04,5300m),C1(23/04,6400m),C2(29/04,6800m),C3(30/04,7200m),Smt(04/05)
accidents: Zintl's death; Kramer frostbitten fingers; Schulte middle ear infection which delayed summit bid
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  ABC at normal site
  C1 at normal site.

  Started for top from C3 at 5:30 am - to yellow band and traversed to large snowfield on right side of face, Wuttke reached snow pyramid summit in clouds and snowfall, down a little and then slowly up but bad weather meant no photos of Everest and feared to lose descent route so turned down and descended directly using old fixed ropes: reached 100-200m from highest pk; returned C3 18:30 on 1 May. Kramer turned back 50m behind Wuttke and weather quickly got bad; and feared he would lose it in snowfall; frostbitten fingers from early morning when had to take off over gloves to change clothes. 

  Schulte left C3 on 4 May at 2:00 am, reached the summit at 10:00 am in clear weather (but 100-km/hr wind) and saw Everest; back in C3 at 4:00 pm. Summitted with other German (Kraus) team.
   
  Team lost their leader when he died 20 April, but team had already discussed route of ABC and could see where others were climbing.

  No success (very near successes) possible if BC Sirdar had not agreed to help carry load which he did as high as C3.


expid: CHOY96113
peakid: CHOY
year: 1996
route1: W side from N
nation: Austria
leaders: Johann Ebner
sponsor: First Viennese Himalayan Expedition 1996 to Cho Oyu
ascent1: 209 w/Gatt
bcdate: 1996-05-13
smtdate: 1996-05-27
termdate: 1996-06-02
campsites: BC(13/05),ABC(15/05,5700m),C1(18/05,6200m),C2(25/05,6800m),C4(26/05,7500m),Smt(27/05)
accidents: Knezicek bronchitis; one Sherpa mumps at BC
agency: Stupa View Trekkking
routememo:
  Gatts saved Leuprecht on 19th as he was exhausted and on 28th two Gatts brought Obermueller down to C1 and Maruna, Gruber and Frisch and some of Ebner's Sherpas and 2 of Gatt members and high porters carried Obermueller down to ABC same day and night, 12 km distance. 2 days rest for this team at ABC. 24th from ABC: 25th C2; leader split group and 26th Ebner, Mrs Ebner, Gruber and Huber to C4 while Frisch, Maruna and Schmidhofer spent day in C2. 27th Huber and Gruber to summit in little cold but slight wind while Ebner went down [with Gatt team]. 27th Frisch, Maruna and Schmidhofer up to C4 for summit bid but no sleeping bag in camp so had to stay without any; temperature -23 inside tent and 40 mph wind. 28th still tried for top but Sherpa said too cold to try; next to 7800m and 7950m with 2 Sherpas and down to C2 same day. Leaders splitting was a mistake based on ego. 28th night heavy snowstorm and winds flattened tents. 29th to C1 and snow daily thereafter.


expid: CHOY96105
peakid: CHOY
year: 1996
route1: W Face/Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Andreas Kraus
sponsor: Amical Alpin Cho Oyu Expedition 1996
ascent1: 199
bcdate: 1996-04-14
smtdate: 1996-05-04
smttime: 0910
agency: Thamserku Trekking
campsites:
  BC(14/04),ABC(16/04,5100m),ABC(18/04,5400m),C1(22/04,5800m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(03/05,7400m),Smt(04/05)

routememo:
  Yaks could go only to 5400m because too many days of snow to go further. Summit day beautiful day and full moon at night of 3rd. After full moon, weather changed on 4th with daily snowfall. Temperature was -43 degrees Centigrade on summit at 9:10 am.

  Sherpas: 
    Nawang Thile is Beding man who summited Cho Oyu on 1990 and 1995
    Ongchu is 32 years old, from Kharikhola, this his first 8000m summit

accidents:
  Schlegel heart problem at BC; Schubert and Kraus very slight frostbite in -43 degrees weather (turned back at 8000m)


expid: CHOY96109
peakid: CHOY
year: 1996
route1: W Ridge/W Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Horst Kaluza
sponsor: International Mountain Climbing (IMC) Cho Oyu Team
ascent1: 197
countries: Austria, Denmark, Mexico
bcdate: 1996-04-17
smtdate: 1996-05-03
smttime: 1330
termdate: 1996-05-10
campsites: BC(17/04),ABC(20/04,5400m),Smt(03/05)
accidents: Kaluza frostbitten toes (very bad on left foot)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Three Mexicans climbed together while European climbed individually. 

  Mexicans:  C1 6400m - 22 April 
             C2 7700m - 28 April 

  Summit from C2 at midnight of 2nd and on top 1:30 pm (Pena to 8050m only); he [Jorge] saw many peaks and Tibetan plateau, but not Everest because more direction clouds.

  Europeans: C2 6,00m - 21 April
             C2 7200m - 1 May
             C3 7700m - 3 May

  8100m and reached on 5 May by Kaluza alone. Then got frostbitten toes in very cold windy storm after 3 days in C3; Rasmussen to 7900m.

  Delorenzo from C2 to top alone direct on 6 May (Loretan party doubt this ascent as he said he could not remember whether it was rock or snow). Amical Germans also don't believe this claim since "he spent 5 days in C1 smoking cigarettes and not in shape to go directly to summit later"; "surely not to summit" they said 14 May 1996.

  Team used 1 Sherpa with Europeans to C3.


expid: CHOY96104
peakid: CHOY
year: 1996
route1: W side (direct from C2 to top)
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Bruno Hasler
sponsor: International Mountain Climbing (IMC) Swiss to Cho Oyu & Xixa
ascent1: 195 w/Swz,198
countries: Spain
bcdate: 1996-04-13
smtdate: 1996-05-02
smttime: 0700
termdate: 1996-05-10
othersmts: Climbed Xixabangma (except Schmid)
campsites: BC(13/04,4800m),ABC(17/04,5400m),C1(20/04,6400m),C2(26/04,7200m),Smt(02,04/05)
accidents: Schmid frostbitten fingers
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Schmid and Zinsli left C2 about 8:00 pm 1 May with Loretan's party and on top 7:00 am with Loretan men and down to C1 that day. 

  On 3 May from C2 at 9:30 pm and on summit on 4th at 8:30 am (climbed through the night of full moon in beautiful but very windy night) and down to C1.

  Team used 4 Tibetans to C1.


expid: CHOY96111
peakid: CHOY
year: 1996
route1: W side from N
nation: Italy
leaders: Almo Giambisi
sponsor: Fassana Expedition to Cho Oyu May 1996
ascent1: 203,205
bcdate: 1996-04-19
smtdate: 1996-05-10
termdate: 1996-05-21
campsites: BC(19/04,4800m),ABC(02/05,5400m),C1(04/05,6300m),C3(09/05,7500m),Smt(10,15/05)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Climb not difficult technicaly but cold and wind presented difficulties and 9 members did not acclimatize, so not fit enough to try for top. Too many climbers tried to go high when not in good enough condition.

  Sherpa:
    Kancha Nuru Sherpa says he was born in 1943 (has completed 33 years)
      from Khumjung and this his first 8000m summit.


expid: CHOY96110
peakid: CHOY
year: 1996
route1: W Face/Ridge
nation: Latvia
leaders: Juris Osis
sponsor: Latvian Alpine Association Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 196
countries: Austria
bcdate: 1996-04-17
smtdate: 1996-05-02
smttime: 1330
termdate: 1996-05-10
campsites: BC(17/04),ABC(20/04,5400m),B2(23/04,5800m),C1(24/04,6400m),C2(01/05,7200m),Smt(02/05)
accidents: Ventins alltitude sickness
achievment: 1st Latvians to summit
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  ABC at normal site
  C1  at normal site.

  May 2 five men left C2 for summit; left C2 at 2:30 am and on top at 1:30 pm after 1-1/2 hours from 1st "peak."

  Sakars made C2 but on 2 May down after 2 hours because of problem with food and down to C1; on 5 May tried for top and with Kaluza members and reached 8100m, then stopped since alone and not sure could return safely to C2 if went to summit.

  Sherpas:  
    Jangbu, about 30, from Lumsa, climbed Everest in May 1993 in his 1st 8000er ascent 
    Nawang Chokleg is monk at Thami monastery who is known in the world outside as 
      Ang Jangbu; 34 years old; this is his 1st 8000er


expid: CHOY96107
peakid: CHOY
year: 1996
route1: W side
nation: Italy
leaders: Antonio Vaccari
sponsor: A.A.S. Cho Oyu Expedition
countries: Denmark
bcdate: 1996-04-15
smtdate: 1996-05-07
termdate: 1996-05-11
termnote: Abandoned at 8150m due to exhaustion and confusion
agency: Last Frontiers Trekking
campsites:
  BC(15/04,ABC(17/04,5400m),C1(21/04,6000m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(26/04,6750m),C4(04/05,7100m),C5(05/05,7400m),xxx(07/05,8150m)

routememo:
  Strynoe separated from Vaccari, et al above ABC, arriving first at 6000m campsite. Had 3 tents only and a German had to try to put up one of them but did it improperly and wind took this tent away. 7 May left C5 at 4:30 am alone and arrived at top at 6:30 pm and should have gone down but didn't and thinks he reached highest point in last light - sat down very confused and very tired but now believes he reached [only] 8153m - peak/snow dome. Had skis and video with him; used skis only "few seconds" from dome - saw no flags. That night at about 7900m stopped descent because of crevasses and spent night stamping feet; no moonlight; waiting all night standing and started descent as soon as dark light came and reached C5 in morning and slept all day and all night there. 9th got more and more tired and slept in NZer's tent at about 6600m. Reached 5400m 10th about 5:00 pm.

  NZ expedition member 27 May: Strynoe lucky to be alive as result of help down by NZer.

  Vaccari tried to go up to C3 on 7 May, stopped at 7100m because was alone and had to be in ABC on 8th and very tired trying to carry heavy load.

accidents:
  Sherpa sick (stomach trouble); Canni abcessed tooth; Gruzza kidney problem; Strynoe frostbitten 2 fingers


expid: CHOY96112
peakid: CHOY
year: 1996
route1: W side from N
nation: Austria
leaders: Erich Gatt
sponsor: Horizont Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 207,208,209 w/Ebner
countries: Germany, Luxembourg, Norway, Switzerland
approach: Directly to Tibet via Lhasa to Base Camp
bcdate: 1996-05-09
smtdate: 1996-05-19
termdate: 1996-05-29
campsites: ABC(09/05,5700m),C1(6400m),C2(6800m),C3(7500m),Smt(19,26-27/05)
accidents: Obermueller broken leg
achievment: 1st Norwegian woman to climb to 8000m
agency: Lamjung
routememo:
  Last two summit successes: 19 May Obermueller and Leuprecht summited separately, Obermueller first and he fell and broke his leg just above C3; he managed to crawl back to C3; Leuprecht was exhausted. On 19th next summit party arrived at C3 for their attempt next day; they were Greve, Erich and Stefan Gatt. 20th while Leuprecht descended to ABC, new summit team spent all morning preparing to get Obermueller down the mountain, strapping him on mats, and left C3 at 2:30 pm and reached C1 at 9:00 pm through snowfall and wind and arrived down next day to ABC. 25th May Greve, Erich and Stefan Gatts went up again to C2. 26th to C3 and 27th to summit and back to C2 same day. 

  This was a non-guided climb; Gatt provided tents and food, etc. and climbers were on their own concerning their movements. Last summit push put off till last possible date so that Greve could regain strength after very tiring rescue work.


  Eberhard Jurgalski - May 2005

  Eberhard cites an email message from Stefan Gatt stating that Siren Greve stopped at the summit plateau at 8000m, and did not continue on to the summmit. He said that she was too exhausted from the rescue effort of Obermueller on 20 May.


  Email from Stefan Gatt to Miss Hawley - 8 Aug 2005

  In Nov 96 we made a very complicated rescue of a person in lying position that survived. After that my father, Siren and me made a summit-attempt again and I reached the summit.

  Coming down, Siren and my father were very tired when I reached them on 8100m. Shortly after that, they turned back to the last camp.


expid: PUMO96103
peakid: PUMO
year: 1996
route1: SE Ridge/Face-E Ridge
nation: Greece
leaders: Antonios Sykaris
sponsor: Hellenic Association of Mountaineers Pumori Expedition
ascent1: 109
bcdate: 1996-04-16
smtdate: 1996-04-29
termdate: 1996-05-02
campsites: BC(16/04,5340m),C1(18/04,5700m),C2(19/04,6100m),C3(28/04,6570m),Smt(29/04)
accidents: Nothing serious
achievment: 1st Greece ascent
agency: Nepal Trek House
routememo:
  BC at Gorak Shep near lake
  C3 50m below col at base of rock.

  Used C1 only in start of climb for acclimatization; in push for summit went directly to C2. After pitching C2 went down to BC to rest 5 days. Summit group left BC 27th to C2, reached C3 on 28th and to top on 29th. 3 members had reached summit bid on 24th, got to C1, tried for C2 on 25th, turned back at 5700-5800m because of fog and snowfall and back to BC. Decided all 6 climbing members would make next try together and did. 29th summit party slept that night in C3 and down to BC 30th. Went to summit without roping together and with Dan Mazur from US-UK team.


expid: PUMO96104
peakid: PUMO
year: 1996
route1: SE Face (did not reach face)
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Guy Cotter
sponsor: New Zealand-Malaysian Pumori Expedition
countries: Malaysia
bcdate: 1996-05-04
smtdate: 1996-05-06
termdate: 1996-05-13
termnote: Guides had to help Everest emergency (Hall and team)
campsites: BC(04/05,5300m),xxx(06/05,5600m)
accidents: Choong high altitude sickness
achievment: 1st Malaysian attempt
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC at normal site near lake.

  6 May dumped loads at site for ABC and back to BC. Next day went to Everest BC "for a break" and Choong got altitude sickness and had to be carried to aid post at Periche by porters while most members stayed at Pumori BC. 10 May at Pumori BC made radio call to Hall on Everest summit 2:15 pm. As afternoon wore on, Cotter became involved in Everest communications. 11th Cotter to other New Zealanders went to Everest BC while 5 Malaysians stayed in Pumori BC for 2 more days, then to Everest BC as possible evacuation help, but not needed and left Everest BC to go home on 15th.


expid: PUMO96101
peakid: PUMO
year: 1996
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Michal Brunner
sponsor: Czech Pumori Expedition
ascent1: 107
bcdate: 1996-04-04
smtdate: 1996-04-09
smttime: 1315
termdate: 1996-04-11
othersmts: Attempted Dhaulagiri (DHA1-961-04) (by Brunner and Matousek)
campsites: BC(04/04,5250m),C1(08/04,5800m),Smt(09/04)
accidents: Danek altitude sickness and down to Periche's Gamov bag
agency: Star Trek
routememo:
  BC near lake
  C1 on SE Face.

  On 9th April at 6:30 am started from C1, reached col at 8:00 am and up East Ridge to top 1:15 pm and returned to C1. To BC on 10th. Only 3 tried for top, others not strong enough. Only 5 members did any climbing.


expid: PUMO96105
peakid: PUMO
year: 1996
route1: SE Face (left of normal rte) up; E Col down
route2: SE Face-E Ridge (to 6200m)
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Leopold Sulovsky
sponsor: C.A.B.C. Czech Mountaineering Expedition to Pumori & Ama Dablam
ascent1: 110
bcdate: 1996-05-10
smtdate: 1996-05-16
termdate: 1996-05-17
othersmts: Island Peak, attempted Ama Dablam (AMAD-961-03)
campsites: BC(10/05,5400m),Biv1(13/05,6100m),Biv2(14/05,6500m),Biv3(15/05,7000m),Smt(16/05)
accidents: None
agency: Trekking International
routememo:
  BC at normal BC site or little higher (near lake)
  Biv just above safe couloir.

  16 May on top after 50 minutes climb from 3rd bivouac at 7000m and down to BC same day to East Col and down normal route to BC at 2:10 pm. Route averaged 500m to left of normal route SE Face.

  Real climbing by two members only (others to Island Peak). 

  Tandler went to Pumori C2 on normal route (about 6200m) on 13 May, slept there and down to BC on 14th because not acclimatizing well.


expid: AMAD96102
peakid: AMAD
year: 1996
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Josu Bereziartua
sponsor: Ama Dablam 1996 Basque Expedition
bcdate: 1996-04-15
smtdate: 1996-04-27
termdate: 1996-04-30
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to lack of rope, strength and time
campsites: BC(15/04,4600m),C1(19/04,5500m),C2(27/04,5900m),xxx(27/04,5900m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 lower than normal 
  C2 near tower (normal site)
  High point at C2.

  C1 low because only 2 people to carry and very far to normal site. Where C2 was would need fixed rope and had none in C2, would have to go down to it, go up again, but much snow and very tired. Did not see any fixed rope in place above them. No time to go down and back up. Every day at noon low clouds and slight snowfall. In climbing had to be very careful because of snow and ice. No one else on mountain at same time. Gave up on April 28.


expid: AMAD96103
peakid: AMAD
year: 1996
route1: SE Face-ESE Ridge (Russian rte)
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Leopold Sulovsky
sponsor: C.A.B.C. Czech Mountaineering Expedition to Pumori & Ama Dablam
bcdate: 1996-04-30
smtdate: 1996-05-03
termdate: 1996-05-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to danger from two seracs
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak and Pumori (PUMO-961-05)
campsites: Biv(30/04,5100m),Biv(01/05,5600m),Biv(02/05,6550m),xxx(03/05,6600m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Trekking International
primid: PUMO96105
routememo:
  Biv south of SW Ridge
  Biv before start of SE Face
  Biv on East Ridge
  High point at 6600m on East Ridge.

  Stopped at 6600m, 2 big seracs and great danger, so down SE Face to left (west) of East Ridge and same day (3 May) to Thyangboche. One day more to summit from 6600m, but too dangerous. Had hoped they were making new route; knew nothing about Russians in spring 1994 until today.


expid: AMAD96104
peakid: AMAD
year: 1996
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Sweden
leaders: Sten-Goran Linbladh
sponsor: Swedish Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: USA
bcdate: 1996-05-01
smtdate: 1996-05-09
termdate: 1996-05-11
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to bad weather and lack of time
campsites: BC(01/05,4500m),C1(05/05,5400m),C2(08/05,5900m),xxx(09/05,6200m)
accidents: Tufvesson sinusitis
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  C2 at normal site (only place for a camp on red tower)
  High point at end of mushroom ridge.

  9th May wanted to pitch C3 at 6300m but had to turn back at 6200m because threatening clouds building up so back to C2 and on 10th to BC. Tent at C1 badly ripped by birds (Goraks) which got inside and plundered food inside.

  8th May Americans reached 5850m just before red tower; had last camp at 5700m, saw bad weather coming, very safety conscious. Slept 8th May in C1 and at BC on 9th and back to aid post to Pheriche.


expid: AMAD96101
peakid: AMAD
year: 1996
route1: NW Face up; SW Ridge down
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Vanja Furlan
sponsor: Slovenian Ama Dablam Expedition 1996
ascent1: 183
bcdate: 1996-04-11
smtdate: 1996-05-04
othersmts: Island Peak
accidents: None
agency: Wilderness Experience
campsites:
  BC(11/04,4700m),Biv1(30/04,5630m),Biv2(01/05,5950m),Biv3(02/05,6200m),Biv4(03/05,6600m),Biv5(04/05,6500m),Smt(04/05),Biv6(05/05,4800m)

routememo:
  biv 1 on NW Face (on Japanese autumn BC route)
      2 on NW Face to left of Japanese route
      3 on NW Face
      4 on NW Face
      5 at top of Dablam Glacier on normal SW Ridge route
      6 close to normal BC site.

  Rested at BC 4 days on return from Island Peak. Furlan and Humar 21st April to 25th tried to mark ascent but weather bad (snowfall and frequent avalanche) all these days; put tent under serac at 5630m (at biv site) and waited for good weather which didn't come; on 28th down to BC, taking all gear down with them so that when went up again, second ascent would be pure alpine-style; had gotten to high point of 5780m on 24th. 30th April started up again in successful continuous push to top in more direct route than that of Japanese in 80 hrs on NW Face. In last of descent, went through C1 of Swedish-US team, lost their way below C1 in fog and bivouacked on grass near water and not far from normal BC site. 6th May returned to own BC. 

  Most difficult part on 1st and 2nd May (5680m to 6010m at end of rocks) this the crux of ascent 70 degrees to 90 degrees mostly ice; at top section, two very difficult pitches; 2nd biv very poor place (hanging biv) which had not expected to have to stop at, but did because was late in day; at this biv accidently dropped all ice screws and therefore had to continue upwards on face because impossible to decend without ice screws and to solo climb upwards (except for one rock pitch); biv 3 took hours to dig out ledge in hard ice.


expid: NUMB96101
peakid: NUMB
year: 1996
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Michael Sinclair
sponsor: American Numbur Expedition
countries: Canada
bcdate: 1996-04-28
smtdate: 1996-05-13
termdate: 1996-05-15
termnote: Abandoned on 15 May due to bad weather and route difficulty
campsites: BC(28/04,4950m),C1(02/05,5530m),xxx(13/05,5700m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  BC at Yaligolja lake (normal site)
  C1 on glacier
  High point just below snow ridge.

  Tried alpine-style ascent from C1. Hung old fixed ropes on 13th May and all 4 members reached 5700m (below snow ridge) in dark (7:00 pm) and snow falling and bivouacked there: also high winds and lightening - "not a comfortable bivouac." 14th May to C1. 15th May night very high winds and lot of lightning, so on basis of all that we decided it was too difficult for our team and abandoned expedition and went trekking. More technical than expected: rock crumbling and somewhat steep; were carrying own loads and had no Sherpa helpers.


expid: EVER96115
peakid: EVER
year: 1996
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Rob Hall
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Friendship Everest Expedition 1996
ascent1: 228
countries: Australia, Canada, Japan, S Africa, USA
bcdate: 1996-04-09
smtdate: 1996-05-10
campsites: BC(09/04,5350m),C1(16/04,5900m),C2(18/04,6400m),C3(29/04,7350m),C4(09/05,7900m),Smt(10/05)
achievment: Oldest woman to summit
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face (50m higher than normal site)
  C4 at South Col.

  1st summit bid (only one expected) started at 11:30 pm of 9th from C4: 1 Sherpa and Fischbeck turned back after 2 hrs when Fischbeck felt not well enough and "intuitively had a bad feeling" since had been on Everest 3 times before but "weather was perfect" at the time; reached SE Ridge (c.8300m) at dawn by Ang Dorje and Krakauer, 1-1/2 hours ahead of Hall, who told them to wait for others and Scott Fisher's group arrived with Hall's others, which caused congestion and a member annoyed when they took of from them ahead of Hall's party. An hour lost in delay fixing rope from S Summit up, which did not take place immediately by Sherpas who were sitting smoking and said not their job - had not been properly instructed. Krakauer, Kasischke, Beidleman and Hansen's reacted to this by taking the rope from Sherpa and 3 of these members who were guides of the two teams had same rope and setting off to do it. By time reached S Summit wind had blown up (steady 20-30 knot wind) plume coming off summit and when Krakauer on top, clouds coming up from below. Krakauer stayed on top only few minutes, met group coming up Hillary Step and waited 1/2 hour for them to pass. Namba going very well till just below S Summit, when much slower where technical problems greater than her experience could readily cope with - clipped onto old ropes instead of right ones - and was inefficient in expending her energy: very slight (41 kg only and had to ask Sherpas to carry her 2 kgs down suit which climbers were suppose to carry themselves). Krakauer's oxygen ran out at Hillary Step and got to C4 at 6:00-6:30 pm with strong wind ("scream of winds") and intermittent white out: K. was 1st - Sherpa to reach tent and (Harris 1st to Col) but never got into tents - crampon marks seen heading for Lhotse face). Hansen at base of Step very near Hall at summit of snow cave Hall is in. Namba seen by Hutchison in snow and ice very unlikely to have ever moved again. Weathers was very partially incased and walked into BC c5:00 am saying "its great to be alive"; was put onto own tent but Sherpas entering tent freaked out and left tent flaps flapping. Hutchison exhausted and unable to function well in C4 completely busy looking after known hiring (Groom, Taske exhausted) (Kasischke frostbitten and snow blind).

  All had gone smoothly with whole group together till disaster struck on 10th - no previous drama.

  At 2:15 pm Hall and his 2 Sherpas were on summit and Namba with him, Hall reported from summit by radio; Hansen seem to be coming up and Hall would wait for him. Groom and Harris were moving down from summit. Hall sent Ang Dorje (aka. Chuldin) and Norbu down with Namba.

  Ang Dorje, aka Chuldin Dorje, Pangboche, scaled Everest 3 times before, Broad Peak and Cho Oyu once.


  Groom - 15 May 96 (by telephone)

  Hall has to be dead. "Vicious" storms after 10th May. Hall weak voice and could tell he was cold on 11th. Wind even worse that evening 80-100 km/hr
  Hansen (US) between Hillary Step and S Summit - probably died early night of 10th.

  Harris last seen 100m up from C4 before maybe 6 pm dramatic night turns and 10th walked towards Lhotse and not seen since Namba. Groom is escorting her down from top to about 8500m where met Weathers and had to short rope him down and she ahead - at bottom of gully she none of oxygen, because exhausted. Fischer descending members including Neal now escorted her, visibility lost, night fall winds up - reached lowest part of Col near East Face, really lost, so lay down. Namba extremely confused and unable to understand where she was or what was going on. 12:30-1:00 am clouds descend and able to get bearing. 10-12 had been lying down. Groom shoulder (?) blind Beck then left them, Namba and Beck, with several Americans while Groom searched for C4 and found it 1:00 am - asked teammates strong people at C4 to send others go to Namba. Groom collapsed in tent and slept. Hutchinson found Beck and Namba so near death left them. Beck crawled into C4 5:00 am saying its great to be alive - not known where she is. 

  Fischer lying somewhere between S Summit at 8400m - bived with Gau - seen by Ang Dorje and Norbu on 11th when they went up to try to take oxygen and thermos.


  Groom - 15 May 97 (by telephone)

  "My fingers little bit frostbitten," emotionally down, "quite shattered and upset."

  May come to Thamserku/Kangtega in autumn "but just now that's the furthest thing from my mind."


  Caroline Mackenzie - 12 May am

  Weathers alive at Col but dying. Athans and Burleson at Col. Duff and 3 tried to reach Hall and had to dump oxygen and thermos below him. Hall no contact today.
  Fischer and Gau found alive but only Gau could be gotten down. Fischer unable to move.

  Bukreev went to try get Fischer but came down alone to Col yesterday. Harris to South Col yesterday and fell, missing, and footprints leading down Lhotse Face.


  Letter to Miss Hawley from Madeleine David:

  -  Late summit on an increasingly windy day for Mike Groom, 
     Yasuka Namba, Jan Krakauser, Andy Harris, Doug Hansen and Rob Hall.
  -  At 2:30 pm Rob was still on summit waiting for a tired Doug. 
  -  At 4:15 pm Rob was heard calling for oxygen from the top of the 
     Hillary Step. This was for both he and Doug who at this stage was very weak.
  -  We were unable to communicate with anyone who could bring oxygen to 
     Rob, although broken transmission led us to believe at one stage
     that a Sherpa was returning. He could not be pursuaded to leave the
     weakened Doug and his last transmission was at 5:45 pm as he was 
     bringing Doug down the Hillary Step.
  -  As night fell and a storm blew in, it became apparent that not only 
     our expedition but also Scott Fischer's American team and a Taiwan climber
     with 2 Sherpas were having extreme difficulty returning to the South Col.
  -  By 8:30 pm a combined team of Base Camp staff from NZ, British, South
     African and American teams were working franticlly to enlist aid with
     efforts continuing throughout the night frustrated by a blizzard, 
     nil visibility, high winds and exhaustion of most people of the South
     Col. Rob stunned us all by radioing from the South Summit at 4:45 
     am today and rescue was mounted for him after early morning winds 
     died down (in progress time of writing) 
  -  while at midnight the total of climbers above the col was 21, 
     by 8:40 this morning that number had reduced to 10, with all eleven 
     climbers returning to South Col tents.
  -  A second rescue, for those at the Col, of approximately thirty has been
     mounted by climbers currently at C2 and C3 and will take place over 
     the next 2 days.
  -  Every expedition team at BC is currently involved in this epic rescue
     and is praying and working for the safety of Rob Hall as three Sherpas
     approach his location on the South Summit. 


  From Guy Cotter (NZ guide) at Everest Base Camp - 13 May 1996.

  On 10 May between 1:30 pm and 2:30 pm the summit of Mt Everest was reached by Rob Hall (NZ), Yasuko Namba (Japan), Doug Hansen and Jon Krakauer (USA), Michael Groom (Australia) and Andy Harris (NZ). The group began the descent back to their top camp (IV) at 7900m. Last to descend wer Rob Hall and Doug Hansen who were caught by nightfall above the South Summit and consequently ran out of bottled oxygen. Hansen died during the night and Hall was forced to bivouac in the open at 8750m, without tent or sleeping bag. Lower on the mountain the other climbers who had that day became lost. By dawn the total missing were Hall and Hansen above the South Summit. Yasuko Namba and Beck Weathers (Weather did not summit but awaited the descending climbers), Scott Fisher (from the American group), along with Makalu Gau from Taiwan who was with 2 Sherpas. Andy Harris (NZ) was also still missing, having last been seen very close to the tents at the South Col (c4) in whiteout conditions.

  In the morning a rescue for Hall was initiated by 2 Sherpas, Ang Dorje and Lhakpa Chhiri, who tried to carry oxygen and drink to him on the South Summit. Hall was in radio contact with base camp where he was able to describe his condition and talk to friends. He even spoke to his wife Jan Arnold who had climbed Everest with Hall in 1993. On satellite phone link to NZ Hall sounded positive but was unable to move due to extreme cold. Meanwhile a search contined for the missing climbers on the South Col. Discovered dead were Yasuko Namba and Scott Fischer. Beck Weathers quite remarkably "came back to life" having been considered dead. After being out in the open for almost 20 hours he got up and walked into camp.

  Bad weather and strong wind plagued the already exhausted climber who were performing the search. However, they combed the South Col area bringing in climbers from the various groups and supplying life supporting oxygen, drinks and specialised high altitude drugs. On the South Summit Hall was immobile and late in the day was informed from BC that the Sherpas performing the rescue had to turn back due to very high winds and extreme cold. They left oxygen and a thermos for Hall on the SE ridge, some 200m below him and descended to the South Col fearing for their own lives in the bitterly severe conditions. Hall took the news stoically that rescue wouldn't happen until the following day, stating he would wait. After a call to his wife he turned off his radio and was not heard from again. An aeroplane flight over the South Summit revealed no sign of movement.

  Beck Weathers, who was in critical condition when he stumbled into camp at the South Col, was given attention and eventually began accepting fluids. All of the expeditions on the mountain halted their climbing to provide assistance, selflessly providing personnel, equipment and support. Only one expedition of the eleven on the mountain carried on with their climb while all others pitched in.

  Americans Pete Athans and Todd Burleson prepared to make another rescue attempt for Hall but foul weather made this impossible. Instead they concentrated their efforts to bring Beck Weathers down which was accomplished successfully over 2 days with the help of climbers of all nationalities (too many to name). A daring helicopter rescue was accomplished by the Nepalese Airforce by Colonel KC from the top of the notoriously difficult and dangerous Khumbu Icefall. This helicopter rescue saved another full day of evacuation for Weathers and a severely frostbitten Taiwanese climber, Makalu Gau, 24 hours after leaving the South Col they were in the hands of expert high altitude medical technicians in Kathmandu.

  The redeeming feature of this tragedy has been the combining of resources and the ease with which the climbers from all countries have dropped their lifetime ambition of reaching the summit of Everest in order to help those in need.

accidents:
  Tenzin fell into crevasse between C1 & C2 climb; Weathers had snow[-blind] problem from arrival at C1 on 16th April to S Col)


expid: EVER96113
peakid: EVER
year: 1996
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Scott Fischer
sponsor: Mountain Madness Everest Expedition 1996
ascent1: 227
countries: Denmark, Kazakhstan
bcdate: 1996-04-07
smtdate: 1996-05-10
termdate: 1996-05-16
othersmts: Boukreev joined UK Lhotse (LHOT-961-01)
campsites: BC(07/04,5400m),C1(15/04,6100m),C2(21/04,6450m),C3(28/04,7300m),C4(09/05,7900m),Smt(10/05)
achievment: 1st Scandinavian Danish woman to summit
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  C2 in Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  At midnight of 9th/10th May summit party set out from col for top; they were all summiters and 2 Sherpas who turned back at SE Ridge at about 8500m. Storm brewed up about 5:00 pm with snowfall at 4:00 and from below. Fischer radioed c. 3:15 pm - extremely tired at summit and had same kind of previous medical problem; Lobsong reports that 8300m Fischer very confused sat down and refused to continue, so Lobsang left him at bivouac perch after trying to warm Fischer's face and reached col asking someone to go up to him. Beidleman in group and 11 together at Col unable to find tents. Gau probably shared Fischer's bivouac and next day said he left Scott more dead than alive. Fischer's death not related to clients; Beidleman's job was fixing ropes at front of party and Fischer's to bring up the rear and enforce summit off time. No client has said they saw Fischer after they left Col during his ascent. He obviously left Col later than all from this team and moved slowly. Lobsang said Fischer ripped off oxygen mask, glove, opened dome jacket. Fischer clearly seriously disoriented by cerebral edema.

  Krakauer of Hall's team 17 May 96: "Beidleman did amazing job saving the lives of his clients" but Sandy Hill Pittman disagrees. 

  Sherpas: 
    Lobsang Jangbu, Beding, atop Everest 3 times, Cho Oyu and Broad Peak once
    Nawang Dorje, Rolwaling, atop Cho Oyu twice, Everest never before
    Tenzing, Thami, 28, atop Everest 2 times before, no other 8000m
    Tashi Tshering, Pangboche, atop Everest 2 times before


  10 June 97 - Trekking agent P B Thapa and Dr. Buddha Basnet:

  Another Nawang Dorje from Rolwaling became very sick from pulmonary edema in C2 on 23 April, was evacuated from Pheriche by helicopter on 26 April to KTM, and died in Tribhuvan University Teaching Hospital on 7 June 96. He may have had some underlying illness (e.g., TB) but his death definitely due to his high altitude sickness and having been to C2's altitude. From BC he had been taken to Pheriche aid post where bad weather prevented immediate helicopter evacuation and he stopped breathing in Pheriche's Gamov bag for 5 minutes; in hospital showed some signs of dementia. (This Nawang Dorje had never been to any 8000m summit).

accidents:
  Fischer died of cerebral edema; Fox and Madsen altitude sickness; Kruse altitude sickness 2nd time in C1 about 6 May and left night after 10th; Nielson frostbitten fingers


expid: EVER96101
peakid: EVER
year: 1996
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Taiwan
leaders: Gau Ming-Ho (Makalu)
sponsor: 1996 Chinese Taipei Everest Expedition
ascent1: 229
bcdate: 1996-04-01
smtdate: 1996-05-10
smttime: 1500
termdate: 1996-05-20
campsites: BC(01/04),C1(06/04,5800m),C2(10/04,6300m),C3(16/04,7200m),C4(09/05,7900m),Smt(10/05)
accidents: Gau badly frostbitten during bivouac at 8300m; Chen fatal fall
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  C4 at South Col.

  2 May Chen and Gau to C4 together but not feeling well on 9th May, 2 Sherpas stayed with him while Gau and 2 Sherpas go to Col. Planned 2-4 May summit bid. Both members used oxygen in C3 sleeping. Gau went ahead on 9th and learned from Col on radio Chen had fallen and died (body to KTM on 19th May). Gau left 12:30 am and on top 3:00 pm (after Hall and Pittman and before Fischer). Down to 8300m and bivouacked there with oxygen almost finished and alone while Sherpas went down 7:30 pm leaving Gau (they were experienced and quick and Gau could not follow them). Gau reached South Col afternoon with help of one his Sherpas who came up to him, and helped him to Col; had tried to descend alone in morning but too dizzy to move alone.

  Gau's right eye had a particle inside: now bloodshot but can see now, hands and feet frozen and will lose parts. "Okay now only tired" want to climb again? "Sure why not?" "What?" "I don't know." Lost 4-5 Kg on climb. May go to Anchorage hospital that specializes in frostbite. Leaves KTM 15 May. 16 May was in good spirits. 


  Dr. David Shlim - 13 May 96

  Nose frostbitten, "devastating injuries." Thinks he spent 2 nights out. 2 Sherpas left him in descent; passed Fischer, rushing up, above Hillary Step, as Gau went downwards.

  10 fingers to knuckles and toes and soles of feet very bad, may be badly crippled. 

  Others of his expedition leave 19th.

  Leaves Wed? (Raju at Hotel Thamel) to go up for telephone.


expid: EVER96111
peakid: EVER
year: 1996
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Thierry Renard
sponsor: Everest French climber on South African permit
ascent1: 240
bcdate: 1996-04-06
smtdate: 1996-05-23
termdate: 1996-05-27
campsites: BC(06/04,5300m),C1(15/04,6300m),C2(14/04,7900m),Smt(23/04)
accidents: None
agency: Sherpa Cooperative Trekking (SCT)
routememo:
  C1 in Cwm
  C2 at South Col.

  On South African permit but entirely independent of them. Renard arrived KTM 22 March and flew to SYB 29th March - all his equipment; same mess tent and cook in BC no South African but own food and cook in C2. Strategy was to be light and fast so no camp at top of Icefall and none on Lhotse Face. To acclimatize climbed to 6100m and 7300m and 7500m several times but did not sleep there. Period of good weather is so brief that plan was to be ready when good weather came to go BC-Cwm-South Col-Summit 14th May 1st attempt and from Cwm with Babu and Dawa to col in 8 hours and from Col left 1:00 am on 15th but snow in couloir very deep, slow progress and on ridge wind strengthened and turned back below S Summit at 8:00 am. Down to BC to rest and after few days to Cwm. 22nd all 3 men to South Col and were there with IMAX team and Spanish and Swedes. Left Col for top on 23rd and snow much better in couloir. Imax mess and this trio passed each other several times and took turns breaking trail but trio were on top first. Renard followed old Bolivian custom and placed his son's umblical cord on summit. Returned up South Col at 3:00 pm, stayed 2 hours to rest and down to camp in Cwm at night: 32 hours Cwm-Col-top-Col-Cwm.

  Sherpas:  
    Baba Tshering from Taksindu - well-known Everest summiter
    Dawa, Babu Tsering's brother and also Taksindu: 32 yrs old
       this perhaps his first 8000m summit athough he has been on Dhaulagiri I


expid: EVER96119
peakid: EVER
year: 1996
route1: S Plr-S Col-SE Ridge (up); SE Ridge-S Col (down)
nation: Sweden
leaders: Goran Kropp
sponsor: Sweden Everest Expedition
ascent1: 242 w/Spa
bcdate: 1996-04-11
smtdate: 1996-05-23
smttime: 1230
termdate: 1996-05-27
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Peak Promotion
campsites:
  BC(11/04,5300m),Biv(20/04,6000m),C2(21/04,6400m),Biv(7200m),C3(02/05,7750m),C4(03/05,7900m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)

routememo:
  C2 in Cwm
  Biv at only time
  C3 on South Pillar (top of Pillar)
  C4 at Col (other people's tents).

  Made on route through icefall to left of general route and pitched C1 near most others; was fairly easy except for 10m vertical section and 10m rock scrambling. Had only one tent so used its cover as shelter at BC and inner tent carried with him. Biv at same altitude as others and used 3-4 ladders placed by others between C1 and C2. Up from C2 site to 7150m to acclimatize but not slept there; next day to 7200m also only to acclimatize but slept there and day after down and rested at BC. Then Kropp and 2 Martinez brothers up to 7850m together and shared Kropp's big tent. 3rd May Jose did not go up higher while Kropp and Jesus went higher and reached South Col, having left biv at 7850m at 1:23 pm in perfect weather; went on normal route and 8300m Jesus retreated while Kropp all alone to 8000m at 2:00 pm making tracks in knee-deep snow without oxygen and turned back - saw where he was but decided too late to go up. Going back to South Col thinking to enter other's tent but wind dropped and was able to return to tent left at 7850m - "was completely exhausted", so stayed at 7850m till 4th May (Spaniards descended on 5th). Wanted to reach summit with all his own food (had food for only one summit bid) but "failed in this." In BC ate film crew's food now onwards, not own food. Exhausted when arrived there on 7th - then had to wait for good weather. Left BC for 2nd summit attempt 17th May to C2 by own route by Jesus and Kropp. 18th left tent at C2 and next to Col via pillar route - now very windy and need Taiwanese tent at col. 21st down to C2 because winds too strong on 19th to 20th to go to top. 22nd from C2 to Col via pillar. 23rd Kropp, Jesus and Ang Rita, who had been with film crew now joined Kropp's climb and went to col via normal route; left col 1:00 am and climbed behind IMAX team, who were using oxygen. Reached summit at 12:30 (Ang Rita), at 1:00 (Kropp), 12:35 (Martinez). Kropp afraid of his reaction to high altitude (seeing stars) and left very soon afterwards, reached Col just after 4:00 pm having several bouts of diarrhea; all 3 stayed at Col that night using South African tents. 24th down to C2 via normal route, Kropp 3-4 hours later than Jesus and Ang Rita. 25th to BC.

  Used Duff fixed ropes on pillar when had ice.

  "Think this is my last expedition to 8000m peak" (had 3 before).
  "Have climbed Everest in this style and K2 and Broad Peak very quickly as no need to play with my good luck" to try for more of them - wants lower and more technical mountains in future.

  Will return to Stockholm by his bicycle, which is now parked at Jiri. Since he flew to KTM from Syangboche, he plans to fly to SYB after about 2 weeks, walk with kit to Jiri and return on bicycle. Expects to return to Stockholm end of September.

  Kropp left Stockholm 16 Oct '95 on bicycle (special bike with 24 gears to Gorakpur; after 11,000 km gears broken and had 8 gears only (at high range) after that. Goes back with replacement bike. Brought 80 kg of all high altitude foods, tents, etc. (all he needs on mountain). To Jiri on old bike and then walks pulling by himself the one-wheel wagon he bought from Sweden. Then climbs Lobuche (trekking peak) to acclimatize so as to go through Khumbu Icefall only 2-3 times. Kropp climbs alone but six other people one as his permit and will also be on the pillar. Believes he is doing Everest in a new way including his solo trip from and to Sweden: "its not just the climbing." Has 45 days of food for mountain.


expid: EVER96108
peakid: EVER
year: 1996
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Africa
leaders: Ian Woodall
sponsor: Sunday Times Everest Expedition
ascent1: 245
countries: UK
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1996-04-05
smtdate: 1996-05-25
smttime: 0951
termdate: 1996-05-30
campsites: BC(05/04,5350m),Dep(09/04,6000m),C2(16/04,6500m),C3(07/05,7300m),C4(09/05,7900m),Smt(25/05)
accidents: None except Herrod's death
agency: Sherpa Cooperative Trekking (SCT)
routememo:
  Depot at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face (lowest of all the teams)
  C4 at South Col.

  On 9 May summit team Woodall, O'Dowd, Herrod, Ang Dorje, Nawang, Pemba and Jangmu went to Col intending to go from C4 at midnight of 9/10th, but didn't leave col that night because afternoon of night storm came up and caught Herrod and Ian Woodall, who arrived tired and slightly late (c5:00 pm). So decided to stay extra day at Col. 10th at Col all day and did not communicate directly to other teams on Col; radio call at 6:00 pm to BC learned Hall on ridge with a client in dire trouble and his BC trying to organize some kind of rescue; Ian spent all night on radio handling all teams communication with BC. 

  Hutchinson to go and bring in 2 "dead" people but Stewart said no permit to do so and next morning volunteered other help which was also refused - were not asked to lend radio at C4 for rescue coordination. Stayed at Col to keep radio open for others and then when ready to go down to C3 winds terrible and stayed night of 11th and down to C2 on 12th and BC 13th with Woodall big toes slightly frostbitten and not sure about going back up again; no room to criticize professionalism of Hall and Fischer, who stayed till last of their clients were coming down.

  Woodall, O'Dowd, Herrod, Deysel and 4 Sherpa climbers left BC on 18th for another summit bid; slept in C2, 19th rested at C2, 20th Ian O'Dowd and Herrod to C3 (Deysel stayed at C2 because not put on permit till mid-May due to lack of finances for her to go on permit so not acclimatized). 21st down to C2 because of winds. 22nd in C2 resting and 23rd to C3, 24th to C4, when 3 of Sherpas came up from C2 directly. 25th left C4 12:30 am (3 members and 3 Sherpas) and arrived on top: 9:51 Ian and Pemba, 10:10 O'Dowd, 10:40 Ang Dorje and Jangbu, Herrod at 5:00 pm. Descent in dark not problem in 3/4 moon and had started in dark. Ian at C4 4:00 pm, O'Dowd at 3:00 pm, Pemba earlier than Ian and other Sherpa between Ian and O'Dowd. Passed Herrod in their descent and his ascent when he was below S Summit; he radioed at 5:00 pm he was on top and sounded so pleased" to be there, says O'Dowd. Never heard from him again but think he fell between Summit and S Summit because he did not come on radio at 6:00 pm as should have. He had full suit on, plenty of oxygen with him and was cache for him on ridge. "He was superb mountaineer, if he wasn't I would not have invited him to be my main mate" on team. 26th to C2 by all survivors; Ian in mid-afternoon waiting for Harrod in clear day and so Herrod and Ian's oxygen ran out. 27th all to BC. 

  "No comment" only answers on resignation/departure of February, De Klerk, Hackland [and Noble] from team.

  Sherpas:
    Jangbu, aka Lama Jangbu, Kharikhola, 32, atop Everest May 95 and Cho Oyu Oct 95
    Ang Dorje, Tate, Khumbu, 43, no previous 8000ers
    Pemba Tenzee, Chatu, Solu, 34 (Jan 62), scaled Cho Oyu 27 Apr 1990


  My interview with Jangbu (aka Lama Jangbu) Sherpa - 24 Sept 1996

  The three summiting Sherpas with the South African Everest team in the spring of 1996 left C2 at 6:00 am on 24 May and climbed through C3, where the three members, Ian Woodall, Cathy O'Dowd and Bruce Herrod, had slept and all six reached C4 at the South Col together at 1:00 pm. All six started up from C4 at midnight, but not very far above the camp, Herrod said he was sick and turned back; his sickness delayed Jangbu and Ang Dorje, who then ascended behind Woodall, O'Dowd and Pemba.

  Very near the summit, Jangbu and Ang Dorje met the other three coming down.  Pemba said they had been to the summit and had started their descent only 10 minutes there and taken pictures. Jangbu and Ang Dorje were on the top themselves at 10:30 am. There they found two metal poles standing up in the snow: the longer one had prayer flags and Sherpa scarves (khatas) tied to it, the other had something near the bottom with three pieces of glass in it [these are prisms placed there by Americans for measurements several years ago].

  At 12:00 noon, when Jangbu and Ang Dorje had descended to a little below the south summit, they met Herrod, who had come up alone and who continued on toward the summit alone. Jangbu does not know whether Herrod actually reached the top.


  Letter from Ian Woods to Miss Hawley - 3 Sept 1996

  Many people are deeply concerned that Woodall and O'Dowd may not have summited. No convincing photograph has been forthcoming despite repeated request from the climbing community.

  I attended their slide-show last week where a slide of the Chinese "triangle" was shown and presented as proof that this was the summit. A calendar of photograph has been produced with a "summit" photograph. I will endeavour to send this to you asap.

  I would be most grateful and appeal to you to find out from the Sherpas their side of the story (Woodall claims they summited with 3 Sherpas). I am sure we can trust their honesty, lets hope they did succeed, but from South African point of view we do need to clarify.


expid: EVER96103
peakid: EVER
year: 1996
route1: S Pillar-S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Malcolm Duff
sponsor: Ascent Everest Expedition
countries: Denmark, Finland, USA
bcdate: 1996-04-02
smtdate: 1996-05-22
termdate: 1996-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 8600m due to no more strength
campsites: BC(02/04,5400m),C1(06/04,5950m),C2(10/04,6450m),C3(28/04,7600m),C4(04/05,8100m),xxx(22/05,8600m)
accidents: Fullen serious attack about 25th April near top of the icefall; Sejberg broken ribs
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on rock at night edge of Pillar
  C4 at 100m from South Col-SE Ridge route (very well protected)
  High point at below South Summit.

  Lot of stone fell off SW Face so followed normal route to below Geneva Spur (further in that direction than original Polish route) and then at bergschrund at bottom of Lhotse Face and thence to and up Pillar. After C4 made, down to BC and some to Pheriche for rest. Went to C2 on 7th May. Gustafsson, Christensen, Duff, Duncan and Sherpas on 8th from C2 to C3 and on 9th from C3 to C4 but "we didn't like the look of the weather and came down again" to C2 (high sinuous clouds, gusty winds, and it didn't feel good" to these experienced climbers). 

  Hansen on 10th established medical unit at C2 while Gustafsson, Viesturs and Brunshems same day to C3, and Duff and Duncan to C3 next day for possible rescue and did escort down people descending later on 11th May. Down to BC to recuperate. 

  Duff, Duncan, Christensen, Gustafsson, Mathorne and 3 Sherpas from C2 on 21st to C3 and Gustafsson, Christensen to C4 and 22nd they and 2 Sherpas left C4 for summit. Christensen to 8400m and Gustafsson to 8600m but not using oxygen and got very cold. Sherpas using oxygen went 8600m and turned back with Gustafsson and climb finished: no more strength (Dorje and Dawa went to 8600m); had already decided this attempt would end climb.


expid: EVER96104
peakid: EVER
year: 1996
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: David Breashears
sponsor: Everest IMAX Filming Expedition
ascent1: 241
countries: Austria, India, Japan, Spain, UK
bcdate: 1996-04-03
smtdate: 1996-05-23
smttime: 1100
termdate: 1996-05-28
campsites: BC(03/04,5350m),C1(10/04,5900m),C2(16/04,6500m),C3(22/04,7300m),C4(22/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
accidents: None
achievment: Schauer only to summit Everest 18 years after first ascent on 2nd ascent
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall (just)
  C2 in West Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Went to C3 on 7th for summit bid on 9th but when all 6 members woke up at 8 am winds screaming and saw 30 people coming up the face; decided weather not good enough, didn't want to get caught up in crowd, not good for filming in wind shaking pod; just wasn't the time to go up with weather - not true sudden storm on 10th afternoon; each day pattern was fog on Col in late afternoon and fierce winds blew up in mid-morning from 7th. So down to C2 on 8th. Viesturs, Schauer and Breashears up to body of Taiwanese who died on ropes between C2 and C3 at about 3:00 pm on 9th and immediately they went up bring his body down to C2. 11th when realized disaster had struck above and at Col, so these 3 men and Gustafsson and Spanish woman up to C3 and Schauer and Viesturs up higher and met Athans and Burleson coming down with Weathers and took over lowering and escorting Weathers to C3 (Spanish had been making drinks for all people coming down face). Rested at BC and started about 17th and waited at C2 for good weather report and 22nd up to Col by all six climbing members and 9 Sherpas. 23rd Tsuzuki told to stay at col (not strong -for safety) and 5 members and 7 Sherpas was up for summit, 2 Sherpas designate to carry oxygen to 27,500 and return to Col to be in support at Col if needed. Viesturs arrived at top 11:00 am, Breashears 11:20 am and rest between 11:20 and 12:00 noon - returned to C4 to sleep: Viesturs 2:30 pm and rest by 4:00 pm. 24th to C2, 26th BC.

  Summit Sherpas:
  1) Lhakpa Dorje, 30, Kurima, Solu, - Everest 1 time before on north side with Taiwanese in 95 [Taiwanese called him only Lhakpa, said he was 26 and from Thami]
  2) Zangbu/Jangbu - Everest 14/5/95 only 8000m
  3) Muktu Lhakpa, 23 - Tashigaon in Makalu areas - no 8000m before
  4) Thilen, 28 years old

  Breashears 4th June: Hall and Fischer not dressed really warmly - over confident of routine ascent. Fischer's guide Boukreev climbed without oxygen which guide should not do to be able to look after clients, not just himself - but Boukreev did go out on Col and help find and get to C4 2-3 lost climbers.

  Viesturs - re bodies: 
    1) Hall in notch between S Summit and final ridge 
    2) Fischer 250-300m above South Col on rock ledge of face above Col
    3) Harris? no one knows - body not seen despite search by Viesturs and 
       Schauer at bergschrund at bottom of Lhotse Face
    4) Hansen? not seen, no one knows - down East Face? no one knows 
    5) Namba - east side of South Col? no one went looking;

  Helicopter that evacuated Gau and Weathers; landed twice to lift each from place slightly above most teams C1.

  Breashears: Gerry Roach added to membership when Ohlund announced at BC he would go no higher - but Roach behaved very oddly and never went above BC himself.
     

  Tsuzuki - 23 March (by telephone)

  National Park did not permit her entry, but went into park without a permit, park authorities believe. This is misunderstanding - in Jan went to scene of Nov 95's avalanche in Gokyo. Tsuzuki plans to fly to SYB with expedition oxygen in a week. [She came to KTM yesterday 22 March].

  She returned to BC and reached South Col and her ban on entry into Sagarmatha National's Park for 5 years took effect on 1 June.


expid: EVER96102
peakid: EVER
year: 1996
route1: SW Face (Bonington rte)
nation: Norway
leaders: Petter Neby
sponsor: Neby Everest Expedition
bcdate: 1996-04-01
smtdate: 1996-04-26
termdate: 1996-04-28
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to leader's rushing back to Norway
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (25th March by Neby and 3 Nepalese)
campsites: BC(01/04,5400m),C1(06/04,5900m),C2(14/04,6500m),C3(20/04,6900m),xxx(26/04,7800m)
accidents: None
agency: Tamang Crossland Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in W Cwm
  C3 on SW Face
  High point at below Couloir.

  The four Tamangs reached site for C4 at 7800m on 26th April, but camp never slept in. Leader Neby was in C2 that day, had been to C3 on 22nd. Climb abandoned because Neby received [fax] message at BC that Neby's daughter was seriously ill and he rushed to Norway and climb finished.

  Dawa Tamang summited SW Face with Koreans on 14 Oct 95.

  Goren Kropp, Swedish Everest South leader 31 May 96: a Danish member of Duff's expedition said stone fell on Neby's helmet and damaged it - "this thing of his daughters illness came very conveniently so I am a little bit doubtful about it" - no fax at Swedish BC - Neby

  Duff - 30 May 96

  Considerable rock fall on SW Face perhaps encouraged Neby's departure.


expid: EVER96106
peakid: EVER
year: 1996
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Radosav Nikcevic
sponsor: Yu Everest Expedition 1996
bcdate: 1996-04-04
smtdate: 1996-05-09
termdate: 1996-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 8800m due to climber tired; weather bad and low morale from 10th May deaths
campsites: BC(04/04,5350m),C1(13/04,6100m),C2(16/04,6440m),C3(26/04,7200m),C4(03/05,7900m),xxx(09/05,8800m)
accidents: One member frostbitten toe; Niklevic cough and kidney problem at BC only
achievment: 1st Montenegro attempt on Everest
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  C1 higher than others this spring
  C2 in Weestern Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face (not Imax team)
  C4 at South Col
  High point at bottom of Hillary Step.

  C4 pitched 20th April but not occupied till 3rd May because of winds and everyone said early May is best time for summit, so rested in C2 and BC. 

  1st attempt for top: 2nd May in C3 and 3rd May C4, left C4 4th May for summit bid by all 6 climbers and 2 Sherpas. But weather not good, Sherpas very tired from carrying loads and this factor plus strong winds led party to turn back 200m above Col and down to C3 and next day to C2. 

  Last attempt C4 arrival about 4:00 pm on 8th May: Stolica, Lalovic, Vujicic and 3 Sherpas in first bid for top via South Col route; left 1:30 am 9th May and reached just below Hillary Step at 1:00 pm; very deep snow here and strong winds now blowing and low cloud and started now to snow; turned back at 8800m and back in C4 only 10:00 pm battling strong wind, could see very short distance (clouds) and very tired next day to C2 and climb finished.

  Ang Tshering, Dorje and Lhakpa Sonam saved life of of five who sat down at 8300m and had to be short-roped and guided and bought to C4; oxygen finished.


expid: EVER96123
peakid: EVER
year: 1996
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Peter Athans
sponsor: American Everest Expedition 1996
countries: Switzerland, UK
bcdate: 1996-04-15
smtdate: 1996-05-11
termdate: 1996-05-26
campsites: BC(15/04,5400m),C1(19/04,6100m),C2(21/04,6500m),C3(10/05,7300m),C4(11/05,7900m),xxx(11/05,7900m)
accidents: Benedikt pneumonia or pulmonary edema at C3 on 28 April
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
termnote:
  Abandoned on 21 May due to continuous winds, client's morale weakening, monsoon condition threatening soon

routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face (reached 28 April but not slept in)
  C4 at South Col
  High point at South Col.

  10th May summit party all members except Benedikt and 5 Sherpas to C3 planning summit bid 12th May. But 5:00 am on 11th learned on radio system that up to 18 people unaccounted for or known stranded, so Athans and Burleson only went up to C4 to help in rescue work while Williams left at C3 to look after clients and set up medical aid station there (clients went down to C2 on 12th). Weathers arrived at Col at 5:00 pm and Athans and Burleson able to get him stabilized and got him dressed next day and escorted him down to C2 afternoon became clear weather wasn't improving and more help not coming up - everybody down 13 May BC from all teams. 

  Another summit bid mounted on 16th, when next to C1 and 17th to C2: this party were Athans, Bridges, Corfield, Burleson, Williams and 5 Sherpas - stayed at C2 till 21st looking at wind and testing mood of remaining clients and realizing season coming to end with monsoon snows could come early. 2 clients mood not strong for continuing climbs and leaders didn't want to expose them and Sherpas to deteriorating Icefall and heavy snowfall. Made wrong decision to stop perhaps, but "were conservative." Cataclysm of 10th May causing Athans to reconsider his job as guide.


expid: EVER96116
peakid: EVER
year: 1996
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Henry Todd
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Everest Expedition
countries: Australia, Denmark, Sweden, USA
bcdate: 1996-04-09
smtdate: 1996-05-10
termdate: 1996-05-23
termnote: Abandoned due to continous bad weather
othersmts: Attempted Lhotse (LHOT-961-01)
campsites: BC(09/04),C1(12/04,5960m),C2(15/04,6400m),C3(22/04,7300m),C4(10/05,7900m),xxx(10/05,7900m)
accidents: None
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 just below top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col
  High point at South Col.

  10th May five members and five Sherpas arrived at Col between 7:00 am and 8:00 pm, very wind and snowing vertically. Pfetzer and Ratcliffe plus the 5 Sherpas descended to C2 on 11th while other 3 stayed another night, even stronger winds and then down on 12th. 

  Same climbers went up to C3 on hope of trying for top, but Todd took cautious stand of not risking lives in continuing bad weather.


expid: LHOT96101
peakid: LHOT
year: 1996
route1: W Face
nation: UK
leaders: Henry Todd
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Everest Expedition
ascent1: 35th
countries: Denmark, Kazakhstan, New Zealand
bcdate: 1996-04-09
smtdate: 1996-05-17
smttime: 1746
othersmts: Attempted Everest (EVER-961-16)
campsites: BC(09/04),C2(6400m),C3(7300m),Smt(17/05)
accidents: None
achievment: Fast ascent by Boukreev
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Jorgensen and Boukreev were only members who actually went for Lhotse summit. Went from Everest C3 (at 7300m). Jorgensen left C3 at 6:00 am of 17th climbed into couloir and at top of couloir, 50 vertical meters from top, turned back at 5:40 pm because was cold, strong wind and no fixed rope in place and wanted to go down in day light; down to sleep in C3 at 9:00 pm about 2 hours before Boukreev arrived.

  Boukreev: although he was very tired from Everest crisis of 10th-11th May and work as guide, he decided to try to summit Lhotse. Left BC at 8:30 pm on 16th May, took an hours rest in C2 drinking tea, left C2 12:30 am on 17th, arrived at C3 at 4:30 am, rested, left C3 at 8:00 am, climbed up couloir where there were many old ropes; wind started up while he was in couloir; reached 5-10 meters below summit at 5:46 pm on 17th; stopped just below highest point because could not stand up safely against wind. Slept in C3.


  Duff - 30 May 1996 

  Horrex and Jones were the only members of his expedition (who were on Henry Todd's Lhotse permit) who made for Lhotse, but they got no higher than C3 on West Face around 21-23 April, developed bronchial chest infection and went down to BC. They started up again on 6th May, reached C3 on 8th, spent 2 nights there, got same infection and went down again. No Sherpas climbed with them, but 2 Sherpas pitched their C3 tents in mid-April (Sherpas did not sleep there). Trueman and Duff did not attempt to reach C3 on Lhotse Face.


expid: EVER96105
peakid: EVER
year: 1996
route1: S Plr-S Col-SE Ridge (up); S Col-Lhot W Face (down)
nation: Spain
leaders: Jose Antonio Martinez
sponsor: Spaniards on Swedish Everest permit
ascent1: 242 w/Swe
bcdate: 1996-04-03
smtdate: 1996-05-23
smttime: 1300
termdate: 1996-05-27
campsites: BC(03/04,5400m),C1(15/04,6000m),C2(17/04,6500m),C3(11/05,7600m),C4(02/05,7800),Smt(23/05)
accidents: None
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  17th May Jesus and Kropp BC to C2. 18th C2 to C4 and they made new C4. 19th stayed C4 to wait for good weather without winds. 20th to C2 because of strong wind. 21st rested C2. 22nd up to C4 in good weather by Jesus, Kropp and (at Kropp's invitation) Ang Rita together via Pillar again. 22nd slept in C4 5 hours and left C4 23rd 01:30 hrs to go to summit and back to C4 - arrived at summit 13:00 hours together, not long after Renard and his 2 Sherpas and then IMAX (Breashears) team - good weather but on summit little wind and cold. 24th slept in C2 and 25th BC. Paid Duff to wax his fixed rope 7000 to 7800m.

  Ang Rita carried loads for Kropp's photographers and then stayed on for Kropp and his video camera - for summit day, 23rd, Martinez shared half of Ang Rita's pay.

  "No good weather" - only 1-3 May good weather 2/3 May midnight Jesus Martinez and Kropp went from C4 for summit (Antonio stayed C4 because had not good distance vision and bad cough); reached 8400m together; at 8400m Jesus Martinez decided 11:00 am now too late for summit in hip-deep snow and slow progress (now on SE Ridge route since 8100m) so he turned back and reached C4 at 2:00 pm. Goran went on up alone this day (3 May) to 8700m, little below S Summit, at 2:00 pm and then he too to C4 (at 6:00 pm) very tired. 4th May two brothers C4 to BC while Kropp stayed at C4 still very tired; reached BC 6th May (slept C2 5th May). 9th May 2 brothers to C2 (Kropp not); 11th May to C3; 12th Nay to 7800m but very windy and tent at C4 already gone with wind; not possible to continue so down to BC same day and for Antonio climb finished; he left BC 14th May while Jesus stayed at BC with Kropp and Malcolm Duff members hoping to try for top on 21st May via South Col.


expid: PUMO96102
peakid: PUMO
year: 1996
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: UK-US Lhotse-Pumori Expedition
ascent1: 108,109 w/Grk,111
countries: Canada, France, UK
bcdate: 1996-04-12
smtdate: 1996-04-28
smttime: 1300
othersmts: Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-961-02)
campsites: BC(12/04,5300m),ABC(01/05,5600m),C1(15/04,5950m),C2(20/04,6500m),Smt(28-29/04,19/05)
accidents: Nothing except Bailey kidney problem
agency: Everest Parivar
primid: LHOT96102
routememo:
  BC  at normal site at lake
  ABC placed for weaker members
  C2  pitched by Dan Mazur (just below Col).

  Pearson and Manduit went to top from C1. Left C1 at 4:15 am on 28 April and were on summit at 1:00 pm. Next day Mazur summited with Greek team from C2, which he had pitched on 28th April.

  Dean James claims he left C2 at 9:00 pm on 18th and reached summit at 1:00 am of the 18th (Mazur and Proctor don't doubt).


expid: LHOT96102
peakid: LHOT
year: 1996
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: UK-US Lhotse-Pumori Expedition
ascent1: 34th,36th,37th
countries: France, UK
bcdate: 1996-05-03
smtdate: 1996-05-10
smttime: 1400
othersmts: Climbed Pumori (PUMO-961-02)
campsites: BC(03/05,5400m),C2(05/05,6400m),C3(08/05),C4(09/05,7800m),Smt(10,22-23/05)
accidents: Nothing serious
achievment: 1st French woman atop Lhotse
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  BC lower than many
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4A in uncomfortable site so moved camp.

  First to Pumori on Mazur's expedition and reached top on 28th April with Pearson. Then to Everest/Lhotse BC for Lhotse climb on Mazur's Lhotse expedition. Spent 2 days in C2 because lot of wind. [Pearson] with Steve Koch and Tim Horvath to C3 8 May. 9 May then went to 7800m and pitched C2 there and slept there. 10th Pearson and Horvath very cold so they did not go for top but Chantal did climbing alone (no Sherpas on this expedition), reached top at 2:00 pm or so, about 6 hours after leaving C4; very cold and very windy but Mauduit very warmly clothed; took photos at top (did not go to top of cornice, stopped 5 to 10m below it, but is sure she reached this height. Took 2 ice axes to be safe. Slept that night in C3 not needing to use headlamp because could come down fixed ropes, but was dark when reached C3 at 7:00 pm or so. Down to BC with fall into pool of water in icefall and lost way; arrived very tired maybe 8:00 pm. Used no oxygen at all.

  Ed Viesturs, Breashears Everest climbing leader 3 June 96: 

  Viesturs saw Mauduit go into gully and return so soon as to cast doubt on her having gone to top; her sponsors would be pressing hard for her to succeed since her failure on Everest last year [and before]. 

  BUT

  Pratt - 26 May 98 

  Viesturs account of Mauduit's not summitting Lhotse is "dead rubbish." She was climbing with 2 others and they saw her go into couloir at 10:00 am. Viesturs may have seen two go into cloud and one must have been Dave Sharman from Pratt's team who was also wearing yellow jacket. Chantal was back in C4 at 5:30 pm in cloudy weather and Pratt and Sharman were in C4 then. She described route in unusual snow conditions which Pratt found 10 days later and he took same amount of time as she.


  10th May Chantal made summit push from C4A at 8:30 am (this confirmed by others in camp) and reported she summited [see Mauduit on Return form] and the times are within realm of possible and she went fast to C4A and wind tends to push one up couloir. 11th May Pratt and Sharman went for top but turned back at 8000m. 21st May Mazur and Shaw from C4B to 7900m at 1:00 pm arrived too late and tired. 22 May Pratt and Darsney from C4B to very top of cornice and took photos at 3:30 pm and 4:00 pm respectively and back to C4B. 23 May Mazur alone to just below cornice, about 5m below top at 4:30 pm; started from C3 at 2:00 am and next to C3 at 11:45 pm (not to C4B because tent had been removed) couloir really easy although old fixed ropes helpful.


expid: EVER96128
peakid: EVER
year: 1996
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Sonam Gyaljen Sherpa
sponsor: Everest Clean Up Expedition - Spring 1996
bcdate: 1996-05-03
termnote: Permit only allowed ascent to S Col for clean-up
campsites: BC(03/05,5400m),C2(05/06,6750m),xxx(7900m)
accidents: Ongchu Lama seriously injured by stonefall on his head
agency: Nepal Mountaineering Assoc
routememo:
  C2 in W Cwm
  High point at South Col.

  Brought male body wrapped in plastic bag and cremated in 2 days struck below BC - brought from just below C2.

  Collected 2000 kg of rubbish from mountain, half of it from Col (ropes, stoves, gas, oxygen ,bottles, empty tins, tent poles) from C1 ladders and from C2 same item at from Col. At least 15,000 kg rubbish still at Col; C1, C2 and C3 now are cleared unless items under snow - at least 10 bodies are still there from just below Col to top.


expid: EVER96120
peakid: EVER
year: 1996
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Koji Yamazaki
sponsor: Rissho University Alpine Club Everest Expedition 1996
ascent1: 233,239
bcdate: 1996-04-13
smtdate: 1996-05-17
smttime: 1210
termdate: 1996-05-27
campsites: ChineseBC(13/04),ABC(15/04,6300m),C4(01/05,7000m),C5(15/05,7800m),C6(16/05,8300m),Smt(17,21/05)
accidents: Yamazaki one frostbitten finger
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  C1 at North col
  C2 on North Ridge
  C3 on North face below NE Ridge.

  Summit team left C6 at 6:17 am, reached top Chinese time at 12:10 pm and returned to C3 at 3:47 pm; Pemba Tshering slept in C1 7:30 pm and others, Nga Temba to ABC at 9:30 pm and Takeuchi at 11:30 pm (Nga to ABC because had no sleeping bag in C1). 

  21 May Yamazaki alone from C3 and reached summit 6:00 pm and bivouacked at 8600m 9:00 pm (below 2nd Step); slept night of 22nd at C3; ABC on 24th.

  Sherpas:
    Nga Temba (aka Na Temba - one of 2 Ngas from Kharikhola), 1956,
      scaled Everest 3 times before
    Pemba Tshering, 1943, Thamo, scaled 3 other 8000m peaks


expid: EVER96130
peakid: EVER
year: 1996
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Hans Kammerlander
sponsor: Kammerlander Everest Ski Expedition
ascent1: 243
bcdate: 1996-05-17
smtdate: 1996-05-24
smttime: 0935
othersmts: Xixabangma
campsites: ChineseBC(17/05,5200m),ABC(19/05,6400m),C1(23/05,7000m),Smt(24/05)
accidents: None
achievment: Fastest ascent and normal trip and 1st ski descent from summit
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  High point at North Ridge.

  23 May 5:00 pm 4 left ABC for North Col arrived 8:00 pm; 22nd 2 Sherpas had gone to Col and on 23rd they went to 7700m with tent and food and pitched tent there. After an hours rest at Col, Kammerlander left Col at 9:00 pm and joined Sherpas at 7700m at 11:30 pm. 1:30 am of 24th Kammerlander left tent and went non-stop to summit with 1 pair skis, 1 liter tea, headlamp and spare batteries; no food, no reserve clothing or other covering. Arrived at top at 9:35 am. From 8500m to 8600m felt like drunk and from 8600m was much better with fresh wind and warmer: "super day." Summit panorama "unimaginably beautiful," despite being tired immensely. Great Couloir not possible to ski down because all rock and ice so descended normal route which had ascended. Other 3 members stayed at Col to film and take still pictures Kammerlander and went down from Col when Kammerlander did. Kammerlander could not ski some rock sections: did not ski about vertical 250 m total. Left summit 10:30 am 24th and arrived ABC about 4:30 pm with few rests of 10-30 minutes each including tea at Sherpas tent at 7700m an at Col camp. "Not so fine" passing Indian bodies at 8500m, 8550m and 8600m. Doesn't claim solo ascent since others were on mountain and used others fixed ropes. Claims fastest ascent and round trip and possible first ascent of highest and lowest 8000m in same climb. Had reached Xixabangma on summit on 9th May alone, one day after others from his team had gone to same top, which was not highest.

  Skis weighed 1 kg each complete; 1m 60cm long

  *  left ABC 23 May at 5:00pm
       on smt 24 May at 9:45am
  back in ABC 24 May at 4:30pm

  Total time elapsed 23 hrs 30 minutes


expid: EVER96109
peakid: EVER
year: 1996
route1: NE Ridge-N Ridge-N Face (up); N Ridge-N Col (down)
nation: Russia
leaders: Sergei Antipine
sponsor: Krasnoyarsk Everest Expedition Spring 1996
ascent1: 238
bcdate: 1996-04-05
smtdate: 1996-05-20
smttime: 1510
termdate: 1996-05-29
accidents: Semikolenov 2 frostbitten toes but will heal; no serious accident or serious illness
achievment: New route
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  ChineseBC(05/04,5200m),ABC(11/04,6400m),C1(20/04,7000m),C2(02/05,7400m),C3(17/05,8000m),C4(18/05,8300m),Smt(20/05)

routememo:
  C1 below small couloir and rock wall just below
  C2 beginning of couloir above rock wall
  C3 in couloir - no fixed tent
  C4 site of normal route's C4 (or C6 by some counting).

  Fixed ropes 2000m from bergschrund (6700m) to C3 (8000m). From C4 alpine-style push for summit 18th May by Zakharov, Bakaleinikov, Kohanov, Bekassov, Kouznetsov, Semikolenov at 11:00 am Chinese time and reached top of couloir (65 degree+) at 8200-8300m where Bakaleinikov, Bekassov, Kouznetsov traversed to normal route's C3 while other 4 slept at top in bivouac (C1 and C2 had already been pitched and some supplies left in them). 19th May all six men slept in C4 (normal route C3). 20th May 6 men started for top: Kouznetsov at 8:00 am and other 5 men at 9:00 am; Bekassov turned back 8400m very cold; Kouznetsov on top at 15:10; Kohanov and Semikolenov on top at 17:00; Zakharov and Bakaleinikov reached 8800m at 18:00 hours and thence back because too late and snowing so hard couldn't see way ahead and strong wind (weather like 10th May storm); all 5 back to 8300m at 23:00 hrs and all 6 slept there. Descended normal route and slept at North Col in Hungarian tent. Kouznetsov, Semikolenov and Zakharov and other 3 in ABC. Climb finished since goal of climbing new route had been achieved.

  Couloir difficult rock with no place for screws at 65-70 degrees and snow 40 not so bad.

  9 June 96 - route went up a couloir between North and NE Ridge to North Ridge to North Face. This is same couloir which was attempted in spring 1994 by new Zealand, etc. team led by Russell Brice, but was up left (east) sick of this couloir rather than up its center, where Brice team climbed. Russians then decended via normal route.


expid: EVER96118
peakid: EVER
year: 1996
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Simon Lowe
sponsor: Himalayan Kingdoms Expeditions 1996
ascent1: 237
countries: Netherlands, Norway, USA
bcdate: 1996-04-10
smtdate: 1996-05-19
termdate: 1996-05-26
campsites: ChineseBC(10/04,5200m),ABC(17/04,6400m),C1(27/04,7000m),C2(16/05,7800m),C3(18/05,8300m),Smt(19/05)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Amtrek
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C2 on North Ridge
  C3 on North Face.

  "It is easy with oxygen" - could enjoy view from C3. It's a walk to 8300m and a rock climb above where necessary to be competent clinber. 

  1st summit team to North Col 15th May: Hinkes, Blessed, Dickinson and T. Hooft plus 4 Sherpas. 16 May up to C2 but Blessed turned back while still on snow slope because moving too slowly and other members down with him to North Col. 

  17th Hinkes and Dickinson went up to C2. 18th made C3 and 19th summit by Hinkes, Dickinson and 3 Sherpas, Lhakpa Gelu, Mingma Dorje and Phurba Gyalzen. 

  20th Dhillon and Lowe tried for top, reached 8400m when weather deteriorated and decided to retreat.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Gelu, Kharikhola, 29, Everest twice before       
    Mingma Dorje, Kharikhola, 32, this his first 8000m 
    Fur Geljen, Kharikhola, Passport DOB 3/8/1966, he says Dec 1966


expid: EVER96114
peakid: EVER
year: 1996
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Norway
leaders: Jon Gangdal
sponsor: Chomolungma International Expedition 1996
ascent1: 234,236
countries: Czech Republic, Italy
bcdate: 1996-04-07
smtdate: 1996-05-17
smttime: 1010
termdate: 1996-05-21
campsites: ChineseBC(07/04,5200m),ABC(11/04,6450),C1(20/04,7060),C2(15/05,7800m),C3(16/05,8300m),Smt(17-18/05)
accidents: Arnesen vision affected by altitude and couldn't go up
agency: Rolwaling Trek
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C2 on North Ridge
  C3 on North Face.

  No camps above Col slept in till summit push, but camps established from 28th April (C2). 1st summit party left C3 at 3:50 am, reached top 10:10 am (with Indians) and returned to C3 at 1:00 pm. 2 Norwegians slept at Col and Sherpas to ABC same day. 2nd summit team followed day behind and on top at 1:15 pm and slept in C3 (now without oxygen because gave his 2 bottles to fatally sick Austrian with Hungarians, Reinhard Wlasich).

  Sherpas:  
    Dawa Tashi, Beding, atop Everest 4 times before, Cho Oyu once
    Dawa Tshering, Beding, atop Everest 2 times before, Cho Oyu twice
    Gyalbu, Beding, atop Everest 2 times before, Cho Oyu once


  Personal View [by Morten Rostrup, published in British Medical Journal, 3 Jan 1998)

  Mount Everest: A Deadly Playground 

  On 11 May 1997 five climbers died during their descent from Mount Everest on the North Ridge. Exactly one year and one day earlier eight people died during a storm below the summit. Seven more died later the same year, making 1996 the worst ever on Everest. As a doctor on a Norwegian Everest expedition, I partly witnessed and partly took part in rescue operations on the north side of the mountain where four climbers died. This was my sixth expedition to the Himalayas and my 12th to mountains above 5000m. The incidents illustrate important medical and ethical aspects of high altitude climbing, and should be considered carefully by expedition doctors.

  On 10 May 1996 three Indian climbers were overtaken by bad weather close to the summit and did not make it back to the camp that night. Early next morning five climbers from another expedition headed for the summit. They met the first Indian climber alive on the North Ridge below the most difficult part of the climb, the Second Step. He was reported to be moving slowly downwards. Despite obvious need for help, the team continued and met his two fellow climbers above the Second Step, still alive, but suffering from altitude sickness, exhaustion and hypothermia. They were considered more or less beyond rescue. The team continued and reached the summit about 10 am. On their way back they verified the death of one of the Indians. They could not see the second man, but assumed that he had fallen down the North Face. The third climber was still alive further down the ridge. Too exhausted to give any help the climbers passed him by for a second time. A few hours later he died alone.
   
  At the same time two members of a mixed expedition, climbers from different countries who did not know each other beforehand, left a third member alone in his tent at 7800m. He was suffering from cerebral edema, but his fellow climbers did not realise his condition, and they themselves were exhausted and suffering from frostbite and severe retinal hemorrhage after an unsuccessful summit attempt without supplementary oxygen. The condition of the climber in the tent deteriorated and a rescue operation had to be arranged. The members of his expedition were, however, reluctant to help him, probably because such an exhaustive operation would reduce their own chances of reaching the summit. After being urged by our expedition leader, they brought him down. He was now also suffering from pulmonary edema and severe frostbite, and was lucky to survive.


expid: EVER96124
peakid: EVER
year: 1996
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Greece
leaders: Kostas Tsivelekas
sponsor: Hellenic Everest Expedition
countries: Bulgaria
bcdate: 1996-04-17
smtdate: 1996-05-01
termdate: 1996-05-14
termnote: Abandoned on 11 May due to lack of time and bad weather
campsites: ChineseBC(17/04),ABC(21/04,6450m),C1(30/04,7000m),C2(01/05,7800m),xxx(01/05,8000m)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  1 May Tsivelekas alone to 8000m and down to C1. Other 2 who also placed C2 also did not sleep there and all to ABC. 10 May Kanidis and Theoharopoulos to C1, 11 May Kanidis to C2 enroute to top but Sherpas didn't go to C2 to set up camp, no oxygen there, very cold and windy so down to ABC and climb finished because yaks called for 13th and had some health problems though others would have been in support of Kanidis if he had gone higher.


expid: EVER96125
peakid: EVER
year: 1996
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Massimo Lugli
sponsor: Everest 1996 Old Treks
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 1996-04-17
smtdate: 1996-05-18
termdate: 1996-05-21
termnote: Abandoned on 18 May due to no climbing strength left and strong winds
campsites: ChineseBC(17/04),ABC(23/04,6400m),C1(01/05,7000m),C2(04/05,7700m),xxx(18/05,8000m)
accidents: None on mountain except Bassoli never got above 6000m because not acclimatizing
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Slept in C1 at North Col
  C2 on North Ridge.

  Were delayed in making summit bid by having to go to the rescue of Andres Delgado, Mexican climbing with Peter Kowalzik, but on same commercial permit. Lost a period of good weather and were tired by this effort; finished rescue work on 14th May. On 17th May Benet climbed from C2 for 2 hours, reached about 7900m (Chinese time) turned back. On 18th Verzaroli and Sala left C2 at 6:30 am, reached 8000m at 10:00 am and also turned back: were still tired from rescue effort, going slowly, were not using oxygen and winds were strong; there was no tent for them at 8200m to get into. Yaks were ordered for 21st at ABC for departure.

  Those most involved in rescue were Galbiati, Verzaroli and Sala.


expid: EVER96127
peakid: EVER
year: 1996
route1: N Col-N Ridge-N Face (Great Couloir)
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Viki Groselj
sponsor: Slovenian Everest Ski Expedition
countries: Croatia
bcdate: 1996-04-22
smtdate: 1996-05-09
termdate: 1996-05-16
termnote: Abandoned on 11 May due to Karnicar frostbite
campsites: ChineseBC(22/04),ABC(28/04,6450m),C1(30/04,7000m),C2(08/05,7800m),xxx(09/05,8200m)
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C2 halfway between North Ridge and Great Couloir
  High point in Great Couloir.

  9th May Karnicar from C2 to Great Couloir alone at 7900m and up C1 Couloir to 8200m; waited for Sherpas to join him there from C2 also, but weather got bad (fog, very cold, wind) and Sherpas didn't arrive with C3 gear but turned back before Couloir. Karnicar waited 3 hours, saw 2 fingers frozen and quickly descended to BC at 7:30 pm. Had hoped to go up again but fingers too badly frostbitten to do so. Point of expedition was his ski descent and its properly being documented film.

accidents:
  1 altitude sick Sherpa; Karnicar frostbitten finger on left hand (will lose all of little finger and half of next one)


expid: EVER96121
peakid: EVER
year: 1996
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Taiwan
leaders: Tsai Fong-Bin
sponsor: Taiwanese Everest Expedition
bcdate: 1996-04-13
smtdate: 1996-04-29
termdate: 1996-05-12
termnote: Abandoned on 11 May due to inability to open and use oxygen bottles for summit push and high winds
accidents: Nothing except very slight frostbite
agency: Surya Travel
campsites:
  ChineseBC(13/04),ABC(19/04,6500m),C4(28/04,7000m),xxx(29/05,8300m),C5(10/05,7800-7900m),xxx(11/05,8000m)

routememo:
  Left C5 too late (11:00 am) on 11 May and could get to only 8000m when 12:00 noon winds getting strong and turned back and slept again in C5. Intended reaching C6 at 8300m. Sherpas couldn't open oxygen bottles so members unable to use oxygen above C5. All 5 Sherpas reached 8300m and made C6 there 29 April but C6 was never slept in. 8000m reached 11th by all three members and Gyalzen Sherpa, Pemba Tshering, Pasang Tshering, Dawa and Pemba Geljen Sherpas.

  Oxygen: used 5 bottles of oxygen sleeping in C5, but unable to open 17 other bottles to go to C6 and top; other bottles different kind (both kinds Russian).


expid: EVER96117
peakid: EVER
year: 1996
route1: W Rongbuk Glacier-N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Joan Cardona
sponsor: Conmarques de Girona Everest 1996
bcdate: 1996-04-09
smtdate: 1996-05-20
termdate: 1996-05-24
termnote: Abandoned on 20 May due to bad weather, climbers tired
accidents: Maso thought heart attack and left for KTM - not heart, returned to BC and C1 only
agency: Thamserku Trekking
campsites:
  ChineseBC(09/04),ABC(14/04,5500m),C1(23/04,5800m),C2(03/05,6400m),C3(09/05,7000m),C4(10/05,7600m),xxx(20/05,7800m)

routememo:
  Chinese BC at west moraine Rongbuk Glacier
  C1 at moraine
  C2 on small plateau below North Col
  C3 at North Col
  C4 on North Ridge (never slept in).

  C4 pitched 10th May but strong winds and did not sleep there but went North Col and next day to BC. 18th May to C2, 19 May to C3. 20 May three members alpine-style attempt to reach top from Col to 7500m and other 2 same high point at 7800m [then stopped] because of strong wind and clouds (and no oxygen and Sherpas) and back to BC where snowing in evening. 

  Oxygen not used "for ethics." Needed and used skis up and down section of route below C3 to cross crevasses. Were alone on West Rongbuk Glacier; all other teams camped on east side of North Col. 

  Only 2 members wanted to go to Great Couloir, but outvoted by other 5; but because of [original] plan to go to couloir pitched BC on West Rongbuk Glacier.


expid: EVER96126
peakid: EVER
year: 1996
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Peter Kowalzik
sponsor: International Mountain Climbing (IMC) Everest Expedition 1996
ascent1: 244
countries: Austria, Mexico
bcdate: 1996-04-17
smtdate: 1996-05-24
smttime: 1344
termdate: 1996-05-27
campsites: ChineseBC(17/04,5200m),ABC(20/04,6470m),C1(27/04,7000m),C2(08/05,7800m),C3(09/05,8250m),Smt(24/05)
accidents: Delgado pulmonary and cerebral edema and badly frostbitten toes (may lose end of one toe)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C2 on North Ridge
  C3 on North Face.

  10th May Kowalzik and Rohrmoser left C3 8250m to go to top and reached bottom of 2nd Step (8600m) and back down all the way to C2 7800m (Kowalzik was quite confused when Ponce Le Leon talked to him on 11th). Delgado had slept at C3 and on 10th to C2 because very weak from altitude (Ponce de Leon was at ABC resting from load carrying to 7800m). 11th May Kowalzik and Rohrmoser, arrived at ABC at 4:00 pm (Chinese time) having left Delgado at C2: told Ponce de Leon that Delgado acting very strangely. Ponce de Leon immediately went up to C2, leaving ABC at 5:30 pm alone hoping to find him at C1 (7000m-North Col) reached C1 at 8:30 pm but Delgado not in their tent. Norwegians were there and calmed him down and helped him to realize it was senseless for him to continue up during night against very strong winds. 12th May left at 7:30 am in terrible winds and took 6 hours (crawling on rock, standing up in snow) to reach C2; Delgado not in their tent but was 20m lower in Norwegian tent in bad shape alone, weak couldn't lift his head. Ponce de Leon gave him injection for cerebral edema, and managed to crawl to the British tent and Ponce de Leon put him on British oxygen and now better. 13th at 12:30 pm still bad winds and met Italian rescue team with Contreras about 200m below C2 at 2:00 pm (Delgado very slow, still on oxygen); all to ABC on 14th; Kowalzik and Rohrmoser at ABC.

  When you're on lifts team, margin for error zero - no resources when in trouble, going to need help from other expeditions when 2 members walk away from a man in trouble. No oxygen, no Sherpas with this expedition.

  Ponce de Leon to BC on 15th from where Delgado escorted to KTM on 16th by Kowalzik and Rohrmoser. Contreras stayed at ABC.

  21 May 2 remaining Mexicans left ABC, both now taking oxygen for the climb - reached North Col on 21st; 22nd to C2 from which someone had removed (probably by mistake by British Sherpa) but found abandoned in Japanese tent at 7600m and used it. 23rd up to C3. 24th started to use oxygen; left camp at 8:00 am and 8:30 am and got to top at 13:44 (Contreras) and 14:40 (Ponce de Leon) in incredible weather, no wind, no clouds, not cold; down to C3 at 20:30 and stayed there; used no oxygen while in camp.

  *Italin rescue team from Lugli's expedition and actually 2 Italians and a Swiss.

  May 10th Kowalzik and Rohrmoser without oxygen tried for top and reached bottom of 2nd Step (8650m). Left C3 7:00 am (Chinese time) after having tried to go up earlier in dark and could not find their way so back to C3 till daylight. From same good old ropes and Kowalzik know way to 1st Step from '91 - reached 2nd Step 1:00 pm but by then strong, very cold wind had started and decided they could reach top but risk too great that would have very bad frostbite "at minimum" so started down at 1:15 pm and returned to C2. 

  Indians started to follow then very late at 10:00 am (Indians using oxygen) and met just below 1st Step at about 3:00. 1 Indian who said maybe he would go on to top; 4 more Indians met at about 8400m below North Ridge at 4:00 pm and said training with oxygen masks but not going to top (not properly clothed for summit); however 2 of them went on up (names not known). Surely none of Indians reached summit because of bad weather, no fixed ropes and late hour, but on 11th Japanese and Sherpas passed 3 live Indians on way to summit but did nothing to rescue them. Kowalzik talked to Japanese, Sherpas who said 3 Indians were still alive but too close to death to be able to help them this despite fact many oxygen bottles lying at 1st and 2nd Steps.

  Kowalzik and Rohrmoser returned to C2 at 8:00 and 9:00 pm. Kowalzik summit day got frostbitten nose and next day frostbitten fingers but all will heal. Delgado was in last camp with Kowalzik and Rohrmoser but did not try for top and on 10th May down to C2; that night Rohrmoser started to get blind from both eyes from altitude and all 3 very tired; Kowalzik could not keep anything inside himself; 11 May still strong wind and cold but Kowalzik and Rohrmoser had to go on down so Kowalzik and Rohrmoser left camp at 8:30 and 7:30 am while Delgado stayed to finish cooking and to follow them 1/2-1 hour later. Wind so strong couldn't stand up but managed to get down to 7400m where winds abated, rested at North Col and reached ABC at 3:00 pm. Delgado never came. 11th evening Ponce Del Leon, his friend, went up to meet and help him if necessary and if not necessary and go on to top. 12th May reached Delgado at 2:00 pm in C2 tent of Norwegian expedition waiting for better weather but now near death; Ponce de Leon borrowed oxygen from British. All of this team knew risk to go without oxygen and Sherpas. 12 May expedition doctor and 3 Italians went up to meet 2 Mexicans; reached North Col 8:00 pm using British oxygen (3 big Russian bottles used); 14th down ABC in 3 hours at 2:00 pm; at ABC many doctors treated for pulmonary edema and frozen toes; 15th 3 yak drivers for Greeks came to ABC and drivers carried Delgado to midway to BC, yaks from there got him to BC and same evening drove to Tingri; 16 May to Kathmandu and CIWEC clinic, where doctor told will not lose toes; leaves KTM 19th May (so do Kowalzik and Rohrmoser). Hector and Doctor trying for top about 21-2 May, doctor using oxygen he brought in KTM.

  *Italians were from Lugli expedition: Aedo Verzoroli (actually Swiss), Battista Galbiati and Filippo Sala.


expid: EVER96112
peakid: EVER
year: 1996
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Goetz Wiegand
sponsor: First Saxony Mount Everest Expedition
countries: UK
bcdate: 1996-04-06
smtdate: 1996-05-25
termdate: 1996-06-02
termnote: Abandoned at 8500m due to lack of bottled oxygen and too long on mountain
accidents: Mueller altitude sickness
agency: None
campsites:
  ChineseBC(06/04,5200m),ABC(12/04,6350m),C1(16/04,7000m),C2(26/04,7800m),C3(24/05,8300m),xxx(25/05,8500m)

routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C2 on North Ridge
  C3 on North face
  High point on North Face.

  Could not get to C3 before 24 May because of no oxygen and strong winds so C3 tent to be taken only for rest and cooking there for few hours if only. On 25th reached 8500m - had not gone to top on 24th helping at C2 Japanese very sick and needed care. On 24th evening climbed to C3 early morning and stayed few hours and then tried for top but turned back at 8500m because with no bottled oxygen and had stayed too long on mountain and too long at C2 helping Japanese. Climb finished.

  Oxygen taken only for medical use and used only by Japanese.


expid: EVER96122
peakid: EVER
year: 1996
route1: N Col-N Face (Great Couloir) (to 8300m)
route2: N Col-N Face (Great Couloir)-N Ridge (to 8250m)
nation: Hungary
leaders: Sandor Nagy
sponsor: Hungarian Everest Expedition
countries: Austria
bcdate: 1996-04-13
smtdate: 1996-05-07
termdate: 1996-05-28
termnote: Abandoned at 8250m due to bad weather and member death
achievment: 1st Hungarian attempt on Everest
agency: None
campsites:
  ChineseBC(13/04),ABC(19/04,6400m),C1(24/04,7000m),C2(01/05,7820m),xxx(07/05,8300m),Indian.C3(17/05,8250m)

routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C2 very near North Ridge
  C3 on North face (normal route).

  Reinhard Wlasich, Akos Koncz and Zsolt Eross started from C1 on May 1; Koncz not feeling well and turned back while other 2 reached and pitched C2. 2 May they down to ABC and rested. 

  5 May from ABC same 3 men and Mrs Elizabeth Wlasich and went to C1. 6 May 3 men started up from C1 but Koncz and Reinhard Wlasich both not well and strong wind: Zsolt Eross reached C2 alone. 7 May Zsolt made traverse to Great Couloir and reached 8300m in couloir and found old tents too badly damaged to use and dug snowhole for night. 8 May down to C1 to sleep and 9 May to ABC. 

  Next serious climb was 14 May from ABC by Zsolt and Reinhard and reached C2 on 15 May. Slovenians had left 5 bottles oxygen in Great Couloir, so these 2 had bought oxygen masks from Slovenians, so 16 May they again traversed to Couloir to find and use oxygen but didn't find them (Sherpa maybe moved them) and same day back to C2. 17 May the two went to Indians' C3 and used their tent there at about 8250m. 18 May decided to stay in C3 because bad weather and not in good condition and at 2:00 pm Reinhard became seriously ill (both pulmonary and cerebral edema) and died 1:45 am despite oxygen and medicine from Norwegian doctor coming down from summit. Body left in C3 of Indians - morale low because of death. 

  31 May - after Wlasich's death no time and no strength and no more motivation to make fresh summit bid. Yaks ordered for 24th. No more climbing except to clean C2 and C1.


  S Gangdal- 22 May 96

  5 days before Austrian member died (Reinhard Wlasich) started from ABC for Col and 1 Hungarian having planned to climb without oxygen, but after member now fatigued asked other teams for oxygen. On 14 May left Col and J Gangdal got to 7800m and slept there with oxygen, went to Slovenian tent in Great Couloir but no oxygen there so went back to couloir 7800m and slept there - behaved strangely but on 16th went up to 8300m - no camp in 10 hours with Hungarian. 18th May was asked if he going to top and he said going rest (at 8300m without oxygen) and did. Norwegian doctor in summit team called by Hungarian member to see him and clearly badly affected by cerebral edema, doctor gave medicine and oxygen (given by Norwegians sleeping at 8300m and they therefore had none) which resulted in temperature improvement but during night died 18/19 May. Wife hours in ABC at this time (she may come to KTM with Norwegian on 23 May).

accidents:
  All members especially Balog brothers had altitude problems; no other serious problem except Wlasich death


expid: EVER96129
peakid: EVER
year: 1996
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Norbert Joos
sponsor: Swiss Everest North Face Expedition 1996
countries: Austria
bcdate: 1996-05-15
smtdate: 1996-05-19
termdate: 1996-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to winds and general lack of interest
othersmts: Climbed Xixabangma
campsites: ABC(15/05,6400m),xxx(19,22/05,7300m)
accidents: None
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  Joos and Ennemoser had depot above North Col but not slept there - too much wind, disturbed by rubbish at ABC and Col and not motivated to make real attempt. On 21 May decided to give up and go home, so on 22nd both members up to depot at 7300m to bring down gear left there.


  Ennemoser - 9 May 96

  Joos went to highest summit of Xixabangma on 1 May and Ennemoser to West summit (too dangerous to go to main).

  Bircher and Marugg too tired from Xixabangma to go now to Everest, so only Joos and Ennemoser will go, leaving 12 May. Not sure which route will climb since now only 2 members and no climbing Sherpas. Hope to reach summit 23 May and return KTM end May. 

  Later 9 May Joos confirmed above.


expid: EVER96110
peakid: EVER
year: 1996
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Mohinder Singh
sponsor: Indian ITBP Mount Everest (North Col) Expedition 1996
ascent1: 230 claimed,235
countries: Mongolia
bcdate: 1996-04-05
smtdate: 1996-05-10
smttime: 1010
termdate: 1996-05-27
accidents: 3 died on summit attempt
agency: Amtrek
campsites:
  BC(05/04,5200m),C1(5700m),C2(5800m),C3.ABC(10/04,6400m),C4(19/04,7040m),C5(03/05,7850m),C6(09/05,8320m),Smt(10,17/05)

routememo:
  There is doubt that 3 men actually reached summit on May 10. They probably stopped, thinking they were at top, at a bump or ledge at about 8700m and performed religious ceremony here instead. Sherpas with 11 May Japanese summiters noted items that were probably used in ceremony at this point and no footprints above it. Others on Everest at same time also expressed doubts on their return and ITBP's advisor at the time, Mohan S. Kohli, said a few months later he agreed the trio had not probably not summited, but since they had gotten to top and then died, there is no question of their claim's being retracted, Kohli said.

  The summit party of 10 May was delayed by strong winds, and the 7-man party left their highest camp only at 8:00 am (Indian time, or 8:15 NST). Four in this party turned back at 8500m because of the stormy weather and their exhaustion.

  ITBP orginally accused Japanese summiters of 11 May of not going to rescue of any Indian summiters who were still alive as mountaineering ethics require; this charge later withdrawn. Others on mountain saw a facing-saving device for Indians over deaths of their men [could also be result of culture conflict in which Japanese don't interfere if not asked to do so?].

  Indian summit success of 10th May very much doubted by:
    Taiwanese Leader
    Greeks
    Germans
    Neal Beidleman of Scott Fischer's team 
       (no one from South Col summiters saw anyone on north side)
    Peter Kowalzik - see on return notes of 18 May 
    Mohan S. Kohli

  Charges against Fukuoka Japanese a face-saving device making Japanese as scapegoats? Result of culture conflict in which Japanese don't interfere if not asked to do?

  11 May summit - Japanese Sherpas reported found at about 8700m found Lama flags and rock pitons for goods and no footprints above; at about 8700m is point that from North Col looks like summit.

  Source: Nawang Yanden, ABC sirdar of Fukuoka expedition - 21 May 96


  Captain Mohan Kohli - 5 Aug 96

  Kohli agrees that the Indian summit team of 10 May 96 probably did not reach top but stopped at ledge/flat area below it; but they reported they had gained summit and they are dead, so there is no question of retracting their summit claim.


  ITBP Everest: German Everest N Leader Wiegand and Urlass - 5 June 96

  Stingl and Joup competing to go to top as first Germans have been told by others who heard Indian radio conversation on that a deputy leader of ITBP told Indian summit team when they were at 2nd Step at 6 pm Chinese time to go on to top - doubtful they reached summit since they stll had quite some distance still to go.


  Neal Beidleman - 21 May 96  
  US (Fischer) Everest S summiter on 10 May 96

  It would greatly surprise us if any reached summit from North Face on May 10; no one could have summited after 5:00 pm Nepali time in horrendous weather; last summiter from Nepal to leave top was Lobsang Jangbu who left about 4:00 and no one from Nepal reported seeing anyone coming up. 

  [If summit claim is for 6:00 pm Chinese time = 3:45 Nepal time, claim is obviously not correct].


expid: EVER96107
peakid: EVER
year: 1996
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Katsutoshi Ikebe, Mitsuo Uematsu
sponsor: Fukuoka Qomolangma 1996 Expedition to Everest
ascent1: 231,232
approach: Some by road from Kathmandu->some from Lhasa
bcdate: 1996-04-04
smtdate: 1996-05-11
smttime: 1245
termdate: 1996-05-18
campsites: BC(04/04),ABC(14/04,6450m),C4(27/04,7020m),C5(10/05,8300m),Smt(11,13/05)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Rolwaling Trek
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C2 on North Ridge
  C3 on North Face below NE Ridge.

  1st summit bid was that of 11 May - left C3 at 4:00 am Shigekawa, Hanada, Pasang Tshering (Beding, Rolwaling) and Pasang Kami (Karikhola-Jubing) and Ang Gyalzen (Thami) and reached top together at 12:45 pm (ladder fixed by Nihon U Expedition 95') by all 5 men. Wind very strong but able to summit partly because on 10th had fixed 350m ropes above C3 and winds on north maybe not so strong as on south side; not much snowfall on 10th and 11 May on north side. Returned C3 at 5:00 pm and 2 men stayed at C3 and 3 Sherpas down to Col because no room at C3 (after a day they waiting for better weather).

  13 May to summit by Kikuchi and Sugiyama, Nima Dorje and Chuwang Nima & Dawa Tshering (Beding); left C3 3:30 am, on summit 9:15 am and all down to ABC at 8:30 pm. No more summit bids, weather not so good and members tired; if good weather, would have made 4 summit bids.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Tshering, Beding, atop Everest 2 times before, Cho-Oyu once
    Pasang Kami, Kharikhola, atop Everest 2 times before, Cho-Oyu once
    Ang Gyalzen, Thami, 32, this his first time atop Everest, summited Cho-Oyu 
      29/9  & 1/10/95 
    Nima Dorje, Beding, atop Everest 5 times before; also summited Lhotse, 
      Cho-Oyu, Makalu and Daulagiri I
    Chuwang Nima, Thami, atop Everest 2 times before
    Dawa Tshering, Thami atop Everest 1 time before


expid: MAKA96101
peakid: MAKA
year: 1996
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Vladimir Bachkirov
sponsor: Kuzbass Makalu Expedition
ascent1: 50th,51st
bcdate: 1996-04-07
smtdate: 1996-05-19
termdate: 1996-06-06
accidents: Nothing except fatal fall
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(07/04,4900m),BC(15/04,4900m),C1(17/04,5800m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3(03/05,7400m),C4(13/05,7700m),Smt(19,23/05)

routememo:
  BC at 25 minutes south of Barun Pokhari
  C1 at south end of Chago Glacier on west side
  C2 at middle of united Chago Glacier
  C3 at Makalu La.

  Had planned for all members to go to normal NW Ridge route and reach summit, but lost 10-12 days from accident on 14th May, the day before planned summit bid. Chlekht fell 300m from 7900m; no one saw him fall. Body found next morning; fell about 5:00-6:00 pm. No snow at the mountain, all very hard ice, so probably slipped, crampons perhaps not sharp enough; body left where he fell inside tent and covered him with snow blocks. Those of who were to get to top on 15th went down to BC. 

  All decided to continue expedition and another group started up from C1 and 19th 4 reached summit while 4 turned back 200m so from top; on top were Sokolov, Plotnikov, Kogemiako and Koroteev, all from C3 except Koreteev who started from C4. All in good health and returned from camps they had started from. Others six refused to climb now because of friends death and "their spirit was very low" (and one of six was Chlekht's widow). 

  Second summit party started up from BC on 19th and on 23rd on top from C3 via normal route, one [Savkov] using oxygen from C2 because he was tired, weak. This party were Bachkirov, Bogomolov, Foigt, Stalkovski, Vegner and Outchev and down to C3. 

  Now plan to rest 4-5 days and go to summit via West Face. On 31 May started from BC and reached 5800m on glacier on west side of Makalu; 1 June weather bad (snowing) and down to BC some days (stayed bad to 6 June) so did not go again on mountain. Expected to take 4-5 days to climb face and now no time; flight from KTM set for 8 June.

  18 members reached C3 during expedition.


  Bachkirov article in American Alpine Journal for 1997 says a summiter on 23 May was Outechev and Savkov not listed. On 19 April 1999 Abramov and Cherny of 1999 Spring Russian Cho Oyu expedition confirmed that this was correct; Savkov was not a high climber.


expid: MAK296101
peakid: MAK2
year: 1996
route1: Makalu La-S Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yasuyuki Shinno
sponsor: Makalu II Expedition
bcdate: 1996-05-01
smtdate: 1996-05-17
termdate: 1996-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to high winds, then no food left for later attempt
campsites: BC(01/05,5300m),C1(07/05,6000m),C2(13/05,6400m),xxx(17/05,7200m)
accidents: None
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at site for some Makalu teams ABC at south end of Chago Glacier
  High point below Makalu La.

  Could not reach site for C3 at Makalu La (7400m) because wind was very strong, so back to C2 17 May. Back to BC 18 May and climb finished. No food left. 

  Fixed rope between C1 and C2 (400m) and above C2 400m more.


expid: KANG96101
peakid: KANG
year: 1996
route1: N Face (nearly Scott's 1979 rte)
nation: Spain
leaders: Enrique-Julian De Pablo
sponsor: Basque Kangchenjunga 1996
ascent1: 46th
bcdate: 1996-04-01
smtdate: 1996-05-06
campsites: BC(01/04,5100m),C1(09/04,5800m),C2(21/04,6800m),C3(04/05,7800m),Smt(06/05)
accidents: De Pablo slight frostbite of toes (so turned back from summit bid)
achievment: Inurrategi's only brothers to have scaled more than one 8000er
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Pangpema (normal site)
  C3 on North Face.

  Waited a day in C3 for wind to drop which it did; much wind from South Face through Col. Route not very difficult technically. No sign of Chamoux, Royer or Rutkiewicz. Route very much snow as British (Scott) route in 1989, but from C3 to summit went to right slightly; essentially same. De Pablo was with other 3 members in summit push on 6 May, but toes getting cold and turned back at 8300m.


expid: NILC82101
peakid: NILC
year: 1982
route1: SE Face-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Ki-Heyg
sponsor: 1982 Korean Nilgiri Central Expedition
ascent1: 3rd
bcdate: 1982-04-12
smtdate: 1982-04-25
smttime: 1500
campsites: BC(12/04,4200m),C1(15/04,4800m),C2(19/04,5450m),C3(22/04,6150m),Smt(25/04)
accidents: Snow avalanche hit Kim, avalanche not so big no one seriously hurt
routememo:
  Route SE Face= 1979 Japanese route, face to ridge.
  2 icefalls: 1st 1000m high between C1 and C2 and 2nd 800m above C2.

  Above 2nd icefall is ice face requiring technical climbing. About 1200m fixed rope needed. First below summit very big crevasses.

  One snow avalanche hit Kim. Daily avalanches, not so big and no one seriously hurt.

  One member descending from top hurt ankle and stayed in C3 one week and will arrive KTM 22 May with other members; only leader in KTM now.

  No frostbite.

  Only one summit attack. Other 4 members gone trekking in east even before reaching BC because of disagreement.


  Kim - 17 March 82

  Route = SE Ridge - 1979 spring Japanese route
  7 members now in KTM, arrived 14 March
  25 March leave for Pokhara by bus
  15 days to BC via Lete and Ghasa, Thulibugin Pasa to BC at 4300m on North Annapurna Glacier
  3 camps above BC
  3 Sherpas above BC
  No oxygen 
  Summit 30 days after BC 


expid: PUMO81401
peakid: PUMO
year: 1981
route1: E Face-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Ned Gillette
sponsor: Camel Expedition 1981-82
ascent1: 13th
bcdate: 1981-12-12
smtdate: 1982-01-06
smttime: 1410
termdate: 1982-01-10
campsites: BC(12/12,5300m),ABC(12/12,5800m),C1(16/12,6300m),C2(05/01,6650m),Smt(06/01)
accidents: Craig altitude sickness
routememo:
  Bridwell - 15 Jan 1982

  29 Dec - Gillette and Bridwell climb to base of rope
  30 Dec - all 4 carry to ridge (ABC)
  31 Dec - all 4 rest at ABC, fixed ropes above ABC
  1 Jan - rest at ABC
  2 Jan - all 4 arrived at C1
  3 Jan - fixed rope and carried to C1
  4 Jan - all 4 wait out storm at C1 (snow and wind)
  5 Jan - 3 established C2 while Craig sick from altitude goes down to BC
  6 Jan - 3 C2 -> summit -> C2
  7 Jan - 3 to ABC 
  8 Jan - avalanche sweeps ABC at night - all at BC
  9 Jan - all leave BC. All left BC 10 Jan at end of climb
  Summit 6 Jan by Bridwell, Gillette and Reynolds
   
  New route up East Face-NE Ridge section probably same as Swiss.

  Summit at 2:10 pm and stayed 5 minutes. Had left C2 9:30 am and were back in C2 at 3:00 pm (Bridwell's hands and feet freezing) and at 5:00 pm (Gillette and Reynolds). No accident or frostbite. No oxygen with expedition.

  Climb was consistently more difficult than SE Ridge although SE Ridge has couple mere difficult pitches. A head well on East Face was 80 degrees steepness. Bridwell led all the way except on 1st push. Gillette led 600 feet on low down to BC. 5th-6th night biggest avalanche seen whole time on mountain came down and swept ABC area - big serac came away.
   
  Gillette and other 2 now going to Makalu area; expect be in KTM early Feb.


  Gillette - 2 Dec 81

  Going round Everest: in Nepal here permit to climb Pumori and trek permission in Makalu area. One month for Pumori. If don't succeed to get to top and thus to border, will go to Nup La (and might well not go to Nup La in any case). After climb, to Pheriche and pick cross country skis and thence one month sking to Makalu and upper Barun, then to Dharan and KTM and home.
   
  Gillette and Reynolds alone then to Tibet: about 10 April to Peking and from Lhasa to Rongbuk Glacier to border, then towards Gyachung, then to Kharta Kang. 70 days in Tibet as 70 days in Nepal.

  KTM 4 Dec for Pumori. Route not decided; want best route for winter season and think southwest probably is it. Fly to Lukla 4 Dec. 6 days to BC around Gorak Shep. No Sherpas above BC.

  Climb pretty much alpine-style although 1 lower camp probably for safety and even a supply cache at a 2nd camp at 21,000-22,000 feet. Do not expect to ski Pumori.


  Ned Gillete - Jan 12, 1982

  Reached top of Pumori at 2 pm, Jan 6, 1982 on second attempt. Three of team to summit: Jim Bridwell, Jan Reynolds, Ned Gillette; ten minutes on top because of cold. Crystal clear weather - see maybe 100 miles into Tibet's brown mountains and hills. Everyone in good health. Seven days from ABC at 18,500 ft top. C1 at 21,000 ft in "the hole" (under big ice serac), camp 2 at 21,800 ft on East Ridge under summit triangle. Weather has been extraordinarily good during our entire month working on the mountain. Clear, cold weather. No major storms amazingly enough. very lucky. Perfect hard snow and ice for climbing.

  We have retreated to Namche Bazar to rest for three days. Will start up into the winter ice again on Jan 15. Plan on 3 days to foot of Mingbo La from here, then five hard days to Makalu base if encounter no storms. Impossible to ski since no snow on ground and glaciers are bullet-proof hard. Two our Sherpas (who all continue to be wonderful) will meet us at Makalu base camp by circling around to the south. They will bring our skis, and we hope to film the ski up the Barun Glacier to the border. Then five days out down the Arun river, then fly to KTM.


  Letter from Ned Gillette, Pumori base camp

  For Christmas we got the turkey main course without the plum pudding dessert. Reached our goal, the border on the east shoulder of Pumori at 22,000 ft on Dec 23. Team decision not to carry on to summit although easy terrain above as we all like life in general and our fingers and toes in particular. The summit wold have entailed arriving on top at dusk (short days now, long, cold nights), then a biv in the open without food, water, shelter. There is a rundown of our lightning strike on Pumori. We have understood all along that the weather deteriorates drastically post-Xmas. Since we arrived in Nepal late, our only chance lay in going for the climb as fast as possible. Plus, Buddhist Lamas consulted by our Sherpas said we had one week of good weather remaining for the climb.

  Climbing route we named "King James version" since it was chosen by Jim Bridwell. He also led all the difficult climbing, which was most of the route. Route started up broad ice and snow apron, then into steep ridge of rock styrofoam - like snow and ice steps and passages, a traverse onto long snow slope to ice cliff head wall which led to border ridge at 22,000 ft grand climbing, a wonderful experience. The summit was a long shot in time remaining.

  Spent 3 days getting started and making or way up to the beginning of the ridge at 19,500 ft retreating to advanced base camp at 18,500 ft at night. Then a rest day, then an exhaustingly long climb from base to the only campsite on the route at 21,000 ft plus. Arrived at dusk, hacked out a tent platform. some of our equipment had to be left lower, so all four us crammed into a single, tiny two person tent. No headlamps worked, so it was a dark, choatic night. It left us exhausted the next day, although we did manage to retrieve our gear, set up a second tent, pushed roue higher next day, retreated to tents. Then pushed to ridge and border next day, Dec 23rd. Incredible view into Tibet, brown, barren, desert-like, Rongbuk glacier sweeping away draining north side of Everest. Rapelled to base next day.

  Took very minimal food and stove fuel on climb so we could move fast. Our strategy was to risk all on the present good weather, only minus 20 degree at night. Exhilarating route in a fantastically dramatic location. Everyone did a great job on a new route in winter.

  Steve McKinney flying home soon. Expedition taking too much out of him for effective speed skiing. Everything going well.


  McKinney - 4 Jan 1982

  Summit ridge = NE Ridge (route to ridge)
  BC 17,500 ft
  C1 18,700 ft
  C2 21,000 ft

  Problem was that thought could go from C2 to summit without making a C3; then found it was long, mostly horizontal walk. Then new member arrived and permit for only 4 members. 
  McKinney satisfied with climb he'd already done so gave his place to new man. Others went up again on 28th; would put in a C3 and get to top about 1st Jan.

  McKinney left BC 29 Dec. Colanica arrived BC 27 Dec and is climbing now; may come out with Bridwell in a week or these 2 may do trip to Makalu area.

achievment:
  1st Americans to scale this peak successfully and the 1st climbers of any nationality to conquer it in winter's -20 degrees fahrenheit temperature and 30 to 50 mph winds


expid: MAKA81401
peakid: MAKA
year: 1981
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Ron Rutland
sponsor: British Himalayan Winter Expedition Makalu
approach: Tumlingtar->Shipton Pass->Barun Glacier BC
bcdate: 1981-11-30
smtdate: 1981-12-22
termdate: 1981-12-28
termnote: Abandoned at 7315m because 4 members were exhausted and suffered from altitude sickness
campsites: BC(30/11,4570m),ABC(05/12,5335m),C1(08/12,6000m),C2(12/12,6250m),C3(15/12,6700m),xxx(22/12,7315m)
routememo:
  Ron Rutland - 6 Jan 82

  All arrived KTM yesterday from Tumlingtar; reached BC 30 Nov at 15,000 feet. Porters refused to go higher despite lack of snow. Left members with lot to do with no Sherpas for carrying loads.

  Put on ABC at 17,500 feet 5 Dec; then removed tents and set things up again at C1.
  C1 - 19000 ft on 8 Dec on moraine at foot of serac barrier.
  C2 - 20,500 ft on Dec 12; again moved same tents; on Chago Glacier on NW Face
  C3 at about 22,000 ft on 15 Dec; again on glacier and again same tents moved up 

  (All camp altitudes approx since Ron no altitude meter). Basically moved four people up and 2 behind. 23,800 ft reached 19 Dec by Linda Rutland, Alan Deakin, Bill Ryan, Ron Rutland
  at equipment dump which was to be another camp site; left loads there.

  Temperature about -50 degrees and strong westerly winds left you crawling.

  Heap and Penman stayed lower because fatigue and altitude sickness.

  21 Dec 4 up again. Linda and Ron Rutland again went up with mere equipment on 22 Dec and again dropped back down. Other 2, Deakin and Ryan, didn't go up this time. Ron went a bit higher to have a look in light wind; reached at least 24,000 feet, but again slept lower.

  "Now so far from summit, and only 2 (Rutlands) of us operating efficiently thus not viable proposition for the two of us to continue on our own." Left food and gas loads there at 23,000 ft and retreated with equipment loads. Expedition now over.

  Had assumed that only early part of Dec would be good weather and gambled on continuous push from what was unfortunately low BC; majority of people ran out of energy. In fact weather for whole of Dec was good and we probably could have afforded to do it in 2 stages, gone to 23,000 feet and dropped back for rest. With winter wind, must consolidate position and than make 2nd push. We learned a lot about equipment in winter. Some equipment (clothing and bag) not adequate, not warm enough. Camps were not snowholes up to camp to-be because wind had blown away suitable snow packing it had, leaving only ice.

  No accidents or frostbite; very conscious of vital need to avoid them. Left BC 28 Dec.


  Linda Rutland - 13 Nov 81

  Route = northwest side standard route

  "I reckon we have to climb it 15 Dec or not at all." We moved fast on Annapurna III (in 1979) and we got going.

  Linda Rutland and Deakin arrived 8 Nov and rest came 15th Nov; fly to Tumlingtar 18 Nov. Only 25 porters, 1 Sirdar for BC only. Hope to dig snowholes which are warmer, windproof and if enough snow can make them quite big. 

  BC in used place at 17,000 feet 28-30 Nov 

  ABC on easy terrain, before Col at about 19,000 feet first before technical climbing begins. This gets loads up glacier and members acclimatized, about a week.

  Another week to Col at 24,000 feet; one camp at ABC and Col; both ABC and Col maybe snowholes. "I have been telling everyone Ron will be on top on Christmas Day." Would be 1st British ascent of Makalu.

  Walk the mountain in pairs. No oxygen at all. 


expid: MAKA81402
peakid: MAKA
year: 1981
route1: W Pillar (to 7000m)
route2: NW side (to 6900m+)
nation: France
leaders: Ivan Ghirardini
sponsor: French Makalu Winter Expedition
bcdate: 1981-12-31
smtdate: 1982-01-12
termdate: 1982-01-31
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to strong wind
campsites: BC(31/12,4850m),C1(03/01,5300m),C2(08/01,5900m),C3(09/01,6700m),xxx(12/01,7000m)
routememo:
  Porters stopped at Shershon because arrived there late in day and they had little food.

  BC at Shershon on 31 Dec at 4850m. 1 day rest and arranged things then started 
     to West Pillar alpine-style.
   2 Jan reached 5200m up and down, route difficult to see.
   3 Jan at C1 5300-5400m then snowfall, 1 day rest and returned to BC 5 Jan. 
   6 Jan rest. 
   7 Jan start again with another load; arrived C2 same day found C1 tent broken 
     by wind but improvised camp.
   8 Jan to C2 (5900m) and a little beyond to snow limit; here conditions very good 
     wind stopped a little; that night in C2.
   9 Jan to C3 (really bivouac) at 6700m - no snow on ridge, conditions very good,
     fixed rope not needed.
  10 Jan tried to go to C4 but after 300m wind very strong so down to C3.
  11 Jan again big, big wind and down to C1.
  12 Jan to BC.

  See expedition success not possible on West Pillar, wind continous; maybe chance of success via Makalu La going in 1 day to top. Sent message to Ministry requesting permit for normal route; wandered around area, practicing.
   
  24 Jan porters arrived BC without reply, decided try anyway; snowing in late Jan.
  26 Jan started up, went beyond original C1, snowing and very windy slept at 5400m.
  27 Jan climbed Chago Glacier in 10 cm snow to 6200m.
  28 Jan to nearby 7000m beyond top of Glacier towards Makalu La.
  28 Jan waited for weather to improve.
  30 Jan still bad weather: big wind which was the problem, so went down because 
     now not possible to be on top and down by end of season on 31st. At 9:00 pm 
     was in BC at Shershon.
  31 Jan left BC.

  Highest point reached he think was 7000m on Pillar
  No accident, no frostbites, no altitude problem. 
  On Pillar had 2 sleeping bags and still boots inside bag was frozen.

  Next winter want to come again to Nepal 8000m; prefer no ridge but face, where can go from 7000m to top in one day because of short period of wind. Start final climb in night. Use Sherpas, to carry loads to find camp at 7000m or so.
   
  "Big problem in winter is the wind"; snow and rock conditions are good, clear weather many days, few avalanches but very short periods of no winds; wind sounds like Boeing. In pillar attempt wind atleast 150 km/hr and blowing rope horizontal and cannot rappel down to 7000m protected by others around not so difficult, above that jet wind is fierce and seldom lets up.

  Climbed entirely alone except are three Sherpas carried with him to Japanese BC.


  Solo and Winter Ascent on Makalu 8481m West Pillar and Normal route

  Makalu West Pillar: it is one of the most beautiful and difficult route of the Himalaya. 

  Ivan Ghirardini: he is one of the most experimented solo climbers in the world; born in Italy in 1953, he was French and living in Chamonix.

  He have successful climb: Grandes Jorasses north face, Matterhorn north face, Eiger north face in solo and in the same winter, Mitre peak and Aconcagua south face in solo, 17 first solo ascent, II America, Alps, Africa, Himalaya, etc...

  He was member of the French national expedition on K2, and bivouacked alone at 8350m without oxygen.

  Approach march: 

  The expedition reached KTM the 6th Dec only because 4 other members have preferred to cancel their participation because of the bad rapport of the Italian expedition in 1980/81. It take 15 days in KTM to finish all the formality and to have a flight to Tumlingtar.

  The expedition reached Navagaon in 3 days and change all the porters for Sherpas and reached the BC the 31st Dec.

  With only 7 porters and one member, it was the smallest expedition who have never gone to on 8000m.

  Events of the Ascent:

  The 2nd January, Ivan Ghirardini started its climbing after a snow fall and bad weather, he return to the base camp the 4th.

  The 6th January he returned to Camp 1 on the Chago Glacier and he discovered that his small tent was broken by a strong wind. He decided to continue using it as a sleeping bag.

  The 7th January, he reached 5900m up to the French Camp 2. Then he successfully climb Jumeau I and Jumeau II and bivouacked alone above the French Camp 3 near 6700m or more, at the beginning of the rock part to C4. The ropes for rapelling are going in horizontal direction but not down. He bivouacked at 6500m to Camp 2; he returned to Camp 1 on Chago with big problem because of the wind in the C2 to the base camp. He understands that his solo ascent was quite impossible because of the wind.

  After discussion with liaison officer, he decided to send back the mail runner and cook for ask permission for normal route which did not require rapelling for return. The weather was very bad and snowed all the time but Ivan Ghirardini returned on Chago the 26 and biv alone above the French camp 1 near 5450m. The 27th he reached 6500m on Chago and the 28th he bivouacked near a big crevasse near or above 7000m. The weather was staying very bad. Ivan Ghirardini was going with no visibility, but he find the rest of the British expedition on Dec and he think that the wind will be very less by bad weather and with snow, but he didn't reach Makalu La. In high altitude, also by weather the wind was continuous.


  Letter by Tashi Jangbu Sherpa, BC - 2 Jan 1982

  The expedition established base camp at the height of 4850m on 31st Dec 1981. It is the smallest expedition ever been in 8000m peak using only 7 porters up to BC. The solo climb is to be undertaken by Ivan Ghirardini and he started on 2nd of Jan 1982 from base camp. In any case he has to accomplish the accent by 31st Jan, the extreme limit of date for winter accent according to Nepal Mountaineering regulation.

  In the case of success, his ascent will be the most difficult climb ever made in the whole history of alpinism, because he accumulates the maximum of difficulties: 8481m, extreme winter, solo without any artificial oxygen and without any assistance and porter from base camp.

  Attempt in alpine style with only 120m ropes, 12 pitons, and 15 days rations. All together 25 kgs of equipment.


expid: TILI81401
peakid: TILI
year: 1981
route1: N Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Dawa Gyalzen Sherpa
ascent1: 6th
bcdate: 1982-01-17
smtdate: 1982-01-24
smttime: 1345
termdate: 1982-01-27
campsites: BC(17/01,4400m),C1(18/01,5130m),C2(22/01,5630m),C3(23/01,6455m),Smt(24/01)
routememo:
  Col Bohra - 8 June 82

  Bohra (leader of Spring 1982 Tilicho expedition) wonders how the Sherpas succeeded as they claim last winter. Bohra's expedition found their tent at C1, but no indication they had been higher. No question of losing route cause there is only one ridge (NE Ridge) to follow from there.


  Tilicho North Ridge (all 3 members) - 7 Feb 82

  Returned to KTM 4 Feb. Left KTM 9 Jan and reached BC 17th Jan at 4400m only because lot of snow and porters would not go higher. BC below "n" in Mesokantu La on around Annapurna map north-northwest of Tilicho. From there glacier went over a kind of pass southwest of Mesokantu La.

  C1 on southeast side of this pass and west of Tilicho Lake near where had intended to put BC. Reached C1 5130m 18th Jan and ferried all loads in 3 days

  20 Jan rest day in BC.
  21 Jan carried last loads to C1 and looked for route. 
  22 Jan moved up to new camp at 5630m on NW Ridge.

  23 Jan C3 at 6455m across rock ridge on blue ice on west side of ridge and south of C2.

  24 Jan to summit up steep small face close to ridge. Started from C3 6:45 am and on top 1:45 pm. Lot of blue ice. Snow falling after 11:30 am and wind. On top about 10 minutes in strong wind; could see only 10m ahead 11:00 to summit. Sure they were on summit because mountain has only one summit, as they saw earlier in climb. Descended to C3 on 24 Jan at 6:00+ pm, nearly dark.
   
  25 Jan couldn't find tent left at C1 because of snow, so on down looking for BC at 8:30 pm, but LO and cook had moved BC, so spent night at its site without tent and not using wet sleeping bags but with mattresses over head probably safe from snow falling but not much from wind.

  26 Jan found new BC at 9:00 am not far away. Heavy snow fall that night.

  27 Jan left BC. 2 days to Jomsom through very deep snow sometimes ahead as deep at their heights, 5 feet. Moved until late at night. No accidents, frostbite or illness.

  All 3 members climbed together all days from 18 to 26 Jan and no one with them above BC.


  Tilicho, Ang Sharkey - 5 Jan 82

  Porters leave 6 Jan and 3 members leave 9 Jan and catch up with porters at Jomsom. Thence to Kesang Khola and Tilicho La to BC. 

  Route = North Ridge (normal route)
  Arrive BC 17-18 Jan at 17,500 feet. 
  Will make a C1 about 19,000 feet and 9 days BC to summit if weather is perfect. 

  Must finish climb by 31 Jan as no permit to climb in Feb. Started organizing expedition late because of trekking job and didn't realize how long paper work would take. 

  Only 3 above BC. At BC will be LO, cook boy for LO, and mailrunner. No oxygen.
   
  Return to KTM about 15 Feb.


expid: GAUR81301
peakid: GAUR
year: 1981
route1: SW Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Antonio Trabado De La Fuente
sponsor: Spanish Expedition to Gaurishanker 1981
bcdate: 1981-09-25
smtdate: 1981-10-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to difficult route
campsites: BC(25/09,4800m),C1(03/10,5300m),xxx(21/10,6300m)
accidents: 1 member Miro altitude sickness (descended to lower altitude)
routememo:
  Route impossible because almost no snow; difficult rock and ice. Tried to make route to left of American route on SW Face.

  BC - 4800m - 25 Sept
  C1 - 5300m -  3 Oct

  No C2; very difficult route with no place to put camp; only way to climb put in fixed ropes and bivouac on face.

  Highest point 6300m 21 Oct by Alonso, San Sebastian, Trabado De La Fuente.

  Stopped because difficult route, no food left. Route is possible with more people and equipment. 2 members sick and so 3 members carrying loads every day.

  No accidents, frostbite, serious illness (2 sick from stomach trouble and poor acclimatization). Arrived KTM yesterday afternoon. 


  Javier - 9 Sept 81

  Route = SW Face (US 1979 route)
  Leave KTM 10 Sept
  11-12 days to BC. BC same as US 1979.
  Hope climb alpine-style; hope no fixed rope will be needed but have 200m. 
  6-8 days BC->summit->BC
  Have come to KTM from Karakorum (Gasherbrum II) so no need to acclimatize.
  Arrive BC 22-23 Sept
  If good weather, 15 Oct on top
  If bad weather, 31 Oct to 15 Nov
  No Sherpas above BC
  Oxygen medical only


expid: NUPT81302
peakid: NUPT
year: 1981
route1: W Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Malcolm Duff
sponsor: Scottish Nuptse Expedition
bcdate: 1981-09-26
smtdate: 1981-10-10
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to high wind and storm
campsites: BC(26/09,5090m),xxx(10/10,6700m)
accidents: One had altitude sickness
routememo:
  Duff - 21 Oct 81

  Arrived BC (16,700 feet) 26 Sept. Then 4 days of storm. Nisbet got sick [altitude] on about 1 Oct and down to Pheriche and back to BC only.

  1 Oct went to have a look for 4 days, picked our line of climb and started up. Adrian dropped out when looked too hard for him. 5 Oct remaining 2 started serious climb and went up ridge in very hard technical climb. 10 Oct got to point at 22,000 feet just above where Canadian's buttress joins ridge. Looked another 7 days to reach summit but not enough fuel. 17 day's round trip. Could have gone done and gotten more "but kind of climb you want to do once," besides starting to get windy. Descended on 11 Oct in one day to BC (thought would have taken several days).

  No accident or frostbite.
  West Ridge impossible to fix ropes on it in sections: knife-edge snow.
  Want to book Nuptse for spring 1983 by same route. 
  Definitely need 4 climbers. Climbing figuring 15 days round trip, so party of 6.
  BC about at Gorak Shep.
  Try alpine-style. 

  Food and gas dump on plateau at bout 22,000 feet below steep section to summit. 18-20 days KTM to BC. Acclaim and recon period of 4-5 days.

  4-5 days to make dump; down to BC for 4-5 days rest. Want to climb to unclimbed West Summit to Main Summit and down Scott route into Cwm. Very long and somewhat speculative route and this delay not helping things. Delay waiting for 2 others members to arrive in Nepal.

  No Sherpas above BC.
  No oxygen at all.


  Duff - 10 Aug 81

  Leave KTM tomorrow. Route on West Ridge leads first to NW Summit, which Japanese climbed and thence to West Summit and (25,790 feet) and Main summit and down into Cwm.


expid: ANN381301
peakid: ANN3
year: 1981
route1: SE Pillar
nation: UK
leaders: Timothy Leach
sponsor: British Annapurna III Expedition 1981
approach: Pokhara->Annapurna Sanctuary->East Annapurna Glacier
bcdate: 1981-09-26
smtdate: 1981-10-18
termdate: 1981-10-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to route difficulty and lack of time
campsites: BC(26/09,3250m),ABC(02/10,4570m),xxx(18/10,6700m)
routememo:
  We arrived back 20 Oct, leave 21 Oct.

  Left Pokhara 17 Sept and arrived BC 10 days later. Very difficult to get to BC over East rib of Machhapuchhare's 15,000 feet.

  BC 11,000 feet on 26 Sept, just before storm spent a week moving gear to ABC near bottom of ridge at 15,000 feet; occupied only when going for push move to ABC 2 Oct for 2 days and then going up to 19,000 feet on East Ridge to acclimatize and down to BC.

  6 Oct again up, at ABC that night. Then 3 days going to just below 22,000 feet and then dragged down to lower bivouac and 19 Oct down to 19,000 feet and BC on 20th and end of climb.

  Rock climbing which hard technically and at altitude and heavy sack of food, but then ahead was snow and ice which was very difficult with only one ice ax; then time expired. Sirdar went for porters and snowfall in future would have brought difficulties getting out of BC area.

  No fixed camps above ABC; sirdar did not go above BC. Route is possible but alpine-style difficult above 20,000 feet.


  Leach - 10 Sept 81

  Leave KTM 14 Sept; 6-7 days to BC; Pokhara by road and up Seti to East Annapurna Glacier southeast of Annapurna III.

  BC about 16000 feet.
  ABC safest place at bottom of pillar 17-18000 feet.
  Alpine style, only 300 feet fixed rope with expedition.
  Horizontal section at about 21,000 feet, hope to reach this in 1st push.
  Spend couple weeks moving to ABC and col on SE Ridge to acclimatize.
  About 10 Oct will try first push up pillar.
  No Sherpas above BC, no oxygen at all.


expid: CHAM81301
peakid: CHAM
year: 1981
route1: N Face-Middle Smt
nation: Italy
leaders: Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott
sponsor: Messner Himalayan Expedition to Makalu
ascent1: 1st of Middle Smt
countries: Nepal, Switzerland, UK
approach: Tumlingtar->Lower Barun Glacier->Chamlang BC
bcdate: 1981-09-13
smtdate: 1981-09-26
termdate: 1981-10-03
othersmts: Had permit for Makalu (MAKA-813-03)
campsites: BC(13/09,4800m),C1(23/09,5300m),ABC(24/09,6000m),Biv(25/09,6550m),MiddleSmt(26/09,7050m)
achievment: Reached a middle summit only
routememo:
  Messner - 7 Oct 81

  Left BC 3rd Oct
  Climbed Chamlang from North Face to middle summit about 7000m on about 26 Sept: 
    Ang Dorje
    Sirdar Pasang
    Doug Scott
    Reinhold Messner


  Left BC 13 Sept
  Arrived C1 23 Sept
  Arrived ABC 24 Sept
  Mid-summit and back to ABC - 26 Sept
  ABC to East Col and below 27th returned BC 28th.

  Doug is trying SE Ridge of Makalu starting about 15 Oct with a Sherpa or Alex MacIntyre if West Face not possible.

  Reinhold left BC because of unhappy letters from Nena. Ang Dorje and Nawang Tenzing came with him. With weather bad at end of Sept and acclimatization needed, wouldn't have been able to do Makalu and returned KTM before late Oct. "I have time" to try Makalu same other time.


  Doug Scott - 28 Aug 81
  Chamlang & Makalu

  Chamlang: ABC 5600-5800m in Chamlang Glacier, thence alpine style with fixed rope. 4 days ABC to top and 1 day back to ABC. Depends on snow conditions, might be a bit powdery. Messner joins Chamlang climb.
   
  Arrive BC 12-13 Sept, 15,700 ft. 
  Arrive Chamlang ABC about 15 Sept and start climb about 20 Sept.
   
  Start Makalu in early Oct from BC and climb in 12 days.
  BC to top by southeast and down to BC. 
  May descend by northwest side thus doing traverse of Makalu.


  Messner - 28 Aug 81

  Not decided about Sherpas above BC on Makalu - will see.
  No oxygen at all.

  3 Sherpa members for Chamlang and 2 H-A Sherpa porters with expedition.


expid: GLAC81301
peakid: GLAC
year: 1981
route1: SW side
nation: Austria
leaders: Gerwalt Pichler
sponsor: Austrian Expedition to Glacier Dome
bcdate: 1981-10-12
smtdate: 1981-10-18
campsites: BC(12/10,4300M),C1(13/10,5050m),C2(17/10,5050m),xxx(18/10,5800m)
termnote:
  Abandoned at 5800m because members were commercial clients not capable of climb and route very difficult

routememo:
  Adi Weissensteiner - 29 Oct 81

  Pichler went with trek after BC. Adi Weissensteiner led climb of total of 15 members only.
  4 Sherpas above BC
  BC 4300m - 12 Oct 
  C1 5050m - 13 Oct

  Planned to use Swedish route but out of question because to dangerous from avalanches and crevasses had opened up widely and glacier ready to fall in on itself. Had acclimatization problem with members who had to go down. Once had gained altitude tried going long way to east and around glacier. Went around and made C2 made at 5450m on 17 Oct. Continued looking for route to avoid dangerous area of glacier. Got stuck in upper glacier and went to pillar
  found members not prepared for such a climb. Traverse too dangerous and they not acclimatized. 19 Oct stopped attempt. Highest point was 5800m by Adi and Ang Temba on 18 Oct.
   
  No accidents. Summit needs experienced team and cannot be done to time-table. Route was southwest side. Climb abandoned because members were commercial clients not capable of the climb.

   
  Sharma Tourism - 26 Oct 81

  Austria Glacier Dome West Ridge abandoned; when not known. 
  Arrive 30 Oct KTM


  Pichler with Dr. Haes

  Route = southwest side, same as Swedes 1981 Spring

  Pichler and Haas leave KTM 29 Sept; will go well ahead of main party with 3 Sherpas to put in fixed ropes. Will need at least 50m fixed ropes between C1 and C3 so that when main party comes all will be ready for them.

  BC at 5400m; 2 [Pichler and Haas] will arrive 4-5 Oct 
  C2 at or a little above Col between Fluted Peak and Glacier Dome 
  Main party arrive KTM 4-5 Oct and BC 11 or 12 Oct
  Fixed rope in as far as C1 by then; possibly to C2 
  BC to BC for main party
  Only 11 days because clients get bored by 12-24 days
  Medical oxygen only
  4 Sherpas above BC
  Expedition has no name

  Total 36 people coming for expedition and around-Annapurna trek. All go to BC and then decide who actually climbs and who treks. About 20 will climb; maybe 18, maybe 21. Pichler has injured knee; he may actually lead trek and his wife climb or vice versa.


expid: AMAD81301
peakid: AMAD
year: 1981
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Gary Neptune
sponsor: Colorado Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 17th,18th
bcdate: 1981-09-14
smtdate: 1981-10-05
termdate: 1981-10-15
campsites: BC(14/09,5060m),C1(20/09,5945m),C2(02/10,6155m),C3(04/10,6400m),Smt(05,12/10)
accidents: Greene altitude sickness; Simmonds knee suddenly flared because of old knee injury
routememo:
  BC - 16,600 - 14 Sept
  C1 - 19,500 - 18 Sept 1st loads arrived and 20 Sept first occupied
  C2 - 20,200 - set up on 24 Sept first occupied after storm 2 Oct
  C3 - 21,000 - 4 Oct

  Summit by Tuckey, Michaud and Johnston 5 Oct and back 10 pm to C3; 6 Oct down to BC.

  Neptune started up with 3 to C1 on 3 Oct. Morr and Burleson went down on 6th; Morr fearful of danger, Burleson reason not known. Greene and Neptune to C2 on 6 Oct, then Greene got very sick and both went down again 7 Oct.

  8 Oct all to Pangboche for rakshi party.

  9 Oct all left except Greene, Simmonds and Neptune who went back to BC to clean things up at least.

  10 Oct Neptune to C2 
  11 Oct Neptune to C3
  12 Oct Neptune to summit and back to C3
  13 Oct Neptune to BC
  14 Oct Neptune and Greene to C2 and cleared it all and back to BC
  15 Oct left BC

  Simmonds went only to C1 because of old knee injury that suddenly flared up.

  Neptune went up ropes fixed by 1st team up to C2. Above C2 ran out of rope, so nothing fixed and at "mushroom ridge" had to decide whether go on up or not: went up. Lots of loose rotten snow made tiring climbing.

  Route same as Frost route on 1980.

  All Ok except Karen Simmond's knee.


  Neptune - 2 Aug 81

  2 on 3-5 Sept and 2 maybe later
  6 now in KTM; they had hoped to leave 26th but baggage not yet here
  18 days to BC 

  Route = South Ridge, same as 1961 etc. BC 15,000 ft or higher if possible.

  1 camp at start of ridge at 19,000 ft and probably 2 above that; C3 about 21,000 ft have only 900 ft of rope of all kinds. No oxygen.

  2 weeks to climb mountain, but BC to top probably 4 weeks waiting for weather since have little fixed rope and also acclamatizion. 

  No Sherpas above BC.


expid: EVER81302
peakid: EVER
year: 1981
route1: W Cwm-W Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: New Zealand Everest Expedition 1981
bcdate: 1981-09-13
smtdate: 1981-10-05
termdate: 1981-10-12
termnote: Abandoned at 7770m due to fierce winds
campsites: BC(13/09,5250m),C1(17/09,6100m),C2(20/09,6400m),C3(24/09,7010m),C4(02/10,7500m),xxx(05/10,7770m)
routememo:
  BC 13 Sept - 17,220 ft
  C1 17 Sept - 20,000 ft same altitude as AMREE
  C2 20 Sept - 21,000 ft (camp next to AMREE)
  C3 24 Sept - 23,000 ft just below shoulder's top
  C4  2 Oct  - 24,600 ft on West Ridge

  Route: thru Khumbu Icefall and into Western Cwm, then up West Shoulder (same as US 1963) and onto North Face and into Couloir.

  Highest point reached was 25,000-25,500 feet in Hornbein Couloir on 5 Oct. 2 New Zealanders and 2 Sherpas trying to get to C5 and make summit push 26,200 feet. Next day but very windy as had been since 28 Sept and gave up. 150 mph wind at C3 where more during stormy 28th might blow tent and couldn't sleep, holding tent. 6 Oct went from C4 to BC in one day. Sent Sherpas back up on 8 Oct to clear C2; storm of 28th flattened C2. 

  "Felt were getting into shit, we weren't looking after Sherpas good enough" and were making it so hard ourselves, wasn't safe for Sherpas if they slipped. Sherpas not able enough to climb above without fixed ropes."

  Brice and Freaney got frosted up slightly on day of storm.

  Never used oxygen although had it with them in C4 and were taking it to C5 for Freaney to use above C5; no accidents. Not technically difficult, "just gut-busting."

  C4 7500m 2 Oct; could not go beyond camp because high wind so descended to BC 7 Oct; abandoned 6 Oct. C4 made by 2 members and 2 Sherpas; good health.


  Brice - 17 Aug 81

  Arrived 15th, leave KTM 20 or 21 Aug and walk to Khumbu arrived BC about 12 or 13 Sept.

  Will have 4 or 5 camps above BC regardless of route. Prefer climb through Icefall and then up shoulder if Americans agree. Would mean not having difficult climb to Lho La and Sherpas can go higher. 4-5 weeks climbing; won't be able to last much longer. Will go via Hornbein Couloir in both directions probably.

  If the weather is kind one maybe will get there but one chances are not very great.


expid: NUPT81301
peakid: NUPT
year: 1981
route1: SW Buttress-W Ridge (to 6400m)
route2: S Face (to 6400m)
nation: Canada
leaders: Jim Elzinga
sponsor: Canada Nuptse South Face Expedition
bcdate: 1981-09-05
smtdate: 1981-09-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to lack of food supplies
campsites: BC(05/09,5200m),ABC(09/09,5500m),C1(18/09,6100m),xxx(28/09,6400m)
routememo:
  Lauchlan - 13 Oct 81

  Nuptse 7-member team: We were in striking position when Scots arrived and were very angry Canadians were there. Scots would not agree to joining forces, but were obviously not capable of the climb. Then big storm wiped out supplies.

  Elzinga and Lauchlan hung around waiting to see if face okay for alpine-style ascent of 1961 route. Started climbing 8th Oct and got 21,000 feet in one day, gave up after losing enthusiasm. No accidents or frostbite.

  Elzinga arrive KTM in about a week.


  March (& McNab) - 7 Oct 81

  BC  5200m  5 Sept
  ABC 5500m  9 Sept
  C1  6100m 18 Sept

  March, McNab and Congdon arrived KTM today. When got to BC, South Face route not reasonable, too dangerous: fracture lines where ridge hit face and in upper section of face and snow slopes avalanching. Then looked at route up of face and fixed 600 feet of it. Stone fall so bad that would take out ropes after 9:00 am (could safely climb earlier).

  Knew Scottish team had West Ridge but no sign of them so asked Ministry for permit to SW Buttress to West Ridge. Put 4200 feet fixed rope up buttress. Were almost to point on ridge where would put C2; ministry had said okay if Americans agreed. Scots turned up and said would wait 8 days for ministry clarification and got message not permitted.
   
  Enormous rock buttress came down in great storm of lot of wet snow which froze - avalanche arrived 30 Sept: 3/4 mix 1/4 mile: 1 million tons rock with boulders size of Yellow Pagoda dining room. All in BC when it happened. Went back up: nearly all mountain food gone, same personal clothing, all helmets lost from rock slide also bit snow avalanche came down colouir between SW Buttress and rock that came away. Took down equipment on buttress to stockpile it for Everest.

  Elzinga and Lauchlan may try alpine-style ascent of Britons 1961 route after buying helmets and salvaging enough food. Would be trying about now if Elzinga's wife doesn't deflect them.

  Baillie left couple days before rock slide and Scots' arrival; saw writing on wall.

  High point reached 21,000 feet 28 Sept by Lauchlan and Skreslet.
  Skreslet is in Pheriche now with girlfriend. 
  No accidents.

  Tremendous amount of rock and ice falling constantly. Buttress quite hard climbing and steep. Excellent approach to West Ridge: safest and fastest approach to Ridge. Scots are on other side of ridge from "suicide gully."

  All members got along together extremely well. March not sure he will come to Everest in 1982; doesn't like avalanche danger on him.


  Jim Elzinga (Nuptse leader) - 17 Aug 81

  Route will be more direct than that of Britons 1961 and 1975 
  a) from BC to Brits C4 eliminating 1 Camp
  b) from Brits' C7 to summit
  b) will get technical climbing of kind will encounter next year on Everest.
  All Nuptse members are to come to Everest next year. 
  Leave KTM tomorrow


expid: KANG81301
peakid: KANG
year: 1981
route1: SW Face
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Jacques Ricouard
sponsor: French Kanchenjunga Expedition
ascent1: 10th
bcdate: 1981-09-12
smtdate: 1981-10-15
smttime: 1500
termdate: 1981-10-21
campsites: BC(12/09,5340m),C1(20/09,6100m),C2(25/09,7100m),C3(04/10,7600m),Smt(15/10)
accidents: Ricouard fatal fall
routememo:
  Parmentier - 8 Nov 81

  Route was SW Face route of 1955 British BC to C3. Then on final days climb, an ice gully goes to top and French went to right of this gully too soon (wanted to get out into sunshine because it was very cold) and had hard rock climbing from 8000m.


  Parmentier - 7 Nov 81

  All arrived KTM yesterday evening (except doctor who left expedition early as planned).

  BC - 5340m -12 Sept
  C1 - 6100m -20 Sept
  C2 - 7100m -25 Sept (storm)
  C3 - 7600m - 4 Oct

  5 climbed together. 1st time at C2 on 4 Oct, next 3-4 days later but too early to be sure to reach top. Went down to BC to rest, sleep and eat and be ready to try for top without oxygen. Were very tired after 2 carries in deep snow to C2. Weather became good and on 11th ready to go. 5 men ready to go, 5 men went up. Pallet, Berruex, Gaby and 2 Sherpas were to try with or without oxygen. All well acclimatized and Parmentier and Ricouard reached C2 easily but all were really at end of strength. Reached C3 together on 11th. Started for top 1:00 am on 15th in cloudless weather. 1 hour later too cold: Parmentier lost feeling in fingers and toes and wanted to return to camp but Ricouard did not agree: massaged themselves and then went on. Used right (best) way but kept on; 7:00 am, sun came out and rock climbing went well. At 200m from top Ricouard said too tired to go on but Parmentier urged him on. Parmentier and Ricouard went to top at 3:00 pm stayed only 10 minutes because very cold.

  Ricouard and Parmentier very close friends in Paris, like brothers. Embraced each other in happiness on reaching top. "Now we have to go very slowly because of summit stupid to have accident" (Ricouard's last words). Ricouard went ahead in gully and Parmentier fell little, did not know when Ricouard was gone; found his pick and thought it a joke but did not find him at C3 at 6:00 pm return. Parmentier in good condition. Next morning Sherpas came up to C3 thinking he knew Ricouard had fallen 1000m between C2 and C3 and body completely broken. Body to be put in crevasse but legs pulled and came separated so covered with snow. At BC carved stone in memory with name and date of death next to stones of '05 Swiss and 2 Mexicans Alex Pache.

  Took Parmentier 2 days to get down to BC because of fear of own accident. Others were not acclimatized and after accident made no attempt. Was an expedition of friends and not expensive. Paid by themselves. Now even better friends.

  Oxygen never used; had 8 old bottles half full.


  Sharma, Tourism - 26 Oct 81

  Jean-Jacques Ricouard, 1952, journalist and climber, Paris
  5 climbing members.

  Ricouard and Michel Parmentier reached summit on Oct 15 without oxygen. Expedition had established C3 at 7700m Oct 4. While descending from summit, Ricouard slipped just below top and fell 300m and was dead. Oct 16 body was left just below summit of Kangchenjunga. Not clear whether body reached and or buried. Leaving BC Oct 21.


  Ricouard - 17 Aug 81

  2 members arrived tomorrow, 4 arrived yesterday
  Leave KTM 22 to 24 August by road to Ilam
  Wwalk via Taplejung in 18 days trek (20 days KTM->BC).

  Route = SW Face 1955 British. Long route for 5 French climbers and 2 Sherpas above BC; if successful will be 1st autumn ascent of Kangchenjunga.

  BC at 5430m
  C1 6500m (C2 of '55)
  C2 7300m (temp camp)
  C3 7800m (temp camp)
  C4 8400m (temp camp)

  Mixed logistics of high and heavy expedition 
  Previously used oxygen bottles only 
  Arrived BC about 11 Sept
  Summit we hope at 15 Oct but probably 20-25 Oct.


expid: ANN181302
peakid: ANN1
year: 1981
route1: NW Buttress
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Paul Vion
sponsor: Expedition of the Guides of Pralognan-Vanoise to Annapurna 1981
bcdate: 1981-09-01
smtdate: 1981-09-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to fatal avalanches
campsites: BC(01/09,4400m),C1(03/09,5100m),C2(05/09,5650m),C3(17/09,6400m),C4(24/09,7150m),xxx(7400m)
accidents: Yves Favre, Andre Durieux and Sherpas Pemba Tsering and Ang Nima were killed by avalanche
routememo:
  Roche - 15 Oct 81

  Bodies not found; only 1 glove seen below C1; too much snow at C2 and 2 Sherpas didn't want to go up to search, too much ice, etc. at C1.

  Expedition had 4 Sherpas who went above BC.


  Vion - 7 Sept 81

  Vion arrived KTM 5 Sept.
  Ministry camp data Ok; BC at 4400m. 

  C4 made on 24 Sept by Roland Girod-Roux, Jean-Pierre Tomio, Rene Tomio, Jean-Pierre Favre and Andre Durieux.

  7400m reached by Durieux and Roland on 26 Sept.

  Above C4 route was right on ridge; route would go and would put C5 on 27 Sept if weather good at 7500m and attempt summit 28-29 Sept by first team, Vion and Mingma or Jean-Pierre Favre and Girod-Roux. 2nd team the other 2 of these 4; 3rd team Tomio brothers.

  Yves Favre had slight medical problem (piles) and Durieux a little tired; might have made a later summit attempt.

  Weather turned bad night of 26-27 Sept and began snow 2:00 am. Durieux was in C3 with Jean-Paul Vion, Roland Girod-Roux and Sirdar Mingma.

  Yves Favre from BC to C2 on 17 Sept with Roche; weather not so bad: 15 cm snow in morning.
   
  27 Sept Mingma and Andre Durieux went down to C2. 27 Sept again came bad weather. Yves Favre and Roche to C2 in slightly bad weather, then down to BC with sirdar same day, 27 Sept. Durieux arrived C2 and that Yves and Durieux go to C1 but 2 Sherpas stay in C2 in tents. C2 was big snowhole and 3 tents.

  27-28 Sept night think big avalanche took away entire C2 camp; when C3 people descended later could not find C2 at all (other members coming KTM later this month will go up again and search more for C2). C2 occupants were Pemba Tsering and Ang Nima.

  28 Sept think Yves Favre and Durieux in C1; at 10:40 am big avalanche from East summit. BC felt big wind and see big avalanche clouds by doctor, Roche, sirdar and other Sherpas; had to grab tent to hold it.

  C1 hit by snow and wind. 3 big tents been there but when those above (Jean-Paul Favre, Girod-Roux and Vion) descended could find no trace of camp.

  Those in higher camp came down on 29 Sept; came down to prepare route below, not knowing of deaths (because had no radio) to put in new ropes.

  Others still at BC will spend 4-5 days (while waiting for porters) looking for bodies and will arrive KTM 15 Oct; leave BC 5 or 6 Oct.

  Vion stays KTM same days, probably wait for others.

  Before camping we know Annapurna is dangerous from avalanche. Because of this danger did not want to climb wrong way. For this reason put C2 distant from mountain; "it was not possible to do better" in locating C2 from avalanche dangers.


  Yves Favre - 12 Aug 81

  Route different from Italians (see expedition post card in which Italian route in blue); Italian avalanche at C2 bed bottom of card.

  Only others on Northwest Buttress were Dutch in 1977 who went up a bit and then abandoned.

  2 arrived 10 Aug; others arrived 17 leave KTM about 20-23 Aug for Pokhara; arrived BC in 12 days.

  BC - 4300-4400m on North Annapurna Glacier
  C2 - 5400m
  C3 - 6300m
  C4 - 7000m
  C5 - 7500m or higher

  Most difficult: rock overhang above C4, but no danger here. Danger is from avalanches on lower part.
  3-4 Sherpas above BC. Medical oxygen only
  Arrived BC 2-3 Sept
  Summit 10 Oct 


expid: MANA81301
peakid: MANA
year: 1981
route1: SW Face
nation: France
leaders: Pierre Beghin
sponsor: Grenoble Expedition to Manaslu 1981
ascent1: 13th
bcdate: 1981-09-04
smtdate: 1981-10-07
termdate: 1981-10-14
campsites: BC(04/09,3700m),BC(06/09,4750m),C1(16/09,5700m),C2(25/09,6700m),C3(06/10,7400m),Smt(07/10)
routememo:
  Ang Kami - 31 March 84

  Ang Kami [claims he] went to Manaslu summit with Beghin and Mueller.


  Beghin - 18 Oct 81

  Bretin tried go to C2 to C3 alone but could not find C3 in dark so had to return to C2, one day after summiter success.

  Route = West Face or SW Face. Very difficult new route; much stone fall so had to go quickly: small expedition had no accident but big expedition too dangerous. 

  Most difficult was C1 to C2: 1000m wall of ice, bad rock which difficult to fix rope, stone fall hurt rope. Very high 3400m face, very difficult and many avalanches. Climbed only between 4:00 and 9:00 am. Difficult to find space for tents; had to dig for space for 1 tent.

  50% steepness above C2 and there to summit was alpine-style: 3 days from C2 to top and back to C2 without fixed ropes. Above C2 not so dangerous, but below very much so. After deposit camp swept away by snow about 10 Sept, thought to give up. Deposit at 4800m just above high BC; lost rope, snow pickets, tarpaulin and 1 tent. After this decided to climb only at dark. "I don't recommend it to my friends, this route."

  Japanese autumn 1981 Manaslu summiter Ozaki said he found snowshoes and basket 50 meters below summit.


  Beghin - 19 Aug 81

  Route = SW Face, on right of Japanese 1971 ridge/face route.

  No one knows this face which is entirely different from Austria 1972 South Face (on other side of a ridge). SW Face is to left of Austrian route.

  2 here now, other 2 arrive 23 Aug.
  Leave KTM 25-26 Aug by truck to Dumre; about 10 days Dumre to BC.
  Low BC about 3800m, LO and cook 
  Face = 3500m high very high right expedition. 1 or 2 or 3 camps with only tents; perhaps 2 camps, not more I think.
   
  High BC at 5000m; real BC for climbers. 2 or 3 camps above this camp with 1 at about 6000m or little less and others about 6600-6700m and perhaps bivouac camp on summit of face at 7400-7500m.

  Arrive low BC 5 Sept, then ferry loads to high BC by 4 members, 2 Sherpas and 2 local porters. High BC stocked in 10 days. Enough for members and Sherpas to stay there and above while 2 porters continue ferries. About 10 Sept start making route above high BC by 2 members while 2 continue ferries. 

  Very difficult face, very steep 50-55%, very complex face where must find route, but very very light expedition, not heavy camps; no oxygen. Might finish climb in 4 weeks but will stay as long as possible (until end of Oct).
  Maybe 1 oxygen for medical.

  Approach via Marshyangdi Khola to Jhenje, Dhudhkbola - then to Daman Khola?? (Sherpas disagree) - same approach as Japanese 1971.


expid: NILN81301
peakid: NILN
year: 1981
route1: N Face-W Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Bernard Moreau
sponsor: French Expedition to Nilgiri North
bcdate: 1981-10-11
smtdate: 1981-10-23
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to knee deep snow and cold temperature of minus 20 degrees
campsites: BC(11/10,4100m),C(16/10,5600m),xxx(23/10,5900m)
routememo:
  Richard Yves & Christian Nuytten - 25 Oct 81

  Were on North Face. Did not actually reach West Ridge found some fixed ropes from 19 yrs ago (Lionel Terray expedition, whose altitudes were 200m too high). 5900m high point reached by Moreau and Yves, 4 others 100m below.
   
  Arrived BC 11 Oct 4100m
          C1 16 Oct 5600m

  High point 23 Oct 5900m (19,350 feet). No more progress: snow above knee a 60% sleeping face and no more time: 7-10 more days. Also very cold (-20 degrees).
   
  [?] days above 4000m only; more needed for good acclimatization. 

  2 here now today via air from Jomsom, 5 after one week.

  Route to C1 via a ridge, which was safe, then must traverse right (to avoid rocks) to West Ridge. Much more snow than Terray expedition; he had snow only above C1 but now well below.

  All members Ok; little frosting of toes. No accidents, no avalanches although left of their ridge there was constant avalanching.


  Yves Richard & Bernard Moreau - 28 Sept 81

  Route = North Face to West Ridge (1962 Dutch route, but not completely sure 
    where exactly Dutch went).
  Leave KTM 29 or 30 Sept by road to Pokhara, then approach via Jomsom to 
    north of mountain. 
  BC about 4500m, arrive 9-10 Oct. 
  1 or 2 fixed camps; don't know exactly where but probably are on face and one 
    on ridge at 6500m.
  No Sherpas above BC
  No oxygen at all
  Most difficult part of route between 1st and 2nd camp: very steep, will need 
    fixed rope here.
  Summit 20-25 Oct.


expid: DHAM81301
peakid: DHAM
year: 1981
route1: W Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jean Coudray
sponsor: Expedition to Dhampus
ascent1: 4th official
bcdate: 1981-10-25
smtdate: 1981-10-26
smttime: 1330
campsites: BC(25/10,5000m),Smt(26/10)
routememo:
  Jean Coudray - 3 Nov 81

  In course of around Dhaulagiri trek, made camp on 25 Oct for Dhampus at 5000m near Dhampus Pass and thence up West Ridge. Not difficult climb 8 members (up and down in 1 day 26 Oct: started 8:00 am, 1st on summit at 1:30 pm, last at 2:30 pm and last reached 4000m camp at 11:00 pm.
   
  Anselme Baud, Jean Coudray, Michel Coudray, Robert Deplanque, Michel Devillebichot, Bernard Gillet, Marcel Lemennicier and Henri Parent (60 years old). 8 members to summit and Baud and Gillet down by skis from summit to 4400m; took off skis for last part in dark. 
   
  No accidents or problems.

  Went to 4000m camp late instead of returning to 5000m camp because bad weather threatened and wanted to be as far down as possible to get away from snow avalanches if snow came - 5000m camp moved on to 4000m as trekking member of party continued on their way towards Tukuche.


  Jean Coudray - 13 Oct 81

  Commercial party of 15 and Coudray-like trek.
  Approach around West of Dhaulagiri I and French Pass
  Leave KTM 14 Oct, arrive at mountain about 22-3-4 Oct 
  Climbing 2-3 days via normal roue = West Ridge
  Leave via Dhampus Pass and return KTM 2 Nov and leave Nepal 4 Nov
  Sherpas don't climb


expid: NUMB81301
peakid: NUMB
year: 1981
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Eric Laroche
sponsor: French Expedition to Numbur
ascent1: 2nd,3rd
approach: Kirantichap->Dudh Kund Glacier
bcdate: 1981-10-02
smtdate: 1981-10-14
smttime: 1156
campsites: BC(02/10,4900m),Dep(07/10,5270m),C1(09/10,5800m),C2(13/10,6350m),Smt(14,17/10)
routememo:
  Laroche - 29 Oct 81

  Deposit camp between BC and C1, so Ministry of Tourism C2=C1 and C1=deposit camp.

  Route was SW Ridge. For us no big difficulties like crevasses, but objective dangers like wind slab. Most of part between C1 and C2 was wind slab. Think now the slabs have already gone. Crevasses between C2 and top which Swiss found are now not so big. Consider themselves first to scale Numbur.

  Next expedition would be better to put BC [higher], for BC was just north of 4800m beside "D" of Dudh Kund Glacier on Shorang map (same site on Swiss). From Summit saw place near small lakes southwest of Point 5319 (northwest of Dudh Kund Glacier).

  For many BC->C1 too long, or at least could be shorter if sites BC near lakes. For summit ridge was steep and sharp. North side looked bad icefall. "I wouldn't like it." 

  No accidents, frostbite or illness. No oxygen used.


  Sharma, Tourism - 16 Oct 81 

  Jean-Pierre Herry (1948, Chamonix) and Christian Rathat (1945, Coubron) climbed to summit 14 Oct at 11:56 am after 5 hours climbing from C2 (6300m). Mingma Sherpa also to top. Lower camps not known if others trying.


  Laroche and Richalet - 14 Sept 81

  Route = SW Ridge
  Leave KTM 18 or 19 Sept
  To Kirantichap by Land Rover and 10 days to BC.
  No Sherpas above BC
  Oxygen medical only
  BC at about 5000m near top of Dudh Kund Glacier thence northwest to SW Ridge 
     of Numbur
  C1 at about 5600m
  C2 at about 6200m
  and 1 light camp or bivouac
  Arrive BC end September; about 29th BC to summit (3 weeks). 
  Perhaps 2 problems: steep well between C1 and C2 and crevasse high up.

  Main aim is scientific lab at BC: physiological adaptation to high altitude: sleep patterns modification, vision, blood characteristics. Will have electric power and bicycle to measure heart rate.


expid: DHA181302
peakid: DHA1
year: 1981
route1: S Face-SE Ridge up; NE Ridge down
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Stane Belak
sponsor: Slovenian Himalaya Expedition
bcdate: 1981-09-26
smtdate: 1981-10-23
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to approaching bad weather
accidents: Stane little frostbite, Vinko frostbite on all hands and feet
campsites:
  BC(26/09,4000m),C1(15/10,5000m),Biv1(16/10,5500m),Biv2(17/10,5700m),Biv3(18/10,6100m),Biv4(19/10,6900m),Biv5(20/10,7300m),Biv6(21/10,7400m),Biv7(22/10,7550m),Biv8(23/10,8000m),xxx(8000m)

routememo:
  Belak - 10 Nov 81

  Original route on left part of face; big avalanches and big seracs falling often, so impossible. 

  16 days to BC 3950m; arrived 26 Sept, then 27 Sept up to 5300m point for view of face. Saw it was without snow with lot of stone fall and seracs. Then 3 days storm 27-30 Sept continuous rain/snow. After storm again to view point; now no stonefall, but ice and snow covered face. Impossible to acclimatize on face because to dangerous and steep so go for 3 days go to top of 6400m hill. Went to route part of face and further 4100m climbed. This way only possible way up face; even here during night and early morning. Full moon about 13 Oct so could climb at night. Total about 4250m = height of face.

  Steep face, no place for tents after one week, 6-12 Oct, looked at face, going up 900m and put in several meters fixed rope. Another group reached 5300m to steep section and pitched tent at 5100m.
   
  15-16 - Oct started with 8 days food and 1 biv tent from BC to tent at 5100m: Belak, Bercic and Tratnik. Rested there 5 hours till 11:00 pm and climbed in moonlight to 5600m very difficult rock and steep, then snow field. When sun came 9:00 am much stonefall. Kept falling and had to stop 7 hours about 6000m where were protected from fall 4:00 pm 16 Oct. 

  17 Oct - 5 pm began climb again to 2nd ice step and on up all night and all next day till late afternoon.

  18 Oct - 17 hours of climb to about 6500m mixed rock and ice having gained 500m; next steep ice (up to 600m) and hard snow.

  19 Oct - 8:00 am started climb; mixed face: rock and ice at 3:00 pm reached 6900m. 

  20 Oct - started 9:00 am, reached top ridge = SE Ridge about 7200m and found Japanese rope [from German expedition] and stopped at ridge at 3:00 pm.
   
  21-22 Oct - 100m gain only because sharp ridge and not steep (indeed same little down) in 6 hours; reached 7300m. 21-22 Oct Bercic got frostbite.

  23 Oct - last biv on ridge at about 7700m. Took 4 hours just to melt one drink and used up gas; strong wind. 

  24 Oct - came and 9:30 am tent broken: black clouds in sky so summit not possible. Goal now to reach 8000m pass and go down north side. Started moving at 10:00 am and 12:00 noon at pass at 8000m. Looked down NE Ridge, looked nice and not so much wind. Went to NE Ridge where found ropes, 1 old tent. Late afternoon found gas stove in tent and same sacks of Japanese-labeled tea and cocoa and gas at about 7200m in dark. Accidental fire in tent but no one hurt.

  25 Oct - down to East Glacier Plateau at 5800m. Very tired, little frozen and weather very bad: snowfall. No tent, sleeping on snow but had sleeping bags and good clothes. 30 cm snow fell during night.

  26 Oct - walking staggering for hours till evening found crevasse for shelter up at 5950m.

  27 Oct - 8:00 am started again. Could see at noon villages and reached at dark bottom of rock and ice face 200m high now 4700m.

  28 Oct - crossed glacier all day; worst day: very tired and glacier impossibly broken and dangerous with seracs falling often. At dark left glacier to grass. Slept in grass after one and hour walk. 

  29 Oct - found Belgian trekkers; on arrival Belgians helped and reached Kalopani.

  6 days no food; all lost 8-10 kg.

  Had planned to descend NE Ridge since too dangerous to descend face.


  Bercic - 10 Nov 81

  Original route not attempted; danger from avalanche high up and route in middle "no good," not much snow on face.

  4100m of face from bottom to top.

  One camp at 5000m on face; above all bivs. Started up on 15th and slept 15th Oct in this camp by Belak, Bercic and Tratnik.
   
  Face very steep ice; 4 bivs on face, then reached top East Ridge at about 7000m and 3 bivs on ridge and stopped climb little beyond 3rd biv. Reached 8000m 23 Oct, 3rd biv reached 22 Oct.

  23 Oct - up a little; stopped ascent because strong wind, gas fuel finished; then descended North Face; 5 bivs on face descent: last 5 days "no eating." Found one tent about 7200m and 2 gas bottles so could make liquids to drink: soup, cocoa and tea.

  Other 3 members came round via Tukuche Village to North BC but 3 climbers not to North BC but to East Glacier and to Kalopani about 29 Oct other 3 retired from North BC to Tatopani asking police for 3 friends. All meet except Bercic who frostbitten and cannot walk. Came to Beni after 3 days on foot from Kalopani to Beni and horse to Baglung and by air to KTM with Belak and Tratnik after 7 days at airport of Balewa and arrived KTM 9 Nov. Other 3 arrived today.

  Emil no frostbite; Stane a little; Vinko all hands and feet.


  Belak - 9 Sept 81

  Leave KTM 11 Sept by bus to Pokhara and 9-10 days to BC; approach via Chimikhola, Mangle up Thula Khola and north to BC site east of Manapathi at about 4000m.

  Glacier from BC to 2-3 tents under the wall (at foot of wall at about 5000m) not a camp really.

  May need fixed rope on wall above these tents, but prefer pure alpine-style climb - wall lower part 70 degrees and upper part 50 degrees Belak thinks "but we shall see." Wall subject to avalanche and must find route that is safe from those. May make route as per postcard, perhaps more directly to summit; wind can be big problem towards top.

  Arrive BC 21 Sept. 3 weeks acclimatization and seeing best way to make route; mid-Oct try 2 times to climb wall.

  20 Oct full moon and can climb at night when less dangers of avalanche. 3-5 bivs above tents at foot of wall; in lower part of wall difficulties from many couloirs.

  No Sherpas beyond BC.
  No oxygen at all.


  South Face of Dhaulagiri climbed 16 days for the ascent & descent
  by Indok Sluzba

  The final section of the approach march was over virgin ground. On 23rd Sept they reached the location of BC, where the low altitude porters left them. Nevertheless by 26th Sept the BC had been set up. Following a period of bad weather and research, the only acclimatization tour possible was made to Manapati during 1st-3rd Oct. From 7th-13th Oct the lower part of the face was explored, the climbers reaching an altitude of 5300m, fixing 400m of rope and pitching a tent at 5150m.

  15th Oct: Stane Belak, Cene Bercic and Emil Tratnik started upon the face and left their tent at 02.35 the following day. At 9:00 they were halted for seven hours by falling stones at an altitude of 5500m. They then climbed until nightfall, reaching 5700m.

  17th Oct: At midnight they continued the ascent over an icefield and by morning had reached the third rock-step. Continuing to climb they dug out their third bivouac at an altitude of 6100m.

  18th: The following section presented difficulties in orientation (50-65 degrees) and at 6400m the fourth biv was made. The same day the second rope started on the face and reached the tent at 5100m but then descended so as to go with the sixth climber (Janez Sabolak) to meet their companions.

  19th: Belaying was problematic, inclination 50 degrees. They bivoucked at 6900m. (In fact they at their disposal on average only 5-6 hours for climbing; the remainder of the time was needed to prepare the biv.)

  20th Oct: At 14.00 they reached the rock band (7300m) in the SW Ridge, where they came upon the ropes used by the Japanese expedition in 1978. The face was climbed.

  21st Oct: After a bad night they climbed the exposed rock section (III-IV) of the ridge. They were able to gain only 100m in height.

  22nd: Only 150m height was gained. There followed a cold and windy night at an altitude of 7550m.

  23rd Oct: In the afternoon they reached the right-hand edge of the huge/great snow-slopes below the summit (7800m). The chances of preparing food were minimal while the wind and cold intensified.

  24th Oct: From this point there were no further climbing difficulties. The leader informed BC of their plan for the descent. But shortly after 8.00 the gas-stove ceased to function. The wind also increased in force and buried the tent. All these conditions called for an immediate retreat. All that was no longer important (the gas-stove, tent, dehydrated food, etc) was rejected and at noon they reached the highest point of the SE Ridge and then descended over the northern slope to 7200m. Here they fortunately found the remainings of a tent (probably Japanese). However the gas stove they dug out burst into flames and easily destroyed. Radio contact with BC failed to function.

  25th Oct: They descended by the north rib. Worse weather was rapidly approaching from the west. The climbers bivouacked in the open, without either protection or food. 20 cm of snow fell during the night.

  26th Oct: The weather deteriorated still further; nevertheless they fought their way down to 6000m and bivouacked in a crevasse.

  27th Oct: 60 cm of new snow fell. They ploughed through to the ridge and in deep snow reached the altitude of 6090m above the Dhaulagiri glacier and the valley of the Tak Khola. They then descended for another seven hours and organized a bivouac on the glacier (4800m). Contact with their companies was still not possible.

  28th Oct: At day break they started the difficult traverse of the extremely fragmented and dangerous glacier and after 12 hours gained the border morraine. Bivouac on snow-covered pastures (4200m).

  29th Oct: For the first time in 16 days they met other people and after 6 days of hunger had access to food. By evening they had dropped down to the village of Kalapani.

  30th Oct: In the village of Beni they met their remaining companions, who had searched for them in vain. On account of his frostbitten feet Cene Bercic continued the journey on horseback. There still remained the march to the Balewa airfield, which they were home again on 16th Nov.

  "Yugoslav Dhaulagiri I South face Expedition  1981" completed the ascent of the South Face of Dhaulagiri, which no other expedition had ever succeeded in doing and thus registered one of the greatest achievements in Yugoslav alpinism. It was the first expedition entirely in alpine style (and without oxygen), Following the first ascent of the S Face of Makalu in 1975, of West Face Trisul in 1976, of SW Ridge of Hidden Peak in 1977, of the West Ridge of Everest in 1979, and of the South Face of Lhotse in 1981.


