# exped

expid: ANN108106
peakid: ANN1
year: 2008
route1: S Face-E Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Sergei Bogomolov
sponsor: Annapurna South Face Expedition 2008
ascent1: 49th
approach: Pokhara->Phedi
bcdate: 2008-04-09
smtdate: 2008-05-19
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2008-04-28
othersmts: Climbed Annapurna I East Smt (ANNE-081-01)
accidents: Minor frostbite in finger tips (right hand) of Bogomolov
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
campsites:
  BC(09/04,4130m),C1(14/04,5000m),C2(16/04,5800m),C3(26/04,6800m),C4(06/05,7500m),C5(18/05,7800m),Smt(19/05)

routememo:
  BC arrival - Bogomolov, Lutokhin and Sinev by helicopter.

  Russian Annapurna South Face Expedition 2008 Spring - Sergei Bogomolov

  Bogomolov and Bolotov left C4 (7700m) at 4 am on 7 May in bad weather conditions. Bogomolov felt that his fingers started getting cold and turned around to C4 from 7700m. Bolotov continued and reached East Summit at 11 am, stayed there for about 10 minutes and descended to C4 at 3 pm.

  Due to the bad weather conditions and worn out of energy of members, Bogomolov, Lutokhin and Sinev left BC on 13 May by helicopter to Kathmandu. They will leave on 15 May. Four members Frolenko, Mamedov, Roshkov, Ryhenko left BC on 28 April and left Kathmandu on 5 May. Bolotov stayed back at BC to try for the summit. Bolotov, Inaki Ochoa and Horia Colibasanu started together from C5 at 4 am on 19 May for their summit bid. Bolotov reached summit at 12:30 pm, stayed on summit for 10-15 minutes and descended to C5 at 6:45 pm. Snow conditions way up were knee deep. Ochoa and Colibasanu were not there. Bolotov does not know from where and when the two companions turned around as he was on lead. On 20 May Bolotov reached C4 at 10 am and found Ochoa very sick and Colibasanu helping him. Bolotov left C4 to make trail for Swiss climber Ueli Steck who was suppose to bring medicines for Ochoa. Bolotov then went down to C2 on 22 May and stayed there. On 23 May, Bolotov left for C3 and on the way up he got the news that Ochoa was dead then he went down to BC. On 26 May Bolotov left BC on helicopter to Pokhara and plane to Kathmandu. Leaving Kathmandu on 27 May.

  Bolotov on his summit bit did not use C1, put C2 at 5900m and C4 at 7400m. Frolenko climbed up to 6200m around 16 April. Lutokhin went up to 7700m on 7 May. Mamedov's high point was about 5600m on 15 April. Roshkov and Ryzhenko were at C2 on 16 April. Sinev's highest point was 7700m on 8 May.

  Left BC: 
    4 members on 28 April 
    3 members on 13 May


  Email from Alexei Bolotov to Rodrigo Granzatto Peron (researcher from Brazil) - 2 Feb 2009

  Bolotov confirms that he did not pass over the summits of Annapurna East and Annapurna Middle on his way to the summit of Annapurna I, but avoided the ridge for a more direct route to the summit.


  Email from Sergei Bogomolov to Rodrigo Granzatto Peron (researcher from Brazil) - Feb 2009

  Hello Rodrigo

  Sorry, you have written on my old e-mail. I it did not look for a long time.

  I give you exhaustive answers.

  1 - On Annapurna 2008 you assaulted the mountain with Alexey Bolotov. He summited Annapurna East (8026m). Why did you not proceed with him to Annapurna East?

  On May, 7th we with Alexey left from C6 at 4.00 for the purpose of achievement Ännapurna I. At 8:00 we have reached a point 1. Have understood that to Ännapurna I very far, therefore have decided to return back to spend the night in C6, next day to take tent and to put C7 in a point 2. Alexey has expressed desire to make investigation and to rise above towards top. I have refused, it was necessary to save forces (we were got tired enough) and Ännapurna East for me do not aim. As a result Alexey in 7 hours was at top.

  2 - Your idea was to traverse the entire east ridge (Annapurna East, Annapurna Central and Annapurna I), like the Loretan-Joos route of 1984, OR your idea was to avoid the ridge and proceed directly to Annapurna I (8091m), like the Isurrategi-Lafaille Route of 2002?

  We knew, that it is necessary to go through Annapurna East, but felt, that it is possible to go much more low. For this purpose Alexey also has gone on investigation. And our way more logical, it is direct on Ännapurna I.

  3 - Bolotov stayed on BC and tried Annapurna again some days later. Why did you decided not to stay and returned to Russia?

  On May, 7th I have been freezed, at me the finger on the left hand was black. The breast after casual falling also was ill. I was very got tired. Therefore I have called sanitary flight and on May, 13th have departed to Katmandu together with Lutohin and Sinev. At Alexey the start from Katmandu was on May 20th and he has decided to be still in BC. And there Inaki and Horia him have persuaded once again to descend.

  a) You summited Shishapangma Central (8015m) on 16 May 2002 with Ershova and Belous through the regular route. This was just to acclimatise or you were guiding them? Why did you not traverse the ridge to the main summit Shishapangma I (8027m) on that occasion?

  I had an arrangement with Vladimir Belous, that we with it will pass on a crest with Shishapangma Central to Shishapangma I. Now when he has seen this narrow and abrupt crest Vladimir has refused. I have been disappointed and began to go down downwards. And then has seen, that there is a simple and logical transition to East crest from C3. I have suggested Oleynik to descend on this route.

  b) Next you summited Shishapangma I (8027m) on 24 May 2002 with Oleynik. Did you climbed a new route? How was this route? Do you have a picture with the route drawn for me to see?

  Look a photo

  Regards
  Sergey


expid: ANN208101
peakid: ANN2
year: 2008
route1: NW Ridge-W Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Alessandra Pepper
sponsor: Three Friends Expedition Annapurna II
countries: Australia
approach: Besisahar->Dharapani->Chame->Hongre
bcdate: 2008-04-30
smtdate: 2008-05-17
termdate: 2008-05-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6125m due to proneness to avalanches (not safe, too unstable snow conditions)
campsites: BC(30/04,4750m),C1(07/05,5425m),C2(13/05,5700m),C3(15/05,6100m),xxx(17/05,6125m)
agency: Mountain Tribes Trekking
routememo:
  Butson and Clark reached C3 on 15 May. Waited there for the improvement of snow conditions till 17 May. But every day there was snowfall, chest deep. There was risk of avalanche. They left C3 on 17 May at 6:15 am for BC. 

  Butson and Clark skied down between C2 to C1 and to BC. 

  Clarke climbed up to C2 on 8 May and went down to BC. Clarke said that was enough for him. 

  Pepper never went above BC and left expedition on 7 May because she had to go for trek and did not want to go up. 

  The team returned Kathmandu on 26 May.


expid: BARU08102
peakid: BARU
year: 2008
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Luc De Vriese
sponsor: Independent Belgium on Baruntse
approach: Lukla->Namche->Chhukung->Island Peak BC->Amphu Lapcha
bcdate: 2008-04-27
smtdate: 2008-05-03
termdate: 2008-05-04
termnote: Abandoned at 6350m due to unstable weather conditions, blue ice, no fixed ropes above C2
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (24 April)
campsites: BC(27/04,5400m),C1(30/04,6150m),C2(01/05,6350m),xxx(03/05,6350m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Baruntse - Luc De Vriese, Spring 2008

  On 1 May De Vriese and Ritemba Sherpa deposited their climbing gear in C2 and descended to C1. Weather condition was unstable, windy, snowfall. There was no other expedition at that time. They saw a big blue ice slope with fresh snow above C2, which De Vriese thought was dangerous and Ritemba too did not like it. It was not possible for two of them to put fixed ropes above C2. On 2 May De Vriese and Ritemba decided to call off the climb. They brought down their deposit from C2 to BC on 3 May. While they were descending they met three other expeditions around that time it could have been helpful to fix the line on the mountain with collective effort.

  He added that in this case he was not lucky as when De Vriese reached BC the American expedition was ready to move out of BC and as he was ready to move from BC the Danish expedition came in and also he met the Japanese expedition at Mera La going to Baruntse. About the condition of mountain De Vriese said it was much better in October last year. The team returned Kathmandu on 9 May and will leave on 15 May.

  Fixed rope: 100m on the West Col

  Sherpas:
    Ritemba Sherpa, (25-01-2027), Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha 
      (he was with De Vriese on Baruntse last October)


expid: BARU08103
peakid: BARU
year: 2008
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Denmark
leaders: Bo Christensen
sponsor: Kipling Travel Baruntse Expedition
ascent1: 78th
countries: Norway
bcdate: 2008-05-01
smtdate: 2008-05-15
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2008-05-17
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak (19 April)
campsites: BC(01/05,5450m),C1(04/05,6150m),C2A(09/05,6400m),C2B(14/05,6500m),Smt(15/05)
accidents: Porter's death on march out from BC
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  BC near lake
  C1 on east side of West Col
  C2 before SE Ridge.

  Kipling Travel Baruntse 2008 led by Bo Belvedere Christensen - 23 May 2008

  The team flew to Lukla on 17 April, and their first climb was on Mera Peak. They arrived at its BC on 26 April and all four members summited on the 19th. They left the mountain via Mera La and arrived at Baruntse BC on 1 May.

  They made two bids for the summit. The first summit attempt was launched from C2 at 6400m on 10 May by all four members with three Sherpas, Lhakpa Dorje, Pemba Chhiri and Dachhamba. They reached 6950m on the SE Ridge, but decided that snow conditions, including large cornices, were too dangerous to continue. They returned to C2.

  On 14 May they moved C2 up to 6500m on a col on the SE Ridge. A British expedition had put a tent there, and used the unoccupied tent as part of their new C2. The new site had the advantage of being closer to the top.

  On 15 May the second summit attempt was made from the new C2 by Cederkrantz, Christensen and Nielsen plus Lhakpa Dorje, Pemba Chhiri and Bal Bahadur Lopchen. Kvithyll did not participate because she was tired from the first attempt. They left camp at 5:00 am and were on the summit at 11:00 am. They were able to succeed this time because by fixing 150m of rope they felt they had made the route safer. (When they looked back on the slightly different line they had used on 10 May, they realized that it had actually gone over a big cornice). They returned to BC at 6:00 pm.

  They had no health problems on the mountain, but one porter died while carrying one of their loads away from BC. He was Kitabsing Rai, 33 years old from Chheskam-1, Solu. According to the leader, the Sherpas said he had been unwell when he arrived at BC, and he died west of Amphu Lapcha pass. His body was taken to Dingboche, where a doctor said he had pulmonary edema that caused a heart attack. According to the reports submitted to the tourism ministry by the police and the team's liaison officer, he slipped and fell on the rocks on Amphu Lapcha pass and died at Dingboche on 19 May.

  Sherpas:
    Dachhamba (Da Chhemba) Sherpa, 2/3/68 (19/11/2024), Gudel-5, Solu, Everest X4
    Pemba Chhiri, 6/11/75 (20/7/2032), Kurima, Lokhim-9, no 8000ers
    Bal Bahadur Lopchen, 5/1/73, Ramche-9, Rasuwa district, no 8000ers
    Lhakpa Dorje, 1/10/65 (15/6/2022), Sotang-6, Everest X5, Lhotse X1


expid: BARU08104
peakid: BARU
year: 2008
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Robin Wills
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Baruntse Expedition 2008
countries: S Africa
approach: Poyum->Pengkongma->Tangnag->Mera La->W Col
bcdate: 2008-04-17
smtdate: 2008-04-23
termdate: 2008-04-25
campsites: BC(17/04,5400m),C1(22/04,6135m),xxx(23/04,6350m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
termnote:
  Abandoned at 6350m due to solid blue ice, dangerous snow bridges between C1-C2, big crevasses, dangerous loose rocks on W Col

routememo:
  On 23 April Evans, Thomas, Surendra Kumar Gurung and Namgyal Sherpa went from C1 to observe conditions on the West Col. At about 6300-6400m in the morning around 9 am, the observing party found the conditions on West Col as solid blue ice, dangerous loose rocks, dangerous snow bridges between C1 and C2 and big crevasses. The team radioed the leader and reported the conditions. Leader Wills asked the observing team to descend to BC same day. The expedition team then decided to abandon the expedition on 24 April. 

  Cloke and Jeoffrey climbed up to C1.
   
  Gie, Harvey, Lander, Taylor and Wills climbed up to the bottom of West Col about 6000m. 

  The team returned Kathmandu on 3 May and will leave on 6 May.

  Fixed rope: 2500m from C1 to West Col.

  Sherpas:
    Surendra Kumar Gurung, (10/11/73), Khewang-2, Taplejung, summited Everest 
      north in 2007
    Namgya Chhiri Sherpa, (22/8/82), Khumjung-1


expid: BARU08105
peakid: BARU
year: 2008
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Takaharu Hayashi
sponsor: Mt Baruntse Expedition 2008
ascent1: 79th
approach: Lukla->Suthanga->Chhetre->Kote->Tangnag->Khara->Mera Peak->Khomodira
bcdate: 2008-04-29
smtdate: 2008-05-17
smttime: 1140
termdate: 2008-05-21
campsites: BC(29/04,5200m),C1(15/05,6100m),C2(16/05,6000m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Lhakpa Sherpa
routememo:
  Hayashi, Ikeda, Ms. Saito, Lhakpa, Phur Temba Sherpa left C2 at about 3 am on 17 May. Hayashi, Ikeda, Lhakpa and Phur Temba Sherpa reached summit at 11:40 am, stayed on summit about 30 minutes, descended to C2 at 2 pm (Hayashi reached summit at 12:00). Slept at C2 next day to BC. Ms Saito turned around from 6950m to C2 due to tiredness as she was very slow. Weather was very good. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 26 May. Hayashi and Saito left Nepal on 27 and Ikeda on 30 May. 

  According to Lhakpa, Hayashi may come in autumn for Cho Oyu and Xixabangma and Tibet side Everest in Spring next year.

  Fixed rope: 250m between BC to C1.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Sherpa, 27/4/65 (15/1/2022), Makalu-9, Cho Oyu X2
    Phur Temba Sherpa, 5/1/79 (21/9/2035), Makalu-5, 1st time


expid: BARU08106
peakid: BARU
year: 2008
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Richard Pears
sponsor: Met Six Baruntse Expedition 2008
approach: Jatra La->Kote->Mera La->Hunku Valley
bcdate: 2008-05-07
smtdate: 2008-05-17
termdate: 2008-05-20
termnote: Abandoned due to lack of climbing ability of members
campsites: BC(07/05,5400m),C1(11/05,6100m),C2(16/05,6600m),xxx(17/05,7000m)
agency: Mountain Monarch
routememo:
  On 17 May Duck, Pears, Pophan, Pema Chhiri, Buddha Singh and Tendi Sherpa left C2 at 3 am and reached 7000m around 9:30 am. It was cloudy. The team found difficulty in climbing and decided to stop and to descend to C2 where they arrived at 11:30 am; had a rest for a while then to C1 at 4 pm. Next day to BC. 

  Armstrong climbed up to C1 on 16 May; he felt lack of energy and went back to BC. 
  Dean and Khan came up to BC; both did not want to try to climb and left BC on 16 May. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 25 May. Duck and Pophan left Kathmandu on 26 May. Rest of members will leave on 29 May. 

  Fixed rope: 250m on West Col below C1.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Chhiri Sherpa, 3/10/72 (17/06/2029), Gudel-4, Solu
    Buddha Singh Tamang, 25/11/72 (10/08/2029), Kaku, Solu 
    Tendi Sherpa, 2/12/76 (17/08/2033), Gudel-4


expid: BARU08107
peakid: BARU
year: 2008
route1: SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Jeffrey Justman
sponsor: Mountain Link Baruntse Expedition 2008
approach: Lukla->Namche->Chhukung->Amphu Lapcha
smtdate: 2008-04-25
accidents: Ms Booker suffered from acute abdominal pain (appendicitus)
agency: Himalayan Mountain Guides
routememo:
  Justman wrote in his email that Ms Booker suffered from acute abdominal pain in the lower right quadrant (appendix). She was evacuated by helicopter from Pheriche to Kathmandu. On 25 April the team left Kathmandu on 28 April. 


expid: BARU08108
peakid: BARU
year: 2008
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Peter Gschwendtner
sponsor: Swiss Baruntse-Makalu Expedition 2008
ascent1: 77th
countries: Austria
approach: Tumlingtar->Num->Sedua->Tashigaon->Kongma->Mumbuk->Chaurikharka
bcdate: 2008-04-17
smtdate: 2008-04-26
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2008-05-17
othersmts: Climbed Makalu (MAKA-081-25)
campsites: BC(17/04,4700m),ABC(20/04,5100m),C1(23/04,5600m),C2(24/04,6100m),Smt(26/04)
agency: Multi Adventure
primid: MAKA08125
routememo:
  Swiss Baruntse-Makalu Expedition 2008 Spring - Peter Gschwendtner

  On 26 April Alpiger, Gschwendtner, Imstepf, Keller, Volken, Zeiter, Lil (Lila) Bahadur Tamang and Prem Lhakpa Sherpa left C2 at 5:30 am. They reached summit between 10:30-11 am. The members stayed on summit for an hour and descended to C1 between 2 pm to 2:30 pm. Next day all of them descended to BC. 

  Juenemann climbed up to 5000m, but his physical condition was not good enough to climb high. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 18 May and will leave on 22 May.


expid: BHRS08101
peakid: BHRS
year: 2008
route1: S Ridge-S Face
nation: UK
leaders: Mick Chapman
sponsor: British Australian Bhrikuti Expedition
ascent1: 2nd
countries: Australia
approach: Besisahar->Dharapani->Koto Meta->Kyang->Phu->Nugura Kharka->Japan BC
bcdate: 2008-05-11
smtdate: 2008-05-14
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2008-05-16
campsites: BC(11/05,5425m),ABC(13/05,5700m),Smt(14/05)
achievment: May be 1st British and Australian to summit
agency: Himalayan Mountain Guides
routememo:
  Abbotts, Allen, Ms. Armitage, Chapman, Fruish, Ms. Koch, Pasang, Lhakpa Tenzi and Mingmar Sherpa left ABC at 6:15 am on 14 May. The team reached summit at 10:30 am, stayed on summit 30 minutes, descended to BC at 3 pm. During summit climb the weather was very cold but good enough for climbing. Could see where they were going and coming. 

  The expedition leader returned Kathmandu on 26 May. Members on 27 from Pokhara and all will leave on 30 May. Chapman said that his expedition collected nine sacks of garbage from BC, scattered all over the places of Japanese expedition of last October. Garbage mainly were cans, food, magazines, etc. Chapman is planning to come back next year to climb in Dolpo.

  Fixed rope 200m on the icy section of 40 degrees just above the ABC.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Sherpa, (09-03-1974), Shukedhara, New Colony, Kathmandu (orig Garima,
      Solu)
    Lhakpa Tenzi Sherpa, (22-12-2031), Lokhim-4, Solu
    Mingmar Sherpa, (04-03-2022), Taksindu-4, Solu


expid: CHWT08201
peakid: CHWT
year: 2008
route1: S Face (about 70m ridge)
nation: Japan
leaders: Michihiro Honda
sponsor: Team Honda Dream Project 2008 - Takphu Himal Expedition 2008
ascent1: 2nd
approach: (see route notes)
bcdate: 2008-07-24
smtdate: 2008-08-05
smttime: 0749
termdate: 2008-08-08
campsites: BC(24/07,4700m),C1(28/07,5100m),C2(04/08,5700m),Smt(05/08)
achievment: 2nd ascent
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Approach: Simikot, Ghorepani, Kermi, Ralbang, Thumikot, Thade Dhunga, Hilsa, Manepani, Thirugaon, Jang, Thakche, Three more camps

  BC  at rocky area
  ABC north of the mountain, far from the base of mountain
  C1  on the glacier far from the base of mountain
  C2  at base of East Ridge of mountain.

  Honda, Kadotani, Kato, Kodama, Suzuki, Phura Chhiri, Ram Kaji, Dirga Sing and Hai Bahadur left C2 at 4:30 am. The team reached summit at 7:49 am, stayed on summit for an hour, descended to C2 at 12 noon then continued to C1 at 3 pm and slept there. Next day to BC. The weather was very good. The expedition got permit to climb "Thakphu" peak, but the villagers of Halje did not allow the team to go to Thakphu due to superstition that if people climb that mountain peak villagers will suffer from natural disasters like landslides, etc. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 14 Aug evening from Nepalgunj and leaving on different dates. Kodama on 17th, Hondama & Suzuki on 18th, Kaotami on 21st and Kato on 22 Aug. 

  Sherpas:
    Phurba Chhiri Sherpa, 4/10/68 (19/6/2025) Saframa, Lokhim-9
      Ever X5, Cho Oyu X2, Anna IV, Bhrikuti, Manaslu X2, Lhotse X2, K2, Ama Dablam
    Ram Kaji Tamang, (10 June 1977), Deusa, Solu-6
      Hunchi in Spring 2003 with Takashi Siro
    Dirga Sing Tamang, (26/09/1967) 10/6/2024, Chimding, Kerung-5, Solu
      Cho Oyu 2007 Oct with Okura
      Ama Dablam - 99 Oct with Konishi
    Hari Bahadur Chalagain, 25/12/71 (10/9/2028), Gairigaun, Makalu-2
      Everest Spring 24/5/2008 with Yamamoto
      Chako (Manang) 2007 with Hisi

  Kodama and Suzuki skied down from summit to C2.


expid: DHA108102
peakid: DHA1
year: 2008
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner
sponsor: International Dhaulagiri Expedition
ascent1: 132
countries: Germany
bcdate: 2008-04-12
smtdate: 2008-05-01
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2008-05-05
othersmts: Attempted Lhotse (LHOT-081-11)
campsites: BC(12/04,4700m),Biv1(28/04,6050m),Biv2(29/04,6400m),Biv4(30/04,7350m),Smt(01/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  International Dhaulagiri Expedition led by Mrs Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner - 6 May 2008

  The team arrived at BC at 4700m on 12 April. They pitched no fixed camps above BC, but instead had a series of bivouacs as they moved up and down the mountain with one small tent.

  Their first bivouac was made at 5850m, a little above the NE Col, on 19 April. The next day they made their second bivouac at 6400m on the NE Ridge, and on the 21st their third bivouac was on the ridge at 6750m.

  They descended to BC on the 22nd. Goettler had needed to acclimatize and they both went down to rest. The wind was getting a bit strong at this time.

  On the 28th they started their push for the summit. They bivouacked that night at 6050m on the NE Ridge and returned to 6750m ot bivouac the next night. On the 30th they reached 7350m on the ridge for their next bivouac; this was about 2 hours below the beginning of the traverse across the North Face.

  On 1 May they made their final ascent to the summit. They left the bivouac at 3:00 am, made the traverse to the small couloir, climbed the couloir to the summit ridge, where they turned left and reached the top at 12:00 noon. They had followed tracks from the traverse through the couloir which they believe had been made by the Czech climber, Martin Minarik, on 23 April. He was the first to climb the summit this spring, and tracks made last autumn could not have survived the winter weather.

  They stayed on the summit about half an hour in light wind. But by the time they had descended to 7800m the wind was blowing so much snow in the air that they could not see where to start the traverse. They had to sit for about 45 minutes until they were able to see the route ahead.

  They descended all the way to BC, which they reached at 3:00 am of the 2 May.


expid: DHA108103
peakid: DHA1
year: 2008
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Edurne Pasaban
sponsor: Al Filo Dhaulagiri Expedition
ascent1: 133
countries: Colombia, Ecuador
bcdate: 2008-01-04
smtdate: 2008-05-01
smttime: 1215
termdate: 2008-04-05
campsites: BC(04/04,4650m),C1(11/04,5850m),C2(18/04,6775m),C3(30/04,7400m),Smt(01/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at NE Col
  C2 on NE Ridge
  C3 on NE Ridge.

  2 members and Muktu Sherpa left C3 at 2:40 am and other 5 members and 1 Sherpa at 3:40 am. Made traverse on North Face to small couloir, up couloir and left to top. Vallejo and Gonzalez-Rubio on top 12:15 pm and Latorre and Oruiz at same time, while other members and Muktu at 1:15 pm. Quite windy and first summiters had to wait for wind to let snow settle a bit so could see where the traverse route was; for second group no such problem.

  Rope fixed: 200m BC to C1, 200m C2 to C3, 100m on traverse beyond C3. 

  Vallejo's Dhaulagiri summit was his last 8000er and when he got to top he raised both arms above his head with his ice axe in one hand and ice hammer in other and sobbed.

  Sherpas:
    Muktu Lhakpa, 2/8/72, Tashigaon, Makalu, Everest X2, K2 X1
    Pasang Temba, 20/1/83, Makalu-5, no 8000ers [Ever X1]
      (reached C3 but did not join summit push because had bad headache and 
      stayed in camp)


expid: DHA108104
peakid: DHA1
year: 2008
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Carlos Pauner
sponsor: Spanish Dhaulagiri I 2008
ascent1: 135
approach: (see route notes)
bcdate: 2008-04-05
smtdate: 2008-05-01
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2008-05-05
othersmts: Attempted Lhotse (LHOT-081-10)
campsites: BC(05/04,4700m),C1(11/04,5800m),C2(19/04,6800m),C3(30/04,7400m),Smt(01/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Approach: Beni (bus)->Myagdi Khola->Italian BC (porters trapped by snow), helicopter to Pkr

  C1 at NE Col
  C2 higher than normal for C2 on NE Ridge
  C3 on NE Ridge.

  Spanish Dhaulagiri Expedition - 9 May 2008 led by Carlos Pauner

  Team pitched C1 at 5800m on Dhaulagiri I's NE Col on 11 April. On the 12th they descended to BC, and now the weather was not very good. They returned to C1 on the 17th and on the 19th established C2 on the NE Ridge at 6800m, higher than the normal site. On the 20th they returned to BC to rest.

  They began their summit push on 28 April, when they went up from BC to C1, on the 29th to C2, and on the 30th C3 was made at 7400m on the ridge. Only Alejandre and Pauner went to C3 because Perez had not felt well at C2 and went down to BC instead.

  Alejandre and Pauner left C3 for the top at 3:00 am. Pauner reached the summit at 2:00 pm, while Alejandre, who was not so strong, got there only at 4:00 pm. Pauner was back in C3 at 5:00 pm, but Alejandre took 13 hours to return to camp (at 3:00 am on 2 May). Alejandre had frostbite on one finger: this was her first 8000er and she had little experience with high altitude. The two summiters descended to BC together and arrived there at 8:00 pm.

  Alejandre's frostbite was the team's only serious health problem. She returned to Spain on 8 May, but Pauner and Perez helicoptered to Gorak Shep on the 13th to climb Lhotse.

  Fixed rope: 600m from C2 to C3.


expid: DHA108105
peakid: DHA1
year: 2008
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Kinga Baranowska
sponsor: Polish Women's Team Dhaulagiri 2008
ascent1: 138
approach: Pokhara->Jomsom->Marpha->Yak Kharka->Hidden Valley->French Pass
bcdate: 2008-04-09
smtdate: 2008-05-01
smttime: 1515
termdate: 2008-05-06
campsites: BC(09/04,4700m),C1(11/04,5800m),C2(18/04,6800m),C3(30/04,7300m),Smt(01/05)
accidents: Minor frostbite in right toe Sklowdowska suffered from high fever for four days in BC
achievment: 1st Polish woman to summit
agency: Iceland Trekking (Tendi)
routememo:
  Baranowska and Sklodowska left C3 at 3:45 am on 1 May. Sklodowska turned back to C2 from about 100m below [above?] C3 as she was tired. Baranowska reached summit at 3:15 pm, stayed on summit about 15 minutes, descended to C3 around midnight. Next day descended to C1 and following day to BC. Summit day was very windy and very cold, one Catalan and one Argentinean also summited. Baranowska helped both climbers (Catalan & Argentinean). While descending as both of them were without headlamps. Baranowska was on summit together with Marta (Spanish woman). About 15 climbers summited on 1 May. 

  Sklodowska was weak due to antibiotics which she took while she had fever in BC. Also, she got news of passing away of her mother during the expedition.

  The team returned to Kathmandu from BC by helicopter on 6 May and trying to leave on 8 or 9 May. Baranowska planning to go for Gasherbrum I or Manaslu, next year.


expid: DHA108106
peakid: DHA1
year: 2008
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: David Ferrer
sponsor: Himalaia Maestrat to Dhaulagiri I
ascent1: 140
approach: Helicopter from Jomsom to BC
bcdate: 2008-04-14
smtdate: 2008-05-01
smttime: 1545
termdate: 2008-05-05
campsites: BC(14/04,4700m),C1(18/04),C2(22/04,6750m),C3(30/04,7400m),Smt(01/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at NE Col
  C2 on NE Ridge under serac
  C3 on NE Ridge.

  Himalaya Maestrat to Dhaulagiri I (Ferrer & Morales) - 7 May 2008

  After having pitched C1 on the NE Col at about 5900m on 18 April, the team went down to BC to rest. On the 21st they went back to C1 and on the 22nd made C2 at 6750m on the NE Ridge. Again they descended to BC on the 23rd.

  On 28 April the team left BC for their summit push and were in C3 on the 30th. On 1 May three of them set out for the summit while Pallares, who was not feeling well, remained in C3. The summit party left C3 at 3:00 am, but Ferrer also started feeling unwell at 7700m and returned to C3. Guillen went up to just 7750m with Dario Bracali, leader of the Argentinian expedition, and then, at 7:30 am, Guillens's feet were very cold and he, too, went back to C3, which he reached at 10:00 am. There were now three members in C3, but soon Ferrer and Pallares went down to C1 while Guillen remained in C3 to rest and to wait for Morales to return, and he slept that night in C3.

  That left just one member, Morales, to continue to the top, which he reached at 3:45 pm. He explained that he climbed slowly because this was his first time on an 8000er, and he was enjoying every moment of his new experience -- "I was very happy," he said twice -- and not bothering to look at his watch; he took his time to enjoy the view and his surroundings and his successful climb.

  Morales returned to C3 slowly also and was not back in camp until 3:45 am on 2nd May. He felt very fit at the time and had no frostbite. At 9:00 am he and Guillen began their descent from C3. But now Morales was feeling extremely tired -- so very tired that he could hardly stand on his feet. Two Czech climbers, Radek Jaros and Zdenek Hruby, helped him go down to C2 while Guillen, who felt fine, went down ahead of them.

  Ferrer came up from C1 and met Morales and Czech at 4:00 pm at 6900m. At this time, Guillen, rappelling down, fell from about 30 meters above them; perhaps he was so tired that he didn't clip on properly. He fell down the North Face and his body could not be seen from the ridge. Ferrer and Morales slept in C2 that night and returned to BC on 3 May.


expid: DHA108107
peakid: DHA1
year: 2008
route1: W Face (to 4900m)
route2: NE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Valeri Babanov
sponsor: Russian Dhaulagiri Expedition
ascent1: 134
bcdate: 2008-03-22
smtdate: 2008-05-01
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2008-05-06
campsites: BC(22/03,3400m),Biv1(28/04,5800m),Biv2(29/04,6850m),Biv3(30/04,7400m),Smt(01/05)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Italian BC
  C1 at series of bivouacs.

  Russian Dhaulagiri Expedition led by Valeri Babanov  - 11 May 2008

  The team made their BC on 22 March at 3400m at the low (northern) BC site known as the Italian base camp with the plan to acclimatize on the normal, NE Ridge route and then make a new route up the left side of the huge West Face via the West Buttress.

  On the next day they went to 5000m at the bottom of SW Pillar to see the best line up the face. They spent the night in a bivouac there, then down to their BC and rested.

  On 26 March they took some gear and went to the normal base camp site (the site for expeditions on the normal NE Ridge route) at 4700m. On the 30th, with Czech climber Martin Minarik they climbed the ridge to acclimatize and bivouacked at 5600m and on the 31st they bivouacked at 6000m on the ridge. Now there was a lot of snow, and they descended to normal base camp on 1 April.

  On 2 April, they went to the Italian base camp, where they had most of their supplies. They left their BC on 7 April and returned to normal base camp.

  Again they went up the NE Ridge. On the 9th they bivouacked at the normal C1 site at 5800m; on the 10th to 6700-6800m, normal C2 site; on the 11th to a low C3 site, 7100m. On the 12th they were back in normal base camp, and on the 13th back in Italian base camp.

  Now they wanted to tackle the West Face. However, the weather was windy and snow was falling, so they had to wait for better weather.

  On 18 April they tried to make their route up the West Face starting with the West Buttress. They started from 3700m at the bottom of the face and climbed the buttress on rock and grass to 4400m, where they bivouacked. The next day they found an impassable barrier: a huge canyon barred their way. They got up to 4900m in their search for a way around the canyon, but could find none. "We were very disappointed," Babanov said. They descended to their BC that day.

  Babanov said they should have taken a different line to the west of the buttress and thus avoided the canyon. But they could not see the canyon from BC.

  On the 20th they decided to abandon the face and climb to the summit via the NE Ridge. They rested in Italian base camp for two days, then went back to normal base camp on the 23rd. (This was the day Minarik went to the summit -- Babanov has no doubt he summited: Babanov saw his summit pictures.)

  Weather forecasts said they would have good conditions on 1 May, so they joined other teams on the 28th to start for the summit. They bivouacked at 5800m on the 28th at the NE Col, at 6800-6900m on the 29th on the NE Ridge, at 7400m on the 30th on the ridge, and on the 1st of May went to the top.

  The two men left their last bivouac at 6:30 am -- later than the other teams because it was windy and they had time to wait for the sun to take some of the chill off the wind. Totmyanin reached the summit at 12:30 pm while Babanov went to the top with Carlos Pauner at 1:30 pm. Totmyanin was back in their tent at 4:00 pm, and Babanov joined him half an hour later.

  They returned to normal base camp on the 2nd and to Italian base camp on the 3rd. They left their BC on the 6th to trek to Beni and were back in Kathmandu on the 8th.

  The team had no Sherpas or oxygen with them, fixed no rope. They had no health problems.

  Babanov would like one day to make another attempt on the West Face, where there is a good, logical line.


expid: DHA108108
peakid: DHA1
year: 2008
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Zdenek Hruby
sponsor: Dhaulagiri & Annapurna Czech Expedition 2008
ascent1: 137
bcdate: 2008-04-09
smtdate: 2008-05-01
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2008-05-05
othersmts: Climbed Makalu (MAKA-081-07)
campsites: BC(09/04,4620m),C1(11/04,5850m),C2(18/04,6650m),C3A(21/04,7050m),C3B(30/04,7300m),Smt(01/05)
agency: Iceland Trekking (Tendi)
routememo:
  Dhaulagiri & Annapurna Czech Expedition, led by Zdenek Hruby - 9 May 2008

  The team intended to go first to Dhaulagiri I and then to Annapurna I.

  On Dhaulagiri they planned to acclimatize on the normal NE Ridge route and set up camps there for their descent, then go to the East Face and summit via the face in alpine style.

  On 12 April, after having pitched C1 at 5850m on the NE Col the day before, they went up to 6300m to have a good look at the face. They saw that it was in bad condition: there were many big seracs, and the face was covered with a lot of snow instead of the ice which they had expected. They went down to BC that day, the 12th.

  On the 17th they climbed again to C1 and on the 18th made C2 at 6650m on the NE Ridge. Three days later, on the 21st, they occupied C3 on the ridge at 7050m, a low altitude for the camp because there was heavy snowfall now. They spent a "difficult" night there because of strong (100 km/hr) wind and the necessity to go out and clear snow off their tent several times during the night.

  On the 22nd they again looked at the East Face and saw that it was too full of snow; it would be impossible for them to climb it in one continuous ascent in alpine style through its chest-deep snow. They returned to BC.

  They decided on the 24th that they would continue their ascent to the summit by the NE Ridge. On the 28th they went up to C1, on the 29th to C2, on the 30th they moved their C3 up to 7300m, and on 1 May they went to the summit.

  They left C3 on 1 May at 3:30 am, followed the same line as all other summiters that day along the traverse on the North Face, up the couloir and left to the summit. Jaros was on the top at 2:00 pm and Hruby at 2:40 pm. Jaros was back in C3 at 6:00 pm and Hruby at 6:30 pm.

  On 2 May they left C3 at 9:00 am. While descending at 4:00 pm they met two members of David Ferrer's Spanish team, Rafael Guillen and Jesus Morales, who "were out of power" and needed help. Jaros went on down rapidly to fetch help while Hruby stayed with them. Guillen, "extremely weak," fell [to his death] at 6800m. Jaros and Hruby reached BC at 10:00 pm.

  The team fixed no ropes -- most were fixed by Spanish teams.

  They had no serious health problems. Hruby got one slightly frostbitten toe, and Jaros fell 50m when he was at 7900m because he briefly lost concentration and a crampon tangled with his down trousers, but he was unhurt and continued climbing.

  The team left BC on 5 May with other Dhaulagiri teams in a helicopter to Pokhara. The Czechs stayed in Pokhara waiting for their baggage to join them and to receive word from their trekking agent in Kathmandu about their being included on some other agent's permit for Annapurna I, which they wanted to go to directly. But their telephone connections with Kathmandu was not good, and on 8 May they came to Kathmandu in person to find out what the situation was. They learned that they would have to pay for their own permit, and in the end they decided to leave on 14 May by helicopter to Makalu instead.


expid: DHA108109
peakid: DHA1
year: 2008
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Ricardo Jimenez Zori
sponsor: Spaniards on Dhaulagiri I
ascent1: 136
approach: Jomsom->Marpha->Beni->Dharapani->Doban->Italian BC->Japanese BC
bcdate: 2008-04-24
smtdate: 2008-05-01
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2008-05-04
campsites: BC(24/04,4700m),C1(26/04,5800m),C2(28/04,6700m),C3(30/04,7400m),Smt(01/05)
agency: Ramdung Expedition
routememo:
  Jimenez Zori and Kaila Tamang left C3 at 2 am on 1 May, reached summit at 2 pm, stayed about 5 minutes, descended to C3 around 9 pm. Next day to BC. The weather was very windy and very cold. 14 climbers summited on that day. 

  De Pou Rivas climbed up to 6400m on 28 April. He started vomiting and had headache. He turned around and slept in C2. Next day to BC. 

  The team returned Kathmandu from BC by helicopter on 4 May and will leave on 6 May (afternoon).

  Fixed rope: contributed 200m.

  "Sherpa:"
    Kaila Tamang, (1967-68), Thulo Parsel-9, Kavre
      Summited Cho Oyu in 2007 with Spanish team (Sherpa information from agency)

accidents:
  Jimenej Zori fell 2 May into a crevasse near C1 about shoulder deep (hurt his right knee), he was pulled out by his Nepali climber Tamang from crevasse; De Pou Rivas got high altitude sickness


expid: DHA108110
peakid: DHA1
year: 2008
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Alberto Magliano
sponsor: Elana's Dhaulagiri Expedition 2008
approach: Beni to Daban by bus->Doban->Italian BC
bcdate: 2008-04-23
smtdate: 2008-05-03
termdate: 2008-05-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(23/04,4500m),C1(26/04,5700m),C2(28/04,6700m),xxx(03/05,6700m)
agency: Sherpa Alpine Trekking
routememo:
  Magliano and Kancha Sherpa were in C2 on 3 May waiting for good weather to go to higher camp (C3). Weather remained bad; then Magliano decided to give up further climbing, so descended to BC. Magliano left BC by helicopter to Kathmandu on 5 May and left Nepal on 7 May.

  Sherpa:
    Kancha Sherpa, 23/1/81 (10/10/2037), Mopung, Beni-5, no 8000ers


expid: DHA108111
peakid: DHA1
year: 2008
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Anna Czerwinska
sponsor: Sladami Dhaulagiri 2008 - Wanda Rutkiewicz
bcdate: 2008-04-13
smtdate: 2008-05-09
termdate: 2008-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 7150m due to heavy snowfall and avalanche danger
campsites: BC(13/04,4750m),C1(18/04,5580m),C2(22/04,6700m),xxx(09/05,7150m)
accidents: Natkanski breathing problem only
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at NE Col
  C2 on NE Ridge
  High point on NE Ridge.

  Sladami Dhaulagiri 2008 - Wanda Rukkiewicz, led by Anna Czerwinska - 19 May 2008

  All members were in C2 on 9 May when Czerwinska went up to leave a deposit gear at 7200m, the site for their C3. But she reached only 7150m, left the gear there and returned to C2. There was heavy snowfall during the night, and next day while the other members descended to BC, she tried to go up to 7150m.

  However the next day, the 10th it was windy, and climbing completely alone, she was not strong enough: in one hour she had gained only perhaps 100m altitude. She gave up and went down to BC, where the other members were waiting for her. While descending, she started several avalanches: snow conditions were dangerous.

  They agreed that the climb was finished. So the teams high point was Czerwinska's climb to 7150m on the 9th.

  Their only health problem was Natkanski's difficulty in breathing on 8 May while he was in C2 -- not a very serious problem, but enough for him to need oxygen. The team had one oxygen bottle with them, but it was in BC, so they borrowed a bottle from a Japanese woman climber, and on the 9th he was well enough to descend to BC by himself.

  Fixed rope: 100m at crevasses


expid: DHA108112
peakid: DHA1
year: 2008
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Kazakhstan
leaders: Alexy Raspopov
sponsor: Dhaulagiri 2008
countries: Russia, Ukraine
bcdate: 2008-04-20
smtdate: 2008-05-01
termdate: 2008-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to Popovich's head cold and dangerous snow conditions
campsites: BC(20/04,4700m),C1(24/04,5700m),C2(30/04,6700m),xxx(01/05,7400m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at NE Col
  C2 at NE Ridge.

  Dhaulagiri 2008, led by Alexy Raspopov - 19 May 2008

  The team made C1 on 24th April and went down to BC on the 26th. On the 29th they went up again from BC to C1 and on 30th made C2 at 6700m. The next day, 1 May, they made a deposit of supplies at the site for C3 at 7400m and returned to C2, and on 2 May descended to BC after this normal acclimatization climb.

  On 7 May, all three members plus Pemba Sherpa left BC and reached C1. They stayed an extra day in C1 because Popovich had gotten a head cold in BC, and they hoped it would get better. But on the 9th his cold became worse as he climbed, and there was more snowfall, which meant avalanche danger. So on the 9th they brought C2 and its contents to C1. The climb was now finished. 

  This was a commercial expedition with Popovich as the client of Kushnir and Raspopov; they were not there for the two guides to climb the mountain. Besides, the snow conditions were too dangerous. On the 10th they brought everything down to BC and left BC on the 14th.

  The only health problems were Popovich's head cold, and the emergence of one of Pemba's wisdom teeth on the 24th of April. Pemba Wangchu's tooth gave him swollen gums, a bad headache and difficulty in swallowing. Back in BC Pemba, who was 24 years old, took antibiotics and recovered in a few days.

  The team had oxygen with them, but intended to use it only above C3. It was not used.

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Wangchu Sherpa, 30/12/83, Kharikhola, no 8000ers


expid: DHA108113
peakid: DHA1
year: 2008
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Lithuania
leaders: Saulius Vilius
sponsor: Lithuanian Dhaulagiri Expedition 2008
approach: Beni->Durban->Vardang->French Pass->Italian BC
bcdate: 2008-04-25
smtdate: 2008-05-18
termdate: 2008-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to bad weather, and Vilius also got news of passing away of his father
campsites: BC(25/04,5600m),C1(30/04,6600m),C2(31/04,6800m),C3(17/05,7300m),xxx(18/05,7300m)
accidents: Matukas got sick at BC and was evacuated by helicopter on 11 May
agency: Ang Rita Treks
routememo:
  Dhaulagiri I Spring 2008 - Saulius Vilius (Lithuania)

  Vilius leader of the expedition and Jangbu were at C3 on 17 May, planning to go to summit on 18 May. In the morning of 18th they find difficulty to get out of tent because it was buried under snow. There was snowfall whole night of 17 May. Snowfall stopped at midnight of 18th the day was heavily cloudy and in the afternoon started thunderstorms. On 19 May Vilius and Nawang Jangbu descended to C1 and that night too there was snowfall. They managed to get to BC on 20th in a very bad snow conditions due to continuous snowfall. 

  Ms. Bickuniene and Kalvelis went to C2 on 17th; she was weak and did no further
    climbing. 
  Ms. Jasinskaite went up to C1; she had stomach problem. 
  Marksaitis went up to C2 on 17 May; he was very tired. 
  Matukas went up to C2 on 30 April; he got sick on 10 May evening at BC and
    evacuated by helicopter to Kathmandu on 11 May. 
  Egidijus Mockus went up to C2 on 17 May, but it was difficult for him. 
  Rimvydas Mockus went up to C2 on 30 April; he accompanied Matukas to Kathmandu. 
  Simanauskas went up to C2 on 30 April. 
  Ms. Tolpezninkaite remained at BC. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 28 May. Vilius will leave on 31 May; rest of the members on 2 June.

  Sherpas:
    Nawang Jangbu Sherpa, 16/2/1975 (04/11/2031), Yilajung/Thamiteng, Cho Oyu 2/10/07
    Dawa Sherpa, (7/2019) 17-10 to 15-11, 1962, Taksindu-7, no 8000ers 


expid: DHA108114
peakid: DHA1
year: 2008
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Giuseppe Pompili
sponsor: Dhaulagiri Expedition 2008
bcdate: 2008-04-23
smtdate: 2008-05-07
termdate: 2008-05-10
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to bad weather, too much snow above C3
campsites: BC(23/04,4750m),C1(26/04,5700m),C2(28/04,6700m),C3(07/05,7400m),xxx(07/05,7400m)
agency: Sherpa Alpine Trekking
routememo:
  Dal Cin and Pompili reached C3 on 7 May for summit push on 8 May. The weather was bad, snowing all the time. They found lots of snow above C3. Pompili went down to BC from C3. Dal Cin wanted to got to summit with Polish team. The Polish team decided to stay one more day in C3. Dal Cin decided to go down and gave up summit climbing. Then descended to BC. 

  Ms. Allegrini and Lucchi went up to C2 (6700m) on 28 April and also spent night on 3 May. They found it difficult to climb further up and gave up. They left BC on 7 May. 

  Borca climbed up to C1 on 26 April. It was difficult for him to climb. He left BC on 6 or 7 May. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 17 May. Ms Allegrini and Lucchi leaving on 19 May; rest on 20 or 21 May.


expid: DHA108115
peakid: DHA1
year: 2008
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Chieko Shimada
sponsor: Independent on Dhaulagiri I
approach: Bus to Beni->Tatopani->Ghasa->Marpha->by helicopter
bcdate: 2008-04-21
smtdate: 2008-05-06
termdate: 2008-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to snowfall
campsites: BC(21/04,4700m),C1(24/04,5700m),C2(30/04,6650m),xxx(06/05,6700m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  On 6 May Ms Shimada, Man Bahadur and Lobsang wanted to go to C3 from C2. They reached 6700m.  Then started snow falling, it was not possible for the team to continue climbing and turned around to C2. Descended to BC on 8 May. The team returned to Kathmandu on 14 May and will leave on 5 June. 

  The team had problems while going to BC from Marpha. Porters came from Pokhara on 29 March, carried loads to Yak Kharka and refused to go beyond due to deep snow. Returned to Marpha on 1 April. Another lot of porters started from Marpha on 13 April to Yak Kharka. They too refused to go beyond, then returned to Marpha on 14. Finally the team managed to get helicopter on 21 April.

  Fixed rope: 7000m above C2.

  "Sherpas:"
    Lobsang Sherpa, 27/6/85 (13/03/2042), Kharikhola, Everest X1
    Man Bahadur Gurung


expid: DHA108116
peakid: DHA1
year: 2008
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Ryszard Pawlowski
sponsor: Dhaulagiri 2008
ascent1: 141
approach: Pokhara->Jomsom by plane->Yak Kharka->French Pass
bcdate: 2008-04-15
smtdate: 2008-05-11
campsites: BC(15-16/04,4800m),C1(17/04,5900m),C2(18/04,6800m),C3A(30/04,7200m),C3B(10/05,7400m),Smt(11/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Dhaulagiri 2008 - Spring Ryszard Pawlowski

  Pawlowski and Snopczynski trekked to BC and arrived on 16 April. Hajzer and Szymczak left upper C3 at 2:30 am on 11 May, reached summit at 2:30 pm, stayed there for 20 minutes and descended to upper C3 at 9 pm. Next day descended to BC. Weather in the morning was clear but after 12 noon started snowfall, windy and cloudy. Most of the days weather condition was not good during expedition period. 

  Hajzer returned to Kathmandu from BC by helicopter on 14 May and will leave on 16 May. Szymczak left BC on 15 May and returned Kathmandu on 21 May and to leave on 25 May. But he left to Annapurna on 22 May to join the rescue team for Ochoa. Szymczak returned to Kathmandu from Annapurna on 26 and will leave on 28 May.

  Pawlowski and Snopczynski put fix ropes till 7000m on 21 April and descended to BC. They returned to Kathmandu on 10 May and will leave on 11 May. Pawlowski has to go to South America leading a group.

  Hajzer and Szymczak reached BC by helicopter from Jomsom on 15 April. 

  Kaszycki, returned from Yak Kharka, reached Kathmandu probably on 21 April and left on 24 April. He did not feel well and also lack of time.


expid: DHA108117
peakid: DHA1
year: 2008
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Argentina
leaders: Dario Bracali
sponsor: Argentinean Dhaulagiri I Expedition
ascent1: 139
approach: Beni->Durban->Dharapani->Mori->Bagar->Doban->Italian BC
bcdate: 2008-04-17
smtdate: 2008-05-01
smttime: 1530
termdate: 2008-05-07
campsites: BC(17/04,5637m),C1(21/04,5830m),C2(29/04,6769m),C3(30/04,7470m),Smt(01/05)
achievment: 3rd Argentinean to summit Dhaulagiri
agency: Chomolungma Pilgrimage
routememo:
  Argentinean Dhaulagiri I Expedition 2008 Spring - Dario Bracali

  Bracali, Cura, Glass and Vitry reached C3 on 30 April planning to go to summit on 1 May. On arriving at C3 Cura realized that his last three fingers of right hand became senseless. During the night the frostbitten fingers of Cura started paining and it was unbearable besides it was very uncomfortable in the tent. They were sharing a two-man tent.

  On 1 May, Bracali and Vitry left C3 at 2 am for summit. Bracali turned around to C3 from about 7800m due to exhaustion. When Bracali reached C3 at about 11:30 am, Cura left C3 accompanied by Glass. Glass said that they had to descend very slowly due to bad weather and arrived at C2 about 4 pm. Cura's three fingers were already black and other fingers too started getting cold. Then Cura and Glass descended to C1 where they arrived around 8 pm, spent night there and next day to BC where the Polish doctor gave him antibiotics and injections. Cura left BC on 5 May with Spanish (Pasaban) team by helicopter to Kathmandu and left on 7 May.

  Vitry reached summit at about 3:30 pm. He stayed on summit about 15 minutes. On the summit there were Spanish woman (Marta), Polish woman (Kinga) Baranowska and once Catalan (Jesus). All four descended together to C3, Vitry reached C3 between 2-3 am of 2 May. Bracali was waiting for Vitry in the tent. The Catalan climber was nervously asking Vitry to help him while descending from the summit. While helping him on rope Vitry lost his right hand glove. The day was very windy and cold. On 3 May, Bracali left C3 at 2 am for summit. He did not return to camp and nobody has seen him. He was alone on the mountain and nobody has gone up on that day. Vitry waiting for Bracali at C3 and he got a message from Spanish expedition leader to leave the camp immediately as weather is going to be very bad. Then Vitry left C3 at about 4 pm. On the way down he had to bivouac between C3 and C2 (about 7100m) because he could not see the route.

  Lithuanian expedition leader Saulius Vilius (C1) told that on 5 May he got a call in the evening from Italian expedition leader and asked about two Argentinean climbers missing at C3. Vilius immediately informed his two climbers at C2 to look for the two missing Argentineans. After a while three Sherpas from Italian expedition arrived at C1 to rescue the missing climbers. But they refused to go up and started negotiating through radio for their reward money and that they would not go beyond C2. Vilius further said that they saw somebody coming down from C3 to C2 but the descending person was heading towards wrong direction. Then, Vilius immediatedly asked his two members in C2 to go up and to help the person who was descending. The two Lithuanian climbers, Ernestas Marksaitis and Egidijus Mockus, after two hours of climbing above C2 finally been able to bring the badly exhausted and frostbitten Argentinean climber Vitry back to right trail and to C2 where the Italian expedition Sherpas were waiting for him. On 6 May with the help of two Sherpas Vitry arrived BC. At the BC the Polish Doctor gave him injection and medication. Almost all the fingertips except thumbs of Vitry were frostbitten and also his forehead skin was frostbitten. The team, Glass, and Vitry left BC on 7 May by helicopter to Italian BC. On 8 May they were taken to Pokhara by the returning helicopter on which two member of HRA search team of Bracali arrived in Swiss BC. Glass and Vitry returned Kathmandu on the same day from Pokhara. They were trying to leave on 11 May.

  According to Padam Ghale, leader of Dario Bracali search team comprising four members, was sent by HRA on request of Global Rescue, USA through Ace the Himalaya, Kathmandu. The search operation was financed by the insurance company of Bracali. The search taem found lots of foodstuff, some climbing equipments, and clothing and cash Rs 10,500 in C1 on 11 May. Search team leader Ghale made arrangement with Nima Tshiring Sherpa of World Record Trekking, who was in C3, to look for the Argentinean tent and to bring down the things inside it. Nima Tshiring brought down to BC some climbing gears, clothes and walkie-talkie set on 13 May. The search team returned Kathmandu on 14 May. It is not possible to find the missing Argentinean alive due to dangerous mountain ridge, high altitude and strong wind.

  The search team (as listed on the Monterosa web site) consisted of 4 Spaniards:
    Ruben Jimenez Gomez
    Fernando G. Castillo
    Carlos S. Pascual
    Juan A. L. Lecumberri


expid: EVER08101
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Li Zhi-Xin
sponsor: Olympic Torch Expedition
smtdate: 2008-05-07
campsites: BC(5300m),C1(5800m),C2.ABC(6500m),C3(7028m),C4(7990m),C5(8300m),Smt(07-08/05)
agency: Chinese Mountaineering Association
routememo:
  Everest 2008 - Olympic Torch Expedition

  The reports below are paraphrased from news reports from various Chinese news services and web sites.


  Five Stops to the Top

  (Qomolangma Base Camp, Tibet, May 7) -- For veteran reporter Zhao Mu, Mt. Qomolangma is an old friend. This is the fifth time that he has made his way to the base camp of the world's summit. In 1988, he covered the Mount Qomolangma joint mountaineering effort made by China, Japan, and Nepal as a reporter from People's Daily. Five years later, in 2003, he joined the SOHU Qomolangma expedition. And recently in 2005 and 2007, he climbed Mt. Qizi and Mt. Yuzhu, respectively.

  Zhao briefly introduced the five camps along the usual path up to Mount Qomolangma's apex -- Advanced Base Camp, North Col, Camp IV, Attack Camp, and Summit.

  "Each meter higher brings different feelings, but at the same time, greater danger," Zhao explained quietly, solemnly looking up at the summit from Base Camp.

  Advanced Base Camp (6500m above sea level) -- the start point for mountaineers

  The Mount Qomolangma Base Camp located 5145m might be the final destination for most tourists, but for a mountaineer, the 6500m Advanced Base Camp is just the starting point.

  Advanced Base Camp is usually built at the height of 6500m, but due to the large size of the group, the Chinese Mountaineering Team had to choose the height of 6400m to set up their tents.

  "My coach used to tell me that cars could help us to Base Camp and yaks could get us to Advanced Base Camp, but after that, we have to use our own legs," said Zhao. "So, North Col is actually the real start of severe challenges for a mountaineer."

  North Col (7028m) -- the great ice wall that buries heroes.

  Zhao spoke much about North Col, telling many sad tales of events that had happened here, including the tragedy of the first UK mountaineering team, the seven Sherpa coordinators, as well as the three members of a Chinese mountaineering team in the 70s. At the North Col, a 400m wall of ice and snow stands before all mountaineers.

  "However, today, we are much better equipped and prepared to conquer this barrier," said Zhao, much relieved.

  Camp IV (7790m) -- the big wind gap that holds back birds
  From the shape of the snow piles at Camp IV, it is evident that winds blow to the west here all year long. Instead of snow, wind is the biggest threat at this point. "The winds here can reach level 23. Even birds can't get through, not to mention humans," said Zhao.

  To some extent, Camp IV is like a transitional camp. It is usually used as a station for material transfer or a stop during back and forth trainings.

  Attack Camp (8300m) -- the place where dreams fly.

  Usually, Attack Camp on the traditional North Slope route is located at the altitude of 8300m. This height is within eyesight of Base Camp and a little lower than the area called the "yellow belt" (ranging from 8300m to 8600m). However, there are always exceptions. For example, the Attack Camp of the mountaineering team made of Chinese, Japanese, and Nepalese was located over 8500m.

  It is considerably difficult for people to climb up to any altitude above 8000m. But it is comparatively easy to move up from 7790m to 8300m, for the geomorphology between these two points is a zone of mixed-ice, which is a little bit safer to climb. Anyone who fights his or her way to Attack Camp is very likely to reach the summit.

  Summit (8844m) -- more difficulties ahead.

  Though Attack Camp is only a small step away from success, there are still two difficulties ahead.

  First, the cross-section; this is the biggest challenge. Mountaineers are faced with the considerable danger of sliding down the cliff.

  Second, some places along the route are vertical, where mountaineers will face snowstorms, hypoxia, and may react to the high altitude.

  After conquering these two difficulties, mountaineers will have the opportunity to take a picture of the grand peak of Mount Qomolangma.

  This event is highly difficult to accomplish; China will be able to complete this arduous task through the efforts of Chinese mountaineers.


  Olympic Torch to be Carried to Mt. Qomolangma along North Slope

  Qomolangma Base Camp, Tibet, May 7 (Xinhua) -- Zhang Zhi-Jian, spokesman for the Chinese Mountaineering Team, reconfirmed on Wednesday that the Beijing Olympic flame will be taken to the top of Mount Qomolangma by the traditional climb route along the north slope.

  It came six days after Sun Bin, chief of the Olympic Torch Relay Center Qomolangma Operations Team, made the same confirmation.

  The Beijing Olympics torch relay is the longest and most ambitious ever planned, traveling 137,000 kilometers across five continents in 130 days. One of the highlights in its global journey is the ascent of the flame over the world's highest mountain that spans Nepal and southwest China's Tibet Autonomous Region.

  The traditional and classic route used by most of the climbers starts from the Base Camp with an altitude of 5200m above sea level, then heads for the Advance Base Camp, known as ABC, at 6500m. It then winds upwards the summit with help of three more camps respectively at 7028, 7790 and 8300m before scaling the top of Mt. Qomolangma.

  According to Sun, there are about 20 routes reaching the top of Mt. Qomolangma, but the traditional route upon the north slope is among the safest ones.

  There are 28 km between the 5200m Base Camp and the 6500m ABC, and from the ABC, there are 20 km to the top.

  "The snowfall several days ago had some impact upon the ascent, now our climbers are busy fixing the damaged facilities," said Zhang. "Yesterday, I heard that they have fixed the 7790m camp, but I'm not sure whether or when they will take further action."

  "If the weather looks good all the time these days, I think I will bring you good news as soon as possible."

  One day earlier, Zhang named a 36-strong team, including 24 ethnic Tibetans, 10 Han Chinese, one from Tu ethnic group and one from Tujia ethnic group.

  But he didn't give any information Wednesday about who will take the final assault, which means not all stands a chance of scaling the top of the Mount Qomolangma.

  "The team is now discussing the final selection but it is still up in the air, but all climbers, no matter being picked or not, will deserve respect as he or she has contributed to the ascent," said Zhang.


  Olympic Flame Atop World's Highest Summit

  (Qomolangma Base Camp, Tibet, May 8, Xinhua) -- Chinese mountaineers carried the Olympic flame to the peak of the world's highest mountain at around 9:10 am (0110 GMT) on May 8, fulfilling the promise Beijing made in its Olympic bid.

  The scaling of 8844.43 meter Mt. Qomolangma, known as Mt. Everest in the West, which straddles Nepal and China's Tibet Autonomous Region, added to what has already been a historic Olympic Torch Relay and bonded mountaineering to the Olympics for the first time since its birth as a sport in 1786.

  A collective triumph of mountaineers and technicians from various Chinese ethnic groups, the Mt. Qomolangma leg of the Torch Relay gave new meaning to the word "higher" in the Olympic motto and to Beijing's concept of a "High-tech Olympics."

  Led by 45-year-old veteran alpinist and head coach Wang Yong-Feng, the squad was composed of 36 members, including three females, some students and five coaches. The average age of the group was 30.2 and each member had climbed to an elevation of at least 6000m before.

  The ascent officially began when the team left Base Camp, which is 5200m above sea level, for the 6500m point 28 kilometers away, said a spokesman. Heavy snowfall on May 2 and 3 halted the climb.

  After the weather turned favorable, the team continued on the remaining 20 kilometers to the summit, stopping at various camps along the way.

  A total of 19 mountaineers were selected from among the squad to bring the Olympic flame from the Attack camp -- at the altitude of 8300m -- to the summit of Mount Qomolangma.

  The summit assault started at around 1:45 am on May 8 and the team reached the peak at 9:10 am.

  Training for the mission began 16 months ago. In November of 2006, over 70 climbers started training both in Beijing's Huairou County and in the Tibet Region; joint training was conducted in March of 2007.

  Keeping the torch burning through bad weather, low pressure and high altitude was a tremendous technical achievement. In a test run on May 9, 2007, 17 Chinese climbers scaled Mt. Qomolangma with a flame protected in a high-tech torch, designed by a Chinese aerospace company, The success of the test run assured organizers that the Olympic torch would remain lit during the actual Torch Relay.

  After the test run, the newly formed Chinese Mountaineering Team prepared themselves for the Olympic Torch Relay climb in Beijing, Yunnan Province and Tibet.


  Live Coverage of Final Climb to Top of Mt. Qomolangma 

  (Qomolangma Base Camp, Tibet, May 8, Xinhua) -- A total of 19 mountaineers were selected to bring the Olympic flame to the summit of Mount Qomolangma. They will likely reach the peak between 10:00-11:00 am on May 8.

  The Qomolangma torchbearer assault team and the support team set out separately at 1:45 am and 3 am. The assault team surpassed 8700m at 5:50 am and the climb continued to progress smoothly.

  5:10 am: The first group to set out reached the Second Step at 8680m. According to forecasts from yesterday, the wind speed up top would be around 5 meters/second, creating ideal conditions for the summit assault.

  6:34 am: The mountaineering team crossed over the Second Step.

  6:36 am: The second group of mountaineers passed 8700m.

  7:10 am: They began making their way over a snow slope, and two minutes later, several members had passed over the slope.

  7:03 am: All team members had passed the Third Step.

  7:22 am: Most team members have passed 8830m.

  7:25 am: The sun is rising on this beautiful day! The winds up at 8800m are extremely high, about 16.7m/s.

  7:31 am: Even the last climber is close to the summit. The mountaineering team attempts to send a live video feed from 8800m at 7:38 am. The ropes you see are made of nylon and they help steady the mountaineers as they climb. From this shot we can see how high they are from the bottom. This is the fourth ascent of Qomolangma for cameraman Wangdu, a Tibetan.

  7:46 am: The team members are passing over a section that has both snow and ice.

  7:48 am: The climbers stay close to the mountain as they slowly make their way up. The cameraman is testing signals from 8800m. There are clouds above the Qomolangma summit, a sign of low winds up top.

  8:05 am: Visibility decreases at the top.

  8:06 am: Icicles have formed on the climbers' oxygen masks. Attached to Norbu Dhondup's backpack is the lantern with the Olympic flame.

  8:17 am: Lead climber Wang Yong-Feng announces to his teammates that they are about to reach to summit.

  8:27 am: The temperatures near the top are around -30 degrees Celsius.

  8:30 am: One of the mountaineers has reached the summit!

  8:37 am: The mountaineering team is nearing 8810m.

  8:38 am: The wind speed at the summit is 14-18 m/s.

  8:46 am: The lighting ceremony for the torch relay atop Mt. Qomolangma is about to begin. Wang Yong-Feng: "Everybody, we are all set."

  8:52 am: The team members take out the lantern. They inspect the condition of the flame.

  8:54 am: The torch lighting ceremony will take place in about 10 minutes, 30m from the summit. Afterwards, the torch will be relayed to the top.

  9:01 am: The mountaineers have all taken out the torches to prepare for the relay.

  9:11 am: Olympic torch is successfully lit atop Mount Qomolangma by Norbu Dhondup. Norbu Dhondup lights first torchbearer Gigi's torch; she is a Tibetan. The second torchbearer is Wang Yong-Feng, the team leader of the group; this is his third time climbing Qomolangma. The third torchbearer is Nima Tsering; this is his second time scaling Qomolangma. The fourth torchbearer is Huang Chun-Gui, a student at China Agricultural University. The fifth and last torchbearer, Tsering Wangmu, is one of three female mountaineers of the Qomolangma torch relay team.

  9:27 am: The mountaineering team wishes the Beijing Olympic Games luck from the Qomolangma summit. Olympic torch relay atop Mt. Qomolangma successfully concludes.


  19 Chinese Mountaineers Leave Earth's Summit after One-Hour Stay

  (Qomolangma Base Camp, Tibet, May 8, Xinhua) -- Nineteen Chinese mountaineers left the top of Mount Qomolangma at about 10 am Beijing time Thursday after relaying the Olympic torch on the world's highest peak.

  They are expected to reach the 7028m camp or even the 6500m camp before the sunset.

  Five mountaineers relayed the torch over the last 100 meters leading to the top for about six minutes, before the last bearer and female mountaineer Tsering Wangmu stood on the peak with the flame.

  It was the Olympic flame's first trip to Mt. Qomolangma.

  The mountaineers stayed at the top for about one hour.


  Olympic Torch Relayed on Mt. Qomolangma for First Time in History

  (Qomolangma Base Camp, Tibet, May 8, Xinhua) -- The Olympic flame made its first trip to Mount Qomolangma as Chinese mountaineers brought it to the top of the world at 9:12 am Beijing time (0112 GMT) on Thursday.

  The torch was lit at about one hundred meters away from the summit and then relayed upwards by five torchbearers.

  The last bearer Tsering Wangmu, an ethnic Tibetan, and one of the two female climbers on the final assault team, carried the torch to the peak.

  The unprecedented relay lasted about six minutes.

  "The successful ascent does not only belong to the Chinese Mountaineering Team, but also to our country," said Hu Jiayan, deputy director of the General State Administration of Sports.

  Having promised to take the torch relay to Mt. Qomolangma in their bidding campaign, the Beijing organizers gathered a team of 36 climbers. Among them 19 were picked for the final assault starting from the 8300m camp in early hours of Thursday.

  The final team, dressed in red parkas emblazoned with Olympic logos, should have reached the top earlier. But in order to get better sunlight and hence clear-cut live footage for the TV audience, the climbers slowed down and finally topped the 8844.43m peak a little more than six hours later.

  The 19-member final assault team consists of both ethnic Tibetans and Han Chinese, including university students and female climbers. They were spearheaded by ethnic Tibetan Nima Tsering and deputy head Luo Shen who is Han Chinese.

  About 30 climbers, including the mountaineering team and the cameramen, scaled Mt. Qomolangma in gusty winds and freezing temperature.

  The first four torchbearers are Gigi (female, ethnic Tibetan), Wang Yong-Feng (male, Han Chinese), team captain Nima Tsering (male, ethnic Tibetan) and Huang Chun-Gui (male, Han Chinese).

  The climbers unfurled the Chinese and Olympic flags at the summit. Some took off their oxygen masks while topping the peak.

  "I feel so good as the torchbearer. I know every climber wants to be a torchbearer," Gigi, a two-time Qomolangma climber, told the China Central Television (CCTV) ahead of the ascent.

  The Olympic flame was kept in a specially designed metal canister during the ascent. As the team neared the top, the 28-year-old Norbu Dhondup, a three-time Qomolangma climber who carried the lantern on his back, opened the lantern, ignited the torch and then passed it to the 39-year-old Gigi.

  The torch stayed alight and bright against strong winds, as all the torch, lighter and lantern used for the Qomolangma expedition are high-tech items capable of withstanding gale-force winds, low temperatures and the oxygen-thin air atop Mt. Qomolangma.

  "We had planned to take the torch to the top in late April, but strong winds and heavy snow had delayed us again and again. This week we had the first period of good weather," said Li Zhi-Xin, chief of the Base Camp Headquarters of the Torch Relay Qomolangma leg.

  "It is a strong team. Everyone is excellent and I feel so proud of them. We kept our promise and have made our own contribution to the promotion of the Olympic spirit," added Li, a well-known climber himself.

  The Olympic flame's first Qomolangma trip was live televised by the CCTV.

  Tsering Dendu, a younger brother of the last torchbearer Wangmu, scaled the summit as a CCTV cameraman. Dendu is a student of the Tibetan Mountaineering School, whose principal Nima Tsering led Thursday's ascent.

  The Beijing Olympic torch relay is the longest and most ambitious one, traveling 137,000 kilometers across five continents in 130 days. The torch returned to the Chinese mainland at the beginning of May and is touring South China's boomtown Shenzhen on Thursday.


expid: EVER08114
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Kenton Cool
sponsor: Britons to Everest
bcdate: 2008-04-14
smtdate: 2008-05-24
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2008-05-26
campsites: BC(14/04),C1(20/04,6000m),C2(27/04,6400m),C3(22/05,7300m),C4(23/05,7950m),Smt(24/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Britons to Everest, led by Kenton Cool - 30 May 2008

  After the government lifted its ban on climbing above BC from 1 May until the Chinese Olympic torch had reached the summit on the north side, Cool and Fiennes went upto C3 to acclimatize on 12 May but went back to BC the same day.

  Their summit push was made by both members and both Sherpas. They left BC on 20 May and climbed to C2 that day and stayed there for an extra day. On the 22nd they went to C3. They made C4 on the afternoon of the 23rd, and at 8:30 pm the four men went for the top.

  Fiennes turned back at 8300m at midnight of the 23rd/24th because he was too tired to continue his ascent. He and his Sherpa, Lhakpa Thundu, returned to C4, stayed there for six hours and then descended all the way to BC, arriiving there in the late afternoon. He was described by Henry Todd, who met him there, as being "sprightly" on his arrival.

  Cool had continued towards the summit and reached it at 6:30 am on the 24th with Lhakpa Wangchu Sherpa. They returned to C4 at 10:00 am and to BC on the 25th.

  Fiennes used oxygen when sleeping in BC from early May, and whenever he was above C1 he used it while climbing and sleeping until he returned to C1 until 24 May, when he slept on it in BC that night. Cool used it from C3 to summit to C3. Both Sherpas used it in C4 to their high points to C4.

  Fiennes and Cool left BC on the 26th and went to Pheriche for the helicopter which picked them up there on the 27th and flew them to Kathmandu. Fiennes caught a plane out of Nepal the same night while Cool stayed in Kathmandu until 1 June.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Thundu/Thudu, 20/5/70, Pangboche, Everest X6, Annapurna X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Lhakpa Wangchu, 20/10/86 (6/7/2043), Pangboche, Everest 17/5 and 24/5/07


expid: EVER08104
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Daniel Petraud
sponsor: Altarea Everest 2008
bcdate: 2008-04-20
smtdate: 2008-05-21
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2008-05-26
campsites: BC(20/04,5350m),C1(25/04,5950m),C2(27/04,6450m),C3(11/05,4950m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Himalayan Travel Bureau
routememo:
  Altarea Everest 2008, led by Daniel Petraud - 29 May 2008

  The team of two members and two Sherpas started their push for the summit from BC on 17 May and went to C3. On the 19th they went to C3 and on the 20th they established C4 at the South Col.

  They left C4 for the top at 9:00 pm on the 20th, reached the Balcony at about midnight and were on the summit at 9:30 am on 21 May. They stayed on the summit for 45 minutes in very good weather: it was not cold and there was no wind. They returned to C4 at 4:30 pm. On the 22nd they were in C2, and on the 24th they descended from C2 to BC.

  Both members used oxygen climbing up from C3, to and in C4, to the summit, down to and in C4. Both Sherpas used it in C4 to top to and in C4 only.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Tshering Sherpa, 22/4/80, Choplung, Chaurikharka-3, Solu, Everest 16/5/06, 
      Cho Oyu 1/10/06
    Nima Nuru, 19/6/67 (5/3/2024), Choplung, Chaurikharka-3, Solu, no 8000ers


expid: EVER08105
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Kari Kobler
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Everest/Lhotse Expedition 2008
countries: Austria, Germany, UK
bcdate: 2008-04-12
smtdate: 2008-05-21
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2008-05-25
campsites: BC(13/08,5350m),C1(18/04,6050m),C2(14/04,6400m),C3(11/05,7170m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Iceland Trekking (Dorje)
routememo:
  C1 at top of icefall
  C2 in West Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Kobler & Partner Everest/Lhotse Expedition, led by Karl Kobler - 29 May 2008

  The team spent two nights in C2 after arrival there on 24 April. There were about four to six Sherpas at C2 assigned by the government to enforce the ban on going higher than the camp until the Olympic torch had reached the summit on the north side in the first week or so in May. When Brill and Goltz strolled about 200m up the Western Cwm above their camp, they were stopped and told to go back to camp.

  At BC on 24 April, Z'Brun was sent by a Sherpa enforcer there to present himself to the army officer in charge of an army unit there. Z'Brun had been taking still pictures with a camera that could also do filming. Maj. Sunil Sing Rathor was very understanding, having been an Everest summiter himself in May 2003 with the Nepalese-Indian army expedition, but the rules forbad filming till the torch summited.

  All team members were in BC on the 26th except for Kobler, who arrived on the 27th, and they stayed in BC till the climbing ban was lifted, hoping the torch would get to the top on 1 May. After the torch actually got there on the 8th, the climbing ban was lifted, and the team went from BC to C2 on the 9th. They were in C3 on the 11th and back in BC on the 12th.

  On 18 May they left BC in their summit push and went to C2, on the 19th to C3 and on the 20th most of them occupied C4. But Goltz, the only member not using oxygen, stayed in C3 and left this camp at 9:00 pm for the top and reached the summit at 10:00 am on the 21st with his Sherpa, Mintenjen. In his descent, he became exhausted at the Hillary Step; Mintenjen gave him oxygen from the reserve set he was carrying, stayed there with him for two hours, then got him down to the South Summit. Here they were met by New Zealander Jamie McGuinness, who gave Goltz an injection of a stimulant, and Goltz managed to descend to the Balcony (8500m). Here he was met by the expedition's doctor, Brill, who came up from C2, and a Sherpa, and they escorted him to 8100m, only 15 minutes descent from C4.

  Goltz died at 8100m at 1:30 am on 22 May. His body was so exhausted that it stopped functioning. It was brought to the South Col, a simple service was held in his memory, and rocks were piled around and over it completely.

  The summit party from C4 left there at 10:00 pm on 20 May. They were Bittel, Bolt, Joehl, Kobler, Schlatter and Z'Brun and nine Sherpas. They reached the summit at 7:30 am on the 21st and returned to C4 at noon. All were back in BC on the 22nd except Kobler and Brill, who were delayed by Goltz's collapse and arrived on the 23rd.

  All members except Goltz (see above) and Sherpa used oxygen in and from C4 to the summit to C4.

  Non-summiting members:

  Brill, expedition doctor, was involved in trying to save Goltz's life (see above), climbed up to him at 8500m on the night of 21st May and helped him down to 8100m.

  Eiterer reached C3 on 11 May, was not feeling well, went down to Pheriche to recover. While he was there, a member of his family phoned to tell him his father was ill and he should come home, so he left the expedition.

  Steger reached only C1, found icefall frightening and left team on 18 April.

  Tait got a bad toothache at 5800m, took a large amount of pain killer and could no longer climb. He left team on 18 April also.

  Sherpas:
    Dorje Sherpa, aka Dorje Lambu/Big Dorje, 1/10/65, Thamo, Everest X13, 
      Makalu X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Kilu Pemba, 16/5/80, Beding, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2, Manaslu X1
    Lhakpa Sherpa, 24/8/66, Makalu-2
    Mintenjen Sherpa, 30/7/69, Nurbugaon, Makalu-9, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1
    Nima Tendu/Thunduk, 31/8/73, Pangboche, Everest 17/5/06 with Kobler
    Pasang Gyalji/Gyalje, 4/7/67, Makalu-2, Everest X1 [Makalu-9, Cho Oyu X1, 
      not Ever X1]
    Pemba Norbu, 6/12/78? 12/6/78?, Lelep-9, Taplejung, Cho Oyu 5/5/07
    Tshering Pande Bhote, 20/2/78, Hatiya-1, Sankhuwasabha, Everest X4
    Wangchu/Wongchhu Sherpa, 2/2/78, Taksindu-3, Solu, Everest X1


expid: EVER08106
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Richard Morse
sponsor: Americans on Everest
bcdate: 2008-04-07
smtdate: 2008-05-23
smttime: 0550
termdate: 2008-05-27
campsites: BC(07/04),C1(17/04,5974m),C2(23/04,6339m),C3(12/05,7315m),C4(21/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  Americans on Everest, led by Richard Morse - 2 June 2008

  Summit push began from BC on 19 May, when Morse, Pemba and Nima climbed directly to C2. On the 20th, Morse and Nima went up to C3 while Kami and Mingma Dorje went to C2. On the 21st, Pemba, Kami and Mingma Dorje came up from C2 to C3, arriving at C3 at 6:30 am and at 2:00 pm the whole party reached C4.

  At 8:00 pm on the 21st Morse and Nima made a bid for the top. But at about 10:00 pm, Morse was too tired to go on, so they turned around and returned to C4 at 11:00 am on the 22nd.

  On 22 May, Morse and the four Sherpas left C4 at 8:00 pm and were on the summit at 5:50 am on 23 May. They were back in C4 at 11:00 am. On the 24th everyone went down to C2 and were in BC on the 25th.

  Morse used oxygen climbing to C4 on 21 May and sleeping in C4, then again from the South Summit to the top, to and in C4. Kami Sherpa started using it when he was climbing above C4, while the other Sherpas slept on it in C4, and the four Sherpas used it to the summit and back to but not in C4.

  Sutterlin, expedition doctor, never intended to try for the summit. He went to C2 on 24 April and spent two nights there, but spent most of his time in BC until he left the team on 20 May.

  Fixed rope: gave 800m for others to fix.

  Sherpas:
    Kami (aka Kame), 1962, Bagam, Kerung-4, Solu, Everest X7, Lhotse X1, Dhaula X1
    Mingma Dorje, 17/7/79, Tapting, Solu, Everest X2
    Nima Sherpa, 30/9/75, Tapting-1, Solu, Everest 14/6/07
    Pemba Sherpa, Patle-4, Okhaldhunga, no 8000ers


expid: EVER08107
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Catalina Quesada
sponsor: Independent on Everest
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2008-04-17
smtdate: 2008-05-21
smttime: 1045
termdate: 2008-05-26
campsites: BC(17/04,5350m),C1(21/04,5900m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(11/05,7100m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Team left C4 at 10 pm on 20 May. Weather as calm and clear. It was very busy and Quesada and Pemba had to wait a lot on route. She met Gianni Goltz on South Summit, the Swiss man who died. He was resting and on his way up. He seemed tired but Ok. They spent one hour on summit. They descended to C4, arrived at 5 pm. On 22 May descent to C2, Quesada was not feeling well, so she used oxygen to descend to 7500m. BC on 23 May.

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Rita Sherpa, Rolwaling, 29/8/79, Everest X2 (2005 & 2007), Cho Oyu in 2004


expid: EVER08108
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Xavi Arias, Xavi Aymar
sponsor: Barcelona al Everest
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2008-04-17
smtdate: 2008-05-21
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2008-05-26
campsites: BC(17/04,5350m),C1(21/04,5900m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(14/05,7200m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Team left C4 at 11 pm on 20 May. Weather was cold and clear. With many people around, they had to wait at Hillary Step. On summit about 20 other people. They stayed 2 hours on summit, then descended to C4 at 6 pm. On 22nd went to C2; on 23rd to BC. On 22nd they helped Carlos Pauner, who was with Willy Benegas at the junction of Lhotse and Everest. They gave him the rest of their oxygen.


expid: EVER08109
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Ricardo Guerrero
sponsor: Cordoba Everest 2008
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2008-04-13
smtdate: 2008-05-21
smttime: 1040
termdate: 2008-05-26
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(13/04,5350m),C1(21/04,5900m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(14/05,7200m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Team left C4 at 10 pm on 20 May. Weather good but too many people. Climbed with Quesada Lina and Madariaga's team. Stayed about 1 hour on summit. Good views. They descended to C4; Guerrero and Tshering Dorje arrived at 4 pm; Baen and Nima Gyalzen at 5:15 pm. On 22 May to C3; 23 May BC.

  Sherpas:
    Nima Gyalzen Sherpa, Rolwaling, 9/8/1985, Everest 2005 (Indian women) & 
      2007 (Japan)
    Tshering Dorje Sherpa, Beding, Rolwaling, 3/3/89 (2045/11/20), 
      reached 8300m on Everest with Japanese in 2007


expid: EVER08110
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Francois-Guy Thivierge
sponsor: Canadians on Everest
approach: Lukla->Kalapattar
bcdate: 2008-04-06
smtdate: 2008-05-22
smttime: 0500
termdate: 2008-05-25
campsites: BC(06/04,5356m),C1(16/04,5900m),C2(20/04,6400m),C3(11/05,7200m),C4(21/05,7900m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Nima Gombu Sherpa (freelancer)
routememo:
  Team left C4 on 21 May at 8:30 pm. No wind, minus 20 degrees, clear weather. Many people ascended that day. No snow on Hillary Step. It was difficult to find new rope, too many old ropes. The rope between Hillary Step and summit was very thin. First group waited for other group on summit. Descended at 6:30 am. Arrived at C4 9 am, rested at C4 for 3 hours, descended to C2 at 6 pm. 23 May they descended to BC.

  Sherpas:
    Nima Gombu, 2/1/69, Rolwaling, Beding, Cho Oyu X3, Everest X13
    Pemba Nuru, 17/1/77, Thamiteng, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X1


expid: EVER08111
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Juan Ramon Madariaga
sponsor: Spanish Basques on Everest
approach: Island Peak
bcdate: 2008-04-08
smtdate: 2008-05-21
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2008-05-26
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(08/04,5350m),C1(21/04,5900m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(14/05,7200m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Weather cold and clear. Team left C4 at 10 pm on 20 May. Too many people. They stayed 1-1/2 hours on summit. Good view with bit of cloud. They descended to C4, arrived at 6 pm. Next day C2; on 23 May to BC.

  They climbed together with Cordoba Everest team.

  Sherpa:
    Mingma Tshering, Beding, Rolwaling, 26/9/1982, 
      Everest North: 14/06/07 with Conrad Anker (Russell Brice's expedition)


expid: EVER08112
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: David Hamilton
sponsor: Jagged Globe Everest Expedition 2008
countries: Ireland
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2008-04-06
smtdate: 2008-05-23
smttime: 0500
termdate: 2008-05-26
campsites: BC(06/04,5350m),C1(13/04,6060m),C2(27/04,6410m),C3(11/05,7140m),C4(22/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
accidents: None apart from McGarvey temporarily losing vision
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  Summit team left C4 at 9 pm on 22 May. Clear, moderate wind, gust of wind between midnight to 4 am. About 30 to 40 people on way. Good views from summit. Hamilton spent only 5 minutes on summit as McGarvey had to stop at 4 am at South Summit (8715m) due to eye problems. Hamilton got to him at about 5:45 am and descended to C4 with him, got there at 8:38 am. McGarvey's eyes had recovered by then. They spent night at C4. 

  Kinch reached about 8500m on 23 May at 3:30 am, then turned back due to exhaustion and descended to C4.

  O'Connor reached 8500m on 23 May at 2 am, turned back due to exhaustion and descended to C4.

  Rutland reached C2 on 2 May, abandoned climb due to pain on the side of stomach. He left BC on 5 May.

  McGarvey got to South Summit on 23 May, but had to abandon climb due to loss of vision.

  Sherpas: 
    Lila Bahadur Basnet, 31/3/83, Lamabagar-3, Dolakha, Everest 24/5/07
    Mingma Tshering, aka Mingma Chhiri, Mingma Tsiring/Tsiri, 2/8/70, Beding, 
      Everest X12, Cho Oyu X2, Dhaulagiri X1, K2 X1
    Nima Gyalzen Sherpa, 18/5/76 (5/2/2033), Beding, Everest X5
    Pasang Tenzing Sherpa, 1/10/84 (15/6/2041), Beding, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X2
    Pemba Chhiring Sherpa, 17/12/83 (2/9/2040), Beding, Everest X5, Lhtose X1, 
      Cho Oyu X2
    Wangchu Sherpa, 20/11/67, Phurte, Namche-4, Everest 17/5/07


expid: EVER08113
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Rob Casserley
sponsor: ICE 8000 Everest Expedition 2008
countries: Algeria, Australia, S Africa, USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2008-04-09
smtdate: 2008-05-22
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2008-05-27
campsites: BC(09/04,5350m),C1(20/04,6000m),C2(27/04,6400m),C3(20/05,7300m),C4(21/05,7950m),Smt(22,24/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  22 May summit team left C4 at 8:30 pm on 21 May. Holland S. got hit by rock near Balcony and bruised his arm. Climb straightforward. They spent about 1 hour on summit and descended to C4, arrived at 4 pm. Camp 2 on 23 May, BC on 24 May.

  24 May summit team: left C4 at 8:30 pm on 23 May. Weather was cold and clear. Low cloud, very busy. They waited at Hillary Step for half hour. Tanner fell into hidden crevasse just below summit - no injuries. They descended to C4, arrived at 11:30 am. On 25 May Casserley and Sherpas descended to BC. Bixler and Trumpelmann descended to C2 on 25 May to BC on 26 May.

  25 May Summit team: Roberts, Smith, Brennan and Dendounle left C2 at 5 am on 23 May. They reached C3 at 1 am. On 24 May they left for C4 at 8 am and reached it at 5 pm, apart from Smith who turned back at the Geneva Spur at 3 pm. He abandoned climb due to to exhaustion and dehydration. He descended to C2, where he arrived at 5 pm. Brennan, Dendoune, Kalzang Dorje, Lhakpa Sherpa left C4 at 9:15 pm on 24 May. Hillary Step was not busy, straightforward climb. They spent about 15 minute on summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 5 pm.

  Roberts did not summit. He was too exhausted to leave C4 on 24 May. He descended to BC on 25 May with Casserley (and Kenton Cool)

  Sherpas:
    Kalzang Dorje, Pangboche, Khumbu, 23/07/81
    Pemba Dorje, Pangboche, Khumbu, 34, 2007 Everest with AC but no summit
    Dorje Gyalzen, Pangboche, Khumbu, 16/04/82
    Chayang Jangbu, Hatiya-1, 28/9/79, Everest: 22/05/07 with British Army
    Pasang Dawa (Padawa) Sherpa, Pangboche, 18/10/77, Everest X9, Cho Oyu X4, 
      Lhotse X1
    Tshering Namgyal Sherpa, 14/6/84, Pangboche, Khumbu, 
      Everest: 24/5/07, 17/05/07 with Saunders, 17/05/06 with Todd
    Nurbu Bhote Lama, Hatiya-Barun, 29/5/81, Everest: 22/5/2007, 24/5/2008
    Lhakpa Wangchu, Pangboche, Khumbu, 20/10/86, Everest: 17/5/07 & 24/05/07 
      with Saunders (assigned to Kenton Cool team for hired counts)


expid: EVER08127
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Marty Schmidt
sponsor: MSIG Everest 2008
countries: USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2008-04-18
smtdate: 2008-05-29
termdate: 2008-06-02
termnote: Abandoned at 8200m due to no back-up oxygen, chest infection
campsites: BC(18/04,5350m),C1(27/04,6100m),C2(03/05,6600m),C3(11/05,7200m),xxx(29/05,8200m)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  On 25 May team did first summit push. Left C3 at 8 am, when they reached 7600m at 1 pm. They decided to turn back as they were moving too slowly. They descended to C2, where they arrived between 7 pm and 8 pm. On 26 May they descended to BC. 

  Burns left BC on 28 May and Schmidt decided to attempt 1-day ascent. He left BC at 6 pm on 28 May, reached C2 at 8:30 pm, C2 at 9:15 pm where he rested for 30 minutes, 10:15 he reached bottom of Lhotse wall (6700m). He reached C3 at 12:15 am, put up a tent and rested till 1:15 am. He reached C4 at 3:45 am. He was looking for oxygen (medical) that was supposed to have been left for him but could not find it. It made him feel uneasy but he still carried on towards the summit. But when he reached 8200m at 5:30 am he decided to turn back due to bad cough and the fact that there was no back up oxygen at South Col. He descended to C4 at stayed there until 12 noon. He descended to C2 (dismantled C3 on way), where he arrived at 8 pm. On 30 May he descended to BC, where he arrived at 2 pm.

  Schmidt was on his own without oxygen and Sherpa support.

  This team was on the permit for Project Himalaya (Jamie McGuinness).


expid: EVER08115
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Richard Kurdziel
sponsor: Independent on Everest
approach: Lukla->Namche->Tengboche->Chhukung->Island Peak->Lobuche
bcdate: 2008-04-07
smtdate: 2008-05-21
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2008-05-23
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (3 April)
campsites: BC(07/04,5360m),C1(19/04,6050m),C2(25/04,6430m),C3(11/05,7300m),C4(20/05,8000m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Kurdziel and Ngima Nuru left C4 at 9:30 am of 20 May, reached summit at 8 am on 21 May, stayed on summit 45 minutes, descended to C4 at 11:30 am, then to C2 at 6 pm. Next day to BC. The team had to wait about 1-1/2 hours before the South Summit. Summit day weather was beautiful mist on Tibetan side - no wind, warm day. There were about 20 climbers before Kurdziel team and about 40 climbers after him. The team returned Kathmandu on 26 May and will leave on 29 May.

  Fixed rope: contributed 100m.

  Sherpa:
    Ngima Nuru Sherpa, 6/22/81 (21-1-2038), Namche-4
      Summited Everest 8 times, first in 2001, Cho Oyu in 2003, Sishapagma in 2000
      & 2004, Ama Dablam also summited


expid: EVER08117
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Sergei Kovalev
sponsor: First Donbas Everest Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Tengboche->Pheriche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2008-04-22
smtdate: 2008-05-27
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2008-06-02
campsites: BC(22/04,5300m),C1(28/04,6000m),C2(01/05,6500m),C3(12/05,7250m),C4(26/05,8000m),Smt(27/05)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  Kovalev, Lykov, Paliy and Storozhenko left C4 at 3:40 am on 27 May, reached summit about 1:30 pm, stayed on summit about 40 minutes, descended to C4 at about 4:30 pm. Spent night at C4. Next day to C2 and following day to BC. On summit day the team met two climbers and two Sherpas descending from summit. The team passed three climbers and three Sherpas at Balcony. The team returned Kathmandu on 5 June and will leave on 9th. Next year may come for Makalu.


expid: EVER08118
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Norbert Joos
sponsor: Independent team on Everest
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2008-04-16
smtdate: 2008-05-25
termdate: 2008-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 8500m due to wind and cold, too cold
campsites: BC(16/04,5340m),C2(25/04,6400m),C4(24/05,7900m),xxx(25/05,8500m)
agency: Himalayan High Country Treks
routememo:
  Team in summit bid left C4 at midnight on 25 May. Weather was clear but very windy. They reached 8500m at about 5 am, but turned back as it was too cold for an ascent without oxygen. They descended to C4, dismantled it, then dismantled C2 and arrived at BC at 4 pm.

  Joos reached 7500m on 13 May. He turned back as he was not feeling well and he had problems breathing which could be due to heart operation after he suffered from a stroke on Kangchenjunga in 2006. He descended to C2 and to BC on 14 May. On 24 May he ascended to C2 for summit push, but abandoned it again as he had breathing problems. Joos said he will not come back to climb an 8000m peak and he is happy with his 13th.

  Sherpa:
    Dawa Tshering, 10/8/81, Khunde, Everest 10/06, Kangchenjunga 5/06


expid: EVER08119
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Hungary
leaders: David Klein
sponsor: Pepsi Max Hungarian Everest Expedition 2008
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2008-04-11
smtdate: 2008-05-17
termdate: 2008-05-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to chest infection
campsites: BC(11/04,5350m),C1(19/04,6060m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(16/05,7250m),C4(26/05,7900m),xxx(17,26/05,7900m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  On 17 May Klein ascended from C3 to C4, where he arrived at 2 pm. As it was only for acclimatization he descended to C2, arrived at 5 pm. Varkonyi was at C2 on 17 May and returned to BC that day. Klein descended to BC on 18 May where team met up.

  They started summit push 24 May. C3 on 25 May. Klein returned to C2 same day due to chest infection. He descended to BC on 26 May. Varkonyi stayed at C3 on 25 May, then reached C4 on 26 May. But on 27 May he decided to abandon climb due to bad cough. He descended to C3. On 28 May he went to C2; on 29 May he went to Gorak Shep where met Klein again.


expid: EVER08120
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Sergio Martini
sponsor: Independent on Everest
bcdate: 2008-04-21
smtdate: 2008-05-25
termdate: 2008-05-29
termnote: Abandoned at 8500m due to bad weather (strong wind)
campsites: BC(21/04,5300m),C2(03/05,6400m),C3(11/05,7400m),C4(24/05,7900m),xxx(25/05,8500m)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  C4 at South Col
  High point at Balcony.

  Everest Spring 2008 - Sergio Martini

  Martini left C4 at about 10:30 pm of 24 May. He reached below the Balcony at about 8 am of 25th. He waited there for about an hour for the Sherpa who is carrying oxygen cylinder for Martini to change at Balcony and also climbing with Roberto Manni, another Italian climber. They were very slow. Martini said while waiting for the Sherpas he slept there beside a dead body. After changing the oxygen cyclinder he continued his climb. When he got to 8500m started very strong wind suddenly. Martini waited for there for an hour hoping that the wind will recede but it did not. Then he decided to turn around and came to C4 at about 11 am and slept there. Next day he descended to C2. A Sherpa promised Martini that he will bring down Martini's C3 tent and goods to BC but the Sherpa went down to BC without it. Martini had to go for C3 to clear it and carry down to BC. Martini wanted to climb without supplementary oxygen but he said that it was very difficult for him to do everything alone on the mountain and decided to use oxygen for his climb. Martini returned to Kathmandu on 1 June and will leave on 6 June.


expid: EVER08121
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Brazil
leaders: Rodrigo Raineri
sponsor: Brazilian Everest Expedition 2008
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2008-04-19
smtdate: 2008-05-27
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2008-05-30
campsites: BC(19/04,5350m),C1(27/04,6000m),C2(28/04,6400m),C3(25/05,7300m),C4(26/05,7900m),Smt(27/05)
agency: Himalayan Ecstasy Treks
routememo:
  Summit team left C4 at 11 pm on 26 May. It was very windy. They met one expedition coming down that who had abandoned climb due to wind.

  At about midnight Raineri's water bag broke and he had to take off his clothes and dry up. They stayed on summit for 45 minutes. Good views. There was no one else at the summit. They descended to C4, arrived there at 10:30 pm. On 28 May they descended to C2 and on 29 May BC.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Dawa, Tashigaon, Makalu, 28/4/82, Everest 2004 & 2005 with Georghe
      Dijmarescu
    Ang Kami, Goli, Solu, 8/2/82 (26/10/2038), no 8000ers
    Nga Tenji, Makalu-Barun, 28/2/1980, Everest 2006 & 2007


expid: EVER08122
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Tim Rippel
sponsor: Peak Freaks Everest Expedition 2008
countries: Oman, Saudi Arabia, UK, USA
bcdate: 2008-04-01
smtdate: 2008-05-21
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2008-05-27
campsites: BC(01/04,5350m),C1(15/04,6000m),C2(28/04,6450m),C3(19/05,7300m),C4(20/05,7950m),Smt(21/05)
accidents: Alzuman snowblinded briefly at C4 22 May; Naseer slipped in Icefall
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  Peak Freaks Everest Expedition, led by Tim Rippel - 30 May 2008

  The team in their summit push slept in C3 on 18 May, climbed to C4 on 20 May, and left C4 between 10:00 and 10:30 pm of the 20th for the top. They were Gilbert with Kaji, Williams with Karma, Mortensen with Lhakpa Bhote, LaMoureaux with Jangbu, Rippel with Gyalzen, Alzuman with Mingmar, and Al Ismaili with Ngima Dendi.

  The summit was reached by Gilbert and Kaji at 7:00 am on 21 May, by Williams and Karma at 11:30 am, by Mortensen and Lhakpa Bhote at 11:45 am, by Rippel, LaMoureaux, Gyalzen, Jangbu and Ang Pasang (who was carrying spare oxygen bottles) at 1:00-1:10 pm, and Alzuman and Mingmar at 3:00 pm.

  The summit day's weather was clear, warm and no wind. All the summiters returned to C4 for the night. On the 22nd, all were in C2 except Rippel and LaMoureaux, who stayed in C3, and all of them were in BC by the 24th.

  Al Ismaili turned around at the South Summit at 2:00 pm because of dehydration and extreme exhaustion, and Ngima Dendi went with him. When Rippel was on the summit, he received a radio call from Al Ismaili asking for water; Rippel told him to descend and Rippel would catch up with him. Rippel met him just below the South Summit and Rippel helped him to go down, sometimes dragging him and several Sherpas roping him. They got him to 100m above C4 and left him there in a sleeping bag after he had been given more oxygen, water and medication; he was ready to go to sleep. They left him for two to three hours, then Sherpas from the Indian expedition led by Ashok Abbey (actually Indian Sherpa members) saw him moving and brought him into camp. He was able to walk to C3 for the night.

  Oxygen used by all members from C3 on 20 May to their high points to C3. Sherpas used it in C4 to top to C4.

  Two members left early:

  Lodey went into the Icefall on 13 May, had "lead legs," turned around at C1 and left the team on 14 May.

  Naseer slipped on a ladder in the Icefall and suffered a stress fracture in mid-shin on 9 May, slept in C1 that night, went down to BC on the 10th, and on the 12th left BC with a Sherpa to Lukla; descended from Namche to Lukla in just four hours. He said he would get an X-ray and return to BC for a speed ascent of Everest, but he never came back.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Pasang Sherpa, 5/11/70 (20/7/2027), Waku-4, Solu
    Gyalzen Sherpa, 19/4/84 (7/1/2041), Bakachol-9, Khotang, no 8000ers
    Jangbu Sherpa, 18/6/65 (4/3/2022), Bakachol-9, Khotang, Everest X3
    Kaji Sherpa, 12/2/87 (29/10/2043), Sikli, Jubing-9, Solu
    Karma Sherpa, 7/7/76, Sotang-6, Solu, Cho Oyu 5/5/07
    Lhakpa Bhote, 5/11/70, Hatiya-3, Sankhuwasabha, Everest 21/5/07
    Mingmar Sherpa, 22/7/70 (7/4/2027), Jantarkhani-9, Okhaldhunga, Everest 20/4/07
    Ngima Dendi, aka Nima Dendi/Ang Dendi, Dendi 25/5/74, Bakachol-9 Khotang, 
      Everest 19/5/07


expid: EVER08123
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Jamie McGuinness
sponsor: Project Himalaya Everest 2008
countries: Australia, Costa Rica, France, Ireland, UK
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2008-04-19
smtdate: 2008-05-20
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2008-05-25
campsites: BC(19/04,5350m),C1(25/04,6060m),C2(27/04,6400m),C3(18/05,7150m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(20-21/05)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  Namgyal Sherpa was fixing rope with 10 other Sherpas from other teams on 20 May. He reached summit at 3:25 pm and returned to C4, where he arrived at 7 pm. 

  21 May summit team left C4 at 10 pm. Perfect weather. Route was very busy, a lot of waiting en route. They stayed on summit for 1 hour. McGuinness waited for Falgate and Pasang Gombu, started descending at 1:30 pm. Just below Hillary step they met Swiss climber Uwe Gianni Goeltz who was in trouble. Goeltz's Sherpa was feeding him with oxygen and McGuinness gave him 4 mg Dexamethasone. McGuinness accompanied them to Balcony and left them when one of Kobler's Sherpas arrived with extra oxygen. Further down he bumped into a Korean in trouble; he assisted him and Sherpa for a while, finally arrived at C4 at 11 pm. Other members and Sherpas arrived at C4 at 6 pm. On 22 May they descended to C2 and got to BC on 23 May.

  Gernez reached 8000m [8300m?] on 23 May; he abandoned summit attempt due to exhaustion, turned back at 6 am and descended to C2.

  O'Leary reached 7300m on 20 May; he abandoned climb due to fatigue; he was also too slow.

  Soto-Buturla got to 7000m on 21 May; she turned back due to chest infection.

  Fixed rope: 1000m from C4 to south summit.

  Sherpas:
    Namgyal Sherpa, Rakha, Khotang, 05/10/77, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X4
    Pasang Gombu, Sotang, Solukhumbu, 28/12/69, Everest 25/5/06
    Jangbu Sherpa, Sotang-6, Solukhumbu, 01/10/81, no previous summit
    Chhewang Palden, Sotang-6, Solukhumbu, 06/02/74, Everest X1 (25/8/06)


expid: EVER08124
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Samuel Short
sponsor: Independent on Everest
bcdate: 2008-04-12
smtdate: 2008-05-22
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2008-05-25
campsites: BC(12/04,5300m),C1(19/04,5900m),C2(25/04,6200m),C3(12/05,7200m),C4(21/05,8000m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 above the Khumbu Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Short and Mingma Temba left C4 at 9:30 pm of 21 May, reached summit at 6:30 am of 22 May, stayed on summit about an hour and descended to C4 at about 12 noon. Rested for about two hours then descended to C3 at about 5 pm, spent night there.

  Next day to BC. Weather on summit was great. While descending passed south summit it was cloudy and snowing all the way down to C3. On summit ahead of short team were between 20-30 climbers, behind them were may be more than 30 climbers. Short was so impressed by Mingma Temba's performance that he did climb up and down C3 to C4 in five hours with a load of six oxygen cyclinders. 

  The team returned Kathmandu on 30 May. Short went to attend Buddhist course for ten days on 31 May and returned on 10 June. Short will go for rafting on 11 May and will return on 14 June. He will leave Kathmandu on 15 June.

  Sherpa:
    Mingma Temba Sherpa, 19/1/80 (5/10/2036), Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha, Everest 
      in 2006, 2007


expid: EVER08125
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Kalpana Dash
sponsor: Independent on Everest
bcdate: 2008-04-13
smtdate: 2008-05-20
smttime: 1527
termdate: 2008-05-26
campsites: BC(13/04,5300m),C1(19/04,6100m),C2(02/05,6400m),C3(11/05,7200m),C4(20/05,8000m),Smt(20-21/05)
accidents: Dash got sick in BC after summit
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 above Khumbu Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Independent Everest, Spring 2008 - Ms Kalpana Dash

  Dash, Lhakpa Rangdu, Kusang Tenjing and Namgya Sherpa left C4 at 9 pm on 20 May. The team reached summit at 12 noon and spent about 20 minutes on the summit. The team descended to C4 at 9 pm spent a night there. On 22 May to C2 and spent two nights there. On 24 May descended to BC. The weather on the summit day was very good. But Ms. Dash was a very slow climber. Lhakpa Rangdu Sherpa, who summited with Ms Dash, said that her climbing ability was about 20 percent. He said in normal conditions a slow climber requires between 6-7 4-liter oxygen cylinders to start from C3 to summit and C3, and also used in C2 for sleeping. As per the schedule the team was supposed to leave BC on 25 May and accordingly packed up the camp. In the morning of 25 May Ms Dash complained about stomach ache and told Lhakpa Rangdu that she cannot walk. Since the camp was already packed up she was taken to a tent of big Indian expedition (Himalayan Expedition Inc) and asked Kathmandu to send a helicopter for her. On 26 May Ms Dash was carried to Gorak Shep in a basket (doko) stretcher by Sherpas. She was evacuated from Gorak Shep in the morning of 27 May and admitted to Norvic. Gautam of Arun Treks said that Ms Dash had ulcer problem. She went to airport straight from Norvic (hospital) on 6 June for Delhi. 

  Lhakpa Rangdu summited Everest in Daura Saruwal to mark the occasion of 55th anniversary of the ascent on Everest.

  Fixed rope: 700m contributed.

  Namgya summited 3:26 pm on 20 May with rope fixing Sherpa Namgyal (McGuinness team), descended to C4 and went again to summit with Ms Dash, Lhakpa Rangdu and Kusang Tenzing on 21 May.

  Sherpas: 
    Lhakpa Rangdu Sherpa, 18/11/67 (2024/8/2), Tala Kharka, Sotang-6, Cho Oyu X3, 
      Ama Dablam 2007 autumn with UK, Everest X3 (two times from Tibet side and once 
      from south)
    Kusang Tenjing Sherpa, 16/05/86, Lelep-9, Taplejung, Ama Dablam X2, no 8000ers
    Namgya Sherpa, 11/8/71, Lelep-8, Taplejung, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X1


expid: EVER08126
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: David Morton
sponsor: Team Inspired Everest Expedition 2008 (Alpine Ascents International)
countries: Canada
approach: Lukla->Namche->Tengboche->Pheriche->Lobuche
bcdate: 2008-04-12
smtdate: 2008-05-22
smttime: 0820
termdate: 2008-05-27
campsites: BC(12/04,5334m),C1(23/04,6100m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(20/05,7400m),C4(21/05,8000m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  C4 at South Col.

  Miss Arnot, Dossett, Morton, Phura Kancha and Tshering Dorje Sherpa left C4 at 10:45 pm of 21 May. The team reached summit at 8:20 am of 22 May, spent an hour on summit, descended to C4 at 2 pm to sleep. Next day to C2 and the following day to BC. The team had to wait for 2 hours at the first rock step 200m above Balcony. Descending was very very slow from South Summit due to crowd of climbers.

  The team returned Kathmandu on 29 May and will leave on 2 June.

  Fixed rope: 600m between C2 and C3.

  Sherpa:
    Phura Kancha, 17/1/77 (4/10/2033), Namche-7, Thami/Thame, Ever X2, Cho Oyu X1
    Tshering Dorje, 20/7/70 (5/4/2027), Jubing-1, Ever X9, Cho Oyu X4, Ama Dablam X3


expid: EVER08129
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Boguslaw Magrel
sponsor: Polish Alpine Club (PKA) Everest Expedition 2008
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->Kangma La->Lobuche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2008-04-17
smtdate: 2008-05-22
smttime: 0935
termdate: 2008-05-15
campsites: BC(17/04,5275m),C1(19/04,6000m),C2(23/04,6380m),C3(11/05,7100m),C4(21/05,8000m),Smt(22/05)
accidents: Magrel suffered from heart pain
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 above Khumbu icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Krol and Pemba Chhuti left C5 at 9:20 pm on 21 May, reached summit at 9:35 am on 22 May, stayed on summit one hour. It was cloudy, could not see other mountains, but no wind and not cold. Descended to C4 about 2 pm, rested at C4 for one and half hours, then went to C3 where they reached at 5 pm. Spent night at C3 and next day to BC. On summit day ahead of Krol team there were about 60 climbers and about 20-30 climbers behind them. Krol returned Kathmandu on 27 May and will leave on 30 May. 

  Magrel climbed up to 6500m on 12 May. He suffered from breathing problem at the beginning while in C2. He consulted with BC doctor who told him there was no reason to leave BC to lower altitude. He remained at BC for 8 days, but his health condition did not improve and decided to go to lower altitude. In Pheriche he recovered and went back to BC. Third time 12 May he went to C2 and same problem started heart pain and high pulse which never happened before. On 15 May Magrel decided to give up climbing Everest and left BC same day. Arrived Kathmandu on 18 and left same day. The team planning to come in Oct/Nov for Ama Dablam. 

  This team was on the permit for Project Himalaya (Jamie McGuinness).

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Chhuti/Chhoti, 15/7/73 (passport says 21/12/73), Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha,
      Everest X2


expid: EVER08130
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Atsushi Yamamoto
sponsor: Everest Guide Expedition
bcdate: 2008-05-01
smtdate: 2008-05-24
smttime: 1310
termdate: 2008-05-28
campsites: BC(01/05,5350m),C2(21/05,6450m),C3(22/05,7250m),C4(23/05,7900m),Smt(24/05)
accidents: Funahashi snowblindness
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Everest Guide Expedition, led by Atsushi Yamamoto - 1 June 2008

  Expedition arrived at BC on 1 May, and Nepalese staff were the first amongst them to sleep in C2, which they did on 9 May, not making any C1 at the top of the Icefall. But the Japanese climbers made a C1 at 6000m on 20 May. They continued up in this summit push, occupying C3 at 7250m on 22 May and C4 on 23 May.

  On 24 May Fujimori, Kadoya, Kato, Masuda, Matsuura, Phurba Chhiri Sherpa and Hari Bahadur Chaulagain left C4 at 2:00 am Matsuura got to 8100m, then turned back because he was climbing too slowly, went to C4 to wait for the others, all of whom went to the summit the same day, 24 May. The summiters returned to C4 at 5:30 pm, and the whole party, including Matsuura, descended the next day: Kato and Matsuura spent the night in C2 while the other Japanese and the two Nepalese went to BC.

  On the 24th, Yamamoto had gone up to C2 to meet Matsuura, who was extremely tired. Yamamoto met him at 7300m on 25th and escorted him down to C2.

  All members were in BC on the 26th. They left BC on the 28th and took a helicopter from Syangboche to Kathmandu on 30 May.

  Other non-summiting members:

  Funahashi reached 7000m, but she was very slow and there was new snowfall; she descended to C1 with Yamamoto. She had become snowblind while going down from C2 to C1 and had had to stay in C1 an extra day to recover.

  Shiga, the expedition doctor, stayed in BC.

  Yamamoto's high point was 7300m in his climb up to help Matsuura.

  Members used oxygen sleeping in C1 and C2, then climbing and sleeping above C2 to their high  points to and in C4. The two Nepalese used it sleeping in C4 to high points to and perhaps in C4 on descent.

  Nepali climbers:
    Hari Bahadur Chaulagain, 25/12/71 (10/9/2028), Makalu-2, no 8000ers before, 
      but climbed frequently on lower mountains with Tamotsu Ohnishi
    Phurba Chhiri Sherpa, 4/10/68 (19/6/2025), Kurima, Lokhim-9, Solu, Everest X4, 
      Lhotse X2, Manaslu X2, Cho Oyu X2


expid: EVER08131
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Jordan
leaders: Mostafa Salameh
sponsor: Jordan Seven Summits Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2008-04-08
smtdate: 2008-05-25
smttime: 0650
termdate: 2008-05-27
campsites: BC(08/04,5334m),C1(15/04,5944m),C2(21/04,6400m),C3(16/05,7010m),C4(24/05,7925m),Smt(25/05)
achievment: 1st Jordanian to summit Everest
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  Salameh, Lhakpa Tsheri and Chhongba Nurbu left C4 at 9:30 pm on 24 May, reached summit at 6:50 am of 25 May, spent one hour on summit, descended to C4 between 9:30-10 am. Then to C2 at 3 pm and slept there. Next day to BC. While on summit Salameh had talk with the Jordanian King. The summit day weather was very good. He will be going for South and North Pole. After his Seven Summits, he will stop climbing. Salameh wants to be Tourism Minister in future. He returned Kathmandu on 31 May and will leave on 2 June.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Tshering Sherpa, 25/11/72, Chaurikharka-1, Everest in 2007, 
      Ama Dablam [?]
    Changba Nurbu Sherpa, 1964, Tate, Chaurikharka-7, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X1, 
      Dhaulagiri X1


expid: EVER08132
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Sylvie Frechette
sponsor: Independent on Everest
bcdate: 2008-04-05
smtdate: 2008-05-21
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2008-05-25
campsites: BC(05/04,5364m),C1(22/04,5943m),C2(28/04,6492m),C3(11/05,7400m),C4(20/05,8000m),Smt(21/05)
achievment: 5th Canadian Women and 1st citizen of Quebec
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 above Khumbu Glacier
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Frechette, Nima Gelzen and Ang Pemba left C4 at 9:30 pm of 20 May, reached summit at 8:30 am of 21 May, stayed on summit for 45 minutes, descended to C4 at about 1:30 pm, slept at C4. Next day to C2 and following day to BC. Weather was very good, no wind, blue sky. About 15 climbers were behind her.

  The team returned Kathmandu on 27 May and will leave on 31 May.

  Sherpa:
    Nima Gyalzen Sherpa, 31/8/86 (15/05/2043), Ghat, Chaurikharka-6, Everest X2
    Ang Pemba Sherpa, 25/7/78 (10/04/2035), Thami/Mende, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1


expid: EVER08133
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Ryan Waters
sponsor: Mountain Professionals Everest Expedition 2008
countries: Canada
bcdate: 2008-04-09
smtdate: 2008-05-21
smttime: 0735
termdate: 2008-05-25
campsites: BC(09/04,5350m),C1(18/04,6000m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(30/04,7300m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(21-22/05)
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  Mountain Professionals Everest Expedition 2008 ,led by Ryan Water - 4 June 2008

  The expedition's first summit bid started from C4 at 8:00 pm on 20th May. Its members were Arnette, Barrett, Kress, Murray, Waters, Phurba Temba, Tshering Wangchu, Lama Babu and Nima Dorje Tamang. Arnette and Lama Babu turned back from the Balcony (about 8500m) at midnight of the 20th/21st because Arnette was slow and very tired; they descended to C2 on the 21st. Waters turned around alone at 8600m, where his oxygen regulator started to malfunction, and went to C4.

  The remaining three members (Barrett, Kress and Murray) and three Nepalis (Phurba Temba, Tshering Wangchu and Nima Dorje Tamang) went on to reach the summit at 7:35 (the Nepalis), 7:45 (Murray), and 8:00 am (Barrett and Kress) on 21 May. They returned to C4 between 1:00 and 2:30 pm and stayed there for the night.

  Waters made a second bid for the top. He left C4 alone at 8:40 pm on the 21st, reached the summit at 8:30 am on 22 May and returned to C4 at 3:00 pm. Here he realized that his right big toe was frostbitten and other toes were frostnipped, but all will heal. On the 23rd he descended to C2 and on the 24th to BC.

  Oxygen was used by all members except Waters climbing from C3, to and in C4 to their high points, to and in C4, to C3. Waters started using it halfway to C4 and continued on it in C4 to his high point and then to the summit, and down all the way to C2. The Sherpas used it in C4 to their high points to C4.

  Fixed rope: from C2 to C3.

  Sherpas:
    Lama Babu, 23/9/68, Cheremy, Bung-9, Solu, Everest X3
    Nima Dorje Tamang ("Kala"), 8/1/80 (24/9/2036), Bakachol-9, Khotang, Everest X2
    Phurba Temba ("Lama Thami"), 1968, Yilajung, near Thami, Everest X1
    Tshering Wangchu, aka Tshering Ongchuk, 16/3/83 (2/12/2039), Thamo, Everest X2,
      Lhotse X1


expid: EVER08135
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Ronald Sanga
sponsor: Independent American on Everest
bcdate: 2008-04-10
smtdate: 2008-05-21
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2008-05-25
campsites: BC(10/04,5300m),C1(15/04,6200m),C2(16/04,7300m),C3(19/05,7800m),C4(20/05,8000m),Smt(21/05)
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Icefall
  C1 above Khumbu Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Sanga, Ang Gyalzen and Nawang Lhakpa left C4 at 9 pm on 20 May, reached summit at 8 am of 21 May, stayed for one hour on summit, descended to C4 at 4 pm and slept there. Next day to C2 and following day to BC. The summit day weather was best of best. Ahead of Sanga's team there were 30-40 climbers. Sanga returned to Kathmandu on 29 May and will leave on 5 June. 

  Sanga wants to go Cho Oyu and Xixapangma in next spring. If that is not possible will go for Cholatse.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Gyalzen (Rinji), 24/06/1973 (10/3/2030), Kharikhola, 
      summited Ama Dablam with Sanga in 2005, no 8000ers
    Nawang Lhakpa, 17/1/72 (3/10/2028), Choplung-3, Everest 2006 Korean, 2007 French


expid: EVER08136
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Son Yeong-Jo
sponsor: GYJ World Seven Summits Expedition 2008
bcdate: 2008-04-14
smtdate: 2008-05-22
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2008-05-25
campsites: BC(14/04,5400m),C1(18/04,5900m),C2(22/04,6400m),C3(11/05,7200m),C4(21/05,8000m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Advance BC Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 above the Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Son and Nim Dorje left C4 at 8:30 pm of 21 May, reached summit at 8:30 am of 22 May, stayed on summit one hour, descended to South Col at 1 pm, then to C3 at 4 pm. Next day to BC. Weather was good, Tibet side cloudy. About 15-20 climbers were ahead of Son team and maybe equal numbers of climbers were behind. Park got headache in South Col and waited for Son. Son has done 5 summits. The team returned on 27 May and will leave on 31 May.

  Fixed rope: 200m contributed.

  Sherpa:
    Nima Dorje, 17/3/81 (04-12-2037), Nurbugaon, Makalu-5, 
      summited Everest in 2003 (south) with Swiss team 22 May 2003,
      Everest (north) on 4 June 2005 with Swiss (Kobler), Xixapangma 2004 Swiss team


expid: EVER08137
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Phil Crampton
sponsor: Altitude Junkies to Everest 2008
countries: Australia, Canada, New Zealand
bcdate: 2008-04-08
smtdate: 2008-05-21
smttime: 0745
termdate: 2008-05-28
campsites: BC(08-09/04,5350m),C1(18/04,6000m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(19/05,7260m),C4(20/05,7950m),Smt(21,24/05)
accidents: Dickson and Jackson chest infection; Ang Sarki's frostbite
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face.

  Altitude Junkies to Everest, led by Philip Crampton - 4 June 2008

  The first summit party left C4 for the summit at 8:20 pm on 20 May. They were Crampton, Herbert, Lawes, Nawang Wangchu and Chhedar Sherpa. At 11:30 pm, when Herbert was at 8400m was at 8400m, he was too exhausted to continue his ascent; he and Nawang Wangchu returned to C4 at 12:30 am of the 21st. Lawes reached 8670m at 7:30 am, then lost the sight in his left eye, apparently because of the same eye problem -- pressure on his optical nerve -- that afflicted two members of the Adventure Consultants' Everest team led by Michael Roberts. Lawes, Herbert, Chhedar and Nawang Wangchu turned back together; Cheddar stayed in C4 waiting for Crampton to go to the summit and return to C4, while the others descended to C3.

  Crampton reached the summit at 7:45 am on 21 May and went down to C4 to stay the night. After Crampton arrived in C4, Cheddar descended to C2.

  The second summit party left C4 at 8:00 pm on 23 May. They were two members, Farmer and Reisinger, with three Sherpas, Pasang Dawa, Lhakpa Nuru and Ang Sarki. Ang Sarki turned back just below the Balcony's 8500m because of frostbite; his toes had gotten frostbitten from C3 but he continued up nonetheless; now, at 11:00 pm on the 23rd, it was very cold and he saw a long line of climbers ahead of him, so he turned around and went down to C2, where he arrived at 1:00 pm on the 24th.

  Farmer, Pasang Dawa and Lhakpa Nuru reached the summit on 24 May at 5:37 am. They stayed there only five minutes before going back to C4 at 10 am. They went down to C2 on the 25th.

  Oxygen was used by all members except Crampton to sleep in C3, climb and sleep above it to their high points, and down to and in C3. Crampton used it from just below C4, at about 7900m to and in C4 to the top, and to but not in C3. All the Sherpas used it in C4 to their high point to and in C4.

  Other non-summiting members:

  Dickson got to 6700m, the foot of the Lhotse Face, then abandoned his climb on 22 May because of a chest infection.

  Hoby was very tired when she reached C3 on 22 May, so abandoned her climb.

  Jackson got to 6700m on 14 May, then quit climbing because of his chest infection.

  Fixed rope: from C2 to C3.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Sarki, 18/5/61 (5/2/2018), Ghat, Chaurikharka-6, Solu, no 8000ers
    Chhedar Sherpa, December 1962, Sisuwakhola, Makalu vdc, Everest X3
    Lhakpa Nuru, 24/6/78 (10/3/2035), Tate, Chaurikharka-3, Solu, no 8000ers
    Nawang Wangchu, 31/5/73 (18/2/2030), Choplung, Solu, Everest X3, Dhaulagiri X1
    Pasang Dawa, 14/7/77, Choplung, Chaurikharka-3, Solu, Everest 18/5/07


expid: EVER08138
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Michael Roberts
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Everest Expedition 2008
countries: Australia, Canada, UK, USA
bcdate: 2008-04-10
smtdate: 2008-05-24
smttime: 0400
termdate: 2008-05-28
campsites: BC(10-11/04,5350m),C1(16/04,6000m),C2(18/04,6400m),C3(11/05,7200m),C4(23/05,7950m),Smt(24/05)
achievment: Mother-daughter ascent
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Adventure Consultants Everest 2008, led by Michael Roberts - 3 June 2008

  The expedition put all but one of its members on the summit on one day, 24 May. The only member who did not summit was Roxanne Faike, who was not acclimatizing, go to only 5800m on 1 May and left the team on 5 May. Thirteen of their 20 Sherpas above BC also summited on the same day.

  The team's summit push started on 19 May from BC to C1. They were in C2 on the 20th, C3 on the 22nd, and made C4 on the 23rd. The summit party left C4 at 8:00 pm on the 23rd and were on the summit on 24 May between 4:00 and 5:00 am. All members and Sherpas descended to C4 between 9:00 am and 2:00 pm. On the 25th all were in C2, 26th in BC, and left BC on the 28th -- except for Roberts, who left on the 30th.

  Oxygen was used only during the summit push. Masheter used it from C2 to C3, all other members in and from C3 to the top to and in C4. Some Sherpas used it climbing near C4, but most of them did not; all of them used it in C4 to top to and in C4.

  The only health problem was pressure on Cheryl Bart's and Masheter's optical nerves, which blurred their vision (it struck Masheter while she was descending to the South Summit but cleared late that afternoon when she was in C4).

  Sherpa summiters:
    Chuldim Dorje, 14/2/64, Pangboche, now living in Tri City, WA, USA with USA 
      as well as Nepalese citizenship, Everest X11, Cho Oyu X3, Broad Peak X1, 
      Gasherbrum II X1
    Dawa Jangbu, aka Da Jangbu, 22/4/73, Pangboche, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X1
    Lhakpa Dorje, 16/11/61, Sanam, Gudel-4, Solu, Everest X3, Makalu X3, Cho Oyu X3,
      Lhotse X1
    Namgyal Sherpa, 25/9/71 (9/6/2028), Bung-9, Solu
    Nima Tenzing, 16/4/88, Khumjung, Everest 21/5/07
    Pasang Bhote, 19/5/85, Chepuwa, Makalu, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1
    Pasang Bhote, 3/9/82, Hatiya, Makalu, Everst X2, Cho Oyu X1
    Pemba Chhoti, 21/12/73, Thame, Everest X2
    Phu Tashi, 17/11/61, Pangboche, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X3
    Sange Dorje, 14/4/78, Khumjung, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2
    Sonam Tshering, aka Ang Sona, 1/10/86 (15/6/2043), Khunde
    Temba Sherpa, 24/6/78, Khumjung, Everest X2
    Tendi Sherpa, 13/10/68, Sanam, Gudel-4, Solu, Everest 21/5/07


expid: EVER08139
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Mark Tucker
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Everest Expedition 2008
countries: Canada, Poland, Romania, Taiwan
bcdate: 2008-04-07
smtdate: 2008-05-21
smttime: 0623
termdate: 2008-05-25
campsites: BC(07/04),C1(19/04,6065m),C2(20/04,6462m),C3(11/05,7269m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(21-24,27/05)
agency: Beyul Adventure
routememo:
  IMG Everest Expedition 2008, led by Mark Tucker - 1 June 2008

  Everest teams arriving at BC in April and first days to May found that the Khumbu Icefall route was yet not open. The Sherpas assigned to fix and maintain the Icefall, known as the Icefall doctors, had been asked on about 13 April not to complete the job they had started (they had fixed it almost to the top of the Icefall) until security forces arrived to supervise the new regulations resulting from the Chinese government's obsession with possible demonstrations of opposition to the successful project to get the Olympic torch to the summit of Everest from the Tibetan side. The army major in charge, Sunil Singh Rathor, himself an Everest summiter with the Nepalese-Indian joint army expedition on 22 May 2003, came to BC on 15 April and authorized the resumption of Icefall work. The route was completed the next day, the 16th, and anyone could go up the mountain at will until 30 April, when everyone must be down in BC except cooks, who were allowed to sleep in C1 and C2 to guard their teams belongings. No one was allowed above the Icefall on 1 and 2 May; from 3 May teams could go up to C1 and C2 but not above there. Finally, when the torch had reached the summit in the early morning of 8 May, all restrictions were removed and Maj. Rathor departed.

  The expedition sent five parties to the summit. First were Grom, Peress, and Pospischil with Da Nuru, Dawa Nuru and Nima Karma, who left C4 for the top at 9:17 pm on 20 May. Pospischil and Nima Karma turned around at 8450m because the American had become very tired and was too slow they went down to C2. The others reached the summit on 21 May at 6:23 am and descended to C2 at 5:20 pm.

  The next group left C4 on the 21st at 8:43 pm and all were on the summit on 22 May between 4:36 am and 8:18 am. The summiters were Cook, Janikowski, Popoviciu, Wedberg, Yannuzzi, Pemba Dorje, Jamling Bhote, Ang Namgyal, Mingma Tshering and Kancha Nuru. Cook, Popoviciu, Jamling Bhote and Pemba Dorje were first up at 4:36 am while Janikowski and Ang Namgyal brought up the rear at 8:18 am. Cook, Popoviciu, Yannuzzi and their Sherpas descended to C2, the others stopped in C4.

  The third summit party left C4 on the 22nd at 9:20 pm all on the summit on 23 May at 6:56 am. They were Hawrylewicz, Merle, Smith, Mingma Tenzing, Chewang Lendu and Pasang Nuru. They were back in C4 at 11:15 am.

  The fourth group left C4 at 8:15 pm on the 23rd and summited on 24 May between 4:23 and 5:18 am. They were Hamill, Hovland, Warren, Dawa Sona, Phinzo, Pasang and Phu Nuru. All returned to C4 between 8:30 and 10:30 pm.

  The last party made two attempts for the summit. Hahn, Messner, Finjo Dorje and Samduk Dorje Tamang left C4 on the 25th at 11:00 pm but turned around at about 8100m at 0:15 am of the 26th because of bad weather: windy, misty, wind blowing snow around. They returned to C4, waited there for better weather, which they got; in perfect weather they set off again at 10:43 pm on the 26th and were on the summit on 27 May at 7:26 am. They went down to C2 at 5:40 pm.

  Other non-summiting members:

  Andrews arrived at BC late on 24 April, was sick, never went higher, left expedition in early May.

  Campbell on 23 May went up to 8535m while guiding his client Massad and turned back with him.

  Freeman went to 7000m on 22 May and gave up; he wasn't strong enough for a very big mountain.

  Harter got to C2, had a throat problem and left team on 15 May.

  Kuo was out of condition, very slow, got only halfway through the Icefall and left the expedition on about 10 May; he took a horse from Lobuche to Namche Bazar.

  Lowry got to C3, then decided on 20 May the climb was too much for him.

  Massad got to 8535m, then quit.

  Parazynski reached C3 on 21 May, got back spasms and quit.

  Shaw went into the Icefall several times but got to the top of it slowly and with difficulty; left the team about 8 or 10 May.

  [Monty] Smith got a bad nosebleed in C2 on 22 May and stopped climbing, took a helicopter from Lobuche.

  Oxygen was used by all members in C3 and above and down to C3 or C1. All Sherpas used it to sleep in C3, sleep in C4, climb above C4, and descend to C3.

  Sherpas: 
    Ang Namgyal, 22/6/86, Phortse/Pangboche, Everest X2
    Chewang Lendu, 19/4/80, Phortse, Everest X1, Lhotse X1, Manaslu X1
    Da Nuru, 19/5/59, Phortse, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X3, Makalu X1
    Dawa Nuru, aka Danuru, 26/10/78, Phortse, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X7
    Dawa Sona, 5/12/65, Pangboche, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X1
    Finjo Dorje, 3/9/86, Pangboche, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Jamling Bhote, 28/12/77, Hatiya, Makalu, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2
    Kancha Nuru, 30/11/82 (15/8/2039), Phortse, no 8000ers
    Mingma Tenzing, 1/6/86, Phortse, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X3
    Mingma Tshering, 26/4/72, Phortse, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X3
    Nima Karma, 30/6/83, Pangboche (not Phortse), Everest X2 (with Tucker)
    Pasang Sherpa, 12/8/78 (28/4/2035), born in Salleri, moved to Thamo after
      marriage
    Pasang Nuru, 30/1/73 (17/10/2029), Phortse
    Pemba Dorje, 1961, Pangboche, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X2
    Phinzo Sherpa, 23/4/71, Phortse, Everest X3, Manaslu X1
    Phu Nuru, 16/5/80, Phortse, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X6
    Samduk Dorje Tamang, 31/5/83, Pangboche, Everest X2


expid: EVER08141
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Mexico
leaders: Jorge Antonio Salazar
sponsor: Mexican Everest Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Deboche->Lobuche
bcdate: 2008-04-12
smtdate: 2008-05-21
smttime: 1206
termdate: 2008-05-27
campsites: BC(12/04,5300m),C1(19/04,6100m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(16/05,7200m),C4(20/05,8000m),Smt(21-22/05)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 above Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Salazar left C4 at 11 pm of 20 May, reached summit at 12:06 pm of 21 May, stayed on summit about 45 minutes, descended to C4 at 7 pm, and slept at C4. It was good weather, no wind. Ahead of Salazar there were about 40-50 climbers and behind him were about 20-25 climbers. 

  Aguilar left C4 at 9:25 pm on 21 May, reached summit at 7:25 am on 22 May, stayed on summit for 30 minutes, descended to C4 at 1:30 pm, and slept at C4. Weather during climb was warm, no wind. 

  Both Salazar and Aguilar descended to C2 on 23 May. Next day to BC. The team returned to Kathmandu on 30 May and will leave on 8 June.


expid: EVER08142
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Brian Jones
sponsor: Canada West Mountain School Expedition to Everest
countries: USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2008-04-06
smtdate: 2008-05-25
smttime: 0915
termdate: 2008-05-28
campsites: BC(06/04,5350m),C1(18/04,6060m),C2(29/04,6400m),C3(09/05,7300m),C4(23/05,7900m),Smt(25/05)
accidents: Hill's illness
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Jones, Furneaux, Sasseville, Bjarnason, Ainscough and 5 Sherpas (Thendorje, Pasang Yila, Chheden Dorje, Mingma Dukpa and Phurba Bhote) reached C4 on 23 May at 3 pm. They were shocked to see that most of their food was stolen and it was not enough for summit. Phurba Bhote went down to get food that is why summit push was delayed by one day. On 24 May team left C4 at 8:30 pm. Ainscough and Bjarnason turned back at 8250m since Ainscough had problems with oxygen mask and Bjarnason felt onset of AMS. They desceded to C4, where they spent night. Summit team spent 30 minutes on top, good views. They descended to C2 and BC on 27 May. 

  Browning reached 6800m on 7 May; he was on acclimatization trip; he did not go back up due to problems with his knees; he left BC on 17 May.

  Hill reached BC on 6 April as he suffers from Crohn's disease he had a flare up and was flown to Kathmandu from Lobuche on 14 April. As Sarkany was there to film Hill; he returned to Kathmandu with him. They left for Canada on 16 April.

  Sherpas:
    Thendorje Sherpa, Pangboche, 22/4/1983, Everest: 2004, 2005, 2006 and 2007, 
      Manaslu: 2006
    Pasang Yila, Pangboche, March 1978, Everst: 2001, 2003 & 2007
    Mingma Dukpa, Yaphu-9, 15/6/1980, Everest: 16/5/2007, Polish Expedition Cho Oyu
      4/10/07
    Chheten Dorje, Pangboche, 28/5/87 (14/2/2044), no previous 8000ers


expid: EVER08143
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Denmark
leaders: Soren Smidt
sponsor: Danes on Everest
approach: Jiri->Lukla
bcdate: 2008-04-25
smtdate: 2008-05-25
termdate: 2008-05-28
campsites: BC(25/04,5350m),C1(27/04,5900m),C2(29/04,6400m),C3(22/05,7200m),C4(24/05,7900m),Smt(25/05)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  In between team flew to Russia. On 1 May they took a helicopter from Lobuche to Kathmandu and flew to Russia on 2 May. On 8 May they summited Elbrus and returned to Kathmandu on 11 May. Same day to Lukla. On 12 May by helicopter to Lobuche and 13 May back to BC. C1 on 16 May, C2 on 18 May until summit push. On 25 May team left C4 at 9 pm. Perfect weather, not too many people. Smidt, Lhakpa and Pemba left summit at 7:15 am, descended to C4m arrived at 10:30 am. Kristiansen, Serap and Temba left summit at 7:30 am and arrived at C4 at 11:30 am. All members and Sherpas stayed at C4. On 26 May descent to C2, 27 May BC.

  Kristiansen's mission is to finish 7 summits in less than 155 days. 

  Sherpas:
    Temba Sherpa, Sotang-6, Solu, 6/2/77, no Nepali 8000ers
    Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa, Thami, Khumbu, 22/11/80, Everest X3
    Pemba Tenjin Sherpa, Namche-4, Phurte, Khumbu, 2 Feb 1976, Everest 17/5/06, 
      18/5/07
    Serap Jangbu Sherpa, 25/7/1969, Kangchenjunga 1999, K2 X2, Everest X2, 
      Lhotse X2, etc


expid: EVER08144
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Willie Benegas
sponsor: Mountain Madness Everest Expedition 2008
approach: Lukla->Namche->Dingboche->Lobuche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2008-04-07
smtdate: 2008-05-21
smttime: 0610
termdate: 2008-05-24
campsites: BC(07/04,5350m),C1(21/04,6000m),C2(01/05,6400m),C3(11/05,7200m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(21/05)
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 above the Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Arredondo, Benegas, Pierson, Pasang Tendi and Danuru left C4 at 8 pm. Danuru turned around from below South Summit (according to Lhakpa Nurbu, Danuru had a little chest pain). Arredondo, Benegas, Pierson and Pasang Tendi reached summit at 6:10 am on 21 May, stayed on summit an hour and half, descended to South Col at 11:30 am and slept there. Next day to C2 to sleep. Following day to BC. 

  Bonner went up to C2 on 1 May slept there. He did not want to go further. Just wanted to go home and left BC on 3 May. 

  Benegas help Saudi climber Alzuman of Rippel Canadian team who was snowblind from South Col to C2. The Swiss climber (Goltz Kobler expedition) who summited without oxygen collapsed just about 200m away from his tent. Benegas brought him with other Sherpas to South Col. Sherpas made a grave for the Swiss climber with piles of rocks away from South Col and buried him. 

  Lhakpa Nurbu went up to South Col to set camp. Bonner was supposed to go with him to summit. Since Bonner gave up his climbing Lhakpa remained at BC. Bonner was on Everest in 2005. At that time also Lhakpa was his Sherpa. Bonner told Lhakpa that he will come again for Everest. 

  The team returned Kathmandu on 27 May and will leave on 31 May.

  Fixed rope: 600m from below south summit to summit.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Tendi, 27/10/83 (10/07/2040), Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha, Everest X5
    Lhakpa Nurbu Sherpa, 23/5/78 (10/02/2035), Namche-2, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X2
    Dawa Nurbu/Danuru Sherpa, 22/11/76 (7/08/2033), Kharikhola, Everest X7


expid: EVER08145
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Stuart Peacock
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Everest Expedition 2008
countries: Ireland
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2008-04-12
smtdate: 2008-05-23
smttime: 0530
termdate: 2008-05-27
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),C1(18/04,6025m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(12/05,7100m),C4(22/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Whole team (8 members) and 3 Sherpas left C4 at 8:30 pm on 22 May. White reached 8000m at about 9:30 pm but turned back as he was not feeling well and lost motivation. He returned to C4. Maxwell, Brown, Peacock got to the Balcony (8425m), but turned back due to cold hands and feet at about 2:30 am. They returned to C4, arrived at 5 am. Chong reached 8758m at about 10 am, but was asked to turn around by Peacock via radio as it was getting too late. He was with Dorje Khatri. On way down Chong fell over fixed line and sprained ankle. Peacock received radio call at 1:15 pm and was asked to come back up with food and water. He ascended and met them at 8350m. Chong was very tired and needed assistance. Peacock gave Chong his oxygen as he had run out. They arrived at 7 pm. Summit team also descended to C4. Brown, Maxwell and White left C4 at about 1:15 pm and descended to C2 on 24 May. Arrived at 2 pm, apart from Chong who arrived at C3 at 7 pm on 24 May. Everybody was at BC on 27 May.

  Sherpas:
    Nuru Wangchu, Pangboche, 1977, Everest: 2001, 2002, 2004, 2007, Cho Oyu 2005 
      & 2006
    Dawa Dorje, Pangboche, 22/8/83, no previous 8000ers


expid: EVER08146
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yuichiro Miura
sponsor: Miura Qomolangma Project 2008
bcdate: 2008-04-25
smtdate: 2008-05-26
smttime: 0733
termdate: 2008-05-30
agency: Rolwaling Trek
campsites:
  BC(25/04),C1(29/04,6000m),C2(05/05,6300m),C3(23/05,7300m),C4(24/05,7900m),C5(25/05,8300m),Smt(26/05)

routememo:
  C5 at 200m below Balcony (same as 1953?).

  Miura Qomolangma Project 2008 led by Yuichiro Miura - 2 June 2008

  The summit party left for the top from C5, which had been placed at 8300m, 200m below the Balcony, which the Miuras thought was probably the site of the 1953 British Expedition's final camp, but the 1953 expedition account gives their estimated altitude as 8500m.

  The summit party consisted of Yuichiro Miura, Igarashi, Muraguchi and eight Sherpas (Nga Temba, Pemba Gyalzen, Nima Kancha, Nima Nuru, Phur Gyalzen, Ongje, Thomting and Thundu). They left C5 at 12:30 am (just after midnight) on 26 May, when it was extremely cold and the wind was extremely strong: from the Balcony to the South Summit, the route was covered by wind-blown snow. They reached the summit on 26 May at 7:33 am, when the wind was still strong, but as they passed the south summit, the sun came out from behind the clouds.

  The summiters descended to C4 at 2:30 to 3:00 pm that day and slept there. On the 27th they were down in C2, the 28th in BC, left BC on the 30th, and on the 31st took a helicopter from Lobuche to Kathmandu.

  Yuichiro Miura's son, Gota Miura, was in the summit party, but at noon on 25 May, when they were on their way to C5, he turned back at 8200m. He got pulmonary edema while climbing from C4 at 12:30 am on the 25th, and now developed cerebral edema also. He returned to C4, gave himself injections, and went on down to C2. He was obeying the voice of "someone" speaking to him in his left ear, telling him to inject Dexatron and go down, "it was a harsh male voice, from 8200m ot 8150m saying "hurry, hurry." He had no feeling in the back of his head, his back and both legs. The day before he had climbed with a 30-kilo load without oxygen but was coughing blood. He recovered fully before the team left BC.

  Yuichiro Miura's project was to become to oldest person to reach the summit of Everest. But unluckily for him, a Nepalese man summited: Min Bahadur Sherchan, born on 30 June, 1931, was 15-1/2 months older than the Japanese, who was well-known as "the man who skied down Everest."

  Miura said, "If he's 76 years old and he climbed it, that's wonderful." But Miura was uncertain about Sherchan's success on 25 May since Yoshinobu Kato, a Japanese who summited on 24 May and was in C4 from 23rd to 25th, never saw Sherchan at C4 or above it. The only time Kato saw Sherchan from the 22nd to the 25th was when he passed Sherchan while both men were climbing up to C3 on the 22nd. (Sherchan was identifiable by the badge he was wearing which read "77 Challenge" -- Nepalis way of counting age is not to use the number of years they have completed, but the number of the current year: Sherchan had completed 76 years and was "running" 77.)

  Oxygen was used by Yuichiri Miura sleeping in C1, climbing from 6700m, climbing from 6700m, climbing and sleeping in and from C3 to the summit, and climbing and sleeping to BC. The other Japanese members started on it sleeping in C2 and C3, then climbing from C3 to their high points to and in C2, except for Gota Miura, who used it on the night of 22 May sleeping in C2 and C3 and again from 7700m climbing and sleeping to 8200m to BC.

  Most of the Sherpas used it only in C4 to high points to and in C4, but Nga Temba continued using it down to C3. In addition, C4 manager Dawa Tashi used it while staying in C4 and to C3.

  Besides Gota Miura's serious altitude sickness, the team's health problems were two climbers snowblindness and one Sherpa's altitude sickness. Snowblindness struct Pemba Gyalzen, who had packed up his goggles at C4 and didn't bother to take them out of his pack during his descent, and Muraguchi, the cameraman, who lost his goggles when he took them off at the summit to take pictures and the wind blew them away. Danuru got altitude sickness in C2 on 18 May and had to drop out of the summit-attack team.


  Everest Spring 2008 (Postscript) - 10 July 2009

  Yuichiro Miura, Japanese, and Min Bahadur Sherchan, Nepalese, had the ambition to become the oldest Everest summiter, and they summited via the South Col just one day apart, Sherchan on 25 May 2008 and Miura on the 26th of May.

  According to Sherchan's citizenship certificate on record in the tourism ministry's file, he was born on 20 June 1931. Miura's stated date of birth was 14 Oct 1932. Sherchan was thus the older man.

  But the Guinness Book of Records recognized Miura as the oldest Everest summiter, and explained at the time that Sherchan had not submitted satisfactory documents to prove his claim.

  The subject has come to public attention recently through a story in The Rising Nepal of 29 June 2009, which reports complaints by two of the Nepalese who helped Sherchan get to the top, that he had not paid them the substantial bonuses he had promised them it they got him to the summit.

  The story also quotes the treasurer of the Trekking, Travel and Rafting Workers Union, Suman Prasad Parajuli, as declaring that Sherchan "lied about his age and was not even 76 when he made it to the top." (The article does not state what his actual age was supposed to be.) Parajuli told Jeevan Shrestha that he did not speak about Sherchan's age, and that his interest is confined to Sherchan's alleged failure to pay what he owed his helpers.


  Second postscript -  November 24, 2009

  Sherchan submitted the necessary convincing documents to Guinness Book Of Records and was formally recognized as the oldest Everest summiter in September. He received the Guinness certificate from Nepal's prime minister, Madhav Kumar Nepal, in a ceremony on 23 November.

  He said at the ceremony that he plans to go to the top of Everest again when he is 84 years old. "The age of 84 is considered the incarnation of 'living god' in Nepal," he explained.

  Fixed rope: from C3 to C4.

  Sherpas:
    Danuru Sherpa, 10/4/73, Namche, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X4
    Dawa Tashi, 1964, Beding, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X1, K2 X1
    Nga Temba, 1950, Kharikhola, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1, Makalu X1, Kangch X1
    Nima Kancha, 44 years old, Thami
    Nima Nuru/Nurbu, 20/2/80, Thamiteng, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X2
    Ongje, 22/8/83, Gaurishankar-2, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1, Manaslu X1
    Pemba Gyalzen, 22/7/69, Thami, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X3, Makalu X1
    Phur Gyalzen, 16/4/70, Thami/Yilajung, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2
    Thomting, 19/12/74, Beding, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X6
    Thundu, 18/2/78, Beding, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2


expid: EVER08147
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Hyun Kwon-Sik
sponsor: Jeonbuk Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2008-04-11
smtdate: 2008-05-21
smttime: 0740
termdate: 2008-05-25
othersmts: Climbed Lhotse (EVER-081-08)
campsites: BC(11/04,5200m),C1(19/04,5800m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(11/05,7300m),C4(20/05,8000m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Icefall
  C1 above Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Go, Gu, Park and Wangukal left C4 at 9 pm on 20 May. Gu reached summit at 7:40 am on 21 May, Go and Onjukal at 8:30 am. Stayed on summit for an hour, descended to C4 at 2 pm rest for a while then to C3 where they reached between 5-7 pm, and slept there. Next day to BC. It was good weather, lovely day, little wind. There were about 5-6 climbers ahead of the team and many climbers behind. Park turned around from 8600m as his oxygen regulator did not work; he went back to C2. The team returned Kathmandu on 28 May and will leave on 2 June.

  Fixed rope: 400m contributed.

  Sherpa:
    Onjukal/Wangukal, 19/1/80 (5/10/2036), Olangchunggola, Yamak-9, 1st time Everest


expid: EVER08148
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Vietnam
leaders: Vitidnan Rojanpanich
sponsor: Vietnam Everest 2008 'Vietnam Spirit to the World'
countries: Thailand, USA
bcdate: 2008-04-19
smtdate: 2008-05-22
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2008-05-26
campsites: BC(19/04,5364m),C1(28/04,5900m),C2(29/04,6500m),C3(12/05,7300m),C4(21/05,8000m),Smt(22/05)
achievment: 1st Vietnamese and 1st Thai to summit
agency: Peak Paldor Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 above Khumbu Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Phan, Clement, Ngoi, Nguyen, Rojanpanich, Sherap, Pemba Chhoti, Phurba Chotar "Jangbu", Kami Rita, Pasang Tenjing, Dawa Gyalzen and Jit Bahadur "Thile" left C4 at 8 pm on 21 May. Clement and Ngoi reached summit at 6 am, rest of the members and Sherpas reached summit at 8 am. The climbers stayed on summit between 30 to 60 minutes. Descended to C4. Clement and Ngoi at 2 pm, rest of the climbers at 4 pm, slept at C4. Next day to C2 and the following day to BC. Weather was very good, no wind after mid-day, snowfall and little windy. Ahead of this team there were about 50 climbers and behind may be about 30 climbers. 

  Le climbed up to 6500m on 29 April. He had some stress and did not climb futher otherwise he was physically fit. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 29 May and will leave on 3 June.

  Fixed rope: 800m from South Col to summit.

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Chhoti Sherpa, 27/1/78 (14/10/2034), Beding
    Phurba Chhotar Sherpa, aka "Jangbu", 20/8/71 (4/5/2028),Yilajung
    Kami Rita Sherpa, 22/10/77 (6/7/2034), Thami, Everest X6
    Pasang Tenzing Sherpa, 21/1/78 (8/10/2034), Phortse, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X1
    Dawa Gyalzen Sherpa, 10/5/86 (27/1/2043), Beding, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Serap Sherpa, 8/8/72, Beni-3, Everest X3
    Jit Bahadur Sherpa, aka "Thile", 30/7/78 (15/4/2035), Khare-5, Dolakha, 
      (he was with the expedition as kitchen boy)


expid: EVER08149
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Vernon Tejas
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Everest Expedition 2008
countries: Ecuador
bcdate: 2008-04-12
smtdate: 2008-05-24
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2008-05-27
campsites: BC(12/04,5300m),C1(22/04,6100m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(12/05,7400m),C4(22/05,8000m),Smt(24/05)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 above the Ice fall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Peralvo, Curtin, Hyde, Konrath, Luscher, Musey, Scull, Soebbing, Tejas, Wells, Pasang Rita, Chuwang Nima, Lhakpa Rita, Pasang Tsheri, Mingma Tshering, Dawa Nuru, Ang Pasang, Kami Rita and Mingma Dorje left C4 at 9 pm on 23 May. Reached all the above 10 members and 9 Sherpas summit between 7 am to 7:30 am. They stayed on summit 20 minutes, descended to C4 at 11:30 am, slept there. Next day to C2 and the following day to BC. 

  Groninger left BC on 16 April; he just wanted to leave. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 29 May. Leader leaving on 30 May. Members on different dates.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Rita, 9/9/66 (24/5/2023), Namche-7, Thame, Ever X10, Cho Oyu X6
    Chuwang Nima, 20/8/67 (4/5/2024), Namche-4, 
    Pasang Tsheri, 30/1/75 (17/10/2031), Namche-5, Thamo
    Mingma Chhiri/Tshering, 22/7/68, Thami, Namche-7
    Dawa Nuru (Da Nuru), 25/11/64 (10/8/2021), Thami, Namche-7
    Ang Pasang, 19/6/67 (5/4/2024), Namche-7, Ever X8, Lhotse X4
    Kami Rita, 17/1/70 (4/10/2026), Namche-7, Ever X11, Cho Oyu X3
    Mingma Dorje, 28/5/69 (15/2/2026), Waku-4, Ever X2
    Pasang Rita (Pa Rita), 12/7/74 (2/4/2031), Yilajung, Namche-9

  All of these Sherpas had summited Everest at least once except Pasang Tsheri.


expid: EVER08150
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Gyamtsho Tshering Bhutia
sponsor: Indian Everest Expedition 2008
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2008-04-15
smtdate: 2008-05-22
smttime: 0530
termdate: 2008-05-27
campsites: BC(15/04,5350m),C1(21/04,6060m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(14/05,7300m),C4(21/05,7900m),Smt(22/05)
achievment: Oldest Indian and oldest Indian leader?
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  Summit team left C4 at 7:30 pm on 21 May. Weather cold and clear. Straightforward climb. Team summited same day as Ashok Abbey's Indian team, stayed on summit for 45 minutes, then descended to C4, where they arrived at about 12 pm. On 23 May to C2, 24 May to BC.

  Leader G. T. Bhutia stayed at BC; he was never intending to go higher. 
  Lakpa Bhutia got to about 8000m on summit day, but turned back due to breathing 
    problems, then descended to C3. 
  Haider got to C2 on 24 April, stayed 1 night, but descended to BC next day due to
    bad cough and stayed there. 
  Pokhariyal and Thundup also only got to C2 on 24 April; both stayed one night but 
    descended to BC on 25 April due to gastric problems; remained there till the end.
  Bishnu Tamang got to Namche Bazar on 10 April; he was helicoptered to Kathmandu 
    due to urinary infection.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Ang Kaji/Kazi, 12/7/78, Sisuwakhola, Sankhuwasabha, Everest 15/5/07, 
      Manaslu 16/5/06
    Ang Sona (aka Pasang Sona, but pp. says Ang Sona), 21/7/77 (6/4/2034), Thame, 
      Everest X5, Cho Oyu X1
    Dawa Gyalje, 15/3/79 (according to passport), Beding, Everest X3
    Dawa Tenjing/Tenzi, etc, 31/10/75 (14/7/32), Beding, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X2
    Dendi Sherpa, 22/11/76 (7/8/2033), Gorakhani-5, Solu, Everest 22/5/07
    Gyalze Sherpa, 26/9/77, Kagani-8, Okhaldhunga, no 8000ers
    Nima Grimen, 31/3/82, Gudel-5, Solukhumbu, Everest
    Palden Nima, 29/8/78, Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha, Everest 15/5/07
    Pasang Sherpa, 11/8/75, Jiri-8, Dolakha, Everest 3/5/05
    Pasang Karma, 25/12/72, Paiya, Jubing-7, Solu, Ever X2
    Tashi Sherpa, 4/12/77, Bung-9, Solu, Everest 23/5/07, Cho Oyu 8/5/06
    Tul Singh Gurung, 24/9/83, Laprak-9, Gorkha, no 8000ers


expid: EVER08151
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Arnold Coster
sponsor: SummitClimb Everest & Lhotse Expedition 2008
countries: Canada, France, Ireland, Norway, Poland, Singapore, UK, USA
bcdate: 2008-04-08
smtdate: 2008-05-21
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2008-05-24
othersmts: Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-081-09)
campsites: BC(08/04,5350m),C1(14/04,5950m),C2(19/04,6300m),C3(12/05,7300m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(21,23,26-28/05)
accidents: Browder's eye problem
agency: Everest Parivar
primid: LHOT08109
routememo:
  International Everest & Lhotse Expedition, led by Arnold Coster - 9 June 2008

  The expedition sent 14 members and 13 Sherpas to the summit of Everest on five days, as follows:

  The first summit party left C4 between 8:00 and 10:00 pm on 20 May and were on the top on 21 May at the following times: Shelton-Smith and Fur Tenji at 7:30 am; Dowd and Tenzing at 7:45 am; Stalter and Dawa at 7:50 am; Denis and Ang Babu at 9:00 am; and Lipscombe, who had been the last to leave C4 (at 10:00 pm the night before), and Nima Chhiri at 11:30 am. All returned to C4 to stay that night.

  The second summit party left C4 at 7:00 pm on the 22nd and reached the summit on 23 May. They were Kiela-Palys and Tshering Dorje at 5:30 am; the Otto half-brothers Christian and Eric with Lhakpa Nuru at 7:00 am; and Brash and Phurba Wangchu at 7:10 am. They all descended to C4 to spend the night.

  The third summit party, who left C4 at 7:00 pm on the 25th, consisted of three members and two Sherpas who summited and two members with one Sherpa who turned around before the top. Those who did not go to the top were Laura Mallory and Tan with Pasang Norbu. Laura Mallory gained only about 50 meters altitude in one hour out of camp; she had a stomach problem and returned to C4. Tan was extremely slow; she had reached only 8250m by 1:00 pm on the 26th, so she went back to camp and Pasang Norbu went with her. The successful climbers on 26 May were Adam, Alan and Daniel Mallory with Jangbu and Sange; they were on the summit at 8:00 am.

  The fourth summit party consisted of Laura Mallory, who had now recovered her health, and Pasang Norbu. They left C4 at 7:00 pm on the 26th and summited on 27 May at 9:00 am.

  Finally. the last summit party had only one member, Browder, with two Sherpas, Pasang Gelu and Lhakpa Gelu. Lhakpa Gelu had summited Lhotse on 19 May, gone down to C2, which was the same for Lhotse and Everest climbers, and returned to C4 for Everest. This party left C4 at 8:00 pm on the 27th and summited on 28 May at 10:00 am. But Browder developed an eye problem, and they did not reach C4 until 7:00 pm; he had become blind in one eye and the sight in his other eye was blurred. His sight got better later that evening and was completely normal the next day.

  All members except Shelton-Smith, Stalter and Tan used oxygen from 6800m to their high points to C2. The other three started using it at 7300m to their high points to C2. Their Sherpas used it from C3 to high points to C4.

  Members left BC as from 24 May to 2 June as they finished their climb. Browder left on the 2nd of June, the day after their leader had left.

  Meanwhile, two clients and leader Coster had made a bid for Lhotse's summit. Coster, Kiriakakis and Coster's wife Maya Sherpa, plus two Sherpas, Jangbu and Lhakpa Gelu, left their Lhotse C4 at 0:30 am on 19 May (just past midnight of the 18/19th). Coster and his wife turned back at 8400m at 7:00 am because they thought it was too windy to go much higher, and they descended to C2 that day. Kiriakakis and Lhakpa Gelu, however, went on up and summited at 9:00 am. Lhakpa Gelu got mild frostbite on one of his little fingers and a big toe. The two summiters went down to C4 for the night.

  The members used oxygen from 7300m to their high points to C2 while their Sherpas used it from 7300m to high point to C4.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Babu, 20/12/74, Khumjung, Everest X2, Lhotse X2, Cho Oyu X1
    Dawa Sherpa, 1970, Loding, Solu, Everest X5
    Fur Tenji, 1/5/68, Bupsa, Jubing, Solu, Everest X2
    Jangbu Sherpa, 22/2/81, Kharikhola, Everest 14/6/07
    Lhakpa Gelu, 13/4/77, Thumduk, Beni, Solu, Everest X2
    Lhakpa Nuru, 21/8/81 (5/5/2038), Chaurikharka, no 8000ers
    Nima Chhiri, 30/4/77 (18/1/2034), Gudel, Everest X3
    Pasang Gelu, 28/11/63, Dhimbul, Gudel, Solu, Everest X4, Dhaulagiri X1
    Pasang Norbu, 21/12/72 (7/9/2029), Makalu-9, Everest X2, Kangch X1
    Phurba Wangchu, 5/12/75 (19/8/2032), Waku, Solu, no 8000ers
    Sange, 20/9/73, Sotang, Solu, Everest 17/5/07
    Tenzing, 1/6/82, Patle, Okhaldhunga, Everest X3
    Tshering Dorje, 25/10/74, Beding, Everest X8, Cho Oyu X4, Manaslu X1


expid: EVER08152
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Ashok Abbey
sponsor: Indian Army Snow Lion Everest Expedition 2008
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2008-04-13
smtdate: 2008-05-22
smttime: 0358
termdate: 2008-05-27
campsites: BC(13/04,5350m),C1(21/04,6060m),C2(27/04,6400m),C3(13/05,7400m),C4(21/05,7900m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  Summit team left 8 pm on 21 May. Weather was calm and clear. Team stayed on summit for one hour, then descended to C4, where they arrived between 7:10 am and 8:25 am. Three of the team (Sonam, Tenzin Lektso and Kumchok) stopped at Balcony. They found a climber from Oman, Al Ismaili, who was wrapped up in a sleeping bag and apparently left for dead. They found him alive and helped him down to C4. They lowered him down with ropes. When they arrived Tim Rippel's team was just about to leave. But they stopped them and handed over Al Ismaili over. After resting at C4 Abbey's team descended to C2 and arrived there at 3 pm.

  Abbey reached C4 on 21 May. He did not join summit attempt as he wanted to make sure everything runs smoothly.

  Tsering Yangkyi and Tsering Lhamo reached 7400m on 13 May and 20 May. They spent a night at C3 but did not join summit push as Lhamo had a problem with her knee and Yangkyi was mentally not prepared. They descended to C2 on 21 May.

  (On 29 May, Phuntsok and Tenzi Lektso ran Everest Marathon; Phuntsok finished 3rd and Tenzin Lektso finished 4th.)

  Sherpa summiters on Snow Lion Everest Expedition 2008 led by Ashok Abbey:
    Ang Kaji, 21/8/84, Kharikhola, Solu, Everest 24/5/07
    Bishow Raj Tamang, 29/5/82 (15/2/2039), Kanpur-7, Kavre, no 8000ers
    Damai Chhiri, 19/6/75, Sikli, Jubing-9, Solu, Everest X3, Kangch X4, Cho Oyu X1
    Dawa Gyalzen/Gelji, 18/4/75, Chankhu-4, Dolakha, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X2
    Doma Chhiri, 17/5/1/84, Sikli, Jubing-9, Solu, Everest 16/5/04
    Kami Chhiri, 29/8/82 (13/5/2039), Bupsa, Jubing-5, Solu
    Karma Gyalzen, 7/1/84, Kharikhola, Solu, no 8000ers
    Nang Chhemi/Chhimi, 24/10/77 (8/7/2034), Kharikhola, Solu, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1
    Nima Gyalzen, 22/4/80, Kharikhola, Solu, no 8000ers


expid: EVER08153
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Mi-Young
sponsor: Independent
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2008-04-11
smtdate: 2008-05-23
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2008-05-28
campsites: BC(11/04,5400m),C1(20/04,6000m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(13/05,7300m),C4(22/05,8000m),Smt(23/05)
agency: NE-KO Treks
routememo:
  Kim left C4 at 8 pm on 22 May, reached summit at 9:30 am on 23 May, stayed on summit for about 30 minutes and descended to C4 about about 4 pm. Next day to C2 and following day to BC. Kim returned to Kathmandu on 1 June and left on 2 June.


expid: EVER08154
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Angelo Giovanetti
sponsor: Italian Nodo Infinity Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2008-04-15
smtdate: 2008-05-22
smttime: 0820
termdate: 2008-05-26
campsites: BC(15/04,5340m),C1(18/04,6100m),C2(25/04,6500m),C3(11/05,7500m),C4(21/05,8000m),Smt(22,25/05)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 at above the icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Italian Nodo Infinity Everest Expedition - Spring 2008

  Corazzo, Perlino, Sala, Sottsass, Ang Pemba, Mingma Tshering, Lhakpa Nuru left C4 at 9:30 pm on 21 May. The team reached summit between 8:20 am to 10:20 am on 22 May. The team spent night at C4 and went to C2 on 23 May and BC on 24 May.

  Manni and Ngima/Nima left C4 at 9:30 pm on 24 May, reached summit at 11 am on 25 May, stayed on summit about 30 minutes and descended to C4 around 5:30 pm slept there, next day to C2 and following day to BC.

  Garbin and Giovanetti climbed up to 7200m on 20 May and turned around to C2; it was difficult for Garbin to continue climbing and Giovanetti had headache. Garbin left BC on 22 May. 

  Vielmo turned around to C4 from 8600m on 22 May; he was slow and was climbing without oxygen.

  The team turned to Kathmandu on 29 May. Giovanetti leaving on 30 May rest of the members on 1 and 2 June.

  Fixed rope: 800m from South Col to summit.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Sherpa, 26/8/50 (10/05/2017), Makalu-9
    Pema Chosang Sherpa, (28/01/2029), Khumjung-3
    Ang Pemba Sherpa, 1/10/84 (15/6/2041), Namche-9, Yilajung, Everest 21/5/06
    Lhakpa Nuru, 26/9/72 (10/06/2029), Namche-9, Yilajung, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X3
    Ngima/Nima Sherpa, 2/12/1972 (17/08/2029), Sikli, Jubing-9, Solu, Everest X2
    Mingma Tsering Sherpa, 18/4/1975, Namche-3, Everest X3


  Marco Sala (email) - 22 Nov 2012

  May 22 summit times:
    Marco Sala - 8:20
    Renato Sottsass - 8:50
    Cristian Corazza - 9:30


expid: EVER08116
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Stephan Keck
sponsor: Back to the Roots Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2008-04-15
smtdate: 2008-05-19
termdate: 2008-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to weather forecast, death of a friend
campsites: BC(15/04,5364m),C1(25/04,6000m),C2(27/04,6500m),C3(18/05,7145m),C4(19/05,7900m),xxx(19/05,7900m)
accidents: Altitude sickness, fell into a hole
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 above the Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 at South Col
  High point at South Col.

  Keck reached C4 on 19 May. When we woke up on 20 May he had extreme headache and when he opened his eyes everything was just black and white except for the grey-brown mist lying over his right eye. Richard Brill, expedition doctor of Karl Kobler Swiss group), gave him medicine for cerebral edema and told him that his condition was going to be improved soon. When went out of his tent to meet members of summiting Swiss team he could not identify people at a distance of just 10 meters. At the same time he heard the news that Uwe Goltz (Keck was with Goltz in two expeditions before) was not able to see anymore. Keck descended to C2 and slept there. On 21 Keck descended to BC where he came to know that Goltz is dead. It was shocking news for Keck.

  On 11 May when he had been in C2 after a camp he suffered from pain and he could not locate where the pain originated from ear, tooth, eye or throat. The whole right half of his face pulsed with his heartbeat's rhythm. Then he decided to descend to BC and left quickly for BC. On his way down fast he stepped on a loosening ice block and lost his balance and head over heels he went down in a hole amongst ice blocks. First his left shoulder cracked on into the ground, the whole body turned and knee too in wrong direction - that was fast. He was lying on the bottom of the hole about 5 meters deep. His knee started getting severe pain and he took two painkillers and started to crawl out of the hole and finally he could make it to BC before it was too dark. Next day Goltz and Brill gave him a pack of antibiotics for 5 days. Keck said that he had taken more medicines in this expedition than in the preceding 10 years all together. 

  Keck said that the weather forecast was not favorable for the climbers without oxygen and loss of friend just was not the best condition to keep his motivation high to go to summit. Keck returned to Kathmandu on 28 May and will leave on 29 May.


expid: EVER08140
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Joby Ogwyn
sponsor: Joby Ogwyn Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2008-04-19
smtdate: 2008-05-24
smttime: 0500
termdate: 2008-05-25
campsites: BC(19-20/04,5350m),C2(22/05,6400m),C4(23/05,7950m),Smt(24/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Joby Ogwyn Everest Expedition, led by Joby Ogwyn - uly 2008

  Ogwyn's memory of events on Everest is not entirely clear; "Inaki's death, and my near death, really put the zap on my head but I am better now," he wrote in his email of 21 July. (The Spanish climber Inaki Ochoa was a close friend of Ogwyn; Inaki died on Annapurna I on 23 May).

  Ogwyn arrived at BC on 19 or 20 April, "when the military control (of climbing Everest) was in full swing." He went into the Western Cwm before all climbers were confined to BC till the Olympic torch had reached the summit on the north side; he had no camp of his own but used Henry Todd/Rob Casserley's camp (he was on their climbing permit). But he never climbed above C2 until he made his final summit push.

  He slept in C2 (6400m) the night before he went for the top. He left the camp at about 7:45 am on 23 May. He took with him one bottle of oxygen but did not use it immediately. "I thought maybe there would be a chance to go without it, but I did not want to waste a chance to summit again after waiting for several weeks there (during the climbing ban)."

  "I arrived to the top (on the 24th) around 5 am. I think. The sun was just coming up. There were a few guys from another expedition nearby but most climbers were far below me. I ran out of oxygen just below the top and my summit is something I barely remember at all. It was very difficult to get down. I was lucky to make it without frostbite as it was very, very cold and windy.

  I had no camps of my own on the mountain. I used Henry's Todd's C2 and briefly used C4 on the way up and way down. I got the mask and regulator and a bottle from Henry Todd at C2. I used oxygen from the Balcony (about 8500m) when the winds started to get really bad. Before that it was not so cold. The bottle I had picked up must have been leaking though, as it ran out within the hour and was finished. I tried to find more but other people had no extra.  On the way down I discarded the bottle and other things and just tried to get to C4. I arrived all the way to BC at around 6:30 pm on the 24th."

  In his email of 15 July, Ogwyn had written, "I did summit on the 24th after passing most all of the climbers that night. I left from the bottom of the Lhotse Face (e.g., C2). I used oxygen because it was simply too cold not to use it. I ran out of oxygen on my way down and started to become very sick and hallucinate. I met some Sherpa and guides from Henry Todd's team on the way down and asked for O2; they had none. I continued down to C4 as fast as I could. I made radio for rescue or assistance of some kind. Nothing happened. I made it to a C4 tent and was given water to drink by a Sherpa. [On the 21st Ogwyn wrote that he must have reached C4 at about 8:00 am.] I rested there for about one hour then put on new O2 and climbed all the way down to base camp that night. I was told about my best friend's death (Inaki) and left immediately the next morning to Kathmandu.  ... I was destroyed by Inaki's death and still am."

  "I will return in the future to try again the speed ascent without O2. Still my climb to the top took only about 10 hours with O2."

  Casserley said on 30 May that Ogwyn passed him when Casserley was going up and Ogwyn was on his way down; Ogwyn "looked distressed" and asked for a bottle of oxygen. Casserley had none to spare, but told him to get one from a Sherpa just below, and Casserley believed the Sherpa gave him one.

  Casserley believed that Ogwyn got no higher than about 8700m, where they met and where he saw Ogwyn continue down; Casserley did not meet him again that morning.  Ogwyn did not announce by walkie-talkie that he was on the summit, as was their group's custom, but he did radio that he had an oxygen problem. Casserley, another leader on Todd permits, Kenton Cool and another team's assistant leader, Victor Saunders, knew of no one who had seen Ogwyn in the summit area.


expid: EVER08156
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Min Bahadur Sherchan
sponsor: Senior Citizen Mount Everest Expedition Nepal
bcdate: 2008-04-13
smtdate: 2008-05-25
smttime: 0840
termdate: 2008-05-28
campsites: BC(01/05,5200m),C1(07/05,6000m),C2(08/05,6400m),C3(11/05,7300m),C4(23/05,8000m),Smt(25/05)
accidents: Frostbite (both hands and right leg toes of Dharma Bahadur Rai)
agency: World Summit Explorer
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 above the Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 at South Col.

  On 24 May Sherchan, Pemba Dorje, Bir Bahadur, Lhakpa Nuru, Sange and Dharma Bahadur Rai left C4 at 7 pm. The team reached summit at 8:40 am on 25 May, stayed on summit for 30 minutes and descended to C4 between 7-7:30 pm, slept there. On 26 May descended to C2. On 28 May down to BC. Sherchan's legs were swollen and brought to Kathmandu by helicopter from Pheriche on 31 May. He was taken first to Teaching Hospital then to Alka Hospital as beds were fully occupied in Teaching Hospital. He stayed in Hospital for 15 days. He was suffering from uric acid.

  Dharma Bahadur Rai, according to Pemba Dorje, he stayed long time at 8500m at the time of descent. The weather was also bad. Rai reached C4 between 9-10 pm with frostbitten hands and right leg. Sherchan told that Rai's fingers of both hands except right hand thumb and right leg toes amputated during treatment in Teaching Hospital.

  Pemba Dorje summited on 22 May summited with Maskey expedition; summited again on 25 May from S Col.


  Everest Spring 2008 (Postscript) - 10 July 2009

  The oldest Everest summiter

  Yuichiro Miura, Japanese and Min Bahadur Sherchan, Nepalese had the ambition to become the oldest Everest summiter, and they summited via the South Col just one day apart, Sherchan on 25 May 2008 and Miura on the 26th of May.

  According to Sherchan's citizenship certificate on record in the tourism ministry's file, he was born on 20 June 1931. Miura's stated date of birth was 14 October 1932. Sherchan was thus the older man.

  But the Guiness Book of Records recognized Miura as the oldest Everest summiter, and explained at the time that Sherchan had not submitted satisfactory documents to prove his claim.

  The subject has come to public attention recently through a story in the The Rising Nepal of 29 June 2009, which reports complaints by two of the Nepalese who helped Sherchan get to the top, that he had not paid them the substantial bonuses he had promised them if they got him to the summit.

  The story also quotes the treasurer of the Trekking, Travel and Rafting Workers Union, Suman Prasad Parajuli, as declaring that Sherchan "lied about his age and was not even 76 when he made it to the top." (The article does not state what his actual age was supposed to be.) Parajulu told Jeevan Shrestha that he did not speak about Sherchan's age, and that his interest is confined to Sherchan's alleged failure to pay what he owed his helpers.


  Second postscript - November 24, 2009

  Sherchan submitted the necessary convincing documents to Guinness Book of Records and was formally recognized as the oldest Everest summiter in September. He received the Guinness certificate from Nepal's prime minister, Madhav Kumar Nepal, in a ceremony on 23 November.

  He said at the ceremony that he plans to go to the top of Everest again when he is 84 years old. "The age of 84 is considered the incarnation of 'living god' in Nepal," he explained.

  Sherpas:
    Krishna Bahadur Tamang, 25/9/68 (10/6/2025), Kaku, Solu Everest X2, Cho Oyu X3
    Bir Bahadur Gurung, 20/9/67 (4/6/2024), Dharmapani-8, Tanahu
    Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa, 5/10/70 (19/06/2027), Pare, Namche-6
    Sange Sherpa, 29/1/80 (15/10/2036), Simigaon, Gaurishankar-2
    Dharma Bahadur Rai, (20/09/68), Necha Batase-6, Solu, 1st time 8000er

  Climbing leader for Maskey expedition that accompanied Sherchan:
    Pemba Dorje Sherpa, Beding, 29/4/77, Everest X6, Lhotse X1, Manaslu X1


expid: EVER08155
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Nam Sang-Ik
sponsor: 2008 Gyeonggi-do Korea Everest-Lhotse Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2008-04-11
smtdate: 2008-05-23
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2008-05-28
othersmts: Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-081-22)
campsites: BC(11/04,5400m),C1(20/04,6000m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(13/05,7300m),C4(22/05,8000m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Korean Treks & Expeditions
primid: LHOT08122
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 above Khumbu icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm 
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Chung, Kim Yong-Suk, Lee, Kim Seok-Yeul, Pasang Namgyal, Dawa Wangchuk, Chhumbi, Mingma Thinduk and Mingma Ngima left C4 at 8 pm on 22 May. They reached summit at 9:30 am on 23 May, stayed on summit for 25 minutes, descended to C4 at 4 pm and slept at C4. Next day descended to C2 and following day to BC. The weather was bit cloudy otherwise it was Ok. The team returned to Kathmandu on 1 June and will leave on 2 June.

  Fixed rope: 300m contributed.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Namgyal Sherpa, 25/11/72 (10/8/2029), Khumjung, Everest X1
    Dawa Wangchuk Sherpa, 17/12/72 (3/9/2029), Makalu-9, Mathilow, Ever X2, Kang X3
    Chhumbi Sherpa, 21/4/66 (09/1/2023), Walung-9
    Mingma Thinduk Sherpa, 22/9/80 (6/6/2037), Makalu-9
    Mingma Ngima Sherpa, 20/7/71 (4/4/2028), Khumjung

  Mingma Thinduk went to summit from C2 after having summited Lhotse on 17 May.


expid: EVER08134
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Susmita Maskey
sponsor: First Inclusive Women's Sagarmatha Expedition Spring 2008
bcdate: 2008-04-25
smtdate: 2008-05-22
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2008-05-29
campsites: BC(25/04,5325m),C1(04/05,6200m),C2(11/05,6400m),C3(20/05,7300m),C4(21/05,7945m),Smt(22,24-25/05)
accidents: Snowblindness (Ngawang Bhutik Sherpa and Karma Sherpa)
agency: World Summit Explorer
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 above the Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 at South Col.

  First Inclusive Women's Sagarmatha Expedition Spring 2008

  On 21 May, Pemba Dorje Sherpa, Ms Pujan Acharya, Ms. Shailee Basnet, Ms Maya Gurung, Ms Sushmita Maskey, Ms. Ngawang Futi (Phuti) [actually Bhutik] Sherpa, Ms Nima Doma Sherpa, Kazi Sherpa, Ang Gelu Sherpa, Karma Geljen Sherpa, Phurba Tenzing Sherpa and Pasang Wangchu. Sherpa left C4 at 10:30 pm. On 22 May, Ngawang Bhutik Sherpa, Nima Doma Sherpa, Maskey, Kazi Sherpa led by Pemba Dorje Sherpa reached summit at 8:30 am on 22 May, stayed on summit about an hour and descended to C4 at 3:30 pm. Ms Pujan Acharya, Ms Maya Gurung, Ang Gelu Sherpa, Phurba Tenzing Sherpa and Karma Geljen Sherpa reached summit at 9:20 am, stayed on summit for about 45 minutes and descended to C4 at 4 pm.

  Ms Shailee Basnet and Pasang Wangchu were the last among the ascending team, a falling rock hit Pasang Wangchu's down suit around knee area and was torn, so both decided to turn around at 1 am and reached C4 at 4 am.

  Ngawang Bhutik Sherpa and Karma Sherpa, on return to C4 suffered from snowblindness and had rest at C4 for three days. Karma was given eye drops and hot pads and oxgyen by Maskey as they were on same tent. Next day the two sick persons got some more medications from other expeditions who were at C4. Ngawang Bhutik Sherpa and Karma Sherpa left C4 on 25 May for C2 and following day to BC. Rest of the members and Sherpas except two brothers Pemba Dorje and Phurba Tenzing descended to C2 on 23 May and following day to BC.

  On 23 May, Ms Shailee Basnet, Ms Usha Bista, Ms Pema Diki Sherpa, Ms Chunu Shrestha, Ms Asha Kumari Singh, Pasang Wangchu Sherpa, Nima Kancha Sherpa, Dakipa Sherpa, Phurba Tenzing Sherpa and Da Jangbu Sherpa left C4 at around 9:30 pm. All the members and Sherpas reached summit between 8:15 am to 8:20 am on 24 May except Ms Chunu Shrestha and Pasang Wangchu Sherpa who started little late and were behind others, had to turn around to C4 from below Balcony as wind started picking up. The summit members and Sherpas stayed on summit for 40 minutes and descended to C4 at 3 pm, slept there and next day to C2 and following day to BC.

  On 24 May, Ms Chunu Shrestha, Da Gombu Sherpa and Pasang Wangchu Sherpa left C4 at about 9 pm reached summit at 8:40 am on 25 May, stayed on summit 30-40 minutes, then descended to C4 at 4 pm there. Next day to C2 and following day to BC. The summit day the team of Min Bahadur Sherchan, the oldest person, also was on the summit. The team returned to Kathmandu on 1 June.

  Ngawang Bhutik stayed in South Col on 22, 23 and 24 May.
  Shaile Basnet stayed in South Col on 21, 22, 23 & 24 May.
  Chunu Shrestha stayed in South Col on 22, 23 & 24.

  Pemba Dorje first went to summit with FIWS Expedition first team on 22 May and later on 25 May with Sherchan team from South Col. Pemba said that he spent 5 nights in South Col. 

  Phurba Tenzing brother of Pemba first summit on 22 May and second time on 24 from South Col.

  Hired Sherpas:
    Kazi Sherpa, Tapting-9, 29/5/71 (15/2/2028)
    Ang Gelu Sherpa, Surke, Chaurikharka, 23/7/70 (8/4/2027)
    Karma Geljen Sherpa, Bung-9, 4/2/76 (21/10/2032)
    Nima Kancha Sherpa, Namche-6, 20/4/77 (8/1/2034)
    Dakipa Sherpa, Jubing-1, 6/12/83 (20/8/2040)
    Phurba Tenzing Sherpa, Gaurishankar-1, 23/5/88 (10/2/2045)
    Da Jangbu Sherpa, Namche-8, 28/4/86 (15/1/2043)
    Pasang Wangchu, Bung-9, 25/4/87 (12/1/2044)
    Pema Gelje Sherpa, Bung-9, 30/3/76 (17/12/2032)


expid: EVER08128
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Silvio Mondinelli
sponsor: Share Everest 2008
bcdate: 2008-04-20
smtdate: 2008-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 8600m due to strong wind, extreme cold, and members without oxygen
campsites: BC(20/04,5200m),C2(28/04,6400m),C4(15/05,7950m),xxx(25/05,8600m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  C2 at Western Cwm
  C4 at South Col.

  Information from Confortola, 25 August:

  Highest point reached were on 25 May: Enzio 8600m with two Sherpas; Confortola 8400m without Sherpas; Mondonelli 8300m without Sherpas. The three members used no oxygen.


  Information from Dalla Rosa, 26 October:

  The expedition was organized by Dr. Augostino da Polenza in connection with the Ev-K2-CNR project (which he manages) and its purpose was not to send anyone to the summit, but to put a weather station high on the mountain as part of a chain of weather stations across the Himalaya from the Karakorum to Bhutan.

  The team arrived at BC on 20 April, never occcupied C1 but went directly to C2 which they first occupied on 28 April. They also skipped C3 and slept in C4 on the South Col on 24 May. Their highest point according to Mondinelli was 8600m on 25 May by Enzio and two Sherpas.


  Information from Mondinelli via Dalla Rosa, 30 November and 3-5 December:

  There were three climbing members: Confortola, Enzio and Mondinelli. The fourth member Zulian arrived at BC at the end of April with a trekking group, never went above BC, and left about a week later. 

  The three climbers and five Sherpas arrived at the South Col on 15 May and installed the ground automatic station there. They returned to BC the same day. 

  The three climbers returned to the South Col on the 24th, slept there that night, and climbed above the Col on the 25th: Enzio with two Sherpas, Nawang Dawa and Ang Dorchi, reached 8600m; Confortola got to 8400m without a Sherpa; and Mondinelli went to 8300m without a Sherpa. None of the members used oxygen, while the two Sherpas used it from the Col to 8600m.

  The party turned back before the summit because conditions were not favorable for climbers without oxygen: there were strong winds and it was very cold. Mondinelli, the strongest of the three, had no great incentive to go to a summit that he had been to before. They descended all the way to BC the same day.

  No one on this expedition had any accidents, illness, or frostbite.

  No fixed rope.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Dorchi, 7/11/78, Nava village, Makalu
    Nawang Dawa, 15/1/79, Patle, Okhaldhunga


expid: HIML08101
peakid: HIML
year: 2008
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Toshiko Fujii
sponsor: Japanese on Himlung
approach: Pkr->Ghorepani->Marpha->Jomsom->Muktinath->Manang->Khangsar->Tilicho
bcdate: 2008-04-20
smtdate: 2008-05-01
termdate: 2008-05-07
termnote: Abandoned at 6550m due to bad weather and exhaustion of member
campsites: BC(20/04,4800m),ABC(24/04,5150m),C1(29/04,5150m),C3(30/04,6350m),xxx(01/05,6550m)
agency: Iceland Trekking (Karma)
routememo:
  Fujii, Karma Gelje, Tendi and Dawa Sherpa left C3 on 1 May at 5 am. At 6550m Fuji was very tired and returned to C3. Sherpas asked Fujii to use oxygen to continue but she refused to use it. Fujii wanted to sleep one night in C3 and to continue climbing. On 3 May weather became bad with snowfall and high wind. Same day descended to BC. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 17 and will leave on 21 May.

  Fixed rope: 400m above C3.

  Sherpas:
    Karma Gelje Sherpa, (08-10-1970), Bhujunga-8, Okhaldhunga
      summited Baruntse 1995 [??], Ama Dablam X2, Ev 21/5/2005 with Japanese team
      (Karma lives most of the time in Japan)
    Tendi Sherpa, 48 yrs old, Tapting-6, summited Cho Oyu (1/10/06) and Ama Dablam
    Dawa Sherpa, Tapting-9, summited Cho Oyu 1/10/06


expid: HIML08102
peakid: HIML
year: 2008
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Wolfgang Seeliger
sponsor: Himlung 2008 Expedition
countries: Russia
approach: Bhulbhule by bus->Syanje->Taal->Danak->Koto->Dharmasala->Kyang->Phu
bcdate: 2008-04-30
smtdate: 2008-05-10
termdate: 2008-05-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to crevasses, poor visibility, foggy weather with snowfall and lack of time
campsites: BC(30/04,4752m),C1(04/05,5580m),C2(09/05,6250m),C3(10/05,6600m),xxx(10/05,6700m)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  C3 not the usual C3 site; the usual C3 site is 6300m and further below from the C3 the team put up its camp.

  The team was proceeding to C3 from C2 at 6700m where the team reached around 3 pm. Found big crevasse blocking the route; it was foggy day and could not figure out the condition of crevasse. The team turned around to 6600m and camped for the night. Considering the rapid deterioration of the weather (fog with less than 50 inches visibility and snowfall), the team decided against further exploration of the situation. The team abandoned the climb and returned to Kathmandu on 20 May and will leave on 23rd.

  Fixed rope: 100m between C1 to C2.

  Hired:
    Pemba Tamang, 31/5/73 (18/2/2030), Taksindu-3, Manaslu 20/5/06


expid: KANG08101
peakid: KANG
year: 2008
route1: SW Face
nation: India
leaders: Satish Chander Nair
sponsor: Indian Border Security Forces (BSF) Expedition 2008 Mt Kangchenjunga
ascent1: 71st
approach: From India entered at Kakarvitta->Taplejung
bcdate: 2008-04-16
smtdate: 2008-05-25
smttime: 1255
termdate: 2008-05-30
campsites: BC(16/04,5224m),C1(20/04,6579m),C2(29/04,6674m),C3(09/05,7254m),C4(16/05,7591m),Smt(25/05)
agency: Gateway to the Himalaya
routememo:
  C3 at Great Shelf
  C4 just above Great Shelf.

  BSF Expedition 2008 Mt. Kangchenjunga led by Satish Chander Nair - 8 June 2008

  The expedition's summit push was made by five members and five Sherpas who started from BC on 18 May. They were Bounthiyal, Dahal, Dharmshaktu, Praveen Kumar, Kedar Singh, Pasang Sherpa, Ngata Sherpa, Dawa Jangbu, Sangay Furi and Lhakpa Sherpa. They went to C2 on the 18th, C3 on the 19th, and 21st to C4, where they waited for oxygen and other supplies to be brought up to them from C3.

  On 24 May at 11:00 pm the ten climbers left C4 for the summit and all of them reached the top between 12:55 and 1:00 pm on the 25th. They returned to C4 at 8:00 pm, were in C2 on the 26th and BC on the 27th.

  The expedition fixed 6200m of rope from the first ice wall just above BC to slightly below the col between Yalung Kang and Kangchenjunga's main peak, at which point the climbers traversed to the right on Kangchenjunga's SW Face and thence to the summit.

  They had 42 bottles of oxygen with them. It was used by only the summit party in their push from C3 to the top to C4. All of them used it.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Jangbu, 18/1/80 (4/10/2036), Tamakhani-8, Solu, no 8000ers
    Pasang Sherpa, 27/4/78 (4/1/2035), Lelep-8, Taplejung, no 8000ers
    Ngata Sherpa, 2/2/76 (9/10/2032), Lelep-9, Everest 23/5/07
    Lhakpa Sherpa, 26/11/82 (11/8/2039), Rakha Bangdel-5, Khotang, no 8000ers
    Sangay Phuri/Furi, 24/11/70 (9/8/2027), Makalu-9, no 8000ers


expid: LHOT08101
peakid: LHOT
year: 2008
route1: W Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Mario Merelli, Marco Zaffaroni
sponsor: Independent team on Lhotse
ascent1: 121
bcdate: 2008-04-29
smtdate: 2008-05-21
smttime: 0750
termdate: 2008-05-24
campsites: BC(29/04,5350m),C2(07/05,6440m),C3(18/05,7496m),C4(20/05,7763m),Smt(21/05)
accidents: Zaffaroni frostbite & cerebral edema?
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Independents on Lhotse, co-leaders Mario Merelli & Marco Zaffaroni - 28 May 2008

  The two-man team began their summit push from BC on 17 May when they climbed to C2. On the 18th they were in C3 and on the 20th in C4. They had to stay an extra day in C3 because the wind was too strong to climb on the 18th.

  On the 21st they left C4 for the top at 1:00 am. Zaffaroni turned back at about 8300-8400m midway up the couloir and descended to C2; he doesn't remember why he turned around or at what time he turned back and reached C2. At C2 three members of a Spanish army expedition put him in a tent of Silvio Mondinelli's Italian team and gave him some medication -- for cerebral edema?
   
  Merelli continued on up; from the top of the couloir he moved to the left of the usual line in an area of loose rock, which most climbers don't like but which he is very much used to where he climbs in Italy. He reached the summit at 7:50 am and in his descent he took the normal line, where ropes had been fixed by other expeditions. He descended to C3, bringing with him C4's gear; he expected to find Zaffaroni there. He slept there alone and on the next day, the 22nd, he found Zaffaroni in Mondinelli's tent in C2, and they descended together to BC. (Zaffaroni's memory resumed from about 10:00 pm on the 21st).

  On the 23rd, when they were in BC, Zaffaroni realized he had badly frostbitten toes; he thinks he will probably lose parts of the toes and possibly a bit more. They left BC on the 24th and went to Lobuche, Zaffaroni on horseback; on the 25th they went to Namche Bazar, and on the 26th to Lukla, Zaffaroni still on horseback. They flew to Kathmandu on the 27th.

  Fixed rope: gave 100m to Sherpas to fix last bit just below the top.


expid: LHOT08102
peakid: LHOT
year: 2008
route1: W Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Mario Andrighettoni
sponsor: Lhotse Spring 2008
ascent1: 117
bcdate: 2008-04-26
smtdate: 2008-05-20
smttime: 0715
termdate: 2008-05-24
campsites: BC(26/05,5350m),C2(03/05,6400m),C3(10/05,7200m),C4(19/05,7900m),Smt(20/05)
accidents: Raffaelli's frostbitten toes
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Lhotse Spring 2008, led by Mario Andrighettoni - 28 May 2008

  All three members, plus Antonelli's Sherpa, Tshering Jangbu, who climbed with Antonelli all the time, went to C4 together on 19 May. Antonelli and Tshering left for the top at 1:00 am on the 20th and reached the summit at 7:15 am. They were down in C2 at 2:00 pm and descended to BC the next day, the 21st.

  Andrighettoni and Mrs. Raffaelli (his wife), who had no Sherpas with them at anytime, left C4 at 2:00 am on the 20th, and reached the top of the couloir at 1:30 pm. They turned back here because they had been climbing too slowly and it was now too late to continue to the summit. They were back in C4 at 5:00 pm, descended to C3 on the 21st, C2 on the 22nd and BC on the 23rd.

  Raffaelli got mild frostbite on all of her toes in C3 during her descent.

  Fixed rope used last 30m to top.

  Antonelli's Sherpa:
    Tshering Jangbu, 1/8/77 (17/4/2034), Lokhim vdc, Solu, Everest X2, Lhotse X1


expid: LHOT08103
peakid: LHOT
year: 2008
route1: W Face
nation: Romania
leaders: Constantin Lacatusu
sponsor: Romanian Lhotse Expedition
bcdate: 2008-04-16
smtdate: 2008-05-23
termdate: 2008-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to bad snow conditions, wind & fatigue
campsites: BC(16/04,5350m),C1(22/04,5900m),C2(25/04,6500m),C3(14/05,7300m),C4(21/05,7850m),xxx(23/05,8300m)
accidents: Lacatusu stomach problem
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Romanian Lhotse Expedition, Constantin Lacatusu - 30 May 2008

  Lacatusu developed bad diarrhea at the end of April, so he went down to Namche Bazar to recover; Lhotse and Everest were closed from 1 to about 10 May while the Chinese Olympic Torch team was on the north side of Everest, so he had time to get well at lower altitudes than BC.

  He returned to BC on 8 May and established C3 on the 14th, then went down to BC. On the 19th he began his summit push by climbing from BC to C2 that day. On the 20th he was in C3 and on the 21st he made C4 at 7850m below the couloir. He stayed there an extra day because it was snowing all day.

  At 1:00 am on the 23rd he set out for the top. He left C4 at 1:00 am, but stopped at 4:30 am at 8300m in the couloir. There was too much fresh snow; he was climbing without oxygen and it was very cold; and he could see there was strong wind above the couloir.

  He returned to C4 at 6:00 am, stayed there for two hours and then descended to C2, which he reached at 6:30 pm. On the 24th he was back in BC, and his climb was finished. He was tired, and snow conditions were bad. He left BC on 27 May and was in Kathmandu on the 29th.

  He said he was no longer interested in 8000m mountains but would like to try smaller mountains not yet successfully climbed.


expid: LHOT08104
peakid: LHOT
year: 2008
route1: W Face
nation: UK
leaders: Paul Rogers
sponsor: DCXP Lhotse Expedition
ascent1: 125
countries: Australia, New Zealand, USA
bcdate: 2008-05-05
smtdate: 2008-05-25
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2008-05-29
campsites: BC(05/05,5350m),C1(12/05,6100m),C2(13/05,6650m),C3(23/05,7150m),C4(24/05,7800m),Smt(25/05)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  DCXP Lhotse Expedition led by Paul Rogers - 2 June 2008

  The summit party of Haskins, Moriarty, Sonam Bhote, Ang Kami, Pasang Nuru and another Pasang left C4 for the top at 3:00 am on 25 May, and all reached the summit together at about noon. They returned to C4 briefly, then Rogers and they descended to C3 at 6:00 to 7:00 pm; Sonam Bhote continued down to C2 that night. The others reached C2 on the 26th and everyone was in BC on the 27th.

  The members used oxygen sleeping in C3 on 23 May and in and above C4 and back to C3. The Sherpas used it from C4 to summit to C4.

  Non-summiting members:

  Rogers went to C4 on the 24th but did not join the summit party on the 25th. There were not enough oxygen bottles for another person in the party because of "some theft, some miscalculation," and he didn't mind not going to the top.

  Barisas and Watroba went to C2 on 13 May, then left the team on the 16th. Barisas was unhappy going through the Icefall and did not intend to make a second trip through it and back. Watroba was not strong enough nor technically competent to climb Everest any more.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Kami, 21/8/82 (5/5/2039), Gudel-5, Everest X2
    Pasang Nuru, 17/3/73 (4/12/2029), Kharikhola, Lhotse X1, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X1
    Pasang Sherpa, 23/4/82 (10/1/2038), Ramechap, Gudel-9, no 8000ers
    Sonam Bhote, 3/12/81, Lelep, Taplejung, Everest X1


expid: LHOT08105
peakid: LHOT
year: 2008
route1: W Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Rosa Maria Fernandez
sponsor: Spaniard on Lhotse
ascent1: 118
bcdate: 2008-04-19
smtdate: 2008-05-20
smttime: 0820
termdate: 2008-05-23
campsites: BC(19/04,5350m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(11/05,7140m),C4(19/05,8000m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Team left C4 at 2 am on 20 May. Very cold but calm and clear. No fixed rope from about 300m below summit. Dawa Chhiri fixed 120m below summit. They stayed 30 minutes on summit. Good views. They descended to C2 where they arrived at 5:30 pm. 

  There was a lot of "traffic" of people to go to Everest on 21 May BC.

  Sherpa:
    Dawa Chhiri, Phurte, Khumbu, 19/2/78 (18/11/2031), Lhot X1, Everest X2, Cho X1,
      Makalu X1


expid: LHOT08106
peakid: LHOT
year: 2008
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Will Cross
sponsor: Americans on Lhotse
ascent1: 122,124
bcdate: 2008-04-14
smtdate: 2008-05-21
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2008-05-23
campsites: BC(14/04,5200m),C1(22/04,6000m),C2(24/04,6500m),C3(10/05,7100m),C4(20/05,7800m),Smt(21,25/05)
achievment: Cross probably 1st diabetic on the summit
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC on Khumbu Glacier
  C1 above the Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 on Lhotse West Face below the colouir.

  Smith and Pemba Tshering left C4 at 2 am on 21 May, reached summit at 8:30 am. Time spent on summit 45 minutes, then descended to C4 at 11:30 am. Had a rest for two hours, then to C2 at 5:30 pm and spent night there. Next day to BC. Other summiters on that day were Dawa Steven, Palden, Nima and David Liano. Excellent weather, low wind, thin clouds. Smith returned Kathmandu on 26th leaving 29th. 

  Cross and Palden Namgyal left C4 at 3 am on 25 May, reached summit at 11:30 am. Time spent on summit between 30 to 45 minutes. Descended to C4 between 2:30-3:00 pm. Left C4 at 4 pm for C2 where they arrived at 8 pm. Next day to BC. Weather was windy at the beginning, otherwise beautiful. Other summiters on that day were climbers from DCXP and 3 Sherpas. Cross returned Kathmandu on 31 May and will leave on 5 June. He plans to come for Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu + Xixabangma in Nov.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Tshering, 18/4/79, Khumjung, Everest X2
    Palden Namgye/Palden Namgyal, Phortse, Everest X2, Lhotse X3, Manaslu X1, 
      Annapurna I X1


expid: LHOT08107
peakid: LHOT
year: 2008
route1: W Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Jee-Soo
sponsor: Kolon Sport Expedition 2008 to Lhotse
ascent1: 114
bcdate: 2008-04-18
smtdate: 2008-05-17
smttime: 1020
termdate: 2008-05-21
campsites: BC(18/04,5300m),C1(21/04,6100m),C2(22/04,6400m),C3(12/05,7100m),C4(16/05,7800m),Smt(17/05)
accidents: Yun got sick
achievment: 1st Korean Woman to summit
agency: Himalayan Guides (Bhim)
routememo:
  BC on Khumbu Glacier
  C1 above the Ice fall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 on Lhotse West Face.

  Miss Go, Kim Yun, Jumik, Pasang and Ang Tshering left C4 at 11:30 pm of 16 May, reached summit at 10:20 am of 17 May. Spent an hour on the summit, then escended to C4 at 6:30 pm. Next day to C2. First team to reach summit in this season. Other summiters on that day also were from Korea. Not much snow on the summit face. Summit time weather was good while descending it was windy, cloudy and snowing. 

  After summit while at C2 Yun started suffering from stomach ache at 5 am. He was brought down to BC at 9:30 pm by member's Sherpas and Sherpas of Asian Trekking. All together there were seven Sherpas on the rescue operation of Yun. Next morning 7 am 20 May Yun was evacuated by helicopter to Kathmandu. It was appendicitis burst (Yun). 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 24 May and will leave on 29 May.

  Sherpas:
    Jumik Bhote, 6/6/78 (24/03/2035), Hatiya-1, Everest X2
    Pasang Bhote, 17/10/84 (01/07/2041), Hatiya-1
    Ang Tshering Bhote/Lama, 1/12/87 (15/8/2044), Hatiya-1

  Miss Go plans to come for Manaslu with Miss Oh.
  Miss Go will be going to Pakistan for K2 in June.


expid: LHOT08108
peakid: LHOT
year: 2008
route1: W Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Hyun Kwon-Sik
sponsor: Jeonbuk Everest Expedition
ascent1: 112
bcdate: 2008-04-11
smtdate: 2008-05-17
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2008-05-25
othersmts: Climbed Everest (EVER-081-47)
campsites: BC(11/04,5200m),C1(19/04,5800m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(11/05,7300m),C4(16/05,7900m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal
primid: EVER08147
routememo:
  Hyun, Jeong and Sanu left C4 at 11 pm on 16 May. Hyun reached summit at 10:30 am on 17 May, Jeong and Sanu at 11:30 am. They stayed on summit about 15 minutes, then descended to C4 at about 7 pm slept. Next day to C2, following day to BC.

  Kim went up to C2 on 24 April. He was not in good condition. Rested in BC. 

  Gu, Go, and Park only climbed on Everest.

  Kim Kyung-Keun was BC manager and remained in BC.

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 28 May and will leave on 2 June.

  Sherpa:
    Sanu Sherpa, Makalu-9, summited Everest in 26/5/2007, Cho Oyu in 8/5/2006,
      on Dhaulagiri with Kim Hong-Bin 30/4/75


expid: LHOT08109
peakid: LHOT
year: 2008
route1: W Face
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Arnold Coster
sponsor: SummitClimb Everest & Lhotse Expedition 2008
ascent1: 116
countries: Greece, Nepal
bcdate: 2008-04-08
smtdate: 2008-05-19
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2008-05-23
othersmts: Attempted Everest (EVER-081-51)
campsites: BC(08/04,5350m),C1(14/04,5950m),C2(19/04,6300m),C3(12/05,7300m),C4(18/05,7800m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Everest Parivar
primid: EVER08151
routememo:
  Two clients and leader Coster had made a bid for Lhotse's summit. Costner, Kiriakakis and Coster's wife Maya Sherpa, plus two Sherpas, Jangbu and Lhakpa Gelu, left their Lhotse C4 at 12:30 am on 19 May (just past midnight of the 18/19th). Coster and his wife turned back at 8400m at 7:00 am because they thought it was too windy to go much higher, and they descended to C2 that day. Kiriakakis and Lhakpa Gelu, however, went on up and summited at 9:00 am. Lhakpa Gelu got mild frostbite on one of his little fingers and a big toe. The two summiters went down to C4 for the night.

  The members used oxygen from 7300m to their high points to C2 while their Sherpas used it from 7300m to high points to C4.


expid: LHOT08110
peakid: LHOT
year: 2008
route1: W Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Carlos Pauner
sponsor: Spanish Dhaulagiri I 2008
bcdate: 2008-05-15
smtdate: 2008-05-21
termdate: 2008-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to altitude sickness
othersmts: Climbed Dhaulagiri (DHA1-081-04)
campsites: BC(15/05,5400m),C2(18/05,6400m),C3(19/05,7100m),C4(20/05,7700m),xxx(21/05,8300m)
accidents: Pauner cerebral edema and frostbite
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C2 in West Cwm
  C3 on West Face
  C4 below the Turtle, rock below couloir
  High point at top of couloir.

  Team pitched C1 at 5800m on Dhaulagiri I's SE Col on 11 April. On the 12th they descended to BC, and now the weather was not very good. They returned to C1 on the 17th and on the 19th established C2 on the NE Ridge at 6800m, higher than the normal site. On the 20th they returned to BC to rest.

  They began their summit push on 28 April, when they went up from BC to C1, on the 29th to C2, and on the 30th C3 was made at 7400m on the ridge. Only Alejandre and Pauner went to C3 because Perez had not felt well at C2 and went down to BC instead.

  Alejandre and Pauner left C3 for the top at 3:00 am. Pauner reached the summit at 2:00 pm, while Alejandre, who was not so strong, got there only at 4:00 pm. Pauner was back in C3 at 5:00 pm, but Alejandre took 13 hours to return to cwm (at 3:00 am on 2 May). Alejandre had frostbite on one finger: this was her first 8000er and she had little experience with high altitude. The two summiters descended to BC together and arrived there at 8:00 pm.

  Alejandre's frostbite was the team's only serious health problem. She returned to Spain on 8 May, but Pauner and Perez helicoptered to Gorak Shep on the 13th to climb Lhotse.

  Pauner and Perez arrived at Lhotse BC on 15 May, moved quickly up the mountain since they were already acclimatized, skipped C1 and went to C2 on the 18th. On the 19th they headed for C3, but Perez got only as high as 6700m at 10:00 am and turned back because of a bad headache and cough; he returned to C2 to wait for Pauner.

  That left Pauner to continue the ascent with their two Sherpas, Pasang Tshering and Ang Phurba. They reached C3 on the 19th and C4 on the 20th. At 3:00 am on the 21st Pauner and the two Sherpas left C4 for the summit. The Sherpas had started using oxygen for sleeping in C4, but Pauner had not and was not using it as they climbed above C4. They got into the couloir at 3:30 am and had reached the top of it (8300m) at 8:30 am, when Pauner felt he had no "power" left in his body and legs. He decided to go down, and the Sherpas descended with him. They arrived at C4 at 6:00 pm. It became fully apparent the next day that he had cerebral edema. 

  The next morning, 22 May, Pauner got up at 7:00 am; he was feeling well and started down, but after an hour he suddenly lost his balance, couldn't walk straight and kept falling down. By the time they reached the junction with the route up to Everest, he couldn't walk at all. A German doctor gave him an injection, the Sherpas found a bottle of oxygen, and Catalan climbers coming down Everest gave him an oxygen mask and regulator. Half an hour later, he had felt the warmth of the oxygen flowing through him, and he could walk again. He descended to C2 that day.

  When Pauner got to BC on the 23rd, he realized that he had bad frostbite on the bottom of his right big toe which was painful. He called for a helicopter, went to Gorak Shep on the 25th and was flown from there to Kathmandu on the 26th.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Phurba, 26/8/67 (10/5/2024), Choplung, Chaurikharka-3, Solu, Everest X2, 
      Cho Oyu X4
    Pasang Tshering, 27/12/73, Thamiteng, Everest X2, Lhotse X1, Cho Oyu X1, K2 X1


expid: LHOT08111
peakid: LHOT
year: 2008
route1: W Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Ralf Dujmovits
countries: Austria
bcdate: 2008-05-19
smtdate: 2008-05-27
termdate: 2008-05-30
termnote: Abandoned at 8150m due to frostbite
campsites: BC(19/05,5350m),C1(20/05,6100m),C2(24/05,6450m),C3(25/05,7200m),C4(26/05,7700m),xxx(27/05,8150m)
accidents: Goettler's slight frostbite; Dujmovits lung infection
agency: Thamserku Trekking
primid: MAKA08111
othersmts:
  Climbed Dhaulagiri (DHA1-081-02) by Kaltenbrunner and Goettler and Makalu (MAKA-081-11) by Dujmovits

routememo:
  German-Austrian Lhotse, led by Ralf Dujmovits - 4 June 2008

  The three members met at Deboche, Khumbu, following Dujmovits' ascent of Makalu on 11 May and the 1 May ascent of Dhaulagiri I by Kaltenbrunner and Goettler. Dujmovits arrived by helicopter from Makalu's Hillary BC; Kaltenbrunner and Goettler flew from Kathmandu by plane to Lukla and trekked to Deboche.

  They arrived at BC on 19 May. On the 20th, Kaltenbrunner and Goettler went to C1 at 6100m to re-acclimatize. They returned to BC the next day.

  On the 24th the three members began their summit push. They went directly to C2 at 6450m on the 25th to C3 at 7200m and on the 26th to C4 at 7700m.

  They left C4 for the summit at 3:00 am on the 27th. Thirty minutes later, at 7800m, Dujmovits realized he was too weak to continue. He had never felt healthy again after the head cold (or something else) that he had contracted when climbing Makalu without his proper kit. He went down to C4 to wait for Kaltenbrunner, his wife.

  She and Goettler continued climbing and reached 8150m at 5:00 am at the bottom of the couloir. Now they, too, turned around. Goettler's nose had become white in the first stage of frostbite, and he had no feeling in his feet; Kaltenbrunner went down with him. They met Dujmovits at C4 and waited for direct sunlight to warm them, then at 9:00 am all three descended to BC the same day.

  Now their climb was finished: Dujmovits was told by a doctor at BC that he had an infection in his right lung, Goettler had a slightly frostbitten nose, and all were worn out from their strenous oxygen-less, Sherpa-less climbs on Dhaulagiri I and Makalu since mid-April. They left BC on 30 May.


expid: LHOT08112
peakid: LHOT
year: 2008
route1: W Face
nation: Ecuador
leaders: Diego Fernando Vasquez
sponsor: Ecuadorian Lhotse Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Tengboche->Deboche->Lobuche
bcdate: 2008-04-12
smtdate: 2008-05-19
termdate: 2008-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to difficulty in carrying heavy load
campsites: BC(12/04,5400m),C1(19/04,6100m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(17/05,7200m),xxx(19/05,7500m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  On 19 May Vasquez left C3 towards C4. When he reached at 7500m at about 11 am, he felt that the load he was carrying was too heavy and decided to turn around. He descended to C2 at about 3 pm. Next day to BC alone. Vasquez returned Kathmandu on 29 May and will leave on 3 June.


expid: LHOT08113
peakid: LHOT
year: 2008
route1: W Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Dawa Steven Sherpa
sponsor: Asian Trekking Eco-Everest Expedition 2008
ascent1: 120
bcdate: 2008-04-13
smtdate: 2008-05-21
smttime: 0745
termdate: 2008-05-28
othersmts: Climbed Everest (EVER-081-03)
campsites: BC(13/04,5350m),C1(24/04,6100m),C2(05/05,6500m),C3(19/05,7300m),C4(20/05,7800m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
primid: EVER08103
routememo:
  Eco Everest Expedition 2008, led by Dawa Steven Sherpa - 5 June 2008

  Dawa Steven Sherpa was nominal leader of this Everest expedition, which was actually a collection of 11 independent foreign climbers. He was also on a permit to climb Lhotse, and he scaled both mountains. He moved independently of others schedules but sometimes joined them in sections of his ascents.

  First he climbed Lhotse. On 19 May he went up to C3 without any prior acclimatization trip. He had moved from C2 to C3 on the 18th with David Liano, the Mexican member of his Everest group, and Stuart Smith, an American climbing Lhotse. On the 20th he went to Lhotse C4 at 7800m, at the bottom of the rock formation known as the Turtle below the couloir, with three Sherpas, Palden Namgye (22/9/72, Phortse), Nima Kancha (15/5/80, Khumjung), and Pemba Tshering (18/4/79, Khumjung), who were working with Smith's two-man team led by Will Cross.

  On 21 May, he left Lhotse C4 at 2:00 am and was on the summit at about 7:45 am same day with Stuart Smith and Pemba Tshering. He descended to C2 that day and went to BC on 23rd.

  He immediately turned his attention to Everest. On the 24th he was back in C2 and on the 25th he moved up to Everest C4 on the South Col, which he reached at 12:45 pm. David Liano and Mingma Dorje (1/10/77, Thamo), had already there earlier that day. They left C4 at 10:00 pm on the 25th and went to the summit on 26 May together at 6:55 am. He descended to C2 that day and to BC on the 27th.

  Dawa Steven used oxygen for his Lhotse climb in C4 to the summit to and in C4 and down as far as the bergschrund at the bottom of the West Face, where it ran out. On his Everest climb, he used it up from C2 to about an hour's climb below the Geneva Spur, then again in C4 to the summit and to C2.


expid: LHOT08114
peakid: LHOT
year: 2008
route1: W Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Frank Ziebarth
sponsor: Lhotse Solo 2008
ascent1: 119
bcdate: 2008-04-12
smtdate: 2008-05-20
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2008-05-26
campsites: BC(12/04,5300m),C1(16/04,6000m),C2(19/04,6300m),C3(11/05,7200m),C4(19/05,7800m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 above Khumbu Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 on Lhotse West face.

  Ziebarth left C4 at 3 am, reached summit at 10 am, stayed on summit for two hours, descended to C2 at 7 pm. Next day to BC. Summit day weather was very good. Had excellent view of mountains Everest and others. There were two groups on the summit: two climbers and two Sherpas. Ziebarth returned to Kathmandu on 30 May and will leave on 31.

  Ziebarth plans to go to Everest north side in 2009 or 2010.


expid: LHOT08115
peakid: LHOT
year: 2008
route1: W Face
nation: Finland
leaders: Samuli Mansikka
sponsor: SummitClimb Lhotse Expedition 2008
ascent1: 128
countries: Canada, Denmark, Greece, Netherlands, New Zealand, S Africa, UK
bcdate: 2008-05-03
smtdate: 2008-05-27
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2008-05-29
campsites: BC(03/05,5350m),C1(07/05,5950m),C2(10/05,6300m),C3(18/05,7000m),C4(26/05,7800m),Smt(27/05)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  International Lhotse Expedition 2008, led by Samuli (Mika) Mansikka - 9 June 2008

  There was light snowfall almost every day from about 20 May onwards.

  The summit part left C4 at 11:30 pm on 26 May. They were Hoglin, Kristen, Mansikka, Jangbu, Da Jangbu and Thile Nurbu. The two Jangbus reached the summit on 27 May at 8:00 am, followed 15 minutes later by Thile Nurbu and the three members. They descended to C4 at 11:00 am and went on down to C2 at 5:00 pm.

  All 10 members had reached C3 on 18 or 19 May. After that, the South African couple, DeBruyn and Walker, turned back at 7500m on the 20th; they had expected that this would be their highest point, and they kept to their schedule and left the expedition on 24 May. Five others who also left the expedition on the 24th were Danks, Veldhuis, and Williams, all of whom had very bad coughs, plus Madsen and Voutselas, both of whom had no more time.

  That meant that only two members Hoglin and Kristen, plus the leader and Sherpas, remained to make the summit bid. Hoglin left BC on 29 May, and Kristen and Mansikka left the next day.

  As stated above, three members had very bad coughs. Williams got mild frostbite on his lower lip when he was climbing between BC and C1.

  Oxygen was used by Kristen and Mansikka from C3 to the summit to wherever between C2 and C2 it ran out. Hoglin used if from C4 to the summit to C3. Sherpas used it from C4 to summit to C4.

  Sherpas:
    Da Jangbu, 30 years old, Patle, no 8000ers
    Jangbu, 24/5/67, Patle, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X1
    Thile Norbu, 26/5/74, Choplung, Solu, Everest X3


expid: LHOT08116
peakid: LHOT
year: 2008
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Brian Oestrike
sponsor: Hypoxico Lhotse Expedition 2008
ascent1: 126
approach: Monjo->Tengboche->Dugla->Lobuche
bcdate: 2008-04-18
smtdate: 2008-05-26
smttime: 0715
termdate: 2008-05-27
campsites: BC(18/04,5350m),C1(23/04,5900m),C2(25/04,6500m),C3(12/05,7200m),C4(19/05,7850m),Smt(26/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Oestrike left C4 at 1:20 am on 26 May, reached summit at 7:15 am, spent 20 minutes on summit. Descended to C4 at 9 am then to BC at 6:45 pm. The weather at the beginning was little overcast and windy. At the time of start of breaking trail on colouir the weather became clear, pretty good weather on the summit, beautiful view. Oestrike said that he was the first to reach summit, behind him was Miss Oh. Oestrike tried to summit without using oxygen on 23 May. He left C4 at 12:15 am on 22 May, when he reached at 8250m about 4 am Oestrike felt too cold and was very slow. Then he turned around to C4 where he reached at 5 am and continued to descend to C2 where he arrived at 9 am. Oestrike spent two nights at C2. Oestrike returned to Kathmandu on 29 will leave either 30 May or 1st June.

  Oestrike was on Lhotse ahead of Miss Oh. When Miss Oh reached summit she did not see any fresh foot prints on the summit. When she was at BC Miss Oh asked her cook Pemba to go to Oestrike to ask if he reached the summit. Oestrike told Pemba and Miss Oh that he did not reach summit. [Pemba confirmed what Oestrike told him at the BC. I met Pemba on 8 June.]


  Email from Brian Oestrike to Jeevan Shrestha - June 19, 2008

  I appreciate your email, but I find it very concerning. I made a drastic mistake on my summit day and dropped my camera shortly after coming off the Lhotse Face. I reported this mistake to our base camp manager, Pertemba, even offering a reward to any person that could return the shirt which included an I-Pod, my camera, and a few other small things. Because it has not yet arrived I cannot offer any summit photos. I would however describe summit day in detail as their was in fact another climber who I passed that day.

  All of the details that I reported to you in Ktm pertaining to my departure from C4. To recap I left at around 1:15 or so. The night before I spoke with the Korean female (Oh Eun-Sun) climber who had arrived late to C4. I lived in Korea and am fairly fluent in Korean and so this was well understood because her English was also decent. I gave her some advice about leaving early because of the deep snow I had encountered while breaking trail on the 23rd. She seemed hesitant because she was obviously fatigued but after thinking about it for 30 minutes she decided to also go on the 26th and mentioned she would be starting very early. I suggested she might let me know when she left because we were the only two people climbing that day and neither of us had Sherpa support. So, she departed around 10:30 or so, but I do not recall exactly.

  When I did leave the tent I turned oxygen on for the first time of this expedition. I felt great and began moving quickly and comfortably from the start. I passed her where the couloir becomes fairly narrow, but not at its most narrow point. This took about 3 hours and was around 4:30. The most specific land mark of that point was that it was the first rock piton anchor and was the true beginning to the couloir. We shared a few words but nothing significant beyond "go ahead" as we were both focused on the task. Prior to me meeting her, she had rested at that point for at least 20 minutes obviously waiting for me to begin breaking trail. The rest of the climb I battled with the frozen rope and had issues with my jumar not quite biting the rope. I climbed the colouir which was straightforward except for the very narrow section which had exposed neck. The next section of the colouir remains steep but widens a bit. At one point I had to dig for the rope which I could not excavate because of deep snow. I soloed this for about 10 meters before clipping back in. Around this point you can see the summit which was closer than I expected. I knew it was the summit because Will Cross had mentioned it was the obvious left summit.

  It took me about an hour to finish with the snow and then the rock scrambling. The rock section was not as steep as I expected and only the last 10-15 minutes required decent crampons tecnique on the rock. The summit itself was a bit disappointing because the top anchors were about 3-5 meters in distance from the summit. The summit had two significant anchors about the same elevation but approximately 1.5-2m apart. I utilized this to anchor my bag and camera for the few photos I took with Everest as a background. This location was not exactly comfortable and so I began my descent within 15 minutes. I then stopped after descending for about 15 minutes to a more comfortable place for more photos. I should also note that there were prayer flags on the summit stretching for a few meters just below the drop off into the abyss.

  I then descended for another 15 minutes before coming across Oh Eun-Sun. This was just before the vantage point of the summit. She was obviously fatigued and I had never seen someone breathing so hard. I told her I was jealous that she was so close without oxygen, in Korean, and wished her luck. I was a bit concerned but with only one bottle of oxygen I was focused on descending as quickly as possible. I arrived back into C4 early, packed and descended to C2. This is when I lost my camera. Before realizing that it had fallen off my pack I began my descent back to BC. I reported my loss to the Asian Trekking BC manager Pertemba.


expid: LHOT08117
peakid: LHOT
year: 2008
route1: W Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Oh Eun-Sun
sponsor: Oh Eun-Sun Makalu-Lhotse Expedition 2008
ascent1: 127
approach: Tukura->Lobuche
bcdate: 2008-05-22
smtdate: 2008-05-26
smttime: 1054
termdate: 2008-05-29
othersmts: Climbed Makalu (MAKA-081-18)
campsites: BC(22/05,5300m),C2(23/05,6400m),C3(24/05,7300m),C3(25/05,7700m),Smt(26/05)
agency: Korean Treks & Expeditions
primid: MAKA08118
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 below Couloir.

  Miss Oh left C4 at 10:22 pm on 25 May, reached summit at 10:54 am of 26 May, stayed on summit 10-15 minutes. Descended to C4 around 4:30 pm then to C3 at 10 pm. Spent night there. Next day to BC. On the summit Miss Oh saw khatas and lungtas tied to yellow tape (sling) to the top from the place where ends the main rope.

  Weather: Until early morning there was strong wind like storm. When she reached couloir wind blowing upward. On the summit there was little wind and cloudy around, could not have good view of view of other mountains. Miss Oh said that about 2-1/2 hours to reach summit she saw Brian Oestrike coming down with oxygen. She thought that he was so fast to summit and Miss Oh congratulated Oestrike and he told Miss Oh that he is jealous about her. She could not understand why he is jealous. When Miss Oh reached summit did not see any fresh foot print on the summit area. At BC Miss Oh asked her cook Pemba to go to Oestrike and ask if he reached summit. Oestrike told Pemba and Miss Oh that he did not reach to the summit. Pemba confirmed what Oestrike told him at the BC. I met Pemba on 8 June.

  Miss Oh returned Kathmandu on 9 June will leave on 5 June. She will come for Manaslu in autumn.


  Email from Brian Oestrike, 18 April 2011

  I met Miss Oh Eun-Sun at C4 and spoke with her on and off for a few hours. I lived in Korea and am fairly competent in Korean and so the majority of the conversation was in Korean. Not knowing of her rivalry with my close friend Go Mi-Young (Mi Sun). I mistakenly told her that she was in fact a close friend and customer of mine at Hypoxico. I remember suggesting to her that if she was going without oxygen, then I would suggest starting later to better cope with the cold temperatures.

  We were the only two climbers going for the summit that night and I don't believe there was even anyone else at the high camp. We were both without Sherpa support and I remember thinking how fantastic it was to be only 2 climbers on Lhotse compared to the crowds on Everest. I had brought a 4-liter bottle of oxygen up and so I planned to leave a few hours later than Miss Oh. I can't remember the time, but I did wake up when she passed my tent and remember thinking it seemed very early and she obviously had not followed my advice.

  I believe I started around 1 or 2 am and remember feeling fantastic once I turned the oxygen on. I moved very quickly and caught Miss Oh within an hour. I remember estimating that I was moving at least 3 times her speed. I passed her shortly (maybe 30 minutes) before entering the couloir and only wished her luck as I passed. I remember breaking trail from that point and I believe I was punching through about 6-8 inches in most places, but much deeper in sections of the colouir. It was fantastic climbing and the only noteworthy event was not being able to pull the fixed lines out in a few places in under 6 hours. I cautiously crept on to the top, looked over the top into Tibet, took photos and video, and headed back down within 15 minutes.

  I can't remember exactly where I saw Miss Oh, but it was before she exited the narrow section of the couloir. I believe she was waiting below one of the "gaps" in the rope where the rope was trapped under the snow. I do remember thinking how slow she was moving and how exhausted she looked. She was working incredibly hard and I have never seen a person with such a respiratory rate. I reminded her that we were the only ones on the mountain and that as soon as I passed she would be on her own. Judging by her speed until that point, I would guess she had at least 4 hours until reaching the summit, but that a very rough estimate.

  I descended very quickly and I believe made it back to high camp in under 8 hours from starting. I packed quickly and started descending. My idiotic mistake of the expedition happened after coming off the Lhotse Face. I took off my main base layer that my camera was connected to and I didn't secure it well enough. It fell off my pack somewhere between the Lhotse Face and C2 which was my only summit proof. I stopped into C2 to pack the rest of my things and I made the decision to go all the way to BC that day. I had a suspicion that my camera might be missing, but I didn't take the time to dig through my pack and so I only confirmed this back in BC.

  Although I was upset that I lost my camera. I was not overly concerned that I had lost my summit "proof" because Miss Oh was following my boot tracks to the top. I even stopped over at her BC and passed my contact information on so that she could contact me down the road. I also explained to them that I had lost my camera which in retrospect was a mistake. I later learned that in her summit report that she claimed not to have seen my footprints to the top. This completely outrages me and I can't understand why anyone would lie about such a thing. Perhaps it was because I was friends with Miss Go, or perhaps she wanted to say she broke trail all the way to the top. Either way I find it ridiculous.

  I am very intrigued by your inquiry and am curious if she supplied you any photo proof of her summit? Also is it possible for me to request what Miss Oh said about my climb that day?


  Email from Samuli Mansikka, 29 April 2011

  I am at the moment in Kathmandu getting ready to leave to Dhaulagiri on the morning of 30th.

  I did summit Lhotse on May 27, 2008 and did meet Miss Oh alone on her way down the couloir late on the afternoon of 26th. Her English is very limited and she was suffering from pulmonary edema so I did not come to any conclusion whether she made it to the summit or not. To be honest, I do not know. My group fixed almost all the route from the base of the couloir to the summit. We did not see footprints on the top, but it might be due to winds that morning.

  I am returning from Dhaulagiri at the end of May. I hope we can discuss this matter more then. 


  Email from Will Cross, 12 May 2011

  Miss Oh was nowhere to be seen during my time high on Lhotse.


expid: LHOT08118
peakid: LHOT
year: 2008
route1: W Face
nation: Mexico
leaders: David Liano
sponsor: International Everest 2008
ascent1: 123
countries: USA
bcdate: 2008-04-14
smtdate: 2008-05-21
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2008-05-28
campsites: BC(14/04,5300m),C1(20/04,6100m),C2(22/04,6500m),C3(10/05,7100m),C4(20/05,7800m),Smt(21/05)
achievment: 5th Mexican to summit Lhotse
agency: Asian Trekking
primid: EVER08156
routememo:
  Liano, Nima Kancha and Palden Namgyal left C4 at 2 am on 21 May, reached summit at 8:30 am, stayed on summit for 30 minutes, descended to C4 at about 10:30 am ,then to C2 at 4 pm and slept there. Liano stayed in C2 for two days. Then started for Everest on 24 May. Liano returned Kathmandu on 31 May and will leave on 4 or 5 June.

  Sherpas:
    Nima Kancha, 15/5/80 (02/02/2037), Khumjung-1, Everest X2
    Palden Namgyal, 22/9/72 (04/06/2021), Phortse, Everest X2, Manaslu X1, 
      Lhotse X3, Anna X1


expid: LHOT08119
peakid: LHOT
year: 2008
route1: W Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Choi In-Ho
sponsor: 2008 Korean Jeongbuk Lhotse Expedition
ascent1: 113
bcdate: 2008-04-14
smtdate: 2008-05-17
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2008-05-25
campsites: BC(14/04,5400m),C1(18/04,5900m),C2(22/04,6400m),C3(11/05,7200m),C4(16/05,7800m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Advance BC Trekking
routememo:
  Choi In-Ho and Mingma left C4 at 11 pm of 16 May, reached summit at 11 am of 17 May, stayed on summit about 30 minutes, descended to C4 at 4 pm. Spent night, next day to C2 and following day to BC. There were nine Koreans and four Sherpas also summited on same day. Summit was cloudy. 

  Choi Kyong-Ho (brother of Choi In-Ho) climbed up to C3 on 11 May. He had headache, no more climbing. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 27 May and will leave on 31 May.

  Sherpa:
    Mingma Thunduk Sherpa, 14/4/69 (02/01/2026), Tumlingtar, Makalu-5, Everest X2


expid: LHOT08120
peakid: LHOT
year: 2008
route1: W Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Hong Bo-Seong
sponsor: Dynamic Busan 2008 Makalu-Lhotse Expedition
ascent1: 115
approach: Makalu BC->East Col->Panch Pokhari->Dingboche
bcdate: 2008-05-13
smtdate: 2008-05-18
smttime: 0945
termdate: 2008-05-20
othersmts: Climbed Makalu (MAKA-081-19)
campsites: BC(13/05,5180m),C2(16/05,6500m),C4(17/05,7850m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
primid: MAKA08119
routememo:
  Kim, Seo and Tshering Dorje left C4 at 2 am on 18 May, reached summit at 9:45 am, stayed on summit about one hour, descended to C2 at 2:45 pm and slept there. Next day to Gorak Shep. Summit day weather was very good, little wind. No other expeditions on that day on the summit.

  Hong stayed in BC. Lee, Park and Miss Yu climbed up to little below C1. They were there just for site seeing, not for climbing. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 23 May and will leave on 26 May.

  Fixed rope: 1800m between C1 to C3.

  Sherpa:
    Tshering Dorje Sherpa, 12/10/81 (26/06/2038), Cheskam-2


expid: LHOT08121
peakid: LHOT
year: 2008
route1: W Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Fernando Yarto
sponsor: High Mountain Military Group Expedition
countries: Chile
bcdate: 2008-04-11
smtdate: 2008-05-19
termdate: 2008-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to falling stone that hit Borja
campsites: BC(11/04,5300m),C1(18/04,6000m),C2(29/04,6400m),C3(10/05,7150m),C4(19/05,7800m),xxx(20/05,7800m)
accidents: Falling stone hit Borja's left leg
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  High Mountain Military group expedition 2008 to Lhotse - Fernando Yarto

  Yarto wrote in his email that Borja, Gonzalez, Lopez and Yarto reached C4 on 20 May and slept there. A falling stone hit Borja's left leg while he was having dinner inside the tent at about 5:30 pm. Rescue operation started in the early morning on 21 May.

  Andres, Calvo and Tirapli reached C4 on 19 May.
  Martin and Verdugo climbed up to C3 on 10 May.
  Collao sent up to C2 on 29 April.

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 29 May and left on 31 May.


expid: LHOT08122
peakid: LHOT
year: 2008
route1: W Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Nam Sang-Ik
sponsor: 2008 Gyeonggi-do Korea Everest Lhotse Expedition
ascent1: 111
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2008-04-11
smtdate: 2008-05-17
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2008-05-28
othersmts: Climbed Everest (EVER-081-55)
campsites: BC(11/04,5400m),C1(20/04,6000m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(13/05,7300m),C4(16/05,7780m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Korean Treks & Expeditions
primid: EVER08155
routememo:
  So Yang-Soo, Song Ha-Min, Park Bok-Kyun, Mingma Thinduk, Pema Tshering and Nurbu Sherpa left C4 at 11 pm on 16 May. They reached summit at 10:30 am on 17 May. The climbers stayed on summit for 40 minutes. Descended to C4 at 5 pm. Next day to C2 then to BC. All together about 17 climbers and Sherpas summited on that day. Climbers were all Korean. The team returned to Kathmandu on 1 June and will leave on 2 June. 

  Fixed rope: 200m contributed.

  Sherpa:
    Mingma Thinduk Sherpa, 22/9/80 (06/06/2037), Makalu-9
    Pema Tshering Sherpa, 20/06/70 (06/03/2027), Makalu-9, Everest X3, Dhaula X1
    Nurbu Sherpa, 10/12/84 (25/08/2041), Nurbugaon, Makalu-5, Everest Tibet in 
      21/5/2007


expid: LHOT08123
peakid: LHOT
year: 2008
route1: W Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Agostino Da Polenza
sponsor: Lhotse 2008 Expedition
bcdate: 2008-04-28
smtdate: 2008-05-14
termdate: 2008-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 5500m due to coordinating with members of Everest team
campsites: BC(28/04,5300m),xxx(14/05,5500m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  The team members were engaged most of the time in coordinating with members of Everest team led by Mondineli who was suppose to carry a sensor device on the summit of Everest, under a project which plans to monitor the effects of global warming on mountain. However, the members managed to go up to about 5500m, the beginning of icefall. The team returned to Kathmandu on 31 May and left on the morning of 1 June.


expid: MAKA08102
peakid: MAKA
year: 2008
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Carlos Soria
sponsor: Independent team on Cho Oyu
ascent1: 94th
bcdate: 2008-04-16
smtdate: 2008-05-11
termdate: 2008-05-15
campsites: BC(16/04,5700m),C1(20/04,6700m),C2(09/05,7400m),C3(10/05,7600m),Smt(11/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  21 April to BC, very cold higher and went to get more gear.

  Sanchez never went above BC due to "stomach problems, food problem, many problems."

  Sherpa:
    Dawa Nuru Sherpa, 18/2/78 (7/11/2034), Thami
    Chhang Dawa Sherpa


expid: MAKA08103
peakid: MAKA
year: 2008
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Hong-Bin
sponsor: 2008 Shining-Town Makalu Expedition
ascent1: 89th
approach: Tumlingtar->Num->Sedua->Tashigaon->Kongma->Talakharka->Tangmaru
bcdate: 2008-04-16
smtdate: 2008-05-08
smttime: 0950
termdate: 2008-05-13
campsites: BC(16/04,5600m),C2(22/04,6600m),C3(06/05,7400m),C4(07/05,7800m),Smt(08/05)
accidents: Park got frostbite in his right toes (says not serious)
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal
routememo:
  Kim, Park, Mingma and Chhiji Nurbu left C4 at 8 pm on 7 May. Kim, Mingma and Chhiji Nurbu reached summit at 9:50 am on 8 May. They stayed on summit about 20 minutes then descended to C4. Next day to C3 and on 10th to BC. Park turned around from below 200m of summit due to strong wind and also he was tired. On his descent Park lost his way at 8000m and spent the night in open that caused the frostbite. Next day Sherpas found him around 9 am and brought down to C3. Next day to BC. 

  Kim said that the summit ridge rope was wrongly placed and he put it in right route. One of the ropes was cut by exposed rock which Kim tied to a rock. The team took helicopter from Jangikharka to Tumlingtar on 16 May and plane to Kathmandu same day. Team will leave Nepal on 22 May. Kim said weather on summit day windy after 12 noon. Other climbers summited on that day were 3 Basques, one Italian and 4 Spanish.

  Kim is planning for next year Dhaulagiri or Annapurna or both. 

  Sherpas:
    Mingma Tenzi, 7/11/84 (22/4/2041), Yaphu-9, Sankhuwsabha, Lhotse 4/5/07, 
      Ev 16/05/07
    Chhiji Nurbu, 30/7/80 (15/4/2037), Upper Walung, Makalu-9, no 8000ers


expid: MAKA08104
peakid: MAKA
year: 2008
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Romania
leaders: Alex Gavan
sponsor: Romanian Cloud Climbing Makalu Expedition 2008
ascent1: 99th
approach: Lukla to BC by helicopter
bcdate: 2008-04-23
smtdate: 2008-05-12
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2008-05-15
accidents: Radulescu suffered from altitude sickness
achievment: 1st Romanian to summit Makalu
agency: Nepal Trans Himalayan Explorer
campsites:
  BC(23/04,4800m),ABC(25/04,5700m),C1(29/04,6200m),C2(04/05,6800m),C3(10/05,7400m),C4(11/05,7800m),Smt(12/05)

routememo:
  C3 at Makalu La.

  Gavan left C4 at 2:30 am on 12 May, reached summit at around 2 pm, stayed on summit for about 20 minutes, descended to C4 between 6-7 pm. Next day to ABC on 14th to BC. Weather was perfect till the summit time. After that it became cloudy but no wind. The morning was very cold. Other summiters on that day were Urubko, three Kazakisthanis, one Basque and one more climber whom Gavan met on his ascent. 

  Radulesku when trying to go to C3 from C2 in the morning on 9 May, found that he was not walking in normal manner. He said that everything was normal except that his legs were not under his control. Then he descended to go to ABC alone same day.

  Gavan said that he has summited in 20 days, BC to summit it may be shortest time in which somebody has summited so far. BC to summit and to BC on 22 days. Did somebody has done this before? 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 15 May by helicopter from BC. Radulescu trying to leave on 24 May. Gavan will leave on 7 June. The team did one day trek to Namche.


expid: MAKA08105
peakid: MAKA
year: 2008
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Brazil
leaders: Waldemar Niclevicz
sponsor: Makalu Expedition
ascent1: 92nd,96th
countries: Argentina, Colombia, Ecuador
bcdate: 2008-04-21
smtdate: 2008-05-11
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2008-05-15
campsites: BC(21/04,5700m),C1(25/04,6780m),C2(09/05,7440m),C3(10/05,7900m),Smt(11-12/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at C2 for others
  C2 at Makalu La
  C3 at above serac barrier.

  Makalu Expedition led by Waldemar Niclewicz - 18 & 12 May 2008

  On 11 May Burda, Niclevicz, Wilke and Pemba Jangbu left their C3 at 7900m at 1:00 am for the summit. Quintero and Wilke had stayed on the night of the 10th/11th in a lower C3 (at 7600m) with the German mountaineer Ralf Dujmovits, and came up from that camp at 11:30 pm and joined them.

  Wilke went up from Niclevicz's C3 with Quintero for only an hour, then turned back. The first hour's climb from 7900m is very steep and not an easy climb. Wilke got very cold, so turned around and went down to 7600m. He summited on 12 May: he left his high camp at 7600m, met Carlos Martinez of the Spanish Basque led by Roberto Rojo their camp at 7800m at about 2:00 am and the two went to the summit together at 10:00-11:00 am. Wilke returned to the 7600m camp and found Quintero there (see below regarding Quintero).

  Meanwhile, Pemba Jangbu Sherpa summited on 11 May with a Sherpa from the French team led by Francois Marsigny slightly ahead of Burda and Niclevicz, who got there at 11:00 am. They went down to C2 at 8:00 pm and stayed there that night. They had "wonderful weather" when they went to the top without any worries about bad weather.

  Quintero, who had not been using oxygen, reached the summit at 11:20 am on the 11th and descended to 7600m at 6:00 pm. On the 12th, when Wilke descended from the summit, he found Quintero still at 7600m at 6:00 pm. Quintero now was badly affected by cerebral edema; the things he was saying made little sense: he "was not connected with moment," as Burda put it. Wilke stayed with Quintero at 7600m that night, and on the 13th they started moving down together. It took Quintero all that morning to descend 100m: he was moving like a drunk man.

  At the small col at 7500m where the predominantly Swiss team led by Austrian Peter Gschwendtner had their camp, Quintero found some oxygen bottles without any mask or regulator, but the independent British climber Ted Atkins came along on his way to the summit and stopped to give Quintero some oxygen from the set he was carrying; he took off his mask and put it on Quintero. Then Gschwendtner arrived from the summit and gave his mask and regulator to Quintero so that Atkins could have his own back. From here to BC Quintero was using oxygen normally. The team led by Gschwendtner moved out of their camp but left their tent for Quintero and Wilke to stay in that night, the 13th.

  Meanwhile Niclevicz, Burda and Gonzalez-Rubio, who were in BC on the 13th, were told by walkie-talkie about Quintero's condition, and they and their sirdar went from camp to camp asking if any Sherpas were available to go up and help bring him down. Two Sherpas from the Japanese expedition led by Kazuoshi Kondo agreed to go, and they left BC at 10:00 pm. At 7:00 am the next morning, the 14th, they reached the Niclevicz-Quintero-Wilke camp at the Makalu La and found Quintero and Wilke were there. The Sherpas tied Quintero onto their rope and the four men started down together. Wilke went with them to 6700m and then went on down ahead of them; he was very tired and had been at high altitude without any oxygen for days. He reached BC at 4:00 pm, and Quintero and the Sherpas arrived two hours later. Quintero had been using oxygen all the way from 7500m but now switched off.

  Quintero should never have been on the mountain. "He pushed the limit -- lost a crampon, lost a jumar, lost his consciousness." Niclevicz and Burda hadn't known him before; he was there because he was a friend of another member whose judgement they relied on.

  Except for Gonzalez-Rubio the team left BC on 15 May. Gonzalez-Rubio stayed on, hoping to get to the summit. He managed to reach 7900m on 19 May and then turned back and abandoned his climb. He left BC on 22 May.

  Oxygen used by Quintero as discussed above. Niclevicz and Burda used it from their C3 at 7900m to the top to C3.

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Jangbu Sherpa, 16/2/86 (5/11/2042), Bupsa, Jubing-5, Solu, no 8000ers


expid: MAKA08106
peakid: MAKA
year: 2008
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Giampaola Casarotto
sponsor: Independent team on Makalu
ascent1: 91st
bcdate: 2008-04-13
smtdate: 2008-05-11
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2008-05-14
campsites: BC(13/04,4800m),ABC(17/04,5700m),C1(26/04,6100m),C2(02/05,7300m),C4(10/05,7700m),Smt(11/05)
accidents: Castagna frostbite
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Hillary BC
  C3 at Makalu La.

  Independent team on Makalu led by Giampaolo Casarotto - 18 May 2008

  The team made C1 at 6100m on 26 April in their acclimatization climb but slept there only that one night. The next day they made C2 at 6700m, and on the 28th went back to ABC.

  During this acclimatization, Castagna's toes on both feet became frostbitten because her new boots had not been broken in and the weather was very cold (-30 degrees C.).

  Despite her frostbite, Castagna continued to climb. They went up again from ABC to C2 on 1 May and put C3 on the Makalu La at 7300m on the 2nd of May. They returned to ABC on the 3rd.

  They began their summit push from ABC to C2 on 8 May. They climbed to C3 on the 9th and made C4 at 7700m on the 10th.

  On 11 May they left C4 for the top at 12:30 am (half an hour after midnight). They met Waldemar Niclewicz, the Brazilian leader of the the Latin American expedition, in their ascent and moved with him. Casarotto reached the summit at 9:00 am with two Sherpas from Carlos Soria's team and one from the French team led by Francois Marsigny after the French members had abandoned their own big for the summit. Casarotto stayed an hour on the top. The weather was very good, not windy.

  In his descent, Casarotto met Castagna on her way to the summit about 100m below it. She got to the top at 11:00 am with Niclevicz's summit party, and during her descent she met Ralf Dujmovits, who was on his way up.

  Casarotto reached C4 at 2:00 pm, but it took Castagna there more hours to arrive there. She had stopped with Niclevicz on the summit for photos and moved very slowly because of her toes. Casarotto waited for her in C4 and as soon as she arrived, they descended together to C3, where they arrived at 7:00-7:30 pm.

  On the 12th they left C3 at 7:30 am and were back in ABC at 2:00 pm. They went to BC (Hillary BC) on the 14th, and on the 16th, because of Castagna's frostbitten toes, they flew by helicopter to Lukla and by scheduled flights to Kathmandu.

  The team had not taken oxygen with them, but Castagna was given some above C4 for two minutes by Niclevicz because the weather was so cold.

  Niclevicz and Burda said 18 May that Castagna was hypothermic, and they gave her some of their limited supply of hot tea; she even asked for more, but they had very little to spare. They kept waiting for her when they descended to make sure she was all right.


expid: MAKA08107
peakid: MAKA
year: 2008
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Zdenek Hruby
sponsor: Dhaulagiri & Annapurna Czech Expedition 2008
ascent1: 110 w/Aus
approach: Helicopter from Lukla to Hillary BC 16 May
bcdate: 2008-05-16
smtdate: 2008-05-21
smttime: 1115
termdate: 2008-05-23
othersmts: Climbed Dhaulagiri (DHA1-081-08)
campsites: BC(16/05,5700m),C2(18/05,6400m),C3(19/05,7400m),C4(20/05,7600m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
primid: DHA108108
routememo:
  C3 at Makalu La.

  After their success on Dhaulagiri I, their return to Kathmandu and their decision to go to Makalu instead of Annapurna I, the team flew by helicopter to Hillary base camp on 16 May and immediately went to their BC at 5700m. They were still well acclimatized and moved up Makalu quickly, skipping the normal C1 and going directly to C2 (actually their C1) at 6400m on the 18th, and C3 at 7400m on the Makalu La on the 19th. They planned to make their C4 at 7600m on the 20th, but only Jaros got there; Hruby stopped at 7200m. "He had no power" and slept there in the tent of Ted Atkins, a British independent climber, during the nights of the 20th and 21st. Jaros went on up to camp at 7600m. 

  On the 21st, Jaros left the camp at 7600m at 1:30 am to go to the summit with Ted Atkins and Andrew Lock, Australian. Jaros reached the summit at 11:00-11:30 am, descended to the camp at 7600m at 2:00 pm and went on down to 7200m, where at 4:00 pm, he met Hruby. They both slept there that night. On the 22nd they were in BC, on the 23rd they moved down to a site where a helicopter could reach them and on the 25th they returned directly to Kathmandu.


expid: MAKA08108
peakid: MAKA
year: 2008
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Andrew Lock
sponsor: Independent team on Makalu
ascent1: 110 w/Czech
countries: Mexico, UK
approach: Helicopter to Hillary BC 23 April
smtdate: 2008-05-21
smttime: 1115
termdate: 2008-05-24
campsites: ABC(28/04,5650m),C1(05/05,6200m),C2(06/05,6700m),C3(12/05,7400m),C4(20/05,7950m),Smt(21/05)
accidents: Chest infection by all 3 members
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  Independent team on Makalu, led by Andrew Lock - 27 May 2008

  C4 was established at 7950m by Lock and Ponce de Leon on 20 May, and at 3:45 am they left the camp for the summit. Ponce de Leon turned back at 8100m at about 6:00 am because of his chest infection, for which he had taken medication that made him weak. He descended to C4 to wait for Lock, who summited at 11:15 am in excellent weather, warm and wind no problem. Lock rejoined Ponce de Leon in C4 at 1:30 pm and both descended to C3 at 4:30 pm. They were back in BC on the 22nd.

  Ward had turned back from C2 to BC on 12 May with a bad headache. He started his own summit push from BC on 16 May, a day ahead of the Lock and Ponce de Lean, to go to C3 on the 17th and stay there for two nights to acclimatize. But he stayed in C3 only one night and made a low C4 at 7600m on the 18th. On the 19th he tried for the summit with Colombian Fernando Gonzalez-Rubio from 7600m. But Ward managed to get only to 7800m, Gonzalez-Rubio a little higher, and then they descended together to C3. Ward's climb was finished.


  Email from Billie 25 May 2008 Dispatch from Andrew Lock

  Success - 23 May 2008 - 18:30

  At 11: 15 am, 21 May 08, I stood on the summit Mt Makalu 8470 metres, world's highest mountain and the 13th summit in my quest to climb all 14 of the world's 8000ers.

  It was a beautiful summit on a beautiful day and a fantastic relief after all the obstacles we'd encountered during this expedition. Success did not come easily and unfortunately neither Hector nor Neil was able to join me on top.

  Having set out on the 17th, Hector and I climbed directly to C2 in hot but good snow conditions. Neil had gone a day ahead of us to get extra acclimatization and on this day climbed to C3. Hector and I moved to C3 on the 18th, expecting to find him there, only to discover that he'd moved up to C4, obviously feeling strong in the altitude. The 19th brought unforecast winds and a number of climbers, including Neil, were forced to abandon their summit attempts from high on the mountain. Hector and I decided to delay our summit attempt by a day, and spent that day in C3, resting, rehydrating and trying to analyse various weather forecasts. We decided the 21st was the best chance for success and on the 20th moved up to C4 at 7950m.

  There we crammed into a tiny summit tent and debated the merits of waiting for the warm of dawn or setting off around midnight to beat the regular change in the weather around 10 am. We decided that the weather would hold and went for the late start of 3:45 am.

  From the start Hector suffered extreme exhaustion, probably a combination fo altitude and all the ailments that had afflicted him throughout the expedition. It was a great disappointment to see him turn around at about 8100 metres. I continued on with 2 other climbers, Ted Atkins (UK) and Radek Jaros (Czech Republic). We made good time over the lower snow slopes and into the rock buttress leading to the summit ridge. Fun scrambling for several hundred metres and a few snow ramps led onto the ridge, followed by a short traverse to the false summit. Lenticular clouds right on the summit had teased us throughtout the morning but as we approached the top they backed off and we traversed along the delicate ridge to the pointed, true summit, 7-1/2 hours after setting out from C4.

  It had been a long and difficult expedition and it was a great feeling to hug the tiny summit and look down upon the world. Everest stood tall and proud a few kilometres away and hundreds of peaks of the Himalayan chain stretched east and west of me. My only regret was that neither Hector nor Neil were able to share the view.

  After 15 minutes on top I reluctantly eased back down the ridge and down climbed quickly to C4 and, with Hector, to the safer altitude of C3. Yesterday we descended in storm all the way to base camp. We had been lucky to steal a brief window in the weather.

  We are now waiting for porters to help us trek back to civilization but in the meantime it is a great relief to sleep on solid ground without worry of avalanche or blizzard. We'll be here for days yet, so plenty of time to collect my thoughts and send a final dispatch. Off now to the dining tent for some fresh food.


expid: MAKA08109
peakid: MAKA
year: 2008
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Portugal
leaders: Joao Garcia
sponsor: International Makalu
ascent1: 107
countries: Belgium
approach: Hillary BC by helicopter on 23 April
bcdate: 2008-04-28
smtdate: 2008-05-19
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2008-05-24
campsites: BC(28/04,5680m),C1(02/05,6300m),C2(06/05,6700m),C3(17/05,7400m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(19/05)
accidents: Garcia frostbite
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  International Makalu, led by Joao Garcia - 27 May 2008

  Both members went to 7900m and established C4 there on 18 May. They made their summit bids separately on the 19th. Garcia left C4 at 2:00 am, while Fohal, who was dehydrated from the climb to C4, stayed longer in camp and didn't leave until 6:00 am.

  Fohal was not strong. He got to just above 8000m alone at 7:00 am and then turned around and descended to C3 for the night.

  Garcia thinks he was the first to reach the summit on the 19th when he got there at about 11:00 am, having passed Kazakhstani Denis Urubko, Australian Blair Fahaley and his Sherpa, Frenchman Francois Marsigny and his Sherpa on his (Garcia's) way up. He spent the night in C4. In his descent on the 20th, he joined Fohal at C3 at 7:00 am, and they both went all the way down to BC that day.

  Garcia's nose got frostbitten on the 19th on his way to the summit, so he asked for helicopter evacuation. On the 24th he left BC and went to Hillary BC, and on the 25th to Yangri Kharka, where a helicopter picked him up on the 27th and flew him to Kathmandu.


expid: MAKA08110
peakid: MAKA
year: 2008
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Kazakhstan
leaders: Denis Urubko
sponsor: Kazakhstan Makalu
ascent1: 98th
bcdate: 2008-04-21
smtdate: 2008-05-12
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2008-05-14
campsites: BC(21/04,5650m),C1(22/04,6150m),C2(27/04,6780m),C3(02/05,7400m),C4(11/05,7900m),Smt(12/05)
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  C3 at Makalu La
  C4 at above Icefall.

  Kazakhstan Makalu, led by Denis Urubko - 20 May 2008

  The team arrive at the Hillary BC (4800m) by helicopter on 19 April. The helicopter was supposed to return to Lukla to pick up their baggage and other Makalu climbers for a second trip, but when it landed at Hillary BC, some parts were broken and it could not take off. So the four Kazakhstanis trekked to their BC at 5650m in lightweight clothing with little food, two low altitude tents and three sleeping bags. They had to borrow clothes and gear from other teams and eat as guests of the others.

  They arrived at their BC on 21 April and made C1 at 6150m the next day. On the 23rd they returned to BC. On the 25th their sirdar arrived with other teams, but the Kazakhstani's baggage had been left off at 4800m; porters brought it to 5300m on the 25th.

  Without waiting for their baggage to turn up at BC, Urubko and his teammates left BC for C1 on 26 April, on 27th made C2 at 6700m and on 28th went down directly to BC, where they found all of their baggage.

  On the 1st of May they went up from BC to C2 and on the 2nd they established C3 at 7400m on the Makalu La. On the 4th they descended once again to BC and on the 6th went down to Hillary BC to rest and breathe the air of a lower altitude. But on the 7th they were back in BC for their summit push.

  On 9 May they climbed from BC to C2, on the 10th to C3 and on the 11th to 7900m to make C4 there. The four left C4 for the summit at 4:00 am of the 12th and reached the summit together at 12:00 noon. They returned to C4 at 4:00 pm, and here Dedeshko, Sharipova and Shutov stayed for the night. But since they had only one small tent at C4, Urubko felt it was better for them if he went on down to C3, which he reached at 6:00 pm. All of them descended to BC on the 13th, and they left BC the next day to go quickly to Kathmandu for their flight out of Nepal on the 21st. They flew from Tumlingtar to Kathmandu on the 20th.


expid: MAKA08111
peakid: MAKA
year: 2008
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Ralf Dujmovits
sponsor: Try Again Expedition
ascent1: 93rd
approach: Helicopter to Hillary BC
bcdate: 2008-04-19
smtdate: 2008-05-11
smttime: 1215
termdate: 2008-05-13
othersmts: Attempted Lhotse (LHOT-081-11)
campsites: BC(19/04,5650m),C1(23/04,6200m),C2(24/04,6650m),C3(02/05,7400m),C4(14/05,7650m),Smt(11/05)
accidents: Dujmovits temporary blindness and head cold
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Try Again Expedition to Makalu, Ralf Dujmovits only member - 4 June 2008

  Dujmovits flew by helicopter from Lukla to Hillary BC on 18 April. Unluckily the helicopter made a hard landing on the 19th and could not operate, so it could not bring his baggage, as it was scheduled to do on the 20th. He went to his BC on the 19th where he pitched his tent.

  On the 23rd he decided to climb without his equipment, and "this was my big mistake." He went up without a sleeping bag and with only a bivy bag for a tent. He camped at C1 at 6200m that night and the next night camped at C2 at 6650m. On the 25th he went down to BC. He now had a head cold, so he took some antibiotics to recover.

  When he returned to his bivy bag at C2 on the 30th, he discovered it wasn't there: birds had stolen it. He had left it in a bag which birds had managed to open, and they had carried off the bivy bag. He rested at C2 on 1 May, and the next day an Italian climber, Carlos Soria, offered to share his tent with Dujmovits, and he accepted the offer. On the 3rd he climbed to 7400m to acclimatize and descended to BC.

  Dujmovits moved up again on the 8th from BC to C2 with Soria, on the 9th they went to C3 (7400m at the Makalu La), and on the 10th went to Soria's C4 at 7650m. That night at 11:00 pm they left C4 for the top, but by 5:00 hours the next morning, Dujmovits was hypothermic and stopped to wait for the sun to come up and warm him. At 6:30 am, he continued up alone and reached the summit on 11 May at 12:15 pm (just after noon).

  He left the summit after 15 minutes, and in his descent he met the Ecuadorian climber Santiago Quintero, who was stricken by altitude sickness; Dujmovits moved down slowly to show Quintero what to do going down the tricky rock section. When they reached the snow, he went on down by himself to sleep in C4, where he arrived at 5:30 pm. On the 12th and and Soria went together to C3, then Dujmovits continued descending alone and got to BC at 8:30 pm.

  When he woke up on the 13th, he found that he couldn't see (this lasted for five days). He called for a helicopter and made his way to Hillary BC, and on the 14th he flew to Deboche, Khumbu, to rendezvous with his wife Gerlinda Kaltenbrunner and her teammate, David Goettler, for their climb together on Lhotse.


expid: MAKA08112
peakid: MAKA
year: 2008
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Colin Scott
sponsor: British Services Makalu 2008
bcdate: 2008-04-06
smtdate: 2008-05-20
termdate: 2008-05-31
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to lack of time after chest infections recovery
accidents: Swift hit by block of ice, chest infection
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
campsites:
  BC(06/04,4800m),ABC(12/04,5800m),C1(17/04,6100m),C2(20/04,6700m),C3(02/05,7200m),C4(16/05,7500m),xxx(20/05,7900m)

routememo:
  BC  at Barun Pokhari (Hillary BC site)
  ABC at start of SE Ridge
  C1  on SE Ridge
  C2  at South Col of SE Ridge
  C3  on SE Ridge.

  British Services Makalu 2008, led by Colin Scott - 8 June 2008

  The SE Ridge in its entirety is an "awesome route well worth climbing," said Scott, and the team plans to return to it in 2010. "To the South Col it is very narrow, but it is always interesting, a beautiful line." The team climbed Makalu "hugging the ridge" all the way, never going over onto a face.

  The weather was fine during the first three weeks, but snowfall prevented significant progress in early May.

  The highest point reached was 7900m, where Haughey, Scott, Ang Dorje and Nima Dorje stashed kit for the team's future C5. The four men had arrived at C4 on the 19th, reached 7900m on the 20th, and then descended to BC on the 22nd to rest.

  On the 27th, Capleton, Gale and Scott left BC to make another bid for summit, planning to spend one night at ABC and each higher camp, but this push was aborted on the 29th on their way to C2 because they had chest infections. The climb was now finished because the expedition had to leave BC on 6 June, and they now did not have enough time to recover from their chest problems which all of the members had, get to the top and be ready to leave on 6th June. They believe they caught their chest infections from other climbers leaving the mountain, coming through their ABC and stopping to chat and have a cup of tea.

  They had fixed a total of 7000m of rope from about 5900m on almost all of the route to 7900m, and they would have needed to fix more above there.

  Oxygen was used by Capleton and Gale sleeping in C3, from C3 to C4 and above, and back to C3. Scott used it in C4 to 7900m to and in C4. Nima Dorje used it in C4 to 7900m to and in C4. Ang Dorje did not use any.

  Dhillon did not acclimatize well, went no higher than 6400m.

  Swift was hit in mid-April at 6000m in the back of his neck by a large block from an icefall which struck the muscles in his neck. He left the expedition in late April.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Dorje, 18/8/85 (2/5/2042), Tashigaon, Makalu-8, no 8000ers
    Nima Dorje, 7/10/80 (21/6/2037), Tumlingtar, Makalu, Everest 16/5/06


expid: MAKA08113
peakid: MAKA
year: 2008
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: David Tait
sponsor: British Services Makalu 2008
ascent1: 87,104
bcdate: 2008-04-10
smtdate: 2008-05-04
smttime: 0530
termdate: 2008-05-22
campsites: BC(10/04,5600m),C1(19/04,6100m),C2(22/04,6500m),C3(01/05,7400m),C4(03/05,7600m),Smt(04,18/05)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  British Services Makalu 2008 (NW Ridge), led by David Tait - 25 May 2008

  The British military expedition actually had three components: the group led by Tait for the normal NW Ridge route, another group led by Colin Scott for the more difficult SE Ridge, and the training group on Pethangtse led by Andrew Hughes.

  The NW Ridge team flew to Tumlingtar on 26 March and trekked to Hillary BC (4800m), arriving there on 7 April, at Japanese BC (low BC at 5200m) on the 9th, and their permanent BC (5600m) on 12 April.

  They spent some time going up in cycles to 7200m each climber going up twice, in order to acclimatize.

  The first summit team, Percival and Dawa Chhiri, left C4 at 7600m between 1:00 amd 2:00 am on 4 May and were on the summit at 5:30 am that day. They had had to move slowly because they were breaking trail and fixing rope above C4. They returned to C4 at 3:00 am on the 5th and were in BC on the 6th (Dawa Chhiri at 3:00 pm and Percival at 5:00 pm).

  Then there was a spell of bad weather.

  Now they went for the summit in three groups:

  The first one consisted of Boeckx, Laycock, Simmonds, Tait and Dawa Chhiri. They got to C2 on 12 May, but then down to BC because of the forecast for snow and wind.

  The members of the next one were Boyce, Herbert, Hing, Skuse, MacPherson, Dayula Sherpa and Lhakpa Dendi. The successful ones were in C1 on the 14th, C2 on the 15th, C3 on the 16th, and C4 on the 17th. But not all of them got all the way: Skuse turned back at C2 and Boyce at C3 because they had had enough. MacPherson left C4 with the successful climbers, but he turned around at 8000m because his toes were becoming frostbitten and he went down to C3.

  The others in this group, Hing and Herbert, plus the two Sherpas, Dayula and Lhakpa Dendi, had left C4 for the top at 11:00 am on the 17th. Since there had been fresh snowfall, they had to break trail again, but they reached the summit on 18 May at 3:35 pm. They were back in C4 at 11:30 pm.

  The final group were Boeckx, Laycock, Simmonds, Tait, Dawa Chhiri and Nawang Gechwo. But Boeckx had to drop out at C3 because of a chest problem. The others left C4 for the top at midnight of the 18th/19th. Laycock turned around at 8000m at 12:30 am of the 19th because she was not strong enough to go higher, so she returned to C4. Simmonds, Tait and the Sherpas reached the base of the couloir between 6:00 and 7:00 am of the 19th. Here Tait realized that his feet were cold but paid little attention and concentrated on the climb up the couloir. (Back in C4 he found that five toes on his right foot were badly frostbitten and one toe on his left foot slightly frostbitten.) 

  They continued up the couloir to the rocks. But now the wind got stronger and stronger. Finally at 10:00 am at 8250m Simmonds, Tait, Dawa Chhiri and Nawang Gechwo turned back to C4. They descended to C3 on the 20th and C2 on the 21st. The expedition's climb was finished.

  The team had no accidents or serious illness.

  Oxygen was used by all members and Sherpas from C4 to high points to C4 and below as long as it lasted.

  Skuse left the expedition on 18 May. Percival left BC on 17 or 18 May to go to the BC of the SE Ridge team (led by Colin Scott), and Boeckx left on the 20th for the same BC. When Tait left on 22 May, the others were waiting at his BC to receive the SE Ridge team if they descended the NW Ridge route.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Chhiri, 20/2/67 (8/11/2023), Lokhim-9, Solu, Makalu X2, Everest X3, 
     Cho Oyu X3, Manaslu X1
    Dayula/Da Yula Sherpa, 21/4/72, Sotang-6, Solu, Everest X2
    Lhakpa Dendi, 1975, Gudel-9, Solu, no 8000ers
    Nawang Gechwo Sherpa, 1976, Lokhim-9, Solu, no 8000ers


expid: MAKA08114
peakid: MAKA
year: 2008
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kazuyoshi Kondo
sponsor: JWAF Makalu Expedition
ascent1: 108
approach: Tumlingtar->Hillary BC
bcdate: 2008-04-27
smtdate: 2008-05-21
smttime: 0540
termdate: 2008-05-26
campsites: BC(27/04,5700m),TC1(30/04,6350m),C1(07/05,6650m),C2(13/05,7550m),C3(20/05,7850m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Bochi Bochi Treks
routememo:
  JWAF Makalu Expedition, led by Kazuyoshi Kondo - 1 June 2008
  (Japan Workers Alpine Federation)

  The expedition flew to Tumlingtar on 18 April and trekked to Hillary BC and their BC, arriving at BC at 5700m on 27 April. They then moved up to a temporary C1 at 6350m because they needed to acclimatize, slept there and then descended to BC and never used that C1 again. They made a new C1 at 6650m on 7 May and went down to BC the next day. On 8 May, Hashimoto and Hatano climbed to 7300m, then down to BC.

  On the 13th, Hashimoto and Hatano made C2 at 7550m and the next day Hashimoto tried to reach C3, but he had to help the Ecuadorian climber Santiago Quintero (member of team led by Waldemar Niclevicz of Brazil) to descend by giving Quintero his oxygen at 7550m. Hashimoto then went down to BC that day; Hatano was already on his way to BC.

  On the 18th Hashimoto and Hatano moved up from BC with three Sherpas to C1, on the 19th the five men went to C2, on the 20th they pitched C3 at 7850m, and at 9:00 pm they all left for the top. The next morning, 21 May, at 4:30 am , when it was still dark and very cold, they stopped 100 meters from the summit (10 meters below the summit) and waited there until sunrise before ascending the final distance from the summit, which they gained at 5:40 am. They went down all the way to BC the same day, they arrived there between 4:30 and 6:30 pm: Hashimoto with Kami at 4:30 pm, Kami Singee Syamba Tamang at 5:30 pm, and Hatano with Fura Dorje at 6:30 pm.

  The other five members got only to 7200m on different dates but for the same reason, a "lack of power."

  The team left BC on the 26th for Yak Kharka, and from there were flown by helicopter to Kathmandu on the 29th.

  Oxygen was used by Hashimoto from C3 to top to C3, by Hatano from C2 to top to C2. Fura Dorje used it from C3 to top to C3, while the other two Sherpa summiters used none at all.

  Sherpas:
    Fura Dorje, 31/1/67 (19/9/2023), Sotang-6, Solu, Everest X6, Lhotse X1, 
      Cho Oyu X1
    Kami Sherpa, 29/6/66 (15/3/2023), Sedua, Makalu-5, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1
    Kami Singee Tamang, 16/7/77, Syamba, Ramche-4, Rasuwa, Everest 15/5/06


expid: MAKA08115
peakid: MAKA
year: 2008
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Hungary
leaders: Laszlo Mecs
sponsor: Hungarian Makalu Expedition 2008
ascent1: 105
approach: Tumlingtar->Num->Sedua->Tashigaon->Kongma->Yak Kharka->Low BC
bcdate: 2008-05-01
smtdate: 2008-05-18
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2008-05-22
campsites: BC(01/05,5700m),C1(04/05,6100m),C2(08/05,6600m),C3(09/05,7400m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  Eross, Mecs and Sterczer left C3 at 22:30 hours on 17 May. Eross reached summit at 16:00 hours on 18 May, stayed on summit 30 minutes, returned C3 at 02:00 hours on 19 May. Weather was very good, one of the best days of the season, no wind, clear sky. Mecs had to turn around from 8250m at 15:00 hours on 18 May to C3 where he reached at 20:00 hours. Mecs was very tired. Ms Sterczer turned around from 8460m. She was tired and worried that that if she went to summit may not be able to get down. She went to C3 with Eross. On 20th all three descended to BC. 

  Kollar did not climb, but remained at BC. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 28 May and will leave on 2 June. The team was supposed to go to Everest north side. Next Spring the team is planning to go gor Everest north side. If not, it could be Kangchenjunga or Manaslu and Annapurna.


expid: MAKA08116
peakid: MAKA
year: 2008
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Blair Falahey
sponsor: Australian Makalu Expedition
approach: Hillary BC (19 April)
bcdate: 2008-04-25
smtdate: 2008-05-19
termdate: 2008-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 8450m due to Falahey's nose becoming frostbitten
campsites: BC(25/04,5700m),C1(30/04,6300m),C2(01/05,6750m),C3(17/05,7400m),C4(18/05,7600m),xxx(19/05,8450m)
accidents: Falahey's nose becoming frostbitten
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C3 at Makalu La
  C4 in seracs
  High point on NW Ridge.

  Australian Makalu Expedition of Blair Falahey - 25 May 2008

  Falahey arrived at Hillary base camp on 19 April and stayed there to recover from a bad case of flu until 25 April, when he went to BC. on 4 May he went to 7200m to acclimatize and back to BC the same day.

  He left BC on 11 May for his summit push nad reached C2. But the next day he returned to BC in cloudy and "snowy" weather, and the forecast was for bad weather ahead. In any case, he had originally planned to go to the top on the 18th.

  He left BC for another summit push on the 16th and went to C2. On the 17th he pitched his C3 at the Makalu La, a "huge expanse of snow and ice," far larger than Everest's South Col. On the 18th he made C4 at 7600m, and at 1:30 am on the 19th he left C4 for the summit with Tashi Lhakpa. "We were strong, without oxygen." They got to just below te summit ridge at sunrise at about 5:00 am. They had a drink and continued up.

  But at about 6:30 am at 8350m, they encountered strong wind, which was blowing snow that instantly crystallized on his sunglasses; Falahey couldn't see through his blurred sunglasses, so he changed to goggles. By now the wind was "just roaring -- I've never seen such wind," he said. "We hunkered down among the rocks for five or ten minutes," then continued up, having to pause behind rocks from time to time when the wind was terribly strong.

  Now spindrift crystallized on his nose, but he didn't realize it. They had just surmounted the rocky area and emerged onto a small snowfield when Tashi Lhakpa told Falahey that he had ice on is nose and it was blue. At this point they were only 120m linerally (15m vertically) from the summit. The wind was very strong, and Falahey did not want to have surgery on his frostbitten nose, so he decided to turn around. "I've got my nose," said Falahey back in Kathmandu; "this (touching the scab) will fall off in a week or two."

  It was 8:00 or 8:30 am on the 19th when they turned back. They climbed past the rocks that were now covered by snow and reached C4 at about noon. Falahey slept there and warmed his nose, then descended to C3, where he slept on oxygen which he had to "borrow" from another expedition since he had brought none of his own. On the 20th he continued down to BC, where he arrived at noon, using oxygen until it ran out.

  When he took off his boots in BC, he found that his feet had swollen (probably from pedal edema). He called for a helicopter because of the condition of his feet and left BC on the 21st to go to Hillary BC. He was picked up here on the 23rd and flown to Kathmandu.

  Sherpa:
    Tashi Lhakpa, 18/11/85, Mathilow, Walung, Makalu-5, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X1


expid: MAKA08117
peakid: MAKA
year: 2008
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Shekhar Babu Bachinepally
sponsor: Indian Makalu Individual Expedition 2008
approach: Tumlingtar->Num->Tashigaon->Tsejang
bcdate: 2008-04-28
smtdate: 2008-05-11
termdate: 2008-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to throat infection and chest pain
campsites: BC(28/04,4800m),ABC(01/05,5070m),C1(05/05,6500m),xxx(11/05,6900m)
accidents: Throat infection and chest pain
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Bachinepally and Mingma Temba went to C2 6900m on 11 May. He got throat infection and chest pain. It was very difficult for Bachinepally to breathe, then descended to C1. Slept there and next day to BC. On 13 May Bachinepally went up to C1 and he faced same problem chest pain and soar throat, so then Bachinepally decided to stop climbing. Descended to BC, in the BC everything was normal. Bachinepally returned to Kathmandu on 18 May and will leave on 2 June.

  Fixed rope: contributed 550m.

  Sherpa:
    Ming Temba Sherpa, 19/9/81 (03/06/2038), Makalu-9


expid: MAKA08118
peakid: MAKA
year: 2008
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Oh Eun-Sun
sponsor: Oh Eun-Sun Makalu-Lhotse Expedition 2008
ascent1: 100
approach: Tumlingtar->Num->Sedua->Tashigaon->Kongma->Yangri Kharka->Yalekhung
bcdate: 2008-04-14
smtdate: 2008-05-13
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2008-05-16
othersmts: Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-081-17)
campsites: BC(14/04,5600m),C2(22/04,6700m),C4(04/05,7400m),Smt(13/05)
achievment: 1st S Korean Woman on summit
agency: Korean Treks & Expeditions
routememo:
  Miss Oh, Thilen and Nima Sherpa left C4 at 8:30 pm on 12 May. Nima had to turn around from 7700m because his toes started getting too cold. He was not in good shape. Miss Oh and Thilen reached summit at 11:30 am of 13 May. The team stayed on summit for 10-15 minutes and descended to C4 around 5 pm. Spent night there. Next the day to BC. Summit day weather was foggy, but no wind; on the summit it was cold. Ahead of Miss Oh there were one Swiss climber with oxygen with one Sherpa. Only four people summited on that day. The team trekked down to Yangri Kharka, took helicopter to Tumlingtar and returned to Kathmandu on 18 May. She left Kathmandu on 20 May to Lukla for Lhotse.

  Fixed rope: 100m between C2 to summit.

  Sherpas:
    Thilen Sherpa, 18/5/68 (05/02/2025), Makalu-5, Nurbugaon, Everest X7
    Nima Sherpa, 14/2/77 (03/11/2033), Makalu-5, Everest X1


expid: MAKA08119
peakid: MAKA
year: 2008
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Hong Bo-Seong
sponsor: Dynamic Busan 2008 Makalu-Lhotse Expedition
ascent1: 88th
approach: (see route notes)
bcdate: 2008-04-12
smtdate: 2008-05-05
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2008-05-08
othersmts: Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-081-20)
campsites: BC(12/04,5600m),C1(16/04,6400m),C2(17/04,7300m),C3(04/05,7600m),Smt(05/05)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  Approach: Tumlingtar->Num->Sedua->Tashigaon->Kongma->Mumbuk->Thapgaon->Hillary BC 

  Kim, Park, Seo, Tshering Dorje, Pasang and Mingma Dorje left C3 at 10 pm of 4 May. All reached summit at 10 am of 5 May. Stayed on summit for an hour. Descended to C3 at 2 pm. Next day to BC. Summit day weather was very good, blue sky, no wind. There was no other climbers on that day. 

  Leader Hong slept in C1 on 16 April. 
  Lee climbed up to 7000m on 1 May; he was tired and stop climbing. 
  Miss Yu was together with Hong. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 23 May and will leave on 26 May.

  Fixed rope: 1800m beteen C1 to C2.

  Sherpas:
    Tshering Dorje Sherpa, 26/06/2038 (12/10/81), Cheskam-2, Sankhuwasabha/Solu
    Pasang Bhote, 3/9/82 (18/05/2039), Hatiya-3, Everest X?
    Mingma Dorje Sherpa, 30/8/50 (14/05/2037), Makalu-5, Tashigaon, Everest X2


expid: MAKA08120
peakid: MAKA
year: 2008
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Latvia
leaders: Atis Plakans
sponsor: Latvian Makalu Expedition
bcdate: 2008-04-27
smtdate: 2008-05-22
termdate: 2008-05-25
campsites: BC(27/04,5680m),C1(02/05,6180m),C2(08/05,6740m),C3(16/05,7456m),C4(17/05,7600m),xxx(22/05,8250m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C3 at Makalu La.

  Latvian Makalu Expedition, led by Atis Plakans - 3 June 2008

  Atis Plakans and his wife Liga Plakane left C4 for the summit at 2:40 am on 18 May. They reached 7850m at 8:30 am, where the French team led by Ludovic Challeat had pitched their C4 tent. They had been climbing too slowly to this point to continue in a summit bid now, and they felt it too dangerous or them to go on. They waited there for the French to return from their own summit attempt in the hope that the Latvians could used the French tent after the French went on down, but the French were weak and had to help each other to descend slowly; they arrived finally at 5:15 pm and needed the tent for themselves. The Latvians descended to their own C4 at 7600m.

  On the 19th, they went down to C3 at 7456m with the idea that Lisovskis and Sadauskis would establish a higher C4. But Lisovskis did not reach C3 but got to only 7200m on the 20th. Now, Mrs Plakane said: "my force was finished" and she could not make another summit bid.

  But on the 21st she went up to 7600m with Plakans and Sadauskis to take tent and food down to C2; they arrived there at 4:00 pm. At 5:00 pm, Plakans went up from 7600m alone in another summit attempt. At 8:00 pm he was at 7900m rested there, and then resumed his ascent. At 1:00 am on 22 May he reached 8250m, which was below the col, and then turned around because he was so sleepy that kept nodding off. He managed to return to C3 (7456m) at 3:00 am. At 12:00 noon, he resumed his descent, taking the camp down to BC, where he arrived at 5:00 pm. The team's climb was finished.

  Mrs. Plakane was the only member to use oxygen; she used it from 7700m up to 7900m intermittently on the 18th, and again at C3 on and off during the night of the 20-21 May.

  Tomins, the doctor, went to C2 on 15 May, then descended to BC on the 16th. He was not expected to climb high.


expid: MAKA08121
peakid: MAKA
year: 2008
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Francois Marsigny
sponsor: Objective Makalu 2008
ascent1: 106
approach: Lukla to Hillary BC by helicopter (which crashed)
bcdate: 2008-04-19
smtdate: 2008-05-19
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2008-05-21
agency: Thamserku Trekking
campsites:
  BC(19/04,4300m),ABC(23/04,5700m),C1(30/04,6700m),C2(09/05,7400m),C3A(10/05,7550m),C3B(18/05,7800m),Smt(19/05)

routememo:
  BC at Hillary BC.

  French objective Makalu 2008 Spring - Francois Marsigny

  Francois Marsigny and Pemba Nuru left 7800m (C3B for second summit attempt) at midnight of 18 May. They reached summit at 9:30 am stayed on summit for 2-3 minutes, descended to 7800m at about 1 pm. It was foggy and waited for between 1-2 hours then to C2 spent night there and next day to BC. Only three persons were on summit on that day. At the beginning the weather was good. With the sunrise it started blowing very strong wind. At a point Marsigny was thinking to turn around at the same time Joao Garcia passed them toward summit and on his return from summit Marsigny asked Garcia about the distance to the summit. Garcia told Marsigny that the distance might be 10 to 15 minutes climb. Then Marsigny continued toward summit. Marsigny said if Garcia was not there Marsigny might have given up his summit bid.

  On their first attempt on 11 May, Marsigny couple and Pemba Nuru left C3A (7550m) at 10:30 pm and they reached 7850m around 1 am [on 11 May]; they started feeling very cold then they turned around to C3 at about 3:30 am and started massaging for about an hour and slept there. Next day descended to BC. The team went to Yangri Kharka, then to Lukla by helicopter and returned Kathmandu on 23 and will leave on 31 May.

accidents:
  On first attempt Mrs Marsigny suffered from facial edema; doctor told her that it will be Ok within few days, but it did not, therefore she did not make her second attempt


expid: MAKA08122
peakid: MAKA
year: 2008
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Ted Atkins
sponsor: Top-out Makalu Expedition
ascent1: 109
approach: Helicopter to Hillary BC 22 April
bcdate: 2008-04-26
smtdate: 2008-05-21
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2008-05-23
campsites: BC(26/04,5600m),C1(28/04,6000m),C2(29/04,6400m),C3(03/05,7400m),C4(05/05,7700m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Top-out Makalu Expedition, led by Ted Atkins - 29 May 2008

  Atkins made two bids for the summit. On the first one, he left C4 at 3:30 am on 6 May for the top, but at 8000m, at the couloir, he turned back. He was high on the mountain, and he had become very tired from the effort to break trail -- too tired to continue on up. He turned around at 11:00 am and was in C3 at 4:00 pm and in BC on the 7th.

  His second summit attempt was successful. He started up from BC again on 17 May and went directly to C2. On the 18th he went to C2; he spent an extra night there because of bad weather but on the 20th he reached C4. The Czech climber Radek Jaros turned up and asked to stay with him in his tent.

  Atkins left C4 for the top at 3:30 am, climbing independently from Jaros. Atkins reached the coloir at 5:00 am and now felt his feet were very cold and partly numb, so he stopped here for an hour, wiggling his toes to restore the circulation. Jaros and Andrew Lock (Australian) joined him here briefly. Atkins went on up to the summit alone arrived there at 7 pm on a "wonderful, windless morning." His toes were now warm. He descended to C3 at 4:30 pm.

  He descended all the way to BC on 22nd, clearing his camps as he went. On the 23rd he went to Hillary BC and beyond, to Yangri Kharka, where a helicopter was due to pick up him and other climbers, but poor flying weather conditions prevented it from getting there until the next day, the 25th; it took him to Tumlingtar, and from there he took a scheduled plane to Kathmandu.

  Atkins used his oxygen in and above C4 to his points and down to between C4 and C3.


expid: MAKA08123
peakid: MAKA
year: 2008
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Ludovic Challeat
sponsor: French Makalu Expedition
ascent1: 102
approach: Tumlingtar->Num->Sedua->Tashigaon->Kongma->Mumbuk->Hillary BC
bcdate: 2008-04-20
smtdate: 2008-05-18
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2008-05-22
accidents: Detry suffered from cerebral edema
agency: Expes.com Treks
campsites:
  BC(20/04,4800m),ABC(21/04,5700m),C1(24/04,6300m),C2(25/04,6700m),C3(04/05,7300m),C4(10/05,7800m),Smt(18/05)

routememo:
  French Makalu Expedition 2008 Spring - Ludovic Challeat

  Bourgine, Challeat, Coudurier, Maural, Pemba Sherpa, Nil Prasad Gurung, Lhakpa Tangdel, Dorchi, Jaya Prakash Rai and Phurba left C4 at 5 am on 18 May. Challeat and Pemba reached summit at 11 am stayed there an hour. Both descended to C4. Bourgine and Maurel summited at 12:30 pm with Dorchi, Jaya and Phurba. They stayed on summit around 15 minutes then descended to C4. Coudurier and Nil reached summit at 2 pm, stayed on summit about 10 minutes, then descended to C4. Lhakpa Tangdel turned around from 8200m to C4 as he was very slow. Pemba, Dorchi, Jaya Prakash and Phurba went down to C3 slept there next day to BC. Members and Lhakpa Wangdel and Nil Prasad slept at C4. Next day to C3. Nil Prasad Gurung stayed with his friend (climbing teacher) Lhakpa who was with British expedition at their C4 400m. Lhakpa told Pemba that Nil slept around midnight and around 2 am of 20th when Lhakpa returned from toilet he found Nil dead. The body was buried about 50m below 7400m under a big rock. 

  Detry suffered from cerebral edema and evacuated by helicopter from BC on 23 April; he climbed up to 6200m. 

  De Fouchier was homesick and Segonne was very weak, both left BC on 24 April; both climbed up to 6200m. 

  Dreyer, Rosset and Wojcik were exhausted; Dreyer and Rosset climbed up to 6900m; Wojcik climbed up to 7400m. 

  The team trekked down to Yangri Kharka and took helicopter to Taplejung from there by plane to Kathmandu on 26 May and left on 27 May.

  Fixed rope: contributed 400m.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Sherpa, 4/9/71 (19/05/2028), Taksindu-6
    Lhakpa Wangdel Sherpa, 19/8/66 (03/05/2023), Makalu-5
    Dorchi Sherpa, 1/12/79 (15/08/2036), Makalu-9, Walung, Lhotse 4/5/07
    Jaya Prakash Rai, 28/3/79 (15/12/2030), Makalu-6
    Phurba Sherpa, 10/3/73 (27/11/2029), Dharan-18
    Nil Prasad Gurung, 18/11/74 (03/08/2031), Sardikhola-2, Khandarjung, Kaski


expid: MAKA08124
peakid: MAKA
year: 2008
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Roberto Rojo
sponsor: Basque Makalu Expedition 2008
ascent1: 90,97,103
approach: Lukla->Namche->Gokyo->Thame->Namche->Tengboche->Lukla->Hillary BC
bcdate: 2008-04-19
smtdate: 2008-05-10
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2008-05-23
campsites: BC(19,23,24/04,5700m),C1(24/04,6600m),C2(30/04,7450m),C3(09/05,7800m),Smt(10,12,18/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC arrival: 19 April Ander, Martinez, Oiarzabal and Rojo after Khumbu trek.

  23 April: Cortabi Tarte, Lasa, Garcia from Lukla
  24 April: Ardanaz and Servosa from Lukla.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Nuru Sherpa, 17/5/74 (04/02/2031), Bupsa, Jubing-5, Ev 18/5/06 & 16/5/07.

  Oiarzaal told Spanish newspaper he was independent of others (with his own Sherpa, Pasang Nuru), but he shared tents and food in C2 and C3 with Rojo and they summited together from C2.


  Basque Makalu Expedition 2008 Spring - Roberto Rojo

  Oiarzabal, Rojo and Pasang Nuru Sherpa (for Oyarzabal) left C3 at 1:30 am on 10 May, reached summit at 9:30 am, stayed on summit about an hour and descended to C3 at 2:30 pm. Next day descended to BC. Weather was perfect during summit climb. No body on summit on that day. 

  On 12 May Martinez left C3 at 2 am reached summit at 11 am stayed on summit more than an hour. Descended to C3 at about 4 pm next day to BC. The weather was moderate, windy and little snowfall. 

  Oyarzabal, Rojo and Martinez left BC on 15 May to Yangri Kharka from there to Tumlingtar by helicopter and by plane to Kathmandu on 16 and trying to leave on 20 May.

  On 18 May Ardanaz and Servosa left C3 for summit at 2 am and Garcia at 3 am, he was not feeling well. Ardanaz and Servosa reached summit at 2 pm stayed on summit about 30 minutes, descended to C3 between 9-10 pm. Garcia climbed up to 7900m where he started vomiting and turned around to C3. Next day all three climbers descended to C2 and following day to BC. The weather was good no wind.

  On 19 May Ander, Lasa and Cortabitarte left C3 at 2 am for summit when Ander and Lasa reached at 8150m at 8:30 am strong wind started picking up and it was not possible for them to go further. Both climbers waited for some time at 8150m then descended to C3 at about 12 noon, slept there. Cortabitarte turned around from about 7900m to C3 due to exhaustion. All three descended to C2 next day and following day to BC. The team left BC on 23 May to Yangri Kharka and by helicopter to Taplejung from there to Kathmandu on 26 May and will leave on 31 May.


expid: MAKA08125
peakid: MAKA
year: 2008
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Peter Gschwendtner
sponsor: Swiss Baruntse-Makalu Expedition 2008
ascent1: 95,101
countries: Austria
approach: Tumlingtar->Num->Sedua->Tashigaon->Kongma->Mumbuk->Yangri Kharka
bcdate: 2008-04-17
smtdate: 2008-05-12
termdate: 2008-05-17
othersmts: Climbed Baruntse (BARU-081-08)
accidents: Rodrigo's toes and fingers were frostbitten
agency: Multi Adventure
primid: BARU08108
campsites:
  BC(17/04,4700m),ABC(02/05,5700m),C2(05/05,6600m),C3(06/05,7400m),C4A(11/05,7600m),C4B(12/05,7700m),C4C(12/05,7800m),Smt(12-13/05)

routememo:
  Swiss Baruntse - Makalu Expedition 2008 Spring 2008 - Peter Gschwendtner

  On 11 May, Gschwendtner, Volken and Lil Bahadur Tamang left C4A (7600m) at 10 pm for summit. Volken, when reached at 7800m he got sick and became completely blacked out then he turned around to C4A and waited for Gschwendtner. Gschwendtner and Lil Bahadur reached summit at 10 am on 12 May. They stayed on summit for about 30-40 minutes and descended to C4A at 3:45 pm, next day descended to BC with Volken, The weather on summit day until 8 am it was snowing then it became clear. The summit also was clear and they had clear view of Everest and Lhotse. While descending it was foggy, cloudy, snowing 30/40 cm. On the summit they were followed by one Argentinean, one Ecuadorian, some Lithuanians and Russians.

  On 12 May, Alpier and Dorje Sherpa left C4C (7800m) midnight of 12 May and reached summit at 11:30 am on 13 May. They stayed on summit for 30 minutes and descended to C4 at 5 pm. Alpier slept at C4 and Dorje went down to C3. Alpier next day descended to C2 and following day to BC. Imstepf and Zeiter spent night at C4B (7700m) on 12 May and descended to ABC next day. They had very bad cough and not feeling well.

  Prem Lhakpa was with them.

  The team left BC on 17 for Changi Kharka from there. Gschwendtner, Imstepf, Volken, Zeiter arrived Kathmandu by helicopter. Alpiger, Keller and Juenemann left Changi Kharka by helicopter to Tumlingtar and by plane to Kathmandu on 18 May. The team will be leaving on 22 May.


expid: MAKA08126
peakid: MAKA
year: 2008
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Roberto Rodrigo
sponsor: Decoexsa Makalu 2008 Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Chhukung->Island Peak->Amphu Lapcha->W Col->Hillary BC
bcdate: 2008-05-02
smtdate: 2008-05-19
termdate: 2008-05-24
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (all members on 19 April)
campsites: BC(02/05,5700m),C1(04/05,6100m),C2(08/05,6800m),C3(17/05,7400m),C4(18/05,7700m),xxx(19/05,8300m)
agency: Bochi Bochi Treks
routememo:
  Decoexsa Makalu 2008 Expedition - Roberto Rodrigo

  On 18 May, Ms Garcia, Ortubay, Rodrigo and Zaita left C4 at midnight towards the summit. The weather was good, no wind, but cold. At about 8:30 am of 19 May Garcia and Rodrigo reached at 8300m. Ortubay and Zaita reached at 8200m at about the same time. Suddenly a very strong wind picked up. They waited for about 30 minutes for wind to subside but it did not stop. Then the members decided to descend. All four climbers reached C4 at 3 pm slept there. Next day to C2 and following day they reached BC. At BC Rodrigo realized that some of his toes and fingers were frostbitten.

  Ms. Garcia and Rodrigo left BC for Kathmandu on 24 May by helicopter and trying to leave as soon as possible. Ortubay and Zaita returned Kathmandu on 29 May and will leave on 6 June.

  Fixed rope: contributed 150m.


expid: MAKA08101
peakid: MAKA
year: 2008
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Manuel Gonzalez
sponsor: Andalucia Makalu 2008
approach: Chhukung->Amphu Lapcha->West Col->Mera La->Lukla
bcdate: 2008-05-02
smtdate: 2008-05-19
termdate: 2008-05-24
campsites: BC(02/05,5760m),C1(04/05,6400m),C2(05/05,6700m),C3(07/05,7400m),C4(18/05,7700m),xxx(19/05,8300m)
accidents: Three toes of right foot of Gonzalez frostbitten
agency: Bochi Bochi Treks
routememo:
  Andalucia Makalu 2008 Expedition - Manuel "Lolo" Gonzalez

  On 18 May, Vazquez left C4 at 11 pm, Fernandez and Gonzalez at midnight towards the summit. The night was clear but very cold and no wind. At about 8:30 am of 19 May Vazquez reached at 8300m and Fernandez and Gonzalez reached at 8200m about the same time. Suddenly a very strong wind picked up. They waited for about 30 minutes for wind to subside but it did not stop. Then the members decided to descend. Vazquez slept at C4 next day to C2 and reached BC on 21. Fernandez and Gonzalez slept at C3, next day to C2 and on 22 May to BC. Upon arriving at BC, Gonzalez realized that three toes of his right foot were seriously frostbitten. Gonzalez left BC for Kathmandu on 24 May by helicopter and trying to leave as soon as possible. Vazquez and Fernandez also left BC on 24 May and returned to Kathmandu on 29 May and will leave on 6 June.

  Earlier, during approach march to BC, a porter named Drabey Bahadur Rajan Magar, 44 years old of Waku-8 died in Baruntse icefall-West Col on 24 April. A falling stone hit the porter's back and he fell down about 100m below. The body was recovered and waited for helicopter for two days to send the body to Lukla but it did not come. Then decided to carry the body to Lukla and walk for two days over the Hinku glacier. The body was buried by Sherpas at a place at about 5200m altitude near by glacier on 28 April. The death of porter was informed to police office in Lukla. The team went to Yangri Kharka from Lukla by helicopter then to BC.

  Fixed rope: contributed 150m.


expid: MANA08101
peakid: MANA
year: 2008
route1: NE Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Thomas Merkel
sponsor: Amical Alpin Manaslu Expedition 2008
approach: Helicopter KTM to Samagaon
bcdate: 2008-04-11
smtdate: 2008-04-24
termdate: 2008-05-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m by members & 6400m by Sherpas due to difficult and dangerous snow conditions
campsites: BC(11/04,4850m),C1(19/04,5680m),C2(24/04,6400m),xxx.Mbrs(25/04,6200m),xxx.Sherpas(24/04,6400m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C2 occupied by Sherpas only.

  Amical Manaslu Expedition, led by Thomas Merkel - 15 May 2008

  The expedition reached the mountain "much too early -- a minimum of ten days too early" said Merkel. For the first ten days they were at BC there was heavy snowfall every day making the snow on the mountain side two meters deep. They had to make four attempts to reach C1. There was serious avalanches danger: there was one big snow slab above C1: another slab fell early one morning; and pieces of ice frequently fell. None of these avalanches hit the expedition, but "it was really dangerous."

  The Manaslu area had its own kind of weather. Merkel was receiving detailed weather forecasts from Switzerland, but 80% of the time they were incorrect about snowfall. The area is very humid, there are thunderstorms, and Merkel has heard that the glaciers are actually increasing in size, not decreasing asa they are elsewhere, because, he believes, of the constant heavy snowfall.

  Manaslu is not a good mountain for inexperienced climbers who sign up for commercial expeditions. Amical does not normally take clients to it, but since Cho Oyu from Tibet was closed this spring because of the Olympic torch team on Everest and Tibetans demonstrating in various places, Manaslu was offered as a substitute. There was just one client on this expedition, Gritsch, who was a strong climber.

  Since the team was the first to arrive at BC, they were alone and lost much time trying to make and remake the route alone in deep snow. They wore snowshoes, but even with them on, their legs were thigh deep in the snow. After about two weeks, two big teams and some small ones arrived. Merkel called a meeting of other team leaders when they turned up, and they agreed that a total of seven of their Sherpas would work together to open the route, but that didn't work out because Sherpas from different expeditions couldn't work together, and when they started route-making, they left camp too late. During the 24 days the Amical's team was at or above BC, snow fell on 21 days, often from late morning to early afternoon, so when Sherpas started to work on the route, snow soon started to fall. At no time while the Amical team was on Manaslu did any other team move ahead of them, so all the work to make the route was left them.

  When Sherpas finally did pitch C2, they decided to put it at 6400m, but this was not a safe place for the camp: there was a snow slab close to it. The safe site for the camp would have been a col at 6600-6700m.

  The team tried unsuccessfully three times to reach and occupy C1. The first attempt was on 14 April; the second was on the next day, when they did arrive at the camp's site at 5680m and left supplies there but could not sleep there; and the third one was on the 18th, when avalanching prevented their return to the site. finally on the 19th they succeeded in occupying C1. At this time other teams arrived at BC and moved up to C1 one or two days later with no problems -- much to the Amical teams's bemusement.

  On 20 April, Merkel, Gritsch and their two Sherpas tried to go on up to C2 but got no higher than 6000m. The next day they tried again but reached only 6150m and retreated to BC. On the 24th the team returned to C1. Next day their Sherpas started up from C1 much too late in the morning, snow soon started falling, and the team's five remaining climbers again went to BC while two Sherpas went up and pitched C3 at 6400m, much too low, in Merkel's opinion, and spent the night in C2. On the 25th, the five members, Baudrexl, Gritsch, Lang, Lange and Merkel went directly from BC to their high point of 6200m, but turned back from there and went to BC the same day. The Sherpas went down to BC on the 26th.

  The same five members intended to go to 6200m on 28 April. But they had been heavy snowfall all the preceding night, so they remained in BC instead. Two days later, the same members and their Sherpas got to 6200m. Again it was snowing, foggy and windy. The members did not want to continued the climb; it was decided then, on hte 30th, to abandon it.

  The expedition left BC on 3 May with extra time before they had to be back in Kathmandu. They got a permit to climb Larkya Peak, the 6010m "trekking peak" not far from Samagaon, but the bad weather continued, and they did not attempt it.

  This team fixed 450-500m of rope on Manaslu below and above C1.

  The only health problem amongst the team was the high altitude sickness that Baudrexl developed. On 13 April, he left BC to descend to Samagaon to recover. He returned to BC on the 15th and was perfectly fit after that.

  Members who left team early:

  Rinnerberger left on 19 April; he was not fit enough and somewhat overweight, making him sink deep into the snow covering the mountain.

  Pfeiffer left 25 April; he was too slow and also overweight.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Sangmu Bhote, 6/9/77 (21/5/2034), Hatiya-3, Sankhuwasabha
    Pemba Dorje, 1/8/70 (17/4/2027), Kharikhola, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1


expid: MANA08102
peakid: MANA
year: 2008
route1: NE Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Thomas Laemmle
sponsor: Germany Manaslu Ski Expedition
ascent1: 101
bcdate: 2008-04-18
smtdate: 2008-05-14
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2008-05-17
campsites: BC(18/04,4700m),C1(21/04,5600m),C2(05/05,6400m),C3(11/05,6900m),C4(12/05,7400m),Smt(14/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C2 at lower than normal, safer from avalanche
  C3 under huge icefall - sheltered by it
  C4 needed a C4 because C2 & C3 low.

  The team made their first summit attempt on 13 May. Dieber, Laemmle, Otto and Trinkner left C4 at 3:30 am but turned around two hours later at 7650m because of strong wind and went back to C4. The same day Dieber and Lenz went all the way to C2 because they were very tired.

  On the 14th Laemmle, Otto and Trinkner were still in C4, but Trinkner didn't feel well, so he stayed in the camp when Laemmle and Otto left for the top at 4:00 am, accompanied by the independent Kazakhstani climber Maxut Zhumayev. They had had to wait a couple of hours for the wind to abate. The two Germans were on the summit at 12:00 noon (more than two hours after Zhumayev) and returned to C4 at 4:30 pm. On the 15th all members were in C2 and in BC on the 16th. They left BC on 17 May.

  Laemmle had arrived late at BC because work in Germany. He came on 26 April in a helicopter sent to rescue a Japanese climber.

  The team's only health problem was a problem Trinkner developed in the retina of his right eye. His sight in that eye became fuzzy, but it is slowly improving.

  Fixed rope: last 200m to C4.


expid: MANA08103
peakid: MANA
year: 2008
route1: NE Face
nation: Kazakhstan
leaders: Maxut Zhumayev
sponsor: Kazakhstan Manaslu Expedition
ascent1: 100
bcdate: 2008-04-18
smtdate: 2008-05-14
smttime: 0943
termdate: 2008-05-17
campsites: BC(18/04,4700m),Biv1(20/4,5400m),Biv2(10/05,6400m),Biv3(11/05,6900m),Biv4(12/05,7400m),Smt(14/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Kazakhstan Manaslu Expedition - Maxut Zhumayev (the only member) - 20 May 2008

  Zhumayev had no fixed camps above base but had a series of bivouacs. After going to 5400m on 20 April, he descended to BC for the puja conducted by Nepalese with the German expedition and others.

  On 24 April he started up on what he hoped would be his push to the summit and returned to 5400m. Next day he moved up to go to his second high bivouac, but at 5700m while cutting bamboo with a pocket knife, he was distracted by a helicopter bringing the Germans's leader Thomas Laemmle to BC and he cut himself in the leg, so he went down to BC instead and rested there.

  On the 4th, he moved up to 6400m and on the 6th up to 6900m. On the 7th, he was trying to climb the icefall when bad weather forced him to stop at 7300m. On the 8th, Bulgarians stopped fixing rope in the icefall, and fearing that they did not know how to do it properly, Zhumayev returned to 6400m and on the 9th went back to BC to get more food and gas.

  On the 10th, he and German climbers went up to 6400m and on the 11th again up to 6900m. By now Sherpas with a Japanese team had fixed the icefall, so on the 12th he moved up to 7400m.

  In the night of the 12th/13th May, all teams except the Japanese who were at 7400m started up for a summit attempt, but the wind was extremely strong, and all of them retreated from 7600m to 7400m.

  Finally at 3:30 am on the 14th of May, when the wind was not so strong, Zhumayev and two Germans, Thomas Laemmle and Carsten Otto, left 7400m, and he reached the summit at 9:43 am. (the time shown by his dated photo). He waited at the top for two hours for the Germans to join him, then started his descent; he met them in their ascent about 100m below the summit but did not join them in their last climb to the top, as they asked him to do (he didn't want to retrace his steps) and was back at 7400m that night. On the 15th he was in BC.

  At the top, there were several small pyramid-like formations. He did not climb one of them because the rock was dangerous; it was perhaps two meters higher than the highest one he climbed, or perhaps it was actually lower than the others he did climb.

  This was his first climb in Nepal without a climbing partner, and he climbed frequently with the Germans and sometimes with Australians. Laemmle gave him a lot of encouragement to keep going.


  Letter to Eberhard Jurgalski from Maxut Zhumayev - 5 Nov 2008

  Thanks for your letter.

  I with you completely agree that the top of Manaslu demands special attention, in particular highest point achievement. In the spring of 2008 I the first in a season have risen on peak of Manaslu. Having reached the first rocky tops, I have continued movement on a crest towards distant rocky top. 

  Spring of 2008 at top was not enough snow that has increased danger at achievement of the highest point. 

  I apply 2 photos: one of under tops with a flag and the second a kind on top from rocky top about the main top. 

  The similar situation has occurred to my friend Vasilly Pivtsov. 

  I apply 4 photos made Vasilly at an ascension on top of Manaslu.


expid: MANA08104
peakid: MANA
year: 2008
route1: NE Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Javier Campos, Carlalberto Cimenti
sponsor: Manaslu
countries: Spain
bcdate: 2008-04-23
smtdate: 2008-05-13
termdate: 2008-05-17
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to strong winds
campsites: BC(23/04,4800m),C1(25/04,5733m),C2(28/04,6402m),C3(11/05,6900m),C4(12/05,7438m),xxx(13/05,7800m)
accidents: Campos back pain
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Manaslu: Campos & Cimenti - 23 May 2008 

  Javier Campos and Carlalberto Cimenti arrived in Kathmandu on different dates; Cimenti said he was climbing alone. But after Campos arrived, they left Kathmandu together on 12 April and climbed the mountain together most of the time.

  On 11 May they made C3 at 6900m together, but on the 12th Cimenti stayed in C3 while Campos went up and established C4 at 7438m. At 9:15 pm on the 12th, Cimenti went up from C3 and reached C4 at 2:15 am of the 13th. Campos had already left C4 at 1:30 am; Cimenti caught up with him at about 4:00 am.

  At 4:30 that morning, when Campos reached 7700m, he decided he should turn back. He had pain in one of his kidneys, so he descended all the way to BC, stopping in each camp to drink liquids (two or three liters in C3) and began to have less pain when was below C3.

  Cimenti continued his ascent, climbing with Bulgarians and Dutch teams. But he, too abandoned his summit bid; he turned back on the summit plateau at about 7800m at 5:30 am because of very strong wind. He also descended to BC that day. 

  Cimenti wanted to make another summit attempt, but he did not think it was safe for him to climb alone, and there was no one to climb with him. So he abandoned his climb.

  Cimenti skied down to BC from C3 (6900m) twice, once taking off his skis at two rock sections of 50 and 20 meters each, but on 20 April he made a complete run down from C3.


expid: MANA08105
peakid: MANA
year: 2008
route1: NE Face
nation: Australia
leaders: Michael Parker
sponsor: Independent team on Manaslu
approach: Arughat->Samagaon
bcdate: 2008-04-23
smtdate: 2008-05-17
termdate: 2008-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 8125m (fore-summit) due to ridge to real top looked too dangerous
agency: Tseringma Treks
campsites:
  BC(23/04,4800m),C1(28/04,5600m),C2(02/05,6400m),C3(15/05,6900m),C4(16/05,7700m),ForeSmt(17/05,8125m)

routememo:
  High point at 10m above little col.

  Parker, Grayling, Pasang Sherpa and Phurba left C4 at 6 am. Conditions were good with minimal snow. Grayling reached to about 7800m but turned back with Pasang due to cold hands and feet. They descended to C2.  Parker and Phurba carried on to summit; however, they only reached the point about 10m above little col. The traverse to the higher point about 60m across seemed too dangerous. On way down they dismantled C4 and reached C2 at 4 pm. BC on 19 May.

  Grayling developed blood clot in his leg on way out in Samagaon. He rode a horse to Arunghat and took bus back to Kathmandu. He went to CIWEC, where he was diagnosed with a bloot clot in his leg and referred to a hospital. The clot was removed but when I talked to him on phone on 3 June he was still in hospital and still had trouble walking. He was released on 4 June.

  Parker took a helicopter from Samagaon on 23 May.

  Fixed rope: 100m between C3 and C4.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Nurbu, 1954/55 (2011), Thamo/Pare
    Phurba Chheten, 8/6/84 (26/2/2041), Khumjung, Ev 16/5/07 


expid: MANA08106
peakid: MANA
year: 2008
route1: NE Face
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Katja Staartjes
sponsor: Dutch Manaslu Expedition 2008
approach: Besisahar->Dharapani->Larkya La->Samdu->Samagaon
bcdate: 2008-04-17
smtdate: 2008-05-13
termdate: 2008-05-18
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to excessive cold
campsites: BC(17/04,4800m),C1(20/04,5700m),C2(30/04,6300m),C3(11/05,6700m),C4(12/05,7450m),xxx(13/05,7700m)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  Knepper, Staartjes, Van Veen, Wesselius, Lhakpa Nuru and Nuru Gyalzen left C4 at 2 am on 13 May. Knepper and Van Veen turned around from 7500m to C4 at 3 am due to excessive cold. Staartjes and Wesselius and two Sherpas reached 7700m at 4:15 am and had to turn around to C4 at 4:45 am.

  They were exhausted due to late arrival to C4 (5 pm). There was not enough rest time. Next day all members and Sherpas to BC. There were two Australians, five Germans, one Spanish, three Colombians, all of them turned around to C2. 

  The team returned Kathmandu on 24 May. Knepper will leave on 27 May and rest of members on 29 May.

  Fixed rope: 200m between C1 to C2.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Nuru, 1962, Khumjung
    Nuru Gyalzen Sherpa, 18/8/73 (02/05/2030), Khumjung-9, Phortse, Everest X3

  Staartjes married to Wesselius.
  Kneeper married to Van Veen.


expid: MANA08107
peakid: MANA
year: 2008
route1: NE Face
nation: Colombia
leaders: Luis Felipe Ossa
sponsor: Manaslu Colombia Expedition 2008
approach: Arughat->Machha Khola->Jagat->BC
bcdate: 2008-04-30
smtdate: 2008-05-14
termdate: 2008-05-17
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to very strong wind and supplies shortage
campsites: BC(30/04,4900m),C1(02/05,6400m),C2(05/05,6400m),C3(12/05,6800m),C4(13/05,7400m),xxx(14/05,7800m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Avila, Ossa and Torres left C4 at 1:30 am on good weather condition on 14 May. When the team reached at 7800m at 6 am started very strong wind. It was not possible for the climbers to continue their climb. The team turn around to C4 where they reached at 8 am. They cleared the camp and descended to C3 where they arrived at 11 am and spent the night. Next day to BC. The team made its summit bid on 14 May depending on the weather forecast from Netherlands which indicated that 14 May will be of good weather. On 15 May Maxut, 2 Germans, 1 Australian and on Sherpa summited Manaslu in good weather conditions. The Colombian team could not wait for next day attempt to summit because they did not have enough supplies in C4. The team returned to Kathmandu on 22 May and trying to leave Nepal as soon as possible. The team members have their out bound plane ticket for 9 June. 

  Leader Ossa hopefully looks forward to come for Kangchenjunga in 2009.

  Fixed rope: 7400m from C1 to C4 (completely fixed over a meandering route) 


expid: MANA08108
peakid: MANA
year: 2008
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiroyuki Kuraoka
sponsor: Bochi Bochi Trekking Manaslu Expedition 2008
approach: Pokhara->Samagaon by helicopter
bcdate: 2008-04-21
smtdate: 2008-05-20
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2008-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at fore-summit
accidents: Gurung's death
agency: Bochi Bochi Treks
campsites:
  BC(21/04,4860m),C1(25/04,5760m),C2(01/05,6200m),C3(13/05,6750m),C4(20/05,7450m),ForeSmt(21/05,8125m)

routememo:
  Ms Hiruma, Kuraoka, Takiguchi, Ms Tanaka, Yoshida, Temba Nurbu, Keshap Gurung, Santa Bahadur Gurung, Karma Gyalzen and Kusang Dorchi Sherpa left C4 at 2:45 am on 21 May. Reached summit at 9:30 am, stayed on summit 30 minutes, descended to C4 at 12:30 pm. Then to C3 between 3:30 pm-4:30 pm. Temba and Keshap to C2. Next day to BC. Weather on summit day was good, no wind, very hot. The team returned to Kathmandu on 29 May and will leave on 1 June. Next autumn will come for Cho Oyu or Dhaulagiri.

  Dead: Hasta Bahadur Gurung (50 years) (2015), Angla-4, Sitapati, Sankhuwasabha. On 13 May the team along with Hasta Bahadur reached C3. At 9 pm Hasta Bahadur told Keshap Gurung and Santa Bahadur Gurung who were sleeping in same tent that he is suffering from unbearable heart pain. Then he was given oxygen. Santa went to Kuraok's tent and told him about Hasta Bahadur. Kuraoka went to Hasta Bahadur's tent. Kuraoka started heart massage for about 10 minutes. But it did not do any good. Hasta Bahadur was already dead. The body was brought to BC on 14 then to Samagaon on 15 May. Man Bahadur Gurung, brother of Hasta Bahadur, came to Samagaon in helicopter and took the body to Kathmandu same day.

  Fixed rope: 1000m contributed

  Sherpa:
    Temba Norbu Sherpa, 27/4/80 (15/01/2037), Makalu-5, no 8000ers
    Keshap Gurung, 31/3/79 (18/12/2035), Laprak-4, Gorkha, summited Dorje Lhakpa
      in 2000 with French team of GHA
    Santa Bahadur Gurung, 23/4/59 (20/1/2016), 49, Swara-5, Gorkha, Manaslu X1,
      Cho Oyu X1
    Karma Gyalzen Sherpa, (19/05/2040) Makalu-9, Everest X2
    Kusang Dorje/Dorchi Sherpa, (18/07/1957), Makalu-9, Manaslu X2


  Eberhard Jurgalski - 11 Jan 2010

  The Japanese expedition stopped on the fore-summit, as noted in the Japanese Alpine News 2009.


expid: MANA08109
peakid: MANA
year: 2008
route1: NE Face
nation: Canada
leaders: Clayton Ross
sponsor: Canadian on Manaslu
approach: Arughat->Sokti->Philim->Lho->Namrang->Samagaon
bcdate: 2008-04-15
smtdate: 2008-05-12
termdate: 2008-05-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to headache and not enough time
campsites: BC(15/04,4800m),C1(20/04,5600m),C2(30/04,6400m),C3(12/05,6800m),xxx(12/05,6800m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  On May 12 Ross and Pema slept at C3. Ross had headache and decided to go down on 13th BC. Ross said there was not much time to well acclimatize. He also heard news about death of Sherpa [Gurung] on Manaslu. This discouraged him. Ross returned to Kathmandu on 23 May. Probably leaving on 25th May.

  Sherpa:
    Pema Sherpa, 28/8/73 (12/05/2030), Pathibhara-1, Ilam
      (not on Everest 2007 with Tashi Tenzing - different man, who told Tashi 
       21 May 2008 he did no climbing in spring 2007)


expid: MANA08110
peakid: MANA
year: 2008
route1: NE Face
nation: Bulgaria
leaders: Petar Unzniev
sponsor: Bulgarian on Manaslu
approach: Arughat->Lalobeshi->Philim->Lho->Namrang->Samagaon
bcdate: 2008-04-14
smtdate: 2008-05-13
termdate: 2008-05-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7960m due to Sherpa turning back due to high wind
agency: Monterosa Treks/Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(14/04,4800m),C1(17/04,5600m),C2(21/04,6300m),C3A(28/04,6800m),C3B(29/04,7200m),C4(12/05,7450m),xxx(13/05,7960m)

routememo:
  On 13 May Unzniev with Temba left C4 at 2 am, reached at 7960m at 7 am. Other climbers and Temba said they are going down due to high wind. For Unzniev the wind was not a problem but there was no choice for Unzniev then descended to C2 about 5 pm. Slept there. Next day to BC, Stay there for few hours then to Samagaon. Earlier on 10 May Unzniev was in C3B. He ran out of food and went down to BC for supply, went up to C3B again on 11 May. He said Temba his Sherpa was not helpful. Unzniev returned to Kathmandu on 16 May by helicopter and will leave on 19 May.

  Fixed rope: 300m contributed.

  Sherpa:
    Temba Sherpa, 24/11/1972, Makalu-5, Sedua, Everest 17/5/06


expid: PETH08101
peakid: PETH
year: 2008
route1: S Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Andrew Hughes
sponsor: British Services Makalu Expedition - High Altitude Development Team
approach: BC on east side of Barun Glacier on small ledge just above moraine
bcdate: 2008-05-12
smtdate: 2008-05-14
termdate: 2008-05-18
termnote: Abandoned at 61000m due to difficult cornices
othersmts: Climbed Pethangtse East (PTHE-081-01)
campsites: BC(12/04,5650m),C1(14/05,6100m),xxx
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  BC at slightly above moraine of glacier
  C1 at east end of ridge of point 6140m on Schneider map.

  British Services Makalu Expedition, High Altitude Development Team, led by Andrew Hughes - 6 June 2008

  This team was associated with the two British armed services team to Makalu's NW and SE Ridges, and was designed as a training exercise for less experienced climbers.

  The original plan was to attack Pethangtse in a fast climb with only one camp above BC. On 12 May they arrived at their BC (5650m), and two days later placed C1 at 6100m south of Pethangtse at the east end of the ridge of point 6140m (on the Schneider Khumbu map, 1999 edition). They then sent small parties to look for a feasible route on Pethangtse's South Ridge or somewhere in that area of the mountain. But they found that there were many seracs above C1, and they would need two or three higher camps.

  So they looked for a nearby alternative and switched their goal from Pethangtse to an unnamed peak [Pethangtse East], Pt 6540m on the Schneider map east-southeast of Pethangtse. From C1 they moved around some "monstrous" crevasses in a big glacial bowl and went to the summit via the South Ridge, which was 45-degree ice at its top but not very difficult.

  Half of the team left C1 at 3:00 am on 16 May and were on their 6540m high summit on 16 May at 12 o'clock noon. They were Barnard, Beighton, Fawcett, Greig-Smith, Hughes and Sherwood. They returned to BC at 6:00 pm.

  The other half followed the next day. They too left C1 at 3:00 am, were on the summit on 17 May at noon and back in BC at 6:00 pm. Their times were the same as those of the first group: although they did not have to pioneer the route, they were not so strong. They were Ayrton, Flynn, Ling, Slack, Smith and Wilson.

  From BC the expedition moved west across the East Col (north of Sherpani Col), across the West Col south of Baruntse, and crossed Amphu Labtsa to Island Peak, which all members summited on the 27 of May.


expid: PUMO08101
peakid: PUMO
year: 2008
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Herbert Wolf
sponsor: Amical Alpin Pumori Expedition 2008
countries: France, Germany, Switzerland
bcdate: 2008-04-21
smtdate: 2008-04-25
termdate: 2008-05-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to less snow, big stones falling
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (all members and Sherpas on 5 May)
campsites: BC(21/04,5320m),C1(24/04,6080m),xxx(25/04,6300m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Wolf and Chuldim went up to 6300m on 25 April to see the condition of climbing route. They found that further up beyond 6300m is was not possible to climb as there was not enough snow and big stones were falling. Wolf went down to BC and had discussion about the route condition with members. On 28 April Bettinelli, Weber and Zepf went to 6300m with Wolf. The team members saw the route condition and decided to abandon climbing and descended to BC. The team returned Kathmandu on 14 May. Bettinelli will leave on 15, Weber and Zepf on 16 and Wolf on 17 May.

  Sherpa:
    Chuldim Sherpa, 23/7/64 (8/4/2021), Khumjung


expid: PUTH08101
peakid: PUTH
year: 2008
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
sponsor: Putha Hiunchuli French Expedition
ascent1: 29th
approach: Juphal by air->Tarakot->Barbung Khola->Kakkot->Panzin
bcdate: 2008-04-29
smtdate: 2008-05-07
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2008-05-10
othersmts: Summited Pota Himal North (Peak Hawley) on 9 May by Damilano (POTA-081-01)
campsites: BC(29/04,4900m),C1(01/05,5480m),C2(03/05,5750m),C3(05/05,6085m),C4(06/05,6350m),Smt(07/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal BC site
  C1 at moraine at bottom of the mountain
  C2 at glacier
  C3 at shoulder of glacier
  C4 on NE Face.

  All members moved together and after leaving BC to climb, never went down again before summiting. All members and both Sherpas left C4 at 5:30-6:00 am, on top at 3:00 pm, back to C4 at 6:00-7:00. May 8 to BC.

  10 May Damilano alone from BC towards C1.

  Sherpas: 
    Tashi Temba Lama,18 May 1966 (5/2/2023), Denchhenbu Village, Makalu-9, no 8000ers
    Chhotemba Sherpa, 4/9/84 (19/5/2041), Nurbugaon, Makalu-9


expid: PUTH08102
peakid: PUTH
year: 2008
route1: N Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Georg Schreyer
sponsor: Bavarian Putha Hiunchuli Expedition
ascent1: 31st
approach: Juphal->Dunai->Tarakot->Barbung Khola->Kakkot->3 days to BC
bcdate: 2008-05-09
smtdate: 2008-05-17
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2008-05-19
campsites: BC(09/05,5150m),C1(15/05,5775m),C2(16/05,6125m),Smt(17/05)
achievment: May be 1st German woman?
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Blaschek, Diederichs, Diel, Gruber, Leitner, Schreyer, Zauner, Mingma Nuru, Ang Dawa and Pema left C2 at 4 am. Diederichs, Diel, Leitner, Schreyer, Mingma Nuru, Ang Dawa, Pema Sherpa reached summit at 1 pm, stayed on summit 30 minutes, descended to C2 at 4:30 pm. Next day to BC. Blaschek, Gruber and Zauner turned around from 6500m due headache and stomach problems. The team returned Kathmandu on 28 May and will leave on 2 June. 

  Schreyer may come for Dhaulagiri in 2010.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Dawa, Makalu-5, 7/2/68 (25/10/2024)
    Mingma Nuru Sherpa, Lukla, 1961-62 (2018)
    Pema Sherpa, Makalu-5, 28/2/80 (16/11/2036)


expid: PUTH08103
peakid: PUTH
year: 2008
route1: NE Face
nation: USA
leaders: Peter Dronkers
sponsor: Churen Himal
ascent1: 30th
approach: See route details
bcdate: 2008-04-26
smtdate: 2008-05-07
smttime: 1645
termdate: 2008-05-11
othersmts: Climbed Turka Himal (30 April by Dronkers and Eisele)
campsites: BC(26/04,4725m),C1(03/05,5180m),C2(04/05,5550m),C3(05/05,6100m),C4(06/05,6400m),Smt(07/05)
agency: Iceland Trekking (Tendi)
routememo:
  Approach march: Darban->Dhorpatan->Tarakot->up Barbung Khola to Kakkot->Kaya Khola to BC.

  BC at 4-5 hours walk east of normal site for NE Ridge.

  Permit was for Churen Himal but when they saw the mountain, they got scared by the 5000 ft vertical icefall. They decided to attempt the nearby Putha Hiunchuli peak. Curtis Gray was not enjoying the trip and left expedition before any climbing was done.

  Approach via Darban (northwest of Beni) Dhorpatan, Tarakot, Barbung Khola to Kakkot, Kaya Khola to BC.

  Summit details

  On summit day the summit team left C3 at 7 am. Weather was good, it was windy with wind driven snow. Snow conditions were good. The team were one day ahead of the French team, who was also on the mountain. They reached the summit at 4:45 pm. They descended to C3 where they arrived at 7:30 pm and where they spent the night. On May 8 they returned to BC of the French team and on may 9 they returned to their lower base camp at 15,500 ft (4724m). They left BC on 11th May and flew out of Juphal on 14th May.

  The team was initially planning on climbing Churen Himal; however, Curtis Gray abandoned the expedition before the team got to base camp. His high point was 14,000 feet. His own explanation was that he was feeling sick and a bit unprepared and generally not enjoying the trip, so he left. However, when Gray decided to leave the expedition and the porters and sirdar said they wouldn't carry loads past 14,000 feet (4267m) Churen Himal became out of the question for the team. In addition, the team got scared by the mountain. Quote: "When we saw the mountain and the face, it looked pretty dangerous. May be it would have been possible with a larger team but not us!" They decided to switch to Putha Hiunchuli on 23rd April.


  Trip report by Peter Dronkers:
   
  Our acclimatization was done on a peak called Turka Himal 19,000 ft (5791m) and lies a few miles northwest of our base camp location. It is the prominent peak visible to the south from the Barbung Khola, from a point one mile west of Kakkot -- and it looks very similar to Putha Himal. Our BC location was not the one used by past parties -- it was a 4-5 hour walk east of the standard BC for the NE Ridge, but we could not carry our whole kit ourselves, so we started our alpine style ascent further back and substantially lower. Our climb was done in pure alpine style, with no carries and nothing fixed. We had no information about the area we were in and our maps were useless, so it was much more difficult to find the mountain. Our climb on Turka Himal followed talus to the prominent glacier on the & nbs p: East or NE Rridge. It may have been a first ascent or new route. We flew out from the Juphal Airstrip on May 14th.

  Expedition Details:

  Email from Dronkers - June 3, 2008
   
  We chose to take the long way in, with donkeys. We thought it might be a nice two week stroll along the lowlands until crossing some small passes that would deposit us in our river valley. This turned out to involve something to the tune of 170 miles and at least 35,000 (10668m) vertical feet. The donkeys didn't do well, one nearly died from the cold, so we had to swap them out halfway for a new string that was acclimatized. The passes were high and cold -- one was nearly 15,000 feet (4572m) high -- and they were covered in snow. It was becoming a large ordeal just to get to basecamp, and that was where the real work was to begin. That was also where I became seriously ill and started antibiotics. With no end to the trekking, I had no choice but to vomit my way up the trails and collapse at the end of each day in depression.

  On day 13 we descended from our last pass into the river valley, essentially having crossed the Himalayas and circled around the Dhaulagiri Range, to its north side. Reaching the town of Kakkotgaon, we discovered major communication problems with locals, and because we couldn't see the mountain from the village, we really had no idea where to go. Because there was so much snow still, our porters declared they could go no higher than a saddle at 14,500 feet (4420m), about 3500 feet above the village, from which we could still not see the mountains. Blue, Curtis, and I carried two ridiculous loads each to this pass while the porters carried as well. We shook their hands and told them we'd see them wherever. Great -- no real base camp, no more support, and a huge mountain to climb. Curtis, also sick himself by then, declared he had enough. Nothing Blue or I could say would change his mind. He was homesick, missed his girl friend, and was no longer enthused about anything. Now it was just Blue and me.

  Churen Himal 24,184 ft (7371m) - the mountain for which our permit was granted, was seeming extremely serious for the two of us with no satellite phone (it would come later), no basecamp support, and no one else in sight. We spent 3 days moving supplies to our own base camp location from which we could see the West Ridge and NW Face of Churen. Virtually out of the question, with 70-degree blue ice for almost 5000 ft (1524m), rock fall and seracs almost everywhere. It was here that the 1990 Japanese West Ridge expedition lost two members. We decided we'd be lucky enough to climb the neighboring peak -- Putha Himal, via technically easy route that would put us on its 23,750-foot (7239m) summit. But before the trip, with only one crap photo of the area, we just never knew until we saw Churen with our own eyes. Someday, someone will climb this face -- just not me.

  At least we thought the peak towering above this camp was Putha, but something just didn't seem right. Although it looked just like the photos, something didn't seem right, although it was an aesthetic match. We packed for a 4-day push thinking we'd climb it quickly and gain a better view of Churen and the surroundings, because our maps were useless with 500-foot contour intervals. Two days later we crested a ridge at 19,000 feet (5791m) and realized that Putha was a long ways away. We were merely standing on a vantage point -- a mole hill from which Putha was clearly visible in the horizon. We were devastated. But on the other hand, that may well have been a first ascent in itself (we summited) and it also served as a great acclimatization climb.

  We returned to camp demoralized and decided to take 2 rest days to rethink the options. This time, we would pack for an 8-day alpine style ascent on the real Putha and it would be our final go. Just after we left, we bumped into an agent who we thought was securing the approach andbase camp for a French expedition bound for Putha. On a mountain that hadn't seen a documented ascent in years, we were taken by absolute surprise and disbelief that someone else was climbing here. We learned later that they had taken the short way in -- a straightforward 3 days approach to Kakkotgaon. By then then snow had melted enough that their 35 porters could get the kit to base camp.

  We couldn't communicate well with this agent, so we still didn't know if they had passed through while we were climbing the smaller mountain or if tey were yet to show up. When we came across their unoccupied base camp tent and a saw a mountain of equipment and food, we realized that this was a major production for them. Blue and I passed their base camp self-contained with just the packs on our backs and still no idea how to get to the mountain through the moraines, ridges and valleys. On day two we saw the peak and saw that the French team had already began moving supplies up the mountain in a seige-style method of climbing where they employed high altitude porters. We quickly caught up with them on day 3. By then, they had already been on the mountain for a week and spent who knows how much time hauling loads up and returning to lower camps.

  On day 4 Blue and I had completely passed all of them and placed a high camp at about 21,000 feet (6400m), intent on submitting the next day. Summit day was the hardest thing I've ever done in my life. For 10 hours and sapped from the altitude, Blue and I took turns kicking steps in deep snow, breaking trail. Blue thought we would have to turn back, but I knew I would not have the motivation to try again from high camp, especially because our trail was quickly being blown back in by the wind. We also had to gamble on the weather, as clouds were blowing in and out and we had no wands to mark the way back down. At just before 5 pm, we stood on top, just under 24,000 ft and immediately had to turn around after shooting a few minutes of video. This is likely the second alpine-style ascent of the mountain.

  After a grueling descent to the airstrip -- a 4 day walk from our base camp from which the French team originated -- we were totally exhausted and ready to relax in Thailand. By that point, it had been over 40 days, and probably about 50,000 vertical feet and 250 miles. Now, I sit in Kathmandu, having spent all of last night vomiting from some bad food or water somewhere and hoping its the last damn time I get sick here.


  Billi Bieling's summary of email from Dronkers 2nd July 2008

  Turka Himal is the prominent peak visible to the south from the Barbung Khola, from a point one mile west of Kakkot -- and it looks very similar to Putha Himal. The peak towers above the Kaya Khola about 1 mile west of Kakkot. Dronkers could not determine if the glaciated ridge was east or northeast because as their maps were too large scale to even see the peak on it, and because they didn't watch the compass during the ascent. It's probably more like the East Ridge, though. We followed an eastern, steep talus moraine until snow line at around 18,000 ft and they camped. The summit was only 2 hours away from camp. It was non-techncial other than the last two hours being on a glacier. Dronkers is not too sure about the dates, but he thinks that they left high camp on April 29 and summited the next day. There was really only one place to put high camp on the route, and that's where you can see the tent in the picture. From their base camp, it took all day to reach that point. The summit was only 2 hours away from there and they descended to base camp from there. With light packs, it is possible to summit from base camp in one very long day. Other routes up the mountain did not look very enjoyable (or safe), so Dronkers thinks the way they did it was the most ideal -- from the east. The glacier -- although its simple and short does have crevasses.


expid: SHEY08201
peakid: SHEY
year: 2008
route1: E Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Diego Sainz
sponsor: Sanga Shey Shikhar Expedition
approach: Juphal->Hanke->Phuksundo
termnote: Abandoned due to high river, landslides and other similar problems
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Parshuram)
routememo:
  Could not reach BC because of high river, landslides and other similar problems; went to Shrey Gompa only.


expid: THUL08101
peakid: THUL
year: 2008
route1: NW Face-NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Tamotsu Ohnishi
sponsor: Thulagi Peak Expedition of Osaka Alpine Club 2008
approach: Besisahar->Dharapani on Dudh Khola
bcdate: 2008-03-24
smtdate: 2008-05-01
termdate: 2008-05-06
termnote: Abandoned at 6250m due to difficult rock and bad weather
accidents: Nishikawa frostbite
agency: Cosmo Treks
campsites:
  BC(24/03,3280m),ABC(29/03,4009m),C1(09/03,4779m),RelayCamp(19/04,5379m),C2(22/04,5850m),xxx(01-02/05,6350m)

routememo:
  BC at junction of Dudh Khola and Kasongtu Khola
  High point on NW Face [of plateau] by Taniguchi, Okada & Nakajima.

  Thulagi Peak Expedition of Osaka Alpine Club 2008 Spring, led by Tamotsu Ohnishi

  Between C1 and C2 the expedition placed a camp they called Relay Camp because of the long distance between the two camps on a difficult rock ridge and ice face.

  They abandoned their climb on 3 May because the terrain was difficult, and when they tried on 3 May to climb higher than 6250m, they were forced to give up the idea because 20 avalanches were falling frequently from the plateau at 6400m where they had planned to pitch C3.

  Their only health problem was the altitude sickness which 76-year-old Nishikawa got at about 4000m when he was trying to reach ABC in late April. He was all right when he had returned to BC.

  Sherpas: 
    Chhepa Sherpa, 29/10/83, Sotang-6, Solu, no 8000ers
    Pasang Kaji Sherpa, 24/2/81, Sotang, Solu, Cho Oyu 4/10/07
    Tul Bahadur Tamang, 30/8/66, Deusa, Solu, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2, Dhaulagiri X1, 
      Manaslu X1


expid: TKPO08101
peakid: TKPO
year: 2008
route1: N Face-W Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Ueli Steck
sponsor: Annapurna I Expedition
ascent1: 2nd
approach: Lukla->Namche->Thami->Thami Khola->Thengpo
bcdate: 2008-03-31
smtdate: 2008-04-24
termdate: 2008-03-31
othersmts: Climbed Parchamo (6 April) and attempted Annapurna I (ANN1-081-04)
campsites: BC(31/03,4200m),Smt(24/04)
agency: Royal Orchid Treks
primid: ANN108104
routememo:
  BC at lodge in Thengpo village
  Series of bivouacs.

  Before attempting Annapurna I, the two Swiss climbers, Ueli Steck and Simon Anthamatten, went to Khumbu and climbed two smaller mountains as warm ups. They flew to Lukla on 29 March, trekked via Namche Bazar, Thami, and Thami Khola to Thengpo village, where they had their BC in a lodge. On 2 April they trekked westwards to Tashi Laptsa pass at 5800m and back to BC the same day. They returned to Tashi Laptsa on the 5 and slept there. On 6 April they climbed Parchermo via its North Ridge to its 6187m summit and returned to BC.

  Now they turned to Tengkangpoche, which had been successfully climbed only once before, in an unauthorized ascent by a British-American team in the autumn of 1984 via its East Ridge from the south. They approached from the north, where nine teams had failed from 2002 to 2006 on various northern lines. The Swiss tackled its North Face and made their first attempt on 10 April, when they went from BC to 5500m and bivouacked there. On the 11th they got to 6000m, and then falling snow and wind drove them back to BC.

  Now they took a rest to wait for better weather. They went to Namche for yak steaks on the 14th and returned to BC on the 15th. A week later they made their summit push of Tengkangpoche in just four days: from BC on 21 April they went up to 5100m on the North Face and bivouacked there. The next day they were at 5600m; on the 23rd they surmounted the 85 degree last section of their line on the North Face to reach the summit ridge, the West Ridge, at 6350m and made their last bivouac there. They went to the top on 24th April and were back in BC the same day.


expid: YAKA08201
peakid: YAKA
year: 2008
nation: Japan
leaders: Makoto Hamamura
sponsor: Sagarmatha Club Japan Yakawa Kang Expedition
approach: Bus to Pokhara->fly to Jomsom->Muktinath->Kharka I->Kharka II
bcdate: 2008-08-12
smtdate: 2008-08-12
termdate: 2008-08-15
othersmts: Attempted Tawa Peak (6110m) in Purkung Himal via SW Ridge
campsites: BC(12/08,5500m)
accidents: Isihara blood supply to brain got problem while flying to Kathmandu by helicopter on 22 Aug
agency: Sherpa Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC at near the lake
  C1 on the West Ridge.

  The team got permit for Yakawa Kang, but its intention was to climb Tawa (6110m).

  Iga, Matsushima, Murakami, Nakai, Sato, Uchida, Kami Sherpa, Lhakpa Sherpa, Kaji Sherpa and Gyalzen Sherpa left C1 at 5:45 am, reached at 5970m at 9:23 am. It was not possible for the team to continue farther up because of waist-deep snow. They descended to C1 at 11:20 am and BC at 1:13 pm. Hamamura, Kawasaki and Tominaga remained at BC. They had headache. 

  Akihata, Koga, Okano, Saito, Satoo and Tanaka returned to Muktinath from about 5000m. They did not reach BC; they had headaches. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu at 5 am on 23 Aug and will leave same day for Japan.

  Tawa Peak is north-northwest of Yakawa Kang.


expid: ANNE08101
peakid: ANNE
year: 2008
route1: S Face-E Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Sergei Bogomolov
sponsor: Annapurna South Face Expedition 2008
ascent1: 7th
approach: Pokhara->Phedi
bcdate: 2008-04-09
smtdate: 2008-05-07
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2008-04-28
othersmts: Climbed Annapurna I (ANN1-081-06)
campsites: BC(09/04,4130m),C1(14/04,5000m),C2(16/04,5800m),C3(26/04,6800m),C4(06/05,7500m),Smt(07/05)
accidents: Minor frostbite in finger tips (right hand) of Bogomolov
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
primid: ANN108106
routememo:
  BC arrival - Bogomolov, Lutokhin and Sinev by helicopter.

  Russian Annapurna South Face Expedition 2008 Spring - Sergei Bogomolov

  Bogomolov and Bolotov left C4 (7700m) at 4 am on 7 May in bad weather conditions. Bogomolov felt that his fingers started getting cold and turned around to C4 from 7700m. Bolotov continued and reached East Summit at 11 am, stayed there for about 10 minutes and descended to C4 at 3 pm.


expid: NORB08201
peakid: NORB
year: 2008
route1: NE Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Goetz Wiegand
bcdate: 2008-07-04
smtdate: 2008-07-06
termdate: 2008-07-07
othersmts: Climbed unnamed peak near Norbu Kang
campsites: BC.Biv(04/07,4500m),C1.Biv(05/07,5200m),Unnamed.Smt(06/07,6005m)
agency: Multi Adventure
routememo:
  BC (biv) north-northeast of Norbu Kang
  C1 (biv) in a valley northeast of mountain.

  German Dolpo Expedition 2008 to Norbu Kang led by Goetz Wiegand - 22 July 2008

  The expedition's main reason for coming to Dolpo was a filming project at several gompas by a separate film team. But it also gave Wiegand an opportunity to see Dolpo, whee he had never been before.

  Two members of the climbing team actually did no climbing: Bossdorf and Grambow. Instead of going to Norbu Kang with Wiegand, Langer and Voigtlaender, they stayed at Dho Tarap village, where the film team made their headquarters to film the important Champa Gompa.

  Kern also did not climb. He got a high fever of unknown cause which was not cured by antibiotics, so he left expedition on 4 July. His was the only illness among the climbing team, who had no accidents or frostbite.

  The climbing and filming teams flew from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj on 23 June and to Juphal airfield for Dunai on the 24th. Their first goal was Dho Tarap village, where they made their base for filming Champa Gompa and climbing Norbu Kang. From Dunai they trekked southeast to Heutaghar, Paria Gompa, spent two days at Paria Gompa for filming it, then to Tarap Khola and north to Dho Tarap, from where the film team did their work while the three climbers went to Norbu Kang; they arrived at Dho Tarap on 2 July.

  On the 4th of July, the climbing trio trekked south-southwest to the Mirguwane Khola for access to Norbu Kang via its valley. But when they moved up the valley, local people told them that the valley was impassable farther up because of its narrowness and landslides. So they retraced their steps to the Tarap Khola and moved northwest beside this stream to Tok-Khyu village. Then south-southwest across a few gentle ridges to an place where they pitched their single tent for their climb of Norbu Kang.

  On the next day, the 5th, they took their tent with them as they trekked into a valley and pitched the tent on a spot that was still 1.5 km from the NE Face of the mountain they thought was Norbu Kang. On the 6th, the three men left their "high camp" at 7:00 am and climbed this NE Face to 5600m, then moved left to the east ridge because they saw rocks falling from the face. They had no helmets and felt it was safer to get away from rock falls.

  When they reached the top via the ridge at 2:00 pm, they say a mountain four or five km. away towards the south. This mountain's summit was covered in cloud, but it gave the appearance of being 100-150 meters higher than where they were standing. Wiegand thinks that other peak belonged to Norbu Kang. But they had no time to go to find out; their schedule was ruled by the film's team's program. In any case they probably did not have sufficient climbing gear with them, and Langer and Voigtlaender were not skilled enough to attempt it.

  They descended from their unnamed summit to their high camp site at 5200m via the East Ridge to a small valley near the area of their camp, which they reached at 5:30 pm. They slept there that night, and on the 7th they were back at 4500m, where they had had their first camp. They returned to Champa Gompa near Dho Tarap.

  On 9 July the five climbing members plus the film team set out in search of Shey Gompa and Shey Shikhar, the climber's other intended mountain goal. They trekked northwest along the Jangla Khola to the Jangla La (Pass) and on the 10th went north-northwest to Nagung Khola and Saldang vilage. On the 11th they turned southwest to the Namgu Gompa on the Namgu Khola. On the 12th they crossed the Gelu La to Shey Gompa. Next day they crossed the Kang La to Phoksundo Khola, which drains north from Phoksundo (or Ringmo) Lake. On the 14th, the climbers trekked for an hour or two westward to look for Shey Shikar somewhere nearby. They could see nothing in the monsoon clouds. Anyway they had no time to attempt a real climb.  They returned to Phoksundo Khola without having been able to make a reconnaissance of the mountain.

  On the 15th they went south to Ringmo village: now they were on their way back to Kathmandu. They arrived in Dunai on the 18th, on the 19th in Juphal, and on the 20th flew from Juphal to Nepalgunj and on to Kathmandu the same day.


expid: DHA108118
peakid: DHA1
year: 2008
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Josette Valloton
sponsor: Thamserku Trekking's independent on Dhaulagiri I
bcdate: 2008-04-15
smtdate: 2008-05-11
termdate: 2008-05-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7945m due to sickness of Sherpa
campsites: BC(15/04),C1(17/04,6100m),C2(18/04,6800m),C3(10/05,7945m),xxx(11/05,7945m)
agency: World Records Expeditions (Thamserku pmt)
routememo:
  On 11 May Valloton and Nima Tshering left C3 for summit; when they reached at 7945m Nima started vomiting. Then Valloton decided to turn around and descended to C3. Valloton returned to Kathmandu on 18 May and left on 23 May.


  Email from Josette Valloton - Aug 23, 2008

  Nima Tshering Sherpa, 22/4/72, Phortse, Everest X2

  This Sherpa summited two times Everest and was a kind of friend. But this time without supplementary oxygen he could only manage it well until 7000m and during the sleep in C2 (6800m) I could already observed that he was not supporting so well altitude. Maybe it was the first time for him that he was not stronger than other.

  During the way to camp 3 we had to deal with an amount of fresh snow (2 Polish and me); Sherpas were behind. We slept a little bit below the normal camp 3. The day after we made it to camp 3.

  Nima and me started around 5 am for the summit and climbed until around 10. The Sherpa had vomited all the night but started in the morning for finally finish to deliver all that could still stay in his stomach. He wanted to wait for me in the snow at that point. We were close to the summit. I decided to go down together.


expid: LCHA07301
peakid: LCHA
year: 2007
route1: E Ridge (up); N Ridge (down)
nation: Japan
leaders: Toyoji Wada
ascent1: 1st
bcdate: 2007-08-06
smtdate: 2007-09-14
smttime: 1240
termdate: 2007-09-24
campsites: BC(06/08,4800m),C1(01/09,5600m),C2(12/09,6200m),Smt(14/09)
agency: None
routememo:
  Email from Toyoji Wada - 13 Dec 2008

  It was easy to climb the mountain after finding climbing route, but how to escape many crevasses.

  Arrival at Kubi Kangri base camp - 6 Aug 2007
  Arrival at C1 - 1 Sep 2007
  Arrival at C2 (and altitude of C2) - 12 Sep 2007 (6200m)
  Departure from base camp - 24 Sep 2007


expid: AMAD08301
peakid: AMAD
year: 2008
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Casey Grom
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Ama Dablam Expedition 2008
countries: France
bcdate: 2008-09-22
smtdate: 2008-09-28
termdate: 2008-09-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to deep snow and continuous bad weather
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East and Island Peak
campsites: BC(22/09,4600m),C1(25/09,5700m),xxx(28/09,6000m)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  High point near top of yellow tower.

  Well acclimatized by climbs of Lobuche East (to 5700m till deep snow stopped by Grom and Herschke on 17 Sept) and Island Peak (to summit on 21 Sept by all 5 members, Mingma Ongel and Kalden Sherpa).

  This team were the first to arrive at BC and were all alone on mountain; another team arrived as they were leaving. So they had to work hard to fix the route (spent more time shovelling snow than climbing). 26th and 27th were fixing days, 28th summit push, 29th to BC and 30th left mountain. They left quickly because weather was not improving, members were not strong climbers, they were having to do a lot of shovelling and Golden was being urged to come home to the US financial crisis.

  Sherpas:
    Mingma Ongel, 27/3/78, Phortse, Everest X4
    Kalden Sherpa, 21 yrs old, Pangboche, no 8000ers
    Panuru Sherpa, 22/5/68, Phortse, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X2


expid: AMAD08302
peakid: AMAD
year: 2008
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Diego Giovannini
sponsor: Italians on Ama Dablam
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2008-09-29
smtdate: 2008-10-13
termdate: 2008-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to too much snow, too soft
campsites: BC(29/09,4500m),C1(01/10,5000m),C2(10/10,6000m),xxx(13/10,6400m)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  High point at 6400m.

  On 10 Oct Giovannini and Gasperetti went to C2 to fix rope. They fixed parts between C1 and C2 and fixed between C2 and 6400m. On 12 Oct they descended to C1, where Calliari and Giongo had been since 11 Oct. On 13 Oct high point team left C1 at 7 am. Weather good, but too hot. They reached 6400m at 11 am and decided to abandon expedition due to soft snow. It was impossible to put in any snow stakes and they turned back. They dismantled C2 and C1 and returned to BC. Arrived at 4 pm.

  Pontalti reached C1 on 5 Oct. He did not feel well and returned to BC same day. He stayed there for remainder of expedition.


expid: AMAD08303
peakid: AMAD
year: 2008
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Tara Garson
sponsor: Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: New Zealand
bcdate: 2008-10-10
smtdate: 2008-10-13
termdate: 2008-10-14
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to bad snow conditions and lack of time
campsites: BC(10/10,4300m),ABC(11/10,5500m),C1(12/10,5800m),xxx(13/10,6000m)
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
routememo:
  13 Oct Garson, Flower and Dawa left C1 for C2 at 9:30 am and near 6000m here found snow conditions bad. At 11:00 am down to Pangboche as clouds were coming in. Now no more time to make another bid. 

  Caire did not go up from C1 with his teammates because he could see weather was changing.

  Sherpa:
    Ang Dawa Sherpa, 28 years old, village near Phaplu, no 8000ers


expid: AMAD08304
peakid: AMAD
year: 2008
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Dirk Groeger
sponsor: Amical Alpin Ama Dablam Expedition 2008
countries: Austria, Switzerland
bcdate: 2008-10-03
smtdate: 2008-10-15
termdate: 2008-10-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to deep snow and lack to time
campsites: BC(03/10,4600m),ABC(07/10,5300m),C1(08/10,5600m),xxx(15/10,6000m)
accidents: Messen tooth infection
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  ABC occupied only once (for acclimatization)
  High point at C2 site.

  Amical Alpin Ama Dablam Expedition, led by Dirk Groeger - 24 October 2008

  After occupying C1 on 8 Oct, the team went down to BC on the 9th, then up to C1 on the 10th, and on the 11th Groeger, Weiss, Sona Dendu and Tshering Tashi went up to 6000m, the site for C2, and back to BC the same day.

  On the 14th, Groeger, Weiss and the two Sherpas returned to C1 and on the 15th to C2's site. There they saw that there was too much deep snow on the route above. The team had only four or five climbing days left in their program; there was more snow now in the areas of the lower camps, and it was very difficult to fix ropes securely under these circumstances. There was no chance to summit in the time that was left. Groeger decided to call off the climb.

  The four men went down to C1 that day, while the other eight remaining members came up from BC to C1. On the next day, the 16th, Groeger told the other members to go up to the site for C2 with Sona Dendu to see the situation for themselves. It was a good climb from C1 on solid rock, and in C1 you don't have the feeling that you're on the mountain. Most of them didn't actually reach 6000m and the whole team was back in BC that day. They left BC on the following day.

  One member left the team early: Meesen had a throat infection which was caused by an infection in the root of his tooth. He left BC on 11 Oct.

  There was a quarrel between Groeger and Diego Giovaninni, leader of an Italian team, who accused Groeger's Sherpas or members of stealing one of the Italians' tents and other items, while Groeger denied the charges. The outcome was that Groeger stopped speaking to Giovaninni, and the Italians removed their ropes.

  Fixed rope: 250m between C1 and C2

  Sherpas:
    Sona Dendu, 5/10/60, Khumjung, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X5
    Tshering Tashi (Sona Dendu's son), 7/12/85, Khumjung, Everest X2


expid: ANN108301
peakid: ANN1
year: 2008
route1: S Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Jean Troillet
sponsor: International Annapurna Expedition
countries: France
bcdate: 2008-09-11
smtdate: 2008-09-26
termdate: 2008-10-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to dangerous avalanching
campsites: BC(11/09,4200m),Depot(25/09,5000m),C1(26/09,6300m),xxx(26/09,15/10,6300m)
agency: Sherpa & Swiss Adventures
routememo:
  BC west of Tent Peak (same site as Ueli Steck spring 2008)
  C1 on South Face at foot of ridge
  High point at ridge on South Face.

  International Annapurna Expedition led by Jean Troillet - 20 October 2008

  After the team arrived at BC on 11 Sept, rain fell almost every day, which meant snowfall at higher altitudes and avalanche danger. It was not until 25 Sept that they moved up from BC to their deposit camp, 800m above base.

  On the 26th, the five members moved their tent from 5000m to 6300m at the foot of the ridge on the South Face that they planned to climb, following the Bonington route of spring 1970.

  They slept there that night and next day went down to BC to rest and wait for good weather for their alpine-style climb to the summit. While they waited, they walked around the area at the foot of the South Face.

  Finally, on 15 Oct Dumas, Fredriksen, Reichen and Troillet moved up to 5000m and that night went up to 6300m. They arrived at the camp site at about 11:00 pm to find 50-60 cm of fresh snow covering the area. The tent they had left there packed up was under the snow, and they dug it out and set it up. They slept there the rest of that night and the next night also.

  A huge avalanche came down the face west of their route, and they could see that the line they proposed to climb was "loaded" with snow waiting to come down. So on the 17th they decided the avalanche danger was too great. They packed up and took all their gear down to BC. The climb was over.

  Deurient did not join the second ascent to 6300m because he had twisted his knee and torn a ligament. He and Troillet came back to Kathmandu by helicopter; he may need an operation after he gets home.


expid: ANN108302
peakid: ANN1
year: 2008
route1: NW Face
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Martin Minarik
sponsor: Annapurna 2008
countries: Slovakia
bcdate: 2008-10-08
smtdate: 2008-10-19
termdate: 2008-10-25
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to strong winds on NW Face and North Face
agency: Iceland Trekking (Tendi)
campsites:
  BC(08/10,3900m),Biv1(14/10,5200m),Biv2(15/10,6000m),Biv3(16/10,6400m),Biv4(17/10,7000m),Biv5(18/10,7400m),xxx(19/10,7500m)

routememo:
  High point at NW Face.

  The leader, Martin Minarik, left Kathmandu on 23 Sept with a trekking group to Tilicho Lake. The other two members left Kathmandu on the 27th; they went to Jomsom via the Thorong La. The three met in Jomsom on the 4th of Oct and to the normal site for expeditions on the northern side of Annapurna I; they arrived at BC on 8 Oct.

  On the 11th, they climbed to a glacier under the NW Face and camped there at 4800m to acclimatize a bit and to look for good access to the face. They were back in BC the next day.

  On the 14th, the three men moved through the glacier and up onto the NW Face through seracs to camp at 5200m. This was the most dangerous part of their climb because of the seracs.

  On the 15th, they took their tents and climbed the steep section of the face at up to 80 degrees and camped at 6000m.

  On the 16th, they took their tents to 6400m, where there was plenty of space to pitch them, "a nest between seracs." But next day they stopped at their "poorest" camp site on snow under the largest serac at 7000m. There was little space here, and it was very windy.

  On the 18th, they camped at 7400m in the middle of a snow slope. From that afternoon till midnight half-meter of snow fell on their campsite.

  The next day, they tried to go up with a tent, but at 7500m it was very cold, very windy, and there was new snow on the mountain side. Here they turned around and descended to 6400m.

  The weather forecast was for continued strong winds. The team decided on the 19th that they had no chance to climb the NW Face, but thought they might be able to climb the North Face. In the evening of the 20th they arrived at a new BC.

  On the 21st, all three members were suffering from food poisoning and stayed in camp, but on the 24th they moved up to the normal site for BC for climbs of the North Face.

  However, the forecast was for a temperature of minus 30 degrees and 70-80 km/hr winds above 7500m. They decided that night not to try to climb the North Face, and on the 25th they left the North Face BC to return to Kathmandu.


expid: BARU08301
peakid: BARU
year: 2008
route1: SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: David Morton
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Baruntse Expedition 2008
ascent1: 81st
countries: Canada, UK
bcdate: 2008-09-14
smtdate: 2008-09-27
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2008-09-29
campsites: BC(14/09,5445m),C1(11/09,6135m),C2(19/09,6425m),Smt(27/09)
accidents: Milan Rai acute pulmonary edema at BC
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  BC next to eastern small lake
  C1 just east of West Col
  C2 between points 6529 and 6605 below SE Ridge on east side.

  Alpine Ascents Baruntse Expedition, led by David Morton - 4 Oct 2008

  After C2 had been established on 19 Sept and occupied in their acclimatization climb, the entire expedition went down to BC to rest on the 20th. On the 22nd they started up for their push to the summit; they slept in C1 that night and C2 on the 23rd. Now heavy snowfall prevented them from continuing up on the 24th but kept them in C2 till the morning of the 27th, when they made their bid for the top. (They didn't have a problem with avalanching, but another team led by Michael Roberts did.)

  On the 27th all five members and four Sherpas left C2 at 3:30 am for the top. Wright became exhausted and had to turn back at 6900m, and Tshering Dorje turned back with him. The other members, Boyer, Edwards, Geist and Morton, plus Sherpas Lhakpa Rita, Kami Rita, and Phura Kancha went on to the summit at 11:00 am.

  The members and Sherpas had no health problems, but their kitchen boy Milan Rai from Sankhuwasabha district developed acute pulmonary edema at BC on 16 Sept, was taken down valley that day and evacuated by helicopter on the 17th for four days' recovery in a hospital.

  Sherpas:
    Kami Rita, 17/1/70, Thami, Everest X11, Cho Oyu X6
    Lhakpa Rita, 9/9/66, Thami, Everest X12, Cho Oyu X3
    Phur Kancha, 17/1/77, Thami, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1
    Tshering Dorje, 20/7/70, Kharikhola, Everest X9, Cho Oyu X4


expid: BARU08302
peakid: BARU
year: 2008
route1: SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Brooke Barnes
sponsor: Independent team on Everest
approach: Lukla->Mera La
bcdate: 2008-09-18
smtdate: 2008-09-22
termdate: 2008-09-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to concerns by Booker being too difficult
campsites: BC(18/09,5100m),C1(20/09,5790m),C2(22/09,6700m),xxx(22/09,6700m)
agency: Mountain Tribes Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at West Col.

  Team left C2 on 22 Sept at 9 am. Weather was cloudy, snow was deep. They had to cross two crevasses. They arrived at C2 at 2 pm. They stayed there for five nights. The weather was very bad (snowfall and clouds) and they did not move for the whole time. On 27 Sept the weather cleared and team set out to go for summit, but Booker did not think the conditions were within her abilities and she got scared. Barnes, as her guide, turned back with her and so did Nima and Dawa. They descended to BC.

  Rested there on 28 Sept and camped below Amphu Laptsa on 29 Sept. They crossed pass on 30 Sept.

  Sherpas:
    Nima Sherpa, Taksindu VDC, Solu, 1989 
    Dawa Tenzing, Khumjung VDC, Khumbu, 1987


expid: BARU08303
peakid: BARU
year: 2008
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Jean-Marc Orieller
sponsor: Swiss on Baruntse
bcdate: 2008-09-14
smtdate: 2008-09-29
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2008-10-04
termnote: Abandoned at 6850m due to fatigue and bad weather approaching
campsites: BC(14/09,5400m),C1(18/09,6150m),C2(21/09,6400m),xxx(29/09,6850m)
agency: Sherpa & Swiss Adventures
routememo:
  High point at 6850m below steep section.

  On 21 Sept team ascended to C2 and stayed two nights. They were contemplating a summit attack then but were too tired from having to wade up in deep snow to C2. On 23 Sept they descended to BC. After a period of bad weather they ascended from BC to C2 on 28 Sept. It took them from 10 am to 5 pm. On 29 Sept they left C2 at 5 am to go to summit, however, when they arrived at 6850m at 11 am they both felt too tired to carry on. Furthermore, dark clouds were moving in. They descended to C2, arrived at 1 pm. On 30 Sept they descended to BC.


expid: BARU08304
peakid: BARU
year: 2008
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Vicente Castro
sponsor: Karavaniers Baruntse 2008
countries: Canada
approach: Mera La
bcdate: 2008-09-29
smtdate: 2008-10-06
termdate: 2008-10-09
termnote: Abandoned at 6950m due to soft snow, impossible to fix rope
campsites: BC(29/09,5300m),C1(03/10,5900m),C2(05/10,6400m),xxx(06/10,6950m)
agency: Mountain Tribes Trekking
routememo:
  High point team left C2 at 4 am. Weather was misty. It cleared at about 7:30 am. They reached 6950m at about 10 am. They decided to turn back below the "mushroom" as the snow was too soft and they could not put any security in. They thought it was too dangerous and descended to C2. Arrived at 1 pm. On 7 Oct they descended to BC. They walked out via Amphu Laptsa.

  Dumont reached C1 on 1 Oct. When he was at BC he rang his family and had to go back due to problems.

  Sherpa:
    Dawa Tenzing, Thamo, 22 yrs, 21/3/1986, Ever X1 2006, Cho Oyu 2006 & 2007


expid: BARU08305
peakid: BARU
year: 2008
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Rainer Pircher
sponsor: Amical Alpin Baruntse Expedition 2008
ascent1: 84th
countries: Austria, France, Italy, Liechtenstein
bcdate: 2008-10-15
smtdate: 2008-10-24
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2008-10-29
campsites: BC(15/10,5400m),C1(17/10,6100m),C2(20/10,6540m),Smt(24/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC near lake
  C1 on West Col
  C2 at start of steep part of SE Ridge.

  Amical Alpin Baruntse Expedition 2008, led by Rainer Pircher - 30 Oct 2008

  The team acclimatized by going to C2 on 20 Oct. They descended to BC on the 21st, but on the 22nd they made their push for the summit.

  All members except Valta left BC on the 22nd for C1, on the 23rd they went to C2, and on the 24th they left C2 for the top with their two Sherpas, Karma Gyalzen and Nima Tenji, at 4:00 am. Six members and both Sherpas reached the summit between 8:30 am (Pircher and Gschwendtner) and 11:30 am (Tenbusch). All summiters returned to BC the same day except Tenbusch, who started up late and was not in a hurry so slept the night in C1 and returned to BC at 3:00 pm of the 25th).

  Non-summiters:

  Aurisch stopped at 6000m, too tired to continue.
  Benauer stopped at 6000m because he was too cold.
  Betinelli also stopped at 6000m because he was cold.
  Larcher got to 7050m, then turned back because of the cold and he had a headache.
  Weninger also stopped at 6000m because he was cold.
  Valta, who did not join the summit party, went to C2 on the 20th, but was not
    feeling strong enough to go up again.

  Pircher's nose got slightly frostbitten. It was sensitive to cold since it had gotten frostbitten on Nanga Parbat in June 2008.

  Sherpas:
    Karma Gyalzen (he spells his name Karma Geljen), 26/9/71, 
      Surke, Chaurikharka-4, Solu, Everest 21/5/06
    Nima Tenji, Chehewa, Waku-9, Solu, no 8000ers


expid: CHOY08301
peakid: CHOY
year: 2008
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Isabel Asensio
sponsor: Expedicio Extremena Cho Oyu
bcdate: 2008-09-13
smtdate: 2008-09-29
termdate: 2008-10-11
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to bad weather and respiratory problems of Duran
campsites: BC(13/09,4700m),ABC(17/09,5700m),C1(22/09,6400m),C2(29/09,7000m),xxx(29/9,7000m)
accidents: Breathing problem of Duran
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  On 29 Sept Asensio and Duran ascended to C2. They left C1 at 10:30 am (CST) and arrived at C2 at 6 pm. They left at 10:30 am CST) and arrived at 8 pm. Little snowing. They descended to ABC on 30 Sept. On 2 Oct Diaz and Ortega ascended to C2, stayed two nights and descended to C1. On way down they found Miha Valic from Slovenia (4 Oct). He was on the rope on bottom of serac. He was unconscious. Diaz and Ortega and 2 Americans tried to revive him but in vain. They spent two hours with him but had to leave. They stayed at C1. They descended to ABC on 5 Oct. Same day Asensio and Duran ascended to C1. On 6 Oct they intended to ascend to C2. But Duran had problems breathing so they went down to C1 to stay the night. On 7 Oct they descended to ABC and decided to abandon expedition. 

  On 7 Oct Diaz and Ortega ascended from ABC to C2. They left at 7 am and arrived at 7 pm. They stayed the night. The next morning they wanted to go to summit but it was too windy. They decided to abandon expedition and descended to BC.


expid: CHOY08302
peakid: CHOY
year: 2008
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Olivia Cussen
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Cho Oyu Expedition 2008
countries: New Zealand
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2008-09-05
smtdate: 2008-10-03
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2008-10-05
campsites: BC(06/09,4900m),ABC(09/09,5500m),C1(15/09,6400m),C2(24/09,7010m),C3(02/10,7400m),Smt(03/10)
agency: Beyul Adventure
routememo:
  Kurdt and Reckord left C3 at 10:50 pm. On 2 Oct after a member of the nearby field touring group had called them from his tent and asked them whether they could take oxygen to above yellow band, where Stuart Remensnyder (leader) had a client, Guy Laville, who was in trouble. Kurdt and Reckord took an oxygen bottle up to the pair and helped Stuart to warm up Laville and give him oxygen. At that point Stuart, who had summited on his own, had turned around his client and they were on his way down. In the meantime, rest of summit team had left C3 at 00:50 am. Weather was cold but calm. They caught up with Kurdt and Reckord at 5:30 am at 7600m, summited together at 7 am. Clear views of Everest and Pumori. They spent 40 minutes on summit and descended together. On way down they met Miha Valic, who was on his way up and looked strong. Summit team arrived at C2 at 12:50 pm. On 4 Oct descent to ABC.

  Rimai reached 6550m at just below ice cliff on 16 Sept; she turned back and descended to ABC the same day as she was not feeling well; she left BC on 23 Sept.

  Rice reached interim camp on 7 Sept; he left expedition on 9 Sept due to lack of fitness.

  Sherpas:
    Mingma Tenzing, Phortse, 1/6/86, Cho Oyu 3X, Everest X3
    Dawa Nuru (Danuru), Phortse, 26/10/78, Everest X9, Manaslu X1, Cho Oyu X7
    Da Nuru (Dawa Nuru/Dawa Norbu), Phortse, 19/5/59, Makalu X1, Ever 5X, Cho Oyu X3
    Ang Karma Sherpa, Phortse, 25/7/84, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1

  Tibetan: 
    Penjo/Phinzo, Tingri, Cho Oyu summit 4/5/07 with Bulgarians led by Konchev


expid: CHOY08303
peakid: CHOY
year: 2008
route1: NW side
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Dong-Hee
sponsor: 2008 Korea Yes Gumi Mt. Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2008-09-12
smtdate: 2008-10-02
smttime: 1025
termdate: 2008-10-11
campsites: BC(12/09,4800m),ABC(15/09,5400m),C1(20/09,6400m),C2(30/09,6800m),C3(01/10,7400m),Smt(02/10)
agency: Advance BC Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 14 Sept at 5100m.

  2008 Korea Yes Gumi Mt. Cho Oyu Expedition

  Baek, Han, Jang, Tshering Dorje, Sanu and Pasang left C3 at 1 am NST. Jang reached summit at 10:25 am with Sanu. Baek, Han, Tshering Dorje and Pasang reached summit between 11 and 11:30 am. Jang had to wait on summit for two hours for other members. The other members and Sherpas stayed on summit for about 30 minutes. Descended all together reached C3 between 2:30 pm and 4:30 pm. Baek and Han slept in C3, Jang in C2 and Sherpas descended to ABC. Next day three members slept in C1 and following day to ABC. Summit day weather was very good but very cold. About 30 climbers summited on that day, among them were about 14 Chinese, some Americans and maybe some Europeans.

  Kim Cheol-Young, Kim Hong-In spent night in C3 on 7 Oct. But they could not climb further due to very strong wind and descended to ABC on 8 Oct. Kim Dong-Hee (leader) slept in C1 on 20 Sept and remained in ABC for rest of the time. Kim Seong-II and Youn slept in C2 on 30 Sept. They had headache and next day descended to ABC. Lee remained in ABC. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 13 Oct and will leave on 15 Oct.

  Sherpas:
    Tshering Dorje Sherpa (12/10/1981) Cheskam-2, Sankhuwasabha,
      Makalu in 2008, Lhotse in 2008, Annapurna Fang 2007, Khatung Kang in 2008
    Sanu Sherpa, Makalu-9, Summited Cho Oyu in 2006, Everest in 2007, Lhotse
    Pasang Namgyal Sherpa, (10/08/2029) 25/11/72, Khumjung, 
      summited Everest in 2003 & 2008, Yalungkhang in 2004, 
      Lhotse Shar South Face in 2007 first Nepali to summit, 
      Ama Dablam in 2007

  Fixed rope: 200m above C3


expid: CHOY08304
peakid: CHOY
year: 2008
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Javier Rivas
sponsor: Independent on Cho Oyu
approach: Tingri
bcdate: 2008-09-15
smtdate: 2008-10-04
termdate: 2008-10-10
campsites: BC(15/09,4700m),ABC(17/09,5740m),C1(22/09,6200m),C2(24/09,7100m),C3(31/10,7500m),Smt(04/10)
accidents: Rivas altitude sickness
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Team left C3 at 3:15 am. It was very cold but clear. Trail was broken and hard. Chinese had fixed rope, which was very good. Good views of Everest. They spents 3/4 hours on summit. Descended to C2, arrived at 4 pm. Javier Rivas felt very sick the next morning. He thinks it was an onslaught of cerebral edema. He took some Dexamethasone and some of the medical oxygen and felt better. They left C2 at 10 am and arrived at ABC at 3:30 pm.

  Rivas shared BC with expedition of Oscar Marquez.


expid: DHA108303
peakid: DHA1
year: 2008
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Krysztof Wielicki
sponsor: Dhaulagiri I Poles & Italians
countries: Italy
bcdate: 2008-09-16
smtdate: 2008-10-07
termdate: 2008-10-08
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(16/09,4750m),C1(23/09,5800m),C2(29/09,6700m),xxx(07/10,7100m)
agency: Mountain Tribes Trekking
routememo:
  C2 at NE Ridge
  High point at NE Ridge.

  5 Oct Fronia, Szepieniec, Wielicki and Lhakpa Tshering occupied C2 for 2nd time. 6th Fronia, Szepieniec and Wielicki down to BC because every day snow and plans to go to top from C2 meant to climb in the night and the night was foggy. Wielicki thought no chance of success, but Szepieniec decided to stay and left C2 5:00 am for top; at 9:00 am at 7100m gave up attempt for summit and back to BC with all gear at 8:00 pm. Deep snow on ridge was constant problem.

  Gasser to C2 on 29 Sept, but bad cough kept him in BC after that. 

  Kobylecki never went above BC; his head hurt and no motivation; left 1 Oct.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Tshering, aka Sonam, 15/6/75, Khumjung, Everest X4, Anna I X1, Cho Oyu X1


expid: DHA108301
peakid: DHA1
year: 2008
route1: NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: John Crellin
sponsor: Independent on Dhaulagiri I
bcdate: 2008-09-25
smtdate: 2008-10-05
termdate: 2008-10-08
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to deep snow on mountain & Crellin not well
campsites: BC(25/09,4700m),C1(30/09,5500m),C2(05/10,6700m),xxx(05/10,6700m)
agency: Adventure Extreme (Monterosa Treks pmt)
routememo:
  Crellin & Dorje arrived at BC at 9:00 pm because they didn't know where BC was on the way to it. Crellin arrived "totally shattered" from past three days, very bad head cold that led to very painful sinusitis (he was unwell the entire time he was on Dhaulagiri). C1 was 300m lower than normal site because they didn't know where C1 should be. They went there on 30 Sept, down to BC on 1 Oct, 4 Oct to C1, 5 Oct to 6700m. 

  Teams were pulling out because of deep snow on mountain. Crellin lost 10 kgs on this trip.

  Sherpa:
    Dorje Sherpa, 22/6/70 (8/3/2027), Tapting-9, Solu, Lhotse X1, Makalu X1


expid: DHA108302
peakid: DHA1
year: 2008
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Michael Parker
sponsor: Dhaulagiri 2008
countries: Denmark, Norway, Switzerland
approach: Beni->Marpha
bcdate: 2008-09-02
smtdate: 2008-10-03
termdate: 2008-10-07
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to not enough fixed rope
campsites: BC(02/09,4700m),C1(11/09,5800m),C2(29/09,6600m),xxx(03-04/10,6600m)
agency: Tseringma Treks
routememo:
  On 2 Oct Parker & Voldmo, who had been to C2 before, went to C2. Conditions and weather good. When they got there, they spoke to their Sherpas who told them conditions were too dangerous and there was not enough fixed rope, even though conditions appeared to be good. They decided to abandon expedition. Parker descended to BC and Voldmo to C1 on 4 Oct.

  On 4 Oct Eigenmann and Raunbaek ascended from C1 to C2 in perfect conditions. They met Voldmo, who was on way down and he told them they could not go beyond C2 due to rope shortage. They took 6 hours from C1 to C2 and stayed one night.

  On 5 Oct they descended to C1, where Voldmo was waiting and then continued to BC.

  Bredesen reached C1 on 3 Oct; he stayed one night, but descended to BC on 4 Oct as he felt altitude sickness.

  Team says that overall conditions on mountain were perfect despite heavy snowfall from 20 Sept-27 Sept. They had lost some of their fixed rope under snow. They agree that if they had more rope they would have had a good chance to summit.


expid: EVER08301
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Francois Bon
sponsor: Trek On-Line/Acro-Base to Everest
bcdate: 2008-09-24
smtdate: 2008-10-17
termdate: 2008-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to avalanche injuries
campsites: BC(24/09,5350m),C1(05/10,6050m),C2(13/10,6400m),xxx(17/10,7200m)
accidents: Avalanche injuries to Bon and Pasang
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  Trek on Line/Acro-Base on Everest, Francois Bon - 21 Oct 2008

  Bon arrived at base camp on 24 Sept and spent a week there resting and acclimatizing. Then, when he was ready to move up to C1, he had to wait for the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee (SPCC) to finish making the Icefall route.

  He got to C1 on 5 October, slept there one night and returned to BC. On the 13th, he and Pasang Tenzing established C2 at 6400m in the Western Cwm; it was their advance base camp. They spent four nights there waiting for the wind to drop and the route to C3 to be opened, and a fifth night (of the 17th/18th) after having climbing to the site for C3. They did not stay in C3 because the strength of the wind was increasing; they went back to C2.

  When they had descended about 100 meters from C3's site, they were hit by an avalanche. It carried them about 500 linear meters down the West Face of Lhotse to the bergschrund at the bottom. A large chunk of ice had struck Bon's right knee; a ligament in his knee was broken, and his chest was battered, preventing him from being able to breathe deeply. Pasang also was no longer able to breathe deeply, and his knees and chest were painful.

  In C2 that night Bon got no sleep. He spent the night trying to hold the tent together against the wind that was blowing at 160-170 km/hr. He went onto oxygen that night and stayed on it until he reached Kathmandu by helicopter from Gorak Shep on the 20th (Pasang did not use oxygen).

  The winds that night shredded other team's tents in C2: the Koreans tents were completely destroyed. The weather forecast said the fierce winds would continue for three more days.

  There was a lot of avalanching from all sides of the Cwm. A cloud of avalanche snow from Nuptse covered base camp one day; on the 13th, the tents at C1 were crushed by ten meters of snow which came off the SW Face of Everest, and their contents were lost.

  The Icefall was moving every day. Two minutes after Bon went through it, a huge serac collapsed, and these collapses occured frequently.

  On the 20th, Bon left BC to go to Gorak Shep, from where a small helicopter evacuated him to Kathmandu.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Tenzing, 21/1/78, Phortse, Everest X8, Cho Oyu X1


expid: EVER08302
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Antoine Bonfils
sponsor: Everest Sorin 2008
bcdate: 2008-09-28
smtdate: 2008-10-17
termdate: 2008-10-21
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to avalanche injuries
campsites: BC(28/09,5350m),C1(05/10,6000m),C2(15/10,6400m),xxx(17/10,7200m)
accidents: Avalanche injuries to Bonfils and Tshering Jangbu
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Antoine Bonfils (French), the only member - 21 October 2008

  Bonfils and Tshering Jangbu were struck on 17 October by the same avalanche below the site for C3 while descending to C2 as were the other independent French climber, Francois Bon, his Sherpa, and the Mexican, Leonardo Fernandez. While Bon recalls the avalanche very well, Bonfils has absolutely no memory of being hit and carried down the mountain side; his memory resumes again at 11:00 am on the 18th while leaving C2 for BC. He stopped in C1 because he was very tired; Tshering Jangbu told Bonfils he would return to C1 the next day and continued down to BC.

  There was nothing inside the tent: no food, no water, no sleeping bag -- nothing. Bonfils had none with him; he waited for Tshering Jangbu's return. But the Icefall, which was in a very dangerous condition, collapsed during the night of the 18th; the route was completely blocked, and the Sherpa could not get back to him.

  As a result of being hit by the avalanche, Bonfils suffered some cracked ribs on his left side, what he called a hole in his head, and cuts and bruises on his left hand and his chest. He was now stuck in his empty tent with no one else at C1. Finally, in the afternoon of the 20th, he left C1, which was at the top of the Khumbu Icefall, to go down the Icefall alone. He descended to about 5800m and then slept curled up in the Icefall that night. All his toes got badly frostbitten during the night, but he survived.

  When he had gotten down to about 5700m on the 21st, he was met by some of the "Icefall doctors" hired by the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee to keep the Icefall route open, as they were moving up. Some members of the South Korean expedition attempting the SW Face of Everest were also going up. The "Icefall doctors" and one Korean with two of his team's Sherpas turned around and helped Bonfils get back to BC. (A Korean leader at BC told Bonfils that it was not most unusual for Koreans to help other teams climbers on a mountain). He left BC the same day and went to Lobuche, from where he and his Sherpa were evacuated by helicopter to Kathmandu on the 22nd.

  The Sherpa, Tshering Jangbu, had some of his ribs broken by the avalanche, and on his return to Kathmandu was admitted to the orthopedic hospital at Jorpati.

  Fixed rope: 800m between C2 and C3.

  Sherpa:
    Tshering Jangbu, 1/8/77, Lokhim-9, Solu, Everest X2, Lhotse X2, Xixa (S Face) X1


expid: EVER08303
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Mexico
leaders: Leonardo Fernandez
sponsor: Mexican for Everest
bcdate: 2008-09-27
smtdate: 2008-10-17
termdate: 2008-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to avalanche injuries
campsites: BC(27/09,5350m),C1(05/10,6000m),C2(12/10,6400m),xxx(17/10,7200m)
accidents: Avalanche injuries to Fernandez
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Mexican for Everest, Leonardo Fernandez, the only member - 24 Oct 2008

  Fernandez was rather vague, forgetful and confused about the events of his climb. For example: when did he first sleep in C1? Same date as the French independent climber Francisco Bon, whenever that was. Sleep in C2? A week after sleeping in C1.

  He first slept in C2 on 12 Sept and spent just one night there, then back to BC.  On the 15th he went directly from BC to C2 with another independent Frenchman Antoine Bonfils and stayed there two nights.

  On the 17th he climbed up to the site for C3 and spent one hour there before returning to C2. He was descending alone when at about 3:00 pm, he thinks, a snow and ice avalanche came down the West Face of Lhotse, where the site for C3 was located. He believes he was at about 7000m when he was hit by the avalanche. But he remembers nothing from the moment he shouted the warning "Avalanche" until the morning of the 18th at about 11:00 am, when he found himself in C2 with Bon, Bonfils and their two Sherpas.

  One of the Sherpas now said that the wind was not abating and all of them must descend immediately. And so they did and reached BC just after nightfall.

  Fernandez said he doesn't know when three fingers on each hand became frostbitten. But later he said he had lost his gloves in the avalanche, so he then agreed that it was logical to conclude that his fingers became frostbitten in the avalanche. He got a cut above his right eye and a swollen right ankle that hurts when he walks (after about four days following his return to Kathmandu, he may seek medical advice if it is still swollen).

  One of the Frenchmen told him that they had to tie his hands together in order to put him on a bottle of his oxygen, which they managed to do in C2 while he was unconscious, but he soon took it off while still unconscious; he estimates by looking at the indicator, he had been using the oxygen for only half an hour. He doesn't know why he felt strongly against oxygen; he had taken a supply with him for just such an emergency, but could not explain this inconsistency. He used none while conscious.


expid: GYAJ08301
peakid: GYAJ
year: 2008
route1: NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Xavier Carrard
sponsor: Expes.com Gyajikang Expedition 2008
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 2008-09-09
smtdate: 2008-09-16
termdate: 2008-09-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to heavy snowfall
campsites: BC(09/09,4800m),C1(11/09,5300m),xxx(16/09,6000m)
agency: Expes.com Treks
routememo:
  On 16 Sept Carrard, Phurba and Jaya Prakash climbed up to 6000m (about). It was not possible for them to continue climbing further up to set C2 due to to deep snow conditions and danger of probable avalanche. Carrard, Phurba and Jaya Prakash returned to C1. Next day to BC. All members slept in C1 on 11 Sept. 

  The expedition team returned Kathmandu on 24 Sept. Members leave on 27 and leader on 28 Sept.

  Sherpas:
    Jaya Prakash Rai, Makalu-6, 34 years old
    Phurba Sherpa, Dharan-18, 36 yrs old

  Fixed rope: 80m above C1


expid: HIML08301
peakid: HIML
year: 2008
route1: W Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Kiko Betelu
ascent1: 20th
approach: Besisahar
bcdate: 2008-09-30
smtdate: 2008-10-12
smttime: 1700
termdate: 2008-10-14
othersmts: Climbed unnamed subpeak
campsites: BC(30/09,4830m),C1(03/10,5600m),C2(10/10,6200m),C3(11/10,6400m),Smt(12/10)
accidents: Frostbite by Casi; cerebral edema by Yanguas
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Summit team left C3 at 6 am together with Mateos, Argote, Ibiricu at 8 am. Argote got very cold feet at about 6500m and decided to turn back. Ibiricu descended with him to C2. They stayed the night and nursed Argote's frostbite, which he had on both feet. Summit team and Mateos carried on. Mateos turned back at 7060m; he was behind Zelaia and Sandu was not feeling well; he was exhausted. When Zelaia and Sandu returned from summit, Mateos turned back with them. They descended to C3, arrived at 11 pm. There was a lot of snow on summit route and they had to break trail. On 13 Oct they descended to BC. 

  Betelu, Legarra reached C1 on various days. They ascended several times to carry things up. They did not carry on as they were too tired from all the carries they had done. Furthermore Betelu was needed at BC due to members medical problems.

  Casi and Villanueva reached C3 on 12 Oct. They did not stay the night as Casi had problems with his lungs and as they were quite late in the expedition; they decided to abandon expedition. They descended to BC same day.

  Elena Yanguas reached BC on 30 Sept; she suffered from cerebral edema and had to be evacuated by helicopter to Kathmandu on 2 Oct. Yanguas Javier left with Elena; she is his sister.

  Fixed rope: 50m below summit.

  On 9 Oct Oasi and Villanueva climbed a subpeak of Himlung (it is 5935m). They climbed the west side of this peak in one day. They started from Himlung BC at 10 am and arrived at summit at 3:30 pm. Route was snowy and not difficult, however, just below the summit the slope was about 60 degrees. They returned to Himlung BC same day and arrived at 5:30 pm.

  Sherpa:
    Sandu Sherpa, Khumjung, 31 yrs, Himlung X1 (Autumn 2003 with Belgians)


expid: HIML08302
peakid: HIML
year: 2008
route1: W Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Antonias Van Bakel
sponsor: Himlung 2008
ascent1: 21st
countries: Belgium
approach: Besisahar, up Marshyangdi->Na Khola->Phu Khola->Phugaon
bcdate: 2008-09-30
smtdate: 2008-10-14
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2008-10-17
campsites: BC(30/09,4800m),C1(07/10,5580m),C2(12/10,6090m),C3(13/10,6405m),Smt(14/10)
agency: Iceland Trekking (Tendi)
routememo:
  BC northeast of Phugaon on northside of Pangri Glacier
  C1 west of bottom of ridge
  C2 west of bottom of ridge
  C3 on West Ridge.

  Dutch and Belgium team, led by Antonius van Bakel - 23 October 2008

  Soon after arriving at BC, in order to have a good look at the West Ridge leading to the summit, van Bakel and Verheye climbed onto a ridge south of BC to 5300m. It was impossible to see the summit from BC or from anywhere along the ridge below C3.

  The summit party of both members and Pemba Sherpa left C3 for the top on 14 October at 4:00 am. As they left the camp, the temperature outside their tent was minus 20 degrees Celsius. They were climbing in the shadow of the mountain until 10:30 am. The sky was clear with an almost full moon and bright stars as they set out, but the weather was cold and windy.

  They arrived at the summit at 11:30 am and left it at 12:07. They returned to C3 at 4:30 pm and slept there that night. They were back in BC at 1:00 pm the next day.

  Hired:
    Pemba Tamang, 31/5/73, Taksindu, Solu, Manaslu 20/5/06


expid: HIML08303
peakid: HIML
year: 2008
route1: W Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Alexander Bijlsma
ascent1: 22nd
approach: Marshyangdi River->Nar Khola->Phu Khola->east to BC
bcdate: 2008-10-03
smtdate: 2008-10-16
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2008-10-21
campsites: BC(03/10,4800m),C1(01/10,5564m),C2(09/10,6080m),C3(15/10,6383m),Smt(16/10)
agency: Iceland Trekking (Tendi)
routememo:
  C2 on West Ridge
  C3 on West Ridge.

  Dutch on Himlung, led by Alexander Bijlsma - 29 October 2008

  The team spent three nights in C3: the night before they went to the summit and two nights afterwards when strong winds kept them confined to camp. During the third night, 17 October, the wind damaged one tent, and the next morning when they were trying to pack it up, it was blown away.

  Their summit bid was made by both members and Dawa Sherpa. They left C3 at 2:30 am on the 16th. Mahuys stopped at 6800m because she was sliding downhill and she feared she might have a serious accident. Bijlsma and Dawa got to the top at 2:30 pm and were back in C3 at 8:00 pm.

  In their descent on the 18th, they found that C2 had been completely damaged by the wind, so they were forced to go all the way down to C1. They were in BC on the 19th.

  Sherpa:
    Dawa, aka "Salami", 29/12/72 (15/9/2029), Najing, Garma-5, Solu, no 8000ers


expid: JANU08301
peakid: JANU
year: 2008
route1: S Ridge-E Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Cedric Haehlen
countries: Germany
approach: Tamur River->Ghunsa Khola->Ghunsa & Yamotari Glacier
bcdate: 2008-09-20
smtdate: 2008-10-13
termdate: 2008-10-16
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to strong cold wind
agency: Iceland Trekking (Dorje)
campsites:
  BC(20/09,4650m),Biv1(02/10,5100m),Biv2(03,10/10,5900m),Biv3(12/10,6300m),Biv4(13/10,6500m),xxx(13/10,6500m)

routememo:
  BC  at Yamotari Glacier
  Biv on East Ridge
  High point at plateau on East Ridge.

  Jannu 2008 - 28 October 2008

  The team arrived in Kathmandu on 6 September and three days later flew to Biratnagar, next day to Taplejung. They trekked to BC, which they reached on 20 October while "it was always raining."

  On 2 Oct the two members started up without any Sherpas from BC via the 1962 French route to 5100m, where they bivouacked on a small glacier. The next day they reached 5900m and camped on a small plateau at the end the small glacier. This was an acclimatization trip, and they descended to BC on the 4th.

  They stayed in BC till the 10th with snow falling and wind blowing at BC. On the 10th they returned to 5900m. On the 12th they climbed up the East Ridge to 6300m, and on the 13th up to a plateau at 6500m. But now the strong wind was blowing at 50-70 km/hr, and on the 14th they returned to BC. The climb was over.

  They left BC on 16th Oct and trekked to Taplejung, where they boarded a bus to Biratnagar when there weren't any flights out of Taplejung, and then another bus to Kathmandu, where they arrived on the 25th.


expid: LSHR08301
peakid: LSHR
year: 2008
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Diego Fregona
sponsor: Autumn 2008 Lhotse Shar Expedition
approach: Dingboche
bcdate: 2008-09-12
smtdate: 2008-10-01
termdate: 2008-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to avalanche
campsites: BC(12/09,5200m),C1(16/09,5400m),C2(28/09,5950m),xxx(01/10,6500m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  On 20 Sept Fregona fixed rope between C1 and C2 at 5600m he reached serac and slipped whilst doing so for 20m and hurt his shoulder. He went to Khunde Hospital on 21 Sept and stayed for two nights. On 23 Sept he went to BC. On 28 Sept he reached C2 in Ok conditions. When he reached the point at serac he did not have any trouble. On 29 Sept he descended to BC and on 30 Sept he went from BC to C2 in 5 hours. On 1 Oct he left C2 at midday to fix rope at 2nd serac at 6500m. He reached serac at 2 pm and when he stopped to look at serac, he triggered an avalanche. He managed to stop himself with ice axe. At this point he decided to give up. He descended to C2 where he stayed the night. On 2 Oct BC. On 4 Oct he went to C1 to collect everything. He left BC on 5 Oct. 

  He thinks that the conditions were bad this year and it was too tough alone. The conditions were different from the pictures he had seen. Less ice, more crevasses.

  Fixed rope: 250m between C1 & C2


expid: MAKA08301
peakid: MAKA
year: 2008
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Juan Corro
sponsor: Castellon Makalu 2008
bcdate: 2008-09-24
smtdate: 2008-10-15
termdate: 2008-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to strong winds
campsites: BC(24/09,5700m),C1(01/10,6200m),C2(07/10,6700m),C3(13/10,7400m),C4(14/10,7800m),xxx(15/10,8000m)
agency: Sherpa Society
routememo:
  BC below Chago Glacier
  C3 at Makalu La
  C4 on north side of NW Ridge
  High point at base of last couloir.

  Castellon Makalu 2008 led by Juan Corro - 9 Sept 2008

  The attempt to reach the summit was launched on the 15th on October by Pitarch and Gyalzen Sherpa from C4 at 7800m at 6:00 am, but the morning was very windy, and when they reached 8000m at 9:00 am, Gyalzen did not want to go higher. There were no fixed ropes ahead, and no route was already opened. Corro told Pitarch not to continue alone, so they descended to BC that day, arriving at BC at 4:00-5:00 pm.

  Pitarch's middle finger of his right hand was badly frostbitten, and he, with the team's doctor, Carlos Pardo, left BC by helicopter from Hillary BC on the 18th to go to a hospital in Europe to care for the finger.

  Fixed rope: 400m C2 to C3

  Sherpa:
    Gyalzen Sherpa, from Khumbu, no 8000ers


expid: MANA08301
peakid: MANA
year: 2008
route1: NE Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Berthold Honka
sponsor: Mariette & Berthold Honka Manaslu 2008 Expedition
approach: Khursani Bari->Machha Khola->Jagat->Philim->Deng->Namru
bcdate: 2008-09-01
smtdate: 2008-09-12
termdate: 2008-09-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to un-cooperative nature of Sherpa
campsites: BC(01/09,4900m),C1(07/09,5700m),C2(12/09,6200m),xxx(12/09,6200m)
agency: Unique Adventure International
routememo:
  C2 at below the normal C2 site.

  The Honkas reached C2 on 12 Sept followed by Peme same day, spent night there and Peme returned to BC next day saying that he will come up to C2 on 14 Sept. Then the Honkas decided to abandon the expedition and descended to BC on 15 Sept. The team returned Kathmandu on 18 Sept and will leave on 22 Sept.

  Sherpa:
    Peme Sherpa, 21/9/60, Makalu-5, Everest X3 (in 2004, 2005, 2006 with 
      Korean teams)

  Fixed rope: used other's rope


expid: MANA08302
peakid: MANA
year: 2008
route1: NE Face
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Katja Staartjes
sponsor: Dutch Manaslu Expedition 2008
bcdate: 2008-09-08
smtdate: 2008-10-03
termdate: 2008-10-07
termnote: Abandoned at 8125m (fore-summit) due to dangerous conditions
agency: Mountain Experience
campsites:
  BC(08/09,4750m),C1(11/09,5700m),C2(29/09,6300m),C3(01/10,6700m),C4(02/10,7400m),ForeSmt(03/10,8125m)

routememo:
  Tent at C2 moved to C3 and again to C4. Left C4 at 6:00 am with same of Brice's members; arrived at fore-summit at 12:30 pm with Brice members. Stopped at fore-summit because their rope had been fixed by Brice's Sherpas below fore-summit, they were not on oxygen, not fully acclimatized, tired and snow conditions beyond fore-summit not good to climb without rope (cornices), so back to C4 to sleep at 3:45 pm. 4th Oct to BC with all gear. Woolins snowblind in C2 when took off flagged goggles; blind for 2 days.

  Many teams stopped at fore-summit but claimed summit - also true of last spring, when Staartjes was on Manaslu, after expedition, none went to true summit.


expid: MANA08303
peakid: MANA
year: 2008
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiroshi Turuki
sponsor: Tsurchan Manaslu Expedition 2008
approach: Pokhara->Samagaon by helicopter
bcdate: 2008-09-07
smtdate: 2008-10-02
termdate: 2008-10-04
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to bad conditions
campsites: BC(07/09,4800m),C1(15/09,5800m),C2(02/10,6400m),xxx(02/10,6400m)
agency: Ticino Treks
routememo:
  Turuki said that his two deposit tents with climbing gear and supplies were buried under heavy snow, maybe 4-5m and could not retrieve. Many tents of other expeditions also had same problem. The team went up to C2 (6400m) spent night and returned to BC on 3 Oct. Turuki team returned to Kathmandu on 11 Oct and will leave on 13 Oct.

  Sherpa:
    Ang Kaji Sherpa, 13/8/72 (29/04/2029), Gudel-4, Solu
    Ang Kami Sherpa, 21/8/82 (05/05/2039), Gudel-5, Solu
      (summited Everest X2, last time in 2006 on Tibet side), Lhotse 25/5/08 


expid: MANA08304
peakid: MANA
year: 2008
route1: NE Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Michel Brunschweiler
sponsor: Independent climber on Manaslu
approach: Arughat
bcdate: 2008-09-07
smtdate: 2008-10-03
termdate: 2008-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to fatigue, no energy
campsites: BC(07/09,4700m),C1(11/09,5600m),C2(28/09,6400m),C3(01/10,6750m),C4(03/10,7400m),xxx(03/10,7400m)
agency: Ramdung Expedition
routememo:
  Brunschweiler left C3 on 1 Oct at 8:30 am. Snow conditions were good and it was windy, but not cold. The Austrian Schobesberger couple had been at C4 when Brunschweiler arrived. They were all waiting for their Sherpa with the tent. However, he never arrived there as he had turned around at 7200m due to cold feet. Austrian couple left C4 at 6 pm and Brunschweiler was too tired, hungry and thirsty to join them. No energy.


expid: MANA08305
peakid: MANA
year: 2008
route1: NE Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Mathias Noessig
sponsor: Amical Alpin Manaslu Expedition 2008
countries: Czech Republic, Germany
bcdate: 2008-08-29
smtdate: 2008-09-30
termdate: 2008-09-24
termnote: Abandoned at 7850m due to bad weather
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Rai)
campsites:
  BC(29/08,4800m),C1(03/09,5600m),C2(15/09,6700m),xxx(15/09,6700m);C1(27/09,5600m),C2(28/09,6300m),C3(30/09,7450m),xxx(30/09,7850m)

routememo:
  BC at 4800m
  C1 at 5700m
  C2 at below Naike Col
  High point at C2.

  16 Sept C2 to BC and then 4 days raining and snowfall with 1.2m of snow on C1 and had to dig tents out (almost covered by snow). Saw big avalanches and forecast and was for strong wind 24-26 Sept. The helicopter to fly from Samagaon was damaged and had to walk but via Larkya Pass to Besisahar and bus from there to Kathmandu.

  Two members, Lieck and Milt, stayed on mountain after main group left. They had plenty of time. All other members high point was C2 on 15 Sept except: Kucera and Langegger to 6000m only.

  Fixed rope: 500-600m between C1 & C2

  C1 at 5600m on 27 Sept
  C2 at 6300m on 28 Sept 
  C3 at 7450m on 30 Sept
  High point at 7850m on 30 Sept

  Amical group left on 24 Sept. Jiri Milt and Gunther Lieck stayed behind. Lieck teamed up with Juszczyszyn and Witkowski from Poland and subsequently with Pete Lardy and Tom McMillan from California. On 27 Sept Lieck and Polish guys started summit push. 27 Sept slept at C1. 28 Sept they slept at C2 at 6400m. They had had a tent at 6700m, which they could not find that day. On 30 Sept they ascended to C2 at 6700m found tent and slept there. On 30 Sept Lieck and Polish guys there were among first teams to reach C3 at 6 pm. Lieck and Polish left C3 at 7:30 am. Lieck reached 7850m at 2 pm at turned back. He was carrying his skis and he says that he is not sure why he turned back. Maybe due to heavy skis and fatigue. He was also misinformed about nature of summit. He descended with skis to C3, where he arrived at 3:30 pm. Polish guys reached summit that day and also returned to C3.

  Lieck stayed at C3 to wait for another summit opportunity. On 2 Oct he had a dedicated rest day and on 31 Oct he decided to leave C3 and descended. He walked first 200m and (above serac) and skied the rest to C2; stayed the night. On 4 Oct he skied from C2 to 6100m and walked rest to C1. He also skied parts of route between C1 and BC. He arrived at BC at 8:30 pm.

  Milt reached C3 at 7400m on 3 Oct. On 4 Oct he descended to BC. He abandoned climb due to snow storm.


  Email from Billi Bierling - Oct 20, 2008

  This is what Iris Haeusel, member of German-Italian team on Manaslu led by Renato Bernard, said about Gunther Lieck:

  When Haeusel was at BC on 29 Oct Guenther Lieck arrived and he was feeling very bad. She thinks he had pulmonary edema. She gave him Dexamethasone but he already had a gurgling in his lungs. They were very worried about him. However, the next day Lieck felt a lot better.

  When I met Franz and Maria Schobesberger from Austria, who were also on Manaslu they asked me whether I had met Lieck as they also saw him and they told me that they were really worried about him when they saw him (I don't know where that was).

  The interesting thing is that Lieck did not tell me anything about his problems. When I asked him why he turned around he said that he was not quite sure why as he was feeling strong.


expid: MANA08306
peakid: MANA
year: 2008
route1: NE Face
nation: USA
leaders: Thomas McMillan
sponsor: Friendship Beyond Borders Manaslu Expedition
approach: Dhading->Arughat
bcdate: 2008-09-12
smtdate: 2008-10-03
smttime: 1415
termdate: 2008-10-06
termnote: Abandoned at 8125m (fore-summit) due to dangerous conditions
campsites: BC(12/09,4800m),C1(15/09,5770m),C2(29/09,6770m),C3(02/10,7400m),ForeSmt(03/10,8125m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Lardy and McMillan left C3 at 6:30 am on 3 Oct and Ang Dawa left at 6:50 am. Perfect weather, but breezy. They were following footsteps of the Himex Expedition, so trail was broken. They reached the little col below the summit cornice. Views from the summit were amazing. They started descent at 3:05 pm. McMillan reached C3 at 5 pm, Lardy and Ang Dawa reached C3 at 5:15 pm. On 4 Oct they descended to BC. They left C3 at 7:30 am and arrived at BC 6:30 pm.

  Team did not losed any equipment at C2 as they only pitched their tent there on 29 Sept.

  Sherpa:
    Ang Dawa, Tapting, Solu, (2034/10/02), no 8000ers


  On foresummit (a col below summit) on 3 Oct by Lardy 2:22 pm, McMillan 2:15 pm, Ang Dawa 2:20 pm.


expid: MANA08307
peakid: MANA
year: 2008
route1: NE Face
nation: Poland
leaders: Pawel Jusczyszyn
sponsor: Independent team on Manaslu
approach: Samagaon
bcdate: 2008-09-07
smtdate: 2008-10-03
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2008-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 8125m (fore-summit) due to too much snow, no rope taken
agency: Ramdung Expedition
campsites:
  BC(07/09,4700m),C1(11/09,5600m),C2(17/09,6200m),C3(29/09,6800m),C4(02/10,7400m),ForeSmt(03/10,8125m)

routememo:
  Team left C4 at 7 am on 3 Oct. Weather was windy but clear. Snow conditions were Ok. Guenther Lieck (Amical) left with them but fell behind pretty quickly. They reached high point at 2 pm. They had a look and decided that the cornice was too unstable. They would have tried had they had a rope. They descended to C4 where they arrived at 6 pm. On 4 Oct they descended to BC. It took them from 8 am to 10:30 pm. They did not have a C2 at summit push. On 5 Oct Witkowski left BC and Juszczyszyn left 6 Oct.


expid: MANA08308
peakid: MANA
year: 2008
route1: NE Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Stephan Keck
sponsor: Austrians on Manaslu
approach: Samagaon
bcdate: 2008-09-12
smtdate: 2008-09-29
termdate: 2008-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(12/09,4700m),C1(15/09,5800m),C2(28/09,6800m),xxx(29/09,7000m)
agency: Iceland Trekking (Dorje)
routememo:
  On 29 Sept Felder, Keck and Sutterluety left C2 at 8 am. They were breaking trail. Hip deep at about 10 am they decided that snow conditions were precarious so they descended to BC, arrived at 2 pm.

  On 2 Oct the whole team Bartl, Felder, Keck and Sutterluety ascended to C1 and on 3 Oct they ascended to C2. During night weather it started snowing again and they decided to abandon summit push. On 4 Oct they descended to BC in deep snow. They left C2 at 8:30 am and arrived at BC at 2 pm.

  Climb abandoned due to snow conditions and the fact that Karl Kobler's kitchen team, which they had shared, wanted to leave as well.


expid: MANA08309
peakid: MANA
year: 2008
route1: NE Face
nation: Australia
leaders: Peter Lyons
sponsor: Independent climber on Manaslu
approach: Arughat
bcdate: 2008-09-13
smtdate: 2008-09-16
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2008-09-25
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to too much snow
campsites: BC(13/09,4800m),C1(15/09,5700m),xxx(16/09,6400m)
agency: Pasang Sherpa via Arun Treks
routememo:
  Lyons reached crampon point at 5100m on 19 Sept with Mingma and Pasang. They stayed one night and descended to BC. As Mingma and Pasang had been higher on the mountain (see below), Pasang decided that Lyons would not make it from C1 to C2 in one day. Lyons and Sherpas decided to abandon expedition due to much snow on 20 Sept. However, on 23 Sept Pasang and Mingma took Lyons to C1 to show him the snowy conditions and the tents that were buried in snow there. They stayed one night and descended to BC on 24 Sept. Mingma reached C2 at 6400m on 16 Sept to pitch the tent. He descended to C1 where Pasang was waiting for him. Both descended to BC to be with Lyons.

  Sherpas:
    Mingma Sherpa, 18/6/65 (04/03/2022)
     (on Dhaulagiri in autumn 1988 with Japanese expedition)
    Pasang Sherpa, Ngimar, Garima-8, Solu, 9/3/1974, Everest South 2006 19/5/06


expid: MANA08310
peakid: MANA
year: 2008
route1: NE Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Franz Schobesberger
sponsor: Independent team on Manaslu
approach: Samagaon
bcdate: 2008-09-07
smtdate: 2008-10-03
termdate: 2008-10-06
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to no tent at C4 (Sherpa carried it but turned back)
campsites: BC(07/09,4700m),C1(10/09,5600m),C2(17/09,6400m),C3(01/10,6700m),xxx(03/10,7400m)
accidents: Frostbite Kaila Sherpa
agency: Ramdung Expedition
routememo:
  On 3 Oct the Schobesberger couple left C3 at 7 am. They were together with Swiss left C3 at 7 am. They were together with Swiss Brunschweiler and Kaila Tamang. Kaila was carrying tent and was behind. According to clients he turned back below 7000m as he could feel oncoming frostbite on hands and feet. Andrea and Franz Schobesberger arrived at C4 at 3 pm. They were waiting for Kaila to arrive with tent. They asked a Sherpa from other group to have a look for Kaila (at 6 pm). But he could no find him as they could not find any other tent to stay in. They decided to descend to C3 at 8 pm; arrived at midnight. They found Kaila in his tent in tears as he was in pain. On 4 Oct the three descended to BC. They left at 8 am and arrived at 9 pm. Kaila left BC on 5 Oct by foot. He went to clinic and doctors said he would keep his fingers.

  Sherpa:
    Kaila Tamang, Thuloparsel VDC-9, Kavre district, Manaslu X1, 
      Dhaula X1 2007 C3 (Spain) with Santiago Sagaste


expid: MANA08311
peakid: MANA
year: 2008
route1: NE Face
nation: Canada
leaders: Jean-Pierre Danvoye
sponsor: L'Echappe Belle
approach: Arughat->Samagaon
bcdate: 2008-09-09
smtdate: 2008-09-13
termdate: 2008-09-26
termnote: Abandoned at 5550m due to too much snow
campsites: BC(09/09,4750m),C1(13/09,5550m),xxx(13/09,5550m)
agency: Mountain Tribes Trekking
routememo:
  Team left BC on 13 Sept at 10:30 am it took them 4 hours to get to C1. They stayed for 2 nights to acclimatize and descended to BC on 15 Sept. On 17 Sept it started to snow again. On 22 Sept Danvoye and two Sherpas ascended to C1 to dismantle camp. They had to dig it out. Even though they dismantled camp on 22 Sept, the final decision to abandon climb was taken on 24 Sept. The reason was that there was too much snow and avalanche danger. They left BC on 26 Sept and walked out via Larkya Pass.

  Sherpas:
    Tendi Sherpa, Taksindu, Solu, 1967, Everest 2004
    Namgel Sherpa, Thami, Khumbu, 1971


expid: MANA08312
peakid: MANA
year: 2008
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Kenji Kondo
sponsor: Adventure Guides Manaslu Expedition 2008
approach: Samagaon
bcdate: 2008-09-15
smtdate: 2008-10-05
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2008-10-09
campsites: BC(15/09,4700m),C1(23/09,5800m),C2(03/10,6800m),C3(04/10,7400m),Smt(05-06/10)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  5 Oct left C3 at 4:40 am. Conditions were good. Broken trail. They reached col at 9:30 am and Kondo short-roped clients up to true summit. They left summit at 10:30 am. They intended to stay at C2 but not enough cooking gas so they continued to BC at 8 pm.

  6 Oct team left C3 at 3:30 am. There was fresh rope on summit cornice. They arrived at 9:30 am on true summit, spent 10 minutes there and descended to C2 arrived at 5 pm. On 7 Oct to BC.

  Suzuki reached 6000m on 29 Sept. He abandoned climb due to old age. It was exhausting for him. He descended to BC and stayed at BC for remainder of expedition.

  Takagi reached 6400m on 2 Oct. He was with 6 Oct summit group. He had stomach pain and descended to BC same day.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Kaji, Sotang, Solu, 14/2/81
    Phurba Chhiri (aka Phurba Tshering), Kurima, Solu, 4/10/68
    Dawa Chhiri, Kurima, Solu, 20/2/1967
    Da Tendi (Da Tendi), Saframa, Lokhim, Solu, 28/5/1981, 
      brother of Phurba Chhiri


