# exped

expid: MAKA76102
peakid: MAKA
year: 1976
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Josep Montfort
sponsor: Spanish Makalu Expedition
ascent1: 10th w/Czech
countries: W Germany
bcdate: 1976-04-06
smtdate: 1976-05-24
campsites:
  BC(06/04,4827m),C1(09/04,5500m),C2(12/04,6000m),C3(16/04,6600m),C4(05/05,7200m),C5(21/05,7420m),C6(23/05,7950m),Smt(24/05)

routememo:
  Josep Montfort, BC Makalu - 30th May, 1976

  The Base Camp was established on April 5th, at 4870m, in the Barun Valley and near the Czechoslovakian BC.

  In the follows days we had established the high camps:

  C1 at 5500m on April  9th
  C2 at 6000m on April 12th
  C3 at 6600m on April 15th
  C4 at 7240m on May    4th 
  C5 at 7420m on May   21st
  C6 at 7900m on May   23rd

  The route until C3 was crossing the icefall from the South Col, where it was necessary to put 3 fixed ropes and two ladders in different places, in order to be easily crossing crevasses. Between the C3 and C4 we must to install 800m of fixed ropes on the ice wall.

  Between the C4 and C5 we must install 1000m of fixed ropes, following the SE Ridge until the Black Gendarme and after we had flanked on the East Face.

  In the C6 we had had met by the Czechoslovakian expedition, and together had reached the top. In the top went one Spanish member team, together by two Czechoslovakian members team, one of them didn't came back to the C6, although the Spanish and Czechoslovakian members waited for him whole night. Next day they tried to look for him, but it was unsuccessful.

  We have scheduled to come back to Tumlingtar from the BC on May 31st. We try to travel by charter plane from Tumlingtar to Biratnagar and immediately to fly from Biratnagar to KTM while the truck will go to Birgunj.


  Bahi - 10 March 76

  Reached BC 1st April; climb SE Ridge to Black Gendarme and thence across east side to final summit ridge if snow good quality. 

  6 high camps with big camp as kind of advance base.
  Oxygen only for sleeping at C6.

  Summit middle May 10-20 May; by 1st June must retreat because of monsoon onset.

  Walk out to Dharan.

  Dr Redardo arrives in Nepal 18-20 April.

  LO's name is Bhandary.


expid: MAKA76101
peakid: MAKA
year: 1976
route1: SE Buttress up; SE Ridge down
nation: Czechoslovakia
leaders: Ivan Galfy
sponsor: Czechoslovak Himalaya Expedition 1976 - to Makalu
ascent1: 10th w/Spaniard
bcdate: 1976-03-20
smtdate: 1976-05-24
smttime: 1630
accidents: Schubert probable fatal fall on descent from summit
achievment: 2nd ascent of Makalu SE Summit
campsites:
  BC(20/03,4850m),C1(22/03,5800m),C2(27/03,6200m),C3(02/04,6700m),C4(19/04,7300m),C5(26/04,7850m),C6(23/05,7950m),Smt(24/05)

routememo:
  Schubert missing since night of 24/25 May.

  Wolf - 9 June 76

  Czechs descended via Spaniards route, much quicker.

  Don't know what happened to Schubert, whether he fell or what happened. 10 hours from C6 to 8300m where he stopped meant impossible to go to spot and look for him. Summiters exhausted and unable and for those in C5 also not possible. 3 summiters were not roped during descent and Schubert went more slowly; he stopped at beginning of a traverse over to top of fixed ropes.

  Note: Schubert's body found by Spanish in Spring 1989 in sitting position [about 7800m].


  Wolf to Wiedner - 26 May 76

  24 May 16:30 Czechs Krissak and Schubert on summit; together with them on top was Camprubi (Spain) from C6 7950m. 

  3rd member of Czech summit team Orolin returned from back about 100m from below summit. During descent which lasted until middle of night, Schubert forced spend night 8300m.

  From 9 pm on 25 May he was missed. Rescue action undertaken but stopped by extreme exhaustion of support team on 26 May at 10:15. Czech expedition prepares for return trip.


  Wiedner - 24 May 76

  Czech changed C6 to saddle below summit at 7950m on 23 May.

  Spaniards C6 same place and same day in close cooperation with Czech expedition; probably today attempt Czechs and 1 Spaniard. Spaniards not so strong.

  HMG permission to change routes granted; all probably go down.
    
  Spaniards route; permission is to go down either route if other expedition agrees.


  Wolf to Wiedner - 18 May 76

  Attack on summit did not succeed. 14 May Orolin and Talla from C6 tried reach summit. Unfavourable weather conditions; 8050m stopped. Now starting 2nd attack preparations 23-24 May.


  Wiedner - 10 May 76

  Vladimir Petrik arrived today by helicopter with frostbitten toes; stays at Express House. Says summit planned for 12th or 13th with 11th C6 to be established; in 1973 expedition had not quite reached Col.


  Wolf, BC - 7 May 76

  The weather in Makalu is clear, but very windy in these days, so that is impossible to climb. We have established the C5 and fixed the ropes above it to the altitude of 7900m. Nov we are waiting in BC, C1, C2 and C3 for the better weather. 

  All members are in C1, C2, C3, C4 and C5 waiting for weather to be able to start to attach the summit. The weather however is not too good; everyday new snow here in the BC so as in the other camps. Very cold BC: -7 degrees C at night in other camps were through we found the first blossoms in the base camp. Has the cows and yaks are two days march below the BC.


  Letter 25 Apr 1976 from Galfy

  C4 had been established on 19 Apr at the altitude of 7300m. There are ropes fixed up to C5 at the altitude of 7850m and we expect to establish this camp in the next days.

  The climate is the usual one in Makalu region in this season. The maximum temperature is 10 degree, the minimum minus 10 degrees C at BC. There are however some slight signs of coming monsoon present, storms and strong wind. The daily snowing is usual.

  The health condition of all members and Sherpas are relatively good.


  Czech BC via Wiedner - 23 April 76

  C4 7300m 19 May when established; new snow (1/2 meter) in difficult rocky terrain. Established by: Michal Orolin, Miran Krissak and Karel Schubert.

  Presently working way to C5 and on 22nd reached 7750m.


  Wiedner - 21 April 76

  C4 7300m on 19 April
  Very bad weather, every day new snow; even base has 1 feet snow. 
  All 3 lower camps repaired and already making route towards C5.


  Wiedner - 11 April 76

  Czech BC (Wolf ?) told him on radio this evening they had blizzard last night which damaged tents, but no one hurt and progress continues. 50% damaged all 3 camps.


  Letter from 26 Mar 76

  C1 has been established on 22 Mar. In the moment 4 members are prospering to C2 (6200m).


  Wolf - 29 Feb 76

  10 Sherpas 
  LO's name is Bhatta
  6 high camps at same places as before and C6 at about 8100m.

  "Many of our members have been 5 times there, they know every stone. All that's needed is to repair the ropes, establish camps and go to summit."

  Summit by 10-15 May.


  Czech Makalu had pitched 5 high camps with C5 at 7850m and planned C6 for 8200m. Reached 8010m on 21 May 1973 when member Jan Kounicky fell and all climbing halted to try to save him (he died 26 May).


  Wolf - 17 Feb 76

  Trucks 3-9 tons Birgunj after 1 week.

  Technical difficulties have been overcome in previous expedition; now all that's to be done is traverse long East Ridge. 


  Wiedner - 19 Jan 76

  Leader and deputy leader same as last time Ivan Galfy and Dr. J. Wolf 
  Arrive 12 Feb, stay at Express House
  2 trucks leave Prague about 20 Jan.

  Sirdar to be same as last time: Ang Temba


expid: ANN476101
peakid: ANN4
year: 1976
route1: S Face
nation: W Germany
leaders: Klaus-Peter Schubert
sponsor: German Himalayan Expedition 1976
ascent1: 10th
countries: Austria, Netherlands
approach: Pokhara->Hoggoth
bcdate: 1976-04-30
smtdate: 1976-05-18
smttime: 1315
termdate: 1976-05-18
campsites: BC(30/04,3600m),C1(03/05,4100m),C2(06/05,5020m),C3(13/05,6800m),Biv(16/05,7150m),Smt(18/05)
routememo:
  Schubert - 26 May 76

  [Schubert] looks drawn, walks only with effort using ski poles left route; reached top 18 May 13:15 hours and stayed 20 minutes very good weather; could see N and S.

  In Germany calculated last day 18th, but then feet frozen and took long time to go down; from 18th no food; came down same route as up. 

  Carried tent with them; found 1 tent but C2 broken, but little food on 20th. 

  18th no food and no drink and nothing until C2.

  Biv 7150m in snowhole 17/18; next day to top after C2; no food until Siklis where gave food and help.

  South side route not dangerous: only when new snow causes avalanches.

  I think it was no problem except painful feet. Baumann little frostbite, but Schubert more because had frozen feet 2 times before.

  2 days of storm during ascent.

  Glad he did it? "I think so."


  MT staffer at Pokhara to JOM Roberts - 25 May 76

  Schubert and Baumann arrived Pokhara today am perfectly Ok; claim reached summit 18 May.

  [later tel. call: they have slight frost bite; will arrive KTM tomorrow's flight].


  Goltzsche - 24 May 76

  10 May Schubert and Baumann. 
  5 am Gotzsche woke them and 6 am they left C2 5030m.

  Day before they had carried tent and food for 6/8 days and fuel to 5350m; way was very dangerous from ice avalanche [prone]; for us others, too dangerous and we not going there.

  2 routes: left and right (right was rock difficult but safer). Schubert and Baumann said too late and we next go on top; why too late? don't know. Went left route. Walkie-talkies not working and on 11th Goltzsche went 4700m rock and saw whole route: could see them 9:15 am at 5800m and they moving up; each day Goltzsche went up to this rock despite each day weather not so good with little snow fall.

  10 May left C1 to BC, but left supplied tent at C1 till 19 May. Hope they have gone down to Marshyangdi and Pisang (10 days to Pokhara).

  Goltzsche and all members left BC 18 May.

  Others arrive Tuesday by minibus.

  Litte hope they went down north side to Marshyangdi; most probably in crevasse or because ill from altitude.

  Schubert had only one thing in his head: to go top; same with Baumann and they had not much time because took longer than expected to reach BC and all had to be back at work next Monday.


  MB Pandey, MFA - 20 May 76

  Baumann and Schubert missing since 10 May after went up from C2 and was intensive search not found; all returning base camp and expedition unsuccessful.


  May 1, 1976

  Reached transit BC on 24th of April in jungle beyond Hogo BC established after 6 days on altitude 3460m under difficult conditions.

  A climb through glacier impossible. Try to by-pass Icefall from left. Hope to make C1 on mountain after three days 4020m.

  Time for ascent very short. Summit must be reached before 10th of May. 

  All members are in good condition. Sherpas and liaison officer excellent.


  Pit Schubert - 20 April 76

  Leave Pokhara 21 April and arrive BC 26 April at about 3500m above Hoga village.

  Route directly North to little bit of East Ridge and then west (left) to summit; thus entirely new route. 

  4 high camps; highest on glacier below ridge but what altitude impossible to say; all other expeditions who looked at this route said it impossible; very bad at lower part.

  Summit 15-17 May, possibility for all members, but we will see.
  1 Sirdar and 3 Sherpas, etc.


  Letter from Pit Schubert

  Since the time, when we reached Germany I am ill with my feets. Half a year I had been in hospital. Now I am in hospital too. Eight toes had been cut.

  Some years ago frozen feets were always cut directly. Now there is a therapy to wait a long time (half a year and more) with cutting. So they can save more of the feets as when they cut directly.

  Mr. Roberts suppositions why we need such a long time to reach the top were not correct. But he couldn't know it better, because the time when we spoke to him after expedition in KTM was so short, that we couldn't tell him the reason. It was storm (one day in tent), one day avalanches, one day a wrong way couldn't recognise the top. Then we had nothing to eat and to drink (only snow) and than we started to the top. So we need for this distance (if we had food and drink, I think only one day) two days, we slept in a small snow cave, sitting the whole night, nothing to eat and nothing to drink, no sleeping bag, only one pair of crampons.


  Letter from James O. Roberts

  The bizarre conduct and events of this expedition tend to obscure the importance of this first ascent of one of the great snow and ice faces of Nepal ("great" in extent rather connecting AIV to AII, from 7317m to about 6000m.). The face is better described as a vast basin of snow and ice, west by smaller peaks descending south from Annapurna IV and on the East by the lower bulk of Annapurna II and the flanks of Lamjung Himal.

  The upper slopes may not be so very difficult, but the trouble is that all that snow and ice drain down into a narrow gorge or funnel at the top of the Madi River, seemingly in the past, a death trap of avalanches. (The writer long had ideas of getting into the basin above the dangerous part by a long detour, up, over and down, from the west thus solving this very interesting and important problem himself. But he seems to have left it too late). The DAV party took the direct line and survived.

  The long time - 9 days to the summit (7526m) from C2 at 5220m may be explained, possibly by soft snow on the South facing slopes. That the summit was reached there seems no doubt. Some may call for photographic evidence, but most will trust Schubert's integrity as a fine mountaineer.

  However the point is, was the lower route taken the action of a blind man crossing a crowded city street at a peak traffic hour, and surviving, or a safe and sound way up the face? I refer to the portion between about 5220m and 6000m.

  The story is that at Camp 2 the remaining members refused to follow Schubert and his companion up the "left hand way" although they would have agreed to a route on the right (east the side on which Lamjung Himal discharges enormous ice avalanches into the gorge). Schubert described his route as "quite safe." In view of the contrary opinion held by the deputy leader and others some further evidence of this, together with photographs if possible, would be of great interest.


expid: GURJ76101
peakid: GURJ
year: 1976
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Philippe Ertlen
sponsor: Alsatian Expedition to Gurja Himal
ascent1: 4th
approach: Pokhara->Ghustang Khola (BC)
bcdate: 1976-04-09
smtdate: 1976-05-05
smttime: 1300
campsites: BC(09/04,4450m),C1(12/04,5030m),C2(16/04,5750m),C3(20/04,6000m),C4(6800m),Smt(05/05)
routememo:
  Accident 5 May - 3 members who reached summit fell:
    Soubrane died immediately
    C. Ertlen critically injured and died 7th May
    Schoenahl minor injuries


  Bernadette Vasseux - 17 May 76

  Bodies not brought down at all. Will be left where they are and rest walking back in 10 days. Only Maurice Schoenahl remains now in KTM: leader and Sissler went to BC in Today's helicopter.


  MB Pandey, MFA - 16 May 76

  Gurja Expedition's bodies have been brought down to BC.


  B Vasseux - 12 May 76

  No news from mountain; idea is to bring bodies to KTM and cremate here with Godavari fathers conducting service. Parents of Christine not coming to Nepal.


  Philippe Ertlen - 9 May 76

  Arrived by helicopter from Gurja:
    Schoenahl
    P. Ertlen
    Sissler

  5th in C4 5 members and on 6th Philippe and Laubacher went down for help. Climbed via SW Ridge C3 in col at 6000m shoulder at 6800m: most difficult part of route; fixed rope up this part.

  1st team put 1 tent on shoulder on 4th May.

  5th May up from C3 to C4 and found no one at 2:30 pm (started 4:30 am). At shoulder meet Japanese route.

  At 5 pm heard Maurice coming down and he cried accident. Helped him to C4; 3 of 2nd team went to accident site at about half hour up from C4. Started fall about 7000m and fell 200m. Francois died immediately on rocky mountain side, Christine unconscious and carried her to C4.

  6 May Philippe and JC to BC to get help via Japanese route. Reached BC 2:00 pm and sent messenger and LO to Dhorpatan to ask for helicopter and sent 2 Sherpas to C2 to go up next day to C4.

  7th May weather too bad (heavy snowfall) and Sherpas could not reach C4 via Japanese route and returned to BC. Christine died, but 2 others could not leave C4 because weather.

  8 May RNAC Alouette helicopter: hoped it could take persons to C2 at 5750m, but unable reach that altitude. Maurice and Bernard to C2 in am, Bernard to BC.

  9th May Alouette to C2 and brought Maurice; Maurice really in good health.

  2 bodies are on shoulder. Others go up to bring back bodies with help of Sherpas and bring to KTM. Don't know how accident happened or cause of death of Christine.


  Dr Sissler - 8 May 76 (from helicopter)

  2 groups of 3. 1st reached summit: Schoenahl, Soubrane, Miss Ertlen.

  New route - very marvelous, nice and very difficult. Would to return by Japanese easy route and 15 minutes before reaching C4 at 6800m Christine crampons caught and she fell and pulled other 2. Soubrane died instantly and he left where he died because very difficult terrain. She was brought to C4 by 2nd group Philippe Ertlen, Jean-Claude and Aghina who planned go summit next day. J-C saw distress signal from Maurice who was crawling towards C4. Christine still in C4 with beginning serious frostbite and frozen arm and and with her Aghina and Maurice who has fractured ribs.

  Philippe and Jean-Claude to BC to inform about accident. J-C had frostbite on all fingers but now all right.

  Christine she is still in C4. Sent 3 Sherpas but one twice.

  Accident happened 5 May: 1:00 on summit, 3:00-3:30 accident occured

  Alouette to try to take rescuers close.


  Letter from Philippe - May 6, 1976

  Yesterday after reaching the top of Gurja by a new and difficult way (SW Ridge) 3 members had a bad accident, they fell down 200m. Francois Soubrane died immediately, Christine Ertler has small cerebral commotion and Maurice Schoenahl is only little contusioned. 3 other members are in good health but abandoned the ascent at 6800m because of this accident. 


  Letter from Philippe - April 21, 1976

  We reached C2 on 15th of April. (We find some useful old fix ropes between C1 and C2). We put a temporary Camp 3 on 6000m (19th of April) just below the SW Ridge of Gurja Himal. This ridge looks, rather difficult between 6000m and 6800m (first part is rock, second ice or hard snow) but we hope to climb it soon with help of some fixed rope in the beginning. Weather is nice in the morning but it is snowing each day in the afternoon. 


  Philippe Ertlen  - 23 March 76

  BC on left side of Ghustang Khola beside glacier into Khola. Route same as Friday 1972 and Japanese 1969 to about C2; thence entirely new route via and SW Ridge.


  Christine Ertlen - 23 March 76

  Ridge, not same as 1972 route except in lower part.
  BC 4500m; 3 high camps on south side.

  Leave Pokhara end March; 12 days to BC
  No climbing oxygen.
  2 Sherpas.


  Letter from Philippe 

  In a hurry to send you a short message yesterday. After reaching the top of Gurja by a new and difficult way 3 members had a bad accident. They fell down 200m. Francois Soubrane died immediately, Christine Ertlen had small cerebral coronation and Maurice Schoenahl is only little contusioned. 3 other members are in good health, but abandoned the ascent at 6800m because of this accident.

accidents:
  Accident 5 May - 3 members who reached summit fell: Soubrane died immediately, C Ertlen critically injured and died 7 May, Schoenahl minor injuries


expid: DHA176101
peakid: DHA1
year: 1976
route1: NW Ridge
route2: NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Renzo DeBertolis
sponsor: Italian Expedition to Dhaulagiri I
ascent2: 5th
approach: Pokhara->Beni->Myagdi Khola (BC)
bcdate: 1976-03-18
smtdate: 1976-05-04
smttime: 1430
termdate: 1976-05-10
campsites:
  TempBC(18/03,3700m),Dep(21/03,4150m),BC(23/03,4610m),C1(27/03,5220m),C2(09/04,5870m),C3(19/04,6630m),C4(25/04,7100m),C5(03/05,7530m),Smt(04/05)

routememo:
  Bernardi - 18 May 76

  7 arrive today and rest arrive tomorrow. Weather was very bad, snowing every day and wind terrible. Ridge very difficult because of weather not the mountain.

  3 members stayed C5 night of 3 May and 4 May ready to start 6 am. On 4 May bad hurricane came up and Gadenz returned to C5 (he has frostbite foot and hands). Others returned 4 pm very tired and one with frostbitten foot; 3 to C4 6:30 pm. All frostbite Ok now.

  Summiters Zortea and Simoni; Gadenz returned to C5.


  Letter from Alfonso Bernardi - 7 May 1976

  The Italian expedition gained the victory over the Dhaulagiri I at 2:30 pm May 4.

  A team (3 members) left the C5 at 6 o'clock in the morning, reached the top in spite of a hurricane (2 members, the 3rd Gadenz went down on the C5) and arrived on the C5 at 4 o'clock; at 6:30 pm they were on C4 and the morning after at 10 pm on the C2.

  All members now are in BC and BC (3700m). Next Monday (10th) the expedition begins the trekking towards Pokhara.


  Letter from Alfonso Bernardi - 1 May 1976

  The struggle for the top is going. But the wind is too strong. All members are in C2, C3 and C4 (7100m). The C5 has rest been pitched because the strong wind. We hope that a team may reach the top no later the 6th of May.


  BC - April 14, 1976

  The NW Ridge route was abandoned because the formidable problems and dangers.

  This is the progression of the team:

  4 April - Henry, Camillo De Paoli, Scalet, 3 Sherpas, Gianpaolo De Paoli, Zortea 
            and 5 Sherpas reached 5220m and placed the 1st camp. They went just at 
            5440m long the route of the NE Col.

  6 April - Santon, Martini, Simoni, Gadenz and 3 Sherpas reached 5510m and left 
            their loads.

  7 April - Martini, Simoni and 3 Sherpas reached the NE Col and placed a tent and 
            came down on the BC. Henry, Camillo De Paoli, Zortea and 7 Sherpas 
            reached on 1st camp and the day after are in NE Col and placed the
            2nd camp at 5870m.

  12 April - Martini and Simoni reached 6650m and returned to 2nd camp; stormy wind.

  14 April - Zortea, Camillo De Paoli and the Doctor with 2 Sherpas leave BC and go
             in 2nd camp.

  At present in the BC:
    Renzo DeBertolis
    Francisco Santon 
    Pietro Scalet 

  1st camp:
    Edo Zagonel
    Zortea
    Camillo De Paoli
    Doctor


  Letter from Alfonso Bernardi - 8 April 1976

  April 4 - C1 (5220m) was reached by Henry, Scalet, Camillo De Paoli and 3 Sherpas
            and Gianpaolo De Paoli, Gianpaolo Zortea. Henry, Camillo De Paoli, 
            Scalet, Gianpaolo Zortea reached 5440m.
  April 5 - Santon, Martini, Simoni, Gadenzand  Sherpas reached C1.
  April 6 - Santon, Martini, Simoni, Gadenz and 3 Sherpas reached 5510m and 
            left their loads.
  April 7 - Martini, Simoni and 3 Sherpas reached NE Col (5860m), organized a tent.
  April 8 - DeBertolis, Gianpaolo De Paoli, Scalet left the BC to C1 and NE Col.


  PM Singh, MFA - 5 April 76

  Dhaulagiri I BC, 4780m, 23 March


  Letter from Alfonso Bernardi, BC - March 1976

  Two day ago we reach first BC at 3700m up of the Japanese team of last year. (13 days of March). Our 370 porters returned to their villages and now our team, Sherpas and high altitude porters are Ok.

  Two teams yesterday went up and reached a place to organize an intermediate camp at 4100m.

  Today 20 porters and 7 Sherpas with loads left our camp, but didn't reach intermediate camp because of strong north wind. In fact since yesterday afternoon is snowing.

  Tomorrow four Italians and 20 porters will try to reach this new camp and organize it, to stay during the night and the morning after go up to explore the high moraine where put the definitive BC at 4700-4800m.

  Our conditions of health are very good.


  Bernardi - 2 March 76

  High BC at 4700m on Myagdi Glacier north of point 23,270; route onto ridge to be chosen when at high BC: northwest of point 23,270 or southwest of it. If no route at all on this ridge, then go east to col of 19,280 and thence along NE Ridge.

  All except Bernardi leave KTM tomorrow and leave Pokhara 4th; 15 days to low BC. 


  Bernardi - 27 Feb 76

  12 members: 11 guides and 1 doctor and Bernardi meterologist.

  10 Sherpas including Ang Temba sirdar.

  20 H-A porters from low BC to high BC.
  200 porters

  BC (high) 4700m in Myagdi Glacier on north side of Dhaulagiri.

  7 or 8 high camps on northwest side; expect route decided after reaching BC and seeing snow conditions and weather progress on this "mountain of storms." May choose 1960 Swiss or US 1974 and shift BC further east.

  Leave KTM 1 April 15 days trek to BC, arrive BC about 20 March; 2 months's food supply.


  Alfonso Bernardi - 22 Feb 76

  Went for 12 days trek to see route to BC and to see mountain.

  "Difficulty on Dhaulagiri is the weather not the mountain." NW Ridge, same as Japanese attempt (who had fatal avalanche of 5 Sherpas and 2 Japanese). NW Ridge means only one route even with avalanche:

  5000m of the North Face = 4 North Face Eigers, one on top of one another.

  Bernardi goes with expedition only to BC.

  Others arrive Wednesday
  Probably and leave 1st days of March
  Renzo De Bertolis, leader
  Gruppa Guide Alpine e Portatori; all professional; 11 or 12 members
  San Martino di Costrozza in Dolomites
  Col Origi arranges Sherpas, etc.


expid: GLAC76101
peakid: GLAC
year: 1976
route1: SW side
nation: Austria
leaders: Reinhold Messner
sponsor: Glacier Dome Expedition
countries: Italy, W Germany
approach: Pokhara->Modi Khola->Annapurna Sanctuary (BC)
bcdate: 1976-04-14
campsites: BC(14/04,3800m),C1(19/04,4900m),C2(5300m),xxx(5600m)
routememo:
  "High-level tourist trek" for elderly men and women. No serious attempt to reach summit.


  Messner - 11 May 76

  5600m or 5700m highest - could not cross gully at beginning of route because of avalanche - alternate route too difficult. 

  BC 3800m
  C1 4900m
  C2 5300m

  Never crossed ridge between Annapurna side and Gangapurna side because group incapable of doing it.


  Reinhold Messner - 6 April 76

  Leave KTM 8 April. Normal route - Japanese south side and Hauser route 1st, then maybe try from Annapurna BC on West Ridge.

  3 high camps - only 2 weeks for normal route. Then perhaps 2-3 days for Messner and colleague Hagner from Makalu to try West Ridge. 

  16 total - 1 woman and 1 doctor may be unable to go up really high altitude trek. Climb maximum of 3 weeks at BC. Return to KTM 8 or 9 May and leave Nepal 11 May.

  8 Sherpas


expid: LHOT76101
peakid: LHOT
year: 1976
route1: S Face
route2: S Ridge-W Ridge (to 7600m)
nation: Japan
leaders: Kanji Kamei
sponsor: 1976 Kanagawa Alpine Association Lhotse Expedition
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1976-02-26
smtdate: 1976-05-09
termdate: 1976-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to heavy snowfall
campsites:
  BC(26/02,4300m),C1(08/03,5800m),C2(19/03,6400m),C3(25/03,7250m),TempC4(17/04,7300m),xxx(09/05,7600m)

routememo:
  Kamei - 13 June 76

  Planned C4 at 7780m but rock face there very difficult; made a camp at 7300m (called advance camp).

  7600m reached by 2 members 2 times, but no camp; this highest point reached.

  C3 many snow avalanches; every day snow falling; every day had to make new routes. Winds not so bad as constant snowfall. Route possible in good weather.


  Kohguchi - 26 May 76

  Bad weather - wind and snow, I cannot reach summit. Left BC 22 May. No C4 established. 

  Others expected in KTM 10-14 days. Ryohei Uchida arrives 1st or 2nd June; trying to reach to Ridge

  Only accident 1 Sherpa's leg.


  PM Singh - 27 Feb76

  BC at 4300m yesterday.


  PM Singh - 10 March 76

  C1 established at 5800m 8 March.


  Veda & Kamei - 5 Feb 76

  18 members total now
  5 to Lukla 4 Feb 76; others to Lukla about 10 Feb.

  18 tons baggage also by air.
  2 groups porters; 300 each from Lukla to BC.

  1973 recce reached 7300m route South Ridge to West Ridge.
  BC on Lhotse Glacier at 5350m
  C1 6000m on South Ridge, etc.
  From C3 to C4 very difficult rock wall
  Maybe one more camp above (or beyond) C6 
  West Ridge is long ridge at altitude.

  BC established end of Feb.
  C4 end of March at top of South Ridge rock wall
  C5 mid-April
  Summit mid-May

  12 Sherpas including 2 sirdars: Ang Tsering (1975 Japanese Everest women summiter) and Sange.


expid: LAMJ76101
peakid: LAMJ
year: 1976
route1: E Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Shizuo Kunisawa
sponsor: Kochi Himalaya Expedition 1976
ascent1: 6th-8th
bcdate: 1976-04-01
smtdate: 1976-04-28
campsites: BC(01/04,3700m),C1(07/04,4700m),C2(19/04,5400m),C3(25/04,6100m),C4(26/04,6450m),Smt(28-30/04)
routememo:
  Iwa-to-Yuki (1977) reports BC at 4000m and C1 at 5050m.


  Kunisawa & Ujihara - 8 May 76

  Did not go to South Peak because ran out of food - and HMG did not permit it. Would not have been so difficult to reach South Peak.

  LO's reports re summit people and dates not so difficult to climb main peak but felt altitude above 6000m (no climbing oxygen).

  All members well - no accidents
  Good weather and good team works 
  Only 2 here now - rest on 14th


  PM Singh - 2 May 76

  28 April summit by Wada, Kenichi Kiyooka, Soichi Takeda, Kazuo Yamamoto 
  29 April  Chusei Irimaziri
            Hiroshi Kawada
            Seizi Yamamoto

  Mingma Tenzing Sherpa, sirdar
  JEPA Sherpa

  30 April:  Yasumi Ujihara
             Kenichi Nakahira
             Toichi Nozima
             Tsuneo Komatsu
             Shojiro Murata
             Tsamu Tozaki
              
  leaving BC  9-10 May
  C3  6100m  25 April

  C4  6450m 16 April
  weather good


  Ujihara & Kunisawa - 13 March 76

  East Ridge, same route as 1974 Japanese route. Then from summit to South Peak 6931m high and 500m direct distance from main summit.

  18 March leave for Pokhara by road; 22 March leave Pokhara, arrive BC 
  29 March at 4200m

  5 high camps; C5 at 6900m almost at top start from C5 from South Summit also, but not same day as main summit attack.

  19 total: 14 climbers and 5 stay at BC doing scientific research and medical care.

  All 14 hope to reach main summit, but difficult; hope to send 4 members to South Summit. No other expedition tried South Summit 

  Main summit end of April - 28-30 April 
  3 Sherpas 
  Oxygen medical use only


expid: MANA76101
peakid: MANA
year: 1976
route1: NE Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Jung-Sup
sponsor: 3rd Korean Manaslu Expedition
bcdate: 1976-03-27
smtdate: 1976-05-05
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to high winds
accidents: Kim Jung-Sup hit by ice block in chest and also some finger frostbite
campsites:
  BC(27/03,4200m),C1(05/04,5200m),C2(09/04,5900m),C3(22/04,6500m),C4(27/04,7200m),C5(03/05,7800m),xxx(05/05,7800m)

routememo:
  MB Pandey, MFA - 16 May 76

  Manaslu abandoned and expedition already on way back to KTM.


  Bah, KDC - 8 May 76

  Kim in room 263 Shanta Bhawan, but condition not serious.


  KDC - 11 May

  Kim still in hospital, expedition still climbing.
  Kim is in Blue Star Hotel, room 101.

  Kim Jung-Sup, born 29/8/34
  Kim Ho-Sup,   born 01/5/44 - 10/4/72 (died on Manaslu)
  Kim Ki-Sup,   born 29/3/46 - 04/5/71 (died on Manaslu)


  Kim Kyoung-Bae - 8 May 76

  Kim Jung-Sup, Kim Kyoung-Bae and 4 Sherpas arrived. 3 Sherpas and Pasang Dawangchu sirdar frostbite.

  Strong wind and snow (not avalanches) 7800m above C5 making route to summit (C5 highest camp) placed summit.

  Kim hit by ice block in chest and also some finger frostbite. Sherpas say accident happened at C5 site while establishing camp.


  MB Pandey, MFA - 7 May 76

  C5 5 May at 7800m and while establishing camp leader and 2 Sherpas injured by snow cover (avalanche ?). Requested to bring big helicopter.


  12 March 76 - Manaslu

  Leave KTM 16 March and leader follows; by bus to Trisuli; all meet in BC.
  Establish BC last March in same place as 1972. 5 high camps. 
  Same route as previous 2 expeditions. Avalanches up to God.
  Summit mid-May; C5 at about 7800m

  Using climbing oxygen. 
  Same route as 1971 and 1972

  If time and equipment after summit, will search for bodies.

  Route = East Face onto NE Ridge.


expid: JANU76101
peakid: JANU
year: 1976
route1: NE Ridge-N Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Masatsugu Konishi
sponsor: Sangaku Doshikai Jannu Expedition 1976
ascent1: 4th-7th
approach: Dharan->Ghunsa-Jannu Glacier (BC)
bcdate: 1976-03-15
smtdate: 1976-05-11
smttime: 1530
agency: Trans Himalayan Trekking (THT)
campsites:
  BC(15/03,4500m),C1(21/03,5050m),C2(26/03,5500m),C3(11/04,6200m),C4(17/04,6500m),C5(25/04,7150m),C6(09/05,7400m),Smt(11-14/05)

routememo:
  Konishi - 13 June 76

  Same route as New Zealand route. From C2 to C3 could see New Zealand ropes, but not safe to use. Other New Zealand rope not found: snow avalanche area and probably taken away.

  C2 -> C3 most difficult part of climb. Vertical rock with very hard blue ice between C3 and C4 found New Zealand campsite. Used very different campsites because snow conditions different autumn and spring. From C6 to summit also very difficult. 1st party put in fixed ropes so not difficult for other parties. 6750m fixed rope total used - 155 pitches. No oxygen.

  Had experienced team with enough members to rotate lead climbing and resting. New Zealand ropes showed route. 


  MB Pandey, MFA - 18 May 76

  3rd group to summit 31 Baisakh = 13 May
    1) Toshio Yakigama
    2) Seichikana Mura
    3) Kuyani Kawakami


  MB Pandey, MFA - 16 May 76

  Summit on Baisakh 30 = 12 May: Leader Konishi, Kazuyoshi Kono, Masaru Samba and 2 Sherpas Pemba Tsering and Phurba Sherpa.

  Still more members will attempt summit.


  Sakashita - 16 Feb 76

  We can succeed because we very strong with much experience in Himalayas.

  "Japanese route little steep but near top (= near summit when reached top of ridge) not so difficult, but perhaps this route has avalanches dangers, then we change to New Zealand route."


  Sakashita - 11 Feb 76

  Ogawa 1973 recce and others 1975 recce. Route slightly to right of New Zealand planned route up (via snowfield not ridge) to ridge and thence right on ridge.

  Advance team Ogawa, Oki and 3 members in Nepal arrive 23 Dec. 

  Keiichi Oki went to Khumbu for trekking [and fast acclimatization] and finding oxygen cylinders for expedition. Oki flew KTM/SYB 27 Jan, Namche all day 28 Jan, on 29 Jan he and 2 friends went to Thyangboche and 3 Jan reached Pheriche. 31 Jan climbed a peak 5000m east of Pheriche and returned to Pheriche at 15:00 hrs. 1 Feb became unconscious 15:00 hrs. 2 Feb died at Pheriche 17:45 hrs due high altitude sickness. Body brought to KTM (now at USAID) and will be cremated 13th.

  Main party arrive 12th RNAC from BKK. Expedition leave KTM by bus to Dharan (baggage in Dharan now mostly came by sea) soon as possible after 12th ceremony at THT 7 pm - maybe 17th.

  Leave Dharan about 20 or 21 Feb after collecting 300 porters. Arrive BC after 18 days at about 4800m (higher then New Zealand), 10-12 March.

  C1 - 5300m in icefall
  C2 - 5700m 
  C3 - 6200m on face
  C4 - 6700m on face
  C5 - 7200m on ridge
  C6 - 7400m on ridge
  Hope reach summit 1 May
  10 Sherpas and 1 sirdar Karma Sherpa.


expid: DHA197106
peakid: DHA1
year: 1997
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Zac Zaharias
sponsor: Australian Army Alpine Association Dhaulagiri Expedition
ascent1: 92nd
approach: Myagdi Khola
bcdate: 1997-04-16
smtdate: 1997-05-25
smttime: 1830
termdate: 1997-05-29
accidents: None
achievment: 1st Australian ascent
agency: Wilderness Experience
campsites:
  BC(16/04,4500m),ABC(21/04),C1(28/04,5900m),C2(29/04,6700m),C3(06/05,7250m),C4(23/05,7450m),Smt(25/05)

routememo:
  Agnew, Caldwell, Killip, Molyneaux, Sparks and Walton left on 23 May because they could not summit and wanted to trek back.

  21 April started to climb and established glacier camp. All got there. 22-24 April ferrying gear to glacier camp. On 24 April Caldwell, Killip, Laursen, Lock, Rogerson, Sparks and Zaharias slept there. On 25th April set up C1 and returned to glacier camp; Lock and Rogerson slept at C1 on 26 April. Lock and Rogerson set up C2 and returned to C1. The rest moved to C2. Lock and Rogerson slept at C2 on 29 April. Then all went to BC to rest. 

  2 May went to C1 (Zaharias, Agnew, Killip, Rogerson, Sparks, Molyneaux and Laursen) and slept there. On May 3 Zaharias, Rogerson and Laursen went to C2 while Lock, Caldwell went to C1. On May 4 Zaharias, Rogerson, Lock and Laursen stayed at C2. The others carried gear there. On May 5 rested at C2. Killip moved up to C2. May 6 Lock and Rogerson occupied C3. Zaharias and Laursen carried gear to C6 and slept at C1. Zaharias and Laursen carried gear to C3 and slept at C1. Agnew, Molyneaux and Caldwell occupied C2. On 7 May most descended. May 8 severe storm. Those at C2 descended to C1. May 9 stayed there. May 10 all descended BC strong wind and a meter of deep snow. May 11-12 rest days. 

  May 13 first summit attempt by Lock, Laursen, Zaharias and Rogerson. Slept at C1. May 14 moved to C2. May 15 rested at C2 more snow (one meter more). May 16 down to C1 in waist-deep snow. May 17 back to BC. 

  20 May to C1 the [above] four and Van Roy, Caldwell, Agnew and Walton. May 21 the four and Van Roy went to C2, the others returned to BC. May 22 Zaharias, Lock, Laursen and Rogerson slept at C3, Van Roy at C2. May 23 the 4 slept at C4, the other 6 went back. May 24 rested at C4. May 25 left for summit at 7:45 am for knee-deep snow after wind stopped. The clouds came in at 11 am. At 3 pm the clouds broke. There was some sunshine. Reached the summit ridge at 6:30 pm. Then a breeze started blow which continued till 9 pm getting stronger. Spent 5 minutes at the summit. Descended and 1/2 hour later wind started to pick up. Then it got very cold. Reached C4 at 1 am of May 26. Laursen climbed to 7700m and returned because he was too tired. Stayed there till midday and descended to C3. Laursen and Zaharias stayed then other two descended to C2. Strong winds at night. On 27th May Laursen and Zaharias came down to C2 and all slept at C1. May 28 down to BC.


expid: TUKU97101
peakid: TUKU
year: 1997
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Alex Van Roy
sponsor: Australian Army Alpine Association Tukuche Expedition
countries: Germany
bcdate: 1997-04-18
smtdate: 1997-05-03
termdate: 1997-05-11
termnote: Abandoned on 4 May due to difficulty of route
campsites: BC(18/04,4500m),ABC.GlacierCamp(25/04,5500m),C1(29/04,5900m),C2(02/05,6400m),xxx(03-04/05,6690m)
accidents: Banfield and Smith altitude problem and stopped climbing; Clifton also altitude sickness
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC  at Dhaulagiri BC site
  ABC on glacier west of SW Ridge
  C1  below and west of NE Col
  C2  on west side of SW Ridge
  High point at South Summit.

  3 May Van Roy and Hackett reached South Summit and found beyond was 4 inches of soft snow on hard ice so couldn't put in any protection. On western side of ridge to main summit was 60-degree ice and eastern side similarly steep. So decision taken 3 May not to try traverse to main summit. Total 8 members reached South Summit.

  * South Summit: 4 May all other members except Smith and Banfield, who had altitude problems (Banfield then stayed with Australian Dhaulagiri team and their BC manager). Route too difficult for this team to continue.


expid: DHA197101
peakid: DHA1
year: 1997
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hirofumi Konishi
sponsor: Japan Dhaulagiri I Expedition 1997
ascent1: 93rd
approach: Helicopter->BC
bcdate: 1997-03-28
smtdate: 1997-05-31
smttime: 1900
termdate: 1997-06-07
othersmts: Had planned Lhotse, but no time this spring
campsites: BC(28/03,4750m),C1(11/04,5800m),C2(23/04,6600m),C3(30/05,7600m),Smt(31/05)
accidents: Slight frostbite Konishi nose and Gyalzen eye
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at NE Col
  C2 at NE Ridge
  C3 at NE Ridge.

  Made deposit at 7350m on NE Ridge on 27 April but not slept in; this day Koreans summited but Kitamura arrived BC only 12 April (trekked via French Pass in start of his acclimatization which not finished by 27 April). This "big mistake" his coming late. Now kitchen boy got sick (fever and cough) and sirdar (same and leg pain and went to KTM 12 May) and Konishi in BC 10 days with fever and cough also. May 1st what up but Kitamura not strong and returned from 5300m. 22 May again up and at 6800m Gyalzen also cough and fever so again down. 29 May from BC to C2 Konishi, Kitamura and Gyalzen; 30 May to 7600m; 31 May to summit and down to 7600m; left C3 at 4:45 am and on top 7:00 pm and returned to C3 at 2:30 am on 1st June and slept there. Kitamura very tired in descent from summit and in dark Konishi had problem finding route.

  Gyalzen Sherpa says he was born in summer 1961, lives in Yilajung, near Thami; this is his 1st 8000m on summit.


expid: ANN197101
peakid: ANN1
year: 1997
route1: NE Buttress-N Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kang Tae-Sun
sponsor: 1997 Korean Annapurna I - Kangchenjunga Expedition
bcdate: 1997-03-04
smtdate: 1997-03-19
termdate: 1997-04-05
termnote: Abandoned at 7250m due to avalanching and deep snow
othersmts: Attempted Kangchenjunga (KANG-971-04)
campsites: BC(04/03,4300m),ABC(09/03,5000m),C1(10/03,5400m),C2(19/03,7250m),xxx(19,28/03,7250m)
accidents: None except Ngati's fatal fall into crevasse
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C2 at NE Buttress
  High point at C2.

  Did not climb Dutch Rib as planned because dangerous crevasses at front of it, so instead went to NE Buttress on left of rib, but unable to climb higher here than C2 at 7250m because very deep (chest deep) snow. So 20 March all down to BC. 23rd up again to ABC and 300m above ABC, where Ngati Sherpa fatal fall into hidden crevasse. 22nd 3 Sherpas from BC to C1 without problem. 22nd night much snow fell, but 23rd nice clear weather so next party set out for C1 also; snow had buried fixed ropes in some places. From ABC Ngati set out first while members changed from shoes to boots and warm clothes; when members finally followed Ngati's footprints found hole where he had fallen 15-20m into hidden crevasse hedged in narrow section. Members were half-hour behind Ngati - pulled body out and to ABC 23rd. 24th to BC with all members and Sherpas in BC - helicopter took body, Ngati's brother Nangle Sherpa, Kang and Go to KTM on 28th. Other members and 2 Sherpas on 27th go BC to C1. 28th C1 to C2. 29th 2:00 am heavy snowfall and cloud/fog so stayed C2. 30th while having breakfast avalanche came and Sherpa's tent covered with men inside while members got outside; members dug out Sherpas (who were OK) and members down to BC same day and climb finished at 10:30 pm arrival BC.

  C2 reached on 19 March by Go, Kim, Lhakpa Sherpa, Tenji Sherpa, Ang Kami Sherpa, Kami Sherpa, Mingma Dorje Sherpa and Mingma Sherpa.

  28 March by Um, Park, Yoo, Shin, Lhakpa and Tenji.


expid: DHA197102
peakid: DHA1
year: 1997
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Kobi Reichen
sponsor: Swiss Dhaulagiri Expedition
approach: Myagdi Khola
bcdate: 1997-04-10
smtdate: 1997-04-27
termdate: 1997-05-06
termnote: Abandoned on 5 May due to too much snow
campsites: BC(10/04,4650m),C1(26/04,6600m),xxx(27/04,6900m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  High point on NE Ridge.

  Acclimatized by carrying gear to depot (5800m). Since had no Sherpas, had to carry loads themselves. Planned to make summit from camp at 6600m, so no higher camp established. 27th Reichen up to 6900m for acclimatization and skied down to BC same day. 2 May both to camp to try for top but too much wind that night and snow fall and saw bad weather coming again so on 3 May to BC. Then afternoons every day snow fall and decided climb finished. Needed one week good weather but this team had no more time to wait.


expid: TUKU97102
peakid: TUKU
year: 1997
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Aad Buijtendijk
sponsor: Kubuz Tukuche Peak Expedition
approach: Dhampus Pass
bcdate: 1997-04-27
smtdate: 1997-05-01
termdate: 1997-05-03
termnote: Abandoned on 2 May at 6300m due to altitude effects
campsites: BC(27/04,5300m),C1(30/04,5800m),xxx(01/05,6300m)
accidents: Both members altitude sickness
achievment: 1st Dutch attempt
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  BC west of little Tukuche Peak on Japanese Dhaulagiri map
  C1 on NW Ridge south of meeting of ridge from French Pass
  High point on NW Ridge.

  Both members went to a deposit at 6025m on 2nd after day's rest in C1 and strolled up to 6025m. 3 Sherpas went to 6300m on 1 May to carry loads to site for C2 there. Members never up higher than 6025m because of very bad headaches from altitude on the night of 1 May and decided on 2nd to stop climb because of altitude problem. Sherpas again to 6300m on 2nd to retrieve gear.

  * Sherpas: Tsering Rinzi, Nawang and Tchuck Tenzing.


expid: DHA197103
peakid: DHA1
year: 1997
route1: NE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Park Young-Seok
sponsor: 1997 Dong Guk University Dhaulagiri I Expedition
ascent1: 91st
approach: Myagdi Khola
bcdate: 1997-04-10
smtdate: 1997-04-27
smttime: 1400
termdate: 1997-04-29
campsites: BC(10/04,4800m),C1(12/04,5800m),C2(18/04,6600m),C3(26/04,7300m),Smt(27/04)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at NE Col
  C2 on NE Ridge
  C3 on top of ridge
  High point at C2.

  On main trail to BC up Myagdi Khola, snow avalanches in section between Boghara and Lipsiba required 2 days to make new trail. Were first team on mountain and made most of route; fixed 1100m on C2 and C3. Jeong and Kim Dae-Won stayed in C2 because not acclimatizing to altitude. Dhaulagiri I very long ridge and avalanche danger; left C3 at 2:30 am on 27 April and on top 2:40 pm by Park; Kazi on top at 2:00 pm and last man Kim Hun-Sang at 3:00 pm; were 100m or so apart so as not to set off avalanches on top of each other; returned C3 7:00-7:30 pm so night fell. 28th all in BC. Windy (down from top at about 7600m very strong and took shelter under rock half hour).

  Kaji said has completed 32 years, his village in Loding, Takakharni VDC, Solu near Junbesi.


expid: DHA197104
peakid: DHA1
year: 1997
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Mari Abrego Santesteban
sponsor: Abycer Dhaulagiri Expedition
bcdate: 1997-04-11
smtdate: 1997-05-04
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to wind, snow and avalanche danger
campsites: BC(11/04,4700m),C1(16/04,5800m),C2(22/04,6500m),C3(01/05,7400m),xxx(04/05,7800m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  High point at traverse onto North Face.

  2 May avalanched at 7600m and heavy snowfall started and had to stay 3rd in camp with more big snowfall. 4 May to 7800m and down to BC because now avalanching and wind. 6 days in BC. 12 May to C1, 13th to C2, but weather very bad with wind too strong to go C3 to retrieve gear there.


expid: DHA197105
peakid: DHA1
year: 1997
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Luis Carlos Gonzalez de Matauko
sponsor: Arabako Expedition to Dhaulagiri I
approach: Myagdi Khola
bcdate: 1997-04-11
smtdate: 1997-05-08
termdate: 1997-05-12
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to winds and deep snow
campsites: BC(11/04,4700m),C1(18/04,5800m),C2(25/04,6700m),C3(29/04,7300m),xxx(08/05,7800m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C2 at bottom of NE Ridge
  C3 on NE Ridge
  High point on NE Ridge.

  4 May summit bid stopped by 2 big avalanches on right of ridge; snow up to knee-deep. Team tried to send more members from BC on 5 May. Two reached C3 8 May and weather got very bad and after 2 nights there retreated with Gasteasoro with frostbitten finger.


expid: DHA197107
peakid: DHA1
year: 1997
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Venezuela
leaders: Marcus Tobia
sponsor: Venezuelan Dhaulagiri Expedition
approach: Myagdi Khola
bcdate: 1997-04-24
smtdate: 1997-05-06
termdate: 1997-05-16
termnote: Abandoned at 7250m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(24/04,4700m),C1(25/04,5700m),C2(26/04,6600m),C3(06/05,7250m),xxx(06/05,7250m)
agency: Sherpa Trekking Service (STS)
routememo:
  BC at Italian basecamp 19 April (3500m).

  Had made a deal with Korean Expedition to leave the tent for them at C4 but did not reach C4.

  Had planned to attempt the summit on 6 May, but there was too much snow and danger of avalanche and returned to C2.

  Wanted to try again and reached C3 on 12 May again. In the meantime had gone to BC to rest. On 12 May discovered everything was blown by the wind. Had taken with them another tent but was not able to pitch it because of the wind. Then descended to BC. The bad weather continued (at French Pass wanted to rest and make camp). The weather (deep snow) was very bad. After 2nd attempt on 12 May waited for 3 days for weather to clear but it didn't.

  Arrived at C3 on May 6 with Australians who pitched one tent.


expid: AMAD97101
peakid: AMAD
year: 1997
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: 1997 Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Belgium, Canada, France, Switzerland
bcdate: 1997-03-25
smtdate: 1997-04-06
termdate: 1997-04-12
termnote: Abandoned on 7 Apr due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(25/03,4600m),C1(27/03,5880m),xxx(06/04,6100m)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 on SW Ridge.

  Biv at 6050m above yellow tower on 5 April on route to C2 site, had to stop to put in rope and that took all day (on 30m high vertical slab) and fixing not finished till next day, but now could see route above powder snow on solid rock and every afternoon few centimeters snow fell and blown away. On 7th waited till 1:00 pm to see what weather would do: clouds came down from Everest and up from lower altitude, snow again and wind. "Snow conditions not good for rock climbing" says Chang.


expid: AMAD97102
peakid: AMAD
year: 1997
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Enrico Rosso
sponsor: Nepal 1997 Khumbu Valley Expedition to Ama Dablam & Lhotse
countries: France
bcdate: 1997-04-21
smtdate: 1997-04-30
termdate: 1997-05-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to rock fall and lack of strength
campsites: BC(21/04,4600m),Biv(25/04,5600m),Biv(29/04,5800m),xxx(30/04,6100m)
accidents: French member's altitude problem
agency: Trekking International
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  High point at 1st serac.

  Alpine-style from BC and reached 5600m, then down having left tent at 5600m and down to BC; weather bad. 28 April reached 5600m and up to 5800m on ridge on 29th again up and 30th up to 6100m when big rock fell and cut rope; Valerio fell few meters (not hurt) and now decided to descend. Down to 5800m and slept there on 1 May and to BC 2 May. 

  Ruffino decided to leave BC and after discussion other 2 also made [same] decision. Bernard got to 5200m for plan to attempt West Face, but after arriving at BC [decided] not to try face because 2 members having altitude problems and 2 remaining not enough for face.


expid: NUMB97101
peakid: NUMB
year: 1997
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Charles (Chuck) Armatys
countries: Australia, Canada
bcdate: 1997-04-24
smtdate: 1997-05-06
termdate: 1997-05-10
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to difficult snow conditions requiring additional rope
campsites: BC(24/04,4250m),C1(28/04,5100m),C2(6200m),xxx(06/05,6100m)
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC at old BC site nicely prepared 
  C1 at top of icefall at base of rock
  C2 at SSE of summit (not occupied)
  High point at C2 site.

  Saw when went to C2 site, would not have enough rope to complete climb of SW Ridge, so went down to C1 and climb finished. 19 consecutive days of snow so avalanche danger and difficult climbing conditions requiring more rope than expected. At high point scattered ashes of Doug Hall, US ice climber, who died last year.


expid: PUMO97102
peakid: PUMO
year: 1997
route1: SE Face
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Timothy O'Leary
sponsor: Pumori
countries: USA
bcdate: 1997-04-29
smtdate: 1997-05-10
termdate: 1997-05-11
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to dangerous snow conditions
othersmts: Attempted Ama Dablam (AMAD-971-04)
campsites: BC(29/04,5300m),C1(08/05,6200m),xxx(10/05,6900m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  High point on SE Face.

  Chumba Neru and Mingma went up to 5800m to fix the rope. 30 April rest. 1 May 2 reconnaissance up to 5600m by O'Leary. 2 May reconnaissance up to 5800m by Hasler, O'Leary, Staples. 3 May all 3 and Sherpas tried to establish C1 but left gear at 6100m as the snow was too hard. May 4 rested. 5 May set up C1 at 6200m. 6-7 May rest. 8 May slept at C1 (all three). 9 May reconnaissance by all 3 up to 6400m and came down to C1. 10 May summit attempt by all 3 but abandoned at 6900m due to snow conditions. Staples and Hasler slept at C1 and O'Leary went to BC. 11 May left BC.

  Stewart and Penny left early because of the weather and they had to take pictures at Periche.


expid: AMAD97104
peakid: AMAD
year: 1997
route1: SW Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Timothy O'Leary
sponsor: New Zealand Pumori/Ama Dablam Expedition 1997
countries: USA
approach: Mingbo Valley from Pumori BC
bcdate: 1997-05-14
smtdate: 1997-05-21
termdate: 1997-05-24
othersmts: Attempted Pumori (PUMO-971-02)
campsites: BC(14/05),C1(15/05,5800m),xxx(21/05,6750m)
agency: Asian Trekking
primid: PUMO97102
routememo:
  15 May went to 5800m, i.e., C1 and slept there (only Penny and O'Leary). 16 May reconnaissance along the SW Ridge up to 6000m by Penny and O'Leary. Returned to BC 17 May rested. 18 May O'Leary, Hasler, Penny, Staples slept at C1. 19 May Penny and O'Leary abandoned climb because tired. The other two rested. 20 May Hasler and Staples established C2 at 6100m and slept there. 21 May summit attempt. Staples went up to 6600m and Hasler up to 6750m and returned to C2. Had planned to leave 3 am, but was too windy and was 7 am when they started. 22 May returned to BC and abandoned climb. 

  Penny and O'Leary arrived at BC on 19 May and left it on 20 May. 24 May Hasler and Staples left BC. Penny and O'Leary trekked four days and the two parties met at Namche Bazar on 24 May.

  Sherpas: Chumba Nuru and Mingma


expid: NEMJ97101
peakid: NEMJ
year: 1997
route1: W Ridge from NW side
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Paul Bouquier
sponsor: Himlung Himal Spring 1997 Expedition
approach: Nar Khola->Phu Khola
bcdate: 1997-05-02
smtdate: 1997-05-18
termdate: 1997-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 6410m due to problems with route in deep snow
campsites: BC(02/05,4700m),C1(05/05,5015m),C2(09/05,5830m),C3(15/05,6200m),xxx(18/05,6410m)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
routememo:
  BC at Pangri Glacier
  C1 at Pangri Glacier
  C2 at upper part of glacier flat snowfield, at Col
  C3 on West Ridge, bottom of steep face
  High point at West Ridge.

  Above C1 complex of crevasses and kind of icefall: 200m difficult glacier - deep snow even at low altitude and impossible to traverse without snow shoes or skis (expedition had them). C2 at bottom of difficult part of route which was steep ice of NW Face 1000m height. C3 at col on ridge connecting Gyachi Kang to Nemjung (Nemjung's west side). Tried to climb West Ridge on 15th; dug snow cave to make C3 on 15th in good weather and slept here. Night of 15/16th more than 1 meter new snow and "we were buried in our cave and very dangerous" but kept entrance open as well as we could. 16th new snowfall of half meter in afternoon so now dangerous and very difficult to climb this steep rock ridge. Very nice route without so much snow.


expid: PUMO97101
peakid: PUMO
year: 1997
route1: SE Face/Ridge (to 6200m)
nation: Austria
leaders: Hubert Fritzenwallner
sponsor: Pumori-Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Germany
bcdate: 1997-04-18
smtdate: 1997-04-24
termdate: 1997-04-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m on 28 Apr due to avalanche danger
campsites: BC(18/04,5300m),C1(24/04,6200m),xxx(24/04)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC on small lake just south of big lake
  High point at C1.

  Avalanche quite close but not hit by any. Saw from C1 could not go higher, then then to Ama Dablam.


expid: AMAD97103
peakid: AMAD
year: 1997
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Hubert Fritzenwallner
sponsor: Pumori Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Germany
bcdate: 1997-05-01
smtdate: 1997-05-06
termdate: 1997-05-08
termnote: Abandoned on 7 May due to dangerous route in bad weather
campsites: BC(01/05,4600m),C1A(02/05,5500),C1B(05/05,5730m),xxx(06/05,6100m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  High point at SW Ridge on Yellow Tower.

  First C1 site lower than normal because had heavy loads and no Sherpas. From high-point on 6 May found would need lot more fixed rope (which would take time time to fix) and snow falling and therefore danger from avalanches.


expid: CHOY97111
peakid: CHOY
year: 1997
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Josu Feijoo
sponsor: Basque Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 243
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1997-04-18
smtdate: 1997-05-03
smttime: 1600
termdate: 1997-05-09
agency: Thamserku Trekking
campsites:
  BC(18/04,5300m),ABC(19/04,5600m),C1(23/04,6500m),Biv(30/04,6800m),Biv(01/05,7000m),Biv(02/05,7400m),Smt(03/05)

routememo:
  Stayed Nylam 4 nights, Tingri 5 nights and ABC 2 night before carrying loads to C1 and were well acclimatized. 24 April down for 4 days at ABC. From ABC 29th six members moved to C1. 30th moved up in alpine-style and slept at 6800m on plateau; 1 May Alcaraz tired and down to 5600m (and later to BC) while 5 members to 7000m. 2 May 5 members to 7400m. 3 May 5 members for top but Feijoo and Palacios turned back after 2-1/2 hours at 7485m (very soft 30 cm deep snow, so very slow progress by first person opening routes) because long time to reach summit will make it very late on top - but other 3 went up slowly to summit at 4:00 pm, taking lot of time to find highest point (when they saw Everest). Left top at 4:30 pm and biv 8050m because wind caused them not to see route because footprints blown away. Slept under small summit in hole in ice into which could have shelter for top half of body. 4th May down to 7400m where Feijoo and Palacios waiting and 9 am in very bad condition (dehydration, 2 badly frostbitten men also blind). Feijoo down to alert doctors from other teams at ABC while others go to 7000m to stay night. 5 May down to ABC and 3 US doctors, prepared to give help, did so [I asked Andueza and Izquierdo if they had]. Now in morning of 3rd May that they would become so badly frostbitten, would they still have gone to summit? Answer: not for Cho Oyu: for K2 or Everest: yes. Why Navas not frostbitten? No explanation except God's will.


expid: CHOY97101
peakid: CHOY
year: 1997
route1: NW side
nation: Russia
leaders: Igor Kalatian, Lev Ioffe
sponsor: Cho Oyu 1997
ascent1: 242
countries: Armenia
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1997-04-09
smtdate: 1997-05-03
smttime: 1200
campsites: BC(09/04,4815m),ABC(14/04,5700m),C1(16/04,6400m),C2(20/04,7000m),C3(02/05,7600m),Smt(03/05)
accidents: Nothing serious; Agarkova frostbite from alpine climb just before coming to Cho Oyu
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  On same permit of Americans, but were entirely independant team above ABC. Summit party left C3 at 6:00 am Chinese time on 3 May and were on top at 12:00 noon (on top found picket left by Americans and cross left by Austrians) and Lebedeva saw Everest from that point (she arrived 15 minutes before Ioffe and waited for him. Zoeva arrived an hour afterwards since she not using oxygen. Ioffe used oxygen because had been coughing hard.

  Khalatian did not go beyond ABC and left expedition on 14 April because he found expedition climbing not something he liked, He left with Agarkova, who had gotten frostbitten fingers on a climb in the Alps just days before leaving for Himalayas; in the cold weather on Cho Oyu, her fingers were getting worse. Ioffe took over leadership in administrative sense, but such a small party did not need a leader really.


expid: CHOY97112
peakid: CHOY
year: 1997
route1: NW side
nation: Slovakia
leaders: Jiri Novak, Ivan Urbanovic
sponsor: Cho Oyu 1997
ascent1: 244,247
countries: Austria, Czech Republic, Italy
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1997-04-18
smtdate: 1997-05-06
smttime: 1100
campsites: BC(18/04,4900m),ABC(20/04,5600m),C1(22/04,6400m),C2(29/04,7000m),C3(05/05,7600m),Smt(06,08/05)
accidents: Urbanovic ill in throat (brought from home); frostbitten thumb of Strba
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C3 at under yellow band.

  Strba slipped 300m in descent from 7700m, went past C3 and had to climb back up to camp; lost glove and got frostbitten finger (may lose top of thumb). Nicco first person to summit on 6th and slept in ABC where reached at 6:00 pm. Slama was very slow and didn't expect changes of weather so quick and bad. Visability only 10 meters and not absolutely certain reached top. Nicco in clear weather saw Everest but others from this team in clouds on summit.


expid: CHOY97105
peakid: CHOY
year: 1997
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Oscar Cadiach
sponsor: Cho Expedition 1997
ascent1: 240
countries: Andorra, France
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1997-04-14
smtdate: 1997-05-02
smttime: 1800
campsites: BC(14/04,5200m),ABC(16/04,5700m),C1(24/04,6300m),C2(30/04,7000m),C3(01/05,7400m),Smt(02/05)
accidents: Serrano pulmonary edema and left expedition
achievment: 1st Andorran woman
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  Took time and manpower to rescue Basques who were badly frostbitten and then no time left for second summit bid; also not enough strength and started to become windy, but time factor was main reason for no second attempt.


expid: CHOY97107
peakid: CHOY
year: 1997
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Horst Kaluza
sponsor: International Cho Oyu Expedition 1997
ascent1: 239,241
countries: Austria
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1997-04-15
smtdate: 1997-05-02
smttime: 1400
termdate: 1997-05-10
campsites: BC(15/04,4900m),ABC(18/04,5300m),C1(20/04,6400m),C2(24/04,6800m),C3(01/05,7500m),Smt(02-03/05)
accidents: Goger and Chlastak some frostbite but will be OK
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C3 reached by Rockenbauer, Goger and Chlastak. On 2rd Rockenbauer up alone because other 2 not well acclimatized; he climbed alone and met on summit an Austrian in team member and others from Slovak team at 2:00 pm NST and down to C3.  

  3rd May Goger and Chlastak to top at 2:00 pm. Both days could see nothing because cloudy but know were on top because found pole and small cross. Rockenbauer to BC on 3rd while others 2 on 4th to C1 and BC 5th.

  Altitude sickness afflicted Ernst and Hoesle, who never got beyond ABC and left expedition after 1 week. Kaluza to C1 and Nutz to C1 and they got sick and retreated.


expid: CHOY97106
peakid: CHOY
year: 1997
route1: NW side
nation: Canada
leaders: Andrew McKinlay
sponsor: Saskachewan
ascent1: 246
countries: Australia, France, USA
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1997-04-14
smtdate: 1997-05-07
smttime: 1330
campsites: BC(14/04),ABC(17/04,5700m),C1(23/04,6400m),C2(29/04,7050m),C3(06/05,7350m),Smt(07/05)
accidents: Nothing
agency: High Ambition
routememo:
  1st summit bid was on 7th. Made another bid on 9th but didn't get above C3 because weather cold and windy. On 7th 3 members including McCormack left C3 at 7:00 am Chinese time (4:45 am NST). McCormack turned back because exhausted at 7800m and down to C2. Summit pairs 3:45 pm (Chinese time) in deep cloud but found poles and wooden cross. All members except BC mgr reached C3.


expid: CHOY97110
peakid: CHOY
year: 1997
route1: NW side
nation: Austria
leaders: Josef Inhoeger
sponsor: Salzburg Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 236,237,248
countries: Germany
approach: Lhasa->Shigatse->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1997-04-17
smtdate: 1997-04-30
smttime: 1130
termdate: 1997-05-15
accidents: Olschuetzer altitude sickness
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
campsites:
  BC(17/04,4850m),ABC(21/04,5700m),C1(24/04,6400m),C2(27/04,7040m),C3(03/05,7300m),Smt(30/04,02,12/05)

routememo:
  BC at the Chinese base camp
  C3 only for 2 people.

  Olschuetzer, Walter left BC on 25 April because of high altitude problems.

  Clear day he saw Everest, Makalu, Lhotse.

  Rainer reached summit at 11:30 am 
  Nikol & Inhoeger summit at 11:30 am
  Mayerhofer & Ortner summit at 11:45 am

  Nikol and Inhoeger climbed with 2 Sherpas from British expedition (the British did not reach the summit only to plateau). On this day 1 Austrian from IMC expedition was on top.

  First Nikol or Inhoeger made the way, then the Sherpas and the Austrian followed. On the summit was a pile of stones with katas, 100 cms before summiters were pitons and one hammer (25 years old) 40 cm high cross was put on the top by this team. 

  Did not see pole on the summit.

  Put sticks every 30 meters to find way back. Nikol and Inhoeger were on top in clouds but found cross erected by Rainer on 30 April.


expid: CHOY97109
peakid: CHOY
year: 1997
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Harald Popp
sponsor: Cho Oyu Expedition 1997
ascent1: 250
countries: Austria
bcdate: 1997-04-21
smtdate: 1997-05-14
termdate: 1997-05-17
campsites: BC(21/04,4900m),ABC(23/04,5700m),C1(26/04,6400m),C2(02/05,7000m),C3(13/05,7400m),Smt(14/05)
accidents: Franz finger badly frostbitten, left ABC on May 5; Fichtner and Meissnitzer mild frostbite
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  C1 at Tichy camp.

  The schedule was rearranged and left ABC on 17 May. Dolenga and others reached Base Camp on 15 May and did not have time to climb again.

  Summit: Cloudy day - saw cross put by the Austrians, saw an oxygen bottle on the plateau.

  Ang Tenzing reached a height of 7400m (C3)
  Took around 1 hour to reach summit from the hump.
  Dolenga did not go to the edge by 2 or 3 meters because it was too windy.

  C3 was 15 minutes below the yellow band. On 14th May, Dolenga, Meissnitzer and Popp left C3 for summit but only Dolenga reached top; Meissnitzer turned back at 7500m with mild frostbitten fingers, Popp at 7600m because his toes had lost feeling and he feared frostbite, Fichtner at 7800m with mildly frostbitten fingers.


expid: CHOY97102
peakid: CHOY
year: 1997
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Sandy Allan
sponsor: Ascent Cho Oyu
ascent1: 238
countries: Switzerland, USA
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1997-04-09
smtdate: 1997-05-02
campsites: BC(09/04,4815m),ABC(12/04,5700m),C1(16/04,6400m),C2(30/04,7000),C3(01/05,7600m),Smt(02/05)
accidents: Surchat frostnipped toe
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  This team went to top later than Americans (Scaturro team) because were a commercial team and wanted to be sure of acclimatization. 4 members (not Hall) and 2 Sherpas left C3 for top on 2 May with Dorje (his first 8000m) and Lhakpa Gyalzen (his first 8000m), but 2 turned back, Manley just above C3 and Surchat at 25,500 feet (very cold).

  US Team had to break trail above BC; yaks in snow up to 1 metre deep. 

  Sherpa summiters: 
    Dorje, 9 Jan 58, from Mamerku, Khumbu, 1st 8000er
    Lhakpa Gyalzen, 1961, from Chaurikharka, 1st 8000er


expid: CHOY97103
peakid: CHOY
year: 1997
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: David Hahn
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Cho Oyu Expedition 1997
ascent1: 249,251
countries: New Zealand, UK
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1997-04-09
smtdate: 1997-05-13
termdate: 1997-05-22
campsites: BC(09/04,4875m),ABC(15/04,5640m),C1(18/04,6300m),C2(24/04,7000m),C3(03/05,7300m),Smt(13,15/05)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  Could have established C3 and summited on April 25/26, but clients needed more time to acclimatize. Only one client (but 3 guides) reached summit.

  First attempt on summit was May 10 but there were high winds; reached 25,500 ft by Terry, Dawa Nuru, Richard and Fred (Sherpa without oxygen). 

  Next summit attempt by Kai, Shaun and Charles but couldn't make it on May 13. Kei Braun summited alone (only person to top on 13th).

  May 15 attempt by the 4 summiters. Between C2 and C3 and C1 and C2 climbers from many expeditions. Took 15 May party 45 minutes-1 hour from plateau to summit on 13th and 15th. All saw the cross stayed at the top for 1/2 hour-45 minutes. 10-15 minutes from the top was a silver sign post put by the Basques this year.

  Dixon and Smith were independent party above ABC with our food, tents, etc.


expid: CHOY97108
peakid: CHOY
year: 1997
route1: W Ridge-W Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Markus Walter
sponsor: Saxon Himalayan Expedition to Cho Oyu
ascent1: 245
bcdate: 1997-04-15
smtdate: 1997-05-06
smttime: 1500
campsites: BC(14/04,4900m),ABC(18/04,5300m),C1(21/04,6000m),C2(26/04,6800m),C3(02/05,7500m),Smt(06/05)
accidents: Koehler altitude sick and left early
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  On top on 6 May Walter and Wiegand 3:00 pm NST and Leupold at 5:00 pm and Leupold reached C3 tents 1 minute before dark; had reached C3 on 5 May in strong weather but 6 May clear morning but by 2:00 pm clouds came from east and south and whiteout at summit (found pole and cross) and Leupold saw Everest in clear weather having followed footprints all the way to pole and cross.


expid: CHOY97104
peakid: CHOY
year: 1997
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Pasquale Scaturro
sponsor: American Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 234,235
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1997-04-09
smtdate: 1997-04-27
termdate: 1997-05-08
campsites: BC(09/04,4815m),ABC(12/04,5700m),C1(17/04,6400m),C2(25/04,7000m),C3(26/04,7600m),Smt(27-28/04)
accidents: Minor frostbite only
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  Had to break trail for yaks to go above BC through snow 1-2 feet deep. 11 April made transit camp at 17,600 ft but dismantled it next day. 19th made camp 1st because of wind, snow and cold at 22,600 ft, carried to C2 on 20th and down to ABC for rest same day. Left ABC for top 24th: 8 members and 4 Sherpas: C1 that night; next day Johnson turned back not liking look of the weather while other 11 to C2; 26th 4 men and 1 Sherpa to C3: Beavon, Johnck, Bull and Scaturro and Kami Tenzing while Johnson up from C1 to C2. 27th summit reached in snow squall so couldn't see Everest but are certain reached highest point; down safely to various camps that night. 2nd summit team to top in clear weather till on top a cloud came along and obscured mountains to east (but not north and west); saw 1st team's crampon marks and pole they left.

  Took 15 May party 45 minutes to 1 hour from plateau to summit on 13th and 15th. All saw the cross, stayed at the top for 2 1/2 hours.

  10-15 minutes from top was a silver sign post put by [by Rainer on 30 April.]


expid: CHOY97114
peakid: CHOY
year: 1997
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Robert Rackl
sponsor: Amical Alpin Cho Oyu Expedition 1997
countries: Luxembourg
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1997-04-23
smtdate: 1997-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to bad weather, members tired, no time left
campsites: BC(23/04,4800m),ABC(26/04,5400m),C1(04/05,6300m),C2(12/05,6800m),xxx(13/05,7300m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at slightly lower than others camps which was too crowded.

  Sherpas established C3 at 7300m but did not sleep there and members did not go above C2. Too stormy ; waited 2 days in C2 and then descended. Members tired and storm still on.


expid: CHOY97113
peakid: CHOY
year: 1997
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Adolf Mezger
sponsor: Schwabian Cho Oyu
ascent1: 252
countries: Switzerland
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1997-04-20
smtdate: 1997-05-19
termdate: 1997-05-21
campsites: BC(20/04,4900m),ABC(22/04,5650m),C1(26/04,6000m),C2(29/04,6800m),C3(18/05,7350m),Smt(19/05)
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  ABC at Tichy site
  C1 (first time brought gear)
  C2 (first time brought gear).

  24 April all went to C1 and came back to ABC to sleep. 25 April again all except the three went to C1 carrying gear and came back to ABC to sleep. 26 April Mezger, Lipinski and Mayer went to C1 and slept there. On 27 April 2 fixed rope 50m long and between C1 and C2 then went back to ABC to sleep. On 28 April Boehl, Baumhauer, Fuchs, Hefti, Nierle, Werner went to C1 and slept day. On 29 April these six took gear to C2 and slept there. On 30 April came down to ABC. On 30 April all except 9 went to C1 and slept there. Next day all carried gear to C2 and slept there. May 2 Alder, Karle, Kugler, Lipinski, Luiz, Mayer, Teuchert carried gear to C3 and slept at C2. Then on May 30 all went to ABC. 

  On May 5 the six of 1st group and Huelle, Schlenker, Mueller went to C1 to sleep. May 6 the 9 headed for C2 then heard SOS from Spanish team at 7000m. Baumhauer, Boehl, Hefti, Nierle went to rescue them and brought them (4) to C1. Other expeditions brought them to ABC the same night. Some slept at C1 some at C2 that night. May 7 Hefti went C2 and slept there; Fuchs, Werner were already there. The other 6 went to ABC. On 8 May the 3 also went to ABC. 

  On 11 May Alder, Karle, Kugler, Lipinski, Luiz, Mayer, Mezger, Teuchert started from ABC to C1 enroute to summit. On 12 May slept at C2. Very stormy. On 13 May Karle, Luiz, Kugler went down to ABC the others slept at C2 because it was not possible to go up. It was more windy. 

  On 14 May the 5 also went to ABC. On 14 May Baumhauer, Boehl, Fuchs, Hefti, Huelle, Mueller, Nierle, Schlenker and Werner slept at C1. On 15 May all 9 went to C2. On 16 May all except Werner and Hefti went to ABC because it was too windy. The two tried to go to C3 but it was not possible and slept at Slovak's empty tent near 7000m. 

  On 16 May Luiz, Alder, Kugler, Teuchert started for C1; on 17 May they went to C2. On Werner and Hefti came down to ABC. On 17 May Mayer and Mezger and Ang Phintso went from ABC to C2. On 18 May Mayer, Mezger, Teuchert, Kugler and Ang Phintso went to C3 and Luiz and Alder went to ABC. On May 19 the five started at 5:30 am (China Time) for summit [successfully]. On 19 May slept at C3. On 20 May arrived at ABC. On 21 May left with the yaks which had come on May 20. The weather had cleared but no time for 2nd attempt.


expid: CHOY97115
peakid: CHOY
year: 1997
route1: N Ridge from W
nation: UK
leaders: Andrew Broom
sponsor: OTT (Out There Trekking) Cho Oyu Expedition - Group I
ascent1: 254
countries: Russia, USA
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1997-04-24
smtdate: 1997-05-21
smttime: 1230
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
campsites:
  BC(25/04,4900m),ABC(28/04,5650m),C1(05/05,6500m),Biv(18/05,7100m),Biv(19/05,7350m),Biv(20/05,7550m),Smt(21/05)

routememo:
  May 1 went up for reconnaissance. A few hours and back to ABC. May 4 Murrin, Bygrave, Hubbard, Newbigin, Pierson, Kotov, Mingma, Nima reached 6100m and all slept there except Kotov and Pierson who went to 6400m and slept there. May 5 just two reached C1. May 7 all went to ABC. Bygrave, Hubbard, Murrin decided to go to KTM. Newbigin decided to join other group. 

  May 8-10 rested. Nima Dorje wanted to join on May 11 and so Kotov, Pierson and Nima started but Nima Dorje reached 6400m, but the other two went to 6500m. May 12 Nima Dorje returned to ABC. May 12 and 13 slept at 6500m. Very windy could not leave the tent. May 14 weather forecast said it would be windy till 18 May so went to ABC on May 14. Stayed at ABC till May 16. On May 17 reached 6500m (C1). 18 May began to climb the ridge and slept at 7100m. The ridge was very narrow. May 19 continued to climb up 250m and reached 7350m. May 20 it was showing. 1 feet fresh snow. Georgi Kotov, guide on this route - went up 200m and traversed to 7550m. Slept there and on May 21 started at 5:30 am and reached summit at 12:30 pm and slept at 7550m. May 22 reached ABC. 

  Benegas from other OTT group became de-facto leader after Broom left expedition.


expid: CHOY97116
peakid: CHOY
year: 1997
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Willie Benegas
sponsor: OTT (Out There Trekking) Cho Oyu Expedition - Group II
ascent1: 253
countries: Australia, USA
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1997-04-25
smtdate: 1997-05-20
termdate: 1997-05-27
campsites: BC(25/04,4900m),ABC(28/04,5650m),C1(03/05,6350m),C2(09/05,7000m),C3(19/05,7550m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  1 May established C1. All went to C1. May 2 rest day. May 3 all slept at C1. May 4 all rest at C1. May 5 all carried gear to C2 except Rigby, Swinney and all slept at ABC. May 6-7 rest. May 8 all slept at C1. May 9 all slept at C1.

  May 10 all slept C2 except Swinney and Rigby. May 10 Pemba Sherpa and Mingma Sherpa established C3. May 11 all except the 2 slept at C2. May 12 all returned to ABC. May 13-16 rest. May 17 Arthur, Spencer and Stacey went to C1. May 18 the 3 went to C2. And Newbigin (joining from Group I), Robb, Swinney, Benegas went to C1. On 19 went to C3 the first group of [team] to summit (they started at 4 am). The 3 summiters (Arthur, Spencer and Stacey) went to C2. The summiters reached ABC on May 21. 

  On 20 Benegas reached C3. On May 21 started at 2 am, reached 8000m. It was too windy, so returned to C2. On May 22 Benegas returned to ABC.

  On 19 May Robb went to ABC, Newbigin and Swinney went to C2. On May 21 went to C3, on May 22 tried summit went up 50m was too windy and returned to ABC on same day.

  Cleaned mess left by Canadian, US, Catalan Basque expeditions: Burned everything. Was last expedition to leave Cho-Oyu.


expid: LHOT97102
peakid: LHOT
year: 1997
route1: W Face
nation: UK
leaders: Andy Clarke
sponsor: Ascent Lhotse Expedition
ascent1: 34th
countries: Finland, Mexico
bcdate: 1997-04-07
smtdate: 1997-05-23
smttime: 1455
termdate: 1997-05-30
othersmts: Attempted Makalu (MAKA-971-03) (only Hinkes joined other expedition)
campsites: BC(07/04,5350m),C1(14/04,6000m),C2(19/04,6400m),C3(30/04,7300m),C4(22/05,7850m),Smt(23/05)
accidents: Clarke stomach trouble; Wangchu claimed frostnip
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  C1 at tip of Icefall
  C2 in West ernCwm
  C4 next to Henry Todd's team.

  This first time Clarke climbed in Himalaya so when Duff died suddenly, Clarke had to take over without leadership experience in Himalayas but sirdar was good. 

  C4 only small platform space so shared tent with Todd's team and had to coordinate usage of it. Hinkes, who used this team's tents, oxygen, food and Sherpas (used oxygen from C3) and summited from C4 without staying at C4 on 23rd fixed only couple of ropes (of this team) while most ropes in couloir fixed by Russians though Hinkes will claim that he did it all.

  24th McDermott tried to make fast ascent from C2 without oxygen. Left C2 at 8:30 pm, reached C4 at 5:00 am, moved up again after drinking there and got to 8300m at 2:30 pm; turned back since was alone (had been climbing with Yates of Todd's team part of way from C4) and it was too late to continue up alone and without oxygen; slept 24th night at C3. 

  Wright wanted to make summit bid but on 26th snow started and McDermott with getting weak they turned back at bottom yellow band together. 

  Loredo early hours of 27th tried to summit from C3, reached C4 at 7:00 am, toes getting cold but climbed on high as 8000m before too cold and turned back; climbed without oxygen.

  Sherpa Wangchu/Ongchu, young man claiming 8000m experience/results that were not true, was heard wailing in his tent at night and seen limping at BC, claiming frostbite in toes, but he had none.


expid: LHOT97103
peakid: LHOT
year: 1997
route1: W Face
nation: Russia
leaders: Vladimir Bachkirov
sponsor: Russian Lhotse-Lhotse Shar Expedition
ascent1: 36th,37th
bcdate: 1997-04-10
smtdate: 1997-05-24
smttime: 1105
termdate: 1997-05-27
othersmts: Attempted Shanti Shikhar (SHAN-971-01)
campsites: BC(10/04,5350m),C1(14/04,6100m),C2(20/04,6400m),C3(26/04,7300m,C4(02/05,7700m),Smt(24,26/05)
accidents: 27 May Bachkirov collapsed (heart failure)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C2 in West Cwm
  C3 on West Face
  C4 on West Face.

  After C4 made on 2 May, back to BC because bad weather (very strong wind and very cold). Slept in C4 again 6 May; 7th May fixed route to 8000m. 8 May took more rope to end of fixed rope, wind and cold bad and down to BC same day. Another group in C4 10 May, tried go up on 11th nut too cold and down to BC. 12 May again in C4 and not above C4. 13th down to BC. Went up to camps often to check tents survival in winds and to fix route and carry gear for traverse. 15th down to Deboche to rest and wait for Bachkirov, who arrived there in good health 15th himself. Those from mountain stayed 1-2 days at Deboche before returning to BC. C4 next occupied 23 May by Cherny, Outechev and Zoev; 24th finished fixing rope and reached summit and back to C4. 26th they down to BC.

  26th eight remaining climbing members reached summit without oxygen. Left C4 together at 5:00 am and arrived at summit from 11:05 am to 6:00 pm (last one at 6:00 pm was Bogomolov, who had returned to C4 after his feet got cold, warmed them in tent and put on more clothes). It was thought six of these men would traverse to middle summit, but weather was very cold visability was bad so they did not try. In descent Sokolov was first to return to C4 (at 1:30 pm); last coming down were Bogomolov, who got to C4 at 5:00 am on 27th and Bachkirov who died enroute. When these two were so late coming down, 2 members went up to them with tea and oxygen and met them at 8200m at midnight and helped them descend. Bachkirov got to 8000m on his feet; from 8000m to 7900m he was pulled down the snow slope; at 7900m he had no pulse or any other sign of life. His body was tied to fixed rope and at 10:00 am on 27th 2 summiters returned to it and buried it in snow inside a sleeping bag. Climb finished. Bachkirov died because he was exhausted; he was perhaps sick (he had spoken of slight fever on 26th and already in C3 he had been breathing hard and was restless during this night in tent he shared with Sokolov). He had been to Everest summit with Indonesia expedition on 26 April, gone down to KTM on 4 May and stayed in KTM till about 10 May, returned to Khumbu by air, met his teammates at Deboche on 15th and returned to BC 17th May.

  Is traverse from Lhotse to Lhotse Shar possible? Savkov: "it is very, very, very, difficult" - very sharp ridge and quite steep.

  Sokolov: "Maybe" possible. He would like to attempt traverse from Lhotse Shar to middle summit because that section of ridge is not so sharp, not so steep steep and descent not so difficult. Would not try to go beyond middle summit to main summit.

  Summiters on 23 May:
    Alan Hinkes - 2:55 pm
    Michael Jorgensen (Todd Team) - 3:00 pm

  Summiters on 24 May:
    Outechev     - 3:05 pm
    Zoev         - 3:10 pm
    Cherny       - 3:25 pm

  Summiters on 26th May:
    Timofeev     - 11:05
    Sokolov      - 11:20
    Christine Boskoff - 12:00 
    Babanov      - 12:30
    Simone Moro and Anatoli Boukreev - 13:30 (independant pair)
    Koroteev     - 14:00 
    Foigt        - 14:10 
    Bachkirov    - 14:30 
    Perchin      - 14:40
    Bogomolov    - 18:00


expid: LHOT97105
peakid: LHOT
year: 1997
route1: W Face
nation: Kazakhstan
leaders: Anatoli Boukreev
sponsor: Independent party for Lhotse-Everest traverse
ascent1: 39th
countries: Italy
bcdate: 1997-05-18
smtdate: 1997-05-26
smttime: 1330
termdate: 1997-05-28
campsites: BC(18/05,5350m),C2(22/05,6400m),C3(24/05,7350m),Smt(26/05)
accidents: Nothing except Boukreev unknown infection
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C2 in West Cwm
  C3 on West Face.

  On 22 May Boukreev started up from BC with Moro and slept nights of 22nd and 23rd in C2; 24th to C3; 25th waited because some snowfall. 26th weather better; started up at 11:45 pm of 25th and Moro on top at 1:30 pm Boukreev joined him at top at 2:00 pm. Now clouds were forming and weather becoming unsettled in afternoon and Boukreev probably had infection in lungs; not in good health. Were equipped for traverse but Boukreev decided too risky for him to do it and Moro not interested in traversing solo. So boredom to C3 that night and BC on 27th. Moro had been climbing with Italian Lhotse expedition, before Boukreev arrived at BC from KTM after Everest ascent in April with Indonesians. Their plan had been to go to Lhotse summit via normal West Face route, traverse by shortest possible route to South Col, summit Everest and descend Everest via North Ridge if possible; would decide descent route via North or South when atop Everest. 

  Moro on Italian (Da Polenza) Lhotse permit and Henry Todd's Everest permit. Boukreev on Russian Lhotse, Todd's Everest South and Kazakh's Everest permit.


expid: NUPT97101
peakid: NUPT
year: 1997
route1: W Face of Lhotse
nation: Russia
leaders: Victor Kozlov
sponsor: Russian Nuptse Expedition
bcdate: 1997-04-11
smtdate: 1997-05-07
termdate: 1997-05-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7100 due to lack of manpower
campsites: BC(11/04,5350),C1(14/04,6100m),C2(20/04,6400m),C3(07-08/05,7100m),xxx(07,22/05,7100m)
accidents: Jidkov cerebral edema; Kozlov broke rib about 1 May
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Everest BC
  C1 at top of Khumbu Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm (same as Everest C2)
  C3 on Lhotse West face (near other's lower C2).

  Climbed at first with Russian Lhotse team. C2 made with tent pitched for C1 which no longer existed. Helped Lhotse expedition to carry supplies up mountain and after leader broke his ribs about 1 May, not enough manpower to attempt Nuptse (intented to climb N Face). Carried Lhotse's oxygen to C3 twice, and on 22 May to bring down the tent there. Later helped helped Lhotse team bring down their gear. Only 3 Nuptse climbers since after 1 May when Kozlov broke his rib at BC when he tripped over a rope in the dark.

  Team was actually on Lhotse only.


expid: LHOT97104
peakid: LHOT
year: 1997
route1: W Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Agostino Da Polenza
sponsor: Extreme Altitude Survival Test Lhotse 1997
ascent1: 40th,41th
countries: Andorra, France, Switzerland
bcdate: 1997-04-16
smtdate: 1997-05-27
smttime: 1330
termdate: 1997-05-29
campsites: BC(16/04,5350m),C1(19/04,6100m),C2(20/04,6400m),C3(22/04,7300m),C4(16/05,7550m),Smt(27-28/05)
accidents: Escoffier some slight heart problem.
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  C4 last tent on West Face just below yellow band.

  Never occupied South Col because too much wind at Col so lot was on West Face of Lhotse. Tried to make the 4th camp but winds above them back from there also on 12th May. Finally on 16th possible to establish 4th camp and stayed there for 4 nights and during this. After all testing finished then allowed to go to top, which 5 did without accident. 1 Sherpa fell 30m in crevasse in Icefall.

  27 May - Blanc to summit at 1:30 pm
  28 May - Panzeri brothers and Lafaille went to summit together - 
           reached top at 9:14 am and returned to BC at 6:30 pm same day.


expid: SHAR97101
peakid: SHAR
year: 1997
route1: S Ridge at start of Lhotse Shar SE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Alexandre Iakovenko
sponsor: Russian Shanti Shikhar Expedition 1997
bcdate: 1997-04-12
smtdate: 1997-04-25
termdate: 1997-04-28
termnote: Abandoned on 27 Apr due to snow and seracs and not enough rope
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (26 April by Cherny, Brink) and Lhotse (LHOT-971-03)
campsites: BC(12/04,5290m),C1(14/04,5700m),C2(22/04,6200m),xxx(25,27/04,6400m)
achievment: 1st attempt of mountains
agency: Asian Trekking
primid: LHOT97103
routememo:
  BC at point 5293m on National Geographic map ENE of Iceland Peak
  C1 on small South Ridge below point 6528m and east of 5901m at start of Lhotse Shar SE Ridge
  High point on small South Ridge.

  Had no time for acclimatization for alpine-style climb above C2. Had fixed 300m below C1 another 300m above C1; 200m more above C2 and needed 500m more. Bachkirov who had climbed Island Peak in January said Shanti Shikhar no problem. Just like Peak Lenin and team took only 500m rope with them. Had to buy more rope in Chhukung and still not enough. 700m above C2 easy walk on snow but below seracs and others difficulties made slow progress. This not a good route for descent from Lhotse Shar. Every day from 2:00 pm new snowfall for hours; morning clear but much avalanching in area.

  After climbing above finished, Baikovski, Koroteev and Cherny went to Lhotse for Lhotse-Lhotse Shar traverse (but Baikovski not on Lhotse permits and so may have problem going up from BC).

  Best route to Shanti is via Island Peak. Lhotse Shar ridge to 7100m and then either continue up ridge to Lhotse Shar's East Ridge or traverse east somewhere below it.


expid: EVER97102
peakid: EVER
year: 1997
route1: N Face (a rib to 7500m)-N Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Valeri Kouzin, Kazbek Khamistaev
sponsor: Russian Scientific Expedition to Everest 1997
ascent1: 266
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 1997-03-21
smtdate: 1997-05-24
termdate: 1997-05-27
accidents: Doctor altitude sickness & left early; Kabissov altitude sick and BC only
achievment: New North Face route attempted
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(21/03,5200m),ABC(27/03,5555m),IC(01/04,5800m),C1(03/04,6400m),C1B(18/04,6700m),C2(26/04,7100m),C3(22/05,7700m),C4(23/05,8300m),Smt(24/05)

routememo:
  ABC at 5555
  Int Camp at bottom of face
  C2 on North Face
  C3 on North Ridge.

  Yaks could go no higher than 5555m and this was first problem. Route on unclimbed ridge on North Face-Ridge was very difficult rock covered by hard ice which in turn covered by powder snow so difficult to fix rope but did fix 1350m C1 to C2 and 150m more till decided at 7500m to abandon this direct line and traverse to left to join classical route. C3 reached via traverse by 8 members but did not sleep in C3 but immediately descended. From C3 Zelenski and Sokolov only tried for summit because not enough food, oxygen gas and good weather for more 6 members descended via ascent route.

  On 15 May weather bad and all teams down. On 22 May Zelenski and Sokolov returned to C3 via North Face route where had all gear while Ang Rita via North Col, but Ang Rita immediately down again saying he was sick ("Ang Rita was no help on this climb").

  2 Russians made C4 23 May, summited 24th and slept C4. 25th to North Col in descent via normal route because too much snow and wind and bad visability to use face route.

  Ridge was 3rd ridge from left on North Face.


expid: EVER97108
peakid: EVER
year: 1997
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Kazakhstan
leaders: Ervand T. Ilyinski
sponsor: Kazakh Military Expedition to Everest
ascent1: 249,251,254,257
countries: Australia, Canada, Georgia, Russia
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 1997-04-05
smtdate: 1997-05-02
smttime: 1800
termdate: 1997-05-24
accidents: Frolov serious frostbite; Ovsharenko mild frostbite; 3 dead on summit attempt
achievment: 1st Kazakh woman to top
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(05/04,5200m),ABC(11/04,6450m),C1(12/04,7050m),C2(21/04,7800m),C3(01/05,8300m),Smt(02,07,20,22/05)

routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C2 slightly to right of ridge
  C3 on North face.

  2 May Souviga, Frolov, Molotov, Ovsharenko left C3 at 7:45 am (Chinese time) and all 4 reached summit at 6:00-6:30 pm in fog sometimes but no wind - in fog could could not find C3 and spent night at 8000-8100m in fog and dark without any biv gears: stopped descent 11:00 pm and tried to move snow to rest in (Frolov serious frostbite and Ovsharenko not serious). 3 May to C2 and 4 May to ABC (Frolov to KTM with Toumailis whose 3 Russian compatriots had died on 7 May). 

  7 May the group of 4 Russian members left C3 for top at 9:30 (except Toumailis who not feeling well enough for summit and went down to C1) - other 3 went up; Torochin at 2:00 pm turned back from about 8600m and fell about 300m from 8500m on ridge and body seen by Sherpas and later by Kazakhs; other 2 Russians reached summit at 6:00 pm, they reported by walkie-talkie and then disappeared; at about 8700m (10m apart) both bodies seen later (Chevtchenko in only T-shirt; Plotnikov lying on back on rucksack with hand on his face). 

  20 May from C3 up for attempt to go to top; 6 Kazakh members Grekov, Lavrov, Mouravev, Sobolev, Savina; at 3:25 pm other 4 and slept in C3 and all Ok. 

  On 22 May Evans up from C3 to top with Pepevnik of Croatian team.

  Evans: technical climbing above last camp very difficult especially after have slept as high as 8300m. Summited at 10:30 am NST after having left C3 at 4:15 am, on top in fine weather and with both he and Pepe down to C1 that night.

  Expedition climbed in groups of 4 (with 4 Russians in same group) or 3 in case of Canada-US-Australian but was one expedition under single leadership using some tents, food, etc.


expid: EVER97116
peakid: EVER
year: 1997
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Peter Kowalzik
sponsor: On Polish (Pawlowski) permit
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 1997-04-13
smtdate: 1997-05-08
termnote: Abandoned due to climber's disappearance
campsites: BC(13/04,5200m),ABC(6400m),C2(7700m),C3(07/05,8200m),xxx(08/05,8560m+)
accidents: Kowalzik (soloist) disappeared; Kowalzik not well
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  DeChoudens & Cagnin (French-Bulgaria expedition) - 14 May 97: 

  These two Frenchmen met Kowalzik at bottom of ladder on Second Step at 1:00 pm (NST) on 8 May as they were descending from summit and he was going up. They exchanged "congratulations' and "good luck." He said he was fine; he looked tired but ok - he was not seen again. If he reached top it would have been about 4:00 pm, when it was very windy with cloud cover on summits.


  Pawlowski - 27 May 97 

  (Pawlowski and Kowalzik shared same kitchen and Kowalzik was on permit with six members group organized by Pawlowski): 

  Kowalzik left C3 at 8200m about 4:00 am (NST) for summit - was not using oxygen and was not a fast climber. Also had not acclimatized enough: had been only once to 7700m+ to deposit gear in late April and back home to ABC. Next time he went up, reached C3 on 7 May and made bid for summit on 8th, then disappeared. Pawlowski waited for Kowalzik in Kowalzik's tent at 8200m on 8th, ready to go to top alone himself on 9th. In middle of night of 8/9 May, strong wind started blowing and it was impossible to go up or down on 9th till 1:30 pm, when Pawlowski went down (to 7700m). Kowalzik was not "an extreme climber" (was not top class).


  Brice (New Zealand, Japanese, etc expedition leader) - 9 June 97 

  Kowalzik was really not very well, had to go down to a village below BC to recover strength. When he was at ABC getting ready to start up for summit push, Brice, Whetu (Brice's deputy leader) and Price (his team's doctor and summiter with Brice) urged him not to go up because he didn't look well and Price's examination of him found infection in lower lung. Andy Evans (with Kazakh expedition) recognized Kowalzik's ice axe below Second Step and saw a body not far away; whose body, don't know. Evans didn't try to identify it (Evans summited on 22 May).


expid: EVER97117
peakid: EVER
year: 1997
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Ryszard Pawlowski
sponsor: Patagonia Mountain Agency (PMA) International Everest Expedition 1997
countries: Germany, Portugal, USA
bcdate: 1997-04-13
smtdate: 1997-05-21
termdate: 1997-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 8110m due to lack of supplies and leadership
campsites: BC(13/04,5200m),ABC(16/04,6400m),C1(24/04,7000m),C2(30/04,7100m),C3(21/05,8100m),xxx(21/05,8100m)
accidents: Plywacz stomach trouble and headache
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C2 in other's tent
  C3 by Garcia's and Debrouwer's tent.

  Tent for C2 was destroyed by wind so Anna slept in Indonesian tent on 7 May while Piotr had slept in Brice tent on 30 April. With strong winds, no Sherpas, members had to carry gear several times as replacements. They were not really a coordinated team with a "leader." Pawlowski was with Indonesians and no one served as leader-coordinator. Had agreement that could use Indonesian tents. Plywacz and Jakubczyk returned to KTM on 16 May, Czerwinska and Schleypen on 21 May, Snopczynski and Garcia on 25 May (with Pawlowski).

  Garcia and Debrouwers were only climbers of this "group" to go above 8000m (except Kowalzik and advisor Pawlowski). They went to 8100m and slept in Russell Brice tent on 21 May and down to ABC on 23rd because hadn't enough food and gas; felt not so strong probably (climbed slowly on 21st). Garcia took oxygen to C3 but did not use it.

  Garcia: I expected Ryszard to be our leader but he was brought by the Indonesians. Had no idea this would be a "cocktail expedition," i.e., a leaderless group of people who didn't know each other. Ryszard Pawlowski thought he could handle both expeditions but couldn't - was too exhausted to handle this group. Garcia didn't realize so many people would be using the same kitchen and kitchen staff; was supposed to be a team of 4-6 Poles, Schleypen and Garcia, but found others also on same permit. Poles not young and Schleypen was 60. Poles and Schleypen were waiting for Pawlowski's instructions/decisions and said they couldn't climb high without Sherpas to carry their oxygen. Garcia found independent climber Debrouwer was same age group as he joined up with him.


expid: EVER97114
peakid: EVER
year: 1997
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Antoine de Choudens
sponsor: French-Bulgarian Everest Expedition
ascent1: 252,253
countries: Bulgaria
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 1997-04-09
smtdate: 1997-05-08
smttime: 1030
termdate: 1997-05-12
campsites: BC(09/04,5200m),ABC(14/04,6450m),C1(26/04,7066m),C2(07/05,7850m),C3(19/05,8200m),Smt(08,20/05)
accidents: Cook pulmonary edema at BC & left early
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C2 at North Col.

  De Choudens, Cagnin and Sherpa Ang Phurba left C2 for summit at 11:00 pm of 7 May. Sherpa turned back at about 8600m because tired and had trouble with technical problem between First and Second Steps. 2 French reached top 8 May 10 at 10:30 am NST, first people on summit that day. Had put tent at C2 on 27 April but immediately down to BC for rest. 8 May summiters reached ABC safely but very tired and at 7800m wind and snow blew up; 7:00 pm in ABC. Cagnin left his son's baby shoes on summit. Cagnin used oxygen from 8700m to top and down to 8650m.

  Vasilev and Van Waes moved up to C2 on 18th. 19th Van Waes descended but Vasilev made C3 at 8200m alone and next day left C3 at 7:00 am and to summit alone at 1:30 pm; he was 300-400m behind a group of Russians or Kazakhs, who were still on top when he arrived in fine weather.


expid: EVER97110
peakid: EVER
year: 1997
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Everest Expedition 1997
ascent1: 271
countries: Belgium, Canada, France, Japan, Netherlands, UK, USA
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 1997-04-06
smtdate: 1997-05-29
smttime: 1145
accidents: Tsuzuki edema of entire body (except head); nothing else serious
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(06/04,5200m),IC(13/04,5800m),ABC(14/04,6400m),C1(21/04,7000m),C2(26/04,7500m),C3(25/05,7900m),C4(26/05,8300m),Smt(29/05)

routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C2 on North Ridge snow slope
  C3 on North Ridge just before traverse in protected place
  C4 on North Face.
  High point at North Face below North Ridge.

  C3 not slept in till 25 May despite having put equipment there on 27 April: winds too strong - everyone down to BC and ABC. 27 May Blackmore, Tsuzuki, Price, Brice and Karsang (Ang Rita's son) from C4 to 8400m. Tsuzuki technically unable to cope with snow on rock, so Price told her to descend and he went down with her. Brice, Blackmore and Karsang on up for another hour or so looking for fixed ropes but couldn't find them under snow and turned back at no higher than 8450m. 

  28 May Brice up alone to fix new ropes and find old ones. 29th Brice and Price to top: left C4 at 3:00 am and reached summit Brice at 11:45 am and Price at noon (Tibetans from Da Chimi team ahead left later from C4, caught up with Brice and briefly went ahead: on summit Brice 11:45; 11:55 one Tibetan; Price at 12:10 pm, 2 Tibetans together 12:15 pm - all times NST). 

  30th Rippel and Okura got top of Second Step (8700m) and turned back because of wind. 

  1st June Whetu and De Boer got to bottom of 1st Step (8400m) and stopped by wind; climb finished.

  ** Tsuzuki might have been afflicted on 27th; 28th descended only to C1 and by 30th May, when Brice reached ABC and saw her, her entire body including arms and legs greatly smaller; Brice says this happens to women, even trekkers.


expid: EVER97124
peakid: EVER
year: 1997
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Croatia
leaders: Darko Berljak
sponsor: Croatian International Everest Expedition
ascent1: 258,265
countries: Bosnia-Herzegovina, Germany, Slovenia
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 1997-04-19
smtdate: 1997-05-22
smttime: 1100
termdate: 1997-05-30
campsites: BC(19/04,5200m),ABC(27/04,6460m),C1(01/05,7060m),C2(07/05,7800m),C3(21/05,8300m),Smt(22-23/05)
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col.

  Lost 4 tents to wind with all equipment inside blown away (2 in C2 between 10 & 20 May with 2 others inside to be used for C3).

  21st May Pepevnik and Da Nima Sherpa from C2 to C3 while Kozjek, Stiller and another Sherpa from ABC to C1. Another member with Pepevnik had turned back at 8100m (very cold).

  22nd May Kozjek, Stiller and their Sherpa from C1 to C3. Sherpa dumped his load and descended. Da Nima down also while Pepevnik up to summit. Pepevnik left C3 at 3:00 am NST and reached top with Andy Evans (of Kazakh expedition) at 11:00 am.

  23rd May Kozjek and Stiller from C3 at 5:00 am both without oxygen. At 11:00 am Stiller stopped at top of Second Step, where Kozjek had waited for him; he had had trouble with one crampon and was now exhausted so he returned to C3. Kozjek continued to summit alone and reached it at 1:40 pm and returned to C3 at 7:00 pm. While Kozjek and Stiller were climbing above C3 and it was empty, people from Brice's expedition arrived and set up their tents, when 3rd summit team of Petrin and Tenzing Sherpa arrived at C3 for their summit bid next day, they found all 4 sets of oxygen masks and regulators had been stolen. So because of lack of oxygen equipment, the need to help Stiller (who was now blind from apparent retinal hemorrhages) descending and fact weather was changing, all in C3 went down on 24th and no further summit bids.

accidents:
  Pepevnik 6 hrs retinal hemorrhage 1 eye; Stiller same problem 2 eyes; Tomazin serious pulmonary edema at Col and put on oxygen in bag and drugs; 2 less serious starting edema


expid: EVER97103
peakid: EVER
year: 1997
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Indonesia
leaders: Edhie Wibowo
sponsor: Indonesian Everest Expedition 1997 (North)
countries: Poland
bcdate: 1997-03-25
smtdate: 1997-05-08
termdate: 1997-05-12
termnote: Abandoned at 8600m due to frostbite
othersmts: Climbed Everest S side (EVER-971-01)
campsites: BC(25/03,5200m),ABC(29/03,6500m),C1(07/04,7100m),C2(12/04,7800m),C3(24/04,8300m),xxx(08/05,8600m)
accidents: Sudarto and Rudi altitude sickness and left BC 2nd April; Rudi also had frostbite
agency: Asian Trekking
primid: EVER97101
routememo:
  Octavianus - 13 May 97

  Indonesian Everest - North Side

  Team rested at BC during bad weather period till 16 April when started up again and took loads to C3 site about 24 April and down to C2 and next day to BC for 3 days rest. Again started up 28 April for summit attack and arrive C3 7 May and slept there. 3:00 am NST of 8 May left for top and reached 8600m 7:00 am. All 3 members starting to get frostbitten toes so down and "this was luck" for us because that afternoon (2:00 pm) storm came with wind and snow with fatal results for other teams. Difficult for members to return to C3 because of condition of their toes; arrived C3 at 11:00 am and already very windy. In C3 Sherpas gave massage care to them (including oxygen for one man) for 2 hrs and slept in C2. 9 May to ABC to sleep. Now no time for summit bid and none others have enough altitude experience to make out attempt so climb finished.

  * With Sunardi at 8600m was Dawa Tashi (Phurba Tashi), Tsewang Dorje (Ang Rita's son) and Phunchu & Zangbu and Pawlowski) - (8600m reached - others to 8550-8570m).


expid: EVER97123
peakid: EVER
year: 1997
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Pakistan
leaders: Nazir Sabir
sponsor: Pakistan Everest Expedition
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 1997-04-17
smtdate: 1997-05-30
termdate: 1997-06-16
termnote: Abandoned at 8560m due to winds
campsites: BC(17/04,5200m),C1(23/04,6450m),C2(05/05,7060m),C3(27/05,7680m),C4(28/05,8300m),xxx(30/05,8560m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at road head
  C1 highest of this season's teams
  C2 at North Col
  C3 on North Ridge
  C4 on North Face
  High point below 2nd Step.

  1st summit bid from C4 by 6 members Mohammad Sher Khan, Meharban Shah, Mohammad Ibrihim, Nazir Sabir, Rajab Shah, Rozi on 30 May and reached 40m below Second Step because very strong wind and at 1:30 pm turned back. Had started at 7:00 am, too late really but this had been advice of Pawlowski. Were worried about boots that were not good enough for extreme cold - slowed also by expectation to use other's fixed ropes which turned out to be in bad condition. Winds began blowing at 11:30 am, winds most terrible in Sher Khan's long experience. In Karakoram don't have such winds for more than a day at a time. Retreated to C4 where 3 stayed for another try. Meharban Khan, Nazir Sabir, Rajab Shah with food to come up on 31st and go to top on 1 June. But 30th night winds were ever much worse and had to go down to ABC/C1. 

  Weather now turned excellent with winds dropped. On 5 June same six members made ascent C1 to C3 for another summit bid but forced to stay in C3 because of wind and could hardly "escape" to C1 on 7th. Muhammad Ibrahim blown off his feet and knee injured slightly. 

  On 10th June left C1 to C3 (same six members) and again winds forced to stay in C3 for an extra day; 12th to C4 and 13th left 3:00 am for top and on top of 1st Step 4 members (except Mohammed Sher Khan & Nazir Sabir who were behind). Could see at 8:00 am winds were fierce and Nazir Sabir called off bid. Climb finished and all down to C1 that day.

  Pakistanis had expected to climb with Tibetans as joint expedition but Tibetans climbed as entirely separate team with own supplies, camps and high altitude porters (who carried for Pakistanis to North Col once and joined Tibetans members in helping Pakistanis clear North Col camp at end of climb); so on return form for Tibetans team.


expid: EVER97112
peakid: EVER
year: 1997
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Da Chimi
sponsor: Tibetans to Everest
ascent1: 272
approach: From Lhasa
bcdate: 1997-04-07
smtdate: 1997-05-29
smttime: 1155
termdate: 1997-06-16
campsites: BC(07/04,5200m),ABC(6450m),C1(7060m),C2(27/05,7680m),C3(28/05,8300m),Smt(29/05)
agency: Tibet Mountaineering Assoc.
routememo:
  BC road head
  C1 at North Col
  C2 on North Ridge
  C3 on North Face.

  Were supposed to be members of joint Pakistani-Chinese expedition but were entirely separate team above BC. Climbed separately, had their own Tibetan porters who carried to North Col, own food, own tents and all other gear. Pitched their own camps at same site as next to Pakistani camps (Pakistanis provided BC tents). Moved separately presumably because of communications problem since none of Tibetans spoke English. Left last camp for summit on 29th with no discussion with Pakistanis about their plan; left camp very easily in morning, well before Pakistanis. 

  Tibetan's 2 high altitude porters carried loads to Col for Paks once and they and Tibetan members helped clear away Col camp. Tibetan members waited at BC for Paks to finish their climb.


expid: EVER97128
peakid: EVER
year: 1997
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Brazil
leaders: Paulo Coelho
bcdate: 1997-05-02
smtdate: 1997-05-23
termdate: 1997-05-26
termnote: Abandoned on 25 May due to bad weather and lack of time
othersmts: Attempted Xixabangma
campsites: BC(02/05,5200m),ABC(05/05,6400m),C1(11/05,7000m),C2(22/05,7800m),C3(23/05,8150m),xxx(23/05,8150m)
agency: None
routememo:
  C1 at North Col.

  Went to Xixa first to acclimatize; got to highest camp only because were first team to arrive. Had no cook or porters, "no help to open the way on the mountain" so reached about 7000m on 24 April. 1st week mountain was only for up, 2nd week Italian arrived. Everest made first carry to North Col on 8 May; slept at Col 2 nights hoping to go up but down on 13th with all others on Col because of strong winds; down to BC after 2 days because winds continued. 

  18 May to ABC; 20th to North Col, 22nd to C2. 23rd to about 8150m with tent but no sleeping bags, to eat and drink and go on for summit, but snow and wind came in afternoon and at midnight, when waited to start up, saw clouds and snow started falling so returned on am 24th after brief wait for weather to improve and slept at North Col, where snowed all night. 25th to ABC and climb finished because no more time.

  Both members did all climbing together; had their one permit for Xixa and Everest.


expid: EVER97119
peakid: EVER
year: 1997
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Pascal Debrouwer
sponsor: On Polish (Pawlowski) permit
bcdate: 1997-04-13
smtdate: 1997-05-03
termdate: 1997-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 8200m on 21 May due to lost (stolen) supplies
campsites: BC(13/04,5200m),BC(16/04,5800m),ABC(17/04,6400m),C1(29/04,7066m),xxx(03,21/05,8200m)
accidents: Nothing except throat infection at beginning
agency: Potala Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  High point on North Face.

  21st down to 5800m and BC on 22nd - very sick with throat infection. Arrived ABC 26 April, 27th put tent at North Col, 29th to C1 at Col to sleep. 30th to ABC. 2nd May to C1. 3rd May made deposit at 8200m (gear and tent) and back to North Col. 4th to BC to rest for summit push. 9 May to ABC, 11th to Garcia and Jean Christophe Van Waes of French-Buglarian team. 12th tried to go up but couldn't get above Col because wind too strong to breathe so down BC (Garcia and Debrouwer) on 12th. Up from BC together 19th to ABC, 20th Debrouwer from ABC at 12:00 noon NST to try for summit in less than 24 hours while Garcia and W. Studer left ABC at 10:00 am to go to col for drink and to C2 at 7800m. Debrouwer arrived Col at 3:00 pm; 5:30 again up to 7500m where met Studer in descent who reported very strong wind at C2 so Debrouwer back with Studer to North Col. 21st Debrouwer up again at 12:00 noon at 7400m met Garcia descending but now turned up with Debrouwer; at 7:00 pm are at 7500m for brief stop in dark (wind had blown away snow so slow progress on bare rock) and reached Debrouwer's deposit at 8200m at 6:30 pm; his deposit gone though had been placed between rocks protected from wind (stolen, he is sure) so both down since had no liquid for summit push. 23rd their yaks at ABC so climb finished.

  Was on Polish (Pawlowski) permit but climbed independently or with Garcia of that group.


expid: EVER97125
peakid: EVER
year: 1997
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Dong-Yeon
sponsor: 1997 Korean Everest Expedition
ascent1: 250
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 1997-03-28
smtdate: 1997-05-07
smttime: 1455
accidents: Mingma Tamang slipped at 8500m and fell 2500m body not found
agency: Windhorse Trekking
campsites:
  BC(28/03,5200m),C1(04/04,6000m),C2(06/04,6400m),C3(12/04,7010),C4(18/04,7800m),C5(26/04,8300m),Smt(07/05)

routememo:
  C2 made this ABC
  C3 bad weather
  C4 bad weather.

  Did not climb Messner route as planned because it was too windy.

  At 7800m crossed to Messner route and traversed 3000m and turned back to C3. Then climbed North Ridge.

  On May 7 (2 Koreans and 2 Tamangs) started from C5 and reached 8700-8800m. 2 felt very tired (Mingmar Tamang & Lee Hong-Kil) and came down and at 8500m Mingmar Tamang slipped. He was using an old rope (there are around 6-7 fixed ropes) which snapped. He fell from below 2nd Step (body not found). His oxygen bottle exploded and Russians saw the body falling (Lee Hong-Kil returned to C5). The two summiters continued. Lee Hong-Kil was behind and above he saw Mingmar fall down waited for half an hour. Mingmar fell down about 2500m. At base camp made makeshift Stupa and wrote his name, dates of birth and death.

  If there had been no accident had planned to make 3 attempts to summit.

  Altitudes reached C4 - Mingmar Sherpa, Arjun Tamang
                    C5 - Pasang Tamang

  * Lee Hong-Kil and Lee In tried Messner route for 300m on 10 or 11 April then joined normal route.


expid: EVER97120
peakid: EVER
year: 1997
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Wilfried Studer
sponsor: On Polish (Pawlowski) permit
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 1997-04-13
smtdate: 1997-05-20
termnote: Abandoned on 20 May due to strong winds
campsites: BC(13/04,5200m),ABC(6300m),C1(07/05,7000m),xxx(20/05,7800m)
accidents: None
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Were on Polish (Pawlowski) permit but climbed independently on sometimes with Reinhard Patscheider, Italian, on the independent climber on same permit, until left early. Two Studers reached 7100m on 8 May with Patscheider. Wilfried climbed alone to 7800m as on 20 May and then abandoned climb because wind was too strong.


expid: EVER97115
peakid: EVER
year: 1997
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Guy Cotter
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Everest Expedition 1997
ascent1: 261
countries: Australia, Finland, Spain, USA
bcdate: 1997-04-09
smtdate: 1997-05-23
smttime: 0650
termdate: 1997-05-28
campsites: BC(09/04,5300m),C1(12/04,6100m),C2(16/04,6500m),C3(18/04,7400m),C4(22/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
accidents: Nothing except Carter's serious throat problem
achievment: 1st grandson of a summiter
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  First summit push was the successful push of 22-23 May. Had excellent weather forecasting from British office via satellite telephone calls so waited for good weather. Went to C2 on 4 May when forecasts said might be good period and stayed 3 nights (Viesturs 3 more nights), but winds got very bad (wind blew snow up SW Face). Left BC 19th, 1 day rest at C2, 21st to C3, 22nd to col and 23rd top. Left C4 at 10:00 pm on 22nd (sneaked out of camp to get ahead of 50 others at Col that day/night). On 19th nine people left BC but two Sherpas were intended as backup at Col, not summiters and stopped at Col. On way 1 km from South Summit Carter feeling ill and this became somewhat concern on return to Col 11:50 am (throat problem and Viesturs took down to C3 in 5 hours; Carter could barely breathe because clogging phalegm; slowly got better with heavy flow of oxygen for next couple of days and almost choked; a lot of his problem was fear).

  All of this team's summiters were on top between 6:50 and 7:10 am except Gustafsson (without any oxygen) at 8:10 am.

  Tashi Tenzing: as summit party reached top, full moon was setting and sun was rising: "two big orange ballons." It was Buddha's birthday and Tenzing left a six-inch bronze statue of Buddha on summit to give message of peace and compassion from top of world to everyone. He is sixth member of Tenzing Norgay's family to reach summit:

    Tenzing Norgay, 5/53
    Nawang Gambu, 5/63 and 5/65
    Dorjee Lhatoo, 5/84 (husband of Gambu's sister)
    Lobsang Tshering, 5/93 (died in descent)
    Jamling Tenzing, 5/96


  Wed 14 May 1997 from Guy Cotter

  Guy mentioned yesterday that they hope to start moving up the mountain in a couple of days when they have an indication that the weather is going to improve and how invaluable the weather reporting system has been this year. Unbelievable he sounded in good form and there was no hint that the long wait in base camp was wearing him/them down. He said they did not want to go down to Pheriche for any further rest for fear of catching any infection!


  Wed 7 May 1997

  After receiving a weather forecast at Everest Base Camp described as horrible for the next few days, Guy and Ed have made the decision to descend back to BC and all 5 on the AC team made it safely back there today. The next opening in the weather is not forecast until after 12 May so its back to the waiting game again.

  Guy reported in today from BC that this really is the option for them at the moment to be resting up for them at the moment to be resting up for the next summit attempt at BC, he and the others are in very good spirits and are prepared to be patient with the weather which looks like it is going to be abomniable for a while yet. Other teams at BC are now also ready to summit but they are getting impatient, Guy stated that everyone seems to be following the moves of the Adventure Consultants team (other teams now descending from C2) hence he and Ed feel a bit like the Pied Piperee!

  The weather forecasts are proving very valuable because unlike in previous years where a date was set and resources like oxygen and strength reserves were used while getting into position for a pre-determined date, they can now sit patiently until the best weather window is forecast and then move for the summit slopes with the best chance of succeeding. There is considerable concern about the number of teams who could try and summit on the same day next week, but due to the small strong team raring to go under the Adventure Consultants.


expid: EVER97104
peakid: EVER
year: 1997
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Malaysia
leaders: Nor Ramlle Sulaiman
sponsor: Malaysian Everest 1997
ascent1: 264
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1997-03-26
smtdate: 1997-05-23
smttime: 1155
termdate: 1997-05-27
campsites: BC(26/03,5400m),C1(13/04,6100m),C2(14/04,6500m),C3(28/04,7500m),C4(22/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
accidents: Nima Rinzi fatal fall on May 6
achievment: 1st Malaysian ascent
agency: Amtrek
routememo:
  Nima Rinji was taking loads from C2 to C4. While returning he slipped 600m below. But don't know exactly where. He was between Jit Bahadur (front) and Gombu (behind). Nobody saw him slip.
       
  First attempt on summit on May 20 by Munisamy, Nagappan, Choong and Hassan, but only reached C3 because of strong wind. Then came back BC. 

  [2nd attempt on] May 18 moved to C3. May 22 moved to C4 and left for summit at 11 pm and summitted the next day.

  All the time in between the camps was spent waiting for the weather to clear.

  Nima Rinzi, who died was 30 years old, from Lokhim, Solu had never summited any 8000er.

  Na Temba, from Sikli near Kharikhola, 41, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X1
  Dawa Temba, from Thami, 31 years, Everest X2
  Gyalzen, from Loding, 35, Everest X1, Annapurna I once
  Ang Phuri Gyalzen, 30, from Sikli near Kharikhola, 1st 8000m summit
  Fura Dorje, 30, from Sotano, Solu, 1st 8000m summit


expid: EVER97127
peakid: EVER
year: 1997
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Bhakta Bahadur Thakuri
sponsor: Mt. Everest Expedition
ascent1: 256,267
bcdate: 1997-05-01
smtdate: 1997-05-21
smttime: 1300
termdate: 1997-05-27
campsites: BC(01/05,5350m),C2(06/05,6500m),C4(13/05,7900m),Smt(21,25/05)
achievment: 1st Everest expedition backed by a political party
agency: Sita Chuchura Treks
routememo:
  C1 at depot only (not slept in)
  C2 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  14 May made summit attempt but very windy and turned back at 8100m (they were Danuri, Nanda Prasad) returned to BC same day. 18 May Danuri and Nanda Prasad leave BC to C2, 19th to C4, 20th 11:00 pm left C4 and arrived 500m higher, very foggy and windy and back to C4. 21st May 1:00 am Danuri continued alone, caught up with Tinker's OTT summit party and they to top together; Danuri and Nanda Prasad slept at C4 that night and reached BC 23rd. 

  Kami Rita made his summit bid on 25th without any other member of this expedition [but see Todd Burleson/US expedition on return form]. Kami Rita claims fastest ascent from Col to summit.

  Team organizers said Kami Rita was initially employed as high-altitude porter by Burleson's expedition but on 25 April took leave from US expedition to join Nepalese expedition as a member. This statement made at press conference 6/6/97, but Burleson's expedition insists he was always with their expedition as was Danuri.

  Kami Rita arrived at C4 on 23rd, left camp for summit bid at midnight, bad winds very strong and he turned back after ascending 200m and returned to C4 on 24th morning. 24th 11:00 pm again left C4 for summit and succeeded at 6:15 am on 25th.


expid: EVER97113
peakid: EVER
year: 1997
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: David Breashears
sponsor: Nova Everest to Everest
ascent1: 259
bcdate: 1997-04-07
smtdate: 1997-05-23
termdate: 1997-05-27
campsites: BC(07/04),C1(19/04,6100m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(27/04,7300m),C4(22/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  C2 at Cwm
  C4 at Col.

  Route was in good shape and on 23rd May snow was "very very nice - but conditions I've never seen" (Athans) hard packed snow. Were ready to go on May 5 as were many others waiting for winds to die down. Peter and David filmed entire climb from BC to top and did first neural behaviour on summit (pulse, oxygen absorption of blood); psychometric tests (short-term memory, etc.). Removed Bruce Herrod's body from bottom of Hillary Step and sent it down SW Face (now is in crevasse). 

  Sherpas summiters: 
    Jangbu Sherpa, summited Everest 23 May 96
    Dorje Sherpa, summited Everest 25 May 96
    Kami Sherpa, not atop Everest before this his 1st 8000m, 31, from Kerung


expid: EVER97107
peakid: EVER
year: 1997
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Jonathan Tinker
sponsor: OTT (Out There Trekking) Everest Expedition
ascent1: 255,262
countries: Iceland, Mexico
bcdate: 1997-04-03
smtdate: 1997-05-21
smttime: 1300
campsites: BC(03/04,5350m),ABC(06/04,6100m),C1(09/04,6400m),C2(15/04,7300m),C3(20/05,7900m),Smt(21,23/05)
accidents: Rodriguez frostbitten fingers, toes and nose
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  Really good spirit at BC, lots of cooperation and determined to profit by last years disaster. 21st was windy and summitters had tough time but 23rd lovely day. 21 May summitters left Col 11:15 pm on 20th and were on summit at 1:00 pm on 21st. 

  Next summit team left Col at 11:00 pm on 22nd and were on top at 9:30 am (Warham), 10:00 (Lhakpa Gelu), 10:15 (Blakeley) 11:00 Da Tenzi (who waited for Rodriguez) and 2:00 pm (Rodriguez). Rodriguez collapsed near South Summit and Da Tenzi unable to get him down because Rodriguez unable to move, so Da Tenzi went down to Col alone. Rodriguez eventually got up and began halting descent to 8500m, where stopped when head lamp not working; stayed in unprepared biv till daylight, then resumed descent; was seen by Sherpas at Col who went up to help him and he managed to get down the mountain on his own feet with their help, oxygen at 4 litres/min all the way to BC and help from OTT members, and from Jamie Clarke of Canadian teams down Lhotse Face. Rodriguez helicoptered from BC on 26 May with frostbitten toes, fingers and nose but all expected to heal.

  For Babu Chiri this was his 7th ascent, Dawa's 2nd, Lhakpa Gelu 4th.


expid: EVER97121
peakid: EVER
year: 1997
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Todd Burleson
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Everest Expedition 1997
ascent1: 268
countries: UK
bcdate: 1997-04-14
smtdate: 1997-05-25
smttime: 0615
termdate: 1997-05-27
campsites: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(20/04,6000m),C2(21/04,6400m),C3(27/04,7200m),C4(23/05,7900m),Smt(25/05)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Buckland was client of Simonson with Wilson as 2nd guides Corfield was Burleson's client, GPS (Global Position Survey) system for Brad Washburn's project was Berg's "client." Were a cohesive team who climbed together. 24 May 1st summit bid made by all members except Buckland (who had left BC 8 May for home because he felt he had no chance to get above C3, which he had reached) and 8 Sherpas; got to 8200m at 2:00 am of 24th and returned to South Col because weather not good (cloud and wind) and decided to save themselves for better day. All left C4 at 11:30 pm (with one more Sherpa) for 2nd summit bid, Berg leading with 4 Sherpas and reached top at 6:15 am 25th May: 2 of these Sherpas had GPS equipment while one other GPS Sherpa got to top, 2 other Sherpas at 7:00 but Berg and his 4 Sherpas had started descent and met at South Summit but Berg had cancelled GPS installation. Berg party at Col 10:00 am and 2 other Sherpas at 12:30 pm; Tenzing Nuru went missing (last man descending): not seen by other 2 below South Summit and vanished in low visability and high wind. Wilson and Simonson turned back together just before arrival South Summit because winds getting strong and visibility poor and back to South Col except Simonson and Burleson down to C2. Burleson and Corfield had been with Wilson and Simonson and continued to South Summit and back for same reasons. Climb ended. Berg and Wilson Sherpas stayed at C4 longer than others to watch for descent of Tenzing Nuru but he not seen (probably fell down East Face from South Summit).

  Berg abandoned GPS installation because bad visibility, high winds, not willing to wait for 3rd load of GPS gear to arrive (was not sure it was actually going to arrive at all). Would have taken 2-3 hours to do installation of 2 GPS systems with one antenna standing on top of snow and other antenna anchored on bed rock with drill (half hour to do this job) and producing data from 2 computers he would connect to antennas (and take down with him).

  Sherpa Summiters:
   Pemba Tenzing, 31, Shibuche, Solu, Everest 1996 with South African expedition
   Ang Pasang 31, Pangboche, Everest 1993 spring with British expedition
   Tenzing Nuru, about 30, Yilajung (near Thami) - Everest 95 Spring with
      Taiwanese expedition
   Kami Rita (aka Topke), Yilajung, 28, Everest 1994 spr with US expedition
      (summited Spr 1997 as member of Nepalese expedition)
   Lhakpa Rita, 30, Thami, Everest 3 times before
   Mingma Tshering, 28, Thami, this his 1st 8000m summit
   Nima Tashi, 36, Pangboche, Everest 1988 and 1990


  Lhakpa Rita 11 June 1997 (Expedition sirdar): Lhakpa and Tenzing were descending from summit together till South Summit; Lhakpa was ahead slightly, then waited one hour on south Col side of South Summit for Tenzing to join him but he didn't turn up and it was very cold so Lhakpa went down alone in visability was very bad - Tenzing probably fell from top of South Summit.

  Kami Rita, Lhakpa's brother, carried GPS equipment to summit on 25 May for this American expedition. Although he had also joined Nepalese expedition, he did not take leave from US team to go to Nepal team as claimed since he would then have lost Rs 20,000 as summiter with US. He got equipment allowance from both teams - he went to Island Peak, guiding German client of Americans trekking agent, saw off German at Lukla on 24 March and to Everest BC from Lukla with US loads. Kami Rita and Danuri joined UML's Democratic National Youth Federation in spring 1996 when DNYF started organizing an Everest expedition and this spring both carried loads for both expeditions. Danuri went to Lukla with US team's Sherpas on 29 March. Both stayed in Khumbu and met Nepalese team when it arrived at BC. Danuri went to top on 21 May with OTT summitters and Burleson unhappy he was summitting when he was needed for Burleson clients. 3 other climbing members of Nepal, expedition carried loads for Danuri and Lhakpa Rita. 

  Kami Rita says he summited as member of Nepalese expedition, which he joined 25 April. 


  Fax to:  Elizabeth Hawley 97
  From:    Wally Berg

  Dear Liz:

  I have solved the Kami Rita mystery and it is quite interesting: Kami Rita is Topke. Topke is apparently a "monks name" he was given after studying in the Monastery. The Sherpas on all items at base camp were being very discreet about "The Nepalese Youth Expedition." After you and I met, I learned from several sources that this was a UML expedition funded expedition and that two of our climbing Sherpas - Kami Rita and Danu - were listed on their permit as well as ours. Hence, the "Communist Youth Expedition" is now touting its success. We did see Danu carrying loads in the icefall on one day when he was to be resting and he told us that he was working for the other team. I am quite sure however, that Topke never carried loads or climbed for the UML team. So even though he has admitted to me that he was on the permit for both my team and Nepalese team. He worked for, and climbed with, our team exclusively. Despite what is reported elsewhere, the only team who put people on the summit May 25 was ours.


expid: EVER97106
peakid: EVER
year: 1997
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Steve Matous, Jason Edwards
sponsor: 1997 Canadian Everest Expedition
ascent1: 260
countries: Canada
bcdate: 1997-04-02
smtdate: 1997-05-23
termdate: 1997-05-26
campsites: BC(02/04),C1(12/04,6000m),C2(21/04,6550m),C3(23/04,7100m),C4(22/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
accidents: Edwards lost vision of one eye temporarily
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  From C4 on 22nd at 11:30 pm were 6 summiters and Edwards and Norbu (Rolwaling); Edwards turned back at 8500m (on his 3rd attempt on Everest) because loss of vision in one eye related to altitude and Norbu back down with him "but I did my job: I was hired to put Jamie and Alan on the top" (other team did its job - Jeff and Jason were hired).

  We participated in 3 rescues:  

    Dave Carter of Guy Cotter's team
    Hugo Rodriguez of OTT team
    Karsang Sherpa of Italian Lhotse Team
      (Edwards pulled into crevasse and pulled and got him out - 
       cheek pulled open - Rovira and Cotter's Dr stitched his face)

  Matous never went to Khumbu because of slipped discs (during long flight to Nepal?). Jason Edwards became leader.


expid: EVER97105
peakid: EVER
year: 1997
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiroshi Okura, Kiyohiko Tsujita
sponsor: Noevir Mt. Everest Expedition 1997
bcdate: 1997-04-01
smtdate: 1997-04-17
termdate: 1997-04-19
termnote: Abandoned on 20 Apr due to strange weather
campsites: BC(01/04,5350m),C1(07/04,6050m),C2(13/04,6450m),xxx(17/04,7200m)
accidents: Nothing except coughs; Yamamoto had bad cough but quickly recovered in KTM
agency: Trans Himalayan Trekking (THT)
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  High point at C3 site on Lhotse West Face.

  Very cold in BC (5 days ago -15 degree C) and leader received in KTM 19 April NASA report of bad weather ahead; said weather "like strange." Expedition was not normal expedition but "company event" and "perfect safety" could not be assured. For Yamamoto "this climb a job" so Ok with him to stop but big disappointment for Takahashi, who last year was youngest atop K2. 

  In this team only real climbers Atsushi Yamamoto, Hirotaka Takeuchi and Kazuhiro Takahashi and 3 others [Muriguchi, Nukita, Shiota] summit possible. Duff team made Icefall route and Indonesians Lhotse Face to South Col. Very hard blue ice on lower part of Lhotse Face "but no problem for me" - only cold fingers little problem."

  Oxygen used in BC by 4-5 members who were not real climbers and in "not good condition."

  Nukita by phone early May 97 - "no one understands" why climb was abandoned.


expid: EVER97126
peakid: EVER
year: 1997
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Malcolm Duff
sponsor: Ascent Everest Expedition
ascent1: 263,269
countries: Australia, Mexico
bcdate: 1997-04-03
smtdate: 1997-05-23
smttime: 0945
campsites: BC(03/04,5350m),C1(07/04,6100m),C2(15/04,6400m),C3(24/04,7300m),C4(22/05,7900m),Smt(23,27/05)
accidents: Duff probably died of heart attack on 22-23 April
achievment: 1st ascent by Australian woman
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Delgado started for top at 11:20 pm on 22nd with Tenzing, who was carrying 4 oxygen bottles and using oxygen himself; at about 8500m at 3:00 am Delgado started to use oxygen and kept using it till return from summit and met Rodriguez at South Summit on his way up at 11:30 am (after Delgado spent 1-1/2 hours on top) and he was perfectly well but his oxygen almost finished; Delgado gave him Delgado's bottle and so Delgado finished his descent without it till 8500m where found a bottle which he used it till it used up almost at Col, where there was more. 

  26th May Muir's party left col 10:00-11:00 pm, on top at 10:30 am 27th (all 3 used oxygen) and returned safely to Col.

  Sherpa summiters:  
    Keepa, Kharikhola, Everest twice before and other 8000m 
    Tenzing, Thami, Everest 3 times before
    Dorje, Everest 5 times before
      (aka Dorje "Lambu" - Lambu means tall in Nepali)


  Jon Tinker, OTT Everest S Leader - 30 May 97

  Best guess as to cause of Mal Duff's death is heart attack or something similar to cerebral thrombosis. He was found lying on his side with a book in his hands. No smell of liquor on him, no bottle in his tent although he was a heavy drinker. (Duff was best man at Tinker's wedding).


  Dr. Yuri Contreras, (H Todd Team) - 31 May 97

  Duff's death very probably due to heart attack.


expid: EVER97109
peakid: EVER
year: 1997
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Henry Todd
sponsor: Audio Everest Expedition 1997
ascent1: 270
countries: Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Mexico, USA
bcdate: 1997-04-05
smtdate: 1997-05-27
smttime: 0900
othersmts: Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-971-01)
campsites: BC(05/04,5350),C1(07/04,6000m),C2(13/04,6400m),C3(28/04,7300m),C4(26/05,7900m),Smt(27/05)
achievment: 1st Latvian American to summit Everest from both sides of Everest
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  27 May 10:45 left for top from C4: Contreras, Pauls and Dawa Sana - reached top 9:00 am after having to make trail in deep snow (Contreras and Dawa broke trail); Pauls arrived at top 20 minutes after 1st 2 men). During descent Contreras felt badly at 8700m and oxygen ran out; Latvian's oxygen finished at 8600m and both made very slow descent and arrive Col at 5:00 pm (Pauls) and 7:00 pm (Contreras). Contreras very happy to make his 2nd ascent by route new to him, but "north side more beautiful."

  Oxygen:
    Todd and Watts from C3
    Contreras, Pauls and Dawa at and above C4

  Sherpa summiter Dawa Sona, 29, Pangboche, this his first 8000m summit.

  Peta Watts was at South Col with Everest summiters (so was Todd but had no intention of trying for its summit, but intended to summit Lhotse from Col after return of summit team) but Contreras came back with frostbite and as leader, Todd obliged to help him. Watts left Col what ten minutes after summit party, turned back after an hour with pains in chest; Pemba Dorje and Ang Tshering up with her and down with her; she slept on Col that night and strong next day and helped bring down Contreras.

accidents:
  Conley retinal hemorrhage at 6400m & left early; Contreras frostbitten fingers one hand but will heal


expid: LHOT97101
peakid: LHOT
year: 1997
route1: W Face
nation: UK
leaders: Henry Todd
sponsor: Audio Everest Expedition 97
ascent1: 35th,38th
countries: Australia, Canada, Denmark, Italy, Latvia, Norway, USA
bcdate: 1997-04-05
smtdate: 1997-05-23
smttime: 1500
othersmts: Climbed Everest (EVER-971-09)
campsites: BC(05/04,5350m),C1(07/04,6000m),C2(13/04,6400m),C3(28/04,7300m),C4(26/05,7900m),Smt(23,26/05)
accidents: Yates upset stomach
achievment: 1st Dane on summit
agency: Asian Trekking
primid: EVER97109
routememo:
  C3 on West Face
  C4 on West Face.

  C4 left by Yates and Jorgenson for summit on 22nd night but Yates got sick from over-eating and back to C4 while Jorgenson continued up with 3 Russians (Russians using oxygen, Jorgenson not), fixing rope as they climbed, 200m below summit, Hinkes caught up with them using new long bottle of oxygen and helped fix rope. Hinkes and Jorjenson reached summit together at about 3:00 pm. Jorgenson slept C4. Yates tried to summit on 24th but after 4 hours climbing turned back at about 8200m because of dehydration and weakness from sickness. 

  2 Boskoffs went from C4; Keith not feeling well so turned back while Christine carried on and passed Russians on way to top; both slept in C4.

  Peta Watts was at South Col with Evreest summiters (so was Todd but had no intention of trying for its summit, but intended to summit Lhotse from Col after return of summit team) but Contreras came back with frostbite and as leader, Todd obliged to help him. Watts left Col what ten minutes after summit party, turned back after an hour with pains in chest; Pemba Dorje and Ang Tshering up with her and down with her; she slept on Col that night and strong next day and helped bring down Contreras.


expid: EVER97111
peakid: EVER
year: 1997
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Sweden
leaders: Thomas Sjogren
sponsor: Swedish Everest 1997 Expedition
bcdate: 1997-04-06
smtdate: 1997-05-28
termdate: 1997-05-31
termnote: Abandoned at 8200m due to lateness in May
campsites: BC(06/04,5350m),C1(12/04,6200m),C2(16/04,6400m),C3(25/05,7400m),C4(27/05,7900m),xxx(28/05,8200m)
accidents: Tina lips frostbitten; cook almost died of altitude sickness but later returned to BC
achievment: Highest altitude record for Swedish woman
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse face
  C4 at South Col
  High point at face above South Col.

  28 May made summit attempt (only people to do so that day - last people on Col that afternoon); really not summit attempt since not expecting to go to top now: Sherpas wanted to go down since it was very late in May, there were no fixed ropes immediately above col, weather forecast was for reduced winds on 28th and didn't want to go up in crowd of 25th May, where winds were forecast to be a bit strong. On 28th really going up to see how high they could reach. Slept that night at C2 after turning back about noon at about 8200m. Happy to have reached such high altitude and had wonderful view.


expid: EVER97101
peakid: EVER
year: 1997
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Indonesia
leaders: Edhie Wibowo
sponsor: Indonesian Everest Expedition 1997 (South)
ascent1: 248
countries: Kazakhstan, Russia
bcdate: 1997-03-19
smtdate: 1997-04-26
smttime: 1425
termdate: 1997-05-01
othersmts: Attempted Everest N side (EVER-971-03)
accidents: Iwan Setiawan fell 5 times on Hillary Step but not hurt
achievment: 1st South Asian men atop Everest
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(19/03,5350m),C1(22/03,6100m),C2(27/03,6500m),C3(06/04,7300m),C4(25/04,7900m),C5(26/04,8500m),Smt(26/04)

routememo:
  C2 in West Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col
  C5 before South Summit (biv with one 2-man tent as cover for 8 men on descent).

  Indonesian Everest - south side

  26 April 12:55 am summit party left BC: Asmujiono, Misirin, Iwan Irawan, Bachkirov, Boukreev, Vinogradski, Apa, Dawa Nuru and 7 more Sherpas (total 15). 7 Sherpas stopped below Hillary Step because weather cold and snowing and party was slow (2:00 pm when stopped on Russian instruction). Vinogradski and Iwan stopped at 8800m because Iwan very tired and slow; reached biv-C5 at 8:00 pm with 3 others who summitted. Apa and Anatoli made trail to top and others followed. Apa and Anatoli on summit 2:25 pm; other 3 summiters at 3:26 pm. Hillary Step very dangerous because very steep and very high altitude 27th biv, party started down at 9:30 am, when sun's warmth reached them and slept at C4: reached C2 on 28th. No more summit parties sent up because national team had succeeded already and with uncertainty about weather did not want to take more risk. In C5 climbers thought all oxygen finished, but found 4 bottles on 27th and used it. Misirin "ran" to summit for last 50m after shouting a call to the spirits "commando!" Boukreev said; it was he who told Iwan Setiawan that he must turn back only 10 vertical meters before summit; Boukreev wanted no tragedy; this despite Indonesians motto "tis better to die than fail."

  Rochadi - 12 May 97: Misirin blacked out for more of 2 minutes at summit; Vinogradski (a doctor) pulled him to his feet and he was Ok (had raced to summit too quickly).

  Misirin did not actually reach the summit of Everest. Boukreev wrote in his book, The Climb, pages 247-8," ... I ordered everyone down. Vinogradski turned and went to Iwan, who was about eighty meters from the summit poles. I reached Misirin, thirty meters from his goal. I knelt beside him, collapsed in the snow. I told Misirin he had achieved the summit. I was amazed to see him stand, collect his power, and begin the descent. We encountered Vinogradski and Iwan descending one hundred meters below the summit. It had been difficult to turn these men around, they had come so far, but now I insisted. Every minute was important. We would compromise our plan for survival if we did not descend in the light of the day."


expid: MAKA97101
peakid: MAKA
year: 1997
route1: W Face-W Pillar-S Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Sergei Efimov
sponsor: Russian Makalu Expedition
ascent1: 52nd
approach: By helicopter from Kathmandu
bcdate: 1997-03-27
smtdate: 1997-05-21
termdate: 1997-05-28
achievment: 1st ascent by W Face
agency: Everest Trekking
campsites:
  LowBC(27/03,4600m),ABC(27/03,5300m),C1(30/03,5400m),C2(06/04,6100m),C3(17/04,6500m),C4(20/04,6900m),C5(29/04,7300m),Smt(21/05)

routememo:
  Lower BC Tangmar
  ABC at south end of Chago Glacier above its junction with Barun Glacier
  C1 at plateau at north side of West Pillar
  C2 on West Face just to left of West Pillar
  C3 on West face just to left of West Pillar
  C4 on West face just to left of West Pillar
  C5 on West face just to left of West Pillar.

  Wall began at about 5800m between C1 and C2 - most fixed rope from C3 to above C5 at 7500m (total 1300m here) on 50 degree avalanche ice. After twice going to 7300-7500m fixing rope and acclimatizing, 3 days rest in lower BC, then 6 members (all except Efimov, Bychkovski and Klepikov) make push for summit, leaving lower BC 9 May, from ABC 11 May with other 3 members 2 days after. 1st 3 members biv at end of fixed rope at 7600m on 14 May. May 16 six members at this biv, now a camp. Biv at 7670m on 17 May. 18 May reached 7750m and biv. 19 May biv 8000m. 20 May 8150m last biv. 21 May 6 men started for summit but at 8200m Khabibulin stopped ascent and body found there by other 5 in their descent (died of exhaustion and altitude). 5 reached summit within half an hour of each other and slept in last biv. Was most difficult climb of their lives with 8 ropes of vertical rock and ice. At 8000m joined top of West Pillar and summited by West Pillar route up South Ridge. This line to right of Kurtyka-Kukuczka-MacIntyre line of 1982. 22nd May descended to 7650m and 23rd 3 men in C5 while Jiline to C3 and Ermatchek would later also C3. 24th 3 from C5 went for C3, but Bougatshevski was struck by falling rock at about 6800m on head and was killed. 2 men from C3 to ABC that day. 25th other 2 reached ABC - all in lower BC 26th.

  Oxygen: Bougatshevski used on 22 May because of pain near liver - he was only member to use oxygen.

  This was a good team. Khabibulin was leader of their climbing effort and was very good technical man who was able to lead sections no one else could. He worked so very hard he had no strength left, sat down to rest and never got up.

accidents:
  Klepikov left BC 3 May with frostbitten toes; Bougatshevski killed by falling rock; Khabibulin died of exhaustion on summit attempt


expid: KANG97104
peakid: KANG
year: 1997
route1: N Ridge-N Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kang Tae-Sun
sponsor: 1997 Korean Annapurna I - Kangchenjunga Expedition
approach: Basantapur->Kunga->Pangpema BC
bcdate: 1997-04-14
smtdate: 1997-05-08
termdate: 1997-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 8350m due to bad weather, too windy
othersmts: Attempted Annapurna I (ANN1-971-01)
campsites: BC(14/04,5150m),C1(19/04,6000m),C2(28/04,6900m),C3(06/05,7900m),C4(16/05,8300m),xxx(08/05,8350m)
accidents: Kami Sherpa sprained his ankle
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  April 15-17 BC. 18 April set up C1 by all six climbing members and 5 Sherpas. 19 April Yoo and Shin slept at C1. Lhakpa and Tenzing also went to C1 to sleep. 20 April Yoo, Shin and Lhakpa Sherpa climbed 400m and returned to C1. 20 April Um and Kami went to C1. 21 April made fixed ropes up to 6700m and slept at C1. 22 April the three rested at C1 with Sherpas. 23 April went up to 6800m and returned to C1 at 9:30 pm. 24 April all came down to BC. 25-26 April rest at BC. 

  27 April BC to C1 by Um, Park, Kim, Yoo, Shin and 5 Sherpas. 28 April all went to C2 to sleep. 29 April Kim and Park went to C1 others stayed at C2. 30 April bad weather, snowy, windy, cloudy. C2 member and C1 all came to BC. May 1, 2 rested at BC. 

  May 3 6 members, 5 Sherpas went to C1 to sleep. May 4 Um, Yoo, Shin, Park went to C2 to sleep (also 5 Sherpas). May 5 Um, Yoo, Shin and 5 Sherpas climbed towards C3 reached 7500m and the four slept there (a bivouac). May 6 Um, Shin, Tenzing and Italian slept at C3. May 7 Um, Tenzing, Italian tried for summit went up 200m. Tenzing did not climb and three returned (there was too much snow & Um was angry with Sherpa) to C3 and slept there. May 8 Um and De Stefani and 2 Slovaks went up to 8350m. Bad weather, too much snow, windy too cloudy. Returned to C1 at 9:00 pm. May 9 BC. May 10-11 rested. 

  Um, Yoo, Park, Shin, Kim went to C1 and De Stefani and 4 Sherpas went to C2 on May 13. May 14 was windy. Shin and Park came down to C1. Um, Yoo, 4 Sherpas and De Stefani stayed at C2. May 15 Um, Yoo, Ang Kami and Italian went to C3 and slept there. May 16 Um, Yoo, De Stefani slept at C4. Kami and Ang Kami supported but slept at C3. May 17 Um, Yoo and De Stefani came down to C1. Lhakpa and Tenzing went to C2 to rescue Kami Sherpa. May 18 Um, Yoo and De Stefani came down to BC. Shin, Kim and Sarki went to C1. 19 May Shin, Kim and Sarki went to C3 to rescue and met the others on the way. All the rescuers slept at C1. 20 May all came to BC. 21 May rest. May 22 left BC.

  US and Spanish group used Koreans tent C3 on 13 May 14 May. Lost ice-axe. Made a mess. There was snow in the tent.

  * Um was pulling the Sherpa and his water bottle. Sherpa had earlier inside the tent said he would climb but after 10 minutes he said he would not climb. His mind sort of went blank.

  8300m Ang Kami Sherpa
  8300m Kami Sherpa
  7900m Lhakpa Sherpa
  6900m Sarki Sherpa
  7900m Tenzing Sherpa

  On 16 May Kami Sherpa was returning after setting C4. He fell down 400m. He lost crampon and his ankle was sprained. The Sherpas at C3 went up to and brought him down to C3


expid: MAKA97104
peakid: MAKA
year: 1997
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Denmark
leaders: Michael Strynoe
sponsor: Independent climber on UK permit
bcdate: 1997-04-28
smtdate: 1997-05-25
termdate: 1997-05-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to lateness in the day
campsites: BC02/04,5200m),ABC(01/05,5600m),C1(03/05,6300m),C2(16/05,6660m),xxx(30/05,7300m)
accidents: None (slight frostbite)
agency: Asian Trekking/Sherpa Cooperative Trekking (SCT)
routememo:
  Above information from trekking agent friendly to Strynoe, Padma Shrestha of Sherpa Cooperative Trekking.

  Zangrilli of UK-US Makalu expedition, whose permit Strynoe climbed on said Strynoe, "very strange" man, did not socialize much at ABC. Insisted on climbing alone and even made his own route above ABC. He had made a depot at 5000m by the time Zangrilli arrived at BC, but don't know if he made higher camps nor how high he reached, though it seemed he did not much above 6000m. He told Zangrilli he had been at Makalu for one month when Zangrilli arrived on 27 April (Shrestha explains Strynoe had gone to BC areas thinking he would be on Italian expedition's permit, but that expedition was cancelled and he had to wait for Hinkes' people to arrive).

  In BC 2nd to 30th April waiting for permit to arrive 1st May to ABC just before big icefall. 3rd to C1. 4th Down to ABC to collect more gear. 5th rested. 6th to C1. 7th to ABC again. 8th rested. 9th to C1. 10th to ABC. Rested and bad weather till 14th when went to C1. 15th to C2 site to leave gear and returned to C1 same day. 16th to C2 to stay. 17th down to C1 to collect gear and returned to C2. 18th C2 to 6900m & back to C2 because snowstorm. 19th ABC in bad weather. 22nd to C2. 23rd to C1 & back to C2. 26th to 7050m in more bad weather (so cloudy no visibility) and back to C2. 28th to ABC because of bad weather & food running out. 29th to C2. 30th to 7300m and back to C2 because cloudy and too late in the day. 31st down to ABC and now no time for more climbing.

  Was on Hinkes' permit but an independent climber; sometimes climbed with others who were on mountain at same time.


expid: KANG97102
peakid: KANG
year: 1997
route1: N Face
nation: USA
leaders: Jonathan Pratt
sponsor: 1997 Kangchenjunga Expedition
ascent1: 47th
countries: UK
bcdate: 1997-04-07
smtdate: 1997-05-24
smttime: 1500
termdate: 1997-05-31
accidents: McArthur's serious altitude sickness
agency: Everest Parivar
campsites:
  BC(07/04,5150m),C1(12/04,5400m),C2(13/04,5900m),C2.5(19/04,6600m),C3(20/04,6800m),C4(11/05,7400m),C5(12/05,7800m),Smt(24/05)

routememo:
  BC at Pangpema
  C3 on North face
  C4 at snow field above rock band
  C5 at higher snow field.

  Had problem in rock band area when Slovak's leader became hostile and refused to let this team use Slovaks ropes, so had to put in own ropes. De Stefani had thrown ice axe at Herries when C2 being pitched on 12 April in fit of temper over Howkin's being on mountain ("she good only for sex," he complained) and then in early May asked to join this team but was refused.

  14 May McKee and Howkins made summit bid but turned back at 8200m because of wind.

  16 May McArthur, Sieger, Chatwin and Lockhart tried for top but at 7900m encountered Korean's Sherpa who had broken his ankle and US had to bring him to bring him to US C5 (Koreans refused to come to him then and did very little for him). McArthur on 18th descending from C3, slipped on steep ice 20m and fell 8m to C2.5; had cerebral and pulmonary edema before he fell - was completely confused (like a drunk and no recollection of falling) in his zigzag route he took. He was evacuated by helicopter near C1 on 19th.

  24 McKee summitted from C5 alone (no one else in C5 that day); left C5 at 6:00 am and on top and 3:00 pm and down to C4 early morning of 25th; was full moon that night but started snowing at 2:00 am as he reached C4.

  Heavily snowed from 25th to 27th dumping deep snow on mountain so on 28th Pratt, Mazur and Seiger, only members left, turned back from C4 and climb finished.

  Some avalanching especially in afternoons through rocks above and right of C3 but no one hurt.


expid: KANG97103
peakid: KANG
year: 1997
route1: N Face
nation: Slovakia
leaders: Jaryk Stejskal
sponsor: Slovak Mountaineering Expedition to Kangchenjunga
countries: Czech Republic
approach: Taplejung via Ghunsa->Kambachen->Lhonak->Pangpema
bcdate: 1997-04-11
smtdate: 1997-05-13
termdate: 1997-05-16
termnote: Abandoned at 8500m due to no time and bad weather
campsites: BC(11/04,5000m),C1(14/04,5800m),C2(19/04,6900m),C3(07/05,7800m),xxx(13/05,8500m)
accidents: Glejdura frostbitten fingers and toes (will heal)
agency: Himalayan Explorers
routememo:
  After 14 April took 2 days to fix rope on ice couloir then returned to BC to rest. On 17 April headed for C2 and C1. On 18 started to take gear to C2. Martis, Kardhordo and Vondercik reached C2 on 19 April. Kardhordo and Vondercik tried to go on US route but returned to C1. Plulik & Hromadka on 19th started up and fixed 100m rope, returned to C1. Next Martis and Glejdura fixed 150m, returned to C1. Vondercik and Kardhordo did the rest. Returned to BC (everybody) 4-5 days rest. 

  1st group of 2 men (Vondercik and Kardhordo) started from BC on May 3 and slept at C1. On May 4 C2, on May 5 reached 7500m and turned back to C2. On 6 May Vondercik and Kardhordo went to C1. 

  On May 4 2nd group of 3 men (Martis, Glejdura & Gablik) started from BC. 4 May to C1. 5 May ot C2. 6 May at C2. 7 May to C3. 8 May started up. After 300m, Glejdura returned (frostbitten legs) others returned from 8300m (too much snow) slept at C2 on May 8. Next day BC.

  1st group start up from C1 on 11 May and slept at C2. 12 May C3. 13 May to 8500m and slept at C3. 14 May BC. Retreated from 8500m on 13 May because of strong wind and it was 5:00 pm when they arrived at 8500m so too late to continue up. On 13 May wanted to start at midnight, but strong wind 120 km/hr whole night so returned to C3. Next day BC. 

  On 15 May Jindrich Martis went up till C3 and slept there. On 16 May he turned back. 


expid: BARU97101
peakid: BARU
year: 1997
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Rudi Mayr
sponsor: Austrian Baruntse Expedition
bcdate: 1997-04-30
smtdate: 1997-05-02
termdate: 1997-05-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to snow, wind and lack of time
campsites: BC(30/04),C1(01/05,6200m),xxx(02/05,6400m)
accidents: One Rai porter serious altitude sickness
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  Austrians never went above BC - returned to KTM via Amphu Laptsa. Sherpas only to 6400m.


  13 April 1998  

  Leader Mayr went to C1. Left BC with sick porter on 2 May night and other members left 3rd or 4th May. Climb abandoned on 2 May because of lack of time and lack of motivation by Pieber who had personal problems at home.


expid: MAKA97102
peakid: MAKA
year: 1997
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Claude Bitz, Serge Bonvin
sponsor: Swiss Makalu Expedition
bcdate: 1997-04-02
smtdate: 1997-04-20
termdate: 1997-04-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(02/04,5200m),C1(10/04,6300m),xxx(20/04,7300m)
accidents: None on mountain
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  BC at junction of glacier
  CI at flat area at turn of Chago Glacier

  Tried to go from C1 to top but very cloudy and snow every day. On 20th April both members went from C1 to 7300m but because snowstorm, windy, down to BC same day. Bonvin tried again to go up at night of 24th or 25th on full moon night but after 2 hours stopped but windy and cloudy (no moonlight) and avalanche danger from wind and no rope; reached 6000m only.


expid: KANG97101
peakid: KANG
year: 1997
route1: N Face (Scott 1979 rte)
nation: Spain
leaders: Inaki Ochoa
sponsor: Spanish Kangchenjunga Expedition
countries: Italy
bcdate: 1997-03-28
smtdate: 1997-05-08
termdate: 1997-05-16
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Kunga
termnote:
  Abandoned at 8250m by Spanish due to high winds and frostbite, at 8350m by Italian due to high winds

campsites:
  BC(28/03,5100m),C1(10/04,5800m),C2(28/04,6900m),C3(7850m),xxx.Spanish(06/05,8250m),xxx.Italian(08/05,8350m)

routememo:
  BC at Pangpema
  C2 at North Col
  C3 at hand-packed snow field on North Face.

  Snowed every day in April; no hope of climbing that month. This team expedition opened route to 6200m since were first to arrive.

  De Stefani said he was not strong enough to climb face, wanted to change route to ridge but Spanish did not. He then became friendly with Koreans and climbed their route (still with them now).

  14 May was Spaniards third attempt to reach top: 1st was 28 April when stopped by snowstorm at North Col; 2nd below castle. So when fierce winds struck on 14 May, Spaniards descended, no more attempts (Ochoa now frostnipped; others had been on mountain long enough).

  Um of Korean expedition: De Stefani went with him (Um) to their highest point at 8350m on 8 May. Re De Stefani's climbing with Koreans, see Koreans expedition's return form.

  Um, Korean's climbing leader.


expid: MAKA97103
peakid: MAKA
year: 1997
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Alan Hinkes
sponsor: Alan Hinkes Challenger 8000
countries: USA
bcdate: 1997-04-27
smtdate: 1997-05-18
termdate: 1997-06-05
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to lateness in the summit day
othersmts: Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-971-02) (only Hinkes joined other expedition)
campsites: BC(27/04,4700m),ABC(30/04,5600m),C1(07/05,6400m),C2(10/05,6600m),xxx(18,30/05,7200m)
accidents: Zangrilli hit by falling ice; Coates altitude problem
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  Hinkes he arrived by helicopter at 5400m on edge of Chago Glacier on 28 May by which time others had made 2 camps with one tent each and fixed rope to 6800m. Hinkes slept in C2 on 29 May and 30th tried to reach Makalu La but at 7200m waited for Zangrilli who it turned out had been hit on face by falling ice (or rock) which made him black out (after Hinkes 3 hours wait) at noon he reached Hinkes but not well and it was late (worried about rockfall at this time of day) so both down to C2 and 31st to ABC. High wind on mountain. Decided 2nd June to give it up.

  Zangrilli: Coates didn't acclimatize well and had problem with his nose, so Zangrilli did all the work fixing rope up to 7200m, where he arrived for his first time on 17 or 18 May and where he built up a depot of 2 tents, rope, food, fuel, etc. All ready for summit push when Hinkes arrived from his Lhotse climb. Coates established camps 1 and 2 which were far apart horizontally but not vertically on very long route. On 30 May Zangrilli hit on temple by falling ice at 7100m, which caused him to black out from time to time and vomit, he managed to climb up to Hinkes at 7200m but was blacking out and vomiting still, route was very now very steep hard ice, it was hot at midday and they were wearing hot down clothes so they decided to go down.


expid: GIMM97101
peakid: GIMM
year: 1997
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Patrick Parsons
sponsor: British Services Gimmigela Expedition
ascent1: 4th,5th
countries: Australia
bcdate: 1997-04-03
smtdate: 1997-05-10
termdate: 1997-05-18
campsites: BC(03/04,5139m),C1.ABC(09/04,5580m),C2(28/04,6300m),C3(04/05,6700m),C4(09/05,7000m),Smt(10,12/05)
accidents: Minor frostbite and 1 fall by Hart but not serious and continued climbing
achievment: 1st British ascent; 1st ascent of entire SW Ridge
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Pangpema
  C1 (ABC) at bottom of SW Ridge
  C2 on ridge
  C3 on ridge (same site as Japanese in autumn 1995)
  C4 on ridge before lower of the two twins.

  Above C1.ABC "was attention warfare" steep ice, steep crack, a lot of snow "a hell of a climb." Fixed all of route from C1 to C2 (about 1200m of rope fixed, most of it doubled up) and bit of other sections of route. C1 to C2 was "crux of the climb." Right until end outcome in doubt and 1st summit success was "superhuman effort" against strong wind and hard climbing.

  Brought all rubbish including ropes away from Pangpema.

  Decided when had actually finally established C2 that would not attempt Pyramid Peak although had paid its royalty and fee for liaison officer.

  Snowfall often: climbed all day, snowed all night, route making all over again. Towards the end, winds got strong.


expid: KANG97105
peakid: KANG
year: 1997
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Norbert Joos
sponsor: Swiss Kangchenjunga Expedition
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  After 4 day's trek towards base camp, Joos fell down at altitude of 2700m and was "not speaking" for half an hour. Then he was confused about why he was in Nepal. Later remembered he had come to climb Kangchenjunga. Joos and Beetschen came to KTM yesterday by helicopter and Joos flew home today.


expid: EVER97122
peakid: EVER
year: 1997
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Reinhard Patscheider
sponsor: On USA (Todd) permit
approach: From KTM and from Lhasa
bcdate: 1997-04-15
smtdate: 1997-05-08
termdate: 1997-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to illness
campsites: BC(15/04,5200m),ABC(18/04,6300m),C1(07/05,7000m),xxx(08/05,7100m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Made ABC on 18 April but stomach trouble sent Patscheider back to Kathmandu, where he arrived 20 April. He flew to Lhasa on 26 April and returned to BC 29 April and to ABC on 3 May. Reached North Col on 7 May and on 8 May only to 7100m, where turned back and abandoned climb because stomach trouble continued. He climbed alone much of the time, sometimes with Australians from team led by Pawlowski, whose permit Patscheider was on.


  W Studer - 26 May 97

  On 8 May, Studer and his wife climbed with Patscheider to 7100m. Not clear what his medical problem was: stomach trouble and headaches - did not use oxygen.


  Henry Todd - 8 June 97

  Patscheider was on Todd's permit for Lhotse. He intended to traverse Everest from north to south via South Col and Lhotse West Face. Todd, as agreed between him and Patscheider left tent, sleeping bag mat, stove, fuel, food for him at South Col. 


expid: JANU75301
peakid: JANU
year: 1975
route1: N Face
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Peter Vincent Farrell
sponsor: 1975 New Zealand Himalaya Expedition
countries: Australia, UK
approach: Dharan->Ghunsa->Jannu Glacier
bcdate: 1975-09-08
smtdate: 1975-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to high winds
campsites:
  BC(08/09,4420m),C1(5030m),C2(01/10,5450m),C3(6100m),C4(16/10,6700m),C4B(6800m),C5(6900m),xxx(20/10,7300m)

routememo:
  Khanal, MFA - 10 Oct 75

  Still trying, expected to make C2 yesterday at 22,000 ft. Weather fine. If all goes well, presume take 10 days to summit.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 29 Sept 75

  Since weather was bad, members came down to Adv BC.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 23 Sept 75

  C1 at 18,000 ft, maybe 20 Sept. So far weather not good previous week; making to more higher camp. 


  MP Khanal, MFA - 11 Sept 75

  BC at 14,800 ft 8 Sept by 13 members. One more member reached 9 Sept, one more still to arrive. All is well.


  Ed Hillary - 26 Aug 75

  "Well on their way. They're in good health. 1st couple days was very hot and quite bit rain but now at higher altitudes and should be quite pleasant."

  17 days to BC. Going to be terrifically dependent on weather, like any formidable climbs in post-monsoon.

  Lot very robust climbers, very strong blokes who can work hard. I think they will give it a good go, but they've got to have bit of luck with weather. 


  Farrell - 7 Aug 75

  Sirdar Sikku + 7 HA Sherpas
  + 1 for film crew
  + cook, runner, etc

  About 18 days march. BC 14,500 ft on Jannu Glacier or just above on moraine wall.
  Temp dump
  C1 18,000 ft in snow basin-neve camp
  3 camps on face
  C5 1 on ridge 23,500-24,000 ft
  So 5 camps above base, possibly another on ridge above C5.

  Have to finish climbing in 6 weeks because their getting too cold. Should be coming off mountain by end Oct, but perhaps not same winds of Everest area.

  Route really westerly flow, Technically hardest getting onto face; steepest and maybe most dangerous - 19,000-19,500 ft.

  2nd Deputy Leader of Japanese Jannu Spring 1974 thinks North Face direct of Jannu impossible, one of the big problems in Himalayas. Later Japanese expedition wants try that route.


  Letter from Limbo Thompson - Sept 13

  Base camp was established on 8 Sept 1975 at 14,950 ft in the northern lateral moraine of the Jannu Glacier.

  I arrived on 10 Sept with my group of porters. We have not had any problems. Everyone is in base camp to day because of the weather.

  The route has been to above 16,500 ft up both the rock buttress and the icefall. It is likely that we will use the rock, and hope to have someone established at the dump 16,500 ft within 2 days to establish the route to the Neve.

  All climbers except Farrel and myself have been involved with this week.

  Weather has been hampering progress with fine till about 10:00 am; rain in afternoon and snow evening.


  Letter from Limbo (Keith Thompson) - 16 Oct 75

  Today Jim, Geoff, Bryan and Peter finished climbing the very steep 1800 ft to the start of the ramp (at approximately 20,000 ft) the steep climbing on ice, on average 70 degrees and on places which has taken 5 days. Bryan, Geoff, Jim, Graeme and Ian have done the leading with the rest of us putting in double ropes.

  At present everyone is in new camp altitude (17,800 ft). All climbers, all Sherpas and the liaison officer. Tomorrow Roger Foley will take the mail to base camp for the mailrunner leaving on 9th October. Noel Sissons is the only one falling ill, and will go to BC tomorrow. The liaison officer will also return, two days being enough for him at this altitude.

  Once onto the camp the climbing is straight forward, and we are expecting very fast progress to the top of the face, then the summit ridge. Projections for our success are 5-10 days time. Perhaps before you receive this you may have heard good news.


  Letter from Limbo Thompson - 27 Sep 75

  At present, BC is covered in 20 cm of snow - and its still snowing. This started 48 hours ago and although we worked Thursday in snow, yesterday we had off. We will need to wait a day or two for this to clear once it stops snowing as our route up the Bluffs will be dangerous from avalanche until snow on the rock has slid.

  Camped at Half-way House are Sissons, Strang, Pooley, Wayatt, 2 Sherpas, Hawke, Attewell who have been carrying from the Flying Fox.

  The camp in the Neve is unoccupied at present. This snow will mean that the route to the Neve will have to be reestablished.

  There are only twenty more loads and everything needed for the face and then Neve Camp would be above the Flying Fox. So we are ready to start work in earnest as soon as this clears.


  Letter from Roger Foley - 25 Sep 75

  On Sept 12th Bryan Pooley, Geoff Wayatt, Jim Strang and myself climbed through chaotic icefall which falls from neve at 18,000 ft to the top of a prominent rock buttress. At the same time Graeme Dingle and Ian Jowett forced a route directly up the buttress itself to meet us late in the afternoon and in falling snow.

  On Sept 15th, after two days of heavy snow at base camp, Peter Farrell, Noel Sissons, Graeme Dingle and Ian Jowett fixed ropes high on the buttress while Jim Strang, Brian Fearnley and Keith Thompson began carrying loads onto the face with six Sherpas.

  On Sept 16th, Geoff Wayatt, Jim Strang and Bryan Pooley got to within 200 ft of the neve (18,000 ft).

  Graeme Dingle and Ian Jowett establish a small camp on September 17 on top of the prominent buttress and the following day climbed through to the neve and selected a site for large camp.

  They were replaced several days later by Geoff Wayatt, Jim Strang and Bryan Pooley who began hauling loads from the top of a Flying Fox (situated lower on the buttress) to their Half-way House (16,500 ft).

  Equipment has since been taken through to the neve where a large camp should be erected within five days.

  The team is confident that it can scale the remaining 7000 ft (above the neve camp) in the next four weeks as long as the weather improves. It snows or rains daily at base camp and snow is still deep higher on the mountain.


  Letter from Peter Foley - 8th October 1975

  It seems that only now after lot of tremendously hardwork that we are making difficult progress on the north face of Jannu.

  To start with (first three weeks) we were not blessed with the best of weather a mixture of rain and snow. At one stage it snowed continuously for three days; this slowed us up somewhat.

  Anyway the whole show is looking much better now. We have not been able to approach the face directly at its base because of extreme avalanche danger. So the only alternative was 2000 feet of mixed snow, ice and rock - very steep, vertical in many places. We are now on the face, about a third the way up. We have not yet cramped on the face, again because of the avalanche danger. We have been working from one camp 1 in the snow basin at the foot of the face. (We have a safe camp), but now because of the distance we are committed to placing a camp on the face and we think we have a safe spot. We will know tonight which a recce party returns from the face.


  Letter from Limbo Thompson

  A route has been forced into the Neve 18,500 ft (to be confirmed) from BC 14,850 ft. Very steep bluffs at 16,000 ft are negotiated with which for 100 ft vertical rock and then a Flying Fox (aerial rope way) for a further 130 ft. Easy climbing up rock then proceeds to 16,600 ft, where a camp (know as the Dump) had established. Jowett and Dingle occupied this Camp 18/19 Sept and established a route into the Neve (18,500 ft approx). Strang, Pooley, Wayatt occupied the Dump today (20 Sept) and carried loads from Flying Fox to the Dump.

  At present we have 90 loads above the Flying Fox. At current progress should be establishing an advance base in the Neve about 26 Sept.


expid: EVER75301
peakid: EVER
year: 1975
route1: SW Face-S Smt
nation: UK
leaders: Chris Bonington
sponsor: British Everest Expedition 1975
ascent1: 19th,20th
countries: W Germany
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1975-08-23
smtdate: 1975-09-24
smttime: 1800
termdate: 1975-10-01
accidents: Burke fell to death near summit
agency: Mountain Travel
campsites:
  BC(25/08,5425m),C1(28/08,6100m),C2(02/09,6550m),C3(07/09,7000m),C4(11/09,7250m),C5(16/09,7825m),C6(22/09,8320m),Smt(24,26/09)

routememo:
  Thompson - 6 Oct 75

  2 days ago BC last loads left. Some frostnip but nothing serious - Boysen, Boardman and Doug Scott.

  Arrivals 1st flight this morning
    Mike Thompson
    Jim Duff
    Dave Clarke
    Ian Stuart


  Khanal, MFA - 2 Oct 75

  Report on M. Burke from Bonington

  On 26th 2nd attempt to reach summit of Everest was made by Martin Boysen, Mike Burke, Peter Boardman and Sherpa Pertemba. They party set out at 4:30 in from C6 following fixed ropes put out by pair making ascent. Boysen was forced to turn back at about 5:30 after his crampon fell off. At this point Boardman and Pertemba were ahead and continued to summit off Everest which they reached at approx 13:10. On way down a short distance from the top, they were suprised to meet Burke who had descended to continue following the well-marked track after Boysen's return. He was in good spirits and continued to the summit whilst Boardman and Pertemba made their way down towards South Summit climbing one at a time. They had agreed to wait for Burke at this point before returning across the traverse to top camp. They waited for over an hour and the weather deteriorated seriously into white-out conditions and a violent gale. Burke did not arrive and they assumed that he must have slipped on way down since he had plenty of time to reach them. Their own position was now critical since they only had a short period of daylight left and they could not possibly have survived the night in the storm. Boardman therefore took the agonizing decision to continue down. They only just managed to get back to their camp an hour after dark. The storm raged through out next day making any kind of movement impossible. There was therefore no question of making any kind of further search and on 20th Sept in the interest of safety the expedition leader ordered the mountain to be cleared.


  Chris Ralling - 1 Oct 75

  Bonington given letter to Reg Halloway and MFA will rocks full statement.

  A tragic thing because 1st summit such enormous success; exactly what happened I don't think anyone will ever know; they'd broken off into 2 parties. Mick was going to summit to take pix for BBC and had BBC below Peter flag - serious almost certain he did make the summit - 10 min gap when he did make summit; camera and body not recovered. "Weather closed down extremely fast." Chris Bonington speculates Doug Scott arrived just at sunset and got summit shots - arrived just in time for magnificent sunset.

  Biv very close to South Summit - they think they were in toilet, know of no one with serious frostbite.

  Everyone is in BC; all camps closed and all members in BC; Sherpas ferrying loads down still. 


  Hamish MacInnes - 30 Sept 75

  I got caught in avalanche earlier climb, Ok now. Climb just surmising after that heavy snowfall - down below about 60 hours [of snow] very heavy indeed - just Peter and PT Chris Bonington at C2 lasted hard
  Dougal and Doug at BC and well a terrible tragedy"

  "Up a bit which Tut (Braithwaite) and Nick led that was quite hard of course the band that was reasonably hard - but up to C5 it was about the same" (as earlier years) C3 but "old Camp 4 had would not have been a hope of someone who has frostbitten feet - that's the person who should have been picked up today and I don't know who it "is" - not yet reached BC.


  Hamish MacInnes - 30 Sept 75

  Tut (Braithwaite) and Nick Estcourt made route up gully which led through Rock Band - fixed rope whole way up from C5 to couple hundred feet below C6 and down to C2 that night. C6 next day or 2 days later probably by Haston, Scott and support party he thinks including Chris and support party to C5.

  MacInnes just before Dougal between C4 and C5 - powder snow avalanche channeled right on top of me. I passed out and another few seconds I'd have had it. Powdered snow in his lungs: he was not on oxygen. Dougal was and didn't see small avalanche channel and with his oxygen mask didn't hear. MacInnes wrapped fixed rope around and held on - about 12 days ago: going up to establish C5 which was establish next day.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 29 Sept 75

  Mick Burke died in 2nd summit bid on 26th Sept . Peter Boardman and Sirdar Pertemba reached summit 26th Sept. Burke was with them. Cause of death not known. Team coming back without further sleep. 


  Tenzing - 26 Sept 75

  My heartiest congrats - done very quickly - does at just right time - after monsoon too high winds. They've done it - wonderful.

  Team spirit very important. This route more difficult then West Ridge - 1000 ft loose rock which in June is falling. East Face probably as difficult as SW Face.


  JOM Robert - 26 Sept 75

  "Amazing speed they climbed it bt - extraordinary that weather was so much more favourable than anyone expected ;"the weather gamble came off."
  These same climbers have been on Everest before.

  "Speed of execution" is the wonder.

  "Poor old Everest had a bit of beating - Japanese ladies climb and now this
  hope it doesn't lay up.
  Too much ill will for any next year.
  Was doubtful about weather himself

  "fortune favours the brave."

  "He deserves it very much" = Chris himself on top - think Chris will make attempt.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 25 Sept 75

  Haston and Scott

  24 Sept - 18:00 hrs

  On way down made biv at South Summit on 25 Sept at 08:05 hrs
  reached C6 came down C2 at 14:00 hrs today.

  Scheduled to make further attempts. 


  Progress Report by Mike Chenney - received 24 Sept 75

  Very fine morning. Bonington and Richards at C5. Bonington proposes to stay at C5 and lead from there. Richards to C2 on 18th. Not much progress today due muddy over shape camp C2 to C4. Chris Bonington and Richards met 3 lengths of rope and towards C6. Doug Scott and Nick Estcourt to C5 on 18th. Weather fine.

  18th Sept - route to foot of Rock band established and roped, otherwise not much progress; still short of rope at C5
  At C5 Bonington, Richards, Scott. Chris Bonington says we plans to stay at C5 until Summit reached in 6-7 days.
  At C4 Mike Thompson in charge.
  At C2 Adrian Gordon - manager.
  At C1 Mike Rhodes in charge but will shortly manage to C2 leaving Sardar Ang Phu in charge.
  Weather remaing very fine - no snowfalls.

  19th Sept - Today (I understand) climbing of Rock Band started; may take 3-4 days from C5; C6 almost certainly will be above Rock Band.
  Summit on 27/28th still very real possibility.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 23 Sept 75

  LO says yesterday C5 at 27,200 ft above rock band by Haston and Scott


  Peter Schefield, Stratford on Avon - 23 Sept 75

  C6 made 19th mailrunners said at Syang on 20th 

  Schefield at BC 17th - were 2 days from making C6 then - planned a C6 at bottom of Rock Band then perhaps C7, perhaps not - on schedule which would mean summit on 28th - why 9 days more, Schefield doesn't know.

  No information about anyone injured.

  Winds only 25 knots - much less than they expected.


  MP Khanal - 17 Sept 75

  C5 - 16 Sept 25,500 ft
  Bonington and Richards

  Final camp will be C6 according to present plan says LO


  MP Khanal, MFA - 8 Sept 75

  C3 established yesterday - altitude probably 23,000 ft. 
  All well.
  Camp pitched by 2 members and 2 Sherpas.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 3 Sept 75

  C2 established 2 Sept 22,300 ft - "despite bad weather, progress is on."


  Richardson - 3 Sept 75

  C1, established 27th August by Estcourt and Richards at top of Icefall
  BC at about 17,600 ft - usual site.


  Richardson, BC - 23 Aug 

  BC established 2 days ahead of target and first climbers already made their way halfway up Icefall.

  22 Aug advance party of Haston and Estcourt, who arrive BC 21 Aug, reached 1/3 way up Icefall. Looked not too difficult despite soft snow.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 31 Aug 75

  BC established 22nd Aug at 17,000 ft and from 23rd started making route
  message date 26th Aug from LO.


  Cheney - 2 Aug 75

  Today to Lamosangu and a trail:

  7 climbers       Bonington
  1 BC mgr         Haston
  1 Sun Times      2 Climbers
  4 BBC            Estcourt
  1 LO             Fyffe
  6 Sherpas        Richardson
  70 Porters       Cheney
                   Richards
                   4 BBC  (ex Kelly)

  180 miles Lamosangu to BC


  Bonington - 2 Aug 75

  "I think we've got a reasonable chance of success. I have never known smoother rhythym in KTM. Got gear out of KTM before monsoon and Cheney's super organization and very good relations between members and Sherpas." "If we do succeed as much to teamwork as to planning and equipment."

  "But still a hell of a lot against us."

  Best acclimatization when reach BC, but have Khunde and Lobuche walking because can't get late in mid-monsoon and 12-day walk makes you fit and gets you in mood of expedition."

  Takes time to get to be team and from fitness point of view.


  Bonington - 30 July 75

  First feeling in 1972 that post-monsoon not favourable modified by reviewing experience and could get Canada's slot so decided could actually tackle mountain in post-monsoon - plus in spring, face can be bare.

  success can come now from
  1) earlier
  2) stronger
  3) experience on face by members
  4) route via lefthand side of rock band - a gully through this lefthand side -
     rock step in this gully appears 300 ft high and thus tackle-able and from
     C5. Logistically impossible to put more than 2 camps above 26,000 ft 
  5) excellent, strong, warm equipment for an autumn attempt - boxes "absolutely
     vital function" to enable succeed.

  French ran into trouble because they chose route of like of avalanche risk area and thus part of each camp taken away. Their weather from mid-August was very reasonable until violent storm of 9 Sept with heavy snowfall. "We certainly not taking undue risk" - nor did French: French problem was location their camps C1 and C2 could be particularly susceptible to avalanche risk and we will be very careful to place them. If weather forecast says temperature going up, climbing will stop and members stay in camp. Will use forecasts but also our own judgement.

  Always is some risk of avalanche on Everest and one can always still get caught. Our prime purpose is to climb SW Face of Everest and solve intriguing mountain problem. If we happen to put Briton top, as far as down concerned its coincidental.

  "Must be most tremendous experience" for one to stand atop world's highest peak.

  Incredibly lucky to get just one team on top of Everest - will try get as many as possible - most unlikely Bonington himself. Rock band is the key - "if we could climb rock band, very good chance success."

  As of now "sporting chance of success" that 5 good expeditions failed proves difficulty.
   
  Band 800 ft high - but 300 ft of this looks hard climbing (steep rock) very high altitude, which earlier expeditions were not in state to try it - on left side band from 26,500 ft altitude.

  "SW Face is absolutely gigantic problem." If we equipment ourselves as well as possibly can, still human element decisive and "we just give ourselves chance of survival." Hopefully we in 1975 have just good enough equipment to get to top by face as in 1953 British equipments.


  Cheney

  Sherpas and Sahibs co-ops and all equal members to climb together - Sirdar Pertemba in England since last year working closely with Chris - Sherpa co-operation contracted to get gear to Khunde from KTM.


  Bonington

  International expedition can work if have common aim - Changabang extremely pleasant experience face expeditions

  Spring 1970  29 members above BC
               40 Sherpas

  Spring 1971  22 members above BC
               35 Sherpas
   
  Spring 1972  20 members above BC
               29 Sherpas

  Aut 1972     10 members above BC
               39 Sherpas

  Aut 1973     36 members above BC
               62 Sherpas

  Aut 1975     16 members above BC
               60 Sherpas

  Climbing Everest in autumn is race against the cold 
  MacInnes bullet - pad glass on boxes to ward off stones

  Environment 200 loads firewood this time; 900 loads in 1972 - real effort to clean up BC times etc and special rakes to keep clean image in march. 


  Chris Bonington, airport - 30 Aug 75

  We've come with several somethings going for us

  1) 3 weeks earlier - BC latest 25 Aug
  2) larger and stronger team  18 climbers
                               16 Sherpas
  3) better equipment then any expedition has had on Everest - MacInnes boxes extra strong, planning on different route - left hard route - only 1 rock step of 300 ft at 27,500 ft rock band - from C5 and not C6 as on right hand - C6 at 27,800 ft above rock band and thence long traverse to Col (between South Summit and main Summit - thence on SE Ridge.

  Summit "logistically feasable early Oct - but depends entirely on how many periods of bad weather between 25 Aug and 30 Sept.

  So even if one delayed have chance as shown by Japanese getting to top from col

  MacInnes - this 3rd time on SW Face
  Scott
  Haston
  Bonington
  Burke
  Estcourt   2nd time

  If face defeats team "will take stock" re Col route.


  Stoodley and Richards - 3 May 75

  expedition trucks arrive today

  6" Ford trucks from Godfrey Davis, London 
  Left 9 April. Drove 24 hours/day whenever could; every day except 5 days, even last night drove till 12:30 am. Worst part of route for such long tracks was from Birgung to KTM except towards from Turkey onwards 

  7200m ex-Leeds
  7000m 
  2 hrs sightseeing and walk around Mashhard; plenty of sightseeing up Khyber Pass and at all Customs houses.

  2 times together all way - no major breakdowns

  Raft Stoodley, leader of Manchester Garages.

  20 tons expedition camps - 100-200 lbs to be flown out but food and equipment was including 180 oxygen cylinders and all gas fuel.

  1700 cc feet vol. each truck - down clothing sleeping bags and foam mattresses vacuam packed to reduce vol.

  Longest stop at Customs was 1 day at Buglaria-Turkey border - normal 3 days for commercial trucks because of sheer volume.

  3 drivers, stay 4 nights then take 1 truck back to England - allowed 28 days back

  Cargo flown to Lukla starting March or Tuesday. One truck stays on till end of expedition aand takes back equipment when expedition finished.

  Hamish, modified stronger box tents - summit assault camp box designed. Also improved lighter oxygen cylinders and regulators - down equipment tailored to fit shotgun shot at Allahabad. 

  Low bridge major problem especially in India - these trucks 13'2" - another hazard is low power lines.


  Nepal Mountaineering (Sagarmatha) Week Souvenir booklet - May 1978

  On the 24th Sept 1975 Doug Scott and Dougal Haston reached the summit of Everest by its South West Face. This was the fifth attempt to climb to climb the steepest facet of the worlds highest mountain and the British Everest Expedition had completed the climb in thirty days from BC.

  Our success the speed of our ascent was largely due to the tremendous support and enthusiasm of our sixty high altitude Sherpas and the fine leadership of Pertemba, our Sardar, and that of Ang Phu, our deputy Sardar. On the 26th Sept, Peter Boardman and Pertemba made a second ascent, though tragically another member of the team, Mick Burke, lost his life in the attempt.

  We also owed much to what we learnt from experience and advice of others who had been there before us. The Japanese were the first to attempt the South West Face, sending out a reconnaissance in the Autumn of 1969 and then a full scale expedition in the following Spring. They reached a height of approx 26,500 ft and were stopped by the principal barrier of the Face, a feature known as the Rock Band. This wall of rock stretches across the face at a height of between 26,500 ft and 27,000 and is between 500 ft and thousand feet high. The Japanese expedition attempted it at its left hand end where a gully appeared to give a path through it. In the Spring, however the slopes below the Rock Band were clear of snow, swept by stone fall and had ledges for camps.

  We had already sent all our gear and food by light aircraft to Lukla and it had then been carried by our Sherpas to the village of Khunde. This was the idea of Mike Cheney, who now manages the Sherpa Cooperative and who was to be my BC manager. He delegated all responsibility to the Sherpas and it was thanks to the efficieny of Pertemba and his collegues that over twenty tons of equipment were transported to Lukla without a single item being lost.

  Our own party reached Lukla on the 14th Aug; this was where we met up with our sixty high altitude porters prior to our march into the Everest BC which we reached on the 23rd Aug. We immediately started climbing the the Everest Ice fall and had established C1 at its head by the 28th Aug. Our initial success was marred by the tragic death of Mingma Nuru, a young deaf and dumb porter, who fell into a glacier torrent whilst carrying a load up to BC.

  C2, our advanced BC was established on the 2nd Sept. So far the weather had been as I had anticipated, with settled, cloudless and windless mornings and snowfall each afternoon. As a result there was an avalanche risk, both on the face and in the Western Cwm, but with careful judgement we could reduce this risk and were able to make fast progress untroubled by excessive wind and cold.

  It took us another forthnight to run a line of fixed rope up to the site of C5. We had chosen different sites from the past for each Camp. On the 16th Sept I moved up to C5 at a height of 25500 ft and on the 19th, Nick Estcourt and Paul Braithwaite, who had moved up the previous day, entered the gully at the left-hand side of the Rock Band and succeeded in finding a way through it, thus solving the critical problem of the South West Face.

  We were now in a position to make a summit bid and I had selected Dougal Haston and Doug Scott for the first attempt. On the 22nd Sept they moved up to C6, on the 23rd they ran out a line of rope towards the South Summit gully and on the 24th made their summit bid, reaching the summit at six-thirty  that evening. It had been a magnificient push comprising some difficult climbing and a struggle with very soft snow in the South Summit gully.

  They were rewarded with an incredible view of the sun setting amongst the monsoon clouds clinging to the foothills of the Himalaya.

  That night they managed to get back down to the col between the South Summit and the main summit, where they dug themselves a snow cave. This saved them from severe frostbite, though they both found this the coldest night they had ever spent. The following day they dropped back down to our Advanced BC, and our second summit team moved up to C6. Largely because of the magnificent support of our Sherpas, we were now able to make a second summit bid of climbers, one of whom was our Sardar Pertemba. We were also planning a third summit bid, in which Ang Phurba, one of our strongest and most talent Sherpas ws going to take part.

  The second bid was dogged by misfortune. Martin Boysen's oxygen system failed just after they set out from the top Camp and he was forced to return. Pete Boardman and Pertemba pressed on, assuming that Mick Burke, the fourth memebrs of the team had returned with Boysen. They made a fine fast ascent, reaching the summit at one o'clock in the afternoon, then just below the top, in fast deteriorating weather conditions, they met up with Burke, still on his way up the mountain. Burke continued on up towards the summit and was never seen again. Boardman and Pertemba waited for him on the South Summit, battered by a savage blizzard, and after three quarters of an hour were forced to assume that he had slipped on the way back down, since he should have only been a few minutes behind them. If they had waited any longer they would have been benighted and it is most unlikely that they would have survived such a stormy night.
  They just managed to get back themselves. The mountain was now in a very dangerous state and Mick Burke could not possibly have survived the night without any kind of shelter, even if he hadn't slipped and fallen. I therefore summoned every one down. We returned to BC with a whole mixture of feelings of deep sadness at the loss of a close friend and yet at the same time of real satisfaction in what had been a very successful expedition, not just in terms of climbing the mountain swiftly and smoothly, but also in terms of human relations, where our eighteen climbers and sixty high-altitude Sherpas had become united into a close knit team.


  Letter 19th Sept C2 from Adrian Gordon

  In a little over three weeks since arriving at BC, expedition leader Chris Bonington accompanied by Ronnie Richards established C5 at 25,500 on the South West Face of Everest on 16 Sept. This resulted from three days of exhausting trail breaking by the deputy leader Hamish McInnes, Dougal Haston, Martin Boysen and the Peter Boardman. Despite the staggering pack of the expedition to date, helped by good weather and the swift back up of the tons of food and equipment, the team is now in a strong position to prepare for a summit bid with in the next ten days.

  Indeed this evening Chris Bonington outlined his plans for the assault and named the first pair to attempt the summit as Dougal Haston and Doug Scott, both of whom have been more than two previous Everest expeditions and are amongst the strongest and most experienced climbers in the team. This decision had inevitably led to some disappointments amongst other climbers even though all have essential tasks in climbing the world's highest mountain. For instance Nick Escourt and Paul Braithwaite must force the never before climbed Rock band to establish C6 and Mike Thompson at C4 with a team of eight Sherpas has been responsible few supplying the lead climbers with food and equipment up the most lung bursting carries on the whole climb.

  While all these plans are being formulated, there are other problems which cannot be ignored. C1 situated on the lip of the Khumbu Icefall before it 3000 ft is continuously moving with the Glacier and may have to be completely resited. The routes through the Icefall itself and up the Western Cwm have to be continouslyt watered because of glacial movement and effects of heavy avalanches which continuously pour off Nuptse or the West Shoulder of Everest. Efforts which must be made to counteract these dangers require manpower which can effect both the flow of supplies up the mountain and availability of climbers.

  And never to be forgotten is the weather which could halt all movement above BC for days during a bad storm and cause irrepairable damage to equipment.

  The morale and humour of all climbers is high, but Everest defences cannot be underestimated.


expid: CHRW75301
peakid: CHRW
year: 1975
route1: W Ridge-W Smt
nation: Japan
leaders: Suemitsu Otsuka
sponsor: Hokei Alpine Club Himal Expedition
ascent1: 3rd
approach: Kaphe Khola
bcdate: 1975-09-12
smtdate: 1975-10-21
termdate: 1975-10-26
campsites:
  BC(12/09,4000m),C1(15/09,4550m),C2(22/09,5420m),C3(05/10,5920m),C4(12/10,6470m),C5(18/10,6930m),Smt(21/10)

routememo:
  4 now in KTM. Leave 25 or 26 Aug. Dr Abe arrives 5 Sept and follows quickly.


  Nagaoka - 6 Aug 75

  West Peak via West Ridge, same as spring 1975 (who originally planned Dhaulagiri IV).

  BC in Kaphe Khola about 4100m and route straight north to ridge.
  5 high camps, C5 about 7000m.

  2 members arrive KTM 5 Aug.
  3 others arrive 20 Aug. Leave for Pokhara 25 Aug by road.
  Leave Pokhara 1 Sept, arrive BC 15 Sept.
  Summit end Oct.

  4 Sherpas and 3 local porters above BC.
  Very small, very young expedition.


expid: DHA475301
peakid: DHA4
year: 1975
route1: W Col-W Ridge from S
nation: Japan
leaders: Kazuyuki Takahashi
sponsor: Kamoshika Dojin Dhaulagiri IV Expedition 1975
ascent1: 2nd-4th
approach: Pokhara->Beni->Myagdi Khola (BC)
bcdate: 1975-09-01
smtdate: 1975-10-19
smttime: 1935
campsites:
  BC(01/09,3450m),C1(03/09,4650m),C2(09/09,5250m),C3(15/09,5750m),C4(24/09,6200m),C5(5400m),C6(5350m),C7(6000m),C8(6900m),C9(18/10,7100m),Smt(19-21/10)

routememo:
  MP Khanal, MFA - 21 Sept 75

  C3 5750m 15 Sept.

  Schedule to make C4 about 18th-19th Sept
  (LO says from BC on 16th)


  Asaba & Yagihara - 2 Aug 75

  2 in KTM 
  Dr arrive 5th - famous climber main party on 7th Aug.


  Yagihara - 1975

  Route - Konaban Khola
  BC at 3450m
  Same as 1969, 1971 and 1973

  Leave KTM 13 Aug by road
  Leave Pokhara 15 or 16 Aug
  Arrive BC about 30 Aug
  Start climbing immediately. No avalanche danger 1st part of route since all ridge.

  Summit end of Oct, "I hope so."

  1 sirdar and 3 Sherpas
  Do think spring 1975 team reached summit. They very strong, Nakamura very experienced.


expid: KJRN75301
peakid: KJRN
year: 1975
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Akira Takiguchi
sponsor: Tokyo Getsuryo Alpine Club Himalayan Expedition 1975
bcdate: 1975-10-09
smtdate: 1975-10-29
termdate: 1975-11-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to fatal accident
campsites: BC(09/10),C1(13/10,4530m),C2(17/10,5350m),C3(23/10,5770m),C4(29/10,6300m),xxx
routememo:
  From Iwa-to-Yuki (1976)

  When strong winds ceased on Nov 4, two members left C4 for setting C5. Kiyotsugu Takato slipped down to Jagdula Khola for about 1500m by the crumbling of the snow under his feet. It was just the moment he untied the connecting rope in order to disentangle it.


  Takiguchi & Kobayashi - 6 Sept 75

  Will attempt SE Ridge of North Peak 6864m (never before attempted).
   
  BC 3800m
  4 higher camps
  C4 = 6300m
  Summit about 15 Nov

  Sirdar Aruna (arrive Kanjiroba 2 Sherpas with Japanese 1974 spring)
  Ang Temba (French Pumori summit)
  Cook Dawa Tsering
  Dr stays at BC


expid: ANNS75301
peakid: ANNS
year: 1975
route1: N Face-N Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yuji Sasaki
sponsor: Sendai Alpine Club of Japan
bcdate: 1975-09-13
smtdate: 1975-10-20
termnote: Abandoned due to unfavourable weather conditions and technical difficulties
campsites: BC(13/09,4100m),C1(28/09,5170m),C2(10/20/10,5800m),xxx(5800m)
routememo:
  Annapurna South - 22 Aug 75

  All members now in KTM to Pokhara 28? Aug by bus and truck. Leave Pokahra 2 days later and arrive BC 10th Sept at 4200m. 4 high camps with C4 at 6700m between North Main Peak and North Peak of Annapurna so route a new route via a North Main Peak and thence left (southwards) to N Ridge, or possibly N Face.

  Annapurna South has 3 peaks:
    1. 7219m to S of other 2 
    2. Central Peak 7150m
    3. N Peak 7080m perhaps
  Plus 6670m Main North Peak

  1964 route was up face between North Peak and Central Peak and scaled Central and Main Peak.

  Present Expedition Plan:

  Up face to minor route peak and thence so only to virgin N Peak. Will not attempt traverse.


expid: ANN175101
peakid: ANN1
year: 1975
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Gerd Gantner
sponsor: Austrian Annapurna I Expedition 1975
countries: Canada, W Germany
bcdate: 1975-03-24
smtdate: 1975-04-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6350 due to deep snow
campsites: BC(24/03,4200m),C1(28/03,4700m),C2(30/03,5500m),C3(06/04,6150m),xxx(05/04,6250m)
routememo:
  Gantner, et al. - 4 May 75

  Jaschke and Brunner still at BC with LO and kitchen boy; send mail only on 5th and 12th May. In KTM about 20 May; doing geological research.

  5 arrive today by bus. Schwarzenlander (leader) coming more slowly and arrive 8 or 9 May.

  C2 highest camp, a snow cave temp C3 established on 6 April at 6150m by Franz Tegischer and Sebastian Hoelzl; continued making fixed rope to 6250m and on 5th-7th actually carried loads to this point.

  10th - Gantner, Hoffmann, Schwarzenlander and Schmidl carried to C1; Schmidl down next day, other 3 up to snow cave. Gantner and Hoffman carried 13th above cave to while Franz to C2 and stayed with Schwarzenlander.

  13th snow started.

  14th snow all day, stayed where they were.

  15th snow all day, very bad visability, nearly 2m deep snow; tried to come down but too dangerous all fixed ropes buried in snow; decided stay up another night.

  16th clear. Gantner and Hoffmann decided to come down, but no radio contact with C2. Reached C2 from cave at 10:50 am mean while Schwarzenlander informed by radio they had been covered by avalanches he able free himself while Tegischer died. Schwarzenlander able to slash tent and got out - has some frostbite his fingers; no movement from Tegischer - such deep snow next am took 3-1/2 hours from cave to C2 and danger of more avalanche.

  Buried on 22nd in glacier at C2; before that all came down to BC waiting for snow to stabilize.

  Had not reached ridge yet; highest point was about 100m below ridge. 


  MP Khanal, MFA - 21 April 75

  Annapurna member Franz Tegischer, 27, killed by avalanche 16 April at 12:30 am (night time) in C2.

  Not decided whether to continue leader says. No mention of body recovery.


  Gantner - 7 Aug 75

  BC at 4400m to west of Tent Peak; climb onto North-South Ridge at about 5000m south of Fang.

  Basically rock and ice climb 45 to 50% slope onto ridge, then along SW Ridge to Annapurna I.

  7 or 8 high camps; no climbing oxygen (maybe sleeping) from Fang to Annapurna I 2-1/2 km.

  All over 7000m
  4 camps along ridge
  1 top of ridge
  1 before Fang
  1 after Fang

  Leave Sun 9th
  Leave Pokhara about 11th
  About 8-10 days to BC
  7 weeks climbing
  Mid-May on summit

  Most difficult part of climb is pillar onto ridge and objective danger of avalanching onto glacier (S Annapurna Glacier).


  Janzen - 6 March 75

  6 Sherpas and sirdar and 1 cook, 2 kitchen boys and 2 mailrunners.
  7 members here and 2 arrive 17 March.

  Leave 9 March by truck to Pokhara
  Leave Pokhara with 150 porters (3 tons). 
  Leave Pokhara about 11th and reach BC in about 10 days in same place as Annapurna South Face BC.


  Letter from Gerd Gantner - March 21, 1975

  The expedition members and the climbing equipment left KTM on the 10th of March at 9:OO am on two large trucks. We arrived in Pokhara at 5:00 pm. The 11th of March was used to adjust our loads into 30 kg porter loads. Just as we were finishing it began to rain very heavily along with a strong wind; maybe Annapurna was trying to tell us something? The porters were also arranged to come in the morning.

  From 8:00 am to 10:00 am we had given 152 porters their loads and a three-days advance. We had to pay each porter 18 NR per day because the other 3 expeditions had paid that much even though our route was suppose to be easier.

  Route to Machhapuchhare Base Camp

  March 12th Surkhet
  March 13th Khare
  March 14th Ghandrung
  March 15th Chomro
  March 16th Kuldi
  March 17th Hinko
  March 18th Machhapuchhare BC

  We had what all think was the ususual porter trouble, some not being able to carry any further because of pain or cold. There always seemed to be another porter there to carry two loads. Five porters carried twice between Hinko and Machhapuchhare BC. Twenty five porters said that they would carry loads up to our BC.

  On March 19th all porters went down to make two carries of firewood while Gerd Gantner, Franz Tegisher and Ernst Schwarzenlander each carried a load and located our Austrian Annapurna I BC at elevation 4200m.

  March 20th 6 porters returned to Pokhara while 6 members, 7 Sherpas and 19 porters carried to BC. The weather till today had been very good, clouding in the afternoon very little rain or snow then clearing by 7 or 8 pm. Today it clouded over by 11 am, started to snow and continued to snow until 7:00 pm.

  March 21st dawned clear and only clouded over at 3:00 pm, the usual time. Six members, 6 Sherpas and 19 porters carried loads to BC.

  March 22nd the last of the loads were carried to BC so we decided to move up from Machhapuchhare BC.

  Dr. Joerg Schmidl and Wastl Hoelzl arrived today.

  The 23rd dawned cloudy and windy so we decided to wait one day.

  The 24th the weather was still not very good, broken clouds, but we decided to move as Machhapuchhare BC ws getting crowded. The weather was on our side and so on March 24, 1975 we established the Austrian Annapurna I BC.


  Letter from G. Gantner, BC - April 9, 1975

  The morning of March 26th gave us about 1-1/2 feet of snow so we decided to take another day of rest.

  The 27th of March, the day we wanted to start the expedition above BC, the Sherpas decided that they didn't want to go any further with us. From 8:00 am ot 4:00 pm we tried to persuade them to stay with us, to no avail; after being paid for being with us for 21 days they returned to KTM with all their equipment. All seven Sherpas, the cook and two kitchen boys left us.

  Our liaison officer, Babu Ram Pun, tried very hard and we think he did an excellent job in trying to persuade the Sherpas to stay. But the Sherpas had made up their mind.

  C1 establish March 23, elevation 4700m, @13:00 hours.

  Established by 
    Ernst Schwarzenlander
    Franz Tegischer
    Barni Hoffmann
    Wastl Hoelzl
    Gerd Brunner
    Winfried Jaschke
    Joerg Schmidl

  The route follows the lower moraine for 1 hour then turns left in front of Annapurna south face and rises for 2 hours to a small knoll.

  C2 establish March 30 @12:00 hours, elevation 5500m

  Established by 
    Franz Tegischer
    Ernst Schwarzenlander
    Barni Hoffmann
    Wastl Hoelzl

  The route from C1 to C2 is through a glacier which seems to change from day to day. C2 lies on the upper side of the glacier at elevation 5500m and is about a 5-hour climb from C1. Because of the good weather the dangers of the glacier have been showing up through the melting snow. The route is dangerous with seracs on the glacier and also seracs hanging on Modi Peak above, but it is the safest of all the other possibilities.

  The weather had been good until last night (April 8th) strong winds and heavy snow caused minor damage to our camps.


expid: YALU75101
peakid: YALU
year: 1975
route1: S Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Siegfried Aeberli
sponsor: Expedition to Yalung Kang
ascent1: 2nd-4th
countries: W Germany
approach: Dharan->Yalung Glacier (BC)
bcdate: 1975-04-11
smtdate: 1975-05-09
smttime: 1200
termdate: 1975-05-20
campsites: BC(11/04,5500m),C1(13/04,6200m),C2(17/04,6650m),C3(21/04,7150m),C4(08/05,7800m),Smt(09,12-13/05)
agency: Annapurna Treks
routememo:
  Sturm - 3 June 75

  [All arrive today ex-Biratnagar].

  Summit dates and people of MFA report correct. Worked in 3 teams of 3 men each, taking turns about making route. Highest camp C4 at 7800m.

  No accidents, no frostbite, no avalanche damage.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 16 May 75

  12 May - 2nd summit 11:30 am - Helmut Wagner, Peter Vogler, Gerd Baur.
  13 May - 3rd summit 11:00 am - Guenter Sturm, Sepp Mayerl, Fritz Zintl

  Slight wind these 2 days but weather quite good.

  [record no of summiters on 8000m peak since 1965 Everest]


  MP Khanal, MFA - 12 May 75

  Success from South Face 9 May, midday by Michel Dacher, Erich Lackner and Rolf Walter.


  Dr. Curt Fischer - 9 May 75

  He arrivde BC 28 April and left 3 May and then had already the camp 26 or 27 April at 7600m. One 8000m oxygen deposit but not another camp; otherwise 1 more camp.

  All very strong especially Sturm, Lackner and Walter and Dr Zintl at C3. Very good relations with LO and Sherpas. Very good weather while Fischer there, but after left BC had 2 days rain so may be snow on mountain.

  Hope summit next week Yalung Kang definitely; are on South Face.
  Not used oxygen up to 7600m C4.

  May leave by 2 Pilatus Porters from Taplejung.


  Aeberli - 9 March 75

  Leave 14th road to Dharan and leave 16th March. 18-19 days to BC at 5500m, nearly same place at Evans in 1955. South Face of Yalung Kang, not Japanese ridge routes. 6-7 camps above base.

  Hope summit by middle May because long way back and it's first mountain to get the monsoon. 

  14 Sherpas including cook and kitchen boy.
  Don't know which part most difficult technically, since no photos of face.

  9000 kg baggage.

  Mail via Col. Angdi, Annapurna Trekking


expid: NUPT75101
peakid: NUPT
year: 1975
route1: Central Ridge of S Face
nation: UK
leaders: Major Jonathan W. A. Fleming
sponsor: Joint Army Mountaineering Assoc/Royal Nepalese Exped. to Nuptse
countries: Nepal
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1975-04-02
smtdate: 1975-05-09
termdate: 1975-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to two fatal accidents
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites:
  BC(02/04,5180m),C1(06/04,5485m),C2(10/04,5790m),C3(13/04,6100m),C3A(22/04,6220m),C4(25/04,6400m),C5(01/05,6870m),C6(06/05,7070m),C7(07/05,7160m),xxx(09/05,7200m+)

routememo:
  Fleming & Dilly - 23 May 75

  Dilly and Tim King leave 31 May. Rest leave KTM 4 June by TG to Singapore and Spanish leave 5 June by RAF to base at Brize Norton, Oxfordshire. All now in KTM.


  Fleming & Dilly

  Going up to C6 from C5. Snow in bad condition and avalanched on them and fell 200 ft to few feet from 2000 feet sheer drop that night at C5 avalanche hit and squashed tent. Fleming should have been in and would have killed him; had gone into other tent to discuss plans with other.

  Weather never let up with heavy snow every afternoon and 14th again.

  Every man one week at acclimatization camp; slow thorough acclimatization paid off very well indeed.

  Apart from 2 tragedies we had, 3rd tragedy was we were so close to top - was a walk from C7.

  Nuptse more technically difficult than Everest, perhaps including SW Face of Everest. Most difficult parts on Everest for British will be either Hornbein Couloir or Lhotse and both snow and ice. Problems not of same magnitude: Nuptse = technical and Everest = will-power.

  Although we failed to extent we didn't climb mountain but succeeded in that number with experience of Himalayas problem. Now have 1/2 of members going to 23,500 ft and above now known area, Sherpas, food and equipment as well as high climbing. This experience invaluable from Everest and this the point of this climb which has been a "rough rehearsal" for Everest.

  Fleming would like to climb Everest via West Ridge. "I think we're up to it; that Nuptse Ridge is frightful ridge which probably equal to Everest West Ridge."

  Everest West Ridge via American route; Lho La route too dangerous. West Ridge preferred to South Col because col has been done so often; ridge more of challenge. For Everest expect 25 from UK, 3 Nepal army and 6 climbing Gurkhas.

  Rope lending from lower body which is visable to other, Pasang in crevasse and not visable.

  Had weather allowed, Subedar Krishna Bahadur Karlo of RNAC and Pasang would have gotten to top.

  Brister and Pasang probably fell within 5 minutes of shouts with Stokes and Lavac before crossing rib.


  Lane - 21 May 75

  2nd attempt wasn't arrive on 12th or 13th because of heavy snowfall. We caught all the weather and Everest went Scott free, but there were couple days when we were coming down when all this wind made it hard ice (these would be 14th and 15th). Would have been a long day to summit and back from C6, that's with everything going for you; starting off at 5 and getting back at 4 or 5 pm.

  Route straight forward from C7 to top. "Slighter chance" of success if not heavy snowfall unmoved pair from C7 on 14 May. 

  Can only surmize 2nd body of 14th in crevasse above visable body. Thought could see rope from visable body upwards.

  At 4:15 pm Lane and Stokes same altitude as C6 23,200 ft at traverse and clouds lifted and L and S could see Brister and Tamang about 200 ft away (left and up) and shouted all Ok. 1 or 2 minutes lift and closed in and we were back in our own better place and that was it. Couldn't see or hear anything else. Lane and Stokes reached C5 at 8 pm. This when L got frostbite in his feet, one gets frostbite when tired and run down. 

  Lane and Stokes reached C6 at 5:40 pm where one was; glad went on to C5 where people were to come for them.

  Fleming had tried to get up to C6 on 13th to help summit teams out but route to C6 was not stable and he was avalanched out; had to retreat C5.

  14th was normal descent; "weather was bad but you get used to bad weather."

  Could have fallen at traverse on before it; traverse was only 4 moves protected all the way, nothing difficult about it.

  Stokes also same frostbite but not black; can't feel.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 16 May 75

  Missing: Lt. David Brister and Pasang Tamang since 14th May as their 2nd summit attempt prevented by heavy snow. All members were coming down to BC to regroup and restocking

  4 occupants in C7 (by 12th May presumably) but were when weather tried bad these in 2 pairs started to withdraw to BC in 1st hour interval of 14 May. 1st pair reached C5 on 14th late evening but 2nd pair did not. Believed by others might be resting in C6 which was empty of people but stocked. Heavy clouds prevented observation of descent. Also known that radio with Brister was defective. 

  On 15th, when no movement from C7, search party sent (no names); no trace found on 15th. 16th confirmed no trace of missing men in C6. Assumed dead, no trace. Helicopter for search requested. Climbing abandoned.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 15 May 75

  Bodies buried in crevasse this morning.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 15 May 75

  Heavy snow prevented 2nd summit attempt and expedition withdrawing yesterday to BC. Hope to regroup and restock camps to further summit attempts.


  Col J Lys, British MA - 12 May 75

  Don't know what happened really. 4 in summit party, Owens and Summerton pathfinders. A Nepali and another Briton in support.

  4 left high C7 on 9 May at 7:30 am; 10:30 am not seen any more. Waited until that evening to see whether return to camp.

  10th May 11:30 got signal hadn't returned and asked for search.

  11th May helicopter picked up Peacock at BC and took him up to glacier where dropped him at 19,000 ft and went to BC again and picked up Captain.

  [Lys breaks off to get his notes and returns to subject at earlier]

  Recce of glacier and saw one red sack at base of glacier; landed at 18,000 ft and Peacock got out. Then helicopter back to BC picked a Captain and took C1 17,500 feet and picked up rope and equipment for recovery and thence to glacier where joined Peacock and helicopter to BC 1 hour standby.

  Think may have been struck by falling rock and fell into ravine. Fell 4500 ft below where lit.

  1 Nepalese summiter injured and walking to BC.

  2 bodies seen from helicopter but unable to recover.
  Going to try for summit today if conditions permit.


  Secy, Khatri - 12 May 75

  Owens 
  Summerton

  Gone to conquer peak but never tied up; waited one day and then asked for helicopter; landed at BC and rode 2 from 2 different directions and intended to land on top itself if warranted.


  11 May

  2 new missing on Nuptse = Bernandette Vasseux from Major Lefloch.
  Helicopter went to Nuptse and returned today - Lafloch & Haines

  Names and details not known = Lys at 2 pm

  Something happened on Nuptse, nothing on Everest= MP Khanal at 2 pm


  MP Khanal, MFA - 8 May 75

  C6 May 6 - 23,000 ft
  C7 May 7 - 23,500 ft by Summerton, Armstrong, Brister
  by Krishna Bahadur, Pasang Tamang


  Kefford - 16 March 75

  Doctor arrived today. He and Kefford fly to Lukla Tuesday 18th. Main party left KTM 11:45 am yesterday and drove to Lamosangu.


  Jon Fleming - 13 March 75

  Walking in starting Sat except Kefford, doctor and Gurkha who flies in Monday. On to Dingboche for acclimatization camp. Main party reach Dingboche 28 March for 2 days and make BC on 31st on Nuptse Glacier about 17,300 ft (about east of Nuptse on map). Expect to climb via control route on South Face but haven't seen about 7 high camps yet; summit by mid-May at latest.
   
  3 Sherpas and 3 Gurkhas training for Everest. Most members this year would come next year. Next year via West Ridge = US route, not French route but up and down ridge only.


  Letter from J. W. Fleming - 26 Apr 75

  C3 at 19,800 ft was established by Cpls Stokes and Lane on the 12th April. The camp site is exceedingly small, being only large enough for two tents. It is a very exposed site perched upon a large block of rock embedded into the ridge.

  C3A, at 20,400 ft was established by Maj Fleming and Capt Agnew on the 22nd April. We had to set up this intermediate camp between C3 and C4 because the route along the ridge is long and tortuous. By the time a party from C3 had come to the end of the previous day's fixed ropes, it was almost time to turn back again to C3 before nightfall. Thus very little progress was made. The campsite is extremely small, only big enough for one small tent.

  C4, at 21,000 ft was sited by Maj Fleming and Capt Agnew on the 23rd April. One tent was put there today (26 April) and one will be put there tomorrow by Cpls Lane and Stokes. The camp will be occupied tomorrow (27th April) by  Capt Gifford, Capt King, Rfn Pasang Tamang, 7 Gurkha Rifles, and Subedar Krishna Bahadur, Royal Nepalese Army. This camp is of special significance because it marks the end of the very difficult ridge, which gives access to the upper parts of the mountain. The crux of the problem now is to stock C4 and to keep it stocked with stores, food and fuel for the activities on the upper parts of the mountain in early May.

  The weather conditions have not been good. The mornings generally have been fine and sunny, but the climbing has been hampered by a great deal of powder snow whch has fallen in varying quantities daily in the late afternoons/evenings.

  At the present rate of progress and provided that we can keep C4 stocked we expect the summit bid to be made around about the 7th to 10th May, weather permitting.

  The climbing conditions can hardly be described as ideal. The ridge although technically very interesting and demanding is composed of unstable snow and ice and rotten rock. The ridge is even honeycombed in places, so that one can see right through it onto the glaciers on the other side. The snow on the west side of the ridge, access to which is gained by means of a tunnel through the ice of all things, is sugary, unstable and rather dangerous.


  Major Jon Fleming

  We have now made the route up the Central Ridge of the South Face of Nuptse. On the 23rd April Agnew and Fleming climbed up the steep 300-foot snow and ice slope which gave out onto a little col. The ridge route had been cracked. Camp 4 had been sited. For a fortnight we had struggled and fought our way from C1 at 18,000 ft at the bottom of the arete to this crevassed, windswept little col at 21,000 ft. To begin with Stokes and Lane led the way with Brister and Armstrong fixing the rope behind them. From C1 to C2 the way led up a very steep snow and ice slope. 700 ft later the way led out onto the arete itself. As one moved over the lip the huge, black, squat mass of Makalu, on which an Austrian-German team are engaged, came magnificently into view. 2000 ft below lay the inhospitable, grey looking West Lhotse Glacier with the moraines winding down towards the valley of Dingboche. Turning left along the ridge and some 20 minutes later, situated under a huge rock block which we call the Mitre lay C2 at 19,200 ft. One of our problems on this ridge is to find flat places for camp sites. Relatively there are still two spaces which have obviously been prepared for tents. We have place two tents on the rock and one on the snow. Fortunately the tents are placed so that they are sheltered from the punishing west wind that we have been experiencing. In addition to the tents there is a certain amount of space for gear. All the equipment, food, fuel and impediments that we shall need for operations higher up the peak. The ridge rears up in front of the camp, narrow, twisty, rotten, whether of rock or snow and steep. C2 can now be stocked by the rest of the expedition. This gets us fit and acclimatises us for the higher altitudes.

  While this is going on Stokes, Lane, Armstrong and Brister press on to the next higher camp - C3 at 19,800 ft. The way to this site is the steepest part of the ridge. Up hard ice and some good, safe rock. It consisted of a crack in the rock about 60 feet high, at the top are overhanging boulders. This is not the sort of thing one expects to find in the Himalayas. It was certainly strenuous work as his crampons scrabbled ineffectively against the granite. In order to make the route porterable we have put a wire ladder up it. C3 is literally perched on a small ledge of snow atop a huge rock block embedded in the ridge. It is just big enough for two small tents and only just. In order to get from one tent to another we have to use a tight rope and even then are forced to walk on the snow valance of one of the tents. Agnew and Fleming with Stokes and Lane fixing the ropes and making the route porterable behind them. Up and up we climb, following the ridge sometimes on its crest, at others some 60-70 ft below the crest. Some of the traverses are awkward and thin. In order to make faster progress we had to put in an intermediate camp, C3 at 20,400 ft. This we placed in the Notch.

  There was only sufficient room for one small tent in this windy, rocky space. We levelled out the ground as best we could and spent a comfortable night. For the next two days we literally fought our way along the arete to C4, through masses of powder snow which fell every evening, thus blotting out the hard earned footsteps made that day.

  At last we came to the final snow slope and ascending it came out onto the little col. The site was more crevassed than I had expected, indeed it appears at first sight that the way up the mountain is effectively barred by a huge crevasse stretching the entire width of the col. On closer inspection, however, I believe that it can be turned on the left. Now plans have been made for movements beyond C4 and to the summit. But the crux of the whole problem is to stock C4 sufficiently for these movements and summit bid, and to keep people at that camp to support these activities. At the moment Stokes and Lane are making the route from C3A to C4 porterable. Gifford, King, Pasang Tamang and Krishna Bahadur are carrying stores from C3 to C4, but it is a long way and they have not always managed to get there, while Agnew and Fleming will be moving up to C3A tomorrow, thence to C4 on Monday 28th April. There they will be joined by Owens, Summerton, Gifford, King, Pasang Tamang and Krishna Bahadur for the final summit push.


  BC - 28th April 1975

  We established and occupied C4 on 26/27 April and are now stocking it up before starting out for C5 tomorrow. C4 is at the top of the Nuptse Central Ridge, which is a difficult bottle neck. This it is a most important camp, particularly as it represents the conquest of the most difficult technical climbing of the route. Everyone is now fully fit and going well so we hope to be poised for a summit bid in the next two weeks provided the weather remains favorable.


  BC Nuptse Exped - 22 April Letter from Neil [Winship]

  As forecast we established C2 on Thursday 10 April and have since then been battling up the awkward first central ridge. C3 site was reached on Sat 12 but not occupied till the following day. The ridge had proved demanding since then needing a good deal of difficult technical climbing with three different pairs of climbers leading for two days at a time Jon Fleming and Crispin Agnew are now at the front bivouacked between C3 and the intended C4 site. They hope to reach the latter tomorrow, 23 April. The remainder of the expedition are either improving route, ferrying up rations or resting at BC. All our initial minor ailments are finished but we have gained a strained apex muscle and a tooth abcess, the latter needing very minor surgery today. Some pain to the poor patient Charles Walshaw.

  The weather had remained clement and two minor snow showers have not seriously hampered us although regretably the sky seems to cloud over most days about midday. 


  May 1975 letter from Col JDC Peacock to MR Khanal
  Accident on Nuptse on 14th May 1975

  Following the accident on 9 May, when two members of the expedition fell to their deaths while making the first summit attempt on Nuptse, the remaining two occupants of C7, the top camp, were withdrawn to lower camps and replaced by four fresh climbers in order to make a summit bid planned for 12 May. The plan was for all four climbers to take part in this attempt but in fact the second pair of climbers did not reach C7 until 12 May and the attempt on the summit was therefore delayed.

  Heavy snowfall on the night of 12 May prevented an attempt on 13 May and Major Fleming, the Expedition Leader, decided to withdraw all climbers from the mountain in order to regroup with a view to a possible final summit attempt if conditions improved. Instructions were passed by radio to the climbers at C7 to this effect on the evening of 13 May. The walkie-talkie radio at C7 was not functioning well and these instructions were relayed from the leader at C5 by myself at BC. There is no doubt that the instructions were received and understood because they were acknowledged and in the event, acted on the following day.

  On the morning of 14 May the four climbers were seen from BC to leave C7 in two pairs, roped together and moving one at a time. The first pair left at approx 1030 hours and the second pair, who were Brister and Pasang Tamang, left C7 at 1145 hours.

  C6 was not occupied but was stocked with rations and fuel; C5 was occupied; Major Flemings instructions had been first the descending climbers to reach C5 if possible. The first pair succeeded in reaching C5 late on 14 May. Although all four climbers had been seen to leave C7, cloud obscured the face of the mountain for the rest of the day so that their progress could not be followed from BC and when Brister and Pasang Tamang failed to arrive at C5 it was assumed that they had stopped at C6 and that the defective radio had prevented communication with BC or other camps.

  On 15 May no movement could be seen from C6 and the two tents there appeared to be heavily covered with snow. However, it was assumed at BC that in the circumstances, it waws most probable that the climbers were recuperating before continuing the descent. By mid-day however there had still been no sign of the two climbers at C6 and a search party therefore set off from C5 towards C6.

  During the afternoon Major Fleming returned to BC, having left C5 on 14 May. Also during the same afternoon I observed through binoculars an object lying on the hanging glacier below the traverse between C6 and C7 at an altitude of about 22,000 ft. I thought that this object could have been a body but it was not possible to confirm this and opinions of various observers was divided. At 1630 hours, on the next radio schedule, I asked observers at C4 and C5 to look at this object. It could not be seen from C5 but it was reported from C4 to be a rock and not a body. Meanwhile the search party had returned to C5, having failed to reach C6 in the limited time available. There had been no response to their shouts but in view of the distance to C6 this was not unlikely.

  On the evening of May 15 Major Fleming instructed two climbers from C5 to climb to C6 the following day. These two, Captains Walshaw and King, reached C6 shortly after 1600 hours on 16 May and reported that both tents were collapsed and that there was no trace of the missing climbers. It was therefore assumed that they had never reached C6 on 14 May and must have perished on the descent from C7 to C6, for some reason at present unknown.

  Having still seen no movement from C6 on the morning of 16 May, I made a provisional request for a helicopter to make a search. This request was confirmed as soon as it was established that the missing climbers were not at C6.

  C6 is at approx 23,200 ft and C7 at approx 23,500 ft. The distance between these two camps is about half mile and is a snow traverse at an average angle of about 45 to 50 degrees. There is one rock outcrop about one third of the way from C6 to C7 which is quite awkward to cross; this is about ten feet across. The traverse between C6 and C7 had been made eight times by various pairs of climbers including the first pair of climbers to leave C7 on 14 May. Brister had made the traverse successfully three times before and Pasang Tamang had made it once before to C7 in company with Brister.

  17 May 75: The helicopter search has revealed that the object I saw is indeed a body. We could not find any trace of second body. We could not identify which body it is and it can not be reached one foot or recovered safely. We searched the face below and also photographed it in the hope that photos might reveal something.


expid: MANA75101
peakid: MANA
year: 1975
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Jaime Garcia Orts
sponsor: Expedition Espanola al Himalaya
ascent1: 7th
bcdate: 1975-03-29
smtdate: 1975-04-26
smttime: 1400
achievment: Photos confirm true summit
campsites:
  BC(29/03,3850m),C1(31/03,4950m),C2(01/04,5600m),C3(02/04,6500m),C4(21/04,7000m),C5(23/04,7500m),TrueSmt(26/04)

routememo:
  Arazzola & J. Lopez - 4 May 75

  Everyday have to make new steps; almost every afternoon snowing.

  Rivas and Miguel Lopez hoped to go to top 24 April but were really exhausted by effort crossing ice walls and weather not so good, so wisely went to C4 instead - planned go to C2.

  24 April Jeronimo Lopez, Blazqeuz and Sonam to C5 to go to summit 25th, but 25th not good weather and waited in C5.

  26th beautiful day and they started at 6 am for top. Went to top at 2 pm; on way found body of one Austrian member [Schlick or Jager] halfway in ice in such position seemed he died of exhaustion, 50m from near edge of summit plateau, 1-1/2 to 2 hours from C5; in yellow jacket. "All time going up we thinking of him." Ice axe 10m away from body. Very easy to lose way on plateau in clouds, impossible to make snowhole near them probably now.

  Route about same at Japanese women. Think their C5 little higher then Spanish C5.

  Return to C5 5:30 pm and then to C4 to sleep. 27th they went down to C2 and whole expedition then came down because more snow 26/27 night and Luis Durand in C4 has frostbite on foot from helping making route to C5 and Jeronimo Lopez frostbite both feet (will lose little). Difficult for Lopez to walk and called helicopter for 6 members and today Alfonso Arias Pacheco, Carlos Soria Fontan, Gerardo Blazquez Garcia.

  All in KTM except Jaime Garcia who comes later today or tomorrow.

  Success this time because pre-monsoon weather better. Did have many avalanches this time too but able to avoid them.

  Leave KTM about 7 May


  MP Khanal, MFA - 28 April 75

  26 April 2 members, 1 Sherpa Sonam summit.


  Letter from 18 Apr 75

  We arrived to C4 (7040m) and put there tents. But after, we have had a terrible weather, with huge wind and had snow at C1 and C2 about 2-1/2 meter snow.

  We have to open again the way to C3 and C4. If weather continued like today (beautiful weather).

  On 28th we arrived to Sama and on 29th we established the base camp, lower than last year at 3850m, the 31 Rivas, Soria, Blazquez and J. Lopez. 

  We began today our 5 days of walking. We have to stay at Lebu, and this night we shall sleep near the Doban Khola River.

  Weather is good, some days too warm. Until now all thinks all right.


expid: LHOT75101
peakid: LHOT
year: 1975
route1: S Ridge-W Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Riccardo Cassin
sponsor: Italian Alpine Club
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1975-03-29
smtdate: 1975-05-06
termdate: 1975-05-20
campsites: BC(29/03,5300m),C1(03/04,5950m),C2(11/04,6500m),C3(03/05,7200m),xxx(06/05,7500m)
routememo:
  5 Sept 79 

  Kunaver says they were on Nuptse, but see [below] Messner Aut 1979 here.

  Route really South Ridge on far left of face to West Ridge, similar to Japanese 1973 and 1976 routes.

  4 Sherpas injured by avalanche 20 April.
  C3 destroyed by avalanche 7 April.


  Messner - Aut 79, re Lhotse Spr 1975

  [Ales Kunaver had told me Italians actually climbed on eastern ridge of Nuptse's South Face].

  We reached top of big snowfield and start of rocks on face still part of Lhotse, east of lowest saddle between Nuptse and Lhotse, west of 7703m.


  Ales Kunaver - 5 Sept 79

  Italian Lhotse expedition actually never was on Lhotse: they went up on eastern ridge of South Face of Nuptse to top of snowfield and stopped climbing (walking) where rock began.


  Messner - 25 May 75

  Highest point reached was 7400-7500m on 6 May by Gogna and Barbacetto. Afterwards May 7 night avalanche hits C3 ocuppied by Leviti and Barbacetto. Avalanche air pressure destroyed camp and for 10 days too dangerous to go up to C3 because too much snow but C2 and C3 after that decided to stop. 

  South Face direct possible will be climbed in 20 years, biggest problem of Himalayas. 2 or 4 persons very well acclimatized up in 4-5 days in alpine-style and with lighter plastic tent equipment then presently available.

  South Face to left possible now with good weather.

  Cassin: made 6 expeditions and this 6th one. More problems: 2 avalanches and sick doctor and 1 month every base camp 2 avalanches 20th April and BC moved; 4 Sherpas not badly hurt.

  After 1 week saw direction too dangerous with expedition.


  MP Khanal - 16 May 75 (from LO on 15 May 75):

  Lhotse abandoned from 15th due bad weather (7400m assumed highest). Leave BC 20 May.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 13 May 75

  After reaching 7400m altitude, weather became very bad and all members and Sherpas have come down to BC and have not yet decided whether to abandon climbing or not. Leave BC 20 May.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 9 May 75

  Route up to 7400m prepared to C4 on 7 May. Avalanche again at 9 pm. 2 tents C3 slightly damaged, but Leviti and Gogna escaped unhurt.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 30 April 75

  Heavy snowfall hampering progress to C3.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 25 April 75

  Lhotse resumed climbing on 23 April. 3 members and 6 Sherpas started up. Injured Sherpas recovering well.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 22 April 75

  Lhotse LO reports their BC being transferred to safer place. All members and Sherpas busy with this. Injured Sherpas being taken to Khunde Hospital.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 21 April 75

  Avalanche on Lhotse injured 4 Sherpas at BC 20 April at 6 am:
    Pasang Norbu
    Ang Chetar
    Lhakpa 
    Puncha Kitar


  Chierego (In Ktm) - 9 April 75

  Letter from Cassin received yesterday:

  6500m 6 April, 1st and 2nd camps established. Route not very easy but is possible. Began to climb by Japanese route [hope in a month to return with victory]. All climbers in good conditions. BC is already finished (completely stocked).

  Chierego had edema and pneumonia; stays in hospital still; hopes to leave KTM after 5-6 more days.

  Piussi left KTM 4 days ago returning to expedition.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 7 April 75

  C2 6300m 6 April by 2 members and 2 Sherpas (no name given).


  Gogna & Cassin - 16 March 75

  18 March all will be in Lukla
  8 already there (3 Sat 5 today)
  7 in KTM now

  1st group in Namche on 18th and wait there for others. All reach BC 23-25 March; better not to go fast.

  10 Sherpas including sirdar.


  Gogna - 8 March 75

  Fly to Lukla after 1 week. To BC at end of Lhotse Glacier on west side at 5300m before 25th March.

  Not same as Japanese 1973 whose route was to Col on ridge but Nuptse and Lhotse. Italian will 1st try South Face direct to Main Peak. Not really interested in Intermediary Peak but could go that way if better climbing; could also go Japanese way if direct not possible.

  6 or 7 high camps; summit about 20-23 May.

  South Face is quite like Annapurna I South Face, same difficulty. Faces unclimbed in world others are South Face of Everest and North Face of K2.


  Cassin - 4 Oct 74

  Lhotse 1975 South Face
  15 members including Reinhold Messner

  Riccardo Cassin (Lecco, Italy) to be leader
  13 alpinists
  1 leader
  1 deputy


  Letter from Lhotse BC, April 2nd 1975 by Riccardo Cassin

  Italian Lhotse expedition decided to try a new route in the western section of Lhotse South Face, which was attempted by a Japanese party on spring 1973.

  In the last two days it was reached the place in which tomorrow we will establish our Camp 1, at 6000m.

  All the climb is equipped with fixed ropes. It is lightly snowing every afternoon.

  Our doctor, Mr. Chierego, was evacuated today from Dingpoche to KTM. He was sick by "edema polmonare." Another member, Mr. Piussi, flied with him to KTM.


expid: PUMO75101
peakid: PUMO
year: 1975
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jean Lescure
sponsor: French Expedition to Cholatse
ascent1: 6th
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1975-04-03
smtdate: 1975-04-30
smttime: 1330
termdate: 1975-05-07
campsites: BC(03/04,5350m),C1(11/04,6000m),C2(23/04,6500m),C3(29/04,6700m),Smt(30/04)
routememo:
  Jean Francois Bernardin - 10 May 75

  Yesterday with Pilatus Porter very clear. Went very close to summit (10m away) and 100m below; sure absolutely nothing on summit. Went 3/4 around Pumori.

  Jean saw again the "pick" and just below saw tracks all around this pick; maybe something happened here.

  Today with army helicopter but weather very bad, i.e., clouds which had to go around. Up on Pumori clear but clouds climbing from valley. Helicopter could not go as high as wished because warm temperature (-5 degrees C instead of -20 degrees C), but saw very clearly 5000-6400m section and saw nothing at all. Could not see picture very clearly, could not go that high.


  Mrs. Bernardin - 10 May 75

  Today helicopter went again to Pumori and again found no traces of her husband. Clouds forming in area and weather very warm, grave danger of avalanches.


  J. F. Bernardin - 8 May 75

  Lescure was near Lobuche where expedition slept last night. Brought to KTM today. Did not search mountain again because clouds beginning to form.

  Rest of expedition arrive KTM from Lukla 11 May.

  Went to Thyangboche on way back to leave prayers for Ang Kami.
  Philippe Bernardin was J. F.'s younger brother.


  Jean Lescure - 8 May 75

  Philippe Bernardin and Ang Kami slept C1 30th April.

  1 May: Lescure passed Bernardin and Ang Kami between C1 and C2 and they going well. Told both to take biv, tent and small gas heater and ice "pick" because last part much steeper then had thought. Said to Bernardin it's long and tiring journey. Should leave from C2 (one 2-man tent) instead of C3. C3 not very comfortable because had to dig into snow for place for tent and powder snow falling from ridge. Put C3 there when very bad weather with big wind in big hurry.

  Bernardin had no walkie-talkie with him. He did not sleep in C2 because silly to sleep in C3 and B very careful and precise man. 

  2 May Lescure at BC. Very beautiful weather in morning and expecting return. At about 12:30 spotted Bernardin and Ang Kami going up; climbing easily and steadily 1/2 hour from summit.

  Until 12:30 weather nice then above 6900m covered with clouds. As usual on Pumori very strong winds also came up and moved clouds very fast. Clouds closed in on Bernardin and Ang Kami like Mallery and Irvine.

  5 pm weather cleared for few minutes. Lescure saw nothing in this clear moment. At that time Lescure could see entire ridge and Bernardin and Ang Kami should be on ridge at that time, but perhaps by then they were behind ridge out of sight from BC. Not worried for might be in C3. Very strong wind with beginning of clouds probably blew one off balance and pulled other with him.

  3 May very beautiful weather in am. 2 Sherpas went to C3 Kami Rita and Mingma Norbu from C2 on 3rd (from BC 1 May and from C1 on 2nd) to dismantle C3 and help others (pre-arranged) and could see them going up. 2 Sherpas went to C3 and dismantled it and 4:30 pm were seen from BC at C1. When Lescure saw only 2 descend, realized Bernardin and Ang Kami not there.

  At 5:00 De Nuncques and Clemenson went to Namche and walked all night to request helicopter. At C3 found one tent with no sign that Bernardin and Ang Kami had been there.

  From helcopter saw pile; right under summit in snowy triangle at 7050m. Probably Bernardin and Ang Kami had reached summit and on way back were caught by tempest and had left pile above them when no longer needed.

  Did not see red biv tent; was searching for it from helicopter but did not find it even when went very close to mountain in helicopter.

  All members well; 1 Sherpas not well and being looked after.

  Route same on Japanese 1973; saw Japanese ropes in the ice. 

  No earlier summit bid than that of 30 April.
  No other accidents.


  Rill Dykes - 5 May 75

  25 minutes around mountain up to 22,000 ft (C3 altitude)

  Leader with him in helicopter. Picked up at Gorak Shep. Tomorrow badly wanted to go over smooth snow top but aircraft service ceiling 20,000 ft. Saw no one but did see C3 red tent.

  No one climbing on mountain; about 6 at BC abandoned hope = Bill's impression.


  Snigh, RSS - 4 May 75

  Philippe Bernardin and Ang Kami Sherpa went for summit on 17 Baisakh 30 April.

  On 19 Baisakh = 2 May from BC saw them at 12 noon near summit and later that became cloudy with bad weather could no longer been seen.

  20 Baisakh watched again and leader requested helicopter for search tomorrow.


  Bernedette Vasseux - 2 May 75

  Philippe left BC 30 April with 1 Sherpa to try summit tomorrow or day after.

  Leave  BC   6 May
  Arrive KTM 12 May
  Leave  KTM 15 May


  MP Khanal, MFA - 2 May 75

  30 April 2 teams reached summit from SW Ridge 13:30 hours:

  1)  Mrs Claudine Lescure
      Philippe de Nuncques
  2)  Leader Lescure
      Sirdar Mingma Tsering, 40

  C3 29 April 6750m; started from C3 5:30 30 April.


  21 April 75

  Left BC 19 and reached KTM yesterday. To Shyangboche tomorrow. On 19th were at 6140m. Keep week of entire expedition in between 6140m and 6300-6400m; if manage this part will reach summit.

  Probably now at 6300-6400m with C2 there. 2 granite towers very high and vertical which must be by passed. From C1 can see route very easy about C2 site. 


  Mrs Bernardin - 10 April 75

  She reached BC on yak and with expedition on 3rd and left 4th. All members are well except for 1 member Boissy had bad stomach trouble and went down to below and returned to BC on 4th because of boredom but probably not fully recovered.

  Bernardin left BC early am 6th and saw climbers moving up rapidly. Are climbing route they expected to use; difficultly appeared also what expected. They think route not dangerous since on ridge and no avalanche risk.

  1st day at BC very strong wind so built 2 stone houses. Leader gave Sherpas some training in technique climbing.

  Expect to reach top; hope everybody will reach top but not sure. Hope by end April since now booked to leave Nepal 14 May.

  Mrs Bernardin leaves Nepal 14 April and goes directly to France. Has right foot in cast from very bad twist (not break).


  Letter from Philippe Bernardin

  We had some trouble with the weather and we are little late on our planning. A party composed of Jean Lescure, Claudine Lescure, Philippe Degouve and Mingma Tsering are today establishing our C3 at about 6750m and probably tomorrow  will try reach the summit.

  Unhappily there was a very little terrace to implant our C2 and we were able to put only one tent for two persons.

  Our Sherpas are very efficent and through up to C3.

  Everything is working well unless the weather, last week was not so good, and one member Jean Clemenson was obliged to come back to Khunde Hospital for a toothache. We yet arrived at something like 6500m on the ridge we have there all the material for C2 and we are looking for a good place to situate this camp. Unfortunately we found yet not any platform. Anyway, our C2 will be established rapidly, probably tomorrow. We already think to C3.


  Letter 12 April 75 from Philippe Bernardin

  Our expedition is going smoothly: 3,4,5 of April - installation of the base camp. 
  6th  April Philippe Degouve and Clemenson climb up to 5800m
  7th  April Jean Lescure and Mingma Nuru climb up 6100m (50m under the south pass 
       on the ridge)
  8th  April Philippe Degouve, Clemenson were on the ridge.
  9th  April bad weather
  10th April perhaps?
  11th April the first camp is situated and equipped at 6000m in rocks on the left 
       hand of the glacier from the south pass. 

  Now we are equipping the fine snow and ice ridge of the pass to reach the rocks of SW Ridge. Everyone is well.


  Letter from Philippe

  This is our marriage of our 4th camp in Lobuche. Next day we will be in base camp. Everything is right; only some headache from time to time.

  Probably you had some news by Bernedette Vasseux; the only accident was a Dzo falling on a icy track and twisting the leg. It was necessary to help it back 1 kilometre to some flat place and the doctors tried to put the leg right - after it.


expid: CHRW75101
peakid: CHRW
year: 1975
route1: W Ridge-W Smt
nation: Japan
leaders: Shinichi Nakajima
sponsor: Meiji University Himalayan Expedition 1975
ascent1: 2nd
approach: Pokhara->Kali Gandaki->Myagdi Khola->Kaphe Khola
bcdate: 1975-04-07
smtdate: 1975-05-13
smttime: 1600
campsites: BC(07/04,4100m),C1(11/04,4700m),C2(5600m),C3(6150m),C4(06/05,6500m),C5(12/05,7050m),Smt(13/05)
routememo:
  Nakajima & Hamaguchi - 5 June 75

  Climbed West Ridge to West Peak; Hasegawa and Kono arrived 13 May. 

  C5 at 7000m very difficult rock route from C5 to top.

  Summiters had to biv after summit on 13 May at about 7170m; reached top 4 pm from C5 at 5:30 am; no tent or sleeping bag for biv, only clothing. Biv place very luckily rock cave and no wind or snow - outside. Reached C3 at 6:30 pm 14 May.

  C5 established 12 May by summiters and 2 others Asa and Pemba Lama Sherp.

  2nd attack 14 May by Kando, Sakamoto and Pemba Lama unsuccessful; reached biv site 5 pm and next day very tired and very dangerous because their fatigue and bad weather; left C5 5:30 am on 15th and they came down.

  All rock climbing, very difficult; fixed rope 3000m and 3 rope. 

  Ladders from C1 to C5 almost all way; same route as Italian 1969 and Japanese 1974

  No accident, no frostbite; all members here today and all well.
  Strong team and good weather cause of success.

  "Our team is very strong" - 10 members

  1st planned Dhaulagiri V by north, but this route closed and so now go to Churen; on 15 Dec 1975 chose Churen Himal.


  Nakajima & Hamaguchi - 7 March 75

  Leave KTM tomorrow by road to Pokhara; caravan start 13th March; 2 weeks to BC at 4100m (same as site as Dhaulagiri IV BC).

  Route same route as last spring: West Ridge to West Peak
  6 high camps, C6 on ridge at 7000m
  Summit attack about 10th May 
  6 Sherpas including sirdar


expid: HIME75101
peakid: HIME
year: 1975
route1: SW Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Hidezumi Komi
sponsor: Senshu University Himalchuli Expedition 1975
bcdate: 1975-03-27
smtdate: 1975-05-03
termdate: 1975-05-11
termnote: Abandoned at 6750m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(27/03,3930m),C1(31/03,4950m),C2(12/04,6050m),C3(25/04,6400m),xxx(03/05,6750m)
routememo:
  Kase & Ueda - 15 May 75

  SW Face route different. Very difficult for load carrying to 6600m.

  C3 = Keio Univ's C4 altitude but not same place; their routes for highest point reached 6750m.

  3 May by Hosoi and Kose, Ueda and Suzuki, then loads not coming up. "I think our party no power." Route difficult and 10 Sherpas not used properly and also were afraid of routes great difficulty.

  No accidents, no frostbite, very big avalanches but C1 and C2 but no one hurt: 6 am 3rd or 5th April very near route which was very steep and up icefall.

  All members here in KTM 3 days then disperse.

  Sherpas not carrying above C3; making route above C3, 1 Sherpa only present.

  Komi: heavy snowfall also problem, no porters available.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 9 May 75

  Himalchuli abandoned 21 Baisakh = 4 May, bad weather.
  28 Baisakh leave BC for KTM.


  Kase, Terada and Suzuki - 5 Feb 75

  3 now in KTM, rest arrive 27 Feb and leave March by Pokhara raod to Marshyangdi Khola crossing and to BC on there end March at 5000m.

  5 or 6 high camps
  SW Face route, C2 to C6 


expid: PK2975101
peakid: PK29
year: 1975
route1: E Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiroshi Maeda
sponsor: Hyogo Mountaineering Association Nepal Himalayan Expedition
bcdate: 1975-03-31
smtdate: 1975-04-30
termdate: 1975-05-06
campsites: BC(31/03,4000m),C1(06/04,5140m),C2(13/04,5740),C3(27/04,6250m),C4(28/04,6850m),xxx(30/04,7200m)
routememo:
  Maeda, Matsunoto & Iwai - 24 May 75

  Highest point 7200m on 30 April by Suwa, Ichino and Simoyama. C5 would have been at about 7500m and last camp.

  Big block ice broken above and avalanche with new snow from 7400m on 1st May 1 pm. Hit C4 and lost H-A equipment and all oxygen and 1 tent broken. Sato carried in snow slide 30m from C4 and Tamai inside tent, buried but got out. Sato dug out Tamai (Sato was outside clearing way snow and could save Tamai).

  Next day, route-making time: 3 fresh men came up to make route. Ice block broke off and fell with new snow which went over Tamai, who making route and covered head with rucksack.

  Iwai and Matsui up to C3 to C4 on 1 May decided wait 3 days but weather not good with heavy snow every day with 50 cms daily; routes rope and flags buried. All C4 men down to C3 2 May to await a good weather but not come good weather. May 4 decided finished.

  No other accidents, no frostbite.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 7 May 75

  Abandoned 5 May due to continuous bad weather. Reached 7200m. Lost some equipment in avalanches.


  Kazuo Ichino - 1 Feb 75

  Now only Ichino in KTM, others arrive 5 March and leave KTM 10 March by road to Trisuli and same caravan route to BC at 4100m about 24-25 March.

  Route East Ridge - this 1970 expedition was successful.

  6 high camps - C6 7600m 
  Summit 5-6 May
  8 Sherpas including sirdar and 5 local HA porters = 14


expid: DHA575101
peakid: DHA5
year: 1975
route1: S Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Eiichi Umeki
sponsor: Okayama University Nepal Himalaya Expedition
ascent1: 1st
approach: Pokhara->Beni->Darbang->Myagdi Khola
bcdate: 1975-03-01
smtdate: 1975-05-01
smttime: 1200
termdate: 1975-05-11
othersmts: Climbed Tsaurabong Peak via E Ridge (TSUR-751-01)
campsites:
  TempBC(01/03),BC(13/03,4800m),C1(22/03,5300m),C2(03/04,5900m),C3(20/04,6400m),C4(26/04,7000m),Smt(01/05)

routememo:
  Umeki - 13 May 25

  Umeki and Karo left 5th May and arrive KTM 10th May; others arrive 24th or 25th with equipment.

  No accidents, no frostbite, no Sherpa trouble; many members climbed White Peak 6300m from there very long, narrow difficult ridge and at high altitude; most difficult part 1st to reach top White Peak (Yamasaki).

  On 17th April, 3 days before C3 established C4 at 7000m higher placed so no need for C5. Summit 1st May noon by Moiroka and Pemba Tsering with 3 men up to 7480m in support making route for descent and film from C4.

  1st May 3 men left - Ishihara, Ogura, Kuroda

  No other summit attempts.

  Wait in Kathmandu for main party.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 7 May 75

  Summit 1 May 12:00 hrs.
  Masaki and Pemba Tsering
  Nepal and Japanese flags
  Another attempt not known.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 9 April 75

  3 members and 2 Sherpas established C2 at 5900m on 3 April (no names given).


  Umeki - 10 Feb 75

  Leave KTM 12 Feb
  Leave Pokhara 15th Feb 
  14 days caravan. South Ridge route.
  15 Sherpas including sirdar. Summit about 30th April-1 May.
  1 press member who stays BC.


  Kawaguchi, et al - 27 Jan 75

  3 on 14th Jan - other 18 4th Feb

  Climbers leave Kathmandu 12 Feb (8th Feb, 4 medical group leave)

  Total 21 -  4 medical
           -  2 geographical
           - 13 climbers
           -  1 doctor
           -  1 general leader

  By road to Pokhara and leave there 15 or 16 Feb via Myagdi Khola to BC southeast of Dhaulagiri V on Tsaurabang Glacier.

  Route is South Ridge

  1st attempts on D-V in 1971, both by South Ridge, both Japanese and unsuccessful. 

  This expedition's recce party last year spring climbed White Peak (6300m) to 5000m.

  This expedition will climb White Peak and thence north on ridge, really South Ridge route; earlier expeditions tried via much steeper slopes north of White Peak onto South Ridge.

  4-week caravan; reach BC mid-March; BC 4200m; 5 high camps with C5 at 7200m
  Summit beginning of May 
  15 Sherpas for climbing including Sirdar.
  Medical team go to BC area and then southern Nepal; geologist to stay in BC.


expid: BAUD75101
peakid: BAUD
year: 1975
route1: E Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Shozo Kikuchi
sponsor: Hirosaki Overseas Climbing Club Himalayan Expedition
bcdate: 1975-03-21
smtdate: 1975-04-13
termdate: 1975-04-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6315m due to bad weather
campsites:
  BC(21/03,3530m),C1(31/03,4600m),C2(08/04,5430m),C3(10/04,5910m),C3.ABC(12/04,6215m),xxx(13/04,6315m)

routememo:
  Kikuchi - 4 May 75

  Kikuchi and Tsushima arrived yesterday by helicopter. Ono frostbite both hands mostly 3rd fingers, Tsushima right 3rd finger. Neither will lose anything; happened descending from C3.ABC at 6215m.

  16 April snowfall 2m one night and C3 no food. Summit day planned for 14 April but this day and next heavy snowfall. 

  5-man party would go to summit 14 April:
    Sakai
    Kudo
    Sirdar Dawa Wuncha
    Ono
    Tsushima

  Making route for descent; other 3 no frostbite.

  From C3.ABC 2-3 hours to summit.

  C3.ABC pitched by all members 12 April.

  13 April 5 in C3.ABC; made route to about 6315m, very difficult here, very soft, deep snow up to chest (1-1/2m).

  Route not original plan of SE Ridge, but East Face of 1970 expedition because ridge too much snow upon arrival at mountain (no BC change).

  Kikuchi wanted to continue climbing, but no food and 2 members frostbitten so stopped 21 April.
   
  Other members 6 May arrive KTM by trucks with baggage.
  Ono and Tsushima leave maybe 5 May; others including leader 23 May.

  Kikuchi brings another expedition to another higher peak in Nepal in 1977.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 30 April 75

  Due to continous bad weather, climbing abandoned since 21 April; plan to leave BC 28 April for KTM.


  MP Khanal, MFA  - 30 March 75

  BC 3500m 21 March, Upper Chuling Khola, plan to start climbing 25 March.


  Hisanori Sakai - 1 Feb 75

  2 now in KTM; all 4 others arrive 27 Feb.
  Will climb via SE Ridge, same route as Japanese 1971 expedition.
  Leave KTM 6 March by road to Trisuli; leave Trisuli 14th March.
  2 weeks to BC at 4000m; 3 high camps, C3 about 5900m
  Summit about 20 April, hope all members on top 
  2 Sherpas including sirdar


expid: DHA275101
peakid: DHA2
year: 1975
route1: E Ridge
route2: S Face (to 7300m)
nation: Japan
leaders: Nobuyoshi Kobayashi
sponsor: Tokyo University of Agriculture & Technology Himalayan Exped.
approach: Pokhara->Beni->Darbang->Myagdi Khola
bcdate: 1975-03-24
smtdate: 1975-05-16
termdate: 1975-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to lack of campsite for C4
campsites:
  TempBC(24/03,3600m),Dep(28/03,4400m),BC(06/04,5000m),C1(14/04,5300m),C2(20/04,5800m),C3(01/05,6700m),xxx(16/05,7300m)

routememo:
  Kanasugi - 3 June 75

  Kanasugi, Yamaguchi and Kawashima arrived today. No place above 6700m for campsite; were climbing South Face, not East Ridge which was too steep rock and no place for camps. On South Face put 3 camps and then again some problem of camp site. Reached about 7300m on 16 May by Ojura and Yamaguchi. Used so many days to fix rope up to this point and above this point (avalanche 50-55 degrees) still no place. Every day snow and avalanches from 1st May between C2 and C3.

  South Face possible if special equipment; need a C4 to reach summit.

  Others reach Pokhara tomorrow with baggage (except leader in Tokyo). All well. No accidents, no frostbite.


  Kobayashi - 19 May 75

  Expedition leaves BC 25 May. Kobayashi meets in Pokhara, he leaves KTM 20 May; he arrives KTM 17 May after leaving BC 10 May.

  10 May expedition C3 at 6700m and reached 7000m - C4 maybe; very steep to site at 7500m.

  Climbing by snow and ice South Face not East Ridge which is very difficult; near summit reach South Ridge.

  All members very well, no accidents. 
  Some local porters say see yeti.

  Hope expedition will succeed but not much time left.

  Kobayashi reached 7000m and from there route appeared no so difficult to top; reached there making route on 4 May with Ojima (they 1st to reach that altitude).


  Umeki, leader Dhaulagiri V - 13 May 75

  Above and C3 very steep ice 1000m or more; maybe not make C4, but use biv and from there to summit; no accidents so far.

  Base camp near Dhaulagiri V BC.


  Tanaka - 11 Feb 75

  1 member (Tanaka) arrived KTM
  3 members arrived KTM 27 Feb
  1 KTM resident last year

  Leave KTM 5 March to Pokhara by road with 2 catching up. Caravan ex-Pokhara 10 March with 100 porters.

  Arrive BC 20 days via Myagdi Khola - at turn left south of point 4996 
  Dhaula Himal map and BC on glacier beyond P 4996 - BC 4700m 

  Route via SE Ridge from South; reach ridge half way between Dhaulagiri II and point 6559; very difficult route; all others approached from north. This 1st attempt from south (not from S just because closed; takes much money for north side because long caravan requiring many porters).

  5 high camps - C5 7500m summit 10-20 May

  5 climbing Sherpas including sirdar, 1 kitchen boy, 1 butcher and 1 mailrunner.
  Kobayashi, Kato and Kawashima arrive KTM 16 March; [they saw Khanal] arrive 19 March.


expid: DHA475101
peakid: DHA4
year: 1975
route1: Junction Pk-W Ridge from SW
nation: Japan
leaders: Tetsuya Nomura
sponsor: Osaka Mountaineering Federation Dhaulagiri IV Expedition
ascent1: 1st
bcdate: 1975-03-24
smtdate: 1975-05-09
smttime: 1730
termdate: 1975-05-18
termnote: Success claimed by radio, but summiters died on descent
accidents: Kawazu and Yasuda died in fall on 10 May; Kodama broke arm 7th May when wind struck C6
campsites:
  BC(24/03,4200m),C1(06/04,4700m),C2(08/04,5200m),C3(10/04,5800m),C4,C5(22/04,6800m),C6.Relay(7000m),C7(05/05,6950m),Biv(08/05,7150m),Smt(09/05)

routememo:
  Kodama & Yokoyama - 16 May 75

  Arrive KTM Today; left BC 10 May - others arrive 27 or 20 May (leave BC 18 May).

  6 May - 1st summit attack by Fujiwara and Yamamoto; no success because very strong wind and route very difficult; they reached 7300m and returned to C6 at 70000m where also were Kodama, Otsu and Nakamura.

  7 May - C7 Ham tent broken and on Kodama's left hand some fingers frozen; only one tent C7 tent replaced by C5 tent and all 5 down.

  9 May - Summit attack reached summit 5:30 pm; weather "little good." Talked on radio to relay camp at about 7000m with Shin Kashu and he relayed messages to Nishimura at BC (Nomura did not return to expedition).

  Kawazu says at 8 o'clock 5:30 pm success and going down, but Yasuda very weak and now biv at 7400m.

  10 May - No contact. Kashu and Nima Kancha in relay camp go up for rescue and find nobody at C7 site 69500m and back with binoculars but see nothing. But 1000m downwards on South Face on glacier 2 bodies can be seen. Could not go to bodies because very difficult. So all members came down and climbing finished.

  C6 Relay camp on West-East Ridge between point 6921m and 7108m. C7 on ridge beyond point 7108m towards Dhaulagiri IV. Route was traverse North Face via ridges from relay camp to C7 to summit.

  All other members Ok. Kodama and Yokoyama go to Japan Monday.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 16 May 75

  Kawazu and Yasuda reached summit 9 May 5:30 pm from temporary C6 at 7000m. Could come down only 200m and biv that night. Contacted BC by walkie-talkie and informed of success and could not descend more 200m. No more radio contact after that. Slope slippery ice and dropped rucksack and food stuff that evening. Leader assumes they stayed night at same place 7400m. 

  Next day no radio contact. 1 member and 1 Sherpa went up from C7 but didn't find them and returned back; coming back they saw black objects about 1000m below on glacier; saw by telescope.


  MP Khanal - 16 May 75

  1st attempt failed. C7 made 5th May by Fujiwara and Yamamoto.

  Made attempt but failed because bad weather. 2nd pair started from C7 on 8 May, but went up only 200m and bived. 
   

  Nomura - 23 March 75

  Nomura arrived KTM yesterday. Returned because of stomach trouble, for which he going to Japan for treatment. May return to Nepal after 2-3 weeks and helicopter to BC. But climbing leader capable of directing expedition. Nomura leaves KTM for Japan tomorrow.

  Expedition should reach BC on 27 March; he turned back at Beni.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 20 March 75

  Dhaulagiri V leader got sick and he has gone back to KTM, says message from Baglung sent 18 March.


  Nomura & Nishimae - 7 March 75

  Leave KTM 10th by road to Pokhara. 13th leave Pokhara. 2 weeks caravan up Kaphe Khola (same route as up 1970).

  Arrive BC at 4100m site of 1970 (see Dhaulagiri IV map) and same as Meiji's Churen BC.

  Route in lower part same as 1970 but not onto North-South Ridge south of Dhaulagiri VI but just south of Junction Peak. Whether go over or around peak, hope ridge this for north to climbable.

  There is col between Junction and Dhaulagiri IV at 6900m where Austrian 1969 had last camp.

  Leader was climbing.
  6 high camps with highest hopefully above col towards summit.
  5 Sherpas including sirdar and 1 cook. Don't expect Sherpas high.

  Summit attempt about 10 May.

  Most dangerous part is rock ridge and sanct from south and northern approach ridge. Think "ours is safest route." Many porters in southwest area without accident.

  "We should have success we have strong party, many good climbers."


expid: MAK274301
peakid: MAK2
year: 1974
route1: S Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Jean Francois Saltet
sponsor: Dutch Kangchungtse Expedition 1974
countries: India
bcdate: 1974-09-29
smtdate: 1974-10-11
campsites: BC(29/09,5100m),C1(30/09,5500m),C2(02/10,6100m),C3,C4(11/10,7000m),xxx(11/10,7200m)
accidents: Reynierse died from fall at C4 resulting from overdose of sleeping pills
routememo:
  Tollenaar - 2 Nov 74

  Tollenaar arrived today, other's waiting at Tumlingtar for flight.

  C4 established by Hopster, Banning and Tollenaar and 2 Sherpas on 11 Oct at about 7000m. Went up to 7200m putting in ropes that day but no place for camp above 7000m so descended to there and made camp on 12th. They intended to finish rope up to Makalu Col but by time reached 7200m were exhausted and went down and left job to other 3 (Sharma, Osinga and Reynierse) who reached C4 on 14 Oct at 17:00 and took sleeping pills. Sharma and Osinga slept for 36 hours. Osinga found when he awoke am 16th and found Dr. Reynierse missing leaving in tent his shoes, spectacles and rest of his equipment. Osinga discovered about 150m below camp something that looked like a body. Went down to it quickly and found it the body of Reynierse in totally frozen state. 

  Body buried in glacier on slopes of Makalu II near where found. Too dangerous to take down; memorial stove erected at BC.

  Death and combination of high altitude, extreme tiredness and sleeping tablets, so climbing immediately abandoned, which was pity because would have made summit since all technical difficulties overcame. But didn't have the heart to continue - too bad. "Everybody wanted to forget that mountain at that moment anyway." Could have been on summit on 17th or 18th.

  Everything went splendidly well up to that moment, excellent Sherpas and excellent weather.

  Dutch altitude record established.
  No illness at all; no avalanches, no incidents until Dr's fall.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 31 Oct 74

  3 persons in tent: Osinga, Sharma, Reynierse

  C4 23,000 ft - highest camp sleeping on 15 Oct night and on 16th am when others found Ewout didn't get up, friends tried to awake him and he was found dead, had taken, too many sleeping tablets and this could be cause of death. Expedition abandoned leader says to LO writing.


  Saltet - 9 Sept 74

  2 more Dutch and 1 Indian arrive next week and follow Wednesday next week by Schedule to Biratnagar. Others leave this Wednesday 2:00 and in charter Avro to Biratnagar.

  18 days to BC so reach 29th or 30th Sept
  4 (perhaps 5) high camps
  4 Sherpas, 3 kitchen boys and 2 mailrunners


  Tollenaar - 31 Aug 74

  Saltet and other 7 members am, 9 Sept; hope to leave KTM by 12th Sept to Biratnagar.

  "This mountain is too big for us, but maybe if weather is good we can succeed." Being watched in Netherlands because would be Dutch altitude record: present record set by Jan Boon's expedition.

  Will attempt French 1954 route, South Ridge
  Expect take 20 days from Dharan to BC
  4 climbing Sherpas including sirdar


expid: DHA175101
peakid: DHA1
year: 1975
route1: S Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Takashi Amemiya
sponsor: Tokyo Metropolitan Himalayan Expedition to South Pillar
bcdate: 1975-03-01
smtdate: 1975-04-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to difficult route and bad weather
campsites: BC(01/03,3460m),C1(06/03,4500m),C2(10/03,5270m),C3(18/03,5800m),xxx(19/04,6200m)
accidents: 2 members and 3 Sherpas killed in avalanche 26 March
routememo:
  Correct route for 1975 Spring Japanese on Dhaulagiri I was: South Ridge, not South Pillar (according to Yves Pollet-Villard, Nov 1978).


  Amemiya - 14 May 75

  All in KTM. 11 arrive yesterday. 1st group leave 25 or 30 May; others 20 June after some go trekking others sightseeing. 1st group of 3 including leader. Numao and Imura ashes slowly sent ot Japan.

  C3 at 5800m on 18 March highest camp. 6200m highest point reached by Kazuharu Kohara, Takashi Maruyama, Yasuji Kato on 19 April.

  Started climbing 10 April again. Could not make C4. Route very difficult, weather bad, most Sherpas did not want to go on but these not main reasons: leader decided.

  South Pillar route is possible by some climbing route.

  No other accidents, no frostbite, no yeti.

  Fatal avalanche during night 25/26 March [1 am]. All 3 tents covered in C1 with 11 men. No one injured besides 5 killed. Heavy snowfall on 25 March. 


  Ranjan

  Stopped climbing again after leader returned from quick trip to Tokyo where he received orders to stop. Most members wanted to keep climbing.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 10 April 75

  Abandoned expedition; decision from Tokyo received yesterday.
  All bodies recovered next day after accident and cremated at BC.

  Leave BC next week for KTM. All climbing suspended since 26th March and all at BC.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 27 March 75

  C3 established 18 March at 5800m by Seiji Shinizu, Motoyashi Tanaka and Dawa Norbu.


  MP Khanal MFA - 20 March 75

  C2 established on 10 March at 5270m by Kohara, Maruyama and Kashima.


  Akira Takahashi - 24 Jan 75

  Was here with Manaslu expedition.

  All members arrive KTM 15 Feb on TG
  Base camp on Myagdi Khola at 3500m

  Leave KTM 12 Feb by road to Pokhara; in Pokhara 3-4 days to arrange porters; leave Pokhara about 15 Feb by bus and then foot for 15 days. Arrive BC about 1 March.

  Most difficult climbing C2-C6; more difficult than Manaslu: vertical rock ridge on Dha I.

  C6 about 7600m 
  Summit middle May
  80 days BC->summit->BC

  1 sirdar and 6 Sherpas, probably not able go above C2. Sirdar is Sange.

  300-350 porters, about 12 tons baggage including climbing oxygen.


expid: MAKA74301
peakid: MAKA
year: 1974
route1: S Face
nation: W Germany
leaders: Fritz Stammberger
sponsor: International Expedition to Makalu
countries: Argentina, Austria, Canada, USA, Yugoslavia
bcdate: 1974-09-19
smtdate: 1974-10-18
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(17/09,5180m),C1(19/09,5790m),C2(22/09,6340m),C3(03/10,7000m),C4(12/10,7600m),xxx(18/10,7800m)
accidents: One member pulmonary edema briefly
routememo:
  Jones - 10 Nov 74

  Jones didn't say he refused to support summit bid, but did say not realistic to have 2 men try when C5 not yet established and only 3 climbers at all fit. Fritz really not very well.

  Highest point reached 7800m on 17th or 18th Oct by Matija and Arnold.

  Austrians reached 150m below this expedition's C4. 


  Korich - 10 Nov 74

  "Came final push, we didn't have enough drive on part of climbers. Because of attrition rate, we had 2 on mountain and no one to support them. Democratically decided to stop. Fritz and Matija wanted to go ahead. I was at C2 but this first time was using crampons."

  Highest point was 200 ft below Yugo C5 at 25,600 ft by Fritz and Matija, also by Larcher who had gotten frostbite about 5 days before end and he had to go down.

  Final attack plan was Fritz, Matija, Arnold and Dave Jones to make attack and all had gone down to C1 for rest. C6 would be biv only at about 26,900 ft to be used only on summit night. Summit pair would not have needed to fix ropes.

  But Arnold's frozen toes (mostly left feet) put him out of action. Fritz and Matija went up but Dave didn't feel it safe for 3; he then in good condition but had almost broken arm in fall.

  Jeff Long had pulmonary edema but went up to C4, had difficulty at C4 and came down.

  Andre at C3 had something at first diagnosed as malaria, but later doubted this diagnosis; he does not remember one day during which was delirious. 

  Korich, Fritz and Matija and 2 Sherpas went to C2 at end. Sherpas throughout refused to go above dump, below C3. Korich said he'd stay at C2, Dave could go to C3 Korich said and be ready for rescue if needed. Next day Fritz and Matija went to C3 and Mario went to C1 but not feeling very well, but Dave saying not safe without 4 high on mountain and he not willing to go up and staying at BC. Next day Fritz and Matija at C3 and BC said porters arrive in few days and some of us are going out; Arnold and Matija have tickets for certain dates; Andre not well. "So wind taken out of sails of Fritz and Matija."

  Not a plot, they said we can't do it, lets go home - were homesick, sort of a fizzle at the end." Don't know whether would have succeeded; never had more than 4 climbers in condition at any one time.

  Extremely little real friction amongst members and never were frictions, even on walkout, no recrimations to boiling point or sulking. We pushed above Austrians and near to Yugoslavia highest point with half then climbing strength and this without climbing oxygen. So with right small group and 2 top-rate Sherpas, I think it can be done." Weather cold and windy but climbable. Getting in a week, earlier would have helped.


  Tollenaar, of Kangchungtse - 2 Nov 74

  Re Makalu expedition:

  Day we left our BC 25 Oct; that was the day they decided to give up, but 2 days later heard decided to go on. Heard Stammberger waited to go on. Still had not made C5, had 200m to rope to reach C5 site at about 8000m. Very cold and strong winds. Getting on well together; invited several Dutch to join them. 


  Montgomery - 27 Oct 74

  Montgomery left Makalu BC 19 Oct and that day learned of Dr Ewelt's death (of HA sickness?) on Kangchungtse.

  C4 of Makalu established Fritz alone 16 or 17 Oct and then put higher on 18th by 3 men.

  Everyone well except Andre who had malaria-type illness but was recovering. Don't want to climb after 1 Nov.


  rec'd - 23 Oct 74

  From Read group postcards:

  PC date:

  12 Oct - climbers have established C4 and 2 more to go before the top
           no date - Jones new helping to establish C4 with Stammberger 24,500 ft
  12 Oct - C4 just about established
  10 Oct - climbers have reached 24,000 ft and hope to make the top in 2 weeks.
  11 Oct - summit bid should be about 25 Oct.

  Makalu camps (expected) (from an expedition postcard)

  BC   4900m
  C1   5900m
  C2   6300m - bottom of face
  C3   6900m  
  C4   7400m
  C5   7800m
  C5   8250m


  Stammberger - 1 Sept 74

  BC at 15,000 ft. 
  4 high camps with possibly a 5th carried by summit team (just one tent)
  Summit 10-15 Oct
  Aspen Alpine Club formed by Stammberger to get permission for Makalu.


  Stammberger - 31 Aug 74

  3 Sherpas and 1 sirdar.
  If South Face not possible, might straighten out Czech route or attempt some other route.
  17 days from Dharan to BC.


  Korich - 26 Aug 74

  No climbing oxygen; dry chemical oxygen for emergency use. Scott Aviation and Dr. Clark.

  Special platforms of designs; special oven for cooking; prototype some tents.
  South Face route definitely.
  Only 2-3 climbing Sherpas if any.

  David Jones (Canada)
  Jeff Long (Boulder)
  Andre Ulrych (Aspen)

  Total 9 climbers, none professional plus 9 visitors: scientists and support group. 
  Climbers:
    US      4
    Brit    1 
    Ger     1
    Yugo    1
    Argent  1
    Canada  1


  Rodney Korich - 24 March 74

  He is "manager" of Stammberger's Makalu expedition, a small, light expedition, no oxygen, reintroducing alpine methods.
  South Face route if Austrians don't succeed.
  Want to do something different, maybe camp on summit for a week.


  Stammberger - 15 Sept 73

  4-6 climbers only on his Makalu fall 1974 expedition. No oxygen, "its completely unnecessary even on Everest." Route not yet decided.


  Letter from Fritz Stammberger - Oct 8th, 1974

  On October 3rd, Camp 3 was established by Matija Malezec, Fritz Stamberger, Arnold Larcher and Jeff Long.

  The face is in reasonable condition with good footing on the larger snow and ice fields but vergass on the rock portions at times.
   
  Also numerous but so far harmless avalanches make the traverses of the higher snowfield difficult. We have found many fix ropes of the Yugoslavs.

  Except for the snow-free ascent to C1, we have made little use of Sherpas. Most carries have been made by members and support members.

  The Verne Reed group and family arrived on Oct 1st. They brought relief supplies and an additional 4000 ft of rope. The expedition is now in fine shape with very good chances of success. The weather had cooperated with no major snowfalls or especially low temperatures. The average night minimum temperature is 10 below centrigrade at C2 at 20,790 ft. 


  Letter from Fritz - Nov 3, 1974 

  The expedition has met with a sudden, odd end. We had the mountain face well prepared upto 25,500 ft when we withdrew to C1 for rest before the final push. We, that is Matija and myself. The rest of the climbers, support members and Sherpas were at BC. Sometime during our rest, which coincided with our first unnerving but otherwise harmless storm, "Basecamp" decided that we had no chances and in order that we (Matija and me) would not act contrary to them, refused to come up again and withdrew their support.

  Our doctor is trying to offer the "high attrition rate" as the official reason for not exiting. He claims that only Matija and I were the only healthy climbers left. I said to Matija, who like me suffered very much under this conspiracy, everyone in the world will buy this "attrition theory." 


  Letter from Fritz

  On Oct 3rd, C3 was established by Matija Malezec, Fritz Stamberger, Arnold Larcher and Jeff Long.

  The face is in reasonable condition with good footing on the larger snow and ice fields but verglass on the rock portions at times. Also numerous but so far harmless avalanches make the traverses of the higher snowfield difficult. We have found fix ropes of the Yugoslavs.

  Except for the snow ascent to C1, we have made little use of Sherpas. Most carries have been made by members and support members.

  The Verne Reed group and family arrived on Oct 1st. They brought relief supplies and an additional 400 ft of rope. The expedition is now in fine shape with very good chances of success. The weather had cooperated with no major snowfalls or especially low temperature. The average night minimum temperature is 10 below Centigrade at C2 at 20,790 ft. 


  Letter from Fritz - Sept 23, 72 

  Here are some of the details of the progress of our expedition:

  BC are reached and established on Sep 17th after sixteen days from Dharan. The weather on the approach was miserable. We did not get a glimpse of any mountain until one day after reaching basecamp.

  C1 was established on Sep 19 by Fritz Stammberger, Matija Malezec, Arhold Larcher and Jeff Long at 19,000 ft in the same location as the Yugoslavs, Austrians, Czechoslovakians.

  C2 was established on Sept 22 by the same members at the foot of the South Face.

  The weather has been predominantly overcast with short clear spells. It is good enough to work on the mountain.


expid: LHOT74301
peakid: LHOT
year: 1974
route1: W Face
nation: Poland
leaders: Andrzej Zawada
sponsor: Polish Himalaya Expedition Lhotse 1974
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1974-10-21
smtdate: 1974-12-25
termdate: 1975-01-05
termnote: Abandoned at 8250m due to approaching storm
accidents: Latallo died of exhaustion while descending from C3 in a strong blizzard
campsites:
  BC(21/10,5300m),C1(26/10,6050m),C2(01/11,6400m),C3(07/11,7100m),C4A(29/11,7600m),C4B(11/12,7800m),xxx(25/12,8250m)

routememo:
  N Dyhrenfurth - 17 Dec 74

  C4 would be below couloir which starts at 8000m. Camp altitudes for C3 and transit camp about 200m too high. 

  Correct that Poles are first to be in West Cwm in Dec.

  Dyhrenfurth leaves 2 Dec.


  Zawada - 7 Jan 75

  Dec weather much better then Nov. Needed 2 more weeks only to reach summit. 

  Icefall - easy in Oct, Nov bad, and worse and worse in Dec:
    Nov - 1-1/2 hours to cross
    Dec - 5 hours to cross

  Crevasses getting bigger and seracs falling. Winds dropped notably in Dec, Jan weather was very fine. Sure in Dec and Jan much better for climbing then Sept and Nov.


  Dr Stryczynski letter ex-BC - 1 Jan 75

  30 Dec to C1 and C2 went 9 members to carry down more equipment and maybe few would go up to attack summit. But 30 Dec good weather finished. Wind was horrible, so would be attacker had to return and reached BC on 1 Jan.

  Now preparing return to KTM. 5 Jan caravan to leave BC and 9 Jan arrive Lukla.


  Stryczynski at BC - 25 Dec 74

  24 Dec Zawada and Heinrich in C4 in good weather without wind. Other 2 came to C2. 25 Dec about 10:00 am all in C4 begin climb to top. Weather continued very good, night before at least. -45 degrees C and perhaps colder. Others two Kazimierz and Wojciech to C3 on 25 Dec.


  MP Khanal - 20 Dec 74

  17th Dec Stanislaw Latallo died exhausted descending from C3 during snowing storm.


  BC - 18 Dec 74

  Yesterday afternoon about 14 o'clock our cameraman Stanislaw Latallo age 29 died exhausted descending from C3 to C2 at altitude about 7000m on NW Face of Lhotse.

  Stanislaw  Latallo and two other members had been waiting in C3 two days for improving the weather conditions. Unfortunately on 17 Dec morning the weather was still getting worse and they had decided to descend toward C2 in Western Cwm. During descending the weather conditions were as follows: -26 degrees C and stormy hurricane.

  As result of being in such a conditions after 2 hours exhausted S. Latallo died. The other two members after few hours reached C2 and sent a tragic message by walkie-talkie to BC.

  The body of Stanislaw Latallo will be graved in nearest crevasse in North Face of Lhotse.

  The expedition will be continued. On 11th Dec we have established C4 on altitude 7800m. Two final attacks on the summit of Lhotse were unsuccessful because of strong winds in temperature.


  MFA - 12 Dec 74

  Established C4 7800m today.


  Murrey Jones - 12 Dec 74

  Jones visited BC on 8 Dec. 7th Dec Poles found C1's tents destroyed: 5 torn apart and 1 vanished and returned to BC. 8th Dec Zawada and 3 other Poles left BC to go through to C2 and C3. Morale remarkably high under extremely rugged conditions at BC. Say have food for one month.


  Letter from BC - 4 Dec 74

  Many attempts for the last 3 weeks to proceed above C3 have proved unsuccessful becauses of very stormy winds which by the way have destroyed parts of the camp instalments like tents. Lately C3 specially suffered heavy destruction making its rebuilding necessary. Also the route through Icefall which was alreay opened by means of bridges and fixed ropes has been for a good part destroyed because of the collapsing of the seracs.

  Nov 15 an accident occured which easily could have been fatal: of two Sherpas climbing up the Ice-fall, transporting material for C1; one slipped and fell into deep crevasse and hereby pulling the other Sherpa down. The later fortunately fell into another crevasse, so that both men remained hung up in balance until their shouts for help attracted Polish climbers one hour later. Although there was no loss of life, both men are unable for a couple of weeks, one having the phalanges of the hands frozen and the other one the left leg very badly hurt.

  Our expedition taking place during the winter months, we are faced with problems unknown to the former expeditions in such a great extent, like extreme temperatures, i.e. - 32 degrees C night temperature in C3, and very strong and long-lasting winds in high altitudes, as mentioned above.

  Has throat disease, coming to KTM on foot with 16; arrived 18-20 Dec (left Namche 8th Dec); come slowly as are making photos.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 2 Dec 74

  LO reports expedition on 25th Nov made route up to 7500m, but because of strong wind had to return to BC, but are still trying to climb; have not yet abandoned attempt.


  MP Khanal - 17 Nov 74

  15th Nov 2 Sherpas 5550m to BC from C1 fell into crevasse 12m deep at 12:00 hrs and rescued at 13:00 hrs. One received minor frostbite in finger and other uninjured. Returned to BC 19:00 hrs - Chowang Rinzi Sherpa and Norbu Jangbu Sherpa.


  Andrzej Zawada - 5 Nov 74 (letter)

  It was forunate for us that our advance party manged to get to Lukla without delay and we were thus able to establish our initial BC on October 21st. The second party arrived on Oct 27th and our camp now consists of 15 tents and 7500 kgs of equipment.

  Two days after the advance party established camp the first teams began to look for a route through icefall. C1 was established on Oct 26th at an altitude of 6050m just above the icefall.

  On Nov 1st we set up C2 (two) beneath the SW Face of Everest at 6400m.

  Up to Nov 1st the weather had been good, but from then it began to worsen. Strong winds began to make work in the Western Cwm impossible. Powder ice and snow is being whipped  up from the surface of the cwm reducing visibility this morning (Nov 4th) to only two meters. In order not to be delayed by these poor conditions we shall use this time to move loads up the Icefall from BC to C1.


  Zawada, et al - 3 Oct 74

  Works as photographer not as doctor.
  Okopinska (woman) does a little climbing, may go through icefall.
  All members are Polish.
  7 Sherpas including 1 sirdar.
  6 high camps; 1st 5 as usual on Everest.


  Zawada & Rusiecki - 20 Sept 74

  Swiss 1956 route via South Col. Probably highest and couloir in ascent. May attempt traverse to Lhotse Shar 8426m via unclimbed intermediate peaks and return to Lhotse, or maybe direct via ridge.

  Trucks maybe in Pakistan; were in Tblise 9 Sept.


expid: EVER74301
peakid: EVER
year: 1974
route1: Lho La-W Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Gerard Devouassoux
sponsor: First French Everest Expedition
bcdate: 1974-08-16
smtdate: 1974-09-09
termdate: 1974-09-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to fatal avalanches at C1 and C2
campsites: BC(16/08,5400m),C1(25/08,5800m),C2(03/09,6400m),C3(09/09,6900m),xxx(09/09,6900m)
accidents: 5 Sherpas killed in avalanche and 1 member Devouassoux killed in avalanche
routememo:
  Tarraiz now 20 years older, psychological shock.


  Payot - 26 Sept 74

  All 7 of KTM members at press conference: Payot as spokesman.

  Reasons psychologically not ready to talk to press on arrival in KTM. Had not the heart; still too much emotionally involved in terrible experience "on mountain." State of mind and state of heart, not discourtesy.

  Arrive BC 16 Aug at 5400m at usual BC site.

  C1 - 25 Aug at 5800m half way between Lho La and BC, 200m below Lho La.

  C2 - 3 Sept 6400m on ridge of West Shoulder; did not go to Lho La but went 
       straight up on right.

  C3 - 9 Sept 6900m on ridge of West Shoulder, but 300m below top of shoulder  
       established of camps; not decision of one man but altogether decided
       approx altitude for each camp; not only French but also sirdar and Sherpas 
       participated in choice of campsites.

  9th Sept - 10 (9 Sherpas and Lasserre) in C1
              8 (6 Sherpas, Tarraiz and Devouassoux) in C2
              3 (1 Sherpa, Ancey and Balmat) in C3

  All others in BC.

  No other warning or avalanches before 9 Sept on west slopes. Monsoon exceptionally violent and heavy. Tail of monsoon normally ebbs in early Sept, still extremely strong: monsoon started weak and ended strong.

  French no earlier than others. Everest normally exposed to very strong winds from, so between end of monsoon. and 15 Oct when winds begin, aimed to reach summit. 

  No recollections of avalanche activity of 1974 vis a vis 1972.
  No incident of any kind during day of 9th Sept.

  9th Sept 19:30 hours Payot and 5 members heard in BC terrific noise of blast of avalanche. Noise of movement of air displaced by mass of snow. Dr Lasserre at C1 by walkie-talkie gave news that break of avalanche had passed about 600m from C1, but one of tents at C1 was blown away with 1 Sherpa Nima Wangchu inside.

  18:00 hours radio contact with all camps normally.

  No other news from other camps that night.

  Tarraiz (who was at C2) was inside tent in front of Devouassoux; and went to sleep. 1-1/2m of corridor between 2 parts where Devouassoux in one and Tarriaz in other part. Blast of avalanche provoked movement of snow which fell on tent and flattened all of it. Fell from slope of 30m. Started digging each other out, weakened by weight of snow on top of them. 2 Sherpas and we made mutual rescue "but Devouassoux under big mountain of snow, it was too much snow; we have no shovel to dig, we have nothing." It was 3 hours searching.

  Tairraz and 1 Sherpa helped each other out and then found other Sherpa still alive and managed to help him too (perhaps Devouassoux killed quickly by weight of snow). Tent may have split open and Devouassoux badly thrown far down; originally C2's 2 tents close together.

  At 10:20 exhausted, could not see other tent.

  10th Sept could not see other tent, stormy weather, could see nothing.

  During night able recover pieces of canvas and managed to spend night in this improvised shelter. No frostbite, no severe cold.


  Payot

  Sherpas who in other Everest expeditions said never seen avalanche of that size.
   
  Not able find bodies except that of Nawang Lotuk who was in C2 whose body swept away by avalanche and or blast and found below C1. 

  Left base 21 Sept. No other avalanche or incident after 9th Sept.

  When Lasserre radioed said big avalanche passing 200m from C1 and 150m from C2.

  Wind of blast sounded like rolling thunder; 30 secs durations says Lasserre.

  I am convinced that all of us wish that if they take part in any other expedition to Everest they would "follow same route."

  This route better than Icefall route, safer.

  Much better in spring "100% sure" that if not this accident would have reached summit between 10 and 15 Oct.

  Feeling their hearts irrepairable loss of their companion and leader and disappointed not reached summit.

  Cancelled attempt because could not visualize to go on after what had happened.

  Such shattering experience, would also have been more difficult. Departure not known. 


  Payot - 21 Sept 74

  Return foreseen on 27 Sept; rest probably will walk.


  Bernadette Vasseux - 20 Sept 74

  Payot: we reach Namche 23rd evening.
  Shanker 27 Sept: this received by French embassy yesterday evening, embassy arranging Lukla charters for 27th. 


  MP Khanal - 15 Sept 74

  9 Sept 7:10 pm on avalanche from north side of C3 hit C1 and C2 and as result leader and 5 Sherpas killed and Deputy Leader decided to suspend expedition.

  Persons at C3 (Ancey, Balmat and Ang Temba) requested to come to BC.
  Those at BC are searching for victims bodies.

  Those killed in C2
    Devouassoux
    Pemba Dorje (Namche)
    Nawang Lotuk (Thami)
    Lhakpa (Dolakha)
    Sanu Wangel (Taksindu)

  Killed in C1 
    Nima Wangchu (Thami)


  Bernadette Vasseux - 14 Sept 74

  Payot message to French ambassador dated 12 Sept:

  Given up hope to find bodies of Devouassoux and 4 Sherpas who were in C2; still looking for body of Sherpa who was in C1.

  All who had been in C3 reached BC safely and all surviving members well. 


  9 Sept AFP KTM citing MFA.

  Avalanche struck with such lightning speed.
  Avalanche started 7000m north of C3 occupied by Balmat, Ancey and Ang Temba.
  Devouassoux was at C2.
  5 Sherpas were at C1 5800m.


  Unsoeld - 13 Sept 74

  "My recollection of that section of West Ridge from Lho Lha to West shoulder is extremely steep and avalanche swept stretch of rock and ice. I would judge it to be as dangerous a section of mountain as any climb acquainted with; the avalanches being a constant danger in the best of this we in 1963 watched from BC to see conditions for route through icefall and saw lot of avalanche action on West Shoulder and steered clear of it by going through center to still icefall by rock into West Shoulder; seems a bit foolhardy. 

  I personally like idea of true West Ridge ascent for sheer purity of the route but it would appear that the route they chose would not maximize their chances of success."

  Would never himself attempt descent via West Ridge.


  MP Khanal - 13 Sept 74

  BC near tradition site

  C1 halfway between BC and Lho La
  C2 on West Shoulder ridge so part
  C3 on top West Shoulder

  MFA told them not to go over onto north side but not forbidden Lho La near Khumbu Icefall - only requested not to go across Garden.

  French themselves said did not intend to go to Lho La but to follow above plan.

  Khanal said they had alternative option of Khumbu Icefall, but Devouassoux said that too dangerous.


  MP Khanal - 10 Sept 74

  C3  6900m 8 Sept
  C2  6400m 4 Sept
  C1  ?

  Small accident on 31 Aug in which tent occupied by Fernard Audibert and Balmat in night 6:55 pm. While candle burning equipment and clothing burned, but no one injured (location of tent not given).

  Way from C1 and C2 difficult and had cut a way through icefall just below Lho La to West Shoulder.


  JOM Roberts - 31 July 74

  Lho La reached only twice = by 1955 Lhotse one Austrian member alone and Indian Everest 1965, Kumar and LO.

  International 1971 JOMR thought of sending West Ridge team up Lho La to West Shoulder, but saw Lho La defended by at least 2 avalanches channels: lot of it just walking and lot it very dangerous. Americans traversed onto North Face from top of West Shoulder.

  West Ridge worse than SW Face for wind.

  Lho La route means
    C1 on Col
    C2 on top West Shoulder or halfway to shoulder 

    (Americans C3 - W was top of shoulder)


  Payot - 8 July 74

  Rest of expedition arrive next Monday.

  All are guides from Chamonix except Dr and photographer.

  D. Audibert and Ducrez start from Geneva 1 July with equipment by air to Delhi and road to KTM starting 3 days ago in 4 trucks, 13 tons.

  Hope to climb without oxygen for 1 or 2 members. Bring 2 systems (French and American) totalling 200 bottles. 

  2 Audiberts made and nephew

  Ancey divorced this year, daughter 
  F. Audibert, married, 1 boy and 1 girl

  Lasserre - now 2 girls
  Mollier  -     2 boys
  Tairraz  -     2 girls
  Balmat   -     1 child

  Where start on ridge depends on Icefall; upper part follow American route. But with total high camps. Will descend by ridge; will not be on any other route on Everest.

  C4 on West Shoulder

  20 Sherpas including 2 sirdars (1 at BC and 1 higher above)

  Leave KTM 20 July depending on Customs; to Lamosangu and walk 2 weeks, so arrived BC mid-August unless monsoon still strong; if necessary can wait at Namche or else where if weather still bad.

  About 15 Oct on top; one camp, one week approx.

  Hope to put every body on top like Makalu 1954 and Pumori. Plan 7 big camps for this reason. Japanese last year from South Col and only 2 could reach top.

  Lasserre and Tairraz not professional climbers, Tairraz professional photographer.


  To the Editor Mountain Magazine by MJ Cheney

  On Sept 9th at 19:30 hours an avalanche swept over and destroyed C1 and C2, killing the expedition leader, Gerard Devauassoux and 5 Sherpas.

  The expedition was abandoned after the accident and will probably return to KTM on about 20 Sept.

  BC was established on 25 Aug
  C1 was established date not known at 5800m
  C2 was     "       on 4 Sept at 6400m
  C3 was     "       on 8 Sept at 6900m

  The expedition route to the West Ridge from BC was via a prominent shoulder leading up to the West Ridge above Lho La. Exact route is not known. C1 and C2 were on the flanks of the shoulder feature and C3 on the crest of the shoulder.

  Weather: Normal monsoon weather has prevailed since the expedition reached BC, and still prevails. There was a fine period over East and Central Nepal for 3 or 4 days before the accident, but for 6 days before that short fine spell; from Aug 29 to Sept 3rd, there was continuous rain and cloud right across Central and East Nepal. In Central Nepal there was also rain all day on Sept 10 and 11. This rainy period may well have effected East Nepal on 9th Sept. Since 12th Sept to date the weather has been fine with a few showers. But monsoon conditions still prevail. This was the weather across the middle hills of Nepal, but it would have effected the Everest region in much the same pattern. The temperature during the second rainy spell was appreciably lower than during the former rainy period, the rain would have fallen as snow over about 15,000 ft. The French ambassador is on record as that it was unfortunate that the monsoon was unusually late. This is not so, the monsoon is not late, it is normal and will not, predictably, finish until very end of Sept.

  Wills Unsoeld was in KTM when the accident was announced. Talking to Reuters correspondent, Willi Unsoeld remarked that his recollections of that section of the West Ridge from Lho La to the West Shoulder is of extremely steep and avalanche swept stretch of rock and ice and very dangerous indeed.

  It is known that the I.H.E. to Everest of 1971 also considered a route to the West Ridge via the shoulder feature, but it was immediately rejected when the very dangerous conditions from two prominent avalanche channels were realized.

  This accident has all the making making of another Everest controversy.

  It may be noted that, due to lack of serviceable aircraft and pilots, a French television team was still frantically trying to leave KTM for the Everest area 7 days after the accident.


expid: LAMJ74301
peakid: LAMJ
year: 1974
route1: E Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yoichi Yamakura
sponsor: Himalayan Alpine Assoc of Japan Himalayan Expedition 1974
ascent1: 4th,5th
bcdate: 1974-09-15
smtdate: 1974-10-20
smttime: 1530
campsites:
  BC(15/09,4200m),Dep(25/09,4400m),C1(26/09,5000m),C2(06/10,5400m),C3(17/10,5850m),C4(20/10,6050m),Smt(20-21/10)

routememo:
  Yamakura - 5 Nov 74

  1st summit on 20 Oct
  2nd summit on 21 Oct and Lobsang Tshering Sherpa.

  Many steep narrow ridges; climbed from East Ridge.

  From BC to C4 very difficult, after that easy C4 at 6050m, a temporary camp made on 20th by other 2 other members (20th summiters slept C3). 

  20th summiters reached top 3:30 pm. 21st summiters slept C4 20th night and reached to 11:00 am and slept in C4.

  3 members and 1 Sherpa avalanche 19 Sept Osaki, Uetake, leader and Lhakpa Norbu about 4700m and radio news had reported 5 Sherpas killed on Everest (1 related to 1 Lamjung Sherpa). After avalanche, changed route to icefall and Sherpas scared of difficulty this route. So 3 "very nervous" Sherpas left expedition 24 Sept am.

  We worked 10 hrs/day they worked 3 hrs/day; they carried 10 kg, we carried 30 kg; after they left sometimes we worked 12 hrs/day. 


  Singh RSS - 25 Oct 74

  17 Oct Kikuchi and Uetaka
  21 Oct Osaki, Dr. Abe and Sherpa Lobsang Tenzing
  Nepal and Japanese flags


  MP Khanal - 21 Oct 74

  C3 17 Oct 5840m climbing from SE Face.


  MP Khanal - 29 Sept 74

  14,500 ft dump camp at 4400m; date not given
  (message from 27 Sept)

  Had problem with Sherpas; 3 Sherpas returned to KTM 
  Only sirdar left (+kitchen boys, etc)


  Lamjung West Peak

  Climbed in 1955 autumn by West Germans under Heinz Steinmetz (17 Oct by Steinmetz and Juergen Wellenkamp).


  Dr Abe - 29 Aug 74

  4 arrived 27 Aug. Leave KTM about 5 Sept by road; leave Pokhara about 7 Sept; arrive BC about 14 Sept.

  Route cannot say now; perhaps British route, perhaps another; = must reach it and see it; have few photos or information of south side; had intended to climb from north.


  Osaki through advisor - 9 August 74

  Osaki and Sasaki arrive 2 Aug. Others stayed in Japan until permit clarified; come to KTM after 25th maybe.

  Expedition leaves KTM end of Aug to Pokhara; at Pokhara same days and then caravan: Siklis, Madi Khola.

  Original plan to climb Lamjung from North Ridge; now north prohibited so now from southern side. Route: prefer some route different from British.

  Had planned 4 camps above BC from north.
  4 Sherpas including sirdar.


expid: HIME74301
peakid: HIME
year: 1974
route1: E Ridge-NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Ichiro Kuribayashi
sponsor: Expedition from Aoyama Gakuin University to Himalchuli
bcdate: 1974-09-25
smtdate: 1974-10-23
termnote: Abandoned at 7050m due to increasing snowfall and strong wind
campsites:
  BC(25/09,4100m),C1(28/09,5220m),C2(02/10,5800m),C3(09/10,6450m),C4(16/10,6150m),C5(22/10,6800m),xxx(23/10,7050m)

routememo:
  All arrive KTM 14 Nov 74.

  Tobari, Iwai, Fujinuma were ill from altitude and sent down for a week two times to nearest village at 2700m. Iwai completely recovered and reached C4. From 7050m retreated from heavy snowfall and danger of great snow slide and to protect members and Sherpas lives. 7050m reached by Tsuchida, Okano and Suzuki.
   
  Sherpas on 23 Oct, day after they had made C5 at 6800m. Route West Ridge. If we could have 2 or 3 days more good weather could have succeeded. Needed 1 or 2 more camps; probably 1 camp and bivouac.

  No avalanches hit expedition. No damage from 2 that went nearby. No accidents, no frostbite; no yeti.

  Went to try Himalchuli again with somewhat different logistics BC->C1 1100m = too long, too big differece in height and tired out members; or might choose Chhulung Khola route to East Ridge and C4 would be at C2 or C3 altitude in make C3 advances base or even BC, arriving by helicopter.

  By 23 Oct no food in C5 and rest possible carry up from C3 and C4, thus had to abandon. East Ridge very difficult, other routes easy. 

  Want to come again after 2-3 years.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 31 Oct 74

  Himalchuli abandoned. Increasing snowfall and strong wind since 29 Oct. Expect leave BC in few days.


  Joshi, RSS - 24 Oct 74

  Himalchuli established C5 at 6800m by Tsuchida, Okano and 2 Sherpas.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 13 Oct 74

  C2 5800m on 2 Oct 1:30 pm by K. Tsuchida and 2 Sherpas. Planned C3 within couple of days from 2 Oct.


  Himalchuli - 25 Aug 74

  Members arrive 31 Aug and leave KTM 10 Sept. Route to mountain via Dordi Khola and very difficult pass southwest of Bauda.

  BC at Lidanda Glacier if can reach this way (MFA forbids via Buri Gandaki which expedition prefers, or prefers Marshyangdi Khola with BC on Musi Khola) 

  Climbing route: East Ridge from north if possible - same route of JAC 2nd expedition to Manaslu, but MFA may not permit reaching north side of East Ridge and south side of ridge very steep wall.


  H. Mihara, Soyam Gakuin Univ - 11 Aug 74

  Leave KTM 10 Sept. Main party arrive 13 Aug. Now 4 members in KTM (arrive 1 Aug) and all baggage.

  Route not decided. Maybe not allowed go to north side. Have no detailed maps here, main party may bring with them.

  4 Sherpas including sirdar (not many because of troubles last spring).
  All members live in Tokyo.

  Kuribayashi and Tokushisa maybe not go above BC and stay there only 2-3 weeks and return KTM and Japan.

  Annapurna II leader died in mountains so expedition may not come to Nepal.


expid: PUMO74301
peakid: PUMO
year: 1974
route1: W Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiroshi Fujita
sponsor: Himalayan Expedition of Unpo Alpne Club
ascent1: 5th
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1974-09-17
smtdate: 1974-10-13
smttime: 0950
campsites: BC(17/09,5300m),C1(19/09,5620m),C2(26/09,5940m),C3(07/10,6650m),Smt(13/10)
agency: Trans Himalayan Trekking (THT)
routememo:
  Takagi - 27 Oct 74

  Matsuda and Mizuta arrive yesterday ex-Lukla; others waiting for plane maybe tomorrow or day after.

  Summit arrive 13 by Minoru Takagi and Nobuyuki Kaneko correct; they were only summiters because no food left.

  Sherpas only to C1. West Face very steep and they cannot climb that; snow and ice and rock mixed. From C2 to summit very difficult climbing: -60 degree to 90 degrees. Had planned a C4 but no place for camp site on steep face.

  Summiters left C3 at 2:40 am and reached summit 9:50. 

  No oxygen used at all climbing or sleeping. 

  No accident or serious illness or frostbite or Yeti. Always avalanches but small and I can choose good route, so none hit expedition, but 5m from between C2 and C3 after snowfall.

  Leave Nepal after 10 days.

  Pumori summit:
    Minoru Takagi
    Nobuyuki Kaneko
    Oct 13 9:50 am

  Weather fine, all well.


  Fujita - 29 Sept 74

  Left BC 26 Sept and arrived KTM via Syangboche 28 Sept.

  "I am well but my age is 55 and Dr says better go down to KTM and wait good news of success."

  All members very well; Matsunda now leads our party.

  C1 information correct
  C2 after 26 Sept established at 5950m

  Climbing via West Face very difficult but we try new route; if necessary escape to West Ridge. Middle West Face very dangerous, many avalanches. Trying nearer West Ridge rocks but if this too difficult go onto West Ridge.

  C4 will be highest at 6600m about 8 or 9th Oct with summit 9th-11th Oct.

  "I hope 6 members in 3 teams reach summit; 6 is almost all of 7 climbing members, but West Face very difficult and may be only one party."

  Fujita stays THT Guest House. If accident on mountain, he flies at once to Syangboche and onto BC.

  All members now well acclimatized - at first, half members had some trouble.


  Hattori, Sakada & Okashi - 1 Aug 74

  Himalayan Expedition of Alpine Club (Club in Kobe)

  Total 12 members: 
    7 arrive KTM 27 July
    5 arrive     15 Aug

  Leave KTM 16 or 17 Aug and by THT charters to Lukla

  Plan 5 camps above BC. Route is West Face: 1st attempt this route. From Changri Glacier which C1 to be pitched. C4 6800m and if possible put C5 on top of mountain and stay there one night. 

  Hope put 7 on top but perhaps only 2 or 3 members. Attack members = 7. 
  Summit about 15 Oct. 25 Oct start general descent.

  3 Sherpas 
  Use oxygen for sleeping and medical use.


  Lenser re-Pumori:

  "The west flank is murderous. There you will find no nicely graded west glacier: only a vile icefall and fearful avalanche walls."

  Fujita came to KTM yesterday after having spent 9 days at BC. He told Reuters here today, "But my age is 55, and the doctor said better go down to KTM and wait for good news of success." All other members also well, he says, but in early days after reaching base camp at 5300m 17th Sept. Half like Fujita himself, suffered some high altitude effects.


expid: KANB74301
peakid: KANB
year: 1974
route1: NW Face
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Tone Skarja
sponsor: Expedition to Kangbachen from Slovene Alpine Club, Ljubljana
ascent1: 2nd-4th
bcdate: 1974-09-08
smtdate: 1974-09-29
smttime: 1730
termdate: 1974-10-12
othersmts:
  Climbed Ramtang Chang (RAMC-743-01), Mojca (MOJC-743-01) and an unnamed peak of 6500m west of Ramtang Chang (all unauthorized)

campsites:
  BC(08/09,5250m),C1(09/09,5750m),C2(12/09,6250m),C3(14/09,6600m),C4(22/09,7200m),C5(28/09,7450m),Smt(29/09,05-06/10)

routememo:
  Skarja & Soklic - 1 Nov 74

  Ramtang Chang (Wedge Peak) climbed 6750m; unnamed peak climbed 6500m.

  13 arrive today, rest tomorrow; no accidents, no illness, no frostbite. Powder avalanching swept Skarja, Riedl and Gradisar 100m down, but they on surface and not injured 21 Sept above C2 (6300m).

  NW Face route used while returning from summit 6 Oct, one Sherpa Nima not far below C5 slipped from 7500m about 100m, but luckily he stopped himself with his axe.

  Same route as 1965 expedition; top portion hard work especially for 1st group because deep snow which later became compacted.

  5 Oct Gradisar, Pollack and Smolej climbed Ramtang Chang from expedition's C1; made one camp themselves; climbed Ramtang Chang's west side.

  C6 never made; had planned it but not necessary.

  1st summit team had poor weather reached summit at sunset and C5 in dark with torches. 2nd team had good weather and reached top much earlier.


  MP Khanal - 7 Oct 74

  Frank Jeromen
  Marjan Manfreda
  Janez Dovzan

  Summit 5th Oct 10 am
  Weather very fine; all members safe.


  Jerin - 5 Oct 74

  If want to put 10 members on top, need another camp at 7400-7500m. Looking for route from col west of Kangbachen to Yalung Kang for future expedition; and for this, also need this other camp. Extremely good relations with Sherpas up to time he left expedition 15 Sept. Sirdar Ngati from Solu very good man.


  MP Khanal - 2 Oct 74

  Success 3 members 29 Sept, 17:30 hours: 
    Stanislav Belak
    Roman Robas
    Peter Scetinin

  All members well and weather fine.


  MP Khanal - 1 Oct 74

  C5 at 7250m 28 Sept
  All members well and weather fine.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 17 Sept 74

  C3 at 6200m 4:00 pm 14 Sept
  All members and Sherpas and weather Ok.

  Zerin and Sherpa due to leave BC 15 Sept.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 15 Sept 74 (message Friday from BC)

  C2 at 5800m 12 Sept by 5 members
  Weather fine and all members health Ok.


  Shrestha, MFA - 11 Sept 74

  BC 8 Sept 4900m
  C1 9 Sept 5400m
  All members well


  Jerin - 19 Aug 74

  Caravan left Biratnagar on 17th with all other members. Sherpas to Dankhuta to collect porters. Leader to Biratnagar and Dharan yesterday and Jerin leaves today. All leave Dharan 20th or 21st.

  Arrive BC about 8 Sept at 17,000 ft 4900m on east side of Ramtang Glacier.

  C1 established about same time as BC consolidated.
  Summit after 20th Oct.


  Approach March from Tone Skarja

  The expeditions left Dharan on Aug 20th, climbed the same day over Sanguri Col. We have on our disposal 266 local porters under the leadership of five naikes. The total weight of all loads was about 7500 kgs. In the following days we climbed the Mahabharta Lekh by the route Dhankuta (1200m), Hile (1900m), Sinduwa (2100m), Thute (2300m), Cauki (2600m), and Gupha Pokhari (2800m) and descended by the track through Churza to Doban which is situated in the Tamur valley just under and opposite to Taplejung. The daily rate for local porters from Dharan to Doban was 15 Rs NC. From Doban we followed the usual Tamur valley track. At Nitlung village one day was lost in waiting (in vain) for the new porters from Doban. In crossing a small torrent Andhuva Khola one of the members was saved within a hair's breadth not to be washed away and to the Tamur Kosi. 


  Climb of Kangbachen Peak

  On Sept 9th in spite of the thick fog and slight snowfall we pitched the first tents of the camp one at an altitude of 5750m and at the same time stored some 250 kg of equipment and food there. Because of a prolonged snowfall and fog in the next two days it was not possible to explore the safest route to the snowy plateau, where the C2 should be established.


expid: MAKA74101
peakid: MAKA
year: 1974
route1: S Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Wolfgang Nairz
sponsor: Austrian Himalaya Expedition 1974 to Makalu
countries: Italy, W Germany
approach: Dharan->Shipton La->Barun Glacier
bcdate: 1974-03-22
smtdate: 1974-05-09
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to constant snowfall
campsites: BC(22/03,4750m),C1(28/03,5900m),C2(01/04,6300m),C3(16/04,6900m),xxx(09/05,7500m)
routememo:
  Nairz - 16 May 74

  Too much snow, snowing daily in afternoon. Ice on rocks and snow made it most dangerous climb Messner knows. Did not establish C4 at 7400m; site reached and 7500m highest point by Oelz, Messner, Markl and Hagner on different days.

  Oelz, Nairz and Knoll arrive KTM yesterday evening; rest arrive 23 and 24 May. All Ok, no accidents.

  This route is possible, but only when weather is good. "Everyday only 20 meters, no more."

  (Yugoslavia heights too much).


  Nairz - 13 March 74

  Advance party with baggage left Tumlingtar 5th March after some trouble to get enough porters. Nairz and rest of expedition leave KTM tomorrow.


  Messner - 11 March 74

  Messner and all others arrive today. Will he reach summit alone again? "We will see - it depends on conditions."


  Nairz - 25 Feb 74

  Nairz and 3 arrive today (Himalayan Inn).
  More arrive 10 or 11 March including Messner, Dr Oelz and Knoll
  Start 2 or 3 March to Tumlingtar.

  South Face route, same as Yugoslavia. "We are very strong team if we have good weather conditions, we think we can do it - 90% chance." Have platform which was Yugoslavia problem; Yugoslavia couldn't place tents. "We know their problems and if they can do it, we can do it too." 

  Urkien sirdar, 10 HA Sherpas; base camp established 20 March 
  6 high camps, C6 about 8100m
  Summit end April or 1-2 May
  Messner will try without oxygen


  Letter from Wolfgang Nairz, BC - April 5, 1974

  Now our report from the last week:

  On April 1, the second high altitude camp was established by R. Messner and H. Hagner. In the days before the way to C2 was partly saved with fixed ropes. On April 2, H. Bergmann and J. Knoll went also to C2, which is established in a crevasse.

  To C1 went Dr. Oelz, G. Markl and W. Nairz. The load transport to C1 and from C1 to C2 is in full action. On April 3 R. Messner and H. Hagner started a first look on the way to C3. The way leads over a steep ice ridge. The ice conditions are very bad, but could save the first 200m with fixed ropes.

  On April 4 it was so stormy that all members and all Sherpas from all camps went down to the BC.

  We have now 2 rest days in BC and April 7 we will start a new attack to the wall.

  All members and Sherpas are well.

  Yesterday the doctor of the Lhotse expedition left also our base camp. He was three days here with high altitude sickness.


  Letter from Wolfgang Nairz,  BC - April 26, 1974

  Before I leave the BC to go up to C2. Today the team will be changed.

  A short report:

  On April 18, R. Messner and Dr. O. Oelz started to make the way from C3 to C4. It was a very difficult climbing, also the rocks has been full of snow and the wweather conditions were not to good. All the time we have had heavy storm. 

  R. Messner and O. Oelz could save about 250m with fixed ropes, then they went down to BC and H. Hagner and G. Markl went up to C3 to work on. This two could save the next 180m of difficult rock climbing and could hang in fixed ropes.

  Now they are on an altitude of about 7250m.

  Today G. Markl and H. Hagner will go down to BC, A. Precht and W. Almberger went up to C3 to work and J. Knoll, H. Bergmann and W. Nairz will go up to C3.

  Now the load transport between C2 and C3 is in full action. We hope that we can establish in one of the next days C4.

  Two Sherpas got sick, one of the stomach and the other has blood coughing and they will leave the expedition today.


  Letter from Makalu - April 18, 1974

  Yesterday I came down from C3 and I will send you the next report before the mailrunner is going tomorrow morning.

  On April 12 W. Nairz, J. Knoll and H. Bergmann went up to C1 and on the following day to C2, all other members went down to the BC for repose.

  On April 14 we climbed up with 2 Sherpas to a height of 6900m and could find a place under a rock for the third camp. On April 15 the two Sherpas went up, the place from the ice to establish a tent.

  The C3 was then established on April 16 by W. Nairz, J. Knoll and H. Bergmann. It is very extremely place in an about 60 degree steep icewall.

  On the next day we took a place for the second tent. Now also R. Messner and Dr. O. Oelz went up to C3, G. Markl and H. Hagner to C1.

  The members of C3 went down to the BC for repose and today R. Messner and Dr. O. Oelz went up to C3 to going on for the way to C4.

  The climbing conditions are not good. There is still a lot of snow in the rocks and it is not good to climb.

  The Sherpas are now by the load transport between C1 and C2 and between C2 and C3. The sirdar got a very bad sunburn and went down to BC. All other members and Sherpas are well.

  The liaison officer of the Lhotse expedition get high altitude sickness and stay now in our basecamp since 3 days. But here he is very well and I have the feeling that he will spend the rest of this time here.


  Letter from Wolfgang Nairz, BC - May 3, 1974

  The last 8 days the weather was so bad, that we could nearly do nothing.

  Here the report of the last week:

  On April 26, W. Nairz, J. Knoll and H. Bergmann went up to C2. G. Markl and H. Hagner went down to BC, W. Almberger stayed in C3. On April 27, H. Bergmann went also up to C3.

  On the next day it was snowing the whole day, in C2 we have had half a meter of new snow, the rocks over C3 were so full with snow, that we could not work. Avalanches came down the whole day and we decided to go down to BC. All members and Sherpas went down to BC.

  Also the next days gets bad weather and all the day snowing still to the BC.

  On April 30, R. Messner and G. Markl up to C1, on the next day to C2. They have to wait there one day, because the whole face is full with fresh snow.

  Today the went up to C3. We hope that the weather will be better in the next days and weeks, so that we can work on.

  One Sherpa, Phu Cherring, got sick. He has heavy tuberculosis and did leave the expedition. So now we have only 6 Sherpas and they are very afraid to go higher that C3 because it is very difficult also with the fixed ropes.


expid: ANN274101
peakid: ANN2
year: 1974
route1: W Ridge
nation: W Germany
leaders: Peter Bednar
sponsor: DAV (German Alpine Club)
approach: Marshyangdi->Hongde->Sabje Khola
bcdate: 1974-03-20
smtdate: 1974-04-26
termnote: Permit withdrawn after illegal climb of A-IV
othersmts: Climbed Annapurna IV illegally (ANN4-741-01)
campsites:
  BC(20/03,3600m),C1(26/03,4200m),C2(27/03,5050m),C3(14/04,6100m),C4(21/04,6950m),C5(26/04,7370m),xxx(7370m)

routememo:
  Summited Annapurna IV on 26 April (Gruber, Leutgaeb and Huettl )
  Second summit of A-IV on May 1 (Bednar)

  Permit for Annapurna II therefore cancelled by MFA and penalties imposed.

  Peter Bednar died Jan 1978 in Alps.


  Peter Bednar - 24 May 74

  Bednar went alone to summit of Annapurna IV after orders received to come down and stop climbing Annapurna II. When trio reached summit, weather not good and they took no photos.


  Bednar

  Same route as 1973 Japanese except litte more work as not so much snow and more ice.

  Annapurna IV 150m above C5 on ridge betwen Annapurna IV and Annapurna II.

  Kamm and Huettl one with baggage; in 3 more days Huettl comes KTM to get truck and meets Kamm at Pokhara.


  Gruber - 12 May 74

  Gruber (and wife) and Leutgaeb leave KTM tomorrow for New Dehli returning to Germany.

  Rest of expedition should reach KTM 15th or 16th May.


  Gruber - 10 May 74

  Franz Leutgaeb, Gruber and Huettl reached Annapurna IV summit. 

  Left BC 5 May; Leutgaeb carried to village on road; frostbitten toes, but hope will heel fully. Leave KTM Tuesday if MFA permits. 

  Others including Huettl KTM about 6-8 days more.


  Huettl, Gruber & Leutgaeb

  Made C5 26 April at about 7200m and went on to Annappurna IV same day. It was so close and Annapurna IV not really 7525m; really only 100m above C5.

  C5 would have been last camp for Annapurna II. 2-3 more days and would have reached Annapurna II summit.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 5 May 74

  Canceled permission to Annapurna II because without permission climbed Annapurna IV.

  26 April by Gruber and 2 others and when came back to KTM will investigate all in same detail and take further action (to be decided later on) depending on nature of their explanation. Its not legal; its an illegal violation of our mountaineering rules. 

  Are supposed start descents to BC 1 May - climbing stopped. 

  Order sent to expedition after receiving news couple days back.

  1 of summiters has frostbite in toe.

  Mrs Gruber and frostbite victim and one other coming to KTM in advance, leave BC 5 May.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 16 April 74

  C3 established on 14 April at 6180m by Bednar, Gruber and Leutgaeb.


  Kamm - 11 March 74

  Today 11 am 112 porters and 2 Naikes and 6 members and Gruber's wife left Dumre for BC.

  Kamm and Huettl probably leave KTM Wednesday 13th.


  Kamm & Bednar - 5 March 74

  Bednar and 4 members and wife arrive today; 3 already here so now all in KTM.

  Truck leaves about 7th and rest by 9th by bus. All to Dumre 80 km before Pokhara. From there go up Marshyangdi River. 12 days to BC 3600m at Serangtang Valley's end. Same BC site as Japanese 1973. 

  Direct North Face route if possible. Maybe have to go Japanese in West Ridge if weather not so good: too much avalanching.

  1971 Japanese tried North Face, but forced to go on over to West Ridge and reached 500 ft from top.

  North Face never climbed to top.

  5 camps above base, maybe 6 on face.
  Reach base about 22 March, maybe 4 weeks to top.
  7 Sherpas.

  If weather permits and whether must shift route if face too difficult or too dangerous

  Bednar expedition arrive KTM by road about 20 Feb (says Kamm 27 Nov 1973).


  Letter from Weidenthaler, BC - 25 Apr 74

  At April 21st we established C4 (6820m) only 100 meter under the main ridge, which leads to the summit. In this C4 are at the moment Heinz Huettl, Franz Leutgaeb and Georg Gruber.

  If weather will be good, then will be established on the ridge the last camp. From this C5 we shall try to reach the top. Until now it is not possible to say to you, who of us will shoot first.

  Probably we need 5 days to establish C5. If this is realized then we should be on the tops between 1st and 5th Aug. It depends on the weather. Since few days in high wind over 6000m blows a very strong storm. It makes working nearly impossible.


  Letter from Peter Bednar, C3 - 19 Apr 74

  Yesterday we reached the place of camp C4 (6820m) of first time (Bednar, Gruber, Leutgaeb). We need between C2 and C4 1500m fix ropes, 700m C3 to C4. They are now in C3 Bednar, Gruber, Huettl, Kamm, Leutgaeb. C2 stayed Eberhardt and Dr. Weidenthaler. All Sherpas are in C2 also and carry between C2 and C3. We hope in 2-3 days in C4 establish, it depends from weather.


  Letter from Ulrich Kamm, C2 - 14 Apr 74 

  Today Gruber and Leutgaeb, tomorrow Bednar and Huettl change from C2 (5030m) to C3 (6110m). Then they start to make the way to C4 (about 6850m).

  Everything is going well; all are healthy. C3 was reached the first time on 6th of April by Gruber and Leutgaeb. 

  The weather is mostly good. On the 9th we were fighting for C2, because a blizzard with heavy snowfall happened from 12 pm - 19 pm. But since than we only have some big clouds in the afternoon. We are very hopefull and think that the rest of the members and the Sherpas can change to C3 on the 19th.


  Letter from Peter Bednar - 27 March 74

  We want to inform you about the things that happened during the last week. On the 21 March we reached the place of C1 (4250m) for the first time. One day later we reached the place of C2 (5030m). We carried up loads and yesterday C1 was occupied and today C2.

  Now this would be all for now. I hope you have viewed this long period of not reserving word from me not as purposely inconsiderate but brought about by circumstances I mentioned. I very often think of you and also of the big help you have been for us.

  After some hours all three reached the west ridge of Annapurna II and could leave on this spot one tent and some expedition equipment. Unfortunately, however, from this point the further route and the onward position of the ridge could not be judged. They decided off hand to look for the best viewpoint in the vicinity, to climb the Annapurna IV. The distance of Annapurna IV from our C5 could be covered in an hour's walk. There was no possibility for these three members of the expedition to inform the leaders in advance.

  From Annapurna IV they could overlook the ridge and study the further route to Annapurna II.


expid: HIME74101
peakid: HIME
year: 1974
route1: NE Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Annibalo Bonicelli
sponsor: Italian Alpine Club's Antonio Locatelli Section, Bergamo
approach: Trisuli Bazar->Buri Gandaki->Jagat
bcdate: 1974-03-19
smtdate: 1974-05-07
termdate: 1974-05-18
termnote: Abandoned at 7450m due to Mario Dotti's fall on 8 May
accidents: Dotti fell apparently no bones broken, bruises all over
campsites:
  BC(19/03,4200m),C1(5350m),C2(5850m),C3(07/04,6630m),C4(19/04,6370m),C5(23/04,6370m),C6(02/05,7150m),xxx(07/05,7450m)

routememo:
  Dotti and Carrara arrived yesterday from Kaierni on Pokhara road. Rest arrive 29-30-31st.

  Dotti to go from C6 to C5 alone; just starting to take fixed rope when 1 foot into crevasse and he fell; tried to stop himself; not thinking of death, etc; stopped by flat angle; 1st part ice, then snow.

  Route same as 1959 Japanese on NE Face,


  Mayer - 18 May 74

  Bonicelli's report:

  Wall very hard to climb, such hard ice - mixed; at least 4 men in front and to get another man properly acclimatized in C6 take 6 days and not enough cooking gas for this. So on 12th would have had to cancel anyway.

  Calegari, Rota, Bianchetti, Dotti team able to get 7450m where found small piece nylon rope left by Japanese 1959. Upper part reached by top and passed this, but could not continue without replenishing supplies of climbing equipment. Returned to C6 at about 7200m.

  From C3, leader can see upper part of route. 8:30 am 8 May could see men coming down quickly instead of considered it almost a miracle that the author of such a flight could be not only alive but also able to talk by radio.

  Sherpas carrying him to C4 and Bonicelli went to C4 to meet. From C4 Dotti himself walked with some suppport to BC on 10 May and 11 May. Dotti asked expedition to continue of going up. At 11 am had walkie-talkie with C4 and Mr Rota in C5 came on radio and says Dotti from C6 had fallen: 30m in air and 300m slide and he reached almost to C5. Dotti now came on air from C5 and just to hear his voice and had such emotion that just to see where he flew and fell. 

  Climb but Bonicelli decided to discontinue.

  10 May from C4 to C3 and
  11 May from C3 to BC

  (10 May snow )

  Arrive KTM 27 - May says Bonicelli 12 May.
  Dotti apparently no bones broken, bruises all over.
  Wall such hard ice requires expert climbers and good weather.
  Dotti reached South Col with Manganoni. 


  MP Khanal, MFA - 17 May 74

  Abandoned: accident Mario (Dotti) 
  25 Baisak = 8 May from 7100m, slipped 150m almost to 6950m.
  Not seriously injured; spinal injury, slowly recovering.
  Had reached 7450m and were satisfied with achievement; 50m above Japanese in 1959.
  Leave BC Mon 20 Monday.


  Khanal, MFA - 29 March 74

  BC near Surung Khola 19 March (no altitude).


  Khanal, MFA - 8 March 74

  Himalchuli expedition left Trisuli Bazaar 4 March.


  Dr. Bonicelli - 19 Feb 74

  Bonicelli and 2 arrive 18 Feb 
  8 more after 5 days 24 Feb
  Go to Trisuli Bazaar and thence Buri Gandaki
  Climb: Chhulung Khola, East Face, attempted by Japanese in 1959.
  (Japanese 1960 - NW Face).


expid: KANB74101
peakid: KANB
year: 1974
route1: NW Face
nation: Poland
leaders: Piotr Mlotecki
sponsor: First Polish Himalaya Nepal Exped 1974 (Polski Club Gorski)
ascent1: 1st
approach: Dharan->Taplejung->Ghunsa
bcdate: 1974-04-16
smtdate: 1974-05-26
smttime: 1120
termdate: 1974-05-31
accidents: No accidents except Olszewski high altitude effects, but recovering
campsites:
  BC(16/04,4950m),C1(20/04,5400m),C2(02/05,5800m),C3A(05/05,6200m),C3B(14/05,6350m),C4(18/05,6700m),C5(23/05,7100m),C6(25/05,7450m),Smt(26/05)

routememo:
  MP Khanal, MFA - 28 May 74

  Climbed 26 May at 11:20 am by Branski, Rubinowski, Malatynski, Olech and Klaput. 

  6 were supposed to go to summit, but Olszewski could not go above C6 which established 25 May at 7450m. Driver and leader going up with axe and other necessary medicine for Olszewski who is sick at C6.

  Expect leave BC 31 May for Biratnagar.


  Hamal, MFA - 25 May 74 (message dated 24 May)

  Established C5 on 23 May at 7100m. Plan to establish C6 24 May and if weather favourable, make assault on summit 25 May.


  Branski - 4 Apr 74

  8 members on 29th March left Biratnagar for Taplejung.

  1 member by plane to Taplejung. Branski again to Biratnagar tomorrow.


  Branski - 21 March 74

  4 Sherpas including sirdar Dorji Walung, plus 1 cook, 2 kitchen boys and 1 mailrunner.

  3 in KTM hope leave about 26th to Biratnagar. Baggage should arrive today and 8 days to Biratnagar. No news of members coming up by car.

  Plan to fly to Taplejung if possible. Would save one week's trekking time, otherwise 15-16 days approach march to BC.


  Branski - 4 March 74

  Leader and 2 arrive today. 2 on ship to Madras with baggage. All others leave Warsaw today and of these 2 to Madras by air and 8 by car and 1 by air to Biratnagar.

  Base camp on Ramtang Glacier about 4500m. 6 to 7 light camps depending on snow conditions. Same approach as Japanese and Yugoslavs via NW Face.


  Letter from W. Branksi - April 27, 1974

  At BC on Ramtang Glacier 4950m

  Expedition Report 1

  Our advanced group consisting of Kazimierz Olech, Andrzej Gardas, Marek Malatynski, Marek Rogalski.

  Andrzej Sobolewski and two Sherpas established the BC on Ramtang Glacier at altitude of 4950m on 16th April. Three members of that group: Olech, Gardas and Sobolewski established C1 at altitude 5400m on 20th April.

  The main group with all the expedition members carried by about 195 porters arrived to Base Camp on 24th April and started to develop base arrangements. In the meantime expedition members facilitates the track between BC and C1.

  Climbing conditions not favourable. Deep snow and every day snow fall unables fast advance of mountain action.


  Letter from W. Branski - May 17, 1974

  Expedition Report 2

  On the 2nd of May three expedition members: W. Branski, Mlotecki and M. Rogalski established C2 on the snow plateau above the Ramtang Glacier icefall at altitude of about 5880m. The same team on the 6th of May established C3 at altitude of about 6200m somewhere below the ridge dividing Ramtang and Jannu glaciers.

  After finding the way up by K. Olech and A. Sobolewski, a team consisting of: W. Branski, W. Klaput, M. Malatysnki and Z. Rubinowski on 14th of May reached the col deciding to shift here C3 which now is placed at altitude of about 6350m.

  Because of the very ba weather condition (almost every day snow fall, warm, avalanches), we were forced to cancel our C1 placed somewhere in the middle of the ice fall. Now, our supply to C2 and the way up follows the old Yugoslavian track on the left side of Ramtang Glacier.

  On the 16th of May the highest reached point by our expedition had altitude of 6500m. We could not continue climbing and were forced back by heavy winding.

  On the 17th of May two expedition members: A. Gardas and A. Sobolewski leave BC going back to country.


  W. Branski - 2 July 1974

  Expedition Final Report

  About middle of May it became clear that we would not reach the top of Kangbachen while trying to establish higher camps 5 and 6 in normal way. It was decided to scale the summit in somehow alpine style climbing up with all the needed eqipment and food without coming back to lower camps for rest.

  The team is consisting 4 members: W. Branski, W. Klaput, M. Malatynski and Z. Rubinowski together with 3 Sherpas left BC on 19th of May. On 21st of May they reached C3 situated on the col. On the next day two other members acting up to now above the C3 joined the party and they established C4 an altitude 6800m. On 23 of May carrying very heavy loads (2 tents, climbing equipment and food for 5-6 days) the 6 members started to traverse steep slope. All Sherpas were send to lower camps for supply of oxygen up to the C4 in amount sufficient for only medical purposes. The party reached only 7100m and stayed at night in tents pitched in very uncomfortable platforms made by them by digging snow and ice.

  Next day they gained about 200m more continuing to traverse dangerous slope. Snow conditions were very bad. They sinked above knees. Bivouac was also very difficult. On 25 of May they reached altitude about 7500m climbing upwards steepy couloir. One of the members felt bad having symptoms of high altitude illness.

  On 26 of May team consisting 5 members and climbing without loads reached the top of Kangbachen at 11:20 am. Before reaching the top they found that both Kangbachen and Yalung Kang arise from common flat plateau. the summit of the former creates three tops, one lower rocky and two higher snowy. After visiting all of them and reporting by radio telephone to base they left a piece of paper with the date and names of members within a plastic bag put under a few stones. They took some pictures but weather was very bad, sky clouded and heavy wind.

  Liaison officer and one of the members staying actaully at BC could see 5 men at the top of Kangbachen with help of a lunnette. They started to walk down about 1 pm.

  Next day it occurred that J. Olszewski is in very bad condition, he lost conciousness and was not able to walk independently. 

  The group contacted with C4 where leader and doctor stayed actually. They both as well as another member M. Rogalski and one Sherpa left the camp carrying oxygen and walking fast to meet descending party. The descending party was forced to leave tents because sliding of the sick friend was difficult and responsible task. At the end of day they met the rescue party. There was no other possibilities but only to dig snow caves.

  The whole next day they transported the sick fellow who yet was better and tried to walk few steps afterwards resting long.

  They reached finally C4 where already more members were collected to change the tired team. They could walk now fast reaching on the same day C3. On the next day they reached BC ecaping from steep slopes where avalanches started to fall down. Remaining members came to BC on the following day.

  On the 1st of June [BC] was liquidated and with some 70 porters we started our way down. We divided ourself in different parties leaving Nepal to Poland on various ways. But majority goes the Polish-made personal cars awaiting us at Raxaul.


expid: ANNE74101
peakid: ANNE
year: 1974
route1: N Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Jose Manuel Anglada Nieto
sponsor: Spanish Annapurna Expedition
ascent1: 1st
approach: Pokhara->Mristi Khola
bcdate: 1974-04-04
smtdate: 1974-04-29
smttime: 2100
termdate: 1974-05-04
campsites: BC(04/04,4500m),C1(12/04,5250m),C3(21/04,6500m),C4(27/04,7150m),C5(28/04,7490m),Smt(29/04)
routememo:
  Pons - 17 March 79

  Spanish Annapurna expedition had no intention of climbing main summit; plan was to go to East Peak only. Had to pretend on return to KTM that had tried to go to Main Peak so as to avoid trouble with HMG.


  Anglada - 19 May 74

  All members arrive today; all well, no accidents.

  Sherpas performed very poorly. Had to be given bonus to carry above C2 and then carried only 8 kg loads.

  No attempt to reach main summit. No supplies in high camps without Sherpa support.


  Anglada - 4 March 74

  8 Sherpas (including 1 sirdar and 2 mailrunners, 1 cook, 1 kitchen boy); total 9 members.

  Dr. and 1 member arrive next week and catch up with expedition.

  Main party leave by bus about 9th or before; equipment all in Pokhara already.

  Annapurna I north side, but really interested in East Summit, a virgin peak. Depends on conditions, especially avalanches.


  Letter from Blanchard, BC - 21 Apr 74

  Establishment of BC on the  4th April. Altitude 4500m
  Establishment of C1 on the 12th April. Altitude 5200m
  Establishment of C2 on the 17th April. Altitude 5900m
  Establishment of C3 on the 21st April. Altitude 6500m

  Name of [climbing] members: J. M. Anglada Nieto, J. Pons, E. Civis, M. Martin, A. Villena and X. Perez Gil.

  Weather: very bad weather between 5 and 11th April: Afterwards sunny in the morning and normally clody in the afternoon.

  Route: C1 and C2 following French route or about. C3 more to the left treating to reach rock ridge, due to snow conditions.  


  Letter - May 6, 1974

  On the 22nd April Civis, Pons, Martin, Gil, Villena and Anglada climb to C3 at 6500m which we firmly establish by cutting a platform on the north ridge of Annapurna East. Martin and Villena go down to C2 for rest as they do not feel too good.

  24 April: While Martin and Villena climb and remain at C3, Pons, Gil, Civis and Anglada climb up to 6900m to explore the way to C4 and return to C3.

  We have a lot of problems with our Sherpas who do not wish to climb to C3 and further. This delays our climb as we are without food and gas. We finally convince them to go up to C3 but they only do it three times in the whole expedition.

  27th April: We make two groups. One support group by Gil, Martin and Villena who will act as Sherpas and will carry equipment and food to C4 and one attack group by Civis, Pons and Anglada.

  We climb up to 7150m where we establish C4 cutting a platform in the snow. The support group returns to C3 and the attack group remains here.

  28th April: The attack group leaves C4 early in the morning, but being heavily ladden and weather being also irregular only reaches 7490m where we again establish another camp on a snow platform (C5).

  29th April: We get up at 4 in the morning but only leave C5 at 7 in the morning by 24 degrees C below zero. Progress is slow. Weather is fair at the beginning but by midday we go through a small snow shower and wind which is also accompanied by an electrical storm. In the afternoon the weather is fair again and we continue. At night fall we reach a point 100m from the top. We keep going through a snow couloir about 45 degrees and with a temperature of 38 degrees C below and finally at 9 in the evening we reach the top of Annapurna East 8026 meters. On the other side of the peak we just climbed all the Sanctuary appeared to us.

  We had the moon shining that night so we started going down with her light. We tried in vain to find the fifth camp, so we had to stop at about 4 in the morning to wait for daylight. At 6 we found the tent and we later came down to C4 where we stayed for the night.

  30 April: Extremely tired we managed to go down to C3 where our friends received us with hot drinks, etc. We slept there.

  1st May: The attack and support groups go down to C1 where we meet the rest of the expedition (Benavente, Blanchard, Anglada Lasierra).

  2nd May: All go down to BC.

  We have now send our Sirdar to Chhoya to look for porters and we expect to arrive in KTM on the 20th May if everything goes Ok.

  Although we had 4 oxygen equipments with 12 bottles I am glad to tell you that we have not used them. Even if we had wished to use them we could not have done so as our Sherpas did not bring them.


  Letter from 5 April 1974

  We have at last reached our base camp at about 4500m at the foot of the Annapurna Glacier. It has been 19 days since we left Pokhara. First we had to wait a week in Pokhara till we had all the necessary Coolies, about 177, and 53 mules. We left Pokhara on the 16th of March and reached Chhoya a week later. On arrival in Chhoya the weather changed and it started to snow which made it difficult for the coolies to cross the Tholubugin pass at about 4300m. All the mules retured to Pokhara and so did most of our coolies. We had to chase for new ones and convince them to cross the pass with snow and cold. It has taken all these day to carry our 300 loads from Chhoya to the Mristi Khola. All the members, our liaison officer and a couple of Sherpas have reached the base camp but we still have half our equipment and food at one or two days from here.

  BC is very very well situated on a moraine just in front of the Annapurna Glacier. It is actually the same place chosen by the Japanese and Italian expeditions.

  Tomorrow if the weather permits we shall explore the glacier and try to establish C1 on the snow plateau at 5100m.


expid: EVER75101
peakid: EVER
year: 1975
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Eiko Hisano
sponsor: Japanese Women's Everest Expedition 1975
ascent1: 17th
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1975-03-16
smtdate: 1975-05-16
smttime: 1230
termdate: 1975-05-18
achievment: 1st ascent by a woman
campsites:
  BC(16/03,5300m),C1(03/04,6050m),C2(08/04,6400m),C3(14/04,6900m),C4(27/04,7600m),C5(14/05,7985m),C6(15/05,8500m),Smt(16/05)

routememo:
  Miss Arayama engaged to Yoshitada Numao who was killed on Dhaulagiri I 26 March.


  Dr. Wibin, Swiss Lhotse expedition - 9 Dec 78

  Japanese women Everest: 2 women tried to go top 2 days after Tabei and Ang Tsering had. Ang Tsering went back from South Col to South Summit to rescue 2nd team in trouble in their attempt and brought them down safely (trouble? Wibin doesn't know) (Ang Tsering was sirdar for Swiss Lhotse 1978 and Wibin saw pictures at his home in Namche regarding above and AT's being given award by HMG).


  Tabei - 29 May 75

  Will continue climb and adventure. Wants to go to No. 1 and No. 2 Poles (Everest is 3rd Pole) but no specific plans; only wants to go.

  Just not very tired. SW Face Everest route not interesting for me - want to go to K2 which interests her from Photos and which had planned to climb 7-8 years ago with friend who very strong climber but who died in Japanese Alps Mt. Taraigawa, Miss Lumi Saso, Tokyo; for many years they climbed together. To K2 with the women only. In Japan housekeeper very difficult to go out of house - my home different because my husband likes to climb and adventure - no plans to climb together in near future.

  Worked 10 years in Physical Soc of Japan but after daughters birth stopped working, but now daughter 3 years old and I can go out again; would like to go back to Physical Soc.

  All men limit our likes and I do not want to be limited.

  Enjoy piano and Koto (Japanese stringed instrument) which I teach after stopping work - my student very small, many people waiting - new house 12 students in piano (1/2 2 times a week).

  Everest high altitude and heavy snow and my spirit is steady on very dangerous knife ridge. High altitude very steep knife ridge more different than expected.

  Sure she would succeeed because my condition very good and my spirit said I must climb and Ang Tsering very strong, very good climb, very nice person very good mind.

  In KTM thought younger members go to top and Tabei stay at C2 as deputy leader's duty, but young members did not acclimatize well. After avalanche I think young members not so good condition and leader said I go so I decided to go (3 members went to Pheriche to rest).

  43 kg now - lost on 1 or 2 Kg on mountain - good appetites all times even in C6
  152 cm tall.

  "If Chinese climbed including 1 woman very good, but I don't believe; 9 people to top together impossible; 3 only as summit very small, etc; neither Tabei or Ang Tsering saw no sign of Chinese base camp or other camps or any activity despite fact all Tibet very clear from summit and Ang Tsering has very good eyesight.

  Departure from Nepal not fixed but probably 7 of team leave 3 or 4 June for Delhi and Taj Mahal, then Japan while others stay longer in KTM. 


  Tabei & Hisano, press conf - 28 May 75

  Saw no evidence of Chinese on Everest.

  Only 1 woman on top because suffered from avalanche in C2 and no time to carry food for more than 2 summiters 1 Japanese and 1 Sherpa

  Was women's expedition because planning in Japan by woman; 50% finished in Japan.

  Deputy leader not leader to top because no reason for leader to go to top.

  No problems between Japanese and Sherpas.

  Avalanche hit C2 4 May (13 injured). Tabei sleeping in same bag with Watanabe and suddenly heavy shock and couldn't move and didn't understand what happened. Took Miyohara in same tent to cut it open. Tabei could scarcely breathe and couldn't see: thought she would die; can't remember how long under avalanche (2-3 mins). Sirdar pulled her out of tent by her feet and saved her life. Stayed in C2; thought her condition would be better and could climb again. 1 week rest in camp (2 days sleeping) and then climbed again. If she went down would be impossible for her to reach summit; only shock, no injuries.

  Hisano: all 7 members in C2 suffered from shock and slept 2 days.

  Tabei: thought "very tired" when reached top, no need climb more; used oxygen from C4 all time except eating and radio. 

  Hisano: as Tabei started from C6 to top, thought of weather and how she felt and route to summit (too steep) need good communication with partner, dangerous knife-edge, and for women too long route and too deep snow - each step very slow. Ang Tsering was going faster. They changed off leading to top but Ang Tsering reached summit first. Most difficult part of climb from South Summit to main summit because knife ridge. Hillary chimney full of snow and had to clear it of snow.

  Left C6 5:50 am
  S Summit 9:40 am
  Main summit 12:30 pm 
  South Col C5 7:30 pm 
  Said to Lhakpa Rinzing at South Col: "Thank you very much."

  When reached top talked by walkie-talkie to leader in C2; now we arrived at the top and time is 12:35 (watch 5 minutes fast).

  "Thanks to all members and all Sherpas;" leader's reply "very welcome."

  Mrs Tabei wants go to South Pole, not for climbing but just reach Pole; may be continue climbing, but no definite plans for future; would like go Hawaii for sea.

  Tabei left Thermos and Nepal flag and carried 24 stones from summit (drank tea on top). 

  70-80 empty oxyen bottles on South Col. Tabei and Ang Tsering left 2 bottles on S Summit.

  Hisano: may leave Nepal 3 June for Japan.


  Mrs Tabei - 28 May 75

  At airport: Do next, I don't know - reach Tokyo in 1 week or 10 days.
  "Very tired" when reached summit where spent 15 minutes taking pictures.
  Ang Tsering on top first.


  M.S. Kohli - 22 May 75

  After 1st ascent of an over 8000m peak and 1st ascent of Everest in 1953, this 3rd most important news in mountaineering. 4th would be Everest without oxygen.


  HM Queen of Nepal to Mrs. Hisano:

  I am indeed very happy to learn that in International Womens Year your all-women's expedition has for 1st time successfully scaled Mt. Sagarmatha highest peak of world. The skill and fortitude of the members of expedition during this challenging task has been most admirable and all congratulation to you as well as all members and especially Mrs Junko Tabei for reaching summit. The achievement will be an inspiration to women all over world.

  The cooperation rendered by the Nepalese guides especially Mr Ang Tshering who also reached summit along with Mrs Tabei deserves special appreciation.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 17 May 75

  Everest summit 12:30 midday yesterday
    Tabei
    Sirdar Ang Tsering
  Started from C6 at 5:00 am


  MP Khanal, MFA - 16 May 75

  C6 15 May, 8500m
  Earlier programme of summit attempt by same people still stands.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 16 May 75

  C5 established 14 May 7985m by Tabei, Ang Tsering, Susumu Nakamura (camera)
  If weather favourable, will attempt 16 May.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 13 May 75

  2 members, Tabei and Watanabe, and Ang Tsering sirdar. Plan make final attempt on 15 May if weather conditions are favourable.

  These 3 left C2 on 11 May and same day to 13 May were supposed to complete their supply of food and equipment to C5.


  MP Khanal, MFA

  Expedition continues
  Mrs Hisano left BC for C1 on 7 May
  Only 1 Sherpa much injured


  MP Khanal, MFA - 18 March 75

  Everest Base Camp
  16 March 5350m - 6 members and 215 Sherpas and 480 porters.

  Mrs Hisano now in Lobuche as per her letter to Khanao of 16th March; she in 2nd group which will be in BC on 18th; all fine.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 5 March 75

  Leader went to Tokyo last week and returns in fortnight (private problem).
  Expedition at Thyangboche acclimatization camp.

  Camp tonight at Lamosangu. Nasu and Naganuma in Lukla, Hirashima and Fujiwara stay in KTM.

  About 10 flights total required
  - 1st was on 7th Feb

  23 Sherpas for climb including sirdar Ang Tsering 
  7 Shepras for press

  LO is Pasang Tenzing

  2 cooks, 4 kitchen boy and 10 local porters carrying above BC


  Hisano - 9 Feb 75

  Summit? "yes of course I hope so" - 2 members for top

  "Very calm" now reach Lukla 20 or 21 Feb; 400 and porters from Lukla; 50 from Lamosangu

  Oxygen bottles 6 or 7 Kg; not so heavy; total 160 with expedition
  BC 18 Monday; climbing 20 and C2 

  When expedition success; will feel "very delightful" because we tried for long time to climb Everest so we'll be happy.


  Mrs Hisano - 30 Jan 75

  Chances for success "maybe, if all members physical condition and weather good."

  13 members arrive today

  Leave Feb 9 -10 days - 2 weeks aft Shyangboche for acclimatization.

  BC established 17 March and climbing 2-3 days afterwards.

  Icefall is very difficult; "most different place on Everest." Recently every team have accident in Icefall; if we can cross safely, 50% chance for success.

  2 members attempt summit maybe with Sherpa in hope summit 10-15 May, using oxygen.

  South Face very difficult, so chose South Col.


  Ed Hillary - 30 Jan 75

  Regarding women's Everest expedition:

  "Although best women climbers not yet in class with best men climbers, I see no reason why women can't climb Everest as long as their expedition fulfills all necessary qualifications:

  Members should be fit, good organization, good equipment.

  Strong bunch of Sherpas, good relations with members and some luck with weather that's all it takes to climb Everest.


  Tabei - 27 Jan 75

  2 members here now - 13 more including Dr and leader arrive 30 Jan
  RNAC ex-BKK  - 29  2 reporters
                 30  1 reporters

  Total including cameraman 
  15 members including Dr and leader

  Start 9 Feb trek from Lamosangu; baggage to Lukla with 2 members stay 2 weeks Shyangboche and climb 5000-6000m peaks; "warming up."

  Leave Shyangboche about 12 March and make BC 17 March

  Route via South Col

  Summit 50-10 May with 1 team of 2 or 3 members
  Using oxygen C4 and above in climbing and sleeping; C3 sleeping 

  6 camps above BC; highest about 8500m = C6

  Leader to C2 only (went to 6900m on Annapurna III)

  Annapurna III - 3 including leader
  Everest BC
  Annapurna trek
  McKinley


  Everest, Premonsoon 1975 by Japanese Women
  By Eiko Hisano & Junko Tabei in JJAC 1975

  Acclimatization

  Only two had experienced 7-thousander and six had climbed 5-thousander out of 15 members. We took 40 days for caravan and walked 80 km. Also practised acclimatization during the march. We stayed at Thyangboche (3800m) in the earliest two weeks in March and exercised hikings up to 4500m three times. Although all members safely reached BC at 5350m, three became sick and were obliged to descend 1000m lower place, for a week.

  Two weeks were spent for settling C1 above icefall. Fourteen times in turn climbed up and down between 5350m and 6000m. Although the lifting was very very useful for acclimatization, we were very lucky that no serious accident happened in the Icefall. C2 and C3 were so smoothly settled that some members could not acclimatize the height sufficiently. Members who adjusted to the height quickly were likely to do overwork and it seemed to be accelerating their acclimatization.

  Lhotse Face, between C3 and C4 was very hard for us. Originally, we had planned to use 60 oxygen cylinders for the route making. Actually, however, we merely consumed oxygen 0.5 liter per minute during sleeps at C3 on account of the delay of gear lifting. Both members and Sherpas worked there without oxygen. Only four members could stay at C4. And route between C4 and South Col was developed by Sherpas. Members reached under Yellow Band at our highest. It was because high winds on April 30 prevented us to change members at C5 and on the next day, Sherpas at C4 developed the route to South Col. We were obliged to spend for a week to clear the damages of snow avalanche at C2. Therefore, only attack team reached South Col. We are now at least satisfied that all the members except for doctor experienced the height of C3 (6900m). We could have sent four teams to C4. But we could not so. We had little time and the mountain was too huge to do so.

  Snow Avalanche
   
  We were assaulted by a snow avalanche at C2, at 0:30 on May 4. Seven members and 22 Sherpas, and three reporters slept there. The scale of the avalanche was great enough to run over crevasses and collapsed five tents on the plateau and reached West ridge side. If our tent site had been located a dozen meters lower at usual tent site, all the 32 members and C2 must have been buried under the snow. When settling C2 we firmly believed that the place was safe enough from avalanches. Since we found dusty ruins of the Spanish Party the year before, we moved up the site to the higher plateau.

  Two member's, two reporter's and a Sherpa's tents out of nine at C2 were buried under ice blocks. Two and five woman members respectively slept in two tents. Suddenly, terrific sounds were heard and the next moment, huge blocks carried our tents down for a dozen meters. Only Watanabe who at once fled from her tent was caught in ice blocks. Four other members were lying upon one another under the snow in tent. Other two in another tent were trying to cut open inner sheet by their teeth under the snow. Sirdar Ang Tsering, on the other hand, could not sleep in his tent. At the moment heard unusually terrific sounds in the darkness, he woke up fellow Sherpas and tried to protect frames and poles. Huge ice blocks went by their heads. When the fall down stopped, they went out from their tents and soon heard cries of Watanabe not so far. Sherpas immediately out open our tents and rescued all that being buried. Some of us might have been crushed to death it their rescue had delayed. At 6500m of altitudes was we feel choky even staying quietly. I saw various colors in my eyes and almost abandoned my life.

  The avalanche was a very incident for us. But I was reassured and felt it sufficient when I was told all were safe. In the next morning, I decided to my to continue the climbing.

  Ascent

  Left C6 at South Peak on the Summit, at C6 and returned to C5 were the record of Tabei and Ang Tshering on May 16. We woke up at 3:50 at C6 and lit gas heater. I had two cups of coffee for breakfast. Ang Tshering had 8 mm movie and a camera, a pack of biscuit and thermos. Tabei brought two cameras and transreceiver. Oxygen was adjusted to 3 litter. Ang Tsering led first. I followed him with 20m of main rope. Russels of knee depth snow began from the exit of tent. Snow became deeper on this ridge. I took turns of ressel on the way. Rocks appeared but still hard to walk on thin and soft rocks mixed with snow. The rocky section coninued for seven pitches of length. South Peak was reached at 9:40. Half buried cylinders were remained in the snow. We changed cylinders there. Ang Tsering left 150 and I left only 40 atm. Then communicated with leader Hisano at C2. Ate biscuit and tea still a little bit hot.

  Once we had to descend steep ridge. At a very thin part, we had to straddle with my neck over Tibetan side and feet over Nepalese side and the sharp knife-edged ridge was just in front of my breast. Steadily, we sidled very slowly. Hillary's Chimney stood on the bottom of the thin ridge. During the climb there, when I saw our C2 far below my foot, I became almost mad with the keenest tension. Again steep ridges covered with hard snow continued above the Chimney. Every step became hard. I happened to think over 37 climbers who once climbed there. Matsuura, Uemura, Hirabayashi, Ishiguro and Kato, these five Japanese also climbed there. Climb and rest, I moved my legs. I shall reach the summit soon if I continue the climb. When I stepped into a soft snow, I saw mountains on Tibetan side. Suddenly Ang Tshering cried, "Mrs Tabei, we are on the summit." I need not climb furthermore. At last I have come to the top. It was 12:30. Six and a half hours have passed since we started from C6. Clouds were drifting over Nepalese mountains but clear sky above Tibetan side. I saw big panoramas of Jannu, Makalu, Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, Kangtega, Thamserku, Tawache, Gaurishankar, Cho Oyu, Gyachung Kang under my eyes.


  Deputy Leader did, due to extreme lack of oxygen and exhaustion, fall down slopes from 8500m to 8300m rolling over and over and had serious head injuries.


  Jimmy Roberts-Elizabeth Hawley

  The member of last autumn's Swiss Lhotse expedition who told me about his expedition, Dr. Wabin, said their sirdar was Ang Tsering of Namche Bazar, who was an Everest summiter with the Japanese ladies in the spring of 1975. He was a H-A porter on the Italian Everest expedition.

  Ang Tsering told Dr. Wabin, and showed him pictures in his Namche home to support his tale, that in 1975 he and Mrs. Tabei went to the summit together, he then descended only as far as the South Col, and two days later had to go back up to the South Summit to rescue a second summit-assault team who had gotten into trouble at the South Summit. (Nature of the trouble not known to Dr. Wabin.) Ang Tsering managed to bring the two ladies in distress down the mountain safely. Tremendous accomplishment, Dr. Wabin says.

  When the ladies returned to KTM from Everest in 1975, the leader and Mrs. Tabei held a press conference. They were asked, according to my notes, whether there had been another summit attempt besides the successful one of Mrs. Tabei and Ang Tsering, and the answer was no, that an avalanche which had hit Camp 2 had caused such havoc to supplies and personnel (several Japanese ladies were injured, actually including Mrs. Tabei) that they could mount only one summit bid with the supplies they were able to get into the high camps after the avlanche. There was absolutely no mention of two ladies in distress being rescued from the jaws of death by heroic Ang Tsering.


expid: TUKU74101
peakid: TUKU
year: 1974
route1: N Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yoshio Ogata
sponsor: Rock & Snow Alpine Club
ascent1: 3rd official
approach: Pokhara->Kali Gandaki->Dhampus Pass
bcdate: 1974-04-01
smtdate: 1974-04-21
smttime: 1100
termdate: 1974-04-23
othersmts: Climbed Dhampus Peak (DHAM-741-01)
campsites: BC(01/04,5100m),C1(04/04,5600m),C2(10/04,6300m),Smt(21/04)
routememo:
  Also climbed Dhambush Peak (6012m). All 4 Japanese. 26 April from same base camp (no other camps).


  Tukuche Exp - 18 May 74

  C2 to summit long way: 15 hours.
  No C3, takes more days, more Sherpas.

  C2 left 3:00 am all 4 together. Reached summit 11 am. Arrive C2 6 pm after 1 hour on summit taking photos, etc. Good weather with some wind.

  Then climbed Thapa Peak 26 April 6012m northeast from Tukuche from BC. All 4 members, 7 hours round trip. Many trekkers climb Thapa Peak.

  Now one month trek in Solukhumbu.


  Ogata - 2 March 74

  4 members. 2 including leader arrive yesterday.
  6 March by bus to Pokhara. Caravan starts 11 March and arrives BC in Hidden Valley.

  Route: North Ridge, same as 1969 Swiss and 1970 and 1972 Japanese.

  2 high camps; C1 5700m
                 C2 6300m
                 Biv 6700m at Junction Peak

  1 Sirdar, 1 Sherpa, 1 cook, 1 kitchen boy, 2 mailrunners, 1 local porter

  1st summit attack 21 April so all members reach summit.


expid: CHRW74101
peakid: CHRW
year: 1974
route1: W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiroaki Yamada
sponsor: Meihou Mountaineering Society Himalayan Expedition 1974
bcdate: 1974-04-06
smtdate: 1974-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 6830m after member became sick (AMS) at C4
campsites: BC(06/04),C1(08/04,4700m),C2(20/04,5500m),C3(02/05,6150m),C4(12/05,6650m),xxx(6830m)
accidents: 4 member were sick: 1 in lungs from altitude, 2 liver and 1 very tired
routememo:
  Yamada - 3 June 74

  4 members were sick: 1 in lungs from altitude, 2 liver and 1 very tired.

  Mori and Othuka reached 6830m on 14 May, but Mori because sick at this altitude and therefore only Yamada and Othuka in C4 and well. Then stopped climbing 15 May.

  West Ridge route very difficult: all rock C2-C3 all rock ridge: new route - left side of SW Face-West Ridge. 600m fixed rope between C2 and C3. C1 also rock: rock face and easy glacier and here 550m fixed rope; above C3 to C4 narrow snow ridge 500m rope; above C4 more fixed rope 200m and on glacier 200m; total 2050m fixed rope.

  Possible reach summit by West Ridge with 8-10 members with 4-5 strong. One more camp necessary with (1000m) more fixed rope - camp about 7000m.

  No accident, no yeti.

  Leave Nepal 7 May


  Churen

  Abandoned 16 May due to bad weather and sickness of 4 members. Established C4 at 6650m 12 May. 2 members reached 6830m towards C5.


  Suganumo - 21 May 74

  Japanese embassy understands Churen Himal abandoned about one week ago; reached C4. Reason not known. Are on way to KTM.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 4 April 74

  LO reports bad weather has held up expedition at Gurjagaon; 8 days of continuous snow; still on way to base camp on 29 March.


  8 Feb 74

  22 Feb leader + 3 members arrive
  2 here now and today

  Go to Pokhara 28 Feb 
  West Ridge, same route 1969 and 1971,


  Yamada - 26 Feb 74

  28 Feb fly to Pokhara. Caravan 15 March (waiting for snow go off pass on) to 1 April at BC.

  Base camp 4100m in Kaphe Khola for assault on West Peak.

  1962 Japanese - north side?
  1970  Koreans - east side
  1969 Italians - West Ridge
  1970 Japanese - West Ridge
  1971 Japanese - West Ridge
  1974 Japanese - West Ridge

  Present expedition: 6 camps, C6 6900m on West Ridge
  Summit attack 10-20 March
  Maybe success; difficult route very steep

  C3 6000m on col between Putha Hiunchuli and Churen = adv camp. thence C4, C5 and C6 on West Ridge.

  Sherpas: 1 sirdar Ang Temba and 5 + 1 cook and 2 mailrunner and 1 kitchen boy


  Hiroaki Yamada

  Leave KTM 28 Feb
  Charter flight to Pokhara
  All members arrive today 22 Feb


expid: MANA74101
peakid: MANA
year: 1974
route1: E Ridge (to 6000m)
route2: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Tsuneo Kuroishi
sponsor: Women's Manaslu Expedition 1974
ascent2: 6th
approach: Trisuli Bazar->Buri Gandaki->Samagaon
bcdate: 1974-03-03
smtdate: 1974-05-04
smttime: 1730
termdate: 1974-05-13
accidents: Teiko Suzuki disappeared (fell?) near C5
achievment: Photos confirm true summit
campsites:
  E-Ridge-BC(03/03,4400m),C1(10/03,5200m),C2(26/03,6000m),xxx; NE-Face-BC(01/04,4350m),C1(5300m),C2(5900m),C3(10/04,6500m),C4(28/04,7150m),C5(03/05,7650m),TrueSmt(04/05)

routememo:
  Nakaseko - 28 May 74

  C5 established 3rd May by 3 members and Jangbu Sherpa with help of 3 Sherpas who then went down to C3. Start from C5 4th May. One member and Jangbu left 8:30 am and 30 minutes later other 2 left C5. Mrs Uchida and Jangbu at 150m from summit waited for others: met at 4 pm. Then other 2 went ahead and a member reached 5:30 pm, Mrs Uchida and Jangbu at summit 10-15 minutes later and Mori reached 6 pm. Top very breakable rock - 150m down narrow snow ridge. Very clear weather at summit but stayed 5 minutes only (for photos) after leaving 2 flags because it's late. Could clearly see they were on highest summit. Reached C5 by another route by Nakaseko and Mori 10 pm (Mori's oxygen iced) while others reached 9 pm by same route as ascent. Mrs Uchida little frostbite on one finger but all right now. 

  Went to C3 5th May - from C4 to C5 for summit next day: Miss Suzuki, Ito and 2 Sherpas. Suzuki maybe arrived 7400m and Ito 7400m or 7450m. Route C4 to C5 all fixed rope so not necessary to rope together. Suzuki left C4 9:30, Ito left C4 10:00, 3 support Sherpas left C4 before. 2 members, 2 Sherpas after Ito each by himself. Suzuki almost at C5 on on small plateau where end of fixed rope - rucksack, ice axe but not for the coat found on 6th May near end of fixed rope.

  Ito turned back because very strong wind and snow blizzard; left her rucksack at 7450m. Couldn't reach C4 herself: Sherpa found her in snow at 10:45 a little above C4, but next day could not remember coming to end of fixed rope.

  All night open and bright lights in camps including C5 where 3 Sherpas slept. 5th night, we could not sleep all night.

  6th May 5 am Miss Suzuki missing and Sherpas went to search for her. Think she fell or was blown off balance when changing to down jacket in strong wind at 6 or 7 pm. 5th May 6th May also strong wind.

  Had placed 3rd summit party but then bad weather after 6th. 2 members were to be in this party when got good weather and Sherpas give help which didn't want to do, didn't want to carry to C5.

  Miss Suzuki looked a bit sick on 5th May to a member. Not so good acclimatization and should be stopped but could not be. Contacted by radio; maybe this caused death.

  E Ridge route not possble this team because a knife ridge route not possible for this team, because Sherpas not able to climb so far a fixed rope and difficult with loads; route changed end and shifted C3 up 200m.

  None will come to Everest in 1975 because 2 yrs succession; not enough money saved and each must pay for herself. Very happy to reach 8000m, but because of loss of Miss Suzuki cannot feel completely happy. 3 members still not here, maybe porter trouble on PKR highway.


  Hamal - 11 May 74

  Reached summit May 4 5:30 pm by 3 Japanese, 1 Sherpa.

  3rd May while going to establish C5, member Suzuki is reported missing. Sherpas tried to find her but not successful, but now taken as dead.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 7 April 74

  Plan to go E Ridge and change to E Wall; very difficult to establish C3 and waiting for MFA approval. Leader wrote to MFA 31 March 3; MFA says OK and will reach after 3 days.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 17 March 74

  C1 - 10 March 4980m Miss Sato by helicopter.


  Suzuki - 8 Feb 74

  Leader is doctor and will stay at camp 4200m. Has been to Peru Andes and Everest trek. 1st summit team 2 members, as many as possible after that. 5 camps above base, highest 7850m.

  Route starts via E Ridge and traverses to join 1956 route on NE side; at C4 7400m join old route, E Ridge part.

  1 member Japanese Mrs Nagasako: "We try to make on best effort to get summit" at end of April.

  Leave Kathmandu 14th Feb by road to Trisuli Bazaar; in Base 1-2 March
  15 Sherpas (no women).


  Some Sherpas complained that we were too slow, we could not have made concession with them. We did not want to be said "Sherpa make" ascent later. Sherpas then sometimes went slow-down their tasks. We gradually mastered how to control them. Discord between two sirdars and troubles between their facilities however had always been our cause of anxiety.

  Carrying goods to C1 went on smoothly. Members also engaged in the work for the practice of acclimatization. Although loads were limited under 15 kg, some were completely tired out when returned to BC. Strict health examination prevented serious maladjustment. C1 was built at 5200m on March 10. I made a rotation program of members of staying alternately in C1 for acclimatization. We began to make route to C2 from 18th. Nakaseko, Harada and two sirdars climbed up the couloir to east ridge. They found the rope which our reconnaissance party had left a year before was still useful. The weather changed to snow from afternoon every day. C2 was built at 6000m on East Ridge on March 26. Without a break, we attempted to make route to a rock peak which we had thought the first barrier to the summit. It took five days to traverse unsteady ice wall and to reach the foot of the rock peak. Sherpas would not bear over 15 kg of loads and arbitrarily fixed ropes on route. The shortage of ropes and snowbar became evident and carrying of goods delayed much.

  All members gathered in BC on March 31 and discussed whether to convert our attacking route or not. Some members strongly disagreed the route change. We consumed half a day in discussion and finally decided the matter by majority. We began to prepare the shift of our BC from the next day. Sama porters took advantage to our difficult conditions and Zangbu would build C5 on May 3 and to attack the summit by two members in good condition and the others would support them on the next day.

  Nakeseko reported that Sherpas showed threatening behaviour. They complained that we chose Zangbu as attacking member overheading sirdar Dawa Wangchu. They began slowing down of works. Although we had asked  Dawa Wangchu to nominate an attacker from Sherpas, he could not select after all and asked us to choose one. We chose Zangbu instead of sirdar Dawa Wangchu since the sirdar had some anxieties in his health. Although Sherpas in C3 promised to support attackers, some fear remained since I could not directly grasp the situation of upper camps.

  It was unusually clear sky in the morning. There was no smoke of snow on the summit of Manaslu which was dyed in orange. Uchida and Zangbu started from C5 at 8:30. Nakaseko and Mori followed them 30 minutes later. They steadily climbed up. Uchida and Zangbu reached a pinnacle at 15:00. Zangbu thought the false summit as the true one. Nakaseko at the head, then Uchida, Zangbu and Mori followed her in order. They found a haven which must have supported the climb of JAC 1956 just below the summit. Nakaseko and Uchida made concession each other for a while and at last the attacking leader Nakaseko at first stood on the summit. It was 17:30. After an hour of stay there, they began descent. I could hear their voices at 19:30. They breathlessly spoke through tranceiver. To my surprise, all the members except Mori climbed up and down without oxygen for four hours from the false summit. They returned to C5 safely at 22:00.

  On May 5, Suzuki and Itoh who were the second attacking members were lost on their way from C4 to C5. We found ata 18:00 that both members had not reached to C5 yet. Nakeseko who were in C3 said that the route between C4 and C5 were almost fixed by ropes. C5 communicated at 19:30. The Sherpas in C5 said that Suzuki and Itoh seemed to go back to C4 abandoning to try the summit. The weather had changed to fierce blizzard. They did not return by 20:30. We took emergency. C4 reported that they found Itoh standing faintly near C4 at 23:00. We expected Suzuki would come.


  Manaslu: Premonsoon 1974 by Tsune Kuroishi

  East Ridge

  We built BC on a plateau at 4400m on March 3 and finished carrying up goods there on the next day. We began the preparation of carrying up good and reconassance from March 5. Members always were at the head of every activity and work. Although some Sherpas complained that we were too slow, we would not have made concession with them. We did not want to be said "Sherpas make" ascent later. Sherpas then sometimes went slow down their tasks. We gradually mastered how to control them. Discord between two sirdars and troubles between their facilities, however had always been our cause of anxiety.

  Carrying goods to C1 went on smoothly. Members also engaged in the work for the practise of acclimatization. Although loads were limited under 15 kg, some were completely tired out when returned to BC. Strict health examination prevented serious maladjustment. C1 was built at 5200m on March 10. I made a rotation program of members of staying alternately in C1 for acclimatization. We began to make route to C2 from 18th. Nakaseko, Harada and two sirdars climbed up the colouir to east ridge. They found the rope which our reconnaissance party had left a year before was still useful. The weather changed to snow from afternoon every day. C2 was built at 6000m on east ridge on March 26. Without a break, we attempted to make route to a rock peak which we had thought the first barrier to the summit. It took five days to traverse unsteady ice wall and to reach the foot of the rock peak. Sherpas would not bear over 15 kg of loads and arbitralily fixed ropes on route. The shortage of ropes and snow bar became evident and carrying of goods delayed much.

  Conversion of attack route

  All members gathered in BC on March 31 and discussed whether to convert our attacking route or not. Some members strongly disagreed the route change. We consumed half a day in discussion and finally decided the matter by majority. We began to prepare the shift of our BC from the next day. Sama porters took advantage to our difficult conditions and intended to raise wages. As we rejected it took nine days for the shift of BC. Five members led by Nakaseko began to attack by JAC route in this while.

  On our way to the new BC, we could find signs of spring after a month's stay in the snow. Tiny flowers and fresh greens pleased us much.

  We hurried to rebuild BC, but, at that stage, the liaison officer forbade us to go ahead because he suspected our route change objected the permission. We had to wait for a while without activities till he received the approval of competent authority. Nakaseko team had already built C1 and were making route to C2. We hired 37 porters for the carrying of goods between BC and C1, and seven local porters for C1-C2. We could regain the delay of schedule by it.

  I could feel complaints of members who had engaged in the withdrawal of the former BC. Nakaseko insisted that as her team members acclimatized to 6000m, she would make C3 by these members. The others complained that they had no freedom to climb up but only climb down. I could not communicate well with Nakaseko through transceiver. It was lucky for me when Nakaseko injured her health  a little and climbed down to BC. Nakaseko, Uchida and I discussed the problem about the attack members. At first we did not include Sherpas in attacking team but later added some since they requested.

  Nakaseko returned to C2 on April 16 and determined the place of C3. Although fixed ropes on steep slopes, members need not wear climbing irons. We made direct route from C3 to C4 on the "back of Whale." Conditions of snow changed frequently by the wind blowing down from North Col. Sherpas requested to fix ropes for about 800m between 6600m of altitude and C4. Although we had much snow, we could steadily continued to build camps. Three days of behind schedule, on April, 28, we built C4. Members began to use oxygen above C4. When sleeping, I tasked them to consume oxygen 0.5 litre a minute.

  We began to make route to C5 from 29th. Itoh with three Sherpas determined the place for C5 at 7650m om May 1. I talked with Nakaseko and decided the candidate for attacking members as Nakaseko, Uchida, Sekita, Kuribayashi and Mori. Also, I order sirdar, Ila Tsering to go up to C2 and support attacking members. Sherpas carried goods to C5 and Nakaseko, Uchida and Mori went to C4 on May 2. I could directly talk wth Nakaseko through transceiver. She reported that the three members and Zangbu would build C5 on May 3 and to attack the summit by two members in good condition and the others would support them on the next day.

  Nakaseko reported that Sherpas showed threatening behaviour. They complained that we chose Zangbu as attacking member overheading sirdar Dawa Wangchhu. They began slowing down of works. Although we had asked Dawa Wangchhu since the sirdar had some anxieties in his health. Although Sherpas in C3 promised to support attackers, some fear remained since I could not directly grasp the situation of upper camps.

  It was unusually clear sky in the morning. There was no smoke of snow on the summit of Manaslu which was dyed in orange. Uchida and Zangbu started from C5 at 8:30. Nakaseko and Mori followed them 30 minutes later. They steadily climbed up. Uchida and Zangbu reached a pinnacle at 15:00. Zangbu insisted to return from there. Nakaseko and Mori overtook them. Zangbu thought the false summit as the true one. Nakaseko at the head, then Uchida, Zangbu and Mori followed her in order.

  They found a haken which must have supported the climb of JAC 1956 just below the summit. Nakaseko and Uchida made concession each other for a while and at last the attacking leader, Nakaseko at first stood on the summit. It was 17:30. After an hour of stay there, they began descent. I could hear their voices at 19:30. They breathlessly spoke through transceiver. To my surprise, all the members except Mori climbed up and down without oxygen for four hours from the false summit. They returned to C5 safely at 22:00.

  Disaster

  On May 5, Suzuki and Itoh who were the second attacking members were lost on their way from C4 to C5. We found at 18:00 that both members had not reached to C5 yet. Nakaseko who were in C3 said that the route between C4 and C5 were almost fixed by ropes. C5 communicated at 19:30. The Sherpas in C5 said that Suzuki and Itoh seemed to go back to C4 abandoning to try the summit. The weather had changed to fierce blizzard. They did not return by 20:30. We took emergency. C4 reported that they found Itoh standing faintly near C4 at 23:00. We expected Suzuki would come back too. However, she did not come back that night.

  In the early next morning, members in C4 and C5 began to search. Dawa Wangchu and Mingma in C5 began descent in the strong wind. They found Suzuki's pickel and oxygen cylinder just below the plateau. They however, could not collect them by strong wind. Morever, they found her windjacket with climbing belt near C4 and collected it.

  We guess that Suzuki must have been blown away when she ws changing her clothes (to feather wear) without maintaining her body to fixed rope. She slipped down to near C4 and C5 since they used climbing belts to fixed rope and also used jumar.

  The weather was worsening and Sherpas began descent from upper camps neglecting our request to stay. We could take Itoh down to 3 to our best. I ordered withdrawal of upper camps on May 7. All members came back to BC on May 8.

  We returned  Sama and had funeral of Suzuki at lamaery on May 13. We built a memorial stones of Suzuki on a hill where Manaslu could be seen well. We started from Sama on May 17.

  Our attempt seems to bave proved that mountaineering of eight thousander is possible by women if making schedule suitable for female. The possibility however, is merely physiological one. We were not matured in public relations. We have many to be reflected about the matter. We hope women parties in the future can get better fruits standing on our experience.


expid: YALU74101
peakid: YALU
year: 1974
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Shojiro Toriumi
sponsor: Nihon University
approach: Dharan->Yalung Glacier (BC)
bcdate: 1974-03-21
smtdate: 1974-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 8400m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(21/03,5250m),C1(02/04,6000m),C3(19/04,7000m),C4,C5(13/04,7950m),xxx(14/04,8400m)
routememo:
  Hirano - 3 June 74

  Hirano and Hiyama arrive 1 June, all others about 15 June. Turned back from probably 8400m (summit 8500m) because weather bad; very deep snow there and route far from last camp to summit.

  Needed one more camp. C5 at 7950m. Needed about C6 but this expedition hadn't facilities. C4 -> C5 difficult climb. 


  MP Khanal, MFA - 26 May 74

  Abandoned attempt, reached 8400m on 14 May by 2 members Pasang Sherpa and Ryuji Hirano, but could not reach summit because bad weather and snowfall.

  C5 established by Kato and 6 Sherpas 13 May at 7950m.

  SE ridge difficult because very deep snow; route is possible but problem is very big mountain.
  All well, no accident.


  Hirano - 14 Feb 74

  Leader and 4 arrive today and Hirano here earlier. 5 others already arrived, left yesterday by bus to Dharan. Those in KTM leave KTM 18 Feb to Biratnagar and meet there those who left by bus. Leave Dharan 19 Feb. About 40 days caravan to BC on Yalung Glacier about 5400m. Reach BC end March/1st April.

  Route from SE Ridge. 1955 British route up to 7000m, from which new route via SE Ridge, but not sure because may be many dangerous snow avalanches and may have to shift route. Final ridge sharp knife-ridge rather long. Kyoto Univ route was SW Ridge.

  6 camps above BC, highest at 8000m
  Summit about 10 May; hope put 2 or 3 teams on top but very difficult.
  20 Sherpas including mailrunner; 16 climbing Sherpas.


expid: ANNS74101
peakid: ANNS
year: 1974
route1: SW Ridge-S Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Tsuneo Suzuki
sponsor: Himalayan Expedition of Gamagori Alpine Club 1974
approach: Pokhara->Modi Khola
bcdate: 1974-03-14
smtdate: 1974-04-26
termdate: 1974-05-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to technically too difficult route
campsites:
  BC1(14/03,4200m),C1(19/03,4800m),C2(01/04,5400m); BC2(05/04,4050m); BC3(08/04,3700m),C3(13/04,5600m),xxx(26/04,6000m)

routememo:
  Suzuki - 15 May 74

  All members arrive today.

  SW Ridge very difficult - no success: not enough technique. 2nd avalanche lost much (30-70%) food and 10% equipment including all medicine.

  Normal route, party's technique all right, but SW Ridge steep rock face - above C1 all fixed rope.

  2 avalanches:
    1st 4 April 10 pm. 1st BC hit and cut Sherpa's head and L0 50m in tent and 
      neck hurt.
    2nd 7 April 11:00 hit 2nd BC, which 115m below and 1500m distant from 1st BC.

  3rd BC made at 3700m, C1 and C2 not hit thus stayed same. No place for C4. Ridge very steep and very sharp and rock loose. 1 member slipped but not injured.

  Only 3 days fine weather, maximum altitude 6000m 26 April. 400m in almost 2 weeks reached by Yokota & Suzuki (no kin).

  Many small avalanches.

  C4 to be placed 6400m but C3 only 5600m and no place for C4. 
  800m ice face above 6400m.
  This route strong party maybe can climb, put C4 at 6000-6400m.

  Suzuki looked at North Face easy slope but much snow which could avalanche; 1 week from village, only looking; food finished.

  27 April all coming down; all in BC. 
  30 April-1 May all leave BC to village and thence all go look North Face.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 5 May 74

  Abandoned  27 April; reached 6000m and couldn't go higher.
  C3 5600m was highest camp.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 15 April 74

  BC badly hit by avalanche, strong wind and heavy snow fall April 4 9 pm; most equipment and tents swept away including 8 people in tents but only 1 Sherpa injured avalanche came from 3000m, so shifted BC to 3700m to rescue climb from 11 April after moving BC.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 4 April 74

  LO reports bad weather with continuous snow 23-27 March; 26 inches of snow at bsse camp and above.


  MFA - 22 May 74

  Annapurna South base camp at 4200m 14 March.
  Team will spend about 2 weeks at BC for acclimatization.
  Weather so far clear and fine.


  T. Suzuki - 20 Feb 74

  Others 26 Feb arrive KTM 
  4 March leave for Pokhara by bus
  Leave Pokhara 8 March; 7 days caravan to BC at 4200m in Kyumrung Khola
  Route Kyumrumg Glacier to SW Ridge.
  Summit 20 April
  4 high camps, C4 6600m
  SW Ridge new route
  Sirdar and 4 Sherpas and 1 cook

  Annapurna South expeditions' routes:
    1964     - North Face
    1970     - South Face
    1971 Spr - East Ridge
    1971 Aut - East Ridge
    1972     - East Ridge
    1973     - East Ridge

  "I think 30% success, 70% no success." Rock face 400m and expedition small. French route South Face more difficult than SW Ridge, but Japanese 1964 North Face less difficult.


expid: GANG74101
peakid: GANG
year: 1974
route1: E Ridge from S
nation: Japan
leaders: Toshio Noshi
sponsor: Osaka Gangapurna Expedition
ascent1: 4th
approach: Pokhara->Modi Khola
bcdate: 1974-03-30
smtdate: 1974-05-13
smttime: 1715
termdate: 1974-05-17
campsites: BC(30/03,4100m),C1(06/04,4990m),C2(18/04,5740m),C3(25/04,6330m),C4.Biv(13/04,6850m),Smt(13/04)
routememo:
  Dr Sumiyoshi & Noshi - 19 May 78

  No falls, no accidents; all members good health.

  3 Japanese members Toshio Noshi, Osamu Nonaka and Dr Kaoru Sumiyoshi and LO sick; arrive today by helicopter.

  Today caravan to Hinko, reach Pokhara 23 May and 24 KTM.

  Only members made route, Sherpas did not
  Attack team left from C3 

  13 May 6 am left C3; left one tent at C4 site, reached top 5:15 pm and returned to C4 (biv) at 10 pm very tired but strong. Returned to C3 next day. Support [Okano and Shibano] in C3, no oxygen in C3 and no oxygen to summit.

  One attack on summit only as monsoon coming. 1st try Ok and last chance:
  Sherpas no move and members very tired.

  Between C3 and C4 500m icefall very difficult (Germans found very easy 1st time).

  Always same route as German route.

  Between C1 and C2 many seracs and Sherpas very afraid; later than scheduled because of Sherpas. 


  MP Khanal, MFA - ? May 74

  Takeshi Kikusawa and Shinsuke Fujiwara summited 17 May 5:15 pm and returned to C4 at 11 pm 6850m which these two had established same day. Left C3 6 am same day.

  Expedition leaves BC 17 May.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 5 May 74

  C3 6330m, 25 April by 3 members; had minor accident 19 April fall of 30 meters by 1 member but very minor injuries.


  Prabul Rana, MFA - 8 April 74

  BC 30 March, 13:30 hrs, 4100m
  Climbed up to sites after 31 March, 4800m - C1
                                      5500m - C2


  Arai - 2 March 74

  KTM -> Pokhara by truck
  BC in upper Modi Khola
  Route German East Ridge from S

  1971 Shinzu - West Ridge from S
  1971 Spr ?

  1 sirdar (Dawa Tenzing), 4 Sherpas


expid: PK2974101
peakid: PK29
year: 1974
route1: SW Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Fumio Tanaka
sponsor: Yokohama Mountaineering Association Peak 29 West Face Exped
countries: USA
bcdate: 1974-03-03
smtdate: 1974-04-17
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to route difficulty and dangerous conditions
campsites: BC(03/03,3700m),C1(06/03,4300m),C2(15/03,4600m),C3(23/03,5050m),C4(27/03,5400m),xxx(17/04,5800m)
routememo:
  Dainobu & Shirai - 15 May 74

  Isao Kishimoto, Toshiharu Shirai and Shigeo Dainobu arrive today; others came 20-22nd they still coming with baggage. All Ok.

  Maximum altitude 5800m 17 April 1st time. Weather not so bad, not so good.

  W Wall very difficult and very dangerous by falling stones which came very near expedition. C4 not yet on wall; C5 would have been on wall at about 5400m but could not find safe place.

  All members reached 5800m


  Hamal, MFA - 11 May 74 (11:55 am)

  After pitched C4, reached 5800m and since no place for them to pitch more camps and since it dangerous, they have decided abandon expedition and on 13 May whole group will be leaving BC to return to KTM.


  Y Furukawa (interp by Moore) - 8 Feb 74

  Try from west side. One lady and 1 US and 17 Japanese member = 19 total.

  This 1st attempt via West Face. Other expeditions:
    1963 and 1969 on east side
    1961 recce north
    1970 East Ridge (does believe 1970 expedition reached summit)


  Richard Moore, NYC

  Leave KTM 16th to Pokhara by air. Base 1 March. Climbing 70 days; longest time over schedule for 7000m peak because face very long and difficult. Base to be dismantled 20 May. Longer than Everest and Annapurna South Face - 2500m altitude.

  6 camps above base camp
  1 sirdar and 9 Sherpas


  Hiroshi Tsuchiya - 22 Jan 74

  Peak 29 West Wall Expedition 1974

  Same caravan route as Austrian Manaslu, but base camp lower near small river and forest at 3700m.

  1960 Japanese expedition Osaka U tried West Face of Peak 29 but no success. Different caravan route - reached 7835m.

  SW Wall very difficult not dangerous - many hanging glaciers. Maybe not climb via Wall but via west Ridge.

  16 members arrive 7 Feb; other 2 already here since last Sept.


expid: JANU74101
peakid: JANU
year: 1974
route1: S Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Mikio Kawase
sponsor: Seijo University Jannu Expedition 1974
ascent1: 3rd
approach: Dharan->Ghunsa
bcdate: 1974-03-19
smtdate: 1974-05-18
smttime: 1705
termdate: 1974-05-24
campsites:
  BC(19/03),C1(24/03,4800m),C2(28/03,5000m),C3(06/04,6000m),C4(20/04,6400m),C5(05/05,6900m),C6(15/05,7150m),Smt(18/05)

routememo:
  23 April sirdar injured and evacuated to KTM. 2nd Sirdar injured 8 May. 

  Naganuma ill, evacuated to KTM 21 May (Naganuma walked but wanted sit). Sick suddenly at C4 1 May and stayed 3 days there and then C3 2 days and then down. Helicopter brought him from BC today.

  Ichikawa and Obara summited 5:05 pm 18 May and C6 10:50 pm; started 5 am. Ichikawa slight frostbite, now in BC with all members yesterday.

  2nd attack planned, but bad weather so abandoned. Leave BC 24 May and reach KTM 7 June via Biratnagar.

  Same route as French. No Japanese accidents, not yet.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 20 May 74

  18 May summit, 5:05 pm:
    1) Ichikawa 
    2) Soji Obara
  Left C6 at 5 am, 7150m and returned to C6 at 10:45 pm.

  Takeshi Naganuma is seriously ill from 10 May, undergoing treatment at BC and helicopter requested.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 13 May 74

  C5 on 5 May 6900m; scheduled C6 by 9 May and attempts before 13 May if weather good.

  2 members [Miyazaki and Azuma] and 2 Sherpas [Ang Phurba and Tenzing] swept 150 feet by avalanche on 8 May 11 pm from C5. 2nd sirdar Tenzing badly injured while others minor.

  Now sudden bad weather and continous snowfall progress as per earlier plan impossible.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 26 April 74

  Accident: Sirdar Karma fell into 25m deep crevasse 23 April, 6:30 am while going from C3 to C4. Seriouly injured, helicopter requested; to leave 12 noon to BC at Dudh Pokhari, 2 miles from Ghunsa village.


  Kawase, Hashimura & Obara - 27 Feb 74

  Tomorrow all leave by bus and truck to Dharan. 2-3 days to Dharan. Caravan starts 3 or 4 March and takes about 16 days to 20th base camp. 

  If crevasse don't prevent, will use 1962 French route. Summit day 5 May (in Japan is holiday for boys). Hope put all members on summit in 3 parties (perhaps not Dr. although climber but maybe stays in C3).


  Mikio Kawase, Tokyo - 22 Feb 74

  Seijo Univ Jannu Expedition 1974

  7 today - total 9. 
  Leave KTM after 7 days to Biratnagar by truck, 1-1/2 days 
  Caravan starts 3 March, 2 weeks to BC at 4500m on Yamatari Glacier.

  20 March start climbing. 6 high camps, C6 at 7300m.

  Route: maybe both French expedition route via Yamatari Glacier and South Ridge.
  Summit about 5 May, hope all members summit.
  14 Sherpas and 6 local porters.

  C3 to C4 and C6 to top difficult because very steep C3-C4 and ice board and overhang C6 -> summit.


expid: KJRS74101
peakid: KJRS
year: 1974
route1: S Face-E Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Eiji Kamei
sponsor: Yamagata University Himalayan Expedition 1974
ascent1: 2nd,3rd
approach: Jagdula Khola
bcdate: 1974-04-08
smtdate: 1974-04-27
smttime: 1240
termdate: 1974-05-02
campsites: BC(08/04,4160m),C1(12/04,4400m),C2(17/04,5300m),C3(24/04,5800m),C4(26/04,6400m),Smt(27-28/04)
routememo:
  Kamei & Co. - 25 May 74

  Kanjiroba Main Peak from South Face to East Ridge 

  27 April names ok
  28 April names ok

  27 April summiters climbed from C4 at 6:00 am and return to C3 after 5:00 pm. Ice and snow ridge not so strong or steep, fixed rope, cloudy.

  28 April also from C4 about 6 am and reached summit 10 am on previous party's fixed ropes and return to C3 at 4 pm - little fine.

  Most days cloudy afternoon, evening snowfall.

  One member not reached summit: Dr not so strong climber.
  No accidents, no frostbite.
  All arrive yesterday - maybe one week in Nepal.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 7 May 74

  Summit: 2 members: Morishige Nakano, Akira Shiraishi, Annu Sherpa on 28 April, 12:40 pm. Returned to 3rd camp same day.

  2nd summit team reached summit 29 April, 10 am and returned to C3.

  4th and final camp, 6400m, 26 April. Leave Base 2 May.


  Kamei - 9 March 74

  6 arrived today; total 7
  Jagdula Khola
  BC at 4000m same place as Tyson's
  4 camps above base; C4 6000m
  Leave KTM 19 to to Jumla by air

  South Face route; new route maybe
    1973
    1970 - south side (not face)

  2 Sherpas


expid: LAMJ74101
peakid: LAMJ
year: 1974
route1: ESE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Michael Burgess
sponsor: Hong Kong Mountaineering Expedition to Lamjung Himal
ascent1: 1st-3rd
countries: Nepal
bcdate: 1974-04-06
smtdate: 1974-04-25
termdate: 1974-05-08
campsites: BC(06/04,4328m),C1(13/04,5395m),C2(22/04,6030m),C3(24/04,6420m),Smt(25,27/04,03/05)
routememo:
  Barker - 14 May 74

  Burgess and Barker arrived last night from C3; Burgess climbed alone. Neame went with Burgess to C3, but not feeling well and dropped back at 400 ft from summit and Burgess onto top alone.

  Much more technical difficult harder than expected. Looked from air a walk once got to 19,000 ft but was far from it. Knife-ridge very sharp above col 17,800 ft and 2 vertical ice walls at about 19,800 ft and 21,000 ft; last 400 ft to summit snow in very poor condition and 5% slope up to almost vertical slope just before summit.

  Without Sherpas, so much more humping than otherwise.

  Rest arrive KTM 15 May by road and all leave for HKG on 17 May except Chamberlain who probably goes on RAF.

  Chamberlain only 20 years old. 1st man on top. 1st ascent of summit of that height.


  MP Khanal

  C3 established on 11th Basek (24th April) 21,300 ft.
  Lamjung expedition Basek 12 & 14 (May 25th, 27th) climbed from C3:
    12th (25 Apr) - Chamberlain, Neame
    14th (27 Apr) - Isherwood, Scott
  Union Jack and Nepal flag hoisted on summit.


  Maj. Barker - 15 March 74

  Recce flight to see whether to go in North or South. Different logistic problems: N approach march vs 4 days. More important easiest climbing route because seen photos of N Side; for ropes thought might be easier but "when we got up there, northern side looked fairly formidable" - SE Ridge looked easiest.

  Shorter approach but last 2 days beyond villages and at 16,000 ft and having to drop down again. After flight around mountain, Burgess, Isherwood and Ang Phurba Sherpa dropped off at PKR with LO and they set off on ground.

  Recce for BC side. No Sherpas - economy "and we feel we can do it without." We're all prepared to hump; we feel we've allowed owerselves time enough and we have enough people not a high mountain by Nepal sides.

  Our objective is to climb the mountain. A member to get to top and everyone else is resigned to humping; no one in rescue.

  Also Fonfe dropped at Pokhara and he starting sort baggage which went to Pokhara by truck. Barker waits KTM for other 3 members to join. So now 9 total arrived Sunday AM. All leave Monday or Tuesday. All in army except Isherwood and know each other well. Join Fonfe in Pokhara and all leave Friday or Saturday from Pokhara. Recce will come back to Pokhara probably. Snow appears quite low now.


  Barker & Burgress - 10 March 74

  8 total members: 2 Neplaese and 6 British including 1 civilian.
  Captain Michael Burgess, leader 
  Major Jeff Barker, organizer
  (Dick Isherwood's air)

  Burgess and Isherwood leave 13th for recce. Main party leave KTM as soon as possible with baggage to Pokhara by road.

  Route via North South - depends on approach march.
  (No Sherpas)

  Fonfe is in Pokhara; arrive Kathmandu 11th. Others arrived 16th or 17th.


  MP Khanal - 5 April 74

  Sange Tamang returned to Kathmandu 3rd April; dropped out of expedition because of diarrhea.

  Sapper Derrick Chamberlain
  Single, 22 yrs, Mt. Blanc, last rock climbing in UK.
  Temperorily in Hong Kong
  Engineer, parachute squadron

  2nd Lt. John Scott, just comissioned from Sandhurst.
  25, single
  Just joined parachute regiment based Aldershot.
  Very experienced strong climber, 3 or 4 alpine seasons.


  Report on Lamjung Expedition by Jeff Barker

  Burgess and Isherwood did recce of approach to base camp 15 to 20 March. Recce done in fine weather with snow only on last day near mountain. Recce indicated on approach march of only 4 days. It was planned that after 3 days when the expedition should be at pre-base camp. The majority of our porters would be paid off and we would equip the remaining twenty to cope with the snow for the fourth day. These porters would ferry the balance of stores over the following two or three days. As it turned out we ran into a heavy hailstorm which later turned to snow on the second day out from Pokhara. Day 1 were already humping stones carrying sometimes as much as 70-80 lb a man. During this period Sange Tamang, developed amoebic dysentary which eventually forced him to return to Pokhara and thence to Hong Kong.

  Ferrying of stores continued until 10 April when the last few loyal porters packed in too. Conditions had been particularly bad with snow most days and heavy blizzards on 8 and 9 April. Over those lost few days the expedition had been well spread out with some ferrying stones to pre-base, some ferrying from prebase to base and two, Isherwood and Neame, pioneering the route carrying essential climbing gear from base camp up to advanced base camp situated on top of a glacier at about 15,500 ft. Beyond the col the route to the summit lies along the South East ridge. The ridge is narrow and sharp. On 15 April Isherwood and Neame reached a height of about 19,700 ft some 2000 above the col, but were forced to return to Camp 1 for more equipment to tackle an ice wall and having found no suitable site for a second camp. Fixed ropes were eventually placed and C2 established on 22 April by Neame and Chamberlain. These two continued in the lead establishing C3 on 24 April at 21,100 ft and reaching the summit the next day.

  Isherwood and Scott reached Camp 3 on 26 April and the summit on 27 April. There is likely to be one more attempt on the summit before the climbers return to base. This attempt would be made by Burgess the expedition leader and one other members as yet unnamed.

  The weather since our arrival at base camp has been good with virtually no snow. Mornings have been freezing, with crisp snow, moonlight and stars followed by clear blue sky and a hot sun. By about 11 o'clock Nepali time (we have set our watches on 2 hours to take advantage of the good conditions in the early morning) the sun has turned the snow into a  soft much which ahs made walking without snow shoes almost impossible. In addition by that time the mist has crept up the valley and most of the mountain, certainly all below about 19,000 ft is shrouded with visibility down to about 20 yards.


expid: DHA474101
peakid: DHA4
year: 1974
route1: N side
nation: UK
leaders: Derek Le Roy Bird
sponsor: RAF Dhaulagiri Expedition 1974
approach: Barbung Khola
smtdate: 1974-04-14
termdate: 1974-04-23
campsites: BC(3960m),C1(4875m),xxx(14/04,5200m)
accidents: 3 Sherpas killed by avalanche
routememo:
  Bird and Le Marie arrive Pokhara 1 May
  Rest of expedition about 7-8 days behind

  All fit

  2 successful expeditions on this route - D II
                                           D III

  Has been used by at least 4 expeditions 

  DII  - 2
  DIII - 1
  DIV  - 1

  Probably much also earlier Japaneses expedition on recce.

  John Smith and Pat Gunson had moved through about an hour earlier that morning.

  Bill March ahead; Hodgson and Ian Jones behind were a area of avalanche that hit 4 Sherpas; rear some way back by Pete McGowan. British not touched at altitude by great luck.

  200 ft of ice and snow - was a huge fall of ice - into gully that covered snow in couloir down with it; block 10 ft big hit couloir, broke to bits and swept it clear of snow.

  "If the rock had not been there ahead of him and the blocks hadn't going over him he would have been swept way" says Bird.

  C1 first occupied 10 April by McGowan.


  Bill March

  4 Sherpas.
  At 16,0000 ft Armstrong and Wallis had reached site on 9th.
  C2 would have been at about 17,200 ft over ridge which was about 18,200 ft.
  Sherpas bodies cremated near base camp at Mukut. 


  Wireless from Bird - rec'd 19 April 74

  RAF expedition to D-IV forced to abandon attempt on D-IV due to loss of 2/3 Sherpas strength in avalanche involving 4 Sherpas and 6 members. Expedition is expected leave BC approx 23 April and arrive Pokhara approx 7 May.


  Bird, via helicopter on 16 April 74

  Icefall above C1 caused instant death of 2 Sherpas Dawa Tensing and Kami Sarki, on 14th, 9:05 am. 3rd Sherpa, Ang Chering, died from injuries on 15th, 2:15 am. 4th Sherpa, Ang Nima, evacuated by helicopter [at Shanta Bhavan in fair condition]. All remaining members fit and well, future of expedition under consideration, but abandonment probable.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 15 April 74

  Yesterday 9 am, big avalanche near BC Mukut. 3 Sherpas died and 1 seriously injured. Helicopter asked for rescue.


  Dhaulagiri IV

  Postcard from Peter Addis dated 26 March 74 (reached KTM 8 April 74)

  "We are now at a place called Dhorpatan after walking for 9 days, and have got stuck here as we have run out of porters and we need 27 more to carry on. So main party have gone on and I have stayed with 2 Sherpas and I shop while head man of village gets more porters.


  JOM Roberts - 8 April 74

  Dhaulagiri IV left Pokhara on 15th March, so 9 days to Dhorpatan gets them there on 23rd.

  Says main party left Dhorpatan on 25th, taking 12 days more to base camp gets them to BC, on 5th or 6th April.


  Dicky Bird - 11 March 74

  15 climbers
  3 air
  1 Navy
  2 Army
  9 RAF

  From N Face or NW Buttress 
  7 Sherpas including sirdar Ang Phu
  22 days trek ex-Pokhara to BC
  Leave KTM starting today: - lost 15-16th

  Leave Pokhara 15th, arrive BC about 7 April.
  4 high camps; base 13,000 ft at Lake; summit mid-May.


  JOMR - 14 Feb 74

  Bird and rest arrive 11th March - to Dhorpatan.
  Leave 7th March ex-Pokhara walking to Dhorpatan and next Bird and party there; all walk to BC.

  7-8 Sherpas - very strong

  Total 18 members including
  1 botanist
  2 zoologist
  1 doctor not concerned with expedition
  14 remainder - RAF Dr. who stays basic camp
  Not all RAF - some Army (for Everest)

  12/7

  Wing Commander D Bird
  Tactics Wing
  The Royal School of Artillery
  Larkhill, Salisbury, Wiltshure

  1973 RAFMA-Cambridge Univ. expedition: 10 RAF climbers, 4 Cambridge men for glaciology west of Everest. Bird to be overall leader; JOM Roberts to join.


  Letter from Dicky Bird

  Arrived Mukut 6 April after 23 days from Pokhara via the lower route over the single Jangla from the same Khola. Marched 21 days covering some 8 to 10 miles a day. All now have a real appreciation of the climate and topography of Western Nepal! Surprised at the heat. West of Dhorpatan rain in the same khola some 17 times by "wading." The Jangla did not have much now on the southern slopes but quite a lot on the other side. We provided the porters with boats and goggles (card board slits).

  But party of 3 have spent 1 week Lumsum 1 week Dhorpatan and intend 1 week at Tarakot. Dunachi from Wednesday 10 April then up to Mukut.

  Today we have had 4 men opening the route over the Chorten ridge and should have advance, have C2 and C1 (this side of ridge) occupied in the next 7 or 8 days. I have written to to Jimmy. We have been able to have radio.


expid: EVER74101
peakid: EVER
year: 1974
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Juan Ignacio Lorente Zugaza
sponsor: Tximist Expedition to Everest 1974
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1974-03-25
smtdate: 1974-05-12
termnote: Abandoned at 8530m due to high winds
campsites:
  BC(25/03,5380m),C1(03/04,6100m),C2(06/04,6440m),C3(13/04,6950,7000m),C4(22/04,7450m),C5(04/05,7600m),C6(12/05,8530m),xxx(12/05,8530m)

routememo:
  Lorente - 4 June 74

  Bad weather defeated them. 1st time just wind; 2nd and 3rd bad weather: snow and wind circles.

  Ok at South Col, finished and no time to carry up more - 11 only left below C6 when there were more - all C6 provisions still there.

  Remaining 3 members come tomorrow.


  Felipe Uriarte - 31 May 74

  2 frostbitten right fingers, will perhaps lose a little of one. Think monsoon began in Everest area 24-25 May. Japanese meterologist who visited BC and Sherpas said coming early this year, but AIR said nothing (but AIR often wrong).

  For 13th May AIR said little but was 80 km/hr. 

  2 clear forecast days 14th and 26th.
    14th - very bad weather with strong wind and snow
    26th - day they gave up
  After 25th could do nothing above C2.

  22nd-23rd weather was good. 21st Abalde and Gallardo in C5, but Abalde not well and Sherpa not willing to go to summit. Abalde went down again on 22nd and Gallardo alone in C5.

  23rd - Villar and Kirch came to C5
  24th - weather not good wind and cloud
  25th - worse
  26th - 3 Spanish went down

  12th - Rosen and Uriarte left C5 11:15 and searched C6 site 4 pm in very good condition; via left couloir, not Hillary Couloir (Italian and Japanese route). With 7 Sherpas (2 of whom without oxygen, all Sherpas down to C5)
  - by 6 pm had tent up; 8:30 went to sleep on sleeping oxygen
  - 11:00 pm woke up with fingers swollen and very painful; while erecting tent gloves wet, but didn't realize; slept again until 3:00 am.

  13th 3:00 am got ready for summit ,but wind very strong. 5:30 both went out of tent, but wind so strong decided to wait. 11 am again went out and decided to go up but still same wind and saw clouds below and prepared to go down shortly after left C4, snow began. Went to C5; took long time without oxygen.

  Slept without sleeping bag or mattress.
  C5 and had to share one oxygen mask
  3 Sherpas reached C5 with loads and descended 

  14th went to C4, no one in C5
  15th Sherpas helped them down to C2, to open route since 1 meter snow had fallen on Lhotse face.

  Without summit doesn't please him to have reached that height of 8500m; South Summit very very near.

  Everest not technically difficult but very complex in weather, logistics, altitude effect coming all right at same time

  Wants to come again to Everest because it is a beautiful mountain; is a big problem, always very interesting mountain: every year a new problem; for one climber is always a beautiful, no problem. 

  13 Sherpas went to C6 and were very good but none wanted to go to summit: thought then condition not good? or afraid? don't know.

  LO Chotare on walkie-talkie on 2nd day send Ok for Sherpas to go to summit and Ang Dorje agreed but the day of good weather lost; Ang Dorje too late.


  14 Jestha - 27 May (message's date)


  Hamal, MFA - 28 May 74

  Climb abandoned. Planned send 2 groups to top 11 Jestha. However group stayed 9-13 Jestha at C5 and because of bad weather 14th one returning from C5 and within 4 days expected in BC.

  On 22 Jestha expedition reach KTM.


  Wolfgang Nairz - 27 May 74

  Saturday (25th) Everest weather bad (he flew to Tumlingtar). Sunday also bad. Today fine as friends report from mtn flight.


  Glen Silveste - 24 May 74

  "Yesterday the weather was sunny and clear all day. Look like being so again today."

  Hillary expected back in Khunde on 24th.


  25 May 74 - AIR Weather forecast

  Occasional showers and thundershowers
  9.5 km above sea level: winds WSW 100 Km/hr temperature, -30 degrees C
  (7,6 Km ASL, 40 Km/hrs - 21 degrees)
  Subsequent 24 hours, little change


  Egusquitsa - 24 May 74

  Today's mountain flight very smooth and no clouds over mountains


  Ex-Basecamp, rec'd 23 May 74

  Hillary at BC 23 May with film team. 
  Summit 24/25 May definitely Abalde and Gallardo in 21 in C4

  AIR predicted high winds 
   60 Km/hr 4000m
  140 Km/hr 9000m in these days


  Alfonso from Calle Telegrams - 22 May 74

  Plan on 19 May

  20 May C2->C4: Abalde and Gallardo
  21 May C4->C5: Villar and Kirch, one day behind
  22 May C5->C6
  23 May C6


  Diez & Cortazar - 20 May 74

  Left BC to arrange expedition affairs


  MP Khanal, MFA - 19 May 74

  After establish C6 at 8500m, members could not move forward because of bad weather and one of 2 members got frostbite in his 2 toes. They came down to BC 16 May and replaced by others.


  Rosen - 12 May

  Uriarte: 2 fingers frostbitten

  13 May - C6  
  16 May - BC

  21 or 22
  2nd assault planned
  C5 has equipment and axe

  In C2 6 members, all strong

  Gallardo and Abalde; probably 2nd assault team


  Domingo - 28 Feb 74

  Sun 24th Feb
  26th - 3 flights
  27th - 4 flights
  28th - 4 flights
  1st March - 2 flights
  2-3 March - at least 6 or 7 flights
  By 3rd March, all cargo and all members in Khumbu

  By now 14 tons and 8 members in Lukla; now 50-50 KTM/LUK
  Are one week late over first plans but now concerned.

  Last truck load of equipment expected KTM tonight or tomorrow am.


  Domingo - 26 Feb 74

  Today to Lukla -> 4 members and 3000 Kg
  Tomorrow and 3 more members in 4 or 5 flights
  3 days more flights
  Total flights about 20 by Twin Otter. 


  Lorente (via Domingo) - 14 Feb 74

  Chotare = LO

  Equipment on about 20th in KTM and fly to Lukla and all members will fly to Lukla. Base camp established 20 to end March with best acclimatization perhaps opening icefall after 20 March.


  Domingo - 7 Feb 74

  Rest arrive 15 or 16
  Charters ex-Copenhagen 
  45 Sherpas (porters) total

  All equipment by air to Lukla and all members also to Lukla. 20th Feb camp at Thyangboche with 7-10 days acclimatization climbing. Base camp about 10-15 March with everything there 20 March.

  South Col route with oxygen. 
  17 tons equipment
  16 members 
  10 Sherpas


  Letter from BC - 28th March

  Very urgent emergency medical casualty evacuation. Spanish subject Luis Domingo, age 28, lying critically ill expedition base camp Khumbu Glacier suffering acute high altitude pulmonary edema, patient on oxygen. Request royal flight helicopter evacuation soon as possible today 28 March landing ground reach by 1100 hours. Weather at 0900 windless sunny cloudless will keep radio open and pass weather. Report on request parties will be accompanied on flight by expedition.


