# exped

expid: TSIS63301
peakid: TSIS
year: 1963
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kenji Ishihara
sponsor: Tokyo-Osaka University Joint Himalayan Expedition
ascent1: 2nd
campsites: Smt(Nov)
primid: SPH163301
othersmts:
  Climbed Sharphu (SPH1-633-01) and Syamdo Kangri (1st); attempted Drohmo (DROM-633-01), Merra (MERR-633-01) and Talung (TLNG-633-01); climbed 2 Tibetan peaks in Ombak Himal (OMBK-633-01)

routememo:
  Note: it is not clear whether the Japanese 1963 spring and autumn expeditions climbed the same peak known as Tsisima.


expid: CHOP58301
peakid: CHOP
year: 1958
route1: N Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Alfred Gregory
countries: Italy
termnote: Abandoned at 600m due to bad weather
campsites: xxx(6600m)
primid: AMAD58301
othersmts:
  Climbed Island Peak (IMJA-583-01); attempted Ama Dablam (AMAD-583-01); recon Lhotse Shar (LSHR-583-01)

routememo:
  Translated by Google from web site:

    www.gianniroghi.it/Testi/l'europeo/5902%20.htm 

  The second valley was explored by the expedition that dell'Imja Khola, the river that flows from the huge glacier. It extends south to reach the foot of Everest and Lhotse. The convoy went up to the full, bypassing pinnacles of ice about eighty feet high. RNAi has been so far no one was on its upper basin, where glaciers flow into other minor stemming from the group of Lhotse which consists of three peaks joined by a long crust. Now the six men were divided: Pirovano and Cunningham, with some Sherpa, went up against a "seven thousand" of great name, Chopulu: Gregory, Ghiglione, Cook and Levene, with other carriers, they headed instead to the conquest of Island Peak. Alfred Gregory was busy shooting a film, and could not offer help to the consortium of Pirovano. A pity, because it would be enough support to allow a minimum of one of the first conquest of the highest peaks across the Himalayas. 

  Pirovano and Cunningham, with three Sherpas of Commons, through hard work the complicated Lhotse Shar Glacier. The weather turned for the worse on the very day on which attacked the ice wall that goes up the hill north of Chopulu. Heavy snowfall and the immense icy chute a mile high around became prohibitive. Pirovano forced the situation ("I have done things far beyond prudence," he says) and managed on a day to reach the hill, at 6300 meters. The next morning it snowed again. Always in the lead, Pirovano off again. The young Cunningham followed him willingly, with courage, but was no match to give him the change. The Italian-led steps carved into the ice, between six and seven thousand feet, for two days, almost without interruption. They went along the ridge, steep and treacherous for large frames hanging in the void. Some overcame the above, others below, to the wire on the brink of two thousand meters above the Barun glacier. In the early afternoon, the storm broke, but still advanced Pirovano and the summit of Chopulu at 7020 meters, was drawing closer. They arrived in 6900 meters, maybe more. The last part was entirely visible and did not present difficulties, but now the monsoon increased in strength every minute. Glasses covered with snow, his face caked with ice, Pirovano turned and said to his companion: "At the top we get there. But we will not return." Cunningham answered only: "Let's go." The descent was dramatic, however, without incident. The storm continued for days, threatened to tear the tent that the two men with nails anchored to the rock in different camps, and eventually covered the mountain with a mantle of fresh snow so often to take away all hope for another attempt. "If we had a field equipped higher," said Pirovano, "we could very well touch the top and down time. In only two is madness groped a "seven thousand" Himalaya ".
   
  The two groups found themselves on the glacier of the postage dell'Imja. 

  Gregory and Ghiglione, in six hours of climbing, had taken over the white top of Island Peak. What remains now is to tackle the third valley, the further south, Hongu Mera. Pirovano and Cunningham, from the Chopulu, had looked long: a peak above it soared the Ama Dablam, the vertiginous pyramid of ice and granite, "Matterhorn of the Himalayas", which would be their next opponent.


expid: AMAD10402
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Gyu-Tae
sponsor: 2010 Pnu Alpine Club Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Phakding->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2010-12-23
smtdate: 2011-01-04
smttime: 1630
termdate: 2011-01-08
campsites: BC(23/12,4600m),C1(26/12,5800m),C2(02/01/11,6100m),C3(03/11,6400m),Smt(04/11)
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal
routememo:
  Heo, Kim Ji-Soung, Kim Seok-Soo, Lee, Chinjung, Sanu and Tashi started their summit push at 5:30 am on 4 Jan from C3. Four Korean climbers went up to about 100m and returned C3 as Sherpas were fixing the line. Four climbers started again from C3 at 7:30 am. The team reached tot he top at 4:30 pm. It was very windy and very cold but clear sky. The team spent 20 minutes on the summit and descended to C3 where the team reached at 8:40 pm. Spent the night at C3. Next day the team went down to BC. 

  Baek went up to C1 3 times first was on 26 Dec and last time on 5 Jan; he suffered from stomach disorder. 

  Jang slept at C1 on 26 Dec; he too suffered from stomach disorder and rest of the time stayed at BC. 

  Leader Kim Gyu-Tae spent the night at C1 on 26 Dec rest of the time; he stayed at BC doing logistics for the climbers. 

  Kim Kang-Tae slept at C1 on 27 Dec; he went up to C2, then to BC. He left BC on 3 Jan due to his job back home. 

  Kim-Min Sung slept a C1 on 26 Dec; he too suffered from stomach disorder.

  Kim Ji-Soung said that there was a large crevasse before the summit about 10 meters below the summit, about 30 meters in length and about 3 meters wide.

  Fixed rope: 1400m from C1 to summit.

  Sherpas:
    Chinjung Bhote, 8/2/92 (25/10/2048), Hatiya-1, Makalu, no 8000ers
    Sanu Sherpa, 30/4/1975, Walung, Makalu-9, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2, Lhotse X1
    Tashi Sherpa, 4/12/77, Cheremy, Bung-9, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X1


expid: AMAD10331
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Reynold Jackson
sponsor: Himalayan Ascent Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Deboche
bcdate: 2010-10-18
smtdate: 2010-11-02
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2010-11-04
campsites: BC(18/10,4600m),C1(22/10,5100m),C2(23/10,6100m),Smt(02/11)
agency: Himalayan Ascent
routememo:
  Jackson and Rickert started their summit bid from C2 at 3:30 am of 2 Nov. They reached summit at 2 pm. They stayed on summit for 5 minutes then descended to C2 where they arrived at 7 pm. Next day both went down to BC. The summit day weather was clear sky, cold and windy. The top on that day, among them first one to top was Ang Kazi Sherpa, Marty Schmidt, Chhiring Sherpa, two Americans.

  Fixed rope: between C2 summit.


expid: AMAD10305
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Georgia
leaders: Bidzina Gujabidze
sponsor: Georgian Ama Dablam 2010
bcdate: 2010-09-21
smtdate: 2010-09-26
termdate: 2010-09-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to avalanching
campsites: BC(21/09),C1(24/09,5800m),C2(26/09,6000m),xxx(26/09,6000m)
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
routememo:
  The group reached only C2, then abandoned the climb as there were several avalanches from the top of the mountain to C3. They counted a total of 5 avalanches in 3 days.

  They mentioned that there was a lot of garbage in C1.


expid: AMAD10306
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Thomas Fankhauser
sponsor: Austrian Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Phakding->Namche->Gokyo->Tangnag->Island Peak->Dingboche->Tengboche
bcdate: 2010-11-03
smtdate: 2010-11-07
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2010-11-09
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (all seven members and two Sherpas)
campsites: BC(03/11,4600m),C1(04/11,5800m),C2(06/11,6100m),Smt(07/11)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Derfeser, Fankhauser, Josef Hausberger, Kuerschner, Stefan Wierer, Pasang Bhote and Puchunga Bhote started for summit from C2 at 4 am on 7 Nov. Fankhauser reached summit at 11:30 am and last member of the expedition Derfeser reached summit at 11:40 am. They stayed on summit for 30 minutes. The summit members descended to C2 at 3:45 pm. The team continued to descend to C1 where the team arrived at 7 pm, spent the night there. Next day the team descended to BC.

  Pasang Bhote, 19/05/1986, Chepuwa-1, Everest X4, Cho X3

  Puchhanga Bhote, 2/4/1980, Chepuwa-3, Guthigumba
    summited: Ever in 2009, Bill Burke, Asian Trekking
              Pumori 1998, Austria, Herbert, Apple Pie Trekking
              Pumori 2005, Korea, Hong, Windhorse Trekking
              Ama Dablam, 2008, Austria, Karyang Kurung Trekking
              Tukuche 2007, Austria, Karyang Kurung Treks


expid: AMAD10307
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Adrian Ballinger
sponsor: Alpenglow Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Germany, Sweden, USA
bcdate: 2010-10-25
smtdate: 2010-11-06
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2010-11-08
campsites: BC(25/10,4600m),C1(28/10,5800m),C2.7(05/11,6250m),Smt(06/11)
accidents: Kjellbeerg's illness & Warner's illness
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  C2.7 just below the ledge.

  The expedition placed their third high camp below what used to be the normal site for C3 on a ledge at about 6400m and is commonly called as Camp 2.7. Ballinger thinks the site for camp is 2.7 is a good place to camp: it is protected from the wind and gets good sunlight.

  He doesn't consider the illnesses of Kjellberg and Warren as serious, but as "debilitating."

  Non-summiting members:

  Ewen climbed to the Yellow Tower at about 6000m on 29 October and then he was not skilled enough to continue. He left on 2 November.

  Friedrich also left on 2 November after reaching 6000m on 29 October. He was frightened and unhappy.

  Kjellberg became sick in BC perhaps due to a virus and never got well. He went up to C1 on 28 October and stayed in BC until the climb was over.

  Warren he also became sick, probably from a viral infection, and got no higher than 6000m on 4 November.

  Fixed rope: 500m between C2 and C3 

  Sherpas:
    Dorje Sonam Gyalzen, 24/5/81, Phortse, Everest X13, Cho Oyu and Manaslu X1 each
    Phura Namgya, 13/8/87 (28/4/2044), Khumjung, no 8000ers
    Rita Dorje, 24/1/77, Phortse, Everest X7
    Tashi Tshering, 8/5/90, Khumjung, Everest X2


expid: AMAD10308
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Max Kausch
sponsor: SummitClimb Ama Dablam Expedition 2010
countries: Belgium, Finland, Germany, India, Israel, S Africa, UK
bcdate: 2010-10-18
smtdate: 2010-11-03
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2010-11-06
campsites: BC(18/10,4535m),ABC(21/10,5350m),C1(24/10,5713m),C2(26/10,6033m),Smt(03-04/11)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  The expedition went to the top in two groups. The first one left C2 on 3 November at 3:30 am. They were Bergau, Etienne, Gie, Rai and Tenji Sherpa. All reached the summit at 10:30 am and returned to C1 at 2:45 pm. They descended to BC the next day.

  The second party, who left C2 at midnignt of 3/4 Nov, were Allsopp, Fuller, Garam, Holmes, Imber, Kausch, Muendl, Nelson and three Sherpas, Dawa Jangbu, Gyalzen and Pasang. Holmes and Pasang turned around at 6250m, just below the mushroom ridge, at 6:45 am because they were climbing too slowly; they returned to C1. All others went to the summit on 4 Nov between 12:05 pm (Kausch) and 2:10 pm. (Nelson with Gyalzen). They were back in C2 between 7:30 pm (Muendl) and 10:00 pm (Allsopp) and in BC on the 5th.

  One member had left the team early: Zeevi got to only 5350m and left on 25 October, saying his knee was paining him.

  Fixed rope: some between C1 and C2 up to 6300m.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Jangbu, aka Da Jangbu, 4/6/79, Patle-4, Everest X1, Lhotse X1
    Gyalzen/Gyalje, 25/1/74, Patle, Everest 25/5/10
    Pasang, 21/12/72 (7/9/2029), Makalu vdc, no 8000ers
    Tenji, 1/6/82, Patle, Everest X5


expid: AMAD10309
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Ryszard Pawlowski
sponsor: Patagonia Mountain Agency (PMA) Ama Dablam Expedition 2010
countries: Germany, Sweden, USA
bcdate: 2010-11-04
smtdate: 2010-11-10
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2010-11-16
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(01/11,4500m),C1(06/11,5700m),C2(07/11,6000m),C3(09/11,6200m),Smt(10-11,13-14/11)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Before going to Ama Dablam, 10 members and Lhakpa Chhiri summited Island Peak to acclimatize. On the summit on 1 Nov were Kepczynski, Ligas, Marganski, Pawlowski, Schleypen, Waszkowska, Zablocki and Zadarnowska-Wingert.

  BC was established by the two members who did not climb Island Peak, Kanawka and Madejczyk, plus a Sherpa. The leader, Pawlowski, and the others who did climb Island Peak arrived at BC on 4 November.

  The team's Ama Dablam's summit dates were scattered over four days as follows:

  10 November: Pawlowski, who had summited Ama Dablam numerous times before, started from C2 at 8:30 am, was on the top at 10:30 am and descended all the way to C1 at 4:00 pm. Schleypen left C2 at 9:00 am, summited at 3:30 pm, and stopped at C3 at about 5:30 pm. Zadarnowska-Wingert and Lhakpa Chhiri started from C3 at 7:00 am, reached the summit at 2:20 pm and were also back in C3 at 5:30 pm. All returned to BC on the 11th.

  11 November: Zablocki went alone to the summit. He left C3 at 6:30 am, was on top at 1:45 pm, and was back in C3 at about 3 pm.

  13 November: Two more members summited now. Ligas and Przyborski moved out of C3 at about 7 am, reached the top at 1:00 pm, and returned to C3 at 4:00 pm.

  14 November: Finally the last two had their turn. Kepczynski and Marganski started from C3 at 8:00 am, summited at 2:00 pm, and went back to C3 at 5 pm.

  Non-summiting members:

  Kanawka and her husband, Madejczyk, climbed to C1 on 2 November, did not want to continue the climb, and left the expedition on 4 Nov.

  Spik-Pawlowska was a member of the first summit party on 10 November with her husband, Ryszard Pawlowski, and reached 6400m but then turned back and descended to C1; she had had enough when she found there was too much ice on the route.

  Waszkowska got to C1 on 6 November, had a bad cough and retreated to BC. She trekked to Pangboche village for two or three days and was back in BC before the climbing period had ended.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Chhiri (Sonam), 17/11/74, Pangboche, Everest X6


expid: AMAD10310
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Wendy Cue, Frederick Rawski
sponsor: British Gurkha Officer Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 2010-11-19
smtdate: 2010-11-21
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2010-11-23
campsites: C1(19/11,5800m),C2(20/11,6000m),C3(21/11,6280m),Smt(21/11)
accidents: Wendy Cue mild altitude sickness
agency: Top Himalaya Guides
routememo:
  The team consisted of two American members and two Sherpas (on the same permit were two Britons who were with the Gurkhas, but they climbed separately).

  Rawski was already in Khumbu climbing Pumori with a Norwegian-led expedition (Gunnar Sund) when Cue landed at Lukla on 17 November. She went to Pumori BC and then acclimatized on Pumori to 5800m on Rawksi's team's route and then trekked to Pangboche, where the members and Sherpas met and from where they climbed directly to C1 on Ama Dablam on the 19th.

  They moved very quickly: they went to C2 on the 20th, directly to the top on the 21st, occupied C2.8 the night of the 21st, and on the 22nd they descended to the site of occassional base camps at Mingbo.

  On the summit day, 21 November, the four climbers left C2 at 2:00 am on a day that became very windy (80km/hr) and the climbed on windswept blue ice to the top at 4:00 pm. They descended to their tent, which the Sherpas had pitched at C2.8 site on the way up. They arrived at C2.8 at 6 pm in the dark. (Cue had left her headlamp in C2, but the others had lamps). They found two Iranians already in their tent: six people were crowded in the tent that night.

  On the 23rd the Americans were in Namche Bazar and the next day at Lukla, where they had to spend two nights because bad weather closed the airfield the day after they arrived. So back to Kathmandu on the 26th and Cue was in her office on the 27th.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Finjo/Phinjo Lama Bhote, 5/9/88 (20/5/2045), Hatiya-1, Makalu, Everest X3
    Tshering Pande Bhote, 20/2/78, Hungdung, Farang, Makalu, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X2


expid: AMAD10311
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: N Face-N Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: David Goettler
sponsor: Ama Dablam North Side Expedition
countries: Japan
bcdate: 2010-10-13
smtdate: 2010-11-06
termnote: Abandoned at 6500 due to dangerous snow conditions and avalanching
othersmts: Climebed Chhukung Ri (15 Oct) and Island Peak (23 Oct)
accidents: Fatal helicopter accident during rescue of Goettler and Hiraide
agency: Thamserku Trekking
campsites:
  BC(13/10,4700m),ABC(30/10,4850m),Biv1(05/11,5877m),Biv2(05/11,6200m),Biv3(06/11,6350m),xxx(06/11,6500m)

routememo:
  BC   at Chhukung Panorama Lodge
  Biv2 on North Face
  Biv3 on North Ridge.

  The two member, Sherpa-less team established their base on 13 October at 4730m at Chhukung Panorama Lodge in Chhukung village, but before attacking Ama Dablam, they went to acclimatize on Chhukung Ri (5559m) and Island Peak, both above Chhukung village. They reached Chhukung Ri's summit on 15 October and slept on it for three nights, then back to their base on the 18th. On the 23rd they summited Island Peak also in a one-day's climb. Finally on the 27th they left for the north side of Ama Dablam.

  They trekked southwest to Shanjo/Shangtso village on the trail to Dingboche, then south to Duwo/Dumo Glacier, which is directly north of Ama Dablam's North Face. They made ABC at 4855m on the moraine and slept there on 30 October. Now it was snowing, so they returned to base the next day.

  On 3 November they were back in ABC and having a close look at a route up the North Face and the traverse to the North Ridge and the summit. The following day they moved from ABC to their first bivouac at 5877m and on the 5th to their second bivouac at 6358m on the very steep (60-90 degrees) face.

  They crossed the face diagonally to the left to North Ridge at 6400mm on 6 November. They continued up the ridge to 6500m. But snow conditions made it impossible to go higher on the ridge. The snow was very loose on the East Face, and at 10:15 am a snow avalanche hit them and carried them down ten meters. On the North Face the snow was like sugar. They started down the  North Ridge, but at 6300m they encountered cornices and seracs. It was impossible to descend the ridge any farther. They did not have enough equipment to fix ropes to rappel down the face. "We were trapped" said Goettler. They could neither retreat nor advance.

  They bivouacked here at a small col on the ridge and called their Kathmandu agent to send a rescue helicopter, but they worried that night that a helicopter might not be able to reach them because a strong wind was blowing from the west.

  According to their written report of their rescue, the wind dropped the next morning, the 7th. Above and below their bivouac there were tall seracs, and Hiraide climbed to the top the serac below to fix a rope with a snow bar for their rescue. They decided that Goettler would be taken off first and all their expedition gear, including tent, food, fuel, two 50m ropes, medical kit and phone, would be left with Hiraide. The helicopter circled them from the east in a light breeze about 9 am its to skids touched down on the top of the serac, and took Goettler to Chhukung. David was rescued.

  Hiraide waited at the top of the serac for the helicopter to return for him. It came 30 centimeters from him, but his instinct told him that it would be too dangerous for him to board. At the moment when he was hesitating the helicopter slid on the couloir of the NE Face "with a bang and roar." Black smoke billowed out, and there was a strong smell of oil. (Hiraide did not actually see the helicopter's rotor touch the serac because he was crouching in the snow). The pilot, Sabin Basnet, and the engineer, Purna Awale, were killed.

  On the following day, the 8th, Hiraide was also plucked of the mountain. At 7:00 am he heard the sound of a helicopter engine and as it approached, he gestured to the pilot that the top of the serac was a danger to the rotor; the pilot flew in several circles to check conditions and informed Hiraide that they could not pick him up where he was on the serac. He gestured that he would climb down 50m to a flat place. He was rescued 15 minutes later and, with all their gear, flown to Lukla.

  Hiraide's thumb was slightly frostbitten.


expid: AMAD10312
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Marty Schmidt
sponsor: Marty Schmidt Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 2010-10-29
smtdate: 2010-11-02
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2010-11-03
othersmts: Attempted Lhotse (LHOT-103-02)
campsites: BC(29/10,4500m),Biv(31/10,6000m),Smt(02/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
primid: LHOT10302
routememo:
  While Schmidt was accompanying Nobmann to the airport on the 27th for Nobmann's flight home, his "heart, body, mind and spirit called him to head out to climb Ama Dablam solo in the next few days." So he flew back to Lukla on the 28th, trekked to Ama Dablam BC in one day, and on the 31st climbed from BC to the site of C3, where he bivouacked at 6000m.

  On 2 November he went for the top. He left his 6000m bivouac at 7 am on a "beautiful day" and was on the summit at 1:00 pm. He had to slow down at the final 70m to the top to join with another team's Sherpa to fix rope on the whole last section.

  He then descended to BC, where he arrived at 9 pm. On 3 November, he left BC and trekked back to Lukla. He flew to Kathmandu next day.


expid: AMAD10313
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Francois Birraux
sponsor: Chablais Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Deboche->Dingboche->Lobuche->Chhukung->Pangboche
bcdate: 2010-10-23
smtdate: 2010-10-29
termdate: 2010-10-31
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to last part icy and danger of avalanches
campsites: BC(23/10,4800m),C1(28/10,5700m),C2(29/10,6200m),xxx(29/10,6200m)
accidents: Buttay illness
agency: Mountain Tribes Trekking
routememo:
  High point at C2 site.

  Goudard, Birraux, Wangchu and Dawa Tenzi climbed up to 6200m (C2) on 28 Oct and turned around to C1 due to danger of avalanche. On 29 Oct they went down to BC. 

  Buttay spent night at C1. On 28 Oct he had fever and chest problem, and went down to BC on 29 Oct.

  Sherpas:
    Wangchu Sherpa, 02/02/1978, Taksindu-3
    Dawa Tenzi, 21/03/86, Thamo, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X2


expid: AMAD10314
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Iran
leaders: Ali Zarrin
sponsor: Abbas Zafari Memorial Iranian Expedition to Ama Dablam
approach: Namche->Debuche
bcdate: 2010-11-15
smtdate: 2010-11-21
smttime: 1440
termdate: 2010-11-24
campsites: BC(15/11,4600m),C1(19/11,5600m),C2(20/11,5900m),Smt(21/11)
achievment: 1st Iranian ascent
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Safarzadeh and Zarrin started their summit push from C2 at 2 am on 21 Nov. They reached the summit at 2:40 pm, stayed on summit for about 15 minutes, then descended to C3. They spent the night in Tshering Pande Bhote's tent with Rawski, Wendy Cue and her Sherpa Dawa. Next day 22 Nov, Safarzadeh and Zarrin spent night at C2. On 23 Nov both descended to BC. 

  Mindu Chhiri Sherpa got chest and leg problem little above C3 and turned around from there.

  Sherpa:
    Mindu Chhiri Sherpa, 29/8/71, Kurima, Lokhim-9, Solu


expid: AMAD10315
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Rosa Real
sponsor: Trango World Ama Dablam 2010
approach: Phakding->Namche->Lobuche->Gorakshep->Kalapattar->Dingboche->Island Pk
bcdate: 2010-11-01
smtdate: 2010-11-08
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2010-11-14
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (Fresnada, Parga and Real)
campsites: BC(01/11,4530m),C1(05/11,5500m),C2(06/11,6000m),Smt(08/11)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Fresneda, Parga, Real, Viscarret and Vives started their summit bid from C2 on 8 Nov at about 2:30 am. Real had to turn around from 200m below the summit due to high altitude sickness. She said that the symptom was her mind was not working in a normal way. When she spoke she felt that it was not she but somebody else was talking. Viscarret and Vives accompanied Real down to C2. Fresneda and Parga continued for summit for summit and they got to the top at about 1:30 pm and stayed there for about 30 minutes. Both descended to C2 where they arrived at about 6 pm. All members descended to BC on 9 Nov. The summit day weather was very cold, clear and windy. There were two climbers (Americans) ahead of the two Spanish summiters and nobody behind them.


expid: AMAD10316
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Fabrizio Zangrilli
sponsor: Field Touring Alpine Ama Dablam Expedition 2010
countries: Denmark, Netherlands, New Zealand, Sweden
bcdate: 2010-11-11
smtdate: 2010-11-26
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2010-11-28
othersmts: Island Peak
campsites: BC(11/11,4800m),C1(17/11,5800m),C2(25/11,6100m),Smt(26/11)
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
routememo:
  The team established BC on 11 November at 4800m, the normal site for Ama Dablam climbs, and then went from there to Island Peak for acclimatize. All members and Siddhi Bahadur Tamang summited on the 13th and returned to BC on the 15th.

  They moved to C1 for the night of the 18th and on the 19th went up to the site for C2 to acclimatize further, but went down to BC the same day. Then followed a period of very high winds (7-80 km/hr) which kept them in BC until the 24th, when four members and a Tamang began their bid for the summit.

  On the 24th they slept in C1, and on 25 October they established C2. Zangrilli and Siddhi put Brandt, Hedlund and Van Gassel in their tent and made their dinner, then went down to C1 in order to minimize loads. At 12:15 am of the 26th, Zangrilli and Siddhi left C1, climbed for 45 minutes to join the other summit party members in C2, and the five men left C2 at 1:20 am for the top in no wind. They all summited at 12:00 noon in 30 km/hr wind.

  Brandt and Van Gassel returned to C2 at 4 pm. But Hedlund was extremely tired, and Zangrilli stopped with him at another team's site, where Zangrilli gave Van Gassel the food and water Zangrilli had carried with him, and half an hour later they moved slowly down to C3, where they arrived at 6 pm. In C2 Zangrilli and Siddhi again made dinner for the members and returned to C1.

  Zangrilli and Siddhi returned to C2 at 8:30 am on the 27th. They woke up the three members, gave them breakfast and packed up the camp. They all descended to BC at 2 pm in the face of 50 km/hr.

  Non-summiting members:

  Gerstein reached half way between C1 and C2 on 25 October on the team's way to establish C2, then retreated to C1 and next day to BC. He was overweight and had two artificial knees that did not permit his feet to operate normally.

  Gustavsson got to C1 and slept there twice and immediately went back to BC both times. She was intimidated by the drop-offs she saw from the route.

  Joll slept in C1 on the 25th and reached 6500m the next day with the summit party but became too tired to go on; he turned around there and descended to C1 that day and to BC the following day.

  Hired:
    Siddhi Bahadur Tamang, 1981, Lamabagar-5, Dolakha, no 8000ers


expid: AMAD10317
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Damien Francois
sponsor: Junglee Biralo Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 2010-11-10
smtdate: 2010-11-18
termdate: 2010-11-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to difficult ice conditions
campsites: BC(10/11,4600m),C1(15/11,5700m),C2(16/11,6000m),C3(17/11,6400m),xxx(18/11,6500m)
agency: Himalayan Human Adventure
routememo:
  Francois and Mingma Tsiri started their summit push from C3 at 6 am on 18 Nov. When they reached at 6500m at about 8 am on the way up, at that point ice was very hard and very difficult to tackle steps. Then Francois decided to turn around. They descended to C1, spent the night. Next day 19 Nov they descended to BC. Francois may go to Cho Oyu next year.

  Sherpas:
    Mingma Tsiri, 1/08/70 (17/4/2027), Beding, Everest X15, Cho Oyu X3, Manaslu X1


expid: AMAD10318
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Miguel Angel Vidal Gonzalez
sponsor: An independent on Ama Dablam
approach: Phakding->Namche->Lobuche->Gorakshep->Kalapattar->Dingboche->Island Pk
bcdate: 2010-11-06
smtdate: 2010-11-09
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2010-11-11
campsites: BC(06/11,4530m),C1(07/11,5500m),C2.7(08/11,6200m),Smt(09/11)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Vidal Gonzalez started his summit push from 6200m (top camp between C2 and C3) at 6:30 am on 9 Nov. He reached summit at about 10 am, stayed on summit for about 15 minutes, then descended to C1 at about 5 pm, spent the night there. Next day went down to BC. The summit day weather was very good, clear sky, but windy, not too much cold. This was his third attempt on Ama Dablam.


expid: AMAD10319
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Mike Pelchat
sponsor: 2010 Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Mingbo->Khumjung->Pangboche
bcdate: 2010-10-23
smtdate: 2010-11-03
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2010-11-04
campsites: BC(23/10,4490m),C1(26/10,5900m),C2(28/10,6000m),Smt(03/11)
agency: Sherpa High Ambitions
routememo:
  Pelchat started his summit bid on 3 Npv at 3:30am from C2. He arrived summit at 9:30 am, stayed on summit for 30 minutes, then descended to C2 where he reached at 12:30 pm. He continued descending to BC where he reached at 5:30 pm. The summit day weather was clear but cold. The wind was about 30 km/ph. The upper part of climbing route was all ice except about 50m. After him there were 6 climbers (US) summited on that day. Pelchat used C2 tent of Asian Trekking.

  Pelchat's Sherpa went up to 6000m and did not want to go further up, as it was too technical for him. 

  Fixed rope: 60m between C1-C2.

  Sherpa
    Kancha Nuru Sherpa, 06/09/63, Khumjung, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X1


expid: AMAD10320
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Israel
leaders: Nadav Ben Yehuda
sponsor: 2010 Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Jiri->Junbesi->Kharikhola->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2010-11-10
smtdate: 2010-11-16
smttime: 1445
termdate: 2010-11-19
campsites: BC(10/11,4400m),C1(12/11,5800m),C2(13/11,6150m),C2.7(15/11,6420m),Smt(16/11)
accidents: Ben Yehuda fell about 10m near to C2 while descending, not injured
agency: None
routememo:
  Ben Yehuda and Ang Sona strted at 7:30 am from C2.7. They reached summit at 2:45 pm, stayed on summit about 7 minutes, descended to C2.7. Ben Yehuda alone about 8:30 pm. Next day to BC.

  While descending Ang Sona asked by Yehuda if his headlamp is working. Ben Yehuda told him that the battery of headlamp is dead. Then Ang Sona started descending quickly. Ben Yehuda descending slowly in the dark clipping on two fixed ropes. Suddenly, anchor of one of the ropes came off that resulted in Yehuda's fall about 10m near to the C2. However, he managed to stop the fall with the other rope.

  Sherpa:
    Ang Sona Sherpa, 20/11/80 (05/08/2037), Gudel-4, Solu


expid: AMAD10321
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Norway
leaders: Haavard Gjerdset
sponsor: Ama Dablam Expedition 2010
approach: Phakding->Namche->Tengboche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2010-10-31
smtdate: 2010-11-11
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2010-11-14
campsites: BC(31/10,4600m),C1(04/11,5700m),C2(05/11,6000m),C3(10/11,6270m),Smt(11-12/11)
accidents: Saeboe suffered from diarrhea
agency: Peaks of Nepal
routememo:
  First group of the team of six climbers, Eidesen, Faabess, Helgesen, Pedersen, Prietz along with Jangbu, Lhakpa Thundu and Kancha Nuru Sherpa left C3 at 6 am on 11 Nov for the summit. Eidesen turned around from 6400m between C3 and the Dablam (6450m) to C1 where he reached around 3 pm; he was tired. Prietz followed Eidesen with Jangbu. Helgesen and Lhakpa Thundu reached summit at 9:30 am, Faaness at 10:30 am, Pedersen and Kancha Nuru at 12:30 pm. The summiters stayed on summit for about an hour. On descent Faabess reached C2 at 4 pm and spent night there. Helgesen descended to C1 where he reached around 3 pm and spent night there. Pedersen descended to C3 at around 3 pm. Next day all went down to BC. The summit day weather was good, blue sky but little windy. There were two other Norwegian climbers and one more climber summited on that day.

  The second group consisting of Grondalen, Hansen, Kristiansen, Norheim, Lhakpa Thundu, Kancha Nuru and Phur Sona (Ang Sonam) started their summit push at 7:15 am on 12 Nov. Norheim turned around from 6400m to C1 due to cold feet; she slept in C1. Grondalen and Kancha Nuru reached summit at 11:30 am, Hansen and Kristiansen at 12:00 noon with Lhakpa Thundu and Phur Sona. Grondalen and Kancha Nuru stayed on summit for about one hour and rest of members and Sherpas about 30 minutes. All summiting members and Sherpas spent night at C3 and next day all reached BC. The weather on summit day was very good, clear sky and little wind. There was a Brit and a Sherpa who summited ahead of the Norwegian team on that day. 

  Gjeroset (leader) shuttled between BC and C2. He went to C2 three times, but did not sleep there. He was taking care of expedition's logistics. 

  Voyenli climbed up to C2. He was slow and did not attempt for summit.

  Saeboe had to leave the expedition due to diarrhea; he left from Tengboche on 30 Oct by helicopter and left Nepal on 2 Nov.

  Note: Kancha Nuru and Lhakpa Thundu both summited on 11 Nov with first team; started with the second team from C3 on 12 Nov.

  Fixed rope: 100m white tower between C2 and C3.

  Sherpas:
    Jangbu, 23/8/73 (07/05/2030), Namche, Cho Oyu X1
    Kancha Nuru, 2/6/87 (19/02/2044), Pangboche, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1
    Lhakpa Thundu, 20/6/70 (06/03/2027), Pangboche, Everest X9, Cho Oyu X2, etc
    Phur Sona (Ang Sonam), 17/7/69 (02/04/2026), Pangboche, Everest X1


expid: AMAD10322
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Maurizio Giordani
sponsor: Sosat Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Phakding->Namche->Renjo La->Cho La->Kalapattar
bcdate: 2010-11-02
smtdate: 2010-11-06
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2010-11-09
campsites: BC(02/11,4600m),C1(05/11,5700m),Smt(06/11)
agency: Barunche Treks
routememo:
  Endrizzi, Esposito, Luciano Ferrari, Paolo Ferrari, Giordani, Finali, Heltai, Paoletto and Zeni started from C1 at 00:30 am of 6 Nov. Endrizzi and Zeni turned around from C2 (6100m) to C1 as they were very tired. Esposito, Luciano Ferrari, Paolo Ferrari, Giordani, Finali, Heltai and Paoletto reached to the top beween 2 pm to 2:30 pm. They stayed on the top for about 30 minutes and descended to C1 where they arrived at 9 pm. Next day 7 Nov all went down to BC. The weather on summit day was very good, clear sky, very good snow condition and not cold. Before this team there were three Sherpas and three or four foreigners summited on that day. 

  Dusi went up to C1 and did not want to go further up.


expid: AMAD10323
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Agusti Pallares Vaque
sponsor: Two Spaniards on Ama Dablam
bcdate: 2010-09-16
smtdate: 2010-09-20
termdate: 2010-09-22
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(16/09,4600m),C1(19/09,5800m),C2(20/09,6000),xxx(20/09,6000m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Mompel and Pallares climbed up to 6000m. The weather was very bad; it was raining and snow was falling. Then they decided to give up.


expid: AMAD10324
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Jamie Anderson
sponsor: Ama Dablam 2010 Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Deboche
bcdate: 2010-10-18
smtdate: 2010-11-02
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2010-11-04
campsites: BC(18/10,4600m),C1(20/10,5100m),C2(21/10,6100m),Smt(02/11)
agency: Himalayan Ascent
routememo:
  Anderson and Ang Kazi started from C2 at 2:30 am on 2 Nov. They reached summit at 3 pm, stayed on summit for about 10 minutes. They descended to 6700m where they reached around 5:30 pm and spent the night there. Next day they went down to BC.

  Sherpa:
    Ang Kazi Sherpa, 11/5/85, Sisuwa Khola, Sankhuwasabha, Everest X5, Manaslu X1


expid: AMAD10325
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Javier Zabalo Sainz
sponsor: Nepalese Himalaya Expedition
approach: Phakding->Namche->Pheriche-> Lobuche->Gorakshep->Island Peak BC
bcdate: 2010-10-23
smtdate: 2010-11-03
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2010-11-08
othersmts: Climbed by both on 22 Oct
campsites: BC(23/10,4600m),C1(30/10,5700m),C2(02/11,6000m),Smt(03/11)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Zabalo Sainz and Camacho Gimeno left C2 at 4 am on 3 Nov. Camacho Gimeno reached summit at 12:30 pm and Zabalo Sainz reached summit at 12:45 pm; they stayed on summit for 10 minutes then descended to C2 where they reached at 4:30 pm. They spent the night there. Next day on 4 Nov both went down to BC. After the Spanish duo there were one woman and a man summited on that day. The summit day weather was clear sky, but very cold and windy.


expid: AMAD10326
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Joelle Brupbacher
sponsor: A Swiss on Ama Dablam
bcdate: 2010-10-12
smtdate: 2010-10-31
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2010-11-02
campsites: BC(12/10,4500m),C1(14/10,5700m),C2(30/10,6100m),Smt(31/10)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Brupbacher came to Ama Dablam and left Nepal without her presence being recorded for the Database. Marty Schmidt, on the mountain at the same time, called attention to her on his return to Kathmandu, and was certain she had not summited.

  In an email on 15 December, she said she had reached the summit on 31 October. That meant she was the first to get to the top this season: the next successes were on 2 November.

  She said she occupied C2 at 6100m on the 30th, and at 3:40 am of the 31st, she left camp for the top with members of a group from Him Ascent (** see below), but they turned around before summiting. She went on to the summit at about 12:00 hours in "very windy, snowy" weather and returned to C2 at about 4:00 pm.

  Schmidt, who summited on 2 November, said in Kathmandu on 5 November he met her as he was going up and she was coming down. She told him that she'd summited on the 31st. Schmidt said it was a stormy day with one foot of snowfall. She had followed the fixed ropes to the top; when Schmidt summited, he said, the final 70 meters to the top had not been fixed; he and Sherpa had to fix that section. He had found no tracks in the snow to the summit. What he had found was Brupbacher in his tent at C2, which forced him to share it with her, which did not please him. She had occupied other people's tents, he said, and had no ice axe.

  Adrian Ballinger, the leader of another expedition, agreed on 10 November with Schmidt's statements. He and a member of his Ama Dablam team were certain that she gotten no higher than the Yellow Tower at 6000m on 29 October. She used their tents.

  In response to follow up questions, she wrote on 24 December, "I am not surprised that there has been a dispute around my summit success as I think there were some people who did not like me, which I could feel. After the Italians had left base camp, I shared the kitchen with Asian Trekking. We had made arrangement that I could use their tent as Camp 2. However it was occupied when I got there and I was happy that I could share a tent with two Sherpas (one of them from Asian Trekking). From 31st October to 1st November I shared another tent but this time with Marty Schmidt -- to put it mildly, Marty did not really become my friend." [Marty Schmidt's trekking agency was Himalayan Guides. The trekking agent for the only Italian group was Baruntse Treks, and their team left BC on 9 November to return to Kathmandu, one week after she had left. Ballinger's expedition was looked after by Mountain Experience.]

  Brupbacher continued, "I had deposited an ice axe at Camp 2 but when I got there it had gone and thankfully I had taken another ice axe from BC."

  "I can imagine who is doubting my summit success, but there were enough people who saw me the whole time from C2 (from BC you can see the climbers from above Camp 2 to the summit)."

  Asked to name who had seen her, she replied that there were two Spaniards with her in C2, one of whom was named Joaquin; one of them climbed to just below C3 with her but turned around. She was sure his name was Joaquin because he reminded her of the handsome Joaquin Cortez. [No Spaniard with that name was amongst any Ama Dablam team's members.]

  When asked again about tents, she answered on 20 January 2011: "Asian Trekking's Sherpa and his client (an Iranian woman [Ms. Maryam Saei Parsa] offered me to use their tent at C2. It saved me carrying up my tent. When I arrived at C2, Asian Trekking's tent was already occupied by a few Sherpas (I have no idea from which agency they were) and did not want to share their tent with me. A short while later Marty Schmidt arrived at C2 and he was looking for a place to sleep and the last free space was taken by me in the tent of Adventure Consultants."

  Fixed rope: 20m just below C2.

  **Ed. notes: Most likely referring to the Himalayan Guides group led by Zachary Poulton (see AMAD-103-32).

  Jorge Corominas (Spanish) joined a Spanish women's team (Rosa Real) on Ama Dablam on October 30-31.


expid: AMAD10327
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Raymond Griffith
sponsor: Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Phakding->Namche->Tengboche->Dingboche
bcdate: 2010-11-08
smtdate: 2010-11-18
termdate: 2010-11-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6782m due to numb left foot and losing vision in left eye
campsites: BC(08/11,4590m),ABC(12/11,5400m),C1(13/11,5760m),C2(16/11,5940m),C3(17/11,6400m),xxx(18/11,6782m)
accidents: Losing vision in left eye
agency: Mountain Madness
routememo:
  On November 18 Griffith and Pemba left C3 at 6:30 am for the top. Griffith had to turn around 30m below the summit. It was 9:30 am, he got numb left foot and lost vision in his left eye. As he wrote in his email, visibility was very poor and very high wind. Griffith and Pemba reached C3 at 10:30 am and continued to C2 wehre they arrived at 2:30 pm. Griffith spent 18 days in October trekking around Annapurna route.


  Email from Raymond Griffith - Feb 9, 2011

  Although I turned around only 30m from the summit, I consider it a successful climb. All of the most difficult parts of the climb were behind me and I turned around while it was still safe for me to make the descent.

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Gyalzen/Gyalze, 29/11/73, Pangkoma, Solu, Cho Oyu X3, Everest X6


expid: AMAD10328
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Iran
leaders: Maryam Saei Parsa
sponsor: Ama Dablam Expedition 2010
approach: Phakding->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2010-10-24
smtdate: 2010-11-05
termdate: 2010-11-08
termnote: Abandoned at 6650m due to exhaustion
campsites: BC(24/10,4500m),ABC(26/10,5500m),C1(02/11,5600m),C2(03/11,5900m),C3(05/11,6200m),xxx(5/11,6650m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Nawang and Saei Parsa started from C2 at 11 pm on 4 Nov. She was very slow, not a skilled climber, Nawang said. Saei Parsa and Nawang started their [final] summit push at 7 am from C3. Around 12:30 pm on 5 Nov they reached at about 6650m. Saei Parsa was exhausted. Nawang gave her oxygen and asked her to move. Saei Parsa said that the regulator of oxygen cylinder did not work. Then she decided to give up her attempt to go to summit, Saei Parsa came down to C3 and spent the night there, whereas Nawang went down to C2. Next morning Nawang went up to C3 and they went down together to BC. Saei Parsa did not sleep at C3 on her way up.

  Sherpa:
    Nawang Tenzing (Nawangle) (in the citizenship certificate name written as
     "Ngawang" but he writes it as Nawang), 1/02/60, Phortse, Ever X3, Lhotse X2


expid: AMAD10329
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Mexico
leaders: David Liano
sponsor: Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Phakding->Namche->Deboche->Pheriche
bcdate: 2010-11-10
smtdate: 2010-11-17
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2010-11-18
campsites: BC(10/11,4600m),C1(15/11,5800m),C3(16/11,6200m),Smt(17/11)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  Liano and Tshering Dorje left C3 around 5 am on 17 Nov. They reached the top at 8:30 am and stayed on summit for about 40 minutes. Then they descended to C3 at about 11:30 am. Both continued their descent to BC wehre they arrived around 11 pm. 

  Ricardo Liano, father of David, went up to C1. He did not try to go to the summit due to technical difficulty of the route.

  Sherpa:
    Tshering Dorje, 20/7/70 (05/04/2007), Kharikhola, Everet X2, Cho Oyu X5


expid: AMAD10330
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Christine Burke
sponsor: Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Deboche
bcdate: 2010-10-18
smtdate: 2010-11-02
termdate: 2010-11-04
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to slow progress
campsites: BC(18/10,4600m),C1(28/10,5100m),C2(30/10,6100m),C3(01/11,6300m),xxx(02/11,6700m)
agency: Himalayan Ascent
routememo:
  Burke and Lhakpa started their summit bid from C3 on 2 Nov. When they reached 6700m, it was late and Burke was very slow. They decided to turn around, back to C3. Next day to BC.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Sherpa, 25/07/68, Tamku-9, Sankhuwasabha, Cho Oyu X3


expid: AMAD10332
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Zachary Poulton
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Ama Dablam Expedition 2010
approach: Phakding->Namche->Tengboche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2010-10-16
smtdate: 2010-10-30
termdate: 2010-11-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6740m due to no fixed line, over hanging avalanche, lots of snow
campsites: BC(16/10,4550m),ABC(20/10,5700m),C1(21/10,5800m),C2(31/10,6100m),xxx(30/10,6740m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Ms Hunter, Isherwood, Poulton, Shorthouse, Matthew Smith, Ang Gelu and Mingma Gyabu intended to go for summit from C2 on 1 Nov. On 30 Oct Mingma Gyabu went up to 6740m. But the snow condition was not good. There was lots of fresh snow during night. Then the team decided to go down. All went down to BC. 

  Gibson, Victoria Smith and Taylor went up to 5900m. Gibson was lifted by helicopter on 27 Oct and left Kathmandu on 29 or 30 Nov. Victoria was evacuated from Pheriche due to her losing vision on 31st Oct.

  Fixed rope: 600m between C1-C2.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Gelu Sherpa, 26 years old, Phedi, Khotang-9
    Mingma Gyabu Sherpa, 16 May 89, Lelep-7, Taplejung, Everest 23/5/10


expid: AMAD10401
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Kwon-Ho
sponsor: 2010-11 Yeosu Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Phakding->Namche->Tengboche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2011-01-07
smtdate: 2011-01-19
smttime: 1550
termdate: 2011-01-25
campsites: BC(07/01,4500m),ABC(09/01,5500m),C1(12/01,5800m),C2(17/01,6100m),C3(18/01,6300m),Smt(19/01)
agency: Ang Rita Treks
routememo:
  Jo, Lee, Pasang and Nima started their push at 6:50 am from C3 on 19 Jan. The team reached the top at 3:50 am and stayed on summit for 20 minutes. On their descent from the top Jo and Lee bived at 6600m above the serac because Jo had night visibility problem and was very tired. Both Sherpas went down to C3. Jo and Lee went down to C3, next morning 20 Jan. The two female members, Kim sisters, were at C3. All together along with the two Sherpas they descended to C2 and spent the night there. Summit day weather was very windy but clear sky. 

  Kim sisters decided to remain at C3 due to strong wind and did not try for the top.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Sherpa, 25/11/72 (10/08/2029), Khumjung-3, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1
    Nima Gyalzen, 18/5/76 (05/02/2033), Beding, Everest X8, Manaslu X2


expid: ANN310301
peakid: ANN3
year: 2010
route1: E Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Nick Bullock
sponsor: British Annapurna III Expedition 2010
bcdate: 2010-10-07
smtdate: 2010-10-27
termdate: 2010-11-09
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to strong winds
campsites: BC(07/10,4600m),C1(25/10,5960m),xxx(27/10,6100m)
agency: Loben Expeditions
routememo:
  BC on a moraine of receded glacier southeast of point 4669m Shangrila map
  C1 in snowhole dug by team on East Ridge
  High piont on East Ridge.

  The distances from BC and C1 to the summit were considerable: BC to top was 7.5 km and C1 to the top 6 km.

  The three climbing members, Benson, Bullock and Helliker, began acclimatizing on 12 October by climbing to the site for their C1 and returning to BC. Then a period of bad weather set in, and it was a week before they set out again from BC, but now, on the 19th, they got only 5560m, where there was too much snow, so they went back from there to BC.

  Now more bad weather. On the 25th they managed to return to C1 site at 5960m and dug a snow hole to crawl into. The next day they enlarged the snowhole, but was too windy to move up. On the 27th they did move up the long ridge while gaining little altitude as they climbed along it. They got to 6100m in strong wind and returned to BC the same day. They were, in any case, still acclimatizing.

  Again there was a period of bad weather with alternating snow, rain, hail and wind.

  On 5 November they went back to C1 and stayed there two nights. But back to BC on the 7th. The weather was still unsettled, it was too windy, and the forecast was for the strong winds to get stronger. They gave up. They left BC on November to return to Kathmandu.


expid: BARU10303
peakid: BARU
year: 2010
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Sergio Zigliotto
sponsor: Baruntse 2010
approach: Lukla->Mera Peak
bcdate: 2010-10-23
smtdate: 2010-10-28
termdate: 2010-11-02
termnote: Abandoned at 6450m due to difficult conditions on route and members not strong
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak
campsites: BC(23/10,5400m),C1(27/10,6150m),xxx(28/10,6450m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  BC near lake
  C1 just over West Col
  High point at site for C2.

  On their way to Baruntse BC, the entire team scaled Mera Peak on 21 Oct to acclimatize.

  On 28 October, Rubito and Pemba Ongchu climbed from C1 to the site for their C2 at 6450m at the base of the SE Ridge and then rejoined other members in C1, and all descended to BC the same day.

  They decided to abandon the climb that day. Other teams had not been able to get across a big crevasse on the ridge, there was a lot of snow on the mountain, and members were not in good condition.

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Ongchu, 2/10/83, Kharikhola, Lhotse 23/5/10


expid: BARU10304
peakid: BARU
year: 2010
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Sandy Allan
sponsor: Team Ascent Mt. Baruntse Expedition 2010
ascent1: 111
countries: Canada, USA
bcdate: 2010-10-25
smtdate: 2010-11-05
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2010-11-07
campsites: BC(25/10,5450m),C1(28/10,6100m),C2(04/11,6450m),Smt(05/11)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  BC near lake
  C1 east of West Col towards SE Ridge
  C2 west of Pt 6730m on Himalaya Kailash Everest BC map.

  On their way from Lukla to BC, the entire team went to Mera Peak to get some acclimatization.

  The summit party consisted of three members and three Sherpas: Allan, Bellworthy, Cattrall, Lhakpa Rangdu, Lhakpa Sherpa and Pasang. They left C2 at 2:00 am on 5 Nov; Cattrall, Lhakpa Rangdu and Pasang were on the summit at 8:00 am while Allan, Bellworthy and Lhakpa summited at 9:30 am. The skies were clear and it was bit windy on the top, but almost calm below.

  Cattrall and the two Sherpas with him descended to C2 at 11:00 am and waited there for others to join them there. All went back in BC together at 5:00 pm.

  The summit did not include two members. Kerry Vatistas had developed altitude sickness on 28 October at 5800m while climbing to C1. She immediately returned to BC that day and left the expedition the next day. Her husband, Paul Vatistas, went back to BC and left with her; he had already had a disagreement with the leader, so was ready to leave anyway.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Rangdu, 18/11/67, Tala Kharka, Sotang-6, Cho Oyu X3, Everest X7
    Lhakpa Sherpa, 11/10/78, Namche, Everest X5
    Pasang Sherpa, 27/4/78, Lelep-8, Taplejung, Kangch X1, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X1


expid: BARU10305
peakid: BARU
year: 2010
route1: SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: SummitClimb Baruntse Expedition 2010
ascent1: 108-109
countries: Australia, Colombia, Estonia, Finland, Germany, Indonesia, Norway
approach: Lukla->Mera Peak
bcdate: 2010-10-26
smtdate: 2010-10-29
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2010-11-03
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak
campsites: BC(26/10,5450m),C1(28/10,6100m),C2(02/11,6400m),Smt(29/10,03/11)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  BC near lake
  C1 near top of West Col
  C2 near bottom of SE Ridge.

  To acclimatize, the team went to Mera Peak on their way to Baruntse BC and 20 members reached the summit.

  The first people from this expedition to summit were three of their Sherpas while fixing rope to the top. On 29 October, Jangbu (from Patle), Lhakpa Tendu and Palden Nima worked their way to the summit.

  Between 2:00 and 2:30 am on 3 November, the following members and Sherpas left C2 and reached the summit: Berg, Hoefer, Konkonen, Krauss, Lotjonen, Ronnevig, Wegge and Wilson with eight Sherpas: Dorje, Jangbu (from Patle from C1), Jangbu (from Kharikhola), Nawang Nuri, Pasang and another Pasang (both from Patle), Sange and Thile Nurbu.

  They were on the top between 10:00 am and 12:00 noon. Three members, Berg, Lotjonen and Scott, who summited at 10:00 am, were very fast and descended all the way to BC the same day. All the other members stopped in C2 and joined them in BC on the following day.

  There was a "huge" storm on 31 October and 1 November: getting wind was blowing, it was very cold, and a half-meter of snow fell. It caused a number of members to decide that they had enough and were no longer into climbing the mountain.

  Non-summiting members:

  Browder reached 7000m on summit day, but a very bad cough that sent him down.

  Cocorinis, an elderly man by mountaineering standards, did not go above BC and left in a helicopter on 3 November.

  Ericson, Ferro, Kunz, Levo and Snell reached C1 on 30 October (Levo on the 29th) and did not want to continue.

  Karu reached C1's site, but retreated to BC with a tooth infection and a bad headache and did not resume climbing.

  Mazur went to C1 on 28 October, but no higher; he felt he had to to stay with the members who didn't want to resume climbing.

  Rabbels reached C1 on the 30th, was tired and coughing badly, had had enough.

  Schuck got to C1 on the 30th, but was too tired to continue.

  Truesdale did not get above BC because of a continuous bad cough.

  Whitehorn had bad stomach pains and left by helicopter on 3 November.

  George Chandrahusadha reached C1, then turned around as he said he was tired of the blowing storm and did not feel well.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Pasang, 15/6/84 (2/3/2041), Patle-4, no 8000ers
    Dorje, 8/9/85 (23/5/2042), Patle-5, no 8000ers
    Jangbu, 24/5/67, Patle, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X4, Lhotse X1
    Jangbu, 22/2/81, Kharikhola, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X1
    Nawang Nuri, 15/5/79, Dhaurkarkha, Patle, no 8000ers
    Lhakpa Tendu, 28/3/77, Patle, no 8000ers
    Palden Nima, 29/8/78, Yaphu, Makalu, Cho Oyu 24/5/10
    Pasang, 1/10/85 (15/6/2042), Patle-4, no 8000ers
    Sange, 21/5/71, Dinding, Makalu, Lhotse 20/5/09
    Thile Nuru/Nurbu, 26/5/74, Chaplung, Khumbu, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X1, Lhotse X1


expid: BARU10306
peakid: BARU
year: 2010
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Paul Fauset
sponsor: Matt Poz Baruntse Expedition
countries: Italy
bcdate: 2010-10-14
smtdate: 2010-10-20
termdate: 2010-10-23
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(13/10,4400m),C1(19/20,6100m),C2(20/10,6400m),xxx(20/10,6600m)
agency: Himalayan Glacier
routememo:
  BC on northwest side of Lukla
  C1 just over West Col
  C2 at bottom of SE Ridge
  High point at SE Ridge.

  From Lukla, the team of two Britons, one Italian and two Sherpas trekked southeast to Zatrwa La to Hinku Khola, north to Rote and Tangnag, east to Mera La, the Hinku Valley and BC, which was on the northwest side of the lake where most teams place their BCs.

  They established BC on 13 October, and made C1 and C2 at the customary sites on the 19th and 20th, respectively. As soon as they had set up C2 at the bottom of the SE Ridge, their Sherpas, Lhakpa Dorje and Pem Tenji, climbed up to 6600m on the ridge and reported back that snow conditions made the route impassable and there was avalanche danger.

  The members did not go above C2. Everyone slept in C2 that night and descended to BC the next day, the 21st. They decided on the 22nd to abandon the climb and on the 23rd left BC to return to Kathmandu.

  Ammara adds: "In the morning of the 21st after checking the meteo and snow early morning, we started going back to BC. Anyway, it was quite obvious from the afternoon of the 20th that going up was too dangerous. I even had to open the track going down! .. In the morning of the 22nd we had a visit from the late Chuwang Nima and (the independent American woman) Melissa Arnot; they had tea with us, and I am sure that our Sherpas told them that the situation "up there" was not good at all.

  The Britons and Italian formally decided on the 22nd to abandon the climb and on the 23rd left BC to return to Kathmandu.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Dorje, 1/10/65, Chitre, Sotang-6, Solu, Everest X6, Lhotse X1
    Pem Tenji, 22/4/63, Sotang-6, Solu, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X4


expid: BARU10307
peakid: BARU
year: 2010
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Helen Sovdat
approach: Jatrala->Hinku Valley->Mera La->Hinku
bcdate: 2010-10-17
smtdate: 2010-10-23
termdate: 2010-10-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to bad snow conditions
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak (all members and 2 Sherpas on 15 October)
campsites: BC(17/10,5450m),C1(22/10,6100m),C2(23/10,6400m),xxx(23/10,6400m)
accidents: Sovdat suffered from AMS (headache, nausea, combination of symptoms)
agency: Kang Kora Treks
routememo:
  Sovdat, Whyte, Pasang and Ngima went up to 6400m (C2) on 23 Oct. Sovdat got AMS at C2 and also snow conditions were not good. Then the team gave up.

  Little went up to 5700m; he was tired and did not try to go farther up. 

  Thomas climbed up to C1; he was tired and gave up.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Nima Sherpa, 1/11/71 (05/15/2028), Bakachol-9, Khotang,
      Everest (north) in 2005 (30/5/05)
    Nima/Ngima Gyalzen, Ghat, Chaurikharka, Solu, Everest X5, Manaslu in 2009


expid: BARU10308
peakid: BARU
year: 2010
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Robin Beadle
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Baruntse Expedition 2010
ascent1: 110
approach: Lukla->Chutenga->Kote->Tangnag->Khare->Mera->Hinku Valley
bcdate: 2010-10-23
smtdate: 2010-11-04
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2010-11-06
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak (south summit on 20 Oct by all members except Owen)
campsites: BC(23/10,5450m),C1(27/10,6100m),C2(03/11,6450m),Smt(04/11)
achievment: Farrelly probably the youngest on Baruntse summit
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  On 4 Nov Beadle, Dunderdace, Farrelly, Nuru and Nurbu started their summit bid from their C2 at 6450m at 5 am. Beadle and Nurbu arrived to the summit at 11:30 am and by 12:30 pm the rest of the members and Sherpa summited. They spent about 30 minutes on top and descended to C1 where they arrived around 2 pm, and spent the night there. Next day 5 Nov went down to BC. 

  Colson and Owen touched C2 on 28 Oct; they did not want to go further up. 

  Bond climbed up to 6000m below C1 on 27 Oct; he did not like it and went down to BC.

  Hired:
    Nurbu Bhote Lama, 29/5/81 (16/02/2038), Hatiya-1, Makalu, Everest X3
    Nurbu Wangchhu Sherpa, 2/5/2034, Pangboche, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X3
   


expid: BARU10309
peakid: BARU
year: 2010
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Iran
leaders: Mohammad Naderian
sponsor: Iranian Baruntse Expedition
approach: Lukla->Chutenga->Thulekhola->Kote->Tangnag->Khare->Seto Pokhari
bcdate: 2010-10-13
smtdate: 2010-10-24
termdate: 2010-10-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7050m due to broken serac, not possible to cross ice edge
campsites: BC(13-14/10,5450m),C1(16-17/10,6100m),C2(20-21/10,6450m),xxx(24/10,7050m)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Efterhari, Khademi, Matier, Naderian, Rahimi, Ranjbari, Tapchen and Tshering went up to C2 at 6450m and from there they started their summit bid on 24th and reached 7050m. The team realized that due to a broken serac it was not possible for the team to continue their climb farther up and decided to call off the expedition. 

  Jan Bozorgi, Lotfi, Najafipaur, Sajedi Saba, Tatapoor: their high point was C1 (6100m) on 16 or 17 Oct.

  Oxygen used by Nima Gyalzen on 27 Oct from 7050m to BC.

  Fixed rope: 500m between C2 and 7050m

  Sherpas:
    Tapchen Bhote, 24/11/72, Hatiya-3, Makalu, Cho Oyu 13/5/03
    Tsiring Tashi, 7/12/85 (22/08/2042), Khumjung, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1
    Nima Gyalzen, 9/8/85 (25/04/2042), Beding, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X2, 
      Manaslu 30/9/10


expid: BHRS10301
peakid: BHRS
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Renaud Guillaume
sponsor: French on Bhrikuti
ascent1: 6th
bcdate: 2010-10-29
smtdate: 2010-11-01
termdate: 2010-11-04
othersmts: Climbed Chulu Far East on 21 Oct and Lugula (LUGU-103-01) on 2 Nov
campsites: BC(29/10,5000m),Biv1(30/10,5500m),Biv2(31/10,6070m),Smt(01/11)
agency: Churen Himal Treks
routememo:
  The three French climbers with no Sherpas went to Manang and up into Mustang to climb a variety of small and medium-sized peaks which were "trekking peaks," unauthorized peaks, and one on the expedition permitted list, Bhrikuti, for which they had no permit. They started in Manang with Chulu Far East, which all three of them summited on 21 October, a minor unnamed peak nearby; both of these are not on the permitted list. Then they headed for Pisang Peak, but turned away from it when they saw deep snow on the north face and turned instead to an unnamed peak northwest of it.

  Their next target was Bhrikuti Shail in Mustang. They pitched their BC on 29 October at 5000m southeast of the mountain, and bivouacked the next day at 5500m near the south tongue of a glacier and below the rock wall at the bottom of the South Face. On the 31st they moved up to their second bivouac at about 6070m halfway up the face on a slope between two crevasses.

  On 1 November the three members went to the summit of Bhrikuti Shail from the South Face to the SW Ridge, then returned to their second bivouac site.

  On 2 November Guillaume went east from the second bivouac to a 6910m mountain called Lugula, which was very close, summited it and rejoined his teammates, after which the trio descended to the first bivouac site. On 3 November they were in BC, and their climbing was finished. They trekked to Jomsom, and on the 12th flew to Pokhara and Kathmandu.


expid: CHOY10324
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: Argentina
leaders: Felipe Ribaya
sponsor: Cho Oyu Expedition Autumn 2010
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-09-06
smtdate: 2010-09-15
termdate: 2010-09-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to avalanches
campsites: BC(06/09,5000m),ABC(09/09,5700m),C1(12/09,6400m),C2(15/09,7100m),xxx(15/09,7100m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Ribay spent night at C2 on 15 Sept for acclimatization. The weather became bad; he then descended to ABC.


expid: CHOY10325
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Petra Gunkova
sponsor: International Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-09-06
smtdate: 2010-10-01
termdate: 2010-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(06/09,5000m),ABC(09/09,5700m),C1(12/09,6350m),C2(13/09,7100m),C3(01/10,7600m),xxx(01/10,7600m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  The team went up to C3 on 1 Oct and slept there. Due to bad weather, the team descended to C2 on 2 Oct. Next day 3 Oct the team went down to BC.


expid: CHOY10326
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Ragna Krueckels
sponsor: Amical Alpin Cho Oyu Expedition 2010
countries: Austria, Italy, USA
bcdate: 2010-09-03
smtdate: 2010-09-30
termdate: 2010-10-04
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to avalanche danger
campsites: BC(03/09,4900m),ABC(06/09,5700m),C1(12/09,6400m),C2(17/09,7100m),xxx(30/09,7600m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  High point at Yellow Band.

  Four members, Baeck, Hermann, Schlagbauer and Steinbrinker, wanted to try for the summit, so the climbed to C2 on 29 September. Only two, Baeck and Hermann, actually went for the top; they left C2 at 7100m at 10:00 am, but gave up at 2:00 pm, when they reached the Yellow Band at 7600m. They returned to C2 at 5:00 pm and were back in ABC the next day.

  The leader had already declared the climb abandoned on 27 September because of avalanche danger. 

  The last members to leave ABC departed on 4 October, but a number of members had left before that, most of them with various ailments.

  Fei went no higher than ABC because of a lung infection and left the team on 27 September.

  Hasibeter had an ear infection, and an avalanche convinced him should leave, which he did on 29 September.

  Maschits got to C1 only and left with the others on 29 September.

  Pfitscher did not acclimatize and was developing cerebral edema when he left with Fei on the 27th.

  Ploner reached C2, but left on the 29th with an infected tooth.

  Starzl got to C1, but was very weak; he stayed in BC for most of the climbing period and left on the 27th.

  Wimmer was not strong enough to get above C1 and left on the 27th.


expid: CHOY10327
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: SW Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Walter Nones
sponsor: Cho Oyu 2010
bcdate: 2010-09-13
smtdate: 2010-10-02
termdate: 2010-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to fatal fall
campsites: BC(13/09,4900m),ABC(16/09,5700m),C1(24/09,6300m),xxx(02/10,7000m)
accidents: Fatal fall by Nones; Nocker's edema
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at Chinese BC (BC for normal route)
  ABC at normal ABC
  C1  at last of the moraine at bottom of SW Face
  High point on SW Face.

  The team of three Italians and no Sherpas moved up on 26th September from C1, which had been established at the bottom of the SW Face, to deposit gear at 6600m and next day to leave gear at 6680m, then descended to ABC.

  On 1 October, they again left ABC and climbed to C1. On the 2nd, Nones went alone to 7000m and slept there while Nocker retreated to BC with pulmonary edema and Macaluso remained in C1.

  On 3 October, Nones emerged from his tent at 10:00 am into strong wind and perhaps was blown off his feet. (He had not yet put on his crampons). Whatever the cause, he fell, somersaulting 700m down the mountain to 6300m to the right side of C1 and their line of ascent. Macaluso, in C1, did not see Nones fall, but he could see Nones' body, and when he went to it, found it badly smashed.

  Macaluso went down to ABC, which was the ABC for climbers on the normal northwest-side route also, to seek help in recovering Nones' body. Three volunteered; one was the Italian, Ms Tamara Lunger, who was one-woman expedition. They placed it in a plastic bag and brought it down from the area of ice and snow to 6100m from which Tibetans without crampons could carry it to ABC on 4 November.

  Macaluso brought Nones' body on the 5th from ABC to Nylam and next day to Kathmandu. On the 7th it was cremated at the Swayambhunath stupa in Kathmandu.


expid: CHOY10328
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Mike Roberts
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Cho Oyu 2010
countries: Australia, Austria, UK, USA
bcdate: 2010-09-05
smtdate: 2010-09-19
termdate: 2010-10-02
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to no rope fixing higher than C2
campsites: BC(05/09,4900m),ABC(08/09,5300m),C1(14/09,6400m),C1.5(18/09,6700m),C2(19/09,7000m),xxx(19/09,7000m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  C1.5 at 6700m was occupied for one night only, the ngiht of 18 September, by the members who climbed up to C2 the next day. They were on an acclimatization climb.

  No member or Sherpa went above C2 at 7000m, but all members, except two who suffered from chest infections and had left early, and all six climbing Sherpas occupied C2 on 19 September. They returned to ABC on the 20th.

  On the 27th, all started from ABC for a summit bid and arrived in C1 that day. But also on the 27th, avalanching injured a number of Sherpas from several teams while they were fixing rope. Two of this expedition's Sherpas, Dawa Jangbu and Pasang Bhote, were hit at 6800m. Dawa Jangbu was temporarily buried in avalanche material, and Pasang Bhote was blown 100m down the mountain. Neither was actually injured.

  The team returned to ABC on the 28th, and next day all groups' Sherpas announced that there would be no more rope-fixing. Expedition was cancelled.

  Holland and Leonard went no higher than C1 on the 11th because of chest infections and left the team on the 15th. Holland used oxygen for two nights in ABC.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Jangbu, 22/4/73, Pangboche, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X8
    Pasang Bhote, 30/11/73, Chepuwa, Makalu-Barun
    Pemba Chhoti, 25/11/72, Thami, Everest X4
    Sange Dorje, 14/4/78, Khumjung, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X5
    Temba Sherpa, 24/6/68, Khumjung, Everest X5
    Tendi Sherpa, 13/10/68, Sanam, Gudel, Solu, Everest X2, Kangchenjunga X1


expid: CHOY10329
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Berthold Honka
sponsor: Ernst Suttner DAV-Maimz Gedaechtnise Expedition to Cho Oyu
bcdate: 2010-09-03
smtdate: 2010-09-28
termdate: 2010-10-04
termnote: Abandoned at 7050m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(03/09,4900m),ABC(07/09,5680m),C1(14/09,6350m),C2(28/09,7050m),xxx(28/09,7050m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Only two members and one Sherpa, Diel, Piper and Pasang Nuru, on 28 September occupied C2, which had been set up previously, but not slept in, and they actually went there to disassemble the camp and bring it and C1 down off the mountain. The two members climbed 50m above the camp to have a look at the bad snow conditions, reports of which had caused the decision the day before to abandon the attempt to scale Cho Oyu.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Nuru, 17/5/74, Bupsa, Jubing, Solu, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X4, Makalu X1


expid: CHOY10330
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Robert Anderson
sponsor: Jagged Globe Cho Oyu Expedition 2010
countries: Australia, Canada, France, Slovenia, USA
bcdate: 2010-09-07
smtdate: 2010-09-22
termdate: 2010-10-01
termnote: Abandoned at 7150m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(07/09,4900m),ABC(11/09,5700m),C1(17/09,6400m),C2(22/09,7150m),xxx(22/09,7150m)
accidents: Two members edema
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  On 22 September C2 was occupied by 16 members (all members except Albrecht and Sanchez, who had left earlier) and all eight climbing Sherpas. They returned to ABC on the 23rd to wait for good weather following a period of heavy snowfall, but the slopes were loaded with snow, as nine Sherpas learned on the 27th, when an avalanche hit them. The attempt to scale Cho Oyu was abandoned on the 29th.

  Albrecht and Sanchez were the two members who left early. They developed cerebral and pulmonary edema, respectively, and used oxygen before departing on 15 and 16 September, respectively.

  Climbing Sherpas:
    Lila Bahadur Basnet, 31/3/83, Lamabagar-3, Dolakha, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X3
    Mingma Tshering, 26/9/82, Beding, Dolakha, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X3
    Mingma Chhiri, 1/8/70 (17/4/2027), Beding, no 8000ers
    Pema Chhiring/Chhiri, 17/12/83, Beding, Cho Oyu X3, Everest X8, Lhotse X1
    Pema Tharke, 19/5/61, Lamabagar, Dolakha, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X1
    Thundu, 18/2/78, Beding, Cho Oyu X3, Everest X5, Lhotse X1
    Tshering Pemba, 12/12/85, Beding, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X3, Manaslu X1
    Wangdi, 1/3/89 (18/11/2045), Shyama-4, Dolakha, no 8000ers


expid: CHOY10331
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Mike Hamill
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Cho Oyu Expedition 2010
countries: Australia, Canada, Germany, Italy, Switzerland, UK
bcdate: 2010-08-29
smtdate: 2010-09-13
termdate: 2010-09-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7315m due to avalanching
campsites: BC(29/08,4978m),ABC(02/09,5670m),C1(07/09,6300m),C2(12/09,7000m),xxx(13/09,7315m)
agency: Beyul Adventure
routememo:
  The team high point was reached early in their climb. Flock and Kami Rita on an acclimatization climb went up to 7315m on 13 Sept.

  A number of members left the team for various reasons in the first two weeks of September. The remaining seven members, Austin, Bunce, Derby, Hamill, Masleckyj, O'Brien and Wedel, moved from ABC to C1 on 24 September, but they got no higher. There was too much snow above, and they retreated to ABC the same day.

  On the 27th, the team again climbed from ABC to C1 while two of their Sherpas, Dawa Nuru and Mingma Tenzing, were fixing rope much higher up, trying to fix to the summit. But they and seven other Sherpas from different teams were hit by an avalanche, and Mingma Tenzing's knee ligament was injured. The team abandoned their attempt on Cho Oyu and returned to ABC the next day.

  Members who left early:
   
  Bandle was not adjusting quickly to the altitude and ran out of time; he reached 6700m on 8 September.

  Bickes got to C1 on 7 September, but developed dizziness as a result of the altitude.

  Buel, like Bandle, reached 6700m on 8 September, became exhausted and left with Bandle.

  Devereux reached C2 on the 12th, then had to leave because of problems at home.

  Duester got to C1 on the 7th, had a bad cough and quit.

  Flock also reached C2 on the 12th, but now had to get back to work.

  Thomaseth reached C2 on the 12th, then decided he needed to return home.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Nuru/Danuru, 26/10/78, Phortse, Cho Oyu X8, Everest X12, Manaslu X1
    Karma Rita, 21/1/76, Phortse, Cho Oyu X3, Everest X5
    Mingma Tenzing, 1/6/86, Phortse, Cho Oyu X5, Everest X6


expid: CHOY10332
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Jae-Soo
sponsor: 2010 Phu Alpine Club Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 2010-09-17
smtdate: 2010-09-30
termdate: 2010-10-16
termnote: Adandoned at 7200m due to avalanche risk and high winds
campsites: BC(17/09,5700m),C1(30/09,6400m),xxx(30/09,7200m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  First attempt: Kim, Son, Pasang, Lhakpa and Pema attempted on 22 Sept from C1. There was an avalanche at 7700m, then the team went down to ABC. The team went up to C2 [site] on 6 Oct, but due to risk of avalanche the team went down to ABC. 

  The team again went up to C1 from ABC on 9 Oct. Due to strong wind the team went down to ABC. The tent at C1 was broken by strong wind. 

  Finally, the team went up to C1 on 14 Oct again the team forced to go down to ABC due to strong wind and cloud.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Lama Bhote, 17/10/84, Hatiya-1, Makalu VDC, Everest X3, Lhotse X2, 
      Manaslu X1, Makalu X1
    Lhakpa Wangdi Sherpa, 25/11/77 (10/08/2034), Chheskam-2, Solu, no 8000ers
    Pema Tshering, Mathilow, Walung, Makalu-9, 16/06/70, Everest X3, Dhaulagiri X2, 
      Kangch X1, Annapurna X1


expid: CHOY10333
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Max Kausch
sponsor: SummitClimb Cho Oyu Expedition 2010
countries: Finland, Switzerland, USA
bcdate: 2010-09-08
smtdate: 2010-09-27
termdate: 2010-10-03
termnote: Abandoned at 7450m due to bad snow conditions above C3
campsites: BC(08/09,4900m),ABC(09/09,5700m),C1(13/09,6400m),C2(26/09,7140m),xxx(27/09,7450m)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  Kausch climbed to the site for C3 at 7450m on 27 September and saw the conditions above, layers of snow sliding down and therefore unsafe to climb; he decided that the attempt to scale the mountain had to be abandoned.

  To establish personal altitude records, Tomordy and Vetter went up to C3's site on 1 October with Lhakpa Gelu to clear gear from there and C2. All other members went no higher than C2. 

  Three members had already left the expedition:

    Cardinale, who had been the guide for Herbick, left on 26 September 
      after seeing the bad snow conditions.
    Herbick left on 22 September with hemorrhoids.
    Ranger left on 15 September because he had pulmonary edema.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Gelu, 13/4/77, Thumduk, Bung, Solu, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X1, Lhotse X1


expid: CHOY10334
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: Belgium
leaders: Leopold Goven
sponsor: International Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-09-06
smtdate: 2010-09-15
termdate: 2010-09-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to risk of avalanche
campsites: BC(06/09,5000m),ABC(09/09,5700m),C1(12/09,6400m),C2(15/09,7100m),xxx(15/09,7100m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 8 Sept at 5300m.

  Goven spent a night at at C2 for the acclimatization and went down to ABC. Next day, there were two avalanches in different dates that stopped work of fixing ropes by two teams. First one by the Chinese and second one by the Sherpas.

  On 28 Sept the Chinese announced that the climbing in season was over.


expid: CHOY10335
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: Canada
leaders: Mike Nette
sponsor: Makalu Adventure Cho Oyu Expedition
countries: UK, USA
approach: AZhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-09-11
smtdate: 2010-09-23
termdate: 2010-09-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(11/09,4900m),ABC(15/09,5800m),C1(18/09,6300m),C2(23/09,7200m),xxx(23/09,7200m)
agency: Makalu Adventure
routememo:
  Nette suffered from high altitude sickness on 18 Sept at C1. He was brought down to mid-camp on 20 Sept then to CBC. While waiting for jeep he was kept into Gamov bag and given oxygen. Nette arrived Kathmandu on 22 Sept and left on 24 or 25 Sept. 

  Arden had breathing problem at C1 and gave climbing up climbing. 

  Wells and Lhakpa (Lakpa) reached C2 on 23 Sept. Due to bad weather they too gave up further climbing.

  At the beginning Chinese team put up fixed ropes up to C2. There was avalanche, nobody was seriously injured. Then Chinese stop going up and asked expedition Sherpas to do the work of putting fixed ropes. 10 Sherpas took over the job. The Sherpa team fixed the line up to C3. At 8000m there was a big slab avalanche on 27 Sept. Some Sherpas injured, but nobody died. After that no one took initative to put up the fixed line.

  Fixed rope: 150 contributed to TMA.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa (Lakpa Sherpa), 27/4/1965, Makalu-9


expid: CHOY10336
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: Hungary
leaders: Laszlo Makleit
sponsor: International Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-09-06
smtdate: 2010-09-15
termdate: 2010-09-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to avalanche risk
campsites: BC(06/09,5000m),ABC(09/09,5700m),C1(12/09,6400m),C2(15/09,7100m),xxx(15/09,7100m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  During the acclimatization Dr Makleit went up to 7100m. On 15 Sept spent night there. Weather became bad. First the Chinese team put up the fixed line and some of the rope fixing team members were injured by an avalanche. The second team expeditions started putting up fixed line. This team members too hit by avalanche on 21 or 22 Sept. Then the Chinese announced that the climbing season is over on 28 Sept.


expid: CHOY10337
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: Argentina
leaders: Pablo Andreas Pilotta
sponsor: Valladolid - Mar del Plata al Cho Oyu
countries: Spain
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-09-12
smtdate: 2010-10-02
termdate: 2010-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(12/09),ABC(15/09,5700m),C1(21/09,6400m),C2(22/09,6800m),xxx(02/10,7400m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 14 Sept at 5300m

  On 30 Sept Paredes went to C1 from ABC, spent night there. On 2 Oct Paredes climbed up to C2 at 7400m. He turned around due to high wind to ABC. Pilotta went up to mid-camp between C1 and C2 at 6800m, spent night. Next day back to ABC.


expid: CHOY10338
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Javier Gomez
sponsor: Nepalese Himalaya Spring 2010
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-09-12
smtdate: 2010-09-30
termdate: 2010-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(12/09,4950m),ABC(15/09,5700m),C1(21/09,6400m),C2(30/09,6800m),xxx(30/09,6800m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Gomez went up to middle-camp 6800m between C1 and C2. The weather was very bad, high wind and risk of avalanche. Then he decided not to continue his bid for the top.


expid: CHOY10339
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: Argentina
leaders: Pablo Reguera
sponsor: Five Argentinians on Cho Oyu
approach: Kodari->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-09-12
smtdate: 2010-09-30
termdate: 2010-10-06
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to avalanche risk and high wind
campsites: BC(12/09,4950m),ABC(15/09,5700m),C1(20/09,6400m),xxx(30/09,6800m)
accidents: Sanchez got AMS (vomiting at around 6600m while trying to get to C2)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 14/09 at 5300m
  High point at over the serac between C1-C2.

  The team during its acclimatizing went up to approx. 6800m. Arana and Pasang reached high point of 6800m on 30 Sept, but it was not their summit push. Same day the team lost its three tents at C1 due to strong wind. 

  Galtier and Nasiff went up to C1.

  Reguera's high point was below the serac around 6600m. 

  Sanchez went up to 6600m got AMS and turned around.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Tshering, aka Ang Pasang, 27/12/73, Thamiteng, Everest X2, Lhotse X1, 
      Cho Oyu X1, K2 X1


expid: DHA110301
peakid: DHA1
year: 2010
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Ryushi Hiraoka
sponsor: Nippuro Dhaulagiri I Expedition
bcdate: 2010-09-12
smtdate: 2010-09-28
termdate: 2010-09-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to fatal avalanche
campsites: BC(12/09,4700m),BC(20/09,4700m),C1(25/09,5400) C2(27/09,6500m),xxx(28/09,5000m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 below NE Col
  C2 on NE Ridge by Sherpas
  High point by Sherpas on NE Ridge,

  This group was an independent team acting to some extent in support of Osamu Tanabe's Dhaulagiri I team, but composed of less experienced climbers receiving some guidance from Tanabe and his teammates.

  The two teams members arrived at BC on the same day, 20 September, but the six climbing Sherpas with Hiraoka's group arrived there eight days earlier to manage setting up camp and start fixing rope (Tanabe had no Sherpas with him).

  On 28 September, the three Sherpas (Da Tendi, Dawa Chhiri and Pasang Gelu) were fixing rope and at 10:00 am had gotten to 6700m when they were hit by an avalanche, which went on to hit Tanabe's group below. The Sherpas were carried down 2100m. Pasang Gelu disappeared; his body was not found. Da Tendi's arm was injured, and Dawa Chhiri was hit in the groin by an ice block in the avalanche material and his back was painful. The two survivors managed to return to BC at 9:00 and 10:00 pm.

  The Japanese members were on the NE Col at 5800m on their way way to C2 when at 10:02 am they were struck by the wind created by the avalanche and by snow being blown strongly by the wind. They were blown down the mountain 10 meters. Hiraoka's knee was hit and was painful to walk on, but despite his pain, he climbed up to 6600m to rescue the injured Sherpas. For the other two Isoda and Kudo, the result was painful backs, and they returned to BC at 5:00 pm.

  On the next day, the 29th, a helicopter landed at Dhaulagiri's low BC and took Kudo, Isoda and Dawa Chhiri to Kathmandu. On 1 October, having abandoned their fruitless search for Pasang Gelu, Hiraoka and Da Tendi also flew to Kathmandu by helicopter.

  Sherpas:
    Da Tendi, (15/2/2038), Lokhim-9, Solu, no 8000ers
    Dawa Chhiri, (8/11/2023), Lokhim-9, Solu, several 8000ers
    Pasang Gelu, 28/11/63 (7/8/2020), Dhimbul, Gudel-9, Solu, Cho Oyu X1, 
      Dhaulagiri I, Everest X5


expid: DHA110302
peakid: DHA1
year: 2010
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Osamu Tanabe
sponsor: Nippuro Dhaulagiri I Expedition
bcdate: 2010-09-20
smtdate: 2010-09-28
termdate: 2010-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 5400m due to fatal avalanche
campsites: BC(20/09,4700m),C1(22/09,5400m),xxx(28/09,5400m)
accidents: Fatal avalanche
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 below North Col (never slept in)
  High point at C1 site.

  This team of four Japanese, no Sherpas, arrived at BC on 20 September. The site for C1 at 5400m, not far below the NE Col, was visited several times between the 22nd and the 27th to dump gear, but was never slept in.

  On the 28th, the four members set out at 6:00 am from BC to occupy C1. At 10:00 am an avalanche struck. They were slightly scattered; Yamamoto was at C1 (5400m) and Honda 200m directly below him; Tanabe and Shimada to the right of those two, Tanabe at 5300m and Shimada at 5150m, according to the only survivor, Shimada.

  When the avalanche and the fierce wind it created was almost upon them, Tanabe radioed to Shimada, "Look up, avalanche" and then was buried by it. Shimada was carrying a pair of skis on his back, and the wind pushed him with his skis 200m into soft snow. He got a mouthful of snow but was uninjured. Despite the pain in in his right shoulder, neck, ribs on his right side and right ankle, he took snow bars and used them and his skis to probe and dig for his three teammates, but he found none of them and returned alone to BC at 6:00 pm, when it was getting dark.

  During the next two days, Shimada, Hiraoka, leader of the other Japanese team, and five Sherpas searched for the three bodies in hard snow (the Sherpas were equipped with snow saws). They found nothing. On 9 October, Hiraoka and the five Sherpas returned to BC with two expert searchers who brought special equipment from Japan, and in mid-October Honda's body was discovered 50m under the snow. It was brought to Kathmandu, where an autopsy gave asphyxiation as the probable cause of death, and it was cremated at Swayambhunath stupa on the city's edge.


expid: DING10401
peakid: DING
year: 2010
route1: N Face via NE of Chuli Glacier
nation: UK
leaders: Andrew Parkin
sponsor: Dingjung Ri Expedition
approach: Phakding->Namche->Thami->Ayer
bcdate: 2010-12-25
smtdate: 2011-01-17
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2011-01-21
campsites: BC(25/12,4600m),ABC(30/12,5300m),Biv1(15/01,5700m),Biv2(16/01,6050m),Smt(17/01)
achievment: 1st ascent of North Face
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  at Chuli
  ABC before Chuli Glacier ice fall, looking at North Face of Singkar
  Biv 1 on North Face
  Biv 2 on North Face.

  Parkin, in his solo alpine style, set up his ABC on 30 or 31 January at 5300m. There was a big snowstorm on 1 and 2 January. The storm left lots of snow all over. The condition was not good, then he went down to BC and waited for snow to settle down.

  Approach to the base of the mountain: walk up 5400m along the slope on left side of the Chuli glacier icefall then cross the icefall. Parkin had two bivouacs one at about 5700m and the another one about 6050m. His summit push started at around 9 am on 17 January from the second Biv. He got to the top around 2:30 pm. He stayed on summit for about 10 minutes and descended to first Biv where he spent the night. 

  Next day he went down to ABC and the following day to BC.

  Climbing route: 85-degree icefall, about 800m vertical and between 1200-1400m rock face. Snow condition of the route mostly was neve. It was very cold and windy. Parkin said that it was a wild condition everywhere. There were lots of avalanches.

  At the beginning Parkin was confused about the peak and could not identify Dinjung Ri. The two maps which he had with him show different things. Then he asked local villagers and one of them showed him a peak as Dingjung Ri. Parkin verified the peak in his maps, the altitude given in one of the maps was pretty close to the altitude of Dinjung Ri. So, Parkin decided to climb it. The altitude of the peak which Parkin climbed is 6263m according to his altimeter. In the Ministry's list altitude of Dingjung Ri is 6249m.


expid: EVER10301
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Eric Larsen
sponsor: Save the Poles Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2010-09-12
smtdate: 2010-10-15
smttime: 1215
termdate: 2010-10-17
campsites: BC(12/09,5350m),C1(18/09,6070m),C2(27/09,6450m),C3(29/09,7140m),C4(14/10,7900m),Smt(15/10)
agency: Himalayan Trailblazer
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C4 at South Col.

  After his establishment of C1 on 18 September, there was a week of snowfall that dumped a lot of snow between C1 and the site for C2 in the Western Cwm, but much of it was blown away, leaving the route all the way to C3 on the West Face of Lhotse mostly covered by snow in good condition for climbing.

  Larsen left C4 on the South Col for the summit at midnight of 14/15 October, while his five Sherpas had left C4 at 6:00 pm on the 14th and fixed rope from C4 to 100m below the top. (Rope was not fixed above the Hillary Step, where are some rock outcrops and a lot of snow. They had also fixed from C3 to C4).

  Larsen caught up with the Sherpas on the 15th 250m above the Balcony and then follewed them as they fixed the route, waiting and then climbing behind them as they moved up. All six of them arrived at the summit together at 12:15 pm.

  When the team had arrived at the South Col from C3, there was strong wind, but after sunrise on the 15th it died down to about 15 knots (40 Km/hr) on the summit. However at about 11:00 am on summit day, clouds rolled in, and there was intermittent cloud cover from the Col to the top and all the back way down to C4 that day and to BC, where they arrived the next day.

  They had returned to C4 at 4:30 pm, left C4 on the 16th at 7:00 am, and were back in BC at 9:00 pm. Larsen wanted to stop for the night in C2, but the Sherpas insisted on continuing onto BC.

  Larsen used supplemental oxygen from C3 to and in C4 to the top and down to and in C4. The five Sherpas used it from C4 to the summit to C4. Two of them, Pasang Temba and Dawa Gyalzen, had also used it between C3 and C4 because they were carrying heavy loads.

  Fixed rope: 4000m from C2 to top.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Dawa Gyalzen Sherpa, 21/8/87, Chaurikharka, Solu, Everest 25/5/10
    Nima Dorje Tamang, 8/1/80, Bakachol-9, Khotang
    Pasang Dawa Sherpa, 25/5/84, Tate, Chaurikharka-7, Solu
    Pasang Temba Sherpa, 27/10/86, Lukla, Solu, Everest 2/5/10
    Tshering Dorje Sherpa, 3/3/89, Beding, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2


expid: EVER10302
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: N Face (to 6000m)
nation: Italy
leaders: Edmond Joyeusaz
sponsor: Italian Everest Expedition 2010
bcdate: 2010-09-12
smtdate: 2010-09-12
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to dangerous avalanching
othersmts: Climbed two nameless peaks near Everest
campsites: BC(12/09,5500m),Biv1(14/09,6000m),xxx
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Junctions of Rongbuk Glaciers
  Biv1 on Rongbuk Glacier at bottom of Changtse West Ridge.

  The three-member team without Sherpas established BC on 12 September at the junction of the Rongbuk and East Rongbuk Glaciers. Their plan was to ski down the Hornbein Couloir on the North Face. They made a camp on the 14th on the Rongbuk Glacier at the bottom of Changtse's West Ridge, from which they had a good view of the face. As they obvserved conditions on the face, which was then avalanching all across the mountain westward from the Great Couloir.

  They abandoned the idea of climbing the North Face and decided to go the normal North Col route instead. They tried to rush the Col, and on their way there on 21 September at 6400m, Marra developed cerebral edema. They all returned to BC on 22 September and put Marra on oxygen. The next day he was driven to Nyalam enroute to Kathmandu.

  The remaining two, Joyeusaz and Civra, now decided to climb a nameless 6535m mountain just north of Mt. Lingtren, which is north-northeast of Pumori on the border with Nepal. They summited the mountain in one day, 30 September, via its North Ridge to East Face and skied down their ascent route from 40 meters below the top.

  They returned to BC on 1 October. Four days later they moved up the East Rongbuk Glacier and camped at 6088m for a 6910m summit on the North-South Ridge between Changzheng (6977m) and Changtse. Their camp was east of the peak, and from here on the 6th Civra climbed the East Face alone. He stopped at 6800m on this steep (60-degree) snow face and skied down it to the bottom of the face. Both members then returned to BC that day.

  Their climbing was now over. They rested in BC on the 7th and left on the 8th for Nyalam.


expid: EVER10303
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: N Face (to 6300m)
route2: N Col-NE Ridge (to 5800m)
nation: Spain
leaders: Alberto Zerain
sponsor: Everest 2010 Hornbein Couloir
bcdate: 2010-08-16
termdate: 2010-11-01
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to bad snow conditions
othersmts: Attempted Changtse (to 7300m)
campsites: BC(16/08,5200m),series of bivs
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  The expedition's plan was for Zerain to make a solo ascent of the North Face of Everest via the Hornbein Couloir with Arrieta accompanying him on his accimatization climb to 8000m on the normal North Col route. (The other two members would remain in BC.). Then Zerain would go up the face to the top alone: on the first day he would climb to 8000m at the bottom of the couloir, rest there for a few hours, and very early the next morning go to the summit. At the summit, he would decide whether to descend the line he had just ascended or go down the North Col route. The whole climb would take two to four days.

  It didn't work out like that. The expedition (with no Sherpas) made their first base at 5200m  at the so called Chinese BC (CBC) site for the North Col route on 16 August, and four days later from the East Rongbuk Glacier they made an intermediate camp at 5800m, 18 km from CBC horizontally.

  Before attempting any route on Everest, Zerain and Arrieta acclimatized by climbing Changtse (7560m), which is sometimes called Everest North and is indeed north of the great mountain. They approached it from their intermediate camp and made two bivouacs at 5600m on 27 August on the Rongbuk Glacier and 6000m at the foot of the East Ridge. They climbed the ridge up to 7300m on 1 September.

  Next they moved to the bottom of Everest's North Face. AFter ferrying loads from Changtse for eight days during daily snowfall, on 14 September they pitched their BC for the North Face at 6200m, one hour's walk from the face. But there was a lot of snow on the mountain, and they decided to go elsewhere to do a bit more climbing.

  They went next to Changzheng, which is about 7000m high southwest of Changtse on a ridge between them. Zerain and Arrieta reached 6500m on the West Ridge on 17 September but strong wind and avalanching preventing their summiting.

  They now went back and forth between intermediate camp and some small unnamed peaks in the area which they climbed. Finally they returned to their North Face BC for an attempt to scale the face. But Zerain never got into the Japanese Couloir, which is below the Hornbein and leads into it. Large avalanches swept the face from west of the Japanese Couloir, and when Zerain and Arrieta were at the bottom of this couloir (at approximately 6300m) on 26 September, two avalanches swept them 100 meters lower and covered them. They were uninjured, but convinced they should abandon the face.

  They returned to their intermediate camp so that on the 28th Zerain could attempt Everest by the standard North Col. But crevasses made it too dangerous for him to move alone. He decide that his bid to climb Everest was finished. The team's high point via the North Col route was 7300m. 

  The team left CBC on 1 November to return to Kathmandu.


expid: GANC10301
peakid: GANC
year: 2010
route1: W Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Graham Desroy
sponsor: Llanberis Expedition to the West Ridge of Ganchempo
bcdate: 2010-10-20
smtdate: 2010-10-26
termdate: 2010-10-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to lack of time
campsites: BC(20/10,4600m),High Camp(22/10,5150m),C1(24/10,5700m),xxx(26/10,6100m)
agency: Loben Expeditions
routememo:
  C1 on West Ridge
  High point at West Summit.

  The team approached Ganchempo via the Langtang Khola eastward to Kyanjin Kharka, where they camped for nights three while they climed two small mountains in the immediate area: Kyanjin Ri, on 18 October and Tsergi the next day. On the 20th they moved to BC at 4600m on bare moraine which formerly was under glacier at the mouth of the Nyangsa Chu rivulet. 

  On the 21st, the two Britons stayed in BC while their one Sherpa, Pemba Chhuti, and a 28-29 year old local man from Langtang village, Sing Tamang, went up to a completely hidden couloir which is crucial for access to the West Ridge. Tamang, a former cow-herd turned porter, knew where to find the couloir from his cow-herding days. Pemba Chhuti pitched a camp which he called high tent just below the entrance to this couloir at 5150m and rejoined the members in BC that day.

  Tamang, no climber, returned to his village on the 22nd while Desroy, Smith and Pemba Chhuti occupied occupied high camp. On the 23rd, Pemba Chhuti put a tent at the site for their C1 on the West Ridge at 5700m while the members acclimatized by climbing above high camp: Desroy went up to 5360m, Smith to 5500m.

  The three men occupied C1 on the 24th. The next day, the 25th, Pemba Chhuti remained in C1 while Desroy and Smith made a bid for the summit. But the snow looked potentially unstable; they stopped at 5970m and returned to C1 very slowly because of the uncertain snow conditions.

  However on 26 Oct the members went up again. They left C1 at 6:45 am (it was too cold to move earlier) and at 3:15 pm they stood on the West Summit. Now it was too late in the day to continue along the West Ridge to the main summit, one kilometer away. In any case, they would have needed another tent for another camp, more food and more time. They got back to C1 at 7:00 pm in the dark.

  The three men returned to BC on the 27th.

  Desroy and Smith believe this route had been climbed before: they found about 10 meters of old rope frozen in ice on the West Ridge 200m below the West Summit.

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Chhuti/Chhoti, 21/12/1973, Yaphu, Makalu-Barun, Everest X4


expid: GYAJ10301
peakid: GYAJ
year: 2010
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Sebastien Fragniere
sponsor: Guide Montagne Gyajikang 2010
approach: Bhulbhule->Jagat->Dharapani->Koto->Meta->Kyong->Phu
bcdate: 2010-10-25
smtdate: 2010-10-29
termdate: 2010-11-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to bad weather and sickness
campsites: BC(25/10,4700m),ABC(28/10,5300m),C1(30/10,5700m),xxx(29/10,6000m)
accidents: Boghossian couple and Vonlanthen got sick
agency: Mountain Sun Valley Treks
routememo:
  The team could not do much climbing due to illness of three members. 

  Jean-Charles Boghossian got altitude sickness and stomach problem at BC. Isabelle Boghossian too got stomach problem. Both left BC on 28 Oct They expected to be in Kathmandu on 12 Nov and probably leave on 13 Nov.

  Fragniere and Vonlanthen went up to C1 on 30 Oct. 

  Vonlanthen most of the time suffered from giardia. He gave up climbing on 30 Oct. 

  Leader Fragniere went up to 6000m on 29 Oct to bring down climbing gear. 

  From the afternoon of 3 Oct until morning of 1 Nov there was snowfall and storm. When they left BC the weather started getting better.


expid: HIML10304
peakid: HIML
year: 2010
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Dick Lust
sponsor: Dutch Himlung 2010
approach: Via Phugaon
bcdate: 2010-10-06
smtdate: 2010-10-18
termdate: 2010-10-22
termnote: Abandonded at 7000m due to too late in the day
campsites: BC(06/10,4800m),C1(10/10,5600m),C2(11/10,6200m),C3(17/10,6400m),xxx(18/10,7000m)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  Little north of Pangrima Glacier west of peak
  C1 on other glacier north of Pangrima
  C2 on a ridge west of mountain rock island
  C3 on a ridge west of mountain 
  High point on NW Ridge.

  Two days after the team established BC on 6 October, Van Tilberg went up to 5500m with the intention of going to the site for C1 at 5600m, but he was worried about the job he had just lost and other personal problems, and decided to go home immediately.

  The left two members Lommers and Lust. With their two Sherpas, Dawa and Pasang, they left C3 for the top on 18 October at 3:00 am. They reached 7000m on the NW Ridge at 3 pm, one hour's climb from the summit. They had been slow getting there because there was knee-deep snow, and although they were climbing with an Austrian team, the Austrians let the Dutch and their Sherpas do the hard work of breaking trail. It was now too late to continue to the top, and the two members were exhausted. They decided to turn back and returned to C3 well after dark, at 9:00 pm.

  Now Lust was having trouble with his right knee, which collapsed several times while he was going down: descending jolts the knee hard more than ascending.

  The next day, the 19th, they reached C1 and on the 20th returned to BC.

  They fixed a total of 800m of rope. 600m were used on the large "rock island" that was west of the mountain; the remaining rope was fixed higher up.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Sherpa, 28/5/64 (15/2/2021), Garma-5, Solu
    Pasang Sherpa, 24/4/81 (10/1/2038), Ramechap, Gudel-9, Solu, Lhotse X2, 
      Dhaulagiri I X1


expid: HIML10301
peakid: HIML
year: 2010
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Reinhart Fetz
sponsor: Laendle Himlung Expedition
ascent1: 35th
bcdate: 2010-10-10
smtdate: 2010-10-18
smttime: 1645
termdate: 2010-10-21
campsites: BC(10/10,4800m),C1(12/10,5600m),C2(16/10,6200m),C3(17/10,6400m),Smt(18/10)
accidents: Schmelzenbach's frostbitten toes
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  The four Austrian members left Kathmandu at different times because Fitz and Schmelzenbach first made a trek in the region. They all met at the village of Koto, south-southwest of their mountain, on 6 October and continued together to BC.

  They arrived at BC four days after the Dutch led by Dick Lust and pitched all their camps at the same places as the Dutch had put theirs: BC was a little north of the Pangrima Glacier, C1 on another glacier north of Pangrima glacier, C2 on a ridge west of Himlung on a large rock formation which they called "rock island" and C3 on the same "rock island."

  The four members and two Sherpas began their summit push from BC on 15 October and slept in C1; they moved to C2 on the 16th, and pitched their C3 on the 17th.

  At 3:00 am on 18 October they started up from C3 and climbed with the Dutch falling an hour behind them. The weather was clear with a half moon shining on them, and they climbed in fresh soft deep snow. But it was only Fetz [and Fitz] and Nurbu Tshering who actually reached the summit, where they arrived between 4:30 and 5:00 pm. They were back in C3 at about 11:00 pm-12:00 midnight.

  Schmelzenbach ran out of energy on the "rock island" at about 7:00 or 8:00 am, so he and Pemba turned around and went back to C3 at 9:00 am.

  Partel got to 7000m at 3:00 pm; by now he was very tired, and he felt that 3:00 pm was too late to go to the top. He was turned around there with the Dutch climbers.

  On the 19th all were in C1 and next day in BC. Schmelzenbach's toes had become slightly frostbitten, and their condition was made worse during his descent from C3. He and Fetz left BC on the 21st to fly by helicopter directly to Kathmandu, while Fitz and Partel returned by trekking out. (Fetz developed pneumonia in Kathmandu and was admitted to a clinic for a couple of day's care).


expid: HIML10303
peakid: HIML
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Lutz Feldmann
sponsor: Diamir Himlung Expedition 2010
ascent1: 37th
countries: Austria
approach: Bhulbhule->Jagat->Dharapani->Koto->Meta->Tiang->Phu
bcdate: 2010-10-16
smtdate: 2010-10-29
smttime: 1135
termdate: 2010-11-01
campsites: BC(16/10,4830m),C1(18/10,5630m),C2(22/10,6140m),C3(28/10,6400m),Smt(29/10)
agency: Multi Adventure
routememo:
  Bruemmer, Hoelzel, Korte, Masczyk, Moll, Mauch, Schoenbacher, Teibinger, Lila Bahadur Tamang and Jamba Sherpa started their summit bid from C3 at 5:30 am on 29 Oct. Masczyk turned around from around 6800m as he was tired.

  Schoenbacher and Lila reached summit at 11:35 am; rest of the members Hoelzel, Korte, Moll Mauch, Teibinger and Jamba Sherpa followed them. Last one to reach to the top was Bruemmer who reached at 2 pm. Each of them stayed on the top for about 30 minutes. By 5 pm everybody was back to C3. Next day all members went down to BC.

  Feldmann went up to C1 on 18 and 29 Oct, suffered from cough and chest pain. He did not try for the summit.

  Henning went up to C1 on 29 Oct; he was not fit technically to go further up. 

  Prosi went up to C2 on 22 Oct; he did not like to spend more nights in high camps. 

  Schempp went up to C2 on 28 Oct; he had stomach problem and vomiting.

  Sherpas:
    Jamba Sherpa, 18/5/79, Tapting-7, Solu, no 8000ers
    Lila Bahadur Tamang, 15/10/66, Khimrang, Sardikhola-5, Kaski, Cho Oyu X1, 
      Everest X2, Makalu X1


expid: HONG10301
peakid: HONG
year: 2010
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Goetz Wiegand
sponsor: Rucksachsen Jubilee Expedition Hongde 2010
approach: Myagdi Khola, N to Chhumbarang Glac. Dhaula BC, French Pass, NNE to BC
bcdate: 2010-10-26
smtdate: 2010-10-30
termdate: 2010-11-02
termnote: Abandoned at 5560m due to bad weather and lack of time
campsites: BC(26/10,4820m),C1(30/10,5560m),xxx(30/10,5560m)
agency: Multi Adventure
routememo:
  The team was plagued by bad weather from 16 October, the day they arrived in Kathmandu to go to the mountain, when it was raining. So it was to be expected that when they reached French Pass on their approach march there was deep snow. They reached BC on the 26th, but they lost several days of climbing time waiting there until the 30th for the porters to arrive with their gear.

  They immediately set out to climb the mountain. All members except Lustermann arrived at C1 on the 30th. But that night there was heavy snowfall. They returned to BC on 31st and abandoned the climb. They had now run out of time.

  They left BC on 2 November to trek out by a route leading eastward to Kagbeni, but they retreated to BC on the 3rd because the trail across Dhampus Pass was impassable. They left via the main route to Marpha on the Kali Gandaki River.

  Lustermann did not participate in the climb to C1 because of serious pulmonary edema, which she had begun to develop on the trek to BC at Dhaulagiri BC; she arrived at Hongda BC a day after the rest of the team after bivouacking on the way on the 26th. She became very sick after crossing French Pass on the 27th and was evacuated from BC to Kathmandu on the 29th.


expid: JANK10301
peakid: JANK
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Tsugio Iwai
sponsor: 2010 Aoyamagakuin University Outlier (Janak Chuli) Expedition
approach: Ghunsa Khola->Lhonak
bcdate: 2010-09-29
smtdate: 2010-10-12
termdate: 2010-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6710m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(29/09,5200m),C1(06/10,5400m),C2(09/10,5850m),xxx(12/10,6710m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at Broken Glacier north side
  C1 on moraine left side of Broken Glacier
  C2 on Glacier due south of peak.

  The team established their BC on 29 September at 5200m on the north side of Broken Glacier, and on 2 October the leader, Tsugio Iwai, went up to 5500m to have a look at the mountain.

  On the 3rd, Iwai, who was 63 yrs old, had a heart problem, used oxygen on his return to BC and left the expedition on the 3rd. With him went a very sick (high fever) Sherpa who had done no climbing.

  A summit bid was made by the three remaining members and their climbing "Sherpas," Dan Kumar, Kitap Singh and Tul Bahadur. On 11 October the "Sherpas" left C1, joined the members in C2 and the six men started up from C2 at 5:30 am.

  Murakami and Dan Kumar reached 6700m at 2:30 pm. They planned to bivouac at 6800m on the SW Ridge. The weather was excellent, but they were stopped by steep deep soft snow in which it wasn't possible for crampons or ice axes to take hold. So they bivouacked 100m lower.

  Tsuchda stayed with Nagata, who was 66 yrs old and not strong, and had to struggle to climb over rocks. He was very slow, but obsessed with the idea of going to the top. He became confused. There was no place for all of them to bivouac in this area, and two "Sherpas," Tul Bahadur and Kitap Singh, who wanted to sleep in a camp, not a bivouac anyway, were descending and met Nagata and Tsuchda. The two "Sherpas" and two Japanese went down in a group with Kitap Singh 60m behind the others.

  Nagata became almost unable to walk and was close to collapsing, but with the help of Tul Bahadur got to C2 at 10:00 pm. (The others had reached the camp at 8:45 pm). Tsuchda made juice, easily swallowed food, tea and coffee for him. He refused to take oxygen through a mask, so Tsuchda filled the tent with the entire contents of the oxygen cylinder. Nagata protested, but he stayed in C2 that night.

  Meanwhile, Murakami and Dan Kumar had spent the night in a crevasse at 6700m. The next morning it was foggy, and it was not until 9:00 am that Tul Bahadur and Kitap Sing could go up from C2 and join them at their bivouac. But the soft snow defeated them all: even their feet could not take hold in it.

  They tried several different lines up and managed to climb ten meters higher than the crevasse at 10:24 am. Then gave up. They descended to C2. Everyone returned to C1 on the 13th and to BC the next day.

  "Sherpas":
    Dan Kumar Tamang, 4/12/85 (19/8/2042), Deusa-6, Solu, no 8000ers
    Kitap Singh Tamang, 30/8/76 (14/5/2033), Deusa-6, Solu, no 8000ers
    Tul Bahadur Tamang, 3/10/66, Deusa vdc, Solu, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2, 
      Dhaulagiri I X1, Manaslu X1


expid: KAGA10301
peakid: KAGA
year: 2010
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Steffen Klassert
sponsor: Dolpo Tripple Expedition to Norbu Kang
ascent1: 2nd
approach: (see route notes)
bcdate: 2010-10-12
smtdate: 2010-10-15
smttime: 1210
termdate: 2010-10-16
othersmts: Climbed Norbu Kang (NORB-103-01); attempted Kagmara I (KAG1-103-01)
campsites: BC(12/10,4500m),C1(14/10,4900m),Smt(15/10)
achievment: 1st German ascent
agency: Adventure Geo Treks
primid: NORB10301
routememo:
  Approach: Norbu Kang BC, across Bagala Khola Pass->Chhotai Khola->SW side of Rara Lake 

  All members started their summit push from C1 at 5:15 am. Beierlein arrived to the top at 12:10 pm. Last one Bogatin reached summit at 12:45 pm and in between rest of the members. The summiters stayed on summit for 15 minutes. The team returned to C1 at 4 pm and continued to BC where members reached between 6:30-7 pm. Clear weather at the beginning, no wind around 9 am, north side was clear, south side cloudy. Later part of the day was bit cloudy, windy.

  Route: from Rara Lake the team climbed southwest; reached edge of glacier, cross glacier started steep climb, then to SE Ridge.


expid: KYAS10301
peakid: KYAS
year: 2010
route1: S Pillar
nation: UK
leaders: Andy Houseman
sponsor: British Kyshar Expedition
approach: Lukla east to Hinku Khola south to Tangnag
bcdate: 2010-10-22
smtdate: 2010-11-04
termdate: 2010-11-05
termnote: Abandoned at 5800 due to rock difficulty for one member
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak (Houseman only)
campsites: BC(22/10,4200m),Biv(03/11,5500m),xxx(04/11,5800m)
agency: Loben Expeditions
routememo:
  BC at Tangnag Lodge
  Biv1 on rock buttress on south side.

  The two Britons established their base on 22 October at lodge in the village of Tangnag for their climb of Kyashar, which is south of Kangtega; but before attacking their mountain, they went to Mera Peak for acclimatization. Houseman summited it on 28 October while Stone stopped at their high camps because of a headache.

  They were back in BC on the 29th. They ewre delayed by snowfall; they started their climb of Kyashar on 3 November up a rock buttress on the south side of their mountain. (Kyashar's name is not shown on various maps, but it is point 6769m on the NEPA trekking map; the Nepalese government gives it an altitude of 6770m). They bivoaucked that night at 5500m on a hanging glacier at the top of the buttress.

  On 4 November, they moved up to the top of the glacier at 5700m and then to the bottom of the South Pillar, the feature they intended to scale. They had reached 5800m when Stone declared that he didn't want to continue the climb: this was his first time in the Himalaya, and he was uncomfortable with the scale of these mountains; he also appeared to be developing an altitude problem.

  Houseman doesn't like climbing alone, so they descended to BC the same day and left for Kathmandu on the 5th.


expid: LANG10302
peakid: LANG
year: 2010
route1: S Face
nation: Iran
leaders: Arash Ghiasian
sponsor: Lorestan Langtang Lirung
ascent1: 16th
bcdate: 2010-10-28
smtdate: 2010-11-04
smttime: 1345
termdate: 2010-11-07
campsites: BC(28/10,4300m),ABC(30/10,4800m),C1(02/11,5700m),C3(03/11,6700m,Smt(04/11)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Ghiasian, Hoseini, Nematolahi, Nematolahi, Yaramadi and Chhang Dawa Sherpa started from the top camp at 11 pm on 3 Nov. The team reached the summit at 1:45 pm on 4 Nov. The team stayed on summit for about 20 minutes, descended to the top camp around 4 pm and continued to C1 where they reached at around 7 pm. Next day 5 Nov. All descended to BC.

  Sherpa:
    Chhang Dawa, 30/7/82 (15/04/2039), Makalu-9, Upper Walung, Nurbu Chaur,
      Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1, Lhotse X1, Makalu X1


expid: LHOT10301
peakid: LHOT
year: 2010
route1: W Face
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Leopold Sulovsky
sponsor: Czech Lhotse Expedition
bcdate: 2010-09-12
smtdate: 2010-10-09
termdate: 2010-10-12
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to bad weather, slow progress and lack of time
campsites: BC(12/09,5350m),C1(18/09,6000m),C2(25/09,6400m),C3(27/09,7200m),C4(08/10,7600m),xxx(09/10,8100m)
agency: Langtang Ri Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on West Face
  C4 at Yellow Band, where Everest & Lhotse routes diverge
  High point on West Face.

  The team struggled to get to C1 because of bad weather. On 17 September, when they were trying to go up from BC to establish C1 at the top of the Khumbu Icefall, they entered the Icefall but soon could see nothing more than five or ten meters away from them. They couldn't see the fixed ropes. They couldn't move forward, couldn't retreat. They were stuck at 5800m, 200 meters below the top, and had to spend the night there. The next day they got to C1, and on the following day they returned to BC.

  They started up again after a period of bad weather. On 6 October, they moved from BC to C2. The next day they made temporary C4 at 7400m because they couldn't reach the normal C4 site with the heavy loads they were carrying (they had no Sherpas with them). They got there on the 8th and made C4 at 7600m at the Yellow Band where the climbing route to Lhotse's summit diverges from the route for the Everest.

  The five Czechs made their bid for the summit at midnight of the 8th/9th. But by 1:30 am on the 9th, they had gained only 100 meters towards the top. They now decided to retreat to C1, where they arrived at 4:30 pm that evening.

  They were back in BC on the 10th. They had little time left for the climb; they abandoned their attempt to scale Lhotse.


expid: LHOT10302
peakid: LHOT
year: 2010
route1: W Face
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Marty Schmidt
sponsor: Marty Schmidt (MSIG) Lhotse Expedition
countries: USA
bcdate: 2010-10-05
smtdate: 2010-10-21
termdate: 2010-10-23
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to strong wind
othersmts: Climbed Ama Dablam (AMAD-103-12) on 2 Nov by Marty Schmidt
campsites: BC(15/10,5850m),Biv1(18/10,6000m),Biv2(19/10,6400m),Biv3(20/10,7200m),xxx(21/10,7500m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Schmidt climbed two mountains: Lhotse first and Ama Dablam afterwards. The plan was for Schmidt and his client Lee Nobmann to go to Lhotse/Everest BC together. While Schmidt climbed Lhotse, Nobmann would remain at BC but take side trips to Kalapattar and perhaps elsewhere not far from BC. And he did not go to Gorak Shep and twice to Kalapattar to get some acclimatization for his climb of Ama Dablam with Schmidt.

  Meanwhile Schmidt went to the normal West Face route on Lhotse alone and quickly made his way up the mountain with three bivouacs on the way. He left the highest one at 7200m at 11:00 pm on the 20th, and at 2:00 am on 21 October he reached 7500m (below the Yellow Band). Then 120 Km/hr wind hit him. He turned around and was back in his highest bivouac at 4:00 pm. The weather forecast said strong winds would continued for the next two or three days. He had obligations to his client, so on the 21st he went down all the way to BC.

  Nobmann told Schmidt that during his climbs on Kalapattar he realized he was not in good enough condition because of being overweight to attempt Ama Dablam at that time. So instead of climbing the mountain, he and Schmidt trekked to Pheriche, where a helicopter picked them up and flew them to Kathmandu on the 24th. Nobmann had done no serious climbing.

  While Schmidt was accompanying Nobmann to the airport on the 27th for Nobmann's flight home, his "heart, body, mind and spirit called (him) to head out to climb Ama Dablam solo in the next few days." So he flew back to Lukla on the 28th, trekked to Ama Dablam BC in one day, and on the 31st climbed from BC to the site of C2, where he bivouacked at 6000m.

  On 2 November he went for the top. He left his 6000m bivouac at 7 am on a "beautiful day" and was on the summit at 1:00 pm. He had to slow down at the final 70 meters to the top to join with another team's Sherpa to fix rope on the whole last section.

  He then descended to BC, where he arrived at 9 pm. On 3 November, he left BC and trekked back to Lukla. He flew to Kathmandu the next day.

  He had done the roundtrip from Kathmandu to Ama Dablam's summit to Kathmandu in seven days.


expid: LHOT10303
peakid: LHOT
year: 2010
route1: S Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Jordi Tosas
sponsor: Lhotse South Face Expedition
bcdate: 2010-09-29
smtdate: 2010-10-09
termdate: 2010-10-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to bad snow conditions and strong wind high on mountain
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak; attempted Lhotse Shar (LSHR-103-01)
campsites: BC(29/09,4700m),xxx(09/10,6400m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC in lodge at Chhukung village.

  The team made a lodge in the village of Chhukung as their base. Above that they pitced no fixed camps but moved entirely from one bivouac to another when not down in Chhukung, which was at an altitude of 4700m.

  They arrived at Chhukung on 29 September, and the next day all three members climbed to the summit of Island Peak, which was close by, and returned to Chhukung the same day.

  After two days, rest, they went to Lhotse Shar to acclimatize more. The night of 3 October they spent in a bivouac at 5900m at the col between Island Peak and Lhotse Shar before its SE Ridge. On the 4th they moved closer to the ridge and bivouacked at 6400m and the following day they climbed to 6800m, just before the SE Ridge, and then retreated to Chhukung because of many windslabs, avalanches danger and deep snow.

  They rested at Chhukung on the 6th and 7th, and on the 8th they moved to 5200m at the bottom of the South Face for their attempt to scale Lhotse. But on the 9th, Blanco was not well: he had a headache and fluid had collected in his lungs (perhaps due to pulmonary edema, perhaps pneumonia). He left the team that day, while Tosas and Corominas moved up to 6400m on the face to the left of the Yugoslav 1981 route.

  On 10 October the two Spaniards tried to go higher, but the 50-degree snow slope with half a meter of dangerous fresh snow covering hard ice left no place to put their tent. They were back to Chhukung instead.

  From the 11th to the 19th, they stayed in Chhukung during a period of changeable weather. On 20th October they went back to the mountain. They bivouacked again at 5200m and on the 21st they went again to 6400m. But they saw that conditions on the slope above had not changed, and they returned to Chhukung the same day.

  They stayed at Chhukung. Tosas every day hiked for two hours to the site of their bivouac at 5200m and every day found that snow conditions on the face were still the same. Moreover now the wind had become very strong at altitudes of 7000m to 7500m and the weather forecast predicted the continuation of these winds. On the 24th they decided to abandon the climb.

  On the 30th Tosas and Corominas they left Chhukung and trekked around to visit the base camps for Everest and Ama Dablam. Corominas stayed at Ama Dablam and joined a Spanish women's expedition on the normal SW Ridge route, while Tosas returned to Kathmandu on 2 November.


expid: MANA10312
peakid: MANA
year: 2010
route1: NE Face
nation: China
leaders: Yang Chun-Feng
sponsor: Chinese Manaslu Expedition 2010
approach: Kathmandu BC by helicopter
bcdate: 2010-09-17
smtdate: 2010-10-01
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2010-10-03
campsites: BC(17/09,4850m),C1(21/09,5750m),C2(29/09,6780m),C3(30/09,7450m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  Rao Jian-Feng, Yang Chung-Feng and Gyalzen started their summit push from C3 on 10 Oct. At 8 am Yang turned around from 7700m as Roa's oxygen ran out and Yang gave his oxygen cyclinder to Rao to continue for summit. Yang waited at C3 for Rao and Gyalzen. Rao and Gyalzen reached summit at 12 noon. They stayed on summit for 10 minutes and returned to C3 at 2 pm. They continued to C2 where they arrived at 5:30 pm, spent night there. Next day 2 Oct the team descended to BC.

  Sherpa:
    Gyalzen Dorje, 17/2/88, Phortse


expid: MANA10313
peakid: MANA
year: 2010
route1: NE Face
nation: China
leaders: John Tsang
sponsor: Manaslu Expedition
bcdate: 2010-09-26
smtdate: 2010-10-01
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2010-10-04
campsites: BC(26/09,4700m),C1(28/09,5500m),C2(29/09,6700m),C3(30/09,7300m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Tsang notes that he and his Sherpa made a "fast ascent. Nothing happened, so we moved." The weather was good and acclimatization went well. They established BC on 26 September, occupied C1 on the 28th, C2 on the 29th, C3 on the 30th and went to the top on 1 October.

  He and Pasang Dawa left C3 at 7:00 am on 1 October and were on the summit at 12:00 noon. They stayed close together on the entire climb. They were buffeted occasionally by gusts of wind at 50 km/hr but carried steadily on. They descended to C2 at 4 pm and the next day were back in BC.

  Both Tsang and Pasang Dawa used oxygen in C3, to the summit, to and in C2.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Dawa, 16/6/80, Khumjung, Everest X2


expid: MANA10314
peakid: MANA
year: 2010
route1: NE Face
nation: Hungary
leaders: Eva Baranyi
sponsor: Hungarian Manaslu Expedition
bcdate: 2010-09-18
smtdate: 2010-09-27
termdate: 2010-10-06
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to lack of motivation
campsites: BC(18/09,4830m),C1(21/09,5700m),C2(25/09,6350m),C3(27/09,6800m),xxx(27/09,6800m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  The two Hungarians established C3 at 6800m on 27 September in their acclimatization phase and returned to BC the next day.

  They climbed t C2 on 4 September and to C3 on the 5th, but immediately descended to BC. They now decided to abandon the climb: they were tired and the weather was windy.


expid: MANA10315
peakid: MANA
year: 2010
route1: NE Face
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Manaslu Expedition 2010
countries: Australia, Germany, Japan, Netherlands, Spain, UK, USA
bcdate: 2010-09-06
smtdate: 2010-10-01
smttime: 1034
termdate: 2010-10-04
campsites: BC(06/09,4895m),C1(13/09,5728m),C2(22/09,6170m),C3(29/09,6741m),C4(30/09,7416m),Smt(01/10)
accidents: Ollivier's injured shoulder
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  The summit party consisted of ten members and eight Sherpas: Ballinger, Bergsma, Bierling, Brice, Gabriele, Holt, Millard, Miller, Parore and Woodward with Dorje Sonam Gyalzen, Lhakpa Nuru, Nima Tshering, Nuru Gyalzen, Pasang Kami, Phurba Tashi, Son Dorje and Tashi Tshering.

  All reached the summit on 1 October, but because the summit of Manaslu is rather small, all could not be on the top together. They left C4 together at 7:00 am and the first on the summit were Ballinger, Parore and Dorje Sonam Gyalzen at 10:34 am. The last were Bierling, Pasang Kami and Phurba Tashi at 11:54 am.

  Ballinger, Gabriele, Holt and all the Sherpas descended all the way to BC at 7:00 pm the same day. Everyne else stopped in C2 at 3:40 pm for the night.

  Oxygen was used by all member summiters from C3 to the top to C2. The summit Sherpas began using it from C4 and stayed on it to the summit; some descended on oxygen until their supplies ran out before C2, while others used none in the descent.

  Non-summiting members:

  Ollivier reached 400m above C1 but later hurt his shoulder and left the expedition by helicopter on 26 September.

  Suzuki got to C3 but did not sleep there; she was not strong enough to continue and left in Ollivier's helicopter on the 26th.

  Van den Broeke also reached C3, did not sleep there, was climbing too slowly, so he also left on the 26th in Ollivier's helicopter.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Dorje Sonam Gyalzen, 24/5/81, Phortse, Manaslu X1, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X13
    Lhakpa Nuru, 18/6/80, Phortse, Everest X6
    Nima Tshering/Ngima Chhiri, 22/4/72, Phortse, Manaslu X1, Everest X4, Lhotse X1
    Nuru Gyalzen, 18/8/73, Phortse, Manalsu X1, Everest X4
    Pasang Kami, 26/7/79, Phortse, Everest X3
    Phurba Tashi, 24/5/71, Khumjung, Cho Oyu X5, Everest X17
    Son Dorje, 22/5/63, Phortse, Manaslu X1, Everest X9
    Tashi Tshering/Chhiring, 8/5/90, Khumjung, Everest X2


expid: MANA10316
peakid: MANA
year: 2010
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Oscar Cadiach
sponsor: 25 Anniversary Manaslu Expedition
bcdate: 2010-09-22
smtdate: 2010-10-01
termdate: 2010-10-08
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to strong wind
campsites: BC(22/09,4900m),C1(24/09,5750m),C2(29/09,6900m),C3(30/09,7500m),xxx(01/10,7700m)
accidents: Nothing serious; Fernandez slightly frostbitten
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  Three members, Julia Cadiach, her father Oscar Cadiach and Joan Fernandez, made their first attempt to reach the summit on 1 October, when they set out from C3. But they got to only 7700m, where the strong wind turned them around, and they returned to C3. The wind got even stronger during the night, and the next day they returned to BC.

  On the 5th, the three Spaniards plus their kitchen boy, Karma Gyalzen Sherpa, left BC and climbed to C1. The next day, which was cold and windy, Oscar and Julia Cadiach went back to BC, but Fernandez and Karma Gyalzen continued up to C2. Again the wind increased in strength during the night; it was no blowing at 40-50km/hr every day. They retreated to BC on the 7th, and the climb was finished.

  Perez had arrived at BC a week after the others and moved up the mountain alone. He first went to C1 on 28 September. On 4 October, he climbed to 6400m, where the Spanish climber Xavi Arias had a tent at a low C2 at this altitude, and where he spent that night. On the 5th, he went up to 7000m and down to the low C2. He had intended to stay in the team's high C2 at 6900m, but fog prevented him from finding the camp. He slept in low C2. The next day, the 7th, he did get to high C2, only to descend to BC with the others that day.

  Sherpa:
    Karma Gyalzen Sherpa, 31/7/88, Kurima, Sotang-6, Solu


expid: MANA10317
peakid: MANA
year: 2010
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Miguel Perez
sponsor: Spanish Manaslu Expedition
approach: Arughat->Machha Khola->Loh
bcdate: 2010-09-17
smtdate: 2010-09-30
termdate: 2010-10-01
campsites: BC(17/09,4800m),C1(20/09,5700m),C2(27/09,6400m),C3(28/09,6800m),C4(29/09,7400m),Smt(30/09)
agency: Chomolungma Pilgrimage
routememo:
  Perez and Jit Bahadur started their summit bid from C4 at  8am on 30 Nov in high wind. They reached summit at about 3:30 pm, stayed on summit maximum 5 minutes, descended to C4, spent the night there. Next day descended to BC. 

  Other summiters on the summit day were Kenton Cool's team and some Sherpas. Perez and Cool were the first ones to reach summit.

  Sherpa:
    Jit Bahadur Sherpa, 30/7/78 (15/4/2035), Khare-5, Dolakha, Everest X1


expid: MANA10318
peakid: MANA
year: 2010
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Jacques Marmet
sponsor: French Manaslu Expedition
approach: Arughat->Lablu->Besi->Doban->Philim->Gap-> Lho->Samagaon
bcdate: 2010-09-24
smtdate: 2010-09-30
termdate: 2010-10-03
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to Marmet's leg pain
campsites: BC(24/09,5980m),C1(27/09,6566m),C2(28/09,6800m),xxx(30/09,7200m)
agency: Ramdung Expedition
routememo:
  Marmet's plan was to do speed climb on Manaslu without spending much time for acclimatization process. But it did not work. According to Marmet the reasons for not being able to achieve his goal mainly were inappropriate food intake, less water intake and not enough sleep. He thinks these factors caused the leg pain. All in all his assessment was that the body was not able to adopt enough to go for the summit.

  Sherpa:
    Phurba Wangchu, 5/12/75 (19/08/2032), Hill Sherpa Tole, Waku-9, Solu,
      Everest X2, Lhotse X1, Cho Oyu X1


expid: MANA10319
peakid: MANA
year: 2010
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Kenji Kondo
sponsor: Adventure Guides Manaslu Expedition 2010
approach: Samagaon
bcdate: 2010-09-10
smtdate: 2010-10-01
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2010-10-04
campsites: BC(10/09,4700m),C1(16/09,5700m),C2(29/09,6600m),C3(30/09,7500m),Smt(01/10)
accidents: Death of Kuwa Bara
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Ms Kawasaki, Kondo, Takata, Lhakpa Chhiri and Tarke started their summit bid from C3 at 8:30 am on 1 Oct. They reached summit at 1 pm and stayed on summit for 15 minutes then back to C3. Kawasaki and Kondo snowboarded down from 8000m to C3 where they reached at 3 pm and walked down to C2 where they reached at 5:30 pm. They spent the night there and next day went down to BC. Takata, Lhakpa Chhiri and Tarke arrived C3 at 5:30 pm and spent the night there. Takata and Sherpas spent a night at C1 and descended to BC on 3 Oct. The summit day weather was clear but windy. However, it was better than on 30 Sept.

  Fujita, Ishida, Nabeshima and Nakayama climbed up to 7000m on 29 Sept; that was enough for them and they were tired.

  Kajiyama Kuwabara and Mori climbed up to 6400m.

  Dead: Kuwabara died on 25 Sept at BC. He walked out from his tent to have dinner and collapsed at about 6 pm. His body brought to Kathmandu by helicopter on 26 Sept. Kajiyama left BC with the body.

  Summit Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Chhiri, 7/4/64 (25/12/2020), Lokhim-9, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2
    Tarke, 2024, Lokhim-4, Solu, Manaslu X1, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X3

  Non-summit Sherpas:
    Kami Geljen Sherpa, 19/11/73 (04/08/2030), Jubing-7
    Lama Babu Sherpa, 24/6/69 (10/03/2026), Lokhim-9
    Ngata Sherpa, 22/5/70 (09/02/2027), Lokhim-9
    Nwange Chho Sherpa, 1/1/72 (17/09/2028), Lokhim-4
    Pasang Tamang, 4/12/68 (19/08/2025), Deusa-6
    Phura Chhiri Sherpa, 1968-69 (2025), Lokhim-9


expid: MANA10320
peakid: MANA
year: 2010
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Sumiyo Tsuzuki
sponsor: Independent on Manaslu
approach: Helicopter to Samagaon
bcdate: 2010-09-21
smtdate: 2010-10-01
termdate: 2010-10-03
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to strong wind (forecast also says strong wind)
campsites: BC(21/09,4800m),C1(26/0,5800m),C2(27/09,6800m),xxx(01/10,7000m)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  Tsuzuki and Lopsang tried to go to C3 on 1 October, but it was too windy and they had to turn around from about 7000m. They did not wait for another attempt as weather forecast said the strong wind will remain for several days.

  Sherpa:
    Lopsang Temba, 23/5/1968 (10/02/2025), Khumjung-2, Everest X8, Cho Oyu X7, 
      Xixabangma X1, Ama Dablam X1


expid: NORB10301
peakid: NORB
year: 2010
route1: NW Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Steffen Klassert
sponsor: Dolpo Triple Expedition to Norbu Kang
approach: (see route notes)
bcdate: 2010-10-05
smtdate: 2010-10-10
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2010-10-12
othersmts: Climbed Kanta Gaton (KAGA-103-01); attempted Kagmara I (KAG1-103-01)
campsites: BC(05/10,4600m),C1(09/10,5250m),Smt(10/10)
agency: Adventure Geo Treks
routememo:
  Approach: Nepalgunj->Surkhet->Juphal by air, Dunai->Dho Tarap->Nundu->Pak->Panklenga 

  Beierlein, Erkelenz and Klassert left C1 at 5:15 am on 10 Oct. The team reached summit at 14:30 hours. They stayed at the summit for about 30 minutes, then descended to C1 at 19:30 hours where they spent the night. Next day the team went down to BC. Summit day weather was good on ascent, but on descent started light snowfall, in general mostly fine and sunny. 

  Herrmannspahn left expedition from Dunai on 28 Sept and left Kathmandu on 2 or 3 October. 

  The route Japanese expedition in 2003 led by Ohnishi climbed was not main peak.

  Route: NW Face via north icefall - northwest to steep ice climb up to 60 degrees and then to Col to south. Last 150m loose rocks, no snow.


expid: NUPT10301
peakid: NUPT
year: 2010
route1: S Face
nation: USA
leaders: Cory Richards
sponsor: American Nuptse South Face Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Phortse->Dingboche->Chhukung
bcdate: 2010-11-19
smtdate: 2010-11-21
termdate: 2010-11-24
termnote: Abandoned at 5600m due to face out of condition and members not getting on well together
campsites: BC(19/11,5300m),xxx(21/11,5600m)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  BC at west side of Nuptse Glacier
  High point on the Glacier.

  Richards and Kennedy flew to Lukla on 12 November and Zimmerman on the 13th. They trekked via Phakding, Namche Bazaar, Phortse, Dingboche and Chhukung villages and up the Nuptse Glacier. They made their BC on 19 November at 5302m (according to the Schneider Khumbu map) on the west side of the glacier on grass which had grown over moraine.

  On the 21st they took all their gear to 5600m in the middle of the glacier, where the surface was rock covering ice. From there, they took pictures of the line on the South Face that they proposed to climb. They left their gear, returned to BC and studied the photos. Now they saw that the face was "completely out of condition:" it was all bare slab rock, shattered granite, and there was evidence of rock fall.

  On the 22nd they went back to 5600m to bring their gear to BC, and they talked together: Richards and Kennedy spoke with Zimmerman about how he irritated them. He apologized, but the "team dynamics" was a real problem, Richards and Kennedy felt. A big challenge, which the South Face of Nuptse is, needs everyone to feel comfortable with each other and not constantly being irritated by another of the members.

  On 23 November there was light snowfall, too light to cover the face. They decided to quit and left BC for Namche the next day, trekked to Lukla on the 25th, and flew to Kathmandu on the 26th.

  Richards wants to go back to the South Face a bit earlier in the season (in October-early November), when there should be more snow on the face without wind having blown it all away. He prefers a three-member team for this challenge.


expid: NUPT10302
peakid: NUPT
year: 2010
route1: W Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Frederick Wilkinson
sponsor: New Hampshire Nuptse Expedition
approach: Dingboche->Biberkerka, north along west ridge of Nuptse Glacier
bcdate: 2010-10-19
smtdate: 2010-11-04
termdate: 2010-11-07
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to strong wind and difficult long ridge
campsites: BC(19/10,5300m),ABC(22/10,5900m),Biv(04/11,6300m),xxx(04/11,6300m)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  BC  at grassy area near west ridge side of Glacier (3-4 hrs from Dingboche)
  ABC at start of West Ridge
  Biv on West Ridge
  High point on West Ridge.

  The team decided to acclimatize on the West Ridge. They made an advance base camp at 6900m at the start of the ridge and "went up and down a few times" from ABC in their acclimatization.

  On 4 November, Gilmore, Mahoney and Wilkinson bivouacked at 6300m on the ridge. The next day, they descended to BC. A wind was blowing; there was technical snow climbing ahead, so they needed more snow pickets; and there was a lot of crevasses on a very long ridge (ABC was at last three kilometers from the summit). They decided to abandon the climb.

  They went back up to ABC on the 6th to bring down their gear and left BC on the 7th.

  They had originally planned to go to Nuptse's summit via its South Face, but they found that melting snow was running down the face and loosening rocks.

  Richards left the team slightly early. He had learned about the death of Chhewang Nima Sherpa in an avalanche on Baruntse, and this upset him enough that he decided to quit. He left the expedition on 3 November.


expid: NANG10301
peakid: NANG
year: 2010
route1: S Ridge from E
nation: Australia
leaders: Tim Macartney-Snape
sponsor: Matt Poz Yangma Expedition
ascent1: 1st
bcdate: 2010-10-26
smtdate: 2010-11-05
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2010-11-08
campsites: BC(26/10,5185m),ABC(28/10,5700m),Biv1(03/11,5850m),Biv2(04/11,5900m),Smt(05/11)
accidents: Finnigan altitude sickness
achievment: 1st ascent
agency: Himalayan Guiding Institute
routememo:
  Note: This team originally thought they were climbing Pabuk Kang (6244m).

  BC  at west side of Nanguma Pokhari
  ABC south of South Ridge
  1st biv south of South Ridge
  2nd biv foot of South Ridge.

  The team trekked up the Tamur River to Olangchungola and the Yangma Khola, then north past Yangma village to a peak on the Tibetan border and south to Nunguma Pokhari (lake), south-southwest of Pabuk Kang's South Ridge.

  (Pabuk Kang, 6244m is also on the border. Macartney-Snape believed its name is actually Yangma Peak, hence his expedition's name. It is unnamed on trekking maps and on HMG's map "Yanma" sheet 2787-04).

  The team pitched their BC on 26 October at 5185m near the west side of Nunguma Pokhari, and ABC two days later at 5700m, south of the South Ridge. On the 29th returned to BC.

  Now there were several days of snowfall. They went up to ABC on the 30th, but down to BC on the 31st. They ventured up again on 2 November to ABC, and on the 3rd they made their first bivouac at 5850m, south of the South Ridge. They continued their climb the next day with another bivouac at 5900m at the foot of the ridge, a recce up the ridge to 6050m and returned to the second bivouac to sleep. 

  On 5 November they went for the top. At 4 am all members except Finnigan (who was ill in BC) and Rodgers (who had stayed at BC throughout the climb) left their second bivouac and followed the ridge to a steep rock step at 6100m, which was very technical; Barton and Macartney-Snape managed to turn the step on the left. Above it was perfect classic deep snow. The two were on the summit at 2 pm and descended to a saddle at 6050m at 3:45 pm and climbed a small peak (pt 6128) which the step led to, then rappelled down steep rock to rejoin the others. All were in the high bivouac between 8:00 and 10:00 pm.

  The other four members had also reached the saddle. Baldwin and Scott climbed from there to 6150m on the summit ridge at 3:45 pm, too late for them to continue to the top. All four went back to their second bivouac.

  Everyone was in BC on the 6th.

  Finnigan got no higher than ABC. He was not acclimatizing well and in fact his condition deteriorated.

  On the 8th, Finnigan, Macartney-Snape and Scott left BC by helicopter to Kathmandu while the rest of the expedition trekked out.


expid: PUMO10301
peakid: PUMO
year: 2010
route1: S Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Tim Rippel
sponsor: Peak Freaks Pumori Expedition 2010
countries: Australia, France, Sweden, UK
bcdate: 2010-10-13
smtdate: 2010-10-23
termdate: 2010-10-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to dangerous route above C2
campsites: BC(13/10,5250m),ABC(20/10,5700m),C1(21/10,6100m),xxx.Mbrs(21/10,6100m),xxx.Shrpas(23/10,6400m)
agency: Senge Treks & Expeditions
routememo:
  BC  by lake (normal BC site for SE Face)
  ABC southeast Glacier
  C1  just below South Ridge.

  The team made an acclimatization climb on 21 October to C1, where their Sherpas had pitched four tents, but they went back to ABC the same day. On the 23rd, the members climbed around the top of the mountain's southeast glacier for practice and then went down to BC.

  Meanwhile, the Sherpas had spent the 22nd and 23rd fixing the route from C1 to C2 (6400m), with an Ecuadorian team and returned to C1 to sleep.

  The Ecuadorians climbed from C2 to the summit on the 24th; Rippel understood that it took them 15 hours and 45 minutes to reach the summit and seven hours to return to C2, and they reported that the route was very technical and too dangerous from rockfall for Rippel's members.

  In any case Rippel had decided on the 23rd to abandon the climb, a decision based on his own Sherpas' report by walkie-talkie that the route above C2 was too dangerous for the members.

  Sherpas:
    Jangbu, 18/6/65, Bakachol-9, Khotang, Everest X5
    Palden Namgye, 20/9/72, Phortse, Everest X4, Lhotse X4, Manaslu & Annapurna I X1
    Tashi Thundup, 10/4/85, Khumjung, Everest X6


expid: PUMO10302
peakid: PUMO
year: 2010
route1: S Ridge from SE Glacier
nation: Ecuador
leaders: Oswaldo Freire
sponsor: Climbing Group of San Gabriel College of Quito-Ecuador
ascent1: 157
countries: USA
bcdate: 2010-10-10
smtdate: 2010-10-24
smttime: 1315
termdate: 2010-10-26
campsites: BC(10/10,5300m),ABC(14/10,5700m),C1(16/10,6200m),C2(22/10,6450m),Smt(24/10)
achievment: Made a new variation of S Ridge route
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  BC  at west side of big lake northeast of Kalapattar
  ABC on glacier south of SE Face
  C1  slightly below South Ridge via snow ramp to rocky area.
  C2  10m below South Ridge.

  The summit bid was made by Freire and Jarrin on 24 October, starting from C2 at 4:30 am. They climbed the South Ridge to the top, which they reached at 5:15 pm, and returned to C2 at 1:15 am of the 25th, very tired." They had had "a very long day" on a new variation on the South Ridge route, and it presented serious problems.

  Their BC was on the west side of a large lake near the foot of SE Face, and ABC was pitched on the 14th at 5700m on the glacier at the bottom of the face. C1, occupied on the 16th, was set below the South Ridge and reached by a snow ramp up the left edge of the SE Face to a rocky area, while C2, slept in on the 22nd, was a mere 10 meters below the ridge.

  Climbing up from C2, they had to protect every pitch until the last 100 meters. The ridge was very sharp with many overhanging seracs, so they constantly had to traverse onto the left face of the ridge, moving 20-25 meters below the ridge itself in a zigzag line, climbing down from the ridge and then back up onto the ridge over and over again.

  And they had to descend in the same zigzag pattern because "in the dark we wanted to follow the lines so we could not get lost." Above C2 they fixed only 50 meters of rope because to fix more would take several days. So one man would move ahead while being belayed by the other below him, then the rope would be reeled in as the lower man came up until they met, and then the whole process would be repeated.

  Actually Stacey and Suarez had also left C2 at 4:30 am, but by 8:00 am, these two were very cold, and it was decided that four men moving together would make for extremely slow progress, so Freire and Jarrin would continue their summit attempt and the other two would go back to C2, which they reached at 10:00 am.

  The remaining six members did the work of dismantling their camps and cooking for the summit pair. Nine of the ten members were good friends who had climbed together in the past, and Riddel, who was new to the group, would climb with them in the future.

  Freire and Jarrin joined the others in BC at 2:00 pm on the 25th while the others, who had started removing the camps the day before, got to BC one hour later. The team left BC on the 26th.


expid: PUMO10303
peakid: PUMO
year: 2010
route1: S Face-E Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Manuel Gonzalez Diaz
sponsor: Andalucia Pumori 2010
bcdate: 2010-11-20
smtdate: 2010-11-27
termdate: 2010-12-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to high wind
campsites: BC(20/11,5450m),C1(27/11,6200m),xxx(27/11,6200m)
agency: Bochi Bochi Treks
routememo:
  Carrascosu and Gonzalez Diaz on their summit push arrived at 6200m on 27 Nov. They did not find a place to pitch their tent on the ridge and had to biv in strong wind. The ridge is sharp. Then they decided to give up further climbing. On next day 28 Nov they went down to BC.

  Carrascoso said that lower section of the mountain below 5800m was dry and rocks falling frequently.


expid: PUMO10304
peakid: PUMO
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Johann Hofer
sponsor: Italian Pumori Expedition
ascent1: 158
bcdate: 2010-11-04
smtdate: 2010-11-16
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2010-11-18
campsites: BC(04/11,5400m),C1(07/11,6100m),C2(15/11,6850m),Smt(16/11)
accidents: Di Pauli and Pfeifer suffered from HAS
agency: Monviso Treks
routememo:
  Di Pauli and Pfeifer suffered from HAS.

  Hofer, Pixner, Reiterer and Staffler started from C2 at 8 am on 16 Nov.
  They got to the top at around 12 noon. They stayed on summit about 5 minutes. It was very cold and very strong wind. They descended to C2 at about 2 pm and continued to C1 where they arrived at 5 pm. slept there. Next day 17 Nov went down to BC. 

  Di Pauli and Pfeifer climbed up to 6200m on 12 Nov. Di Pauli had very bad cough and Pfeifer had severe headache. Both members left BC on 14 Nov by helicopter and left Nepal on 19 Nov.

  Climbing route was steep 50-60-degree ice and rock climbing, at different places there were 90-degree vertical rock climbing altogether about 50m. In general the route was very exposed and mixed snow, ice and rock and very long ridge (2000m).

  Fixed rope: between BC to C2.


expid: PUTH10303
peakid: PUTH
year: 2010
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Guillaume Merville
sponsor: French Putha Hiunchuli Expedition
approach: Nepalgunj->Dunai->Tarakot->Barbung Khola->Kakkot->Panji
bcdate: 2010-10-22
smtdate: 2010-10-30
termdate: 2010-11-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to strong wind, very cold (-25 degrees)
campsites: BC(22/10,4920m),C1(27/10,5480m),C2(28/10,5888m),C3(29/10,6100m),xxx(30/10,6500m)
agency: Churen Himal Treks
routememo:
  On 30 Oct Gosset and Melchior started their summit push from C3 at 8:15 am. When they reached at 6500m at about 10:30 am Gosset had very bad cough; then they turned around to C3 where they reached at 11 am. The weather was good. 

  On 31 Oct the team made their second summit push. Cardot, Gosset, Melchior and Merville started from C3 at 7:30 am. They reached 6200m at 8 am. It was windy and very cold; then they turned around to BC. First one arrived BC at 2:30 pm and last one at 4 pm.


expid: SAIP10302
peakid: SAIP
year: 2010
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Andreas Pendl
sponsor: Saipal Expedition HTG Kufstein 2010
countries: Germany
approach: Simikot->Dharapuri->Sangli Khola->Puiya->Chala->Surte Kharka
bcdate: 2010-10-17
smtdate: 2010-10-22
termdate: 2010-10-29
termnote: Abandoned at 5700m due to loose rock falls, strong wind, moving glacier
campsites: BC(17/10,4250m),C1(20/10,4850m),C2(22/10,5680m),xxx(22/10,5700m)
agency: Makalu Adventure
routememo:
  In his emails Pendl, wrote that the original track to the NE Ridge route was not possible to climb because the glacier has changed too much in 20 years.

  It was too dangerous because of ice seracs chinks and the glacier missing all the time causing ice pulling down even in the nights.

  Pendl wrote that they tried to find a way on the moraine's ridge to reach the saddle below the steep part between 5700m and 6300m. Due to loose rocks it was not safe enough. The steep part was something like a groove 20 years ago as we saw on the photo of the first climber. This year there were huge ice-balconies.

  Because of this situation plus limited time and the heavy wind speeds between 80 and 100 km/h on the ridge, we decided not to risk our lives and finally abandoned.


expid: SAIP10301
peakid: SAIP
year: 2010
route1: N Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
sponsor: Saipal 2010
countries: Luxembourg
bcdate: 2010-10-18
smtdate: 2010-10-29
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2010-10-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6925m due to lack of time
othersmts: Climbed Saipal East Humla (a subpeak on the NE Ridge of Saipal)
campsites: BC(18/10,4250m),C1(20/10,4800m),C2(21/10,5600m),C3(24/10,5800m),C4(27/10,6240m),NESmt(29/10,6925m)
agency: Glacier Safari Treks
routememo:
  The team flew from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj and on to Surkhet on 10 October and on 13 October to Simikot. They then trekked from Simikot up the Karnali River to Yalbang and south to Chala village and farther south to Kalang Kharka and to BC.

  On the 18th, they arrived at BC (4150m), which was north of the mountain on a large glacier. Two days later they established C1 at 4800m higher on the glacier, and on the 21st they made C2 at 5600m on the west glacier. C3 was placed on the 24th at 5800m on small ridge, the west ridge of a small peak, Rani Himal, at the beginning of Saipal's North Ridge. They fixed 500m of rope on this small ridge to the top of Rani Himal; this section was very steep, and the rope would be needed for the members descent.

  C4 was pitched on the 27th at 6240m on Saipal's North Ridge, and two days later, on 29 October, three members went to Saipal's 6925m high NE Summit (aka Saipal East Humla). Bonhomme, Grobel and Jung left C4 at 4:30 am, reached the NE Summit via the North Ridge at 11:30 am and returned to C4.

  All members had gone to the top of Rani Himal at 6200m on the 27th, but five of them went only to C3 because some were tired, for some the route ahead was too difficult, and some had previously suffered from frostbite, so their frostbite sites were sensitive to cold.

  Now they were running out of time. All members and Sherpas left BC on the 30th.


expid: TASH10302
peakid: TASH
year: 2010
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Sachio Nakamizo
sponsor: Kyushu University Tashi Kang Expedition 2010
approach: Pokhara by air, road to Beni, Marpha->Dhampus Pass & NW to BC
bcdate: 2010-09-30
smtdate: 2010-10-03
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2010-10-08
othersmts: Climbed unnamed peak (Aoshima, Chiijiwa, Honda, Ngima Sherpa, Wangche Sherpa)
campsites: BC(30/09,5500m),C1(02/10,5900m),Tashi Kang II(06/10,6157m)
agency: Rolwaling Trek
routememo:
  BC south of mountain near snout of Tashi Kang Glacier
  C1 on Tashi Kang Glacier.

  The team made their BC on 30 September at 5500m at the snout of the Tashi Kang Glacier, south of the mountain they called Tashikang II. (They said that there are three Tashi Kang peaks clustered together close to the glacier: Tashi Kangs II and III (both 6157m) and Tashi Kang I (6386m) and nearby are an unnamed peak (6403m) and Tsartse (6343m). From their C1 at 5900m on the glacier, they scaled or attempted to scale three mountains: the unnamed peak, Tashikang II and Tsartse.

  First, on 3 October three members, Aoshima, Chiijiwa and Honda, and two Sherpas, Ngima and Wangche, went north to the unnamed peak. From C1 at 3:00 am, they climbed in "very nice weather" up the face of its SW Ridge to a col at 6000m and thence up the ridge itself to the summit at 9:30 am. They returned to BC at about 3:00 pm.

  Chijiiwa, Honda and Kaneuji with Ngima, Wangche and De Temba climbed back to C1 and on 6 October they set out for the summit of Tashi Kang II, which was north-northwest of BC. They left C1 at 4:20 am and climbed its SE Ridge, also in excellent weather, were on the top at 7:00 am and back in BC at 11:00 am.

  Their final goal was Tsartse. They examined it from C1 and did not like what they saw: its northwest side was very steep snow and ice, its west side fragile rock, also very steep. Furthermore they could not see a possible approach route to get to the mountain. They abandoned the idea of climbing Tsartse.

  Non-summiting members:

  Maeda joined the push from C1 on 3 October to scale the unnamed peak, but 6400m was very tired and went back to C1; he returned to BC with the summiters.

  Nakamizo on 2 October, when the team was on the way to establish C1, he reached only 5600m and then had such a pain in his spinal column that he had to be escorted back to BC, where he remained for the rest of the climbing period.

  Santa, aged 74, stayed in BC the entire time.

  Sherpas:
    Da Pinjo, 26/3/89 (13/12/2045), Lokhim-9, no 8000ers
    Ngima, 23/5/74 (10/2/2031), Gorakhani-4, Solu, Everest X2
    Wangche/Ongche/Onjchi, 22/8/83 (6/5/2040), Beding, Everest X2, Manaslu X2, 
      Cho Oyu X1


expid: TAWA10301
peakid: TAWA
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Mikio Iga
sponsor: Tawa Himal Japan Sagarmatha Club Autumn 2010
ascent1: 1st
approach: Beni->Jomsom->Jhong->Kharka
bcdate: 2010-10-19
smtdate: 2010-10-21
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2010-10-22
campsites: BC(19/10,5600m),Smt(21/10)
accidents: Date suffered from HAS at 4400m and evacuated on 17 Oct to Kathmandu
agency: Peak Summit Trek
routememo:
  Some of same members had attempted Tawa in Summer 2008 on a Yakawa Kang permit and said they had been on Purkung Himal.

  Tawa is north-northwest of Yakawa Kang.

  Five out of the six members of the Tawa Himal expedition including expedition leader Dr. Iga and three Sherpas established their BC at 5600m on 19 October. Members Fujikura, Hattori, Matsushima, Uchida, Ang Kami, Lhakpa and Chhongba Sherpa started their summit bid from BC at 6 am on 21 October towards southeast direction on the snow slope to the pass. From the pass the climbers went up along southwest snow ridge beyond two snow walls. At that point 5800m Uchida got a problem with altitude and went down to BC with Ang Kami. The remaining four members and two Sherpas continued their ascent and reached to the shoulder at 6000m. There, Hattori and Matsushima gave up their climb due to altitude problem and descended to BC. Iga, Fujikura, Ms Lhakpa and Chhongba continued their climb along snow and rock mixed steep wall by using 150 meters of rope and ascenders. They reached the summit at 11 am and stayed on summit for 30 minutes. From the 2.5 square-meter summit they had view of Dhaulagiri, Purkung and Mustang areas. They made a cairn on the summit and descended to BC where they arrived at 2 pm.

  Date was heli-lifted to Kathmandu on 17 October from 4400m due to altitude problem.

  Climbing route: Between 5600-5800m snow field spanning 1.0 km, 5800-6000m plateau, between 6000-6110m ridge 0.8 km, summit tower 0.15 km.

  Weather condition during on the summit day was a fine day with occasional fog.

  The altitude of Tawa Himal is 6110m, but the expedition's altimeter indicated as 6070m on the summit.

  The peak is located at the end of ridge outgrown from Mt. Yakawa Kang and is north-northeast of Yakawa Kang. The distance between these two peaks is 3.3 km. The peak is not listed in the Ministry's peak list.

  The report on the first attempt on Tawa Himal sent by Makoto Hamamura writes in the report that the challenge was the Club's second try, following the first try by 16 members which failed because of the lack of studies and several severe accidents in August 2008. Mr Hamamura was the leader of the first attempt.

  Fixed rope: between 6000-6110m (summit tower).

  Sherpas:
    Ang Kami Sherpa, 21/08/82, Gudel-5, Solukhumbu, Everest X3, 2004/2006/2010, 
      Lhotse 2008
    Lhakpa, 22/08/1983, Khotang-5, Everest, Kangchenjunga
    Chhongba 16/12/90, Gudel-5, Solu


expid: TUKU10301
peakid: TUKU
year: 2010
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kazumari Kimura
sponsor: Kurashiki Tukuche Peak Expedition
approach: Marpha, on Kali Gandaki River to Thapa Peak
bcdate: 2010-10-01
smtdate: 2010-10-08
termdate: 2010-10-12
termnote: Abandoned at 6215m due to climbed too slowly, then too tired
campsites: BC(01/10,5000m),C1(02/10,5530m),C2(07/10,6015m),xxx(08/10,6215m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  C2 on NW Ridge
  Nigh point on NW Ridge.

  The expedition approached the mountain by the usual trekking route up the Kali Gandaki River to Marpha, west to Thapa Pass and went to BC directly north of Tukuche.

  They got no higher on the mountain than 6215m on 8 October. Aono, Akazawa and Kimura, with Dirga Sing Tamang and Pemba Tshering, left C2 at 6015m at 5:40 am. The weather was fine that day, but they were very slow. Akazawa turned back at 6100m. Aono, Kimura and their two Sherpa gained only 200 vertical meters above C2 at 8:10 am. They now decided that their progress was too slow, so they also turned around and all descended all the way to BC, where Aono and Kimura arrived at 3:45 pm.

  The climb was now over. All members were too tired to make another summit bid. They were not young: Kimura was 68 years old and Akazawa was 65. Akazawa was now so weakened by fatigue that during his descent, he used bottled oxygen from C1 to halfway to BC. (His was the team's only use of oxygen).

  Their three Sherpas fixed a total of 1450m of rope on the mountain: 50m from BC to C1 in a steep section (30-35 degrees slope), 950m between C1 to C2, and 450m from C2 to their highest point 6215m.

  Sherpas:
    Dirga Sing Tamang, 26/9/67 (10/6/2024), Chimding, Kerung-5, Solu, Cho Oyu X1
    Nima Nuru Sherpa, 6/11/81 (21/7/2038), Tesho, Khumbu, Everest X11, Cho Oyu X2
    Pemba Tshering Sherpa, 15/6/43, Thamo, Everest X3, Dhaulagiri I X1, Cho Oyu X2, 
      Kangchenjunga X1


expid: URMA04301
peakid: URMA
year: 2004
route1: N Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Barbara Bierling
sponsor: Reconnaissance on Urkema
countries: Argentina, UK
bcdate: 2004-10-09
smtdate: 2004-10-10
termdate: 2004-10-10
termnote: Abandoned at 5500m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: C1(09/10,4900m),xxx(10/10,5500m)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  The team was composed of three members, all expatriates living in Kathmandu, and one climbing Sherpa, Namgya. The leader, Billi Bierling, was asked by the head of a Kathmandu trekking agency, Suman Pandey of Explore Himalaya, to do a reconnaissance of a 5890m Langtang Himal mountain called Urkema with the idea that the mountain could be a good peak for Scouts from other countries to climb in 2007 to mark the 150th birth anniversary of the founder of the worldwide Scouting movement, Lord Baden Powell.

  The four climbers in 2004 made a fast trip to the mountain during a Nepalese holiday period. They left Kathmandu on 3 October, went by road to Syabru Besi, then trekked eastward along the north side of Langtang Khola to Kyanjin Kharka/Gompa (3900m). They spent two nights at the gompa (the 7th-8th), which they made their base. 

  On the 8th, the three members climbed a minor peak nearby, Therko Ri, while Namgya went off by himself to have a look at Urkema's eastern side. He crossed the Ganja La Pass, and climbed the east face of Urkema to about 4900m. He found many crevasses, and his time was up, so he abandoned his climbing effort and returned to Kyanjin Gompa. (In 2001, Namgya had been a trainee at a basic mountaineering course organized by the Nepal Mountaineering Association on the north side of Urkema. He explained that this was why he had taken this 2004 team to attempt that route.)

  On the 9th, the four climbers left the gompa for their mountain. They trekked west to the area's only bridge across the Langtang Khola so they could reach its south bank, then back eastward to the north side of Urkema. Namgya had been on the North Face before, in the autumn of 2001 on a Nepal Mountaineering Association training course, so he took the members directly up the gentle slope of the North Face, where they camped at 4900m.

  On 10 October they left the camp at 4:00 am for the actual climbing part of the route to the summit. The weather was clear and calm. Namgya broke trail through the snow, which consisted of one layer of snow on top of another layer that had not consolidated. After having climbed for about two and half hours, when they were at about 5500m, a small slab avalanche came down beside them.

  They decided at turn back because of the snow conditions. The same day, they collected their gear from their camp at 4900m and spent that night back at Kyanjin Gompa. They returned to Kathmandu on the 13th.

  Sherpa:
    Namgya/Namgyal Sherpa, 11/8/71, Gyabla, Lelep-8, Taplejung, Everest X2


expid: URMA07301
peakid: URMA
year: 2007
route1: N Face
nation: Singapore
leaders: Sim Seng Amos Chye
sponsor: Baden Powell Scout Peak
ascent1: 1st
countries: Australia, China, Indonesia, Malaysia, Nepal, S Korea, Taiwan
bcdate: 2007-09-10
smtdate: 2007-09-12
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2007-09-13
othersmts: Tserko Ri (4984m) 9 Sept by all members and Sherpas
campsites: BC(10/09,3900m),HC(10/09,4996m),Smt(12/09)
accidents: Seok Won Kim's incipient altitude sickness
achievment: 1st ascent
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  BC at Kyanjin Gompa.

  Baden Powell Peak Expedition led by Sim-Seng Amos Chye - 3, 6 & 10 January

  Leadership: Sim Seng Amos Chye of Singapore is the nominal leader only. Each country team had its own team leader, and Sirdar Phurba Pasang actually led the climb.

  The expedition was organized by Nepal Scouts to mark the 150th birth anniversary of the founder of the world wide scouting movement, Lord Baden Powell. They selected a Langtang Himal peak known as Urkema (5890m), which the Nepalese authorities opened to climbers in 2006 and in 2007 officially renamed as Baden Powell Scout Peak. The expedition party consisted of foreigners from Boy Scout organizations who planned to trek into Langtang, some of whom expected to climb a modest Langtang mountain.

  The climbing team consisted of 24 foreigners climbers, one Nepalese (a Newar) from Nepal Scout headquarters in Kathmandu and six Sherpas. The foreigners were three Chinese from Hong Kong, seven South Koreans, six Singaporeans, six Taiwanese, and one Australian.

  The organization of the group was handled by the Nepal Scout's headquarters, and the group's activities began with two nights' stay at the Scouts' camp at Kakani, on the road leading out of the Kathmandu Valley to the west towards Trisuli Bazar. They trekked for 11 days on a circular route that retured them to Syabru Besi on 6 September. Then they trekked for four days to their mountain followed the Langtang Khola eastward to Kyanjin Gompa (3900m), where they made their BC.

  They made a quick acclimatization ascent of nearby Tserko Ri (4984m); all climbing members and Sherpas summited it on 9 September. The next day the climbing team trekked for over seven hours to high camp (4996m) by going westward along the Khola to the bridge across the river, crossing over, then eastward again uphill for over four hours to the north side of their timberline and just below the snowline. From the gompa to high camp was a vertical climb of more than 1200 meters over a horizontal distance of 3.2 kms.

  On 12 September, the climbing party headed for the summit up the North Face, starting at 2:00 am. From High Camp they crossed a rocky field and climbed up about 50 meters before they reached a rock slab on the right. From here, they moved along a glacier and up its 40-degree slope to a snow bowl. They zigzagged their way up, keeping to the right to avoid obvious crevasses, then climbed an 80-degree ice slope towards a rock face to the west. They continued on the ice and climbed to the top of a ridge at about 5500m, then traversed eastward to the SE Ridge. From here, Mangles, an experienced climber, and three of the six Sherpa summiters set fixed ropes for the inexperienced members. They crossed into deeper snow in the center of a bowl, then up a 50-degree slope and up a 50-degree ridge to about 60 meters to the summit.

  The day's push to the summit was definitely not a trek: the climb was probably at the same level of difficulty as ascending Island Peak in Khumbu. Mark Mangles of Australia was first to gain the top at about 12:00 noon and descended in two hours from top to high camp at 3:00 pm, at the same time as the last person, Naresh Maharjan of Nepal Scouts headquarters, reached the summit.

  A total of 15 members summited. They were Chang, Cho, Seng Kenny, Kim Hee-Jang, Kim Jong-Seok, Kim Seok-Won, Lai, Lee Cheng-Hsiu, Mark Mangles, Maharjan, Ng, Park, Pyo, Tay and Wu.

  Mangles continued down to BC that afternoon, but all the other climbers stopped for the night in high camp; the last one to arrived in camp got there at about 7:30 pm. Everyone was back in BC late in the morning of 13 September and left camp the same day to return to Kathmandu.

  Mangles believes that it would be wise to pitch a camp between Kyanjin Gompa and the 4996m so-called high camp. "While it can be done relatively easily in one day [from Kyanjin] (that's how he we did it), from an acclimatization perspective, an intermediate camp would help reduce the likelihood of altitude sickness, especially given that a number of younger climbers will/are attempting this peak. As to placing it, I would probably look at half ay between (altitude wise) Kyanjin Gompa and High Camp. There were a number of water sources on the walk in."

  Sherpa etc. summiters:
    Bag Bir Tamang, 26/8/76, Solu, no 8000ers
    Bal Bahadur Tamang, about 35 years old, Rasuwa, no 8000ers
    Karma Gyalzen Sherpa, 31/7/88, Charwa, Sotang-6, Solu, no 8000ers 
      (son of Phurba Pasang, team's sirdar).
    Lama Babu Sherpa, Charwa, Sotang-6, Solu, no 8000ers
    Nawang/Nawang Sherpa, 15/1/80, Sotang-6, Solu, no 8000ers
    Phurba Pasang Sherpa, 6/10/58, Charwa, Sotang-6, Solu, Cho Oyu X5, 
      father of Karma Gyalzen
    Temba Sherpa, 4/9/77, Sotang-6, Solu, Everest X3

  Non-summiting Sherpas:
    Sherku Sherpa, no 8000ers


expid: URMA10101
peakid: URMA
year: 2010
route1: N Face
nation: Finland
leaders: Jussi Tapio Nummelin
sponsor: Baden Powell Scout Peak Expedition
ascent1: 2nd
countries: Nepal
bcdate: 2010-03-29
smtdate: 2010-04-01
termdate: 2010-04-01
campsites: BC(29/03,3900m),C1(30/03,4987m),Smt(01/04)
accidents: Ojala's illness
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  Baden Powell Scout Peak - Finnish 2010 Expedition led by Jossi Tapio Nummelin

  The group left Kathmandu on 20 March and drove to Nepal Scouts camp at Kakani on a hill on the northwestern edge of the Kathmandu Valley. After two days activities there, they were taken by road to Syabru Besi, then trekked eastward along the Langtang Khola to Lama Hotel, Langtang village, and Kyanjin Kharka and Gompa at 3900m, where they made their base camp on 29 March.

  The next day, the 30th, they trekked up to their high camp at 4987m. from high camp on 1st April the summit party scaled the North Face. The top (5890m) was reached by six Finnish members, Haavikko, Mulari, Pietarinen, Pitualainen, Tarashal and Valta, plus a Nepalese Narest Maharjan and six Sherpas, Gomba, Greemen, Ngawang, Phurba Pasang, Sona and Yugel Tenduk. (Naresh, Ngawang and Phurba Pasang had already summited Baden Powell in the autumn of 2007.)

  The summit party spent the night of the 1st at high camp, went back to BC at Kyanjin Gompa on the 2nd, and the team left BC on the 3rd to trek back to Lama Hotel. On the 4th they returned to Syabru Besi and on the 5th of April they were driven from Syabru Besi to Kathmandu and then to their hotel in Bhaktapur.

  During the climb, one Finish member, Ojala, developed pulmonary edema. He was evacuated to Kathmandu on 3 April by a helicopter, which picked him up from a spot in the Langtang Valley between Langtang village and Lama Hotel. The leader told the tourism ministry that there should be one camp between the Gompa and high camp in order for the climbers to acclimatize properly.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Gomba, 3/10/67 (17/6/2024), Kurima, Lokhim-9, Solu, Cho Oyu 3/10/07
    Greemen, 23/8/80 (7/5/2037), Charwa, Sotang-6, Solu, no 8000ers
    Ngawang, 15/1/80 (1/10/2036), Charwa, Sotang-6, no 8000ers
    Phurba Pasang, 6/10/58 (20/6/2015), Charwa, Sotang-6, Solu, Cho Oyu X4
    Sona, 26/6/80 (13/3/2037), Charwa, Sotang-6, Solu, no 8000ers
    Yugel Tenduk, 28/5/85 (15/2/2043), Kurima, Lokhim-9, Solu, no 8000ers


expid: URMA10401
peakid: URMA
year: 2010
route1: E Face
nation: UK
leaders: Richard Struthers
sponsor: Girl Guides UK 2010 to Baden Powell Scout Peak
ascent1: 3rd
bcdate: 2010-11-14
smtdate: 2010-12-17
smttime: 0920
termdate: 2010-12-18
othersmts: Kyanjin Ri
campsites: BC(14/11,4000m),C1(15/11,4900m),Smt(17/12)
agency: Ang Rita Treks
routememo:
  The expedition reached their mountain in Langtang by bus to Syabru Besi, then trekked eastward along the Langtang Khola to Kyanjin Gompa and Kharka. From Kyanjin Kharka they acclimatized by going north and climbing the nearby peak, Kyanjin Ri (4700m). All members summited on 13 November. From Kyanjin Kharka, they followed the Langtang Khola west to the only bridge in the area across the khola, then west-southwest to Pangmelung Kharka (yak grazing ground).

  On the 14th they established BC at 4000m at Pangmelung Kharka. The next day the entire party of 12 members trekked southward to the moraine at the north end of a large unnamed glacier, and here their high camp was pitched at 4900m.

  Struthers gave seven inexperienced members training in all climbing procedures, and that midnight (of 16th/17th December) eight climbing members and three Sherpas followed the glacier south and then on its curve up the beginning of the East Face of their mountain. The glacier was gently sloping frozen snow interrupted by two steep steps of solid ice. The first step was 300m high and its angle was about 60 degrees; the second step was 200m high and 50 degrees steep. On these steps they fixed 600m of rope, and reused 100m of the same rope.

  Two climbers, Clarke and Trudgett, got to only 5200m at about 3:00 am, were now exhausted and returned to high camp while the other six continued to the 5890m summit. It was a fine day: no wind, clear sky. Struthers arrived at the top at 9:20 am.

  The other members, Allen, Arnold, Falconer, Jack and Sainty, plus Sherpas Nima Kancha, Kami Rita and Pemba Gyalzen, joined him at 9:45 am. The summiters were back in high camp at 3:30 pm.

  Sherpas:
    Kami Rita, 17/1/70, Thami, Everest X15, Cho Oyu X4
    Nima Kancha, 15/5/80, Pare, Namche-6, Everest X3
    Pemba Gyalzen, 22/7/69, Thamiteng, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X3, Manaslu X1


expid: YAKA10301
peakid: YAKA
year: 2010
route1: S Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Hidenobu Tsuji
sponsor: Shizuoka Yakawa Kang South Face Expedition
ascent1: 1st
bcdate: 2010-11-03
smtdate: 2010-11-07
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2010-11-09
campsites: BC(03/11,5416m),Smt(07/11)
achievment: 1st ascent
agency: Himalayan Journeys
routememo:
  BC at Thorang La.

  The two-member expedition was actually a one-man effort: Iyama did not instend to climb above BC.

  The only climbing member (the leader, Hidenobu Tsuji) stayed in BC, which was at the Thorong La in Mustang while the three Sherpas spent two days fixing the route up the South Face from 5700m to 6300m, where their supply of rope for fixing was used up. (From there to the summit, the climbers roped together, and in steep places they used climbing ropes, which they fixed and then pulled up behind them.)

  The Sherpas had a rest day, and then Tsuji and they went for the summit from BC (5416m) on 7 November. They left BC on 7 November at 1:45 am and gained the summit at 1:00 pm. Parts of the route were steep (70 degrees) and parts gentle slopes. It was exposed rock to 6050m, then mixed snow and ice. During the rock climbing, there was some rock fall, but they were protected by their helmets and not injured.

  They had made the first ascent of Yakawa Kang.

  They returned to BC at 6:30 pm "very tired" by the long day's climb, Tsuji said. They rested for a day before leaving BC on the 9th.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Norbu, aka Ang Danu, October 1959, Khunde, Everest 16/5/89
    Dawa Tshering, 10/9/81, Khunde, Everest X2, Kangchenjunga X1
    Tshering Tashi, 30/4/80, Khunde, Everest X3


expid: YANS10301
peakid: YANS
year: 2010
route1: S Face of WSW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Makoto Kuroda
sponsor: Team Frozen Moss Expedition to Mt. Dhagpahe
bcdate: 2010-09-20
smtdate: 2010-10-05
termdate: 2010-10-09
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to loose rock falling
campsites: BC(20/09,3800m),ABC(25/09,4800m),xxx(05/10,5800m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  High point on South Face of WSW Ridge.

  This mountain in the Langtang Himal has several names. The tourism ministry calls it Dhagpahe with the name Yansa Tsenji in parentheses, which is the name the Japanese knew it by. Some Nepalese trekking maps say it is Dragpoche.

  The two-member Japanese team approached it from the west, trekked eastward along the Langtang Khola to Kyanjin Kharka and north to Ryunjshung Kharka. They made their BC on 20 September at 3800m at Ryunjshung Kharka because it was raining when they reched the area. In improved weather on the 25th, they made ABC 1000m higher on moraine at the north end of Yala Tsang Glacier.

  But the weather turned, and they retreated to BC on the 26th for two nights, returned to ABC on the 28th, then back to BC in the rain on the 30th.

  Finally they began to make some progress. They returned to ABC on 3 October and two days later, on the 5th, they climbed the South Face of the WSW Ridge to 5800m. Here they found a lot of falling rock, loosened by rain that had melted the snow or ice that normally held it in place, and they immediately went back to ABC. The next day they were in BC. They had abandoned the climb.

  They did return to ABC on the 8th but only to clear the camp. They left BC on the 9th.

  The team had originally planned to climb the mountain by a rib on the South Face, but there were many crevasses on this face and here, too, there was falling rock.


expid: LUGU10301
peakid: LUGU
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge from N
nation: France
leaders: Renaud Guillaume
sponsor: French on Bhrikuti
ascent1: 1st
bcdate: 2010-10-29
smtdate: 2010-11-02
termdate: 2010-11-04
othersmts: Climbed Chulu Far East on 21 Oct and Bhrikuti Shail (BHRS-103-01) on 1 Nov
campsites: BC(29/10,5000m),Biv1(30/10,5500m),Biv2(31/10,6070m),Smt(01/11)
routememo:
  The three French climbers with no Sherpas went to Manang and up into Mustang to climb a variety of small and medium-sized peaks which were "trekking peaks," unauthorized peaks, and one on the expedition permitted list, Bhrikuti, for which they had no permit. They started in Manang with Chulu Far East, which all three of them summited on 21 October, a minor unnamed peak nearby; both of these are not on the permitted list. Then they headed for Pisang Peak, but turned away from it when they saw deep snow on the north face and turned instead to an unnamed peak northwest of it.

  Their next target was Bhrikuti Sail in Mustang. They pitched their BC on 29 October at 5000m southeast of the mountain, and bivouacked the next day at 5500m near the south tongue of a glacier and below the rock wall at the bottom of the South Face. On the 31st they moved up to their second bivouac at about 6070m halfway up the face on a slope between two crevasses.

  On 1 November the three members went to the summit of Bhrikuti Sail from the South Face to the SW Ridge, then returned to their second bivouac site.

  On 2 November Guillaume went east from the second bivouac to a 6910m mountain called Lugula, which was very close, summited it and rejoined his teammates, after which the trio descended to the first bivouac site. On 3 November they were in BC, and their climbing was finished. They trekked to Jomsom, and on the 12th flew to Pokhara and Kathmandu.


expid: TAWA08201
peakid: TAWA
year: 2008
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Makoto Hamamura
sponsor: Sagarmatha Club Japan Yakawa Kang Expedition
approach: Bus to Pokhara->fly to Jomsom->Muktinath->Kharka I->Kharka II
bcdate: 2008-08-12
smtdate: 2008-08-14
termdate: 2008-08-15
termnote: Abandoned at 5970m on Tawa peak due to bad snow conditions (waist deep snow)
othersmts: Held permit for Yakawa Kang (did not climb)
campsites: BC(12/08,5500m),C1(13/08,5700m),xxx(14/08,5970m)
accidents: Ishihara blood supply to brain got problem while flying to Kathmandu by helicopter on 22 Aug
achievment: First attempt
agency: Sherpa Summit Treks
primid: YAKA08201
routememo:
  BC at near the lake
  C1 on the west ridge.

  The team got permit for Yakawa Kang, but its intention was to climb Tawa (6110m).

  Iga, Matsushima, Murakami, Nakai, Sato, Uchida, Kami Sherpa, Lhakpa Sherpa, Kaji Sherpa and Gyalzen Sherpa left C1 at 5:45 am, reached at 5970m at 9:23 am. It was not possible for the team to continue farther up because of waist-deep snow. They descended to C1 at 11:20 am and BC at 1:13 pm. Hamamura, Kawasaki and Tominaga remained at BC. They had headache. 

  Akihata, Koga, Okano, Saito, Satoo and Tanaka returned to Muktinath from about 5000m. They did not reach BC; they had headaches. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu at 5 am on 23 Aug and will leave same day for Japan.

  Tawa Peak is north-northwest of Yakawa Kang.


expid: AMAD10333
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Harald Hoell
sponsor: Austrian Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->Gorakshep->Dingboche->Chhukung->Pangboche
bcdate: 2010-11-10
smtdate: 2010-11-16
smttime: 1045
termdate: 2010-11-20
campsites: BC(10/11,4600m),C1(13/11,5450m),C2(14/11,6000m),C3(15/11,6300m),Smt(16-17/11)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Stogner and Hoell reached summit on 16 November at 10:45 am. They spent 15 minutes on the summit and descended to BC same day. 

  Ommer summited on 17 November and descended to BC same day. 

  Werner Strittl went up to 5800m on 14 November; he got sick and did not try for summit.


expid: BARU10310
peakid: BARU
year: 2010
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Valerie Pitkethly
sponsor: Two Women on Baruntse
countries: UK
approach: Jatrala->Hinku Valley->Mera La->Hunku
bcdate: 2010-10-17
smtdate: 2010-10-22
termdate: 2010-10-25
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(17/10,5400m),C1(22/10,6100m),xxx(22/10,6100m)
agency: Kang Kora Treks
routememo:
  Hicks, Pitkethly and Nga Tenji went up to C1 at 6100m. Due to bad weather conditions the team gave up the climb.

  Sherpa:
    Nga Tenji Sherpa, 28/2/80 (16/11/2036), Nurbugaon, Makalu-9, Everest X5, 
      Manaslu X1

  Pitkethly will be going to Manaslu area to see a medical project there. Hicks departare is not sure.


expid: CHOY10340
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Alberto Sanmartin
sponsor: Aragon Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-09-12
smtdate: 2010-09-25
termdate: 2010-09-26
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to bad weather and Sanmartin's health problem
campsites: BC(12/09,4950m),ABC(15/09,5700m),C1(25/09,6400m),xxx(25/09,6400m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 4950m IC on 14 Sept at 5300m.

  Sanmartin and Vilalta spent night at 6400m on 25 Sept. They gave up their climb due to bad weather and also due to the health problem of Sanmartin.


expid: EVER10304
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Nobukazu Kuriki
sponsor: Nobukazu Kuriki Solo Everest Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2010-09-04
smtdate: 2010-10-01
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2010-10-03
termnote: Abandoned at 7750m due to strong wind and risk of avalanche
campsites: BC(04/09,5300m),C1(15/09,6000m),C2(27/09,6400m),C3(29/09,7100m),xxx(01/10,7750m)
agency: Bochi Bochi Treks
routememo:
  Kuriki started his climb towards C4 from C3 at 5:05 am on 1 Oct. He reached 7750m at 1 pm. There was strong wind and weather was bad; then he turned around to C3 where he arrived at 3:40 pm. He spent the night there and next day to BC.

  Rope: There was fixed line put up by Japanese Lhotse expedition to 7600m. Kadothani's Lhotse team also was supposed to cover filming climbing of Kuriki. The team had four additional Sherpas to fix the line on the route.


expid: KAG110301
peakid: KAG1
year: 2010
route1: W Ridge via N Glacier
nation: Germany
leaders: Steffen Klassert
sponsor: Dolpo Triple Expedition to Norbu Kang
approach: Kanta Gaton BC->Phoksundu->Pungmo->Kagmara Pass
bcdate: 2010-10-21
smtdate: 2010-10-21
termdate: 2010-10-23
termnote: Abandoned at 4900m due to snowstorm
othersmts: Climbed Norbu Kang (NORB-103-01) and Kanta Gaton (KAGA-103-01)
campsites: BC(21/10,4900m),xxx
agency: Adventure Geo Treks
primid: NORB10301
routememo:
  The five-member Kagmara Peak team arrived BC on 21 Oct at 4900m. Snowfall started in the afternoon. It continued on 22 October and in the afternoon it became heavy along with thunderstorms. 

  The team due to lack of time could not wait for another day and left BC on 23 Oct.


expid: LHOT10304
peakid: LHOT
year: 2010
route1: W Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Masaru Kadotani
sponsor: Mt. Lhotse Japanese team
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2010-09-04
smtdate: 2010-09-27
smttime: 6400
termdate: 2010-10-04
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to bad snow conditions and danger of avalanche
campsites: BC(04/09,5350m),C1(26/09,6100m),C2(27/09,6400m),xxx(27/09,6400m)
agency: Bochi Bochi Treks
routememo:
  Ishii, Kadotani, Keshab Gurung, Bibas Gurung and Phurba Bhote spent 4 days in C2 waiting for good conditions of snow. They went down to BC on 2 Oct giving up the climb.

  Hired:
    Keshab Gurung, 31/3/79, Laprak-4, Gorkha, Manaslu X2
    Bibas Gurung, 6/6/88 (24/02/2045), Hatiya-5, Makalu
    Phurba Bhote, 7/5/76 (25/01/2033), Hatiya-1, Makalu


expid: LIK210301
peakid: LIK2
year: 2010
route1: W Ridge
nation: Norway
leaders: Halvor Dannevig
sponsor: Likhu Chuli Expedition 2010
approach: Singati->Beding->Tsho Rolpo->HC 5000m->Pig Pherago Glacier at Col
bcdate: 2010-11-03
smtdate: 2010-11-05
termdate: 2010-11-06
termnote: Abandoned at 5700m due to AMS
campsites: BC(03/11,4006m),C1(04/11,5500m),xxx(05/11,5700m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Dannevig and Nytroen while going to BC suffered from AMS. Then went down to Simigaon (2000m), had medication and rested for one week. Then they went up again. At 4200m Nytroen suffered from pulmonary edema on 25 Oct. They went down again to Simigaon and had rest and medication. Finally they went up to 5700m and again Dannevig got AMS and they gave up the expedition. 

  Route difficulty 60-degree snow peak climbing, Grade 3, 1100m in length from high camp. 

  On the way back to Kathmandu, they climbed Yalung Ri (5663m) on 7 Nov; it took them 8 hours from valley floor to summit and back.


expid: MANA10321
peakid: MANA
year: 2010
route1: NE Face
nation: Iran
leaders: Azim Barhmani
sponsor: International Manaslu Expedition
approach: Suti Khola->Maccha Khola->Jagat->Ngyak->Namrung->Samagaon
bcdate: 2010-09-10
smtdate: 2010-09-29
termdate: 2010-10-01
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to strong wind and loss of energy
campsites: BC(10/09,4900m),C1(13/09,5500m),C2(22/09,6800m),C3(29/09,7400m),xxx(29/09,7400m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  On their summit push Barhmani and Ritemba were at C4 at 7400m on 29 Sept. Wind started picking up, very strong wind (and Barhmani wrote in his daughter's email that he lost his tent at C2 and also lost his energy). The expedition was called off on 29 Sept.

  Sherpa:
    Ritemba Sherpa, 8/5/1970 (25/1/2027), Yaphu-9, Makalu


expid: CHOY10341
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Renato Bernard
sponsor: Mountain Kingdom Expedition to Cho Oyu
countries: Germany
approach: Lhasa->Gyangtse->Xigatse->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-09-09
smtdate: 2010-09-21
termdate: 2010-10-01
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to bad weather and avalanche danger
campsites: BC(09/09,4900m),C1(12/09,5700m),C1(15/09,6400m),C2(21/09,7100m),xxx(21/09,7100m)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Ambrosino, Bernard, Haeusel, Leviti and Chhiring (Tshering) Jangbu Sherpa went up to C2 on 21 Sept. Due to bad weather conditions and danger of avalanches the climbers gave up further climbing.

  Sherpa:
    Chhiring (Tshering) Jangbu Sherpa, 01/8/1977, Rakshi Kharka, Lokhim-9, 
      Lhotse X2, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X2


expid: PUMO10305
peakid: PUMO
year: 2010
route1: W Face (to 5800m)
route2: SW Ridge (to 6150m)
nation: Norway
leaders: Gunnar Sund
sponsor: Norwegian West Face Pumori Expedition
countries: USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Tengboche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2010-10-29
smtdate: 2010-11-15
termdate: 2010-11-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to route difficultly
campsites: BC(29/10,5400m),C1(09/11,5600m),xxx(10/11,5800m);C1(12/11,6100m),xxx(15/11,6800m)
agency: Tshering Pande Bhote
routememo:
  West Face:
   
  Before the leader and members reached BC on 6 Nov, a team of four Nepalese: Dawa Finjo Lama Bhote, Temba Bhote, Pema Lama Bhote and Chhiring Thinduk Bhote reached BC on 29 October. As told by Dawa Bhote, he and Temba Bhote put up a deposit camp at 5800m on 4 or 5 November and spent the night there. Around 9 November C1 was set up at 5600m, 200m below on the left side of deposit camp by all four Bhotes. They also put up 600m of ropes on the same route same day and slept at C1. Next morning the Bhote team started fixing 200m more ropes on the route. The route was around 70-degrees steep with snow, ice and rocks. With the sunshine, snow on the route started melting and it became difficult to fix ropes on the loose rock face. They reported the conditions to BC and decided to call off the attempt on the West Face route. They removed C1 and descended to BC the same day on 10 November.

  SW Ridge:

  Sund wrote in his email dated 10 Dec 2010 that the initial plan to climb the West Face had to be canceled due to rock fall and too dangerous a route. Then the team decided to try on SW Ridge, where already an Italian team had started to climb. On 12 November, Dawa and Temba went up to C1 (6100m approx) and also fixed ropes up to 6400m on SW Ridge route. Both spent night at C1. On 14 November Loberant, Rawski, Sund, Tommeras, Pema and Chhiring started from BC for C1. Sund and Rawski turned around to BC from approx 6000m as Sund was not feeling well. Loberant, Tommeras, Pema and Chhiring continued to C1. On 15 November Dawa and Temba climbed together  with two Italian climbers and reached 6800m. Dawa said that it was getting late (about 5 pm) and they started descending while the two Italians continued further up. Dawa and Temba met Loberant, Tommeras, Pema and Chhiring at 6500m approx it was already dark and there was no place to put tent. They descended to 6400m approx where they found a suitable place to fix a tent and spent the night there. Loberant and Tommeras decided to give up the climb and the next day all went down to BC.

  High point on SW Ridge.
    Dawa and Temba - 6800m on 15 Nov.

  Fixed rope: 
    West Face - 1000m
    SW Ridge - 1500m

  Hired:
    Dawa Finjo Lama Bhote, 5/9/88 (20/5/2045), Hungung, Hatiya
    Temba Bhote, 5/12/73 (20/8/2030), Hungung, Hatiya-3
    Pekma Lama, aka Pema Lama, 14/12/76 (29/8/2033), Hatiya-3
    Chhiti Thinduk Bhote, aka Chhiring Thinduk, 25/8/81 (9/5/2038), Hatiya-3


expid: AMAD10334
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Tim Mosedale
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Germany, Ireland, USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2010-11-06
smtdate: 2010-11-19
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2010-11-23
campsites: BC(06/11,4350m),C1(08/115550m),C2(11/11,6000m),C3(18/11,6250m),Smt(19,21/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Meessen, Timms, Walker and Chhyang Jyabu Bhote started their summit push from C3 at 9 am and got to the top at 2:30 pm. They stayed on top for 15 minutes then returned to C3 at 4:30 pm where they sent the night and next day went down to BC. Summit day weather was very good, but very windy and very cold.

  Brown, Humphrey, O'Rourke, Wade and Lhakpa Wongchu reached summit at around 08:55 am on 21 November. They stayed on summit for about 10 minutes. They returned to BC on 22 November.

  Armstrong went up to 6300m on 20 November. 
  Brownsdon went up to 6100m on 20 November. 
  O'Donovan's high point was 5900m. 
  High point for Porter was 6250m on 20 November. 
  Sargeant climbed up to 6100m on 20 November. 
  Van-Rooss went up to C2. 
  Weller went up to 6400m on 18 November, turned around due to breathing problem.  Mosedale remained at BC.

  Hired:
    Chhyang Jyabu Bhote, 12/7/236, Hatiya-1


expid: MANA10322
peakid: MANA
year: 2010
route1: NE Face
nation: USA
leaders: Steve Marolt
sponsor: Aspen Alpine Club Ski Manaslu Expedition
bcdate: 2010-09-16
smtdate: 2010-10-02
termdate: 2010-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to bad weather and icy conditions above
campsites: BC(16/09,4700m),C1(20/09,5500m),C2(02/10,6400m),xxx(6400m)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  Got to [lower] C2 site but did not sleep there. Spent 7 or 8 nights at C1 waiting for weather. Did ski from C1 numerous times. BC approximately Sept 15. C1 first night was probably around 20 Sept. C2 on 2 Oct.

  Hired:
    Rinji Sherpa
    Sanu Sherpa
    Kusang Tenzing Sherpa (sirdar) (BC only)

  Rinji and Sanu also worked with Richard Bolt's team which was on the same permit.


  Progress report (taken from diary of Jim Gile):

  14 Sep - Flight to Sama (by helicopter)
  15 Sep - Rest day in Sama (rain all day)
  16 Sep - Hike to BC (3 hours, rain all day)
  17 Sep - Carry to Crampon Pt. (rain all day)
  18 Sep - Rest day at BC (rain all day, Mehlman left BC, returned to Sama)
  19 Sep - Rest day at BC (snowed overnight)
  20 Sep - Moved to C1 (good weather)
  21 Sep - C1 back to BC
  22 Sep - Rest day at BC (resume raining by late morning)
  23 Sep - Rest day at BC (rain/snow all day, heavy snow higher on mountain)
  24 Sep - Rest day at BC (still inclement weather)
  25 Sep - BC to C1 (left 7:45 am, arrived noon)
  26 Sep - Stayed at C1 (4 inches overnight snow)
  27 Sep - Skied back to BC
  28 Sep - Rest day at BC
  29 Sep - Rest day at BC
  30 Sep - Rest day at BC
  01 Oct - BC to C1
  02 Oct - C1 to C2 site to BC (reached C2 site about 12:45, icy conditions, low
           visibility, and received report of avalanching above, thus decided to
           return to C1, then to BC)
  03 Oct - Rest day at BC (team decided to abandon expedition)
  04 Oct - Cleaned C1 (skied down with loads)
  05 Oct - BC to Sama
  06 Oct - Sama to Ktm (by helicopter)


expid: DHA110303
peakid: DHA1
year: 2010
nation: France
leaders: Gregory Costa
sponsor: French Ski Expedition
bcdate: 2010-09-28
smtdate: 2010-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 5600m due to deep snow and high winds
campsites: BC(28/09,4700m),C1(05/10,5600m)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Remarks on Debriefing done on 21.10.2010:

  Big avalanche, 4 died (3 Japanese and 1 Sherpa); too much snow, often too much wind, too dangerous.

  Guide:
    Damai Sing Tamang, 26 years on (21/2/2038) 3/6/81, Narayansthan-9, Kavre


expid: CHOY10344
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: Georgia
leaders: Gia Tortladze
sponsor: Georgia Without Russian Occupiers
termnote: Did no climbing
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  The consular section of the Chinese embassy in Kathmandu refused to endorse Tortladze's visa for entry into China/Tibet. Perhaps it was because he had a diplomatic passport (he was a member of Georgia's parliament in 2006) as well as an ordinary passport.

  Tortladze waited in Kathmandu for six days for permission to enter Tibet to climb Cho Oyu. When it was still not granted, he gave up and went home.


expid: MANA10323
peakid: MANA
year: 2010
route1: NE Face
nation: USA
leaders: Bo Parfet
bcdate: 2010-09-16
smtdate: 2010-09-29
termdate: 2010-09-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to bad weather and lack of time
campsites: BC(16/09,4850m),C1(20/09,5500m),C2(27/10,6650m),xxx(29/10,7000m)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  Bo Parfet - 26 April 2011

  I traveled with Steve Marolt's group, shared base camp services with them, but was climbing on my own. I arrived at BC the same time they did (we shared a heli from Kathmandu), but I left much earlier than they did. I also almost got to my/our high camp (our Camp 3 but Russell Brice's's Camp 4) by myself, carrying skis. Then skied down to base camp and took a heli out.


  Bo Parfet - 25 April 2011

  Can you please provide us with the details of your 2010 Manaslu expedition:

  The names and summit dates of any summiters: nobody made the summit.

  The names of any Sherpa climbing assistants above base camp: Can't remember, Kari Kobler would know. Our team had two Sherpa's. I kind-of had my own, but not really.

  The location and dates of your campsites: Base Camp (150 yards From Russell Brice's). Camp 1 (right near Kenton Cool's). Camp 2 (right near Kenton's camp 3). Camp 3 (right near Kenton's Camp 4).

  Arrival and departure dates from base camp: Not exactly sure, but I think we arrived at BC on Sept 18th, 2010. I departed Base Camp on Oct 1st, 2010.

  The reason for termination if you were not successful: I ran out of vacation days from work.

  Any notable route details of your team: We were trying to be the first American's to ski down the mountain.


  Jim Gile - 13 & 16 May 2011

  Parfet initially climbed with the Marolt group, but then split off with Richard Bolt's team for his summit attempt on 27-29 Sept. Parfet turned around below C3 on 29 Sept, descended to BC, and left BC on 30 Sept for Samagaon to fly back to Kathmandu the next day.

  Parfet did not have his own Sherpa, but was assisted by Sherpas from the Marolt and Bolt teams.


expid: CHOY10343
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Deok-Jin
sponsor: 2010 Gyeonggi-do Korea Cho Oyu Mt. Shishapangma Expedition
approach: Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-09-03
smtdate: 2010-10-17
termdate: 2010-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to high winds and avalanche danger
othersmts: Attempted Xixabangma (BC only)
agency: Sarang San Treks
campsites:
  CBC(03/09,4900m),IC(05/09,5300m),ABC(06/09,5700m),C1(12/09,6300m),C2(14-15/09,6900m),C3,xxx(17/10,8000m)

routememo:
  BC at CBC/Mid-camp on 5 Sept at 5300m.

  On 17 Oct So, Ang Gyalzen, Dawa and Tibetans Dorje and Pasang, attempted for summit, but due to high wind and danger of avalanche they turned around from 8000m. 

  High points for members and Sherpas:
    Jung - BC only
    Kang - C3
    Kim Beom-Su, Ryu, Nam and Yoo - C2
    Kim Deok-Jin - C1 
    Chhiji Nurbu above C3

  Sherpas:
    Ang Gyalzen, 19/4/84, Bakachol-9, Khotang, Everest X1
    Dawa Gelji, 18/04,75, Chankhu-4, Dolakha, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2
    Dawa Wangchu, 17/12/72, Makalu-9 (Oh's Sherpa), Kang X4, Everest X3, etc
    Chhiji Nurbu, 30/07/80, Makalu-9, Upper Walung-9, Mathilow, Walung,
       Makalu X1, Anna I X3

  Note: Captain of the expedition Park Hyeok-Su had to leave Cho Oyu BC after a few days due to business back in Korea.


expid: DING10101
peakid: DING
year: 2010
nation: UK
leaders: Simon Yates
bcdate: 2010-04-04
smtdate: 2010-04-06
termdate: 2010-04-12
termnote: Abandoned due to loose rock on Chutangpo Drakshi
othersmts: Attempted 6283m Chutangpo Drakshi (to 6000m)
campsites: BC(04/04,4590m),ABC(06/04,5400m),xxx
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  06/4 ABC side of glacier Chhitinzo Glacier, others down to BC
  08/4 Yates and Sonam got onto SW Ridge at 6000m to have a look - back to BC
  09/4 all up to ABC
  10/4 from ABC went northwest for top via extension of glacier up couloir;
       Yates, Nash, Cunningham, Gearing, and Sonam left ABC to 5710m 11:00 am;
       Sonam to top of couloir 6000m, but he was kicking loose rocks 
       which hit Nash 4 times, both others 2 times and Yates not hit; 
       so retreated to BC at 5:00 pm.

  End of climb - none tired

  Left BC 12/4, leave Nepal 18/4 

  Fox to ABC only, not feeling well to go higher
  Noah to BC only, not ready to climb

  Sherpa:
    Sonam, Pangboche, 22 yrs old


expid: LANG10101
peakid: LANG
year: 2010
route1: SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Oh Hyung-Gun
sponsor: 2010 Himalaya Langtang Lirung Korea Snow-Rock Expedition
approach: Lama Hotel->Langtang->Kyanjin Gompa
bcdate: 2010-04-15
smtdate: 2010-04-29
termdate: 2010-05-02
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to large rock on route
campsites: BC(15/04,4500m),xxx(29/04,6700m)
agency: NE-KO Treks
routememo:
  The team mentioned in the Ministry debriefing that climbers could not go further up due to a great rock on the route.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Tenjen, 21/12/74 (6/9/2031), Makalu-5
    Mingma Thinduk, 14/4/69 (2/1/2026), Makalu-5, Nurbugaon, Everest X2, Lhotse X1


expid: CHOY10119
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Charles Hedrich
sponsor: The Highest Afghan in the World Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-04-18
smtdate: 2010-05-12
termdate: 2010-05-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7050m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(18/04,4900m),ABC(5750m),C1(6400m),C2(12/05,7050m),xxx
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 4900m 
  CBC/IC at 5300m.


  From Charles Hedrich's official website.

  The expedition followed the habitual program of acclimatization; after old Tingri 4342m, the Chinese base camp is at 4900m and the intermediate camp is at 5300m.


expid: PUTH10304
peakid: PUTH
year: 2010
route1: NE Face
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Paul Boslooper
sponsor: Dutch Putha Hiunchuli Expedition 2010
ascent1: 38th
approach: Nepalgunj->Juphal->Tarakot->Kakkot
bcdate: 2010-10-01
smtdate: 2010-10-08
termdate: 2010-10-12
campsites: BC(01/10,4900m),ABC(03/10,5400m),C2(05/10,6100m),C3(07/10,6400m),Smt(08/10)
agency: Kailash Himalayan Treks
routememo:
  Sherpas:
    Kaji Sherpa, 20/12/70 (5/9/2027), Khijiphalate-9, Okhaldhunga
    Ang Jangbu Sherpa, 48 yrs, same village


expid: CHOY10345
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: China
leaders: Wangchen Sonam
sponsor: Holy Mountain Adventure Cho Oyu Expedition 2010
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
smtdate: 2010-09-17
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to heavy snow, avalanche danger and avalanche accident
campsites: BC,ABC(5700m),C1(6400m),C2(7200),xxx(17/09,8100m)
accidents: 7 rope team members injured in avalanche at about 7800m on 17 Sept
agency: Holy Mountain Adventure
routememo:
  18 Chinese clients split into two groups of 9:

      Group A                        Group B
    Liu Yong-Zhong                 A-Cang (nickname)
    Wei Jing                       An-Qian (nickname)
    Miao Ke                        Gu Jian
    Zhou Xu-Zhong                  Gao Zhi
    Li Hong                        K-D (nickname)
    Yu Guan-Rong                   Da-Yong (nickname)
    Yang Jun                       Gu Bing
    Jiang Jun                      Ya-Ya (nickname)
    Zheng-Jun Piao                 Liu Jun
      (Akira Hitoshi Kimoto?)
      (Japanese of Chinese origin)

  7 rope team members injured in avalanche at about 7800m on 17 Sept [when returning down from fixing ropes?]. Tashi Phuntsok was the most seriously injured and was evacuated on a stretcher. Other 6 received minor injuries and walked down by themselves.


expid: NUPK64101
peakid: NUPK
year: 1964
route1: W Ridge
nation: W Germany
leaders: Rudi Rott
ascent1: 1st?
bcdate: 1964-04-04
smtdate: 1964-04-06
othersmts: Climbed Jasemba Goth (JASG-641-01); attempted Cho Oyu (CHOY-641-01)
campsites: BC(04/04,5200m),Smt(06/04)
achievment: 1st ascent
primid: CHOY64101
routememo:
  Fritz Stammberger - 31 August 1974

  On 1964 Cho Oyu expedition, 2 days after base camp established, Stammberger and Aila Sherpa climbed a 6600m peak [Nupche Himal] nearby via its West Ridge and 2 days after that he and Georg Huber climbed Jasamba Ri [Jasamba Goth] (6730m) from its West Ridge.


expid: AMAD11101
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Valeri Babanov
sponsor: Ama Dablam Russian Expedition
bcdate: 2011-04-04
smtdate: 2011-04-07
termdate: 2011-04-08
termnote: Abandoned at 5500m due to terrain difficulty for Babanov's partner/client
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(04/04,3915m),ABC(06/04,5100m),C1(07/04,5500m),xxx(07/04,5500m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  The two Russians first climbed Island Peak. They arrived at Chhukung village on 31 March and made it their base. They summited on 3 April and moved directly to Pangboche village on the 4th for their base from which to launch their attack on Ama Dablam.

  On the 6th, they went from Pangboche to their ABC at 5100m and next day to C1 at 5500m. There was snow on the mountain, and on the morning of 8 April it was snowing gently; 20 cm. of fresh snow had already fallen.

  Now they decided to abandon their climb. Schekoldin "was not a sportsman," Babanov explained, and he found the terrain difficult for him, especially with the heavy pack he had to carry since they had no Sherpas with them.

  So instead of continuing towards the summit, they turned down and descended all the way to Pangboche that day. They flew out from Lukla three days later.


expid: ANN111101
peakid: ANN1
year: 2011
route1: N Face (1980 German rte, left of the rib)
nation: Chile
leaders: Adolfo Dell'Orto
sponsor: Annapurna Tras los 14 Ochomiles para Chile
bcdate: 2011-04-02
smtdate: 2011-04-25
termdate: 2011-05-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6720m due to illnesses of two members
campsites: BC(02/04,4180m),ABC(07/04,5000m),C1(09/04,5040m),C2(23/04,6390m),xxx(25/04,6720m)
accidents: Dell'Orto's chest infection; Lagos' swelling glands
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  There was fresh snowfall almost every day while the team was on the mountain, and snow commonly lay knee-deep. Avalanching also occurred almost daily.

  Their route on the North Face was the 1980 German route which led the Germans to the middle summit.

  This team made C1 at 4180m, which was very low but safe from the dangerous avalanches. Dell'Orto and Jorquera made C2 at 6370m on 23 April, then were stuck in the camp on the 24th because of a windstorm. On the 25th, they went higher, but when they reached 6720m, Dell'Orto had to give up because of his serious chest infection. (He had actually had the infection when he had started up from BC, but now his coughing was so bad that he could not climb). They descended to C1 that day; on the 26th they were back in BC, and the climb was over.

  Lagos had swollen glands in his neck throughout the climbing period. He went as high as C1 three times, but could go no higher.

  Dell'Orto left BC on 28 April in a helicopter arranged for themselves by a South Korean expedition. Jorquera and Lagos on the 29th went up to ABC to bring down all the gear the team had left there from higher camps, and they left BC on 1 May to trek for 17 hours to Pokhara to join Dell'Orto, who had been left there by the South Koreans. The three Chileans returned together to Kathmandu by bus on 3 May.


expid: ANN410101
peakid: ANN4
year: 2010
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Ryuseki Hiraoka
sponsor: Ryuseki Expeditions 2010 Annapurna IV
ascent1: 34th
approach: Beni->Jomsom->Thorang La->Hongde
bcdate: 2010-04-18
smtdate: 2010-05-08
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2010-05-10
campsites: BC(18/04,3900m),ABC(20/04,4800m),C1(21/04,5500m),C2(22/04,6100m),C3(01/05,6500m),Smt(08/05)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  On 8 May Hiraoka, Ms Hiraoka, Toji, Shimada, Phurba Chhiri, Lama Babu, Kitap, Pasang left C3 at 00:30 am. Ryuseki Hiraoka, Phurba Chhiring and Lama Babu reached summit at 3 pm, stayed on summit for about 5 minutes and descended to C3. Ms Hiraoka, Toji and Shimada, Kitap and Pasang reached to 7450m. Summit day weather was not good.

  Hired:
    Phurba Chhiri Sherpa, 4/10/68, Lokhim-9, Manaslu X3, Lhotse X2, Cho Oyu X3, 
      Everest X2
    Lama Babu Sherpa, 24/6/69 (10/3/2026), Saframa, Lokhim-2, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Pasang Tamang, 4/12/68 (19/08/2025), Deusa-6, Solu, Everest X2
    Kitap Singh Tamang, 28/8/76 (14/5/2033), Deusa-6, Solu, no 8000ers


expid: CHOY11101
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: Australia
leaders: Benjamin Kane
sponsor: Field Touring Alpine Cho Oyu Expedition 2011
countries: Estonia, France, USA
bcdate: 2011-04-17
smtdate: 2011-05-05
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2011-05-17
accidents: Saluvere's pulmonary edema
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
campsites:
  BC(17/04,4900m),ABC(19/04,5700m),C1(23/04,6400m),C1.5(02/05,6800m),C2(03/05,7200m),C3(04/05,7600m),Smt(05/05)

routememo:
  All members moved up to ABC on 19 April. The next day, it was obvious that Saluvere was seriously ill with from pulmonary edema. She was put on oxygen and carried to BC by Kane and Siddhi Bahadur Tamang to get a Jeep to Kathmandu. Her compatriot Priit Melnik left the expedition with her.

  C1 was established by the remaining three members and Tamang. Conditions on the way to C2 were "hard" with a lot of snowfall in the last week of April and early May, so they made a C1.5 at 6800m on 2 May; it was slept in by Denis and Tamang on 2 May during their push to the summit. On the following day, the 3rd, Kane and Langenwalter made C2 at 7200m.

  But on the 4th, Kane and Langenwalter decided they had not acclimatized well enough; they descended to ABC while Denis, who acclimatized very quickly, and Tamang went on up and pitched C3 at 7600m. Very strong wind during that night forced the two to delay their start for the top on 5th until 5:30 am. There was no fixed rope on the Yellow Band, but they continued to the summit, and Tamang fixed 100m there during their descent to C3. On the 6th they went all the way down to ABC, on the 7th to Zhangmu and on the 8th to Kathmandu. (Denis planned to fly to Lukla on the 10th to join Ryan Waters in an ascent of Lhotse).

  Meanwhile, Kane and Langenwalter had gone up to C2 at 7200m on the 3rd and then down to ABC on the 4th. They began their summit push from ABC to C1 on May 11, slept in C2 on the 12th and in C3 on the 13th. During the night of the 13th very strong wind blew up, and they had to retreat  on the 14th to ABC because Langenwalter had a medical condition that reduces blood circulation, and this made it risky for him to continue climbing in strong cold wind. Their climb was now finished.

  Hired:
    Siddhi Bahadur (Mama) Tamang, 7/6/81, Simigaon, Rolwaling, no 8000ers


expid: CHOY11102
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Francois Devy
sponsor: A Frenchmen on Cho Oyu
bcdate: 2011-04-17
smtdate: 2011-05-09
smttime: 7600
termdate: 2011-05-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to Sherpa's lack of motivation
campsites: BC(17/04,4900m),ABC(19/04,5700m),C1(22/04,6400m),C2(26/04,6800m),C3(27/04,7200m),xxx(09/05,7600m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Devy and Thupen Dorje left C3 (7200m) at 10:30 pm on 8 May in their bid to go the summit. They climbed to 7600m at 3:30 am on the 9th, but now Thukten Dorje did not want to go higher despite the fact that the weather was perfect without any wind. They had little sleep during the previous night when fierce winds battered their tent.

  Thupen Dorje had by now lost all motivation to go higher. Devy said he could not go up alone, so they returned to C3 at 4:30 am, rested there, then Thukten Dorje descend to C1 while Devy went all the way down to ABC.

  Their climb was finished.

  Sherpa:
    Thupen [Thukten] Dorje Sherpa, 30/1/68


expid: EVER11112
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: K. Romeo Meetei
sponsor: Team Arunachal Everest Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Lobuche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2011-04-14
smtdate: 2011-05-09
smttime: 1039
termdate: 2011-05-12
campsites: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(17/04,5800m),C2(23/04,6400m),C4(07/05,7990m),Smt(09/05)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  C4 at South Col.

  Summit push started from BC on 5 May. Mena and Tshering Dorje went to C2 and spent two nights there. They climbed to South Col on 7 May. They left South Col at 8:30 pm on 8 May and got to the top at 10:39 am on 9 May. Mena and Tshering spent about 20 minutes on the top, then descended to South Col where they arrived at 4 pm. On 10 May Mena and Tshering descended to C1 spent night there and on 11 May to BC. On 12 May they took a helicopter to Lukla. 

  Leader of the expedition left BC on 16 April to India. Dr. Meetei returned to Kathmandu on 14 May. 

  The summit day weather was good but while descending wind started picking up below the Hillary Step and snow showered for about 3-4 hours. Mena and Tshering were the only two people who summited on 9 May.

  Sherpa:
    Tshering Dorje Sherpa, 12/10/81 (26/6/2038), Mamerku, Chheskam-2, Everest X1


expid: EVER11117
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Alessandra Pepper
sponsor: An Australian to Everest
bcdate: 2011-04-16
smtdate: 2011-05-12
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2011-05-15
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East (15 April)
campsites: BC(16/04,5350m),C1(21/04,6100m),C2(28/04,6500m),C3(01/05,7200m),C4(11/05,7900m),Smt(12/05)
agency: Mountain Tribes Trekking
routememo:
  C4 at South Col.

  Pepper and Dawa Tenzing summited Lobuche East on 15 April before going to Everest BC.

  They left C4 for the summit at 10:45 pm on 11 May and at 8:30 am of the 12th they arrived at the top, where it was windy (blowing at 50 km/hr) and very cloudy. They stayed for only 15 minutes before descending to C4 at 2:30 pm. They returned to C2 on the 13th and BC on the 14th.

  Pepper used oxygen in C3 to the summit to and in C4. Dawa Tenzing used in C4 to the top to the Balcony (8500m).

  Sherpa:
    Dawa Tenzing Sherpa, 21/3/86, Thamo, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2


expid: EVER11119
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Phil Crampton
sponsor: Altitude Junkies Everest Expedition 2011
countries: Australia, Czech Republic
bcdate: 2011-04-09
smtdate: 2011-05-12
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2011-05-17
campsites: BC(09/04,5350m),C1(18/04,6000m),C2(19/04,7250m),C3(10/05,7250m),C4(11/05,7950m),Smt(12/05)
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  Crampton, Palacky, Watroba, Chhedar, Dorje, Nima Nuru, Pasang Nima and Pasang Wangchu left C4 for the summit at 8:00 pm on 11 May. Watroba, Chhedar and Nima Nuru arrived at the South Summit at 6:00 am on the 12th and continued on to the summit at 8:00 am. The others in the summit party were behind them and by the time these climbers arrived at the South Summit, a fierce wind had blown up; they waited an hour for the wind to die down, and when it stayed very strong, they retreated to C4 at 11:00 am. The summiters joined them back in C4 at 4:00 pm.

  There was a lot of snow at the Balcony (about 8500m) and at C4 (South Col) inside all three of the team's tent's, there was 18 inches of powdered snow that made everything miserably wet.

  The three members and five Sherpas descended to C2 on the 13th and to BC the next day.

  The fourth member, Trott, and her personal Sherpa, Ang Gelu, climbed with the others on the 11th on the way to C4, but at the Yellow Band (about 7600m), she turned back: she was too slow. Ang Gelu went with her as they returned to C2 that day.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Gelu/Gello Sherpa, 23/7/70, Surke, Chaurikharka-4, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Chhedar Sherpa, 19/12/63, Sisuwa-9, Makalu vdc, Everest X4
    Dorje Sherpa, May-June 1965, Phakding, Everest X6
    Nima Nuru, 19/6/67, Chaplung, Chaurikharka-3, Solu, Everest X2
    Pasang Nima, 28/1/74, Chaurikharka, Solu, Everest X1
    Pasang Wangchu, 25/4/87, Cheremy, Bung-9, Solu, Everest X2


expid: KYAS11101
peakid: KYAS
year: 2011
route1: W Face-W Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Nick Bullock
sponsor: British Kyashar Expedition 2011
approach: Hinku Khola->Tangnag
bcdate: 2011-04-13
smtdate: 2011-05-07
termdate: 2011-05-10
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(13/04,5000m),Biv1(06/05,5700m),xxx(07/05,5900m)
agency: Loben Expeditions
routememo:
  BC   at Tangnag village in tent
  Biv1 at col between Kyashar and Kusum Kanguru
  High point on West Ridge.

  They arrived at the tiny village of Tangnag, where they pitched their BC, on 13 April, and spent a week trekking in the area. Then from the 20th, when they wanted to start their climb, to 5 May, "We sat in BC waiting for the daily snowfall and rain to stop."

  Finally, at midnight of the 5th/6th May, the two Britons went up to the col between Kyashar and Kusum Kanguru and bivouacked there at 5700m.

  Their plan was to climb the West Face to the top of the South Buttress onto the West Ridge. On the 7th, they left their bivouac at 5:00 am and traversed onto the West Ridge at 5900m with the idea of bivouacking there. But they were now "wallowing in deep snow [thigh-deep], and we decided with a limited amount of food and the condition of the snow, that we didn't consider climbing 900 meters to reach the summit and returning to base camp in a single push was a viable option," said Bullock. So at 6:00 am they abseiled the buttress and descended all the way to BC, where they arrived at 12:30 pm. Their climb was over.

  They had been attempting a route similar to one successfully climbed by a team led by Bruce Normand of England in the autumn 2003.


expid: MANA11101
peakid: MANA
year: 2011
route1: NE Face
nation: Iran
leaders: Mohammad Hassan Najarian
sponsor: Iranian National Manaslu Expedition 2011
approach: Arughat->Khorsani Bari->Machha Khola->Jagat->Deng->Namrung->Samagaon
bcdate: 2011-04-09
smtdate: 2011-04-29
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2011-05-05
campsites: BC(09/04,4875m),C1(16/04,5800m),C2(17/04,6350m),C3(27/04,6800m),C4(28/04,7400m),Smt(29/04)
accidents: Mir-Shekari died near C3 on 30 April due to high altitude sickness
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Eight members of Iranian team namely Ali Mohammadi, Ali Bayat-Manesh, Bigdeli Nazargholi, Karimi, Kazemi, Maghaddam, Meghdadi and the leader of the expedition Najarian together with Nima Gyalzen, Kailash Tamang, Lakpa Chhiri, Pemba and Ang Tendi Sherpa started their summit push from C4 at 4 am on 29 April. The team reached summit at 3 pm and stayed on summit for about an hour. The summit was a little foggy, windy and a little snow shower. The team descended to C4 at about 8 pm. The team found Mir-Shekari very sick at C4. Najarian contacted expedition Doctor Hamidi and gave medicines, but his condition was not improved. (Mir-Shekari previously had a little headache at C3 and was told not to continue above C3 by the expedition doctor, but he did not listen to him and continued his climb). Mir-Shekari died near C3 in descent on 30 April due to high altitude sickness. The team spent the night at C3. On 1 May all members went down to BC and the dead body was brought down to C2 where Dr. Hamidi and the leader Najarian spent the night. On 2 May the doctor and leader went down to BC. On 5 May the dead body was brought down to BC by Nima, Lakpa, Pemba and two Sherpas of another Iranian expedition. On 6 May the dead body was airlifted from BC to Samagaon; they picked up Najarian and Kazemi [and went] to Jagat where they changed helicopters and flew on to Kathmandu the same day.

  Other member high points:

  Bayat-Manesh, BC manager, went to C3 on 30 April to help bring down the dead body. 

  Dr. Hamidi climbed up to C3 on 27 April and next day he went down to C2. Leader Najarian said that according to Iranian climbing regulations, expedition doctors are not permitted to go to summit. 

  Nadaliyan, the oldest member of the expedition, climbed up to C4 on 28 April with other members and spent the night there. There was no physical problem with him, but he was a bit slow and he decided not to go further up on the grounds that his slow pace may create problems for the climbing team. He went down to C3 with Iman Gurung on 29 April and spent the night there. Next day to C2 and following day to BC.

  Oxygen: 

  Bigdeli Nazargholi, Kazemi and Meghdadi used oxygen from C4. Bigdeli Nazargholi and Meghdadi to summit then to C4; Kazemi from C4 to near the summit and then she did not use.

  This is the first summit team of the season on Manaslu.

  Sherpas;
    Nima Gyalzen, 9/8/85 (25-04-2042), Beding, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X2, Manaslu X1
    Lakpa Chhiri, 18/04/79 (05-01-2036), Khunde, Khumbu, no 8000ers
    Pemba, 28/1/82 (15-10-2038), Lamabagar-1, Dolakha 
    Kailash Tamang, 13/2/82 (02-11-2038), Kanku-5, Solu, Everest X2
    Iman Gurung, 14/3/81 (01-12-2037), Laprak-6, Gorkha, no 8000ers
    Ang Tendi Sherpa


expid: MANA11102
peakid: MANA
year: 2011
route1: NE Face
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Jan Krabec
sponsor: Expedice Manaslu 2011
bcdate: 2011-04-09
smtdate: 2011-04-29
smttime: 1515
termdate: 2011-05-02
campsites: BC(09/04,4750m),C1(12/04,5800m),C2(17/04,6400m),C3(26/04,6800m),C4(27/04,7150m),Smt(29/04)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  An unsuccessful attempt was made to reach the summit on 28 April by six members, Jaros, Knill, Krabec, Pintir, Travnicek and Vanek. They left C4 (7150m) at 5:00 am and had climbed to 7500m by 11:00 am, wading through deep snow. They now decided to turn back to C4 because they felt they were too late for a successful climb to the top and then a safe return to C4. They retreated to C4, where they arrived at 2:00 pm.

  The next day, the 29th, Travnicek and Vanek tried again. They left C4 at 2:30 am and successfully summited at 3:15 pm. They climbed up the couloir and turned left onto the summit ridge. They were late returning to C4: it was 8:30 pm when they finally got into camp.

  The summiters descended all the way to BC on 30 April. The climb was now over and the team left BC two days later, on 2 May.


expid: TUKU11101
peakid: TUKU
year: 2011
route1: N Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Eric Bayard
sponsor: Tukuche 2011 Expedition
bcdate: 2011-05-01
smtdate: 2011-05-05
termdate: 2011-05-06
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to deep snow (risk of avalanche) and bad weather
campsites: BC(01/05,5080m),C1(04/05,5500m),xxx(05/05,5900m)
agency: Khumbu Shangri-La Nepal
routememo:
  On 5 May Richier went up to 5900m to see a possible C2 site. There were deep snow conditions creating the risk of avalanche on the route. Then the team decided to give up and descended to BC. The weather conditions were very bad, every day snowfall and cloudy.


expid: AMAD11102
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Melanie Kreuzer
sponsor: Ace Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Germany
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2011-04-30
smtdate: 2011-05-13
termdate: 2011-05-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to too much snow, risk of avalanche
campsites: BC(30/04,4600m),ABC(11/05,5000m),C1(12/05,5800m),xxx(13/05,6000m)
accidents: Beikirch suffered from high altitude sickness on 12 May at 5300m and went down to BC
agency: Ace the Himalaya
routememo:
  Kreuzer and Pasang Nima left C1 on 13 May hoping to go up, but when they got to 6000m they could not move up due to heavy snow. Then they went down to BC where they arrived at 3 pm.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Nima Sherpa, 1/11/1971 (15/07/2028), Bakachol-9, Khotang, Everest X1


expid: AMAD11103
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Klara Polackova
sponsor: Czech Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 2011-04-28
smtdate: 2011-05-06
termdate: 2011-05-09
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to deep snow and avalanching
campsites: BC(28/04,4600m),C1(02/05,5700m),xxx(06/05,6000m)
agency: Tenzing Asian Holidays
routememo:
  The weather was unfavorable throughout the climb; there was snowfall every day during the team's climbing period.

  To acclamatize, Polackova and her two Sherpas made C1 at 5700m on 2 May and returned to BC the following day.

  On the 5th, they went back to C1 hoping to establish C2 the next day at 6000m. But the snow was waist-deep, which required a lot of time and effort to dig out the fixed line, and they knew no rope had been fixed above C1. They left C1 at 7:00 am; when they had not reached the site for their C2, Polackova turned around and went back to C1 with their gear a 2:00 pm. The Sherpas, who knew there already were two at C2, didn't need to take any with them for that night. They reached C2 at the same time Polackova got back to C1.

  Down in C1, Polackova decided to abandon the climb because of the constant snowfall plus avalanching between C2 and C3. All of them were in BC on the 7th and left on 9 May. They trekked in the area for a few days before returning to Kathmandu.

  Sherpas:
    Singi Lama, 22/10/69 (6/7/2026), Kerung, Sindhupalchowk, no 8000ers
    Min Bahadur (Bijay) Tamang, 18/8/79 (2/5/2036), Lisankhu-5, Sindhu, no 8000ers


expid: ANN111102
peakid: ANN1
year: 2011
route1: NE Buttress (to 6300m)
route2: N Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Hong Bo-Seong
sponsor: Dynamic Busan Annapurna I Expedition
ascent2: 56th
approach: Helicopter to BC
bcdate: 2011-03-24
smtdate: 2011-04-26
smttime: 1345
termdate: 2011-04-28
campsites: BC(24/03,4190m),ABC(27/03,5000m),C1(30/03,5400m),C2(11/04,6400m),C3(25/04,7050m),Smt(26/04)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  Kim and Seo started their summit bid from C3 at 00:30 hours on 26 April in a clear sky and no wind; about 10 am it became cloudy. Kim and Seo got to the top at 13:45 hours and stayed on summit for about 25 minutes. They returned to C3 at 18:00 hours. After summit around 16:00 hours started snow shower and white-out. Other climbers on summit were Kim Jae-Soo and his parter with one Sherpa, Abele Blanc with his two Sherpas. 

  Earlier the Kim team tried to open new route going straight to the wall. The team of Busan, Kim and Seo together with Kim Jae-Soo team went up to 6300m on 31 March. The route was full of seracs which were frequently falling down. There was danger of serac fall so they gave up that way and switched to normal route.

  Fixed rope: 2500m BC - to summit.


expid: BARU11101
peakid: BARU
year: 2011
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Sean James
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Baruntse Expedition Spring 2011
countries: Ireland
approach: Chatra La->Kote->Tangnag->Khare->Mera La->High camp->Kote
bcdate: 2011-04-30
smtdate: 2011-05-07
termdate: 2011-05-11
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to strong wind, waist-deep snow
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak 23 April by all members (except Cates) and Sherpas
campsites: BC(30/04,5450m),C1(02/05,6100m),C2(07/05,6500m),xxx(07/05,6500m)
agency: Makalu Adventure
routememo:
  The team set up its C2 on 7 May at 6450m. Cates, James, Day, Dawa and Phurba went up to 6500m just to look the condition of the climbing route. There was very strong wind and waist-deep snow. It was not possible to continue due to deep snow conditions, so they gave up climbing.

  Day left BC on 9 May via Mera La and might have reached Kathmandu on 11 May and probably left for home on 12 May. 

  Rest of the members returned Kathmandu on 15 May. Brown and Crocker left for home on 16 May, Hennebry left on 17 May and James left on 19 May.

  Fixed rope: 200m above C1.

  Sherpas:
    Phurba Wangchu, 5/12/1975 (19/8/2032), Waku-9
    Dawa Norbu, 13/2/86 (2/11/2042), Makalu-5


expid: BARU11102
peakid: BARU
year: 2011
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Ales Ponec
sponsor: Czech Canada Baruntse Expedition
countries: Czech Republic
approach: Chutanga->Kote->Tangnag->Khare->Tamading->Seto Pokhari
bcdate: 2011-04-22
smtdate: 2011-04-29
termdate: 2011-05-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to stolen climbing gear
campsites: BC(22/04,5400m),ABC(24/04,5700m),C1(29/04,6100m),xxx(29/04,6100m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  High point at 6100m at West Col.

  Ponec and Wenzlova planned to move to C2 on 29 April, but when they got to C1 they found that all climbing gears had been stolen. There was no choice other than calling off the expedition.


expid: BARU11103
peakid: BARU
year: 2011
route1: SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Antoine Melchior
sponsor: Baruntse Expedition
approach: Above Chutanga->Thuli Kharka->Kote->Tangnag->Khare
bcdate: 2011-04-21
smtdate: 2011-05-03
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2011-07-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to bad snow condition, some members illness
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak on 7 May by Blanc
campsites: BC(21/04,5450m),C1(01/05,6100m),xxx(03/05,6800m)
agency: Churen Himal Treks
routememo:
  BC beside the lake
  C1 at West Col.

  Six members out of eight started their summit push from C1 South Col at 4 am on 3 May. Blanc, Chevalier, Melchior, Sikora, Steunou and Vassilev reached 6800m at 11 am, then snowfall started that made their climbing slow and they returned to C1 where they arrived at 2 pm. They spent the night at C1 and next day went down to BC. 

  Bulik stayed at C1 due to breathing problem. Ronayette stayed at BC due to headache.

  Fixed rope: 100m below C2 - West Col.


expid: CHOY11103
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Francesco Fazzi
sponsor: Italian Cho Oyu
bcdate: 2011-04-17
smtdate: 2011-05-09
termdate: 2011-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to strong wind
campsites: BC(17/04,7900m),ABC(20/04,5700m),C1(26/04,6400m),C1.5(06/05,6850m),C2(07/05,7200m),xxx(09/05,7400m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  One member did very little climbing: DeMas began developing cerebral edema from the Tibetan village of Tingri on their drive to BC, and it became more acute in ABC. On 22 April, he returned to Tingri accompanied by Fazzi, came back to the mountain and went up to C1 with his teammates when they established C1 on the 26th. But he soon did not feel well, and back in ABC he decided to abandon the climb. He left on 3 May.

  The remaining two members, Fazzi and Arrigoni, made a C1.5 on 6 May to acclimatize better on their way to C2, which they pitched the following day. They spent two nights in C2: during the first night, the 7th there was a fierce windstorm which damaged many tents (a Bulgarian in C1.5 had a bicycle in his tent for his intended cycle descent from the summit, but the tent and the bicycle in it were blown completely away).

  They stayed one more night a C2 hoping to go directly to the summit from there. But the next morning, Arrigoni decided to stop climbing: she had had a bad night during the windstorm with no sleep, and was too tired to attempt any summit bid.

  That left Fazzi to try with just Pemba Dorje. They left C2 at 1:00 am on the 9th, but at 3:00 am, Fazzi gave up at 7400m and they were back in C2 at 3:30 am. They rested in C2, then at 10:00 am began their descent to C1. They were back in ABC the following day.

  The attempt on Cho Oyu was now abandoned because of wind, snow and the limited amount of time they had left.

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Dorje Sherpa, 1/8/70, Kharikhola, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1


expid: CHOY11104
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Cyril Salomon, Aymeric Vinot
sponsor: Frenchmen on Cho Oyu
bcdate: 2011-04-17
smtdate: 2011-05-13
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2011-05-15
accidents: Vinot's temporary chest infection
agency: Thamserku Trekking
campsites:
  BC(17/04,4900m),ABC(20/04,5700m),C1(25/04,6400m),C1.5(03/05,6800m),C2(04/05,7200m),C3(12/05,7600m),Smt(13/05)

routememo:
  C1.5 was made on the first summit push. The team were the first group to try for the summit, were alone in C1 and slept another team's tent. They arrived in C1.5 on 3 May and moved up to C2 on the 4th.

  They left C2 for the top at 4:00 am (NST). Vinot went to 7900m with Serap, but they returned to C2 because Vinot had a chest infection. Salomon reached 8000m at 1:00 pm; he had to help break trail between C2 and C3 in fresh snow that had fallen during the previous night which took three hours to ascend from C2 to C3 at 7600m, so now it was too late for him to continue his attempt for the summit. Furthermore, large avalanches were gathering. He also retreated to C2. The team returned to ABC on the 5th.

  On the 10th Salomon started a second bid for the top. With Serap, he moved to C1 that day and to C2 on the 11th and on the 12th to C3. On 13 May Salomon and Serap left C3 at 3:00 am, gained the summit at 10:30 am and were back in C2 at 4:00 pm. They returned to ABC on 14th.

  The team's climb was now finished. Vinot was not interested to go up again.

  Sherpa:
    Serap Sherpa, 8/8/72, Taktar, Beni-3, Solu, Everest X5


  Aymeric Vinot - 12 July 2012

  It was Cyril, not me, who summited on 13 May.


expid: CHOY11105
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Max Kausch
sponsor: SummitClimb Cho Oyu Expedition 2011
countries: Canada, Ireland, Italy, Poland, Romania, Switzerland
bcdate: 2011-04-26
smtdate: 2011-05-20
smttime: 1335
termdate: 2011-05-21
campsites: BC(26/04,4900m),ABC(30/04,5700m),C1(06/05,6400m),C2(11/05,7100m),C3(19/05,7450m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  The summit party consisted of five members with two Sherpas: Kausch, McDonald, Pontinen, Toaso and Szabo, with Dawa Jangbu and Philama Tamang. They left C3 for the top at 4:00 am (NST) on 20 May. The summiters were as follows: at 1:35 pm on the 20st, Kausch, McDonald and Dawa Jangbu; at 2:45 pm, Pontinen and Philama. The first party descended to C2 at 4:00 pm, while the second group stopped at C3 at 9:00 pm.

  Toaso and Szabo turned back at 8150m, too tired to go all the way to the top, which was not far in vertical terms, but about an hour's trek horizontally across the plateau.

  Other non-summiting members:

  Cambini reached 7500m on 19 May with the party going to C3; he was too tired to continue and retreated to C2.

  Merz went to 6300m on 5 May, but decided to abandon the climb because of a heart condition; he left the team on 10 May.

  Mooney quit at 5000m on the way to ABC on 30 April; he was very tired and not acclimatizing, and he he left the team the same day.

  Tulit went to C2 on 11 May, but developed a bad chest infection and left from ABC on about the 16th.

  Sukos also got to C2 on 11 May, but now had symptoms of pulmonary edema and left with Tulit on about the 16th.

  The only members who used oxygen were Kausch and McDonald, and they used it from C3 to the summit to C3. The others and the two Sherpas used none at all.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Jangbu Sherpa, 4/6/79, Patle-4, Okhaldhunga, Lhotse X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Philama Tamang, 17/7/76, Haku-8, Rasuwa, Everest X1


expid: CHOY11108
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: Russia
leaders: Rustem Amirov
sponsor: Russian Cho Oyu
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2011-04-21
smtdate: 2011-04-27
termdate: 2011-05-04
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to bad weather
campsites: ABC(21/04,5700m),C1(23/04,6400m),C2(27/04,7100m),xxx(27/04,7100m)
accidents: Amirov suffered from cough and sore throat
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  IC on 20 April at 5200m

  Kuzmin and Amirov started their summit push on 1 May from C2. Amirov with sore throat. The weather was bad, no visibility, no fixed rope and no track above C2, then both went down to ABC.


expid: CHOY11109
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: Romania
leaders: Serban Cristea
sponsor: Test Expedition Cho Oyu 2011
bcdate: 2011-04-17
smtdate: 2011-05-05
termdate: 2011-05-10
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to sickness, chest pain, lung infection
campsites: BC(17/04,5000m),ABC(26/04,5700m),C1(05/05,6400m),xxx(05/05,6400m)
agency: Ramdung Expedition
routememo:
  Cristea waited from 6-10 May at ABC hoping to improve from his sickness, but he did not. Then he gave up the climb.


expid: CHOY11110
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: Poland
leaders: Robert Cholewa
sponsor: Cho Oyu Expedition 2011
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2011-04-17
smtdate: 2011-05-13
smttime: 1045
termdate: 2011-05-19
campsites: BC(17/04,4900m),ABC(21/04,5700m),C1(23/04,6400m),C2(05/05,7100m),C3(11/05,7450m),Smt(13,17/05)
agency: Himalayan Ecstasy Treks
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 20 April at about 5400m.

  First attempt was made on 12 May by Tomala and Lhakpa by leaving C3 at 8 am (CST). When they arrived at 7800m strong wind started picking up and forced both Tomala and Lhakpa to turn around all the way down to ABC.

  On 13 May Grudzien and Stanczak left C3 at 5:30 am CST for the summit. Stanczak was exhausted and turned around from 7600m to C3. Grudzien continued for the summit and reached to the top at 1 pm (10:45 am NST). He stayed on the summit for about 30-40 minutes and descended to C3 where he arrived at about 5 pm. Both Grudzien and Stanczak spent the night at C3. Next day 14 May both went down to ABC. The weather, during ascent was clear. Grudzien had good view of Everest and Lhotse and he saw prayer flags on the summit. While descending there was little wind and cloud. A French climber [Salomon] with a Sherpa was also on the summit at the same time.

  On 17 May Tomala and Lhakpa made their summit bid by starting from C3 at 7:50 am in strong wind. They reached the summit at 1:50 pm (11:35 am NST), stayed on summit for about 20 minutes and returned to C3 at 5:50 pm. They had rest for a while at C3 and cleared the camp then descended C2 where they arrived at 8:50 pm and slept there. Next day on 18 May both went down to ABC. The summit day weather was cloudy and they could not see Everest from the summit, but they saw prayer flags on the summit.

  The Cholewa couple on the way up to C3 from C2 got to 7300m on 11 May at about 2 pm and turned around to C2. Both of them had fever and throat infection. 

  Moskala climbed up to 6900m on 5 May. She did not like to go further up. Physically she was in good shape and fit. Maybe it was a motivational problem.

  Fixed rope: 200m below C2.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Chhiri Sherpa, 17/11/1974, Pangboche, Everest X6, K2 X1


expid: CHOY11111
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: Canada
leaders: Gabriel Filippi
sponsor: Canadian Nepal-Tibet Expedition
bcdate: 2011-05-03
smtdate: 2011-05-12
termdate: 2011-05-17
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to lack of strength and support due to wide-spread illness
campsites: BC(03/05,5000m),ABC(06/05,5700m),C1(08/05,6400m),C2(10/04,7200m),xxx(12/05,7400m)
agency: Mountain Tribes Trekking
routememo:
  19 May 2011

  The team's efforts to get very high on the mountain collapsed in the face of health problems for Sherpas and members alike. In the end, there was no one left standing except Roy.

  The more experienced Sherpa, Thukten Dorji, never went above ABC, where he had developed a chest infection on 7 May. Their other and less experienced Sherpa, Ngima, got altitude sickness in C2 on the 13th.

  Gadbois had been taking a walk killing time while waiting for Ngima to join him that morning with oxygen and for them to go up to set up C3. When he learned that Ngima was sick, he gave up the idea of going higher. He tried to descend to C1, but had to stop at a Dutch team's tent in C1.5, which he knew would be empty, because of diarrhea, and now he was becoming aware of the frostbite in his fingers (they had become frostbitten on 10 May while he was climbing on his way from C1 to C2).

  Cousineau had gone up to C2 on 12 May using oxygen because she was too tired to reach the camp without it. She made no attempt to go higher.

  That left Roy the only climber to try to go above C2 (Filippi, the leader, never went above BC). Roy ascended 200 meters, then he also abandoned the attempt, and the climb was over. All were back in ABC by the 15th.

  Sherpas:
    Ngima Sherpa, 8/5/86, Taksindu-9, Solu, no 8000ers
    Thukten Dorji Sherpa, 21/6/71, Thamo, Khumbu, no 8000ers


expid: CHOY11112
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
sponsor: Cho Oyu Experience
bcdate: 2011-04-13
smtdate: 2011-05-05
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2011-05-09
accidents: 3 cases of altitude sickness
agency: Iceland Trekking
campsites:
  BC(13/04,4900m),ABC(15/04,5750m),C1(19/04,6000m),C2(22/04,6400m),C3(24/04,6750m),C4(28/04,6900m),C5(01/05,7200m),C6(03/05,7600m),Smt(05/05)

routememo:
  The team had no fixed camps above ABC at 5700m. Grobel's policy is to move tents and gear up the mountain as the climbers progress in small stages, but not descend in between campsites. This team progressed as follows:

  19 April - 6000m
  22 April - 6400m (most teams C1)
  24 April - 6750m
  28 April - 6900m
   1 May   - 7200m (most teams C2)
   3 May   - 7600m (most teams C3)
   5 May   - summit

  The summit party, Bonhomme and Verteneul with Sherpas Chhotemba and Rinji, left 7600m at 7:00 am (NST) and were on the top at 1:30 pm. They stayed on the summit for half an hour and saw Everest; others on the top at the same time were Ueli Steck, Dan Bowie and Ms. Sophie Denis. They descended to 7600m that day and were down in BC the next day.

  Non-summiting members:

  Grobel got altitude sickness on 5 May at 7600m because, he said, he hadn't taken care of himself while waiting to fix rope above 6700m. He went down to ABC.

  Kia developed cerebral edema on 22 April at 6400m. He descended to ABC on the 23rd and went home.

  Vanoli reached 6900m on 28 April, but found the climb too difficult technically and was back in ABC on the 30th.

  Viso left the expedition on 19 April because of altitude sickness.

  Vulin went down with Grobel on 5 May to ABC.

  Sherpas:
    Chhotemba Sherpa, 29/9/84, Makalu-9, no 8000ers
    Rinji Sherpa, 10/3/85, Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha, Dhaulagiri X1


expid: CHOY11113
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Ueli Steck
sponsor: Tibetan Adventure to Xixabangma, Cho Oyu & Everest
countries: USA
approach: From Xixabangma BC
bcdate: 2011-04-25
smtdate: 2011-05-05
smttime: 1315
termdate: 2011-05-09
othersmts: Attempted Everest (EVER-111-10)
campsites: IC(25/04,5300m),ABC(26/04,5700m),C1.5(27/04,6850m),Smt(05/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  The two-member team (with no Sherpas) had the goal of summiting Xixabangma and Cho Oyu and, if they had sufficient time after these ascents, climbing Everest as well.

  They arrived at Xixabangma BC on 14 May. Steck went to the top on the 17th, but Bowie was not well enough acclimatized and did not reach the summit.

  They left Xixabangma BC on the 20th and rode to Nyalam to rest and for Bowie to further acclimatize. On the 25th they went directly to Cho Oyu's intermediate camp at 5300m, were in ABC the next day and in C1.5 on the 28th. On 29th April they descended to ABC.

  They went for the summit on 4 May, when they climbed to C1.5. The two climbers left C1.5 at 1:00 am (NST) on the 5th and gained the summit at 11:00 am [13:15?]. Going down from the top, Steck was tired, so he stopped in the empty C2 tent of the Frenchwoman Sophie Denis, who arrived later from the top with her Sherpa: three people crowded into her tent for the night. Meanwhile Bowie had descended to intermediate camp and spent that night there. Both members were back in ABC on 6 May.

  Steck and Bowie went from Cho Oyu ABC on the 9th to Nyalam, and on the 14th they arrived at Everest BC on 14 May. They were in ABC on the 16th, C1 on the 19th and C2 on the 20th.

  They set out for a summit from C2 at 11:30 pm (NST) on the 20th during a very windy night. Steck got as high as 8700m at 5:30 am on 21 May, but Bowie turned back at 8000m at 1:00 am because his feet were cold. Steck also abandoned his summit bid because of cold feet. Bowie returned to C2 at about 2:00 am; Steck joined him there at 9:00 am.

  They were back in ABC the following day, and their climb was finished. On his return to Kathmandu, Steck said he was "happy" with the climb despite not having summited Everest.


expid: DHA111101
peakid: DHA1
year: 2011
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Finland
leaders: Samuli Mansikka
sponsor: Mansikka's Dhaulagiri Expedition
bcdate: 2011-05-06
smtdate: 2011-05-16
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2011-05-21
campsites: BC(06/05,4750m),C1(09/05,6000m),C2(10/05,6700m),C3(15/05,7450m),Smt(16/05)
accidents: Mika Mansikka frostbite
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  C1 at NE Col
  C2 on NE Ridge
  C3 on NE Ridge. 

  Mansikka basically followed the standard route, but above C3 (7450m on the NE Ridge) he took a shortcut by traversing to the right from the ridge not so far as most climbers, perhaps 200m short of the standard trail.

  The weather was fine during the first part of his final ascent: clear sky with very little wind until he began his descent from the top.

  He left C3 for the summit at midnight of the 15th and was on the top at 11:00 am of the 16th. His ascent waas slowed by the difficulty he had with his shortcut. He returned to C3 at 5:00 pm. He made an early start from C3 the next day because the night had been very wind: he left the camp at 3:00 am and was was back in BC at 6 pm after a nap in C1.

  Fingers on both of his hands became frostbitten when he had difficulty with the traverse. He had only one ice axe, so he had to put his fingers into the snow to negotiate this part of the climb, and his gloves got wet. But his fingers will heal.


expid: DHA111102
peakid: DHA1
year: 2011
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Chile
leaders: Maria Paz Ibarra
sponsor: Chilean Women Dhaulagiri Expedition 2011
approach: Beni->Darbang->Yukepai->Baghora->Dobhan->Italian BC
bcdate: 2011-04-17
smtdate: 2011-05-15
termdate: 2011-05-18
termnote: Abandoned at 7950m due to not enough time (too late in the day)
campsites: BC(17/04,4700m),C1(27/04,5800m),C2(05/05,6700m),C3(13/05,7400m),xxx(15/05,7950m)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Leader and member of the Chilean women expedition Callahan, Fadaedo, Ibarra and Dawa Chhiri left C3 in good weather at 1:30 am on 15 May for the summit. They got to 7950m at 1 pm then started snowfall and wind and became cloudy. Then the team turned around to C3 at 8 pm and slept there. Next day the team spent night at C2 and the following day to BC.

  Fixed rope: 120m above C3.

  Sherpa:
    Dawa Chhiri Sherpa, 20/2/67, Kurima, Lokhim-9, Dhaulagiri X1, Everest X3, 
      Cho Oyu X3, Manaslu X2


expid: DHA111103
peakid: DHA1
year: 2011
route1: NE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: So Yang-Soo
sponsor: Gyeonggi Dhaulagiri Expedition 2011
approach: Beni->Darbang->Boghara->Italian BC
bcdate: 2011-05-02
smtdate: 2011-05-15
termdate: 2011-05-17
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to snowfall, knee-deep snow, strong wind
campsites: BC(02/05,4700m),C1(04/05,5800m),C2(06/05,6400m),C3(12/05,7100m),xxx(15/05,7500m)
agency: Korean Treks & Expeditions
routememo:
  So and Nurbu left C3 for the summit at 4 am in good weather. When they got to 7500m snowfall started and also started picking up strong wind. Deep snow conditions even made it difficult to move them further up. It was already 5 pm and getting late, then So and Norbu turned around to C3 where they reached around 10 pm. Next day both went down to C1 and slept there. On 17 May both descended to BC. 

  Kim Jin-Il, Kim Jung-Bae, Lee and Phu Dorchi reached C3 on 6 May. The members were exhausted and did not go beyond C3.

  Fixed rope: 400m contributed.

  Sherpas:
    Phu Dorchi, 28/2/83 (16/11/2039), Makalu-4, Sedua


expid: DHA111104
peakid: DHA1
year: 2011
route1: NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Tyler Johnson
sponsor: Aka Ski Dhaulagiri Expedition 2011
approach: Beni->Darbang->Baskat->Jugepani->Lamcha Kharka->Sallaghari->Italian BC
bcdate: 2011-04-12
smtdate: 2011-04-23
termdate: 2011-05-04
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to climbing alone
campsites: BC(12/04,4700m),C1(19/04,5870m),C2(22/04,6500m),xxx(23/04,6500m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  On 18 April Johnson and Kasteler, on their acclimatization process went up to 5500m and slept there. Next day 19 April both skied down from 5500m to BC in perfect snow conditions.

  Johnson left BC on 19 April due to severe cough. He returned to Kathmandu on 25 April and left Nepal on 28 April. 

  Kasteler set up his C1 on 19 April. He climbed up to 6500m on 22 April, but he did not sleep there. On 24 April Kasteler came down to BC. He gave up climbing as he did not want to climb alone.

  Fixed rope: 120m contributed.


expid: EVER11124
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Manabu Hirose
sponsor: NHK Everest Expedition 2011
bcdate: 2011-04-19
smtdate: 2011-05-25
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2011-05-30
campsites: BC(19/04,5350m),C1(25/04,6000m),C2(30/04,6300m),C3(22/05,7100m),C4(23/05,7900m),Smt(25/05)
accidents: 1 Sherpa toothache and 1 Sherpa frostbite
agency: Rolwaling Trek
routememo:
  NHK Everest Expedition - 3 June 2011 led by Manabu Hirose

  The expedition first went for an acclimatization climb of Lobuche East. All five members and five Sherpas climbed to the mountain's east shoulder on 15 April. They then moved to their Everest BC on the 19th.

  The five members and ten Sherpas left C4 for the top at 10:50 pm on the 24th of May and were on the summit at 9:30 am on 25 May. They returned to to C4 at 3:52 pm that day, descended to C2 on the next day, and were back in BC on 27 May.

  The members used oxygen in C3 to the top to and in C4; the Sherpas used it from C4 to the summit to C4.

  None of the members had any health problems, but one Sherpa, Pemba Nuru, had a toothache: he went down to the dental clinic at Namche, had his tooth extracted, and returned to the expedition. Lhakpa Nuru's toes were slightly frostbitten.

  Sherpas summiters:
    Ang Pemba, 25/7/78, Thami, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X1
    Dawa Gyalje, 14/3/79, Beding, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X1
    Lhakpa Tshering, 11/11/83, Namche, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Mingma Nuru, 15/3/83, Phurte, no 8000ers
    Mingma Nuru (Ang Nuru), 3/8/84, Namche, no 8000ers
    Nima Nurbu, 20/2/80, Thamiteng, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2
    Ongje Sherpa, 22/8/83, Beding, Everest X2, Manaslu X2, Cho Oyu X1
    Pasang Kidar/Kitar, 25/2/79, Beding, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X3
    Pasang Tharke, 23/7/71, Thami, Everest X4
    Pemba Geljen, 22/7/69, Thami, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X2


expid: EVER11105
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Kenton Cool
sponsor: Dream Guides Everest Expedition
countries: France
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2011-04-19
smtdate: 2011-05-06
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2011-05-08
campsites: BC(19/04,5350m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(04/05,7200m),C4(05/05,7900m),Smt(06/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Team left South Col at 11 pm on 5 May, straightforward climb. Spent about half hour on summit and descended to C2, arrived at 5 pm. Next day to BC on 8 May they took a helicopter to KTM and left for Europe the same day.

  Sherpas:
    Dorje Gyalzen, Pangboche, 16/7/1982 (1/4/2039)
    Lhakpa Sherpa, Kerung-3, Solu, 1977 (summited Manaslu with Cool in 2010)


expid: EVER11106
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kenji Kondo
sponsor: Adventure Guides Everest Expedition 2011
bcdate: 2011-04-28
smtdate: 2011-05-26
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2011-05-29
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(28/04,5350m),C1(03/05,6000m),C2(04/05,6300m),C3(24/05,7000m),C4(25/05,7900m),Smt(26/05)
accidents: Kusonoki throat infection; nothing serious for the three members and Sherpas
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  First the team went to acclimatize by climbing Island Peak. Three members, Hiraide, Kawasaki and Kondo, plus three Sherpas summited at 25 April while one member, Kusunoki, dropped out of the expedition that day and did not go to Everest with the others because of a throat infection.

  The remaining three members, who had summited Island Peak on 25 April, went to the top of Everest on 26 May. The summit party, Hiraide, Kawasaki and Kondo, plus Sherpas Cheppa, Da Tendi and Phurba Chhiri, left C4 for the summit at 2:00 am and all were on the top 12 hours later at 2:00 pm. They were back in C4 at 5:00 pm. The next day they went to BC.

  The three members used oxygen in C3 to the top to C1; their Sherpas used it in C4 to the summit to C2.

  Sherpas:
    Cheppa Sherpa, 29/10/83, Sotang-6, Solu, Everest X1
    Da Tendi Sherpa, 28/5/81, Saframa, Solu, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X3, Manaslu X1
    Phurba Chhiri/Tshering Sherpa, 4/10/68, Saframa, Lokhim-9, Everest X6, 
      Cho Oyu X3, Lhotse X2, Manaslu X3, K2 X1


expid: EVER11107
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Unai Llantada
sponsor: Enkarterri Bizkaia al Everest 2011
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2011-04-22
smtdate: 2011-05-21
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2011-05-24
campsites: BC(22/04,5350m),C2(28/04,6400m),C3(07/05,7300m),C4(20/05,8000m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Team left C2 at 10 pm on 20 May. There was a bit of wind which died down after about 4 hours. They had good views from the summit and stayed for about 40 minutes. They left at about 8:40 am. They descended to C2 where they arrived at 3 pm. Next day they descended to BC.

  Sherpa:
    Karma Gyalzen, Surke, Chaurikharka-4, 26/9/71, Everest 2006


expid: EVER11108
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Andrew Lock
sponsor: Australian Independent on Everest
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2011-04-18
smtdate: 2011-05-27
termdate: 2011-05-31
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to high winds, too cold
campsites: BC(18/04,5180m),ABC(27/04,6380m),C1(30/04,7000m),C2(26/05,7650m),xxx(27/05,8000m)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  Lock left C2 at 8:30 pm on 26 May for his summit push. When he started there has no wind, but it got increasingly windy and cold during the climb. He decided to turn back when he reached about 8000m as he was worried about frostbite. He got back to C2 at 1:30 am and spent a very stormy night there. He was contemplating going back up, but wind did not ease off. On 27 May he descended to ABC.


expid: EVER11109
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Daniele Nardi
sponsor: Share Everest 2011
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2011-05-05
smtdate: 2011-05-18
termdate: 2011-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to work for science more important
campsites: BC(05/05,5350m),C2(13/05,6400m),C4(18/05,8000m),xxx(18,26/05,8000m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  The objective of this expedition was to put up two poles to measure humidity, temperature, wind direction, solar radiation, etc., which was organized by the Pyramid Science Station near Lobuche. The team reached the South Col for the first time on 18 May and set up the equipment on 19 May. They worked there for about eight hours without using supplementary oxygen. It was a good day as there was no wind.

  They were also going to put a smaller sensor for the same measurements on the summit, however, during their first mission to the South Col they did not have the sensor with them, so they descended to BC on 19 May.

  On 25 May, they ascended again, stayed one night at C2 and on 26 May, then ascended back to the South Col. On 27 May, they tested the sensor, which was supposed to go the summit on South Col, for about three hours; however, they discovered that some improvements had to be made to the sensor so they decided to take it back down to the Pyramid.

  On 27 May they descended all the way to the Pyramid the same day.

  As the main objective of of this expedition was to set up the measuring station, Nardi and Bernasconi did not prioritize the summit. They would have liked to try without oxygen after having put up the station, however, the weather did not allow it.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to South Col by Nardi
    Bernasconi and Nardi slept on oxygen at C4. 


expid: EVER11110
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Ueli Steck
sponsor: Tibetan Adventure to Xixabangma, Cho Oyu & Everest
countries: USA
bcdate: 2011-05-14
smtdate: 2011-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 8700m due to cold feet
othersmts: Climbed Cho Oyu (CHOY-111-13) on 5 May by Bowie and Ueli Steck
campsites: BC(14/05,5200m),ABC(16/05,6400m),C1(19/05,7000m),C2(20/05,7700m),xxx(21/05,8700m)
agency: Asian Trekking
primid: CHOY11113
routememo:
  Steck and Bowie went from Cho Oyu ABC on the 9th to Nyalam, and on the 14th they arrived at Everest BC on 14 May. They were in ABC on the 16th, C1 on the 19th and C2 on the 20th.

  They set out for a summit from C2 at 11:30 pm (NST) on the 20th during a very windy night. Steck got as high as 8700m at 5:30 am on 21 May, but Bowie turned back at 8000m at 1:00 am because his feet were cold. Steck also abandoned his summit bid because of cold feet. Bowie returned to C2 at about 2:00 am; Steck joined him there at 9:00 am.

  They were back in ABC the following day, and their climb was finished. On his return to Kathmandu, Steck said he was "happy" with the climb despite not having summited Everest.


expid: EVER11111
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dave Morton
sponsor: Eddie Bauer First Ascent Expedition
bcdate: 2011-05-24
smtdate: 2011-05-29
termdate: 2011-05-31
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to fatigue
othersmts: Attempted Makalu (MAKA-111-03)
campsites: BC(24/05,5350m),C2(27/05,6400m),xxx(29/05,7850m)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
primid: MAKA11103
routememo:
  The two-member team, Dave Morton and Melissa Arnot, arrived at Everest BC on 24 May by helicopter from their BC at Makalu after an unsuccessful bid to scale it.

  They left C2 at 4:00 am on 29 May to move up to C4 intending to leave for the top at 2:00 am. But they turned back at 3:00 pm at 7880m just below the site for C4 and returned to C2 at 6:30 pm, descended to BC on the 30th and left the next day in a helicopter that took them to Lukla and then a plane to Kathmandu.

  Morton explained shortly after returning to Kathmandu that he had turned back because he was not sufficiently rested, but in fact he probably had developed pneumonia during the summit push they had made on Makalu without realizing that the bad cough he had at the time was due to this.

  Melissa was diagnosed in Kathmandu as having pneumonia; Morton was x-rayed at the same hospital later and told he was recovering from the disease.

  Arnot used oxygen from 7300m and Morton from 7600m to their high point and back to C2.


expid: EVER11113
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Jim Williams
sponsor: Exploradus Everest Expedition (Three Americans on Everest)
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2011-04-13
smtdate: 2011-05-27
smttime: 0615
termdate: 2011-05-31
campsites: BC(13/04,5350m),C1(21/04,5900m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3(04/05,7300m),C4(25/05,8000m),Smt(27/05)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  Team left C4 at 7:30 pm on 26 May. Little windy, Tracy turned back on top to the triangular face at 12:20 am. She was exhausted and turned back to C4, where she arrived at 6 am. Jefferey and Chewang Dorje carried on to the summit, spent about 10 minutes up there. They returned to C2, where they at arrived at 7 pm. Tracy left C4 at 11 am and arrived at C2 at 3 pm. On 28 May everyone was back at BC.

  Jim Williams never left BC as he was coordinating the expedition.

  Sherpa:
    Chewang Dorje, 17/4/81, Pangboche, Everest X4


expid: EVER11114
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Takaharu Hayashi
sponsor: Karagkurung Mountaineering Club Mt. Everest Expedition 2011
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2011-04-22
smtdate: 2011-05-27
termdate: 2011-06-01
termnote: Abandoned at 8700m due to strong wind, snow-covered rope
campsites: BC(22/04,5000m),ABC(26/04,6300m),C1(03/05,7050m),C2(17/05,7700m),C3(27/05,8300m),xxx(27/05,8700m)
agency: Freelancer Lhakpa Sherpa
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 25 April at 5800m.

  First summit push started from ABC on 20 May, Ishikawa, Katsuno, Tsubosaka and Pema Chhumbi spent the night at C1 on that day. Next day they went to C2. On 22nd same three members and Pema Chhumbi went up to 8000m; then storm blew up, so Ishikawa, Kasuno and Tusbosaka turned around to C1 and slept there. Pema Chhumbi went down to ABC. Next day members went down to ABC.

  The team started again on 24 May from ABC. Katsuno, Tsubosaka, Pasang Gelji, Ongda Gyalzen and Pema Chhumbi started from C3 at 8 pm on 26 May in snowfall. The team reached 8750m at 5 am on 27 May. There was about half-meter deep snow with the fixed rope buried under snow. The team waited at that point for three hours and decided to go down. They arrived C1 at 8 pm. 

  Lhakpa's high point 8000m. 

  Leader Hayashi while going to ABC from CBC on 9 May at about 5000m was unable to walk properly. His steps were unbalanced; it happened Hayashi for the first time, so he went down to BC. He left BC on 10 May. He arrived Kathmandu on 11 May and same day left for Japan. Had treatment and returned Kathamndu on 29 May and waited for the team to return from Tibet.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Gelje, 4/7/1967, Walung, Makalu-9, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X2
    Ongda Gyalzen/Gyalze, 23/2/1981, Makalu-9, then Darjeeling, India, Everest X2
    Pema Chhumbi, 20/8/1977, Walung, Makalu-9, Baruntse X1, Cho Oyu X1, 
      Dhaulagiri X1, Makalu X2 [these ascents all unverfied]
    Lhakpa, 27/4/65, Makalu-9


expid: EVER11115
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Luigi Rampini
sponsor: An Italian on Everest
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2011-04-14
smtdate: 2011-05-20
termdate: 2011-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to Sherpa problem (or strong winds?)
campsites: BC(14/04,5100m),ABC(09/05,6450m),C1(13/05,7070m),xxx(20/05,7700m)
agency: Extreme Adventure
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 4 April at 5800m
  C1 at North Col
  High point at 7500m below C2.

  Rampini's summit push started from C2 on 19 May to C2 on 20 May. On the way up to C2, he met his Sherpa coming down about two hours before reaching C2 and the Sherpa told Rampini that there was very strong wind coming up so Rampini should go down. Pema and Rampini went down to C1 and next day to ABC.

  Sherpa:
    Pema Sherpa, 28/08/1983, Ekuwa, Makalu-1, Everest X2


expid: EVER11116
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Iran
leaders: Hamid Reza Dehghan
sponsor: Iranian Everest Expedition 2011
approach: Lukla->Namche->Tengboche->Chhukung->Island Peak->Lobuche
bcdate: 2011-04-07
smtdate: 2011-05-19
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2011-05-22
campsites: BC(07/04,5345m),C1(23/04,6055m),C2(24/04,6500m),C3(03/05,7200m),C3(18/05,8000m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Zen Adventure Holidays
routememo:
  On 18 May Dehghan with his climbing Sherpa Chungba Nuru left C4 at 10:45 pm. They got to the top at 9:30 am on 19 May. They stayed on summit for about one hour and returned to C4 at 3 pm. They spent night at C4. Next day on 20 May descended to C2 and slept there. On 21 May they went down to BC. At the beginning there was high wind on that night. Some climbers turned around from Balcony due to high wind. When Dehghan team reached the top there were 4-5 climbers on the top.

  Sherpa:
    Chungba Nuru Sherpa, 1964, Tate, Chaurikharka-7, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X1, 
      Dhaulagiri I X1


expid: EVER11118
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: S Africa
leaders: Janusz Warchol
sponsor: South African on Everest
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2011-04-14
smtdate: 2011-05-20
termdate: 2011-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7650m due to cold weather, fatigue
campsites: BC(14/04,5150m),ABC(17/05,6400m),C2(02/05,7050m),C2(20/05,7650m),xxx(20/05,7650m)
agency: Adventure Extreme
routememo:
  On 20 May Warchol reached C2 at 5 pm (CST). During his climb the weather started off sunny but turned snowy and windy in the afternoon. He got very dehydrated that day and felt very tired. He decided to descend to ABC the following day as he was too exhausted to carry on to the summit. He left at 8 am (CST) and got to ABC at 3 pm and descended to BC on 23 May.


expid: EVER11120
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Naoko Watanabe
sponsor: Japanese on Everest
approach: Lukla->Namche->Debuche->Pheriche->Lobuche
bcdate: 2011-04-13
smtdate: 2011-05-12
termdate: 2011-05-16
termnote: Abandoned at 8700m due to strong wind, white-out
campsites: BC(13/04,5085m),C1(28/05,6000m),C2(29/04,6300m),C3(09/05,7300m),C4(12/05,8000m),xxx(12/05,8700m)
agency: Taro Treks (Prestige Adventure pmt)
routememo:
  Watanabe and Ritemba started their summit push at 9 pm on 11 May from C4. When they reached 8700m at 7 am on 12 May strong wind started picking up and visibility became very poor due to white-out. Many climbers behind them turned around. Watanabe and Ritemba decided to stop and they too turned around [and back] to C4 at 4 pm. Watanabe was suffering from throat infection, and also had vomited several times. The team did not put their own tent at C4. Their plan was to go down to C3 after summit. So they had to spent the night in the tent of Ritemba's brother without sleeping bag. Watanabe said that it was very cold night and oxygen which she was using also ran out. Next day on 13 May Watanabe and Ritemba went down to C2 and the following day to BC. Watanabe's condition was very bad so she was air-lifted to Kathmandu by helicopter; on 16 May she was hospitalized for few days.

  Sherpa:
    Ritemba Sherpa, 08/05/1970, Yaphu-9, Makalu, Everest X2


expid: EVER11121
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Gavin Bate
sponsor: Adventure Alternative Nepal 2011 to Everest
countries: Canada
bcdate: 2011-04-09
smtdate: 2011-05-20
smttime: 0815
termdate: 2011-05-25
campsites: BC(09/04,5300m),C1(23/04,6060m),C2(27/04,6442m),C3(13/05,7109m),C4(19/05,7900m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Adventure Alternative Nepal
routememo:
  Three members Bate, Hill, Hurry and three climbing Sherpas Lobsang, Pasang Tendi and Phur Temba started their summit bid from C4 at 8:45 pm on 19 May. Hurry turned around from 8500m between South Summit and Balcony to C4 as he was slow. Hill and Lobsang reached the top at 8:15 am on 20 May and went down to C4 where they arrived at 3 pm. Bate and Pasang Tendi got to the top at 10 am and returned to C4 at 4 pm. All members and Sherpas spent night at C4 on 21 May. They descended to C2 and the following day to BC. The summit day weather was good.

  Sherpas:
    Lobsang Sherpa, 27/6/85, Jubing-1, Kharikhola, Everest X2
    Pasang Tendi Sherpa, 25/11/1974, Jubing-1, Kharikhola, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1
    Phur Temba Sherpa, 19/12/68, Waku-9, Everest X1


expid: EVER11122
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Jogabyasa Bhoi
sponsor: Spiritual Everest Expedition 2011
approach: Lukla->Namche->Debuche->Pheriche->Lobuche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2011-05-02
smtdate: 2011-05-19
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2011-05-24
campsites: BC(02/05,5400m),C1(06/05,6000m),C2(07/05,6600m),C3(17/05,7500m),C4(18/05,8000m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Mountain Consult
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC 5800m on 20 April.

  Bhoi and Ngang Pasang left C4 at 2 am on 19 May. Both reached summit at 10 am and stayed on summit nearly 45 minutes. Bhoi cited some poems of Sir Arovindo Ghosh and mediated for five minutes. Then returned C4 at 3 pm, slept there. Next day went down to C2 and the following day to BC. The summit day weather was nice, but a bit windy.

  Sherpa:
    Nawang Pasang Sherpa, 27/10/86 (10/07/2043), Waku-4, no 8000ers


expid: EVER11123
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Mongolia
leaders: Gangaamaa Badamgarav
sponsor: Ganga Mongolian Everest 2011
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2011-04-13
smtdate: 2011-05-21
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2011-05-26
campsites: BC(13/04,5200m),ABC(25/04,6400m),C1(28/04,7066m),C2(19/04,7800m),C3(20/05,8300m),Smt(21/05)
achievment: 1st Mongolian woman and 3rd Mongolian to summit Everest
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Badamgarav and Dawa started from C3 at 9 pm of 20 May. They reached to the top at 6:30 am on 21 May. They stayed on summit 10-15 minutes, then descended to C3 where they arrived around 10 am, continued to descend and at about 4pm they reached C1 and spent the night there. Next day they arrived at ABC. The summit day weather was good, but while descending it was windy. There were two climbers on the top ahead of Badamgarav team and many climbers behind them.

  Sherpa:
    Dawa Sherpa, 28/4/75 (15/01/2032), Ropesa, Makalu-5, Everest X1


expid: EVER11125
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Robert Meijer
sponsor: Dutchman on Everest
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2011-04-07
smtdate: 2011-05-20
smttime: 0500
termdate: 2011-05-28
campsites: BC(07/04,5300m),ABC(13/04,6400m),C1(20/04,7000m),C2(18/05,7700m),C3(19/05,8300m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  Team left C3 at 9 pm on 19 May. Weather was good with wind about 50km/hr. Straightforward climb. They arrived at 5 am and spent 15 minutes on the summit. They descended to ABC, where they arrived at about 9 pm, where they spent the night. They descended to BC on 23 May.

  Oxygen:
    From 7300m to the top to ABC by Meijer and Chhiji Nurbu.

  Sherpa:
    Chhiji Nurbu Sherpa, Makalu-9, 30/07/80, Annapurna X2


expid: EVER11126
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Pakistan
leaders: Mohammad Ali
sponsor: Pakistan Everest Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Tengboche->Pheriche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2011-04-11
smtdate: 2011-05-12
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2011-05-14
campsites: BC(11/04,5350m),C2(18/04,6300m),C4(11/05,7950m),Smt(12/05)
achievment: 2nd Pakistani to summit Everest
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Hassan started his summit push from BC on 10 May together with his climbing Sherpa Mingma. Both arrived C2 and slept there. On 11 May both went to C4 where they arrived at 3 pm; same night Hassan and Mingma left C4 at 9 pm of 11 May. Both reached summit at 7:30 am of 12 May. They stayed on summit for about 7 minutes, then descended to C4 where they arrived at 11 am. They spent the night at C4. Next day 13 May went down to BC where they reached at 2 pm. Summit day weather was bad, windy, snowfall and cloudy all the way up and down. But 13 May weather was very good clear sky and no wind. On the summit were Indian woman (Anshu) and  Nepali Sherpa girl (Chhurim) together with 3 or 4 Sherpas.

  Sherpa:
    Mingma Thunduk Sherpa, 22/9/1980, Nurbugaon, Upper Walung, Makalu-9,
      Lhotse X1, Everest X1 (both in 2008 with Koreans)


expid: EVER11127
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: David Wermuth
sponsor: An American on Everest
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2011-04-07
smtdate: 2011-05-20
smttime: 0500
termdate: 2011-05-28
campsites: BC(07/04,5300m),ABC(13/04,6400m),C1(20/04,7000m),C2(18/05,7700m),C3(19/05,8300m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  Team left C3 at 9 pm on 19 May. Weather was good, windy about 50 km/hr. Straightforward climb. They arrived at 5 am and spent about 15 minutes on the summit. They descended to C3, where they arrived at about 11 am. They spent the night there as Wermuth had problems with his eyesight. He had laser treatment ten years ago and during the descent his vision blurred. When he descended to ABC the next day, his vision got increasingly better. They descended to BC on 23 May.

  Oxygen:
    From 7300m to the top to 7000m by Wermuth, Tashi and Furtemba Sherpa.

  Sherpas:
    Furtemba Sherpa, Gaurishankar-3, 11/10/1984, Makalu in 2009
    Tashi Sherpa, 18/04/1979, Beding (father comes from Namche), Everest X5


expid: EVER11128
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: David Hahn
sponsor: Rainier Mountaineering (RMI) Everest Expedition 2011
bcdate: 2011-04-06
smtdate: 2011-05-21
smttime: 0655
termdate: 2011-05-26
campsites: BC(06/04,5350m),C1(21/04,6065m),C2(29/04,6400m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(21/05)
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  Ms. Sara McGahan and her father, William McGahan, from Georgia, dropped out of the team. William climbed to 6700m on 2 May and then had had enough. Sara, 16 years old, got to 7050m on the 2nd and 9th of May, then lost motivation to climb without her father, and in addition the huge mountain overwhelmed her.

  The leadership, Hahn and Mallory, took Sara down to BC on 18 May, and she and William decided to go home. They left BC on the 19th and took a helicopter from Pangboche to Kathmandu on the 20th.

  That left Hahn and Mallory to climb the mountain, which Hahn had done 12 times before but Mallory had never climbed it. On the 18th they went up to C2, on the 20th to C4. At midnight of 20/21 May, they left C4 with Kazi and Tshering Dorje and were on the summit at 6:55 am on 21 May. They were back in C4 at 2:30 pm and in BC on the 22nd.

  The summit party used oxygen from 7300m to top to 7300m.

  Sherpas:
    Kazi Sherpa, 29/5/71, Tapting-9, Solu, Everest X2
    Tshering Dorje, 3/3/89, Beding, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2


expid: EVER11129
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Arnold Coster
sponsor: SummitClimb Everest Expedition 2011
countries: Germany, Ireland, Netherlands, UK
bcdate: 2011-04-09
smtdate: 2011-05-21
smttime: 0345
termdate: 2011-05-26
campsites: BC(09/04,5200m),ABC(18/04,6400m),C1(01/05,7010m),C2(19/05,7800m),C3(20/05,8300m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  The summit team consisted of all eight members and their four Sherpas. They left C3 for the top on 20 May at 8:30 pm (NST) and all reached the summit between 3:45 am (Palmer and Ang Babu) and 5:45 am (Quinn with Gyalzen and Tenji). In their descent, Pickett and Lhakpa Gelu went down to C2; Coster, Palmer, Patch and Plantenberg all the way to C1; and Buckingham, Irnich and Quinn, with Gyalzen and Tenji, stayed in C3. All were in ABC on the 22nd.

  On their summit push, oxygen was used by all members from C1 to the summit and down to C1; their Sherpas used it from C2 to the top to C3.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Babu Sherpa, 20/12/74, Khumjung, Everest X4, Lhotse X2, Cho Oyu X1
    Gyalzen/Gyalje, 25/1/74, Patle, Okhaldhunga, Everest 25/5/10
    Lhakpa Gelu, 13/4/77, Thumduk, Beni-3, Solu, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X2, Lhotse X1
    Tenji/Tenzing, 1/6/82, Patle, Okhaldhunga, Everest X5


expid: EVER11130
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Sweden
leaders: Anders Stavhag
sponsor: Swedes on Everest
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2011-04-07
smtdate: 2011-05-20
smttime: 0500
termdate: 2011-05-28
campsites: BC(07/05,5300m),ABC(13/04,6400m),C1(20/04,7000m),C2(18/05,7700m),C3(19/05,8300m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  Summit team left C3 at 9 pm on 19th May. Weather was good, windy about 50km/h. Straightforward climb. They arrived at 5 am and spent an hour and 15 minutes on the summit. They descended to ABC, where they arrived at about 9 pm, where they spent the night. They descended to BC on 23 May.

  Stavhag reached 6600m on 4th May. He had a respiratory infection and altitude problems and abandoned the expedition. He left BC on 8th May.

  Oxygen used from 7300m to top to ABC by Pompe and Chhiring Dorje.

  Sherpa:
    Chhiring Dorje, 26/10/74 (10/7/2030), Beding, Rolwaling, Everest X10,
      Cho Oyu X4, Lhotse X1, Makalu X2, Manaslu X1


  Chhiring Dorje - 31 May 2017

  Chhiring Dorje says that Nima Gombu, who started out with Anny Kvithyll, joined with the summit team.


expid: EVER11131
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Christine Dube, Robin Trygg
sponsor: Canadian-Swedish pair on Everest
countries: Sweden
bcdate: 2011-04-10
smtdate: 2011-05-13
smttime: 0400
termdate: 2011-05-16
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(10/04,5300m),C1(18/04,6100m),C2(22/04,6300m),C3(11/05,7300m),C4(12/05,7400m),Smt(13/05)
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  The Canadian woman and Swedish man were originally independents, but they arrived only a day apart, their trekking agent put them in the same hotel, they flew to Lukla on the same day planning to go first to Island peak. So they became a single team.

  The two foreigners summited Island Peak with their three Sherpas on 6 April and set up their Everest BC on the 10th. They rested there for a few days before attacking Everest.

  Their climb of Everest went smoothly and on 13 May all members and Sherpas went to the summit. The two members, Pemba and Pemba Rinzi left C4 at 7:30 pm on the 12th; Kami left camp at 8:30 am and caught up with the others so that all got to the top together at 4:00 am on 13 May. The weather was clear but very windy, and very dark.

  They returned to C4: Trygg and two Pembas at 8:00 am, Dube and Kami at 8:30 am. They slept there for a short time, then at 11:00 am all left the camp to descend to C2. Everyone was in BC on the 14th.

  Sherpas:
    Kami/Kame Sherpa, 28/8/62, Bagam, Kerung-4, Solu, Everest X10, Lhotse X1, 
      Cho Oyu X1, Dhaulagiri X1
    Pemba Sherpa, 6/1/80, Patle-4, Okhaldhunga, Everest X3
    Pemba Rinzi/Ringi, 10/1/76 (9/2/2032), Bishinga-7, Okhaldhunga, Everest X1, 
      Dhaulagiri X3


expid: EVER11132
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Juan Agullo
sponsor: Proyecto Retro Everest
bcdate: 2011-04-19
smtdate: 2011-05-20
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2011-05-26
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(19/04,5200m),ABC(26/04,6400m),C1(30/04,7100m),C2(10/05,7600m),C3(19/05,8200m),Smt(20/05)
accidents: Fernandez slight frostbite; Trasobares pulmonary edema
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  The team went first to Island Peak in Khumbu before going into Tibet to climb Everest, and three members summited it on 4 April.

  After having set up the usual number of high camps with C3 at 8300m on 19 May, Agullo and Fernandez left C3 at 8:30 pm (NST) that night. Agullo reached 8700m at 7 am on the 20th, but stopped there: he was too tired to continue the final ascent to the summit, and Ang Phurba Sherpa stopped with him. They waited there for Fernandez to climb to the top at 7:30 am. Then the two Spaniards and Ang Phurba descended together to C3 at 3:00 pm to spend that night, and went down to advance base camp on the 21st.

  Lhakpa Nurbu, the other climbing Sherpa with the team, had gone ahead alone to the summit on the 20th at 7:00 am and went down to advance base camp the same day.

  Garcia was returning to ABC after resting at BC, but at 6300m on about 5 May, he developed pulmonary edema and had to turn around and abandoned the climb.

  Trasobares developed pulmonary edema soon after arrival at BC and left the expedition on 24 April.

  The only other health problem was Fernandez's slight frostbite on his toes.

  Oxygen was used by the four climbers who went above C3. The two members used it from C3 to their high points only. Their Sherpas were on oxygen from C3 to their high points to C2.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Nurbu, 14/2/83, Tashigaon, Makalu-5, Sankhuwasabha, Everest X1
    Ang Phurba, 26/8/67, Chheplung, Chaurikharka-3, Solu, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X4


expid: EVER11133
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Edurne Pasaban
sponsor: Desafio 14+1 Everest sin O2 Endesa
bcdate: 2011-04-17
smtdate: 2011-05-20
termdate: 2011-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to high wind
campsites: BC(17/04,5750m),C1(23/04,6000m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(01/05,7200m),C4(20/05,7900m),xxx(20/05,7900m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  High point at 7900m at C4 South Col.

  On Edurne Pasaban's return to Everest this time, her purpose was to scale the mountain without the use of any oxygen by her team. She was not successful.

  They pitched C4 on the South Col on 20 May with the intention that all four members and their three Sherpas would leave the Col for the summit that night at 10:00 pm. But a strong wind (about 50-60km/hr) was blowing across the upper reaches to the mountain, which prevented their moving up from the Col. They waited until 7:00 am the next morning, the 21st, but when the wind did not drop, they immediately started down. It was impossible to climb Everest without oxygen in such weather. Furthermore, their Sherpas were not well. They descended all the way to BC, where the members arrived at 4:00 pm.

  The Sherpas were very tired when they arrived at the Col, and they became very sick. After they were given oxygen in C4 at the Col, they moved down to C2, where they ate some dal bhat and stopped using oxygen. They, too went down to BC. (This was the expedition's only use of oxygen.)

  Immediately after their return to BC, the members became involved as communications coordinations in the rescue of Spanish climbers on Everest and Lhotse, including Juanito Oiarzabal from Lhotse. (A formal statement dated 25 May 2011 recounts in detail the efforts needed to rescue members of two Lhotse teams; a copy is attached to the file for Pauner's team, but it does not mention the help needed by Pauner's member Juanito). Pasaban's party did not leave BC until 27 May.

  Sherpas:
    Jangbu Sherpa, 19/9/79 (3/6/2036), Kharikhola, Solu, Everest X3, 
      Kangchenjunga 18/5/09, Annapurna I 17/4/10
    Mingma Thindu Sherpa, 2/12/82, Makalu vdc, Annapurna I 17/4/10
    Pasang Tendi Sherpa, 25/2/88, Kharikhola, Annapurna I 17/4/10


expid: EVER11134
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: David Hamilton
sponsor: Jagged Globe Everest Expedition 2011
countries: Estonia
bcdate: 2011-04-08
smtdate: 2011-05-16
smttime: 0555
termdate: 2011-05-28
campsites: BC(08/04,5250m),C1(19/04,6100m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(03/05,7200m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(16,25/05)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  Jagged Globe Everest Expedition - 2 June 2011 (led by David Hamilton)

  All twelve members went to the summit. Eight summited on 16 May with seven Sherpas, and four more members with four Sherpas on the 25th; of the Sherpas, three went to the top twice.

  The first summit party left C4 on the 15th at 9:30 pm and reached the summit with Hamilton in the lead between 6:00 and 6:30 am on the 16th. They were Chambers, Chapman, Gott, Hamilton, Kaasik, Smith, Tuuleveski and Wade. The Sherpas with them were Mingma Tsiri, Pasang Tenzing, Pem Chhiri, [Pema Chhiri], Tshering Pemba, Thundu and Wangdi. The group returned to C4 between 10:00 am and 11:30 am. They were in C2 the next day and BC on the 18th.

  The second summit party left C4 on the 24 May at 9:30 pm and most of them summited at 7:45 am and were back in C4 at 12:00 noon. These climbers were Parks, Pinnock and Smith with Mingma Tsiri, Pasang Tenzing, Pem Chhiri and Pemba Chongbi. Williams and Pasang Tenzing were on the top at 10:30 am and got down to C4 at 2:00 pm. For Mingma Tsiri and Pasang Tenzing, this was their second ascent this month: they had summited and descended to BC with the first party.

  The members used oxygen from C2 to the summit to C3. The Sherpas used it from C4 to the top to and in C4.

  The only casualties were:

  Parks, whose left big toe was frostbitten, and by the time he had returned to BC it had blistered and was on the way to healing. He wanted to climb Elbrus in July.

  Wade suffered from blurred vision when he was descending from the summit to C4, but it was back to normal when he was back in BC. The cause was wind getting into his cornea. He had an eye surgery ten years previously.

  Sherpas:
    Mingma Tsiri Sherpa, 1/8/70, Beding (one of the 7 Brothers), Everest X15, 
      Cho Oyu X3, Dhaulagiri X1, Manaslu X1
    Pasang Tenzing Sherpa, 1/10/84, Beding (a brother) Everest X6, Cho Oyu X2
    Pem Chhiri Sherpa, 3/3/80 (20/11/2036), Chankhu-6, Dolakha
    Pemba Chongbi Sherpa, [29/6/85] (15/3/2042), Kharikhola, Solu
    Pemba Tshering (Pem Chhiri) Sherpa, 16/12/80, Chankhu-6, Dolakha, Everest X4, 
      Cho Oyu X2
    Thundu Sherpa, 18/2/78, Beding (a brother), Everest X5, Cho Oyu X2, Manaslu X1
    Wangdi Sherpa, (18/11/2045), Shyama, Dolakha


expid: EVER11135
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: SummitClimb Everest Expedition 2011
countries: UK
bcdate: 2011-04-08
smtdate: 2011-05-12
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2011-05-16
campsites: BC(08/04,5350m),C1(17/04,6050m),C2(23/04,6300m),C3(28/04,7100m),C4(11/05,7900m),Smt(12/05)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  The summit party left C4 for the top at 10:00 pm on 11 May. They were four members Edge, Falconer, Leonard and Lewis, with four Sherpas, Ang Pasang, Jangbu, Lhakpa Nuru and Thile Nuru.

  At midnight of the 11th/12th, when Leonard reached well below the Balcony at perhaps 8100m, Leonard complained that her fingers were very cold and she wanted to turn back. She retreated to C4, and Thile Nuru returned with her; they remained in C4 for the rest of the day. Her fingers were blue, but not even frostnipped.

  The weather had become extremely windy and very cold. The other six climbers continued their ascent. Lewis, who was very fast, raced to the summit at 8:00 am of 12 May, and Lhakpa Nuru was not far behind. They stayed on the top to await the arrival of the other two members and two Sherpas.

  But Edge and Falconer, with Ang Pasang and Jangbu, according to Mazur, who did not himself climb above C3, were held up at the bottom of the South Summit by a crowd of as many 20 climbers from the Canadian-led Peak Freaks expedition. Their leader, Tim Rippel was in BC, and walkie-talkie communications was virtually impossible because of the fierce winds. With his group at the South Summit was his deputy, Angel Armesto, who according to Mazur, was not providing strong leadership. Mazur said that the members were stuck, not knowing what to do in this dark, cold, very windy situation while they were suffering from the cold; they were virtually paralyzed, he said, and because of their number, were preventing anyone else from moving up or down for an hour and a half.

  Lewis, realizing the impasse, shouted down to them to move, get off the trail, get out of the way, let others go up. Mazur understands that they then turned around and descended. Rippel did not mention such any incident or aborted summit bid; he said his people summited on the 13th of May. [Note: this incident is also not mentioned in the SummitClimb dispatches on their web site.]

  At any rate, Edge, Falconer, Ang Pasang and Jangbu did get to the top at 9:30 am and all returned to C4 for the night, arriving there at 3:00 pm. All were down in C2 on the 13th and BC on the 14th.

  Oxygen was used by the members in C3 to their high points down to about C2, wherever their individual supplies ran out. Their Sherpas were on oxygen from about 7600m to their high points only.

  Non-summiting members:
   
  Ms. Paula Leonard mentioned above.

  Dan Mazur, who was leader of record of the Summit Climb Lhotse team, did not go above C3.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Pasang Sherpa, 15/6/84 (2/3/2041), Patle, Okhaldhunga, no 8000ers
    Jangbu Sherpa, 24/5/67, Patle, Okhaldhunga, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X4, Lhotse X1
    Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa, 21/8/81, Phakding, Solu, Everest X2, Lhotse X1
    Thile Nuru Sherpa, 26/5/74, Choplung, Solu, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X1, Lhotse X1


expid: EVER11137
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Chhurim Dolma Sherpa
sponsor: Sherpa on Everest
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Lobuche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2011-04-16
smtdate: 2011-05-12
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2011-05-25
campsites: BC(16/04,5400m),C1(22/04,6100m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(10/05,7300m),C4(11/05,7900m),Smt(12,19/05)
achievment: 1st double summit for women
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Chhurim left C4 for summit at 9 pm on 11 May along with other clients and Sherpas of Arun Treks. She reached the summit at 7 am. Other climbers on summit were Ms Jamsenpa from India and Hassan from Pakistan. This group was the first one to reach to the summit. All together there were 13 climbers on the summit. She stayed on summit about 10-15 minutes, then descended to C4 where she arrived at 12:30 pm and spent the night there. Next day on 13 May went down to C2 and following day to BC.

  Second summit push of Ms Chhurim started from C4 at 4 pm on 18 May with Chhiring Bhote sponsored by Himalayan Sherpa Treks and Expedition. Ms Chhurim reached summit at 9 am on 19 May. They stayed on summit for about 30 minutes then descended to C4 where they arrived at 2:30 pm. They spent the night there and next day 20 May went down to BC. At the beginning there was snowfall and strong wind. They stopped at Balcony for some time. The weather during the summit day was good.

  Sherpa:
    Chhiring Lama Bhote, 1/12/87, Hatiya-1, Makalu-Barun, Lhotse X1


expid: EVER11138
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Anshu Jamsenpa
sponsor: Team Arunachal Everest Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Dingboche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2011-04-16
smtdate: 2011-05-12
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2011-05-24
campsites: BC(16/04,5300m),C1(22/04,6100m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(07/05,7300m),C4(11/05,7900m),Smt(12,21/05)
achievment: 1st Indian woman to summit twice and 1st mother to summit twice
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  First attempt Jamsenpa left BC to C2 on 4 May. She got problem in her leg. On 7 May she went to C3 and slept there. Next day on 8 May Jamsenpa team had to go down to C2 due to bad weather, there was storm.

  Second attempt started on 10 May, she went to C3 from BC and on 11 May they got to South Col. Jamsenpa and Lhakpa Rangdu left South Col for summit at 9 pm on 11 May and reached the top at 7 am on 12 May. They stayed on summit for 10-15 minutes and returned to C4 where they arrived at 12:30 pm. They spent the night in South Col. Next day 13 May went down to C2 and the following day 13 May to BC. The summit day weather was cloudy, windy and very cold. Ms Chhurim (Dolma) Sherpa was behind Jamsenpa and the Pakistani climber Hassan was also on the summit on that day.

  Jamsenpa started her second summit push from BC to C2 on 18 May. The team reached C2 on 19 May and South Col on 20 May. Jamsenpa, Lhakpa Rangdu and Ngima Nuru left C4 at 11 pm. They reached summit at 5 am on 21 May. They stayed on summit for 30 minutes. The weather was very good on that day. They met on summit Namge Sherpa wieth Austrian client coming up from north side. Five climbers were already on the summit when Jamsenpa team got there. Behind her after 30 minutes many climbers started coming up. The team got back to C4 at 9 am and had rest for three hours then descended to C2 where they reached at 5 pm. Next day 22 May went down to BC.

  Jamsenpa became second woman to summit twice on same route and in same reason and first mother (two daughters) and first Indian.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Randu Sherpa, 18/11/67, Tala Kharka, Sotang, Solu, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X3
    Ngima Nuru Sherpa, 6/11/81, Tesho, Khumbu, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X2

  Note:
    Ngima Nuru Sherpa claims summit for 12 May and confirmed by Ministry list.


expid: EVER11142
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Greg Vernovage
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Everest Expedition 2011
countries: Australia, Costa Rica, Dominican Republic, Germany, Mexico, Norway
bcdate: 2011-04-11
smtdate: 2011-05-05
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2011-05-24
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East
campsites: BC(11/04,5350m),C1(20/04,5900m),C2(22/04,6550m),C3(01/05,7300m),C4(12/05),Smt(05,13-14,21/05)
agency: Beyul Adventure
routememo:
  After establishing BC on 1 April, the expedition went to Lobuche for an acclimatization climb. All members and half of the 55-strong Sherpa team summited on 15 April. They went back to Everest BC the next day.

  The members went to the summit in three groups, but first, two of their Sherpas participated in the final rope-fixing effort and reached the summit on 5 May. Karma Gelgen and Phu Tshering left C2 at 00:20 hours on the 5th, left C4 at 6:38 am and worked their way to the summit at 4:00 pm. They spent that night back in C4.

  The first summit group left C4 on 12 May at 8:30 pm. These members were Bunce, Elrod, Grotli, Hamill, Matty, Rindahl and Schlimme. With them were Sherpas Kalden Phura, Kancha Nuru (Pangboche), Karma Rita, Pasang Nuru, Phinjo Dorje and Sanduk Dorje Tamang.

  Schlimme got as high as the Balcony at 8500m on the 13th, but was too tired to continue the ascent. He turned back and Karma Rita accompanied him in his descent to BC. All the other members and Sherpas continued up to the summit, which they reached between 6:40 am (Matty) and 7:20 am (Grotli). All members (except Bunce who stopped in C4) descended to C2. Bunce got back to his tent at 1:30 pm; the others reached C2 between 3:00 pm and 6:00 pm.

  The second party, Austin, Derby, Gottfurcht, Maison, Pastor and Zaitzeff, plus Sherpas Da Nuru, Danuru, Dorje Lama, Kancha Nuru (Phortse), Nima Karma and Phu Tashi, left C4 at 8:30 pm on the 13th.

  Maison got all the way to the South Summit on 14 May, but then turned back because he was extremely tired; Dorje Lama retreated with him. The rest of the party went to the main summit on the 14th between 4:35 am (Pastor) and 6:18 pm (Gottfurcht). All went down to C2, where they arrived between 3:00 pm and 9:00 pm.

  The last party started from C4 on the 20th at 9:00 pm. They were Arnette, Mirjam Beaudoin, Gomez, Jovine, Mella, Millard, Reckord and Weiner, and Sherpas Ang Chhiring, Karma Rita (who had come back up the mountain after escorting Schlimme down to BC), Mingma Dorje, Mingma Tenzing, another Mingma Tenzing, Nima Nuru, Panuru, Pasang Rinji and Pasang Yila.

  Jovine and Reckord stopped at the Balcony; they were too tired to continue; Nima Nuru descended with Jovine; Reckord, who was the leader for IMG's Lhotse team, went down by himself. The rest of the climbers reached the summit between 4:30 am (Mirjam Beaudoin) and 8:20 am (Weiner). All descended to C2 where they arrived from 12:30 pm to 9:00 pm.

  Other non-summiting members:

  Jay Beaudoin climbed up to C3 on 28 April, then ran out the energy.

  Bemis got to C2 on 28 April, then had no energy to continue.

  Eubank lost motivation when he got to C3 and went no farther.

  Hitch approached C3 on 1 May, then collapsed and died [probable heart attack].

  Merle (deputy leader) was with Bemis when he got to C2 and turned around with him.

  Soto reached C2 on 26 April, then was too tired to continue.

  Vernovage leader stayed in C2 to direct this big expedition of 28 members and 55 climbing Sherpa.

  Oxygen was used by all members who made summit bids in C3 to their high points to C2. The Sherpas were on it in C4 to their high points to C4.

  The only health problem was Austin's seriously frostbitten fingertips. They became frostbitten on his summit day, but he is not expected to lose any tips.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Chhiring (Kami Tshering), 1962 (2019), Pangboche, Everest X10, Cho Oyu X7
    Da Nuru/Danuru, 19/5/59, Phortse, Everest X8, Cho Oyu X6, Makalu X1
    Danuru, 26/10/78, Phortse, Everest X12, Cho Oyu X8
    Kalden Phura, 27/2/87, Pangboche, Everest X3
    Kancha Nuru, 5/12/87, Pangboche, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1
    Kancha Nuru, 30/11/82, Phortse, Everest X3
    Karma Gyalzen/Gelgen, 23/4/87, Phortse, Everest X1
    Karma Rita, 21/1/76, Phortse, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X1
    Mingma Dorje, 22/7/65, Phortse, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X2
    Mingma Tenzing, 1/6/86, Phortse, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X6
    Mingma Tenzing, 10/6/92 (28/2/2049), Phortse, no 8000ers
    Nima Karma, 30/6/83, Phortse, Everest X4
    Nima Nuru, 20/6/71, Thami, moved to Pangboche, Everest 24/5/10 with IMG
    Panuru/Pa Nuru, 22/5/68, Phortse, Everest X8, Cho Oyu X4
    Pasang Nuru, 30/1/73, Phortse, Everest X2
    Pasang Rinji, 18/1/77, Phortse, Everest X4
    Pasang Yila, 27/12/77, Pangboche, Everest X4
    Phinjo Dorje, 3/9/86, Pangboche, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X1
    Phu Tshering, 24/8/77 (8/5/2034), Phortse, Everest 5/5/10 with IMG
    Phu Tashi, 17/11/72, Pangboche, Everest X9, Cho Oyu X3
    Sanduk Dorje Tamang, 31/5/83, Pangboche, Everest X5


  Mirjam Beadouin - 23 Feb 2012

  Hello,
   
  My name is Mirjam Beaudoin (Germany) and I summited Mt. Everest (South) on May 21st, 2011 as listed in your database. I was very happy to see my name on your list! Thank you for updating the 2011 season.
   
  However, the summit time is not quite correct. I summited with Mingma Tenzing Sherpa (Phortse, Nepal) prior 5:00 am and before Alan Arnette and Karim Mella.
   
  I know this is only a minor correction, however I know that there was another woman from Germany summiting from the north side and I just would like to make sure that my summit time is correct and that I am the fourth Germany woman to successfully summit Mt. Everest.
   
  I would appreciate the update to show the correct sequence of Everest ascents on May 21st, 2011.
   
  Thank you and kind regards,
  Mirjam Beaudoin


expid: EVER11144
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Theo Fritsche
sponsor: The Sherpas' Quest 2011
countries: Germany
bcdate: 2011-04-22
smtdate: 2011-05-22
termdate: 2011-05-31
termnote: Abandoned at 8600m due to bad weather and fatigue
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (by 5 members and 3 Sherpas on 9 April)
campsites: BC(22/04,5200m),ABC(29/04,6420m),C1(06/05,7070m),C2(20/05,7700m),C3(21/05,8250m),xxx(22/05,8600m)
agency: High Country Trekking
routememo:
  A [stated] principal aim of the expedition was to come to understand and film the life of climbing Sherpas from Khumbu. So first they trekked amongst the villages of Khumbu and scaled Island Peak (all members except Leger and three Sherpas summited on 9 April).

  Then they went into Tibet and on 22 April arrived at Chinese base camp for their movements on Everest. On their return to Kathmandu, the leader, Theo Fritsche, and member of Jochen Hemmleb, who is an expert on the history of Everest climbs, said they had made no attempt to find the body of Andrew Irvine, who disappeared in 1924 with George Mallory, of their camera (their focus was entirely on Sherpas).

  However, one of the Sherpas who was with the team, Pasang Gelu, said that they had indeed looked for them, and it became clear that what Fritsche and Hemmleb had called summit bids were actually high-altitude searches.

  Pasang Gelu was one of the climbers who searched in two areas of Everest's north side. Their instructions were to go to specific areas with a metal detector. The first search was conducted on 22 May, when he, Nima Tenji and Phurba were told to go up to 8600m and look carefully from the top of the Second Step down in the area along the NE Ridge to look for the body that Chinese earlier had called the "English dead" and to use the metal detector at the same time.

  According to Pasang Gelu (not to Fritsche and Hemmleb, who provided different details), the three Sherpas left C3 at 5:00 am. They climbed together to 8600m and moved down as far as about 8450m, but the area was covered by very deep snow. They found no body and no metal objects except oxygen bottles. They returned to C3 at 2:00 pm.

  Their second search began from C3 at 2:00 am on the 26th, said Pasang Gelu. This time the party consisted of the same three Sherpas plus the leader's son Stefan. They covered an area from 8300m to 8500m on steep moraine on the left side of the Great Couloir only lightly covered by a sprinkling of snow. The weather was cloudy and a fierce wind was blowing that destroyed many tents. Again no body or camera was found. They were back in C3 at 11:30 am and continued all the way down to ABC, where they arrived at 5:00 pm.

  The remaining Sherpas and members were in ABC on the 27th. The climb was now over because, Fritsche and Hemmleb said, the weather was bad and everyone was tired.

  Oxygen was used in the first search by the three Sherpas in C3 to their high points at 8600m to C3. In the second search, they used it from C3 to their high point, 8450m, down to 8000m to 8450m and down to 8000m.

  Sherpas:
    Nima Tenji, 1980, Balukhof, Kharikhola-7, Everest X2
    Pasang Gelu, 1/10/82 (15/7/2029), Kurima, Lokhim-9, Solu, no 8000ers
    Phurba/Phurba Ongel, 30/7/81 (15/4/2038), Sedua, Makalu-9, Everest X1, 
      Annapurna X1


expid: EVER11145
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Ron Hoglin
sponsor: Top Peaks Only Everest
bcdate: 2011-04-14
smtdate: 2011-05-21
termdate: 2011-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 8460m due to breathing difficulty
campsites: BC(14/04,5200m),ABC(19/04,6400m),C1(30/04,7000m),C2(19/05,7850m),C3(20/05,8350m),xxx(21/05,8460m)
agency: Adventure Extreme
routememo:
  Hoglin arrived at C3 on 20 May at 8350m, set up his tent there and rested. Then he left for the summit at midnight. He turned back at 8460m at 1:30 am on the 21st in good weather conditions, but with a cold wind blowing.

  He turned back because he was having difficulty breathing. "I had a bad cough and when I did cough, my lungs would burn; that may have also made it hard for me to breathe. I'm very happy to have made it down without any other problems," he wrote in an email. He descended all the way to ABC that day.

  This was "my second time trying Everest without using bottled oxygen, and I have to say it definetely is a challenge. For me, all in all, it was a good climb even so not reaching the summit. I can't say if I would give it another try. Time will tell!"


expid: EVER11146
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Tim Rippel
sponsor: Peak Freaks Everest Expedition 2011
countries: Argentina, Australia, Bolivia, Finland, Netherlands, Sweden, USA
bcdate: 2011-04-08
smtdate: 2011-05-13
smttime: 0430
termdate: 2011-05-16
campsites: BC(08/04,5845m),C1(19/04,6000m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(10/05,7100m),C4(11/05,7900m),Smt(13/05)
agency: Senge Treks & Expeditions
routememo:
  This large expedition made just one summit bid. On 12 May the summit party of 9 members and 10 Sherpas left C4 for the top at 7:45 pm. They were Armesto, Carvallo, Dellis, Farebrother, Miranda, Pappas, Ross, Setian and Sinivaara, plus Sherpas Ang Namgyal, Dawa Tshering, another Dawa Tshering, Jangbu, Mingmar, Namgya Tshering, Palden Namgye, Phu Tashi, Sonam Finjo, and Urken Lendu. 

  But not everybody was able to summit; the dropouts were:

  Ms. Laura Ross was too tired to go beyond 8200m and turned back to C4 that day and down to C2 on the 13th.

  Ms. Kathy Setian suffered from the effects of an overdose of Diamox and also turned back at 8200m to C4 on the 12th.

  Mingmar and Ang Namgya turned back with them.

  Armesto stopped at the bottom of the Hillary Step because of stomach trouble and retreated (no Sherpa went back with him).

  Ms Georgina Miranda gave up just below the Balcony at about 8400m and descended to C2 with the successful summiters; she also had stomach trouble.

  Dellis suffered from very cold hands by the time he reached the bottom of the Hillary Step and abandoned his summit bid (Phu Tashi turned back with Dellis).

  That left four successful members with six Sherpas. Carvallo, Farebrother, Pappas and Sinivaara summited between 4:30 am and 6:30 am on 2 May and all descended t C2 the same day. The Sherpa summiters were both Dawa Tsherings, Namgyal Tshering, Palden Namgye, Sonam Pinzo and Urken Lendu, who also went down to C2 that day. All were back in BC on the 24th.

  The team consumed 87 bottles of oxygen. Members on oxygen from C3 to their high points to wherever their individual supplies ran out just above C3 or lower. Sherpas used it from C4 to high points to C4.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Namgya, 21/6/80 (8/3/2027), Phortse/Pangboche, Everest X5
    Dawa Tshering, 10/9/81 (25/5/2038), Khunde, Kangchenjunga X1, Everest X2
    Dawa Tshering, 5/12/82 (20/8/2039), Khumjung, no 8000ers
    Jangbu, 18/6/65 (4/3/2022), Bakachol-9, Khotang, Everest X5
    Mingmar, 22/7/7 (4/7/2027), Damar, Jantarkhani-9, Okhaldhunga, Everest X4
    Namgyal Tshering, 22/8/82 (6/5/2029), Khumjung, Everest X3
    Palden Namgye, 20/9/72 (4/6/2029), Phortse, Everest X4, Lhotse X4, Manaslu X1,
      Annapurna X1
    Phu Tashi, 23/10/77 (7/7/2034), Phortse, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1
    Sonam Finjo, 3/10/85 (17/6/2042), Khunde, Everest X2
    Urken Lendu, 16/2/93 (5/11/2049), Phortse, no 8000ers


expid: EVER11147
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Willie Benegas
sponsor: Patagonian Brothers Everest Expedition 2011
countries: Argentina, Palestine
bcdate: 2011-04-12
smtdate: 2011-05-20
termdate: 2011-05-24
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East to east shoulder
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),C1(28/04,6100m),C2(30/04,6400m),C3(19/05,7130m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(20-21/05)
achievment: 1st Palestinian summiter
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  After arriving at BC, the team went to nearby Lobuche East for an acclimatization climb. They reached its east shoulder about 19 or 20 April and then returned to Everest BC on the 23rd.

  The expedition pitched their last on the South Col on 20 May, and their plan was to leave for the summit on the 21st, after a day of rest. But Dawa Gyalzen unexpectedly got ahead of the rest of the team and went to the summit on the 20th by himself.

  The rest of the group mounted their bid for the summit on 20 May, when five members and five Sherpas left C4 at 10:15 pm. They were Al Houby, Damian Benegas, Erroz, McLean and Lally, plus Sherpas Dawa Temba, Mingma Tenji, Pasang Nima, Pasang Nima, Pasang Tendi and Phura Gyalzen.

  They all arrived at the top together at 8:30 am on the 21st and stayed in C4 from 1:00 am till the next morning, when they went down to C2, except for McLean, who descended all the way to BC that day (he got to BC at 4:00 pm).

  But Damian Benegas and Erroz didn't return to C2 until after midnight: they were delayed by taking part in the rescue of Lhotse Spanish climbers Manuel (Lolo) Gonzalez, Roberto Rodrigo and Ms Maria Garcia. All joined McLean in BC on the 23rd.

  McLean got mild frostbite on one of his big toes.

  Oxygen was used by Al Houby from C1 to the summit to C2. Mclean used it from C2 to the top to C2. Damian Benegas, Erroz and Lally used it from C3 to the top to C2. Mingma Tenji used oxygen in C4 to the top to C4, but the other Sherpas used it from C3 to the top to C3.

  Non-summiting members:

  Willie Benegas developed an ulcer in one eye in BC and returned to Kathmmandu for medical treatment. He returned to the mountain and ascended to C2 on 4 May, went back to Kathmandu and returned to BC on 16 May. He remained in BC and finally left with the others about ten days later.

  Larson went up to C3 on 13 or 14 May, then stayed in BC until the team withdrew.

  Reca got to C3 on 7 May, but had to leave the expedition on the 21st because of hernia.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Gyalzen, 24/7/67, Lukla, Solu, Broad Peak X1
    Dawa Temba, 8/7/89 (24/3/2046), Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha, no 8000ers
    Mingma Tenji, 7/11/84 (22/7/2041), Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha, Everest X2, 
      Lhotse X1, Makalu X1, Dhaulagiri I X1
    Pasang Nima/Ngima, 11/10/1987, Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha, Dhaulagiri I X1
    Pasang Tendi, 27/10/83, Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha, Everest X8
    Phura/Phurba Gyalzen, 24/1/84, Pangkoma, Jubing-4, Solu, Everest X2, Kangch X1, 
      Cho Oyu X1


expid: EVER11148
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Herbert Wolf
sponsor: Everest Expedition
countries: Germany
approach: Pangboche->Dingboche->Kongma La
bcdate: 2011-04-15
smtdate: 2011-05-03
termdate: 2011-05-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to Nadler's ill health
campsites: BC(15/04,5255m),C1(20/04,6055m),C2(02/05,6470m),xxx(03/05,6700m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  15/04  5355m
  C1  20/04  6055m
  C2  02/05  6470m
  HPt 03/05  6700m by Wolf, Nadler, Chuldim Sherpa at bottom of Lhotse Face.

  On 3 May the team left C2 at 6 am. Nadler had not been feeling well and and he had developed a fever (he had been unwell most of the expedition). When they got to the bottom of the Lhotse Face at about 7:30 am they decided to turn around to C2. They spent the night at C2 and descended to BC the following day 5 May.


expid: GAUR11101
peakid: GAUR
year: 2011
route1: Pillar on S Face
nation: Germany
leaders: David Goettler
sponsor: German Gaurishankar Expedition
approach: Simigaon->Khadka hamlet->Rolwaling Chhu->Tangmarnang steep gorge
bcdate: 2011-04-25
smtdate: 2011-05-08
termdate: 2011-05-11
termnote: Abandoned at 5100m due to impossible conditions on face
campsites: BC(25/04,3670m),C1(01/05,4600m),C2(06/05,5050m),xxx(08-09/05,5100m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC on side of Tengmarnang steep gorge
  C1 at moraine (was snow covered)
  C1 at start of South Face
  High point at bottom of South Face.

  From 5 April onwards, the weather every day was nice for three hours, then it became cloudy and humid, and from noon for the rest of the day rain or snow fell. There was new wet snow on the South Face, some spindrift and some avalanching on the edge.

  The three members moved together throughout their climb. They located their C1 on 1 May at 4600m on the face below the start of the pillar they proposed to climb; in was in a moraine area now covered with snow. They fixed 60 meters of rope up from the camp on very steep wet rock.

  They spent two nights in this camp while they carried loads up to a higher site for C1 at 5050m; each day they had to break a new trail in the fresh snow.

  The new C1 was at the start of the South Face. They spent the nights of 6 and 7 May there, and from there they tried their climb of the face by two different lines. Glowacz on 7 May attempted to climb rock, but it was impossible on wet rock over which water was running over snow with no protection from any rock structure. The next day Goettler tried a line to the left of Glowacz's line, but it too proved to be impossible because of very loose snow over rocks. Each man climbed just one pitch and then gave up.

  They knew they they could never climb in these conditions from C1's 5060m up 1800 meters of face to a large snowfield. They decided on 9 May that their attempt to climb Gaurishankar was finished, and they descended to BC. Two days later they went up to 4200m to retrieve their gear which they had left there in a bag.


  Lindsay Griffin (email) - 12 Jan 2014

  Poles made the first significant attempt on the South Face in 1983, coming in from the left to gain the steep, shallow couloir left of the Central Pillar. Wieslaw Grzybowski, Lech Kiedrowski, Andrzej Mirga and Tadeusz Preyzner reached ca 6000m before making a difficult retreat in heavy snowfall. In 1985 the same line was attempted by Tsuyoshi Ohizumi and Kensaku Sakai. Three years previously the latter had made a notable first ascent of 7163m Hachindar Chhish in the Karakoram. The Japanese pair climbed in three days to 6100m when Sakai fell and hit his head. They bivouacked and descended the next day, but at 5900m Sakai fell again, this time to the bottom of the face. Ohizumi was unable to locate his body and the face was left alone until 2011 when Stefan Glowacz, David Goettler and Klaus Fengler arrived to attempt the Central Pillar. The weather was so bad they were only able to climb a rope-length above the base before giving up.


expid: KANG11101
peakid: KANG
year: 2011
route1: SW Face
nation: Turkey
leaders: Guntis Brands, Tunc Findik
sponsor: Findik Kangchenjunga Expedition
ascent1: 94th
countries: Switzerland
approach: Helicopter to Tseram->Ramche
bcdate: 2011-04-13
smtdate: 2011-05-20
smttime: 0920
termdate: 2011-05-23
campsites: BC(13/04,5500m),C1(29/05,6100m),C2(30/04,6450m),C3(17/05,7100m),C4(19/05,7500m),Smt(20/05)
achievment: 1st Turk to summit
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Findik and Dawa left C4 at 9:30 pm on 19 May. They reached top at 9:20 am of 20 May. They stayed on summit for 30 minutes. When they arrived two Indians and a Sherpa were just going down from the summit and Australian climber Falahey was also seen going down. Maria and Sangle were on summit after Findik. Both Findik and Dawa returned to C4 at 3 pm. They slept at C4 next day and then both went down to BC. The summit day weather was good, clear sky, no wind and warm day. 

  Fellow climber of Findik Brands started from C4 at 8 pm on 19 May. He met Spanish climber Cadiach who was climbing without supplementary oxygen at about 8100m. Cadiach was not moving and was in bad shape. Brands passed him and returned from 8200m and gave Cadiach oxygen. At the beginning Cadiach refused to take oxygen, but Brands forced him to use it. Cadiach was trembling; with the help of oxygen Cadiach recovered energy and both came to C4 at 8:30 am. Next day Brands went down to C2 and following day to BC.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Sherpa, 16/6/69, Tamakhani, Loding-9, Solu, Everest X6, Makalu X1


expid: KANG11102
peakid: KANG
year: 2011
route1: SW Face
nation: UK
leaders: Ted Atkins
sponsor: Topout Kangchenjunga Expedition
ascent1: 89th
countries: Ireland
bcdate: 2011-04-12
smtdate: 2011-05-20
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2011-05-23
campsites: BC(12/04,5500m),C1(16/04,6173m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3(17/05,7000m),C4(19/05,7500m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Both members and their two Sherpas, Dawa Finchok and Mingma Temba left C4 for the summit at 7:30 pm on 19 May. The four climbers arrived at the top between 8:00 and 8:15 am on the 20th in "fantastic:" weather with little wind, and were back in C4 at 2:00 pm that day.

  They started down from C4 at 8:30 am on the 21st and ten minutes later encountered Cleo Wiedlich, an American independent climber, and her two Sherpas; she had a badly injured leg and was expecting to be evacuated by helicopter from C2 at 11 am. They waited for her in C2, but she did not show up; she had remained that night in C3. They went up on the 22nd to C3 to find Wiedlich, and took her down to C2. They reached C2 at 6:30 pm, then got down to BC on the 23rd; she was "pretty tired."

  Murphy's toes were slightly frostbitten and became numb, but no flesh was damaged.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Finchok Sherpa, 16/7/82, Lamabagar-3, Dolakha, Everest X1, Dhaulagiri X1
    Mingma Temba Sherpa, 28/4/88, Walung, Makalu-9, no 8000ers


expid: KANG11103
peakid: KANG
year: 2011
route1: SW Face
nation: USA
leaders: Cleo Weidlich
sponsor: Kangchenjunga Expedition 2011
ascent1: 88th
bcdate: 2011-04-13
smtdate: 2011-05-20
smttime: 0748
termdate: 2011-05-22
campsites: BC(13/04,5536m),C1(18/04,6278m),C2(19/04,6680m),C3(18/05,7200m),C4(19/05,7800m),Smt(20/05)
accidents: Weidlich fell, then diagnosed with cerebral edema and greatly impaired vision
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Weidlich successfully summited Kangchenjunga, but nearly died on her descent. She left C4 for the top with Pema Tshering on 19 May at 8:00 pm. When she reached 8530m at 6:00 am the next morning, the crampon on her right foot skidded off a rock that was covered with ice. She had torn a ligament in her knee and was in "horrible" pain, but she continued on the to the summit, which she and Pema Tshering reached at 7:48 am on 20 May. Since she was in pain, she lingered at the top for only three minutes before starting to descend.

  At 8570m they met a Chinese climber, Rao Jian-Feng, who was in serious trouble. His oxygen supply was exhausted, he had no Sherpa with him, and he was "frozen in fear," Weidlich said. Pema Tshering stayed with him while Weidlich, despite her pain and what she thought was snowblindness (her goggles were lost when she skidded on the icy rock), managed to get down to C4 at 4:15 pm. She had crawled much of the way because of her limited vision.

  The next morning, the 21st, she was totally blind. Pema, the Kangchenjunga expedition's organizer Mingma Sherpa, and Mingma's brother helped her down to 7300m to a plateau 100m above C3. She stayed there overnight. The morning after that, the 22nd, she heard voices outside the tent which the Sherpas had pitched for her; Anselm Murphy and Ted Atkins, the members of a British team, were there and helped her get to C2, from where a helicopter flew her to Kathmandu for hospitalization.

  She was on oxygen from C4 to the summit down to 8400m where it ran out. She was using oxygen which Ted Atkins gave her in C3 to C2.

  The above events were described by Weidlich on 27 May in her Kathmandu hotel. A report written by Anselm Murphy on the 27th or 28th fills in details she had forgotten or was unaware of  her state of pain with a torn ligament, limited vision and probable cerebral edema, which could have caused her blindness. His nine-page account fills in the gaps. 

  "Cleo got into trouble on the way down. On descent from the summit she began to lose her vision, and she had also sustained an injury to her right knee which occurred at 8500m that turns out have been ruptured parallel ligaments." She managed to get down to her high camp. "The morning of the next day she was not in good shape. Ted Atkins examined her and she complained that she felt great pressure pushing on the backs of her eyes. This, along with the fact that she had trouble walking and needed to sit down frequently, and her irrational refusal to take oxygen or drugs convinced Ted that she was suffering from cerebreal edema."

  "Cleo left with her Sherpas before me and I watched her from a distance. She seemded to be taking only a few steps, aided by a Sherpa holding each arm, before sitting down to rest. Progress was painfully slow. I approached her and found Mingma near Cleo using her satellite phone to request a helicopter evacuation. She seemed to think this was possible from our current altitude (about 7400m), but was told that she needed to get down lower, preferably to C3. I talked to Cleo and tried to convince her to allow us to give her a shot of dexamethasone, a drug that would help her with her cerebral edema. She initially refused, so I talked to Mingma to see if he could influence her. Eventually I succeeded in persuading her, and a few minutes Ted Atkins arrived, who administered the shot."

  "I now said that I would hurry down to C3 and look for a suitable area for the helicopter and find something to mark it with. Ted also decided to come down, but was a short while behind me. I was very tired at this time and progress was very slow, I had to take frequent breaks. Ted later reported that the shot of dexamethasone kicked in about 10 minutes after it had been given and Cleo perked up a bit. I eventually reached C3 where many climbers were stopping for a brief rest on their way down to base camp. I was extremely slow when I arrived which I attribute primarily to dehydration --- the weather (now) changed and visibility became very poor, so the helicopter rescue was definitely off for that day."

  Gradually all the other climbers descended from C3. "Only Ted and I and several Sherpas were left. The Sherpas seemed primarily concerned with clearing the camp of gear -- tents, oxygen, other equipment. At this moment Ted and I made the decision to stay at C3 in order to help Cleo. We were very worried that the Sherpas wanted to take everything down, and that no equipment would be left to aid Cleo..." We met with strong resistance from the Sherpas when we requested they leave behind some oxygen. But the Sherpas were dead set to remove all the oxygen... "Unbelievably, with a woman's life in danger, (one Sherpa) refused to let us have" the full bottle he was removing unless we paid him $400 (normal price $280). Even more unbelievably, it later transpired that this was not even his oxygen to sell, as he claimed, but belonged to his client, who had already descended. With no choice, Ted and I agreed to pay him at base camp... We also managed to get a 2/3rds full bottle from the Sherpa sirdar after quite a bit of persuasion. We also had to fight to prevent him from taking down all the tents, so he left one 3-man tent that Ted and I could stay in and use as a base to help Cleo." There also was a communications problem: Atkins, Murphy and Weidlich had no walkie-talkie.

  "Soon everyone had descended and it was just Ted and I left at C3. Then one of the Cleo's Sherpas arrived. He said that Cleo and the other Sherpas had put up a tent about 100m above our current position. (Camp 2 is located at the bottom of a large, steep ice serac and it had been decided that to get Cleo down this would be too difficult, and anyway the top of the serac was a good spot for the helicopter to pick her up.)" Apparently he had come down to find food and gas cylinders, but he refused their offer of both; when he reluctantly agreed to take an oxygen bottle to her but then oddly brought it back, saying she had refused it. (She later denied the refusal). He climbed back up the serac to join her for the night. The only people still on the mountain were Cleo, the Sherpas with her, Atkins and Murphy.

  Next morning, Murphy and Atkins each took an oxygen bottle up to Cleo's tent. The three Sherpas were there; Cleo was sitting in the otherwise empty tent and said she had not been given any food or water; Murphy gave her what little he had, then got her on oxygen, and this seemed to help. "She was very upset and worried and that she might not make it down. She was relieved to see me and said that the Sherpas had not been too helpful. I assured her that we would get her down somehow and would not leave her there. Ted arrived soon and administered another shot of dexamethasone, which again, after a few minutes, did seem to help.

  Atkins went back to C3 to pack up. Weidlich had used her satellite phone to call for a helicopter and was told that one would be sent that morning. (Then the phone's batteries went dead because of overuse by the Sherpas to make private calls). At about 10 am they heard the distant sound of rotor blades. It seemed the helicopter crew planned to pick her up by dropping a line to her for her to clip onto; her position was at about the helicopter's operational ceiling. It made a couple of passes over their heads but then swerved off down to the valley and disappeared into the distance. "Cleo took the disappointment well and just got on with it."

  Weidlich could not see slightly through her left eye and she was on oxygen. When they got to the serac, she said she could use her figure 8 descender; Murphy supervised her movements, and "after three abseils were on safe, easy ground and walked into C3." A Sherpa had taken down their tent; Atkins and Murphy asked the two Sherpas who had been with Weidlich and were about to descend to Camp 2 to take her with them while the two Britons packed up all their gear, which took them perhaps an hour and a half to do.

  Murphy started down first and after about 5 minutes, he came to "a snow slope that was not equipped with any fixed rope. If you fell on this slope and were not able to arrest the fall, you would slide off the edge of a serac and plummet to the glacier below. In the distance below me I saw a figure laying motionless in the snow. As I got closer I was shocked to see that it was Cleo. She was face down in the snow, facing downhill --- Looks like she was abandoned at an altitude of slightly under 7000m. If we had not found her, I believe she would have died. I woke her up and held onto her as I got her to right her position on the slope. She was extremely distressed and crying and didn't know how she had got there. She started telling me to go down and leave her... I doubled the flow rate on her oxygen set to 31 minutes. After a couple of minutes she was calmed down and in a better state.

  Atkins had joined them. There was an urgent need for everyone to get down as quickly as possible. "At this stage, it was the seventh day above base camp for each of us, with six of those days being above 7000m. We were in poor shape and everything was a struggle." They moved down in single file with Weidlich in the middle. The area they were in traversed a snow slope above a serac and had no fixed rope; a fall here could be fatal. Weidlich had a minor fall, but her escort got her back on track. But now it was midday with avalanche risk.

  They finally arrived at C2 in a snowstorm only to find that all tents and equipments had been cleared away by the Sherpas. "We descended a few minutes below the regular Camp 2 to a where a few tents had previously been place in the hope that they might still be there. They were not. But one of the Sherpas was about to carry away Weidlich's three-man tent; he was asked to put it up and he did. Weidlich, Murphy and Atkins now spent the night in it. They were at 6400m and "Cleo was noticeably improved."

  "We were woken in the morning at about 6:30 am by two Sherpas (not previously involved with the situation). They had brought us sandwiches and the news that a helicopter was on its way. Sure enough, it arrived in about an hour. To our great relief, it managed to pick Cleo up and fly her to safety."

  Sherpas:
    Mingma Sherpa, 16/5/78, Nurbu Char, Makalu-9, with his own summit success 
      on Kangchenjunga on 20 May, he has scaled all 8000ers (he runs a Kathmandu 
      trekking agency)
    Pemba Tshering, 16/6/70, Mathilow, Walung, Makalu-9, Everest X3, Lhotse X1, 
      Dhaulagiri X2, Annapurna X1


expid: KANG11104
peakid: KANG
year: 2011
route1: SW Face
nation: Iran
leaders: Azim Gheichisaz
sponsor: An Iranian to Kangchenjunga
ascent1: 82nd
approach: Ramche->Yalung Kang camp->Yalung Glacier camp
bcdate: 2011-04-21
smtdate: 2011-05-20
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2011-05-23
campsites: BC(21/04,5500m),C1(25/04,6100m),C2(29/04,6400m),C3(03/05,7100m),C4(18/05,7500m),Smt(20/05)
achievment: 1st Iranian to summit
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Gheichisaz started his summit push at 6 pm of 19 May from C4. He got to the top at 6 am of 20 May. Gheichisaz stayed on summit for about 20-30 minutes, then descended to C4 where he arrived at 3 pm and spent the night there. Next day on 21st May descended to BC. On the summit with him were Mingma Sherpa, Yang from China, one from Azerbaijan and Sherpas. On his way down many other climbers were coming up. The weather was very good, no wind clear sky. The Indian side of the mountain was cloudy.

  According to Gheichisaz four climbers did not use oxygen: himself, Alex, Nicolas and Mario.


expid: KANG11105
peakid: KANG
year: 2011
route1: SW Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Mingma Sherpa
sponsor: 14 8000m Challenge Expedition
ascent1: 83rd
approach: Plane to Bhadrapur, jeep to Tharpu->Yamphudin->Taranding->Ramche
bcdate: 2011-05-01
smtdate: 2011-05-20
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2011-05-23
campsites: BC(01/05,5400m),C2(03/05,6600m),C3(04/05,7200m),C4(17/05,7600m),Smt(20/05)
accidents: Frostbite on left toe (not serious)
achievment: 14th 8000er
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Mingma left C4 at 6 pm of 19 May and reached summit at  6am of 20 May. He stayed on summit for 30 minutes, then returned to C4 at 3 pm and slept there. Next day 21 May, went down to BC. Iranian climber Gheichisaz, Chinese climber Yang and some Sherpas were on summit at the same time. Summit day weather was very good.

  Fixed rope: 600m from BC to C1 and C2 to C4.


expid: KANG11106
peakid: KANG
year: 2011
route1: SW Face
nation: Russia
leaders: Alexei Bolotov
sponsor: Russian Kangchenjunga 2011
ascent1: 81st,92nd
countries: Azerbaijan, New Zealand
bcdate: 2011-04-07
smtdate: 2011-05-19
smttime: 0910
termdate: 2011-05-22
accidents: Sokolov's stomach trouble
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
campsites:
  BC(07/04,5500m),C1(12/04,6000m),C2(17/04,6200m),C3(20/04,7000m),C4A(28/04,7300m),C4B(07/05,7500m),Smt(19-20/05)

routememo:
  Three members summited independently on two different days. The first was Bolotov, who left C4 on the 18th at 10:00 pm and reached the summit at 9:00 am on 19 May. He climbed to the top with a French team led by Ludovic Challeat and returned to C4 sometime between 1:00 and 2:00 pm.

  Totmyanin followed Bolotov to the summit the same day. He left C4 alone at 4:00 am on 19 May and arrived at the top at 3:30 pm. He was back in C4 at 6:30 pm.

  Finally, Ashurly left C4 on the 19th at 6:00 pm with a big group of people from several expeditions. He summited at 9:00 am on the 20th and slept that night back in C4.

  The three summiters descended to BC quickly; the team left BC on the 22nd.

  Non-summiting members:

  Frolov went up to 6500m on 20 April, then left the expedition because of family problems at home.

  Lutokhin left C4 on 19 May to go for the summit, but was not in good condition and soon retreated to C4.

  Manuylov got to their high C4 at 7500m on the 19th, but was no longer well to continue and returned to C4.

  Sinev also got to 7500m on the 19th, then like Lutokhin and Manuylov was not well enough to continue and returned to C4.

  Sokolov began his summit bid from BC on 13 May. On the 19th he left their low C4 at 7300m, but managed to gain only 100-200 meters, then had to return to 7300m because of stomach trouble.

  The only member to use oxygen was Ashurly. He used it from C4 (7500m) to the summit but did not use it during his descent.


expid: KANG11112
peakid: KANG
year: 2011
route1: SW Face
nation: Serbia
leaders: Dragan Celikovic
sponsor: A Serbian on Kangchenjunga
ascent1: 86th
approach: Khebang->Yamphudin->Tortong->Tseram->Ramche->Yalung BC
bcdate: 2011-04-14
smtdate: 2011-05-20
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2011-05-24
campsites: BC(14/04,5500m),C1(18/04,6100m),C2(19/04,6500m),C3(15/05,7000m),C4(17/05,7500m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Celikovic and Pasang started their summit push from C4 at 6 pm on 19 May. They got to the top at 7:30 am of 20 May. They stayed on summit for about 30 minutes, then descended to C4 where they reached at 5 pm. They spent the night there. On 21 May they spent the night at C2. On 22 May they went down to BC. The summit day weather was good, no wind but little cloudy. Celikovic suffered from chest infection and severe cough while descending below C1. Celikovic was helicoptered from BC to Kathmandu on 24 May.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Sherpa, 27/4/78 (4/1/2025), Lelep-8, Taplejung, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1, 
      Kangch X1


expid: LHOT11101
peakid: LHOT
year: 2011
route1: W Face
nation: India
leaders: Arjun Vajpai
sponsor: Mt. Lhotse Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Dingboche->Lobuche
bcdate: 2011-04-20
smtdate: 2011-05-20
smttime: 0813
termdate: 2011-05-22
campsites: BC(20/04,5410m),C1(25/04,6000m),C2(01/05,6340m),C3(18/05,7100m),C4(19/05,7900m),Smt(20/05)
achievment: Youngest person to summit Lhotse
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Young climber Vajpai started his summit push at 3 am on 20 May from C4 with Naga Dorje, Nima Tshering and Nawang Tenzing. The team reached to the top at 8:13 am and stayed on summit between 30-45 minutes then descended to C4 at 10:30 am. Vajpai and his climbing Sherpas continued descending. They arrived C2 around 2 pm. Next day on 21st went down to BC. The summit day weather was excellent, clear sky, no wind and no clouds. There was one Japanese (Kondo) climber with one Sherpa on the summit. There were not any other climbers on the summit that day, Probably that was the day on which youngest person and oldest Japanese summited Lhotse.

  Fixed rope: Sherpas put up (no idea). 

  Sherpas:
    Nanda Dorje, 30/12/66 (15/9/2023), Khumjung, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X3
    Nima Tshering, 28/1/90 (15/10/2046), Khumjung, no 8000ers
    Nawang Tenzing, "Nawangle", 1/2/60, Phortse, Everest X3, Lhotse X2


expid: LHOT11102
peakid: LHOT
year: 2011
route1: W Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Miguel Angel Perez
sponsor: Perez Lhotse
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2011-05-06
smtdate: 2011-05-21
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2011-05-23
campsites: BC(06/05,5350m),C1(09/05,6000m),C2(10/05,6400m),C3(18/05,7300m),C4(19/05,7800m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Perez left C4 at 2:35 am. It was calm, but cold. He reached the summit just as Pauner and Oiarzabal started descending. He spent about 10 minutes on top. He descended to C4, where he arrived at 7 pm. The following day he descended to C2 where he arrived at 4 pm. On 23 May he joined the helicoper that flew Pauner and Oiarzabal to KTM.


expid: LHOT11103
peakid: LHOT
year: 2011
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Kristoffer Erickson
sponsor: Lhotse Ski Expedition
bcdate: 2011-04-20
smtdate: 2011-05-24
termdate: 2011-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to Laidlaw pulmonary edema
campsites: BC(20/04,5350m),C1(23/04,6000m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(23/05,7000m),C4(24/05,7700m),xxx(24/05,7700m)
accidents: Laidlow pulmonary edema
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  High point at 7700m at C4.

  The two-man team pitched their C4 at 7700m on 24 May. A couple of hours before they were to push off for the summit, Laidlaw developed pulmonary edema; so instead of going for the summit, at midnight of the 24/25 they started down. They rested in C2, then continued down to BC, where they arrived at 9:00 am on the 25th. They left BC on the 27th, and on the 29th Laidlaw recovered.

  Their plan had been to ski down from the summit to the bottom of the West Face. During their acclimatization period, on 16 May they did ski from the Yellow Band at about 7400m to C2 at 6400m in the Western Cwm.


expid: LHOT11104
peakid: LHOT
year: 2011
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Ryan Waters
sponsor: Lhotse Spring 2011
countries: France
bcdate: 2011-04-10
smtdate: 2011-05-19
smttime: 1440
termdate: 2011-05-23
campsites: BC(10/04,5350m),C2(22/04,6400m),C3(01/05,7350m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Himalayan Trailblazer
routememo:
  C3 on West Face
  C4 on West Face.

  The two members, Ryan Waters and Ms. Sophie Denis, arrived at Lhotse separately. Waters got there first: he arrived in Kathmandu in late March to lead a trekking group to Everest BC and stayed in Khumbu after his clients left. Denis first climbed Cho Oyu with a Field Touring expedition led by Ben Kane. She acclimatized rapidly, summited Cho Oyu on 5 May, returned to Kathmandu by road on the 8th, and flew to Lukla on the 10th. She met Waters at BC on 12 May in time for their joint summit push. 

  Waters had been climbing Lhotse by the time Denis arrived and had pitched the usual series of higher camps. He and Lhakpa Dorje had carried loads all the way to C3, then descended to BC on the 12th to meet Sophie there. The three of them went up to C2 on the 16th to C3 on the 17th and made C4 on the 18th.

  On 19th May the three climbers left C4 at 4:00 am and got to the summit that afternoon; Lhakpa Dorje at 2:40, Denis at 2:50 and Waters at 3:50 pm. They descended to C3 in the dark at 9:00 pm. The next day the two members stopped in C2 while Lhakpa Dorje continued down to BC. The members joined him on the 21st.

  All of them used oxygen from C4 to the top to C3.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Dorje, 2/6/71, Muse, Chaurikharka-4, Solu, no 8000ers


expid: LHOT11105
peakid: LHOT
year: 2011
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: SummitClimb Lhotse Expedition 2011
countries: Australia, UK
bcdate: 2011-04-08
smtdate: 2011-05-21
smttime: 0530
termdate: 2011-05-23
campsites: BC(08/04,5350m),C1(17/04,6050m),C2(23/04,6330m),C3(28/04,7100m),C4(20/05,7800m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on West Face
  C4 below couloir.

  The expedition's summit party consisted of Holt, Vickers, Ang Dorje and Sange, who left their C4 at 11:00 am on 20 May and summited on the 21st: Holt and Sange at 5:30 am and Vickers with Ang Dorje at 7:30 am. All descended to C2: Holt and Sange arrived there at 10:00 am and waited there for the other two to join them since this was Ang Dorje's first 8000-meter summit. Their arrival times at C2 ranged between 5:30 and 8:00 pm because it was necessary to clear the camps as they went down.

  All were in BC on the 22nd.

  Holt used oxygen in C3 to the top to C2, but Vickers used none at all. Their Sherpas used it from above 7500m to the summit to C4.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Dorje Sherpa, 8/9/1985 (2042/5/23), Patle-5, Okhaldhunga, no 8000ers
    Sange Sherpa, 21/5/71 (7/2/2028), Dinding, Makalu-Barun, Lhotse X1


expid: LHOT11106
peakid: LHOT
year: 2011
route1: W Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Roberto Rodrigo
sponsor: Spaniards on Lhotse
approach: Lukla->Namche->Gokyo->Kongma La->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2011-04-26
smtdate: 2011-05-21
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2011-05-25
campsites: BC(26/04,5350m),C1(03/05,6100m),C2(04/05,6400m),C3(06/05,7100m),C4(19/05,8300m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Rodrigo Espiga and Garcia Arribas started their summit push at 2:20 am and Salazar Gavia at 2:30 am on 21 May from C4. Salazar Gavia turned around from 8300m it was already 2 pm. Salazar Gavia thought it was late for him to continue for summit as he was tired and getting very cold. He got to C4 around 4 pm. The Spanish couple continued their climb. Arribas got to the top at 4 pm and Espiga at 4:30 pm. Arribas stayed on summit for 45 minutes and Espiga for 15 minutes. While descending Espiga got snowblinded at 8300m.

  Salazar Gavia said that Espiga was brought down to C2 on 22 May with the help of Willi Benegas and his three Sherpas. Benegas was around C4 and Russell Brice informed him about the Spanish couple in trouble. Rodrigo Espiga and Garcia Arribas had treatment at C2 of the Brice expedition attended by his expedition doctor (Monica Piris) and Billi Bierling. Rodrigo Espiga was evacuated by helicopter on 23 May from C2 and then to Kathmandu on 24. 


  Official Statement 25 May 2011

  The expedition teams of 'Endesa-Desafio Edurne Pasaban 14+1', IMG, Himex, Patagonian Brothers and all of the people who took part in the above mentioned operation, would like to publicly make the following points with respect to the rescue of the Spanish alpinists Manuel "Lolo" Gonzalez, Roberto Rodrigo and Isabel Garcia which took place on the 22nd of May on Lhotse.

  On the 21st of May, a group of Spanish alpinists were descending from the summit of Lhotse. Their progress was being followed by Himex doctor Monica Piris, members of Edurne Pasaban's team and Carlos Martinez Garcia and Darío Rodriguez (the doctor and the journalist of the Spanish Lhotse team). There was concern that the team were taking too long to return to Camp 4 and radio contact with the team was maintained throughout the night by Monica. At 2 am it was obvious that 3 climbers had not returned to camp to Camp 4 and at 05:27 on the 22nd of May, Russell Brice contacted his Sirdar (Phurba Tashi) at Camp 2 asking him to look at the couloir to see if any people were visible on the route. Between 05:30 and 05:40 Russell Brice contacted teams at base camp and Camp 2 to try and ascertain a) who needed to be rescued and b) the exact location of all of the climbers who had been on the route the previous day. At 08:00, the emergency situation on Lhotse was confirmed when it became known that an alpinist (Manuel Gonzalez) had disappeared, and several others were in Camp 4 (7800m) in poor physical condition, with some of them in very grave danger. On being alerted to the situation, Edurne Pasaban, leader of the expedition 'Endesa-Desafio Edurne Pasaban 14+1' also asked for assistance from the leaders of Himex (Russell Brice), IMG (Ang Jangbu), and Patagonian Brothers (Willy Benegas) to initiate a rescue operation obtaining a positive response from all of them. From that time, the rescue operation was coordinated from the Patagonian Brothers base camp and run by Edurne Pasaban and Willy Benegas with the collaboration and advice of the doctors from the above mentioned teams.

  During the morning of the 22nd May, Damian Benegas, lead guide of Patagonian Brothers was descending from the summit of Mount Everest and was between Camp 4 and 3 with another guide, four clients and seven Sherpas, when he was informed of the emergency situation on Lhotse. On looking towards Lhotse Camp 4 he sighted the body of Manuel Gonzalez, approximately 100m above the camp on a rock buttress known as the The Turtle. He immediately left his Sherpas in charge of his clients and, in the company of his other guide, Matias (Matoco) Erroz headed towards Lhotse Camp 4 to offer assistance.

  When Damian and Matoco arrived at Camp 4, all the other alpinists who had summited or tried to summit Lhotse on the previous day had abandoned their tents and were heading down towards the safety of lower camps. The only people remaining at Camp 4 were Roberto Rodrigo and Isabel Garcia whose severely depleted physical condition made their descent without assistance impossible. The Iranian alpinist, Mahdi Amidi, was also at Camp 4 where he had stayed to try and help them.

  Immediately, the two guides from Patagonian Brothers proceeded to administer emergency medical treatment to the two alpinist despite the fact that one of them Isabel Garcia actively refused said treatment which included the use of bottled oxygen already stored at Camp 4 and belonging to Himex. In the meantime, a Sherpa of Patagonian Brothers expeditions, Phurba Gaelgin, arrived at Camp 4 to help with the rescue. After 2 hours of emergency medical treatment, the two casualties were stable enough to initiate descent with the help of Phurba Gaelgin and Mahdi Amidi.

  Damian Benegas and Matoco then headed towards the location of Manuel Gonzalez and found him to be alive. He had survived a night out at 7900m. When they arrived he was conscious but unable to move from the waist down. Due to his precarious position far from the fixed rope and in grave danger of a fatal fall, it took more than 2 hours of complex and dangerous rescue techniques to get Manuel Gonzalez to Camp 4. Meanwhile, Phurba Tashi and Ngima Chering, 2 Himex Sherpas, had begun their ascent from Camp 2 to the scene of the accident with a stretcher. They arrived at Camp 4 late in the afternoon and immediately initiated descent with the casualty back down towards Camp 2 (6400m).

  Throughout the afternoon and well into the night, the alpinists who were descending on their own from Lhotse Camp 4 arrived at Camp 2 where there was a large number of people and infrastructure from Endesa, Himex, IMG and Patagonian Brothers at their disposal in order to assist them to camp and to treat the various medical conditions from which they were suffering: mainly frostbite, edemas and severe dehydration. Himex converted their Camp 2 into field hospital where staff from PBE (Erin Lalley and Mara Larson) and Himex (David McKinley and Brian Warren) and expedition members Billi Bierling and Jorge Salazar worked throughout the night administering first aid to all of the descending climbers. At the rescue headquarters in PBE base camp all those involved also worked throughout the night offering medical and logistical advice and support to those at Camp 2.

  Thanks to the rescue carried out by Damian Benegas, Matoco, Phurba Tashi and Ngima Chering, and with the help of least another 20 people in the final few hundred metres, Manuel Gonzalez arrived at Camp 2 at half past midnight. The following day Manuel Gonzalez and Roberto Rodrigo Espiga were evacuated by helicopter from Camp 2. The remainder of the alpinists arrived at base camp throughout day although given their poor physical condition almost all of them also required assistance and help from other expeditions to make it to their own camps. Almost all of them were evacuated from base camp by helicopter over subsequent days.

  This rescue operation mobilised more than 50 people, many of whom directly risked their own lives in addition to the huge amount of human effort and logistical problems that this situation has generated for all the expeditions and groups involved. In addition, these alpinists have left almost all of their equipment and tents at camps three and four either obliging others to bring it down or leaving it to become rubbish on the mountainside.

  Lastly, we would like to condemn all erroneous information about this rescue that was made public by people who were NOT present, before the families of those implicated had been informed personally.


  Declarations from the leaders of the expeditions involved:

  Russell Brice (Himex):

  "I am deeply disappointed that a group of alpinists with so much experience and knowledge of 8000m peaks should find themselves involved in situations like this on Lhotse where there had been a deep lack of professional conduct and alpine etiquette."

  Willy Benegas (Patagonian Brothers):

  "As climbers, we take risks, but each indivisual has to take responsibility for himself and not put others at risk. In this case, the decisions taken by this group, of so-called professionals, put hundreds of people in grave danger of losing their lives. The ultimate responsibility of every mountaineer is not to put others at risk."

  Edurne Pasaban (Endesa-Desafío Edurne Pasaban 14+1):

  "A year later history repeats itself, with the exception of the fact that on this occasion the prompt action of the often-time criticised commercial expeditions has avoided another tragedy. Let's hope that everyone will learn from these events such that it does not happen again."

accidents:
  Rodrigo Espiga got severe frostbite in all his fingers, toes and face and he was snowblind; Garcia Arribas also got frostbite in her six fingers


expid: MAKA11101
peakid: MAKA
year: 2011
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Oxana Morneva
sponsor: One Russian to Makalu
approach: Dharan->Dhankuta->Hile
bcdate: 2011-04-13
smtdate: 2011-05-17
termdate: 2011-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 8400m due to lack of fixed rope
campsites: BC(13/04,5600m),ABC(15/04,5900m),C1(18/04,6600m),C2(25/04,7000m),C3(16/05,7400m),xxx(17/05,8400m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Team left C3 at 10 pm on 16 May for their summit attempt. It was very windy and cold. They followed the fixed rope, which was old rope from previous years in places. At about 8200m the fixed rope stopped completely. It was very steep but they carried on to 8400m. When they got there it was very windy and Morneva decided that she wanted to turn back as she felt unsafe carrying on without a rope to the summit. They turned back at around 10 am and descended to C3, where they arrived at 4 pm. They descended to BC the following day.

  Oxygen:
    From C2 to high point to C3 by Morneva.
    From C3 to 8000m by Da Chhemba (his oxygen bottle was broken as a pin was
      missing).

  Sherpa:
    Da Chhemba/Dachamba, Gudel-5, Solu, 2/3/68, Everest 22/5/03, 20/05/04, 16/05/07, 
      Cho Oyu 16/9/03, 21/05/05
      (he says he also climbed Cho Oyu on 24/09/2009 with a Norwegian group and
       with a Japanese group in autumn 2002)


expid: MAKA11102
peakid: MAKA
year: 2011
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Robert Anderson
sponsor: Jagged Globe Makalu Expedition 2011
countries: Australia, S Africa, USA
bcdate: 2011-04-14
smtdate: 2011-05-17
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2011-05-13
accidents: Anson heart problem and others respiratory infections
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
campsites:
  Hillary-BC(14/04,4700m),BC(18/04,5700m),C1(25/04,6400m),C2(01/05,6600m),C3(15/05,7450m),C4(16/05,7500m),Smt(17/05)

routememo:
  The expedition enjoyed good weather all the time they were on the mountain and "great weather for the summit" on their summit day.

  The summit party consisted of four members, Anderson, Griffiths, Nevile and Pennington and five Sherpas, Dawa Wangchuk, Funuru, Lhakpa Dorje, Lhakpa Ongyal and Ngima. They set out for the top on 16 May at 9:30 pm. At 7:00 am on the 17th, Griffiths turned back at 8170m because he was very tired, and Lhakpa Dorje went down with him to C3.

  All the others in the party continued to the summit and arrived there at 11:00 am on 17 May. They descended to C4 at 4:00 pm and were down in BC the next day.

  Other non-summiting members:

  Anson climbed to 7000m on about 3 May; there his heart was beating too rapidly, and he returned to BC the same day.

  Campbell got to 7300m on 4 May, then a respiratory infection sent him to BC the same day.

  Rutland went to 7200m on 15 May, then he too succumbed to a respiratory infection.

  All the members in the summit party, and also Campbell and Rutland, used oxygen from C2 to their high points to and in C3. The Sherpas used it from C4 to their high points to C4.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Wangchuk/Dawa Ongchu, 17/12/72, Mathilow, Walung, Makalu-9, 
      Everest X5, Kangch X4, Dhaulagiri X1, Annapurna X1
    Nima/Ngima, 14/2/77 (3/11/2033), Makalu-5, Everest X1, Makalu X1
    Phu Nuru/Funuru, 25/1/82 (12/10/2038), Jubing-10, Solu, no 8000ers
    Lhakpa Dorje, 22/10/66 (6/7/2023), Waku-9, Solu
    Lhakpa Ongyal/Wangel, 19/8/66, Nurbugaon, Makalu-9, Everest X1, Makalu X2,
      Manaslu X1


expid: MAKA11103
peakid: MAKA
year: 2011
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dave Morton
sponsor: Eddie Bauer First Ascent Expedition
bcdate: 2011-04-16
smtdate: 2011-05-21
termdate: 2011-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to route difficulty and their commitments regarding Everest
othersmts: Attempted Everest (EVER-111-11)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
campsites:
  BC(16/04,5700m),C1A(20/04,6200m),C1B(25/04,6400m),C2(20/05,6600m),C3(09/05,7400m),C4(20/05,7500m),xxx(21/05,8300m)

routememo:
  Morton and Arnot left C4 for Makalu's summit on 20 May at 11:30 pm. At 1:30 am of the 21st, Arnot turned around: the route was too difficult. She turned to C4 at about 2 am.

  Morton carried on up to 8300m at 3:30 pm, but now it was too late to go to the top. He had lost about two hours by dropping back to about 8000m, he was going to return to C4 without going any further because he did not have an ice axe with him at the time, but "upon further reflection, decided to keep going and went back up," Morton said in an email. But by then it was too late for the summit.

  They now abandoned their attempt to scale Makalu. "We decided before we went on our summit push that we would give it one shot and then head to Everest. We were trying to balance the professional obligations of what our sponsor wanted with video footage on Everest and our effort to summit Makalu," Morton explained.

  They were back in BC on the 22nd and on the 24th flew by helicopter from there to Everest BC for their climb of Everest.


expid: MAKA11104
peakid: MAKA
year: 2011
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Fabrizio Zangrilli
sponsor: Kinga & Fabrizio Makalu Expedition
countries: Poland
approach: Lukla->Island Peak->Helicopter to BC
bcdate: 2011-04-27
smtdate: 2011-05-27
termdate: 2011-05-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to fatigue and too much snow
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(27/04,5600m),C2(21/05,6400m),C3(08/05,7300m),C4(26/05,7550m),xxx(27/05,7900m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Team left C4 at midnight on 26-27 May. The weather was clear and still about -20 degrees. Nobody else was left on the mountain, so they were on their own. When they reached the seracs at 7900m, Zangrilli was too tired to keep on breaking the trail, so they decided to turn around at about 3:30 am. They descended all the way to ABC, where Baranowski arrived at 6 pm and Zangrilli at 8 pm (he was carrying the loads). The next two days they rested at BC and on 30 May they were picked up by helicopter directly from BC to return to Kathmandu.

  As far as Joelle Brupbacher is concerned, Zangrilli said that she died in the night of 22nd May after she had summited with her Sherpa Pasang. Zangrilli and Baranowska were at BC when they heard that Brupbacher was in trouble. Jorge E. went to Zangrilli's tent at midnight and Jorge, Steve House and Marko Prezelj went back up to take oxygen at about 1 am. At around 6 am, they were informed that Brupbacher had died; they were above C2 at about 6900m and turned back to BC after that.

  On his summit push on 27 May, Zangrilli collapsed Brupbacher's tent at C3 to bury her.

  Zangrilli said Brupbacher had not been well during the whole expedition (she was coughing a lot).


expid: MANA11103
peakid: MANA
year: 2011
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Hirofumi Konishi
sponsor: Team Honda Larkya Expedition 2011 to Manaslu
bcdate: 2011-04-24
smtdate: 2011-05-08
termdate: 2011-05-17
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due strong winds
campsites: BC(24/04,4800m),C2(26/04,6300m),C3(27/04,6800m),xxx(08/05,7400m)
accidents: Nakajima's incipient cerebral edema
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Team Honda Larkya Expedition 2011 - 28 March 7 & 16 May 2011

  Konishi arrived in Nepal on 27 March, but the other two members had already come to Kathmandu and gone to trek into the Larkya area in Manaslu's region. Konishi flew to Lukla on 30 March to trek in Khumbu, returned to Kathmandu on 16 Arpil and took a helicopter to Samagaon, below Manaslu BC, on the 18th and from there went to climb the mountain.

  Konishi went up to BC at 4800m on 22 April and six days later to C1 at 5800m. He climbed to C2 at 6400m on 29 April as part of his acclimatization program, then descended to BC the next day. He now was "not in good condition" because of an old back problem. His attempt on Manaslu was over. He left BC on 9 May, returned to Kathmandu on the 14th and planned to leave Nepal on 18 May.

  The other two members, Nakajima and Okuda, remained on the mountain. They reported their C2, which they occupied on 26 April, was at 6300m, and they put C3 at 6800m on the 27th during their acclimatization.

  They returned to C3 on 7 May for their summit push and left it at midnight of 7/8 May for the top. They reached 7400m at 6 am on the 8th, but there was a strong wind and they retreated to BC, where they arrived at 6:30 pm.

  The two climbers left BC on 13 May for another summit try. They went up to C1 on the 13th and to C3 on the 14th. At 5:00 am on the 15th they set out from C3. At 6:30 am they reached 7100m, but then decided to give up. All the fixed ropes were buried under the snow, and few other people remained on the mountain. So they were back in BC at 1:00 pm on 15 May, and their climb was finished.

  Nakajima had an incipient case of cerebral edema with headache and vomiting, but "it was not much of a problem," he said.


expid: MANA11104
peakid: MANA
year: 2011
route1: NE Face
nation: India
leaders: Ajay Kothiyal
sponsor: Indian Army Mount Manaslu Expedition
bcdate: 2011-04-14
smtdate: 2011-05-09
smttime: 0540
termdate: 2011-05-12
campsites: BC(14/04,4890m),C1(24/04),C2(28/04),C3(07/05,7480m),Smt(09-10/05)
accidents: Ranjeet Singh's cerebral edema
agency: Rimo Expeditions
routememo:
  The large expedition went to the summit in two groups. The first group, Dutt, Jalal, Malik, Mahabir Singh, Tenpa and Thapa, were accompanied by Chhebi Bhote, Karma Gyalzen and Lhakpa Tendu. They left C3 just after midnight, at 0:15 am on 9 May and all were on the summit at 5:40 am. In their descent, Chhebi and Karma Gyalzen stopped in C3 (Karma Gyalzen to wait for the next party), while the rest went all the way down to BC, where they arrived at 4:30 pm.

  The second group consisted of Angchok, Giacho, Joshi, Heera Singh, Kaman Singh, Tej Pal Singh and Chandra Bahadur Thapa, plus Karma Gyalzen (from C3), Kushang Dorje and Phurba Dorje. This group left C3 at 11:45 pm on the 9th and gained the summit at 4:44 am on 10 May. All descended to BC that day; they arrived there at 4:30 pm.

  All members and Sherpas except Tenpa used oxygen above C3 to the summit to C3; Tenpa used none at all.

  Non-summiting members:

  Ahuja, the expedition doctor remained in BC throughout the climb.

  Kothiyal expedition leader, went as high as C2 but spent most of the climbing period in BC.

  Ranjeet Singh reached C3 on 7 May, but then developed cerebral edema and descended to BC.

  Chand and Hoshiyar Singh were BC support team and did not go above BC.

  All members and Sherpas except Tenpa used oxygen above C3 to the summit to C3. Tenpa used none at all.

  Sherpas:
    Chhepi/Chebi Bhote, 30/9/74, Hatiya-3, Makalu, Everest X2, Manaslu X1, Makalu X1
    Karma Gyalzen/Gyalje Sherpa, 4/9/83, Makalu-9, Everest X2, Manaslu X1
    Kusang Dorje/Dorchi Sherpa, 18/7/57, Makalu-9, Manaslu X2
    Lhakap Thendu Sherpa, 18/4/87, Makalu-9
    Phurba Bhote, 7/5/76, Hatiya-1, Makalu, Manaslu fore-summit


expid: NUPT11101
peakid: NUPT
year: 2011
route1: N Face
nation: USA
leaders: Michael Horst
sponsor: Three American Guides on Lhotse
approach: Everest, Lhotse
bcdate: 2011-05-20
smtdate: 2011-05-29
termdate: 2011-05-31
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to bad conditions, ice too difficult
campsites: BC(20/05,5350m),C2(24/05,6400m),C3(27/05,6800m),xxx(29/05,7300m)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  C2 at Everest C2
  C3 at top of rock band
  High point above arete.

  After having climbed Everest and Lhotse, Madison and Horst hooked up with Max Bunce from IMG to climb Nuptse. The team left Everest BC on 24 May and on 25 May they did a carry to their high camp on Nuptse at 6800m (on top of a rock band below arete), which took them about nine hours return.

  On 26 May they rested at Everest C2 and on 27 May they left C2 at 3 am and reached their high camp at 7:30 am. They set up camp, and Horst and Bunce started climbing up the arete at 9 am and got to about 7100m. They were fixing V-threads. They got back to camp at about 6 pm. They stayed the night at their camp and rested on 28 May.

  On 29 May the team left high camp at 3:30 am. It was snowing and had been since the previous evening. The snow had slightly settled on the arete and the climb was harder than expected. It was about 50 degrees and blue bulletproof ice. They got to the top of the arete at about 10:30 am and climbed through the rock band and reached better terrain. Horst was looking for ice he could use for a belay but could not find loose rock and snow, so he decided that it was getting too dangerous and they turned back at noon.

  They descended to their camp, mainly abseiling. However, they could not find their V-threads due to the new snow and had to fix new anchors to abseil. They reached high camp at 6 pm. While they were in their camp there was an avalanche from above the arete, which luckily did not hit them.

  They slept for about two hours and left high camp at 11:22 pm to go back to Everest C2, where they arrived at 3:30 am. On 30 May they descended to BC. On 31 May, they left BC and reached Kathmandu on 2 June.


expid: PUTH11101
peakid: PUTH
year: 2011
route1: NE Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Rudi Mayr
sponsor: Austrian Putha Hiunchuli
bcdate: 2011-05-07
smtdate: 2011-05-17
termdate: 2011-05-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to strong wind
campsites: BC(07/05,4800m),C1(11/06,5400m),C2(12/05,6200m),C3(17/05,6600m),xxx(17/05)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  The Austrians expected to leave C3 at 2 am on 18 May for the summit. But a strong wind was blowing. They waited until 5:00 am; when the wind did not abate, they abandoned the climb. Instead of moving up, they descended all the way to BC that day and left BC in a helicopter for Kathmandu the next day.

  There were two Nepalis with them in their summit party, Norbu and Pemba Tamang, brothers. When the Austrians abandoned their climb, the brothers went down to BC with them; then the Austrians left on the 19th, the brothers climbed up to C3 of the Dutch team led by Alex Bijlsma, arrived at their C3 on the 20th, and joined them in their successful summit bid on 21 May.

  Sherpas:
    Norbu Tamang, 7/2/78, Taksindu-3, Solu, no 8000ers
    Pemba Tamang, 31/5/73, Taksindu-3, Solu, Manaslu X1 (fore-smt)


expid: PUTH11102
peakid: PUTH
year: 2011
route1: NE Face
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Alex Bijlsma
sponsor: Dutch Putha Hiunchuli
ascent1: 41st
bcdate: 2011-05-09
smtdate: 2011-05-21
smttime: 1045
termdate: 2011-05-24
campsites: BC(09/05,4800m),C1(11/05,5400m),C2(15/05,6200m),C3(20/05,6600m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  The entire team consisted of two members, Alex Bijlsma and his wife Antonia Nahuys, plus Dawa Sherpa and two Tamang brothers, Norbu and Pemba, who had gone to the mountain with two Austrians led by Rudi Mayr. Norbu and Pemba climbed with the Austrians to their high point, C3, and when they descended to BC, they went down with them. The Austrians left on the 19th, Norbu and Pemba climbed up to the Dutch C3 on the 20th and summited with them the next day.

  The five climbers left C3 for the summit on 21 May at 3:45 am and gained the top together at 10:45 am in clear but windy weather. They returned to C3 at about 2:00 pm and were back in BC on the 22nd.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa (Salami Dawa) Sherpa, 29/12/72, Najing, Garma-3, Solu, no 8000ers
    Norbu Tamang, 7/2/78 (25/10/2034), Taksindu-3, Solu, no 8000ers
    Pemba Tamang, 31/5/73, Taksindu-3, Solu, Manaslu 20/5/06 (fore-smt)
      (Tamangs are brothers)


expid: PUTH11103
peakid: PUTH
year: 2011
route1: NE Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Monica Brodmann
sponsor: Sisters Expedition to Putha Hiunchuli
countries: Germany
bcdate: 2011-04-24
smtdate: 2011-05-09
termdate: 2011-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 6833m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(24/04,3767m),ABC(29/04,4886m),C1(02/05,5466m),C2(05/05,6125m),C3(08/05,6360m),xxx(09/05,6833m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at Kakot village
  ABC at normal BC site (2 nights from Kakot)
  C1  at foot of NE Face
  C2  on NE Face
  C3  on NE Face.

  Of the three women members, only Monika was actually a dedicated climber. Niquille had a severe accident in 1994 and is confined to a wheelchair. Hansen is her physiotherapist, so she spent most of her time with Niquille in very low BC in Kakot village, the least village in the Kakot valley and two days trek from the normal BC (this team's ABC); this was as far as their porters  said they could carry Niquille. Hansen did climb up to C1 on 6 May, but never slept there.

  That left Brodmann Maeder and their three Sherpas to do nearly all of the climbing. But they had just pitched C2 at 6125m when one Sherpa, Ms Lhakpa Diki, developed cerebral edema. The two climbing members and the two other Sherpas, Ms. Pasang Chhutin and Ms Pasang Lhamu took her down to ABC that evening. She stayed there a while, then returned to C1 on the 10th.

  Brodmann Maeder, Pasang Chhutin and Pasang Lhamu returned to C1 on the 6th to C2 on the 7th, and pitched C3 at 6360m on the 8th.

  From C3 the three women set out for the top at 3:30 am on 9 May. At 12:30 pm they reached 6833m, then had to retreat: the snow here was quite deep, and Pasang Chhutin had no more strength in her legs. They descended to C1, where they arrived at 5:00 pm. Their climb was finished. On the 10th they trekked to their BC at Kakot and rejoined the other two members.

  Sherpanis:
    Ms Lhakpa Diki Sherpa, 1987, Kharikhola, Solu, no 8000ers
    Ms Pasang Chhutin Sherpa, 1984, Monjo, Chaurikharka, Solu
    Ms Pasang Lhamu Sherpa, 10/6/84, Gumila, Chaurikharka, Solu Everest 17/5/07


expid: AMAD10335
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Mark Allen
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Ama Dablam Expedition 2010
countries: Australia, Ireland, UK
bcdate: 2010-10-25
smtdate: 2010-11-01
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2010-11-10
campsites: BC(25/10,4600m),C1(02/11,5800m),C2(07/11,6000m),Smt(08/11)
agency: Beyul Adventure
routememo:
  Allen (leader), Bunce, Burkhalter, Dillon, Judge, Tan, Ang Pasang and Panuru left C2 at 3 pm for the summit. Judge and Tan turned back at the C3 site (6400m) and descended with Ang Pasang. Dillon accidently dropped his helmet above C3 and was force to descend with Allen and Panuru. Bunce and Burkhalter summited at 13:00 and remained on top for 25 minutes.

  Ursino was sick and did not climb above C1.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Pasang
    Panuru


expid: MANA10324
peakid: MANA
year: 2010
route1: NE Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Chhang Dawa Sherpa
smtdate: 2010-10-01
smttime: 1230
campsites: Smt(01/10)
agency: Asian Trekking (Wiedlich pmt)
routememo:
  Chhang Dawa Sherpa summited with Carlos Soria on 1 October. He climbed independently of other teams.


expid: AMAD10112
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Philippe Gatta, Jean-Marc Wojcik
approach: Lukla->Namche->Tengboche->BC
bcdate: 2010-04-26
smtdate: 2010-05-03
smttime: 1515
termdate: 2010-05-05
campsites: BC(26/04,4600m),C1(27/04,5750m),C2(01/05,6000m),Smt(03/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides permit?
routememo:
  Philippe Gatta - 16 Sept 2011 (by email)

  I posted a full report with route information, photos and videos here:

    http://www.philippegatta.fr/amadablam2.htm


expid: AMAD10404
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Christine Lycett Green, Andrew Todd
bcdate: 2010-12-12
smtdate: 2010-12-15
termdate: 2010-12-16
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to exhaustion and coldness
campsites: BC(12/12,4950m),C1(13/12,5750m),C2(14/12,6000m),xxx(15/12,6600m)
agency: Top Himalaya Guides
routememo:
  Charlotte Lycett Green - 7 Sep 2011 (by email)

  BC arrival date: 12.12.10
  C1 arrival date: 13.12.10
  C2 arrival date: 14.12.10
  High point date: 15.12.10 (altitude 6600m approx)
  BC departure date: 16.12.10

  Reason for stopping summit push: 

  Although well acclimatised from trekking to Kalapattar, Everest Base Camp and over Kongma La Pass, I found it difficult to fuel sufficiently for the effort required at this altitude. Tshering Pande Bhote made the decision for us to attempt to summit from C2, due to possible impending bad weather and to minimise our time on the mountain, which was the most sensible option.
   
  We were involved with the rescue of a Swiss National, who had HACE and HAPE, while we were having a rest day a few days previously; this made me particularly cautious and undoubtedly contributed to my decision to turn back. 

  Route details:

  Generally in good condition, though not such good conditions as expected above C3. Temperatures in Pangboche were -16 C, which gives an idea of how cold it was at C1 and C2. We wore down suits from C2.

  I believe ours was the first winter ascent of the season, and consequently there was nobody else on the mountain apart from us. BC was deserted. This created a truly magical experience and we were unhindered by queues, etc. that are a feature of the main season. There is incredible exposure on the Yellow Tower! Tshering, Lama Babu and Jabu were absolutely excellent throughout; their professionalism and ability was outstanding.

  Hired:
    Tshering Pande Bhote (to high point)
    Lama Babu (to high point)
    Jabu (to C2)


expid: AMAD10336
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Gerhard Pilz
approach: Lukla->Thami>Renjo La->Cho La->Lobuche->Kalapattar->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2010-11-17
smtdate: 2010-11-21
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2010-11-23
campsites: BC(17/11,4609m),C1(19/11,5846m),C3(20/11,6360m),Smt(21/11)
agency: Sherpa & Swiss Adventures
routememo:
  Detail program for climbing Ama Dablam:

  Wednesday, 17.11.:
    Trekked Dingboch to Ama Dablam BC, arrived 12.30 Uhr/4609Hm
  Thursday, 18.11.:
    Rest day AMA DABLAM BC.
  Friday, 19.11.:
    Puja ceremony
    Climb to Camp 1 (Pilz, Kern, Thukten)
      Start 09:45 Uhr Ama Dablam BC./4609Hm, arrive 14:30 Uhr Camp 1/5846Hm
  Saturday, 20.11.:
    Climb to Camp 3 (Pilz, Kern, Thukten)
      Start 09:00 Uhr Camp 1/5846Hm, arrive 12:40 Uhr Camp 2/6090Hm,
        Arrive 16:40 Uhr Camp 3/6360Hm
  Sunday, 21.11.:
    Climb Summit Ama Dablam (Pilz, Kern, Thukten)
      Start 07:35 Uhr Camp 3/6360Hm, arrive 12:30 Uhr Summit Ama Dablam/6848Hm
      Summit: Gerhard PILZ, Dr. Michael KERN, THUKTEN DORJI SHERPA
      Rest on Summit 40 Minutes
    Dr. Michael Kern way down to base camp:
      Start Summit 13:10 Uhr/6848Hm, arrive 15:00 Uhr Camp 3/6360Hm, 
        arrive 16:00 Uhr Camp 2/6090Hm, arrive 17:00 Uhr Camp 1/5846Hm, 
        arrive BC. 19:30 Uhr
    Gerhard Pilz, Thukten Dorji Sherpa way down to C2:
      Start Summit 13:10 Uhr 6848Hm, arrive 15:45 Uhr Camp 3/6360Hm, 
        arrive 17:25 Uhr Camp 2/6090Hm
  Monday, 22.11.:
    Camp 2 - Ama Dablam BC (Pilz, Thukten)
      Start 07:15 Uhr Camp 2/6090Hm, arrive 09:00 Uhr Camp 1/5846Hm - Rest
      Start 10:00 Uhr Camp 1/5846Hm, arrive 12:00 Uhr BC.
  Tuesday, 23.11.:
    Ama Dablam BC->Pangboche 3985m->Deboche


expid: GAUR10301
peakid: GAUR
year: 2010
route1: SE Ridge (to 5500m)
route2: SE Face-SE Ridge (to 6050m)
nation: Poland
leaders: Przemyslaw Wojcik
sponsor: Polish Mountaineering Association
bcdate: 2010-11-06
smtdate: 2010-11-18
termdate: 2010-11-22
termnote: Abandoned at 6050m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(06/11,4550m),ABC(5000m),Biv(5350m),xxx(09/11,5500m);Biv(16/11,5900m),xxx(18/11,6050m)
routememo:
  Our main gaol it was South Face of Gaurishankar, but we had some logistics problems. Then we decided to try the Japanese route (SE Ridge) in alpine style.

  The first attempt was on a lateral ridge to the beginning of the SE Ridge at 6300m, where there was very poor and crushed rock (7-9.11.2010, the highest point ca. 5500m, dif. III UIAA).

  The second attampt was on the Japanese route (SE Face to beginning of SE Ridge at 6300m) (16-18.11.2010, the highest point ca. 6050m, dif. IV UIAA, snow 50-60 (max 70) degrees).


expid: GANC10101
peakid: GANC
year: 2010
route1: N Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Angelo Giovanetti
sponsor: Dolomite (Italian Outdoor Company)
bcdate: 2010-05-08
smtdate: 2010-05-12
termdate: 2010-05-14
termnote: Abandoned above BC due to exhaustion?
campsites: BC(08/05,5070m),ABC(11/05,5500m),xxx(12/05,6000m?)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking?
routememo:
  Hired (not above BC?)
    Phur Tenzi Sherpa
    Kul Bahadur Thapa Magar


  From Dolomite Website (07/16/2010)

  Oscar Piazza, Massimiliano Zortea and Angelo Giovanetti left a sign in history climbing the north wall of Ganchempo, Nepal

  Nature never stops to astonish, and so mountain is always able to reveal new facets. On April/May 2010 three Italian guides opened a new way on the north wall of Ganchempo, Langtang Valley, Himalaya. On their feet Cougar Pro Gtx [boots], at their side Dolomite.

  On April the 24th Oscar Piazza, Massimiliano Zortea and Angelo Giovanetti left Milano. On May the 30th they started their adventure from Syabrubesi (1460m) reaching at first Lama Hotel at 2470m and then Langtang (3430m) on May the 1st and Kyanjin Gompa (3870m) on May the 2nd.

  After some days of naturalization and bad weather, on May the 8th our three mountaineers reached the Ganchempo Base Camp, 5070m, while the following day they faced the first climb of the glacier: it was snowing very fast!

  Adrenalin and passion for mountain help you to go on even in difficulties. Perseverance, enthusiasm, obstinacy, training and professional equipment: this is what is necessary.

  On May the 11th Piazza, Zortea and Giovanetti reached the Advanced Camp (5500m) and after a night on height they climbed and went back down the Ganchempo North Wall with a 15 hours no stop hiking.

  A unique emotion for them and Dolomite too that signed this important goal. On May the 13th the return to the Advanced Camp and the rest to the Base Camp. The tiredness is high...but the satisfaction too!

  Congratulations to Oscar, Angelo and Massimiliano from all Dolomite staff.


expid: AMAD10337
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge (to 6000m)
route2: N Face (to 5600m)
nation: Brazil
leaders: Mauricio Clauzet
bcdate: 2010-10-17
smtdate: 2010-11-04
termdate: 2010-11-06
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to member illnesses and Santos not wanting to continue alone
campsites: BC(17/10,4500m),C1(24/10,5600m),C2(25/10,5800m),xxx(04/11,6000m)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Three members reached C2 on 26 Oct. Clauzet and Wellner returned to BC next day due to illnesses and Santos waited for two days to try for summit with two Spaniards (Pallares and Mompel?). When Spaniards decided not to make the summit attempt, Santos also returned to BC not wanting to continue alone on an apparent difficult and dangerous route.

  In late October, the three Brazilians and the Dane Jacob Klaris-Jensen attempted the N Face (Santos and Klaris to try for the summit with Clauzet and Wellner in support). Santos and Klaris reached 5600m from their 5100m camp, but gave up due loose falling rock and the potential onset of bad weather.


  Mauricio Clauzet (email) - 3 Oct 2011

  Reason for stopping summit push:

  Demotivated with the dirty, rubbish and sanitary conditions of Camp 1 and 2, as well as too many ropes everywhere and also old ropes left behind. Base camp also had rubbish around, even inside the stream where you take water. We don't like to climb in a place like that. Over crowded as well. No conditions to have only 7 tents spots in Camp 2 and more than 15 comercial expeditions with many members to climb.

  When we arrived in Camp 1 and 2, there were no more places to tents, but no people. All commercial expeditions saved places for their commercial members. The tents were there, but the clients haven't even arrived to BC. Second time we had been to Camp 2 it was smelling like a bad public toilet. Hard to get clean snow (with no feces and urine) to make water. I had also digestive system problem because of bad snow in high camps.

  Other comments:

  What people called "the crown", a huge serac hanging out from summit is there just because an uncountable set of old fixed ropes left behind over the years. In an attached picture you can see "the crown" with many old ropes appearing from it. People that had summited told us that there is a set of old ropes tensioned like guitar strings in a crevasse on the summit, holding "the crown."

  I'll never return to Ama Dablam, and maybe never to climb again in Nepal. Money hass been far more important than the mountain itself, the nature and the environment. This mountain is still beautifull from far away. When you look closer, it's ugly and dirty. Very bad.


expid: AMAD10338
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: N Face
nation: Denmark
leaders: Jacob Klaris-Jensen
smtdate: 2010-10-31
termnote: Abandoned at 5600m due to falling rock and oncoming bad weather
campsites: BC,C1(30/10,5100m),xxx(31/10,5600m)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  In late October, three Brazilians and Jacob Klaris-Jensen attempted the N Face (Santos and Klaris to try for the summit with Clauzet and Wellner in support). Santos and Klaris reached 5600m from their 5100m camp, but gave up due loose falling rock and the potential onset of bad weather.


expid: AMAD10339
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Miroslaw Caban
bcdate: 2010-10-21
smtdate: 2010-10-26
termdate: 2010-10-28
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to dangerous seracs above
campsites: BC(21/10/10),C1(23/10,5400m),xxx(26/10,5800m)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Caban - 16 Sept 2011 (by email)

  Very, very nice route, and very much climbers (very bad).

  I like Ama Dablam very much...


expid: AMAD10340
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Denmark
leaders: Christian Als, Lee Zernichow
bcdate: 2010-10-26
smtdate: 2010-11-06
termdate: 2010-11-08
campsites: BC(26/10),C1(27/10),C3(05/11),Smt(06/11)
agency: Tseringma Treks
routememo:
  We didn't use C2 because we found it too small, too crowded and really smelly. So we opted for the indicated schedule. We had mostly good weather and we ended up summiting on the date planned from home. We really enjoyed the mountain, the route fixing was great and we met lots of nice people in base camp. 


expid: AMAD10113
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Carlalberto Cimenti
sponsor: An Italian on Ama Dablam
approach: Pangboche->Island Peak
bcdate: 2010-05-27
smtdate: 2010-06-02
smttime: 1415
termdate: 2010-06-04
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(27/05,4700m),Smt(02/06)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Cimenti left BC at 00:35 am on 2 June. Weather was perfect and sunny. Now a lot of snow, but ice at serac. He used the old fixed ropes. He found it tiring as he was not properly acclimatized. He spent about 20 minutes on summit. On the way down he got lost in fog at about 5000m and he was looking for the way for 2 hours. He arrived at BC at 3:30 am on 3 June. 

  He had a cook and porter with him who stayed at BC.


expid: BARU10102
peakid: BARU
year: 2010
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Chile
leaders: Camilo Rada
countries: Argentina
approach: Lukla->Khare->Tangnag->Mera La->BC->Amphu Laptsa
bcdate: 2010-04-09
smtdate: 2010-04-19
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2010-04-21
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak
campsites: BC(09/04,5447m),C1(14/04,6132m),C1.9(16/04,6450m),C2(17/04,6590m),Smt(19/04)
agency: Mountain Tribes Trekking
routememo:
  Camilo Rada - 12 Sept 2011 (by email)

  We didn't hire any Sherpas above BC, just two porters to reach it. We went very light, with just one small tent, one rope and minimalistic camping and climbing equipment.

  We made a first summit attempt on the 18th, but we were stopped by a huge crevasse that blocked the transit through the ridge. Old fixed ropes went across the crevasse hanging at several meters from the bottom. So we deduced that the crevasse was quite new, because the ropes were set when it didn't exist.

  After rappelling and wasting time and energy trying to climb the crevasse wall, we found a way around it by going down to the west almost up to the rock. We went down to C2 and the following day we started earlier and followed that route. Then we went around a couple of more crevasses, which involved climbing in hard snow up to 70-degrees steep.

  When we finished the ridge and reached the plateau under the summit, clouds covered the mountain, so the final walk to the summit and the way back to camp was done with very bad visibility.

  We arrived back at camp at 9:00 pm after a 15.5 hour summit push.


expid: ANN111103
peakid: ANN1
year: 2011
route1: N Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Abele Blanc
sponsor: Annapurna 2011 Expedition
ascent1: 55th
approach: Beni->Lete->Yak Kharka->Nilgiri BC->Mristi Khola
bcdate: 2011-03-31
smtdate: 2011-04-26
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2011-04-30
campsites: BC(31/04,4177m),ABC(04/04,4950m),C1(08/04,5550m),C2(24/04,6350m),C3(25/04,6950m),Smt(26/04)
achievment: Abele Blanc's 14th 8000er
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Blanc started his summit push from C3 at 00:30 am on 26 April with his two climbing Sherpas. Two other Korean teams also started their summit push from C3. Blanc and his Sherpas reached summit at 1:30 pm. They stayed on summit for 10 minutes and next day 27 April went down to BC. The weather on summit day at the beginning little bit windy which stopped at 9 am. Around 10-10:30 am it was foggy which remained all the way up. On the summit it was little foggy but no wind.

  Sherpas:
    Dowa Sherpa, 25/8/1960 (10/5/2017), Makalu-9
    Dawa Sange, 25/8/1985 (9/5/2042), Makalu-9


expid: ANN111104
peakid: ANN1
year: 2011
route1: N Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Jae-Soo
sponsor: Kolon Sport Annapurna I Expedition 2011
ascent1: 57th
approach: BC by helicopter
bcdate: 2011-03-24
smtdate: 2011-04-26
smttime: 1350
termdate: 2011-04-28
campsites: BC(24/03,4200m),ABC(27/03,5400m),C1(30/03,5800m),C2(11/04,6500m),C3(25/04,7050m),Smt(26/04)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Annapurna I Korea (Kim Jae-Soo) - Spring 2011

  The Korean Kolon Sport Expedition with two members including leader Kim Jae-Soo were on Annapurna I in 2011 Spring. The team started its summit push from C3 at 00:30 am on 26 April with Kim, Son and one of their climbing Sherpas Pemba Dorchi. Other Korean team of two members from Busan also started at the same time for the summit, and the Italian climber Blanc also started his summit push at the same time with his two climbing Sherpas. Kim and the other climbers along with the Sherpas reached the top at 1:50 pm. They stayed on summit for 20 minutes and got back to C3 at 6 pm. They spent the night at C3. Next day 27 April the Kim team and the other climbers went down to BC. The route was covered with knee-deep snow and all the way up cloudy with little snowfall and sometimes there were white-outs. The weather on that day mostly cloudy above C2.

  Fixed rope: 1800m between BC and 7350m.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Dorchi Sherpa, 1/9/1984 (16/5/2041), Makalu-5
    Pemba Sherpa, 28/2/80 (16/11/2036), Makalu-5


expid: CHOY11114
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: Bulgaria
leaders: Boris Petrov
sponsor: Cho Oyu Expedition 2011
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2011-04-17
smtdate: 2011-05-12
termdate: 2011-05-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to sickness
campsites: BC(17/04,5000m),ABC(20/04,5700m),C1(30/04,6400m),C2(12/05,7200m),xxx(12/05,7200m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Petrov and Lhakpa on their summit push on 12 May got to 7200m, but Petrov suffered from throat problem and decided to turn around.


expid: CHOY11107
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Volodymyr Lanko
sponsor: Ukrainian on Cho Oyu
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2011-04-17
smtdate: 2011-05-06
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2011-05-09
campsites: BC(17/04,4900m),IC(19/04,5300m),ABC(20/04,5700m),C1(25/04,6400m),C2(29/04,7100m),Smt(06/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 19 April at 5300m.

  Lanko started his summit push from C2 at 1 am on 6 May. He got to the top at 4 pm and stayed on summit for about 45 minutes. Lanko said that he walked one hour to the left side from shoulder then turned right and walked 300m then again turned right and walked about 500m again, he turned left and walked about 400m, that is where he thought was summit. His altimeter showed 8180m. He descended in dark, strong wind and snowfall. It was 9 pm and he could not find his C2 tent. So he dug a snowhole and spent the night at 7200m in very cold and windy night. -20 degrees on 7 May about 5 am, he got out of hole and saw his C2 tent just 200m below. Lanko went to the tent and slept until noon then went down to ABC where he reached around 7 pm. The weather on summit day was windy and cold. Everest side was totally cloudy and Tibetan side was clear. Lanko was alone on the mountain on that day. He said that it was very difficult to follow the trail due to heavy snow on route. Lanko also said that the did not see any object on the top.

  Fixed rope: 20m above 7600m.


expid: CHOY11106
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Alex Denderuk
sponsor: Cho Oyu Expedition 2011
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2011-04-17
smtdate: 2011-05-09
termdate: 2011-05-11
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to severe cough
campsites: BC(17/04,5000m),ABC(20/04,5700m),C1(05/05,6400m),C2(06/05,6800m),C3(09/05,7200m),xxx(09/05,7200m)
accidents: Denderuk suffered from severe cough
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  Denderuk and his climbing Sherpa Karma were at C3 on 9 May, planning to summit on 11 May. Denderuk suffered from severe cough and Karma told him to go down; also there was strong wind. Then Denderuk went down to ABC.


expid: DHA111105
peakid: DHA1
year: 2011
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Norway
leaders: Einar Osland
sponsor: Norwegian Dhaulagiri Expedition 2011
bcdate: 2011-04-20
smtdate: 2011-05-14
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2011-05-18
campsites: BC(20/04,4620m),C1(27/04,5550m),C2(04/05,6200m),C3(12/05,7000m),C4(13/05,7500m),Smt(14/05)
agency: Tseringma Treks
routememo:
  Oyvin Thon reached the summit ahead of all the members at 12:30 pm. His wife Brit Volden arrived 30 minutes later while Stian Voldmo reached at 1:05 pm. The weather on the summit was excellent, so Oyvin spent around 2 hours in the summit. On their way up, they used around 2000m of running rope. While descending they spent the night at C4 where they arrived at 7 pm. On May 15 they reached C2 and spent the night. They reached the base camp on May 16, where Osland was waiting. 

  Osland had abandoned the climb on May 12, reaching 6200m with the rest of the group. The other two members Bard Lovehaug and Rune Snaprud had also abandoned their climb with Osland, but they returned to Kathmandu on May 12. The members who abandoned the climb had returned to base camp on May 12. "They were scared and did not like the mountain," said Oyvin when asked why they had abandoned.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Tenzing, 31/10/75 (2032/7/14), Beding, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X2, Kangch X1, 
      Manaslu X1, Dhaula X1
    Sange Sherpa, 29/1/80 (2036/10/15), Rolwaling, Gaurishankar-2
    Mingma Chiri, 19/1/92 (2048/10/5), Beding, Gaurishankar-1 
    Kili Pemba, 15/5/80 (2037/2/2), Beding, Gaurishankar-1, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X2,
      Manaslu X2, Dhaulagiri X1
    Chhang Babu, 23/6/82 (2039/3/9), Sankhuwasabha, Makalu-9
    Pemba Chhiri, 24/2/87 (2043/11/12), Gaurishankar-2, Dha1 X1 13/5/10

  First Norwegian married couple on the summit.


expid: EVER11149
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Garrett Madison
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Everest & Lhotse Expedition 2011
countries: S Africa
bcdate: 2011-04-14
smtdate: 2011-05-14
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2011-05-22
othersmts: Climbed Lhotse on 15 and 20 May
campsites: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(20/04,5900m),C2(22/04,6400m),C3(29/04,7300m),C4(13/05,8000m),Smt(14,19/05)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  Horst and Hart left C4 at 11:45 pm on 13 May. It was very windy (40m/h), however, when they reached the Balcony the wind had abated and they carried on. They reached the summit at 9:30 am. Good views. They spent about 10 minutes on the summit and returned to C4, where they arrived at 1:30 pm. They both slept and even though both wanted to climb Lhotse, Hart decided that Everest was enough for him. At midnight Horst left C4 to summit Lhotse. He went the traditional route via Lhotse C4 and summited on 15 May at 5:30 am. The AAI Sherpas fixed 600m on Lhotse on 14 May; however, the last 200m to the summit were not fixed and Horst had to use old rope. He spent about half an hour on the summit and descended to C2, where he arrived at 10 am. The next day he descended to BC. Horst decided to go back to climb Nuptse with Madison and Max Bunce from IMG. He took a helicopter back to BC and arrived there at 23 May.

  19 May summit team left 9:30 pm on 18 May. It was windy (Adventure Consultants and Mountain Trip also went that day). Lhakpa Rita and a Sherpa from AC had to break trail as there was fresh snow. Once the team got high, the wind abated and it turned out to be the perfect day. They stayed on the summit for one hour. They descended to C4, where they arrived at noon the same day.

  On the same day, Kami Rita Sherpa, Madison and Halliday departed from the South Col at 9:45 pm to summit Lhotse. They went the traditional way (via Lhotse C4) and summited Lhotse at 4:20 am. They waited for it to get light and left the summit around 5 am. They descended to C2, where they arrived at 2 pm. The following day, everyone descended to BC. The clients left BC on 22 May by helicopter, while Madison and Horst stayed to climb Nuptse together with Bunce.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C2 by members, apart from Halliday and Gibbons,
      who started using oxygen at C2 to top to C2.
    Sherpas from C4 to top to C4.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Rita, Thami, 9/9/66, Everest X12
    Tshering Dorje, Kharikhola, 20/7/70, Everest X12
    Dawa Nuru, Thami, 25/11/64, Everest X3 
    Ang Pasang, Thami, 19/6/67, Everest X10
    Mingma Dorje, Waku-4, 28/5/69, Everest X4
    Mingma Chhiring, Thami, 22/7/1968, Everest X12


expid: EVER11150
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Nathalie Lamoureux, Thierry De Molinari
sponsor: Trek-On-Line Everest Expedition 2011
countries: Andorra, Belgium
bcdate: 2011-05-05
smtdate: 2011-05-20
termdate: 2011-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 8270m due to strong wind and snowfall
campsites: BC(05/05,5200m),ABC(11/05,5400m),C1(18/05,7050m),C2(19/05,7900m),C3(20/05,8270m),xxx(20/05,8270m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  The three members of Trek On-Lines's group seemed to be two semi-independent parties, Ms Lamoureux and her Sherpa Pasang Nuru, and the two "Frenchmen", De Molinari and Domenech with their two Sherpas, Pemba Jangbu and Pemba Nuru.

  They arrived at BC together, but higher on the mountain, the Frenchmen were one day behind Ms. Lamoureux.

  Lamoureux and her Sherpa, Pasang Nuru, had intended to go to the summit from C2, so they started using oxygen from C1, but because of the weather conditions, they pitched a third high camp. The result was that their oxygen supply ran out before they could press on to the top.

  They pitched C3 at 8270m on 20 May, and this turned out to be the highest point they reached. Very strong winds blew up and stranded them there for 21 hours, and in the end they had no oxygen supply.

  When they managed to retreat to C1 at the North Col (7050m) on the 22nd, they decided to abandon the climb because conditions were not good enough to continue. They descended to ABC on the 23rd and to BC the next day.

  It turned out that they had reached the expedition's high point. De Molinari and Domenech, with their two Sherpas, had left C1 at 7:00 am on the 20th to go up to C2, but at 1:00 pm the wind storm with snow hit them at 7700m [8000m according to De Molinari] and they retreated to C1. They now abandoned their climb, were back in ABC on the 21st and in BC on the 22nd.

  The six climbers, intending to go to the summit from C2, started using oxygen from C1, but Lamoureux and Pasang Nuru made a C3 because of the weather conditions, and individual supplies of all six of them ran out before they could press on to the top.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Nuru, 17/5/74, Bupsa, Jubing-5, Solu, Everest X4 (including a north-south 
      traverse in 2007), Cho Oyu X1, Makalu X1
    Pemba Jangbu, 16/2/86, Bupsa, Jubing-5, Solu, Everest X1, Makalu X1
    Pemba Nuru (Kaila), 3/2/73, Pare, Everest X3, Lhotse X1, Makalu X1


  Thierry De Molinari - March 2012 (email to Billing Bierling)

  BC(05/05,5200m),ABC(12/05,6400m),C1(19/05,7000m),C2(20/05,8000m),xxx

  Departed C1 (7000m) at 7 am on 20 May and stopped at 8000m at 1:30 pm due to midday storm. Storm lasted until 3:00 am on 21 May. They returned to ABC at 4:00 pm on 21 May. They did not use oxygen or Sherpas. 

  Another reason for abandoning their summit bid was the death of a Ukranian climber from another team.


expid: EVER11151
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Francois Matter
sponsor: A Frenchmen on Everest
bcdate: 2011-04-14
smtdate: 2011-05-21
smttime: 0550
termdate: 2011-05-27
campsites: BC(14/04,5200m),ABC(18/04,6400m),C1(22/04,7000m),C2(29/04,7600m),C3(20/05,8200m),Smt(21/05)
accidents: Matter's right thumb got frostbitten, but it will heal
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  There was a long delay between establishments of C2 on 29 April and setting up of C3 on 20 May because the Chinese were late fixing the ropes above C2.

  Matter and his Sherpa, Pemba Nuru, left for the top on 20 May at 8:00 am (NST) and gained the summit at 5:50 am on the 21st. They did not return to C1 until 4:00 pm because of the number of very slow climbers on the ladder below the Second Step.

  They found a ladder 50 meters below the North Col, where C1 was located (as is customary).

  They were back in ABC on the 22nd and BC on the 24th, but had to wait for the yaks to bring down their gear from C1 and left BC only on the 27th.

  Matter used oxygen from C3 to the summit to 7600m in his descent to C1. Pema Nuru used it from C2 to the top to 7600m.

  Sherpa:
    Pema Nuru, 27/1/75 (14/10/2030), Jubing-7, Everest 22/5/10


expid: EVER11155
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Veronique Denys
sponsor: High Altitude Dreams Everest Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Tengboche->Debuche
bcdate: 2011-04-12
smtdate: 2011-05-20
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2011-05-23
campsites: BC(12/04,5400m),C1(16-17/04,6100m),C2(20/04,6500m),C3(07/05,7300m),C4(19/05,7950m),Smt(20/05)
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  Denys team first attempted for summit and reached C3. Then weather became very bad and went down to C2. Second attempt started from C2 on 18 May and got to C3. On 19 May reached C4. Denys, Ang Gyalzen and Pasang Dawa left C4 at 7 pm on 19 May. They got to the top at 6 am on 20 May and stayed on summit for less than 30 minutes. It was very windy and cold. The team descended to C4 at around 11 am. The team spent the night at C4. Next day 21 May descended to C2 and following day 22 May to BC.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Gyalzen (Ang Geljen, Rinji), Kharikhola, 24/06/73, Everest X2
    Pasang Dawa, 26/5/87, Sengma, Khumbu, Everest X2


expid: EVER11156
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Marc Nowak
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Everest
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2011-04-14
smtdate: 2011-05-21
smttime: 0545
termdate: 2011-05-25
campsites: BC(14/04,5100m),ABC(22/04,6500m),C1(30/04,7000m),C2(19/05,7800m),C3(20/05,8300m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 21 April at 5800m
  C1 at North Col.

  Nowak and Nuru left C3 at 9:45 pm on 20 May for the summit. They reached summit at 5:45 am on 21 May. They stayed on summit for one hour then returned to C3 where they arrived at 10:30 am. They continued to C2 and spent night there; next day 22nd May they went down to ABC. 

  Nowak wrote in his email that when they reached the summit there was already a Chinese team and after Nowak there were more or less 40-50 climbers who reached the summit.

  Sherpa:
    Nuru Wangchu, 18/8/77, Pangboche, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X3


expid: EVER11158
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Seth Wolpin
sponsor: Seth Wolpin Everest Expedition 2011
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Dingboche->Chhukung->Island Peak->Lobuche
bcdate: 2011-04-03
smtdate: 2011-05-13
smttime: 0525
termdate: 2011-05-17
campsites: BC(03/04,5334m),C1(18/04,5944m),C2(19/04,6492m),C3(28/04,7200m),C4(12/05,8016m),Smt(13/05)
agency: Himalayan Windhorse Adventure
routememo:
  Wolpin and Damai left C4 20:15 hours on 12 May. They reached summit at 5:25 am on 13 May. They stayed on top for 10 minutes, then descended to C4 where they reached at 10:30 am, then continued to C3. Next day Wolpin and Sherpa descended to BC.

  Sherpa:
    Damai Chhiri, 19/06/1975, Sikli, Jubing-9, Solu, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X1, 
      Kangchenjunga X1


expid: EVER11162
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Kuba Juszczyk
sponsor: Polish Climber on Everest
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2011-04-14
smtdate: 2011-05-22
termdate: 2011-05-28
termnote: Abandoned at 8600m due to frostbite
campsites: BC(14/04,5200m),ABC(19/04,6500m),C1(28/04,7000m),C2(20/05,7700m),C3(21/05,8300m),xxx(22/05,8600m)
agency: Yala Adventure
routememo:
  Juszczyk and Tamang started from C3 at 9 pm (CST) on 21 May. They reached at 8600m at 5 am on 22 May then started from C3 and 9 pm (CST) on 21 May. They reached 8600m at 5 am on 22 May then it started to get light. But very cold wind that effectively prevented further ascent and also realized they had frostbite so they turned around to C2. Next day 23 May went down to ABC.

  Hired:
    Bir Kaji Tamang, 10 Dec 1978 (25/8/2035), Gorakhani-4, Solu, 
      Everest 2010 with Alex Abramov


expid: EVER11163
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Jamie McGuinness
sponsor: Project Himalaya Everest 2011
countries: Azerbaijan, Singapore, USA
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2011-04-18
smtdate: 2011-05-27
smttime: 1145
termdate: 2011-05-31
campsites: BC(18/04,5180m),ABC(27/04,6400m),C1(30/04,7000m),C2(25/05,7650m),C3(26/05,8210m),Smt(27/05)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  The whole team (apart from Smithwick) left C3 at 11:45 pm on 26 May. The weather was windy and cold. There was fresh snow and they had to break trail.

  Smithwick reached C3 and did not join the summit attempt due to a urinary infection. He stayed at C3 while the rest of the group tried for the summit.

  Rawlinson reached 8300m; he did not feel good and turned back to C3 after 1 hour.

  Asgarov reached the ridge just below the 1st Step at about 8600m; he was worried about frostbite and found climbing in the wind too hard, so he turned back to C3 at 6:30 am.

  Morrow reached 8650m just above 1st Step, McGuinness called him back due to the windy conditions; he turned back to C3.

  McGuinness reached the bottom of 1st Step at about 8600m; he turned back at 7:15 am due to the bad conditions and the dangerously cold wind.

  Tan reached the top of the 3rd Step at 8750m and was also called back by McGuinness due to the cold and windy weather.

  Koh kept going to the summit with three Sherpas despite McGuinness calling him back. He reached the summit at 11:45 am (NST), but was in a large cloud in the top. He descended to C3, where he arrived at about 6 pm.

  Smithwick, Rawlinson, Asgarov and Morrow descended to C1 the same day. They arrived at 6 pm. The rest stayed at C3 for the night and descended to ABC on 28 May.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C1 from Rawlinson, Koh and Tan from C1 to high point to C1. 
    Rest of the group and Sherpas from C2 to high point (or summit) to C2.

  Sherpas:
    Puchhang Bhote, 2/4/80, Guthigumba, Chepuwa-3, Makalu-Barun, 
      Everest 23/5/09
    Jamling Bhote, 28/12/77, Hatiya, Hungung, Sankhuwasabha, 
      Everest 30/5/05, 21/5/07, 22/5/08, 20/05/09, 23/5/10, 
      Cho Oyu 25/5/06, 23/9/07
    Tawa Chhiri Sherpa, 12/10/2035, Sotang-6


expid: EVER11164
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Tim Mosedale
sponsor: Big E 2011 Expedition
countries: Australia
bcdate: 2011-04-23
smtdate: 2011-05-20
smttime: 0515
termdate: 2011-05-23
campsites: BC(23/04,5350m),C1(27/04,6000m),C2(29/04,6300m),C3(12/05,7100m),C4(18/05,7950m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  One member, Chris Cookson, had to drop out because of a serious altitude problem that he developed about 10 May, when he arrived at C2 (6300m). The leader escorted him down to C1, and he left the team on the 12th.

  All the remaining members and four Sherpas went to the summit. They left C4 on 19 May at 8:30 pm and summited on the 20th at different times: Ruck and Chayang Jangbu at 5:15 am, Dey with Nima Thundu at 7:20 am, Mosedale at 8:30 am, Larsen with Dorje Gyalzen at 9:20 am, and Hunt with Pasang Dawa at 9:40 am.

  Ruck and Pasang Dawa descended to C2 at 1:00 pm and to BC the next day, the 21st, while the rest of the summiters stopped in C4 between 11:00 am and 2:30 pm on the 20th, went down to C2 on the 21st and were in BC on the 22nd.

  All the summit team members used oxygen in C3 to the top to, but not in C2. Their Sherpas used it from C4 to the summit to C4.

  Sherpas:
    Dorje Gyalzen, 16/7/82, Pangboche, Everest X7, Manaslu X2, Cho Oyu X1
      (joined the summit party from C2: had summited on the 16th with Todd's team)
    Chayang Jangbu Bhote, 29/10/79 (12/7/2036), Hatiya-1, Makalu vdc, Everest X4
    Nima Thundu, 20/4/80, Pangboche, Everest X1
    Pasang Dawa (Pa Dawa), 18/1/77, Pangboche, Everest X13, Cho Oyu X5, Lhotse X1


expid: EVER11165
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Henry Todd
sponsor: British Everest Expedition
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2011-04-11
smtdate: 2011-05-16
smttime: 0745
termdate: 2011-05-22
campsites: BC(11/04,5350m),C1(23/04,5900m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(02/05,7200m),C4(15/05,8023m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Summit team left C4 at 10:30 pm on 15 May. It was windy. The Jagged Globe team was climbing in front of them. Burr and Lhakpa Wangchu were the first to reach the summit, but only stayed for about five minutes as it was too cold and windy. Ketchell, Dorje Gyalgen and Topchen stayed about 10 minutes when they arrived. Everyone descended to C4, where they arrived between noon and 2 pm. The following day they descended to C2 and on 18 May to BC.

  Bellworthy and Todd reached C2 on 24 April. Bellworthy was not feeling well during her night at C2 and complained of a tingling on her left side and numb face. She was put on oxygen and descended with Todd on 25 April. They immediately went to see the doctors at the Himalayan Rescue Association, who advised her to leave. She flew out by helicopter on 27 April. Todd remained at BC for the rest of the expedition.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members.
    Taken and used from C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Wangchu, Pangboche, 23/10/86
      Everest 17/5/ & 24/5/07, 24/5/08, 21/5/09, 17 & 25/5/10
      Manaslu 5/10/08, 28/09/08, 30/9/10
    Dorje Gyalzen, Pangboche, 16/7/82
      Everest 17/5/ & 24/5/07, 22/5/08, 21/5/09, 17 & 25/5/10
      Manaslu 5/10/08, 30/9/10 (w Cool)
      Cho Oyu 24/9/09
    Topchen Lama, Pangboche, 28/8/79
      Everest 25/5/06, 17/5/ & 24/5/07


expid: EVER11167
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Takashi Ozaki
sponsor: Ozaki Filming Expedition to Everest
bcdate: 2011-04-14
smtdate: 2011-05-12
termnote: Abandoned at 8800m due to Ozaki's hypoxia and resulting death
campsites: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(22/04,6000m),C2(27/04,6500m),C3(10/05,7200m),C4(11/05,7900m),xxx(12/05,8800m)
accidents: Ozaki's death; Jaya Bahadur had frostbitten toes
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  C4 at South Col
  High point at top of Hillary Step.

  Ozaki, Jaya Bahadur Rai and Tul Bahadur Tamang left C4 for the top at 9pm on 11 May. At 6:30 am on the 12th they had reached 8800m, the top of the Hillary Step, in very windy weather with occasional white-out. Here Tul Bahadur asked Ozaki whether he wanted to go on up to the summit. The answer was to turn back; he was weak and cold and strong wind was blowing.

  It took them five hours to descend 150 vertical meters to their cache of oxygen at 8650m near the South Summit. Here Ozaki changed oxygen bottles, but he continued to complain that he was not getting enough oxygen, and he took off his mask. He was now unable to walk or function mentally. Tul Bahadur had to grab him from the back as Ozaki struggled against him as he tried to carry Ozaki down.

  Only 50-60 meters lower, they sat down; it was now about 12 o'clock noon. Ozaki could no longer move. There they remained until Ozaki died at 2:45 pm, according to the autopsy report due to hypoxia.

  In his struggle with Ozaki, Tul Bahadur lost his goggles, and he was now snowblinded. Ozaki's body was tied to the fixed rope, and Tul Bahadur and Jaya Bahadur Rai descended to C3, where a doctor told Tul Bahadur to stay there and Jaya Bahadur to go down to BC to save his frostbitten toes and to send Pasang up to Tul Bahadur.

  Three Sherpas from another expedition led by the Japanese climber Kenji Kondo also went up to bring Ozaki's body down to C4 at the South Col. Other Sherpas brought his body to C2, from where a helicopter carried it to Kathmandu. It was later (on 26 May) cremated at Syambhunath, Kathmandu, with the ashes being taken by his family to Japan and France (his widow is French).

  Ozaki was the only person on the team who used oxygen. He was on it up from C3 to 8800m and down ot his collapse.

  Hired:
    Jaya Bahadur (Prakash) Rai, 2/3/74, Makalu-6 (Makalu-Barun), Makalu 18/5/08
    Pasang Tamang, 4/12/68, Deusa, Solu, Everest X3
    Tul Bahadur Tamang, 3/10/66, Deusa, Solu, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2, Manaslu X1


