# exped

expid: DHA196305
peakid: DHA1
year: 1996
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Anatoli Mochnikov
sponsor: St. Petersburg Dhaulagiri Expedition to Dhaulagiri I
ascent1: 89th
countries: Lithuania
bcdate: 1996-09-24
smtdate: 1996-10-21
campsites: BC(24/09,4400m),C1(26/09,5800m),C2(27/09,6600m),C3(12/10,7200m),C4(20/10,7400m),Smt(21/10)
accidents: Ivanov 2 frostbitten fingers and might lose tips
agency: Mountain Trekkers Service
routememo:
  C1 at NE Col
  C2 on NE Ridge
  C3 on NE Ridge
  C4 at snow cave till winds destroyed its thin walls.

  On 21st Oct summit bid from C4 by Mochnikov, Astanine and Maiorov at 7:00 am; Astanine and Maiorov turned back at 8000m at 4:30 pm when still 3 hours below summit, fog and wind came up and Mochnikov had already climbed much faster, been to top and now rejoined them in his descent. All 3 returned to C4 that night, Mochnikov at 6:00 pm and other 2 at 7:00 pm. 22nd all 3 all the way to BC in wind and and cloudy alternating with sunshine. Had only 3 good days of weather (19-21 Oct).

  An earlier summit party had been unable to move above C4 because of fierce winds - spent night of 16th in cave here and then descended. Most left BC and returned to KTM leaving only 21st Oct summit party and Choustrov brothers.


  Dhaulagiri 1996 Autumn by A. Moshnikov and S. Shibaev (from Russian website)

  On Sept 13, 1996 13 people left the Moscow Railway Station in St. Petersburg for a long journey. 10 days later they were at the foot of Dhaulagiri, where they made their base camp at an altitude of 4700m. The Japanese Swiss Austrian fellow mountaineers cheerfully greeted the arrived rivals. Only Bart Vos, a Dutch looked with suspicion. This was his third attempt to climb the peak. He was robbed here during this last climbing in 1995. He blamed the theft of Bulgarian climbers, and certainly he did not see much difference between Bulgarians and Russians. The Petersburg's team climbing was agreed to follow the classic Swiss route over the north east ridge.

  The 21st Oct was the last of the three days allotted. At 7:30 in the morning three (Astanine, Maiorov and Moshnikov left the assault camp at the 7400 mark. They carried n oxygen. The gap between the leading Moshnikov and the two other alpinists gradually increased. Anatoly headed to the north east ridge. When he reached it, he got a severe wind blow on the face that made him to change his mind and continue on the unfamiliar, but sheltered, northern side. When in the vicinity of the summit, he tried once more to climb up the ridge, he was held off by a huge cornice. No sinews, no time left to get it over. Got to descend a little, loosing the precious metres of altitude, retreat a little, and then climb again. At 15-30 there was no where to go up 8167m.

  That evening Moshnikov put down in his dairy:

  The Mountain... Capitalized. It is only for a while that will receive if you became part of here, learnt her ways, and live in peace with her. The summit is not just a pile of stones snow and gusty winds, and all the world underneath. There is more to it; yourself and your solitude. You did it in defiance of everything and everybody, but once again you just overcame... yourself. It is impossible to overcome the Mountain.

  The air which always in short supply .. The wind that presses icy palm tight to your mouth. The wind does not know that you are human... the frozen snow is resounding under your weight, and your nerve tips seems to be bared, and you are listening to the moans, whispers, ropes. They extinguishing senses drive you up, where there is nothing at all. 

  But, Lo there is nowhere to climb up any more .. Don't believe it! This is just the beginning. Descent... Fog has rolled suddenly, like a bolt from the blue as usual. Where to go? All got mixed up. Familiar places you passed just a couple of hours before have changed beyond recognition and look hostile. 

  By 18 o'clock they descended to the assault camp. The two Anatolys met in descent had opted not to take risk the lit hours would certainly have been not long enough for them to return to the tent. The next day, having dismantled the tents on the way, they reached the base camp by 10 o'clock in the night. Now it will take them a day to Jomsom than a flight to KTM and then to Moscow.

  Leaving the camp, they took just enough packet soups and tea to last a day. They had no way of knowing that that there will be a trap on the way that will hold them for five days.

  Snow had started last night, and they watched the blanket of snow grow up beginning from 20 cm to 1.5 m. The cosy green terraces became avalanche threatening hillsides. They only managed 1-1.5 km a day. On that day three, when after two mountain passes, their route came to run along a canyon edge, they had to stop altogether. They were lucky that had overtaken Bart Vos on their day two march, and the Dutch who had, after his third (and again vain) attempt, to retire from Dhaulagiri hesitatingly joined them. Bart had a primus and fuel, and they had tea and packet soups.

  23.10. It's hard to rise in the morning; all is aching, convulsions, completely exhausted. Got to straigthen gradually and, avoiding sharp motions, to crawl out of the tent. A grey morning, no slightest hope for a sunshine. Austrians... hardly can be expected to start early. It is drizzling. 

  Dragged ourselves to the pass. Thought we couldn't stomach gnawing all the time, moving with difficulty, feeling bad. Perhaps overstrained myself leading all the time, but the old rule "lead until someone else comes to the fore" stll holds. Just below the pass I felt I couldn't manage any more and proposed to halt for the night. Another came to the fore. Made the pass, descended a little, and stopped. Snowing was becoming increasingly heavier. Drank some spirit. A little better.

  24.10 In the morning - fog and snow again. Got trapped. A faint still lingered ... then died.

  Started at 8:00 without breakfast. Distressed, nothing visible around, located the path as the blind to. It is only the feeling of no return that drives us forward, 4 exhausting hours and there was a tent! Cold greetings, but ... hot coffee some noodles and life starts glimerring again. Now Bud is with us, Bud knows the way. Winged, we climbed the pass, and no visibility further, heavy snowing again. The mountain sides imperceptibly become steeper and steeper, the surroundings inexorably turn grey, wind blew, we got scared. Fog, snow storm, we got completely lost 4 o'clock. This is the final curtain.
    
  25.10. Did not rise up since morning. All is quite clear. Planes, like boats, wait no men, and we have missed our train to get to the airport in time. There is a hope still, supposing it clears but.. the thick opaque milk of the fog is becoming something beating against the tent and here you are got to dig ourselves up again. We are at the edge of an avalanche collector and hear the "first trains" of avalanches go down from the steep slopes. Luckily, at a certain distance from us, though not too far away; they say, one will never hear one's avalanche, as well as one's stone.

  Drank the remaining spirit. A little better, but of course not very long.

  26.10 Still lying. Silence. The snow rustles. Nothing to eat for a quite a while. Ransacked everything in search of a couple of mislaid candies; nothing, except medicine. Tried to play cards and strangely enough the foolish game helped divert.

  27.10 Saw a clearance in the morning and crawled out. All but powerless to pick up the rucksack. Something happened to your constitution, and you reach the bound, beyond which there is a threshold of indifference to your fate only an idiot is going to climb these slopes.

  Bud promises a plateau soon, and seems to doubt his own words... but still tramples. Got to fight in earnest now, all joking aside for the lives for many more things.

  The night is coming, Bud, glad, declared again that the plateau is already soon but I do not recognize the surroundings. Halted.

  28.10 Snowing from the morning, powerless to get up, though it is quite to Marfa village. Bud stimulates his primus already startng since 6 o'clock, burning the fuel down: filled up the thermos, that was all. Today is a decisive day: "to be or not to be." Feebleness it is that to humilate.

  Last nght Kostya was bad: he had eaten 6 tablets of codeine to suppress feeling of hunger and seems to be suppressed himself a little. Were giving him tea having burnt down the last remains of canned gas. The night was hard. Started nevertheless. Bud proposed to unload Kostya: to carry his belongings is easier than to carry himself.

  The beginning was very hard... It is cold though the sun is seen through the clouds and there is a visibility. Bud is leading and trampling like the steam train, but the slopes are dangerous. The crest is very close but we are crawling like snails waist deep in snow. Twice I changed the socks because the toes got frozen. There nothing exists in the organisms.

  For all that reached the crest, its easier to go down. Not far to forest, will make, Made.. At last, after the deathly silence of the Snow Queen's world we hear sout of yaks bells and birds cries. The forest smell, the village this time escaped.

  By the end of the sixth day they got to the first village then a day later were in Jomsom. Not less then three hundred tourist group caught by the same snowfall wre accumulated in the village to wait for flights for KTM. Our heroes could spend there more a couple of weeks waiting, but fortunately, the Dutch who knew everything and everybody here and during the journey together changed to better his opinion about the Slovonic nationalities, found out a "local aouthority" and they got to start with almost the first flight.

  PS. That fall nobody had conquered Mt. Dhaulagiri except for the Peterburg expedition. In spite of that the path was made and the ropes were fixed.


expid: DHA196303
peakid: DHA1
year: 1996
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Arthur Haid
sponsor: Tirolean Himalaya Expedition 1996
approach: Kali Gandaki
bcdate: 1996-09-16
smtdate: 1996-10-12
termdate: 1996-10-14
campsites: BC(16/09,4700m),Depot.Biv(20/09,5200m),C1(24/09,5800m),C2(11/10,6600m),xxx(12/10,7200m)
accidents: Porter to BC very sick at BC from altitude on 17th
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C2 on NE Ridge
  High point on NE Ridge.

  2nd Oct all in attempt to reach C2 stopped at 6200m by heavy snowfall, pitched tent for one night then next day dug snowhole (Flossman and Stemmer reached this place) and stayed there because of avalanche danger and wind and heavy snowfall continued. Then to C1, joined Haid and 2 Sherpas there and all to BC on 6th. 9th again up to C1, 11th Flossman and Stemmer and 1 Sherpa to C2. 12th Flossman, Stemmer and Tashi reached 7200m and back C1 (because wind and snowstorm). 13th to BC after decided on 12th climb finished. Left BC via Myagdi Khola; from Baglung to KTM.

  Oxygen used only by sick porter.


expid: DHA196301
peakid: DHA1
year: 1996
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Pierre-Alain Romagnoli
sponsor: Freiburger Dhaulagiri Expedition
approach: Kali Gandaki->French Pass
bcdate: 1996-09-06
smtdate: 1996-10-10
termdate: 1996-10-13
termnote: Abandoned on 11 Oct due to deep snow
campsites: BC(06/09,4700m),C1(16/09,5400m),C2(17/09,6200m),Biv(09/10,7200m),xxx(10/10,7900m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Romagnoli - 18th Oct 99

  18 Sept down to BC because snow falling; again up from BC on 26th but again snow falling and down from C2 on 27th; up on 8 Oct to C2 and 9th to 7200m biv in snow cave. 10th to 7900m in attempt to reach summit, but slightly windy and deep snow so down to C2 on 10th, and 11th to BC and climb finished.


expid: ANN496302
peakid: ANN4
year: 1996
route1: NW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Cleve Armstrong, Chad Alber
sponsor: 1996 C.M.C. Annapurna IV Expedition
bcdate: 1996-09-24
smtdate: 1996-10-01
termdate: 1996-10-06
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to death of two members
campsites: Pre-BC(23/09,3965m),BC(24/09,4665m),C1(27/09,5400m),xxx(01/10,6100m)
accidents: Fatal event of 4th Oct (Marshall & Davidson suffocated in tent buried by snow)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  C1 at North Face of NW Ridge
  C2 (never occupied) North Face of NW Ridge.
  High point at site for C2.

  Armstrong - 10 Oct 1996

  1 Oct C2 site reached in moist deep snow and loads buried there (buried to protect from birds) and down to C1. Route was not technically difficult but laborious climb because of deep snow; there was some avalanche danger on way to C2. 2nd down to BC while some carried loads to C1. On 3rd Armstrong, Davidson, Marshall + Alber and 2 Sherpas up to C1, Alber and Sherpas dumped loads and descended to BC leaving Armstrong, Davidson and Marshall. Avalanche 10m wide & 3m deep swept on 3rd to right of route. Armstrong lifted off by helicopter from C1 and brought to KTM on 6th Oct.

  * For details of death of Marshall and Davidson, see attached account by Armstrong dated 6 Oct '96. They suffocated in their tent while sleeping early in the morning of the 4th.


  Ministry of Tourism - 6 Oct 96
   
  Rich Davidson, Aspen, 50  
  Miss Debbie L. Marshall, Denver, born 12/62, Teacher

  4 Oct 11 am hit by avalanche between BC and high camp - same day Cleve Armstrong leader swept by avalanche and today rescued by army helicopter from 17,000 feet above BC and brought to KTM.

  Total 3 hit by avalanche
  Davidson & Marshall are missing
  BC - 4400m
  C1 - 4900m planned


  Kathmandu, Nepal
  2:55 pm, 06 October 1996

  The Tragic 1996 CMC Annapurna IV Expedition

     This morning I was dusted off Camp I (approximately 5400m) by Lt. Colonel Lama and Major Thapa colleagues of the same Nepal Army helicopter pilot that did the record rescue on Mt. Everest last spring. Other than one hour of slight clearing yesterday afternoon this was the first feasible weather for such an attempt. Last night was the first one (of three) that heavy, wet snow was not falling at the rate and 1-1/2 meters plus per night. All stoves and pots had been covered up so there was no way to melt snow into water, resulting in my severe dehydration. I diluted my warm urine with snow to drink. I could not eat much and had used my all available energy to continually dig out the tent that was my life haven.
     When I heard the chopper I hurriedly put on my seat harness, should they have to winch me in, and put a few things in my day pack. After two observatory runs they approached Camp I low from the east and hovered with runners just off the snow about fifteen meters from the edge of the two to three-meter deep hole where my tent was. They motioned for me to come to them and opened the right hand door. I jumped and clawed my way out of the tent hole on to the sinking ambient snow surface. This was my one chance to live and it was obvious they couldn't stay there very long. The swirling snow from the chopper made my objective barely visible. After a maximum effort of clawing and swimming on my belly my hand finally grabbed a runner and I did a pull up to where it was a possible to grab a seat brace with my left hand and do a higher pull-up, lunging onto the floor of the back seat. The door slammed shut and we lifted up. I could taste the blood I was coughing up as I rose to a seat and removed my day pack, put on the seat/shoulder belt.
     The co-pilot asked "where do yo want to go?" I said, "Kathmandu" feeling sad and guilty about leaving our four remaining teammates to "clean" the mountain, but realising I would present more of a liability than an asset, a danger and casualty to both them and myself. There would be important official business to take care of in the Kathmandu and the sad task of informing the families of those two who had died six meters away from me at about 05:00 4 October 1996 before or when the VE-25 tent they were sleeping in collapsed under heavy snow load.
     We dropped quickly down to the runway at Hongde to pick up the liaison officer of a failed one-man Finnish attempt (he had helped arranged my dust off) and injured Australian trekker and his wife. Arriving at Kathmandu Airport I was met by David Schensted, Consul, and Gary Berntsen, First Secretary for Political/Military Affairs of the US Embassy, who took me to the medical clinic. Later, at lunch in the wonderful hospitality of Gary and Rebecca's home, they informed that they had not earlier been informed of our expedition or our plight and explained how much faster and surer my rescue might have been had I registered our team with the US Embassy upon arrival 18 Sept 96. They can sometimes bring in technical equipment and expertise to vastly improve speed and accuracy beyond what is available to the Nepalis, whose Army DOES work very well with them and is sometimes helped by them. I strongly suggest that all American expeditions and trekking groups register with the US Embassy immediately upon arrival both for rescue and in case of emergency at home. We made two Official calls to my people at home to provide information as to who died and how, as initial reports were incorrect.
     Nick Cofman, our team's Nepali-speaking youngest and strongest member, and I had arrived in Nepal 18 Sept to make initial arrangements and secure final Governmental permission so the rest of our seven-member team could arrive 20 September and we could all fly to Hongde, 3372 meters and directly below Annapurna IV base camp 21 September aboard a Russian MI-17 chopper. We had bought substantial additional necessary equipment, like Perlon fixed line, more pickets and EPI-gas canisters.
     As both mountain leader and expedition doctor (I'm actually an optometrist and trained army and high altitude medic), I wanted to establish liaison with the Himalayan Rescue Association in Manang, a one and one-half hour walk upstream along the Marsyangdi Khola, which runs east on a line parallel and north of the Annapurna range crest. Upon arriving there we found them closed until October. The next day I carried a load up to the real base camp 4665 meters. The following night we got all equipment (some via donkey) and personnel to a camp above Birch Flats at about 3965 meters, arriving at the base camp early the following afternoon. It is the cleanest base camp of any World Class Peak I have been to except Peak Lenin. We found a Buddhist chorten and set up our cook tent inside a remaining rock shelter wall built below it.
     The weather continued to be wonderfully warm and clear, so in the next two days Nick Cofman and Mark blazed a trail across the two-kilometer glacial moraine to the base of a steep scree slope leading to a wet, loose couloir ending with a snow field below our approximately 5400-meter Camp I. Chad Alber, our expedition co-leader (administration) termed it "5.4 loose rock and snow,"  and we eventually put in fixed line over much of it. The afore-mentioned Finn and his Sherpas had warned us that much of their equipment and food cashes had been ranshacked by large birds and that no tent or other item could be left unattended. This was readily proven by finding Mark's hard hat, harness and other heavy non-edible climbing equipment quite a few meters from where he had left it buried under rocks the previous day at the bottom of the couloir. Our old VE-24, set up as a storage tent at Camp I for non-food items, was torn into by the birds and later repaired with duct tape. It helped save my life.
     3 October 96 we had placed fixed line in most difficult and dangerous places on the route to Camp I and were busily stocking it for support of Camp II, approximately 6100 meters, where Nick and Mark had already buried some supplies. It had snowed about one-third meter and made the route to the Camp I easier, but the route to Camp II nearly waist-deep in snow near it's end. Lightly falling snow made it more feasible to continue stocking Camp I, where Nick and Mark had already slept six nights. We decided they would return to base camp and some of the rest of us who had carried up. Rich Davidson, Debbie Marshall and myself would sleep there to acclimatize and guard the camp against invading birds.
     We conducted avalanche transciever practice, then spent time in their tent late that afternoon when Debbie spoke of the risk/reward balance between the laurel of being the first American women to ascend Annapurna IV versus the possibility of her sixteen-month old son losing his mother. Rich spoke of the love he and Claudette shared. I spoke of my declining membership on the '79 Annapurna I expedition because I alone was raising my twelve-year-old daughter, and each attempt on that mountain had lost at least one person to objective danger. We ate supper together.
     At midnight I woke up and shoveled the quickly falling heavy wet snow off and from around Rich and Debbie's VE-25 and the same with my old VE-24. We had earlier discussed the asphyxiation possibilities in the VE-25 should it's vestibule become closed off, and when I suggested the back entrance, they showed me that the zipper only opened from the bottom not from the top, like the front of a VE-24. A zipper which opens from the top allows you to breathe or escape from when a meter of snow rapidly accummulates. Rich asked me to shovel out the Mega-mid that enclosed our cooking operation, but I replied that it was collapsed by the heavy snow, including a snapped center pole, that we would have to deal with it in the morning under day light. It was now 01:30 4 October 1996 and before I turned to my tent and sleeping bag Rich agreed to get up at about 02:30 or 03:00 and shovel off and out both our tents which I heard him do. Debbie's turn would presumably come about 06:00.
     Waking about 08:00 and knocking the snow off my tent from the inside I made a radio call to Chad Alber, expedition co-leader, at base camp, saying that we had spent the night taking turns shoveling and that after we did a lot more we might try our Sherpa Snowshoes out on the now deep route to Camp II. Chad and I agreed to another radio call at noon. Rich also had a radio and I had heard him make the call the previous evening. That Rich had not participated in this morning's radio call meant they were still sleeping or something was wrong. I dressed and unzipped the top opening door of the VE-24 and found a meter-high wall of consolidated snow which was laboriously pushed away until a escape was possible. Wading towards Rich and Debbie's tent, then seeing it collapsed with no human movement made apparent the tragedy that had occured between 04:30 and 08:00. They had suffocated in their sleep before or after the heavy snow collapsed their tent. Their feet were toward the vestibule, so they if had become conscious when the tent collapsed they still could not have a escaped through it because one cannot crawl and claw feet first. The bottom opening zipper of the VE-25's back door would have opened toward a consolidated snow wall and without a two-way zipper, could not allow the upper vent hole that might have saved their lives as the top opening of the front door of my VE-24 had likely saved mine, both through ventilation and escape possibilities.
     Initially I could only reach the bottom end of one sleeping bag through the collapsed vestibule, as I frantically kept screaming their names and praying there might be SOME response. Pulling on the foot of the sleeping bag only it came out of the tent, revealing a pair of stocking covered, cold feet with no ankle pulse. I could not pull their owner at all. Digging deeper and pulling away tent fabric revealed Rich's still warm head and upper trunk, cold extremities, no neck pulse, fixed and dilated pupils, nearly black blood dripping from his nose and mouth.
     Continued exhaustive digging and pulling away of tent fabric gained the foot of Debbie's sleeping bag. This time instead of pulling on it I unzipped the bottom of it and pulled it out via the cold feet inside. Debbie's body was in a same condition as Rich's except that rigormortis had already set in her extremities. Her camera remained between her legs where she had placed it to keep the batteries warm. Anohter half-meter of heavy, wet snow fell during this    time and I was exhausted and soaked. My Moonstone Gortex parka had failed miserably and life partially depended on my staying dry while continously shovelling the rapidly falling wet snow, I grabbed Rich's North Face Gortex parka, which fully did it's job and helped save my life along with some other clothes which I never used, and the other radio should mine give out.
     Noon radio contact relayed the shocking information to Chad, Mark, Nick and Tom that Rich and Debbie were dead and by what means. Chad was so blown away he could not speak, so he gave the radio to one of the others. They agreed to keep their radio on so I could contact them at any time. We realized that the route from the base camp to Camp I had become impassible because the fixed lines were buried and extreme avalanche hazard existed; that my only chance of survival would be if I could continue to shovel the on-going heavy snowfall without much water, food or sleep until it cleared enough for a hoped-for helicopter dust off. Ang Kami, one of our Sherpas was despatched from BC to Hongde to relay such request, through channels, to the Army.
     Shoveling snow off and around my tent until exhaustion and darkness, I crawled in and changed into drier clothes, tried to sleep, but was too afraid to. Prayed for help and guidance and that I would listen, recognize and obey immediately. I got guidance that my sleeping arrangement must be turned around, so that my head was at the door, and that all vents must be maximally open to air circulation without allowing in snow or liquid. My watch alarm was set to go off in one and a half hours, whereupon dressing and a two-hour snow shoveling shift began. This was repeated throughtout the night. Basecamp urged me to dig for the stove and the pot in Nick's tent or the trashed Mega-mid, so I could make water, but it was too great a gamble. It would involve the energy of swimming through deeps snow, then guessing where to dig the three-meter deep exploratory hole... and likely missing; or if a stove and pot were found, maybe burning up my tent and myself in my weak fumbling state. A couple partially filled water bottles have been salvaged from Rich and Debbie's tent. Between them and my warm urine diluted with snowballs I bet on getting by until the weather cleared and warm sun could melt snow placed in the dark plastic or a helicopter could arrive. Base camp reported one and one half meters of still falling snow. They dispatched another Sherpa, Ang Gelu on Sherpa Snowshoes to Hongde to be doubly sure the helicopter rescue was set for first clearing and to ride with them on their first fly by to locate Camp I for them. Not knowing if my death would come before first clearing I sat down to write Karon a last letter on my one piece of paper, my professional card in the top of my pack. Huge avalanches were now raining down all around Camp I and I was beginning to feel like a mouse, kept alive and tormented by a cat for a long time before it's death and consumption. I almost envied Rich and Debbie for having died probably quickly and easily through suffocation in their sleep. I prayed and cried. That night it cleared and I slept some.

  Source:  Cleve Armstrong


expid: ANN196301
peakid: ANN1
year: 1996
route1: S Face (Bonington rte)
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Mstislav Gorbenko
sponsor: Ukrainian Annapurna Expedition
ascent1: 34
bcdate: 1996-09-06
smtdate: 1996-10-20
smttime: 1610
termdate: 1996-10-30
accidents: Kovalev slightly frostbite in toes; Gorbenko chest infection on walkout
agency: Windhorse Trekking
campsites:
  BC(06/09,4300m),ABC(11/09,4800m),C1(15/09,5300m),C2(17/09,6100m),C3(23/09,6500m),C4(02/10,6800m),C5(15/10,7000m),C6(17/10,7300m),C7(19/10,7700m),Smt(20/10)

routememo:
  ABC on moraine
  C1  on glacier
  C2  on ridge of South Face
  C3  on South Face
  C4  on South Face
  C5  on South Face
  C6  on South Face
  C7  in snow cave on South Face.

  20 Oct 3 members from C7 at 9:00 am, on top 4:10 pm and returned to C7 at 6:00 pm. Very bad weather; very windy and snow falling. 2 other members had started up from C7 but turned back because of extreme cold. 

  On 22nd 4 more members [Leontiev, Gorbenko, Koval and Kopytko] tried for top but not above C7 and down and climb finished. 

  "Super danger" from snow avalanche mushrooms; but not very difficult technically says Kovalev. 
  One snowstorm in Oct covered all tents, ropes, etc. and took a week to uncover them and reassemble them.

  Took 6 days for 2nd summit party to descnd to BC in greater snowstorm; many ropes destroyed in storm; had to carry tent down because couldn't find camps.

  Took 6 days for 2nd summit party to descend to BC in greather snowstorm: many ropes destroyed in storm; had to carry tent down because couldn't find camps.


expid: ANN196304
peakid: ANN1
year: 1996
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Michal Kochanczyk
sponsor: Gdansk Himalaya Exedition Annapurna 1996
ascent1: 33rd
countries: Ukraine, USA
bcdate: 1996-09-03
smtdate: 1996-10-20
smttime: 1500
termdate: 1996-10-28
achievment: 1st ascent this route
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(03/09,4100m),C1(08/09,5100m),C2(09/09,5700m),C3(18/09,6100m),C4(12/10,6500m),C5(15/10,7100m),Smt(20/10)

routememo:
  BC at lower normal BC site
  C4 on ridge just south of cauliflower ridge.

  Kochanczyk, Marciniak - 31 Oct 96

  20th was last day of weather good enough to try for summit; bad weather and heavy snowfall and wind [followed]. Night of 20 Oct C4's 2 or 3 tents destroyed by wind. Started fixing rope below C1 but between C1 to C2 not much fixed; most of rope used above C3 to C5 and higher. C3 and C4 was sharp ridge (cauliflower ridge) and rock above C5 also most difficult part of route; much worse than West Ridge of Everest. Took 4 days to fix rope on rock barrier from C4 to C5. This route most difficult of any Marciniak has climbed.

  This route should become the standard route because route is logical and safe. Italian route to its left is very dangerous, says Kochancyzk.


expid: ANN496306
peakid: ANN4
year: 1996
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Malaysia
leaders: Balasubramanium Duraisamy
sponsor: Pre-Everest 1997 to Annapurna IV
ascent1: 28th
bcdate: 1996-10-19
smtdate: 1996-11-10
smttime: 1505
termdate: 1996-11-12
campsites: LowBC(19/10,3700),ABC(20/10,4700m),C1(05/11,5300m),C2(07/11,6300m),C3(09/11,7100m),Smt(10/11)
accidents: Kasim chest problem; Ramaswamy frostbite
achievment: 1st Malaysian ascent of any 7000m mountain
agency: Amtrek
routememo:
  BC at Sabje Khola
  BC at glacier's northern end
  C1 on North Face
  C2 just below the Dome
  C3 on NW Ridge.

  After making BC, on 25th Oct went down to Hongde because of heavy snowfall and returned to lower BC on 31st, BC on 1 Nov and climb progressed steadily after that in good weather. Fixed from C1 to below C3; technically not difficult; only one crevasse - total rope fixed was 1700m because 800m rope fixed at start was lost in snowfall and had to be replaced. Ramaswamy didn't want to use oxygen but when he and Sherpas reached false summit at 7300m and Sherpa recommended because of wind to use oxygen (and 2 Sherpas tied on to him to balance him in face of strong wind); used oxygen from 7300m up to 7400m only and while descent approach to C3 because vomiting - frostbitten toes and finger while going up and down. Ramaswamy and 4 Sherpas left C3 on 10th Nov at 7:00 am reached summit at 3:05 pm and returned to C3 at 7:15 pm. Ramaswamy got to BC on 11th at 3:30 pm and was carried by Sherpas on 12th to Hongde, from where he was evacuated by helicopter to KTM on 13th.


expid: ANN296301
peakid: ANN2
year: 1996
route1: N Face of Annapurna II-IV
nation: Germany
leaders: Andreas Hille
sponsor: Annapurna II Camp 4 Expedition
approach: Via Sabje Khola
bcdate: 1996-09-27
smtdate: 1996-10-14
termdate: 1996-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(27/09,4700m),ABC(28/09,5200m),C1(13/10,5600m),xxx(14/10,6000m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC  same as US Annapurna IV teams
  ABC at moraine at North Face of Annapurna II and IV
  C1  on North Face of Annapurna II-IV.

  Early Oct big snowfall stopped all climbing. 14th reached 6000m on North Face of Annapurna IV and thus decided impossible for 4-man team in bad snow conditions to continue.


expid: ANN496303
peakid: ANN4
year: 1996
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Werner Tinkhauser
sponsor: Italian Annapurna Expedition IV Expedition
countries: Italy
approach: Marshyangdi Valley
bcdate: 1996-10-07
smtdate: 1996-10-11
termdate: 1996-10-18
termnote: Abandoned on 15 Oct due to heavy snowfall
campsites: BC(07/10,3800m),C1(10/10,4600m),xxx(11/10,5600m)
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 3800m because snow 1/2m even at that height
  High point on North Face of NW Ridge.

  C1 depot robbed of ropes, ice-axe, carabiners, gas; when it was made just a depot the day before camp was set up.


expid: NILS96301
peakid: NILS
year: 1996
route1: S Face
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Tadej Golob
sponsor: Slovenian Nilgiri Expedition
bcdate: 1996-09-28
smtdate: 1996-10-10
termdate: 1996-10-11
termnote: Abandoned on 10 Oct due to deep snow after avalanche
campsites: BC(28/09,4100m),ABC(10/10,5000m),xxx(10/10,5400m)
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC  at Hung Khola
  ABC below the rock face of South Face.

  Tadej Golob - 16 Oct 96

  4 & 5 Oct a lot of snow. Came back the next day to BC. Went back a couple of days later to find ABC swept away by avalanche. The walk took two hours more because of the deep snow. It was extremely cold that day.


expid: ANN496304
peakid: ANN4
year: 1996
route1: N Face of NW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Zbigniew Mlynarczyk
sponsor: DAV Summit Club IV Annapurna Expedition
approach: By air->Hongde, then walk to BC
bcdate: 1996-10-07
smtdate: 1996-10-19
termdate: 1996-10-25
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to bad weather & heavy constant snowfall
campsites: BC(07/10,3700m),ABC(10/10,4600m),C1(16/10,5300m),Deposit(19,22/10,6200m),xxx(23/10,6200m)
accidents: Stomach problem for 2 and too much for other 2
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  C1 whole group moved to C1 on North Face of NW Ridge
  High point at just below the Dome.

  Birds attacked camps in 1 and 2 dumped tent to steal food.

  On 23 brought book material from proposed C1, good move for it snowed in the afternoon. Evening heavy snow. 24th morning 40 cm snow in ABC and still snowing. 25th 60 cm in BC. 1-1/2 cm in ABC and still snowing. 25th evening 2 cm in snow in ABC. 28th moved and Pokhara by helicopter.

  Fran Khasser and Schoenwald on the other DAV expedition joined them and reached C1 on 19th Oct.

  High point of 6200m reached on 19th by Franz, Kurze, Mr & Mrs Mlynarczyk; on 22nd by 2 Mlynarczyks, Mueller and Prommensberger; and on 23rd by Mr Mlynarczyk alone to bring down gear left there.


expid: ANN496301
peakid: ANN4
year: 1996
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Finland
leaders: Mika Kerttunen
sponsor: Mika Expedition to Annapurna IV
bcdate: 1996-09-20
smtdate: 1996-09-28
termdate: 1996-10-02
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to loss of food supplies
campsites: BC(20/09,4900m),C1(23/09,5500m),C2(24/09,5600m),C3(26/09,5800m),C4(28/09,6200m),xxx(30/09,6200m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Sherpa guide
routememo:
  C4 stayed two nights due to bad weather
  High point on North Face of NW Ridge.

  Two days lost due to animals stealing food from base camp. The two Sherpas had to go back to Hongde to get more food.


expid: ANN196303
peakid: ANN1
year: 1996
route1: S Face (Bonington rte)
nation: France
leaders: Chantal Mauduit
sponsor: Adonis Expedition to Annapurna I
countries: Spain
bcdate: 1996-09-26
smtdate: 1996-10-20
termdate: 1996-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to dangerous snow conditions
accidents: Nothing
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(26/09,4200m),ABC(01/10,4800m),Biv1(09/10,5400m),Biv2(19/10,6100m),Biv3(20/10,6600m),xxx(20/10,6600m)

routememo:
  BC  at normal site from South Face BC
  ABC just before glacier
  Biv on glacier
  C2  on small saddle on South Face
  C3  on South Face
  High point on South Face.

  1 Oct no snow at ABC, 2 Oct 1/2-meter new snow fall and left ABC for BC. Very bad weather for few days. 10th Oct left gear at 2nd biv site on 10th Oct and down to BC. 18th to ABC, 19th to 6100m and 20th went to 6600m but didn't like danger of route: too many mushrooms so 21st to ABC and 22nd to BC and climb finished. Even glacier very dangerous.


expid: ANN396301
peakid: ANN3
year: 1996
route1: SE Pillar
nation: USA
leaders: Alex Lowe
sponsor: Annapurna III South Pillar Expedition
bcdate: 1996-09-14
termdate: 1996-10-10
termnote: Abandoned at 4500m due to deep dangerous snow
othersmts: Acclimatized to 7200m on W Ridge of Annapurna IV
campsites: BC(14/09,3300m),ABC(21/09,4500m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Himalayan Treks (Him Treks)
routememo:
  BC  below Machhapuchhare BC
  ABC still on grass in valley.

  To acclimatize, since would have gone up pillar alpine-style on Annapurna III, went up W Ridge of Annapurna IV from south to 7200m and got stuck in snow cave, spent a week in it when heavy snowfall made it too dangerous to move. Now waist-deep snow at ABC. Down to BC where it rained whole next week with torrential rain some nights. About 8th Oct went to ABC and saw too much snow around for safe attempt on SE Pillar so decided on 10th to abandon climb.

  Never got on to mountain.


expid: ANN496305
peakid: ANN4
year: 1996
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Karl Gabl
sponsor: DAV Summit Club Annapurna IV Expedition
countries: Germany
bcdate: 1996-10-09
smtdate: 1996-10-12
termdate: 1996-10-16
termnote: Abandoned at 4650m due to illness and bad weather
campsites: BC(09/10,3400m),ABC(12/10,4650m),xxx(12/10,4650m)
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  C1 only by Fankhauser and Schoenwald with other DAV Team; Germans led by Mlynarczyk to their C1 at 5300m. High point at ABC.

  1. HA sickness: expedition leader Dr. Karl Gabl and Thomas Klimmer 
  2. 13 Oct in ABC (4600m)
  3. Common descent all the other members from ABC to Hongde on 15 Oct
  4. Ascent Dr. Schoenwald and Horst Fankhauser to ABC on 17 Oct
  5. Decision that climb will be abandoned from Dr. Schoenwald and Mr. Fankhauser
     on 24 Oct
  6. Decision from the members Mr. and Mrs. Horschlager, Mr. Stuefer, Miss 
     Katstaller and Mr. Walser (trekking from Hongde to Pokhara).

  Fankhauser and Schoenwald joined the other DAV expedition and reached 5300m. The rest went trekking. Reached Pokhara via Namun La and then went to Ghorepani.

accidents:
  Gabl and Klimer had problems associated with AMS and so left 13th Oct; all others had stomach problems probably due to the snowmelt water


expid: ANN196302
peakid: ANN1
year: 1996
route1: N Face (Dutch Rib) (to 6150m)
route2: N Face (French rte) (to 6400m)
route3: NW Ridge (to 7200m)
nation: Belgium
leaders: Pascal Debrouwer
sponsor: Annapurna Belgium Himalayan Expedition 1996
countries: Austria
approach: Helicopter->BC
bcdate: 1996-09-22
smtdate: 1996-10-15
termdate: 1996-10-17
termnote: Abandoned on 18 Oct due to lack of strength
accidents: Duchesne bad diarrhea
agency: Potala Trekking
campsites:
  BC(22/09,4200m),C1(24/09,5000m),C2(25/09,5700m),TempC3(12/10,6000m),C3(14/10,6500m),xxx(15/10,7200m)

routememo:
  C1 at normal site
  C2 slightly below C2 normal site
  Temp C3 old French route
  C3 at Pole's "C3" on NW Ridge route
  High point at NW Ridge.

  First attempted Dutch Rib and reached gained only 200m on rib because of unstable, deep snow, wind slab; abandoned that line at 6150m on 11 Oct. 12 Oct removed equipment from this line and tried old French route and tried to put camp in it but no place to pitch so C3 at foot of this route at 6000m (stayed here only 1 night).
   
  13th attempted to go to summit in alpine-style (Pascal with Tukten and Dawa Sherpas) reached 6400m in 6 hours and snow bad and ice pieces falling and very windy; returned to C2 removing temporary C3 as they descended. 

  14th Pascal to C3 pitched by Polish team and joined them (with 2 Sherpas carrying for him but descending) on NW Ridge for new route and 15th to 7200m and down to BC because not feeling strong (arrived BC 10:30 pm). 

  17th Pascal and Fabrice to C1 in evening. Pascal down from C1 at 11:45 pm and [Fabrice] reached Poles C3 in fresh snow covering track and wind; arrived C3 at 6:00 am and very tired and retreated to below BC; last to leave were Fabrice & Pascal. 

  NW Ridge possible to big wall starting at 7500m; this wall looked almost impossible but Poles still trying to scale it.

  Duchesne inexperienced climber.


expid: MANA96301
peakid: MANA
year: 1996
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Kiyoshi Ishii
sponsor: Tokyo Alpine Club Manaslu Expedition
ascent1: 51st,54th,55th
approach: Helicopter->Samagaon
bcdate: 1996-08-29
smtdate: 1996-09-27
smttime: 1115
termdate: 1996-10-07
campsites: BC(29/08,5000m),ABC(02/09,5500m),C1(07/09,6300m),C2(12/09,7100m),C3(26/09,7650m),Smt(27-28,30/09)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C2 at Col
  C3 at plateau.

  30th Sept later start from C3 (10:00 am) because of strong wind earlier. Arikawa and Mimura caught up with Konishi at 7900m who was descending but very very tired. They too very tired & continued down together but later (9:30 pm) Mimura and Konishi decided to biv at 7800m while Arikawa reached C3 - biv 5-10m apart. Mimura slept 4-5 hours and at 2:30 am woke up and found Konishi who apparently had gone up; Konishi still alive but in bad condition. Mimura went to find good place to biv but could not find Konishi again plus Mimura also in bad shape and maybe he too very confused. On 1 Oct Pemba Tshering up from C1 and found Mimura standing like a statue (far from C3 but viable from there) at 3:00 pm. Search for Konishi 1 & 2 Oct produced no result.

  * 27 Sept - 1st on top were Japanese; next Italians last Koreans; 28th and 30th no one else
  ** Dhanjeet (Kancha) Tamang, 38 Makalu village - 1st 8000m summit
  One has frostbitten fingers

  Report of exped:
  27 Sept - Ishikawa, Nima Dorje and Tsering Dorje to summit 
  28 Sept - Sugiyama, Dhanjeet and Pemba Norbu to summit
  30 Sept - Konishi summit 5:30 pm
            Arikawa + Mimura at 6:40 pm without oxygen

  While descending from summit they met Konishi sitting at 7900m about 10:00 pm, we all very tired and about to die and planned to do bivouac, Konishi looked very tired with oxygen. Arikawa himself decided to descend. It was early morning of 1st Oct. He found other Japanese Manaslu Expedition tent at C3. He went there. He was also so tired. Mimura got down telling to Konishi. He did biv about 2:00 am of 1st Oct. Early morning he went back to look for Konishi but he was not there. He himself was so tired.

  1st Oct - Mimura, Arikawa, Pemba Dorje in C3
  2nd Oct C3 - C2 Mimura, Arikawa, Pemba
  3rd Oct C2 - C1 6300m

  Due to heavy snowfall about 5 feet they could not move down, the track was blocked and closed without sufficient food. They stayed in C5 for 3 days (4-6 Oct). 

  7 Oct Mimura, Arikawa, Pemba Sherpa came back to KTM about 1:00 pm from the altitude of 6100m.

  On 30th Sept nearly morning of 1 Oct Mimura, Arikawa, Konishi were together at the altitude of about 7900m at about 2:30 am. Due to darkness they could not find him.

  Since 30 Sept Konishi was missing. He was disappeared when they separated at altitude 7900m.

accidents:
  Mimura slight frostbite 1 finger; Ishii left expedition 21 August in KTM to return home because of high blood pressure; Konishi disappeared


expid: MANA96303
peakid: MANA
year: 1996
route1: NE Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Sergio Martini
sponsor: Italian Manaslu Expedition 1996
ascent1: 52nd,56th
bcdate: 1996-09-10
smtdate: 1996-09-27
smttime: 1130
termdate: 1996-10-02
campsites: BC(10,24/09,4900m),C1(18/09,5800m),C2(23/09,6600m),C3(26/09,7400m),Smt(27/09,13/10)
accidents: 1 Sherpa very slight frostbite; nothing else to 2nd Oct
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  25 Sept summit party of 3 successful Italians and Ang Thile Sherpa going to C3 but stopped that night at North Col because of strong winds and next Ang Thile said he had frostbite and went down, while Italians went to top. 1st on summit on 27th were Ishikawa and 2 Sherpas (11:15 am) and then Italians, Korean + his Sherpa (Ngati). Italians started for top 200m lower than other going to top on 27th route not very difficult but very dangerous with enormous serac overhang in one place.

  2 Oct Benedetti, Campagna, Martina and Carral left BC to return to KTM while other 5 remained to try for top; had arrived BC 24 Sept and plan to leave Nepal 29 Oct so will return to KTM maybe late as 28 Oct. Favre is leader of this party, whose jobs preventing their coming earlier while Martini and 2 others summiters finished only (Carral arrived with Favre party but left because of bronchitis).


expid: MANA96304
peakid: MANA
year: 1996
route1: NE Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Um Hong-Gil
sponsor: Manaslu 1996 Korean Expedition
ascent1: 53th
bcdate: 1996-09-12
smtdate: 1996-09-27
smttime: 1130
termdate: 1996-09-30
campsites: BC(12/09,4700m),C1(19/09,5500m),C2(20/09,6400m),C3(26/09,7500m),Smt(27/09)
accidents: Nothing except 1 Sherpa slipped 100m with snow avalanche but not hurt
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 100-200m higher than other teams.

  Strong wind on summit day. Um and Ngati lift C3 at 3:30 am on 27 Sept for summit. 5:00 am they overtook elderly Japanese, Ishikawa and 2 Sherpas. 10:00 am 3 Italians caught up with Um and Ngati and all 5 went to top together at 11:30 am (Japanese had arrived at top 11:15 am). Was sure he reached very highest point, much snow on summit.


expid: MANA96302
peakid: MANA
year: 1996
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Takao Miyashita
sponsor: Club La Neige Manaslu Expedition
bcdate: 1996-09-09
smtdate: 1996-10-12
termdate: 1996-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to lack of time
agency: Above the Clouds
campsites:
  BC(09/09,4800m),ABC(12/09,5400m),C1(18/09,5850m),C2(23/09,6500m),C3(26/09,6900m),C4(12/10,7600m),xxx(12/10,7600m)

routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C3 at North Col
  C4 just on plateau
  High point at C4.

  30 Sept to 5 Oct 2m snow at base camp from daily new snowfall. Slept in C4 on 12 Oct but 13th down to BC in one day because no more time. Miyashita skied down from 7300m to BC on 13 Oct, windy day.

  Oizumi left team early because of birth of a son.


expid: MANA96306
peakid: MANA
year: 1996
route1: NE Face
nation: UK
leaders: Jonathan Wakefield
sponsor: British Police Himalaya Expedition
bcdate: 1996-09-20
smtdate: 1996-10-13
termdate: 1996-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to high winds
accidents: Moti Lal Tamang serious altitude sickness
agency: Atlas
campsites:
  BC(20/09,4800m),ABC.Deposit(23/09,5100m),C1(25/09,5700m),C2(09/10,6800m),C3(13/10,7600m),xxx(13,19/10,7600m)

routememo:
  ABC occasionally slept in
  High point at C3.

  Bad snow weather after C1 installed slowed team's progress seriously; and again after C3 occupied in 13th, strong winds all night, so down next day. Another summit bid. 19th from C3 went up very briefly and then sirdar Moti Lal Gurung sick and had to get him down.

  1 Nepali "Sherpa", Moti Lal Gurung


expid: MANA96307
peakid: MANA
year: 1996
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Christian Peronne
sponsor: Canigou Manaslu Expedition
countries: Andorra, France, Spain
bcdate: 1996-09-25
smtdate: 1996-10-12
termdate: 1996-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(25/09,4700m),C1(26/09,5600m),C2(29/09,6400m),xxx(12/10,7500m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  High point at start of plateau.

  29 Sept people stayed in C2 2 nights and returned to BC on 1 Oct; snowfall 5 nights and 4 days non-stop and avalanche close to base camp 7 Oct with much wind from it. Now very dangerous to go up. On 8 Oct 4 members waiting in BC to bring down gear or try for top if weather good. 12th summit push to 7300-7500m by Iman Gurung with Roge. No C3 made because other Sherpas did not carry up supplies in deep snow. Had already found C2 buried in snow and had to put up new tent there. Not possible to reach summits without making C3 first. 12th Oct summit bid made from C2 and they returned to C2 and then on down and climb finished. Helicopters from Samagaon to KTM arranged for 16 Oct. 

  Note: 5 Nepalis instead of Sherpas above BC.


expid: KGUR96301
peakid: KGUR
year: 1996
route1: W Face-SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jean Annequin
sponsor: Atalante Kang Guru Expedition
countries: Belgium
approach: Koto Chhacha->Meta
bcdate: 1996-10-24
smtdate: 1996-10-30
termdate: 1996-11-02
termnote: Abandoned on 30 Oct due to avalanche
campsites: BC(24/10,4200m),C1(29/10,5300m),xxx(30/10,6000m)
accidents: Nothing serious but avalanche hit team
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  BC east of Meta in rock valley
  C1 on West Face under seracs
  High point at SW Ridge.

  30 Oct up to pitch C2 at 6100m but at 100m below it, big avalanche hit all climbers and carried them down 100m. This put end to climb. Contraine buried by avalanche and only gloved hand could be seen; she was dug out quickly and not hurt. Not wise to continue with snow and wind and danger of future avalanching.


expid: MANA96305
peakid: MANA
year: 1996
route1: NE Face
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Josef Simunek
sponsor: Himalaya 8000 Manaslu 1996 Expedition
approach: By helicopter->Samagaon
bcdate: 1996-09-15
smtdate: 1996-10-01
termdate: 1996-10-10
termnote: Abandoned on 3 Oct due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(15/09,4800m),C1(21/09,5700m),xxx(01/10,7100m)
agency: Nepal Trans Himalayan Explorer
routememo:
  BC same as others
  High point at North Col.

  No members reached 7100m because heavy snowfall stopped progress when they were acclimatized well and ready to climb above C1. Planned to occupy C2 at 7100m. 8 tents destroyed by avalanches and very deep new snow.


expid: NAMP96301
peakid: NAMP
year: 1996
route1: Central Couloir of S(SW) Face-N Ridge up; W Ridge down
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Roman Robas
sponsor: Slovenian Three Peaks Expedition 1996 to Api, Bobaye and Nampa
ascent1: 2nd
bcdate: 1996-10-16
smtdate: 1996-11-03
smttime: 0950
termdate: 1996-11-09
othersmts: Climbed Api Main (APIM-963-01) and Bobaye (BOBA-963-01)
campsites: BC(16/10,3650m),Smt(03/11)
agency: Wilderness Experience
primid: APIM96301
routememo:
  Jost & Meznar left BC 31 Oct, rested and cooked at depot at about 4200m. Started from about 4200m at 6:00 pm and climbing began at 10:00 pm just above long crevasse at 4500m, climbed ice couloir: 2 hours to climb to 4800m in 50-degree couloir, then 9 hours for next 400m very steep (85 degree) section of couloir. Rested 4 hours after top of this couloir on rocks at 5500m on a ridge. After 3 more hours slept from 6:00 pm on 1 Nov at first biv at 5600m. Route was central couloir South/SW Face to ridge to left of top of central couloir. 2 Nov 10:00 am started up without tent because no place above for one, slept at 6300m, which reached at 6:00 pm. 3 Nov Jost left biv at 6:00 am and Meznar at 7:00 am. Meznar left small deposit at 6450m because planned to descend West Ridge (Japan 1972 spring route) and here probably joined Japanese route rear ridge and up to top at 9:50 am. 20 minutes on top in good weather and down to depot, rested and down West Ridge (briefly on North Face) and 5800m where found Japanese piton and rope, to biv at 8:00 pm at 4800m on rock below West Ridge's Col. 4 Nov to BC.


expid: BOBA96301
peakid: BOBA
year: 1996
route1: W Face-NW Ridge-NW Face up; W Pillar-W Face down
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Roman Robas
sponsor: Slovenian Three Peaks Expedition 1996 to Api, Bobaye and Nampa
ascent1: 1st
bcdate: 1996-10-16
smtdate: 1996-11-02
smttime: 1300
termdate: 1996-11-09
othersmts: Climbed Api Main (APIM-963-01) and Nampa (NAMP-963-01)
campsites: BC(16/10,3650m),Smt(02/11)
achievment: New or unclimbed routes; 1st attempt on Bobaye
agency: Wilderness Experience
primid: APIM96301
routememo:
  One BC for all 3 mountains, but separate depots, which were used also to study routes but not really used as ABC's - climbed 3 mountains, simultaneously after 1 week's snowfall and wind delayed attempts. 

  Bobaye: start of climb at 4300m on West Face: 31 Oct Humar, Jernej and 2 Sherpas from BC to depot/ABC on moraine at 4300m (not same place as 4300m shown in photo). Jernej and 2 Sherpas wanted to climb couloir on south side of West Face and around to East Face but reached only 4700m at bottom of couloir when one Sherpa sick and other didn't like snow, so attempt halted since Sherpas were carrying tents etc; this was on 1 Nov. 

  Humar alone on 1 Nov at 2:00 am started up, crossed glacier on hands & knees in deep snow here and fearful of crevasses; into small diagonal couloir when in not hurry because 80 degrees in couloir waterfall ice coming down; then traverse on West Face towards NW Ridge where wanted to biv but took too long in deep soft snow; at 3:00 pm made biv at 5500m under seracs but in ice cave; 2 Nov started 5:30 am, reached the NW Ridge and over on to NW Face's mixed terrain of ice and rock, arrived at rock band at about 6500m, then reached Col between Middle Summit and Main Summit to north of Middle Summit; finally on North Ridge for last 150 linear meters (30-40 vertical meters) to top at 1:00 pm; 2 Nov made photos and stayed 20 minutes in clear weather but wind blowing snow horizontally and very cold in descent came down West Pillar, not NW Face, across rock band and returned to West Face and slept again in 5500m biv (arrived at 4:00 pm); had taken biv tent, food for 2 days and stove up to top, not knowing how quickly could reach summit. Down to BC 3 Nov. Most difficult part was NW Face - in descent avoided waterfall's ice & sunshine so made different route in this area. His first solo climb.


expid: CHOY96312
peakid: CHOY
year: 1996
route1: W Ridge/Face from N
nation: Poland
leaders: Jacek Berbeka
sponsor: Stages & Expeditions Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 214
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1996-09-14
smtdate: 1996-09-23
smttime: 1000
campsites: BC(14/09),ABC(18/09,5600m),Biv1(20/09,6200m),Biv2(21/09,7000m),Smt(23/09)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Berbeka established no fixed camps above ABC. Left 2nd bivouac at 3:00 am on 23rd reached top about 10:00 am with Russians & Koreans.


expid: CHOY96308
peakid: CHOY
year: 1996
route1: W Ridge/Face
nation: France
leaders: Pierre Mahenc
sponsor: Stages & Expeditions Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 221,227
countries: Spain, Switzerland
bcdate: 1996-09-09
smtdate: 1996-09-27
campsites: BC(09/09),ABC(11/09,5600m),C1(16/09,6300m),C2(26/09,7050m),C3(30/09,7450m),Smt(27/09,01/10)
accidents: Arnold slight frostbite in 2 fingers
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  1 Oct bad weather (strong wind and clouds) on 1 Oct but reached flags left by earlier teams. 27th Sept very nice view of Everest, Kangchenjunga. "Hard work" climbing up, making camp coming down, up again - but technically not difficult at all except at 2 steep places where ropes fixed.

  This was Kancha Nuru's second ascent of Cho Oyu.


expid: CHOY96315
peakid: CHOY
year: 1996
route1: W Ridge/Face
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Jiri Novak
sponsor: International Expedition Cho Oyu
ascent1: 230,231
countries: Italy, Slovakia
bcdate: 1996-09-15
smtdate: 1996-10-09
smttime: 1930
termdate: 1996-10-13
campsites: BC(15/09),ABC(19/09,5600m),C1(22/09,6200m),C2(29/09,7000m),C3(30/09,7400m),Smt(09-10/10)
agency: Everest Adventure
routememo:
  9 Oct Becak left C3 11:00 am; on top 7:30 pm; biv at 7700m 9:00-10:00 pm; 10 Oct reached C3 at 9:00 am in normal condition, but 12:30 pm left C3 with Mirijovsky and one minute (30m) from C3 Becak collapsed, dead. Becak was only person to summit on 9 Oct. 

  10th Otta left C3 10:30 am, on top and returned to C3 7:30 pm.

  * 1 Tibetan to C1 instead of Sherpas.


expid: CHOY96304
peakid: CHOY
year: 1996
route1: W Ridge/Face
nation: UK
leaders: Henry Todd
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 220
countries: Poland, USA
bcdate: 1996-09-06
smtdate: 1996-09-27
campsites: BC(06/09),ABC(09/09,5600m),C1(13/09,6200m),C2(19/09,7100m),C3(26/09,7450m),Smt(27/09)
accidents: Nothing
achievment: Mark Pfetzer youngest Cho Oyu summiter to date
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  "Sherpa" summiters:
    Jyamyong Bhote, 27 Jan 68, Hungjung village, Makalu area, 1st 8000er
    Pemba Dorje Sherpa, born 1961


  C Boskoff - 23 June 2001

  Keith Boskoff and Raymond Dorr used oxygen from C3 to top and perhaps all the way to C3; no others used any oxygen.


expid: CHOY96313
peakid: CHOY
year: 1996
route1: W Ridge/Face from N
nation: Spain
leaders: Oriol Ribas
sponsor: Spaniards & Andorrans to Cho Oyu
ascent1: 232
countries: Andorra
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1996-09-14
smtdate: 1996-10-10
termdate: 1996-10-13
campsites: BC(14/09),ABC(18/09,5600m),C1(20/09,6200m),C2(21/09,7000m),C3(02/10,7400m),Smt(10/10)
accidents: Duro-Arajol's frostbitten fingers; Sanchez's did not acclimatize, was sick and left BC on 16 Sept
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  3 Oct summit attempted but weather bad and Ms Duro-Arajol's fingers got frostbitten. Reached 7800m with Rafols and Toras from Cadiach's expedition and then down to ABC.

  This party did not really have a leader, but Ribas took leading role.


expid: CHOY96316
peakid: CHOY
year: 1996
route1: W Ridge/Face
nation: France
leaders: Dominique Marquis
sponsor: French Cho Oyu Expedition 96
bcdate: 1996-09-17
smtdate: 1996-09-29
termnote: Abandoned on 3-4 Oct due to weather and lack of time
campsites: BC(17/09),ABC(19/09,5600m),C1(23/09,6200m),C2(24/09,7000m),xxx(29-30/09,7000m)
agency: Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
routememo:
  To rest after C2 made, then up to make C3 but slept in C2 2 nights waiting for good weather (bad snow & wind) - tents broken from winds.


expid: CHOY96320
peakid: CHOY
year: 1996
route1: W Ridge/Face from N
nation: Italy
leaders: Guido Lisignoli
sponsor: C.I.S.M. Expedition to Cho Oyu
approach: Lhasa->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1996-09-20
smtdate: 1996-09-28
termnote: Abandoned on 2 Oct due to winds & lack of acclimatization
campsites: BC(20/09),ABC(22/09,5600m),C1(25/09,26,6200m),xxx(28-29/09,6800m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  On 28 or 29 Sept Lisignoli and Tam tried to establish C2 but turned back at 6800-6900m because of winds and they were not acclimatized (had come to BC from Lhasa after flight from KTM to Lhasa).

  1 Nepalese cook to bring down gear.


expid: CHOY96301
peakid: CHOY
year: 1996
route1: W Ridge/Face from N
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Cho Oyu Expedition 1996
ascent1: 210,211,218,222
countries: Ireland, Israel, Japan, UK, USA
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC (Left Ktm 22 Aug)
bcdate: 1996-08-26
smtdate: 1996-09-20
smttime: 1205
termdate: 1996-09-30
campsites: BC(26/08),ABC(01/09,5700m),C1(09/09,6400m),C2(15/09,7100m),C3(19/09,7450m),Smt(20-21,27-28/09)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Tsuzuki showed no elation and took photos when she reached summit on 27th Sept. Brice and Tsuzuki (Stock and MacDonald who turned back at 7600m or less because no motivation by Stock) left C3 5:00 am and on top at 10:00 am (Brice) and 10:30 (Tsuzuki); Brice waited for her. Brice skied down from summit to 7500m.

  Sherpas:
    Danuru Sherpa, 1973, Namche, 1st 8000er
    Karsang = Ang Rita's son
    Lobsang Temba from Khumjung
    Chuldin, ex-Namche/Zorak

  Every day cold and windy. Danuru got to true top, found bamboo wand, saw Everest and Rongbuk, went down, got Morrow and up again to same spot in white out. 28th these and Barnicott and Kieren left C3 at 3 am, Barnicott reached 7900m, down to meet Kieren who ascending too slowly and Barnicott turned him around at 7800m. Morrow fell 30m but not hurt. 

  Brice (wearing Walkman) shot at on 8th Sept by young Chinese border guard 5 times while Brice walking towards BC, which was a long way from PLA's camp; finally recognized by PLA.


expid: CHOY96314
peakid: CHOY
year: 1996
route1: W Ridge/Face
nation: France
leaders: Rene Tomio
sponsor: French On Cho Oyu
bcdate: 1996-09-14
smtdate: 1996-10-07
termdate: 1996-10-12
termnote: Abandoned on about 10 Oct due to poor weather (and lack of strength)
campsites: BC(14/09),ABC(18/09,5600m),C1(22/09,6200m),C2(7000m),xxx(07-08/10,7000m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Girod & Jean-Pierre Tomio reached C2 twice but no higher.

  * Tibetan porter 1 above BC instead of Sherpa.


expid: CHOY96317
peakid: CHOY
year: 1996
route1: W Ridge/Face
nation: France
leaders: Luc Nicolino
sponsor: French Tibet Expedition to Cho Oye
bcdate: 1996-09-17
smtdate: 1996-09-27
termnote: Abandoned on 5 Oct due to bad weather
campsites: BC(17/09),ABC(19/09,5700m),C1(22/09,6400m),C2(25/09,7000m),xxx(27/09,02/10,7350m)
accidents: The two female members: one had bad stomach, the other tired of climb
agency: Alpine Asian Treks
routememo:
  Dehlinger & Uginet left two weeks earlier - 27 Sept

  When bad weather cleared up after almost a week of waiting they had run out of time.


expid: CHOY96311
peakid: CHOY
year: 1996
route1: W Ridge/Face from N
nation: Poland
leaders: Zbigniew Krol
sponsor: Polish Himalaya Expedition Cho Oyu 1996
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1996-09-13
smtdate: 1996-10-03
termdate: 1996-10-15
termnote: Abandoned on 10 Oct due to health reasons for two got tired
campsites: BC(13/09,15,5700m),C1(18/09,6200m),C2(23/09,7050m),C3(02-03/10,7500m),xxx(03,09/10,7500m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Two times in C3. 2nd time one week later (on 9 Oct - only Chlebosz); only Chlebosz was fit afterwards and he did not want to climb alone.


  Valiev - 21 Oct 96

  According to Valiev, leader of Kazakh-Japanese team, this team saw Czech die on Novak's Czech expedition and this upset them and stopped their motivation.


expid: CHOY96305
peakid: CHOY
year: 1996
route1: W Ridge/Face from N
nation: Canada
leaders: Helen Sovdat
sponsor: Canadian Cho Oyu
ascent1: 228
countries: New Zealand
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1996-09-07
smtdate: 1996-10-01
termdate: 1996-10-07
campsites: BC(07/09,4900m),ABC(10/09,5500m),C1(6400m),C2(7100m),C3(7400m),Smt(01/10)
achievment: 1st Canadian women to summit
agency: None
routememo:
  Went to BC and returned to Kathmandu with OTT expedition led by Kekus, but were independent party above ABC with own gear and Sherpa.

  Nawang Phurba Sherpa: 28 years from Beding, this his first 8000er.


expid: CHOY96306
peakid: CHOY
year: 1996
route1: W Ridge/Face from N
nation: UK
leaders: Nikola Kekus
sponsor: OTT (Out There Trekking) Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 216,224,226
countries: Latvia, Mexico, Netherlands, S Africa, USA
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1996-09-07
smtdate: 1996-09-25
termdate: 1996-10-07
campsites: BC(07/09,4900m),ABC(10/09,5500m),C1(13/09,6400m),C2(17/09,7100m),C3(26/09),Smt(25,29/09,01/10)
accidents: Wheelock frostbitten toes
achievment: 1st Mexican woman
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  McDermott to top from C3 rather than spend another night high on mountain. Left C2 at 2:45 am with Babu Tsering and Van Oldeneel, who soon abandoned his ski's and then turned back at 7900m because feet beginning to freeze. Fine views of Everest - all reached true summit.

  1 Oct summiters: 
    Kittleman 
    Pauls (separate team) 
    Babu Tsering - the well-known 8000m summiter  
    Pemba Tshering, Kharikhola, 36, his 1st 8000er
    Nima (no 2nd name), Kharikhola, 21, his 1st 8000er

  Weather changed just after this expedition summited; colder and strong winds.


expid: PASA96301
peakid: PASA
year: 1996
route1: W Ridge-NNW Ridge-S Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Tamotsu Ohnishi
sponsor: Osaka Alpine Club Pasang Lhamu Chuli Expedition 1996
ascent1: 3rd
bcdate: 1996-09-20
smtdate: 1996-10-19
smttime: 1200
termdate: 1996-10-21
othersmts: Climbed Jasemba Goth (JASG-963-01) on route to summit
agency: Cosmo Treks
campsites:
  BC(20/09,5600m),ABC(22/09,5800m),TempC1(24/09),C1(02/10,6700m),C2A(06/10,6250m),C2B(18/10,7100m),Smt(19/10)

routememo:
  BC  at Nangpa Glacier northeast on "p" on Schneider map
  ABC at bottom of West Ridge to Pt 6735m
  C1  at Pt 6735m
  C2A at col
  C2B on shoulder.

  Wanted to attempt South Ridge via Point 5720m but many avalanches on west side so made attempt here and moved north toward Nangpa La. From point 6735m moved south on ridge which was easy walk and made advance C2 at 6250m little north of Col (Col is east of "g" in Nangpa on map). Carried this camp to new C2 site on shoulder at 6900m south-southwest of summit.

  Route = West Ridge to another North Ridge (which is west of summit), south to snow plateau south of summit and thence up snow face from plateau at 7100m to top (7352m on Schneider map) which is Jasamba.

  Easy climb except above Advanced C2 for total 16 pitches where fixed rope.


expid: PASA96302
peakid: PASA
year: 1996
route1: W Ridge-NNW Ridge-S Face
nation: France
leaders: Michel Zalio
sponsor: Pasang Lhamu Montanges de la Terre Expedition
ascent1: 4th
countries: Italy
bcdate: 1996-10-07
smtdate: 1996-10-20
termdate: 1996-10-23
othersmts: Climbed Xixabangma (Yves Detry, Alberto Magliano)
campsites: BC(07/10,5200m),ABC(10/10,5700m),C1(13/10,6350m),C2(19/10,6600m),Smt(20/10)
accidents: Kitchen boy serious altitude sickness
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at true Kangchang on false Dzasampa of Schneider map
  ABC south of Nangpa La
  C1  on West Ridge
  C2  on North Ridge.

  First tried to gain col at bottom of ridge running from point 6735m. Thivel tried alone on 10 Oct and turned back 50m below Col (6600m) because not well acclimatized and reported to team this way too difficult (too many seracs) for this team. Decided to join Japanese route. Route difficult because of necessity to descend and then ascend final part of route to top. Got onto South Face at 7100m to avoid steep rock on North Face.

  Team used Japanese ropes by agreement, but Japanese removed ropes before French summited and this made descent even more difficult.


expid: DRAN96301
peakid: DRAN
year: 1996
route1: N Ridge from W
nation: Japan
leaders: Susumu Kobayashi
sponsor: Rolwaling Expedition of A.A.C.H. 1996 to Drangnag Ri
bcdate: 1996-09-29
smtdate: 1996-10-11
termdate: 1996-10-15
termnote: Abandoned on 11 Oct due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(29/09,4950m),TempC1(03/10,5200m),C1(08/10,5500m),xxx(11/10,6030m)
accidents: Kobayashi pulmonary edema
agency: Guides For All Seasons
routememo:
  BC at Drangnag
  Temporary C1 at below glacier
  C1 just northwest of point 5616m on Schneider Rolwaling map.
  High point at a small West Ridge.

  Fixed rope from 5500m (1 hour=2 km from BC on level terrain) to 6030m on very steep ridge and took time to fix it because had to dig deep to anchor it. High point was on a ridge from west leading to point 6320m and this small ridge junction with North Ridge. 

  Route is a good one and Yanagisawa would like to return to it when snow conditions are good.


expid: CHOY96302
peakid: CHOY
year: 1996
route1: W Ridge/Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Sang-Bae
sponsor: 1996 Korean Cho Oyu Paragliding Expedition
ascent1: 212
bcdate: 1996-08-27
smtdate: 1996-09-23
smttime: 1000
othersmts: Climbed Xixabangma (Park Jung-Hun)
campsites: BC(27/08,4900m),ABC(01/09,5800m),C1(05/09,6500m),C2(09/09,7050m),C3(16/09,7400m),Smt(23/09)
accidents: Nothing
achievment: 1st 8000m summit for Korean woman without oxygen
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Sherpas summiters:
    Chewang Dorje, 22 years, Thami, 1st 8000er (Xixa west top in Spring
      '94 with Austrian woman)
    Ang Nima, Taksindu, Cho Oyu 2 yrs before and Xixa (top)
    Ang Phurba, 37 years, Thami, 1st 8000er

  Much wind and very cold on summit and couldn't see mountains because of many clouds, but went 1 hour after reached plateau and found bamboo stick.

  2 parapented from C1 only.

  15 Oct - Vladimir Bachkirov, Russian team leader, saw and recognized Byun on summit without oxygen mask/apparatus.


expid: CHOY96303
peakid: CHOY
year: 1996
route1: W Ridge/Face
nation: Russia
leaders: Vladimir Bachkirov
sponsor: Russian Cho Oyu & Xixabangma Expedition
ascent1: 213
countries: Estonia, Georgia
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1996-08-27
smtdate: 1996-09-23
smttime: 1000
termdate: 1996-09-30
othersmts: Attempted Xixabangma
campsites: BC(27/08),ABC(31/08,5700m),C1(02/09,6400m),C2(08/09,7100m),C3(18/09,7400m),Smt(23/09)
achievment: Pure alpine style and 1st Russian team to make such an ascent of 8000m
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Very deep snow and with Russell Brice were first to arrive and make route. 

  Climbed Xixabangma after Cho Oyu; went to middle summit only; is now 1st Russian to reach two 8000m summits in same season.

  Xixabangma attempted by normal route and middle summit reached 10 Oct by Aleksei, Boris, Valeri, Sedusov, Gia, Evgeni, Nikolai.


expid: CHOY96307
peakid: CHOY
year: 1996
route1: W Ridge/W Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Ken Noguchi
sponsor: Noguchi Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 217
bcdate: 1996-09-07
smtdate: 1996-09-25
campsites: BC(07/09),ABC(09/09,5700m),C1(16/09,6400m),C2(23/09,7100m),C3(24/09,7400m),Smt(25/09)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Rolwaling Trek
routememo:
  No technical problems but "bit of difficulty for altitude." 1st 10 days at ABC much snowfall. Took 1/2 hour to go long way to highest point on plateau. Brice put bamboo stick at highest place on 20 Sept and this way Noguchi could finally find top.


expid: CHOY96318
peakid: CHOY
year: 1996
route1: W Ridge/Face from N
nation: Kazakhstan
leaders: Anatoli Boukreev
sponsor: Independent climber on Cho Oyu
ascent1: 215
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1996-09-17
smtdate: 1996-09-23
smttime: 1200
othersmts: Attempted Xixabangma (not to highest point)
campsites: BC(17/09),ChineseBC.Biv(18/09,5700m),Biv1(18/09,6400m),Biv2(19/09,7100),Smt(23/09)
agency: None
routememo:
  Boukreev left Chinese BC on 17th carrying all his gear at 5:00 pm (Chinese time); 1:00 pm 18th arrive at others ABC and slept in our tent. 18th afternoon left for C1, where bivouacked again. 19th to C2 and left gear there and down to 5700m same day. 20th rested. 21st afternoon up to C1 (3:00 pm Nepal time), 22nd C2 & 23rd to top; reached top at same time as Perchine, Vinogradski and Sedussov of Russian team (12:00-1:00 pm) and down to C2 and slept there; 24th to 5700m. 

  Left ABC with Bachkirov team (28-29 Sept) to Xixabangma, where he again climbed independently as on Cho Oyu. Started up from ABC 2 hours before 4th with Bachkirov and visability very bad and stopped while Russians went on up, Next day very big avalanche and down to ABC 5th - waited for avalanche to stop. 7th morning up to C2; 8th to C3 and very strong wind and to C2; 9th to top alone (not to highest top - avalanche danger too great).

  Boukreev was on Kazakh team's permit and travelled with them from KTM to Chinese BC, but from there was entirely independent of them carrying his own food, tent and other equipments - independent above ABC.


expid: CHOY96319
peakid: CHOY
year: 1996
route1: W Ridge/Face from N
nation: Kazakhstan
leaders: Kazbek Valiev
sponsor: Kazakhstan Cho Oyu Expedition 1996
ascent1: 229,233
countries: Japan
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1996-09-18
smtdate: 1996-10-06
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(18/09),ABC(22/09,5650m),C1(24/09,6300m),IntCmp(02/10,6600),C2(29/09,7050m),C3(04/10,7400m),Smt(06,14/10)

routememo:
  Wind destroyed 1 tent in C3 during night of 4 Oct. Gataoulin went to top 2nd time because he saw no reason to sit in ABC and is strong climber; even stronger wind on 14th.

  4th Oct C3 by Misumi, Oya, Biamakhanov and Farafonov; Malikov helped them carry luggage and to get acclimatization and down. 1 tent destroyed but 4 others reached 7600m only on 5th and stopped by no visability and down; 6th Oct then 4 started up again, reached 8050m at first "bump." 2 did not get to top because Oya had not used oxygen and Biamakhanov his guide; Oya sat down at 8150m (30 mins from summit), Biamakhanov gave him oxygen but no reaction from Oya, who did not speak, weak pulse and almost in coma so could not breath oxygen deeply; 2 summiters returned from top and Oya carried for 5 hours to 60m from C3 and died (probably cerebral edema). Now all Japanese left expedition (2 not strong at all).

  Valiev went only a bit above C1 while training Japanese clients.

accidents:
  Hiroshi Oya (Japanese) died on 6th Oct from probably cerebral edema; Ninomiya altitude sickness; no serious Kazakhs sickness


expid: KARY96301
peakid: KARY
year: 1996
route1: NNW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Tony Parr
sponsor: Magic Mountain 1996 - to Karyolung
approach: Dudh Kunda Glacier
bcdate: 1996-10-24
smtdate: 1996-10-28
termdate: 1996-10-30
termnote: Abandoned on 29 Oct due to clouds prevented seeing mountain
campsites: BC(24/10,4600m),xxx(28/10,5300m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Sundar Himali
routememo:
  BC on north side Dudh Kund Lake, southwest of Karyolung
  High point at foot of mountain east of Dudh Kund.

  29th Oct went to hill of 5700m of Karyolung and above Dudh Kunda Glacier to see feasible route but clouds settled in down to 4000m every morning (plus snowfall often) and could see nothing. Had earlier explored side valleys to 5300m maximum for approaches to mountain. Intention was to attempt NNW Ridge, but never got on to mountain really and did no actual climbing. Went trekking and few days later weather cleared beautifully.


expid: EVER96302
peakid: EVER
year: 1996
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lim Hyung-Chil
sponsor: 1996 Korea Everest Expedition
ascent1: 247
bcdate: 1996-08-22
smtdate: 1996-10-11
smttime: 1245
termdate: 1996-10-12
campsites: BC(22/08,5350m),C1(05/09,6050m),C2(09/09,6400m),C3(20/09,7300m),C4(10/10,7900m),Smt(11/10)
agency: Sarang San Treks
routememo:
  C1 at top of Khumbu Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Every day snowing and every day avalanche, no good conditions. 1st big avalanche on Lhotse Face 8 Sept to C2; 21 Sept ice cornice fell and was very heavy and killed 2 Sherpas and Frenchman Bouchon. 

  3rd day of 1st week Oct from between SW Face and Geneva Spur. Decided to wait for one summit bid, watching weather conditions carefully. 9 Oct from C2 to C3 Choi and Shino and Son H-A support member in C3; 10 Oct 3 Sherpas (summiters) from C2 4:00 am and summit members from C3 at 10:00 am and 2:30 pm Sherpas to col and 2 members 3:00 pm. 10 Oct at 11:00 pm get up at C4 and after food, 5 men started up 2:00 am 11 Oct and arrived S Summit 10:00 am to 10:30 am (Kipa last not well) in waist-deep snow and 2 members making route (Sherpas say not to climb because deep snow and route making difficult). On top Choi at 12:45 pm; 12:50 Panuru and Dawa Tamang, 1:15 pm Kipa. Returned South Col 4:30 pm, 2 Koreans first, 4:45 pm Panuru and Dawa Tamang and Kipa (Kipa supported by Tamang) at 5:30 pm. 12 Oct 2 men and Panuru to BC while Kipa and Tamang stop C2 because Kipa still not in good condition.


  Panuru Sherpa - 18 Aug 1997

  In ascent of Everest last Oct with Koreans saw legs of a body (rest in snow) at about 8500m but no body above, i.e., at bottom of Hillary Step, where there was very deep snow. We climbed the Step on its left side with great difficulty, but "we had to reach summit" and did.

accidents:
  Kipa 'no good condition' 8 days of summit time; 21 Sept avalanche from Lhotse killed Dawa (Salleri) & Lobsang Jangbu


expid: EVER96303
peakid: EVER
year: 1996
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Ralf Dujmovits
sponsor: Amical Alpin Mt Everest Trilogy 1996 to Everest, Lhotse & Nuptse
countries: Austria
bcdate: 1996-08-27
smtdate: 1996-10-03
termdate: 1996-10-13
termnote: Abandoned on 5 Oct due to heavy snowfall
othersmts: Climbed Nuptse (NUPT-963-01), Lhotse (permit, but not attempted)
campsites: BC(27/08,5350m),C1(29/08,6050m),C2(05/09,6450m),C3(11/09,7250m),xxx(03/10,7900m)
accidents: Steger fell and broke 2 ribs and wrist bone; only trauma on Everest
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  High point at South Col.

  Highest point by members was by Dujmovits on 1st October with Bernard Muller and Alain Hubert [French team] to fix ropes to 7700m (no Sherpas from these 2 teams) + Korean Sherpas carrying rope (German team's Sherpas were all related to Lobsang Jangbu and French Sherpas close to them). 2 Oct Dujmovits to BC, 3rd Oct Sherpas from all 3 teams up to C3 and Col. 4th very bad weather and that night heavy snowfall and Dujmovits decided that wise to stop climb.

  Japanese Hirofumi Konishi was on Germans climbing permit for Everest, but he was independent unit; he and Germans sometimes climbed together.


expid: NUPT96301
peakid: NUPT
year: 1996
route1: N Ridge/Pillar (UK 1979 rte)
nation: Germany
leaders: Ralf Dujmovits, Hans-Jochen Netzer
sponsor: Amical Alpin Mt Everest Trilogy 1996 to Everest, Lhotse & Nuptse
ascent1: 4th
bcdate: 1996-08-28
smtdate: 1996-09-17
smttime: 1330
termdate: 1996-10-13
othersmts: Attempted Everest (EVER-963-03), Lhotse (had permit, but not attempted)
campsites: BC(28/08,350m),C1(01/09,6000m),C2(03/09,6450m),C3(04/09,6800m),Smt(17/09)
accidents: Schloenvogt fell
achievment: 1st German ascents
agency: Thamserku Trekking
primid: EVER96303
routememo:
  BC at foot of Khumbu Icefall
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 at Western Cwm
  C3 at beginning of North Pillar.

  Climbed Scott's route. Heavy snowfall daily from 4th to 15th and avalanche danger great so had to wait for snow to stop. Arrived at C3 on 16th & went for top on 17th: only the two sumiters went for top. Left C3 at 2:30 am on 17th, on summit 1:30 pm; Ralf arrived C3 at 5:00 pm but Axel very slow in descent (due to altitude), got dark and snow started falling and no one knew where Axel was (Ralf only person in C3 that night and he tired and went to sleep in separate tent). 18th am Rackl with binoculars from C2 saw 30m from C3 something lying in snow - this was Axel, who had fallen and his hit his head. Axel brought to C2 on 18th, BC on 19th and KTM 20th. Left ankle and ribs broken and left fingers frostbitten.

  No further attempt on Nuptse following fatal avalanche on 21 Sept which killed 3 people going to South Col.


  Dujmovits - 26 Nov 96 (by phone)

  He is being strongly criticized in Germany for not staying with Schloenvogt in descent (but no criticism from Schloenvogt). Schloenvogt was descending much more slowly, facing the mountain, where Dujmovits moving faster, facing out. They had reached top of pillar and there Schloenvogt agreed Dujmovits should go ahead - both were exhausted on summit. Dujmovits returned to C3, made hot water for Schloenvogt and left it in his tent, then fell asleep in his own tent. There was no one in C3 in support of them because plan had been for Dujmovits and Schloenvogt to fix ropes on 17th and go for top on 18th when 2 other members would move up to C3 in support. But on 17th weather was fine and they suddenly decided to go for summit alpine-style.


expid: EVER96304
peakid: EVER
year: 1996
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hirofumi Konishi
bcdate: 1996-08-28
smtdate: 1996-09-21
termdate: 1996-10-11
termnote: Abandoned on 5 Oct due to heavy snowfall and avalanching
othersmts: Parchamo and Mera Peak for acclimatization
campsites: BC(28/08,5350m),C1(06/09,6050m),C2(07/09,6450m),C3(20/09,7250m),xxx(21/09,7800m)
accidents: Nothing except fatal avalanche
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  High point on Lhotse Face.

  Slow to go to C1 because took time to build BC. 21 Sept Konishi, Dawa, Lobsang Jangbu and Yves Bouchon going up Lhotse Face from C3 to reach South Col and breaking cornice produced avalanche that killed 3 of these men, but Konishi 15m above Bouchon and 10m above Dawa and Lobsang; Konishi hit only by side of avalanche, and did not get full force and managed to stay in place with fixed rope and with ice axe and thus saved himself, but for few minutes it seemed he couldn't breath because of ice inhaled from wind of avalanche. Konishi down to avalanche debris to search for other 3 while German doctor Dagmar down from C3 and 4 Koreans up from C2 to search. Lobsang never found. Konishi slept in C2 and 22nd joined fruitless search. 23rd down to BC and 25th to Pangboche Lama for memorial ceremony and to ask many questions such as whether to continue climb (answer better not). But still wanted to go up to top. 

  4 Oct German and French members and Konishi wanted to go up to C2, but wind strong and Sherpas didn't want to go up and so turned back in Icefall. 7 Oct 11:00 pm avalanche from Lho La and Lamas puja poles broken by it and heavy snowfall that day dumped much snow on mountain. 8 Oct to C2 to bring down gear but not to try for top. Wants to try Everest again.

  Konishi was on German's Everest climbing permit, but was independent though sometimes climbed with them.


expid: EVER96301
peakid: EVER
year: 1996
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Indonesia
leaders: Clara Sumarwati
sponsor: Putri Indonesian Everest Expedition
ascent1: 246
bcdate: 1996-08-20
smtdate: 1996-09-26
smttime: 1100
termdate: 1996-09-30
campsites: BC(20/08),ABC(26/08,6400m),C1(09/09,7000m),C2(22/09,7900m),C3(25/09,8200m),Smt(26/09)
accidents: Nothing serious
achievment: 1st Indonesian to summit
agency: Himalayan Sherpa Adventure
routememo:
  ABC as same as others
  C1  at North Col
  C2  just below North Ridge on face
  C3  on North Face, a little before ridge.

  26 Sept 1:00 am Clara and 5 Sherpas left last camp for summit. 2 Sherpas [Dawa and Chuwang] stopped at 8600-8700m together to await Clara's return. Clara and [other] 3 Sherpas went to top at 11 am. Kazi, Gyalzen and Ang Gyalzen returned to camp at 7900m to sleep at 2:00-3:00 pm. 27th to ABC. Clara got no sleep for 3 nights in ABC because body very tired. Climb difficult at Steps I & II and above because steep-ladder is there at 2nd Step - snow deep. Maybe Clara had edema in lungs on descent in ABC and BC. Basuki's oxygen finished at C2 so he did not go higher. 2 more Sherpas [Dawa and Chuwang] later same day to top.

  Sherpas:
    Kaji, Beding, Everest X3 before
    Gyalzen, Annapurna May 96
    Ang Gyalzen, Thami, Everest 
    Dawa Tshering, Thami, Everest X2
    Chuwang Nima, Thami, Everest X3 (arrived at top very soon afterwards)

  Clara reportedly used extremely heavy flow of oxygen (as much as 10 litres per minutes) and consumed one bottle in one hour; was seen staggering in a daze even so and had to be dragged by unhappy Sherpas to summit.

  26 Oct 1996 - South Africans have no doubt Clara and Sherpas reached summit; saw them above Second Step and no sudden descent.

  10 Jan 1997 - Clara very elusive, produced photo of summit that could have been taken anywhere.


  Letter from Ambar Corbridge - 27 October 2009

  In post monsoon, 26th September 1996 a young woman climber Miss Sumarwati from Indonesia is said to have achieved the summit of Mount Everest from North Col/North Ridge along with Sherpa Kaji, Sherpa Gyalzen, Sherpa Ang Gyalzen, Dawa Tshering and Sherpa Chuwang Nima. She has been recorded under the Indonesian expedition of which she was the leader.

  On her return to Indonesia, she was faced with critics and doubt, since she wasn't able to produce summit photographs. She alleges that Indonesia's regime (the President's son-in-law was a key person of official Indonesian Everest expedition under military and civilians climbers south side spring 1997) did burn negative photos and her collections. In effect she was unable to give a fully documented personal account of her climbing adventure and achievements.

  Spring 26th April 1997, the official Indonesian team finally put two men on top, Misirin and Asmujiono through South Col/South-east Ridge under Indonesian/
  Kazakhstan or Russian/Polish Expedition with guide Anatoli Boukreev, Sherpa Apa, Sherpa Dawa Nuru and Vladimir Bashkirov under the leader Edhie Wibowo.

  This created a media frenzy about who was actually the first summiter of Everest for Indonesian. Miss Sumarwati subsequently became withdrawn from public appearances due allegedly to possible intimidation from military regime in Indonesia. She was also in hiding during the uncertain political situation in the late 90's which led the fall of General Suharto. Throughout those periods and up to the present time, Miss Sumarwati has suffered depression and has been submitted into mental hospital at her home town, Jogjakarta, Central Java, Indonesia.


  Email from Ambar Corbridge - 27 Dec 2009

  The only claims from outside Indonesia that tell the doubt about Clara Sumarwati's 1996 North Col summit I have found from the All Women Philippines team 2007. They aimed to put the first ASEAN women on top of Everest actually over-ruled Miss Clara Sumarwati's claim as her nationality in fact from one of the countries on ASEAN.


expid: EVER96307
peakid: EVER
year: 1996
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: S Africa
leaders: Alexander Harris
sponsor: M E South African North Ridge Everest Expedition Autumn 1996
bcdate: 1996-09-05
smtdate: 1996-09-24
termdate: 1996-10-23
termnote: Abandoned on 14 Oct due to winds
campsites: BC(05/09,5200m),ABC(11/09,6500m),C1(20/09,7000m),xxx(24/09,13/10,7300m)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  High point at North Ridge.

  7300m reached about 24 Sept and 13 Oct; Anton, Disney and Harris first time, Harris alone second time. Both times defeated by wind.


expid: EVER96308
peakid: EVER
year: 1996
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Craig Calonica
sponsor: Ski Everest 96
countries: Germany, Yugoslavia
bcdate: 1996-09-13
smtdate: 1996-09-23
termdate: 1996-09-29
termnote: Abandoned on 22-23 Sept due to Sherpa disputes
campsites: BC(13/09,5200m),ABC(23-24/09,6400m),xxx(6400m)
accidents: Gejo serious cerebral edema; Calonica pneumonia
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at normal route's base
  ABC at normal route's base from east side of North Col
  High point on North Face.

  Did no climbing. Kazi Sherpa of Indonesian Everest expedition had fixed the route and attacked Calonica's Sherpas to prevent others climbing it. Calonica had to go to KTM with flu before reaching BC and when arrived late at BC found out about Sherpas attack. Flew to Lhasa and arrived BC on 13 Sept. Gejo descended to BC 15 Sept and very sick with cerebral edema and Calonica brought him Nyalam; was really out of his mind and had to tied up at BC - so Calonica now had lost more time. Kokta had gone up 100-200m from ABC towards North Col but no real climbing experience and slow acclimatizer so went home. Now Kazi threatened Calonica as well as his Sherpas; appeared to be maniac-depressive. Calonica went to Sherpa to telephone TMA in Lhasa but this ineffective and so late now, Sherpas fearful and only Calonica and his 2 Sherpas left to climb. Calonica never went above ABC so no not to lose right to apply payment to TMA to attempt in later season. Wants to return next summer to climb Mustang Ata and thence to Everest direct to ski it in August-October.

  12 Oct 96 - Henry Todd, who had long meeting with Calonica in KTM, explains Kazi's attack in Calonica's team: when Calonica was away, Kazi asked Calonica's Sherpas to carry loads when they were idle in his absence, they refused and quarrel resulted but no attack with knife - on his return to Everest, Calonica up berated Kazi and they also quarreled, but again no knife used.

  26 Oct 96 - South African team not to believe anything Calonica's says; they saw no attacks, heard of nothing from other people.


expid: LHOT96301
peakid: LHOT
year: 1996
route1: W Face
nation: Slovakia
leaders: Marcel Drobny, Vladimir Zboja
sponsor: Slovak Himalaya Expedition Lhotse
countries: Czech Republic
bcdate: 1996-09-11
smtdate: 1996-09-24
termdate: 1996-10-04
termnote: Abandoned on 1 Oct due to dangerous snow conditions
campsites: BC(11/09,5400m),C1(14/09,6050m),C2(19/09,6450m),C3(24/09,7360m),xxx(24/09,7450m)
accidents: Potocek altitude sickness
agency: Star Trek
routememo:
  C3 on West Face (pitched but never slept in)
  High point at West Face.

  Planned to have C4 above rock band but after great avalanche of 21 Sept killed 3 people on other teams, thought to make it new Geneva Spur with French and Germans from both Lhotse and Everest. Tried to go up above C3, saw couloir still full of snow; avalanche had come from above rock band in mid-face. Much snow fall and avalanching.


expid: EVER96305
peakid: EVER
year: 1996
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Vaclav Suchel
sponsor: Everest 1996
countries: Slovakia, UK
bcdate: 1996-08-29
smtdate: 1996-09-20
termdate: 1996-10-12
termnote: Abandoned on 9 Oct due to wind
campsites: BC(29/08,5200m),ABC(31/08,6400m),C1(05/09,7000m),C2(18/09,7600m),xxx(20/09,8200m)
accidents: Hlava bad altitude sickness; nothing else
agency: Trekking International
routememo:
  BC at road
  C1 at North Col
  C2 on North Ridge.
  High point on North Face (C3 site).

  C1->C2 time loss because of snow falling every day. On 20th "*Sherpas" dumped loads at C3 site and down to ABC having done their job. 22nd or 23rd attempted to reach C3 site and go for top from there, but reached no higher than 8000m, dumped more gear and retreated because of high winds. Next day makes part way to C6 and next day after that to 7700m (South African tent) and down. 2 days later and 1 day later more teams went up to 7600m and defeated by winds, "non stop all day roaring away." Then 4 days of snowfall and then daily more attempts ending at 7600m because of wind (except 1 member reached 8000m on 9th).

  * 2 Tamangs instead of Sherpas above BC.


expid: PUMO96307
peakid: PUMO
year: 1996
route1: SE Ridge/Face-E Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Christophe Lafaille
sponsor: French Pumori Expedition 1996
ascent1: 115
bcdate: 1996-10-31
smtdate: 1996-11-10
smttime: 1100
termdate: 1996-11-14
campsites: BC(31/10,5300m),ABC(02/11,5800m),C1(04/11,6200m),Smt(10/11)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Lafaille and Navarro tried for top 7 Nov and reached 7000m and then turned back because Navarro's toes getting slightly frostbitten. Ancrenaz also tried on 7 Nov, but stopped at 6700m when too cold. 

  Lafaille and Bonino on 12 Nov tried for top and reached 6600m and wind too strong.

  All members reached C1.


expid: PUMO96303
peakid: PUMO
year: 1996
route1: S Face/Buttress
nation: UK
leaders: Joe Simpson
sponsor: Pumori Southeast Buttress Expedition
bcdate: 1996-10-21
smtdate: 1996-11-04
termdate: 1996-11-06
termnote: Abandoned on 4 Nov due to Delaney's serious headache
campsites: BC(21/10,5300m),Biv(02/11,5700m),Biv(03/11,6100m),xxx(04/11,6150m)
accidents: Delaney serious headache; Tattersall chest infection
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  BC  near lake
  Biv right of rock buttress on South Face
  High point at South Face.

  Simpson and Delaney in alpine-style climb reached 6150m when Delaney got sick and down to BC on 4 Nov. 29 Oct Potter and Tattersall carried gear to about 5500m dumped it there and down because of Tattersall's chest infection, they left BC 31 Oct; Potter didn't like route.

  Simpson by phone: at 5950m rock buttress on South Face became impossible, so had to turn it on the right. Then Delaney got sick, Simpson didn't want to climb solo, so abandoned climb. Perhaps could have tried again later, but didn't care about doing so.


expid: PUMO96304
peakid: PUMO
year: 1996
route1: SE Face/Ridge-E Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Richard Haszko
sponsor: Pumori South Face Expedition
ascent1: 114
countries: Germany
bcdate: 1996-10-21
smtdate: 1996-11-08
smttime: 1130
termdate: 1996-11-09
campsites: BC(21/10,5300m),ABC(29/10,5700m),C1(01/11,6200m),Smt(08/11)
accidents: Nothing on mountain; Hartland altitude sickness before BC and arrived at BC at 27 Oct
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  BC near lake
  ABC at top of rock buttress of SE Face
  C1 at top of spur/narrow snow ridge of SE Face.

  On 6 Nov Hartland & Halliwell left BC, slept at ABC; 7th to C1; 8th at 5:30 am left for top, Halliwell got to East Ridge and 150 vertical meters below top and turned back because worried about windslab above while Hartland kept on with no problem despite some deep snow which had settled since Habeler had been there and turned back. On top at 11:30 am and returned to C1 at 3:30 pm with Halliwell. All members reached C1 but only Hartland and Halliwell went higher.


expid: PUMO96305
peakid: PUMO
year: 1996
route1: SE Ridge/Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Hajime Murota
sponsor: Dokkyo University Alpine Club Expedition 1996 to Pumori
bcdate: 1996-10-25
smtdate: 1996-11-03
termdate: 1996-11-06
termnote: Abandoned due on 5 Nov to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(25/10,5250m),C1(28/10,5600m),C2(03/11,6250m),xxx(03/11,6250m)
accidents: Murota altitude sickness
agency: Rolwaling Trek
routememo:
  Waited in C2 two days in C2 for snow fall to stop but didn't stop and so down to BC 5 Nov and climb finished.


expid: PUMO96306
peakid: PUMO
year: 1996
route1: SE Ridge/Face-N Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Peter Habeler
sponsor: Peter Habeler Pumori Expedition
bcdate: 1996-10-27
smtdate: 1996-11-01
termdate: 1996-11-03
termnote: Abandoned on 1 Nov due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(27/10,5400m),C1(29/10,5750m),xxx(01/11,7130m)
accidents: Schluga tooth infection
agency: Khumbu Himalayan Trekking
routememo:
  BC at higher normal site
  C1 at normal site 
  High point at north rounded face.

  Habeler to go to top on 30th but reached only 6000m because wind had blown a lot of snow saddle here. Down to BC same day - rest in BC. 1 Nov 4:00 am Habeler alone from BC to try for top again, reached C2 of Joe Simpson group at 6:00 am, got to saddle just after 9:00 am, but big avalanche had cleared snow from much of snow but not all of it; had to go around to north but deep snow here too; had to stop below top in this very deep snow because simply could not go further in deep soft snow and no safe way around it, so down to BC 1:15 pm. 

  Should perhaps have descended some distance and gone around to the south, but time restriction discouraged this.

  Schluga went to C1 on 29 Oct and down to BC on 30th.


expid: PUMO96302
peakid: PUMO
year: 1996
route1: SE Face/Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: William Crouse
sponsor: American Pumori Expedition
countries: Ireland
bcdate: 1996-10-18
smtdate: 1996-10-21
termdate: 1996-10-26
termnote: Abandoned on 25 Oct due to wind & snow
campsites: Bc(18/10,5500m),C1(21/10,5800m),C2(21/10,6250m),xxx(21/10,6250m)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  BC by upper lake
  C2 at crest of NE Ridge.

  If the weather's good and you're acclimatized it's a seven-day route. Crouse and 2 members went directly to C2 on 21st while 3 members slept at C1. 22nd all in C2 but this day it started to snow lightly with howling winds. 23rd and 24th all down to BC. Big tents at C2 totally buried by snow.


expid: AMAD96304
peakid: AMAD
year: 1996
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Roland Mattle
sponsor: Austrian Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 184,188,190
countries: Germany
bcdate: 1996-10-04
smtdate: 1996-10-17
smttime: 1415
termdate: 1996-10-22
campsites: BC(04/10,4580m),C1(10/10,5800m),C2(16/10,6020m),Smt(17,20-21/10)
accidents: Schweiger altitude sickness
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC above Mingbo
  C1 on SW Ridge
  C2 below normal site on col of SW Ridge.

  Very steep rocks above C1 so C2 put lower than normal because too difficult to go higher, especially with heavy rucksacks. 

  17th the summiters struggled through waist deep snow in 2-1/2 - 3 hours to gain 200m altitude; reached top at 2:15 pm  (left C2 at 6:00 am) as only summiters that day day; returned to C2 at 6:00 pm.

  On 20th was very cold and windy and took Hupfauers in one hour less time since snow not deep. 20th summiters slept that night in French-Equador team's C3 at about 6200m because strong winds; had to open route again and Sigi Hupfauer had back problem.

  21st summiters took only five hours from C2 to top; back to BC at 8:00 pm.

  Seven expeditions on mountain at same time; worked very well together and like big family.


expid: AMAD96311
peakid: AMAD
year: 1996
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Henry Todd
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Ama Dablam Expedition 1996
ascent1: 193,195,201
countries: Canada, New Zealand, USA
bcdate: 1996-10-19
smtdate: 1996-10-29
termdate: 1996-10-31
campsites: BC(19/10,4500m),C1(23/10,5800m),C2(28/10,6400m),Smt(29/10,04,09/11)
accidents: Walker cerebral edema on 31 Oct, went to Pangboche and up to top
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  No problems with route and smooth relations with other teams after dispute over use of various expeditions (especially Italians and English Canadians) ropes was solved by cash payments.


expid: AMAD96305
peakid: AMAD
year: 1996
route1: N Ridge up; SW Ridge down
nation: Austria
leaders: Walter Zoerer
sponsor: Mountain Guide Expedition to Ama Dablam
ascent1: 187
countries: Germany
bcdate: 1996-10-04
smtdate: 1996-10-19
termdate: 1996-10-24
campsites: BC(04/10,5080m),C1(11/10,5980m),Biv1(16/10,6350m),Biv2(17/10,6465m),Biv3(18/10,6700m),Smt(19/10)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 on North Ridge
  3 bivs on North Ridge.

  Divided into 2 groups and first reached top on 19th Oct. 2nd group decided not to try for top under powder snow conditions first team reported had been successful. 

  Climbed alpine-style for C1; light-weight expedition; descended SW Ridge because hardest part of route not fixed and impossible to descend it without ropes; also safer this way. Most difficult part between Bivs 1 and 3 and required an extra days climb; snow loose and above Biv 2 mushroom ridge. "So narrow and so steep, best ridges I ever saw anywhere in the world" (Huber); only 1/2-meter wide.


expid: AMAD96308
peakid: AMAD
year: 1996
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Giacomo Scaccabarozzi
sponsor: Ama Dablam 1996 Italian Expedition
ascent1: 191
bcdate: 1996-10-13
smtdate: 1996-10-21
termdate: 1996-10-24
campsites: BC(13/10,4600m),C1(16/10,5800m),C2(20/10,6300m),Smt(21/10)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Mingbo
  C1 on SW Ridge.

  22 Oct Cemmi and Barelli tried for top but weather changing (cloudy and next day started heavy snowfall which lasted for days) & turned back at 6000m.


expid: AMAD96306
peakid: AMAD
year: 1996
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Ramon Portilla Blanco
sponsor: Expedition Khumbu 1996 to Ama Dablam
bcdate: 1996-10-06
smtdate: 1996-10-16
termdate: 1996-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6650m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(06/10,4000m),C1(08/10,5650m),Biv(15/10,6200m),xxx(16/10,6650m)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Himalayan Sherpa Nepal
routememo:
  BC above Mingbo
  C1 on SW Ridge
  High point on SW Ridge.

  Portilla made summit bid from C1 on 15th Oct, reached 6200m and pitched small tent; 16th Oct took up tent and went to 6600-6650m climbing solo (no other climbers there that day). Snow very dangerous, "sugar" snow so down to BC at 2:00 pm; other 2 members had altitude problem and not above C1, which they had established 8th Oct.


expid: EVER80104
peakid: EVER
year: 1980
nation: Spain
leaders: Ricardo Cots Trullas
sponsor: Spanish Expedition to Everest 1980
countries: W Germany
othersmts: Attempted Lhotse (LHOT-801-02)
primid: LHOT80102
routememo:
  Spaniards (Catalans) had permit for Lhotse and Everest, but made no attempt on Everest. Leader was Cots.

  Spanish (Basques) Everest only summited. Leader was Lorente.

  Josep Montfort was the leader at the time of applying for permit in 1974, but did not come with the expedition.


expid: AMAD96312
peakid: AMAD
year: 1996
route1: NW Face
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Andrej Kecman
sponsor: Slovene Expedition Ama Dablam 1996
bcdate: 1996-10-22
smtdate: 1996-10-31
termdate: 1996-11-02
termnote: Abandoned at 5500m due to wind and icy conditions
othersmts: Island Peak (for acclimatization)
campsites: BC(22/10,4350m),ABC(30/10,4800m),xxx(31/10,5500m)
accidents: Kecman altitude sickness; Halilovic flu infection and altitude
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC  at Dingboche village
  ABC under West Face of North Ridge on east moraine of Duwo Glacier
  High point at 300m up on NW Face.

  1:00 am of 31st Oct Halilovic, Kosir and Mauri left ABC to climb Japanese route of NW Face but found rock was polished covered by thin ice. Halilovic returned at 5200m sick; climb finished because windy and surface condition not good and no sun on North Face. Kosin especially good ice climber.


expid: AMAD96303
peakid: AMAD
year: 1996
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Denis Etienne
sponsor: Ecuadorian-French Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 186 w/Swz
countries: Ecuador
bcdate: 1996-10-03
smtdate: 1996-10-19
termdate: 1996-10-21
campsites: BC(03/10,4600m),C1(10/10,5800m),Smt(19/10)
accidents: Etienne stomach trouble
achievment: 1st Ecuadorians to top
agency: Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
routememo:
  High point at normal C3 site just before the Dablam.

  3 men pitched camp at 6350m 14 Oct but never slept there and down to sleep in C1 and BC 15th. Mesias and Vallejo stayed on with Swiss after 18th Oct, hoping to go to top and still catch flight from KTM on 23rd. 

  Leiva left BC 6 Oct to go home; had planned only 8 days for climbing, based on experience in Ecuador but not possible in Nepal; had carried rope to 5600m but never reached C1. 

  Etienne got stomach trouble that prevented a summit attempt by him and others with him did not go up because route not yet open, snow dangerous and hoped to try again. But same situation prevailed and these 3 did not try a second time.

  Kobler - 29 Oct 96: Mesias and Vallejo to summit on 19th with Kobler party.


expid: AMAD96307
peakid: AMAD
year: 1996
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Karl Kobler
sponsor: Swiss Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 185,186,189
bcdate: 1996-10-06
smtdate: 1996-10-18
termdate: 1996-10-22
campsites: BC(06/10,4600m),C1(09/10,5800),C2(17/10,6250m),Smt(18-20/10)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  Bad weather sent people down 15th but again up on 17th. On 19th Ecuadorians, Mesias and Vallejo, climbed to top with Kobler party.

  1 Nepalese above BC.


expid: AMAD96315
peakid: AMAD
year: 1996
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Ryszard Pawlowski
sponsor: Patagonia Mountain Agency (PMA) Ama Dablam Expedition 1996
ascent1: 196,200,202
countries: Canada, USA
bcdate: 1996-10-28
smtdate: 1996-11-05
termdate: 1996-11-12
campsites: BC(28/10,4500m),C1(30/10,5700m),C2(05/11,6000m),C3(04/11,6300m),Smt(05,08-09/11)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  From C1 to BC after Pawlowski got him to C1 from top. 

  No technical problems and had good weather on the mountain. At C1 not space for every team's tents, so used each others tents by agreement.


expid: AMAD96310
peakid: AMAD
year: 1996
route1: NW Ridge (to 5800m)
route2: N Face (to 5500m)
nation: UK
leaders: Christopher Comerie
sponsor: British Ama Dablam Expedition 1996 Northwest Ridge
bcdate: 1996-10-17
smtdate: 1996-11-06
termdate: 1996-11-14
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to deep loose snow
campsites: BC(17/10,4688),C1(20/10,5300m),C2(27/10,5550m),xxx(06/11,5800m)
agency: Sherpa Excursions
routememo:
  BC at west side of lake southwest of Dingboche
  C1 at North Col of NW Ridge
  C2 on NW Ridge.

  From BC climbed grassy spur leading to rocky couloir and then to col on NW Ridge and then up ridge or on north side of it. Stopped on gendarme because of deep loose sugar snow. Had to dig to get to rock in some spots. "We had to tunnel our way." Elsewhere, on north side of ridge, there was a couloir of hard ice. 5 Nov reached gendarme; 6 Nov reached their highest point on it; and 7 Nov decided to abandon it. Cold "pretty intense" since were on northern side and some members got frostnip. Route same as Ed Webster's USA-Canada team in autumn 1994.

  11 Nov Hey and Armstrong went route North Face via Japanese 1980 route to 5500m and stopped because avalanching ice chunks, one of which hit Hey on elbow; snow and ice conditions good, but objective danger too great.


expid: AMAD96301
peakid: AMAD
year: 1996
route1: W Ridge from S
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Robert Steenmeijer
sponsor: Dutch Ama Dablam Expedition 1996
countries: Austria
bcdate: 1996-09-25
smtdate: 1996-10-23
termdate: 1996-10-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to dangerous snow and wind and route difficulty
campsites: BC(25/09,4535),ABC(28/09,5200m),Biv(23/10,6000m),xxx(23/10,6000m)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Mingbo (same as SW Ridge teams)
  High point on West Ridge.

  23 Oct Schwarzl, Steenmeijer and Valkenburg arrived at 6000m on ridge in dark at 6:00 pm and had to stop here and dig out space for bivouac; 24th bad weather set in and went down; snow sugary and also obstacles.

  9 Oct first tried climbing gully to right of ridge, but it ended in overhanging rock which couldn't pass on either side; stopped at 5850m and retreated and back to ABC.

  Spent half day on last day moving only 50m up with no protection in sugar snow; route above difficult and dangerous and weather deteriorating so decided climb was finished.

  No intention to return to this too difficult route; "it's way over my head" says Steenmeijer who led the attempt in spring 1995 and thought then he had identified a feasible route.


expid: AMAD96309
peakid: AMAD
year: 1996
route1: SW Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Guy Cotter
sponsor: Bergfuhrer Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 192
countries: UK, USA
bcdate: 1996-10-15
smtdate: 1996-10-29
termdate: 1996-11-01
campsites: BC(15/10,4500m),C1(17/10,5600m),C2(28/10,6200m),Smt(29/10)
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  Skipped normal C2 and camped at C3 site instead because C1 was high enough to be able to go straight through.


expid: AMAD96314
peakid: AMAD
year: 1996
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Mark Stampiglia
sponsor: USA Ama Damlam 96
ascent1: 198,199
bcdate: 1996-10-24
smtdate: 1996-11-06
termdate: 1996-11-10
campsites: BC(24/10,4575m),ABC(29/10,4970m),C1(30/10,5800m),C2(04/11,6000m),C3(05/11,6400m),Smt(06-07/11)
accidents: Stampiglia took time to acclimatize but not seriously
agency: Himalayan Sherpa Adventure
routememo:
  No technical problems. Very uneventful, but you have to be a rock climber to do it (Mark to climb this route).


expid: AMAD96318
peakid: AMAD
year: 1996
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Bela Vadasz
sponsor: 96 American Ama Dablam
ascent1: 204
bcdate: 1996-11-05
smtdate: 1996-11-11
termdate: 1996-11-14
campsites: BC(05/11,4600m),TempABC(06/11,5060m),C1(07/11,5830m),C2(09/11,6050m),C3(10/11,6250m),Smt(11/11)
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  This team, on same permit as Houston's team, were on tight schedule, arrived earlier at BC and moved up mountain, ahead of others team. 2 teams shared same liaison officer and base camp provided by trekking agent, but each team provided their own tents, gear and food above BC and they did not climb together.


expid: AMAD96319
peakid: AMAD
year: 1996
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Mark Houston
sponsor: 96 Ama Dablam
ascent1: 206
countries: France
bcdate: 1996-11-07
smtdate: 1996-11-15
termdate: 1996-11-18
campsites: BC(07/11,4600m),TempABC(10/11,5060m),C1(11/11,5830m),C2(12/11,6050m),C3(13/11,6250m),Smt(15/11)
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  ABC temp (no permanent camp) - tent moved to C1.

  On 14 Nov Cosley and Latombe made bid for top and turned back 120 vertical meters below summit because very cold and they returned to C3. On 15th Houston, Cosley and Rowe went to top and back to C3; returned to BC 16th.


expid: AMAD96316
peakid: AMAD
year: 1996
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Bernard Mailhot
sponsor: Icebreakers Ama Dablam Expedition 1996
ascent1: 203,205
bcdate: 1996-10-29
smtdate: 1996-11-10
termdate: 1996-11-14
campsites: BC(29/10,4500m),C1(04/11,5600m),Biv(08/11,5850m),C3(09/11,6300m),Smt(10,12/11)
accidents: Nothing except mild frost up by Mailhot
achievment: 1st French Canadian to top
agency: World Adventure
routememo:
  On 12th summiters on top at 10:25 am, cleared C2 at 1:00 pm, cleared C1 at 4:00 pm and at BC at 8:00 pm. Clear weather but windy and cold. Had summited from C2 but had not camped at 5850m.


expid: AMAD96317
peakid: AMAD
year: 1996
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Scott Woolums
sponsor: US Ama Dablam 1996
ascent1: 197
bcdate: 1996-10-31
smtdate: 1996-11-06
termdate: 1996-11-08
othersmts: Island Peak
campsites: BC(31/10,4600m),C1(03/11,5800m),C2(04/11,6100m),C3(05/11,6400m),Smt(06/11)
accidents: Creatura slight frostbite
agency: Lamjung
routememo:
  Used already fixed rope and had no problems on the mountain and relations with other teams went generally smoothly.


expid: AMAD96302
peakid: AMAD
year: 1996
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: John McIsaac
sponsor: Canadian Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 1996-09-30
smtdate: 1996-10-13
termdate: 1996-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to dangerous snow conditions
campsites: BC(30/09,4200m),C1(04/10,5800m),C2(08/10,6000m),C3(12/10,6150m),xxx(13/10,6600m)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 on SW Ridge.
  High point on face at top of SW Ridge.

  Summit push 13 Oct from C3 at 3:00 am but snow deep, soft sugar and scary and when sun got onto snow at 9:00 am very serious possibility avalanching then and later during summit descent, so turned back and climb finished, since time had running out. "We turned back because of good judgement"; made camp for one night (11 Oct) at 6100m because ran out rope to fix on the route and had to go down to fetch more before continuing ascent.


expid: BARU96305
peakid: BARU
year: 1996
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Jean-Luc Passello
sponsor: Yverdon Baruntse 1996
ascent1: 43rd
bcdate: 1996-10-19
smtdate: 1996-11-01
smttime: 1245
termdate: 1996-11-03
campsites: BC(19/10,5500m),C1(28/10,6140m),Smt(01/11)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC west-southwest of West Col, west of small lake
  C1 at West Col.

  To top in deep snow which discouraged Morel from trying to summit. 1 Nov Passello and Sandruk Sherpa (from Makalu village, living in Darjeeling) left C1 at 4:30 am, went to top 12:45 pm and back to BC 8:00 pm a bit tired and Passello slightly frostbitten toes; intended to stop at C1 in descent but sirdar met them there and said they had to go to BC.


expid: BARU96301
peakid: BARU
year: 1996
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Martin Fischer
sponsor: Amical Alpin Swiss Baruntse Expedition 1996
ascent1: 42
bcdate: 1996-10-10
smtdate: 1996-10-24
smttime: 1400
termdate: 1996-10-25
campsites: BC(10/10,5000m),C1(14/10,6100m),C2(18/10,6400m),Smt(24/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  1st summit bid 18th but too much snow; then 21-23 really bad weather (lot of wind).  23rd left BC at 11:00 pm and went directly to summit at 2:00 pm on 24th.


expid: BARU96303
peakid: BARU
year: 1996
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Christoph Mayer
sponsor: Allgau Baruntse Expedition
ascent1: 39th,41st
countries: UK
bcdate: 1996-10-12
smtdate: 1996-10-20
termdate: 1996-10-21
campsites: BC(12/10,5400m),C1(16/10,6140m),C2(19/10,6450m),Smt(20,22/10)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site where French and other Germans camped
  C1 at West Col.

  Uneventful climb, speedy, safe, normal route.


expid: BARU96302
peakid: BARU
year: 1996
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Robert Rackl
sponsor: Amical Alpin German Baruntse Expedition 1996
ascent1: 37th
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 1996-10-10
smtdate: 1996-10-20
termdate: 1996-10-25
campsites: BC(10/10,5000m),C1(14/10,6100m),C2(17/10,6400m),Smt(20/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  This German Amical team had 2 Sherpas to carry loads but Swiss party no Sherpas and carried themselves - were really separate teams; did not mix while climbing but used same fixed ropes and shared tents in C2 and oxygen supplies at BC available to both.


expid: BARU96304
peakid: BARU
year: 1996
route1: SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Philippe Grenier, Paul Grobel
sponsor: Terres d'Adventure Baruntse Expedition
ascent1: 38th,40th
bcdate: 1996-10-13
smtdate: 1996-10-20
termdate: 1996-10-24
campsites: BC(13/10,5400m),C1(16/10,6135m),C2(18/10,6600m),Smt(20-21/10)
agency: Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
routememo:
  BC near lake just south of Hunku Glacier
  C1 at West Col
  C2 just west of point 6730m on Schneider Khumbu map

  22nd and 23rd Oct other summit bids, but too much wind to succeed and on 23rd snowed.

  Team returned to Kathmandu via Mingbo La, while porters came out via Mera La.


expid: MAKA96305
peakid: MAKA
year: 1996
route1: NW Ridge route (to 6800m)
route2: W Face (Swiss rte) (to 7400m)
nation: Japan
leaders: Yasushi Yamanoi
sponsor: Japan Makalu West Face Expedition 1996
approach: Helicopter->and from BC area (west of Barun Pokhari)
bcdate: 1996-09-06
smtdate: 1996-09-25
termdate: 1996-09-30
termnote: Abandoned on 26 Sep due to hurt by rock falling on Yamanoi's head
campsites: BC(06/09,5300m),Biv1(10/09,6500m),Biv2(11/09,6800m),Biv3(25/09,6700m),xxx(25/09,7400m)
accidents: Yamanoi hit by falling rock
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at normal site at glaciers' junction
  Biv on NW Ridge route
  Biv on NW Ridge route
  Biv on West Face
  High point on West Face.

  Yamonoi to 6200m and back to BC on 8 Sept. 10 Sept up to 6500m biv and 11th to 6800m and to 6500m. 12 Sept to 6800m and down to BC; all this to acclimatize while TV team and Nagao taking photos near C1. 16th Sept Yamonoi went up West Face to 6700m to deposit supplies of equipment and back to BC. 21st Sept 1st attack for top but snow falling so turned back at 6000m. 

  2nd attack 24th Sept; left BC in afternoon and at bottom of wall waited till evening to try to climb face starting at 7:00 pm. 2:00 am 25th reached 6700m depot and biv. 25th 6:00 pm up and at 7400m at 9:00 pm rock (first rope) hit Yamanoi on head and despite helmet he felt pain in neck and chest and turned down to 6700m (arrived at midnight). 26th tried again but by time reached 7200m felt bad and abandoned climb. Avalanching on face; small snow avalanches and small rocks. Wants to return to face (in autumn season) part of face he climbed not technically difficult but had 13 kg food on his back in solo effort.


expid: MAKA96306
peakid: MAKA
year: 1996
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Rudy Bucella
sponsor: Italians on Makalu
bcdate: 1996-09-14
smtdate: 1996-09-27
termdate: 1996-10-10
termnote: Abandoned on 7 Oct due to bad snow
campsites: BC(14/09,5250m),C1(18/09,6000m),C2(21/09,6300m),C3(26/09,7000m),xxx(27/09,7200m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC slightly above glacier junction
  C1 on snow to east of rock formation in Chago Glacier
  C2 at center of glacier
  C3 at Kukuczka shoulder.

  From C3 tried to go directly to ridge (avoiding Col) but dangerous from avalanches and strong wind. Had made deposit about 20 Sept at 6800m but avalanche took it away. Turned back on 27 Sept because too much snow and wind; [Clavel] was going up to see conditions and found he could not go higher in these conditions. Weather changed within 4 days snowed continuously. 

  6 Oct tried to go up but could go only to 6300m and Bucella not well and Clavel and Angolo (Basques) to 7200m on 7th and same day down because bad snow conditions and climb finished.

  At start of climb were 2 teams and stayed so till last few days.

  Team did not get onto NW Ridge.


expid: MAKA96303
peakid: MAKA
year: 1996
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Joseba Manterola
sponsor: Basque Makalu 1996 Expedition
bcdate: 1996-09-04
smtdate: 1996-10-08
termdate: 1996-10-10
termnote: Abandoned on 10 Oct due to bad snow
campsites: BC(04/09,5250m),ABC(08/09,6000m),C1(25/09,6400m),C2(26/09,6800m),xxx(08/10,7000m)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at slightly above glacier junction
  High point at Kukuczka shoulder.

  27th Sept down and spent 10 days in BC while bad weather brought intermittent snowfalls. Then with 5 Italians to 6300-6400m on 6th Oct. 7th to 6800m but found tent there collapsed. 8th Angolo up to 7000m then avalanches and snow no good and climb finished.

  Team did not get onto the NW Ridge.


expid: MAKA96304
peakid: MAKA
year: 1996
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Andre Georges
sponsor: International Makalu Expedition
countries: France
approach: Helicopter->Hillary Base Camp area
bcdate: 1996-09-04
smtdate: 1996-09-26
termdate: 1996-10-04
termnote: Abandoned on 27 Sep due injuries from parapente accident
campsites: HillaryBC(04/09,4800),BC(06/09,5300m),C1(10/09,6200m),C2(26/09,6800m),xxx(26/09,6800m)
accidents: Georges parapente accident 17 Sept only
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  C2 at steep part of Chago Glacier below Makalu La
  High point at C2.

  Georges had accident with parapente flight from 5600m near BC; hit rocks; head wound and other body injuries; rested one week at BC and then tried to resume climb and made C2 and slept there one night and then had difficulty descending on 27th because of injuries; also no energy; dangerous to continue climb so decided not to continue. Reached BC and climb finished because Ozenda did not want to climb alone.

  Georges: "I'll never fly (by parapente) again in Himalaya - winds change too much."


expid: MAKA96302
peakid: MAKA
year: 1996
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Daniel Van Doorsselaere
sponsor: Belgian Makalu Expedition 1996
bcdate: 1996-10-07
smtdate: 1996-11-11
termdate: 1996-11-15
termnote: Abandoned on 11 Nov due to strong wind
campsites: BC(07/10,5200m),C1(14/10,6200m),C2(18/10,6700m),C3(10/11,7400m),xxx(11/11,7800)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Green Lotus Trekking
routememo:
  BC just north of glacier junction
  C1 at main Chago Glacier below steep section
  C2 beneath rocks west of Makalu La
  C3 at Makalu La
  High point on North Face.

  C3 delayed by fierce winds from Tibet and 3 days of snowfall. 11 Nov summit bid from C3 aborted by wind which blew one Sherpa down 2m and retreated because wind's velocity strengthening day by day. Strong winds really started in late Oct.


expid: PYRM96301
peakid: PYRM
year: 1996
route1: W Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Darren Miller
sponsor: Australian Pyramid Peak Expedition
bcdate: 1996-10-08
smtdate: 1996-10-22
termdate: 1996-10-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6350m due to winds
campsites: BC(08/10,5100m),ABC(12/10,5350m),C1(17/10,5700m),C2(18/10,6100m),C3(19/10,6300m),xxx(22/10,6350m)
accidents: Welch cerebral edema which improved when escorted down; porter serious pulmonary edema on march out
achievment: 1st attempt from west
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC  at Pangpema
  ABC at Jonsang Glacier
  C1  on West Ridge
  C2  on West Ridge
  C3  on West Ridge.

  After C3 occupied, winds came up and temp dropped. On 22nd tried to go up from C3 but wind and cold drove them down to ABC same day. Now clouds coming in and decided on 24h that climb was finished.

  Just a walk from BC to ABC; not technically difficult on ridge but from 6650m they would have begun rock and steep ice.


expid: MAKA96301
peakid: MAKA
year: 1996
route1: NE Ridge (to 6420m)
route2: NE Ridge (Japanese 1986 rte) (to 7000m)
nation: China
leaders: Samdrup
sponsor: China-Tibet Expedition to 14 Mountains of 8000m
approach: Lhasa->Karta
bcdate: 1996-09-03
smtdate: 1996-10-10
termdate: 1996-10-18
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m on 18 Oct due to dangerous snow conditions
accidents: Avalanche carried 7 members 50m down, but not hurt seriously
agency: None
campsites:
  BC(03/09,3900m),C1(07/09,4200m),C2(12/09,5300m),TeamA.C3(16/10,6420m),TeamA.xxx(16/09,6420m),TeamB.xxx(10/10,7000m)

routememo:
  High point at C3.

  Divided into A and B teams above C2. 30 days in BC because of heavy snowfall after C2 established and difficult to reach C3 site. Team A were Akebu, Pemba Tashi, Ren Na, and Tshering Dorje. Unable to go above C3 because of deep snow - tried 4 times to go above C3. Many avalanches.

  Expedition attempted "same route as Japanese, but followed ridge" - apparently did not use route suggested by Tanabe.

  Team B high point of 7000m there was snow 1.90 meters deep and very soft - too much danger from avalanching to try climbing again.

  13 May 96 - leader Samdrup said planned to leave Lhasa 25 Aug to go to BC, which they would reach after 1 week. Summit attempt to be around 30 Sept-2 Oct.

  Difficult rock wall 200m high slowed progress above C1. This is where 350m of rope fixed.

  Highest point (C3) reached by 4 members (Akebu, Ren Na, Tshering Dorje, Pemba Tashi) and 2 Tibetans high altitude porters recruited locally (Lhakpa and Norbu). 2 HAP remained at C3 for one week; 4 members stayed 3 days, descended to C2, then returned to C3 to check condition of route to C3, found very deep snow on route and immediately descended without sleeping again in C3.

  Expedition had intended to follow 1995 spring Japanese route, but Lhasa TMA office insisted to Dou-Chang Shen from Lhasa they had been on West Ridge, so Dou thinks they probably did not climb Japanese route. Maybe they started up wrong route, were on West Ridge, completely different from Japanese.


expid: MANA82301
peakid: MANA
year: 1982
route1: E Ridge (to 6200m)
route2: NE Face (to 5600m)
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Paul Balmat
sponsor: Expedition Manaslu 1982
bcdate: 1982-09-10
smtdate: 1982-09-22
termdate: 1982-10-08
campsites: BC(10/09,4400m),C1(19/09,5600m),xxx(22/09,6200m)
routememo:
  Abandoned East Ridge route and went to other expedition's NE Face route. Went to Col at 5600m and then ordered off by other's LO.


  Balmat - 19 Oct 82

  Put in C1 at 5600m and rope above it then in deep snow had not enough strength with small team on such big mountain requiring lot of fixed rope.

  BC at 4400m on 10 Sept
  C1    5600m on 19 Sept

  High point 6200m on 22 Sept by Balmat, Claret Tournier and Thivierge then went over to other French Manaslu who said glad to have two teams join. Were friends and went to Naike Col at 5600m. Then other's LO apparently sent false message to KTM that others objected and official permission refused. No accident, frostbite or serious illness.


  Ale, Tourism - 15 Oct 82

  Abandoned attempt and left BC 8 Oct. Went to other Manaslu expedition's C1 on 28 Sept to climb their route, but others objected and LO also, so this expedition returned to our BC and quit.


  Balmat & Thivierge - 29 Aug 82
   
  Leave KTM 25 or 26 by road to Trisuli Bazar. 12 days to BC at 4500m. 

  Same East Ridge (or SE Ridge) route as Japanese women in 1974 and French in 1977; not yet successfully climbed which is why want this route.

  2 friends camps above BC at 5700m and 6600m; above 6600m will be alpine-style with bivs. 4 days from C2 to top. Most difficult will be C2 to summit: steep and at high altitude, mixed snow and rock.
   
  1 Sherpa above BC, maybe to summit: Mingma Sherpa went to summit of Annapurna I 1978 autumn with American women.

  Oxygen medical only
  Arrive BC 6 Sept, summit 1-15 Oct.


expid: DHA282301
peakid: DHA2
year: 1982
route1: S Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Francois Imbert
sponsor: Expedition of the Alpine Club of Chamonix
approach: Pokhara->Myagdi Khola
bcdate: 1982-09-22
smtdate: 1982-10-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to avalanche danger
campsites: BC(22/09,3500m),C1(28/09,4800m),C2(03/10,5600m),C3(07/10,6100m),C4(19/10,6800m)
routememo:
  Le Garrec - 1 Nov 82

  BC  3500m  22 Sept
  C1  4800m  27 or 28 Sept
  C2  5600m  3 Oct
  C3  6100m  7 Oct
  C4  6800m  19 Oct

  21 Oct give up. Problem of snow making difficult to progress and brought avalanches which hit one member who had to stop climbing then.

  Route = South Ridge
  C4 to top could be quick with ice easy to climb but with snow was serious avalanche danger and had to give up.

  No other accidents or frostbite
  No Sherpas above base
  No oxygen
  KTM lodge now - all others arrive KTM 2 Nov
  Le Garrec, team Louis


  Sharma, Tourism - 1 Nov 82

  Dhaulagiri II South Face

  Abandoned 21 Oct 
  C4 6800m (date ?)
  Several snowfalls made us to decide end of expedition - after 2 days left C2 5600m on 21 Oct.

  C3 6100m  7 Oct 
  C2 5600m  3 Oct
  C1 4800m  28 Sept


  Imbert - 1 Sept 82

  7 total members - leave KTM 7 Sept by road to Pokhara
  14 days caravan to BC via Beru and up Myagdi Khola to 3600m
  Lower BC at 3600m north of Puchhar - this camp for rest in bad weather
  Upper BC altitude depends on snow conditions - maybe 4000m 

  Are more fixed camps; above this line bivs, 3 or 4 bivs depending on degree of acclimatization.

  Route = direct South Ridge to summit never climbed successfully before, but thinks one Japanese expediiton tried it; thinks there is a direct South Ridge. 

  Arrive lower BC about 22 Sept. 1-1/2 months provisions, but hope reaach summit in 3-4 weeks from lower BC; must wait for acclimatization.

  C1 = ABC from which no more fixed camps.
  No Sherpas above upper BC unless sirdar goes, so not sure.

  LBC - 3600m
  UBC - 4000m (rough estimate)
  ABC - 5500-6000m  

  Upper part of ridge could be difficult mixed rock and snow but don't really know.
  Medical oxygen only.
  Expedition Alpine Club of Chamonix.


expid: MANA82302
peakid: MANA
year: 1982
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Louis Audoubert
sponsor: Manaslu 1982
ascent1: 16th
countries: Italy, Switzerland
approach: Trisuli Bazar->Buri Gandaki
bcdate: 1982-09-17
smtdate: 1982-10-10
smttime: 1200
campsites:
  BC(17/09,4000m),C1(18/09,5200m),C2(02/10,6000m),C3(03/10,6450m),Biv(05/10,7300m),NewBiv(09/10,7500m),Smt(10/10)

routememo:
  Audoubert - 26 Oct 82

  C1 - 18 Sept, reached C2 site 20 Sept and then much snow
  C2 - 2 Oct occupied (1 tent) at 6000m
  C3 - 3 Oct 6450m
  Biv - 5 Oct 7300m and descended
  New biv - 9 Oct 7500m

  10 Oct left biv at 7:10 am and on top 12:00, Audoubert and Nawang Tenzing (Messner's climber).

  Route was normal NE Face with some change going right of seracs (between 5400m and 6000m, between C1 and C2).

  Deep snow was problem: C1 broken under snow late Sept. 
  No oxygen at all; 3 Sherpas above BC.

  No more on top because had no time because of tight schedule and others not well acclimatization, in such short period of time.

  No accident, no frostbite, no illness.
  All members reached C3.

  Other expedition to Manaslu were friends of this one and this one happy to have then join climb. Almost no skiing.


  Ale, Tourism - 13 Oct 82

  C4 - 4 Oct 7450m

  Summit 10 Oct by Leader Audoubert and Nawang Tenzing 33, at 12:00 noon. Started from C4 at 7:00 am, stayed on top 30 minutes, returned to C4 2:20 pm. All Ok.


  Ale, Tourism - 6 Oct 82

  C1 - 18 Sept 5200m
  C2 - 12 Sept 5900m

  Want to change route; went to C1 of NE Ridge and skied down to own camp. LO did not permit further climbing on NE Ridge.


  Audoubert - 29 Aug 82

  NE Face route skiing up and maybe down, all on skis
  Leave 2 or 3 Sept by road to Trisuli Bazar
  15 days to BC
  BC at 4800m if possible to get porters that high
  3 or 4 camps above BC with highest at 7400 or 7500m
  3 Sherpas above BC
  No oxygen at all
  Summit 10-12 Oct
  On skis in autumn soft snow easier than on foot, but cannot use skis in icefall, and in 2 different pitches.


expid: CHRE82301
peakid: CHRE
year: 1982
route1: E Ridge-E Smt (to 7150m)
nation: France
leaders: Gerard Grossan
sponsor: French Churen Himal Expedition 1982
bcdate: 1982-10-09
smtdate: 1982-11-03
termdate: 1982-11-07
termnote: Abandoned at 7150m due to avalanche danger on knife-edge ridge
othersmts: Attempted Churen Himal West (CHRW-823-01)
primid: CHRW82301
campsites:
  BC(09/10,4110m),C1(11/10,4700m),C2(15/10,5300m),C3(26/10,5850m),C4(31/10,6300m),C5(02/11,6600m),xxx(03/11,7150m)


expid: LANG82302
peakid: LANG
year: 1982
route1: E Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Denis Chatrefou
sponsor: French Expedition to Langtang Lirung
approach: Trisuli Bazar->Langtang Valley
bcdate: 1982-10-04
smtdate: 1982-10-06
termdate: 1982-10-10
termnote: Abandoned on 7 Oct after avalanche at C1
campsites: BC(04/10,4250m),C1(06/10,5000m),xxx(07/10,5000m)
routememo:
  Chatrefou - 16 Oct 82

  7 Oct at 2:00 am big avalanche came down 2000m above C1 and C2 covered in 1 meter snow (C1 = 2 tents with 2 men). Whole valley covered by pieces of ice from serac; people in C1 thought they would die and were there 1 hour but one man with crampon cut tent and got out and helped other man out of his tent. Philippe walked over other's tent under mound of snow, other heard his footfall and other cried out. Philippe found ice pick, dug him out by 4:00 am. By 6:00 am got out equipment and went down towards BC while men from BC came up to help. Another avalanche came down same route and if had been higher would have been hit. Decided to stop expedition because continuous avalanching. No safe place on this route via 1600m high Langtang Glacier. Left BC 3 days later. If no avalanche on 7 Oct would have gone to C2 at 5700m that day. 2 Sherpas went to C1 but did not stay there.


  Ale, Tourism - 10 Oct 82

  BC on 4 Oct 4250m
  5 Oct started climb from southeast
  C1 on 6 Oct 4900m in mid-Lirung Glacier.
  Abandoned 7 Oct because of extreme danger from frequent avalanches. 
  To leave BC 9 or 10 Oct says message of 8 Oct from LO.


  Chatrefou & Duvillier - 22 Sept 82

  Route = SE Ridge, the most freqently used route, same as 1978 autumn Japanese expedition.

  BC - 4700m
  C1 - 5000m
  C2 - 5700m
  C3 - 6300m - 1st camp on ridge
  C4 - c6800m light camp

  2 days from C3 to top in final summit push. 10 members total, 3 now here, 7 arrive 26 Sept or later. Leave 28 Sept go via Trisuli Bazar, Betrawati, Trisuli River to Langtang Khola, past Langtang airfield to glacier south of Langtang Lirung. Arrive BC 5 Oct.

  2 Sherpas above BC, but perhaps not above C1.
  Medical oxygen only.


expid: PUMO82301
peakid: PUMO
year: 1982
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Erik Decamp
sponsor: Pumori 1982
ascent1: 14th,15th
bcdate: 1982-09-27
smtdate: 1982-10-18
smttime: 1200
termdate: 1982-10-21
campsites: BC(27/09,5300m),C1(04/10,6200m),Smt(18-19/10)
agency: Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
routememo:
  Lemoine - 1 Nov 82

  BC 5300m near lake of southwest of point 5327m south of Pumori on 27 Sept.

  Acclimatization for 15 days climbing on sides of Pumori and to see route and to put tent at 6200m and down again.

  14 Oct began push upwards via South Ridge. Took 5 days to 100m below top. Last day very bad weather but 1st 4 days nice weather.

  18th bad weather day. Decamp and Lemoine to summit with compass; left big plate of chocolate for Americans.

  19th Decamp again to top [from C1] in slightly better weather with Faivre. Mevellec went near summit but had headache and turned back, not so easy as expected.

  South Ridge: some technical problems in various places on route; rock problems, same artificial pitches, but safe route. No avalanche danger. Pleasant route and had good luck.
   
  No accidents, frostbite
  No Sherpas above BC, no oxygen 
  No fixed rope


  Sharma, Tourism - 24 Oct 82

  French Pumori via South Ridge
  18 Oct 12 noon arrived top from C4 (altitude not known):
    1) Erik Decamp (leader), 1954, mountain guide
    2) Jean Francois Lemoine, 1948, Champagnole

  19 Oct leader again to top with Pierre Faivre, 1954, at 8:00 am on top. 
  All arrive BC 21 Oct and all well. No information on 4th member's not going top. 


  Ale, Tourism - 8 Oct 82

  C1 pitched 4 Oct at 16:00 hours by leader and all 3 other members.


  Decamp, et all - 12 Sept 82

  All leave KTM 14 or 15 Sept by road and foot.
  Route = South Ridge, probably same BC at Gorak Shep about 5000m.
  Alpine-style ascent, no camps above BC, no Sherpas, no oxygen at all.
  Most difficult part: steep section at about 6500-6700m (mixed rock and ice).
  Arrive BC about 1 Oct.

  Summit 20 Oct after 15 days acclimatization climbing and walking descend by East Ridge. So will climb this ridge to 6000m or more to have a look at this feature before making summit push. No skiing.

  Pumori 1982

  Maybe stay at Hotel Shakti on return, maybe near GHA.


expid: NGOJ82301
peakid: NGOJ
year: 1982
route1: S Face
nation: France
leaders: Guy Cousteix
sponsor: Joint Nepalese-French-Belgian Ngojumba Expedition
countries: Belgium
bcdate: 1982-09-23
smtdate: 1982-10-13
termnote: Abandoned on 13 Oct due to heavy snowfall
campsites: BC(23/09,5200m),ABC(26/09,5400m),C1(02/10,5800m),C2(06/10,6400m),C3(08/10,6750m),xxx(13/10,7000m)
accidents: No accidents, frostbite
routememo:
  Bozart and Chapelle - 26 Oct 82

  Nepal-Belgium Ngojumba Kang
  BC   23 Sept  - 5200m
  ABC  26 Sept  - 5400m
  C1    2 Oct   - 5800m
  C2    6 Oct   - 6400m
  C3    8 Oct   - 6750m-6800m

  BC northeast of lake above Donag Lhaftshan (same as Cho Oyu BC site).
  From BC went into Ngojumba Glacier and then northeast of point 5420 to ABC
  C1 is north of point in Lungsampa above point 6073m
  C2 is near point 6515m
  C3 is near 6800m couloir line above "N" of Ngojumpa Glacier went up to 7000m couloir line on glacier to right towards -- on map.

  At 7000m on 13 Oct. Then gave up: very long route and much deeps soft snow, too tiring. C3 too far from summit would take 20 hours to reach top, but no tent and little food for C4. Sherpas were not climbers (only porters) and they went down from C3 and went to C3 only 1 time. Could not climb without fixed rope. 7000m reached by 4 members by Bogaert, Cousteix, Favre and Delafosse on 13 Oct.
   
  No accidents, frostbite.

  Need 5 camps above BC on this route and may be skis or snowshoes for long snow
  14 kms BC to base of face at 7200m
  All 6 arrived yesterday from Lukla


  Shyam, Tourism - 22 Oct 82

  French-Belgium-Nepal Ngojumba Kang
  South and SE Face
  Abandoned because heavy snowfall says message from LO of 19 Oct from Namche. 


  Cousteix & Michaud - 29 March 82

  2 arrived 29 Aug
  4 arrrived 5 Sept; total 6 Belgian-French members 
  Leave KTM 8 and Sept by road and arrive BC after about 20 days 
  Joint Nepal-French-Belgium Ngojumba Expedition 
  Route also South Face - reach summit ridge via a pillar ending east of highest summit.
  BC at 5200-5300m east of point 5420m on Schneider map on Ngojumba Glacier
  3 camps above BC
  C3 at 7000m
  BC end Sept, summit about 25 Oct
  3 Sherpas = [nominal] members (only Sherpas above BC)
  2 medical oxygen only


expid: TUKU82301
peakid: TUKU
year: 1982
route1: NW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Philippe Bonano
sponsor: Terres d'Adventure Expedition to Tukuche
countries: Belgium
bcdate: 1982-10-14
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to heavy snowfall
othersmts: Climbed Dhampus illegally (DHAM-823-01)
campsites: TempBC(14/10,4000m),BC(16/10,4700m),C1(18/10,5500m),xxx(5800m)
agency: Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
routememo:
  Liaison Officer report on autumn 1982 Tukuche

  TBC 14 Oct  4000m
  BC  16 Oct  4700m
  C1  18 OCt  5500m

  Bad weather (snowfall) forced abandonment 20 Oct. Returned to Marpha 24 Oct
  and to KTM 29 Oct. No accidents.

  Tukuche from Leader's report to MFA
  Maximum altitude 5800m
  6 Nepalese above BC
  Return to KTM 29 Oct
  Tek Bahadur Thapa, LO


  Sharma, Tourism - 1 Nov 82

  Tukuche northwest side abandoned 21 Oct after reaching 5500m because of heavy snowfall.


  Vizies, GHA - 31 Oct 82

  Route as planned. Reached C1 as planned and then had to give up because of deeps snow which could have caught them behind impassable Col.

  No accidents, no frostbite. 
  2 Sherpas above BC.

  Then went to Dhampus Peak which all members and 2 Sherpas successfully climbed.


  Bodson - 3 Oct 82

  Terres D'Adventure Expedition to Tukuche.
  Leave 4 Oct by bus to Pokhara and 10-12 days to BC. 
  Indirect way from Tukuche village across Dambush Pass to northwest of mountain.
  Route up NW Ridge of Tukuche on North Face
  BC 4800m on north-northwest of mountain
  ABC 5200m 
  2 camps above ABC, C2 at 6200m
  3 Sherpas above BC.
  Medical oxygen only
  9 arrived today and leader arrive tomorrow and goes to Pokhara same day.


expid: JANU82301
peakid: JANU
year: 1982
route1: N Face
nation: France
leaders: Pierre Beghin, Bernard Muller
sponsor: Expedition Jannu 1982
approach: Dhankuta->Ghunsa->BC
bcdate: 1982-09-07
smtdate: 1982-10-16
termdate: 1982-11-01
campsites: BC(07/09,4570m),C1(14/09,5540m),C2(23/09,6100m),C3(02/10,6800m),xxx(16/10,7100m)
routememo:
  Beghin - 10 Nov 82

  Beghin and Muller arrived this am and 2 more after 4-5 days. High point at 7100m on 16 Oct and again 23 Oct. Berhault left at beginning because did not like route's danger and perhaps not an expedition man and did not realise dimensions of Himalaya. This departure bad for expedition of 6 members and only 2 Sherpas who not interested in difficult climb in cold. Bretin left BC 24 Oct to return to his job.

  Big problem was very bad weather in Oct. Heavy snowfall in mid-Oct brought very deep snow and avalanches. Then LO said expedition cancelled because expedition took such long time. Perhaps could have reached summit. Did not follow Japanese route because wanted go direct. But summit wall not possible, for such small light weight team in autumn so tried to reach NE Ridge. "I have never seen such a wall in 1000m high and last 500m completely overhanging." In Sept 1-2 hours sun and in Oct no sun at all on North Face which is so very steep.

  No accidents, frostbite. Not dangerous; so very steep snow does not collect, rock face; some powder snow avalanche but not heavy snow. Problem: cold and steepness. Japanese route very dangerous because of seracs.


  Sharma, Tourism - 26 Oct 82

  16 Oct reaching 7000m, because of heavy snowfall and bad weather abandoned on 23 Oct. All well. Leaving BC Nov 1.
  (C3 at 6800m already on 2 Oct)
  (1 member left early).


  Ale, Tourism - 10 Oct 82

  Beghin and Dr. Fargeas 2 Oct pitched C3 at 6800m.

  C2 on 23 Sept at 6100m by Claude Beghin, Gerard Bretin and Bernard Muller.


  Ale, Tourism - 8 Oct 82

  Member Patrick Berhault (25), with leader's approval, abandoned following dispute over too much work for him.

   
  Beghin & Bretin - 17 Aug 82

  Route = North Face direct (Japanese in 1976 went via NE Ridge to North Face). Direct route = very difficult route technically. Last part 2200m very steep (perhaps vertical, no snow). Before this 1000m pillar and then flat and then 2200m face of ice and then rock (good hard granite and same gneiss rock). North Face = very cold, no sun at all (Wall of Shadows).

  2 arrived 14 August and other 4 will arrive on 19 Aug. Leave KTM 2 Aug by road to Dhankuta. 15-16 days from Dhankuta to BC via Ghunsa village and Jannu Glacier on north side of Jannu.

  BC 4500m
  C1 5500m - at top of pillar
  C2 6300m - snow field
  C3 6800m - at beginning of last rocky part
  Biv = hanging camp on very steep upper part of face 

  Arrive BC 7-8 Sept. Must go very fast in 1st part because on north side very cold but very difficult higher up. Hope for summit by 15 Oct. 2 Sherpas above BC to C1 only because above there too difficult. No oxygen at all.

  Brochure says: The most difficult wall in the world never attempted. Jean Franco: "It is one of the highest walls on earth; no one will ever come that way."


expid: ANNS82301
peakid: ANNS
year: 1982
route1: E Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Patrick Jacquemot
sponsor: Aussois-Nepal to Annapurna South
bcdate: 1982-10-06
smtdate: 1982-10-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(06/10,4200m),C1(08/10,4900m),C2(13/10,5800m),C3(21/10,6500m),xxx(21/10,6500m)
routememo:
  Dameuin & Fressard - 2 Nov 82

  All arrived KTM 30 Oct, all Ok. 
  Abandoned climb because snow. 80 cm at C2 and avalanches which came down near this camp.

  Route = East Ridge. C3 was on ridge and left supplies there.

  Between C1 and C2 very difficult and dangerous crevasse and seracs, too much for 2 Sherpas carrying loads. Could not wait for snow to stop, permit ended 31 Oct and would have had to resupply higher camps. Could not have came to Nepal earlier in autumn because busy working as guide in France. Abandoned on 23 Oct when saw weather was so bad, did not want to take risk. Did not climb above C3.


  Sharma, Tourism - 1 Nov 82

  Abandoned 23 Oct
  C3 6500m  21 Oct
  C2 5800m  13 Oct
  C1 4900m   8 Oct
  Because bad weather did not go above C3.
  Now in KTM, arrived yesterday.


  Jacquemot - 25 Sept 82

  Route = East Face, perhaps East Ridge - not sure or mountains's features.
  BC in Annapurna Sanctuary at 4800m
  Leave KTM about 29 Sept and arrive BC 5-6 Oct
  3 or 4 camps above BC
  No Sherpas above BC 
  Medical oxygen only


expid: PK2982301
peakid: PK29
year: 1982
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: James Green
sponsor: British Army West Nepal Expedition 1982
countries: Australia
bcdate: 1982-10-03
smtdate: 1982-10-23
termnote: Abandoned at 5915m due to lack of organization and time
campsites: BC(03/10,3960m),C1(07/10,5120m),C2(17/10,5670m),xxx(23/10,5915m)
routememo:
  Sharma, Tourism - 29 Oct 82

  Abandoned 25 Oct, no reason given.
  Arrive KTM 3 or 4 Nov. All well.


  Agnew - 26 Oct 82

  Agnew left BC 21 Oct. At that time expedition was at C2 and not likely to get much beyond.

  3  Oct BC established at 13,000 feet
  7  Oct C1     "       at 16,800 feet
  17 Oct C2     "       at 18,600 feet
  20th - 3 in C2
  21st would have pushed out route towards C3.

  2 more strong climbers had to leave 24th (arrive KTM early Nov) and with 3 departures, climb about over. Have to go over a peak to make C3 and this may be as far as they get.

  Route = SE Ridge (Japanese 1970 route)
  No accidents, frostbite or major illness except altitude.
  RAF member left because of toothache - rock climber, but not for Himalayas.

  Expedition badly organized and inexperienced leader; Green was not the person for the job.


  Green - 12 Sept 82

  Some doubt can get up originally planned South Ridge safely because it may be threatened by seracs. Alternate route from same starting point. Hope to Leave KTM 16 Sept and arrive BC 29 Sept.

  BC about 16,000-17,000 feet on Lidanda Glacier
  5 camps above BC
  No Sherpas above BC
  2 medical only oxygen

  Bottom face part of route (1st 5000 feet) most difficult technically.
  Ridge not extremely steep in general, but several rock bands could be. 

  British Army West Nepal Expedition 1982
  Leave KTM 19 Nov on RNAC
  Arrive KTM mid-Nov (2 return early, about 24-25 Oct)
  Stay at Hotal Shakti on return

  May have to go over to Japanese 1970 East Ridge route. Would start from Lidanda Glacier and join Japanese route at their C3 (6250m).


expid: THAM82301
peakid: THAM
year: 1982
route1: W Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Malcolm Duff
sponsor: Scottish Himalayan Expedition
bcdate: 1982-09-11
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to difficult route
othersmts: Attempted Nuptse (NUPT-823-02)
campsites: BC(11/09,4250m),xxx(Nov,6200m)
routememo:
  Duff & Allan - 13 Oct 82

  Hind walking out, arrives KTM about 16 Oct; wasn't well and didn't climb at all.

  Thamserku:
  6346m = North Summit
  BC was 14,000 feet at most

  Duff - 23 Aug 82

  Thamserku route = West Ridge, right above Namche (new route)
  Leave KTM 7 Aug by road to Kirantichap, 10 days to Namche 

  Thamserku BC about 8 Sept on close to bottom of West Ridge as possible at about 16,000 feet.

  Alpine-style with no fixed camps, fixed ropes and Sherpas. Rroute is a bit technical. About 5 days up and 2 days down "quicker if possible" on Thamserku.


expid: GAN482302
peakid: GAN4
year: 1982
route1: S Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Joo Si-Jeong
sponsor: 1982 Korea Ganesh Himal IV Expedition
ascent1: 4th
approach: Trisuli Bazar->BC
bcdate: 1982-09-19
smtdate: 1982-10-05
smttime: 1430
campsites: BC(19/09,4220m),C1(21/09,5000m),C2(26/09,5700m),C3(01/10,6360m),Smt(05/10)
routememo:
  Lee Sung-Ryul - 19 Oct 82

  Route was South wall direct, right side of French Ridge
  BC 19 Sept 4220m
  C1 21 Sept 5000m on wall
  C2 26 Sept 5700m 
  C3  1 Oct  6360m

  4 Oct 1st attack but not enough fixed rope and took long time so put in more rope and returned. 5 Oct same men went up again and reached top: Ajiwa Sherpa, Dorje Sherpa and Lee Sung-Ryul.
   
  Face was very steep ice wall and thus very difficult. 3500m fixed rope total BC top. Many avalanches between C1 and C2 but did not hurt any Koreans.
   
  1 Sherpa has broken leg falling into crevasse; was trying to climb without fixed rope after avalanche had taken away rope and and he slipped 35m.

  Caravan route difficult. Had to make 6 bridges and Japanese had to make same too.

  No other summit attacks because all had headache from such rapid climb and not acclimatized.


  Ang Gyalgen - 8 Oct 82

  Message he is giving to Tourism:

  5 Oct 2:30 pm on top: 
    Lee Sung-Ryul
    Dorje Sherpa
    Ajiwa Sherpa

  South Face route changed to South Ridge by which succeeded. Stayed 30 minutes on top and took Korean and Nepal flags. 


  Kim - 24 Aug 82

  Ganesh IV cargo coming by sea delayed reaching CCU (Calcutta). Now due to arrive KTM 2-3 Sept and expedition will leave KTM for Ganesh IV 5-6 Sept (they are now in Pokhara).


  Kim - 8 Sept 82
   
  Cargo ship still delayed; now expected in CCU 12 Sept.


  Choi & Joo - 13 Aug 82

  Original plan to repeat Japanese 1978 route, but now think repeat French ascent via South SW Spur up and down SE Ridge/South Face or up South Face to right of French ascent route.

  1 member in CCU, arrives KTM about 17 Aug; another journalist arrives 14 Aug; all others arrived 29 July and 7 Aug.

  Leave KTM about 22 Aug by road to Trisuli and thence on foot to BC in 13-15 days. Arrive BC about 6 Sept.

  1 month to summit, perhaps 2-3 weeks

  BC 4300m
  3 camps above BC: C1 5100m, C2 5800m, C3 6500m
  8 Sherpas above BC
  Medical oxygen only


expid: ANN482301
peakid: ANN4
year: 1982
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Wolfgang Stefan
sponsor: Annapurna IV Expedition
ascent1: 16th
countries: Switzerland, Yugoslavia
bcdate: 1982-10-03
smtdate: 1982-10-17
campsites: BC(03/10,4670m),C1(05/10,5300m),C2(10/10,6000m),C2(14/10,6450m),C3(16/10,6800m),Smt(17/10)
routememo:
  Stefan - 29 Oct 82

  From C3 at 6450m, 1st party went to lesser peak (North Summit [Dome at 7450m]) on Oct 15 (Amstutz, Wehinger and Bell).

  16 Oct moved C3 to 6800m while Yugoslavs to about 7000m.

  17 Oct 3 members went to North Summit and 3 members and 2 Sherpas on to Main summit.

  Route was same NW Ridge route as Germans 1st ascent.


  Alikalfic - 26 Oct 82

  Arrive BC 3 Oct at 4670m at usual site.
  Route = NW Ridge
  C1 - 5300m
  C2 - 6000m just behind ridge
  C3 - 6500m at 1st - then moved upwards to 7000m on 16 Oct.

  Summit 17 Oct by Alikalfic, Bago, Wolfgang, Pemba Lama and Ang Nima.

  Some members 1 Swiss and 2 Austrians (Willi, Bell, Amstutz) went to col behind summit in summit push; started from 6300m too far away on 15 Oct.

  Not difficult climb but problem of snow, dangerous snow, many avalanches; no serious avalanche accidents ,but hard work climbing in deep snow. 

  1 member Bell frostbitten foot.

  No more on top because when 2nd (and only successful) summit party came down it was time to leave mountain.


  Pichler - 21 Sept 82

  By road to Dumre today; 9 days to BC near Hongde airfield in Manang.
  Route probably same as 1st ascent by Steinmetz in spring 1955.
  BC  3800-4000m
  ABC near 4500m
  C1  on shoulder above steep ridge and other camps, not sure how many. 
  3 Sherpas above BC.


  Stefan - 21 Sept 82

  Route probably NW Ridge; from north definitely but exact route will be decided when get to mountain.
  15 members, all leave today.
  9-10 days to BC at about 4000m.
  Probably 3 camps above BC.
  1 or 2 Sherpas above BC.
  Medical oxygen only.
  Return to KTM 29 Oct. 


expid: MAKA82301
peakid: MAKA
year: 1982
route1: W Face-NW Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Adam Bilczewski
sponsor: Polish-Brazilian Himalaya Expedition Makalu 1982
ascent1: 19th
countries: Brazil
approach: Hile->Shipton Pass->Barun Glacier
bcdate: 1982-08-30
smtdate: 1982-10-10
smttime: 1245
termdate: 1982-10-17
campsites: BC(30/08,5400m),C1(02/09,6000m),C2(11/09,6600m),C3(19/09,7100m),C4(07/10,8000m),Smt(10/10)
accidents: Szulc probable heart attack while fixing ropes
routememo:
  Wojciech Kurtyka - 20 Aug 86

  Czok's ridge on Makalu in Oct 1982 was much further to right than Kukuczka's route on West Face in Oct 1981. Czok's was more direct towards summit, Kukuczka's really a spur short-cutting ascent to normal route's C3 to normal route's C3 and thence Kukuczka followed normal route.


  Czok, Glinski and Janusz Skorek - 31 Oct 82

  Polish-Brazilian Makalu

  BC - 5400m - 30 Aug
  C1 - 6000m - 26 Sept
  C2 - 6600m - 11 Sept (all 3 Brazilians reached C2 and no higher)
  C3 - 7100m - 19 Sept
  C4 - 8000m -  7 Oct on the NW Ridge

  Czok alone to top on 10 Oct; had reached C4 with 2 others [Skorek and Machnik] in evening of 7 Oct. [Czok and Skorek] slept using oxygen that night and [all three] 8 Oct tried to go to top but terrible weather wind after one reached 8100m [and Machnik turned back]. Janusz Skorek had frostbitten foot so he and Czok turned back 100m from top. So other 2 went down [to lower camps] while Czok waited for wind to die. Czok slept 2 more nights at C4 in this wait without using oxygen; thus slept 2 nights alone and was entirely alone during days as well. On summit day 10 Oct went to top and then to C3.

  On top found bamboo without flag, which bamboo was covered by snow. 20m below was bare rock where found old oxygen bottle probably originally yellow but now rusted; tied Polish flag to bottle.

  No other summit attempt, all tired.

  Most difficult part was especially above C3 to ridge and also small parts between C2 and C3 and nearly vertical very steep 100m of ice above C2. Szulc was climbing fixed ropes and suddenly man above him realized Szulc not responding. Death probably from altitude effects [or heart attack, Josef Nyka].

  Sirdar went to C1 several times; he only one above BC.
  4 arrived KTM Friday, others come 3 or 4 Nov.
  Brazilians need much more experience, were good on snow only; got only to 6600m.


  Cherrey - 10 Aug 82

  Polish-Brazilian Makalu discussed with Japan Makalu possibility of descending via Japanese route.


  Haim - 5 Aug 82

  Haim and his 2 collegues believe they are first Brazilians to climb in all Himalayas from Pumori east. Haim has searched his alpine climb's records since its founding in 1959; definitely none on Argentina Dhaulagiri teams in 1950's since they were army expeditions.


  Bilczewski & Glinski - 27 July 82

  Polish Makalu
  3 arrived 16 July Polish
  14 to come to Nepal; truck to Biratnagar only
  3-4 Brazilians (including 1 Polish-born)
  2 Poles late Sept and Kukuczka and 1 
  Leave KTM 5-10 Aug. Those in KTM go by bus to Dharan; 18-20 days to BC.
  Route = West Face right side of face, same as Kurtyka's 2 times which reached 
    maximum altitude 7700-8000m, only 70m above rock band (unclimbed route)
  BC probably same place as over half of expedition members have been over 8000m 
  BC about 5300m
  4 camps above BC to bottom of wall at 7800m or so
  Arrive BC about 1 Sept
  Summit about 15 Oct
  Oxygen for climbing in C4; very difficult to use while fixing rope.
  No Sherpas above BC probably although Ang Kami sirdar may get to lower camps
    carrying loads
  Polish-Brazilian Himalaya Expedition Makalu 1982
  Stay in red house on return to KTM.


expid: NGOJ82302
peakid: NGOJ
year: 1982
route1: S Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Park Dong-Gyu
sponsor: 1982 Postmonsoon Season Korea-Nepal Joint Exp to Ngojumba Kang
ascent1: 1st
approach: Lukla->Gokyo Valley
bcdate: 1982-09-26
smtdate: 1982-11-02
smttime: 1730
campsites: BC(26/09,5200m),C1(05/10,5700m),C2(16/10,6450m),C3(27/10,7000m),C4(31/10,7260m),Smt(02/11)
routememo:
  Kim Young-Han - 19 Nov 82

  Planned route very difficult and dangerous. BC was at 5200m, established 26 Sept on Lungsamba Glacier.

  Above BC avalanche from Cho Oyu side very dangerous and covered glacier so could not move above BC on planned route but shifted close to original printed route plan

  C1 - 5700m  Oct 5
  C2 - 6450m  Oct 16
  C3 - 7000m  Oct 27
  C4 - 7260m  Oct 31

  From C4 to top blue ice covered by new snow, very steep, all front-pointing 
  C2-C3 3 days heavy snowfall continually (here big crevasses) 
  C1 to C3 time spent searching good route
  Summit Nov 2 by 2 Sherpas and 1 member as reported by ministry
  Again bad weather after Nov 2 so no more attempts due to snowfall and wind
  Fixed rope used 5000m on all route except only 1/2 C1 to C2; BC to C1 all way; C4 to top 400m.

  French Belgium did not succeed because not enough equipment including rope and not enough food. Between C1 and C2 was hanging glacier and worried about this but not other route.
  No accidents or frostbite
  No oxygen used
  10 Sherpas above BC

  This definitely 1st ascent of main summit. Japanese themselves recognise climb 20 years ago was of Ngojumba II (Ngojumba Central).

  Most difficult climb Kim has ever done; he reached summit 1/2 hour after 2 Sherpas because has a "disease" that prevents his moving fast.


  Sharma, Tourism - 9 Nov 82

  Korean-Nepal Ngojumba - east side
  2 Nov Ang Tshering Sherpa (25) and Dorje Sherpa (25) reached summit 17:30;
  18:00 Kim Young-Han.
  No further attempts
  BC 3 Oct 5200m. 

    
  Chapelle, Belgium -  26 Oct 82

  When left BC 17 Oct Koreans were at perhaps 6800m below C2 west of French-Belgians.

  Kim - 14 Oct 82

  Last 2 members leave KTM in next four days, many RNAC charter cancellations. 9 members are now on mountain and making route to C3.

    
  Kim - 26 Sept 82

  Baggage arrives Birgunj today. Flights to Lukla on 30 Sept to 2 Oct; some members on 30th flight, same (including Kim) on 2nd.

   
  Park, Kim - 29 Aug 82

  Korean route is on South Face to point on ridge west of Ngojumba I
  BC at 5200m or Lungsampa Glacier 
  4 or 5 camps above; with shortage of time may make only 4 with C2 still on face.
  All members arrive BC 5 Oct
  Summit after 40 days climbing - must have extension from HMG
  Ngojumba face very steep (60-65 degrees), 7000m fixed rope
  Pemba Tshering = Nepalese leader (was on Spain Everest expedition)
  3 Nepal members = Sherpas
  8 high altitude Sherpas
  Medical oxygen only
  Advance party leave KTM 3 or 4 Sept, rest about 15 Sept; baggage still at sea.


expid: KGUR82301
peakid: KGUR
year: 1982
route1: W Face-NW Ridge
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Vladimir Mesaric
sponsor: Yugoslav Kang Guru Expedition
ascent1: 7th
approach: Dumre->Marshyangdi Valley->BC
bcdate: 1982-09-30
smtdate: 1982-10-12
smttime: 1500
termdate: 1982-10-16
campsites: BC(30/09,3600m),C1(30/09,4800m),C2(05/10,5800m),C3(11/10,6300m),Smt(12/10)
routememo:
  Mesaric - 24 Oct 82

  Had permit for new route from southeast, but advance party saw approach to southeast impossible for porters without big rich expedition's building trail and bridges, so went to West Ridge same route as Germans (in upper parts found fixed ropes of Japanese).

  BC and C1 established 30 Sept
  BC = 3600m and C1 4800m
  C2 established 5 Oct at 5800m
  C3   "        11 Oct at 6300m
  C3 = highest camp
  Summit on 12 Oct by Mesaric, Bozic and Separovic
  C1-C2 - 100m-120m fixed rope
  Most difficult part = very steep ice, seracs and crevasses just below C3; no ropes here.

  From 6800m Separovic made ski descent and from 6200m Bozic ski descent and from 5300m three more made ski descent to end of snow at about 5000m.

  13 Oct cleared mountain; another summit team ready to go to top decided not to do so for unexplained reason.

  No illness, accident or frostbite.

  3 arrive KTM 23 Oct; another 3 have gone to recce Manaslu for next years climb and 4 to search for Yugoslav who disappeared on Pisang.

   
  Shyam, Tourism - 14 Oct 82

  West route. Started 8:00 am from C3
  12 Oct 3:00 pm summit by 
     Vladimir Mesaric, 1949 
     Branko Separovic
     Stipe Bozic
  Weather good 
  30 minutes on top and ret to C3 at 6300m (established 11 Oct)
  16 Oct leave BC for KTM.

    
  Mesaric & Bozic - 17 Sept 82

  Ski descent from summit if possible in which case route=East Face = new route - couldn't get any photos of this face so not certain of skiing possibility on it. 2 men go in advance to see and if skiing not possible go to Japanese Spr 1982 West Ridge.

  Hope leave 21 Sept by bus to Dumre and then on foot via Marshyangdi to BC which will be on east or west of mountain depending on skiing conditions on East Face (no skiing via West Ridge).

  One fixed camp at least on either route perhaps more depending on conditions on face.
  No Sherpas above BC.
  No oxygen at all unless can buy couple tanks in KTM.


expid: EVER82303
peakid: EVER
year: 1982
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Alexander Verrijn Stuart
approach: Lhasa->Rongbuk Glacier
bcdate: 1982-08-16
smtdate: 1982-10-07
termdate: 1982-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 7850m due to high winds
othersmts: Illegally attempted Changtse (CTSE-823-02)
campsites:
  BC(16/08,5180m),C1(18/08,5600m),C2(22/08,6000m),C3(25/08,6500m),C4(16/09,7000m),C5(05/10,7600m),xxx(07/10,7850m)

routememo:
  Herman Tollenar - 5 Dec 82

  Reached 7800m in 2nd week on Oct via old British route. Hit by violent weather (wind and snow) especially wind and quit. 

  Had avalanche accident just below N Col. Dutchman (Dijk) hit badly and took 4 days to get him down to BC with very great difficulty; 2 crushed ribs which perforated lungs. Expedition lost a week's climbing over this. No one killed. Had no Chinese assistants.

  Differences of route soon ceased when got above N Col and all agreed must go by standard route if they were to succeed at all.


  Denis Bertholat - 29 Sept 82

  2 weeks ago 17-member Dutch expedition had placed C5 above N Col (C4 on col) and were going well despite avalanche injury below/near col to 2 members.

  Younger members wanted to repeat Messner's route while others to use std NE Ridge route.

  Leader = Alexander Verrijn-Stuart.

  Bertholat was at BC 2 weeks ago with Mrs. Boardman and Tasker's girlfriend.


  John Lindemam - 14 Sept 82

  Dutch expedition reached north side of Everest in early September (left Holland in August). A strong national team sure to succeed. (Lindermam has just come from Holland).


expid: CTSE82301
peakid: CTSE
year: 1982
route1: NE Ridge
nation: W Germany
leaders: Eduard Geyer
ascent1: 1st,2nd
approach: Lhasa->Rongbuk Glacier
smtdate: 1982-10-14
termnote: Reached NE Smt (Main)
campsites: BC(5100m),C1(02/10,5600m),C2(6100m),C3(6400m),C4(6900m),Smt(14,16/10)
routememo:
  Changtse (7553m)

  Iwa To Yuki '84 annual

  The mountain is facing Qomolongma with its N Col in between. A W German party from Obersdorf made the first ascent in the autumn of 1982, it was a 10-member party, led by Eduard Geyer, mayor of the city. BC (5100m) was made on Rongbuk Glacier and C1 (5600m) on Oct 2, and C2 (6100m), on 4th week made. The route was taken on E Ridge, gentle but 4 km of length. C3 (6400m) and C4 (6900m) were made, and Udo Zehetleiner got the top on Oct 14, Paul Braun, Rudolf Frick, Ludwig Hosle and Martin Engler also reached the top on 16th.

  Changtse (7553m)

  This peak divides the Rongbuk Glaciers and faces Everest across the North Col. A West German party led by Eduard Geyer, mayor of the town, climbed the peak in 1982 by its East Ridge. From base at 5100m on the Rongbuk Glacier they set up 4 camps, Udo Zehertleitner reached the top on Oct 14, and Paul Braun, Rudolf Frick, Ludwig Hosle and Martin Engler on the 16th.


  Anders Bolinder - 12 Mar 85

  In a letter to EAH, Anders Bolinder states that the leader Tauscher admitted to Bolinder that the team only reached the Eastern summit, not the main summit.

  But, more recently, the NE Summit is now considered the highest of the two summits.


expid: PUTH82301
peakid: PUTH
year: 1982
route1: S Ridge-S Face
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Nicolaas Van Lookeren Campagne
sponsor: Netherlands Putha Hiunchuli South Route Expedition
ascent1: 13th
countries: Luxembourg
bcdate: 1982-10-01
smtdate: 1982-10-14
smttime: 1300
termdate: 1982-10-21
campsites: BC(01/10,4650m),C1(03/10,5300m),C2(05/10,5850m),C3(13/10,6500m),Smt(14/10)
routememo:
  Summit 14th Oct: from C3 6300m 4:00 am; on top 1:00 pm and stayed 25 min and returned 5:00 pm.

  Summiters: 14 Oct:
    Rinus Lamers
    Roland Zeyen
    Ang Temba, 24 

  18th Oct at 4:00 am left C3 and near top 13:30 hrs and returned to C3 same day. Weather was good. Left BC 21 Oct.

  Near Summiters: 18 Oct:
    Miss Fredrick Bloemers
    Claude Zeyen


  Claude & Roland Zeyen - 30 Oct 82

  C1 - at 5300m to 5350m.
  C2 - 5850m established 5 Oct.
  C3 - took time to establish at 6400m with small icefall first which is due to the climb. Others went thru center of it, but Dutch found step towards western side which led to foot of dome. This step of ice which they called "banana" made ascent possible. Then dome required fixing rope and from down a bit and up. C3 established 13th Oct at 6500m after several temp C3's.

  Found other's fixed rope. Route was S Ridge and some on S Face. 18th Oct 2 "summiters" were just below summit (50 to 100m vertically below) hit by jet stream and unable to go all the way to summit. This expedition's last last day unfortunately and only day of bad storm in morning.

  7 Sherpas above BC: 5 did the job and 2 others occasionally climbed. Went very smoothly with no problems, accidents a frostbite.


  Claude Zeyen - 15 Sept 82

  Others arrived 20th Sept.Leave 21 or 22 Sept by road to PKR, walking via Beni and Gurjakhani to Kaphe Khola.

  BC at 4300-4400m, east or northeast of point 5490m on Japanese Dhaulagiri map.

  3 high camps with C3 at 6200m; perhaps cave above this camp which is north of what Germans call the Dome.

  Route = S Ridge to S Face, basically Japanese 1972 route but taking shortcuts on Japanese devious route and going more direct (Germans in 1978 Autumn and 1979 Autumn also). Arrive BC 2 or 3 Oct.

  Summit 15th Oct for first summiters. 
  3 Sherpas above BC and possibly sirdar.
  All home be back in KTM by 29 Oct. 
  2 medical oxygen only (not for climbing or sleeping).


expid: BHRI82301
peakid: BHRI
year: 1982
route1: NW Ridge-N Smt
nation: Austria
leaders: Hans Christian Unger
sponsor: Austrian-Nepalese Bhrikuti Joint Expedition
countries: Nepal
bcdate: 1982-09-20
smtdate: 1982-09-27
termdate: 1982-09-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to route difficulties and avalanche danger
campsites: BC(20/09,4750m),C1(22/09,5350m),C2(23/09,5750m),N-Smt(27/09,6600m)
routememo:
  Pt 6300 first climbed via a NW Ridge leading to it from Tehachang Glacier, then Axt went down and climbed N Summit of Bhrikuti, 6600m; after this peak is a higher peak, c6720m, but a lot of technical problems to go down and up, lot of snow and avalanche danger on ridge so Axt and his Nepali companion came back. 

  2 peaks climbed are on NW Ridge to highest peak. Approach route not the best route: via Naar Khola from south probably better than one via Muktinath which HMG required them to take; 4 days Muktinath to BC.

  BC 4750m - 20 Sept
  C1 5350m - 22 Sept at end of glacier under an iceland
  C2 5750m - 23 Sept

  2 subsidiary summits reached on 26th Sept. Nepali members said must claim ascent of highest peak. Nepal Police cannot fail. Japanese in Spring climbed still another peak, SW of Bhrikuti (found piton in a valley).

  Climbers, but no Sherpas above BC.

  No accidents, frostbite or illness other than lady helicoptered out with altitude sickness.


  Hoellrigl - 1 Oct 82

  Miss Gaar much better today. Sleeping in chair this am out of hospital. Mon/Tuesday and go home with group. Can't remember last 6-7 days and her English is not so fluent as before but German perfectly Ok.


  Hoellrigl - 1 Oct 82

  By helicopter from BC: today Miss Gaar and Dr. Hoellrigl. She became sick 23 Sept and went down from C1 to BC. BC said to Dr. HHoellrigl in C2 by letter and Dr. H came to BC 26th Sept, the day he sickness really began. She spoke only few words to Dr. H., therefore had pulmonary edema; he gave oxygen and infusion and diaretic. Helicopter request sent to Jomsom by 2 policeman on 26th Sept. 27th and 28th Sept she became unconscious. 29th Sept oxygen finished (had used 2 bottles of 900 liters each) and looked as though she would die. No helicopter and no info about it. "We could only hope." Expected she would die but she didn't. Others left BC 30th Sept: in BC only Gaar, Dr. H., one other member, 1 policeman, 1 Sherpa and 2 porters today. Yesterday also infusion (2 bottles day of 500ml/bottles in 5 days used up). "Like a wonder last night she awoke at midnight and told us to take her home to Vienna quickly". Today she got first spoon of tea in 6 days, at BC and at 9 am helicopter arrived; she is in Santa Bhawan and in few days Dr. H. able to take her home.

  BC - established 20th Sept at 4600m
     - same area as Japanese: found some batteries 150m below Austrian BC
  C1 - 22 Sept reached by 12 members at 5350m
  23 Sept 2 members went to C1 at 5850m. Axt to C2 and back to C1 while other 2 slept in C2. Gaar to BC with 2 others.
  24th Sept snowing and no one moved.
  25th Sept one member not well and down to C1, all others in C1 went to C2 leaving Hoellrigl in C1.
  26th Sept Hoellrigl to BC. Axt and Rana went to see route to peak, long distance from C2 and returned to C2.
  27th Sept Axt and Rana to summit and 4 others reached a peak on the way to Bhrikuti. The peak thought from BC to be Bhrikuti, but from this peak could see another 100m higher that is real Bhrikuti.
  28th Sept all down to BC as 29th fixed for leaving BC. 
  All should arrive KTM 11th Oct (arrive PKR 10th Oct).
  Lower Peak reached by 4 members and Axt and Rana on their way to main peak.


  Sharma, Tourism - 1 Oct 82

  Scaled from south side by Nepalese Police and Austrian expedition (5 Nepalis and 15 Austrian) on 26th Sept by 
  1) Gupta Bahadur Rana, subinspector 
  2) Axt climbed Tukuche and Ganesh IV.

  One member, Susanne Gaar, 1944, Vienna became sick from acute high altitude sickness and came today by helicopter and admitted to Santa Bhawan. 
  Vacating BC, established 20 Sept, after success.
  Other camps and BC altitude not known. 


  Chettri, Ministry of Tourism - 1 Oct 82

  Helicopter from BC with doctor.
  Leave BC today or tomorrow.


  Austrian-Nepal Bhrikuti
  Unger - 7 Sept 82

  Hope to leave KTM 9 Sept by road to Pokhara. Want permission for same approach as Japanese in Spr 1982 and reach BC in 13 days [did not receive this permit - via Muktinath].
  7-8 days climbing for 8-10 members; others go to BC and stay there or in last village during climb.
  Route = West Ridge/Face, about same as Japanese Spring 1982
  Plan 2 camps above BC. Axt, famous mountaineer, may skip 2nd camp; best climbing go fast and first, others after them. 
  3 Sherpas above BC
  5 police members
  Medical oxygen only
  Laliguras on return for departure from Nepal on 14 Oct.
  Austrian-Nepalese Bhrikuti Joint Expedition


expid: NILN82302
peakid: NILN
year: 1982
route1: N Face-W Ridge
nation: W Germany
leaders: Hans Tischlinger
sponsor: Kletterklub Berggeier Rosenheim Nilgiri North Autumn 1982 Exped
approach: Pokhara->Kali Gandaki->Tukuche
termnote: Abandoned before arriving at BC
routememo:
  Schmitt - 11 Nov 82

  50-degree steep icefalls much of the way up north, side of Nilgiri North and others 1/2 knife-edge ridge. Much too difficult for them. Too little time, too little gear. Had planned to make alpine-style ascent but after looking from a distance did not even go to BC.

  Had been interested in Annapurna IV but DAV in Germany urged Nilgiri North instead; had seen trekkers' photos from Jomson party. 

   
  Sirdar Ang Pasang, Kharte village - 11 Nov 82

  Leave KTM 19 Oct - arrive Jomsom after 9 days with porters. 2 days in Jomsom then to Muktinath and thence Thorang La and trek around Annapurna. Not to mountain because see then and find there very big mountains. Completely inexperienced; no time for such a climb.

  Arrived KTM yesterday. all 5 members Ok.


  Schmitt - 18 Oct 82

  Leave tomorrow by bus to Pokhara; by foot up Kali Gandaki to Tukuche
  Route = North Face to West Ridge - 1962 Dutch
  About 10 days Pokhara to BC at 4500m
  3 camps above BC
  1 Sherpa above BC
  Have time extension to 15 Nov and will take at least 13 days to top
  No oxygen at all

  Kletterklub Berggeier Rosenheim Nilgiri North Autumn 1982 Exped.
  Flight on 23 Nov out of Nepal so back on 22nd in KTM at Narayani


expid: NUPT82301
peakid: NUPT
year: 1982
route1: N Face
nation: W Germany
leaders: Hans-Burkhard Nix
sponsor: First German Nuptse Expedition
bcdate: 1982-10-07
smtdate: 1982-10-18
termdate: 1982-10-19
termnote: Abandoned on 18 Oct due to danger in Icefall route
campsites: BC(07/10,5300m),C1(14/10,6000m),C2(18/10,6500m),xxx(18/10,6500m)
routememo:
  Pohl - 25 Oct 82

  BC 7 Oct at 5300m, same as Lhotse expedition BC site. Leader arrived
           on 8 Oct because trouble acclimatizing.
  11 Oct - 1st entered icefall when NZ Lhotse still in Cwm; went to 5800m at
           beginning of traverse and back to BC.
  12 Oct - again in Icefall to about 5850m for acclimatization and to see 
           Icefall; next NZ Lhotse descending; again back to BC.
  13 Oct - rest
  14 Oct - 3 up to top of Icefall 6000m and slept there (Pohl stayed
           at BC with diarrhea)
  15 Oct - 3 down to BC
  16 Oct - rest
  17 Oct - all 4 climbers to C1. 3 spent night and 1 returned to BC
           because of headache.
  18 Oct - 3 to C2 at nearly 6500m where Canadian's insulated tent was; 
           returned to C1; Nix and Pohl to BC.
  19 Oct - Kruis also to BC leaving equipment in C1. Decided to stop
           climb because Icefall in very bad condition: 8 ladders, also 
           fixed ropes across 5 crevasses gone and very warm even in early
           am; increasingly warm now. 
  20 Oct - snowfall 

  To make attempt on mountain, need at least 1 week in Cwm and more dangerous at the end to go through Icefall. Not well acquainted with Icefall and it no longer being maintained by anyone.

  When left KTM had hoped Canadians would still be on mountain. To change route no solution: heard Scots had great difficulties on West Ridge, were not prepared for South Face which knew nothing about. Never discussed route change.

  All Ok. Pohl and Guggemos arrived today, other 2 trekking in in Gokyo and returned KTM after 2 weeks. Actually expedition poorly organized in came late, had equipment problems, badly arranged by inexperienced leader.


  Shyam, Tourism - 17 Oct 82

  Abandoned 16 Oct because of danger in Icefall route. Went into Icefall same distance. 19 Oct leave BC to KTM.  


  Nix, et al - 14 Sept 82

  Arrived 13th Sept, leave soon as possible. 5 members arrive BC about 1 Oct at 5200m. ABC near Everest C2 6300m. Alpine-style up North Face, 2-3 bivs. Probably follow Scott's line or perhaps left of Scott's icefall. May use fixed ropes especially in icefall.
  No Sherpas above BC
  No oxygen at all or perhaps 1 medical bottle
  1st German Nuptse Expedition
  Begin climb on face about 10 Oct. Maximum 3 days up and 1 biv in descent
  Probably stay at Everest Cottage on return (near KC's restaurant).


expid: TILI82301
peakid: TILI
year: 1982
route1: NE Spur-N Ridge-N Face
nation: W Germany
leaders: Guenther Haerter
sponsor: German Tilicho Expedition
ascent1: 9th
countries: Austria
bcdate: 1982-10-11
smtdate: 1982-10-17
smttime: 1540
termdate: 1982-10-24
campsites: BC(11/10,4900m),C1(14/10,5850m),C2(15/10,6200m),Smt(17/10)
accidents: Welsch has some frostbite and will lose little of toe
routememo:
  Haerter - 2 Nov 82

  BC 4900m - 11 Oct
  C1 5850m - 14 Oct
  C2 6200m - 15 Oct

  Summit 17 Oct as given by Ministry of Tourism except Welsch and Ang Pasang on top at 4:30 pm. All 5 men left C2 at 8:00 am. Was long day but no safe place for a C3: from C2 to top was avalanche danger.

  Route = NE Spur to West Ridge to North Face.

  Another summit try on 22 Oct by 5 men but turned back from 6800m because of wind.

  3rd try: 23-24 night lot of snow which covered C2 so 6 occupants could not make summit bid on 24th. 3rd group member fell 10m on fixed rope between C2 and C1 and broke ribs.

  Welsch has same frostbite and will lose little of toe.
  No oxygen used. 4 Sherpas went above BC.
  Left mountain on 24th. 


  Sharma, Tourism - 24 Oct 82

  Tilicho 7132m, normal route on North Face. Summit 17 Oct.
  C1 - 14 Oct 5850m
  C2 - 15 Oct 6200m

  Summit from C2 at 8:00 am, arrived 3:40-45 pm by Hirtreiter, Haerter, and Ang Dorje and other 2 at 4:00. Planted West Germany and Nepal flags. 7:00 pm all in C2 and all well; others will attempt summit. 


  Haerter - 25 Sept 82

  Route = North Ridge from NE Spur, Swiss autumn 1980 route.
  14 members here and leave KTM 27 Sept and return KTM 2-3 Nov. By road to Dumre and then up Marshyangdi to Manang Village to BC near Tilicho Lake at 4800m. Arrive BC 5 or 6 Oct.
  2 camps above BC, C2 about 6300m
  Summit about 20 Oct
  4 Sherpas above BC including Messner's Ang Dorje as sirdar
  Medical oxygen only
  Commercial climb


expid: GAN482301
peakid: GAN4
year: 1982
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Shigeru Nakada
sponsor: Shinshu University Ganesh III and IV Expedition 1982
approach: Gorkha->Arughat->Yaru Khola
bcdate: 1982-09-17
smtdate: 1982-10-18
termdate: 1982-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to bad weather and 4 members sick
othersmts: Had permit for Ganesh II (GAN2-823-01)
campsites: BC(17/09,4300m),C1(28/09,5060m),C2(16/10,5800m),xxx(18/10,6200m)
routememo:
  Nakada - 13 Nov 82
  Ganesh III & IV

  BC - 4300m - 17 Sept
  C1 - 5060m - 28 Sept
  C2 - 5800m - 16 Oct
  Made deposit site between BC and C1.

  When made C1 are important. Dr Oneda fractured legs in roll 25 Sept and could not climb until 11 Oct. Another important member Kato sick (cold) and their climbing stopped. Other members load-carriers only, so no route-making until 11 Oct. C2 established 16 Oct and 2 days later site for C3 reached at 6200m right under a small peak. Nakada and all others except doctor reached this point.

  4 members sick then and no more climbing. Decided to give up on 22 Oct because sick and bad weather: much snow and strong wind.

  Aim was to climb Ganesh IV by NE Ridge and then Ganesh III.
  All returned KTM 11 Nov. All well now: recovered on return march.
  Route is very safe, but very long and difficult rock and ice. Put in 3000m fixed rope and very safe: all route was fixed from deposit site to C3 site.


  Sharma, Tourism - 3 Nov 82

  SE Ridge, North Ridge

  C2 Oct 16 for Ganesh IV 5800m but because bad weather 22 Oct abandoned. Climb got no higher than C2 on Ganesh IV. Only 8 days tiime left so shortage of time also gives as reason. Left BC. 

  Sharma, Tourism -  27 Sept 82

  Japanese Ganesh expedition made BC at 4300m on 17 Sept and start climbing Ganesh IV on 19 Sept.


  Nakada - 30 Aug 82

  Nakada was on Ganesh III in spring 1980.

  7 arrived KTM 24 Aug - leave KTM 1 Sept by road to Gorkha. Caravan from Arughat to Yaru Khola. 10 days caravan from Gorkha to BC. 
  BC at 4500m on right side of Glacier at top of Yaru Khola.
  Route = West Face to South Ridge of Ganesh III (same as in spring 1980) but start climb with Ganesh IV.

  From BC first go around glacier where BC is (top or east end of glacier) to col on South Ridge of Ganesh III. On col will be C3 at 6300m then to Ganesh IV via this ridge leading away from Ganesh III to junction with NE Ridge of Ganesh IV, a route to Ganesh IV no one has tried before.

  7 days from col (C3) to Ganesh IV summit and back to Col. Then to Ganesh III from col via South Ridge to col in 10 days.

  Arrive BC about 11 Sept and start climb about 15 Sept
  Arrive Col (C3) 30 Sept 
  Ganesh IV summit 7 Oct
  Ganesn III summit 20-23 Oct, after rest at BC following Ganesh IV summit
  No Sherpas above BC.
  Medical oxygen only (2 hours only).


expid: ANN182302
peakid: ANN1
year: 1982
route1: N Face (Dutch Rib)
nation: Japan
leaders: Susumu Akamatsu
sponsor: Yeti Dojin Annapurna I Expedition 1982
bcdate: 1982-10-03
smtdate: 1982-10-16
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to fatal avalanche
campsites: BC(03/10,4100m),C1(05/10,4850m),C2(10/10,5400m),C3(16/10,6200m),xxx(16/10,6200m)
accidents: 2 killed by avalanche at C2
routememo:
  Ozaki - 23 Oct 82

  BC established at 4100m by other 2 members on 3 Oct and Ozaki arrived 6 Oct.
  C1 - 5 Oct at 4850m.
  C2 - 10 Oct at 5400m about 100m to side of site where accident. 
  C2 - moved to very safe place Oct 11 after 1st C2 place moved because realized 
       1st site not safe.
  C3 - 16 Oct at 6200m and all equipment carried up there by 3 Japanese after Ozaki 
       alone made route and fixed rope since others not strong and very slow; they 
       were not acclimatized.

  1 Sherpa above BC arrived from C1 to C2 and then left expedition.

  17 Oct Ozaki and thus carried to C3 and returned to C2. Planned 18 Oct all move to C3 but other 2 not so strong and decided 1 day next at C2.

  18 Oct at 4:00 am in dark, avalanche struck C2. Blocks of ice 5m x 5m and snow came in not so big avalanche; blocks broke 2 men's tent and snow covered 1m deep while Ozaki's tent partly broken and little covered by snow. Ozaki called out and no response so got out quickly and dug in snow about 1-1/2 hours; found their bodies in tent moved maybe 1m. Ozaki waited for 7:00 am walkie-talkie radio contact with BC Sherpas and then went to C1 totally unharmed to meet Passang Norbu, an experienced man. 1 Sherpa there who came up from BC. At 6:00 am light snowfall. Face very dangerous above C1 and too dangerous to go to C2. They packed up C1 and both descended ot BC same day in afternoon and after eating left BC and biv in Mristi Khola that night.

  19 Oct continued trek towards Jomsom which reached 21 Oct; flew Jomsom/Pokhara/KTM 22 Oct. 

  Plan 18 Oct Ozaki and others from C1 to C3. 19 Oct Ozaki to make C4 at about 6950m alone and go to summit alone 20 Oct.

  No oxygen at all.

  4 Nov families of dead members arrived KTM and Ozaki goes with them by plane or helicopter along side of Annapurna. 2 from Akamatsu family (maybe father and mother) and 1 from Ono (who don't know). Ozaki returned to Japan with them about 10 Nov.

  Should go to Everest winter, but "my heart is broken" though body and spirit very good." This winter [stay] in Japan.


  Sharma, Tourism - 21 Oct 82

  Abandoned because death of leader 
    (1) Susumu Akamatsu, 1953 of Kawasaki, and
    (2) Miki Ono, 1952.

  On Oct 18 at about 4:00 am while at C2, snow avalanche covered C2 and they were buried. No information regarding recovery of bodies or camp found. One remaining member is well, Takashi Ozaki, 1952.


  Ozaki - 28 Sept 82

  500m fixed rope for Dutch Rib section.
  Highest camp at 7000-7100m.
  Other members no Himalayan experience.
  Ozaki solo to top from highest camp which may be C3 or C4.
  Ozaki leaves for BC 28 Sept, and arrive BC after 10 days.
  2 Sherpas above BC.
  No oxygen at all.
  Hope summit 25 Oct (2 weeks on mountain).


  Akamatsu - 21 Sept 82

  2 arrive KTM 16 Sept, leave 22 Sept to Pokhara by bus
  12 days to BC, arrive about 5 Oct 
  BC at 4000m
  Route = North Face, Dutch route 
  4 camps above BC 
  C4 at 7000m or higher if possible 
  Summit 20 Oct-30 Oct
  1 Sherpa above BC 
  No oxygen at all.

  Yeti Dojin Annapurna I expedition
  Ozaki in KTM 25 Sept and joins others at BC


expid: MAKA82302
peakid: MAKA
year: 1982
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kazuo Yuda
sponsor: Sangaku Doshikai Makalu Expedition 1982
ascent1: 18th
approach: Tumlingtar->Shipton Pass->Barun Glacier
bcdate: 1982-08-31
smtdate: 1982-09-30
smttime: 1630
campsites: BC(31/08,5160m),C1(02/09,5800m),C2(07/09,6320m),C3(12/09,7050m),C4(20/09,7850m),Smt(30/09)
routememo:
  Yuda - 16 Oct 82

  Other members arrive KTM today or tomorrow; all Ok.
  BC 31 Aug  5160m
  C1  2 Sept 5800m
  C2  7 Sept 6320m
  C3 12 Sept 7050m
  C4 20 Sept 7850m

  Route to North Ridge more direct than standard route.
  C1 east and little south of point 6170 on Schneider map at south end of Chago Glacier.
  C2 due east of "a" in Chago Glacier on 2nd spur/ridge east of glacier.
  C3 west-southwest from Makalu Col in 3rd from top of small west-east spurs.
  C4 near 7800m contour line on Makalu's North (really NNW) Ridge.
  No oxygen used in climbing or sleeping.


  Yuda - 15 Oct 82

  30 Sept at 16:30 hours 3 members to summit: 
    Kazuo Yuda
    Dr. Yukihiro Michiwaki
    Makoto Ishibashi

  North Ridge, not to Makalu La, new variation. Weather bad on summit day, but climbers in good condition.
  C4 7850m South attack camp; started climb 6:00 am. 2-3 minutes on top because
    strong wind driving snow; returned C4 7:00 pm
  19 Sept same 3 to C3 
  29 Sept C4

  2 others not so strong so did not attempt top.
  Yuda arrived 14th; others arrive 17th.
  Yuda slight frostbite toes one foot.
  Their route direct.


  Onomura & Yuda - 31 July 82

  2 arrived 29 July and 3 will come 1 Aug, leave KTM 11 Aug by air to Tumlingtar
  Route = North Ridge

  Do not go to Makalu Col, but climb from narrow north spur of Baruntse Glacier up ridge running south-southwest of Col and thence make horseshoe turn onto North (NNW) Ridge at 7600m

  BC at 5300m (at "r" in Baruntse Glacier in Schneider map)
  3 or 4 camps above BC, probably 3, highest at 7600m

  Most difficult part of climb is just below 7600m, where get onto North Ridge, very steep: 6.9 rock and ice mixed. Plan put last camp at top of this section, where reach North Ridge.

  Oxygen medical only
  3 Sherpas above BC
  Arrive BC 1 Sept 
  Summit 10 Oct


expid: DHA182302
peakid: DHA1
year: 1982
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Ken Kanazawa
sponsor: Takamatsu City Workers Dhaulagiri I Expedition
ascent1: 20th
bcdate: 1982-09-22
smtdate: 1982-10-17
smttime: 1200
campsites: BC(22/09,4650m),C1(27/09,5700m),C2(03/10,6650m),C3(15/10,7500m),Smt(17/10)
routememo:
  Kanazawa - 29 Oct 82

  2 arrived 26 Oct, others arrive 4 or 5 Nov.

  BC 22 Sept at 4650m
  C1 27 Sept at 5700m
  C2  3 Sept at 6650m
  C3 15  Oct at 7500m
  (reached 9th but then long rest at BC)

  Summit 17 Oct by Mitani at 12:00 and Tanaka 14:15. No oxygen used.

  Kanazawa not on top because getting frostbitten finger and as dentist cannot lose finger. Not difficult but very big mountain and only 3 camps. Some avalanches from Tukuche side though no one hurt. Summit party found bamboo pole on top and left Mitani's oven glove and Taneka's Japanese cigarettes. Maybe other Japanese went to top plateau and not actual summit because they did not find pole and oven glove.

  Sherpas caught colds and sirdar slept in BC so Japanese had to carry loads. 
  1 member frostbitten right foot but may not lose toe. If used oxygen probably not frostbitten. No others on top because Sherpas not carrying and long way between camps.


  Sharma, Tourism - 21 Oct 82

  Takamatsu Dhaulagiri I, NE Ridge

  Summit 17 Oct by
    1) Toichiro Mitani, 1956, Kagawa, businessman
    2) Junichi Taneka, 1952, Tokyo, businessman

  Mitani at top 12:00; Taneka at top 14:15


  Kanagawa - 29 Aug 82

  All 5 members arrived 
  Leave KTM 31 Aug or 1 Sept by road to Pokhara
  Arrive BC 20 Sept
  BC 4700m
  3 camps above BC
  Route = NE Ridge = standard route
  2 Sherpas above BC
  No oxygen at all
  Summit 20 Oct - or 20-25 Oct
  Takamatsu Dhaulagiri I Expedition 
  Chose Dhaulagiri I as his 1st 8000er because wanted beautiful mountain not requiring 2-3 months.


expid: KARY82301
peakid: KARY
year: 1982
route1: W Ridge
route2: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Yoshiyuki Inoue
sponsor: Nepal Police-Hyogo Worker's Alpine Federation Joint Exped
ascent2: 1st,2nd
countries: Nepal
approach: Kirantichap->BC
bcdate: 1982-10-09
smtdate: 1982-10-31
smttime: 1345
termdate: 1982-11-04
campsites: BC1(02/10,4500m),BC2(09/10,4800m),C1(15/10,5300m),C2(28/10,5900m),Smt(31/10,01/11)
routememo:
  1st BC - 4500m, 2 Oct - for West Ridge
  2nd BC - 4800m, 9 Oct - for NE Face

   
  Iwasa - 11 Nov 82

  Route was West Ridge. BC at 4500m on 2 Oct. No C1 on this route. Went to 5200m scouting route and decided rock band on buttress 200m overhang too difficult.

  2nd BC at 4800m on 9 Oct for NE Face
  C1 5300m - 15 Oct
  C2 5900m - 28 Oct

  Difficulties: blue ice climbing icefall between C1 and C2 and much new snow very deep (waist) many avalanches between C1 and C2 so always crossed this area early am. Inoue hit by avalanche tried for summit on 30 Oct and reached 6400m in smaller summit party but could not go on. Next day brought more support.


  Sharma, Tourism - 9 Nov82

  2nd ascent by Nov 1 head constable Karma Bahadur Gurung '54 and 5 Japanese: Fujii, Nakao, Miss Nishimura, Makahara

  Left BC 4 Nov
  C2 28 Oct 5600m 

    
  Fujii & Nakao - 8 Nov 82

  1st BC at 4500m near 4593 and Dudh Kund Lake (southwest of mountain) in Sept
  2nd BC 4800m east of mountain 9 or 10 Oct
  C1 - 5300m, 15 or 16 Oct
  C2 - 5950m, 27 or 28 Oct
  Route NE Face
  Summit - 31 Oct - 8 men as ministry said

  1 Nov - Fujii
          Nakahara
          Nakao
          Miss Nishimura
          Miss Yuda
          Col. Gurung

  Summiters = all 8 Japanese members and all 5 Nepalese climbing members (6th=doctor). Much snow made difficult and icefall had many crevasses, some avalanches which sent 1 Inoue member 10m down fixed ropes but Ok. 
  No accidents on frostbite.
  3 Sherpas above BC.
  28 and 29 Oct route making up blue ice and waist deep snow
  Inoue left KTM 2-3 days ago - other 5 will arrive KTM tomorrow ex-Lukla.


  Sharma, Tourism - 3 Nov 82

  Karyolung (formerly unclimbed). Route changed to NE Ridge from South Ridge because of difficulties in placing camps on South Ridge.

  C1, 17 Oct - 5000m
  C2, 28 Oct - 5600m
  29th worked on route
  Attempted summit on 30 Oct but high wind returned to C2, who don't know. 
  31 Oct. 1)  Co-leader Yogendra Thapa, police inspector, 34 years
          2)  Baburam Pun, inspector
          3)  Hiroshi Nishie, '59
          4)  Leader Yoshiyuki Inoue
          5)  Masatoshi Iwasa, '54

  Time from C2 not known.

  On summit 13:45 hours. Police put Khukuri on top and party put flags of Nepal and Japan. Returned to C2  and all others to BC same day - 4 arrive BC 20:00 hours.

  31 Oct  1) Havildar Gore Tamang, '52, head constable
          2) Gita Bahadur Joshi, head constable
          3) Sirdar Pemba Tshering Sherpa

  Reached summit also in second assault - time not known; another attempt expected.
   
  1 Nov - remaining member left C2 in am to summit but results not known at BC.
   

  Ale, Tourism - 8 Oct 82

  2 Oct near Dudh Kund 4200m BC.
  Will start climb from 3 Oct but facing route problem and will need extra time or to change route to NE Face.


  Iwasa & Nakahara - 18 Sept 82

  7 members now in KTM - 
    2-11 Sept
    5-17 Sept
  1 will come 5 Oct - leader Inoue
  7 leave 20 Sept by truck to Kirantichap - 8 days to BC at 4000-4300m on Dudh Kund glacier
  route = SW Ridge or North Ridge - both rock ridges, very steep (maybe 45') - difficult mountain
  2 camps above BC - C2 about 6200m
  6 Nepalese members from police
  3 Sherpas above BC
  Med oxygen only
  Arrive BC about 27 Sept
  Summit last week Oct - 1 month BC to top
  Hotel Shangri La on return to KTM early Nov. Inoue arrive KTM 3 or 4 Nov, others few days later.

   
  Shiro Kurouchi - 10 Aug 82

  Route maybe from west - Nepalese member now doing recce - back in KTM in few days
  12 + Japanese and 6 Nepalis - Yogendra Thapa
  ? Sherpas - Nepalis decide
  KTM to BC about 1 week including truck to Jiri
  Leave KTM 23-24 Sept = 1 month to climb
  Nepal '75 attempt only attempt on Karyolung
  Kurouchi only Japanese in KTM (arrived 8/10) - returns to Japan soon and back to KTM with other Japan members 10 Sept.


expid: LSIS82301
peakid: LSIS
year: 1982
route1: S Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Shozo Terakawa
sponsor: Shiga Worker's Alpine Federation 1982 Expedition to Langshisa Ri
ascent1: 3rd-5th
approach: Trisuli Bazar->Langtang Valley
bcdate: 1982-09-23
smtdate: 1982-10-06
smttime: 1200
termdate: 1982-10-13
campsites: BC(23/09,4500m),C1(27/09,5500m),C2(29/09,5700m),Smt(06-07,09/10)
routememo:
  Otsuka - 19 Oct 82

  C2 29 Sept at 5700m was last camp.
  All ministry camp and summit information correct.
  Route = South Face, same route as spr 1982 Japanese Nagoya.

  Every day good weather and so easy climb but every day danger from falling seracs, however no damage done by seracs. 1100m fixed rope put in, all above C2 to summit which was fixed in early days of Oct (all members then stayed in C1) to 50m below summit by 5 Oct. 

  No accident, illness, frostbite.

  Most difficult part was 200-300m ice face to 5900m, then 100m rock face. All returned today.

  Very lucky with weather: on march in snowed every day and after climb again bad weather, but through out climb weather very good.


  Shyam, Tourism - 14 Oct 82

  6 Oct summit by:
    Shozo Terakawa, Leader
    Hidao Sibata, deputy
    Hiromu Nakai
    Yusinobu Asimoto
    Tokumi Iguchi
    Masayuki Ishizuka

  Started from 5700m C2 at 4:00 am and reached top 12 noon, stayed 60 minutes and took photos, returned 16:50 pm at C2.

  7 Oct - started 3:00 am from C2 and on top 10:23 am:
    Miss Kumika Imamura
    Mrs Shyoko Sakamoto
    Sirdar Ang Phuri Lama, 34
    Dawa Sherpa, 34

  Stayed 37 minutes on top and took photos and arrived C2 14:00 hours

  9th Oct
    Jiro Otsuka climber
    Akio Shimizu
    Tomoyoshi Takehara

  Left C2 4:40 am and on top at 7:58 am, stayed 2 hours and took photos, arrived C2 11:15 am.

  Weather was very good 
  All arrive BC 9 Oct - 17 hours
  Would leave BC 13 Oct says LO message of 10 Oct.

   
  Otsuka - 5 Sept 82

  5 now in KTM - 9 Sept 7 will arrive. 
  Leave KTM 13 Sept by road to Trisuli Bazar. 10 days caravan to Langtang Khola to BC including 2 days acclimatization before BC. 

  BC due south of Langshisa Ri at some place or 82' spr
  route = South Face - same as '82 spr - this route difficult but others more so
  BC 4500m - arrive 22 Sept
  C1 5500m
  C2 5800m
  Summit after 3 weeks climb 
  2 HA Sherpas
  Med oxygen only
  Shiga Worker's Alpine Federation 1982 Expedition to Mt Langshisa Ri


expid: KHAT82301
peakid: KHAT
year: 1982
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Masaru Otani
sponsor: Hokkaido Mt. Khatang Expedition 1982
ascent1: 1st-3rd
approach: Kirantichap->BC
bcdate: 1982-10-08
smtdate: 1982-10-30
smttime: 0907
campsites: BC(08/10,4780m),C1(12/10,6370m),C2(18/10,5730m),C3(26/10,6310m),Smt(30-31/10)
routememo:
  Sharma, Tourism - 9 Nov 82

  Khatang NE Ridge
  Khatang climbed by NMA in 1975 summit 30 Oct 
    Dorje Sherpa, 22
    T. Kawamura
    Y. Kitayama 
  at 9:07 hours without oxygen. Very windy at top. Started 6:00 am from C3 6310m. left top 9:37 am, arrived at C1 13:00 hours.

  31 Oct  - K. Kimura
            H. Sato
            C. Watanabe

  31 Oct  - K. Koyama
            S. Sawada
            T. Ono
            A. Kamegai


  Otani - 8 Nov 82

  BC 8 Oct 4780m at southeast end of Tsho Og lake
  Route = NE Ridge
  Climbed quickly. 21 and 22 Oct much snow. 4 days climbing stopped.
  No avalanches. Route was north of avalanche areas and very safe to ridge and on on ridge.

  Ridge very steep knife ridge C2 to C3, but deep snow made climbing very difficult, 45-degree steepness. C3 to top 25-30 degrees.

  No accidents, but Miss Kinoshita left because altitude sickness. No frostbite.

  30 Oct left 6:00 am from C3 and top 9:07 am. Good weather, but strong wind and very cold (-25 degrees), stayed 30 mins: raised Japanese and Nepalese flags and took photos, returned C1 at 1:30 pm.

  31 Oct: 1st party summiters from C3 6:00 am; top at 10:00 am (five days, so took many pix), returned to C1 2:15 pm.

  31 Oct 2nd summiters from C2 8:15 am, C3 8:00 am, top at 11:45 am; returned C2 3:30 pm.

  No ladies on top. Ridge very difficult. Mrs Yasuda little sick and Miss Kinoshita left very happy. Mt Khatang last year opened new mountain and first summit in world. "This record very happy."

  Following this mountain success Nepalese cooperateed very well.

  Hokkaido Workers Alpine Federation have another expedition to Nepal (mountain not decided) and Otani may be come again.

  4 now in KTM - all 9 others arrive tomorrow (11 already gone home)
  3 Sherpas including sirdar Tendi above BC.


  Kamegai & Sato - 18 Sept 82

  8 members now in KTM, arrived 15 and 17 Sept and leave 21 Sept; other 6 arrive 1 Oct and join first 8 at BC via flight to Lukla.
  BC at point 4800m northeast of Khatang on Schneider map near Lake Tsho Og.
  Route = South NE Ridge - very difficult knife ridge
  Last year 2 members on recce 
  Go by road to Kirantichap, arrive in BC 8 Oct
  3 camps above BC, C3 at 6400m
  Icefall between BC and C1; C1 at 5600m
  C2 not sure altitude of C2.

  Hokkaido Mountain Khatang Expedition 1982
  From Hokkaido Workers Alpine Federation
  3 Sherpas above BC
  Summit end Oct
  4 medical oxygen only


expid: DHA182301
peakid: DHA1
year: 1982
route1: N Face-NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Norio Sasaki
sponsor: Kamoshika Dojin Dhaulagiri I Expedition 1982
ascent1: 21st
approach: Pokhara->Tukuche->Dhampus Pass
bcdate: 1982-09-21
smtdate: 1982-10-18
smttime: 1130
termdate: 1982-10-24
accidents: 3 members hit by avalanche on 26 Sept
campsites:
  BC(21/09,4600m),C1(22/09,5200m),C2(29/09,6000m),C3(02/10,6800m),C4(07/10,7200m),C5(11/10,7550m),C6(16/10,7750m),Smt(18/10)

routememo:
  Yamada - 10 Nov 82

  Dhaulagiri I (Pear route)

  2 arrived yesterday - all other arrives this afternoon
  BC - 21 Sept - 4600m
  C1 - 22 Sept - 5200m
  C2 - 29 Sept - 6000m
  C3 -  2 Oct  - 6800m
  C4 -  7 Oct  - 7200m
  C5 - 11 Oct  - 7550m
  C6 - 16 Oct  - 7750m

  Accident: not so big snow avalanche hit Yagihara, Miyazaki and Murakami climbing at 5400m on 26 Sept. They fell 150m. 2 men are Ok, but Yagihara's leg broken and forearm cut by ice axe. Yagihara stayed at BC rest of expedition and walking out with ski poles.

  Not many avalanches; only 1 accident.
  Route: at Pear itself climbed right side as some others have done.
  Not much news about present expedition's route. 

  17th Oct 1st summit attack, but no success because still making route and time ran out. Takahashi, Matsunaga and Murakami reached 8000m.

  18 Oct Yamada, Komatsu and Saito to top and stayed about 1 hour; returned to C6 about 2:30 pm.

  All 6 summit party members used oxygen from C6 to top (or 8000m) and sleeping in C6.

  Weather not so good weather on north side; snow mornings also.

  Difficult 7500m to top, rock ridge very sharp with 3 rock pinnacles.

  4900m fixed rope BC to top expedition succeeded because large team of climbers meant some resting while others doing difficult work making route at highest altitudes.

  18 members and 7 Sherpas above BC.

  Sure reached highest point on mountain (normal route team doubted). Yagihara after all was there before in 1978 and this time it was clear.


  Sharma, Tourism - 24 Oct 82

  Japanese Dhaulagiri I, Pear route, 9th expedition
  Summit reached from C6 at 7950m (established 17 Oct)
  After established C6 on 17 Oct attempted summit : 
    1) Takahashi Yoshiteru, 1943, Tokyo, co-staff 
    2) Yukio Matsunaga, 1948, Numatashi, co-employer 
    3) Kazumari Murakami, 1955, Tokyo, co-employee
  Failed to reach top and returned to C6.

  18 Oct: 
    1) Noboru Yamada (already climbed Dhaulagiri I in 1978), 1950, Numata sports 
       shop owner
    2) Kozo Komatsu, 1954, Tokyo
    3) Yasuhira Saito, 1953, Nagoya, designer
  From C6 at 6:00 am using oxygen. At 11:30 am on summit, stayed 45 mins and took photos while snowing on summit. 12:06 started descent to C6, 14:25 reached C6.

  All are well. No more attempts.


  Ale, Tourism - 8 Oct 82

  26 Sept Kuniaki Yagihara, Tsutomu Miyazaki, Kazunari Murakami started at 9:00 am from C1 to C2. Hit by avalanche and fell 160m. Yagihara's right wrist 7-inch wound and right leg hit and being treated. When he is Ok climbing will resume.

  29 Sept C2 at 6030m by Noboru Yamada, Akuzawa, Yasuhira Saito and Yashio.


  Shibuya - 22 Sept 82

  Toshio Shibuya came by helicopter from Jomsom yesterday. 
  1st members arrive BC 9 Sept; 21 Sept all members in BC except Dr.
  Toshio arrived Tukuche 11 Sept, stayed until 16th when went to Jomsom and asked for helicopter because fever and cough.
  Today fever down and no cough, will go to BC with mailrunner who comes to KTM 27 Sept.
  All others Ok.


  Sasaki - 24 Aug 82

  17 in KTM - 1 more arrive 2 or 3 Sept. 
  Leave KTM 26 Aug by road to Pokhara. Leave Pokhara 27 Aug. Caravan to 
    Tukuche 8 days. 
  Acclimatization climbing in Dhampus Peak, then 2 days Dhampus Pass to BC.
  BC 4600m in usual site.
  Route = Pear route; route variation on face between C3 and C4 depending on snow 
    and 6 camps above BC with C6 at 7800m
  Arrive BC 25 Sept
  Summit 25 Oct
  7 Sherpas above BC including sirdar Pemba Norbu
  Oxygen for sleeping in C5 and C6.


expid: EVER82301
peakid: EVER
year: 1982
route1: Lho La-W Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Lluis Belvis Del Rio
sponsor: Catalan Expedition to Everest
bcdate: 1982-08-11
smtdate: 1982-10-14
termdate: 1982-10-21
termnote: Abandoned on 14 Oct due to death of Sherpa Nima Dorje & bad weather
campsites:
  BC(11/08,5350m),C1(29/08,6050m),C2(17/09,6770m),C3(21/09,7140m),C4(06/10,7540m),C5(13/10,8100m),xxx(14/10,8500m)

routememo:
  Anglada - 2 Nov 82

  BC: 1st group 11th and 2nd 14th Aug - C1 route - high point 8500m. Windy, very very cold, carrying 20 kg oxygen, etc., and technical difficulty of route. Very long route meant they were really tired.

  Summit team [Cadiach, Perez Gil and Nima Dorje] should have left C5 at 8100m at about 1:30 am on 14 Oct but had to wait for light because so cold. All batteries dead including headlamps so actually left C5 at 4:00 am. Reached 8500m and climb got more difficult and wind stronger and stronger and saw could not reach top that day and biv in that wind and cold not safe. 

  Nima Dorje was not meant for summit bid but replaced Sherpa Phurba who got sick. Nima Dorje didn't not rope himself to others. Decided to go down by himself at almost same high point. He was alone and snow was dangerous. Fell down to Rongbuk Glacier where buried him.

  Route West Ridge via Hornbein Couloir up and down, route all on Chinese side actually. Expedition delayed by (1) sick Sherpa who died and funeral held and (2) huge rock tower big as a cathedral came off below Lho La one morning at 5:00 o'clock. These 10-14 days lost caused expedition the summit.

  Much worked very well and avoided Sherpas carrying loads on 50m vertical section below Lho La.

  All members Ok. One summit team member has slightly frostbitten fingers.
  20 Sherpas to Lho La or higher and 1 cook at C1.

  Will come again to West Ridge perhaps Spring 1986.


  Shyam, Tourism - 17 Oct 82

  Climb abandoned 14 Oct because of death of Nima Dorje and bad weather. All in BC tomorrow and leave BC 21 Oct.

  Summit team: Oscar Cadiach and Xavier Perez Gil were with Nima Dorje and reached 8500m.


  Ale, Tourism - 14 Oct 82

  12:45 am today 3 men started from C5: Nima Dorje Sherpa, 22, and 2 members when reached 8500m at 10:30 today Nima Dorje slipped from rock and fell 300m. Corpse not found but search continues. Other two are Ok, but names not revealed and return to C5 not known at BC whether expedition continues or ends.

  Expedition says [Nima Dorje] presumed dead.


  Ale, Tourism - 13 Oct 82

  C5 8100m 12 Oct by big sirdar Shambu Tamang and 2 Sherpas.
  Today 2 members and Nima Dorje will sleep there.
  Tomorrow these 3 will try for summit.
  Today clear and no wind in BC.


  Ale, Tourism - 8 Oct 82

  6 Oct 4 members pitched C4 7530m and slept there.
  7-8 Oct they will go to rescue route to C5.
  Before 5 Oct summit target date.


  Sharma, Tourism - 8 Oct 82

  Will fix ropes and pitch tents at C4 today and descend to C3.


  Sharma, Tourism - 28 Sept 82

  Lhakpa Tshering Sherpa, 38, of Namche, HA porter, died yesterday at C2 at 1:30 pm. He was complaining of stomach pain, vomited at noon and died. Body to BC today (arrive BC 3:00 pm) and tomorrow to relatives. 

  Expedition still making route to C4 today.


  Shyam, Tourism - 22 Sept 82

  3 members stayed at C3 last night and making route above C3 today.


  Sharma, Tourism - 20 Sept 82

  Leader to BC to C1

  C3 to be occupied from tomorrow not today by members and Sherpas; only 2 members in BC tonight.


  Shyam, Tourism - 20 Sept 82

  Established C3 yesterday 3:00 pm at 7200m near top of W Shoulder by 5 members who put 3 tents. All returned to C2 yesterday. Today same 5 go back to C3 and stay there tonight. C4 after 7 days. All in good health.


  Sharma, Tourism - 19 Sept 82

  5 members only went to establish C3 7220m today from C2. Plan to equip C3 in 3-4 days and carry supplies to C4 site in same period provided weather remains good. Today sunny and good weather.


  Sharma, Tourism - 17 Sept 82

  C2 this am at 10:00 at 6770m (3 tents). 2 members and 4 Sherpas now in C2. C3 after 6-7 days.


  Sharma, Tourism - 16 Sept 82

  5 men reached C2 site 6700m yesterday but could not pitch camp. Today 4 men left C1 for pitching C2 today.


  Sharma, Tourism - 15 Sept 82

  5 men moving from C1 to C2 today; probably establish C2 today.


  Sharma, Tourism - 14 Sept 82

  Heavy snowfall last night so fearing avalanche, so no movement towards C2 today.


  Prachandra Shrestha, Tourism - 13 Sept 82

  2 members and 5 Sherpas in C1 today and intend to establish C2 tomorrow.


  Sharma, Tourism - 8 Sept 82

  Today some are carrying loads from C1 to C2 site while others are repairing route BC->C1.


  Sharma, Tourism - 7 Sept 82

  C1 on 3 Sept Lho La 6050m
  Avalanche today 5 am 200m below Lho La;, no one hurt but fixed ropes taken away and 2 days to refix.


  Barcelona Journalist - 6 Sept 82

  14 all in BC
  22 1st in Lho La
  24 sleep in C1
  26-27 C1 fully established
  He left BC 24 Aug and met Lhotse 1st or 2nd day out.


  Belvis & Anglada - 23 July 82

  19 members all in KTM 
  1 reporter
  1 cook
  1 doctor (to Lho La)
  1 TV reporter and TV cameraman not members and not above BC 

  Main group leave KTM tomorrow probably and Belvis and 2-3 Mon afternoon.
  Establish BC 12 Aug.
  Route same as Yugo route and camp same altitude.
  BC - usual site
  C1 - ice caves at Lho La
  C2 - 6770m
  C3 - 7000m
  C4 - 7520m  
  C5 - 8120m

  Equipment all route in Sept. Ready for summit by end of Sept; summit attacks end Sept to mid-Oct depending on weather. Long route and lot of fixed rope required. Have much rope for loads last 250m to Lho La.

  2 sirdars - Ang Tshering (Jap 1975 spring)
  18 HA porters 
  70 oxygen for climbing
  Narayani Hotel on return


expid: ANN382301
peakid: ANN3
year: 1982
route1: W Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Guillem Arias
sponsor: Catalan Expedition to Annapurna III
bcdate: 1982-09-23
smtdate: 1982-10-07
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to slowness of progress
campsites: BC(23/09,3960m),C1(24/09,4550m),C2(26/09,4800m),C3(02/10,5450m),C4(04/10,6060m),xxx(07/10,6500m)
routememo:
  Noguer & Arias - 18 Oct 82

  Arrive BC 23 Sept 3960m
  Route was W Face
  C1 4550m - 24 Sept
  C2 4800m - 26 Sept
  First section between BC and C2 very easy so fast progress.
  C3 5450m - 2 Oct; most difficult section, grade 5 by UIIA stds; mostly rock, had to fix 800m rope.
  C4 6060m - 4 Oct
   
  7 Oct reached 6500m going towards C5 at saddle at 6900m between Annapurna III and Gangapurna. Above 6500m snow slope of 45 degree maximum. Not a problem to climb higher but expedition tightly scheduled and time had run out: had only 1-1/2 months in Nepal because of jobs and money.

  High point of 6500m reached by Benavent and Noguer.
  All went well, no accidents, no illness, no avalanches.
  Went slower than hoped in 1st part because had to carry loads themselves and snow was deep.

  Followed US 1978 route as far as C4 - like British in 1979; above C4 to saddle like Japanese 1970.

   
  Arias - 9 Sept 82

  Route = W Face = US 1978 autumn route or perhaps more direct to summit depending on snow conditions.
  Only Arias now in KTM, others arrive KTM 13 Sept.
  Leave KTM 16 Sept by road to Pokhara and then Modi Khola into Sanctuary to BC perhaps at normal site, 4115m, perhaps higher. Arrive BC 22-23 Sept.

  4 camps above BC, possibly 5. C1 = ABC about 5500m; above this point hope to make one continuous push upwards but if weather is bad, would retreat to ABC (not BC).
  Make ABC 4-5 days after BC.
  ABC to summit 7-8 days, so 6-10 Oct on summit.
  16-17 Oct in KTM (at Ambassador Hotel) with trekking group.

  Catalan Expedition to Annapurna III
  No Sherpas above BC; expensive and difficult rock climbing makes them impractical.
  3 medical oxygen only.


expid: LANG82301
peakid: LANG
year: 1982
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Bruno Toscan
sponsor: Italian Mountaineering Expedition Langtang Lirung 1982
ascent1: 5th
approach: Trisuli Bazar->Langtang Valley
bcdate: 1982-09-18
smtdate: 1982-10-17
smttime: 1245
termdate: 1982-10-25
campsites: BC(18/09,4150m),C1(21/09,4710m),C2(30/09,5550m),C3(06/10,6030m),C4(16/10,6400m),Smt(17/10)
routememo:
  Petronio - 31 Oct 82

  Camps reported by ministry correct
  C1 = ABC
  C2 -> C3 was difficult mixed rock and ice; above C3 was 100m icefall and this also a problem; otherwise no problems.

  BC was at south base of mountain, near Japanese BC and memorials for dead climbers.

  Route = South Ridge above C1, below was couloir on southeast side. Think route was same as Japanese 1981 but perhaps last part (C4 to top) was different. Petronio went onto West Face here and then 200m below summit back to South Ridge. What looks like summit on postcard is not it; summit is behind; hence going onto face.

  17 Oct Petronio and sirdar Nga Temba to top.

  Cavallari and Ravagnan arrived C4 on 17th but did not go higher than C4. On 18th should have gone to top but bad weather (snow and wind), so that day descended together with summiters. Went to C3 where were Crepaz and Tavernaro and 2 Sherpas and from here they all went down same day to C1.

  During this descent Crepaz hit by snow avalanche. He was last man descending and avalanche took him down West Face. Cavallari saw him go about 2000m. Not possible to reach him and went so far not possible to be alive. No other accidents nor any frostbite.


  Sharma, Tourism - 24 Oct 82

  Italy Langtang 7246m South Face
  17 Oct summit reached at 12:45 pm without oxygen by 

   1) Mauro Petronio
   2) Sirdar Nga Temba Sherpa, 32

  in clear weather. Stayed on top 15 mins and hoisted Nepal and Italian flags, left ice axe, took photos. Had climbed from C4 at 6:00 am (altitude not given). At 1:00 pm started descent and at 16:30 arrived C4.

  2 others also attempted summit same day but because of bad weather for them could not succeed. 18 Oct at 11:00 am 2nd leader Bruno Crepaz fell when coming down from C3 (6030m) with summiters and others to C2; slipped and fell down west side and died. To find dead body not possible because of avalanches on west side and weather deteriorating. 

  All others well. Leave BC 25 Oct

  Langtang success 17th Oct by Petronio and Nga Temba. Left 9:00 am from C4 15 mins on top from 12:45 without oxygen on South Face. Weather fine on top. Returned C4 at 16:30. Afterwards Stefano Cavallari and Giuliano Ravagnan tried to top also but failed because bad weather and returned BC 18th. 18th at 11:00 am Bruno Crepaz descending from C3 to C2 fell 2000m in west direction into crevasse.

  C2 = 5550m - 18,210 feet
  C3 = 6030m - 19,785 feet


  Ale, Tourism - 6 Oct 82

  Leader suffering from high blood pressure and must rest few days.
  BC 18 Sept 4150m. Deputy leader Bruno Crepaz is acting leader.


  Toscan - 10 Sept 82

  All 7 in KTM. Leave KTM 12 Sept he hopes by bus to Trisuli and then usual route to Langtang north-northeast to Syabrubesi then east via airfield. 6 days to BC.

  BC at 4000m east of SE Ridge 
  Route = SE Ridge (same as Japanese spring 1981)
  Deposit camp c4800-4900m

  Probably 4 camps above this arrived BC c19th Sept; one week getting loads to deposit. BC to summit one month. About 4 Sherpas above BC.

  Sirdar Nga Temba (Kangchenjunga, 1982, Spring SW).


expid: BARU82301
peakid: BARU
year: 1982
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Romolo Nottaris
sponsor: Makalu 1982
ascent1: 12th,13th
countries: Italy
bcdate: 1982-09-08
smtdate: 1982-10-02
smttime: 1530
othersmts: Climbed Makalu (MAKA-823-03)
campsites: BC(08/09,4900m),C1(13/09,5100m),C2(16/09,6100m),Smt(02,09/10)
agency: Manaslu Trekking
primid: MAKA82303
routememo:
  Nottaris & Troillet - 5 Nov 82

  Baruntse - BC 4900m 8 Sept, same as Makalu BC. 
  C1 5100m - 13 Sept. 
  C2 6100m on Col - 16 Sept. 
  Route = S Ridge = Normal route. 

  Summiters as given by Ministry. Miss Kull reached 6900m, too difficult for her above.

  2nd summit party not feeling well at 1st of Oct, so went to BC and rested. 

  No real difficulties. Only accident was Miss Hiroz when had gone up again to help clear mountain and lost balance on loose boulder.


  Mohan Rai, Manaslu Tkg. - 25 Oct 82

  Helicopter brought Miss Hiroz to KTM yesterday, she is OK: X-ray shows no damage. Will leave KTM for home on 27th if Lufthansa can get seats for her and Baruntse male member who came with her.


  Sharma, Tourism - 2 Oct 82

  Again climbed Oct 9th by: 
  Claudio Righeschi, radio technician, born 1946, Ticiono, Switzerland 
  Miss Marie Hiroz, born 1953, teacher, Boloris
  On top 12:00 and returned BC next day. 
  Makalu to be attempted in following days.


  Ale, Tourism - 15 Oct 82

  Baruntse summit 2 Oct at 15:30 by Rudolf Homberger alone. Left 6100m to go to top. Miss Vreni Kull reached 7200m with Homberger; because too steep she did not go to summit. 3 more members will attempt summit 6th Oct. All OK.


  Nottaris - 28 Aug 82

  Expedition 2nd mountain will be Baruntse, not Cho Polu. Will use SE Ridge route. 6 will climb Baruntse only; other 3 Nottaris, Rausis and Troillet will be only ones on Makalu. Trio may also do some acclimatization, climbing on Baruntse or climbing it after Makalu. Troillet flew to Tumlingtar this morning with cargo. Rest of team fly to T'tar tomorrow afternoon.


expid: MAKA82303
peakid: MAKA
year: 1982
route1: W Pillar (to 7400m)
route2: W Face-NW Ridge (to 8200m)
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Romolo Nottaris
sponsor: Makalu 1982
countries: Italy
bcdate: 1982-09-08
smtdate: 1982-10-17
termdate: 1982-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 8200m due to snow and wind storms
othersmts: Climbed Baruntse (BARU-823-01)
campsites:
  BC(08/09,4900m),ABC(13/09,5300m),C1(15/09,6100m),C2(16/09,6600m),PolishC1(6000m),Biv1(14/10),Biv2(15/10,7700m),Biv3(16/10,7700m),xxx(17/10,8200m)

routememo:
  Makalu - BC 8 Sept 4900m
  Went to West Pillar at first 
  Rausis got sick frequently and decided at end could no longer climb.

  Made C1 on 15th Sept at 6100m following ABC at 5300m on 13 Sept. Went to 6600m where put C2 on 16 Sept at base of pillar and then returned to BC. Again up and reached 7400m for last acclimatization on 5 Oct by Nottaris and Troillet. Then Rausis said too weak to climb at all.

  Decided to change from pillar to new route. Went to Polish C1 and discussed route on West Face to right of Kukuzcka route and joined K's route 7100m where had 2nd biv. Went on up his route and 3rd biv 7700m-8200m reached 17 Oct by Nottaris and Troillet. Wind strong: had taken away Poles tent. 18 Oct big snow and wind storm and retreated 1500m down K route - mostly hard ice, 60-65 degrees, some rock. On 19th arrived BC. After three strong north wind and more new snow at BC and on 21 Oct decided to quit.


  Sharma, Tourism - 24 Oct 82 

  19th Oct Romolo Nottaris and Jean Troillet abandoned. Had asked to go to other route, but LO refused.


  Sharma, Tourism - 24 Oct 82

  Helicopter requested for member of Baruntse climb. Miss Marie Hiroz slipped 18th Oct when clearing equipment from mountain and injured skull. Doctor says needs hospitalization.


  Nottaris & Troillet - 22 Aug 82

  8 arrived yesterday
  1 arrived about 1 week
  Leave KTM 29th to Tumlingtar

  Makalu route = W Pillar, same as France and USA. 3 members on this route and 6 on Cho Polu S Ridge, or if not available willing to go to Baruntse. Makalu alpine-style by best climbers; others not so strong climbers (including women).

  2 climbs simultaneously, same BC. Arrived BC 15th Sept. BC 4900m, usual site ABC at 5000m - where 2 routes part.

  Makalu: no further camps, only a tent for bivs. No Sherpas on Makalu and no oxygen or fixed camps.

  Makalu summit 15-20 Oct 
  Cho Polu summit 10 Oct
  Hotel on return = KTM Guest House


  Ale, Tourism - 15 Oct 82

  Swiss Makalu and Baruntse

  Baruntse summit 2 Oct at 15:30 by Rudolf Homberger alone; left 6100m to go to top. Miss Vreni Kull reached 7200m with Homberger; because too steep she did not go to summit. 3 more members will attempt summit 6th Oct. All OK.


  Nottaris - 28 Aug 82

  Swiss Makalu and Baruntse

  Expedition 2nd Mountain will be Baruntse not Cho Polu. Will use SE Ridge route. 6 will climb Baruntse only. Other 3 Nottaris, Rausis and Troillet will be only ones on Makalu. Trio may also do same acclimatization climbing on Baruntse or climbing it after Makalu. Troillet flew to Tumlingtar this morning with cargo. Rest of team fly to T'tar tomorrow afternoon.


expid: KOTA82301
peakid: KOTA
year: 1982
route1: SW Face
nation: India
leaders: K. V. Cherian
sponsor: Territorial Army Expedition to Khothang 1982
ascent1: 1st-3rd
approach: Bakhim->Jamlingang->Rathong Chu->BC
bcdate: 1982-10-05
smtdate: 1982-10-11
smttime: 1445
termdate: 1982-10-16
campsites: BC(05/10,4450m),C1(07/10,5330m),C2(09/10,5800m),Smt(11,13-14/10)
routememo:
  Himalayan Club Newsletter, Feb 83
  Himalayan Journal, 1982-83, pg 33-37

  a) A territorial army team from India is reported to have climbed this many summited peak on 11, 13 and 14 Oct. Expedition was on the SW Face. This peak has many different high points on a ridge and each can be mistaken for the highest summit as often done in the past.

  b) A North Bengal Explorers Club expedition led by G. Roy claimed ascent on 31st Oct by two members and four Sherpas. Keeping in mind the serrated summit ridge it is difficult to be sure wheather the real top was reached until further details/photographs are examined.


expid: KABD82301
peakid: KABD
year: 1982
route1: Glacier between Forked Peak & Kabru Dome
nation: India
leaders: D. K. Khullar
sponsor: Indian Expeditions 1982
ascent1: 1st,2nd
bcdate: 1982-09-16
smtdate: 1982-09-26
termdate: 1982-10-01
campsites: BC(16/09,4265m),C1(20/09,5485m),C2(22/09,6100m),Smt(26,28/09)
routememo:
  A pre-Everest expedition organised by the Indian Mountaineering Foundation put 12 climbers on the summit in September. They followed the glacier between Forked Peak and Kabru Dome. The expedition was led by Col D. K. Khullar.

  Pre-Everest Camps:

  The IMF Pre-Everest Camp-cum Expedition in the Sikkim Region was held under the leadership of Principal, H.M.I., from Sept 4 to Oct 2 were able to reach the summit of Kabru Dome.


expid: CHOL82301
peakid: CHOL
year: 1982
route1: S Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Heidi Luedi
sponsor: International Cholatse-Tawache Expedition
ascent1: 2nd,3rd
countries: France
bcdate: 1982-09-25
smtdate: 1982-10-18
termdate: 1982-11-10
othersmts: Attempted Tawoche (TAWO-823-01)
campsites: BC(25/09,4470m),C1(29/09,5070m),C2(06/10,5750m),C3(16/10,6050m),Smt(18,29/10)
routememo:
  Cholatse - S Ridge

  Not an easy mountain but not terribly difficult. Heavy snowfall prevented earlier 2nd ascent, Had then to make route again and re-established C3 (which they had dismantled) at 6200m where US expedition's SE Ridge and S Ridge met. All to Thyangboche after taking down C3 and ropes above Col.


  Tawoche - N Ridge

  Returned to C2 on 4th Nov, Alpiger, Zahner and Kancha. On 5th up 100-120m higher over bad ice and much snow. Then on 6th 50m more via a traverse. 7th three members to 5900m (not Zahner); stopped by steep ice and loose snow and back to C2. 8th cleared fixed ropes and climb finished, back to C1. 9th in BC and snowfall.

  No accidents and frostbite.

  Above BC: Sonam, Kancha Tamang, Gyaltsen


  Peter Hackett - 5 Nov 82

  Cholatse-Tawoche

  Hackett met Heidi Luedi at Thyangboche on 2 Nov. After 2 ascents of Cholatse, they are returning to climb Tawoche and expected to complete that climb by end of next week (c12 Nov.).

  LO not at BC most of climb and not interested in need for expansion of climbing period.


  Shyam, Tourism - 22 Oct 82

  Cholatse, 6440m South Ridge
  Success 18 Oct at 15:30 hours by Luedi and Kancha Tamang.

  Started from C3 6100m at 8:30 am; stayed 25 mins, placed Swiss and Nepal flags and photos in foggy weather; reached C3 at 17:00 hours.

  2 members are sick, so climbing finished; apparently not to Tawoche.


  Ale, Tourism - 6 Oct 82

  29 Sept C1 for Cholatse 5070m southeast of peak
  Heidi Luedi and Francis Tamas made camp
  All Ok, weather good

   
  Luedi - 8 Sept 82

  Cholatse first. Same BC for both mountains.
  BC on east side of Tshola Glacier or there also routes = southeast of Cholatse and northeast of Tawoche
  2 here now, 2 more arrive 27 Sept
  2 now here leave about 10 or 11 Sept by road and foot; other 2 hope to fly in
  BC established on 27 or 28 Sept at 4500m-4700m.

  Cholatse route = South Ridge = new route. Much of South Ridge is rock (to about where SW Ridge joins it) so different climbing problem from SW Ridge route. Thinks SW Ridge should not have been so extremely difficult. Were not acclimatized and not fully equipped for ice.

  C1 in a saddle but Cholatse and Tawoche and also will serve both climbs if permit is given for North Ridge of Tawoche.

  C1 = about 5400m. Probably need a C2 for Cholatse when get to ice; altitude don't know, this highest camp.

  Cholatse summit about 15-20 Oct - late 2 members might be able to join this climb.

  Tawoche will also need a C2 perhaps in saddle between NW Summit (Pt 6367) and main summit (6542) at perhaps 6100m. Tawoche summit last days of Oct.

  If have to keep route on Tawoche as SE Face/Ridge, may move BC and certainly new C1; C2 don't know where there might be place for it.

  No Sherpas above BC probably, certainly not above C1.
  No medical oxygen even.
  International Cholatse-Tawoche Expedition

  Tawache - North Ridge
  Cholatse C2 = highest camp 
  Highest point 5900m


expid: EVER82302
peakid: EVER
year: 1982
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: William (Bill) March
sponsor: 1982 Canadian Mt Everest Expedition
ascent1: 49th,50th
countries: UK, W Germany
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1982-08-16
smtdate: 1982-10-05
smttime: 0930
campsites: BC(16/08,5200m),C1(16/09,6060m),C2(22/09,6500m),C3(28/09,7200m),C4(04/10,8000m),Smt(05,07/10)
accidents: Griffiths and 3 Sherpas killed in Khumbu Icefall
routememo:
  Amatt - 8 Oct 82, 4:10 pm

  Everybody returned safely to BC at 11:30 am today. Pema Dorje led them through Icefall which was in very dangerous condition. They were very glad to get through it. Canadians will stay at BC with NZ Lhotse who also arrive BC - expect them tomorrow.

  Team will leave Everest as a team. Climbed Everest as a team and will leave as a team. 13th or 14th to KTM and they are discussing. 


  BC - 8 Oct 82 (Bill March to Bruce Patterson):

  "Words cannot describe my relief. I have been sitting on the edge of razor for the past month. This has been the most powerful human experience I have been through. It's the hardest thing I have done in my life. All my past climbing has been with my own life. On this I have been responsible for a lot of people's lives."


  Amatt - 8 Oct 82

  Yesterday's summiters left C4 5:20 hours and were on top 11:30 am and returned to C4 14:00 hrs. Went down to C2 which reached 18:15. Today March, Smith, Morrow, Burgess and 8 Sherpas from C2 to BC. All Canadians and Sherpas will below BC and no more climbing will be done on Everest by this expedition says official statement.

  Climb yesterday was made under ideal conditions. Winds moderate all day, temperature mild: -15 degrees to -5 degrees C, skies clear until party back at South Col.

  Pema Dorje contracted snowblindness and may slow him down in his descent. Possible he might not get him to BC today, but Sherpas sent up to help him.

  I will be very relieved when everyone is back in BC in one piece. Its been an outstanding achievement for the men on the mountain: both ascents completed in less than 40 hours from C2 round trip.

  Everest is not a private mountain, it is a public mountain, its the one mountain in the world everyone knows about. Talking about flying out from SYB [Shyangboche] 14 or 15 Oct.


  Amatt - 7 Oct 82, 3:45 pm

  3:25 pm confirmation came 
  9:45 am GMT
  Spear at BC confirms Morrow, Lhakpa Tshering and Pema Dorje reached summit. Now descending from C4. No details available, may not get any until tomorrow.

  All who left C2 today are at BC. Gallagher said "icefall a nightmare" because not repaired.


  Amatt - 7 Oct 82, 12:20 pm

  No confirmation that Morrow and 2 Sherpas have reached summit as of 12:20 local time. Pix show clear trail and summit ridge but could be travel of 2 days ago and a yellow oxygen bottle on summit. No human figures that could be identified as such. At least 3 or 4 hours from now before BC can be confirmed. Laurie in BC and all others descending to BC are below dangerous traverse in Icefall.


  Amatt - 7 Oct 82, 11:00 am

  Amatt: "I feel very excited for Morrow, very disappointed for Burgess cause it was his life dream and he will come back but not on this expedition I suspect".

  Burgess went down to radio which was below C4 at Lhotse dump where Smith had dumped load with radio had gone 1200 feet above.
   
  Near South Smt when oxygen failed and went down to C4. Burgess to same extent exhausted himself by pushing out the route to South Col. Despite this I have little doubt he would have made it to the summit if his oxygen hadn't failed. He was one of strongest on team if not the strongest .. alone he has made as big a contribution, if not a bigger contribution to this climb as has Laurie".


  Amatt - 9 Oct 82, 9:45 am

  Burgess has turned back about 1000 feet below S Summit. His oxygen set failed; he is descending from C4. Morrow and 2 Sherpas are continuing to summit.


  Amatt - 7 Oct 82, 8:00 am

  Tripod not seen by Skreslet, Amatt thinks it buried in snow. No comment about Mrs Schmatz's body. All 3 used oxyen constantly from Col and top and down. Used some they found at old C5. Skreslet had to turn up his flow to keep up with Sherpas.

  Skreslet left yellow Luxfer oxygen bottle. When Skreslet down at C2, 36 hours without sleep last night: no radio at C4 due to failure to carry C4. Summit party to arrive at top 9:00-9:30 today.

  Today: 2nd summit party to make bid by Burgess, Lhakpa Tshering and Pema Dorje and maybe Pat Morrow. 2 groups of Sherpas and Canadians from C2 to BC starting 4:00 am: Gallagher, Skreslet, Read and Congdon and 2 Sherpas summiters and 5 other Sherpas.

  Smith, March and 6 Sherpas wait in C2 to descending summiters. Gallagher is now below C1 and has encountered 2 problems in Icefall that need fixing before can go through it. It has been 2 weeks since route fixed. Weather looks better today than day of 1st summit climb - not very clear.


  Amatt - 6 Oct 82

  Dr. Steve [Bezruchka]: Laurie in very good physical and emotional condition; surprised at how well he seemed to be.

  Spear: Laurie on top focused thoughts on very practical matters.

  Spear: last night Laurie said without help of 2 Sherpas climb would not have been possible - then help indescribable. Hillary Step was deep snow but climbed it without difficulty and rapelled down in descent. Laurie he was never sure of success until he no longer had to look up.

  Second attempt will be launched to put climbers of Everest. Burgess, Lhakpa Tshering and Pema Dorje will be main part of this 2nd attempt. Will go from C2 to C4 today. Morrow, Congdon and Smith will carry loads from C2 to C4 today. If there is enouth oxygen at Col, one of these 3 climbers may join summit attempt.

  March will carry a load to Col area. Other Canadians will rest in C2 as will balance of 11 carrying Sherpas.

  2nd attempt tomorrow, same day some Canadians and Sherpas will descend to BC.

  Spear: "This may be the last attempt at the peak".

  Today weather clear and light wind.

  Amatt: "I think its fantastic. Didn't realise until last night that after all these years of preparations we finally got to the top."


  Amatt - 5 Oct 82, 7:30 pm

  Governor General called from Canada is best wishes.

  Skreslet arrived C2 at 6:30 pm. All rest in C2 tomorrow.


  Amatt - 5 Oct 82, 4:15 pm

  At 1:57 pm from LO at BC to Ministry of Tourism: excellent weather during ascent, cold but little wind and good climbing conditions. Skreslet was very happy and Bill March sounded very cool, calm and collected says Spear.

  At 4:00: 15:26 summit party in C3 and descending C2.
  Tonight all in C2 and deciding future plans.


  Amatt - 5 Oct 82, 1:15 pm

  12:40 pm today Spear announced "We made it, we made it." Skreslet and 2 Sherpas left C4 04:15 hours and on top at 9:30. Left top 10:00 am and returned Col C4 12:30 and going to C2 today between 14:00 and 15:00 hours. Plane that flew over Everest saw Nepal and Canada and expedition flags on summit, but climbers had left an hour before.

  Read was on Col all day today. March said this am were discussing another summit attempt in a day or 2 but everyone tired.


  Amatt - 5 Oct 82, 8:20 am

  At 4:00 BC said beautiful morning and clear moonlite night and no wind. Perfect day for climbing. Skreslet in excellent mental shape and the 2 Sherpas looking forward to climb. No contact with summit party since 8:00 pm yesterday who should have left C4 at 3:00 am today.

  Read in C4 last night and today also, or went to top today. Gallagher in C3 last night and to C2 with all 5 other Canadians and 13 other Sherpas including 2 cooks at C2.

  Technical problems on microwave link now and trying to correct this. Will not be video camera with summit party because batteries dead and not being carried.


  Amatt - 4 Oct 82 (3rd briefing 5:00 pm)

  Today 12:45: Skreslet, Sungdare, Lhakpa Dorje reached South Col and by 14:00 hours C4 established. 11 Sherpas helped to carry supplies to site. Weather cool with little wind.

  Summit attempt starts about 3:00 hours tomorrow. 3 climbers plan to carry 5 or 6 bottles of oxygen. Gallagher and Read reached yellow band 25,000 feet at 2:00 pm and headed down - ran out of strength. All started from C2 at 05:00 hrs.


  Amatt - 4 Oct 82 (2nd briefing 10:00 am) 

  Summit attempt tomorrow Tuesday if weather and personel conditions permit. This attempt by Gallagher, Skreslet, Sungdare and Lhakpa Dorje. After this attempt most climbers will descend to BC for 5 or 6 days rest before another attempt is made.
   
  March at C2 said to Amatt today mounting summit attempt for tomorrow. Today they will establish C4 on Col and tomorrow push for summit. Both days very long days for those involved last few days wind very strong but today weather is good and "we are quietly optimistic" - March

  March to Bruce Patterson last night:
  - "fact is all the guys up here are pretty wasted. They (Gallagher and 
    Skreslet) were the two of fittest guys when the weather cleared to make 
    the summit attempt."
  - "its just a coincidence both Skreslet and Gallagher rested at lower elevations 
    for prolonged periods before returning to high altitude several other climbers 
    were burned out pushing the route to the South Col."
  - "they (Gallagher and Skreslet) were both later arrivals to this camp (C2) so 
    they were less worn down by the altitude. They haven't actually been directly 
    involved in fixing rope either. Its logical that they are the strongest at 
    this time" - "its just a raffle up here."
  - "they both seem preetty well calm and committed also pretty happy and ready 
    to go."
  - "the team is generally tired. We've worked really, really hard. We've been at 
    altitude for 18 days. Its a really long time when you consider the body 
    deteriorates above 18,000 feet."
  - "one day or 2 days rest at 21,500 feet is not having much effect a lot of 
    us are losing weight and if this attempt fails we are going to have to go down 
    to BC and build ourselves up again before another attempt on the mountain."

  Amatt: "Gallagher is a very determined man. He has never failed to reach a summit he has set out to climb on an expedition." Also very cautious mountaineer and his decision will be based on correct mountaineering judgement. Skreslet very committed, determined and strong despite slip fall in Icefall bringing down Griffith's body on 2 Sept and cracked 2 ribs.

  Lhakpa Dorje, 25, from Khunde, climbed Ama Dablam thrice Baruntse,
  Sungdare, 29, climbed Everest in 1981 autumn and Everest 1979, was on Baruntse 1975 and Australia 1978.

  If summiters get to top will have gone 8000 feet in 2 days. Left C2 today at 4:00 pm, could be on top by 9:00 am tomorrow.


  Amatt - 4 Oct 82 (1st briefing 8:00 am)

  Yesterday Sungdare, Lhakpa Dorje and Burgess fixed rope to Col. Reached Col 15:00 hours without oxygen in mild weather condition. Climbed from C2 - has to be assumed drop in winds. All returned to C2.

  Burgess said Sungdare and Lhakpa Dorje were going like steam engines when reached Col. Burgess going less strongly: felt a little drunk in hypoxia.

  Ropes all the way from bottom of face to Col now.
  Summit pyramid looks Ok - windblown: snow striped off rocks.
  Burgess now 16 days above Icefall, resting in C2 today.

  Also yesterday Smith carried load to C3 and all others rested in C2 perphaps 1-1/2 - 2 km col to summit.

  Today Gallagher, Skreslet, Read, Sungdare, Lhakpa Dorje will carry from C2 to C4. 2 strongest of these Canadians and 2 Sherpas will stay at Col and other Canadian will return to C2. Not necessarily summit party. This will be established in C4.

  11 more Sherpas will carry from C2 to C4 and returned; total of 13 load carrying Sherpas in Cwm and above other 5 Canadians rest today in C2.

  Conditions permitting a recce towards summit will be made tomorrow; this involves people at Col.

  Some climbers may descend to BC for rest tomorrow.
   
  Burgess wants to climb Everest without oxygen and thus has to go back to C2 to sleep. 

  Big job carrying loads from C2 to C4 so new must be in good physical shape, "a long carry at altitude."

  Spear very optimistic; very happy Col reached. Wind must have dropped. "Big psych boost for expedition to have reached South Col." "It's from South Col they can start thinking of going to summit.


  Amatt - 3 Oct 82

  Oct 1-7 Sherpas carried loads from C2 to C3 and returned to C2. Skreslet carried a load to C3 and stayed in C3. 3 Sherpas tried to go down to C1 but were stopped by new crevasse in Cwm. All Canadians except Skreslet slept in C2.

  Oct 2 - Skreslet climbed to 24,500 feet without oxygen while clearing fixed lines on Lhotse face. "Big problem on Lhotse Face were gusty winds - it has blowing pieces of ice off top of face and the ice was falling like mortar shells." Gusts of wind were blowing him off his feet and he was protected by fixed rope - hood of his jacket continuously blown off his face and had to crawl on hands and knees because wind so strong. Wind blowing ice particles into his eyes through sides of ski goggles. Without oxygen it was very fatiguing; could take only 10 steps before had to rest. Yesterday 13 Sherpas went to C1 and brought up loads to C2.

  Today Read and Smith plan to go to C3 and use oxygen to finish fixing rope to Col. Burgess will follow them without using oxygen and helping fix ropes. Gallagher and Congdon will go to C3 to dig out tents. Skreslet, March and Morrow resting in C2.

  Spear: "In the next few days if the weather permits C4 will be established by carrying loads directly from C2. The climbers are beginning to show signs of fatigue some have spent 16 days at C2 or above." Noisy at C2 from winds and difficult to sleep.

  Today very clear and no wind. Moores went down with Sherpa and went back up to C2 yesterday. Didn't think Icefall had deteriorated greatly.

  Hope to go for summit as quickly as possible. Not talking about a C5 so guess not planning one.


  Amatt - 1 Oct 82

  Weather today 14 degrees F at BC and 8 degrees F overnight - some valley fog today.

  Yesterday Congdon, Smith, Sungdare and Pema Dorje reached 25,500 feet, 1 hour below Col. Were fixing ropes. Today no movement on mountain due to high winds except 3 Sherpas C2 to C1 to C3 with loads.

  All men at C2 tonight. 
  Steve and 2 Sherpas from BC into Icefall today, assume repairing route.

  No target dates for summit or C4 and no decision regarding C5; it appears weather restricting progress and until that wind dies down doubt there will any progress on the mountain.


  Amatt - 30 Sept 82

  Radio problems today, batteries at BC low and radio cold.

  Yesterday fixed rope fixed to yellow band at 24,500 feet by March, Morrow, Lhakpa Dorje and Lhakpa Tshering. Today Congdon, Smith, Sungdare and Pema Dorje will continue to fix lines towards Col from C3. Gallagher and Read to carry loads from C2 to C3 and returned to C2 from 2 and Burgess will go up from C2 and follow Congdon and Smith and assist in fixing ropes. 

  All Sherpas except Sungdare and Pema Dorje rest in C2 today. March, Morrow and Skreslet also rest in C2 (Skreslet for 3rd day).

  No information regarding who came down through Icefall with Sherpa for funeral.

  Appears extended route only 200 feet yesterday despite using oxygen presumably which means weather must have been very bad. "Progress has slowed down drastically due to adverse weather conditions."


  Amatt - 29 Sept 82

  Today +12 F at BC but last night 6 F. Today very light winds and crystal clear skies.
   
  Yesterday Burgess, Lhakpa Dorje and Lhakpa Tshering got within 200 feet of yellow band on Lhotse face at above 25,000 feet and fixed ropes to that point. 

  Today March, Morrow and same 2 Sherpas will continue fixing rope towards Col using oxygen for first time. March and Morrow will return to C3 tonight or last night and 2 Sherpas to C2. Smith and Congdon will go for C2 to C3 with Sungdare and Pema Dorje. 7 other Sherpas will carry from C2 to C3 and return to C2. Read, Burgess, Skreslet and Gallagher rest in C2 today. 

  Pasang Nuru to BC today for his brother dead Catalan Sherpa's funeral with Paul Moores of Lhotse. Tonight 6 in C3: March, Morrow, Smith and Congdon plus Sungdare and Pema Dorje.

  Major problems with strong wind and heavy drifting snow on Lhotse face. Box tents of C3 buried by snow last night and had to be dug out: gust sheets of wind-blown snow being blown down Lhotse face. Last night March and Morrow complained of mild headaches at C3, thus using oxygen because of these headaches (symptoms of lack of acclimatization indicated programmes not allowing bodies to adapt) and hard to breath in dried snow. 

  Sherpas today bringing more snow anchors and rope which are needed to make route to C4.

  Hope to reach C1 today but no target date for making C4 these. Could be 2 or 3 days before C4 established; definitely not establishing C4 tomorrow. No decision on a C5.

  Paul Moores and Sherpa down through Icefall today: this am 4 Sherpas up from BC with ladders to enable them to pass through it - why Moores down don't know.

  Face = 45 degrees snow slope.

  "They are progressing as well as possible but strong winds are bound to slow them down." 

  Preferably good thing to slow down to acclimatize better and better chances to reach summit. 
  Summit climb will be before Oct 10.

  March yesterday evening: "conditions are very tough up here; great sheets of snow are blowing down the Lhotse face." Box tents weight 40 lbs each, made of ballistic nylon (which used for bullet proof jackets).


  Amatt - 28 Sept 82

  Weather: clear skies, no clouds, no fog today.

  Yesterday high winds and blowing snow on mountain creating 1m ground blizzard (spindrift to 1m off ground) so hard to breathe and seen and hard to pitch tents at C3, which did however - earlier 400 feet fixed rope installed above C3 by Congdon - not as far as had hoped.

  Today Burgess, Lhakpa Dorje and Lhakpa Tshering will fix ropes above C3 towards C4. Morrow and March will occupy C3 tonight with these 2 Sherpas while Burgess to C2 tonight. Congdon, Skreslet, Smith rest at C2 today. Gallagher and Read 2 all other 14 Sherpas carry from C2 to C3 and returned to C2.

  No traffic through Icefall.

  Higher part of mountain typical condition yesterday "to be expected they will get more windy days like that."


  Amatt - 27 Sept 82

  Overnight temp +16 degrees F - +18 degrees F at BC - crystal clear skies, no clouds in sight this am.

  Yesterday Burgess, Sungdare and Pema Dorje reached site C3 at 23,500 feet - fixed ropes to site. March, Lhakpa Dorje and Dawa Nuru also reached C3 carrying loads. Morrow reached site filming all returned to C2.

  Todays plan: 6 Sherpas from C2 to C1, pickup loads and carry to C2.
  - Skreslet, Smith and 6 Sherpas will carry from C2 to C3 and return C2.
  - Congdon will go to site of C3 and start fixing ropes towards C4 and return 
    to C2 - may have Sherpas with him.
  - 5 other Canadians rest at C2. 

  "Given good weather, C4 on South Col could be reached about Sept 30" says BC mgr Spear.
  Plan to occupy C3 tomorrow.
   
  All in good health, no altitude problems.

  "Progress seems very fast" - Amatt


  Amatt - 26 Sept 82

  Today dramatic improvement in weather. Yesterday 100m cloud ceiling, today no clouds - +10 F degrees, light wind today - excellent for climbing.

  Yesterday no movement at all because bad weather: snowfall and very bad visability and potential avalanche.

  Today all in C1 will move to C2 to stay: Read, Skreslet, Gallagher, 10 Sherpas and 2 cooks - already left C1.
   
  Burgess, Sungdare and Pema Dorje will continue fixing ropes to C3; behind them March, Smith and Congdon, Lhakpa Dorje and Dawa Noru will carry to C3 and return to C2; will be first to reach site of C3 at 23,500 feet part way up face.

  Morrow will go with load-carriers from C2 to C3 to film.

  So 8 members and 16 Sherpas in C2, no one in C1. Expect some men to occupy C3 tomorrow.

  Will take at least a week to go to top and probably longer. Amatt says lost a day rest yesterday.


  Shyam, Tourism - 24 Sept 82

  Today 1 member Skreslet and 4 Sherpas BC to C1 and 4 returned to BC.

  Gallagher, Read and Skreslet at C1 tonight. 4 Sherpas yesterday returned to C1, did not stay at C2. Last night in C2 5 Canadians and 5 Sherpas. 


  Amatt - 23 Sept 82

  Weather still clear skies; last night +8 degrees F (lowest for this expedition); now 10 degrees and light winds; summit clear.

  Today March and Congdon have gone to C2 to stay. 

  Today Gallagher, Read and 10 Sherpas went from C1 to C2. 4 Sherpas stayed at C2 and others returned to C1. Icefall deteriorating. Gallagher yesterday through Icefall and saw major ice collapse in upper part at about 5700m. Don't want anyone to go through it unless absolutely necessary.

  In Cwm: 14 Sherpas, 7 Canadians and 4 Lhotse members = 25 people.
   
  480 man-days of food in C1
  464  "       of food in C2
  944 which NZ Lhotse sharing; 25 people eating it 38 days. All up before accidents.
  42 oxygen which is more than adequate
  Enough tents, 13 bottles gas.
   
  Well supplied to stay in West Cwm for quite a while; "no need to come through Icefall."

  No recent snow past week in Cwm and everybody very anxious to get onto Lhotse face.

  New strategy discussing now: Sherpas carrying to C4 from C2 not occupying C3. Members would occupy C3 but Sherpas not.

  NZ Lhotse have fixed rope towards C3.

  March and Hillary meeting today to discuss future movements up to and on face. Canadians may put a C5 above Col; this being considered. 

  Skreslet expected to arrive BC today.
  Tonight 5 Canadians at C2; 8 or 9 Sherpas at C2.

  If possible there will be a Sherpa on summit. Even thinking earlier that Oct, maybe even Oct 1 for summit: a week from today. Strategy to go as fast as they can; modifying strategy.


  Amatt - 22 Sept 82

  "Progress seems to be very good - tendency may be to go too fast" because of wish to take advantage of good weather and not acclimatize properly. Al Burgess however experienced man will control and thus function as climbing leader.

  Skreslet in Pheriche today and returned to expedition - is fit; had gone to Khunde for check-up after cracking ribs 2 Sept in helping evacuate Griffiths. He and Steve go to C1 in a few days and on to C2.

  C3 will be at about 23,500 feet on Lhotse face.

  Yesterday March said "climbing conditions are excellent Sherpas doing excellent job" and very committed. 

   5 Sherpas at C2
  11 Sherpas at C1
   6 Sherpas at BC from C1 today
  --
  22  active today

  Top camp will be C4 on Col. More than 1 carry up through Icefall because have realized couldn't get up all supplies in one carry. Now should have all (except minor items). None now want to come down to BC until expedition ends. 

  Always chance expedition to Everest is abandoned, but with conditions very good as they are now they'll go up very fast. Target summit date now is Oct 7.

  NZ Lhotse-Canada Everest basically route same to NZ Lhotse C4 on face C3's not necessarily same since different requirements.

  Agent says Canadians 1 day behind Lhotse. N Zealanders did not want to be overwhelmed by big expedition and wanted do their share lead climbing.


  Shyam, Tourism - 22 Sept 82

  Gallagher, Read and 10 Sherpas went to C1 this am today. 6 Sherpas will return to BC and others remain. From C1 to C2 5 members and 11 Sherpas: 2 will return to C1 (March and Congdon), Burgess, Morrow and Smith stay at C2 with 5 of these Sherpas. First time C2 occupied.

  Weather clear, light wind at BC, +14 degrees F.


  Sharma, Tourism - 21 Sept 82

  No one from BC to C1 today. From C1 to C2 Bill March, Morrow and 11 Sherpas. Left C1 at 5:00 am and arrived 7:00 am today; will return to C1 today.

  Weather clear, light wind at BC and C2, +20 degrees F at BC.

  C2 expected to be occupied tomorrow by 4 members: Smith, Burgess, Congdon and Morrow in C1, but not going up. March now in BC: Gallagher, Read, Skreslet in Khunde; Frolick to KTM 22 Sept


  Amatt - 20 Sept 82

  Can Everest plan total of 4 high camps: C3 on Lhotse face and C4 on Col. Will climb on oxygen from Col.


  Sharma, Tourism - 20 Sept 82

  Leader and 6 Sherpas left BC 4:00 am for C1. 6 Sherpas return at 9:00 am to BC and leader staying at C1. 3 members and 11 Sherpas ferried loads to C2 and not yet returned but are coming back.

  Sunny and light wind at BC.


  Shyam, Tourism - 19 Sept 82

  This morning 2:37 am 4 members and 10 Sherpas left C1 to C2 site; left site 7:00 and are returning to C1. Burgess, Morrow, Smith and Congdon dumped loads at C2 which will be at last night - these 4 members and 12 Sherpas slept at C1.

  No one this am up from BC to C1. March and 3 others members and few Sherpas went into Icefall for shooting film. Weather clear at BC and light wind. Will establish C2 2-4 days from today.


  Enrick from Amatt - 18 Sept 82

  Burgess and Morrow and approx 10 Sherpas dropped loads and returned to C1 packed out this trail to C2 and by doing so recovered all the ground lost by the accidents.

  1 or 2 more days before occupying C2, C2 at usual site. Smith builds ladder bridge across crevasse between C1 and C2 (Congdon the 4th in C1 last night). No indication when others will move up from BC to C1.

  Weather still very clear, 20 degrees F, freezing hard and consolidating snow; only sinking 6" into snow whereas previously up to knees.

  "Climbing conditions sound like they're ideal."


  Shyam, Tourism - 18 Sept 82

  March returned to BC yesterday 9:00 am. This morning March and 12 Sherpas left BC to C1. 2 of these Sherpas will stay at C1 and March to BC. Last night 4 members and 10 Sherpas in C1. This morning 2 C1 men went to C2 at 6:45 and immediately returned to C1 - recce route and find site for Burgess and Morrow and 10 Sherpas. 

  Weather clear, wind normal.
  No information regarding Lhotse or Spanish Everest.


  Sharma, Tourism - 17 Sept 82

  C1 at 6060m 2:00 pm yesterday by 3 members as stated yesterday (not Gallagher). C2 in 4-5 days. All in good health.

  Today 21 Sherpas and March gone up to C1. 10 Sherpas and March will return to BC.

  Different camps: Lhotse and Everest


  Sharma, Tourism - 16 Sept 82

  Today 3:00 am 4 members and 8 Sherpas left BC to establish C1. Gallagher and all 8 Sherpas return to BC at 9:00 am after dumping loads at C1. Al Burgess, Gordan Smith, Pat Morrow now at C1 site and established it today.

  Today at BC sunny and no wind.


  Sharma, Tourism - 15 Sept 82

  Weather at BC very good, not misty or windy, but Canadians and Sherpas not started moving today. 

  March now at BC [left 10th].


  Sharma, Tourism - 14 Sept 82

  Heavy snowfall last night today no avalanche in Icefall; yesterday Sherpas only.

  HMG has given permission to use SE Ridge route from Lhotse face and South Col. Hillary's no objection to this; he says want Canadians behind Lhotse: this not on HMG stipulation: to be worked out between two teams.


  Prachandra Shrestha, Tourism - 13 Sept 82

  5 Canadian Everesters now in KTM: Serl, Blench, McNab, Auger, Elzinga.

  Ropes fixed half way to C1 Today - today weather good.

  Only summit material are Al Burgess and Laurie Skreslet, and Skreslet fell into crevasse and cracked some ribs [broke 2, says Skreslet postcard]. Burgess is effectively climbing leader and likeliest summiter and if Lhotse team have said Everest climbers must come after Lhotse men, Burgess can enforce this by threatening to walk off.

  March not strong leader; was ready to call off expedition or make it a joint one to Everest with Lhotse men after accidents and frightened men with bad karmas left. Amatt changed his mind for him about joint expedition.

  Sherpas should not have been exposed to avalanche that killed 3 of them on 31 Aug. Cans had been occupying C1 for days in violation of permit on excuse that men there could give weather reports. On 31 Aug March decided to sleep 2 extra hours and when he got up at 5:00 am Sherpas party had left. When C1 came on radio at 5:15 they said no one should enter Icefall that day as they had had snowfall of 8-12 inches (and there had been a little snow that was accumalating over previous days) while there had been no snowfall at BC - but by 5:15 it was too late and when huge avalanche came down at 5:30 (and spindrift covered BC) all they could do was count the returning men.

  Cans had gotten blase about Icefall's fine condition and were going into it later and later in the day. Griffiths was puttering around with men building a bridge at 9:00 am when no one should have been in Icefall that late. No effective leadership: March had gone to Lobuche with Sherpa's body for cremation and Gallagher was up at C1.

  By 2 Sept accident, Cans had all loads at top of Icefall they needed except 30 loads of Sherpa food. Had in fact more than needed for reduced manpower and making same of it available to Lhotse expedition.

  Regarding Roger Marshall's being fired, one story was he sent out of Nepal hollow ice axes filled with drugs.


  Alex Witten-Hannah - 20 Sept 82

  C1 1st occupied 26 or 27 Aug definitely - 28th and had reached C2 site before 1st Sept but hadn't occupied C2.

  Patterson was there in C1 would radio BC at 3:00 am to discuss weather and advisability of entering Icefall. 31st Aug March in C1 slept 2 hours later by decision before sleeping.

  For 10 days before 31 Aug one to 2 inches of snow daily building up; 30-31 Aug, 12-18 inches fell.

  "These deaths were unecessary" = Sherpas and March's responsibility to prevent these as much as possible.


  Amatt - 8 Sept 82

  We have just made request to change to South Col. Plan to have 8 climbers and 12 Sherpas to push up not in one continuous push. Icefall extremely dangerous - only area through it.

  Very unexpectful of the mountain - incredibly bad luck with 2 avalanches. Very cautious, wait for perfect weather. If we are all careful no more deaths on Everest.

  Summit mid-Oct. Objective to have Canadian on each summit remains same.

  Amatt back to BC in a week.

  Bill under incredibly pressure; taking time off in Namche, back to BC in 5-6 days.
   
  Mood very upbeat; take several days to get over tragedies. Fairly confident of success, but not in any great push, proceeding as cautiously as possible.

  Jones left for medical re-examination: altitude trouble; other 6 left for personal reasons. Did not wish to continue, too dangerous to continue; were intimately involved in rescue of those hit.

  Amatt decided to stay in BC. Does not wish to expose himself to danger.

  Climbers: March, Gallagher, Smith, Morrow, Read, Skreslet
            Congdon not decided.

  Hillary had given his approval to use part of his route.
  120 loads already in C1 site including 40 oxygen, 25 tents 
  Icefall very unstable and very dangerous.

  No Sherpas left except for medical; at least 20 stick there, one very comitted to expedition.

  1st avalanche at 5:30 am usual time for avalanche; fell from West Shoulder, slab avalanche fell 5000 feet. 7 people involved: 2 members buried and escaped: Baillie and Spear; Baille dug Spear out. 2 Sherpas got themselves out but not completely and 3 completely buried. Rescue team of Elzinga, Blench and several others went up and probed and dug and found only one body which tried to revive. 16 people carrying in Icefalls and much equipment. Were lost 18,500 feet.

  2nd was serac collapse at 18,300 feet when party repairing crevasse bridge. Baillie not hit but very close and helped evacuate body. Read's ice he was standing on tilted him into crevasse. 1 Sherpa also there = 4 people in party.

  After accidents to continue or not; abandoning expedition seriously discussed but commitment and length of time left.

  Auger was not hurt by any accident but helped in rescue as rescue expert.

  Sharma: possibility permit will be given to change route. 


  Sharma, Tourism - 7 Sept 82

  7 members have left expedition yesterday left BC. Some are sick and some are frightened by deaths on mountain:

  - David Jones (sick)
  - Donald Serl
  - Jim Elzinga
  - Tim Auger - ok
  - David McNab
  - Rusty Baillie
  - Jim Blench

  Due to decrease in number of members of expedition, March requested Ministry of Tourism to change route to South Col.

  Amatt comes on Tomorrow's helicopter to brief Sharma.
  Morale of all these are left is high and health is good.

  HMG will take few days to decide on route change; meanwhile remaining members can continue. 


  Sharma, Tourism - 4 Sept 82

  George Griffiths instantly killed and Tim Auger injured (minor injuries).

  Dawa Nima Tshering, Pasang Tenzing injured minor by avalanche 9:00 2 Sept in Icefall. Injured men in BC and being treated there.

  All other Canadians and Sherpas in good health.
  2 Sherpas killed 31 Aug not found.


  Sharma, Tourism - 1 Sept 82

  On 31 Aug at 3:00 am 6 members and 10 Sherpas want to recce route in Icefall. 5:30 am suddenly snow avalanche buried and killed 3 Sherpas: 
  - Pasang Sana, 30, Khunde
  - Ang Chuldin, 20, Khumjung
  - Dawa Dorje, 42, Thami

  Pasang Sana's body found; others not, but search continues.
  Health of all members and others Sherpas is good.
  Permitted to recce route before Sept 1 beginning of season.


  March - 23 July 82

  Polish pillar route to 7900m and then more direct on pillar upwards to top with C5 at 8400m which rejoins Polish route just below this and is at same site as Polish last camp. Taking oxygen; using it above C4 at about 25,000 feet and perhaps for sleeping lower by fixing men. 

  C1 top of Icefall
  C2 in Cwm about 21,700 feet
  C3 - 23,500 ft
  C4 - 25,700 ft
  C5 - 27,500 ft
  top 10-15 Oct
  non-Canada Baille (USA or Canada??)
             Fuhrich (Germany)
             Burgess (British)
  Sherpas : 29 climbing Sherpas


  Al Burgess - 15 Oct 82

  Bill March fired Roger Marshall because March feared he would be unable to control Marshall. Excuse was rumours of drug smuggling when Marshall was in Nepal for Annapurna IV.

  At start                      8 Sept
  15 climbers                   7-8 climbers
   2 doctors                      1 doctor
   1 BC cook                      1 BC cook
   1 journalist                   1 journalist
   1 BC mgr                       1 BC mgr
   1 cameraman                  1-2 at BC
  --                            ---
  21                            13 


expid: MANA82401
peakid: MANA
year: 1982
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Noboru Yamada
sponsor: Himalayan Assoc of Japan Manaslu Expedition Winter 1982-1983
approach: Trisuli Bazar->Buri Gandaki
bcdate: 1982-11-30
smtdate: 1982-12-18
termdate: 1982-12-22
campsites: BC(30/11,4850m),C1(05/12,5900m),C2(11/12,6500m),C3(17/12,7150m),xxx(18/12,7700m)
routememo:
  Kikuchi - 1 Jan 83

  All Ministry of Tourism camp altitudes and dates correct.

  12 Dec Tsunoda, Sakuma, Ishibashi, Akutsu and Aota reached 7400m making route

  17 Dec - C3 made at 7150m only because no place above this for a higher camp - had planned to make C3 on 16th but 3 Sherpas unable to get there because high wind; on 17th no wind. C3 made by Tsunoda, Sakuma, Aota, Akutsu, Ishibashi and Shingo; Tsunoda, Sakuma and Aota stayed in the camp.

  18 Dec - 4:00 am 3 left C3 for top; face was very good: from C3 to summit plateau in 4 hours to cover this 500m against very  strong wind. Reached 7700m and the wind so strong could not stand up and were down on hands and knees. Arrived 7650m at 8:30 am and 7700m at 9:30 am and gave up and turned back 10:25 am. Sakuma slipped at 7550m, perhaps blown off feet. Not so steep section from 7300m to plateau and above 7400m no fixed ropes. Men descending not roped to each other. Sakuma fell 200m vertically down rock band. When friends reached him, he was dead.

  19 Dec 2nd attack abandoned and this attack party reached body and he was buried in crevasse by these men.

  Oxygen used at final camp for sleeping but not carried in summit attempt.

  Yamada on 1st day of climbing above BC fell 20m in crevasse and not able to go above BC again, but walked out. No other accidents, no frostbite.

  4 Sherpas above BC but not above 7000m
  "Everybody believed we have success," maybe 2nd attack party would have succeeded.
  All camps were tents - special tent ok but normal areas, all torn by wind.
  Lot of falling seracs on Manaslu; no camps hit but many such avalanches.


  Sharma, Tourism - 26 Dec 82

  LO report:
  17 Dec C3 - 7150m final camp

  3 climbers 18 Dec:
    Takashi Sakuma, 1950, Yamato-shi, Kanagawa (Kangch 1981 summit)
    Fuji Tsunoda, 1952, Urawa-shi (Yalung Kang 1981 summit)
    Hiroshi Aota, 1958, Tokyo (Annapurna I 1981 summit)

  Started towards summit at 4:00 am from C3; 8:25 am reached 7650m, but because of high wind started descending to C3 at 7500m. Sakuma slipped 200m and injured head and died at 7300m.

  Kikuchi report of 20 Dec: Weather very fine every day, but -30 degrees C at C3 or colder and windy.

  Sakuma died at 7300m 18 Dec because slipping down ice face. 

  After set up C2, made route up. 5 members reached 7400m making route and fixing rope to there on 13 Dec then rested. C3 made 17 Dec just below snow apron at 7150m and 3 members, Sakuma, Tsunoda and Aota stayed there for 1st summit attack next morning 18 Dec. They started to climb at 4:00 am to top. Weather was good but strong wind blowing. They went up snow apron and up to plateau near the pinnacle at 8:45 am they reached 7650m but could not walk even one step from there because of the strongest wind so they abandoned the climbing. 3 began descent to C3. Accident occurred suddenly when they reached 7500m on snow apron. There was the real ice face. Sakuma slipped down 200m on slope at 10:25 am 18 Dec. At once Tsunoda and Aota went down to meet Sakuma's body but could not recognize his face. His head hit the rock as he fell; body was buried near C3 on 19 Dec at 7200m by his friends, Nobuhiro Shingo, Makoto Ishibashi and Kazunari Murakami. We stopped climbing activity after this accident.
   
  Caravan starts 22 Dec for KTM.


  Kikuchi & Yamada - 10 Nov 82

  Others arrive 11th Nov; leave 15 Nov by bus to Trisuli Bazaar 
  Route = NE Face (normal route)
  Arrive BC end Nov 28 or 29th; hope make BC higher than previous ones, maybe 4800m.
  3 camps above BC, tents but maybe inside crevasses
  C3 7200m, from there maybe semi-alpine-style

  All 10 members have experience over 8000m including Kikuchi who stays at BC all time and including cameraman.

  2 Sherpas above BC for cameraman.
  5 oxygen bottles only, for medical use and if jet stream requires for climb summit before Xmas.


  Kikuchi - 18 Oct 82

  Total 9 members; others arrive end Oct/early Nov and leave KTM 10-12 Nov. 
  route = NE Face (normal route)
  No Sherpas on climb
  No oxygen
  Leader: Noboru Yamada, 33, who has climbed Dhaulagiri I, 21/10/78 and Kangchenjunga, 9/5/81


expid: KARY82401
peakid: KARY
year: 1982
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Hajime Nagatoshi
sponsor: Nepal-Japan Joint Exp to Mt. Karyolung (Kokudo Chiriin AC)
ascent1: 3rd
approach: Lukla
bcdate: 1982-12-09
smtdate: 1982-12-24
smttime: 1230
termdate: 1982-12-29
campsites: BC(09/12,4300m),C1(16/12,5050m),C2(21/12,5670m),Smt(24/12)
routememo:
  Yamada - 6 Jan 83

  Route was same as 1982 autumn. Saw North Ridge route, which if preferred would have taken long time to make its BC and this route already known to Pemba Tshering who was autumn 1982 summiter also. No avalanches, no accidents or frostbite.

  24 Dec weather was snowfall and very strong winds. 4 more members in C2 for another summit attack but decided too dangerous because fresh snow avalanches possible and safety was first consideration.
   
  3 Sherpas only above BC = 3 Sherpas members
  Did not use oxygen at all.
  All camp dates and altitudes given by Ministry of Tourism correct.


  Sharma, Tourism - 4 Jan 83

  Karyolung joint expedition  

  24 Dec:  1) Ang Kami Sherpa, 30
           2) Pemba Tshering Sherpa, 38
           3) Akira Yamada, 1950, surveyor, Toyama
           4) Katsuichi Tanaka, 1954, Miyagi

  to summit. Started from C2 5670m (established 21 Dec) at 6:00 am and on top 12:30 pm. Stayed on top 20 mins and 12:50 pm started descent; 15:00 arrived C2. 25 Dec they returned to BC at 4300m (9 Dec).

  C1 5050m 16 Dec
  All members well; leave BC soon after 25 Dec.
  6 Japanese and 3 Nepalese members.


  Doi - 30 Nov 82

  Fly to Lukla 4 Dec is plan but baggage not yet in KTM, so probably delay
  4 days to BC from Lukla.

  Route may be North Ridge, maybe NE Face (same as aut 1982) if conditions not good on North Ridge; think will not use same route as autumn.


  BC at 4800m northwest of Lumding Kharka for North Ridge route and 
  C1 5700m
  C2 6200m
  1st summit attack 23 Dec if leave
  2nd  "        "   30 Dec 
  3rd  "        "    3 Jan

  Return to KTM 13 Jan from Lukla; must return to Japan on 16 Jan
  4 Sherpas including 3 members above BC
  Nepal-Japan Joint Expedition to Mt Karyolung.
  Medical oxygen only


expid: DHA182401
peakid: DHA1
year: 1982
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: So Anma
sponsor: Academic Alpine Club of Hokkaido Dhaulagiri Exped 1982-83
ascent1: 22nd
approach: Pokhara->Dhampus Pass
bcdate: 1982-11-01
smtdate: 1982-12-13
smttime: 1530
termdate: 1982-12-17
campsites: TempBC(01/11,4700m),BC(02/12,5800m),C1(03/12,6700m),C2(12/12,7400m),C3(13/12,7800m),Smt(13/12)
routememo:
  Anma & Koizumi - 2 Jan 83

  4760m had rest camp (was temporary BC also) where expeditions must have BC on col. Arrived 4700m on Nov 1 by advance party and started making route to BC on 2nd Nov, but icefall in very bad condition, so could not make permanent route around icefall till mid-Nov. Really started climb in mid-Nov.

  Tourism Ministry's other camp dates and altitudes correct.

  BC to C1 very easy route and C1 made only 1 day after BC.
  C1 to C2 took 9 days because of strong winds.

  Wangchu dumped oxygen because thought might unnecessary (had climbed to Manaslu and Makalu summit without oxygen). Then felt dizzy and became a reason for biv at 8030m since Wangchu took more time in his climb after going off oxygen. So although on 13 Dec other members made C3 after Koizumi and Wangchu had left C2 for top. C3 never used; more dangerous to walk in dark that to biv at 7930m. Had taken little snow-saw and pick to make biv snowhole, no sleeping bag or bivy bag but down jacket and trousers.

  Koizumi used oxygen all way to top but at top it ran out and were unable find bottle Wangchu dropped.

  Only 2 climbing Sherpas: Sirdar Ang Pemba and Wangchu.

  2nd summit attempt in 16th by Hanai, Ishimura and Anma reached 7500m where waited for wind to stop but it did not; they did not use C3.

  No 3rd attempt.
  No accidents and Koizumi and Wangchu only little frostbite.
  Not so cold but wind stronger than Koizumi.

  Anma: winds 40-50 m/sec; recorded 40 m/sec and then records blown away.

  Electric at BC: solar battery produced 60 watts and generator 800 watts. Solar gave constant power and generator propellor broken after 1 week by wind. 

  Weather short term forecasts by storage batteries daily from Delhi and from Tashkent long term forecasts. Were very useful and correct. Also received from AIR. Depended on these for climbing program; had weather intelligence officer in Nagoshi; forecasts of bad weather 1/2 day margin.

  Only 2 times summit chance: 13-15 and 27-28 Dec when no strong winds.


  Anma & Koizumi - 30 Dec 82

  1 porter heavy appendix sick so asked for helicopter.
  No accidents. All Ok except for icefall porter.
  Could use other expeditions fixed rope.

  Japanese summiter:

  30 mins on top, took photos and movies. Found nothing on top, no pole found; raised no Japanese flag since only private party.

  Climbing problem is high winds. Further reason because of rockfall: all camps were snowholes which are very effective against wind and rock and this very warm.

  Climbed to summit from C2 at 7400m to top with oxygen. C3 made 7800m by other party but never used. Biv at 7980m instead of going to C3 because was very dark and not safe. Both he and Sherpa got slight frostbite during biv from 6:00 pm to 7:00 am.

  So Anma in high altitude more than 8000m in this season very severe conditions very strong wind, very low temperature and low density of air. Now there is snow falling which means they cannot see the route. "I think it is very severe."

  Only 2 times this month possible for high ascent: 13-15th and 27th.


  Comments about Japanese Everest 1982 Winter expedition:

  Akio Koizumi: Kato is very strong man, but Kobeyashi maybe only one night without oxygen. I'm afraid for Kato also after 3 nights.

  Anma: Kato's ascent "very adventurous but he will have not so much scientific information about high altitude". No suicide attempt. He goes 3 times to Mount Everest and to get hat trick. I think he knows all about Everest. I think he attempts in confidence of success.


  Sharma, Tourism - 22 Dec 82

  C2 12 Dec  7400m
  C3 13 Dec  7800m

  13 Dec Wangchu Sherpa (32) amd Akio Koizumi reached 3:30 pm. Claim 1st mid-winter 8000m mountain.

  All camps without tents but by snowholes.
  Summiters started from C2 at 7:00 am on 13 Dec.

  Weather fine in am but cloudy from afternoon. Wangchu used oxygen to 8000m and dropped it because of weight and after that his condition became worse. At top Koizumi spoke to BC by walkie-talkie: "AACH stand on top of Dhaulagiri I mid-winter. Thank you everybody. I climbed by the whole power of AACH" and passed birthday greetings to deputy leader.

  Koizumi's oxygen finished at summit and it became dark so at 6:45 pm they made snowhole at 7930m and stayed night. Fortunately temperature was -30 degrees C. "It seems miracle that they were alive near 8000m" says leader.
   
  14 Dec 7:00 am they started descent but sometimes became confused and slept on the snow. 1:30 pm 7500m Koizumi and Wangchu met 2 members coming up and returned C2 at 2:30 pm safely.

  "2 summiters got slight frostbite but conditions is Ok."

  2nd attack held 16 Dec but 3 men with draw because severe jet stream. Not known whether expedition finished.


  Anma & Nagoshi - 16 Oct 82

  Total 15 members: general leader and asst who came to Nepal mid-Dec and go to Pokhara. So 13 members on climb (really 12 because of Nagoshi at BC).
   
  3 in KTM and 10 left in several parties beginning 4 Oct. Caravan route to Dhampus Pass, could be closed later. 1st party arrive BC after 10 Nov.

  Anma meets them at Marpha or Jomsom 1-5 Nov and all arrive BC together 10 Nov 5800m on NE Col.

  Route = NE Ridge; 4 camps above, C4 7800m 

  Very cold and very windy so BC = 4 or 5 snowholes. They will have electric generator = solar cells and wind generator; electric power for heating, cooking, light and receiving weather charts from Tashkent and Delhi.

  25 oxygen for climbing above C4 and sleeping in C4, important in winter above 8000m because of heat loss.

  2 or 3 Sherpas above BC. Summit 20 Dec or 25 Dec. Very difficult to go up after end Dec because of wind and lower temperatures. 2 or 3 members may be to top.

  Anma waits in KTM till 1 Nov or goes on trek and return to KTM by 1 Nov for winter climb permit.

  Other 2 now in KTM leave tomorrow.


expid: GAUR79101
peakid: GAUR
year: 1979
route1: SW Face
nation: USA
leaders: William A. Read, Pertemba Sherpa
sponsor: Nepal-American Joint Gaurishankar Expedition
ascent1: 1st
countries: Nepal
approach: Lamabagar->Bhote Kosi->Rongshar Gorge
bcdate: 1979-04-08
smtdate: 1979-05-08
smttime: 1515
campsites: BC(08/04,4900m),ABC(13/04,5000m),C1(19/04,5250m),C2(25/04,5875m),C3(03/05,6550m),Smt(08/05)
routememo:
  Al Read, Press conf - 18 May 79

  Route = SW Face-SW Ridge very, very long and goes only to South Summit with another problem ridge to Main Summit. So took alternative face route which made logistics easier. 

  C3 highest camp but 2'x5' at 21,500 ft on 3 May.

  Only 1 summit attempt: C3 so small. After Roskelley and Dorje on top, had minor illness, Schmitz minor frostbite in feet, others not acclimatized and Hennek had to leave.

  Roskelley: technically this route as hard or harder than any that has been done above in Himalayas - not as high as many. Technical = ice and rock climbing is same of hardest in Alps.

  9000 ft fixed rope used - face 8000 ft. Some vertical ice - last rock band, standing in slings from pitons not really secure.

  Left C3 at 5:30 am and took 10 hours to top, putting in fixed rope up last 2000 ft of very hard climbing. Summit broad snow plateau of soccer field size - 15 mins on summit.

  North Buttress of Nanda Devi as hard rock climbing but for ice climbing can't find anything harder in world.
   
  Roskelley 90's ice pitch above C3. "This climb harder than K2 and Dhaulagiri - at 22,000 ft this the biggest thrill for me. Showing you have the skill and stamina to do it."

  Dorje not a technical climber, but had strength and will-power to do this climb; most impressive says Roskelley.
   
  Pertemba went to C3; he had opportunity to go to summit, but he insisted others go first; he was going strong, but wanted his collegues to have first chance.

  Dorje on 6 Everest expeditions; on American Manaslu Expedition 1978.


  Jennifer Read - 9 May 79

  Dennis Hennek arrived KTM feels fine now, but didn't until he got below 10,000 ft on 6th. Left BC on 5th; got sick at 22,000 feet on 3rd. C3 at 22,000 ft couple days before and summit indirect (i.e., on 5 to 8 May) - who not decided - on West Face. 


  Jennifer Read - 2 May 79

  Gaurishankar expedition attempting West Face which is very steep. SW Ridge "wanders" and leads no where - all broken up.

  Strongest climbers have been John Roskelley and Kim Schmitz with Pertemba doing well. Dennis Hennek and Al Read have been sick (bronchitis) and Jim Morrissey say's he's too old. C1 near bottom of face which is about 6000 ft.

   
  Al Read - 25 March 79

  Leave tomorrow altogether. Arrive BC in about 11 days above Lamabagar at head of Bhote Kosi River at about 16,000 ft.

  British NW Ridge is now in Tibet.
  Route = West or SW Ridge
  97 porters

  Most difficult part of route is getting up to South Summit - long knife-edge ridge with no place for camps. Will be an ABC; from there begin work on ridge and maybe above this camp. Will be able to dig snow cave for C1 at about 6100m. C2 below S summit. Most difficult part = ABC to C2 at about 6700m. Maybe small camp on saddle between South and Main Summit.
   
  Permit is for west side so have another option: West Face part in Nepal. Ridge probably more reasonable objective. Ridge looks safe but very hard technicallly.
   
  Once BC established, 4 weeks to top
  Only medical oxygen
  10 members including 2 leaders
   
  Sirdar Ang Nima stays at BC; none above BC that isn't member.

  We are up against it: unexplored not technically difficult but very strong and determined team. Given good weather luck and continued determination and cooperation we have good chance. Unexplored in sense British were on other side part of the mountain.


expid: NAMP79101
peakid: NAMP
year: 1979
route1: W Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: William A. Roos
sponsor: Intermountain Himalayan Expedition
approach: Bajang->Seti Khola-Kali Gad->Chamlia Khola
bcdate: 1979-05-04
smtdate: 1979-05-24
termdate: 1979-05-26
campsites: BC(04/05,3960m),C1(18/05,4575m),C2(19/05,5180m),C3(22/05,5640m),xxx(24/05,5640m)
routememo:
  Wells - 8 June 79

  3 days out, he fell in boulder rock field in river area and injured knee and couldn't continue with expedition.

  BC on 4th May at 13,000 ft due south of S Ridge of Api and ENE of point 6250.

  From BC 2-3 miles for ferrying loads to a dump which became C1 at 15,000 ft SW of Nampa Peak. C2 1000 ft below col west of Nampa at 17,000 ft on about 11th May. Daily snowfall of 2-3 inches except 2 clear days after arrival at BC on 4 May. At C2 had heavier snowfall on 20th May in severe storm. Got onto col above C2 and put camp there at about 18,000 ft in tent and snow cave on 22 May. From C3 started work on W Ridge. Went to maximum altitude of 18,500 ft east along ridge in next couple of days.

  Serious climbing ahead to 20,000 ft and stopped climbing because ran out of time. Last day of upward was on 24 May when storm came in and ended idea of ascent 25th. If had had time, would have had no trouble with route. Camps were not fixed camps - when made C3 pulled up C2. Didn't have equipment for fixed camps. 

  Left BC on 26th May on return march.

  Highest point reached on 24 May no higher than 18,500 ft. Would have meant another week of climbing to reach top. Members had other commitments. Had 10 days food left.


  Wells & 2 Sibleys - 5 April 79

  Want to go up S Face and down W Ridge. On face perhaps only 1 camp in snow cave - on ridge perhaps several prepared camps, perhaps not.


  Roos - 2 April 79

  Probably up S Face or S Buttress on south side and then to W Ridge up high on ridge. Somewhat different from British and Japanese routes.

  BC at 13,000 ft at same place as British (John Allen). 40-50 porters to BC probably about one month on mountain if not delayed badly getting to BC.

  No Sherpas above BC; no oxygen for climbing or sleeping.


expid: KUSU79101
peakid: KUSU
year: 1979
route1: W Face (recon)
route2: N Ridge (to 5600m)
route3: SE Face (recon)
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Peter Hillary
sponsor: 1979 New Zealand Party
countries: Canada
approach: Lamosangu->Ghat/Monzo->BC
othersmts: Recon of Ama Dablam
campsites: xxx(5600m)
routememo:
  Peter Hillary - 18 Aug 79

  Kusum Kanguru Spring 1979

  Peter Hillary and Murray Jones started from Jubing through real bamboo jungles up Kusum Drang Valley to approach not from west but area full of very steep ravines which would have taken very great deal of time to get porters and gear there, so abandoned W approach. Very impressive face, this W Face.

  Then went up Dudh Koshi to Monjo and then east for approach from north to Kyashar Glacier. Murray Jones and Peter climbed N Rib to about 17,500 ft at what appeared to be site of Japanese C1. Jones and Hillary had very hard shoes on so turned back, then Jones dropped out.

  Nena Ritchie then joined Peter and got to 18,000 ft just below Col to NE of Kusum Kanguru. They reached 18,500 ft. Next day when steepness and difficulty increased sharply and they were not strong enough team.

  Then did recce with Nena, Nigel Horrocks and Jim Ferrey from Lukla, SW to Zatr Og pass and up Hinku Valley to Lungsamba (Yak header's hut). Climbed up to Lungsamba Glacier at about 18,000 ft looking up glacier (from just below the G on the Schneider map) up SE Face.


expid: RATC96301
peakid: RATC
year: 1996
route1: W Ridge via W Smt
nation: Japan
leaders: Mitsunori Watanabe
sponsor: Nepal Police-Shinshu University Joint Himalaya Exp 1996
ascent1: 1st-3rd
countries: Nepal
bcdate: 1996-09-20
smtdate: 1996-10-14
termdate: 1996-10-22
campsites: BC(20/09,5200m),ABC(30/09,5500m),C1(01/10,6000m),C2(08/10,6550m),Smt(14,16,18/10)
accidents: Doctor broke ankle on return march; sick kitchen boy
achievment: 1st ascent in 1st attempt
agency: Cosmo Treks/Nepal Police
routememo:
  BC  at east of Phu village (side of glacier)
  ABC at side of glacier
  C1  on plateau west of West Ridge
  C2  on West Ridge just east of West Peak.

  From C2 to main summit 1500 meters: very long avilable for another camp before summit. Whole route not technically difficult, but fixed rope from ABC to C1; C1 to C2 and C2 to top 900m because Japanese members 20 yrs to 54 yrs old and Nepalese members also wanted rope fixed.

  People of Phugaon very difficult: work only 1-2 hrs/day, very uncooperative (Tibetans).

  C2 establishment dealyed by heavy snowfall.

  High altitude porters: 
    Durga Bahadur Tamang
    Tul Bahadur Tamang
    Nooru (Nuru) Sherpa (Sirdar)
    Phul Bahadur Rai
    Dambar Bahadur Gurung


expid: KANG79101
peakid: KANG
year: 1979
route1: W Face of N Col-N Ridge-N Face
nation: UK
leaders: Doug Scott
sponsor: British Kangchenjunga Expedition
ascent1: 4th
countries: France
approach: Dharan->Ghunsa->Pangpema (BC)
bcdate: 1979-04-04
smtdate: 1979-05-16
smttime: 1700
termdate: 1979-05-20
campsites:
  BC(04/04,5000m),C1(05/04,5200m),C2(14/04,5800m),C3(28/04,6900m),C4(02/05,7400m),C5(04/05,7900m),Smt(16/05)

routememo:
  Scott - 29 May 1979

  Attempt as of Boardman's letter of 9th May:

  Without oxygen no big deal if you give yourselves time to acclimatize as we did inadvertently. All 3 of us on top 3/4 hrs with no trouble, no hallucinating, fairly technical near top rock to deal with. Just a matter of giving yourself time. Without oxygen "has been a bit overstated."

  Went up W Face to col at 22,600 ft. So steep had to fix ropes up it and only one of expedition's Sherpas could manage it (Ang Phurba). Then to N Ridge to N Face - not even on Indian's route, for where Indians got onto ridge, Brits on face.

  2nd attempt: 13th May to try for C4 snow cave at 24,500 ft thinking to climb all night but got really violent storm early on 13th and built snow caves at 26,000 ft. George and Pete had gone ahead to make higher snow cave about 1500 ft from top. At this point George burnt himself out and felt couldn't go on 3rd attempt. He he had done lot of leading on lower part of face, went back to C4 and decided weather looked brighter and could go back up from there. Night of 15th occupied a cave at 26,000 ft and on 16th 8:00 am 3 British set off together up right of N Ridge out of NW Face really. Took turns leading and after about 2000 ft of climbing reached pinnacles of 1955 route and hence to 8 ft. below summit (stayed below summit because of local feeling). Arrived about 5:00 pm and stayed 3/4 hrs and then back to cave in dark arriving at 9:00 pm in magnificent storm's bronze sunset. Had reasonably good snow conditions which facilated climb. Westerly winds are constant battle and have to pick your time when its not so fierce.

  All members arrived KTM - all well.


  Doug Scott letter to Cheney - 6 April 1979

  What LO calls BC at 5140m is actally temp BC (at Pangpema, which is Gorch Sherpa's altitude) - actual BC to be at 17,500 ft. 5335m up Kangchenjunga Glacier. Pangpema is where 1930 International Expedition had BC. Higher site better for a BC for lightweight, modern expedition.

  Pete Boardman "still having problem with foot but should be OK."


  MJ Cheney - 18 April 1979

  Doug Scott writes from BC that Peter Broadman broke a bone in his foot where he slipped on a boulder and had to be carried for 4 days on march to BC; not clear whether these were last 4 days).


  Scott & Boardman - 17 March 1979

  Kangchenjunga Glacier just west of Nepal Peak with BC at Pangpema, a pasture, at 5739m. Then so to head of the Glacier and east to foot of North Col and thence to Col (3000 feet steep climbing to Col) at 22,500 feet; then North Ridge and North Face to summit.

  In 1950 2 members approached this route when got avalanched at base of North Face and abandoned this route. Brits will go slightly left of their route.

  Leave today by air to Biratnagar; baggage left yesterday by truck. Leave for Dharan tonight and from Dharan 19 March. 45 porters from Dharan. Arrive BC in 18 days about 7 April.

  6-7 weeks time available for climbing and if first attempt fails, for a week's rest for another's camp above BC. C3 on North Col at 6900m (22,600 feet). Very steep wall up to Col which should take time with fixed ropes probably. Avalanches from NW Face to right of this wall threaten it; have to be careful not to get caught out high on mountain in bad weather because long way back to highest camp.

  This route very similar to Bettembourg on Broad Peak; he is one of four who have done fast alpine ascent of 8000m.

  1 bottle oxygen for medical purposes
  2 Sherpas maybe to the Col (not higher)


  Mike Cheney - 23 March 1979

  Actually left Dharan 18 March with 49 porters.


  Letter from Peter Boardman - 9 May 1979

  Established a camp on C3 on the North Col "bivouac snow cave" on the ridge at 24,500 ft. On the 4th May we made our first summit attempt and put a tent up out of the wind on the Sikkim side. At 1:30 am 5th May the wind direction changed and within an hour the tent had been destroyed by 100 mph gusts. This at 26,000 ft. So we spent the rest of the early morning escaping back down.

  Now we've had 3 days recuperation. 2 are moving back up for another go. All technical difficulties have been overcome. We just need our health to hold. The weather to be good. 


  Letter from Doug Scott - 21 May 1979

  We are down in BC sitting out bad weather after climbing within 100 meters of the North Col. We reckon we are at 22,200 (7800m) with our gear in place to like along the North Ridge.

  The fastest climbing is behind us. 3000m of North Face ground that has taken up 8 days; very exhausting.


expid: MAKA75301
peakid: MAKA
year: 1975
route1: S Face
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Ales Kunaver
sponsor: Yugoslav Himalayan Expedition to Makalu 1975
ascent1: 6th-9th
approach: Dharan->Shipton La-Barun Glacier (BC)
bcdate: 1975-09-05
smtdate: 1975-10-06
smttime: 1640
campsites:
  BC(05/09,4950m),C1(07/09,5850m),C2(09/09,6300m),Biv(14/09,6600m),C3(16/09,7000m),C4(22/09,7500m),C5(04/10,8050m),Smt(06,08,10-11/10)

routememo:
  Hamal, Ministry of Tourism - 9 Oct 75

  From LO (Yogendra Thapa):
  4th Oct C5 established
  6th Oct 8 am started ascent - 4:40 pm reached top:  Belak & Manfreda (former used oxygen, latter did not). Summiters stayed there 5 minutes.

  2nd group preparing for ascent.


  Kunaver - Oct 8 

  2nd assault team: Azman, Zaplotnik climbed mountain Makalu over South Face.
  Two more assault teams waiting their chance if weather fair.
  Falling ice caused serious problems on face.


  Kunaver - Oct 6

  30 days after BC established, at 12:40 pm 1st ascent team of 4 reached top of South Face and at 16:40 reached top of mountain - started from C5.

  Belak used oxygen all but 100m and Manfreda not at all.
  Other teams to reach top in 2-days intervals.


  Kunaver - 19 Aug 75

  All memebers probably started today from Dharan; at least majority of goods and members surely left today.

  LO = Subinspector Yogendra Thapa

  5th  day  Arikan Gaur
  10th day  Sedua
  16th day  BC

  BC - 4950m
  C1 - 5900m
  C2 - 6200-6250m
  Bivouac - about 6600m (prepare camp at first)
  C3 - about 7000m
  C4 - 7400-7500m
  C5 - about 8000m (maybe little less)
  C6 - pt 75-80 or 85-90 = about 8200m or 8250m

  March in should take 16 days. Immediately start route up to C2 or even in bad weather using 20 local men and 11 Sherpas.

  4 planned summit attacks with 1st opportunity after 21 days = middle Oct for 1st optimistic opportunity.

  Return to KTM from Tumlingtar (via scheduled flight probably) except 3 to Biratnagar with baggage.


  Letter from Ales Kunaver - 6 Oct 75

  Snowfall on 26th and 27th gave us at present of 1m snow in the Base and seriously damaged C3 and C4. At that moment up in the face was already all technical material for the final phase. To that moment we had an average of 3 days to establish a new high altitude camp.

  After snow stop we pulled down all tired men and so at once "plowed" the new snow.

  We reformed in 4 groups putting the tired ones to the tail. First group go a 10 men carry support with the aim to renew C3 and C4 to pitch C5 in 2 days and in further 2 days fix the ropes to the edge of face and to try the top. This was realized today without the delay. The top climbers Belak Stane with oxygen up to last 100m (oxygen ran out) and Marjan Manfreda without oxygen reached the edsge of the face at the point 88 (picture) at 12 and after the top of Makalu at 16. Reported quick return after some snaps due to late afternoon. Had constant radio contact and returned to C5 at the point 69 at 22:15 hours.
   
  Reported no problems and high spirits. You can imagine our feelings.

  In the face now three more attack teams in C4, C3 and Bivouac. The situation at the moment permits to run the machine ahead because all members in very good condition and the route equipped and permits quick return in emergency.

  If the weather will permit fulfilment of the maximum program the activites on the mountain will stop on Oct 14th and return march started on 16th.


  Letter from Ales Kunaver - 8 Sept 75

  We arrived here on 59 porters on 6 Sept morning. Had one day stop in the junge above Sedua, due to heavy raining. Other conditions normal; water, mud, leaches, etc.

  On 6 Sept had first transport to 5850-5900m. Up today 50 porter loads, 13 Sherpa loads and 27 members loads in C1 and camp fixed and in action on 7th. Today 10 men sleeping in C1 and tomorrow fixing C2 in a snow hole at 6250m.

  Have one light pneumonia and a bad chronical bronchitis (sardar) brought with to the trip. He goes tomorrow to Sedua to recover and if not better back to KTM.


expid: AMAD79101
peakid: AMAD
year: 1979
route1: SW Ridge
route2: SW Ridge-S Face
nation: USA
leaders: Roger C. Brown
sponsor: American Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 2nd,3rd
ascent2: 4th
countries: W Germany
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1979-03-29
smtdate: 1979-04-22
smttime: 1700
termdate: 1979-05-02
campsites: BC(29/03,4600m),ABC(03/04,5000m),C1(05/04,5750m),C2(08/04,5975m),C3(18/04,6325m),Smt(22,25,30/04)
accidents: No accidents. Boysen walked to BC Ok in larger boots. No serious illnesses
achievment: 1st solo ascent
routememo:
  Tom Frost - 9 May 79

  South Ridge (slightly west of south - left-hand ridge).

  Jeff Lowe on 30th April to summit when supposed to be clearing mountain of ropes. Basically same route with same diversion into gullies between 2 South Ridge above C1 to C3. 0n 30th left C1 at 3 am and to summit and C3 at 4 pm on a route probably harder than others route.

  No accidents or illness - Boysen frostnip.

  That's a hard route and we really impressed with those folks back in 1961.

  Rocky ridge between C1 and C2 hard. Our C3 at Bishop's C4 and route from C2 to C3 harder still. Ice wall now 50 feet high (20 feet in 1961) but easy for Jeff. A technical ridge all the way from C1.

  Route was in excellent condition, dry and cold when we arrived. Premonsoon best season when not lot of snow on it.


  Rodney Korich - 29 April 70

  Robinson and Wasson reached summit 25 April. Left C3 6:00 am and reached top about 3:00 pm and back to C3 about 7:00 pm (after dark). On top in cloud and saw nothing.

  Same members in KTM ex-Lukla - men mostly and 4 summiters.


  Roger Brown - 25 April 79

  Korich's information correct re summit.

  Came down in dark and Boysen has light frostbitten toes; very cold and windy. Left 7:30 am C3 1700 feet below top and got back 9:30-10:00 pm. Had only 1 headlamp (with Jeff Lowe who led them down alley).

  Today Robinson and Wasson saw them today 10:00 less than 700 feet from top.

  C3 established about 4 days before 22nd by Jeff Lowe and Boysen and Breashears.

  No accidents. Boysen walked to BC Ok in larger boots. No serious illnesses.

  Ruwitch, Bossier and Dubin did not get to top because 1st two didn't acclimatize and 3rd because dysentery. 


  Rodney Korich - 25 Jan 79

  5 pm on 22nd 8 members on top:
    J Lowe
    Boysen
    D Breashears
    G Lowe
    Pilafian
    Wright
    Frost
    Lhakpa Dorje


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Ministry of Tourism - 11 April 79

  Tom Frost reports via SYB radio today C1 established by
    Martin Boysen
    Greg Lowe
    Jeff Lowe
    David Breashears

  Date not given.
  Health good.
  Weather overcast with intermittent snowfall.


  Rodney Korich - 22 March 79

  Have requested permission to traverse and descend north side.

  Pilatus mountain flight RQ by Brown to go around not on 20th April which hopes will be summit date.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma - 3 April 79

  Permission for north side refused; request came too late.


  Tom Frost - 19 March 79

  Route = South Ridge, maybe traverse to North Ridge.

  ABC paying for expedition and were making for them: primary objective is to make a good film of climbing a Himalayan peak. To make a good film you need to get to top because thats the most important part of the film, but must get there in way to make good pix; hence known route on know, not with known varied types of climbing situations. 

  Leave KTM 20 or 21 March, if plane to Lukla available; hope established BC by 1 April and completed with project by end of April.


  BC at Mingbo 15,000 feet and ABC at Green Hut at 17,000 feet near foot of ridge
  C1 at 19,000 feet. Around C1 difficulties start on route (18,700-19,000 feet)
  (need low BC for guests including wives and kinds).

  Assume will pretty much follow Hillary group's route and camps with 4 high camps of traverse, would need support on north side with series camps; this not yet worked out and may not happen anyway. 

  2 HA Sherpas
  Only medical oxygen

  Ama Dablam
  Left for Lukla 20 March 
    All Frosts
    Boysen
    Jeff Lowe
    Greg Lowe
    Pilafian
    Phil Freedman
    Breashears
    Sirdar Ang Temba
    Wright
    Ruwitch

  Left for Lukla 21 March
    Brown
    Dubin 

  Left for Lukla 22 March
    All other members except Korich and all other guests


  Summit/Aug-Sept 1979
  Ama Dablam 1979 by Tom Frost 

  We began with the usual aspirations of a small group of friends going to the Himalayas to do what we enjoy - making films and climbing mountains. Roger Brown was sure he could get financial support for filming an ascent of Ama Dablam. Three years later and one month before our tentative department, he was proved right.

  At that point, because of the introduction of money, our small original group which included Dough Robinson, Tex Bossier, Greg Lowe, and Jonathan Wright, exploded to 24 as more climbers, more film people, kayakers, friends, wives and children were added. Most important for me, it included the members of my own family.

  The thrust of the expedition remained unchanged, however - to climb the most beautiful mountain in the Nepal Himalaya, a mountain sacred to the Sherpas, by the proven photogenic route of Bishop's 1961 climb; to produce a superb quality mountaineering film for ABC Sports/American Sportsman; and last, but not least, to participate in an expedition that would be be enjoyable for all.

  It would have been miracle if all that were accomplished, but strangely miracles seemed to become almost commonplace on this expedition. It seemed amazing:

  - that the peak was entered on the permitted list after our application was submitted;
  - that Rodney Korich could implement the whole logistics effort in such a short time; 
  - that Jeff Lowe and Martin Boysen were able to join us on short notice to help meet 
    ABC/s film needs;
  - that we had (and needed!) Greg and Jonathan, two of this country's finest mountain
    cameraman;
  - that our twin Otter survived its stimulated crash landing at Lukla;
  - that Martin and David Breashears were able to climb nearly a dozen routes on the 
    big boulder at BC (located at Chome, near Mingbo, at 15,000 ft.);
  - that all of the members continued to pull together during three weeks of effort to 
    complete our first priority, the film (while enjoying our second priority, the climb);
  - that the unsuccessful French expedition of the previous fall left enough fixed rope
    to enable us to complete the task;
  - that eight people with their ropes continually becoming entangled were able to 
    struggle to the top on the first summit day;
  - that Jeff was able to engineer a 2000-foot night descent over technical ground, 
    thus saving us both anguish and undercooled toes;
  - that the two-man second summit day was just as slow as the first;
  - that our health and strength remained good and that we sustained no injuries;
  - that we returned home friends, stronger friends than before.

  In the face of such a string of miracles, I stand all amazed. After the climb was completed the majority of our party raced for KTM and the Arun.


expid: KTEG79101
peakid: KTEG
year: 1979
route1: N Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Kazuo Yuda
sponsor: Sangaku Doshikai Kangtega Expedition 1979
ascent1: 2nd
approach: Khumbu Valley->Hinku Nup Glacier (BC)
bcdate: 1979-04-05
smtdate: 1979-04-21
smttime: 1410
campsites: BC(05/04,5080m),C1(08/04,5350m),Biv(20/04,6000m),Smt(21/04)
routememo:
  Hiro Kuraoka - 23 Oct 2019

  1979 Japanese KTEG team only to false summit according to Hiro. They had climbed a route in N Face, but not to main summit, but only to false summit (6685m). Other mountaineers from same mountain club say nobody from Japan ever climbed KTEG before. This would make Hiro's team first Japanese to ascend KTEG.


  Yuda, Hondo and Takeuchi, Shanta Bhawan Hospital - 29 April 79

  Ishibashi and Dr with caravan to Lukla for airplane to KTM; arrived Lukla 4 May. Takeuchi frostbitten toes and feet; Hondo unknown back problem and Yuda broken left leg and left finger.

  21 April Yuda slipped at 6400m and he and Hondo fell 40m into crevasse (30m from top to bottom of crevasse) which had one side hard rock and other soft arching move head snow.

  3 men sleep night 21/22 April near crevasse - also Hondo but 2 summiters don't know he is there and Yudo in crevasse.

  22 April: Kazuo and Ishibashi tried to help Yudo out of crevasse (trouble because of back) and Ishibashi even went down into crevasse to try to help Yuda out but no success; after failed Hondo and Takeuchi went down for help and Ishibashi stayed at crevassse with sleeping bag, biv tent and jacket and food. 

  Takeuchi arrived BC 22 night and Hondo 23 morning. 24 April Dr and Peniur Sherpa went up to get Yuda out of crevasse, but on 23rd Yuda had climbed out of crevasse and stayed there. Dr and Peniur Sherpa reached crevasse 26 April; they started down and reach C1 27 April, arrived BC and 28 helicopter to KTM.

  Yuda had triple shoes and overshoes 1st night; 2nd night got Hondo's sleeping bag. 

  Fall: 8:00 am 21 April. Yuda out of crevasse 12:00 noon 23 April after 3-1/2 hours effort. Yuda believed 2nd day he would get out of crevasse because 1st night had dream many American men around him.

  Could use only right arm and right leg to climb out so used knees to get out of crevasse - going down: sometimes crawled on knees, sometimes pulled by others on biv tents, sometimes on steep ice, on his bottom.

  Will climb again: Kangchenjunga Spr '80.

  Japanese Dr in KTM estimates leg will need 3 months to heal. Yuda will go to Japan after caravan arrives KTM but Hondo son and Takeuchi with him.


  Naoe Sakashita, 32, salesman Tokyo

  Takeuchi and Ishibashi summit Kangtega 21 April.

  21 April on way from bivouac site at 6000m (above C1) to summit very steep ice face - top man Ishibashi, fixed rope and using this rope Takeuchi followed and after him Hondo and Yuda followed but point not strong and it (point) broke and Hondo and Yuda fell 80m in morning 1 after 1 hours climbing from biv. Other 2 didn't know about fall and went on to summit at 14:10 hours. In afternoon weather not good; near biv site, they again had to biv (without food). Next am 22 April, found other two near biv.

  Hondo not so serious and (cracked back bone) can move by himself and he biv by self night of 21/22 Arpil, but Yuda's left leg broken and he stayed in crevasse. He could talk on 22nd. 

  Ishibashi took care of Yuda and stayed near him night of 22/23 April while Hondo and Takeuchi went to BC to ask for rescue helicopter.

  23 April - doctor went up alone probably because Takeuchi slight frostbite in toes and Hondo's back injured. One Sherpa Penuri went up with doctor.

  Yuda maybe in crevasse still; other 3 men may try to get him out of crevasse - hope he still alive.

  S. went to rally Thamserku to help but they not there; they were above 6000m and will climb to top in 3-4 days.


  Sharma, Ministry of Tourism - 25 April 79

  21 April - 4 members
  1) Kazuo Yuda (leader)
  2) Nobuyasu Hondo
  3) Makoto Ishibashi
  4) Koichi Takeuchi

  Started climbing from C1 at 5500m. 2 fell down (Yuda and Hondo) about 40m because fixed rope broke. Other 2 members went to summit from C1. Yuda's leg broken and Hondo's chest received blow. Hondo eating and going down but Yuda as on 23rd was at 6000m on ridge between Kangtega Main and K II and army helicopter to bring back to KTM tomorrow.

  BC
  ABC
  C1, expedition's camps
  5-member team - other is doctor in BC.

  LO: Yuda could not be taken out of crevasse as of 23rd.
  2:10 pm Maruyama & Takeuchi climbed summit on 21st - other 2 while climbing, fell and not possible take Yudo out of snow crevasse, so Ang Temba sent for helicopter.

  Hondo 22 April in C1 says Ang Temba
  Dr & Takeuchi were to go yesterday to get Yuda out of crevasse

  Dr Hiroshi Maruyama
  One Sherpa with expedition


  Ang Temba - 25 April 79

  Helicopter tomorrow for leader's injury from fall in crevasse - other member also injured at 6400m.

  Takeuchi and Ishibashi to summit on 21 April

  4 to summit : Leader Hondo and Kondo in crevasse and 2 to top
  C1 - 5800m = high biv = 6000m
  and leader maybe in high biv and may die


  Suzuki, Thamserku leader - 16 March 79

  BC about 31 March on Hinku Nup Glacier
  Route North Face. 2 high camps - C2 6000m 
  Summit after 3 weeks all members.
  1 Sherpa BC only.
  Also very steep.
  All members will be in KTM 22 March and leave for Lukla 27 March.


expid: ANN179101
peakid: ANN1
year: 1979
route1: N Face (Dutch Rib)
nation: Japan
leaders: Hironobu Yagi
sponsor: Shizuoka Himalayan Expedition 1979
ascent1: 7th
approach: Pokhara->Mristi Khola
bcdate: 1979-03-28
smtdate: 1979-05-08
smttime: 1205
termdate: 1979-05-14
campsites:
  BC(28/03,4200m),C1(07/04,4900m),C2(13/04,5400m),C3(25/04,6100m),C4(28/04,6850m),C5(05/05,7500m),Smt(08/05)

routememo:
  Kubota - 31 May 1979

  Want 2 or 3 more summit attacks, but not good weather and many members had altitude sickness and colds. Takita had bad high-altitude sickness on 5 May just as about to go for summit so used much time and many members to carry him down to BC.

  Used Dutch route.
  No accidents or frostbite.
  Good friendship with French.


  Yasuo Kubota - 23 Feb 1979

  Annapurna I by Dutch-USA women route
  6 members now in KTM, others 6 arrive 26 Feb: 9 climbers.
  Leave KTM 4 and 6 March by road to Pokhara.
  Caravan start 8 March, arrive BC 20 March; 250 porters to BC
  BC at 4500m. 5 camps above BC; C5 7500m, little east of US to avoid French team.

  Difficult part is C2 to C3 with knife-ridge near C3 and steep and avalanches. 
  Summit late April or early May.

  1 sirdar and 5 high-altitude Sherpas; sirdar Pemba Norbu of Namche.

  Oxygen only for sleeping at C5, not for any climbing.

  Have brought lot of extra medical supplies for locals during caravan; members in charge, pharmacist as well as doctor.


expid: TILI79101
peakid: TILI
year: 1979
route1: N Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yoshimi Yakushi
sponsor: Japan Tomari Himalayan Expedition
ascent1: 2nd,3rd
approach: Pokhara->Marshyangdi Valley->Khangsar
bcdate: 1979-04-03
smtdate: 1979-04-26
smttime: 0745
termdate: 1979-04-29
campsites: BC(03/04,4200m),ABC(07/04,5050m),C1(14/04,5200m),C2(24/04,6000m),Biv(25/04,7000m),Smt(26/04)
routememo:
  Saeki & summiters - 12 May 79

  1st summit group on 25th; left C2 and biv at 7000m. Route difficult, so went to top only on 26th.

  2nd party left C2 4:00 am and reached top after nearly 8 hours, at 13:50 hours.

  Araki's left big toe frostbitten during biv night.

  Route = North Ridge: rock ridge difficult from C1 to C2. No C3 because thought no need, only snow face. ABC to C2 long distance - lake traverse. Route more difficult than expected especially C1 to C2 on rock ridge, very sharp and unsound. 

  All members in KTM and Ok except Araki's toe. No accidents or serious illness.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 2 May 79

  Summit via North Ridge 26 April by:
    Mingma Tenzing Sherpa 
    Takashi Araki
    Haruo Yamamoto
  in 1st group at 7:45 am on top. 

  Also on 26 April by:
    Najang Yonden Sherpa
    Yutaka Ohe
  in 2nd group at 13:50 hours. Expedition finished. Leaving BC 29 April.


  Yakushi & Saeki - 13 March 79

  Japan Tomari Himalayan Expedition:

  Route = North Ridge (doubts French climbed East Ridge which is Great Barrier).

  Approach via Marshyangdi Khola because Kali Gandaki closed. North of Tilicho Lake make BC 4900m at foot of glacier feeding lake from west.

  All now in KTM. Arrived 11 March. Leave KTM about 18 March and begin caravan 21-22 March with about 60 porters; 13-14 days to BC, arrive 4 or 5 April.

  15 years ago Yakushi did recce. 

  Only 1 or 2 camps above BC. C1 at about 5500m on ridge and C2 about 6400m also on ridge. Summit about 25 April or 2-3 days later.

  3 H-A Sherpas including sirdar Lhakpa Tenzing.
  No oxygen for climbing or sleeping.

  Most difficult is North Ridge: half snow and half rock; rock in lower part and rock part most difficult because very sharp ridge.


expid: THAM79101
peakid: THAM
year: 1979
route1: SW Face-W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Takeshi Kimura
sponsor: Japanese Expedition Club to Thamserku
ascent1: 2nd
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1979-03-30
smtdate: 1979-04-27
smttime: 0815
campsites: BC(30/03,4500m),C1(06/04,5900m),C2(19/04,6300m),C3(26/04,6400m),Biv(27/04,6600m),Smt(28/04)
accidents: No accidents, illness, frostbite
routememo:
  S. Kimura - 5 May 79

  Thamserku has 2 peaks. 1 rock peak is central peak south-southwest of main peak, main peak is little higher.

  Expedition 1st reached rock peak 27 April and bivouacked there 27/28 (rock peak = virgin peak).

  28 April reached main summit 8:15 am and returned to attack camp same day.

  SW Face very difficult; very dangerous knife-ridge snow wall and snow wall at highest parts, so stopped 2nd summit attempt.

  Other Thamserku expedition climbed 6200-6300m and then returned to ABC for 3 days very slowly and so thought they had accident but this wrong. Think they are now in KTM.

  No accidents, illness, frostbite. 

  Only Takashi Kimura in KTM; others arrived about 10 May except Satoshi Kimura and 1 other who came earlier and left 3 May for jobs in Japan.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 2 May 79

  Thamserku (Japanese Expedition Club)

  Summit 28 April by 
    Satoshi Kimura (who arrived KTM today with another member) 
    Sakae Hosogai

  Summiters arrived C3 at 6300m 26 April 14:45 hours. 27 April left C3 7:00 am and climbed steep rock pillar to biv at 6500m at 16:45 hours. 28 April left biv 7:00 am and reached summit at 8:15 am, left summit at 9:15 am, arrived C3 at 5:00 am. All are well.


  Satoshi Kimura - 14 March 79

  9 total members: 3 arrive yesterday, others arrive 18 March.
  Leave KTM about 20 March by air to Lukla.
  Route from SW Face - arrive 25 March BC at 4000m
  3 high camps: 
  C1 (ABC) - 5000m
  C2 - 5800m
  C3 - 6300m after 3 weeks

  No Sherpas above BC; only one kitchen boy.
  No oxygen for climbing or sleeping.
  Other Japanese this spring from North Face - also very difficult route.

  SW Face: will climb via a ridge on this face; very steep: maybe 60%. Face is 1500m high. Mixed rock and ice on ridge.

  Hillary team climbed South Ridge, only previous attempt.


expid: NILC79101
peakid: NILC
year: 1979
route1: SE Ridge-S Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Masaki Aoki
sponsor: Matsuyama University Expedition to Nilgiri Central Peak
ascent1: 1st,2nd
approach: Pokhara->Kali Gandaki->Chhoya->BC (via helicopter)
bcdate: 1979-04-04
smtdate: 1979-04-04
smttime: 1130
termdate: 1979-05-03
campsites: BC(04/04,4100m),C1(10/04,4780m),C2(20/04,5450m),C3(26/04,6050m),Smt(30/04,01/05)
routememo:
  Aoki - 16 May 79

  Route = SE Ridge - few pitches rather difficult above C3 to top of SE Ridge at South Shoulder of Central peak (on ice). South Shoulder = beginning of South Ridge on North-South main ridge.

  1st group on top 11:30 am 30 April
  2nd group on top 10:30 am 1 May

  1st group left C3 and returned same day.

  2nd group also started from C3 on 30 April. Moved more slowly because carrying biv tent, sleeping bags and food. Biv that night at about 6500m and on 1 May went to top then biv at about 6200m at 8:00 pm (Aoki got some frostbite during 2nd biv night). Strong wind at summit but not at all at biv sites.

  No accidents or illness.


  Sakata - 17 March 79

  All members now in KTM (arrived yesterday). When leaving not known because baggage is in Bangkok. 

  Dates of birth:
    Aoki    5 Nov  34
    Hamada 27 Sept 55
    Itano  25 May  49
    Yuyama 16 Nov  49


  Sakata & Tsuda - 10 March 79

  2 members arrived    2 March
  5 members will come 16 March

  Leave KTM about 20 March - bus/truck Pokhara. Leave Pokhara 21 March with 60 porters. Caravan 15-20 days.

  Central Peak, approach via Thulobugin track to khola to West Nilgiri Glacier to south side of SE Ridge to Central Peak's South Ridge.

  Arrive BC 5-10 April. 4050m = BC on moraine where 2 Nilgiri glaciers meet
  4 high camps, C4 at about 6300-6400m
  30 days BC to summit = early May on summit
  1 sirdar and 2 Sherpas above BC
  No oxygen from Japan; looking for some for medical use, not climbing or sleeping


expid: HIME79301
peakid: HIME
year: 1979
route1: E Ridge (to 5800m)
route2: S Ridge (to 6100m)
nation: USA
leaders: Skip Horner
sponsor: American Himalchuli Expedition 1979
approach: Dumre->Dordi Khola
bcdate: 1979-10-02
smtdate: 1979-11-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to snow conditions
campsites: BC(02/10,4725m),C1(07/10,5240m); NewBC.C1(28/10,5485m),C2(30/10,5700m),xxx(01/11,6100m)
accidents: No injuries or oother serious problems
routememo:
  Skip Harner - 11 Nov 79

  Got to 20,000 ft on S Ridge about 1st or 2nd Nov. High camp at 19,700 ft on E Ridge. Then 500 ft ice wall above 20,000 ft negotiable but only 3 members left, not enough support for safety. Went to base of ice wall; had no fixed rope; left above ice wall looked straightforward. Snowed every day. 


  St. Onge - 4 Nov 79

  St. Onge got altitude sickness, waited a week, didn't get better enough to be able join climb and left expedition 27th Oct. Other 3 climbing still. Hard part overcame and "just matter of time" till they'd get to summit by second route.


  Stacy Standley - 29 Oct 79

  Yager, Miller and Standley came to KTM yesterday, left expedition 25 Oct. Other 4 trying alpine-style attempt via 2nd route. Had high camp at 14,500-15,000 ft on east side of SW Ridge (made camp on 22 or 23 Oct) and 4 were at this camp on 25th and Sherpas moving gear over to support ridge attempt. Trying to do camp to summit and back in 10 days - top 3-4 Nov. If they were out the icefall problem, it might go.

  BC hit by avalanche blast (ice cloud) but no very serious damage. On 23 Oct Standley and Miller left because ran out of time. Yager concerned about rafting.


expid: THAM79102
peakid: THAM
year: 1979
route1: N Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Shomi Suzuki
sponsor: Sangaku Doshikai Thamserku Expedition 1979
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley->Phuki Glacier (BC)
bcdate: 1979-04-02
smtdate: 1979-04-26
termdate: 1979-05-02
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to member AMS
campsites: BC(02/04,3900m),C1(11/04,5000m),Biv1(23/04,5900m),Biv2(24/04,6100m),xxx(26/04,6300m)
routememo:
  Dr. Sakono - 8 May 79

  Okada altitude sickness but now OK - is at SYB [Shyangboche] with expedition baggage. Okano team climbed 6300m on 26th April, but Okada ill at 6100m biv so expedition cannot go to top. All members started down to BC 27th April. No fixed ropes above 5700m, so all members had to help him down.

  Had used 1500m fixed rope already and had none left. Needed about 1000m more to fix rope to summit. No C2 - climbed Alpine style above C1 and biv at 5700m. Fixed rope above 5600 (removing it from lower and at 5900m 23 April, 6100m 24-25 April and 26 April. Reached 6300m on 26th but no biv. All reached 5900m biv on 27th and to 5000 C1 on 28th and 29th BC.

  At BC recieved message re-Kangtega all except Okado and Sherpa and LO to SYB 30 April for helicopter (which actually had evacuated Kangtega on 28th). 30th evening learned helicopter evacuation taken place and 1 May returned to BC and discussed whether to climb again but have no time: only 20 days food and fuel plus one member ill.

  N Face route very difficult: above C1 very steep and no campsites. Face about 1600m high - face is possible to climb: 6300m high point is just at big serac = just below top of face - about 200m more to E Ridge. On 26th thought summit success sure, but then Okada became ill. No other illness, no accidents or frostbite.

  Hanging glacier safe? "Maybe so."

  Hindo and Takeuchi leave Nepal 8 May, Yuda 11 May, Suzuki with Yuda and also Masumaga.

  Okada and Okomo still in SYB so [don't] know departure. Sakano in KTM about 1 week more.


  Suzuki - 16 March 79

  12 March all members both expeditions in KTM 27 March all go to Lukla by air. Make 2 BC's 
  Thamserku - Sangaku Doshikai
  Route = N Face
  BC 4000m on Phuki glacier c31 March
  2 high camps - C2 6000m
  Summit all members after 3 weeks climbing; 1 Sherpa only BC 
  Very steep rock and ice mixed.


  From my [EAH] file:

  In spring 1979 expedition reached 6300m on 26 April (above 2nd biv made at 6100m on 24 April), then member Noboru Okada became seriously ill from altitude and all others had to take him down very steep face. Then at BC found note asking them to help evacuate injured man on Kangtega.


expid: ANN179301
peakid: ANN1
year: 1979
route1: N Face (Dutch Rib)
nation: USA
leaders: Robert A. (Bob) Wilson
sponsor: American Annapurna Expedition 1979
countries: UK
approach: Pokhara->Mristi Khola (BC)
bcdate: 1979-08-24
smtdate: 1979-09-25
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to fatal accident and deep snow
accidents: 3 members killed by avalanche
campsites:
  BC(24/08,4350m),C1(29/08,5000m),C2(03/09,5600m),C3(07/09,6150m),C4(18/09,6500m),C5(24/09,6800m),xxx(25/09,7100m)

routememo:
  After accident individual decisions whether to go on climbing - as leader left it to each to make personal decision. 

  Simonson and Cummings elected to continue. Went up 24th from C3 to C5 bypassing site C4 which unequipped and now considered dangerous. Arrived C5 5:00 pm and installed the camp. Same day other 3 went down from C3 and arrived BC. C3 now had no radio and little anyone there could do in support, most felt.
   
  Simonson: 25th set out in am but slowed by deep snow sometimes waist deep. Only 2 men breaking trail and without down clothes lost at C4 were cold. Covered feet night. Turned around at 1:00 pm at about 23,300 ft and returned to C3.

  Snow of storm had begun to consolidate but hadn't formed crust - storm from 17th afternoon to 21st. 22nd clear but avalanching all day and allowed consolidation. Later found a food can just above C2 and saw piece of down clothing a mile from C4.

  Wilson: Spent 1 hr probing and digging out C4 and found nothing. 5 ft of snow had accumulated on site and too unacceptably risky to go down into gully to search.

  Simonson: 6 men spent 4 nights at C4. 4 who left (Pat, Craig, Peter and Eric S) decided to go to C3 and rest lower in more comfortable C3.
   
  Wilson: makes more sense to eat lower-altitude food.

  Cummings: those who stayed C4 didn't want to bother descending - planned to come down next day if storm still on - C4 (Dutch Japanese and Anna Woman's C3) had safe history.

  Simonson: C4 may well hace been hit by blast and not avalanche debris - avalanche probably came from E Peak off to left.

  Wilson: "bad luck: 3 members in C4. Wrong place in right there for that avalanche - cause of failure - "any prudent mountaineer in same site would judge site of C4 to be a safe one".

  "No immediate plans to return to the mountain."

  The mountain that the members climbed was in many ways a difficult mountain from the one one had to deal with in sense of conditions on mountain, weather, problem and so on - different expeditions with different styles - ours was much lighter".

  Simonson: "we hit mountain with 3500 lbs of gear in comparison with the harder 12,000 lbs of equipment and food shipped from States - we had 3300 lbs - they used 34 porters - we used 85 - arrived at BC on same day - and we had camp 5 stocked 3 weeks earlier than they and we had done all this without any Sherpa support or any oxygen equipment. Our philosophy was, all members carrying all loads and moving ups very fast, spending minimum time at high altitude - feel confident that had we had one more week of good weather I think we'd have had some members on the summit."

  Leave Nepal tomorrow after 3 to US, Craig and to Darjeeling.

  "This mountain has objective danger on a larger scale than anything I have previously experienced" - avalanche all the time on Dutch Rib probably return, safe route - there probably is no really safe route on the mountain.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Ministry of Tourism - 3 Oct 79

  Message from LO

  Abandoned 26 Sept because of bad weather and tragic death of 3 members.
  Cummings and Simonson reached 23,000 feet on 25 Sept.
  All in BC and well - returning to KTM.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma - 29 Sept 79

  Message from leader dated 25 Sept 79 at BC:

  Expedition was enjoying excellent mountain conditions as evidenced by fact that small 8 members team had partially stocked C5 at 22,600 feet on the glacier above the Dutch Rib by Sept 17.

  On evening of that date with potentially only one more camp to be established before summit bids would be possible, the group was struck a major 5-day storm that brought large accumalations of snow, stopping all progress.

  On the first full day of storm conditions Sept 18, 7 members were confined to tents at C4 at 21,300 feet located at the top of the Dutch Rib, a knife-edge ridge just below the upper glacier plateau. This camp had been used with apparent safety by several previous expeditions.

  At 9:30 am on Sept 19, 4 of 7 members at C4 descended in severe conditions to C3 20,200 feet to wait out the remainder of the storm. This camp had been specially prepared and stocked for this purpose. Despite strong urging from the others, 3 members elected to remain in C4 for another day to see if the weather might clear so as not to lose the altitude gained to that point.

  At approx. 10:30 am, the wind blast from a very large avalanche was felt at the very protected C3 just as the 4 members from C4 reached C3, resulting in damage to tents, etc.

  When the scheduled noon radio contact with C4 was attempted with no results, concern for the safety of the remaining 3 occupants of C4 mounted.

  The storm worsened, making it physically impossible to ascend to C4 to assess its conditions.

  4 days passed with no radio contact, on Sept 23 the storm abated and with reduced avalanche danger, following same snow consolidation, members ascended at the first possible opportunity to C4. They found the entire camp to have been swept away without trace by avalanche.

  It is speculated this was the same large avalanche felt so strongly in C3. The camp site was probed and dug out for any trace of C4, but nothing was found. No trace of the 3 occupants was located.

  The members of the expedition who perished are:
  1) Maynard Cohick
  2) Gil Harder
  3) Eric Roberts

  The expedition continues in the honor and memory of our friends who have lost their lives on Annapurna.

  C5 officially established at 22,600 ft on 24 Sept on upper North Annapurna Glacier by Peter Cummings and Eric Simonson who expected to try for summit within 2 days [of 25 Sept].


  From LO:

  All members were in BC except Cummings and Simonson who were in C5 - those in BC returned to C4.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma - 28 Sept 79

  Maynard Cohick, Gil Harder and Eric Roberts dead.

  C4 established 18 Sept (no altitude). 19 Sept avalanche swept away these 3 men apparently at C4.


  Wilson - 4 Aug 79

  Leave KTM 10 Aug except man for LO.
  100 porters from Pokhara - 12 days to BC in usual site.
  At least 6 weeks to climb since, no HA Sherpas - possibly 2 months, which is maximum for which supplied.


  Wilson - 3 Aug 79

  Route on North - wanted go east to "middle peak" (between Annapurna East and main summit) but Tourism says its not on list - thence East Ridge to summit - may try change Ministry's view - will use Dutch route lower down.

  No oxygen at all, not even medical oxygen.
  No Sherpas above BC.


expid: LHOT79101
peakid: LHOT
year: 1979
route1: W Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Erich Vanis
sponsor: Austrian Lhotse Expedition 1979
ascent1: 5th,6th
countries: Switzerland
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1979-03-07
smtdate: 1979-05-04
smttime: 1700
campsites: BC(07/03,5400m),C1(04/04,6100m),C2(08/04,6500m),C3(21/04,7350m),C4(03/05,7850m),Smt(05,10/05)
routememo:
  Vanis - 28 May 79

  9 May - Vanis, lady member, 2 Sherpas and Schell [plus Goeschl] reached 250m below top and had to turn back from storm.


  Axt - 10 May 79

  At Kathmandu Guest House tonight and Lali Guras tomorrow. Must wait in KTM for baggage and then to Innsbuck.

  At top 5 pm, 1:30 am at C4, in moonlight, but strong wind.

  Axt: both feet all toes and part of foot and nose and little part of cheek
  water in eyes froze on eyelashes; -35 degrees.

  Ladrieter: nose also will be Ok; 2 fingers right hand may lose top joints; all fingers right had somewhat serious and left hand not so serious. Took off gloves to clear blowing fine snow into snow goggles during ascent and descent. Frostbite in night. Up very late because am bad weather report with strong wind and intended to go down but at 9:00 am decided instead to go up. Left C4 at 10:30 am after getting ready (including oxygen) after 2 nights at C4 without oxygen.

  Each man had 2 oxygen bottles and started using oxygen when started climbing. Left one used bottle each about halfway to top but not high enough. At bottom of very narrow colouir left 1st bottles at about 8100m at 12:30 pm. Then came worst part: climbing rock in couloir with crampons, the steep ice and 100-150m below top, "I almost couldn't go up - terrible sudden weakness and when reached summit realized had climbed without oxygen but with mask on." Ladreiter also finished his oxygen but at summit; at top at 5:00 pm.

  Now was very late, very cold and windy and we tried to get down as quickly as possible. Very hard to go up with oxygen and down without because possibility to freeze is very great and also possibility to fall. Going up was quicker then going down for us. Rock climbing was very difficult because in couloir no moonlight; rock climbing in couloir 50m out of 500m couloir. Could see almost nothing in this very narrow part.

  Arrived C4 at 1:30 am. Only one tent left out of 2 which other was destroyed in wind of 4/5 May. No others in C4. Took 2 hours for Axt to take off crampans before getting into sleeping bag.

  6:00 am 6th told on walkie-talkie had reached top. Ladrieter went down at 9:00 am on fixed ropes all way to C2. Axt left at 11:30 am. Stayed C2 that night. Used oxygen from C3 to C4 but not high flow.

  Schindler came to KTM to help Axt and Ladrieter. Yesterday 6 tried to reach summit but in afternoon there was snow and wind and 200m below top they stopped  + Schell was carrying 1 empty oxygen bottle - they were: 

  Dawa Tenzing
  Pasang Temba
  Vanis
  Mrs Steinmann
  Schell
  Goeschl

  All 6 went back. Sherpas to C3 others C4. Goeschl and Schell to try again today perhaps without Klausbruckner and Schier.


  1 April 79 - evening
  Klausbruckner of Lhotse to Bobby Chettri from BC

  "We have now been three times in the fall and forced the way 3/5 up towards the Cwm"


  Klausbruckner -  12 March 79

  Re Everest: agreed by Tourism that at end of Lhotse and Yugoslavs' Everest climbing, Tourism will permit one party from each expedition to climb other's peak, but this not likely since both expeditions will put all effort into sending maximum number of our members atop own peaks - plus weather, weariness, long Everest route via West Ridge, etc etc.


  Vanis & Klausbruckner - 10 March 79

  West Face to Lhotse couloir (nearly to South Col); West Ridge would need more climbers and equipment so did not ask for it.

  Steinmann arrived KTM about 25-27 March
  Schell and Goeschl arrive KTM 30 March

  leave for Lukla on 12 March - BC about 22-23 March after acclimatization climbing around Pheriche.

  C3 = depot only; no sleeping there because of avalanche danger from Nuptse.
  4 tons baggage total.
  C5 at 7850-7900m will be highest camp.

  April to fix camps and build up supplies; first attempt in early May; hope all members except probably doctor to summit.
  .
  16 Sherpas above BC including Dawa Tenzing who is sirdar.

  Oxygen for climbing for most members, if not all, above C5.

  Lali Guras on return.


expid: MANA79101
peakid: MANA
year: 1979
route1: E Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Lorenzo Massarotto
sponsor: Expedition to Manaslu from the Italian Alpine Club's Cittadela
bcdate: 1979-04-01
smtdate: 1979-05-01
termdate: 1979-05-17
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to avalanching
campsites: BC(01/04,3870m),C1(07/04,4820m),C2(15/04,5700m),C3(25/04,6700m),C4(05/05,7200m),xxx(01/05,7500m)
routememo:
  Massarotto - 3 June 79

  15 May stopped climbing in C3. 5 days in C3, no good weather with 3 avalanches. C3 and C4 taken away by avalanche 16 May. Highest point 7500m 1 May.

  45 days of expedition, only 15 days good weather.

  Route = East Ridge: very difficult and much snow avalanching at night; route is possible.


  De Savorgnani - 8 May 79

  De Savorgnani and Terrin arrive today by army helicopter from BC. Little avalanche hit 2 members sleeping in C4 and we think not dangerous for avalanche, but this night snow fell and almost vertical spot where made place for 1 tent with only 2 men.

  5 May these 2 men and 2 Sherpas made C4 at 7200m. Sherpas went down and could not find way to C3 because cloud and strong wind. Spent night out same night but they Ok.

  Frostbite all fingers; toes only little frostbite but fingers all black.

  East Ridge route - leader: would have reached summit if no avalanche. Today 5 men (all except Dr) woule be on summit.

  All now in BC, shaken but will go up. Summit after 1 week. No more camps and no oxygen at all. Avalanche hit at 8:00 pm while preparing to sleep; tent destroyed by their escaping.

  Want to go to Innsbruck quickly for best treatment.


  Massaroto & De Savorgnani - 7 March 79

  Same route as 1977 autumn French. 6 members, all in KTM. Leave KTM after cargo arrives, perhaps after one week.

  BC at about 5000m or more, above French BC.

  French C1 at 5600m destroyed by avalanche, so C1 also higher at 6000m. From there must climb quickly to ridge at 6200m and C2 above this; where will decide only when on the spot. Above there, if weather is good, only bivouacs above C2 climbing problem technically at pinnacle at 7895m. Must turn pinnacle quickly, then 1 km of route to summit which is at very high altitude. 
  From BC to summit no more than 4 weeks; problem is acclimatization.
  4 Sherpas above BC incl sirdar Ang Dorje (Everest 1978 autumn without oxygen).
  No oxygen for climbing or sleeping if possible; only 6 bottles with expedition.


expid: DHA179101
peakid: DHA1
year: 1979
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Gregorio Ariz Martinez
sponsor: Navarra en Himalaya 1979
ascent1: 10th
approach: Pokhara->Beni->Myagdi Khola (BC)
bcdate: 1979-04-08
smtdate: 1979-05-12
smttime: 1400
termdate: 1979-05-21
campsites:
  BC(08/04,4700m),C1(13/04,5160m),C2(15/04,5750m),C3(20/04,6600m),C4(03/05,7200m),C5(09/05,7600m),Smt(12/05)

routememo:
  Pons - 18 May 79

  Started for summit 3:00 am on May 12; returned 5:00 pm in C5; on top at 2:00 pm 5 men together on NE Ridge.

  Wind some what strong and very cold; one man slight frostbite.
  No accident, no illness

  Only 1 team to summit. 2nd team 4 more members ready, but next day very bad weather. 1st team waited 2 nights for wind to abate before going to top without oxygen that day; used very little 2 nights before attempt, none afterwards.

  5 to summit on 12 May: Aldaya, Garayoa, Plaza, Pons and Ang Rita Sherpa
  All members well; all in BC who not already in KTM.


  Massons - 13 May 79

  Juan Massons and Garreta, left BC 4 May and arrive KTM today.
  C3 - 6600m
  C4 - 3 May - 7180m
  On NE Ridge - Spain

  Said Saudan could come after Spaniards, Spaniards making route and French right along behind 1 hour later - for summit, French can come only 1/2 hour later, really together.

  Lot of snow on top of mountain 5 May. Garreta and Bromana leave KTM soon as possible Massons and Colomer maybe 24 May or before rest of members leave Nepal 31 May.

  After 3-4 persons in 1 party go to top 10-15 May


  Telexes from Spanish Dhaulagiri to Spain:

  C3 established at 6630m on 20 April; Dhaulagiri is very difficult; wind tore tents; -25 degrees.

  C4 established at 718 m on 2 May after 12 hours intensive work installing the camp; great with cold and wind. Intend to attack summit 10-15 May. Health and morale of all are good.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Ministry of Tourism - 19 April 79

  HMG has sent letters Spain and Swiss leaders and LO's. 

  Saudan must climb up only NW Ridge or NE Face but not NE Ridge which is for Spanish only; otherwise will take action against Saudan and his team.


  Pons - 18 March 79

  20 March - 1 Sherpa and 2 members to Bhairava
  21 March - all others to Pokhara
  24 March - all leave Pokhara
  8  April - arrive 1st difficult point of glacier
  12 April - arrive BC at 4700m 
  24 April - C1 and C2 established
  3  May   - C3 and C4 established
  5-12 May - C5 (at about 7600m) and summit attack

  15 May    - latest date for summit
  15-20 May - back to BC
  22 May    - leave BC
  3-4 June  - latest date of arrival KTM

  18 members - Massons and Garreta arrive KTM 23 March
  1 sirdar   - Sonam Girme
  4 HA Sherpas
  2 kitchen
  2 mailrunners
  6 high porters (local)
  300 coolies from Pokhara - 7500 kg baggage
  12 oxygen only medical and perhaps sleeping in highest camp

  Spaniards have climbed following 8000m peaks:
    Annapurna East
    Manaslu
    Makalu
    (Kangchenjunga Central Smt)


  Pons - 15 March 79

  Approach via Myagdi Khola to BC at 4700m up Glacier at top of it; NE Ridge route on mountain. Not going via Kali Gandaki because Dhampus Pass too full of snow (maybe return via Kali Gandaki).


expid: NUMB79101
peakid: NUMB
year: 1979
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Jacques Bovier
sponsor: Joint Nepal-Swiss Numbur Expedition
countries: Nepal, New Zealand
approach: Paphlu->Numbur (BC)
bcdate: 1979-05-04
smtdate: 1979-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to difficult crevasse and lateness in the day
campsites: BC(04/05,4850m),ABC(06/05,5150m),C1(10/05,5700m),C2(15/05,6250m),xxx(21/05,6700m)
routememo:
  Molinari - 5 June 79

  Route = SW Ridge

  6700m reached on 21 May. Started at 6:00 am from C2. Route then difficult with crevasse which took 3 hours for Braschler and Scheibler to cross. After 7-1/2 hours were at 6700m and all decided they should return and not risk not returning to C2 after dark. Next team was already in C2 and when Braschler and Scheibler found it occupied (C2 had room for only 2 people), went down to try to reach C1 but not radio contact all night with C1. Actually spent night above C1 out in icefall. 

  2 days later, on 24 May, Jacques, Lama and Paul Reymond reached 6600m after 6 hours and then turned back by winds.

  By this time, Swiss members had to go back to work. 1 to 1-1/2 more weeks would have reached top with 1 more camp or biv. Technically most difficult was part icewall between C1 and C2 and this surpassed.

  Difficult to believe Japanese reached top from C2 in 5-1/2 hours. Japanese took 6 days for ice wall whereas Swiss did it in 3 days.

  Lot of stone - icefall just below C1. No serious accidents, frostbite or illness


  Adrian Gray, Phaplu - 30 April 79

  Numbur expedition, departs today except myself and 2 Nepali members, one of whom has yet to arrive from KTM with the rope. I will leave on Wednesday (2 May).


  Molinari - 26 Feb 79

  Must go to Phaplu 26-8 April. Litscher in advance from PHA to base.

  Established BC by 5 May at 5400m which is where Japanese in 1963 had C4:
  2 camps above BC

  C1 on SW Ridge 5900m
  C2 = biv for summit but - at 6400m on same ridge

  Route from BC to ridge is icefall which may be difficult. May go behind a subsidiary ridge but don't know exact route. Ridge between C1 and C2 may be blue ice requiring step making which slows climb but not technically difficult. Above C2 go onto South Face briefly and then knife-edge ridge: Japanese took 5 hours from their last camp at 6200-6300m to summit.

  C1 by  9 May
  C2 by 16 May

  Summit by 17 May: 1st bid - try to get as many as possible on top including Sherpas (2 Sherpas as H-A porters).

  4 oxygen only for emergencies, not mountain climbing or sleeping.


  Letter from BC

  We established BC on 4th May. Advanced BC on 6th at an altitude of 150m. C1 was then established on 10th on an altitude of 5100m. The furnishing of C1 took more time then expected and only tomorrow from Numbur only two will push the route to C2. We expect to establish C2. We expect to establish C2 on 16th May latest.


expid: FANG79101
peakid: FANG
year: 1979
route1: W Ridge from N
nation: Austria
leaders: Sepp Mayerl
sponsor: East-Tyrolean Himalaya Expedition of the Alpenraute Lienz, Tyrol
bcdate: 1979-04-02
smtdate: 1979-05-02
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to fatal accident
accidents: Obernosterer died (slipped and fell down the mountain)
campsites:
  BC(02/04,3440m),C1A(06/04,4750m),C1B(12/04,5370m),C2(17/04,5600m),C3(24/04,5850m),C4(27/04,5950m),C5(02/05,6600m),xxx

routememo:
  Josef Mayerl - 15 May 79

  W Ridge 2-1/2 km long, very steep (70 degrees) and very dangerous. C5 last camp: C4 starts last part up difficult ridge.

  Herbert Obernosterer fell while descending from C5 to C4, where no fixed rope (had put in total 3000m fixed rope above and below). He fell 2000m on north wall when one crampon caught on 2 May. 4 members made C5 and went down same day, 2 May, to C4 and Obernosterer fell 7:30 pm during their descent. Others were: Neumair, Girstmair and Gassler.

  3 May all members in C1 and decide finish expedition because "when one man dead, there is no success for expedition."

  4 May brought corpse to C1 where made grave. Expedition would have reached summit on 6 or 7 May if continued; no further problems.

  Gassler: Obernosterer descending on 2 May from C5 to C4 and came to part where was no fixed rope. He was tired and he fell, at first along ridge down which was climbing - about 10-15 meters he fell here, towards Neumair who was, ahead of him (Gassler behind Obernosterer). Neumair tried to catch him but only touched his arm before Obernosterer plunged down North Wall of the ridge.

  Others reached C4 on 2 May and C1 on 3 May. On 4 May went from C1 and brought body to C1 for burial.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 7 May 79

  Herbert Obernosterer of Lienz slipped and fell down about 2000m North Wall while going from C4 to C3 on 2 May according LO.

    Obernosterer, Herbert 
    Neumair, Hermann
    Girstmair, Siegfried
    Gassler, Oswald

  established C4 6500m, 2 May.

  Obernosterer not found as on 3 May and members presume him dead; intensive search going on and attempt to climb has been abandoned.


  Mayerl via Bernard - 23 March 79

  Vigin peak. Route via West Ridge but not decided whether from north or south; very steep ridge so very difficult. North side ice and snow and on south unstable rock.

  Ganturer expedition not considered to have been on Fang. Wanted to climb via South Ridge but did not get far.

  Leave KTM 24 or 25 March, probably all together - perhaps 2 or 3 stay in KTM few days to get permit for Galeti Khola as well as Mristi Khola which will already have.
   
  If BC in Mristi Khola - 12 days at BC; in Galeti Khola 7-8 days - 110 porters ex-Pokhara.

  6-8 weeks to climb, so summit last half May will go onto ridge near point 18,605 ft (5670m)  because closer to Fang is hanging glacier which can avalanche on north side. Will also get onto ridge near point 18,605 even if climb from south side.

  About 4 high camps with C2 the first on the West Ridge. 
  About 4 km from point 18,605 to Fang summit
  5 HA Sherpas including sirdar Ang Chopal 
  No oxygen for climbing or sleeping, 3-5 bottles for medical only.


expid: DHA179102
peakid: DHA1
year: 1979
route1: NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Sylvain Saudan
sponsor: Swiss-French Ski Expedition to Dhaulagiri I
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 1979-04-11
smtdate: 1979-05-10
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to fatal accident
campsites: BC(11/04,4700m),C1(5150m),C2(5750m),C3(6620m),C4(7400m),C5(10/05,7600m),xxx(10/05,7600m)
routememo:
  (Altitudes given by Spaniards.)

  Austin, French Charge - 26 Aug 79

  Account given by expedition in Kathmandu was not correct. What actually happened was doctor (Sabarly), inexperienced in such mountaineering and on drugs, died first. Pemba Sherpa died trying to rescue him. Professional guide (Poumailloux) died of exhaustion bringing Saudan's girl-friend Valencot down.


  21 May 79

  Saudan, Valencot and Ollagnier left Nepal 21 May; Valencot's frostbite especially bad and danger of infection here great.

  According to Miss Spaha, they had no food for 3 days. 2 members are still on the mountain at 5000m. LO has kept expedition film at Jomsom, refusing to release it to expedition.


  Austin, French Embassy - 19 May 79

  Group of 6 climbers from Dhaulagiri expedition reached 7600m NE Ridge on 12th May and preparing for find assault when taken by very bad weather about 250 km/hr and very heavy snowstorms so they were blocked in camp.

  During night of 13/14 May about 00:30 hrs, avalanche took away 2 tents from highest camp and 2 climbers. Poumailloux (Mt Guide) and Dr Sabarly, were swept down from 7600m at least 2000m straight down.

  Early hours of am 14th May the four left who had taken shelter under rock, started descending by fixed ropes left by Spaniards. At 11:00 am 14th May another snowstorm with very high wind and Pemba disappeared: apparently died of fall due to exhaustion - was last man in descent and don't know exactly but ice ax left standing in snow at about 7300-7500m at very difficult part of route from C5. Saudan, Ollagnier, Ms Valencot (all French) took 4 days to BC. Sherpas from BC to help them after Ollagnier reached BC alone but fingers frostbitten BC alone. Saudan and Ms Valencot all fingers frostbitten could not tie ropes and they waited 5760m. Saudan and Ms Valencot are suffering from very deep frostbite fingers, feet and noses. Admitted to Santa Bhawan and took 1 week to know how much they say they were in perfect condition and if no sudden change in weather would have all 6 would have reached summit and Saudan skied down.

  Ms Valencot cannot speak much because exhausted and frostbite in nose and mouth area and all toes and fingers. Saudan did not realize his feet frostbitten: one is badly frozen.

  Saudan lucky to survive because of loss of overboot, etc.


expid: MAKA96401
peakid: MAKA
year: 1996
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Manuel Gonzalez Diaz
sponsor: Andalusian Expedition to Makalu
bcdate: 1997-01-07
smtdate: 1997-01-29
termdate: 1997-02-14
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to high wind
campsites: BC(07/01,5400m),ABC(13/01,6000m),C1(28/01,6600m),xxx(29/01,7200m)
accidents: Becerra injured when wind blew him off his footing and fell 70m
agency: Himalayan Culture Treks
routememo:
  BC  just above junctions of glacier
  ABC on glacier east of dividing rock
  C1  below Makalu La.

  Reached high point of 7200m three times, but impossible to reach Makalu La because of wind. C1 twice blown away - once a tent with three people in C1 moved 20 cm sideways by wind. Every day windy with gusts over 100 km/hr - 45 days of wind. On 6 Feb decided to abandon attempt to climb Makalu and on 8 Feb were intending to scale Makalu II. No problem of snow on mountain, but below 5000m deep snow prevented moving below BC.


expid: PUMO96401
peakid: PUMO
year: 1996
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
route2: S Pillar up; E Ridge-SE Face down
nation: France
leaders: Christophe Profit
sponsor: Zoe Pumori Expedition
ascent1: 116
ascent2: 117
bcdate: 1996-11-26
smtdate: 1996-12-01
smttime: 1500
termdate: 1996-12-14
campsites: BC(26/11,3300m),Biv1(08/12,6300m),Biv2(09/12,6500m),Biv3(10/12,6900m),Smt(01,11/12)
accidents: Nothing serious, but Blanchard did not recover from respiratory ailment
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  BC   at foot of Kalapattar's ridge at small lake
  Biv1 on South Pillar
  Biv2 on South Pillar
  Biv3 on South Pillar.

  First for acclimatization went on 1 Dec at 1:00 am 5 members [not Baugey] left BC to go to East Col and at Col via normal route on southeast side at 8:30 am; C1 at Col; Besson, Rhem and Ruby decided to go down (tired) while Blanchard and Profit went to top at 3:00 pm and back to BC at 11:00 pm. 

  Then to French route on South Face: left BC 8 Dec at 4:00 am by five (not Blanchard) but Ruby found route too hard and gave up at bergschrund, so did little real climbing. Other 4 biv at 6300m just at bottom of 2nd steep; biv 2 next day (9th) at 6500m also on French Pillar at bottom of 3rd step. 10th went to ice pully on right of pillar because "nice route" with ice climbing where no ridge had ice flutes and not so safe and then returned to pillar route top of 3rd step at 6900m. 4th step above was only 50m high and was climbed on 11th on way to summit. 4 members returned to BC 5:00 pm. Most difficult parts: 1st day of snow in gully and ice flutes obstructing it; 2nd day's 2nd step's vertical rock "was very nice adventure" without any recce climb: "we climbed as we think" when were on face and "we respect most important thing: the engagement with the mountain." Descended from summit via 1st Dec route, to Col and down southeast side, normal route. Expectation of descending normal route was another reason to have climbed it on 1st Dec. Did not descend pillar because had not fixed any rope on it.


expid: ANN196401
peakid: ANN1
year: 1996
route1: NE Buttress (to 6100m)
route2: N Face (Dutch Rib) (to 6850m)
nation: S Korea
leaders: Um Hong-Gil
sponsor: Korean Winter Annapurna I Expedition
approach: Pokhara->BC by helicopter
bcdate: 1996-11-13
smtdate: 1996-12-17
termdate: 1996-12-21
termnote: Abandoned on 18 Dec due to avalanching and dangerous serac
campsites: BC(13/11,4300m),ABC(06/12,5000m),C1(08/12,5400m),C2(17/12,6850m),xxx(17/12,6850m)
accidents: Ngati's leg injured by avalanche
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at normal site
  C2 at top of Dutch Rib at normal C3 site
  High point at C2.

  Carried all loads to ABC over 4 days and no one stayed at BC except liaison officer and cook. In climbs found too many crevasses at start of normal route; tried to climb NE Buttress and gained 200m on steep ice face on 9 Dec to 6100m and then big ice-rock-snow avalanche hit (one snow hit Ngati) so abandoned this line (Kim In-Hyem, Um, Ngati, Kami and Sarki Sherpa reached this point). 

  So tried N Face (Dutch Rib) (many avalanches coming down left and right side and sometimes hit climbers before Rib); reached C2 (normal C3) but not above it because many avalanches some of which came from big serac just above C2: serac was "in very bad condition." Rib also bad condition with rock and ice mixed with no snow; now abandoned climb.


expid: AMAD96401
peakid: AMAD
year: 1996
route1: SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Park Young-Seok
sponsor: Kyung Pook National University 1996 Winter Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 207,208
bcdate: 1996-11-27
smtdate: 1996-12-06
campsites: BC(27/11,4600m),C1(02/12,5900m),C2(04/12,6300m),C3(05/12,6500m),Smt(06-07/12)
accidents: 6 members got some altitude sickness; nothing serious
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  Sherpas had taken out all fixed ropes, so Park had to fix entire route from C1 to C3. Only 7 summiters because students not in Himalaya before and not "strong."

  Expedition had 2 permits with senior man as leader of each; everyone climbed together, shared same food and tents. Park was climbing leader of whole group and organizer of it.


expid: ANN179102
peakid: ANN1
year: 1979
route1: N Face
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Louis Georges
sponsor: Annapurna Premier 8000 a Ski
ascent1: 6th
approach: Pokhara->Mristi Khola
bcdate: 1979-03-27
smtdate: 1979-04-30
smttime: 1700
termdate: 1979-05-04
accidents: Morin died from exhaustion (sudden heart compression) while skiing down
campsites:
  BC(27/03,4200m),C1(30/03,4900m),C2(06/04,5700m),C3(17/04,6200m),C4(26/04,6900m),C5(28/04,7300m),C6(29/04,7600m),Smt(30/04)

routememo:
  Morin died 1 May at fixed rope 6600m; avalanche hit Berquet and Germain 18 Apr [also Dawa Gyalzen and Chowang Rinzee]; local porter killed returning from BC to ferry another load to BC from dump.


  Dr Muller-Esterl, German Annapurna Ski Expedition - 17 March 80

  French skier Morin probably died instantly from sudden compression of his heart, which stopped when severely compressed. One can live for 5 minutes without oxygen but not when heart suddenly stops.


  Germain - 8 May 79

  Accident 1st May.

  30 April - Germain, Morin and Sigayret went up and Germain stopped 30m below top to take photos; it was late and windy. Morin and Sigayret on top at 16:30 hours. Morin immediately began skiing down from summit to C6.

  1 May on skis from C6 Morin (1st), Sigayret, Germain, Berquet and Renard on skis to C3. At 6600m Morin was stopped too fast by rope around his chest clipped into traversing fixed rope across icefall (at the cycle) and could not breathe - called for help. Germain tried to ease tension but Morin dead in 5 minutes after he called, probably heart stopped. Morin in difficult zone alone because in such an area one moves alone

  Berquet and Germain took body top at foot of serac to small crevasse and put body in crevasse - too dangerous to take to BC. Berquet and Germain had already been hit by avalanche.

  To C3 on 1 May on foot: expedition had done this section: Georges skied down from C4 to C1 and below about 27 April.

  2 May no more skiing down as had done this section before, earlier in expedition. Morin only man to have skied all sections.

  Morin died at about 6600m but had skied from C4 to C3 after having made route to C4 including putting in fixed rope traverese where he died. So one can say Morin skied down Annapurna I. Would have gone all the way down on 1 May if not killed.

  No Sherpas above C2 after avalanche. Sirdar Dawa [Gyalzen] hit on nose by ice block and nose broken and other Sherpa's knee twisted.
   
  French on French route and Japanese on Dutch route - good relations. Japanese 5 May must make summit attempt, but much wind way have stopped them from or in attempt.

  Today helicopter may bring 3 members and another helicopter after 1 or 2 days. 5 go to France quickly together and Germain waits few more days for baggage via helicopter to Pokhara.


  M. Cheney - 3 April 79

  Hope to come to KTM in 1st week of May by helicopter. Have asked French embassy to arrange helicopter.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma - 2 April 79

  French Annapurna I local porter killed when he slipped in snow at 15,000 ft while returning from BC on 27 March.


  Renard - 10 March 79

  Annapurna Premier 8000 a Ski. All now in KTM. Leave KTM 13 or 14 March to Pokhara by road. Leave Pokhara 14 or 15 march  Pokhara with about 100 porters taking perhaps. 4 weeks to BC.

  BC at usual site about 4500m with 5 camps above BC but C1 and C3 maybe transit and C5 very light more like biv. C5 in place 3 weeks after BC.

  Six members likely to go to summit. Doctor less likely to highest peak so for from which skiing has been done is Nashaq in Hindu Kush in Afghanistan (7500m) by Austrians last summer.


expid: PK2979101
peakid: PK29
year: 1979
route1: W Spur
nation: Poland
leaders: Ryszard Szafirski
sponsor: Polish Himalaya Exped Peak 29 (Klub Wysokogorski of Zakopane)
ascent1: 1st confirmed
bcdate: 1979-04-06
smtdate: 1979-05-08
smttime: 1527
campsites: BC(06/04,4000m),ABC(13/04,4500m),C1(15/04,5700m),C2(21/04,6300m),C3(26/04,7200m),Smt(08/05)
routememo:
  Szafirski & Dr Koriszuski - 22 May 79

  1st part of route same as Nairz and Manaslu Expedition to about 5600m very difficult (5 grade) and artificial climbing. At 5600m Poles had C1. 2000 ft of rocky buttress to C1. This only safe way then to ridges which is perhaps properly called W Spur. 5 peaks - Poles had trouble deciding which highest. If Wanatabe and Sherpa in 1970 reached highest, it is edge of human possibility. Very difficult rock from E at high altitude. Japanese highest camp 7200m and similar climbing.

  Poles' attack for C3 at 5 am amd returned from sumit 7:30 pm - young, very strong men. On top 3:27 pm. They had to put some fixed ropes on route above C3 (others had also done same too earlier) - was Pawlikowski and Gajewski on 8th. No 2nd attack is possible because Berbeka had same frostbite (is healing).

  When reached C3 so tired unable to go further in dark thru seracs, so Szafirski and Malinowski went down to C2 and not in position to go to top. 2 members descended in full moonlight. 

  Put BC very low and needed ABC because porters struck and no Sherpas to ferry loads; members ferried.


  Szafirski - 25 March 79

  Route = W Face - middle of face, not so far south as Japanese in 1974, but first will do recce to see whether more northern approach is easier. Middle of face gives only narrow area of safe route for rest of face menaced by seracs.

  Leave after 2 days by road to pokhara and from Pokhara up Marshyangdi with 50-60 porters (1400 kg) to BC in 10 days on Tulagi Glacier (where Austrian Manaslu had their BC) at about 4500m. Then about 3000m of West Wall with one camp after first difficult rock and ice part of route at about 6000m: fixed one safe place for a camp where can stay 1 to even 3 weeks if necessary. From this camp, maybe one or two bivs to summit. Summit 10-15th May. Classic Himalayan method impossible for this wall.

  No Sherpas above BC. 
  No oxygen for climbing or sleeping, in fact none for medical.


expid: JANU79101
peakid: JANU
year: 1979
route1: W Ridge
nation: Czechoslovakia
leaders: Ivan Galfy
sponsor: Czechoslovak Himalaya Expedition 1979
approach: Dharan->Taplejung
bcdate: 1979-04-19
smtdate: 1979-05-16
termnote: Abandoned at 7450m due to lack of food
campsites:
  BC(19/04,4400m),C1(20/04,4800m),C2(23/04,5300m),C3(03/05,5800m),C4(10/05,6400m),C5(14/05,7000m),xxx(16/05,7450m)

routememo:
  Galfy & Chudy

  route= West Ridge to NW Ridge

  1st summit attempt by 4 members on 16 May and reached 7450m on face to right of West Ridge. Reached this at 2:00 pm and above 120m hard rock climbing at Grade V A.

  2nd and 3rd attempts followed but also unsuccessful: 2nd because 1 member frostbitten and 3rd because very cold and strong wind. Then abandoned climbing because no more food.

  No accidents or serious frostbite. Only serious illness was kitchen boy Sherpa who died of TB and pneumonia.


  Galfy & Chudy 30 March 79

  route = West (NW) Ridge = new route

  BC on Yamatari Glacier at 4400-4500m
  10 days to BC ex-Dharan with 125 porters. Leave Bhairawa to Taplejung 3 April and established BC about 10 April. At least 5 high camps.

  Most difficult to reach pass at 6000-6200m - mixed rock and ice.
  Summit "should be" mid-May.

  3 Sherpas above BC including sirdar Ang Temba (same as on Makalu).
  No oxygen for climbing or sleeping.

accidents:
  No accidents or serious frostbite; only serious illness was kitchen boy Sherpa who died of TB & pneumonia


expid: ANNS79101
peakid: ANNS
year: 1979
route1: W Face
route2: N Face (to 6500m+)
nation: Poland
leaders: Jerzy Pietkiewicz
sponsor: Addenda to Annapurna South
ascent1: 6th
approach: Pokhara->Modi Khola->Chomro
bcdate: 1979-04-08
smtdate: 1979-05-01
smttime: 1415
termdate: 1979-05-13
campsites: BC(08/04,3700m),Biv1(28/04,6000m),Biv2(29/04,6400m),Biv3(30/04,6700m),Smt(01/05)
routememo:
  Marian Piekutowski, Climbing Leader - 22 May 79

  Route = West Face - 1st attempt via this route - went around to north side of SW Ridge (in KTM learned SW Ridge already done by Japanese).

  From BC to bottom of West Face ordinarily 2 days.

  BC at 3700m. Under West Face had 2 sites where one tent pitched at each place. West Face looked very difficult and seemed wise to come down easy NE Face and in acclimatization period went to look at NE Face for descent route. Piekutowski, Koniak and Wielicki in April while other 3 of 1st group went to see West Face route up.

  Koniak accident 15 April happened when at 30m below 6000m looking from southeast side of Annapurna South. Fell on 6m steep wall of loose strata. Went 8m and struck base of skull on rock and dead immediately. Not possible to take body down. Tied in plastic sheet to pitons under overhanging rock - this was all 2 men could do. These 2 men had no food now in accident and for 3 days had no food until they reached Chomro village.

  Leader, when learned of accident, decided to go to KTM to embassy with Ryznar who was brother-in-law of Koniak (married sisters). These 2 left BC 21 April.

  23-24 April climbing leader organizer summit attack by 4:
    Czyzewski
    Smieszko
    Wielicki
    Piekutowski

  Plus Dr. Balucinski to help carry loads but on way, under West Face, in one day, Piekutowski felt pain (appendicitis requiring surgery eventually and meanwhile Dr gave injections and in 5 days no pain) at about 5200m, first place after BC. Dr and Piekutowski returned to BC.

  Piekutowski expected descent via NE Face so planned to send 3 men to carry light supplies around to area near Koniak, but before B left leader and Ryznar returned to BC from KTM.

  Leader decided 4 people would go under NE Face:
    Pietkiewicz (leader)
    Ryznar
    Pietrowicz 
    Woznica

  To South Face BC area and reached there 1 May. That day they participated in rescue of Japanese on Hiunchuli (trekking peak). 2 May leader decided all except Woznica would go up to Koniak body and perform funeral.

  Woznica to leave 3 May to return to BC. 

  3 left NE Face to go to Koniak but at late in afternoon. Pietrowicz had pain in legs and had to go back and on 3 May to BC.

  1 May heard by walkie-talkie that Smieszko and Wielicki reached top 2:15 pm. 3rd man, Czyzewski stayed 300m below top with altitude sickness. Necessary to descent West Face because of his illness. Those in BC ordered to go top help carry sick man except Piewtowski also sent men to these under NE Face to tell them to return to BC.

  (Ministry had refused permit to descend NE Face).

  Pietkiewicz and Ryznar had sent message they would return BC 13 May. Climbing leader thought this poor idea to split party since Ryznar not experienced.

  5 May evening 12 persons assembled in (returned to) BC: all except dead Koniak, Pietkiewicz and Ryznar, but most not in good health and needed rest for several days. 

  Piewtowski sent 3rd search party 10 May.

  Thinks now impossible they are alive. Last seen 4 May by Japanese Hiunchuli party. That afternoon in poor weather saw them going up [at 6500m], supposedly to Koniak body. It was Sherpas with Japanese that told this. Not seen again but tent with food not touched and runner's message still there with Japanese Sherpas.

  Max: 10 hours from Annapurna BC to Koniak body.

  Last seen by Poles 2 May. Woznica and Pietrowicz thinks 2 missing Poles had accident same place as Hiunchuli Japanese - couloir and avalanches and seracs area, or maybe they have bad acclimatization because of trip to KTM and because too weak to move from biv enroute to Koniak body.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism Ministry - 21 May 79

  Leader and 1 member missing since 28 April:
    Jerzy Pietkiewicz
    Julian Ryznar

  Report from climbing leader Marian Piekutowski and LO says 28 April leader decided to go place where body of Koniak lay because they were relations to stay same time and if possible bury it. Ryznar, Jerzy Woznica, Jerzy Pietrowicz went with him. LO and climbing leader understood they would go part way and be in support of summiters - left from BC.

  (1 May 2 men to summit)

  4 May Woznica and Pietrowicz returned to BC saying other 2 had camped Annapurna BC area and were going to site of body with small tent and food leaving big tent on Annapurna Glacier. Did not go in support of summiters.

  Summiters returned to BC 6 May with other, when 300m below top became ill of altitude Zibgniew Czyzewski and did not go to top. 

  3 returned with 3 others who had gone in actual support from BC on 5 May.

  10 May climbing leader send 3 members search party to rescue leader and Ryznar because of desire to leave mountain soonest. Reached Hinko Cave where met Japanese Annapurna I Sherpas and porters who said no tent of Poles and no Poles seen. Poles then turned back thinking leader and Ryznar may have gone to village. Returned to BC 12 May.

  13 May another search party went out. 13 May was day leader said would return to BC. Reached Japanese Annapurna ABC at 5600m. Japanese there had seen Poles except 1 Sherpa said tent on May 4 at BC area and 2 Poles climbing above BC but 6 or 7 May saw food in tent untouched search party left. 

  Climbing leaders fear 2 dead - all survivors arrive KTM Sat evening.


  Sharma, Ministry of Tourism - 25 April 79

  Josef Wladyslav

  Koniak died 15 April 12 noon.

  3 members including Koniak had gone up to 6000m to acclimatize between Annapurna South and Hiunchuli - Koniak fell while they descending from 6000m. 

  Marian Piekutowski, Krzysztof Wielicki and Koniak left BC 11 April for recce of North Face of Annapurna South which is on small shelf. Marian and Krzysztof went to Annapurna Glacier and through Machhapuchhare BC and reached BC 19 April about 11 am.


  Shrestha, Polish Embassy - 11 April 79

  Of 9 Annapurna South members who came overland, only 2 came to KTM and rest stayed in Pokhara. 2 arrived KTM 9 April in evening and left for Pokhara this morning.


  Piekiewicz & Piekutowski - 31 March 79

  Route = from west, exactly where not yet known. BC under West wall.

  6 now in KTM. Other 9 came by road but unknown where they are and where they arrive. 6 buying all equipment in KTM and leave Monday. By bus to Pokhara, leave Pokhara Wednesday. 15-20 porters to BC via Chamro and then around west side of SW Ridge. 

  BC at about 4000m under West Wall.

  No fixed camps above BC and no fixed ropes (unless perhaps just below, summit on South Face) - alpine-style climb.

  No Sherpas above BC and no oxygen for climbing or sleeping.

  Reach BC 10-15 April. 4-5 weeks to summit.


expid: EVER79101
peakid: EVER
year: 1979
route1: Lho La-W Ridge (up); N Face (Hornbein)-W Ridge (down)
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Tone Skarja
sponsor: Yugoslavs on Everest
ascent1: 32nd,33rd
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1979-03-28
smtdate: 1979-05-13
smttime: 1351
termdate: 1979-05-21
othersmts: Climbed Khumbutse (KHUM-791-01) by Franc Knez
accidents: Ang Phu Sherpa fell to death on descent
campsites:
  BC(28/03,5350m),C1(06/04,6050m),C2(14/04,6770m),C3(18/04,7170m),C4(27/04,7550m),C5(02/05,8100m),Smt(13,15/05)

routememo:
  Skarja - 7 May 2013

  A pulley was used to convey about 5000 kg of supplies 200m up onto the Lho La. It worked very well where they had it, but the Americans' effort was in an unfavorable place where the loads constantly swung against the rock face, which is why they stopped using it.


  Kunaver - 4 Sept 79

  Yugo Everest Expedition's route: From Lho La, went left onto north side of W Shoulder. At highest part of W Ridge, 1st summit team followed ridge all the way up to summit and down via Hornbein Couloir. 2nd team traversed slightly left onto face going up because Ang Phu would not have managed a difficult overhang; also down via Hornbein Couloir.

  Expedition had no indication of any HMG displeasure at their having been on North Face.


  Skarja - 25 May 79

  1st attempt for summit [Groselj and Manfreda] did not find right route and had oxygen problem; they were those who came to KTM with frostbite. 2nd group [Podbevsek and Robas] also had trouble finding correct route.

  Used Hornbein Couloir in descent because bad weather in afternoon including fog required use of easier route; also lack of fixed rope high on ridge.

  3 or 4 May were ready to make 1st attempt but very strong wind 150 km/hr and -40 degrees C temperature.


  Groselj & Manfreda - 18 May 79

  Groselj, Manfreda, Vavken arrived today by helicopter. Manfreda (3 fingers) and Groselj (5 toes) and doctor Ok; stay in KTM 2-3 days and in Delhi 2-3 days.

  Frostbite: 1st attempt ascent started from C5 on 10 May; wall very hard and Groselj had oxygen trouble. Manfreda had to go without oxygen because so difficult, could have no load. Put in fixed rope which was key to success 3 days later. 

  C5 established 9 May at 8100m. No C6 at all.

  13 May Zaplotnik and Stremfelj to summit from C5 and down via Hornbein Colouir because no fixed ropes above C4 at 9:30 pm. Left C5 going up at 5:30 am; summit at 1:51 pm; are Ok, no frostbite.

  15 May from C5 3 men at 5:00 am; on top about 2:20 pm and also down via colouir; biv that night at 8000m in colouir; stopped descent about 9:00 pm because of snowstorm and wind.

  16 May about 5 am again began descent. 3rd team for summit [Bergant, Kotnik and Matijevec] went to help this 2nd group; from C5 up and then down to Couloir and met at 6:00-7:00 am; summiters very tired but not frostbitten. Bozic and Belak reached C4 about 12 noon with 3 helpers. When 2 parties met, helpers went to shake hands in congrats, Ang Phu made a mis-step, fell 20m, lost ice axe, unable to stop himself and fell 2000m down Main Rongbuk Glacier from 8000m.

  17 May from C1 4 Sherpas and 3 Yugoslavia found body in pieces and Sherpas put pieces in crevasse. 7 men went to site together which is 1-1/2 km east of Lho La. Ang Phu's family at BC today saying Yugoslavia killed him. 

  1st summit team were actually 3rd planned to - on 11 May two members were 1st but got no where really. 


  Groselj & Manfreda - 18 May 79

  Ang Phu and 1 Yugoslav had just emerged from bottom of Hornbein's Couloir at about 8000m when met by helpers and he fell - other Yudoslav still in it.

  Yugoslavia followed AMME 1963 West Ridge route all the way from to C4 which was same place as US C4. 

  Groselj and Manfreda put in same fixed rope above C5, but not enough fixed rope above C5 for safe descent. Bad weather about 11 May was believed to be monsoon (actually was cyclone in Bay of Bengal) so expedition thought had no time to put in fixed rope. 


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 16 May 79

  Yesterday's 3 summiters could not reach C4 last night because of bad weather and made temporary camp.

  At 8:00 am today 2 Yugoslavs reached C4 but at 7600m, just above C4 and just few minutes before 8:00 am, Ang Phu slipped and was not found as of 12:30 pm; still searching for him. Expedition probably stopped climbing. 


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 13 May 79

  Zaplotnik and Stremfelj reached summit. Started at 5 am 13 May from C6 8700m and on top 13:15 hours. Coming down slowly but steadily as of 4:30 pm because of high wind.

  1st 2 groups failed to reach top: names and reasons not known. 4th group tomorrow. 


  AXT - 10 May 79

  Yesterday 5 men at C5 at about 8200m and hoped to try today for top from C5.
  West Ridge best: no Icefall and see both Nepal and Tibet are right on the West Ridge.

  Yugoslavs apparently first onto Lho La from Nepalese side.

  From Tibetan side:
  1921 - George Leigh Mallary and George Bullock recce
  1935 - Eric Shipton and LV Bryant; HW Tilman and EHL Wigram also recce


  Tone Skarja  - 20 Feb 79

  True West Ridge route

  BC usual site
  C1 on East Ridge of Khumbutse 6050m (last 300m much loads up)
  C2 on ridge of West Shoulder 6600m
  C3 top of West Shoulder 7200m
  C4 on Everest on West Ridge 7400m, 1-1/2 km from C3
  C5 high on West Ridge 8000m
  C6 West Ridge 8500m 
  Total route 10 km; about 5 km from where shoulder joins Everest proper. 

  Leave KTM 3 March
  Arrive Pheriche 25 March
  Arrive BC 31 March
  6 weeks to summit, top about 15-25 May

  Technically most difficult BC to C1; on West Shoulder new snow avalanching; again technical difficult C4 to C5
  25 climbers including doctors and 5 photographers and journalists
  20 Sherpas
  Use oxygen above C4.


expid: KJRS79301
peakid: KJRS
year: 1979
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Atsushi Inenaga
sponsor: Fukuoka Alpine Club Himalayan Expedition 1979
ascent1: 5th
approach: Jumla->Jagdula Khola (BC)
bcdate: 1979-10-13
smtdate: 1979-11-04
campsites:
  BC(13/10,4450m),ABC(15/10,4900m),ABC2(20/10,5000m),C1(21/10,5530m),C2(29/10,6200m),C3(02/11,6580m),Smt(04/11)

routememo:
  Okazaki - 26 Nov 79

  All members well and returned to KTM. Climbed South Main Peak (North Main Peak not on list and anyway not so distinct).

  Route = NW Ridge of South Main Peak from Col east of Point 20,600 on Tyson map. Col is very narrow so C2 above it on the ridge. C3 just before North Peak and traversed across in of North Peak's top to South Main Peak.

  BC was on Jagdula Khola - 1st expedition in this valley
  ABC on glacier - big icefall above ABC
  One member (Yada) some frostbite but not serious
  3 members to summit on expedition's last chance because weather getting worse and worse with strong cold winds.

  On day before summit success, on 3 Nov Matsunaga, Takasaki, Yada and Ang Temba made first summit attempt but strong winds and gave up after making only 3 pitches and Yada got finger frostbitten; returned to C3 and made successful attempt next day, Yada included.

  Approach route to BC very difficult - Jagdula Khola almost impossible gorge to follow (Isherwood followed it 1st time). First time any big party with porters went in there. Villagers didn't know route themselves. Japanese also first to follow Jagdula Khola by left fork (Isherwood took right fork) to their BC site.


  Okazaki - 22 Aug 79

  3 arrived 18th - leader and 2 more came on 1 Sept.
  Approach route same as Isherwood's up Jagdula Khola. 
  Really want to climb Hanging Glacier Peak; if must climb Kangiroba Main will climb NW Ridge from Col and Main Peak.
  Leave KTM about 15 Sept by air to Jumla in 2 charters by Otter (must take all food from KTM).
  4 Sherpas above BC including sirdar (not decided who).
  4 camps above BC with C4 about 6300m (BC at 4000m) on Kanjiroba Main Pk.
  Oxygen for medical only
  About 4 weeks BC to summit


  Okazaki - 4 Sept 79

  Ministry says must climb Kanjiroba Main Peak. Will try NW Ridge, but have permission to attempt other route if this one too dangerous.

  All remaining members arrived 1 Sept and hope to leave about 15 Sept.


expid: NILN79301
peakid: NILN
year: 1979
route1: SE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Kenzo Ishikawa
sponsor: Seppyo Alpine Club Nilgiri Expedition
approach: Pokhara->Kali Gandaki->Lete->Thulobugin La
bcdate: 1979-09-12
smtdate: 1979-09-29
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to route too dangerous and bad weather
campsites: BC(12/09,4150m),C1(18/09,4700m),C2(27/09,5700m),xxx(29/09,5900m)
routememo:
  Takeda - 17 Oct 79

  On SE Face Nilgiri North: Above C2 very dangerous glacier. Reached 5900m (highest point) 29 Sept by both members.

  Sherpas only carrying loads, not route making.
  C2 at bottom of very different glacier; icefall very broken and dangerous. 

  30 Sept decided not possible to go up this route; even with more members too dangerous.


  Takeda - 23 Aug 79

  Route = SE Face (new route)
  Approach from Lete to Thulobugin; to BC on glacier east of Nilgiri.

  Arrived KTM 21 Aug. Leave 27 Aug and begin caravan 29 Aug with 35-45 porters about 11 days to BC

  1 H-A Sherpa
  Oxygen medical only

  BC at 4200m; two camps above and maybe biv.
  C2, want it at 6000m but perhaps not possible that high.
  Summit 13-15 Oct (35 days climbing).


expid: MANA79301
peakid: MANA
year: 1979
route1: E Ridge
nation: Argentina
leaders: Guillermo Vieiro
sponsor: Fourth Argentine Expedition to the Himalaya to Manaslu
approach: Trisuli Bazer->Buri Gandaki->Samagaon
bcdate: 1979-09-02
smtdate: 1979-10-04
termnote: Abandoned at 6650m due to fatal accident and continuing bad weather
campsites: BC(02/09,4270m),C1(10/09,5400m),C2(30/09,5980m),C3(04/10,6550m),xxx(6550m)
accidents: Porcellana killed by avalanche [between C1 and C2]
routememo:
  Letter from Deputy Leader Hector Cuinas - Nov 79

  Base Camp was located at 4370m about 250m above a "kharka" (yak pasture field, where there are some sheperd's huts - this site has the base camp of the Japanese Expedition). It is an excellent place, without wind and with a good view of the whole valley. The only problem is that water may be scarce towards the end of October.

  From base camp we followed the course of a stream. Thereafter we but stone signals indicating the way to the glacier at the base of the East Ridge. From here we proceeded directly upwards to the foot of the rock pillar. We then climbed this pillar up to the point where it gets very vertical. From here we made a long traverse along a chain of shelters up to a point where it is necessary to descend about 5 metres and follow the snow couloir for about 60 metres. We then proceeded to the right side and continued bordering the rock (the name here given to this sector of the rock pillar is 'the boot') until we reached the upper part of the ridge. Following the ridge for one hour we reached a small col where we placed C2 at approx 5400m.

  From C1 we continued about the ridge up to the point where it gets wider (this place is extremely dangerous due to the snow plaque slides). It is better to descend towards the left and follow the border of the wall that faces Peak 29. From here the way up is easy until the ridge gets rocky and sharp. We climbed the southeast part of the ridge until we reached the top, and then continued along same for about 80 metres, up to the point where it becomes a tower. From there we fixed one rope that descended directly the east wall of the ridge and another that descended the West Face about 15 metres.

  We then continued traversing and slighly ascending for about 250 metres up to the point where the rock finished and slope is continued by a series of ice couloirs. From here we abseiled about 40 metres to reach the interiour plateau and then proceeded on easy ground up to C2 (a snow dome at the end of the ridge where it widens) at about 5980 metres.

  From C2 we proceed directly to the upper part of a big plateau starting point of the traverese leading to the East Ridge of Manaslu (6500m).


  Jasson & Cuinas - 13 Nov 79

  All differences amongst members after climbing abandoned. Mountain too big for leader who came for book and film. Climbing stopped because of bad weather. Best climbers from Argentina, but leader (Vieiro) didn't know what he was doing. 

  Bad weather = continuous snowfall - only 3 days of good weather till 8 Oct when accident occurred. C3 site at 6550m reached on about 4 Oct, tent dumped but never occupied.

  Accident = snow slab that moved only 40 meters on only 30-degree slope. Another such avalanche buried another member during clearance of mountain. Both happened in area where not at all to be expected and where had after passed safely and was 3 days after snowfall. First and fatal avalanche hit Cuinas and Porcellana, who both then fell over ice cliff another 40m. Cuinas Ok, but Porcellana's neck broken. Porcellana buried where he fell.

  2nd avalanche hit Castiarena about 18 (or 19) Oct at same altitude on other side of ridge and presumably safer place.

  East Ridge is really long route. Would not attempt it alpine-style as French tried. Didn't seem very difficult above C3 but couldn't see traverse nearly 8000m leading from Ridge to summit plateau. 

  Stopped climbing after accident. Didn't want to go on climbing after that. Too late also, and bad weather continued for 10 days. Might have gone on if chances of getting to summit seemed good.

  Rockfall caused 2 stitches on Vitalis head midway on rock buttress at 5100m. (But not frequent falls) can be avoided.

  No chance to go up ridge except by harder rock at 4900-5200m buttress, not by easy-looking and dangerous couloir.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma - 11 Oct 79

  Edgardo Jose Porcellana killed when hit by avalanche 8 Oct at 5500m; he was going to C2 from C1.

  C2 established 30 Sept at 5980m. 
  Expedition abandoned attempt because his death.


  Bruchhausen - 23 Sept 79

  Bruchhausen left BC Sunday 16th and weather turned for better. C2 should have been put at about 6100m next day and by now C3 at about 7000-7100m. Big problem was rock spur where 800m fixed rope was required. Vitale hit by falling rock which gave him 2-inch cut and kept him inactive 5 days. 

  Planning 4 camps. Ridge seems easy until pinnacle. Last camp just after pinnacle at about 7900m. If however require fixed ropes around pinnacle, then one camp below it at 7700m and one above near 8000m. In cloudy weather hadn't been able to get good look at this area.

  Bruchhausen has virus; he will see how he is after 1 week and then if much better, go back to expedition with next runner.


  Vieiro - 5 Aug 79

  Road to Trisuli Bazaar; about 700 tons with about 300 porters
  No HA Sherpas
  No oxygen (20 bottles for medical only)
  5 or 6 high camps - some fixed rope if necessary
  Route = East Ridge (same as 1977 French and 1979 Italian)
  Want put a C5 after East pinnacle so have good chance for summit

   1 doctor (will not go high at all)
  10 climbers
   1 journalist
   1 cinematographer
   1 BC mgr
  --
  14 members

  1-2 months climbing BC to summit. Will not risk all on alpine-style ascent. If things go smoothly, will climb in 5 weeks, but willing to wait out storms for 7 most total. "If we can't climb it in 5 weeks we shouldn't have come here."


  Bruchhausen - 13 Aug 79

  This is a very nationalistic expedition, thus they have given his residence as Buenos Aires when for past 11 years has lived in US.


expid: GAN379301
peakid: GAN3
year: 1979
route1: SE Ridge (to 6100m)
route2: N Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Takeo Ohmori
sponsor: Okayama University-Nepal Joint Expedition 1979 (Ganesh III)
ascent2: 1st-3rd
countries: Nepal
approach: Trisuli Bazar->Chilime Khola->Sangjung Glacier (BC)
bcdate: 1979-09-14
smtdate: 1979-10-19
smttime: 1109
termdate: 1979-10-26
campsites:
  BC(14/09,4580m),C1(20/09,5200m),C2A(26/09,6050m),xxx(6100m); C2B(03/10,5700m),C3(13/10,6100m),C4(18/10,6500m),Smt(19-21/10)

routememo:
  This mountain previously known as Ganesh II until re-surveyed in early 1990's.  

  Kitahara, ex-helicopter - 25 Oct 79

  Summit
  20 Oct - Ogura again
           Maeda
           Eguchi
           Mingma Tenzing
   
  21 Oct  Kitahara and Yoko

  Leader BC all the time
  Kitahara little sick; others leave 26 BC and arrive 1 Nov.
  Climbed North Face; others route from C2 very difficult and changed route making: 
  New C2 - 5700m
      C3 - 6100m
      C4 - 6500m

  1st and 2nd parties to top from C4, 3rd from C3.


  Otsu - 17 Oct 79

  North Face Ganesh III instead of East Ridge. Made C3 already and hope for summit end Oct.


  Ogura - 24 Aug 79

  All 6 Japanese members now in KTM. Kuroda goes to Japan 25 Aug, so not member of climbing team; only advance party.

  2 Nepalese members:
  Mingma Tenzing
    Summit 1978 Tilicho, Japan
    C5 1977 Annapurna I, Dutch

  Will use oxygen for sleeping in C3; but not for climbing
  50 days BC to summit because want all members to reach and summit
  10 days approach march
  Kuroda's information of 12 Aug correct otherwise 


  Kuroda - 12 Aug 79

  2 arrive 11 Aug; others arrive 22 Aug. 
  Leave 1 Sept by road to Trisuli Bazar; leave Trisuli 2 Sept
  Arrive BC after 9 days with 120 porters

  BC on Sangjung Glacier at 4700m 
  Route = SE Ridge

  Spr 1973 "trial expedition" led by Ogura went to Sangjung Glacier and reached SE Ridge Col at 6000m on trekking-recce climb will climb from glacier to col and thence up ridge.

  3 camps above with C3 at about 6500m. C2 at Col most difficult part:
  We have many avalanches below Col from both sides at 7000m rock knife-ridge

  Reach summit after 50 days from BC arrival on 10 Sept. Expedition student members, very young, 1st time in Nepal, not professional. "Safety climbing we hope so we climb up only five days."

  6 Japanese members and 2 Nepalese (Sherpa) members and 1 sirdar Pasang and 5 HA Sherpa porters.

  Oxygen, maybe only medical but if dangerous, also sleeping; only 4-5 bottles: 1-2 at BC, rest at col.


expid: NILC79301
peakid: NILC
year: 1979
route1: W Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Tsutomu Nishimura
sponsor: Himeji Gakuyu Dojin Expedition 1979 to Nilgiri Central Peak
approach: Pokhara->Kali Gandaki->Sirkur->BC
bcdate: 1979-09-28
smtdate: 1979-10-25
termdate: 1979-10-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to icefall
campsites: BC(28/09,3900m),C1(01/10,4250m),C2(15/10,4930m),C3(24/10,5600m),xxx(25/10,<6000m)
routememo:
  Kozuki, et al - 11 Nov 79

  No C4. High point was little below 6000m on 25 Oct - no higher because icefall and seracs and no way around. Approach route was east from Choya and north of ridge from Pangbu Khola. Climbing route was West Face.

  High point reached by 8 members: all climbing members except Nishimoto & Nishimura.

  If came 1 month earlier could have succeeded; then seracs condition better. After 20 Oct icefall had many ice blocks falling. 

  All arrived KTM 5 Nov - leader sick from altitude and went to Japan quickly.
  No accidents or frostbite.

  Between 5000 and 5400m overhanging face.


  Izutsu, Kawasaki & Tsubota - 6 Sept 79

  6 members in KTM now; 6 members arrive 23 Sept.

  12 (2 BC only)
  Cargo now in BKK. 3-4 days after arriving KTM, 4 go to Pokhara. Do not wait for other 6. 

  8 days from Pokhara with 60-80 porters to BC via Pangbu Khola (or Chokhopani Khola) - BC due west of Central Peak at 3900m
  route = NW Ridge
  maybe 5 camps above BC:

  C1 - 4300m 
  C2 - 4800m
  C3 - 5500m
  C4 - 6000m
  C5 - 6500m
  4 weeks BC to summit so about end of October
  4 Sherpas above BC including sirdar Pemba Norbu

  Oxygen medical only


expid: EVER79302
peakid: EVER
year: 1979
route1: N Face (recon to 6400m)
route2: N Col (recon to 6800m)
nation: Japan
leaders: Atsuo Saito
sponsor: Japanese Alpine Club (JAC)
approach: Rongbuk Glacier
bcdate: 1979-09-26
smtdate: 1979-10-12
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to fatal avalanche
accidents: 3 Chinese assistants died in avalanche
primid: EVER80103
campsites:
  BC(26/09,5150m),C1(5550m),C2(6150m),Central Rongbuk Glacier(08/10,6400m); East Rongbuk Glacier.C3(10/10,6500m),xxx(12/10,6800m)

routememo:
  Shohei Wada - 7 Jan 80
  Member 1980 Japan Everest Expedition

  North side of Everest reconnaissance
  Last autumn:

  9 Japanese members of whom 8 were climbers plus about 10 Chinese assistant climbers. Routes reconnoitered were:

  1. Main Rongbuk Glacier to N Face
  2. East Rongbuk Glacier to NE Ridge

  in 2 separate parties.

  1st route, party reached 6500m. Very difficult to find a camp site on N Face at 6000-6500m and Chinese porters will have trouble in Spring attempt with steep technical parts. Above 6500m face is not so steep. No accidents during recce of this route.

  On 2nd route, did not reach N Col. Were struck by avalanche at c6800m while making route. 6 climbers were in this party, climbing improved on gentle slope when avalanche hit. 1 Japanese and 3 Chinese swept down 200m by avalanche. 1 Japanese, Ryoten Hasegawa, Churen Himal summiter on Meiji University expedition, had 6 ribs broken. 3 Chinese killed (1 Chinese was well-known Han Chinese mountaineer who had gone to 8500m on Everest in 1975).

  Wada was not on 1979 recce.


  Hasihua, Correspondent - 2 Dec 79

  3 Chinese assistants (including 1 Tibetan) died in an avalanche at North Col of Everest in Oct on Sino-Japanese recce.


expid: HIUP79301
peakid: HIUP
year: 1979
route1: SE side
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiroko Asano
sponsor: Shakunage Dojin
approach: Pokhara->Modi Khola->Hinko (accident)
termnote: Abandoned due to fatal avalanche on approach march
accidents: 3 killed in avalanche on approach (Hinko Cave)
agency: Trans Himalayan Trekking (THT)
routememo:
  Moti, THT - 17 Oct 79

  2 Japanese (Miss Noriko Yamazaki & Miss Hiroko Fuji) bodies found; will be cremated near site or in Kathmandu. Died in avalanche just above Hinko. Taking seldom-used trail to BC in Annapurna Sanctuary to climb 6441m Hiunchuli 9th Oct 2:30 pm. 

  Other 5 Japanese women not yet in KTM but are Ok except for shock. When will come, will know in 3 days. Lost all equipment and food and Pasang Sherpa, a porter, not climbing Sherpa.


expid: CHOY79301
peakid: CHOY
year: 1979
route1: W Ridge-W Face
nation: W Germany/Iran
leaders: Mischa Saleki
ascent1: 4th claimed
approach: Khumbu Valley->Nangpa La
bcdate: 1979-09-20
smtdate: 1979-10-10
termnote: Success claimed
campsites: BC(20/09),C1(7170m),Smt(10/10)
routememo:
  Messner - 19 March 82

  Messner does not believe Saleki reached summit of Cho Oyu in 1979, but he surely was on the mountain. Chinese told Messner they got him.


  Mischa Saleki - 16 Nov 79

  Saleki went alone across Nangpa La and then to Cho Oyu in 1977 Spring to W Ridge. Reached about 6800m under W Ridge and then fell 12m and cut left wrist and stopped.

  This autumn again alone on main W Ridge. Crossed Nangpa La at end of Sept and in 10 days was on summit after ferrying loads by different approach to Ridge, more west than in 1977. Icefall to surmount and on first try had hallucination of dead German and fled, breaking crampon in process, but went up again and was successful on top sometime between 10 and 13 Oct. Very bad weather during descent but found his tent then having left camp, lost his way and forgets this period but actually spent 7 days in confusion. Then met man on yak who pointed to him way to villages where Chinese police took him in charge. Had no food for 7 days and found Chinese giving him oxygen. 4 weeks in clinic including being taken to Lhasa.

  Goes to solo Broad Peak next June.

  Has made many films. 

  Climbed Tirch Mir with Don Whillans (Schmatz party also on Tirich Mir at same time).


expid: DHA279301
peakid: DHA2
year: 1979
route1: S side of E Ridge
route2: S side of E Ridge up; S Ride down (to D-III-V)
route3: (From D-V-III) S side up; S side of E Ridge down
nation: Japan
leaders: Michiko Takahashi
sponsor: Japan Dhaulagiri Traverse Expedition 1979
ascent1: 4th,5th,6th,8th
ascent2: 7th
ascent3: 9th
bcdate: 1979-08-23
smtdate: 1979-10-08
smttime: 1030
termdate: 1979-10-26
othersmts:
  Climbed Dhaulagiri III (DHA3-793-01), Dhaulagiri V (DHA5-793-01), Tsaurabong Peak (TSUR-793-01); attempted Snow Peak (SNOW-793-01)

campsites:
  TempBC(23/08,3700m),Dep(26/08,4300m),BC(02/09,4900m),C1(08/09,5800m),C2(15/09,6500m),C3(29/09,6800m),C4(05/10,7450m),Smt(08-09/10),Smt.C5(13/10),Smt(16/10)

routememo:
  Japanese Expedition Chronicle (Dhaulagiri 2nd side)

  Sept 03 - Started route-making toward East Ridge of Dhaulagiri 2nd by Koga and Nezu.

  Sept 08 - C1 was intended to be established at 5400m, however the route condition was very good, so Koga, Nezu and a guide (Sherpa) pitched C1 at 5800m. 

  Sept 09-10 - The route to C2 was made, crossing Tsaurabong Glacier, which contains many hidden crevasses.

  Sept 15 - C2 was estabished by Koga and Nezu just below Snow Peak at 6500m.

  Sept 16-17 - Two days were spent for route-making to C3 by Koga and Nezu and those members went down to C1 for their rest.

  Sept 18-21 - Due to heavy snow fall, members and guides in all camps stopped their movement. During this period, 5 members went down to Base Camp to take a rest for two days.

  Sept 22-24 - Fixed the route that got damaged by the heavy snow fall.

  Sept 25 - Four members (Koga, Nezu, Araki and Chiba) moved to C2 from Base Camp.

  Sept 26 - Those four members started to carry loads to the site for C3, fixing the route.

  Sept 29 - C3 was established by Araki and Nezu at 6800m. After establishing the camp, they started route-making toward C4.

  Oct 01 - Reached the place for C4.

  Oct 05 - C4 was established by Koga, Nezu, Araki and Chiba at 7450m. Since the site was too narrow to pitch the tents, a snow cave was dug and the tents were pitched in the cave.

  Oct 06 - Started route-making toward the summit (also C5).

  Oct 08 - Left C4 at 06:00. Making the route in strong wind, Koga, Nezu, Araki and Chiba made the summit of Dhaulagiri II at 10:30. Afterward those members went down to C2.

  Oct 09 - Three guides (Ang Tshering, Gyalzen, Lhakpa Norbu) made the summit directly from C3 through C4. They stayed at C4 after climbing.

  Oct 10 - Those guides who made the summit last day again went to the summit to carry loads and went down to C3. Komatsu, Hirokawa and three guides (Lama Phinjo, Ang Pasang, Ajoa Tenzing) reached the summit at 15:25 from C3 (one of the guides from C2).

  Oct 12 - Five members (Komatsu, Koga, Araki, Nezu and Chiba) and two guides (Lhakpa Norbu, Lama Phinjo) moved into C4.

  Oct 13 - In the afternoon, 5 members established C5 at the summit of Dhaulagiri II. Used oxygen during their sleeping time.

  Oct 14 - Those 5 members left C5 at 10:24 and reached Advanced Camp at the saddle between Dhaulagiri II and III, 7550m.

  Oct 15 - The traverse party left Advanced Camp at 8:30 and reached Dhaulagiri III 7715m at 10:08. After taking a rest for one hour at the summit, they went to Advanced Camp of Dhaulagiri V side, located at the saddle between Dhaulagiri III and V at 7200m. On the way to Advanced Camp of D-V, the party met the party from Dhaulagiri V, Ogura and Okura. Arrived AC at 14:40.

  Oct 16 - Left Advance Camp at 9:00 and reached the summit of Dhaulagiri V. After the party made the summit, Komatsu stayed at C4 of D-V and the others went down to C3.

  Maki, Wakabayashi and Gyalzen went to Advance Camp of D-II on Oct 16, to climb D-II and to support the party from D-V. Wakabayashi went down to C4 after the ascent of the summit; Gyalzen also climbed up D-III to find the cached equipment.


  Mrs Takahashi & Ogura, Press conference - 28 Oct 79

  Others arrive KTM 6 Nov by truck. T & D arrive yesterday from TBC at 3700m by helicopter. Caravan left TBC 26 Oct.

  Ogura has frostbitten feet and all toes but serious ones only 2 on left foot (not in hospital).

  12 Oct - from C4 Col between Snow Peak (not to snow summit) D-II to south side East Ridge of Dhaulagiri II.

  13 Oct - from C4 7300m to Dhaulagiri II summit and from D-V C4 (7150m) to Dhaulagiri V summit. 5 members in summit Dhaulagiri II camp and 2 in summit camp of D-5.

  14 Oct - 5 to Col camp at between D-II and D-III 7400m and 2 to Col Camp between D-V and D-III 7200m.

  15 Oct and 2 meet - 5 from D-II reach D-III summit 10:08 am and go down to Col between D-III and D-V and next 2 others from D-II at col between Dhaulagiri V. 2 to Dhaulagiri III and thence to camp on col between D-II and D-III. When met, prayed for 2 dead Japanese climbers, friends who died Jan 1978 in Japan and 1978 Dhaulagiri I Germans expedition. At 1:30 pm in good health - stayed together 1 hour.

  16 Oct - 5 from Dhaulagiri II to Dhaulagiri V at 11:30 am and 4 then to C3 2:00 pm (planned spend that night on summit but got top early). 2 from D-V to D-II summit 5:30 pm and to C4 7800m at 9:00 pm.

  D-II party 5 men at BC 17 Oct
  D-V  party 2 men at BC 18 Oct

  Slow because Ogura's frostbite which got 15th night between D-III and D-II in camp. Ogura not brought down between D-II and D-III. 

  17 Japanese climbers only - other 3 TV cameraman only to C1's + 20 Sherpas above BC and 18 above C1.

  D-II to D-V 6 km as crow flies - entire route BC to BC = 35 km looking from below, route looks mostly level but actual climbing up and down constantly.

  D-III completely independant peak, not flat route from D-II to D-III as it appeared. 

  All 17 Japanese climbers reached at least 1 summit.

  Even on 14 Oct not sure success because need 2 more days good weather and weather could change.

  Difficult to calculate days required to get meeting at schedule near D-III. 
  D-II and D-V climbed 7-9 times and D-III 8 times.
  Sherpa to D-III brought oxygen to Ogura.
  Some Japanese and Sherpas used oxygen for sleeping in top camps - 12 bottles used.

  "I couldn't do it because I sprained right ankle" 28 Aug near Depot Camp 4300m. Mrs. T. did not do traverse.

  First traverse of 3 Peaks in all Himalayas.

  C2 D-V avalanches hit 3 times and broke tents and carried away equipment

  Routes:

  5 up south side of East Ridge of Dhaulagiri II and down South Ridge
  - up NE Ridge of D-III and down SW Ridge of D-III

  No peak between D-III and D-V

  Then 5 up NE Ridge D-V and down SE Ridge D-V to summit White Peak by its NW Ridge and down East Face.

  Oct 12
  party of 5 - to D-II C4
           2 - 

  Oct 13
  party of 5 - to summit D-II
           2 - to summit D-V

  Oct 14
  party of 5 - col between D-II and C3
           2 - col between D-V and D-III

  Oct 15
  party of 5 - D-III summit to col
           2 - D-III summit and col

  Oct 16
  party of 5 - D-V summit and C3 and C4
           2 - D-II summit and C4


  Sharma Tourism Ministry - 16 Oct 79

  4 members:
    Koga Yukio
    Araki Shigetsugu
    Chiba Takayoshi 
    Nezu Koji

  Climbed Dhaulagiri II 8 Oct. Started climbing from 7200m C4 in am and reached top at 10:40 am; stayed on top 1/2 hour and returned to C4 same day.

  9 Oct 3 Sherpas also reached summit of Dhaulagiri II from C4: 
    Lhakpa Norbu, 23, Namche
    Ang Tsering, 24
    Gyalgen Sherpa, 28, Ramechap

  Two of other Japanese: 
    Ogura Shigeta
    Okura Yoshitani

  Climbed Dhaulagiri V on 9 Oct reached summit 5:30 pm from C4
  from their C4 at 7050m, both C4's established on 5 Oct

  Dhaulagiri II and V summiters would start traversing mountain very soon, as of 9 Oct evening LO message. Leader says basically same with no new details.


  Mrs Takahashi - 7 Aug 79

  10 members already in Pokhara 
  10 in KTM and these to Pokhara tomorrow
  All 20 and 300 porters leave Pokhara 10 Aug

  Entire route = about 25 km; this longest route planned in Nepal. In 1975 had thought to traverse Dhaulagiri IV to V, but this meant 2 BC's and no contact; this would be 23 km.

  We wish teams will go entire route but may be not possible; one may go only to D-V and make attack and go back; other team maybe to II, III and V and BC.

  "If weather is good" I think we have power but if weather is bad, we can't do entire route by at least Dhaulgiri II team.

  "I like rock climbing and my club only 2 or 3 women and I didn't have chance to climb with other women." This why no women members.

  Husband's parents look after daughter while Mrs T away; they are retired; Mrs T's parents working; "I like climbing more than job"; her husband still climbs but like his job better than climbing.
   
  This first Japanese expedition with woman leader and all members men. 


  Ogura & Wada - 31 July 79

  2 porters:
  1)  BC -> East Ridge of White Peak to summit White Peak to summit Dhaulagiri V to flat summit of point 7249 to summit Dhaulagiri II.
  2)  BC to Snow Peak South Face (not to summit) to Dhaulagiri II and thence south.

  Plans is for 2 teams to pass at Dhaulagiri III. Each party has option to descend by our route or by other's route; if do latter, one party must wait and escort other.

  4 members in KTM - arrived 20 July.
  15 more arrive 31 July
  Leader  arrive 5 Aug
  Leave KTM 6 Aug except leader and 3 TV film about 8 Aug.
  All leave Pokhara about 8 Aug - 15 days to TBC at 3900m
  Route up Dhaulagiri V = same South Ridge as successful Spr 1975 expedition (but new route for party from north).

  Route up Dhaulagiri II = same East Ridge (but new route for part from south) as successful Spr 1978 expedition.

  Route on Dhaulagiri III - new route
  C5's one last camps for climbing Dhaulagiri V and II; C5 for Dhaulagiri V 7500m and for D-II little higher.
  C6's same altitude as C5's. 

  Arrive TBC about 23 Aug, arrive BC 27 Aug
  1st party atop white Peak after 7 days from BC established
  1st party atop Snow Peak 8-9 days after BC established

  Dhaulagiri V   - 40 days from BC established
  Dhaulagiri II  - 42 days from BC   "
  Dhaulagiri III - 47 days from BC   "

  By each party on same day from separate attack camps: AC from south 7200m 
  thus Dhaulagiri III in mid-Oct.

  Between Dhaulagiri V and III is a col at 7100m; from Col to Dhaula III there is about 60-degree rock face; this the most difficult part of climbing.

  15 climbing members including leader, others = 3 film team

  300 porters Pokhara->TBC
  17 H-A Sherpas including 2 Sirdars and 6 others to C2's = 23 Sherpas above BC. Sirdars Mingma Tenzing and Lhakpa Tenzing.

  Oxygen for sleeping at highest camps, C6's and AC's [advance camps]; no climbing oxygen. Have total 20 bottles.


expid: DHA579301
peakid: DHA5
year: 1979
route1: SE Ridge
route2: SE Ridge up; NE Ridge down (to D-III-II)
route3: (From D-III-II) NE Ridge up; SE Ridge down
nation: Japan
leaders: Michiko Takahashi
sponsor: Japan Dhaulagiri Traverse Expedition 1979
ascent1: 2nd,3rd,4th,6th
ascent2: 5th
ascent3: 7th
bcdate: 1979-08-23
smtdate: 1979-10-09
smttime: 1737
termdate: 1979-10-26
primid: DHA279301
othersmts:
  Climbed Dhaulagiri II (DHA2-793-01), Dhaulagiri III (DHA3-793-01), Tsaurabong Peak (TSUR-793-01); attempted Snow Peak (SNOW-793-01)

campsites:
  TempBC(23/08,3700m),Dep(26/08,4300m),BC(02/09,4900m),C1(07/09,5400m),C2(14/09,5900m),C3(26/09,6400m),C4(05/10,7150m),Smt(09,12-14/10),Smt.C5(13/10),Smt(16/10)

routememo:
  Japanese Expedition Chronicle (Dhaulagiri 5th side)

  Sept 03 - Nukita, Fukushima and one guide (Sherpa) reached the site for C1 at 5400m, the end of the ridge from White Peak, part of the SE Ridge of Dhaulagiri V.

  Sept 07 - Nukita, Shikishima and Fukushima established C1 at 5400m high.

  Sept 08 - Nukita, Shikishima and Fukushima reached the site for C2. The site was very steep and impossible to pitch tents. The site had to be dug and settled. At this time, there was no snow on this route below C2.

  Sept 14 - C2 was established by Nukita, Kobayashi and two guides.

  Sept 15 - The route to White Peak was completed by Nukita and Kobayashi. White Peak is not really a peak; it is part of the SE Ridge and no altitude difference with C3. The reason why White Peak can be seen as a peak from downside is a kind of illusion. From the place called White Peak to C3 is a narrow ridge and same level.

  Sept 17 - The route was continued to the site of C3 for Okayama Univ Exp's, 1975, at 6400m, by Okura and Shikishima. Late this night, snow started falling.

  Sept 18 - Due to heavy snow falling, Okura and Shikishima could not climb up more than 3 pitches from C2, then they climbed down to C1. Nukita and Kobayashi returned to C2 from C1.

  Sept 19 - It continued snowing all day. Since Nukita and Kobayashi felt the hazard of snow avalanche, they quit route-making and returned to C2. At 10:30, the snow avalanche occured and hit C2. Fortunately, the members were safe; however all tents, except the one members stayed in, climbing gears, and food boxes were swept away and those materials were impossible to find out.

  Sept 22 - Snowing finally stopped. Members and guides started their movement again. However, the fixed ropes were completely buried under heavy snow; they had to be dug up.

  Sept 23 - This day also, Okura and Fukushima dug up the ropes and continued one pitch and a half from the last one.

  Sept 24 - Okura and Fukushima continued the route 6 pitches from the last rope. At this time, our C3 was planned to establish the site higher than Okayama Univ Exp's C3.

  Sept 26 - At 17:00, the snow avalanche hit C2 again. The next avalanche occured at 18:00 and hit the same camp. These two times of avalanche swept away some climbing gears, kitchen gears, and food boxes.

  Sept 28 - C3 was decided to be established at 6400m, the same location as Okayama Univ's, by Nukita and Okura.

  Oct 02 - Ogura, Fukushima, Kobayashi and Shikishima reached the site for C4, at 7150m. Late night, snow started to fall.

  Oct 03 - The fixed ropes were buried by the snow last night and were forced to dig up.

  Oct 05 - C4 was established by Okura and Nukita at 7150m.

  Oct 09 - Ogura and Okura made the summit of Dhaulagiri V, 7618m, at 17:37, fixing the ropes to the summit.

  Oct 12 - Nukita, Kobayashi and 3 guides made the summit at 12:50 carrying loads.

  Oct 13 - Fukushima and Shikishima made the summit at 13:50. Those guides who made the summit the last day went to the summit again to carry loads. Ogura and Okura went to the summit again at 16:00 and established C5 there. They used oxygen during their sleeping time.

  Oct 14 - Ogura and Okura started traversing towards Dhaulagiri II at 10:30. This party reached the Advance Camp located at the saddle between D-V and D-III at 17:00. The altitude of this camp is 7200m. 3 guides made the summit on D-V at 11:40.

  Oct 15 - The traverse party left the Advance Camp at 07:00. They directly climbed the slope of Dhaulagiri III from the camp. The summit of D-III was made at 17:00. Due to the lack of oxygen and the strong wind, Ogura got frostbite on his toes. They reached Advance Camp located between D-III and D-II at 20:20. The altitude of the camp is 7550m.

  Oct 16 - Because Ogura got altitude sickness, he could not move out from the camp. From C4 of D-II, Maki, Wakabayashi and one guide climbed to the Advance Camp to rescue him. Supported by the rescue party, the traverse party reached C4 at 21:00. The two parties made the summit of Dhaulagiri II at 17:30.


expid: NUMB79301
peakid: NUMB
year: 1979
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Norway
leaders: Arne Naess
sponsor: Norwegian Himalayan Expedition to Mt Numbur
approach: Lamosangu->Junbesi->Dudh Kund (BC)
bcdate: 1979-10-14
smtdate: 1979-10-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6050m due to dangerous snow conditions, avalanche danger and bad weather
campsites: BC(14/10,4850m),ABC(16/10,5300m),C1(26/10,5850m),xxx(29/10,6050m)
routememo:
  Route changed to South Spur but no real progress on it.

  Naess - 14 Nov 79

  Were on SW Ridge. Went faster than schedule up to 6000m despite bad weather with fog every late am and snow every afternoon so tracks had to be reopened every am.

  Then came to icefield. Had over 1-1/2m of snow over it and it was extremely dangerous for avalanches and is 60 degrees; technically not difficult but avalanche danger such that could not risk sending Sherpas into it. Decided to wait a week to see whether fog would stop and snow conditions change with sun. Went back up again with Naess and Hoibakk to make alpine-style ascent. Naess got bronchitis night before going to top camp.

  Got permission for South Spur and hoped to do alpine-style ascent of this spur, but would have needed 2 weeks for this route requiring lot of fixed rope and all members by now suffering from bronchitis.

  2 previous expeditions had been on icefield in spring when much less snow.

  Highest point reached: 6050m, 150m into icefield by all members on several times. Icefield is from 5800-5900m to 6200-6300m.


  Naess - 30 Sept 79

  Same route as Japanese and Swiss expeditions: SW Ridge

  BC at top of Solu Khola where Swiss had theirs at 4840m at Dudh Kund just under glacier.

  Will have 2 high camps and 1 tent at about 6600m. Hope to make C2 large enough for 4 people at about 6200m.

  Friday 5th Oct: Naess and 1 who arrives 3 Oct fly helicopter to Junbesi. Others left KTM Sat 29 Sept and should reach Junbesi Sat or Sun. 2 days march from Junbesi to BC. Rambug 3 days-stop for climbers but porters direct to BC.

  BC on 9 or 10 Oct
  20 days to reach C2, 1-2 days more to summit. 
  4 Sherpas above including sirdar.
  Used 150-160 porters but may not get that many because of Dashain holidays.

  10 oxygen not yet arrived in KTM for medical only and skiing down when moving much faster, but oxygen may not arrive and anyway skiing doubtful.


  Faalund - 21 Sept 79

  Route from Dudh Kund lake from southeast and other onto SW Ridge and not through icefall which Japanese climbed.

  Leave KTM 26 Sept. Naess arrive KTM 23 or 24 Sept. Not in Himalayas too much a circus performing for audience - interested salon for selling, equipment and actually mountaineering but letting media define it.

  This expedition wants to show an alternative. Agrees with Messner about mountaineering by fair means, which he wants to define better than Messner did: not to offend nature. He did use oxygen but used technology in plastic boots, etc. This expedition's clothing, tents, sleeping bags, mattress, all natural fibers (reindeer skins, etc). French packs not aluminum but steel. Wool underwear and breeches. Tents are cotton and silk. Ropes: tried to get silk but couldn't get them so are plastic (will come again and then will have silk rope - maybe to Everest).

  4 Sherpas above BC.

  This 1st Norwegian expedition on peak in Nepal: earlier Norwegians were 1907 attempt on Kabru from Sikkim.

  1971 IHE members on Everest
  1971 autumn Naess recce of Gaurishankar.


expid: DHA179301
peakid: DHA1
year: 1979
route1: N Face (to 7800m)
route2: NE Ridge (to 7400m)
nation: Poland
leaders: Gerard Malaczynski
sponsor: Gdansk-Himalaya Expedition 1979
countries: USA
approach: Pokhara->Beni->Myagdi Khola (BC)
bcdate: 1979-09-01
smtdate: 1979-10-03
termdate: 1979-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to bad weather, high winds and snowfall
accidents: No accidents. Bertulis got sick while on solo recce but was found in time
campsites:
  BC(01/09,4700m),C1(15/09,5500m),C2(26/09,6000m),C3(28/09,6800m),C4(02/10,7400m),xxx(03,12,14/10,7700m)

routememo:
  Malaczynski - 29 Oct 79

  Expedition reached 7800m 3 times: 3 Oct for first time, then 12 and 14 Oct.

  North Face can be climbed; may try again in spring; had bad weather with snow daily and strong winds. Rocks 7700-7900m are problem to climbing; impossible to climb in such weather.

  Others arrive KTM 31 Oct. 

  No accidents. Bertulis got sick while on solo recce but was found in time.


  Bertulis - 21 Oct 79
   
  Bertulis and 2 members now in KTM. Expedition made 3 attempts to establish C5 at 7800m on 4th, 10th and 11th. Climbers decimated by severe weather by frostbite and ill health. About 7600-7700m highest point reached. Climbed via North Face to summit ridge which could be called West Ridge; reached this summit.

  Abandoned idea of going up a face and down a ridge. Problems on face is lack of good tent sites. Only one good site for tents on whole face and it very low at 6000m.

  No use of oxygen at all even sleeping by anyone.

  No other mountains climbed, no accidents, serious illness or serious frostbite.

  Left BC 15 Oct. If porters available, rest leave BC 20 Oct. Might possibly make another attempt for summit if porters late and weather fine, so officially expedition not finished when Bertulis left.


  Malaczynski - 17 Aug 79

  Leave KTM Tuesday 21 Aug to Pokhara. Caravan to Myagdi Khola via Beni and Khibang. Leave Pokhara 22 Aug. About 2 weeks to BC with about 150 porters. BC at about 4800m.

  Route up North Face via tried in 1950's down NE Ridge with same. 
      
  Perhaps up East Face and down to NE Col.

  On North Face, hope 5 camps enough may be less. In '50's had trouble to find site on pear for a camp. Poles expect to climb all of the Pear route in one day.

  6-7 weeks climbing. 4 men and few porters will go in advance to site BC in advance of main party.

  No oxygen for climbing or sleeping - only medical equipment.


  Letter from Juan Massons (Spanish Dhaulagiri I) - 17 Apr 79

  On April 8th we have placed our base camp at an altitude of 4600m. It means than in some three days all the loads and members will be living at base camp. Actually on April 8th, one third of the members remain in an Intermediate Camp at 4100m and the rest in a low camp at 3600m.


