# exped

expid: BARU00103
peakid: BARU
year: 2000
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Steve Hartland
sponsor: Jagged Globe Baruntse Expedition 2000
ascent1: 52nd
countries: USA
bcdate: 2000-05-07
smtdate: 2000-05-15
smttime: 1345
termdate: 2000-05-17
campsites: BC(07/05,5550m),ABC(10/05,6020m),C1(14/05,6450m),Smt(15/05)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Barun Glacier above Makalu BC
  C1 100m below foot of SE Ridge.


  Whole trip went very smoothly.

  15 May left C1 at 03:15 and on top 13:45, left top 14:05 and back to 17:20. Took time on difficult top of ridge where fixed 450m, lots of cornices on way to summit.


expid: BARU99312
peakid: BARU
year: 1999
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Rudolf Schweigkofler
sponsor: Trans Tirol Baruntse Expedition
approach: Mera BC
bcdate: 1999-11-12
smtdate: 1999-11-14
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to frostbite from wind
campsites: BC(12/11,5400m),C1(13/11,5800m),xxx(14/11,6400m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  High point at C2.

  Schweigkofler at 6400m on 14 Nov injured by wind (this means mild frostbite on nose and lips). 

  Team arrived Nepal 26 Oct, left for mountain 03 Nov, returned KTM 26 Nov.


expid: CHOY00101
peakid: CHOY
year: 2000
route1: NW side
nation: Austria
leaders: Wilfried Studer
countries: Switzerland
approach: From north
bcdate: 2000-04-16
smtdate: 2000-05-01
termdate: 2000-05-09
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(16/04,4950m),ABC(19/04,5700m),C1(27/04,6400m),xxx(01,05/05,6500m)
accidents: Kobler's serious stomach illness
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Kurt Kobler left 20 April from BC. Tried to go to ABC but could not make it as he had serious dysentery, serious stomach illness, vomiting always. Florian tried 3 times to go to C2, the first attempt made on 5 May; Studer tried once on 1 May. 

  Kurt Kobler drank from river without treating the water so he has gone home to recover.

  Silvia and Wilfried Studer left for Everest from Tingri on 10th of May.

  The Iranian team slaughtered a yak at BC and all Sherpas on all teams are very upset and claim people will die. Many discussions among teams. Another yak died or was killed. The Sherpas said two people would die because 2 yaks died, thus the Russian and Finn. Florian firmly believes the lost Russian and Finn reached the summit on 5 May and died on way down.


expid: CHOY00102
peakid: CHOY
year: 2000
route1: NW side
nation: Russia
leaders: Marina Ershova
ascent1: 350,353
countries: Finland
bcdate: 2000-04-14
smtdate: 2000-05-10
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2000-05-14
campsites: BC(14/04),ABC(17/04,5700m),C1(20/04,6100m),C2(25/04,7000m),C3(03/05,7500m),Smt(10,12/05)
accidents: Alanen in C3 needed oxygen but none found; Rasanen not feeling well and left early
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  ABC same as others
  C1 same as others
  C2 same as others
  C3 almost as others (50m higher than others).

  10 May Ershova from C2 3:00 am and summit 3:00 pm with Iranian's Sherpa on top at same time. 2:00 pm had reached plateau but true summit at 3:00 pm (saw Everest); slept in C3 because very tired. 12th May summiters from C3 to top and saw Everest also; at top 1:30 pm, same time as 2 Japanese and 2 Sherpas.

  4 May 2 members from C3, Noora at 6:00 am and Pavel at 8:00 am. From ABC saw one at 12:00 and other at 12:15 pm at summit plateau. 12:30 by walkie-talkie Noora's voice said she going to top and near it, doesn't mention Pavel. No more information regarding them. 9th May Koreans went to top but saw no trace of them and other summiters also saw no trace. Some members went 100-200m above C3 but also saw nothing. LO gave no death certificates but said should fax Tiya. The summit pair said would not go up to acclimatize and descend, but insisted they go all the way to top in one push. Died perhaps because not strong, not acclimatized and maybe confused about where to go. 

  Belgian Cho Oyu's Georges, 21 May: he and others from his expedition from ABC saw two people from this expedition moving up toward summit but one cannot see top from ABC so don't know if they reached it. Leader worried by no final radio news on top or any time later. It looked like top area was covered in cloud - probably they got lost on the snow field of summit plateau. No one has seen them anywhere on mountain and no traces of their falling seen (Georges looked for traces when he went up) which is why he thinks they wandered astray on plateau. No search party sent because bad weather set in.

  Korean Cho Oyu (Bae leader) member Ha, 29 May: footprints of Russian and Finn showed they went toward a peak east (to left) of true summit, and suggested they fell down Nepalese side.


expid: CHOY00103
peakid: CHOY
year: 2000
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Luis Stitzinger
sponsor: DAV Summit Club Cho Oyu Expedition 2000
ascent1: 360,363
countries: Austria
bcdate: 2000-04-24
smtdate: 2000-05-16
smttime: 1215
termdate: 2000-05-22
campsites: BC(24/04,4900m),ABC(26/04,5650m),C1(04/05,6320m),C2(10/05,6925m),C3(15/05,7400m),Smt(16-17/05)
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC  at Chinese camp
  ABC at normal spot
  C1  at normal spot
  C3  at below Yellow Band.

  Michael Dreher left early on 8th of May due to a lung infection and was not acclimatizing well. Wolfgang Kunze also left early on 3 May due to stomach sickness, dysentery, and could not eat.

  Sherpas: Ang Kami from Kathmandu went to C3, Mingma Sherpa reached 8000m with Henry Voigt and turned back because he did not feel like climbing.

  On 17 May the second team summited at 12:30 pm - they saw prayer flags at top and a few glimpses of Everest, then came down to C3 to spend the night. It was a little cloudy on the summit. Holzknecht originally tried to summit with Henry, but turned around just after C3 and then summited the next day (17 May). (Summiter turned back before C3).


expid: CHOY00104
peakid: CHOY
year: 2000
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Robert Anderson
sponsor: Jagged Globe Cho Oyu Expedition 2000
ascent1: 364
countries: Ecuador, Guatemala, Mexico, UK
bcdate: 2000-04-28
smtdate: 2000-05-19
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2000-05-27
campsites: BC(28/04),ABC(02/05,5740m),C1(11/05,6400m),C2(18/05,7100m),C3(22/05,7400m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  19 May made last ascent of Cho Oyu at 4:00 pm (NST) from C2; left C2 2:30 am and 4 on top 4:00 pm and slept C2 at different times at 6:30 pm to 11:30 pm. All down to ABC on 20th. Vinals and Khumshu Sherpa (Makalu area) turned back at 7800m, Vinals got diarrhea and returned to C2. Vinals spent 5 nights.

  Second summit push from C3 pitched about 12 May by Sherpas but climbed through by 19 May summit party. 22nd May Vinals and Herrera slept in C3 but on 23 May bad weather, lot of snow, avalanche danger and too dangerous to try to go higher with no Sherpas, so down to ABC in knee-deep snow and crevasses to watch out for same day.


expid: CHOY00105
peakid: CHOY
year: 2000
route1: NW side
nation: Belgium
leaders: Marc Van De Walle
ascent1: 356
bcdate: 2000-04-22
smtdate: 2000-05-14
termdate: 2000-05-18
agency: Adventure Zambuling Treks
campsites:
  BC(22/04,4800m),IntC(24/04,5200m),ABC(25/04,5600m),C1(28/04,6200m),C2(03/05,6900m),C3(11/05,7600m),Smt(14/05)

routememo:
  Left C3 on 14 May at 3:30 am (NST) - on top: first was Hoonaert, then Boons, then very soon afterwards Van Praet, then Morel and de Hemptinne together, finally at 11:30 am Georges. Tirtha Tamang about same time as Boons and Van Praet. Strong winds that day. 

  1st summit bid from C3 on 12 May Murawski and Dorje went up to top but turned back at about 7900m because of strong winds and Murawski having breathing trouble, so back to C3 where Murawski used oxygen to revive himself and then down to C1 same day. 

  All saw Everest from top. Van Praet got cerebral hemorrhage at ABC on 17 May early in morning; was given oxygen, started getting confused, given valium and cortizone whereby got seizures. With help of Duncan Chessell and his Sherpa Pema Tenji helped organize stretcher (while Japanese stood by and took pictures of Belgian in distress) and went with Belgians rescue party to Nangpa La. Rescue party of doctor Smets, Georges, De Sommer, Hoonaert, Morel and Thirtha Tamang and 8 Tibetans carried Van Praet on stretcher to Nangpa La at border with Nepal. Left ABC at 11:00 am on 17 May, arrived at Nangpa La at 1:30 pm and to 5300m at 4:00 pm on Nepalese side (site of base camps of teams who used to cross illegally to climb Cho Oyu) to wait for helicopter to land there. The Nepalese helicopter landed at 5300m at 8:30 or 9:00 am on 18 May and Van Praet and doctor flew to Kathmandu, where Van Praet was hospitalized until flight to Belgium was arranged.

  Only 11 [at the end] because Van Praet and Smets left by helicopter to Kathmandu, Louwagie left 24 April after getting cerebral edema and DeVolder, Rondas and Van Den Broek left 12 May after knowing they were not going to summit.

accidents:
  Louwagie cerebral edema at BC and never climbed; Boon's frostbitten fingers will heal; Van Praet cerebral hemorrhage


expid: CHOY00106
peakid: CHOY
year: 2000
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Jordi Tosas
sponsor: Caixa Catalonia Cho Oyu expedition
ascent1: 362
approach: Normal
bcdate: 2000-04-25
smtdate: 2000-05-17
smttime: 0845
termdate: 2000-05-21
campsites: BC(25/04,4800m),ABC(28/04,5600m),C1(03/05,6500m),C2(09/05,7100m),C3(16/05,7500m),Smt(17/05)
accidents: Tosas had frostbite on all ten toes.
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at Chinese Base
  ABC at normal spot
  C1  at normal spot
  C3  below Yellow Bank.

  Jordi Monterde left early on 30th April; he realized the climb was too difficult for him and so he went home.

  Summiters:
    Sonam Tashi, Khumjung, Cho Oyu 1998 reached the summit
    Chhong Ringee, Beding

  17 May all 3 climbers woke up at 1:00 am and began climbing at 2:00 am. They saw Everest from summit and they saw prayer flags also. It was a beautiful day.

  Jordi Tosas will not lose his toes, only much skin. He says his toes are purple and blistered. He came down to C2 to sleep after summit, he believes he frostbite his feet due to the bindings on his snowboard boots being too tight, so he lost circulation. He snowboarded all the snow, but would stop on the way down from the summit to wait for teammates. He went from C3 to C2 (17 May) in 10 minutes. He also snowboarded from the summit which he found very easy. He also snowboarded the couloir to the right of C1, which is to the left of the Messner route (on that same face) and said that was hard.

  Tosas used the Australian at ABC to help him wrap his feet and he rode a horse down from ABC to BC on 20 May. The doctor also gave him pain medication during this interview, his feet are all wrapped.

  Gabriel Balcells went above C3, but turned back due to cold feet
  Enric Casellas went to C1 only
  Ricard Mir went to C3 only


expid: CHOY00107
peakid: CHOY
year: 2000
route1: NW side
nation: Iran
leaders: Sadegh Aghajani Kalkhoran
ascent1: 351
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2000-04-07
smtdate: 2000-05-11
smttime: 1800
termdate: 2000-05-13
othersmts: Climbed Xixabangma (27 May by Mehdizadehagh, Oraz and Khadem)
campsites: BC(07/04,4900m),ABC(09/04,5600m),C1(19/04,6400m),C2(27/04,7100m),C3(01/05,7600m),Smt(11/05)
accidents: One member had kidney problem
achievment: 1st summit to Cho Oyu by Iranian
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Chinese BC
  C1 at normal spot
  C2 at normal spot
  C3 at normal spot.

  Three Sherpas and seven climbers started climbing from C3 at 6:30 am of 11th May. One Sherpa turned around from near the summit because he was very tired. Two Sherpas and seven climbers reached summit at 6 pm of 11th May. They spent 30 minutes on the top, took photographs, talked to BC on radio. It took half an hour to go to the real summit from the lower summit.

  The day they reached on the summit was very bad; windy and snowing.
  Summiters came back to C3 at 9 pm of 11th May.
  Met a Russian climber half an hour before.

  * Rope: In between C1 and C2, a few meters before C3 and after C3 and some places where there was special rope. Rope fixed by the Sherpas of this team and by Korean team.


  ** Ang Phurba Sherpa and Tarke Sherpa summited Cho Oyu along with the seven members. Had summited Cho Oyu 2 times and 3 times respectively (Ang Phurba 3 times and Tarke Sherpa 4 times including this summit).

  Slaughtered a yak at Chinese BC of Cho Oyu and slaughtered sheep at Chinese BC of Xixabangma. As leader mentioned, no one raised question and objection while and after they slaughtered the animals. Liaison officer and even Sherpa people helped and involved on this activity. 

  *** Xixabangma: Started climbing from C3 at 9:30 am of 27th May. Reached the summit at 4 pm of 27th. Came down to C3 at 7:30 pm of 27th May.


expid: CHOY00108
peakid: CHOY
year: 2000
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Craig John
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 354
bcdate: 2000-04-12
smtdate: 2000-05-13
smttime: 0945
termdate: 2000-05-18
campsites: BC(12/04),ABC(5600m),C1(26/04,6250m),C2(01/05,6850m),C3(12/05,7470m),Smt(13/05)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  13 May left C3 2:45 am and on top 9:45 am (saw Everest) in no wind and warm temperature.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Panuru (Phortse), 31 
    Tenzing Phinzo (Phortse), 47, Cho Oyu X3 before
    Dawa Nuru (Phortse), 22, Everest 25 May 98; Manaslu in 1997 with Japan
         not before to Cho Oyu top (brother of Panuru)
    Tashi Dorje (Pangboche), 1st 8000er 
    Phu Nuru (Phortse), 19, 1st 8000er (brother of Great Escapes Ang Temba)

  1. Cassidy left ABC 8 May - death of Russian and Finn killed interest in climb
  2. Kilpatrick left 21 Apr - did not got above ABC, not able to cope with
     such a big mountain
  3. Levine left 27 Apr - scheduled to go home then
  4. Meyers left 27 Apr - not going well
  5. Mikus left 8 May - not going well
  6. Procter left 27 Apr - stopped below C1, not able to cope


expid: CHOY00109
peakid: CHOY
year: 2000
route1: NW side
nation: Australia
leaders: Duncan Chessell
sponsor: Arun Treks International Cho Oyu Expedition 2000
ascent1: 357
countries: Finland, Italy
approach: Normal (drove through Zhangmu)
bcdate: 2000-04-26
smtdate: 2000-05-15
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2000-05-18
campsites: BC(26/04,4800m),ABC(26/04,5600m),C1(29/04,6400m),C2(08/05,7000m),C3(14/05,7500m),Smt(15/05)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  BC at Chinese
  C1 at normal spot.

  The three other members: Ari Piela went only went to C2 and was altitude sick; Loveto and Wiklund only went to C2. Gianni Loveto left BC early on 9th May, due to frostbite on fingers that he got above C1 on 1 May when he spent the night out above the ice cliff at 6700m. He spent the night there because it got dark and he was exhausted. He had a sleeping bag. Duncan Chessell found him there the next morning and helped him down to ABC. Chessell reports Loveto was "nuts", mentally crazy.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Pem Tenji Sherpa, Sotang, 1963, Dhaulagiri I 
    Pemba Nuru, Ghat, 17 Jan 70, 1st 8000er 

  On May 17 a Belgium man (Chessell did not know name) at 8:00 am the Belgium doctor diagnosed him with "cerebral hemorrhage" or with a stroke. The Belgium man was bleeding into his brain. (He could not even put boots on). The Belgium doctor put him on [Arun Trek's] oxygen and gave him medicine for a stroke (cortizone). The Belgium leader called on the satellite phone to get a helicopter to go the Nepal side of Nangpa La. The helicopter could not arrive until the 18th May. Chessell and a Sherpa (Tengi) went with Belgium team to carry the sick man to the border in a litter in the middle of the day on May 17th. They set up camp to wait for the helicopter the next morning. The sick Belgium man and doctor flew out on the morning of 18 May from Nangpa La at 11:00 am (Nepalese time).

  * This Belgium man was also having seizures, not long after he could no longer put on his boots around 8 or 9 pm (Chinese time).

  * Winter in Ama Dablam 2000 Nov-Dec will be coming also to Cho Oyu in Autumn.


expid: CHOY00110
peakid: CHOY
year: 2000
route1: NW side
nation: S Korea
leaders: Bae Hae-Dong
sponsor: Keimyung University Himalaya Expedition 2000
ascent1: 348
bcdate: 2000-04-08
smtdate: 2000-05-08
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2000-05-11
othersmts: Climbed Xixabangma (21 May by Ha, Jang and Gombu)
campsites: BC(08/04),ABC(12/04,5500m),C1(15/04,6200m),C2(20/04,7000m),C3(25/04,7400m),Smt(08/05)
accidents: Baek 2 fingers frostbite but will heal
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  Left C3 8 May at 5:00 am NST and on top: Ha and Gombu at 12:00 and Bae 12:35 pm. Other Korean team waited for this team to fix ropes and arrived top 2 hours later; only Koreans on top this day. On top cloudy and fog so didn't see Everest, etc., but Gombu knows where is highest top. Baek claimed top, also but not correct probably: Ha will see Baek's photos on return to KTM (Baek left mountains after Cho Oyu), but Ha and Gombu are sure his footprints show he went to a peak to the left (east) and not to true summit.


expid: CHOY00111
peakid: CHOY
year: 2000
route1: NW side
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lim Jong-Ha
sponsor: Konkuk University Alpine Club Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 349
bcdate: 2000-04-08
smtdate: 2000-05-08
smttime: 1700
termdate: 2000-05-09
campsites: BC(08/04,4500m),ABC(12/04,5600m),C1(18/04,6350m),C2(27/04,6670m),C3(30/04,7400m),Smt(08/05)
accidents: Park in hospital with altitude sickness (cerebral edema) about 7000m
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  BC at normal site.

  2 May An and Kim tried for top but wind sent them down after 2 days. Fixed rope for 70m on 1 May. 7 May ready to go to top but wind and clouds and 8 May able to go up: left C3 7:30 am and on top 5:00 pm: could not see through clouds but Gombu of Bae's expedition on top same time and he knows summit because he has been there 3 times before.

  * Ha of Bae's expedition says 29 May this summit party on top 2 hours after Bae's party.


expid: CHOY00112
peakid: CHOY
year: 2000
route1: NW side
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Tae-Wung
sponsor: Korean Tulbo Expedition
bcdate: 2000-04-08
smtdate: 2000-04-30
termdate: 2000-05-09
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to father worried about son's health above C3
achievment: Youngest S Korean climber over 7000m
agency: Explore Himalaya
campsites:
  BC(08/04,4500m-4700m),ABC(12/04,5700m),C1(17/04,6400m),C2(27/04,6900m),C3(30/04,7400m),xxx(30/04,7400m)

routememo:
  High point at C3.

  Returned ABC 3 May after climb stopped at C3 by leader out of concern for 13-year-old son's reaction to high altitude.

  This team arrived in Nepal with other two Korean Cho Oyu teams on 31 March and left Kathmandu for Tibet with them; stayed at Villa Everest.


expid: CHOY00113
peakid: CHOY
year: 2000
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Rick Wilcox
sponsor: International Mountain Climbing School (IMCS) Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 2000-04-13
smtdate: 2000-05-06
termdate: 2000-05-12
termnote: Abandoned at 7470m due to bad weather and lack of time
campsites: BC(13/04),ABC(16/04,5600m),C1(22/04,6400m),C2(05/05,7000m),C3(06/05,7470m),xxx(06/05)
accidents: Wood bronchitis, Hamlin lost vision (had glaucoma which was badly affected)
agency: High Sherpa Ambition
routememo:
  2 members left expedition 22 April and 1 on 30 April for no reason except apparently the mountain was not for them. Hamlin left 26 April because he could no longer see properly and Wood left from ABC on 21 April because bronchitis drained his strength.

  6 May night 70-80 mph winds ruined one tent. Down on 7th in high winds and sporadical white-out during descent to C2. Climb now finished with no time to mount another attempt. 3 members used oxygen sleeping in C3 in preparation for summit bid next day 7 May.


expid: CHOY00114
peakid: CHOY
year: 2000
route1: NW side
nation: Australia
leaders: Roger Grose
sponsor: Army Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 359,361
approach: Normal
bcdate: 2000-04-29
smtdate: 2000-05-16
smttime: 1000
campsites: BC(29/04,4800m),ABC(01/05,5600m),C1(06/05,6500m),C2(14/05,7100m),C3(15/05,7400m),Smt(16-17/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at Chinese BC
  ABC at normal spot 
  C2  at normal spot
  C3  at normal spot.

  The entire team made it to C3 on 15 May. Adam Scott was put on medical oxygen because of severe altitudes illness, he walked down to C2 on oxygen on 18 May. Once he got down to C2 Scott was fine. Matt Walton, Stuart Sugden, Matt Godbold and Bob Killip then went back down on 16 May. None of them were feeling good enough to climb. Michael McCourt and Allen Caldwell attempted the summit with Roger Grose and Laursen, but both turned back at 8000m due to exhaustion. Brian Laursen and Roger Grose did see Everest. And they saw pray flags, so did Shepley.

  Roger Grose is due back 25 May with four members Caldwell, Godbold, Brian Laursen and Stuart Sugden (the doctor who treated Tosas for his frostbitten toes).

  They are returning to Everest north side next spring.


expid: CHOY00115
peakid: CHOY
year: 2000
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Gregory Horne
sponsor: Horne Cho Oyu
countries: Canada, Japan
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2000-04-28
smtdate: 2000-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to heavy snowfall and high wind
campsites: BC(28/04,4850m),ABC(02/05,5700m),C1(11/05,6400m),C2(18/05,7100m),C3(21/05,7400m),xxx(21/05,7400m)
accidents: Hayashi head and altitude sickness
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  Horne and Ratliff carried load from C2 to C3 on 20th May and established C3 on 21st May where two climbers spent two nights. It started snowing from afternoon 22nd May and continued till the night and morning of 23rd May. Weather did not improve and it was some 18th thick fresh snow. So two climbers decided to go down.

  Paul Richins reached C2 and Yoshinobu Hayashi reached halfway between C1 and C2 (6700m), but had to turn around because of headache and altitude sickness.


expid: CHOY00116
peakid: CHOY
year: 2000
route1: NW side
nation: Brazil
leaders: Paulo Coelho
countries: Romania
bcdate: 2000-04-06
smtdate: 2000-05-02
termdate: 2000-05-08
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to bad weather and out of time
campsites: BC(06/04,4700m),ABC(10/04,5700m),C1(13/04,6400m),C2(28/04,7100m),xxx(02/05,7100m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at Chinese BC
  ABC at normal spot
  C2  was their highest camp
  High point at C2.

  Nima Sherpa went to C1 (he is from Tapting, Solukhumbu).

  These three foreigners climbed together as one expedition.


expid: CHOY00117
peakid: CHOY
year: 2000
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Takashi Koizumi
sponsor: Yeti Millenium Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 352,355,358
bcdate: 2000-04-18
smtdate: 2000-05-12
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2000-05-22
campsites: BC(18/04),ABC(21/04,5700m),C1(28/04,6400m),C2(01/05,7100m),C3(11/05,7400m),Smt(12,14,16/05)
accidents: Kagawa altitude sickness and left 26 April; no other serious problems
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Terayama skied from top to C3 with some interruptions; first Japanese to do so. Weather very good on their summit period and all on top saw Everest. Hirato oldest Japanese to top of Cho Oyu.

  Summiters on 12 May: 1 climber from another expedition, then Japanese party which topped 10:00-11:00 am NST.

  14 May - 9:00 am NST all Japanese party and no other expeditions.
  16 May - 8:00 am NST all Japanese party, all others 2-3 hours later if at all.


expid: CHOY83304
peakid: CHOY
year: 1983
route1: NW Ridge (Tichy rte)
nation: W Germany
leaders: Mischa Saleki
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to lack of fitness
campsites: BC,C1,C2(7100m),xxx(7100m)
routememo:
  This stateless man who was resident in West Germany (and said to be Iranian) claimed to have summited Cho Oyu in mid-November 1983 by the standard (Tichy) route after having illegally crossed the border from Nepal into Tibet by the Nangpa La. He later published a book about his summit success and in it were pictures attempting to prove it.

  But his claim was false. He reached a maximum altitude of about 7000-7100m as testified by a two-man German team, Rudi Klingl and Norbert Hertkorn, who had also come via the Nangpa La and were on the mountain at the same time. The Germans reached the top on 15 November. (Klingl returned to the summit again two days later.)

  The photos Saleki published were taken from a film produced by the two Germans.  They sued Saleki in a German court after they saw his book.


  Bergwelt (Feb 1986 issue) article by German's Rudi Klingl: "Saleki was in C2 at same time Germans was (15-18 Nov) but not fit enough to go to top with them. He never summited but stole their photos for book he wrote about his summit success."

  Messner: Saleki did not reach summit. Saleki took away their photos and claimed them as his own.


  Messner - 13 Feb 86

  1983-84 autumn: Saleki with two 20-year-old Munich people on Cho Oyu. Two West Germans to top (one twice) but not Saleki. Saleki took away their photos and claimed them as his own.

  Stammberger did not succeed [on Cho Oyu, Spring 64].



  Letter from Anders Bolinder - 5 March 1986

  One can now also be rather sure, that all higher shots in Saleki's book were made by the 2 young Germans. Thus, please now completely cross out the name of Mr Saleki on your list of Cho Oyu climbs and add the following 2 ones:

  1. 15 Nov 1983: Rudi Klingl and Norbert Hertkorn
  2. 17 Nov 1983: Rudi Klingl (alone)

  Mr Saleki reached C2 as higher point 7100m, he was "neither physical fit for more" Mr Klingl states. Also the movie strips made by Klingl got in the hands of Mr Saleki and were used by him to "price" his own ascents. I am afraid Mr Saleki can only be described as a swindler and an impostor. The whole swindle with the 2 young Germans was carefully planned and consequently carried out to deceive them. Saleki checked then concerning their photos and movie material by "helping" them with the "development." Then later saying to his giving "friends" that it meant that it became nothing "out of their material." Then suddenly his "own movie was ready." Saleki systematically tried to swindle everybody - obviously also his publisher. But slowly these 2 young Germans realized that Saleki had betrayed them, and now the whole matter has turned into a lawsuit. Saleki is also stated to be Armenian, living until 1963 in Budapest and then in West Germany, mainly in Frankfurt/Main. If from the Iranian or Russian part of Armenia is not clear, my wife and I however think Saleki is from the Turkish part of Armenia - he looks more Turkish than Iranian in any case. Of course Saleki also in 1978 or 1979, etc. never was on the top of Cho Oyu, or over anywhere higher up on the mountain.

  I have already since 1991 suspected that there was something rotten with the Cho Oyu story by Mr Saleki already then at that time and Mr Greuls report in "Alpine International" 2/1989 confirmed my suspicious attitude.

  Klingl's description of his ascent, twice in 1993, also confirms what I always have suspected Stammberger: he never got to the highest point of Cho Oyu, but only to the so called "Hillary Summit" with Phu Dorje.

  As there is a considerable distance from the summit plateau rim to the highest point. Stammberger waited there, at the the rim of the plateau, but the others never turned up. Thus at last Stammberger also descended to C4 and his strange behaviour thereafter is thus also fully explained. Waiting for another attempt from C4.


  Letter from Anders Bolinder - 19 August 86

  Concerning Cho Oyu and Mischa Saleki: He was never above 7000m as stated by Norbert Hertkorn and Rudi Klingl after the expedition 1983 Oct-Nov. See all details in "Bergwelt" 2/1986 by Klingl who was twice on the summit. I have all documentary proofs further from the father of Hertkorn. Saleki is a most ruthless impostor; by Herrligkoffer he is also stated to be "criminal" (after stealing equipment from other expedition members).

  The "Saleki Story" of traversing Cho Oyu in 1979 is of course all "invented" - in his book there are also no clear facts mentioned by Saleki. When actually is Armenian of Soviet-Russian origin, but via Iran later emigrated to Hungary and Western Germany.

  So we can completely leave Saleki's name out for anything connected with Cho Oyu. I have a whole bunch of documents about him from Mr Hertkorn, showing or proving his activities since many years. Please warn everybody in Nepal for him. This is the only thing I urge you to do. Now several lawsuits in West Germany are opened against Saleki, but as you know at least 10 Jews must be counted for every Armenian.


expid: CHOY99401
peakid: CHOY
year: 1999
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Joan Carrillo
approach: Thami->Nangpa La
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to death of climber
campsites: BC(5200m?),xxx(6600m)
agency: None
routememo:
  BC a t Nepalese side of Nangpa La
  ABC at Tibetan side of Nangpa La
  High point at foot of ice cliff.

  Carrillo intended to make his unauthorized climb with Cho Oyu veteran Ang Phurba Sherpa of Thami, but he was in Japan, so Carrillo climbed alone although he is known to have modest climbing ability and perhaps no Himalayan experience. He hired young man from Thami named Tendu to carry his scant supplies with him to BC. They erected one small tent and Carrillo went off to the mountain. After 2-3 days he returned to BC because snowfall made climbing dangerous and they did not have enough food to stay much longer. Carrillo said he did not want to go back down but Tendu must do so and Carrillo would return to the climb and leave the mountain after a few days. He never was seen again alive, but what is very probably his body was seen by spring 2000 expeditions. James Norton of one of them went to this body, which had partly been covered by Korean's Sherpas who didn't want to have to look at it. The body was lying on its face straight out in the position of one who had fallen there; his crampons were placed beside him as if he had taken them off and set them there; his shoulders were covered by a jacket/one piece suit which was red or pink and not yet faded, which colors normally do within six months on Himalayan mountains.

  * Source of above information Tendu Sherpa (Thami) to Ang Phurba Sherpa
    and wife (they own a lodge in Thami)
    James Norton


  Craig John's Team - 20 May 2000

  "Jake went to body - boots very new & camp plastic purple; clothing had not faded at all."


  The Family Carrillo, by Miss Hawley - 28 January, 2000 

  I have met Ang Phurba and his wife. He was in Japan from 16 Sept to 12 December, so he knows nothing about Mr. Carrillo, but his wife remembers a foreigner with a porter who brought him and two drums to their Thami View Lodge. He asked to meet Ang  Phurba. The foreigner was not very tall and spoke little English (he did not talk to anyone); she does not remember the color of his hair but said it was long. She does not remember whether he had a beard nor the date but says it was when she was very busy: Ang Phurba thinks it was probably in or soon after late October.

  This foreigner stayed at their lodge for two nights, and said he was going to go to climb Cho Oyu. He left Thami with a Sherpa from that village and a yak to carry his two drums. This Sherpa, named Tendu, was not a climber and would stay only at base camp. Tendu returned to Thami alone after about six days and told Ang Phurba's wife that he and the foreigner reached their base camp site the day they had left Thami; it was near the Nangpa La on the Nepalese side. The weather was bad, snow was falling -- but the foreigner left Tendu at base camp and went up to climb because of the weather. Tendu now told him that they should go back to Thami because the bad weather was making climbing dangerous, and they did not have enough food to stay much longer. The foreigner answered that he did not want to go back, but Tendu must go back; the foreigner would go back after a few days.

  Tendu left the foreigner at base camp and reported this to Ang Phurba's wife. She had not seen him again, and she remained in Thami until 29 November, whe she left to come to Kathmandu.


expid: CHOP84301
peakid: CHOP
year: 1984
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Nil Bohigas Martorell
ascent1: 1st claimed
approach: Makalu BC->Barun Glacier
bcdate: 1984-11-01
smtdate: 1984-11-01
termdate: 1984-11-02
campsites: BC-Smt(01/11)
routememo:
  Fax as written to Liz Hawley 1999:

  I am sending you directly the information that Jose Luis Mendieta of Desnivel Magazine requested me.

  First of all, I would like to congratulate you on your professional skills and good sources of information because until not too long time ago, just my friends knowed my ascent to Penthangtse and to Cho Polu in 1984. 

  I did not get to know these ascents, as well as other ones that I did at the same period, because I did them without permission.

  The main reason was the crossing-trekking through the Arun and Khumbu's Valleys from Tumlingtar to Jiri, crossing the Sherpani Col, the West Col and the Amphu Labsta. I did the trekking after the ascent in alpine-style to Annapurna South Face with Enric Lucas. I felt perfectly acclimatized to the altitude as well as Montse Soteras who went with me in this fantastic crossing. I have to say that Montse had not any experience in alpinism nor in ice climbing, therefore I think that her activity was still more "unbelievable" than mine.

  We went alone and we had just a little quantity of material: a tent, sleeping bags and my climbing equipment composed by ice-axes and a pair of crampons. We did not carry ropes. I climbed several summits during the crossing but I did not plan them before, even I did not give them to much importance. The reason that we carried so little climbing equipment was because we were really badly informed.

  The Cols crossing has a great technical difficulty and it requires a team well equipped to be successful. We were really lucky to complete it. We could not climb on the Sherpani Col 6110m rocky section; therefore we climbed on the icy slopes placed on its left (very much more difficul than Pethangtse South Face). We risked a lot (we shared my ice axes and crampons). On the Amphu Labtsa, 5870m, we found miraculously a part of the descent equipped with ropes which an expedition had abandoned on it without which would have been impossible to descend.

  I took the decision of climbing these mountains during the crossing because we passed nearby and I thought I could achieved it due the good condition of snow. I always thought that someone had climbed that peaks before me. I have not detailed information because I did not keep notes about this crossing-trekking.

  I made the bivouac on the moraine at 6000m high where I left the material. I went out all night and summited Pethangtse before the sunrise. I made very quickly the ascent by the area of the South Face and the descent by the SW Ridge because there are not great technical difficulties. I found the main difficulties on the North Face of Cho Polu's first section, especially on the descent. I reached the summit by the NE Ridge. I descended by the same route and I reached the glacier at night.

  I cannot recall the schedules (15 years ago) but I did not take more than 16 hours in total. Three days later I soloed the Baruntse 7220m by SE Ridge and I left it by the West Col 6315m in 4 hours and 2:30 hours of descent. I went very quick and the conditions could not be better.

  I can only give this in information at the moment. Today I am taking one week holidays but when I am coming back I will try to look for more information.

  Nil Bohigas 1984 autumn season summit ascents:

  ? September 1984 - Tarphu Chuli 5663m (with Enric Lucas)
  ? September 1984 - Flutted Peak 6501m. Ascent North Face, descent East
                     (solo - 1st asc?)
  3 October   1984 - Annapurna 8601m South Face
  ? End Oct/First Nov 1984 - Pethangtse 6710m S Face/SW Ridge - Cho Polu 6
  ? End Oct/first Nov 1984 - Baruntse 7200m SE Ridge (solo)


expid: DHA100101
peakid: DHA1
year: 2000
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Peter Stadler
sponsor: DAV Summit Club Dhaulagiri Expedition
countries: Germany
bcdate: 2000-04-16
smtdate: 2000-05-11
termdate: 2000-05-16
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to lack of time
campsites: BC(16/04,4700m),C1(26/04,5700m),C2(01/05,6400m),C3(05/05,7050m),xxx(11/05,7600m)
accidents: Stadler throat infection (not very serious)
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  High point at 50m down right side of NE Ridge.

  Took time to find safe route to C1 because of exposure to avalanches from a lot of snowfall and crevasses. 6 May 1st attempt from C3 for summit by Arnold and Holdener; reached about 7300m on best day for summit but too tired to continue up and slept in C1 same night. 6th May big new snowfall and more light snowfall every day after. In the 30 days at or above BC, only 2 days no snowfall at all. On 11 May Arnold and Holdener up from C3 again, this time to 7600m and then snow too deep (waist-level) to continue; down to C2 and 12th to BC.


expid: DHA100102
peakid: DHA1
year: 2000
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Hajo Netzer
sponsor: Amical Alpin Dhaulagiri I Expedition 2000
countries: Spain, USA
approach: Bus->Pokhara->Beni, then Beni->BC
bcdate: 2000-04-19
smtdate: 2000-05-12
termdate: 2000-05-16
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to bad weather, deep snow
campsites: BC(19/04,4700m),C1(26/04,5700m),C2(01/05,6450m),C3(11-12/05,7050m),xxx(12/05,7800m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  3 members went to 7800m (about at the ridge) - Hajo Netzer, Jay Sieger, Klaus-Dieter Grohs.
   
  3 Sherpas above BC:
    Tsuldum Sherpa, Khumjung
    Na Temba Sherpa, Makalu Area
    Ngi Tenzing Sherpa, Makalu Area

  Philip Kunz and Juan Carlos Chamoso were the only 2 members to not to go to C1. Hajo reports very deep snow that took hours to break a trail through.


expid: EVER00111
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Vernon Tejas
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Everest Expedition 2000
ascent1: 364
countries: Canada
bcdate: 2000-04-14
smtdate: 2000-05-23
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2000-05-26
campsites: BC(14/04),C1(21/04,6100m),C2(23/04,6445m),C3(03/05,7055m),C4(21/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in West Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  22 May up from C4 at 10:00 pm (in good moonlight from about 11:00 pm) by Prittie, Hanna, Tejas and 7 Sherpas. Hanna and others got to South Summit and decided too tired and cautious to be sure to got back to C4 at 3:00-3:30 pm in brisk wind 84 km wind. 3 Sherpas went on to top about 11:00-11:30 am and returned to C4 about same time as members. Now expedition finished with weather not looking favorable.

  In spring 2000, Tshering Dorje from Kharikhola claimed he summited with this team, but sirdar Lhakpa Rita said on 31 Aug 2001 Tshering Dorje did not.


expid: EVER00156
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Thomas Laemmle
sponsor: German/Austrian Scientific Expedition
countries: Austria
bcdate: 2000-04-22
smtdate: 2000-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 8500m due to thunderstorm and no time to try again
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(22/04,5180m),ABC(26/04,6400m),C1(02/05,7000m),C2(10/05,7800m),C3(25/05,8300m),xxx(25/05,8500m)
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  Laemmle started from North Col at about 2:30 am of 25th for C3 in order to take down the stuff from there because the yaks were supposed to arrive at ABC on 25th or the 26th of May. When he reached C3 weather was good and he thought like to go beyond C3, and he enjoyed going above C3. When he reached 8500m at about 2.30 pm, thunderstorm came from Pumori and had to turn around. He came back to ABC at 7:30 pm of 25th.

  All other members including expedition doctor reached C2; Sherpas reached C3.


expid: EVER00101
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Andrew Lock
sponsor: Jagged Globe Everest Expedition 2000
ascent1: 365
countries: Australia, UK
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2000-04-07
smtdate: 2000-05-24
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2000-05-26
campsites: BC(07/04,5300m),C2(23/04,6450m),C3(01/05,7200m),C4(23/05),Smt(24/05)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal spots
  C1 at normal spots
  C2 at normal spots
  C3 at normal spots.

  Made summit attempt on 15 May, turned back due to deep snow and ran out of rope to fix. Lock, Giorgio and Nima Gombu (his 6th summit of Everest), left high camp at 10:30 pm and reached the summit at 6:30 am, very windy and cloudy day. Almost had to turn back due to wind, but carried on.

  Curt Peterson: twisted his ankle and walked out around 16 April.
  Jack Culley: left due to a lung infection on 24 April.
  Jeff Magee: left on 4 May due to mild frostbite on his fingers while climbing to C3.
  Tim Bird: Torn muscles due to a hacking cough and he left 11 May (tore rib muscles).
  Tim Gregg: left on 11 May, realized he would not be able to summit, not strong
    enough and he went home.
  David Spencer and Jo Wolfgruber: left the mountain 18 May; they were on the first
    summit attempt on 14 May and did not have the strength to go back up.

  * Lock summited with Boskoff.


  Email from Andrew Lock - May 18, 2000

  Five members of the group reached the South Summit at around 8750m on 15 May but turned back due to unsafe conditions.

  Having climbed to C2, we joined together with 4 other teams to give ourselves the best summit chance. No other groups appeared interested in making attempts on the mountain at the time but the forecast was excellent, so we pushed to C3 on the 13th and C4 on the 14th.

  With a clear night, Paul, David, Nima Ghombu Sherpa and Tsillen Sherpa and Andrew, set out at 11 pm and made the seemingly endless climb to the Balcony at 8500m by headlamp. We reached that point just as the dawn broke and revealed the incredible sight of Lhotse, Nuptse, Makalu and numerous smaller peaks surrounding us in Nepal and Tibet.

  Joe had decided not to continue to the summit but rather to attain his personal goal of 8000m and during the morning of the 15th with Nima Tshering Sherpa, he climbed to 8200m just to be sure.

  The remainder of the team climbed on towards the South Summit with a combined group of Sherpas fixing rope above. We reached the south summit about 9 am. From here the ridge crossed the famous Hillary Step and ascended the final slopes to the summit, however the hard ice of the ridge was found to be covered in soft snow which made for dangerous climbing.

  It had been intended to safeguard this part wih rope but we were disappointed to find that the remaining rope had not been brought up as agreed by another team's climber. To climb on without fixing this section was too risky, so we were obliged to turn back for C4. All descended safely to basecamp on 17 May.

  Reaching the South Summit was a fantastic achievement for the team members, as was Joe's personal goal of reaching 8000m at 61 years of age. This was his seventh peak of the "Seven Summits."

  Dave and Joe will be heading for home on May 20, well satisfied with their efforts. However the expedition is not over yet. Although recovering in basecamp at the moment. Andrew and Paul intend to re-ascend soon for a final summit attempt.


  Email from Andrew Lock - April 26, 2000

  In the last week we've had plenty of activity and a few exciting incidents. All expedition members and staff are well. On Thursday 20th April, the team was saddened to farewell one of our members, Jack Culley, who had decided to depart for home. Jack was a valued team member and we wish him an enjoyable and safe trip home. On the same day, the majority of the team headed up to C1, enroute to C3 for an acclimatization trip. The plan was to move on Friday to C2, rest for a day and then make the long climb to C3 for a taste of thin air. Deputy leader Tim Bird led the group C1, whilst expedition leader Andrew Lock stayed in base camp to facilitate Jack's departure.

  On Friday 21st, the team trekked from C1, up the magnificent Western Cwm, surrounded by the towering walls of Nuptse, Lhotse and of course Everest to establish C2 at the foot of Everest's steep southwest face. Andrew joined the team by climbing direct from base camp to C2.

  An acclimatisation day at C2 was much appreciated by all, as were the continual hot drinks and meals served up by our Sherpa cooks, Ghombu and Mingma. Watching them melt chunks of ice from the surrounding seracs, one ponders the age of the liquid we are drinking. C2 serves the purpose of an advance base camp and so is well stocked for prolonged stays by the expeditioners.

  Easter Sunday saw the whole team, leader, members and four Sherpas make a 5:30 am departure for the Lhotse face, the intention being to climb that day to C3 around 7300m. Strong winds and low temperatures took the fun out of the hour long journey to the base of the face. This year the Lhotse face is bare of snow and the climb to C3 is made over the exposed hard ice.

  Almost immediately, the mountain reminded us all of the potential dangers of climbing these big peaks. One of the team was only a short distance up the ropes when an anchor pulled and he slid over 10 metres down the ice. His fall was arrested by the snow at the base and two of our Sherpa team who were well positioned to assist. Whilst a nasty scare was the he worst injury, we were faced with the need to re-fix the ropes on the lowest section of the face.

  The team returned to C2, to organise the rope and ice equipment for the following day. As luck would have it, the weather deteriorated that night and saw a heavy dump of snow. We decided to descend to base camp to allow the avalanche danger to pass and to rest for a couple of days in the thicker air.

  The weather remains a little fickle but the team are enjoying the base camp services of emails from home and opportunity for a hot wash. The team are in good health and anxious to continue the climb.


  Email from Henry Todd - 4 May 2000

  Well its Thursday, 4 May and the Jagged Globe team are all safely back in base camp after a successful acclimatization climb to C3.

  On April 28th, we set out at 5 am for the climb to C2. The trip through the icefall is quicker each time, as we acclimatise and become more familiar with the route. Still its no place to hang around and Camp 1 is a welcome place to stop and rest for a while.

  We prefer now to climb direct to C2, as the energy expended in collecting and melting snow, cooking meals, etc. at camp 1, is greater than pushing on to the higher camp. Our advance base Sherpa staff occupies camp 2 throughout the expedition, so its well maintained.

  We took a rest day on Saturday, to recover from the one vertical km climb from base. Sunday dawned fine and not too windy, so we headed off at 6 am for our second attempt on Lhotse Face. The long slog up the final section of the Western Cwm saw the team spread out below the imposing ice wall.

  Once onto the Lhotse Face, the ropes were found to be in good condition and the slope less threatening than rumour had predicted. The ice was hard but our crampons gripped well and we made slow but consistent progress up the face. The first members arrived about 11:30 am and spent the afternoon cutting ice for the stoves and digging out buried tents.

  The thin air and cold early morning wind took its toll on the team and the final members didn't arrive until 6 pm. A fairly sleepless night was endured, during which the winds strengthened until by dawn the tents being buffeted continously, We waited for the sun, then descended quickly to the cwm and back to C2. The following morning the climbers descended to base.

  Our Sherpas remained in C2, to await an opportunity to ferry some loads to the South Col. This is where our C4 will be located. Having completed their load carries the Sherpas will descend for a rest at base camp, prior to the whole team ascending for the summit attempt.

  Whilst we wait for them, the team has an opportunity to rest ad regain strength for the big push. Tim B and Joe will head down to one of the local villages to spend a couple of days in the thicker air. Paul and Tim G prefer to remain in base camp. Andrew will also stay to liaise with the Sherpas and to watch the weather for the best summit opportunity.

  Sadly, Jeff has chosen to depart the expedition, as he suffered some minor frostbite to his fingers on the climb to C3 and with medical advice feels that the risk of serious injury would be too great if he continued the climb. The injury should heal quickly back at home and he will depart today for Kathmandu.


expid: EVER00102
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Simone Moro
ascent1: 367
countries: Kazakhstan
bcdate: 2000-04-12
smtdate: 2000-05-24
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2000-05-27
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),C1(14/04,6500m),C2(20/04,7900m),Smt(24/05)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at West Cwm
  C2 at Lhotse Face
  C3 at South Col.

  28th April both up from C2 and to 7000m and down because stormy weather, so same day to BC and next day to Deboche village. Returned to BC 5 May and up from BC 6th May to C1 and 7th May to C2 site to find tent left there, but couldn't find it made snow and down to BC. Now decide to climb Everest without camp on face because cwm and col safe. 10 May Urubko to C1 and 11 May went to Lhotse face campsite where had left much gear but still not found and down to C1 where Moro arrived that day. 12 May both went to Col and established camp. Went without sleeping bags because loads heavy and not good acclimatization. 13 May to BC and 14th to Deboche. 19 May again at BC and 20th from BC to C1. 21st to South Col there slept soundly. 23rd up to 8050m and there Moro vomiting from bad food, back to Col again. 11:30 pm of 23rd up from Col and for first time Moro only used oxygen from American expedition and 24th 8:00 am Urubko on top and Moro at 9:00 am (had to pull himself up ropes because his jummar did not fit other's fixed ropes). Returned to Col that day passing 10 climbers exhausted in ascent attempt, sitting/lying in snow unable to moves and asking please "please help me." Moro took off oxygen mask which he didn't like. Slept again for the 4th night at Col and next day to BC.

  23rd decided not to try for Lhotse because Moro had been sick.

  Moro used oxygen on Everest because he had been sick; Urubko did not use oxygen.


expid: EVER00103
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Carlos Soria
sponsor: Everest 2000
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2000-04-05
smtdate: 2000-05-21
termdate: 2000-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to wind, shortage of food and oxygen
campsites: BC(05/04,5340m),C1(07/04,6100m),C2(12/04,6400m),C3(22/04,7340m),C4(20/05,7950m),xxx(21/05,8300m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  High point at North Ridge.

  April 07-11 at C1, April 12 to C2, then down to BC. April 19 to C3, 20th to C4, started for summit at 23:20 hours - reached up 8300m on 21st at about 02:00 hours, then C4. Second attempt on 22nd reached up to 8200m.

  Leaves Nepal probably on May 30.

  (Language problem, Prof. Zachary was present at the time of meeting).


expid: EVER00104
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Gavin Bate
sponsor: Sagarmatha Millenium Expedition 2000
ascent1: 337
bcdate: 2000-03-30
smtdate: 2000-05-16
smttime: 1040
campsites: BC(30/03),C1(07/04,5950m),C2(15/04,6400m),C3(14/05,7000m),C4(15/05,7950m),Smt(16/05)
accidents: Bristow got clot in leg and was evacuated to KTM
agency: High Country Trekking
routememo:
  C3 at Lhotse Face
  C3 at South Col.

  Bate to South Summit and turned back because not going fast enough (cough, 1 Sherpa turned back at Balcony, so less oxygen available). Left C2 at 10:00 pm on 15 May, at South Summit 7:30-8:00 am and summiters on top 10:40 am. Only people to top on 16 May. Spent night at C4. 17 May to C2 and 18 May to BC.

  Michelle Santilhano left team 13 May - difficult person and when got only to C3, blamed others (personality conflict, she thought), rather than her own inability to go higher. Came to KTM where she "bad mouthed" Bate and their Sherpas. She tried to join other expeditions (such as Christine Boskoff's), but did not succeed. LO told Ministry not to permit her to go higher and she returned to South Africa.

  Bate is in midst of attempting all the Seven Summits in 12 months. Aconcagua climbed in Jan 2000, Everest tried 16 May 2000, McKinley early June, Kilimanjaro in July, Elbrus in July, Carstensz in September and Vinson in Nov.


expid: EVER00105
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Manuel Gonzalez
sponsor: Expedition Andalucia Everest 2000
ascent1: 361
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2000-03-24
smtdate: 2000-05-22
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2000-05-28
campsites: BC(24/03,5350m),C1(02/04,6100m),C2(11/04,6400m),C3(25/04,7300m),C4(20/05,7986m),Smt(22/05)
accidents: Dr Ortega broken leg
agency: Himalayan Culture Treks
routememo:
  C1 on April 2 where Ms Fernandez, Garra and Ortega spent night. Between 11th carried loads to C2. Gonzalez, Jara and Salazar spent night on 11th. Fernandez-Vivancos, Ms Fernandez, Garra, Millan, Ortega and Perez spent night at C2. On 25th Fernandez-Vivancos and Salazar spent night at C3. Garra, Millan and Ortega joined on 26th and on 27th Ms Fernandez, Gonzalez, Jara and Perez down to BC.

  C4 on May 20.

  First attempt: May 10 by Fernandez-Vivancos, Garra, Gonzalez, Jara and Salazar from C2 at 05:30 hours; returned to C2 about 16:00 hours due to bad weather.

  Second: May 20 from C4 at 22:30 hours by Fernandez-Vivancos, Garra, Gonzalez, Jara, Millan and Salazar; up to 8200m strong wind and snow, so down to C4.

  Third: May 21 from C4 at 23:00 by Garra, Gonzalez and Jara to summit between 09:00-09:30 hours on 22nd; spent night at C4.

  Leave Nepal June 8.
  (Leader Gonzalez was sick with diarrhea, so could not come to talk in KTM)

  Dr Ortega broke her leg while team was in Pangboche on May 1; she was flown by helicopter from Lukla on May 2. Had it operated at B&B and left Nepal on May 6 or 7.

  Ms Fernandez left BC on 19 May due to weakness. She went up to C3. At the time of this meeting she was in Pokhara.


expid: EVER00106
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Antoni Bahi
sponsor: Expedition to Everest 2000
ascent1: 338
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2000-04-03
smtdate: 2000-05-16
smttime: 1049
termdate: 2000-05-26
campsites: BC(03/04,5300m),C1(07/04,6000m),C2(08/04,6400m),C3(18/04,7300m),C4(13/05,8000m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Sherpas:
    Thomting, from Rowaling - second ascent of Everest 
    Nima Nuru, from Thame - this is his first summit

  Antoni Mata only stayed at base camp. 

  Bayona and Belmonte left South Col at 10:30 pm and they reached the top at 10:49 am. They spent 1 hour on the summit. It was a beautiful warm day they said. They made it back to the South Col at 3:30 pm.

  On May 23rd Jordi Bonet attempted the summit without oxygen but only reached the South Summit and turned back due to exhaustion.


expid: EVER00107
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: S Pillar-SE Ridge
nation: Denmark
leaders: Henrik Hansen
sponsor: Thrane and Thrane Danish Everest Expedition 2000
ascent1: 355,358
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2000-04-10
smtdate: 2000-05-20
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2000-05-24
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East in April
campsites: BC(10/04,5370m),C1(14/04,6020m),C2(16/04,6450m),C3(04/05,7400m),C4(18/05,8100m),Smt(20-21/05)
accidents: Hansen bronchitis
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  C2 on SW Face next to pillar.

  C1 and C2 were already established by Sherpas before the arrival of team. April 14 Christensen, Granlien, Mathone, and Norreslet spent night in C1; on 15th Lopez joined them. April 16 Christensen, Gebelli, Lopez and Maixe spent night in C2. On 17 one member to BC.

  Between April 16-May 4 route making between C2->C3. On 4 May Christensen, Gebelli and Lopez spent night in C3. On 5th all went down to BC and Lopez spent night in C2. On 13th Christensen spent night in C3. On 18th, 19th, 20th A Christensen, B Christensen, Granlien, Mathone, Norreslet and 4 Sherpas spent nights in C4 (two tents). 

  On 19th at 10:30 pm Granlien, Norreslet and 2 Sherpas left C4, summited at 6:30 am of 20th, returned to C2 about 5 pm.

  On the 20th night A Christensen without oxygen, B Christensen and Mathone with Nima and Angchi approached towards summit. B Christensen returned to BC. Mathone reached to South Summit about 08:00 am and returned due to high wind. A Christensen returned from 8750m to C4. Nima Dawa got to summit.

  Member A Christensen probably the first Dane to reach 8700m without oxygen.

  Leader/expedition doctor suffered from bronchitis and some fever. He was under medication for whole of last month. Leader expressed satisfaction not only having team summit but doing some climbing on Everest.

  Thrane, the sponsor, arrived on April 20 but had to return from Thyangboche. Left Nepal first week of May, due to urgent business matter.


expid: EVER00108
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Israel
leaders: Gdaliahu Shtirmer
bcdate: 2000-04-02
smtdate: 2000-05-21
termdate: 2000-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 8750m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(02/04,5300m),C1(06/04),C2(07/04,C3(17/04,7300m),C4(20/05,8000m),xxx(21/05,8750m)
agency: Nomad Expeditions
routememo:
  BC at usual site.

  C1 one night April 6, C2 three nights April 7-10, then down to BC. After ten days to C3 on 17th and down to BC.

  May 18 C1 spent night, 19th C2, 20th C4, on 21st to South Summit, back to C4.

  He considered himself as part of Babu Chiri team. He said the route was opened by Babu for all the expeditions.


expid: EVER00109
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: S Couloir
nation: Spain
leaders: Joan Tomas Gebelli
sponsor: Tarragona Expedition
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2000-04-02
smtdate: 2000-05-20
termdate: 2000-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 8740m due to running of time, too late in the day
campsites: BC(02/04,5400m),C1(06/04,6200m),C2(11/04,6500m),C3(05/05,7500m),C4(18/05,8100m),xxx(20/05,8740m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal spots
  C1 at normal spots
  C2 at normal spots
  C3 at normal spots
  High point "in couloir" below South Summit.

  They woke up early and began walking at 12:00 am. The route was very steep the whole way 35 to 50 degree slopes, after 11:00 pm the wind picked up to 30 miles per hour and clouds moved in. Three members reached high camp: Jacob Salvado, Jaume Carrosset and Xavier Aymar. Salvado reached 8600m and said he "had enough." Jaume Carrosset reached 8200m and turned back also.

  Juan Borreguero stayed only at base camp.

  Team climbed a couloir on the right side of the South Pillar.

accidents:
  Xavier Aymar snowblinded after summit attempt (helped down by team on oxygen to lower camps, after 2 days he could see)


expid: EVER00110
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Anna Czerwinska
ascent1: 362
bcdate: 2000-04-05
smtdate: 2000-05-22
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2000-05-27
campsites: BC(05/04,5350m),C1(11/04,6100m),C2(16/04,6500m),C3(01/05,7400m),C4(20/05),Smt(22/05)
accidents: Nothing serious but Anna slipped during descent when briefly fell asleep
achievment: Oldest woman to top
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal place
  C1 at normal
  C2 at West Cwm (normal)
  C3 at normal 
  C4 at South Col,

  After marking C3 went down for rest at Dingboche after much snow, leaving BC 8 May. Back to BC 12 May and returned to C3 19 May. 20 May at C4 and stayed 21st because of wind and had to wait for one tent for Sherpa came up from below. 21 May left C4 for top at 11:00 pm by Anna and Pasang Tshering (from Thami, not atop Everest before but doesn't know about other 8000ers) with 2 bottles being carried by Anna and Pasang carrying 3 (2 for him and 1 more for Anna). Pasang slower because having trouble with oxygen and not so strong, but Anna going very well, but here 2nd oxygen bottle almost finished (1st not full). Reduced flow from 2 liters/min to 1/2 litres "and I run" for top where she arrived at 10:00 am exactly, ahead [of Pasang]. Weather not clear from snowfall and could see only North Ridge from there. "I was very happy to be on Hillary Step alone, had heard it would be very crowded." Got half bottle from Pasang and it was finished at balcony. Reached South Col 6:30 pm, very later waiting for Pasang then went slowly and Anna and Pasang reached Col together last 200m Anna found in descent. 23 May slept in C3 to be comfortable in descent, 24 May to C2 and BC on 25 May. When reached top first thought of her mother who had died on 12 May (Anna heard about 14 May) and who had wanted Anna to climb. Felt happy only when returned to C2 and no longer have to concentrate on climbing. Now had done all of "the seven summits" and finally summited Everest which had tried to do from North in '97, 98, 99 where had simply had had bad luck.

  Pasang Tshering (not Chirri), 27/2/73, Thami, 1st 8000er


expid: EVER00112
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Babu Tsering (Babu Chiri)
sponsor: Speed Climb of Everest
ascent1: 357
bcdate: 2000-04-03
smtdate: 2000-05-21
smttime: 0956
termdate: 2000-05-25
campsites: BC(03/04,5350m),C2(12/04,6300m),C3(7300m),C4(06/05,7900m),Smt(21/05)
achievment: Speed climb - fastest ascent from BC to top (16 hrs 56 min)
agency: Nomad Expeditions
routememo:
  C2 in West Cwm
  C3 at pitched for clients of Nomads expedition
  C4 at South Col.

  Tried for top with his trekking agency's client Rodriguez. Started from Col with 4 other Sherpas at 9:30 6 May and reached 8500m at 3:00 am having fixed 700m rope there, but snowing and cloudy and couldn't see our way, so back to Col and C2 same day.

  Next time Babu tried for top was his expedition's climb: left BC 20 May at 5:00 pm, stopped in C2 at 8:10 pm for 40 minutes for drinking tea and changed clothes because damp from sweat from non-stop fast climb. Again up and had to break fresh trail through ankle-deep new snow from Geneva Spur to Col and reached C4 2:30 am after losing time breaking trail. Stopped in C4 for 35 minutes for tea and porridge and put on down suit and left Col at 3:00 am and with Dawa and Nima Dorje (who turned back from South Summit while Babu and Dawa went up together to top). At balcony at 8500m at about 5:00 am "so tired and going very slow," so Babu took over half-full oxygen bottle Dawa was carrying as extra and his extra regulator and used it to top (at South Summit it was finished). Stayed 10-15 minutes at top (where left his orange banner found on 28 May by Russian Voldine from north side who brought it back and taken to Moscow museum) and took photos with Sherpas from Arun trekkings Danish team. Down to South Col in new snowfall and windy and got snowblinded that night in South Col, so used oxygen that night hoping pain would go down (but did not). Started down at 8:00 am, but which time vision restored. Slept in C2 and BC next day, 23 May at 8:00 am. "Lot of people came to welcome and western people had movie cameras." 

  If got good sponsor will go again, but don't know now what special project, but not speed climb. If had really good weather and not to have to lose 2 hours breaking trail, could have done climb in less than 15 hours. "This kind of weather I have never seen before in spring" with so much snow since first time on mountain in 1990.

  Had wanted to leave BC for speed ascent at 4:00 pm but had to wait an hour because it was snowing at 4:00 pm, so started at 5:00 pm instead and reached summit at 9:56 am on 21 May for total elapsed time of 16 hours 56 minutes. His brother Dawa had arrived at South Col on 20 May.

  Babu climbed all the time on his own permit, although HMG granted it formally only after he had been on mountain for some weeks. Head of mountaineering section in Ministry of Tourism said he could start before permit issued. Ministry of Tourism first announced his climb took 15 hours 56 minutes, but he corrected this to 16 hours 56 minutes and ministry announced his correction.

  * Babu is part owner of Nomad Expeditions: their climbers were Hugo Rodgriguez (Mexican), Gdaliahu Shtirmer (Israeli) and Gabrid Filippi who were on permit of British team lead by Gavin Bate. Babu climbed independently as one-man team.

  * 2 Sherpas in and above South Col. Simone Moro said he saw Babu use oxygen in C4 before summiting).


expid: EVER00113
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Bhakta Bahadur Thakuri
bcdate: 2000-04-19
smtdate: 2000-05-21
termdate: 2000-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 8826m due to Temba Chhiri's frostbitten fingers
campsites: BC(19/04,5350m),C1(30/04,6100m),C2(05/05,6400m),C3(12/05,7300m),C4(19/05,7900m),xxx(21/05,8826m)
accidents: Temba frostbitten finger; Mingma altitude sickness and legs not good
achievment: Youngest person to 8000m
agency: Sita Chuchura Treks
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse face
  C4 at South Col
  High point at bottom of Hillary Step.

  Members had to do much of their load carrying because not enough Sherpas, so slow to move up to occupy camps. Summit bid from C4 started 20 May 10:45 pm: Temba, Ram Krishna Shrestha and Dangima in summit party. Phurba Thile who turned back after midnight, Dangima to 8826m on Hillary Step and Temba about to this height: Temba fingers could not bend (one finger later improved) because of frostbite, which had started on 20 May at South Col when he took off his gloves for 2-3 minutes while fitting crampon on his boots at about 10:00 pm. At same time Dangima becoming snowblind after taking off goggles because couldn't see well with wind blowing snow. 2 people on top from 8826m and when Ram Krishna reached top they had gone down; he met them on Hillary Step when they giving down and RK going up; RK asked Babu Chiri to return to summit and takes photo of him, but Babu too tired and did not agree. On top could not see clearly. Put down automatic camera to take photo of him holding his banner saying "Newar Nepal" and only blowing snow. In big hurry go down and doesn't remember other items there. Down alone to South Summit where Temba and Dangima waiting for him and three down together with Chiri and Dawa from South Summit to balcony, where this team's to South Col 5:30-6:00 pm and slept there (Dangima sleepless night with snowblindness). C2 on 22 May, BC on 23 May.

  Bad management: not enough money: San Miguel Beer gave 2,00,000, RK got Rs 2,00,000 from KTM municipality and Rs 2,00,000 from Padma Ratna Tuladhar's organization for Newari language and culture; spent 2,00,000 on his own down clothing, climbing gear and gave Rs 2,00,000 to Foundation for expedition. Others donated Rs 3,00,000 cash, some equipment and free air tickets. Not enough for food, lodging, coolies from BC to Lukla (they came to KTM to collect). Food had finished in and below C2 on descent, but Temba and Dangima had good down clothing and boots.

  When climbers returned to BC, leader had left BC 2-3 days earlier. 

  Phurba Thile abandoned summit bid on 20 May after 10 minutes climb above Col because legs not functioning. Took him long time to descend to BC and to Pheriche, then coolies carried him to Lukla. In KTM to hospital where legs and were diagnosed as affected by cold (not clear what was cause). Mingma Tshering's legs not in good condition and had high altitude sickness on arrival at BC, went to Pheriche clinic for 3 days.

  Ram Krishna Shrestha asked to join expedition by Temba Chiri after Ram Krishna had guided him to top of Island Peak 2 Nov 99.

  Temba Chhiri's amputations: his father told Ram Krishna 3 fingers of right hand amputated entirely, perhaps only parts of 2 left fingers amputated, but RK not sure.


  Babu Chiri Sherpa - 18 June 2000  

  Babu Chiri and his father Dawa met Ram  Krishna at bottom of Hillary Step (about 8800m) when the two Sherpas were descending from summit. Ram asked Babu to help him go to top, but Babu much too tired and refused. They then descended Step together. Ram made no attempt to continue up. They arrived at balcony together (with Ram's Dangima and Temba from S Summit) and then Babu and Dawa went down faster than Ram's party, leaving them there. Ram's statement that he saw people on top from 8826m not correct: one cannot see summit from Step. On summit were 2 yellow oxygen bottles, one standing up in the snow and very hard to miss (Babu showed his photo). On 7 June 2000 Babu said regarding Temba his attempt on Everest not his own idea - he was "too young - under 20, did have not power."


expid: EVER00114
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Robert Hoffman
sponsor: Inventa Environmental Expedition
ascent1: 368
bcdate: 2000-04-14
smtdate: 2000-05-24
smttime: 0806
termdate: 2000-05-31
othersmts: Had permit for Lhotse (to allow clients through Icefall) (LHOT-001-007)
campsites: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(19/04,6100m),C2(29/04,6400m),C3(14/05,7300m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(24/05)
accidents: Hoffman frostbitten in descent from balcony and snowblinded; Boice frostbitten fingers
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in West Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col,

  1st summit bid by Rhoads from C4 night of 15th got to the balcony at 27,500 ft because deep snow and Sherpas found too cold and also turned down. 

  Next bid for top left C4 23 May at 9:30 pm: 13 summiters and Hoffman, Bull, Boice and 2 Sherpas. Hoffman to South Summit and turned back because high winds and white-out beyond immediate fixed ropes: Boice to Hillary Step and then oxygen not working (Williams found him very confused, but Williams got it working again and he descended). Bull just above the balcony and there non-functional and 2 Sherpas pulled him down (Bull always had 2 Sherpas roped to him at all times).

  Trash from South Col oxygen bottles (will be taken to US) include 2 from '52 Swiss) with probably 200 left covered by deep snow. Now bottles are standing upright in snow above Col left this spring and two rubbish piles at South Col left this spring by Bryan Smith and Christine Boskoff teams.

  * Kami Rita is 23 years old - 1st 8000er from Thami (there is another Kami Rita from Thami also).


expid: EVER00115
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Christine Boskoff
sponsor: Mountain Madness Sagarmatha Expedition 2000
ascent1: 341,366
countries: Austria, Pakistan
bcdate: 2000-04-01
smtdate: 2000-05-17
smttime: 0738
campsites: BC(01/04,5350m),C1(03/04,6100m),C2(05/04,6400m),C3(17/04,7400m),C4(07/05,7900m),Smt(17,24/05)
agency: Mountain Madness
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  15 May Nazir, Christine and 4 Sherpas started out from C4. Christine without oxygen at first and got to 8200m, started to use oxygen, but too late so turned down to BC with Habeler, who had stayed in C4 and with Zangbu. Nazir and 4 Sherpas reached South Summit on 15 May, returned to South Col and stayed there another night. Then on 16 May left 4 at 10:00 pm with Canadian Ben Webster. Nazir, Lhakpa Gelu and Danuru to top 17 May at 7:38 am; Ben and 2 Dorjes at top 8:15 am. On 17 May Nazir and 4 Sherpas to BC on 17th while Webster stayed at C4 (tired).

  Christine reached South Col with Nawang Wangchu 23 May and left for top that night at 10:00 pm and both on top at 6:30 am on 24 May and back to BC that 4:30 pm. Lot of deep snow on Lhotse face, which was "very tiring." Habeler refused to use any oxygen and found he just couldn't make it all the way to the top. 


  Habeler - 28 May 2000 

  "It would have been nice to get to the top" but the world is not tumbling down." He used no oxygen - as he hadn't in 1978 and promised Reinhold Messner he would not. Was bemused by today's "unbelievable" scene on Everest with so much crowding and all other changes since 1978.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Dorje, formerly from Nunthala, now Phakding, Ever X4
    Lhakpa Gelu, Kharikhola, brother of Dawa Nuru, Ever X6
    "Big Dorje", Thamo, Ever X7
    Dawa Nuru/Danuru, Kharikhola, Ever X2
    Nawang Wangchu, Chaplung, Kharikhola, Ever X1, Dhaulagiri I

accidents:
  Yeritsian had back problem; Habeler and Boskoff slight pulmonary edema; Dorje (Thamo) frostbitten toes


expid: EVER00116
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Lhakpa Sherpa
sponsor: Nepalese Women Millenium Expedition
ascent1: 348
bcdate: 2000-04-14
smtdate: 2000-05-18
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2000-05-24
campsites: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(21/04,6100m),C2(22/04,6500m),C3(04/05,7300m),C4(17/05,7900m),Smt(18/05)
achievment: 1st Nepali woman to survive a summit success
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in West Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face.

  17th May arrived at C4 at 10:00-11:00 am by Dawa Yangzi and Lhakpa with 4 men: Mingma Dorje (sirdar and guide), Ang Pasang, Ang Phurba and Ang Mingma. Left C4 at 10:30 pm for summit and climbed through night. 18 May at 6:30 am top reached by Lhakpa, Ang Mingma, Ang Pasang and Ang Phurba. Dawa Yangzi turned back at 8500m because she was sick [altitude] and Mingma Dorje went back with her (neighbor in Khumjung). On summit they had tea with Japanese team from north side and stayed 1 hour. Had rainbow at South Summit in ascent and said the weather is "welcoming me" and this was Buddha's birthday. Summiters slept in C2 (had reached by 2:00 pm) one night, then to C2 when stayed 4-5 nights and on BC 22 May afternoon.

  There was some estrangement between Lhakpa and the other 4 members from Khumbu; Sherpas of other teams were upset by a summiter woman not from Khumbu [and that she was always far ahead and apart of the rest of the group.]

  Lhakpa said on return to BC from top she wanted to traverse from North to South.

  Sherpa Summiters (all men)
    Ang Pasang, 32, Thami, Everest 20/5/98
    Mingma, 31, Yilajung (Thami), Everest 18/5/98
    Ang Phurba, 40, Thamo, Cho Oyu 23/9/96


expid: EVER00117
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Byron Smith
sponsor: AGF Everest 2000 Expedition
ascent1: 356
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2000-04-01
smtdate: 2000-05-21
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2000-05-25
campsites: BC(01/04,5375m),C1(06/04,5975m),C2(17/04,6500m),C3(20/04,7200m),C4(20/05,8000m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Interview with Byron Smith - 30 May 2000

  Lhakpa Tshering summited Everest 4X (Khunde)
  Ang Dorje (Chuldim Dorje) summited Everest 6X (Pangboche)
  Karchen Dawa (Khumjung) 1st time.
  They left high camp at 10:30 pm and they all reached the summit by 8:00 am.

  Lela Bahadur and Tsering Phinzo reached South Summit. Tim Rippel reached 8400m turned due to lung infection. They saw Babu at South Summit on their way down, they summited in very strong winds. Byron was the only Westerner to summit that day.

  Live broadcasts from C2, C3 and all other camps; that is why they needed so many Sherpas to carry all communication equipment. 

  Byron went from BC -> C2 in 4 hours
  C2 -> C3 in 2 hours and 58 min
  C3 -> C4 in 2 hours and 18 min

  John and Ann Armstrong (BC only) left BC on 10 April. Ann wanted to stay but John hated the isolation and being on the mountain, so Ann went with him.

  Brad Wrobleski was dismissed from the expedition by the leader and left 10 April.

  George Gallont left 5 April, this was his normal scheduled departure - he was only trekking to BC camp (BC only).

  Virginia Robinson - (BC only).


  Tim Rippel - 20 March 2001

  Byron Smith was a very difficult person. He (Smith) kicked Brad off the expedition because of friction shortly after arriving at BC. Smith said Brad left because he was afraid of the icefall which was definitely not true.

  Smith came down to C4 at 10:30 am after claiming he made the top at 7:30 am. He left the col by midnight carrying nothing but a water bottle [and oxygen] going up. All summit party members down to C4 at about 2:30 pm. He had many cameras with him to the top and 1 Sherpa with camera, but no summit pictures.

  Rippel not to top because it was cold and it would not be possible to do live video from summit because of strong winds that prevented taking gloves off.

  Other people in Canada have expressed doubts that Smith actually reached the summit because of the lack of pictures and the rapid ascent and descent times.


  Ben Webster - 29 May 2001

  Webster's Sherpas were told by Smith's Sherpas Smith did not reach summit, but 20 Aug 2001 Toosi's Chewang Dorje said Smith's Sherpas said Smith summited.


  27 June 2001 - Sherpa showed Asian Trekking people his photo that shows Smith on top.


  Byron Smith - 4 July 2001

  Smith faxed details of his ascent to Elizabeth Hawley.

  "When I was above the Hillary Step I looked and saw some of my Sherpas behind me and Michael Down who was at the South Summit, I waved and carried on."

  "Once I was over the Step and again when I was about 30 steps from the summit, I radioed down to basecamp. This is documented on CBC Television tape which I did not know at the time. Once I reached the summit, my first concern was radioing to basecamp so they could patch me through to the CBC in Canada. The first thing I said on the radio was 'I can't go any further, I am on top of the world.'"

  "On the summit we had extremely high winds and it was not safe to set up the two, flat foldout satellite antennas and hook up all the video broadcasting equipment necessary to do a live video broadcast. I did not want to compromise anyone's safety. As four Sherpa and myself sat upon the summit, two more Sherpa arrived. Lhakpa Tshering pulled out his camera and tried to take a picture but the camera did not work. I took mine out of the front liner of my down suit and tried but it did not work. Mingma Dorje (I have since found out it was Ang Dorje's camera) took a photo in my direction. I radioed basecamp that we were heading down because of the high winds. We were only halfway home and my concern was for a safe descent in 85-knot wind's and not a picture of myself."


  Mingma Tenzing - 1 Oct 2001 

  Smith definitely reached top - so many Sherpas to top above to carry equipment to telephone from top and take many pictures (video including) but too strong wind to hold up flag and put up a equipment - Smith "very strong climber, stronger than some of our Sherpas."


  From Byron Smith's Sworn Statement of 10 Nov 2004

  "On May 21, 2000 at approximately 7:05 am Nepal time, I arrived and stood on the very top of Mount Everest. With me at that time on the top of Mount Everest were my expedition Sherpa's - Lhakpa Tshering (Sirdar, Khunde), Ang Dorje (Pangboche), Mingma Tenji (Thame), Tenzing Dorje (Phortse), Mingma (Thame), Norbu Ongchu (Pangboche). They were beside me as I radioed down to base camp saying that we had arrived safely. The radio transmission was relayed from the radio base-unit from base camp through a satellite phone directly to the CBC Television control center in Toronto Ontario Canada. CBC broadcasted my live radio call all across Canada on live National Television."

  "We were not able to set up the broadcast equipment to broadcast live TV images back to CBC because of the very high winds [85-knot winds as stated in fax of 4 July 2001]. We had carried up to the summit all the broadcasting equipment."

  "During my radio transmission I saw Lhakpa Tshering who was on my right, take out his camera and try to take a few photos of me and the others but his camera did not seem to work. I know this because he looked at it and gave it a shake implying something was not right. Another Sherpa took a few photos in my direction of all of us at the summit. I pulled out my Leica camera but it would not respond, nothing would happen when I pressed the button. I used it on the way up when I was just below the South summit. I wanted to capture the sunrise over Tibet and the Pyramid shadow over Nepal, etc., but I could only get it to make a clicking noise. I tried repeatedly, I believed it had froze up which made the batteries very low or dead. I had the spare video camera in my pack but didn't even think of using it, the thought never entered my mind. The photos and videoing were to have been done by Tim Ripple (sic) a climber who I had hired to be my expedition cameraman. Tim had turned back below the balcony."

  "It was clear, cold and very windy on the summit with a snow plume blowing off the summit. I was able to look out and see the Himalayan mountains fall off below me, the views were spectacular."

  "It had taken us approximately 2-1/2 hours to descend from the summit. I could see Tim holding the video camera shooting film of me walking towards our tent, someone from another expedition yelled out a congratulations to me, I waved to him and entered the tent. When I got to the tent I went inside and rested, Tim had made a thermos of hot lemon water, which I drank. I knew and could feel that Tim was disappointed that he had not summited so I did not say anything other that hi, and some casual conversation at first. I laid my head back, put my hand to my head and closed my eyes for a moment. Then a flush of emotion came over me - I had summited. Tim filmed me as I told him about getting to the summit."

  "It was very emotional in the tent at this point for me as well as for Tim. Tim put the camera down and broke down with uncontrollable sobbing. I tried to comfort him and told him that he could still go for the summit."


  Mingma Dorje - 19 Nov 2004

  One Sherpa summiter, Mingma Dorje (aka Mingma Thamo), came to see me and Richard Salisbury on 19 Nov to present his statement that Smith had been on summit on same day as he. Mingma explained that Tim Rippel was very slow climber towards summit and did not get to top to take movies of Smith at top. Rippel and Smith had been good friends until summit day, then Smith became very angry at Rippel when he returned to the South Col because he failed to summit with him and thus no video was taken of Smith's success.

  Mingma Dorje showed us a photograph of himself on the summit taken by another Sherpa. The weather conditions appeared to be very cloudy and snowing with very low visibility. Mingma affirmed that there were no photographs or video taken of Smith on the summit that day.


  Bikel Adhikari and Mohan Singh, Asian Trekking - 17 Feb 2005

  They recalled that photo produced by Mingma Dorje showed a Sherpa fall faced and at edge part of side of another person's face but profile covered by oxygen mask. Bikel kept photo a month, then returned it to Mingma without having made a copy since it was impossible to recognize 2nd person in it. They were on a summit and Mingma Dorje said 2nd person was Smith. Bikel asked for full roll of film but was told this was the only one of Smith. Smith had asked Asian Trekking to get photos of him on top and send them to him.


  Ben Webster - 23 March 2005

  I asked Ben Webster today to reconfirm his statement of May 2001 that Smith's Sherpas told his Sherpas that Smith had not reached the summit. Webster's comment was "Absolutely." He said the Sherpa chat took place in 2001. When he himself tried to talk with Smith Sherpas, they smiled but refused to be drawn into a conversation. They acknowledged that Smith had paid them extra money; whether that was to say Smith had summited or not to talk about the climb, Webster didn't know.

  Webster volunteered the comment that "to this day, I don't know whether he (Smith) summited or not. I heard so many rumors." 

  Webster said that Tim Rippel told him the he (Rippel) was the only person on the team that had an operational video camera.


expid: EVER00118
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Ben Webster
sponsor: Canadian Everest 2000
ascent1: 342
bcdate: 2000-04-06
smtdate: 2000-05-17
smttime: 0815
campsites: BC(06/04),C1(15/04),C2(16/04,6350m),C3(13/05,7250m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Mountain Madness
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in West Cwm
  C4 at South Col.

  Straightforward climb.

  * Nazir Sabir: Webster reached top on 8:15 and Nazir at 7:38 am.


expid: EVER00119
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Robert Link
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG)/Modern Link Expedition 2000
ascent1: 360
countries: Australia
bcdate: 2000-04-01
smtdate: 2000-05-22
smttime: 0820
termdate: 2000-05-28
othersmts: Had permit for Lhotse (to allow clients through Icefall) (LHOT-001-08)
campsites: BC(01/04),C1(07/04,6100m),C2(14/04,6500m),C3(19/05),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(22/05)
accidents: Wise bruised hand in icefall and left early; Gattone snowblind
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Spent 1 week in C2 and saw bad snow conditions on Lhotse Face, so down to BC and stayed there until mid-May (some Sherpas down to Pangboche to visit families). Summit party left BC 16 May including Dunnahoo, Greenholz, Miss Gattone, Link, Wilson, Ang Pasang, Dawa Sonam, Ang Gelu, Dorje Sherpas and cook Pemba. All reached C4 except cook who turned back at Geneva Spur with headache. 6 members (not Gattone, who got snowblind getting to C4 and stayed there, unable to go up or down) left C4 at 10:00 pm 21 May and Wilson turned back just below balcony with Dunnahoo who was tired and unable to move. Ang Pasang, Link and Greenholz down from just below South Summit because 10:00 am and he ran out of energy. Just below Hillary Step Dorje went down because tired, a little slow and young. On South Summit Dawa Sonam turned down to go down with the Pangboche summiters in their descent and weather deteriorating with snow starting now at 11:00 am while Hahn with him went on to top at 1:30 pm (2 hours from 3 summit). Other 4 summiters were on top at 9:15 am, the first to top from south side with others behind.


  Hahn - 13 March 01 

  Hahn on summit at 1:20 pm, the last person top that day and only one at 1:20 pm. He returned to C4 at 7:30 pm, in slow descent from just below "the balcony" because helped on Iranian whose oxygen had finished.


expid: EVER00120
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Henry Todd
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Everest Expedition
ascent1: 369
countries: Canada, USA, Yugoslavia
bcdate: 2000-04-07
smtdate: 2000-05-26
termdate: 2000-05-27
othersmts: Attempted Lhotse (LHOT-001-05)
campsites: BC(05/04,5350m),C1(16-17/04,6400m),C3(25/04,7300m),C4(11/05,7900m),Smt(26/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  C1 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  25 May summit party left Col at 10:30 pm: Woodmansees, Hoffman and Leonard not to top: Woodmansees got no higher than 150m above Col (oxygen probably), Hoffman 8400m (had done enough), Leonard 8500m (oxygen problem) and Ferlan at 8700m (left freezing and Pasang Dawa with him). All others from Col to top; all down to C2 or lower same day. Henry Todd had to go up from Col 26 May to help down Ferlan from about 8300m after his oxygen was exhausted and he saw himself in Buddhist temples (become euphoric).

  Jones wrote reports to Discovery (Internet) full of lies. Henry Todd got so angry with Jones that he threatened to attack him and chased him; Jones tripped while running away and injured himself; helicopter evacuated him to save him from other possible attack from other members. Todd is instituting libel case which noted QC Lord Mackay (up) wants to handle as test case of Internet libel - described Jones as mentally sick. Helicopter called for by Dan Morrison of Quokka "to save his life" but actually called for it before Todd incident, since there had been others: Todd Hoffman had gotten tired of Jones constantly taking photos of him and put his camera behind Jones' tent. Jones screamed that his property had been stolen and attacked Hoffman in the face, injuring him. Henry Todd is not only person suing Discovery and/or Jones: Todd Hoffman probably will; another expedition's leader Bob Hoffman has instructed his lawyers to sue for libel over Jones' false charges of fraud (alleging Bob Hoffman used funds and collected for clean-up activities to pay for climbing - Bob Hoffman kept separate accounts very carefully and spent no clean-up funds on clients climbs).

  21 May 2001 - Guy Cotter, New Zealander who led team to Everest also, said was at BC when Todd was assaulted Jones. He did not see the incident himself (he saw a bruised face later) but Todd's BC manager, Ms Melissa Kade, came to Cotter very upset by seeing Todd strike Jones and then Todd's demand that she deny the story (Kade did not go above BC but in Winter 1999 season she went to Ama Dablam on Todd's expedition and summited).

  25 Sept 2001 - Inaki Ochoa, climbing leader for Todd on Cho Oyu, talked at Everest BC with Todd's 2000 Everest team member Scott Markey, who swore that Todd did not hit Jones. Markey witnessed the episode and is "absolutely honest."

  28 Sept 2001 - Patrick Kenny, one of Todd's summiters, said he saw the Todd-Jones incident. Todd did not hit Jones, but when Jones stumbled and fell, Todd sat on him and Jones got hurt as he turned his head from side to side.


expid: EVER00122
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Gabriel Filippi
bcdate: 2000-04-03
smtdate: 2000-05-21
termdate: 2000-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 8300 due to weather
campsites: BC(03/04,5300m),C1(09/04,6000m),C2(10/04,6400m),C3(17/05,7300m),C4(20/05,7950m),xxx(21/05,8300m)
agency: Nomad Expeditions
routememo:
  BC at normal locations
  High point at 100m below Balcony.

  Woke up at 10:00 pm [at South Col] and started climbing. Hugo Rodriguez and a Sherpa went ahead of Filippi but they climbed separately. Filippi climbed entirely on his own but using Babu and Hugo camps (except BC and C2).

  Fillipi got hypothermia at C2 due to the zipper on his sleeping bag not working.


expid: EVER00124
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Mexico
leaders: Hugo Rodriguez
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2000-04-01
smtdate: 2000-05-21
termdate: 2000-05-25
campsites: BC(01/04,5400m),ABC(04/04),C2(04/04),xxx(21/05,8750m)
agency: Nomad Expeditions
routememo:
  C2 was considered their ABC.

  Babu Chiri acted as sirdar the same day Babu summited. Hugo Rodriguez went to the South Summit but turned back due to bad weather. Babu started from base camp on 20 May and reached summit on 21st around 10:00 am or so.

  Danu Sherpa and Lhakpa Sherpa turned around with Rodriguez at South Summit.

  Zebadua and Kormanduski both just stayed at base camp.


expid: EVER00125
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Bill Zachary
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2000-04-05
smtdate: 2000-05-21
termdate: 2000-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to fatigue and shortage of food
campsites: BC(05/04,5340m),C1(20/04,6100m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(06/05,7340m),C4(20/05,7950m),xxx(21/05,8100m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  April 26 from C2 climbed up to 6800m, returned to C2 stayed on 27th. Down to BC on 28th.
   
  On May 17 to C2, 19 to C3, 20 to C4, 21 up to 8100m, then returned to BC.

  * little snowblindness. 
  * He suffered from lung infection for 10 days.

  Leaving Nepal probably on May 31.


expid: EVER00126
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: David Hiddleston
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Everest Expedition 2000
countries: Japan, USA
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2000-04-11
smtdate: 2000-05-15
termdate: 2000-05-19
termnote: Abandoned at 8750m due to shortage of ropes
campsites: BC(11/04,5300m),C1(14/04,6100m),C2(16/04,6500m),C3(20/04,7300m),C4(14/05,7900m),xxx(15/05,8750m)
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  Proceeded together C1
  April 11 - BC
        14 - C1
        16 - C2
        19 - members Hebson and Okubo left BC. Hebson left BC for KTM
             on April 25 [chest infection], Okubo left BC on May 5 [exhaustion].
        20 - C3 spent night by leader alone (then to BC)
    May 13 - reached C2
        14 - from C4 started at 23:00 hours together with Sherpas. 
        15 - reached South Summit at 09:30 hours. After an hour decided
             to call off the climb. Before leaving BC. Agreed with the
             English expedition to carry each climber 100m ropes and
             to use after South Summit. Hiddleston team's ropes were used
             between balcony to South Summit. When other team arrived at
             South Summit, they were told that the ropes had been left at balcony. 

  Speed climbing: Ang Dorji Sherpa from Pangboche. He started from BC on 14 May at 16:00 hours and reached South Col at 24:00 hours. Then had to use oxygen and called off the climb.

  Hiddleston said: "It had been a great disappointment to abandon the climb despite nice weather conditions."

  He extends his best regards. Leaving Nepal on 24th.


expid: EVER00127
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Jeff Warden
bcdate: 2000-04-09
smtdate: 2000-05-20
termdate: 2000-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 7285m due to after effects of lung infection
campsites: BC(09/04,5350m),C1(13/04,6100m),C2(21/04,6400m),C3(23/04,7130m),xxx(20/05,7285m)
accidents: Warden got food poisoning 1 May, got cured 4 May and up to C2 for 2 days
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C2 in West Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face.

  20 May tried to reach South Col for summit.

  Lung infection after soccer game 7 May at bottom of Icefall, so 9 May down to Pangboche for 6 days, but never cured of it and still has rasping voice. Returned to BC 16 May. 17 May reached C2 rested at C2, 19 May to C3 but health deteriorated (no voice), but felt could still go up. But during that night stopped breathing for few seconds because winds pipe clogged by flem but morning of 20th with oxygen went up and stopped at 23,900 ft (just below Yellow Band) because throat worse. Turned down to C3 but later same day tried to go up without oxygen because you have to try, but now only about 300 ft when throat seemed to continue getting worse (wind pipe swelling). Finally again turned back and went to BC same day at about 3:00 pm and knew not likely to get better but thought of trying again on 27th. But on 22nd morning but realized not up to mother lord and quit. 

  Was an independent team but climbed with other "independent."


expid: EVER00128
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Tosio Nakamura
sponsor: Hosei University Qomolungma Expedition 2000
ascent1: 347,349,355
countries: Australia
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 2000-04-15
smtdate: 2000-05-17
termdate: 2000-05-25
othersmts: Langtang trek, Tedgori peak
achievment: Tosio Yamamoto oldest to date (63 years old)
agency: Rolwaling Trek
campsites:
  BC(15/04,5240m),C1(17/04),C2(18/04,5500m),C3(19/04,6400m),C4(22/04,7040m),C5(04/05,7450m),C6(16/05,8200m),Smt(17-19/05)

routememo:
  C1 with single tent for emergency use
  C2 with single tent for emergency use
  C3 at usual site used as ABC
  C4 at North Col
  C5 on the ridge.

  C3 (ABC) used by two members and all Sherpas on April 19
  C4 established on April 22 - all Sherpas, two members
  C5 established on May 4 mainly by Sherpas. Returned at about 10:30 hours to C4, Sherpas to ABC.

  On May 18 started from C4 at 01:30 hours, summit at 09:35 hours, returned to C4, Pasang to ABC.

  Weather condition was good. The team received weather forecast directly from Japan. All the above timings are Nepal time.

  Sherpas:
    Mingma Tsering - 6 times to summit
    Pemba Gyalgen - first time
    Tenzing 
    Norbu - 5 or 6 times
    Pasang Kitar (son of sirdar Ang Phurba)
    Nawang Dorje

  Expedition Doctor Shimizu left Nepal third week of May due to commitments in Japan. He was up to C4. General leader Ota reached to BC on May 2, left on 3 May.


expid: EVER00129
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Koichi Ezaki
sponsor: Hokkaido Mt Everest Expedition 2000
ascent1: 344
bcdate: 2000-04-17
smtdate: 2000-05-17
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2000-05-25
agency: Cosmo Treks
campsites:
  BC(17/04,5100m),Intermed(20/04,5600m),ABC(21/04,6300m),C1(25/04,7000m),C2(26/04,7700m),C3(16/05,8200m),Smt(17/05)

routememo:
  C1 at North Col.

  Tuyoshi Yamamoto returned from BC on 23rd April and flew back home on 29th April. He had no plans to climb, he came to see and experience the base camp.

  Three climbers along with the Sherpas started climbing from C3 at 4:30 am on 17th May and summited at 10:30 am of the same day. Spent one hour on the top. Weather was clear, but was cloudy on the Nepal side. They saw Makalu, Lhotse and other peaks. Took photo with video camera, plugged flags. Since they were using oxygen they did not have any problem the top as they had thought. Returned to C3 at 3:30 pm the same day. Returned to ABC and BC on 18th and 22nd of May respectively.

  Rope used from ABC to C3, fixed by New Zealand group.

  Ruchia also became 2nd Japanese lady summiter to climb Everest from north side.


expid: EVER00130
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Gheorghe Dijmarescu
ascent1: 354
bcdate: 2000-04-13
smtdate: 2000-05-19
smttime: 1530
termdate: 2000-05-27
campsites: BC(13/04),C1(7000m),C2(17/05,7800m),C3(18/05,8300m),Smt(19/05)
achievment: 1st Dane to climb on Everest
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Returned from top at 5:30 pm and slept there 19th. He was not the last person to reach summit on 19th; wanted to reach top 2nd times this spring but had very bad cough and did not make 2nd attempt; came again this spring to make 2nd ascent, without oxygen this time.


  Brice - 11 June 2000 

  Gheorghe told him his reason to come back and climb to top without oxygen and told him had not used it.


expid: EVER00121
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Son Joong-Ho
sponsor: 2000 Korean Expedition
ascent1: 339
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2000-04-05
smtdate: 2000-05-16
smttime: 1050
termdate: 2000-05-21
campsites: BC(05/04,5400m),C1(08,11/04,6050m),C2(15/04,6400m),C3(22/04,7300m),C4(29/04,7950m),Smt(16/05)
achievment: Millenium first summit
agency: Beyond Base Camp
routememo:
  C1 established on April 11, five people spent night on 12th. On 13th went up to C2 site and down to BC. C2 used on 15th. C3 established on 22nd and slept all members on 23rd. 

  May 5th to C4 to rest. Down to C2 on 6th. May 9th two members spent two nights in C3 down to C2 due to high wind.

  On May 14 Byun and Kim left at 23:00 hours, reached South Summit 10:30 hours on 15th. Down to C2 due to not enough fixed ropes. 

  May 15 Mo and Park left C4 at 23:00 hours, summited at 10:50 am of May 16th.

  The leader was already in Kathmandu a week before.


expid: EVER00123
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Saeed Toossi
ascent1: 363
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2000-04-05
smtdate: 2000-05-22
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2000-05-27
campsites: BC(05/04,5340m),C1(11/04,6100m),C2(17/04,6400m),C3(29/04,7340m),C4(20/05,7950m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at usual site
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in West Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  C1 - spent two nights 11-12 April, then down to BC.
  C2 - spent 17-19 April, then down to BC. 
  Again on 29 April from C2 to C3.
  May 2 to BC 

  May 16 to C1 (storm) 
  May 17-18 to C2 
  May 19 to C3
  May 20 to South Col 
  May 21 left C4 at 23:00 hours, summited at 10:30 hours on May 22. Spent night in South Col. Placed on summit flag with Iranian flag and American flag.

  Leaving Nepal on June 1.


  28 Aug 01 - Toossi said he used oxygen in C4 from time to time, continously from C4 to top and down to balcony then oxygen finished. Used again sometimes in C4 till descent 23 May. Chewang Dorje also used oxygen to go to summit.


  I left BC for the summit on the morning of the May 16. I spent the night of the 16th with Ana Czerwinska in C1 due to storm. I arrived at the C2 at 10:00 am of the 17th, spent 17th and 18th at C2. 

  I left C2 on the morning of the 19th and arrived at C2 at 12:00 noon. I left C2 on the morning of the 20th with oxygen at 11 am to practice the usage. Arrived at C4 at 1:30 pm. The Sherpas arrived after 4:00 pm so by the time I was in the tent and resting it was 6:00 pm. I delayed the summit attempt to the 21st because of the weather condition and lack of rest. I was using very little oxygen at this time about 10 min every 1.5 hours.

  I left C4 with a fresh bottle of oxygen for the summit at 10:30 pm. I changed the bottle at Balcony at 5:30 am. I spent 30 min without oxygen. I arrived at the summit at 10:30-45 and spent 45 minutes on the summit without oxygen. I began the descend at about 12 noon. I separated from my Sherpa after South Summit near Balcony. I ran out of oxygen shortly after that and I met David Hahn at about 4:30 pm below Balcony. I walked down with him to the South Col. At the South Col I had a fresh bottle of oxygen to use. I think I used 4 bottles of oxygen total and one was used by my Sherpa. My Sherpa had his own oxygen also but I don't know how many he used. I hope this information is sufficent.

  Above source of information: mail sent to Mr Jeevan Shrestha on July 24, 2001.


expid: EVER00133
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Everest Expedition 2000
countries: China, France, Mexico, Switzerland, UK, USA
bcdate: 2000-04-08
smtdate: 2000-05-21
termdate: 2000-06-04
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to deep snow and avalanche danger
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(08/04,5200m),ABC(11/04,6400m),C1(20/04,7000m),C2(29/04,7500m),C3(04/05,7900m),C4(21/05,8300m),xxx(21/05,8300m)

routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C3 occupied by Sherpas only and Lapkass
  C4 never occupied (pitched by Sherpas)
  High point at North Ridge North Face.

  C3 slept in by Sherpas only - members never slept there and C4 at 8300m pitched but never occupied by anyone. Too much snow and at end also bad winds and avalanche danger. 3 summit attempts ended essentially at C2: on 31 May, 25 May and earlier by Kelly, Lapkass, Loredo-Vidal, Mackenzie and Warner and all 5 climbing Sherpas. Warner and Brice to 7900m fixing rope and both again to 7900m and Lapkass load carrying and rope fixing: all summit team (Kelly, Loredo-Vidal, Mackenzie and Surchat, who was in one summit team also) and 5 climbing Sherpas: Lobsang, Karsang, Phurba, Dawa and Gyalgen. Oxygen used by Kelly on 31 May (Kelly last one left) with all 5 Sherpas, Lapkass and Warner from C1 to C2 in this final summit bid which ended by avalanche conditions and wind blowing a lot of snow on to tents even - constant problem. 

  Clients by air to Lhasa, had to speed a night at Chengdu; those by road to BC had to build bridge at top of Zangmu.

  Russians were fixing rope to North Col when Brice arrived, but totally off route so Brice team put in rope themselves and fixed to 7900m and carried all ropes for rest of mountain. Noguchi [Japanese] team and others fixed to 8300m, but no rope fixed between 1st and 2nd Steps although Japanese Sherpas took contributions and said they had. Lake formed above ABC quickly with suddenly warmer weather: Brice dug out of hill a path around it and later made raft to float supplies to BC 1 (lake 5-6m deep, so impossible by yaks).

  Hoyland and Whetu had no success at all in search for Mallory/Irvine '24 camera. Too much snow on mountain for them to get high enough - wanted to search above 8000m in area off normal route around Mallory's body.


expid: EVER00134
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Francois Loubert
sponsor: Everest Millenium
approach: Kodari->Nilam->BC
bcdate: 2000-04-11
smtdate: 2000-05-28
termdate: 2000-06-02
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to snow and no time to attempt again
campsites: BC(11/04,5200m),ABC(15/04,6400m),C1(25/04,7000m),C2(19/05,7500m),C3(27/05,7900m),xxx(28/05,8100m)
accidents: Laperriere had problem of vomiting and lost appetite
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col.

  Nadon started climbing from 7900m at 10:30 pm of 27th May and reached the height of 8100m at 12:30 am of 28th May. Did not find the trail because it was covered by snow. No one had attempted for summit during that period. Nadon could not go beyond this point, turned around and came down to C3 at 1:30 am of 28th May.

  Loubert reached 7000m, Mailhot reached 7700m, Laperriere reached 6500m and Giasson reached ABC.

  Loubert and all others members used rope which was being fixed by others.


expid: EVER00135
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiroshi Yashima
sponsor: Qomolunga 2000 Jen Expedition
ascent1: 345,353
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2000-04-14
smtdate: 2000-05-17
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2000-05-25
othersmts: Mera Peak
campsites: BC(14/04,5100m),ABC(19/04,6300m),C1(26/04,7050m),C2(01/05,7500m),C3(14/05,8200m),Smt(17,19/05)
agency: Rolwaling Trek
routememo:
  BC at usual BC between ABC 
  C1 at North Col
  C2 used on May 15
  C3 at North Ridge.

  Between TBC and ABC had about BC1.5 (yak camp). To C1 Yamashita and Yashima and four Sherpas. On 26th April C2 and C3 established on May 1st and 14th, respectively. On 15th Hosaka, Kodama and Yashima stayed in C2. Moved up to C3 with Pemba and Nima on 16th. On 17th left C3 at 01:30 hours, summited at 11:00 hours, stayed about half an hour. Returned to C3 and to ABC on 18th.

  Second team: Kobayashi, Konno, Tanaka and Yamashita with Nawang, Gyalu and Pasang. Left C3 at 01:10 hours, summited at 09:25 hours on 19th, stayed about one hour; Konno and Pasang Kami summited at 12:30 hours. Tanaka down to C1. Konno stayed in C3 and Kobayashi and Yamashita in C2 with three Sherpas.

  They were happy for having all members back and success.
  - Member Miss Mihara remained in ABC all the time due to tiredness.
  - Expedition Doctor Simizu and leader Yashima left BC on 20th May
  - Doctor left KTM on May 24th due to his commitments in Japan
  - The expedition received weather forecasts directly from Japan

  First team Sherpas: 
    Nima Gyalzen - third time to summit [second?]
    Pemba Dorje  - first time

  Second team Sherpas: 
    Nawang Tenzing - third time [first time?]
    Pasang Kami    - first time
    Gyalu Lama


expid: EVER00136
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Viatcheslav Skripko
sponsor: Russian Everest Expedition
ascent1: 371
countries: UK
bcdate: 2000-04-10
smtdate: 2000-05-28
smttime: 0745
termdate: 2000-06-04
accidents: Abramova stomach and lungs problems and left 22 May
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(10/04),ABC(15/04,6400m),C1(20/04,7000m),C2(06/05,7600m),C3(15/05,7900m),C4(22/05,8300m),Smt(28/05)

routememo:
  C1 at North Col.

  Skripko spent 5 days at C3 from 28 May until he went down because of fresh snowfall, wind, trail covered by snow, so when he alone tried to make new trail on 30 May, he reached 8050m only when alone and down to 7000m on 1 June and decided climb finished.

  26 May Volodine alone arrived to C4 and slept till left camp for summit at 4:00 am on 28 May in little windy and cloudy weather, but could follow trail already there from 2 climbers the day before and no serious problems. On top (10:00 am, Chinese time or 7:45 NST) and down to North Col that night. 

  All members reached 7900m or higher (including Mrs Abramova). Korchunov had attempted summit in May '99 on Skripko's expedition, lost his mind at or on top of 2nd Step, thought he had summited but no one believe this claim. This spring he came back again, but did not want to sleep at 7900m more than one night and bad weather prevented him from climbing higher.


expid: EVER00137
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Jacek Berbeka
bcdate: 2000-04-12
smtdate: 2000-05-20
termdate: 2000-05-29
termnote: Abandoned at 8650m due to cold winds
campsites: BC(12/04,5100m),ABC(18/04,6400m),C1(21/04,7100m),C2(05/05,7800m),C3(19/05,8300m),xxx(20/05,8650m)
achievment: In two days KTM to BC
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  High point at Second Step.

  Two climbers started climbing from C3 at 11 pm of 19th May and reached 8650m at 4 am of 20th May, turned around due to very cold high wind. Came back to C3 at 9 am of the same day, spent some 5 hours at C3 and went back to C2, at reached C2 at 4 pm and spent the night.

  Weather did not improve so had to abandon the expedition. They had no problem of altitude or anything else except the bad weather. Cold wind had started blowing from the night of 19th May at about 2 pm.


expid: EVER00138
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Ian Anderson
sponsor: British Everest 2000 North Ridge Expedition
ascent1: 350
countries: New Zealand
bcdate: 2000-04-01
smtdate: 2000-05-18
smttime: 1151
termdate: 2000-05-29
accidents: Na Temba snowblind temporarily; cook boy pneumonia
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
campsites:
  BC(01/04),Intermed(5800m),ABC(10/04,6400m),C1(23/04,7000m),C2(10/05,7700m),C3(17/05,8300m),Smt(18/05)

routememo:
  18 May summit team of 3 left C3 at 3:30 am, on top 11:51 after 1 Japanese and 2 Sherpas, who got to top 6:30 am. Britons slept in C3 but Nga Temba in C2 (because snowblind that night, partly because not comfortable with new oxygen system the team provided). All members to North Col except Rob Facer.

  9 June 2000 - Fairweather and Kenny got to North Col camp which they reached 24 May, slept there to 26th night, on 27th to C2. 28th Anderson ordered them to leave there and they descended to ABC on 28th stayed at ABC and wanted to ascend with Brice's expedition and returned to North Col on 30 May, but Brice's client came down and no backup left for summit bid and down on 1 June (in perfect weather), but now commited to leave.

  * Na (Nga) Temba atop Everest 7 times before and Cho Oyu once - name sanctions spelled Nga Temba


  Facer had pulmonary edema in 2nd weak of April in intermediate camp (5800m) and left expedition quickly.

  Faulkner retinal hemmorhage in one eye 1st week of May at North Col and left quickly.

  Fletcher peptic ulcer during 1st week May in ABC (had gone to North Col at end of April).

  White got frostbite and left expedition 25 May.


expid: EVER00140
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: David Allason-Pritt
sponsor: Everest 2000
ascent1: 346
countries: Australia, Netherlands, New Zealand
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2000-04-08
smtdate: 2000-05-17
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2000-05-31
campsites: BC(08/04,5300m),ABC(12/04,6400m),C1(16/04,7000m),C2(29/04,7800m),C3(16/05,8300m),Smt(17/05)
accidents: Snowblind, altitude problem, eye hemorrhage
achievment: 1st Dutch from North side and 1st British from north side in new millenium
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Horrex, Vrijlandt and Walters started climbing from C2 at 3:30 am of 17th May. Horrex turned around from 2nd Step at about 8:45 am because he felt very tired.

  Vrijlandt and Walters reached the summit at about 11:30 am of 17th May spent 30 minutes, took photographs. They met Japanese group on the top. While on the summit they talked to BC on radio, enjoyed scenery. Weather was perfect: calm and clear. Two summiters returned to C3 at 3 pm and further went down to C2 at about 6 pm of 17th and spent night over there. 

  Walters does not want to climb again Everest, but Vrijlandt wants to climb again Everest from south side.

  Walters had snowblind problem for some 2 hours. He found his eyes painful while they started descending. Though he was snowblind he could see a little so he managed to come down to C2. Sherpas from C2 helped him to go down.

  * Used fixed rope below C3 and there was old rope on various places above C3. While coming down there was new rope fixed by Japanese group which they also used.

  On 18th and 24th of May Arnold, Dent, Jewell, Le Poole, Newey and Pearson
  attempted for summit, but due to wind and bad weather they could not go beyond 8500m.

  Callingham, Cottam and Walker left BC for Kathmandu in mid-April because Callingham and Cottam had altitude problems and Walker had eye hemorrhage.

  Groenendaal, Le Poole, Newey and Pearson left BC two days before the last group because they had to fly back home.

  Sherpas waited at C2 as their job was not to go above.

  Cameraman De Wert reached the bottom of North Col.

  Vrijlandt used oxygen from C3 until he came down to C2. Walters reached C3 without oxygen, slept with oxygen at C3 and used oxygen to go to summit and to come down to C2.


expid: EVER00141
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Ken Noguchi
sponsor: Noguchi Chomoloungma Cleaning Expedition
approach: Lhasa->BC
bcdate: 2000-04-22
smtdate: 2000-05-19
termdate: 2000-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m (only cleaning garbage)
campsites: BC(22/04,5300m),ABC(27/04,6400m),C1(05/05,7000m),C2(18/05,7800m),xxx(19/05,8300m)
accidents: One Sherpa sent back due to blood clots in legs (his name Pardem?)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal area
  C1 at North Col.

  On May 19 Ken Noguchi climbed to 7900m to clean garbage, almost all the 22 Sherpas went to 8300m to clean garbage only. They collected 120 oxygen bottles and 1-1/2 tons of garbage. Some garbage went to TMA, 800 kilos of mostly Japanese and Korean garbage will go back to Japan in big boxes and the 120 oxygen bottles will go back to Japan by ship. There was a body at 8300m (an Austrian from 1996, Reinhard Wlasich); they rolled him down the North Face, the Sherpas did move him themselves. Most of the garbage was Korean, Chinese, Japanese and Russian.

  * Noriyuki Muraguchi went to 7900m with Noguchi
  * The pictures are from 1997 and now all the garbage from these photos 

  Ken Noguchi might come back next year to clean south side; to see what is left over from Bob Hoffman and finish what he could not clean.


expid: EVER00142
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Ivan Aristov
ascent1: 336,340,352
countries: Ukraine
bcdate: 2000-04-06
smtdate: 2000-05-15
termdate: 2000-05-24
campsites: BC(06/04),ABC(11/04,6400m),C1(14/04,7050m),C2(13/05,7700m),C3(14/05,8300m),Smt(15,17,19/05)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col.

  Went 3 times to C2 site but could only leave supplies there and descend quickly because strong winds, but finally to slept in C2 13 May; 14 May in C3 and 15 May to top. Were first team to top this season and only summiters on 15-17 May. Other summiters was Sherpa woman (no Swiss with her) but first to top that day (19th): next was Afanasiev, next was Sherpa woman with Koreans, Japanese and Chinese, Zakharov and Sedusov. Bokov saw more (one without oxygen) at 3:00 and probably to top as weather was fine. The Sherpani asked Russians for help to go down (said "I'm alone") and Zakharov, Sedusov and Afanasiev helped Pemba Doma Sherpani (of Swiss expedition) down. She did not know how to descend fixed ropes and having trouble, fell and grabbed Afanassiev's foot to get up. At 2nd Step oxygen finished and Zakharov gave her his own oxygen and then had none himself till found 17th members lost oxygen near Step and he then had oxygen again. Afanasiev in C3 at 4:45 pm and others later. Sherpa from other team came down and the Sherpani given to him. 17 May 1st on top were group from south side. Bershov at 10:50 am (Chinese time) was first from north side, next Jakimov, Japanese with Sherpas, other 2 Russians next, then more.

  After 19 May bad weather and many teams failed due to strong wind (1 Dane died in fall).


expid: EVER00143
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Yan Geng-Hua
sponsor: Heilongjiang Warriors
ascent1: 359
bcdate: 2000-04-15
smtdate: 2000-05-21
smttime: 0945
campsites: BC(15/04),ABC(23/04,6400m),C1(7000m),C2(18/05,7800m),C3(19/05,8300m),Smt(21/05)
accidents: Lhakpa Gyalzen Sherpa acute altitude sickness
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col.

  Yan was only climbing member, but many Chinese [7 reporters/cameramen from a Heilongjiang TV station] to film team on $1 million budget, and some went to at least 7800m and maybe to 8300m. A young (19 years) Sherpa from Asian Trekking went to top on 21 May with Yan; Russell Brice saw that on the final summit slope at about 8750m, then clouds closed in - it was very windy there. The summit Sherpa said they reached top and the Chinese (Yan) was never seen by him again; he returned to C3 alone after having left Yan alone. Russians from Skripko's team said they saw a body at about 8750m that must have been Yan (there had never been a body there before). Inaki Ochoa said his body was found above Second Step clutching 2 oxygen bottles to his chest. Brice said his body was on top of an oxygen bottle. 

  On 21 May Gia Tortladze found Lhakpa Gyalzen alone and unable to descend and Tortladze brought him down from 7500m put him in a tent with no one to care for him, although Chinese were descending from 7700m. Brice on 22 May organized rescue, brought him to ABC and gave him a lot of medical help (he was 53 years old) and as of 11 June was in Teaching Hospital, Kathmandu, paralyzed on one side. As of 20 July out of hospital and receiving treatment that may enable him to walk but never climb again.

  Sherpas on this expedition (Asian Trekking 23/6/00 and 20/7/00):
    Lhakpa Tshering, 17/7/76, Khumjung, 1st 8000m summit
    Lhakpa Gyalzen, 10/11/48, Pangboche
    Mingma Dorje, 22/7/65, Phortse


  Summary paraphrased from various Chinese web sites:

  Yan Geng-Hua, from Harbin in Heilongjiang, was born in 1958. From 1983 he was engaged in extreme sports. In 1986, he ran to Jiayuguan from Shanhaiguan, becoming the first to finish the Great Wall of China by long-distance running. In recent years, he set his sights on climbing Everest so as to be the first Chinese person to climb Everest alone. In 1999 on his first attempt to climb Everest, he was trapped for four days by blizzards at 7800m, before being forced to descend because of illness and bad weather. 

  In March 2000, Yan Geng-Hua once again went to Tibet to resume his quest. After spending time in Lhasa making preparations and adjusting to the higher altitude, he departed for Everest and arrived at base camp on April 14, accompanied by 3 Nepalese Sherpas and 7 reporters & cameramen from a television station in Harbin who were hoping to conduct live interviews with Yan during his ascent to the summit. During the first few weeks, the team established ABC at 6500m and subsequent camps at the North Col, 7800m, and the last at 8300m. 

  On May 14, Yan began his final summit attempt accompanied by Harbin reporter Chen Xiao-Jin and two Nepalese Sherpas, 23-year-old Lhakpa Tshering and 53-year-old Lhakpa Gyalzen, who were hired to carry the television video equipment needed for the live interviews.

  The group reached 7800m on May 18. The next day they departed for the highest camp at 8300m. The television crew struggled to keep pace with Yan and at 12:00 CST at 8150m, they conducted their final interview with Chen gasping for breath during their conversation. Chen and Lhakpa Gyalzen then returned to the 7800m camp while Yan and Lhakpa Tshering continued up. This was the last time Chen ever saw Yan.

  Yan and Lhakpa Tshering camped the night of May 19 at 8300m and planned to summit the following day, but a sudden change in weather brought strong winds and blizzard conditions forcing many foreign climbers to descend. But Yan refused to give up, so he and Lhakpa waited out the storm and went for the summit the next morning leaving their tents at 2:30 am on May 21. They summited at about 11:00 am CST (9:45 NST) and remained on the summit for about 20 minutes before starting their descent. Lhakpa was soon separated from Yan and he descended slowly alone to the 8300m camp. He never saw Yan again. Yan's body was spotted at 8750m a few days later by a Russian team and has also been seen by other teams in subsequent seasons.

  Meanwhile, Chen and Lhakpa Gyalzen waited fruitlessly two days for the return of the summit team, but they never showed up. Chen and Lhakpa Gyalzen then descended, but the Sherpa became incapacitated by his long stay at high altitude. He was found alone at 7500m by the Georgian team, dazed, confused and unable to see, and slowly he was escorted down the mountain to the North Col on May 21.

  The next day Nima Tsering sent two Tibetan Mountain School trainees, Dorje Karsang and Ngawang Dhondup, up to the North Col to retrieve Lhakpa Gyalzen who was in critical condition, unable to speak or drink. On May 23, a team of 11 yaks and three more Tibetan trainees brought him back base camp where Canadian doctors gave him emergency medical treatment. By 7:00 pm, his eyes were open and he was able to drink, but he still could not speak. The next day he was evacuated to Kathmandu. 

  Later that evening at 9:30 pm Lhakpa Tshering also returned to base camp, physically weak, but able to eat noodles. Lhakpa Tshering said that he and Yan had run out of oxygen at 8300m on May 20, the day before their summit attempt. During their descent from the summit, the two separated and Yan never returned to the 8300m camp.

  Nima Tsering, a liaison officer from the Tibet Mountaineering Association, said: "Now we can be 100 percent sure that Yan summited Mount Qomolangma [based on interviews with Lhakpa Tshering]. On the 21st morning, a Dutch team from the Nepal side, saw two people by telescope very close to the top."

  Chen Xiao-Jin won a prestigious Chinese press prize in 2006 for his television interview with Yan on Everest.


expid: EVER00144
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Nyima Tsering
smtdate: 2000-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 8500m due to exhaustion and difficult route
campsites: xxx(14/05,8500m)
agency: None
routememo:
  High point just below First Step.

  Nima Tsering had no team members and little climbing experience; had been TMA's liaison officer for several years. Moved up alone with his own tent. Found route difficulties too great at 8500m.

  Source of above information: 
    Ivan Aristov, Russian Everest N
    Inaki Ochoa, Spanish Everest N
    Russell Brice, another Everest North leader who went to TMA, Lhasa on
      13 May after a four days in KTM


expid: EVER00145
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Wangyal, Gaya
sponsor: Beijing University-Tibet University Joint Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2000-04-08
smtdate: 2000-05-11
termdate: 2000-05-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m on directive from Chinese government
campsites: BC(08/04),xxx(11,18/05,7900m)
agency: None
routememo:
  Xinhua News Agency, Lhasa, April 16 - Chinese university students arrived in Lhasa today. The team formally team began its adaptation training in Lhasa, and is expected by the end of May to early June to climb the world's highest peak, Mount Everest. 

  Joint-team captain from the Tibetan climbers and serving as leader is Wangyal; the Tibetan climbers are under the command of Gaya. Five are university students of Beijing University: Chen Yi, Chen Guang, Lin Chi-kin and two are from Tibet University: Sonam Sambie and Gesang; they all are in school students. 

  To help students with climbing, the Tibet Mountaineering Association also is sending a five-Tibetan mountaineering team, including Chimi and Tenzing Dorje, world-class mountain sports masters; Qimi has summited Mount Everest twice, Tenzing Dorje has summited once. The other members are the Gaya, Gyalbu, and Duobujie, all national-level sports climbing masters.
   
  According to reports, the Chinese college students will be with the joint team in Lhasa for 10 days for the adaptation training and preparation for mountaineering; by the end of April they will stationed in the base camp of Mount Qomolangma.


  Expedition termination notes:

  On May 25 at 9:00 am, the team started from 7028m to go to 7900m according to plan with intent to go to 8300m on May 26 and to summit on May 27. There had been good weather for several days.

  At 2:00 pm when the team was at 7500m, the team was suddenly ordered down by walkie-talkie call from ABC at 6500m.


  Termination summary paraphrased from various Chinese web sites:

  The expedition was terminated for two official reasons:

  (1) The Chinese government and General Administration of Sport of China had just issued a directive to avoid fatalities in mountaineering, due to the recent death of Yan-Geng-Hua on 21 May (4 days earlier).

  (2) The monsoon season in Tibet was coming and the timing was poor for the safety of the team members. The leaders of the Tibetan Mountaineering Association said that the General Administration of Sport had requested the termination of this climb.
   
  Web Site translator's observations:

  This shows the degree of government's control on sport activities in China. Since most mountaineering activities are controlled by the Chinese government, the government can stop an ongoing expedition even when the members were about to summit and there was sufficient sponsorship from a private company (the internet company Chinaren.com in this case). 
   
  It is also understandable why the Chinese government wanted to stop this climb. My personal interpretation is it was because the Beijing University Mountaineering team is an amateur team and the government officials did not want any high-profile fatalities from this team, given the special prestige attached to this university in China and the fact that there had been several previous deaths during other expeditions by this team.


expid: EVER00146
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Georgia
leaders: Gia Tortladze
bcdate: 2000-04-18
smtdate: 2000-05-20
termdate: 2000-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 8600m due to bad winds and very tired
campsites: BC(18/04),ABC(24/04,6400m),C1(06/05,7000m),C2(18/05,7800m),C3(19/05,8300m),xxx(20/05,8600m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col.

  Climbed with Noguchi sometimes. 27 April Tortladze tried to go to North Col alone, reached 6800m and back to ABC because of wind. 28 April to BC. 6 May again up and this time to C1 6 May, 7 May to ABC again, wind C1 to BC. 15 May to ABC, 17 May to C1, 18 May to C2, 19th to C3. 20th May about 20 people went for top: Tortladze started C3 for top at 2:30 am with Tashi, reached 8600-8700m, very strong wind and taking with him Sherpa Lhakpa Gyalzen from Pangboche on Chinese expedition. (This Sherpa was dangerously confused unable to move alone, had no crampons or climbing gear, no gloves on his hands - Tortladze found gloves in Sherpa's rucksack, his jacket open) and Tortladze brought him very slowly to C1. Now climb finished for Tortladze because strong winds now and he was very tired having been at high altitudes long time.

  In spring 99 Tortladze had claimed summit, but did not actually get all the way there: Russian Everest expedition said 26 May he told them he had not reached top in 99, was busy taking pictures; now back to get to top this time.


expid: EVER00147
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Denmark
leaders: Per Bager
bcdate: 2000-04-01
smtdate: 2000-05-20
termdate: 2000-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 8500m due to fatal fall
campsites: BC(01-03/04),C1(7000m),C2(10-15/04,7800m),C3(19/05,8300m),xxx(20/05,8500m)
accidents: Stoltz fatal fall
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  High point at North Face.

  19 May to C3, 20 May started up together but Bager turned back at 8400m while Stoltz to 8500m where he fell at 6:30-7:00 am 20 May (NST) and probably blown down in very strong wind (no rope there) and body fell 250m down North Face from C3 and head opened by fall and Spanish reached him trying to self arrest, face down.


  Brice - 11 Oct 2000

  Stoltz was seen by other teams falling from about 8450-8500m for at least 250m. 7-8 Spaniards were there at same time and one of them. Alberto Zervain (Oiarzabal-Alvano expedition) went down to deeply unconscious man who was "totally smashed up" with very major head injuries. While taking backpack off him, man involuntarily tried to stand up and fell over and disappeared off the route somewhere.


expid: EVER00148
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Miguel Angel Vidal
sponsor: Ipix Everest 2000 - Third Pole
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2000-04-19
smtdate: 2000-05-20
termdate: 2000-05-29
termnote: Abandoned at 8700m due to bad weather, wind storm, snow condition
campsites: BC(19/04,5100m),ABC(25/04,6450m),C1(27/04,7040m),C2(08/05,7700m),C3(16/05,8300m),xxx(20/05,8700m)
accidents: Alonso fractured right-hand index finger in BC, left the camp on May 6 (left Nepal around May 11)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at TBC - (stayed 4 days)
  C1 at North Col
  C2 on North Ridge
  C3 below Yellow Band
  High point at below the Second Step.

  Vidal and real left BC on 17 to C2, 18th to C3. From C3 on 19th at midnight about 5:30 am of 20th reached below the Second Step back to C3.

  Left BC on 25th, stayed till 27th in C2, then back to BC (Vidal and Corominas).

  * First tried the Messner route up to North Col. Route condition was bad. Avalanche on May 14, decided not to approach that route.


expid: EVER00149
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Hans Van Der Meulen
sponsor: Panorama Everest 2000
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2000-04-19
smtdate: 2000-05-20
termdate: 2000-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 8600m due to bad weather, wind storm, snow conditions
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(19/04,5200m),IntermedBC(12/04,5800m),ABC(13/04,6400m),C1(19/04,7000m),C2(23/04,7500m),C3(08/05,7900m),C4(09/05,8350m),xxx(20/05,8600m)

routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  High point below the Second Step.

  On 10th of May leader attempted for the summit. He started this attempt leaving all other groups and climbers behind so that is he was the one who attempted first of this season to make the summit. He had started climbing at 2 am of 10th May from C4 and turned around from the altitude of 8400m because of bad weather.

  Second time leader attempted for summit on 20th of May. He started climbing at 11 pm May 20, arrived C4 at 5:30 am of 21st May and reached the foot of First Step (8500m). He had to turn around from this altitude because of strong wind.

  Fixed rope used in the glacier, North Col which was being fixed by the Sherpas of Russian group.

  Hendrik Wesselius attempted to climb at 2 am of 20th May for summit. He started from C4 and reached the height of 8600m, below the Second Step. Had to turn around because of strong wind.

  BC Manager and doctor reached the North Col.


expid: EVER00150
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Wilfried Studer
sponsor: Austrian Tibet Expedition
bcdate: 2000-05-10
smtdate: 2000-05-16
termdate: 2000-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to strong wind
campsites: BC(10/05),ABC(12/05,6400m),C1(14/05,7000m),xxx(16/05,7500m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  High point at end of snow ridge towards North Ridge.

  ABC to 7500m and back BC because weather not favorable and forecast good weather few days later. Up ABC 20 May, three times up to C1 but very time strong winds. To C1 (23, 24 and 26 May) but above North Col now strong winds, so finished on 26 May after return to 7500m.


expid: EVER00151
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Hans Goger
bcdate: 2000-05-05
smtdate: 2000-05-26
termdate: 2000-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to strong wind
campsites: BC(05/05),ABC(06/05,6400m),C1(14/05,7000m),xxx(26/05,7500m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  23 May to C1 and stayed there and when Studers joined him on 26 May. Both descended together and climb finished because strong winds higher after having reached 7500m that day. Climbed much of the time with the Studers.


expid: EVER00152
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Andorra
leaders: Nani Duro
sponsor: Everest Andorra Expedition
countries: Spain
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2000-04-11
smtdate: 2000-05-20
termdate: 2000-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 8650m due to storm
campsites: BC(11/04,5100m),ABC(17/04,6400m),C1(22/04,7000m),C2(06/05,7700m),C3(19/05,8300m),xxx(20/05,8650m)
accidents: Rafols got nose frostbite, but will heal
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col.

  Duro, Rafols and Ribas started climbing from C3 at 11:30 pm of 19th May. Started storming when they reached the height of 8500m. All the sky was covered by black clouds. Other expedition group members and themselves decided to go down from the altitude of 8650m because the weather was getting worse and worse.

  Three climbers came down to C3 at 8:30 am and came further down to ABC at 8 pm.
  Rafols lost his way while traversing from ridge to C3 so reached C3 2-3 hours after teammates. Sherpas were not in good shape so they could not go beyond C3.

  Soulie left BC one week before the last group - mildly sick.


expid: EVER00153
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Silvio Mondinelli
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2000-04-16
smtdate: 2000-05-20
termdate: 2000-05-29
termnote: Abandoned at 8600m due to bad weather, wind and snow
campsites: BC(16/04,5200m),ABC(20/04,5400m),C1(24/04,7000m),C2(30/04,7900m),C3(03/05,8300m),xxx(20/05,8600m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Mondinelli to C2 on 18th, C3 on 19th, on 20th attempted reached up to Second Step, but very cold and snowfall - very difficult to move.

  Other member Merelli went up to C2 and then remained in BC. He left Nepal on 3rd.


expid: EVER00154
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Inaki Ochoa
sponsor: Retena Odisea Everest 2000
bcdate: 2000-04-13
smtdate: 2000-05-15
termdate: 2000-05-28
termnote: Abandoned at 8650m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(13/04),ABC(18/04,6450m),C1(22/04,7000m),C2(02/05,7600m),C3(14/05,8000m),xxx(15,20/05,8650m)
accidents: Aquerreta broke rib coughing on 20 May; Lete 16 May had cerebral accident
agency: Sea to Summit Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C2 at lowest spring
  High point at bottom of 2nd Step.

  C2 not so high as others because planned to go for summit attempt from ABC to C2 and so on 14 May went to C3 and 15 May Inaki and Russians left at same time (he went to climb with them because they were on oxygen and could make trail), but he had underestimated difficulty of route just below First Step where new snow on rocks and no fixed ropes. Inaki decided to go back; down at 5:00 am to ABC same morning. 

  20 May again at 3:30 am from C3 with Aquerreta (Inaki had gone on 19 May from ABC to C3) but Aquerreta had left at 11:00 pm on 19th with many others). Inaki reached others, but before Second Step at 4:30 am when Antonio and many others who had stopped at 3:30 am and later because terrible wind which got worse and they waited one hour or more not knowing what to do. Inaki to First Step only and knew he must retreat to stay alive - both down to ABC. 

  Decided to stop 27th May after other members went to C2 hoping to summit, but winds made them to retreat.


expid: EVER00155
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Guillermo Banales
sponsor: Basque Expedition to Everest
ascent1: 370
countries: Argentina
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2000-04-17
smtdate: 2000-05-27
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2000-05-28
othersmts: Gokyo Peak before Chinese BC
campsites: BC(17/04,5000m),ABC(19/04,6300m),C1(23/04,7000m),C2(29/04,7800m),C3(15/05,8300m),Smt(27/05)
accidents: Gonzalez seriously frostbitten fingers; Pasaban slightly frostbitten toes
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Gonzalez and Sherpa started climbing from C3 at 1:30 am of 27th and reached the summit at 1:30 pm of 27th May. They spent 5 minutes on the top and took photographs. It was windy and cloudy on the top.

  Gonzalez could not come down to C3. He spent a night on the ridge about 8600m. He had arrived there at about 7:30 pm of 27th May. Gonzalez came down to C3 at 9 am of 28th May and the same day he came down to ABC. Members of the team helped him from the height of 7500m to come down to ABC. He had 8 fingers frostbitten. Sherpas came down to C3 at C3 at 8 pm of 27th May.

  Gonzalez finished his oxygen while spending night on the ridge. He spent night without sleeping bag.

  - Summiters had used oxygen from C3
  - Banales reached 8650m without oxygen and Feijoo reached 8035m without oxygen
  - Navas reached C3
  - Paseban reached 8600m with oxygen, had toe frostbite
  - Lisi on 27 May reached 8500m and Lopez reached 8000m
  - Lisi retreated because strong wind, no rope fixed and very difficult higher, 
    so down to C3 while Banales and Lhakpa Gyalzen went on to summit.


expid: EVER00131
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Sebastian Alvaro
sponsor: Everest TVE Expedition Spanish 2000
bcdate: 2000-04-12
smtdate: 2000-05-20
termdate: 2000-05-31
termnote: Abandoned at 8650m due to cold and windy weather
campsites: BC(12/04),ABC(17/04,6350m),C1(22/04,7050m),C2(28/04,7800m),C3(19/05,8350m),xxx(20/05,8650m)
accidents: Juanito frostbitten nose already healing
achievment: Attempted Mallory-Irvine climb
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Chinese BC
  C1 at North Col
  High point at bottom of Second Step.

  20 May summit party left C3 2:30 am (Chinese time) and arrived Second Step 7:30 am: Juanito, Latorre, Vallejo and Zerain reached this high point. Oscar Cadiach to 8450m and cold [acting as Mallory] and must go back to C3 with slight pneumonia; Bereziartua and Querejeta to 8550m also cold, wind and cloud. Juanito down because weather changed with clouds coming and temperature dropped 10-12 degrees and 35 km/hr winds. "Not possible summit without oxygen - lucky not higher on mountain and when weather changed." 

  24 May Zerain left ABC for non-stop climb to top but got only to C3 when strong wind stopped him and returned same day to ABC. 

  Juanito to Everest North sans-oxygen.

  Zerain acted as Irvine and Cadiach as Mallory in bid at 1924 climb.


  Everest TVE Expedition - 4 June 2000 & 23 Oct 2014, led by Alvaro

  One member of a Spanish expedition to the north side of Everest in the spring of 2000 wanted to re-enact the 1924 British climb of Everest via North Col route by George Mallory. Oscar Cadiach wore clothing that were exact copies of the clothes worn Geoge Mallory -- made of the same fabrics and designed just like his. The idea was to test their sustainability in the bitter cold at high altitude on Everests.

  On 20 May 2000, Cadiach reached 8450m, then turned back because he was extremely cold. The 1920's outfit he was wearing did not give enough protection from the weather. He descended to C3 (8350m) with a slight case of pneumonia.


expid: EVER00132
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Karl Kobler
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Everest Expedition 2000
ascent1: 343,351
countries: Czech Republic, Germany, Nepal, New Zealand
bcdate: 2000-04-20
smtdate: 2000-05-17
smttime: 1015
termdate: 2000-05-28
campsites: BC(20/04),ABC(22/04,6400m),C1(27/04,7100m),C2(15/05,7850m),C3(16/05,8350m),Smt(17,19/05)
accidents: Durga Tamang lung infection and left
achievment: 1st Sherpa woman to top from north
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col.

  17 May left C3 4:00 am NST Kobler, Pemba Dorje and Hurschler together (Kobler and Pemba Dorje on oxygen, Hurschler without). 10:15 am Kobler and Pemba Dorje on top, Hurschler without oxygen at 11:30 am; Kobler and Pemba Dorje after only 2 Russians; Hurschler last from north side on 17th. All slept in C3 that night.

  19 May Fahner left C2 with oxygen at midnight of 18/19 May and went directly to top at 7:00 am, 1st from North (and probably from others side). Pemba Doma left C3 at 2:00 am with Japanese teams Sherpas (some relatives), on top at 9:20 am with Sherpas and slept in C3. Pemba Doma used oxygen from C2 from C3 to top. 

  On 24 May Chassot on C3 but no higher and down 25 May - decided 25 May expedition finished.

  Pemba Doma: Kobler at BC saw she could not used crampons, jummar: some Sherpas tought her at ABC and she learned incredibly "quickly." Kobler told her she could not climb unless knew and she did. Later he told her she must climb with Sherpa on fixed ropes already present; she climbed with Sherpas. She was very strong to his surprise and had "motivation, self confidence and ambition."

  Pemba Doma - 8 June 2000: She already knew how to used harness and crampons and carabinier from ascent of Island Peak to its summit in 1996. Her cousin brother-in-law, Nawang Yongden, who works in Rolwaling Trekking and is very experienced climber (3x8000m summits) was BC sirdar and he gave her a lot of advice on what to wear when on mountain; not to let head get cold by its touching tent; how to use oxygen system; to acclimatize by going high, coming down, then going higher. She had to carry all her loads herself because Kobler told expeditions Sherpas not to help her and much of the time she climbed alone. Japanese Sherpas cooked for her at C3, helped her to carry one oxygen bottle to top and let her follow them in their footsteps to top.

  She likes mountains and likes to climb but cannot explain why she likes climbing - likes rock climbing especially. Would like to climb Dhaulagiri I: likes "how it looks." Thinks of leading a woman's expedition after 1-2 years but doesn't [know] women to recruit (would be Europeans and Nepalese).


expid: GAN200101
peakid: GAN2
year: 2000
route1: SE Ridge via Ganesh VI
nation: Japan
leaders: Hideki Yoshida
sponsor: Shinshu University Ganesh Himal Expedition to Ganesh II
approach: Buri Gandaki->Yaru Khola
bcdate: 2000-04-09
smtdate: 2000-05-23
termdate: 2000-05-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to difficulty of SE Ridge beyond Ganesh VI
othersmts: Climbed Ganesh VI (GAN6-001-01)
campsites: BC(09/04,4200m),C1(20/04,5100m),C1(20/04),C2(29/04,5900m),C3(12/05,6700m),SmtGanesh-VI(23/05)
achievment: Probably 1st ascent of Ganesh VI
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC  on south side of glacier (south of point at 4170 on HMG Survey Dept map)
  ABC south of Ganesh II end of snow plateau above icefall
  C2  southeast of Ganesh VI 
  C3  south of C2 at top of rock wall
  High point at SE Ridge beyond Ganesh VI summit.

  From Ganesh VI two summiters tried to continue on ridge from Ganesh VI northwest to Ganesh II, but very difficult narrow ridge with cornices and gave up one-third way at about 6700m altitude and returned to BC same day, 23 May, and climb finished. Fixed 3000m rope.

  1980 Japanese probably did not reach true summit of Ganesh VI, but snow summit south of it by the same route, which they followed after failure from West Face.


expid: GYAC00101
peakid: GYAC
year: 2000
route1: SE Ridge (intended)
nation: Japan
leaders: Takashi Shiro
sponsor: Osaka Kiho Alpine Club Gyachung Kang Expedition 2000 Spring
bcdate: 2000-04-01
smtdate: 2000-04-24
termdate: 2000-05-01
termnote: Abandoned at 5600m due to no route across glacier
othersmts: Attempted Hunchi (HCHI-001-01)
campsites: BC(01/04,5200m),ABC(04/04,5200m),xxx(24/04,5600m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at Ngozumba Glacier
  C1 at Ngozumba Glacier (same altitude as BC)
  High point at Ngozumba Glacier west of Nup La.

  Ngojumba Glacier very difficult, many crevasses, some over 5 meters wide. Stayed 20 days on glacier, but despite trying four different routes to reach Nup La site for C1, we could not succeed. "Never touched" the mountain. Last winter little snow so now icefall broken and many open crevasses.

  5600m reached by Ang Phurba, Mingma Nuru and Ang Tsering Sherpa.

  After abandoning Gyachung Kang on 27 April, attempted by a SW Ridge to reach point 7018m (Hunchi), but could not go above 5600m because steep difficult rock and ice. 30 April to Pt 6283m on ridge running southeast by all 4 members and same 3 Sherpas as reached 5600m in attempting Gyachung Kang.


expid: JANU00101
peakid: JANU
year: 2000
route1: N Face direct-E Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Athol Whimp
sponsor: Australian Jannu Expedition
ascent1: 21st
countries: New Zealand
bcdate: 2000-03-21
smtdate: 2000-05-16
termdate: 2000-05-25
campsites: BC(21/03,4500m),C1(06/04,5050m),C2(09/04,5400m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Traditional Treks
routememo:
  BC at north side of Kumbuka Glacier terrace.

  Had intended to do new direct route with no fixed camps. Attempted twice, 22 April to 24 April up to 5950m and stopped by bad storm on 23rd night with spindrift avalanching, so down on 24 April to C2 and 25 April to BC. 1 May back to C2 and next attempt on 5 May; departed 3:30 am and reached 6050m but on 6 May at 7:00 am and heard crashing above and rock fall which destroyed hanging tent like portaledge, narrowly missing members; so down again with lot of rock fall and bad weather. 

  Decided on 6 May to change route to Japanese '76 spring route, so down to C2 6 May and BC on 7 May from same BC, back to same C2 on 10 May. 11 May fixed 200m rope at the base of rock and ice buttress and slept in C2. 12 May from C2 4:00 am, up ropes and then alpine-style climb above; biv at 6200m; 13 May at 6500m; 14 May at 6750m; 15 May left 6750m, 1:30 am with no biv equipment except small stove, a bit of fuel, 1 rope and some ice screws and pitons, reached East Ridge at 7250m 9:30 am and looked up to the summit and was much more difficult than expected but kept going along ridge with intermittent snowfall and winds: at 5:30 pm storm worsening and Athol's hair showing electricity and helmet sparking so got into cave at 7600m, 10-20m below high point and spent night there shivering in -18 degrees C temperature. 16 May left ice cave 6:30 am and got to top at 10:00 am and stayed 1/2 hour and then down and other member lost footing at 7600m and fell down 10-15m on belay from below by Athol and passed him but only bruised shoulder but not serious. Down in deteriorating weather and when descended from ridge very windy with spindrift and soon dark (had headlamps): back to 6750m where had tent and reached it 9:40 pm. Stayed there on 17th and 18th to C2. Too exhausted to go to BC next day, so on 20th in terrible weather to BC including very deep new snow.


expid: KANG00107
peakid: KANG
year: 2000
route1: SW Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Um Hong-Gil
sponsor: 2000 Korean Kangchenjunga Expedition
ascent1: 55th
bcdate: 2000-04-03
smtdate: 2000-05-19
smttime: 0620
termdate: 2000-05-23
accidents: Nepal cook very sick from altitude; 1 Sherpa died because of brain damage from falling ice
agency: Windhorse Trekking
campsites:
  BC(03/04,5400m),C1(11/04,6100m),C2(19/04,6400m),C3(21/04,7100m),C4(17/05,7600m),C5(18/05,8500m),Smt(19/05)

routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at big snowfield
  C2 at snow face
  C3 above many seracs on small snow plateau
  C4 at Great Shelf
  C5 on summit bid (without oxygen).

  22 April route making up from C3 among many seracs when Ang Dawa Tamang was hit by fist-size piece of ice hit him at 7300m on cheek and fell 5-7m down. Members and 5 Sherpas carried him to C3, 23rd he's "little Ok" but carried down on mattress when at 10:00 am at 6900m he died. Had not been wearing helmet (none of team wore helmets). Took back to BC 28 April and 1 May body carried to KTM by helicopter. 

  All stayed in BC 2 weeks because depression. No motivation, not able to decide to go up, but decided to make one try to go to top. 15 May returned to C1, 16th to C3, 17th to C4 and stayed there. 18th am 2:30 up from C4 only 2 Koreans and 2 Indians together. Indians at 8200m turned back because deep snow made them too tired while Um and Park went on up; at 8500m at 8:00 pm made biv (unprepared and no more food and water) on very steep ice, rock-snow mixed with little space to biv. Spent night sitting on small shelf clipped into old rope: cold but gentle wind and only light snowfall. 19 May 4:50 am started up again and 6:20 am on top with sunshine and no wind. On summit 1 hour for ceremony to remember 2 Korean members who died Um's expedition in '99 (had photos and Korean flag which left in plastic at top). Indians on top on 21 May found photos and flag and brought flag down (they kept flag). Um and Park returned C3 1:00 pm and slept there. 20 May to BC at 12:30 pm. Um intends to go to K2 this summer despite his fatigue on return to KTM.


expid: KANG00101
peakid: KANG
year: 2000
route1: SW Face
nation: UK
leaders: Alan Hinkes
sponsor: Challenge 8000 to Kangchenjunga
bcdate: 2000-04-30
smtdate: 2000-05-28
termdate: 2000-05-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to fatigue
campsites: BC(30/04,5400m),C1(05/05,6200m),C2(11/05,7000m),C3(19/05,7600m),xxx(28/05,7900m)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  BC same as Koreans, Indians, Swiss
  C1 same as British and all others
  C3 above Great Shelf
  High point at snow slope above Great Shelf.

  Climbed with Joos to C2 once (on 17 May), but otherwise climbed on his own with his Sherpa Pasang only to C1. 26 May left BC and slept at C2 (now no one else on mountain): 27th to C3; 28th up (now above clouds) hoping and wishing to go to top but know it was a long shot, that he would get worn out before top and did get tired and worried about avalanche danger so only to 7900m. Slept on 28th at C2 and late night 29th at BC (Pasang had taken down tent at C1). On 29th snow bridge collapsed under him and he whacked his elbow and aggravated old bone injury from 3 years ago. When he was climbing above 7600m he was above the clouds below which meant snowfall and when he descended below 7600m, the avalanche danger was greater than above and there were small avalanches falling as he went down.


expid: KANG00102
peakid: KANG
year: 2000
route1: SW Face
nation: India
leaders: Sunil Dutt Sharma
sponsor: Indian ITBP Kangchenjunga Expedition
ascent1: 56th
approach: Hile->Yamphudin->Tseram->Yalung Kang Glacier
bcdate: 2000-04-18
smtdate: 2000-05-10
smttime: 1545
termdate: 2000-05-29
campsites: BC(18/04,5430m),C1(23/04,6400m),C2(02/05,6800m),C3(06/05,7300m),C4(09/05,7700m),Smt(20/05)
accidents: None except illness of Pasang Butti [IM 26 account says that Deep Lobsang was the ill climber]
agency: Mountain Makalu
routememo:
  BC at Yalung Glacier
  C1 at above Yalung Glacier
  C3 on plateau.

  First summit attempt reached 8400m and turned due to sickness of Pasang Bhutti Sherpa (altitude). On first summit attempt there was also Pradeep Kumar, Ram Herra and Deep Lopsang on this attempt.

  Pasang Norbu and Dawa Wangchuk are from Makalu area (this is their first 8000m peak summit).


expid: KANG00103
peakid: KANG
year: 2000
route1: SW Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Andre Georges
sponsor: Swiss Kangchenjunga Expedition 2000
bcdate: 2000-04-05
smtdate: 2000-05-09
termdate: 2000-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to too much snow and small team
campsites: BC(05/04,5400m),C1(10/04,6100m),C2(17/04,7200m),xxx(09,14,24/05,7800m)
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  High point on Great Shelf at British expedition's C3.

  Georges 50 days in BC: "so long crazy." Did not make C3 but twice slept in British camp and in Joos tent at 7800-7900m and Bonuin there also to 7800-7900m, but did not sleep there. Many times up and down, 7 times to 7000m and always new snow falling in afternoon so down again. Georges to 7800m with one Sherpa Pemba Manaslu (other visits to 7800m were without Sherpas).

  Abandoned climb because so much snowfall and "little team it is difficult." On 22 May decided to make last attempt for top and ordered porters for 27 May at BC.


expid: KANG00104
peakid: KANG
year: 2000
route1: E Ridge-N Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Willi Bauer
sponsor: Austrian Friends of Nature Expedition 2000
approach: From Sikkim->Lachen->Zema Thakathang->Yabuk->Green Lake
bcdate: 2000-04-13
smtdate: 2000-05-07
termnote: Abandoned on 7-8th May due to very soft snow & bad weather
campsites: BC(13/04,4700m),ABC(18/04,5250m),C1(21/04,5625m),xxx(07-08/05,6200m)
agency: None
routememo:
  BC  at Green Lake
  ABC at Zemu Glacier
  C1  at bottom of East Ridge
  High point at East Ridge.

  After making C1 on 21 April and sleeping there, down to BC to rest and to take up equipment especially rope. One group of Arnold, Maringer, Jaeger and Wasserbauer up to C1 to forge route about and reached about 6200m and back to C1. Next day second group of Gruber, Maringer, Miss Bauer, Kritzinger and Putz from C1 but got only 1 or 2m higher and down to C1. These attempts were on very sharp East Ridge covered by impassible snow and on left side of ridge snow chest-deep and also impassible, so in C1 team decided not possible to continue climb and all down next day to ABC. Wasserbauer, was leader of first party and Putz led second one.


expid: KANG00105
peakid: KANG
year: 2000
route1: SW Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Norbert Joos
bcdate: 2000-04-24
smtdate: 2000-05-20
termdate: 2000-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to deep snow, avalanche danger and no belief in better conditions
campsites: BC(24/04,5400m),C1(05/05,6100m),C2(10/05,6900m),C3(19/05,7600m),xxx(20/05,7900m)
agency: Himalayan High Country Treks
routememo:
  BC at above junction of 2 glaciers north grass island
  C3 at above Great Shelf
  High point at SW Face.

  Climbed with Hinkes to C1 on 5 May. On 20th May 2:00 am Joos started up from C3 before Hinkes but with Joos was Nima Wangdi Sherpa (Kharikhola) in Indian footprints (was just behind Indians). Nima turned back after 1 hour (Hinkes now 150m behind them) because cold feet. Joos turned back at 4:00 am because worried about avalanches and not confident of success with present lack of fuel and acclimatization. Returned to C3 for brief sleep and down with Nima and Hinkes. All 3 to BC. 

  Joos expected to make successful ascent starting a few days later but 21-24 May bad weather. 26 May all 3 started up again and reached C2, but a lot of snow up there and decided to go to bring down C2 and climb finished so Joos down to BC same day with Nima. Abandoned climb because not enough time left to succeed in present snow conditions which had avalanche danger and no good prospect of better weather immediately. Nima stayed later to climb with Hinkes who probably left BC today. Only 3 good weather days: snowfall almost every day.


expid: KANG00106
peakid: KANG
year: 2000
route1: SW Face
nation: UK
leaders: Stevan Jackson
sponsor: British Services Expedition to Kangchenjunga
ascent1: 54th
bcdate: 2000-04-11
smtdate: 2000-05-13
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2000-05-23
campsites: BC(11/04,5400m),C1(19/04,6200m),C2(26/04,6700m),C3(30/04,7200m),C4(12/05,7600m),Smt(13/05)
accidents: John Foden had cerebral edema; Cole had frostbite
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  Sherpas:
    Nima Dorje (Beding) had climbed almost all the 8000m peaks in Nepal; had climbed Everest. 
    Pemba Norbu (Beding) 26 years old (this was his first 8000er).

  The summit team left C4, on top at 2:00 pm. They spent 15 minutes on top and went down to C4 in 4 hours. It was a perfect summit day (in terms of weather). The whole team reached the summit without the use oxygen.

  Adrian Cole got frostbite on summit day. His fingers and toes were slightly purple; he will lose a little bit of skin but nothing else.

  John Foden used oxygen on 16 May from C2 to C3 due to altitude sickness he had very slight cerebral edema, but was Ok once he got to C3. John Foden and Roderick McArthur attempted to climb to summit but only got to C4 and returned due to Foden's illness.

  Neil Greenwood left BC on 19 April; he had severe intestinal problems, cramping and dysentery.

  * Almost everyone got to C4 and had a great expedition.
  * Koreans fixed most of the rope. 
  * Koreans sirdar was killed by a falling serac fell and killed him (at C3).


expid: KTEG00101
peakid: KTEG
year: 2000
route1: N Face-NW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Valeri Babanov
sponsor: Babanov Expedition to Kangtega
approach: Lukla->Mera Peak
bcdate: 2000-04-17
smtdate: 2000-06-02
termdate: 2000-06-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to bad weather and avalanche danger
campsites: BC(17/04,4700m),C1(26/04,5300m),C2(13/05,5700m),xxx(02/06,6600m)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  BC  near Mera Peak BC
  ABC/C1 at 300m above Hinku Glacier on east side
  C2  on Hinku Nuptse Glacier
  High point on NW Ridge.

  Tried to do alpine-style ascent from high C1 (5300m) for 2 weeks but bad weather prevented him from going above 5900m. But bottom part of face too much rock and snow avalanching in bad weather (meaning snowfall - so shifted tactics and 13 placed high C2 at 5700m and fixed rope from 5800m long flat area above icefall to 6200m. Spent 10 days fixing rope and down to to BC because food finished and sent cook to Lukla to buy cooking gas, kerosene and food. Returned to high C2 (5700m) on 27 May and started up after 4 days bad weather on 31 May, placed one more rope at about 6250m, down in more bad weather to C2; again up 1 June.

  Wife to high C2, but did no climbing.


expid: LHOT00101
peakid: LHOT
year: 2000
route1: W Face
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Tomaz Zerovnik
sponsor: Slovenian Lhotse Expedition 2000
ascent1: 55 w/Ital
countries: Croatia
bcdate: 2000-04-20
smtdate: 2000-05-19
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2000-05-26
campsites: BC(20/04,5250m),C1(25/04,6000m),C2(03/05,6400m),C3(05/05,7300m),C4(18/05,7800m),Smt(19/05)
accidents: Jezovsek snowblindness on 21 May and frostbite on 22 May
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in West Cwm
  C3 on West Face
  C4 on West Face.

  19 May Romih, Pepevnik and Sergio Martini (Italian) left C4 at 1:00 am for top. Reached top (left summit) 2:00 pm together with Martini who knew route well and gave correct estimates of time necessary to get to top when on the way. Believe that he summited in '97 and came again to get photos. Returned to C4 at 4:30 pm and C3 at 7:00 pm (Martini had slightly lower C3 than Slovenes and he went to his C3). 

  20 May Debelak and Zernovik tried for top and turned back 8000m. Debalak fingers getting frostbite. 

  21 May Jezovsek, Milar and Skalamera tried and got to 8400m when Jezovsek developed snowblindness and became blind for one day and night. 22 May Jezovsek and Zerovnik in C4 carried down by avalanche for 600m and 4 toes frostbitten (but will heal). 


expid: LHOT00102
peakid: LHOT
year: 2000
route1: W Face
nation: Bulgaria
leaders: Independent climbers
ascent1: 54 w/Geo,55 w/Slov
countries: Italy, Poland, Portugal
approach: Lukla or Syangboche
bcdate: 2000-04-13
smtdate: 2000-05-15
termdate: 2000-05-23
campsites: BC(13/04,5300m),C1(16/04,6000m),C2(17/04,6400m),C3(25/04,7300m),C4(14-15/05,7700m),Smt(15,19/05)
accidents: None
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C2 (also known as ABC by some climbers)
  C3 (low C3).

  Pustelnik, Vasilev and Gonzalo Velez all claim to have used the same camps and Sherpas. They climbed together but summited on different days. O2 yes, and also Martini climbed with them using same camps. 

  Vasilev reached 7900m on 25th May and turned back due to cough and lung infection and went down to C2. Gonzalo Velez reached 8350m on 20th May and returned due to exhaustion and a storm was coming in.

  Pustelnik started climbing at 7:30 am and reached the summit at 6:30 pm with Beno Kashakashvili from the Georgian expedition. Pustelnik claims weather was beautiful he could see many mountains during the day. Sergio reached the summit with 2 Slovenians at 2:00 pm. This expedition left their C4 for the South Africans to use on their summit bid. When Pustelnik reached the summit it was getting dark, difficult to see.


  Simone Mori, Italian on Everest, Spring 2000 - 29 May 

  Martini told Moro "Now, I am very satisfied because I took these pictures which I could not before because I could not see and I touched the summit and saw the middle summit which one cannot see from below main summit."


  Slovenian Lhotse leader, Spring 2000 - 1 June

  Martini told Zernovik he was now sure he had been on summit in 1997.


expid: LHOT00103
peakid: LHOT
year: 2000
route1: W Face
nation: S Africa
leaders: Cathy O'Dowd
ascent1: 57
bcdate: 2000-05-07
smtdate: 2000-05-26
smttime: 0950
termdate: 2000-05-29
campsites: BC(07/05,5350m),C2(13/05,6350m),C3(20/05,7400m),C4(25/05,7900m),Smt(26/05)
achievment: 1st South African atop a Lhotse peak
agency: Sherpa Cooperative Trekking (SCT)
routememo:
  C2 used Todd's Everest tent (West Cwm)
  C3 used Todd's tent (Lhotse Face)
  C4 same site as Russians (Lhotse Face).

  26 May at 2:00 am O'Dowd, Pemba Tenji and Sandy Allan of Henry Todd's team left C4 on summit bid. When got to just before top of couloir, O'Dowd and Allan chose right peak (East Summit) to summit while Pemba refused and went to left peak (Main Summit). Could not see left peak when reached top of right peak because of mist. There had been some discussion  about highest peak before climbing, but chose right because right looked more technically interesting while left peak largely snow slope. Right peak difficult rock: "challenging" climb. Sandy Allan chose right one for same reason (and he went ahead of O'Dowd). On right peak 9:45 am while Pemba reported he got to left peak about 9:50 am. All down to C2 same day. Glad to have teamed up with Allan because snow had filled in route and buried ropes so happy to have some one else join in breaking trail (Sandy Allan was member of Henry Todd's Everest/Lhotse Everest Expedition).

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Tenji, 38, Chatu, Solu, Cho Oyu, Everest X3


expid: LHOT00104
peakid: LHOT
year: 2000
route1: W Face
nation: Georgia
leaders: Beno Kashakashvili
sponsor: Lhotse 2000
ascent1: 54 w/Pol,56th
countries: Russia
bcdate: 2000-04-07
smtdate: 2000-05-15
smttime: 1900
termdate: 2000-05-26
campsites: BC(07/04,5350m),C1(14/04,6100m),C2(15/04,6400m),C3(20/04,7300m),C4(14/05,7900m),Smt(15,21/05)
accidents: 10 May Sokolov shoulder injured by avalanche and Foigt's finger slightly frostbitten
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C4 below couloir.

  15 May Kashakashvili and Pemba Nuru on summit with Pustelnik. Left C4 at 8:00 am and on top 7:00 pm and slept in C4. From summit Kashakashvili looked at ridge to middle summit which he had planned to reach also but saw ridge very sharp and difficult (had planned to sleep one night between summits) and also had avalanche problems and weather not good. 

  21 May summiters left C4 at 7:00 am and on top 12:00 pm, much faster than 15 May team because 15 May team had to fix ropes as they climbed. One avalanche 10 May hit C3 and buried Russians tent and took 3-4 minutes got occupants rescued; covered by nearly 1m of snow. Members hit by avalanche went down to Dingboche to recover and went to top on 21 May. To climb middle summit, needed one more camp 50-60m below main summit. Kashakashvili wants to try next year.


expid: LHOT00106
peakid: LHOT
year: 2000
route1: W Face
nation: Russia
leaders: Dmitri Moskalev
sponsor: MAI Lhotse Expedition
bcdate: 2000-04-26
smtdate: 2000-05-07
termdate: 2000-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to tent and gear lost and bad weather
campsites: BC(26/04,5350m),C1(28/04,6100m),C2(29/04,6400m),C3(07/05,7200m),xxx(07,21/05,7200m)
accidents: Soyfer slight altitude sickness
agency: Sea to Summit Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at biv only at night
  C3 on West Face (only Dimitri)
  High point at C3.

  Slept in C2 only one night and did not leave camp there. Put C3 lower than most expeditions. Georgian-Russian put theirs low and this small team enjoyed their company. Did not make a C4 and this a problem. C3 later destroyed by icefall (biv place) and found it gone including oxygen which destroyed tent and C4 equipement. Went to C3 21 May and found it gone including oxygen which was essential for higher altitude. Weather bad now with strong winds on top and snowing.


expid: MAKA00101
peakid: MAKA
year: 2000
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Park Young-Seok
sponsor: 2000 Tongguk Makalu Expedition
ascent1: 64th
bcdate: 2000-04-06
smtdate: 2000-05-15
smttime: 1410
termdate: 2000-05-17
campsites: BC(06/04,5600m),C1(12/04,6500m),C2(20/04,7400m),C3(28/04,7700m),Smt(15/05)
agency: Beyond Base Camp
routememo:
  BC same as Italian team
  C2 at Makalu La
  C3 before Icefall.

  29 April made 1st summit bid but stopped at 7800m because icefall blue ice. 30 April same again try but at 7900m and fixing rope took too much time through icefall and seracs. 31 to BC. Rest in BC up 4 May to C1. 6 May arrived C3. 7 May tried for top but wind very strong. 8 May to BC. Again up 12 May same 5 men but Kang returned BC 13 May from C1 condition not good. 13 May to C2, 14th to C3 and 15th to top by Park and Lee. Da Chhiri Sherpa with Italians and Germans later. Park trio at 2:10 pm much later (4:00-6:00 pm) - had started up from C3 at 1:10 am making route through deep snow and 8:30 am at French coloir. Slept in C3 after returning 8:20 pm in moonlight. 16 May in BC. 17th to Takna (4800m) and 18 May helicopter flew them from Takna to KTM. 

  Not so difficult as Kangchenjunga, but Makalu is also difficult.


expid: MAKA00102
peakid: MAKA
year: 2000
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Goetz Wiegand
sponsor: Himalaya 2000 - Saxon Himalaya Expedition
ascent1: 65th
bcdate: 2000-04-09
smtdate: 2000-05-15
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2000-05-22
othersmts: Attempted Baruntse (BARU-001-01)
campsites: BC(09/04,4800m),ABC(27/04,5600m),C1(08/05,6400m),C2(13/05,7450m),C3(14/05,7700m),Smt(15/05)
accidents: Death of Mehnert
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at lower BC 
  ABC at higher BC site above glacier junction
  C1  at steep part of ascent below Makalu La
  C2  above Makalu La to right of glacier
  C3  before icefall north of top.

  15 May left C3 1:00 am for top which reached together after Italians and Koreans at 3:00 pm and returned to C3 at 12:00 midnight. Reached true summit (so did Italians and Koreans). 16th left C3 at about 10 am and 5m lower Mehnert sat down suddenly and died probably of pulmonary embolism (left in a small tent and covered it with stones on same day). Too late to return to ABC, slept in C1 which reached at 6:00 and 7:00 pm and to BC next day.

  Route was a variation of the standard route: Makalu La-(Left of) NW Ridge.

  [Hartung and Augermann only attempted Baruntse, then departed with a trekking group.]


expid: MAKA00103
peakid: MAKA
year: 2000
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Christian Kuntner
sponsor: Makalu 2000
ascent1: 63rd
bcdate: 2000-04-17
smtdate: 2000-05-15
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2000-05-19
campsites: BC(17/04,5500m),C1(26/04,6100m),C2(06/05,7500m),Smt(15/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at high BC
  C1 on glacier (only once slept in)
  C2 slightly above Makalu La.

  26 April put tent at 6100m and slept there but afterwards used only as deposit and went from BC to Makalu La. 13 May went from BC to Makalu La. 14 May reached 8100m in summit bid but deep snow and too late to go on. 15 May 2:00 am left C2 again and went to top at 1:30 pm (Koreans 1 hour later, Germans 1 hour after Koreans). Sure Koreans reached true summit (but not to Xixa top in spring '98 when only to 1st summit). All 3 summiters skied from 7000m to 1 hour before BC because not snow covered. Returned to C2 5:00 pm and BC next day.

  Bianchi and Rosa left because Bianchi not strong enough and Rosa his friend and both no motivation left; left team 9 May.


expid: MAKA00104
peakid: MAKA
year: 2000
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Peter Guggemos
countries: Austria, USA
bcdate: 2000-04-14
smtdate: 2000-05-06
termdate: 2000-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to accident in tent with boiling water
campsites: BC(14/04,4800m),ABC(16/04,5600m),C1(20/04,6500m),C2(05/05,7400m),C3(06/05,7600m),xxx(06/05,7600m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  ABC at present normal BC site
  C1  on glacier below couloir and steep section
  C2  at Makalu La
  C3  below icefall
  High point at C3.

  Down from C3 on 7 May because of wind and snowfall. On 8th to BC. 12th up from BC to C1, at C1 on afternoon of 12th Porsche's upper leg hit by boiling water from overturning alumunium pot. On 13th to BC for helicopter which brought Guggemos and Porsche to KTM. Porsche left KTM for Germany this morning for German hospital. 

  18th Rickert and Zeugswetter tried to go to summit but gave up at 6800m because of exhaustion.


expid: MANA00101
peakid: MANA
year: 2000
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Felix Inurrategi
sponsor: Spanish Manaslu Expedition 2000
ascent1: 70th
bcdate: 2000-03-27
smtdate: 2000-04-25
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2000-04-28
campsites: BC(27/03,4800m),C1(03/04,5600m),C2(16/04,6800m),C3(23/04,7400m),Smt(25/04)
agency: Sea to Summit Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site above Samagaon
  C2 just below North Col.

  20th April BC to C1; 21st to C2 and two nights there; 23rd C2 to C3 for 2 nights with bad weather (wind & snow). 25th to top in very cold but clean weather. Left for top at 1:00 am on 25th and on top 7:00 am, one at a time so others could film summiter. Slept at 6400m on 25th at 11:00 am because knee deep snow and very tired and weather deteriorated as every day with clouds coming and then snowfall. "Was coldest day ever had in Himalaya" was summit day. All 4 back in BC 26th; Garces with frostbitten toes, which already had suffered frostbite on earlier climbs.


expid: MANA00102
peakid: MANA
year: 2000
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Christophe Lafaille
sponsor: Independent climber on Italian permit
ascent1: 71st
approach: Helicopter->Samagaon
bcdate: 2000-04-18
smtdate: 2000-05-05
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2000-05-08
campsites: BC(18/04,4800m),C1(20/04,5900m),C2(26/04,6600m),C3(04/05,7400m),Smt(05/05)
achievment: 1st solo ascent
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site for NE Ridge
  C1 at normal C2
  C2 at normal C2.

  C2 only in April because snowing for days, then down after acclimatization. 2 May in C1. 3 May tried to open new route on face for direct line to top but too dangerous snow conditions (deep snow avalanching often). Retraced line to C1 and went to C2. 4 May started new traverse to make direct line left across face and thence up for top on variation of normal route which goes left higher up. Slept in small small C3 at 7400-7500m with steep ice climbing most of way to C3. 5 May to top; started at 4:30 am and was on top just before 9:00 am with wind only close to top. Returned to sleep in C2 by his variation route and 6th in BC.

  Italian expedition (Lafaille was on their permit) told Bishnu GC on 26 May that Lafaille shared their kitchen and tents up to C2 - he left them at C2 and soloed ascent. 


expid: MANA00103
peakid: MANA
year: 2000
route1: NE Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Han Wang-Yong
ascent1: 72nd
bcdate: 2000-04-10
smtdate: 2000-05-12
smttime: 0955
termdate: 2000-05-13
campsites: BC(10/04,4700m),C1(17/04,5700m),C2(20/04,6700m),C3(06/05,7400m),Smt(12/05)
agency: Beyond Base Camp
routememo:
  BC as same as others this spring
  C2 at 200m below col.

  12 May members Han and Kim Hong-Bin left C3 9:30 am with an Italian member and his Sherpa. Han and Kim climbed together to 8000m, when Kim became very tired and feared trouble descending last section from top on hard blue ice alone. Han stronger climber and moved up alone to top quickly (though also tired). Kim stopped at 10:30 am and down to C2. Han also down to C2 after half-hour on top taking pictures. Arrived C2 at 4:00 pm. Kim happy to have gotten to 8000m but would be really happy if he had summited - has no fingers. All to BC 13 May for lunch and same day to Samagaon: 2 nights in Samagaon and helicopter to KTM.

  Kim Hong-Bin to Everest South Aut 2000 with 2 Sherpas on normal route.


expid: MANA00104
peakid: MANA
year: 2000
route1: NE Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Franco Brunello
ascent1: 73rd,74th,75th
approach: Gorkha->Jagat->Filim->Samagaon->BC
bcdate: 2000-04-21
smtdate: 2000-05-12
termdate: 2000-05-17
campsites: BC(21/04,4900m),C1(26/04,5800m),C2(03/05,6600m),C3(11/05,7400m),Smt(12,14-15/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  On the morning of 14th May at 3 am Mario and Giampaolo started from C3 for summit, both reached the summit at 12 Noon of 14th. Stayed one hour on the top and took photographs. It was cloudy and windy on the top, but could see Dhaulagiri, Annapurna and some peaks on the east. Came back to C3 after they started decending.

  On 15th in the morning at 1 am Armando and Antonello started from C3 for summit, reached the summit at 10:30 am of 15th May, beautiful weather and scenery added more attraction for their achievement. Stayed one hour on the top. Took five hours to come down to C3.

  Leader reached the height of 7100m. Because of tiredness could not go beyond this altitude. Stayed at C2 for six days.

  Group left C3 for BC on 16th May. Summiters felt great experience on their success.

  Jean Christophe Lafaille, a French climber shared kitchen, tent up to C2 and started solo climbing mountain Manaslu from just left of normal route. He summited on 5th of May and came back to C3 on the same day.

  Rope fixed by other teams had been used before C2 and C3. After C3, some 40 meters rope had been used.

  Mingma Dorje Sherpa summited alone on the 12th.

  - Group left C3 for BC on 16th May.
  - Summiters felt great experience on their success.
  - Jean Christophe Lafaille, a French climber shared kitchen, tent up 
    to C2. He left the whole group at C2 and started solo climbing 
    Manaslu from just left of normal route. He summited on 5th of May 
    and came back to C3 on the same day. 


expid: NILN00101
peakid: NILN
year: 2000
route1: S Spur of Nilgiri E
nation: France
leaders: Thierry Bolo
sponsor: Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne (GMHM)
approach: KTM->Beni (bus)->Annapurna North BC
bcdate: 2000-04-18
smtdate: 2000-05-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6750m due to distance to main summit and team now satisfied
agency: Thamserku Trekking
primid: ANN100103
campsites:
  BC(18/04,4800m),C1(26/04,5000m),C2(28/04,5650m),C3(02/05,6450m),xxx(03-04/05,6750m),E-Smt(03-04/05,6750m)

routememo:
  BC as same as Annapurna I which team went to first
  C1 on rocks at bottom of couloir east-southeast of Central peak
  C2 at top of couloir at a Col
  C3 shoulder near top of North-South Spur
  High point on eastern subpeak east of Nilgiri North.

  Peak climbed was perhaps same as 1984 autumn Japanese-French-Czech expedition. This team wanted main peak of Nilgiri North, but had no information about the mountain and went for the summit they could see from below and did not carry onto highest peak because very long way to go. Satisfied with summit reached. Six members had never reached the altitude of 6750m before.

  Parapente descent from C3 to BC by Miston on 5 May.


expid: PUMO00101
peakid: PUMO
year: 2000
route1: SE Face
nation: Russia
leaders: Oleg Fedorov
bcdate: 2000-04-26
smtdate: 2000-04-29
termdate: 2000-05-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to Bonderenko's illness
campsites: BC(26/04,5300m),C1(28/04,5800m),C2(29/04,6200m),xxx(29/04,6200m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Team's only climbing members Banderenko and Sloev reached C2 on 29 April and slept there, but Bonderenko developed throat problems and they retreated to BC next day. Now climb finished.

  LO: team had inadequate gear and food.


expid: PUMO00102
peakid: PUMO
year: 2000
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Albert Steinbacher
sponsor: DAV Summit Club Pumori Expedition
countries: Austria, Netherlands
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2000-05-01
smtdate: 2000-05-10
termdate: 2000-05-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6250m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(01/05,5400m),C1(03/05,5700m),C2(05/05,6150m),xxx(10/05,6250m)
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC at near the small lake (not in the map) of Pumori Glacier
  C2 on the snow ridge.

  May 05 - two Sherpas carried equipment to C2 and down to BC.
  May 06 - snowfall in the morning, about 2 pm left BC for C1. Spent 
           night (leader, Borneman, Dominicus, Nyssen and Walthuis).
      07 - snowfall down to BC.
  May 08 - rest day - two Sherpas to C2 spent night.
      09 - leader, Nyssen and two Sherpas spent night - night windy.
      10 - snowfall in the morning - around 8 am went up to 100m high,
           snow about 80 cm - down to BC.
      11 - Dominicus and Walthius went up C2 and returned to BC.
      12 - Borneman and two Sherpas brought back equipment to BC.
       
  Note: new leader was sent to join the team as the original leader suffered from lung infection and flown to KTM from Pheriche on April 29. New leader, who was with Island Peak trek, joined the team on May 3 at BC. He arrived in KTM with trek team on March 3.


expid: PUMO00103
peakid: PUMO
year: 2000
route1: SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Don Worsham
sponsor: Go Meeting Classrooms in the World
ascent1: 129
approach: Phaplu->Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2000-04-22
smtdate: 2000-05-14
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2000-05-18
campsites: BC(22/04,5350m),ABC(25/04,5800m),C1(25/04,5800m),C2(30/04,6250m),C3(13/05,6450m),Smt(14/05)
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
routememo:
  C1 used ABC site as their C1
  C2 by Sloezen and Kloos
  C3 on the "Dome" above icefall.

  Worsham, Noorani, Sloezen, Kloos, Cox, Hickory and Bennett all went above C1, but only Sloezen and Kloos went to C2. The others found the climbing too difficult. Most of the group arrived in KTM on 13 May. Bob and Heidi arrived 21 May.

  Heidi and Bob left for summit and reached the top at 10:30 am. They spent the night at C3 after reaching summit. On the way down Bob cleared the mountain of all 400m of fixed rope and about 300m of Austrian rope as well. He says he had a great climb!!

  Tsering (Sirdar) - lives in Kathmandu, went to 6000m 

  Daily Journal:
  May 3, 2000

  Life on Pumori is getting more exciting. The climbers have begun to move up the mountain and the rest of the group are doing their best to ensure the team's success.

  Today the climbers have made their way all the way to the C2. It has been difficult to get them that high due to the high winds up on Pumori. The climbers estimate the wind speed at over 60 mph. These are very difficult conditions to climb in. One climber said that one of the problems is that climbers are actually lifted into the air. Good thing climbers are wearing climbing harnesses and clipped into safety lines!

  Once the climbers make camp at C3, they will make their way to the summit. The climbing team will leave well before dawn in order to get to the of Pumori by mid-day. The team then will quickly descent perhaps making their way all the way back to camp one.

  The rest of the team will monitor the progress of the climbers through radio contact. The climbing team and base camp group use walkie talkies to talk to one another. This communication is very important. Since the team is so high on Pumori it is very difficult for the people at base camp to watch their progress. By conversing on radios the two group have immediate updates.

  Meanwhile at base camp the rest of the group are working on journal entries, curriculum and basically keeping track of the climbing team. A few schools in the Chicago area have received calls from the team.

accidents:
  Cynthia Cooper flew out from Namche on 17th April (left due to severe AMS, exhaustion, vomiting, headache and weakness)


expid: PUMO00104
peakid: PUMO
year: 2000
route1: SE Face/Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Gerhard Ferstl
sponsor: Rax Pumori Expedition 2000
bcdate: 2000-04-16
smtdate: 2000-04-30
termdate: 2000-05-04
termnote: Abandoned at 6450m due to bad weather and lack of time
campsites: BC(16/04,5340m),ABC(22/04,5750m),C1(29/04,6300m),xxx(30/04,6450m)
accidents: Rosenite serious altitude trouble but recovered and returned to mountain
agency: Adventure Zambuling Treks
routememo:
  BC at south end of small lake
  C1 at maximum altitude for members under an ice wall
  High point at SE Ridge.

  Had to wait for snow to stop falling and avalanching to ease off. Went 3 times to ABC but had to retreat because of snow in C1. Members not good enough to go higher that day. 4 members reached C1 on 2 different days.


expid: RAMT00101
peakid: RAMT
year: 2000
route1: E Ridge from S
nation: UK
leaders: Andy Eddington
sponsor: British Services Ramtang Expedition 2000
approach: By air->Suketar->Tamkewa->Yamphudin->Tseram
bcdate: 2000-04-18
smtdate: 2000-04-29
termdate: 2000-05-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6660m due to wind and difficult climbing, steep ice, loose snow
campsites: BC(18/04,5000m),C1(21/04,5300m),C2(17/04,6000m),xxx(29/04,6660m)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Pangpema BC
  C1 at junction of Kangchenjunga and Mouse Glacier
  C2 on plateau above Mouse Glacier
  High point at below East Summit.

  David Goldsmith, Ben MacInnes, David Nicholls and Paul Randell woke up at 4:00 am to attempt summit. Goldsmith, MacInnes, Nicholls and Randell reached 6300m together and Randell and Goldsmith turned back because climbing was too difficult with steep, blue ice 55 to 60 degrees. MacInnes and Nicholls reached 6660m at 9:10 am and turned back due to wind and found there were vertical "castles" of loose unconsolidated snow impossible to walk on.

  Another summit attempt was made on 1 May by Andy Eddington and Tom Martin. They reached 6300m and turned back at 7:00 am. All these times are Nepal.

  Ramche, at Oktang they parted from the other British Services Kangchenjunga team, then they walked from Oktang to Mirgin La, to Ghunsa, to Pangpema Base Camp, near Kangchenjunga and Mouse Glacier.

  Mike Pearce reached base on April 23rd, but went back home due to stomach problems and cramps. He walked out.

  Mark Lewis had a helicopter evacuation from BC on April 23, was brought down from C1 on April 22 with pulmonary and cerebral edema the doctor Euan Lawson administered dexamethasone and oxygen. The next morning 23rd April he was losing consciousness - so they flew him out.


expid: TILI00101
peakid: TILI
year: 2000
route1: NE Spur (for N Ridge)
nation: Japan
leaders: Masaki Koike
sponsor: Kozankai Tilicho Peak Expedition 2000
bcdate: 2000-04-10
smtdate: 2000-04-20
termdate: 2000-04-24
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to small team with no Sherpa support
othersmts: Climbed Pisang (all 3 members 30 March)
campsites: BC(10/04,5100m),ABC(13/04,5100m),C1(19/04,5700m),xxx(20/04,5800m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC  near lake at east end
  ABC also near lake but bottom of ridge (NE Spur)
  C1  at 5700m on NE Spur
  High point at direct line to North Ridge.

  Much snow on Spur. Frequent snowfall. 20th night slept in C1 and next day down to ABC. Climb finished because only 2 climbing members and no Sherpas and had no time to rest and return to climb. Route not difficult despite steep pitch and 30 cm snow on it.


expid: BARU84302
peakid: BARU
year: 1984
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Nil Bohigas Martorell
ascent1: 19th claimed
approach: Makalu BC->Barun Glacier->Sherpani Col->West Col
bcdate: 1984-11-04
smtdate: 1984-11-05
termdate: 1984-11-06
campsites: BC(04/11),Smt(05/11)
primid: CHOP84301
routememo:
  Fax to Liz Halwley from Nil Bohigas

  I did not get to know these ascents, as well as others ones that I did at the same period, because I did them without permission.

  The main reason was the crossing - trekking through the Arun and Khumbu's valleys from Tumlingtar to Jiri, crossing the Sherpani Col, the West Col and the Amphu Labsta. I did the trekking after the ascent in alpine style to Annapurna South Face with Enric Lucasa. I felt perfectly acclimatized to the altitude as well as Montse Soteras who went with me in this fantastic crossing. I have to say that Montse had not any experience in alpinism neither in ice climbing, therefore I think that her activity was still more "unbelievable" than mine.

  We went alone and we had just a little quantity of material; we had just a tent, sleeping bags and my climbing equipment composed by 2 ice-axes and a pair of crampons, we did not carry ropes. I climbed several summits during the crossing but I did not plan them before even I did not give them to much importance. The reason that we carried so few climbing equipment was because we were really badly informed.

  The Cols crossing has a great technical difficulty and it requires a team well equipped to be successful. We were really lucky to complete it. We could not climb on the Sherpani Col 6110 rocky section therefore we climbed on the icy slopes placed on its left (very much difficulty that Pethangtse South Face). We risked a lot (we share my ice-axes and crampons). On the Amphu Labtsa, 5870m, we find miraculously a part of the descent equipped with ropes which an expedition abandoned it not it had been impossible to descend.

  I took the decision of climbing these mountains during the crossing because we passed nearby and I thought I can achieved it due to the god conditions of the snow. I always thought that someone had climbed theat peaks before me. I have not detailed information because I did not keep notes about this crossing-trekking.
   
  I made the bivouac on the moraine at 6000m high where I left the material. I went out at night and I summited Pethangtse before the sunrise, I made very quickly the ascent by the right area of the South Face and the descent by the South West Ridge because there are not great technical difficulties. I found the main difficulties on the North Face Cho Polu's, first section, specially on the descent; I reached the summit by the NE Ridge. I descended by the same route and I reached the glacier at night.

  I cannot recall the schedules (15 years ago) but did not take more than 16 hours in total. Three days later I soloed the Baruntse 7220m, by SE Ridge and I left it by the West Col 6315m in 4 hours and 2:30 of descent. I went very quick and the conditions could not be better.


expid: GAN600101
peakid: GAN6
year: 2000
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hideki Yoshida
sponsor: Shinshu University Ganesh Himal Expedition
ascent1: 1st?
approach: Buri Gandaki->Yaru Khola
bcdate: 2000-04-09
smtdate: 2000-05-23
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2000-05-29
othersmts: Attempted Ganesh II (GAN2-001-01)
campsites: BC(09/04,4200m),C1(20/04,5100m),C1(20/04),C2(29/04,5900m),C3(12/05,6700m),Smt(23/05)
achievment: Probably 1st ascent of Ganesh VI
agency: Cosmo Treks
primid: GAN200101
routememo:
  BC  on south side of glacier (south of point at 4170 on HMG Survey Dept map)
  ABC south of Ganesh II end of snow plateau above icefall
  C2  southeast of Ganesh VI 
  C3  south of C2 at top of rock wall
  High point at SE Ridge beyond Ganesh VI summit.

  From Ganesh VI two summiters tried to continue on ridge from Ganesh VI northwest to Ganesh II, but very difficult narrow ridge with cornices and gave up one-third way at about 6700m altitude and returned to BC same day, 23 May, and climb finished. Fixed 3000m rope.

  1980 Japanese probably did not reach true summit Ganesh VI, but snow summit south of it by the same route, which they followed after failure from West Face.


expid: AMAD90308
peakid: AMAD
year: 1990
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Russell Gordon
sponsor: On Italian permit (Losso)
smtdate: 1990-11-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to AMS and coughing
campsites: BC,Biv1(01/11),Biv(02/11),xxx(03/11,6400m)
accidents: Gordon chest infection 1st night at BC & left (returned after Italians left BC)
primid: AMAD90306
routememo:
  Russell Gordon's account in AAJ of his solo attempt in November 1990:

  "I originally intended to try the Lugunak (Southeast) Ridge, but since my companions had backed out in the United States, I switched to a solo effort on the standard southwest ridge. I was added to the permit of a South Tirolean team. After about with pneumonia, I went back to base camp after the departure of the South Tiroleans and started up alone on Nov 1, 1990. The route had been mostly fixed by two strong Italian and English teams, though by the time I arrived, quite a number of ropes were cut or worn through. I tried to free everything but stayed clipped in as much as possible. I went for the summit from a second bivouac, but at the end of the Mushroom Ridge at 21,000 feet, the violent cough and high fever came back, this time with pulmonary edema. I descended to C2 and stayed awake all night, drinking and taking Diamox and Decadron against cerebral impairment. I was very ill, and so at first light I started the tricky down-climbing, rappelling and traversing. I descended to Pangboche where French friends gave me antibiotics."


expid: CHWT00201
peakid: CHWT
year: 2000
route1: W Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Tamotsu Ohnishi
ascent1: 1st
approach: Nepalgunj->Simikot (air), trekked west to Kermi
bcdate: 2000-06-23
smtdate: 2000-06-28
campsites: BC(23/06,5460m),C1(26/06,5738m),Smt(28/06)
agency: Cosmo Treks
primid: NALA00201
othersmts:
  Climbed Nalakankar North (NALA-002-01) and Nalakankar South (NALS-002-01); attempted Takphu Himal (TAKP-002-01)

routememo:
  Mts: Changwatang, Nalakankar North and South peaks, and Takphu Himal, highest peak of Nalakankar range.

  Nation: Japan.  Leader: Tamotsu Ohnishi. Members at end: 12.
  Climbing Sherpas: 4. Routes: see below with each peak.
  Oxygen: none. Deaths, accidents, illness: none. Source: Ohnishi

  Approach: air to Nepalgunj 2 June, air (helicopter) to Simikot 3 June. Trek west to Kermi, north to Saja Khola and then east via Talsolu Khola for ascent of Changwatang (6125m). Arrived Changdi base camp (5460m) on Talsolu Khola 23 June, pitched high camp (5738m) on 26 June, scaled West Face to summit on 28 June. 

  Changwatang summiters: Tamotsu Ohnishi, Koji Mizutani, Nobuo Akayama, Takehiko Yanagihara; Sherpas Chuldim Nuru and Dawa.  

  Returned to Saja Khola, north to Jokila (Gyo) Khola and west to Nalakankar base camp on east side of Nalakankar range. Arrived  Nalakankar base camp (5373m) on Jokila Khola 3 July. First climbed Nalakankar North Peak (6062m). Arrived high camp (5733m) 6 July on east side of South Ridge; on same day climbed to south col and then up South Ridge to top by Yanigahara and Ang Phurba Sherpa on very easy snow and rock slope, taking 1.5 hours from high camp to top and 0.5 hours back to high camp. "Uninteresting climb - like ice cream scoop."

  From same high camp, climbed Nalakankar South Peak (6024m) on 7th July.  Climbers attacked in two separate parties. Party A: Ohnishi, Yanagihara, Chuldim Nuru and Kancha Dawa Sherpa took direct route up East Face to top (only four pitches of fixed rope on easy route icy face) in 2.45 hours and down South Ridge back to camp. Party B: Koji Mizutani, Mrs Noriko Mizutani, Isamu Fujimoto, Mrs Mitsuko Fujimoto, Akayama, Mrs Tazuko Inoue, Mrs Tomoko Sato, and Sherpas Ang Phurba, Ang Chuldim and Chuldim Dawa, went up North Ridge to top (only walking up rock with scattered snow patches) in 2.5 hours and then down South Ridge to same camp. All back in base camp on 7 July.

  On 9 July, left base camp to attempt Nalakankar range highest peak, Takphu Himal, 6422m (according to a Chinese map and border map), but called Til Kang by the local people of nearest village, Til (Tilgaon). Takphu is south of South Peak. Arrived at their base at (4300m) 14 July. 15 July moved to 4618m on valley floor and pitched camp there. Stayed in camp 16th and 17th. On 18th from east side, did easy rock climbing until stopped at 5373m by hanging glacier and too much rain; went back to Tilgaon same day. Summit attempted by: Ohnishi, Yanagihara, Koji Mizutani, Ang Phurba, Kancha Dawa, Chuldim Nuru.

  Left Tilgaon on 21 July, trekked south-southwest one day to Hilsa village. 24th trekked east to Kermi and Simikot, arrived Simikot 28th and flew to Nepalgunj and Kathmandu same day.

  June 
  6/2 KTM - Nepalgunj 
  6/3 Nepalgunj - Simikot
  6/4 Simikot- Tuling Khola
  6/5        - Karmi
  6/6        - Shinjungma Khola
  6/10       - Tongsa 4068m (altitude acclimatize)
  6/15       - Serima tso
  6/16       - Nyalu La
  6/17       - Takuche
  6/21       - Saja Khola
  6/21 to    - Changwatang (T. Ohnishi)
                           (K. Mizutani)
                           (N. Akayama)
                           (T. Yanagihara)
                           Sherpas: Chuldim Nuru and Dawa
  6/22 Lalung Banjyang
  6/24 5150m Banjyang 
  6/26 Talsolu Khola 5460m
  6/27 camp          5238m
  Attacked 6125m peak (Changdi) from W Face
         (N30 19 634)
          E81 53 028 
  6/30 Saja Khola camp returned

  July
  7/1  Lapuche Banjyang
  7/2  Gyo (Jokila) Khola
  7/3  Nalakankar BC 5373m N30 22 320
                           E81 26 716  GPS
   
  7/6  High camp 5733m  N70 21 660 
                        E81 24 866

  Camp east side of South Ridge - from here to South Col of North Peak and up ridge to top. 1/2 hour very easy snow and rock slope.

  Nalakankar (North) 6062m (from high camp 1:30 to summit)
  South Ridge by Yanigahara and Ang Phurba and back to high camp in 1/2 hour from top.

  7/7 (Attack) from high camp
  Nalakankar (South) N30 21 180 
                     E81 24 365

  East Face: T. Ohnishi
             T. Yanagihara
             2 Sherpas: Chuldim Nuru, Dawa

  Up North Ridge - South Ridge down
                   Mr/Ms Mizutani
                   Mr/Ms Fujimoto
                   Mr Akayama
                   Ms Luoue
                   Ms Sato
                   3 Sherpas Ang Phurba, Ang Tshering, Chuldim

  All returned BC same day
  7/9 BC - 4930-4647m - Halje 7/12
  7/14 Tilgaon (4300m)
  7/15-7/18 Nalakankar highest 6422m attempted from Tilgaon base. 15th up to 4618m on valley floor, 16th and 17th stayed in camp, 18th up to 5372m in easy climbing and stopped by hanging glacier and too much rain so back to Tilgaon.
  7/21 Tilgaon - 7/22 Hilsa
  7/24 Hilsa   - 7/28 Simikot - Nepalgunj - KTM


expid: CHUL81301
peakid: CHUL
year: 1981
route1: W Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: John Hunt
bcdate: 1981-11-06
smtdate: 1981-11-08
campsites: BC(06/11,4575m),C1(07/11,5300m),Smt(08/11)
routememo:
  John Hunt - 20 Nov 81

  "Quite a joy to be on a peak of that might without any altitude problems."

  BC at 15,000 ft 6 Nov, higher camp at 17,500 ft 7 Nov. On top on 8 Nov after 4 hours from higher camp by Lord and Lady Hunt, Michael and Sally Westmacott, Alan Wedgemold and Janet Westmacott, Hamish Nicol. 

  Perfect day regarding weather with no wind to speak.

  Snow and ice, 55 degrees some of it on West Ridge of Chulu East. Little technical difficulty. No fixed rope. Very low temperature.

  Last year in Karakorum also climbed with multinational scientific expedition; went only 16,000 ft.

  Last camp altitude reached 19 years agao by Hunt in Pamirs on Concord Peak in 1st ascent just 19,000 ft. Anglo-Soviet expedition led by Hunt. 

  Absolutely wind by time got to top. This time on Chulu much less so. Another climb like this? "there has always got to be a last time."


expid: DHAM00201
peakid: DHAM
year: 2000
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yoshio Morikubo
sponsor: Tokyo Workers Alpine Federation Dhampus Peak Expedition 2000
ascent1: 15th
approach: Marpha (from Jomsom by air)
bcdate: 2000-08-12
smtdate: 2000-08-13
termdate: 2000-08-14
campsites: BC(12/08,4950m),Smt(13/08)
accidents: Nothing except leader's headache
agency: Sherpa Summit Treks (Ang Babu)
routememo:
  Leader up from BC but stopped at 5500m because of headache. Ridge not difficult: to 5500m rock, above to top was snow. 13th to top and back to BC same day.


expid: NALA00201
peakid: NALA
year: 2000
route1: S Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Tamotsu Ohnishi
ascent1: 1st
approach: Saja Khola, N to Gyo Khola & W to Nalakankar BC on east side
bcdate: 2000-07-03
smtdate: 2000-07-06
campsites: BC(03/07,5373m),C1(06/07,5733m),Smt(06/07)
agency: Cosmo Treks
othersmts:
  Climbed Changwatang (CHWT-002-01) and Nalakankar South (NALS-002-01); attempted Takphu Himal (TAKP-002-01)

routememo:
  Mts: Changwatang, Nalakankar North and South peaks, and Takphu Himal, highest peak of Nalakankar range.

  Nation: Japan.  Leader: Tamotsu Ohnishi. Members at end: 12.
  Climbing Sherpas: 4. Routes: see below with each peak.
  Oxygen: none. Deaths, accidents, illness: none. Source: Ohnishi

  Approach: air to Nepalgunj 2 June, air (helicopter) to Simikot 3 June. Trekked west to Kermi, north to Saja Khola and then east via Talsolu Khola for ascent of Changwatang (6125m). Arrived Changwatang base camp (5460m) on Talsolu Khola 23 June, pitched high camp (5738m) on 26 June, scaled West Face to summit on 28 June. 

  Changwatang summiters: Tamotsu Ohnishi, Koji Mizutani, Nobuo Akayama, Takehiko Yanagihara; Sherpas Chuldim Nuru and Dawa.  

  Returned to Saja Khola, north to Jokila (Gyo) Khola and west to Nalakankar base camp on east side of Nalakankar range. Arrived  Nalakankar base camp (5373m) on Jokila Khola 3 July. First climbed Nalakankar North Peak (6062m). Arrived high camp (5733m) 6 July on east side of South Ridge; on same day climbed to south col and then up South Ridge to top by Yanigahara and Ang Phurba Sherpa on very easy snow and rock slope, taking 1.5 hours from high camp to top and 0.5 hours back to high camp. "Uninteresting climb - like ice cream scoop."

  From same high camp, climbed Nalakankar South Peak (6024m) on 7th July.  Climbers attacked in two separate parties. Party A: Ohnishi, Yanagihara, Chuldim Nuru and Kancha Dawa Sherpa took direct route up East Face to top (only four pitches of fixed rope on easy route icy face) in 2.45 hours and down South Ridge back to camp. Party B: Koji Mizutani, Mrs Noriko Mizutani, Isamu Fujimoto, Mrs Mitsuko Fujimoto, Akayama, Mrs Tazuko Inoue, Mrs Tomoko Sato, and Sherpas Ang Phurba, Ang Chuldim and Chuldim Dawa, went up North Ridge to top (only walking up rock with scattered snow patches) in 2.5 hours and then down South Ridge to same camp. All back in base camp on 7 July.

  On 9 July, left base camp to attempt Nalakankar range highest peak, Takphu Himal, 6422m (according to a Chinese map and border map), called Til Kang by the local people of nearest village, Til (Tilgaon). Takphu is south of South Peak. Arrived at their base at (4300m) 14 July. 15 July moved to 4618m on valley floor and pitched camp there. Stayed in camp 16th and 17th. On 18th from east side, did easy rock climbing until stopped at 5373m by hanging glacier and too much rain; went back to Tilgaon same day. Summit attempted by: Ohnishi, Yanagihara, Koji Mizutani, Ang Phurba, Dawa, Chuldim Nuru.

  Left Tilgaon on 21 July, trekked south-southwest one day to Hilsa village. 24th trekked east to Kermi and Simikot, arrived Simikot 28th and flew to Nepalgunj and Kathmandu same day.

  June 
  6/2 KTM - Nepalgunj 
  6/3 Nepalgunj - Simikot
  6/4 Simikot- Tuling Khola
  6/5        - Kermi
  6/6        - Shinjungma Khola
  6/10       - Tongsa 4068m (altitude acclimatize)
  6/15       - Serima tso
  6/16       - Nyalu La
  6/17       - Takuche
  6/21       - Saja Khola
  6/21 to    - Changwatang (T. Ohnishi)
                           (K. Mizutani)
                           (N. Akayama)
                           (T. Yanagihara)
                           Sherpas: Chuldim Nuru and Dawa
  6/22 Lalung Banjyang
  6/24 5150m Banjyang
  6/26 Talsolu Khola 5460m
  6/27 camp          5238m
  Attacked 6125m peak (Changwatang) from W Face
         (N30 19 634)
          E81 53 028 
  6/30 Saja Khola camp returned

  July
  7/1  Lapuche Banjyang
  7/2  Gyo (Jokila) Khola
  7/3  Nalakankar BC 5373m N30 22 320
                           E81 26 716  GPS
   
  7/6  High camp 5733m  N70 21 660 
                        E81 24 866

  Camp east side of South Ridge - from here to South Col of North Peak and up ridge to top. 1/2 hour very easy snow and rock slope.

  Nalakankar (North) 6062m (from high camp 1:30 to summit)
  South Ridge by Yanigahara and Ang Phurba and back to high camp in 1/2 hour from top.

  7/7 (Attack) from high camp
  Nalakankar (South) N30 21 180 
                     E81 24 365

  East Face: T. Ohnishi
             T. Yanagihara
             2 Sherpas: Chuldim Nuru, Dawa

  Up North Ridge - South Ridge down
                   Mr/Ms Mizutani
                   Mr/Ms Fujimoto
                   Mr Akayama
                   Ms Luoue
                   Ms Sato
                   3 Sherpas Ang Phurba, Ang Tshering, Chuldim

  All returned BC same day
  7/9 BC - 4930-4647m - Halje 7/12
  7/14 Tilgaon (4300m)
  7/15-7/18 Nalakankar highest 6422m attempted from Tilgaon base. 15th up to 4618m on valley floor, 16th and 17th stayed in camp, 18th up to 5372m in easy climbing and stopped by hanging glacier and too much rain so back to Tilgaon.
  7/21 Tilgaon - 7/22 Hilsa
  7/24 Hilsa   - 7/28 Simikot - Nepalgunj - KTM


expid: NALS00201
peakid: NALS
year: 2000
route1: E Face up; S Ridge down
route2: N Ridge up; S Ridge down
nation: Japan
leaders: Tamotsu Ohnishi
ascent1: 1st
ascent2: 2nd
bcdate: 2000-07-03
smtdate: 2000-07-07
campsites: BC(03/07,5373m),C1(06/07,5733m),Smt(07/07)
agency: Cosmo Treks
primid: NALA00201
othersmts:
  Climbed Changwatang (CHWT-002-01) and Nalakankar North (NALA-002-01); attempted Takphu Himal (TAKP-002-01)

routememo:
  From same high camp, climbed Nalakankar South Peak (6024m) on 7th July. Climbers attacked in two separate parties. 

  Party A: Ohnishi, Yanagihara, Chuldim Nuru and Kancha Dawa Sherpa took direct route up East Face to top (only four pitches of fixed rope on easy route icy face) in 2.45 hours and down South Ridge back to camp.

  Party B: Koji Mizutani, Mrs Noriko Mizutani, Isamu Fujimoto, Mrs Mitsuko Fujimoto, Akayama, Mrs Tazuko Inoue, Mrs Tomoko Sato, and Sherpas Ang Phurba, Ang Chuldim and Chuldim Dawa, went North Ridge to top (only walking up rock with scattered snow patches) in 2.5 hours and then down South Ridge to same camp. All back in base camp on 7 July.


expid: TAKP00201
peakid: TAKP
year: 2000
route1: E side
nation: Japan
leaders: Tamotsu Ohnishi
bcdate: 2000-07-14
smtdate: 2000-07-18
termnote: Abandoned at 5373m due to hanging glacier and rain
campsites: BC(14/07,4300m),ABC(15/07,4618),xxx(18/07,5373m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
primid: NALA00201
othersmts:
  Climbed Changwatang (CHWT-002-01), Nalakankar North (NALA-002-01) and Nalakankar South (NALS-002-01)

routememo:
  On 9 July, left base camp to attempt Nalakankar range highest peak, Takphu Himal, 6422m (according to a Chinese map and border map), called Til Kang by the local people of nearest village, Til (Tilgaon). Takphu is south of South Peak. Arrived at their base at (4300m) 14 July. 15 July moved to 4618m on valley floor and pitched camp there. Stayed in camp 16th and 17th. On 18th from east side, did easy rock climbing until stopped at 5373m by hanging glacier and too much rain. Went back to Tilgaon same day. Summit attempted by: Ohnishi, Yanagihara, Koji Mizutani, Ang Phurba, Kancha Dawa, Chuldim Nuru.

  Left Tilgaon on 21 July, trekked south-southwest one day to Hilsa village. 24th trekked east to Kermi and Simikot. Arrived Simikot 28th and flew to Nepalgunj and Kathmandu same day.


expid: MALA00101
peakid: MALA
year: 2000
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Peter Carse
sponsor: American Malanphulan Expedition 2000
ascent1: 1st
approach: Lukla->Hinku Nup Glacier
bcdate: 2000-04-13
smtdate: 2000-04-28
smttime: 1530
termdate: 2000-05-03
campsites: BC(13/04,5000m),C1(17/04,5200m),C2(20/04,5640m),Biv(27/04,6250m),Smt(28/04)
agency: None
routememo:
  Peter Carse - Oct 10, 2000

  This peak in the Khumbu lies 6 km south of Ama Dablam and 5 km ENE of Kang Taiga on the divide between the Hinku and Mingbo watersheds. On the Schneider Khumbu Himal map (1988) it is unnamed, but on some maps it is indicated as "Melanpulan." Supy Bullard and I climbed the West Face to the summit from a camp at 5640m on the edge of the Hinku Nup Glacier.

  We arrived in Kathmandu on Apr 4, 2000 and flew to Lukla the next day. After hiring porters and having a nice visit with our friends Ang Pisang and Dawa Phuti at the Paradise Lodge, we departed Lukla on Apr 8. We established our Base Camp at 5000m on the Hinku Nup Glacier on Apr 13. From here we shuttled loads up the rock-covered glacier near the base of the East Face of Kang Taiga where we established C1 below a rocky headwall at 5200m on Apr 17. The headwall proved to be straightforward scrambling up third class ledges, and we shuttled loads up into the head of the NE lobe of the Hinku Nup, establishing our C2 on Apr 20 at 5640m.

  On the 21st we rested; on the 22nd, a windy day, we scrambled to 5790m on the south side of adjacent P 6000m to the NW of camp. On the 23rd we climbed seven pitches on the West Face of Melanpulan to 6040m, establishing belay/rappel anchors on each pitch. On the 24th we rested, as it was snowing in the morning. Almost every day after leaving Lukla, the weather would cloud up and snow lightly in the afternoon, but mornings were generally clear. On the 25th we broke trail again over the to the foot of the face and fixed a rope across the bergschrund, returning to camp in the afternoon. On the 26th we got up at 2 am and climbed the first four pitches of our route, but descended by mid-morning because of the cold: our feet were numb.

  On Apr 27 we started off again up the face with a new plan: we carried full bivvy gear and didn't leave camp until 8 am, to take advantage of warmer temperatures, planning to bivvy on a snow rib at 6250m. The climbing across the 'schrund was initially 45-degree snow with occasional protruding rocks, steepening to 60-degree ice runnels. The bivvy was fantastic: we scratched out a tiny level spot on the snow rib, and secured ourselves to a couple ice axes buried in the snow. On Apr 20 we climbed the remaining 11 pitches to the summit, arriving at 3:30 pm. The first two pitches above the bivvy were steeper, 75 to 80-degree thin ice and loose rock, then we were back to 60-degree ice runnel. At about 6400m there was another tricky section which involved the crossing of a small 'schrund and some more mixed climbing, then the runnel continued straight to the top. The last pitch was entirely on steep snow, and since we didn't bring any pickets we buried an ice axe for an anchor for the first rappel off the top. We rappelled the route, using the ice thread anchors we had established on the ascent, as far as our bivvy, which we reached at 5:30 pm and spent another night there. On the 29th we rappelled the rest of the way down the face in two hours, and rested that afternoon at our C2.

  Our departure from the mountain proceeded as follows:

  Apr 30: Descend to BC with all materials from C2
  May 01: Retrieve cache from C1
  May 02: BC to Kare, to hire porters
  May 03: Hike up to BC with porters, retrieve loads, descend to Tangnag
  May 04: Tangnag to Kote
  May 05: Kote to Thuli Kharka
  May 06: Thuli Kharka to Lukla
  May 10: Lukla to Kathmandu by air

  On our way out, we saw a Russian climber going in to attempt the North Face of Kang Taiga solo. Other than that, our party didn't see anyone, or see signs of anyone in the upper reaches of the Hinku Nup.


expid: ANN100301
peakid: ANN1
year: 2000
route1: N Face-E Peak (for traverse of summits)
nation: France
leaders: Nicolas Terray
sponsor: 50th Anniversary Annapurna I Expedition
bcdate: 2000-10-07
smtdate: 2000-10-28
termdate: 2000-11-01
termnote: Abandoned at 7400-7500mm due bad weather and lack of motivation by most members to continue
agency: Everest Trekking
campsites:
  BC(07/10,4300m),C1(09/10,5000m),C2(12/10,5700m),C3(20/10,6500m),Biv1(27/10,7200m),Biv2(28/10,7400m),xxx(28/10,7400m)

routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at normal site
  C2 at bottom of NW Ridge - from to right of normal site
  C3 near Spanish route to East Peak
  2nd Biv at 100m below summit ridge to Roc Noir and East Summit
  High point at 2nd biv.

  Decided North Face too dangerous (big seracs), so best solution to go to climb East Summit and then traverse to Middle Summit and Main Summit. Placed C2 in very safe place, not in serac field. C2 is exposed to avalanching from left (Roc Noir) if there is much snowfall, but this team had not such bad weather. Only 10 minutes (300m) exposed area at 5600m. Profit and Dorje on 25 Oct to C2, 26 in C3. 27th make biv at 7200m. 28th intended to go up East Summit and see South, but Dorje's feet very cold so he could not get to top that day and they made a 2nd biv at 7400-7500m intending to go on 29th later in morning when warmer and Dorje's feet better. That night cyclone from Bangladesh forced them to sleep in shoes and 29th am wind terrible and decided to go down and wind blew away tent when they got out of it. So went down to BC same in strong winds. At BC dust from moraine was blown everywhere.

  Meanwhile Blanchard and Gentet had gone on slightly different line from C3 and reached about same altitude intending to acclimatize. Perfect weather with no wind that night of 28th. "The best condition to go to summit" (Profit), but a little short in time to finish. No motivation from members to go again except one. "My idea was to go to C2 with Lhakpa (Sherpa) and go alone to East Peak and then if possible traverse to main summit." Possibility was dependent on ability to traverse slightly on south side. Had no intention to descend by any route except this French route because only it is safe on face. Profit later agreed that team had no high climbers except himself and Blanchard. Team decided on 28th that when Profit and Dorje came down to BC, the climb would be over. They were on a fixed schedule which they had no desire to change and they could not agree to staying on longer.

  Profit is determined to come again and finish this climb on such a safe route with one friend who will climb high with him.


expid: PUTH00301
peakid: PUTH
year: 2000
route1: NE Face (same as Spanish)
nation: France
leaders: Didier Fagart
sponsor: Putha 2000
ascent1: 21st
approach: Nepalgunj->Juphal->Dunai->Tarakot->Kakkot->German BC
bcdate: 2000-10-17
smtdate: 2000-10-29
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2000-11-01
campsites: BC(17/10,4950m),C1(20/10,5400m),C2(24/10,5840m),C3(28/10,6250m),Smt(29/10)
accidents: Mrs Claire Fagart slipped between C1-C2 about 100m - wound scar on left temple
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Oct 29 Claire Fagart and Sophie Murat left C3 at 04:30 hours. Murat summited at 11:05 hours, stayed about 10 minutes, then to BC at 16:30 hours. Claire Fagart summited 11:15 hours stayed about 45 minutes, to BC at 20:00 hours.

  Catherine Fagart, Dennis Fagart and Didier Fagart left at 05:00 hours. Catherine Fagart summited at about 11:45 hours, returned to BC at 20:00 hours. Dennis and Didier Fagart returned from about 200m below the summit. 

  Dimitri Fagart and Thalia Fagart left at 05:20 hours. Dimitri Fagart summited about 11:00 hours, Thalia Fagart summit 11:45 hours. Returned to BC all together.

  Sherpas: Sirdar Ongchu, Gyalbu (from Makalu) and Mingma. Clear day, windy and cold.

  Claire Fagart and Dimitri Fagart returned to KTM on Nov 5, rest of members on Nov 6. Left Nepal on Nov 6 evening.

  Source of above information Claire Fagart and Dimitri Fagart - 5 Nov 2000


  Fax from Didier Fagart leader to Jeevan Shrestha on 11 Nov 2000:

  Base Camp was settled on the 17th October at 4900m, C1 at 5300m, C2 at 5900m and C3 at 6400m (C2 was not used for last attack, this camp being too close to C3 and so not worth sleeping one more night in altitude). On October 29th, the whole team, 7 members and 3 Sherpas, left C3 between 4:30 and 5:30 am towards the summit: 8 of them (5 members and 3 Sherpas) reached the summit around 11 am; one [Didier Fagart] had to stop 200m before the summit because of a beginning of cerebral edema and went down accompanied by another member [Dennis Fagart] (a doctor).

  The weather during the whole expedition was sunny, but the temperature got colder and colder.


expid: TILI00301
peakid: TILI
year: 2000
route1: NE Spur-N Ridge up; paraglider down
nation: Austria
leaders: Hartmut Gfoellner
sponsor: Independent pair on Swiss-French permit (Mayor)
ascent1: 26th
approach: Pisang Peak and Manang
bcdate: 2000-11-04
smtdate: 2000-11-07
othersmts: Pisang Peak (first to top and down by parapente)
campsites: BC(04/11,4960m),C2(06/11,6300m),Smt(07/11)
accidents: Nothing (says trekking agent)
achievment: 1st parapentists from summit to Jomsom
agency: Sherpa & Swiss Adventures
routememo:
  BC at NW end of Tilicho Lake
  C2 at junction of North Spur and North Ridge.

  Summiters flew on one paragliders (1 para-porter) from summit to Jomsom. Sherpa took baggage BC to Kathmandu.

  Were on Swiss-French expedition permit but climbed (and flew) independently. Went to BC together with Swiss and French.


expid: PUTH00302
peakid: PUTH
year: 2000
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Miguel Angel Vidal
sponsor: Sanga Dhaulagiri VII Expedition
ascent1: 19th
approach: Kaya Khola
bcdate: 2000-10-06
smtdate: 2000-10-18
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2000-10-21
campsites: BC(06/10,4700m),C1(08/10,5250m),C2(11/10,5850m),C3(17/10,6200m),Smt(18/10)
accidents: Vidal's toes injured by stone; Quero incipient altitude problem
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC west northwest of point 6172m on moraine at end of Putha Hiunchuli Glacier
  C1 at bottom of snow slope
  C2 at shoulder (which maps shows as NE Ridge)
  C3 at NE Face.

  All members to C3 and all left for top 3:00 am, but only 3 on top because of strong wind all day and cold. Summiters arrived on top 11:00 am and down to BC by all but 2 non-summiters who slept in C1.


expid: CHAM00101
peakid: CHAM
year: 2000
route1: N Face
nation: UK
leaders: Chris Comerie
sponsor: British Chamlang Expedition Spring 2000
agency: Himalayan Country
routememo:
  Chris Comerie (letter to Liz Hawley)

  The expedition arrived in Tashigaon on 12th March amid rumors that there was heavy snow in the passes. The weather had been bad with heavy rain for the previous four days, thick black clouds constantly obscuring the surrounding hills. The snow line was down to 2500m at Tashigaon.

  The day after arrival at Tashigaon we took two Sherpas up the trail to  assess the situation. It took several hours just to make the ridge above the village at 3200m, battling through deep snow often waist deep. The following day we made the trail further to around 3500m through increasingly difficult conditions. Visibility was poor and it began snowing at around mid-morning each day. We decided to wait for an improvement in the weather calculating that we had until 26th March before having to make a go for base camp. With still another six days trekking to base, this would just allow us enough time to mount a lightweight attempt for the summit. We made another inspection during this waiting period and found conditions had not improved.

  The weather continued to be very bad with continuous rain until it showed an improvement 19th March. On this day we left Tashigaon with two Sherpa's tents and food to attempt to force a way over into the Barun Valley. We pitched the tents in deteriorating conditions at 3600m. The following day dawned beautiful and clear so we continued on up the ridge often in deep unconsolidated snow, but again the weather had deteriorated by midday with poor visibility and snow. We had reached a point close to Shipton Pass at 4100m. We decided to retreat back down to our camp on the ridge, our trail already blotted out by snowfall. We spent another night there in continuing snow and wind. Around another six inches of snow fell that night. The following morning we descended to Tashigaon 22nd March.

  In accepting responsibility for the safety and well-being of our staff, we concluded that it would be impossible to commit load-carrying porters to the passes and high valley beyond. Our two Sherpas and ourselves found things very difficult despite being fully equipped for mountaineering. An attempted crossing would expose our staff to potential frostbite or a fatal slip. Conditions dictated that there would be a need for fixed ropes on parts of the route. In it's present condition we estimated that it could take some weeks of fine weather before a safe crossing could be made, so we therefore decided to abandon the expedition and return to Kathmandu. We left Tashigaon 24th March and arrived back in Kathmandu 28th March.

  Disappointment does not properly convey my true feelings. I'm devastated that all the effort, expense and emotional strain has been wasted by our failure to even reach base camp.


expid: KHAT00101
peakid: KHAT
year: 2000
route1: NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: David Glen
countries: USA
agency: None
routememo:
  Made no attempt to climb any mountain. The effort getting to Lumding was all that Franke (with an artificial leg) could manage.


expid: DHA100301
peakid: DHA1
year: 2000
route1: N Face (Pear rte)
nation: S Korea
leaders: Han Gab-Hyun
bcdate: 2000-08-31
smtdate: 2000-09-24
termdate: 2000-10-04
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to fatal avalanche
accidents: Ha fell in crevasse, not hurt; Lee killed by avalanche
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(31/08,4600m),ABCdepot(06/09,5000m),C1(13/09,5400m),C2(20/09,5700m),C3(24/09,6000m),xxx(24/09,6000m)

routememo:
  C3 for deposited supplies for C3 (not slept in)
  High point below "Pear" on North Face (C3 site).

  24 Sept deposited supplies at 6000m and to C3. 25 Sept all members and Sherpas down to BC for rest. 29th avalanche of snow 20 meters wide hit Lee-Kang party going up. Lee's backpack frame bent by what was either rock or ice block in avalanche snow. All members down to BC on 29th. We know very difficult on ridge above 7500m but never thought of danger below 6000m though many. Joo and leader want to return after 2 years or more to take picture of Lee to summit. Must be by same route. "I must come back."

  Crevasse there, but never thought of avalanches.


  Korean Dhaulagiri I - 5 Oct 2000

  1st team: we separated 2 teams.
  2nd team: Kim Jung-Dae, Joo Dong-Ho, Yoo Soon-Ook, Ha Tae-Young
  Couple of days ago we made route near C3 so we deposit some equipment there and come back to BC. And we stay 3 days in BC.

  27 Sept - Mr Lee was going to depot point (1-day stay)

  28 Sept - Mr Lee was going to C1 and Mr Kang, Mr Jun also was going to C1: and 4:00 pm they met in C1. 3 Sherpas also going in C1. Stay C1 member is Mr Lee, Kang, Jun and 3 Sherpas. B team stayed in BC.

  29 Sept - A team was going to C3 at 7:00 am. 2nd team started to C1 from 6:30 am and 3 Sherpas started later from C1 to C2. A team met avalanche of snow (8:20 am).

  First Mr Jun, second Mr Lee, third Mr Kang. Mr Jun heard avalanche sound and running to the front towards C2 and turned his eyes. There's no man behind only snow. So Mr Jun returning to C1, he requested rescue to Sherpas and Mr Jun came back to accident area. He used stick to search our members and then Sherpas arrived, together they tried to find members.

  AM 8:50  They found Mr Lee's backpack.
           Mr Jun found a radio in his backpack and he told of this 
           accident to our members by radio. Mr Yoo and Mr Ha ran to C1.
           Mr Joo ran to BC and went to Marpha to call to Korea.
           Mr Kim stood by depot point with Mr Lim.

  AM 9:10  They dug out Mr. Lee's body.
           Mr Jun was doing artificial breathing for Mr Lee about 1 hour.
           3 Sherpas were trying to find Mr Kang. Used stick and ice-axe.

  AM 9:50  Mr Kang was pushed by snow and fell into a narrow crevasse.
           He found his mind to look around. There was no light and he found
           a radio and requested rescue. He was covered by snow, so Sherpas
           didn't find him.

  AM 9:58  Mr Kang used backpack frame and pushed up snow covering him and 
           cleared upside snow. Sherpa Nima Gyalzen saw that and rescued him.

  AM 10:16 Sirdar and Mr Kang came back to C1.

  AM 10:40 Mr Jun and 2 Sherpas confirm his body dead and they managed to put
           his body in a sleeping bag.

  AM 10:50 They carried his body to C1.

  AM 11:20 2 Sherpas and Mr Jun arrived C1 with his dead body.

  PM 12:30 Mr Yoo and Mr Ha arrived C1.

  PM 13:40 Mr Kang and Mr Jun started to BC.

  PM 14:00 3 Sherpas, Mr Ha and Mr Yoo carry the body.
   
  PM 16:40 The body arrived depot point.

  PM 18:10 All members came back to BC.


expid: TILI00303
peakid: TILI
year: 2000
route1: NE Spur-N Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Jean-Michel Mayor
sponsor: Tilicho Y 2000
countries: France
approach: Manang (from Pisang Peak)
bcdate: 2000-11-04
smtdate: 2000-11-10
termdate: 2000-11-12
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to strong wind
othersmts: Attempted Pisang Peak (Mayor and 2 others)
campsites: BC(04/11,4960m),C1(08/11,5900m),C2(09/11,6300m),xxx(10/11,6900m)
accidents: Mayor one finger frostbitten but will heal
agency: Sherpa & Swiss Adventures
routememo:
  BC northwest end of Tilicho Lake
  C1 at NE Spur
  C2 at junction of NE Spur and North Ridge.

  10 Nov Mayor, Deriaz and Ang Sherpa left C2 for top, but wind too strong and Deriaz turned back at 6700m and Mayor and Sherpa to 6900m and then down. Both C2 that night. 11 Nov wind even stronger and down to BC that day and climb finished. 

  Other 2 French members went to C2 on 9 Nov but turned back on 10th with other Sherpa (Nawang Chhu) to BC that day and left BC 11 Nov.


expid: TILI00302
peakid: TILI
year: 2000
route1: NE Spur-N Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Georges Frey
sponsor: Isere Tilicho 2000
ascent1: 25th
approach: Via Manang
bcdate: 2000-10-01
smtdate: 2000-10-08
termdate: 2000-10-11
campsites: BC(01/10,4500m),C1(05/10,5850m),C2(07/10,6250m),Smt(08/10)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Mandala Trekking
routememo:
  BC at north end of Lake Tilicho
  C1 at NE Spur
  C2 where spur reaches North Ridge.

  Last day from C2 very long; would be better to place C2 200m higher along North Ridge (actually slightly on West Face and could be dangerous from avalanches of much snow). 8th Oct Georges Frey and his nephew started for top with 3 Gurungs. Refait turned back at 6805m because feet cold while others to top. 

  2nd summit bid by Phillipe Frey and Plessis but not above C2. Here slept 10th night only because too much snow and avalanche danger on West Face. Surprised by steepness of NE Spur.


expid: ANN100302
peakid: ANN1
year: 2000
route1: N Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Tomiyasu Ishikawa
sponsor: Aichi Mountaineering Association Annapurna I Expedition 2000
bcdate: 2000-09-10
smtdate: 2000-10-04
termdate: 2000-10-10
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to avalanching
campsites: BC(10/09,4300m),C1(14/09,5100m),C2(18/09,5500m),C3(02/10,6600m),xxx(04/10,6900m)
agency: Himalayan Journeys
routememo:
  Ishikawa and Takina and sirdar Nima Dorje fixed rope to 6900m on Oct 4. Down to C2 and climb finished because avalanching and tired. Returned to BC 7 Oct. Everyday avalanches on North Face.


expid: DHA100302
peakid: DHA1
year: 2000
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Takao Suzuki
bcdate: 2000-09-10
smtdate: 2000-10-07
termdate: 2000-10-21
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to deep snow and winds
campsites: BC(10/09,4600m),C1(22/09,5700m),C2(27/09,6600m),xxx(07/10,7600m)
accidents: Sherpa killed by avalanche
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC slightly higher than Koreans (normal site)
  C1 slight above NE Col on NE Ridge
  C2 on NE Ridge
  High point at NE Ridge C3 site.

  7 Oct reached C3 site at 7600m but made no camp because intended to stay only one night there and wind very strong so turned back; deep snow and avalanching so went down to C2 to sleep. Down to BC next day. Tried to return to assault and reached C2 again 2 times, but never got much above C2 as deep snow and winds stopped progress higher. Also 4 Japanese had left expedition on or before 15 Oct and remaining members' health "not so good." 

    Takahashi left BC 22 Sept to return to his job in Japan
    Fuchida   left BC 15 Oct  to return to his job in Japan
    M. Suzuki left BC 15 Oct  to return to her job in Japan
    T. Suzuki left BC 15 Oct  with stomach trouble

  Chuldim Gyalzen Sherpa (35) from Thami, swept away by avalanche from C2 on 2 Oct. Body not found in 2 day's search.


expid: TILI00304
peakid: TILI
year: 2000
route1: NE Spur-N Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Markus Schnizler
sponsor: Schwabensreich 2000 to Tilicho
approach: Mesokanto Pass
bcdate: 2000-10-10
smtdate: 2000-10-25
termdate: 2000-10-28
campsites: BC(10/10,4800m),C1(23/10,5700m),xxx(25/10,5900m)
agency: Yeti Mountaineering & Trekking
routememo:
  BC west of Tilicho Lake (normal site)
  C1 at NE Spur
  High point at NE Spur.

  Snowfall in just few days and feared avalanching and unable to find ropes left for them by French expedition, which were buried in the snow. 24th Oct found French ropes above and problem making route and exhausted by making steps in fresh snow, so went to 5800m and returned to C1. 25th tried to go up to ridge and 1 reached only 5800m and Schnizler to only 5900m, but turned back because he did not feel strong to continue up alone, and returned to C1 and same day removed C1 and climb finished.

  * used French ropes


expid: ANN300301
peakid: ANN3
year: 2000
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Boris Strmsek
sponsor: Slovenian Expedition Annapurna III
approach: Modi Khola->Machhapuchare BC
bcdate: 2000-09-28
smtdate: 2000-10-18
termdate: 2000-10-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to leader's toothache and C3 destroyed by winds
campsites: BC(28/09,4050m),C1(03/10,5100m),C2(10/10,5830m),C3(14/10,6560m),xxx(18/10,6800m)
accidents: Strmsek infected tooth; Zorman bad pulmonary edema 30 Sept but recovered lower altitude
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC on East Annapurna Glacier
  C1 at bottom of SW Ridge on East Annapurna Glacier
  C2 at small plateau on ridge
  C3 on ridge on small step in snow
  High point at top of SW Ridge.

  Just above C1 vertical rock of 35m and it was most difficult section of route. Had to stop ascent on 18 Oct because Strmsek got toothache and had go to go down. Belay partner Zorman was 60m below him. 

  Another summit party of Lorencic, Sinkovic and Sumnik reached C3 23 Oct to find tent pole destroyed and wind had also taken away sleeping bag, cooking gear, etc., so had to go down. 

  Had almost daily new snowfall throughout climb and after loose rocks, loosened by fixed rope, fell. Once C1 tent received ice piece of serac which made hole in tent. 

  This ridge was not the one Strmsek's expedition attempted in autumn 1994, but two ridges to the right of that one which was on the West Face. This probably a new line.

  Sirdar Kami Tenzing Sherpa
  Assistant Lhakpa Tsering Sherpa
    Above BC?


expid: DHA100303
peakid: DHA1
year: 2000
route1: NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
sponsor: Terres d'Adventure Dhaulagiri Expedition 2000
bcdate: 2000-09-21
smtdate: 2000-10-08
termdate: 2000-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7550m due to deep snow and avalanche danger
campsites: BC(21/09,4950m),C1(26/09,5850m),C2(30/09,6500m),C3(06/10,7550m),xxx(08/10,7550m)
agency: Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
routememo:
  BC at normal site (same as Japanese and South Korea)
  C1 at NE Col
  C2 on NE Ridge
  C3 on NE Ridge.

  From C3 down 8th to C1 to rest and to carry up more ropes. Tried to go up from C1 3 more times but impossible because wind and snow slab avalanche danger between C1 and C2 especially at C2. Last attempt to go to C3 on 18 Oct by Georges, De Gabai and Aubertin, but stopped at C2 by snow and avalanche danger. Emphasis on safety as commercial expedition "cost us the summit." Very good relations with Koreans and Japanese after a little while and good co-operation among the 3 teams.

  6 Oct C3 reached by Constantin, Faisy, De Gabai, Georges and Grobel.


expid: KOTA82302
peakid: KOTA
year: 1982
route1: E Face
nation: India
leaders: Gautom Ray
sponsor: North Bengal Explorers Club
ascent1: 4th
bcdate: 1982-10-18
smtdate: 1982-10-31
campsites: BC(18/10,4420m),ABC(5030m),C1(5180m),C2(5640m),Smt(31/10)
routememo:
  a) A territorial army team from India is reported to have climbed this many summited peak on 11, 13 and 14 Oct. Expedition was on the SW Face. This peak has many different high points on a ridge and each can be mistaken for the highest summit as often done in the past.

  b) A North Bengal Explorers Club expedition led by G. Roy claimed ascent on 31st Oct by two members and four Sherpas. Keeping in mind the serrated summit ridge it is difficult to be sure wheather the real top was reached until further details/photographs are examined.


expid: AMAD00307
peakid: AMAD
year: 2000
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Masakazu Okuda
sponsor: Windbell Club Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 313
approach: Thyangboche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2000-09-28
smtdate: 2000-10-09
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2000-10-13
campsites: BC(28/09,4500m),C1(04/10,5600m),C2(06/10,6000m),Smt(09/10)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Oct 4 to C1. Slept all members and one Sherpa.
  Oct 6 to C2. Slept Okuda, Nakamura and Sherpa. 

  Kobayashi left 6 Oct for BC. Did not continue as she had to go back to Japan due to short leave.

  Oct 9 left C2 at 01:30 hours, reached summit at 11:00 hours. Stayed about 20 min. Reached C2 about 16:00 hours. The weather on that day was very good. Snow condition was very good.

  The team returned to KTM on Oct 17 and will leave on 21. 

  Okuda lost fingers and toes - is correct (Kangch '98). May be attempt on Dhaulagiri next spring.


expid: AMAD00301
peakid: AMAD
year: 2000
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Konrad Prantl
ascent1: 343,344
countries: Austria, Germany
approach: Lukla->Dingboche
bcdate: 2000-11-09
smtdate: 2000-11-14
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2000-11-16
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak on Nov 7 (Moser, Pixner, Prantl and Tembler)
campsites: BC(09/11,4600m),C1(12/11,5800m),Smt(14-15/11)
accidents: Griesbaum got altitude sickness at Lobuche, taken down to Pheriche
agency: Sherpa Summit Treks
routememo:
  Nov 3 or Nov 4 from KTM by helicopters.

  Nov 14: Hanser left C1 at about 04:00 hours, reached summit at 12:00 hours,
          spent about 30 minutes and down to BC around 17:00 hours.

  Nov 15: Moser, Pixner, Prantl and Trembler left C1 about 04:00 hours, 
          reached summit between 12-13:00 hours, spent about 80 minutes
          on summit, returned to C1 around 16:00 hours.

  The team returned to KTM on Nov 21 and leaves Nepal on Nov 25.


expid: AMAD00302
peakid: AMAD
year: 2000
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Massimo Faletti
sponsor: Guide Alpin del Trentino
ascent1: 332,334
approach: Lukla->Thyangboche
bcdate: 2000-10-24
smtdate: 2000-10-30
smttime: 1050
termdate: 2000-11-04
campsites: BC(24/10,4600m),ABC(26/10,5500m),C1(27/10,5800m),C2(28/10,6200m),Smt(30/10,01/11)
agency: Holiday Adventures
routememo:
  Oct 30 - Oprandi and Sette left C2 at 02:00 hours. Oprandi summit at 
           10:50 hours, waited for Sette who reached summit at 11:34 hours.
           Stayed about 30 minutes, down to C2 at about 16:00 hours.
  Nov 01 - Calligaris and Faletti left C2 at 02:00 hours, 09:00 summit, 
           stayed about 10 minutes, down to C2 at about 12:00 hours.

  Rest of the members reached up to C2, then down due to sickness.

  The team returned to KTM on 09 Nov. Prestini leaving on Nov 12. Rest of the members on Nov 19 except leader Faletti who intends to stay for some time.


expid: AMAD00303
peakid: AMAD
year: 2000
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Manfred Reichelt
bcdate: 2000-11-08
smtdate: 2000-11-11
termdate: 2000-11-13
termnote: Abandoned at 6250m due to being alone and inexperienced
campsites: BC(08/11,4550m),C1(10/11),xxx(11/11,6250m)
agency: Langtang Ri Trekking
routememo:
  C1 used Polish tent
  High point below normal C3.

  Reichelt developed serious pulmonary edema at BC and on 10 Nov was evacuated from Pangboche by helicopter. Bauregger returned from Pangboche to BC on 10 Nov, went to C1 same day and tried for top on 11 Nov. But being alone now and inexperienced, she was afraid to go higher than 6250m alone and turned back and descended to BC same day.


expid: AMAD00304
peakid: AMAD
year: 2000
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Thorsten Schueller
sponsor: Rheinpfalz Ama Dablam
ascent1: 314 w/Aus
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Sukum
bcdate: 2000-10-07
smtdate: 2000-10-13
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2000-10-15
othersmts: Lobuche top (E Ridge) before Ama Dablam
campsites: BC(07/10,4500m),ABC(08/10,5400m),C1(09/10,5800m),C2(12/10,6100m),Smt(13/10)
agency: Glacier Dome
routememo:
  Oct 13 left C2 at 02:00, reached summit at 13:00 hours, spent half an hour. It was windy, cold, clear sky. Way down to C2 spent about two hours in C3 in a tent due to strong wind. They felt cold feet. Reached C2 at 20:00 hours. Next day BC. There were with two Austrian climbers, climbing together.

  Liaison Officer: They were of the opinion that instead of each expedition having an LO, it would be better to keep a ranger in the BC.

  SPCC - They appreciated the cleaning of the BC by SPCC. But they found lots of garbage along the trails (bottles, tin trash, etc.).
   
  Expedition returned to KTM from Lukla on 18. Accomodated at Nepal Peace 6/H as the hotel was overbooked. They leave KTM on Oct 20.


expid: AMAD00305
peakid: AMAD
year: 2000
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Ferdinando Nusdeo
sponsor: Menza 2000 to Ama Dablam
ascent1: 319,323
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2000-10-14
smtdate: 2000-10-18
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2000-10-22
campsites: BC(14/10,4600m),ABC(15/10,5400m),C1(17/10,5800m),C3(18/10,6300m),Smt(18-19/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  First group of two people started from BC on 17th at 4:30 am, reached C3 at 4:30 pm and spent night at C3. Started at 6:30 am of 18th Oct and reached to the summit at 10 am, spent one hour on the top, took photographs came back to BC at 6 pm of 18th.

  Second group of four people started on 17th Oct at 8:30 am and reached C1 at 3:30 pm, spent night in C1. They started at 7:30 am of 18th, reached C3 at 4 pm of 18th, spent night in C3. Started at 7 am of 19th, reached the summit at 10:30, spent one hour on the top. There were 13 people on the top on that day. Came back to BC at 8 pm of 19th Oct.

  Other 3 people only reached to C1.


expid: AMAD00308
peakid: AMAD
year: 2000
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Johan Perrier
ascent1: 320
bcdate: 2000-10-09
smtdate: 2000-10-19
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2000-10-23
campsites: BC(09/10,4600m),ABC(10/10,5200m),C1(12/10,5700m),C2(18/10,6200m),Smt(19/10)
agency: Sailung Adventure Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at beginning of SW Ridge
  C2 on SW Ridge.

  19 Oct left C2 1:45 am, very clear on top 7:30 am and down to BC at 5:30 pm in fog. Climbed entirely independent of 2 Spaniards on same permit.


expid: AMAD00309
peakid: AMAD
year: 2000
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Francisco Navas
ascent1: 324
approach: Lukla->Mingbo BC
bcdate: 2000-10-01
smtdate: 2000-10-19
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2000-10-23
campsites: BC(01/10,4600m),ABC(06/10,5400m),C1(08/10,5700m),C2(11/10,6100m),C3(18/10,6300m),Smt(19/10)
accidents: Goikoutxea snowblind
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Oct 19 all members left C3 at 07:00 hours. Aranalde reached summit at about 10:30 hours, Navas at 11:00 hours, and Estbariz and Goikoetxea at 11:30 hours. All down to C2.

  The German expedition members reached the summit before them.

  The expedition members returned to KTM on Oct 25 and leave Nepal on Oct 30.


expid: AMAD00310
peakid: AMAD
year: 2000
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Claudio Inselvini
sponsor: Dislivello 2000 to Ama Dablam
ascent1: 318,322
approach: Lukla->Pangboche
bcdate: 2000-10-08
smtdate: 2000-10-17
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2000-10-22
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak on Oct 6 (all members)
campsites: BC(08/10,4700m),ABC(12/10,5500m),C1(16/10,5800m),C2(19/10,6100m),Smt(17/10,19)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Oct 17 - Fregona and Piccoli left C2 at 04:00 hours, summit at 12:00 
           hours. Spent about 30 minutes, to BC at 19:00 hours.
  Oct 19 - Leader and Trippa left C2 at 02:30 hours, summit 08:30 hours, spent
           about 4 hours, to C2 at 16:00 hours. Clear day, little bit 
           windy. There were about 10 climbers on the summit during their
           stay on the summit.

  Oct 19 - Piccoli left BC and left Nepal on Oct 24 due to short holiday.

  Very satisfied. Returned to KTM on Oct 28 and leave Nepal on Oct 30.


expid: AMAD00311
peakid: AMAD
year: 2000
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Christian Nedomlel
sponsor: Nedomlel Schuster Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 314 w/Ger
bcdate: 2000-10-04
smtdate: 2000-10-13
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2000-10-16
campsites: BC(04/10,4500m),ABC(07/10,5300m),C1(11/10,5800m),C2(12/10,6100m),Smt(13/10)
agency: Lali Gurans
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at start of SW Ridge
  C2 on SW Ridge.

  Climbed from BC to top starting on 11 Oct to go to top. Both Germans and Austrians climbed together from BC and both returned to C2 to sleep on 13th and all down to BC on 14th. 

  Austrian tent stolen at Phakding, so another German expedition (DAV Summit Club) gave Austrians a tent for C2 which Austrians left at C2 for them.


expid: AMAD00312
peakid: AMAD
year: 2000
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Peter Gujan
sponsor: Capricorn Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 336,339,340
bcdate: 2000-10-31
smtdate: 2000-11-07
smttime: 1150
termdate: 2000-11-11
campsites: BC(31/10,4550m),C1(02/11,5800m),Smt(07-09/11)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  3rd Nov down to BC. 4th and 5th in BC. 6th Peter to C1 alone. 7th 5:45 am from C1 to top and on top 11:50 am, down to BC 6:00 pm same day. Others 3 members together to C1 on 7th. 8th Markus Gujan and Zinsli to top and Alex stayed alone in C1 8th night and to top on 9th (extra day because of headache in C1).


expid: AMAD00313
peakid: AMAD
year: 2000
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Heinz Mueller
sponsor: Swiss Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 321
approach: Lukla->Thyangboche
bcdate: 2000-10-15
smtdate: 2000-10-19
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2000-10-23
campsites: BC(15/10,4600m),C1(17/10,5800m),C2(18/10,6300m),Smt(19/10)
accidents: Bruno Mueller altitude sickness
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  Oct 19 - Gisler, H Mueller and Tresch started at 05:30, summit 08:00 hours. 
           Stayed about half an hour, down to BC around 16:00 hours.
           Clear day. There were ten more people on the summit.
  Oct 22 - Indergand climbed up to 6700m with Pemba Dorje Sherpa and 
           had to retreat to BC due to strong wind and cold.

  Bruno Mueller climbed up to 5500m, then back to BC. He got cold and on 16th went down to Pangboche then to Khunde Hospital.

  Base camp and high camps were clean.

  The expedition returned to KTM on Nov 2 leaves on Nov 4.


expid: AMAD00314
peakid: AMAD
year: 2000
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Herbert Streibel
sponsor: Ama Dablam Expedition 2000
ascent1: 315,316
bcdate: 2000-10-04
smtdate: 2000-10-15
termdate: 2000-10-19
campsites: BC(04/10,4600m),C1(09/10,5350m),C2(10/10,5800m),C3(14/10,6300m),Smt(15-16/10)
accidents: Schuetz chest infection
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at slept in only this night by 1st group only 10th for 2nd party.

  On 15th Mr and Mrs Klink started up later (7:00 am) than others because very cold and stayed that night in C3 because of late arrival while others summiters descended to C2 for the night. Summiters on 15th were only people to top that day.

  Summiters on 16th were on top before the only others, who were Tim Rippel's team. Streibel to top from C3 on 16th.

  Returned to KTM after trek to Dingboche, Chhukung, Thyangboche, Namche, Thami and Namche.


expid: AMAD00315
peakid: AMAD
year: 2000
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Ryszard Pawlowski
sponsor: Patagonia Mountain Agency (PMA) Ama Dablam Expedition 2000
ascent1: 335,338,341
countries: USA
bcdate: 2000-10-28
smtdate: 2000-11-06
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2000-11-12
campsites: BC(28/10,4500m),C1(30/10,5700m),C2(02/11,5900m),C3(05/11,6200m),Smt(06,08,12/11)
accidents: Mitchell returned to C1 31 Oct with knee pain: 1 Nov chopper to BC
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C2 pitched 2 Nov but slept in only one night by one member.

  10 Nov summiters: Pasang on top at 8:00 am, then someone from other expedition summited, Orlowski on top at 2:00 pm, Snow on top at 2:30 pm.

  Snow slept in C2 in descent because not feeling strong. Other summiters on this expedition went down to C1 to sleep after reaching top.


expid: AMAD00317
peakid: AMAD
year: 2000
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Silvio Mondinelli
ascent1: 329
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2000-10-25
smtdate: 2000-10-27
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2000-10-27
campsites: BC(25/10,4500m),C1(26/10,5200m),Smt(27/10)
achievment: Possibly the shortest time taken from C1 to summit
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Mondinelli started on 26th Oct at 4:30 pm and reached to C1 at 7 pm on 26th Oct. Took rest in C1 till 12 midnight. Started at 12 midnight of 26th Oct for summit and reached to summit at 6:30 am of 27th Oct. Spent 1/2 hour on the top, took photographs and took back to BC at 10:30 am of 27th Oct. The same day went down to Namche to spend night. Reached to Namche at 4:30 of 27th Oct.

  Planning to climb in future.

  Everest    - Spring 2001 through Thamserku Trekking
  Dhaulagiri - Autumn 2001 through Cho-Oyu Trekking


expid: AMAD00318
peakid: AMAD
year: 2000
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Nick Kekus
sponsor: OTT (Out There Trekking) Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 330,331,333
countries: USA
approach: Lukla->Pangboche
bcdate: 2000-10-20
smtdate: 2000-10-29
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2000-11-03
campsites: BC(20-21/10,4700m),C1(23/10,5800m),C2(26/10,6000m),C3(28/10,6200m),Smt(29-31/10)
agency: High Country Trekking
routememo:
  Oct 29: McDermott and Nima Sherpa left C2 at 04:30 hours, summit at 08:00, 
          stayed about half an hour, down to BC about 17:00 hours.
  Oct 30: Mobbs and Pemba Sherpa left C3 about 04:30 hours, summit 08:30, stayed 
          less than half an hour, down to C1 at about 17:00 hours, next
          day to BC.
  Oct 31: Davey, Kekus, Moores, Nuttall and Powell and Lhakpa Sherpa left C3 at 
          05:00, summit between 09:00 to 09:30, stayed about half an hour, 
          down to C1 about 18:00 hours. Next day to BC. Summit days were 
          clear, windy and very cold.

  McDermott left BC on Oct 30. Mobbs left BC on Oct 31. Richardson and Shin left BC on Nov 01. Richardson leaves Nepal on Nov 21. Shin left on Nov 5.

  The expedition returned to KTM on Nov 06 and is trying to leave KTM on Nov 10. They have reservations for 12th.

  Youngest member is 18 years old.

  SPCC's works appreciated. The toilets they found dirty. They fear increase of rat population if things remain the same. They had bit of talk about the possible future this problem with SPCC.


expid: AMAD00319
peakid: AMAD
year: 2000
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Grant Statham
sponsor: Alpine Specialists Ama Dablam 2000
ascent1: 327
countries: USA
bcdate: 2000-10-15
smtdate: 2000-10-22
termdate: 2000-10-25
campsites: BC(15/10,4600m),C1(18/10,5600m),C2(20/10,6100m),C3(21/10,6500m),Smt(22/10)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at base of sharp ridge section, where broad ridge ends on S Ridge
  C2 on narrow slope of S Ridge
  C3 on S Ridge.

  22 Oct 4 summiters went to top from C3 and slept in C2, down to BC 23 Oct. "We had a perfect trip" Statham said. Above C4 joined SW Ridge to summit.


  5 Nov 2000 - David Hiddleston, leader of New Zealand expedition: 

  On 21 Oct Grant Statham, Larry Stanier, Mantle and Williams climbed SW Ridge. From C2 went to summit on 22 Oct and down to BC on 23rd. No C3. They had permit for SE Ridge, but did not climb it as they claimed, not wanting Ministry of Tourism to learn this.


expid: AMAD00320
peakid: AMAD
year: 2000
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Adrian Ballinger
ascent1: 337
bcdate: 2000-11-03
smtdate: 2000-11-08
smttime: 0920
termdate: 2000-11-09
campsites: BC(03/11,4600m),C1(07/11,5800m),Smt(08/11)
agency: Himalayan Treks (Him Treks)
routememo:
  Left C1 at 2:30 am 8 Nov. "It was so nice to have the lines to myself and the route to myself and I wanted to summit before the clouds come in" - "it was a great day." On top 9:20 am, spent over an hour on top taking pictures and enjoying having summit all to himself. Down all the way to BC. "It was a long day." Reached BC at 6:00 pm 8 Nov. Swiss on Capricorn expedition gave him tea and whiskey on his arrival at BC.


expid: AMAD00321
peakid: AMAD
year: 2000
route1: S Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Barry Blanchard, Catherine Mulvihill
sponsor: Independent team on Statham permit
bcdate: 2000-10-13
smtdate: 2000-10-18
termdate: 2000-10-21
termnote: Abandoned due to difficult snow conditions & lack of motivation
campsites: BC(13/10,4600m),C1(15/10,5600m),C2(16/10,6100m),C3(17/10,6500m),xxx(18/10,6700m)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  Reached couple hundred meters above C3 on 18th, then retreated because of poor snow conditions (unconsolidated and deep). Retreated to C2 that night. 19th to BC.

  Independent team on Statham's permit and climbed same route as that of Canadian-US expedition.


  5 Nov 2000 - David Hiddleston, leader of New Zealand expedition: 

  Blanchard and Mulvihill (his wife) turned back at about 5800m because of unconsolidated snow on the ridge. When Blanchard was descending, he called down to Statham, who was at base of S Ridge (at about 5300m) and ready to go up it and told Statham ridge not possible.


expid: AMAD00323
peakid: AMAD
year: 2000
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Tim Rippel
sponsor: Peak Freaks Ama Dablam Expedition 2000
ascent1: 317
countries: Norway, USA
bcdate: 2000-10-03
smtdate: 2000-10-16
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2000-10-22
campsites: BC(03/10,4600m),ABC(09/10,5200m),C1(11/10,5700m),C2(15/10,6200m),Smt(16/10)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  C1 on SW Ridge
  C2 at normal C3 site on ridge.

  16 Oct reached top at 11:30 on average, all after Germans. Stayed on top 1-1/2 hours, with  no wind, very clear and very warm (gloves off), ate lunch and took lots of photos. Day before and after, strong winds and cold.


expid: AMAD00324
peakid: AMAD
year: 2000
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Andrew (Stanlei) Gilhooly
approach: Lukla->Thyangboche
bcdate: 2000-10-16
smtdate: 2000-10-24
termdate: 2000-10-26
termnote: Abandoned at 6650m due to exhaustion
campsites: BC(16/10,4600m),ABC(18/10,5400m),C1(22/10,5800m),C2(23/10,6200m),xxx(24/10,6650m)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Oct 24 left C2 at 06:00, 10:30 felt exhausted and cold back to C1 at around 16:00 hours. Weather conditions quite good.

  Sherpas: Dawa Temba and Tenzing Sherpa

  BC well kept.


expid: AMAD00325
peakid: AMAD
year: 2000
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Mark Valdez
sponsor: Ama Dablam Expedition 2000
ascent1: 326
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2000-10-18
smtdate: 2000-10-21
smttime: 1015
termdate: 2000-10-23
campsites: BC(18/10,4200m),C1(20/10,5700m),C2(21/10,5980m),Smt(21/10)
agency: Himalayan Sherpa Nepal
routememo:
  Oct 21 left C2 at 02:30 hours, reached summit at 10:15 hours. Spent about 25 minutes on summit. Returned to C2 at 16:00 hours. Had rest about two hours in C3 site.

  Barton Bemus had to stop at C2 due to headache. Rest were in C1. It was windy and clear day.

  Valdez says he was the only person on the mountain on the summit. Climbed alone. Probably only person done so in the year 2000.

  Other members might had done better if the Sherpas were skilled climbers. Actually the agency suggested they have Sherpas. Ang Dorji Sherpa (53) too old to do work. Lhakpa Temba Sherpa (39) is shy and following the advice of Ang Dorji.

  They appreciate the job of SPCC, but they feel they need more monitoring of their job.


expid: AMAD00316
peakid: AMAD
year: 2000
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Matthew Walker, Matt Szundy
ascent1: 342
bcdate: 2000-11-05
smtdate: 2000-11-12
smttime: 1700
termdate: 2000-11-14
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak first (Szundy)
campsites: BC(05/11,4630m),C1(09/11,5850m),C2(11/11,6065m),Smt(12/11)
agency: Himalayan Treks (Him Treks)
routememo:
  BC at normal site.

  12 Nov summiters left C2 at 9:00 am, lots later because waiting for the sun to get into their rocks. Reached top at 5:00 pm. Slow progress to top because not using fixed ropes at all in US alpine-style. Stayed 10 minutes at top and then down to C2, where arrived in darkness at 8:30-9:00 pm (descent in dark and cold - not a good idea to have not put in a C3). Used fixed ropes to rappel down from just below top and nearly to C2 (so this part not US alpine-style). 

  Had no kitchen boy and brought little food from US; next time would bring more.


expid: AMAD00402
peakid: AMAD
year: 2000
route1: SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Song Jung-Doo
sponsor: 2001 Korean Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 345
approach: Lukla->Pangboche
bcdate: 2000-11-25
smtdate: 2000-12-05
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2000-12-07
campsites: BC(25/11,4500m),C1(28/11,5800m),C2(01/12,6100m),C3(03/12,6400m),Smt(05/12)
agency: Sarang San Treks
routememo:
  Dec 03: Seung-Jo Lee, Hee-Young Park, Ki-Hwan You and Dawa left BC.  
          Seung-Jo Lee had to return to BC from C1 due to headache and vomit.
  Dec 04: Ki-Hwan You went down to BC due to exhaustion. 
          Hee-Young Park and Dawa left the camp at about 07:30 hours. 
          Summit at 12:30 hours, stayed about 20 minutes, back to C3 around 
          15:00 hours, then to C1 around 19:00 hours.

  The leader said: weather was very good throughout the expedition period but had strong wind.

  According to expedition leader: among the four expeditions, his team was the last to start and first to get to the summit.

  The team returned to KTM on Dec 09 and will leave the country on Dec 12.


expid: AMAD00403
peakid: AMAD
year: 2000
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Inaki Ochoa
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 346
countries: Australia, Canada, Spain, UK
bcdate: 2000-11-18
smtdate: 2000-12-06
termdate: 2000-12-08
campsites: BC(18/11,4680m),C1(25/11,5800m),C3(30/11,6380m),Smt(06/12)
accidents: No accidents: 2 frostnip members and several cases of mild sicknesses
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  C1 at start of SW Ridge
  C3 at slightly lower than normal (under dablam).

  C3 (actually C2 for this team but near normal C3) 20m below normal site because 6400m exposed to winds and 6380m under serac and protected from wind). Down to BC 1 Dec for 2 days rest and back to C3 on 5 Dec (4 British and Inaki: 1 Brit and Aussie had frostnip and left expedition 24-25 Nov; Benedict Clowes frostbite and left BC 2 Dec with Mooney, et al of Camp 5 group). 6 Dec 2 British not well and down to BC and 2 others and Inaki and 2 Sherpas to top (Stanford and Thomas Clowes).

  Expedition composed of 5 British friends; 1 Australian with them; 1 Spaniard employed by organizers Himalayan Guides as guide/leader; 5 Americans and 1 Canadian signed up by Camp 5, the American organizers of treks and expeditions. The two groups had separate base camps, but above BC they shared same tents, food and Sherpas and climbed together as on expedition. HG group also were buffeted by winds as the Camp 5 group had been but in Nov winds slightly stronger. Mooney had date with girlfriend in KTM on 7 Dec, so left expedition and other remaining Camp 5 members, Jen and Norris, with him (Jen with frostbitten fingers).


  Mooney - 6 Dec 00 

  Camp 5 group included people "who shouldn't have been there," technically not up to this climb. Stevens only visited BC on 18 Nov and left same day saying he had girlfriend problems. Dyer, who took her makeup kit to C1, tried to get to C3 but developed altitude sickness (pulmonary edema), so down to C1 for one night, then to BC and left expedition. Nelson visited C1 but did not sleep there and left expedition 19 Nov, not ready for the climb technically and mentally. That left 3 real climbers, Mooney, Norris and Jen, who climbed together but did not go above C3 because of cold strong winds (gusts of 80-100 km/hr which partially destroyed a tent they and Ochoa slept in night of 30 Nov, so all down to BC on 1 Dec. Camp 5 trio left BC 2 Dec and arrived KTM 4 Dec, Jen with frostbitten fingers that heal.


expid: AMAD00401
peakid: AMAD
year: 2000
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Andy Owen
sponsor: Jagged Globe Ama Dablam Expedition 2000
ascent1: 347
countries: Norway, USA
bcdate: 2000-11-26
smtdate: 2000-12-07
smttime: 1115
termdate: 2000-12-09
campsites: BC(26/11,4600m),C1(27/11,5600m),C3(06/12,6300m),Smt(07/12)
accidents: 2 cases of incipient altitude sickness; Bjolseth and Hayward waiting
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Left C3 7:00 am (2 Sherpas and 3 members). Hayward turned back at 6500m (because exhausted from long day's climbing before and slightly affected by altitude) with one Sherpa, while others went to top at about 11:15 am. They were only people on top that day. White not acclimatizing at base camp and had diarrhea and left BC and expedition 30 Nov.


expid: BARU00301
peakid: BARU
year: 2000
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Masaki Hayashi
ascent1: 53rd
approach: Tumlingtar->Shershon->Baruntse Glacier
bcdate: 2000-09-27
smtdate: 2000-10-17
smttime: 1440
termdate: 2000-10-20
campsites: BC(27/09,5200m),C1(02/10,5700m),C2(07/10,6100m),C3(16/10,6500m),Smt(17/10)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC a little west of Barun Glacier
  C1 northeast of Sherpani Col
  C2 between Sherpani Col and West Col
  C3 between point 6730m and start of SE Ridge

  Left C3 on 17 Oct for top 5:00 am and on top 2:20 pm in fine weather but strong wind and returned to C3 at 5:00 pm. 18 returned to BC. C3 to top very narrow ridge which was difficult. Fixed 500m from C3 to top as team ascended.
   
  2 crampons stolen from cache left at Sherpani Col under rock - many tourists crossing Col. Return trek by team via West Col and Mera La to Lukla.


expid: BARU00302
peakid: BARU
year: 2000
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Ruggero Pallanca
ascent1: 55th
bcdate: 2000-10-07
smtdate: 2000-11-04
termdate: 2000-11-07
campsites: BC(07/10,5300m),C1(09/10,7132m),C2(10/10,7700m),Smt(04/11)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  BC near lake west of West Col
  C1 northeast of West Col, very near it
  C2 before SE Ridge on plateau.

  Left C2 4 Nov for top at 5:30 am, on top at 12:15 pm, spent 45 minutes on top and took pictures. "Very wonderful day." Down to C3 at 4:00 pm. Returned to BC 5 Nov.


expid: BARU00303
peakid: BARU
year: 2000
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Roberto Barato
sponsor: Italian Himalayan Expedition 2000
approach: Jiri by bus->helicopter to Lukla->Hinku Valley
bcdate: 2000-09-29
smtdate: 2000-10-04
termdate: 2000-10-09
campsites: BC(20/09,5300m),C1(01/10,6100m),C2(03/10,6430m),xxx(04/10,7100m)
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at West Col.

  Oct 04 - first attempt by Filippin and Netto. 
           Left C2 06:00 hours - 12:00 hours
  Oct 06 - Second attempt by Cappena and Filippin - about same timings.

  First expedition to attempt the summit this autumn.

  Return route Amphu Laptsa, Chhukung, Namche, Lukla. Returned to KTM on Oct 20, leaving Nepal on Oct 22.


expid: BARU00304
peakid: BARU
year: 2000
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Mike Gilding
sponsor: RAF Baruntse Expedition
approach: Tumlingtar->Tashigaon->Makalu BC
bcdate: 2000-10-10
smtdate: 2000-10-14
termdate: 2000-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6950m due to soft snow conditions - clear weather
othersmts: Mera Peak on 20 Oct by all
campsites: BC(10/10,6150m),C1(13/10,6450m),xxx(14/10,6950m)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  BC close to West Col
  C1 below the Col (established on 12th).

  Oct 13 C1 below the col. Established on 12th. Oct 14 Gilding, Harris, Rowland, Woolrich attempted summit. Gilding and Harris reached up to 6950m (approx). Miss Rowland and Miss Woolrich reached about 6650m. They found difficulty in climbing.

  The team returned via Mera La -> Lukla to KTM on Oct 27. Member Ainsworth and Rowland leave Nepal on Oct 29.

  Sherpas also suggested not to continue the climb due to snow conditions.

  Sherpas: Nima Temba Sherpa (Rolwaling), 3 times Everest, been to Cho Oyu, etc 
           Somdak Sherpa and Pasang Temba Sherpa - both from Makalu region

  Woolrich is going to work in the friendship clinic in Meghauli, Chitwan for about 8 months.

  Porter Pasang Tsering Tamang (Jun 49) died due to stroke in Tangnag on Oct 22 - not related to AMS. They wanted to helicopter to lift him to KTM but weather so bad. He went up to 6000m.


expid: BARU00305
peakid: BARU
year: 2000
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Slovakia
leaders: Marcel Drobny
sponsor: Slovak Himalaya Expedition 2000
bcdate: 2000-09-27
smtdate: 2000-10-04
termdate: 2000-10-08
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to deep snow on difficult ridge
campsites: BC(27/09,5100m),ABC(29/09,5650m),C1(01/10,6150m),C2(02/10,6550m),xxx(04/10,7000m)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  BC  near small lake WSW of West Col (normal site)
  ABC (used only to store supplies - never slept in)
  C1  just east-northeast of West Col on lower Barun Glacier
  C2  SE Ridge (took 2 small tents from C1)
  High point at 7000m at 1st peak on summit ridge.

  4 Oct summit party stopped before highest peak because deep snow (sometimes to waist) on this sharp ridge. Too difficult and dangerous to fix rope there.


expid: BARU00306
peakid: BARU
year: 2000
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Sweden
leaders: Cecilia Rahlgard
ascent1: 54th
bcdate: 2000-10-07
smtdate: 2000-10-20
termdate: 2000-10-23
campsites: BC(07/10,5400m),C1(10/10,6100m),C2(14/10,6400m),Smt(20/10)
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  BC near small lake southwest of West Col
  C1 north of West Col on plateau on its east side
  C2 southwest of point 6730m Schneider map.

  Summit attempt on 15th by Falkestrom and Rimnas to 6900m and turned back by sugar snow which made protection impossible. Next summit bid was on 20th and succeeded (only summiters that day).


expid: BARU00307
peakid: BARU
year: 2000
route1: S Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Hermann Tauber
sponsor: Baruntse Expedition Bergrettung Seis 2000
countries: Germany
approach: Hinku Valley->Hongku->Mera La
bcdate: 2000-10-04
smtdate: 2000-10-15
termdate: 2000-10-16
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to deep snow, not possible to fix ropes
campsites: BC(04/10,5400m),C1(10/10,6135m),C2(11/10,6500m),xxx(15/10,6900m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Oct 05 - Put up C1, Oct 6 carried load to C1. Oct 8 put up C2, then down to BC.
  Oct 10 - Fulterer, Gasser, Janek, Karbon, Rier, Rungger, Tauber, Weissenegger,    
           Wendt spent night C1.
  Oct 11 - All the above spent night C2. Strong wind/storm. All down to BC, other
           members C1.
  Oct 15 - Up to Baruntse 6900m and down to BC.

  Thomasseth went up to West Col 6135m (72 years old).

  Robert Egger had to leave due headache (not HAS). He was sick back home too. He was together up to Chetrawala. Doctor advised him to leave. Left on Sept 28 and left Nepal on Oct 1.

  The expedition members and leader belongs to group of mountain rescue team of "Seis." Returned KTM on Oct 21, leaves on Oct 23.

  Leader planning to come autumn 2001 for Dhaulagiri I. Wishes to have some statistics of expedition on Dhaulagiri.


expid: CHMN00301
peakid: CHMN
year: 2000
route1: NE Face
nation: UK
leaders: Anthony Barton
sponsor: British Chamar Expedition 2000
countries: Sweden
bcdate: 2000-10-07
smtdate: 2000-10-18
termdate: 2000-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 5850m due to falling stone
campsites: BC(07/10,4200m),ABC(09/10,4800m),C1(12/10,5600m),xxx(18/10,5850m)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  BC  at Shringi Khola
  ABC at moraine
  C1  at glacier just before NE Face
  High point at top of snow cone foot of NE Face couloir.

  Approached mountain via Buri Gandaki and on 28th had gone half day up Shringi Khola (1 day short of BC); when coming down trail were file of monks with the head lama of monastery 2-3 hours walk up Khola. Lama said the team could not go up valley and must leave it because god lived on West Face of Shringi and if they didn't they would be met by violence. After 3-4 days of chasing him in various villages by LO and sirdar to change his mind and found him unmoved, team abandoned West Face as their objective. 

  Went around to *east side of mountain via Tunje and Sharpu Khola to climb couloir on NE Face to do a different new route. After arriving at C1, took about 6 days to ferry supplies from BC to C1 and in this period weather very warm and couloir had become chute for "incredible" amount of rock and ice. Barton and Wiggans on 18th went to top of a snow cone to get to couloir and were pelted by stones for 20 minutes and retreated. Night of 18-19 Oct Berggren and Riley went up top of snow cone and waited 2 hours finding still some stone falling and then retreated. Even before arriving at C1 when on glacier, cliffs above them sending down stones and seracs as soon as sun hit ropes after 10:00 am. Spent a day in C1 discussing possibility of climbing elsewhere on face but decided no safe place to go and decided on 20th to abandon mountain. Left C1 that day. Left mountain to a lower camp and spent remaining 10 days trekking around in that area. While teams were above ABC, local villagers stole all of ABC and ropes fixed on glacier ($5000 worth of goods stolen).

  In BC, team decided never to come back to Nepal if HMG doesn't refund their peak fee. Permit should not be given for west side of Shringi, but Barton says he will probably come back to Ganesh. "I like Nepal" - "Incredibly frustrating" adventure.

  * Lama had no objection to their climbing its east side because he thought that was a different mountain.

  13 Dec 2000 - Tourism Ministry official said ministry had received letter from expedition asking for refund of peak fee and letter is in process of being considered, but expedition did go to different route and do some climbing on their permit, so unlikely to get refund.


expid: CHOY00301
peakid: CHOY
year: 2000
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Tap Richards
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Cho Oyu Fall 2000
ascent1: 369
bcdate: 2000-08-03
smtdate: 2000-09-24
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2000-09-29
campsites: BC(03/08),ABC(04/09,5365m),C1(13/09,6300m),C2(22/09,6860m),C3(23/09,7530m),Smt(24/09)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  Left C3 3:00 am 24 Sept and reached summit peak at about 9:00 am. Coughlin turned back at 8150m when Richards was descending and Coughlin trying to go up, but gave up because tired and urging by Richards. Others on top from 10:00 (Richards and Kami) to 11:00 am (Matthews & Phu Nuru). Returned to C3 1:30-2:00 pm.


expid: CHOY00302
peakid: CHOY
year: 2000
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Stephen Hoke
sponsor: Stephen Hoke Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 2000-09-07
smtdate: 2000-09-19
termdate: 2000-09-24
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to heavy snow and Hoke tired
campsites: BC(07/09,4900m),ABC(09/09,5480m),C1(11/09,6100m),C2(14/09,7000m),C3(18/09,7775m),xxx(19/09,8000m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  19 Sept to C1 and 20th to ABC and BC 23rd on Cho Oyu. 

  Before going to Cho Oyu, had intended to go to Everest North Col route but reached only ABC on Everest on about 3 Sept and found snow too deep for yaks and large crevasses ahead, so decided to abandon Everest and go to Cho Oyu instead. Left Everest BC on C1 Sept. 

  Wants to return to Everest in spring season.


expid: CHOY00304
peakid: CHOY
year: 2000
route1: NW side
nation: S Korea
leaders: Cho Chang-Bae
sponsor: 2000 Korea HMC Alpine Club Cho Oyu-Shishapangma Expedition
ascent1: 365
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2000-08-29
smtdate: 2000-09-16
smttime: 1442
termdate: 2000-09-24
campsites: BC(29/08,4900m),ABC(01/09,5479m),C1(06/09,6200m),C2(12/09,6800m),C3(14/09,7200m),Smt(16/09)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  C1 pitched on Sept 05 and two members spent night. C2 established on 11th. 3 members and two Sherpas spent night on 12th. C3 on Sept 14, five members and two Sherpas spent night. On 15th three members got headache and swollen faces and they had to go down to BC.

  Summit on 16, left C3 at 03:45 hours reached summit at 14:42 hours. Summit day windy and snow about three feet.

  Four members left for KTM and arrived in Kathmandu on Sept 27.

  Choi Byoung-Woo, Koo Hoa-Jib and Lee Jong-Yong and two Sherpas to Xixabangma. 

  The team leader claims the ascent as first of the season.

  The expedition will leave Nepal on Oct 16 or 20.


expid: CHOY00305
peakid: CHOY
year: 2000
route1: NW side
nation: Australia
leaders: Matt Carlin, Mark Savage
bcdate: 2000-08-28
smtdate: 2000-09-20
termdate: 2000-09-27
termnote: Abandoned at 8170m due to clouds obscuring summit
campsites: BC(28/08),ABC(31/08,5700m),C1(07/09,6400m),C2(13/09,7100m),xxx(20/09,8170m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  6:00 pm 19 Sept left C3 for top (with Mario Pelliciari of Molins team) to C3 site to brew drink and from here went to top with 2 Italians from C3 (Franco Martinelli and Guilliaume Pargaud). Left C3 at midnight with trail on normal route (Koreans had gone directly up) and at summit plateau at 10:00 am in knee deep snow. Summit area in clouds but Italians had GPS and got within 15m of top but probably did not get to true summit. Left "top" at 2 pm and back at C3 5:10 pm, left at dark and returned to C2 8:30-9:00 pm. 27 hours from C2 to return there. Enjoyed climb. Very cold summit (-20 to -25 degrees in early morning). Returned to ABC 21 Sept. Leave KTM 1 Oct.


  Tom Richardson, leader of OTT Cho Oyu expedition, said on 2 Oct the footprints [of Mario Pelliciari, two Italians Franco Martinelli and Guilliaume Pargaud and two Australians Matt Carlin and Mark Savage] suggested they went to left on summit plateau, not to top [on 20 Sept]. Summit area in clouds but Italians had GPS and got within 15m of top but probably did not get to true summit. Pargaud attempted again on 24 Sept.


expid: CHOY00306
peakid: CHOY
year: 2000
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Richard Piotrowski
bcdate: 2000-08-28
smtdate: 2000-09-22
termdate: 2000-09-28
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to Sherpa's failure to take up gear to make C3
campsites: BC(28/08,4800m),ABC(31/08,5700m),C1(08/09,6400m),C2(14/09,7150m),xxx(22/09,7500m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  High point at C3 site of Anna Czerwinska and other team.

  22nd Sept Piotrowski went up to C3 but since his Sherpa (Sonam) hadn't brought there gear for making C3 through "miscommunication." He went there only to see how he tolerated the attitude (no problem). So went down to ABC to discuss with Sonam the possibility of making attempt for top, but they couldn't find date for leaving mountain that would give him transport to share with others, so came back as originally scheduled. Climb was easy below C3 but perhaps not so easy above it because of altitude. Was "livid" when he discovered "miscommunication" with Sonam prevented summit bid. Wanted badly to go to top.

  Australian Matt Savage, also on same permit, on 1 Oct said Piotrowski went to C3 for a few hours and then down. "Not motivated" to go higher, "intimidated" by the mountain.


expid: CHOY00307
peakid: CHOY
year: 2000
route1: NW side
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Dong-Ho
sponsor: 2000 Nam Won Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 366
bcdate: 2000-08-30
smtdate: 2000-09-16
termdate: 2000-09-26
campsites: BC(30/08,5200m),ABC(02/09,6000m),C1(05/09,6500m),C2(07/09,7000m),C3(15/09,7450m),Smt(16/09)
agency: Beyond Base Camp
routememo:
  19 Sept summit attempt from C3 by Son Young-Jo and Go Woo-Seok to 7800m and turned back by very cold winds.

  Sherpa:
    Mingma Sherpa, 21 years, Nurbu Chaur, Sankhuwasabha


expid: CHOY00309
peakid: CHOY
year: 2000
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Charlie Fowler
sponsor: Telluride Mountain Club Tibet 2000 Expedition 2000
ascent1: 373
bcdate: 2000-09-02
smtdate: 2000-09-24
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2000-09-30
othersmts: Climbed Xixabangma S Face (Fowler to top with Christine Boskoff at 10 Oct at 10:00 am NST)
campsites: BC(02/09),ABC(07/09,5800m),C1(09/09,6450m),C2(14/09,7000m),C3(23/09,7400m),Smt(24/09)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  24 Sept Bakos and Fowler left C3 4:30 am and on top (saw Everest from top) 11:30 and 11:40 am (Fowler first) and slept in C3. Bakos skied from true summit to 6600m with overnight in C3.


expid: CHOY00310
peakid: CHOY
year: 2000
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Christine Boskoff
sponsor: Mountain Madness Cho Oyu Expedition 2000
bcdate: 2000-09-06
smtdate: 2000-09-28
termdate: 2000-10-03
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to wind and fatigue
campsites: BC(06/09),ABC(09/09,5700m),C1(13/09,6300m),C2(18/09,7100m),C3(25/09,7400m),xxx(28/09,7900m)
routememo: Route little more difficult than expected, so very glad fixed ropes were there.
agency: Mountain Madness
accidents:
  Hsieh suffered hemorrhage in brain cortex, affected vision and legs coordination (used oxygen to descend and is slowly getting better)


expid: CHOY00311
peakid: CHOY
year: 2000
route1: SE Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kang Duk-Moon
approach: Via Ngozumba Glacier
bcdate: 2000-08-31
smtdate: 2000-10-11
termdate: 2000-10-14
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to all equipment lost, avalanching and wind
agency: Windhorse Trekking
campsites:
  BC(31/08,5300m),Dep(01/09,5700m),C1(06/09,6100m),C2(10/09,6500m),C3(18/09,7300m),C4(11/10,7800m),xxx(11/10,7800m)

routememo:
  BC  at Lungsampa Glacier
  C2  on SE Face
  C4  on SE face not slept in
  xxx at C4 site on SE Face.

  2 Korean teams climbed together (Kang Duk-Moon & Min Byung-Nam)

  11 Oct arrived C4 11:00 pm in full moonlight, too much snowing and very strong windy so immediately down to C3 (new snow avalanching to C4 site). Returned C3 midnight and now big ice avalanching: 4 people hit on heads and 3 running and left and almost all equipment in C3 swept away, so slept in C2, arriving 2 am.

  Between C2 and C3 accident: Pasang Nima, Pemba Gyalzen and Pasang Nuru Sherpa* carrying equipment from old C1 (now depot) to new C1 hit by avalanche 20 Sept and swept 400-500m into crevasses and died (buried by avalanche). (1 or 3-4 Sept made C1 at 5700m at top of couloir and moved to 6100m). This accident delayed progress to C4.

  * These three Sherpas were hired by expedition in the mountains but all came from Phortse says trekking agent.


expid: CHOY00331
peakid: CHOY
year: 2000
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Martin Goeggelmann
sponsor: Amical Alpin Cho Oyu Expedition 2000
ascent1: 370
countries: Austria, Italy, Switzerland
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2000-09-01
smtdate: 2000-09-24
smttime: 1015
termdate: 2000-09-29
campsites: BC(01/09),ABC(04/09,5650m),C1(09/09,6400m),C2(22/09,6950m),C3(23/09,7450m),Smt(24/09)
accidents: Trumpfheller & Huber frostbitten fingers; Riess altitude sickness (lungs) and left early
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  8 members and 2 Sherpas 24 Sept left C3 3:30 am NST, summited 10:15 am to 1:17 pm. Huber got frostbitten fingers and toes. Winkler in this party turned back at 7600m because cold. Trumpfheller reached summit plateau and turned back with possible clot in brain and lost gloves. Summiters reached C3 1:00 pm to 5:00 pm. 25th to C1, some very slowly but 2 members C3 to ABC that day, quickly. When this expedition's summit party reached yellow band at 7600m they had to wait one hour for their turn to ascend fixed ropes because there was so many other climbers ahead of them.


expid: CHOY00313
peakid: CHOY
year: 2000
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Henry Todd
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Cho Oyu Expedition
countries: Canada, USA, Venezuela
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2000-09-05
smtdate: 2000-09-29
termdate: 2000-10-04
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to wind
campsites: BC(05/09),ABC(07/09,5400m),C1(11/09,6400m),C2(19/09,7000m),C3(14/09,7300m),xxx(29/09,8000m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  29 Sept 1st summit attempt. Todd down with Diez who decided had to go down suddenly after 3 nights in C3. Bid by Rogers, Morris, Burgess (Legault and Diez had left before) and Pemba Dorje. Summit party reached 8000m. Burgess down because of [frostbite on hands] and terrible winds on Todd's advice. 

  Diez suddenly decided he had to get off the mountain, but both he and Legault left ABC with the rest of the expedition.


expid: CHOY00314
peakid: CHOY
year: 2000
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Francisco Jose Perez
sponsor: Montagnes del Mondo Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 378
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2000-09-15
smtdate: 2000-10-03
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2000-10-08
campsites: BC(15/09,5700m),C1(21/09,6450m),C2(22/09,7100m),Smt(03/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Oct 3 Buendia and Sherpa left C2 at 03:00 hours, summit at about 11:00 hours, spent about 15 minutes, very clear day, very cold. Norbu showed him the Everest and other peaks. 

  While returning they met leader and Montesinos at about 8050m. All came down to C2. Norbu alone to BC. Leader had lost toes of both feet in Annapurna in 1987, felt the toeless feet. Very cold. Montesinos exhausted due to cold and gave up the climb.

  Sept 21 - BC->C1 - Buendia, Cardo, Checa, De las Meras
            BC->C1 - Moya, Vizcaino
  Sept 22 - BC->C1 - Garcia Miot, Ortega, Duran, Cuesta
  Sept 22 - C1->C2 - Buendia, Cardo, Checa, De las Meras

  Sept 30 - BC->C1 - Buendia, Cardo, Checa, Cuesta, Garcia Miot, Duran, Ortega,
                     De las Meras
            BC->C1 - Matas, Montesinos, Moya, Ollanquindia, Vizcaino 
          - BC->C2 - Leader and Sherpa  
  Oct 2   - C1->C2 - Buendia, Cardo, Checa, Cuesta
            C1->C2 - Ollanquindia, Vizcaino
  Oct 3   - C2->Smt - Buendia
  Oct 4   - All returned to BC.

  Ollanquindia left BC on 4 Oct due to business problem at home.

  Team returned on Oct 9, leaving Nepal on 14.
   
  Norbu put up about 5-meter long prayer flags on the summit.


expid: CHOY00315
peakid: CHOY
year: 2000
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Toby Molins
sponsor: Marconi Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 368,375
countries: Australia
bcdate: 2000-09-02
smtdate: 2000-09-23
termdate: 2000-09-30
campsites: BC(02/09),ABC(05/09,5700m),C1(08/09,6400m),C2(12/09,7000m),C3(17/09,7400m),Smt(23-24/09)
accidents: Faulds-Smith bad altitude sickness but stayed until all teams finished
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  20th "summiters" went to left on summit plateau [but very near the top]. 
  23rd Sept party pretty much straight across (following Korean tracks) and Molins' footage of video pictures shown to others who summited on 24th. 23rd people could not see Everest clearly because of mist but those on 24th did see Everest and they confirmed 23rd team had reached top. 

  Maclaurin went for top on 24th but turned down and again on 25th (this time to 7900m), but both times defeated by cold weather; also he was very tired.

  Tom Richardson, leader of OTT Cho Oyu expedition, said on 2 Oct the footprints [of Mario Pelliciari, two Italians Franco Martinelli and Guilliaume Pargaud and two Australians Matt Carlin and Mark Savage] suggested they went to left on summit plateau, not to top [on 20 Sept]. Summit area in clouds but Italians had GPS and got within 15m of top but probably did not get to true summit. Pargaud attempted again on 24 Sept.


expid: CHOY00316
peakid: CHOY
year: 2000
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Giorgio Mallucci
sponsor: Roma 2000 to Cho Oyu
ascent1: 371
countries: France
approach: Lhasa->Shigatse->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2000-08-28
smtdate: 2000-09-20
smttime: 1100
campsites: BC(28/08,4900m),ABC(01/09,5730m),C1(08/09,6430m),C2(16/09,7120m),C3(19/09,7520m),Smt(20,24/09)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Sept 20 - Franco Martinelli and Pargaud left C3 at 02:30, [near] summit at 13:30 hours, returned to C2. Lots of snow, foggy.

  Sept 24 - Agostino Martinelli left C3 at about 05:30 hours, summit at 11:00 hours. With him were Palermi and Simohetti. They had to return from 7530m due to cold.

  Sept 30 - Bernieri went up to 7600m. Mariani up to 7200m (women member to reach the highest point).

  Isman and Pecci left ABC on Sept 11. Pecci suffered from bronchitis and left Nepal on 15. Paladino and Rosati left ABC on Sept 27 due to personal reasons.

  Leader said first ascent to 8000m by any expedition from Rome. Leader also said that the Koreans were the dirtiest expedition; they left lots of garbage and trash in their camps.

  On Sept 24 summit by 3 Americans and 2 Sherpas: (Tap Richard's people). 
  Leader said out of 7 Germans, 4 got frostbite.

  Tom Richardson, leader of OTT Cho Oyu expedition, said on 2 Oct the footprints [of Mario Pelliciari, two Italians Franco Martinelli and Guilliaume Pargaud and two Australians Matt Carlin and Mark Savage] suggested they went to left on summit plateau, not to top [on 20 Sept]. Summit area in clouds but Italians had GPS and got within 15m of top but probably did not get to true summit. Pargaud attempted again on 24 Sept.


expid: CHOY00317
peakid: CHOY
year: 2000
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Joan Porta
sponsor: Reus 2000 Cho Oyu Expedition Himalaya
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2000-09-02
smtdate: 2000-09-23
termdate: 2000-09-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to wind and cold (-25 degrees C)
campsites: BC(02/09,4800m),ABC(05/09,5800m),C1(10/09,6400m),C2(14/09,7150m),C3(23/09,7650m),xxx(23/09,7800m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  On Sept 23 Duran and Porta left C3 at 04:00 hours. After an hour (about) below the yellow (stone) felt very cold and hands became numb. Then both returned to C3. About 10:00 hours down to C2, spent night there. Next day to BC.

  Capdevila went up to C1, but he got acclimatization problems and stayed back in BC all the time.


expid: CHOY00318
peakid: CHOY
year: 2000
route1: NW side
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Robin Baum
sponsor: Cho Czech Expedition
ascent1: 377,383
countries: Canada, USA
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2000-09-12
smtdate: 2000-10-02
smttime: 1630
termdate: 2000-10-10
campsites: BC(12/09,4000m),ABC(14/09,5700m),C1(17/09,6400m),C2(21/09,7100m),C3(27/09,7500m),Smt(02,05/10)
achievment: Skied down
agency: Everest Adventure
routememo:
  BC at Chinese BC
  C1 (all spent night)
  C2 Patek and Smrz spent night
  C3 Weingartl spent night.

  Oct 02 - Patek and Weingartl left C3 around 05:30. Patek alone summit at about 16:30 hours NST, back to C3. Weingartl reached up to shoulder (8000m about) and had to quit due to cold and a little frostbite.

  Oct 05 - Kalousek and Smrz left C3 around 07:00 hours, summit at about 17:00 hours, back to C3. Smrz skied down to C2, took about 1-1/2 hours. At yellow band and icefall used fixed rope to descend - took off skis. They said he is the first Czech to ski down on the 8000m mountain.

  Weingartl left BC on Oct 8 due to the work back home. 

  Pokorny left BC on Sept 29; he went up to C3.

  The expedition team returned to KTM on the night of Oct 12; leaving Nepal on Oct 16.

  Source of above information Baum with Kalousak and others.


expid: CHOY00319
peakid: CHOY
year: 2000
route1: NW side
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Vladimir Terzyul
sponsor: Ukrainian Xixabangma Expedition 2000
ascent1: 385
bcdate: 2000-10-04
smtdate: 2000-10-09
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2000-10-14
othersmts: Climbed Xixabangma before Cho Oyu
campsites: BC(04/10),ABC(05/10,5800m),C1(07/10,6400m),C2(08/10,7000m),Smt(09/10)
accidents: Nothing but very hoarse throat
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  Used hosptiality of Pawlowski's expedition kitchen. Started from C2 to top on 9 Oct about 2:00 am NST. Stopped in Czech's empty tent and warmed his hands and probably brewed tea. Then on to top 12:00 now (perhaps with an American) in good weather (said to Pawlowski he saw Everest and this his 9th 8000er including Xixa in Sept about 28th). Skied from top to C2 but had to take steps sideways at rocky sections. Slept in C2 in own tent night of 9th and 10th 4:00 pm at ABC and help carry Pawlowski's sick member to BC.


expid: CHOY00320
peakid: CHOY
year: 2000
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Stevie Haston
countries: France
bcdate: 2000-08-28
smtdate: 2000-09-17
termdate: 2000-09-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7150m due to bad winds
campsites: BC(28/08,4800m),ABC(31/08,5700m),C1(05/09,6400m),C2(17/09,7150m),xxx(17,24/09,7150m)
accidents: Nothing except Haston's infected hip
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  "Nicest thing about expedition" was no one else there when they arrived and were first to ABC with Australians making route to ABC. This autumn very cold and very windy (gusting over 100 mph). 19 Sept down to ABC to rest. 24th Sept to C2 intending to go to top from C2 on 25th, but winds got very bad (24th they were not), so down to ABC on 26th. Now yaks ordered for 29th and wind remained a "madstorm," so left mountain. They lost the good day, the 24th for the top by being delayed in ABC by Stevie's infected hip.

  This team were on "International IMG Cho Oyu Expedition" permit and reached BC and ABC with others and then moved independently.

  Returned to KTM 1 October and stayed in Hotel Gaurishankar.


expid: CHOY00321
peakid: CHOY
year: 2000
route1: NW side
nation: Poland
leaders: Anna Czerwinska
bcdate: 2000-08-28
smtdate: 2000-09-21
termdate: 2000-09-29
termnote: Abandoned at 8070m due to deep snow
othersmts: Climbed Xixabangma (first summit after false summit via Chinese route)
campsites: BC(28/08),ABC(31/08,5600m),C1(04/09,6400m),C2(13/09,7000m),C3(20/09,7500m),xxx(21/09,8070m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  High point at summit plateau.

  20 Sept midnight left C3 for top alone, her Sherpa Pasang Tsering left C3 after her and after 1/2 hour climbing up, he returned to C3 because very cold. She caught up with Koreans making trail and together up to plateau, where Koreans GPS read 8070m and they decided that was good enough and went down about 8:00 am in clouds. Anna tried to go on but snow too deep (waist deep) for her to continue alone and after 1/2 hour turned back with no real altitude gain. Down about 8:30 am 21 Sept and returned to C2. Down to ABC to arrange yaks to come later than originally ordered. 23 Sept up to C1, 24th to C2. Waited for wind to stop. 26th down again because of winds and climb finished. Mountain very easy. Want to return to Cho Oyu next autumn and arrive in mid-Sept when others had made routes (in spring '01 wants Lhotse) to reach a total of ten 8000ers.


expid: CHOY00322
peakid: CHOY
year: 2000
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Cho Oyu Expedition 2000
ascent1: 372
countries: China, France, New Zealand, Norway, USA
bcdate: 2000-09-01
smtdate: 2000-09-24
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2000-10-01
campsites: BC(01/09,4800m),ABC(07/09,5200m),C1(21/09,6400m),C2(22/09,7100m),C3(23/09,7450m),Smt(24/09)
achievment: 1st yak herder atop any 8000er
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  Delapierre and Siffredi snowboarded down from top to C1. 24th first expedition to leave C3 and first to top. Left C3 3:30 am and on top 11:30 am together (15-20 mins apart only). Returned to C3 (Brice only), to C2 (Eriksen & Miller), all others to C1.

  Left early: Davis and Reiff on 21 Sept - not up to climb.

  * Karsang from Tibet, Chinese citizen (about 42 years old), had been taught to climb up by Brice; he is a yak herder and lives just north of Everest and Cho Oyu. 1st yak herder to top of any 8000er.


expid: CHOY00323
peakid: CHOY
year: 2000
route1: NW side
nation: Poland
leaders: Ryszard Pawlowski
sponsor: Patagonia Mountain Agency (PMA) Cho Oyu Expedition 2000
ascent1: 380,382
countries: Canada, Yugoslavia
bcdate: 2000-09-19
smtdate: 2000-10-04
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2000-10-14
campsites: BC(19/09),ABC(21/09,5800m),C1(25/09,6400m),C2(29/09,7000m),C3(03/10,7500m),Smt(04-05/10)
accidents: Only Milosevic's fatal sickness
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Summit success team left C3 6:30 NST: Chomczyk, Pawlowski and Zaluski. Chomczyk at about 8000m at 2:00 pm and turned back by Pawlowski because too late. Chomczyk again to top from C3 behind 2 Americans (probably from Mazur's team - 1 from Czech team). Milosevic died.


  October 11, 2000
  Report on Death of Mr. Pavle Milosevic, born May 1, 1950

  On October 10 at approximately 16:00 a message was received at the advanced base camp (ABC) via radio-telephone, that Pavle (50) at that time was descending from the C1 (6500m), is not feeling well and requires assistance with his further descent. Four members of the Polish Cho Oyu 2000 expedition left the ABC immediately carrying tea, food and some pain-killing medicine.

  Pavle continued his descent initially with Ryszard Kowalewski with whom he spent previously two nights in C1 (6500m), two nights in C2 (7200m) and two nights in C3 (7500m).

  During his further descent from C1 on October 10, Pavle was also helped by three members of the international climbing expedition lead by Daniel Mazur of Seattle, USA. Soon the above group was joined by other members of Mazur's expedition, an Ukranian Slava and Nepalese staff. Altogether there were up to 16 people involved in the rescue effort.

  Pavle received some liquids and stimulating injections. And the time during the rescue action we were in a radio-telephone contact with an American physician, Dr Roblee Allen, who was writing for us at the advanced base camp.

  At approximately 0:30 on October 11 Pavle was delivered to the ABC. The doctor administered further injections, oxygen and placed Pavle for 2 hours in a Gamov bag. After that treatment, Pavle's conditions improved significantly. He communicated with the doctor and us, his vital signs were correct and his body temperature was normal. All of us retired at 3:30 full of optimism. Pavle reminded breathing auxilliary oxygen and was under direct care of the doctor. At approximately 5:30 Pavle stopped breathing and could not be revived. Dr Allen established that the cause of death was cardiac arrest.

  Pavle was buried on October 11 in a stone cairn located on the glacier in front of the advanced base camp.


expid: CHOY00324
peakid: CHOY
year: 2000
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: International Cho Oyu Expedition 2000
ascent1: 379,381
countries: Australia, Canada, China, France, UK
bcdate: 2000-09-11
smtdate: 2000-10-03
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2000-10-16
campsites: BC(11/09),ABC(12/09,5650m),C1(16/09,6400m),C2(23/09,7100m),C3(12/10,7500m),Smt(03,05/10)
accidents: Richardson bad pulmonary edema at C2; Durga Tamang slight frostbitten toes
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  O'Brien brothers went for summit on 7 Oct but on summit plateau turned left instead of right, came to realize they had made a mistake, retraced their steps to go around to the right but never reached highest point. 

  Summiters on 3rd and 5th October reached highest point and saw Everest. 

  On 12 Oct storm struck which in six hours destroyed tents at several camps including C3 where more members [Arnold, Hachett and Yang] were waiting to go to top, but had to abandon that plan and go down.

  Eight men left before climb ended:
    Larson and Khules on 13 Sept - for personal reasons, not above ABC.
    Keller on 24 Sept - expedition not operating to his satisfaction, 
      went little above C1.
    Harlow on 24 Sept - he was not ready for such a climb, went little above ABC.
    Chen on 16 Sept - suffering from old neck injury, went to C2.
    Richardson on 3 Oct - sick (pulmonary edema), went to C2.
    Donovan on 4 Oct - no longer interested, went to C2 [dizzy at C2].
    Boelter on 8 Oct - ready to go home.


expid: CHOY00325
peakid: CHOY
year: 2000
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Edmond Joyeusaz
sponsor: Focus Cho Oyu
countries: USA
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2000-09-19
smtdate: 2000-10-09
termdate: 2000-10-10
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to cold and wind
campsites: BC(19/09,4800m),ABC(20/09,5700m),C1(24/09,6400m),C2(29/09,7100m),xxx(09/10,8000m)
accidents: Di Giorgio's left knee hit by a falling piece of rock
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Chinese BC
  C1 was actual BC
  High point at shoulder (probably edge of summit plateau).

  Sept 24 to C1 - Passino, Besson and Joyeusaz spent night.
  Sept 29 to C2 - Passino, Besson, Joyeusaz and Di Giorgio spent night.

  Oct 9 Joyeusaz and di Giorgio attempted the summit. Due to cold and wind they gave up the climb. Little below the shoulder, Di Giorgio felt more cold in his previously injured knee, walked down to C2. Joyeusaz climbing with his ski boots, about 8000m, his toes start getting cold. He skied down near to small lake/pond moraine about 6100m. They don't have written notes of their expedition. They arrived into KTM on the night of Oct 11. Will leave on 14.

  C2: Sept 21 - Barmasses arrived to BC. Herve got severe AMS; upon Auda's (expedition doctor) advice, both Barmasses left BC on 23. They probably left Nepal on Oct 26.

  Group II: Passino arrived to BC on Sept 20. Spent night at C1 only. Suffered from bronchitis, had two days rest in BC. And left for KTM with Auda.

  Rampini: Independent. Climbed up to C2 only. He refused to meet and talk about his climbing details. Returned to KTM on Oct 12. Suppose to leave on 14th. He stayed in Marshyangdi Hotel.


expid: CHOY00326
peakid: CHOY
year: 2000
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Tom Richardson
sponsor: OTT (Out There Trekking) Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 374
countries: France, Netherlands, Mexico, USA
bcdate: 2000-09-03
smtdate: 2000-09-24
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2000-09-27
campsites: BC(03/09),ABC(05/09,5700m),C1(10/09,6400m),C2(16/09,6900m),C3(23/09,7400m),Smt(24/09)
accidents: 2 cases of mild frostbite on toes
agency: High Country Trekking
routememo:
  24 Sept summit party left C3 at 2:00 am (first of any team to move up): 3 Sherpas, Tom Richardson, 2 Mexicans and Fulton. Richardson stopped Fulton on summit plateau at 8150m when Fulton not coping well in exhaustion, while others to top behind Brice party (probably first), slightly behind Christopher of Molins' UK team. Returned to C3 same day about 4:00 pm. 25th down to C1 (Fulton), C2 (Mexicans who were tired). All in ABC 26th.

  Sherpa summiters: 
    Pemba Gyalzen (Kharikhola) - Cho Oyu on top 18/5/99 and 
        Everest top 16/5/00 with Gavin Bate's expedition
    Nima Sherpa (Kharikhola) - Cho Oyu 1/10/96 and 20/5/98
    Phendu Sherpa (Kharikhola) - Cho Oyu 20/5/98


expid: CHOY00327
peakid: CHOY
year: 2000
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Olivier Besson
ascent1: 384
countries: Italy
bcdate: 2000-09-18
smtdate: 2000-10-06
smttime: 1312
termdate: 2000-10-11
campsites: BC(18/09),ABC(20/09,5700m),C1A(24/09,6100m),C1B(25/09,6400m),Smt(06/10)
accidents: Passino pneumonia
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  25 Sept night Passino became sick with pneumonia so both were down 26th down to ABC and Passino left 27th and went to Italy. Had gone up to C1B to acclimatize expecting to go up via a route further to west climbed by Swiss-Polish team in '90, but with Passino having to leave climb, Besson returned to normal route alone because Italians (led by Joyeusaz who he shared permit with) got sick. 

  Besson went alone to C1 (6400m) on 1st Oct, 2nd to C2 to alone, and 3rd to C3 but down to ABC same day. 4th in ABC. 5th started for summit at 4:00 pm, reach C1 6:30 pm, slept till 11:00 pm and at 12:00 up again. Reached C2 3:30 am, rested till 5:30 am, 5:30 am up to top which 1:12 pm where had crossed plateau to highest point when saw Everest and Lhotse. Slept in C2 on 5:30 pm very tired. 7th to ABC and left ABC 8th for BC and left BC 11 Oct. "Very uninteresting summit: all flat."


expid: CHOY00330
peakid: CHOY
year: 2000
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Jose Luis Gonzalez
sponsor: Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 376
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2000-09-05
smtdate: 2000-10-01
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2000-10-04
campsites: BC(05/09,4900m),ABC(06/09,5700m),C1(11/09,6100m),C2(15/09,7100m),C3(30/09,7500m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Carrasbal and Fuentes left C3 at 04:00 hours. Fuentes had to come down from 7700m due to frostbite of his toes. Carrasbal reached summit around 12:00 hours and down to C2.

  Carrasbal turned first to left direction on the plateau then to right which took him about 2 hours. The day of summit was cold and windy, clear enough to see Everest.

  Team returned to kathmndu on Oct 6 and leaving on Oct 9.


expid: CHOL00301
peakid: CHOL
year: 2000
route1: W rib up; SW Ridge down
nation: USA
leaders: Bartholomew Paull
sponsor: 2000 American Chok Expedition to Cholatse
ascent1: 14th,15th
approach: Imja Khola->Pangboche->Lobuje East peak->around N side
bcdate: 2000-10-14
smtdate: 2000-10-19
termdate: 2000-10-26
campsites: BC(14/10,4500m),Biv(17,21/10,5800m),C2(18/10,6000m),C3(19/10,5800m),Smt(19,24/10)
agency: Alpine Treks
othersmts:
  Climbed Lobuche East (all 4 summited 2 Oct and 10 Oct); Paul and Wilkinson to Kusum Kanguru afterwards

routememo:
  BC  at foot of valley at foot of West Rib
  Biv half way up rib
  C2  just above rib on summit plateau
  C3  on SW Ridge.

  2 teams because "I like to climb with only 1 other person," Paull said, but all friends. Each brought some of own food. Original plan was to have other team follow one day later but were 4 days behind. 1st party down from biv at 5800m to BC via SW Ridge. Lots of unconsolidated snow on north-facing areas and 6 meter serac at top of rib which had sugar snow and needed aids. 1st team chose aids (pickets) and 2nd team through sugar snow. SW Ridge not so difficult in general with small problems occasionally. 2nd team had bivs at 5000m on 21st at top of icefall; 2nd biv on 22nd 5800m and 3rd at 6000m at 1st team's 2 sites. To top on 24th and down to last biv. BC on 25th via SW Ridge. Same route at '92 autumn New Zealand-Australia and 93 autumn USA-Sweden-Canada. 

  1st team then to Kusum Kanguru's SW Face/Buttress to South Ridge. Reached 200m below summit on much more difficult route technically than Cholatse.


expid: DORJ00301
peakid: DORJ
year: 2000
route1: W Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Michel Pelle
sponsor: Terres d'Aventure Dorje Lhakpa 2000
ascent1: 14th
bcdate: 2000-10-14
smtdate: 2000-10-24
termdate: 2000-10-29
campsites: BC(15/10,4800m),C1(17/10,5800m),C2(20/10,6100m),Smt(24/10)
accidents: Dugue serious altitude sickness
agency: Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
routememo:
  BC at normal site (same as 1998 & 1999)
  C1 at col at bottom of West Ridge
  C2 on West Ridge.

  24 Oct started for top after Sherpas had fixed rope from C2 to 6600m; at 3:00 am left C2: Pelle and 4 members and 3 Sherpas. 2 members reached 6600m, Isambert and Lieters to 6600m; Pelle and Dugue to 6200m where she got badly sick from altitude (cerebral edema), so Pelle had to take her to C1. Very cold and windy.

  Slovenian asked for rescue but all French in C2 and at least 5 hours away from him with technical problems to reach him and French too tired to try. He died about 1-1/2 hours after his appeal.


expid: DORJ00302
peakid: DORJ
year: 2000
route1: NW Face (W Wall)-W Ridge
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Andrej Zaman
sponsor: Dorje Lhakpa Expedition
bcdate: 2000-10-16
smtdate: 2000-10-25
termdate: 2000-10-26
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to Zaman's death
campsites: BC(16,21/10,4800m),xxx(25/10,6500m)
accidents: Fatal fall by Zaman
agency: Holiday Adventures
routememo:
  BC at Langshisa Glacier
  C1 below West Wall (NW face).

  Zaman's plan was to climb West Ridge for acclimatization and then descend to BC and climb West Face to West Ridge (actually Face/Wall is a NW Face) - West Face to 6500m. He climbed up West Ridge 18 or 19 Oct to 6200m (French C2) but returned same day to BC. "This was reason for his death," Subic thinks, "or one of most important reasons" because not properly acclimatized. 24 Oct about 6:30 am climbed almost to top of West Face at 6400m or more and intended to sleep there but perhaps unable to find space enough to use sleeping bag and biv bag. 25 Oct 8:00 am he called again and was 20m below ridge 6500m therefore end of wall. He called again about 9:00 said he was exhausted, very cold and getting pulmonary edema (sounded like he had developed cerebral edema) asked for help from French, who were in C2 (they said they could not help because they were exhausted and very cold) and his collegues encouraged him to go to ridge. He was seen to be about 2m below cornice on ridge and unable to climb cornice, then fell (seen falling) about 1000m to bottom of wall where he had started off climbing this wall on glacier. Today 1 student and sirdar buried body on glacier. He had lost his backpack that morning.

  2 Nov 2000 - French Dorje Lhakpa expedition leader Michel Pelle agreed Slovenian had asked them to rescue him, but all French were in C2 and would have taken them at least 5 hours to reach him with technical difficulties in their way and French were too tired to try. Slovenian died about 1-1/2 hours after his appeal for assistance.


expid: DORJ00303
peakid: DORJ
year: 2000
route1: W Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Heidi Kloos
sponsor: Aspen Dorje Lhakpa Expedition
approach: Langtang Khola->Yalu Khola
bcdate: 2000-11-08
smtdate: 2000-11-11
termdate: 2000-11-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6350m due to unstable snow conditions
campsites: BC(08/11,4500m),C1(09/11,5370m),C2(10/11,5930m),xxx(11,13/11,6350m)
accidents: Martin onset of cerebral edema
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
routememo:
  BC further down Yaru valley from French (not on glacier moraine)
  C1 at start of West Ridge at Tilman's Col
  C3 on West Ridge
  High point on West Ridge.

  Summit attempt: 11 Nov by Jackson, Falender, Fox and Gibans from C2 to 6350m and unstable snow ahead on ridge looked unsafe and avalanche prone. All down to C1 (2M) and BC (2M). 

  13 Nov Kloos to C2 with Sarki, Tshering, McCall and Alder. On 14 Nov all 5 up from C2 and turned back cold at 6100m and Kloos and Sherpas at about 6350m and did not like snow conditions also. All returned to C1 that day. All down to BC on 15th.


expid: EVER00301
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Davo Karnicar
sponsor: Slovenian Everest Expedition 2000
ascent1: 374,375
bcdate: 2000-09-19
smtdate: 2000-10-07
smttime: 0645
termdate: 2000-10-11
campsites: BC(14/09),C1(19/09,6020m),C2(21/09,6500m),C3(27/09,7300m),C4(06/10,7900m),Smt(07,09/10)
accidents: Lacen frostbitten fingers and toes but membrane will heal (left early)
achievment: 1st complete ski descent
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col (did not spend night).

  The 4 summiters left C4 for top 10:30 pm 6th Oct. In his continous ski descent from summit to base camp, Davo used oxygen down to South Summit because it was cold and wanted clear head; but took off 6 kg Russian oxygen system at South Summit because of weight and not possible to see down, entirely unless lowering head completely. Negotiating Hillary Step besides fixed rope but bigger problem was steep ridge below step which had to descend with skis sideways. From South Summit first 30-40m also very steep and here made short turns. At South Col "very nice place" with snow covering all rubbish. From Col crossed Spur about 20m below its top and then down Lhotse Face with big turns. Kept very close to SW Face of Everest, where no avalanche problem but serious problem to see where to go because face not straight wall. Had help by walkie-talkie with members in C2, constantly thinking about avalanche danger, "this was real pressure - man can do nothing" if serac suddenly fell at him. Had no accidents. "You must have something inside" with strong motivation to get up to start. Left summit at 8:00 am and reached South Summit 8:20 am reached C4 at 8:40 am, C2 11:00 am and stopped for drink and waited for movie cameras to be ready from BC. Left C2 11:30, C1 11:50 am, BC on 12:40 pm. Total 4 hours 40 minutes from top to BC. No sleep between C4 up and return to BC but not immediately sleepy. Expected to take 5-7 hours. "Emotion did not come immediately." Left slowly over days. Wants to do all other 7 summits. Maybe use some special type "skis" but probably not at all on Karstenz and Kilimanjaro, only short distance of snow (has done Elbrus 1987).

  2nd team of Tadej Golob, Lacen and Flis left C4 10:30 pm 8 Oct, on top 7:07 am and returned to C4 about 12:00 noon and down to lower camps.

  Summit Sherpas: 
    Chuldim Dorje, aka Ang Dorje, 30, Pangboche, Ever X6 before 
    Pasang Tenzing, 23, Phortse, 1st 8000er


  Ministry of Tourism: Shyam Kuikel - 17 Oct 2000

  HMG does not recognize ski descents: have no rules for skiing, but no penalty.


expid: EVER00302
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Yoon Hong-Keun
sponsor: 2000 Chungbuk Korean Everest-Lhotse Expedition
ascent1: 373
bcdate: 2000-09-03
smtdate: 2000-10-04
smttime: 1345
termdate: 2000-10-08
othersmts: Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-003-04)
campsites: BC(03/09),C1(17/09,6100m),C2(20/09,6400m),C3(25/09,7300m),C4(03/10,7900m),Smt(04-05/10)
accidents: Nawang Wangchu dizzy and back pain, vomitting so sent home
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in West Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  8 Oct midnight up from C4 Kim Wong-Sik were Cho Cheol-Hee, Hong Sun-Dok, Ang Phurba and Mingma Sherpa. At South Summit Sherpas turned back because tired, no fixed rope above and having trouble with oxygen systems. 3 Koreans on up to top at 1:45 pm by Cho and Hong, 2:30 by Kim who was tired. 1st two returned C4 6:00 and Kim 9:00 and all slept C4.

  Handless member Kim Hong-Bin reached C3 only, then very tired and went no higher.


expid: EVER00303
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Young-Moon
sponsor: Korea Ulsan Alpine Federation 2000 Everest-Lhotse
ascent1: 372
bcdate: 2000-08-28
smtdate: 2000-10-04
smttime: 1343
termdate: 2000-10-10
othersmts: Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-003-002)
campsites: BC(28/08),C1(17/09,6100m),C2(20/09,6400m),C3(25/09,7300m),C4(03/10,7900m),Smt(04/10)
accidents: Frostbitten toes from 40 minutes at balcony with the oxygen
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C4 for Everest only (no C4 for Lhotse).

  3 Nov 11:30 pm started up: Kim Hwan-Koo, Kim Seong-Cheol, Lee Seong-Han, Kim Yong-Gun and Sherpas Palden Namgye and Lhakpa Rita. 2 Sherpas only to bottom of Hillary Step because oxygen finished. Yong-Gun and Seong-Han down at Balcony because oxygen problem and very tired. Only Hwan-Koo and Seong-Cheol on top (at 1:43 pm) and down to C4 8:00 pm; were on top with other Korean team's summiters. 

  This expedition did not climb with other Korean Everest-Lhotse expedition except to Everest summit.


expid: EVER00304
peakid: EVER
year: 2000
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Chang Byoung-Ho
sponsor: New Millenium, New Daegu City Qomolangma Expedition to Everest
bcdate: 2000-09-03
smtdate: 2000-10-05
termdate: 2000-10-11
termnote: Abandoned at 8500m due to strong wind
agency: Explore Himalaya
campsites:
  BC(03/09),ABC(07/09,6300m),C1(09/09,7000m),C2(13/09,7300m),C3(23/09,8000m),C4(04/10,8300m),xxx(05/10,8500m)

routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  High point on North Ridge.

  5th Oct first summit bid and stop on North Ridge below 2nd Step at about 8500m; stopped because very cold and no fixed rope at this very difficult part where crevasses and slipping on thin snow cover. Slept in C4 and down on 6 Oct (Bae, Shin, Dawa Tili).

  8 Oct 2nd attempt stopped below First Step on face, no footsteps and no Sherpas with them and very cold and dark at 2:00 pm NST so couldn't find route and slept in ABC that night (Shin and Ha). Sherpas very tired. Strong wind destroyed tent at C3 twice. 

  Chang wants to come to Everest again next spring (agent not decided, but stays at Villa Everest).


expid: GAN100301
peakid: GAN1
year: 2000
route1: SE Ridge-SW Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Carlos Gonzalez de Agustin
sponsor: Ganesh Himal 2000
approach: Trisuli River->Chilime Khola->Khata Kharka
bcdate: 2000-10-08
smtdate: 2000-10-25
termdate: 2000-10-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to wind and avalanches
campsites: BC(08/10,4460m),C1(12/10,5020m),C2(16/10,5500m),C3(22/10,6200m),C4(23/10,6600m),xxx(25/10,7100m)
accidents: Primo 2 frostbitten toes but not serious
agency: Parbat Kailash Adventures Treks
routememo:
  BC at Sungang Glacier north-northeast of Ganesh V & east of Ganesh II
  C1 on East Face
  C2 on East Face
  C3 on SE Ridge
  C4 on SW Face
  High point on SW Face.

  C2 to C3 up couloir. 25 Oct Carles Gonzalez and Primo up from C4 to 7100m on SW Face and stopped by bad winds, danger from avalanches and from new snowfall 1 meter deep; slept in C4 same day.


expid: HIML00301
peakid: HIML
year: 2000
route1: NW side (Japan route was not a ridge)
nation: Spain
leaders: Carlos Soria
sponsor: Norma-Penalara to Himlung
approach: Nam Khola to Phugaon, east by river top
bcdate: 2000-09-11
smtdate: 2000-09-24
termdate: 2000-09-26
termnote: Abandoned at 6350m due to difficult and dangerous ice face
campsites: BC(11/09,4850m),C1(17/09,5450m),C2(23/09,6400m),xxx(24/09,6350m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC north of 5435m on trekking map
  C1 east-northeast of point 5435m
  C2 just below summit of 6450m peak
  High point at bottom of West Face.

  Himlung very difficult to see because hidden from West Dome 6392m on map but actually 6450m. Himlung is small pyramid not visible from BC and C1. 24 Sept went towards Himlung top but very difficult ice face at end. Went to this face which is reached by sharp ridge from point 6392m/6450m. Returned to BC 24th. 26th to Phugaon and returned by Larkya Pass and helicopter from Samagaon. Ice face not only difficult, but dangerous avalanche threat.


expid: JANU00301
peakid: JANU
year: 2000
route1: N Face direct
nation: USA
leaders: Jared Ogden
sponsor: American Jannu Expedition
countries: UK
approach: Ghunsa->Ghunsa Khola->Jannu Glacier
bcdate: 2000-09-14
smtdate: 2000-10-04
termdate: 2000-10-07
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to impossible snow conditions
campsites: BC(14/09,4450m),C1(20/09,5400m),xxx(04/10,5850m)
agency: Nomad Expeditions
routememo:
  BC at Jannu Glacier below North Face
  C1 at top of 3000 ft rock buttress
  High point on North Face directly below NW Col.

  Lots of avalanche debris and deep snow (chest deep) and "we couldn't get anywhere." Tried couple of different ways, too much snow. We looked at other possibilities, but too much snow and sun touched face just before sunrise made things warm and everything was too dangerous from avalanches. At 18,000 ft a snow glacier, which one has to cross to get to North Face, was high, deep heavy wet snow which was a job to get a cross. Won't go to this face again. One reason is one would have to fix a lot of rope "and I'm not interested in fixing rope."


expid: JONG00301
peakid: JONG
year: 2000
route1: Central Gully of S Face of S Smt I (7350m)-S Smt II
route2: S Face of S Smt II (to 6400m)
route3: Left of GUlly of S Face of S Smt I (to 6600m)
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Andrej Stremfelj
sponsor: Slovenia Janak Himal Expedition to Jongsang
bcdate: 2000-09-25
smtdate: 2000-10-06
termdate: 2000-10-14
termnote: Abandoned at 7350m due to death of Markovic
othersmts: Attempted Pyramid (PYRM-003-01) and Kirat Chuli (KIRA-003-01)
campsites: BC(25/09,4950m),ABC(29/09,5500m),xxx(06/10,7350m)
accidents: Fatal fall
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC  at Pangpema 
  ABC at West Langpo Glacier (Glacier C2 on Nepa map).

  From BC had acclimatization climb near Pangpema and point 6456m west-northwest of Pathibhara. All back to ABC and divided into 4 groups for reconnaissance of permitted areas and made 3 C1's:

    Bevk and Samec at 5400m on Pyramid Glacier for Kirat Chuli on 29 Sept; 
    At 5900m on glacier south of Jongsang for Jongsang on 6 Oct; 
    On Jhisang Glacier at 5900m east of point 6340m also for Jongsang on 6 Oct; 
    Klanjscek and Stres had no C1, but alpine style to Jongsang.

  On Kirat Chuli reached 6900m on 7th by Bevk and Samec on South Face.

  On Pyramid (Pathibhara) to 5600m on 7th by Brescak and Kovacic via North Face to West Ridge.

  On Jongsang from South Glacier camp to 6400m via South or SW Face on 7th Oct by Klanjscek and Stres. 

  From Jhisang Glacier camp to summit of Jongsang Peak I 7350m via south wall to summit of unclimbed Jongsang which is south of main peak on 6th Oct by Azman and Markovic. Markovic died while descending during night. Both men very tired and missed route. Snowbar pulled out of snow and Markovic fell 1200m to glacier. Body found and buried on glacier. Now with his death all climbing stopped. Had climbed central couloir.

  From Jhisang Glacier, Marence, Kresal and Stremfelj climbed to 6600m on 7th Oct on Jongsang via South Face up steeper couloir on South Face a little to left of central couloir.

  All members returned to ABC and BC on 7th Oct.

  Only Jongsang really climbed because when heard of Markovic's death, all came back to ABC.


expid: KANG00301
peakid: KANG
year: 2000
route1: SW Face
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Josef Simunek
sponsor: Himalaya 8000 Kangchenjunga Expedition 2000
bcdate: 2000-09-23
smtdate: 2000-10-09
termdate: 2000-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to winds
campsites: BC(23/09,5600m),C1(26/09,6000m),C2(30/09,6200m),C3(01/10,7200m),xxx(09/10,7400m)
agency: Nepal Trans Himalayan Explorer
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 (really a deposit - slept in once)
  C3 (edge of Great Shelf)
  High point on Great Shelf.

  After making C3 sleeping there down to BC to rest. Up again for summit bid on 6 Oct by Jaros, Moravek, Lhakpa Dorje and Tsomba from BC. 7th slept in C2, 8th in C3 and 9th attempted to go on up, keeping on surface and making C4 at about 8000m on 9th and then to top on 10th. But strong winds started up and drove them back from 7400m so down to BC same day with all other members.

  Simunek, Vomackova, Lhakpa Dorje and Tsomba decided to try climb once more and on 15 Oct and slept in C2, C3 on 16th, 17th came down because of wind. 

  3rd team of Jaros, Minarik and Moravek went to C3 17th to sleep, but next day 18th down because frostbite danger now. Very clear weather but terrible winds. Weather forecast bad so decided to abandon climb and all in BC again on 18th. 

  Variety in route with icefalls and shelves, rock, ice, snow made climb "interesting." Despite their rapid progress up to C3, having lost 2 days below BC arguing with porters about wages, "cut up the summit" because strong winds came just before 9 Oct.


expid: KGUR00301
peakid: KGUR
year: 2000
route1: SW Face-NW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Pierre Frachon
sponsor: Atalante Kang Guru Expedition
ascent1: 18th,19th
approach: Na Khola->Meta village
bcdate: 2000-10-19
smtdate: 2000-10-26
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2000-10-30
campsites: BC(19/10,4300m),C1(22/10,5400m),C2(25/10,5900m),Smt(26,28/10)
accidents: Negrier altitude illness and left expedition
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  BC at moraine at below [South]West Face
  C1 up steep moraine to [South]West Face
  C2 at small ridge leading to main NW Ridge.

  Very nice mountain. NW "Ridge is beautiful, very thin, very long but has ledges." 1st summit party of Berger, Males and Sherpa on 26 Oct started at 4:00 am and on top at 12:00 noon. Frachon stopped with Negrier, who was suffering from altitude and Frachon had to take him down to C1. Off summit and returned to C2 at 4 pm. 

  Same day De Varax and Masson had also started for top but reached only 6600m, tired and turned back. Very far from C2 to top but not possible to place a C3 on the way to top because ridge very steep and dangerous from avalanche if there is much snow.

  28th Oct Frachon from C1 to take Desachy to C2 and to try top, but Desachy very tired and reached only 6100m on 28th and down to C1 alone while Frachon continued up face to bring down fixed ropes, but at top of face went on to summit on 28th (arrived on top 10:30 am) and down to BC at 8:00-9:00 pm same day. Cannot see summit from BC or anywhere below C2.


expid: KTEG00301
peakid: KTEG
year: 2000
route1: East Face-S Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Michael Groom
sponsor: Australian Kangtega Expedition
bcdate: 2000-11-10
smtdate: 2000-11-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to severe cold
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak (by 5); attempted Kusum Kanguru
campsites: BC(10/11,4700m),ABC(17/11,4900m),Biv(18/11,5550m),xxx(19/11)
accidents: Rutherford not acclimatizing and stayed at BC few days, then left
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
routememo:
  BC  southeast of mountain on Hinku Glacier on moraine at "a" of "glacier"
  ABC on steep glacier moraine below face 
  Biv on SE Face
  High point at East Face 70m below South Ridge.

  10th-14th Nov climbed Mera Peak "under extreme conditions." If it had not been so easy, never would have made it because very windy as well as cold. Returned to BC 15th and 5 members moved up to ABC, last tented camp on steep glacial moraine below snow line. 18th up to 5550m on face and made biv at 2:00 pm because in shadow and cold. 19th at about 9:00 am 5 members tried to reach plateau at 6300m on SE Ridge, but very deep snow, very windy and very cold (-14 to -18), so turned around at 6200m and back to biv. Clark, Coulton and Groom slept at biv while Drennan and Turner to ABC to sleep because so cold. Should have had tents but at biv, only sleeping bags. Were not expecting weather to be so cold. 20th Clark, Groom and Coulton tried to gain ridge by slightly different route on face. Found the way to ridge and reached 6200m but strong winds and team would have been exposed to such severe conditions. "I felt it wasn't worth it," so down to ABC that evening. Coulton had turned back at 5700m because of bad diarrhea so down to ABC that afternoon. 21st all returned to BC and climb finished. "Could have done it (gotten to top) if had the tents. Then 5 members to Kusum Kanguru but "that was even worse" with fierce winds and didn't even get into this mountain, after spending 4 nights there. 5 had been on Mera in January 2000 and not anywhere near as cold as this.

  (5-10 km plume of snow being blown off Everest and Makalu had its plume blowing east).

  Asked whether he is still a plumber, as he wrote on his bio form, Groom said "I haven't touched my tools in 12 years." Lectures about episodes in his "life story," such as learning to walk again after amputation of 1/3 of both feet because of frostbite on Kangchenjunga in '87.

  When Groom turned around to look down, he found they had gone down to C1 taking important gear with them, leading Col and Groom with only 1 short rope and 3 ice screws, not adequate for remainder of climb and Groom not comfortable with this situation "since Clark was the least experienced technically of all of them." Also windy that day; if had more experienced climbing partner, Groom probably would have continued climb, so abandoned climb.


expid: LHOT00301
peakid: LHOT
year: 2000
route1: W Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Jesus Martinez
sponsor: Independent climber on South Korean permit (Yoon)
ascent1: 58th
approach: By road to Jiri->helicopter to Lukla
bcdate: 2000-09-15
smtdate: 2000-10-02
smttime: 1445
termdate: 2000-10-06
campsites: BC(15/09),C1(19/09,6523m),C2(25/09,7350m),Smt(02/10)
agency: Lali Gurans
routememo:
  Site of normal C2 in Western Cwm
  C2   on West Face of Lhotse.

  On top on 2 Oct at 2:45 pm alone. Martinez was independent climber on permit of South Korean expedition led by Yoon Hong-Keun.


expid: LHOT00302
peakid: LHOT
year: 2000
route1: W Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Young-Moon
sponsor: Korea Ulsan Alpine Federation 2000 Korea Ulsan Everest-Lhotse
ascent1: 60th
bcdate: 2000-08-28
smtdate: 2000-10-06
termdate: 2000-10-10
othersmts: Climbed Everest (EVER-003-003)
campsites: BC(28/08),C1(17/09,6100m),C2(20/09,6400m),C3(25/09,7300m),Smt(06/10)
agency: Asian Trekking
primid: EVER00303
routememo:
  Lhotse to top from C3 (no C4 for Lhotse) on 6 Nov by Hwang Dong-Sig, Jung In-Seok and Lee Gil-Young with no Sherpas (1 Sherpa only to 8100m and another 8400m because oxygen problem).


expid: LHOT00303
peakid: LHOT
year: 2000
route1: E section of S Face of Lhotse & Lhotse Shar
nation: Russia
leaders: Mikhail Turkevich
sponsor: Lhotse-Lhotse Shar Expedition
countries: Ukraine
bcdate: 2000-09-01
smtdate: 2000-10-03
termdate: 2000-10-07
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(01/09,5100m),ABC(02-03/09,5250m),C1(07-08/09,5800m),C2(06/09,6250m),xxx(03/10,7000m)
accidents: Kurbanov serious intestinal problem; Bondarev killed by avalanche
achievment: New route claimed
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  BC  at west side of Lhotse Glacier
  ABC on glacier
  C1  on South Face
  C2  on South Face
  High point at South Face.

  17 Sept climbers on fixed ropes as their way to make C3. Kovaliev, Turkevich, Koval, Glazov, Bondarev and Dorro when avalanche hit (started from 7100m) at 6500m and swept down Bondarev, who was leading and may be not attached to rope securely. Swept down to 5200m or more (don't know). His jacket and backpack found at about 5300m within one hour but body not found in very deep snow. 

  18 Sept decided to stop climb and took down camp in search and more and more snowfall. Searched in dangerous snow conditions. Kept searching actually until 1 Oct by which time spot where avalanche had hit 10+ metres deep. C1 had been left while decided to reestablish C2 and continue climb and also to search C2 area more widely. Made C2 again on 3 Oct and started up again from C2 when radio message from ministry for emergency saying weather not going to improve so recommended stop climb and resume climb in spring. Reached almost 7000m on fixed lines. Hope to return next spring. We rescuers never leave a lost collegue. They planned to climb South Face of Lhotse-Lhotse Shar to a col between these two peaks about 8200-8500m, which no previous climbers had done. From there, half of members to go left along Lhotse's East Ridge to its central summit [Lhotse Middle] while other half members to go right along Lhotse Shar's West Ridge to its summit at same time.

  ** Members who attempted Lhotse Shar are Anatoli Andriouchenkov, Vladimir Bondarev, Constantin Dorro, Alexander Glazov, Kurban Kurbanov, Shanavaz Shanavazov and Igor Slobodtchikov.


  From Russian web site:

  "Though in the permit of the expedition mentioned only Lhotse Main and Lhotse Shar, the main goal is to attempt the unclimbed Lhotse Middle summit."


expid: LSIS00301
peakid: LSIS
year: 2000
route1: S Face (by different lines)
nation: Japan
leaders: Kenichi Matsuzaki
sponsor: Yokosuka Langshisa Ri Expedition 2000
bcdate: 2000-10-12
smtdate: 2000-10-21
termdate: 2000-10-26
termnote: Abandoned at 6175m due to difficult ridge
campsites: BC(12/10,4600m),C1(14/10,5600m),C2(17/10,5800m),xxx(21/10,6175m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Rolwaling Trek
routememo:
  BC at Tsupaiku Langshisa Glacier on "T" in Glacier name on map
  C1 at rock ridge on left side of South Face
  C2 at small glacier right side of rock ridge
  High point at a small summit south-southwest of Langshisa Ri's summit 
     on west edge of South Face.

  First attempted via rock slope to C1-site on rock ridge and to C2 across ridge to small glacier and on flat glacier which is South Face to point (also 5800m) where could see above on South Face many very wide snow avalanches coming down from summit. So abandoned this route on 17 Oct and same day tried another route by crossing this small glacier (which faces South Face) further to east but stopped by hanging glacier at about 6000m and retreated to BC via night stop in C2 to sleep. 20th 3rd route making from C2 up ridge (rock at lower part snow at upper part) to point 6175m. Difficult rock and snow knife-edge ridge and sleep in C2 on night of 20th and again on 21st after having reached summit of point 6175m. 22nd down to BC and climb finished. Had abandoned hope of reaching main summit when abandoned 2nd route. All 5 climbing members and Ang Gyalu Lama to top of point 6175m.


expid: MAKA00401
peakid: MAKA
year: 2000
route1: W Pillar (to 5800m)
route2: S Pillar-S Col (to 6400m)
route3: NW side (to 7100m)
nation: Poland
leaders: Krysztof Wielicki
sponsor: Polish Winter Makalu Expedition
countries: Georgia
approach: KTM-Lukla-Tashigaon by helicopter; 2 flights to BC with gear
bcdate: 2000-12-04
smtdate: 2001-01-07
termdate: 2001-01-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to terrible wind
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  WPillar-BC(04/12,4800m),ABC(06/12,5250m),C1.1(09/12,5800m); SPillar-SCol-C1.2(13/12,5400m),C2.2(15/12,6400m); NWside.ABC(22/12,5300m),C1(26/12,6300m),C2(28/12,6700m),xxx(07/01,7100m)

routememo:
  West Pillar route
    BC at below south of Barun Pokhari
    ABC first on just below junction of Barun and Chago Glacier
    C1 first start of West Pillar

  South Pillar-South Col route
    C1 on 13 at South Ridge (Czechoslovakia route)
    C2 just below South Col

  Northwest side route
    2nd ABC 
    3rd C1 at Chago Glacier
    2nd C2 at Chago Glacier moved on 5th Jan to 6900m just below La
    High point at very near Makalu La


  First C1 at 5800m at start of West Pillar's approach, then Wielicki felt team not strong enough to continue on to pillar and decided to change route and go to SE Ridge via South Col and climb along SE Ridge. 

  Made 2nd C1 at 5400m and a C2 at 6400m but then on 20 Dec C2 blown away like flying carpets over the ridge into Tibet so abandoned this attempt. 

  Made a new ABC at 5300m at junction of Cuzo and Barun Glacier on 22nd for normal route. Fixed 200m towards Makalu La. Tried to go to Makalu La but after 3 attempts to do so, abandoned climb altogether because too windy. Lost C1 and C2 to winds and nearly 40 days on mountain and this really practical maximum. Decided 12 Jan to stop because would take at least a week to rebuild camps. Impossible to sleep at end because of constant noise (like jet engines) of wind. Otherwise weather was "beautiful" with sunshine and very few slight snowfalls, but after dust in air (just like KTM). 

  Wielicki wants to do all 5 highest 8000ers in winter (has done Everest, Kangchenjunga and Lhotse).


expid: MANA00301
peakid: MANA
year: 2000
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: David Rosa
sponsor: University Polytechnic of Valencia Manaslu Expedition
approach: Buri Gandaki from Gorkha->Seti
bcdate: 2000-09-12
smtdate: 2000-09-21
termdate: 2000-10-02
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to fear of Maoist insurgents especially by members' families
campsites: BC(12/09,4850m),C1(20/09,5800m),xxx(21/09,6100m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at normal site
  High point among seracs below normal C2.

  Above C1 tried to climb but stopped when families put pressure on them to leave Maoist area.

  Spanish Manaslu - Autumn 2000
  From David Rosa and Endika Urtaran

  We arrived to Kathmandu in August 28. In August we went to Ministry of Tourism and legalised every electronic instrument we had (satellite telephone, internet computer, walkie-talkies).

  In August 31st we arrived to Gorkha for starting trekking by Buri Gandaki Valley.

  After enjoying a lot, on September the 3rd we had a very bad experience. In the night, in Seti village, about 7 pm a terrorist group assaulted us. They feared us with guns and we had to pay them every rupee we had totally Rs 25,000. They put the guns on our sirdar's head and he had to pay them more money. They socked the boss of the porters and we had to assist him because of the hurts in his face.

  They kept us inside the tents all the night, what it was one of the worst experiences in our life. In the night we was able to use our satellite telephone from our tents with many risk to ask help to police. The next day the liaison officer Mr. Amar Gopal Shrestha said us that one military helicopter would carry us to Kathamndu for free. When police from Arughat arrived to Seti said to us that if wanted helicopter we had to pay. Like we was so fear and we didn't want to sleep another night more in this valley we accepted. We had to go down from Seti to Arughat walking with police, because they said it was possible the terrorist could try through bombs from near hills.

  On August the 4th high militaries from Pokhara came to Arughat and asked us about happened. They said us that this valley was very dangerous and the people from Ministry of Tourism might have told us.

  In the same day we returned to Kathmandu in two trips by commercial helicopters.

  The next day we went to Ministry directly and we thought the Ministry would pay the rescue helicopter but it wasn't. Being students we had to pay money, asking for money.


expid: PUMO00301
peakid: PUMO
year: 2000
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Michele Comi
ascent1: 132
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2000-10-08
smtdate: 2000-10-17
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2000-10-18
campsites: BC(08/10,5200m),C1(12/10,6200m),Smt(17/10)
achievment: Shortest time from BC to summit
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Four of five members started on 16th Oct at 10 pm from BC for summit. Magliano did not attempt because it was not possible for him to make a summit in one day though he had spent a night in C1 (6200m) on 12th Oct. 

  Four climbers reached C1 at 4 am of 17th Oct. Bernasconi reached the summit at 12 noon and other reached summit from 12 to 12:45. All members spent approximately half an hour on the summit. Weather was perfect. They took snow for their research purpose, took photographs. They saw a flag on the summit which was left by the German expedition. Came back to BC at 6 pm of the 17th Oct. They collected snow from different places for the research purposes.


expid: PUMO00302
peakid: PUMO
year: 2000
route1: SE Face/Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Maximilian-Horst Fankhauser
sponsor: Independent team on Italian permit
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2000-10-18
smtdate: 2000-10-22
termdate: 2000-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to avalanching
campsites: BC(18/10,5280m),C1(20/10,5700m),C2(22/10,6200m),xxx(22/10,6200m)
agency: Lamjung
routememo:
  The route was cut by continous avalanches. Came to Pumori base camp after Rolwaling trek. Shared Italian permit to climb the mountain.

  They reached the BC after Italians had left for Kathmandu. Used C1 and C2 which were being pitched by German DAV Summit Club expedition. Greier reached C1 and Robert Fankhauser reached only BC. Took four hours to reach to C2 from C1.


expid: PUMO00303
peakid: PUMO
year: 2000
route1: SE Face/Ridge-E Col
nation: Germany
leaders: Zbigniew Mlynarczyk
sponsor: DAV Summit Club Pumori Expedition
ascent1: 130
countries: Austria, Switzerland
bcdate: 2000-10-01
smtdate: 2000-10-16
smttime: 1245
termdate: 2000-10-20
campsites: BC(01/10,5300m),C1(03/10,5800m),C2(06/10,6200m),Smt(16/10)
accidents: Nothing except chest problem for kitchen boy
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC 100m above Kalapattar at south end of avalanche area
  C1 on ridge on SE Face
  C2 on top of ridge.

  Put fixed rope "quite high" up to 7000m. Attempted summit 2 times unsuccessfully. Problem with big crevasse and avalanche slope on 9th and crevasse here and 12th avalanche problem on slope. In successful attempt found way towards left end of crevasse where was good ice-snow bridge and not so wide. Put 100m rope here. 16th summit bid by 4 members and 2 Sherpas starting at 4:00 am. Dressen turned back at 6400m because feet cold, while others went to top at 12:45 and 1:20 pm and returned to C2 about 4:30 pm together. C2 at 6200m is slightly low, but if make camp at East Col and then it snows, can be trapped there. Leader fixed much rope. Big serac hanging over C2 at 6600-6700m on East Ridge. Going to top you climb behind this serac, but it can be dangerous for those below.


expid: PUMO00304
peakid: PUMO
year: 2000
route1: SE Face/Ridge-E Ridge
nation: Mexico
leaders: Rodrigo Ponce
sponsor: CAIC Pumori Expedition
ascent1: 131
bcdate: 2000-10-01
smtdate: 2000-10-16
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2000-10-23
campsites: BC(01/10,5300m),C1(03/10,5700m),C2(07/10,6150m),Smt(16/10)
accidents: Buenrostro persistent cough sent him to Pheriche, improved with rest
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C2 at top of ridge on SE Face.

  Before making summit attempt on 16th went up to Col (shoulder) 6550m night to acclimatize and then to go to BC to rest, so 1st attempt on summit itself was on 16th. This summit bid by first pair, Ponce and Minakata, as according to plan left BC 15 Oct and arrived at C2. 16th left C2 for top 4:00 am on 16th, arrived at col 8:30 am and top 2 pm, returned to C2 for night at 6:00 pm and to BC on 17th. More technical than expected in entire route and C2 and Col more exposed to avalanche than expected.

  Germans who had made attempt to summit on 12th and encountered huge crevasse across the East Ridge at 6850m extending from Nepal side to Tibet side and they reported it was almost impossible to reach top. On 16th Mexicans and Germans climbed together (Germans had very experienced leader and climbing Sherpas), so Mexicans went to Gorak Shep to buy more rope and had as their goal to get at least to crevasse with Germans. Mexicans fixed their rope with Germans at crevasse and reached top together. 

  2nd summit bid Horta, Buenrostro and Ponce again. Went 20 Oct to C2, left C2 at 2:00 am on 21st but could not reach Col because of very cold strong wind from south and ice screws and snow bars were loose and pieces of ice falling on them. "So we descended" all way to BC. 

  Carrion and Rouret left BC on 17th as originally planned (had reached C2).


expid: PUTH00303
peakid: PUTH
year: 2000
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Georges Derycke
sponsor: Allibert Putha Hiunchuli Expedition
ascent1: 20th
countries: Andorra
approach: Kaya Khola
bcdate: 2000-10-10
smtdate: 2000-10-19
termdate: 2000-10-21
campsites: BC(10/10,4800m),C1(13/10,5350m),C2(14/10,6000m),C3(18/10,6400m?),Smt(19/10)
accidents: 15 Oct Olivier urolgical problem evacuated by chopper (unable to walk)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC as same as Spanish
  C2 never slept in only for "security" safety.

  Estruga descended by snowboard from summit to C1. Descamps by ski from summit to C1. Followed some route as Spanish team this autumn. Camp altitudes may differ from those of Spaniards because of variations in altimeter readings.


expid: RATC00301
peakid: RATC
year: 2000
route1: W Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jean Annequin
sponsor: Himlung Himal 2000
ascent1: 4th
bcdate: 2000-10-11
smtdate: 2000-10-21
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2000-10-24
campsites: BC(11/10,4600m),ABC(15/10,5200m),C1(18/10,6050m),C2(20/10,6500m),Smt(21/10)
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  Oct 20 - Jean Annequin, Challeat, Charpentier, Guillou, Harles, Jartoux, Ullmann and Valentin and three Sherpas slept in C2.

  Oct 21 - Challeat and three Sherpas reached summit. They left C2 around 08:00 hours, summited around 12:30 hours, stayed about 15 minutes, back to C2 at about 15:00 hours.

  Leader and Charpentier had to retreat from about 200m below the summit due to exhaustion of Charpentier. Strong wind and cold.

  Sherpas: 
    Nuru Ongchu (Everest, Baruntse) from near Phaplu
    Gulmin Sherpa (Ama Dablam)
    Dachiri Sherpa (Kang Guru)

  The expedition returned to KTM from Besisahar on Oct 30 and leaves on Nov 1 except Challeat. The Challeat is going to Bardia. He will leave Nepal after a  week or so.


  From a another team in the region:

  Team actually climbed Ratna Chuli. Had intended to climb this mountain all along, but since it is not on government permitted list, they got a permit for Himlung. Made no attempt to climb Himlung. All camp details dates, etc., given to Jeevan Shrestha on 30 Oct 2000 were correct and route was via West Peak to West Ridge and to top via this West Ridge.


expid: TILI00305
peakid: TILI
year: 2000
route1: NE Spur
nation: Singapore
leaders: Seok Hong Yip
sponsor: Singapore Tilicho Expedition
approach: From west via Mesokanto Pass
bcdate: 2000-09-24
smtdate: 2000-10-04
termdate: 2000-10-06
termnote: Abandoned at 5700m due to lack of time
campsites: BC(24/09,4900m),C1(04/10,5700m),xxx(04/10,5700m)
agency: Dhaulagiri Trek House
routememo:
  BC near Tilicho Lake
  High point at C1.

  3 members stayed 1 night in C1 and down to BC 5 Oct. Weather good generally but soft snow encountered on most days. Abandoned climb on 5 Oct because of insufficient time, according to Yip (although on 18 Sept in Kathmandu, Yip said they would return to KTM on 13 or 14 Oct "if possible" flying from Jomsom to Pokhara to KTM).


  Tenzing Sherpa to Shrestha - 21 Oct: 

  The 3 members reached C1 on their 3rd attempt. Every day they climbed same distance and returned to BC. It was difficult for them to climb.


  Georges Frey, French Tilicho leader, to E Hawley - 15 Oct 2000: 

  Singaporeans said they came to mountain too fast by flying to Jomsom and taking only 2 days to reach BC by difficult Mesokantu Pass. Too fast to higher altitude. Also were surprised steepness of NE Spur. Were happy to spend on night at C1. That was their goal (in KTM they said they planned to place a C2 at 6200m at junction of Spur with North Ridge and go to top Oct or before). They were very tired from their fast trek from Jomsom to BC in only 2 days.

  Sherpas: 
    Tenzing Sherpa, Thame, Evr smt 93 Indian Women Exp; 96 Spring American
      (Roffal); 97 Spring British, 98 Spring British; 99 Tibet Japanese 
      & 2000 Oct Tibet Japanese
    Nima Nuru Sherpa, Thame
    Dawa Tsering, Dolakha


expid: CHOY00312
peakid: CHOY
year: 2000
route1: SE Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Min Byung-Nam
approach: via Ngozumba Glacier
bcdate: 2000-08-31
smtdate: 2000-10-11
termdate: 2000-10-14
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to all equipment lost, avalanching and wind
campsites: BC(31/08,5300m),C1(06/09,6100m),C2(10/09,6500m),C3(18/09,7300m),C4(11/10,7800m),xxx(11/10,7800m)
agency: Khumbu Himalayan Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Lungsampa Glacier
  C3 on SE Face
  C4 on SE Face (not slept in)
  High point at C4 site on SE Face.

  2 Korean teams climbed together (Kang Duk-Moon & Min Byung-Nam)

  11 Oct arrived C4 11:00 pm in full moonlight, too much snowing and very strong windy so immediately down to C3 (new snow avalanching to C4 site); returned C3 midnight and now big ice avalanching: 4 people hit on heads and 3 running and left and almost all equipment in C3 swept away, so slept in C2, arriving 2 am.

  Between C2 and C3 accident: Pasang Nima, Pemba Gyalzen and Pasang Nuru Sherpa* carrying equipment from old C1 (now depot) to new C1 hit by avalanche 20 Sept and swept 400-500m into crevasses and died (buried by avalanche). (1 or 3-4 Sept made C1 at 5700m at top of couloir and moved to 6100m). This accident delayed progress to C4.

  * These three Sherpas were hired by expedition in the mountains but all came from Phortse says trekking agent.


expid: LHOT00304
peakid: LHOT
year: 2000
route1: W Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Yoon Hong-Keun
sponsor: 2000 Chungbuk Korean Everest-Lhotse Expedition
ascent1: 59th
bcdate: 2000-09-03
smtdate: 2000-10-05
smttime: 0925
termdate: 2000-10-08
othersmts: Climbed Everest (EVER-003-01)
campsites: BC(03/09),C1(17/09,6100m),C2(20/09,6400m),C3(25/09,7300m),C4(03/10,7900m),Smt(05/10)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
primid: EVER00302
routememo:
  No C4 for Lhotse. 4 Oct 11:00 pm started for top and on top 5 Oct 9:25 am by 3 men. Face icy but good snow conditions and did not use other fixed ropes. Pasang returned to C3 at 12:00 noon and 2 Koreans 3:30 pm (very tired); Pasang down to C2 to sleep but Koreans slept in C3.

  Lhotse summit Sherpa: 
    Pasang Nurbu (aka Norbu) Sherpa, Namche Bazaar, 1955 
      Makalu 1982 with Koreans, Everest 1990 with Nepalese army


expid: AMAD01101
peakid: AMAD
year: 2001
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Marc Fairhead
sponsor: Australian Ama Dablam Expedition 2001
bcdate: 2001-03-25
smtdate: 2001-04-01
termdate: 2001-04-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to bad snow conditions and lack of time
campsites: BC(25/03,4600m),ABC(01/04,5300m),C1(04/04,5850m),C2(11/04,6200m),xxx(11/04,6200m)
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC  at normal site
  ABC at "yak camp" on ridge
  C1  on SW Ridge
  C2  at normal site on pinnacle
  High point at C2.

  Were only people on mountain when Aussies got to C2. Interested to summit from C2 on 13 April but that day 9-inch snowfall all kept them in C2. Next day 14 April even more snowfall and that night fierce thunderstorm which was frightening, "perched on small pinnacle on a little ridge," as Schroeder put it. Fairchild and Schroeder were always intended to be the summit climbers and others supporting them. Now weather still looking bad and time running out, so down on 15th in difficult snow conditions (total 1-1/2 ft fell) to C1, where crawled into Spanish tent while our tent left at C2. BC on 16th where waited 17th and 18th to C1 to clear equipment and snowed all day: difficult here in boulder field covered with snow.


expid: AMAD01102
peakid: AMAD
year: 2001
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Sergei Menchenin
sponsor: Ama Dablam 2001 Expedition
countries: Russia
bcdate: 2001-04-09
smtdate: 2001-04-17
termdate: 2001-04-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to Menenchin not feeling well and lack of time
campsites: BC(09/04,4600m),C1(13/04,5900m),xxx(17/04,6100m)
accidents: Menchenin slight altitude sickness
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  Put gear at site for C2 on 17 April and then went down to C1 to get more gear for C2. 18th in C1 because of fog and new snowfall all day. During night Menchenin developed altitude problems so 19th up to C2 site to bring down gear and down to BC same day; 21st up again to bring rest of gear down but attempt on summit abandoned (decision to abandon taken on 19th). Fixed rope below C1 (fixed 140m).


expid: AMAD01103
peakid: AMAD
year: 2001
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Jordi Montana Pineda
sponsor: Osona to Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 2001-04-07
smtdate: 2001-04-25
termdate: 2001-04-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to route too difficult in bad weather
campsites: BC(07/04,4500m),C1(11/04,5700m),C2(22/04,5900m),C3(24/04,6200m),xxx(25/04,6300m)
agency: Sea to Summit Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at normal site
  C2 on SW Ridge (little space for tents)
  C3 below normal site, below serac
  High point on SW Ridge above serac at start of snow slope.

  Bad weather after C1 so stayed in BC in C3 below normal site by 100m because of strong wind. Went one hundred meters above C3 and back because strong wind and cold; tried again for top on 26 April but no success. Perhaps went up for top too early in morning. 26th got to 6300m but more technical climb above it was difficult in wind and cold again. No food in C2 and C3 so down to C2 and climb finished.


expid: AMAD01104
peakid: AMAD
year: 2001
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Matt Fioretti
sponsor: American Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 348
bcdate: 2001-04-05
smtdate: 2001-04-28
termdate: 2001-05-04
campsites: BC(09/04,4575m),ABC(08/04,5240m),C1(11/04,5600m),C2(15/04,5975m),Smt(28/04)
accidents: Clapp cracked molar (left expedition 13 or 14 April)
agency: Adventure Karnali
routememo:
  BC at normal place
  C2 on SW Ridge.

  Summit success badly delayed by daily snowfall including 6 inches in "couple of hours." Core team from C2 on 27 April for top but rope already there was too thin "twine" and had left own rope at BC: went to 6100m where "Korean Time" began. Then yaks were arriving on 1st so not enough time to bring up rope and go to top. Core team decided to stop climb on 27th but two others used the "twine" to summit. In core team, all 3 went to 6100m and turned back.

  "Core team" were Fioretti, Miller and Ohlson; other four members climbed semi-independently of them.


expid: AMAD01105
peakid: AMAD
year: 2001
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Haruki Inokuchi
sponsor: Chamonix Club Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2001-03-24
smtdate: 2001-04-05
termdate: 2001-04-07
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to bad condition of ice
campsites: BC(24/03,4700m),C1(27/03,5300m),C2(02/04,5600m),xxx(05/04,6600m)
agency: Himalayan Sherpa Adventure
routememo:
  Rope had been fixed by the Sherpas of this team from C1 to the altitude of 6600m. Ice was not solid, it came out into pieces when ice axes were stroked on ice. So it was difficult to fix ice axe on ice.

  All climbers started climbing on 5th April at 4:30 am from C2, reached at 6600m at around 10:00 am, spent about 15 minutes and turned around. Came down to C2 at 5:00 pm. Inokuchi and Pasang Dawa spent a night at C2 and rest of the climbers came down to BC.

  Pasang Dawa said Inokuchi looked an experienced mountaineer.


expid: AMAD01106
peakid: AMAD
year: 2001
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Oscar Cadiach
sponsor: Al Filo Ama Dablam & Lhotse
ascent1: 349
bcdate: 2001-04-11
smtdate: 2001-05-03
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2001-05-05
othersmts: Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-011-04)
campsites: BC(11/04,4500m),C1(5700m),C2(6000m),C3(6300m),Smt(03/05)
agency: Sea to Summit Trekking
primid: LHOT01104
routememo:
  Left C3 for top on 3 May at 5:00 am and on top 11:00 am one after the other on some rope (1st was Callado, then Onate, Cadiach, Sabadell, Sanchez) and slept in C3 which reached 2:00 pm. Next day 4 May to BC. 

  Zerain not to top because leg problem, but went to Lhotse (problem in Europe and at BC only 29 April and no climbing on Ama Dablam).


expid: BARU01101
peakid: BARU
year: 2001
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Pavel Klimes
sponsor: Baruntse Czech-French Expedition
ascent1: 56th
countries: France
approach: Chhukung->Amphu Laptsa
bcdate: 2001-04-13
smtdate: 2001-04-24
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2001-04-28
campsites: BC(13/04,5400m),C1(19/04,6150m),C2(23/04,6700m),Smt(24/04)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  BC near smaller lake west of West Col
  C1 east of West Col
  C2 at start of SE Ridge

  Chatel only climbing member not to go to top as he thought it too risky up narrow ridge with ice covered by snow and both sides of ridge very steep ice. At 9:00 am were at 6700m at site of final ridge and to top at 3:00 pm in windy, cloudy and snow falling and no visability on top (breaking visability few seconds). Difficult descent to C2 in continued bad weather, so back in C2 at 6:00 pm, guided by some of Chatel's calls and whistle from a bit fixed 200m below North Col to Col, 200m on final ridge. Used some fixed rope already there. No one else on mountain while this team was there.


expid: BARU01102
peakid: BARU
year: 2001
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Mike Grocott
sponsor: Anglo-German Baruntse Expedition 2001
countries: Germany
approach: Tumlingtar->Siptingla->Makalu BC
bcdate: 2001-04-26
smtdate: 2001-05-08
termdate: 2001-05-10
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to porter management problem and small group
campsites: BC(26/04,5700m),C1(08/05,6100m),xxx(08/05,6100m)
agency: Sundar Himali
routememo:
  They reached an altitude of 5200m, a day below BC. On 24th April, porters asked extra money if they had to go above this point, but due to lack of money with team, they could not pay porters, so they turned around from there; thus team members had to carry all loads from this point to BC.

  Bierling had rib pain and bleeding at BC. She got rid of it after 2 days.

  Ansell was not used to altitude, so he did not feel like staying at BC; he left BC on 6th May and arrived in Kathmandu on 12 May.

  Bierling, Grocott and Pasang Sherpa came back to Kathmandu via Chhukung, Namche.


expid: BARU01103
peakid: BARU
year: 2001
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Stephen Richardson
sponsor: Jagged Globe Baruntse Expedition 2001
countries: Australia, Sweden, USA
bcdate: 2001-05-09
smtdate: 2001-05-14
termdate: 2001-05-16
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to dangerous snow conditions
campsites: BC(09/05,5500m),ABC(11/05,6000m),C1(13/05,6200m),xxx(14/05,6900m),xxx(14/05,6900m)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  Eleven climbers started their climbing on 14th May at 4 am from C1. Smithies turned back from an altitude of 6400m because he was slow. Other ten climbers (8 members plus 2 Sherpas) continued their climbing until they reached at an altitude of 6900m at 10 am. They attempted to go further but snow conditions were very bad: it was soft and deep. They could not fix the ropes. They spent an hour there and decided to abandon the expedition and turned around.

  It took for them half an hour to come down to C1 and the same day they brought everything down to BC.


expid: CHOY01118
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Giovanni Ruscani
sponsor: Valmadrera Himalaya 2001
bcdate: 2001-04-14
smtdate: 2001-05-10
termdate: 2001-05-16
termnote: Abandoned at 7350m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(14/04),ABC(17/04,5700m),C1(25/04,6400m),C2(29/04,7000m),C3(10/05,7350m),xxx(10/05,7350m)
accidents: M. Rusconi suspected edema but returned to climb Ok
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  After C2 weather bad with strong wind and and snow fell for three days, so down to C1 on 11 May. Climb finished.


expid: CHOY01101
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Fabrizio Zangrilli
sponsor: 2001 Ultimate Ascents Cho Oyu Expedition
countries: Australia, Canada, Mexico
bcdate: 2001-04-01
smtdate: 2001-04-27
termdate: 2001-05-06
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to bad weather
othersmts: Attempted Everest (EVER-011-27)
campsites: BC(01/04),ABC(03/04,5600m),C1(09/04,6400m),C2(26/04,7000m),xxx(27/04,8100m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Moreno and Robertson started up from C2 with Austrians for top; left C2 at 1:00 am on 27 April. Moreno to 8000m and Robertson to 8100m: white-out conditions so down to C2 and climb finished. (All five had been in C2 on 26/27 April). Lost $850 by other teams' refusal to pay $100 per expedition for costs of fixing rope first. Mountain very dry with ice conditions requiring more ropes than used.


expid: CHOY01102
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: Austria
leaders: Wolfgang Koelblinger
sponsor: Cho Oyu Expedition 2001
ascent1: 387
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2001-04-05
smtdate: 2001-04-30
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2001-05-05
campsites: BC(05/04,4900m),ABC(07/04,5700m),C1(15/04,6400m),C2(27/04,7000m?),Smt(30/04)
agency: Karyang Kurung Treks
routememo:
  April 30 both members left C2 at 01:00 hours. Leader reached the summit at around 12:30 hours. Other member summited at around 12:50 hours. The day was cloudy and windy. Down to C2 around 17:00 hours.

  The team deposited supplies in C2 on April 27. C1 supplies were deposited on 11 and 13 April. During the expedition they shuttled between ABC and C1 eleven times. Most of the days were windy, snow and very cold. 

  According to the expedition team, this was the second successful ascent of the season - the first one by Swiss expedition.

  May 3 left ABC. Luckily left in a jeep going to Tingri hired by an American women. From Tingri to May 4 Kathmandu travel with the African expedition in Asian Trek Transport (bus). 

  Leader Koelblinger will be joining the OED/ECO Himal scheduled for November in Khumbu.

  They met Fausto De Stefani, the Italian climber who had all 8000m summits.


expid: CHOY01103
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Carlos Suarez Mosguera
sponsor: Sanga Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 391
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2001-04-20
smtdate: 2001-05-14
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2001-05-25
campsites: BC(20/04,5000m),ABC(23/04,5700m),C1(30/04,6400m),C2(08/05,7100m),C3(09/05,7500m),Smt(14/05)
accidents: Raventos altitude sickness
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  CBC on April 22 Intermediate Camp
  C1 erected on 26th all members sleep.

  May 13: Slept in C2. Mr. Fernandez exhausted and little sick.
          Next morning was Ok.
  May 14: Left C2 at 00:30 hours. Suarez reached summit around 11:30 hours
          and Fernandez reached around 12:30 hours. Weather condition
          was very good. Leader said the Everest is very big and looks 
          near. The sight was beyond his expectation. While coming down
          Fernandez was very tired and complaining from bleariness -
          blue red. They (both members) spent night in C3 - bivouacked 
          inside the empty tent, no sleeping and little to eat, very cold.
          Next day in C2. Fernandez got medication injection, then ABC.
  May 19: Rest of members of the expedition attempted summit from BC. On 
          21st slept in C3 and had to retreat due to bad (windy) weather.

  Raventos left ABC on about 25 April due to altitude sickness: very bad headache, no food taken. Left Nepal maybe on April 28 or 29.

  The team returned to Kathmandu on May 26. Team members leave on June 1. Leader will be leaving on June 2.


expid: CHOY01104
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Karl Kobler
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Cho Oyu Expedition 2001
ascent1: 386
countries: Germany
bcdate: 2001-03-22
smtdate: 2001-04-11
termdate: 2001-04-25
othersmts: Xixabangma
campsites: BC(22/03),ABC(26/03,5650m),C1(28/03,6300m),C2(09/04,7000m),C3(10/04,7400m),Smt(11/04)
accidents: Morel and Zwyssig frostbite (Morel will lose one finger tip, Zwyssig may lose tips of toes)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  29 March fixed C2 and down to ABC. 8 April up from ABC to C1. 9 April to C2 and slept there. 10 April to C4. 11 April on top. Summit party were: Haefliger, Kessler, Kobler, Morel, Mrs. Pasche, Olivier Pasche, Schlaeppi, Straub, Zwyssig, 3 Sherpas, 3 Tibetans. Haefliger, Kobler and Kessler down same day; others in C2 and C3. All in ABC by 13 April had to wait for loads to come down and yaks to arrive.

  Morel fell 5-6m, broke a rib and developed lung infection; left expedition 15 April with this problem and frostbitten fingers, top of one of which he will lose.

  Sherpas to top: 
    Gyalu Lama, Lukla (Everest 5/2000)
    Nawang Thile (aka Pemba Dorje), Beding, Cho Oyu X7, Everest X3, K2
    Ang Dawa (aka Dawa), Tapting, Solu, 18/5/73, 1st 8000er

  Tibetans were from Tibet Mountaineering Association's climbing school:
    Dorje Karsang (19-22) 
    Tashi
    Nawang


expid: CHOY01105
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Holger Kloss
sponsor: First Saxon-Anhalt Cho Expedition
ascent1: 394
bcdate: 2001-04-21
smtdate: 2001-05-18
smttime: 1315
termdate: 2001-05-20
campsites: BC(21/04),ABC(24/04,5700m),C1(26/04,6400m),C2(30/04,7100m),C3(08/05,7450m),Smt(18/05)
accidents: Moeller had bad edema and left 25 April; Holger Kloss injured knee 8 May (one leg into crevasse)
agency: Poon Hill
routememo:
  ABC at same altitude as others but 10 minutes away.

  10 May tried for top but at 7800m turned back because of clouds, snow and wind (Lindenau, Mach, Herlt and Marschke). 

  Next bid on 14 May by Bornschein and Franze from C2 to about to C3 and returned because cold.

  18 May from C3 Lindenau, Mach and Marschke 5:05 am; Marschke turned back at 7600m (not motivated) and other 2 to top at 1:15 pm NST, only summiters that day in wind, but clear and saw Everest pyramid. Returned to C3 Mach at 3:15 and Lindenau at 4:00 pm.


expid: CHOY01106
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Robert Rackl
sponsor: Amical Alpin Cho Oyu Expedition 2001
ascent1: 393
countries: Austria, Chile, France
bcdate: 2001-04-21
smtdate: 2001-05-14
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2001-05-15
campsites: BC(21/04,4900m),ABC(24/04,5700m),C1(29/04,6200m),C2(07/05,7000m),C3(08/05,7400m),Smt(14/05)
accidents: Gelhardt and Hoffman frostbite
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C3 at not slept in until 14 May by 3 in descent.

  14 May 10:30 am NST left C2 for top: Binder, Rummel, Gelhardt, Joachim, Graeff, Seidel, Hadel, Hoffmann, Eisenhans, Rackl, Chuldim Sherpa and Lhakpa Sherpa. Six returned at 6500m either slightly sick or too cold. Above yellow band went Gelhardt, Hadel, Eisenhans and Hoffmann only. 7800m Gelhardt with frostbite (one very badly frozen and three others not so bad); 2 others nearly to 8000m where Hoffmann had eye problems and Eisenhans down with him (eyes were Ok down in C3). Hadel on alone to top (flags there and followed trail of earlier summiters) and arrived at 3:00 pm in clear sky on top but other peaks in clouds; he also returned to C3 only at 8:30 pm in dark (had reached yellow band in day light and route below had fixed ropes). 

  Hoffmann on 16 May from C2 to parapented down but fell into crevasse and rescued by other German expedition and Australians (mildly frostbitten fingers from 5 hours in crevasse 10-15m down).


expid: CHOY01107
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Mario Vielmo
sponsor: Independent team
ascent1: 392
bcdate: 2001-04-16
smtdate: 2001-05-14
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2001-05-17
campsites: BC(16/04),ABC(18/04,5700m),C1(27/04,6450m),C2(02/05,7030m),Smt(14/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  13 May midnight left C2 on summit push and 14 May on top alone: followed crampon trail of American and Spanish in foggy weather to top where trail stopped and waited for fog to lift; it lifted but but Everest in clouds. American leader Wedberg said they had seen Everest an hour or so before at top. Returned to C2 5:30 pm. Exposed rock from C2 to C3 ice and seracs. 

  Moretti went no higher than 6050m and very sick and returned to ABC and stayed at ABC for rest of time while Vielmo on mountain.


  Wedberg - 21 May 

  US leader Wedberg when descending from summit met Vielmo above plateau's shoulder and gave him water and candy. Vielmo seemed Ok going towards summit.


expid: CHOY01108
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Tae-Wung
sponsor: 2001 Korea Kim's Cho Oyu expedition
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2001-05-04
smtdate: 2001-05-19
termdate: 2001-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to nonfunctioning oxygen regulator
campsites: BC(04/05,4750m),ABC(07/05,5700m),C1(10/05,6250m),C2(15/05,6900m),C3(18/05,7300m),xxx(19/05,7600m)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  On 6th slept in camp in between BC and ABC.

  The young Kim suffered from diarrhea on 19th and also his glove was blown away by strong wind.

  The oxygen to be used by the boy did not work. Then gave up the climb. 

  Weather condition was good. 

  The father and son team planning for Everest expedition (south) for next year.


expid: CHOY01109
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Kurt Wedberg
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 388
approach: Lhasa->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 2001-04-15
smtdate: 2001-05-14
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2001-05-19
campsites: BC(15/04,4895m),ABC(20/04,5730m),C1(27/04,6430m),C2(07/05,7159m),C3(08/05,7522m),Smt(14/05)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  Summit: May 13 Marshall, Prebble, Romary and Wedberg slept in C3. May 14 left C3 at 02:30 hours, summit at 10:30 hours. Spent about an hour on top. Returned to C2 at about 18:00 hours. Wedberg said he saw Everest, Lhotse, Makalu from the summit. Wedberg, while descending met Mario Vielmo above the shoulder plateau and he gave him water and candy. Mario seemed Ok going toward summit. The team descended to ABC on 14th.

  Apr 27: All ten members slept in C1.
  May 04: Gladbach and Shaw left BC due to exhaustion.
  May 07: Remaining eight members slept in C2.
  May 08: Remaining eight members slept in C3 on oxygen.
  May 12: Berryman-Shafer (suffered from flu) and returned to ABC on 13th.
          Agle, Porter and Young left BC for KTM (three members were exhausted). 


expid: CHOY01110
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Jamie McGuinness
sponsor: Project Himalaya /Arun Trek's Expedition
ascent1: 390
countries: Finland, Hungary, New Zealand, UK
bcdate: 2001-04-24
smtdate: 2001-05-14
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2001-05-17
campsites: BC(24/04),ABC(29/04,5698),C1(03/05,6434m),C1.5(6850m),C2(10/05,7104m),C3(13/05,7562m),Smt(14/05)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  14 May Searle, McGuinness, Lipsher, Lhotta, Pasang, Dendi and Nyamgal left C3 3:30 am, on top 10:30 am. On top saw bottom half of Everest and more of Makalu while team was in clear weather and gentle wind. Searle got cold feet 4:30 am, turned around, back to C2, up again to 8150m on plateau with Germans, at 5:00 pm caught in storm of snow and wind and white out, but safely in C3 by 5:30 pm. All others on summit - returned to C2 3:00 pm to 4:30 pm.

  Sherpas: 
    Phurba Pasang, Charwo, Sotang, Solukhumbu, Cho Oyu 9/1999 and 9/2000
    Dendi Chiri, Charwo, 1974, 1st 8000er
    Namgyal, Diktal, 23 years old, 1st 8000er


expid: CHOY01111
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Benito Molina
sponsor: Spanish Army Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 389
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2001-04-22
smtdate: 2001-05-14
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2001-05-20
campsites: BC(22/04,4800m),ABC(24/04,5700m),C1(26/04,6400m),C2(01/05,7000m),Smt(14/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  May 14 left C2 at 00:00 hours. Summit by Exposito Laroz at about 10:30; Villar Llinas around 12:00 hours NST; Penarroya Prats and Yarto Nebreda followed same. All left summit around 13:30 hours to C2 at about 18:30. May 15 to ABC.

  Second group of four people made attempt to summit but had to retreat. Met American team almost all on oxygen with one Sherpa. Also met Mario and three Germans at around plateau shoulder.

  Carril Caso returned home from Tingri due to altitude sickness. Team returned to KTM on May 21.

  Thinking of Dhaulagiri for next year.


expid: CHOY01112
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: S Africa
leaders: Alexander Harris
sponsor: South Africa Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 2001-04-05
smtdate: 2001-04-30
termdate: 2001-05-03
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to poor health of one member
campsites: BC(05/04,4700m),ABC(06/04,5700m),C1(09/04,6200m),C2(28/04,7400m),xxx(30/04,7600m)
accidents: Only Barnard's bad throat
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  10 April Durge and 2 members to ABC and stayed at ABC in bad weather (snow and wind). Up to C1 but weather again not good and back to ABC again. 28 April reached C2 and slept 2 nights. 30 April up to 7600m (nearly to C3) with Austrians, who went to top directly to summit; turned back at 7600m because Barnard's throat problem and so down to C1. 1 May to ABC and climb finished.


expid: CHOY01113
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Luigi Rampini
sponsor: Independent climber
bcdate: 2001-04-16
smtdate: 2001-04-28
termdate: 2001-05-17
termnote: Abandoned at 7030m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(16/04),ABC(18/04,5700m),C1(27/04,6450m),xxx(28/04,7030m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  High point at C2 site.

  Rampini and Vielmo climbed together to ABC, C1 and to site of C2 on 23 April, but at C1 night of 28 April Rampini (crazy man) quarrelled with Vielmo. Moretti did not like him. Rampini after 28 April climbed alone. Vielmo and Moretti think Rampini never got higher than C2 site. Vielmo thinks he stayed always in ABC after that.

  Rampini later on 20 May telephoned me and said he went to C2 only one time - no one summited Cho Oyu, Spanish and Australians told him.


expid: CHOY01114
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Lionel Pernollet
sponsor: Independent team
bcdate: 2001-04-16
smtdate: 2001-04-29
termdate: 2001-05-02
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to bad visibility
campsites: BC(16/04),ABC(18/04,5750m),C1(23/04,6400m),C2(29/04,7100m),xxx(29/04,7100m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  ABC as same as others
  C1 as same as others
  High point at C2.

  Cellier and Sherpa up for summit bid slept on C2 on 29 April but next day bad visability after night's snowfall and wind, so down to ABC and climb finished. There was 2-3 day window of good weather expected, but Pernollet knew he could not go to top and back in this short time, so did not go to C2.


expid: CHOY01115
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Steve Hartland
sponsor: Jagged Globe Cho Oyu Expedition 2001
countries: Argentina, Denmark, Spain, Sweden
bcdate: 2001-04-15
smtdate: 2001-05-10
termdate: 2001-05-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to bad weather and lack of time to recover strength
campsites: BC(15/04,4900m),ABC(18/04,5650m),C1(26/04,6400m),C2(08/05,7000m),C3(10/05,7400m),xxx(10/05,7400m)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  10th night strong winds which moved a lot of snow and brought grave avalanche danger. Had small avalanche soon after leaving C3 but fortunately people were on fixed ropes at the time and no one was hurt. 11th down to C1 and no time left for another attempt by exhausted people of 11th May. 

  Vivares left expedition after 3 May when found the climb beyond her capabalities; left  6 May.


expid: CHOY01116
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Erich Berger
sponsor: Independent climber
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2001-03-15
smtdate: 2001-03-20
termdate: 2001-04-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m
campsites: BC(15/03),ABC(18/03,5600m),C1(20/03,6300m),xxx(20/03,6300m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  High point at C1 on a small ridge towards northwest side.

  At C1 was snowing and windy: 2-1/2 hours after 1 tent pitched and after Berger had twice asked Lila Tamang to pitch another tent and he did so and they slept in separate tents. Next morning they went together to ABC. Day after that Berger wanted to discuss with Lila about next move. Lila did not discuss next moves but kept talking about his summit bonus. Berger promised there would be a bonus and got angry and said our relationship not working, you're talking about bonus and I want to talk about program. Berger's anger stemmed from several days of Lila not putting up tent earlier and other petty problems. For me the expedition is over, you can do anything you want but I am leaving. It is possible this bonus discussion never took place and when he was alone after Lila went up on 31 March Erich realized he was not getting anywhere and left.

  1 May: "I think he is the kind of person who makes up a story as he goes along."

  30 May - Swiss Cho Oyu expedition leader Karl Kobler: Berger spent only one night in C1 and then down to ABC and never went back up. He got angry with his Tamang. On 23 or 24 April asked to join Kobler's team, but Kobler refused because Kobler had to rescue him on Xixabangma in 1998 with altitude sickness in C2. Berger got angry with Kobler and left ABC and BC on 28 April. Maybe altitude affected his brain: "he was a little crazy."

  30 March both men down to ABC. Up from ABC 1st time 25 March by Lila and 26 March to C1 (again Lila only) to deposit gear and slept in ABC. 29th both Lila and Erich up to C1 and slept there. 30th down to ABC. 31 March in morning Erich angry. Lila mood not good. Erich had jacket. Lila went to C1 carrying food, gas and tent there. 1 April Lila fixed rope up to nearly C2; very windy - back to ABC and no Erich; Erich in BC then. 2 April Lila up to C1 to bring down all supplies to ABC and slept there. Still no Erich and Lila never saw him again at mountain or in KTM. Lila to BC 9 April after waiting for yaks. Why Erich left, Lila doesn't know.

  BC(18/03),ABC(22/03),C1(29/03),xxx(29/03) 


expid: CHOY01117
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: W Face
nation: Australia
leaders: Chris Mckelvey
sponsor: Australian Cho Oyu Expedition 2001
countries: New Zealand
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2001-04-22
smtdate: 2001-05-14
termdate: 2001-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to weather conditions and limited time
campsites: BC(22/04,4950m),ABC(25/04,5730m),C1(29/04,6450m),C2(13/05,7160m),xxx(14/05,7400m)
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
routememo:
  Chris Mckelvey is acting leader. The formal leader Glenn Sharrock had to leave the expedition on April 19 from Nyalam due to the illness of his wife at home.

  Byrom and Harvey along with 3 Germans, rescued a German (Hoffman) paraglider who fell on the crevasse; it took them about six hours on May 16.

  The team arrived KTM on May 22 and leaves on 25.
   
  Relations: 
    Michael and Alistair Byrom are brothers 
    Alan Frost and Christopher Frost are father and son
    Mrs Kelly Southee and Eric Young are husband and wife


expid: CHOY82302
peakid: CHOY
year: 1982
route1: NW side
nation: W Germany
leaders: Hans-Burkhard Nix
approach: From Phortse NNE to Lungsampa Glacier via Na and Gokyo village
smtdate: 1982-11-09
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to lack of food and no person to climb high with
campsites: ABC(07/11),C1(08/11,6300m),xxx(09/11,6800m)
accidents: Nothing serious
routememo:
  After attempt on Nuptse, Nix and Ruemmer went to try Cho Oyu without authorization. From 1st high camp at 6300m on west side "killer slope", Nix climbed slope and moved east to Cho Oyu's icefall; stopped here and returned to camp, where Ruemmer had stopped because of an infection.

  Climb now abandoned because no food left and had failed to catch up with Mischa Saleki, who was on his own unauthorized attempt with 3 Sherpas.


expid: EVER01151
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Theodore Kossart
sponsor: 2001 Australian North Ridge Expedition
bcdate: 2001-03-31
smtdate: 2001-05-21
termdate: 2001-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 7950m due to health, stolen oxygen and lack of time
campsites: BC(21/03),ABC(05/04,6400m),C1(20/04,7000m),C2(21/05,7900m),xxx(21/05,7950m)
agency: Nepal Sanctuary Treks
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C2 on North Ridge
  High point slightly above C2.

  Kossart started with Ferris's C1 for summit push but turned around at 7600m flu/respiratory infection so back to C1 while Ferris continued up. Ferris to C2 on 21 May and slept there, found oxygen had been stolen, so did not try to continue but turned back on 22nd and returned to ABC and climb finished. 

  One climbing Sherpa Phurba Tshering (EvX2) got to 7800m and had to leave expedition with bleeding ulcers; cook left on 3rd day BC with bad pulmonary edema. Ferris and Karis got bad flu, bronchitis and had to go to Tingri to recover which delayed progress on mountain. 

  Climbed abandoned because of bad health, stolen oxygen and time to mount new attempt would have been in bad weather.


expid: EVER01101
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Brant Didden
ascent1: 397
countries: Canada
bcdate: 2001-04-05
smtdate: 2001-05-23
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2001-05-26
campsites: BC(05/04),C1,C2(13/04,6400m),C3(22/04,7200m),C4(22/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
accidents: O'Bryan trouble breathing (asthema) while descending from top on 23 May; Babu Chiri's death
agency: Nomad Expeditions
routememo:
  C2 in West Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse face
  C4 at South Col at 2:00 pm.

  C4 late because of bad weather (wind and snow) and Babu Chiri's death. All 3 members and Nima Dorje (Boka Lama) and Pasang Narbu left C4 for top 9:15 pm 22 May. Didden turned back to C4 at balcony just before 4:00 am because oxygen system failure while others to top at 8:30 am on 23rd and down to C4 and all slept in C4. Climb finished.

  Pasang Narbu, 20/12/73, Makalu VDC, scaled Kangchenjunga 20/5/00.


  Dawa - 19 May (Re Babu Chiri's death)

  Crevasse 200m from Babu's camp and he fell 30m because of fresh snow covering the crevasse; found by Dawa, Benegas (OTT), and sirdar Pemba Gyalzen. Benegas into crevasse at midnight and found Babu dead; next morning started again and body brought out 9:00 am.


  Babu Chiri Sherpa - 35 years old, Taksindu, Solu

  Incredibly strong climber and obviously extremely fast.
  Fine person - "a gentleman."
  Wanted to build school in his poor village for his people.

  Spectacular feats:
   1) fastest ascent last May in just under 17 hours.
   2) 21.5 hrs on top May 99 without any artificial oxygen during entire
      climb and 2nd ascent later same month. This totally his own idea.
   3) total 10 ascents of Everest; if successful this May, would have joined
      one other Sherpa (Apa) as only person to make 11 ascents.
   4) 1st to make 2 complete ascents in same month (May '95).


  Email from Miguel Helft - 10 May 2001

  On April 20th at about 2 pm, Babu walked by camp with his trademark charismatic smile. We talked a bit about the mountain. At about 4:30 according to Pemba Sherpa, Babu walked past my tent.

  According to Dawa Babu was behaving a bit strangely. He was going to explore the surrounding area. As u know, thats something climbers rarely have energy for...
  C2 is on glacial moraine next to the West of Everest. There were some moraine hills separating my camp and that of Spanish Expedition Inaqui. This season, with the almost constant snowfall, those moraine hills were partially covered in snow.

  It seems that Babu walked through there, as that would have give him a good view of C2 and the Khumbu Glacier. For some reason, I had a strange uneasy gut feeling all day. A black bird (crow/raven) came into my kitchen tent. You know those are incarnations of Sherpas. At around 10 pm, there were many Sherpas coming and going. I couldn't sleep and was lying awake. At 12:30 Dorji came into my tent screaming. "Willie, big problem! Babu fell into a crevasse." Frantically, I started to get dressed while our own dressed while our own Sherpas were scrambling to prepare my climbing gear. To my surprise, I only had to walk about 30 meters. There I found Lhakpa Gelu standing near a small hole in the snow. As soon as I peaked over, I realized there was a serious problem.

  Babu's track coming uphill, disappeared into the hole. We decided that we needed to work from above the hole, not from below. The first thing I did was to have a Sherpa send for Sandy Allen, since I wanted someone experienced above the crevasse. The crevasse was no more than a meter in width. It was dark and seemed to have a jumble of ice chunks teetering on each other side. It was a typical moraine crevasse.

  With Pemba and my Sherpas, we prepared the anchors. When Sandy arrived I started to go down, following the bottom of the crevasse for about 9 meters. I was pretty scared and had no idea what I would find. I soon ran into a wall of ice blocks among which I could see Babu's leg. I was terrified. Immediately I realized he had passed away.

  I radioed the news, and also decided it made more sense to retrieve his body during the day time. I jumared up the rope. When I got out of the crevasse, the Sherpas and I were completely overtaken with emotion. We could not believe what had happened. Babu died in a crevasse only a few steps from my camp. It was all so horrible and unbelievable. 

  I could not sleep the rest of the night. My thought were haunted by so many things. If he had taken a different course, he would still be alive. What about my own strange fate, to have to see my friend dead inside a crevasse.

  At 5 am, I left the tent and saw a number of Sherpas pacing up and down the camp. I woke up Sandy and decided it was better to start the recovery before the sun hit the crevasse. We set up a strong anchor and decided that it was necessary for Pemba, our Sirdar, to come down into the crevasse with me, since there were a lot of blocks of ice to move before we could get to Babu's body.

  At the same time, all the other expeditions, began to wake up to the bad news. A group of Indian army climbers started to help us Sandy was in charge of things on the surface of the mountain, whle Pemba and I started to uncover Babu. I first found a boot and his camera. After about 90 minutes of hard work, we managed to secure Babu's body through one of his legs. It was terrifying, both physically and emotionally. The crevasse was no more than 80 cm wide.

  When we came out there were so many people. Jason of Mountain Experience, was helping Sandy. I was completely exhausted but we still had to hoist Babu's body out of the crevasse. With good teamwork that included various Sherpas and members of the Indian team, we pulled Babu's body. Having to see his face torn by the fall was yet another shock. We quickly covered his body with a sleeping bag and managed to make a litter with a piece of canvas and some ropes. There was an aura of solemn respect around the whole thing, and no photos were allowed. We rested for about an hour. We also decided to send all our clients down to base camp. Sandy and I started to help the Sherpas lower Babu. I wanted to vanish.

  It took us 8 hours to bring Babu back to base camp. It was extremely tough, despite the help from some 60 Sherpas. We had to cross so many crevasses of more than 6 meters. At base camp, Babu's body was put inside a mess tent. There, two lamas were sitting in meditation and prayer to help guide his soul.

  The entire base camp was in respectful morning, except for few idiots who wanted to make news out of the Babu's death. Throughout the night, one of the lamas, one of our cooks and Dawa sat in meditation next to Babu. I spent the morning next to him.

  On May 1 at 8:30 am a helicopter took Babu.


expid: EVER01102
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Ben Webster
sponsor: Step Stone Everest Spring 2001
ascent1: 407
countries: Spain, USA
bcdate: 2001-04-09
smtdate: 2001-05-24
smttime: 0649
termdate: 2001-05-27
campsites: BC(09/04),C1(16/04),C2(21/04,6500m),C3(22/05,7400m),C4(22/05,7900m),Smt(24/05)
agency: Mountain Madness
routememo:
  23 May left South Col 9:00 pm by Feagin, Ochoa and 6 Sherpas. Nancy and Sherpas on top 6:49 pm together, Ochoa later. Returned to South Col at 10:28 am by Nancy and 4 Sherpas and 11:24 am by Kile and Lama Jangbu. Webster 2 nights at South Col in support of team. All down (except Webster and Ochoa) to C2 to sleep. Webster sent 2 Sherpas up ahead of team to break trail above Col to South Summit to prevent large number of climbers going up same day as his team. All other teams used this trail (they were Lhakpa Gelu/Ang Gelu and Mingma Tshering). Ochoa sporadically from C4 to top.

  Oxygen: 
    Webster in and above C3 to C4 but used little at C4
    Nancy Feagin in and above C3, in and above C4 to top and down to C3, 
      way down to C2
    Also by Sherpa summiters

  Sherpa Summiters:
    Kile, Chaurikharka, 35 years, 1st 8000er, O2 from C4 to top to C4
    Dawa Nurbu (aka Danuru), Kharikhola, Everest X2, O2 from C4 to top to C4
    Lhakpa Gelu, Kharikhola/Buptsa, Everest X7 
    Mingma Tshering, Beding, Everest X6, K2, Cho Oyu
    Dorje, Phakding, Everest X5, O2 oxygen from C4 to top to C4


  Re: Inaki Ochoa

  Petra Watts, Lhotse Leader - 1/6/01: Ochoa was on Webster's team. He climbed to C3 with Watts Lhotse team and then attended to Webster's smaller Everst team. When he saw there obviously no time for him to summit both Lhotse and Everest because of the long period of bad weather, he chose to summit Everest and did so.

accidents:
  Feagin serious pulmonary edema (went down to Namche Bazar and Khunde Hospital, returned to BC about 10 May completely recovered)


expid: EVER01103
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Tim Rippel
sponsor: Canadian Light Everest Expedition
ascent1: 391
bcdate: 2001-04-06
smtdate: 2001-05-23
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2001-05-27
campsites: BC(06/04,5350m),C1(15/04,6100m),C2(18/04,6475m),C3(13/05,7500m),C4(14/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 at West Cwm
  C3 at Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Going through Icefall at 5:30 am, Rippel almost got killed by suddenly shattering seracs 100m wide 4-5m thick, 4m tall. It completely ruined trail; it was frightening; felt like earthquake beneath the feet. Even at 5:30 am weather was warm about 22 May. Rippel burned out on 14 May and turned around at yellow band; had no Sherpa for himself and carried all his own loads.

  Sampson went down to BC to rest and left BC on 18 May with Pemba Dorje: 19 and 20 May in C2 and 21st to C3, 22nd to C4 and left C4 10:00 pm 22 May for top and go to top just at 7:00 am 23rd. Indian Army already on top at this time, having put in ropes above South Summit with Ben Webster's Sherpas. Returned to C4 10:30 am and on down to C2 at 7:00 pm and slept in C2. BC next day.


expid: EVER01104
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Argentina
leaders: Juan Benegas
sponsor: Independent climber (Asian Trekking)
approach: Lukla->Namche->Khumjung->Dingboche->Lobuche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2001-04-05
smtdate: 2001-05-23
termdate: 2001-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 8500m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(05/04,5400m),C1(13/04,6100m),C2(18/04,6400m),C3(19/04,7300m),C4(22/05,7900m),xxx(23/05,8500m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  May 23:

  Benegas and (late) Mr. Ganner arrived together near South Summit around 09:30 hrs. (They left C4 at 23:30 hours on 22nd). Weather conditions start getting bad - wind, clouds. Benegas told Ganner that he was returning to camp. Ganner told him that he wanted to continue. Benegas got back to his C4 around 12:00 with Sherpa Mingma (Thami). After an hour or two Mingma hurriedly came to his tent and told him that Ganner was dead. Ganner's Sherpa Pincho informed that to BC. That made him worry about Soria Fontan who was trying alone for summit. Because his Sherpa did not show up at the camp, Benegas started asking for help for Fontan and also to know about Ganner. Nobody came to help. His Sherpa and others told him they are very tired. Then he paid $1000 to Pasang Nuru Sherpa to take oxygen to Balcony for Fontan. Fontan told later that nobody came to Balcony with oxgyen. They (Benegas and Fontan) heard that one of the Sherpas of Indian Army expedition had seen Ganner waving hands on 24th. Benegas said all members and Sherpas should have walkie-talkies in order to take rescue operation in time. He also thinks that there must be an arrangement to put up a team of rescue people on the South Col at least during the opening time of ascents that may provide emergency support to climbers as well as to Sherpas.


expid: EVER01105
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Jason Edwards
sponsor: Mountain Experience Everest 2001
ascent1: 408
countries: Peru, USA
bcdate: 2001-04-04
smtdate: 2001-05-24
smttime: 0650
termdate: 2001-05-28
campsites: BC(04/04),C1(12/04,5950m),C2(18/04,6500m),C3(24/04,7500m),C4(23/05,7900m),Smt(24/05)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top  of Icefall
  C2 in West Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face.

  23 May left C4 for top in strong wind at 10:15 pm: Edwards, Henostroza, D. Kelly, Langlois, Rodney, Tucker, Pemba Gyalzen, Dawa Sonam, Arita, Lhakpa Rita, Tenzing, Dorje, Pasang Kitar and Tshering Dorje. Pemba Gyalzen turned back at about 8375m ("below balcony") because feet getting cold. Weather was very cold, perhaps -40 degrees and this cold wind hit battery in Edwards headlamp and froze it, making battery go dead. Tucker and Dawa Sonam turned back at base of Hillary Step. All others reached top between 6:50 and 9:00 am (Edwards was last). All in summit party slept 24th at C4 and in C2 25th. Tucker turned back because his feet were cold and he was moving too slowly; Dawa Sonam went back with him to see he got back to camp safely.


expid: EVER01106
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Chile
leaders: Vivianne Cuq Maggi
sponsor: Chilean Women to Everest
ascent1: 394
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2001-04-07
smtdate: 2001-05-23
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2001-05-28
campsites: BC(07/04,5300m),C1(14/04,6100m),C2(17/04,6400m),C3(23/04,7200m),C4(22/05,7985m),Smt(23/05)
achievment: 1st Chilean women to Everest summit
agency: Ang Nuru Sherpa
routememo:
  C2 used as ABC
  C4 at South Col.

  May 22: Left C4 (5 members and four Sherpas) at 02:00 hours. 
  May 23: Summit at 08:00 hours, spent about 10-15 minutes. Returned to C4 between 12:00-13:00 hours. May 24 down to C2. Weather condition was bad between Balcony and South Summit - very windy.

  Sherpas on summit: Fura Dorje, Kami, Chongba Nurbu and Ongchhu. 
  Sange Sherpa up to C4.

  Oxygen used: members used oxygen from C3. For sleeping in C4 and during the ascent; oxygen used from C4 by Sherpas to summit and back to C4.

  Prieto left BC on May 27 (w/boy friend). Munoz and Soto arrived Kathmandu on May 31. Rest of the members returned to Kathmandu on June 2. The team leaving KTM all together on June 5. V. Cuq may come for Kangchenjunga in next spring.

  All members used high camps except Purto (expedition doctor).

  Sherpa summiters:
    Fura Dorje, Tate, 1961, Everest X3
    Kami (aka Kame), Bagam, Kerung, 1962, Everest X3, Lhotse
    Chongba Nurbu (aka Chhongba Nuru), Tate, 1961, Everest X1
    Ongchhu, Lakhu, Waku VDC, Solukhumbu, Nov-Dec 1968


expid: EVER01107
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Greg Wilson
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Everest 2001 Expedition
ascent1: 412
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2001-04-04
smtdate: 2001-05-25
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2001-05-28
campsites: BC(04/04,5330m),C1(12/04,6035m),C2.ABC(21/04,6550m),C3(02/05,7300m),C4(23/05,8075m),Smt(25/05)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  May 24 all left C4 at about 21:30 hours. May 25 10:30 am summit and stayed about 20 minutes. Returned to C4 at about 17:00 hours. 

  Ershlers reached up to Balcony and returned to C4 due to bad weather.
  Peck reached up to 27,000 ft (8230m) and returned to C4 due to bad weather condition.

  Oxygen: All members began using oxygen at 24,000 ft (7300m), Sherpas at 26,000 ft (8000m) and used to top. While descending members and Sherpas stopped using oxygen at 26,000 ft.

  The team was the last to ascend. They were just behind Erik Weihenmayer (the blind climber). Wilson said he saw a Sherpa and other two climbers on summit coming from north side.

  Peck left KTM on 2nd. Susan Ershler and Waechter leaving on 4th. Rest on June 6th.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Phu Tashi, Pangboche, 28, 1973, Everest X2 before
    Pasang Yila, Pangboche, 1978, 1st 8000er


expid: EVER01108
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Willie Benegas
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Everest Expedition 2001
ascent1: 391
countries: Australia, UK
bcdate: 2001-04-07
smtdate: 2001-05-23
smttime: 0718
termdate: 2001-05-26
campsites: BC(07/04),C1(18/04,6100m),C2(20/04,6400m),C3(21/04,7350m),C4(22/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
agency: High Country Trekking
routememo:
  C1 higher than normal because Icefall higher
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face (higher than last year)
  C4 at South Col.

  South Col 60% cleaner than 1999 in terms of rubbish left. People were conscious of pollution. 

  Summit team left C4 at 9:20 pm 22 May, early in order to get ahead of crowd and so had job of fixing ropes from South Summit to top. Arrived at South Summit 5:30 am and top at 7:18-7:25 am and back to C4 at 11:30 am. Benegas and 2 summit Sherpas to C2 at 4:00 pm; Allan, Sparks and 2 summit Sherpas stayed at C4 because tired and not sure of getting to C2 (did not want to stay in C3). 24th Benegas to BC and Allan and Sparks on 25th. Climb finished. 

  2 in summit party turned back at 8200m (Johnston) and 8300m (Geier) because became too tired from extra effort of climb on exposed rock since little snow on mountain.
   
  Oxygen: on summit push members used it sleeping in C3 and to C4. Members and Sherpas in C4 to top and down to C4 sleeping in C4 again.

  Sherpas: 
    Pemba Rinzi, 25/11/74, Kharikhola, Everest top 5/98, 5/99
    Phanden, Kharikhola, Cho Oyu 5/90, 9/2000
      Went down to C4 with Johnston and then back up and summited
    Pemba Gyalzen, Kharikhola, Everest 5/2000, Cho Oyu 5/99, 9/2000
    Pemba Rinchhen/Rinzi, Kharikhola, 24, 1st 8000er


expid: EVER01109
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Pasquale Scaturro
sponsor: National Federation of the Blind Everest Expedition
ascent1: 411
bcdate: 2001-04-04
smtdate: 2001-05-25
smttime: 0815
termdate: 2001-05-31
campsites: BC(04/04,5350m),C1(11/04,6100m),C2(19/04,6400m),C3(23/04,7300m),C4(23/05,7900m),Smt(25/05)
achievment: 1st blind summiter; Sherman Bull oldest man to date
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in West Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  From C4 for summit bid 8:30 am 24 May: Eric Alexander, Benitez, Brown, Bradford Bull and Sherman Bull, Evans, Gipe, Johnck, Johnson, Mace, Morris, O'Donnell, Scaturro and Weihenmayer. Gipe turned after 250m because no motivation; Scaturro turned back at 8400m with bad bronchial infection and could not breathe and fingers and toes started to freeze. All other members and 8 Sherpas continued. Storm whipped up at 11:00 pm to 2:00 am (snowfall, wind, thunder and lightning) but cleared about 2:00 am halfway between Balcony and South Summit (team scattered about half an hour apart at this point). Spent 1-1/2 hours uncovering old rope and putting in new ones, breaking trail this day. On top Sherman Bull at 8:15 am, Bradford Bull 9:30 am; Morris at 9:35, Alexander, Benitez, Evans, Weihenmayer together at 10:05; Brown and Mace at 10:15; O'Donnell and Johnck at 10:30 am. All to C4 to sleep except Scaturro to C2 with last climbers back to C4 by 4:00 pm with 2 Sherpas back at 6:00 pm because had run out of oxygen and waited for new supply.

  Summit Sherpas: 
    Ang Pasang, Thami, 34, Everest X1 before (with Weihenmayer party)
    Ang Kami, Gumela, Khumbu, 28, 1st 8000er (with Brown)
    Chhuldim/Chuldim Nuru: Phurte, 34, Everest X1 (with Brown)
    Pemba Chhoti, Thami, 27, 1st 8000er
    Lhakpa Tshering/Tshiri, formally Khumjung (now Kathmandu), 27, 1st 8000er
      (with Sherman Bull)
    Phurba Bhote, Makalu VDC, 44, 1st 8000er (with Brad Bull)
    Lhakpa Tshering, Thami (now Mende), 29, (between Brown and Johnck)
    Ang Sona/Sonam, Thami, 25, 1st 8000er (between Brown and Johnck)

  Oxygen: all in summit party (members and Sherpas) used it in C4 (except Sherpas, B. Bull, Johnck, Scaturro, Brown, Morris and Mace); all used it up from C4 to top to C4.


  Weihenmayer - 3 June 2001

  Felt great on top - "just could not believe it." 2 -1/2 months to get there and you work so hard and so long to get there, but just take a day by day, last step was about anti-climax. "Was better with all my teammates there together rather than climbing there alone."

  Next Cartenz Pyramid spring '02 and Elbrus in summer '02 and this last Seven summits (McKinley in '95 was 1st). Very technical terrain and took long time. Got used to jumping over crevasses and had fallen into crevasse in Icefall (leg in it).


  S. Bull - 3 June 2001

  "On top didn't feel rush of emotion and really didn't sink in right away. More emotional when son joined him on top. Psychologically I viewed myself as a regular member of team and pushed age factor on backburner and was aware of supporting role of Erik and getting out his way." Age record not going to last long.

  This his 5th time to try for top, a dream come true to make to the summit and especially with my son wants to do.


  Erik Weihenmayer - May 26, 2003

  A few years after I went blind at the age of 13, I sent away for a Braille book about Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay's ascent of Mount Everest. As I read, I imagined with fear and delight the two pioneers standing only 60 meters below the summit at the base of a 12-meter vertical rock face, later named the Hillary Step, desperately hoping it could be scaled. In 1953, so much of modern mountaineering ws still to be discovered. Archaic clothing and tents made Everest's frigid temperatures lethal. Oxygen bottles were three times heavier than today's. Deadly altitude illnesses, little understood, caused brains to swell and lungs to fill with fluid. Because lightweight radios had yet to be invented, it wasn't until Hillary and Tenzing had descended to within a few hundred meters of advanced base camp and Hillary held up two fingers in victory that the world learned Everest had finally been conquered.

  Over the next 50 years, top climbers from around the world converged on Everst's slopes to attempt their own groundbreaking firsts. In 1978, Reinhold Messner's ascent without bottles oxygen defied the conventional wisdom that time spent without artificial oxygen above 7900 meters - in the "death zone" would cause irreparable brain damage. In 2000, Babu Chhiri Sherpa - the most famous Sherpa - climbed from base camp to the top of the Everest in just under 16 hours.

  In 2001, it was my turn. Although Everest had been mapped from Summit to base camp, I felt like I was stepping into uncharted territory. Most of thought a blind person had no business on the world's tallest peak, especially after eight climbers died in a storm now known as the "1996 disaster." But I had prepared for 16 years, learning to feel my way up mountainous terrain using ice axes and long poles. I finally concluded that when other people's expectation become barriers, the best thing to do is to surmount them.

  Still, there were many challenges I couldn't confront until I went to the mountain, such as the Khumbu Icefall: 600 meters of jumbled up ice boulders - some the size of baseballs, others as big as buildings - constantly collapsing and exploding as the ice expanded and contracted. As I weaved through the labyrinth, I could hear huge ice columns graoning and cracking overhead. My first trip took a miserable 13 hours through a frozen maze, a blind person's worst nightmare. No two steps were alike as I zigzagged over thin snow bridges and lept over deep cracks onto shifting ice boulders. Eventually, with the help of my teams, I made it through the icefall 10 times, working the duration of each trip down to five hours.

  I also worried about how I would function above 7900m, where the brain grows foggy and just taking a step requires monumental effort. I feared that not being able to think, along with not being able to see, would be an overwhelmingly bad combination. However, extreme altitude slowed down my team, so I actually had more time to plant my axe and kick solid steps in the steep snow. On the Hillary Step, I finally felt in my element. Similar to Hillary's own description, I wedged myself in a crack, my gloved hands scanning for holds, my one cramponed boot biting the rock, and my other jammed in a cornice of ice. It was my 40 minutes later, when my brain was barely in charge of my body and I felt like I was pushing through wet concrete mixed with anesthesia that my teammate Chris Morris lowerd his mask, wrapped his arms around me and whispered hoarsely: "Big E, I think you're about to stand on top of the world."

  Many climbers argue that Everest is no longer an epochal achievement and that the conga lines of climbers waiting for a shot at the summit are degrading a once pristine environment. In Hillary's day, teams of top climbers were handpicked by prestigious bodies such as the Royal Geographical Society. Today, an overweight globe-trotter with more money than and a little-known blind guy have equal access. The door to Everest's slopes has been blown wide open, and some critics speak of the death of great adventures.

  But Everest's history is the modern world's history, with all its challenges and abuses - and the unparalleled opportunities for human endeavour. To me, its perfectly fitting that an adventure which began with elite climbers is undertaken by a blind guy 50 years later. We cannot step back and close the mountain, for retreat would annihilate the modern age's greatest gift to humanity: the freedom of an individual to choose his path.


expid: EVER01110
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Mike Trueman
sponsor: Arun Treks Everest 'Anything is Possible' Expedition 2001
ascent1: 393
countries: Canada, Turkey, UK
bcdate: 2001-04-01
smtdate: 2001-05-23
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2001-05-26
campsites: BC(01/04),C1(16/04,5800m),C2(17/04,6400m),C3(26/04,7300m),C4(22/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  C1 higher than usual because crevasse lower
  C2 at normal site
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Only people to C3 were Giorgio and Findik, who were now climbing together. 22 May Giorgio and Findik left C4 at 9:30 pm for summit with Nima Gombu and Lhakpa Temba. Reached top Lhakpa and Findik 12:00 noon; Nima Gombu and Giorgio spent 2 hours on Hillary Step making once a lone route for Brad Washburn/National Geographic Society project so got to top at about 8:00 am - Lhakpa and Findik well before Nima and Giorgio at C4 that night and down to C2 and in C4 at night; 

  Oxygen: Giorgio at C4; above C4 oxygen system failed but got it working couple of hours at most but not working at time he reached summit; returning to C4 worked again for couple of hours and during night of C4; both summit Sherpas in C4 and to top and return and in C4 again. 

  Sherpas:
    Nima Gombu, Beding, Everest X6
    Lhakpa Temba, Lokhim, Solukhumbu, 27, 1st 8000er 

  This was a very badly organized expedition with only 2 members who did any real climbing.

  Guller was suppose to be expedition's manager but went to C2 on 15 April, stayed there until 25 April and then down to BC and stayed there, drinking with Trueman, never sent food supplies to Giorgio in C2.

  Nelson took 12 hours to climb up through Icefall; left Nepal about 22 April.

  Trueman went to C2 once with Guller and down to BC with him, then stayed at BC drinking with Guller and left expedition about 20-21 May.


expid: EVER01111
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Ramesh Man Dongol
sponsor: Kathmandu Metropolis Everest Expedition 2001
approach: Phaplu->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2001-04-12
smtdate: 2001-04-18
termdate: 2001-04-24
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to high altitude sickness of leader
campsites: BC(12/04,5300m),C1(20/04,6100m),C2(22/04,6700m),C3(18/04,7300m),xxx.Sherpas(18/04,7300m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at camps were already established when they reached the BC.
  C3 at altitudes according to Shrestha established but not used
  High point at little above C2 by as member.


  April 17 - Shrestha went upto C1 deposited/supplies and back to BC.
             Dangol returned from midway due to slow climbing.
  April 18 - Both members tried for C1 but Dangol could not make due to 
             problem with boots. Hired Sherpas reached C3 (7300m).
  April 20 - Both reached C1. Spent two nights.
  April 22 - C2 in evening Dongal started feeling weak used oxygen to 
             sleep. Babu Chiri and other Sherpas were there.
             Shrestha reached 6750m (just above C2) his high-point.
  April 23 - In the morning Dangol could not stand - lost balance like a 
             drunken person. Babu decided to send him back. All came down
             to BC. He was treated by Indian Army Expedition Doctor. He 
             was also having cough.
  April 24 - Dangol was evacuated by helicopter to KTM taken straight to 
             CEWIC and then to his home.
  April 25 - Shrestha left BC. Arrived KTM on 28 from Lukla. He was 
             thinking to return to BC with Dangol.
  April 27 - Babu Chiri called Dangol from BC and asked about health
             condition. Dangol not seeing possibility of recovery from 
             sickness (weakness and cough) within few days told Babu to 
             talking, Babu told him that he may also not attempt the summit.
  April 28 - Shrestha returned to KTM
  April 29 - Babu fell in crevasse near C2.

  Dangol said there was not enough time for acclimatization as climbing was too fast for him. At the time of meeting (May 9) he was still having cough and still seemed weak.

  Babu's target for summit was the full-moon day, May 7 Buddha's Anniversary day. Besides Babu, Nima Dorje and Dawa Sherpa, Shrestha told that Pasang Sherpa working with them while climbing.

  Also met Pasang Narbu Sherpa on June 25 who was with American expedition of Brant Didden and checked camp dates with him.

  Babu Chiri was hired by American team, but climbed also with Dangol team.


expid: EVER01112
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Peter Ganner
sponsor: Independent climber
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2001-04-05
smtdate: 2001-05-23
campsites: BC(05/04,5400m),C1(13/04,6100m),C2(18/04,6400m),C3(19/04,7300m),C4(22/05,7900m),xxx(23/05,8500m)
accidents: Ganner died in fall
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Ganner left C4 at about 23:40 hours on May 23. According to Juan Benegas, another independent climber (who was climbing together with Ganner) that near South Summit suddenly weather became bad - clouds and wind. Benegas told Ganner that he will be going back and not going for summit. Ganner told Benegas that he will continue. Benegas at his C4 tent later was told by his Sherpa that Ganner slipped down and was dead as Ganner's Sherpa told him. Since the Sherpa said he was dead, no attempt was made for search.

  According to Pasang Gelu Sherpa of Indian Army Expedition: while returning from summit on May 24, he saw Ganner moving his hand. That was between 07:00-08:00 hours. Pasang Gelu went down to Ganner to help him leaving rucksack on the ridge. Gelu picked up a rope and fixed it on a snow bar near main fixed rope. When got to Ganner he was moving his body, hands were without gloves. Fingers were bent towards cheeks, nose and lips were frostbitten. Apparently there was not my external injury. He could not speak - just making some sound. Pasang Gelu lifted him from the ground and made him sit and tied the rope onto Ganner's harness. About 20 minutes he had reached Ganner the Austrian became motionless and died. Pasang Gelu said he was shocked, stunned and felt dizzy. Felt hungry, thirsty. Somehow he climbed up to the place where he left his rucksack. He asked somebody passing him to give him something to eat and he was given a chocolate. Pasang Gelu managed to climb down to his expedition's camp.

  The place where Ganner was is about 150 to 200m down the ridge. Pasang Gelu did not see any oxygen bottle with Ganner or around his place. His rucksack was away from Ganner about 15-20m, above Ganner.

  Many people saw him with Ganner but nobody bothered to join him. It was really sad about the attitude or other climbers.

  Gelu met Mrs. Ganner at Kathmandu guest house on June 1, the day Gelu returned to Kathmandu. 

  According to Pasang Gelu the place where he found Ganner was not difficult to reach and not far from ridge.


  To Mrs. Ganner from Elizabeth Hawley (comments of Phinzo Sherpa)

  Today I met the Sherpa who had been with Mr. Ganner, Phinzo Sherpa, who is an experienced climber, having been to the summit of Everest in 2000. He said that when they had climbed to a point just below the South Summit, the weather had become bad -- clouds were all around them, it was very windy and snow was being blown into their faces. It was now 2:30-3:00 pm, and they discussed the fact that it would take at least two more hours to reach the summit -- and then they would still have to descend all the way to Camp 4. Mr Ganner's oxygen bottle was now empty, so Phinzo gave Mr. Ganner his own bottle to replace it, but Mr. Ganner was not weak.

  Because of the bad weather and the lack of daylight time left, Mr. Ganner said they should go down. (In addition to the weather and the time, there now was the fact that they had only one useable oxygen bottle left). They sat down to the rest briefly, Mr. Ganner about 3 meters below Phinzo. Phinzo covered his head and face to protect them from the strong cold wind. Then he heard a noise like that of a crampon scraping on a rock, and when he looked around, he could not see Mr. Ganner anywhere in the cloudy, snow-filled air driven by wind. So he went down to Camp 4 alone and saw no sign of Mr. Ganner on the way. He made no attempt to go to the summit that day or any day that season.

  When he reached Camp 4, he met Juan Benegas and reported to him about Mr.  Ganner's disappearance. He was sure that Mr. Ganner had fallen down the very steep, long East Face of Everest into Tibet and died. Because of his report, no one went up to look for Mr. Ganner. (In any case, I myself know that a search would have been very difficult under those bad weather conditions and with sunset approaching - EAH.)


