# exped

expid: EVER22116
peakid: EVER
year: 2022
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Hedayet Ali
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks (SST) Everest Expedition 2022
countries: Ecuador, Finland, India, Ireland, Japan, Mexico, Mongolia, Nepal, Oman, Switzerland, UAE, UK
smtdate: 2022-05-12
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(12,14,16,19-20/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Report from Lucy Westlake:

  Approach: Pangboche

  BC  26/04  5350m
  C1  27/04  6000m
  C2  28/04  6440m
  C3  08/05  7100m
  C4  11/05  7900m
  Smt 12/05  by Westlake, Mingma Chhiring Sherpa at 5:30 am.

  Team intended to summit on 10/05 hence they already stayed at C3 on the 08/05. However, the weather forecast was not correct, and they descended to C2 for one night. They ascended again on 10/05.

  Mingma and Westlake set out at 9 pm on 11/05. The weather was good and there a lot of people on the line. Straightforward climb. They spent about 25 minutes on the summitn an descended to C2 where they arrived at about 1 pm. On 13/05 back to BC. 
  Left BC on 13/05 by heli.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Westlake and Mingma.


expid: EVER22117
peakid: EVER
year: 2022
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Arnold Coster
sponsor: Arnold Coster Everest Expedition 2022
countries: Ireland, Nepal, S Korea, UK, Vietnam
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Ever BC
bcdate: 2022-04-15
smtdate: 2022-05-15
termdate: 2022-05-18
campsites: BC(15/04,5350m,C1(29/04,6000m),C2(30/04,6440m),C3(13/05,7100m),C4(14/05,7900m),Smt(15-16/05)
achievment: Haylock was hit by a rock on the Lhotse Face
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Approach: Pangboche, Lobuche

  BC  15/04  5350m
  C1  29/04  5800m
  C2  30/04  6440m
  C3  13/05  7100m
  C4  14/05  7900m
  Smt 15/05  by Shrestha and Ang Tshering [and Lakpa Sherpa] at 4:45 am 
  Smt 16/05  by Thanh Nha, Rima Sherpa and Sonam Sherpa at 3:30 am; 
             Ruane and Dawa Chhiri at 5:30 am; Haylock and Nima Sherpa at 9:30 am.

  15/05 summit team left C4 at 9 pm on 14/05. They spent about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to C2 where they arrived at 6 pm.

  16/05 summit team left C4 at 8 pm. Straightforward climb and descended to C2, where they arrived at about 4 pm. Haylock and Nima spent the night at the South Col. On 17/05, when they descended the Lhotse Face Haylock was hit by a rock. He was unconscious for a few minutes but managed to reach C2 on his own. He spent the night at C2 and walked to BC on 18/05.

  Other members:

  Starreveld reached the Balcony during the summit push at about 8400m. He did not feel strong enough and returned to the South Col where he spent the night and descended with the summiteers on 16/05 to C2.

  Pleumeekers reached 6600m on 30/04. She was too slow on the mountain and was too exhausted. She was helicoptered from C2 on 01/05 as she was too tired to go back down. The expedition leader decided that she was not strong enough to climb the mountain. She left BC shortly after.

  Sung Il-Nam reached C2. He was too tired and exhausted to continue and was helicoptered from C2. He went to hospital in Kathmandu and was diagnosed with severe AMS. He returned to BC on 10/05. On 13/05 he ascended to C1 and C2 and 14/05, but decided he was still too weak and walked back to BC on 15/05.

  Bhandari only reached BC, but had a medical problem and left the expedition early.

  Coster went to C2. He never intended to summit.

  Team left BC on 18/05 by heli.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from 6600m to top to 6600m (bottom of Lhotse face) by members
    From C3 to top to C3 by Sherpas.


  Pramod Shrestha was a client of Ang Tshering Lama on the SST permit.


  Pramod Shrestha and Ang Tshering Lama were part of Coster’s expedition, but had their own schedule:

  A. Arrived at BC on 18 April
  B. Rotation C1 on 27 April, C2 on 28 April
  C. Summit climb:
     C2 on 11 May
     C3 on 12 May
     C4 on 13 May
  D  Summit push on 14th May at 9 pm, reached the summit on 15 May at 4:45 am 
     with Ang Tshering Lama and Lakpa Sherpa. Stayed about 45 min, descended to C2.
  E  Left BC via heli on 17 May to Lukla.

  Oxygen: Used from C3 to smt to C3.


expid: EVER22118
peakid: EVER
year: 2022
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Luis Carcavilla
sponsor: Spanish Everest Expedition 2022
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Lobuje->Ever BC
bcdate: 2022-05-13
smtdate: 2022-05-20
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2022-05-22
campsites: BC(13/05,5350m),C2(17/05,6440m),C3(18/05,7100m),C4(19/05,7900m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Approach: Pangboche, Lobuche

  BC  13/05  5350m
  C2  17/05  6440m
  C3  18/05  7100m
  C4  19/05  7900m
  Smt 20/05  by Carcavilla, Ming Temba (Mikhel) Sherpa at 6 am.

  Carcavilla was on Dhaulagiri I with Carlos Soria and was well acclimatised, hence he did not need any rotations on Everest. He decided on the spur of the moment to climb and flew to BC on 13/05.

  Team left C4 at 9:30 pm on 19/05. Straightforward climb. They were almost alone on the route and just encountered a few people around the Hillary Step. They stayed about 10 minutes on the summit as it was very cold and windy. They descended to C2 where they arrived at 4 pm. On 21/05 back to BC.

  Left BC on 22/05 by heli.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C4 to top to C4 by Carcavilla
    Taken and used from C2 to top to C2 by Mikhel.


expid: EVER22119
peakid: EVER
year: 2022
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Uruguay
leaders: Vanessa Estol Garay
sponsor: 14 Peaks Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2022
smtdate: 2022-05-12
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-221-18)
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(12,14-15,21/05)
agency: 14 Peaks Expedition
countries:
  Canada, China, El Salvador, Germany, India, Iran, Lithuania, Malaysia, Mexico, Russia, UK, Ukraine, USA, Venezuela

routememo:
  Report from Afsaneh Hesami Fard:

  Approach: Lobuche

  BC  20/04  5350m
  C1  30/04  6000m
  C2  01/05  6440m
  C3  12/05  7100m
  C4  13/05  7900m
  Smt 14/05  by Hesami Fard, Jangbu Sherpa at 7:50 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 8 pm on 13/05. Route was busy. Straightforward climb. They spent about 13 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 11 am. On 15/05 to BC. Left BC on 17/05 by heli to Lukla.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C4 by Sherpa and member.


  Report from Ravechandra Tharumalingam:

  Approach: Island Peak

  BC  14/04  5350m
  C1  28/04  5800m
  C2  29/04  6440m
  C3  10/05  7100m
  C4  11/05  7900m
  Smt 12/05  by Tharumalingam, Elangovan, Mingma Tendi, Phurba Sherpa at 9:17 am
  Smt 15/05  by Sidharth and Sherpa at 7 am.

  Sidharth was sick after Island Peak and lagged behind the rotation as he had gone back to Kathmandu to recover. Hence, he summited at a later date.

  12/05 summit team left C4 at 7:30 pm on 11/05. By the time they reached the vertical section there was a big queue already. Bit of traffic at Hillary Step. Team spent about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to C4 where they arrived at about 3:30 pm.

  Sidharth left C4 at 7:30 pm on 14/05. Straightforward climb. He descended to C2 after the summit and then to BC on 16/05.

  Everyone back down at BC on 16/05. Left BC on 17/05 by heli.

  Sherpas: 3

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C2 to top to C2 by members
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Sherpas.


  Report from David Goettler:

  Approach: Mera Peak, Amphu Laptsa

  BC  26/04  5350m
  C2  28/04  6440m
  C3  06/05  7100m
  C4  20/05  7900m
  Smt 21/05  by Goettler at 9:50 am.

  Goettler left C4 at 9:30 pm on 20/05. Weather and conditions were perfect. He did not see any other person between the South Summit and the summit. He descended to C4 where he arrived at 4 pm. He rested there for a few hours and continued to C3 where he arrived at 10:40 pm. On 22/05 he descended to BC.

  Goettler spent a total of 11 nights at BC. The rest of the time he spent in Pheriche. He was completely autonomous on his expedition, however, he used the fixed ropes.

  Left BC pn 23/05 by trekking to Pheriche and heli to Kathmandu.

  Oxygen: not taken, not used


expid: EVER22120
peakid: EVER
year: 2022
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Nirmal Purja
sponsor: Elite Exped Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2022
smtdate: 2022-05-15
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-221-02)
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(15,27/05)
agency: Elite Exped
countries:
  Australia, Austria, Brazil, Bulgaria, Ecuador, France, Mexico, Poland, Qatar, S Africa, Saudi Arabia, Sweden, UK

routememo:
  Report from Mario Villagran Avendano:

  BC  23/04  5350m
  C1  27/04  6000m
  C2  28/04  6440m
  C3  12/05  7100m
  C4  13/05  7900m

  EVER Smt on 15/05 by Villagran, Pem Chhiri at 8 am; Azdreeva, Pasang Dendi 
    at 6 am, Kloos and Lakpa [Dendi] Sherpa at 5:30 am. Note: Asdreeva states that 
    her summit time was 5:30 am.

  LHOT Smt on 16/05 by Azdreeva, Pasang Dendi at 9 am; Kloos and Lakpa [Dendi] 
    Sherpa and another Lakpa at 8 am.

  Azdreeva and Pasang Dendi descended to C4 after Everest summit and left South Col at 3:30 am. They stopped at Lhotse C4 and left at 4:30 am. After the summit they descended to C2. On 17/05 down to BC.

  Kloos and Lakpa Sherpa descended to C4 after Everest summit at 10:30 am. They left the South Col at 2 am and ascended Lhotse. After the summit they descended to C2. On 17/05 descended to BC.

  Left BC on 17/05 by heli.

  EVER Oxygen: taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Villagran
  		     taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members
  LHOT Oxygen: taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Kloos


  Report from Sabrina Filzmoser:

  BC  01/04  5350m
  C1  25/04  6000m
  C2  26/04  6440m
  C3  29/04  7100m
  C4  14/05  7900m
  Smt 15/05  by Filzmoser, Pemba Dorjee (Pangboche) at 6:25 am.

  Filzmoser cycled from Digha at the West Bengal Sea to Biratnaghar and Bupsa which was 1100km. She started from Digha on 04/03 and reached Birathnaghar 08/03 and Bupsa on 15/03 (1081km and 9900m of altitude). She was with Laxmi and Harka and when they reached Bupsa, she gave the pair her bike and trekked to EBC. She trekked via Surke, Jorsalle and reached BC on 23/03. She spent one week at Gorak Shep and then moved to EBC on 01/04.

  Filzmoser was intending to summit without oxygen. She started her summit rotation on 11/05 and went directly to C2. She stayed there on 12/05 and continued to C3 on 13/05. On 14/05 she ascended to C4 and was very tired. She could not feel her toes and decided to put on oxygen and she could feel its effects immediately. She could feel her toes and felt so much better. She decided to go for the summit with O2 and left C4 at 9:30 pm.

  From the South Summit she followed in the footstep of Mingma Gyalje [Imagine Nepal] who was going up without O2. She spent 20 minutes on the summit, descended to C4 where she rested for 2 hours and continued to C2 where she arrived at 3 pm. On 17/05 to BC. Left BC on 18/05 by heli.

  Oxygen: taken and used from C4 to top to C3 by Filzmoser.


  Report from Luke Hepworth:

  BC  13/05  5350m
  C1  16/05  6000m
  C2  17/05  6440m
  HPt 18/05  6900m just below C3 by Hepworth and Tenji Sherpa.

  Hepworth reached his high point during his first rotation. He descended to BC on the same day and helicoptered back to Kathmandu due to Khumbu cough on the same day. He stayed in the Mariott for three days and returned to BC by helicopter on 21/05.

  On 23/05, he ascended to C2 and still did not feel well. He was still coughing and it took him 14 hours to reach C2. On 24/05 the rest of the team continued to C3, but Hepworth decided to call it a day as he had no sleep and was still ill with a lot of coughing. In consultation with the doctor, Nims and Mingma David, he was evacuated from C2 on 25/05 by heli and was taken directly to Hams hospital. He spent a day at the hospital for checkups.

  Oxygen: taken and used during the night at C2 by Hepworth.


  Report from Steve Davis:

  When did you leave C4 for the summit?
    14 May at around 9:15 pm (local time)
  What date and time did you summit?
    15 May at 6:.35 am (local time)
  Name of your Sherpa:
    Mingma David Sherpa
  Which camp did you return after the summit?
    C2 on 15 May and Base Camp on 16 May on foot
  When did you leave BC and did you walk or take a helicopter?
    Helicopter to KTM on 17 May


expid: EVER22121
peakid: EVER
year: 2022
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Sunil Nataraj
sponsor: 8K Expeditions Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2022
countries: Belarus, Canada, China, France, Iran, Malaysia, Mexico, Mongolia, Nepal, Norway, Russia, USA
smtdate: 2022-05-14
smttime: 0500
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-221-03)
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(14-16,22,24/05)
agency: 8K Expeditions
routememo:
  Report from Yorick Vion:

  Approach: EBC trail

  BC  21/04  5350m
  C1  24/04  6076m
  C2  25/04  6500m
  C3  12/05  7100m 
  C4  13/05  7906m

  EVER Smt on 14/05 by Yorick Vion and Tsering Sherpa at 5 am.
  LHOT Smt on 15/05 by Yorick Vion and Guru Gengen Sherpa at 6 am.

  Acclimatization:

  24/04: first sleep at C1
  25/04: first sleep at C2
  26/04: touched C3 then back to sleep at C2
  27/04: C2 to BC.

  Spent a week alone in BC.

  Summit schedule: 

  11/05: BC to C2
  12/05: C2 to C3
  13/05: C3 to C4. Started at 19:30 from C4 for the top. 

  14/05: summit of Everest reached at 4:30-5 am with Tsering Sherpa, stayed between 30-45 min. Back to C4 in the morning at 8 am. Stayed there one hour. Then went down at 7700m to Lhotse advanced camp.

  15/05: started at 2 am, summit of Lhotse reached with Guru Gengen Sherpa at 6 am, stayed on top half an hour. Back to C4 with his Sherpa, then to C2 ushering down a very tired client of the agency (Aziz Abdileilidaghi).

  16/05: C2 to BC
  17/05: left BC.

  Nadine-Laborde left the expedition prior to the end.

  Oxygen:
    EVER: C4 to summit to C4, with sleeping at C4 on the day before the summit.
    LHOT: advanced 7700m camp to summit back to 7700m.

  Other Everest members:

  Marie Nadine Laborde: Climbed Lobuche East, then on the acclimatization day to C1, after beginning to climb a bit in the Icefall, she turned around and left the expedition.

  Thillaimuthu Nagarajan: High point at Balcony according to Vion.

  Other Lhotse members:

  Sunil Koratagere Nataraj: Climbed Everest but didn’t attempt Lhotse.

  Thillaimuthu Nagarajan: Summited Lhotse with Yorick Vion (started Lhotse at 7 pm on the 14 May); reached Balcony on Everest as a high point.

  Jose Armando Navarrete Ulloa: Climbed Everest, but didn’t try Lhotse. Very tired on the way down, fell about 15m in the Yellow Band, stopped by the fixed rope.

  Tanya Louise Perret: Came up to a high point below the narrow/climbing section in the couloir (<8300m).

  Aziz Abdileilidaghi: Climbed Everest, didn’t go to Lhotse.


  Report from Kristin Harila:

  BC  17/05  5350m
  C2  19/05  6400m
  C3  20/05  7200m
  C4  21/05  7700m

  EVER Smt 2/05 by Harila, Pasdawa, Dawa (uncle of Lhakpa who owns of 8K) at 8:45 am

  Team left C4 at 1:40 am. Weather was not so good and it was very windy. There was only one other team on the mountain due to the high winds. They spent 32 minutes on the summit and started their descent to C4 at 9:17 am. They reached C4 at 11:15 am, rested there for 30 minutes and left again for the Lhotse summit push at 11:45 am. It was still windy. 

  LHOT Smt 22/05 by Harila, Pasdawa, Dawa at 5:43 pm

  Team spent about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to BC where they arrived at 5:30 am on 23/05.

  Left BC on 23/05 by heli to Dingboche (the plan was to fly to Makalu BC, but the weather was too bad so the heli landed in Dingboche where they stayed for one day). On 24/05 they took a helicopter to Makalu ABC.

  Oxygen: C2 to top Everest/Lhotse to C2 by Harila, from C4 to tops to C4 by Sherpas.


expid: EVER22122
peakid: EVER
year: 2022
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Nga Tenji Sherpa
sponsor: Pioneer Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2022
countries: Canada, India, USA
smtdate: 2022-05-14
smttime: 0015
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-221-04)
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(14,16,20-22/05)
agency: Pioneer Adventure
routememo:
  Report from Narender Singh Yadav:

  Approach: Lukla, Ever BC by heli

  BC  22/05
  C2  23/05  touched C3 and back to C2
  C3  25/05
  C4  26/05
  Smt 27/05  by Singh, Pemba Rita (Rolwaling) and Chatur Man Rai.

  The summit push of Singh started from C4 with two Sherpas at 9:30 pm on 26 May; the team reached summit at 05:05 am of 27 May. They stayed on the summit for about an hour and descended C4 where they reached at 9 am. They continued to C2 and arrived there at 1 pm. They spent night at C2 and next day 28 May went down to BC. There was nobody on the summit.

  The summit time weather was perfect with 0% wind. While descending the team crossed Nim’s team coming up at Hillary Step. Left BC on 29 May.

  Oxygen: C3-summit-C3 by Singh, by Sherpa C4-Summit-C4 by Sherpas.

  Record: BC-Summit-BC in 6 days.

  Note: Singh did acclimatization summiting Bhagirathi (6512m) in Uttarakhand, India in March/April.


expid: EVER22124
peakid: EVER
year: 2022
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Mingma Gyalje Sherpa
sponsor: Imagine Nepal Everest Expedition 2022
countries: Australia, China, Pakistan, Portugal, Russia, Thailand
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Lobuje->Ever BC
bcdate: 2022-04-19
smtdate: 2022-05-16
smttime: 0405
termdate: 2022-05-18
campsites: BC(19/04,5350m),C1(26/4,6000m),C2(27/04,6440m),C3(28/04,7300m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(16,21/05)
agency: Imagine Nepal
routememo:
  Approach: Pangboche, Lobuche, Ever BC

  BC  19/04  5350m
  C1  26/04  6000m
  C2  27/04  6440m
  C3  28/05  7300m
  C4  15/05  7900m
  Smt 16/05  by Shurysheva and Dawa Tenzing at 4:22 am, Longman and Furtemba Sherpa
             at 8:30 am, Ramkumar Shrestha with Ngima Nuru at 4:05 am, Suraj
             Paudyal with Padawa at 4:20 am, and other members.
  Smt 21/05  by Ngima Nuru (2nd time) and Padawa (2nd time) with Rajendra Takuri, 
             Tenjin Sakala Bhote at 5:10 am.

  16/05 summit team left C4 at 8:30 pm on 15/05. The route was quite busy and it was blowing hard when they were on the Balcony, but not soo cold. Straightforward climb. They spent about 30 mins on the summit and descended to C4. On 17/05 to C2 and 18/05 to BC.

  Ngima Nuru and Padawa rested one day at BC and went back up together with Rajendra Takuri and Tenjin Sakala Bhote for a second summit push. They went with Rajendra Takuri who was the expedition cook and Tenjin Sakala Bhote, who had never climbed Everest. They left BC for C2 on 19/05 and went directly to C4 on 20/05. On 20/05, they left C4 at 10 pm and summited at 5:10 am. Returned to C2 at 5 pm.

  Team left BC on 18/05 by heli (members).

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C3 to summit to C3, 
    Mingma G did NOT use supplemental oxygen.


  Report from Marina Cortes:

  Approach: Pangboche

  BC  19/04  5350m
  C1  26/04  5800m
  C2  27/04  6440m
  C3  28/04  7300m
  HPt 28/04  7300m  by Cortes, Nima Nuru

  On 29/04 Cortes was ready to go to the South Col. but Nima Nuru said that they should go back down to C2 as they were not enough tents on the South Col. They descended to C2 where they spent the night. At 7:30 am on 29/04, Nima Nuru told Cortes that he was going back to BC as he was tired. Cortes stayed at C2 and some other Sherpa came up to replace Nima Nuru. Jit Bahadur was assigned to go back to C3 with Cortes on 30/04.

  On 30/04, they set out for C3, but she met a western guide who told her that bad weather was coming. She still continued for 4 hours, but got into a white out. There were avalanches and they turned around and descended to C2. She stayed at C2 for another few days and tried to get back to C3, but the weather was too bad.

  On 02/05 she returned to BC. Mingma G came from Kangchenjunga and said he was going to go to the summit with her and Jit Bahadur. Mingma G went back to Kangchenjunga and said he would be back on 08/05. On 04/05, Cortes found out that her 91-year-old dad was seriously ill, which threw her and she wanted to get back to Kathmandu. On 08/05 she flew to Kathmandu, where her husband and children were. In the meantime, her father was better, and Mingma G had arrived back at EBC.

  On 10/05, Cortes flew back to EBC, and her plan was to summit on 21/05 as her weather forecast was good for that day. She was going to join Mingma G on his summit push, but for another acclimatization rotation to C4. On 12/05 at 2 am, the team left BC for C2, but Cortes was lagging a bit behind Mingma G and Jit Bahadur. They reached C1 and Cortes wanted to lie down for 30 minutes due to a medical condition she has (seizure in case of lack of sleep). Jit Bahadur and Cortes stayed at C1. Cortes felt very bad and had no voice, but needed a helicopter. She got her sat phone and called for a helicopter. She was evacuated on 13/05. Heli stopped at BC and then went to Pheriche and Lukla.

  Cortes went to the hospital in Lukla and she was visited by a Global Rescue representative.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


expid: EVER22126
peakid: EVER
year: 2022
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Hemant Leuva
sponsor: Satori Adventures Everest Expedition 2022
countries: China, Italy, USA
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Lobuje->Ever BC
bcdate: 2022-04-02
smtdate: 2022-05-12
smttime: 0935
termdate: 2022-05-17
campsites: BC(02/04,5350m),C1(24/04,5800m),C2(25/04,6450m),C3(26/04,7000m),C4(12/05,7950m),Smt(12-13/05)
achievment: Lanfri is the first Italian amputee to summit (prosthetic legs).
agency: Satori Adventures
routememo:
  Report from Luca Montanari:

  Approach: Phakding, Namche, Debuche, Dingboche, Lobuche East (smt 08/04), EBC

  BC  02/04  5350m
  C1  24/04  5800m
  C2  25/04  6450m
  C3  26/04  7000m
  C4  12/05  S.Col
  Smt 13/05  by Montanari, Lanfri, Mingma Temba, Lakpa Tasi and Tendi

  The team left C4 at 7:30 pm on 12 May and reached summit at 5:40 am on 13 May. They stayed on summit about 20 minutes and back to C4 between 12-1 pm. Next day 14 May they went down to C2 and the following day to BC. There were two climbers, a client with Sherpa, on the summit when they arrived there. Left BC on 17 May by heli.

  Oxygen: members from C3, Sherpas from C4.


expid: EVER22127
peakid: EVER
year: 2022
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Vietnam
leaders: Thanh-Nhien Phan
sponsor: Snowy Horizon Everest Expedition 2022
countries: Belgium, Canada, Iran, Iraq, UK
smtdate: 2022-05-12
smttime: 0500
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(12-15,17/05)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  Report from Gabriel Filippi:

  BC  30/03  5350m
  C1  13/04  6000m
  C2  14/04  6500m
  C3  08/05  7200m
  C4  11/05  7950m
  Smt 12/05  by Gabriel Filippi, Stephane Rousseau,  Lhakpa Nuru, Chhewang Lama
             at 5 am, Dany Morin and Namgyal Sherpa at 6 am.

  Team left C4 on 11/05 at 7 pm. Clear sky, light wind until South Summit where wind became strong with gusts estimated at 80km/hr. Descended to C2 at 8 pm.

  Previous summit attempt on 09/05, retreated from C3 to C2 due to high winds.

  Walked out from BC on 14/05.

  Oxygen:
    C3 (7200m) to summit and back C3 for members
    8000m to summit to 8000m for Sherpas (slso, during their 2 carries from 
      C2 to C4, they used oxygen from C3 to C4 to C3)


expid: EVER22128
peakid: EVER
year: 2022
route1: S Col-SE Rigde
nation: India
leaders: Jay Kohlatkar
sponsor: Peak Promotion Eco-Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2022
countries: USA
smtdate: 2022-05-12
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(12,21/05)
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  Report from Baljeet Kaur:

  BC  17/05  5350m
  C2  18/05  6400m
  C3  19/05  7200m
  C4  20/05  7700m

  EVER Smt 21/05 by Baljeet Kaur and Sherpa at 4:30 am.
  LHOT Smt 22/05 by Baljeet Kaur and Sherpa at 5:50 am.

  Oxygen: Kaur and Mingma Sherpa from C3.


expid: EVER22129
peakid: EVER
year: 2022
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Kishor Adhikari
sponsor: Nepali Army Cleaning & Climbing Expedition 2022
bcdate: 2022-04-16
smtdate: 2022-05-12
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2022-05-26
campsites: BC(16/04,5300m),C1(21/04,6100m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(08/05,7100m),C4(11/05,7900m),Smt(12/05)
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  Report from Abiral Rai:

  BC  16/04  5300m
  C1  21/04  6100m
  C2  25/04  6400m
  C3  08/05  7100m
  C4  11/05  7900m
  Smt 12/05  by 2 members and 3 hired at 8:39 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 6 pm on 11/05, summited at 8:39 am, stayed 35 minutes, then descended to C2 arriving at 9 pm. Weather was clear.

  Team left BC on 26/05.

  Oxygen: From C3 to smt to C3.

  There were 9 altogether in this army expedition; two of them sumitted Everest with me, the rest stayed at BC. One of them who was supposed to climb got sick with hypothermia.


expid: EVER22130
peakid: EVER
year: 2022
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Kevin Farebrother
sponsor: Dream Himalaya Everest Expedition 2022
countries: Denmark, France, India, USA
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Lobuje->Ever BC
bcdate: 2022-04-16
smtdate: 2022-05-15
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2022-05-18
campsites: BC(16/04,5350m),C1(6000m),C2(30/04,6440m),C3(13/05,7100m),C4(14/05,7900m),Smt(15-16/05)
agency: Dream Himalaya Adventures
routememo:
  Report from Kevin Farebrother:

  Approach: Pangboche, Lobuche

  BC  16/04  5350m
  C1   --    6000m
  C2  30/04  6440m
  C3  13/05  7100m
  C4  14/05  7900m
  Smt 15/05  by Farebrother, Thomas, Tendi Sherpa, Furi Sherpa, Dawa Sambu 
             Sherpa Lama at 8:30 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 10 pm on 14/05. Straightforward climb. Team spent about 20 mins on the summit. About 10 other people up there. They descended to C4 where they arrived at 4 pm.

  On 16/05 team apart from Dawa Lama descended to C2 where they spent another night and descended to BC on 17/05. Dawa Lama desceded to C2 on 15/05 and BC on 16/05.

  Left BC on 18/05 trekking to Pheriche.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members
    From C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.


  Padamati and Thigulla were clients of Transcend Advenvture on Dream Himalaya permit.

  Alex Moller and Matthew Bond were clients of Ryan Waters. Both were not strong enough to do the climb.


expid: EVER22131
peakid: EVER
year: 2022
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Hungary
leaders: Emil Neszmelyi
sponsor: Climbalaya Everest Expedition 2022
countries: Austria, Japan, Nepal, Sweden
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Lobuje->Ever BC
bcdate: 2022-04-13
smtdate: 2022-05-13
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2022-05-16
campsites: BC(13/04,5350m),C1(18/04,6000m),C2(27/04,6440m),C3(08/05,7100m),C4(12/05,7900m),Smt(13/05)
agency: Climbalaya (Dream Himalaya pmt)
routememo:
  BC  13/04  5350m  (17/04 Ramberg)
  C1  18/04  6000m  (25/04 Ramberg)
  C2  27/04  6440m  (27/04 Ramberg)
  C3  08/05  7100m
  C4  12/05  7900m
  Smt 13/05  by Neszmelyi (8:30 am), Osterbauer (7:30 am), Richard Ramberg, 
             Nawang Rapke, Lhakpa Temba (7:30 am), Nima Doma Sherpa,
             Ngima Tshering, Palden Sherpa, Pema Sherpa at 8:30 am.

  Team was supposed to summit on 10/05, hence they arrived at C3 on 08/05. However, the jet stream hit, and they descended to C2 on 09/05. They went back up to C2 on 11/05.

  Summit team left C4 between 8:40 pm (Ramberg) and 9:20 pm (Neszmelyi) on 12/05. On the ascent, the wind was very strong and Neszmelyi did not wear goggles. He realised that his left eye was not very good and he started having problems with his eye sight in the morning. His eyes were blurry and he still had 30 percent of his eyesight. The summit was not very busy and they stayed about 20 minutes on the summit.

  Team descended to C2 where they arrived between 5 and 6 pm. Neszmelyi descended to C4 where he arrived at 4 pm.

  Nima Doma, Ramberg and Osterbauer spent an extra day at C2 and descended to BC on 15/05.

  On 14/05 Neszmelyi was picked up by helicopter from C2 and dropped at BC and on 15/05 he was helivaced to Kathmandu.

  Other members:

  Tetsuya Kaneko reached C2 during the acclimatization rotation. He descended to Namche Bazaar with Ramberg, but had some health issues afterwards and did not join the summit push.

  Team left BC on 16/05 apart from Neszmelyi.

  Oxygen: taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members and Sherpas.


expid: EVER22132
peakid: EVER
year: 2022
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Sumit Joshi
sponsor: Himalayan Ascent Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2022
countries: Australia, Brazil, Honduras, Ireland, Norway, USA
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Ever BC
bcdate: 2022-04-18
smtdate: 2022-05-12
termdate: 2022-05-19
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-221-14)
campsites: BC(18/04,5350m),C1(29/04,6000m),C2(30/04,6480m),C3(14/05,7050m),C4(15/05,7950m),Smt(12,16/05)
agency: Himalayan Ascent
routememo:
  Report from Kenneth Hutt:

  From the website: https://www.flyfromeverest.org/post/a-big-cheers-to-everyone-and-thank-you-for-your-kind-support

  I arrived at camp 2 on the 12th May, completely exhausted, I mean completely exhausted. I was suffering quite severe coughing bouts and severe dehydration, but felt I could continue and these impacts could be overcome. The icefall conditions was more difficult than previously negotiated due to the hot weather and the slog up the Western Cwm was done in the extreme heat of the day. Our entire team really did it tough, even our Sherpas. The following day was a rest day, but for me, with chest and breathing difficulties, this was not enough time to recover, not usual for me as I generally recover quite quickly. I was still carrying the Khumbu cough which was getting worse and coming from deeper in my chest - really starting to be of concern.

  I decided another rest day was needed and so waved off our other 4 team members who left camp 2 for the eventual summit. They each have stories to tell, 3 of them being successful which personally I found so gratifying as when you spend so much time with them you really start sharing their dream, their challenges and also their success.

  Joel, Ludmila and Gabriel, - congratulations and thank you for sharing OUR polio dream - the photos of the END POLIO NOW banner on the roof of the world are brilliant and really cemented our efforts for Polio eradication. Carlos, to attempt Everest without oxygen is superhuman - I’m sorry you didn’t get the view from the top but so close my friend - you should stand proud.

  On the 15th May, with Lobsang Sherpa, I left camp 2 with the plan of climbing and spending the night at camp 3, the following day then ascending to camp 4. The plan was then to launch the glider as soon as weather conditions would allow. Not 200m from camp 2 coughing fits started, and non-existent energy levels meant a decision needed to be made. To continue on at that time would be fool hardy. Camp 2 is the altitude limit of helicopter rescue and to continue on puts yourself in quite a dangerous situation should deteriorating health occur. I had made a friend of an experienced high altitude doctor at camp 2, Christian, so returned to seek his advice which he gave enthusiastically.

  His response however was not what I was hoping, “as a climber you have spent a lot of energy and resources to get here so I don’t want to say to you to go back, but as a doctor my firm and only instruction is go down. You are not going to get better up here so I think this is you only option. Go down, recover and have another go“. Dr Christian made a preliminary diagnosis, using the limited resources that he had, as most likely pneumonia.

  OK, easy decision, let’s get back to base camp, recover and meet the weather window due for the 21st May back at camp 4. A major setback but not the end. We can still do this.

  Returning through the ice fall (again) that day, completely drained of energy I went directly to the base camp clinic. There was no sign of any altitude illness so I thought a couple of days down lower would sort out the chest issues.

  Unfortunately the chest infection deteriorated. Today is the 23rd May and the chest infection has not cleared. We are of course off the mountain and the expedition has been concluded, Everest season has come to an end until next year.


expid: EVER22133
peakid: EVER
year: 2022
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Phil Crampton
sponsor: Expedition Himalaya Everest Expedition 2022
countries: Finland, USA
smtdate: 2022-05-12
campsites: BC(17/04,5350m),C1(01/05,6100m)),C2(02/05,6400m),C3(11/05,7100m)),C4(12/05,7950m),Smt(12-13/05)
achievment: 1st kidney donor to summit Everest.
agency: Expedition Himalaya
routememo:
  Note from David Ashley (from his Facebook page):

  Dave Ashley, June 5
  Everest Summit Day!!!
  Breaking this down into a few posts. 
  - Departure night, 12 May, and night climbing. 
  - Morning, 13 May, up to the summit. 
  - Summit!
  - Descent to Camp 4

  So, here is a picture and my thoughts from summit departure night, Camp 4 on 12 May. 

  We didn’t finish setting up our tent after climbing from Camp 3 to 4 until late in the day. Then after melting snow for water, drinking some tea, and having noodle soup and a dehydrated meal, finally laid down to rest around 6 pm. Nobody slept, too cold and it was 26,500 feet!

  Our thinking was to start early, get ahead of some larger groups and slower climbers, and be in top just after sunrise (after 5 am).

  So, we roused at 9 pm with just 3 hours of rest, and started gearing up for the very long summit climb and descent back to Camp 4. We were all still tired from the day’s climbing, with the longest and hardest day on the mountain in front of us.

  Getting out of the tent, I stumbled and fell, putting my hands out before me. Right onto a pile of crampons! Punctured my left hand below my thumb. Turned out to be just a minor injury treated with antibacterial ointment and a bandage, but would not heal due to our high elevation until I returned to Kathmandu. Annoying, not impacting the climb. Lucky. It was my only injury doing 2 months of trekking and climbing in Nepal.

  Still suffering from diarrhea, I loaded up on Imodium with the hopes I would make it up and down before needing to “go” again. 

  With my pack, harness, and crampons on I finally looked around. Woah, LOTS of climbing teams seemed to have our idea! Up early, and now we are right into rush hour for starting the climb. Crap. 

  Team Adventure Kidney’s plan was to stay together all the way up for safety reasons. Karma Gyalzen Sherpa, our lead guide and most experienced Everest climber, would be first and set the pace. I was next, followed by the other Everest summit first timer Sonam Sherpa. Finally Namgel Sherpa would bring up the rear. Both Karma and Namgel were carrying the additional oxygen tanks we would need for this trip.
   
  Like any good plan in the Death Zone, it fell apart in minutes. Suffering from sleep deprivation, Sonam started to drop back behind me with a zombie walk (falling asleep while standing up after every few steps). Other climbers behind us started to lose patience with the slow starting pace, and passed us on the realively flat ground at the start of the climb. Karma switched the order, putting Sonam up front and shaking the fixed rope line to regularly wake him up. Other Sherpas also tried to keep him awake as they passed, offering hugs and words of encouragement. 

  After a few hours, Sonam hit an energy spurt and didn’t have any more sleep issues. However, Namgel was losing a battle with diarrhea. He had to pull to the side and “go” several times, falling back further and further behind us. Yet we were focused on the climb, and didn’t realize he was dropping back. So, by the time we were getting close to dawn we had separated from Namgel and our reserve oxygen supplies by quite a distance (and perhaps 30 minutes?).

  This will set the story for some drama on summit day morning covered in my next post!

  Dave Ashley, June 7

  Mount Everest Summit day 4: Sunrise to just before the top. Also, a short summary of the few minutes spent on the summit. 

  All of this is above 8000 meters, in the Death Zone. 

  As the sky lightened in the East and we turned off our headlamps, a bluebird day greeted our eyes. Nearly at the highest point in the world, we had an almost unlimited 360 degree view. Amazing. Lucky us. 

  Certainly my memory isn’t crystal clear from the 28,000+ foot elevation. But here is what I recall. A little lengthy, but this is the crux of the trip. So, much happened. Karma/Namgel/Sonam, correct me if the recall is not accurate. 

  Karma Gyalzen Sherpa and I had stayed together climbing through the night. I am certain of that, as we took turns leading. We had to wait in long queues that formed at each technical section, as with only one fixed line there was risk to unclip and pass another climber. Most client climbers were also in groups of say 5-10, so we would have to had passed several to gain any advantage, else just be going as slow but stuck in the middle of a group. I could go faster for a few steps, but not enough to pass several people without having to stop and get my breathing rate back down again. 

  So, like just about every other climber, we waited, smacked our hands and kicked the snow, trying to stay warm and focused. It was frustrating and disappointing to be in these lines on summit day. It seemed like every team started around 9-10 pm, no coordination or plan between lead guides was made at Camp 4. But, it was the only day like that out of 6 weeks on the mountain. No crowds on other days. 

  I didn’t see Sonam Sherpa up ahead, and didn’t look back to see Namgel Sherpa.  Didn’t know we were separated from our additional oxygen that Namgel was carrying, as he was delayed several times due to diarrhea on the way up. Each time he paused to “go”, more climbers passed him making his return to us next to impossible. 

  My brain was not working well, just able to focus on stepping, working the rope, and self care. Didn’t even realize he was not right behind me. 

  Had no idea how close Karma and I would come to disaster.

  Nearing the summit ridge, Karma and I stopped for some water and food. It was a short break for me, and another large and slow moving group was approaching from below. From what I remember, Karma had a damaged oxygen regulator. It had banged against a rock. So he was changing that out with a spare. He told me to go, and he would catch up. 

  I entered the technical ridge leading up to and including Hillary Step. I was climbing alone for about 100 meters.
   
  On a large and relatively smooth rock, my crampons slipped and I fell. Still connected to the fixed line so no risk of falling over the edge (but lots of exposure here), I ended right next to another climber. A DEAD climber. Looked like from a prior year. Oh crap!

  I had forgotten to expect this on summit day. Between the fall and seeing my first dead climber, the Imodium and my bowel control "almost" failed. So close to having a wet mess in my pants, which could be life threading up here and certainly end my summit bid.

  But that’s not the real problem. 

  You see, Karma was keeping tabs on my bottle oxygen supply carefully. Using a known flow rate and given time, he would know when I needed a fresh bottle. And that point was…right about now. I only had a few minutes of oxygen left, and had no idea it was low. 

  Meanwhile Karma had gotten behind that group of slow climbers. On the summit ridge it is very difficult for anybody to pass. 

  Yet, somehow he realized the time, that I needed more oxygen, and shot past that group. How was that possible???

  I was still unaware, slowly approaching Hillary Step and the summit. 

  Suddenly “Dave!” I could hear Karma’s voice even in the high winds. 

  I stopped, looked back, and recognized Karma’s climbing suit. I waited. 

  When Karma approached, he turned me 90 degrees to check my regulator pressure gauge. I saw his eyes go wide (under his oxygen mask, I could not see his face). He told me to sit down, I was out of air and he would get a new bottle. 

  But…he didn’t have any full ones. 

  Karma called Namgel on the radio. No answer. Again. No answer. FUCK!!!

  Karma stoped another passing Sherpa and asked to borrow a bottle. No surprise he was turned down, you are highly unlikely to find anybody with a extra bottle near the summit!

  Finally, Karma unscrewed his bottle and switched it with mine. “Let’s go!” he shouted. The slow group was catching back up, and now with many climbers heading down (and only one fixed line), we would be stuck waiting our turn up the Hillary Step for quite some time. 

  We made it up the step and there was indeed a long line of climbers anxious to get down. They started right after we cleared the rope, keeping the large slow group waiting at the bottom for some time. 

  We passed them and made fast time to the summit. Too fast, as I began to feel nauseous and my breathing was at a very high rate.
    
  Meanwhile Karma ran out of oxygen. 

  He removed the face mask and just finished the climb…without oxygen!!!!  Amazing. What a sacrifice to enable my summit opportunity. Heroic. 

  Once in the top we found Sonam. Crazy too, he had carried a Ukulele up to the summit and was now playing it! There was a CROWD of climbers here, with most waiting patiently in line for a summit photo. I believe Karma did find a Sherpa with a partial bottle of oxygen here, and we had enough to eventually find Namgel. 
  My plan was to get pictures with my summit banner and sponsor flags. But I felt terrible from the rapid finish to the summit, and managed to sit down and wave a few times. It wasn’t the way I had imagined spending a few precious minutes up here…but I felt an overwhelming need to get down and do so before another large group started down on the rope. Getting stuck in a traffic jam way up here is how other climbers have died. Keenly aware of that and now having seen bodies of two dead climbers, I abandoned plans of that “perfect” summit picture. My apologies to the many supporters and sponsors on those flags. I did get photos the next morning at Camp 4.

  It’s taken me weeks to process what happened on that climb. Hence the delay in sharing it here. Hopefully I captured the events correctly. 


expid: EVER22136
peakid: EVER
year: 2022
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Tenzing Jangbu Sherpa
sponsor: Ang Rita Sherpa Memorial Everest Expedition 2022
approach: Yalung Ri for acclimatization
bcdate: 2022-05-01
smtdate: 2022-05-12
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2022-05-18
campsites: BC(01/05,5350m),C2(05/05,6440m),C4(11/05,7900m),Smt(12/05)
agency: Dreamers Destination Treks (SST pmt)
routememo:
  Approach: Yalung Ri for acclimatizing

  BC  01/05  5350m
  C2  05/05  6440m
  C4  11/05  7900m
  Smt 12/05  by Tenzing Jangbu and Phurba Tenjing Sherpa at 9:30 am.

  Tenzing Jangbu and Phurba Tenjing left South Col at 10:30 pm on 11/05. They left late to avoid the traffic jam but caught up with the other teams. Straightforward climb. Many people on the summit. They spent about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to C4 where they arrived at 3 pm. On 13/05 to C2 and 15/05 to BC.

  Left BC on 18/05 by heli from Gorak Shep to Lukla

  Tenzing Jangbu is the grandson of Ang Rita Sherpa (Snow Leopard).

  Oxygen:
    taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Tenzing
    from C4 to top to C4 by Phurba Tenzing.


expid: EVER22137
peakid: EVER
year: 2022
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Oxana Morneva
sponsor: Makalu Extreme Everest Expedition 2022
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Lobuje->Ever BC
bcdate: 2022-04-23
smtdate: 2022-05-12
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2022-05-14
campsites: BC(23/04,5350m),C1(26/04,6000m),C2(27/04,6440m),C3(10/05,7100m),C4(11/05,7900m),Smt(12/05)
agency: Makalu Extreme Treks (Makalu Adventure pmt)
routememo:
  Approach: Pangboche

  BC  23/04  5350m
  C1  26/04  6000m
  C2  27/04  6440m
  C3  10/05  7100m
  C4  11/05  7900m
  Smt 12/05  by Belkin, Sukhodeev, Pasang Lama and Pasang Dorjii Sherpa at 6 am.

  Team left C4 on 11/05 at 9 pm. Straightforward climb. They descended all the way to BC after the summit. Left BC on 14/05 by heli.

  Oxygen: taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members and Sherpas


expid: EVER22138
peakid: EVER
year: 2022
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Sagar Sunar
sponsor: Himalayan Shepherd Shortest Man on Everest Expedition 2022
smtdate: 2022-05-15
termnote: Abandoned at 8200m due to unfavorable weather
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,xxx(15/05,8200m)
agency: Himalayan Shepherd
routememo:
  From Sagar Sunar Facebook page:

  My name is Sagar Sunar Bishowkarma.

  I want to Summit the highest peak Mt Everest. But last spring season in 2022. I was able to reach 8200 meter.

  On 15 th May, 2022 Due to bad weather I could not reach/scale the top of Everet.

  But in this up coming season, I will try my best to climb Mt Everest.


expid: EVER22140
peakid: EVER
year: 2022
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Malaysia
leaders: Muhammad Hawari Hashim
sponsor: Keluarga Malaysia Everest Expedition 2022
smtdate: 2022-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to bad weather (high winds)
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,xxx(22/05,7600m)
agency: TAGnepal Trekking
routememo:
  Team of 4 Malaysians with 3 Sherpas was ordered to turn back from 7600m on 22 May due to stormy weather with high winds.


expid: HIML22101
peakid: HIML
year: 2022
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Kenya
leaders: Hemal Hariya
sponsor: Himalaya Asuka Himlung Expedition 2022
countries: Australia, UK
approach: Via Koto->Meta->Phu valley->then to Basecamp
bcdate: 2022-03-22
smtdate: 2022-04-01
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2022-04-03
campsites: BC(22/03,4850m),C1(30/03,5300m),C2(31/03,6000m),Smt(01/04)
accidents: Lakshmanan suffered mild pulmonary edema.
agency: Himalaya Asuka
routememo:
  Team left C2 at 10 pm on 31/03, summited at 2:30 pm on 01/04, stayed 10 minutes, then descended to C2. A calm night with less wind.

  Rope was fixed up 6960m on summit push.

  Team left BC by heli on 03/04.


expid: HIML22102
peakid: HIML
year: 2022
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Ireland
leaders: Ed Jackson
sponsor: Ascent Adventures Nepal Himlung Expedition 2022
countries: France
smtdate: 2022-04-23
campsites: BC,C1,C2,Smt(23/04)
agency: Ascent Adventures Nepal
routememo:
  There were two separate teams, one Irish and one French.

  The 4-member Irish team climbed in late March-early April and reached 6800m and turned back due to difficult conditions.

  The 6-member French team climbed in mid-April and summited on 23 April. This was acclimatization for Everest.


  Report from Ed Jackson's Facebook page:

  As the dust settles it’s still hard to comprehend what happened, especially from the comfort of home. I kept a diary throughout the expedition which I’ll be posting from in the coming weeks but here’s a summary of what went on during that summit day as I appreciate its not fair to keep people in the dark.

  We were the first team on Himlung Himal (7126m) in over 2 years which was both an exciting and daunting prospect. Although remote, usually the mountain is reasonably well mapped, camps 1, 2 & 3 are established and lines are fixed to the summit. We were aware that job now lay to us, however the unusually heavy snow conditions made it impossible for our climbing guides to set up camp 3 or fix lines all the way to the top. Our summit attempt therefore had to start from the lower Camp 2 (6018m) leaving a giant effort if we were to summit.

  Undeterred on the 31st March at 10 pm we set off from camp 2. We were 16 hours in and had reached a height of 6800m when we made the tough decision to turn back, continuing without fixed lines and with the level of exhaustion we were experiencing was too dangerous. [Ropes didn’t go to the summit and it was too dangerous to free-climb as noted on Aaron Campbell's FB page].

  We spent the next few hours descending and by the time we reached the crevasse field it was late afternoon. The snow was a lot softer now and with no marked route we were entering a minefield. Within 10m our lead guide disappeared through a crevasse, trapped 2 stories below for over an hour he was eventually rescued but to continue would have been madness so the decision was made to call for a helicopter evacuation.

  Darkness was setting in and we were informed that the helicopter wouldn’t be able to fly at night so we’d have to wait until morning. We ended up spending the night at over 6000ms with no shelter, food or water and temperatures below -20 degrees, huddled together for warmth in a battle to see sunrise.

  An unprecedented but epic end to a life changing adventure that has left me with more respect for the high mountains than ever before. It’s fair to say that without the state of the art kit and the energy of a heroic few this story could have had a very different ending.


expid: HIML22103
peakid: HIML
year: 2022
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Catalina Quesada Castro
sponsor: Snowy Himlung Himal Expedition 2022
countries: Austria, Canada, Iran
bcdate: 2022-04-23
smtdate: 2022-05-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6450m due to deep snow and avalanche danger
campsites: BC(23/04),C1(25/04,5450m),C2(30/02,6100m),C3(05/05,6450m),xxx
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  From Lina Quesada Castro Facebook page:

  15 days trying to conquer the elusive Himlung Himal summit of 7126m. Reached base camp on 23rd April, with full enthusiasm, after 2 years of not being able to step foot in the Himalayas. On the 25th of April I was already sleeping in the field1 at 5450m and since April 26 the snow hasn't given us a day's break. There were 4 members of the expedition (one Austrian, 2 sherpas and me). On April 29th we returned to C1 and on the 30th we rode C2 at 6100m. for which we have to go through a glacier full of cracks, some of more than 1 meter and we opened footprints with snow up to the knee, but that same night it continued to snow and in the morning again to open footprints. We left at C2 all summit clothing, feather jumpsuits, gloves, etc. After several days of waiting we went back up on May 5, with optimism and hope, this time we advance to 6450m of the C3. But again the snow broke our plans and after 2 nights of snow and facing the danger of avalanches, we decided, load all the material and go down to the base field, again drawing cracks, opening footprint and disappointed. The Himlung Himal has eluded us, probably autumn is the best time to get it up. I am happy at least because I have tested my physical conditions as after having Covid I had great fears. Will keep training with positivity and energy for my next challenge, K2.


expid: HIML22104
peakid: HIML
year: 2022
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Romnath Gyawali
sponsor: BMS 1st Batch (Nepal Mtn Academy) Himlung Expedition 2022
smtdate: 2022-04-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to bad weather
campsites: BC,C1(5470m),C2(24/04,6100m),xxx(6100m)
agency: Expedition Himalaya
routememo:
  From NMA Facebook page:

  Overview of Himlung Himal Expedition (7126m)
   (as part of the BMS 8th Semester Field Research; 7000m mountain climbing)
  Manang, Nepal

  Nepal Mountain Academy
  under the Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation, Government of Nepal

  Bachelor of Mountaineering (BMS) incorporates two giant climbs as part of the course structure, a 6000m peak and 7000m mountain! At the core, BMS aspires to furnish leaders of the Himalayas, thus the need of experiential mountaineering along with academic and research foundations.

  In this setup, the first 7000m expedition of the academy consisted of students of BMS 8th semester, technical and research instructors, and expedition organizer. The team beforehand the expedition had their individual research subjects and associated gears and equipment prepared for the field study. The team of 15 students, instructors, and organizer left Kathmandu on Chaitra 29, 2078 for a 24-days long expedition.

  The planned route and stays of the expedition to express in brief was: 
    Kathmandu-Besisahar-Koto-Meta-Chyaku-Phu-Himlung
    BC-Camp1-Camp2-Summit*-BC-Meta-Koto-Besisahar-Kathmandu.

  Manang is a blessed geography of Nepal. Located in the rain shadow of Annapurna-Dhaulagiri massif, the land is completely different from that of the remaining Nepal. Manang is beautified by its peculiar gigantic rocks and gorges between them drained by roaring Himalayan rivers, while the highs are lush alpine meadows where blue sheep and yaks roam around. Manang stands atop its own cultural integrity, roots of age-old Himalayan settlements, and their cultural distinction are among the major attractions here. The trekking trail is beautified by deep and rich streams, bridges, vegetation and wildlife!

  Through the deep gorges, valleys and plateaus, our team trekked to the Himlung Himal Base Camp, mind steeled for the push of Himlung Himal, a 7000m giant and also popular expedition peak. In perspective, a 7000m mountain is something that the entire western hemisphere does not possess. The highest mountain of the west is Aconcagua (6961m). Thus climbing a 7000m peak in Nepal marks an altitude that is only attainable here and anywhere else.

  The days at basecamp were among the most productive ones. Since the commencement of BMS, technical skills such as use of ice axe, jumar, concept of fix lines and rope-ups, rope knots and safety systems were familiarized and the team had the time to re-sharpen them. Climbing a 7000m mountain requires a humongous amount of training, preparation and a mind of steel. Route assessment and preliminary studies were made to prepare for the assault. Beforehand, rotations were made to ensure better acclimatization and adaptation. Rotation to Camp 1 (5470m) and back to basecamp, a night at Camp 1 and rotation to Camp 2 (6100m) and finally, the summit push from Camp 2 was planned.

  Simultaneously, students exhibited a great vigor in conducting research studies. Altitude is a tricky place. Human metabolism functions low in high altitudes while the body struggles to cope up with deficient oxygen and conducting research studies at such altitude is already a mega challenge. Students managed to reach their concerned altitudes and research sites for data collection and are back with essential primary fieldwork, which the academy hopes to add mountain knowledge to existing national knowledge base.

  Safety is one of the pillars of mountaineering and an expedition is not considered successful unless everyone descends back safely. Eying on this, the academy had assigned Gelje Sherpa, an IFMGA Guide of highly decorated achievements as Everest summit 9 times with multiple 8000ers summit, and a medical doctor and adventurer, Dr. Behrouz Moghadashi from Iran who himself has been an avalanche survivor and emergency medicine expert working for the UN. Similarly, the organizer of the expedition Expedition Himalaya, had assigned professional Sherpa climbers and rescue logistics for guaranteed safety. The academy heartily thanks the professionals for their immense support.

  The team trained by all means for the final push. The day came when the team headed for Camp 2 to make the summit push. The plan was to make an early start from Camp 1, reach Camp 2 by late day, rest and recover energy and start the summit push at 10:00 pm. Unfortunately, contrary to the weather forecast, a whiteout took over with no signs of push. Considering the effort put through the expedition, the team stayed a night at 6000+ meters hoping to make the push the next night. The weather of a mountain is never ascertained, and to everyone's surprise, the weather next night also did not improve, thus the team was forced to stay another night at 6000+ meters. Human body is not made to live through multiple nights at 6000+ meters and thus considering the team's health, instructors decided to retreat, aborting the expedition's summit push.

  Many things were learnt as the mountain does not consider climbers' plans and ambitions, still one has to make their way and decide during the hard times.
  Himlung Himal expedition was the first giant academic expedition of the academy and the best part about it is the continuous learning through, the assurance of safety of every member of the expedition and ability of students in conducting their research studies in such harsh environment. The expedition was an overall success!

  The academy thanks everyone associated with this expedition. Special thanks go to the dedicated students, instructors, organizer, research facilitators, supervisors, TU and the Government of Nepal, Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation.


expid: KANG22101
peakid: KANG
year: 2022
route1: SW Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Mingma Gyalje Sherpa
sponsor: Imagine Nepal Kangchenjunga Expedition 2022
countries: Canada, India, Japan, Macedonia, Pakistan, USA
approach: Helicopter to BC
bcdate: 2022-04-04
smtdate: 2022-05-07
smttime: 0407
termdate: 2022-05-08
campsites: BC(04/04,5500m),C1(6240m),C2(09/04,6350m),C3(20/04,6836m),C4(06/05,7325m),Smt(07/05)
agency: Imagine Nepal
routememo:
  BC  04/04  5500m
  C1   --    6240m
  C2  09/04  6350m
  C3  20/04  6836m
  C4  06/05  7325m
  Smt 07/05  by 7 members and 6 Sherpas (see below).

  Team left BC for the first summit attempt on 23/04 to head for the summit on 26/04. On this attempt, they reached 8400m (Khan without oxygen) on 26/04. There was a lot of snow on the route and the weather was bad, so the team had delayed their summit push. The team led by Mingma G lost the way twice, but when they found the way it was already too late. They turned back at about 3 pm and descended to C4. On 27/04 he was back at BC.

  For the summit push, the team left BC on 05/05 and ascended directly to C3. They took about 8 hrs to get there. On 06/05 they reached C4 in the afternoon and started their summit push at 9 pm. Khan had intended to summit without supplemental O2, but put it on shortly after C4. The route was already fixed from the previous attempt and the summit successes by Pioneer Adventure and SST on 05/05. Straightforward climb. Khan stayed on the summit for about 15 minutes and descended to BC, where they arrived at 8 pm. Left BC on 08/05 to Tseram.

  Members who did not summit:

  Keval Kakka reached 8400m during the first push, but he had lost a toenail during the Dhaulagiri expedition which then got frostbitten during the first summit push.
   
  Sashko Kedev reached 8400m during the first push and he did not have time to join the second summit.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C4 to top to C4 by Khan
    Taken and used from C2 to top by others

  Kanchenjunga Summit:

  On 7th May 2022, between 4:07 am to 7:23 am, entire team of Imagine Nepal Kanchenjunga Expedition team made it to summit of Mt Kanchenjunga 8586m.

  1.  KHAN SIRBAZ (PAKISTAN)       7 am
  2.  RZUCIDLO GINA MARIE (USA)    7.23 am
  3.  WHEATLEY JILL (CANADA)       6.30 am
  4.  ISHIKAWA NAOKI (JAPAN)       6 am
  5.  METCALFE TRACEE LEE (USA)    6 am
  6.  WARNER CHRISTOPHER (USA)     4.07 am
  7.  MINGMA G (NEPAL)             7.23 am
  8.  DAWA GYALJE SHERPA (NEPAL)   7.23 am
  9.  CHHIRING SHERPA (NEPAL)	     4.07 am
  10. TAMTING SHERPA (NEPAL)       6 am
  11. PEMBA TENZING SHERPA (NEPAL) 6 am
  12. PASANG NAMGEL SHERPA (NEPAL) 6.30 am
  13. PEMBA CHHIRI SHERPA (NEPAL)  4.07 am


  Report from Tracee Metcalfe:

  BC(21/04),C2(23/04),C3(24/04),C4(24/04),xxx

  The above dates were from summit attempt #1 which failed. We flew to KTM (me & 1 other because of frostbite), the others to rest. We returned to KBC on 03/05.

  [On the summit push] the ropes at the top were very ragged and did not appear to be new this year. There was an Indian man who died the day before us whose body was close to 8000m; there was also an older dead body near the summit.


expid: KANG22102
peakid: KANG
year: 2022
route1: SW Face
nation: UK
leaders: Adriana Brownlee
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks (SST) Kangchenjunga Expedition 2022
countries: Belgium, Italy, Mongolia, Nepal, Netherlands, Pakistan, Poland, Romania, Spain, Switzerland
smtdate: 2022-05-05
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(05/05,12/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Report from Sheroze Kashif:

  Approach: Heli to BC

  BC  15/04  5500m
  C1   --    6240m
  C2  23/04  6220m
  C3  03/05  6836m
  C4  04/05  7325m
  Smt 05/05  by Kashif, Namja Bhote (Makalu) at 3:30 pm.

  Team left C4 at 7:30 pm on 04/05. The rope was only fixed up to 8400m from the first summit attempt which was led by Mingma Gyalje from Imagine Treks.

  They spent about 20 mins on the summit and descended to C4 where they arrived at 6 pm. On 06/05 back to BC. Left BC on 07/05 by helicopter to Kathmandu.

  Oxygen: From C4 to top to C3 by Kashif and Namja.


  Report from Josette Valloton:

  Approach: Heli to BC.

  BC  07/05  5500m
  C1   --	   6240m
  C2  09/05  6220m
  C3  10/05  6836m
  C4  11/05  7325m
  Smt 12/05  by Valloton, Chhangba Sherpa at 8 am.

  Valloton and Chhangba left C4 at 8 pm. Straightforward climb. They stayed about 10 minutes on the summit. Valloton descended to BC where she arrived at 11 pm, while Chhangba descended to C3 as he had problem with his eyes. Left BC on 15/05 trekking to Tseram, heli to Taplethok, jeep to Ilam.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C4 to top to C4 by Valloton and Chhangba.


  Report from Rudi Bollaert:

  Approach:  Heli to BC  

  BC  15/04
  C1    --   Not used
  C2  22/04
  C2  29/04
  C4  04/05
  Smt 05/05 by Bollaert at 4:30 pm.

  We started in C4 on 4 May 8:30 pm. All good, climbing went as it should. Sometime after the bottle switch in the morning I got the news from Purnima that my Sherpa (Gyalu) went down (feeling ill).

  I felt great and perfect weather so decided to continue. Several times I asked about my 3rd oxygen bottle and the other Sherpa´s confirmed I have a 3rd bottle, but they don't know the exact place where the bottle was.

  Climbing was very slow because of fixing the last part and some inexperienced climbers (1 hr waiting for 5m rock, her Sherpa installed a rescue hoist to pull her). It took so much time I asked a Sherpa to reduce my oxygen flow from 2 to 1.

  So I summit on 5 May at 4.30 pm with my second bottle on l.

  I ask to go down first because almost out of oxygen. On the way down I passed the Indian climber in green down suit and told him to go down (he died later).

  Descending was OK, in the place where I expected the full bottle I find only empty bottles. I checked only bottles without a company sticker. SST did not use specific stickers to mark their bottles.

  There was a mess of many bottles on few carabiners, a lot of them have a Pioneer sticker. Has somebody of Pioneer or another company has taken my bottle or have I not searched well: we never know. I did not find a full SST bottle. It was still daylight.

  I descended with my old almost empty bottle. Then it is uncertain, blackout and hallucinations.

  Luckily I keep following the ropes and descended slowly further. 1 am at night the Sherpa of Arianzul, Ming Temba, has found me (I had taken my gloves out). He give me his bottle, asked in C4 for a new bottle, and helped me descending.

  3 am we reached C4. I slept with oxygen in C4. The time is not sure, I was in an other world... In the morning everything was OK except 1 finger frostbitten.

  Next we went down, I without oxygen, my Sherpa [Gyalu] following with oxygen. He was really ill, only regrettable of the non-communication about the place and color of my full bottle. Next day 06/05 heli from base camp to KTM hospital to treat the finger.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C4 to summit and on descent to C4.

  Accidents: Bollaert frostbite on one finger (likely to heal completely).

  Hired: Gyalu Sherpa (no summit, turned around after C4).


  Report from Wilco Van Rooijen:

  Approach: Mera Peak, helicopter from Lukla to BC.

  BC  19/04  5500m
  C1    --   6240m
  C2  24/04  6100m
  C3  29/04  6800m
  C4  04/05  7300m
  HPt 11/05  8100m by Van Rooijen, Manuel Gonzalez Diaz.

  In 04/05, team left C4 for a summit push without O2 at 9 pm. They reached 7800m at 3:30 am. Some other people like Marco Confortola were on the route for their summit push, however, there was a slight problem with the route finding and the pair decided to make this another acclimatization rotation. They descended to BC the same day.

  They rested at BC for a few days; however, SST told them that they would disassemble BC so they decided to go for their summit push. They left BC on 09/05. Van de Gevel reached about 5800m and felt too tired for a summit push and returned to BC the same day.

  Van Rooijen reached C2 on 09/05, C3 10/05, C4 on 11/05. He left for summit push at 7 pm on 11/05. He had acquired two oxygen bottles from Nuri Sherpa (Confortola’s Sherpa) as he thought the summit day was too long without supplemental oxygen. He was climbing with Gonzalez Diaz and at 8100m Gonzalez Diaz decided to turn back. Van Rooijen did not feel comfortable using the oxygen and when Gonzalez Diaz said he was going down he decided to go with him. It was about 3 am. He descended to BC where he arrived at 1 pm on 12/05.

  Left BC on 14/05 trekking to Ramche, 15/05 to Tseram and on same day by 			helicopter to Taplethok, jeep to Taplejung.

  Sherpas: 0

  Oxygen: Not taken, but used from C4 to HP to C4 by Van Rooijen.


  From report from Lu Chung-Han (Pioneer Adventure team):

  In 4 May, about 8:30 pm local time, Lu began his summit push from camp 4 7400m. He want to try without O2.

  In 5 May, about 2:45 pm local time, he arrived about 8495m. By the way, he saw Marco Confortola turn back in 8495m, Marco and he is only 2 persons climbing without O2 in 5 May, so they know each other. And then he continued.


expid: KANG22103
peakid: KANG
year: 2022
route1: SW Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Mingma Dorchi Sherpa, Sanu Sherpa
sponsor: Pioneer Adventure Kangchenjunga Expedition 2022
countries: Czech Republic, Hungary, India, Taiwan, USA
smtdate: 2022-05-05
smttime: 1650
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(05/05)
agency: Pioneer Adventure
routememo:
  Report from Lu Chang-Han:

  In the Spring 2022, it was a Taiwanese Lu Chung-Han (nickname Ago), he climbed Kangchenjunga. I am member of his overwatch team.

  Cause he got some frostbite during summit push, so he went to hospital directly after he back to Kathmandu, so he didn't met with you.

  He want to provide some detail about his summit push to you. To check was he summit or not.

  In 4 May, about 8:30 pm local time, Ago began his summit push from camp 4 7400m. He want to try without O2.

  In 5 May, about 2:45 pm local time, he arrived about 8495m. By the way, he saw Marco Confortola turn back in 8495m, Marco and he is only 2 persons climbing without O2 in 5 May, so they know each other. And then he continued.

  At about local time 5:17 pm, he arrived his highest point, and almost lost his consciousness (he still no O2). He remember he heard Sanu Sherpa (leader of fixing team) yelling "Summit!! Summit!!" and he know he is very near with summit. But that time he felt very chaos and tired, so he just stopped and sat down in that point and waiting everybody descent together.


  Report on Varga Csaba:

  According to the Hungarian tourist magazine program, the alpinist from Nagyvárad turned back from 8000 meters and started descending towards the base camp. "The optimal decision made in a tense situation is also a climbing virtue," adds Hazajóró following Varga Csaba's expeditions in his post.

  The civilian architect activist went through three massive acclimatization rounds before the summit attack.

  This time, Varga Csaba is also trying to reach the world's third highest peak, the 8586-meter Kancsendzönga, by pure climbing, without the help of supplemental oxygen or high-altitude porters. Varga Csaba already tried to climb the mountain peak on the border of Nepal and India in 2018, but due to the weather conditions, he did not succeed in the summit attack even then.


expid: KANG22104
peakid: KANG
year: 2022
route1: SW Face
nation: Canada
leaders: John Gill
sponsor: Grand Himalaya Treks Kangchenjunga Expedition 2022
countries: Australia, India, Netherlands, Romania, USA
approach: Flight to Taplejung, trekking to BC
bcdate: 2022-04-21
smtdate: 2022-05-09
termdate: 2022-05-12
campsites: BC(21/04,5500m),C1(24/04,6200m),C2(25/04,6220m),C3(07/05,6900m),C4(08/05,7350m),Smt(09/05)
accidents: Fall by Boogaard
agency: Grand Himalaya Treks
routememo:
  BC  21/04  5500m
  C1  24/04  6200m
  C2  25/04  6220m
  C3  07/05  6900m
  C4  08/05  7350m
  Smt 09/05  by Gill, Thammineni, Potter, Lhakpa Sherpa, Pemba Chhiring at 8 am, 
             Van de Kolk, Akash Rai at 8:54 am, Boogaard, Pemba Nuru, 
             Lhakpa Chhiring at 9:55 am, Mastan, Pasang Sherpa at 10:25 am.

  First summit team (Tulpan, Mastan, Kumar, Bushan) left at 6 pm on 08/05 and the second summit team (Potter, Gill, Von de Kolk, Boogaard, Thammineni) left at 8 pm.

  Straightforward climb. The ropes were fixed by Pioneer Adventures; however, in the summit section there was partially old rope as Pioneer only fixed to 8400m. The rest was from the previous year. Weather was warm and clear, but around 9 am the weather got cloudy. 

  On the ascent Boogaard was hit by a piece of ice in his left eye, which turned him temporarily blind but he continued.

  The summiters spend about 10 minutes on the summit, but it was very windy and cloudy.

  On the descent, at about 8400m, Boogaard tumbled down for about 30m. He was followed by a rock that also tumbled down and hit him in the face. He was hit on the head and he was bleeding heavily. Lhakpa and Pemba helped him and they lowered him down. However, Boogaard got too cold and he decided to continue on his own feet with their help. He was still suffering from blindness due to the ice that hit him on the ascent and the Sherpa gave him directions. They reached C4 at midnight. 

  On 10/05, the trio descended to C3, where they arrived at 3 pm. They spent one hour there and continued to C2 at 11 pm. On 11/05, he was rescued by helicopter and taken to Kathmandu. He went to ERA hospital for four days. He got stitches on his forehead and his eyelid which was torn.

  The rest of the team descended to C2 after the summit, where they arrived at around 8 am. On 10/05 everyone was down at BC. Left BC on 12/05 by helicopter.

  People who did not reach the summit:

  Tulpan reached about 7900m, but did not feel confident enough to continue. He descended to C3.

  Kumar and Bushan reached about 8000m; however, they both had cerebral edema and descended at about 3 am. Their Sherpas (Lhakpa Sherpa and Jangbu Sherpa) helped them down to C4, where they arrived 10 am. They spent the day at C4 and descended with help to C2 on 10/05. They spent another day at C2 and were rescued by helicopter on 11/05 and taken to hospital in Kathmandu. They both recovered.

  Krishnan reached BC on 21/04 and two days later he woke up with pink foam on his mouth. He was helicoptered out of BC on 24/04. He had summited Annapurna 1 previously with Peak Promotion.

  Gullamarusu reached BC on 21/04. He had contracted UTI on the trek in and was not well. He left BC on 12/05 and never climbed out of BC.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C4 to top to C4 by members and Sherpas.


expid: KANG22105
peakid: KANG
year: 2022
route1: SW Face
nation: UK
leaders: Jon Gupta
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Kangchenjunga Expedition 2022
approach: Trekked in via Yalung Glacier
bcdate: 2022-04-26
smtdate: 2022-05-12
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2022-05-15
campsites: BC(26/04,5500m),C1(6240m),C2(03/05,6220m),C3(10/05,6836m),C4(11/05,7325m),Smt(12/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  26/04  5500m
  C1   --	   6240m
  C2  03/05  6220m
  C3  10/05  6836m
  C4  11/05  7325m
  Smt 12/05  by all members and Sherpas at 7:30 am.

  Team reached C4 at about 1 pm on 11/05 and left for the summit at 8:30 pm on the same day. Straightforward climb. Relentlessly steep. Pretty warm night. They spent about half an hour on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at about 7 pm. On 13/05 all members and Sherpa back to BC.

  Left BC on 15/05 helicopter back to Kathmandu apart from Jones-Warner who runs from Kangchenjunga BC to Everest BC to Kathmandu.

  Fixed rope: 100m on the descent around 8350m (where snow turns to rock).

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members and Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Nuru (Khumjung)
    Dawa Tenji (Khumjung)
    Lhakpa Wangchu (Pangboche)
    Ang Kame (Makalu)
    Ang Tendi (Bupsa)
    Mingmar Rinji (Makalu)


expid: KANG22106
peakid: KANG
year: 2022
route1: SW Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Nirmal Purja
sponsor: Elite Exped Kanchenjunga Expedition 2022
countries: Qatar
smtdate: 2022-05-07
smttime: 1050
campsites: BC,C2,Smt(07/05)
agency: Elite Exped
routememo:
  From Nirmal Purja Facebook pages:

  May 9

  Kanchenjunga is a serious undertaking. The third highest mountain in the world represents the toughest climb – technical and requiring huge skill - it’s a must for any serious mountaineer’s bucket list.

  @Atalthani and I did the summit push in two days on this most difficult of mountains. We smashed it from Base Camp to Camp 2 and then Camp 2 to the summit, with a few hours rest at Camp 3.

  Huge respect to Asma for smashing this one because she wasn’t feeling great at the beginning of the climb. But after a few hours’ sleep we cracked on and I’m very proud to have helped once again guide this incredibly determined person. She becomes the First Arabic to summit Kanchenjunga – huge congratulations and respect!

  May 19

  We started with Kanchenjunga – we summitted 10:50 am on 7th May.

  Here’s how we did it:

  5th May – We climbed from Base Camp to Camp 2.

  6th May – We started the summit push (with a few hours break at Camp 3) and we summited Kanchenjunga at 10:50 am on 7th May.

  Then on to Everest.


expid: KANG22107
peakid: KANG
year: 2022
route1: SW Face
nation: Slovakia
leaders: Peter Hamor
sponsor: Slovakian-Romanian Kangchenjunga Expedition 2022
countries: Romania
approach: By heli to 3000m, trekked to BC
bcdate: 2022-04-14
smtdate: 2022-05-07
smttime: 1315
termdate: 2022-05-11
campsites: BC(14/04,5200m),C1(18/04,6000m),C2(19/04,6000m),C3(24/04,6800m),C4(06/05,7200m),Smt(07/05)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking (SST pmt)
routememo:
  Summit team left C4 at 9 pm on 6 May. Colibansanu summited at 13:15 on 7 May, stayed 5, then descendeded to C4. Long [route], good fixed [rope], wind bursts in the night and windy on top.

  Hamor and Gane reached 8200m, then turned back due to coldness and light frostbite and descended to a lower camp.

  Team left BC on 11 May by heli.


expid: KANG22108
peakid: KANG
year: 2022
route1: SW Face
nation: Norway
leaders: Kristin Harila
sponsor: 8K Expeditions Kangchenjunga 2022
approach: By helicopter
bcdate: 2022-05-11
smtdate: 2022-05-14
smttime: 0530
termdate: 2022-05-15
campsites: BC(11/05,5500m),C2(11/05,6220m),C3(12/05,6836m),C4(13/05,7325m),Smt(14/05)
agency: 8K Expeditions (Pioneer Adventure pmt)
routememo:
  Report from Kristin Harila:

  BC  11/05  5500m
  C2  11/05  6220m
  C3  12/05  6836m
  C3  13/05  7325m
  Smt 14/05  by Harila, Pasdawa, Dawa (uncle of Lhakpa who owns of 8K) at 5:30 am.

  Team left C4 at 7 pm. Ropes were fixed and conditions were good. Harila felt a bit sick, but still managed to summit. They spent about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to BC where they arrived at 6:30 pm.

  Oxygen: From C3 to top to C3 by Harila; from C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.

  Left BC on 15/05 by helicopter to Lukla. Stayed in Lukla on 16/05 due to bad weather and flew to EBC on 17/05.


expid: KANG22109
peakid: KANG
year: 2022
route1: SW Face
nation: India
leaders: Baljeet Kaur
sponsor: Baljeet Kaur's Kangchenjunga Expedition 2022
approach: By heliocopter
bcdate: 2022-05-06
smtdate: 2022-05-12
smttime: 0420
termdate: 2022-05-15
campsites: BC(06/05,5500m),C1(07/05,6240m),C2(09/05,6220m),C3(10/05,6836m),C4(11/05,7325m),Smt(12/05)
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  Report from Baljeet Kaur:

  BC  06/05  5500m by heli
  C1  07/05  6240m
  C2  09/05  6220m
  C3  10/05  6836m
  C4  11/05  7325m
  Smt 12/05  by Baljeet Kaur and Mingma Thindu Sherpa at 4:20 am.

  Oxygen: Kajur used from C3 and Sherpa from C4.

  Left BC on 15 May. We got stuck at BC for 2 days because of bad weather. Then on 15/05 took a helicopter ride up to Surkey and again got stuck here until the weather got cleared for 2 more days, and then on 17/05 we finally took a helicopter ride to the Everest Base Camp.


expid: KCHN22101
peakid: KCHN
year: 2022
route1: HW Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Toshiyuki Yamada
sponsor: JAC Tokai Kangchung Nup Expedition 2022
ascent1: 4th
approach: Lukla->Namche->Renjo La->Gokyo
bcdate: 2022-04-12
smtdate: 2022-04-23
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2022-04-27
campsites: BC(13/04,4750m),ABC(14/04,4980m),Biv1(22/04,5500m),Smt(23/04),Biv2(23/04,5600m)
achievment: 1st ascent of NW Face
agency: Khangri Trek
routememo:
  Approach: Lukla, Namche, Thame, Renjo pass (5300m), Gokyo.

  BC   13/04  4750m (Gokyo)
  ABC  14/04  4980m
  Biv1 22/04  5500m
  Biv2 23/04  5600m at the col between Kangchung Sar and Nup (in descent). 
  Smt  23/04  by both members at 4 pm.


  04/04: KTM
  07/04: Lukla
  09/04: Namche Bazar
  10/04: Thame

  12/04: Gokyo (via Renjo Pass). Tried to set up BC same as British did in 2019 (Paul Ramsden’s attempt), but global warming made glacier really bad to traverse. So Gokyo was chosen as the BC.

  14/04: ABC set afoot of the NW Face. Was difficult to cross the glacier. ABC would be used for gear stashing and scouting the wall. After 8 continuous days of walking, decided to take some rest days.

  Acclimatization up to 5500m on the south side of the mountain, with bouldering session at 4800m. Made a reconnaissance of the descent on the south side of the peak, not a descent line to Chola Pass.

  Climbing details (22-24 April): 

  First intended a line straight at the center of the North Face (Ramsden’s attempt in 2019), abandoned due to poor ice conditions. Went further to the right onto the NW Face, in the vicinity of the lines attempted in 2014 by a Czech party (Martin Klestinec, David Kovarik, Tomas Svoboda) up to 5900m, then in 2016 by a Japanese party (Yasushi Yamanoi, Takaaki Furuhata, Manabu Toyama) up to 5650m.

  22/04: the previous night, duo slept afoot of the face, coming from Gokyo. At the end of this first climbing day, bivouacked at 5500m.

  23/04: climbed 11 pitches on a mixed wall up to the summit’s shoulder. From there reached the summit glacier in 3 pitches, then crossed the summit knife-edge for 3 more pitches (“The summit ridge was longer than we expected”), reaching the summit at 4 pm. They descended to the col between KCHN and KCHS, where they bivouacked. The hardest day.

  24/04: went back down to Gokyo.

  27/04: packed ABC and went down to Gokyo.

  28/04: Gokyo to Namche.

  New line: 900m/ED/M5/WI4. Team had great conditions for the climb.

  Left ABC/BC on 27/04.

  Sherpas: None
  Oxygen:  Not taken, not used
  Records: 1st ascent of the NW Face


expid: LHOT22103
peakid: LHOT
year: 2022
route1: W Face
route2: S Col-W Face
nation: India
leaders: Sunil Nataraj
sponsor: 8K Expeditions Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2022
countries: France, Iran, Israel, Malaysia, Mexico, Nepal, Norway, UK
smtdate: 2022-05-15
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-221-21)
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(15,17,22/05)
agency: 8K Expeditions
primid: EVER22121
routememo:
  Report from Yorick Vion:

  Approach: EBC trail

  BC  21/04  5350m
  C1  24/04  6076m
  C2  25/04  6500m
  C3  12/05  7100m 
  C4  13/05  7906m

  EVER Smt on 14/05 by Yorick Vion and Tsering Sherpa at 5 am.
  LHOT Smt on 15/05 by Yorick Vion and Guru Gengen Sherpa at 6 am.

  Acclimatization:

  24/04: first sleep at C1
  25/04: first sleep at C2
  26/04: touched C3 then back to sleep at C2
  27/04: C2 to BC.

  Spent a week alone in BC.

  Summit schedule: 

  11/05: BC to C2
  12/05: C2 to C3
  13/05: C3 to C4. Started at 19:30 from C4 for the top. 

  14/05: summit of Everest reached at 4:30-5 am with Tsering Sherpa, stayed between 30-45 min. Back to C4 in the morning at 8 am. Stayed there one hour. Then went down at 7700m to Lhotse advanced camp.

  15/05: started at 2 am, summit of Lhotse reached with Guru Gengen Sherpa at 6 am, stayed on top half an hour. Back to C4 with his Sherpa, then to C2 ushering down a very tired client of the agency (Aziz Abdileilidaghi).

  16/05: C2 to BC
  17/05: left BC.

  Nadine Laborde left the expedition prior to the end.

  Oxygen:
    EVER: C4 to summit to C4, with sleeping at C4 on the day before the summit.
    LHOT: advanced 7700m camp to summit back to 7700m.

  Other Everest members:

  Marie-Nadine Laborde: Climbed Lobuche East, then on the acclimatization day to C1, after beginning to climb a bit in the Icefall, she turned around and left the expedition.

  Thillaimuthu Nagarajan: High point at Balcony according to Vion.

  Other Lhotse members:

  Sunil Koratagere Nataraj: Climbed Everest, but didn’t attempt Lhotse.

  Thillaimuthu Nagarajan: Summited Lhotse with Yorick Vion (started Lhotse at 7 pm on the 14 May); reached Balcony on Everest as a high point.

  Jose Armando Navarrete Ulloa: Climbed Everest, but didn’t try Lhotse. Very tired on the way down, fell about 15m in the Yellow Band, stopped by the fixed rope.

  Tanya Louise Perret: Came up to a high point below the narrow/climbing section in the couloir (<8300m).

  Aziz Abdileilidaghi: Climbed Everest, didn’t go to Lhotse.


  Report from Kristin Harila:

  BC  17/05  5350m
  C2  19/05  6400m
  C3  20/05  7200m
  C4  21/05  7700m

  EVER Smt 2/05 by Harila, Pasdawa, Dawa (uncle of Lhakpa who owns of 8K) at 8:45 am

  Team left C4 at 1:40 am. Weather was not so good and it was very windy. There was only one other team on the mountain due to the high winds. They spent 32 minutes on the summit and started their descent to C4 at 9:17 am. They reached C4 at 11:15 am, rested there for 30 minutes and left again for the Lhotse summit push at 11:45 am. It was still windy. 

  LHOT Smt 22/05 by Harila, Pasdawa, Dawa at 5:43 pm

  Team spent about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to BC where they arrived at 5:30 am on 23/05.

  Left BC on 23/05 by heli to Dingboche (the plan was to fly to Makalu BC, but the weather was too bad so the heli landed in Dingboche where they stayed for one day). On 24/05 they took a helicopter to Makalu ABC.


  Daniel Wolfson was a client of Alex Abramov on the 8K permit.


expid: LHOT22106
peakid: LHOT
year: 2022
route1: S Col-W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Garrett Madison
sponsor: Madison Mountaineering Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2022
countries: UK
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Lobuje->Ever BC
bcdate: 2022-04-12
smtdate: 2022-05-21
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2022-05-24
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-221-06)
agency: Himalayan Guides
primid: EVER22106
campsites:
  BC(12/04,5350m),C1(20/04,6000m),C2(22/04,6440m),C3(17/05,7100m),C4(18/05,7900m),EVER.Smt(20/05),LHOT.Smt(21/05)

routememo:
  Approach: Pangboche, Lobuche

  BC  12/04  5350m
  C1  20/04  5800m
  C2  22/04  6440m
  C3  17/05  7100m tagged on 04/05
  C4  18/05  7900m

  EVER Smt 20/05  by members and Sherpas between 7:30 am and 8 am.

  Everest summit team left C4 at 1:30 am on 20/05. They decided to leave relatively late as there were not many people on the route. Weather was Ok. Not too windy, but cloudy; however, they got a view on the summit. Straightforward climb. All members descended to C4, where they stayed the night. The Everest team descended to C2 on 21/05 while the Lhotse team left for Lhotse at 1 am.

  Lhotse summited on 21/05 by members and Sherpas at 7:30 am. After the summit the Lhotse team descended to C2, where they arrived at about 2 pm.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C2 to top to C2 by members
    Taken and used from C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.


expid: LHOT22107
peakid: LHOT
year: 2022
route1: W Face
nation: UK
leaders: Tim Mosedale
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Lhotse-Nuptse Expedition 2022
approach: Renjo La->Kongma La->Everest BC (Mosedale team)
bcdate: 2022-04-14
smtdate: 2022-05-21
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2022-05-22
othersmts: Attempted Nuptse (NUPT-221-02)
campsites: BC(14/04,5380m),C1(20/04,6050m),C2(22/04,6500m),C3(20/05,7100m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
primid: NUPT22102
routememo:
  Mosedale and Dawa Tenji went direct from C3 at 8 pm on 20/05 to Lhotse summit. Summited at 6 am, stayed 45 minutes, then descended to C2 at 3 pm.

  They were the only people on the route, crystal clear skies and great conditions underfoot. They skipped C4 to take advantage of the weather window.


expid: LHOT22109
peakid: LHOT
year: 2022
route1: S Col-W Face
route2: W Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Lukas Furtenbach
sponsor: Furtenbach Adventures Lhotse Expedition 2022
approach: Heli to Khote->Mera Peak; heli from Khare to Everest BC
bcdate: 2022-05-04
smtdate: 2022-05-14
smttime: 0540
termdate: 2022-05-16
othersmts: Summited Everst (EVER-221-09)
agency: Iceland Trekking
primid: EVER22109
campsites:
  BC(04/05,5350m),C1(09/05,6000m),C2(10/04,6440m),C3(11/05,7100m),C4(12/05,7900m),EVER.Smt(13/05),LHOT.Smt(14/05)

routememo:
  Acclimatisation heli to Khote on 27/04. Mera Peak summit on 03/05 and another night at 6050m o 03/05. On 04/05 descent to Khare and heli flight to BC

  BC  04/05  5350m
  C1  09/05  5800m
  C2  10/05  6440m
  C3  11/05  7100m
  C4  12/05  7900m
  Smt	13/05  by all members apart from Morissey and Orchard between 6 am and  8 am  
             and 27 Sherpas. 44 people in total.

  Summit team left C4 at 9 am on 12/05. There was not too much traffic, but a few very slow people on the route. After the summit, most members descended to C2 where they arrived between 4 pm and 6 pm.

  Hauer stayed at C4 as he was going to Lhotse with Cosima Eggenberger on 14/05.

  Lhotse summit on 14/05 by Hauer, Eggenberger, Mingma, Nurbu Tsiring 5:40 am.

  Hauer and Mingma left Everest C4 at 11 pm on 13/05 and picked up Eggenberger and Norbu from Lhotse C4 at around midnight. The Lhotse couloir was very dry but straightforward. They descended to C2.


expid: LHOT22110
peakid: LHOT
year: 2022
route1: S Col-W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Mike Hamill
sponsor: Climbing the Seven Summits (CTSS) Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2022
countries: Australia, Canada
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Lobuje->Ever BC
bcdate: 2022-04-14
smtdate: 2022-05-13
smttime: 0545
termdate: 2022-05-18
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-221-03)
agency: TAGnepal Trekking
primid: EVER22103
campsites:
  BC(14/04,5350m),C1(23/04,6000m),C2(24/04,6440m),C3(10/05,7100m),C4(11/05,7900m),EVER.Smt(12,14,16/05),LHOT.Smt(13,15/05)

routememo:
  Approach: Pangboche, Lobuche, Ever BC

  BC  14/04  5350m
  C1  23/04  5800m
  C2  24/04  6440m
  C3  10/05  7100m
  C4  11/05  7900m

  EVER Smt: 12/05 by Ceppi, Woodward, Kincaid, Wolfe, Buchanan, Keagy, Hailes
            and Sherpas (see list below) between 5 am and 8 am.

  EVER Smt: 14/05 by Jane and Gabby Kanizay (mother, daughter), Hepburn and 
            Sherpas at 4:30 am.

  EVER Smt: 16/05 by Rostom (1st Egyptian lady), Anup Gurung, 2 Sherpa at 8 am.

  LHOT Smt: 13/05 by Kincaid, Woodward, Pemba Gyalje, 2 more Sherpas at 5:45 am.

  LHOT Smt: 15/05 by Gabby Kanizay, Tendi Sherpa, Kuzang, 1 more Sherpa at 6 am.

  12/05 summit team left C4 at 7:30 pm om 11/05. Most members descended to C4 after the summit and BC on 13/05.

  14/05 summit team left C4 at 6:30 pm and Gabby Kanizay left at 10 pm on 13/05. Members descended to C4 after the summit.

  16/05 summit team left C4 at 6 pm on 15/05. Members descended to South Col after the summit and BC on 17/05.


expid: LHOT22112
peakid: LHOT
year: 2022
route1: S Col-W Face
route2: W Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Sophie Lavaud
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks (SST) Lhotse Expedition 2022
smtdate: 2022-05-12
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(12-16,20,22/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
countries:
  China, Ecuador, France, Hungary, Japan, Mongolia, Oman, Pakistan, Poland, Russia, Singapore, Spain, UK, USA

routememo:
  Report from Sophie Lavaud:

  BC  19/04  5350m
  C1  23/04  6000m
  C2  24/04  6500m
  C3  26/04  7050m
  C4  13/05  7700m
  Smt 14/05 by Lavaud, Dawa Sangay at 8:30 am.

  Team left C4 at 12:30 am. Weather was Ok, but at about 7 am the winds were getting quite strong. They stayed about 5 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at 4:30 pm. On 15/05 back to BC. Left BC on 18/05 by trekking to Lukla.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C4 to top to C4 by Lavaud, Dawa Sangay.


  Report from Szilard Suhajda:

  Approach: Pangboche, Island Peak

  BC  16/04  5350m
  C1  21/04  6000m
  C2  22/04  6500m
  C3  28/04  7300m
  C4  13/05  7700m
  Smt 14/05  by Suhajda at 3 pm.

  Suhajda left C4 at 9:.30 pm. Conditions were good. It was windier than expected, especially at 9 am. Some people who came down from the summit advised him to turn back as it was too windy, but he kept on going. He was very tired though as he has spent about 4 hours to make his platform for his tent and only rested from 6 am to 9:30 am, which was not ideal. He felt very sleepy on his way up to the summit. He spent about one hour on the summit taking videos and photos.

  He descended to C4 where he arrived at about 7 pm. He rested until midnight and continued to C2, where he arrived in the morning. He spent the day at C2 and at 2 am on 16/05 he descended to BC. Left BC on 21/05 by trekking to Lukla.

  Sherpas: Not used
  Oxygen:  Not taken, not used


  Report from Naoko Watanabe:

  BC  16/04  5350m
  C1  20/04  6000m
  C2  21/04  6500m
  C3  12/05  6835m
  Smt 13/05  by Watanabe, Tenzing Lama Sherpa (Makalu) at 6:45 am.

  Summit team left C3 at 5 pm. Weather very good, conditions Ok. Straightforward, but hard climb. They spent about 30 minutes on the summit. Watanabe fell into the rope and lost one shoe. But a Sherpa from another team helped her put her shoe on again. They descended to C2, where they arrived at 4 pm. On 14/05 to BC. Left BC on 15/05 by  trek to Pheriche.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from 6520m to top to C3 by Watanabe (4 bottles).

  Sherpa: Tenzing (Matare) Lama Sherpa, Makalu


  Report from Guillaume Desombre:

  BC  26/04/22  5400m
  C1  05/05/22  6100m
  C2  06/05/22  6500m
  Smt 12/05/22  by Desombre, Nurbu Sherpa at 07/25 am.

  Summit team left C2 on the 11th at around 10 in the morning. Had a 4-hour break at C3 site before heading for the summit (left C3 at 7 pm). Reached C4 site around midnight where stayed 30 min. Conditions were more than Ok, moonlight during first half of the night. Low wind (protection thanks to the couloir) except once reached summit. Stayed on 5-10 min, then descended to C2 arriving around 4 pm (lunch break at C3 site).

  Started using O2 at C3 on the way up (7000m) and stopped at C3 on the way down.

  Left BC by heli on 15/05.


expid: LHOT22114
peakid: LHOT
year: 2022
route1: S Col-W Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Ronald Quintero
sponsor: Himalayan Ascent Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2022
countries: Honduras
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Ever BC
bcdate: 2022-04-18
smtdate: 2022-05-13
termdate: 2022-05-19
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-221-32)
agency: Himalayan Ascent (Satori Adv pmt)
primid: EVER22132
campsites:
  BC(18/04,5350m),C1(29/04,6000m),C2(30/04,6480m),C3(14/05,7050m),C4(15/05,7950m),EVER.Smt(12/05),LHOT.Smt(13/05)


expid: LHOT22117
peakid: LHOT
year: 2022
route1: S Col-W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Ben Jones
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2022
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Lobuje->Ever BC
bcdate: 2022-04-13
smtdate: 2022-05-19
smttime: 0520
termdate: 2022-05-20
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-221-12)
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks (SST pmt)
primid: EVER22112
campsites:
  BC(13/04,5350m),C1(24/04,6000m),C2(27/04,6440m),C3(15/05,7100m),C4(16/05,7900m),EVER.Smt(18/05),LHOT.Smt(19/05)


expid: LHOT22119
peakid: LHOT
year: 2022
route1: S Col-W Face
nation: UK
leaders: Phil Crampton
sponsor: Expedition Himalaya & Himalayan Guides Lhotse Expedition 2022
countries: Australia, USA
smtdate: 2022-05-21
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(21/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Garth Miller and Wangchu Bhote summited Lhotse at 10:30 am after summiting Everest the day before at 10:45 am.

  Robert Kay only went 1 hour into the Icefall before terminating his attempt.


expid: MAKA22101
peakid: MAKA
year: 2022
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Georgia
leaders: Archil Badriashvili
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks (SST) Makalu Expedition 2022
smtdate: 2022-05-09
campsites: BC(4800m),ABC(5700m),C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(09,12,20,24,28/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
countries:
  Argentina, Australia, Brazil, China, France, Iran, Italy, Kosovo, Mexico, Nepal, Pakistan, Poland, Russia, Taiwan, UK, USA

routememo:
  Report from Yuri Contreras:

  BC  23/04  4800m
  ABC 25/04  5700m
  C1   --    6100m
  C2  29/04  6500m
  C3  10/05  7500m
  C4   --	   7800m
  Smt 12/05 by Contreras, Gonzalez del Castillo at 9:45 am, Kotlyar, Reza Shahlaee, Carlos Santalena, Lakpa at 9:45 am

  Summit team left C3 at 8 pm on 11/05. The rope was fixed to the summit by SST Sherpas and Alpenglow. At 7900m where the French Couloirs starts they heard someone shouting out of a crevasse. Carlos Santalena had fallen into a crevasse. Vladimir Kotlyar took out a small rope and made a pully system to get Carlos out. They did and that was the point where Carlos started to use oxygen. Otherwise straightforward climb. They spent about 30 minutes on the summit and descended to C3, where they arrived at 3 pm.

  On 13/05 Contreras and Gonzalez descended to BC. At about 5800m on the rocky moraine they used a fixed rope to arm wrap down. Gonzalez was first and when Contreras started his way down, the rope broke. He fell about 6 metres into Gonzalez who broke his fall. He wore a buff on his head so they could not see the extend of the hole in his head. Despite his injury he walked to BC from where they called Global Rescue, but they said they could not fly due to bad weather. Silvio Mondinelli and all the other people at BC cleaned the wound and bandaged him. Contreras was bleeding heavily. On 14/05 at 8 am a helicopter came to pick him up and flew him to Lukla where he received stitches in the hospital. According to Contreras it was like in Vietnam War. While Doctor Anees was stitching him up the helicopter was waiting to take him to Kathmandu, so he was in a hurry. In Kathmandu, he went to Norvic Clinic where he stayed for one night.

  When Contreras was picked up by helicopter, Gonzalez took a later helicopter with Simone Moro to Dingboche and then to Lukla. She was stuck in Lukla for 3 days and returned to Kathmandu on 17/05.

  Sherpas: 2

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Contreras [and Gonzalez]
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C4 by Sherpas.


  Report from Grace Tseng:

  ABC by heli from Kathmandu.

  ABC 07/04  5700m
  C1  08/04  6200m
  C2  09/04  6700m
  C3  10/04  7500m
  Smt 12/04  by Tseng, Nima [Gyalzen] at 2:30 pm.

  Summit team left C3 at 8 pm on 11/04. Straightforward climb. They stayed for about 15 mins on the summit and descended to BC where they arrived at 12 midnight. Left BC on 13/05 by heli to Dingboche.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Tseng and Nima.


  Report from Reza Shahlaee:

  Approach: Trekked from Num

  BC  23/04  4800m
  ABC 25/04  5700m
  C1  28/04  6100m
  C2  29/04  6500m
  C3  10/05  7500m
  C4   --	   7800m
  Smt 12/05  by Shahlaee, Lakpa Temba Sherpa, Thomas Bhote at 9:30 am.

  Summit team left C3 at 9 pm. Straightforward climb. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to C3 where they arrived at 2 pm. On 13/05 to BC. Left BC on 14/05 by heli.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Shahlaee, Lakpa Temba no O2 (his regulator was broken).


  Report from Uta Ibrahimi:

  Approach: Trekked from Num.

  BC  23/04  4800m
  ABC 25/04  5700m
  C1   --	   6100m
  C2  29/04  6500m
  C3  10/05  7500m
  C4   --	   7800m
  Smt 12/05  by Ibrahimi, Chinjung Bhote at 5 am.

  Summit team left C3 at 8 pm. Straightforward climb, however, just below the summit there was a hold up and they waited there for about half an hour. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit and they descended to BC where they arrived at 4:30 pm. 
  Left BC on 14/05 by heli.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Ibrahimi and Bhote.


  Report from Maya Sherpa:

  Approach: Trekked from Tumlingtar.

  BC  23/04  4800m
  ABC 25/04  5700m
  C1   --    6100m
  C2  29/04  6500m
  C3  09/05  7500m
  C4  11/05  7800m
  Smt 12/05  by Maya Sherpa, Pasang Sherpa at 7 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 7.30 pm. Weather was good and some of the SST clients left from C3. Straightforward climb. After the summit they descended to C3. The following day they descended to BC. Left BC on 14/05 by heli.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Maya and Pasang [Ongdi].


  Report from Silvio Mondinelli:

  Approach:  Trekked from Num.

  BC  23/04  4800m
  ABC 25/04  5700m
  C1   --    6100m
  C2  29/04  6500m
  C3  10/05  7500m
  HPt 12/05  8300m by Manni at 10 am.

  Mondinelli reached 8100m and turned around because of cold feet. Manni reached 8300m and turned around due to cold feet as well. Left BC on 14/05 by heli.

  When Yuri Contreras arrived at BC with his gash in his head, Mondinelli was instrumental in looking after his wound.

  Sherpas: None 
  Oxygen:  Not taken, not used.


  Report from Shehroze Kashif:

  ABC 23/05  5700m by helicopter from Kathmandu
  C1   --	   6300m
  C2  26/04  6600m
  C3  27/05  7500m
  C4   --	   7800m
  Smt 28/05  by Kashif and Namja Bhote at 6:45 am.

  Team left C3 at 7:30 pm on 27/05. After the summit team descended all the way to ABC where they arrived at 6 pm. Left BC on 29/05 by helicopter.

  Oxygen: From C3 to top to C3 by Kashif and Namja Bhote.


  Report from Georgian Facebook page (translated):

  Dream come true at Makalu and our first ever ascent to the 5th peak of the earth, 8486m. Getting high on the black pyramid. Of course without the oxygen helper!.

  Two of the three, Giorgi Tefnadze and Bakar Gelashvili were the first to be treated at the summit of Makalu with a 7-man international team, and I believed in the name of a successful organizer and learned my lesson. The expedition returned safely to Tbilisi, and at the top the flag of Ukraine was unfurled along with Georgia to show our support!

  On expedition walk: Journey started from Kathmandu by drive, mountainous road (900m - 5700m) walked both forward and back. April 12th we conducted base camp at the bottom of Macaloo at 5700m. After this, we were the first ones to make our way to the first and second camps (6450m), then up to 7000 metres, then to camp 3 (7450m) and finally to camp 4 (7600m), did a lot of hard work and marked the way. After that, the Sherpas hung their ropes up to 8000 meters (here they met ice and one person died, they landed), the next force was made by the united Sherpas and the team of Ecuadorian highland Estaban "Topo" Mena, they took the rope to the top balcony S and they have landed. Then in the storm that was supposed to crown us at the end of the summit we were in and the peak day was chosen May 9th.

  The road to the summit that goes all the way to Tibet is long and tedious, the technical difficulty is above 8200 meters, the weather was good for this hike, though windy and cloudy sun. We left the fourth camp at midnight. At this moment we all gathered together, so 10. I walked all night long (more of a struggle) by myself until 6 am due to the strange deterioration of consciousness and freezing hazards that drained me all night. I decided to come back. Bearers were on the French Couloure this time, Sherps ran the rope on the last stretch and at 9:40 am the boys climbed the summit! He raised the flags of Georgia and Ukraine in high spirits, Georgian wine was there too!.

  Although I have learned a lot throughout the process, I consider my failure to climb and return 8000 meters a personal loss, as a friend of George and Bakari and the organizer of the expedition I am proud that the expedition successfully and peacefully, without strategic mistakes and injuries, and the wishes of previous generations came true, Georgians on Makalu. We went up, and did a great job!


  From Sebastian Satka's Facebook page:

  A couple of years ago I had already made a teaser to Seven Summit Treks and we were going to go with Luciano Badino Eexpeditions, but the pandemic came and we couldn't even go to the corner.

  In the middle of March this year I received an email from Seven Summit Treks asking me if I was going this year, as there was a large group and the fee of the permit wasn't that expensive. And just like those things that get you out of comfort from day to day, that email was the slap to put the team together and in a week I was already landing in Kathmandu, I couldn't believe I was going up alone, without sherpas, nor O2 the Makalu. And I think I still don't dimension the fact that I've been there in the most beautiful way to climb a mountain.

  I wasn't really that alone. On the way I met a wonderful group with whom we share a lot, there was even a small tango class at 7500 meters above sea level.

  I decided to use the stationary ropes since they were just there and I didn’t mean to do anything “weird”. For me being there in those conditions was enough. Every day was the height routine: more than 6 litres per day, staying dry and warm, seeing that the tent was armed bomb test and walking carefully not to mess up or not to get one into a crack and so far everything was going very well.

  Unfortunately a respiratory infection has put me out of the game.

  I had slept 2 nights at 7500m above ground level and it felt great. I did an "attempt to summit" which actually the idea was to hit height to get down to the C.B. and rest to do the summit attempt. But if I was feeling good that day, I would keep going all the way up. Passed C4 and already started to feel a bit tired, decided to go back to C3, sleep for a while and back to C.B. Then the cough, fever and constant waiting didn't let me go. I was in the C.B. for a few days with the hope of healing, but it wasn't.

  All events that can occur in an ascension of such features must be accepted. It was all over for me. Or maybe, thanks to that cough, it all started.

  I had the opportunity to meet Simone Moro and at a lunch he filled me with recommendations for upcoming climbs. Keep polishing and planning the next step.


  Report from Catherine Vulliez:

  BC  15/04  4800m
  ABC 17/04  5650m
  C1  21/04  6500m
  C2  
  C3   --    7400m
  Smt 09/05  by Vulliez, Gelashvili, Tepnadze and Nuru Wangchhu at 10:50 am.

  Vulliez and Nuru Wangchu left C3 on 08/05 at 22:50 (Gelashvili, Tepnadze and Badriashvili started from C4, around 10:45 pm when we arrived there). Clear night, not cold, fog when we arrived at the top of the French Couloir, little wind only around fore=summit, very hot on the way down. With Nuru, I spent nearly 20 minutes at the summit, we descended to C3. With Nuru, reaching it at around 5 pm. Left BC on 15/05 by walking out. Used O2 from 6800m on the way up and down.

  Vulliez was a client of Satori Adventures on the SST permit.


  Report from Jon Gupta:

  ABC 17/04  5700m by heli Ktm-Pheriche-MAKA BC
  C2  18/04  6600m
  C3  19/05  7500m
  Smt 20/05  by Gupta, Booth, Lakpa and Tashi at 4:30 am.

  Team set out from C3 at 21:00 on 19/05, summited at 4:30 am on 20/05. Stayed 30 minutes. Warm, lite winds, very dry. Back to BC by mid-day. Left BC on 21/05 by heli.

  Gupta and Booth used O2 from/to 6600, Sherpas from/to 7500m.


expid: MAKA22102
peakid: MAKA
year: 2022
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Adrian Ballinger
sponsor: Alpenglow Makalu Expedition 2022
countries: Ecuador, Switzerland, USA
approach: By heli to Hillary BC (ABC)
bcdate: 2022-04-18
smtdate: 2022-05-09
smttime: 0900
campsites: ABC(18/04,5700m),C1(21/04,6300m),C2(24/04,6600m),C3(08/05,7450m),Smt(09,12,24/05)
agency: Himalaya Vision
routememo:
  Report from Adrian Ballinger:

  Team left C3 at 2 am. Calm in night, windy after 5 am. Cloud/whiteout after 5 am. Passed all climbers by 7900m and my two Sherpsa and I broke trail the rest of way. Fixed rope ended before top of French Couloir. We fixed 300m rope to finish couloir and the entire summit ridge to top. Conditions on summit ridge were challenging.

  First team on top for season! And the I made first ski descent. Due to technical nature of summit ridge and other climbers coming up, I downclimbed from true Summit approx 15m (passing climbers coming up). Then put on my skis to descend. I took skis off one more time to make a 60m rappel on rock in the middle of French Couloir. Other than that I kept skis on for entire descent to crampon point at 5800m. I occasionally used fixed line as a hand line where route was pure ice or rock. Reached ABC at 6:30 pm. Ballinger left BC on 14/05.

  Ballinger and Dorje Sonam fixed 300m to summit.
  Mena and Palden Namgye fixed 1000 in French Coulior.

  Oxygen used from 7500m to summit.


  Report from Topo Mena:

  Approach: Jeep to Num, trekked to BC.

  BC  14/04  4800m
  ABC 18/04  5700m
  C1  21/04  6300m
  C2  22/04  6600m
  C3  05/05  7500m
  C4  12/05  7800m
  Smt 24/05  by Perez, Mena at 8:45 am without bottled oxygen

  Perez and Mena left C4 at 8 pm on 23/05. They reached 7900m at around 11 pm but it was very windy. They decided to turn back due to the strong gales, but after descending for about 100m the wind abated and they continued their summit push. They had to break trail a bit, but conditions were good overall.

  They spent about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they rested for an hour and continued to C2 where they arrived at 6 pm. On 25/05 they descended to BC.

  Mena had already summited on 12/05 with Alpenglow [with Christine Ochs]. On that summit push Perez reached 8250m. She got too cold and descended to ABC while the others in the Alpenglow team continued to the summit. She stayed at BC until she left for the next summit push on 22/05. Mena and Perez descended directly to C2 on 22/05 and C4 on 23/05.

  After his 12/05 summit success, Mena flew to Kathmandu on 14/05 and returned to ABC to climb Makalu again with Perez and without supplemental oxygen.

  Left BC on 26/05 by helicopter.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


  Report from Karl Egloff (SVM):

  BC  12/05  4800m (by helicopter)
  ABC 18/04  5700m
  C1  20/04  6300m
  Smt 09/05  by Egloff and Miranda at 14:33.

  ABC to Summit 17hr, 18min to ABC 25hr 48min round-trip, no oxigen, no Sherpas. From C3 on lots of wind, from C4 foggy, from French Coulour perfect weather. Previous summit attempt on 05/05. Left BC on 14/05.


expid: MAKA22103
peakid: MAKA
year: 2022
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Mingma Dorchi Sherpa, Sanu Sherpa
sponsor: Pioneer Adventure Makalu Expedition 2022
countries: France, Germany, India, Mongolia, USA
smtdate: 2022-05-09
smttime: 1015
campsites: BC,ABC,C1,C2,C3,Smt(09,15,24,28/05)
agency: Pioneer Adventure
routememo:
  Report from Sebastian Fuchs:

  Approach: Jeep to Num, trek to BC 
  Route: NW Ridge

  BC  17/04  4800m
  ABC 18/04  5700m
  C1  23/04  6300m
  C2  25/04  6600m
  C3  09/05  7500m
  Smt 15/05  by Fuchs at 1:05 am.

  Fuchs left C3 at 6:50 pm on 14/05. Conditions were perfect. About -20 C. He was completely alone on the route. He summited earlier than expected and was in the dark. He took 6hr 15min to reach the summit. He saw lights on Everest. He spent a few minutes on the summit as his feet were very cold and descended to ABC. He reached C3 at 4 am, dismantled it; reached C2 at 8 am and dismantled it and reached ABC at about noon.

  Hess reached C3 on 09/05 during the acclimatization rotation. During the summit rotation she reached about 6900m and decided to abandon her summit push as she felt too weak to go to the summit. She turned around and collected her gear from C2 and descended to ABC.

  When Fuchs returned from the summit, Hess met him at crampon point. They left BC on 17/05 trekking to Num, jeep to Biratnagar.

  Sherpas: None
  Oxygen:  Not taken, not used


expid: MAKA22104
peakid: MAKA
year: 2022
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Norway
leaders: Kristin Harila
sponsor: 8K Expeditions Makalu 2022
countries: Nepal
approach: By helicopter to ABC
bcdate: 2022-05-24
smtdate: 2022-05-27
smttime: 1045
termdate: 2022-05-30
campsites: ABC(24/05,5700m),C2(26/05,6600m),C3(27/05,7500m),Smt(27/05)
agency: 8K Expeditions (Pioneer Adventure pmt)
routememo:
  Report from Kristin Harila:

  ABC 24/05  5700m
  C2  26/05  6600m
  C3  27/05  7500m
  Smt 28/05  by Harila, Pasdawa, Dawa (uncle of Lhakpa who owns of 8K) at 10:45 am.

  Team left C3 at 11:15 pm on 27/05. When the team left C3 they could not see the rope and they spent some time looking for it. After about three hours they found the rope and Harila was relieved to see that they were going the right way. Deep snow, hard going. They spent about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to BC where they arrived at 9 pm.

  Oxygen: From 7100m to top to 6800m by Harila; from C3 to top to C3 by Sherpas.


expid: MAKA22105
peakid: MAKA
year: 2022
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Mingma Gyalje Sherpa
sponsor: Imagine Nepal Makalu Expedition 2022
countries: Canada, China, Pakistan, Peru, USA
smtdate: 2022-05-28
smttime: 0800
agency: Imagine Nepal
routememo:
  Report from Sirbaz Khan:

  Approach: Heli to ABC

  ABC 18/05  5700m
  C2  19/05  6600m
  C3  21/05  7500m
  Smt 28/05  by Khan and Mingma G at 8 am without O2, and other members with O2.

  Khan was already acclimatised from his previous expeditions to Kangchenjunga. He started his summit push from ABC on 23/05 and ascended to C2 on that day. But later that night it was clear that the weather was not favourable for his envisaged summit on 26/05. On 24/05 he descended to ABC and rested till 26/05.

  On 26/05 he reached C2 and on 27/05 C3. Khan and Mingma G left C3 at 9 pm. Weather and conditions good. They reached the summit at 8 am and spent one hour at the summit. They descended to ABC where they arrived at 7 pm. They left BC by heli on 29/05.

  Rzucidlo reached C2, but had problems with her eyes and abandoned the expedition. She returned to BC where she stayed for 2 nights. On 26/05 she took a helicopter back to Kathmandu.


  Report from Victor Rimac:

  ABC 21/05  5700m by heli from Lukla
  C2  22/05  6600m
  C3  23/05  7300m
  C4  27/05  7500m
  Smt 28/05  by Rimac (together with Mingma G and Khan) at 8:30 am.

  Rimac was at C3 for his first summit push, but he decided not to go as he was coughing too much. So he descended to ABC on 24/05. He rested for two days and left ABC for his second summit push on 26/05. 

  Rimac left C4 at 11 pm. Straightforward climb. Spent about 30 mins on the summit and descended to BC where he arrived at 7:30 pm. Left BC on 29/05.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used on LHOT and MAKA.

  Rimac was a client of Elite Expeditions on the Imagine Nepal permit.


expid: MAKA22106
peakid: MAKA
year: 2022
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Baljeet Kaur
sponsor: Baljeet Kaur's Makalu Expedition 2022
approach: By helicopter to ABC
bcdate: 2022-05-26
smtdate: 2022-05-28
smttime: 0705
termdate: 2022-05-29
campsites: ABC(26/05,5700m),C2(26/05,6600m),C3(27/05,7500m,Smt(28/05)
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  Report from Baljeet Kaur:

  ABC 26/05  5700m (stopped here for 5 hours)
  C1         6300m (skipped this stage)
  C2  26/05  6600m
  C3  27/05  7500m
  Smt 28/05  by Kaur and Mingma Thindu Sherpa at 7:05 am.

  Oxygen: Kaur used from C3 and Sherpa from C3.

  Left BC on 29 May. We took a helicopter from Makalu BC to Kathmandu airport.


expid: NUPE22101
peakid: NUPE
year: 2022
route1: SE Buttress
nation: USA
leaders: Vitaliy Musiyenko
sponsor: Sherpa Tracks Vitaliy & Nick Nuptse Expedition 2022
bcdate: 2022-05-04
smtdate: 2022-05-12
termdate: 2022-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to bad weather and avalanche danger
othersmts: Climbed Amphu Gyabjen (new route), Island Peak, Ama Dablam (AMAD-221-01)
campsites: BC(04/05,4700m),ABC(05/05,5200m),C1(10/05,6000m),C2(11/05,6300m),xxx(12/05,6500m)
agency: Adventure Sherpa Tracks
routememo:
  Nuptse East attempt of Moonlight Sonata route with intention to make the first alpine-style ascent of it. Weather was horrible, it snowed every day and we bailed due to fears of high avalanche danger.


expid: NUPT22101
peakid: NUPT
year: 2022
route1: Khumbu Icefall (diversion)
nation: France
leaders: Marc Batard
sponsor: Marc Batard Nuptse Expedition 2022
approach: Everest BC trail
bcdate: 2022-04-19
smtdate: 2022-04-29
termdate: 2022-05-10
termnote: Abandoned at 6020 due to various illnesses of Batard
campsites: BC(19/04,5170m),IC(22/04,5600m),C1(28/04,5920m),xxx(29/04,6020m)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  Approach: Everest BC trail

  BC  19/04  5170m at Gorak Shep
  IC  22/04  5600m close to Pt 5656m of Kielkowski. 
  C1  28/04  5920m
  HPt 29/04  6020m  by Marc and Alan Batard, Pasang Sherpa and Tenji Sherpa.
             "New route", using French 1984 direct variant to point 6587m, 
             later used also by Dujmovits (1989).

  Plan for the “new route” was to switch the icefall towards Everest normal route’s Western Cwm.     
         
  Permits issue: Authorities wanted Batard’s team to take a permit for Nuptse and Everest, knowing the very beginning of the ascent via the “new route” was located on Nuptse’s footstep. Angry to be required to pay for both permits, Batard tried to obtain a permit for Everest as a courtesy for his services to Nepal economy, writing official letters to the Ministers of Finance and Tourism. [This was denied.]

  Member high points:

  Marc Batard reached 6020m on 29 April, decided to abandon on the 8 May, left BC on the 10 May.

  Stephane Massis, Bruno Gardent and Pascal Tournaire arrived at BC at the end of April. Went up as high as to Intermediate Camp, lack of acclimatization. Were members of the filming team. Left BC on 9 May.

  Alan Batard:    to 6020m, left BC on 17 May.
  Passang Sherpa: to 6020m, left BC on 17 May.
  Tenji Sherpa    to 6020m, left BC on 17 May (son of Passang Sherpa). 

  Schedule of the expedition (by Marc Batard): 

  20/04: went up to the deposit of last autumn (5300m), with ropes still there.

  21/04: Rested in BC.

  22/04: Went up to sleep at the Intermediate Camp (IC) at 5600m. Using a variant
         of the “Nuptse Trikhang” first ascent route by the Swiss in 1956.

  23/04: Climbed up to “Sungdare peak” (5880m, christened so by the team, same as 
         Nuptse Trikhang) and back to sleep at the IC.

  24/04: Back to BC for rest.

  25/04: Rested in BC.

  26/04: Visit to the EBC. Marc’s beginning of illness, took some antibiotics.

  27/04: Marc, Alan, Passang and Tenji to IC. Marc feeling “correct”.

  28/04: Quartet established C1 at 5920m, above the difficulties 
         (above “Sungdare’s peak”). Marc feeling weak.

  29.04: Quartet went a little further up to 6020m. Marc, very tired, went 
         back down to BC.

  30.04: Rested in BC.

  01/05: Marc took helicopter (“not proud of it”) to Namche to consult a doctor. 
         Bronchitis treated with antibiotics; doctor made some physio tests (oxygen 
         saturation perfect). Also got to a dentist.

  02/05: Rested in Namche.
  03/05: Was joined by journalist Nathalie Lamoureux in Namche.
  04/05: Rested in Namche.
  05/05: Took the helicopter at 9 am back to BC.
  06/05: At BC, Marc still sick, vomiting, insomnia, lost of appetite.
  07/05: BC rest.
  08/05: Marc decided to abandon the expedition, due to “lack of motivation”.
  09/05: Marc, Pascal, French journalist Antoine Chandelier and others went up to 
         Kalapattar, they (Antoine, Nathalie) trying to remotivate Marc to try for
         the ascent.

  Batard return to Kathmandu:

  10/05: Marc left BC at 7:30 am, reaching Milongo on that day.

  11/05: Milongo to Toktok. In the latter, asked to the lodge’s owner about 
         an old path, the owner telling him it wasn’t closed.

  12/05: Toktok to Surket (under Lukla). In Surket, asked to a Sherpa if it was 
         possible to use the old path. Sherpa wanted to go with him, but his wife
         against it. Marc started at 12:30 pm, crossing the gorge via the old trail,
         losing himself twice, crossing the river via a cable, before reaching 
         Bupsa at 8 pm (4 to 5h officially for that section).

  13/05: On the elections day, reached Taksindu to meet a Lama friend, but locals
         told him the Lama was sick in KTM.

         In Nuntala, another village, Marc met with some old Sherpa friends who
         found him a seat in a jeep, which reached Paphlu at 11 pm.

  14/05: Obtained via his Nepali friends a plane ticked from Paphlu to KTM.

  16/05: Left KTM for France.

  End of the expedition (by Alan Batard): 

  Alan and Passang went up to C1 to remove it, Alan getting back at the expedition’s high point to remove ice axes and ice screws left there. Passang, Tenji and Saila Sherpa (newly arrived) went up again to Intermediate Camp to remove it.

  In conclusion:

  Last autumn’s equipment (which had equipped “Sungdare’s peak”) was further improved this time, with Alan equipping the way down to a breach.

  The new route is mostly ready, just need to come back doing the short section in traverse giving access to the Western Cwm.

  If demarches with Nepal ministries don’t find a positive outcome for an Everest permit as a courtesy, Marc thinks he will come back just for Nuptse, finishing the new route’s little missing portion.


expid: NUPT22102
peakid: NUPT
year: 2022
route1: NE Spur
nation: UK
leaders: Tim Mosedale, Garrett Madison
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Lhotse-Nuptse Expedition 2022
countries: USA
approach: Renjo La->Kongma La->Everest BC (Mosedale team)
bcdate: 2022-04-14
smtdate: 2022-05-07
termdate: 2022-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 7820m due to dangerous cornice, lateness of day, exhaustion and lack of fixed rope
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-221-07)
campsites: BC(14/04,5380m),C1(20/04,6050m),C2(22/04,6500m),C3(06/05,6846m),xxx(07/05,7820m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Mosedale, Jay Whiting, Steve Graham, Dawa Tenji Sherpa, Dawa Phurten Bhote, Pemba Chirri Sherpa ended up at the right-hand end of the summit ridge and it was too late, too slow to get there, not enough oxygen and energy to safely continue.

  Breaking trail took us longer to climb and sapped energy levels. Other than that there was also bullet hard ice to deal with and freshly covered ropes.

  Left BC on 22/05 by heli to Ktm.

  Oxygen: 
    Mosedale members used from C3 to high pt to C3.
    Mosedale Sherpas used from 7500m to high pt to 7500m.


  Garrett Madison, his clients Chase Merriman and Becks Ferry with Aang Phurba reached the same altitude as Mosedale at around 1 pm.

  According to Ferry, they ran out of equipment to safely fix the final snow cornice. Also, looking at the ridge, it appeared dangerous to attempt to cross it for an extra few metres. 

  "Nuptse is an absolute gem of a climb. It is quiet and feels remote despite its proximity to Everest. It is unrelentingly steep with a mixed terrain of climbing. Steep snow slopes. Ice and mixed rocks. It’s a more technical mountain - more so than any of the 8000m."

  Oxygen:
    Madison members used from C3 to high pt to C3.
    Ang Phurba Sherpa used from 7820m and in descent.
    


expid: NUPT22103
peakid: NUPT
year: 2022
route1: NE Spur
nation: India
leaders: Debasish Biswas
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks (SST) Nuptse Expedition 2022
approach: Lukla->Dole->Thagnak->Nirekha->Zongla->Everest BC
smtdate: 2022-05-11
termdate: 2022-05-17
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m+ due to route difficulties
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3(10/05,7100m),xxx(11/05,7500m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Report from Debasish Biswas:

  Approach: Dole->Macharmo->Thagnak->Climbed Nirekha->Tried Kangchung Chola->Zongla->Ever BC

  BC
  C1
  C2
  C3  10/05  7100m
  HPt 11/05  7500m (approx).

  Rotation up to C2-C3. Finally to C3 around 7100m on 10 May of Nuptse. Started from C3 at 9 pm summit push on 11 May, reached at the top of Nuptse ridge at 11 am. He stayed up there one and half hours to identify the actual summit point, but could not do it, there are many pinnacles.

  Climb abandoned on 11 May due to difficulty of identifying the main peak. Left BC on 17 May by Heli to KTM.

  Oxygen: From C3 by Biswas.

  Sherpas: Lakpa Wongdi and Taraman Tamang.

  Other peaks: Nirekha by Biswas.


expid: PHUK22101
peakid: PHUK
year: 2022
route1: S Ridge from W
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Mi-Gon
sponsor: Korean Phu Kang Expedition 2022
ascent1: 1st
approach: Koto->Meta->Kyang->Phugaon->Yak Kharka->BC
bcdate: 2022-04-22
smtdate: 2022-05-04
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2022-05-05
campsites: BC(22/04,5000m),ABC(24/04,5400m),C1(30/04,5800m),C2(03/05,6200m),Smt(04/05)
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal
routememo:
  Original Plan: The team plans to climb unclimbed Phu Kang and two other peaks 6566m and 6670m (approx) west of Phu Kang ridge.

  Approach: Drove to Koto, trekked to Meta, Kyang, Phu, Yak Kharka.

  BC  22/04  5000m (below Sangha Peak)
  ABC 24/04  5400m
  C1  30/04  5800m
  C2  03/04  6200m
  Smt 04/05  by Kim Mi-Gon, Kang, Jang, Lee, Kim Min-Soo, Chhiring Sherpa 
             and Dawa Tshering Sherpa at 10:30 am.

  The Phu Kang Korean team set up its BC at the base of Sangha Peak. The ABC was on a snowfield away eastward walk down about 200m and continued along the glacier about 4km. C1 was on the glacier mixed with icefall. C2 further eastward hiked up a snow peak of 60° slope and behind the ridge below 50m. From C2 hiked up 300m then slope down the ridge 400m. Then climb up the snow face with seracs, small crevasses about 800m on south side to the summit. The team consisting of five members and two Sherpas made its summit push from C2 at 2 am on 4 May. At 10:30 am the team was on the summit. All stayed on the summit for 2 hours, then started bit of snowfall and went down to C2 where they arrived at 3:30 pm. Slept there. Next day on 5 May all went down to BC. At the beginning weather was fine with mild wind, but on descent started snowfall and that became heavy when they reached C2.

  Leader KIM said that the GPS shows the peak in Tibet, 150m to 200m beyond the border.

  Left BC on 5 May for Phu.

  Fixed rope from C1-C2 and above some places (1400m).

  Route: South side.

  Record First ascent.


expid: PUTH22101
peakid: PUTH
year: 2022
route1: NE Face
nation: UK
leaders: Michael Francis
sponsor: Makalu Adventure Putha Hiunchuli Expedition 2022
smtdate: 2022-05-19
smttime: 1400
termnote: Only Sherpa rope-fixers summited
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,Smt(19/05)
agency: Makalu Adventure
routememo:
  Only three Sherpa rope-fixers summited n 19 May at 2 pm.

  Bad weather prevented the rest of the team from summiting.


expid: RATC22101
peakid: RATC
year: 2022
route1: E Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Pavel Matousek
sponsor: Czech Ratna Chuli Expedition 2022
approach: Besisahar->Khare->Chame->Koto->Meta->Phu->South BC
bcdate: 2022-05-01
smtdate: 2022-05-12
termdate: 2022-05-16
termnote: Abandoned at 5960m due to bad weather and waist-deep snow
othersmts: MATOUSEK PAVEL
campsites: BC(01/05,5100m),ABC(02/05,5400m),C1(05/05,5800m),xxx(12/05,5960m)
agency: Campobase Trek
routememo:
  Approach: Besisahar->Khare->Chame->Koto->Meta->Phu->South BC on 30 April at 5050m.

  BC  01/05  5100m
  ABC 02/05  5400m (deposit)
  C1  05/05  5800m
  Hpt 12/05  5960m by Misek, Hradil and Belik.

  Climb abandoned on 13 May due to bad weather and waist-deep snow.

  Left BC on 16 May. Cejp and Strakova left on 4 May.

  Route wanted to try from eastern ridge.

  The team while looking for the climbing route on the western side of the mountain that was not visible enough to chose as it was all time foggy and what they could see was the difficult part of climbing to reach the western ridge. Then they decided to explore the route from the eastern side. So on 10 May three members Misek, Hradil and Belik continued towards eastern side and moved C1 to 5800m. On 11 May they went further east ward and spent night more or less same altitude of C1. On 13 May they found it is difficult to continue on that side due to waist deep fresh and wet snow and decided to call off the climb and went down to BC. Weather was foggy most of the time while they were trying to reach the eastern ridge.

  Matousek suffered from severe toothache resulting swollen face; he was under antibiotic and same was the case with Sedlarik. Novakova herself suffered from headache. Cejp and Strakova suffered from HAS with headache and vomit. Suk too suffered from HAS, but did want to climb.


expid: SAUL22101
peakid: SAUL
year: 2022
route1: SW Face-SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Daijo Saito
sponsor: Japanese Saula Himal Expedition 2022
ascent1: 1st
approach: Manaslu BC classic trail->Sho
bcdate: 2022-04-23
smtdate: 2022-05-03
termdate: 2022-05-05
campsites: BC(23/04,2880m),C1(01/05,4600m),C2(02/05,5469m),Smt(03/05)
achievment: 1st ascent of Saula
agency: Hoshi Treks
routememo:
  Approach: Manaslu BC classic trail->Sho

  BC  23/04  2880m at Sho village
  C1  01/05  4600m
  C2  02/05  5469m
  Smt 03/05  by both members.

  Acclimatization done on the route of ascent, up to C1.

  The basic route is the same than the 2018 Himalaya Camp Team (Daijo Saito was a member of it), just using this time 2 camps instead of 3. Then the route goes towards the col between Saula and Peak 6199m, ending via the SW Ridge. Thanks to the reconnaissance of 2018, the climb was made possible within a few days. Route is moderately difficult, requiring more stamina.

  01 May: Sho village to C1
  02 May: C1 to C2
  03 May: C2 to summit to C2. The last 50m to the summit were an ice wall 
          where the duet did some ice climbing (ice grade 3+).
  04 May: C2 to Sho.
  05 May: Left for the Manaslu circuit trek.

  Route: SW Face to SW Ridge

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


expid: TENS02301
peakid: TENS
year: 2002
route1: S Pillar (up), SE Ridge-SW Face (down)
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Radek Lienerth
sponsor: International Expedition to Tengkangpoche
ascent1: 1st
approach: Khumbu Valley->Thami
bcdate: 2002-10-20
smtdate: 2002-10-23
termdate: 2002-10-30
othersmts: Attempted Tengkangpoche (TKPO-023-01)
campsites: BC(20/10),Biv1(21/10,5100m),Biv2(22/10,5600m),Smt(23/10)
agency: Everest Adventure
primid: TKPO02301
routememo:
  After abandoning Tengkangpoche, Lienerth and Toloch left BC 20 Oct and went to Tengkangpoche village, west of Thami and climbed South Pillar of Tengi Rongi Tau to a summit of 6140m on the ridge to the 6940m main summit; climbed from 21 Oct to this subsidiary summit on 23 Oct (with biv at 5100m and 2nd biv at 5600m both the ridge) and descended via SE Ridge to SW Face. Then they climbed to top of Parchemo with Martin Heuger on 29 Oct via East Ridge and back to BC and all climbing finished.


expid: TENS04301
peakid: TENS
year: 2004
route1: SE Ridge (to 6100m)
nation: France
leaders: Erwan Le Lann
sponsor: French Tengkangpoche Expedition 2004
approach: Thami Og
bcdate: 2004-10-06
smtdate: 2004-10-21
termdate: 2004-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to lack on interest
campsites: BC(19/10),Biv(20/10),xxx(21/10,6100m)
agency: Arun Treks
primid: TKPO04301
routememo:
  BC  at Thengpo
  Biv on North Face (rock pillar).

  From 10th Oct started fixing route and taking up equipment below making biv and sleeping on face. 18th tried to fix more ropes higher but on small ledge hip-deep snow and every crack in the face had snow but really impossible to put pitons at every crack. Climbed 100m higher and then abandoned attempt to climb higher. Had had big snowfall on 15th and avalanches were coming down while were on face fixing rope and taking gear up; lost one bag of gear but no one hurt. Route was in middle of North Face on big rock pillar direct to top and climbed about quarter of rock ridge which leads to a 300m snow ridge to summit.

  Then all three members went to small peak north northwest of Tengkangpoche on opposite of valley: Point 6180m on Schnieder Khumbu map; local name is Pahamlahaka. Climbed SE Ridge to 6100m, not to top because "not interesting" flat snow; down SE Ridge. At high point on 21st Oct with one biv on way up and another down.


expid: TENS21301
peakid: TENS
year: 2021
route1: S Pillar (to 6000m)
route2: SE Ridge (to 6000m)
nation: Italy
leaders: Francois Cazzanelli
sponsor: Italian Tengkangpoche-Ama Dablam Expedition 2021
approach: Lukla->Namche->Thami
bcdate: 2021-10-18
smtdate: 2021-10-23
termdate: 2021-11-06
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m (acclimatization only for Tengkangpoche)
othersmts: Summited Tangkangpoche (TKPO-213-02) and Ama Dablam (AMAD-213-08)
campsites: BC(18/10),Biv1,xxx(23/10,6000m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
primid: TKPO21302
routememo:
  22-23/10: the group split into 2 groups in order to ascend Yasa Thak (6141m on Finn map, SE shoulder of Tengi Ragi Tau, peak without permit; Schneider map 6180m, 6187m on other map; also called Tengi Ragi Tau South, or Pahamlahaka).  

  The first group (Cazzanelli, Favre, Gheza) climbed the S Pillar to a shoulder of the SE Ridge, located at c.6000m ESE to the top (from this shoulder, the last bit to the top consisted in a large snow ridge). Route name: “Himalayanos Desperados” (1200m/5+/M5/80°). Enjoyed good rock quality during the climb, with 2 pitches up to 5+ (French rock grade) on first day. Also found 4 pitons obviously put as descent belays (a previous rope had tried the route?). Put a bivouac above that. Had considered the option of staying on the pillar up to the top, but there was a lot of snow, a perturbation announced and it would have meant an other bivouac which the team couldn't afford. So instead, on the second day, the trio chose to turn right into the SE Face to find some quick going mixed ground. As the trio had almost reached the end of the traverse to start with the SE Face, a spontaneous cornice fall followed by rock falls was close to hit them. The would descend in the tracks made by their friends on the E Ridge. Cazzanelli thinks the route could become a local classic, offering a nice climb on good rock close to the lodge.

  Meanwhile the 3 other members had been up by the SE Ridge, after having put a camp afoot of the ridge. Reached the same 6000m shoulder, after having broken the trail in big amounts of snow. Even triggered a big avalanche in which they luckily just lost some walking sticks. Delicate snow conditions.

  After a short study, it seems that the pitons found on the S Pillar may have left whether by Radek Lienerth and Alexandr Toloch during the first ascent of “Tengi Ragi Tau South” in 2002.


expid: AMAD22302
peakid: AMAD
year: 2022
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Alina Pekova
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks (SST) Ama Dablam Expedition 2022 (Team 1)
countries: Australia, Austria, Nepal, Poland, S Korea, Turkey, UK, Ukraine
smtdate: 2022-10-21
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,Smt(21,24-25/10)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Report from Antonina Samoilova:

  Approach: From Cho Oyu BC to Namche to Ama Dablam BC by heli.

  BC  22/10  4600m
  C1  23/10  5700m
  C2  --
  C3  24/10  6200m
  Smt 25/10  by Samoilova and Sona Sherpa at 7:20 am.

  Other peaks: Manaslu, Cho Oyu.

  Summit at 7:20 am on 25/10. Started from C3 at 4 am. It was a very good summit day. Back to BC at 7 pm. Left BC on 27/10.

  Hired: Sona Sherpa


expid: AMAD22303
peakid: AMAD
year: 2022
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Alain Caron
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks (SST) Ama Dablam Expedition 2022 (Team 2)
smtdate: 2022-10-30
campsites: BC,C1,C2,Smt(30-31/10,01-03/11)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
countries:
  Australia, Germany, Greece, Iran, Ireland, Italy, Nepal, Netherlands, Poland, S Africa, Spain, Thailand, UK

routememo:
  Report from Joachim Kohn:

  BC  25/10  4600m
  C1  31/10  5800m
  C2  01/11  6200m
  Smt 02/11  by Kohn and Phurba Sherpa at 7:36 am.

  Summit team left C2 at 4 am, summited at 7:36 am, stayed 5 minutes, then descended to ABC at 8 pm. Sunny all day, cold, hard snow, gusty wind during night at C3; tentmate (Wes Constable) had 4 fingers to frostbite. Left BC on 10/11 by trekking.


  Report from Priti Bhusal:

  BC  31/10  4300m
  C1  01/11  5400m
  C2  --
  C3  02/11  6400m
  Hpt 03/11  6500m  by Bhusal and her Sherpa.

  Turned around at 6500m due to HAP. Evacuated by heli from high camp on 03/11.


expid: AMAD22304
peakid: AMAD
year: 2022
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Turkey
leaders: Berrin Yildizoglu
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks (SST) Ama Dablam Expedition 2022 (Team 3)
smtdate: 2022-11-09
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,Smt(09,14-15,18-19,25-26/11)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
countries:
  Belgium, Canada, Chile, Germany, Israel, Lithuania, Malaysia, Netherlands, Poland, Spain, Switzerland, USA

routememo:
  Report from Saskia Oelsner:

  BC   10/11  4530m
  C1   16/11  5450m
  C2   --
  C3   17/11  6400m
  Smt  18/11  by Oelsner, Roepke, Pasang Rinzee, Satkauskas, Mingmar Dhondup,
              Nima Tashi, Phuthele at 8 am.

  Summit team left C3 at 4 am. It was very windy when they left, but the wind died down during the climb. Straightforward climb. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to C1 where they arrived at 7 pm. The descent took them so long due to the crowds that were stuck at the abseil points. On 19/11 back at BC and left BC on 20/11 trekking to Lukla.

  Oelsner, Roepke and Pasang Rinzee were part of an expedition organised by German SummitClimb. They hooked up with other members of SST. SummitClimb used to work together with Everest Parivar, however, they seemed to have switched to SST.

  Lukas Nussbaum was another member of the SummitClimb team, however, he left the expedition in Lobuche and never attempted Ama Dablam.


  Report from Elisabeth Röösli:

  BC  15/11  4600m
  C1  17/11  5800m
  C2  18/11  6100m
  Smt 19/11  by Röösli and Dawa Sange at 8 am.

  Team left C2 at 23:30 on 18/11, summited at 8 am, stayed 20 min, then descended to C1. Sunny day, wind on the top (forcasted around 40-45 kph). Dry grey couloir, very good snow conditions further up.


  Report from Hernan Leal:

  BC  04/11  4600m
  C1  06/11  5700m
  C2  --
  C3  08/11  6200m
  Smt 09/11  by Leal, Lhakpa Chhiri and Jeevan Tamang at 12:10 pm.

  Team left C2 at 8 pm on 08/11, summited at 12:10 pm, stayed 20 min, then descended to C3. Windy at the beginning, then quiet and clear. Left BC on 11/11 by trekking.


  Report from Sophie Lenaerts:

  BC  14/11  4600m
  C1  17/11  5800m
  C2   ---
  C3  25/11  6400m
  Smt 26/11  by Steven Maginelle and Sofie Lenaerts summit at 10:30 am.

  Windy in morning but low wind at summit. Blue sky, beautiful day. All tents/high camps where placed by our members, no Sherpa use. Tent in ABC was blown away. No use of C2.

  Francis Coudere and Tom De Caluwe summited on 25/11 at 2 pm.

  First summit push from C1 by Francis, Steven and Sofie, 18/11 2 am. Highest point reached 6600m 2 pm. No summit. Returned to C1.


expid: AMAD22307
peakid: AMAD
year: 2022
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Christopher McNiel
sponsor: Elite Expeditions Ama Dablam Expedition 2022
smtdate: 2022-10-31
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,Smt(31/10,02,04,06-07,09-10,14/11)
agency: Elite Exped
countries:
  Australia, Canada, France, India, Netherlands, Mongolia, Nepal, Romania, Singapore, Switzerland, USA, Venezuela

routememo:
  Report from Sandra Christen:


  BC  30/10  4800m
  C1  08/11  5800m
  C2  --
  C3  09/11  6400m
  Smt 10/11  by Christen, Zyba, Pur Bahadur Gurung and Phurba Sonam at 11:45am. 

  Summit team left C3 at 6 am, summited at 11:45 am, stayed 8 minutes, then descended to C1. Sunny day, the night before strong wind, during climb little wind only.


expid: AMAD22308
peakid: AMAD
year: 2022
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Herbert Wolf
sponsor: Furtenbach Adventures Ama Dablam Expedition 2022
countries: Australia, Germany, USA
bcdate: 2022-10-20
smtdate: 2022-10-27
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2022-11-01
othersmts: Climbed Nirekha on 18 Nov
campsites: BC(20/10,4850m),C1(22/10,5850m),Smt(27,31/10)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  Approach: 
    Lukla-Namche-Thami-Renjo La-Nirehka-Cho La-Pheriche-Ama Dablam BC.
    Flash Team: Namche-Ama Dablam BC.

  BC  20/10  4850m
  C1  22/10  5850m
  Smt 27/10  by 4 members and 4 Sherpas at 9:30 am
      31/10  by 1 member and 2 Sherpas at 8 am.

  Both summit teams started from C1.


expid: AMAD22309
peakid: AMAD
year: 2022
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Garrett Madison
sponsor: Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam Expedition 2022
countries: Canada, Estonia, Iceland, New Zealand, S Africa
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Ama Dablam BC
bcdate: 2022-10-26
smtdate: 2022-11-05
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2022-11-08
othersmts: Summited a 5608m peak near Ek Rate Danda after Ama Dablam
campsites: BC(26/10,4530m),C1(30/11,5450m),C2(03/11,6097m),C3(04/11,6400m),Smt(05/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  26/10  4530m
  C1  30/11  5450m
  C2  03/11  6097m
  C3  04/11  6400m
  Smt 05/11  05/11 by Ming Dorje, Jangbu (former icefall doc), Ang Phurba, Shere,
             Thapa Magar, Dawa Sherpa and clients at 8 am.

  Team left C3 at 4 am. They spent about 15 mins on the summit and descended to C1. Next day BC.

  Smith, Dagg, Patel, Ramsden were a day behind the summit team as they stayed the night at C2 on 04/11 and attempted on 06/11. They reached about 6500m, but were all too tired and descended back to C2. On 07/11 at BC.

  Alex Panceo set off with them, but turned back at about 6440m due to breathing difficulties

  Geirsdotti, Hesser, Walters reached C2, but abandoned climb due to breathing and sickness.

  Rzucidlo only reached C1 due to respiratory problems.

  Team left BC on 08/11 some by heli from BC, some by trekking.


expid: AMAD22311
peakid: AMAD
year: 2022
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Tim Mosedale
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Ama Dablam Expedition 2022 (Team 2)
countries: Australia, Canada, China, Italy, Japan, Malaysia, Poland, Russia, Sweden, USA
smtdate: 2022-11-11
campsites: BC,C1,C2,Smt(11,13-14,20,25/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Jen Willis Facebook - 29 Nov 2022

  We are now enroute back to Lukla, and I am feeling so blessed to have had this amazing almost two months in the mountains. Absolutely loved just trekking along today. Wandered solo most of the day and was so relaxed, happy, content.

  Sharing Tim’s post with an update that meant many of our team did not get the chance to summit- a couple of days after the first half of our group made our summit bid, there was a rockfall on the grey coulior (between camp 2 and 3) that led to severed ropes, meaning the rest of our crew was unable to climb this expedition. Thankfully no-one was injured, but it was pretty devastating for those yet to make their summit bid to have to farewell Ama Dablam without this opportunity. So much energy, time, money and emotional investment goes into undertaking a trip like this, but there are never any guarantees as these mountains carry their own energies too. I feel fortunate I had the opportunity to climb, humbled to think I was just on these ropes climbing this route, grateful everyone is heading homeward bound safely, and sad for our crew who lost their summit bid, especially those who were back for a second attempt. All things considered, spirits overall are good in our group. We have an amazing group who have accepted and supported one another with such openness and respect. Truly an experience of a lifetime for me!


expid: AMAD22313
peakid: AMAD
year: 2022
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Klaas Wierenga
sponsor: Makalu Adventure Ama Dablam Expedition 2022
countries: Australia, Austria, Azerbaijan, Belgium, France, Hungary, India, Poland, Spain, UK
smtdate: 2022-10-30
campsites: BC,C1,C2,Smt(30/10,01/11)
agency: Makalu Adventure
routememo:
  Akash Goel email - 30 March 2023

  We we’re leaving C3, Adam was 1 hour behind me. Suddenly snow balls started coming from the slope. Unfortunately he got hit with an ice slab (approx. 1x1 ft); he couldn’t continue and was heli-rescued.

  As I told you there 3-4 other people in team but we got separated as we went to Island Peak, they didn’t. I don't know full names, but

    Lisa (French, sumitted)
    Hugo (French, no summit, returned from C2 food poisoning)
    Klaas (Netherlands, no summit, returned to the from C1 or C2 not sure, 
      didn't feel well)
    Laszlo Csomor (Romania, submitted alone without any guide)


expid: AMAD22320
peakid: AMAD
year: 2022
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Maxwell Bond
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Ama Dablam Expedition 2022
bcdate: 2022-10-20
smtdate: 2022-11-04
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2022-11-07
campsites: BC(29/10,4530m),C1(02/11,5450m),C3(03/11,6400m),Smt(04/11)
agency: Beyul Adventure
routememo:
  BC  29/10  4530m
  C1  02/11  5450m
  C3  03/11  6400m
  Smt 04/11  by Beckwith, Bond, Phunuru, Sonam Tashi at 6 am.

  Team left C3 at 3 am. Straightforward climb. Stayed for about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to BC where they arrived at about 5 pm (7 pm for Bond and Nicole Sims).

  Sims reached C3 on 03/11. She had bronchitis and decided to stay at C3 and descend with the summit team.

  Left BC on 07/11 trekking to Phortse, heli to Lukla.

  Sherpas:
    Phunuru Sherpa, 16/05/1980, Phortse
    Sonam Tashi, Phortse


expid: AMAD22327
peakid: AMAD
year: 2022
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Toshiyuki Yamada
sponsor: JAC Tokai Ama Dablam Expedition 2022
approach: Jeep KTM to Kharikhola, trekking from there
bcdate: 2022-10-17
smtdate: 2022-10-22
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2022-10-23
campsites: BC,C1,C2,Smt(22/10)
agency: Khangri Trek (Highland Expeditions pmt)
routememo:
  Ama Dablam speed ascent. Summit on 22/10 at 9:30 am. Base camp nearby usual BC at 4620m, this season there were two base camps because of the crowds. Started at 4 am. At 6:45 am at C2. There he changed from approach shoes to mountain boots. In total 5h 42m to summit.

  Good weather, clear night. On the summit light wind but good views. On the top maybe for 3 minutes. Back down to BC at 4620m at 1:30 pm. Had to wait for about 20 minutes at Yellow Tower because of traffic jams. Two days before climbed to C2 once to check the route, but never slept at C1 or C2.

  Used fixed ropes on ascent and descent.

  Funded by Japanese Alpine Club Tokai Section.


  From Explorersweb:

  On October 22, Toshiyuki Yamada almost bagged the Fastest Known Time on Ama Dablam. The Japanese citizen and Canadian resident climbed the normal Southwest Ridge route in 5 hours 42 minutes. His total time Base Camp-summit-Base Camp was 9 hours, 32 minutes.


expid: AMAD22330
peakid: AMAD
year: 2022
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Thomas Summer
sponsor: Himalaya Vision Ama Dablam Expedition 2022
countries: Iraq
smtdate: 2022-10-28
campsites: BC,C1,C2,Smt(28/10,02/11)
agency: Himalaya Vision
routememo:
  BC  31/10  4530m
  Smt 03/11  by Summer and Karma Sherpa at 9 am.

  Team left BC at 9 pm 02/11. They changed their boots from light walking boots to heavy boots at C2 where they arrived at about 2 am. There was a hold up at C2 where they waited for a while. They were using the fixed ropes. Once on the summit, there were about 10 people. They spent about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to BC, where they arrived at 6 pm. Let BC on 5 Nov.

  Ascent time:  12 hours
  Descent time:  9 hours


expid: AMAD22333
peakid: AMAD
year: 2022
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Markus Amon
sponsor: Austrian Mera Peak & Ama Dablam Expedition 2022
bcdate: 2022-11-08
smtdate: 2022-11-12
termdate: 2022-11-16
campsites: BC(08/11,4600m),C1(11/11,5800m),C3(12/11,6400m),Smt(12-13/11)
agency: Himalayan Trails (Satori Adventures pmt)
routememo:
  Markus Amon was on the summit on Saturday, 12/11 (alone). Amon and Leitner climbed up to C3 together. Leitner then stayed there and spent the night while Amon continued on to the summit. Amon then descended to BC after the summit.

  Leitner was o the summit on Sunday, 13/11 (approx 11:45 am) from C3 and then descended to C1 and on Monday from C1 down to BC. Sunny weather, but very windy. alone from C3 to the summit.

  Martin Hornegger only reached above C2 site (had to stop because of high altitude sickness).


expid: AMAD22335
peakid: AMAD
year: 2022
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Georgia
leaders: Avtandil Tsintsadze
sponsor: Satori Ama Dablam Expedition 2022
countries: France, India, Italy, UK
smtdate: 2022-10-23
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,Smt(23-24,30/10,05-06,18,20,24/11)
agency: Satori Adventures
routememo:
  Saba Samadashvili Facebook - 7 Nov 2022

  Namaste. So, on November 5th at 9 am I climbed this dablam.

  Had to climb the mountain alone. Avto and I went the entire expedition without sherps and porters, carrying heavier bags than sherps. You may note that this hill is a rather technical mountain with its hills, yellow or gray towers, slopes and steep slopes. Avtom in the 2nd camp (6100m) decided that it was best to stay and move on alone, which actually increased the expedition's chances of success.

  One more sad fact happened, at the base we got to know French mountaineer Jean-Marc Morschel, the most decent and lovely man! He, at the age of 62, died of heart attack in the 3rd camp after leaving from the writer.

  This story also affected us a lot, because we were very friends! RIP Jean Marc Morschel!


  From mteveresttoday.com:

  Nov 04, 2022: Morschel Jean-Marc, 61 a French national has died at Camp III on Mt Ama Dablam. According to sources, he stayed a night at Camp 3 after returning from the summit late in the evening yesterday. He died in Camp 3.

  Jean-Marc scaled Ama Dablam along with his guide on Thursday afternoon and returned to Camp 3 late in the evening.


expid: AMAD22337
peakid: AMAD
year: 2022
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Alexey Cherdantsev
sponsor: Snowy Horizon Ama Dablam Expedition 2022
smtdate: 2022-10-18
campsites: BC,C1,C2,Smt(18,25,29-31/10,02-03,09,15,19/11)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
countries:
  Australia, Austria, Bangladesh, Croatia, Czech Republic, France, Germany, Italy, Nepal, Poland, S Korea, Singapore, Switzerland, UK, USA


expid: AMAD22401
peakid: AMAD
year: 2022
route1: SW Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Xu Fei-Yue
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks (SST) Ama Dablam Expedition Winter 2022-2203
countries: Italy, Spain
smtdate: 2022-12-18
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  From Simrik Air Facebook:

  Today, Simrik Air Helicopter successfully rescued foreign tourists stranded in the Ama Dablam mountain in the eastern Himalayan range of Nepal. The rescue operation was led by Pilot-In-Command Capt. Siddartha Jang Gurung, Chhiring Dhenduk Bhote and Ang Tashi Sherpa.

  The rescue mission was conducted to recover Mr. Jose Manuel Zapata Lopez, a tourist from Spain who had dislocated his leg while climbing Mt. Ama Dablam. Mr. Lopez and his crew were meant to reach the summit of Mt. Ama Dablam today, but his crampon (mountain spikes) slipped causing him to fall and dislocate his leg. The entire rescue mission was conducted in a height of 6300 meters where the helicopter couldn’t land, so the team long-lined and rescued Mr. Lopez.


expid: ANN422302
peakid: ANN4
year: 2022
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Ivan Aristov
sponsor: Russian Kuban Annapurna IV Expedition 2022
approach: KTM->Besisahar->Hongde by car, trek to BC
bcdate: 2022-10-18
smtdate: 2022-11-13
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2022-11-15
agency: Chatours Treks
campsites:
  BC(18/10,3800m),C1(21/10,4800m),C2(24/10,5450m),C3(25/10,6080m),C4(08/11,6500m),C5(11/11,7030m),Smt(13/11)

routememo:
  Report from Aleksandr Eliseev:

  Approach: KTM-Besisahar-drive to Hongde-trek to BC

  BC  18/10  3800m
  C1  21/10  4800m
  C2  24/10  5450m
  C3  25/10  6080m
  C4  08/11  6500m
  C5  11/11  7030m
  Smt 13/11  by Eliseev and Dergachev at 2 pm.

  The following six members reached C5 at 7030m:
    Oleg Afanasev, Pavel Chernov, Denis Aleksenko, Sergei Melnikov, 
    Andrei Dergachev, Aleksandr Eliseev

  The other members reached C4 at 6500m: 
    Ivan Aristov, Andrei Glushkov, Denis Kuzmin, Andrei Filimonov, 
    Vitaliy Davydych, Igor Romanov, Gennadiy Dolgov, Yuri Panov

  The first summit attempt was on 12 Nov. Left C5 at 9 am. There were all 6 of us. We made it to 7150m, then turned back because the winds were too strong about 60/70kms. We spent one hour climbing up, saw it was impossible, then descended back to our 2 small tents at C5. The others didn’t want to try again because it was just too cold and windy. On 12 Nov they all went down to BC whilst us two remaining continued the climb to the summit on 13 Nov.

  The second attempt was on 13 Nov. Team left at 8 am. The weather was very clear, but the wind was different – sometimes silent, sometimes strong. It made us very nervous. We hesitated many times. We spent about 1 hour on the summit. The conditions were the best. Clear. Little bit of wind. We descended to C4 at 6500m where the snow cave was set up. Arrived at 7 pm. Next morning left at 9 am from snow cave, made way to BC on 14 Nov. Arrived there BC 6 pm.

  Our first idea: we wanted to climb for C4 to the top in one shot. But it was not easy, it was too long. On 9 Nov we tried to go to the top from C4. We ascended to about 7000mt at about 11 am. It was too late to continue. If we kept climbing we would be descending in the dark and the weather was going to be too cold, it was too risky. We returned to C4 at about 1.30 pm that day.

  The next day 10 Nov, we rested at C4. Snow cave was warmer and quiet and no wind, better than when you are in a tent. We can stand up, walk a little and cook. We can also watch cinema on our phones! The snow caves were difficult to make because the snow was hard, it took us 5 hours. We made two entrances, and inside there were two rooms with a corridor going through.

  Taam left BC on 15 Nov, walked one day to Hongde. Stayed there 1 night. Next day 16 Nov drove to Besisahar.

  We used 400n of fixed rope; little bit below C2, little bit below C5, little bit below C3. Ropes are still there. Too tired to clear the ropes. We were also too scared, too tense and our back packs too heavy.

  Most technical part was a little bit below C5, there was a snow wall about 15m, it was vertical, but snow, no ice. I used snow bars like ice tools in both hands and dug steps with my feet. Ice tools were of no use and wouldn’t have done the job. The snow was not hard enough to make anchors.


expid: BARU22301
peakid: BARU
year: 2022
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Tirtha Tamang
sponsor: Bright Way Treks Baruntse Expedition 2022
countries: Austria, France, Hungary, Japan, UK
bcdate: 2022-10-12
smtdate: 2022-10-20
campsites: BC(12/10,5426m),C1(18/10,6000m),C2(20/10,6450m),xxx
agency: Bright Way Treks
routememo:
  Team made up of several groups that climbed separately.


  Eric Hinderer Facebook:

  The time to come back has come!

  4th visit to Nepal and once again its bundle of joys, surprises in spite of many coincidences.

  I consider myself lucky finally that the first 15 days of the trip were marked by rainy and then snowy conditions. (Thinking of the victims of Manaslu and the many trekkers stuck in the Dolpo among others).

  Thus we were able to benefit from a micro shooting window to reach the summit of Mera Peak (6461m).

  Then I leave my friends for the Baruntse base camp at about 5400m, all under the snow. 12/10 then we are.

  Long wait followed by 6 days to give time to the sherpas to secure the early parts of the ascent.

  October 18th, beautiful day to leave for camp 1! Long, trying but what a joy to arrive at the pass and see the Makalu facing us.

  10/19 staying at camp 1 finally to let the Sherpas continue attaching ropes.

  Then, another very beautiful day on 20/10 which allows us to reach camp 2 (about 6450m) and approach with shape and optimism, the summit (of course still 7/9 hours of walking) is ahead of us.

  Everything is ready to try. Expected departure around 1 am on October 21st.

  And then, phew! Wind, gusts with spikes of 80 mph.

  We decide to postpone until 22nd and 23rd. I just don't.

  This is how it is! It will be for another time!


expid: BARU22303
peakid: BARU
year: 2022
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Romania
leaders: Gabriel Baicus
sponsor: Glacier Himalaya International Baruntse Expedition 2022
countries: Spain
termnote: Abandoned near 7000m due to broken fixed rope
campsites: BC(5450m),C1(6100m),C2(6400m),Smt(Nov)
agency: Grand Himalaya Treks
routememo:
  The Romanians and Spanish climbed as one group in  early November. Gabriel Baicus report follows below.

  Gabriel Baicus Facebook (20 Nov 2022):

  We were almost the only expedition at that time on the peak of Baruntse (7152m). Just us and the giant we were about to climb.

  Baruntse is known for moody weather, especially for strong winds.

  Furthermore, climbing Mera (6471m) a few days before in a relentless wind made us think even more about what the peak window for Baruntse will look like.

  Experiencing a mix of feelings of ecstasy and fear that's hard to put into words.
  Since I was already acclimatized, I decided to go directly to camp 2, on principle to spend only one bad night at 6400m, which was confirmed with brio.

  The rest of the team gradually went up, camp 1, then camp where we regrouped.
  We had a short window of good weather during the night from 3rd to 4th November.
  Looking at the wind, when we arrived at camp 2, I said that there is no chance of leaving for the top.

  On the one hand, I was at peace with the idea that I tried, and the final decision is made by the bad weather, but, on the other hand, I was frustrated that I didn't have a real opportunity to go to the top.

  The plan was to leave at 2:30 am.

  We fell asleep at 7 pm. At 8:30 pm roughly, miraculously the wind stops.

  I couldn't believe it! Clearly, I felt like an invitation that I couldn't refuse.

  Despite the wind stopping, it was cold that night. -20 degrees here in the tent.

  Around 3 am we were able to mobilize ourselves and make our way to the summit. Out of the 6 we were only Kike and Pedro managed to keep it up. The others remained in the tent because they could not rest and were powerless to attempt the final ascent.

  According to some Sherpas, only one person (two, after others) would have reached the top this year. They went with those who fixed the route, about 10 days before we tried our luck.

  I had no idea what the route was like, what is the state of the fixed ropes, crevices, etc. I was going towards the unknown, in the middle of the night. We were about to find out.

  Kusang [Kaljang?] and I were in front checking the route after which we were broadcasting them through the radio to the others.

  In many portions the rope was buried in the snow and we could hardly get it "out to the light", in others it was missing completely and we had to be very careful.

  After about 3 hours of night climbing, the sun came out. The moment when everything changes, the moment when you catch life and start to enjoy the scenery around.

  The moment you start to get warm, especially because I desperately needed to warm my toes. I didn’t know what to do without thinking about it, and the thought that they would freeze would terrify me. That was a rough 3 hours in every way. I'm more depressed than ever.

  When it was close to the last portion, the ridge (the most complicated in the route) Kusang calls me and tells me that the rope is broken and that it is not worth the risk to try to move on.

  I am a persevere nature, that does not give up easily, but at that moment whatever convinced me to give up, I did.

  I also informed Pedro, the only one who continued, that there was no point in going up, and then we descended together to camp 2, from where we all returned to base camp.

  I think this is the first time I don't have feelings of frustration, remorse for not reaching the top, and that's a good thing.


expid: BARU22304
peakid: BARU
year: 2022
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Stefan Zerza
sponsor: Namas Adventure Baruntse Expedition 2022
countries: Australia, Netherlands
smtdate: 2022-10-23
campsites: BC(5450m),C1(6100m),C2(6400m),Smt(23/10)
agency: Namas Adventure (Glacier Himalaya pmt)
routememo:
  Three Sherpas summited with the rope-fixers on 23 Oct.

  The Austrians, Australians and Dutch climbed as one group as clients of Namas Adventure in mid-October.


expid: BARU22305
peakid: BARU
year: 2022
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Andrew Cook
sponsor: SummitClimb Baruntse Expedition 2022
countries: Australia, Germany, Spain,USA
bcdate: 2022-10-16
smtdate: 2022-10-23
termnote: Abandoned above high camp due to high winds
campsites: BC(16/10,5450m),C1(19/10,6100m),C2(20/10,6400m),xxx(23/10,7000m)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  SummitClimb Facebook

  Oct 23 - After 3 days in high camp pushed for summit tonight at 2 am, nobody of the team could make it due to high winds.

  Oct 22 - Update from Ang Dorjee. Baruntse team still at camp 2 for better wind. Weather forecast said tomorrow and the day after tomorrow the wind would slow down  So we will start our summit push tonight. Wish us good luck.

  Oct 20 - We are in camp 2 right now. If weather is good we will give a try on 21st October for summit push. Wish us good luck.

  Oct 18 - Rest day. Sherpas fixed rope to 2nd summit today. Expect to complete fixed rope to summit tomorrow. Summitclimb team commence climb tomorrow and ascend to camp 1.

  Oct 16 - Arrived baruntse BC. Rest day and puja ceremony tomorrow.


expid: BARU22306
peakid: BARU
year: 2022
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Jangbu Sherpa
sponsor: Mera Alpine Treks Baruntse Expedition 2022
countries: Germany, Spain
termnote: Abandoned at 7010m due to snowy conditions
campsites: BC,C2,C2,xxx(7010m)
agency: Mera Alpine Treks
routememo:
  Xavier Redorta Peix Faceboook (6 Dec 2022):

  Taking a breath at 7000m. From the Gokyo valley to the gates of Baruntse (7129m). Twenty-eight days of route that allowed us to reach 4 peaks over 5000m, crown Mera Peak (6462m), and reach the secondary peak of Baruntse (7010m). The main summit could not be done due to the last flank, which due to snowy and exposure conditions, has only been allowed once this season. Very good experience for Nepalese lands! See you all soon you geniuses! Health and long live the earth!


expid: BHEM22301
peakid: BHEM
year: 2022
route1: E Face of S Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Maud Vanpoulle
sponsor: Himalayan Travellers Ganchenpo Expedition 2022
countries: Austria, Germany
approach: Langtang Valley
bcdate: 2022-09-16
smtdate: 2022-09-29
termdate: 2022-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to AMS of Billon
othersmts: Attempted Ganchenpo (GANC-223-01)
campsites: BC(16/09,3830m),ABC(28/09,5300m),xxx(29/09,6000m)
accidents: Vigl and Billon AMS
agency: Himalayan Travellers Nepal
primid: GANC22301
routememo:
  Report from Lise Billon:

  Approach: Langtang Valley

  BC  16/09    3830m at Kyanjin Gompa
  ABC 28-29/09 5300m at footstep of Bhemdang Ri’s E Face
  Hpt 29/09    6000m on S Ridge of Bhemdang Ri by all members except Vigl.

  Fixed rope: none

  Climb abandoned on 29 Sept due to Lise Billon’s AMS.

  Left BC on 5 Oct.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used

  Other peaks: Bhemdang Ri

  Accidents, etc: 

  - Pulmonary edema’s beginning for Babsi Vigl during the acclimatization. 
  - AMS at circa 6000m (5950m according to Fat Map) for Lise Billon during 
    the climb on Bhemdang Ri.

  On Bhemdang Ri:
    Lise Billon, 6000m on 29 Sept
    Maud Vanpoulle, 6000m on 29 Sept
    Raphaela Haug, 6000m on 29 Sept
    Babsi Vigl, 5500m during round trips to Yala Peak.

  The team initially aimed to go for Pakistan, but following a visa problem, choose Nepal instead.

  Had a small duration of expedition (20 days round trip from KTM), so that the acclimatization process got pretty squeezed.

  Trekked from 14 to 16 Sept to Kyanjin Gompa.

  23-24 Sept: reconnaissance trips, back to Kyanjin on the next day, Babsi Vigl sick.

  Had some daily roundtrips to Yala Peak (5500m), sleeping maximum to 4800m.

  First intended various peaks and routes options, including Ganchenpo via its NE Face. Conditions there were bad (very dry), so the team went to search for another option.

  Attempt on Bhemdang Ri/Morimoto:

  The team intended this traverse: East Face of the South Ridge of Bhemdang Ri, by a line further to the right of FFME 2012 (which reached the main col); south to north traverse of Bhemdang Ri, then SSW Ridge of Kyungka Ri 1, with descent via its East Ridge.

  Expected weather window to be 5 days (from 30 Sept to 4 Oct) actually turned to be 3 days actually.

  27 Sept: all members except Vigl up to Morimoto BC, approaching with heavy loads.

  28 Sept: reconnaissance of the glacier, then back to high camp/ABC (5300m), still with heavy loads. Conditions were too dry afoot of the 2012 expedition’s line*, so the trio selected instead a line further to the right.

    *In 2012, a French FFME team already climbed the East Face to the col 
    afoot of the South Ridge of Bhemdang Ri:

    https://www.ffme.fr/montagne-canyon/montagne/equipes-nationales/enaf-2010-2012/

    Lise was meant to be part of the team back then, but couldn’t join it eventually.

  29 Sept: reached the South Ridge of Bhemdang Ri in warm temperatures. On the face, the trio had found remnants of old gear (which expedition?), one helmet, one piton, nylon ropes (Asian peak). Not ideal conditions from the ridge, but kept going on. At around 6000m (5950m according to Fat Map), Lise began to feel AMS, her getting to lose memory of the events (Raphaela was watching her). Climbed back down to sleep at high camp (5300m).

  Thought at first to be 50m close from the summit, but realized afterwards it was more than 100m. “The ridge was looking still long and much more technical than expected on a higher altitude”.

  30 Sept: back to Morimoto BC. Babsi Vigl joined the trio. 

  1st Oct: back to Kyanjin, the weather forecast turned very bad on this day, raining like hell, with thunderstorms. All-in-all, Billon’s AMS wasn’t a big deal in comparison with what the trio would have fought on Kyungka Ri’s expected summit day.

  After some rest days, on 5 Oct the quartet waited for the mules under the rain then walked back to Syabru Besi in the day.


  Maud Vanpoulle Facebook (7 Oct)

  It says that on expeditions you should be prepared to be surprised by the unexpected - and this is how our adventure began!

  Changing destination last-minute, from scarfs to short pants, from a remote basecamp to Italian-style cappuccino and the warm hospability of a nepali family and from a well researched goal to an area we knew nothing about, we faced surprises almost every day.

  The challenge to adapt to high altitude in limited time, the new experience to deal with monsoon and the animals of the jungle, the curiosity to dive into a new culture and the life of the locals, the joy to deepen new and persisting friendships, the flexibility and creativity to explore unknown conditions and come up with new goals, facing altitude sickness and taking good decisions together and choose our well-being over summit success.

  So…what had happened?

  Since Raphaela’s visa for Pakistan didn't arrive we shifted everything to Nepal in one day.

  As changing plans consumed some time, we had only a short time of acclimatization and therefore only one chance for the summit.

  This season in Nepal was far from good, retrospective we had a lot of rain...until a 5 day window arrived. We started super motivated, unfortunately without Babsi - she turned sick before.

  We turned around just before the summit as Lise got sick of altitude. But then we learned that we would have had to bail the next day anyways, as our 5 days window got shortened to 3 days. That's life.

  Nevertheless we had a great time. Always remember that the summit is just the cherry on the cake! Lots of laughing, lovely discussions and definitely a time to remember!


expid: CHEK22301
peakid: CHEK
year: 2022
route1: S Face-E Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiroyoshi Manome
sponsor: Japanese Chekigo Expedition 2022
bcdate: 2022-10-29
smtdate: 2022-11-06
termnote: Abandoned at 5950m due to exhaustion and winds
campsites: BC(29/10),Biv1(05/11,5400m),xxx(06/11,5950m)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  This team originally planned to attempt Chukyima Go (6258m), but switched to Chekigo after they arrived in the Rolwaling Valley.

  Manome and Kuroda climbed the S Face up to the E Ridge, before turning back to due to exhaustion and windy conditions.


expid: CHND22301
peakid: CHND
year: 2022
route1: S Side
nation: UK
leaders: Julian Freeman-Attwood
sponsor: British Chandi Himal Expedition 2022
campsites: BC(5000m),xxx
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
routememo:
  The Report of the British Ganglung Kangri 2 Expedition 2023

  2019, 2022 and 2023 Expeditions.

  All access to these source mountains is politically impossible from Tibet and we decided to find a way from the Nepal side via an unnamed glacier which we found in 2019. Julian and Nick Colton became the first onto the Angsi glacier but failed to cross it and access the mountain.

  We also tried to access from the west side in 2022 (via Chandi peak) but very severe snowfall all across Nepal and India during that post monsoon, put paid to that attempt.

  So, in 2023 we decided to go back, again in post monsoon period, to the 2019 base camp and push forward what we had already found out from there. This time Nick Colton and I were joined by Jim Lowther and Jim Fotheringham, both seasoned climbers and greater range expeditioners from the Lake District.


expid: CHOL22301
peakid: CHOL
year: 2022
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Pasang Lhamu Sherpa, Lisa Thompson
sponsor: Women's Cholatse Expedition 2022
countries: USA
approach: Namche->Phortse Tenga->Gokyo->Dragnag
bcdate: 2022-11-01
smtdate: 2022-11-05
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2022-11-06
campsites: BC(01/11,4800m),C1(03/11,5700m),ForeSmt(05/11,6390m)
agency: Xtreme Climbers
routememo:
  BC   01/11  4800m 
  C1   03/11  5700m 
  FSmt 05/11 by Pasang Lhamu, Thompson, Berenyi, Nima Doma at 1 pm.

  Team spent an extra night at C1 as the ascent was very hard and they were tired. It took them 7 hours to get there. On summit push, they left C1 at 2:30 am. The ropes were already fixed by other teams. Perfect weather. No wind, no cloud almost too hot. Route starts off on the rock which was the most technical part and then continues on the snow. Perfect conditions. Spent about 20 minutes on the fore-summit which was about 30m vertical distance away from the pinnacle. The snow was deep and it was not fixed and they did not have a way to fix it. They descended to BC where they arrived after dark.

  Left BC on 06/11 by foot to Phortse, 07/11 heli to Lukla.

  This was a true women’s expedition. The entire team was female (six porters, cook, kitchen girls).


expid: CHOY22302
peakid: CHOY
year: 2022
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Sona Sherpa
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks (SST)-14 Peaks Cho Oyu Expedition 2022
countries: Germany, Iran, Norway, UK, Ukraine
bcdate: 2022-10-15
smtdate: 2022-10-18
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to high winds
campsites: BC(15/10,5200m),C1,C2,C3,xxx((18/10,7200m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Report from Antonia Samoilova:

  Approach: By heli to BC.

  BC on 15/10 at 5200m.

  Climb abandoned on 20/10 due to high winds, no fixed ropes above C3.

  Left BC on 21/10 to Namche and on to Ama Dablam BC.

  Members at end: 1

  Sherpas above BC: 5

  Climbing route: SW Route (same as Mingma Dorchi in winter 2022)

  Oxygen: taken, but not used.

  Rope-fixing Sherpas got to 7200m at C3. Stayed there for two nights and came back. Very windy above 7200m. Some Pioneer members went to C2 for acclimatization. SST members were already acclimatized and waited at BC for a potential summit push. It never came because of high winds and ropes not fixed to the summit. SST members did not go above BC.


expid: CHOY22401
peakid: CHOY
year: 2022
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Gelje Sherpa
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks (SST) Cho Oyu Expedition Winter 2022-2023
countries: Norway, UK
approach: Lukla->Thami->Lungden
bcdate: 2022-12-12
smtdate: 2022-12-20
termdate: 2023-01-03
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to high winds and bad weather
campsites: BC(12/12,5230m),C1(15/12,6100m),C2(19/12,6700m),C3(20/12,7200m),xxx
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Approach: Trekking Thame/Lungden (Lumde)

  BC  12/12  5230m on rocks
  C1  15/12  6100m Sherpas stayed night/members tagged
  C1  18/12  6100m members stayed night
  C2  19/12  6700m by Sherpa and member
  C3  20/12  7200m by Sherpa (only tagged)

  HPt 19/12  6700m by members
  HPt 20/12  7200m by Sherpas

  The section between BC and C1 was challenging and took quite a long time. Harila said they took about six hours, but she was also carrying a lot of gear up to C1.

  When the team went back up the second time, Harila, Brownlee and Gelje Sherpa stayed the night at C1 while the other five Sherpas slept at C2 as they were fixing the ropes. Members had planned to ascend to C3 on 20/12; however, the night was too windy, so they descended to BC. The Sherpas continued to C3 to fix the route and descended to BC the same day.

  Everyone was back at BC on 20/01.

  Team rested at BC for a few days and took a helicopter to Kathmandu to spend Christmas there and returned to Cho Oyu BC on 26/12. 

  On 27/12 they left BC again as they thought they would go for the summit. On the way to C1, the winds were so strong four Sherpas and the two members turned back to BC while two Sherpas continued to see whether C1 was still standing. They found ripped tents and realised that most of the gear had been blown away. They collected what they could find and returned to BC.

  On 30/12 Harila and the six Sherpa went back up to C1 to look for the gear. They found several sleeping bags, downsuits and food, most of which had ended up in a crevasse. They collected it and took it down to BC. The team was hoping to get another weather window, however, when it became clear that the winds were not going to drop enough, they abandoned the expedition on 03/01.

  Gap in the mountain: According to Harila, the Sherpas saw that above C3, there is a big gap in the mountain, and she described it as almost two separate mountains. However, they thought that they could have overcome it higher up, had they had the chance.

  Climb abandoned: on 03/01 due to high winds and bad weather. Conditions on the mountain were good.

  Left BC on 03/01 by helicopter (Harila flew to Kathmandu, Brownlee and Gelje flew to Namche and trekked to Lukla).

  Members at end:   2
  Sherpas above BC: 6

  Fixed rope: About 2000m (many unfixed sections between BC and C1)

  Oxygen:	taken, not used


expid: CHUM22301
peakid: CHUM
year: 2022
route1: W Face (up), S Ridge (down)
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Zdenek Hak
sponsor: Czech Republic Chumbu Expedition 2022
ascent1: 1st
countries: Slovakia
approach: Lukla->Namche->Renjo La->Gokyo->Ngozumba Glacier->Gyubanare Glacier
bcdate: 2022-10-20
smtdate: 2022-10-29
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2022-10-30
campsites: BC(20/10,5400m),Biv1(26/10,5700m),Biv2(27/10,6400m),Biv3(28/10,6800m),Smt(29/10),Biv4(29/10,6500m)
agency: 14 Summits
routememo:
  Approach: Flight to Lukla on 08/10, trek kedto BC via Namche, Renjo La, Gokyo, Ngozumba Glacier and along the Gyubanare Glacier.

  BC   20/10  5400m on western side of Gyubanare Glacier 
  Biv1 26/10  5700m just below W Face across Gyubanare Glacier
  Biv2 27/10  6400m in a serac cave 
  Biv3 28/10  6800m on shoulder of S Ridge just below summit
  Smt  29/10  by Hak, Bansky, Groh, Kejklicek at 9 am
  Biv4 29/10  6500m on a saddle of S Ridge (on descent).

  First ascent of Chumbu. Alpine style ascent, no Sherpa support, no fixed ropes, no supplemental oxygen. Traverse of Chumbu (direct W Face up, S Ridge down).

  Hak and Bansky had seen this line during their ascent of Kangchung Shar in 2021 and made plans to try an ascent via W Face.

  Koren flown out by helicopter from BC on 21/10 because of Dengue Fever. He did not get higher than BC. Hak also with Dengue during approach and climb. Hak was sick in Namche and Thami and had to stay behind for a few days.

  Hak reached BC on 23/10, the others on 20/10. Approach to BC via Namche, Thami, Renjo La, Gokyo. Two days walking from Gokyo, across the Ngozumba Glacier and along the Gyubanare Glacier.

  They roped up in two teams, Hak climbing with Kejklicek and Bansky with Groh. From Bivy 1 to Bivy 2 across the Gyubanare Glacier. From Bivy 2 to Bivy 3 they followed a snow couloir for the most part. Reached the shoulder of the S Ridge at 6800m, where they decided to bivouac, 60m below the summit. Hardest part of ascent just below Bivy 3, face almost vertical for 20-30m, maybe 80° with soft snow, dangerous.

  On 29/10 started at 8:30 am. On the summit at 9 am. Very hard conditions; had to climb over unstable snow, snow like sugar. Icy parts. Hard work to break trail. Good weather, not much wind. Stayed on the summit for 30 minutes and enjoyed perfect views towards Cho Oyu, Everest, Lhotse, etc.

  After summit down the South Ridge to a saddle at 6500m, 4th bivouac. Hardest and most dangerous part was on descent before the saddle. Very bad snow conditions, had to cross unstable snow mushrooms and corniced ridge. Two pitches of rappelling to get to saddle.

  On 30/10 they were looking for a place to rappel down the S Ridge to Changri Nup Glacier. They found a way some time down after saddle of 4th bivouac.

  Rappeled down some pitches to Changri Nup Glacier. There they called for a heli evacuation because Kejklicek was developing frostbite on his fingers. Heli could not fly that day and they continued to Lobuche; had to walk across the glacier and frozen glacial lakes a few times.

  Hak reached the lodges of Lobuche at 8 pm, the others around midnight. Next day all members flown by heli from Lobuche to Kathmandu.

  Team says Chumbu may have been already climbed by a French team without a permit in 2016, but not sure.

  Classification of route: TD+.

  Name of route: The last flight of the falcon (in memory of Polish climber Andrzej Sokolowki who died in 2022 in the High Tatra).

  Records: 1st ascent of Chumbu.

  Other peaks: Acclimatized on small peak P5890 just west of Base Camp.

  Accidents: Kejklicek slight frostbite on toes and fingers, Hak slight frostbite on toes. Hak and Koren with Dengue Fever. All recovered 100%.


expid: CHUW22301
peakid: CHUW
year: 2022
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Jost Kobusch
sponsor: Jost Kobusch Chulu West Expedition 2022
approach: By Jeep to Dharapani
smtdate: 2022-09-29
smttime: 1600
othersmts: Attempted Manaslu (MANA-223-34)
campsites: Biv1(27/09,5000m),Biv2(28/09,5650m),Smt(29/09)
agency: Satori Adventures
primid: MANA22334
routememo:
  Approach: Jeep to Dharapani, trekking from there.

  Summit on 29/09 by Kobusch.

  Aim was to acclimatize for Manaslu on Chulu West. No proper BC. Spent nights at lodges in Manang and in Ledar. From Ledar two bivouacs. First one at 5000m on 27/09, another one at 5650m on 28/09. From there to the summit and back via SW Ridge. Started late after sunrise at 8 am on 29/09. On the summit at around 4 pm. Back to same bivy. Good weather from summit at first, then some whiteout.

  Solo climb, no partner, no Sherpa.


expid: DHA122301
peakid: DHA1
year: 2022
route1: NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Nicholas Russell
sponsor: Shangri-La Nepal Dhaulagiri Ski and Snowboard Expedition 2022
approach: Marpha->Dhampus Pass->French Pass->BC
bcdate: 2022-09-07
smtdate: 2022-09-30
termdate: 2022-10-02
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to bad weather and dangerous avalanche conditions
campsites: BC(07/09,4600m),C1(29/09,5500m),xxx(30/09,6000m)
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  Poor weather and snow stability. Lots of rain and snow in basecamp. It was weeks before we could get on the mountain.

  Russell and Gordon made a partial descent from C2 site on skis/snowboard.


expid: DHA122302
peakid: DHA1
year: 2022
route1: NE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Baljeet Kaur
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks (SST) Dhaulagiri Expedition 2022
bcdate: 2022-09-11
termdate: 2022-10-03
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(11/09,4700m),C1(21/09,5600m),C2(22/09,6200m),C3(7200m),xxx
agency: Seven Summit Treks
countries:
  Australia, Brazil, Canada, China, France, Georgia, Iran, Italy, Kosovo, Mexico, Poland, Romania, Slovenia, Ukraine, USA


expid: DHA122303
peakid: DHA1
year: 2022
route1: NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Mathieu Maynadier
sponsor: Thamserku Dhaulagiri Expedition 2022
countries: Belgium, China, UK, USA
approach: Via French Pass for French team
bcdate: 2022-09-21
smtdate: 2022-09-29
termdate: 2022-10-03
termnote: Abandoned due to bad weather and dangerous avalanche conditions
campsites: BC(21/09,4640m),C1(29/09,5900m),xxx(29/09,6500m) (French team)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  The French team of Bruchez, Jacquemond, Maynadier, Delapierre and Arnold from the USA were planning to ski down the normal route.


  Report from Vivian Bruchez:

  Approach: via French Pass

  BC  21/09  Classic BC
  C1  29/30  Sept and 30 Sept/01 Oct, the group slept 2 nights up there.

  The usual C1 was set at 5600m, in the middle of crevasses under vast avalanche prone snow slopes => the group instead choose to set its C1+ at a col further up, at circa 5900m (only prone to wind).

  High point at 6300-6500m.

  Climb abandoned on 01 Oct due to mountain and weather conditions. Left BC on 2nd or 3rd of October.

  Fixed rope: by the Sherpa fixing team

  Sherpas above BC: 2

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

  Other peaks: for acclimatization, skied various slopes above French Pass without climbing any peaks. Matheo did most of it, almost getting up there every day. On 28 Sept, the group enjoyed a nice ski descent in good snow conditions, southeast orientated, from a 6000m bump located above French Pass. “Like at les Grands Montets !”.

  High Points:
    Vivian Bruchez, 30 Sept, 6300m
    Matheo Jacquemoud, 29 Sept, 6500m
    Mathieu Maynadier, 29 Sept, 6500m
    Michael David Arnold, 29 Sept, 6300m
    Bertrand Delapierre, 29 Sept, 6500m

  Members always climbed as single or in duets except during the High Point period.

  2 Sherpas: Thamserku imposed 1 obligatory Sherpa to the expedition; knowing the latter explained to the agency that they wouldn’t need the Sherpa, a second one was hired so that the first one wouldn’t be alone. Once on the mountain, Maynadier was in touch with them. They went up once to C1 for a deposit. Then went back to above C1 for sleeping then back to BC.

  After a lot of preparation upstream, when at last on the ground it needed a lot of time before properly climbing. Not much done, as most of the teams. Lots of snow with too short weather windows (despite accurate weather forecast). “Knowing there hasn’t been any proper weather window, hasn’t been too much frustrating eventually”.

  Team went as high as a point between C2 and C3. From C2, the route offers a beautiful and rather safe slope for skiing; group stopped always afoot of this slope at circa 6500m.

  Kept some contact with Duperier/Langenstein team who stood on the next valley down Dhaulagiri 2 north side.


  Catherine Vulliez Facebook (5 Oct 2022):

  Dhaulagiri expedition

  On October 1st I was standing behind the Sherpas team tightening the ropes. Nuru had taken over to make the trail in deep snow on the ridge. Snow is gone and gone! Very big scare! For a few seconds, Nuru looked me straight in the eyes, questioning. Very quickly I answered him "go down! Finish! "All the frightened Sherpas are smiling again. Supposed to be 3:30 pm. Very carefully we started the descent into even deeper snow and arrived drenched at night falling to C2 (over 20 people). The storm tore up for over 2 hours over camp with a blizzard and wind. Stressed out about tomorrow's commute can't sleep! The sun shone in the early morning. We packed our stuff very heavy and therefore very heavy. 2 Sherpas managed to make their mark in deep snow twinkling in the sun. It's safe, I insist on that, we joined the C1, admiring the scenery. Very calmly we continued down the descent. Many rushed to base camp. Took my time to enjoy this last walk on the slopes of Dhaulagiri and arrived happy early afternoon at Base Camp!


expid: DHA122401
peakid: DHA1
year: 2022
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: David Goettler
sponsor: German-Italian Dhaulagiri Expedition Winter 2022-2023
countries: Italy
approach: By heli to BC
bcdate: 2023-01-02
smtdate: 2023-01-07
termdate: 2023-01-16
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to high winds
campsites: BC(02/10,4600m),C1(06/01,5850m),xxx(07/01,6200m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Approach: Helicopter to BC

  BC  02/01  4600m
  C1  06/01  5850m 
  C2  07/01  6200m (only tagged)
  HPt 07/01  6200m by Barmasse and Goettler.

  Climb abandoned due to high winds.

  Acclimatization in the Khumbu (Lobuche East) from 07/12 to 27/12 (Goettler only) and Barmasse joined him on 14/12. After the Khumbu they spent a few days in Kathmandu and flew to DHA1 BC on 02/01. There was a good weather window at the beginning of January (when Txikon and his team summited Manaslu); however, the wind never abated enough on Dhaulagiri. The climbing conditions however were extremely good. Hard surface, no deep snow or blue ice.

  The conditions on the mountain were so good that Goettler is convinced that DHA1 is very good to climb in winter. The problem on this expedition were the strong winds. 
  Rubbish:

  There was a lot of rubbish at BC from the Autumn 2022 expeditions which was probably due to the very bad weather that set in at the beginning of October 2022. Apparently 23 mules had died during the bad weather and their corpses are still lying below the French Col and had not been cleared away. Goettler and Barmasse also found two dead Nepali trekking guides who were with a South Korean trekking group in autumn 2022. They contacted the ministry and asked them to remove the dead bodies.

  Team left BC on 16/01 by helicopter.

  Oxygen:	Not taken, not used.


expid: DHA222301
peakid: DHA2
year: 2022
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Boris Langenstein
sponsor: Climbalaya Dhaulagiri II Expedition 2022
approach: Dolpo->Dunai->Mukutgaon
bcdate: 2022-09-25
smtdate: 2022-09-26
termdate: 2022-10-13
termnote: Abandoned at 5000m due to bad weather
othersmts: Attempted Sita Chuchura (SITA-223-01)
campsites: BC(25/09,4000m),xxx(26/09,5000m)
agency: Climbalaya
routememo:
  Approach: Dolpo->Dunai->Mukutgaon

  BC   05/09  4000m (at Mukutgaon).

  Sita Chuchura details:

  C1   28/09  4600m
  C2   29/09  5000m
  Biv3 30/09  5700m
  Biv4 01/10  5380m
  Biv5 02/10  5380m
  Hpt  02/10  6420m (200m below the W Smt (6622m) of Sita Chuchura by all members).

  Climb abandoned on >03/10 due to bad weather for 10 consecutive days. Left BC on 13 or 14 Oct.

  DHA2 Route: NE Face

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used

  Other peaks: Sita Chuchura (W Smt 6622m), see details below.

  •  Reconnaissance of DHA2 NE Face approach:

  26/09: The day after their arrival to Mukut, the duet went up straight to check the approach to DHA2 NE Face. Soon the duet faced a serious obstacle, making it unsure to achieve even that approach: the glacier was showing a 200m waterfall (between 4400m and 4600m) surrounded by smooth slabs under seracs. The approach would be complex for the least!

  The pair yet found a solution left to the glacier, using ledges to climb/scramble up for about 700m of denivelation until the glacier plateau located afoot of the NE Face. That section involved highly exposed traverses on ledges above rock buttresses, by the way being prone to stonefall. To be able to find their way back in a near future, the duet put some cairns all the way long. Having reached the footstep of the face, the duet discovered a rarely austere place.

  Despite delicate and exposed, back down to the difficulties, the duet concluded it was feasible to reach the DHA2 huge NE Face. To be mentioned that the duet planed an on-sight descent from the top of the NE Face.

  The duet took a rest day at BC.

  •  6 days round trip in autonomy down Sita Chuchura’s W Summit including a magnificent first ski descent.

  C1   28/09  4600m
  C2   29/09  5000m
  Biv3 30/09  5700m
  Biv4 01/10  5380m
  Biv5 02/10  5380m
  Hpt  02/10  6420m (200m below the W Smt (6622m) of Sita Chuchura by duet).

  28/09: the duet left BC, walking up the valley to sleep at a 4600m place located southeast to “Neni Goth” on the Finn Map, west to Mukot Himal.

  29/09: the team continued its approach up the valley, establishing a next camp at 5000m down afoot of the west shoulder of P5975m.

  30/09: the duet had spotted on Google Earth a circa 5800m col (a little less on the Finn Map, that col is located straight southeast to the point 5985m) allowing to access southwest-wards the valley located afoot of DHA2’s NE Face. The reality happened to be different from computer!

  On this day, the team would first have to go down to 4800m, then up to 5800m. Facing dry conditions, the duet almost thought it would never cross the col. Following many ledges and interconnected couloirs, reaching the col itself eventually involved steep ground, 50° slopes with some rock climbing, all this feeling harder considering the 25+kgs of the bags.

  The duet had first hoped to sleep at the col itself, but the latter was too sharp, and on the other side the ground was extremely steep. Thus, the team down-climbed 50m to sleep on a platform at circa 5700m.

  That face opposes a problematic access: orientated north, it involves to cross large 30° slopes prone to avalanche.

  01/10: On the next day, the team gave a try to the NW Ridge of Sita Chuchura’s West Summit (6622m), going up by skis towards large exposed/prone to avalanche slopes. Eventually in a dead-end, it came back down, making a 20m abseil at some stage. Went back down via the southwest slope below the 5800m col to sleep at 5380m.

  02/10: As the previous day’s option was abandoned, the team chose to go up towards the West Summit of Sita Chuchura (6622m, unclimbed for HD and 8000ers.com!) via its pristine remote West Face. The lower part was a bit exposed down to the seracs. "A magnificent suspended line between seracs and rocks, amazing ambiance!" The first 800m (5400m to 6200m) consisted in steep and sustained ground; from there, the duet reached the aforementioned NW Ridge, following it up to 6420m in very bad weather (wind and fog). Above that was only left a large snowy dome with cornices on the left and crevasses which all looked fine. However, the team had already pushed to the limit in difficult weather conditions, previously leaving its poles and ice axes in the snow to be able to retrace their steps. Despite just 200m down to the top, the team chose to abandon. Then the enjoyable ski descent occurred, just demanding two 20m abseils (the first one in an icy section; the second one at a small serac). Amazing ski descent in a nice snow in a magnificent place, facing the huge pristine DHA2’s NE Face in front of them.

  That night the duet slept again at the 5380m camp.

  03/10: Went back down via the long glacier, then used the cairns to bypass the icefall, then went back to BC.

  From then, the duet faced 10 consecutive days of bad weather and abandoned their attempt on DHA2.

  Boris back to France whereas Tiphaine stays in Nepal for a new kayak trip.


expid: EVER22301
peakid: EVER
year: 2022
route1: S Sol-SE Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Andrzej Bargiel
sponsor: Pioneer Adventures Everest Ski Challenge
countries: Czech Republic, Spain
bcdate: 2022-09-04
smtdate: 2022-09-22
termdate: 2022-10-04
termnote: Abandoned at S Col due to high winds and bad weather forecasts
campsites: BC(04/09,5350m),C1(08/09,6100m),C2(12/09,6400m),C3(13/09,7300m),C4(22/09,8000m),xxx
agency: Pioneer Adventure
routememo:
  Stepan Becvar and Josef Simunek were climbing separately from the Polish ski team.

  From Andrzej Bargiel Facebook;

  Sept 4, 2022
  Greetings from Base Camp! We're the only team currently operating under Everestl Throwback to the past days:

  2. A night in Lobuche, we spent at The Everest Pyramid - a weather station that monitors climate and pollution.
  3. Bartek and sunset at Gorak Shep.
  4. On the way to EBC, we got Kala Patthar with the whole team.

  Sept 8, 2022
  On the way to camp 1.

  Sept 9, 2022
  We managed to get to camp 1 and stay there for the night. Due to a weather change we had to go back to base camp in the morning. The passage through Icefall is very complicated, extremely time-consuming.

  Sept 12, 2022
  Another acclimatization outing took place this morning. Together with Janusz and Carlos we are checking in at camp 2.

  Sept 13, 2022
  Together with Janusz [Simunek] we managed to win camp 3. Now we are resting in camp 2, where we will spend the night and go to base in the morning.

  Sept 14, 2022
  We are checking in from Base Camp, the descent from camp 1 to base was very difficult, fresh snow and shifting of the glacier caused the previously defined road virtually non-existent. A moment of rest and we continue.

  Sept 18, 2022
  The acclimatization outing was delayed a bit, the weather changed a lot and there was a lot of snow on the icefall, which is why we decided to postpone the outing to tomorrow.

  Sept 22, 2022
  Our plans for acclimatization exits to higher camps have been thwarted by the weather in recent days, but we finally managed to reach the fourth camp - at almost 8000m above sea level.

  Sept 23, 2022
  We spent a few days in camp 2, as another part of the acclimatization. I was able to reach almost 8000m, and then ski down to camp 3 where we spent the night with Janusz. Now we have returned to the EBC. Now waiting for weather window, and straight to the top!

  Sept 24, 2022
  Last acclimatization push above camp 2.

  Sept 28, 2022
  Time for a Peak Attack! Today at about 1 pm 4:00 local time we left from base to camp 2. Keep your fingers crossed!

  Sept 29, 2022
  In the strong wind Andrzej and Janusz arrived at camp 4. Due to gusty wind gusts above 70 km/h and the inability to pitch a tent in C4, the decision was made to suspend the summit attack and climb to C2, with the possibility of staying in C3, to attempt the attack again tomorrow, weather conditions permitting.

  Sept 30, 2022
  Unfortunately, the weather conditions have not allowed to go back to the summit. The team is staying at camp 2 for the night and will make decisions tomorrow about the possible continuation of the summit attack, which if the weather forecast confirms will be possible on Sunday/Monday.

  Oct 2, 2022
  Today in the morning we returned to the base camp, we spent three nights in camp 2 waiting for the weather to improve. Unfortunately, strong wind and clouds cover didn’t let us go for another attempt. We will decide what to do next soon.

  Oct 3, 222
  I am forced to make a decision to end the expedition. The forecast for the next days and weeks is getting worse. Heavy snowfall and strong wind, will make it impossible to reach our goal. Due to the high risk and the tough, unpredictable conditions in the Himalayas this year, I felt that this was the only right decision. Thank you for your support, together with the whole team we felt it at every step.


  From www.polanddaily24.com

  During the project ‘Everest Ski Challenge’ Andrzej Bargiel wanted to conquer Mount Everest without the use of oxygen and descend the mountain on skis. Unfortunately, the weather conditions started getting worse and worse. "I am forced to make a decision to end the expedition. The forecast for the next days and weeks is getting worse. Heavy snowfall and strong wind, will make it impossible to reach our goal," Andrzej Bargiel informed on Facebook.

  "Since yesterday, we have been at the BC and are all okay and safe. Unfortunately, the last summit attack gave us a tough time. We went at the altitude of 8000m to the South Pass. Unfortunately, we were stopped at the pass by the wind, which was much stronger than forecasted. Gusts of up to 100 km/h meant that we could not set up a tent and camp, which also meant that we could not just try to climb the top the next day," Bargiel said in a recorded video that he posted on his Facebook.


expid: GANC22301
peakid: GANC
year: 2022
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Maud Vanpoulle
sponsor: Himalayan Travellers Ganchenpo Expedition 2022
countries: Austria, Germany
approach: Langtang Valley
bcdate: 2022-09-16
termdate: 2022-10-05
termnote: Abandoned due to route being in bad condition
othersmts: Attempted Bhemdang Ri (BHEM-223-01)
campsites: BC(16/09,3830m),xxx
agency: Himalayan Travellers Nepal
routememo:
  Report from Lise Billon:

  Approach: Langtang Valley

  BC  16/09    3830m at Kyanjin Gompa
  ABC 28-29/09 5300m at footstep of Bhemdang Ri’s E Face
  Hpt 29/09    6000m on S Ridge of Bhemdang Ri by all members except Vigl.

  Fixed rope: none

  Climb abandoned on 29 Sept due to Lise Billon’s AMS.

  Left BC on 5 Oct.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used

  Other peaks: Bhemdang Ri

  Accidents, etc: 

  - Pulmonary edema’s beginning for Babsi Vigl during the acclimatization. 
  - AMS at circa 6000m (5950m according to Fat Map) for Lise Billon during 
    the climb on Bhemdang Ri.

  On Bhemdang Ri:
    Lise Billon, 6000m on 29 Sept
    Maud Vanpoulle, 6000m on 29 Sept
    Raphaela Haug, 6000m on 29 Sept
    Babsi Vigl, 5500m during round trips to Yala Peak.

  The team initially aimed to go for Pakistan, but following a visa problem, choose Nepal instead.

  Had a small duration of expedition (20 days round trip from KTM), so that the acclimatization process got pretty squeezed.

  Trekked from 14 to 16 Sept to Kyanjin Gompa.

  23-24 Sept: reconnaissance trips, back to Kyanjin on the next day, Babsi Vigl sick.

  Had some daily roundtrips to Yala Peak (5500m), sleeping maximum to 4800m.

  First intended various peaks and routes options, including Ganchenpo via its NE Face. Conditions there were bad (very dry), so the team went to search for another option.

  Attempt on Bhemdang Ri/Morimoto:

  The team intended this traverse: East Face of the South Ridge of Bhemdang Ri, by a line further to the right of FFME 2012 (which reached the main col); south to north traverse of Bhemdang Ri, then SSW Ridge of Kyungka Ri 1, with descent via its East Ridge.

  Expected weather window to be 5 days (from 30 Sept to 4 Oct) actually turned to be 3 days actually.

  27 Sept: all members except Vigl up to Morimoto BC, approaching with heavy loads.

  28 Sept: reconnaissance of the glacier, then back to high camp/ABC (5300m), still with heavy loads. Conditions were too dry afoot of the 2012 expedition’s line*, so the trio selected instead a line further to the right.

    *In 2012, a French FFME team already climbed the East Face to the col 
    afoot of the South Ridge of Bhemdang Ri:

    https://www.ffme.fr/montagne-canyon/montagne/equipes-nationales/enaf-2010-2012/

    Lise was meant to be part of the team back then, but couldn’t join it eventually.

  29 Sept: reached the South Ridge of Bhemdang Ri in warm temperatures. On the face, the trio had found remnants of old gear (which expedition?), one helmet, one piton, nylon ropes (Asian peak). Not ideal conditions from the ridge, but kept going on. At around 6000m (5950m according to Fat Map), Lise began to feel AMS, her getting to lose memory of the events (Raphaela was watching her). Climbed back down to sleep at high camp (5300m).

  Thought at first to be 50m close from the summit, but realized afterwards it was more than 100m. “The ridge was looking still long and much more technical than expected on a higher altitude”.

  30 Sept: back to Morimoto BC. Babsi Vigl joined the trio.

  1st Oct: back to Kyanjin, the weather forecast turned very bad on this day, raining like hell, with thunderstorms. All-in-all, Billon’s AMS wasn’t a big deal in comparison with what the trio would have fought on Kyungka Ri’s expected summit day.

  After some rest days, on 5 Oct the quartet waited for the mules under the rain then walked back to Syabru Besi in the day.


  Maud Vanpoulle Facebook (7 Oct)

  It says that on expeditions you should be prepared to be surprised by the unexpected - and this is how our adventure began!

  Changing destination last-minute, from scarfs to short pants, from a remote basecamp to Italian-style cappuccino and the warm hospability of a nepali family and from a well researched goal to an area we knew nothing about, we faced surprises almost every day.

  The challenge to adapt to high altitude in limited time, the new experience to deal with monsoon and the animals of the jungle, the curiosity to dive into a new culture and the life of the locals, the joy to deepen new and persisting friendships, the flexibility and creativity to explore unknown conditions and come up with new goals, facing altitude sickness and taking good decisions together and choose our well-being over summit success.

  So…what had happened?

  Since Raphaela’s visa for Pakistan didn't arrive we shifted everything to Nepal in one day.

  As changing plans consumed some time, we had only a short time of acclimatization and therefore only one chance for the summit.

  This season in Nepal was far from good, retrospective we had a lot of rain...until a 5 day window arrived. We started super motivated, unfortunately without Babsi - she turned sick before.

  We turned around just before the summit as Lise got sick of altitude. But then we learned that we would have had to bail the next day anyways, as our 5 days window got shortened to 3 days. That's life.

  Nevertheless we had a great time. Always remember that the summit is just the cherry on the cake! Lots of laughing, lovely discussions and definitely a time to remember!


expid: GANC22302
peakid: GANC
year: 2022
route1: SSE side
nation: Nepal
leaders: Rabindra Aryal
sponsor: Garima Voyage Ganchenpo Explore Expedition 2022
countries: Italy
approach: Panch Pokhari Lakes-<BC
bcdate: 2022-11-05
smtdate: 2022-11-07
smttime: 1600
campsites: BC(05/11),ABC(06/11,4700m),C1(10/11,5400m),Smt(07,11/11)
agency: Trip Himalaya
routememo:
  The Italian team was planning for para-jumping from Ganchenpo, but only went to BC before abandoning their attempt.

  The Nepal team wanted to establish a new route for climbing Ganchenpo.


expid: GYLZ22301
peakid: GYLZ
year: 2022
route1: SSE Face from SW
nation: Nepal
leaders: Sharmila Lama Tamang
sponsor: Nepali-American Gyaltsen Peak Expedition 2022
countries: USA
smtdate: 2022-11-17
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to health issues amoung members
campsites: BC,C1,xxx(17/11,5900m)
agency: Three Jewels Adventures
routememo:
  Sharmila Lama Facebook (20 Nov 2022)

  Our trip was truly an adventure and I am grateful to have been joined by the lovely @chuck, sonam & pema. Thanks to Urken and Dorji who fixed the rope at 5900 mtr and special thanks to the company, Three Jewels Adventure for organising this trip.

  Sharmila Lama Facebook (19 Nov 2022)

  I would like to thank all of my well wishers and my team for the trust! I just wanted to inform you all that my Gyaltsen Peak expedition team  has come to a temporary halt at 5700 meters, due to health issues and we all was tired. But learned many things on the mountain. My campaign continues. The mountains have always taught me to never give up and that’s what keeps me going.

  Chuck Williams Instagram (29 Nov 2022)

  Nov 17 Gyaltsen Peak 6151m summit attempt. After a 4+ hour delay getting started we attempted to summit and made the 5700m (18,700ft) point before turning back.


expid: HIML22301
peakid: HIML
year: 2022
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Benedikt Boehm
sponsor: Dynafit Himlung Ski Expedition 2022
countries: Italy
bcdate: 2022-08-23
smtdate: 2022-08-31
smttime: 1041
termdate: 2022-09-05
campsites: BC(23/08,4850m),C1(28/08,5450m),C2(30/08,6100m),Smt(31/08,04/09)
agency: Alpinist Climber
routememo:
  Boehm and Prakash Sherpa made a speed ascent of Himlung on 4 Sept in 6 hrs and 43 min, and a ski descent down to BC. Round trip was 9 hrs and 39 min.


  Alpinist Climber Expeditions Facebook (31 Aug 2022)

  Himlung summit 7126m update.

  @alpinistclimberexpeditions team stood on the summit of Himlung Himal 7126m this morning 31/08 at 10:41 am.

  The team:
    Benedikt Boehm
    Prakash Sherpa

  This summit was a part of their final project. Everyone is safely back to base camp where they will rest for a few days before the final speed push.


  Report from Boehm and Prakash:

  First Summit:

  BC  23/98  4850m
  C1  28/08  5450m
  C2  30.08  6100m
  Smt 31/08  by Boehm and Prakash Sherpa at 10:40 am.

  Start time 5:41 am from C2 and summited 10:40 am and back to base camp same day. 

  Second Summit:

  Base camp to summit 4 September (speed ascent) 

  Start time midnight, 00:30 from base camp and reached summit early in the morning but don’t exactly the time (climbing up 6 hours 43 minutes).

  Total up and down 9 hours 39 minutes, distance 20.12 km.

  Left BC on 5 September.


expid: HIML22303
peakid: HIML
year: 2022
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Krishna Thapa Magar
sponsor: Himalayan Ski Treks (HST) Himlung Himal Expedition 2022
countries: Panama
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3(6300m),xxx
agency: Himalayan Ski Trek
routememo:
  HST Facebook:

  HIMLUNG EXPEDITION 2022 UPDATE:

  Due to the unexpected changes in the weather, our team @hari_budha_magar, @kristhapaa and the Sherpa team couldn't able to reach the summit.

  They reached above camp 3 around (6300m), but the weather was extremely harsh to push ahead. Because of the heavy snowfall and unpredictable & unstable weather pattern team had to decide not to go further.

  There was no casualty; everyone is safe and has reached base camp now; safety is our primary concern.

  Thank you, exped Leader Krish; without your guidance, experience, knowledge, and positive mindset, this could have been a nightmare. And Hari, you're a Hero and a true inspiration for all of us.

  Thank you for believing in us.

  Our Sherpa Guides did a fantastic job in the most challenging time and environment. You guys are the best, and we couldn't think of it without your hard work. Thank you, Brothers, dad.

  Currently, Hari, Krish and the team are at the base camp, waiting for good
  weather to go for the second summit attempt. But it all depends on the weather and they'll decide according to nature's law.


expid: HIML22305
peakid: HIML
year: 2022
route1: NW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Mi-Gon
sponsor: Korean Himlung Himal Expedition 2022
smtdate: 2022-10-20
smttime: 1000
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,Smt(20/10)
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal
routememo:
  From Korean Facebook (24 Oct 2022)

  At 12 o'clock at night, I was too short of breath to speed up, and my whole body was shaking to go slowly, and I felt like my limbs would get frostbite. It's crazy.
  It's 5:00 in the morning, I hope the sun rises early. I wanted to cut off my ears, nose, and cheeks that were frozen by the wind.

  It's 6 o'clock in the morning, and the sun is shining, and the surrounding peaks are all lower than me.

  It's 8:00 in the morning, the rising sun is hot and the wind is still cold. I couldn't apply sunscreen because I was so distracted that my nose and cheeks were burnt and burnt.

  At 9:00 in the morning, with 100m to the summit, I was unable to move due to the strong wind and the cold of minus 30 degrees Celsius. I said ‘Let’s endure, let’s endure’ with the eyes of the other members, but it seemed like we would freeze after 10 more minutes.

  Following the captain walking with great strides.

  At 10:00 in the morning, three members and two Sherpas finally climbed to the top of Himlung Himal.

  It was difficult to breathe at an altitude of 7126m, and the voice was not coming out because the throat was also broken.

  Everywhere I looked, I looked great and was so happy, but I had to stop going down because my body was in pain.


expid: HIML22307
peakid: HIML
year: 2022
route1: NW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Robert Mads Anderson
sponsor: Jagged Globe Himlung Himal Expedition 2022
countries: Poland, USA
approach: Koto->Phu->BC
bcdate: 2022-10-12
smtdate: 2022-10-24
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2022-10-26
campsites: BC(12/10,4800m),C1(15/10,5400m),C2(16/10/6000m),C3(23/10,6300m),Smt(24/10)
agency: Nepal Skyline
routememo:
  Summit team left C3 at 4:30 am, summited at noon. Stayed 30 minutes, then decended to C3 by 3 pm.

  Perfect clear weather, no wind, still very cold (-18c).


expid: HIML22314
peakid: HIML
year: 2022
route1: NW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Stuart Peacock
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Himlung Himal Expedition 2022
countries: Australia, Sweden
approach: Koto->Meta->Phu->BC
bcdate: 2022-10-23
smtdate: 2022-11-04
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2022-11-06
campsites: BC(23/10,4750m),C1(27/10,5700m),C2(28.10,6000m),C3(03/11,6400m),Smt(04/11)
agency: Makalu Adventure
routememo:
  Summit team started from C3 at 3 am on 4 Nov, summited at 8 am, stayed 30 minutes, then descended to C2.

  Set out at same time, but staggered reaching the summit. First members 8:30 am, last members 11:15 am.

  Perfect weather and snow conditions. Very little wind, but cold.


expid: HNKU22301
peakid: HNKU
year: 2022
route1: SSW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: David Morton
sponsor: Shangri-La Nepal Treks (SNT) Hunku Chuli Expedition 2022
countries: Belgium
approach: Lukla->Zatrwa La->Khare->Mera La->Seto Pokhari->BC
bcdate: 2022-10-26
smtdate: 2022-10-30
termdate: 2022-11-02
termnote: Abandoned at 6050m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(26/10,5400m),ABC(29/10,5700m),Biv(30/10,6050m),xxx
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  On 30/10 6050m reached by both members, David Morton and Thomas Gilbert. Morton listed a Sherpa as a member, but he did not attempt to climb with them, but went to ABC.

  They intended to climb what is essentially the SSW ridge-line, gaining the ridge via a direct 60-70 degree slope from where they placed ABC. Weather was very windy on the ridge-line once gained, prompting them to now spend the night on the ridge at 6050m. However the primary issue was the condition of the unconsolidated snowpack. This wasn't concern for safety, however it made travel times unreasonable. They spent most of the day gaining the ridge, only 300m of altitude.


expid: HONK22301
peakid: HONK
year: 2022
route1: E Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Luis Stitzinger
sponsor: Solo Alpine Hongu Peak Expedition 2022
approach: Lukla->Chatra La->Khare->Mera Peak->Seto Pokhari->Hongku Peak BC
bcdate: 2022-10-27
smtdate: 2022-11-03
termdate: 2022-11-04
campsites: BC(27/10,5510m),C1(02/11,6200m),xxx(03/11,6520m)
agency: Solo Alpine Treks
routememo:
  Stitzinger reached 6520m on 3 Nov, but second half of east ridge too difficult to carry on solo (climbing partner got sick).

  Beautiful but very long knife-edge ridge line with unsuspected difficulties in the second half after junction with South Ridge.


expid: JANU22301
peakid: JANU
year: 2022
route1: N Face
nation: USA
leaders: Matthew Cornell
sponsor: American Kumbhakarna (Jannu) Expedition 2022
approach: Via Taplejung by jeep, trekked to BC
bcdate: 2022-09-14
smtdate: 2022-10-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to high winds
campsites: BC(14/09,4700m),Biv1(16/10,5334m),Biv2(17/10,5850m),Biv3(18/10,6700m),xxx
agency: Grand Himalaya Treks
routememo:
  Drove to Taplejung, trekked to BC.
  BC    14/08  4700m
  Biv1  16/10  5334m
  Biv2  17/10  5850m
  Biv3  18/10  6700m

  Climb abandoned at Bivy 3 on 18/10 because of high winds and unsafe conditions on the face.

  Spent a lot of time acclimatizing in the vicinity on smaller peaks, rock climbing, etc.

  Walked back from BC to Taplejung through Gunsa Valley. Back to KTM on 25/10.

  Reluctant to specify on the exact route.


expid: KTUN22302
peakid: KTUN
year: 2022
route1: E Face
nation: USA
leaders: Luke Smithwick
sponsor: Pioneer Khatung Khang Expedition 2022
countries: Canada, UK
termnote: Leader and one member strickened by dengue fever
agency: Pioneer Adventure
routememo:
  From Luke Smithwick Facebook:

  Leader and one member strickened by dengue fever. Expedition terminated.


expid: LANG22301
peakid: LANG
year: 2022
route1: E Face
nation: Ecuador
leaders: Topo Mena
sponsor: Alpine Langtang Lirung Expedition 2022
approach: Syabru Besi
smtdate: 2022-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to dangerous rockfall
othersmts: Summited 6192m WSW summit of Yansa Tsenji (Dragpoche)
campsites: BC(03/10,4600m),xxx(15/10,5800m)
agency: Himalaya Vision
routememo:
  BC  03/10  4600m	
  HPt 15/10  5800m by all members.

  Trek to Lama Hotel/Langtang/Kyanjin Gompa

  As the first week of the trip the weather was very bad the team stayed at BC and did a few acclimatization hikes. They waited for better weather as they knew they only had one go on the East Face of Langtang Lirung in Alpine Style. On 08/10 the weather improved and they took some gear to the base of the wall at the Bergschrund at 4950m and checked out the conditions. On 14/10 they started their summit attempt from BC. The route was mixed and about 90 degrees at times.

  They left BC at 10 pm of 14/19. They reached the Bergschrund at midnight. When they sun hit the E Face (the wall is 2200m high) they started getting hit by rocks and avalanches and spin drifts as it was getting too warm. When they were at about 5800m at 6:30 am, they quickly decided to descend as conditions were too dangerous. They abseiled down and reached the Bergschrund at 10 am. They reached BC at about 1 pm packed up and walked to Kyanjin Gompa [on 15/10].

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


expid: LCHA22301
peakid: LCHA
year: 2022
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Bruce Normand
sponsor: AACZ Changla Himal Expedition 2022
countries: Austria, Bulgaria, France, Germany, Italy, Lithuania, Spain, Switzerland, USA
approach: To Simikot by air->4 days trekking to BC
bcdate: 2022-10-03
smtdate: 2022-10-16
termdate: 2022-10-23
termnote: Did not atempt due to deep snow conditions
othersmts: Climbed two unnamed peaks (6122m and 6076m), first ascents
campsites: BC(03/10,4400m),xxx(5000m)
accidents: A few COVID cases in the group.
agency: Mountain Sun Valley
routememo:
  AACZ = Alpine Club of Zurich (Akademischer Alpenclub Zürich (it's their 125th Anniversary expedition)

  13 members on climbing team, plus 6 on trekking team.

  Approach:  Flight to Simikot, 4 days trekking to BC.

  Other peaks:  P5500m for acclimatization on 03/10.


  Group had a permit for Lachama Chuli (LCHA), but it soon became clear that an attempt could not be undertaken because of excessive snow on the mountain. Initial plan was to climb SW Ridge of Lachama Chuli and to do the first ascent from the Nepal side.

  They turned their attention to two smaller peaks nearby instead, possibly never climbed before. P6122 north of Lachama Chuli on the Nepal-Tibet border, and P6076, southwest of Lachama Chuli. 

  They set up a shared base camp for both peaks at 4400m before the Lachama Glacier on 02/10. On 03-04/10 they explored the area around and some members scaled a 5500m high view point in the vicinity of base camp. On 05/10 there was a storm.


  P6122 (30°11'20.56"N 82° 9'45.39"E)

  Climbing route: South Face of East Ridge, last 500m on East Ridge.

  C1  12/10  5200m at lake above Lachama Glacier
  C2  14/10  5600m above icefall on SE side of P6122
  Smt 16/10  by 10 members (Simutis, Crepaz, Jud, Alegria, Brunner, Frank, 
             Steinmeier, Walo, Hermann, Revaz)

  10 members climbed P6122 north of Lachama Chuli. Started from C2 at 5:30 am on 16/10. On the summit at 11 am. Good weather. Some members back to C2 and some down to C1 at around 5:30 pm. A few 30m abseils necessary on descent.

  Normand helped breaking trail to C1 and then turned back because he suffered from fever (COVID). Skawran took a fall near C2 and abandoned climb after.


  P6076 (30° 7'21.78"N  82° 8'56.99"E)

  Climbing route: South Ridge

  Four members climbed the South Ridge of P6076. Approach along Lachama Khola, group had to break trail for 2 days to get to Advanced Base Camp. “ABC” at 5000m on glacier moraine on south side of peak. One high camp at 5400m.

  ABC  14/10  5000m
  HC   16/10  5400m
  Smt  19/10  by 4 members (Popov, Trellu, Heikkila, Bonnet).

  Started from high camp at 6 am. On the summit at 3:30 pm on 19/10. Back to high camp at 10 pm. Next day down to BC. Good weather until 2 pm, afterwards it got cloudy. Good views towards the south, but cloudy to the north.

  Normand and Marti reached HP at 5500m (Marti was the expedition doctor).
  Brown reached HP at 5300m. 
  Laeubli and Skawran reached HP at C2 of P6122 at 5600m.

  For a detailed day-to-day expedition account including photos see:

  https://aacz.ethz.ch/about-us/anniversary-expedition-125-years-aacz/expedition-update-tracker/

  Team met two Polish climbers trying Lachama North. They didn’t get higher than 5200m due to bad conditions according to Normand.

  Team left BC on 23/10.


expid: LUNR22301
peakid: LUNR
year: 2022
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Chantel Lee Astorga
sponsor: American Lunag Ri Expedition 2022
approach: Lukla->Namche->Gokyo->Renjo La->Lunag Glacier
bcdate: 2022-10-07
smtdate: 2022-10-21
termdate: 2022-10-25
campsites: BC(07/10,5030m),ABC(16/10,5180m),C1(21/10,5800m),xxx(21/10,6035m)
agency: Xtreme Climbers
routememo:
  Chantel Astorga and Anne Gilbert reached 6035m on 21/11, but stopped due to poor conditions.

  The weather was calm winds and had moderate temperatures. The solar aspects had consolidated snow. Shady aspects was unconsolidated snow. Southerly aspects had ice that was longer in shape for climbing as things had melted out quickly.


expid: MANA22301
peakid: MANA
year: 2022
route1: NE Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Sherpa Rope-Fixing
sponsor: Sherpa Rope-Fixing Manaslu 2022
smtdate: 2022-09-15
smttime: 2028
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,TrueSmt(15,26/09)
routememo:
  A team of 8 Sherpas from Elite Expeditions summited at 20:28 pm fixing ropes to the top:

    Mingma David Sherpa (Fixing Team Coordinator)
    Phur Bahadur Gurung (Fixing Team Leader)
    Dawa Chettar Sherpa (Member)
    Mingmar Sherpa (Member) 
    Sandeep Gurung (Member)
    Pam Dorjee Sherpa (Member) 
    Pasang Ngima Sherpa (Member) 
    Karma Geljen Sherpa (Member)


  Elite Expeditions Facebook (26 Sept 2022)

  Manaslu expedition summit update:

  This morning our fixing team Pam Dorjee Sherpa, Karma Gelje Sherpa, Pasang Nima Sherpa and Dawa Chettar Sherpa has re-summited Manaslu making this their double summit for the season.

  Because of the heavy snow from the past few days it had buried the rope and made it
  dangerous. But our guys made a second round to go up and fix two way rope: one to go up and one to go down for more safety and it will help with traffic on the summit.

  Congratulations and thank you to these absolute beasts who's hardwork and effort will help climbers to achieve their new possible on Manaslu.

  The team members are safe and back at Camp 4.


expid: MANA22302
peakid: MANA
year: 2022
route1: NE Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: 8K Expeditions Staff
sponsor: 8K Manaslu Expedition 2022
smtdate: 2022-09-22
campsites: BC(4800m),C1(5600m),C2(6400m),C3(6800m),C4(7500m),TrueSmt(22,26,28/09)
agency: 8K Expeditions
countries:
  Argentina,Canada,China,Germany,India,Iraq,Malaysia,Macedonia,Mexico,Morocco, Norway,Pakistan,Peru,Romania,Russia,Slovakia,Taiwan,Turkey,Ukraine

routememo:
  Report from Kristin Harila (from the Sherpas Newsgrout):

  The story from Manaslu, 8163m, 22.09.2022

  Manaslu was probably the hardest summit push I ever had!

  We started out from BC on Monday, and Tuesday we had a short climb to C2. Heavy snowfall, and the weather forecast looked like more snow the night to 22.09. We talked about climbing down, as most others did, but luckily we decided to
  climb up to C3 to see if the weather forecast was wrong.

  We knew it would be a long summit push from C3, so we started out already 8:30 pm. We had incredibly beautiful weather! Trails half way up to C4, but the last half way we had to break trail and pull up the rope. We heard some avalanches when we climbed.

  An hour after C4 Alexandra turned around after getting an asthma attack. Of course I wanted to be there, but when we got the news on the radio that she has decided to turn back, we were already too far away. I'll talked with her on the radio and understood that she was in a bad situation. Simone Moro landed in C3 and flew her to the hopital in Kathmandu. She is all fine now!

  Deep, heavy snow, and no trails made it very challenging! Finally we made it to the summit ridge. Many small avalanches when we stepped on the ridge, and I have to say just getting to the fore-summit is not easy in this condition.

  We rappelled down, did the traverse and climbed up to the middel top. When I climbed up here, heavy snow came down on me, and the last part to the real summit was not easy either.

  After 19 hours, we finally reached the summit. On the way up, I wasn't sure if we would make it, but I was so motivated to get it done!

  Thinking about going back next week, with so many people waiting for the next
  summit window in BC, made me really want to reach the summit. It will not be any easier next week, even a lot of people also means trails.

  I have never been so happy to reach a summit!

  Many say that Manaslu is one of the easiest 8000m. Maybe, in good condition! But I think it is good to remember that the condition on the mountain have a lot to say about how easy the climb gets!

  Thanks to Pasdawa and Dawa Onju Sherpa for great teamwork.


  Dr. Priti Bhusal Facebook, 3 Oct 2022

  Due to the bad weather (heavy wind @50-60km/hr) at camp 4 and above on 28th Sept 2022 forced me to opt out to summit Manaslu this year from camp 4 (7400m).

  Nevertheless, I was able to serve the people who were hit by the avalanche in between camp 3 and camp 4.

  On 26th September 2022, When I just touched camp 3, I could see the avalanche coming from the camp 4 down. At first, I was just staring at the scenario and people were shouting and crying around. Later after 30 to 45 minutes, people affected were evacuated to camp 3. I feel privileged that I was strong enough at the height of 6900m to treat the affected ones with some medical stuffs I had by providing with primary management. There were the cases of shoulder dislocation, tibia/fibula dislocation, rib fracture, soft tissue injury and many. Only 2 cases were evacuated via helicopter that day and rest couldn't due to bad weather. As we know that in the mountain Sherpa are the real hero. But that day when they were crying seeing their friend injured and affected by the avalanche broke my heart. The only sentence that came was "Dai, please don't cry, nothing will happen and I am there for you all". I did not realise until someone in basecamp told me that this sentence was a big thing coming from my mouth which gave them so much relief.  There were also two medical doctors from different country which helped me alot and I learnt alot from them. Coming from different country, there are some legal boundaries to make some important decision so me being there made a lot more easy. For me also having some doctors eased the situation alot.

  After descending from the camp 4 to 3, there was one case of hypothermia/frostbite with low GCS. I made sure that the case was warm and evacuated as soon as possible. 
  Serving above the height of 6800m (above the cloud) was the greatest achievement in my life so far.

  Manaslu mountain of spirit examined my consistency in serving others at that altitude and overcoming obstacles.

  This time Manaslu weather was very harsh for every climber. Even the local/ mountain guide working for so many years were suprised to see the worst condition of the weather.

  I feel blessed that this time I met so many climbers and have become more familiar with the climbing community (who are the heart of the country). I made so many friends from different country for life. I feel so proud of that and these matters alot.

  Earlier before starting my climbing journey I have chosen 3 mountains because each mountain teaches you something and examines you.

  I came to Kathmandu on 30th May 2022. I am now on my usual duties and activities. I would like to thank each and every one who have supported me and prayed for me all the while. I would like to give special thank you and congratulations to Panchakanya Group, for entering in 50 years and also Rotary Club of Kasthamandap, Blue Mountain Resort Kathmandu for supporting me in this journey.


expid: MANA22304
peakid: MANA
year: 2022
route1: NE Face
nation: India
leaders: Basanta Singha Roy
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks (SST) Manaslu Expedition 2022 (Group 1)
countries: Argentina, Australia, France, Italy, Mexico, Spain, Switzerland
smtdate: 2022-09-26
campsites: BC(4800m),C1(5600m),C2(6400m),C3(6800m),C4(7500m),xxx(26/09,7500m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Most of the members on this permit were turned back due to a large avalanche on 26 Sept between C3 and C4.


expid: MANA22305
peakid: MANA
year: 2022
route1: NE Face
nation: UK
leaders: Adriana Brownlee
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks (SST) Manaslu Expedition 2022 (Group 2)
countries: Canada, Denmark, Ecuador, Hungary, Iran, Pakistan, Poland, Russia, USA
bcdate: 2022-09-12
smtdate: 2022-09-26
smttime: 1250
campsites: BC(12/09/4700m),C1(13/09,5600m),C2(14/09,6400m),C3(15/09,6600m),C4(25/09,7350m),TrueSmt(26/09)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Report from Sajid Ali Sadpara:

  Approach: Trekking via Larkya La

  BC  12/09  4700m
  C1  13/09  5600m
  C2  14/09  6400m
  C3  15/09  6600m
  C4    --   7350m
  Smt 26/09  by Sadpara at 12:50 pm (true summit).

  Summit push in one go.

  Sadpara and Moeses Fiamoncini started from BC on 25/09 at 9:30 am. They reached C3 at about 2 pm. They changed into their down suits and had a bit of a rest. They started from C3 again at 5:30 pm and continued to C4 where they arrived at midnight. Sadpara continued at about 2 am while Fiamoncini decided to abandon the climb due to bad weather. It was very windy. There was deep snow up the slope and summit ridge was fixed.

  Sadpara stayed for about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to C4 where he arrived at 5 pm. On 27/09 to BC.

  Left BC: 30/09 trekked to Samagaon and by heli to Ramechap.

  Sherpas: None

  Oxygen:  Not taken, not used


expid: MANA22306
peakid: MANA
year: 2022
route1: NE Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Sophie Lavaud
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks (SST) Manaslu Expedition 2022 (Group 3)
countries: Brazil, Canada, Chile, France, Germany, Italy, Kuwait, Spain, USA
smtdate: 2022-10-01
smttime: 0650
campsites: BC(4800m),C1(5600m),C2(6400m),C3(6800m),C4(7500m),TrueSmt(01/10)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Report from Moeses Fiamoncini:

  Approach: Heli to BC.

  BC  06/09  4850m 
  C1         5600m  (no sleeping at C1)
  C2  13/09  6300m
  C3  14/09  6650m
  C4  26/09  7450m
  HPt 26/09  7450m by Fiamoncini.

  Climb abandoned on 03/10 due to bad conditions, avalanche danger.

  Fiamoncini with his client Morandi. Morandi abandoned climb at C2 on 20/09. He had to go back to Brazil for personal reasons. Fiamoncini had two summit attempts. First summit attempt abandoned because of strong winds at C4. On second attempt Fiamoncini abandoned climb because of avalanche between C1 and C2. One Sherpa died. High avalanche danger on mountain. On 03/10 decided to abandoned climb. Descended from C3 to C2, then heli to BC and on to Samagaon.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used by Morandi in descent from C2 to C1
    Not taken or used by Fiamoncini.

  Hired:
    Changba Shepa (6300m)


  Report from Sophie Lavaud:

  Approach: Trekking via Larkya La 

  BC  12/09  4700m
  C1  16/09  5600m
  C2  21/09  6400m
  C3  22/09  6600m
  C4  30/09  7350m
  Smt	01/10  by Lavaud, Lakpa Temba Sherpa at 6:50 am (True Smt).

  Dawa Sangay reached C3 on 29/09. He was sick at C1 already during the summit push. He was very weak and reached C3 with the rest of the team and decided to abandon the expedition out of fear that he would deteriorate, or Sophie would not reach the summit because of him.

  Du Sartel, Lavaud, Lakpa Temba and Nima, a kitchen boy from SST, reached C4 in very high winds, about 60 km/h. A lot of other expeditions turned back that day. Sophie rang her weather forecaster who told her to stay as the wind would drop at midnight. The wind dropped and the four set out at 1:30 am on 01/10. It was a perfect night. Only a few people, no wind and clear. After about 3 hours Alex was tired and cold and went down with Nima, the kitchen boy. The had reached about 7600m. They returned to C4 and waited for the rest of the team.

  Lavaud and Lakpa Temba continued in good conditions. They reached the REAL summit via the descent route which traverses along the fore-summit and then goes up to the real summit. The rope fixing Sherpas had fixed one ascent route which went OVER the fore-summit and down and up to the real summit and the descent route that traverses.

  They spent about 10 minutes on the summit, picked up Nima and Du Sartel and continued to C3, where they picked up Dawa Sangay who was better. Everyone descended to BC where they arrived at 5 pm.

  Left BC on 02/10 by walking to Samagaon and heli to Arughat on 03/10.

  Oxygen:
    Taken, and used from C3 to high point to by Du Sartel
    Taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 by Lavaud and Lakpa
    Taken and used from C4 to high point to C4 by Nima

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Sangay (always with Lavaud)
    Lakpa Temba (14/05/1985) Makalu-9

  From Sophie Lavaud Facebook:

  MANASLU 8163m Main summit

  We reached camp 4 at 7430m on Sept 30 in appalling conditions, with winds peaking at 60 km/h. Doubt is there and I see failure looming. On the other side of the planet, in Chamonix, Yan Giezendanner sends me weather reports twice a day. He is confident, "it's going to work," he writes me, "the wind will fall tonight". Many climbers came back down, "too much wind, not possible"... and we settle down as best we can in our tent. The hours are ticking away, obviously, it's impossible to sleep with this noise. The atmosphere is special. Moreover, Sangay fell ill between camp 1 and 2, he really suffered to reach camp 3 and his decision is taken not to continue so as not to compromise my summit push. A young Sherpa, Nima, takes over.
  Doubt is growing.

  In our tent at camp 4, the hours pass, and indeed the wind calms down. Lakpa Temba, Alex, Nima and I decide to leave for the summit at 1:30 am, the stars are out and the sky is calm. These few hours of calm allow us to make good progress but the cold and the fatigue win over Alex who decides to turn back with Nima. With Lakpa Temba we reach the REAL summit of Manaslu in good conditions at 6:50 am on October 1st.

  This famous REAL summit that has been the subject of so much discussion in recent months. We are almost alone on the summit. Incredible when you consider that there are about 400 permits registered this season! A few photos later we start the descent, meeting Alex at camp 4 and Sangay at camp 3. All together we went back down to the base camp safely. Despite a very chaotic season, this lull of a few hours in the night allowed us to reach the magnificent Manaslu summit at 8163m.


expid: MANA22307
peakid: MANA
year: 2022
route1: NE Face
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Arnold Coster
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks (SST) Manaslu Expedition 2022 (Group 4)
countries: Belgium, India, Mexico, Russia, Spain
approach: Besisahar->Larkya->Samagoan->BC
bcdate: 2022-09-14
smtdate: 2022-10-01
termdate: 2022-10-06
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to dangerous conditions
campsites: BC(14/09,4800m),C1(20/09,5550m),C2(22/09,6200m),C3(01/10,6800m),xxx
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Approach: Besisahar->Larkya->Samagaon-BC, normal route 9 members trekked starting 7 Sept. 3 members flew to Samagaon on 12 Sept.

  BC  14/09  4800m
  C1  20/09  5550m
  C2  22/09  6200m
  C3  01/10  6800m

  Nobody summited. Coster stopped the entire team in C3 on 2 Oct, because dangerous conditions (except for Max Widdershoven who left early). Arnold Coster stayed in base camp.

  Max Widdershoven left BC on 28 Sept by helicopter due to back pain.

  Accident: Dawa Chhiri Sherpa got caught in an slab avalanche 2 Oct at approx. 6000m descending from C2 to C1. Because he was not clipped in the rope he got lost. After two days of searching we found his dead body inside a crevasse at around 5900m on the 4 Oct. His body was flown back to Kathmandu the same day.


expid: MANA22308
peakid: MANA
year: 2022
route1: NE Face
nation: Singapore
leaders: Khoo Swee Chiow
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks (SST) Manaslu Expedition 2022 (Group 5)
countries: Denmark, Iran, Italy, Romania, UK
smtdate: 2022-09-28
campsites: BC(4800m),C1(5600m),C2(6400m),C3(6800m),C4(7500m),TrueSmt(28,30/09)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Khoo Swee Chiow report:

  Summit push:
    Ben reached fore-summit.
    Khoo & Chong to C4 7400m
    Teo to 7200m
    Peh did not attempt summit

  High wind, 50km/h (weatherman got it wrong!). 
  Left BC on 30 Sept. 
  Team used oxygen.


expid: MANA22309
peakid: MANA
year: 2022
route1: NE Face
nation: China
leaders: Zhang Wei
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks (SST) Manaslu Expedition 2022 (Group 6)
countries: Australia, Canada, India, Japan, Ukraine
smtdate: 2022-09-30
campsites: BC(4800m),C1(5600m),C2(6400m),C3(6800m),C4(7500m),TrueSmt(30/09)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Report from Naoko Watanabe:

  Arrive at BC on 22 Sept.

  Watanabe and Tenjin started a first summit push on 28 Sept, but when they reached C4 it was too windy and they returned to C3 where they stayed another night before they started their second summit attempt.

  Summit push from C3 (6700m) 29 Sept at 3:30 pm. Deep snow, high winds and Tenjin opened the route again after the avalanche. Hence the long summit push!

  Main Summit 30 Sep 7:10 am with Tenjin Sherpa, then descended to C3. Reached BC on 1 Oct. Left BC on 2 Oct by helicopter.

  Oxygen: From C3 to top to C3 by Tenjin and Watanabe.

  Sherpa:
    Tenjin Sherpa (Montere Lama), climbed Lhotse with Watanabe in 2022.


  Report from Antonina Samoilova:

  Approach: Heli to BC from KTM

  BC  14/09  4850m
  C1  18/09
  C2  19/09  6300m
  C3  01/10  6650m
  HPt 02/10  6650m by Antonina, Sona Sherpa

  Decided to abandon climb due to bad conditions and avalanche danger. Spent two nights at C3 from 01-03/10. On 03/10 descended from C3 to C2. From C2 heli to Samagaon and on to KTM the same day.

  Oxygen: Taken, not used.

  Hired:
    Sona Sherpa (C3)


expid: MANA22310
peakid: MANA
year: 2022
route1: NE Face
nation: Russia
leaders: Sergei Larin
sponsor: 14 Peaks Manaslu Expedition 2022
countries: Australia, Kazakhstan, Iran, Kyrgyz Republic, Sweden
smtdate: 2022-09-30
smttime: 1210
campsites: BC(4800m),C1(5600m),C2(6400m),C3(6800m),C4(7500m),TrueSmt(30/09,01/10)
agency: 14 Peaks Expedition
routememo:
  The following are from 7 Summits Adventure using SST services on the 14 Peaks Expedition permit:

    Sergei Larin
    Yuriy Lukyanov
    Ms. Lilia Kovelenko
    Ms. Anna Korpushenkova
    Semen Kuchin
    


expid: MANA22311
peakid: MANA
year: 2022
route1: NE Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Pemba Thinduk Sherpa
sponsor: 14 Peaks Manaslu Expedition 2022
bcdate: 2022-09-18
smtdate: 2022-09-30
smttime: 0920
termdate: 2022-10-04
campsites: BC(18/09,4600m),C1(21/09,5600m),C2(22/09,6400m),C3(23/09,6800m),C4(30/09,7500m),TrueSmt(30/09)
agency: 14 Peaks Expedition
routememo:
  Summit push 28 Sept 2022:

  On 28th Sept left BC 2 am and reached C1 around 3 hours later; stayed the night at C1. 29th Sept Left C1 at 6:40 am and went directly to C3, with a lunch stop at C2, then rested for about 5 hours at C3.

  9 pm on 29th Oct left for summit. Arrived C4 around 5 hrs 30 mins later. Rested for about 20 mins. Left C4 at 3 am and reached summit at 9:20 am.

  Was extremely windy from C3 onwards. Approach to summit was fine, path was clear. The avalanche was below C4. From C3 to C4 50/60mph winds, and the trail was full of snow. The normal fixed line was really tight and it was difficult to jumar. Some places the snow was up to our hips. After C4 it was fine.

  Summit was clear. Descent was fine, sunny day. Did the Rowaling route to the true summit. Takes only a couple of minutes from the false summit on the traverse.

  Spent 30 mins on the summit, then descended and rArrived C4 around midday. Gathered there about 10 minutes only. Arrived at C3 on 30th Sept around 4/5 pm. Spent night at C3. Next day headed to BC after breakfast. Back to BC on 1 Oct around 11 am. Rested there 2 days.

  Left BC on 4 Oct by heli to Samagaon. From Samagaon to Arkhet by heli, then Arkhet to Ktm by heli.

  Oxygen: Used from C3 onwards until back to C3.


  Manish Maharjan Facebook:

  Made it to the summit of the world's 8th highest Mountain Manaslu on 30th Sept at 9:00 am. Once again Thank you to Tashi Lakpa Sherpa dai 14 Peaks Expedition/Seven Summit Treks for this big opportunity. Also did the summit with worlds youngest 16 years to climb Manaslu Nimrin Sherpa who is on target to do 14 peaks. He will be the first teenager to complete the 14 peaks.

  This season weather was a big challenge, lots of climbers already gave up. We fall under the very few people to do the summit this season.

  We started our summit push from camp 1 early morning and rested a few hours in camp 3 and started walking at night 9:00 pm for the summit. The weather was not good when we reached camp 4 at 2:00 am. We decided to wait there for a few minutes and decide whether to go up or down. Giving up was not an option. We barely could feel our cheeks because of the high wind.

  Our summit day was planned by Tashi Lakpa Sherpa and the weather was confirmed to be good. Slowly we started to move despite the wind, slowly the sun rose and the weather was good. We successfully did the summit and returned back to Manaslu base camp. Almost all the members from 14 Peaks Expedition were successful for the summit.


expid: MANA22312
peakid: MANA
year: 2022
route1: NE Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Nirmal Purja
sponsor: Elite Exped Manaslu Expedition 2022
smtdate: 2022-09-26
campsites: BC(4800m),C1(5600m),C2(6400m),C3(6800m),C4(7500m),TrueSmt(26,28,30/09)
agency: Elite Exped
countries:
  Brazil, Canada, France, Germany, Iran, Japan, Mexico, Morocco, Norway, Pakistan, Poland, Russia, Spain, Switzerland, UK, USA

routememo:
  Report from Anna Gutu:

  BC  09/09  4800m
  C1  12/09  5700m
  C2  13/09  6400m
  C3  26/09  6800m
  C4  27/09  7500m
  Smt 28/09  by Gutu and Tendi Sherpa at 11:22 am

  Left C4 on 28/09 at 6:30 am, summited at 11:22 am, descended to BC at 10 pm.

  Windy weather, fresh snow, 75% of climbers gave up.

  Gutu used oxygen from C3 to smt to C3.
  Sherpa used oxygen from C4 to smt to C3.

  Left BC on 29/09 by heli.


expid: MANA22313
peakid: MANA
year: 2022
route1: NE Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Mingma Gyalje Sherpa
sponsor: Imagine Nepal Manaslu Expedition 2022
smtdate: 2022-09-28
campsites: BC(4800m),C1(5600m),C2(6400m),C3(6800m),C4(7500m),Smt(28/09)
agency: Imagine Nepal
countries:
  Australia, Bangladesh, China, Finland, Germany, Hungary, India, Ireland, Japan, Singapore, Thailand, USA

routememo:
  Report from Ralf Dujmovits:

  Approach: Trekking via Larkya La.

  BC  07/09  4700m
  C1  10/09  5600m
  C2  15/09  6300m
  C3  16/09  6600m
  C4  27/09  7350m
  HPt 27/09  7350m by Dujmovits and Tashi Sherpa, Anni Katri Penttila, Cian 
             O’Brolchain, Tashi Sherpa.

  Dujmovits first summit attempt was on 16/09, however, there was too much snow and he descended to BC the same day.

  When the fatal avalanche happened on 26/09, Dujmovits and Tashi were at C3 and ascended to C4 the following day. It was too windy to summit without supplemental oxygen. They descended to BC where they arrived for lunch.

  On 01/10, Dujmovits started another summit attempt and ascended directly to C2. However, there was too much snow and he abandoned the expedition on 02/10. He left BC on 03/10 by helicopter.

  Climb abandoned due to too much snow and wind.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used

  Sherpa:
    Tashi Sherpa, Tham1 (Everest with Mingma G)


expid: MANA22315
peakid: MANA
year: 2022
route1: NE Face
nation: Poland
leaders: Tomasz Koehler
sponsor: Climbalaya International Manaslu Expedition 2022
countries: Argentina, Canada, France, India, Israel, Spain, Sweden, USA
smtdate: 2022-09-28
campsites: BC(4800m),C1(5600m),C2(6400m),C3(6800m),C4(7500m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Climbalaya
routememo:
  Report from Tomasz Koehler:

  Approach: Trekking to BC

  BC  07/09  4860m
  C1  10/09  5750m
  C2  16/09  6300m
  C3  21/09  6700m
  Smt 28/09  by Koehler and Lhakpa Temba Sherpa (Fore-summit)

  A lot of snow, with forecast showing a late weather window. Climbed from BC to C2 on 26/9. 27/9 to C3. Plan to summit on 29/9 from C4. But at C3 they got a message saying the weather would change for the worse. Decided to summit on 28/9. Started on 27/9 at around 8 pm. Very crowded between C3 and C4. On the way between camps it became very windy. He decided with his Sherpa to leave fixed rope and pass other climbers.

  Had to spend 3 hours only under fly sheet at C4 in the early morning in cold conditions. They decided to give it a try and move on to summit.

  They reached the fore-summit on 28/9 at 9 am. On the top for 30 minutes, and back to C4 at approximately 2 pm. Same day to C3 at 9 or 10 pm. Felt very tired and exhausted and decided to get a heli-evacuation. On 29/9 flown out from C3. Heli to Samagaon and then on to KTM hospital. Bad frostbite (grade 4) on left foot.

  Oxygen: Taken and used by Lakpa Tema and Koehler from C4 to fore-summit and down to C4.

  Accidents: Koehler frostbite grade 4 on big toe of right foot. No amputation necessary.

  Hired: 
    Lhakpa Temba Sherpa from Thame. He summited Everest together with 
      Swedish climber Richard Ramberg in Spring 2022.


  Report from Laura Horta:

  Approach: Trekking to BC.

  BC  05/09
  C1  10/09
  C2  13/09
  C3  18/09
  C4  27/09
  Smt 28/09  by Horta and Sherpas (fore-summit at 8160m) at 11:45 am.

  Started from C3 at 5:30 pm on 27/09. At 9 pm reached C4 and waited until 6 am. Bad storm in the night. Continued at 6 am, on the fore-summit at 11:45 am. Stayed there for 20 minutes. Down to C3 at 8 am. Next day to BC. Helicopter from Samagaon to KTM on 29/09.

  Oxygen: Taken and used by Horta and Sherpas from C3 to highpoint and down to C3.

  Accidents: Horta frostbite grade 1 on one finger of right hand. Will heal completely.

  Hired:
    Pasang Nima Sherpa (HPt)
    Rita Gyalzen Sherpa (HPt)


  Report from Brett Mitchell (client of Dream Himalaya on Climbalaya pmt):

  Approach: Dharapani to Samagaon over Larkya La:

  BC  06/09  4850m
  C1  10/09  5800m
  C2  11/09  6250m
  Hpt 12/09  6560m by Mitchell and Tendi Sherpa

  Continued until 3 Oct on the mountain, but due to heavy snowfall and avalanche risk we were unable to climb higher. Multiple visits were made to C1 and C2 to attempt to climb higher. Avalanche on 26 Sept forced first retreat. Heavy snowfall and avalanches on 2 Oct forced second retreat. After 2 Oct heavy snowfall occurred again and forced the end of the expedition.

  Overall heavy rain and snow were the main issues. We were one of the first groups on the mountain and did early rotations including C1 day trip, then up to sleep at C1, C2 and attempted C3. At the time, I didn't feel 100% when pushing to C3 so we turned around at 6560m and descended to BC. At this point I developed a cough which the doctor recommended waiting a few days before pushing up, but the cough never cleared. Spent 4 nights/3 days in Samagaon to rest up. After this climbed on 26 Sept to C1 on day when avalanche slid above C3 and killed 1 and injured many. Due to avalanche risk at this time we descended to wait a few days for snowpack to stabilize. On 29 Sept returned to C1, then 30 Sept to C2. On 1 Oct we waited for push on 2 Oct, but heavy snowfall of 1.5m on night of 1 Oct ended the planned push to C3 on 2 Oct, then summit on 3 Oct morning. On 2 Oct descended from C2 to BC and observed large avalanche which killed 1 between C2 and C1. Trip ended due to the heavy avalanche risk at that time.

  Left BC on 3 Oct. Return from BC was affected by snowfall/rain/weather. Unable to trek out over Larkya La, so took helicopter finally on 7 Oct.


expid: MANA22317
peakid: MANA
year: 2022
route1: NE Face
nation: USA
leaders: Ben Jones
sponsor: Shangri-La Nepal Treks (SNT) Manaslu Expedition 2022
smtdate: 2022-09-26
smttime: 1042
campsites: BC(4800m),C1(5600m),C2(6400m),C3(6800m),C4(7500m),TrueSmt(26/09)
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  Benjamin Jones, James Bogardus and Daniel Loveless were from Alpine Ascents (AAI). James Morrison and Hilaree Nelson were a separate team on the SNT permit.

  Report from Jim Morrison (Instagram):

  There are no words to describe the love for this woman, my life partner, my lover, my best friend, and my mountain partner. She has been the beacon of light in my life day in and day out.

  On September 26th at 10:42 am we reached the true summit of Manaslu in tough conditions. We quickly transitioned from climbing to skiing in cold and wind with a plan to ski around the corner and regroup with our Sherpa team. I skied first and after a few turns Hilaree followed and started a small avalanche. She was swept off her feet and carried down a narrow snow slope down the south side (opposite from climbing route) of the mountain over 5000’. I did everything I could to locate her but was unable to go down the face as I hoped to find her alive and live my life with her.

  I spent the last two days searching from the air in a helicopter.

  Today with the help of @capt_surendra an incredibly skilled pilot we were able to land at 22,000 feet and search for her. @nimsdaiwas instrumental in helping organize the best team and resources possible and I found her body with the aid of @mt.sherpa today at 10:30 am. I’m in Kathmandu with her and her spirit.

  My loss is indescribable and I am focused on her children and their steps forward. Hilaree Nelson is the most inspiring person in life and now her energy will guide our collective souls.

  Peace be with us all. Pray for her family and community which is broadly stretched across our planet.

  I’m devastated by the loss of her.


expid: MANA22319
peakid: MANA
year: 2022
route1: NE Face
nation: Norway
leaders: Andreas Fjellandsboe
sponsor: Ascent Himalayas Manaslu Expedition 2022
countries: Belgium, France, Germany, Singapore, Switzerland
smtdate: 2022-09-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to bad weather and avalanche danger
campsites: BC(4800m),C1(5600m),C2(6400m),C3(6800m),C4(7500m),xxx
agency: Ascent Himalayas
routememo:
  Jani Thorenfeldt Barfod Facebook (29 Sept 2022)

  Unfortunately, as some of you know, we had to end this year's expedition to Manaslu. The weather has not been on our side, which has created dangerous conditions in the mountains for our sirdar to find it reasonable to continue. On Monday 26/9 there was a big slide between C3 and C4 where many climbers were taken and some died. We were between C2 and C3 when it happened and heard and saw what happened. The panic shouting of the walkie-talkie of the Sherpas is in. When we later reached C3 we met several who had been right by and in the slopes. Torn thunders, crying people and heavy injured that were carried past us. We stayed in C3 the night before returning to BC and now on to Samagaon. Of course I'm sad that the dream of standing on top of the world 8. The tallest mountain did not come true this year, but the mountain stands and new opportunities are coming. Thanks to everyone who followed us during this year's expedition and thanks to mom who updated you when I was offline. (Sidenote: sleeping with an oxygen mask is not great as picture 2 shows) Jani


expid: MANA22320
peakid: MANA
year: 2022
route1: NE Face
nation: UK
leaders: Vivekananthan Thushyanthan
sponsor: Himalayan Shepherd Manaslu Expedition 2022
countries: Taiwan
smtdate: 2022-09-30
campsites: BC(4800m),C1(5600m),C2(6400m),C3(6800m),C4(7500m),Smt(30/09,04/10)
agency: Himalayan Shepherd (Ascent Himalayas pmt)
routememo:
  Vivekananthan Thushyanthan was a client of Himalayan Shephard on the AH permit.
  Grace Tseng was a client of Dolma Outdoors on the AH permit.


  Report from Grace Tseng:

  Approach: Flight by heli
  BC  18/09  4800m
  C1  22/09  5600m
  C2  no sleeping
  C3  24/09  6700m
  C4  no sleeping
  Smt 04/10  by Tseng and all Sherpas.

  Spent two night at C1 from 22-24/09. At C3 on 24/09. On 25/09 down to BC. Waited in BC until 03/10 for weather window. On 03/10 started at 6:30 pm from BC. No time to rest on the way. At C1 at 7:55 pm, at C2 at 10:25 pm, at C3 at 11:20 pm, at C4 at 3:58 am. On the summit at 7:30 am on 04/10. Nima Gyalzen and Grace started together from BC, other 2 Sherpas Phurba Thiley and Lhakpa Tamang joined them from C2 on.

  On the summit for 10-15 minutes. Strong winds, snow, very cold, hostile conditions. Back down at BC at 5:30 pm on 04/10. Had to wait long time at Samagaon for helicopter back to KTM. Left BC on 06/10.

  Grace and Gyalzen heading to Cho Oyu next and Shishapangma after if Grace will be allowed the permit from the Chinese.

  Oxygen: Taken and used by all Sherpas from C2 to summit and down to C2 (6300m). Not used by Tseng.

  Hired:
    Nima Gyalzen Sherpa (S), from Rolwaling
    Phurba Thiley Sherpa (S), from Rolwaling
    Lhakpa Tamang (S), from Kavre


expid: MANA22321
peakid: MANA
year: 2022
route1: NE Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Maximilian Berger
sponsor: Furtenbach Adventures Manaslu Flash Expedition 2022
countries: Austria, Canada, USA
smtdate: 2022-09-23
termdate: 2022-09-24
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to bad weather and avalanche risk
campsites: BC(4800m),C1(5600m),C2(6400m),C3(6800m),xxx(23/09,7000m)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  Team abandoned expedition at 7000m due to avalanche risk and bad weather. Some members used oxygen, some did not. Team left on 24 Sept by heli from BC.

  Furtenbach Adventures Facebook (27 Sept 2022)

  Our entire team is safe and in basecamp. They decided to stay in C3 because of dangerous conditions that day the tragic events happened. After the avalanches they were involved all day in rescue efforts. Thank you lead guide Dave Watson and mountain rescue paramedic Pat Hauser and all our Sherpa team for your heroic efforts in helping other teams in this tragic event. This is what mountaineering stands for! Helping others when in need and leaving your own ambitions behind. Thank you!


expid: MANA22322
peakid: MANA
year: 2022
route1: NE Face
nation: USA
leaders: Terray Sylvester
sponsor: Madison Mountaineering Manaslu Expedition 2022
countries: UK
approach: Heli flight to Samagaon
bcdate: 2022-09-06
smtdate: 2022-09-22
termdate: 2022-09-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to avalanche danger
campsites: BC(06/09,4860m),C1(18/09,5700m),C2(20/09,6400m),C3(22/09,6800m),xxx
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  From Madison Mountaineering Report (26 Sept 2022):

  There was an avalanche reported on Manaslu on September 26th – we are still learning the details around what’s transpired. The Madison Mountaineering team is all safe in base camp and is providing assistance where they can. Our thoughts go out to those affected by these recent events. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester, checks in from Manaslu base camp:

  Hello! This is Terray calling in from the Madison Mountaineering Manaslu (8156m) expedition – it’s September 26th.

  This morning we received the incredibly sad news of an avalanche above Camp 3 (6800m) on Manaslu. We’re very saddened by this and we’re still learning details of what’s happened. We’ve been providing resources as needed and as we can.

  But we also want to say that fortunately, our entire Sherpa team, our climbers and our guide team are all safe on the lower mountain and in base camp (4859m). So, our team is out of harms way and we’re providing assistance as we can.

  We’ll post updates on our social media accounts and here on our blog as necessary in the days and hours to come. We’ll be in touch.


expid: MANA22323
peakid: MANA
year: 2022
route1: NE Face
nation: UK
leaders: Vic Saunders
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Manaslu Expedition 2022
countries: China, France, Italy, Malaysia, Nepal, USA
smtdate: 2022-09-28
campsites: BC(4800m),C1(5600m),C2(6400m),C3(6800m),C4(7500m),Smt(28/09)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Lisa Schultz was a client of Chuldim (Ang Dorge) Sherpa.
  Bruno Dupety and Giovanni Rossi were clients of Vic Saunders.

  Report from Vic Saunders:

  Approach: Dharapani by road, trekked in to Bimthang up to Larkya La, down to
            Samagaon for 1 night, then to BC.

  BC  09/09  4810m
  C1  18/09  5700m  2 nights, then back to BC
  C2  20/09  6400m  1 night
  C3  21/09  6800m  1 night, then back to BC for 22-25 Sept

  Went up to C2 on 27 Sept, came down BC on 28 Sept, 1 Oct down to Samagaon and flew same day.

  Slope between C3+C4 still avalanche prone. Did not want to put his people and Sherpas in unnecessary danger. Quote: Shows how some people have a different risk/reward ratio.


expid: MANA22329
peakid: MANA
year: 2022
route1: NE Face
nation: USA
leaders: Maxwell Bond
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Manaslu Expedition 2022
countries: Canada
approach: Samagaon by heli
bcdate: 2022-09-06
smtdate: 2022-09-16
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to avalanche danger and bad weather
campsites: BC(06/09,4800m),C1(10/09,5700m),C2(16/09,6400m),xxx
agency: Beyul Adventure
routememo:
  From IMG:

  30 September, 2022

  Our IMG team has decided to withdraw from Manaslu in consideration of the avalanche hazards. Now they have finished removing their equipment from the upper camps and the team is all together at Base Camp and soon will be descending to Samagaon and heading to Kathmandu.


expid: MANA22334
peakid: MANA
year: 2022
route1: SW Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Jost Kobusch
sponsor: Jost Kobusch Manaslu Expedition 2022
approach: By Jeep to Dharapani, trekked to BC
bcdate: 2022-09-13
smtdate: 2022-09-14
termdate: 2022-10-08
termnote: Abandoned at 4300m due to bad conditions
othersmts: Summited Chulu West (CHUW-223-01)
campsites: BC(13/09,4200m),xxx(14/09,4300m)
agency: Satori Adventures
routememo:
  Approach: Jeep to Dharapani, trekked to BC.

  High point on 14/09 at4300m (above Dona Lake Manaslu SW) by Kobusch. Climb abandoned on 08/10 due to bad conditions on the mountain.

  The plan was to climb the direct SW Face of Manaslu. Solo, unsupported and in alpine style. Last village Nache at 2200m on 12/09. From there to Dona Lake at 4200m. Set up base camp at Dona Lake on 13/09. Two porters carried loads to BC and walked back. From the lake he checked a potential route, the plan was to cross an icefall to get to the Butterfly Valley, just below the SW Face. He had to cross a rock covered glacier to 4400m behind BC. Reached his Manaslu highpoint on 14/09 at 4300m. A lot of rain every day and the unusually long monsoon prevented him to go any higher. A lot of avalanche danger. Also, he contracted Dengue Fever and had to stay in the tent for 4 days. On 18/09 Kobusch walked down to Nache to relax. He decided to climb Chulu West to acclimatize, hoping that conditions on Manaslu would get better in the meantime.

  After he ascended Chulu West he went back to Nache and waited for better weather. Final decision to abandon expedition on 08/10. Back to KTM by jeep on 11/10.


expid: MANA22335
peakid: MANA
year: 2022
route1: NE Face
nation: USA
leaders: Ben Lieber
sponsor: SummitClimb Manaslu Expedition 2022
countries: Finland, Netherlands, Russia, Turkey
approach: By Jeep to Dharapani, trekked to Samagaon via Larkya La
bcdate: 2022-09-11
smtdate: 2022-10-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(11/09,4965m),C1(18/09,5600m),C2(20/09,6300m),C3(01/10,6700m),xxx
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  SummitClimb Facebook:

  02 Oct - SummitClimb members + Sherpa descended to basecamp today and our entire team is safe and sound. Last night, a storm came to the mountain and deposited at least 1 meter of new snow. We have made the decision to end our expedition due to avalanche danger, incoming weather, and it being the last days before we are supposed to return to Kathmandu. While we give up the summit, we embrace our collective well-being and look forward to returning home to our loved-ones with stories of the great mountain!

  01 Oct - Our team is in Camp 3 and resting before attempting the summit. Temperatures are cooler now and team members await calmer winds before going up higher. Camp 3 is 6700m.

  20 Sept - All members are warm and cozy at Camp 2 (6300m). Everyone worked hard today to navigate the fixed lines up the glacier, at times the rope went up vertical ice shelves. Myself and the sherpa team are very proud of their efforts! We are now above the clouds in mountaineering paradise. Our Sherpa team worked extremely hard to set up this camp and help team members reach it today. Very proud!

  18 Sept - Our team is in Camp 1 for the night. We enjoyed a winding walk up the glacier crossing many crevasses in a light snowfall. Now getting ready to sleep at 5600m, we are filling our stomachs with tea & hot noodles before tucking away into warm sleeping bags.

  17 Sept - Our team is happy and healthy and patiently waiting for good weather. In the mean time, we have become fully acclimated to 5000m. Today we stayed warm and dry in basecamp during a heavy snowfall. Tomorrow we are hoping to head uphill for nights at camp 1 and 2. Our Sherpa team has been hard at work stocking Camp 1 with everything we need for the upper mountain. We are proud of their efforts!


expid: MANA22336
peakid: MANA
year: 2022
route1: NE Face
nation: Israel
leaders: Shlomo Gdaliahu
sponsor: Snowy Horizon Manaslu Expedition 2022
countries: Austria, Germany, Ireland, Italy, Japan
smtdate: 2022-10-01
smttime: 1215
campsites: BC(4800m),C1(5600m),C2(6300m),C3(6850m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  Report from Andreas Lattner:

  Approach: Dharapani->Larkya Pass->Samagaon

  BC  09/09  4800m
  C1  11/09  5600m
  C2  13/09  6300m
  C3  22/09  6850m
  Smt 01/10  by Lattner at 12:15 pm.

  Czerny and Lattner started together from the common Camp 3 at 6600m, since their own tent set up at 6850m was burried under an avalanche. Czerny turned around at 7400m at 6 am (too cold for her). Good weather and conditions until 12 pm, then weather started to change; white-out, wind and snowfall during the descent.

  Lattner together with four Iranians managed to find the tents of Camp 4 and 5 pm and spent the night there snowfall and wind during the night made the descent rather dangerous the next day (some avalanches).

  Oxygen was not used.

  The couple left BC on 3 Oct.


expid: MANA22338
peakid: MANA
year: 2022
route1: NE Face
nation: China
leaders: Chan Kin-Kowk
sponsor: Trekker Nepal Manaslu Expedition 2022
countries: Iran, Portugal
approach: Dharapani by road, trekked over Larkya La to BC
smtdate: 2022-09-28
campsites: BC(4800m),C1(5600m),C2(6300m),C3(6800m),Smt(28/09)
agency: Trekker Nepal
routememo:
  Mt. Manaslu Expedition, By Larry Chan, Hong Kong

  Period: 2022-09-02 to 2022-10-03

  Mt. Manaslu, a very attractive name for a first time 8000 climber like me. Mt. Manaslu is also regarded as a relatively easy mountain amongst the 14 Peaks (above 8000m). Climbers always take that as a stepping stone for climbing Mt. Everest later on. My ambition bears the same direction, because I had already done 3000m, 5000m and 7000m mountains. It is obvious and necessary to test my physical at 8000m, just above the ‘Death Zone’ before going any further.

  As a previous customer of Trekker Nepal, and a friend of Wangda Sherpa, Managing Director of the Company, I sought advice from him in March 2022 without second thought. Climbing a high mountain is no joke. Climbing a high mountain above 8000m is, nevertheless, a life-threatening activity. Wangda had soon prepared all the hardware and software for the expedition within that half-year period. I also prepared myself physically and mentally, of course, at sea level altitude.

  Time flied and soon the departure date arrived, i.e. 2nd September 2022. I landed on Kathmandu International Airport at midnight, and Wangda was waiting for me right outside the arrival hall. Without worrying a bit, I moved into a comfortable and clean hotel, named Hotel Mudita.

  After a few days of preparation on kits/equipment and paper work, we took a jeep departing to Besisahar, where we changed to a more functional jeep to Dharapani. Together with us were another Sherpa Gelgi and two other climbers, Xavier of Portugal and Foad of Iran. Three of us were so excited about the coming challenge, as we were all the first time 8000 climbers.

  From Dharapani, we started the 60km trekking towards the Base Camp. It was not an easy trek, like that from Lukla to Mt. Everest Base Camp. We had to pass through a high point of Larke Pass at 5106m. The elevation from 2000m to 5000m and then back to 3600m before reaching Base Camp at 4800m within the four days trek was a challenge to me. I haven’t tried such quick ascend and descend before. Therefore, I kept monitoring my body response during the trek. Wangda and his team also looked after each and everyone carefully. We all stayed comfortably in guesthouses during the trek, and all with hot water shower, which were unexpected for me. Eventually we all arrived at Base Camp in good shape without any adverse symptoms. Xavier and Foad had proven themselves as strong climbers in those four-days trek. On the other hand, I kept my strategy as a slow but distant hiker. When we were walking up the Base Camp, I met my personal Sherpa at around 4200m. His name was Chhiring.

  Out of my expectation, the arrangement of Trekker Nepal was marvelous. The personal tent, canteen, kitchen, bathroom and toilet were neatly set up. The personal tent was actually a single sleeping room size, which gave maximum privacy and comfort to the climber. I would say it was much better than the guest houses. The chef was also tremendous, making each and every meal a unique and delicious one. That helped a lot in the exhausting Base Camp routine. We also started our acclimatization, skill training and preparation as soon as we arrived the Base Camp. Chhiring, Furi and Gelgi (The three personal Sherpa) for us had made all necessary arrangement for the climbing. What we had to do was keeping our positive mentality and stamina.

  From 10 September to 24 September, we went up and down to Camp 1, Camp 2. I found myself acclimatized very well. Skill-wise, I could manage the harsh climb, in particular from Camp 1 to Camp 2, more easily. Chhiring, Furi and Gelgi were all very strong and helpful. They could carry 40-50kg pack, with faster walking speed than anyone of us. I had also checked the SpO2 value of Chhiring at 6800m. That was 100%. Yes, I made it clear, it was 100%. I was around 85%. You could tell why they could handle all the activities like we were handling at sea level.

  After series of training and acclimatization, we decided to go summit from 25 September, with summit push in early morning on 27 September. We went to Camp 2 on 25 September. Without any problem raised, we slept there for rest. After a night of sleeping, we moved to Camp 3 on 26 Sepember. We arrived after two hours something, which was also within our expectation. The weather was clear and reasonably good, without any strong wind. But the smoothness was the precursor of disaster. After reaching Camp 3 by noon, we witnessed an avalanche from the upper ridge above Camp 3. From my guessing, it was about a kilometer away from us. But the worst thing was some climbers were seen walking on the slope. The avalanche was directly above them. It only took some seconds to swipe the group of climbers and they soon disappeared from our sight. It was really a disastrous happening. Though we have heard about avalanche very often, it was the very first time we saw it directly on the mountain, which endangered a whole group of climbers.

  After series of rescue actions, Wangda asked us if we would like to continue. The Sherpas were ready to take us up if affirmative. But he also advised us safety was their most prior concern over any other matters. That said, we considered it really seriously. That night, we stayed at Camp 3. The synapses were crushed with loads of different ideas. Wangda was really supportive and said he would do whatever we came up with.

  Eventually I decided to return to Base Camp as the ‘Mountain is always there’. Foad from Iran, however, would try his best to continue the summit push. As Xavier and me were coming down towards the Base Camp, we heard it from Sherpas that there were some more avalanches happened near Camp 1 and Camp 2. I was really unsure whether my decision was right or wrong. We also worried about Foad’s situation.

  After a night of resting in the Base Camp, I kicked off my return trip back to Kathmandu. Then another terrifying video clip was propped up in social media. Another avalanche happened near the Base Camp and destroyed some tents with injuries of some climbers. The information also mentioned there were some death cases. I was totally depressed. But there was obviously some luck amongst our team.

  To sum up, my climbing trip was not regarded as a successful one. That was a call by the nature. Human being is just too tiny to get hold of the situation. However, Trekker Nepal supported us in an utmost professional and serious manner. They cared not only the result, but the safety of their clients. That gave us tremendous confidence to forget about any worries in our heads. Climbing is not a one-off activity. What we should learn is the rule of the nature. I will definitely get back to Nepal for another climb, and Trekker Nepal is my first choice for sure.


expid: MANA22340
peakid: MANA
year: 2022
route1: NW Pillar
route2: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Helias Jean Millerioux
sponsor: French Manaslu NW Pillar Expedition 2022
approach: Dharapani by road, trekked to Bimthang
bcdate: 2022-09-18
smtdate: 2022-09-28
termdate: 2022-10-09
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to bad snow conditions and bad weather
agency: Holiday Himalaya Treks
campsites:
  BC(18/09,3590m),ABC(19/09,4500m),xxx(21/09,5100m); BC2(24/09,4800m),C1(25/09,5600m),C2(26/09,6300m),C3(28/09,6700m),xxx

routememo:
  The trio intended to climb the pillar left to Beghin-Muller route on the NW Face, then to try for the summit of the mountain and down via the normal route of the NE Face. 

  Approach: Trek to Bimthang (lodge).

  BC  18/09     at Bimthang
  ABC 19-21/09  4500m
  HPt 28-29/09  6700m at C3 on the normal route

  Climb abandoned on: no specific date due to general bad weather and mountain conditions (too snowy). Left BC on 9 Oct.

  19-21/09: the trio went up to an ABC, first trying to have a look to its objective, waiting during 3 consecutive days under the rain/snow. The short look at the pillar proved it to be prone to objective risks (threatened by 5 seracs). Yet, the team spotted a safer steep rock buttress located option lower to the left.

  On the 21/09: the trio went up into the screes about 500/600m above the ABC, getting into the first couloir (located left to the axis of the main couloir) until the proper climbing’s beginning (about 5100m). On that same day went back down to Bimthang. 

  23/09: trio joined Samdo
  24/09: trio reached Manaslu normal route BC 
  25/09: trio up to C1 on the Manaslu normal route
  26,27/09: trio up to C2
  28/09: trio up to C3, which would be the maximum reached.
  29/09: trio back to BC

  During that period on the normal route the mood wasn’t at its best, with various accidents on the mountain and some avalanches (including one who made them afraid).  
  Back to Samdo, the trio stayed there to enjoy the comfort of the lodge. Considering the weather forecast, with already way too much snow in altitude (knowing west side of the mountain was even more prone to snow fall than east side), the trio knew the attempt on Manaslu NW Pillar itself was over.

  The trio then considered to attempt some line in the Nemjung area instead, imagining the lower parts of the mountain would be quicker to purge from snow. But when passing back Larkya La on the 8th of October, breaking the trail, the trio could only abandon facing the 1.5m of fresh snow. At the col itself, the trio found the body of a Nepalese [treking guide] recently dead in the snow.

  Trio left Bimthang on the day after, then Nepal on the 12 October.

  Despite the conditions this season on the mountain, the trio found the line to be sufficiently beautiful to come back and give it a try later.


expid: MANA22341
peakid: MANA
year: 2022
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Toshiyuki Yamada
sponsor: Japanese Manaslu Expedition 2022
approach: By heli to Samagaon, trekked to BC
bcdate: 2022-09-10
smtdate: 2022-09-27
termdate: 2022-10-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6850m due to avalanche danger and bad weather
campsites: BC(10/09,4800m),C1(14/09,5600m),C2(15/09,6200m),C3(20/09,6650m),xxx(27/09,6850m
agency: Khangri Trek (Elite Exped pmt)
routememo:
  Approach: Heli KTM to Samagaon, trekked to BC.

  BC  10/09  4800m
  C1  14/09  5600m
  C2  15/09  6200m
  C3  20/09  6650m
  HPt 27/09  6850m above C3 by Yamada.

  Initial plan was to summit alone on a speed ascent. Summit push started at BC on 26/09 at 6:15 pm. Reached C3 at 00:30 am. There he changed clothes, rested for 1 hour and continued. Reached his highpoint at around 6850m sometime in the early morning. Strong winds and he decided to turn around.

  He tried again on 01/10, but weather very bad. Got to C3, stayed there for 2 nights waiting for better conditions, but didn’t happen. Back to BC on 03/10. An avalanche destroyed parts of the base camp on 03/10 and he decided to abandon the climb. Left BC on 03/10 flight to Samagaon and on to KTM.

  Climb abandoned on 03/10 due to avalanches, bad conditions.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

  Funded by Japanese Alpine Club Tokai Section.


expid: MANA22401
peakid: MANA
year: 2022
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Alex Txikon
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks (SST) Manaslu Expedition Winter 2022-2023
countries: Italy
approach: By heli to lower BC
bcdate: 2022-12-23
smtdate: 2023-01-06
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2023-01-07
campsites: LBC(23/12,3700m),BC(25/12,4850m),C1(26/12,5800m),C2(04/01,6250m),C3(05/01,6950m),TrueSmt(06/01)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Approach: Heli to BC.

  LBC 23/12  3700m 
  BC  25/12  4850m (Simone Moro arrived at 01/01)
  C1  26/12  5800m
  C2  04/01  6250m
  C3  05/01  6950m – little higher than normal C3
  Smt 06/01  by Tenjen Sherpa (Lama), Pasang Nurbu Sherpa (Magpa), Mingtemba Sherpa,
             Chhepal Sherpa, Pemba Tashi Sherpa (Maila), Gyalu Sherpa and
             Alex Txikon at 9:30 am.

  When Txikon arrived with his team and some trekkers, they set up interim BC between Samagaon and the regular Manaslu BC at 3700m where they spent two nights. When the trekkers left, Txikon and the Sherpa team moved to BC at 4850m on 25/12 and the following day they ascended to C1 at 5800m. After they had set up camp, they carried some gear up to 6100m and descended again to C1 to sleep. Chhepal and Txikon shared a tent while the other four members of the team shared another one. At about 3:45 am on 27/12 the wind blew so hard that Tixkon’s and Chhepal’s tent nearly got ripped, so the pair moved in with the others. They spent a horrible night up there and at 10:30 am the following day, the whole team descended to BC in about 1.5 hours. They spent two nights at the higher BC and descended to the lower BC at 3700m on 29/12 where they stayed until 01/01/23 when Simone Moro arrived.

  On 04/01 at 7 am Chhepal, Moro and Txikon ascended to C1 in 3 hrs 50 mins. They had a short rest at C1 and continued to their C2 which they established inside a big crevasse at 6250m. During the ascent from C1 to C2, Moro turned back as he had an upset stomach. He descended to BC the same day and left by helicopter on 06/01, the minute when they heard that the team had summited.

  Chhepal and Txikon slept at 6250m, while the rest of the team slept at 6400m.

  On 05/01 Chhepal and Txikon left their C2 at 10 am and reached C3 at 3 pm where they met the rest of the team.

  They went to sleep at 7 pm on 05/01 and departed from C3 for their summit push between 10:45 pm and 11.15 pm. They must have reached C4 at 7400m at around 4 am as the cook who was at BC said he saw the last head torch at around 4:15 am. They continued to the summit, but it was extremely windy.

  When they departed from C3 it was about -40 degrees; however, on the way to C4 Txikon, who wore a downsuit and an orange jacket, had to take off the jacket as he was too hot. After C4 the wind was very strong (around 45km/h) and continued to blow all the way to the summit. The only part the team was protected from the wind was just below the summit ridge, as there was a small dip which gave them some shelter. At around 6:30 am the weather improved a bit.

  Once they had reached the false summit, they followed the line of Mingma Gyalje. They found the black and yellow rope that Mingma G fixed this autumn. They cut a red rope that was already fixed and then they fixed the rest with 60m. They reached the summit in the following order:

  Mingtemba
  Tenjing
  Pasang Nurbu
  Pemba Tashi
  Alex Txikon
  Chhepal
  Gyalu

  The team spent about three minutes on the summit as it was too windy to linger around for longer. Txikon was very scared of getting blown off the summit by the wind. They descended to BC with a 10-minute-stop at C3 where they arrived at 6 pm.

  The total ascent time from BC to the summit was around 60 hours.

  “At 7800m I nearly died of dehydration. I could not drink as the water was frozen inside our bottles that were inside our downsuits. We broke the bottles with our crampons and drank a bit. I subsequently used ice from the floor and melted it in my mouth. From C4 to the summit there was no fixed rope and I felt quite exposed I was so tired. It did not get much better on the descent. I was so exhausted. I could not walk more than 60 steps on the way down. After I was able to drink and had some gel, I felt better.”

  Accident:

  During the descent, Pemba Tashi (Maila) took a 400m fall. The young (and apparently very strong) Sherpa slipped on an icy slope while walking ahead of him at roughly 7200m.

  Txikon was with Makpa [Gyalu] and Mingtemba and they could only stare at how he fell and fell, and the trail he left behind in the snow, and how he jumped [was airborne] at some points. Pemba Tashi remained still for 15 minutes and bled quite a lot. Somehow, Tashi managed to resume the descent under his own steam and made his way to C1 where we met him again.

  “Pemba Tashi is extremely strong, but he was very sad as he was so close to dying,” Txikkon said. On 07/01, the team was picked up by helicopter. Pemba Tashi was taken to hospital but did not have much injuries. He was fine.

  From Explorer’s Web 10/01/2023:

  We used the [Rolwaling] traverse,” Txikon said. “On the final ridge, there was a red rope, very tight. That was the rope fixed this year [fall 2022], which we used to fix our own white rope. There are 8-10m of rope on a sharp section of the ridge, then you mount it in order to change to the other side of the mountain. There, the red rope continued until a rock another 10m beyond. From that point, you go down a little, below a rocky band, and then climb up 7-8m.”

  https://explorersweb.com/alex-txikon-manaslu-was-more-dangerous-than-i-expected/

  Team left BC on 07/01 by helicopter.

  Fixed rope: To C1 around 100m, plus 600m in exposed sections between C1 and C2; between C3 and C4 around 900m; from C4 to summit 100m.

  Oxygen: Txikon did not use O2

  Ttaken and used from C3 to summit and to C3 by the Sherpas; but the regulators exploded and Chhepal’s mask was not working at all. He shared it with the other Sherpas.


expid: META22301
peakid: META
year: 2022
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Garrett Madison
sponsor: Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam Expedition 2022
approach: Heli to BC from Ama Dablam BC
bcdate: 2022-11-09
smtdate: 2022-11-14
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2022-11-15
campsites: BC(09/11,4400m),C1(14/11,4800m),Smt(14/11)
primid: AMAD22309
routememo:
  This peak is southeast of Chamlang.

  BC  09/11  4400m  (vegetated hillside)
  C1  14/11  4800m  (Sherpa camp)
  Smt 14/11  by Madison, Hesser, Draves, Ang Phurba Sherpa, Dawa Nurbu Sherpa, 
             Tenji Sherpa, Dorje at 2:30 pm.

  Team took helicopter, but staff started from Tumlingtar to Khembalung village (walk to BC about 2 days).

  Sherpa team fixed the route 13/11. It was mainly rock and 5.7 US grade and quite vertical. There was some hard snow as well. The team and Madison wore crampons to climb the route.

  Team left BC at 2 am and Sherpas were up at high camp as they had fixed the rope the previous day. At about 6 am they reached the Sherpa camp. The route to C1 was easy scrambling. The Sherpas had fixed a quarter of the route the previous day and on summit day they resumed fixing, so progress was slow.

  Descent was a combination of abseil and down-climbing. They reached BC at about 7:30 pm.

  Walters stayed at BC.

  This team took a permit for nearby Ek Rate Danda.


expid: NGOF18101
peakid: NGOF
year: 2018
route1: W Ridge from S
nation: Austria
leaders: Wolfgang Drexler
sponsor: Austrian/German Dhechyan Khang Expedition 2018
ascent1: 1st
countries: Germany
approach: Jomsom by air->Chusang by Jeep->Tange->Damodar Kunda->BC
bcdate: 2018-05-11
smtdate: 2018-05-15
smttime: 1140
termdate: 2018-05-16
othersmts: Summited Dhechyan Khang (DHEC-181-01) and Saribung on 8 May
campsites: BC(11/05,4900m),ABC(13/05,5100m),Smt(15/05)
agency: Langtang Ri Trekking
primid: DHEC18101
routememo:
  Nagoru Far-East (1st Ascent)

  BC  11/05  4900m (Nagoru Yak Kharka)
  ABC 13/05  5100m
  Smt 15/05  by Drexler, Thallmair, Lawang Tamang at 11:40 am

  Route: South Couloirs/West Ridge

  On 12/05 they did a recce and found their ABC, on a point where two rivers merge. On 13/05 they set up their ABC. On 14/05 it snowed all day, so they were not able to move. On 15/05 they left ABC at 6:10 am. They reached a couloir at 9:35 at 5400m, which would be rocky in dry weather, but it was covered in about 20cm. When they got out of the couloir at about 5700m they reached a ridge, which lead to the glacier left of them. They reached blue ice, where they roped up and put in a few anchors.

  They stayed about 10 minutes on the summit as the weather closed in. They were down-climbing and thought it would have been better to have two ice axes for the descent. They reached ABC at 2:30 pm, where they stayed the night.

  Additional information:

  Key to Nagoru Far-East is the ABC, which is located in the northeast of Nagoru Yak Kharka, the big Yak grazing zone at 4900m high above the ruins of the former village of Nagoru.

  At Yak Kharka one turns to the east and circumvents the lower slopes of Nagoru East without descending to arrive at another "Kharka" (some stone ruins there, but today almost no water). Here one heads to the northeast, slightly ascending to the edge of the plains, where Nagoru Far-East becomes fully visible for the first time. Then you cross two small side valleys and a steep ascent to the north will bring you to a small saddle which hides a perfect ABC at the other side and close to a small river at 5100m.

  After summiting Nagoru Far East, the team left ABC on 16/05 and descended to Phu.

  Hired:
    Lawang Lama Tamang, Ramche-2, 28/03/1978


expid: NGOF22301
peakid: NGOF
year: 2022
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Wolfgang Drexler
sponsor: Austria-Nepal Nagoru Expedition 2022
ascent1: 2nd
smtdate: 2022-10-25
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2022-10-29
campsites: BC,ABC(5100m),Smt(25/10)
agency: Langtang Ri Trekking
routememo:
  An entirely new and direct route via the SE Ridge was successfully completed (the first ascent in 2018 was achieved via the west-ridge).

  From the ABC at 5100m we followed a valley to the northeast till its end, where a steep slope leads up to the lower end of a glacier on the saddle between Nagoru Far-East and the next peak to its east [Hulang 6374m]. A very steep snow and ice wall leads up to this glacier, which we then crossed to its western end. There a rocky ridge (the SE Ridge) leads up to the summit area itself which is still completely glaciated. The final 150 meters are extremely steep. Here we climbed on solid snow above blue ice up to the flat summit plateau, where the highest point is located a few hundred meters further to the west. Then we descended to ABC.

  First attempt: On October 22nd we started to prepare the new route and arrived at an altitude of 5750m in the early afternoon. We refrained from a summit attempt as we might have ended up in the dark on the way back to ABC.


expid: PHNG22301
peakid: PHNG
year: 2022
route1: W Face of S Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kisuke Goto
sponsor: Japanese Alpine Club Himalaya Camp Phungi Expedition 2022
termnote: Abandoned at 6510m due to AMS and frostbite of members
campsites: BC,C1(5530m),xxx(6150m)
agency: Khangri Trek
routememo:
  From Explorersweb (29 Oct 2022):

  Kisuke Goto and two other members of Japan’s Himalayan Camp team attempted Pungi (6524m). Because of altitude sickness, they had to turn around at 6150m. Goto mentioned a lot of snow on the mountain — not surprising, given the endless monsoon that has affected all the peaks in Nepal this autumn. He had planned the climb three years ago, but had to delay it until now because of COVID restrictions. They plan to return to try again.


expid: PTHE54101
peakid: PTHE
year: 1954
route1: S Glacier
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Edmund Hillary
sponsor: New Zealand Alpine Club Barun Valley Expedition
ascent1: 1st
countries: UK
smtdate: 1954-05-24
routememo: Michael Ball, Norman Hardie, Brian Wilkins, Ang Dawa Sherpa
primid: MAKA54102
othersmts:
  Climbed Baruntse (BARU-541-01), Pethangtse (PETH-541-01), Chago (CHAG-541-01) and Nau Lekh (NAUL-541-01) (all 1st ascents); attempted Cho Polu (CHOP-541-01) and Makalu II (MAK2-541-01); recon Makalu (MAKA-541-02)


expid: PUMO22302
peakid: PUMO
year: 2022
route1: SE Face
nation: France
leaders: Perrick Fine
sponsor: French South Face Pumori Expedition 2022
approach: Lukla->Namche->Gorakshep BC
bcdate: 2022-10-15
smtdate: 2022-11-01
termdate: 2022-11-02
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to cerebral edema of Gonzalez
campsites: BC(15/10,5140m),Biv1(01/11,5900m),xxx(01/11,6300m)
agency: Holiday Himalaya Treks
routememo:
  Approach: EBC (at Gorak Shep)

  BC   15/10  Gorak Shep
  Biv1 01/11  5900m
  Hpt  01/11  6300m by Xavier Cailhol.

  Climb abandoned on 2 Nov due to cerebral edema of Corentin Gonzalez at Biv 1. Left BC on 2 Nov.

  Route: SE Face (Japanese route)

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used

  Other peaks: Lobuche East for acclimatization

  Accidents:
    Fine was sick, thus didn’t reach base camp.
    Gonzalez got a cerebral edema.

  Pierrick Fine didn’t reach base camp, got ill during the approach march. Back on the 17 October in France.

  Xavier Cailhol (6300m) and Corentin Gonzalez (5900m) went to dig for various options including the NW Ridge (but its approach was too dangerous), then a direct line connecting the Romanian line to the Scottish line. Eventually chose for a repeat in alpine style of the SW Ridge.

  Duet attacked 1st of November until 5900m by the normal route (SE Face, Japanese route). Made a bivouac below a serac. Cailhol went up to 6300m on the same day to check for a better campsite possibility. Gonzalez wasn’t well in the evening, already breathless; then got sick through the night, coughing blood, developing a cerebral edema. In the morning, considering his situation, duet came back down to Gorak Shep, being evacuated by helicopter. Next 3 days at CIVEC hospital for Gonzalez.

  About Jean-Marc Morchel accident on AMAD, Cailhol’s report about Pralhad Chapagain management of the rescue. According to Cailhol, Chapagain was overwhelmed by the situation. Cailhol proposed to help for the rescue, being acclimatized (3 days after being back down from Gorak Shep), but Chapagain refused (asked 300E in advance). Cailhol estimates they lost 20 hrs to launch the rescue, knowing Morchel died in the next morning. Cailhol trapped in the middle of the situation, with JMM’s wife contacting him for info. All-in-all a rather unnice last week in KTM. Cailhol will send a report of the non-rescue events.


expid: PUTH22301
peakid: PUTH
year: 2022
route1: NE Face
nation: Ireland
leaders: Jonathan Beswick
sponsor: Irish Putha Hiunchuli Expedition 2022
countries: UK
termnote: Abandoned due to bad weather and deep snow
agency: Satori Adventures
routememo:
  From JustGiving website:

  Kevin's World's Highest Bike Ride - An official world record attempt.

  Guinness World Record Highest Bike Ride 4 charity for Byrne Family Foundation because we’re building a new hostel for recused children.

  Event: The World's Highest Bike Ride - official world record attempt, from From September 30, 2022 to October 12, 2022.

  Most will know I don’t often ask for sponsorship, but this is exceptional.

  I’m trekking up mount Putha Hiunchuli in the Himalayas. A 7.25k high mountain. It’s in the top 100 highest mountains in the world where the air is half as what it is down here with temperatures as low as -30. With a bike on my back, I’ll trek to the top and cycle down. It'll be a Guineas world record highest bike ride if I’m successful.

  I’m raising money for Hope House for Boys and Girls. Boys rescued off the street and Girls rescued from the sex trade. 100% of any funds raised will go to help finish a new hostile we are building for the boys.

  The hostel is close to being finished but due to a rise is costs we will not have enough to buy beds, furniture and kitchen equipment.


expid: SATO22301
peakid: SATO
year: 2022
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Stefano Ragazzo
sponsor: Sat Peak Expedition 2022
approach: via Taplejung
bcdate: 2022-10-23
smtdate: 2022-10-31
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2022-11-06
campsites: BC(23/10,4500m),ABC(24/10,5300m),C1(03/11,5800m),ForeSmt(31/10,6100m)
agency: Magical Nepal
routememo:
  BC         23/10  4500m
  ABC        24/10  5300m (below glacier)
  C1         03/11  5800m
  (Fore)Sumt 31/10  6100m (east) by Ragazzo and Loreggian by 2 pm.

  Flight to Bradhapur. Two days in a jeep to Taplejung and Sekthum. From there they trekked three days to BC to Kambachen, from where they walked to BC in about five hours. 

  Base camp was on grass with a small river where they could collect water. The way to ABC was on a rocky moraine and not very technical. It took them about 5 to 6 hours the first time as their pack were heavy. The second time with lighter packs took them 3 hours. They spent two nights at ABC they looked for the best route to climb the mountain. They descended to BC and stayed for a few days before they attempted the mountain.

  On 30/10 they ascended to ABC. For their summit attempt they left ABC at 4 am. They walked across the glacier for about 3 hours and started climbing at around 9 am. The route was a mix of rock and snow at an average grade of V and M4. They climbed in heavy mountaineering boots and crampons. They pitched some of the sections. They reached the fore-summit at 2 pm. When they looked across to the main summit, which was about 100m horizontal distance they decided that the ridge was too dangerous. They descended (down-climbing and rapelling) to ABC where they arrived at about 6 pm.

  On 01/11 they descended to BC.

  On 03/11 they ascended again in order to attempt the summit ridge again. They took another ice axe and more snow stake and thought that if they had more time, they would be able to negotiate the ridge. They did not sleep at ABC, but put a camp at 5800m. However, as they were both feeling the altitude that night they descended again to BC on 04/11. They left BC on 06/11.

  Team also took a permit for Sharphu V.


expid: SHER22301
peakid: SHER
year: 2022
route1: NW Ridge of Shershon Lho-SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Guido Candolini
sponsor: Ticino Shershon Expedition 2022
countries: USA
smtdate: 2022-11-06
termnote: Abandoned at 6112m due to dangerous route to main summit
othersmts: Summited Shershon Lho (6112m)
campsites: BC(5235m),C1(05/11,5920m),xxx(06/11,6112m)
agency: Ticino Treks
routememo:
  Climbed NW Ridge of Shershon Lho (6112m) with plan to continue to Shershon (6432m) via SW Ridge. Team aborted climbed due to difficult knife-edge ridge connecting Shershon Lho with Shershon peak.


expid: SITA22301
peakid: SITA
year: 2022
route1: W Face of W Smt
nation: France
leaders: Boris Langenstein
sponsor: Climbalaya Dhaulagiri II Expedition 2022
approach: Dolpo->Dunai->Mukutgaon
bcdate: 2022-09-25
smtdate: 2022-10-02
termdate: 2022-10-13
termnote: Abandoned at 6420m due to bad weather
othersmts: Attempted Dhaulagiri II (DHA2-223-01)
agency: Climbalaya
primid: DHA222301
campsites:
  BC(25/09,4000m),C1(28/09,4600m),C2(29/09,5000m),Biv3(30/09,5700m),Biv4(01/10,5380m),xxx(02/10,6420m),Biv5(02/10,5380m)

routememo:
  Approach: Dolpo->Dunai->Mukutgaon

  BC   05/09  4000m (at Mukutgaon).

  Sita Chuchura details:

  C1   28/09  4600m
  C2   29/09  5000m
  Biv3 30/09  5700m
  Biv4 01/10  5380m
  Biv5 02/10  5380m
  Hpt  02/10  6420m (200m below the W Smt (6622m) of Sita Chuchura by all members).

  Climb abandoned on >03/10 due to bad weather for 10 consecutive days. Left BC on 13 or 14 Oct.

  DHA2 Route: NE Face

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used

  Other peaks: Sita Chuchura (W Smt 6622m), see details below.

  •  Reconnaissance of DHA2 NE Face approach:

  26/09: The day after their arrival to Mukut, the duet went up straight to check the approach to DHA2 NE Face. Soon the duet faced a serious obstacle, making it unsure to achieve even that approach: the glacier was showing a 200m waterfall (between 4400m and 4600m) surrounded by smooth slabs under seracs. The approach would be complex for the least!

  The pair yet found a solution left to the glacier, using ledges to climb/scramble up for about 700m of denivelation until the glacier plateau located afoot of the NE Face. That section involved highly exposed traverses on ledges above rock buttresses, by the way being prone to stonefall. To be able to find their way back in a near future, the duet put some cairns all the way long. Having reached the footstep of the face, the duet discovered a rarely austere place.

  Despite delicate and exposed, back down to the difficulties, the duet concluded it was feasible to reach the DHA2 huge NE Face. To be mentioned that the duet planed an on-sight descent from the top of the NE Face.

  The duet took a rest day at BC.

  •  6 days round trip in autonomy down Sita Chuchura’s W Summit including a magnificent first ski descent.

  C1   28/09  4600m
  C2   29/09  5000m
  Biv3 30/09  5700m
  Biv4 01/10  5380m
  Biv5 02/10  5380m
  Hpt  02/10  6420m (200m below the W Smt (6622m) of Sita Chuchura by duet).

  28/09: the duet left BC, walking up the valley to sleep at a 4600m place located southeast to “Neni Goth” on the Finn Map, west to Mukot Himal.

  29/09: the team continued its approach up the valley, establishing a next camp at 5000m down afoot of the west shoulder of P5975m.

  30/09: the duet had spotted on Google Earth a circa 5800m col (a little less on the Finn Map, that col is located straight southeast to the point 5985m) allowing to access southwest-wards the valley located afoot of DHA2’s NE Face. The reality happened to be different from computer!

  On this day, the team would first have to go down to 4800m, then up to 5800m. Facing dry conditions, the duet almost thought it would never cross the col. Following many ledges and interconnected couloirs, reaching the col itself eventually involved steep ground, 50° slopes with some rock climbing, all this feeling harder considering the 25+kgs of the bags.

  The duet had first hoped to sleep at the col itself, but the latter was too sharp, and on the other side the ground was extremely steep. Thus, the team down-climbed 50m to sleep on a platform at circa 5700m.

  That face opposes a problematic access: orientated north, it involves to cross large 30° slopes prone to avalanche.

  01/10: On the next day, the team gave a try to the NW Ridge of Sita Chuchura’s West Summit (6622m), going up by skis towards large exposed/prone to avalanche slopes. Eventually in a dead-end, it came back down, making a 20m abseil at some stage. Went back down via the southwest slope below the 5800m col to sleep at 5380m.

  02/10: As the previous day’s option was abandoned, the team chose to go up towards the West Summit of Sita Chuchura (6622m, unclimbed for HD and 8000ers.com!) via its pristine remote West Face. The lower part was a bit exposed down to the seracs. "A magnificent suspended line between seracs and rocks, amazing ambiance!" The first 800m (5400m to 6200m) consisted in steep and sustained ground; from there, the duet reached the aforementioned NW Ridge, following it up to 6420m in very bad weather (wind and fog). Above that was only left a large snowy dome with cornices on the left and crevasses which all looked fine. However, the team had already pushed to the limit in difficult weather conditions, previously leaving its poles and ice axes in the snow to be able to retrace their steps. Despite just 200m down to the top, the team chose to abandon. Then the enjoyable ski descent occurred, just demanding two 20m abseils (the first one in an icy section; the second one at a small serac). Amazing ski descent in a nice snow in a magnificent place, facing the huge pristine DHA2’s NE Face in front of them.

  That night the duet slept again at the 5380m camp.

  03/10: Went back down via the long glacier, then used the cairns to bypass the icefall, then went back to BC.

  From then, the duet faced 10 consecutive days of bad weather and abandoned their attempt on DHA2.

  Boris back to France whereas Tiphaine stays in Nepal for a new kayak trip.


expid: TENS22301
peakid: TENS
year: 2022
route1: W Face-SW Ridge (up), E Ridge (down)
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Matija Volontar
sponsor: Matija Tengi Ragi Tau South Expedition 2022
ascent1: 3rd
approach: Jeep to Bupsa, trekked to Thengpo (4330m) via Namche and Thame
bcdate: 2022-10-10
smtdate: 2022-10-24
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2022-10-29
campsites: BC(10/10,4330m),ABC(23/10,5300m),Smt(24/10)
agency: Dream Himalaya Adventures
routememo:
  Approach: Jeep to Bupsa (below Lukla), trekked to Thengpo via Namche and Thame. 

  BC  10/10  4330m at Thengpo Lodge
  ABC 23/10  5300m at top of rock passage below W Face
  Smt 24/10  by all members.

  Original plan was to climb South Ridge of Tengi Ragi Tau. While acclimatizing in the vicinity they saw the West Face of Pomlaca and spotted a potential and beautiful line and decided to give this a try instead.

  West Face up, East Ridge down. Walked 4 hours from Thengpo Lodge towards Tashi Lapcha Pass. ABC located on top of a rock passage at a snow plateau. On summit day they set off from ABC at 6 am. They first crossed the glacier and bergschrund to get to the face. First part through the West Face, then along SW Ridge to the summit. W Face 70°-80° steep the whole time. Climbing was harder than expected. First three pitches after bergschrund were the most technical and difficult. Mixed climbing. Before exit to SW Ridge there was another technical rock section about Grade 4-5. SW Ridge a bit easier, but first part also quite technical. On the summit at 3 pm. Weather was good, but cold. Stayed on summit around 30 minutes, sunny on the top.

  Descent via East Ridge. They had acclimatized on the lower East Ridge before and knew parts of the descent. First part of descent rather easy to down climb. Then more difficult, rappel one pitch. Back to the lodges at Thengpo at 8 pm.

  Left BC on 29/10 and trekked back to Lukla and flight to Ramechap.

  Route name: Screaming Barfies

  Climbing route: West face-SW Ridge up, East Ridge down

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

  Records: (Team claims FA but climbed before in 2003 by Czech?)


expid: THAM22301
peakid: THAM
year: 2022
route1: SW Couloir-S Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Shinji Tamura
sponsor: Active Mountain Thamserku Expedition 2022
approach: Lukla->Monjo->BC
bcdate: 2022-10-07
smtdate: 2022-10-23
termdate: 2022-10-26
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to unstable snow situation and lack of fixed rope
campsites: BC(07/10,4400m),C1(13/10,5200m),C2(22/10,6090m),xxx(23/10,6300m)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  Team started climbing from SW side of couloir, the couloir is constantly 40-45 degrees, but good snow conditions. South Ridge is narrow and some rocks, ice steep section. Team ran out of the fixed rope and the condition of the ridge was narrow and was not a stable snow situation.

  Team left BC by heli on 26 Oct.


expid: AMAD23103
peakid: AMAD
year: 2023
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Alexandre Andre Raymond
sponsor: Fourteen Summits Ama Dablam Expedition 2023
countries: Czech Republic, S Africa, Singapore, Slovakia, Vietnam
smtdate: 2023-04-15
smttime: 1720
campsites: BC,C1,C2(~6000m),C3(~6300m),Smt(15-16,20/04)
agency: 14 Summits
routememo:
  Summit:  15/04 by Furtenji Sherpa, Ram Bahadur Magar
           16/04 by Lubomir Snopko, Lakpa Dendi Sherpa
           20/04 by Sabin Magar

  Details of climb :

  Furtenji and Ram Bahadur summited as a part of the rope-fixing team on 15/04 at 5:50 pm. Sujan Gurung also part of that team, but no summit.

  Snopko and Lakpa Dendi summited on 16/04 at 1:30 pm.

  Sabin Magar summited on 20/04 at 8:30 am.

  Mistrik and Raymond did not get higher than C3 because of illness. Skalos highpoint C3 as well, he felt too tired to proceed higher. Nicholas Nan highpoint C2, did not get higher because of bad weather. Kupcak, Thanh and O’Riordan reached their highpoint at C2. They all fell ill and did not climb higher.


expid: AMAD23107
peakid: AMAD
year: 2023
route1: SW Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Yash Khandelwal
sponsor: Pioneer Ama Dablam Expedition 2023
countries: Canada, France, Georgia, Germany, Japan, UK, USA
smtdate: 2023-04-28
campsites: Smt(28/04,07/05)
agency: Pioneer Adventure
routememo:
  Report from Justyne Morlain:

  Approach: EBC trail

  BC  18/04  4990m
  ABC 19/04  5400m
  C1  20/04  5800m
  C2         6200m (didn’t sleep at C2)
  Smt 28/04  by Coline Girod
  HPt 02/05  6450m by Justyne Morlain

  Left BC on 2 May

  Sherpas: None
  Oxygen:  Not taken, not used
  Records: First French female solo ascent

  Other peaks: Lobuche East, Island Peak

  • Acclimatization

  The duet first reached Khumbu in the beginning of April.

  On 14 April, duet climbed Lobuche East from Dzonglha (4900m) in 6h (3:00-9:00 am) despite poor acclimatization.

  Then knowing too dry conditions were not good for their primary objective (the duet had intended to repeat “Le quatuor à corde”, route of 22-23 October 2018 by 4 French http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215115) or some other project on the North Face (Spanish route among other things), they chose to try for Ama Dablam instead. Bad weather would prevent them for any summit first.

  18 April: Reached BC (4990m)
  19 April: High Camp (5400m)
  20-21 April: 2 nights at C1 (5800m)
  22 April: duet touched C2 (6200m) and went back down to High Camp for sleeping on the same day.

  From there, disagreeing on the method, the pair split for a while. Girod would go on her side to Ama Dablam’s normal route. Meanwhile Morlain had met two other French climbers, Nathan Lioret and Aude Léglise. The trio would further acclimatize on Island Peak, climbing it in a day round-trip from Chhukung on 27th of April.

  • Coline Girod AMAD, SMT on 28 April 2023

  Knowing bad weather was approaching, Girod climbed Ama Dablam’s normal route in a single push over a two days round trip from BC on 27 and 28 of April.

  26 April: night at BC.
  27 April: up to C2, leaving it at 23:30-23:45.
  28 April: summit at circa 9;30 am, back to BC on the same day. 
  30 April: left BC for Pangboche.

  Wind would accompany her for the whole ascent mostly carried during the night. After a cold summit in the morning of the 28th of April, shared with other ropes, she came back down to BC on the same day.

  According to the HD, it’s the third solo female ascent of the peak (both previous times by the same normal route) and first French solo. Previous solo ascents of AMAD:

  Mallorie Sue Estenson, AMAD-223-11.
  Carole Fuchs, AMAD-163-60.

  Coline and Justyne flew from Pangboche to KTM by helicopter on the 5th of May.

  • Justyne Morlain AMAD, HPt on 2 May 2023

  Justyne attempted the normal route a few days after Coline’s ascent with her 2 aforementioned partners. All 3 together would be alone on the mountain. Following recent snowfalls, they wouldn’t make it to the summit; Lioret and Léglise abandoning circa 200m below the summit.

  29 April: trio slept at BC (4990m)
  30 April: trio slept at C1 (5800m)
  01 May: trio went up to C2 (6200m), leaving the latter at 11 pm for the summit push.

  02 May: Morlain abandoned at circa 6450m at 3 am (AMS). Lioret and Leglise abandoned at 6650m at 9 am. All were back at noon at C2, then to Pangboche on the same day.

  Coline and Justyne flew from Pangboche to KTM by helicopter on the 5th of May.


expid: ANN123101
peakid: ANN1
year: 2023
route1: N Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Mingma Gyalje Sherpa
sponsor: Imagine Nepal Annapurna Expedition 2023
countries: Canada, China, Japan, Macedonia, Romania, UK
approach: Heli to BC
bcdate: 2023-03-22
smtdate: 2023-04-15
smttime: 1115
termdate: 2023-04-16
campsites: BC(22/03,4200m),C1(25/03,5066m),C2(27/03,5500m),C3(13/04,6200m),C4(6700m),Smt(15/04)
agency: Imagine Nepal
routememo:
  Report from Jill Wheatley:

  Approach: Heli to BC

  BC  22/03  4200m
  C1  25/03  5066m
  C2  27/03  5500m
  C3  13/04  6200m
  C4         6700m
  Smt 15/04  by Wheatley, Pemba Chhiring at 3:30 pm.

  On 28/03, the Sherpas tried to get to C3 but there was too much snow and a big crevasse. They came back to C2 where Wheatley and the rest of the team stayed. Wheatley was feeling very bad and had the feeling that she had pneumonia. The Sherpas were intending to move back up to C3 on 29/03, but the weather deteriorated, and they descended to BC.

  On 30/03, Wheatley flew to Pokhara to hospital where she stayed for one week, where she was put on antibiotics, steroids, and other medication to get rid of her pneumonia/chest infection/bronchitis. On 05/04 she flew back to Kathmandu and stayed there until 09/04 when she flew to Pokhara. On 10/04, they drove to Dana and from there to BC.

  On 11/04, she ascended to C1; on 12/04 to C2; on 13/04 to C3. On 14/04, they left for C3 for the summit at 7 pm. They summited at 3:30 pm and spent about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they had a short rest and then continued to C3 on 16/04.

  On 16/04, she was picked up by helicopter from C3 and flown to CIWEC in Kathmandu, where she spent another few days.

  Oxygen:  Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Wheatley and Pemba
  Sherpas: Pemba Chhiring, Solukhumbu


expid: ANN123102
peakid: ANN1
year: 2023
route1: N Face
nation: UK
leaders: Nirmal Purja
sponsor: Elite Exped Annapurna Expedition 2023
countries: Austria, France, Qatar, USA
bcdate: 2023-03-07
smtdate: 2023-04-15
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2023-04-17
campsites: BC(07/03,4200m),C1(10/03,5000m),C2(12/03,5400m),C3(13/04,6500m),C4(6700m),Smt(15/04)
agency: Elite Exped (Imagine Nepal pmt)
routememo:
  Report from Alasdair McKenzie

  Approach: Heli to BC	

  BC  07/03  4200m
  C1  10/03  5000m
  C2  12/03  5400m
  C3  13/04  6500m (lower)
  C4         6700m
  Smt 15/04  by McKenzie, Dorjee Sherpa at 12 noon.

  The other members of Nims’ team summited the same day, but a bit later. Nims Dai, Asma, Anna Gutu and their Sherpas.

  McKenzie and the rest of the team started the summit push from C3 at 7 pm on 14/04, his Sherpa Dorjee was already higher up to fix the rope. McKenzie hooked up with Dorjee about 2 hours below the summit. He had come down from the summit from his rope-fixing trip. The weather was windy, the traverse to the summit was hard and icy. They spent about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to C3 where they arrived at 5 pm. On 16/04 descended to BC.

  Left BC on 17/04 by helicopter.

  Oxygen:  Taken and used from 6800m to summit to 6800m by McKenzie & Dorjee.
  Sherpas: Dorjee Sherpa

  After Annapurna, McKenzie is going to Dhaulagiri, Everest and Kangchenjunga.


  Report from Sabrina Filzmoser:

  Mostly dry beginning of March, perfect conditions, but cold, sometimes little snow, high winds, then much snow, more wind, whenever there’s been some sun, massive avalanches and with melting snow quickly seracs also broke down.

  Jetstream very strong from W or NW.

  Ropes got quickly buried, every time new trail/trace, mostly knee-deep, sometimes hip-deep.

  Filzmoser left early, due home to start her police work in Austria on 11 April.


expid: ANN123103
peakid: ANN1
year: 2023
route1: N Face
route2: NW Face (Bielecki & Hatala)
nation: Pakistan
leaders: Shehroze Kashif
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks (SST) Annapurna Expedition 2023
smtdate: 2023-04-15
smttime: 1135
campsites: BC(4200m),C1(5050m),C2(5700m),C3(6400m),C4(6700m),Smt(15-17/04)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
countries:
  Australia, Brazil, Bulgaria, Georgia, Germany, India, Iran, Ireland, Nepal, Norway, Russia, Serbia, Singapore, Switzerland

routememo:
  Report from Adam Bielecki:

  Rescue of Anurag Maloo (the Indian climber)

  On 20/04 the team supported SST to rescue the Indian climber. Bielecki and Hatala were picked up by helicopter on 20/04 and were taken to C2. They had to ascend for about 30 minutes until they reached the crevasse, which was in a very dangerous place as there were seracs right above it. Bielecki was lowered down through the narrow gap of the crevasse and he saw three holes in the ice. He went down one of the holes and descended the entire length of his rope which was about 60m. At the very end, he found Anurag in a snow-hole completely covered in snow. Bielecki first touched him with his feet and then went closer and Anurag moved, which scared Bielecki and he tought that he had lost his mind. But when Anurag moved again he took a head torch and looked into his eyes and could see his eyes move. He called up and asked for Tashi, another Sherpa who helped him set Anurag up for being hauled up. 

  The whole rescue effort took about 6 hours and they managed to helicopter Anurag to Pokhara where he was in a hospital for a few days before he could be moved to Kathmandu. On 30/04, Anurag was still in a coma but started to respond. According to Chhang Dawa of SST, he only has a few frostbites which is amazing given the fact that he was out in the open for three nights.

  After the rescue the team stayed for another few days at BC as they were contemplating attempting the normal route again. However, due to the bad weather, they abandoned the idea and left BC by foot to Hum Khola on 28/04. Hum Khola to Tatopani by Jeep and then by plane from Pokhara to Kathmandu.

  Note: Maloo released from Indian hospital in October 2023.


  Report from Moses Fiamoncini:

  Approach: From Dana to BC by helicopter

  BC  23/03  4200m
  C1         Didn’t sleep a  C1
  C2  28/03  5500m
  C3  13/04  6450m
  C4         Didn’t sleep C4
  HPt 15/04  8020m by Fiamoncini

  Climb abandoned on 17/04 due to fatigue.

  Left BC on: 17/04

  Sherpas above BC: 0

  Oxygen: Taken and used by Kaze from C3 to HP 6500m and back to C3
          by Moeses on descent from 6450m to 6250m.

  Moeses climbed with his partner Ram Kaze from Lukla, Nepal. According to Moeses, he wasn’t his Sherpa, but an equal climbing partner. They started for the summit from C3 at 8 pm on 14/04. Kaze reached highpoint on 6500m just after starting from C3. He turned back at 8:20 pm because he felt not strong enough. Moeses continued alone. Moeses at his high point at around 8 am on 15/04. Felt too tired for last metres to summit. Turned back at an altitude of 8020m. Maybe he lacked some acclimatization. Back at C3 at 9:30 pm. Wanted to do another summit push, but didn’t because Kaze was not good and Moeses stayed with him. Both back to BC on 17/04.

  In between C2 and C3 Moeses saw Indian climber Anurag Maloo fall into a crevasse while rappelling at 6000m. He used a wrong rope which was not long enough. On 18/04 Moeses assisted searching for Maloo in helicopter. Later that day in the afternoon he left BC to Pokhara.

  Moeses Fiamoncini (HPt: 8020m) 
  Ram Kaze (HPt: 6500m) (from Lukla?)

  Retured to Ktm on 20/04.

  Leave Nepal: doesn’t know yet. Has permits for Dhaulagiri and Kangchenjunga, but is not sure yet if he will go on another climb this season.


  Report from Sajid Ali Sadpara:

  Approach: trekking via Tatopani

  BC  17/03  4200m
  C1  24/03  5050m
  C2  29/03  5700m
  C3  12/04  6400m
  C4  14/04  6700m
  Smt 15/04  by Sadpara at 12:30 pm

  Sadpara left C4 with the fixing team at 9 pm on 14/04. He was the only one not using O2. He carried a coil of rope. The snow was good. When they reached the couloirs it took a long time to fix it. It was a long summit day. He spent about 5 minutes on the summit. It was changeable and windy. He descended to C4, where he arrived at 5 pm.

  Left BC on 17/04 by heli to Tatopani.

  He stayed in Kathmandu for 10 days and then he took a plane to Lukla and from Lukla to Pheriche and then to EBC.


  Report from Arjun Vajpai:

  Approach:  heli to BC

  BC  20/03  4200m
  C1  01/04  5000m
  C2  --     5700m
  C3  15/04  6400m  (lower camp)
  C4  16/04  6700m
  Smt 17/04  by Vajpai, Hanna & Lakpa Sherpa, Shehroze Kashif, Naila Kiani, 
             and 3 Sherpas at 7:30 am

  Summit team started at 7:25 pm on 16/04. Weather and conditions were good. Ropes were fixed until about 7800m and then the lines were cut. So group had to climb without fixed rope. Straightforward climb. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit. Vajpai, Kiani and Shehroze and their three Sherpas descended together and reached C4 at about 12 noon. Hanna and his Sherpa (Lakpa) arrived at C4 at about 5 pm.

  Vajpai was very dehydrated as he hardly drunk anything on the ascent and descent. There are no real resting points on Annapurna. When they reached C4, there was no gas, no food so they could not rehydrate or eat. They decided to stay the night despite the lack of food. Lakpa Sherpa had some gas left and gave them some soup.

  On 18/04, at around 4:30 am, Hanna’s Sherpa called out that Noel was no longer breathing.

  Noel's body was picked up from C4 and brought to Kathmandu. His wife and brother arrived in Kathmandu on 19/04 and they will take Noel’s body back to Ireland.

  Descent: team picked up from C4.

  Vajpai, Shehroze, Naila felt very bad in the morning, and they were long-lined off C4. The helicopter picked them up at around 10 am and dropped them at BC where they collected their stuff and continued to Kathmandu, where Vajpai and Kiani went to hospital to be rehydrated.

  Baljeet Kaur is said to have summitted at 8 pm on 17/04. Her Sherpas had left her and she was on the summit on her own. She went missing and was pronounced dead by the media, however, she was rescued by Claudio Mittner, the Swiss pilot, very near to the summit at about 7900m.

  According to Vajpai, most climbers from Annapurna 1 were picked up from C3 after the summit!!!

  The Polish skiers were already at C3 and they heard that the Indian man had fallen into the crevasse. 

  Khoo Swee Chiow was also with the summit team, but turned around 7100m.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 by all members.


  Report from Amrit Kumar Negi:

  Approach: To BC by heli

  BC  19/03
  C1  24/03
  C2  29/03
  C3  13/04
  C4  15/04
  Smt 16/04 by Kumar and Sherpa at 6 am.

  Kumar and Sherpa reached the summit at 6 am. They stayed for 20 minutes. Good weather and good views. Down to C2 at 11 am. Next day to BC. At BC at 1 pm. Heli from BC to Dana on 18/04, Jeep to Pokhara, one night at Pokhara, then KTM.

  No frostbite, no accidents.

  Oxygen: Taken and used by Kumar and Sherpa from C4 to summit and down to C2. 

  Hired:  Pemba Sherpa (S)

  Leave Nepal: not sure yet, might head to Lhotse and Makalu.


  Report from Alina Pekova:

  Approach: By heli to BC from Dana. 

  BC  19/03  4200m
  C1  24/03  5060m
  C2  29/03  5500m
  C3  13/04  6400m
  C4  15/04  6770m
  Smt 16/04  by Pekova and Sherpa

  Pekova and Sherpa were the first of 16/04 batch to summit. Summit by Pekova at 3:30 am, Pasang shortly later at 3:40 am.

  They had started at 7:30 pm from C4. Clear and nice conditions, not windy. In the night the wind started to get stronger. Stayed on the summit for 30 minutes, at the very top it was windy and cold. Reached C4 at 7 am. One hour rest at C4 and then on to C3. Wanted to go to C2 straight, but decided at lower C3 to stay there and rest. Slept at lower C3. Next day to BC. On 18/04 heli from BC to Dana, Jeep to Pokhara. On 19/04 by Jeep to KTM.

  No frostbite, no accidents.

  Oxygen: Taken and used by Pekova from C4 to summit and down to C4.
          By Sherpa from 7000m to summit and down to C4.

  Hired:  Pasang Sherpa (S)

  Other peaks: Might go to another 8000m peak later this season.


expid: ANN123104
peakid: ANN1
year: 2023
route1: NW Face (to 6200m)
route2: N Face (to 6000m)
nation: Poland
leaders: Adam Bielecki
sponsor: Polish Annapurna NW Face Expedition 2023
approach: Heli to BC
bcdate: 2023-04-04
smtdate: 2023-04-18
termdate: 2023-04-28
termnote: Abandoned due to dangerous conditions
campsites: BC(04/04,4200m),IC(10/04,4532m),ABC(11/04,5200m),Biv(18/04,6200m),xxx
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Approach: Heli to BC

  NW Face route:

  BC  04/04  4200m
  IC  10/04  4542m (tent)
  ABC	11/04  5200m (tent) 
  Biv 18/04  6200m (hanging bivouac)
  HPt 18/04  6200m by Bielecki and Hatala

  From the usual Annapurna BC their route starts to the right with a 200m-descent. The first time they went to ABC, the way was hard to find. They were able to walk on the left of the glacier, but sometimes they had to get on the glacier as there was too much rockfall from the wall to the left. On the first rotation they stayed two nights at ABC. On 12/04, they ascended to the Bergschrund at about 5400m, and on 13/04 back to BC.

  For the second rotation, team left BC on 17/04 and went to ABC in about seven hours. The route was in good condition, and it was up to 60-degree snow, firn and ice. The danger on this route was the rockfall. It was very warm and the climbers got occasionally hit by rocks. They set up their hanging bivouac about 200m to the left of the route as it was protected from the rockfall. On 19/04 they abandoned the climb due to the great rockfall danger. They did not return to the ascent route but went straight down to ABC in 1:20 min from their bivouac. They packed up ABC, left at 12 noon and descended to BC.

  The route is getting a lot of sun (from 9 am to 2 pm), which is strange as it is the NW Face.

  Abandoned on 18/04 due to too much rockfall.

  Attempt on normal route (N Face)

  At the beginning of the expedition, the team was waiting for Felix Berg who was on Manaslu and as they did not want to waste time, they attempted the normal route. However, they decided that it was too avalanche prone and abandoned the climb at C2.

  C1  06/04  5000m
  C2  07/04  6000m

  Rescue of Anurag Maloo (the Indian climber)

  On 20/04 the team supported SST to rescue the Indian climber. Bielecki and Hatala were picked up by helicopter on 20/04 and were taken to C2. They had to ascend for about 30 minutes until they reached the crevasse, which was in a very dangerous place as there were seracs right above it. Bielecki was lowered down through the narrow gap of the crevasse and he saw three holes in the ice. He went down one of the holes and descended the entire length of his rope which was about 60m. At the very end, he found Anurag in a snow hole completely covered in snow. Bielecki first touched him with his feet and then went closer and Anurag moved, which scared Bielecki and he tought that he had lost his mind. But when Anurag moved again he took a head torch and looked into his eyes and could see his eyes move. He called up and asked for Tashi, another Sherpa who helped him set Anurag up for being hauled up. 

  The whole rescue effort took about 6 hours and they managed to helicopter Anurag to Pokhara where he was in a hospital for a few days before he could be moved to Kathmandu. On 30/04, Anurag was still in a coma but started to respond. According to Chang Dawa of SST, he only has a few frostbite which is amazing given the fact that he was out in the open for three nights.

  After the rescue the team stayed for another few days at BC as they were contemplating attempting the normal route again. However, due to the bad weather, they abandoned the idea and left BC by foot to Hum Khola on 28/04. Hum Khola to Tatopani by Jeep and then plane from Pokhara to Kathmandu.

  Oxygen:  Not taken, not used
  Sherpas: None


expid: ANN123105
peakid: ANN1
year: 2023
route1: N Face
nation: Poland
leaders: Bartek Ziemski, Oswald Pereira
sponsor: Polish Ski Annapurna 1 & Dhaulagiri 1 Expedition 2023
approach: By Dana trekking
bcdate: 2023-04-05
smtdate: 2023-04-17
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2023-04-18
campsites: BC(05/04,4200m),C1(06/04,5066m),C2(07/04,5540m),C3(15/04,6330m),C4(16/04,6700m),Smt(17/04)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Approach: via Dana trekking

  BC  05/04  4200m
  C1  06/04  5,66m
  C2  07/04  5540m
  C3  15/04  6330m (lower camp)
  C4  16/04  6700m
  Smt 17/04 by Pereira and Ziemski at 7 am.

  On 11/04, they ascended from BC to C2 and found that the tent they had left up there on 07/04 was swept away by an avalanche. They descended to the lower C2 at 5500m and slept in a tent from a French climber who gave them permission. On 12/04 back to BC and on 13/04 they ascended to C2 to search for their tent but could not find it. They descended to the lower C2 to sleep. On 14/04 back to BC.

  They lost sleeping bags, ropes, mittens, ice axes, food, batteries worth about 5000 Euros. Fortunately, they could borrow some gear from fellow climbers and continue the expedition.

  On 15/04, they ascended directly from BC to C3 which took them 9 hours. On 16/04, they reached C4 and rested there for a few hours and started their summit push at 9 pm. Ziemski carried his skis but had previously used them to skin up to C2 which worked well. However, beyond C2 it was too steep to skin up. The climb was straightforward, and they spent about half an hour on the summit.

  Ziemski skied down from the very top to C4 where he waited for Pereira. It took him about 20 mins while Pereira arrived at about 11:30 am. Ziemski skied all the way to C3 without rappelling and when he got there, he got a radio call from BC to tell him that the Indian Anurag had fallen into a crevasse. When Pereira arrived, they packed up C3 and descended to the crevasse. On the descent between C3 and the crevasse, Ziemski rappelled three times (10m; 12m; 12m). Ziemski wanted to get to Anurag as fast as possible and intended to collect rope on the way, but could not find any. Pereira collected about 50m of pieces of rope on his way. When he collected the last piece of rope, he half fell into a crevasse. Ziemski arrived at the crevasse, where Chhepal Sherpa was waiting. Pereira came down, but during his descent there were several avalanches. At about 4:35 pm when they were both at the crevasse, they decided that it was too risky to attempt a rescue as the mountain threw avalanches and rocks at them. They descended to BC where Ziemski arrived at about 6 pm and Pereira at 10 pm.

  Ski Descent:

  On the rotations, Ziemski skied from C2 all the way to 4100m.

  After summit: All the way from top to C3, from C3 to C2 he did 3 rappels of about 12m each.

  From C2 all the way down to about 4800m. He could not get to the lower point of 4100m due to lack of snow.

  Left BC on 18/04 by helicopter to Dana; from Dana helicopter directly to Dhaulagiri BC.

  Oxygen:  Not taken, not used
  Sherpas: None

  They used the ropes fixed by the Sherpas of the other teams.


expid: ANN123106
peakid: ANN1
year: 2023
route1: N Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Kyoko Iwata
sponsor: Glacier Pioneer Annapurna I Expedition 2023
countries: France, India, USA
smtdate: 2023-04-16
smttime: 0920
campsites: BC(4200m),C1(5100m),C2(5500m),C3(6300m),C4(6700m),Smt(16-17/04)
agency: Grand Himalaya Treks (with Pioneer Adv)
routememo:
  Report from Jonathan Lamy:

  Approach: Trekking from Tatopani

  BC  31/03  4200m
  C1  03/04  5100m
  C2  04/04  5500m
  C3  13/04  6300m (lower C3)
  C4  15/04  6700m
  Smt 16/04  by Lamy, Iwata, both Sherpas.

  Lamy and Ang Chhongbi started from C4 at 8 pm on 15/04. On the summit at 8 am on 16/04. Clear views, good weather. Cold night climbing. Lamy felt too cold, so decided to use oxygen on last metres to the summit to avoid frostbite. They stayed on summit for 20-30 minutes. Back to C4 at 12 pm. At BC on 18/04. From BC by heli to Pokhara.

  Iwata and Chhepa started from C4 at 8 pm. Reached the summit around 10 am on 16/04. Back to C4 at 5 pm.

  Lamy with level 2 frostbite on big toe of right foot, Ang Chhongbi level 2 frostbite on big toe of left foot.

  Oxygen: Taken and used by Lamy from 8000m to summit and on the descent during the night in C3; by Ang Chhongbi from 7000m to summit and down to 7000m; by Iwata and Chhepa from C3 to summit and down to C3.

  Accidents, etc: Frostbite (level 2) Lamy and Ang Chhongbi.

  Hired: Ang Chhongbi Sherpa (S)
         Chhepa Sherpa (S)


expid: ANN123108
peakid: ANN1
year: 2023
route1: NE Face
nation: Norway
leaders: Kristin Harila
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks (SST) Annapurna Expedition 2023 (Kristin Harila)
smtdate: 2023-06-05
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(05/06)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  The Story from Annapurna, 8091m, June 5th

  I'm very happy to be done with Annapurna, one of the most difficult mountains. I'm always more nervous about Annapurna because of the challenging climb and the high risk of avalanche. I was worried about going so late in the season, since there had been no summits since April, and it's a completely different climb to be alone compared to when I did it last year.

  I saw some people ask why there were so many Sherpas on this climb, but it's totally different to climb with no people in the mountain compared when there is a lot of people, which is why there was such a big team of Sherpas, and I'm grateful because they did a great job.

  We arrived in BC and rested until 3 am the next morning, 4 Sherpas were already in C2 and we climbed up to meet up with them. The conditions were ok and we slept until 4am the next morning in C2.

  We left at 5 am with very good conditions. It was a really nice climb up, much easier than last year. We took a 3h rest in C3 before the summit push. We climbed from C3 and used 14h to get to the summit. The climb conditions were Ok and the weather was great. I put on oxygen in C4.

  I was very happy to reach the summit. It was thanks to the really strong team who did a great job.

  We wanted to be as fast as we could while being safe because we knew there could be snow, so I am so impressed by everyone's teamwork and strength. When at the summit you are only halfway and a lot of accidents happen on the way down, so we safely and slowly made our way down to BC with rests along the way at the other camps.

  I felt so so sleepy. I even fell asleep multiple times! So, I'm super tired but happy to be done with 8 mountains in the spring. It's only me and Lama who have done this in such a short amount of time, and I couldn't have done it without him.

  I want to say a huge thank you to everyone who has helped me during this climb: Lama (@tenjin_Shepa) and all the very strong Sherpas: Tenjing Sherpa, Pasang Nurbu Sherpa, Lakpa Temba Sherpa, Mingma Tenjing Sherpa, Pasang Sherpa, Lakpa Gyaljen Sherpa, Seven Summit Treks, all of you and my amazing sponsors!

  Kristin Harila


expid: BARU23101
peakid: BARU
year: 2023
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Surendra Khatri
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks (SST) Baruntse Expedition 2023
countries: Germany, Israel, Malaysia, Peru, Switzerland, USA
approach: Lukla->Zatral La->Khare->BC
bcdate: 2023-04-19
smtdate: 2023-05-03
termdate: 2023-05-06
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(19/04,5400m),C1(28/04,6100m),C2(03/05,6400m),xxx
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Approach: Lukla, Zatral La, Khare

  BC  19/04  5400m
  C1  28/04  6100m
  C2  03/05  6400m
  HPt 03/05  6400m by Hassmann, Rinji Sherpa, Lakpa Tamang, Ashok Lama, 
             Chen Shaked, Joachim Kohn.

  Between 19/04 and 28/04 team deposited gear at crampon point. The Sherpas fixed the rope to C1 during that time when the snow was pretty deep. When Hassmann and the rest of the team ascended to C1 the conditions were better and on 29/04 they ascended to C2, to leave some of their gear, which was mainly technical gear to fix the mountain. On the same day, they descended to BC.

  On 02/05, Ashok Lama who was on the mountain with 8K Expeditions said the expedition was over due to bad weather. However, the rest of the team wanted to give it another go, and on 03/05 they left BC and ascended directly to C2. It took them about nine hours. They had to dismantle C1 as they needed the tents at C2. They pitched their tents and stayed the night. However, on 04/05, the weather was still bad, and as it had dumped about 40cm of snow they decided to abandon the expedition. On 04/05 everyone back at BC.

  Climb abandoned	on 03/05 due to bad weather. Left BC on 06/05.

  The Nepali army was also there to do a clean-up expedition at BC. They did not climb on the mountain (due to bad weather) but collected around 5 tonnes of rubbish from BC and the area around it.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used

  Fixed rope: around 250m

  Sherpas: Rinji Sherpa, 39 years, from Lukla


  William Crouse and Tania Kober were Himalayan Guides clients on the SST permit.


expid: CHND23101
peakid: CHND
year: 2023
route1: SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Matthew Powell
sponsor: Firante Changwatang and Chandi Himal Expedition 2023
countries: Spain
approach: Simikot to Chuwa Khola to Ning Khola to BC
bcdate: 2023-05-14
smtdate: 2023-05-19
smttime: 0945
termdate: 2023-05-21
othersmts: Held permit for Changwatang, but did not attempt
campsites: BC(14/05,4800m),ABC(16/05,5365m),C1(18/05,5740m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Firante Treks
routememo:
  From Agency website:

  Succuss of Chandi Himal
      
  Title: Triumph at the Top: Chandi Himal, Nepal's Unclimbed Peak, Conquered on a Historic First Ascent by Firante Changwatang and Chandi Himal Expedition 2023.

  Date: May 19, 2023

  Humla, Nepal - In an extraordinary feat of mountaineering, the unclimbed peak of Chandi Himal, soaring to an impressive height of 6142 meters in the remote region of Humla, Nepal, has been conquered by the Firante Changwatang and Chandi Himal Expedition 2023. On Friday, May 19, 2023, at 9:45 AM local time, Jaime Iranzo and Pemba Sherpa stood atop the summit, carving their names in the annals of mountaineering history.

  Under the leadership of Mr. Matthew Powell from the United States, the Firante Changwatang and Chandi Himal Expedition 2023 undertook the monumental task of scaling the formidable Chandi Himal. Comprising a team of four climbing members and supported by a dedicated crew of ten Sherpas for base camp operations, this expedition was meticulously organized and coordinated by Firante Trek and Expeditions, with Mr. Janga B. Lama serving as the director.

  The journey towards the summit began weeks prior to the historic ascent, with the team setting up base camp in a secluded valley nestled beneath the imposing peak. The formidable terrain and harsh weather conditions posed formidable challenges, requiring the team's unwavering determination, skill, and resilience.

  The expedition faced treacherous crevasses, steep ice walls, and ever-changing weather patterns, testing the climbers' physical and mental limits. However, Jaime Iranzo, an experienced mountaineer known for his audacious spirit, and Pemba Sherpa, a skilled and seasoned guide, demonstrated exceptional perseverance and teamwork throughout the ascent.

  The expedition's success was the result of careful planning, meticulous preparation, and the unwavering support of the entire team. From establishing higher camps to navigating perilous sections, each member played a crucial role in the arduous and exhilarating journey to the summit.

  As they stood atop the summit of Chandi Himal at 9:45 AM local time on May 19, 2023, Jaime Iranzo and Pemba Sherpa were greeted by the breathtaking panorama of the Himalayas. The euphoria of their accomplishment mingled with profound respect for the untamed beauty that surrounded them.

  The triumphant ascent of Chandi Himal by the Firante Changwatang and Chandi Himal Expedition 2023 marks a significant milestone in mountaineering history. It represents the indomitable human spirit, the pursuit of exploration, and the unwavering determination to conquer the unconquered.


expid: CHOY23101
peakid: CHOY
year: 2023
route1: NW side
nation: Norway
leaders: Kristin Harila
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks (SST) Cho Oyu Expedition
countries: Mexico
approach: From Shishapangma
bcdate: 2023-04-30
smtdate: 2023-05-03
smttime: 1219
termdate: 2023-05-14
campsites: ABC(30/04,5700m),C1(02/05,6400m),C2(12/05,7130m),Smt(03,13/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks, Climbalaya
routememo:
  Report from Kristin Harila:

  Approach: From Shishapangma

  ABC 30/04  5700m
  C1  02/05  6400m
  Smt 03/05  by Harila, Tenzing Lama, Nima [Rita] Sherpa at 12:19 pm (NST).

  Before the team went to Cho Oyu, they summited Shishapangma on 26/04. From Shishapangma BC they left for Tingri on 27/04 and stayed there for a few days until 30/04. From Tingri, they drove to CBC and then walked to ABC. On 02/05 they moved to C1 where they arrived at about 5 pm.

  Summit team, Myklebust and two Tibetan Sherpas left C1 10:45 pm. Tenzing Lama, Nima and a Tibetan went up to fix the icefall underneath C2 and did the fixing as they went along in about two or three places. Myklebust turned back at about 6900m due to tiredness and high winds. He descended to C1 and waited for the rest of the team. Harila is not quite sure where the two Tibetans turned around.

  The conditions on the mountain were very good. Crisp and hard snow – good for crampons. The winds were very high – up to 80km/h. Once they were on the summit plateau, they were criss-crossing to look for the prayer flags to make sure they got to the real summit. They spent about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to C1 where they arrived at 4 pm. They had a rest there for about one hour and descended to ABC, where they arrived at about 9 pm.

  On the way down from the summit, Harila noticed that she got a bit snow-blinded so she needed Lama in front of her to follow him. The snow-blindness cleared after about two days. Once in ABC, they stayed one night walked to BC on 04/05 from where they immediately took a jeep to the border. The border had just closed but they managed to get through, go to Kerung where they were grilled by the Nepali border officials and carried on for another 15 minutes by jeep to meet the helicopter. They flew back to Kathmandu the same day.

  Harila stays a few days in Kathmandu and will fly to Makalu on 09/05 to continue her 14 peaks project. [Harila summited Makalu on 13/05 and is now on her way to Kangchenjunga.]

  Harila and Myklebust left ABC on 04/05.

  Sherpas/Tibetans above BC: 4

  Oxygen: Taken and used from 6900m to top to C2 by Harila and Nima
          Taken and used from above C2 to summit to C2 by Lama.


  Report from Viridiana Alvarez

  Approach: From Shishapangma			Route:	NW-Side – variation. See pic

  ABC 30/04  5700m
  C1  02/05  6400m
  C2  12/05  7130m
  Smt 13/05  by Alvarez, Pemba Tenji, Nima Rita Sherpa at 12:15 pm.

  Before the team went to Cho Oyu, they summited Shishapangma on 26/04. From Shishapangma BC they left for Tingri on 27/04 and stayed there for a few days until 30/04. From Tingri, they drove to CBC and then walked to ABC. On 02/05 they moved to C1 where they arrived at about 5 pm.

  Alvarez was with Kristin Harila who summited from C1 on 03/05, however, she did not feel strong enough and had a sprained ankle she decided not to join her on this push. On 04/05, the team (Pemba Tenjin, Pemba) tried to reach C2, but it was too windy and as the weather forecast was not good they descended to BC on 04/05. They stayed at BC until 10/05 when they ascended to C1. They stayed two nights due to high winds.

  On summit push, team left at 5:30 am. There was some fixed rope from Kristin’s ascent and Nima Rita fixed a few section, on the way to the summit. Weather was good and conditions were very dry. Blue ice. There did not have any rope for the ascent. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to BC where they arrived at 2 am.

  On 14/05 they walked to CBC, then took a jeep to Tingri. On 15/05 drive to Kerung, crossed the border and took a helicopter back to Kathmandu.

  Sherpas above BC: 3

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C2 to top to C2 by Alvarez
          From C2 to top to C1 by Sherpas.



  The Story from Cho Oyu (Kristin Harila)

  It's finally done! The Cho Oyu summit means I completed all the 14 8000m, thank you for all the congratulations. 

  After Shisha, we rested for 3 days in Tingri and went directly up to Cho Oyu BC with one rest day there before starting up to C1. It was a long way up.

  We had a plan to go to C2 from BC but saw that it would be too long to do that so we rested in C1 for 5 hours before starting the summit push of 1800 metres! The longest summit push I have ever done.

  We knew we had a chance with the weather even if there was a lot of wind. So we started from C1 at 1 am. The conditions on the mountain were good with no deep snow. After a little, Matias decided to go back to C1.

  Lama had a high speed because he knew we had to climb such long way and he was fixing ropes as we were climbing. It was windy so at about 6900m I put on oxygen.

  After 14 hours we reached the summit with Lama and Ngima. It's a very very big plateau on Cho Oyu. There were high winds up there and we also saw the Nepal mountains.

  After summitting, we went straight down to C1. There was a lot of wind and I had some problems with my eyes. I was happy to see Matias, Viridiana and the others Sherpas in the team. Then, we decided to go all the way back to BC. The whole journey from C1 to summit and down again took about 23 hours.

  Cho Oyu was the hardest climbs I've ever done, not only because of the very long push, but also the short rests.

  I was super tired after the climb but I am happy that we were able to summit both mountains. Unfortunately, we were only given the permits to climb Shisha and Cho Oyu once.

  Now, I'm enjoying some rest days in Kathmandu before starting for the next step of my adventure.

  Big thank you to my super strong Sherpas who summitted with me: Lama (@tenjin.sherpa.752) and Ngima, as well as all my team (@Climbalaya @Sevensummittreks) and my sponsors.

  Kristin Harila


expid: DHA123101
peakid: DHA1
year: 2023
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Mexico
leaders: Badia Bonilla Luna
sponsor: Seven Summmit Treks (SST) International Dhaulagiri Exp 2023 (Group 1)
smtdate: 2023-05-17
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,Smt(17/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
countries:
  Australia, Brazil, China, Cyprus, France, Greece, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyz Republic, Norway, Taiwan, UK, USA

routememo:
  Report from Vibeke Sefland:

  Approach: Heli from Pokhara.

  BC  05/05  4600m
  C1  10/05  5600m
  C2  11/05  5800m (lower)
  C2  15/05  6600m (higher)
  C3  16/05  7200m
  Smt 17/05  by Sefland and Cheppal Sherpa at 1 pm.

  On 10/05 the weather was very bad and Sefland took 12 hours to C1. She was in the lead, as the Sherpa did not know the way. There were very few bamboo sticks. There was a complete white-out and they had to stop for three hours to wait until the white-out was over.

  On 11/05, they ascended to lower C2 in better weather, however, as the weather was bad, they stayed for four days. On 15/05 higher C2 and on 16/05 to C3.

  On summit day, team left on 11:15 pm on 16/05. It was a bit windy but otherwise Ok. They were behind the fixing team, which slowed them down. After Carlos Soria’s rescue (see below) they stopped for about two hours before they could continue. The fixing team stopped fixing the rope at about 7800m and then decided they were too tired and descended. There was one Sherpa, who fixed the couloirs.

  They spend about 30 minutes on the summit and celebrated Norwegian National Day! On the descent, they were caught in a white-out, which slowed them down again. They had to break trail again on the way down.

  Carlos rescue:

  On the traverse at about 7700m, there was a Sherpa in front of Carlos Soria and Sito Carcavilla who had bad footwork. He fell and slid down at 4:46 am but was still on fixed rope because Carlos and Sito stopped it with their ice axes. The Sherpa climbed up again but during his ascent, he slipped again. And this time, he dragged another Sherpa, Sito and Carlos with him [Carlos suffered a broken leg]. This was at 4:52 am. The whole party stopped for about two hours, during which Carlos was dragged down to Camp 3 by Sito, Mikhail and three other Sherpas. They arrived at C3 at about 4 pm. In the meantime, the two Polish climbers Bartek Ziemski and Oswald Pereira had arrived by heli to Camp 2 from Kathmandu and ascended to C3. When they reached C3, Carlos and Sito were there. They had brought a stretcher, put Carlos in the stretcher and descended to higher C2 and to Sefland’s tent. She had just come back from the summit and had met them just below C3 on her descent. She told them that they could use her tent at higher C2. She continued to prepare the tent with hot water, mattress, sleeping bag, etc. The rescue team arrived between 11 pm and midnight. Bartek and Oswald were so cold, and they descended to the normal C2, where they stayed the night. Sefland stayed with Carlos and Sito till 2 am and descended to the normal C2 at 6400m where she met Chhepal Sherpa who was sleeping. She arrived at 3 am. 

  On 18/05 Bartek and Oswald with a new Sherpa team ascended to high C2 to bring Carlos down to the heli-pad at lower C2. At around 10 am [flown out] by Simone Moro.

  On 18/05 Sefland descended to BC. Left BC on 19/05 by helicopter to Takam, Takam to Pokhara by jeep.

  Oxygen:	from C3 to summit to C3 by all members and Sherpas.


expid: DHA123102
peakid: DHA1
year: 2023
route1: NE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Jitendra Gaware
sponsor: Seven Summmit Treks (SST) International Dhaulagiri Exp 2023 (Group 2)
countries: Canada, Finland, Hungary, Ireland, Kosovo, Pakistan, Poland, UK, USA
smtdate: 2023-05-17
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,Smt(17-18/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Report from Uta Ibrahimi:

  Approach: Trekking to Marpha, drive to Takam, heli to Italian BC.

  BC  16/04  4600m
  C1  24/04  5400m (lower)
  C1  25/04  5600m (higher)
  C2  26/04  5800m (lower)
  C2  11/05  6400m (higher)
  C3  17/05  7200m
  Smt 18/05  by Ibrahimi, Lhakpa [Dorchi], Dorata, Dawa [Nurbu] at 6 am.

  After first rotation, Ibrahami went down to BC on 27/04. On 30/04 there was a lot of snow at BC, so they stayed down. On 09/05, they went to higher C1 and stayed there for two days. On 11/05, they went to higher C2 and stayed three nights.

  On 14/05, Ibrahimi and Lhakpa started their summit push and reached 6900m, but when they heard that there were no fixed ropes to the summit and the weather turned bad they returned to BC on the same day.

  On 16/05 the left BC at 2 am and ascended to C2 in about eight hours. On 17/05 they reached C3 and at 8 pm they started their summit push together with the Dorata from Poland and her Sherpa Dawa. The ropes were fixed until about half-way through the traverse and then they stopped. The team tied some rope together and moved on a main rope to the summit. The Sherpas were not carrying an ice axe and some of them were not even wearing crampons. They took the right colouirs. The conditions were wind-pressed snow.

  They stayed for about 30 minutes on the summit and descended to BC, where they arrived 8 pm. 

  Left BC on 19/05 by helicopter to Takam, Takam to Pokhara by jeep.

  Oxygen:	from C3 to summit to C3 by all members and Sherpas.


expid: DHA123103
peakid: DHA1
year: 2023
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Carlos Soria Fontan
sponsor: Carlos Soria Dhaulagiri Expedition 2023
smtdate: 2023-05-16
termdate: 2023-05-18
termnote: Abandoned at 7650m due to Soria's leg injury from falling
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,xxx(16/05,7650m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  From SST FB page:

  Rescue Mission of Carlos Soria: Successful Evacuation from Mt Dhaulagiri !!

  In a successful rescue mission, renowned Spanish a mountaineer Carlos Soria has been safely evacuated from Mt Dhaulagiri after sustaining leg injuries during his summit push. Soria, accompanied by Sito Carcavilla and a team of Sherpas, encountered the mishap at an altitude of 7650 meters on May 16.

  Upon receiving the message via radio from the Sherpas, immediate efforts were mobilized to evacuate Soria from the high camp. A team of skilled Sherpas, including Mikel Sherpa, and Sito Carcavilla assisted him in descending to a safe point at Camp III. Meanwhile, the ground handling teams in Pokhara and Kathmandu coordinated a series of emergency arrangements, including the deployment of a helicopter with a long line, updates on weather conditions, hospital preparations, and the crucial addition of expert manpower who were well-equipped and acclimatized.

  17 May, in a display of solidarity, Polish climbers Oswald Rodrigo Pereria and Bartek Ziemski, who had previously conquered Annapurna and Dhaulagiri as with SST, without the use of oxygen cylinders, volunteered to join the rescue mission. A helicopter was dispatched from Kathmandu, transporting both climbers, along with essential gear, oxygen, and supplies, to Camp II at an elevation of 6200 meters.

  As Carlos Soria's team descended to Camp III, the group from Camp II began their ascent to join them. By the evening of May 17, the teams converged at Camp Ill, providing necessary assistance to Soria. The following morning (18 May), after a challenging effort, Carlos successfully reached Camp II.

  With the standby helicopter at the ready, flew to Camp II, airlifting Soria and returning to Kathmandu. He was immediately transported to the HAMS Hospital for further treatment. Isidoro (Dr), a dedicated member of Soria's team, has remained by Soria's side, offering continuous support and liaising with medical professionals. The latest reports indicate that Carlos is recovering well, and plans are underway to arrange for his transfer back to Spain to continue his treatment.

  The successful rescue operation would not have been possible without the unwavering
  cooperation and support of all those involved. We and the entire climbing community extends its gratitude to everyone who contributed to this mission. Carlos Soria's indomitable spirit and strength in the face of adversity are a testament to his remarkable character. As both a valued member of Seven Summit Treks and a cherished family member of the climbing community, his recovery is eagerly awaited by all.


expid: DHA123104
peakid: DHA1
year: 2023
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Bartek Ziemski, Oswald Pereira
sponsor: Polish Ski Annapurna 1 & Dhaulagiri 1 Expedition 2023
approach: By heli from Annapurna
bcdate: 2023-04-18
smtdate: 2023-05-14
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2023-05-15
campsites: BC(18/04,4700m),C1(24/04,5700m),C2A(09/04,6150m),C2B(12/05,6400m),C3(13/05,7230m),Smt(14/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Approach: From Annapurna by helicopter

  BC  18/04  4700m
  C1  24/04  5700m (touched only, never slept there)
  C2  09/04  6150m
  C1  12/05  6400m (high camp)
  C3  13/05  7230m (lower camp)
  Smt 14/05  Oswald, Ziemski at 7:30 am.

  On 26/04, they ascended directly to C2 where they deposited some gear and descended to BC the same day. They stayed at BC until 09/05 because it snowed every day until 05/05. They waited for another 4 days at BC for the avalanches to release. On 09/04 they ascended to C2. They had to dig out their tent, but were able retrieve everything. On 10/05, they descended to BC due to the bad weather. It was snowing heavily.

  On 11/05, they ascended to C2, left BC at 11:30 am; on 12/05 the weather was bad, they took their small tent and ascended to high C2, where they stayed the night.

  The ropes were fixed until 6800m. The team passed the rope-fixing Sherpas on their way to C3.

  On summit day, team left C3 at 00:05 am. There were no fixed ropes and they moved without a rope. Snow was wind-pressed and in some places they broke in. They climbed up the East Colouirs and when they reached the ridge, they climbed past the dead body of Alfred Herrman, who died in 1995.

  They spent about half an hour on the summit. Ziemski skied down the West Couloir. 

  Full ski descent (I think it is the FIRST FILL SKI DESCENT)

  Ziemski skied all the way to BC, but took off his skis briefly at C3 to wait for Pereira and at C2 to pack up their tent. Otherwise, he skied all the way. He arrived at BC at 1:30 pm. Pereira arrived at 6:40 pm.

  Oxygen:  Not taken, not used	

  Fixed rope: Used the fixed ropes up to C2

  Left BC on 15/05 by helicopter.


  Ziemski's FB entry of 15/05:

  We got this one! On Sunday, May 14, after 07:30 local time, we entered Bartek Ziemski & Oswald Rodrigo Pereira's team at Dhaulagiri (8167m). Summit attack started from Camp 3 (7230m) at 00:05.

  After climbing the summit, Bartek skied to Base (4700m). I took care of the film and photographic documentation, then I went down to the Base for the night.

  Our summit action lasted 4 days. On May 11, we left the Base directly to the low Camp 2 (6150m). The next day our plans were interrupted by the weather, so we moved just under 6400m. On May 13, we started Camp 3 and after a few hours of rest we headed for the summit. We checked in after a solo climb first of the season.

  The entire expedition took place without the assistance of oxygen from a bottle and without the personal support of the Sherpas.

  Thank you to everyone we shared this expedition with.


expid: DHA123106
peakid: DHA1
year: 2023
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Norway
leaders: Kristin Harila
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks (SST) Dhaulagiri Expedition 2023 (Kristin Harila)
smtdate: 2023-05-29
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,Smt(29/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  The Story from Dhaulagiri, 8167m, May 29th

  It's been some hard and challenging days since we flew from Kathmandu and arrived early morning in Dhaulagiri BC. We decided to go straight to C2 but after a couple of hours, we realized it was too far so we only went up to C1 and stayed one night there.

  The condition from BC was not so good, there was a lot of snow and we had to break trails to go up the mountain. We woke up early the next day and at 7am we started from C1 to go up to what I thought was just going to be C2. But after 6 hours to C2 we decided to continue up to C3. It took us 11-12 hours to reach C3.

  There, we had some tea and food and after that, continued the climb to the summit. After C2, the condition of the climb was much better. Me, Lama, Lakpa and Nima started out around 10:30 and after 23 hours total from C1, we reached the summit!

  It was a very nice climb, and a lot faster than what I did last year between C3 and the summit, the condition was a lot better. Although there was some wind on the summit, it was good before reaching the summit. It was a super nice and amazing morning view with Annapurna behind us.

  We then climbed down from the summit, all the way to BC after 34h. It was my longest summit push EVER.

  I didn't know how we would be able to do such a long summit push but we did it and the Sherpas were amazing. Overall, I'm very very happy we made it and so happy and grateful for the strong team from Seven Summit Treks. It was a really nice climb and we had a great time together. Thank you so so much Lama @tenjin_Sherpa, Lakpa, Nima and Pasang @pasang_rinzee.

  I'm super happy to be halfway through and 7 mountains done, it was all in a very short time and I'm a little tired. Still, I'm super happy now and enjoying some rest days in Pokhara.

  Huge thank you to all the sponsors without who I could not do any of this without (all tagged in the post).

  Kristin Harila


expid: EVER23101
peakid: EVER
year: 2023
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Sherpa Rope-Fixing
sponsor: Sherpa Rope-Fixing Everest South 2023
smtdate: 2023-05-13
smttime: 1352
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(13/05)
routememo:
  A team of 9 Sherpas working for Imagine Nepal summited at 13:52 pm fixing ropes to the top:

    Dawa Gyalje Sherpa
    Ngima Nuru Sherpa
    Lakpa [Sona] Sherpa
    Dipan Gurung
    Pasang Ngima Sherpa
    Lhakpa Tenzing Sherpa
    Phur Geljen Sherpa
    Dawa Jangbu Sherpa
    Suman Gurung


expid: EVER23102
peakid: EVER
year: 2023
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Mingma Gyalje Sherpa
sponsor: Imagine Nepal Everest Expedition 2023
countries: Australia, China, Germany, Hungary, Pakistan, S Africa, Singapore, Thailand, UK, USA
smtdate: 2023-04-14
campsites: BC,C1,C2(6450m),C3,C4,Smt(14-15,17,25/05)
agency: Imagine Nepal
routememo:
  Report from Ralf Dujmovits:

  Approach: Pangboche, Lobuje, Island Peak

  BC         5350m
  C1         6000m
  C2         6440m
  C3         7100m
  C4         7900m
  HPt 23/05  7300m by Dujmovits

  Nancy Hansen was attempting Nuptse. She got as high as ??, but decided to abandon her plan as it would have been too hard and dangerous to do it on her own.

  When Dujmovits reached C2 on 23 May he applied CPR on Ang Kami Sherpa, a cook who then died in his hands. The image of the dying Sherpa haunted him for the next few days and he abandoned his climb. Left BC on 25/05 by heli.

  Sherpas above BC: 1

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


  Report from Matthew Lim (17 May smtr):

  BC  12/04  5365m
  C1  14/04  5900m
  C2  15/04  6400m
  C3  02/05  7100m
  C4  16/05  7950m
  Smt 17/05  by Lim, + Dawa Gyalje Sherpa 
                Benjamin Bruce Mattingly + Pemba Nuru Sherpa 
                Tang Bin + Ngima Dorjee (Buddha)
                Mao Shaoyun + Pasang Ngima
                Li Yifan + Phinjo Dorjee
                Xuming Gu + Pasang Sona
                Zhang Jian + Lakpa Tamang & Bise Bahadur Gurung 
                Zhu Chunmei + Dawa Jangbu Sherpa

  Left high camp at on 16 May at 9 pm. Low winds but poor visibility until about 4 am when the skies cleared. At the summit it was very crowded, saw Kami Rita Sherpa at the top in his striking green down suit for his 27th climb at that point in time.
  The way down was very slow due to traffic jams, took 30 minutes waiting time at the Hillary Step. Returned to C4 around 1-2 pm.


  Report frm Sajid Ali Sadpara:

  BC  08/05  5350m by heli from Annapurna 1
  C1         6000m
  C2  11/04  6440m
  C3  12/05  7100m
  C4  13/05  7900m
  Smt 14/05  by Sadpara at 2 pm.

  Sadpara came from Annapurna 1 and was acclimatised. On summit day, he started at 1:30 am. It was clear and cold. There were about 10 people on the route. Straightforward climb. Further up, it was a bit cloudy and it got a bit warmer. He spent about 15 min on the summit. He descended to C4, where he arrived at 6 pm. During the descent he was very tired and sat down a few times and nearly fell asleep.

  On 15/05 it was very windy. A lot of people came up and it was too busy to go down. Due to the wind and the people he spent another night at C3.

  On 16/05 he stayed at C2. On 17/05 back to BC.

  On 21/05 he left BC to attempt Lhotse.

  C2  21/05
  C4  22/05  7700m
  HPt 23/05  8300m by Sadpara.

  He abandoned his climb. It was very snowy and very cold. His feet got too cold and descended to C2. On 24/05 back to BC. Left BC 26/05	trekking to Lukla.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


  Report from Benjamin Mattingly (Grand Himalaya client on Imagine Nepal permit):

  Approach: Pangboche, Lobuje

  BC  18/04  5350m
  C1  28/04  6000m
  C2  29/04  6440m
  C3  15/05  7100m
  C4  16/05  7900m
  Smt 17/05  by Mattingly and Pemba Nuru Sherpa at 5:10 am.

  On 16/05 the team only arrived at the South Sol at 6 pm due to a long queue on the Lhotse face. On summit day, they left C4 at 8:30 am. There were lots of people on the route. Straightforward climb. They spent about 30 mins on the summit. They descended to C4 where they arrived at 10:30 am. On 18/05 the stayed at C2; 19/05 to BC. Left BC on 20/05 by heli.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C2 by Pemba and Mattingly.


expid: EVER23105
peakid: EVER
year: 2023
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Guy Cotter
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2023
countries: Australia, Germany, Nepal, UK, USA
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Lobuje->Ever BC
bcdate: 2023-04-06
smtdate: 2023-05-23
smttime: 0726
termdate: 2023-05-26
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-231-03)
campsites: BC(06/04,5350m),C1(23/04,6000m),C2(25/04,6440m),C3(08/05,7100m),C4(22/05,7900m),EverSmt(23/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Approach: Pangboche, Lobuje, Everest BC

  BC  06/04  5350m
  C1  23/04  6000m
  C2  25/04  6440m
  C3  08/05  7100m
  C4  22/05  7900m
  Smt 23/05  by Jelly, Ott, Salomon, Chewang Dorje, Pasang Rinji, Nima Chhiri, 
             Lhakpa Chhiri, Samduk, Ang Dorje at 7:26 am, Dawa Chhiri, Heah, 
             Pasang Bhote at 11:30 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 10:30 am. Cold clear night. Straightforward climb. Whole team descended to C4 where they arrived at about 11:30 am. Heah reached C4 at 6 pm.

  Pasang Wongchu reached to above Balcony and below South Summit, but turned back due to cold feet.

  Overton and Thorne reached C4 on 22/05. Overton had respiratory infection; Thorne had sore calf muscles. He tried to go to Lhotse on 24/05, however, when he reached Lhotse C4 he suffered a bad respiratory infection. He descended to C2 and was flown on on 25/05. Overton descended to C2 on 23/05. Mark Austin never attempted to summit and descended with Overton on 23/05.

  Schultz reached about 7000m. She was too weak to climb the mountain and was turned around.

  Alba never intended to go up and stayed at BC as BC doctor.

  Peter Lethbridge (Lhotse only) reached C2, but left the expedition early as he was too slow.

  Cotter never left BC as he was BC manager.


  Lhotse summit on 24/05 by Ott and Pemba Chhewang at 8:30 am.

  Ott and Pemba Chhewang left with Thorne and Sunduk at 1:30 am from the South Col. Thorne abandoned at Lhotse C4 with a respiratory infection. Ott and Pemba descended to C2 after the summit and met Everest team. Everybody back on 25/05.

  Flown out of C2:
    Thorne for respiratory infection on 25/05.
    Lhakpa Chhiring Sherpa for frostbite on his big toe which he contracted on 
      the descent on 24/05.

  Team left BC on 26/05 walked to Namche, heli to Kathmandu on 27/05.

  Sherpas above BC: 15

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members; from C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.


expid: EVER23106
peakid: EVER
year: 2023
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Garrett Madison
sponsor: Madison Mountaineering Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2023
countries: Argentina, Canada, Czech Republic, Germany, Mexico, Netherlands, Switzerland, UAE, UK
approach: Pangboche->Lobuje->Ever BC
bcdate: 2023-04-13
smtdate: 2023-05-24
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2023-05-28
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-231-04) and Nuptse (NUPT-231-01)
campsites: BC(13/04,5350m),C1(24/04,6000m),C2(25/04,6440m),C3(21/05,7050m),C4(22/05,7900m),Smt(24/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Approach: Pangboche, Lobuje, Ever BC

  BC  13/04  5350m
  C1  24/04  6000m
  C2  25/04  6440m
  C3  21/05  7050m
  C4  22/05  7900m
  Smt 24/05  at 9:30 am by
             * Rick Irvine, 
             * Peter Horseman, 
             * Erwin Visser, 
             * Debbie Bulten,
             * Danah Ali, 
             * Eva Perglerova, 
             * Steven Hornik, 
             * Serge Larouche, 
             * Javier Beiza,
             * Scott Webster,
             * Terray Sylvester,
             * Garrett Madison
             and Nepal Sherpa Guide team of 
             * Ang Phurba Sherpa, 
             * Danah Tamang,
             ? Nim Norbu Sherpa, 
             * Pemba Hapse Sherpa (rechk), 
             * Dorje 2 Sherpa (rechk), 
             * Sange Sherpa,
             * Lakpa Sherpa, 
             * Kam Dorchi Sherpa, 
             ? Dawa Sherpa, 
             * Tenzi Sherpa, 
             * Dorji 1 Sherpa (rechk), 
             * Mingmar Sherpa (rechk), 
             * Mingma Sherpa, 
             * Dawa Tenzie Sherpa (rechk), 
             * Tshering Bhote

  Summit team left C4 at 1 am. Straightforward climb. Madison stayed for about 2 hours on the summit. It was a very warm day. They descended to C4 where they arrived at about midday.



  Nuptse:

  C3  07/05  6800m

  Summit on 08/05 by Madison, Melesk, Draves, Ang Phurba, Dawa Tenji Lhakpa, Ming Dorje at 12:45 pm.

  Summit team left 12:30 am. The Sherpas had fixed to about 7600m the day before and during the climb the Sherpas fixed the rest of the summit. From the top of the ridge they went to the real summit individually (about 30m) for pics and descended again after about one hour. They abseiled down and descended to C2. On 09/05 returned to BC.

  Anna Ott joined the team, but turned back after about 1 hour as it was too much.


  Lhotse:

  SUMMIT on 25/05 at 8 am by Madison, Beiza, Horsman, Bulten, Ali, Ang Phurba, Dawa Tenji, Lhakpa.

  Lhotse summiters left Everest C4 at 1 am on 25/05. They descended to C4 Lhotse and continued to Lhotse. Summit at 8 am. Beautiful day and descended to C2.


  Pieter Swart death:

  Swart arrived at C4 as the first member of the team as he felt very good. On summit day, Swart decided to turn back shortly after starting as he felt unwell and preferred to rest for the descent. Swart waited until the team returned. He joined the Non Lhotse team and left C4 at 6 am to descend. He was very slow and when Madison heard on the radio that he was unwell, he waited at the Lhotse high camp for him. Swart was with Scott Webster, Terray Sylvester and Cacho Beiza. The 4 assisted Swart; however Swart was unable to walk at this point, so they began dragging him down; he passed away soon after at 7500m.

  On 26/05 five Sherpas went up and put him on a stretcher and dragged him down to C2 where he was picked up on 27/05.


  Team left BC on 28/05 by heli.

  Flown out from C2
    Peter Horsman
    Erwin Visser
    Danah Al Ali
    Serge Larouche
    Richard Draves
    Eva Perglerova


  Members no summit:

  Mark King reached C2 on 2nd rotation. Did not feel well. Was flown out of C2 and left early.

  Lask reached C2 on summit rotation. He felt sick and was flown out of C2.

  Mayer got bad infection during the rest period in Namche. He had reached C2.

  Smith reached C2 on first rotation and had blood clot and flew out of C1.

  Yoder (Lhotse member) he reached C2 and decided he did not want to carry on.

  Richard Draves turned back during Everest summit push after about 30 mins at about 7900m. He was in the tent with Swart and did not feel too good himself, so he turned back.

  Hernandez reached BC, but had HAPE.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C2 to top to C2 for all members, from C4 to top to C4 for Sherpas.


expid: EVER23107
peakid: EVER
year: 2023
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Kenton Cool
sponsor: Kenton Cool Everest Expedition 2023
approach: Pangboche, Lobuje, Everest BC
bcdate: 2023-04-28
smtdate: 2023-05-17
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2023-05-19
campsites: BC(28/04,5350m),C1(01/05,6000m),C2(02/05,6440m),C3(15/05,7100m),C4(16/06,7900m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Approach: Pangboche, Lobuje, Everest BC                                                   
  BC  28/04  5350m
  C1  01/05  6000m
  C2  02/05  6440m
  C3  15/05  7100m
  C4  16/05  7900m
  Smt 17/05  by Cool, Walker, Dorjee Gyalgen, Siddhi Ghising Tamang at 6 am.

  Left South Col at 9 pm. Straightforward climb. Spent about 10 min on the summit due to the cold. Descended to C4 where they arrived at noon. On 18/05 descent to C2, on 19/05 BC. Left BC: 19/05 by heli.

  Oxygen: Taken and used [by Cool] from C3 to top to C3; Walker from C2 to top to C2; Sherpas from C4 to top to C4.


expid: EVER23108
peakid: EVER
year: 2023
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Mike Hamill
sponsor: Climbing the Seven Summits (CTSS) Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2023
approach: Pangboche->Lobuje->Everest BC
bcdate: 2023-04-13
smtdate: 2023-05-17
smttime: 0230
termdate: 2023-05-20
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-231-05)
campsites: BC(13/04,5350m),C1(21/04,6000m),C2(21/04,6400m),C3(15/05,7200m),C4(16/05,7900m),Smt(17-18,23/05)
agency: TAGnepal Trekking
countries:
  Argentina, Australia, Brazil, Canada, Estonia, France, India, Ireland, Kuwait, Nepal, Norway, UK, Uruguay

routememo:
  Approach: Pangboche, Lobuje, Everest BC

  BC  13/04  5350m
  C1  21/04  6000m
  C2  27/04  6440m
  C3  15/05  7200m
  C4  16/05  7900m

  EVEREST Smt on 17/95 between 2:30 am and 10 am:

   1. Casey Grom, USA; Guide
   2. Olivier Thiriet, France
   3. Pemba Gyalji Sherpa, Juving, Nepal; Guide
   4. Enrique Claussen, Uruguay; Guide
   5. Ben Stern, USA
   6. Bruce McAdie, Canada
   7. Schuyler Evans, UK 
   8. Pasang Tendi Sherpa, Juving, Nepal; Guide 
   9. Roberto Terzini, Brazil
  10. Ashish Gurung, Sankhuwasabha, Nepal; Guide
  11. Kevin Cagney, USA
  12. Naren Shahi, Lamjung, Nepal; Guide
  13. Tylor Grist, USA
  14. Mark Postle, USA
  15. Vinayak Jay Malla, Myagdi, Nepal; Guide
  16. Abdulrazzaq Almojalhem, Kuwait
  17. Pemba Sherpa (Karli), Juving
  18. Nima Sherpa, Salung Junbeshi, Nepal
  19. Ang Babu Sherpa, Chatuk, Nepal
  20. Ang Chhiring Sherpa, Thame, Nepal
  21. Chiyang Jyabu Bhote, Sankhuwasabha, Nepal
  22. Dawa Furten Bhote, Sankhuwasabha, Nepal
  23. Rinchen Sherpa, Juving, Nepal
  24. Ngima Dorje Sherpa, Juving, Nepal
  25. Chheden Bhote, Sankhuwasabha, Nepal
  26. Nawang Chhiri Sherpa, Phortse, Nepal

  Summit team left C4 between 7 am and 9 am.

  Groom, Thiriet, Claussen, Stern, Evans and McAdie descended to C2, other summiteers back to C4 for the night. On 19/05 everyone back to BC.

  EVEREST summit on 18/05 between 3 am and 9 am:

  01. Ott Tinn, Estonia 
  02. Dorje Sherpa, Bhojpur, Nepal
  03. Namgyal Tamang, Pangboche, Nepal
  04. Dawa Sherpa, Sankhuwasabha, Nepal
  05. Sam Cairns, UK 
  06. Thunang Bhote, Sankhuwasabha, Nepal
  07. Dawa Yolmo, Sindhupalchok, Nepal
  08. Rajat Sharma, India 
  09. Pega Sherpa, Phortse, Nepal
  10. Lhakpa Sherpa, Chatuk, Nepal
  11. Travis Van Overbeke, USA 
  12. Tendi Sherpa, Dolakha, Nepal
  13. Dawa Phinjo Bhote, Sankhuwasabha, Nepal
  14. Ludivine Longchampt, France 
  15. Dawa Jangbu Sherpa, Sindhupalchok, Nepal
  16. Lisa Barge, UK
  17. Prakash Gurung, Tanahun, Nepal
  18. Pasang Bhote, Sankhuwasabha, Nepal

  Cairns and Tinn descended to C2. Everyone else to C4. On 20/05 everyone back to BC. 
  LHOTSE summit on 18/05 at 9 am:

  01. Damian Mannix, Australia 
  02. Mingma Dorje Sherpa, Phortse, Nepal
  03. Kevin Cagney, USA
  04. Ashish Gurung, Sankhuwasabha, Nepal
  05. Roberto Terzini, Brazil 
  06. Pasang Tendi Sherpa, Juving, Nepal

  After their Everest summit, Cagney, Terzini, Ashish Gurung and Pasang Tendi descended to C4, rested for a while and set out to Lhotse at 3 am. They descended Geneva spur, ascended to Lhotse C4 (no rest) and summited Lhotse. After summit, they descended to C2.

  Mannix and Mingma Dorje left Lhotse C4 at around 3 am. Spent 15 minutes on the summit and descended to C2.

  LHOTSE summit on 19/05 at 9 am:

  Travis Van Overbeke
  Tendi Sherpa (Dolakha)
  Ott Tinn
  Dorjee Sherpa

  After their Everest summit, team descended to C4, rested for a while and set out to Lhotse at 3 am. They descended Geneva spur, ascended to Lhotse C4 (no rest) and summited Lhotse. Von Overbeke and Tendi descended to BC; Tinn and Dorjee to C2.


  Members who did not summit:

  Cleary reached C2 during the first rotation. He left the expedition after this rotation.

  Beaudoin and Cuizio reached C2 during first rotation. They left the expedition after this rotation as they had the feeling they had achieved what they wanted to achieve.

  Jantzen got chest infection at C3 on summit push. Turned back due to sickness.

  Jen Willis reached the South Col. She was too slow and did not go further.

  Lawrence reached yellow band at 7600m. He had an upset stomach and descended. Tomas Ceppi was his personal guide and he turned back with him.

  Julie McKelvey is currently on the mountain hoping to summit on 23/05 [did summit on 23 May with Tendi Sherpa].

  Jan Alte Roehme reached 5600m during the first rotation. Did not have the strength and left expedition early.

  Rohan Freeman reached the Hillary Step and had problem with his oxygen. Turned back.

  Matt Brennan reached South Col. His Sherpa Kami started to have problems with his liver. His liver was inflamed. Brennan turned back with him. He was helivacked from C2. Brennan also flew out from C2.

  Martin Benning reached C2 during the first rotation. He did not feel well and left expedition early.

  Justin Craven had pulmonary embolism at BC and was flown out. He had previously reached C2.

  Tracey Faber reached C1 and had pulmonary oedema. She was flown out from BC to Kathmandu. Returned to Namche, trekked to Pheriche and got sick again.

  Neil Fletcher (Lhotse) reached half way through the icefall. Fell sick with cough and left the expedition early.

  Kirstie Ennis (above the knee amputee) reached to below the south summit. She was too slow and decided to turn back.

  Douglas Gowler was filming Ennis and reached C2. Did not continue due to chest infection.


  Flown out from Camp 2:
    Mat Brennan for psychological reasons.
    Tom Lawrence for diarrhea.
    Lisa Barge for bit of snow-blindness and frostbite on one finger.
    Olivier Thiriet flew out for no reason.

  Frostbite:
    Lisa Barge on two fingers.
    Abdulrazzaq Almojalhem on one finger.
    Sharma on one finger.

  Other injuries:
    Cagney got hit in the face by a rock just below the summit on his descent.
    He was evacuated from C2 and flown to CIWEC for stitches.

  Oxygen:
    Cairns, Barge, Thiriet, Lawrence, McKelvey, Brennan, Ennis from C2 to
      summit or high point and back to C2.
    Other members and Sherpas from C3 to summit to C3.


expid: EVER23109
peakid: EVER
year: 2023
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Lukas Furtenbach
sponsor: Furtenbach Adventures Everest Expedition 2023
countries: Afghanistan, Canada, Germany, Ireland, Pakistan, UK, USA
approach: Pangboche->Lobuje->Everest BC
bcdate: 2023-04-20
smtdate: 2023-05-17
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2023-05-20
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-231-06)
campsites: BC(20/04,5350m),C1(28/04,6000m),C2(29/04,6440m),C3(15/05,7100m),C4(16/05,7900m),Smt(17,23/05)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  Approach: Pangboche, Lobuje

  Everest Classic Expedition:

  BC  20/04  5350m
  C1  28/04  6000m
  C2  29/04  6440m
  C3  15/05  7100m
  C4  16/05  7900m
  Smt 17/05  by Mansoor, Ward, Jolin, Watson, Fairbank and 7 Sherpas 
             between 11 and 12 noon.

  Everest Flash Expedition:

  BC  03/05  5350m
  C1  13/05  6000m
  C2  14/05  6440m
  C3  15/05  7100m
  C4  16/05  7900m
  Smt 17/05  by Bannister, Csato, Chen, Hauer, Wolf, Sidiqi (1st Afghan) and 10 
             Sherpas between 11 and 12 noon.

  Team left C4 at 2 am. Straightforward climb. They stayed one hour on the summit and descended to C2 where they arrived between 7 pm and 10 pm.

  Farmanfarmaian went up later as he had gone back to the UK in between rotations. He is intending to summit on 23/05 [he did summit on 23/05].

  On 18/05 all back to BC. Left BC on 19/05 and 20/05.

  Mader reached BC after having climbed Mera Peak. She fell ill and left BC on 08/05.


  Lhotse Flash Expedition:

  BC  03/05  5350m
  C1  13/05  5800m
  C2  14/05  6440m
  C3  15/05  7100m
  C4  16/05  7700m
  Smt 17/05  by Furtenbach, Grumberg, Backes, Kunga, Lhakpa and Pemba Rinji 
             at 4:45 am.

  Team left C4 at 11:30 pm on 16/05. Couloir was dry and a bit of rockfall. They spent about 30 mins on summit and descended to C2 where they arrived at 4 pm.

  Jacoma and Bionda wanted to summit without O2. Bionda reached about 7300m on 16/05 and turned back due to cold and exhaustion. Jacoma reached 7600m on 16/05 and turned back due to exhaustion and cold.

  Bannister, Chen, Hauer and Jolin had a Lhotse permit, but did not attempt it as they did not have the motivation anymore.

  Sherpas above BC: 24

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used C2 to top to C2 by all members.
    Taken and used from 7000m to top to C2 by Hauer and Wolf.
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Sherpas.


expid: EVER23114
peakid: EVER
year: 2023
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Baker Perry
sponsor: National Geographic Weather Station Maintenance Expedition 2023
countries: Nepal
bcdate: 2023-04-17
smtdate: 2023-05-15
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2023-05-28
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4(14/05,7950m),Smt(15/05)
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  From the Himalayan Times - 15 May 2023

  A team of climbers today carried out essential maintenance on the world's highest weather station at Bishop Rock (8810m) when they stood atop Mt Everest this morning.

  The team led by Tenzing Gaylzen Sherpa along with Ngawang Tenjing Sherpa, Pasang Sona Sherpa and Ila Norbu Sherpa successfully carried out essential maintenance of the world's highest weather station, Ghimire said.

  Climate scientist Baker and renowned IFMGA guide Dawa Yangzum Sherpa instructed the team from South Col, he added.

  Likewise, Phutashi Sherpa and Kanchha Nuru Sherpa have been bringing down the old station which remained dysfunctional at Balcony area.


expid: EVER23115
peakid: EVER
year: 2023
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Romania
leaders: Anca Racatean
sponsor: 8K International Everest Expedition 2023
countries: China, France, India, Malaysia, S Korea, Singapore, Thailand, UK, USA
smtdate: 2023-05-17
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(17-18,22/05)
agency: 8K Expeditions
routememo:
  Report from Orianne Aymard:

  Approach: Pangboche, Lobuje, Everest BC

  BC  20/04  5350m
  C1  25/04  6000m
  C2  26/04  6440m
  C3  14/05  7100m
  C4  15/05  7900m
  Smt 17/05  by Aymard and Dawa at 6:45 am.

  On 27/04, AD Dawa Sherpa and Aymard touched the lower C3 for acclimatization purposes. On 28/04, they descended to BC. In the middle of the icefall, there was a huge noise and Aymard crouched down to protect herself. She was hit in her left cheek by a serac. When she realised what happened, Dawa was looking for her and got her up as he was worried that more seracs would come down. They descended to BC and she was evacuated to Lukla, where she went to hospital and on 29/04 she came to CIWEC where she had scans on her cheek. Nothing was broken but she had a big hematoma. She stayed for three nights at the hospital and then moved to hotel.

  She flew back to BC on 07/05. On 11/05 Dawa and Aymard ascended to C2, where they stayed for two nights. On 14/05, they ascended to C3 and 15/05 to C4. They spent two nights at C4 and left at 7 pm on 16/05.

  They spent about five minutes on the summit and descended to C4 where they spent another night. The route was very crowded.

  On 18/05, the started their descent to C2 and at the end of the Yellow Band, she had to down-climb a wall and she fell and hit the ground with her left foot. She told Dawa that she was in a lot pain. She was just passing the dead body of Phurba Sherpa and Dawa Sherpa did not wait for her. She met Nima Sherpa of 8K who helped her down to C3 where she saw Dawa. She radioed Lhakpa, the owner of 8K who told her that rescue was not possible from C3 and that she had to go down to C2. However, she was very exhausted, but descended to C2 with Dawa where they arrived at 10:30 pm. When she removed her boot she saw that the foot was swollen and blue and that she had frostbite on three fingers.

  On 19/05 she was evacuated by helicopter from C2 to Kathmandu where she was admitted to the CIWEC clinic. She will stay at the clinic until 22/05 and then go to back to France.

  Accidents: Fall on Yellow Band

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C4 by Aymard; from C4 to top to C3 by Sherpa.


expid: EVER23117
peakid: EVER
year: 2023
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Valentyn Sypavin
sponsor: Alpomania Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2023
countries: Moldova
approach: Pangboche->Lobuje->Everest BC
bcdate: 2023-04-23
smtdate: 2023-05-19
smttime: 0850
termdate: 2023-05-22
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-231-08)
campsites: BC(23/04,5350m),C1(29/04,6000m),C2(30/04,6440m),C3(17/05,7100m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(19/05)
agency: 8K Expeditions
routememo:
  Approach: Pangboche, Lobuje, Everest BC

  BC  23/04  5350m
  C1  29/04  6000m
  C2  30/04  6440m
  C3  17/05  7100m
  C4  18/05  7900m
  Smt 19/05  by Sypavin and Nima Sherpa at 9:20 am, Aslanova and Guru at 12 noon, Samsonenko and Sonam at 10:50 am, Zotea and Lhakpa Ongchu at 8:50 am.

  The whole team left C4 at 10 pm. Straightforward climb. After summit they descended to C4, where they spent the night. On 20/05 Samsonenkyo and Sonam descended to BC. Aslanova and Guru to C2.

  Sypavin, Nima, Zotea and Lhakpa Ongchu continued to Lhotse. The left Everest C4 at 1:30 am. They deposited some gear at Lhotse C4 and summited at:

  Lhotse  20/05  by Sypavin, Nima, Zotea and Lhakpa Ongchu at 8:20 am.

  Weather was good and clear. Couloir was dry and good condition. On their descent, they stopped at Lhotse C4 at about 10 am and continued to BC where they arrived at 8:30 pm.

  Members who did not summit.

  Filatova and Logvynenko reached 8500m (below Balcony), but both lost their motivation and were not prepared to continue mentally.

  Tarasenko reached below South Summit at 8700m. During the change of the bottle, his oxygen mask was blown away and he and his Sherpa decided to go down.

  Heli from C2:
    Filatova, Logvynenko and Tarasenko, who had some heart problems, 
    took heli from C2.

  Team left BC on 20/05 and 22/05

  Sherpas above BC: 9

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Sypavin, Samsonenko, Zotea
    Taken and used from C2 to high point to C2 by Filatova, Aslanova
    Taken and used from 6900m to hight point to C2 by Tarasenko.


expid: EVER23118
peakid: EVER
year: 2023
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Mongolia
leaders: Zolbookhuu Ombo
sponsor: Mongolian Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2023
smtdate: 2023-05-17
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-231-09)
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(17-18/05)
agency: 8K Expeditions
routememo:
  From 8K Expeditions website:

  Huge congratulations to the Mongolian Team for their 100% successful Mt. Everest & Lhotse summit!

  We are thrilled to announce that the Mongolian team has conquered the mighty Mount Everest, defying the extreme weather conditions that relentlessly tested their endurance and with the guidance of our exceptionally qualified 8K mountain guides, they overcame every challenge with grace and resilience. We applaud their unwavering determination and commend their remarkable achievement!

  Mt. Everest Summiteers Name List:
  1. ZOLBOOKHUU OMBO (17th May 2023)
  2. GANKHUU SAINBAYAR (18th May 2023)
  3. GERELT-OD TSERENDULAM (18th May 2023)
  4. ANKHBAYAR TSOGTBAYAR (18th May 2023)
  5. PASDAWA SHERPA (17th May 2023)
  6. ANG TEMBA SHERPA (18th May 2023)
  7. KARMA GYALJE SHERPA (18th May 2023)
  8. PASANG GYALGEN SHERPA (18th May 2023)

  Lhotse Summiteers Name List:
  1. BAYARSAIKHAN LKHASUREN (18th May 2023)
  2. ZOLZAYA BAST (18th May 2023)
  3. BATKHISHIG BALDORJ (18th May 2023)
  4. AMARTOGTOKH DORJSUREN (18th May 2023)
  5. PEMBA WONGCHU SHERPA (18th May 2023)
  6. MINGMA DORCHI SHERPA (18th May 2023)
  7. ASHOK LAMA (18th May 2023)
  8. PHURBA GYALJEN SHERPA (18th May 2023)

  This a proud moment for us and all of the people of Mongolia for 100% success summit news!


expid: EVER23119
peakid: EVER
year: 2023
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Victor Volodine
sponsor: Russian 8000 Club Everest Expedition 2023
smtdate: 2023-05-19
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(19/05)
agency: 8K Expeditions
routememo:
  From 8K Expeditions website:

  Huge Congratulations to the entire team of 8000 Club on their monumental achievement of successfully summiting Everest with 8K Expeditions!

  Date: 19th May 2023
  Today, you have etched your names in the annals of mountaineering history. Scaling the highest peak on Earth is no small feat, and your determination, resilience, and unwavering spirit have brought all of you to the pinnacle of success. A heartfelt thank you to all our 8K Expeditions professional climbing Sherpas and entire base camp team for their invaluable guidance and unwavering support on this incredible journey.

  Mt. Everest Summiteers List:
  1.  Mr. VICTOR VOLODIN
  2.  Mr. DMITRII KURLYKOV
  3.  Ms. SVETLANA KOTLIAR
  4.  Mr. ANDREI MURAVEV
  5.  Mr. ANATOLII KABANOV
  6.  Mr. PASANG SHERPA
  7.  Mr. URGEN SHERPA
  8.  Mr. DORJE SHERPA
  9.  Mr. PASANG TENJING SHERPA
  10. Mr. ANG THINDU SHERPA

  All the team members are descending with their guides & we wish them a safe and successful descent.


expid: EVER23120
peakid: EVER
year: 2023
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Alex Abramov
sponsor: Seven Summits Club Everest Expedition 2023
countries: Israel, Latvia
bcdate: 2023-04-23
smtdate: 2023-05-18
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2023-05-22
campsites: BC(23/04),C1(25/04),C2(26/04),C3(16/05),C4(17/05),Smt(18,21/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Approach: Standard

  BC  23/04
  C1  25/04
  C2  26/04
  C3  16/05
  C4  17/05
  Smt 18/05 & 21/05

  18 May Summiters:

  Members left C4 at 10 pm on 17 May and summited between 8 am and 10 am and back to C4 between 2 pm and 4 pm. Continued descending C3 and slept there. Next day 19 May to C2 and the following day to BC by heli except Poliakov.

  21 May Summiters:

  Pugovkin around 6 am; he had to wait for his co climber for an hour. He did not use oxygen. He used drone to record the ski down.

  Lazo around 7 am;  skied down from  he line reached C2 at 7 pm, slept there and evacuated on 22 May to Kathmandu and admitted to hospital due to brain edema. Leaving Kathmandu on 25 May.

  Other high points:
    Aloskins on 17 May
    Golov on 17 May, frozen eyes, visually impaired.

  Accidents: all members got sick; cough, respiration difficulty due to virus and bacteria in the whole BC area. Lazo suffered from brain edema.

  Left BC on 20 May except two skiers.

  Sherpa above BC: 16

  Oxygen use at the time of summit push from C2 by all members and Sherpas from C3. The two skiers did not use oxygen.

  Record: Ski down



  From Abramov website:

  Skiing from the top of Everest!

  On May 21, 2023, an unprecedented event for Russian mountaineering took place: "Snow Leopard", high-altitude climber Vitaly Lazo became the first Russian to use skis to descend from the highest point of the planet. He started from a height of 8845 meters, which is only three meters below the top.

  The ascent, organized by the "7 Summits Club" was made by Vitaliy together with the
  "Snow Leopard" Anton Pugovkin, a comrade in the Death Zone Freeride project. Everest became the team's fifth 8-thousander.

  The team climbed the summit with a special mission, which you can learn about by
  watching the documentary "Oxygen 2. Everest" which has been filmed for over the past three months in partnership with "Gazprom-Media Holding" and its companies: "Central Partnership" and "Red Media".

  On the descent, Vitaly Lazo asked for medical assistance, he was evacuated to a hospital in Kathmandu. Anton Pugovkin is feeling well.


expid: EVER23121
peakid: EVER
year: 2023
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Denmark
leaders: Marco Evaristi Sarovic
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks (SST) Everest Expedition 2023 Team 1
smtdate: 2023-05-17
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(17-19,22-23/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
countries:
  Canada, China, Costa Rica, Czech Republic, Estonia, Hungary, Iran, Kuwait, Mexico, Singapore, UK, USA

routememo:
  Report from Jakob Urth:

  Approach: Trekking via Chhukung, Lobuche East

  BC  19/04
  C1  05/05
  C2  06/05
  C3  21/05
  C4  22/05
  Smt 23/05  by Urth, Ostergaard, Anish Tamang, Dawa Temba Sherpa

  Team wanted to start from C4 at 8 pm on 22/05 but it was snowing. Did not start until 10:30 pm. It was windy and spindrift and some snowfall. Emma with her Sherpa reached the summit at 10:45 am, Jakob with Sherpa 20 minutes later. On the summit a bit of wind, cloudy. After summit back to C4 at 1:30 pm, took some rest there and down to C2 at 11 pm. Next day back to BC. Left BC on 25/05.

  They were supposed to summit with three Sherpas, but Dawa Finjock Sherpa developed pulmonary edema during the climb and had to be flown to KTM. He fully recovered in hospital after 3-4 days and joined the team again. On summit push he turned back at 8100m because his mask was malfunctioning and abandoned climb.

  Members:
    Jakob Urth (S)
    Emma Ostergaard (S)

  Hired: 
    Dawa Finjock Sherpa (HP: 8100m)
    Anish Tamang (S)
    Dawa Temba Sherpa (S)

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used by members and Sherpas from just before C3 to summit to C3.

  Records: Ostergaard youngest woman from Denmark to summit Everest.

  Other peaks: Lobuche East


expid: EVER23122
peakid: EVER
year: 2023
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Iran
leaders: Samad Babazadeh Anari
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks (SST) Everest Expedition 2023 Team 2
smtdate: 2023-05-16
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(16-19,23,27/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
countries:
  Australia, Canada, Cyprus, Denmark, India, Iran, Israel, Kazakhstan, Kenya, Pakistan, Russia, Slovenia, Ukraine, UK, USA


expid: EVER23123
peakid: EVER
year: 2023
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Arnold Coster
sponsor: Arnold Coster Everest Expedition 2023
countries: Belgium, Brazil, USA
approach: Pangboche->Lobuje->Everest BC
bcdate: 2023-04-18
smtdate: 2023-05-15
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2023-05-24
campsites: BC(18/04,5350m),C1(01/05,6000m),C2(02/05,6440m),C3(05/05,7100m),C4(14/05,7900m),Smt(15/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Approach:  Pangboche, Lobuje, Everest BC

  BC  18/04  5350m
  C1  01/05  6000m
  C2  02/05  6440m
  C3  05/05  7100m only John Kedrowski
  C4  14/05  7900m
  Smt 15/05  by Berinckz, Pemba Tashi at 9:30 am.
  Smt 22/05  by Pereira, Tarso, Dawa Sangay, Chenchen Lama at 9 am.

  15/05 team left C4 at 8 pm. Spent about 15 mins on summit and descended to C2.

  22/05 summit team left at 7:30 pm. Tarso ran out of oxygen at the South Summmit. Bernardo and Chenchen were already at the Balcony. Chenchen climbed back up and helped him down and gave him oxygen. He had passed out on the South Summit. They arrived at C4 at 4 pm and then left C4 at 11 pm and descended to C3, where they arrived at 3 am on 23/05. Torso was fatigued and on the way to C2 on 23/05 he was coughing blood. He was helivaced from C2.

  No Summits:

  Murray reached about 8600m on 17/05. He did not feel comfortable with all the crowds and decided to quit.

  Coster went to C2. He never intended to climb as he is the expedition leader.

  Kedrowski intended to climb without O2. On 21/05 he attempted to reach C3, but had a bad cough and turned back at 6300m. His highest point was South Col on the acclimatization rotation.

  Roeland reached 7800m during acclimatization (he was trying without O2) on 18/05. After that rotation he felt so bad and left the expedition with a chest infection.

  Lhotse nobody summited Lhotse even though they were on the permit. They were all too tired.

  Team left BC on 24/05 by heli.

  Sherpas above BC: 6

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C3 to top or high point to C3 by everyone apart from
    Kedrowski and Roeland.


expid: EVER23124
peakid: EVER
year: 2023
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Norway
leaders: Kristin Harila
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks (SST) Everest-Lhotse Exp 2023 (Kristin Harila)
smtdate: 2023-05-23
smttime: 0845
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-231-12)
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(23/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Everest and Lhotse done!

  Kristin set new records this weekend by summiting Everest (yesterday 8:45 am) and Lhotse (5:50 pm) in 8 hours and 35 minutes, beating her own record from last year as the fastest female to traverse Everest-Lhotse.

  She spent a total of 28 hours climbing from C4 to Everest, Lhotse and descending to base camp.

  "It was a struggle. The weather got worse, but it was no turning back. I am tired, but very happy", Kristin says after descending safely to base camp Everest.

  She has now climbed five 8000ers in just 24 days, a new record! She and her team from 8k Expeditons are soon heading for Makalu, to complete the first phase of Bremont14Peaks.

  --------

  The story from Everest and Lhotse, 8848m and 8516m, May 23rd 2023.

  It's always nice to come back to Everest and the big circus that is the Everest BC, it's a totally other game, so many climbers and so many people!

  We started up Khumbu icefall from 2 am, we actually had a really nice climb up with @jake_climber and Lama It took us 6h up to C2. We were in good shape and decided to leave directly to C4 the next night.

  After an 8h climb, we arrived in C4. I had put on oxygen from C3. It's most normal to sleep in C3 but we decided to skip that since we wanted to try for the summit as soon as possible.

  We had the whole day to rest at C4 and at 9:30pm Lama and me started to climb up to the summit. There is not so many people that early, so we were out before the queue and the people.

  We had nice pace up and reached the summit after 5:30h, it's my fastest climb up Everest ever! On the summit it was totally dark, super cold and windy.

  After taking some pictures, we went down to C4 in less than 2h where we took a short short break with water and snacks before started climbing up Lhotse.

  In Lhotse couloir there is more snow than Everest and not so many people. While climbing we had a problem with one oxygen bottle, so we weren't able to use it. In the last 50 mins of the climb up, Lama was without oxygen but we took it slow and he was in good shape.

  After 7:45h, we reached the Lhotse summit, where we had a beautiful view. So we took some pictures and started climb down fast because we had no more oxygen and a long climb down. We took a short break in C2 before going all the way down.

  Tenjin Sherpa was a super hero (again) and made us move so fast. Which is very important in this kind of project, he is really an amazing amazing sherpa.

  It was super nice to be back down in Everest ABC where 14 Peaks Expedition had a super nice base camp. Thank you Seven Summit Treks for getting me such a luxury tent.

  I'm super happy to have done Everest and Lhotse for the third time and in the same day again! And super happy to be back in KTM with Jens, and taking some days rest before the next climb.


expid: EVER23125
peakid: EVER
year: 2023
route1: W Ridge-Hornbein Couloir
nation: Spain
leaders: Kilian Jornet
sponsor: Kilian Jornet Everest W Ridge Expedition
countries: France
approach: Namche->Pheriche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2023-05-15
smtdate: 2023-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 8200m due to cracked rib from falling
campsites: BC(15/05,5350m),C2(07/05,6300m),xxx(25/05,8200m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Approach: EBC trail

  BC  15/05  5350m
  C2  07/05  6400m
  HPt 22/05  8200m (Hornbein Couloir) by Kilian Jornet

  Details:

  • Acclimatization:

  Jornet first came with his family to enjoy Khumbu for 3 weeks. Thus he had a very few stays at the BC (4 nights only). He first stayed with family in Namche Bazar, reached on 22 April; later they would go up as high as Pheriche. During this period, Jornet had a first round trip to C2 from Namche, on 25 April.

  When his family left, from the 12 May, the team would first stay between Pheriche and the BC. This knowing that after his first night at C2 (on 7 May) he knew that there was a collective throat infection occurring in the high camps, thus the team chose to stay quietly between Namche and Pheriche for a while, far from the contamination.

  On May 14, Jornet spent a second night at C2, coming from Pheriche. On the day after, he went up as high as the Geneva Spur (circa 7800m), then back down to Pheriche still on the same day.

  • Summit push:

  The intended (coveted) project was to achieve the first oxygen-less traverse of Everest via its West Ridge & Hornbein Couloir combination; then down via the SE Ridge normal route to the South Col; then traversing via the ledges of the Urubko variant to the normal route of Lhotse.

  On 20 May, Kilian and Bertrand went from BC to C2.

  On the 21 May, Kilian left C2 at 17h. Bertrand would follow him for a 100m above the camp to film his departure. Above in the facet giving access to the West Ridge, Kilian chose to climb a direct couloir option avoiding the longer traverse to the left used by the Americans in 1963. Sadly, the couloir was to be found in blue ice covered with a 20cms snow layer; facing such conditions, once he would made one step trough the snow, he would slide two steps downwards... All-in-all, it took him 10h instead of the planned 4h to touch the West Ridge, reached at circa 7400m and night time (circa 3 am).

  On 22 May in the morning, once he had reached the West Ridge, if conditions of the latter would prove to be perfect (hard snow), yet Jornet would have to face an unexpected 40/50 km/h north wind, not predicted by the weather forecast. In consequence, he would need to hide from it twice on the Nepali side of the West Ridge, in a first 2h pause, then further away in a 1h pause. During these, he could enjoy some 30m micro-siesta to rest a bit. The route section itself would happen to be very scenic, with its aesthetic snowy ridge and views towards both normal routes’ crowds going up.

  After reaching the small plateau located at circa 7520m afoot of the actual technical section start of the West Ridge (where most past expeditions had put their camp), Jornet started to traverse leftwards first via first a few rock buttresses to scramble, then long snowy slopes leading to the entrance of the Hornbein Couloir’s entrance (8040m), the latter reached at circa 15h/16h.

  From there, he started to ascend the couloir first trough its narrow entrance (not larger than 5m), then its not very steep slope (40° in average, with a few short buttresses at 45°), this until the couloir got broader at 8200m. If snow conditions proved to be still good, yet some kind of unconsolidated short snow patches, different from windslabs, would need to be crossed here and there, not being avoidable. Jornet thinking afterwards the recent north wind might have formed these. At about 16h30/17h, on one of these traps at 8200m he fell down on 50m.

  What to do, continuing or not? Jornet was physically well, felt very well acclimatized with great mental dispositions, and conditions were rather still good. Yet, the fall had shocked him enough for eventually renouncing. Moreover, he could feel some slight pain on his chest; possibly minored by the natural tension of the action, he first thought him to have just partially cracked a rib, but on the day after, the pain would be much more sensitive. Jornet eventually sent a short SMS to Bertrand Delapierre: ”Avalanche/(Feeling) OK/I go down”.

  The descent would prove laborious. Not long after he had started back down, it started to snow; with no more visibility (2m) and his ascent tracks erased, he would need to orientate most of the time with his GPS to avoid descending on the Tibet side. Then back to his 45/50° steep couloir of access to the West Ridge, knowing the latter poor aforementioned conditions, he would need to down climb carefully, eventually reaching C2 at 11 pm.

  On 23 May, the duet went back down to BC. From there, it got picked up by the helicopter back to Kathmandu.

  Practices witnessed on the normal route left both members astonished, with notably numerous helicopters flying around high camps for doing the taxi for inexperienced clients.

  Jornet might come back to try again that traverse, since he found the West Ridge itself to be a very quiet and aesthetic option within a reasonable AD/AD+ alpine grade range. Yet there are also numerous other projects on his list, including more exploration-orientated ones.

  Members:
    Kilian Jornet, HPt at 8200m.
    Bertrand Delapierre, film-maker. HPt as high as a 100m above C2, circa 6500m.
    Julien Raison, who was part of the team also as a second film-maker
      (He didn’t climb above BC).

  Fixed rope: EVER fixing team (to C2).

  Climb abandoned on 22/05 at circa 4:30-5 pm due to fall/slide.

  Sherpas above BC: 0

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

  Route: West Ridge/Hornbein Couloir from C2 of the Nepali normal route.

  Records: Intended an alpine-style solo attempt of the Everest-Lhotse traverse.

  Accidents: 50m fall/slide at 8200m, one rib broken.


expid: EVER23127
peakid: EVER
year: 2023
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Nirmal Purja
sponsor: Elite Exped Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2023
smtdate: 2023-05-16
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(16-17,19,21-23/05)
agency: Elite Exped
countries:
  Andorra, Australia, Brazil, Canada, France, India, Iran, Lithuania, Poland, Qatar, Romania, S Africa, Taiwan, USA

routememo:
  Report from Anamaria-Delia Bozga

  BC  14/04  5350m
  C1  05/05  5800m (took about 7 hrs through the icefall)
  C2  06/05  6440m
  C3  19/05  7300m
  C4  20/05  7950m
  Smt 21/05  by Bozga and Lakpa Tenjen at 10:3 0am (there were six other people 
             on the summit)

  From 09/05 to 12/05 Bozga stayed in Namche where she took the heli to. On 12/05, she returned to BC by helicopter.

  On 16/05 they started their summit push and went directly to C2. It took them about 12 hours. They stayed at C2 until 18/05 as there were not enough Sherpas for the whole team and were forced to wait. They were told that the weather was not good, but as it turned out it was due to a lack of Sherpas.

  Lakpa and Bozga started from C4 at 11 pm, the rest of the Elite Expedition group started at around 10 pm. Bozga had a problem with her oxygen mask. Lakpa tried to get another mask, but that did not work either and then he ended up giving her his mask and found another oxygen system for him. On the ascent, they were on their own as they had started quite late. It was very cold and windy. When they reached the summit, there were about six other people there, but left shortly after Bozga and Lakpa arrived. Bozga did her splits on the summit where they stayed for about 20 minutes. When they were just about the Hillary Step, Lakpa lost Bozga’s mobile phone which had all the photos. Lakpa had not taken a camera. The photos provided were taken by someone else, which were given to Bozga later.

  They descended to C4, took a rest and continued to C2 where they arrived at 9 pm. On 22/05 they descended to BC by foot.

  During the conversation, Bozga told me that she had found out later that Green Boots was lying on the North side. The dead body she came across was just above the Hillary Step.

  She was not intending to climb Everest as she went to Nepal to climb Lobuje East. However, one of the members of Elite Expeditions’ team fell sick and she took her place. She had already bought a downsuit and found her 8000m boots in Namche Bazaar.

  Bozga left BC on 23/05 by heli.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Bozga and Lakpa Tenjen.


expid: EVER23132
peakid: EVER
year: 2023
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Michael King
sponsor: Himalayan Ascent Everest Expedition 2023
countries: Australia, Brazil, Cuba, Ireland, S Africa
bcdate: 2023-04-24
smtdate: 2023-05-15
campsites: BC(24/04,5350m),C1(29/04),C2(02/05),C3(),C4(14/05,7950m),Smt(15,17/05)
agency: Himalayan Ascent
routememo:
  From Vsevolod Gorlach:

  On summit push, climbers left C4 at 9 pm on 14/05. Relatively colder than usual and windy conditions all through the summit push. Significantly delayed on the the way to the Balcony by a large Chinese group climbing very slowly. Extremely cold and windy on the summit, 60km/h+ resulted in frostbite on two fingers (index and middle finger right hand frostbitten and tips later removed). Left expedition of 17/05 from higher camp.


expid: EVER23136
peakid: EVER
year: 2023
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Ryan Waters
sponsor: Mountain Professionals Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2023
countries: Canada
bcdate: 2023-04-15
smtdate: 2023-05-22
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2023-05-26
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-231-17)
campsites: BC(15/04,5350m),C1(27/04,6000m),C2(28/04,6400m),C3(30/04,7400m),C4(21/05,7900m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Himalayan Trailblazer
routememo:
  Summit team left C4 on 22 May at 2 am, summited at 3 pm, stayed 10 minutes, then returnd to C3.

  Lonnie Bedwell is a blind Veteran climber.

  Left BC on 26 My by heli.

  Lhotse summit same day 10:30 am by Tashi Riten Sherpa and Katrina Follows (UK).


expid: EVER23137
peakid: EVER
year: 2023
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Vietnam
leaders: Thanh Nhien Phan
sponsor: Expedition Himalaya Everest Expedition 2023
countries: Canada, Colombia, Japan, Kuwait, Latvia, Moldova, Switzerland, USA
smtdate: 2023-05-15
smttime: 1200
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(15,17/05)
agency: Expedition Himalaya
routememo:
  Report from Mateo Isaza:

  Approach: Pangboche

  BC  13/04  5350m
  C1  19/04  6000m
  C2  21/04  6440m
  C3  04/05  7100m
  C4  14/05  7900m
  Smt 15/05  by Isaza at 12 noon.

  On second rotation, Isaza climbed as high as the Geneva Spur at 7400m on 05/05. He spent another night at C2 and then back to BC on 06/05.

  For summit push, Isaza left BC on 11/05 and went to C2, where he spent two nights. 

  Started from C4 at 8 pm but managed to catch up with the people who left at 6 pm. “They were incredibly slow,” he said. Until the Balcony it was very congested, however, many people turned back on the Balcony as it was very windy.

  When he reached the summit there was a couple who remained for another few minutes and then descended. He spent a few minutes on the summit, took a video and started his descent.

  He found Phurba Sherpa, who later died, who was having problems at on the Hillary Step. His hands were frozen. Isaza found an oxygen bottle which was not empty and changed it for Phurba. Isaza spent about two hours with Phurba and rappelled down with him, however, it was very difficult. Just below the South Summit, he had to leave him as he was too exhausted. It was about 2 pm and he thinks that Phurba probably died shortly afterwards.

  He continued to C4 where he arrived at 5 pm. On 16/05, he descended to C2. It was very windy. He wanted to go all the way to BC, but it took him a long time to get down the Yellow Band as there were too many people going up that day.

  On 17/05 he stayed another night at C2 as he was waiting for the other team members. He found out that the Moldovan man had died, which upset him very much.

  Back to BC 18/05.

  Isaza did not use any pre-pitched tents. He carried all his own gear and pitched his own tents.

  Left BC on 21/05 by helicopter due to upset stomach.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used

  Sherpa above BC: None


expid: EVER23142
peakid: EVER
year: 2023
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Lhakpa Sonam Sherpa
sponsor: Thamserku 7 Summit Challenge
smtdate: 2023-05-17
smttime: 0730
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(17/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  From Thamserku FB page:

  It is with great pleasure that we announce that our chairman Mr. Lhakpa Sonam Sherpa, has summited Mt. Everest to complete his seven summit today May 17, 2023 at 7:30 am and is returning back to base camp.
   
  What an inspiration to us all. We have always looked up upon you and you have always inspired us to be aim high in life. Congratulation on your successful summit of Mt. Everest and completing your seven summit challenge today at 7:30. We eagerly await you to return back to Kathmandu to celebrate this feat together.


expid: EVER23143
peakid: EVER
year: 2023
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiroyuki Kuraoka
sponsor: Mountain Experience Hiro Everest Expedition 2023
approach: Namche->Khumjung->Deboche->Dingboche->Lobuche
bcdate: 2023-04-18
smtdate: 2023-05-18
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2023-05-21
campsites: BC(18/04,5350m),C1(05/05,6050m),C2(06/05,6500m),C3(16/05,7150m),C4(17/05,7950m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  Team left C4 to 20:45 on 17 May, summited at 7:30 am on 18 May, stayed 10 minutes, then descended to C2 at 23:30. Cold, little windy.

  Team left BC on 21 May by heli.


expid: EVER23145
peakid: EVER
year: 2023
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Andreas Neuschmid
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Everest Expedition 2023
countries: France, Switzerland
approach: Pangboche->Lobuje->Everest BC
bcdate: 2023-04-20
smtdate: 2023-05-18
termdate: 2023-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 8500m due to coldness
campsites: BC(20/04,5350m),C1(26/04,6000m),C2(27/04,6440m),C3(16/05,7100m),C4(17/05.7900m),xxx(18/05,8500m)
agency: Himalaya Vision (Glacier Himalaya pmt)
routememo:
  Approach: Pangboche, Lobuje

  BC  20/04  5350m
  C1  26/04  6000m
  C2  27/04  6440m
  C3  16/05  7100m
  C4  17/05  7900m
  HPt 18/05  8500m by Neuschmid, Tournemine, Lhakpa Nuru and Lale Tamang.

  HP team left C4 at 8 pm on 17/05. When they reached 8500m at 3 am, they decided to turn back due to cold. They returned to C4, rested and descended to C2 on 18/05.

  Pilgrim stayed at C4. He did not feel strong enough to continue.

  Everyone back at BC on 19/05. Left BC on 20/05 by heli.

  Sherpas above BC: 3

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to high point to C3 by everyone.


