# exped

expid: EVER12103
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Krishna Bahadur K.C.
sponsor: Lumbini to Mt. Everest Youth Leaders Peace Expedition 2012
approach: Lukla->Namche->Chhukung->Island Peak->Lobuvhe->Everest BC
bcdate: 2012-04-17
smtdate: 2012-05-26
smttime: 0300
termdate: 2012-05-28
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak by all members on 13 April
campsites: BC(17/04,5370m),C1(29/04,5900m),C2(30/04,6500m),C3(24/05,7200m),C4(25/05,8000m),Smt(26/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Peace Everest Exp. Spring 2012:
  Sanjay Pandit with Pasang Namgyal Sherpa - Arrived Camp 2 for Summit push.

  LUMBUNI TO MT. EVEREST YOUTH LEADERS PEACE EXPEDITION 2012: 

  The following Members and High Altitude climbing Sherpas arrived Camp 2 for summit push.

  Mr. Krishna Bahadur K.C. - Leader 
  Mr. Sakar Dahal - Deputy Leader 
  Mr. Shiva Kumar Dangi - Member 
  Ms. Beena Magar - Member 
  Ms. Iswari Bhatt - Member 
  Mr. Shiva Bahadur Sapkota - Member 
  Mr. Maheswor Phuyal - Member 
  Mr. Saral Sahayatri Paudel - Member 
  Mr. Yubaraj Dulal - Member 
  Mr. Madan Kumar Chudal - Member

  High Altitude Climbing Sherpas:

  Tsering Thundu Sherpa - Sirdar 
  Phur Geljen Sherpa 
  Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa 
  Pemba Tshering Sherpa 
  Kami Chhiring Sherpa 
  Phurba Tshering Sherpa 
  Ang Kaji Sherpa 
  Pasang Temba Sherpa 
  Shera Gyalzen Sherpa 
  Mingma Nuru Sherpa 
  Ngima Kancha Sherpa


  FROM LUMBUNI TO MT. EVEREST YOUTH LEADERS PEACE EXPEDITION 2012:

  Yubaraj Dulal and Nima Kanchha Sherpa summited at 3 am.

  Saral S. Poudel and Phurba Tshering Sherpa summited at 5:15 am.

  Shiva Kumar Dangi reached summit around 7 am. The exact time to be confirmed later.

  Krishna KC, leader of the Lumbini to Everest Youth Leaders Peace Everest Exp, with Pemba Tshering Sherpa summited at 7:07 am.

  Maheshwor Phuyal with Fura Gyalgen Sherpa summited at 7:07 am.

  Madan K. Chudal with Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa reached summit at 7:07 am.

  Shakar Dahal, Deputy Leader of Lumbini to Everest Youth Leaders Peace Everest Exp, with Kaji Sherpa summited at 8 am.

  Bina Magar with Shera Gyalgen Sherpa summited at 8 am.


  The team left C4 at 8pm on 25 May. Dulal and Ngima Kanchha reached summit at 3 am and spent two hours on summit. Paudel and Phurba Tshiring got to the top at 5 am and spent 30 minutes. Chudal, Ang Kazi and Shera reached at 6 am and stayed for one hour. K. C., Phuyal, Dahal, Phur Gyalzen and Lhakpa reached summit at 7 am and they stayed for 30 minutes. Dulal returned to C4 at 8 am and went down to C2 where he spent the night. Rest of the members and Sherpas returned to C4 between 12 noon to 3 pm. They spent the night at C4. Next day, 27 all went down to BC.

  Bhatt went up to 8000m; she was exhausted. 
  Sapkota went up to 8500m; his mask was not properly working.

  Sherpas:
    Ngima Kancha, (2/3/2037) 15/6/80, Khumjung-1
    Phurba Tshering, (10/2/2030), 23/5/73, Namche-8
    Pemba Tshering, (5/1/2036) 18/8/79, Khumjung-2
    Phur Gyalzen, 2027, Namche-9
    Lhakpa Nuru, (4/10/2047) 18/11/91, Khumjung-2
    Ang Kaji, (5/5/2041) 21/8/84, Waku-4
    Shera Gyalzen, 25/9/87, Khumjung-1


expid: EVER12122
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Sanjay Pandit
sponsor: Sanjay Pandit's Peace Journey from Sworgadwari to Mt Everest 2012
approach: Lukla->Namche->Khumjung->Tengboche->Pheriche->Dingboche->Lobuche
bcdate: 2012-04-28
smtdate: 2012-05-25
termdate: 2012-05-29
termnote: Abandoned at 8445m due to rock fall hitting Pandit on the left hand
campsites: BC(28/05,5300m),C1(08/05,6100m),C2(11/05,6400m),C3(23/05,7500m),C4(24/05,8000m),xxx(25/05,8445m)
accidents: Hit by chunk of falling snow on left hand
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Everest Peace Expedition 2012: (from Asian Trekking website)

  It has been confirmed that Sanjay Pandit of Everest Peace Exp. 2012 and Pasang Namgyal Sherpa reached the altitude of 8445m but had to return down when a rock fell down and hit Sanjay. He sustained minor infuries and could not continue. He is now down safely in base camp and recovering quickly.


  By Hermanta Kafle, General Secretary NSJF, Annapurna Post

  KATHMANDU, May 21, 2012 - In only a matter of days Nepali ultra-runner Sanjay Pandit is expected to summit the earth's highest peak, Mount Everest. 

  According to the team schedule Pandit will summit Everest on May 25 and unfurl the AIPS flag which has accompanied him and his team of experienced mountaineers currently at Base Camp.

  Pandit is in good company. 73-year-old Japanese woman Tamae Watanabe has just broken the world record for being the oldest female to conquer Mount Everest.

  On Saturday, May 19 Tamae Watanabe reached the 8848m peak of the world's tallest mountain after launching her assent Friday night from an altitude of 8300m.

  Sanjay Pandit's expedition is supported by the Nepal Sports Journalists' Forum (NSJF). 

  President Niranjan Rajbanshi and General Secretary Hemanta Kafle handed over the AIPS and NSJF flags to Pandit in Kathmandu on Thursday, April 12.

  President Rajbanshi said: "AIPS is a top organization of world sports press and Pandit will be the first runner to take the AIPS flag to Everest. We are honoured and feel proud to take the AIPS flag to Everest."

  According to Arjun Kumar Kakshapati, the coordinator of Sanjay Pandit's Everest Expedition, Pandit will become the first Nepali athlete to conquer Everest once the expedition is completed.

  Pandit has run 2100 km in total, having already scaled the 6189-meter Island Peak in Nepal.


  Pandit - 3 March 2013

  Climb abandoned on 25 May, due to hit by chunk of falling snow in left hand and torn off his down jacket. The hand was unbearably painful.

  Pandit and Pasang Namgyal Sherpa left South Col at 7:30 pm on 24 May; around 1 am on 25 May they reached at 8685m. Pandit was hit by chunk of falling snow then went down to South Col where they arrived at about 2:30 am. They went down to C2 and spent night. Next day 26 May went down to BC.


expid: LHOT12124
peakid: LHOT
year: 2012
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Mike Hamill
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Lhotse Expedition 2012
countries: Australia
bcdate: 2012-04-09
smtdate: 2012-05-27
smttime: 0535
termdate: 2012-05-28
othersmts: Climbed Everest (EVER-121-81)
campsites: BC(24/04,5250m),C1(26/04,6065m),C2(30/04,6500m),C3(24/05,7300m),C4(25/05,7900m),Smt(27/05)
agency: Beyul Adventure
primid: EVER12181
routememo:
  A total of three members were on a Lhotse permit, Peter Ford, Ms. Kerrie McMartin and Moniz, but Moniz was the only one to actually try for the summit. McMartin went only as far as C2 about 8 May, was too tired to go any higher and went home. Ford got to C3 about 17 May, but the ropes had not been fixed all the way to the top; he had no time to wait and left the team on 19 May.


expid: EVER12102
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Noriyuki Muraguchi, Asian Trekking Staff
sponsor: Asian Trekking International Everest Expedition 2012
countries: Hungary, Poland, Sweden, USA
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2012-04-13
smtdate: 2012-05-19
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2012-05-28
campsites: Smt(19-20/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  The Asian Trekking International Everest expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-4 climbers each). Asian Trekking provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  David Klein (Hungary)
  Edina Aniko Torok (Hungary)

  Name:  Dockler Everest Expedition 2012 
  Camps: BC(15/04,5000m),ABC(24/04,6400m),C1(07/05,7100m),C2(24/05,7800m),
         xxx(25/05,8000m)
  Left:  28/05/2012
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned at 8000m due to being too slow due to lack of acclimatization

  First summit attempt would have been on 18 May; however the ropes had not been fixed, so Klein abandoned this plan and went back to BC from 7600m on 17 May.

  On his summit attempt, Klein left C2 at 7:30 am to reach C3. When he reached 8000m at about 9:30 am, he felt that he was too slow and decided to turn back. He broke down his camps on the descent and went all the way to bC, wehre he arrived at 9 pm.

  Klein felt stronger again when he got down and was contemplating a third summit attempt; however, the weather forecast was not good so he decided to go home. He left BC on 28 May.

  Oxygen: not taken, not used.


  William Burke (USA)
  Allan Robert Smith (USA)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(13/05,5200m),ABC(15/05,6400m),C1(17/05,7000m),C2(18/05,7700m),
         C3(19/05,8300m),xxx(20/05,8600m)
  Left:  23/05/2012
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 8600m due to wind, coldness and too late in the day

  Burke had come from the south side of Everest. He took a helicopter from BC on the south side on 8 May and stayed a few days in Kathmandu before he took a vehicle to BC on the north side.

  Burke and Ang Mingma left C3 at 8 pm on 19 May. When they started up it was windy, which increased significantly and when they reached the 2nd Step at 8600m at 3:00 am it was snowing and very windy. Burke got too cold and decided to turn back. They descended to C3, where they arrived at 7 am. They rested for about 3 hours, then continued to C2, where they arrived at 5 pm. They stayed the night and descended to ABC on 21 May. On 22 May they descended to BC and left on 24 May.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from 6600m to high point to 6800m by Burke.
    From C2 to high point to C2 by Sherpa.

  Sherpas:
    Mingma (Ang Mingma), Yilajung, 21/2/1968, Everest X8, Cho Oyu X1, Manaslu X1


  Noriyuki Muraguchi (Japan)
  Tamae Watanabe (Japan)

  Name:  Watanabe-Muraguchi Everest Expedition
  Camps: BC(15/04,5100m),ABC(26/04,6400m),C1(16/05,7400m),C2(17/05,7800m),
         C3(18/05,8300m),Smt(19/05)
  Left:  24/05/2012
  Hired: 3
  Term:  Success

  The team established BC on 15 April and stayed until the 25th acclimatizing there. On the 26th they moved up to ABC, and in early and mid-May they moved higher to acclimatize more, but returned to ABC and did not establish their three high camps until their push to the summit.

  The push to the summit began on 16 May, when they climbed from ABC to occupy C1 at the North Col. The next day, they pitched C2, and made C3 at 8300m on the 18th.

  At 9:00 pm (NST) on the 18th, the two members and their three Sherpas left C3 for the top. All arrived at the summit at 7:00 am of 19 May. Ms. Watanabe now became the oldest woman to reach the top of Everest.

  They descended to C2, where they arrived at 5:00 pm, after having stopped in C3 to rest. The following day, 20 May, they went down to ABC and were in BC on the 22nd. They left BC for Kathmandu on the 24th.

  Ms. Watanabe found the ladder at the Second Step a problem only because she was wearing an oxygen mask, and it was difficult to see her feet with a mask on.

  The members started using oxygen in C1 and continued on it to the summit and down to C1. The Sherpas started on it in C3, and stayed on it to the top and back to C1 or ABC, wherever their supply ran out.

  Sherpas:
    Mingma Sherpa, 1/10/97, Thamo, Khumbu, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2
    Phura Nuru Sherpa, 28/6/85, Tesho, Namche-5, Khumbu, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2
    Phurba Sherpa, 27/6/58, Thamo, Khumbu, Everest X1


  Ryszard Pawlowski (Poland)
  Maciej Przyborski (Poland)
  Malgorzata Waszkowska (Poland)
  Iwona Zadarnowska-Wingert (Poland)
  Przemyslaw Kepczynski (Sweden)

  Name:  Five for Everest 
  Camps: BC(19/04,5200m),ABC(22/04,6400m),C1(01/05,7000m),C2(18/05,7700m),
         C3(19/05,8300m),Smt(20/05)
  Left:  24/05/2012
  Hired: 5
  Term:  Success

  Pawlowski, Kepczynski and Ang Chhiri left C3 at 10 pm on 19 May. There were few people on the route. Weather was very windy. Kepczynski reached 8500m at about midnight, but was suffering from a stomach pain (probably gall stones - he had this problem before) and turned back to C3. Summit team spent about 15 minutes on the summit with about six other people and descended to C3, where they arrived at about 10 am. They collected Kepczynski who had been waiting at C3 and they descended to C1, where they arrived at 5:30 pm.

  Przyborski and Waszkowska (couple) reached about 6800m, but never reached the North Col, even though they tried three times. They always had an excuse why not to carry on - little ailments, according to Pawlowski. They stayed at ABC for the whole of the expedition.

  Zadarnowska reached C2 on 18 May. She had been having sinusitis since the beginning of the expedition. Due to this she was too slow and would not have been able to reach the summit. She stayed one night at C2 and descended to ABC on 20 May. They left BC on 24 May.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C2 to top to C2 by Pawlowski and Ang Chhiri
    From C2 to high point to C1 by Kepczynski.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Chhiring, aka Chhiri, Thamo, Khumbu 2/6/1973, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2


expid: ANN412302
peakid: ANN4
year: 2012
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Denmark
leaders: Amma Knudsen
sponsor: Inuit Climbers 2012 to Annapurna IV
bcdate: 2012-09-13
termdate: 2012-09-13
termnote: Abandoned at 4700m (BC) due illness of one member
campsites: BC(13/09,4700m),xxx
agency: Himland Adventure
routememo:
  The two members left Kathmandu for the mountain on 7 September, intending to climb it by the normal NW Ridge route. But one member, Ms. Sethsen, soon became sick and returned to Kathmandu, but Ms. Knudsen went to the site for BC at 4700m on 13 September. She had no intention to do any climbing as the only member; she just wanted to see the mountain from there and to see where they would have camped. No camp was established.

  Knudsen returned to Kathmandu on the 18th, and the two members together left Nepal on 21 September.


expid: MAKA12301
peakid: MAKA
year: 2012
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Suzanne Huesser
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Makalu Expedition 2012
countries: Austria, Germany, Italy, Mexico
approach: Tumlingtar->Tashigaon->BC
bcdate: 2012-09-07
smtdate: 2012-09-28
termdate: 2012-10-09
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to high winds
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
campsites:
  BC(07/09,4840m),ABC(09/09,5440m),C1(12/09,6154m),C2(17/09,6750m),C3(26/09,7400m),C4(28/09,7900m),xxx(28/09,7900m)

routememo:
  C4 at 7900m wrong C4 on rocky buttress
  High point at top of rocky buttress.

  After the second acclimatization phase during which the team did not get to sleep on the Makalu La as they had run out of rope, the whole team left BC on 24 Sept for their summit attempt. They spent two nights at the Makalu La to get a better acclimatization as they were attempting to summit without using supplementary oxygen. During their rest day the Sherpas estabished C4; however, they put it in the wrong place. Instead of traversing left from the Makalu La, they went straight up and established the C4 on top of a rock pinnacle at about 7900m.

  When Huesser and the rest of the team arrived at C4 and realized the mistake, it was clear that neither the Sherpas nor the team would have been strong enough to move the camp the following day and try to summit on 30 Sept, so they decided to descend to BC.

  The high point team (Huesser, Bierling, Stoll, Wunderlich, Contreras and Gonzalez) intended another summit attempt on 8 Oct; however, when they reached C2 on 6 Oct the winds were just too high to carry on. They packed up C2 and descended to BC, which was the end of the expedition.

  Schoellhuber reached an altitude of about 7650m during the first summit attempt on 28 Sept; however, he was too tired to carry on and turned back to C3, where he spent the night. He descended to BC on 29 Sept and left BC on 2 Oct.

  Streich reached an altitude of about 6900m on 17 Sept during the second acclimatization phase when the team tried to reach the Makalu La for the first time. He got cold during the climb and wanted to turn back to C2 to get his down gear, however, by the time he got there and back he was too tired to carry on.

  Streich abandoned the expedition during the summit attempt as he had bruised or hair fractured a rib, which he felt when he reached C2 on 25 Sept. He was in too much pain to carry on and descended to BC on 26 Sept. He left BC together with Schollhuber on 2 Oct.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken not used.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba, Ghunsa, Lelep-9, Taplejung, 9/7/1982
    Nima Tendu, Upper Walung, Makalu-Barun, 31/8/1973
    Tenji, Tapting-7, Solukhumbu, 16/4/1981
    Pasang Angchuk, Gyabla, Lelep-8, Taplejung, 15/2/1984


expid: MANA12309
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Takanobu Kajiyama
sponsor: Adventure Guides Manaslu Expedition 2012
bcdate: 2012-09-09
smtdate: 2012-09-30
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2012-10-04
campsites: BC(09/09,4750m),C1(13/09,5500m),C2(22/09,6200m),C3(28/09,6600m),C4(29/09,7200m),Smt(30/09)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  All eight members of the expedition summited with five Sherpas. They left C4 at 3:00 am on 30 September, reached the top at 9:00 am and descended to C2 at 10:00 pm.

  The members used oxygen from C3 to the summit and down to C3. Their Sherpas used none at all.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Cheppa Sherpa, 29/10/83, Sotang-6, Solu, Everest X2
    Da Dendi Sherpa, 28/5/81, Saframa, Lokhim-9, Solu, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X3,
       Manaslu X1
    Da Kalsang Sherpa, 20/1/86, Lokhim, Solu
    Katib Singh Tamang, 30/8/76, Deusa, Solu
    Phura Chhiri Sherpa, 10/5/69, Saframa, Lokhim-9, Solu


expid: MANA12302
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Robert Hochreiter
sponsor: Amical Alpin Manaslu Expedition 2012
countries: Austria
approach: Arughat
bcdate: 2012-09-12
smtdate: 2012-09-22
termdate: 2012-09-23
termnote: Abandoned at 6730m due to fatal avalanche
campsites: BC(12/09,4840m),C1(15/09,5760m),C2(22/09,6730m),xxx(22/09,6730m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  The expedition planned to put their C3 at 7400m, the normal site for C4, but they never got there. At 4:00 am on the 23rd, they were hit buy a large avalanche that killed one member.

  The fatal avalanche, which took a total of eleven lives from half a dozen teams, fell from an ice on the North Ridge; it carried snow with it, and its snow buried climbers tents. The Amical expedition's C2 was at 6730m, the normal site for C3, and its tents were buried in the snow, as were tents of other teams C3.

  The leader, Robert Hochreiter, was in his tent which was buried, but he was freed alive and unharmed by cutting open his tent. However, from this expedition, four members were badly affected.

  * Christian Mittermeyer was killed by it.

  * Martin Neubauer's knee was hit by pieces of ice, which left him walking with pain and difficulty.

  * Andreas Reiter's vertebra was fractured. He had had to be evacuated from C2 to a Kathmandu hospital by helicopter.

  * Ralf Rieske's fingers were frostbitten and big blisters resulted (they will heal); also his ribs were paiful. He used oxygen after the avalanche hit him.


expid: MANA12303
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: UK
leaders: Christopher Groves
sponsor: Jagged Globe Manaslu Expedition 2012
countries: Ireland
bcdate: 2012-09-14
smtdate: 2012-09-21
termdate: 2012-09-28
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to avalanche danger
campsites: BC(14/09,4800m),C1(20/09,5650m),xxx(21/09,5800m)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  Groves, Keane and Wells went above C1 to acclimatize. Baston reached C1 with them on 20 Sept, but went no higher and Sherpas did not go above C1. On 22 September all members descended to BC.


expid: MANA12304
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: USA
leaders: Mike Hamill
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Manaslu Expedition 2012
countries: Canada, Germany, Norway
bcdate: 2012-09-05
smtdate: 2012-09-23
termdate: 2012-09-25
termnote: Abandoned at 6580m due to avalanche danger
campsites: BC(05/09,4800m),C1(10/09,5760m),C2(22/09,6340m),xxx(23/09,6580m)
agency: Beyul Adventure
routememo:
  This expedition was not directly affected by the fatal avalanche of 23 
  September, but the avalanche danger posed by the fatal avalanche prompted them to abandon their climb.

  Hamill climbed a few hundred meters above C2 on the 23rd to have a good look at the area and to volunteer to help rescue victims, but no one else from this team ventured above the camp.

  Two members dropped out well before the disaster; both reached C1. But Chlouber was not acclimatizing well, and he flew out of Samagaon on 11 September. Pierson also did not acclimatize satisfactorily, and he left Samagaon the after Chlouber.


expid: MANA12305
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: USA
leaders: Garrett Madison
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Manaslu Expedition 2012
countries: Argentina, Australia, Canada
bcdate: 2012-09-11
smtdate: 2012-09-23
termdate: 2012-09-26
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to avalanche danger
campsites: BC(11/09,4600m),C1(17/09,5700m),C2(22/09,6150m),xxx(23/09,6500m)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  Madison went to 6500m on 23 September with IMG's Mike Hamill and Madison's sirdar Lhakpa Rita to help rescue people hit by avalanche that morning.

  Sirdar:
    Lhakpa Rita, Thami (now Shoreline, Washington, USA), DOB 9/9/66


expid: MANA12307
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Chile
leaders: Pedro Binfa
sponsor: Manaslu Learning to Dream
countries: USA
bcdate: 2012-09-14
smtdate: 2012-09-27
termdate: 2012-09-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due lack of time
campsites: BC(14/09,4800m),C1(19/09,5700m),xxx(27/09,6100m)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  Binfa, Dumais and Soto returned from BC to C1 on 22 September intending to establish C2 the next day. But early the next morning there was a fatal avalanche, and they descended to BC instead.

  On the 26th, Binfa and Dumais returned to C1; Soto had no wish to continue climbing. On the 27th, Binfa and Dumais moved up to 6100m and then returned to C1.  The two Chileans decided in C1 that they did not want to continue to climb. They did not have sufficient time left to summit successfully. In addition, now they were only two members still climbing, and all three wanted to climb together. So they collected their gear in C1 and went back to BC that day. The climb was over.


expid: MANA12308
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Olivier Rozier
sponsor: Objective 8000 to Manaslu
approach: Via Arughat and Samagaon
bcdate: 2012-09-14
smtdate: 2012-09-23
termdate: 2012-09-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to lack of Sherpa support
campsites: BC(14/09,4950m),C1(20/09,5800m),xxx(23/09,6400m)
agency: Mountain Treks
routememo:
  Ascent schedule:
    14/09/2012: arrival on Base Camp. 5 days waiting in snow and rain!
    19/09/2012: one day trip to C1 from BC.
    20/09/2012: first night to C1 and back to BC the day after.
    22/09/2012: night at C1.
    23/09/2012: started from C1 at 6 am, reaching destroyed C2 in 3 hours 
                around 9 am. Olivier back at BC. Two others slept at C1.
    24/09/2012: all at the base camp.
    27/09/2012: trio at C1 and back to the base camp after departure of head Sherpa.
    28/09/2012: leave base camp for Samagaon.

  * fixed rope:
    BC ->  C1: 15%
    C1 ->  C2: 70%

  Oxygen:

  At the beginning they didn't want to use it, even if each of them took a security bottle. After a while on the mountain, Olivier decided to use it to climb up from C3 to the top, because he wanted to be clear minded enough to take off from the summit with his paraglide. (According to him, the takeoff wouldn't be easy, the final slopes being exposed north whilst the wind mostly blows from the west). Jean-Christophe wanted to use it as well from C3 to summit then back to C3 for safety. Only Cedric, being fitter than his teammates, didn't want to use it all.

  * What's happened .. according to Olivier Rozier

  The night of the avalanche, Olivier heard many avalanches noises, the one at 4 am not being stronger than the others. (Days before, he heard many avalanches noises as well and spoke a lot with Reme LeCluse about the potential danger of his new heavy snow mantle.) When the trio reached C2 the 23rd of September around 9 am and discovered it totally destroyed (with dead bodies in sleeping bags). Olivier was shocked and decided to go back to the base camp. The two other decided to continue normally the ascent by depositing some gear there then sleeping at C1 again. But the day after they were back to the base camp as well.

  From there, the French discussed with Lhakpa Sherpa. According to Olivier, Lhakpa tried to cause them with anxiety because he didn't want to climb anymore after the avalanche, apparently overwhelmed with superstition. (Olivier remarked rationally that Lhakpa didn't care about avalanche risk the day before avalanche.) After 3 days, the 27th of September, the 3 Frenchmen were back to their program of the 22nd and climbed to C1. Then Lhakpa joined them to announce he wouldn't climb anymore and was leaving the expedition.

  Because they couldn't have carried their own gear themselves (and being already late in their program), shocked by the avalanche and disappointed by the departure of Lhakpa Sherpa, the trio decide to abandon the expedition the day after.


expid: MANA12310
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Tsuneaki Suzuki
sponsor: Manaslu 2012
bcdate: 2012-09-11
smtdate: 2012-09-29
termdate: 2012-10-02
termnote: Abandoned at 8015m due to exhaustion
campsites: BC(11/09,4700m),C1(12/09,5700m),C2(21/09,6300m),xxx(29/09,8015m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  On 21 September Suzuki climbed to 6700m to acclimatize and descended to C2 the same day. He stayed in C2 on the 22nd, but retreated to BC on the 23rd because of the fatal avalanche early that morning.

  On the 29th his plan was to the summit from C2 and to return to that camp later in the day. But he turned around at 8015m. He was not on oxygen, and he was "just too tired to go higher." He stayed in C2 on the 30th and was back in BC on the 1st of October. His climb was finished.


expid: MANA12306
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Malaysia
leaders: Ravichandran Tharumalingam
sponsor: Malaysian Manaslu Expedition 2012
bcdate: 2012-09-13
smtdate: 2012-09-22
termdate: 2012-09-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to lack of Sherpa support
campsites: BC(13/09,4700m),C1(17/09,5300m),C2(22/09,6500m),xxx(22/09,6500m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Snow and wind from the fatal avalanche on 23 September hit Tharumalingam's tent at C2, and the tent with him in it rolled over four times. He managed to jump out of the tent as it continued to move down the mountain side; he was now about 10 meters below his camp's site at 6500m. He had one Sherpa with him on the climb, whom he knew as Mingma and who rushed to his side. Neither man was injured. They descended to BC that day, the 23rd.

  Mingma did not want to stay on Manaslu, and left immediately. Tharumalingam asked Asian Trekking to send him another Sherpa. The new man was Tshering Phinjo, who said climbing high on Manaslu was impossible, so Tharumalingam abandoned his bid to summit it. On 28 September, the two went to C1 only to bring it down. They returned to BC on the 29th and left on the 30th.

  Sherpas:
    Mingma's full name is Mingma Dorje Sherpa, but he is also known as just Mingma,
      DOB 1/10/77 (15/6/2034), from Thamo, Khumbu, summited Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2,
      Manaslu X1
    Tshering Phinjo, 2/4/73, Khumjung, Everest X3, Manaslu X2


expid: AMAD11354
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Antonio Raigon Pleguezuelos
sponsor: Sevilla Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2011-10-21
smtdate: 2011-11-01
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2011-11-04
campsites: BC(21/10),C1(24/10),C2(30/10),C3(31/10,6250m),Smt(01/11)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Summit day:
    9 am in tent to wait for sun
    10 am left tent
    2:30 om summit
      
    10 total on summit:
      3 Koreans + 3 Sherpas
      Iranian (Arman) + Sherpa
      Raigon + Quesada
      
      Koreans may be 2 hours earlier


expid: MANA12311
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Canada
leaders: Martin Boiteau
sponsor: Canada Manaslu
approach: Arughat->Samagaon
bcdate: 2012-09-18
smtdate: 2012-09-28
termdate: 2012-10-12
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to snow and glacier conditions, lack of equipment
campsites: BC(18/09,4800m),C1(23/09,5800m),C2(28/09,6400m),xxx(28/09,6600m)
agency: Third Pole Trekking
routememo:
  The team didn't use oxygen at all and was on its own to carry all its equipment (no Sherpa).

  The day of the avalanche (23rd of September), Martin and Phillipe who slept at C1 went up to C2 and helped for the rescue. After the avalanche both went back to the base camp with all other teams and waited a few days before starting again (many teams had left just after the avalanche, just a few commercial expedition remaining).

  The pair slept twice at C2 (28th of September for the first time, then 30th of September) and went back to BC the 1st of October. From this date, no more commercial expeditions were on the mountain after having summited, only amateur teams remaining. Then the glacier conditions went bad (already on their way down from C2 the 1st October, just 10 minutes after their departure an avalanche of ice blocks damaged the route), most of the ice bridges on the glacier had melted too much and crevasses were opened too wide (would have needed ladders to cross them, any gear that Sherpa from commercial expedition usually installed!), and there was snow every day (snow above the hips whilst tracing to C1!). After the 1st of October, the amateur teams joined together to try to equip the mountain, but struggled to set up at C1, with no team at all reaching C2. After 10 days of effort, most of the amateur teams had left one after another, so Martin and Philippe decided to abandon as well (the 10th October).

  David Smith stopped at the deposit camp (at 5600m) where he slept one night and left base camp the 23rd of September. He abandoned the expedition because of lack of strength and adaptation to altitude first, then the day of the avalanche he definitely decided to quit.


expid: AMAD11326
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Marco Sala
sponsor: Amphu Lapcha Ama Dablam Expedition 2011
bcdate: 2011-11-01
smtdate: 2011-11-05
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2011-11-08
campsites: BC(01/11,4800m),C1(03/11,5700m),C2(04/11,6000m),Smt(05/11)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Marco Sala (email) - 21 Nov 2012

  I tried the Ama Dablam in 2010 (October) but I have not reached the summit due to bad weather. In 2011 I tried again with success, I arrived at the top of the day November 5 to 11.30/12.00 if I remember correctly. About 30 minutes after he 
  arrived at the top of a mountain climber Polish, together we took pictures with Everest in the background.

  I arrived at the base camp (4800m) on 1 November, already acclimatized as I had made the approach through the Mera La and then step Amphu Laptsa down to the Island Peak and the village of Chhukung.

  On 2 November, I rested. On 3 I reached camp 1 at 5700m. The 4th I went up to Camp 2 at 6000m. The 5th I reached the summit and down again to Camp 2 where I spent 
  the night. The next day, November 6, I returned to base camp. The 07 I rested, while the day 08 I went down to Namche Bazar.

  Francesco Codemo came to an altitude of 6600m, he returned back exhausted.
  Fausto Sassatelli has come just above Camp 2 but had to return to nosebleeds.

  I hope to have been exhaustive.

  In its Database is my ascent of Everest on May 22, 2008, at 8.20 in the morning along with Renato Sottsass and Cristian Corazza? I would appreciate a response.


expid: AMAD11337
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Michele Barbiero
sponsor: Dolomite Ama Dablam Expedition 2011
bcdate: 2011-10-28
smtdate: 2011-11-04
termdate: 2011-11-05
campsites: BC(28/10,4500m),C1(30/10,5800m),C2(03/11,6000m),Smt(04/11)
agency: International Sherpa Adventure
routememo:
  Michele Barbiero (email) - 26 Nov 2012

  Arrived at BC on October 28th
  October 29th rest day
  October 30th go to C1 and spent the night there 5800m
  October 31st back to BC
  November 1st rest day
  November 2nd go to C1 5800m
  November 3rd go to C2 6000m
  November 4th summit and back to BC
  November 5th rest day
  November 5th back to Namche

  It was a nice climb on an amazing mountain, it was cold and windy and for this reason we spent only ten minutes on summit.

  I've not appreciate the way of managing the high camps from the commercial expeditions Sherpas, they have a disgusting behavior!!!

  For the rest, that was my tenth time in Himalaya, so everything gone well.


expid: AMAD11327
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Ryszard Pawlowski
sponsor: Patagonia Mountain Agency (PMA) Ama Dablam Expedition 2011
approach: Lukla->Namche->Deboche->Chhukung->Island Pk BC->Dingboche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2011-11-12
smtdate: 2011-11-15
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2011-11-18
othersmts: Climbed Island Pk on 7 Nov by all members
campsites: BC(12/11,4500m),C1(13/11,5700m),C2(14/11,6250m),Smt(15-16/11)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  On 15 Nov Pawlowski and Sladek left C3 at 8 am. They got to the top at 12 noon, stayed on the summit for 30 minutes, descended to C3 at 2:30 pm and continued on to C1 and spent the night there. They went down to BC on 16 Nov. The summit day weather was good. They were the only climbers that got to the top that day.

  On 16 Nov Gruszczynski, Tauszynski and Mingma started their summit push at 7:30 am from C3. They got to the top around 2 pm and stayed on the summit for 15 minutes. They reached C2 at around 4 pm and spent the night there. Next day they went down to BC. The weather was cloudy with wind. One Spanish woman with a Sherpa summited on that day.

  Panzig left the expedition on 8 Nov from Pangboche. Sewerynski went up to C1 on 13 Nov.

  Pawlowski said that on 16 Nov he saw the body of a Russian climber hanging on the rope 100m below the summit. This occurred after summiting.

  Sherpas:
    Mingma, Phortse


expid: AMAD11328
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Kamil Gabarski
sponsor: Ama Dablam Polish Expedition 2011
approach: By helicopter from Kathmandu to Thyangboche
bcdate: 2011-10-28
smtdate: 2011-11-05
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2011-11-08
campsites: BC(28/10,4700m),C1(01/11,5700m),C2(03/11,5900m),Smt(05/11)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Botor started his summit push from C2 at 3 am on 5 November. He got to the top at 11 am and stayed on summit for 30 minutes, then went down to C2 at 4:30 pm and spent the night. Next day 6 November to BC.


  Kamil Gabarski (email) - 26 Nov 2012

  Jaroslaw summited at 10:30 am [11:35 am as per web site] with Marco from Italy and one fast Austrian summiter who was an hour before them.


expid: CHOY11329
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: Romania
leaders: Adrian Fako
sponsor: Romanian Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 2011-09-19
smtdate: 2011-10-01
termdate: 2011-10-04
termnote: Abandoned at 8060m due to altitude issues (loss of consciousness)
campsites: BC(19/09,4900m),ABC(5700m),C1(6400m),C2,C3(30/09,7600m),xxx(01/10,8060m)
agency: Sherpa Adventure Travel
routememo:
  Adrian Fako (email) - 18, 20 Nov 2012

  We were on Cho Oyu last year, I don't know all the information without checking the photo albums from home. I know that we were at 7600m on the 30th of September and we reached around 8060m on the 1st, maybe we reached base camp on the 19th or 20th. We came back because I fainted and lost consciousness for a few minutes up there.

  My partner turned back because of fatigue a few minutes before me.

  We didn't have Sherpas or oxygen.

  We acclimatized up to 6800m, then we came back and climbed to 8000m in the second ascent, after 12 days since arriving in base camp.

  It was much too fast without oxygen, we were there for the first time and scared of the weather.

  Next time we will be more cautious, we will take it slower.


expid: CHOY11341
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Jordi Tosas
sponsor: Aragon Aventura Cho Oyu 2011
bcdate: 2011-09-11
smtdate: 2011-10-01
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to bad conditions and client exhaustion
campsites: BC(11/09,4900m),ABC(14/09,5700m),C1(18/09,6400m),C2(23/09,7100m),xxx(01/10,8000m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Group A (guided): Bermejo, Melowny Perez, Ruiz, Tosas (guide)
  Group B (independent): Gallego, Quintana

  Group A:

  Melowny Perez left 27 Sept due to psychological issues (had enough) and went home.

  Bermejo, Ruiz, Tosas and Rinji went for summit push on 29 Sept to C1; to C2 on 30 Sept. 30th night at 10 pm tried for the summit. Ruiz felt bad due to ulcer and returned to ABC. The rest continued for summit push. At 7900m, Bermejo was very tired, so group decided to descend to C2. No problem with health, only tired. Slept a little at C2, then down to ABC at 6 pm.

  Group B:

  Gallego and Quintana went for summit push on 30 Sept, stayed at C2. Night of Oct 1 were to leave for summit push, so spent an extra night at C2. Left from C2 about 11 pm. On Oct 2, Jordi can see them with binoculars from ABC at 3-4 pm at 8000m above Yellow Band. They decided to turn back just above the plateau after 17 hours out. No oxygen, no Sherpas, no radio. But Jordi sees them turn back. Gallego descends faster and loses Quintana (Pepe); nobody sees him. Gallego estimates arriving back at C2 about 6-7 pm, judging by angle of sun, so not entirely sure.


expid: CHOY11333
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: Portugal
leaders: Jose Diogo Giraldes Tavares
sponsor: Glacier Watch Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2011-09-03
smtdate: 2011-10-01
termdate: 2011-10-04
termnote: Abandoned at 8050m due to exhaustion and frozen toes
campsites: CBC(03/09,5200m),ABC(5700m),C1(6400m),C2(7100m),xxx(04/10,8050m)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Giraldes started to climb up from C2 at 1:15 am of 1 Oct. He reached 8050m at 3 pm, then skied down tp C2 where he arrived at 5 pm. Next day he went down to ABC.

  Weather clear, not too cold.

  Note: he does not remember camping dates and altitudes (estimated in notes).


expid: CHOY11336
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Eliano Pessa
sponsor: Cho Oyu 2011 Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2011-09-12
smtdate: 2011-09-23
termdate: 2011-09-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to too much snow and ice and too slow
campsites: BC(12/09,4800m),IC(14/09,5200m),ABC(15/09,5700m),C1(19/09,6500m),xxx(23/09/6700m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  The team of Millesimi and Pessa did not attempt to go to the summit.

  They said that two climbers died on the mountain, one Czech and one German on 23 or 24 Sept.


expid: CHOY11308
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Wilhelm Comploi
sponsor: Ladinia Cho Oyu Expedition 2011
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 2011-09-10
smtdate: 2011-10-03
termdate: 2011-10-09
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to snow storm and cold
campsites: BC(10/09,4900m),ABC(12/09,5700m),C1(19/09,6400m),C2(25/09,7100m),xxx(03/10,7500m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Christian Denicolo (email) - 21 Nov 2012

  Hello from Italy. We did not summit Cho Oyu 2011 because we have very cold temperature on camp 2. We all went to camp 2 7200m, tried to go higher but it was to cold. We were 6 pax and we did not use oxygen. We did not use Sherpas. We came to base camp on 10 September and left base camp on 9 October.


expid: LHOT12125
peakid: LHOT
year: 2012
route1: W Face
nation: India
leaders: Dipankar Ghosh
sponsor: Mt. Lhotse Expedition 2012 from West Bengal
approach: Lukla->Jorsale->Namche->Debuche->Somare->Thukla->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2012-04-14
smtdate: 2012-05-25
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2012-05-28
campsites: BC(14/04,5364m),C1(22/04,6100m),C2(28/04,6300m),C3(18/05,7100m),C4(19/05,7900m),Smt(25/05)
agency: Loben Expeditions
routememo:
  Bhattacharya, Ghosh, Karma Gyalzen and Nga Tashi left C4 at 9:30 pm on 24 May. They got to the top at 7 am on 25 May. The team members and Sherpas stayed on the summit for about 20 minutes, then descended to C4 where they arrived at 12 noon and continued to C2 where they spent the night. The next day 26 May the team went down to BC.

  The climbers who summited ahead of the Bhattacharya team were members of the Indian army, an Iranian woman and some other climbers. The summit weather was very good. Bhattacharya said that one Czech climber died on 19 May and one on 25 May, probably Russian. [Note; body of Czech Pavel Kalney retrieved on 25 May 2012 - died in 2006.]

  The high point for Ms. Bhattacharya was C4; she got tired.

  Oxygen:
    Members - C3 to smt to C3
    Sherpas - C4 to smt to C4

  Sherpas:
    Nga Tashi, Yaphu-9, 4/10/80, 18/6/2030, Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha, KangX1.
    Karma Gelgen, 4/2/76, (21/10/2032), Chermei, Bung-9, Solu, EverestX3.
    Norbu


expid: AMAD11330
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Eric Larson
approach: Lukla->Namche->Chhukung->Lobuche->Pangboche->Ama Dablam BC
bcdate: 2011-10-18
smtdate: 2011-10-25
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2011-10-26
othersmts: Climbed Kongmatse and Pokalde
campsites: BC(10/18,4600m),C1(19/10,5750m),C2(24/10,6300m),Smt(25/10)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  Larson and Hyland started from C2 at 3 am. They arrived C3 arond 7 am. Both got to the top at 10:30 am, stayed on summit for half an hour. They descended to C2 at 2:30 pm and continued to C1 where they arrived at 5:30 pm and spent night there.  Next day on 26 Oct they went down to Pangboche.


  David Hyland (email) - 28 Nov 2012

  (1) Our team consisted of just the two of us, myself and Eric Larson. Eric is a professional guide (IFMGA) who has previously attempted and summited Ama Dablam, as well as Cho Oyu, and I was his client.

  (2) Here is our itinerary:

  BC arrival date was 10/18/11 and our BC departure date was 10/26/11.

  10/08/11 -- flight from Kathmandu to Lukla
  10/08/11 -- trek from Lukla to Phakding
  10/09/11 -- trek from Phakding to Namche
  10/10/11 -- day hike from Namche to Khumjung/Khunde and return to Namche
  10/11/11 -- trek from Namche to Pangboche
  10/12/11 -- trek from Pangboche to Chhukung
  10/13/11 -- trek from Chhukung to High Camp in the basin just to the east of
              Kongma-La Pass (approx 17,400 ft)
  10/14/11 -- climb and summit Kongma-Tse (19,094 ft)
  10/15/11 -- climb and summit Pokalde (19,049 ft)
  10/15/11 -- trek from High Camp to Lobuche
  10/16/11 -- trek from Lobuche to Pangboche
  10/17/11 -- rest day in Pangboche
  10/18/11 -- trek from Pangboche to Ama Dablam BC
  10/19/11 -- ascend from BC to Camp 1
  10/20/11 -- ascend from Camp 1 to mid-point between Camps 1 and 2 and return to
              Camp 1
  10/21/11 -- descend from Camp 1 to BC
  10/22/11 -- rest day in BC
  10/23/11 -- ascend to Camp 1
  10/24/11 -- ascend to Camp 2
  10/25/11 -- ascend from Camp 2 to summit and descend to Camp 1
   2:15 am -- woke up
   3:30 am -- depart Camp 2
   6:30-7:00 am (approximate time) -- arrive Camp 3 for 5-10 minute food/water break
  10:00 am -- arrive summit
  10:30 am -- depart summit
   2:30 pm -- arrive Camp 2
   3:30 pm -- depart Camp 2
   5:00 pm -- arrive Camp 1 (Eric Larson)
   6:00 pm -- arrive Camp 1 (David Hyland)
  10/26/11 -- descend from Camp 1 to BC and continue descent to Pangboche
  10/27/11 -- rest day in Pangboche
  10/28/11 -- trek from Pangboche to Namche
  10/29/11 -- trek from Namche to Lukla
  10/30/11 -- flight from Lukla to Kathmandu

  Attached below you will find an altitude profile chart of our expedition.

  (3) We summited Ama Dablam on Oct 25, 2011, at 10:00 am. We spent 30 minutes on the summit and then began our descent at 10:30 am.

  (4) We did not have any Sherpa with us. We hired two porters to carry gear from Lukla to Namche. From there we used one porter to carry our climbing gear to Pangboche and then again on up to Ama Dablam BC. After we summited a porter then carried our gear from BC down to Pangboche and then from Pangboche back down to Lukla. I'm not sure if we used one or two porters for the outbound carry. I do not know their names.

  (5) There were no real notable details. Overall, the trip went very smoothly.
   
  To facilitate our climbing speed and help ensure our success, we tried to stay light. For instance, we borrowed a tent at Camp 2, so we did not need to carry nor set up a tent above Camp 1. And on our summit day Eric carried a small pack and I carried no pack.
   
  In terms of health, we faired well. Of course, we eventually got the "Khumbu cough," and I also picked up a cold from either a Taiwanese trekker or a group of Italian doctors in Pangboche. Neither of us felt any ill effects from the altitude and neither of us had any gastrointestinal issues. 
   
  Also, the weather was quite cooperative. Even the one snowfall event, on Oct 20-21, coincided with our descent back to base camp for a rest day, so it proved to be no inconvenience whatsoever. We heard that on our summit day the winds were forecast to be 50 mph, but that proved to not be the case. 
   
  On our summit day the winds were light and the sun was bright.


expid: BHRI11301
peakid: BHRI
year: 2011
route1: N Face
nation: Canada
leaders: Bernard Van Brugghe
approach: Jomsom->Thangi->Gomathati->Lori Gompa->Domada
bcdate: 2011-09-29
smtdate: 2011-09-30
termdate: 2011-10-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to too much snow (knee-deep) and exhaustion
campsites: BC(29/09,5400m),xxx(30/09,6100m)
agency: Glacier Safari Treks
routememo:
  The team tried to go to the summit from BC, but there was lots of snow and they got tired. The team turned around from about 6100m due to deep snow condition despite of good weather.


expid: DHA112301
peakid: DHA1
year: 2012
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Carlos Soria
sponsor: BBVA Sorita Dhaulagiri Expedition 2012
approach: Marpha->BC
bcdate: 2012-09-11
smtdate: 2012-10-01
termdate: 2012-10-11
termnote: Abandoned at 7580m due to too much wind, avalanche danger
campsites: BC(11/09,4700m),C1(23/09,5800m),C2(30/09,6500m),C3(01/10,7560m),xxx(01/10,7580m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  During summit attempt the high point team spent 2 nights at C3. It was very windy and after the second day they decided to descend to base camp, where they were waiting for better weather.

  On 7 October the Sherpas ascended to C2 to dig out the rope from underneath the snow. When they reached C2 they saw that one of the tents containing four downsuits was blown away. Through their binoculars, the team at base camp also saw that two tents were missing at C3. As there did not seem to be a break in the wind, the team decided to abandon the expedition on 10 October. They left BC on 11 October by helicopter.

  Martinez reached C3 on 1 Oct. He was not intending to go higher as he was employed as the expedition doctor.

  Salas reached C1 several times, but he never got higher as he was not coping well with the altitude.

  Tena stayed at BC; he never intended to climb as he was BC manager.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used

  Sherpas:
    Pasang (Pasang Temba), Balakharka, Makalu-Barun, 20/02/1983
    Jangbu, Kharikhola, Solukhumbu, 19/09/79
    Muktu Lhakpa (Muktuk), Tashigaon, Makalu-Barun, 21/8/1972
    Pasang Norbu, Nurbugaon, Walung, Makalu-Barun, 21/12/1972


expid: MANA12312
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Eva Zarzuelo
sponsor: Spanish Woman on Manaslu
approach: Arughat
bcdate: 2012-09-14
smtdate: 2012-09-30
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2012-10-05
campsites: BC(14/09,4650m),C1(16/09,5400m),C2(21/09,6300m),C3(29/09,7000m),Smt(30/09)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Zarzuelo started at C2 on 29 Sept at 7 am. She arrived at C3 at about 10 am. She stayed at C3 until 11:30 pm and started her summit push. She stopped at C4 at 4 am, changed batteries for heater and slept in a tent. Straightforward climb. She was alone on the summit. She spent about 15 minutes on summit and descended to C4, where she arrived at about 4:30 pm. The following day she descended to C2 and on 2 Oct to BC.


expid: CHOY11310
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Matthew Parkes
sponsor: Jagged Globe Cho Oyu Expedition 2011
countries: France, Ireland
approach: Nyalam->Xegar->BC
bcdate: 2011-09-05
smtdate: 2011-10-01
smttime: 0820
termdate: 2011-10-04
campsites: CBC(05/09),ABC(09/09,5700m),C1(15/09,6400m),C2(20/09,7150m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  Left C2 at 1:45 am on 1 Oct all together, then split up due to speed. Arrived at C3 site 4 to 5 am. Climbed to summit with other groups: Adventure Peaks, Kobler. Arrived at summit at 8:20 am and 9:50 am. Clear on summit.


  Matthew Parkes (email) - 18 Nov 2012

  The other clients got to the following locations:

  James Whitbread: The highest he got was to C2 on an acclimatisation rotation. On our Summit attempt he turned around about 100m above C1 and returned to BC.

  Bruno Baschung: The highest he got was to C2 on an acclimatisation rotation. He did not join the summit attempt and stayed in BC.

  Brett Charlesworth: Withdrew from the expedition early because he was not fit enough. The highest he got on acclimatisation rotation was just above C1.

  Chris Rudge: Withdrew from the expedition early as he was struggling. The highest he got was C1 on acclimatisation.


expid: CHOY11313
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Robert Smith
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Cho Oyu Expedition 2011
countries: Denmark, Lithuania
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2011-09-03
smtdate: 2011-10-01
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2011-10-04
campsites: BC(03/09,4900m),ABC(07/09,5700m),C1(13/09,6400m),C2(23/09,7100m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Hales, Nichols, Smith, Dorje and Mingma left C2 at 1 am (NST) of 1 Oct. Nichols and Dorje got to the top at 10 am, Hales and Mingma at 11:15 am, and Smith at 11:30 am. The climbers stayed on the summit about 20 minutes. Nichols and Dorje got back to C2 and 3 pm and the rest at 5 pm. Next day 2 Oct the team went down to ABC. They saw prayer flags on the summit and also had a view of Everest. About 30 climbers were on the summit ahead of the Smith team. Weather was very good, clear sky and sunny day.

  David Woods left the expedition on 20 Sept due to personal reasons and arrived in Kathmandu on 21 Sept.

  Norgaard reached 7200m on summit day and turned back with stomach problems.

  Oxygen:
    C2 to smt to C2 by members and Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Dorje Khatri, 19/12/68, Lelep-9, Taplejung, Everest X5
    Mingma Gyabu Sherpa, 16/5/89, Lelep-7, Taplejung, Everest X2


expid: EVER11303
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: Geneva Spur-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Nobukazu Kuriki
sponsor: Team Kuriki Everest Expedition 2011
bcdate: 2011-09-07
smtdate: 2011-10-03
termdate: 2011-10-16
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to lost supplies
campsites: BC(07/09,5200m),C1(15/09,6000m),C2(29/09,6400m),xxx(03/10,7800m)
agency: Bochi Bochi Treks
routememo:
  Kuriki started his summit push from C2 at midnight of 11 Oct. He reached 7800m at 11 am of 12 Oct. He found that the backpack with his supplies was damaged and the food stuff all gone. He stayed there for about an hour, then descended to C2 at 4:05 pm and slept there. The next day 13 Oct went down to BC. Summit-push day weather was good.

  Ishii and Kadotani went up to C2 on 29 Sept.

  Note: Kuriki said while climbing from C2 he did not go along the normal climbing route around the Geneva Spur, but went straight keeping the Geneva Spur on his right side.


expid: PUMO11301
peakid: PUMO
year: 2011
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Iran
leaders: Masoud Aghabalaei
sponsor: LMI Azarkova Pumori Expedition 2011
approach: Lukla->Namche->Dingboche->Lobuche
bcdate: 2011-09-21
smtdate: 2011-10-08
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2011-10-10
campsites: BC(21/09,5320m),ABC(28/09,5780m),C1(06/10,6200m),C2(07/10,6560m),Smt(08/10)
agency: Adventure Extreme
routememo:
  Aghabalaei, Gharagozloo, Mashouf, Payvandi, Shaheb, Pasang Kaji, Pemba Rinji, Tendi and Ngima started from C2 at 1:30 am of 8 Oct. The team got to the top at 8:30 am and stayed on the summit about 30 minutes, then descended to C2 at 4 pm and spent the night there. Next day 9 Oct the team went down to BC. Weather was not good - cloudy and windy.

  Kaffash (team coach and manager) went up to ABC, then remained at BC.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Kaji
    Pemba Rinji
    Dendi
    Ngima Kanchha

accidents:
  Akbaridehbalaei had headache at ABC on 24 Sept; Rezaei suffered from headache and started vomiting and became weak at C2 on 7 Oct.


expid: PUMO11302
peakid: PUMO
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Israel
leaders: Boris Babaev
sponsor: Israelis to Pumori
bcdate: 2011-10-08
smtdate: 2011-10-15
termdate: 2011-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6950m due to encountering wide ice band at 6800m
campsites: BC(08/10,5330m),ABC(09/10,5780m),C1(10/10,6170m),C2(14/10,6400m),xxx(15/10,6950m)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  Ian Rybak (email) - 27 Dec 2012
   
  All heights are according to my GPS:
    08.10.2011 - Arrival to BC (5330m)
    09.10.2011 - Move from BC to ABC (5780m)
    10.10.2011 - Move from ABC to C1 (6170m)
    11.10.2011 - Back from C1 to BC
    13.10.2011 - Move from ABC to C1 (6170m)
    14.10.2011 - Move from C1 to C2 (6400m)
    15.10.2011 - Summit attempt (till 6950m) and back to C2
    16.10.2011 - Back from C2 to BC
    17.10.2011 - Departure from BC

  We didn't have any Sherpas with us above BC.
   
  All of us have climbed together to the height of 6950m and turned around because of lack of time and poor weather conditions. There was a wide band of ice at about 6800-6900m with no fixed ropes and we led 3-4 pitches through it with use of ice screws, but we have lost too much time negotiating this section and was above it at 15:10 in poor weather with low visibility, so we decided to descent.

  We have started from C2 at about 4:00-4:30 am, the weather was clear, a little windy.


expid: PUMO11303
peakid: PUMO
year: 2011
route1: SW Face
nation: France
leaders: Nicolas Brun
sponsor: Pumori Ski Expedition
countries: Netherlands
approach: Phaplu->Kharikhola->Lukla->Namche->Tengboche->Dingboche->Lobuche
bcdate: 2011-10-22
smtdate: 2011-10-27
termdate: 2011-10-31
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to difficulty in accessing the route due to deep snow
campsites: BC(22/10,5330m),xxx(27/10,5900m)
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 5330m (Kangri Shar glacier along the lake, very good place for BC)
  High pt at 5900m.

  Stopped at 5900m place for C1, [wanted] go down to west to push SW face. Not possible to go down, too much snow, too much steep, so came down to BC.


expid: MANA12313
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Sweden
leaders: Torbjorn Hallstrom
sponsor: Swedish Manaslu Expedition
approach: Via Samagaon from 6 Sept to 9 Sept
bcdate: 2012-09-09
smtdate: 2012-09-22
termdate: 2012-09-26
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to enough preparation for Everest and shocked by avalanche
campsites: BC(09/09,4700m),C1(12/09,5600m),C2(22/09,6400m),xxx(22/09,6400m)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  - On 12 of September Hallstrom went to C1 and back to BC.
  - On 18 of September, he went a second time at C1 for sleeping and acclimatization and went back after that to base camp.
  - On 21 of September he climbed for C1 and slept there.
  - The day after, 22nd of September he climbed up for C2 and slept here with Pemba Rita Sherpa and another Sherpa (Hallstrom cannot remember his name)
  - On 23rd, they were hit by the breath of the avalanche whilst having breakfast. All of them went back at BC the same day to wait for new instructions.

  Fixed rope:
    from BC to C1, 20% of the route was fixed rope.
    from C1 to C2, 70% was fixed rope
    and apparently no more after C3 (but obviously he didn't climb above C2)
  Hallstrom doesn't know whose Sherpas did put it and from which company.

  Oxygen:

  Was planned to be used from C4 for sleeping, then to summit and back to C4.  Hallstrom should have climbed with Pemba Rita Sherpa (6 times on Everest) the summit day.

  Permit:

  Hallstrom took a joint permit with Ersun Kurtulus (Swede from UK) and 5 other members (international), the latter not dealing with Rolwaling Excursions agency. 15 Sherpas from Rolwaling Excursions led by Tashi Sherpa had to manage the Chinese group (leader Sang Zhu), Ersun and Torbjorn, and to put up the altitude camps and fix the rope. After that 13 Sherpas especially took care of the Chinese, and two especially for Torbjorn (Pemba Rita Sherpa) and Ersun (Jit Bahadur Sherpa).

  Reasons for abandonment:

  Ascent on Manaslu was a preparation for Everest that Torbjorn always wanted to climb for fun hefore his 50th birthday!

  The avalanche made him decide that he no longer wanted to stay there (he captured a video inside the C2 early in the morning; the wind and noise lasted for 3 minutes), because he didn't feel good after the accident and was enough prepared for Everest.


expid: MANA12314
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Ecuador
leaders: Oswaldo Freire
sponsor: Somos Ecuador to Manaslu
bcdate: 2012-09-07
smtdate: 2012-09-30
smttime: 0710
termdate: 2012-10-02
campsites: BC(07/09,4830m),C1(10/09,5800m),C2(11/09,6480m),C3(16/09,6800m),C4(29/09,7410m),Smt(30/09)
accidents: Freire and Perez had throat infections, but antibiotics let them to continue their climb
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  All of the team's climbing was done by Freire, Esteban and Perez. Vallejo arrived at BC by helicopter very late on 24 September and never went higher.

  On 16 September, C3 site was reached and a tent pitched with all the gear required for their summit bid was left inside. Then they descended to BC and spent the 18th and 19th resting. On the 20th they moved back up to C1, but the next day they found that there was too much snow on the mountain, so they retreated to BC that day.  There was there when the huge avalanche came roaring down the mountain early on the 23rd.

  They went up again to C1 on the 25th and on the 26th to the site of C3. Nothing remained of the tent they had erected and the important gear stocked there for their climb to the top. They went back to BC that day.

  They moved up once more on the 28th from BC to C2 and from C2 to C4 on the 29th.  They took only their basic needs: just one tent, warm clothing and sleeping mats borrowed from other groups.

  The three climbers left C4 for the top at 2:30 am on 30 September. They were on the summit at 7:10 am and were down in BC at 9:00 am.

  Freire and Perez had suffered from throat infections, but antibiotics had enabled them to continue their climb.


expid: HIML11301
peakid: HIML
year: 2011
route1: W Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Scott Camps
sponsor: DCXP Himlung Expedition
countries: Netherlands, USA
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Rangdu Sherpa (sirdar)
    Densa Bhote
    Ang Kami Sherpa
    Damai Chhiri Sherpa
    Dawa Jangbu Sherpa
    Phurba Sherpa
    Nima Bhote


expid: CHOY93316
peakid: CHOY
year: 1993
route1: NW side
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Jae-Soo
approach: Lukla->Thami->Cho Oyu BC (Nepal side)->Nangpa La
bcdate: 1993-09-10
smtdate: 1993-09-18
smttime: 0800
termdate: 1993-09-19
campsites: ABC(10/09,5700m),C1(15/09,6200m),C2(16/09,7000m),C3(17/09,7600m),Smt(18/09)
agency: None
routememo:
  Kim left C3 at midnight of 17 Sept for the summit. He reached the summit at 8:00 am on 18 Sept, stayed on summit for 10 minutes, and returned to C3 at 5 pm. Next day 19 Sept he spent the night at C1, then went to Nangpa La and spent the night there. On 20 Sept he arrived at Namche.

  There was a Korean expedition on the mountain, Kim reported his summit time from the summit to Um Hong-Gil, but Um did not accept Kim's summit because he was not on the permit.


  Christine Pae (KAF) - May 2011

  "He [Kim Jae-Soo] did not get the permission of Cho Oyu in 1993, but at that time he was with Mr. Hong-Gil Um.

  He got the summit on Sep 20th, 1993 without permission and he announced his
  re-try it legally again with permission with press release.

  Maybe Ms. Hawley has not any record of this climbing since no record in
  permission, but her secretary Jiban knew the truth because Mr. Jae-Soo Kim
  had a interview with Jiban on his Cho Oyu climbing."


expid: AMAD11332
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Malta
leaders: Robert Gatt
sponsor: Malta Ama Dablam Expedition 2011
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2011-10-25
smtdate: 2011-11-01
termdate: 2011-11-03
campsites: BC(25/10,4600m),C1(28/10,5400m),C2(30/10,6000m),C3(31/10,6400m),Smt(01/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  One member and one Sherpa summited on 1 Nov. 

  Gatt and Dalmas went up to C2. They could not go up due to drunken Sherpa.


expid: AMAD11333
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Giambattista Gianola
sponsor: Italian Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2011-10-29
smtdate: 2011-11-09
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2011-11-11
campsites: BC(09/10,4600m),C1(01/11,5200m),C2(02/11,6400m),Smt(09/11)
agency: Prem Gurung (Himalayan Guides pmt)
routememo:
  The summit team left C2 at 4 am and got to the top at 11 am and stayed on the summit for 10 minutes.

  Sherpa:
    Ngata Sherpa, Lelep-9, Taplejung, 2/2/76 (19/10/2032)


expid: AMAD11335
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Pasang Lhamu Sherpa
sponsor: French-Nepali Women Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: France
approach: Lukla->Namche->Thami->Renja La->Gokyo->Pheriche
bcdate: 2011-11-16
smtdate: 2011-11-23
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2011-11-26
campsites: BC(16/11,4300m),C1(21/11,5700m),C2(22/11,6300m),Smt(23/11)
accidents: Two toes of Maxheim broken by rockfall at 5800m.
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  The summit team left C2 at 3 am on 23 Nov and got to the top at 12:30 pm, stayed on the summit about 20 minutes, then returned to C2 around 6 pm. Next day went down to BC.


expid: KOJI11201
peakid: KOJI
year: 2011
route1: SE Face (E Smt)
nation: Japan
leaders: Tetsuji Otsue
sponsor: Japanese Kojichuwa Chuli Expedition 2011
approach: See route notes
bcdate: 2011-06-25
smtdate: 2011-07-03
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2011-07-04
othersmts: Climbed Kojichuwa Chuli East (6159m) and Karmarong (6022m)
campsites: BC(25/06,4850m),HC(02/07,5400m),E Smt(03/07,6159m)
agency: Bochi Bochi Treks
routememo:
  Approach: Flight to Jumla, Chere, Danfe Bhajyang, Burme, Bhulbhule, Gamgadi, Manggri, Mugu Khola, Mugu, Takyachur, Khaptan Chaur, Namjala, Khaptan Chaur, Pukano Mugu, Koji Khola.

  Otsue led a team of three climbers together with Man Bahadur, Bibas and Phurpu to Kojichuwa Chuli East (6159m) SE Face (Nepal-Tibet border peak). The team left high camp at 5:30 am on 3 July and got to the top at 1:30 pm. They stayed on the summit for 20 minutes and returned to high camp at 5 pm. Next day 4 July the team went down to BC. The summit day weather on the way up was cloudy, but the summit was clear.

  Next the team climbed Karmarong (6022m) North Face (Nepal-Tibet border peak). The team used the same BC for both peaks. The expedition team pitched its high camp at 5450m on 9 July. Otsue, Ibe, Kato, Man Bahadur, Bibas and Phurpu left high camp at 8:10 am on 10 July. The team got to the summit at 3:30 pm and stayed on the summit for 10 minutes. They got back to high camp at 5:30 pm. Next day 11 July all went down to BC. Otsue said that the top portion of the peak has a rock face about 100m of 40-40 degrees. The weather on the summit day was cloudy all the way up and down.

  The team had a permit for Kojichuwa Chuli, but it did not go for it due to bad weather.

  Hired:
    Man Bahadur Gurung, 27/4/64, Sitalpati, Makalu
    Bibas Gurung, 6/6/88 (24/2/2045), Hatiya-7
    Phurpu Bhote, 7/5/76 (25/1/2033), Hatiya-1


expid: EVER12179
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Juan Jose Polo Carbayo
sponsor: Spanish Everest Expedition
smtdate: 2012-05-20
campsites: BC,ABC,C1,C2,C3,Smt(20/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Polo and Nima Dorje summited. Polo then took off oxygen mask and gloves to celebrate on the summit and refused to descend despite pleas from Nima Dorje. Then Nima Dorje started down alone and Polo followed later before collapsing and dying at 8500m.

  Sherpa:
    Nima Dorje (Boka Lama) Sherpa


expid: EVER12181
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Bangladesh
leaders: Mohammad Abdul Mohit
sponsor: Bangladeshi Everest Expedition 2012
approach: Lukla->Namche->Tengboche->Pheriche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2012-04-15
smtdate: 2012-05-19
campsites: BC(15/04,5300m),C1(26/04,5900m),C2(27/04,6200m),C3(16/05,7300m),C4(17/05,7900m),Smt(19/05)
agency: World Summit Explorer
routememo:
  The Bangladeshi [and Man Bahadur Khatri] expedition team started its summit push from C4 at 9 pm on 18 May. The team got to the top at 11:30 am on 19 May. They stayed on summit for about one hour and returned C4 at about 7 pm where they spent the night. Next day 20 May the team went down to C2, slept there. They went down to BC on 22 May. Summit day weather was windy.

  Oxygen:
    Members from C3 to smt to C3
    Sherpas from C4 to smt to C4

  Sherpas:
    Mingma Gyalje, 14/4/85, Beding


expid: EVER12182
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Man Bahadur Khatri
bcdate: 2012-04-15
smtdate: 2012-05-19
smttime: 1130
campsites: BC(15/04,5300m),C1(26/04,5900m),C2(27/04,6200m),C3(16/05,7300m),C4(17/05,7900m),Smt(19/05)
agency: World Summit Explorer
routememo:
  The Bangladeshi [and Man Bahadur Khatri] expedition team started its summit push from C4 at 9 pm on 18 May. The team got to the top at 11:30 am on 19 May. They stayed on summit for about one hour and returned C4 at about 7 pm where they spent the night. Next day 20 May the team went down to C2, slept there. They went down to BC on 22 May. Summit day weather was windy.

  Oxygen:
    Members from C3 to smt to C3
    Sherpas from C4 to smt to C4

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Tshering, 1983, Namche
    Pemba, 15/10/2038, Lamabagar-1


expid: EVER12183
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Jeff Reynolds
sponsor: S2 Mountaineering Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2012-04-06
smtdate: 2012-05-19
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2012-05-25
campsites: BC(06/04,5330m),C1(14/04,6100m),C2(15/04,6550m),C3(01/05,7160m),C4(18/05,7950m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Himalayan Windhorse Adventure
routememo:
  Burton, Colton, Cassidy, Reynolds, Da Chhiri, Nima Gyalzen and Damai Chhiri started their summit bid in two groups. First groups at 7:45 pm and second at 8:50 am on 18 May. Both groups reached to the top from 8:25 to 9:15 am on 19 May. They stayed on summit for about 10 minutes, then descended to C4 where they reached at 4:30 pm and 7 pm. Next day 20 May they spent night at C3. On 21 May the group went down to C2 and on 22 May to BC.

  According to Tom Burton, Da Chhiri was carrying O2 tanks and arrived at the summit before the rest of the group (est. 8:00).

  Sherpas:
    Damai Chhiri, (5/2/2032) 19/5/75, Jubing-9
    Nima Gyalzen, Jubing-9
    Da Chhiri, Thami


expid: MAKA12104
peakid: MAKA
year: 2012
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Rao Jian-Feng
sponsor: Chinese Makalu Expedition
bcdate: 2012-04-30
smtdate: 2012-05-10
smttime: 1910
termdate: 2012-05-13
campsites: BC(30/04,4800m),ABC(01/05,5600m),C2(04/05,6500m),C3(06/05,7400m),C4(07/11,7600m),Smt(10/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Rao, Lhakpa, Mingma, Pechhumbe and a Chinese woman [Luo Jing] left C4 and 3:40 am on 10 May. The team reached the summit at 7:10 pm, stayed on the summit for about 10 minutes, then returned to C4 at 3 am on 11 May and slept there. Next day 12 May they went down to ABC. On 13 May Rao went to Lhotse BC by helicopter.

  Oxygen: 
    Up: almost reaching C3 (7200m) began to use oxygen just for climbing; 
        at C4 began to use oxygen also for sleeping
    Down: used oxygen until reached C2


expid: LHOT12126
peakid: LHOT
year: 2012
route1: W Face
nation: China
leaders: Yang Chun-Feng
sponsor: Chinese Lhotse Expedition
bcdate: 2012-04-27
smtdate: 2012-05-19
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2012-05-21
campsites: BC(27/04,5350m),C2(15/05,6500m),C3(17/05,7200m),C4(18/05,7800m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Oxygen: 
    Up: from C3 begin to use oxygen for climbing and for sleeping;
    Down: used oxygen until reached C2

  Yang, Rao, Sange and Mingma left C4 at 10 pm on 18 May. Yang and Sange reached summit at 8 am on 19 May. Rao and Mingma reached to the top at 9 am. All climbers stayed on summit for about 10 minutes. Yang and Mingma returned C4 at 10 am, they had rest for a while and went down to C2. Rao and Mingma came down to C2 about 3 hours later. They waited for other Chinese team coming down from Everest. One member of the Everest team died while descending. All of them went down to BC and same day to Kathmandu by helicopter. The summit day was windy.


expid: ANN112113
peakid: ANN1
year: 2012
route1: N Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Chhang Dawa Sherpa
smtdate: 2012-04-20
smttime: 0800
campsites: Smt(20/04)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Note: Several photos and comments have surfaced that give doubts to the status of all the summiters on 20 April 2012 for Annapurna I.

  One set of photos show the Indian team of Debasish Biswas and Basanta Singha Roy standing 50-60m below the top of the summit ridge with a climber dressed in red climbing towards the summit ridge high in the background.

  Another set of photos show the Chinese team of Yang Chun-Feng and Rao Jian-Feng (dressed in red) near the crest of the summit ridge. One Chinese and two Sherpas are shown on top of the crest and one Chinese and one Sherpa are shown as stopping below the crest. It also appears that the Chinese team did not proceed along the crest of the summit ridge to the true summit that is 20-50m further away in an upwardly horizontal direction.

  The widow of Rao states that her husband told her that Rao summited, but not Yang. Both Rao and Yao were killed in June 2013 when the base camp at Nanga Parbat was attacked by terrorists.

  Other comments put the American team of Cleo Weidlich and her Sherpa either above or below the Indian team, but not at the summit ridge.

  For the above reasons, these ascents are being marked as "disputed."


  Billi Bierling - 25 March 2105

  Chang Dawa Sherpa told Billi Bierling that Chang Dawa, Kami Sherpa, Jian-Feng Rao and Pecchumbe Sherpa reached the true summit, while all others stopped further down the mountain. Chang Dawa had photos of them on the true summit.


expid: EVER12187
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Sita Kumari Rai
sponsor: Light of World Peace Everest Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Dingboche->Island Peak->Pangboche->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2012-04-19
smtdate: 2012-05-01
termdate: 2012-05-11
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to health problems
othersmts: Attempted Island Peak
campsites: BC(19/04,5300m),C1(01/05,6200m),xxx
accidents: Chest infection at BC
agency: Bochi Bochi Treks
routememo:
  Sita Rai, a Nepali woman, hopes to perform sirsasan, a type of head-stand yoga, on the top of Everest.


  Sita Rai (by phone) - 16 May 2012

  Climb abandoned on 11 May due to chest infection of Rai.

  Left BC on 11 May; members at end: 1;  guides: 2

  Oxygen: Rai used at BC for recovering from infection.
  Other peaks: the team attempted on Island Peak, but no summit on 13 April.

  During acclimatization the team went up to 6200m (as told by her guide). There was avalanche on that day so the team returned BC. Then waited for weather to get clear during that period she got chest infection.


  Sharad (email) - 17 March 2013

  a) Sita just reached the C1.
  b) Sita didn't climb.
  c) Due to health condition she stopped climbing.
  d) She had Sherpa support, Ramesh Gurung & Bishnu were the Sherpas.


expid: AMAD11338
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Andrew Stokes-Rees
countries: Israel, Sweden, USA
approach: Jiri->Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2011-11-09
smtdate: 2011-11-12
termdate: 2011-11-15
campsites: BC(09/11,4600m),C1(10/11,5700m),C2(11/11,6100m),Smt(12-13/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Summit on 12 November by Dee, Gal and Nunn
  Summit on 13 November by Goodill, Rees, Strom and Yip

  Sherpas:
    Mingma Dukpa Sherpa, Yaphu-9
    Then Dorjee Sherpa, Khumjung-7
    Pasang Lama, Chepuwa-1
    Pasang Sherpa, Lelep-9


expid: AMAD11336
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Vic Saunders
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Ama Dablam Expedition 2011
countries: Australia, S Africa, USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Mingbo Lodge
bcdate: 2011-10-23
smtdate: 2011-10-30
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2011-11-01
campsites: BC(23/10),IC(26/10,5300m),C1(28/10,5700m),C2(29/10,6300m),Smt(30/10)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  The team left the camp at about 8:00 hrs, reaching the summit between 12:30 and 13:30. Fine, cold weather through out the day.

  Mark Shimizu and Gyelu Sherpa reached a high point of 6000m. Mark had a bad chest infection, possibly pneumonia.


expid: BARU11306
peakid: BARU
year: 2011
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Iran
leaders: Seyed Vaseh Sayed Mousavi
bcdate: 2011-10-24
smtdate: 2011-10-28
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2011-10-30
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak
campsites: BC(24/10,5400m),C1(27/10,6100m),C2(27/10,6440m),Smt(28/10)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  The team first climbed Mera Peak for better acclimatization.

  They arrived 24 Oct 2011 to BC of Baruntse. At 9 am on 27 Oct left BC to C1 and reached C1 12:30; 1 hour rest and again climbed to C2, reached C2 at 4 pm and overnighted there (in C2). 2 am on 28 Oct started summit push and after 7 hours, at 9 am all were on top: 2 members and 2 Sherpas in 24-hours alpine style.

  The same day (28 Oct) they descended to BC and 2 days later on 30 Oct they left BC to Lukla from Amphu Laptsa pass.

  They had a doctor Mr. Sina (given) Nedaii Ahmadi (surname) who climbed Mera Peak with them before the Baruntse expedition.


expid: PUTH11301
peakid: PUTH
year: 2011
route1: NE Face
nation: Belgium
leaders: Davy Renaat Aerts
ascent1: 45th
smtdate: 2011-10-29
campsites: Smt(29/10)
routememo:
  Jan De Lint (email) - 5 Dec 2012

  I remember a small Belgian expedition (2 members), one member with one
  Sherpa summited. Indeed on the same day [29 Oct].

  Note: Ministry credits both members as summiting, as well as web reports.


expid: AMAD11358
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Dougal Tavener
sponsor: Dream Guides Ama Dablam Expedition 2011 (Group 2)
countries: Australia
termnote: Abandoned due to fatal fall
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  The trip was simply bloody great. The team of Mike, Len, David, Kevin, Gavin, Roger, Dorje and myself really worked. From the word go I could sense that this was going to be a good one and it was....everyday brought something fresh, something a wee bit different.

  Then mid-November our man Dougal comes in with the team of superstars for Ama Dablam round 2.

  Gamble was a member of the second Dream Guides group led by Dougal Tavener.


expid: AMAD11347
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Edgard Oberson
bcdate: 2011-10-10
smtdate: 2011-10-18
smttime: 0820
termdate: 2011-10-20
campsites: BC(10/10,4700m),C1(13/10,5800m),C2(17/10,6050m),Smt(18/10)
accidents: None
agency: Yatri Trekking
routememo:
  Edgard Oberson (email) - 26 Nov 2012

  BC  10/10  4700m
  C1  13/10  5800m
  C2  17/10  6050m
  Smt 18/10 at 8:20 am by Edgar Oberson, Laurent Ischi and Tulsi Gurung.

  Team left C3 at 3 am. The weather was clear and cold. Straightforward climb. They spent about 20 min on the summit and descended all the way to BC, where they arrived at 11:30 pm.

  Left BC:           20/10 
  Return Kathmandu:  23/10
  Depart Kathmandu:  23/10
  Hotel:             Manaslu for a few hours

  Oxygen: not taken, not used

  Sherpas: Gurung, Tul Singh (Tulsi), Laprak-9, Gorkha, 24/09/1983

  No ropes fixed


expid: AMAD11341
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Ueli Steck
bcdate: 2011-10-15
smtdate: 2011-10-19
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2011-10-22
campsites: BC(15/10,4700m),C1(17/10,5800m),C2(18/10,6350m),Smt(19/10)
agency: Royal Orchid Treks
routememo:
  BC  15/10  4700m
  C1  17/10  5800m
  C3  18/10  6350m
  Smt 19/10  at 10 am by Nicole and Ueli Steck.

  Weather was good on summit day. Straightforward climb. They descended to C1, where they stayed the night. Next day to BC.

  Oxygen: not taken, not used
  No Sherpas, no ropes fixed


expid: CHAK11301
peakid: CHAK
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge?
nation: Bulgaria
leaders: Gueorgui Gueorguiev
sponsor: First Environmental Chako Expedition 2011
ascent1: 2nd
smtdate: 2011-10-19
campsites: Smt(19/10)
agency: First Environmental Trekking
routememo:
  Sofia News Agency

  Bulgarian climber Nikolay Proev has passed away in Nepal, the Bulgarian Foreign Ministry has informed.

  The fatal incident which led to Proev's death took place on October 20. Together with six other Bulgarians, Proev was climbing Mt. Chako (6704m).

  There have been no accounts of other injured climbers.

  Bulgaria's embassy in New Delhi expects to establish a phone connection with the six Bulgarian climbers within 36 hours, the Dnevnik daily reports.

  Bulgaria's Foreign Affairs Ministry has started organizing the transportation of Proev's body to his home country.


expid: KANG12105
peakid: KANG
year: 2012
route1: SW Face
nation: Taiwan
leaders: Lee Hsiao-Shih
sponsor: Taiwanese Kangchenjunga 2011
bcdate: 2012-04-14
smtdate: 2012-05-19
termdate: 2012-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 8200m due to lack of fixed rope
campsites: BC(14/04,5500m),C1(5900m),C2(6200m),C3(7200m),C4(18/04,7600m),xxx(19/05,8200m)
agency: Peak XV Treks
routememo:
  Email from Lee Ching-Ching (wife of Lee Hsiao-Shih) - 13 Nov 2012

  My Sherpa said I arrived at 8200 meters. My watch did not work, so based on Sherpa's only.

  It was seven in the morning when I arrived at 8200 meters. There was no rope to ensure safety. We can not continue to move if no ensure rope.

  I do not know why this error happens. Peak XV's charge, Prem hired four Sherpa for Kanchenjunga expedition. They are Mr. Sonam, Mr. Ngada, Mr. Pasang and Mr. Pemba.  And he said Pasang summitted three times, Ngada summitted twice. Before departure, Pasang told Sonam to prepare 600m rope, but Sonam carried 800m. The facts proved that it needed 1200m.

  KBC is 5500m. I arrived April 14. 1 camp is 5900m, 2 camp 6200m, 3 camp 7200m, 4 camp 7600m.

  I left KBC on May 16 and arrived 1 camp at 2 pm. Take a rest. We went to 2 camp.  May 17 I depart from 2 camp and used oxygen at 7000m. May 18 7 pm we left 4 camp and May 19 7 am arrived 8200m. We argued a few time. I still want to go without ensure rope. Sonam would not let me off the team. We came back. I arrived 4 camp at 10 am and continued to go to 3 camp. I arrived 3 camp on 19 May evening then rest. May 20 we arrived KBC.


expid: AMAD11348
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Adrian Ballinger
sponsor: Alpenglow Ama Dablam Expedition 2011
countries: Spain, Switzerland, USA
bcdate: 2011-10-30
smtdate: 2011-11-11
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2011-11-13
campsites: BC(30/10,4700m),C1(02/11,6000m),C2(10/11,6300m),Smt(11,13/11)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  BC  30/10  4700m
  C1  02/11  6000m
  C3  10/11  6300m
  Smt 11/11  at 8:30-9:30 am by Ballinger, Engle, Dubon, Piris, Lubliner, Warren,
             Phurba Tashi, Tashi Tshering, Pasang Nima, Dorje Sonam, Lhakpa Nuru, 
  Smt 13/11  at 9 am by Brad Johnson, Blues Voisard, Dorje Sonam (again).

  Team left C3 at 5 am. The weather was clear and cold. Straightforward climb. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit and some descended to C1 and the others all the way to BC.

  Ewan Ritchie and Marcel Bach reached C1 on 2 Nov.

  Kurt Hefti reached C2 on 4 Nov.

  Brad Johnson and Blues Voisard summited between 8:30 and 9:30 am on 13 Nov along with 2 Sherpas, Dorje Sonam (again) and Gyalzen Dorje [according to Ministry list].


expid: PUMO11305
peakid: PUMO
year: 2011
route1: S Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Tim Rippel
sponsor: Peak Freaks Pumori Expedition 2011
countries: Australia, Ecuador, India, Netherlands, Sweden, Switzerland, UK, USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2011-10-13
smtdate: 2011-10-26
termdate: 2011-10-27
termnote: Abandoned due to dangerous rock fall
othersmts: Summited Lobuche East (Oct 18)
campsites: BC(13/10,5250m),ABC(21/10,5700m),C1(25/10,6100m),xxx(26/10,6250m)
agency: Senge Treks & Expeditions
routememo:
  Training climb for Spring 2012 Everest expedition.

  Took over Russian rope (200m) and refixed above C1 600m more.

  Abandoned at 6250m due to bad condition and client fitnes.

  Sherpas:
    Jangbu, Khotang, 18/6/65
    Tashi Thundu, Khumjung, 10/04/1985
    Palden Namgye, Phortse, 20/9/72


expid: PUMO11306
peakid: PUMO
year: 2011
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Pavel Cingr
sponsor: Czech Pumori Expedition 2011
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->Pumori BC
smtdate: 2011-10-19
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2011-10-22
campsites: BC,C1(17/10),C2(18/10),Smt(19/10)
agency: Everest Adventure
routememo:
  Date of departure from Kathmandu to Lukla: 6.10.2011
  Approach: Monjo-Namche Bazar-Deboche-Pheriche-Lobuche-BC Pumori 
  Date of arrival too BC and its altitude:
  Date of first time use/sleep at C1: 17.10.2011
  Date of first time use/sleep at C2: 18.10.2011
  Summit date and time: 19.10.2011; started from C2 at 03:30 
  Name of members who summited: Pavel Cingr, Pavel Horky
  How long did the summiters spent time on summit: from 10:00 till 10:30
  Back to high camp: to C2 19.10.2011 at 14:00, to BC 20:10 at 17:00
  Date of leaving BC for Kathmandu: 22.10.2011
  Date of arrival to Kathmandu: 25.10.2011


expid: AMAD11324
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Herbert Rainer
sponsor: Amical Alpin Ama Dablam Expedition 2011
countries: Austria, Liechtenstein
bcdate: 2011-10-14
smtdate: 2011-10-25
smttime: 0910
termdate: 2011-10-30
campsites: BC(14/10,4700m),C1(19/10,5600m),C2(24/10,6000m),C3(24/10,630m),Smt(25/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Summit team left C3 at 6 am. Weather was sunny with a cold wind. They spent about an hour on the summit (average) and descended to C3, where they arrived at 1:30 pm and Roessner, Mueller, Wohlwend and Seidel spent the night. Baeck, Brantner, Rainer and Kirchmair descended to C1, where they arrived at 5 pm.

  Carsten and Wiltrud Schepp stayed the night at C2 on 24 Oct. The following day they reached 6500m, however, as they were very slow they turned back and descended to C2, where they spent another night.

  Hirzel reached about 5900m on 24 Oct; he turned back as he was feeling exhausted.


expid: AMAD11364
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Richard Bolt
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Ama Dablam Expedition 2011
countries: Germany
bcdate: 2011-10-06
smtdate: 2011-10-18
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2011-10-20
campsites: BC(06/10,4500m),C1(10/10,5810m),C2(17/10,6300m),Smt(18/10)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  BC  06/10  4550m
  C1  10/10  5810m	
  C2   ---    ---
  C3  17/10  6300m	
  Smt 18/10 at 12 noon by Bolt, Kuhn, Meile, Urs von Daeniken, Lafrenz, 
            Pemba Norbu Sherpa, Mingma Gyalbu Sherpa, Ram Gurung.

  Summit team left C2 at 5 am together with the Sherpas. The Sherpas were still fixing the ropes to the summit. The weather was calm and sunny and warm. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit and apart from Urs von Daeniken, who spent the night at C1, they descended all the way to BC.

  Albert von Daeniken, Heim and Zabold reached C1 on 10 Oct. All three climbers had health problems and had no chance to go for the summit.

  Fixed all rope between C2 and the summit.


expid: AMAD11346
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Jonathan Gupta
bcdate: 2011-11-15
smtdate: 2011-11-17
smttime: 1440
termdate: 2011-11-19
campsites: BC(16/11,4600m),C1(16/11,5850m),Smt(17/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Jon Gupta (email) - 21-22 Nov 2012

  Firstly 2011: I don't have the dates of the top of my head, I will have to have a think and get back to you. I went from BC -> C1, then C1 -> Summit -> C2.9, then to BC.

  16th Nov = Basecamp -> Camp 1
  17th Nov = Camp 1 -> Summit -> Camp 3
  18th Nov = Camp 3 -> Basecamp


expid: PUTH11302
peakid: PUTH
year: 2011
route1: NE Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Herbert Wolf
sponsor: Amical Alpin Putha Hiunchuli Expedition 2011
ascent1: 43rd
countries: Austria, Italy, Netherlands
approach: Ktm->Nepalgunj->Surkhet->Juphal->Dunai->Tarakot->Kakkot
bcdate: 2011-10-10
smtdate: 2011-10-20
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2011-10-24
campsites: BC(10/10,4940m),C1(14/10,5500m),C2(18/10,6200m),C3(19/10,6560m),Smt(20/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  10/10  4940m
  C1  14/10  5500m
  C2  18/10  6100m
  C3  19/10  6560m
  Smt 20/10  by Bayr, Helmut Elbl, Huber, Koenig, Rink, Zigliotto, Wolf, 
             Pemba Jangbu and Pemba Nuru at 9:30 am. 

  Summit team and Nestler left C3 at 2 am. It was cold and windy. The reason they started so early was the fact that a bad weather front was forecast to move in at midday. The team had set a return time at 10 am. Nestler reached 7150m at around 10 am and decided to turn back as the weather worsened. The others carried on and reached the summit at 9:30 am. They spent about 10 minutes on the summit in clouds and descended to C1, where they arrived at 5:30 pm.

  Hamm reached C3 on 19 Oct. He decided not to join the summit team as he had a bad night and was not feeling very well.

  Scheurer, Ijnsen and Toonen reached C2 on 18 Oct. They did not carry on due to exhaustion.

  Brigitte Eibl reached 5600m on 15 Oct. She abandoned her expedition due to bronchitis.


expid: PUTH11303
peakid: PUTH
year: 2011
route1: NE Face
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Jan De Lint
sponsor: All Third Age Himalayan Expedition 2011
ascent1: 46th
countries: France
bcdate: 2011-10-21
smtdate: 2011-10-29
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2011-11-02
campsites: BC(21/10,4900m),C1(23/10,5400m),C2(24/10,6000m),C3(28/10,6600m),Smt(29/10)
accidents: Annie Rivier severe frostbite on hands and nose
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  Arrival BC (4900m) 21 October 2011
  C1 (5400m) 23 October 2011 1st night, 26 October 2nd night
  C2 (6000m) 24 October 2011, 27 October 1st night
  C3 (6600m) 28 October 2011 1st night
  Summit (7250m) 29 October 2011
  Departure BC 2 November 2011

  Our HA Sherpas have been active above BC, carrying loads, installation of all three camps:

    Ang Gyaltzen Sherpa (Sirdar)
    Norbu Tamang
    Fur Sona Sherpa
    Chongba Sherpa

  Team departed high camp at 1:30 am, good weather, but very low temperatures and a lot of wind. All 4 members reached 7100m, the beginning of the summit ridge. Annie Rivier collapsed with frozen hands and nose at 06:00 in the morning. Jan de Lint, Denise Pianta, Ang Gyaltzen Sherpa and Norbu Tamang brought her down to C1. She could walk herself. Jan de Lint and Ang Gyaltzen Sherpa continued with her to BC, and arrived at 06:00 in the evening.

  Daniel Burnat and Chongba Sherpa summited at 08:00 and joined the others who were on their way down with Annie Rivier.

  On the way down with Annie Rivier her hands and nose appeared to be seriously frozen. With the satellite telephone helicopter assistance was requested. A Fish Tail helicopter landed next day (30 October) at 10:20 am in BC and brought Annie Rivier (after she spent a bad night in BC) to hospital in Kathmandu. Hands and nose could be saved "in extremis."

  The average age of the members was 67 years. Would have been nice to see all
  these oldsters together on the summit, but it is also nice to know that Annie Rivier can use her hands again and still has a nose!


expid: AMAD11344
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Ignaz Gruber
bcdate: 2011-10-11
smtdate: 2011-10-20
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2011-10-22
campsites: BC(11/10,4700m),C1(17/10,5600m),C2(18/10,6000m),C3(19/10,6300m),Smt(20/10)
routememo:
  BC  11/10  4700m
  C1  17/10  5600m
  C2  18/10  6000m
  C3  19/10  6300m
  Smt 20/10  Gruber, Phurba Sherpa at 8:30 am.

  Phurba and Gruber left C3 at 5 am. After a very windy night, it had stopped at 5 am and the weather was clear, but cold. Straightforward climb. 

  They descended to to BC where they arrived at 8 pm. 

  Ebner and Huber reached C1 on 18 Oct. Neither of them could sleep well and they decided to descend to BC and abandon their summit attempt.


expid: AMAD11345
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Tatsuo Matsumoto
countries: Brazil
bcdate: 2011-11-03
smtdate: 2011-11-07
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2011-11-09
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East and Island Peak
campsites: BC(03/11,4600m),C1(04/11,5600m),C2(05/11,6000m),C3(06/11,6325m),Smt(07/11)
agency: Adventure Extreme
routememo:
  Tatsuo Matsumoto (email) - 27 Nov 2012

  03/11/11 - BC (4600m)
  04/11/11 - BC -> C1 (5600m)
  05/11/11 - C1 -> C2 (6000m)
  06/11/11 - C2 -> C3 (6325m)
  07/11/11 - C3 -> Summit (departure 6:00 am, summit at 11:00 Matsumoto and 11:30
                   (AM) Antonio Carlos; back to C2
  08/11/11 - C2 -> BC
   
  On the same expedition, we summited Lobuche East and Island Peak:
   
    Lobuche East, summited on 29 Oct 2011, 10 am
    Island Peak, summited on 1 Nov 2011, 8 am


expid: CHOY11331
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Craig John
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Cho Oyu Expedition 2011
countries: Australia, Austria, Canada, Germany, Singapore
bcdate: 2011-08-31
smtdate: 2011-09-19
termdate: 2011-10-01
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to bad weather and deep snow
campsites: BC(31/08,4900m),IC(31/08),ABC(01/09,5700m),C1(06/09,6400m),C2(19,29/09,7100m),xxx
agency: Beyul Adventure
routememo:
   
  After the big snowstorm [Sept 25-27], we had a number of members depart on Sept 27 from both teams due to the bad conditions on the mountain and commitments back home (unable to wait for the conditions to improve): 
   
  Don Larson departed early from Shishapangma (high point was C2).
   
  Cho Oyu members departing early (high point was C2):
   
    Craig John
    Daniel Khouri
    Caroline Meyer
    Steven Meyer
    Shawn Peet
    Carlton Swan
    Marcus Bridle
    Lisa Amatangel
    Walter Laserer
    Heidi Sand
    Alois Feichtinger
   
  After the 11 left Cho Oyu on the 28th, 3 of the team Cho Oyu members elected to stay longer to try to climb:
   
    Ping Huang
    Kumaran Rasappan
    Max Bunce
   
  They went to C2 on Sept 29 and tried to go to C3 on Sept 30, but still too much snow, so they pulled the plug and descended to ABC. Departed next day (Oct 1).


expid: CHOY11328
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Mike Hamill
countries: Canada
bcdate: 2011-10-08
smtdate: 2011-10-12
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2011-10-14
othersmts: Climbed Xixabangma
campsites: ABC(08/10,5700m),C1(10/10,6400m),C2(11/10,7100m),Smt(12/10)
agency: Beyul Adventure
routememo:
  Eric Simonsom (email) - 22 Nov 2012

  Hamill and Shishapangma team summit bid schedule:
   
  Sep 29  Camp 1
  Sep 30  Camp 1
  Oct 1   Camp 2
  Oct 2   Camp 2
  Oct 3   Camp 3
  Oct 4   Summit (Central Peak) and back to C3
  Oct 5   Base Camp
  Oct 6   Depart
  Oct 7   Sherpas and members to Zhangmu, Mike Hamill, Al Hancock, Vanessa 
            O'Brien to Tingri.
  Oct 8   Sherpas and members to Kathmandu, Mike Al and Vanessa to Cho Oyu ABC
  Oct 9   ABC
  Oct 10  Camp 1
  Oct 11  Camp 2
  Oct 12  Summit and back to ABC
  Oct 13  Pack up
  Oct 14  Depart
  Oct 15  Kathmandu
   
  Oxygen: all of the western climbers used oxygen from high camp on both Cho Oyu 
          and Shishapangma
  Camps:  the normal camps on Shishapangma and Cho Oyu were used.


  From IMG web site:

  Congrats to IMG Leader Mike Hamill, Vanessa, Al, Danuru, and Karma Rita for a successful Cho Oyu climb. They are the last team on the hill, literally, as all other expeditions have now departed the mountain. Mike said the climbers were super strong and acclimatized after previously climbing Shishapangma, and they decided to start from Camp 2, since the weather was looking good. In fact, Mike said the conditions were excellent, the best of any of his five Cho Oyu summits. They left Camp 2 at about 1 am and reached the top a little before 8 am, and were back to Camp 2 by 10 am, which is a really fast time. After brewing up at Camp 2 and having a good rest, they continued their descent, and have now made it all the way down to ABC! On the way down the group managed to get all the Camp 2 gear down to Camp 1.


expid: PUTH11305
peakid: PUTH
year: 2011
route1: NE Face
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Marigje Braat
sponsor: Dutch Putha Hiunchuli Expedition 2011
ascent1: 42nd
smtdate: 2011-10-11
smttime: 1045
campsites: Smt(11/10)
agency: Kailash Himalayan Treks
routememo:
  Sherpas:
    Kaji Sherpa, Khijiphalate-9, Okhaldhunga, 42 yrs old (2027-09-05)  
    Da Ngima Sherpa, Khijiphalate-7, Okhaldhunga, 41 yrs old (2028-11-09)


expid: THUL11301
peakid: THUL
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: Russia
leaders: Oleg Khvostenko
sponsor: Russian Thulagi Expedition 2011
bcdate: 2011-09-17
smtdate: 2011-09-30
termdate: 2011-10-03
termnote: Abandoned at 5950m due to fatal avalanche
campsites: BC(17/09,3800m),C1(23/09,4600m),C2(28/09,5200m),C3(29/09,5900m),xxx(30/09,5950m)
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
routememo:
  Katya Goryshina of Royal Mt. Trekking (email) - 27 Nov 2012

  The team climbed the North-West side of the mountain. They reached
    BC - 17 Sept (3800m)
    C1 - 23 Sept (4600m)
    C2 - 28 Sept (5200m)
    C3 - 29 Sept (5900m)

  30 Sept they reached the high point at 5950m at 09:30 when Sergey Cherezov died in avalanche. The group was traversing the slope without using any ropes, Sergey was in the middle when the accident happened. His body was found about 500m down the slope. Other members of the group decided to terminate the expedition due to their friend death. The body was transported to Ktm by helicopter. 

  There was no climbing Sherpas with them. They didn't use any oxygen. 

  The team left BC on 3 Oct.


expid: KYAS11301
peakid: KYAS
year: 2011
nation: France
leaders: Mathieu Detrie
sponsor: French Kyashar Peak Expedition 2011
approach: Lukla->Kyashar BC
smtdate: 2011-10-25
termnote: Abandoned at 6350m due to illness of one member
campsites: BC(5150m),Biv1(23/10),Biv2(24/10),Biv3(25/10,6350m),xxx
accidents: Jerome Para intestinal illness
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Google translation of French web site story:

  Objective Kyashar 6770m. 

  We arrived, Detrie Mathieu, Pierre Labbre and myself, flew to Lukla, the bottom of Khumbu, October 1. Then four days of walking in the direction of Kyashar, 6770m, we have seen that photo yet. This is a beautiful pyramid located just in front of Mera Peak, the summit of 6000m experienced trekkers. It installs the base camp at the foot of the mountain at 4300m and luckily right next to a village, which will prove decisive for subsequent charging of PCs that allows us to watch movies during the long days of waiting. 

  One day after arriving in BC, I get sick and am not really good for a week. 

  After a few days we are ready to begin the acclimatization, then share it to Kusum Kanguru, 6400m, all three with Chandra, our Nepalese guide. It is trekking guide but would like to become a mountain guide, it seems interesting to come with us, it will not be disappointed!

  Left a little too late, floundering in the soft snow to 5500m altitude: it is very hot right now and not refrozen nya almost overnight. In addition, we thought to open a small path that leads to an easy and neck to reach the end of the normal route. It was trying too hard to trust the Nepalese map at 1/100, 000th: Pass actually leads to a steep gap topped several hundred meters of steep rocks, a small big wall actually ... Not spiteful, Chandra says he learned a lot while walking in the midst of crevasses. We acclimated a bit: two nights at 5500m. 

  Back to CB, we see many groups go down again victorious Mera peak. Some participants did not really air sports are very old, so we said we will be more likely here than Kusum. We made the summit in three days in the normal way (walk) which allows us to sleep at almost 6000m of climbing and 6470m. From the top the views are stunning: it is the first time for Peter and me that we see all these peaks gigantic Kanchenjunga, Makalu, Lhotse, Everest, Nuptse, Cho Oyu. The air is clear. 

  The only problem is that I am still sick and sometimes feverish. I do not feel in great shape.
   
  Back to CB few days to rest and then prepare business. 

  On October 23, we left for the foot of the face. Chandra is helping us set up businesses: they will be about 20kg per person, including food and gas for 5 days in the mountains, which is not very heavy, since a large part of this material is brought to the harness.

  First day. 
  24 early, we climb the snow cone that provides access to the line that we have identified. It is a line combining mixed climbing (which seem difficult) and snowy parts. It appears that the snow is steep, often 70 degrees (according to us), which forced us to do laps throughout. 

  Some easy slopes above the snow cone lead us to the foot of a vertical jump of three lengths of time that we pass. Then we try to reach the bivouac we spotted. It turns out that this is far and must climb 3 hours at night to get there. I start to have fever, cold I am climbing jacket in ... I really had a hard time to finish the day. Evening at the camp I am sure to turn around and go down the next day, but they take good care of me, make me to eat and can not sleep so bad after all: we managed to put the mini tent. We climbed 700m, which is not bad, we thought the camp as far. 

  Strangely I do not feel too bad the next morning and continue. 

  Second day. 
  Few short lengths but difficult Pierre negotiates as a leader and we're back in the steep snow slopes difficult to protect: it is the rocks as possible to ask friends and when this is not possible, plant stakes snow. At night we find a vague location for the camp but not to the tent. We will also do more in the future. We fall asleep on our small rock platforms, not super flat, but there is no better. It did not take much height today: there were many difficult crossings, steep rock bands to bypass ... we took 200m.

  Third day. 
  Mixed lengths alternate with steep snow slopes. We spent part of the afternoon in a big cloud of snow that sends us spindrifts. Evening time but becomes clear there is no bivouac location, really nothing. It stops just before dark to cut into the slope a small platform. I start to feel cold and shivering, I think I have a fever. I had never felt this sensation in the mountains and it is quite unpleasant to feel so low. The camp is not great: we sleep sitting down until the size in the tent without poles to keep warm. The night was beautifully clear and magnificent peaks around. It has also enjoyed since not much sleep. It is 6350m, 1200m we climbed since the attack and the top seems really close. We only 300m 100m and difficult snow.

  Fourth day. 
  Wake up, I feel bad, vacuum energy and motivation funny feeling. Mathieu is moderately well, Peter is ok. But I can not go, I'm afraid it is too risky: No I have more confidence in the strength I have left, and the descent from the summit is complex, can not reach the top completely cooked. We agree, and it seems too committed to continue. It was therefore decided to descend a little frustrated. 
  I team in the long descent reminders that leads to shoulder snow, and from there we descend on foot tormented by the glacier north of the mountain. The descent took us quite complex throughout the day. We're back to CB in the evening, five days after leaving. 

  That is beautiful we climbed the rock never too bad, often very good. The difficulty is ED and supported. This is not a very obvious line, the mountain still offers besides not really. This is somewhat reminiscent of the north face of the Eiger in height and logical ascension (many crossings, little direct vertical lines).

  This is a great challenge on a beautiful mountain! 

  Lukla return may have been even harder: exceptional bad weather raged on Lukla, with many days of fog, making the return to Kathmandu by air impossible. After waiting five days as the weather improves, we love and we decided to walk back: a little more than 100km and 5000m of altitude walk in a day and a half, followed by 10 hours of madness bus instead of 45 min plane ... but it's beautiful! 

  It was a great trip, glad to have climbed together. We also learned a lot. I later learned that other people had the same thing as me, nabbed by a virus probably. 
  It is part of the trip! 

  Jerome Para


expid: BARU11307
peakid: BARU
year: 2011
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: David Graham
sponsor: High Hope Baruntse Expedition 2011
countries: UK
approach: Lukla->Mera La->Baruntse BC
bcdate: 2011-10-22
smtdate: 2011-10-30
termdate: 2011-11-02
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to bad snow conditions
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak (Harvie and Brownsdon)
campsites: BC(22/10,5400m),C1(27/10,6100m),C2(29/10,6400m),xxx(30/10,7000m)
agency: Adventure Thamserku
routememo:
  David Graham (email) - 28 Nov 2012

  Oct 13 Thuli Kharka 4300m
  Oct 14 Khote 3700m
  Oct 15 Tangnag 4350m
  Oct 16 Khare 4900m
  Oct 17 Khare
  Oct 18 Kongma Dingma 4800m
  Oct 19 Kongma Dingma
  Oct 20 Seto Pokhari 5000m
  Oct 21 Seto Pokhari (some weather and altitude delays)
  Oct 22 Baruntse BC 5350m
  Oct 23-26 Day hikes, rope practice, prep for climb at Baruntse BC
  Oct 27 Baruntse Camp 1 Above West Col 6100m
  Oct 28 Day hike, West Col camp
  Oct 29 Camp 2 6400m
  Oct 30 Michael Brownsdon and Pema Sherpa reach south summit 7000m, return 
         to West Col camp 6100m
  Oct 31 Return to Baruntse BC
  Nov 01 Prep to leave BC
  Nov 02 depart Baruntse BC, camp just below Amphu Labsta 5700m
  Nov 03 cross Amphu Labsta to Chhukung
  Nov 04-09 Trek out via Kongma La, Lobuche-Gorak Shep, Periche, Namche etc. 
         (took our time waiting for weather at Lukla to clear)

  Sherpas: Saila Sherpa and Pema Sherpa (the same Pema as for Pethangtse). 
       
  Michael Brownsdon and Pema reached the south summit at approx. 7000m. Alex and I hiked a short distance above high camp. Alex was suffering from the effects of alttitude. I was suffering from a sinus infection that sapped my energy.
   
  No climbing parties had progressed above the south summit in the fall climbing season. Our party was too small to put in the required fixed ropes to put the route in. Pema and Michael found poor snow conditions at 7000m such that anchors could not be placed with any sense of security. One other experienced climber on the route said "you can put in anchors but it's only in your imagination that they will hold you." It would have taken some exploration of route options at 7000m. Our team decided to take the safer option and head down.


expid: KTUN11301
peakid: KTUN
year: 2011
route1: N side
nation: Italy
leaders: Paolo Pieroni
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Khatung Kang Expedition 2011
countries: Sweden
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to bad conditions and route difficulties
campsites: xxx(6100m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  At least 11 members + 2 hired:
    Paolo Pieroni (leader)
    Hans Khutson (Sweden)
    Richard Ivansson (Sweden)
    Donatella Saglione (F) (5900m)
    Silvia Vitton (F) (5900m)
    Federico Siccardi (6100m)
    Alessio Manetti (6100m)
    Domenico Lavagetto
    Manuela Bruschi (F)
    David Adamo
    Roberta Morelli (F)

    Ang Phurba - Makalu
    Pasang -Taplejung


expid: AMAD11339
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Nobuhiko Arita
sponsor: Japanese Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: See route notes
bcdate: 2011-10-22
smtdate: 2011-11-01
termdate: 2011-11-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to exhaustion
campsites: BC(22/10,4600m),C1(26/10,5400m),C2(27/10,6000m),C3(29/10,6400m),xxx(01/11,6700m)
agency: Unique Adventure International (Himal Guides pmt)
routememo:
  Approach: Charikot, Singati, Jagat, Simigaon, Beding, Na, Chorolpa, Pachermo, Thame, Tengboche

  Arita and Phurba Ridar made their summit push on 1 November and reached 6700m; they could not reach to the top due to exhaustion of Arita.


expid: AMAD12302
peakid: AMAD
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Aritza Monasterio
sponsor: Spanish-New Zealand Ama Dablam
countries: New Zealand
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2012-10-21
smtdate: 2012-10-26
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2012-10-28
campsites: BC(21/10,4400m),C1(24/10,5700m),C2(25/10,6100m),Smt(26/10)
accidents: Aritza leg hurt due to fall of a piece of ice on his way down
agency: Expedition Himalaya
routememo:
  The pair climbed without oxygen and Sherpas.

  Ascent Schedule:

  21st Oct: arrival at BC, 4400m
  22nd Oct: went to C1, back to BC (acclimatization)
  23rd Oct: rest day
  24th Oct: night at C1 5700m
  25th Oct: night at C2, 6100m
  26th Oct: departure from C2, arrival summit at 11 am, return to C2 at 4 pm
  27th Oct: back to BC
  28th Oct: leave BC on the afternoon.

  Rodney Garrard reported that big companies used most of the space at C1 and C2 during the whole season, so that an amateur team just could find a place to set up their own tents.

  There are just too many fixed ropes, many climbers using it all the way with their jumars.


expid: AMAD12303
peakid: AMAD
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Danielo Macagno
sponsor: Italy Ama Dablam
approach: Lukla
bcdate: 2012-10-02
smtdate: 2012-10-04
termdate: 2012-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to conditions really poor, especially going alpine style
campsites: BC(02/10,4700m),C1(03/10,5700m),xxx(04/10,6100m)
agency: Monviso Treks
routememo:
  Left C1 on 4 Oct at 9:00 am, and at 12:30 am decided to turn around. Arrived back at BC at 5:00 pm and kept going to Pangboche. 

  No oxygen, alpine style.


expid: AMAD12305
peakid: AMAD
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Jean-Francois Dery
sponsor: Les Mordiques du Quebec to Ama Dablam
approach: Lukla->Everest BC->Kalapattar
bcdate: 2012-10-15
smtdate: 2012-10-22
termdate: 2012-10-24
campsites: BC(15/10,4600m),ABC(20/10,5400m),C1(21/10,5800m),xxx(22/10,6000m)
agency: Mountain Tribes Trekking
termnote:
  Abandoned at 6000m due to lack of equipment, lack of technical skills, exhaustion, lack of time and no weather forecast

routememo:
  After their first try on the 22nd of October, the trio was back to the base camp and had to decide something.

  The technicality of the route caused them more troubles than the altitude: the trio felt lack of equipment on the way to C1, they had to struggle with a 45-degree smooth rock section half-equipped (would be later fully equipped by the Sherpas), felt tired by their attempt and not much motivated anymore with the view to walk again all the way between BC and C1 (7th walk), the trio had to consider as well, as they had only 2 days remaining before coming back on Kathmandu.

  For these reasons and having to deal with their only weather forecast intuition (no weather forecast information available for them), the trio didn't attempt to climb the mountain anymore, even if these last 2 days eventually offered good weather condtions.

  Louis-David Boudrias stopped 30m under the yellow tower.

  Sherpa:
    Namgyal Lama Sherpa, Khiraunle, Bung-9, Solukhumbu, 25/9/71 (2028/6/09), 
      Everest X4, Kangchenjunga X1


expid: CHOY11334
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Hong-Bin
sponsor: 2011 Kim Hong-Bin Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2011-09-02
smtdate: 2011-09-23
smttime: 0945
termdate: 2011-09-25
campsites: BC(02/09,4800m),ABC(04/09,5700m),C1(08/09,6400m),C2(14/09,7100m),C3(22/09,7550m),Smt(23/9)
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal
routememo:
  BC at 4800m at CBC/IC at 5200m.

  Kim and Tenji started their summit bid along with other Korean climbers Kim Jae-Soo team and Kim Chang-Ho from C3 at 4 am Chinese Time on 23rd September. They got to the top at 12 noon (9:45 NST) with other Korean climbers, stayed on summit for about 40 minutes then descended to C3 where they spent the night. Next day 24 September they went down to ABC. Summit day weather was windy and cloudy. Kim saw Everst and Lhotse for very short time.


expid: CHOY11332
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: Romania
leaders: Cosmin Ioan Andron
sponsor: Shantou University Expedition
countries: China, UK
approach: Nyalam->Xixabangma->Tingri
bcdate: 2011-09-29
smtdate: 2011-10-04
termdate: 2011-10-08
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to visa expiry
othersmts: Attempted Xixabangma
campsites: BC(29/09,4300m),ABC(01/10,5700m),C1(04/10,6400m),xxx(04/10,6400m)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  No other members went beyond BC. Visa expired on 10 Oct so they left before the expiry of visa.

  Team had previously attempted Xixabangma and then went to Cho Oyu.

  The expeditions were entirely financed by Li Ka Shing Foundation on behalf of Shantou University. Andron and Yip are Arc-teryx sponsored athletes.


expid: CHOY11320
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: Austria
leaders: Stephen Andres
sponsor: Italian-Austrian Cho Oyu Expedition
countries: Italy, Russia
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2011-08-28
smtdate: 2011-09-21
termdate: 2011-09-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to too much snow and permit period over
campsites: BC(28/08,4800m),ABC(30/08,5600m),C1(10/09,6400m),C2(21/09,7100m),xxx
agency: Amici Treks & Expedition
routememo:
  The team only could do acclimatization. Rest of the members went up to C1. Sciaravello remained at BC.

  Sherpas:
    Roshan Bhattarai, 16/2/85 (5/11/2041), Hangdewa-6, Taplejung
    Ang Kami
    Son Tshering Tamang


expid: CHUR12301
peakid: CHUR
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Adriano Favre
sponsor: Aosta Valley Churen Himal Expedition
approach: Darbang->Sibang->Lulang->Gurjagaon (intermediate camp)
bcdate: 2012-10-02
smtdate: 2012-10-15
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2012-10-22
termnote: Abandoned due to crevasse fall on summit attempt
campsites: BC(02/10,4050m),C1(06/10,5200m),C2(10/10,5800m),Churen-West.Smt(15/10,7371m)
accidents: Marguerettaz fell into a crevasse
agency: Campobase Treks
routememo:
  On 11 Oct Camandona, Cazzanelli and Emrik Favre reached 6600m (acclimatization).

  On 13 Oct Marguerettaz and Adriano Favre reached C2 with fixed rope.

  On 15 Oct Camandona, Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre left C2 at 3 am [to prepare the route] and arrived at lower summit (Churen West) at 3:00 pm (after 12 hours), spent 10 minutes up there and then began descent. They arrived back at C2 at 6:30 pm and slept at C2.

  On 16 Oct they left C2 at 6:00 am and arrived back at C1 at 7:30. Everyone came back from C1 together.

  On Oct 20 Camandona, Adriano Favre, Marguerettaz and Sete Tamang started up for the summit push [to Churen Central] from C2 at 3:00 am. Marguerettaz turned back soon (tired) and fell 50m into a crevasse on his way back to C2 and broke his leg. The others heard his screams and came back and rescued him. By 4:30 am, whole team back at C2. Everyone was back at base camp at 2:00 pm.

  Hired:
    Sete Tamang, 30/03/70, Gorakhani-8, Solu


expid: EVER12301
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Hong Seong-Uk
sponsor: Korea Everest Peace Expedition
approach: Lukla and Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2012-09-11
smtdate: 2012-09-28
termdate: 2012-10-31
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to high winds and cold
campsites: BC(11/09,5200m),C1(20/09,6200m),C2(23/09,6500m),C3(26/09,7200m),xxx(28/09,14/10,7900m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  On 26th of September: Sanu Sherpa and Tsijin Norbu Sherpa begun to fix rope up to C4 and went back to C2 for sleeping. 6 members slept at C3 this night (Choi, Hong, Jung, Kim Jin-Suk, Oh and Rin).

  On 27th: Hong, Jung and Rin slept again at C3; Oh, Choi and Kim Jin-Suk went back to BC.

  On 28th: Sanu Sherpa and Tsijin Norbu Sherpa finished to fix rope up to C4 and went back to C2 for sleeping. Hong, Jung, Rin joined by Kim Myoung-Lae, Park and Woo, all slept at C3.

  On 29th: Woo went alone to C4 for accimatization and went back to C2 for sleeping. The day after he was back to the BC.

  On 14th: Oh slept at C4 on the normal route of Lhotse (used by the Polish team led by Artur Hajzer) and was back the day after at C2.

  16th October: The first summit try day, the 4 Sherpas of the team begun to climb for C3 when the accident of Temba from Sedua occured on Lhotse normal route. The Sherpas called the 4 members of the team (Choi, Kim Jin-Suk, Oh and Park) who were just starting from C2 to go back there in order to search for material to help to carry the body of Temba. They all together found the body at 6700m, in the end of a long red line marked on the Lhotse's face snow and descended it to a flat area so that it could be taken of by the helicopter (because of the winds, the helicopter went only on the 18th of October).

  On 27th October: a second summit try saw Choi, Jung, Kim Jin-Suk and Woo reaching almost C3 (around 7000m) and came back to C2. This was the second and last attempt.

  For most of the month of October, the team tried to reach C3, but was never able to sleep there because of the strong winds.

  Fixed rope: The expedition fixed 4000m of fixed rope, in the icefall then on the west face of the South Col.

  Sherpas:
    Sanu Sherpa, 23 April 1977, Makalu-9, Walung
    Tsijin Nurbu Sherpa, 17 December 1979, Makalu-9, Walung
    Na Tenzing Sherpa, 2036/11/16, Makalu-9, Walung
    Tshiring Sherpa, 2038/4/27, Cheskham, Solu


expid: HUNK12301
peakid: HUNK
year: 2012
route1: E Face
nation: UK
leaders: Graham Desroy
sponsor: Hunku Expedition 2012
approach: Lukla->Mera La->Hunku Valley
bcdate: 2012-10-12
smtdate: 2012-10-25
termdate: 2012-10-28
termnote: Abandoned at 5600m due to sugary snow and cold temperatures
campsites: BC(12/10,4850m),xxx(25/10,5600m)
agency: Loben Expeditions
routememo:
  High point on East Face couloir.

  On their approach to the mountain, the two man team crossed the Mera La and went east to the Hunku Valley and north up the valley to BC at 4850m. They decided they would attempt the east side of Hunku and thought there would be a good line up a big couloir in the middle of the East Face.

  On 24 October they bivouacked at 5200m and next day started their attempt on the couloir. They managed to reach 5600m in the couloir, but deep sugar snow meant they could not get any traction; it was impossible to make any substantial progress.

  Furthermore these were very cold days: 5 degrees centigrade in the morning to minus ten degrees at night. They abandoned the climb on its first day. The sugar snow plus the cold sent them down. The 25th was a long day: they left their bivouac that morning at 4:30 and got down to BC at 3:30 that afternoon.


expid: MANA11324
peakid: MANA
year: 2011
route1: NE Face
nation: Bangladesh
leaders: Mohammad Abdul Mohit
sponsor: Bengal Manaslu Expedition
approach: Arughat->Labu Besi->Dovan->Pewa->Namrung->Samagaon
bcdate: 2011-10-03
smtdate: 2011-10-12
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2011-10-14
campsites: BC(03/10,4800m),C1(07/10,5400m),C2(08/10,6400m),C3(09/10,7000m),Smt(12/10)
agency: World Summit Explorer
routememo:
  Mohit, Mingma, Dawa started their summit bid from C3 at 11 pm on 11 Oct. They got to the top at 12:30 pm on 12 Oct. They stayed on summit without oxygen for an hour, taking photos and videos with lots of banners which were taken by Mohit. Abdul, Mingma and Dawa descended at C3 at 5 pm and spent night there. Next day 12 Oct all went down to BC. Summit day weather was good, clear sky. There were two climbers one from New Zealand who summited an hour before Mohit's team. 

  Ms. Mazumdar on their first attempt on 10 Oct went up to 7200m. They had to turn around due to strong wind and all slept at C3. Since the team did carry enough oxygen it decided to go to summit with only one member. So Mazumdar went down to BC on 11 Oct with Lhakpa Tseri.

  Sherpas:
    Mingma Gyalze, 14/4/1986, Beding
    Dawa Gyalze, 15/3/79, Beding
    Lhakpa Tseri Sherpa


expid: MANA12315
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Christof Aschwanden
sponsor: A Swiss on Manaslu
approach: Arughat->Keurenipani->Machhakhola->Jagat->Samagaon
bcdate: 2012-09-10
smtdate: 2012-09-29
smttime: 1045
termdate: 2012-10-01
campsites: BC(10/09,4900m),C1(15/09,5800m),C2(21/09,6400m),C3(27/09,6800m),C4(28/09,7400m),Smt(29/09)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  At 2:00 am left C4 for summit push. They reached summit between 10:30-11:00 am. They spent 10 minutes on summit as Aschwanden got an headache and arrived back at C4 at 2:30 pm. They went straight down to base camp (arrived at base camp at 7:00 pm).

  Sherpa:
    Karma Gyalje Sherpa, Makalu-5

  Aschwanden has photos of himself on the summit. However the last 10 meters were not climbed because of bad conditions (deep snow).


expid: MANA12316
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: UK
leaders: Patrick Cave
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Manaslu Expedition 2012
countries: Ireland
bcdate: 2012-09-13
smtdate: 2012-09-22
termdate: 2012-10-02
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to lost items in avalanche
campsites: BC(13/09,4800m),C1(19/09,5500m),C2(22/09,6400m),xxx(22/09,6800m)
agency: Himalayan Ecstasy Treks
routememo:
  They lost their kits in avalanche. They were at C2 and lost items include: tents, oxygen, downsuits, sleeping bags, stove, food, rope and ice axe -> all fundamentals.

  After avalanche waited and tried to look for moving items in order to possibly continue, but were unsuccessful.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Dendi Sherpa, Solukhumbu, summited Makalu and Manaslu
    Ang Kami Sherpa, Solukhumbu, summited Everest 2008


expid: MANA12317
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Fabrice Priez
sponsor: Expes.com Manaslu Expedition 2012
countries: Canada, Switzerland
approach: Sange->Larkya Pass-bus to Samagaon (spent 2 days)
bcdate: 2012-09-09
smtdate: 2012-09-22
termdate: 2012-09-23
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to fatal avalanche
campsites: BC(09/09,5200m),C1(11/09,6000m),C2(12/09,6800m),C3(22/09,7300m),xxx(22/09,7300m)
accidents: Fatal avalanche that killed 11 climbers from several expeditions
agency: Expes.com Treks
routememo:
  12 Sept - Everyone descended from C2 and stayed at base camp until 20 Sept.
  20 Sept - 7 people (excluding Grenier and Challeat) headed to C1 on 20 Sept, 
            C1 to C2 on 21 Sept, and on 22 Sept to C3.
  22 Sept - Ludo Challeat and Thomas Grenier went from base camp to C3 and slept
            there that night.

  22 Sept - Arnauld De Fauchier left C3 for base camp as he didn't feel well.
  (that left the 6 who climbed slowly to C3: Belmas, Bos, Manel, Ouimet, Priez, Ricard and Grenier). Grenier and Challeat slept at C3 the night of the avalanche.
  There was not enough room for everyone to sleep at C3. Sherpas resumed back down to base camp, all Sherpas survived.

  At 4:30 a massive avalanche swept down from 7500m killing 11 climbers at C3 and injuring several others (from several expeditions).

  Injured members: Thomas Grenier, Claude Belmas, Arnaud Manel were rescued from C2. Ambigues, De Fouchier, Logean, Massonnet and Poncin were rescued from BC.

  Ambigues and Logean stayed in base camp because of altitude sickness.

  Trekkers to C1 (departed expedition early): 
    Sandrine Royer
    Laurent Coupier
    Laure Guignes

  Sherpas:
    Pechhumbe, Tashigaon, 22/9/87
    Pemba, Taksindu, 4/9/71
    Phu Dorchi, Makalu-5, 30/4/82
    Phura Jangbu (Ang Jangbu), Phurte, 16/4/82
    Gyalze (Gelje), Kagani-9, Okhaldhunga, 24/9/77


expid: MANA12320
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Arthur Smith
sponsor: Himalayan RST Manaslu Expedition
countries: Pakistan
approach: Arughat->Seti Khola->Macchakhola-Pwaywha->Gap->Lihi->Samagaon
bcdate: 2012-09-10
smtdate: 2012-09-22
termdate: 2012-09-25
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to avalanche danger
accidents: There was an avalanche, but everywone was Ok
agency: Himalayan Ecstasy Treks
campsites:
  BC(Ali-10/09,others-12/09,4800m),ABC(5500m),C1(18/09,5700m),C2(21/09,6200m),C3(22/09,6800m),xxx(22/09,7000m)

routememo:
  Ali Baig out of 300 climbers was 1st person to reach 7000m. He went there (7000m) on the 22nd, but did not sleep there at C3 and then went back down to C2.

  Joy Deerness:  6200m
  Arthur Smith:  6800m
  Jennifer Kent: 5800m
  After avalanche occurred, all quit.

  Reason for stopping climbing: while deaths are common in mountaineering because of variuos reasons, this was a natural disaster (and some friends had died).

  Ali Baig would have been first Pakistani to have climbed this mountain, but he didn't want to climb over the souls of others whose dead bodies he helped to bring down.

  Ali Baig was with Glen Plake in C3 and said Glen Plake was the first person to get in touch with base camp after avalanche.

  Himalayan RST = Himalayan Rafting Sightseeing Trekking


expid: MANA12321
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: China
leaders: Jun Yan
countries: Japan
approach: Arughat->Jagat->Samagaon (stayed at Samagaon 2 nights)
bcdate: 2012-09-10
smtdate: 2012-09-29
smttime: 0912
termdate: 2012-09-30
campsites: BC(10/09,4950m),C1(26/09,5700m),C2(27/09,6800m),C3(28/09,7400m),Smt(29/09)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  On 29 Sept at 3:00 am left C3 for summit push:
   
    Jun Yan arrived at summit at 9:12 am and stayed on summit for 2 hours
    Zhang arrived at summit at 9:30 am
    Xian arrived next
    Lin and Matsuhira arrived at 10 am

  They left summit at 11:15-12:15 and arrived C3 at 1:08 pm; they arrived C2 at 3:50 pm; arrived C1 at 6:00 pm and reached BC at 7:35 pm.

  They were at BC during night of avalanche.

  Oxygen:
    From C2 to summit (Matsuhira did not use)
    Sherpas did not use

  Sherpas (all 6 summited):
    Lhakpa Thinduk Sherpa, Makalu-9
    Lhakpa Sherpa, Makalu-9
    Sonam Sherpa, Makalu-5
    Lhakpa Norbu Sherpa, Makalu-5
    Jangbu Sherpa, Solukhumbu 
    Phurba Ongel Sherpa, Makalu-9

  Three other Chinese climbed separately on the same Seven Summit Treks permit:
    Bai Yi
    Ms. Ren Li-Da
    Liu Yong


expid: MANA12322
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Poland
leaders: Jacek Jawien
sponsor: Poles on Manaslu
bcdate: 2012-09-05
smtdate: 2012-09-13
termdate: 2012-09-25
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to avalanche
campsites: BC(05/09,4800m),C1(08/09,5800m),C2(12/09,6400m),C3(13/09,6800m),xxx(13/09,6800m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Sherpas:
    Fu Dorchi Sherpa, Makalu-5
    Lhakpa Sherpa, Makalu-9


  Jacek Jawien: Manaslu Avalanche 09/23/2012

  Jecek Jawien returned a few days ago from the Manaslu expedition. Many mountain climbers were on Manaslu because China had closed the border; therefore, 25 expeditions were undertaken, a lot of people in a small area. Spring on Manaslu is dangerous; fall is better. A few days before the accident everything looked safe; the glacier was basically snowless. There were 200 people present. After a nice-weather period, there came a bad-weather period with snow and rain. After one or two nights there was minimal snowfall, and the alpinists felt safe. The snow pack in Camp 1 was not very deep. After the bad-weather period the weather was nice again and the climbers went to the highest possible area. Camp 3 consisted of 20-25 tents and many Sherpas as well as experienced and non-experienced mountaineers. The avalanche was triggered by a massive serac that broke loose on a high ridge. No one knows how big the serac was that caused the avalanche. The avalanche took 30-35 people with it. Camp 3 got completely covered and Camp 2 partially. Many muntaineers fell down crevasses; some could not free themselves. The dimensions of the avalanche were enormous. At first there was no professional help available; the call for help was made about half an hour after the avalanche had come down. The avalanche was triggered at 5 am. The first helicopters arrived between 8:00 and 8:30 am. There were few signs of an avalanche before this happened and the weather was good. A meeting was held with the Sherpas after the avalanche to decide whether or not to climb up to the avalanche. They decided to send a group of experts. The helicopter rescue was done by a local Nepalese company, Simrik Air. The people in charge of this company first asked who was going to pay them before they flew out. The rest of the organization was just as difficult since the helicopters were all stationed in different places far away from the avalanche. Himalaya needs a professionally organized helicopter rescue.


expid: MANA12324
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: David Lavie
sponsor: Manaslu 2012
bcdate: 2012-09-11
smtdate: 2012-09-30
termdate: 2012-10-02
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to exhaustion
campsites: BC(11/09,4800m),C1(20/09,5750m),C2(21/09,6350m),xxx(30/09,7800m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  David Lavie started with South Asian Trekking but was inserted with the Monterosa Treks expedition (which did indeed manage everything well in BC) whose other members were:

    Johann Wenzl (Austria) who climbed alone like him without Sherpas and oxygen
    4 Polish people led by Zbigniew Bak, who just climbed with one Sherpa

  Ascent schedule:

  David Lavie second acclimatization trip from the 20th to the 22nd of September where he slept to C1 then C2. The 22nd after he reached C3 he felt too tired to sleep there, so went back to BC.

  David Lavie started for the summit on the 28th of September and went from BC to C2 for sleeping. He felt sick in 29th morning and had a rest on C2 during the day instead of going to C3. At 9 pm he felt he had recovered enough to climb during the night. He reached C3 at 11:30 pm. There he met a lovely Spanish girl called Eva; along with her he continued to climb for C4 and they both reached at 5 am on the 30th September. Here he felt too cold and tired with too much wind, he spent 1 and half hours in a tent. Eva was waiting for him.

  At 6:30 am with less wind and sun, both decided to start again. Davie Lavie stopped at 7800m (according to him the plateau presented some steps which hid him the summit) at 10:30 am due to exhaustion, whereas Eva apparently continued to the summit. Here David Lavie knew he would not have enough time on his schedule to recover from his bid (at least he would have needed 4 or 5 days) more the good weather forecast had to end very soon after the 1 October, so he abandoned the climb. The same day he went down to C2 that he reached between 3 and 4 pm and where he slept. The day after, on 1st October he was back to the base camp and the day after already back to Samagaon.

  At the beginning David Lavie wanted to ski down from the summit. But he didn't carry skies at all during his summit attempt, he had difficulty to install the camps on his own. For that reason David Lavie did not install C4 and even C3. David Lavie believes that climbers without oxygen and Sherpas should start directly from C3.


expid: MANA12325
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Norway
leaders: Tore Sunde-Rasmussen
sponsor: Irish-Norwegian Super Expedition to Manaslu
countries: Ireland
approach: Flew into Samagaon
bcdate: 2012-09-21
smtdate: 2012-10-01
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2012-10-03
campsites: BC(21/09,4700m),C1(27/09,5400m),C2(29/09),C3(30/09,7300m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Himalayan Human Adventure
routememo:
  The team stayed at base camp night of avalanche.
   
  Both used oxygen because they did a relatively quick ascent and did not want to become exhausted (also Sherpas encouraged and wanted to use it for this reason). They went quickly because weather was poor. All climbers left C4 at 3:30 am and arrived at summit at 10:00 am, stayed on summit for 45 minutes and left summit at 10:45 am. They stopped and rested at C4 at 1:30 pm and at 2:45 left C4 for C2. Arrived at C2 at 7:00 pm and slept there. They left C2 at 10:00 and arrived at BC at 4:30 pm.

  O'Connell fell into crevasse, but was on the fixed rope and was pulled out by the Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Mingma Tsering Sherpa, 1/8/70 (17/4/2027), Beding
    Nima Gyalzen Sherpa, 18/5/76, Beding


expid: NUPT12301
peakid: NUPT
year: 2012
route1: Central Ridge of S Face (British Spring 1961 rte)
nation: Spain
leaders: Juan Vallejo
sponsor: Basque Nuptse Expedition 2012
bcdate: 2012-09-24
smtdate: 2012-10-17
termdate: 2012-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to bad weather (high winds)
campsites: BC(24/09,4700m),xxx(17/10,7700m)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Lodge at Chhukung village
  High point at base of SW Ridge.

  The expedition had no Sherpa helpers, no bottled oxygen, no fixed camps. They uses a lodge in the village of Chhukung, at 5700m south of Nuptse, as their base camp.  The three members climbed together all the time in their bid ot scale Nuptse's South Face via what has become known as the Bonington route from the British expedition of 1961.

  They approached the mountain from the south northward on the Lhotse Nup Glacier along the east side of Mt. Chukkung to the col between Chhukung and the start of Nuptse's South Ridge. They made their first bivouac at this col at 5800m on 14 October.

  In their final push for the summit, they moved up the ridge to 6400m and bivouacked there on the 15th. Their third bivouac on the 16th was at 7000m in the col at the start of the SW Ridge.

  They left their fourth and final bivouac for the summit at 4:30 am and reached the col at 12:00 noon. They had been climbing in a couloir, but now at the more open col, they no longer had any protection from the wind. They could make no progress above the col because here they were hit by fierce (70-80 km/hr), very cold wind.  They returned to their 7000m bivouac site at 5:30 pm as night was falling and were back in Chhukung village the next day, the 18th. Their climb was over.


expid: PUTH12301
peakid: PUTH
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Iran
leaders: Mohammed Hossein Jalali
sponsor: Fars Expedition Team to Putha Hiunchuli
ascent1: 51st
approach: Barbung Khola->Kakkot->BC
bcdate: 2012-10-08
smtdate: 2012-10-18
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2012-10-20
campsites: BC(08/10,4980m),C1(10/10,5480m),C2(15/10,6100m),C3(16/10,6500m),Smt(18/10)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Abbasi left C3 at 1:30 am, arrived at summit 9:30 am and left summit at 9:45 am.

  Akhtar Ravian left C3 at 1:30 am, arrived at summit at 10:00 am and left summit at 10:45 am.

  Vahid Reza Montaseri and Fazel Kashki returned above C3 due to cold hands and feet from bad equipment [est. 6900m].

  Abbas Arjomand had mountain sickness.
  Hamed Ghasohaei at C3.
  Hamed Bazrafkan at C2 (physician stayed in BC).
  Jalali had pain in the eye.

  Sherpas:
    Norbu Sherpa, 30 yrs old (brother of Jangbu)
    Jangbu Sherpa, 26 yrs old (brother of Norbu)
    Pemba Sherpa, 35 yrs old


expid: TUKU11302
peakid: TUKU
year: 2011
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Jesus Lopez Castro
sponsor: Catalonian Himalayan Expedition 2011 (to Tukuche)
ascent1: 23rd
countries: Germany
approach: Nayapool->Ghorapani->Tatopani->Marpha->Alubari->Yak Kharka
bcdate: 2011-10-25
smtdate: 2011-11-05
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2011-11-07
othersmts: Climbed Dhampus on 27 Oct by both members and two Sherpas
campsites: BC(25/10,5100m),C1(02/11,6030m),C2(04/11,6400m),Smt(05/11)
agency: Annapurna Treks (Ngima Sherpa)
routememo:
  Berbel, Lopez, Tenzing and Ang Kami started their summit push at 3:30 am from C2 on 5 November. They got to the top at 11 am and spent 15 minutes on summit. They returned to C2 at around 1 pm, then to C1 where they got at 2 pm and spent night there. Next day 6 November they went down to BC. Summit weather was very windy, waist deep and sunny.

  Two Spanish climbers did not meet Vollmann. He was separate. No idea about German climber.


expid: TUKU11301
peakid: TUKU
year: 2011
route1: NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Francois Lesavre
sponsor: Expes.com Tukuche 2011 ATM
ascent1: 24th
countries: Belgium
bcdate: 2011-11-04
smtdate: 2011-11-13
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2011-11-15
campsites: BC(04/11,5100m),C1(07/11,5600m),C2(12/11,6300m),Smt(13/11)
agency: Expes.com Treks
routememo:
  On 13 November Pechhumbe and Gyalze started from BC at 2 am for summit. Lesavre and Wicart who were at C2 started from there at about 5 am. Lesavre and Wicart turned around from 6700m at about 10 am to BC [icy conditions], whereas Pechhumbe and Gyalze continued their climb and got to the top at 10:30 am. They stayed on summit for 10 minutes and went down to BC. Other four members touched C2 and one member remained at BC.

  Sherpas:
    Pechhumbe Sherpa
    Gyalze Sherpa, 26/9/1977 (10/6/2034)


expid: CHOY11314
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: Nepal
leaders: Raj Kumar Neupane
sponsor: Monterosa International Cho Oyu Expedition 2011
countries: Belgium, Czech Republic, Ecuador, Germany, Spain, UK
bcdate: 2011-09-07
smtdate: 2011-10-03
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2011-10-06
campsites: ABC(07/09,5700m),C1(09/09,6400m),C2(20,25-27/09,01/10,7150m),C3(02/10,7500m),Smt(03/10)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  The Monterosa Cho Oyu expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Monterosa provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:

  Participants:
    Leopold Goven (Belgium)
    Lucia Ferrandiz (Spain)
    Jose Rivadeneira (Ecuador)
    Christopher Suggitt (UK)
    Margaret Foster (UK)
    Hans Mueller (Germany)
    Jose Esparta Asteinza (Spain)
    Jaromir Mataj (Czech Republic)
    Ales Ort (Czech Republic)
    Thomas Koerbitz (Germany) [??]


  Leopold Goven (Belgium)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: None
  Left:  Not to BC
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned at Tingri due to illness


  Lucia Lopez Ferrandiz (Spain)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: ABC(07/09,5700m),C1(09/09,6400m),C2(20,25-27/09,01/10,7150m),
         C3(02/10,7500m),Smt(03/10)
  Left:  06/10/2011
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Success

  Hans-Willi Mueller says that Lucia Lopez joined other Spanish and summited on 3 Oct.


  Jose Rivadeneira (Ecuador)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: ABC(07/09,5700m),C1(09/09,6400m),C2(20,25-27/09,7150m),xxx
  Left:  05/10/2011
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned at 7150m due to bad weather (snowstorm)


  Christopher Suggitt (UK)
  Margaret Foster (UK)

  Name:  Chris Suggitt & Maggie Foster Cho Oyu Expedition 2011
  Camps: ABC(07/09,5700m),C1(09/09,6400m),C2(20,25-27/09,7150m),xxx
  Left:  05/10/2011
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 7150m due to bad weather (snowstorm)

  Arrived at ABC on 7th Sept, departed ABC on 5th Oct, high point C2 (7000m) on following dates 20 Sept, 25 to 27 Sept. 

  Sherpa support dictated to us that the bad weather on mountain would prevent any further climbing on mountain after 27 Sept.

  Sherpa dictat proved wrong but we had cleared all equipment from the mountain so did not have a further opportunity for a summit attempt. Very disappointed with Dawa, as we felt he had deliberately lied to us about other expeditions packing up and returning early due to Chinese Climbing Association apparently not willing to reestablish trail. He made the decision to curtail our climbing by a week and derig camps, when, in fact, the predicted good weather did materialise and many climbers summitted whilst we sat at base camp watching them. He had returned to KTM.

  Oxygen: Maggie carried some oxygen but did not use any.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Sherpa supported Maggie Foster directly.


  Hans-Willi Mueller (Germany)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: ABC(07/09,5700m),C1(09/09,6400m),C2(20,25-27/09,7150m),xxx
  Left:  05/10/2011
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Abandoned at 7150m due to bad weather (snowstorm)

  When I tried to go to the summit, I was caught in snowstorm in C2 at 7150m. I had to wait there 2 days, after that it was impossible to go on because of avalanche danger. So I had to go down and terminate.

  We had two sherpas in a group of 5 persons, Temba and Pemba.


  Jose Esparta (Spain)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: ABC(07/09,5700m),C1(09/09,6400m),C2(25-27/09,7150m),xxx
  Left:  05/10/2011
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned at 7150m due to bad weather (snowstorm)


  Jaromir Mataj (Czech Republic)
  Ales Orts (Czech Republic)

  Name:  H. T. Cho Oyu Expedition 
  Camps: ABC(07/09,5700m),C1(09/09,6400m),C2(20,25-27/09,01/10,7150m),
         C3(02/10,7500m),xxx
  Left:  06/10/2011
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned at 7500 due to loss of equipment at C3

  Jaromir Mataj:
    09/07/2011 Arrive to ABC (5700m)
    09/09/2011 BC-C1 (6400m) - sleep C1
    09/10/2011 C1-BC
    09/14/2011 BC-C1 (6400m) - sleep C1
    09/15/2011 Above C1 (to the seracs 6700m) - sleep C1
    09/16/2011 Above C1 (plateau above the seracs 6900m) - sleep C1
    09/17/2011 C1-BC
    09/19/2011 BC-C1 (6400m) - sleep C1
    09/20/2011 BC-C2 (7200m) - sleep C2
    09/21/2011 C2-BC
  --first try to summit 
    09/24/2011 BC-C1 (6400m) - sleep C1
    09/25/2011 BC-C2 (7200m) - sleep C2
    09/26/2011 C2 - sleep C2 - because of bad weather
    09/27/2011 C2-BC
  --second try to summit 
    09/30/2011 BC-C1 (6400m) - sleep C1
    10/01/2011 BC-C2 (7200m) - sleep C2
    10/02/2011 C2-C3 - sleep C3
    10/03/2011 C3-C1
    10/04/2011 C1-BC
    10/06/2011 leaving BC

  Our backpack with equipment (sleeping bag, cooker, half of tent) fell down from C3, so we returned.


  Thomas Koerbitz (Germany)

  Name:  None
  Camps: xxx(01/10,7150m)
  Left:  06/10/2011 
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned at 7150m due to bad weather (snowstorm)

  Chris Suggitt says that Thomas Koerbitz from Germany claimed to have achieved C2 (7150m) on 1st or 2nd October.


expid: CHOY11311
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: China
leaders: Wangchen Sonam
sponsor: Holy Mountain Adventure Cho Oyu Expedition 2011
countries: Taiwan
smtdate: 2011-10-04
campsites: Smt(04/10)
agency: Holy Mountain Adventure
routememo:
  3 or more members + unknown number of Tibetans summited on 4 October.


  Brien Sheedy (AAI)

  Early morning hours of 4th, Brien reports (about) 17 Chinese and Tibetan guides also summited during the previous night. No idea when they departed C3, but likely early evening as they summited in the dark. Lots of crampon points on the summit, so had to be them as wind on the 3rd Oct would have blown previous tracks away.

  Three Chinese summited after AAI that day (Chinese and Tibetan guides). They were close to ridge line on plateau on Ozark gear when AAI passed them.


expid: AMAD11331
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Kenton Cool
sponsor: Dream Guides Ama Dablam Expedition 2011 (Group 1)
bcdate: 2011-11-05
smtdate: 2011-11-05
termdate: 2011-11-12
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to one member's AMS
campsites: BC(03/11,4700m),C1(04/11,5900m),xxx(05/11,6100m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  05/11  4700m
  C1  09/11  5900m
  HPt 10/11  at noon by Cool, Wilkie, Owen, Dorje Sherpa.

  Team left C1 at 8 am. The weather was clear and cold. Wilkie got very altitude sick, so the whole team turned back (est. 6100m).


expid: AMAD11342
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Chris Szymiec
sponsor: Ganesh Adventures Expedition to Ama Dablam
countries: Iran, UK
bcdate: 2011-10-08
smtdate: 2011-10-10
termdate: 2011-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 5750m due to overcrowding of the route
campsites: BC(08/10,4700m),C1(10/10,5750m),xxx(10/10,5750m)
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
routememo:
  The three climbers established C1 at 5750m on 10 October.

  Then Williamson had to leave the expedition when he received the news that his grandfather had died. He took a helicopter to Kathmandu on the 12th and left Nepal the next day.

  On the 14th Szymiec and Samimi reoccupied C1. But they felt the normal route they were following was too overcrowded for them to enjoy the climb, so they abandoned the idea and on the same day retreated to BC to return to Kathmandu.


expid: AMAD11343
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Philippe Barthez
sponsor: Expedition Terres D'Adventure Ama Dablam 2011
bcdate: 2011-10-18
smtdate: 2011-11-01
smttime: 1200
agency: Adventure 6000
campsites:
  BC(18/10,4500m),C1(23/10,5600m),C2(28/10,5900m),C3(29/10,6200m),Smt(30/10) or
  BC(18/10,4500m),C1(23/10,5600m),C2(30/10,5900m),C3(31/10,6200m),Smt(01/11)

routememo:
  Lhakpa, Barthez, Dubourget, Blazier, Meybeck and Bey summited on 30 Oct at 12 noon (as per Ministry file), but Terres D'Aventure web site says that that 5 members and 2 Sherpas summited on 1 November.

  Clermidy, Gallia and Talenti went up to C2.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Tshering, 11/11/1983 (25/7/2040), Cho Oyu X1, Everest X2
    Kechap
    Pemba


expid: AMAD12306
peakid: AMAD
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Tatsuo Shinohara
sponsor: Team Japan Ama Dablam Climbing 2012
bcdate: 2012-10-23
smtdate: 2012-10-25
termdate: 2012-10-30
termnote: Abandoned at 5100m due to disagreement between leader and client
campsites: BC(23/10,4500m),xxx(25-26/10,5100m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  The team's two Sherpas set up C1's tents at 5100m and returned to BC while the two members were at BC arguing about their climbing plans. The leader, Shinohara, a professional mountain guide, had been hired by Ms. Ito in Japan to lead her, but she did not provide any time in their program for acclimatization, which Shinohara and their sirdar, Tul Bahadur Tamang, considered essential.

  On the 26th, the two members and two Sherpas left BC for C1, but the two Japanese continued arguing about Shinohara's tactics. He decided at 4700m that they should go back to BC, and they descended accordingly. The next day they had a meeting of the two members and two Sherpas; Ms. Ito decided to abandon the climb.

  On the 29th the Sherpas brought down all the gear they had left at the site for C1, and the next day the team left BC to return to Kathmandu.

  Hired:
    Tul Bahadur Tamang, 30/8/66, Deusa, Solu, Dhaulagiri I X1, Cho Oyu X2, 
      Everest X2, Manaslu X1


expid: AMAD12307
peakid: AMAD
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Sweden
leaders: Per Ostberg
sponsor: Mani Wheel Expedition to Ama Dablam
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2012-10-20
smtdate: 2012-10-30
smttime: 0945
termdate: 2012-11-01
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak for acclimatization
campsites: BC(20/10,4400m),C1(25/10,5800m),C2(28/10,6200m),C3(29/10,6450m),Smt(30/10)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  On 30th Oct departure at 6:15 am, Tul Singh reached summit at 9:45 am and Ostberg reached at 10:30 am. They returned to C1 at 6 pm (C2 was full). The temperature on that day morning at Gorak Shep was -18 degrees. On summit day it was -25 degrees with continous 15m/second wind, severely cold.


expid: AMAD12310
peakid: AMAD
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Dominique Maillot
sponsor: French Team on Ama Dablam
approach: Lukla->Gorkyo Ri->Kalapattar->Island Peak
bcdate: 2012-11-01
smtdate: 2012-11-06
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2012-11-08
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(01/11,4660m),C1(05/11,5800m),Smt(06/11)
agency: Monviso Treks
routememo:
  Juglaret and Morel started from C1 to summit at 1 am, then Juglaret stopped 50 meters under the summit because of exhaustion and cold feet. Morel summited at 9 am, with Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa, then Juglaret and Morel went back at 2:15 pm at C1 (with the Sherpa).

  Maillot stayed at C1 because of food poisoning (out of date eggs in lodge). 

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa, 22/11/1980 (7/8/2037), Thami


expid: AMAD12311
peakid: AMAD
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Siegfried Wasserbauer
sponsor: Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: France
approach: Khumbu->Island Peak->Ama Dablam BC
bcdate: 2012-11-03
smtdate: 2012-11-03
termdate: 2012-11-05
termnote: Abandoned at 4400m (BC) due to route overcrowding
campsites: BC(03/11,4400m),xxx(03-05/11,4400m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Expedition didn't attempt the climb because of an overcrowded normal route! On 4th of November, another French team told them there was no hope to get a place to sleep at C2. Ms. Koenig could not hope to climb from C1 directly to the summit. Having to wait at least for the 9th or 10th of November to get a place at C2, the pair didn't have enough time in its schedule.


expid: AMAD12312
peakid: AMAD
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Wolfgang Wallner
sponsor: Flatz Expedition to Lobuje and Ama Dablam
approach: Khumbu and Lobuje Peak
bcdate: 2012-10-27
smtdate: 2012-11-03
smttime: 1530
termdate: 2012-11-08
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East
campsites: BC(27/10,4640m),C1(31/10,5900m),C3(02/11,6300m),Smt(03/11)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  The pair stayed 2 nights at C1 and went directly to C3 on 2 Nov because there was no place at C2 (thus they were at the true C3). On 3 Nov they summited and on 4 Nov they reached BC in 8 hours.


expid: AMAD12314
peakid: AMAD
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Garrett Madison
sponsor: Garrett Madison Ama Dablam 2012
countries: Guatemala
bcdate: 2012-10-27
smtdate: 2012-11-07
smttime: 1045
termdate: 2012-11-09
campsites: BC(27/10,4600m),C1(01/11,5800m),C2(06/11,6200m),Smt(07/11)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  All members and Kami Rita left C2.7 for top on 7 November at 8:30 am, arrived at summit at 10:45 am and descended to C1 at 8:30 pm.

  Sherpa:
    Kami Rita Sherpa (Topke), 17/1/1970, Thami, Everest X16, Cho Oyu X4, 
      Lhotse X1


expid: AMAD12315
peakid: AMAD
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Gabriel Filippi
sponsor: Filippi Ama Dablam
bcdate: 2012-11-06
smtdate: 2012-11-11
termdate: 2012-11-13
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to varying illnesses and abilities
othersmts: Climbed Chhukung Ri
campsites: BC(06/11,4600m),C1(09/11,5800m),xxx(11/11,6000m)
agency: Mountain Tribes Trekking
routememo:
  The three-member team made BC on 6 November. Filippi was appalled by the large number of climbers at the same time on the same route as his proposed line. He had planned to climb in what he called alpine style, i.e., no Sherpas and no bottled oxygen, and he felt that with so many people crowding the route, he could not climb as he wished. So he left the team from C1 on 11 November.

  The two other members stayed on the mountain and on 11 November they climbed up to the site for their C2 at 6000m, but then went back to C1. They knew that this morning would be their highest point: Bilodeau had had a bad head cold with coughing for several days, which, turning into mild bronchitis, had drained his strength, and Trembly was not a strong climber. They descended to BC on the 12th and left on the 13th.


expid: AMAD12316
peakid: AMAD
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Chris Szymiec
sponsor: Two on Ama Dablam
countries: UK
bcdate: 2012-10-25
smtdate: 2012-11-01
termdate: 2012-11-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to Williamson's lack of time
campsites: BC(25/10,4600m),C1(29/10,5700m),xxx(01/11,6000m)
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
routememo:
  After arrival at BC Williamson was not feeling well (stomach problem). On 29 October he and Szymiec climbed to C1 and back to BC on 30 October. They returned to C1 on 1 November and were on their way to C2 when Williamson declared he had no more time. They turned back and went all the way to Namche Bazaar that day. Flew from Lukla to Kathmandu on 3 November.


expid: AMAD12317
peakid: AMAD
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Mexico
leaders: Hector Ponce de Leon
sponsor: Mexican Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 2012-10-28
smtdate: 2012-11-04
smttime: 1145
termdate: 2012-11-06
campsites: BC(28/10,4600m),C1(31/10/5700m),C2(02/11,6000m),Smt(04/11)
agency: Everest Parivar (SummitClimb pmt)
routememo:
  Both members and both Sherpas left C2 for the top at 5:20 am and reached summit at 11:45 am and returned to C2 at 11:00 am.

  This team climbed on the SummitClimb permit (Arnold Coster) and shared facilites and Sherpa staff.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Dorje, 8/9/85, Patle, Lhotse (28/5/12)
    Palden Nima, 29/8/78, Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2


expid: AMAD12318
peakid: AMAD
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Iain Peter
sponsor: Jagged Globe Ama Dablam Expedition 2012
countries: Australia, Finland, Sweden
bcdate: 2012-11-12
smtdate: 2012-11-26
termdate: 2012-11-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to fierce winds
campsites: BC(12/11,4500m),C1(16/11,5250m),C2(21/11,6000m),xxx(26/11,6000m)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  On 21 November, members occupied C2 for the first time while two Sherpas went ahead to set up C3 and returned to C2 that day. The weather was very windy. The members stayed in C2 for three nights while the wind continued to blow too strong for them to advance. They retreated to BC on the 24th.

  On the 25th the members (all nine of them) moved up to C1 and on the 26th to C2.  But the wind was still too fierce for the members to go higher. The next day, the 27th, they descended to BC, left the mountain and spent that night at Pangboche. The climb was over.

  Peter didn't know exactly how strong the winds were, but he did know that they destroyed four tents at BC.


expid: AMAD12319
peakid: AMAD
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Bryce Brown
sponsor: Brown Ama Dablam
bcdate: 2012-11-21
smtdate: 2012-11-26
smttime: 1520
termdate: 2012-11-27
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak on 18 Nov by Bryce Brown and Suzanne Twelker (sister of Sunny Twelker)
campsites: BC(21/11,4600m),Biv(23/11,5800m),C1(24/11,6050m),Smt(26/11)
accidents: Twelker had intestinal infection so missed Island Peak climb and 1st day of Ama Dablam climb
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  The two members left their camp at 6050m at 8:15 am on 26 November. The time was a bit late, but they waited for the sun to come around and warm their hands, and also for the wind to drop, which it did. (It had been quite strong the day before and had delayed their summit push).

  The 26th of November was a "beautiful day, clear and dry." They summited at 3:20 pm and spent only enough time at the top to take pictures. They returned for the night to their camp at 6050m.

  On the 27th, they descended to BC and beyond it to Pangboche village and were in Namche Bazaar the next day in time for their Buddhist wedding there on the 29th. The following days were full of wedding festivities. On 3 December a big helicopter took the wedding party, most of whom were Sherpa friends, to Jiri, and from there they returned to Kathmandu by bus.


expid: AMAD12313
peakid: AMAD
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Christian Raass
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Ama Dablam Expedition 2012
countries: Austria, Switzerland
bcdate: 2012-10-03
smtdate: 2012-10-14
smttime: 2000
termdate: 2012-10-16
campsites: BC(03/10,4600m),C1(06/10,5800m),C2(13/10,6050m),Smt(14/10)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  The summit party left C2 at 2:30 am on 14 October. They were five members, plus three Sherpas who where fixing rope as they moved towards the summit with the members coming along behind them. The members were Knapp, Meinen, Raass, Ruembeli and Waibel; the Sherpas were Dendi, Nima Tshering and Lhakpa Gelu.

  Meinen became very tired, turned back at 6300m and returned to C2. The others were on to the summit; Knapp was the first on the top at 4:00 pm.

  Non-summiting members:

  Lattman got to C1 on 12 October, but a chest infection sent her back down to BC.

  Ursan-Baumann also got a chest infection; he managed to reach 5800m on 12 October, but then retreated to BC.

  Wehner went to C2 on 13 October, but had a bad night that night and did not got to the summit with the summit party.

  Sherpas:
    Dendi, 22/1/83, Taksindu-5, Solu, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X2
    Nima Tshering, 15/9/73, Taplejung
    Lhakpa Gelu, 23/8/89, Taksindu-5, Solu


expid: AMOT12301
peakid: AMOT
year: 2012
route1: W Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Lionel Chatain
sponsor: Amotsang 2012
approach: Annapurna Trail and Phu Valley
bcdate: 2012-10-20
smtdate: 2012-10-23
termdate: 2012-10-28
othersmts: Climbed Pokharkan (POKR-123-01) and unnamed 6305m peak north of Jomson Himal
campsites: BC(20/10,5435m),ABC(22/10,5545m),xxx(23/10,6220m)
achievment: 1st summit of 6305m
agency: Glacier Safari Treks
routememo:
  On 19th of October: the team had to cross the river above Nagoru village, but because of high level of the water, the mules were blocked: then the 18 charges of the animals had to be carried in 2 times by the porters until the BC. (From there Lionel Chatain noticed that right after the river crossing the usual pass can be avoided by a higher variant created recently.)

  On 20th of October: the BC was established at 5435m above the lake marked on the map (which consists more in a wet area in reality). This BC lies in the bottom of Pokharkan (6372m) whch would be climbed last.

  On 22nd of October: the team crossed the Amotsang Pass walking along a superb lake (not mentioned on the map) and reached its Advanced Base Camp at 5545m (for Amotsang/6305m peak). (The ABC was established lower than the one estimated by Paulo Grobel on his map, for having water available. In fact there is a better spot further north with a large flat are around 5600/5700m).

  From there the temperature was very cold every day at ABC, usually -25 degrees C, Explaining quite well the conditions observed in the area, with a lots of goblet snow (no avalanche risk, but difficult to progress in it)

  On 23rd of October: the team started at 6:30 am for Amotsang with its 2 Sherpas. Trying at first a left appraoch to the West Ridge: after one hour to progress in goblet deep inconsistent snow, moreover climbing under a serac, Chatain decided this option was too exposed and decided to try the next option more on the right. After a large detour under Jomsom Peak, the team met 60m in 45/50-degree slopes with a cornice to break at the end, and the western ridge was eventually joined.

  From there, Chatain went alone to check the snow/ice practicability on the ridge. After 80m on the ridge, with 1000m high face on the south side, he could just admit that the snow conditions, even not that bad (refrozen crust on the surface, quite inconsistent snow under) didn't allow him to fully secure the progression (even with snow anchors) of his 3 clients (the ridge's slopes varied the section he crossed between 45/50 degrees and 70 degrees of steepness). In fact the climb would have been possible with 2 autonomous ropes in alpine style, but his clients were not enough technically skilled for that. Lionel stopped then at 6220m at 2 pm on the ridge after 80m of climb from the col (he was approximately 300m far again from the next option col). All the team was back at the ABC at 5 pm.

  On 24th of October: both Sherpas were back at the BC (rest for the team at ABC).

  On 25th of October: without a permit for it, the team ascended the 6305m peak (without name on the map) lying west [north?] of Jomsom Peak (no name but in fact, true summit, with more than a 100m high depression between its summit and the col separating it from Jomsom Peak). After a start at 6 am, the team reached the summit through a route using the right side of the East Face; after a first short 40m north section of 35/40-degree slopes, the east slopes at 25/30 degrees led them lightly northwest from the summit that they reached at 2:30 pm. Only Couture stopped in this slopes, then waited for the team at the bottom of the East Face. The team went back on his steps, reached a further northwest col and by the gentle 30-degree slopes of the East Face, went back to his ABC at 3:30 pm after having met back Couture.

  This would apparently the first ascent of this summit.

  On 27th of October: all of the team went back to the BC of Pokharkhan then had a rest on 28th.

  On 29th of October: Chatain and the 2 Sherpas ascended Pokharkhan face, sometimes in deep goblet's snow!. The trio started at 8 am, summited at 4 pm and joined the camp on the riverside at 9 pm (in fact that day, the rest of the team had walked down at 4500m to the river camp above Nagoru in order to gain time).

  Fixed rope and Sherpas:

  The team took 150m fixed rope for the climb of the West Ridge pass, but didn't use it.

  Sherpas:
    Sirdar Ngawang Sherpa, 15 April 1971, Phalate-4, Okhaldhunga
    Phu Dorchi Sherpa, 1 March 1971, Makalu-4, Sankhuwasabha


expid: AMPH12301
peakid: AMPH
year: 2012
route1: N Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Minoru Nagoshi
sponsor: Hiroshima Mountaineering Federation 70th Anniversary Expedition 2012
approach: Lukla->Dingboche->Chhukung, SSE to Chhukung Glacier
bcdate: 2012-10-31
smtdate: 2012-11-11
termdate: 2012-11-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to avalanche danger
campsites: BC(31/10,5100m),Biv1(10/11,5400m),Biv2(11/11,6000m),xxx(11/11,6000m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  The team approached their BC from Lukla via Dingboche and Chhukung villages to the Chhukung Glacier, which was now moraine, and made their BC on the moraine at 5100m on 31 October. Then they went on an acclimatization trek to the Amphu Laptsa at 5800m, wehre they arrived on 3 November. They returned to BC on the 4th. On the 5th they went to the site on their first bivouac and returned to BC the same day.

  They began their attack on the mountain on 10 November, when they revisited their first bivouac site at 5400m on a platform they dug out of the ice. The next day, the 11th, they moved up to 6000m and bivouacked here at the bottom of the North Face.

  During the night there was a "huge" avalanche, and in the morning of the 12th they saw a large serac overhanging their bivouac site which appeared to be ready to fall. They immediately decided to leave the mountain and descended to 5400m, where they had spent the night of the 10th. They were in BC on the 13th, and that day the serac did all; no one was hit by it. They left BC on the 15th.

  Two men, Nagoshi and Shinagawa got frostbite -- Nagoshi on four fingers and Shinagawa, who had been frostbitten on a previous climb, on his toes. The frostbitten areas were painful, but no blisters had developed.

  Nagoshi said he would like to return to Amphu's North Face. He believed this had been the first attempt ever to scale the mountain.


expid: ANN112301
peakid: ANN1
year: 2012
route1: N Face
nation: Russia
leaders: Gleb Sokolov
sponsor: Russian Annapurna Expedition
countries: Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan
bcdate: 2012-09-25
smtdate: 2012-10-04
termdate: 2012-10-13
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to fatal avalanche
campsites: BC(25/09,4000m),C1(29/09,4900m),C2(04/10,5800m),xxx(04,06-07/10,5800m)
accidents: Lobanov and Tukhvatullin were buried in an ice-block avalanche
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
routememo:
  C1 was set up at two altitudes: the Russian members pitched theirs at 4900m on 29 September, and the others made theirs at 5000m the following day. They had one C2 at 5800m.

  They fixed a total of 500m of rope: 300m from BC to C1 and 200m between C1 and C2.

  The expedition headed for C2 on the North Face in three groups:

  On 4 October, five Russians went to C2: Lutokhin, Manuylov, Ryzhenko, Sinev and Sokolov. They returned to BC on the 5th.

  On 6 October, three Uzbekistanis, Ilyasov, Kutsiy and Yudin, went up to C2.

  On 7 October, the three other Uzbekistanis headed for C2, and one of them, Bikov, arrived there at 2:43 pm.

  Then a fatal avalanche struck. The two remaining Uzbekistanis, Lobanov and Tukhvatullin, were still on their way to C2, just below it, at 2:53 pm when they were hit by big and little blocks of ice raining down from the Dutch Rib, the German Rib and the coulour in between the ribs.

  The two climbers were completely buried by the avalanche. Their fellow members tried for two days to find them, on the surface horizontally via a crevasse and from the air by a helicopter, but they found nothing. The bodies were deep in an ice cave and by the second day the ice had compressed.

  The attempt to climb the mountain was abandoned on 7 October and the survivors  left BC on the 13th.


expid: ANN412301
peakid: ANN4
year: 2012
route1: NW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
sponsor: Paulo's Annapurna IV Expedition
countries: Belgium
bcdate: 2012-10-21
smtdate: 2012-10-31
termdate: 2012-11-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to deep snow beyond Tilman's Dome
campsites: BC(21/10,4850m),ABC(23/10,4950m),C1(25/10,5400m),C2(28/10,5850m),C3(30/10,6050m),xxx(31/10,6500m)
accidents: Frostbite on Francois's fingers
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  The summit party to Tilman's Dome [6500m] left C3 for the top at 8:30 am on 31 October and all reached the Dome at 12:30 pm. They were back in C3 at 2:30 pm and spent the night there.

  Non-summiting members:

  Bellier, Males and Poncin climbed to C2 on 28 October and stayed there that night.  But on the 29th they turned around and descended to C1 because of their concern about the danger of avalanching. Poncin was particularly worried because his brother had been injured by an avalanche on Manaslu earlier in the month.

  Francois on 24 October went up to the site for C1, but immediately returned to ABC because some of his fingers had been frostbitten. Touchard descended with Francois to help him. They left the team on the 25th.


expid: BARU12301
peakid: BARU
year: 2012
route1: SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Xavier Aladel
sponsor: Baruntse French Expedition 2012
approach: Khumbu->Hinku Valley->Makalu->Baruntse BC
bcdate: 2012-10-26
smtdate: 2012-10-30
termdate: 2012-11-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6150m due to lack of mountaineering experience
campsites: BC(26/10,5400m),xxx(30/10,6150m)
agency: Himalayan Ecstasy Treks
routememo:
  Both team members admitted they were not skilled enough climbers. So, when they saw that the final part of the ascent from the BC, meaning the summit ridge cornice with 2 crevasses and not equipped with fixed rope above 6800m, they just didn't dare to climb.

  Xavis Aladel went 50m below C1 in a day trip from BC on the 30th of October (up to 6150m) Patrick Legendre stopped at the beginning of the glacier (around 5800m) the same day.

  Sherpa:
    Ang Gelu Sherpa, Surke, Solu, 23/7/1970, Everest X2, Cho Oyu


expid: BARU12302
peakid: BARU
year: 2012
route1: SE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Peter Balmer
sponsor: Baruntse Sky Dive Expedition
countries: Switzerland, UK
approach: Khumbu Valley->Amphu Laptsa
bcdate: 2012-10-11
smtdate: 2012-10-20
termdate: 2012-10-23
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to high wind and bad glacier conditions, lack of equipment
campsites: BC(11/10,5400m),C1(13/10,6000m),C2(19/10,6500m),xxx.Mbrs(19/10,6500m),xxx.Sherpas(20/10,6900m)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  Route: SE Ridge

  High point for members - 6500m at C2 on 19 October
             for Sherpas - 6900m on 20 October

  According to team's sirdar, Galden Sherpa, the four members and two Sherpas, Galden and Phul Bahadur Tamang, went to C2 at 6500m on 19 October and stayed there that night. The next day, while the members remain in C2, the two Sherpas went up to 6900m fixing rope across the major crevasse and up to this point, the south summit, and returned to C2.

  But on the 21st the wind was too strong to continue the climb that day. Everyone retreated to BC instead and it was decided to abandon the climb all together.

  Sherpas:
    Galden Sherpa, 6/12/86, Cheremy, Bung-9, Solu, Everest X1
    Phul Bahadur Tamang, 26/9/84 (10/6/2041), Lukla, Solu, Everest X1


expid: BARU12303
peakid: BARU
year: 2012
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Paul Noble
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Baruntse Expedition 2012
countries: France, Netherlands, Switzerland
approach: Hinku Valley->Mera La->Baruntse BC
bcdate: 2012-10-28
smtdate: 2012-11-05
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2012-11-08
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak
campsites: BC(28/10,5400m),C1(30/10,6100m),C2(31/10,6300m),Smt(05/11)
agency: Himalayan Ecstasy Treks
routememo:
  Summit day 5/11/2012: all the team except Cornelis Hermanus started at 2:30 am (Cornelis went to visit C2 and stayed at C1 for sleeping, but decided not to attempt the summit (lack of experience for mountaineering).

  Herbert Luethi arrived first on top at 8:30 am with Dorji Sherpa and went back to base camp at 2 pm. Samuel Lipscombe arrived on top at 9:30 am with Roshan Bhattarai. Then Noble, Mills and Bracq with Phur Lhakpa Sherpa. The six of them went back to C2 the same day and slept there (arrival there about mid-afternoon), then went back to the base the day after.

  Sherpas:
    Phur Lhakpa Sherpa, (2049/2/10) 23 May 1992, Bung-9, Solukhumbu
    Ngang Dorje Sherpa, (2048/7/17) 3 Nov 1991, Tamku-5, Sankhuwasabha
    Roshan (Dipen) Bhattarai (2041/11/05), 16 Feb 1985, Hangdewa-6, Taplejung


expid: BARU12304
peakid: BARU
year: 2012
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Martin Mazal
sponsor: Czech Baruntse Expedition 2012
approach: Khumbu Valley->Amphu Laptsa
bcdate: 2012-10-26
smtdate: 2012-10-29
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2012-10-30
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak
campsites: BC(26/10,5400m),C1(27/10,6100m),C2(28/10,6500m),Smt(29/10)
agency: Sherpa Alpine Trekking
routememo:
  Libor Blazek and Petr Mihulka stayed in BC of Baruntse, tired from the trek (which included the ascent of Mera Peak in cold conditions), with first stage of AMS (headache).

  Krejci went with Mazal and Pucalek until C2, slept there the night of the 28th of October. After a bad sleep with 1st stage of AMS, she decided to go back to the BC next day.

  The team did not use oxygen or Sherpas help to fix their camps. However, they remarked that they would not have summited without the fixed rope put by the other teams.


expid: BARU12306
peakid: BARU
year: 2012
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Alain Meyer
sponsor: Meyer Rousseau 2012 to Baruntse
countries: France
approach: Hinku Valley->Mera La->Baruntse BC
bcdate: 2012-10-24
smtdate: 2012-11-03
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2012-11-06
campsites: BC(24/10,6500m),C1(27/10,6100m),C2(02/11,6450m),Smt(03/11)
agency: Khumbu Shangri-La Nepal
routememo:
  Snow conditions were excellent, but weather very cold (at C2 -20 degrees inside the tent).

  Alain Meyer started at 3 am, climbed 45 minutes (to 6550m), but had too cold feet so went down in 15 minutes to C2. Spent 1 hour 30 minutes to warm his feet (white), waited for the sun 2 hours more, then started at 7:30 am for the BC, which he reached at 10:30 am.

  Denise Meyer and Rousseau started at 3 am. Rousseau reached the summit at 9 am with Pasang then Meyer reached summit at 11 am with Ngima Sherpa. On the way down, the crew stopped 3 hours at C2 then was back at 3:30 pm at C1. The day after they were back at BC.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Temba Sherpa, (2043/07/10) 27/10/86, Lukla
    Nima Ongdi Sherpa, (2035/10/05) 19/1/79, Makalu-5


expid: BARU12307
peakid: BARU
year: 2012
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Dirk Groeger
sponsor: Amical Alpin Baruntse Expedition 2012
countries: Austria, Switzerland
bcdate: 2012-09-14
smtdate: 2012-09-22
termdate: 2012-09-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to strong winds forecast
campsites: BC(14/09,5450m),C1(19/09,6140m),xxx(22/09,6400m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC near lake
  C1 on east side of West Col.

  The expedition intended to fly to Lukla on 3 October, but their Lukla flight was cancelled, so instead they flew to Phaphlu the next day. They reached BC a day behind schedule on the 14th.

  On the 22nd, Groeger and Faber with Sona Dendu and Tshering Sherpas deposited gear at the site for C2 at the beginning of the SE Ridge at 6400m and then returned to C1 that day. On the next day,the 23rd, Landmann and Leitinger climbed to C2's site and similarly descended to C1 the same day.

  Now the weather forecast became unfavourable: 100 km/hr wind was predicted for the following days. The team therefore decided on the 23rd to cancel the climb. The deposit at the C2 site and C1 were brought down to BC on the 24th, and everyone was in BC on the 25th. They left BC by helicopter on the October 27 for Lukla and flew by scheduled flight from Kathmandu that day.

  Groeger believes that in good weather, no wind and hard snow under foot, no C2 would be needed: the summit bid could be made directly from C1. The crevasse that had turned away many teams in previous seasons, was no longer a problem since it had been fixed on its right (east) end up a steep (35-40 degrees) slope.

  The only serious health problem amongst the members was Arendt's cerebral edema.  He went up to C1 with others on 19 September, but on the 20th he had symptoms of serious altitude sickness. He left the team and flew by helicopter to Lukla to return to Kathmandu.

  Faber and Groeger reached the team's high point of 6400m on 22 September. All other members got to C1 at 6140m. One member, Hausegger, even went there twice, once on the 17th and again two days later when the camp was established.

  Sherpas:
    Sona Dendu Sherpa, 5/10/60, Khumjung, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X5
    Tshering Sherpa, 20/12/84, Khumjung, Everest X2


expid: BARU12308
peakid: BARU
year: 2012
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Goetz Wiegand
sponsor: German Baruntse Expedition
approach: Khumbu->Chhukung->Ampha Laptsa
bcdate: 2012-10-06
smtdate: 2012-10-08
termdate: 2012-10-12
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(06/10,5400m),xxx(08/10,6000m)
agency: Multi Adventure
routememo:
  BC near lake
  High point at bottom of West Col's west side.

  The team approached Baruntse from Khumbu in the west, as most team do, but found it very difficult: there is no glacier left, so getting up onto the West Col is a problem because it now is steep bare rock, so one must go half a kilometer to the right to the right to reach some ice. But this approach is very steep and requires the installation of fixed rope.

  The Germans had no climbing Sherpas with them, but they did have two Sherpa guides to show them the way to and from BC. The team established their BC in the normal place near a lake on the 6th of October. After the team had rested on the 7th, the Sherpa guides helped them on the 8th to transport their gear to a deposit at the bottom of the Col on its west side. Everyone slept that night at BC.

  On the 9th heavy snowfall started in the morning and lasted for a day and a half, dumping 30-40 cm of new snow. Discouraging the Germans further were some large seracs between C1 and C2 which they could see from BC. They decided to abandon the climb.

  On the 10th they went back to their deposit and brought all their gear down to BC. They packed up on the 11th and left BC on the 12th to go to Mera Peak's BC. Here, too, they could make no climbing progress because there was too much powder snow covering everything. They went to Lukla and flew to Kathmandu.


expid: BARU12309
peakid: BARU
year: 2012
route1: SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: SummitClimb Baruntse Expedition 2012
countries: Australia, Belgium, Brazil, Canada, Germany, Netherlands, UK
bcdate: 2012-10-30
smtdate: 2012-11-04
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2012-11-06
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak on 26 Oct by all members except Maurer and all Sherpas
campsites: BC(30/10,5400m),C1(02/11,6100m),C2(03/11,6373m),Smt(04/11)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  BC on northside of middle of lake
  C2 on SE Ridge.

  This expedition had no problem crossing the notorious crevasse on the SE Ridge, Mazur said. It was no longer very wide, as it had been in recent years.

  The summit party left C2 for the top at 2:00 am on 4 November. They were Budge, Davis, Deelen, Downie, James Kaminski and his brother Joel, Lohaus, Mazur, Moritz and Seidel, plus Sherpas Ang Pasang, Chhewang Karma, Dawa Jangbu, Jangbu, Karma, Lhakpa Tendu, Mingma and Nawang Nuri. All of them reached the summit at 10:00 am and were back in C3 by 7:00 pm. The weather was very good but very cold.

  Oxygen was used only by Seidel, who developed high altitude sickness on 5 November.  He returned to Kathmandu by helicopter on the 6th.

  Non-summiting members:

  Brophy, Cotter, Klich and Moura chose to stop in C2 and not go for the top.  Maurer, who was 69 years old, did not go above BC. Saario, who had a bad head cold, also did not try for the summit.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Pasang, 15/6/84, Patle-4, Okhaldhunga, Everest X2
    Chhewang Karma, 28/1/89, Patle, Everest X1
    Dawa Jangbu, 4/6/79, Patle-4, Cho Oyu X3, Everest X1, Lhotse X1
    Jangbu, 24/5/67, Patle, Cho Oyu X4, Everest X7, Lhotse X1
    Karma
    Lhakpa Tendu
    Mingma 
    Nawang Nuri, 15/5/79, Patle, Lhotse X1


expid: CHAM12301
peakid: CHAM
year: 2012
route1: W Ridge-N Face of Chamlang
nation: UK
leaders: Nick Bullock
sponsor: Chamlang North Face Expedition 2012
approach: Lukla->Mera La->Hunku Valley
bcdate: 2012-10-12
smtdate: 2012-10-26
termdate: 2012-11-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to strong wind forecast
othersmts: Climbed Hunku (HUNK-123-02)
campsites: BC(12/10,5000m),High-Pt.W-Ridge(26/10,6200m),xxx.N-Face(04/11,5700m)
agency: Loben Expeditions
routememo:
  The two Britons goal was to make the first ascent of Chamlang's North Face, but first they climbed several heights in the area to acclimatize. They moved as far west as the West Col of Baruntse on 18 October, and even were on the West Ridge of Chamlang itseft from 24 to 26 October. They went 6200m on the ridge. Finally they returned to their BC for their attempt on the North Face on 2 November.

  They started up the face on 3 November and made their first, and as it turned out, their only bivouac on the face. The next day they reached 5700m on the face, but now fierce wind drove them back to their bivvy for the night and off the mountain the following day, the fifth, as they returned to BC. They actually had not achieved the altitude they had gained on the West Ridge.

  From the same BC they turned their attention to Mt. Hunku and on the 11th of November, accomplished the first ascent of its East Face from BC to top to BC in a single day, covering 400m of scree and the last 600m of snow and ice to the 6119m summit.

  They checked the weather forecast on the 12th. It predicted that the strong winds already blowing would increase as they continued to blow. And these were cold winds: -10 degrees Celsius every morning at BC. The team left BC on the 15th.


expid: DHA112302
peakid: DHA1
year: 2012
route1: NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: SummitClimb Dhaulagiri Expedition 2012
countries: Australia, Czech Republic, Ireland, Netherlands, Poland, Slovakia, Sweden, Switzerland, UK
bcdate: 2012-09-11
smtdate: 2012-10-03
termdate: 2012-10-04
termnote: Abandoned at 7650m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(11/09,4671m),ABC(21/09,5081m),C1(22/09,5800m),C2(24/09,6553m),C3(02/10,7577m),xxx(03/10,7650m)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 on NE Ridge
  C3 on NE Ridge at start of traverse.

  Six members and six Sherpas left C3 for the summit on 3 October. Bailey, Coster, Fila, Maybank, Mazur and Pontinen with Sherpas Ang Pasang, Jangbu, Lhakpa Gelu, Pasang Norbu, Sange and Tenji started out for the top at 2:00 am. They got only 100m above C3, where they had to turn back because of the sugar snow lying loosely on rock, where it was impossible to get a purchase.

  They retreated to C1. They had no time to make a second attempt: their timetable had been set when they planned to climb Cho Oyu, but with Tibet closed, they had to substitute another mountain at the last minute.

  Three members left the team early:

  Karel left on 27 September because of business problems back home; he had reached C1.

  Miller left on the 28th by helicopter; he was seriously out of shape for climbing a huge mountain.

  Mooney got to ABC only and left on the 21st; he was afraid of heights.

  Oxygen was used by all members who went above C2. Their Sherpas used none.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Pasang, 15/6/84, Patle-4, Okhaldhunga, Everest X2
    Jangbu, 24/5/67, Patle, Cho Oyu X4, Everest X7, Lhotse X1
    Lhakpa Gelu, 13/4/77, Beni, Solu, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X7, Lhotse X1
    Pasang Norbu, Nurugaon, Makalu, Everest X6, Lhotse X, Kangch X1, Manaslu X1
    Sange, 21/5/71, Dinding, Makalu, Lhotse X2
    Tenji, 1/6/82, Patle, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X1


expid: EVER12176
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Chris Szymiec
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Everest Expedition 2012
countries: Canada, Sweden
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2012-04-13
smtdate: 2012-05-25
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2012-05-30
campsites: BC(13/04,5100m),ABC(20/04,6400m),C1(01/05,7100m),C2(23/05,7800m),C3(24/05,8300m),Smt(25/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Four members summited Everest via the North Col on 25 May 2012. They were Ellis, McGahon, Riddermark and Szymiec (the leader). Also on the top were Dawa Dorje, Dorje Khatri and Pemba. Ellis and McGahon reached the top at 6:00 am, Szymiec summited at 6:30 am, and Riddlemark got to the top at 7:30 am.

  Summiters used oxygen as follows: 
    Ellis from 7100m (C1) to summit
    McGahon from 7100m to summit
    Riddermark from 7100m to summit
    Szymiec from 8300m (C3) to summit

  Non-summiting members:

  Harris went no higher than C1 at the North Col (7100m) because of illness.

  Erikson, Hartelius and Wostin reached 8500-8700mm on 25 May, then turned around because of exhaustion and the cold.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Dawa Dorje Sherpa, 22/8/83, Pangboche, Everest X3
    Dorje Khatri, 19/12/68, Ghunsa, Lelep-9, Taplejung, Everest X1
    Pemba Gyabu Sherpa, Lelep-7, Taplejung
    Mingma Gyabu Sherpa, Lelep-7, Taplejung


expid: EVER12302
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Nobukazu Kuriki
sponsor: Team Kuriki to Everest
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2012-09-12
smtdate: 2012-10-18
termdate: 2012-10-21
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due frostbite and coldness
campsites: BC(12/09,5300m),C1(19/09,6000m),C2(20/09,6400m),C3(22/09,7200m),C4(16/10,7500m),xxx(18/10,8000m)
agency: Bochi Bochi Treks
routememo:
  19 Sept: all team slept for the first time at C1.
  20 Sept: all team slept for the first time at C2.
  21 Sept: all team slept at C2 again

  22 Sept: Kuriki reached C3 at 1:30 pm to install his tent and put inside some deposit for his summit attempt (inside the tent he left his sleeping bag, some food, gas and a battery) and slept there. Rest of the team slept again at C2.

  23 Sept: Kuriki went down to C2 and all team went back to the base camp the same day.

  Second time up for summit in October:
   
  (Ishii and Kadotani went with 8 porters who carried their luggage and filming gear from BC to C2. Sherpas would stay at C2 to watch Kuriki during his attempt in case of rescue and Kuriki team would shoot him for 3 days there before joining Pumori BC to get a better view of the upper part of the western ridge)

  9 to 12 Oct: On 9th October, all the team climbed from BC to C2 and waited there 3 days in bad weather conditions (clear sky with jet stream).

  13 to 15 Oct: On 13th of October, Kuriki went up at C3 that he reached at 3:15 pm. He carried a 15 kgs bag mostly filled with food and gas. Here he had to wait three nights again for better conditions: The jet stream was just blowing strongly every day in clear sky, as usual.

  16 Oct: thanks to a little jet decrease that morning day, two porters (Ramesh Gurung and Kami Singee Tamang) joined Kuriki at C3 in the morning around 9:30-10 am, with a new gas and a new battery for his walkie/talkie. Then Kuriki went up alone at C4 that he reached short before 2 pm. Meanwhile, Ishii and Kadotani descended to Everest BC and joined Pumori BC for filming him better on the upper final part of the ascent (they stayed here until 20th October. The same day, some of their Sherpas left as well C2 to go on the normal route of Lhotse to help for the rescue of Temba from Sedua who fell the same day at 8360m.

  17 Oct: in the end of the afternoon, the jet begun to decrease so that Kuriki could leave C4 at 7 pm and begun to climb all night with no wind, but cold.

  18 Oct: however during the morning the jetstream was back and he had to stop at 5 am around 8000m at the Hornbein Couloir bottom because it was too cold. According to him, the wind speed was 30 meters per second and the temperature about -25 degrees (-25 degrees C and 30 m/s windspeed = windshield effect around -40 degrees C. However as every day during his attempt, the sky was clear. Then Kuriki went back to C4 at 5:30 pm where he slept and had to consider his hands were already frostbitten.

  19 Oct: Having contracted serious frostbites, Kuriki asked for rescue to C2 so that a Sherpa team including Man Bahadur Gurung, Ramesh Gurung, Lal Bahadur Tamang and Dawa [Finchok] Sherpa climbed to C4, which was reached between 4 and 5 pm. Here the team directly begun his climb down during all night.

  20 Oct: all the rescue team was back at C2 at 5:50 am and slept there. According to Kuriki, the wind was more alternate the 19th and 20th of October, sometimes very strong again, sometimes not so much (this explains why on 20th the helicopter couldn't rescue them at C2).

  This day, both photographer and cameraman went back to the Everest BC to call for helicopter rescue.

  21 Oct: the helicopter arrived at 9:30 am at the BC. Then the helicopter flew in two times to Lukla then Kathmandu (because of fuel and lack of seats for all the passengers).

  Food and loss of weight:
   
  During his summit bid (from 13th to 17th October), every day Kuriki used to eat one noodle soup for dinner and drink hot water or tea during the day. Weighing 60 kgs normally, Kuriki wasn't weighed at his arrival in CIWEC clinic, but he believes he must have lost something like 5 or 6 kgs.

  A light style ascent:
   
  His food sponsors (Nishin and Gurico) being experts in dried food (for space and mountain expeditions) the food weighed almost nothing in his bag. Kuriki used a small light tent (wt 1.3 kgs) for his ascent, using the same for C3 and C4.

  When he started from C2 on 22nd of September for his deposit and on 13th of October for the summit, both times his bag would weigh around 15 kgs, second time mostly filled with food and gas.

  Frostbites:

  Kuriki has got severe frostbites on both hands (bleeding on the 21st of October under the bandages) almost nothing on the feet (just a bit swelled mostly the right one). His nose was frostbitten as well, black on the front of the nostrils, red on the bridge of the nose, for both mostly on the left side of it.

  Conclusion:

  Kuriki spent 7 days above 7200m practically alone (once joined on the 16th of October by two porters then a second time for his rescue on 19th of October) in quite severe wind and cold conditions: 3 nights at C3, 3 nights at C4 and one night climbing above 7500m.


expid: GAN112301
peakid: GAN1
year: 2012
route1: W Face (to 5500m)
route2: SW Ridge (to 4500m)
route3: NW Ridge (to 5700m)
nation: UK
leaders: Phil Crampton
sponsor: Altitude Junkies Ganesh I Expedition 2012
countries: Belgium, Colombia, Finland, Russia, USA
bcdate: 2012-10-29
smtdate: 2012-11-09
termdate: 2012-11-11
termnote: Abandoned at 5700m due to inability to find climbable route
campsites: BC(29/10,4000m),xxx(09/11,5700m)
agency: Expedition Himalaya
routememo:
  BC on moraine Torogumba Glacier
  C1 several camps pitched while exploring
  C2 on mountain's west side.

  This was basically an exploration of the west side of Ganesh I by the team's leader with the assistant leader and their Sherpas in support in order to reach the summit via the West Face.

  First, they attempted to find a line directly up the West Face. C1 was placed at 5000m at the foot of the face on 31 October by Crampton and their five Sherpas.  From there they climbed the left side of a gully on the face and fixed 900m of rope here. But the gully turned out to be an avalanche chute. Their five Sherpas climbed to 5500m; Crampton and Mansikka went to only 5450m after the Sherpas reported on the avalanching.

  Next, on 5 November, they went to have a look at the possibility of climbing the SW Ridge. Crampton and Pasang Ongchu, their sirdar, walked to the head of the glacier at 4500m. This approach was even more dangerous than the West Face because of large hanging seracs.

  Lastly, Crampton and their five Sherpas, hoping for a safe route on the NW Ridge, made a new C1 at 5000m at the snow-line on the 7th. On the 9th from this C1 Crampton, the Sherpas and all the members tried to push a route to a C2. They climbed to 5700m where they were stopped by crevasses that were impassable without a good supply of ladders. Their high point here as just below their proposed site for C2. They retreated to BC, and there on the 10th the decision was made to abandon the climb.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Finjo Lama Bhote, 5/9/88 (20/6/2045), Hatiya-1, Everest
    Dorje Sherpa, 1/1/65, Phuleli (near Nunthala), Taksindu-3, Solu, Everest X6
    Pasang Nima Sherpa, 28/1/74 (2/3/2030) Chaurikharka-2, Solu, scaled Everest
    Pasang Ongchu Sherpa, 25/4/87, Bung-9, Solu, Everest
    Sange Sherpa, 20/9/73, Sotang-6, Solu, scaled Everest


expid: GYAJ12301
peakid: GYAJ
year: 2012
route1: W Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Mickael Croizet
sponsor: Gyajikang 2012
ascent1: 8th
approach: Via Nar Phu Valley
bcdate: 2012-10-13
smtdate: 2012-10-23
termdate: 2012-10-25
campsites: BC(13/10,6750m),C1(16/10,5400m),C2(19/10,5700m),C3(21/10,6050m),C4(22/10,6250m),Smt(23/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  On 18th October the team climbed to C2 from BC then slept at C1. This day Philippe Poincloux left the expedition and came to Kathmandu because he was obviously not on the good travel.

  On 19th October the team (Charlot, Chatellain, Croizet, Froger and Le Menajour) climbed to C3 from C1 and slept at C2. This day, Christophe Mattern left for trekking because he was technically not enough skilled. He joined the team back in Kathmandu.

  On 20th October the team had a rest at C2.
  On 21st October the team joined C3 and slept there.
  On 22nd October the slept at C4.
  On 23rd October the team reached the summit.

  Gyajikang consists of a very long ridge necessiting 4 camps.

  The team climbed almost in alpine style: Mickael Croizet had 2 clients on his rope and the two Sherpas were give one client each.

  Yves Froger contracted light 1st degree frosbites on the fingers (used Deflecten on it). 

  Julien Sanchez stayed most of time at the base camp, being very sick when he slept one time at C2.

  Fixed rope, oxygen and Sherpas:

  The team fixed 150m of rope: 40m above C2 (loose rock section) and 110m from C4 to the summit (on the sharp ridge with steep slopes, Mickael Croizet had to put in a hand rope). He left 80 meters on the ridge and took back the remnant.

  The team didn't use oxygen, but carried its hyperbaric chamber until C3 (didn't use it).

  Sherpas:
    Ang Dawa Sherpa, 18/11/84, Jubing-1, Kharikhola
    Pasang Tenzing Sherpa, 25/2/1988, Jubing-1, Kharikhola


expid: HIML12304
peakid: HIML
year: 2012
route1: W Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Hans Rauner
sponsor: Swiss Himlung Expedition
approach: Annapurna Trail and Phu Valley
bcdate: 2012-10-15
smtdate: 2012-10-24
termdate: 2012-10-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to high winds and lack of equipment and time
campsites: BC(15/10,4800m),C1(17/05,5600m),C2(22/10,6000m),C3(23/10,6300m),xxx(24/10,7000m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Hans Rauner remarks that the Himlung BC is not correctly located in the maps (on the way up, it is located on the left side more behind. (On the wrong maps, it is currently located on the right side of the glacier)

  Fixed rope:

  Rauner's group took 400m of it, but didn't use it. 600m were already put by other teams (6 or 7 expeditions were with them on the mountain), mostly between C1 and C2 (3 to 400m) just above C2 (50m on a steep part) and after C3 (2 to 300m until 6700m).

  Schedule ascent:

  On 24th of October: Hans Rauner, Andre Reithebuch and the 2 Sherpas stopped at 7000m due to strong winds (100km/h) and without sun light. The last part above 6700m, the steepest one, was not yet equipped with fixed rope, what in these conditions would have been useful. (In fact last part consists of 35/40-degree slopes, partly snowy and icy, but not difficult technically).

  Rauner and Reithebuch had 1st degree frostbite on nose and fingers. Sherpa also (on the face)!

  The team didn't have enough time to try again.

  Sherpas:
    Tshering Thendu Sherpa, 3/10/1975, Khumjung-2
    Samden (Sonam) Bhote, (9/4/2036), Hatiya-2


expid: HIML12305
peakid: HIML
year: 2012
route1: W Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Ryan Hollow
sponsor: Big Sky Himlung Expedition
ascent1: 46th
approach: Besisahar->Koto->Meta->Phu
bcdate: 2012-10-22
smtdate: 2012-11-01
smttime: 1245
termdate: 2012-11-04
campsites: BC(22/10,4900m),C1(24/10,5550m),C2(30/10,6035m),C3(31/10,6370),Smt(01/11)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Mike Firth bivoucked two nights at C3 the 31st of Oct and 1st of November because the two took one tent only (a fourth companion should have joined, but didn't come).

  On summit day, the wind was like 20 to 30 km hour and the cold like -25 degrees C, the sun coming only from 9:30. The trio started at 4:30 am and was back at 5 pm at C3. The day after they were back to BC after a nice ski descent from C3 to C1 with same very good powder snow.


expid: HIML12306
peakid: HIML
year: 2012
route1: W Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Valter Perlino
sponsor: Caravanserail 2012
ascent1: 41st
approach: Kali Gandaki->Tilicho La->Manang->Kangla->Nan->Phu Valley
bcdate: 2012-10-21
smtdate: 2012-10-26
termdate: 2012-10-29
othersmts: Climbed Saribung
campsites: BC(21/10,4800m),C1(23/10,5400m),C2(24/10,6000m),C3(25/10,6300m),Smt(26/10)
agency: Sherpa Alpine Trekking
routememo:
  On 18th of October: the pair acclimatized on Saribung, reaching the top at 11 am. Previously on the same day, the approach on the moraine to reach the glacier was very long. Both skied down from the summit in 40 cms of goblets snow.

  On 26th of October: the pair left with its Sherpa for the summit. All the night was very strong, then the team waited for the sun to warm a bit. With less wind, the team started at 7 am. (The same day a German team summited at 4 pm and went back around midnight at C3).

  That morning day temperature measured at BC was -17 degrees C: at 6300m at C3 it was for sure -25 degrees C. The wind blowing strongly and continuously during the night decreased during the morning, was like 35 to 40 km/h maximum gust of wind during the final part of the ascent.

  Fixed rope and Oxygen:

  The team didn't use oxygen (they didn't have an hyperbaric chamber) and did not fix rope at all (they didn't have it as well). The day after their ascent, the Sherpas of the Japanese team installed fixed rope from C3 to the summit.

  Route and summit description:

  The route would get the notation easy in classical European notation. Technically, only one section consisting in 3 meters of steep ice (55 degrees) in the glacier between C1 and C2. And last 50 meters below summit are a bit steep.

  Apart from this, this is a long route mostly dangerous because exposed to the high and cold winds, what would be apparently the meaning of "Himlung Mountain of the Wind."

  Summit areas sizes like 5 to 7 meters large and 10 meters long.

  Accidents, etc:

  One French guy contracted frostbite on the fingers the summit day of Saribung and was rescued by helicopter.

  During the Himlung expedition 3 Japanese were rescued by helicopter (one for lung edema, 2 others for serious frostbites of fingers).

  Sherpa:
    Ngima Sherpa, 2 Dec 1972, Sikli, Jubing-9, Solu, Cho Oyu X5, Everest X3

  On 20th of October one Austrian man (Bertram Klehenz) and one Sherpa claimed to have reached the summit. On 26th of October the only practicable route leading to the summit obliged Audisio to break a cornice far on the right side of it (southwest direction from the summit; the trio used the rope for safety); the question is that the cornice was obviously nowhere broken and that there were absolutely no footprints on the summit.


expid: HIML12307
peakid: HIML
year: 2012
route1: W Ridge from SW
nation: UK
leaders: Olan Parkinson
sponsor: Southwest Ridge Himlung Expedition
countries: Ireland
bcdate: 2012-09-25
smtdate: 2012-10-08
termdate: 2012-10-13
termnote: Abandoned at 6421m due to bad conditions (of snow and glacier, wind) and lack of time
campsites: BC(25/09,4800m),C1(30/09,5450m),C2(07/10,5800m),C3(08/10,6250m),xxx(08-09/10,6421m)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  Schedule ascent:

  At first the expedition met with a Swiss team which came to C1 and left quickly. Alone on the mountain, the team spent a few days for acclimatizatin between base camp and C1 (the usual deposit camp at 5000m, 1 hour 30 minutes from the base camp, would not be used at all) sleeping for the first time at C1 the 30th of September.

  A few days after, the team began to search for a way to go through the much crevassed and steep glacier from C1 to C2. This section, the most difficult, would demand them 4 days to equip. According to the weather forecast which announced a good weather window, the 6th of October, the team started for its summit bid and slept at C1. The 7th of October C2 was reached in deep snow and set up lower than expected, around 5800m on a little flat area just under the sommital plateau to be sheltered from the winds, in fact the weather forecast was good for Phu but not so accurate on the mountain, so that they would have wind just every time from there!

  Here would Claire Waterfall stop her ascent, spending the night and getting back down to the BC the day after. Earlier the same day, Justin Featherstone who was sick since the beginning of the expedition (a bad cough at first, then a bad cold) stopped halfway to C2 and went back to the BC.

  The day after on the 8th of October, the 4 remaining members and 3 Sherpas left late at 10 am (for the wind dropped a little bit) and reached the plateau after a short steep ice wall (about 70 degrees on 10 meters) and steep slopes. In a 20 meters high steeper section, the Sherpas while crossing a windslab one after another (with snow until the chest!), launched a little avalanche without injuries.

  Then the team begun to cross the plateau under continuous wind and deep snow, with two Sherpas in front opening the route and one in back remaining with Jonathan (who took his skis); both of them arrived 1 hour after the others at C3. The route on the plateau consisted to cross 2 secondary summits (at 6400m and 6421m) before gently descending to C3 site at 6250m. Indeed the plateau consisted more in a ridge, with 45-degree slopes on the right (with some crevasses and windslabs) and cornices on the left (the team would discover the huge size of it whilst arriving near C3 and looking back on their steps). Nevertheless, the wind blowing from back right and with a very good visibility, there was no concern for their security. The team reached C3 at 4:30 pm.

  During the night winds increased up to 70 miles an hour, the tents being regularly re-covered with snow. On the 9th October, the team definitely left C3 late at 9 am for the BC. In fact the team leader hoped to sleep one more night here for the wind to drop, but Jonathan and Sandra begun to feel altitude sickness and it seemed that the wind wasn't going to stop at all. Morever the leader and Sherpas could observe a long crown wall lying on a shoulder just short from the top (meaning a recent quite big size avalanche) and the slope under one filled again with fresh snow. In case of a new summit bid, the Sherpas left 2 rolls of fixed ropes on the campsite anyway, then packed anything down.

  Back on the BC, there were discussions about next plans, knowing the route was now opened until C3. Furtemba proposed one day rest and back for a summit bid the day after but everybody got tired, apparently including him and other Sherpas! In fact all of the team spent best part of the days before its only attempt finding a way through the glacier then let its last energy on the plateau. On the 10th October, Doma and Angdu with one Kitchen boy went up again at C1 and turned back to the base camp. The expedition was over.

  Geographical configuration:

  It seems that west winds have a trend to rush to the west orientated glacier raising between Himlung and Nemjung, then to be evacuated up on the West Ridge of Himlung (kind of spread venturi effect), well explaining the main configuration this team met on the ride, with cornices on the north side (left on their way up) and steep slopes with windslabs on the south (right side on their way up)

  Fixed rope:

  225 meters were used to equip the glacier between C1 and C2 (the most technical part of the ascent was there: one crucial time, Olan had to give Furtemba a leg up). 10 meters were used just short after C2 for a 70-degree steep icy wall.
  2 rolls of fixed rope were left at C3 for the final part of the ascent.

  Accidents:

  First stage of AMS at 3 for John and Sandra contracted during the night.

  Sherpas:
    Sirdar Furtemba Sherpa, (25/6/2041) 11 Oct 1984, Simigaon, Dolakha
    Angdu Sherpa, (25/5/2036) 10 Sept 1979, Simigaon, Dolakha
    Doma Sherpa, (5/2/2032) 19 May 1975, Kharikhola, Solukhumbu


expid: HIML12308
peakid: HIML
year: 2012
route1: W Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Mario Lacedelli
sponsor: Friends Expedition to Himlung 2012
ascent1: 45th
approach: Chame->Koto->Meta->Phu
bcdate: 2012-10-24
smtdate: 2012-10-31
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2012-11-03
campsites: BC(24/10,4800m),C1(26/10,5600m),C2(29/10,6100m),C3(30/10,6350m),Smt(31/10)
agency: Sherpa Adventure Travel
routememo:
  Costantini, Lacedelli, Pavanello, Rezzadore, Salla, Dawa and Damai started their summit push at 5 am on 31 Oct. Constantini turned around from 400m below the summit as he was tired. Rezzadore turned around to C3 from below 200m of summit as he too was tired. Salla reached summit at 11 am followed by Pavanello with Damai, Lacedelli with Dawa. They stayed on summit for 30 minutes and descended to C3 at 2 pm. They spent the night at C3. Next day 1 November, they went to BC. The weather was very good sunny and clear sky.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Sherpa, 16/6/69, Tamakhani-9, Loding 9, Solu, Everest X6, Makalu X1,
      Kangch X1
    Damai Chhiri Sherpa, 19/6/75, Sikli, Jubing-9, Solu, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X1,
      Kangch X1


expid: HIML12303
peakid: HIML
year: 2012
route1: W Ridge from SW
nation: Germany
leaders: Gunther Knauthe
sponsor: Diamir Himlung Expedition 2012
ascent1: 42nd
countries: Austria, Switzerland
approach: Koto->Meta->Kyang->Phugaon
bcdate: 2012-10-13
smtdate: 2012-10-26
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2012-10-29
campsites: BC(13/10,4700m),C1(16/10,5600m),C2(20/10,6100m),C3(25/10,6400m),Smt(26/10)
accidents: Several members' illnesses; Seeliger got slight frostbite on his fingertips and toes.
agency: Multi Adventure
routememo:
  The expedition reached the mountain by bus to Besisahar on 6 October then trekked up the Marshyangdi River to Nar Khola and Phu Khola to Phu village, and finally east from Phu some distance to their BC site, which they reached on 14 October.

  The team placed their C2 and C3 at 6200m and 6400m respectively, only 200 vertical meters apart, because of the long linear distance between them.

  From C3, six members and two Sherpas set out for the top at 6:30 am on 26 October. They were Abendroth, Boneff-Li, Klein, Koch, Schmidt and Seeliger, with Sherpas Lila and Jamba. They were on the summit at 2:30 pm, by which time the sky had become very cloudy, and were back in C3 at 6:30 pm.

  The expedition's leader, Knauthe, had also left for the top on the 26th, but he turned around at 7000m and returned to C3. He explained that he was too slow, too tired to continue towards the summit.

  All were back in BC on the 27th.

  Other non-summiting members:

  Feist reached C1 twice, but got not higher because he had the flu.

  Kaufmann also got no higher than C1, which he reached on 16 October. He had a chest infection and no motivation to continue the climb. He left BC on the 19th and went home.

  Kneist reached C1 twice and C2 once, but his case of flu caused him to stop climbing and remain in BC.

  Lechner got to C1, but lost all motivation to climb the mountain and left BC on 22 October with Wurst.

  Richter never reached BC.

  Wurst got to C1 once, but never slept there; she had a very bad cough and left the team with Lechner on 22 October.

  Sherpas:
    Jamba Sherpa, 18/5/79, Tapting, Solu, no 8000ers
    Lila Bahadur Tamang, 15/10/66 (1/3/2023), Sardikhola, Kaski, Everest X2, 
      Cho Oyu X1, Makalu X1


  Report from Knauthe (email to Billi) - 20 Feb 2013

  Summit 26 Oct by Lila, Jamba Sherpa, Koch at 2 pm, Abendroth at 2:30 pm, Klein at 3 pm, Boneff-Li, Schmid and Seeliger at 5:30 pm.

  Summit team left C3 at 6 am. The weather was calm but cloudy. They spent an average of about half an hour on the summit and descended to C3, where the last people arrived at 9:30 pm.

  Kneist reached C2 on 20 Oct; he did not carry on due to a bad cough and exhaustion.

  Lechner reached C1 on 16 Oct; he did not carry on due to diarrhea and was not really that keen on the climb as his priority was the trek-in.

  Wurst reached C1 on 16 Oct; she had a bad cough and did not carry on.

  Kaufmann and Feist reached C1 on 16 Oct; they were both mentally exhausted and not ready to climb the mountain.

  Richter never got out of BC; he suffered from a stomach bug and was mentally not prepared for the mountain.


expid: HIML12302
peakid: HIML
year: 2012
route1: W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Ryuseki Hiraoka
sponsor: Ryuseki Expeditions Himlung Expedition
ascent1: 43rd
approach: Marshyangdi River->Nan Khola->Phu Khola to Phu, then to BC
bcdate: 2012-10-13
smtdate: 2012-10-27
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2012-10-31
campsites: BC(13/10,4800m),C1(18/10,5500m),C2(19/10,6100m),C3(26/10,6400m),Smt(27/10)
accidents: Wariishi fingers getting numb from the cold
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  The summit party left C3 on 27 October at 4:00 am. They were Hiraoka, Izumi, Saito, Sakai, Takiguchi and Wariishi, plus Angdu, Nawang Kalden, Phur Temba and Sonam Finjo. Wariishi turned back after gaining only 200 meters because he had lost all feeling in his fingers. He returned to C3 that day, and on the 29th he took a helicopter to Kathmandu. Ms. Saito, who was tired and too slow, turned around at 6800m at 2:00 pm and got back to C3 at 6:00 pm.

  The other four members reached the summit at varying times. The first was Sakai, who was on the top at 3:00 pm. then came Izumi at 4:00 pm and Hiraoka and Ms. Takiguchi at 5:00 pm; Ms Takiguchi was a slow climber, so Hiroaka stayed with her.

  Ms. Takiguchi descended to C3 at 10 pm. The other three summiting members went down to C2 at 11:00 pm. All were back in BC on the 28th.

  All four Sherpas in the summit party reached the top.

  The only member who did not attempt the summit was Fujita, the team's oldest member. On 20 October he climbed up to 6300m, but returned to BC the same day. His fingers were swelling while he descended from C2 on his acclimatization rotation.  The next day, he helicoptered to Kathmandu and returned to Japan.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Angdu Sherpa, 18/9/74, Gaurishankar-3, Dolakha, Makalu X2
    Nawang Kalden Sherpa, 1991-2 (2048), Khumjung
    Phur Temba Sherpa, 1974-5 (2031), Phortse
    Sonam Finjo (aka Ang Finjo) Sherpa, 3/10/85 (17/6/2042), Khunde, Everest X4

  Sonam Finjo (aka Ang Finjo) Sherpa - 3/10/85 (17/6/2042), Kunde, Everest X4.


expid: KYAS12301
peakid: KYAS
year: 2012
route1: S Pillar
route2: W Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Antoine Pecher
sponsor: The Three Fantasies to Kyashar
approach: Hinku Valley
bcdate: 2012-11-03
smtdate: 2012-11-10
termdate: 2012-11-11
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to lack of sufficient bivouac gear
campsites: BC(03/11,4350m),Biv(09/11,5700m),xxx(10/11,6400m)
agency: Loben Expeditions
routememo:
  The team intended at first to climb the South Pillar of Kyashar, but the weather forecast engineer gave them wrong information predicting for them bad weather conditions. For that reason the team didn't try the South Pillar; even if the weather happened to be very beautiful, in fact with bad weather the retreat on the South Pillar would be very problematic and difficult.

  Thus even without a permit, the team decided to try the West Ridge which is less commited on the way down in bad weather. The team bivouacked 2 nights at 5700m reaching 6400m on the West Ridge on 10 Nov. They didn't have enough bivouac gear to sleep at 6400m, so had to turn back to Biv 1, and not even had time left to try it again. Morever, the same day they could watch from their Biv 3 lights on South Pillar of Kyashar. Apparently a Japanese team (confirmed by Paul Noble and Loben Sherpas) the day after they could see them again higher on the South Pillar. The expedition was over from there, the team was quite disappointed.


expid: KYAS12302
peakid: KYAS
year: 2012
route1: SSE Ridge up, W Ridge down
nation: Japan
leaders: Yasuhiro Hanatani
sponsor: Kyashar Climbing team
ascent1: 2nd
approach: Lukla->Hinku Valley, north to Tangnag
bcdate: 2012-10-22
smtdate: 2012-11-11
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2012-11-12
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak
accidents: Aoki hit by falling rock on 7 Nov at 5800m or 5900m
agency: Cosmo Treks
campsites:
  BC(22/10,4356m),Biv1(06/11,5200m),Biv2(07/11,5800m),Biv3(08/11,6100m),Biv4(09/11,6350m),Biv5(10/11,6500m)

routememo:
  BC   at Tangnag village lodge
  Biv1 at start of SSE Ridge on rock
  Biv2 on SSE Ridge on rock
  Biv3 on SSE Ridge on rock
  Biv4 on SSE Ridge on ice and snow
  Biv5 on SSE Ridge on ice and snow.

  The three Japanese established no fixed camps on the mountain, but bivouacked at five increasingly higher altitudes as they worked their way up the SSE Ridge to the summit. They left their last bivouac for the top on 11 November at 8:00 am and summited at 4:00 pm. They had climbed two pitches on rock at a small traverse, then two pitches on ice, and the fifth and final pitch a walk up a snow field to the summit.

  They then descended the West Ridge of snow and ice to a bivouac at 6250m, where they arrived at 9:00 pm, four hours after nightfall, "pretty tired," Hanatani said.

  The next day, 12 November, they left their final bivouac rather late, at 9:00 am, and descended all the way to the lodge at Tangnag village, which they had made their BC. They arrived at Tangnag at about 9:30 pm after another very long day.

  There had been three of four incidents of rockfall, which hurt no one. Hanatani described the climb as the best he'd ever had. The three members friendship had lasted for the entire long route of 40 pitches, 2400 meters surmounted from Tangnag to the summit on rock, snow and ice up a "beautiful line" in sunshine every day.


expid: LUNR12301
peakid: LUNR
year: 2012
route1: NE Face of subpeak of Lunag Ri range
nation: USA
leaders: Christopher Wright
sponsor: Wright-Unger Lunag Ri Expedition 2012
bcdate: 2012-11-13
smtdate: 2012-11-26
termdate: 2012-11-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6160m due to Unger's cold feet
othersmts: Climbed several lower subpeaks in the Lunag Ri range
campsites: BC(13/11,5100m),xxx(26/11,6160m)
agency: Climb High Himalaya
routememo:
  The two-member American team attempted peaks in the Lunag Ri range on the north and south side of the Lunag Glacier south-southwest of the Nangpa la. Since the Lunag peaks are not listed by the tourism ministry as open for climbing, the teams obtained a permit for nearby Jobo Rinjang, a peak which is open.

  Before they flew to Lukla to approach the Lunags, this team of Chris Wright and Geoff Unger did not know exactly which Lunag peak or peaks they would climb: they would find that out when they got into the mountains, they said. They made their BC on 13 November at 5100m on the south side of the Lunag Glacier and spent the next two weeks climbing peaks south of the Glacier while the other team of David Gottlieb and Chad Kellog were north of the glacier.

  On 16 November Wright and Unger scaled a 5777m peak close to their BC. On the 20th, Unger climbed to the top of Pt 5855m and back to BC the same day while Wright was not well. On the 26th, after strong wind abated, the two Americans attacked a peak 6589 meters high; they bivouacked at 6160m on its NE Face of snow and ice after having spent three hours digging a platform for their small tent, Unger's feet were getting seriously cold, so they rappelled down to BC at 5100m on the 27th and left on the 29th.


expid: MAKA12302
peakid: MAKA
year: 2012
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Adrian Ballinger
sponsor: Alpenglow Makalu Expedition 2012
countries: Canada, Latvia, Russia, Spain, USA
bcdate: 2012-09-15
smtdate: 2012-09-28
termdate: 2012-10-10
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to fierce wind
campsites: BC(15/09,4600m),ABC(18/09,5800m),C1(24/09,6300m),C2(26/09,6800m),xxx(28/09-05/10,7500m)
accidents: Olsen altitude problem
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  High point at 7500m just above Makalu La.

  Sherpas carried gear to the site for C3 at 7500m, just above the Makalu La, on several days between 28 September and 5 October. Ballinger went there on 5 October. This was the highest altitude gained by this team.

  All other members except Olsen made acclimatization trips to 7300m on four different days between 28 September and 5 October. But no one ever slept in C3 because fierce winds (over 100 km/hr) started blowing from 1 October.

  Olsen managed to reach C2 at 6800m on 26 September and slept there that night, but he had continuing altitude problems and now decided to quit climbing. He left the team on 1 October.

  Ballinger and Baranov skied down from 7200m to 5900m.

  Sherpas:
    Dorje Sonam Gyalzen, 24/5/1981, Phortse, Everest X15, Lhotse X1, Manaslu X3
    Nima Tshering (Ngima Chhiri), 22/4/72, Phortse, Everest X4, Lhotse X2, Manaslu X3
    Dawa Nuru (Danuru), 22/5/78, Phortse, Khumbu
    Palden Namgye/Namgyal, 20/9/72, Phortse, Annapurna X1, Everest X7, Lhotse X4,
      Manaslu X1
    Pasang [Rinji]


expid: MAKA12303
peakid: MAKA
year: 2012
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Anthony Dignan
sponsor: An Australian on Makalu
bcdate: 2012-09-07
smtdate: 2012-10-16
termdate: 2012-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 8050m due to strong wind
campsites: BC(07/09,5750m),C1(11/09,6400m),C2(16/09,6700m),C3(25/09,7400m),C4(15/10,8000m),xxx(16/10,8050m)
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
routememo:
  Dignan and his helper, Siddhi Bahadur Tamang, established only two fixed camps on Makalu: C1 at 6400m on 11 September and C4 at 8000m on 15 October for their final push to the summit. Thus C1 was their only fixed camp until summit day. All other "camps" were temporary camps as they moved up and down the mountain.

  It was the wind that defeated them. On their summit day, 16 October, it was blowing at 80-100 mph and it "affected" both men's fingers. (In addition, two weeks later Dignan still had wind-blown black patches on his face.)

  They gave up and turned around at 8050m and spent their summit day getting down to BC. (They left C4 at 8000m at 8:00 am to descend and were in BC at 9:00 pm.)

  When they left the mountain on 17 October, they had not one tent left intact, all had been shredded by the wind.

  Hired:
    Siddhi Bahadur Tamang, 7/6/81, Simigaon, Dolakha, Cho Oyu X1, Manaslu X1


expid: MAKA12304
peakid: MAKA
year: 2012
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Cleo Weidlich
sponsor: One Woman 14 Peaks Challenge to Makalu
bcdate: 2012-09-24
smtdate: 2012-10-17
termdate: 2012-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 8030m due to high winds
agency: Seven Summit Treks
campsites:
  BC(24/09),ABC(26/09,5800m),C1(28/09,6600m),C2(29/09,6850m),C3(30/09,7400m),C4(15/10,7600m),Biv(16/10,8000m),xxx(17/10,8030m)

routememo:
  Cleo Weidlich Interview with Elizabeth Hawley - 29 Oct 2012

  Weidlich and her Sherpa, Pema Tshering, made steady progress establishing camps up the mountain to 30 September, when they put C3 at the Makalu La at 7400m. From there, the normal route leads up the NW Ridge slightly on the north (Tibetan) side. Weidlich and Pema climbed on the north side and made a temporary C4 at 8000m at the foot of a "big mountain" on 1 October, then descended to BC on the 2nd to rest and to wait for the next window of good weather when the "terrible winds" would abate.

  On the 13th Weidlich returned to C2. Next day she met an Australian climber, Anthony (Tony) Dignan, and his Sherpa, Siddhi Bahadur Tamang, and they went together to the Makalu La (7400m). On the 15th she and Dignan and their Sherpas moved onto the Tibetan side to a big serac and put C4 at 7600m. On the 16th, Dignan's Sherpa had frostbitten fingers and he went down while Weidlich and Pema went to the foot of a couloir on the Tibetan side of Makalu and bivouacked at 8000m.

  Now the wind started picking up again. On the 17th they stayed in the bivouac, but Weidlich tried to go higher. She got only 30 meters above the bivouac, where she found a small red tent with two bodies inside. This was her highest point.

  They spent the nights of the 18th, 19th and 20th still in the bivouac with 150 km/hr wind buffeting their tent. On the 21st they had run out of food and cooking gas with which to melt snow to drink. So on the 21st at 4:30 am they left the bivouac and until 3:00 pm they battled the wind and waist-deep snow to reach their C4 at 7600m. The next day, the 22nd, they got to C3, and on the 23rd at 3:00 am they started down and reached ABC at 11:00 pm.

  "I was really in bad shape" now, she said. She had no energy to walk and was mildly frosbitten on her face, slightly more seriously on the tips of her fingers, which were black. Pema also had frostbitten hands and toes plus imminent cerebral edema. On 24 October she and Pema flew by helicopter from ABC to Kathmandu, where she checked in CIWEC clinic.

  Sherpa:
    Pema Tshering, 16/6/70, Mathilow, Walung, Makalu-Barun, Lhotse X1, Kangch X1


  Note: Following her 29 Oct 2012 interview with Elizabeth Hawley, Cleo Weidlich has stated that she did summit Makalu: on her website blog, to Rodolphe Popier a few days later, and again to Elizabeth Hawley in April 2013. But sufficient details of her summit claim are still lacking. Her summit status may be changed in the future upon receipt of further information.


expid: MANA12327
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Johann Wenzl
sponsor: Wenzl Manaslu Expedition
approach: Arughat->Sotikhola->Jagat
bcdate: 2012-09-11
smtdate: 2012-09-29
smttime: 1345
termdate: 2012-10-02
campsites: BC(11/09,4800m),C2(18/09,6300m),Smt(29/09)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  He left C2 at 1:00 am in the morning on the 29 September and arrived at summit between 1:30-2:00 pm. He stayed on the summit for one and half hour and went back to C2, reached there at 8:30 pm and slept there. On 30 September he woke up at 6:30 am, left around at 7 am and arrived back at BC at 11:00 am.


expid: MANA12328
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Marti Gasull
sponsor: Spanish Manaslu Autumn 2012
bcdate: 2012-09-06
smtdate: 2012-09-23
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to fatal avalanche
campsites: BC(06/09,4800m),C3(23/09,6800m),xxx(23/09,6800m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Karma Sherpa was also sleeping at C3 and got swept to C2, but survived and was not injured.

  Sherpa:
    Karma Sherpa, 30/8/1986, Makalu-5, Sankhuwasabha

accidents:
  Fatal avalanche swept tent and Gasull and Karma were sleeping in it; it carried them down to 6000m killing Gasull (says Tashi 15/2/13)


expid: MANA12329
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Tatsuo Matsumoto
sponsor: Manaslu Expedition
approach: Arughat->Samagaon
bcdate: 2012-09-17
smtdate: 2012-10-01
smttime: 0745
termdate: 2012-10-03
campsites: BC(17/09,4700m),C1(21/09,5100m),C2(26/09,6700m),C4(30/09,7300m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  He left C4 together with Heather McWalter for summit. At 7:45 am he arrived on summit and stayed there for 1 to 3 minutes, then left summit at 7:50 am and reached C3 at 2:00 pm and rested there.

  Sherpa:
    Pema Sherpa, 35 years old


expid: MANA12330
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: UK
leaders: Heather McWalter
sponsor: Snowy Horizon Manaslu 2012
countries: Germany, Poland, Switzerland
approach: Arughat->Sotikhola->Macchakhola->Deng->Jagat
bcdate: 2012-09-14
smtdate: 2012-10-01
smttime: 0940
termdate: 2012-10-03
campsites: BC(14/09,4750m),C1(17/09,5100m),C3(29/09,6700m),C4(30/09,7300m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  Raymond got to the base camp and felt sick (stomach), so he abandoned the climb on the 17th. Celine got scared since one of her good friends had died on avalanche, so she quit 4 or 5 days after the avalanche with her Sherpa Thendorje. Robert left 6 days after the avalanche, he walked up to C1, but got scared so turned around as well. He went out in a helicopter with his Sherpa. 

  Heather and Tatsuo Matsumoto left C4 at 1:40 am. Heather reached summit at 9:40 am without oxygen, spent 20 minutes on summit and left at 10:00 am. She reached C3 at 4:00 pm and slept there. They left C3 at 7 am (on descent) and arrived at BC at 12:00 pm.


expid: MANA12332
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Sweden
leaders: Ersun Kurtulus
sponsor: A Swede on Manaslu
approach: By helicopter directly into Samagaon
bcdate: 2012-09-09
smtdate: 2012-09-18
termdate: 2012-09-28
termnote: Abandoned at 5700m due to decision of the team (he personally wanted to continue)
campsites: BC(09/09,4800m),C1(18/09,5700m),xxx(18/09,5700m)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  Team arrived at Samagaon on 6th.

  Many Sherpas and those focused more on Everest wanted to cancel expedition; about 50 percent of groups continued and 50 percent cancelled.

  Ersun was dependent on Rolwaling Excursions support. Sherpa Jit Bahadur and Ersun were not prepared to continue independently.

  Jit Babu Sherpa felt frustrated; already paid Sherpa and they decided to cancel. Sherpa was working for Rolwaling Excursions.


  Permit:

  Torbjorn Hallstrom took a joint permit with Ersun Kurtulus and 5 other members (international), the latter not dealing with Rolwaling Excursions agency. 15 Sherpas from Rolwaling Excursions led by Tashi Sherpa had to manage the Chinese group (leader Sang Zhu), Ersun and Torbjorn, and to put up the altitude camps and fix the rope. After that 13 Sherpas especially took care of the Chinese, and two especially for Torbjorn (Pemba Rita Sherpa) and Ersun (Jit Bahadur Sherpa).


expid: MANA12333
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Marc Mary
sponsor: Single on Manaslu
approach: Arughat->Samagaon
bcdate: 2012-09-11
smtdate: 2012-09-30
termdate: 2012-10-04
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to exhaustion, lack of equipment and lack of time
agency: Himalayan Trailblazer
campsites:
  BC(11/09,4400m),C1(19/09,5545m),C2(28/09,6300m),C3(29/09,6900m),C4(30/09,7400m),xxx(30/09,01/10,7400m)

routememo:
  Marc Mary went up at C2 on the 23rd of September, but was forced to go down back to BC after the avalanche. After that most the teams at BC were pessimistic: 80 percent of them left due to the mountain guides or leader agencies decisions, with a lot of helicopter flights from the day after.

  On the 30th of September, Marc Mary slept well at C4 with oxygen, but had not recovered enough. (n fact Mary wanted to use the snail technique but had to carry too much from BC to C4, his old personnal equipment being too heavy (shoes 4 kgs, bag 4 Kgs). So when at 3 am his Sherpa proposed to him to try for the summit, Marc Mary just said no and both went down on the 1st of October. But what Mary didn't know is that for his Sherpa, his "no" meant that the expedition was over. On the contrary, Marc Mary took a long period for his expedition to have more attempts, so he was a bit disappointed when his Sherpa told him it was finished when both were back at the BC.

  Sherpa:
    Lama Babu Sherpa, (2035/6/8) 24 Sept 1978, Cheremy, Bung-9, Solu

  Oxygen:
   
  In theory Marc Mary had 2 oxygen bottles, one for the way up from 7000m, one for the way down from the summit to 7000m. But in fact, he used this oxygen as well to sleep at C4.


expid: MANA12334
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Iran
leaders: Jalal Cheshmeh Ghasabani
sponsor: Iran Manaslu Expedition
approach: Arughat->Samagaon
bcdate: 2012-09-27
smtdate: 2012-10-01
termdate: 2012-10-14
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to bad snow and glacier conditions
campsites: BC(27/09,4700m),C1(29/09,5300m),C2(30/09,6400m),xxx(01/10,6900m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Schedule of ascent:

  1. Acclimatization, 1st time up: slept at C1 on 29th of September, then slept at C2 on 30th of September, reached the C3 site the 1st of October; entire team spent an hour there and went back to the base camp.

  2. Second attempt: on 8th of October entire team slept at C1, then reached C2 the day after and had to go back to the base camp. Difficult to get through the crevasses, very opened on the glacier and lots of snow.

  3. Third and last attempt: entire team slept again at C1 on 12th of October, then reached nearly C2 on 13th of October. This day they decided to abandon the climb: too windy, too much snow and too many crevasses.

  Oxygen was planned to be used from C4 (sleeping) to summit and back to C4. They didn't use it because they couldn't climb above C3 site. 


expid: MANA12336
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Laurent Vivien-Raguet
sponsor: Manaslu Adventure Expedition 2012
approach: Arughat->Samagaon
bcdate: 2012-10-05
smtdate: 2012-10-12
termdate: 2012-10-14
termnote: Abandoned at 5850m due to deep snow, windslabs, crevasses
campsites: BC(05/10,4850m),C1(08/10,5750m),xxx(12/10,5850m)
agency: Adventure 6000
routememo:
  Schedule ascent:
   
  On 8th and 9th of October: the team slept at C1 for acclimatization and went back to BC.

  On 12th of October: aiming to reach C3 in the day coming, the team met a huge windslab just under C1. From C1, Vivien-Raguet went first alone with his 3 Sherpas for C2, but it was just a lot of fresh snow (snow until middle of the legs, sometimes to the hips) with huge crevasses everywhere! Then 4 groups joined (Iranians, Polish, Ecuadorians, Argentineans and other Sherpas) and tried again to climb with a ladder but never reached C2.

  Then Vivien-Raguet just took any gear left on the mountain and went back to the BC. The news from the weather forecast engineer being quite bad for the day after, with no summit day opportunity at all for the next days, he decided to abandon the climb and leave BC the day after.

  1 member left BC the 11th of October: Sydney Dalmayrac.

  3 other members left BC the 13th of October: Paul-Andre Braun, Fabien Cyrille, Bruno Puntel.

  Oxygen: Oxygen not used; hyperbaric chamber at BC.

  Sherpas:
    Sirdar Keshap Gurung, 31 March 1979, Laprak-4, Gorkha
    Iman Gurung, 14 March 1981, Laprak, Gorkha
    Dambar Gurung, 2 Aug 1980, Laprak-Gorkha


expid: MANA12337
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Serge Bazin
sponsor: Manaslu Cho Oyu Trekking 2012
approach: Via Samagaon
bcdate: 2012-09-11
smtdate: 2012-09-23
termdate: 2012-09-26
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to avalanche with loss of 3 friends
campsites: BC(11/09,4800m),C1(22/09,5800m),xxx(23/09,6600m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Serge and his client shared a common permit with Ecuadorian team of Ivan Vallejo and Italian of Alberto Magliano. The leader for all that joint expedition was the oldest member, Alberto Magliano. They were 15 climbers for this expedition.

  Bazin and his customer just went to C1 to try, but then were back directly to BC. The customer left before the avalanche because Bazin couldn't guarantee him the snow mantle stability above 6500m (Serge Bazin believes its possible to predict snow conditions until 7000-7500m, but beyond you just have to go there to know if its Ok or not).

  Reasons to abandon:
   
  There were 6 mountain guides taken in the avalanche, and Bazin lost 3 collegues and friends amongst them (Gregory Costa, Remi Lecluse and Ludovic Challeat). During the day 23 and 24th, he spent his time searcing for the dead bodies. He thought if something happened to him what would happen to his family. Then he decided to abandon the climb on 25th the same day he went up again with Sherpas to clear the camps and the day after he was back in Samagaon.

  Acclimatization:
   
  For the way up, Bazin uses an acclimatization strategy between classic technique (up and down and up and down each time higher) and a snail technique (as Paulo Grobel uses it for his teams: slow way up, a bit more each day, many camps). Bazin goes up and down one time to BC, then uses the snail technique.

  Oxygen:

  Everybody had one security bottle including altitude Sherpas, so for every 4 of them.

  Equipment:

  From BC to C1: 60% ropes fixed 80% of the glacier, something like more than 3.5 kms on the 4 kms walked on it. Then 10 to 15% of the trail besides the glacier are equipped as well. Each expedition had to pay Russell Brice's Sherpas a $50 fee and they gave as well some gear for free.

  From C1 to C2: 90% is equipped after 100m just all the way is equipped with fixed ropes, ladders etc.

  After C2 all was destroyed by the avalanche, so he couldn't tell about fixed ropes above.


expid: MANA12338
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Aldo Riveros
sponsor: Crazy Team 2012
approach: Arughat->Samagaon
bcdate: 2012-09-13
smtdate: 2012-09-30
smttime: 1015
termdate: 2012-10-02
campsites: BC(13/09,4800m),C1(26/09,5500m),C2(27/09,6400m),C3(28/09,6700m),C4(29/09,7400m),Smt(30/09)
agency: Khumbu Shangri-La Nepal
routememo:
  Francoise Dantal stopped at C1 because the stress of the avalanche, he was feeling very bad. On the 26th waited at base camp.

  Jacques Dantal left C4 at 2:45 am and arrived at summit at 7:15 am, stayed on summit for 20 minutes, left summit at 7:45 am, slept at C2 at 7:00 pm. He left C2 on the 31st at 8:00 am and arrived at BC 1:00 pm.

  Ducerf stopped at C1 because he knew Remy and they were close friends and he decided not to go to the summit because he lost Remy as a friend (lived very close to Remy); he could have gone to summit as he was on good shape.

  On 28 September at 10:30 am Narcy turned around because he passed the accident scene and saw the remnants from accident.

  Riveros climbed with Jacques Dantal.

  Sherpas:
    Mingma Tenjing Sherpa, (2049/2/28) 10/6/92, Phortse
    Mingma Tshering/Chhiring, (2029/1/14) 26/4/72, Phortse
    Mingma Dorje, (2037/5/14) 30/8/80, Makalu-5

  Note: Aldo Riveros web site gives summit time as 10:15 (sun angle confirms this); web site has photos showing two Sherpas on the summit (Ministry lists Mingma Tenjing and Mingma Tshering as summiters). One photo appears to be Mingma Tenjing. Only Dantal used oxygen.


expid: MANA12340
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Sebastian Haag
sponsor: Manaslu Autumn 2012
countries: Canada
approach: By helicopter directly to Samagaon
bcdate: 2012-09-06
smtdate: 2012-09-30
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2012-10-01
campsites: BC(06/09,4950m),C1(08/09,5900m),C2(09/09,6500m),Smt(30/09)
agency: Ramdung Expedition
routememo:
  Domi Sherpa (the mountain guide), Hill, Lechner and Sichert abandoned climb early due to avalanche. Families were worried for their safety. They left base camp on 25 Sept and went back to Germany 26 Sept.

  Pade left base camp 29 Sept at 8:00 am for C2 and he arrived at C2 at 2:00 pm. There he waited and rested until 11:00 pm when Boehm and Haag arrived at C2. Then they all left camp and together at 11:30 pm for the summit. At around 1:30-2:00 pm Pade decided to turn around (he was about 80m below the summit) and skied down (arrived at BC around 6:30-7pm on 30 Sept).

  Haag left base camp on 29 Sept at 6:00 pm arrived C2 at 11:30 pm and picked up Pade to continue on to summit. Climbed through night to try to summit. On 30 Sept at 12:30 (100m below the summit), he decided to turn around and ski down. He was cold and tired. He turned back knowing he needed the energy to ski down, arrived at BC at 6:30-7 pm.

  Boehm left base camp on 29 Sept at 6:00 pm with Haag, arrived at C2 to pick up Pade around 11:30-12:00 pm and then continued on to climb. He made it to the summit at 11:00 am, left the summit at 11:25 pm (he was on summit for 25 minutes), then decided to ski down and arrived at BC 6:30-7:00 pm on 30 Sept.

  Ski-down descent details:

  Snow conditions very bad. They started to ski down from where Pade decided to turn around (8050m) to C4 (7400m). At C4 the skiers thought they would have to put on crampons and climb down, because on the way up there was a lot of black ice. However after the fixed rope below C4 they realized they could continue to ski down (big ramp to the side side of the fixed rope) and at 7000m they traversed to C3. From C3 there was a lot of debris from the accident and had to be careful not to fall. From C2 to C1 it was very warm and the snow bridges were melting and breaking and the snow was soft (skied all the way until the end of the glacier to the skiers' left side (10 minutes from base camp). Skied every where except 100m vertical from C4 (7400m) until 7300m. Skiing the first 100m vertical from summit, thinks it is possible to ski down the entire mountain.

  Note: This team originally intended to climb Cho Oyu, but switched to Manaslu since Cho Oyu was closed for the season.


expid: MANA12341
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Alberto Magliano
sponsor: Italian Manaslu Expedition
bcdate: 2012-09-06
smtdate: 2012-09-22
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to fatal avalanche
campsites: BC(06/09,4800m),C1(10/09,5700m),C2(15/09,6200m),C3(22/09,6700m),xxx(22/09,6700m)
accidents: Magliano and Dawa Dorje died in the avalanche
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Three members of the team, Gobbi, Magliano and Mondinelli, established their C3 at 6700m on 22 September. At 4:00 [4:45] am the next morning, when most people were asleep in their tents, a big serac fell from above the team's C3. Magliano and Dawa Dorje were occupying one tent, and the avalanche set off by the serac buried them 1.5 meters under snow. They were found after two hours of probing; both were dead.

  All tents at C2 (6200m) were destroyed by the blast of air caused by the avalanche, but no one was hurt.

  Dalla Rosa had left Magliano's team on 12 September for family reasons. So the surviving members were Gobbi and Mondinelli.

  Sherpa:
    Dawa Dorje, 22/8/83, Pangboche, Everest X3


expid: MANA12343
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Poland
leaders: Zbigniew Bak
sponsor: Polish Manaslu Expedition 2012
approach: By bus from Kathmandu to Arughat
bcdate: 2012-09-18
smtdate: 2012-09-22
termdate: 2012-10-13
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to bad conditions
campsites: BC(18/09,4700m),C1(21/09,6400m),xxx(22/09,7300m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Problems with Sherpa (first Sherpa left team and went back to Kathmandu).

  Sherpas:
    Ritemba Sherpa (40 years old), Sankhuwasabha 
    Karma Sherpa (35 year old)


expid: MANA12344
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Cesare Cesa Bianchi
sponsor: Mountain Kingdom Manaslu Expedition 2012
bcdate: 2012-09-11
smtdate: 2012-09-30
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2012-10-05
campsites: BC(11/09,4800m),C1(14/09,5800m),C2(22/09,6350m),C3(29/09,7000m),Smt(30/09)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  A low C2 was established at 6350m on 22 September. Those in the camp the next morning felt the wind created by a fatal avalanche, but it caused no damage to this team. However, those in the camp went down to BC and two left the team afterwards.

  Only one of the team's members got to the top. Two others also took part in the final summit push, which began on 27 September from BC to C1, on the 28th to C2, on the 29th to C3 and on the 30th tried for the summit.

  The summit party left C3 at 7000m for the top at 00:30 am of the 30th. They were Machhetto, Monaco and Vittorangeli, plus Phu Nuru Sherpa. But only Macchetto summited: he was on the top at 11:30 am and returned to C3 at 4:30 pm.

  Monaco reached 8000m, put on his skis and attempted a ski descent. Monaco skied down from 8000m to C3, and waited there for Macchetto to come safely off the summit. He then skied to C2 (6350m) at 5:30 pm and on 1 October skied from C2 for 150m, walked to C1 (5800m) and skied again to 5000m.  A continuous ski descent is not possible because of many seracs. 

  Vittorangeli got to 7750m, but then turned around to avoid getting frostbitten; Phu Nuru turned back with her. She descended to C2.

  Other members:

  Barbieri managed to get to only C1 on 14 September because of an old back problem; she left the team on the 28th.

  Bianchi went up to C1 on the 14th and C2 on the 22nd, then the fatal avalanche occured on the 23rd, and because of it he left the mountain on about the 28th.

  Cesa Bianchi also went up to C2 on the 22nd. He then developed a stomach problem and stayed in BC for the rest of the climbing period.

  Guido Spinelli joined the party going to C2 on the 22nd, but the fatal avalanche on the 23rd made him decide to leave. He took a helicopter to Kathmandu and went home.

  Silvano Spinelli got to C1 on the 14th, but left on the 20th by helicopter to return home to go back to work.

  Sherpas:
    Phu Nuru, 16/5/80, Phortse, Cho Oyu X7, Everest X5


expid: MANA12345
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Marco Confortola
sponsor: Manaslu 2012
bcdate: 2012-09-13
smtdate: 2012-09-30
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2012-10-02
campsites: BC(13/09,4840m),C1(17/09,5800m),C2(20/09,6480m),C3(24/09,6790m),C4(29/09,7460m),Smt(30/09)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  C3 was pitched at 6790m on 21 September, but occupied for only night and the next day all down in BC; this was part of their acclimatization program. On the 23rd, when a fatal avalanche struck some teams, they were still safely in BC.

  But three members left the mountain on the 25th because of the avalanche: Bozio, Tamilla and Tosi had now lost all motivation for the climb.

  On the 25th, Curnis went up to C1 while the team's only "Sherpa," Pasang Lama Bhote, went higher to see what was left of their C3. He found just one sleeping bag. They went back to BC that day and Pasang Lama and remaining members of team rested there on the 26th and 27th.

  On the 28th the three men climbed to C2, and the next day they went up to C4. On the 30th they went for the top. Curnis, Confortola and Pasang Lama left C4 at 3:00 am and were on the summit at 9:00 am. They returned to C4 at 1:00 pm, stayed for two hours, and descended all the way to BC at 7:00 pm.

  Hired:
    Pasang Lama Bhote, 17/10/84, Hatiya-1, Makalu-Barun, Everest X3, Lhotse X2,
      Makalu X1, Manaslu X1


expid: MANA12346
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Ecuador
leaders: Santiago Quintero
sponsor: South American Expedition to Manaslu
countries: Argentina
bcdate: 2012-09-21
smtdate: 2012-09-30
termdate: 2012-10-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to bad weather, windy and snowfall
campsites: BC(21/09,4800m),C1(25/09,5800m),C2(29/09,6270m),C3(30/09,6800m),xxx(30/09,6800m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C3 not slept in
  High point at C3 site.

  On 30 September, Quintero and Wilke went to the site for C3 at 6800m as part of their acclimatization program. They left some gear, but did not sleep there.

  On 1 October they were down in BC. Bad weather now set in with heavy snowfall. On the 5th they decided to go back up the mountain. However, as they got 20 meters below their C1 at 5800m, an avalanche came down. It did not hit them, but they immediately descended to BC and did not venture above it again.


expid: MANA12348
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: UK
leaders: Phil Crampton
sponsor: Altitude Junkies Manaslu Expedition 2012
countries: Canada, China, Denmark, Lithuania, Russia, USA
bcdate: 2012-09-10
smtdate: 2012-10-01
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2012-10-03
campsites: BC(10/09,4900m),C1(21/09,5800m),C2(22/09,6400m),C3(29/09,6900m),C4(30/09,7450m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Expedition Himalaya
routememo:
  The avalanche that fatally struck some teams in the morning of 23 September did no damage to this team, but its blast did move their tents, with all of the team's members inside, five meters.

  On 1 October, eight members and ten Sherpas left C4 for the top at 2:00 am. One member, Phillips, turned around at 7700m: he was not on oxygen, and was very tired, and had been unnerved by the avalanche. Two Sherpas turned around with him. The rest of the summit party reached the top between 8:00 and 9:45 am and descended to C3 between 1:00 and 4:00 pm. All were in BC on the 2nd.

  Some of the successful members climbed with oxygen, some without. They were Belanger (at 8:05 am on oxygen), Nichols (8:00 am on oxygen), Neilsen (8:00 am on oxygen), Mikhanovskaia (8:00 am on oxygen) and Trieu (9:45 am, no oxygen).

  Members who did use oxygen turned it on in C4, went to the summit with it and turned it off back in C2.

  Other non-summiting members:

  Bonner reached C1 when it was first occupied on 21 September, but he lost all motivation to continue climbing and left in a helicopter on the 25th.

  Bye got to C2 but the left team on the 26th. Apparently his experience at the time of the avalanche on the 23rd made him decide to leave: he was moved 30 feet by the blast.

  Harris also got to C2 on the 22nd, but he lost his boots in the avalanche. He left on the 25th.

  Huang also left on the 25th after having gotten to C2 of the 22nd. The avalanche unnerved him, and his 10-year-old child asked to come home.

  Reisinger also was unnerved by the avalanche after having reached C2 on the 22nd, and he left the team on the 25th.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Ang Gelu, 23/7/70, Surke, Chaurikharka-4, Solu, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Changba Nurbu, 1964, Tate, Chaurikharka-7, Solu, Everest X8, Cho Oyu X1, 
      Dhaulagiri X1, Manaslu X1
    Lhakpa Dorje
    Nuri
    Pasang Nima, 28/1/74, Chaurikharka, Solu, Everest X2
    Pasang Wangchu, 25/4/87, Cheremy, Bung-9, Solu, Everest X2, Manaslu X1
    Tarke, 1967, Lokhim, Solu, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X5, Lhotse X1, Manaslu X2
    Sange, 20/9/73, Sotang-6, Solu, Everest X3


expid: MANA12349
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Colombia
leaders: Victor Correa
sponsor: An independent on Manaslu
bcdate: 2012-09-21
smtdate: 2012-09-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6270m due to member's disappearance
campsites: BC(21/09,4800m),C1(25/09,5800m),C2(29/09,6270m),xxx(29/09,02/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Correa's trekking agency, Thamserku Trekking, considered him to be a member of the team led by Santiago Quintero since they were on the same permit. But actually Correa was independent of Quintero's expedition.

  He arrived at BC on 21 September with the Quintero team and climbed up to C1 and C2 with them on the 25th and 29th. On his arrival at C1, he seemed to be seriously ill with cerebral edema, although Quintero suspects that he was faking his edema. In any case, two members of the team brought him down to BC, and he went to the nearest village, Samagaon.

  On 1 October he climbed back up to C1 without telling anyone he was going up. On the 2nd he went up to C2 alone and on the 3rd he was still in C2. No one knows his movements after that.

  Deep snow prevented search for him; no teams went above C1 at this time and a lot of gear was abandoned. No one knows were Correa went and where his body may be. Correa's family asked Carlos Wilke, a member of Quintero's team who lives in Colombia, to go by helicopter to C2, but on 8 October there was such a deep snow, landing at C2 was not possible, and Wilke could see no trace of Correa from the air.

  In December, a member of Thamserku Trekking's Kathmandu office confirmed that neither had Correa reappeared nor his body found.


expid: MANA12347
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Stephan Keck
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Manaslu Expedition 2012
countries: Germany, Switzerland
bcdate: 2012-09-06
smtdate: 2012-09-29
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2012-09-30
campsites: BC(06/09,4800m),C1(11/09,5800m),C2(12/09,6200m),C3(28/09,6800m),Smt(29/09)
accidents: Pangratz's bronchitis
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  This team was not hit by the fatal avalanche that took 11 lives on other expeditions. The avalanche occured on 23 September; this expedition didn't arrive at their C3 until five days later.

  The summit party consisted of Huber, Keck, Maier, Schiestl and Thorens, plus Pemba Norbu. They left C3 for the top at 1:00 am on the 29th of September. Thorens climbed too slowly and turned around at 8000m while the rest of the group continued to the summit and arrived there between 1:00 and 2:00 pm. They returned to C3 at 8:00 pm.

  Other non-summiting members:

  Blinzler was not in good enough condition to climb the mountain. He got to C1 on 11 September, then left the team on about the 14th go to trekking.

  Held was sick with a lung problem, reached C1, then left the mountain with Thanner.

  Pangratz got to C1, then develeped bronchitis and left the team on 24 September.

  Sporer went up to C1 at 5800m, but no higher because the fatal avalanche on 23 September worried him.

  Thanner reached C3 (6800m), but went down to BC afterwards and left with Pangratz on the 24th.

  Waelti also got as high as C3, but descended to BC from there.

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Norbu, 6/12/78, Ghunsa, Lelep-9, Taplejung, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X2


expid: MANA12342
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Remy Lecluse
sponsor: Manaslu Expedition
countries: UK, USA
bcdate: 2012-09-01
smtdate: 2012-09-22
termdate: 2012-09-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to fatal avalanche
campsites: BC(01/09,4708m),C1(05/09,5700m),C2(11/09,6200m),C3(22/09,6800m),xxx(22/09)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  The expedition's high point was C3, which had been pitched at 6800m on 22 September by their two Sherpas, Dorje Gyalzen and Lhakpa Wangchu. The Sherpas went down to BC that day, the 22nd, while the three climbing members, Costa, Lecluse and Plake, stayed there that night.

  Early the next morning a serac fell above C3 and set off a slab avalanche that was fatal. Costa and Plake were in one tent, Lecluse in another. Plake was the only survivor: he was hit by the side of his tent, swept down 300-400m and ended up in a crevasse, badly bruised all over his body. But he was not buried by the debris; he was conscious, but dazed; he managed to crawl out of the crevasse. Costa who shared the same tent, had "totally disappeared," said Plake. Lecluse, his separated tent and all its contents including Lecluse, had also vanished.

  Plake descended from C2 to BC on oxygen and left the mountain as quickly as possible. He flew out of Samagaon in a helicopter on the 26th.

  Sherpas:
    Dorje Gyalzen, 16/7/82, Pangboche, Everest X10, Manaslu X2, Cho Oyu X1
    Lhakpa Wangchu, 23/10/86, Pangboche, Everest X8, Manaslu X3, Lhotse X1


expid: MANA12339
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Manaslu Expedition 2012
countries: Belgium, Germany, Japan, USA
bcdate: 2012-09-02
smtdate: 2012-09-30
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2012-10-04
campsites: BC(02/09,4700m),C1(08/09,5604m),C2(13/09,6336m),C3(27/09,6916m),C4(29/09,7439m),Smt(30/09)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  The fatal avalanche path on 23 September was the same path as that of an earlier one before the teams arrived. Furthermore, the event of the 23rd occured after new snow had accumulated. If the affected teams had been alert to this, they would have placed their tents at C3 200 meters to the right and been in a safer location. But in any case, they should not have been up there with that amount of snow on the mountain.

  This team in their acclimatization program visited C2 site on 14 September, but did not sleep there then. They returned to BC the next day. During the next days, a lot of snow fell, so they stayed in BC. They started up for the summit from BC on 26 September.

  The summit was reached on 30 September by nine members and 11 Sherpas: Friedrich, Gomi, Hasler, Ishikawa, Kobayashi, Saito, Smets, Tamura and Woodward, plus Sherpas Gyalzen Dorje, Lhakpa Nuru, Nawang Tenzing, Nima Tenzing, Pasang Nima, Phura Cheten, Phurba Tashi, Rita Dorje, Son Dorje, Tshering Tashi and Urkien Lendu.

  Non-summiting members:

  Brice as his policy, he remained at BC throughout the climb.

  Franck reached C2 on 13 September with the other members, but was not acclimatizing and went no higher.

  Motoike got to C2 on 13 September, but was not acclimatizing and did not go above it.

  Oxygen was used by the members from C3 to the summit down to wherever their supplies ran out. Their Sherpas used it in C4 to the top, and most of them stopped using it at C3.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Gyalzen Dorje, 17/2/88, Phortse, Everest X2, Manaslu X2, Lhotse X2
    Lhakpa Nuru, 18/6/80, Phortse, Everest X8, Manaslu X2
    Nawang Tenzing, 20/11/93, Phortse, Everest X1, Manaslu X1
    Nima Tenzing, 26/4/91 (13/1/2048), Phortse, Everest X1, Manaslu X1
    Pasang Nima, 1/10/92, Phortse, Everest X3
    Fura Chhetan, 29/8/82 (13/5/2040), Phortse
    Phurba Tashi, 24/5/71, Khumjung, Everest X19, Cho Oyu X5, Manaslu X2, Lhotse X1
    Rita Dorje, 24/10/77, Phortse, Everest X8, Manaslu X2
    Son Dorje, 22/5/63, Phortse, Everest X10, Manaslu X3
    Tshering Tashi, 30/4/80, Khunde, Everest X4
    Urkien Lendu, 10/2/93, Phortse, Everest X1, Manaslu X1


expid: MANA12335
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: USA
leaders: Ryan Waters
sponsor: Mountain Professionals Manaslu 2012
countries: Norway, Sweden
bcdate: 2012-09-10
smtdate: 2012-10-01
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2012-10-03
campsites: BC(10/09,4500m),C1(14/09,5300m),C2(15/09,6400m),C4(30/09,7400m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Himalayan Trailblazer
routememo:
  On 23rd September, when the team was on its way to establish C3, they heard about the fatal avalanche that day, and all five members and Chhiri Dorje turned around and went down to BC.

  They all returned to C1 on the 27th and next day made C2 at last. On the 29th went up to C3 site for acclimatization and back to C2 the same day. On the 30th they skipped C3 and made C4.

  On 1 October all the members went to the summit, and with them were their three Sherpas. The party left C4 at 4:00 am, were on the top at 10:00 am, and descended to C2 at 6:00 pm.

  The five members used oxygen from C4 to the summit and back to C2. Their Sherpas used none.

  Sherpas:
    Chhiring/Tshering Dorje, 3/3/89 (20/11/2045), Beding, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X3,
      Manaslu X1
    Lhakpa Gyalzen, 24/1/92 (10/10/2048), Jubing, Solu
    Pema Tshering/Tshering, 17/12/83 (2/9/2040), Beding, Everest X9, Lhotse X1,
      Cho Oyu X3


expid: MANA12331
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Canada
leaders: Jocelyn Anne Seagram
sponsor: Manaslu 2012
bcdate: 2012-09-14
smtdate: 2012-10-01
termdate: 2012-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to Seagram's edema
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak on 27 Oct
campsites: BC(14/09,4876m),C1(21/09,5300m),C2(27/09,6800m),C3(29/09,6900m),xxx(01/10,7100m)
agency: Adventure Magic
routememo:
  Seagram and Pasang Gombu established C3 on 29 September, but the wind was so strong that the tent was blown away, and they had to sleep in their C2 that night. They set up another tent at C3 at 6900m.  

  On 1 October they attempted to make C4 at 7100m, but they got only halfway there. Seagram developed peripheral edema (swollen face and hands). They descended to C2 instead, and on the 2nd they went down to BC. The climb was over.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Gombu Sherpa, 25/11/69, Lokhim-9, Solu


expid: PK4112301
peakid: PK41
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: UK
leaders: Rob Greenwood
sponsor: Peak 41 North Face Expedition
bcdate: 2012-10-12
smtdate: 2012-10-25
termdate: 2012-10-26
termnote: Abandoned at 5840m due to sugar snow
campsites: BC(12/10,6450m),Biv(24/10,5650m),xxx(25/10,5840m)
agency: Loben Expeditions
routememo:
  Bivouac at top of couloir
  High pt at top of a ridge on NE Face.

  The two-man team approached the mountain (known as the true Mera Peak) from Lukla and an eight-day trek to BC; they crossed the Zatrwa La and from Tangnag village across the Mera La, north up the Hinku Valley to BC in the Nup Hinku Valley.

  From BC, which they established on 12 October, they spent the first week acclimatizing by climbing some hills in the area and with a member of the British Hunku team, Gary Smith, trekked to the West Col near the normal site for Baruntse base camp. Then back to Peak 41 BC and two days rest.

  On 23 Oct the two Britons set out to scale Peak 41. They left BC at 5:20 am to cross a large moraine field, which once was the Hunku Tang Glacier but no longer a glacier, to the base of a 600m long couloir on the NE Face of the mountain. Their first pitch was on very thin ice, which was climbable but without any protection: the ice was too thin and the rock underneath broke up when hit. They bivouacked here at the top of the couloir at 5650m at 5:15 pm.

  The next day, the 24th, they encountered sugar on top of very loose shale; the snow cover got thinner and thinner as they climbed to 5840m at the top of a ridge on the NE Face. They turned around. It was just 10:00 am. They went down to BC at 3:30 that afternoon. Snow was falling and the sky was very very cloudy.


expid: PUMO12301
peakid: PUMO
year: 2012
route1: SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Oh Ho-Guen
sponsor: Mt. Villa Pumori Expedition 2012
approach: Lukla->Namche->Tengboche->Pheriche->Lobuche
bcdate: 2012-10-21
smtdate: 2012-11-03
termdate: 2012-11-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m because could not find the route
campsites: BC(21/10,5300m),ABC(25/10,5750m),C1(30/10,6200m),xxx(03/11,6400m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Kim Myung-Woo and Kim Yong-Joo went up to C1. 

  Song left expedition on 28 Oct, then from Gorak Shep to Lukla by helicopter, Kathmandu on 29 October and left same day. Business problem back home.


expid: PUTH12302
peakid: PUTH
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Karl Gabl
sponsor: Tirolean Putha Hiunchuli
ascent1: 49th
countries: Germany
approach: Nepalgunj->Juphal->Dunai
bcdate: 2012-10-01
smtdate: 2012-10-11
termdate: 2012-10-15
campsites: BC(01/10,4983m),C1(05/10,5490m),C2(09/10,6050m),C3(10/10,6600m),Smt(11/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  The team enjoyed a very good acclimatization period of 8 days, with 2 times a day trip to C1. On 5th of October the team slept at C1, the day after went to C2 and back to the BC. On 8th of October the team could start its summit attempt.

  On 11th October: after a little snow the day before and a stormy night at C3 5 members went on summit (except Rainer Pieber) with Chuldim and Pemba Sherpa. Karma stayed with the doctor below. The team stayed no more than 5 minutes on the summit because of the cold and on their way back met Pieber and Karma who turned back with them to C3. [Pieber turn-around altitude estimated at 6800m].

  On 12th of October: all team was back from C3 to BC.

  On 13th of October: Doctor Rainer Pieber was evacuated by helicopter in Dhulikhel because of his frostbites.

  Accidents etc:

  With temperatures measured at -15/20 degrees C and 60 km/h wind during the summit day, all members got light frosbites, mostly on the toes, but not too serious. Only Rainer Pieber had blue toes and had to be later evacuated.

  Fixed rope and Sherpas:

  The whole route is not technically difficult and not exposed to avalanches. Only the part between BC and C1 is exposed to stones and blocks coming from the crest of the moraine above. Anyway the Sherpas put 80m to 100m of fixed rope between C1 and C2, around 5900m.

  Sherpas:
    Sirdar Chuldim Sherpa, 23/7/64, Khumjung-2
    Pemba [Jangbu] Sherpa, 16/2/86, Jubing-7, Kharikhola, Everest X3 [??]
    [Pasang] Karma Sherpa Lama, (2029/8/10) 25/11/72, Kharikhola, Everest X6


expid: SYKG12301
peakid: SYKG
year: 2012
route1: E Face
nation: New Zealand
leaders: John Nankervis
sponsor: New Zealand Yangma 2012 Expedition
ascent1: 1st
approach: Taplejung->Tima->Yangma->Yangma Khola
bcdate: 2012-10-20
smtdate: 2012-10-25
smttime: 1530
termdate: 2012-11-04
othersmts: Attempted Chaw Peak (CHAW-123-01)
campsites: BC(20/10,4400m),C1(22/10,4900m),C2(23/10,5300m),Smt(25/10)
accidents: John Nankervis suffered from AMS at 5560m
achievment: 1st ascent of Syaokang
agency: Dream Himalaya Adventures
routememo:
  Syaokang (5929m)

  24 Oct: the team did a reconnaissance of the Ice Fall of the East Face from C2, finding two possible routes.

  25 Oct: entire team started from C2 for summit at 7 am; at 5500m John Nankervis having AMS had to abandon and came back to C2; the other 5 members summited at 3:30 pm and went back to C2 at 7 pm.

  The mountain altitude measured by two members of the team are: 6070m and 6036m, for 5960m officially (Ministry) [and 5929m on HMG-Finn map]. The team believes they did the first ascent of the North Peak of Syaokang (which summit area would include 2 other peaks)

  26 Oct: entire team was back to the BC.


  Chaw (6404m)

  John Nankervis stayed at the same BC to recover from his AMS, so did not climb on Chaw at all.

  29 Oct: the team established C1 at 5100m.
  30 Oct: the team established C2 at 5500m.
  31 Oct: the team established C3 at 5700m.

  01 Nov: the team couldn't find a way through the icefall preceding Yangma La (5720m) and went back to the C3.

  02 Nov: the team started again at 8 am from C3. Nick Shearer went back this day to the base camp, stopping at the bergschrund of the Icefall. The 4 remaining members found a way through the 25m icefall, reached Yangma La (5720m) then came up to 6000m on the NW Ridge of Chaw (1 pm), where they decided to turn back. Knowing that they wouldn't have enough time for the return march, the team  knew at this moment that the expedition was finished. They all went back to C2 the same day at 6 pm.

  03 Nov: entire team was back at the BC and day after left for Taplejung.


expid: TENR12301
peakid: TENR
year: 2012
route1: N Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Alan Rousseau
sponsor: Mountain Madness Tengi Ragi Tau Expedition
othersmts: Summited Langmoche Ri (LMOC-123-01)
agency: Adventure Thamserku
primid: LMOC12301
routememo:
  The team approached their Rolwaling mountain by a jeep ride to Gongar village on the west side of the Bhote Kosi River. From there they trekked up the Bhote Kosi to Simigaon on a hill above the Rolwaling Khola, then east to the villages of Beding and Na. They stayed four days in Na, from where they trekked through the nearby high hills. Then southeast to the large Tsho Lake which is due west of Tengi Ragi Tau and north to a 6611m peak named Langmoche Ri.

  One member, Matthew Barela, had turned around and left the team on 7 November; the other two, Alan Rousseau and Tino Villaneuva, continued on to Tsho Lake and beyond.  They had no fixed camps so far, but on 16 November they made a camp on a high pass (5891m) north of Langmoche Ri.

  On the 17th Rousseau and Villaneuva climbed from the pass up onto the NW Ridge of Langmoche Ri [and to the summit] and back to the pass on the same day. The climb had not been easy: there were some technically difficult places with numerous cornices, some of which were overhanging; to get onto the ridge, they had to climb a section of the snow covered North Face which got steeper the higher they went, up to 80 degrees by the time they reached the ridge.

  The next day, the 18th, they left the pass and moved westward to return to Na.  They were tired after Langmoche Ri, and the wind was blowing at 60 mph. They never got to the North Ridge of Tengi Ragi Tau, their intended route.


expid: TUKU12301
peakid: TUKU
year: 2012
route1: S Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Yves Meremans
sponsor: Belgians on Tukuche
approach: Fly Pokhara, bus to Beni, Davan->Sallaghari->Swiss BC->Dhaulagiri BC
bcdate: 2012-10-09
smtdate: 2012-10-13
termdate: 2012-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 5600m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(09/10,5200m),xxx(13/10,5600m)
agency: Cultural Treks
routememo:
  Meremans, Nijs and Sonam went up to C1 on 13 Oct. They reached 5600m and could nt find suitable campsite. The normal C1 site was full of powder snow, windy and it was dangerous to pitch camp at that place. The climbers and Sherpa went down to Dhampus BC same day.  

  Sherpa:
    Sonam Tshering Sherpa, (11/5/2045) 27/8/89, Hatiya-1, Manaslu 2011
      (aka Sonam Chhiring Lama)


expid: AMAD12304
peakid: AMAD
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Arnold Coster
sponsor: SummitClimb Ama Dablam Expedition 2012
countries: Australia, Estonia, Israel, Luxembourg, Russia, UK, USA
bcdate: 2012-10-16
smtdate: 2012-10-28
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2012-11-11
campsites: BC(16/10,4600m),ABC(19/10,5350m),C1(22/10,5700m),C2(27/5950m),C2.7(08/11,6200m),Smt(28/10,09/11)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  The expedition went to the summit in two parties. The first group of five members left C2 at 11:00 pm on 27 Oct: They were Coster, Geller, Karu, Nichiporov and Reynolds, plus Gyalzen, Jangbu and Palden Nima Sherpas. Reynolds turned back at 6500m as he had been a slow climber from the start and now he had mild altitude sickness. Palden Nima turned back with him, and they decended to C2. The other members reached the summit between 10:30 (Coster, Geller, Karu) and 11:30 am on 20 October. They got back to C2 between 6:00 and 7:00 pm.

  Finally, Ms. Braat and Gyalzen (who came up from BC for this ascent) left the camp they called C2.7 at 5:00 am on 9 November and were on the top at 11:00 am. They went down to C1 at 5:00 pm.

  Non-summiting memebers:

  Bohn got to C2 on 27 October, but was not well and did not stay there, but retreated to BC.

  Daniels went down with Reynolds on 28 October.

  Gibson and Jackson who lived in Papua's hot climate, reached C1 when the weather was cold and windy. They went back to Indonesia.

  Maybank left the team on 19 October because he had received a job offer.

  Zeevi got to only ABC on 18 October and decided this climb was not for him.

  Sherpas:
    Gyalzen, 25/1/74, Patle-4, Okhaldhunga, Everest X3
    Jangbu, 22/2/81, Kharikhola, Solu, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X2
    Palden Nima, 29/8/78, Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2


expid: LHOT12301
peakid: LHOT
year: 2012
route1: W Face
nation: Poland
leaders: Artur Hajzer
sponsor: Polish Alpine Association Lhotse Expedition 2012
bcdate: 2012-09-09
smtdate: 2012-10-16
termdate: 2012-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 8250m due to high winds and Tenzing Sherpa's cold fingers
campsites: BC(09/09,5300m),C1(18/09,6000m),C2(25/09,6400m),C3(26/08,7100m),C4(30/09,7850m),xxx(16/10,8250m)
accidents: Temba Sherpa's fatal fall
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  The expedition shared the permit with Russian Alex Bolotov and Romanian Alex Gavan, but they were independent team. Our Polish team consisted of beginners on 8000m young people who should be able to fix ropes themselves and not use oxygen. He was national team organized by Polish Alpine Association. The monsoon stopped late on 19 Sept so all climbing progress was late. In October high winds did not allow a successful summit push. 

  On 16th of October, the 3-man team led by Artur Hajzer with Temba and Tenzing climbed from C4 to 8250m. There Tenzing was beginning to contract frostbite, so Hajzer decided to retreat. On the way down that Temba fell from 7900m to 6700m to his death. The reason of the fall was due to exhaustion: the team spent too much time in the cold last camp waiting for a good weather window with Temba having certainly lost too much of his energy during that time. 

  Sherpas,
    Temba Sherpa, (2029/8/9) 24/11/72, Sedua, Makalu-5
    Tenzing Sherpa, 1/1/92, Tashigaon, Makalu


expid: CHRW12301
peakid: CHRW
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Adriano Favre
sponsor: Aosta Valley Churen Himal Expedition
ascent1: 5th
approach: Darbang->Sibang->Lulang->Gurjagaon (intermediate camp)
bcdate: 2012-10-02
smtdate: 2012-10-15
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2012-10-22
othersmts: Attempted Churen Himal Central (CHUR-123-01)
campsites: BC(02/10,4050m),C1(06/10,5200m),C2(10/10,5800m),Smt(15/10)
agency: Campobase Treks
primid: CHUR12301
routememo:
  On 11 Oct Camandona, Cazzanelli and Emrik Favre reached 6600m (acclimatization).

  On 13 Oct Marguerettaz and Adriano Favre reached C2 with fixed rope.

  On 15 Oct Camandona, Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre left C2 at 3 am [to prepare the route] and arrived at lower summit (Churen West) at 3:00 pm (after 12 hours), spent 10 minutes up there and then began descent. They arrived back at C2 at 6:30 pm and slept at C2.

  On 16 Oct they left C2 at 6:00 am and arrived back at C1 at 7:30. Everyone came back from C1 together.

  On Oct 20 Camandona, Adriano Favre and Marguerettaz started up for the summit push [to Churen Central] from C2 at 3:00 am. Marguerettaz turned back soon (tired) and fell 50 into a crevasse on his way back to C2 and broke his leg. The others heard his screams and came back and rescued him. By 4:30 am, whole team back at C2. Everyone was back at base camp at 2:00 pm.


expid: CHAW12301
peakid: CHAW
year: 2012
route1: NW Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: John Nankervis
sponsor: New Zealand Yangma 2012 Expedition
approach: Taplejung->Tima->Yangma->Yangma Khola
bcdate: 2012-10-20
smtdate: 2012-11-02
termdate: 2012-11-04
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to lateness of the day
othersmts: Climbed Syaokang (SYKG-123-01)
campsites: BC(20/10,4400m),C1(29/10,5100m),C2(30/10,5500m),C3(31/10,5700m),xxx(02/11,6000m)
achievment: 1st attempt of Chaw Peak
agency: Dream Himalaya Adventures
primid: SYKG12301
routememo:
  Syaokang (5960m)

  24 Oct: the team did a reconnaissance of the Ice Fall of the East Face from C2, finding two possible routes.

  25 Oct: entire team started from C2 for summit at 7 am; at 5500m John Nankervis having AMS had to abandon and came back to C2; the other 5 members summited at 3:30 pm and went back to C2 at 7 pm.

  The mountain altitude measured by two members of the team are: 6070m and 6036m, for 5960m officially (Ministry) [and 5929m on HMG-Finn map]. The team believes they did the first ascent of the North Peak of Syaokang (which summit area would include 2 other peaks)

  26 Oct: entire team was back to the BC.


  Chaw (6404m)

  John Nankervis stayed at the same BC to recover from his AMS, so did not climb on Chaw at all.

  29 Oct: the team established C1 at 5100m.
  30 Oct: the team established C2 at 5500m.
  31 Oct: the team established C3 at 5700m.

  01 Nov: the team couldn't find a way through the icefall preceding Yangma La (5720m) and went back to the C3.

  02 Nov: the team started again at 8 am from C3. Nick Shearer went back this day to the base camp, stopping at the bergschrund of the Icefall. The 4 remaining members found a way through the 25m icefall, reached Yangma La (5720m) then came up to 6000m on the NW Ridge of Chaw (1 pm), where they decided to turn back. Knowing that they wouldn't have enough time for the return march, the team knew at this moment that the expedition was finished. They all went back to C2 the same day at 6 pm.

  03 Nov: entire team was back at the BC and day after left for Taplejung.


expid: AMAD12301
peakid: AMAD
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Adrian Ballinger
sponsor: Alpenglow Ama Dablam Expedition 2012
countries: Canada, Latvia, Netherlands, Russia, USA
bcdate: 2012-10-20
smtdate: 2012-10-26
smttime: 0738
termdate: 2012-11-04
campsites: BC(20/10,4600m),ABC(21/10,5600m),C1(26/11,5800m),C2.7(31/10,6280m),Smt(26/10,01-02/11)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  This successful expedition put 11 of its 13 members and all of its 7 Sherpas on the summit on three different days; only two members didn't make a summit attempt, but they stayed with the team to the end; and no one, member or Sherpa, had a serious health problem.

  The first to go to the top were Ballinger, Baranov, Geluk, Peele and Spruzs, with Sherpas Dawa Nuru, Dorje Sonam Gyalzen and Palden Namgye. Ballinger left for the top at 5:00 am on 26 October from C1 while all others left from C2.7 at the same time; everyone was on the summit by 8:47 am, and they descended all the way to BC between 3:30 and 6:45 pm that day.

  In the second summit party were Ballinger (again from BC), Gibans, Gildor, Dawa Nuru (again from C2), Pasang Rinji, Tenjing Gyalzen and Palden Namgye (again from C2), who summited on 1 November. And finally on the 2nd, Bergsma, Carder, Peele (again from BC), Sherwood and Warren with Ngima Chhiri and Karma Gyalzen. 

  Non-summiting members: Ries and Tracey reached 6100m together on 27 October, but they went no higher because the climb was too difficult technically for them.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Nuru (Danuru), 26/10/78, Phortse, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X8, Manaslu X1
    Dorje Sonam Gyalzen, 24/5/81, Phortse, Everest X15, Cho Oyu X1,
      Manaslu X3, Lhotse X1
    Karma Gyalzen, 22/4/87, Phortse, Everest X2
    Ngima Chhiri/Nima Tshering, 22/4/72, Phortse, Everest X4, Lhotse X2, Manaslu X3
    Pasang Rinji, 18/1/77, Phortse, Everest X5
    Palden Namgye/Namchen, 20/9/72, Phortse, Everest X7, Lhotse X4, 
      Manaslu X1, Annapurna I X1
    Tenjing Gyalzen, 2/7/91, Phortse, Everest X1


expid: AMAD12309
peakid: AMAD
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Chris Szymiec, Samira Samimi
sponsor: Field Touring Alpine Ama Dablam Expedition 2012
countries: Australia, Germany, Iran, Japan
bcdate: 2012-11-10
smtdate: 2012-11-15
termdate: 2012-11-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to various illnesses, pains and other problems
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak on 15 Nov by Samimi, Szymiec, Thielen
campsites: BC(10/11,4600m),ABC(15/11,5300m),C1(21/11,5650m),xxx(21/11,5650m)
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
routememo:
  The team arrived at BC on 10 November, but before attempting Ama Dablam, they first went to Island Peak via Chhukung. They arrived at Island Peak on the 14th and it was summited on the 15th by Samimi, Szymiec, Thielen. They returned to Ama Dablam BC on the 19th, without Hata, who had left the day before by helicopter from Pangboche (Hata wasn't eating -- consuming too much whiskey?).

  All the four remaining members moved up to C1 on the 21st. While they had been away climbing Island Peak, Pemba Rinzi had gone up to 6000m, pitched C2 at 6000m and stocked it. But none of the members ever reached it. On the 22nd they were getting ready to go up and occupy C2, but Booker was developing altitude sickness, Szymiec's gloves and mattress was stolen, Thielen was climbing too slowly due to lack of sufficient strength, and Pemba Rinzi had twisted his ankle while taking the departing Hata's bag to Pangboche. So instead of moving up, they descended to BC. The climb was finished.

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Rinzi, 1/1/65, Makalu-5, Sankhuwasabha, Everest X4


expid: AMAD12401
peakid: AMAD
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Koki Takahashi
sponsor: Japanese on Ama Dablam
bcdate: 2013-01-01
smtdate: 2013-01-04
termdate: 2013-01-08
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to strong wind
campsites: BC(01/01,4500m),C1(02/01,5300m),xxx(04/01,5800m)
agency: Himalayan Ascent
routememo:
  Koki did all his climbing with one Sherpa, Lhakpa. They tried to get to C2 for a summit bid, but strong winds defeated them each time. They moved from BC to C1 on 2 January and the next day went to the site for C2, but the wind sent them down to BC. On the 7th they got only as far C1 before they had to retreat again to BC. They decided it was hopeless to attempt the climb any longer. They abandoned the effort and on the 8th left BC. They were back in Kathmandu on the 11th.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Sherpa, 25/7/68 (28/1/2065), Tamku-9, Solukhumbu, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2


expid: AMAD12402
peakid: AMAD
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Park Moo-Yeon
sponsor: Inchon Teacher College Alpine Club Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 2013-01-05
smtdate: 2013-01-15
termdate: 2013-01-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to wind and snowfall
campsites: BC(05/01,4500m),C1(10/01,5300m),C1(10/01,5300m),C2(14/01,5800m),xxx(15/01,6500m)
agency: Sora Treks
routememo:
  The team of three members and one Sherpa, Tenji, made C2 at 5800m on 14 January and intended to pitch a C2.7 at 6300m the following day. But when they reached 6300m they discovered that there was no place where they could set up a camp. Apparently the ledge previously used for the camp had broken off. They returned to C2 immediately.

  Then they decided to try to establish C3 and for the summit, but when they got to the site, the wind was so strong that they went back to BC instead and decided to abandon the climb. They left BC for Pangboche on the 18th.

  Sherpa:
    Tenji Sherpa, 1/6/82 (18/2/2039), Patle-6, Okhaldhunga


expid: BARU12305
peakid: BARU
year: 2012
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hisashi Hashimoto
sponsor: Baruntse Expedition 2012
bcdate: 2012-10-05
smtdate: 2012-10-20
termdate: 2012-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to large crevasse across SE Ridge
campsites: BC(05/10,5440m),C1(12/10,6000m),C2(6400m),xxx(20/10,6900m)
agency: Bochi Bochi Treks
routememo:
  Goto and Fujimoto reached 6400m (C2); did not go higher because too tired. 

  Tsukamoto went only up to C1, too tired to go higher.

  Sherpas:
    Chhebi Bhote, (14/6/2031) 30/9/74, Hatiya-3, Sankhuwasabha
    Phurpu Bhote, 7/5/76, Hatiya-1, Sankhuwasabha
    Bir Bahadur Gurung (aka Bishnu Gurung) 6/2024, 20/9/67, Dharampani-8, Tanahun


expid: JANK12301
peakid: JANK
year: 2012
route1: W Face
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Miha Habjan
sponsor: Slovenian Himalayan Janak Expedition
ascent1: 2nd
bcdate: 2012-10-02
smtdate: 2012-10-22
smttime: 1350
termdate: 2012-10-27
othersmts: Attempted Lashar II (LAS2-123-01)
campsites: BC(02/10,4700m),Biv(21/10,6700m),Smt(22/10)
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  2nd October: Lhonak basecamp 4700m. Acclimatization days around Lhonak's hills until 5600/5800m (half-day ascents)

  8th October: ABC on Chijima (Tsisima) Glacier at 5500m (near point on Finish Map). From there all attempts would be made in one-day trips, except for the Janak Chuli West Face ascent (one bivouac).

  13th of October: Matevz, Kremser and Miha in ABC to have a look on the West Face of Janak Chuli.

  14th of October: Matevz, Kremser and Miha went west on a col at 6000m between 6166m peak (not so difficualt to reach) and 6170m peak (very difficult to reach) to observe the other faces better. In his plan, Miha thought to climb again the gully climbed with Stremfelj on Lashar I 7 years ago, but the glaciers had just so melted that the conditions were too dangerous.

  15th of October: Marcic and Strazar started at 5 am for a new route on Lashar II's steep South Face (little left on the South Face of Lashar II). This face sizes 1000m high, with some pitches at 90-degree ice (little steeper than a North Face of Les Droites). The team stopped at 6500m at 3 pm and went back to the ABC at 8 pm.

  Meanwhile Matevz, Kremser and Miha had a rest day at ABC and could observe their friends.

  16th of October: Matevz and Kremser went straight north from the ABC on the Glacier lying west and southwest of Lashar I to bivouac on it around 6200m (these glacier gentle slopes join easily the West Ridge of Lashar I - normal route).

  17th of October: Matevz and Kremser tried to climb the 200m high gully up to 6400m by which Stremfelj and Habjan rappeled down from the West Ridge in 2005 (40 to 50-degree slopes); here they had to go back because of strong winds and then went down by the West Ridge. They started at 5:30 am, stopped at 8 am and went back the same day at Lhonak base camp.

  The glaciers under all the south faces have gone down. In a few years they will have disappeared!

  18th October: everybody back at the BC.
  19th October: Marcic and Strazar went to the ABC, others stayed at BC.
  20th October: Marcic and Strazar had a rest day at ABC.

  21st October: Marcic and Strazar started at 1:30 am to walk in direction of the West Face of Janak Chuli Main. After 2:30 of approach, the pair began to climb around 4 am on the right side of the face up to 6 pm when they joined the SW Ridge at 6700m (here they joined the Stremfelj route of 2006). To bivouac, they dug a kind of snow hole with the foot halfway of the hole.

  22nd October: after a cold windy night (-17 degrees C at 6700m in continous wind), the pair started at 8:30 only because they had difficulties to warm up their feet and fingers. After a large crossing from right to left on the upper part of the face, the duo eventually reached summit at 1:50 pm. The route's difficulty is nothing too hard.

  Ice: average of 60-degree slopes for the whole face, with steepest sections up to 80/85 degrees.

  Mixt: M4 on some sections. The face is 1400m high.

  Meanwhile Matevz, Kremser and Miha were at BC during that time until the 23rd of October.

  23rd October: Matevz and Kremser went to ABC on Broken Glacier with the help of the cook to carry their gear (the cook was back at BC the same day), planning to attempt the SW Ridge of Janak Chuli East.

  24th of October: Miha having stomachs problems, one member having bad news from home, Matevz and Kremser went back to the BC the same day without attempting the route. The climbing activity was over.

  27th October: The team left Lhonak to Ghunsa and went on south side of Kangchenjunga to watch future other projects.

  4th November: team went back in Taplejung, the day after in Biratnagar (according to Miha Habjan, the route seems better now than in 2005) and on 6th November, the entire team was back in Kathmandu.

  1 = Matevz
  2 = Kremser 
  3 = Marcic     
  4 = Miha
  5 = Strazar


expid: LHOT12302
peakid: LHOT
year: 2012
route1: W Face
nation: Russia
leaders: Alexei Bolotov
sponsor: Lhotse 2012
countries: Romania
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2012-09-10
smtdate: 2012-09-26
termdate: 2012-10-19
termnote: Abandoned due to bad weather and lack of acclimatization on the first attempt
campsites: BC(10/09,5300m),C1(14/09,6100m),C2(18/09,6300m),C3(19/09,7000m),C4(25/09,7800m),xxx(26/09,8450m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  On summit attempt day, the team left C4 at 1 am, reached high point at 8 am and was back C4 at 11 am where they slept. The team did climb in a very good weather conditions (not cold, no wind) without anybody else around. In fact, they didn't intend to attempt for the summit that time, having not enough acclimatized, but the weather was so good that they decided to try it anyway and both went close from summit. Both hoped after that for next time, but the weather turned bad for too long a time and they decided to abandon (Alex Gavan left BC before Alexei Bolotov).


expid: MANA12326
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Australia
leaders: Paul Hudson
sponsor: Paul & Rafal Manaslu 2012
countries: S Africa
bcdate: 2012-09-14
smtdate: 2012-10-01
termdate: 2012-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to Hudson's exhaustion
campsites: BC(14/09,4800m),C1(21/09,5300m),C2(27/09,6300m),C3(30/09,6900m),C4(01/10,7400m),xxx(01/10,7400m)
agency: Adventure Magic
routememo:
  Szejwallo left the mountain on 25 September because of the fatal avalanches on 23 September.

  Hudson did not get above C4 because he was much too tired to continue to climb up it. On 2 October he descended from C4 to C2 and was back in BC on the 4th. His climb was over.

  Two members had not climbed together, they met on the internet: each was looking for a climbing partner.


expid: MANA12323
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Israel
leaders: Danny (Denis) Gordin
sponsor: Israeli to Manaslu
bcdate: 2012-09-11
smtdate: 2012-10-01
smttime: 1115
termdate: 2012-10-03
campsites: BC(11/09,4800m),C1(15/09,5750m),C2(20/09,6200m),C3(29/09,6900m),C4(30/10,7450m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Adventure Magic
routememo:
  Very strong climber, said Joie Seagram (a Canadian on Manaslu with same agency).


  Danny Gordin (email) - 9 Jan 2014

  Regarding my 2012 Manaslu climb:

  - I arrived to BC (4800m) on 11 Sept and left on 2 Oct.
  - I set C1 (5750m) on 15 Sept, C2 (6200m) on 20 Sept, C3 (6900m) on 29 Sept 
    and C4 (7450m) on 30 Sept.
  - I reached fore-summit at 10:40 am on 1 Oct. (where I met last 6 people - 2
    guided groups of 4 + 2 - descending from the summit) and true top of Manaslu
    (end of fixed line - ~2-3m distance from the summit mushroom) at 11:15 am. 
  - I climbed without oxygen and with no climbing Sherpas. My climbing partners 
    (Paul Hudson (Australian) and Manuel Morgado (Brazil)) stayed that morning 
    in C4 for another day and eventually were not able to summit :-(
  - I was surprised to see from your update that I was the last person to summit
    Manaslu that season (because the weather seemed to stay stable for several more 
    days and there were several groups in BC and on the mountain planning to summit
    later)
  - Some notable details:
    1) It is my first 8000m summit (and also first 8000m attempt)
    2) I became the first person from Israel to reach 8000m+ summit without oxygen
    3) I became the first person from Israel to summit Manaslu
    4) My crampons started to malfunction during descent from the summit to C4, 
    I had to remove my mitten several times to fix it and got light frostbite on 
    my fingertips.


expid: MANA12319
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: China
leaders: Tsering Samdrup
sponsor: Chinese to Manaslu
countries: France
approach: Flew into Samagaon
bcdate: 2012-09-09
smtdate: 2012-09-22
termdate: 2012-09-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to avalanche
campsites: BC(09/09,4800m),C1(14/09,5500m),C2(22/09,6100m),xxx(22/09,6100m)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  Sherpas:
    Tashi Sherpa (sirdar), 18/4/75, Namche-3
    Nima Tenzing Sherpa, 24 August 1980, Beding, Dolakha
    Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa, 31 August 1983, Gorakhani-1, Solu, Everest X5, Manaslu X2,
      Cho Oyu X1
    Nurbu/Norbu Sherpa, 2 May 1968, Beding
    Shyam Bahadur Tamang, 24 Oct 1979, Dolakha
    Ngima/Nima Gyalzen Sherpa, 22 April 1980, Kharikhola, Everest X3
    Mingma Chhiri Sherpa, 21 Nov 1991, Dolakha, Gaurishankar-1
    Mingma Tshering Sherpa, 26 Sept 1982, Dolakha, Gaurishankar
    Tashi Sherpa, 4 Dec 1977, Bung-9, Solu
    Lila Bahadur Basnet, 31 March 1983, Dolakha, Lambagar-3, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1
    Kili Pemba Sherpa, 15 May 1980, Beding, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2, Manaslu X2,
      Dhaulagiri X2
    Tamding Sherpa, 20 Dec 1974, Dolakha, Gaurishankar-1
    Dawa Tashi Sherpa, 18 April 1987, Dolakha, Gaurishankar, Everest X2


expid: MANA12318
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Australia
leaders: Christine Burke
sponsor: Four for Manaslu
countries: Norway, Sweden
bcdate: 2012-09-09
smtdate: 2012-09-17
termdate: 2012-09-24
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to windy, cloudy weather and avalanche fear
campsites: BC(09/09,4900m),C1(12/09,5600m),C2(16/09,6000m),C2.5(17/09,7000m),xxx(17/09,7000m)
agency: Himalayan Ascent
routememo:
  Sherpas:
    Ang Kazi Sherpa, 11/5/78 (28/1/2035), Sisuwakhola, Sankhuwasabha, Everest X5,
      Manaslu X1
    Lakpa/Lhakpa, 25/7/68, Tamku-9, Sankhuwasabha, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2


expid: PUMO12401
peakid: PUMO
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Liudmila Mikhanovskaia
sponsor: Russian-Nepali Pumori Southwest Ridge Expedition
bcdate: 2012-12-09
smtdate: 2012-12-14
termdate: 2012-12-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to strong cold wind
campsites: BC(09/12,5200m),C1(13/12,5900m),xxx(14,18/12,6400m)
agency: Expedition Himalaya
routememo:
  BC was placed on 9 December at 5200m at the bottom of SW Ridge just northeast of Kalapattar. C1 was pitched four days later part-way up the ridge on the glacier.

  The site for C2 was to be at 6500m but it was never reached. On the 14th Mikhanovsaia stopped at 6000m because she was getting too cold. The three Sherpas went up to 6400m and then they also turned back: the very cold wind blowing at 60-70 mph made it dangerous for them to take their gloves off to fix the ropes. All of them retreated to BC that day.

  The next day, the 15th, it became cloudy and therefore even colder. The team waited at BC for the wind to abate. But by now Mikhanovskaia had no energy (motivation?) left. But on the 18th the three Sherpas left BC at 7:00 am with the intention of fixing rope the last 100 meters to C2. But again the wind was too strong for them to geth higher than 6400m, and they brought C1 with them as they returned to BC at 7:00 pm. All had agreed that if the very strong wind was still blowing, they would abandon their climb.

  They had fixed a small amount of rope, 20 meters, between BC and C1 and 280m above C1.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Finjo Bhote, 5/9/88 (20/6/2045), Hatiya-1, Sankhuwasabha, Everest X4
    Dorje Sherpa, 1/1/65, Taksindu-5, Solu
    Pasang Wangchu Sherpa, 25/4/87, Bung-9, Solu, Everest X3, Manaslu X1


expid: PUTH12303
peakid: PUTH
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Thomas Merkel
sponsor: Amical Alpin Putha Hiunchuli Expedition 2012
ascent1: 50th
countries: Austria, Switzerland
bcdate: 2012-10-08
smtdate: 2012-10-18
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2012-10-20
campsites: BC(08/10,4920m),C1(12/10,5480m),C2(16/10,6115m),C3(17/10,6510m),Smt(18/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Eight members and two Sherpas went to the summit on 18 October. They were Astelbauer, Hawel, Leist, Merkel, Reiners, Schwab, Tuechler and Wehnelt with Sherpas Pemba Jangbu and Sonam Jangbu. They left C3 at 3:00 am. First on the top was Merkel at 8:00 am and the last was Hawel at 11:30 am. In their descent, Merkel went all the way down to BC at 3:00 pm. The last were Hawel and Tuechler, who got to BC at 9:00 pm.

  Two members are not in good enough condition to get all the way to the top: Staedale and Vedani reached 6600m and 6900m respectively on summit day and retreated to C1 for the night.

  Sherpas summiters:
    Pemba Jangbu, 16/2/86, Bupsa, Jubing, Solu, Everest X1, Makalu X1 
    Sonam Jangbu, 23 yrs old, Bupsa (brother of Pemba Jangbu)


expid: LAS212301
peakid: LAS2
year: 2012
route1: S Face
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Habjan Miha
sponsor: Slovenian Himalayan Janak Expedition
bcdate: 2012-10-02
smtdate: 2012-10-15
termdate: 2012-10-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to steepness of the route
othersmts: Climbed Janak (JANK-123-01)
campsites: BC(02/10,4700m),xxx(15/10,6500m)
agency: Wilderness Experience
primid: JANK12301
routememo:
  2nd October: Lhonak basecamp 4700m. Acclimatization days around Lhonak's hills until 5600/5800m (half-day ascents)

  8th October: ABC on Chijima (Tsisima) Glacier at 5500m (near point on Finish Map). From there all attempts would be made in one-day trips, except for the Janak Chuli West Face ascent (one bivouac).

  13th of October: Matevz, Kremser and Miha in ABC to have a look on the West Face of Janak Chuli.

  14th of October: Matevz, Kremser and Miha went west on a col at 6000m between 6166m peak (not so difficualt to reach) and 6170m peak (very difficult to reach) to observe the other faces better. In his plan, Miha thought to climb again the gully climbed with Stremfelj on Lashar I 7 years ago, but the glaciers had just so melted that the conditions were too dangerous.

  15th of October: Marcic and Strazar started at 5 am for a new route on Lashar II's steep South Face (little left on the South Face of Lashar II). This face sizes 1000m high, with some pitches at 90-degree ice (little steeper than a North Face of Les Droites). The team stopped at 6500m at 3 pm and went back to the ABC at 8 pm.


expid: AMAD12320
peakid: AMAD
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Jonathan Gupta
sponsor: Jon Gupta Ama Dablam Expedition 2012
countries: USA
bcdate: 2012-11-03
smtdate: 2012-11-13
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2012-11-20
campsites: BC(03/11,4400m),C1(11/11,5850m),C2.9(12/11,6250m),Smt(13,17,19/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Jon Gupta (email) - 21-22 Nov 2012

  11th Nov = Bascamp -> Camp 1
  12th Nov = Camp 1 -> Camp 2.9
  13th Nov = Camp 2.9 -> Summit -> Camp 2.9 
             (with clients: Oscar, Pat & Geylgen Sherpa)
  14th Nov = Camp 2.9 -> Basecamp
  15th Nov = Rest day at Basecamp
  16th Nov = Basecamp -> Camp 1
  17th Nov = Camp 1 -> Summit -> Basecamp (with Tim Mosedale)
  18th Nov = Rest day at Basecamp
  19th Nov = Basecamp -> Summit -> Basecamp (solo in 14 hrs 10 min)


expid: AMAD12321
peakid: AMAD
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Tim Mosedale
sponsor: Tim Mosedale's Ama Dablam Autumn 2012
countries: Australia, Netherlands, New Zealand
approach: Lukla
bcdate: 2012-11-03
smtdate: 2012-11-16
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2012-11-20
campsites: BC(03/11,4400m),C1(08/11,5850m),C2(11/11,5950m),C3(12/11,6250m),Smt(16-18/11)
accidents: None
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  03 Nov  4400m
  C1  08 Nov  5850m
  C2  11 Nov  5950m
  C3  12 Nov  6250m
  Smt 16 Nov  at noon Wyatt, Grant, Chhyang Jyalbu, Chewang Dorje 
  Smt 17 Nov  at 11:50 am Lea, Mosedale, Chhyang Jyalbu (again) 	
  Smt 18 Nov  at 12:15 pm Blackham, Bosch, Dorje Gyalzen, Chheten.

  All summit teams left C3 at around 9 am, apart from Mosedale, who summited from C1, where he left at 4:10 am. The weather was stable on all three days, but cold.

  On way down, Wyatt and Grant slept at C3 arriving 16:00; Lea and Mosedale slept at BC arriving at 19:30; Blackham and Bosch slept at C2 arriving at 17:00.

  High Points of other members:

  Michael Howie - 6500m, exhaustion and throat infection
  Stuart Leonard - 5850m, compassionate reasons (asked to come home)
  Anthony Peeters - 5850m, compassionate reasons (asked to come home)
  Linda Wales - 5850m, personal reasons/tiredness and difficulty acclimatizing
  Michelle Bond - 5850m, personal reasons/tiredness and difficulty acclimatizing
  Paul Rochford - 5400m, compassionate reasons (asked to come home)
  Piers Goodwin - 6400m, exhaustion
  Steve Livingston - 5850m, personal reasons/tiredness and difficulty acclimatizing
  Jason Rawles - 5600m, illness


expid: DHA112111
peakid: DHA1
year: 2012
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Miguel Angel Perez
bcdate: 2012-05-03
smtdate: 2012-05-25
smttime: 1640
termdate: 2012-05-27
campsites: BC(03/05,4600m),C1(07/05,5800m),C2(08/05,6600m),C3(17/05,7250m),C4(24/05,7700m),Smt(25/05)
agency: Multi Adventure
routememo:
  BC  03 May  4600m
  C1  07 May  5800m
  C2  08 May  6600m
  C3  17 May  7250m
  C4  24 May  7700m
  Smt 25 May  at 4:40 pm with Oscar Cadiach.	

  From Cadiach route notes:

  Cadiach and Miguel Angel Perez (from Chomolungma Pilgrimage) did not stay at C2, but went from C1 to C3 directly, which was very exhausting. On summit day, they left C4 at 6 am. Conditions were good; weather was windy and clear. Up to the traverse the snow was knee-deep.

  Last section technically difficult and very exposed. They took 10 hours to get to summit, where they spent about 10 minutes. They descended to C5, where they arrived at 5 pm. They found Cleo and her Sherpa, who were on their way to the summit, in their tent. Cadiach and Perez could not sleep or eat and were very exhausted.

  On 26 May Perez and Cadiach were attempting to reach BC, but could not make it one day due to fatigue. At 10 pm they set up a bivouac at 5500m, where they spent the night. They slept until 4 am descended to BC, where they were picked up by helicopter at 7 am.

  Oxygen: not taken, not used.


  From Perez email to Billi - 5 March 2013

  Perez and Cadiach left C4 at 6 am. Conditions were good; weather was windy but clear. Up to the traverse the snow was knee-deep. They spent 10 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 5 pm. On 26 May they were attempting to reach BC but were too tired. They set up a bivouac at 5500m at 10 pm. The following day they descended to BC.

  Perez left BC on 27 May by helicopter.


expid: AMAD12110
peakid: AMAD
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Niels Tietze
sponsor: Himalayan Ascent Ama Dablam Expedition 2012
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 2012-04-14
smtdate: 2012-04-27
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2012-04-29
campsites: BC(14/04,4500m),C1(18/04,5950m),C2(24/04,6100m),Smt(27/04)
agency: Himalayan Ascent
routememo:
  Arrival in Lukla April 13th.

  Arrival in base camp April 14 2012(~14,800'). Departure 29th April.
  Camp 1 April 18th-19th (~19,500')
  BC     April 20th
  Camp 1 April 23rd
  Camp 2 April 24-27th (~20,000')

  Summit Bid 1 April 25th - We (myself, Scott, Lakpa) reached below hanging glacier ~21,300' (Chris was at base of snowfield (~21,000'). Returned 1 pm because of slow pace as we (mostly Lakpa) fixed ropes, I was carrying 1000' rope and was largely the mule. Around 6 other members from other parties also turned around as they were either unwilling or incapable of fixing ropes.

  Camp 2 April26th Rest Day 

  Summit Day April 27 - All other parties (except 1) had descended to BC and we (myself, Chris and Scott) teamed up with a strong Swiss-American team [Ueli Steck and Freddie Wilkinson] fixing ropes to summit. Lakpa returned to BC due to fatigue. (Chris Possa returned after maybe 2 hours (6 am) after departure due to fatigue and light headedness reaching a high point lower than standard Camp 3 (~20,700').

  We summited around 1:30 April 27th behind Swiss/Americans. Waited for Scott 20 min and departed summit maybe 2:15 pm. Scott seemed lethargic and I found myself looking after him and waiting on the descent quite frequently.

  I arrived in Camp 2 around 6:00 pm as it was getting dark. Brewed some water and watched Scott's progress down the last gully. He required some amount of assistance coming back from the last stretches, but still seemed mentally present, just surprisingly lethargic. Both Chris and Lakpa had descended to base camp and we were alone at Camp 2.

  April 28th - Retrieved gear and descended to BC
  April 29th - Departed base camp and arrived in Lukla that evening.
  April 30th - Arrival in Kathmandu.
   
  No Sherpas were used by myself, Chris and Scott other than Lakpa, who did the vast majority of rope fixing on the mountain. Although he was not present for the final summit bid, it would not have been possible without all of his physical and logistical efforts. The relationship was a mix of partner/guide/friend/teammate, so I don't think it would qualify as "Sherpas used."


expid: BARU10314
peakid: BARU
year: 2010
route1: SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Pierre Schmidt
sponsor: Odyssee Montagne Baruntse Expedition
countries: Hungary
bcdate: 2010-10-21
smtdate: 2010-10-27
termdate: 2010-10-29
campsites: BC(21/10),ABC(23/10),C1(26/10,6100m),xxx(27/10,6700m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Francois Guillaume (email to Paulo Grobel) - March 24, 2013

  The 24th, we learned that Chewang Nima was missing after his attempt to install ropes on the final ridge. It was pretty obvious for the whole team at this time already that we will not reach the summit. I found this web page, probably the best to read to know about the conditions:

  http://www.markhorrell.com/blog/2010/baruntse-post-mortem-bad-luck-or-bad-decision-making/

  Nevertheless we made it up to C1 (West Col) the 26th and from this up to the beginning of the final ridge at about 6700-6800m.

  Back to BC the 27th, leaving the 29th.

  Except for the snow on the final ridge, the conditions were good.


expid: HIML12101
peakid: HIML
year: 2012
route1: W Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Andrew Thompson
bcdate: 2012-05-23
termdate: 2012-06-04
campsites: BC(23/05,4800m),C1(5500m),xxx
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  There were not any climbing Sherpas, only the basecamp kitchen crew.

  Arrived at basecamp on 23rd May and departed from basecamp on 4th June. They climbed up to C1. Because of the bad weather they stopped climb.


expid: MANA12350
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Sanjay Pandit
approach: Arughat->Machhakhola->Namrung->Samagaon
bcdate: 2012-09-10
smtdate: 2012-09-29
smttime: 1015
termdate: 2012-09-30
campsites: BC(10/09,4800m),C1(13/09,5800m),C2(17/09,6400m),C3(27/09,6900m),C4(28/09,7600m),Smt(29/09)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Pandit and Mingma Gyabu left top camp at 10:30 pm on 28 September. They reached to the top at 10:15 am on 29 September and stayed on summit less than 10 minutes. There was a Chinese woman on summit at the same time. Pandit and Mingma Gyabu went down to BC same day where they arrived at 9:30 pm.


expid: EVER12154
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Ajay Kothiyal
sponsor: Indian Army Women Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2012-04-16
smtdate: 2012-05-18
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2012-05-29
campsites: BC(16/04,5350m),C1(21/04,6100m),C2(27/04,6700m),C3(30/04,7200m),C4(19/05,7900m),Smt(18,25-26/05)
agency: Rimo Expeditions
routememo:
  The expedition sent its members and Sherpas to the top in two parties, the first, eight members and seven Sherpas, on 25 May, and the second, five members and eight more Sherpas, on the following day.

  The first group left C4 between 7:00 and 7:30 pm on the 24th. They summited between 4:00 am (Jalal, Linyu, Smitha, Pema Tsiring and Karma Gyalje and 9:30 am (Jamwal, Deepika Rathore, Sudhir Singh, Phujung Bhote, Na Dorje and Pasang Tenje) on 25 May; in between then were Jalal, Paldan, Namrata Rathore, Praveen Thapa, Chembi and Samgel. All of them descended to C2 between 2:00 and 7:30 pm that day and were in BC on the 26th.

  Meanwhile the second summit party set out for the top from C4 at 8:00-8:30 pm on the 25th. Bhatnagar, Bisht, Gole, Negi, Sangwan, Lakche, Jamchang Bhote, Lhakpa Thendu, Dawa Nurbu, Mingma Tendu, Pasang Sherpa, Pekma Lama Bhote and Pima Tenjing Lama summited at 5:45-6:00 am of 26 May and returned to C2 at 3:45 pm. They were safely back in BC on the 27th. [Pekma Lama Bhote and Pima Tenjing Lama were with Toolika Rani].

  Oxygen was used by all summiting members except Rajendra Singh Jalal, who did not use at all. The others used it from C3 to the top to C4 and slept on it the night of their return. Their summit Sherpas used it from C4 to the top and in C4.

  Their sirdar, Dawa Ongchu, directed the Sherpas towards the end from C4, but he himself did not go to the summit (he had already been there four times), but went alone from C4 to Lhotse's summit on the 26th and back to C4 the same day.

  Sherpa summiters (spellings by Sirdar Ongju):
    Chembi Sherpa, 9/1/77, Makalu-9 [21/4/66 (9/1/2023)]
    Dawa Nurbu, 24/11/78, Dobane-9, Bhojpur
    Jamchang Bhote, 13/4/81, Hatiya
    Karma Gyalje, 12/9/83, Makalu-9
    Lakpa Thendu, 18/4/87, Makalu-9, Manaslu X1
    Mingma Tendu, 18/6/75, Makalu-9
    Nadorjee Sherpa, 19/12/75, Makalu-9
    Pasang Sherpa, 28/7/87, Makalu-5
    Pasang Tenje, 25/11/81, Makalu-9, Manaslu X1
    Pekma Lama Bhote, 14/12/70, Hatiya-3 [climbed with Toolika Rani]
    Pema Tshiring, 17/5/71, Makalu-9
    Phujung Bhote, 31/5/79, Hatiya-1
    Pima Tenjing Lama, 10/12/86, Hatiya-3 [climbed with Toolika Rani]
    Samgel Sherpa, 28/3/72, Makalu-9
    Lakche Sherpa [only listed on Rimo web site]

  Lhotse summiter:
    Dawa Ongju (widely known as Dawa Wangchuk), 17/12/72, Mathilow, Walung, Makalu-9
      Dhaulagiri X1, Everest X4, Kangchenjunga X3, Makalu X3


  Note from IMG web site:

  8 Sherpas summited on 18 May as part of a joint expedition rope-fixing team:
    Ang Kazi (Chitre) - USA (North Face, Conrad Anker)
    Jyamchang Bhote (Hungung) - India (Ajay Kothiyal)
    Kami Rita (Thami) - USA (AAI, Garrett Madison)
    Phura Kancha (Thami) - Chile (Eugenio Guzman)
    Karma Gyalzen (Phortse) - USA (IMG, Mike Hamill)
    Phu Tashi (Phortse) - Canada (Peak Freaks, Tim Rippel)
    Palden Namgyal (Phortse) - Canada (Peak Freaks, Tim Rippel)
    Nima Dorje - (Seven Summit Treks)


expid: BARU12106
peakid: BARU
year: 2012
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Gerard McConochie
approach: Bus to Jiri->Namche->Lobuche->Island Peak->Mera->BC
bcdate: 2012-04-15
smtdate: 2012-04-21
termdate: 2012-04-23
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to bad weather (deep snow and windy)
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East, Island Peak and Mera Peak
campsites: BC(15/04,5500m),C1(21/04,6100m),xxx
agency: Kaji Sherpa (Pike Expeditions pmt)
routememo:
  McConochie and Renjen went up to C1 on 21 April. Weather was very bad, lots of snow and windy, so they abandoned their climb.

  Sherpa:
    Renjen Bhote, Chepuwa-2, 26/6/67 (12/3/2024)


expid: CHOY12111
peakid: CHOY
year: 2012
route1: NW side
nation: Chile
leaders: Rodrigo Echeverria
sponsor: Chilean Expedition to Cho Oyu
approach: Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2012-04-16
smtdate: 2012-05-16
termdate: 2012-05-19
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(16/04,4800m),ABC(20/04,5700m),C1(01/05,6400m),C2(14/05,7200m),xxx(16/05,8100m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  On their summit push Echeverria and Fica started from C2 at 2 am NST in good weather. They arrived at 8100m at 4 pm. It was foggy and bit windy. It was late for them to continue for the summit, so they turned around to C2 where they got at 9:30 pm. Next day they went down to ABC.


expid: GYAJ12101
peakid: GYAJ
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Kurt Speer
sponsor: Gyajikang Austrian Expedition
approach: Bus to Jagat, trek to Dharapani->Koto->Phugaon
bcdate: 2012-04-29
smtdate: 2012-05-08
termdate: 2012-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 6750m due to bad weather forecast, wind and snowfall
campsites: BC(29/04,4600m),C1(01/05,5600m),C2(05/05,6100m),C3(07/05,6450m),xxx(08/05,6750m)
agency: Himalayan Garden Treks
routememo:
  Gerhardter, Speer and Stiegler left C3 at 6 am on 8 May. They reached 6750m at around 9:30 am and snowfall started. All three descended at C3 at 11 am and continued to BC where they arrived at 6 pm. Last part of climbing route was steep, about 120m with blue ice. It was also very windy and danger of avalanche. 

  Rest of the members, Fauland, Gegg, Goedl, Gosch, Kreuzbichler and Tschiltsch went up to 6000m on 3 May.


expid: GYAJ12102
peakid: GYAJ
year: 2012
route1: W Face-W Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Vincent Krugel
sponsor: Love Gyajikang Expedition
approach: Bhulbhule->Jagat->Dharapani->Koto->Meta->Phugaon
bcdate: 2012-04-27
smtdate: 2012-05-04
termdate: 2012-05-11
termnote: Abandoned at 6050m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(27/04,4660m),C1A(04/05,6050m),C1B(08/05,5760m),xxx(04/05,6050m)
accidents: Krugel had breathing problem
agency: Churen Himal Treks
routememo:
  During summit attempt the team found very bad inconsistent snow conditions, waist-deep snow.

  Hired:
    Mulal Gurung
    Iman Gurung, Laprak, 14/3/81
    Suke


expid: LHOT12128
peakid: LHOT
year: 2012
route1: S Col-W Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Ajay Kothiyal
sponsor: Indian Army Women Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2012-04-16
smtdate: 2012-05-26
termdate: 2012-05-29
campsites: BC(16/04,5350m),C1(21/04,6100m),C2(27/04,6700m),C3(30/04,7200m),C4(19/05,7900m),Smt(18,26/05)
agency: Rimo Expeditions
routememo:
  The sirdar of the Indian Army Women's Expedition, Dawa Ongchu, directed the Everest Sherpas towards the end from C4, but he himself did not go to the summit of Everest (he had already been there four times), but went alone from C4 to Lhotse's summit on the 26th and back to C4 the same day.


expid: LHAY11301
peakid: LHAY
year: 2011
route1: E side
nation: USA
leaders: Benjamin Erdmann
approach: See route notes
bcdate: 2011-05-15
smtdate: 2011-05-20
termdate: 2011-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 5200m due to bad snow conditions and avalanche danger
campsites: BC(15/05,4500m),C1(20/05,5200m),xxx
agency: Splendid High Adventure
routememo:
  Approach: Mahendranagar, Gokuleshwor, Karkale, Chiureni, Makarighat, Seti,
            Bayalighad, Simar


expid: AMAD12331
peakid: AMAD
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Lydia Bradey
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Ama Dablam Expedition 2012
countries: Australia, Czech Republic, Germany, USA
bcdate: 2012-10-22
smtdate: 2012-11-03
smttime: 1130
campsites: BC(22/10,4430m),C1(25/10),C2(01/11,6100m),C3(02/11,6250m),Smt(03/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  See route details on AC website:

    http://www.adventureconsultants.com/adventure/AmaDablam2012Dispatches/

  Excerpt from web site:

  We left for the summit of Ama Dablam at 5.15am, Sange first, then RC on the fixed rope, then Lydia, then Roman and last, Kami Rita.

  Once we got around the funky shapes of the last bit of the Mushroom Ridge and up on top of the biggest Mushroom where old Camp three used to be, we felt the keenness of the wind. It was still dark but not for long, the sky lighting up gradually and presenting an impressive ridge line of jagged mountain shapes encircling us, except for the headwall above us.

  The climb of the snow and ice headwall of Ama Dablam took about 3 hours. We arrived on the summit between 3-3.5 hours after leaving the high camp. All the way up Kami hung out behind Roman, as Roman was initially struggling a bit (we all were!).

  Once on the main summit we had a great gathering and sit down and drank hot chocolate from thermoses. After gaining our breath we followed Sange to a small rise, still on foxed ropes, where a few prayer flags were afixed, and there we could see Everest RIGHT in our faces, Lhotse & Lhotse Shar, Nupste, Baruntse, Makalu, and in the distance Kangchenjunga the queen massif alone out West. What an amazing view from 6865m!

  ...That evening we made it all the way down from the summit to camp 2.7, 6250m, ate food and drank tea, then the Sherpas collected tha tents and carried our sleeping bags and we carried other stuff like down trousers, big gloves, a stove and fuel, etc and started the descent to camp one, 5800m.


expid: AMAD12333
peakid: AMAD
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Sonny Fase
countries: Belgium, Italy, UK
smtdate: 2012-11-16
campsites: Smt(16,18/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Debecker and Reiterer turned back on 16 Nov while Singi Lama carried their flag to the summit.

  Sonny Fase summited with Pasang Kaji on 18 Nov.

  Evan Hyde did not summit.

  All parties climbed separately.


expid: MANA12351
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Brazil
leaders: Manuel Montiero
smtdate: 2012-10-01
termdate: 2012-10-05
termnote: Abandoned due to avalanche and dangerous conditions
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4(01/10,7450m),xxx
agency: Himalayan Ecstasy Treks
routememo:
  Danny Gordin (email) - 9 Jan 2014

  Regarding my 2012 Manaslu climb:

  - I arrived to BC (4800m) on 11 Sept and left on 2 Oct.
  - I set C1 (5750m) on 15 Sept, C2 (6200m) on 20 Sept, C3 (6900m) on 29 Sept 
    and C4 (7450m) on 30 Sept.
  - I reached fore-summit at 10:40 am on 1 Oct. (where I met last 6 people - 2
    guided groups of 4 + 2 - descending from the summit) and true top of Manaslu
    (end of fixed line - ~2-3m distance from the summit mushroom) at 11:15 am. 
  - I climbed without oxygen and with no climbing Sherpas. My climbing partners 
    (Paul Hudson (Australian) and Manuel Morgado (Brazil)) stayed that morning 
    in C4 for another day and eventually were not able to summit :-(


expid: AMAD11372
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: David Abramczyk (Abramski)
bcdate: 2011-11-18
smtdate: 2011-11-24
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2011-11-26
campsites: BC(18/11),C1(20/11),C2(22/11),C3(23/11),Smt(24/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  David Abramczyk - 12 Sept 2013 (email)

  I left KTM on the 9th of November 2011. After climbing Island Peak on the 16th I got into Ama Dablam Base Camp around the 18th. I went to Camp I on the 20th and acclimatized one day. There I was joined by one climbing Sherpa and two Russians, one was named Evgeny [Elgaev], but him and his buddy don't speak much English. Attached is a photo of them with their "footprint" at Rum Doodle which has both of their names in Russian and confirms out summit date of Ama Dablam of November 24th, 2011. On the 22nd all four of us went to Camp II, and from there went to Camp III on the 23rd. For the summit push we left Camp III around 5 am. Brad Jackson from Australia and his group coming from Camp II passed us as we departed Camp III. Our group was the last to summit and we summited around 3 or 3:30 pm. Things got a bit funny after that when Evgeny, who's email I gave you, got separated from me and the others and fell into a crevasse in the evening. The Sherpa bolted ahead with the other member (in the photo and Evgeny's friend) leaving Evgeny and I behind, and I had to do the last 4 pitches or so abseiling in the dark. I got into Camp III and after bitching the Sherpa out he went back up and found him in a crevasse above and returned with him late around 10 pm. Evgeny had also lost his pack on the way up, so I lent him my down suit that night, the 24th, then we made our way down on the 25th. Evgeny was very despondent and hadn't eaten for what seemed like a few days. When we reached Camp I on the 25th at dusk I decided to stay there. Evgeny was very shakey and completely out of it, but the Sherpa wanted to B-line to base camp for his dal-bhat, so I decided to break with the group there because I thought the Sherpa was being negligent and was surprised that Evgeny made it down in one piece given his condition. I descended to Pangboche on the 26th, briefly stopping at base camp on the way.


expid: DHA112303
peakid: DHA1
year: 2012
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Slovakia
leaders: Vladimir Strba
sponsor: Slovakia Czech Dhaulagiri Expedition 2012
countries: Czech Republic
approach: Jomson by air, trek to Marpha->Dhampus Pass->French Pass
bcdate: 2012-09-25
smtdate: 2012-10-05
termdate: 2012-10-10
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(25/09,4750m),C1(28/09,5800m),C2(05/10,6600m),xxx
agency: Utmost Adventure
routememo:
  Team abandoned expedition due to bad weather (high winds, constant snowfall, and avalanching).


  Diary (roughly translated by Google from www.boat.sk/dhaulagiri/):

  20.9.2012 (Thursday)

  The expedition is happily in Jomsom. Flew by twin-engine plane to local airport. The weather is nice.

  Jomsom started a four-day walking march. The members of the expedition reached the lying at a height of 2670 meters, however part of the Marpha luggage remained at the airport in Pokhara.

  23.9.2012 (Sunday)

  The expedition spent the first two nights in the open air. The first at 3720m and the second at a height of 4780m. The third bed is in Hidden Valley at an altitude of 4970m, so should have come first to Dhampus Pass (5261m). The French Pass is full of snow, so probably won't be able to fetch the donkeys, but barrels will have to be carried by the members of the expedition. The night temperature was -3°C in the tent.

  25.9.2012 (Tuesday)

  The members of the expedition are after overcoming French Saddle (5360m) in the base camp at an altitude of 4750m. Yet all baggage, which is in the met and climbing gear, so that it cannot move forward without a campaign. When baggage arrives, the team is waiting to be transferred to high-altitude camp 1. Compared to the original plan, the expedition has about a three-day delay.

  Our base camp is not by itself. There are also other teams, which are gearing up to attack the summit, such as the Spaniards.

  30.9.2012 (Sunday)

  The expedition built a camp 1 at 5800m. All spent two nights there. Now they are back in the base camp on 4750m and to relax. Then you need to build a high-altitude camp. All the teams, which are under the Dhaulagiri, cooperate with each other.

  1.10.2012 (Monday)

  The members of the expedition spent today at base camp. Among other things, to do personal hygiene, as in such conditions is not easy. Tomorrow will be still and rest the day after tomorrow should be selected through the high-altitude camp C1 to C2.

  5.10.2012 (Friday)

  All are fine and are found in C2.

  8.10.2012 (Monday)

  The expedition is back at base camp after returning from C2.

  12.10.2012 (Friday)

  According to the latest reports on the deterioration of the weather all wrapped up and back down. Located in the Marpha.

  14.10.2012 (Sunday)

  The members of the expedition are now transferred by bus from Marpha to Pokhara.


expid: BARU11106
peakid: BARU
year: 2011
route1: SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Valier Galy
approach: See route notes
bcdate: 2011-04-23
smtdate: 2011-04-27
termdate: 2011-04-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to difficult snow conditions and member fatigue
campsites: BC(23/04,5450m),C1(26/04,6150m),C2(27/04,6500m),xxx
agency: Himalayan Vacation Trekking
routememo:
  Approach: Tumlingtar, Khadbari, Chichila, Num, Sedua, Tashigaon, Kogma, Yangle Kharka, Yak Kharka, Makalu BC, East Col/Sherpani Col.

  The team got to 6500m on 27 April. The expedition had to abandoned due to bad snow conditions and one member was too tired to continue climbing.

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Thile Sherpa, (12/8/2038) 27/11/81, Pawai-1


expid: MAKA12105
peakid: MAKA
year: 2012
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Luo Jing
bcdate: 2012-04-16
smtdate: 2012-05-10
smttime: 1910
termdate: 2012-05-13
campsites: BC(16/04,4870m),ABC(18/04,5700m),C2(04/05,6500m),C3(06/05,7400m),C4(07/11,7600m),Smt(10/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Rao, Lhakpa, Mingma, Pechhumbe and a Chinese woman [Luo Jing] left C4 and 3:40 am on 10 May. The team reached the summit at 7:10 pm, stayed on the summit for about 10 minutes, then returned to C4 at 3 am on 11 May and slept there. Next day 12 May they went down to ABC.

  Oxygen: 
    Up: almost reaching C3 (7200m) began to use oxygen just for climbing; 
        at C4 began to use oxygen also for sleeping
    Down: used oxygen until reached C2


expid: JOBO11101
peakid: JOBO
year: 2011
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Stephane Schaffter
countries: France
approach: Lukla->Namche->Thame->Arya
bcdate: 2011-05-11
smtdate: 2011-05-25
termdate: 2011-06-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(11/05,5200m),C1(12/05,5600m),xxx(25/05,6300m)
agency: Yeti Mountaineering & Trekking
routememo:
  BC  12/05  5500m
  C1   --	   5600m
  HPt 25/05  at 6300m by Schaffter, Carrard, Benoit, Müller, Pascal.

  Climb abandoned due to too much snow and too steep. It was impossible to secure the route with fixed ropes.

  Hired:
    Krishna Bahadur Tamang, 10/06/2025, Kaku-5


expid: CHOY12112
peakid: CHOY
year: 2012
route1: NW side
nation: Australia
leaders: Francis Lawrence
sponsor: Cho Oyu II
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2012-04-15
smtdate: 2012-05-09
termdate: 2012-05-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to severe cough
campsites: BC(15/04,4900m),ABC(19/04,5650m),C1(30/04,6360m),C2(09/05,6700m),xxx
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Lawrence and Basnet went up to C2 on 09 May. Lawrence suffered from severe cough and gave up further climbing.

  Hired:
    Aekindra Bahadur Basnet, 26/01/1987, Sunsari, Dharan 15


expid: BARU12107
peakid: BARU
year: 2012
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Chris Jewell
sponsor: Blue Mountain Baruntse Expedition
approach: Tumlingtar->Num->Sedua->Tashigaon->East Col->West Col
bcdate: 2012-05-02
smtdate: 2012-05-10
termdate: 2012-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to continuous snowing and low visibility
campsites: BC(02/05,5400m),C1(07/05,6100m),C2(09/05,6500m),xxx(10/05,6700m)
agency: Pike Expeditions & Treks
routememo:
  Jewell, Newman, Rinjin and Pasang left C2 at 5 am for summit. At about 6 am they reached at 6700m in bad weather and poor visibility due to snowfall that remained for whole day. They turned around from 6700m to C2 and continued down to BC.

  Fixed rope: 200m for West Col


expid: CHOY12114
peakid: CHOY
year: 2012
route1: NW side
nation: Lithuania
leaders: Robertas Noreika
sponsor: Lithuanian on Cho Oyu
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2012-04-16
smtdate: 2012-05-07
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2012-05-11
campsites: BC(16/04,5000m),ABC(20/04,5600m),C1(04/05,6350m),C2(06/05,7200m),C3(06/05,7700m),Smt(07/05)
accidents: Frostbite left-hand fingers except thumb of Norieka
agency: Cultural Treks (Snowy Horizon prmt)
routememo:
  Noreika and Phurtemba left C3 at 00:30 hrs (NST) of 7 of May, they got to the summit at 14:00 hrs of 7 May. They saw prayer flags on summit. They stayed on the summit for about 20 minutes. Noreika was very tired and could not go down further and stayed in open at middle of rock face. Phurtemba went down to C3. Next day 8 May morning Phurtemba came up and they went down together to C3 where Noreika realized that he had frostbite in his hand. After a few hours rest they continued to go down to C2 where they stayed 8th and 9th. On 10th they slept at C1. On 11th they got to ABC and same day left for Zhangmu.


expid: AMAD12338
peakid: AMAD
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Philippe Margolliet
sponsor: Arvipa Ama Dablam 2012
campsites: No Smt
agency: Adventure Camps Trekking
routememo:
  Members: 
    Didier Vaser
    Leon Roch
    Philippe Margolliet
    Stephane Margolliet
    Daniel Rey
    Philippe Lansard
    Francois Guillot


expid: AMAD12340
peakid: AMAD
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Marty Beare
countries: Australia
bcdate: 2012-10-14
smtdate: 2012-10-26
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2012-10-30
campsites: BC(14/10,4700m),C1(5700m),C2(),C3(25/10,6200m),Smt(26/10)
agency: Himalayan Ascent
routememo:
  Diane Westaway (email) - 3 Dec 2013

  We arrived [at base camp] around 14th October 2012, and left around the 30th October.

  We placed camps at all the standard locations, including mushroom ridge. I can't remember exactly, but we acclimatised on Lobouche, so we only did one climb to C1 before a rest day then a day at each C1, C2 and Mushroom [camp], before a midnight departure for the summit on 26th October.

  Marty, Tshering Sherpa and myself summited on 26th October around 10 am in perfect conditions with lots of others. Tshering Sherpa was amazing. He works for Himalayan Ascent; his uncle is Lhakpa Sherpa [the agency co-owner/manager].

  The only notable thing about may climb was that I did the world's highest handstand on the summit of Ama Dablam, but the Guinness World Records won't authorise it because they don't have a category for world's highest handstands. I also did
  handstands on Lakpa's ledge (5300m) and on Lobouche (6000m).


expid: AMAD12341
peakid: AMAD
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Ryszard Pawlowski
sponsor: Patagonia Mountain Agency (PMA) Ama Dablam Expedition 2012
bcdate: 2012-11-12
smtdate: 2012-11-17
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2012-11-18
othersmts: Summited Island Peak 5-6 Nov
campsites: BC(12/11,4600m),C1(13/11,5700m),C3(16/11,6300m),Smt(17/11)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Four members of the team and their only Sherpa, Goralczyk, Pawlowski, Pieniazek and Poznanski, arrived at their highest camp C3 on 16 November. They set out for the summit at 7:30 am on the 17th and reached the top at 1:00 pm. Goralczyk and Pawlowski descended all the way to C1 at 8:00 pm while the other two members and Lhakpa Chhiri stopped at C3 at 4:00 pm. They were in C1 on the 17th. The entire team was together in BC on the 18th and left the same day for Lukla.

  Mroczek climbed to C1 with the team, but then had to stop because he had the flu so went back to BC. He waited there for the others to finish their climb.

  Sherpa: 
    Lakpa Chhiri Sherpa (aka Sonam), 17/11/74, Pangboche, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X1


expid: AMAD12342
peakid: AMAD
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Pat Hollingworth
countries: Norway, UK
bcdate: 2012-11-10
smtdate: 2012-11-17
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2012-11-18
othersmts: Summited Lobuche East
campsites: BC(10/11,4600m),C1(14/11,5700m),C2(15/11,6000m),C3(16/11,6300m),Smt(17/11)
agency: Himalayan Ascent
routememo:
  Pat Hollingworth (blog) - 25 Nov 2012

  As I alluded to in some of my phone dispatches, Ama Dablam is not the easiest of mountains to climb, and was certainly harder than I was expecting. As my friend and co-director of Himalayan Ascent Sumit describes it, "once you're above Camp 1 it's like white-water rafting, with rapid after rapid and no let-up".

  The terrain up to Camp 1 is pretty straightforward although due to a late start from BC on the Wednesday we were only settling into our tents at dusk. We were underway relatively early on the Thursday morning and found the climbing over granite to be nice and interesting as we headed up towards Camp 2. The real sting in the tail however is the a vertical headwall called the Yellow Tower, and it's located just below Camp 2. At over 6000m in altitude it really takes a lot of energy to work your way up it, all the while being well aware of the exposure tugging at our backs. Once in Camp 2 we enjoyed the views and simply recovered, because we knew the next few days were going to be much harder.

  And they were! Right out of Camp 2 we reached the foot of the Grey Tower, which is a mixed band of steep rock, ice and snow. This took a few hours to work our way through, after which we gained access to the Mushroom Ridge - a narrow (sometimes only 30cm wide) ridge of snow with immense drops on either side. Above that we placed our third camp underneath an overhanging cornice. It was at least out of the wind and gave us a good night's rest, despite being at 6300m.

  The next morning we were away from our tents by 8.30 am and the summit push was underway. Fortunately it wasn't too cold, with temps probably being in the minus 10-15 degrees range. Above the shoulder the route skirts to the right of the hanging serac, and after about two hours of climbing we were above it and out of harm's way (relatively speaking of course) and it was the relentless ridge of snow all the way up to the summit ridge. As I mentioned in my phone dispatch, the guys did a great job as they worked hard and topped out onto the summit just after midday.

  Lakpa Sherpa, Jaime McMullen and Atle Lunde topped out at about 12.30pm, followed shortly after by Steve Pearce and Dende Sherpa. Chhiring Sherpa and myself brought up the rear and we topped out at about 1 pm.

  The descent was long and at times stressful, but upon returning to BC on Sunday afternoon (or evening in my case!) the relief set-in and the celebrations commenced.


expid: AMAD12344
peakid: AMAD
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Chris Jensen Burke
sponsor: A Kiwi to Ama Dablam
bcdate: 2012-11-21
smtdate: 2012-11-29
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2012-11-30
campsites: BC(21/11,4700m),C1(22/11,5800m),C2(23/11,6000m),C3(24/11,6250m),Smt(29/11)
agency: Himalayan Ascent
routememo:
  From Christine Burke's blog (www.chrisjensenburke.com):

  Nov 23:

  After being blasted by icy cold winds taking the temperature down to -5 degrees, Chris and Lakpa have reached the refuge of Camp 1 of Ama Dablam at approximately 5800m (22 November).

  With no respite from the gusty conditions forecast for the next few days and 90km winds predicted for the 24th, the plan is to make their way to Camp 3 at around 6250m to sit it out and wait for a suitable summit window which will hopefully come on the 25th.

  Nov 24:

  Thankfully the forecast high winds didn't eventuate yesterday (23rd November) and Chris and Lapka were able to reach Camp 2 in just over 3 hours of climbing up steep rock with minimal snow. This part of the climb includes the steepest section of the mountain, the Yellow Tower, so it's great to have that behind them now.

  Camp 2 itself consists of just 5 tents on a small ledge and they're bunking in with another team seeing as there's just no room for more. Sadly, being late in the season, many climbers have been and gone before them and much rubbish remains which needs cleaning up.

  Today (24th) is another big day up to Camp 3 at approximately 6250m and includes getting up the intimidatingly named "Grey Tower" of snow, rock and ice and then Mushroom Ridge. Fingers crossed that conditions remain good and those winds don't appear.

  Nov 24:

  What a difference a few hours can make on the mountain. It looks like yesterday was the calm before the storm as Camp 2 was pounded by fierce winds throughout the night and they are forecast to go up to 110km/hr today (24h November). For now everyone is staying put, trying to secure the tents as best as possible and hoping the winds will drop as projected for tomorrow.

  In the morning, if conditions are favourable, Chris and Lakpa have decided to make a push straight for the summit, bypassing Camp 3 altogether. There's a 50% success rate this way but Chris is feeling great and raring to give it her best shot. Stay tuned!

  Nov 25:

  Today (25th November) the strong winds made it too dangerous to go any higher so instead of the planned summit push, Chris and Lakpa decided on a complete change of tack and are going back down to Base Camp to pick up more food supplies, rest and wait for the better weather that is predicted for the 27th, 28th and 29th. When the time is right they'll head up again.

  Nov 29:

  Describing it as "probably the toughest single day on record bar the Everest summit, she and Lakpa reached Ama Dablam’s summit just after lunch Nepal time, and they had it all to themselves as the only and last climbers on the mountain this season.

  After one and half days rest at Base Camp, the summit push began on 27th November with a 7-hour climb straight to Camp 2. Yesterday’s attempt to skip Camp 3 was nixed however after Chris felt her energy levels were a bit low.

  Due to the brutal conditions Chris and Lakpa only made it back down to Camp 3 tonight so they still have a huge day ahead of them tomorrow along the hardest section with high winds forecast again.


expid: AMAD12346
peakid: AMAD
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Benjamin Bradford
sponsor: Vertical Frontiers Ama Dablam Expedition 2012
bcdate: 2012-10-23
smtdate: 2012-11-04
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2012-11-06
campsites: BC(23/10,4700m),C1(27/10,5700m),C2(03/11,6000m),Smt(04/11)
agency: Happy Feet Mountaineers
routememo:
  Vertical Frontiers (Ben Bradford) blog:

  Nov 7, 2012 (3rd post):

  The team are back in Namche Bazar having walked out of basecamp this morning.

  It already seems a while ago that we were stood on the summit of Ama Dablam, even though only two days have passed. It worked out well in the end, and the main priority of the trip being to return safe and sound with reaching the top a secondary bonus.

  Starting from Camp 2 means a long day, we set off at 2 am, topping out at 11.30 and getting back to camp 2 at 5.30 in the evening.

  Technical climbing in the dark up the Grey Tower led us onto the Mushroom Ridge which was just as spectacular as the last time I climbed the mountain. Steve had to turn around at this point with a bad altitude induced dizziness spell. There was no way he could continue so after some rest Lombarbu [Lama Babu] Sherpa and himself headed back down the ropes to Camp 2. A real shame for Steve and we all felt for him after he had put so much effort into getting as far as he did.

  It was cold and windy as we walked across the plateau of Camp 3 and I was very glad we didn't camp there this year, with ice debris from the hanging serac on the snow and the wind whistling across the ridge, I was thankful we were there just a few minutes, let alone a whole night.

  The final snow slopes leading to the summit are very hard work, and I had to restate our strict turn around time to the team which had the benefit of renewed commitment and we were on the summit just half an hour later!

  It was completely different to my last time, almost a different mountain on the summit. We were there just 15 minutes before we started abseiling down the fixed ropes back towards our camp.

  Nov 7, 2012 (2nd post):

  We're back down at basecamp for a couple of rest days before our summit attempt, and I thought I'd escape basecamp for a couple of hours and send some photos to the blog.

  Four days on the mountain has left everyone a little fatigued, so some rest, and a lot of eating is needed before we head back up again.

  We had perfect weather for our acclimatisation trip, with very light winds and clear skies which was great for our journey along the ridge towards Camp 2. Our two climbing sherpas, Tendi and Lombarbu were with us for this technical section of the ridge and we got to just about 6000m before turning around to head back to Camp 1.

  It looks like our summit day will be around the 4th November, weather depending.

  Nov 7, 2012 (1st post):

  We've had a few nights at basecamp now, settling into a routine and getting prepared for our first acclimatisation journey onto the mountain.

  Yesterday we walked about four hours up to an Advanced Basecamp (ABC) to drop some gear off and more importantly get acclimatised to that altitude (5450m). It's very straightforward walking but at that height it is quite hard work, especially with a rucksack on. Having dropped our stash of food and boots it was a quick hour and a half back down to base and a late lunch.

  Today we are waiting for our Puja ceremony where a local Lama walks up from the village to bless our expedition and wish us a safe passage on the mountain. It's an important occasion for our Sherpa’s as well as us and a great deal of preparation goes into the event.

  Tomorrow we will head up to ABC to spend the night before climbing up to Camp 1 where we will spend two nights and climb almost to Camp 2 before coming back down to base camp. This will complete our acclimatisation and the next time we head up it will be our summit attempt.

  Finally, the team are enjoying themselves and loving the good basecamp food prepared by our cook Pasang, and we've had a couple of cinema nights on my laptop, which provide some welcome entertainment and a break from thinking about the mountain.


expid: AMAD12350
peakid: AMAD
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Steffen Hirzel
countries: Australia
bcdate: 2012-11-12
smtdate: 2012-11-19
smttime: 1145
termdate: 2012-11-21
campsites: BC(12/11,4400m),ABC(15/11,53000m),C1(16/11,5800m),C2(17/11,6000m),C3(18/11,6300m),Smt(19/11)
agency: Happy Feet Mountaineers
routememo:
  Hirzel and  Ang Dawa started their summit bid from C3 at 7:30 am. They got to the top at 11:45 am, stayed on summit for about 30 minutes, then returned to C3 at 4 pm. Next day 20 Nov went down to BC.


expid: MANA12352
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Canada
leaders: Al Hancock
approach: Samagaon
bcdate: 2012-09-10
smtdate: 2012-09-29
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2012-10-01
campsites: BC(10/09,4800m),C1(15/09,5600m),C2(21/09,6500m),C3(27/09/7100m),C4(28/09,7400m),Smt(29/09)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  10 Sep  4800m
  C1  15 Sep  5600m
  C2  21 Sep  6500m
  C3  27 Sep  7100m
  C4  28 Sep  7400m
  Smt 29 Sep  by Hancock and Pemba at 10:30 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 2 am. Weather was cold and crisp. Seven Summit Sherpas fixed the rope to the summit just in front of Hancock. Straightforward climb, no long delays. They spent about 15 minutes on the summit. Hancock was very cold as he had lost his down suit and other high-altitude clothing in the avalanche on 23 Sept. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 2 pm and stayed the night. The following day they descended to BC. 

  On 22 Sept he did a carry to C3 and left his high-altitude gear in a tent. He did not stay the night as he wanted to go back to BC to rest for the summit attempt; otherwise he would have been caught in the avalanche. He lost all his gear though.

  After Manaslu he went trekking in Mustang.

  Sherpa:
    Pemba, Makalu


expid: HIML12311
peakid: HIML
year: 2012
route1: W Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Luke Smithwick
sponsor: Project Himalaya Himlung 2012
countries: Australia, Denmark, Germany
bcdate: 2012-10-02
smtdate: 2012-10-14
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to exhaustion
campsites: BC(02/10),C1(06/10,5600m),C2(12/10),C3(13/10),xxx(14/10,6900m)
agency: Happy Feet Mountaineers
routememo:
  Lars Andersson blog:

  23 October 2012 entry:

  It has been some time since the last update to the blog but here is a final entry.

  We had the final day of our summit attempt on 14/10. We woke up at 3am and got away in the cold at about 4am. I guess it was between -10 to -15 degrees outside. The day started with a 150 meter decent into a "saddle", then it was uphill again. After a few hours I felt that this wasn't my day, the last three days had been good but now the body complained. I turned around while the others continued. My way back was really testing me as I was really tired. When I finally came back to camp 3 I was exhausted and fortunately Mara was there to help me get fed and hydrated. The others continued several hours longer but it had been slow progress. They reached about 6900 meters and then they also turned around, this meant that there were still no summits by any team this season.

  On the 15th we decended all the way to basecamp, this was a decent from 6300 meters down to 4800 meyers. It was a long day with quite heavy loads during the final leg from Camp 1 to basecamp.

  On the 16th we packed up basecamp, loaded everything on mules and decended to the village of Phu.

  On the 17th we had an 11 hour long walk all the way down to Koto. This was a decent of about 1400 meters so the air got thicker and thicker along the day. On the way up we had used two 8 hour days for the same distance, doing the reverse in one day was quite a task. When we finally arrived in Koto it was almost dark and there was drizzle in the air too.

  On the 18th we managed to get seats in jeeps taking us all the way from Koto to Besisahar, a ride of 9 hours. This ride was along the new road that has been built over the last few years, the very same road that we saw on our way up and that we commented as crazy. Now we suddenly were sitting in a jeep in the middle of a cliff face, it was pretty exciting. The road was just opened the day before and we were apparently the first westeners to go on this road. It was pretty cramped ride though, we were 11 adults and one baby in a jeep of the size of a Land Crouser.

  On the 19th we did the final leg of our 5 day journey from Camp 3 to Kathmandu. This time the means of transport was a hired bus.

  On the 20th and 21st we had a couple of lazy days in Kathmandu. We were just shopping, eating, drinking coffee and looking at people.

  Now I am home again with lots of memories and photos. I will try to sort out the photos and post here at some point in the future.

  17 October 2012 entry:

  11th - 15th October
  11th October:
  Climbed to Camp 1, resting and playing cards.

  12th October:
  Climbed up to Camp 2 and settled down for the night.

  13th October:
  Climbed even higher, arrived at our Camp 3 for the first time.

  14th October:
  Today was our summit attempt. We woke up at 3am for a 4am start. After climbing for 5 hours I realised I wasn't going to make it to the summit today, I decided to turn back. The landscape was just beautiful, I was walking on a glacier with enormous crevasses. On the way I had passed ravines and other majestic natural formations.

  Unfortunately no-one in our team made it to the summit today, as they all had to turn back a few hours after I did.

  15th October:
  Back in Base camp, it's nice to be able to breath again. One of our team members has some problems with his toes, we are still waiting for him to get back to base camp to see if it is frostbite or not. We may need to call for help to get him back to Kathmandu.

  9 October 2012 entry:

  6 October:
  Today we walked up to Camp 1 and stayed the night.

  7 October:
  We did an acclimatization walk up to Camp 2 today, and then we walked back to Camp 1 to spend the night. I however got a stomach ache on the way up to Camp 2, so I decided to sit down and rest, while the others continued to Camp 2. It was beautiful weather and I had great views. It took them about 1.5 hours to get back to me, by which time I felt fine again.

  8 October:
  Today we trekked back down to Base Camp and I got to have my first shower for a few days, so now I am nice and clean again.

  9 October:
  Today we went for a 3 hour walk, had a nice lunch and then we played cards - so a pretty relaxing day. Last night the temperature in the tent was -7 degrees. In two days time we will make a push for the summit, as long as the weather stays fine. Until then... more cards.

  4 October 2012 entry:

  3rd October:
  Today was a rest day. I felt a little tired and had no energy, so I didn't go with the others on their acclimatisation tour, but instead walked a bit around the camp. Our base camp is at 4900m and it is now starting to get cold. I have developed a frog in my throat because of the cold winds. I've had some problems with my stomach but the drugs are now starting to kick in.

  4th October:
  Today we had a puja; a lama came to bless all the things we are going to carry up on the mountain. We put all our packs and gear onto a stone altar and he walked around it chanting and throwing rice and water onto our gear, while we were drinking tea, whiskey and eating food. Now that everything is blessed the Sherpas feel that we can bring it all up on the mountain.
   
  We carried all the gear that we will be needing at Camp 1 (5600m) there and set up the tents. Then we walked back to Base Camp. Tomorrow will be a rest day again, and I think I will need it.


expid: ANN112116
peakid: ANN1
year: 2012
route1: N Face
nation: USA
leaders: Don Bowie
sponsor: Bowie to Annapurna I
approach: By helicopter to BC
bcdate: 2012-03-26
smtdate: 2012-04-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to personal emergency back home
campsites: BC(26/03,4200m),C1(30/03,5000m),C2(01/04,5500m),C3(18/04,6400m),xxx(18/04)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Details from www.donbowie.com blog

  Flew by helicopter Pokhara to Annapurna Base Camp at 4200m.

  March 29 - I've now been in camp for 3 days. All staff, gear, and climbers are here now, too. Yesterday, one of the Spanish climbers and I scrambled up a narrow ridge to 4700m in order to acclimatize a little because base camp is very low at 4160m. Tomorrow I'll set off to spend 2 nights at 5100m and 1 night at 5600m and to get a better look at the mountain above.

  March 30 - Reached Camp 1 today on Annapurna at 5000m.

  April 4 - There are 12 people sharing our climbing permit, a varied group hailing from Spain, Mexico, Switzerland, Iran, Turkey, China, the USA, and me: the Canadian. The route to Camp 1 here on the north side is similar to the route to Camp 1 on the south side of Annapurna, where I made two previous attempts; the first in 2006 and then again in 2008.

  April 13 - I was hoping to go to Camp 3 at least once to acclimatize before a summit push, so I started up alone from Camp 2 last Tuesday morning until I got about 200 meters from the upper north wall proper. A few Sherpa's had fixed the ridge up to 6600 meters the day before, but now I was breaking new trail in the fresh snow, alone, and at every step I became increasingly aware of the amount of snowfall that had occurred over the past week. And with last night's dump of 20cm, I was wondering if the accumulation was getting dangerous.

  When I got back to Camp 2, I put down my pack and began to share my dangerous snow evaluation with some of the others in Camp 2. Just then, a VERY big slab avalanche  peeled off from above the couloir we pass under on the route to Camp 3. We all looked up in awe at the massive cloud billowing in the chute. From where we watched at Camp 2 the noise was muffled at first, but then a roar developed - not the harsh, thunderous roar of the ice avalanches - but a soft, deep rumble of a snow avalanche. It blasted across the climbing route and made its way much farther down the mountain. Had I not turned around when I did, the avalanche and I would have likely met.

  April 17 - Phone Dispatch from Don: "At Camp 2 now for the night. Heading up to Camp 3 at 6800m in morning of 4/18/12 for a few days acclimatization. Winds high on the mountain are rather precarious right now, so will make a decision to go further as the weather unfolds."

  April 19 - Don phoned to say that he was back down in Camp 2 after just coming from two nights stay in Camp 3. The weather conditions for the past couple of days have not been good, so he has decided to head back down to base camp today. He mentioned that there were a few avalanches and said that his tent got wrecked in Camp 3, but also said that no one was hurt.

  April 21 - In just 24 hours, the international group of climbers attempting Annapurna endured 3 separate avalanche events, and somehow survived them all.


  A complete and graphic detail of the avalanches is given on Don Bowie's blog at www.donbowie.com


expid: AMAD12351
peakid: AMAD
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jacques Marmet
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to equipment problems
campsites: BC,C1,C2,xxx(6200m)
agency: Makalu Adventure?
routememo:
  Translated from website of Jacques Marmet by Rodolphe Popier:

     http://www.jacques-marmet.fr/index.php?p=seeactu&idac=69

  This third expedition on this gorgeous mountain is half a success. I aimed to complete two challenges indeed:

  First one was to establish a speed record ascent for the peak. This one is a complete success as from Kathmandu to the summit push I only needed 9 days (approach march/trekking included) whereas 18 days are normally necessary for the same program. I even managed to shorten the program I planned for myself, knowing to reduce at maximum the expedition time on a 7000er without getting AMS sickness and without using any medicine.

  Second one was to reach the top. I organized this expedition alone with my friend Phurba Sherpa. For budget reasons, I had to participate to the carrying of the gear: tent, technical gear, gas, food, sleeping bag, etc., meaning Phurba was carrying 40 kg and me 20 kg. Until C1 we asked to our basecamp cook to help with carrying part of the gear. Day after our arrival to C1, we went straight to C2. Day after I took a day rest, whereas Phurba made a round trip to C1 to pick up some gear remnants left there.

  Then we preferred not using C3, but to attempt to reach the summit straight from C2, in alpine style, with a very light bag for Phurba and only my camelbag for me with some proteins bars. We started at 1 am the day after for the top, but after 1 hour, the unexpected grain of sand went into the wheels of our machine: my headlamp collapsed, catching fire likely due to a shortcircuit? Trapped in a delicate mixed section within the night, without any moon =light, it was impossible to continue, so we instead turned back, renouncing to the summit a priori within reach! 


expid: LUNR12302
peakid: LUNR
year: 2012
route1: W Face of Lunag I
nation: USA
leaders: David Gottlieb
sponsor: Lunag I Expedition
approach: Charikot->Beding->Tashi Laptsa->Namche->Thami->BC
bcdate: 2012-10-25
smtdate: 2012-11-06
termdate: 2012-11-12
termnote: Abandoned at 6450m due to route difficulty and lack of climbing partner
othersmts: Climbed Jobo Rinjang (JOBO-123-01)
campsites: BC(25/10,5150m),ABC(26/10,5425m),xxx(06/11,6450m)
agency: Climb High Himalaya
routememo:
  The two-member American teams attempted peaks in the Lunag range on the north and south sides of the Lunag Glacier south-southwest of the Nangpa La. Since the Lunag peaks are not listed by the Tourism Ministry as open for climbing, the teams obtained permits for nearby Jobo Rinjang, north-northwest of the Nangpa La, a peak which is open.

  This team of David Gottleib and Chad Kellogg aimed for the summit of the peak they designated as Lunag I, standing alone north of Lunag Glacier. They made their BC at 5030m on the moraine on the south side of the Lunag Glacier on 25 October.

  Gottlieb became seriously ill with an upper respiratory infection, which forced him to leave the climb on the 4th. He went down to Namche Bazar on the 6th or 7th.

  Meanwhile, Kellogg had occupied their ABC for a climb of Lunag I's West Face, on the Lunag Glacier at 5425m on 1 November. On the 4th he went up the Nangpa Glacier, which joins the Lunag Glacier at right angles along the east side of Lunag I, to reconnoitre a possible escape route off the Nangpa La side of the Lunag group in case it would not be possible to descend their intended ascent route on the West Face of Lunag I. He went as far as 5200m towards a second high-camp site, then back to BC the same day.

  On the 5th, Kellogg returned to ABC and climbed two pitches (400 feet) on the left side of Lunag I's West Face, which was 75 degrees steep, to 5500m and back to ABC.  The next day he climbed the same two pitches up to 6450m. But now the face was "raining" non-stop falling rocks which he believed were caused by an earthquake and which did not injure him, but tore open his backpack. He took shelter under a serac at 6450m and decided it was too dangerous to continue. To compound his problems, a wind was "screaming" in from Tibet. He got back to ABC.

  He said he had gotten "a good sense of the route," but he was "not interested" in a solo attempt and would wait until next year to complete the climb with Gottlieb. He had tried to climb the route he and Gottlieb had planned for Lunag I this autumn, but conditions were not favorable. He was back in BC on the 7th; he and their cook returned to ABC to clear their gear which they brought down to BC on the 8th; and he rested on the 9th.

  Kellogg now decided to repeat the route on nearby Jobo Rinjang which Gottlieb and Joe Puryear had pioneered in spring 2009. So on the 10th, he set up ABC for Jobo Rinjang (Pt 6777m on the Schneider Khumbu map) at 5100m on the Lunag Glacier south of this peak. He left his ABC on the 11th at 4:00 am, was on the top at noon and back in ABC at 5:30 pm the same day. He had climbed the South Face of Jobo Rinjang, which sloped at 45-75 degrees (steeper at higher altitudes).

  On the 12th, Kellogg dismantled ABC and took it down to BC, loaded all their gear on yaks, and descended to Namche Bazar to meet Gottlieb again. His climbs in the Lunag group were over for this year. Now they trekked in two days to Lukla; Kellogg flew to Kathmandu on the 15th, while Gottlieb continued on foot down to Jiri for a bus to Kathmandu.


  From Chad Kellogg's blog:

  The morning of November 6th was cold. I woke up early and packed four days of food, fuel, clothing and equipment to try and solo a new route to the top of Lunag Ri. When fully loaded with gear and all I felt the weight of the 60 lbs. Determined, I headed off slowly and made the way back to the base of the ropes I had fixed the evening before. I removed the bottom anchor and began to climb and jumar up the lines. I dropped one line and climbed the remaining rope to the high point. The sun began to sweep up the face and the whir of rockfall began. I coiled the single line and strapped it to the top and sides of my pack.

  Upward progress was made 20 moves at a time. The rhythm of swing, kick, kick repeated itself over and over until a rest was frequently needed. As I moved into the hourglass at the top of the lower ramp the situation felt dangerous. I got hit in the helmet twice, but the Half Dome helmet deflected the impacts without injury. Going up seemed safer than going down. I turned the corner and took shelter under an overhang of rock. I wanted to cross the drainage gulley to the left side and get out on the face below a serac to avoid most of the rockfall. The issue was the number of high velocity objects hurling themselves down the gully, as many as 15-20 a minute. I waited, then waited some more. There must be a break when I can cross soon I thought. I looked way up the face to see what was falling and from where. The sun was melting the ice on the face and the high winds were blowing objects loose which were then creating a cascading effect. 

  Ok NOW! I climbed as quickly as I could to the edge of the gully. Bam, a big rock hit the snow two feet to my left and ricocheted into my arm. Go, go go! I dropped into the winding luge course and tried to climb out. What? My right leg was pinned. Taking precious seconds I discovered that my v-threader hook on my harness had caught my pant-leg at calf level and I could not move. In desperation I pulled the hook through the pants and climbed as fast as I could up the slope and away from the shooting gallery. Panting heavily I tried to catch my breath again at 19,000 ft after the dash upwards.

  I now climbed up under a serac. The odds of a release were small, but my eyes kept darting upwards looking for potential weaknesses and keeping a wary eye out for other incoming projectiles. Slowly inching up the ice I felt small and exposed. Whunph! I could hear the high velocity of the rocks whizzing through the air, tuning in closely to hear how close they were. I was using every piece of terrain for cover. Now I had perfected the best position for defense. Ice tools in front of my face, face top the snow with my helmet cocked back just a bit to cover the base of my skull, toplid pf the pack covering my neck, pack covering my torso and arms and legs tucked in beneath my body. Ironically I felt like a tortoise.

  The days grew warmer and I was nervously sweating. I traversed to the right and made good progress to the right side of the serac and around that object, but closer to the base of the wall. I was making progress, but the weight of the pack was taking a toll. By 3 pm I made my way up to beneath two ice clumps. I dug a small cave beneath the ice and put in an ice anchor on the 65 degree slope. Ok, I will leave my pack here and take the rope up to the ridge crest to have a look onto the other side. This area was around 20,500 ft.

  I climbed up a few hundred feet and was bombed directly. Scared I decided that continuing on was a bad idea. I down climbed back to my pack and the protection of the small ice wall and thought things over. Dang it! The winds were blowing hard from Tibet and depositing snow and ice chunks onto the upper ramp. The winds on the face I am trying to get to must be blowing 60-75 mph. The wall above is dropping so many rocks and blocks of ice that climbing is unsafe during the day. I am solo and this is not adding up. This all added up to my retreat down as soon as the sun goes down and things freeze back into place.

  I put in another screw and hung the reactor stove from the wall and brewed up some water. I had not taken a pee once today. Dehydration is not your friend anytime, but at altitude it can speed up the likelihood of frostbite and illness. I went to work to remedy the situation while relatively protected.

  I watched the shadows creep up the face and towards the summit as the sun set behind the ridge. I stood up for a minute to pack things away and got blasted in the chest and left hand by two rocks at the same time. Arghhh. Luckily I was wearing a pair of OR leather insulated gloves and my hand was not broken, but my jacket had gotten ripped to shreds. I cowered and collected myself together. I just want to get down in one piece. I had waited for days at the base of the wall and had never seen or heard this type of action before. Why today? What had changed?

  Having ingested three liters of water in the past two hours I felt more hydrated. The face was now in the shade and things seemed to have quieted down. I threaded the rope for the first rappel and began the descent. I pulled the rope and let it hang from the back of my harness on the haul loop. I down climbed the ascent route. The areas of ice steeper than 70 degrees were worked out carefully in reverse. Hours went by as my headlamp stared at my feet and into the darkness below.

  The occasional clatter of falling rocks and ice reminding me that it was still a long way back to ABC. I ran across the gully to the protection of the overhang and listened. Ok. Make a v-thread and rap the next rotten ice section. Check! I made my way back down through the hourglass onto the lower ramp. The calves and Achilles tendons were beginning to protest. Come on keep it together for a couple more hours, I tellepathed to the muscles. I climbed back through the easy mixed sections careful not to dull my picks on the thin ice.

  Then I picked up the faint blue color of my Mammut rope below. I was only five hundered feet above the avalanche cone. Yes. Encouraged, I down climbed a thin ice runnel and set a rock anchor. A nice stopper placement and a knife blade equalized were bomber. I rappelled 200 feet to a solid section of ice and put in a v-thread anchor. The final rappel! Both ropes pulled clean and I coiled them beneath a large rock roof. As quickly as I could I made my way down and away from any potential rockfall. Tired, I rolled into camp at 11 pm, dropped my pack and set up ABC again. Despite only being 16 hours, the climb had taken a toll, mostly on my mind. I brewed up more water and ate a freeze dried meal before passing out.


expid: BARU12311
peakid: BARU
year: 2012
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Soren Ledet
sponsor: World Expedition 2012 Baruntse Expedition
countries: Denmark, UK
approach: Paphlu->Kharikhola->Khare->Mera La->BC
bcdate: 2012-10-19
smtdate: 2012-10-24
termdate: 2012-10-26
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to poor snow conditions with heavy cornicing
othersmts: Climbed Mera Central on 16 Oct
campsites: BC(19/10,5450m),C1(22/10,6100m),C2(23/10,6400m),xxx(24/10,6700m)
agency: Highland Excursions
routememo:
  Trip started on Sept 29 in Kathmandu, flew Paphlu on Oct 2.
  Acclimatization trek via Panch Pokhari and summit Mera Central (6470m) on Oct 16.
  Arrived Baruntse BC (5450m) on Oct 19
  C1 on West Col (6100m) on Oct 22
  C2 (6400m) on Oct 23
  High point on Oct 24 and returned to BC
  Departed BC on Oct 26 to Amphu Laptsa, Dingpoche, Namche and Lukla
  Flew to Kathmandu on Nov 2
  Trip concluded on Nov 4

  When we arrived at BC on Oct 19 nobody had yet summited Baruntse. As far as I know German, Japanese and Austrian expeditions were in BC at that time. Most had managed to reach a large crevasse at around 6900m on the South Ridge, but the route beyond that point was very difficult; steep, heavily corniced and very poor snow conditions.

  Our Sherpas managed to fix this difficult section but on the morning of our summit attempt we were hit by severe wind gusts in C2 (80km +) and were unable to move up. All of our contingency days had been used up and so I had no choice but to descend.

  No oxygen was used.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Tamang, Lura, Solu, Ama Dablam summit, Cho Oyu attempt
    Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa, Phakding, Everest, Cho Oyu, Baruntse, etc
    Nawang Sherpa
    Bikash Rana (Trainee)
    Tsering Lama (Trainee)

  The three primary Sherpas reached an altitude of 7000m as they were fixing the rope, but abandoned it due to bad weather.


  Soren Ledet (email to Billi)

  Murray and Ledet reached 6700m however the weather was bad and the conditions on the mountain were difficult. Soren, who was the expedition leader, told him to go back.

  Other members:

  Marriott reached 6600 on 24 Oct and turned back due to bad weather and conditions.

  Townsden to 6400m (C2) on 23 Oct; he was unwell and descended to BC. 

  Kirsty McHenry to 6400m (C2) on 23 Oct; happy with high point and descended to BC.

  Jay to 6400m (C2) on 23 Oct; happy with high point and descended to BC.

  Gillman reached Kare at 5000m on 14 Oct; she had HACE and 3 blood clots and was evacuated by helicopter on 14 Oct.

  Allen reached Kharikhola on 4 Oct; she had fallen on the approach trek and injured her lower back. She was evacuated by helicopter on 4 Oct.

  Peck's highest point was Mera Peak on 16 Oct. His partner Debbie Gillman was evacuated with suspected HACE on October 14 from Khare. After summiting Mera Peak, he descended with the group to Kongma Dingma and had a scheduled rest-day on 17 Oct. He made contact with agent in Kathmandu on the 17 Oct and was advised Debbie's condition was very serious. He abandoned the expedition and left for Kathmandu on a helicopter on 18 Oct.


expid: JOBO12301
peakid: JOBO
year: 2012
route1: SW Face
nation: USA
leaders: Chad Kellogg
ascent1: 2nd
approach: Charikot->Beding->Tashi Laptsa->Namche->Thami->BC
bcdate: 2012-10-25
smtdate: 2012-11-11
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2012-11-12
campsites: BC(25/10,5150m),ABC(10/11,5030m),Smt(11/11)
agency: Climb High Himalaya?
routememo:
  From Chad Kellogg's blog:

  I began to assemble my gear and told Dawa of my plans to set another ABC at the base of Jobo Rinjang on the 10th. I could see a possible one day ascent of the peak and an early carry back to Base Camp on the morning of November 12th before the yaks were ready.

  On December 10th I packed up my tent, sleeping back, Neo Air mattress, some bars and water bottles. Dawa headed down to get the yaks and I made my way back to the gear cached in the talus. After collecting all of the equipment I made my way across the dry Lunag Glacier. By 4 pm I had found and made a small flat area near a frozen tarn. I brewed up on my Reactor stove and settled into my sleeping bag where I could listen to the face of Jobo Rinjang for activity. Mostly quiet!

  I woke up early on November 11th. I packed a rope, 4 ice screws, 3 knife blade pitons, 2 draws, a stove and fuel bottle, OR Alti mitts, two water bottles and insulating covers, my down jacket and glacier glasses. I was moving by 4:10 am. The climb would require several switch backs across ledges up to where the snow began. 

  I made it to the base of the snow and up 1500 ft by 6:15 am. Glad to be on firm snow and ice instead of the rubble covered rock slabs I put on my crampons and set up my ice tools with umbilical chords. The fun had begun! I moved easily up the neve and ice slopes with only a 25 lb pack to weight me. By 9 am I had made it up 4,000 ft to the waist of an hourglass between the two dablam features high on the face. I took one half liter of water and placed an ice screw to hold my pack. I gambled that I would not need the contents of my pack or the rope to summit and return to this spot at 20,500 ft. The winds had subsided tremendously since the 9th and the weather seemed optimal.

  David and Joe had taken the right hand line and camped the first night on top of the dablam below the summit. I decided to take the right hand line for the final 1800 ft. I discovered conditions that were ideal for soloing. The ice was hard and the snow was stable. I continued up counting my steps to measure my pace. One snow fluting after another ran together toward the summit that I could not yet see. I was able to guestimate my altitude by looking over my shoulder at Pangbuk Ri. I was now above the 22,000 ft summit of Pangbuk Ri and could look across at the ridge seperating Jobo Rinjang from Lunag Ri. The mountain swept up from the lower snow fields at an ever increasing angle. The final runnels were over 75 degrees and blue ice in the center. Elated, I saw above me nothing but blue sky. I was near the summit. The summit that Joe and David had spent the night on had split in two as the southern side was an overhanging cornice. Unfortunately, the higher side was the southern half and I climbed gingerly onto it fearing that I might be the straw that sends it down. I arrived at the summit at 12 noon exactly. 7 hours and 50 minutes from ABC at 16,500 ft up to 22, 230 ft. 5700 ft in total. What an awesome view! I spent 15 minutes on top soaking up the sights of Cho Oyu, Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Makalu, Pumori, Baruntse and hundreds of other amazing peaks.


expid: JOBO12302
peakid: JOBO
year: 2012
route1: SE Spur
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Xavier Carrard
sponsor: Swiss Mt. Jobo Rinjang Expedition 2012
countries: France
bcdate: 2012-10-19
termnote: Abandoned due to dry snow pack and difficult conditions on the route
othersmts: Climbed Sengjya Nord (5797m)
campsites: BC(19/10,5200m),xxx
agency: Expedition Himalaya
routememo:
  Stephane Schaffter (from his web site):

  Our new attempt to complete the ascension of the south-eastern spur of this magnificent Nangpa La Valley pyramid was confronted with extremely dry conditions, the result of a Nepalese summer devoid of monsoon.

  I was personally forced to abandon once we'd reached base camp, my exercise-induced asthma prompted chronic bronchitis with the cold air, so I had to resign myself to leaving my five companion-guides on site.

  Motivated and inspired after having discovered a new, elegant traverse across the North Face of Jobo LeCoultre which was opened in 2009, Xavier, Mathieu, Philippe, Jerome and Pierre reached the central bastion under the summit chute before being forced to retreat. The conditions of the snow pack that was lacking in consistency created a highly-avalanche and dangerous obstacle.

  With energy at a peak and constantly on the outlook for a virgin traverse to conquer, it was finally on the Sengjya Nord 5797m that their determination was
  rewarded. A lightning ascent that reflected their enthusiasm. This exquisitely perfect traverse clearly offset the aborted attempt on Jobo Ringjang that has been taunting me since 2008.


expid: PUTH12305
peakid: PUTH
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: UK
leaders: Simon Lowe
sponsor: Jagged Globe Putha Hiunchuli Expedition 2012
termnote: Abandoned at 5480m due to cold temperatures
campsites: BC(4920m),C1(5480m),xxx
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  Simon arrived in base camp fairly late in the season, so with temperatures as low as -25C at C1, he, Thundu and Chongba decided it was far too cold to go any higher. 


expid: AMAD13101
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Andorra
leaders: Oriol Ribas
sponsor: Andorra Ama Dablam 2013
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2013-04-28
smtdate: 2013-05-15
termdate: 2013-05-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(28/04,4600m),C1(06/05,5700m),C2(15-16/05,6000m),xxx
accidents: Olive Carreras evacuated with pulmonary and cerebral edema
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Olive Carreras got the beginning of pulmonary edema (bad cough), then cerebral edema, and was evacuated by helicopter from Pangboche on 1 May.

  Ribas didn't want to climb solo after departure of Carreras, so he teamed up with the Italians, Luca and Gian Francesco. They made their attempt and went back to BC all together from C2 on the 16th of May.


expid: AMAD13102
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Sergiy Sukhyna
sponsor: Kharkov Club Expedition
countries: Russia
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2013-04-12
smtdate: 2013-04-14
termdate: 2013-04-16
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to difficult conditions of the route
campsites: BC(12/04,4600m),C1(13/04,5600m),xxx(14-16/04,6000m)
agency: Marvel Treks
routememo:
  On 13th of April, all 7 team members slept in C1.

  On 14th of April, Sukhyna and Sydorenko climbed almost to C2 with light bags to check the quality of the route and came back to C1. (Same day Mamin had some sort of throat infection and stayed at C1 for rest with the remnant of the team.)

  On 15th of April, the same pair started with heavy bags (12.5 kgs) to put in C2.  During the night the snow and ground became slippery, difficult to progress. After one hour, Dis and Prokhorov started as well with some heavy bags for C2. At 5800m both decided to turn back because of the difficult ground; as Sukhyna and Sydorenko heard by radio with C1 that their teammates decided to turn back, they knew they had no chance to continue up. Then came back to C1 as well (high point at 6000m that day).

  On 16th of April the team decided the day before to stop the expedition and begun to climb down, Mamin persuaded Sukhyna and Sydorenko to climb up again "to see the route." After 3 to 4 hours of climbing, the trio went up to 6000m and turned back for C1, packed everything there and left directly for base camp, then Ama Dablam Garden Lodge, 3800m.


expid: AMAD13103
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Vlodimir Zadokhin
sponsor: Russian Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2013-04-17
smtdate: 2013-05-01
termdate: 2013-05-03
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to lack of ropes
campsites: BC(17/04,4500m),ABC(19/04,5200m),C1(23/04,5600m),xxx(01/05,5800m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  After seven days snowfall the team went up to 5800m on 1 May, but no ropes above C2 were detected and the team did not take enough ropes and other equipment to go to summit. They were stuck at Lukla for 6 days due to unavailability of flights.


expid: AMAD13104
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Sweden
leaders: Fredrik Sigekrans
sponsor: Swedish Ama Dablam Expedition 2013
approach: Directly from Lukla to BC
bcdate: 2013-04-26
smtdate: 2013-05-06
termdate: 2013-05-08
termnote: Abandoned at 5935m due to no fixed ropes above C2
campsites: BC(26/04,4500m),C1(30/04,5780m),C2(06/05,5935m),xxx(06/05,5935m)
agency: Mega Adventures (Snowy Horizon pmt)
routememo:
  Sigekrans reached C1 and slept there on 29 April. But he developed a "terrible headache," which he attributed to altitude sickness. On the 30th he descended to BC, and on 1 May he went to Pangboche village, where he stayed two nights and regained his health.

  He went back to his BC on 3 May and moved to C1 on the 5th. But no ropes had been fixed above C2, no one had brought rope to fix, and according to his Sherpa, Pasang, there was not enough Sherpa manpower present to fix it.

  Sigekrans stayed at the site for his C2 only about an hour and half; there was no point in his staying longer after he learned about the non-existence of the ropes.  He abandoned his climbing effort and left BC on the 8th.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Sherpa, 29/10/84 (13/7/2041), Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha


expid: AMAD13105
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Sergei Bershov
sponsor: Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Russia
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2013-05-06
smtdate: 2013-05-10
termdate: 2013-05-11
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to lack of time
othersmts: Summited Island Peak
campsites: BC(06/05,4500m),C1(07/05,5700m),C2(08/05,5800m),xxx(10/05,6200m)
agency: Marvel Treks
routememo:
  The team did not have enough time to the top. In spring need more time compared to autumn (more snow).

  Leonid and Dmitri reached high point on 10 May then came back to C1. Badaui went 3 times to C3 for acclimatization (didn't sleep in C2) on the 8th, 9th and 10th).

  Rest of the 8-person team reached C2 on the 8th of May and went back same day for 3 nights to C1.

  The entire team left BC on the 11 May.


expid: AMAD13106
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Stephan Rink
approach: Lukla->Namche->Tengboche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2013-04-18
smtdate: 2013-04-27
termdate: 2013-04-30
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to lack of fixed ropes
campsites: BC(18/04,4400m),C1(25/04,5600m),C2(27/04,5900m),xxx(27/04,5900m)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  From the email of Rink: "running out of fix ropes, other teams didn't bring fixed ropes as discussed beforehand by agencies, no manpower to fix ropes as no other team was willing or able to help fixing lines, running out of time."

  Sherpa:
    Nawang Lhakpa Sherpa, (3/10/2028) 17/1/1972, Chaurikharka-3


expid: ANID13101
peakid: ANID
year: 2013
route1: E Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Rob Frost
sponsor: New Zealand Anidesh Chuli Expedition 2013
countries: USA
approach: Bus to Taplejung->trekked to Ghunsa south of Ramtang Valley
bcdate: 2013-04-29
smtdate: 2013-05-04
termdate: 2013-05-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to accident
campsites: TBC(20/04,4600m),TABC(25/04,5100m),BC(29/04,4800m),C1(27/04,5500m),C2(02/05,6017m),xxx(04/05,6500m)
agency: Dream Himalaya Adventures
routememo:
  BC  north of Ramtang Valley
  ABC temp in Ramtang Valley
  C1  Ramtang icefall on SW side
  High point at 6500m just below crest of East Ridge.

  4 May 2:30 pm Scheele evacuated with Dare, who he was climbing with; his memory is still spotty.

  BC  - 4800m
  ABC - 5100m
  C1  - 5500m
  C2  - 6400m

  4 May Scheele and Dare on mountain when accident occurred; rescued by Simone Moro.


  Rob Frost report:

  Members:

  Decided to climb without oxygen nor Sherpas, climbing by pairs as follows : 
    Rob Frost and Andrei Dusschoten
    Ben Dare and Scott Scheele

  Found in Dingle's book "Wall of shadows" pictures from White Wave, which gave them lust to attempt it.

  Events:

  "The original plan was that we had porters to Ghunsa, then yaks to BC; however the yaks reached the mouth of the Ramtang glacier, but couldn't go any further. So we needed to try get porters again, but they had all returned to Ghunsa where there was a festival on!" Thus the team lost nearly one week carrying loads from the temporary BC site at the junction of Ramtang and Kangchenjunga glaciers (at around 4500m) to a subsidiary BC at 4800m, then to an ABC at 5100m at the foot of the main Ramtang upper icefall.

  On the 2nd May, the 4 members went to C2 at 6000m, then on the 4th (after waiting a day for avalanche conditions to settle) Rob and Andrei went back to BC to rest while Ben and Scott started out on the team's first summit attempt.

  On the morning of 4 May Ben Dare and Scott Scheele started from C2 (6000m) enroute to C3 (theoretically located on the ridge around 6500m). On the last pitch below the ridge, just below 6500m, Scott Scheele took a lead fall of approximately 80 to 90 meters (the pair was climbing in double ropes). Scotts fall created a small of spindrift avalanche that struck Ben Dare at the belay; however is unlikely that the avalanche was the cause of the fall and was more likely triggered when Scott fell as he was transitioning from steep ice to snow at the crest of the ridge at the time of the fall.

  The fall occurred at approximately 3:30 pm, in deteriorating conditions with heavy cloud and snow blowing in at around 1:30 pm, which limited visibility at the time of the accident to between 20-30m - with occasional brief longer clearances.

  During the fall Scott sustained head injuries, thankfully reduced by his now broken helmet, but apart from this, he was largely unscathed and only suffered minor cuts and bruising. Immediately after the fall he was unconscious for nearly 5 minutes, and was hanging upside down from the ropes before slowly regaining consciousness. During this time Ben re-rigged the ropes and abseiled down to Scott before beginning to lower him back down the to a bivy site at around 6450m, which they reached at 6:30-7:00 pm, and spent the night in their small tent.

  He was after semiconscious, very confused, could not remember anything...and dillusional, he even wanted to climb back up! Ben: "He was just lucky to have not hit something. I had to carry his bag and drag him down through the snow back to our camp at 6000m. On the steeper ground I couldn't trust him to abseil so had to lower him all the way down."

  When we finally reached our 6000m camp, at 2:30 pm on the 5th, I tried calling the others (Rob and Andrei) at BC on the radio. However due to the poor connection I could not only relay that we were at camp 6000m and could not get information regarding the accident through to them. Following this I then activated our emergency locator beacon and tried unsuccessfully to use the radio again. Once the beacon had been activated emergency services in New Zealand (where the beacon was registered) were notified and subsequently Rob and Andrei received a call on our satellite phone to inform them of this. This was the first they knew that something had gone wrong and, after previously being informed that we were back at camp 6000m, they set out from BC that afternoon and climbng through the night they reached the camp at 3:00 am on the morning of the 6th. When they arrived with the satellite phone were we able to establish a line of communication and called for a helicopter rescue to try get Scott off the mountain. They at arrived at 10:30 am that morning and Scott, accompanied by Ben, was flown back to Kathmandu. Arriving 45 hours after the accident thanks to the great efforts of the crew from Fishtail Air.

  Rob Frost and Andrei Dusschoten will leave BC on the 19th May. Their last days will be occupied with cleaning the mountain's camps and fixed rope.

  The route:

  From ABC (5100m) to C1 (5500m), the route went up through the icefall. Starting centrally and then tending right towards the rock buttress below the North Ridge. Typically on low-angled snow and ice with some short steep sections, where one 30 meter section of rope was fixed at about 5400m.

  From C1 to C2, the team avoided the broken ground at edge of the glacier by climbing up through the rock buttress (mainly still on snow), reaching a flat snow arete coming from the neve below the North Ridge of Anidesh Chuli. They then took a course ESE across the most flat neve, below the NE Face, to a campsite at 6000m below the East Ridge. This section of the route while being relatively straightforward was threatened by a nearly continuous serac barrier that stretches across the center of the NE Face. C2 was settled on a small rib lying just NNE from the col at 6350m on the East Ridge and in a gap with the main serac barrier. And while it was the safest place to establish a camp in the area, it was still threatened from the slopes above and had significantly less protection than C1.

  From C2 to the ridge, at first duo of Ben and Scott had to climb 200m of 30 to 40-degree snow slopes, then tried to link snowy ramps separated by ice cliffs, most of the time in 60-degree steep slopes up to 80-degree short sections, "not steep, but tiring."

  Above their high point, according to Ben Dare:

  The East Ridge definitely the easiest way to reach summit. Some rocky steps at the end of the ridge. This year however, the summit was cut off by an ice cliff (15 to 20 meters high) overhanging across the top of the ridge and the NE Face. Coming from the East Ridge, he believes that they would have tried to overcome the difficulty, whether on the right by traversing under the ice cliff, across the NE Face, to the North Ridge, or on the left via the steeper South Face.

  It seems likely that conditions could potentially allow for an easy way in some years, and a quite difficult one during others! All depending on condition of the ice cliffs. "All the ice we encountered was very old and brittle, not soft new alpine ice, dinner plating on nearly every swing and taking 3-4 swings to get a good stick. It was even difficult to get screws to bite at times because it was so hard!"

  North Ridge seemed very broken with lots of ice cliffs and the problem of a very steep climb to reach the main col at the begining of the proper N Ridge. However, as with the E Ridge, depending on the conditions, this route may be faster than the E Ridge. This year however, the overhanging summit mushroom cliffs appeared to be up to 40-50 meters high!

  Recommandations / Kangbachen normal route :

  Route 56 of Jan Kielkowski originally taken by the Polish (1974) is much safer nowadays than 57 (Yugoslavians in 1965), which is in very broken now! 

  Route 52 of Wedge Peak first ascent seems very broken nowadays, possibly a better line in the center (direct line), same on Ramtang (6601m), where nothing done on SW face yet allowing a very nice solution trough a narrow couloir on the right side of the face.


expid: BARU13101
peakid: BARU
year: 2013
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Olaf Rieck
sponsor: Leipziger Baruntse Expedition
approach: Mera La->Hunku Glacier
bcdate: 2013-04-23
smtdate: 2013-05-03
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2013-05-08
othersmts: Summited Mera Peak
campsites: BC(23/04,5450m),ABC(24/04,5950m),C1(25/04,6150m),C2(01/05,6450m),Smt(03/05)
agency: Multi Adventure
routememo:
  On 1 May all 4 members slept at C2 except Thomas who went back to the base camp.

  On 2 May first attempt by Christoph and Olaf, but not possible, as they lost time fixing rope on new points. Janina stayed with them again that night.

  On 3 May Christoph and Olaf started at 6:30 am, reached summit at 12 pm and were back at C2 at 3 pm. Meanwhile, Janina was back the same day at the base camp at 3 pm. Christoph and Olaf packed some of their gear at C2 and descended to C1 for sleeping (arrival at 4 pm). 

  On 4 May from C1, Christoph and Olaf went back to C2 to pack all their equipment, then did the same at C1 and were back to the BC at 5 pm, quite tired.


expid: CHOY13101
peakid: CHOY
year: 2013
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Xavier Juanola
sponsor: Catalan Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Kodari->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2013-04-19
smtdate: 2013-05-05
termdate: 2013-05-07
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to route not open, no ropes above C2 and leader exhausted
campsites: CBC(19/04,4900m),IC(20/04,5300m),ABC(21/04,5700m),C1(26/04,6400m),C2(01/05,7200m),xxx(05/05,7400m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  On 5 May Juanola and Roshan tried to go to C3, but had to turn around from 7400m because there was no fixed line. Also Juanola was exhausted.


expid: CHOY13103
peakid: CHOY
year: 2013
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Julio Coloma
sponsor: A Spaniard to Cho Oyu
approach: Kodari->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2013-04-18
smtdate: 2013-05-06
termdate: 2013-05-10
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to lack of fixed ropes and poor route condition
campsites: BC(18/04,4800m),ABC(21/04,5600m),C1(26/04,6400m),C2(06/05,6900m),xxx(06/05,6900m)
agency: Makalu Adventure
routememo:
  Coloma decided to abandon his climb as the upper part seemed in poor condition with lots of crevasses. Besides this, Julio Coloma carried all his equipment by himself, but with no fixed ropes for the upper part, he couldn't undertake any summmit attempt.


expid: CHOY13104
peakid: CHOY
year: 2013
route1: NW side
nation: Austria
leaders: Ernst Meschik
sponsor: Austrian Expedition Cho Oyu 2013
countries: Germany
bcdate: 2013-04-26
smtdate: 2013-05-10
termdate: 2013-05-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7513m due to bad weather and lack of fixed rope
campsites: BC(26/04,4921m),ABC(29/04,5750m),C1(04/05,6417m),C2(09/05,7134m),xxx(10-11/05,7513m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  The expedition spent a week or so after arriving at ABC acclimatizing on the mountain; going up to higher altitudes, descending to rest, and going higher still and going down to rest. They established their C1 on 4 May and C2 on 9 May.

  On 10 May, Leitner and Meschik went to the site for C3 at 7513m and pitched a tent there, then returned to C2 for the night. On the 11th the two Austrians and Chuldim Sherpa went to the site to occupy C3; they rested there, but wind was too strong for them to stay; it was blowing at more than 100 km/hr that night.

  C3's site was the team's high point. They abandoned their attempt to scale Cho Oyu that same day, the 11th. Besides the fierce wind, there was some snowfall, and fog obscured the way ahead. Furthermore, the surface underfoot was hard blue ice, and no rope had been fixed above the Yellow Band. They left the mountain on 15 May.

  Sherpa:
    Chuldim Sherpa, 10/9/71, Khumjung, Cho Oyu X7

  Note: The team found a body at 6400m just below their C1, which they believed to be that of a Greek climber who, they said, died in his tent 2010 [possibly the German Henning who died in 2011] . It was not a pleasant sight: the body was now exposed and birds were picking at it.


expid: CHOY13105
peakid: CHOY
year: 2013
route1: NW side
nation: Estonia
leaders: Uko Noulik
sponsor: Uko & Anu Cho Oyu 2013
approach: Kodari->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2013-04-18
smtdate: 2013-05-13
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2013-05-15
campsites: BC(18/04,4850m),ABC(21/04,5700m),C1(26/04,6400m),C2(04/05,7200m),C3(12/05,7500m),Smt(13/05)
accidents: Anu had frostbite (all fingers first digits)
achievment: 1st Estonian female ascent of Cho Oyu?
agency: Makalu Adventure
routememo:
  Uko and Anu intended to climb without Sherpas or fixed ropes to the summit. The conditions on the mountain this season being quite difficult with mainly ice and stones and with most of time bad weather and strong winds, they eventually had to hire a local guide. In fact, no so many teams being involved on the mountain (5 groups only), and no Sherpas from any teams (e.g., Snowy Horizon, with 3 Sherpas for 11 members) accepting to equip the mountain above C2 for any money amount. When Xavier Juanola left the mountain, Uko and Anu managed to hire his Sherpa, Dipen Roshan Bhattarai (with Monterosa Treks), who was basically the only one who accepted to get higher than C2 for a summit push (moreover, he knew already the route for the summit that he climbed in 2009 and 2011).

  Schedule:

  26/4: first night at C1
  27/4 to 29/5: 3 stormy nights at an intermediate camp at 6800m then back to ABC.

  09/5: the trio of Anu, Uko and Dipen slept at C1.

  10/5: same for C2.

  11/5: first night at C3. This day, Dipen fixed 600m on the route from C2 to C3.

  12/5: the trio started late in the evening at 11 pm for the summit. Unfortunately, Anu couldn't find her inner gloves, so she had to cimb only with her down external gloves what later provoked her frostbites (as she had to take them off several times to put her jumar on the remaining fixed ropes for abseiling). Morever, just one hour after departure, Uko and Anu's only oxygen bottles (each had one) didn't work anymore!. The team climbed all way up with 100 km/h winds, no sun and eventually reached the summit at 10 am in the clouds (picture of the summit day evocative, with not more than 1 meter visibility; same for the one taken from ABC by Ilya Levchenko).

  On the way down, in a couloir, the team used old fixed ropes. Even if he tried each of these before abseiling. Uko fell one time from 5m as the rope broke whilst descending (precisely on the jumar's location), receptioning himself with his crampons on stones. Fortunately he had nothing broken. The team came back to C3 at 3 pm where there slept for the third time. The day after they were back to the ABC, where Austrians gave care to Anu's frostbitten hands (probably saving her some of it). According to the Austrians, the wind speed on their summit day was already 100 km only at C3.

  Uko would be the first Estonian female climber to reach an 8000er summit.

  Hired:
    Roshan (Dipen) Bhattarai, Hangdewa-6, Taplejung, 16/02/85
      (he climbed without oxygen)


  Telephone conversation with Roshan (Dipen) Bhattarai - 26 June 2013
    (about his Cho Oyu Climb with Estonians)

  According to Dipen Bhattarai from C2 they went to C3. In C3 weather was very bad, so Austrians returned on 11th. So he joined the Estonians. On 12th he reached C3 with the couple. On 12 pm they started from C3 and reached summit on 13th at 10 am. They stayed in summit for 15 minutes.

  They reached C3 at 5:30 pm. Dipen Bhattarai said he had pics of summit but since the visibility was very bad it was not clear. He was given email ID to send the summit pictures which he had promised, but he did not send and stopped answering phone calls too.


  Email from Jane Riga - 3 June 2013

  I was talking  with our Sherpas whose names are Ngima Sherpa and Lakpa Tendu Sherpa, they did summit Cho Oyu on 22nd May 2013 with John and rest of the group.

  Here are the words what they said.

  Ngima Sherpa: "I am not sure whether they summited or not. When they claim for summit the condition so so bad."

  Lakpa Tendu Sherpa: "When I connect with Mr. Diding Bhattarai, climbing Sherpa of Estonian climber, Mr. Bhattarai told me that they returned from 8000m because of bad condition and female climber got frostbite. They stay 5-6 days in C3."


  Email from Anu Noulik to Miss Hawley - 28 July 2013

  We knew our Sherpa had been on the summit twice before. And we strongly believe that it was so because he knew the way even in the dark. And he knew where the right place was to rise on the summit plateau. And there were several old fixed ropes like I said before.

  Yes of course could not take photos at the summit because of the very poor visibility. Yes we have one photo of the summit. Our camera was frozen and our Sherpa couldn't take our picture, I also tried, but couldn't. I already gave up trying when the camera took a crooked picture of my husband - the quality was poor. The last slope before the summit plateau was really steep and rocky, the plateau wasn't so steep and it was much easier to go there, no more ropes, also the snow wasn't deep only the rising wind was against and it started snowing.

  We only wanted to try the oxygen for future but there was no actual need for it (our acclimatization was excellent). I don't know how long my only bottle lasted but my mask was frozen soon and I gave up. When we climbed up the culuar [sic] and went to the final slopes we put the masks in our backpacks. We never planned to use oxygen but decided to see how it goes. I wore big warm gloves but there were no inner gloves. My frostbite was probably not caused by the gloves, but my body just gave up in such hard conditions.

  I went in the hopes of fulfilling my dream and in the end it didn't turn out as I had thought. I wanted to go up for the view, I wanted to see Everest, but we didn't see it. I was very disappointed. Thinking back I regret going to the top after it was clear that the weather was getting worse, but at the end it was the only accomplishment which we succeeded in. Our planning and training before the trip paid off because we did get to the top.


  Email from Jane Riga - 26 June 2013

  At 3 pm their Sherpa returned to ABC (he isn't Sherpas nationality by the way). He was very tired and I asked him about results of summit bid. He answered something like "we climb yesterday...very bad weather cold and then he said "only 8000." I interpret it like highest altitude during their attempt. After that he drank some juice and went to sleep.

  At 9 pm (2 hours after sunset) I was sleeping but woke up due to voices outside the tent, I turned on my headlamp, left my tent and saw Anu & Uko. Their faces was purple after sunburns and when I saw ten black fingers of Anu. So I asked Austrian group to provide medical help and assisted them a little. It was clear that there is a 99 percent probability that some fingers will be amputated. So it was not a right moment to ask (losers) I hear that your summit bid failed.

  May 15

  Early in the morning (5-6am) I was surprised when Uko took sheet of paper and ask Sherpa to write down some information, like "Uko Noulik summit time 10:00 (I don't remember exact phrase and time). I sat there quiet and think that probably I don't understand something in Sherpa story. Uko and Anu was tired and can't concentrate to pack their things and leave ABC. I just focused them on fast leaving ABC to reach hospital as quickly as possible and don't force them to long discussions. I said "Ok" just finish it and we must start our long way to our 4X4 car."

  Some hours later, in the car, I asked them - why Sherpa said about 8000 but u said about summit? And they answered that they were on summit. Taking into consideration fact about fingers amputated perspective I don't force question "are u really was on summit?"

  On May 10 Sherpa fixed ropes above C2 and returned to C2 to sleep in big tent.

  On May 11 he climbed to C3 with Estonians and they sleep in a small 2-person tent together.

  May 12 weather was bad and Sherpa returned to C2 to have more confortable condition in a big tent.

  May 13: 2 hours before midnight Sherpa woke up and climbed to C3, woke up Uko and Anu and at midnight they start to climb. Late evening they returned back. I'm not sure but probably Sherpa returned to C2.

  May 14 - all of them returned to ABC.


  Email from Ilya Levchenko to Jane Riga - 24 June 2013

  When asked whether Levchenko knew Estonian couple from before and has gone to Cho Oyu last April/May she said she has never met them before.

  Cons:

  Comparing to other climbers they were very slow. Usually they need 1.5X...2X more time to climb from one camp to another.

  Their guide after returning to ABC told something (in very unclear English) what I interpret like "we reach only 8000m and then return."

  Weather on that day was extremely cold and windy. The summit was covered by cloud what means 10-20 meters of visibility.

  Some climbers suggests that there are lots of prayer flags on the summit. Estonian couple didn't tell about them.

  Pros:

  They use oxygen bottles, one person, what can boost them until altitude of 8000m.

  Their guide is adequate man and he sign paper with fact of successful summiting without any questions. I was in the dining tent at this moment.

  I'm sure that Uko and Anu would not lie about summiting fact. At least, they believe that they were there (even if they were not).

  To summarize it all, I think that the "Real Truth" in that situation has very virtual nature. It seems like nobody, who had climbed Cho Oyu on May 13, knows 100 percent truth.

  Uko and Anu were extremely tired, Anu got frostbites of all her fingers, they can't see nothing and they don't use GPS. They just walk somewhere until the moment when their guide said them something like "Ok it's time for photo and we can go back."

  Their guide seems to be the most informed person. But there are lot of contradictions in his story. One example of this - he told that they turn back at 15:00 not 10:00. And it was hard to understand his English to clarify important details.

  So I think - maybe they were there, maybe not." Just imagine a situation - if they would understand (some months later) that they made mistake and in fact don't reach the summit ...it would be a big challenge for them to live with fact that their names in Cho Oyu list is just a lie. Day by day, year by year. Indeed, I vote for decision to write them to summiting list.

  P.S. In addition, I was a little bit wondered - how can help in this question strange interviewing of 10...100 climbers who sat in Base Camp or even was very far from Cho Oyu? To say more, I think that I was source of at least 70 percent of opinions of those people. I like to talk with members of other expedition, and discuss about my dialectical point of view on Estonian mystery with all expeditions in ABC and with many climbers in Kathmandu and Pokhara. So, an opinion of that big group is equal to opinion of just one person. As I said before there are only 3 persons (Anu, Uko, Nepali guide) who was there and can think about interpretation of facts. All other opinions is the same like an opinion of my mom.


  Email from Rodolphe Popier to Miss Hawley - 21 June 2013

  In my rememberings of their interview day, Uko and Anu didn't really know if they really were on top, but relied mostly on the expertise of Roshan (Dipen) Bhattarai, who went 2 times there before (as they told me: I didn't know Roshan never went on summit and didn't check it unfortunately. I remember however that Roshan told Jeevan a few days later that he went on top).

  So I just trust them, as they seemed honest. In fact after the question of their presumed summit, they just content to tell me: "we don't know but we are, happy that Anu is the first Estonian woman to reach 8000m or maybe to reach summit of an 8000er peak." Something like this. So I just marked summit for them, even if with no material proof. 


  Email from Stephan Andres to Miss Hawley - 29 Aug 2013

  I did not know that Roshan Bhattarai is not a Buddhist because in the mountains experience, knowledge and human qualities are more important than religion. Roshan went with us as "climbing Sherpa" and his task, together with 2 climbing Sherpas, as to fix the high camps and the transport of everything what is needed there and also supporting the expedition members during climbing. Roshan was 2 or 3 times in Camp 2 and also on the day, when were in Camp 2. As far as I know he did not climb higher than C2 in this expedition. He clearly showed his qualities not only as a very good climber, but also a gentle and helpful guy and a very nice human being. He definitely was a very valuable member of the whole team.


  Email from Leitner Christian to Miss Hawley - 14 June 2013

  Concerning Uko and Anu Noulik I can only tell that we met them for the first time in C2. In the morning of May 11 they went from Camp 2 to Camp 3, together with the Sherpa. They started without oxygen about 2 hours before Engelbert Aspeck, Ernst Meschik and me (Leitner Christian) but we passed them I think 3 hours later, about 100m below Camp 3.

  Dr. Aspect from our group turned around because of the bad weather, Meschik Ernst and me reached Camp 3. The Sherpa of the Estonian group has been already in C3, waiting for Anu and Uko Noulik. The weather was now that bad (stormy, snowy and foggy) that after a short break at Camp 3, Meschik Ernst and me decided to go down to C2 and spent the night there. When we dismount our tent, Anu and Uko reached their tent in Camp 3. They took about 6 hours from C2 to C3.

  The night from May 11 to May 12th was very stormy. So it was impossible for starting to the top. The next morning the weather was getting better slowly but still strong wind on the top. Our group decided to go down to ABC. What we heard is, that Anu and Uko started in the following night to the top. Nobody in ABC had contact with Anu, Uko and his Sherpa. Nobody knows what they are going to do! Then we heard nothing from them till...

  On May 14th at about 9 pm, a Russian guy from their group came to our tents in ABC and asked Dr. Aspeck, if he could hold 2 Estonians people. One with 10 frozen fingers and the other with a frozen nose. Dr. Aspeck, our Sherpa Chuldim, Meschik Ernst and me went went to the group. All 3 (Anu, Uko and Sherpa) have been in ABC. Anu (the wife) has to 10 black frozen fingers. We treated her medically, cut the wedding ring from her finger and gave her an infusion. She and the Sherpa told us, that they did not reach the summit!! They reached about 8000m. For the 400m from C3 to the altitude of 8000m they took 13 hours, so the Sherpa told us!! They also went with oxygen and the problems with their fingers are due to the reason, that Anu lost one of their gloves.

  For the next (15th May) the Sherpas organized a transport from middle camp to the hospital of Kathmandu.

  That is what we all know from the Estonian couple. We are all very astonished because for all people in ABC it was clear that they did not reach the summit.


  Email from Deha Shrestha (Everest Parivar) to Jane Riga - 3 June 2013

  I was talking to our Sherpas whose names are Ngima Sherpa and Lakpa Tendu Sherpa, they did summit Cho Oyu on 22nd May 2013 with John and rest of our group.

  Here are the words they said.

  Ngima Sherpa: "I am not sure whether they summited or not. When they claim for summit the condition was so bad."

  Lakpa Tendu Sherpa: "When I connect with Mr. Diding Bhattarai, climbing Sherpa of Estonian climbers, Mr. Bhattarai told me that they returned from 8000m because of bad condition and female climber got frostbite. They stayed 5-6 days in C3."


  Email from Ilya Levchenko to Jane Riga - 24 June 2013

  April 25 - Estonians start from ABC to C1, but made mid-camp at 6000m
  April 26 - My way ABC-Camp 1 had taken less than 6 hours, I met Uko and Anu at
             6000m, they reached C1 nearly 1 hour after me.
  April 30 - My time ABC-Camp 1 = 3:30, Uko and Anu = 7:40
  May 1    - My time C1-C2 = 8 hr, Uko and Anu made mid-camp on 6800m.
  May 9    - My time ABC-C1 = 3:50, Uko and Anu arrived 2-3 hours later.
  May 10   - My time C1-C2 = 6:30, Uko and Anu arrived 2-4 hours later.


  Email from Ilya Levchenko to Jane Riga - 24 June 2013

  Initially, they had 2 bottles of oxygen for the emergency case. After Tony's (one of our expedition guy from UK) decision to finish his attempt on Cho Oyu they bought his bottle. Thus, they had 3 full bottles total in Camp 3. And they didn't use it on C2 and below.

  They told that the guide suggested them to use oxygen from the start from C3. The reason was obvious - they climb very slow. After that as I understand and remember Uko's mask probably was broken. And something was not good with Anu's mask too (don't remember exactly). On 8000m they leave empty bottles and continue to climb without oxygen. As they reported "it was even easy without uncomfortable mask on face."

  Our expedition members, 7 climbers, guide, cook and helper from Tingri. We climb by our own plans but sometimes we grouped together for a day or two. You can see my altitude and oxygenation graph. During my final attempt I had only 50 percent oxygen graph in C2. That was the reason to stop my attempt.

  Only 3 persons went to the summit attempt. All other people did not go higher than Camp 3. They rehired guide from other member of our expedition who decided to finish his attempt.


expid: CHOY13106
peakid: CHOY
year: 2013
route1: NW side
nation: Russia
leaders: Ilya Levchenko
sponsor: Ilya Cho Oyu 2013
approach: Kodari->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2013-04-18
smtdate: 2013-05-01
termdate: 2013-05-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to lack of strength
campsites: BC(18/04,4850m),ABC(21/04,5700m),C1(26/04,6400m),C2(01/05,7200m),xxx(01/05,7200m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Ilya went twice for acclimatization at C2 where he spent 3 nights (1st-2nd and 10th of May).

  The second time feeling not fit enough for a summit attempt (tired with not good recovery at ABC which was too high) with a half-empty bottle of oxygen and difficult weather conditions (after storms) and no fixed ropes from C2, he decided to abandon his expedition that same day (10th of May). On the 11th of May he was back to ABC.


expid: DHA113101
peakid: DHA1
year: 2013
route1: NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Armaud Pasquer
approach: Beni->Darban->Italian BC
bcdate: 2013-04-12
smtdate: 2013-04-22
termdate: 2013-05-08
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to bad weather (mainly high wind)
campsites: BC(12/04,4600m),C1(15/04,5700m),C2(22/04,6500,6700m),xxx(22/04,6700m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  The team had C2 in two different altitudes. Pasquer was climbing with a Polish climber and when they reached at 6700m weather got bad, so they put up the camp there. David and Heymes were climbing together and when weather became bad they were at 6500m, so they put their C2 there.

  Labatut left expedition on 14 April by helicopter due to his backache. He climbed up to 5100m. He left Kathmandu on 17 April.


expid: EVER13108
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Farid Razavi-Mehr
sponsor: Humbleness Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2013-04-12
smtdate: 2013-04-15
termdate: 2013-04-28
termnote: Abandoned at 5500m due to altitude sickness and lack of experience
campsites: BC(12/04,5300m),xxx(15/04,5500m)
agency: Makalu Adventure (Snowy Horizon pmt)
routememo:
  Razavi-Mehr intended to climb solo for his first attempt on the mountain. Without any previous mountaineering experience and an obvious lack of discernment, his attempts never reached further than the beginning of the icefall. Worse on the 27th of April, Razavi-Mehr believed to contract minor signs of altitude sickness; that evening late he asked for an helicopter rescue, which he obtained the day after.

  During his interview, Razavi-Mehr argued he would only answer the question if success. He added that his reputatiaon didn't allow him answer in the opposite case. Razavi-Mehr should be back next year.


expid: EVER13104
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Mexico
leaders: David Liano
sponsor: Double Summit to Everest (S & N)
approach: Kodari->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2013-05-13
smtdate: 2013-05-19
smttime: 0436
termdate: 2013-05-21
othersmts: Summited Everest south side (EVER-131-05)
campsites: BC(13/05,5100m),ABC(14/05,6492m),C1(15/05,7000m),C2(17/05,7700m),C3(18/05,8300m),Smt(19/05)
achievment: 1st person to climb Everest from two different sides in one season
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Liano's double summit bid started with Mingma [Asian Trekking sirdar] from C3 at 11 pm (NST) on 18 May. Perfect conditions; no wind and warm. Liano and Mingma Dorje got to the top at 4:30 am of 19 May and stayed on summit for 25 minutes. He met Allan [Johnson] from Canada (Asian Trekking) on the summit who came from south side. Liano and Mingma Dorje returned C3 at 7:30 am then continued descending to ABC where they arrived at 3 pm. Next day 20 May went down to CBC. Other summiters on that day were from the first team of Alex Abramov and 4 other climbers.

  Sherpa:
    Mingma (Dorje), 1/10/77, Thamo, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X5, Manaslu X1


expid: EVER13115
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Bill Crouse
sponsor: USA-India Everest 2013
countries: India
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2013-04-22
smtdate: 2013-05-19
smttime: 0440
termdate: 2013-05-22
campsites: BC(22/04,5350m),C1(26/04,6000m),C2(28/04,6400m),C3(17/05,7300m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Team left South Col at 8 pm. Calm day. They were one of the first teams and it was busy when they came down. They stayed at the South Col, where they arrived at 10 am. On 20 May to C2, 21 May to BC.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Dawa, Pangboche, 18/1/77
    Chewang Dorje, Pangboche, 17/4/1981
    Kalzang Dorje, Pangboche, 23/7/1981


