# exped

expid: ANN260101
peakid: ANN2
year: 1960
route1: NW Ridge-W Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: J. O. M. Roberts
ascent1: 1st
countries: India, Nepal
approach: Marshyangdi->Hongde->Sabje Khola
bcdate: 1960-03-15
smtdate: 1960-05-17
smttime: 1530
othersmts: Climbed Annapurna IV (ANN4-601-01)
campsites:
  BC(15/03,3350m),ABC(4575m),C1(5365m),C2(5800m),C3(26/04,6400m),C4(30/04,6900m),C5(15/05,7270m),C6(16/05,7200m),Smt(17/05)


expid: ANN269301
peakid: ANN2
year: 1969
route1: NW Ridge-W Ridge
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Ales Kunaver
sponsor: Mountaineering Club of Slovenia
ascent1: 2nd
approach: Marshyangdi->Hongde->Sabje Khola
bcdate: 1969-09-25
smtdate: 1969-10-22
smttime: 1800
termdate: 1969-10-26
othersmts: Climbed Annapurna IV (ANN4-693-02)
accidents: Draslar frostbitten hands and feet
campsites:
  LowBC(25/09,3950m),BC(27/09,4650m),C1(27/09,5300m),C2(6000m),C3(6400m),C4,C5(7350m),C6(7250m),Smt(22/10)

routememo:
  Summited after sunset, returned to C6 at 2:30 am.


  Jerin - 7 Nov 1969

  Arrive KTM Thursday Draslar, Mlekuz and Jerin; rest tomorrow afternoom by charter. Draslar fingers OK, but one toe uncertain still.

  Started for summit 9 am. 3 pm in afternoon still very low. At 6 pm last part and descended by moonlight very bright, but very cold. Days shorter than in spring (at 5 pm getting dark).

  Were exhausted by time returned to camp, could not have come down alone.

  Expedition reached Pokhara yesterday and Jerin and liaison officer to KTM Wednesday.


  JOM Roberts - 3 Nov 1969

  West Ridge of Annapurna II: waxy ridge, series of snow towers.
  Up to summit of C4 for observation and radio contact.
  Annapurna IV just a feature south of West Ridge of Annapurna II.
  Security team = support team.
  C6 probably where West Ridge steepens to summit of Annapurna II.

  C5 = 24,000 ft 
  C6 = 23,800 ft ? or above

  Support team at Annapurna IV summited and returned down to C5 for night.

  Bonington, Richard Grant and Sherpa Ang Nima except C5 to summit and down C3 (created while they were climbing) all in daylight.


  Kunaver - 11 Sept 1969

  Approach march will be wide sweep northeast from Pokhara and north of Annapurna massif to Marshyangdi River to east of Braga and the south to ridge leading to Annapurna IV and below summit of C4 along ridge to C2.

  5 camps above base; summit attempt up to 20 Oct. Establish base 25 Sept. Need at least 3-1/2 weeks before final assault for acclimatization.

  Liaison officer D. B. Rain (2 Indian Everest and 1 Japanese expeditions); from Home Ministry.

  Botanical research as well as climbing, especially moss and other very primitive plants at high altitudes; Kazmir Draslar bird's parasite collect.

  Base very near Czechs.

  Members Kunaver, Sazonov, Stupnik and Malezic KTM to Pokhara 12 Sept; others 10th Sept except Jerin (9) who goes on 13 Sept.


expid: ANN273101
peakid: ANN2
year: 1973
route1: W Ridge-N Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Yukio Shimamura
sponsor: Sangaku Doshikai Annapurna II Expedition 1973
ascent1: 3rd
approach: Marshyangdi->Pisang->Salatang Khola
bcdate: 1973-03-16
smtdate: 1973-05-06
smttime: 2030
campsites:
  BC(16/03,3300m),C1(21/03,4200m),C2(10/04,5000m),C3(14/04,6000m),C4(23/04,6750m),C5(04/05,7300m),Smt(06/05)

routememo:
  Summit team of 3 left from C6, 2 returned from 6900m, Kondo summited and bivouaced at 7330m on descent.  MM29:13

  Sakashita - 23 May 1973

  Others arrive KTM on 25th by bus.

  Kondo, Ogawa and Sakashita tried to reach summit. Very late, so 2 members stayed in biv and only Kondo to summit about 8:30 pm.

  7300m on West Ridge.

  Left C5 6:00 am on 6 May, reached biv site at 12:00. Attack time very short, so Ogawa stayed there and other 2 went on. Leader on walkie-talkie at 5 pm told them to come back "so I came back but Mr. Kondo cannot hear so went on" (Sakashita and Kondo had separated because Sakashita had returned to biv for flag). Sakashita at 7650m at 5 pm and returned to biv. Kondo returned to biv site at 11:00 pm. Enough moonlight for Kondo to see to climb. Kondo had no flag with him. 

  Only one summit attempt via West Ridge route as planned.

  No accidents, illness, frostbite, or yeti.

  Route now very difficult but very long; ridge snow until summit ridge of mixed snow and rock on which rope not necessary.

  Shinamura and Takaku

  2 members arrive 7 March. Leave 1st March maybe, go by truck to Pokhara.

  1000m fixed rope; maybe West Ridge; now route from British but same as Shinshu University.

  Shinshu University last camp too far from summit: if possible want make last camp at foot of summit at 7300m. 


  Takaku - 18 Feb 1973

  3 more members arrive 22nd including leader.
  2 more arrive 8 March including Dr, meet at BC.
  Leave 1st March by truck with equipment to Pokhara.

  Basecamp south ex-Pisang route probably north onto ridge running east from Annapurna IV. Maybe same as Shinshu; not sure present route. If possible like to climb via North Ridge.

  Caravan reaches base camp about 10 days.
  8 Sherpas.
  5 camps above base; C5 about 7500m. 
  Summit about middle May.

  No members climbed in Nepal before but have climbed in Europe in summer and winter.

  Came last year spring on recce to look at southern approaches but concluded too dangerous because of avalanches.


expid: ANN278301
peakid: ANN2
year: 1978
route1: N Face-W Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Richard J. Isherwood
sponsor: British Annapurna II Expedition
approach: Marshyangdi->Pisang->Salatang Khola
bcdate: 1978-09-08
smtdate: 1978-10-02
termdate: 1978-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m (on A-IV) due to bad weather
campsites: BC(08/09,5190m),xxx(02/10,7000m)
routememo:
  Alpine-style ascent. Originally planned N Face attempt, switched to NW Ridge after avalanching on route.


  Collister - 15 Oct 78

  No camps above base - just took 1 tent with us - reached 23,000 feet on 30 Sept and technically quite easy - would have reached summit (via original route of North Face to West Ridge and were just below Annapurna IV on the ridge) in 3 more days. But slab avalanching created by wind off Annapurna IV forced retreat.

  No accidents or illness 
  Left BC


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 10 Oct 78

  Abandoned after reaching 23,000 ft on 2 Oct because weather very bad - left BC 5 Oct for KTM - all well.


  Isherwood - 28 Aug 78

  British Annapurna II Expedition did not mention fact it's new route in early stories.

  Route: North Face to a col and then to West Ridge - so more direct route to summit - possibly a route farther east which does not get on to West Ridge at all.

  Leave 31 Aug, confirmed 30 Aug
  No Sherpas, no oxygen
  BC at 17,000 feet above Pisang on glacier that feeds Pisang.

  Perhaps 1 fixed camp at 20,000-21,000 ft - acclimatise by carrying loads up to it for few days and from there carry light tent.

  Arrive BC about 12 Sept (not to Pokhara) summit end Sept, 1st week Oct
  public bus to Dumre on KTM-Pokhara road.


expid: ANN279301
peakid: ANN2
year: 1979
route1: N Face-W Ridge
route2: NW Ridge of A-IV
nation: UK
leaders: Paul Moores
approach: Pokhara->Marshyangdi->Pisang->Sabje Khola
smtdate: 1979-10-18
termdate: 1979-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7160m due to high winds
campsites: BC(3500m),ABC,Biv1,Biv2,Biv3,Biv4,Biv5,xxx(18/10,7160m)
routememo:
  Paul Moores - 23 Oct 79

  Alan's illness never cleared up but all got onto plateau at about 21,000 feet which meant all technical difficulties over, but summit 5 miles away. Got onto West Ridge from valley where mountian school is decided against North Face when 3 massive avalanches came down when at ABC (dust of one hit camp), so went for repeat of Chris Bonington ridge route.

  Snow every day, which meant tracks made to move loads high were filled in after night sleeping low.

  Wind prevented summit attempt; got to 22,500 feet and then Alan couldn't go down above because no fixed rope.

  Adrian and Moores tried to go to top on 18 Oct but so windy couldn't get beyond 23,500 that day and then quit.

  No accidents or frostbite.

  Burgesses still at Manang airstrip from which Moores flew today.


  Alan Burgess with Moores - 30 Aug 79

  Route from North; North Face to West Ridge of face itself too dangerous.
  3 members only and no Sherpas above BC. Strictly alpine-style with no oxygen and no build-up.

  Leave KTM 5 Sept by road to Dumre. 25 porters to BC via Marshyangdi to Pisang then south to BC at 16,000 feet at least. ABC at 18,000 feet if BC not above 16,000. Must acclimatize, will kill time getting fit looking at possible routes and walking around; then with break in weather, go for it and finish climb perhaps in 1 week.


expid: ANN280101
peakid: ANN2
year: 1980
route1: N Face-W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Ikuo Tanabe
sponsor: Japan-Kamiichi Hoskai Himalaya Expedition
approach: Marshyangdi->Pisang->Salatang Khola
bcdate: 1980-03-25
smtdate: 1980-04-24
termdate: 1980-05-01
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to fatal accident
campsites: BC(25/03,3500m),C1(27/03,4200m),C2(01/04,5200m),C3(12/04,6300m),C4(24/04,7000m),xxx(26/04,7000m)
accidents: Tanabe (leader) killed by fall
routememo:
  5 Annapurna II members - 11 May 80
  C4 24 April at 7000m 
  Accident 26 April
  C1 - 4200m - 27 March
  C2 - 5200m - 1 April
  C3 - 6300m - 12 April

  All surviviors arrive KTM yesterday.

  C4 highest point reached by 5 members and 1 Sherpa (not Hirata, who not so well); they staged 25 April in C4.

  Tanabe and Nozaki met in good condition 26 April and descended with Nishikawa that day; going to C3 and planned Doi, Inoue and 1 Sherpa next day to C5.

  Tanabe fell at 6700m on 26 April during descent; was sick and slipped; was jumaring down fixed rope, but then at traverse slipped and fell 10m on 60 degree slope and injured. 

  Nishikawa made biv for Tanabe, but now Nishikawa had bad headache. Tanabe died at 8:00 pm of exhaustion and exposure and perhaps altitude sickness.

  27 April - Nishikawa thought Tanabe sleeping, but finds early am he dead and now decides Tanabe died evening before. Nishikawa goes up to C4, those in C4 then descend. All reached BC with body 30 April.

  1 May - body cremated at BC; ash and bones placed under Cwm with stones saying Tanabe sleep here and date. Inoue takes some bone to family in Japan.

  Route was North Face. C4 little below West Ridge; C4 would have been on Ridge.


  Prachandra Shrestha, Tourism - 4 May 80
   
  Leader Inkuo Tanabe, 36, Toyama prefecture, engineer

  26 April accident after established 7000m C4; when returning for goods, leader fell and died at above same altitude as camp.

  All others well; body to be carried to BC and cremated there. Expedition abandoned.
  Message dated 1 May


  Tanabe & Co. - 6 March 80

  Japan-Kamiichi Hasokai Himalaya Expedition 1980
  Leader Ikuo Tanabe

  Route same as 1978 British and 1971 Japanese from north via Marshyangdi to Pisang, up Salatang Khola to BC at 3500m.

  5 members now in KTM, 1 more member arrives 15 March. 

  Leave KTM to Pokhara by truck 16; leave 17 March with 60 porters for 10 days march to BC.

  North Face is snow; West Ridge is rock and very narrow; ridge most difficult part with snow and icefall section on faace between 5200 and 6300m (between C2 and C3).

  2 Sherpas above BC including Ang Temba (Namche).
  No oxygen at all.
  Arrive BC 27 March, summit 25-28 April

  BC - 3500m
  C1 - 4400m
  C2 - 5200m
  C3 - 6300m
  C4 - 6900m
  C5 - 7300m on ridge


expid: ANN280102
peakid: ANN2
year: 1980
route1: SE Spur (to 6000m)
route2: S Face-W Ridge (to 7250m)
nation: Poland
leaders: Jerzy Michalski
sponsor: Lodz Himalayan Expedition
approach: Madi Khola->Hogagoth
bcdate: 1980-04-09
smtdate: 1980-05-08
termnote: Abandoned at 7250m due to injuries by avalanche
accidents: Injuries by avalanche
campsites:
  BC(09/04,3200m),ABC(11/04,4020m),C1(14/04,4800m),C2(5500m),C3(6200m),C4(07/05,7000m),xxx(08/05,7250m)

routememo:
  Warm - 28 May 80
   
  Reached col between Annapurna II and IV near C2; it is about 7000m where put C4.

  Made one camp in direction of Southeast Spur, but those in this team Michalski and Pankiewicz decided that with equipment and difficulties and weather, this route not possible, too much danger of avalanche. Returned after 2 days after having been to 6000m on spur.

  Next Kintopp, Laskowski and Michalski tried left across glacier and then up to make C3, on south side of West Ridge. This 1st attempt on West Ridge from South.

  Pankiewicz and Grochowski made ascent to Col with some difficult ice; made C4 and next day they tried to go up the ridge but returned because snow, wind and cold; went only about 200m up Ridge and then to C2.

  Kintopf and Laskowski tried to go to C4, but just about 100m from tent snow avalanche came and they fell about 400m down (about 700m distance). Both alive but Laskowski knee injured and Kintopf head cut and both mentally confused at first.

  So it was clear not possible to try for summit because had to help Kintopf and Laskowski who had to be escorted down and route very dangerous; southern approach to Annapurna II very dangerous.

  Another avalanche accident between BC and ABC when Laskowski also fell, this time fell 200-300m to glacier.

  Above C1 some big technical difficulties in rocky barrier about 200m high and needed fixed rope.

  No climbing with oxygen.


  Michalski - 24 March 80

  Lodz Himalayan Expedition.
  Leave KTM 26 March by road to Pokhara
  Hope baggage will meet them at Pokhara by truck 27 or 28 March.
  Leave Pokhara about 1 April depending on big truck's arrival at Bhairava.
  SE Spur = New route.
  Looks very steep and very difficult; last 1000m looks like rock but don't know 
    what sort of rock it is; also have problem of access to spur so must recce to 
    find best approach.
  5-6 days Pokhara to BC.
  Last village Hogo south of Annapurna II (up Madi Khola).
  BC at 4500-4800m but location not now known (depends on result of earlier recce).
  3 or 4 camps above BC depending on difficulty.
  2 Sherpas above BC including sirdar Lhakpa Dorje (1975 SW Face Everest).
  Oxygen medical only.


expid: ANN281302
peakid: ANN2
year: 1981
route1: NW Ridge-W Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Arturo Bergamaschi
sponsor: Italian Expedition Annapurna II-IV (Italian Alpine Club)
approach: Dumre->Marshyangdi->Pisang->Salatang Khola
bcdate: 1981-09-04
smtdate: 1981-09-23
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to snowstorm
othersmts: Attempted Annapurna IV (ANN4-813-01)
campsites: BC(04/09,3850m),C1(08/09,5305m),C2(17/09,5825m),C3(23/09,6400m),xxx(6400m)
routememo:
  Abandoned attempt on A-II on 2 Oct, then turned attention to A-IV and abandoned attempt on 10 Oct.

  72 hours snow BC, C1, C2 and C3 destroyed. Still C4 made after storm of late Sept. Reached 7300m and then strong wind made it impossible to continue. Eugenio Faggion and Rolando Menardi reached this point on 9 Oct, a day after C4 established at 6900m.

  BC  4 Sept - 3850m 
  C1  8 Sept - 5305m
  C2 17 Sept - 5825m
  C3 23 Sept - 6400m
  C4  9 Oct  - 6900m

  Route NW Ridge, not difficult technically. Expected to reach summit before 10 Oct but snow and wind defeated effort.

  Abandoned 10 Oct at 7300m. 9 Oct C4 made by Eugenio Faggion, Rolando Menardi and Gianni Tamiozzo.

  Some left BC rest, others are in BC today all well.

   
  Bergamaschi - 22 Aug 81

  Route will be same from northwest as British 1960 and 1978 perhaps, depending on state of ice. Want north wall to West Ridge and from Col on Ridge to summit.

  Approach from Pisang to glacier lost A4 and A2.

  BC at 4000m. 5 camps above BC with last camp on Col at 7400m; thence climb to summit.

  Route not so easy because no success since 1973 and ice wall of West Ridge condition not known.

  No Sherpas above BC.
  Medical oxygen only.
  Leave KTM for Dumre 25 Aug and arrive BC after 13 days about 6-8 Sept.
  Summit 5-10 Oct, nearly 8000m.


expid: ANN281301
peakid: ANN2
year: 1981
route1: S Ridge/SE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Nobuo Kuwahara
sponsor: Osaka Annapurna II Expedition 1981 (Osaka Climbers Club)
approach: Madi Khola->Hogagoth
bcdate: 1981-09-04
smtdate: 1981-10-11
termdate: 1981-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to fatal accident
accidents: Icikawa killed by 500m fall at 7400m
campsites:
  BC(04/09,2600m),Dep(08/09,3400m),ABC(11/09,4000m),C1(16/09,4700m),C2(20/09,5300m),C3(23/09,5900m),C4(30/09,6400m),C5(07/10,7090m),xxx(11/10,7400m)

routememo:
  Asada & Kuwahara - 23 Oct 81

  BC       - 2600m - 4 Sept
  Deposit  - 3400m - 8 Sept
  ABC      - 4000m - 11 Sept
  C1       - 4700m - 16 Sept
  C2       - 5300m - 20 Sept
  C3       - 5900m - 23 Sept
  C4       - 6400m - 30 Sept
  C5       - 7090m - 7 Oct

  Storm in late Sept drops 2m snow at C3, 1m at C1 = 1 week between C3 and C4, one week between C4 and C5 for rest. One party of 3 members made route above C5 for 2 days and then tired and parties changed - 7350m reached. Next party arrived C5 10 Oct (Asada, Kondo and Ichikawa). Next day fixing rope making route to 7400m. Ichikawa last man, in very strong wind at noon after 4 hours climbing and little altitude rock, separated from main fixed rope, started slipping and fell at 12:30 500m bouncing 10 times - body all broken. Asada and Kondo went to where body stopped, saw he was dead and brought back ice axe, personal backpack (no watch or camera) and hair. Next day 3 members from C4 go up to C5 and 5 together carried body to crevasse near C5 at about 7000m and buried there. Then expedition finished: "some members tired, some praying to God, so cannot continue" - leader. Summit would have been reached 12 Oct if no accident. All very strong, weather fine if windy.

  Route via South Ridge: ridge difficult so 100 meters to right of it on face. Route actually on South Face. C5 a little down and little right as marked on postcard before climb.


  Sharma, Tourism - 16 Oct 81

  Dead Kyoichi Ichikawa slipped from 24,278 feet/7400m for 500m. Body seen by 2 friends Tsuneo Kondo and Takayuki Asada on same day, 11 Oct. Fell at 12:30. Three men were climbing above C5 (7000m) to summit. Body seen at 6900m at 2:00 pm and was in steep snow and rock ridge so not possible to bring it down - not possible to reach it that day. On 12 Oct buried body at place where fell; buried by 2 friends. Watch, camera and hair were removed and are being taken to Japan.

  Expedition abandoned and all leave BC 17 Oct.

  11 Oct leader was in C3 (5800m) with other member and 3 others in C4 (6300m); very windy 11 Oct.


  Kuwahara - 23 Aug 81

  Route Southwest Ridge = virgin route. 
  Approach via Siklis via Madi Khola to Hoga and then 3 hours climb to BC. 
  1st BC 3200m
  2nd BC 3600m
  ABC    4020m
  C1     4700m
  C2     5400m
  C3     6000m
  C4     6587m
  C5     7000m end of snowfield

  1 or 2 bivouacs above C5.
  South (SW) Ridge very steep. 3000m fixed rope required: 1000m to ABC, 500m between C1 and C2 and 1500m C5 to top.

  9 members: 7 now here and more arrived after 4 days. 
  Leave together 28 Aug by road to Pokhara.

  5 days summit caravan to 1st BC and establish ABC 10 days after arrival 1st BC. Summit 1 month after ABC.
   
  3 Sherpas will go above to C3, but not above C3 because very dangerous.
   
  Oxygen medical only.


expid: ANN282301
peakid: ANN2
year: 1982
route1: S Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Kazuhiko Yamada
sponsor: Shinshu University Academic Alpine Club Annapurna II Expedition
approach: Madi Khola->Hogagoth
bcdate: 1982-09-14
smtdate: 1982-10-04
termdate: 1982-10-08
termnote: Abandoned at 7350m due to bad weather
campsites:
  TempBC(06/09,2600m),BC(14/09,4000m),C1(20/09,4800m),C2(22/09,5200m),C3(26/09,5800m),C4(01/10,6500m),C5(03/10,7050m),xxx(04/10,7350m)

routememo:
  Sharma, Tourism - 24 Nov 82

  Reached 5 Oct 7350m, abandoned same day because bad weather. Did not pitch C3 formally. All OK.


  Mitsui - 30 Aug 82

  1971 Spr Shinshu University tried Annapurna II. Now again on Annapurna II but different route.

  Caravan: Pokhara->Siklis->BC.
  Route = South Face, same as 1981 autumn.
  4 arrived 26 Aug, leave Sept 1 by road to Pokhara. 
  Temporary BC at 2600m and requires 800-1000m fixed rope.
  Arrive BC and fully stock it. 
  BC -> C1 5 days = 20 Sept
  C1 -> C2 3 days 
  C4 to summit very difficult, all steep rock climbing and unsound rock. 
  Must fix 800m fixed rope for descent.
  No Sherpas above BC.
  Summit 5-10 Oct
  No oxygen at all; may find some left by last Japanese team.

  1st Sept Kathmandu to Pokhara
  2nd-6th  Caravan march to temporary Base camp (2600m)
           (40 porters)
  7th-14   Route making to BC (4000m)
           Japanese 4/sirdar/mailrunner/BC worker/
           7 local porters (15 kg/35 Rs/day)
           700 meters rope used
  14 Sept  established BC (4000m)
  19       Leader Yamada went up to BC
  20       established C1 (4800m)
  22       established C2 (5200m)
  26       established C3 (5800m)
  1st Oct  established C4 (6500m)
  3nd      established C5 (7050m)
  4th      carrying up climbing gears to 7250m Yoshida and Moroto
  5th      Yokohama heavy high altitude sickness. We stopped climbing up
  6th      all members went back to BC
  7th      all members including Yamada went back to temporary BC
  8th      back caravan march to Pokhara with 12 porters
  11th     reached to Kathmandu


expid: ANN283101
peakid: ANN2
year: 1983
route1: N Face-W Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Robert Schauer
approach: Marshyangdi->Hongde->Sabje Khola
bcdate: 1983-04-11
smtdate: 1983-05-05
termnote: Abandoned at 7450m due to fatal accident, bad weather
campsites: BC(12/04,4600m),C1(22/04,5700m),C2(28/04,6400m),C3(30/04,7000m),xxx(05/05,7450m)
accidents: Klaus Schlammberger killed (possibly by fall while skiing during wind storm)
routememo:
  BC north-northwest of Annapurna IV as planned.

  17 days snow BC. Tried for summit above C3 on 5 May. Klaus Schlamberger and Schauer going for site of C4 at about 7200m (lower than high point have to descend then go up to Annapurna II top).

  Fatal accident, then no interest on the mountain after that. Could have gone to summit next day, which had good weather.

  Klaus was already 7300m on main ridge and Schauer 150m above him and could not see where he was but he didn't appear. Schauer went down to look and couldn't find him. Then fog covered Schauer. Looked 4 hours in area of hidden crevasses; found no tent left at C3, set up another tent there and realized he must have fallen. Next day found Klaus's body at 7000m at start of icefall. He must have been blown off balance day before. Others went to body and buried it there in crevasse.


expid: ANN283301
peakid: ANN2
year: 1983
route1: S Face-S Spur
nation: Australia
leaders: Timothy Macartney-Snape
sponsor: Australian Annapurna II Expedition
ascent1: 4th
approach: Madi Khola->Hogagoth
bcdate: 1983-08-19
smtdate: 1983-10-08
smttime: 1330
termdate: 1983-10-16
agency: Kunga
campsites:
  BC(19/08,2600m),ABC(20/08,3700m),C1(05/09,4875m),C2(16/09,6500m),C3(30/09,7100m),Biv(06/10,7600m),Smt(08/10)

routememo:
  BC before gauge through sanga at base of rock barrier - Japanese C1 top of rock barrier.

  From 30th Sept all 4 were C3 waiting for better weather. 6 Oct went to high biv at 7600m. Took couple days to make route around considerable difficulties to top. Got to C3 at beginning of bad weather including wind and then too tired to go below C2 which reached 9th evening and then snowfall and very slow descent in deep snow and small avalanches all around. By time they were down, glacier had shifted and very dangerous ice cliffs over hanging route. Ran out of food and fuel on slowed descent and ABC abandoned by Sherpas and Groom in deep snow. Snow conditions had been much better (harder) in August than later. Got to ABC 12 Oct.

  Above C3: rotten slabs steep loose rock. Last 300-500m was really difficult; last 150m was on snow and 100m below that was very steep rock gully.

  Before established C1 did a recce of W Face of South Spur but too dangerous from avalanching.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 18 Oct 83

  16 Oct by leader: "We are alive and well. On 8th Oct at midday we reached summit of Annapurna II having climbed its S Face." From 27 Sept till yesterday we had no contact with anyone. We were stuck on the mountain. To be in KTM 19 Oct, leave Nepal 22 Oct.

  "We are very late mainly duely to the very high winds and snow."


  Kunga Sherpa - 17 Oct 83

  8 Oct summit.
  27 Sept left BC for C2. C3 established 30 Sept and 1st Oct left for summit but turned back by high winds and snowfall. Remained at C3 for 5 days. On 6 Oct again left for summit having 2 bivs before. In Siklis and we joining them today 16 Oct - plan to reach Pokhara 19 Oct.


  Kunga Sherpa - 12 Oct 83

  All are well. 4 are at high camp to make summit. Waiting for good weather.
  Letter dated 10 Oct am from Kunga's man at BC. Groom in BC, less experienced.


  Letter of 20 Sept at ABC from Ang Karma:

  We spent 10 days in all at C1 waiting for good weather and taking loads up to the col - C2. On the way there, there is a short section of fixed rope and one evening Lincoln Hall pulled same rocks down on him as the rope was badly placed. The rocks broke his helmet and badly bruised his arm and foot so that he could not walk for a week.

  A few days ago we finally made it up to the col: Andy, Greg, Lincoln, Tenzing, Narayan; Mike returned to base because he had some infection.

  Ask for tickets for 11 Oct as we will probably be back in KTM on 6 Oct.

  C2 at 22,000 ft.


expid: ANN283302
peakid: ANN2
year: 1983
route1: N Face-W Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Chung Sang-Mo
sponsor: 1983 Annapurna II Expedition of Yeung Nam Univ Alpine Club
approach: Marshyangdi->Pisang->Salatang Khola
bcdate: 1983-09-01
smtdate: 1983-10-08
termdate: 1983-10-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to avalanching
accidents: Chung Sang-Mo (leader) evacuated because of frostbite
campsites:
  BC(01/09,3800m),C1(04/09,4500m),C2(07/09,5200m),C3(27/09,6200m),C4(01/10,6800m),C5(08/10,7300m),xxx(08/10,7300m)

routememo:
  BC at Sotang Khola northwest of Annapurna II via Pisang village.

  C4 avalanched on 11 Oct: 2 tents broken and equipment lost and leader covered by snow and in descent bivouacked and got frostbitten fingers. Others tried again to climb mountain, started up from BC on 18 Oct, but did not reach C5 again.

  No good weather weather and avalanches. Also lost much gear in avalanche of 11 Oct which even hit BC.

  Very long C2 to C4, used fixed rope and C2 to C3 very steep mixed ice and rock.


  Khadga, Tourism Ministry

  Abandoned 23 Oct due to high winds, snowfall and avalanches damaging route and Sherpas weakness.
  Schedule 27 Oct to leave BC.
  How high reached not given.


  Khadga & Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 19 Oct 1983

  Established C5 8 Oct ,300m.
  Same evening was storm and snowfall so members came down to C4 6800m.

  10 Oct 8 am was avalanche where leader Chung (Jung) Sang-Mo was covered by snow. By help of other members he was taken out of snow and came to C3 where also avalanched, so came to C2 but could not reach C2, so had to pass night on the way. Fingers of Chung frostbitten and he has left BC for KTM; others waiting for good weather to continue climb.


expid: ANN283401
peakid: ANN2
year: 1983
route1: N Face-W Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Ron Rutland
sponsor: British Annapurna II Winter Expedition
bcdate: 1983-11-25
smtdate: 1983-12-11
termdate: 1983-12-15
termnote: Abandoned at 5600m due to avalanching
campsites: BC(25/11,3650m),C1(01/12,4200m),C2(03/12,5200m),C3(10/12,5600m),xxx(11/12,5950m)
agency: Sherpa Cooperative Trekking (SCT)
routememo:
  Lot of very deep anow (powder with crust) some waist deep. 3 avalanches hitting BC with one on 1 Dec partially destroying BC and blast felt at C1. Avalanche coming from from high on face. Were series of serac barriers to be crossed under and then decided risks too great.

  Snow that was avalanching was late autumn's heavy snowfall that had not consolidated on sunless N Face.

  None was extremely old but had excellent equipment and no frostbite.


  Shyam, Tourism - 15 Dec 83

  Abandoned on 13 Dec because many snow avalanches C3 10 Dec 5600m. 
  Leave of BC 15 Dec planned; all well. No mention of being hit by avalanche.


expid: ANN284101
peakid: ANN2
year: 1984
route1: S Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Kunihiko Kondo
sponsor: Expedition to S Face of Mt. Annapurna II 1984
approach: Madi Khola->Hogagoth
bcdate: 1984-03-13
smtdate: 1984-04-02
termdate: 1984-04-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to heavy snowfall, avalanching and lost supplies
campsites: BC(13/03,2600m),ABC(24/03,4700m),C1(29/03,5900m),C2(01/04,5800m),xxx(02/04,6000m)
accidents: 6000m cache destroyed by avalanche, no injuries
routememo:
  BC south of mountain and south of its SW Ridge.

  6000m cache destroyed by avalanche. 2 difficult places on route: before ABC rock face at 3400m and again another rock band at 5300m just below C1. Made new route below C1.

  Deposited supplies on 2 April at 6000m at C2 and stayed at C2 3-4 April during heavy snowfall. 5th April returned to deposit site and found all supplies gone in avalanche so decided to abandon climb because no supplies left. Returned to BC 11th April after 2 days holiday at ABC.


expid: ANN284301
peakid: ANN2
year: 1984
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Nobuo Kuwahara
sponsor: Osaka Annapurna II South Face Expedition
approach: Madi Khola->Hogagoth
bcdate: 1984-08-23
smtdate: 1984-09-03
termdate: 1984-09-26
termnote: Abandoned at 5100m due to falling ice/rock
campsites: TempBC(23/08,2600m),Dep(25/08,4000m),BC(31/08,4700m),xxx(03/09,5100m)
accidents: None; 'very lucky' and more helmets needed; team too low for frostbite problems
routememo:
  Many stones and seracs falling (10 seracs daily) and twice fixed rope cut in chimney. Wanted to put C1 at 5200m but never able to reach site: fog obscured view of route, great danger from falling ice and stones. Tried 6 times to go up, but never above 5100m.
                                                                                                                                     Leader dropped out at TBC when stomach trouble developed, left team 25 Aug.


  Annapurna II - SW Ridge

  Kojo Sakai, Kawase, Takao tried to climb mountain (leader left expedition 25 Aug - not to BC)
  BC 31 Aug 4700m.

  3 Sept 3 members and 2 Sherpas reached 5100m, but bad weather above, so back to BC.

  5 times again to same point and always found bad weather and broken seracs and on 5 and 23rd fixed ropes broken. 26 Sept decided to abandon climb and left BC that day. Arrived KTM yesterday.


expid: ANN285301
peakid: ANN2
year: 1985
route1: S Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Masaaki Fuji
sponsor: Pukuola Tagawa Yamanokai Annapurna II Expedition 1985
bcdate: 1985-09-07
smtdate: 1985-10-05
termdate: 1985-10-11
termnote: Abandoned at 7020m due to bad weather and low food supply
campsites: BC(07/09,4500m),C1(10/09,5100m),C2(20/09,5600m),C3(27/09,6200m),C4(04/10,6800m),xxx(05/10,7020m)
accidents: C3 hit by avalanche, but no one injured; no other accidents
routememo:
  BC near glacier south of mountain.

  5 Oct route making and returned to C4; then from 6 Oct one week bad weather (snow constantly and high wind). 6 Oct down to C2 and no one back up. Fujii and Todaka to BC 8th Oct and 11 Oct all other members to BC.

  C3 hit by avalanche 25 Sept when 2 members inside and 2 Oct 3 members 6700m another avalanche but no one injured; no other accidents.

  Most difficult part is rock above C4 where one Japanese died at 7400m in autumn 1981. Team will follow same route as 1983 autumn Australians.


expid: ANN286102
peakid: ANN2
year: 1986
route1: N Face-W Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Jesus Bereziartua
sponsor: Azpeitia Annapurna II 86
approach: Marshyangdi->Pisang
bcdate: 1986-03-26
smtdate: 1986-04-30
termdate: 1986-05-02
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(26/03,3800m),C1(28/03,4800m),C2(08/04,5500m),C3(13/04,6400m),C4(30/04,7000m),xxx(30/04,7000m)
accidents: None
achievment: 1st Spanish attempt
agency: Remote Adventure
routememo:
  Segurola and Augustin stayed in C4 for 2 days waiting for good weather but continued to snow and always strong winds and very cold, so climb abandoned. No technical problems. BC much lower than planned because of snow. Route same as Nepalese Police to Annapurna IV and US to Annapurna II.

               


expid: ANN286101
peakid: ANN2
year: 1986
route1: NW Ridge-W Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Lucy Smith, Shari Kearney
sponsor: 1986 American Expedition to Annapurna II
approach: Marshyangdi->Hongde->Sabje Khola
bcdate: 1986-03-23
smtdate: 1986-05-04
termdate: 1986-05-08
termnote: Abandoned at 7250m due to fierce winds above C3
agency: Mountain Travel
campsites:
  BC(23/03,3800m),C1(28/03,4665m),C2(07/04,5250m),C3(18/04,5880m),C4(01/05,6340m),C5(03/05,6765m),xxx(04/05,7250m)

routememo:
  BC at 3780m at Sabje Khola NNW of Annapurna IV, very near Spanish BC Basque
  C1 at 4665m next to Basque C1
  C2 at 5250m just 1/2 hour below Basques C2 on NW Buttress of Annapurna IV
  C3 at 5880m towards top of NW Buttress, below Basque C3
  C4 at 6340m beginning of NW Ridge of Annapurna IV
  C5 at 6765m on NW Ridge of Annapurna IV
  High point at ridge between Annapurna II and Annapurna IV.

  Route to C1 normally yak pastures and moraine but now deep in snow that avalanched. 5 days snowstorm between establishing C1 and C2. C3 site reached 10th April, but stocked C2 before occupying C3 and bad weather also slowed progress. C4 placed in 3 different sites: 21,200 ft on 24th April, 20,800 ft on 29th and 100 yds away at same altitude next day. By end of April clear winds too strong to climb Annapurna II and requested Annapurna IV permit. 4th May reached ridge between Annapurna IV and Annapurna II to see rest of route to Annapurna II. Winds too strong for camps to stand. Annapurna IV permit denied by HMG. Now running out of fuel, never had 2 days in succession of good weather. Also getting tired; got everything off mountain in 2 days. Left BC 8th May.


expid: ANN287301
peakid: ANN2
year: 1987
route1: S Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Kunihiko Kondo
sponsor: Okayama Climbing Club Annapurna II SE Face Expedition
approach: Madi Khola->Siklis and Hogagoth (lost village)
bcdate: 1987-09-15
smtdate: 1987-10-13
termdate: 1987-10-21
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to dangerous route, strong cold wind
campsites: BC(15/09,2500m),ABC(20/09,4500m),Dep(02/10,6600m),xxx(13/10,7500m)
accidents: None
agency: Jai Himal Trekking
routememo:
  BC  SSW of mountain and SE of point 6103m 
  ABC 4500m below icefall (really a biv site, no fixed camp)
  Deposit above a rock band
  High point at rock face.

  18th Oct began alpine-style ascent with no fixed camp above BC: only 1 tent taken above BC so "ABC" was not a fixed camp. In reaching its site, bivouacked at 3500m 18th Sept 4000m, 19th Sept 4500m and ABC on 20th Sept. Then took 10 days to make route through icefall (actually nearly horizantally along icefall) till came to safe part of rock face above it (in 1984 had been able to go directly up icefall in 1 day's climb, but this year falling ice blocks from above rock face made it too dangerous). Then 11 more days up rock face to high point of 7500m on this very long route. 13th Oct slept at 7000m and on down to BC in 6 days. 

  Route difficult and dangerous rock face and icefall. From BC to top there are 3 rock faces which are very steep. In descent had 1 day's rest at ABC and arrived at BC 19th Oct. Climb finished one time through icefall was enough, very cold strong wind threatened frostbite. No good camp/biv sites on face. Left BC 21 Oct and reached KTM 23 Oct.

  "This mountain very dangerous - next time in Nepal, another mountain."

  The two-man team climbed alpine-style in an attempt to pioneer a new variation of the normal South Face route. But they found that whereas in 1984 it had been possible to go up through the icefall in one day, this time ice blocks falling from above the rock face made that too dangerous, and it took ten days to make a route in safety along the icefall to rock face. Then 11 more days were spent moving up the rock face on the very long route till they reached their highest point, 7500m, on 13th Oct. The attempt was now abandoned: they needed rest and better shelter, they did not want to move through the icefall more than once, very strong cold winds threatened them with frostbite, there were no good bivouac sites on the face, and the mountain was very dangerous. "Next time in Nepal, we go to other mountain."


expid: ANN290301
peakid: ANN2
year: 1990
route1: N Face
nation: USA
leaders: Steven Brimmer
sponsor: American Annapurna II Expedition
bcdate: 1990-09-22
smtdate: 1990-10-10
termdate: 1990-10-12
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to low temperatures, high winds
campsites: BC(22/09,4725m),ABC(28/09,5300m),C1(29/09,5800m),C2(02/10,6220m),C3(10/10,7200m),xxx(10/10)
accidents: 2 Sherpas frostbitten but will heal
agency: Yangrima
routememo:
  BC  near Annapurna IV BC site
  ABC ESE of BC across moraine from BC
  C2  on North Face
  C3  on North Face.

  Changed planned route because of extreme avalanche danger on original route; shifted to route followed by Koreans in Aut 1989 which is far to right of original line intended. Much avalanche activity. Another line to far right one day 15 avalanches in 12 hours of day light. 2 Sherpas slept in C3 on 10th Oct and during night both Sherpa's feet frostbitten, one being evacuated by RNAC scheduled flight to prevent damage. Members going up on 11th met the 2 Sherpas, who reported -20 degrees and fierce wind. Members turned back. 13th Oct snow at BC and 14th BC tents destroyed by wind.


expid: ANN453301
peakid: ANN4
year: 1953
route1: S Face (recon)
route2: NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Toshio Imanishi
sponsor: Academic Alpine Club of the University of Kyoto
approach: Marshyangdi->Hongde->Sabje Khola
bcdate: 1953-10-21
termdate: 1953-11-04
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to high winds
othersmts: Recon of Annapurna II (ANN2-533-01)
campsites:
  BC(21/10,4030m),C1(22/10,5000m),C2(24/10,5740m),C3(26/10,6100m),C4(31/10,6785m),C5(02/11,7100m),xxx(04/11)


expid: ANN455101
peakid: ANN4
year: 1955
route1: NW Ridge
nation: W Germany
leaders: Heinz Steinmetz
sponsor: German Nepal Expedition
ascent1: 1st
approach: Marshyangdi->Hongde->Sabje Khola
bcdate: 1955-05-13
smtdate: 1955-05-30
smttime: 1730
campsites: BC(13/05,4575m),ABC(17/05),C1(19/05,5440m),C2(24/05,6100m),C3(25/05,6460m),Smt(30/05),Biv(7100m)
routememo:
  Sherpas (names from literature):
  Da Temba (HC #212, 1930)
  Dawa Thondup (Da Thondup) (HC #49)

othersmts:
  Climbed Chulu East (CHUE-552-01), Kang Guru (KGUR-552-01), Pisang (PISA-552-01), Dam Kang West, Kang Juri, Lamjung West and Yulo Kang (all 1st ascents); recon Lamjung (LAMJ-551-01)


expid: ANN460101
peakid: ANN4
year: 1960
route1: NW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: J. O. M. Roberts
ascent1: 3rd,4th
countries: Nepal
approach: Marshyangdi->Hongde->Sabje Khola
bcdate: 1960-03-15
smtdate: 1960-05-18
othersmts: Climbed Annapurna II (ANN2-601-01)
primid: ANN260101
campsites:
  BC(15/03,3350m),ABC(4575m),C1(5365m),C2(5800m),C3(26/04,6400m),C4(30/04,6900m),C5(15/05,7270m),Smt(18-19/05)


expid: ANN469301
peakid: ANN4
year: 1969
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Czechoslovakia
leaders: Vladimir Prochazka
sponsor: Northern Bohemian Mountaineering Club, Libecec, Czechoslovakia
ascent1: 5th
approach: Marshyangdi->Hongde->Sabje Khola
smtdate: 1969-10-07
smttime: 1430
campsites: BC(4000m),C1(5000m),C2(5800m),C3(01/10,6500m),C4(06/10,7100m),Smt(07/10)
routememo:
  13 Oct 1969

  The Czechoslovak Annapurna expedition has become successful in scaling the Annapurna IV, learned from the Foreign Ministry today.

  Milos Albrecht and Ang Babu Sherpa of the Czechoslovakia Annapurna IV expedition reached the summit at 2:30 pm on 7th Oct.

  The first attempt to reach the peak was made by messers Masek, Chladek, Kopal and Simon on 2nd Oct [from C3] and returned from 450m below the peak.

  The second attempt was made on the 7th Oct by Vesely, Milos Albrecht and Ang Babu Sherpa, but only Albrecht and Sherpa reached the peak. Vesely turned back due to severe AMS.


expid: ANN470101
peakid: ANN4
year: 1970
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Masahiro Kawakita
sponsor: Kansai University Alpine Club
ascent1: 7th
approach: Marshyangdi->Hongde->Sabje Khola
smtdate: 1970-04-25
campsites: BC,C1,C2(19/04,5600m),C3(22/04,5900m),C4(23/04,6450m),Smt(25/04),Biv(25/04,6600m)
routememo:
  Kawakita - 19 May 70

  All expedition members to KTM today.
  25 April summit by Takeo and Furutani.
  Mostly same route as Czechs, from northwest; but big crevasse and icefalls so same deviations.

  Most difficult between C3 and C5 with big crevasse after IV 30-40m wide with 30-40m from lower lip to upper; last year Czechs and Yugos did not have this crevasse to get over; crevasse had slight overhang; Japanese used small ladders and very long pitons.

  C2 - 5600m  19 April
  C3 - 5900m  22 April
  C4 - 6450m  23 April

  Bivouac site = big crevasse between C4 and C5.

  Big avalanches near Annapurna II.

  All members reached 6000m including Dr; couldn't put more members on summit because had placed summit one week earlier and not enough food supplies in high camps.

  Did not use oxygen at all.
  Leave Nepal after 1-2 weeks perhaps; may do some trekking.


  Kawakita - 7 March 70

  5 members arrive today, 3 already here; so all here now all baggage in Pokhara already. Same route as Czechs. Leave morning 15 March to Pokhara and 18 March leave to march and establish basecamp 10 days later.

  Summit attempt 25 April; 4 camps with highest 7000m 
  6 Sherpas, 40 porters.


  Kansai University - Annapurna IV

  Munekazu Takeo, vice-leader
  M Teramoto, K Ichijima 
  Other 5 most arrive March by Thai, staying rented house near Chinese embassy 
  Same peak as Yugo and Czech, North Face ascent
  1st Japanese attempt on Annapurna IV
  First time in Nepal for all members; all 8 hope reach summit
  Brought same oxygen for medical purposes
  3-5 camps (last at 7000m)


expid: ANN474101
peakid: ANN4
year: 1974
route1: N Face-E Ridge
nation: W Germany
leaders: Peter Bednar
sponsor: DAV (German Alpine Club)
ascent1: 8th,9th
approach: Marshyangdi->Hongde->Sabje Khola
bcdate: 1974-03-20
smtdate: 1974-04-26
termdate: 1974-05-02
termnote: Summited on Apr 26 and again by leader during camp evacuation
othersmts: Attempted Annapurna II (ANN2-741-01) (held permit only for A-II)
campsites: BC(20/03,3600m),C1(26/03,4200m),C2(27/03,5050m),C3(14/04,6100m),C4(21/04,6950m),Smt(26/04,01/05)
accidents: Leutgaeb and Gruber suffered frostbitten toes after A-IV ascent
primid: ANN274101
routememo:
  Illegal climb of Annapurna IV from C5 to get route view of Annapurna II.

  Illegal climb reported to LO by Sherpas. Annapurna II permit withdrawn. Members and organizers fined 6000 Rs and banned for 3 yrs.


expid: ANN478101
peakid: ANN4
year: 1978
route1: NW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Chun Byung-Koo
sponsor: Korean Alpine Club
ascent1: 11th
approach: Marshyangdi->Hongde->Sabje Khola (BC)
bcdate: 1978-04-07
smtdate: 1978-04-23
smttime: 1550
termdate: 1978-04-28
accidents: Summiters fell 500 feet on descent
campsites:
  BC(07/04,4000m),C1(09/04,5000m),C2(14/04,5640m),C3(17/04,6200m),C4(20/04,6600m),Biv(22/04,6900m),Smt(23/04)

routememo:
  Summited during storm, bivouacked two nights. 


  Yoo Dong-Ok, Shanta Bhavan Hospital - 6 May 78

  Left C4 6600m 22 April to biv site 6900m and next morning 23 April to summit with 2 Sherpas. 

  23rd morning weather good but afternoon very bad: strong wind, snow and very cold.

  23rd left biv 6 am and reached top 4 pm in very bad weather after 2 pm; returned to biv site 11 pm: couldn't see site 11 pm: couldn't see site at first in storm and made temperature biv in crevasse that night very cold and strong wind.

  Toes and foot frostbitten on 23rd and night 23/24.

  Sherpas not frostbitten.
  Reached BC 27 April because very bad weather with heavy snowfall; could leave C4 only on 26th; 26th night C1,

  1st summit assault team was Ok and Sherpas; then with frostbite, bad weather with avalanche danger (Ok and Sherpas hit by avalanche near C3 on 26 April)

  Leader called halt to climbing; had plans for 2 more summit attacks.

  Many crevasses on route and deep snow - NE Ridge.

  All members came to KTM 7 or 8 May and all return to Korea 14-15 May.


  SR Sharma, Tourism - 27 April 78

  Annapurna IV conquered by Yoo Dang-Ok, 32 
  Sirdar Passang Norbu Sherpa, 25
  Sherpa Pemba Lama, 30

  10 Baisak = 23 April, afternoon without oxygen.
  When climbing to summit there was storm and heavy rain.


  Byun You-Keun - 16 March 78

  Same NW Ridge route as 1955 and 1974 Germans, Yugoslavia and Japan.

  To Sisuwa by bus 20 March and then to BC 10 days - via Pisang.

  BC 4000m; 4 camps above BC and biv site at 7000m; C4, last fixed camp at 6450m.

  1 sirdar and 4 Sherpas above BC, up to Advance BC (C3) at 5900m as well all members

  No oxygen for climbing or sleeping.

  25-28 April summit, 28th April big Korean national day. 
  6 Koreans on expeditions (probably no doctor).


expid: ANN479301
peakid: ANN4
year: 1979
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Martin Zabaleta
sponsor: Basque Expedition to Annapurna IV
countries: USA
approach: Marshyangdi->Hongde->Sabje Khola
bcdate: 1979-10-11
smtdate: 1979-10-25
termdate: 1979-10-26
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to illness (AMS) of Sherpa
campsites: BC(11/10,3950m),C1(14/10,4700m),C2(16/10,5400m),C3(22/10,6010m),C4(25/10,6900m),xxx(26/10)
accidents: Prunes and Pemba Lama hit by avalanche, Prunes injured wrist and bruises, Pemba Lama injured
routememo:
  Attempted from ridge connecting A-III & A-IV (steep with many seracs and crevasses) 

  1 Sherpa seriously ill with vomiting and strong headache.


  Buhler - 8 Nov 79

  Were on a rib that Koreans did, not same as British 1960 apparently, really Northwest Ridge.

  Buhler and a Sherpa got altitude altitude sickness on 25 Oct at high point and no one ready to go on up and only 3 days left to make flight connection. Others were in C3 and would have taken remaining 3 days to go up; also lot of high winds.

  Buhler within 8 hours hard climb of summit. 
  No accidents except avalanche that hit Prunes.
  Climbed no other peaks.


  Vidal - 19 Oct 79

  Going from C1 to make route to C2. Pemba Lama and Prunes in first party and decided to take short cut and Pemba want to search for Korean pitons. Pemba hit by small avalanche and fell with its force and took Prunes with him. Prunes managed to stop his fall but Pemba could not stop himself and so both again falling; again Prunes stopped himself and avalanche stopped with less steepness. 250m total fall - 1:30 pm 15 Oct. Prunes injured wrist and bruises.

  Pemba Lama maybe injured kidney; in Shanta Bhawan Hospital.

  Vidal was at C1; he not hit but as oldest, most dispensable to accompany injured men.

  Expedition continues and via same route; summit with good weather on 26 Oct.

  Came to KTM yesterday from Manang air strip.
  C1 - 4800m
  Hit by avalanche - 5300m
  C2 - about 5500m

   
  Carlos Buhler - 1 Oct 79

  Route = North Rib at 6400-7000m connecting lower and upper plateaus; rib seems most difficult part, then ridge from upper plateau to top; same route as 1960 via Dome.

  Arrive 28 Sept, leave 2-3 Oct to Dumre; 8 days to BC with 100-120 porters.

  BC at 4000m on Sabje Khola on which mountain school is located. South of north and west-southwest of Pisang.

  4 camps above BC with C4 at about 7000m
  20-21 days climbing, then next move off in order to leave Nepal on 9 Nov for cheap flight.

  4 Sherpas and 1 sirdar Temba
  No oxygen

  All members Spanish, except 1 American Carlos Buhler.

  Dr. Josep Aced and Joaquim Prunes = members of springs 1978 unauthorized attempt on Kangchenjunga Central summit.


expid: ANN480301
peakid: ANN4
year: 1980
route1: N Face-E Ridge
nation: W Germany
leaders: Franz Kroell
sponsor: DAV (German Alpine Club)
ascent1: 12th,13th
countries: Austria, Italy, Switzerland
approach: Dumre->Marshyangdi->Hongde->Sabje Khola
bcdate: 1980-10-11
smtdate: 1980-10-23
termdate: 1980-10-30
campsites: BC(11/10,3400m),C1(13/10,4300m),C2(15/10,5050m),C3(20/10,6200m),C4(22/10,6850m),Smt(23,26/10)
routememo:
  Kroell - 6 Nov 80

  BC 11 Oct - 3400m
  C1 13 Oct - 4300m
  C2 15 Oct - 5050m
  C3 20 Oct - 6200m
  C4 22 Oct - 6850m

  Summit: 23 Oct 
    Oellinger
    Gertsch
    Ang Pasang
    Nga Temba 

  25 Oct - group tried but forced back by very cold wind from 7200m; Pattis, Paeselt, Dr. Smoler and sirdar Ang Chopal maybe could have reached top but frostbite danger

  26 Oct - Ressle, Welch and Kroell reached summit 
  28 Oct - all in BC 
  30 Oct - left BC

  Climbed NW Ridge (classical route); quite safe and not very difficult. 1000m fixed rope.
  All returned yesterday except one who left 2nd day of trek to BC because of illness.
  No accident or much frostbite.

  Kroell & Geyer - 30 Sept 80

  All arrive KTM yesterday; leave about 20 Oct by road to Dumre.
  Route = NW Ridge (standard route)
  Arrive BC in 12th days from Dumre through Marshyangdi Khola; location depends on 
    snow conditions but hope put it at 3800m which is usual altitude.
  4 camps above with C4 at 6900m.
  6 Sherpas above BC with Ang Chopal as sirdar.
  3 weeks BC to BC (climbing period).
  Oxygen medical only


expid: ANN481101
peakid: ANN4
year: 1981
route1: NW Ridge
nation: W Germany
leaders: Franz Kroell
sponsor: DAV (German Alpine Club)
ascent1: 14th
countries: Austria
approach: Marshyangdi->Hongde->Sabje Khola
bcdate: 1981-04-08
smtdate: 1981-04-25
campsites: BC(08/04,3400m),C1(11/04,4300m),C2(12/04,5000m),C3(14/04,6000m),C4(23/04,6700m),Smt(25/04)
routememo:
  Kroell - 6 May 81

  BC - Pursiang Khola 3400m, same site as last 8 April.
  C4 - 23 April 6700m other camp and summit news from ministry OK.
  No second attempt. 2nd group did not reach even C4 - same last camps and ice axe
  No accidents or frostbite.
  No major wind, not very cold, but some snow.
  Not very hard route and not very high mountain.


  Kroell - 29 March 81

  DAV Annapurna IV expedition
  Route = Northwest Ridge again
  Leave KTM 31 March to Dumre
  Arrive BC about 9 April
  3 weeks for climbing 
  Return KTM 5-6 May - Narayani
  Leave KTM 9 May
  3 Sherpas above BC
  Camps about same as last year depending on snow conditions:
  BC - 3400m
  C1 - 4300m 
  C2 - 5050m
  C3 - 6200m
  C4 - 6850m
  Approach campsites from Dumre: Bhote Odar-Bhulbhule-Bahundanda-Jagat-
  Thonje-Chame to Pisang and BC.


expid: ANN481401
peakid: ANN4
year: 1981
route1: N Face-NW Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Gordon Smith
sponsor: Canadian Annapurna IV Winter Expedition
ascent1: 15th
countries: UK
approach: Marshyangdi->Hongde->Sabje Khola
bcdate: 1981-11-23
smtdate: 1981-12-22
smttime: 1500
termdate: 1981-12-28
campsites: BC(23/11,4665m),C1(03/12,5580m),C2(06/12,6020m),C3(21/12,6420m),Smt(22/12)
routememo:
  C1, C2, C3 were ice caves; temp was -30 C on summit day in high winds; 2nd attempt aborted at 7375m. Training climb for Canadian Everest Expedition (1982). 

  Langley, Smith and Serl still to come to KTM; rest arrived yesterday.

  2nd summit team: Sherpa blown over twice and Smith got dysentery. Langley got to about 24,200 feet (top of shoulder), Smith to 23,500 ft, Sherpa to 23,000. Would have taken another 10 days to put in a C4 by digging snow cave which is essential winter wind.
   
  3rd team got to C3 but made no attempt for summit; were actually in support of 2nd team it turned out. Serl didn't acclimatize.

  Route = North Face to NW Ridge, not technically difficult except a bit on buttress low on face.

  Adrian Burgess ran up a slab avalanche coming down, no damage done to him.

  No accidents or frostbite.


  Sharma, Tourism - 31 Dec 81

  26 Dec - first Smith and Langley attempted summit from C3 and reached 24,000 ft 
           except too much exhaustion and high wind; rest to C3 same day.
  27 Dec - 3 to C3 at 4:00 pm and Serl now unable to climb and high winds, so 2nd 
           group left C3 to go down. Made no attempt to above C3.
  28 Dec - all left BC for KTM.

  A Canadian team battling 100 mph winds and -30 degrees and cold has won a height record for winter mountaineering in the world's highest mountain range. Three days before Xmas, Alan and Adrian Burgess and Roger Marshall reached the ice summit of Annapurna IV at 24,688 feet, the highest peak yet climbed in the Nepalese winter climbing season.

  Commented Expedition Leader, Gordon Smith of Golden, BC: "This is a major step forward for recognition of Canada in international mountaineering."

  The 3 summit climbers are members of a training climb for Everest.
   

  Sharma, Tourism - 27 Dec 81

  Planned summit attack 23 Dec but weather very good on 22nd. Left C3 6500m at 7:00 am and reached top at 3:00 pm: 
    Aid Burgess
    Alan Burgess
    Roger Marshall
  Stayed on top 5 minutes and placed Nepal and Canada flags. Weather clear but wind 80 mph. Returned to C3 17:15 hours.

  2nd group: 
    Leader Gorden Smith
    Stephen Langley 
    Sirdar Sana Gyau Sherpa
  If weather good would make summit bid 25 Dec

  3rd group: 
    Carl Hannigan
    Dan Serl 
    Dawa Dorje Sherpa
  would go for top 27 Dec

  In climbing did not use tents except at BC all ice caves at C1, C2, and C3.


  Ad Burgess and Smith - 28 Oct 81

  Route = NW Ridge

  8 members and 2 Sherpas above BC other 4 or 3 Nov and leave KTM 5 Nov and 2 fews days later. Will do acclimatization climb of Pisang in Nov and start on Annapurna IV on 1 Dec. Summit before end Dec.

  Fixed camps in ice caves, 4 camps
  BC at 16,500 ft
  C4 23,000 ft or slightly lower
  No oxygen.
  Are at Ambassador Hotel now, move to KTM Guest House when space available.


  Burgess - 25 Nov 1981

  We set out base camp on 23rd Nov after many problems because of deep snow. We met the first snows at Chame and it showed up a bit. There is 3 feet of snow at BC and last night at 8 pm it was -20 degrees. Everybody is fit and well.


  Canadian Annapurna IV Expedition

  At 3:00 pm on Dec 22nd 1981 Allan and Adrian Burgess of Calgary Alberta and Roger Marshall of golden BC reached the 24,688 ft high summit of Annapurna IV in the Nepalese Himalaya. This ascent is the highest recorded during the official Nepalese winter season of December through January. The 3 summit climbers are members of a training expedition in preparation for 1982 Canadian Mt Everest expedition.

  Other team members include leader Gordon Smith of Golden, BC, Stephen Langley, Carl Hannigan and Jay Straith of Calgary, Alberta and Don Serl of Vancouver, British Columbia.

  A second summit team consisting of Gordon Smith, Stephen Langley and one Sherpa set out from Base Camp on Dec 23rd and was followed by a 3rd summit team of Don Serl, Carl Hannigan and another Sherpa on Dec 24th.

  Leader Gordon Smith commented that the success of the Canadian Annapurna IV team demonstrated the strength of a well united team of mountaineers prepared to work together for a common goal and hoped that this combination would be utilized in next years Canadian attempt on Mountain Everest.

  The expedition started from Kathmandu on November 6th with a day's journey by bus to the village of Dumre. From Dumre the group started walking up the Marshyangdi River valley with all their equipment and food carried by 110 porters.

  On November 13th, after 7 days walking the village of Chame at 9000 ft. was reached in an unreasonably early and heavy snowfall. As most porters were unshod they abanodned the group and returned to warmer climes.

  Twenty stalwart porters remained and along with the aid of horses and yaks hired locally the expedition continued for several days up the valley past the village of Ingre until the side valley leading to Annapurna IV was reached.

  Several days of ferrying loads of 70 lbs up the glacial morraines resulted in the establishing of base camp at 15,700 ft by Nov 26th.

  Local regulations did not permit the climb to start until the beginning of the official winter season on Dec 1. On that date the team started breaking trail through deep snow on the lower slopes.

  Adrian Burgess was in front and accidentally started a slab avalanche which, to everyone's amazement he outran, indicating an incredible level of fitness at that altitude.

  Fixed ropes were placed up the rocks and snow of the 1st buttress and by Dec 5th the ice cave which was Camp I was established at 18,700 ft. From here further ropes were fixed through tumbling ice cliffs to the site of Camp II at 20,000 ft.

  At this point a tent was placed temporarily to shelter expedition memebers while they dug the Camp II ice cave.

  On December 7th a severe snow storm with gale force winds hit the Annapurna range. This resulted in the route being obliterated by the fresh snow. The next day the following high winds ripped apart and blew away the C2 tent in a 80-100 mph gust. Left without shelter the two members who were digging C2 were forced to descend. This event reaffirmed the team's conviction that, as in Canada, the only sure way to weather a severe winter storm was to live in ice caves.

  The next two days were spent re-establishing the route from base to C2. Working from C1 two Sherpas, Sona Gyau and Dawa Dorje managed to complete the excavation of C2 by Dec 14th, allowing members to stock it with food and equipment.

  Once C2 was established progress was rapid and the Burgess twins together with Marshall and Langley fixed rope through the crevasses at the rim of the summit ridge maing the route safe to the site of C3 1 km along the 4 km ridge. The digging of C3 was completed by Dec 1th however it required 3 more days of carrying loads to supply the camp with food, survival and climbing equipment.

  After returning to base camp for a few days rest the 1st summit party left base camp early on Dec 20th and moving rapidly up the fixed ropes were ensconced in C3 by the night of Dec 2/12
  Ready for the summit attempt.

  It is appropriate that Roger Marshall should be a member of the first party to reach the summit as he instigated the 1982 Canadian Mt Everest Expedition 6 years ago


  Canadian Mount Everest Society Report 1981/82

  At the end of October 1981, the 1981 Canadian Winter Annapurna IV Expedition left Canada bound for Kathmandu, Nepal, to attempt to make the first winter ascent of Annapurna IV via the northwest buttress. The team was led by Gordon Smith, and consisted of Roger Marshall, twins Alan and Adrian Burges, Carl Hannigan, Steve Langley, Don Serl and Jay Straith.

  Leaving Kathmandu on November 6, 1981, with 5 Sherpa  porters, 1 government liasion officer and 105 local porters to carry the 3000 kilos of food and equipment, the expedition travelled in two buses to the small town of Dumre, a distance of only 120 kms, but taking most of one day to cover. The Marshyangdi Khola valley was then followed for 7 days to the town of Chame where shelter was taken for three days during an unseasonably early winter storm. At this point, 75 of the local porter left, not relishing the thought of wading through wet snow in bare feet and clad only in a blanket. Eventually the equipment was moved up the Base Camp valley using yaks and the few hardy porters who had remained. On November 23rd, Base Camp was occupied at 4660 metres and the rest of the month spent tramping out a trail across the glacier to the foot of the northwest buttress.

  December 1st saw the start of the official winter climbing season in Nepal, and hectic activity on the lower part of the mountain. Camp I was occupied by the Burgess twins on December 3rd and C2 on December 6th by Marshall and Smith. A snowstorm the following day forestalled the digging of a permanent ice-cave at this site. Eventually, the gale force wind blew away the C2 tent and a decision was reached not to use any further tents during the climb. From this point, all camps were located in ice-caves dug into the mountain side. Finally, on December 12 & 13th, the cave at C2 was completed and ready for use.

  During the next week, the twins, Marshall and Langley established, C3 at 6416m while Smith, Hannigan, Serl, Straith and the two Sherpas stocked all the ice-caves with food and equipment ready for an attempt to reach the summit. Finally, on December 22nd (the shortest day of the year), Al and Ad Burgess and Roger Marshall reached the summit of Annapurna IV climbing an incredible 1109 metres vertical height in a single day from C3. The whole trip up and down from the top ice-cave was accomplished in daylight, despite wind gusts up to 100 kmph and a Camp III starting temperature of -30 degree C.

  A second summit bid on December 26th, by Smith, Langley and the Sherpa Sirdar was abandoned shortly below the summit due to increasingly severe winds. All the camps were cleared on the descent and Base Camp evacuated on December 28th. By January 2, 1982 all the team was back in Kathmandu, having climbed the highest mountain in the world to date during the official Nepalese winter climbing season of December-January. This does not, of course, include the Polish winter ascent of Everest which was accomplished in February 1980 and is unrecognised in Nepal.


expid: ANN483101
peakid: ANN4
year: 1983
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yasumitsu Yamano
sponsor: Timangchaur Alpine Club Expedition
ascent1: 17th
approach: Marshyangdi->Pisang->Salatang Khola
bcdate: 1983-04-02
smtdate: 1983-05-09
smttime: 0900
campsites: BC(02/04,3500m),C1(08/04,4300m),C2(21/04,5250m),C3(29/04,6100m),C4(08/05,7000m),Smt(09/05)
accidents: Yamamoto evacuated by helicopter with hepatitis (nothing else)
routememo:
  Left C4 6:00 am and reached top 9:00 am.

  2 weeks between C1 and C2 because one week bad weather. Much snowfall - used 2500m fixed rope up steep face to the snow ridge.

  The 4-man Timangchaur Yamanokai Club party of Tokyo led by Yasumitsu Yamano (36) climbed the mountain by north on May 9. BC(3500m) was made by Salatang Khola on April 2. C1(4300m) on 8th; C2(5300m) on 21st and C3(6100m) on 29th were made. Next day, deputy leader Osamu Yamamoto (31) got fever and members evacuated him down to a village. Noboru Yokoyama (28) and Mikioh Takamatsu (34) with Sherpa members only, resumed climbing and fixed ropes for 500m on North Ridge on 8th and made C4 (7000m). The two members and sirdar Ang Phuri Lama reached the top. Yamamoto was later diagnosed hepatitis in a KTM hospital.


expid: ANN483301
peakid: ANN4
year: 1983
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Adolf Weissensteiner
sponsor: Austrian-Swiss Expedition to Annapurna IV
ascent1: 18th
countries: Austria, France, W Germany
approach: Marshyangdi->Hongde->Sabje Khola
bcdate: 1983-09-25
smtdate: 1983-10-07
smttime: 1600
termdate: 1983-10-10
campsites: BC(25/09,3750m),ABC(27/09,4500m),C1(29/09,5100m),C2(30/09,5800m),C3(05/10,6300m),Smt(07/10)
routememo:
  BC on east side of NW Ridge of Annapurna IV on the ridge (reached via Honge village).

  1st summit party on top at about 4:00 pm in not difficult climb (same even without crampons) and establish C3 at about 8:00. 

  2nd summit party (Weissensteiner, Zoechling, Svajda and Moti Lal Gurung) moved to C3 on 7th to go to Japan 8th and started at 7:00 am for summit on 8th but on the way Moti Lal delayed progress with need for massaging cold toes. At small peak on ridge bad weather moved in and decided to turn around at 7000m and return to C3 at 3:00 pm which now was empty. Snowed that night and went to BC on 9th. Now no time left for another summit bid and weather still bad.

  Same as Australian autumn 1982 in 1st ascent. Technically not difficult but lot of snow which meant potential danger.


expid: ANN484302
peakid: ANN4
year: 1984
route1: NW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Herve Thivierge
sponsor: Annapurna IV Expedition (French)
countries: Switzerland, W Germany
approach: Marshyangdi->Hongde->Sabje Khola
bcdate: 1984-09-29
smtdate: 1984-10-06
termdate: 1984-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(29/09,4800m),C1(30/09,5350m),C2(02/10,5700m),C3(06/10,6400m),xxx(06/10)
accidents: 1 member sick (cause unknown) and left expedition
routememo:
  BC northeast of Annapurna IV, north of glacier northeast of peak
  C2 on spur to get onto NW Ridge
  C3 on NW Ridge
  High point at C3.

  "I think it is not difficult" but between C2 and C3 is ice wall and drove C3 very long way off.

  8th Oct was last day of good weather and now no one in C3 for summit push. On 6-7th had not supplies in C3 for summit push. All down to BC 9th and awaiting good weather. 14th sun coming back but lot of wind and clouds on mountain and deep snow and tried to resume climb since porters coming 17th. Went to C1 and C2 and cleared these camps and 1400m of fixed rope on 15th, but left C3 as it was. 40 cm snow at BC. 

  No technical difficulties on route but most members unable to climb without some fixed rope because long route. After snowfall only 8 strong climbers could proceed.


expid: ANN484301
peakid: ANN4
year: 1984
route1: N Face (to 6800m)
route2: NW Ridge (to 5300m)
nation: Italy
leaders: Renato Moro
sponsor: Annapurna IV Expedition 1984 (Italian)
countries: France
approach: Marshyangdi->Hongde->Sabje Khola
bcdate: 1984-09-28
smtdate: 1984-10-06
termdate: 1984-10-11
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to lack of rope (N Face); at 5300m for lack of time (NW Ridge)
accidents: None except one member started getting edema and had to go to Pisang village for few days
campsites:
  BC(28/09,4300m),C1(01/10,5300m),C2(04/10,6400m),xxx(06/10,6800m); NW-Ridge-C1(08/10,4800m),C2(09/10,5300m),xxx(10/10)

routememo:
  First attempted N Face, where it would have been necessary to fix rope at least as high as 7200m. Team had fixed 1000m by the time Bisson and Zortea got to 6800m on 6 Oct, and they did not have enough gear to continue fixing at this rate. Team then attempted the NW Ridge from French expedition's base camp, and all members got to 5300m on 9 Oct. That night there was heavy snowfall and now they had no more time left for their climb. (It had been agreed between this party and the French for the NW Ridge that the two would climb together on the ridge, but the liaison officer with the Italian-French group would not permit this party to go to the ridge. A ridge attempt was made only after the LO had left the expedition).

  Necessary to fix rope to 7200m or so on steep face and had not enough equipment. Had already put in 1000m of rope. Made new camp for NW Ridge route at French BC on 8th Oct. On 9th Oct reached C1 on French route at 5300m, but that night heavy snowfall and no time left for more climbing. 

  Had been forced by LO to stop at Pisang village on approach march and not go on French expedition's NW Ridge route as had been agreed in KTM amongst leaders and ministry. Then LO left Italians and they could go to French route but turned out to be too late.


expid: ANN485301
peakid: ANN4
year: 1985
route1: NW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Phillipe Paumier
sponsor: ARPE 2nd French Medical Expedition in the Himalaya 1985
countries: Netherlands
approach: Marshyangdi->Hongde->Sabje Khola
bcdate: 1985-10-05
smtdate: 1985-10-06
termdate: 1985-10-25
termnote: Abandoned at 5000m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(05/10,4750m),Dep(06/10,5000m),xxx(06-07/10)
accidents: Mailrunner died of exhaustion and hypothermia (Oct 17)
routememo:
  BC west of NW Ridge
  Deposit at bottom of NW Ridge.

  Bad weather from 7 Oct sent avalanches to BC and blasts of these destroyed 2 tents. More than 2m deep snow at BC by mid-Oct. More heavy snowfall from 17th Oct and decided to evacuate BC leaving gear there. 18 Oct found body of mailrunner who tried to rejoin team. Started up 20 Oct and stayed there 9 days doing experiments and packing. 3 members tried on 28 Oct to go to deposit but too much snow and wind.

  Only 5 members actually did any climbing above BC. Did all research planned for BC.

  ARPE = Association pour la Recherche en Physiologie de l'Environment


expid: ANN486101
peakid: ANN4
year: 1986
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Gupta Bahadur Rana
sponsor: Nepal Mountaineering Police
ascent1: 19th
approach: Marshyandi->Hongde->Sabje Khola
bcdate: 1986-04-08
smtdate: 1986-05-02
campsites: BC(08/04,4500m),C1(17/04,5250m),C2(21/04,6000m),C3(29/04,6625m),Smt(02/05)
accidents: Moti Lal fell into crevasse (uninjured); Kamel Bhandari suffered frostbitten feet
agency: NPMAF
routememo:
  1st group of men including Sherpas arrived BC site 8 April, cleared area where there was deep snow and officially established camp there on day of pujas, 14 April. 2nd group of men and all women members arrived at BC 17 April. Women did very little climbing because plan was for 1st team of men to go to summit and then other men to take women up with them, but then General Election Day approached and bombs were being discovered, so expedition ended early so police officers could resume their duties.

  Moti Lal fell into crevasse but rescued uninjured. Kamal Bhandari got frostbitten on sides of his feet and hospitalized few days but now Ok.


  Arrue, Basque Anna II - 13 May 86

  Police succeeded on Annapurna IV: Basques and Americans worked on route for several weeks before Police arrived to make a quick ascent.


  Lucy Smith - 17 May 86

  Her Annapurna II expedition members saw Nepalese on Annapurna IV summit. Nepal women arrived at BC late and did very little climbing before expedition suddenly ordered back to KTM.


expid: ANN486301
peakid: ANN4
year: 1986
route1: NW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Michel Vincent
sponsor: Jaccoux-Vincent Expedition to Annapurna IV
ascent1: 20th
approach: Marshyangdi->Hongde->Sabje Khola
bcdate: 1986-10-23
smtdate: 1986-11-07
campsites: BC(23/10,4800m),C1(25/10,5300m),C2(27/10,5800m),C3(28/10,6300m),C4(03/11,6700m),Smt(07/11)
accidents: 1 member hit by stonefall aftr leaving BC (some bones broken)
achievment: 1st French ascent
agency: Sherpa Society
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at 1st flat place on northeast pillar shoulder (normal site)
  C2 at 2nd shoulder below big icefall
  C3 on middle of NW Ridge (flat section)
  C4 on NW Ridge.

  3rd Nov team on way to summit, which planned to reach on 4th Nov, but snowstorm sent climbers down to BC. Up again from BC on 5th Nov, Vincent and Bouchet to C1. 6th Nov they went to C3 while Charlet and Sungdare from BC to C3. 7th Nov 3 men to summit while Charlet stopped 50m below summit because feared frostbitten toes (cold wind). No time for others summit bid. Had planned C4 for about 7000m but wind too strong.


expid: ANN487101
peakid: ANN4
year: 1987
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Harald Nave
sponsor: Eiselin Sports Annapurna IV Expedition
countries: Switzerland, W Germany
approach: Marshyangdi->Hongde->Sabje Khola
bcdate: 1987-04-08
smtdate: 1987-04-23
termdate: 1987-04-24
termnote: Abandoned at 5700m due to heavy snowfall, avalanche danger
campsites: BC(08/04,3800m),ABC(11-12/04,4400m),Dep(15/04,5000m),Biv(23/04,5700m)
accidents: None
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC at Sabje Khola, last huts (too low, but high as porters would go)
  Depot at shoulder (slept in only once)
  Biv on NW Ridge
  High point at biv site.

  ABC was 2 tents and deposit of gear. Another deposit at shoulder (not really a ridge but permanent snow). Really not on NW Ridge but this is only route possible for survival. Tried alpine-style attempt from 5000m by 4 members to 5700m and stopped there with snow conditions "absolutely hopeless." On 24th April morning another heavy snowfall began and down to BC and climb finished. Severe avalanche and slab danger; went through dangerous serac couloir to reach high point, a dangerous part of climb forced by normally safer rock being covered by new loose snow. Route not difficult.


expid: ANN487302
peakid: ANN4
year: 1987
route1: N Ridge-W Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Eric Simonson
sponsor: 1987 American Annapurna IV N Ridge Expedition
approach: Marshyangdi->Hongde->Sabje Khola
bcdate: 1987-09-29
smtdate: 1987-10-16
termdate: 1987-10-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6550m due to severe storm, supplies running out
campsites: BC(29/09,4665m),C1(02/10,5250m),C2(05/10,5550m),C3(11/10,6250m),xxx(16/10,6460m)
accidents: None except member had two teeth knocked out by rock at 6400m at bottom of rock band
agency: Rover Treks
routememo:
  BC at high normal BC Site
  C1 at top of rock band that forms buttress on North Ridge
  C2 at farther up North Ridge
  C3 at top of North Ridge where meets West Ridge
  High point at West Ridge.

  1st summit team in C3 had winds 35 mph with gusts to 65-70 mph. They stayed in C3 4 nights waiting for winds to drop, then descended on 15th. 2nd team arrived C3 14th, rested 15th and 16th Wilson from 1st team and John started up West Ridge. Wilson reached just under 21,000 ft, stopped when not feeling well, while John on up to 21,000 ft and decided had found suitable site for C4 on this very long ridge. Wilson and John slept in C3 planning to pitch C4 next day and go for top on 18th. But 17th morning clouds moved in from south and headed down to BC where snowed that night. Decided to abandoned climb that morning and took tents down since were running out of fuel and food. Had ordered porters for 21st as fixed time to leave mountain. Left BC morning of 19th in 2 ft of snow and snowing so hard some members lost track. Avalanche hit John (not hurt) and another member and cook staff and from there on out was a fight to get out through waist-deep snow and white out.

  4 left BC 2 days ahead of the rest in hurry to get home.


expid: ANN487301
peakid: ANN4
year: 1987
route1: N Face rib
nation: USA
leaders: Steven Brimmer
sponsor: 1987 American Annapurna IV Himalayan Expedition
ascent1: 21st
approach: Marshyangdi->Hongde->Sabje Khola
bcdate: 1987-09-16
smtdate: 1987-10-10
smttime: 1515
termdate: 1987-10-18
campsites: BC(16/09,4725m),C1(01/10,5275m),C2(05/10,5950m),C3(09/10,6950m),Smt(10/10)
accidents: Daily intestinal illness; Brimmer pneumonia
achievment: New route; 1st American on top
agency: Rover Treks
routememo:
  BC at bank of Sabje Khola's glacier (highest BC site in this area)
  C1 in icefall below rib
  C2 on rib, 1/3 of way up it
  C3 at top of rib on upper snowfall of face.

  10th Oct 6am Schinhofen and Sirdar Pemba Norbu set out for top from C3. Waist-deep snow enroute but got to top at 3:15 pm. In descent extremely exhausted by deep snow and got back to C3 at 8 pm. Should have gone down to C2. Brimmer and Dawa Onchu were in C3 for summit bid - very crowded but Brimmer and Dawa could do cooking which other 2 too tired to do. 11th Oct all four down. Brimmer and Schinhofen in C2 which Brimmer with pneumonia developing. 

  2nd summit bid by Collet and Kosty on 13th Oct. BC to C1 with 4 Sherpas on 14th. 5th all 6 into icefall which had drastically changed. Tried to put in new route but too dangerous to proceed so had to turn back at 5640m. C3 had to be left in place. Left BC on 18th. 

  Lots of avalanches on face; 35m overhanging ice climbs at 6700m; upper part of rib is knife-edge and steep; lots of vertical ice climbing even below C1. Fixed 1600m of rope altogether.


expid: ANN490301
peakid: ANN4
year: 1990
route1: NW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Herve Thivierge
sponsor: Annapurna IV Lyon Rhone-Alpes 1990
approach: Marshyangdi->Hongde->Sabje Khola
bcdate: 1990-10-04
smtdate: 1990-10-13
termdate: 1990-10-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due dangerous snow conditions
campsites: BC(04/10,4800m),C1(05/10,5400m),C2(07/10,5800m),C3(12/10,6500m),xxx(13/10,6600m)
agency: Sherpa Trekking Service (STS)
routememo:
  BC at normal site near lake
  C3 at NW Ridge
  High point at NW Ridge

  13th Oct big snowstorm with fierce winds which broke tents at BC. Up to C2 on 7th, 2 days in C2 and tried to go above C2 on slope with much windslab and wind still blowing, so 18th decided to stop because too dangerous and not enough time to wait. Left BC 18th Oct and wind still blowing. 

  Thivierge went up to see route on 13th Oct, not for summit attempt.


expid: ANN490302
peakid: ANN4
year: 1990
route1: NW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Bernard Clement
sponsor: Expe Himal A4 - French to Annapurna
approach: Marshyangdi->Hongde->Sabje Khola
bcdate: 1990-10-17
smtdate: 1990-10-29
termdate: 1990-11-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due dangerous snow conditions, lack of time
campsites: BC(17/10,4800m),C1(20/10,5300m),C2(22/10,5800m),C3(26/10,6300m),xxx(29/10,6800m)
accidents: Berthelemy very sick with cerebral edema (down from C2 to Manang and back to BC)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at glacier which feeds Sabje Khola
  C1 on snow at top rocks enroute to NW Ridge
  C2 below ridge
  C3 on NW Ridge
  High point at NW Ridge.

  29th Oct tried to reach summit but not successful; needed C4 but no plan for such a camp.

  Summit bid by 5 members plus Kami Rinzi and Nga Temba Sherpa. Left C3 at 4:30 am, climbed ridge all day but snow conditions bad. Slowly reached 6800m at 3 pm, still long way from summit and getting late so all 7 turned back and were in C3 at 6 pm (dusk). 30th down to BC and left BC 1st Nov. Time alloted climb was only 12 days and needed at least 2 weeks for this mountain.


expid: ANN490303
peakid: ANN4
year: 1990
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Indonesia
leaders: Ms. Aryati
sponsor: ANNA. Himalaya Putri Patria (Women Heros) Indonesia 1990
ascent1: 23rd
approach: Marshyangdi->Hongde->Sabje Khola
bcdate: 1990-11-05
smtdate: 1990-11-14
smttime: 1430
campsites: BC(05/11,4750m),C1(09/11,5380m),C2(11/11,6960m),C3(12/11,7150m),Smt(14/11)
achievment: 1st Indonesian on summit; 1st woman on summit
agency: Himalayan Journeys
routememo:
  BC at Sabje Khola's source
  C2 just below ridge
  C3 at NW Ridge.

  Had planned summit push from C3 on 13th Nov, but too much wind and stayed in C3 that day; in C3 was Aryati and 4 Sherpas; in C2 were Clara and 2 Sherpas in support only; too risky to try for more than one summit success; were able to succeed after French failures; perhaps not so deep show. Summiters left C3 6 am, on top 14:30, 10 minutes on top and back at C3 21:00 hrs with Miss Aryati on oxygen to summit (and sleeping in C3 before). "Some" technical difficulty and from C3 to top snow was knee deep.


expid: ANN491101
peakid: ANN4
year: 1991
route1: NW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Richard Salisbury
sponsor: 1991 American Annapurna IV Expedition
approach: Marshyangdi->Hongde->Sabje Khola
bcdate: 1991-04-03
smtdate: 1991-04-19
termdate: 1991-04-20
termnote: Abandoned at 5650m due to bad weather, deep snow
campsites: BC(03/04,3800m),ABC(04/04,4700m),C1(17/04,5500m),xxx(19/04,5650m)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Journeys Mountaineering & Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site on glacial moraine 1 hour below base of icefall
  C1 in icefall.

  After 4th April had several bad snowstorms but no avalanche activity till night of 19th when edge of avalanche collapsed Tweedie's tent at C1. Tweedie down to BC on 20th and climb over. Tweedie now only foreigner on mountain. Women had left BC 17th and other men on 19th because team had to quit on 29th and it was already clear success not possible. Tweedie just wanted to see how high he could get.


expid: ANN491301
peakid: ANN4
year: 1991
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Koichi Sugiyama
sponsor: Osaka Annapurna IV Expedition
approach: Marshyangdi->Hongde->Sabje Khola
bcdate: 1991-08-27
smtdate: 1991-09-05
termdate: 1991-09-07
termnote: Abandoned at 6480m due to constant snowfall, lack of fuel and lack of time
campsites: BC(27/08,4550m),C1(03/09,5600m),xxx(05/09,6480m)
accidents: None
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC near glacier
  C1 above rock barrier towards point 6484m on Annapurna Conservative Area Map
  High point on NW Ridge at point 6484m (C2 site).

  1st week at BC one week continuous rainfall. 3rd to 5th Sept only 3 days could climb (because of snow avalanching); carried gear to C2 5th Sept after spending 4th fixing route through icefall to 6400m. Arrived C2 site at 6480m at 3 pm and after discussion decided to leave gear and go down to C1; was alreading snowing. Another problem: now saw many hidden crevasses beyond C2 and must bring up more rope and snow bars. 5th Sept slept in C1. Weather bad on 6th (snowing at C1, raining at BC). Down to BC on 6th and found cooking gas was finished; cut kitchen timbers for firewood for fuel. 

  Since had to be back in KTM on 18th, decided not enough time for climb. Left BC 7th Sept and arrived KTM 13th Sept night.


expid: ANN491302
peakid: ANN4
year: 1991
route1: N Face-NW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Rim Jong-Bum
sponsor: 1991 Autumn Annapurna II & IV Buddhist Expedition
approach: Marshyangdi->Hongde->Sabje Khola
bcdate: 1991-09-09
smtdate: 1991-10-09
termdate: 1991-10-13
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to high winds
othersmts: Permit for Annapurna II (not attempted)
campsites: BC(09/09,4650m),C1(16/09,5350m),C2(22/09,6100m),C3(25/09,6500m),xxx(09/10,7000m)
accidents: Rinji and Gombu frostbitten toes and fingers but will heal
agency: Wangdi
routememo:
  Tried summit of Annapurna IV 26th Sept after pitching C3 day before and returning to C2. 26th reached 6400m and strong wind, C1 broken & down to BC. Again up 6th Oct from BC. 9th Oct from C2 again try for Annapurna IV summit, reached 7000m; wind driven ice particles, too strong wind and down to C2. Then 2 tents broken at C2 9/10th Oct night. Climb finished and 11th Oct in BC. C3 never slept in but used for resting. Left BC 13th Oct. 

  * Sherpas: Rinzing, Pemba Tshering, Gombu, Ang Dorje, Lhakpa Norbu


expid: ANN491303
peakid: ANN4
year: 1991
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Milenko Savic
sponsor: Belgrade Mountaineering Expedition to Annapurna IV
approach: Marshyangdi->Hongde->Sabje Khola
bcdate: 1991-11-01
smtdate: 1991-11-15
termdate: 1991-11-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to strong winds, cold and snow
campsites: BC(01/11,4700m),C1(04/11,5300m),C2(06/11,5800m),C3(12/11,6300m),xxx(15/11,6500m)
accidents: 1 member with frostbitten fingers and toes; 1 Sherpa with frostbitten fingers
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Sabje Khola
  C3 at top of ridge
  High point on NW Ridge.

  Two attempts to push beyond C3 (14 and 15 Nov):      

  13th Nov up from C3 to 6450m and back to C3 because of wind and Sherpas slight frostbite. This team's 3 members (Padezanin, Micovic and Milojevic) and Dawa and Nima Sherpas on 14th down to BC. 

  Next time 3 members on 14th arrived C3 and slept at 6500m in a tent which had hoped to put at 6800-7000m as C4 but stopped at 6500m because wind made it impossible to start up (and was blowing ice snow horizontally, which can wound one's face). 16th down to BC and climb finished: strong winds and very cold (-20 degrees in rucksack on 15th and even at BC -20 to -40 degrees all day) and half-meter new snow at BC (snowfall had delayed establishment of C3). 

  Left BC 20 Nov. Fixed 700m rope (350m just below C1) and used some other expedition's new fixed rope.


expid: ANN492101
peakid: ANN4
year: 1992
route1: NW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Michael Trueman
sponsor: British Joint Services Expedition
ascent1: 24th
countries: Germany
approach: Marshyangdi->Hongde->Sabje Khola
bcdate: 1992-03-31
smtdate: 1992-05-05
termdate: 1992-05-09
othersmts: Permit for Annapurna II (not attempted)
accidents: Dunn and Kuelheim frostbite; Kuelheim with cerebral edema
agency: Mountain Travel
campsites:
  BC(31/03,3800m),ABC(03/04,4800m),C1(07/04,5100m),C2(10/04,5400m),C3(20/04,6100m),C4(29/04,6484m),C5(03/05,7000m),Smt(05/05)

routememo:
  BC  at Sabje Khola valley normal site
  ABC beside glacier, south of BC
  C1  at top of cliff below the Dome, which is on NW Ridge
  C2  further up the Dome ridge to Dome
  C3  just below Dome
  C4  at point 6484 on Annapurna area map on ridge 
  C5  on NW Ridge.

  Only 5 to summit because 2 members had became ill from diarrhea and went down while Trueman dropped down to control the climb. A member was in summit party but turned back soon after leaving C5 with suspected cerebral edema (and who developed frostbite) and stayed at C5 till others could evacuate him and 2 members stayed with them. Dunn's hands so frostbitten during summit success that he couldn't use them (his nose also frostbitten, it may have to have plastic surgery and he may lose tops of 2 fingers). So now no strength for any attempt on Annapurna II. Had 3-day job getting people in C1 off the mountain.

  Annapurna IV is totally different from 30 years ago; ice cliffs totally different and tons of ice must have broken away. All this change between C2 and C4 (C4 was 1960's C3). Technical difficulties were these cliff and crevasses which had to be fixed, and huge crevasse system opened above C4 which was not fixed but where had to be careful.

  Snowed often and snow conditions also helped exhaust team, as did technical problems. Probably should have had high-altitude Sherpas to carry loads.

  Trueman reported the mountain was totally different from what his research had shown it to be 30 years ago. Ice cliffs were very different: tons of ice must have broken away causing realignment of the cliffs and creating big crevasses. All this changed between his team's C2 at 5400m and his C4 at 6484m, which had been the site for C3 in 1960. The technical difficulties were these cliffs and crevasses between C2 and C4 which had to be fixed with rope, and a huge crevasses system above C4 which was not fixed but where great care was needed. Because of technical problems, he felt the team probably should have employed high-altitude Sherpas to carry supply loads and save members' strength for the planned attempt on Annapurna II which was not made.


  British Joint Serives Annapurna II and IV Expedition 1992
  Taken from Himalaya Club Newsletter 1993

  The British Joint Services Expedition Annapurna 2 and 4 1992, led by Major Mike Trueman 10th Gorkha Rifles, arrived at Lower Base Camp on 31 March 1992 after a one week approach march from the road-head at Besi Sahar. Conditions on arrival were poor and the team were plagued by bad weather throughout the climb. Advance BC (4800m) was established on 3 April after a concerted effort by the team and 4 porters.

  The route to the summits followed the prominent ridge to a feature known as the Dome (6300m), between Annapurnas 3 and 4. This gained the main shoulder of Annapurna 4 which in turn led to the to the equally long knife edge leading to Annapurna 2.

  From our research, supported by the sirdar who had been on the mountain 10 years before. It was apparent that the features of the mountain had changed significantly: Large cliffs and sizeable crevasse fields had formed as large chunks of the mountain had given way. This presumably accounted for the high failure rate of expeditions during the previous decade.

  Camp I (5100m) was established on 7th April on an obvious promontory, and C2 quickly followed on 10 April. This was the start of the maind difficulties of the climb and it took a further 10 days to force the route to camp 3 on 20 April.

  Weather conditions were continuing to take their toll on load carrying members and lead climbers, and a particularly heavy snowfall on 23 April forced the team off the mountain for 3 days.

  On 3 May, 3 pairs of climbers set off and established an assault camp at 7000m. Later that day a storm closed in and forced all those on the mountain to remain in their tents for 48 hours. Mike Trueman reported 2m of snow had fallen at C4 and the summit attempt was again in doubt. However a fine spell followed and 5 members of the team, Brian Tilley, Mark Samuels, Rod Runn, Steve Wilson and Glyn Sheperd reached the summit on 5th May.

  The retreat became a 72-hour epic. The doctor Helen Robertson was frequently called upon to give advice to extremely tired, and in 2 cases frostbitten victims, as they dragged their way off the mountain, even though she herself was sick and exhausted.


expid: ANN492301
peakid: ANN4
year: 1992
route1: NW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Goo Hwa-Sub
sponsor: 92 Korea Hyundai Motor Company Annapurna IV Expedition
ascent1: 25th
approach: Marshyangdi->Hongde->Sabje Khola
bcdate: 1992-09-01
smtdate: 1992-09-21
smttime: 1340
termdate: 1992-09-25
campsites: BC(01/09,3900m),ABC(01/09,4250m),C1(04/09,5300m),C2(15/09,6000m),C3(19/09,6700m),Smt(21/09)
accidents: None (except snow slide which injured no one)
agency: Universal Trekking Network
routememo:
  C3 on NW Ridge.

  Many crevasses above C1 and much snowfall after C1 pitched. This expedition was first to make the route this season. Summit party left C3 4:30 am, on top 1:40 pm and returned C3 6:30 pm and slept there. Summit party on 21st while going up at 7400m were carried down 200m by snow slide (slab), so no others tried for summit because of this dangerous condition.


expid: ANN492303
peakid: ANN4
year: 1992
route1: NW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Rim Jong-Bum
sponsor: 1992 Autumn Annapurna IV Buddhist Expedition
ascent1: 26th
approach: Sabje Khola
bcdate: 1992-09-13
smtdate: 1992-09-23
smttime: 1730
termdate: 1992-09-27
campsites: BC(13/09,4680m),C1(15/09,5500m),C2(19/09,6330m),Smt(23/09)
accidents: 1 Sherpa with frostbitten toes
agency: Journeys Mountaineering & Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Sabje Khola
  C2 at NW Ridge.

  On summit 5:30 pm: left C2 4 am 22 Sept and bivouac at about 7000m 3 pm in ice cave. 23rd Sept left cave at 3 am and on top at 5:30 pm. Magar down to C2 and other 3 summiters to bivouac at 9:30 pm and slept there. All in C2 on 24th night, slept C1 25th & BC 26th - "very long way."


expid: ANN492304
peakid: ANN4
year: 1992
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Satoshi Ikenuma
sponsor: Japanese Alpine Club Tokai Branch Annapurna IV Expedition
bcdate: 1992-09-16
smtdate: 1992-10-02
termdate: 1992-10-08
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to bad weather
othersmts: Climbed Pisang Peak (Ikenuma, Kato, Kondo and Morimoto)
campsites: BC(16/09,4600m),C1(23/09,5200m),C2(29/09,6000m),C3(02/10,6400m),xxx(03/10,6400m)
accidents: Kato had stomach trouble
agency: Himalayan Journeys
routememo:
  Planned summit bid from C3 at 3 am 4th Oct, but too much wind and snow. Stayed in C3 but 6th Oct still wind too strong and 1 tent at C3 broken by wind so Japanese down to C2 where Sherpas should have stayed in support. But all Sherpas, afraid of wind breaking tent, had gone to BC, so Japanese now also went to BC. 

  No 2nd summit because snowfall so heavy would be snow slides and couldn't trust Sherpas anymore. Korean team (not Rim) had already fixed 3000m all way up route. Japanese gave beer to Korean team. 

  C3 made by Dawa Tshering on 2 Oct, but not slept there; on 3rd Oct Kondo, Ikenuma and Morimoto occupied; on 4th Oct wind so strong that men in C3 could not stand up; 5th Oct with bad weather including much snowfall decided to stop climb.


expid: MAKA88101
peakid: MAKA
year: 1988
route1: W Pillar up; NW Ridge down
nation: France
leaders: Marc Batard
sponsor: Makalu 1988
ascent1: 27th
bcdate: 1988-04-06
smtdate: 1988-04-27
smttime: 0945
campsites: BC(06/04,4950m),C1(12/04,6550m),C2(19/04,7350m),Smt(27/04)
accidents: Ongel Sherpa fell 7-10m in snow when rope broke near C2 but not injured
achievment: 1st 'solo' of W Pillar and 1st solo 1st traverse
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Hillary BC - above (west northwest) of Barun Pokari
  C1 at West Pillar - French '71 C3
  C2 at West Pillar - last snow ridge


  Batard, the only foreigner in his party, had four Nepalis help him make camps in snow caves at 6550m & 7350m on the West Pillar, and to fix 2000m of rope along the pillar from 6000 to 7750m, ending at the last major difficulty. Now tired, Batard descended to BC for a day's rest, then began a solo push for the summit; he left his second cave at 2:30 am on 27th April & was on the top at 9:45 am despite some difficulty with a 50m rock step at 8000m and 100km/hr winds. He descended the normal route in the first traverse of Makalu, found an Italian team's tent at the Makalu La which reassured him he was on the right line, continued down to another empty Italian tent, where he slept the night, then joined Germans at base for breakfast.

  Fixed 200m rope: from 6000m to 7750m; finished rope fixing 24 April at last difficult point. Slept in C2 hoping to go to top on 25th but too tired so down to BC that day. Started up again 2:00 pm 26th and spent an hour at German-Swiss BC and on to start of Pillar at 5900m, where arrived middle of night and slept 2 hours. 27th started 2:30 am up and reached top at 9:45 am; main difficulties end at 7750m but at 8000m is a rock step of 50m which was 4 degree difficulty (i.e., not great difficulty). Above this easy terrain but wind of 100 km/hr sometimes before reaching rock step at about 8:00 am. Stayed at summit 5-6 minutes and found big oxygen bottles (yellow) and left red flag on which wrote his name, date and time tied to oxygen bottle. Descended via a small couloir to Makalu Col, where Italians had a tent; was very very happy to see tent because feared he was lost; reached empty tent at 2:15 pm and on to Italians and Germans: empty C2 at 7000m; stayed in an Italian tent and slept till 28th morning because very tired and light snowfall that night. Left tent and followed Italian flags from early morning and arrive German BC at glacier junction at 9:00 am. Ate with Germans and then with Italians left. No frostbite or illness; face sunburned while descending couloir and from Col under hot sun and with ice in his short beard.

  Ongel Sherpa and Iman Gurung carried ropes for Batard to fix - carried to 7500m and Gurung climbed to 7750m on 24th. Then they down to BC and Ongel up with Batard on 26th to 5900m only.

  Batard saw no other person on mountain from his departure from depot on 26th till he arrived at Germans and Italians BC on 28th morning. No Germans or Italians were in their higher camps when he came down through them. (He used an Italian sleeping bag to sleep in 27th night because he had no bag with him.)

  Happy about his success? "very nice". Was sure he would reach summit alone when he left Ongel at 5900m: "I like to climb rock and I know at altitude I can climb quickly. "I was very sure when I had put up C1 and C2 and it was not difficult for me."


  Batard - 14 June 88

  Batard considers his climb of Makalu last month a solo ascent because he climbed this mountain all alone after having fixed ropes with helpers and descended with them to BC.


  Messner & Joos - 16 May 88

  Batard's ascent of Makalu: First traverse of Makalu but it is not a solo ascent when others climbed with him preparing the route and he descended a prepared route. "A great thing anyway - my congratulations to him" says Joos. "He is very strong." "It was the first traverse of Makalu and in a very good style" says Messner, but not a solo climb.


  Carlos Buhler - 17 May 88

  "I'm impressed - very much impressed" if he really went up West Pillar as Batard says he did - an extremely difficult route.


  Loretan - 5 May 88

  Marc Batard's ascent of Makalu this spring was not a solo ascent - had had help fixing rope and pitching camps.


  Hupfauers - 29 May 88 (Makalu)

  Mrs Hupfauer saw Batard up Pillar to 6000m then clouds obscured view. Sure he went to Pillar, where had fixed ropes. Next seen when he descended to Germans BC. Not a solo ascent.


  From Tourism Minishtry, 2 May 88
  Re: Report of Makalu I by Marc Batard

  I left the BC on April 26th at 2 pm and I stopped for one hour at the BC of the German/Swiss Expeditions. I reached my C2 (altitude 7350m) at midnight I slept for two hours and left for the assault at 2 am. I reached the top at 7:45 am on April 27th. I stayed at the summit for 15 minutes. I planted a flag (in a simple piece of red cloth) after having written on it my name date and hour. I fixed this flag at the top of an oxygen bottle which was empty and lying there.

  The weather started to be rough and the descent was therefore made painful although I had to decide to follow the normal route. During my descent the very strong wind persisted and I reached C2 of the German/Swiss & Italian expeditions (altitude 7000m approx) at 3 pm. This camp was empty I took the liberty in going to sleep in one of the 3 tents and left the sleeping bag inside which I had used.

  On 28th April I left this camp in the early morning to reach the German/Swiss & Italian BC at 9 am approx. I had a very cordial [reception] there and left after lunch at around 1 pm. Two hours later I reached my own BC and I was happy to meet again all 5 members of my staff.

  I left my BC on 29th April at 6 am and arrived at Tashigaon at 7 pm the same day (a long walk). Again on 30th I left that place on 6 am to reach Tumlingtar approx at 8 pm the same day. During [at?] Khandbari I met the liaison officer whom I told that I had reached the summit succesfully on April 27th.
   
  I was back in Kathmandu on May 1st (by RNAC plane). I shall be staying at Sherpa Hotel until Friday 6th.


expid: MAKA88103
peakid: MAKA
year: 1988
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: W Germany
leaders: Sigi Hupfauer
sponsor: German Makalu Expedition 1988
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 1988-04-13
smtdate: 1988-05-08
termdate: 1988-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(13/04,5350m),C1(16/04,6050m),C2(21/04,6800m),C3(30/04,7400m),C4(08/05,7800m),xxx(08/05,7800m)
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC at moraine of Chago Glacier just north of glacier's junction
  C1 at start of Chago Glacier on rocks in center
  C2 at start of steep section below Makalu La
  C3 at Makalu La
  C4 on NW Ridge
  High point at C4.

  [6 May entire team plus two Sherpas set out from BC to C2 for first summit attempt. Next day Deuber and Joos stopped bid because too cold, while rest of team continued to C3. 8 May to C4 at 7800m while two Sherpas descended to C2 [not strong enough]. That night high winds damaged C4 tents.] 9th May all down to BC. 

  3 days snow and wind fierce storm. Blew over BC mess tent. 15th May 4 members and 2 Sherpas up to C2. 16th May Dacher down to BC exhausted and later same day Dujmovits down ill. 17th May 2 Hupfauers and 2 Sherpas up from C2. Gaby Hupfauer turned back at 7100m and others at 7250m when Sherpas not so strong; no summit for them. All in BC 17th May and climb finished. Weather bad (snow and wind) and more storms coming. Team left BC 21 May. 

  Although Swiss had separate equipment, they did climb together with Germans and 2 Swiss; Graf and Weber pitched C4 together at 7800m.

  When Italians left BC 6th May Germans were going for summit attempt.

  Swiss return KTM this week, go to Karakoram.
  Germans have more time, leave Nepal 2nd June.


  Giacomelli - 15 March

  Germans and Swiss separate teams using different styles:

  Germans establish series of camps, will use Italians C4 at 7800m.
  Norbert Joos to try summit alpine style, up to C2, down, up to C4, down.


expid: MAKA88102
peakid: MAKA
year: 1988
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Savio Giacomelli
sponsor: Valcamonica Expedition to Makalu
bcdate: 1988-04-07
smtdate: 1988-05-03
termdate: 1988-05-06
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to lack of time (fixed end date)
campsites: BC(07/04,5400m),C1(12/04,6000m),C2(22/04,6800m),C3(25/04,7400m),C4(02/05,7800m),xxx(03/05,8300m)
accidents: Ducoli frostbitten fingers and toes (will lose a little of toe); Giacomelli altitude sickness
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC above junction of glacier (Messner camp)
  C1 above icefall
  C2 at bottom of couloir below Makalu La
  C3 at Makalu La
  C4 below couloir on last steep slope.

  Left BC 29th April to C2, 30th to C3; 1st May [Ducoli, Bonali, Guzza and Lhakpa Gyalzen] tried direct for top and got to 8150m; too late, returned to C3. 2nd May made C4 [at 7800m] for 2nd attempt, Lhakpa Gyalzen then descended to C3.

  3rd May Ducoli, Bonali and Guzza tried for summit and reached 8300m, when fog and fresh snow preventing seeing where to go. 4th May Guzza to BC, while Bonali waited in C3 for Ducoli solo attempt from C4; he reached only 7900-8000m on 4th May, too tired and gave up, down to C3. 5th May Bonali and Ducoli to BC. All to BC 5th May and left BC 6th May. No more climbing. 

  These men were team's strongest and needed few day's rest and all had to return to homes and jobs. This first time in Himalaya for all members and they learned a lot.


expid: KANG88101
peakid: KANG
year: 1988
route1: N Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Carlos Buhler
sponsor: 1988 American Kangchenjunga Expedition
ascent1: 25th
countries: Austria, Spain
bcdate: 1988-04-03
smtdate: 1988-05-03
smttime: 0930
campsites: BC(03/04,5000m),C1(08/04,5800m),C2(20/04,6400m),C3(01/05,7300m),C4(02/05,7600m),Smt(03/05)
achievment: 1st American ascent
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC at Pangpema in normal site
  C1 at big level glacier (Doug Scott's C2)
  C3 on North Ridge
  C4 just below ridge on snow slope/plateau.

  A very challenging climb: Habeler said it the hardest climb he's ever done. Very long route by way of ridge near Col. Hit by big snowstorm night of 3rd which turned into epic descent. Habeler on top 9:30 am whereas other 2 at 2:00 pm after all having left C4 together at 4:00 am. Habeler very quick at altitude, got back to C4: Habeler about noon or 1:00 pm other 2 at 9:00 pm. Snowstorm started 10:00 am that day; it was obvious weather was changing. Scott 1979 route from N Ridge, Messner's route to ridge. Storm of 3 and 4 May dropped meter of snow and took out C2 and C3, hit Sherpas in C3, who took 12 hours to C1 (1-1/2 to 2 hour trip normally) without crampons. Summiters slept 3 May in C4, took camp down and put it up again at C3 site. On 5th summiters left everything knowing must get to C1 in severe avalanche conditions and end of their strength. Martin descended behind other 2. Final section on ridge was very tricky with windslab. Both Habeler and Zabaleta had bad pneumonia and high fevers when reached C1-BC on 6th May but no frostbite. Buhler's toes frozen on summit but will not lose any bone. Timing was lucky: if had gone to C3 on 3rd, would have been swept off: if had tried for top one day later would never have made summit and would not have been able to get off the mountains stranded as on K2 in 1986.

  Habeler - 22 May 1988: Note pneumonia. Habeler's problem probably spindrift snow in lungs; Zabaleta very bad sore throat. Habeler left Austria and Lufthansa flags at summit tied to an aluminum pole.

  Note: February 2012

  Carlos Buhler says that oxygen was used at BC by Habeler and Zabaleta the next day after descending from the summit [to treat pnuemonia resulting from the climb]. Original notes by Hawley state that oxygen was used by Habeler and Zabaleta on descent at C1 because of pneumonia and again by Habeler at BC.


  1988 International Kangchenjunga Expedition Report by Carlos Buhler

  Kangchenjunga's North Face rises two vertical miles in one sweep of overlapping cliffs, rock faces and hanging glaciers. It is a masterpiece of nature's architecture, designed to discourage climbers from attempting to reach the summit from this side. Although technically possible routes exist, every conceivable line at some point is exposed to serious rockfall, falling ice or avalanches.

  Our 15 day appraoch to BC went smoothly. As the approach to this area had been closed to all but climbing expeditions, the encroachment of Western civilization had been minimal and the villages were unchanged by modern tourism.

  We established BC on April 3 at Pangpema, a tranquil, pastoral field alongside the Kangchenjunga Glacier. Over the next three weeks, the weather permitted only three constructive trips beyond this 5000 meter camp. During short good weather spells, we placed C1 and and C2 at 5800m and 6400m. Towards the end of April, a ferocious storm confined us to BC for six days. Late on the 26th, the weather finally cleared. Peter, Martin and I, accompanied by Nima and Dawa, our two Sherpa companions, set out for C1 early the next morning. We wondered how long the good weather would last. On the 28th, we climed through the dangerous ice cliffs and continued to C2. With the help of the Basques, who came up a day behind us, we spent April 29 and 30 climbing and fixing 300m of 7mm rope on the steep ice and rock flanks leading to the north ridge.

  On May 1, we carried all our equipment for the next five days. We climbed and fixed the remaining 200m face and continued, unroped, up the exposed north ridge to sleep at 7150m. The next day, we fixed a final 100m through the rock step at 7300m and carried on to 7450m on the huge plateau below the summit pyramid. Nima and Dawa then descended to C2 the same afternoon. That night there were signs that the good weather was ending. The winds that had been coming steadily from the east began to blow again from the southwest.

  Nevertheless, at four am on May 3, we left for the summit in frigid darkness. We reached the rock walls of the vast summit cone as dawn was breaking. Though together at first, each of us now climbed alone in a private world of struggle. I went through a tremendous range of emotion. At times I found myself elated to be so near the summit of such a huge mountain. Then I became utterly discouraged at the situation in front of me. I was frightened by the steepness, by the intense cold drilling into me and, most of all, by the descent that would have to follow. There seemed to be so many places that I could make a fatal mistake. Waves of anxiety swept over me. I could only break away from them when I pushed on with the intense activity of climbing. I passed a tattered, frozen in rope that the 1980 Japanese expedition must have placed over the short rock steps. I recalled their placing 250m of line through the gully to safeguard their descent. I felt insecure and exposed. After the rock step I stopped and removed the 20m coil of 6 mm line I had been carrying. It seemed absurd to lug it further as Martin and Peter were both above me. I did the same with my open spare mitten. I wanted to leave behind every ounce I could. Only water, a small piece of sausage and my short ice axe remained in my rucksack.

  Peter called upon all his strength and set a fantastic pace. He reached the summit at 9:30 am. Martin and I were still four and half hours away. As we feared, at ten am snow began to fall and visibility dwindled. We crossed paths with Peter at 10:30 while the snow fell steadily. All three of us discussed options on the steep ramps of snow. "Ahora o nunca!" we decided. Now or never! It was unlikely that Martin and I would ever be this close again.

  We climbed the final, delicate 100m of the West Ridge in the growing storm. There was no view at all. The terrain was steep and unforgiving. We followed endless traverses around granite buttresses, up 50-degree snow slopes and into windy corners. The blowing nearly blinded us as it built up inside our goggles. At two pm, I climbed over a broken, blocky step to the summit, too cold to feel elation. I took ten quick photographs at different apertures as Martin came up the last several meters. After 30 seconds, we started down. A half-buried oxygen bottle a few meters from the top reminded me of what I needed most.

  We were desperate to get out of the wind that tore across from the south. As soon as we dropped below the ridge and onto the North Face, I asked Martin to stop and help warm my feet. Then we continued on. The descent from the summit to our tent at 7450m took us seven hours in the heavily falling snow.

  At nine pm we caught sight of the lit up dome of the tent through the swirling winds. In a few minutes we were pulling off our frozen boots between bouts of hacking coughs. Peter radioed to BC of our arrival and helped us prepare a hot drink. The relief we felt was indescribable, but it was not to last long. All night it kept on snowing.

  Nearly a meter of snow had fallen by the next morning when we resumed the descent. Laden with gear from the camp, we plowed across the broad, exhausting plateau. 

  At six Am leaving everything but film and cameras, we began the treacherous and terrifying descent over the snow caked slabs of the north ridge. Traversing and down climbing, we wove our way through the unstable windslabs. Doubt and uncertainty dogged every step. We were at the mercy of the gods. We were asking too much.

  After an eternity, we reached the fixed ropes leading down the icy flanks towards C2. Below them, we had to fight our way across hundreds of meters of knee-deep snow before the next blow. The well stocked tents of C2 had also been swept away! Without recourse, we struggled down the dangerous slopes towards C1. On the glacier at 6000m we managed only short distances before collapsing in the snow to regain strength. This was the most gruelling test of endurance any of us had ever experienced.

  Lhakpa met us just above C1 with water and the news that Nima and Dawa had been seriously injured when their tent at C2 had been swept 300m down the face by two consecutive snow slides on the night of May 3. Though they had survived the fall, they spent twelve hours fighting their way down without equipment, both with broken ribs. Dawa had suffered so severe a concussion that he had no realization that he was on a mountain and believed he was in a lowland village. He had not eaten or drunk substanially in forty hours. They were still in C1, unable to gather the strength to return to BC.

  On May 6, nine days after setting off, a weak and battered crew staggered into the cheering voices and comforting hugs of friends in BC. The Basques had seen the storm coming on May 3 as they neared their final biv at 7450m and had descended to safety the same day. Although they made two further attempts, neither they nor the Indian expedition on the southwest side managed to reach the summit. Tragically, the deputy leader of the Indians died, supporting a bid for the top in late May.

  We came away from our success with humility coupled with deep satisfaction. In an endeavour where boldness and commitment are highly rewarded, we asked ourselves, to what extent could the hazards be ultimately controlled?

accidents:
  2 Sherpas broke ribs when avalanche hit C2 on night of May 3; Buhler frostbite; Habeler and Zabaleta illness


expid: KANG88102
peakid: KANG
year: 1988
route1: N Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Felipe Uriarte Camara
sponsor: Kangchenjunga Basque Expedition
bcdate: 1988-04-06
smtdate: 1988-05-20
termdate: 1988-05-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to bad weather and exhaustion
campsites: BC(06/04,5000m),C1(08/04,5640m),C2(20/04,6400m),C3(02/05,7300m),C4(20/05,7800m),xxx(20/05,7800m)
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  BC near US-Australian-Spanish BC
  C2 at same crevasse as
  C3 at same place as above North Col ridge and before rock 
  C4 near Scott's - on face 100-150m from Ridge.

  Members "very strong people" and stayed till last moment but a little tired "at end." 3 May tried to reach C4 site but reached only 7600m and weather getting bad and decided to go down in expectation of bad snowstorm (same day US, etc to top). Arrive 10 May C2 where tent has been destroyed by avalanche so dangerous ice cave because no tent left. 13 May start up from C2 but again heavy snowfall and again down to BC same day. 17th all 4 up to C1, 18th C2, 19th C3 (in April's 10 minutes now 3 hours and to ascend). 20th made C4 and snow began again and snowed all night. Took only 2 sleeping bags and little food, planning to stay only few hours before going for top, but had to spend two days there cramped in small tent in strong wind. 22 May Felipe and Zuloaga down while Xabier and Oiarzabal stayed few hours more, then they also down to C1 and BC 23rd. 

  26 May Oiarzabal and Zuloaga left for KTM and 27 May Xabier and Felipe to C1. Very tired so rest in C1 with US-Australia food and big storm, lightning and snow, next day very hot. Now still tired and decided perhaps could get to top, but descent questionable so decide to quit and down on 29th.


expid: KANG88103
peakid: KANG
year: 1988
route1: SW Face
nation: India
leaders: Vasant Limaye
sponsor: Indian Kangchenjunga Spring 1988
bcdate: 1988-03-24
smtdate: 1988-04-15
termdate: 1988-05-15
termnote: Abandoned at 8450m due to lack of enough strong climbers
accidents: Death of Sanjay Borole due to hypothermia and exhaustion
achievment: 1st Indian civilians above 8000m
agency: Lamjung
campsites:
  BC(24/03,5550m),C1(08/04,5975m),C2(11/04,6240m),C3(25/04,6400m),C4(27/04,7225m),C5(09/05,7715m),C6(11/05,8050m),xxx(15/05,8450m)

routememo:
  BC at Yalung Glacier normal site
  C1 above Icefall via Korean route
  C2 above rocky section before SW Face
  C3 on SW Face after crossing big snow basin
  C4 on face
  C5 on face
  C6 on face
  High point at Col.

  Made a lot of camps because India's only 8000er Kangchenjunga is forbidden to civilians for security reasons and no members had been so high before. Made 2 summit bids on 13 and 15 May from C6. 

  1st summit party got to about 8100m and turned back because [Joshi] becoming frostbitten [and due to bad weather]. 

  2nd summit party reached Col between Yalung Kang and main summit (to col after realized could not get all the way to top). 2nd party turned back from Col after reaching their new goal at 8450m, which had been set when frostbite would preclude ascent to summit. Kolwankar's feet especially bad. 

  1st party - Charuhas Joshi, Ang Kami and Nima Dorje
              (only Joshi got frostbite both hands but one hand much better)
  2nd party - Kolwankar, Dawa Sherpa (sirdar) and Nima Tamang
              (Kolwankar only serious frostbite, had to be carried from BC)

  Borole died 17 May from exhaustion and hypothermia. He was in C4 when condition became serious and died a bit above C2 while being helped to descend because of exhaustion; in descent hypothermia complicated his condition.

  Oxygen used: Kolwankar at C6 on descent; others used little in C5, C6 and climbing but not found useful and discontinued.

  * 9 Nepalese above BC


expid: MAKA88104
peakid: MAKA
year: 1988
route1: W Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Erhard Loretan
sponsor: Swiss Makalu W Face Expedition 1988
approach: Nun
termnote: Did not reach BC
accidents: Troillet broken leg on approach
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Team never reached BC. 

  Troillet slipped on approach march on loose stone while between Sedua and Nun broke two bones in his left ankle; helicoptered to Kathmandu on 29 April while Loretan would sell Nepalese food supplies and return via Tumlingtar flight. Loretan returned to Kathmandu on 2 May.


expid: AMAD88101
peakid: AMAD
year: 1988
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Peter Hill
sponsor: British Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 1988-03-22
smtdate: 1988-04-10
termnote: Abandoned at 5770m bad conditions and low supplies
campsites: BC(22/03,4620m),ABC(26/03,5100m),C1(05/04,5700m),xxx(10/04,5770m),xxx(10/04,5770m)
accidents: Hill cracked ribs; Hewitt altitude sickness
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC  at east side of Mingbo near helipad
  ABC at start of long trudge up to the ridge
  C1  at start of main difficulties on the ridge
  High point on the ridge half-way to Col.

  28 March Hill caught in rockfall which cracked ribs and put him out action; stayed a night at ABC and next day struggled to BC. Hewitt developed altitude sickness late March; tried 4 times to get to C1 and each time got altitude sickness so descended to BC and did no more climbing. Fully established at C1 about 10 April but rock pretty loose so hard going. Then heavy snowfall and conditions bad. Bradshaw and Walker started up on 10 April towards C2 but met Canadians coming down, learned of fatal fall and of unstable conditions above. Also food supplies at C1 were running low. Few days later, snowed every day and would actually not have gotten much further.


expid: AMAD88102
peakid: AMAD
year: 1988
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Stephen Robert Langley
sponsor: Canadian Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: USA
bcdate: 1988-03-23
smtdate: 1988-04-15
termdate: 1988-04-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6520m due to avalanching
campsites: BC(25/03,4900m),C1(29/03,5760m),C2A(03/04,5940m),C2B(06/04,6000m),C3(14/04,6300m),xxx(15/04,6520m)
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC  at 100 ft lower then US women's site - near yak
  C1  at 5760m at higher of normal C1 site
  C2A on small hanging glacier
  C2B at 6000m top of red tower
  C3  at 6300m at traditional site
  High point just below huge hanging glacier.

  Everything going very well in early days. 9th April all 6 members in 2nd C2 and carried 1st load to C3 beyond mushrooms and all other major hurdles and at foot of 45-degree slope; feeling tremendously optimistic. Eckenfelder and Langley carried the load and fixed an ice step. During their descent from C3 site accident occurred. Eckenfelder while going up had knocked down some rocks which must have cut rope; Eckenfelder in front coming down the Perlon 8 mm: presumably he went round a corner and his weight at a place where ropes was 80% cut caused complete break. No one saw him fall but body seen 500-600 ft below; when a member reached it, head had been completely severed and death must have been instantaneous (at 4:00 pm). Snowing now and all next day and body became covered so team never returned to it, it is 500 ft off of route. On 11th all down from C2 to BC with plan Dickey and Langley would resume climb. 

  13th Dickey and Langley went from BC to C2 and fixed new ropes around C2 and to C3. 14th to C3. 15th did recce crevasses and fixed ropes but avalanching dangerous and decided to abandon; reached BC after dark. Snowfall continued daily after left BC on 17th.

  A body found by UK-US expedition in April 1989 in the couloir between C2 and C3 below the Gap, before start of 1st step - completely exposed, looking very fresh (snow had preserved him?).


expid: BARU88102
peakid: BARU
year: 1988
route1: N Ridge from E
nation: USA
leaders: James Brug
sponsor: American Baruntse Expedition
approach: Arun Valley->Shipton La
bcdate: 1988-04-25
smtdate: 1988-05-07
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to lack of time and lack of fixed rope
campsites: BC(25/04,5000m),C1(28/04,5200m),C2(30/04,5400m),C3(02/05,5500m),C4(05/05,6200m),xxx(07/05,6500m)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Sherpa Cooperative Trekking (SCT)
routememo:
  BC at Hillary BC above Barun Pokhari (same as Batard's West pillar BC this spring)
  C1 just below Makalu BC's on glaciers juncture
  C2 east of point 6220m at glacier
  C3 below some icefalls (south of ridge running east of point 6667m)
  C4 just below col
  High point on ridge above Col.

  Had problems getting loads up rock glacier and had several intermediate camps in this process. On 7th May got at 80-degree ice above C4, then mostly ice with snow over loose rocks where found thick blue fixed rope (mostly buried) from earlier expedition. Again difficult steep ice and now saw were well below where steepness eased off and gave up. Had fixed then only available ropes and not enough rope now to fix route above or enough time to climb without it.


expid: BARU88101
peakid: BARU
year: 1988
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: John Finnigan
sponsor: Australian Baruntse Expedition 1988
countries: New Zealand, UK, USA
bcdate: 1988-04-20
smtdate: 1988-05-10
termdate: 1988-05-17
termnote: Abandoned at 7070m due to bad snow conditions
othersmts: 1 minor peak
campsites: BC(20/04,5200m),ABC(22/04,5500),C2(28/04,6250m),C3(01/05,6300m),C4(08/05,6830m),xxx(10-13/05,7070m)
accidents: Finnigan exhaustion at end (collapsed trying to descend to BC)
achievment: 1st Australian attempt
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  BC at Hunku Drangka at river fork near "D" of Drangka
  ABC/C1 at west side of lake south of Hunku Glacier "K" 
  C2 above headwall above West Col
  C3 at flat area north of West Col
  C4 at start of summit ridge
  High point on SE Ridge.

  Porters turned back and only 18 left to cross Mera La which meant triple carries to BC. Took one week out of climbing time and perhaps could have fixed summit ridge if had had this extra week's time. Made BC much lower than had wanted; only permanent fixed rope was 600 ft on head wall to West Col. 

  10th May 4 members made first summit attempt and reached 23,200 ft and were stopped by wall with soft steep snow. Would start up and slide back tried for long time trying to cross this 100 ft of snow in several ways; back to C4. 11th Hodge and Hooy to C1 and Finnigan on the 12th and Steffen on 13th. 

  Lane, Baldwin, Ongchu Lama and Bir Bahadur Tamang on 13th made second summit attempt and got to place with same problem and same results. 2 Nepalis to C1 same time while 2 Aussies down next day after abandoning idea of going for secondary snow peak. 

  3rd attempt by Hodge and Hooy: got to C2 14th and stayed there 3 nights, defeated by drifting deep snow; went to C3 but back same day.


expid: CHAM88101
peakid: CHAM
year: 1988
route1: N Face-NE Ridge-E Summit
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Frederike Bloemers
sponsor: Rosta Women's Expedition 1988
ascent1: 2nd,3rd of E Summit
approach: Arun Valley->just before Shershon
bcdate: 1988-04-17
smtdate: 1988-05-10
campsites: BC(17/04,4850m),ABC(20/04,5465m),C1(22/04,5750m),C2(29/04,6130m),C3(09/05,6720m),E-Smt(10-11/05)
accidents: None
achievment: 1st women to East Summit
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  BC  on north side Lower Barun Glacier just below icefall
  ABC at top of icefall
  C1  on East Couloir of Chamlang and Lower Barun Glaciers
  C2  on North Face (north of "g" of Chamlang mt) at bergschrund
  C3  on shoulder of North Face (halfway between point 6705m and "g").

  Climb was very hard: between BC and ABC daily avalanching danger; between ABC and C1 crevasses and face was very hard steep ice with very little snow. Fixed 350m rope total; had not intended to fix much rope; used all their ice material and no snow material at all. C1 tent completely destroyed by stone avalanching but no one injured and another tent there blown away. Went to East Summit which is 10 km from Main Summit. Found equipment from Doug Scott's expedition. Route was mostly same as Scott's Spring 1984 except for section of big crevasses on face. 

  First Dutch women's expedition to anywhere outside Europe.

  Doctor (Boom) went to C2 only because not so technically skilled as other 5 and came only as doctor. 


  Gerda de Groene (by email) - June 2005

  On our expedition to the Chamlang we had only oxygen for emergency purposes and luckily we didn't have to use it. Three of us succeeded to reach the east summit (7290m) on May 10th, and two of us a day later on the 11th. On the 12th the Monsoon started, so we were just in time.


expid: KUSU88101
peakid: KUSU
year: 1988
route1: NE Ridge-N Smt
route2: N Face
nation: Czechoslovakia
leaders: Jan Krajcik
sponsor: Kusum Kanguru-Spring 1988
countries: UK
bcdate: 1988-04-10
smtdate: 1988-04-23
termdate: 1988-04-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to lack of time
campsites: BC(10/04,4374m),Biv(15/04,4800m),xxx(23/04,6300m)
accidents: All had viruses
routememo:
  BC  at terminal moraine of Kyashar Glacier
  1st biv at plateau on west side of glacier above as river on Schneider map  
      running North into Kyashar Glacier
  High point at a north summit.

  Stayed at BC with virus infection for few days. 15th made bivouac at 4800m, a walk from BC, then from there tried NE Ridge; they weren't well acclimatized and descended; back at BC 17th April. Decided to put camp not far from biv site and it was pitched on 19th at about 4800m. Another attempt on NE Ridge on 20 April by same 2 men and reached subsidiary summit and took 3 days to do so in series of 3 bivs on ridge to 6300m North summit before descending safely to BC 24 April. 

  Other 3 climbers then moved up from BC on 26 April and gave face a day to clear of avalanches and on up on 27th evening to a biv at about 17,000 ft and at midnight 27/28 and reached 19,000 ft, where one Czech unwell and all turned back. Were on N Face. Now Czechs had to go home, so climbing finished.


  Krajcik - 12 May 88

  Team arrived at BC 10 April 1988 and left BC 30 April.
  2 who tried N Face via left buttress were Netri and Rehacek.
  3 on central couloir were Krajcik, Harding-Roberts and Torok.
  5 climbers only.
  Would like to return to couloir route.


expid: LSHR88101
peakid: LSHR
year: 1988
route1: S Ridge-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Mari Abrego Santesteban
sponsor: Agni Lhotse Shar Expedition Himalaya 1988
bcdate: 1988-04-02
smtdate: 1988-05-12
termdate: 1988-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(02/04,5200m),C1(07/04,5700m),C2(27/04,6200m),C3(04/05,6800m),C4(12/05,7300m),xxx(12/05,7400m)
accidents: None
agency: Nepal Himalaya
routememo:
  BC southeast of Island Peak
  C1 at col between Island Peak and Lhotse Shar
  C2 on South Ridge
  C3 on South Ridge
  C4 on SE Ridge
  High point at SE Ridge site for C4.

  Long delay making C2 because much bad weather (snow and wind) and 50m before C2 site big (8-10m wide) crevasse. 2 now reached site for C4 at 7400m on 12 May but slept only at 7200m, where no avalanche problem (at 7400m clouded in and could not see area properly). After 2 nights at 7200m down to BC because again snow and wind. 16 May Casimiro and Abrego towards C3, bad weather and down again 19 May. Climb finished because of constant snow and wind and difficult steep ice.


expid: CHOY88102
peakid: CHOY
year: 1988
route1: W Ridge-W Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: John Kimber
sponsor: Cho Oyu Swiss Expedition 1988
bcdate: 1988-04-07
smtdate: 1988-04-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to lack of supplies and food
accidents: None serious except one bad sinusitis.
agency: Yeti Mountaineering & Trekking
campsites:
  BC(07/04,5000m),Dep(13/04,5200m),C1(19/04,5700m),C2.ABC(21/04,6000m),C3(23/04,6600m),C4(25/04,7100m),xxx(29-30/04,7600m)

routememo:
  BC at end of third to Dzsampa on Schneider map (actually just below Kangchung)
  C1 at Nangpa La
  C2 at same as spring 1986 Polish-Swiss-Austrian route
  C3 on Polish-Swiss Austrian route
  C4 on West Face on Polish-Swiss-Austrian route.

  3 climbing members climbed together the whole time; twice "walked" up to 7600m from C4 and twice dropped back to C4: first day to have a look at terrain and 2nd because had no food with them from C4 (porters had been expected to carry up food and equipment from C3 to C4 to final camp to be established but they never appeared) and no equipment for E Summit camp and summit push. Very little food and fuel in C4 by now, so called off the climb. Stayed in C4 2 nights hoping Sherpas would come but they did not: said 1000 Chinese soldiers were in area and coming to seize expeditions; were afraid of Chinese and had dismantled ABC. All 6 Sherpas complained of headache and stomach trouble but same day dismantled 2 camps. Sirdar was incompetent as leader of men and another Sherpa, Mingma Norbu of Kharikhola wasn't knowledgeable of Cho Oyu, knew nothing and organized retreat of Sherpas.

  Successful in making a film.


  Handle - 24 April 1988

  Following Messner route. Expect summit 27-28 April and return KTM about 5 May - but have time to wait. 

  Duvoisin has serious sinus trouble so left expedition and goes home 27 April. All others are well. Expedition kept a room at Ambassador Hotel.


expid: CHOY88105
peakid: CHOY
year: 1988
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: USA
leaders: Keith Brown
sponsor: American-Australian Cho Oyu Swiss Spring 1988
countries: Australia
bcdate: 1988-04-27
smtdate: 1988-05-08
termdate: 1988-05-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to bad weather
accidents: None
campsites:
  BC(27/04,5700m),C1(01/05,6200m),C2(02/05,6700m),C3(05/05,7000m),C4(06/05,7200m),C5(07/05,7450m),C6(08/05,7600m),xxx(08/05,7600m)

routememo:
  8th May Harkin & Brown turned back when Harkin's crampon broke. 12 May Brown attempted solo ascent, but got no higher than C2 because of bad weather.


  Viktor Groselj, Yugoslav Cho Oyu - 29 Nov 88

  Keith Brown and 1 other American made unsuccessful attempt on Cho Oyu, reached somewhere below 7000m (below C3). Were on mountain when Woerner (Swiss-German expedition) died and abandoned climb.


  Schmatz, German-Cho Oyu - 23 May 88

  US-Australian Cho Oyu

  C1 was 6700m. Brown tried solo ascent from BC on 12 May but got no higher than C2.
  No accidents, etc
  No Sherpas or oxygen
  Team was on Cho Oyu at same time as Germans and C2's in same place.

  Were ahead of Germans but moving slowly.
  3rd member never reached BC had made at least C3 at 7000m


expid: CHOY88104
peakid: CHOY
year: 1988
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: W Germany
leaders: Gerhard Schmatz
sponsor: German-Swiss Cho Oyu Spring 1988
ascent1: 45th,46th
countries: Switzerland
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->Kyetrak (Chinese BC) & BC
bcdate: 1988-04-20
smtdate: 1988-05-10
smttime: 1500
campsites: BC(20/04,5400m),C1(25/04,6300m),C2(27/04,6700m),C3(09/05,7350m),Smt(10-11/05)
accidents: Woerner stranded at C3 with AMS
routememo:
  BC at 5400m road - on main trading route from Tingri across Nangpa La to Khumbu
  C1 at 6300m south of point 6446m
  C2 at 6700m at just below icefall
  C3 just below yellow band.

  Left C3 at 8:00 am Chinese time. Engl, Schmatz, Zembsch at 8:15 and Woerner at 8:30. Engl and Schmatz on top at 3:00 pm; Zembsch turned back after 1 hr because thumbs freezing and half-way Woerner turned back sometime later (late morning) but 1st 2 didn't realize it. Engl and Schmatz returned to C3 at 6:00-6:15pm and found other 2 there and Woerner said his problem was hyperventilation that night. Strong winds that night and very cold next morning. 

  Zembsch not willing to go up but Woerner started making tea. Woerner started up on 11th at 9am alone while Engl and Schmatz got ready to go down. Engl from C2 saw Woerner at yellow band 12:30-1:00 pm and thought Woerner coming down, then thought still going up; Engl and Schmatz down to C2 while Zembsch awaited Woerner at C3. From C2 Engl saw Woerner going slowly up last ice field. Woerner reached top 6:00 pm and back to C3 at 10:30 pm in dark and seemed normal. 12th morning Woerner's speech irrational and was unable to get up to put on boots. Zembsch left him at 3 pm to get help; reached BC 13th (where Engl and Schmatz were) at 10:00 pm. Zembsch took oxygen, etc up on 14th morning but could reach only 6500m because 30-40 cm snowfall, avalanche danger, couldn't see and back to BC. 15-16th bad weather. 17th Engl up but only to 6700m because of storm and slept in C2 and back to BC noon 18th. [Woerner stranded and not rescued.] Yak men had come 17th evening to clean BC so we had to start on 18th and we took down tent and at 10:30 evening reached Chinese BC at Kyatrak. Goods at deposit at 5850m and BC at 5400m looted.

  Woerner had helped two Britons when they were badly confused by high altitude. He was determined to go to summit himself as good for his expedition-organizing business.


  Guenther Haerter (also on Cho Oyu) - 11 June 88

  Members of Haerter's expedition found a body in a tent at 7300m - had been told by Tibetans there was a Japanese dead body up there so did not examine it closely but noted clothing and equipment made in Italy and Switzerland. Hood of down jacket was over his head, his face was brown and he appeared to be slumped over his backpack - his crampons and ski poles were neatly placed outside the tent.

  No other tents of his expedition were found - others must have cleared mountain.


expid: CHOY88101
peakid: CHOY
year: 1988
route1: W Ridge-W Face
nation: UK
leaders: Alan Hunt
sponsor: Cho Oyu SW Ridge
ascent1: 42nd
countries: Ireland
bcdate: 1988-04-03
smtdate: 1988-04-30
smttime: 1700
accidents: Altitude sickness (Hunt) and slight frostbite
agency: Atlas
campsites:
  BC(03/04,5400m),BC2(18/04,5400m),ABC(21/04,6000m),C1(24/04,6400m),C2(25/04,6700m),C3(27/04,7100m),C4(29/04,7600m),Smt(30/04)

routememo:
  1st BC at 5400m at Summa Glacier, S of Nangpai Gosum
  2nd BC at 5400m below Nangpa between g+p of Nangpa Glacier on Schneider map
  ABC at 6000m at same site as ABC of 1986 spr Polish-Swiss-Australia
  C1  at top of scree
  C2  below icefall
  C3  above all icefall
  C4  at 7600m at summit slope.

  Had permit for SW Ridge and went up Summa glacier to have look at but rock wall above 7000m looked too difficult as an approach; so crossed col to west and made new base at normal BC site below Nangpa La. 30 Apr two climbers [Sterritt and Morris] set out from C4 with Walsh; Sterrit reached very little higher before altitude sickness sent him back to C4; Morris went on 200-300m more because of altitude making him go very slowly; hoped to go to top on 1 May but in fact descended next day with slight frostbite. Walsh summited on 30 Apr. 

  Alan Hunt failed to acclimatize and went home early. Sirdar also ill from altitude after having gone to C4 quickly (a young Sherpa).

  Team had hoped to ski the mountain, but too much ice so skis not used past ABC.

  LO with expeditions from Tibet normally stay well down and want to know about teams from south only if these present a problem to leaders from north, according to climbers on Cho Oyu at same time as British.


  Schmatz, German Cho Oyu - 23 May 1988

  Stefan Woerner of Germany-Swiss Cho Oyu from Nepal helped 2 British members when they were badly confused by effects of attitude.


expid: CHOY88103
peakid: CHOY
year: 1988
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: Italy
leaders: Oreste Forno
sponsor: Italian Cho Oyu Spring 1988
ascent1: 43rd,44th
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1988-04-14
smtdate: 1988-05-01
smttime: 1600
termdate: 1988-05-12
campsites: BC(14/04,4860m),ABC(20/04,5350m),C1(21/04,6000m),C2(24/04,6500m),C3(30/04,7000m),Smt(01-02/05)
accidents: Forno slight frostbite on left foot; Benzoni and Gianola altitude sickness
routememo:
  ABC at moraine at foot of glacier 
  C1  at 6000m near "a" in Glacier of Gyabrag Glacier on Schneider map
  C2  at 6500m just before the icefall
  C3  at beginning of snow slope.

  Forno climbed from C3 at 1:00 am and on top at 9:00 am in beautiful moonlight and clear but windy weather and back to C3 for that night; then stuck in C3 for another day and night in big snowstorm. Other 2 members went only as high as C2 and skied down from there. Only difficulties are between C2 and C3 where same steep bits and crevasse below and above C3. Left BC 12 May.

  Had intended to ski up and down mountain but yaks did not go as high as expected and 2 members left expedition early (20 April) and could see there was not so much snow. Fewer members to carry loads. Could see could ski up to 7600m only so skied only down from C3. Left skies at C3 on ascent and made no higher camp because not skiing higher.

  May 1 summiters reached summit between 4 pm and 6 pm.

  Italians were separate team from German-Swiss party on same permit; but otherwise a different group with different name, time table, camps and supplies.

  Germans returned in storm on day before De Marchi left BC for KTM (he left on 5 May). Italians to top from C3, last camp in 8 hours and back to C3. Next day to BC. Forno started from C3 in night, went to summit also in 8 hours and returned to camp to descend with 1st party - others may try (except 2 sick men, who went home). Yaks ordered to beat BC on 9 May for Italians departure. German-Swiss party have more time.


  Christine Kopp - Dec 2010 (by email)

  Do you remember I had asked you about the ski descent of Cho Oyu in 1988 with the Oreste Forno expedition? I've now found out that Flavio Spazzadeschi is living not more than 10 km from where I live... Incredible! Just for your information: Flavio confirms that he and Lino Zani did NOT make the first ski descent of Cho Oyu. They took their skis up to about 7000m but then didn't use it to descend ("we were simply too tired, I didn't spend one thought in thinking to use them on our way down..."). Other mountaineers (of course with the permission of Zani and Spazzadeschi) used them to do some skiing, but definitely not a full ski descent.


expid: CHOY88106
peakid: CHOY
year: 1988
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: W Germany
leaders: Guenther Haerter
sponsor: Shisma Pangma/Cho Oyu Tibet Expedition 1988
ascent1: 47th,48th
countries: Austria, Netherlands
approach: From Xixabangma BC by truck same day
bcdate: 1988-05-25
smtdate: 1988-05-30
othersmts: Climbed Xixabangma
campsites: BC(25/05,4850m),Biv1(5300m),Biv2(5900m),Biv3(6600m),Biv4(7300m),Smt(30/05,03/06)
accidents: None
routememo:
  BC  at 15 kms north of Nangpa La (normal site from truck)
  Biv1 towards Nangpa La.

  No fixed camps on Cho Oyu. 21st started up from BC & 6 to top. Started in 3 groups on 3 successive days carrying everything with them. 1st group of 3 went all the way to top from start of 26th May from BC. 2nd group of 9: 8 including Haerter reached 7700m & back in wind on 31st May. 3rd group of 4 from BC 28th May & 3 to top. 5th May all in BC & left BC 6th May. Route really not technically difficult although slightly more so than Xixabangma. 4 members left 31st & 3 on 2 June out of boredom. 

  Team had acclimatized on Xixabangma.


expid: KTEG88101
peakid: KTEG
year: 1988
route1: SE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Koji Murakami
sponsor: Orio Alpine Club Kang-Taiga Expedition 1988
bcdate: 1988-04-06
smtdate: 1988-04-13
termdate: 1988-04-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to snowfall, avalanching, insufficient equipment in alpine-style attempt
campsites: BC(06/04,4900m),Biv1(11/04,5200m),Biv2(12/04,5800m),xxx(13/04,6100m)
accidents: Maeda bad altitude sickness at BC and did no climbing
agency: Dream Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at junction of Hinku Nepal and Hinku Shar Glaciers (porters not going higher)
  Biv 1 at junction of Hinku Nepal and Kangtega Glaciers
  Biv 2 in icefall of Kangtega Glacier
  High point at Kangtega Glacier at near "a" of Kangtega.

  Climbing started 9th April. 11th April 200m ice climbing and then many big crevasses. Each member carried little equipment in alpine-style and encountered 10m crevasse, so turned back and slept at 5200m, 1st biv site. 12th April bad weather began with daily snowfall, so after 5 days gave up. Big avalanches coming down, climb too dangerous.


expid: PUMO88101
peakid: PUMO
year: 1988
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: John Tuckey
sponsor: American Pumori Expedition
ascent1: 34th
bcdate: 1988-04-04
smtdate: 1988-04-18
agency: Sherpa Trekking Service (STS)
campsites:
  BC(04/04,5400m),C1(11/04,5800m),C2(12/04,6100m),C3(13/04,6250m),Bivseries(14-17/04),Biv(18/04,7120m),Smt(18/04)

routememo:
  BC  above Gorak Shep (higher and about 1 and 1/2 minute of it)
  C1  at 5800m on ridge above Kalapattar
  C2  just before horizontal snow ridge on SW Ridge
  C3  at 6250m at east side of the rock towers
  Biv series on ridge
  Biv on ridge in ice cave.

  Both White and Kopal stopped climbing early, both not feeling strong as were other two. White had chest infection and Kopal "burned out" on this mountain, went with sirdar to climb Pokalde. Kopal left BC 14th Apr while others remained at BC.

  4 members started up on 11th Apr, 12th on up individually to start of ice on horizontal ridge while others, too slow and less competent, turned back from the climb after all 4 had established C2 on 12th. 

  13th 2 members (Leibundgut and Tuckey) on up while Kopal and White down. Leibundgut and Tuckey crossed ridge, slept on ledge that night in tent. 14th around the rock, followed the ridge and what altitude reached don't know that night; same for following 2 nights. Had bad fire in tent last night it was used and 17th slept in snow cave at least at 22,000 ft on SW Ridge. 18th to top, took photo before top, continued to true top and more photos. Descended about 150 ft when Leibundgut said dizzy, not well, needed help. Decided to go down E Ridge, which seemed easier with same ropes fixed by Indonesians. Soon Leibundgut completely disoriented re-climbing techniques; darkness soon came and wind blew up (as much as 60 mph). Best to dig in which only Tuckey did and during pause in doing this, Leibundgut was gone and his pack on him gone but ice axe still planted and now very dark. Tuckey slept in ice cave and down to BC on 19th.

  Leibundgut's girl friend and her sister were at BC when Tuckey came back alone.

accidents:
  Tuckey frostbite; White chest infection; both White and Kopal stopped climbing early as both not feeling well; Leibundgut fatal fall


expid: PUMO88102
peakid: PUMO
year: 1988
route1: E(NE) Ridge
nation: Indonesia
leaders: Gunawan
sponsor: Wandari Indonesian Himalayan Expedition
ascent1: 35th
bcdate: 1988-04-06
smtdate: 1988-04-26
smttime: 1800
campsites: BC(06/04,5340m),C1(11/04,6000m),C2(18/04,6500m),Smt(26/04)
achievment: 1st Indonesian ascent of any expedition peak; 1st woman from Indonesia to 7000m
agency: Sherpa Trekking Service (STS)
routememo:
  BC at 5340m near Kalapattar (normal route)
  C1 at 6000m at spur from East Ridge
  C2 on East Ridge.

  After C2 establised, down for rest. 2 summit bids: 

  2 people [Marsana, Senapi] to C2 but felt unfit and stayed in C2. 

  21 April 4 Sherpas and Miss Moeliono went up and reached 7000m but turned back in poor weather, late in day and no more fixed rope. 

  3rd team of 5 left BC 24th April for C1, 25th to C2 and 26th to top. Climb not difficult except night of 25th snowfall so knee-deep snow on summit day; also big crevasse to cross and small icewalls on crevasses' upper side; very cloudy just on Pumori and windy. Left C2 at 9:00 am and on top at 6:00 pm (had expected noon) when clouds cleared suddenly. Returned to C2 at 9:30 pm except Sherpa down to C1 because 1 tent at C2 covered by snow. 

  Gunawan and Djuandi began getting frostbite on summit and during descent but will be Ok; Nangdang Syamsudin very slight frostbite; Sherpas none.

accidents:
  Frostbite only; Gunawan and Djuandi began getting frostbite on summit & during descent but will be OK; Nandang Syamsudin very slight frostbite; Sherpas none


expid: TAWO88101
peakid: TAWO
year: 1988
route1: E Ridge/E Face
nation: UK
leaders: Andrew Black
sponsor: British Tawoche Expedition
bcdate: 1988-04-05
smtdate: 1988-04-15
termdate: 1988-04-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to poor weather, team not strong
campsites: BC(05/04,4900m),Biv1(12/04,5650m),Biv2(13/04,5800m),C3(14/04,6100m),xxx(15/04,6400m)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC due west of Pheriche, SE of point 5110 and NE of point 5140m.

  No fixed camps above BC. All members in BC on 8th April. Started climb on 12th April in 2 pairs. Duff and Black bived at 18,000 ft and others 18,500 ft on E Ridge/E Face. 13th Brindle and Moore climbed half the day, then storm coming and Moore not well, so they went down while Duff and Black to 19,000 ft on the undefined ridge on the face. 14th on up to 20,000 ft. Was snowing all the time while fundamentally rock climbing on this feature. 15th Duff and Black climbed one hour up to just below 150 ft granite wall, which would take time to surmount directly with aid-climbing, so traversed under it and then down Japanese Couloir route (which Duff climbed in 1987). Went down because by now had lost logical route and weather not good at all. Several avalanches went down couloir as they abseiled down its side. 

  All in BC 15th and still snowing at BC on 18th when left BC. Needed at least a week of sunshine to clear the rock. Was difficult climbing with 2-3 inches of snow on the rock. Black fell off twice. No thought to go back up this "Mountain with a bad god." Brindle not keen and Moore slight altitude sickness. Duff today suffering from sciatica.

  Team members arrived at BC on different dates. "This was more a holiday than a climb," but all were there by 8 April.


expid: ANNS88101
peakid: ANNS
year: 1988
route1: Central Spur of S Face
nation: USA
leaders: William Silva
sponsor: American Annapurna S 1988
countries: UK
approach: Chomrong
bcdate: 1988-04-05
smtdate: 1988-05-07
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to lack of food supplies
accidents: Andrasko carried 500m down by avalanche on 27 April at 4200m, but only bruised and scratched
achievment: New route in unexplored cirque
agency: Jai Himal Trekking
campsites:
  BC(05/04,3700m),ABC(20/04,3600m),C1(24/04,4360m),C2(30/04,5200m),C3(05/05,5600m),C4(07/05,5850m),xxx(07-08/05,6100m)

routememo:
  BC south-southeast of mountain
  C1 at side of couloir
  C2 at col at top of colouir
  C3 at top of west facing hanging glacier middle of south 
  C4 at central spur.

  Turned out to be more difficult and dangerous than anticipated. To get from BC into cirque took 2 weeks to find way. Went up to 15,000 ft on one ridge and hauled loads there in meantime. Had to traverse cliff with 200 ft of fixed rope to ABC in the cirque on ridge of land just above a glacier. Above ABC route up snow couloir to C2. Above C4, steep bad rock or steep bad ice with avalanche face or steep blue ice traverse with many gendarmes. Now little food left and deteriorating weather.


expid: ANN188101
peakid: ANN1
year: 1988
route1: S Face
nation: France
leaders: Benoit Chamoux
sponsor: L'Esprit d'Equipe (Team Spirit)
ascent1: 19th
countries: Czechoslovakia, Italy, USA
bcdate: 1988-04-10
smtdate: 1988-05-10
smttime: 0930
campsites: BC(10/04,4100m),C1(12/04,4800m),C2(14/04,6100m),C3(27/04,6850m),C4(08/05,7300m),Smt(10/05)
accidents: None except Rakoncaj paratyphoid
achievment: 1st Czech and US main summit
agency: Trekking International
routememo:
  BC nearly as same as Japanese on moraine on great side of South Annapurna Glacier.

  Route was basically as same as Japanese in winter 1987 and then variation of British 1970 spring route. Weather was not good with snowfall everyday. Quite difficult wall between C2 and C4 with some steep, even vertical pitches of bad rock, which British climbed. Below this was big serac above couloir above C2 under which had to climb; had to fix rope quite high because of avalanche danger; fixed about 1400m total. 

  Dorotei, Rakoncaj and Boyer established C4 on 8th May and 3 others down to C3; Boyer to C3 next day. On 10th May, 3 French and Boyer started earlier and climbed through C4. Chamoux, Campredon and Boyer were on top within one hour of Dorotei and Rakoncaj (10-11 am), but Detry had been not well day before and turned back 100m from top when others coming down; he had 2 more hours to reach top but weather deteriorating. From C3 started at 11:45 pm on 9th and from C4 at 2:00 am on 10th. All six slept at C2 which was reached at 7 pm on 10th in descent.


expid: ANN188102
peakid: ANN1
year: 1988
route1: N Face
nation: Mexico
leaders: Roberto Morales
sponsor: Mexican Expedition to Annapurna
approach: Kali Gandaki
termnote: Did not reach BC
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  2 days beyond Lete on route to BC at 5000m, where same places are dangerous, 15 of 30 porters decided to go back. On 3rd and 4th days had bad hailstorms and porters asking for snow clothes, which team did not have or go back. BC route still difficult on ice where would have to cut steps in ice and porters. Should have hired porters from Lete who are experienced; porters were from KTM. 

  Team had very limited funds, so expeditions abandoned. Planned to climb Annapurna, but went trekking instead. All members well.


expid: CHRE88101
peakid: CHRE
year: 1988
route1: SW Ridge from SE Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Ji Hoon-Gu
sponsor: 1988 Korea Alpine Club Chung-Dong Churen Himal Expedition
ascent1: 2nd
approach: Kaphe Khola
bcdate: 1988-03-27
smtdate: 1988-05-07
smttime: 1020
accidents: Kwon killed in crevasse; 1 porter carrying to C1 injured by falling stone
achievment: 1st Korean ascent perhaps (not sure about 1970 Spring)
agency: Adventure Nepal
campsites:
  BC(27/03,4750m),C1(31/03,5370m),C2(07/04,5760m),C3(10/04,6310m),C4(17/04,6610m),C5A(20/04,6820m),C5B(26/04,6680m),C6(05/05,7210m),Smt(07/05)

routememo:
  BC  at Kaphe Khola Glacier
  1st C5 at SE Ridge of East Peak
  2nd C5 at SW Ridge of East peak.

  E Ridge from E Peak above C5 very steep knife ridge with 7 or 8 pinnacles without crusted snow on each side, so had to crawl this section. Reached 7180m before giving up because 10 hrs more climbing to summit (had climbed from 5 to 11:30 am on 21st April from C5). Then moved C5 down steep wall to new site with some difficulty via C4. 

  2nd summit bid for E Peak on 28th April from new C5. 27 Apr reached 7200m on SW Ridge of E peak and biv there. 28th Apr down on north side of the ridge to 7130m when weather bad with snowfall and wind, so returned to C5. Now food finished in C5 so on down. 

  3rd May summit bid: C6 pitched at biv place on 5th May, one day rest and 7th May to top via SW Ridge of E Peak to E Peak summit on somewhat difficult sharp ridge on which had to fix short ropes. On entire route fixed 1400m including last part of approach to BC, which placed at last year's C1 site, rock face of Ghustang's N Ridge, just above C2 on triangular rock face and down from 1st C5.

  Kwon fell into crevasse just 10m in front of C3 after having unclipped from fixed rope and tried to cross narrow crevasse, but slipped and fell 90m and was killed. 2 members down near to him and could not reach him completely but already dark.


  Ministry of Tourism Mountaineering Secition - Press Release

  Two members of the 1988 Korean Chung Dang Alpine Club Churen Himal Expedition were successful to climb Mt Churen Himal at 10:20 hours on 7th May 1988.

  They established C6 at 7210m on 5th May and stayed at the same camp. On 6th May they started from C6 at 04:55 hours and reached the summit at 10:20 hours on 7th May. The summiters hoisted the flags of Nepal and South Korea and photographed. They stayed about 55 minutes on the summit and returned to C2. There was strong wind blowing during their stay on the summit.


  Expedition Report/Churen Himal East peak by the First Ascent route from Bulletin of Korean Alpine Federation:

  Seven Jung-Dong Alpine Club members led by Chi Hoon-Ku set up camps on the West Ridge of Churen Himal East Peak.

  The second attempt was tried by Jung-Dong Alpine Club (JAC). The first attempt was tried at premonsoon season last year, but compelled at the point of East Ridge 7200m.

  Although Churen Himal East Peak was climbed by Korean Expedition party in 1970 for the first ascent, but Japan provoked doubts on their conquest for the lack of convincing evidence to prove their conquest.

  JAC established BC at 4750m on March 26, and then C1, C2 and C3 at 5370m, 5760m and 6310m on March 29, April 7 and 10.

  On April 11, Shin Jang-Sup and Kwan Dae-Sik started from C2 to carry loads to C3. Kwon fell in a crevasse near C3. Other members tried to rescue him even for 5 hours, they couldn't pull up his dead body.

  They set up C4, C5 at 6610m, 6810m on April 16, 20. And then Shin Jang-Sup and Lee Heung-Sik proceeded towards the summit via East Ridge.

  Two members confronted Pinnacle connected to East Peak at 1 km front of the summit. The prospective route situated in dangerous condition to pass only a keen and narrow pinnacle zone. The route passed steep ice and snow pinnacle. So they felt that they couldn't come back if they went forward continually and withdrew.

  They depend upon 2 members and no Sherpas, they taking a detour route. On April 26, Shin and Lee moved C5 and set up 6680m on April 26. They approached the summit on the next day but the weather deteriorated when they arrived at the middle peak below 7280m. They made an unprepared bivouac at the point.

  On April 20 they started to the top the ridge of Middle Peak connected to East Peak. The route from Middle Peak Col was pinnacle zone and the way after the route was mixed snow and rock in unstable conditions. They withdrew and came down lower camp. After laying in a supply of food and fuel from C2, they tried the 3rd attack, as the final attack.

  On May 7, Shin and Lee proceeded towards the Summit at 4:50 am and stood on it 10:30 am.

  To climb the route from C4 to the top, which was pinnacle and rock ridge route. They had to pass several rocks. Using 5 hackers and 20m fix rope used when they descended. It was a new approach to the West Ridge.


expid: GAN288101
peakid: GAN2
year: 1988
route1: NE Face (to 6100m)
route2: NE Spur
nation: UK
leaders: Julian Mathias
sponsor: British Ganesh Expedition 1988
countries: USA
approach: Buri Gandaki->Shar Khola->Tarogampa Khola
bcdate: 1988-03-23
smtdate: 1988-04-08
termdate: 1988-04-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to snowfall, avalanching, bad visibility and poor health
campsites: BC(23/03,4570m),C1(28/03,5180m),C2(04/04,5790m),xxx(08/04,6100m)
accidents: Mothersele serious bronchitis
achievment: 1st British and Americans on Ganesh II
agency: Sherpa Society
routememo:
  This mountain previously known as Ganesh III until re-surveyed in early 1990's.

  BC northeast right underneath Ganesh IV at yak hut
  C1 at moraine of branch Tarsgampa Glacier
  C2 just below entrance ice fall to use NE Face
  High point at NE Face.

  Recced up NE Spur left of Japanese route but found it very dangerous from enormous avalanches, so moved to NE Face to left main NE Ridge. Recce 24th. Placed C1 for NE Face climb. Now only 2 climbers because Mothersele ill and never went beyond BC and Downs only litte way above BC (perhaps to 18,000 ft), found it hard going and gave up. From C2 climbed through icefall with water gushing from top if it while huge avalanching going on. 5th April descended to BC because of snow; full previous night. 7th up from BC to C2 and 8th up through "waterfall" but felt impossible to climb high without heavy aids and/or siege tactics. Had only 5 days food left for this push. Went down on 8th with hope of trying Japanese route (NE Spur) but poor weather and each got sick in turn. Donovan did try solo Japanese route on 17th but gave it up too after reached 19,000 ft when warm clouds obscured where he was going.

  Ganesh II very avalanche prone and therefore very dangerous in warmer seasons - great bowl which means warmth and much snow melt - Japanese route probably is the safest route.

  Downs - 23 April 1988

  Abandoned just east route on 9th April - very technical by Donovan and Mathias.
  Downs did recce to 18,000 ft on north side and others were to try this beginning 16th April. Leave BC 21st.
  Downs left BC on 15th and leaves Nepal 28th.
  Mothersele ill - chest infections which got before BC - in BC only 3 days and then left expeditions.
  Donovan and Mathias should arrive KTM 27-28th.


expid: MANA88101
peakid: MANA
year: 1988
route1: NE Face
nation: Poland
leaders: Andrzej Machnik
sponsor: Manaslu NE Face Direct 1988
countries: Canada
bcdate: 1988-03-07
smtdate: 1988-03-09
termdate: 1988-03-16
termnote: Abandoned at 5400m due to heavy snowfall
campsites: BC(07/03,4400m),Biv1(08/03,5000m),Biv2(09/03,5400m),xxx(09,16/03,5400m)
accidents: None
agency: Himalayan Agency
routememo:
  BC at Japanese BC site
  Biv 1 on glacier
  Biv 2 on glacier.

  Constant fresh deep snow with snowline well below Sama (perhaps at 3000m). 16th March went up to final loads but couldn't find it in deep snow so back to BC. Obvious would need wait at least 10 days to resume climb. 9th March started to Naike Col but couldn't reach (too late) & then that night snowfall began. 10th March retreated to BC & several days of snowfall.

  Route variation seems interesting and plan to return to it in 1990.


expid: MANA88103
peakid: MANA
year: 1988
route1: NE Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Roberto Pe
sponsor: Manaslu VCO Expedition 1988
bcdate: 1988-04-04
smtdate: 1988-05-01
termnote: Abandoned at 7050m due to dangerous snow conditions
campsites: BC(04/04,3850m),C1(06/04,5050m),C2(08/04,5600m),C3(09/04,6500m),C4(01/05,7050m),xxx(01/05,7050m)
accidents: None
agency: Trekking International
routememo:
  BC at normal site above Samagaon
  C1 on glacier
  C2 on Naike Col
  C3 at glacier below North Col
  C4 on NE Face.
  High point at C4.

  Good weather in early April but then bad weather began with snowfall after. Made 3-4 attempts to go high but always stopped by snow. Finally C4 pitched on 1 May but again snow (1m) avalanche destroyed tents at C3 16th April but no one hurt. Route is not difficult but dangerous seracs between C2 and C3; big danger from avalanching when snow falls.


expid: MANA88102
peakid: MANA
year: 1988
route1: E Ridge-NE Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Anton (Toni) Spirig
sponsor: Swiss Manaslu Expedition 1988
ascent1: 29th
bcdate: 1988-04-03
smtdate: 1988-05-01
smttime: 1320
campsites: BC(03/04,4500m),C1(08/04,5900m),C2(13/04,6750m),Biv(30/04,7500m),Smt(01/05)
accidents: None
achievment: 1st Swiss woman to 8000m summit
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  below East Ridge (really on East Ridge southwest of Samagaon)
  C1  on East Ridge
  C2  at beginning of plateau (slope between Ridge and NE Face)
  Biv at 7500m at small saddle on normal route.

  Team had planned to send more summiters on 2nd May but weather turned bad with stormy snow 1-2 hrs after 1st team reached top on 1 May. All down to BC. 

  3 members went up to a bit higher than 7500m but windy and no shelter at 7600m on 10th May and back to C2. Now clouds moved in and on 11th fought way down to BC in heavy snowstorm. After that team had enough. One traverse of 150m was only difficult point; was at 6000m and ropes fixed there which made it easy. Also fixed section of 250m below C1 to make it easy climbing upper part of a steep couloir.

  Calendar of Events - expedition report

  25/3/88  Begin of approach march through the Buri Gandaki valley with
           54 local porters.
  03/4/88  Sama - basecamp with 24 porters from Sama village
  06/4/88  Reconnoitre of route on the East Ridge up to 5500m. Putting
           fixed ropes (250m) in the upper section of the big couloir
  08/4/88  Establishing C1 at 5900m by Fuster, Levet, Spirig
  09/4/88  Climbing on the East Ridge up to the begin of the steep 
           traverse clearing and fixing old ropes, which we found in place
           (Fuster, Levet, Spirig)
  10/4/88  Climbing the steep traverse through the South Face 
           Hangelquergang and fixing 150m of rope (Spirig, Levet).
  13/4/88  Establishing C2 at 6800m by Fuster/Ott.
           They turned back after the arrival of bad weather.
  16/4/88  Establishing of gear and food deposit at 6500m. We had to 
           return due to bad weather (Levet, Spirig)
  19/4/88  Attempt stopped in C1 by bad weather (Huber, Fuster, Ott). 
           After 1 day, they returned to BC.
  22/4/88  Attempt stopped in C1 in heavy snowfall and bad weather (Levet,
           Spirig). Returned to BC after 3 days.
  16/4/88  Attempt stopped in C1 in bad weather (Wille, Stahel). Returned to 
           BC after 2 days.
  28/4/88  C1 reached by Huber, Fuster, Ott and Wille, Stahel.
  29/4/88  C2 reached by Huber, Fuster, Ott.
  30/4/88  Climbed up to 7500m and biv there (no tent) by Huber, Fuster, Ott.
           C1 reached by Levet, Spirig (Wille, Stahel still there).
  01/5/88  Huber, Fuster and Ott started at 5 am and reached the summit of
           8163m high Manaslu at 1:20 pm. Bad weather arrived very soon. 
           They had to descend in snowfall and fog. Late at night they 
           reached the deposited tent at 6500m, after a short visit of 
           the other group at C2. Ursula Huber is the first Swiss woman 
           to reach the summit of an 8000m peak!
  01/5/88  C2 reached by Levet, Stahel, Spirig weather got bad in the 
           afternoon and snowfall started.
  02/5/88  The whole team descended down to basecamp in bad weather and snowfall.
  08/5/88  C1 reached by Levet, Spirig and Wille, Stahel.
  09/5/88  Levet, Stahel and Spirig reached C2 in bad storm.
           We decided to bring down the gear and to camp at a more protected
           spot at 6500m.
  10/5/88  After one night with strong winds and much snow blowing around,
           we continued the ascend in still stormy conditions. In 7500m, 
           found the biv place of our friends. The site was storm beaten 
           and we couldn't find any protected spot or enough snow to dig
           and snow cave. Eventually, after reaching 7600m, we decided to
           turn back. Late at night we reached our last camp at 6500m.
  11/5/88  Descending down to BC in heavy snowfall and poor visibility
           (Levet, Stahel, Spirig).
  13/5/88  Returned from BC with 10 porters from Sama village. After 9 days
           Gorkha was reached.


expid: PUTH88101
peakid: PUTH
year: 1988
route1: S Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Hooman Aprin
sponsor: American Putha Hiunchuli 1988
approach: Berni->GurjaKarni->straigt N and NW into Kaphe Khola
bcdate: 1988-04-09
smtdate: 1988-05-01
termdate: 1988-05-06
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to avalanche threat to route
campsites: BC(09/04,4630m),C1(19/04,5425m),C2(24/04,5600m),C3(05/05,5910m),xxx(01/05,6300m)
accidents: None
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  BC southeast of peak, east of a 6500m dome
  C1 on South Ridge below rock tower
  C2 above rock tower
  C3 at base of ice tower (all blue ice)
  High point at nice tower.

  Clients had very hard time on blue ice of ice tower (above C3). Had fixed 850 ft on snow gulley tower to C2; above that on blue ice 900 more ft to C3; above C3 1000 ft on ice tower fixed but after snowstorm couldn't reach this last rope in avalanche-threatened area which had to cross. On 3 May tried to return to tower but too risky and turned back and climb finished. Did not actually reach S Ridge.


expid: AMAD88401
peakid: AMAD
year: 1988
route1: SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Young-Ju
sponsor: Korean Bong Am Alpine Club Ama Dablam Expedition Winter 1988-89
ascent1: 65th,66th
bcdate: 1988-11-27
smtdate: 1988-12-16
smttime: 1250
campsites: BC(27/11,4500m),C1(09/12,5820m),C2(12/12,6170m),Biv(16/12,6300m),Smt(16-17/12)
accidents: Bong slight frostbite his toes
routememo:
  SE Face had much rock fall so made no attempt to climb it. Team was only on normal route, following exactly route French had just climbed. After making BC, had altitude problem (first time in Himalayas for all 3 members - had many headaches). So went down to Pangboche twice, then got down to climbing mountain. 

  1st summit attack 14th Dec by Cha and Kim from C2 and reached crevasse at 6500m and returned to C2 that evening. 15th Dec they rested in C2 (Bong in C1). 16th Dec Cha and Kim to summit and Bong from C1 to C2 and on to a bivouac at 6300m. 17th Dec Bong bivouac to summit and down only to C2 in cloudy and windy weather, which pinned him in bivouac all of 18th. Clouds made Bong's difficult because bad visibility; used others rope.


  Sanak In - Spring 1989

  All members are first overseas climbing. They arrived at BC on Nov 27. They rested few days because they suffered from the symptoms of high altitude and after they established  C1 and C2 until Dec 13th.

  Upper the C2 blocked by mixed snow and rock face. Yellow tower was very difficult technic climb route which vertical and crack rock step 500m long.

  They started for the purpose of attacking the summit but they could not reach the top because there appeared to have one night but they have no bivouac equipments. After all they retreat to C2. Food was knocked down by a huge birds on C2, so the foods also become to short.

  They attempted 2nd attack on Dec 16 at 04:40 and reached the steep ice and passed the Second Step at 11:00. After they followed the summit ridge finally they got to the top at 12:50.


  Hirsh, French, etc - 15 Dec 88

  Korean Ama Dablam

  Were trying eastern of 2 South Ridges but making little progress. LO left then to let them climb where they liked after that so may go onto SW Ridge where French had left their fixed ropes.

  French left BC 10 Dec and Koreans were then giving up to their own C1. They didn't seem to be properly equipped or know what they were doing.


expid: AMAD88402
peakid: AMAD
year: 1988
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Marc Batard
sponsor: Batard Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 61st-64th
countries: Belgium, Italy, Spain, USA
bcdate: 1988-11-29
smtdate: 1988-12-04
termdate: 1988-12-10
othersmts: Island Peak
campsites: BC(29/11,4600m),C1(01/12,5400m),C2(02/12,6100m),Smt(04,06-08/12)
routememo:
  BC on plateau above Mingbo Glacier (usual site)
  C1 near lake
  C2 on ridge just before steep section.

  Winds destroyed tents and food at C2 so had to rest back and prepare for early start for 2nd summit party. Garcia left C2 with 2nd party, was really sick but on antibiotics and stopped at 4 pm at 6400m in crevasse near route, sat on backpack all night and reached top next morning in strong wind and cloud; Laot stayed at C2 from 2nd Dec and went up again alone on 8th Dec followed later by 2 Sherpas. Left C2 5 am on top at 10 am. Down 12 noon.

  1 summiter (LeBissonnais) lost leg to cancer at age 17 when was already very strong rock climber and goes climbing constantly with prothesis (leg off above left knee); another summiter (Rouys) has incomplete fingers and toes from birth.


expid: ANN188401
peakid: ANN1
year: 1988
route1: S Face
nation: Bulgaria
leaders: Metodi Stefanov Savov
sponsor: Annapurna I Bulgarian Winter Expedition 1988
bcdate: 1988-11-07
smtdate: 1988-12-14
termdate: 1989-01-09
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(07/11,4150m),ABC(02/12,5100m),C1(06/12,5600m),C2(12/12,6600m),xxx(14/12,6800m)
accidents: Ang Kami fell and injured leg but OK after 1 week; Tomov kidney attack in Nov and went home
routememo:
  High point on South Face.

  Did new route from C1 to C2 with 1200m fixed rope on very hard rock in couloir (up which Sherpas refused to go even after rope fixed). Very difficult but shorter and more stable than older route, more direct. At C2 joined Polish route.

  In Nov made route and carried loads to ABC; did not climb any trekking peaks. In mid-Dec more than 2m fresh snow from 15th Dec and on 17th Dec all down to BC because already 1m snow; 23-25th Dec more heavy snowfall with 2-1/2m snow lying at BC now. 29th Dec up to ABC, where found more than 1-1/2m snow, restablished camp with new tents. 31 Dec remade route to C1, where over 4m snow and only 1 tent found but other tent had all supplies. 3rd Jan snowfall again and by 6th Jan over 1-1/2m new snow between ABC and C1. 7th Jan all down to BC. Between C1 and C2 couloir now mostly iced and impossible to climb so expedition finished. Almost constant powder snow avalanches but did no harm.

  Many problems with Sherpas and with getting porters to evacuate BC.


expid: CHOY88401
peakid: CHOY
year: 1988
route1: SE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Kiyoshi Ishii
sponsor: Masaki Matsumoto Cho Oyu Winter Expedition
bcdate: 1989-01-15
smtdate: 1989-01-16
termdate: 1989-01-17
termnote: Abandoned at 5700m due to wind, deep snow and lack of time
campsites: BC(15/01,5300m),xxx(16/01,5700m)
accidents: None
routememo:
  BC at west side Lungsampa Glacier
  High point at top of Lungsampa Icefall.

  16 Jan climbed up thick icefall to 5700m and turned back by strong wind; back to BC. 17 Jan to Gokyo because too much snow and wind no time. Lost a week's time because of no flights from KTM to Lukla and lost two more weeks getting to BC because deep snow in Khumbu made portering very difficult to BC.


expid: NEMJ88401
peakid: NEMJ
year: 1988
route1: W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yoshida Kazumi
sponsor: NTT Kyushu Alpine Club Himlung Expedition
approach: Dudh Khola->Hampuk & small stream N of Hampuk
bcdate: 1988-11-19
smtdate: 1988-12-17
termdate: 1988-12-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6650m due to bad weather conditions
campsites: BC(19/11,4050m),C1(25/11,4600m),C2(08/12,5400m),C3(12/12,6000m),C4(15/12,6350m),xxx(17/12,6650m)
accidents: Moti Lal frostbitten cheeks and nose; some climbers hit by rock but not hurt
routememo:
  Expeditions to Himlung prior to 1992 were probably climbing Nemjung.

  BC at small stream moraine south of mountain
  C1 at glacier southwest of summit
  C2 below West Col on hanging glacier
  C3 on snow plateau just east of West Ridge
  C4 on West Ridge (Tibet side of serac)
  High point at 2nd rock steep ridge.

  "Very difficult mountain." From BC to C1 2 hrs walk; C1 to C2 8 hrs exposed to dangerous rockfall while climbing icefall. Fixed entire route (every day rock and ice avalanches). C2 to C3 icefall (again ice blocks falling). C3 to C4 on knife ridge with left leg in Tibet, right leg in Nepal. Very hard blue ice; again all fixed with ropes. Above C4 very sharp knife ridge on very hard blue ice (crampons slipped). To pass large hanging ice, Baba made hole through it. High point of 6650m was 50m high rock wall which had 3 rock steps, 1st one Baba passed but other two presented greater problems and so gave up this attempt in strong wind and need for rest for 3 days. Then 3 days heavy snowfall began 18th Dec which left 20cm deep snow at BC and no good weather coming.

  Did not attempt S Face; many avalanches and "no route."
   
  "It is miracle that all members alive." 1 member's rucksack has big hole from rock that fell.


expid: LANG88401
peakid: LANG
year: 1988
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Akitsugu Nishimura
sponsor: Japan Kumamoto Star & Storm Climbing Club Winter Expedition 1988
ascent1: 9th
approach: Langtang Khola
bcdate: 1988-11-24
smtdate: 1988-12-11
smttime: 1420
campsites: BC(24/11,4000m),C1(01/12,4900m),C2(04/12,5600m),C3(07/12,6200m),Smt(11/12)
accidents: Noge altitude sickness but quickly recovered by descending
achievment: 1st Japanese ascent in winter
routememo:
  BC at Lirung Glacier.

  Rock ridge grade 4 difficulty; snow ridge above C3 knife ridge and more difficult. Summit party started from C3 at 6:00 am. Nage got altitude sickness and turned back at 6500m while others went on top at 2:30 pm; no ropes fixed above C3. 2000m rope fixed between BC and C3. 

  No other summit bid because other members not so strong. Climbers unable to manage difficulty above C2.


expid: TAWO88401
peakid: TAWO
year: 1988
route1: E Face up; E Ridge down
nation: USA
leaders: Jeff Lowe, John Roskelley
sponsor: American Tawoche Expedition
ascent1: 6th
bcdate: 1989-01-25
smtdate: 1989-02-15
termdate: 1989-02-17
campsites: BC(25/01,4300m),ABC(31/01,5500m),Biv1(07/02),Smt(15/02)
accidents: Lowe altitude sickness last couple of days
achievment: 1st ascent of E Face
routememo:
  Route was harder than they had expected; difficult technical rock, very steep, down-sloping rock-had to chip rock to make platform for sleeping-safe route. No rock fall, their climbing together very smooth, as though they had been climbing together all their lives. Took them 8-1/2 days from start of climb to summit, 1-1/2 days down.

  Lowe and Roskelley arrived KTM from Lukla on 23 Feb and caught their flight to Bangkok few hours later. Houtan spoke with them very briefly while they finished packing at his house.

  Up from BC on 6th and from ABC on 7th. Tried to get 2, sometimes 3 and 1 day 4 pitches in each day. Photo shows snow but this taken in earlier season: there was no snow and would take couple of hours to chip out rock for bivs." Fairly safe but has to be done in winter to be reasonable. We did have rock fall; on face one of our ropes was chopped in half." Fixed first 2 pitons up and just started climbing; climbing rope was cut in half; rock went through Jeff's biv. sack and sleeping bag, hit where Jeff's shoulder had been. Real steep, one of steepest climbs continuously either of us has ever been on." Very thin pitons called knife blades "only thing got up." Some good weather. Ice climbing but one difficult pure water ice tongue which Jeff climbed under and up around. Only at 7th biv site were able to find small cave and thus only place not exposed to all loose rock on this face (with more climbers would have sent rock down others below). Hardest climb Roskelley ever done.

  Roskelley couldn't remember altitudes of bivouacs.


  Report filed with Tourism Ministry:

  Tawoche Winter 1988-89
  Route of ascent: East Face
  Arrived BC 25 Jan, climbed up 7 to 15 Feb.
  Descended 15 and 16 in alpine-style from base of face to top.
  Route of descent: "used 2-year-old Japanese route down SE Ridge to southeast gullies."


  Report filed with Tourism Ministry: Tawoche Winter 1988-89

  Route of ascent: East Face arrived BC 25 Jan
  Climbed up 7 to 15 Feb, descended in alpine style from base of face to top.
  Route of descent: "used 2 years old Japanese route down SE Ridge to southeast gullies."
  Left BC 17th Feb.


expid: THAM88401
peakid: THAM
year: 1988
route1: W Ridge (to 5365m)
route2: S Ridge (to 5790m)
nation: USA
leaders: Hooman Aprin
sponsor: Him-Kooh American Thamserku Expedition
countries: Canada
approach: Kyashar Drangka valley
bcdate: 1988-12-01
smtdate: 1988-12-12
termdate: 1988-12-13
termnote: Abandoned at 5790m due to difficulty of route
accidents: None
achievment: 1st US and Canadian attempt
campsites:
  BC(01/12,4270m),C1.Biv(03/12,4900m),BC2(07/12,4175m),C1(08/12,4725m),Biv1(09/12,5180m),Biv2(10/12,5455m),Biv3(11/12,5730m),xxx(12/12,5790m)

routememo:
  1st BC southwest of mountain
  Biv C1 at bottom of West Ridge
  2nd BC II Kyashar Glacier
  2nd C1 at lateral moraine on west side of glacier
  1st biv on a bottom between point 5991m and point 5652m
  2nd biv at buttress
  3rd biv on South Ridge
  High point at the base of tower.

  Found fixed ropes left by French in 1985 autumn on West Ridge when ridge covered with snow, but now snow gone and headwall to ridge entirely rotten rock. Climbed to 5365m on 4th Dec and then gave up intention to scale this ridge because of many rotten rock towers which would have required much fixed rope and time but intention was to climb rapidly, so descended to 4570m on 4th, dropped loads there and down to BC same day. On 5th tried another approach to ridge a little further east, but lot of rocks coming down so too dangerous to get close as back to BC. 

  6th to Manje and 7th went east through Kyashar Glacier to try South Ridge with Sherpas carrying loads to C1. 9th Aprin and Culver began alpine-style push up 600m loose rock up a buttress on E Side of S Ridge and biv without tent. 10th to very small ledge on buttress. 11th had climbing continued but snow on rock now, which made for faster climbing and reached ridge at 3:30 pm at base of tower (5790m). 12th looked at rock to tower but did not have enough gear for 300m vertical distance to rappel down in descent so decided to descend and were in BC on 12th determined to return to route in spring 1989 making stocked camp at 5730m and fixing whole buttress and perhaps 1st tower with Sherpas.


expid: YALU88401
peakid: YALU
year: 1988
route1: SE Face
nation: Poland
leaders: Jozef Stepien
sponsor: Polish Winter Himalayan Expedition 1988-89
bcdate: 1989-01-08
smtdate: 1989-02-09
termdate: 1989-03-01
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to fierce winds and snow
accidents: None
campsites:
  TempBC(08/01,3900m),BC1(4000m),BC2(4900m),BC3(20/01,5600m),C1(01/02,6200m),C2(07/02,6900m),xxx(09/02,7200m)

routememo:
  BC at Tseram 4 days for porters from normal BC
  Normal BC at normal site
  C1 at normal site
  C2 at normal site.

  Had to make route to normal BC (BC3) in deep snow and normal BC was actually third BC for this team; all porters had left expedition at Tseram but 2 Tibetans helped carry to normal BC. Very strong winds non-stop night and day everyday above 6500m during climb. This why reached early 7200m in clear sunny weather. Lost C2 on way to normal BC 2 tents and never found them (this on glacier at 4900m = "glacier BC") about 25th Feb and at normal BC, 2 tents destroyed. On 9 Feb Lwow ascended on hands and knees in terrible winds and had to retreat to BC for rest. Then came heavy snowfall again. Fixed 250m ropes only in short section to C1 and later not used. Reached 7200m without fixed ropes.

  Lwow - 10 March 89

  17 Dec 88 - KTM -> by truck
  19 Dec    - Dhankuta -> Basantpur
  20 Dec    - Basantapur
  25 Dec    - Hellok
  29 Dec    - Hellok
  02 Jan 89 - Torontan
  07 Jan    - Tseram
  08 Jan    - Tseram
  20 Jan    - BC, our third BC
  01 Feb    - C1 - 6200m (Lwow, Jakubowski)
  08 Feb    - C2 - 6900m (Lwow, Jakubowski)
  09 Feb    - C2 - 7200m
  14 Feb    - snow, 30 cm in snowfall lost C2 and deposit at 7200m for
              for fully stocked C3.
  19 Feb    - snow 70 cm
  22 Feb    - C1 (Lwow, Pankiewicz, Pichlak)
  26 Feb    - all people in the BC (Tseram) arriving Russian expedition
              8 members and sirdar and 30 porters
  01 Mar    - left Tseram
  08 Mar    - KTM again
                  

  Rutkiewicz - 24 Feb 89

  Arrived BC 20 Jan 5600m after 6 weeks aprproach march. Had first BC at about 10 Jan 3870m in forest at Sera and only 2 porters carrying loads beyond this. Left expedition 10 Feb. Made
    C1  6200m
    C2  6900m
  and reached 7150m when she left.


expid: CHOY88201
peakid: CHOY
year: 1988
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: France
leaders: Marc Batard
sponsor: French-Nepalese Cho Oyu Expedition 1988
ascent1: 49th
countries: Nepal
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1988-08-24
smtdate: 1988-09-01
smttime: 1000
othersmts: Attempted Lhotse S Face (LHOT-883-03), climbed Everest (EVER-883-07)
campsites: BC(24/08,5700m),Biv(6700m),Smt(01/09)
accidents: Batard had flu from day of arrival at BC & on antibiotics to today 5 Sept
primid: EVER88307
routememo:
  Batard & Sungdare made probably the fastest ascent of Cho Oyu to date. They were entirely alone on the mountain & encountered nearly knee-deep fresh snow. On 27 Aug, 3 days after they had arrived at their BC (5700m), they pitched a bivouac tent at 6700m, their only tent above base, tried to go the top on the 28th, but they were not well acclimatized & retreated to base. On 31st they went again to 6700m. In the evening at 10 pm left for the summit, climbed all night in full moonlight & were on the top at 10 am on 1st Sept. By 5:30 pm the same day they were back in base, having carried their bivouac tent down with them. Batard had flu & was on antibiotics throughout the climb.

  From BC went without camps higher. 1st climb therefore biv 26 Aug 6200m and 2nd night to 6700m. 3rd day (28 Aug) started for summit without tent and was too quickly reached 8000m and back to biv - were too tired, not acclimatized. Took more direct route than normal route way but not very difficult. Down to BC on 29th and stayed there 2 nights. 31st up again by normal way; left BC 1:30 pm and reached biv tent at 6700m on a plateau at 6:30 pm. Had food and drink and started up at 10:00 pm and climbed all night in full moonlight and on top at 10:00 am 1 Sept. When reached top were in fog but suddenly fully clear and could see were on highest point but found no metal flag. Much fresh snow made it almost knee deep. Stayed about 30 min on summit in warm sun. Down directly back to BC with biv equipment and arrived at BC 5:30 pm 1 Sept. Saw no other people's tents. "Physically it was very difficult for Sungdare and me." Sungdare very strong and when no track already made, he and Batard go at same speed. This climb was preparation for Everest, not a bid to scale all 8000ers but I am very happy to climb.


expid: EVER88401
peakid: EVER
year: 1988
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Herman Detienne
sponsor: Herman Detienne Everest/Lhotse Winter 1988
countries: Netherlands, Poland
bcdate: 1988-11-10
smtdate: 1988-12-22
termnote: Abandoned at 8700m due to bad weather and Sherpa death
othersmts: Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-884-01)
campsites: BC(10/11,5350m),C1(01/12,6050m),C2(03/12,6400m),C3(06/12,7300m),C4(21/12,8000m),xxx(22/12,8700m)
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col
  High point just below South Summit.

  After C3 established bad weather. 3 times forced abandonment of climbing to col: wind and clouds. Finally on 11th Dec 4 Sherpas including Ang Rita carried up loads, 2 to Col (Ang Rita and Ang Jangbu) and other 2 an hour below col. 

  On 21st Van Snick, Ang Rita and Ang Lhakpa Dorje (Ang Lhakpa of Everest 1985 spring summit) pitched camp at col. Left C3 8:30 and arrived 15:30. At midnight in bright moonlight left C4 for summit attempt by all three despite Ang Lhakpa's having been ill in evening twice. Van Snick and Ang Lhakpa used oxygen resting before start of climb on 21st night and during the climb above col Ang Rita carried full bottle for Van Snick. Was no wind, snow conditions very good. Ang Lhakpa had problem mask clogging with ice. 8 am arrived just below S Summit at 8700m and stopped to change Van Snick's oxygen bottle and drink tea. Ang Lhakpa fell on his back and slipped 8m, did not move, Ang Rita went to him and gave oxygen while Ang Lhakpa remained unconscious briefly then came around. Ang Rita spoke to him but Ang Lhakpa's speech confused. All three descended with Ang Lhakpa's walking roped between other 2; arrived at C4 9:30 am, rested 1 hrs, then Ang Lhakpa semi-conscious. Very strong wind and impossible to descend and had to return to tent almost immediately after they had started to descend; gave Ang Lhakpa more oxygen. By 4:00 pm it was clear descent impossible that day as wind stronger still. At night leg spasms; doctor thinks had cerebral thrombosis. At midnight Ang Lhakpa's oxygen empty and Van Snick stopped resting on oxygen and gave his to Ang Lhakpa. 2 am Ang Rita went out and found another bottle outside tent and Ang Lhakpa got new oxygen bottle. Ang Lhakpa found to be dead at 7 am while others trying to get radio contact with lower camps to ask 3 Sherpas come up to help. Still strong wind at col but on face not so bad and Ang Rita and Van Snick could descend and went to BC same day. Now decided Everest climb finished: exhausted and ill after 6 weeks on mountain, and strongest climbers, Ang Rita and Van Snick not in top condition. Soon afterwards came big storm which destroyed higher camps. No attempt to return to col for body.

  If Van Snick and Ang Rita had gone to summit, would have gotten there at about 10:00 am and perhaps would not have survived descent.

  Everest effort by Belgians failed - collapsed after 1st bid and Xmas at BC: 
  1. No strong leadership - Detienne got sick and went to KTM; deputy leader Vreugde interest in scientific research for one month and not leadership; climbing leader Cornellissen not strong personality, too mild; Sirdar Ang Phurba's wife seriously ill and he left BC.
  2. Psychological problem of first experience with winter's severe weather - Belgians not prepared for this
  3. "Low altitude" sickness - Detienne would have died without use of 3 bottles of oxygen at and below BC.
  4. Came too early in season - now is time to be mounting ascent, not Nov
  5. Death (in this case Lhakpa Dorje's) is problem for young climbers and Tettelin, who is strong, took death very hard.
  6. Few strong climbers: Miss Baeyeons (sick), Van Snick and Tettelin only.

  Much money spent on expedition including 3 generators at BC for electric lights, 7 kitchen staff at BC, 2 Belgians at BC only for food and equipment, etc.


  Detienne - 24 Dec 88

  22nd early 1:00 am 3 start from S Col - 8:00 am reached just below S Col. Lhakpa Dorje sickness, lost control and collapsed in snow. Rudy and Ang Rita brought to South Col tent and gave higher flow of oxygen. Big snow and wind storm, stayed in col with sick man now in coma in late afternoon - 7:00 am died. Rudy and Ang Rita to BC late evening, leaving Lhakpa Dorje at Col; want to bring him down but winds preventing this.

  Everest cancelled but 1 Belgian and 2 Poles try Lhotse. Stayed 10-14 days,
  others leaving BC 23rd not so well; all others 27th leave BC. In KTM 31st.

  On 22 Dec they started at 1 am from South Col toward the summit. At 8 am they reached just below 8700m. Sherpa Lhakpa Dorje collapsed to unconsciousness. Ang Rita and Rudy brought Sherpa to South Col. They put him on oxygen. That whole afternoon Sherpa was in coma. At early morning on 23rd Dec (7am) he died. In South Col there were no other member except summit party.

  On 22nd due to very bad weather (storm, windy, snowfall) Ang Rita and Rudy cannot bring down Sherpa body.

  After Lhakpa death two climbers left South Col and in the late afternoon, they reached base camp. It was not possible for them to bring down the dead body of Lhakpa due to exhaustion and bad weather.

  Sherpa's are going to try to bring down the body if weather permits.

  Everest expedition decided to abandon their bid due to this accident, but Lhotse bid be continued with Belgian lady climber.

accidents:
  Dewaele exhausted, shocked, needed O2 and was brought down; much slight frostbite; leader's serious lung ailment; Ang Lhakpa fatal fall


expid: LHOT88401
peakid: LHOT
year: 1988
route1: W Face
nation: Belgium
leaders: Herman Detienne
sponsor: Herman Detienne Everest/Lhotse Winter 1988
ascent1: 18th
countries: Poland
bcdate: 1988-11-10
smtdate: 1988-12-31
smttime: 1400
othersmts: Attempted Everest (EVER-884-01)
campsites: BC(10/11,5350m),C1(01/12,6050m),C2(03/12,6400m),C3(06/12,7300m),C4(21/12,8000m),Smt(31/12)
accidents: Wielicki frostbitten big toe (which should heal)
primid: EVER88401
routememo:
  When came down to BC for Christmas suddenly Belgiums decided to quit. Waited few days for storm to pass, then had to prevent Sherpas from taking down C1 and C2. Wielicki on 28 Dec went up to Cwm to stop Sherpas, other 2 Poles and Ingrid to C2 on 29th but had bronchitis. 30th Wielicki took sleeping bag and equipment to see if C3 intact and try for top alone if good weather while others sick. 31st no clouds and wind and Wielicki went up quickly, not taking time for making C4. Started 4:20 am after having made a tent out of 2 torn tents; Cichy still sick but went up to C3 when saw Wielicki moving up from C3. Wielicki reached bottom of couloir at 10:15 am, 1-1/4 hours later than planned, but couloir was easy in good snow conditions in it. Reached summit 2:00 pm in little wind; returned to C3 at 5:00 pm, pushing and timing himself in descent not to rest too long each time and end up dead like Marcel Ruedi. Felt cold despite all warm clothing and one big toe frostbitten. 

  No others to try Lhotse top: Ingrid sick throughout expedition; did not go above C2 for Lhotse (to C3 for Everest). Icefall in terrible conditions 40 ladders needed (1 place 4 ladders strung together) vs 2 in 1979-80. Belgians insisted on Everest attempt before Lhotse bid. After Poles prepared Cichy and Van Snick to make Everest bid and after they got to Everest top, Cichy and Wielicki (who would have come to Col) to go from Col to Lhotse summit (not on ridge but little below ridge) but Belgians determined to go home: pressure on Van Snick not to climb over Lhakpa Dorje's body.

  Everest effort by Belgians failed - collapsed after 1st bid and Xmas at BC: 
  1. No strong leadership - Detienne got sick and went to KTM; deputy leader Vreugde interest in scientific research for one month and not leadership; climbing leader Cornellissen not strong personality, too mild; Sirdar Ang Phurba's wife seriously ill and he left BC.
  2. Psychological problem of first experience with winter's severe weather - Belgians not prepared for this
  3. "Low altitude" sickness - Detienne would have died without use of 3 bottles of oxygen at and below BC.
  4. Came too early in season - now is time to be mounting ascent, not Nov
  5. Death (in this case Lhakpa Dorje's) is problem for young climbers and Tettelin, who is strong, took death very hard.
  6. Few strong climbers: Miss Baeyeons (sick), Van Snick and Tettelin only.

  Much money spent on expedition including 3 generators at BC for electric lights, 7 kitchen staff at BC, 2 Belgians at BC only for food and equipment, etc.


  Detienne - 24 Dec 88

  22nd early 1:00 am 3 start from S Col - 8:00 am reached just below S Col. Lhakpa Dorje sickness, lost control and collapsed in snow. Rudy and Ang Rita brought to South Col tent and gave higher flow of oxygen. Big snow and wind storm, stayed in col with sick man now in coma in late afternoon - 7:00 am died. Rudy and Ang Rita to BC late evening, leaving Lhakpa Dorje at Col; want to bring him down but winds preventing this.

  Everest cancelled but 1 Belgian and 2 Poles try Lhotse. Stayed 10-14 days,
  others leaving BC 23rd not so well; all others 27th leave BC. In KTM 31st.

  On 22 Dec they started at 1 am from South Col toward the summit. At 8 am they reached just below 8700m. Sherpa Lhakpa Dorje collapsed to unconsciousness. Ang Rita and Rudy brought Sherpa to South Col. They put him on oxygen. That whole afternoon Sherpa was in coma. At early morning on 23rd Dec (7am) he died. In South Col there were no other member except summit party.

  On 22nd due to very bad weather (storm, windy, snowfall) Ang Rita and Rudy cannot bring down Sherpa body.

  After Lhakpa death two climbers left South Col and in the late afternoon, they reached base camp. It was not possible for them to bring down the dead body of Lhakpa due to exhaustion and bad weather.

  Sherpa's are going to try to bring down the body if weather permits.

  Everest expedition decided to abandon their bid due to this accident, but Lhotse bid be continued with Belgian lady climber.


expid: EVER88402
peakid: EVER
year: 1988
route1: SW Face (Bonington rte)
nation: S Korea
leaders: Park Young-Bae
sponsor: Park Young-Bae Everest Winter 1988
bcdate: 1988-12-08
smtdate: 1989-01-10
termdate: 1989-01-12
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to wind (no snow in gully)
campsites: BC(08/12,5400m),C1(10/12,6000m),C2(14/12,6300m),C3(19/12,7500m),C4(10/01,7800m),xxx(10/01,7800m)
accidents: None
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on SW Face 
  C4 on SW Face
  High point at C4.

  Belgians made icefall route and charged $1200 and Rs 5000. In gully all ice, no snow so Sungdare and Park Jong-Guk say impossible to climb. Anyway very strong wind and rock avalanching. Stayed in C4 2-3 nights but made no attempt to go higher. Progress to C4 very slow because much snow as well as fierce winds. Fixed rope all way from C2 to C4. 2 members and 4 Sherpas to C3, 1 member and 2 Sherpas to C4.


expid: LANR83301
peakid: LANR
year: 1983
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Ryohei Nishioku
sponsor: Chuo University-Nepal Joint Expedition to Langtang Ri
ascent1: 3rd
countries: Nepal
bcdate: 1983-09-10
smtdate: 1983-10-09
smttime: 1220
termdate: 1983-10-15
campsites: BC(10/09,5000m),C1(13/09,5760m),C2(20/09,6200m),C3(01/10,6700m),Smt(09/10)
routememo:
  BC on Langtang Glacier just west of Goldum as planned.

  Not more on top because many spells bad weather that meant much extra work and food supplies finishing. Summit day very cloudy: left C3 7:20 am, on top 12:20.

  C2 to top steep snow walls. Route condition different than Japanese in 1981: deep snow this year very dangerous, so had to vary actual route.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 21 Oct 83

  Success: summit reached 9 Oct at 12:20 pm. Put Japanese, Nepal and Cheo University flags on top (from C3 or elsewhere not said):
     Tsuchiya Yasunori, born 1953, sales manager
     Sundeep Gurung, 25
     Pema Sherpa, 35
     Pemba Lama

  BC 11 Sept 5000m
  C1 14 Sept 5760m
  C2 and C3
  All well and returned to BC (no date).


expid: DHA183301
peakid: DHA1
year: 1983
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Tsuneo Hasegawa
sponsor: U-Tan Club Dhaulagiri I Expedition 1983
countries: China
bcdate: 1983-09-27
smtdate: 1983-11-03
termdate: 1983-11-06
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to high winds
accidents: Chin died from altitude sickness
campsites:
  BC(27/09,4900m),TempC1(30/09,5100m),C1.ABC-NECol(08/10,5700m),C2(18/10,6600m),C3(01/11,7500m),xxx(03/11,7700m)

routememo:
  BC at usual NE Ridge route site.

  Wind too strong; [Hasegawa and Ishii] were going for summit 3 Nov from C3, but went to ABC. After that Hasegawa tried alone for top on 5 Nov from ABC to top on same day. Left 1:00 am from ABC, but Chin coming down from C2 to ABC that day and Chin did not reach ABC and Hasegawa looked for him and thus diverted from summit bid. Waited for daylight, found Chin at 7:30 am in biv and came down with him. No other summit bid because 17th Nov time limit. 

  Hasegawa did not try face because ridge route leader Yoshio was in bad condition (stayed BC a while then left 20 Oct), so Hasegawa had to take over as ridge leader. He hopes to make a solo ascent of an 8000er sometime in future. Main problem was snowfall in which lost temporary C1 and then high winds broke tents at C3.

  Chin died below BC apparently from altitude problem. Had climbed very slowly throughout, though went to 7100m in carry intended for C3.

  4 members in temporary C1 in avalanche but not hurt and went to ABC. This only avalanche. 2 members slight frostbite.

  Yoshio sick (nature of illness not clear to other members).


  Shrestha, Tourism - 14 Nov 1983

  Chin died on Chambabarg Kharka hill on Nov 7 at 13:00 hours. Left BC Nov 6 with expedition but could not keep pace with group and left behind and spent 6 Nov night in glacier below BC. Nov 7 Kazumi Nishihira (1956, Hiroshima) and 1 Sherpa (Dawa Thundup) went to look for him and found him in bad condition and took him down (carried) but at 1:00 pm Chin died. Miss Kei Inoue massaged Chin's heart but failed to revive him. Body cremated on 8 Nov on C. hill.

  Health of all others good. Ishii and Toba arrived KTM last night. 


  Shrestha, Tourism - 24 Oct 1983

  C1
  C2 6600m (date?) established by Nobutaka Kusano and Masayoshi Utsumi.
  All well. Weather continous snow, so climbing slow if necessary maybe ask 1 week extension [were granted 1 week extension].


  Hasegawa & Chin - 16 Sept 1983

  Hasegawa arrived KTM 15 Sept and leaves 19 Sept. Maybe waits for Chin's permit if leave KTM 19 Sept, arrive BC 1 Oct and climbs ridge first participating in making the camps and go as far as C3 at 7500m in perhaps 2 weeks to C3. Not to summit on this route then 1 week in BC and start solo ascent N Face maybe 25 Oct. 1 week to 10 days at first gate to about 6000m and return to BC. Finally push BC to summit with an summit 29 or 30 Oct and then descend via NW Ridge. 

  N Face route - new, not Pear route
  On face difficult rock band at 7500m area
  As Hasegawa descends ridge, other members may be in camps on ridge.

  Hasegawa has climbed Aconcagua South Face solo in winter in cold and very windy weather, so Dhaulagiri in late Oct "no problem." Also been to 8000m on Everest in great cold. He can arrive BC and go up immediately since he goes to 7000m twice every year (thus is acclimatized). This will be 2nd solo ascent of Dhaulagiri I. Kamuro made solo ascent but used Canadians C3 and fixed rope.


expid: DHA183303
peakid: DHA1
year: 1983
route1: NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Michel Metzger
sponsor: French Dhaulagiri I Expedition 1983
ascent1: 24th
approach: French Pass and Dhampus Peak
bcdate: 1983-11-08
smtdate: 1983-11-11
smttime: 1400
termdate: 1983-11-13
othersmts: Climbed Dhampus Peak (DHAM-833-01)
campsites: BC(08/11,4700m),Biv1(09/11,6400m),Biv2(10/11,7500m),Smt(11/11),Biv3(11/11,6000m)
routememo:
  BC  at site of Japanese BC just vacated
  Biv 1 above Col on NE Ridge
  Biv 2 at end of NE Ridge (same as Japanese just before them).

  This expedition reached Dhaulagiri I without permission.

  Only 1 tent each, had 18 kg loads. from BC to top in true alpine-style. Had acclimatized on Dhampus (summit 3 Nov, 3 nights on French pass, 2 nights on Dhampus pass). Began Dhaulagiri ascent 9 Nov 1:30 am. 11 Nov started ascent (9:30 am cold wind before) thinking too see route only but weather so good kept on to top (had gas for only one night more) via ridge without going onto face at all. Reached summit 2:00 pm and biv at 6000m at 10:00 pm. 12 Nov arrived BC 12:00 noon. Used Japanese ropes on ridge also useful, but not necessary. Had to wait for Japanese to leave mountain since French had no permit.


expid: DHA183302
peakid: DHA1
year: 1983
route1: N Face (Pear rte)
nation: France
leaders: Yves Astier-Perret
sponsor: French Dhaulagiri I Expedition
bcdate: 1983-10-01
smtdate: 1983-10-23
termdate: 1983-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6020m due to fresh snow and wind constantly (some avalanching & huge amount of snow)
campsites: BC(01/10,4650m),C1(15/10,5500m),C2(23/10,6020m),xxx(23/10,6020m)
accidents: None
routememo:
  BC at near Japanese 1982 autumn BC site.

  Fresh snow and wind constantly. Did have some avalanching in abnormally large amount of snow. Really needed Sherpas to help make tracks in deep snow.

  Difficult but not dangerous; not difficult to C2, difficulties came higher. In normal weather not much danger.


expid: NEMJ83301
peakid: NEMJ
year: 1983
route1: E Ridge from SW
nation: Japan
leaders: Junji Kurotaki
sponsor: Nepal and Hirosaki University Mt. Himlung Joint Expedition 1983
ascent1: 1st
bcdate: 1983-09-14
smtdate: 1983-10-27
smttime: 1605
campsites: BC(14/09,4300m),C1(26/09,5050m),C2(01/10,5690m),C3(18/10,6240m),Biv(26/10,6590m),Smt(27/10)
accidents: None serious; one Sherpa hurt finger with ice axe and could no longer bend it
routememo:
  Expeditions to Himlung prior to 1992 were probably climbing Nemjung.

  BC at east of glacier (beside glacier).

  No plan to put a C4 on ridge. Started from C3 on 27 Oct at 5:30 am and 2 from biv at 6590m at 6:30 am. On top 4:05 pm by all 4 summiters: biv men had to make route so moved more slowly then C3 men, who caught up with them. Strong wind but clear. Minami and Lama returned to C3 while other 3 to biv.

  S Ridge would be terribly difficult: glacier at bottom "not so good" and then difficult rock face below ridge itself. East Ridge is only route.

  From C3 to top along ridge difficult ice conditions (with soft snow over hard ice). Beyond C2 very sharp rock ridge which had to go round. Most difficult part of climb of climb was very steep final ridge.

  No serious accidents. One Sherpa hurt finger with ice axe and could no longer bend it.

  Leader did not take part in climbing at all.


expid: HIME83301
peakid: HIME
year: 1983
route1: S Face-W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hisatoshi Takabayashi
sponsor: Kagawa Worker's Alpine Federation Himalchuli Expedition 1983
bcdate: 1983-09-15
smtdate: 1983-09-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to fatal accident
campsites: BC(15/09,3800m),C1.ABC(21/09,4800m),C2(26/09,5600m),C3(6500m),xxx(30/09,6500m)
accidents: 2 killed by fall
routememo:
  BC south-southwest of main peak near glacier.

  After Sept 30 bad weather (snow and avalanche danger) so all in C1. On Oct 6 went to make C3 and 4 members Fujita, Hase, Kanazawa and Morisato carried personal equipment to go to C3 and other 4 members in support carrying supplies of food and tents with 2 Sherpas resting in BC for 1st summit attack after 5-6 days.

  1st team reached 6300m at flat place. 9:10 am one member slipped; all roped together and expected him to stop himself but he did not and pulled others (not strong belay because seemed safe place). All 4 slipped 200m. Hase died 9:15 am and Fujita 5 pm in tent near where he lay unable to move him.

  Kanazawa injured unable to go down from where Fujita died, but Morisato went down to C2 on 7 Oct. Helicopter went to C1 on 9 Oct which evacuated Kanazawa.

  Yes - want to do it [again] in 1985 or 1986.

  Route followed is easiest routes on Himalchuli.


  Mrs Otsu - 10 Oct 83

  Kanazawa has some fractures and breathing problem. Morisato in better condition. Kanazawa in Otsu's house and stays here at least 3-4 more days.

  Expedition abandoned. Others arrive KTM 18 Oct.


expid: KGUR83301
peakid: KGUR
year: 1983
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Shuichi Torii
sponsor: 1983 Miyazaki Kang Guru Expedition
ascent1: 8th,9th
bcdate: 1983-09-30
smtdate: 1983-10-19
campsites: BC(30/09,3600m),C1(02/10,4800m),C2(15/10,5800m),C3(18/10,6200m),Smt(19-20/10)
routememo:
  BC northeast of Meta village.

  Between C1 and C2 big icefall and crevasses = most difficult part; ice wall above C2, then C3 to W Ridge long ice wall. Route more difficult than expected: icefall and ice walls took more time to surmount.

  Noburo Ueno left team before BC because not well (58 years old).

  Oxygen used by 1 member who reached C3 and had to go down (medical use).


expid: MAKA83302
peakid: MAKA
year: 1983
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Masaaki Fukushima
sponsor: Bernina Alpine Club Makalu Expedition
bcdate: 1983-09-05
smtdate: 1983-09-22
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(05/09,5200m),C1(08/09,5700m),C2(17/09,6200m),xxx(22-23/09,6700m)
routememo:
  C2 to C3 very deep snow and other 2 members in poor health for long time. Easy but long route - very safe and easy.

accidents:
  None except 2 member's poor health: 1 old injury to back gave trouble after carrying many loads to C1, other had diarrhea long time


expid: MAKA83301
peakid: MAKA
year: 1983
route1: W Pillar
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Peter Hillary
sponsor: New Zealand Makalu Expedition
countries: Australia
bcdate: 1983-08-30
smtdate: 1983-10-14
campsites: BC(30/08,5360),C1(04/09,5900m),C2(14/09,6480m),C3(29/09,7100m),xxx(14/10,7600m)
accidents: 2 fatalities (1 by avalanche, 1 by fall)
routememo:
  BC probably at French 1971 C1.

  Carlos Buhler (US-Canada Makalu) - 9 June 84

  Buhler thinks it was foolish for New Zealanders not to have fixed rope in lower section of climb where they would have had to move often in carrying loads of rope, etc. up to higher parts. No wonder they lost a member here.


  2nd death (of Moorhead) on 15th Oct - 2 out of 4 members gone.

  Hard work making route from C2 to C3 because so much deep snow, it was necessary to excavate to get to rock for belays. By 14 Oct when reached 7600m had gotten to summit snowfields and were ready for summit push. Had climed all the hard part including great crack.


  Fred From - 27 Oct 83

  14 Oct Fred and Mark got to high point of 7600m fixing route to top of hard part of climb and just below French C5. No C4 even made as it would have been one a short distance above 7600m in final push.

  14 Oct returned to C3 snow cave at 7000m. Peter was in BC. Went there on 14th. 15 Oct Fred and Mark continued descent to BC. At about 10:45 Mark fell (why no idea) on easy ground, good snow, clear weather and light wind. He was 40m vertically below Fred and about 100m away. He cart-wheeled in big movement suggesting he tripped or stumbled and his body fell about 600m vertically. From never got closer than 100m, so no idea exactly what killed him. Was lying peacefully on his back, head down, arms across chest.

  Fred descended as quickly and safely as he could to find him since he'd disappeared from sight and to help him but from 100m could see no hope and too dangerous to go alone to him. Reached BC at dusk.
   
  2 days later Peter and Fred tried to reach body but wind too strong. Went to C2 6580m and Mark's body at about 6280m. Necessary to go up to C2 and then try to reach him. Returned to C1. Peter said he did not go back above C2 and Fred's fingers and toes too cold-affected to solo it, which would have been possible; otherwise neither of us understood the accident, so we didn't trust our judgement any more.

  Fred and Peter would like to return to West Pillar in pre-monsoon season when should not be so much snow and do climb alpine-style, not putting in fixed camps and rope as this autumn.

  Peter returning to KTM with baggage; arrives in 10 days, possibly much sooner.


  Makalu Expedition BC, 4 Oct 1983 - Peter Hillary

  Fred, Mark and I have returned from the mountain where we have had a tragedy. While Fred and Bill Denz were descending from C2 to C1 on the 3rd of October at 2 pm. They were caught in an avalanche. Fred managed to extricate himself and Bill who was below, was swept one hundred meters into a snow basin below the ridge. There was a considerable accumulation of avalanche debris and there was no sign of him to be found. From the time of avalanche and until 6:30 pm (dark) we probed in the debris and searched crevasses but to no avail. Mark and I were at C1 and ascended to assist Fred in the search. The accident occured at 6400m and he was swept to the southern side of the ridge where he was buried under 3-4 meters of snow. The avalanche was 500 meters wide and Bill's body has not been found nor any of his equipment.


  Report on accident involving the death of a member of the expedition.

  Fred From, Mark Moorhead and myself have returned to BC today from the West Ridge of Makalu where we have had a tragedy. While Fred From and Bill Denz were descending from C2 to C1 on the 3rd of October at 2 pm, they were caught in an avalanche. From managed to extracate himself and Denz who was below, was swept one hundred meters in a snow basin below the ridge on the southern side. There was a considerable accumulation of avalanche debris (the avalanche break being 500m wide) and Denz was buried under 3-4 meters of debris and consequently, we could find no trace of him or any of his equipment.

  The avalanche occurred at 6400m altitude. From the time of the avalanche and until darkness at 6:30 pm we probed the avalanche debris with a bamboo pole and ice axed and searched a nearby crevasse...but to no avail.

  Moorhead and myself were at C1 at the time and observed Denz's fall in the avalanche. We ascended to assist From with the search. Denz died in the avalanche and was unrecovered.


  Letter from Bill, Makalu BC - 13 Sept 1983

  We are progressing with the route satisfactorily we are all getting on well and what's more, it the weather continues to be reasonable we have to make our summit bid towards the end of September. C1 is at 5900m and we have soloed the ridge to C2 at 6420m which is a snow cave at the foot of the really steep. (This camp is in the same vicinity as Roskelley's C2).

  We hope to solo 1/2 way to C3 and fix the rock steps with rope. I expect to establish C3, at 7400m on about the 18th to 20t of September and then work on the main buttress done over the next 3 or 4 days. We hope to make a gear damp at the campsite sometime during the 21st to the 24th. Our C3 we hope to establish higher than the French/US camp so as to reduce problems for the summit day. Hopefully it will be at 7900m.


  Letter from Bill - 13 Sept 1983

  We have established C2 on the SW Pillar of Makalu at an altitude of 6480m. This is the same location as Roskelley's C2. We are using a safe roamy crevasse and have stocked it with food, fuel and rope. We go up to C1 tonight (amended height 5950m) and occupy C2 tomorrow. We hope to stay there for some time, working on the camps above.

  We fixed no new rope to C2 and used only 10m of old fixed rope. The French "Khumbakarna" expedition arrived 4 days ago and are carrying loads to their C1 on Makalu II. They also have permission for Baruntse.


expid: NILN83301
peakid: NILN
year: 1983
route1: SE Face
nation: Australia
leaders: Zac Zaharias
sponsor: Australian Army Nilgiri N Expedition
ascent1: 4th,5th
countries: New Zealand
approach: Pokhara->Lete->Mristi Khola
bcdate: 1983-10-08
smtdate: 1983-10-24
termdate: 1983-10-31
campsites: BC(08/10,4050m),C1(09/10,4500m),C2(16/10,5450m),C3(23/10,6150m),Smt(24,26/10)
routememo:
  BC on glacier southeast of mountain, 20 minutes from Annapurna I BC.

  Technical climbing between C2 and C3: fixed rope almost entire section. Steep and exposed, very sharp ridge or arrete and snow initially very soft in warmer weather than later on. 

  Some rockfall in band just below face hit members on helmets.

  Doctor ill and left early because of illness.


expid: ANN383302
peakid: ANN3
year: 1983
route1: W Face-NW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Jonathan Chester
sponsor: 1983 Australian Annapurna III Expedition
countries: UK
bcdate: 1983-09-22
smtdate: 1983-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 7135m due to strong winds
campsites:
  BC(22/09,4665m),C1(28/09,5030m),C2(30/09,5485m),C3(08/10,6095m),C4(19/10,6705m),Biv(22/10,7315m),xxx

routememo:
  BC on glacier southwest of Annapurna III
  C3 at NW Ridge.

  After 8th Oct was snowstorm of 3-1/2 days and then had to dig fixed rope out from under meters of snow. 22nd Oct, after having fixed ropes for 2 days, attempted push to top, got to top of S Face. 3 bivouacked at high point that night to do easy "trivial" long slope to top but next morning strong winds prevented any upward progress at all. Then another snowstorm night of 24th Oct buried ropes and had 2 frostbite cases, McDowell and Teague, who needed helicopter evacuation.

  Lot more technical than anticipated. C2 to C3 possibly variation of earlier expeditions.

  Adrian Teague and Jonathan Chester came out in Austrian Manaslu's helicopter; Teague frostbitten when fell asleep in unprepared biv and Chester next morning and in descent in storm.


expid: ANN383301
peakid: ANN3
year: 1983
route1: E Ridge (for acclim)
route2: SE Pillar
nation: UK
leaders: Nikola Kekus
sponsor: British Annapurna III Expedition 1983
approach: Pokhara->Seti Khola->BC
bcdate: 1983-09-05
smtdate: 1983-10-08
termdate: 1983-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to fatal accident
campsites: BC(05/09,3500m),ABC(11/09,4500m),Snowhole1(28/09,6100m),Snowhole2(06/10,6150m),xxx(08/10,6300m)
routememo:
  On 10 Oct started descent, came to bergschrund at about 6300m and went into crevasse here in very bad weather (white-out) and avalanches coming down mountain (1 buried both men and turning point in Uttley's health - middle night of 11th). 13th wind but clear and Pilling able get out but Uttley not. Left him with 5 days food and some fuel and met others at ABC on 14th. Very slow downwards because snow so deep and upwards movement even (on this frozen cover) and Pilling shattered. Again weather turned bad with avalanches and no actual effort made to go up. Uttley's condition when Pilling left was so bad he probably would just sink away.

  Pillar Ok but need period of 10 days.

  Were going halfway East Ridge as acclimatization and to put in snowholes with supplies in case needed to descend this way. Then would make ascent via SE Ridge Pillar. After Uttley accident never made try for Pillar.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 26 Nov 83

  Leader's reports death of Robert G. Uttley, born 1961, geology student, Sheffield, on approx 14 Oct due to pneumonia and related illness at 6300m on East Ridge of Annapurna III. He was accompanied by Trevor Pilling, born 1956, student, Worcester.

  The 2 men were caught in 5-day storm at this alitude (6300m). "Uttley's condition gradually deteriorating to state where he was unable to function and even attempt retreat without further assistance of more members. Eventually on 13 Oct Trevor Pilling had to retreat in order to save his own life. Attempts to conduct a rescue were useless as the weather conditions were very bad (new snow) and this may have endangered further life."

  All 4 members had reached altitude 6150m, but 2 numbers, Uttley and Pilling had reached 6300m on 8 Oct. In evening of 8 Oct weather broke and they tried to descend but due to heavy snowfall and wind they could not come down, they were in a crevasse at that altitude. It was decided to abandon expedition on 18 Oct and left BC on 20 Oct and arrive KTM 26 Oct (today).

  BC  3500m 5  Sept
  ABC 4500m 11 Sept
  C2  snowhole on East Ridge
      6100m 28 Sept
  Next snowhole on East Ridge 6150m 3 Oct

  Kekus and Jonathan Tinker (born 1959, laborer, leader) were at ABC during storm and tried to go up to rescue "but because of continuous bad weather they could not go up."

  All 3 survivors are well.


expid: DHA683301
peakid: DHA6
year: 1983
route1: W Face-W Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Albi Sole
sponsor: Canadian Expedition to Nepal Himalaya 1983
ascent1: 4th
countries: UK
bcdate: 1983-09-14
smtdate: 1983-10-11
smttime: 1300
termdate: 1983-10-20
campsites: BC(14/09),Smt(11/10)
accidents: Only problem was Down's recurrence of old symptoms from road accident before coming to Nepal
routememo:
  BC at Kaphe Khola near point 4100m on Dhaulagiri Himal map.

  Originally tried SW Face and then shifted to SW Ridge because of threatening weather that meant great avalanche danger on face. Very safe route, less challenging than expected, but very long route.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 24 Oct 83

  Canada Dhaulagiri VI
  1. Daniel George Griffith, 1950, mountain guide
  2. Leader Albert Sole
  3. Robert George Rohn, 1958
  4. Peter Carter

  From SW Face reached top at 1:00 pm and stayed 1 hour. Started at 8:00 am from unspecified camp - at 6:00 pm back in camp. No further attempts and will leave BC 20 Oct. All well.


expid: LSHR83301
peakid: LSHR
year: 1983
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Roger Marshall
sponsor: Canadian Lhotse Shar Expedition
countries: USA
bcdate: 1983-09-04
smtdate: 1983-10-21
termnote: Abandoned at 7925m due to route difficulties
campsites:
  BC(04/09,5275m),C1(05/09,5670m),C2(26/09,6100m),C3(17/10,6555m),C4(19/10,7010m),C5(20/10,7500m),xxx(21/10,7925m)

routememo:
  BC at 40 mins northeast of Island Peak BC.

  C1 to C2: lot of vertical ice very loose required lot of traversing to get around ice cliffs - plus lot of bad weather. Above C2 2 more icefalls, very steep ice cliffs of 500 ft, finally climbed ice ridge close to S Face which was dangerous from falling ice, then technical rock, then corniced knife ridge.


expid: MANA83302
peakid: MANA
year: 1983
route1: NE Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Heo (Huh) Young-Ho
sponsor: 1983 Korean Manaslu Expedition
ascent1: 17th
bcdate: 1983-09-14
smtdate: 1983-10-22
smttime: 1530
termdate: 1983-10-24
campsites: BC(14/09,4800m),C1(28/09,5200),C2(06/10,6400m),C3(07/10,7200m),Smt(22/10)
routememo:
  BC same site as Kato.

  In summit push, started from BC 16 Oct, on 19 Oct Heo (Huh) and Ang Jangbu Sherpa on C2 on 20 Oct they arrived C3. 21 Oct rested in C3 with strong wind. 22 Oct Huh left C3 alone with Ang Jangbu in C3. Left C3 3:30 am and reached top about 3:00-3:30 pm (in any case before Germans). 1000m to gain not so bad with his experience on Makalu. Returned to C3 7:30 pm. Last part hard snow and blue ice. Very tired on Huh's return to C3. BC on 23 Oct.

  Sherpas with him much of climb as far as C3. 2 Korean teammates went several times to C1.

  No fixed rope at all.

  Huh - 10 Nov 83
  (referring to his diary)

  14 Sept - BC established, snow fall
  28 Sept - slept C1 5200m 1st time. Huh alone in this period. 
  29 Sept - going towards C2 but snow and retreated to BC same day
  30 Sept - BC
   1 Oct  - went up with 2 Sherpas to C1 at 5200m 
   2 Oct  - rest C1 - snow
   3 Oct  - rest C1 - snow
   4 Oct  - to BC
   5 Oct  - BC to C1 5200m with 2 Sherpas
   6 Oct  - Huh and 1 Sherpa to C2 at 6400m - slept in C2
   7 Oct  - Huh and 1 Sherpa to C3 at 7200m and slept in C3
   8 Oct  - Huh alone to plateau 7600-7700m and back to C3 at night
   9 or 10  to BC and to Samagaon
  15 Oct  - leave Sama to BC
  16 Oct  - BC to site of C1 at 5200m - Huh and 2 Sherpas - biv in 
            snowhole because tents buried in snow
  17 Oct  - find 2 tents - in C1 that day
  18 Oct  - Huh and 2 Sherpas making route above C1
  19 Oct  - Huh and 1 Sherpa arrive C2 6400m - took up tents from C1
  20 Oct  - Huh and 1 Sherpa to C3 at 7200m - took up same tents
  21 Oct  - Huh and 1 Sherpa Ang Jangbu stay in C3 tents - very strong wind
  22 Oct  - Huh alone above C3 to top and again to C3 (Sherpa sick)
  23 Oct  - Huh and 1 Sherpa down: Huh to BC, sick Sherpa to C1 (other 
            Sherpa already at Sama)


  Khadga, Tourism Ministry- 27 Oct 83

  Huh Young-Ho, born 54, clerk, Je Cheon city
  Summit on 22 Oct at 3:30 pm
  Hit by avalanche and thrown 45m while going towards C2 (date not given)
  from C1 6400m
       C2 7100m
  and continued climb despite this - not hurt by this avalanche. Left BC 24 Oct.


  Sang Man-Bea - 20 Oct 83

  Huh and 2 Sherpas C3 made an about 7600m and then had to descend to BC because heavy snow. Same 3 started up again 15 Oct and maybe summit today. Sang stayed BC 15 days and went to C1.

  Sang will go by helicopter to bring Huh to KTM. Huh fell 50m into crevasse. 


  Shrestha, Tourism  Ministry- 13 Oct 83

  Established C2 7100m 5 Oct
              C3 7680m 7 Oct

  Bad weather down to BC 9 Oct plan to start up again on 11 Oct.


  Alwin Leitner - 11 Oct 83

  Austrians on Manaslu could see Korean expedition and could see four figures climbing NE Face, so not solo climb. Had no skis so moving more slowly than Leitner. 

  Koreans coming back to KTM, should arrive KTM 16 or 17 Oct.


  The Plan

  The next mountaineer to come with hopes for a solo ascent was a South Korean, Huh Young-Ho, a 29 year old cement company clerk  whose climbing experience also included a successful ascent of an 8000-metre mountain, Makalu, in the spring of 1982 on an expedition of which he was one amongst 16 members under another's leadership.

  Huh was to make the first solo climb of Manaslu, at 8163m the world's eight highest mountain. He would try an alpine-style ascent with no fixed camps, no oxygen cylinders and no companions. But one or two Koreans and two high altitude Sherpas would be with him at base camp, and if his solo attempt failed, then he would enlist their help, pitch three high camps and get to the summit on a non-solo ascent.

  The achievements 

  Meanwhile the South Korean Huh had tried his own solo assault on Manaslu. His base camp had been pitched at 4800m on 14 Sept, but a long period of heavy snowfall followed, for the monsonn had not finished here. At last on 28 Sept he was able to spend his first night at 5200m. Next day he was moving higher when snow began falling and he was forced to retreat to base. That was the end of his solo attempt.

  In early October Huh and two Sherpas twiced above up to C1 at 5200m and in the second push Huh and Ang Jangbu Sherpa went all the way to C3, which they put at 7200m. On 8 Oct Huh managed to get to Manaslu's summit plateau at perhaps 7600m, but once again bad weather forced a retreat.

  Huh's ultimate push commenced on 16 October. He and Ang Jangbu gained C3 again on the 20th, waited out the strong winds of the 21st and finally Huh, having climbed the very last part from C3 struggle against nearly 1000 vertical metres of mountainside in very strong wind with no artificial oxygen to make the climb on hard snow and blue ice any easier.

  Not far below the summit Huh had been met by three West Germans, an Italian and two Sherpas from a predominantly German expedition on Manaslu's South Face. He preceded them to the very top and then returned to his own C3 in four hours descent. He too was very weary when he joined Ang Jangbu in C3 but next day he went all the way down to base camp safely while the Sherpa, who was not well, stopped that night in C1.


expid: MANA83301
peakid: MANA
year: 1983
route1: E Ridge from N
nation: Austria
leaders: Wilfried Studer
sponsor: Vorarlberger Himalayan Expedition to Manaslu
bcdate: 1983-09-12
smtdate: 1983-10-07
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to dangerous conditions and cold weather
campsites:
  BC(12/09,4400m),Dep(15/09,4900m),C1A(15/09,5400m),C1B(17/09,5450m),C2(20/09,5900m),C3(06/10,6550m),xxx(07/10,7400m)

routememo:
  BC at north side start of East Ridge at foot of rocks.

  Very deep snow; had to cross very steep snow slope, was very cold; 200m above climbers were dangerous seracs and avalanche danger. Studer had very cold toes and feared more. Same day all C3 blown away. 2 summiters went down to C1. Frostbite to toes already partly lost on Eiger North Face.

  Leitner left few days early: weather had been continously bad and he needed to make arrangements in KTM for expedition.

  Heavy snowfall - in 3 weeks only 4 days any sunshine (a few hours in mornings). Wanted to climb above C3 alpine style: with little snow, this would be easy to climb East Ridge this way now deep snow besides no good place to make a C4.


expid: ANN183301
peakid: ANN1
year: 1983
route1: N Face (Dutch Rib)
nation: S Korea
leaders: Ahn Chang-Yeul
sponsor: 1983 Korean Annapurna I Expedition
bcdate: 1983-08-31
smtdate: 1983-09-11
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to fatal avalanche and lost supplies
accidents: Fatal avalanche at C2 (three fatalities)
campsites:
  BC(31/08,4300m),C1(04/09,5000m),C2(06/09,5500m),TempC3(09/09,6100m),C4site(11,19/09,6700m),xxx(01/10,6700m)

routememo:
  Avalanching between 11 and 19 Sept, then fatal avalanche struck on 24 Sept and Miss Kim again went up searching for lost material. She went to 6700m on 1st Oct in this search with 2 Sherpas for equipment and climb finished.

  After fatal avalanche, launched one more summit attack on 27 Sept from BC assuming C4 loads left there could be used, but when Miss Kim and Sherpas arrived at C4 site found most supplies gone in an avalanche and on 2 Oct weather turned bad again.

  Men were in C2 on fatal day in carry of food to crowded C3 where supplies running low.

  C2 swept by avalanche; others dug 2m down but could not locate bodies as entire camp disappeared.

  Three big avalanches hit empty C2 before fatal avalanche: once on 11-13 Sept and again between 14 and 21 Sept twice but no one hit.


  Panzeri, Italian Annapurna I - 24 Oct 83

  Koreans wanted to get to top in time for Korean holiday at end of Sept, so kept going in unsafe conditions.


  Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 10 Oct 83

  24 Sept at about 07:15 hours C2 swept by avalanche and not found. 3 also not found:

    Chung Yang-Kun, 1956, businessman, Meadong Dobong-Ku, Seoul
    2 porters, Maila Magar and Tika Ram Magar

  At time of avalanche 2 Koreans and 2 porters at C2; 1 Korean rescued:

    Kim Chung-Hwan, 1956, Seoul, businessman 

  by another Koreans who on same route to C2 are Koreans from C2 site 8:00 am.

  C4 established Sept 20, 7000m [6700m] and this maximum altitude. Abandoned climb after avalanche. Leader and 1 member Cho Soo-Hun arrived KTM yesterday; others arrive KTM about 12 Oct.

  Had had many small avalanches before. C2 had three previous serious avalanches, one time taken away. Leader was in C1 at time of accident.

  Kim was covered except his head, had to be dug out but could talk.
  Members in C3 on 24 Sept.


expid: ANN183302
peakid: ANN1
year: 1983
route1: NW Buttress
nation: Italy
leaders: Giuseppe Lafranconi
sponsor: Annapurna 1983 - Expedition Regione Lombardia to Annapurna I
bcdate: 1983-09-12
smtdate: 1983-10-08
termdate: 1983-10-16
termnote: Abandoned at 6250m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(12/09,3950m),C1(14/09,4900m),C2(19/09,5300m),C3(08/10,6250m),xxx(08/10,6250m)
accidents: None
routememo:
  BC at usual site for North Face teams.

  Bad weather: 2 meters snow in C1 and tents in C1 destroyed 2 times by avalanches and C2 once. Also Panzeri lost heart from rescue of Korean at C2. Only 8 of 32 days had good weather.

  Yes, with good weather by 4 alpinists and 2-4 Sherpas moving quickly [could succeed].


expid: ANN183303
peakid: ANN1
year: 1983
route1: S Face
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Andrej Stremfelj
sponsor: Slovenian Annapurna I Expedition
countries: Italy
bcdate: 1983-09-27
smtdate: 1983-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 6400 due to dangerous avalanche conditions
campsites: BC(27/09,4,000m),C1(29/09,4850m),C2(04/10,5350m),C3(18/10,6000m),xxx(22/10,6400m)
routememo:
  BC at Annapurna Sanctuary site of Bonington camp.

  Above C2 tried a route between Bonington 1970 and Japanese 1981 routes and reached 5900m on 7 Oct, but very dangerous from avalanches especially from boulders from rotten rock section. Then bad weather with heavy snow, even at BC. Had to re-establish C1 and C2 and 17 Oct began new route over to Bonington route (made C2 at same site as Bonington C3) and slightly to left of Bonington route, but again avalanche danger great and had to climb at night. Even so one member hit on back protected by rucksack. Decided to do to Bonington route alpine-style as safest way, but seracs came down this route also.

  Abandoned expedition Oct 26.


  Kunaver - 20 Oct 83

  Route: C2 at bottom of face; climb of the face begins above C2, which like C1 is on glacier.


expid: CHOY83301
peakid: CHOY
year: 1983
route1: S Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Tony Klingendrath
sponsor: Nepal-Italian Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 1983-09-12
smtdate: 1983-10-05
termdate: 1983-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to bad weather, shortage of time and illness of 2 members
campsites: BC(12/09,5280m),C1(15/09,5900m),xxx(05,08/10,6500m)
accidents: None except 2 Sherpas became sick
routememo:
  BC at south side of small lake north of Gyazumpa & south of point 5560m on 
     Schnedier map.

  Reached plateau of 6500m which think is top of difficulty, then big storm. Again reached by Giberna and Toso between 10 and 15 Oct. Then again more snow and found ropes buried and had to wait for snow conditions to improve and then on 20 Oct LO said time is up. Also 2 Sherpas sick. Yes [summit] if have 15 more days of good weather.

  Technical problems were above C1: snow and ice wall of 350m required fixed ropes finishing with rock wall, very long ridge route.

  800m fixed rope on rock and ice ridge above C1.

  3 members tried to climb to point 6515m but no success (after Cho Oyu attempt).


  Klingendrath - 7 Nov 83

  SW - too dangerous from hanging seracs.
  SE Face - same only worse avalanche and icefall.
  S Ridge - very long but safe. Needs big expedition. Most difficult part is 
    1st part (to 6500m) on wall of spur; plateau safe if not a lot of snow.
  E Ridge also safer, but from Ngojumba.


  Khadga, Tourism - 25 Oct 83

  Abandoned 20 Oct due to illness of 2 members, shortage of time and bad weather.
  19 Oct reached 6400m but could not establish C2 (where not said)
  23 Oct scheduled leave BC
  All Ok except 25 Sept 5900m


expid: CHOY83302
peakid: CHOY
year: 1983
route1: E Ridge via Ngojumba Kang
nation: Japan
leaders: Kazumi Shigeto
sponsor: Fukuoka Tozan Kenkyukai Cho Oyu Expedition 1983
bcdate: 1983-09-18
smtdate: 1983-10-16
termdate: 1983-10-19
termnote: Abandoned at 7730m due to high winds and snowfall
othersmts: Attempted Ngojumba Kang (NGOJ-833-01)
campsites: BC(18/09,5100m),ABC(21/09,5800m),C1(25/09,6100m),C2(02/10,6800m),C3(10/10,7300m),xxx(16/10,7730m)
primid: NGOJ83301
routememo:
  BC as planned southeast of large lake.

  1) no equipment screws and pitons 
  2) strong wind
  3) deep snow
  4) already 4:30 pm at high point so no time on 17th; they gave up because all climbers in no good condition from climb with deep snow; skis would have been very useful.

  Route went east of Lungsampa to point 6515m and up glacier towards point 7806m which is Ngojumba Kang.

  Leader left on business and Narisue took over. 


  Shrestha, Tourism - 21 Oct 83

  C3 to 15 Oct 7300m on Ngojumba Kang. 16 Oct Ang Rinjin Sherpa (member), Tatsuhisa Mitoma and Mamoru Kituchi reached 7730m, but because of high wind and snowfall abandoned whole expedition and returned to BC (date not given).

  19 Oct to leave BC.

  Nepalese members of this joint expedition were 5 Sherpas.


expid: NUMB83301
peakid: NUMB
year: 1983
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Andres Fernandez
sponsor: Madrid Expedition to Himalaya 1983 - Numbur
bcdate: 1983-10-05
smtdate: 1983-10-16
termdate: 1983-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to daily snowfall
campsites: BC(05/10,4600m),C1(07/10,5050m),C2(11/10,5500m),xxx(16/10,5900m)
routememo:
  BC at south shore of Dudh Kung Lake

  Daily snowfall. Reached most difficult part beginning with ice wall from 5900m and then above the ridge. Would take too long to make route up ice wall which was now covered with snow and would be corniced on ridge. Also running out of rope for fixing route all necessary sections. Only 6-7 days time left and some members not very well.


expid: CHRW83301
peakid: CHRW
year: 1983
route1: SW Face Spur-S Ridge of W Smt
nation: W Germany
leaders: Gustav Harder
sponsor: DAV (German Alpine Club) Training Exp 1983 to Churen Himal
bcdate: 1983-09-24
smtdate: 1983-10-10
termnote: Abandoned at 6850m due to fatal avalanche
campsites: BC(24/09,4200m),C1(27/09,4750m),C2(29/09,5400m),C3(01/10,5800m),xxx(10/10,6850m)
accidents: Fatal avalanche; 2nd degree frostbite for 4 members (no other incidents)
routememo:
  BC in Kaphe Khola little north of point 4100m on Dhaulagiri Himal map.

  On 10th Oct weather got bad and next couple of days also those who went to high point retreated to C3 and could not go down further because storm (wind and snow); also in C3 were Elsner, Hoess, Jans and Kruis because it was the day for 2 teams to change over the lead.

  S Ridge at beginning not possible - rock too loose. Planned to make C4 at c7000m on S Ridge. Most difficult parts: C1 to C2 (rock ridge + 100m rock section) and above C3 steep mixed rotten rock and ice all way to ridge.

  C3 (avalanche started only 15m above C3). Jans was digging snow cave to replace tent and he was carried 200m down and went up and started digging for others. Those who survived were Elsner, Fichter, Hoess, Kruis and Schmidt.

  Only 2nd degree frostbite for Elsner, Fichter, Jans, Hoess; no other accidents.


  Stelfox, et al, British (Irish) - 19 & 20 May 1984

  Germans in autumn 1983 used same route in much of their climb as Irish this spring. Irish found their camps, fixed ropes and two bodies 10m apart, one in a sleeping bag and other sitting up.

  Only route difference appears to have been between Irish ABC and C1.

  Route was up a spur on SW Face to South Ridge for West Peak.

  2 dead in avalanche; 5 came back by helicopter.


expid: GAUR83301
peakid: GAUR
year: 1983
route1: S Face-SW Ridge-S Smt
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Slavko Canker
sponsor: Celje Himalayan Expedition to Gaurishankar
bcdate: 1983-10-02
smtdate: 1983-11-01
termdate: 1983-11-07
termnote: Reached S Summit only
campsites: BC(02/10,3750m),C1(06/10,4750m),C2(16/10,5420m),C3(27/10,6200m),Biv(31/10,6600m),S-Smt(01,04/11)
accidents: Zupan lightly grazed by falling stone; 4 members little frozen fingers
routememo:
  BC at Tongmarmarg valley just east of lower "n" on Schneider map.

  Ascent route S Face to SW Ridge (joined British route on ridge at 6500m); highest point at S Summit; Descent route S Face To SW Ridge.

  Between C1 and C2 much snowfall which destroyed C1 and ropes. Between C2 and C3 much rock and icefall so could work only very early in morning when cold. Difficult rock climbing just above C2 at 5500m (100m high rock well) then moved climbing and again 50m rock wall - 60 degree steepness. Both days on S Summit very strong wind and cold. No attempt to go beyond S Summit. 1 more week needed to carry equipment and fix ropes. No time, ropes and strength left after 4 Nov (had received 1 week's extension). 

  C1 tent when empty of people struck by big rock. Climbed safest route on face: 100m to right something falling all the time. Most difficult climb ever made by Srot and Canker.

  Zupan lightly grazed by falling stone. 4 members bit frozen fingers.


  Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 9 Nov 1983

  Yugoslav Gaurishankar South face

  3 members started from C3 (6300 m) on 31 Oct via South Face and spent night of 31st biv at 6700m in snowhole and 1 Nov started from biv at 8:00 am and on South Summit (7010m).

  1) Smiljan Smodis, born 1957, student Celj
  2) Bojan Srot, born 1961, student Celj
     reached South Summit 13:50 pm
  1 leader Slavko Cankar on S summit at 15:20 hours.
  Strong wind and cloud and took photos
  All 3 spent 1 Nov night at C3

  3 Nov Franc Pepevnik (born 1959, merchant ,Sentjur), Joze Zupan (born 1954, teacher, Rimske Toplice) started from C3 on 3 Nov at 12:00 noon and spent night at 6700m same snowhole. 4 Nov started at 8:15 am and reached South Summit 11:00 am; strong wind but clear photo. Down to C1 4650m that day.

  Health: Franc Povesc and Ales Stopar injured their hands by stone at 6200m, so returned to BC but not serious.

  Leader's toes little frostbitten.
  Planned to leave BC 7 Nov


expid: GAN383301
peakid: GAN3
year: 1983
route1: SW Face
nation: Poland
leaders: Janusz Majer
sponsor: Polish Ganesh III Expedition 1983
bcdate: 1983-10-06
smtdate: 1983-10-23
termdate: 1983-10-28
campsites: BC(06/10,4300m),Biv1,Biv2,Biv3,Biv4,xxx(23/10,6800m)
accidents: Fatal fall by Hartman
routememo:
  This mountain previously known as Ganesh II until re-surveyed in early 1990's. 

  BC south of face.

  Some on 19th went to 6100m to prepare descent route to col between C2 and C3 and then Americans told them to go away.

  8-17 Oct very bad weather, so did acclimatization climbs of unmarred peaks below 6000m. 18 Oct 3 others started up on ascent route: 18-23 Oct in 5 bivs in powder snow and reached 6800m 23 Oct and then not possible to go more in alpine-style on such toothed rock. Same day descended to 6500m when Hartman, the man in middle in rappelling down, piton came out and or rock with piton came away. Wielicki went down to find/rescue him while Pawlowski did not want to go down but had sleeping bag - would not go without rope. Wielicki left BC 24th morning while on 23rd others started including Majer.


  Majer & Wielicki - 5 Nov 83

  23rd started up route not knowing accident had happened, but after 1st biv Sherpas reported accident so returned to BC. Rescue party then up and on 27th reached Pawlowski and brought him to BC. He had come down 100m.

  Left BC 28 Oct. Had seen body which had fallen more than 2000m and did not try again for top since

    (1) no time left, and 
    (2) made mistake in route above 4th biv: should have gone from there more
        directly to top.

  Face very dangerous: seracs and stones constantly falling.


  Shrestha, Tourism

  23 Oct: 

    Krzysztof Wielicki
    Andrzej Hartman
    Ryszard Pawlowski

  reached 6800m on South Ridge from S Face of Ganesh III. Same afternoon decided to give up due to difficult upper of S Face. 

  During rappelling down face had accident. At 1:00 pm Hartman fell down with rock piton and ropes to base of face from 6500m height. After this accident Wielicki came down without ropes to BC next day. During this time Pawlowski staying on S Face waiting for help. After 2-1/2 days 6 members rescued him on 27 Oct. Rescue team saw body of Hartman in a crevasse below S Face of Ganesh III and left it there because impossible to take it out. Left BC 28 Oct for KTM.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 30 Oct 83

  Andrzej Hartman fell from 300m below top on 23 Oct during descent South Face of Ganesh. Could not find body yet on 25 Oct says Sirdar Sonam Sherpa.

  Scheduled to leave BC 28 Oct.
  Summit success not known. No camp news.


expid: GAN483301
peakid: GAN4
year: 1983
route1: SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Richard Ranson
sponsor: Colorado Springs Himalaya Expedition to Mt. Ganesh IV
bcdate: 1983-10-07
smtdate: 1983-10-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to icefall conditions
campsites: BC(07/10,4330m),C1(08/10,5100m),C2(19/10,5800m),xxx(21/10,6400m)
routememo:
  Bad snow conditions constant snow and ice avalanching; the mountain is nothing but an icefall. No accidents, but one near miss when seracs fell 45 ft (14m) from climbers on 21 Oct.


  Ranson - 1 Nov 1983

  Gave up: bad snow conditions snow and seracs avalanches. 5 days of snow 10-15 Oct, then gave up on 22 Oct. High point 21,000 ft 21 Oct by: 
    Stan Kent
    Gordon Seibel
    Ganesh Gurung
    Nawang Sherpa

  BC at 14,200 ft 7 Oct planned
  C1 - 5100m - 8 Oct
  C2 - 5800m - 19-20 Oct

  C1 got buried under 6-7 ft of snow about 10 Oct; had to go back and dig it out. No one there at the time, all in BC.

  Avalanches every 10 minutes day and night.
  2 Nepalese above BC.
  SE Ridge as planned - same as Koreans
  Mountain is nothing but an icefall.

  No accidents. Ice serac block came 48 ft from one party on 21st. That turned them back from high point. 21 more seracs ready to fall also.
   
  No oxygen used; no frostbite or accidents, etc.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 30 Oct 1983

  Abandoned 21 Oct at 6400m because very difficult route, bad weather and shortage of time. Health Ok.
  BC 7 Oct 4300m
  Other camps not known.


expid: KTEG83301
peakid: KTEG
year: 1983
route1: S Face
nation: USA
leaders: Steven Brimmer
sponsor: 1983 American Kangtega Expedition
bcdate: 1983-10-04
smtdate: 1983-10-18
termdate: 1983-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6400 due to difficult icefall
campsites: BC(04/10,5030m),xxx(18/10,6250m)
accidents: 1 Sherpani porter going to BC for loads died in avalanche
routememo:
  BC at east end of Hinku Nuptse Glacier.

  On South Face: climbed to just over 20,000 ft to top of icefall and put cache there and returned to BC. Took 7 consecutives days work in icefall. At top icefall found crevasse 200 ft wide and continued width of icefall glacier at which point pulled all equipment and people back to BC and tried a route just east of icefall. Then 60-70 degrees mixed rock and snow which would have descent down from a rock ridge but took too long to rappel and decided that with permit specifying icefall didn't feel could not go farther then this to east.

  Worst icefall Sherpas had seen: crevassed and constant falling seracs; ladder useless. Recommend trying SE Ridge of gentle angled rock ridge on a yak patch to right of joined Hinku Nuptse and Hinku Shar Glacier. 

  14 Sherpa porters escorted by 4 expedition H-A Sherpas were swept by fresh snow avalanche at 10:30 am [on Oct 24 while approaching base camp for picking up loads for return march]. All swept down but 4 expedition Sherpas had had avalanche experience. 1 Sherpani buried under 15 ft of snow and was dead when finally found.


expid: AMAD83301
peakid: AMAD
year: 1983
route1: N Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Guido Bumann
sponsor: Swiss Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 23rd-27th
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1983-10-08
smtdate: 1983-10-22
campsites: BC(08/10,5100m),C1(15/10,5950m),C2(19/10,6300m),Smt(22-23,25-27/10)
accidents: Bumann and Senn fatal falls
routememo:
  BC at west side of Ama Dablam Glacier.

  Swiss route different from New Zealand from BC to C1 and then same as French 1978 autumn and Swiss same all the way. Difficult because of so much new snow: very difficult to find safe way.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 30 Oct 83

  Summit 22 Oct
    Hans Berger
    Rudolf Julier
    Fritz Maurer
    Beat Supersaxo

  Summit 23 Oct
    Christoph Jezler from C2 to top and to BC same day

  Summit 25 Oct 
    Jean-Pierre Wagnieres
    Stephan Welz
    Christoph Haueter

    Becker bivouacked at bit higher than C2 and got frostbite. Wettstein reached 
    C2 at midnight. Had accident between C2 and summit when Senn fell on him and
    crampons wounded him.

  Summit 26 Oct
    Sirdar Ang Kami 25 reached summit alone from C2.

    Wettstein and Senn stayed this night at C2.

  Summit 27 Oct
    Joerg Kindschi

  On 27th Bumann, Wettstein and Ang Karma bringing Senn to BC. Bumann and Senn fell, other 2 were away and did not see in complete darkness who fell first. Few people had come up to pass from BC with tea and with their help Bumann and Senn found. Bumann unconscious and brought to BC, but Senn dead.

  28th Senn body brought to BC. Bumann's body to be buried or cremated not yet instructed; Senn to be buried.

  Senn spent night of 25 Oct a little above C2. Max to C2 and informed others they needed help - reached C2 9:00-10 pm. No one knows which person slipped and fell. Accident [on 27 Oct] happened at easy part after bottom end of ridge. None except Senn fell short distance in couloir and her crampons wounded Wettstein's frostbite: very little loss of toes and more of finger.


  Khadga, Tourism - 28 Oct 83

  Mrs Maya Senn and Max Wettstein are seriously injured and helicopter requested in report yesterday. Mrs Senn died according to report today. Helicopter this afternoon went for Wettstein, met expedition representative below BC when Wettstein was not there, pilot instructed them to bring to same spot tomorrow morning.


  Press Release

  Climbing a difficult route on the north ridge of their 6812m mountain, which is near Mount Everest, four members reached the summit on Oct 22. They included the expedition's climbing leader, Hans Berger, 35, from Davos-Frauenkirch, Switzerland.

  Wettstein managed to return to the team's highest camp at about 6200m at nearly 10 o'clock that night to tell others about their weak condition and need for help. But Miss Senn spent the night alone a little distance above the camp and its shelter. Both had frostbite and Wettstein slight head wounds from a minor accidents when Miss Senn fell on him and the steel spikes fitted to her boots cut him.

  It was during their descent on Oct 27, the day after they had attempted to go to the summit, when Miss Senn was being helped down the mountain side by Bumann, that these two, who were roped together, fell, killing Miss Senn outright and so injuring Bumann so that he died a day later at BC.

  Wettstein was not involved in this fall, but his condition required helicopter evacuation to KTM. Supersaxo came with him and said last night that Wettstein is not really seriously ill, although he is staying in hospital here for a few days.

  The other surviving members are expected to return here on Nov 2 after having buried their two teammates bodies near base camp.


expid: AMAD83302
peakid: AMAD
year: 1983
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Raymond Renaud
sponsor: French Expedition to Ama Dablam
ascent1: 28th-32nd
countries: Belgium, Switzerland
bcdate: 1983-10-27
smtdate: 1983-11-05
termdate: 1983-11-14
campsites: BC(27/10,4400m),C1(28/10,5000m),C2(29/10,5200m),C3(31/10,5900m),C4(03/11,6200m),Smt(05-09/11)
routememo:
  BC at west side of Mingbo airfield.

  Some 200m very steep ice between C3 and C4, then soft snow above C4 to top. Zaugg's job required earliest return, but he went to summit and left only few days before rest of team.


  Shrestha Tourism - 14 Nov 83

  Ama Dablam from LO:

  10 Nov - 4 members and 1 Sherpa sirdar reached summit:

    Leader Renaud
    Joel Coqueugniot, 1975 
    Gerard Vionett-Fausset,1953
    Jean-Francois Magnificat, 1950 
    Sirdar Lhakpa Norbu Sherpa, 31

  Stayed 30 minutes on top, flags on top, all well.
  No more attempts for summit; leave BC 14 or 15 Nov.


expid: CHOB83301
peakid: CHOB
year: 1983
route1: NE side
nation: Austria
leaders: Ernst Gritzner
sponsor: Chobuje Expedition 1983
approach: Rolwaling Valley
bcdate: 1983-09-29
smtdate: 1983-10-08
termdate: 1983-10-17
campsites: BC(29/09,4500m),C1(02/10,5080m),C2(07/10,5850m),xxx(08/10,6150m)
routememo:
  BC northwest of top end of Tsho Rolpa
  C1 at lake, north of point 4561 on Schneider map.

  Fatal avalanche took two lives and destroyed considerable amount of equipment in C2. Snow much better than German route, but best route is from SW as marked on postcard. Both bodies found eventually and buried at C2.

  2 Gritzners were in C2 night of 10/11 Oct but Karl Gritzner got fever/headache from sun and wanted to go down on 11th and brothers volunteered to go down with him as not safe to descend alone; 2 brothers reached BC 6:30 am. 

  Yes, could have done so [reached summit] in few more days. From glacier northeast of mountain climbed up icefall to rib then slope. C2 in place safe from avalanches but perhaps wind from avalanche [caused fatal accident].

  Took 9 hours to get to C2 because so much snow and arrived at 5:00 pm. Took time to find one of 2 tents. Found Pfeifer in one of them dead under snow; descended on 14th. Reiss and Becker again up to search at C2 on 15th.


  Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry- 18 Oct 1983

  2 members were at C2 on 11 Oct and members at BC tried to contact by walkie-talkie at 8 pm but no contact. Bad weather in 1/2 meter snow. 12th morning again tried to contact C2 but no response all day.

  3 members from C1 started to C2 (on date unknown). Found tents buried under snow at C2. Digging in snow under one tent, found of Karl Pfeifer because its late at night they could not search other members tent. Other man was Udo Ertl.

  3 searchers returned to C1. 2 of them stayed in C1 and BC at midnight (date still not known) and said 2 now in C2 died of suffocation from an avalanche leader mate on 14 Oct.

  The next day if possible 3 members try to go to C2 to find Ertl's body.

  C1 - 5050m
  C2 - 5850m
  Why climb abandoned not said.


  Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry

  4 members left BC to return to KTM (says LO on 1 Oct):
    Schreidl
    Schaffelhofer
    Frosch
    Vogl
  Others to start climb 2 Oct.


expid: GLAC83302
peakid: GLAC
year: 1983
route1: SW side
nation: Poland
termnote: Termination reason unknown
campsites: xxx(6500m)
routememo:
  Partly on the same route as the Austrian team on that season, partly on the different route. 

  Source: Rudi Mayr, leader, Austrian Glacier Dome


expid: GLAC83301
peakid: GLAC
year: 1983
route1: SW side
nation: Austria
leaders: Wolfgang Nairz, Rudi Mayr
sponsor: Austrian Glacier Dome Expedition
ascent1: 9th
countries: W Germany
bcdate: 1983-10-14
smtdate: 1983-10-22
smttime: 1600
campsites: BC(14/10,4400m),C1(15/10,5200m),C2(16/10,5950m),Smt(22/10)
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC down south of Fluted Peak.

  5 left C2 at 3:30 am 22 Oct on top. 4 at top 4:00 pm and Oelz at 4:30 pm. At 150m below summit Amann found very sick from altitude and thin clothing and 1 glove (was crazy) at about 5:30 pm. Oelz very exhausted and it was very cold (-35 degrees C). Had no rope because not difficult technically. Mayr and Kleissl down with Amann and arrived C2 at 8:00 pm in full moon despite Amann's fall into crevasse. 2 Sherpas arrived 9:00. Oelz having gone astray, partly because of German voice "heard" and fallen down steep ice, at 12:00 took biv in terrible icefall. BC saw him wave for help. Slept 2 hours then understood his position and went down SW Face to BC. Very steep and avalanching, went down with avalanche 100-300m flying and turning over: "I used all the luck" - stopped 400m above C2. Other Austrian summiters got him down to C2 at 9 pm on 23rd.

  No more to top because 20 cm fresh snow fall night of 23/24 Oct. Very dangerous between C1 and C2 and a little higher overhung by huge seracs that avalanched. Icefall in this area not very difficult but more dangerous than Khumbu Icefall.

  Oelz may loose tips of 3 left toes to frostbite, Amann only slight frostnip.

  Nairz left Nepal on urgent business call from home.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 23 Oct 83

  BC - 14 Oct 4400m
  C1 - 15 Oct 5200m
  C2 - 17 Oct 6000m


  Deepak Lama, MT - 11 Oct 83

  Wolfgang Nairz received urgent Telex from his office and had to return to Austria; came to KTM on 9th and left Nepal on 10th.

  Rudi Mayr authorized to lead expedition.


expid: KANG83301
peakid: KANG
year: 1983
route1: N Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Denis Bertholet
sponsor: Swiss Expedition 1983 to Kangchenjunga
ascent1: 15th
approach: Ghunsa->Pangpema (BC)
bcdate: 1983-09-10
smtdate: 1983-10-21
smttime: 1720
termdate: 1983-10-26
campsites:
  BC(10/09,5000m),C1(17/09,5300m),C2(18/09,5800m),C3(30/09,6650m),C4(19/10,7250m),C5(20/10,7750m),Smt(21/10)

routememo:
  BC at Pangpema meadows.

  No more on top because strong wind next day. Rieben went upon 22rd a little but back without success. Were also ready to go for Yalung Kang summit, but avalanche danger too great and all down to C1 that day and to BC on 23rd and left 26 Oct.

  Had 2 long spells of bad weather and feared when had only gotten to C3 that would have no success.

  Did not use Japanese route because too many avalanches onto 1st icefield.

  From C5 route to Yalang Kang looked more difficult and more risky from avalanches than to main summit.

  Bruchez has frostbite which will heal, but Michellod may lose some toes which froze while digging C5 snowhole.


  Khadga, Tourism - 1 Nov 83

  Report of members now in KTM:
  C1 5450m
  C2 5800m
  C3 6650m 1 Oct and 4 members here 5 days because bad weather
  C4 7250m 18 Oct
  C5 7650m 20 Oct
  21 summit 1) Marco Bruchez at 5:20 pm
            2) Vincent May and went down to C5 at 8:30 pm in moonlight
  22 Oct - 2 summiters and 3 others left C5 to C2
  23 Oct - all material to BC
  24 Oct - strong wind destroyed BC. Bruchez and Dominique Michellod
           treated for deep frostbite in feet and hands
  25 Oct - 3 left BC to come to KTM by helicopter from Ghunsa; others left
           BC and should arrive KTM 5 Nov

  No attempt on Yalung Kang.

accidents:
  Bruchez has frostbite which will heal, but Michellod may lose toes which froze while digging C5 snowhole


expid: KANG83302
peakid: KANG
year: 1983
route1: SW Face
nation: France
leaders: Pierre Beghin
sponsor: Kangchenjunga 1983
ascent1: 14th
bcdate: 1983-09-15
smtdate: 1983-10-17
smttime: 1500
termdate: 1983-10-24
campsites: BC(15/09,5300m),C1(23/09,6250m),C2(29/09,7200m),C3(08/10,7700m),Smt(17/10)
achievment: 1st solo ascent
routememo:
  BC a little below Japanese and French BC.

  Left altimeter on top tied to Japanese oxygen bottle (later found by Swiss).

  Started climb on 17 Sept and mode three carries 45-50 kgs total, fixed ropes on route. Down to BC on 24 Sept for rest and better weather. 27 Sept again in C1 and on 28 Sept to 7050m and again snow so to C1. On 29th to C2. 30th to gully at 7300m and to C1 and on 1st Oct to BC. Weather bad until 6 Oct. Left BC on 6 Oct for 1st summit bid and reached C2 on 7 Oct and took this tent on 8 Oct to 7700m. On 9th tried for top but got about 8000m before went back in snow and cloud on top, so back to BC on 9th more bad weather. 

  14th started up again: 14th in C1, 15th in C2, 16th in C3 and 17th on summit. Started at 5:00 am and reached top at 3:00 pm and returned at 8:00 pm on 17th, in bright moonlight but had to search for about 1 hour for C3 (was very tired, no food and water and altitude). On 18th down to point where most others who came up to meet and help salvage equipment at about 7200m. At BC on 19th. No real help from others except to save equipment.

  Had some route finding problems because of need to go around crevasse. Fixed 100m rope and again 200m (2 sections) below C1 and also used some old ropes; also 50m just below Great Shelf in seracs on very narrow ledge (most dangerous pass).

  No injuries except slight frostnip of toes and fingers; fell twice into crevasse to waist.


  Pierre Beghin - 5 Nov 1983

  I think it is difficult to say: "so happy, but so tired." The very happy because at the climb alone I began in March to organize expedition - during 6 minutes "very anxious" since all depended on him.

  "For me it was bigger achievement" than technical difference W Face of Manaslu which he climbed with Muller. "There is some fascination to be alone" but also very hard moments in camp when you are alone and you think a lot." When climbing is Ok.


  Mrs Ranville - 27 Oct 1983

  Beghin did entire climb absolutely alone. All load carries. everything.

  She left BC on 17 Oct when he was going to top. He should have left BC about 24 Oct to arrive KTM about 1 Nov.


  Khadga, Tourism - 26 Oct 1983

  Beghin summited 17 Oct at about 4:00 pm.
  Team scheduled to leave BC 23-24 Oct.
  Herve Ranville and wife left BC 17 Oct.
  No details of climb.


  Letter from P. Beghin, BC 5400m - Sept 17th

  Our BC was established two days after an approach march 19 days long. From Hile to Yamphudin in 10 days with 38 porters (25 ropes by day); from Yamphudin to Ramche; 4 days with Yamphudin porters (200 ropes). From Ramche (4500m) to BC normally 3 days but 28 from our 35 porters decided to come back. So with 7 porters remaining it took 6 days. We helped them to carry, so we paid 600 rupees by charge between Yamphudin and BC and shoes and food to provide.

  This morning I carry to 6200m about on the ridge before the cliff to climb down - heavy snow-cloudy, 3-1/2 hours. Some crevasses to take care because I was alone. I plan to carry the gear I need in 3 times. Monsoon is not finished. Fair weather in the morning, monsoon before noon.


expid: BARU83302
peakid: BARU
year: 1983
route1: SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Robert Mandin
sponsor: Barunste Expedition
bcdate: 1983-09-22
smtdate: 1983-10-11
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(22/09,5150m),C1(24/09,5650m),C2(29/09,6200m),xxx(11/10,6300m)
accidents: Roger Mandin edema and phlebitis
agency: Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
routememo:
  BC as planned (same general area).

  Too much deep snow. 

  Roger Mandin's legs afflicted by apparent altitude illness and one member had minor injury.


  Mailhe - 1 Nov 1983

  Camp dates and altitudes Ok.
  BC same area as Faure and Hillary BC's though not very close.
  Route = SE Ridge classic route.
  29 Sept and about 11 Oct to C2 - a little above to C2 to about 6300m about 11 Oct by Rubin and Mrs. Marie Claire. Not higher because too deep snow. Did not have much avalanche - on ridge.

  2 Sherpas above BC. Route not very difficult, big problem was snow. Abandoned decision on 12 Oct. 1 member hurt by stone but apparently not serious.


  Veziers, GHA - 20 Oct 1983

  No success; reached C3 at about 6300m and then quit. Roger Mandin has gone back to France with his high altitude illness while father flies to Tumlingtar tomorrow. Expedition to fly from Tumlingtar to KTM about 28 Oct and leave Nepal 8 Nov.


  Bernard, French Embassy - 16 Oct 1983

  Helicopter today brought Roger Mandin and his father from place 2 days below BC to KTM. Roger had edema from altitude and then developed phlebitis in both legs. Roger goes to Delhi and have with embassy's doctor as soon as possible. Father Andre awaits rest of expedition in KTM.


  Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism - 8 Oct 1983

  1 member Roger Jacques Mandin very sick and taken to Makalu BC to send him to KTM. Please rush helicopter to Khanbari immediately says message of today from LO from K. Agents plan flight tomorrow. Cause of illness not given.

  BC 22 Sept 5150m on Barun Glacier, LO reported that day. Health condition good except Mailhe, Andre Mandin and Francoise no so good.


expid: MAK283301
peakid: MAK2
year: 1983
route1: W Face-S Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Frederic Faure
sponsor: Stendhal Kumbhakarna Expedition 1983
ascent1: 10th
bcdate: 1983-09-10
smtdate: 1983-09-28
smttime: 1400
termdate: 1983-09-30
othersmts: Attempted Baruntse (BARU-833-01)
campsites: BC(10/09,5300m),C1.ABC(6700m),C2,C3,Smt(28/09)
routememo:
  BC as planned.

  On Baruntse had very bad weather. All members got to point 7057m, N Summit, on 15 Oct. Big cornices ahead so not worth trying for main summit with this danger. Same route as Jaeger probably.

  1st part of Baruntse was problem because of cornices.


  Prachanda Khadga, Ministry of Tourism - 27 Oct 83

  Baruntse abandoned often reached 7057m 15 Oct by all six members. Reason not given for giving up, nor from where started on 15th. Left BC 19 Oct.

  Makalu II SW Face: 
  28 Sept all 6 members started from C3 (altitude not known).
  6:30 am and reached top from SW Face at 2:00 pm, stayed 1 hour and took photos on top. Left at 3:00 pm and returned to C3 at 6:30 pm. 
  29 Sept all members back in BC at 3:00 pm.
  All in good health.

  From 2 Oct plan climb Baruntse via N Ridge.


expid: TUKU83301
peakid: TUKU
year: 1983
route1: N Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Michel Pelle
sponsor: French Tukuche Expedition
approach: Pokhara->Dhampus Pass
termnote: Abandoned due to deep snow on Dhampus Pass
agency: Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
routememo:
  This expedition had permission for N Ridge ascent, but deep snow in Dhampus Pass turned them back before base camp.


expid: GANG83302
peakid: GANG
year: 1983
route1: N Face-NE Ridge
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Stane Belak
sponsor: Yugoslav Gangapurna Expedition 1983
ascent1: 6th
approach: Dumre->Manang->BC
bcdate: 1983-10-08
smtdate: 1983-10-27
smttime: 1240
termdate: 1983-10-30
campsites: BC(08/10,4900m),ABC(10/10,5300m),C1(15/10,5600m),C2(17/10,6150m),Smt(27/10)
routememo:
  BC same as Japanese 1981 autumn

  Early (2:00 am) started from C2, fixed last rope from 7000m on ridge and reached 12:40 pm. Tratnik started from BC on 27th and reached top at 1:00 pm. Very strong wind so could not stand up, but clear weather: "very nice view."

  Fixed rope to ridge and on 26 Oct start for top from C1 (except Tratnik who went up from BC after recovery from stonefall). 1200m total fixed rope. Only difficult part was between C2 to ridge at about 7000m - 60-65 degrees steep, mostly hard ice.

  Tratnik hit by stone and Brisar hit by serac but nothing very serious.

  1 trekker was on mountain only 1 week.


  Novak - 22 Oct 83

  Started from Dumre 28 Sept,
  arrived Manang 7 Oct
  arrived BC     8 Oct 5200m
          C1     9 Oct 5500m
  then constant snow 3 nights and 4 days up to 2m snow cover.
  13 Oct all to C1 making route through snow and found all tents ruined.
  14 Oct replace C1 tents, etc.
  15-16 Oct making C2 (Novak left on 16 Oct) at about 5900m.
  All members well.

  [Marjan] Novak must go home to his job.


expid: GANG83301
peakid: GANG
year: 1983
route1: E Ridge from S
nation: USA
leaders: Charles Sinclair
sponsor: Stanford Himalaya Expedition to Gangapurna
bcdate: 1983-10-01
smtdate: 1983-10-06
termnote: Abandoned at 5335m because only one high altitude tent left for 8000 ft ascent
campsites: BC(01/10,4420m),C1A(03/10,4815m),C1B(07/10,5030m),xxx(09/10,5335m)
routememo:
  BC south of Gangapurna on moraine of east branch of Modi Khola.

  2nd C1 on morning of 11 Oct 5 people in camp when huge avalanche buried camp and occupants Cox, Coons, Hazebrouck, King and Tompkins. Tompkins' tent ripped open and got out and rescued his wife Coons. King cut his tent open and stuck hard out above snow. Cox and Hazebrouck sharing tent and Cox turning blue as he was pulled out after only 4 minutes had struck. No permanent harm done, but all 3 tents destroyed and geared mostly buried beyond salvaged. All come down to Australian Annapurna III C3 and stayed there 2 nights unti could safely reach BC, which did through hip and shoulder-deep snow at dusk on 13th.


expid: AMAD83401
peakid: AMAD
year: 1983
route1: SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Nam Sun-Woo
sponsor: 1983 S Korean Ama Dablam Winter Expedition
ascent1: 33rd,34th
bcdate: 1983-11-28
smtdate: 1983-12-05
smttime: 1150
campsites: BC(28/11,4950m),C1(01/12,5670m),C2(03/12,5950m),C3(04/12,6170m),Smt(05-06/12)
agency: Amtrek
routememo:
  BC at French 1983 autumn C1 site; same site as south pass 1981 BC.

  Nam alone because sirdar went down to C2 and Nam thought weather was going to change.


  Banskota, Ministry of Tourism - 11 Dec 83

  Nam reached top at 11:50 am 5 Dec. Left C3 (6170m) at 6:00 am and returned to C3 14:30 hours.

  6 Dec Lim and Kim started for top from C3 at 6:30 am and Lim reached top at 11:00 am and Kim 11:10 am. Lim stayed 30 minutes and Kim 20 minutes; returned to  C3 at 1:30 pm.
   
  Are in KTM in good health. Weather fine but windy.

  Used no Sherpas.

accidents:
  From C3 to top very steep and dangerous, so sirdar did not want to try for summit. Did not use fixed rope but 11 pitches snow anchor and Nam abseiled down


expid: ANN183401
peakid: ANN1
year: 1983
route1: N Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Tadao Sugimoto
sponsor: Tokyo Shigaku Club Expedition to Annapurna I (Winter 1983-84)
bcdate: 1983-11-27
smtdate: 1983-12-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to strong winds
campsites: BC(27/11,4250m),C1(01/12,4900m),C2(03/12,5400m),C3(10/12,6200m),xxx(18/12,6900m)
agency: Express
routememo:
  Watanabe and Imada got frostbitten toes on Dec 18 (Imada was between C3 and C4 with Sugimoto), so with 2 of 4 members and 2 Sherpas injured, expedition had to stop. Was no sunshine on North Face, but did not feel cold. Dec 1-16 or 17 no wind, but then wind became strong.

  19 Dec Watanabe could not descend from biv because very strong wind. 20 Dec he could descend only that day, the day all came down to BC. Watanabe frostbitten feet on 18th.

  Sugimoto: "I don't like big expeditions."

  Panima Sherpa struck by piece of ice between C2 and C3 on Dec 11 and on 18th Phurba Tshering fell in crevasse near C3 and hurt his backside. Watanabe and Imada frostbite will result in same loss at ends.

accidents:
  Panima Sherpa struck by piece of ice between C2 and C3 on Dec 11 and on 18th Phurba Tshering fell in crevasse near C3 and hurt his back side; Watanabe and Imada frostbitten will result in some loss at ends


expid: KGUR83401
peakid: KGUR
year: 1983
route1: W Face-W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Koichi Kato
sponsor: Den Den Sangaku Doshikai Kang Guru Expedition
ascent1: 9th
bcdate: 1983-12-05
smtdate: 1983-12-18
smttime: 1415
termdate: 1983-12-22
campsites: BC(05/12,3800m),C1(07/12,4600m),C2(09/12,5750m),Biv(17/12,6200m),Smt(18/12)
agency: Himalayan Journeys
routememo:
  BC at Nar Khola near Meta.

  Baba left BC alone on 17 Dec in summit attack. Kato later went up to C1 same day. 18 Dec 7:10 am Baba left biv and reached top 2:15 pm and returned to C1 while Kasugai to C1 and Umezaki went to Nar Hill to be able to watch Baba (could not see summit from BC) 19 Dec. Baba descended to BC at 2:00 pm. Kato stayed C2 while Kasugai up to C2 and back to C1. 20 Dec all in BC. Plan was to put only member on top.

  Not difficult mountain but this first winter attempt. Hidden crevasse at 6200m on 12 Dec Baba almost fell into at night.


  Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 22 Dec 1983

  Hiroryki Baba to summit 18 Dec. 17 Dec Baba started from BC 6:30 am and bived at 6250m at 7:15 pm. 18 Dec started towards top at 7:15 am and reached it 2:15 pm from SW Face. Hoisted Japanese, Nepal and Den Den Expedition Club flags 5 minutes. Biv 19 Dec. Returned to BC at 12:15 pm after departure, ex-biv at 7:00 am in good health. No further top attempts. Leave BC by 22 Dec.


  Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 18 Dec 1983

  Kang Guru plans:

  15 Dec were in BC
  16 Dec relax BC
  17 Dec to C1
  18 Dec to C2
  19 Dec to summit
  20 Dec to C1 or C2
  21 Dec to BC

  C2 established by Hiroyuki Baba and Kasugai and returned to BC 15 Dec 4:30 after problems where route goes above C2.


expid: NUMB83401
peakid: NUMB
year: 1983
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kensuke Kikuchi
sponsor: Takasaki Economics College Mt. Numbur Winter Expedition 1983
ascent1: 5th,6th
bcdate: 1983-11-23
smtdate: 1983-12-11
campsites: BC(23/11,4700m),C1(01/12,5250m),C2(05/12,5750m),C3(10/12,6200m),Smt(11-12/12)
accidents: Nashiba left BC on 25 Nov as planned (not climbing member)
agency: Express
routememo:
  Hitachi believes 1963 Japanese team did succeed: their account proved very accurate, time to reach top reasonable and description of top and rock just below accurate.

  Above BC traversed rock wall to its northwest. C1 beside rock ridge and C2 on rock ridge. C3 on snow ridge in snowhole because strong wind. Final assault from C3 via SW Ridge to top not so difficult. Difficulty between C2 and C3 ice and steep snow ridge. Winds were real problem: Hitachi wants to return to Nepal, but not again in winter.


expid: TILI83401
peakid: TILI
year: 1983
route1: N Face-N Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Yong-Ho
sponsor: Korean Alpine Guide Association Tilicho Peak Expedition
ascent1: 10th
bcdate: 1983-11-26
smtdate: 1983-12-11
smttime: 1030
accidents: No accidents or avalanches; Kim's altitude illness passed quickly
agency: Sherpa Cooperative Trekking (SCT)
campsites:
  LowBC(26/11,4200m),BC(05/12,4800),Biv1(07/12,5700m),Biv2(08/12,6100m),Biv3(09/12,6500m),Biv4(10/12,7000m),Smt(11/12)

routememo:
  Low BC east of Tilicho Lake on west side of lake.

  On 10 Dec Kim got altitude sickness and Lee descended with him to 6500m biv. On 11 Dec Yoon and Jang 4th biv to top and down to 3rd biv where joined Lee and Kim. On 12 Dec all 4 men to BC.

  Swiss route too much soft snow and N Ridge very long with broken rock, so went to big steep 900m high couloir of snow and ice. Had little supply of fixed rope and used little if any.

  Approach to low BC very steep and dangerous. Had to cut steps and some porters refused to go this BC but there is firewood. To high BC difficult to find route and very steep and rolling stones. Tilicho Lake was frozen and could walk across it.


  Report of Climbing Tilicho by Leader Lee Yong-Ho

  On November 19, we set out for Tilicho. It was Nov 24 when we passed through the last village of Manang, where we had found all the way from Kanshara to Low BC being destroyed badly as there had been no one who passed the way until we got there. We had to fix them up. It was really hard work and we felt like exhausted all our energy there, moreover we had to have porters move all the way by the help of ropes. We got to Low BC 4200m high on Nov 26. There all the porters gave up and went back. Only seven persons were left, we four alpinishts, a region officer, an old sardar and a kitchen boy.

  Now what we got to do from now on have to be done by ourselves. On Nov 27 we began to transfer our cargo up to Tilicho Lake. It took five days to cross the lake and to get to the high BC which is very start line of our climbing. It was Dec 5 that we could finish transferring all our cargo. It was really hard work because of no high land porter to help us and even an old sardar and region officer did not give us any help, but only the kitchen boy assisted us for three days before we get to Tilicho Lake. It is in fact really more than we can explain how hard we worked. We were tired and we had to take rest whole day on Dec 6. Next day we left the base camp for climbing the last course. We did not take the route many foreign climbers sued to try, but the virgin route which nobody has ever tried before. It was the route of great couloir, between North Ridge and NW Ridge. We began to climb on Dec 7. Length of the route to the peak is 1100m of 50 degrees slope which was made of ice, snow and rocks and yet must of all were covered with thick snow. We were always facing the very danger of falling rocks and ice. Dec 7 is the first day of our climbing. We bivoucked at the upper part of couloir. Next day we were away from couloir and got to the North Ridge. We went 400m ahead of knife ridge, where we bivouaced again. It is 6100m high there.

  On Dec 9, we kept on climbing and could get to the crossing point of North Ridge and NW Ridge. It took three days for us to reach there. It was the last place that we bivouacked. On Dec 10, all members tried to attack the peak with light equipments and some clothes, but unfortunately he had to give it up and go down because of mountain sickness. I had to go down together to help him. Only two alpinists, Bong-Wan Jang and Dae-Pyo Yun were left there and kept attacking the peak. They bivouacked at the point of 7000m high. Next morning they went around great cornice to attack the peak. At 10:30 at last they conquered the peak. Team corporation, strong determination and patience brought us the result of success.

  The peak was rather milder and wider than we thought. They felt as if they could see all the Himalaya in one sight. Wonderful! Wonderful! There is no word to explain. But after thirty minutes severe winter wind forced them to withdraw down to the point of 6600m high, where I and all members were waiting for them.

  On Dec 12, we withdrew there and got to the high BC on Dec 13. Our expedition was done successfully.
   
  During this expedition we have experienced many difficulties because of the limitation of our expenditure, however we were quite satisfied with the fact that we could conqer the virgin peak through the route nobody ever tried before. We called the route as "Korean Couloir."


expid: APIM83401
peakid: APIM
year: 1983
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Tadeusz Piotrowski
sponsor: Polish Himalaya Winter Expedition to Api
ascent1: 4th
bcdate: 1983-12-10
smtdate: 1983-12-24
smttime: 1800
termdate: 1983-12-29
accidents: Bielun disappeared
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(10/12,3200m),ABC(12/12,4200m),C1(14/12,5100m),C2(20/12,5900m),Biv1(22/12,6300m),Biv2(23/12,6500m),Smt(24/12)

routememo:
  22 Dec Bielun, Piotrowski and Terlikowski left C2 on summit push. Biv at 6300m, next day biv at 6500m (very long distance from 1st biv and very strong wind). 24 Dec left biv at 10:00 am in strong wind but not roped together since no route.

  Terlikowski at 5:00 pm decided return to biv tent and did so alone. Bielun was seen to reach top 1-1/2 hours before Piotrowski. Very strong wind and darkness: when Piotrowski reached top about 7:30 pm on hands and knees did not meet Bielun and did not know what happened to him. Piotrowski fell 2m in descent and stopped descent, prepared snow for biv at 6:00 am. Only Terlikowski in tent and they waited 2-1/2 days. 27th in snowstorm Piotrowski and Terlikowski went down. 

  Route was ridge to last biv which was at start of snow done. Not so very difficult: 300m fixed rope from C1 to little above C2 on ice.

  Bielun blown away, maybe in dark lost his way, maybe fell - do not know. 25 Dec fog and snowfall in which could see only 20m and impossible to look for him.

  [On Dec 28 Gocyka, Jedlinski and Kowalewski climbed a nearby subpeak of 6070m above C2 to look for Bielun.] 


  Banskota, Tourism - 8 Jan 84

  2 members of 1st summit team:
    Tadeusz Piotrowski, 1940, economist, Szczecin
    Andrzej Bielun, 1946, Gdynia, tester of food articles

  Summit 24 Dec; Bielun at 6:00 pm on top and Piotrowski at 7:30 pm via NW Face. The 2 started from C3 (altitude?). While descending from Bielun blown away by strong wind. With help of Zbigniew Terlikowski, the leader searched for Bielun for 2-1/2 days but not found.

  3rd man Terlikowski tried for top but strong winds stopped him 2 hours short of top.

  1st group started from BC 13 Dec and 2nd group on 14 Dec to top 
  C1 5200m
  C2 5800m reached by others
  No mention of expedition finished
  BC 3300m


expid: MANA83402
peakid: MANA
year: 1983
route1: S Face
nation: Poland
leaders: Lech Korniszewski
sponsor: Polish Manaslu Winter Expedition
ascent1: 19th
bcdate: 1983-12-02
smtdate: 1984-01-12
smttime: 1055
termdate: 1984-01-17
accidents: Jaworski fatal fall below C1
achievment: Photos confirm true summit
agency: Sherpa Cooperative Trekking (SCT)
campsites:
  BC(02/12,4000m),ABC(03/12,4400m),C1(05/12,5650m),C2A(08/12,6000m),C2B(16/12,6400m),C3(22/12,7100m),C4(11/01,7750m),TrueSmt(12/01)

routememo:
  BC 1 hour before lake (which was very windy) at bottom of Thulnagi Glacier.

  Started on 12th Jan at 2:30 am from C4 at -32 degrees C inside tent and -33 degrees outside. Could climb while wind low, then had to wait while wind was strong (150-170 kph). Reached top 10:55 am, found Korean flag and red piton on top which was probably German. Returned to C2 on 12th, ABC 13th.

  Tee second party, Pawlikowski and Probulski started from C3 on 13th Jan in terrible wind and could not find C4 tent in fog so returned to C3 and to ABC 15 Jan.

  Lot of rock fall, very dangerous. At first tried pretty much directism but had to shift to much same route as Austrians 1972. Terrible winds: sometimes climbers had to wait 15-20 minutes lying down before wind abated and they could move. C3 tents frequently destroyed. "Never again in winter" says Korniszewski will he climb. 2000m fixed rope entire route.

  Jaworski had failed to use both fixed ropes. Very dangerous short section of route which could not be avoided. After Jaworski's accident, put in still more ropes making three to be used at same time.

  Took long time to establish C4: 3 days out for Xmas celebrations with tree, 3 days lost replacing lost gear. Much fixed rope required on this section.


  Banskota, Tourism - 30 Dec 83

  C2 16 Dec 6350m
  C3 21 Dec 7100m
  by 4 members: Ryszard Gajewski, Boguslaw Probulski, Maciej Pawlikowski and Zbigniew Mlynarczyk.

  Of second party 2 members started from C3 on 13th Jan in terrible wind and could not find C4 tent in fog so returned to C3.


expid: MAKA85101
peakid: MAKA
year: 1985
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge-N Face
nation: France
leaders: Maurice Barrard
sponsor: 8000m by Ski - Expedition to Makalu
approach: Arun
bcdate: 1985-04-11
smtdate: 1985-05-10
termdate: 1985-05-12
termnote: Abandoned at 8430m due to high wind and frostbitten toes
accidents: 2 frostbite cases
campsites:
  BC(11/04,5400m),C1(13/04,6200m),C2(16/04,6800m),Biv(23/04,7400m),C4(30/04,7760m),C5(01/05,8000m),xxx(10/05,8430m)

routememo:
  BC  at same place as Makalu II team
  C1  at middle of Chago Glacier east of point 6350m
  C2  just below Makalu La
  Biv at Makalu La
  C5  on ice on Makalu North Face
  High point on NW Ridge.

  No fixed camps and no fixed ropes. How many bivouacs don't know: depends on snow, etc. Most difficult parts: just Makalu La and last 300m gully to summit. 3 weeks for acclimitization and then summit push if weather permits.

  After C2, down to BC then up with bivouacs only above C2. Started up 20 April and reached La on 23 April but turned back with wind; again to BC. 27 April again up. 29 April to Makalu La, 30 April slept at 7700m, 1 May to 8000m where no snow, only rock and ice on N Face. 2 May up only 100m but wind turned them back to C2 and 3 May BC. 

  Then Beaud left climb with 2 frostbitten fingers. 2 Barrards started for top 6 May despite strong winds daily after 27 April at La. 9th May to 8000m biv. 10 May start for top from 8000m at 7:30 am in snowfall but wind blocked by ridge and not problem on N Face. 6:00 pm reached "ridge summit," but not possible to stand up on ridge, so stopped just short of main summit. Back to 8000m at 8:00 pm. 11th May like to reach top but again wind and reached about same altitude so biv 8000m and down to BC 13 May.

  Route was direct to Makalu La up couloir. Had almost no fixed rope and no fixed camps above 6800m. Last part of climb difficult seracs, icefall and very hard ice.

  Skiing not possible - no snow, completely day rock and ice.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 23 May 85

  2 bivs above C2 at 7400m and 8000m.

  1st attempt 2 May, two Barrards and Beaud reached 8100m and back to C2 because wind and exhaustion and 3 May BC.

  2nd attempt 6 May two Barrards left BC. 7 May to C2. 8th May biv 7400m. 9 May biv 8000m. 10 May started at 7:30 am for top and reached 30-35m below top any ridge at 6:00 pm. Wind very very strong, so turned back after 10 minutes and return to biv.


expid: CHOY85103
peakid: CHOY
year: 1985
route1: W Ridge-W Face from S
nation: Spain
leaders: Javier Garayoa Aizkorbe
sponsor: Alava Expedition of Sport and Science to Cho Oyu
ascent1: 13th,14th
bcdate: 1985-04-19
smtdate: 1985-05-15
smttime: 1315
accidents: Nothing serious
campsites:
  BC(19/04,5220m),Dep(24/04,5400m),C1(09/05,5700m),C2(11/05,6400m),C3(13/05,7050m),C4(14/05,7400m),Smt(15,17/05)

routememo:
  BC at Dzosampa
  C1 at Nangpa Glacier near "g" on Schneider map
  C2 same as Catalans C2
  C3 same as Catalans C3
  C4 same as Catalans C4.

  Final face from large snowfall NW of summit will be difficult.

  Said their route from Nangpa Glacier was same as Messner's (that they did not cross Nangpa La) but they laughed as they said this, and C1 on Gyabrag Glacier near "U" on Schneider map suggests otherwise [Poles including one summiter said 5 June 85 Basques crossed Nangpa La as they did themselves].

  Alberdi Gainzarain and Martinez left expedition 15 May because wives coming; did not know summit results.


  Banskota, Tourism - 24 May 85

  3 members success from S Face at 12:00 hours on 17 May: Felipe Uriarte (1944, mountain guide, Gipuzkoa), Xabier Garayoa and Atxo Apellaniz (1953, marine employee, Vitoria). Found metal flag on top left by Chinese.

  15 May summiters were:
    Miguel Apodaca (1956, administration, Vitoria)
    Inaki Querejeta Koskorrotz (1956, mechanic, Vitoria)
    Juan Jose Amezgarai (1945, patternist, Vitoria)


  Banskota, Tourism - 19 May 85

  Cho Oyu SW Face:

  4 members summit 15 May. 
  Next bid planned 17 May by 3 members - no names.
  C4  7400m 14 May
  C3  7050m 13 May
  C1  5700m  9 May

  Weather fine.


  Details of the climbing by Leader Garayoa

  From C4 the members of the first group Juan Oiarazabal, Juanjo Amezgarai, Miquel and Inaki summited on the top of 8201m high Cho Oyu mountain on 15th May 1985. The time was at 1:15 pm of summit without oxygen form the route of SS Cho Oyu. They started from C4 at 4 in the morning the same day at 6:00 am. The 1 group stayed at the summit for 1 hour.

  They took some photograph. Hoisted Nepalese and Basque flag on the top. They found Chinese-like Tibetan metalic flag at the summit. It was 1.50 mts high, different colors of seven starts on it. They were very happy. But it was too cold. It was clear all around but wind. They saw mountain Everest from the top and took photography of mtn.

  The second group including three members leader Xabier, Felipe and Atxo from the C4. Started early in the morning of 17th May at 6:00 am to the summit, from the SW Ridge of Cho Oyu. They reached on the top of Cho Oyu at 12:00 pm. They stayed 45 minutes on the top. They took photograph from there around. They saw from there Mount Everest, Lhotse, Tibet and took photography also. The weather was very good but very cold. The wind was normal. They also saw the Chinese and Tibetan flag. They put the Basque and Nepalese flag there and took picture of it.

  In this team the team leader had put one electrocardiogram matching on his body and heart, which reflected all his feeling and condition of heart of every second. It was recorded in a ultra-modern heart tape recorder (as a part of medical investigation which the team was doing in tbe BC camp, one Dr. Pepe and one nurse Maurice). The same time when expedition was going on.

  When the team was at the BC, the aluminium tent was put for the medical purposes, the test began for the members who were climbing, after climbing the health condition of before and after of climbing. The findings of this investigation would take to publish for a year, the investigation will finish. When all the member would be in Spain and tested again for the last time.

  Detail of Descending from the Summit:

  The first and second groups descended the same day they summited. Had on the top to C4 on 15th May and 17th May respectively. Next day the group to the C1 on 16th May and 18th May respectively. The first group came to the BC on 17th of May and second group came to the BC on 19th of May.

  The expedition team returned from BC to KTM on 22nd of May with 23 porters. The group divided in Namche after 3 days into two because of cargo. 9 members liaison officer and mailrunner fly from Lukla to KTM on 25 of May and two members including team leader and kitchen boy and cook came from the previous caravan route of Lukla-Jiri walking with 23 porters and by bus from Jiri to KTM.

  When we left the summit we took back all of our ropes, tent from each camp, we satisfied there is nothing leaving on the mountain. In the BC, also according to the instruction of liaison officer and team leader all rusted things were burnt, all plastic and other garbage were buried near the base camp. All round the BC was cleared.


  Banskota, Tourism - 24 May 85

  3 members success from SW Face at 12:00 hours on 17th May (Felippe Uriarte, Xabier Garayoa and Atxo); found metal flag on top left by Chinese.


expid: DHA185101
peakid: DHA1
year: 1985
route1: N Face (Pear rte)
nation: USA
leaders: Robert Harwood
sponsor: American Dhaulagiri Expedition
approach: Myagdi Khola
bcdate: 1985-03-21
smtdate: 1985-04-24
termdate: 1985-05-10
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to deep snow, bad weather and loss of motivation of team
campsites: BC(05/04,4600m),C1(10/04,5200m),C2(18/04,6100m),C3(23/04,6600m),xxx(24/04,7000m)
accidents: None except 1 member fell on approach march (he returned to BC Apr 1)
routememo:
  Dump at 3660m at site of Czech 1984 Autumn BC 
     (porters refused to go further than 1/2 day north of Pucham)
  BC at 4600m below N Face (site of 1982 Japanese Pear route BC)
  C1 at 5200m at Japanese 1982 C1
  C2 at 6100m at icefall directly up from C1
  C3 at 6600m directly below Japanese C3, in crevasse at bottom of "Pear"
  High point halfway up Pear.

  Have no fixed rope but have enough tents for couple of camps if necessary. May acclimatize at an NE Ridge before climb. Problems: weather and avalanche route via Pear would have been climbed a lot.

  Stopped at 7000m because of terrible snow conditions: of 35 days at BC, it snowed 34 days. Two distinct weather patterns between Myagdi Khola system and Kali Gandaki weather system. At 7000m snow thigh deep, not avalanching but not consolidating or being blown off. Icefall was in very bad condition (which Messner had to go through but Americans not). By 24 April people had colds and intestinal "burge" so next few days and spent rest up and discussing and watching bad weather and trying to work up a new head of steam. Left BC 10 May.

  No accidents except Pletcher's accident at Berie when he fell. He returned to BC 1 April, wasn't even limping when he walked into BC and started right in humping loads from dump to proper BC.


expid: TUKU85101
peakid: TUKU
year: 1985
route1: N Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Nam Ki-Chang
sponsor: Chung Joo University Alpine Club Tukuche Expedition 1985
ascent1: 7th
approach: Dhampus Pass->Hidden Valley
bcdate: 1985-03-02
smtdate: 1985-03-12
smttime: 1430
termdate: 1985-03-13
campsites: BC(02/03,4900m),C1A(04/03,5900m),C1B(11/03,6100m),Smt(12/03)
accidents: Leader ill throughout and never reached BC
achievment: 1st Korean ascent
routememo:
  BC  at Rikha Samba (Hidden Valley) northeast of point 5087m
  C1A at North Ridge south of little Tukuche Peak
  C1B at North Ridge plateau.

  After 4 March all down BC because strong wind. 11 March go up to new C1B site because first C1A all broken by winds; 4 members to C1. On 12 March only 2 men went for summit at 6:00 am (why other 2 did not go up also: "I don't know"). Strong wind on 12 March also. All down to BC: 4 men arrived BC 21:00 hours after reaching top 14:30. Had left Bible on top and small flags. Climb difficult: big crevasse and very steep.


expid: PUMO85102
peakid: PUMO
year: 1985
route1: SE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Pere Rodes Munoz
sponsor: Expedicio Gracia Himalaia to Pumori
ascent1: 24th
bcdate: 1985-04-19
smtdate: 1985-05-09
smttime: 1600
termdate: 1985-05-14
campsites: BC(19/05,5350m),C1(03/05,6300m),Smt(09/05)
accidents: None; bivouac very cold but stayed awake and moving to prevent frostbite
achievment: 1st Spanish ascent
routememo:
  BC near one of many small lakes at "7" of point 5327m southeast of Pumori
  C1 on SE Face in crevasse by all 4 members.

  Difficulties: To reach Col and on ridge above Col which very sharp smooth.

  27 April put ropes to 6200m and then stayed in BC with daily snowfall. On 26th tried but snowing and no visability. Probably followed South Korean route (found their fixed ropes). 4 May tried one way through crevasses and seracs and fixed 90m rope and down to BC. 8 May again up but only 3 members to summit push (not Solans Martinez because very dangerous above C1). Above C1 very steep hard ice requiring lot of ice pitons and rope so shifted route to right side of SE Face and via a col. 12 hours climb from C1 to top, 6 hours from col at about 6500m. Germans 1962 also went to this col. Biv 6600m (above Col) on 9 May in ice cave 9 hours. 10 May cleared C1 and reached BC.

  Not a truly new route, but same varieties of earlier routes probably.


  Banskota, Tourism - 14 May 85

  Rodes, Jaume Matas Grau and Joan Alarecon summit from SE Face 4:00 pm 9 May - cloudy, stayed 2 hours, flags of Nepal, Catalonese and Gracia and took photos. Started from C1 4:00 am, bived at 6600m and C1 at 8:00 am 10 May and arrived BC same afternoon. Woman member reached 6400m. Leave BC 14 May.


expid: MAK285101
peakid: MAK2
year: 1985
route1: W Face-S Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Richard Jessup
sponsor: Grenoble Makalu II Expedition
ascent1: 12th
bcdate: 1985-04-01
smtdate: 1985-04-22
smttime: 1245
termdate: 1985-04-25
othersmts: Pt 6170m
accidents: None except cook with bad altitude sickness
campsites:
  BC(01/04,5400m),C1(03/04,5800m),C2A(05/04,6250m),C2B(07/04,6450m),C3(15/04,6900m),C4(21/04,7400m),Smt(22/04)

routememo:
  BC  on 5400m dip on ridge above (N) of meeting of Barun and Chago Glacier
  C1  at 5800m beginning of Chago Glacier (e of "a" in Chago or Schneider map
  C2A at 6250m on Chago Glacier at "r" (very exposed)
  C2B at 6900m base of couloir below (E of) Makalu La
  C4  at 7400m at Makalu La (1 tent only, 2 nights only).

  On summit day went from La over the "back" (east side) of summit ridge at about 7620m and to true summit on a ridge of "lots of ups and down" in strong wind. On 22 April Sevenier tried his own summit bid and got to 7550m on 22nd and wind on 23rd. Normal route except for deviation at couloir below Makalu La.

  Not difficult. Good snow conditions. Altitude acclimatization only problems.

  Makalu II:

  3 members to top:
    Porret
    Jessup
    De Montgolfier
  at 12:45 pm on 22 April. Spent 10 mins there and returned to BC evening 24 April.

  23 April Porret and Sevenier and tried to go to top but turned back at 7500m because of wind.


expid: HIME85101
peakid: HIME
year: 1985
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Hungary
leaders: Pal Orban
sponsor: Hungarian Himalayan Expedition 1985
ascent1: 5th
approach: Dordi Khola
bcdate: 1985-04-25
smtdate: 1985-05-23
termdate: 1985-05-26
campsites: BC(25/04,4550m),C1(30/04,5450m),C2(04/05,6480m),C3(11/05,7000m),C4(22/05,7200m),Smt(23/05)
accidents: Death of two members (probably swept away by high winds between C2 and C3)
achievment: 1st Hungarian ascent of any Nepalese mountain
routememo:
  BC near Dordi Khola SSW of peak
  C1 above icefall and dangerous couloir on ice ridge
  C2 on ridge above icewall, seracs and icefall
  C3 on ridge above another icewall (100m)
  C4 north of West Peak (only 1 tent).

  2 technical problems: 1st 200-300m rock at about 5000m and here will fix rope; big serac area and ice overhang at 6200m and again here will fix rope.

  Daily constant rocks, ice and water down 12m high, 1m wide couloir below C1. Everyday new snow (6 days excepted). Was difficult to find route above C2 up icewall and seracs and took 3 days to get up ice wall and fix ropes on it halfway between C2 and C3. In meantime 2 Sherpas deserted after very small carries and many rest days; left expedition BC 4 May. From C3 three summiters went around West Peak to its east up another icewall, down and again up in poor decision regarding route (in descent followed Japanese route to its west) to C4. Returned to BC 25 May and turned back in strong wind and new snow; they were tired.

  16 May Csanadi and Greskovits carrying supplies to C3 in supply build-up at C3 in clear weather. Above ice wall met Tolnai at 2:30 pm (Tolnai coming alone) and extremely strong storm came up damaging BC tents. On 17 May members went up from C2 and found backpacks of Csanadi and Greskovits were they they left them a short way above meeting point on easy way from there to C3 and ski-stick of Csanadi at top of ice wall and his ice axe at bottom of ice wall. After 2 days search no trace and no hope. Believe probably blown of ridge. No other serious health problems.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 24 May 85

  After establishing C2, 6 members were ferrying loads from C2 to C3 site with view of establishing C3. On 16 May Sandor Csanadi (born '49, engineer Budapest) and Peter Greskovits ('52 pharmacist, Budapest) carried loads to C3 but did not return to C2 to stay overnight. Then BC and C2 tried to contact them by walkie-talkie but no contact, consequently in moving of 17 May other members and sirdar started to search for them from C2 to C3, but they were not traced.

  Search continued next 2 days May 18 and 19 from C2 to C3 and when had reached near C3 at 4:30 pm, the wind was blowing at 130 km/hr and might have been blown away by the wind.

  On May 20 2 members, Jozsef Csikos ('54, engineer Miskola) and Laszlo Voros and sirdar Pemba Norbu Sherpa established C3 at 7100m on north side of mountain. Expedition planned to make summit bid on May 22 or 25.


  Csanadi & Kallo - 15 April 85

  Have been planning expedition for 3 yrs. Problem to get it organized since had no official backing, only climbing officials do not know what is mountaineering (Hungary has no mountains).

  Only 500 climbers in Hungary - 10 years ago only 100.

  Himalchuli is forerunner to '87 Makalu attempt by Czech on SE Buttress.

  East Germans had best rock climbers in the world. Difficult to get vacation time to come on climb in Nepal.


expid: AMAD85101
peakid: AMAD
year: 1985
route1: N Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Casimiro Ferrari
sponsor: Italian Expedition to Ama Dablam, 1985
ascent1: 36th
approach: Dingboche->Chhukung
bcdate: 1985-04-08
smtdate: 1985-04-23
termdate: 1985-04-26
campsites: BC(08/04,5115m),C1(16/04,5900m),C2(21/04,6400m),C3(22/04,6600m),Smt(23/04)
achievment: 1st Italians to summit
routememo:
  BC at Ama Dablam Glacier (same as Swiss autumn 1983)
  C1 at Swiss C1 site 
  Swiss C2 site
  Swiss C3 site.

  1st 3-4 days spent working upwards to carry loads and acclimatize and then stayed in BC 1 day. 16 April started up the mountain: all climbing members (not doctor). Followed route marked on postcard. Moved up slowly because were making film but each day moved up, taking 2 tents with them as they went. On 22 April made biv 200m below summit and next morning to top (could have reached top on 22nd but stopped at noon to have good filming light for final summit push). 23rd on top and down to 6400m. 24th Ferrari and Lambardini to BC while other stayed on ridge to finish film and returned to BC on 25th.

  Difficult rock climbing: no snow, rock was loose and dangerous but no one hurt. Difficult up to about 5800m, higher up the difficulty was to find right route at snow tower.


expid: LSHR85101
peakid: LSHR
year: 1985
route1: SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Heo Young-Ho
sponsor: Jae Cheon Alpine Club Expedition to Lhotse 1985
bcdate: 1985-05-10
smtdate: 1985-05-29
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to exhaustion and lack of time
campsites: BC(10/05,5000m),C1(12/05,5650m),C2(16/05,6100m),C3(22/05,6720m),C4(28/05,7300m),xxx(29/05,8100m)
accidents: None
routememo:
  BC at Lhotse Glacier east of Island Peak
  C1 at west side of 5700m Col south of Lhotse Shar
  C2 on western extension of SE Ridge from Col
  C3 on SE Ridge
  C4 on East Face.

  Whole route steep and much rock climbing; not really difficult, just needed some more days time including rest day.


expid: GURJ85102
peakid: GURJ
year: 1985
route1: S Face-SE Ridge (to 6000m)
route2: NW Face-W Ridge
nation: Romania
leaders: Ovidiu Bojor
sponsor: Joint Nepal-Romania Gurja Himal Expedition 1985
ascent2: 6th,7th
bcdate: 1985-05-08
smtdate: 1985-05-17
smttime: 1100
termdate: 1985-05-20
othersmts: Attempted Konaban
campsites: BC(08/05,4150m),C1(11/05,4700m),C2(12/05,5800m),C3(14/05,6300m),C4(15/05,6500m),Smt(17-18/05)
accidents: 1 climber killed by rock fall on S Face route
achievment: 1st Romanian Himalayan ascent
routememo:
  BC at Kaphe Khola (same site at Japanese spr 1985)
  C3 at Japanese did not have this camp and Romanians used it only one night.

  Exactly same route as Japanese. Fixed ropes about 3 pitches near summit only but used Japanese and others rope elsewhere. Between C1 and C2 steep 500m section avalanche 45-50 degrees. Above 6800m snow slope 45 degrees 250m section and above it loose rock and very short sections of steepness. Above 6800m is on ridge. Frequent fall on the mountain.

  Three Romanian members and six Nepalese climbed on this route. Romanians were Marcus, Ritisan and Muresan. Leader did botanical works.

  Expedition split into 2 groups after they could not agree on the route all would climb. Original route was South Face and SE Ridge over Konaban Peak. All but three thought route to be too dangerous, so switched to NW Face to W Ridge route from Kaphe Khola.


  Ang Karma (co-Leader in name only) - 9 June 85

  3 sides no good to climb, not enough rope to fix it. Abandon climb or do something else: recced Konabon South Face to East Ridge left to Gurja. Some thought this possible, others possible but risky. Leader thought better to do Japanese side which earlier. The 3 more enthusiastic wanted to try Kanaban way but only for 10 days as future experience (plus one Romanian support man and no Sherpas; 4 other Romanians and 4 Nepalese members went to Japanese route). 2 May two parties split. Tareja Khola camp was where split: about 2 days before S Face BC, southeast of it. Went on Japanese route and on 17 May 3 Nepalese to top, 18 May 3 Romanians (except Bojor) and 2 Nepalese Tamangs and all down safely. Left BC 20 May.
   
  20 May received letter dated 19 May from Coliban via local porter. Letter reported accident on 15 May. Coliban had swollen tooth at their C1 while Dutescu-Coliban and Vergulescu in good condition and recce separately: she to right from their camp 5600-5700m and he to extreme left of S Face of Konaban. Weather started to deteriorate: fog and perhaps snow and she to their camp. Vergulescu did not return. In evening when weather cleared a Coliban and Dutescu-Coliban searched unsuccessfully until dark.

  16 May 3:30 am Coliban and Dutescu-Coliban again searched found Vergulescu's footprints and in daylight saw him in front of serac barrier, badly injured in mid-forehead and guessed bit by rock or serac and had died immediately. He had no crampons, no rucksacks, no helmet. They buried his body where found it.

  Wrote they had come down to Tareja camp and said they would wait there 2-3 days for response and would go up to clear mountain of equipment (maybe in meantime, maybe later).

  Bojor and Ang Karma made replies and local man took them 22nd May waiting for snowfall to stop and would be received same day.

  21st May porters had arrived at Bojor camp and camp evacuated 22nd May. Reached Pokhara and KTM 28 May without having seen others (Bojor walked more slowly and arrived KTM 3-4 days later). Checked at Beni and post at Arpang before Beni but no information regarding others.

  Now many days. They should have arrived Pokhara days ago. I hope they haven't gone to Dhaulagiri. Were "different kind of people." "stubborn" - he good team spirit.


  Bojor - 8 Jun 85

  Last news of three members who have not yet arrived KTM is letter dated 19 May. Since then no word at all about them. If still no word by noon tomorrow, will take decision in Ministry of Tourism about sending search party.


  Ang Karma - 13 Jun 85

  Yesterday a Sherpa went by bus to Pokhara, going to missing persons BC, asking locals and police post on the way. Will not go to Dhaulagiri but will return to KTM with any information he collects. May be back in KTM in 8 days, may be danger depending on whether he has to go all the way to their BC.


  Kunga Sherpa - 11 Jun 85

  A Sherpa flies to Baglung tomorrow to try to trace 3 missing Romanians. He carries letters from HMG to police and local authorities.

  Trio had not good supply of food and now it is almost 4 weeks since letter of 19th May - visas expired 4 June.

  Taina wanted to climb Dhaulagiri I. Ambitious to climb higher than Romanians who scaled peak in Pamirs higher than Gurja. They may have gone to Dhaulagiri and had accident.

  Another possibility is they may have sought political asylum. Taina lived for several years in US.

  Bojor's posting in KTM is finished.


  Ravin Lama - 9 Jun 85

  Only Marcus amongst Romanians actually reached summit of Gurja. They are saying 3 got to the top because leader had to sign papers in Bucharest guaranteeing success and with 1 member dead, they needed more Romanian summiters.

  Ang Karma has told Ravin all this in detail. Leader is trying to get journalism scholarship for Ang Karma in Romania.


  Pavel & Taina - 19 May 1985

  We are deeply grieved to tell you that, instead of being with you now - a thing which seemed almost certain as things were going - we have to send you the worst news there is. Cesar is dead. It happened on 15 May, in the middle of the Konaban wall. We had set up C2 above the serac field visible from below, a little left of the big icefall, on a flat snowfield. In the morning at 9 o'clock we went to make a reconnaissance, Taina towards the Col at the basis of the ridge on the extreme right, Cesar upwards on the ridge left of the icefall, in order to see where it was better to continue the route. We reckoned to set up one more camp before on on the main ridge. Emil stayed at the tent - he had a swollen tooth and was on antibiotics. Taina came back around noon, the fog had set in already. It continued foggy until 5-6 pm, so we tried in vain to see Cesar, and he did not answer our calls. Towards evening, when it cleared up, Emil started after him, but found no sign before nightfall. In the morning we started at about 3:30, we followed his steps in the snow slopes and after going a little higher, we saw him below as to the right, fallen under the big serac barrier, on the upper part of the dejection  cone. We reached him as the sun was rising. He had one terrible blow in the middle of this forehead, and it was he had been lying night. Death must have been instantaneous. We think we had not seen him the night before because of irregularities in the slope. He had no rucksack, no anorack and no crampons on, and we suppose that he either slipped or more probably received a piece of ice or rock as he had stoppd to put on more clothes some time during the afternoon of 15 May. We buried him in the snow where we found him. Everything was going all right, we should have been on the summit in 3 days. We were feeling all right, lacking nothing. We do not think it was recklessness or imprudence. The conditions were good. The route is fairly easy, it presents no special problems in that area, no objective danger on the ridge Cesar took, or was supposed to take. It was terrible bad luck. But, as it happens in the mountains, big or small, anyone at anytime can meet with bad luck. We, Emil and Taina, considered that we must get down as soon as possible to announce the liaison officer who knows what should be done in such cases. We got to Jungle BC on 18th May, were we found Cornel, who had been to our BC (4600m), the day before, but had not seen us because of the fog and the distance.

  We are sending this message with a Tareja man, who must bring bad news from you. We will do the following thing:
  - go up again to bring down what we left in C1
  - carve an inscription for our Cesar on a rock up there in base camp and try to put up a cross.

  In the meantime we hope to have an answer from you (3-4 days).

  As we understand that the LO is back in Kathmandu, we think the official message regarding the accident should be sent to Kunga Sherpa. We will prepare a detailed report. We made some photos at the site of the accident.


  Mr and Mrs Coliban - 13 Apr 85

  Try South Face; establish lower camp about Muria and try Khola west to Myagdi; then go between Gurja and Konaban Peak up Gumma Khola and look at face. Perhaps a possible pillar towards left on face or on SE Ridge from Konaban Peak and its South Ridge; perhaps up face and down ridge and Konaban.

  Also would like to have a look at "NW Ridge of Dhaulagiri."


expid: KANG85101
peakid: KANG
year: 1985
route1: N Ridge-N Face
nation: USA
leaders: John Roskelley
sponsor: Kangchenjunga N Wall 1985
countries: Canada
bcdate: 1985-04-06
smtdate: 1985-05-13
termdate: 1985-05-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due tothreatening weather and lack of time
campsites:
  BC(06/04,5000m),ABC1(07/04,5200m),ABC2(14/04,5200m),C1(14/04,5800m),C2(25/04,7000m),C3(28/04,7400m),xxx(13/05,7900m)

routememo:
  BC  at Pangpema
  ABC.1 on Kangchenjunga Glacier at base of North Face
  ABC.2 on moraine debris at side of glacier
  C1  at middle of high glacier above icefall, on left side of base of North Face
  C2  at North Col
  C3  at base of a cliff.

  On face at C2 the technical difficulties occurred: steep rock and ice with some rockfall; also avalanching elsewhere.

  Well to Col was 27 pitches of fixed rope on ice - very demanding hard work to climb. Last few days of the climb the winds reversed and came from Sikkim but then shifted back again. Very little snow on mountain till last week when snow collected. Mountain was avalanching all the time but didn't threaten this expedition, but ice avalanche came came close once and could hear rockfall.

  15 May Crown got cerebral edema. Actually no one acclimatized well: "the bodies not adjusting themselves."

  Did not see Chris Chandler's body; probably carried down by avalanches.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 24 May 85

  Kangchenjunga from Skreslet to Ministry of Tourism:

  "As of 15 May we evacuated the mountain having reached a high point of 25,500-26,000 ft on 13 May attempting to establish C4, failing to reach that camp, equipment was stashed at halfway point and the 2 members, John Roskelley and Kim Momb, came down off high ridge to C2.

  Same day Laurie Skreslet and Gregg Cronn advanced to C3 in preparation for summit bid. After 2 days in C3 on morning of 2nd summit bid, Gregg Cronn was stricken with cerebral edema on 15 May and had to be evacuated of the mountain. He was helped down from 24,500 ft to 16,000 ft at BC and eventually recovered.

  From April 22nd it took approximately a week to stock pile C2 before pushing up the ridge from this North Col to the site of C3 at the base of the great serac slope.

  Then after stock piling C3 waiting for the weather to abate before fixing rope to the top of the cliff to the great serac slope and eventually setting out for C4. That took up to May 15. "The main reason for quitting the mountain was bad weather."

accidents:
  Cronn stricken with cerebral edema (helped down to BC and eventually recovered); actually no one acclimatized well ('the bodies not adjusting themselves')


expid: ANN185101
peakid: ANN1
year: 1985
route1: NW Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Reinhold Messner
sponsor: Messner Annapurna Expedition 1985
ascent1: 13th
countries: Austria
bcdate: 1985-04-09
smtdate: 1985-04-24
othersmts: Climbed Dhaulagiri I (DHA1-851-02)
campsites: BC(09/04,4100m),C1(12/04,5100m),C2(21/04,6000m),Biv1(22/04,7200m),Smt(24/04),Biv2(24/04,7500m)
routememo:
  BC at left side of Mristi Khola between 1950 & Spring 1984
  C1 on glacier.

  Most difficult sections: Kammerlander below C2 70-75 degrees very steep ice and rock; Messner between C2 and Biv 1: 20m smooth rock (no holds, no pitons possible); Patscheider above Biv 2: 30m vertical green hard ice. Plus ridge is not easy (up and down, quite vertical snow pressed on rocks) and dangerous to fall. Below C2 rock fall in afternoon and middle third above C2 to Biv 1, overlooked by ice serac and biv 1 and 2 below is ice serac.

  BC - 10 Apr 85

  We reached BC, 4010m, yesterday. The route to khola was quite difficult and we had to send back most of our porters halfway; only with 20 of them - going back and forward - we could go ahead.

  We are on the left side of khola between the Herzog BC (1950) and Sigayret BC (1984).

  The NW Face of Annapurna looks steep and difficult; anyway we will make a direct route between the Sterner attempt and the Sigayret attempt.

  Tonight we had a bad storm and the kitchen broke. We have 20 cm of fresh snow.

  On the 12th April we will go to look for a route throughout the icefall on the foot of our face. The first part of the wall we will fix with ropes. From 6000m onwards it is our plan to try it in alpine style.


  Letter from Messner, BC - 26 Apr 85

  Hans Kammerlander and I climbed up to the summit of Annapurna I on a totally new route:

  20/4 C1 easy good weather
  21/4 C2 fixed ropes, good weather
  22/4 bivouac 7200m, snowstorm
  23/4 bivouac 7500m good weather, windy 
  24/4 summit, strong wind
  25/4 BC, snow danger
  26/4 all of the members are in the BC; snow avalanches in the face.

  Now we will wait for a second attempt for the other three.

  Over route is a fine line, partly extremely difficult and dangerous (extremely) in case of new snow. We had a few good, clear days and came back before a long snowfall. Frostbitten fingers (Hans and I), need rest so bad. Now we wait for the Dhaulagiri. Kammerlander is in the good shape.

accidents:
  Patscheider fell 600m on May 1 but not seriously injured; Messner and Kammerlander got slight frostbite in toes on summit day


expid: DHA185102
peakid: DHA1
year: 1985
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Reinhold Messner
sponsor: Messner Dhaulagiri Expedition 1985
ascent1: 28th
bcdate: 1985-05-12
smtdate: 1985-05-15
smttime: 1200
termdate: 1985-05-17
othersmts: Climbed Annapurna I (ANN1-851-01)
campsites: BC(12/05,4600m),Biv1(13/05,6300m),Biv2(14/05,7350m),Smt(15/05),Biv3(15/05,7450m)
accidents: None (was much warmer than on Annapurna)
achievment: 1st spring ascent of 8000ers
routememo:
  BC   at normal site
  Biv1 at 700m above col on beginning of ridge
  Biv2 at NE Ridge.

  Stayed to right side of whole glacier, to right side of icefall to Col. On 14 May climbed the whole ridge to site of 1984 spring highest point. Next morning on terrain new to them and kept to left of big snow field to summit ridge. There were five summits on this ridge and the 5th one is the highest one. Most expeditions probably do not actually reach true summit in mist. In descent had to stay on ridge but for one hour had painful electricity pulling Messner's hair. Left biv 2 at 6:00 am and returned at 4:00 pm.


  Tukuche - 8 May 85

  We are on the way to it [Dhaulagiri]; only 3 porters, 2 mailrunners, 1 Sherpa, 1 cook, 1 LO and 2 members. I think it is the smallest expedition to a 8000er peak ever.

  On Annapurna we were very lucky, the last day of good weather we could reach the summit. (Bad wind, still our feet hurting from being frostbitten on the summit day). The second attempt you can here from the friends [Patscheider, Rieser, Schiestl]. They should be in KTM.


  Dhaulagiri BC - 16 May 85

  On May 12 we reached (via Dhampus and French Col) the BC (4600m).

  On May 13 Hans Kammerlander and I climbed up to the Col (2 Sherpas helped carry, since Hans and I had to fix a few ropes). We two went ahead, the Sherpas turned back to BC. We had our first bivouac on 6300m. Windy.

  On May 14 Hans and I climbed the NE Ridge and had a biv of 7350m. Very windy and snow in the afternoon. Night not bad.

  On May 15 we reached the summit - a very very long ridge - on 12:00 hours - stayed for half an hour (windy, electricity in the air, pains in the hair, sounds on the ice axes, dangerous).

  On our way back we had bad visibility, wind; we reached the biv at 7350m, very bad night. On May 16th we climbed back for BC downwards. Not any serious problems. Saila and Phurba observing us with the binoculars from the BC came up to ours to help.

  On May 17 we will leave BC. On 17th May Hans and I will try to fly from Jomsom to Pokhara.


expid: CHOY85101
peakid: CHOY
year: 1985
route1: E Ridge via S Face of Ngojumba Kang (to 7800m)
route2: W Ridge-W Face from S
nation: Poland
leaders: Waclaw Otreba
sponsor: Polish-American Cho Oyu Expedition Spring 1985
ascent2: 15th
countries: USA
bcdate: 1985-04-15
smtdate: 1985-05-28
termdate: 1985-06-01
termnote: Success on normal route only
othersmts: Climbed Ngojumba Kang (NGOJ-851-01)
accidents: Sopicki and Roslan seriously injured in avalanche at C1 (both evacuated by helicopter)
campsites:
  BC(15/04,4900m),ABC(18/04,5100m),C1(21/04,5900m),C2(02/05,6400m),C3(03/05,6800m),C4(15/05,7200m),C5(18/05,7400m),C6(20/05,7730m),xxx(22/05,7800m); Biv1-5,Smt(28/05)

routememo:
  Climbing route: Southwest = West Ridge-West Face (usual route)
  BC   on 21 May at 5200m at south of Dzampa (same as Spanish BC)
  Biv1 on 23rd at 5700m at Gyabrag Glacier near "g" on Schneider map
  Biv2 on 24th at 6350m at Spanish C2 this season
  Biv3 on 25th at 6700m at Chinese C3 just above serac on snow plateau east of 
       Pt 6446m and equally west of 7570m
  Biv4 on 26th at 7050m at 3rd biv of Spanish and Chinese C4
  Biv5 on 27th at 7600m above Spanish C4, on rock spur SW of point 7570m.

  After accident decided Poles not time enough to reach to via East Ridge after time spent evacuating accident victims to get good acclimatization and climb very difficult route. Had agreed with Tourism Ministry in KTM might spend small party round to Spanish route and on 18 May could see 2 Americans at 7500m only. So on 18 May sent Gardzielewski and Jezierski who made alpine style ascent alone, following Spanish (and Chinese) route to top. Fell in crevasse on 27th and stopped there that night. On top for 15 minutes on 28 May and back to Biv 5. 29 May at Biv 2, 30 May Biv 1 and 31 May Basque BC. Left BC 1 June. Kochanczyk camped near their Biv 2 alone during their ascent and they met him there in their descent; he had arrived BC on 23 May.

  From C3 2 Americans climbed alone while Poles went to investigate avalanche. Made C4 on 15th, 16th another carry to C4, 17th rested in C4. 10th in bad weather in cave at 7500m, 17th rested in storm, in C5 20th to ridge camp, C6 21st in C6 with storm (snow and wind), 22nd first afttempted Cho Oyu and reached 7800m to gully that stopped British in 1984. Here tried Tibetan side looking for escape route around gully system - gully drops 1000m or more of rock into Tibet and low on climbers and equipment, couldn't go further. Should establish camp near gully and 4-man team with at least 200m of rope and 30 pitons to get across this difficult section. So gave up Cho Oyu and concentrated on Ngojumba since only 2 men now on ridge route.

  Could have climbed East Ridge if had been more members support. Only 2 Americans and 2 Poles (Jankowiak and Otreba) enthusiastic about it and expedition sort of fell apart with Gardzielewski keen on South Pillar or South Face.

  Ascent route E Ridge via S Face of Ngojumba Kang; highest point at E Ridge Gully; descent route E Ridge. 

  When it became clear that the difficult E Ridge was likely to be an unsurmountable obstacle after valuable time had been lost from a huge avalanche, Gardzielewski and Jezierski went around to the western side of the mountain to reach the summit via the normal route after 5 bivouacs.

  Ngojumba Kang climbed by 2 Americans after attempt of Cho Oyu via E Ridge failed.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 2 June 85

  2 May C2 6400m
  3 May C3 6900m

  14 May huge avalanche on South Face completely destroyed ABC and injured 2 members.

  15 May C4 7200m at base of Ngojumba South Face.

  It was now agreed Polish including Otreba would descend to investigate avalanche while Americans would continue climb.

  18 May C5 7500m 
  20 May C6 on ridge just below summit of Ngojumba in snow cave.
  22 May - Richey and Wilcox attempted East Ridge of Cho Oyu - reached
           about 7800m but stopped because of extreme technical 
           difficulties and return to C4 and went to Ngojumba summit same
           day - 1 hour on top and down to C4
  23 May - Americans to C1
  24 May - Americans to BC
  25 May - Americans left BC with same Poles

  18 May 2 Poles left BC towards SW Ridge Cho Oyu after talking to Spaniards and LO's. No further information regarding their climb.


  Roslan - 16 May 85

  Serac avalanche hit 14 May 8:00 am when getting ready to leave ABC to climb up with Gardzielewski who was only slightly injured and stays with team though further climbing uncertain. Richey and Sopicki broke ribs, etc. Stays in KTM for others to return and fly to Warsaw together from Delhi 13 June.

  2 Americans and 2 Poles Otreba and Jankowiak probably in C4B now in push for Col and East Ridge to Cho Oyu summit.

  Last 10 days snowfall every afternoon bringing deep snow on Ngojumba face
  Camps already made:

  BC  - 5100m 15 April first people arrived
  ABC - 5200m
  C1  - 5950m
  C2  - 6500m
  C3  - 6950m
  C4A - 7100m on Ngozumba face

  C4 probably by now moved to C4B about 7500m on Ngojumba face and occupied by Jankowiak, Richey, Otreba and Wilcox. Last camp to be C5 at 7750m on Col between Ngojumba and Cho Oyu; beyond this on Cho Oyu East Ridge to sleep in caves.

  Rest of them should reach KTM in first days of June.


expid: NGOJ85101
peakid: NGOJ
year: 1985
route1: S Face-E Ridge of Cho Oyu
nation: Poland
leaders: Waclaw Otreba
sponsor: Polish American Cho Oyu Expedition Spring 1985
ascent1: 2nd
countries: USA
approach: Gokyo
bcdate: 1985-04-15
smtdate: 1985-05-22
smttime: 1500
othersmts: Attempted Cho Oyu (CHOY-851-01)
accidents: 2 hit by avalanche at C1; 1 snowblinded
primid: CHOY85101
campsites:
  BC(15/04,4900m),ABC(18/04,5100m),C1(21/04,5900m),C2(01/05,6400m),C3(03/05,6800m),C4(15/05,7200m),C5(18/05,7500m),C6(20/05,7730m),Smt(22/05)

routememo:
  Icefall and avalanching on Ngojumba gully system on Cho Oyu's ridge. If very tired by difficult ridge, may descend SW Face route. 

  When it became clear that the difficult East Ridge was likely to be an unsurmountable obstacle after valuable time had been lost from a huge avalanche, Gardzielewski and Jezierski went around to the western side of the mountain to reach the summit of Cho Oyu via the normal route.

  Ngojumba Kang climbed by 2 Americans after attempt of Cho Oyu via E Ridge


expid: NILN85101
peakid: NILN
year: 1985
route1: N Face-W Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Zbigniew Mlynarczyk
sponsor: Polish Himalaya Expedition Nilgiri N Spring 1985
countries: W Germany
approach: Kali Gandaki->Marpha->Timi Gaon
bcdate: 1985-04-25
smtdate: 1985-05-19
termdate: 1985-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to difficult ice, bad weather, lack of food and fixed rope
achievment: 1st Polish attempt
campsites:
  BC(25/04,3900m),ABC(28/04,5100m),C1(03/05,5600m),Biv1(16/05,5900m),Biv2(17/05,6000m),Biv3(18/05,6300m),xxx(19/05,6400m)

routememo:
  BC   at 50m lower than French autumn 1981 (less wind and had water)
  ABC  on 1st tower on central ridge of North Face
  C1   end of ridge where it becomes wall
  Biv1 at North Face
  Biv2 at West Ridge
  Biv3 at West Ridge.

  No camps above C1 on wall where difficulties began: 50-70 degrees steep and traverse below rock band. Worked 5 days fixing rope on traverse above 5700m. Summit push alpine-style by 3 men attempted on 16 May, but terrible thunderstorm for 8 hours that after and huddled on small platform at 5700m where traverse ended. 17 May went to West Ridge and bived at 6000m. 18 May fixed-rope supply finished but up to 6300m. 19 May went 60m up difficult rock and ice, hard green ice to 6400m in 5 hours. At this rate not possible to go to top and back, so down to 6000m same site for biv. 30 May to C1 very tired and without food. 20 May afternoon bad weather closed in. 21st snow all day so lucky to have traversed before fresh snow.

  North Face many seracs and very risky to climb it direct to summit.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 23 May 85

  17 May 5900m biv by 3 members
  18 May 6250m biv
  19 May 7000m biv on N Face right ridge
  Going towards summit very strong wind and foggy these 3 days and snowfall, so difficult progress; short of food and rope.
  2 members in BC.


expid: ANN385101
peakid: ANN3
year: 1985
route1: N Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Bhagirath Narsingh Rana
sponsor: Royal Nepal Army Expedition to Annapurna III
ascent1: 8th
bcdate: 1985-04-03
smtdate: 1985-05-04
smttime: 1500
accidents: Karki seriously frostbite in all toes from night of May 4-5 (all toes amputated in Bangkok)
achievment: 1st Nepalese ascent
campsites:
  BC(03/04,3960m),C1(09/04,4750m),C2(13/04,5150m),C3(21/04,6175m),C4(28/04,6770m),C5(30/04,7076m),C6(03/05,c7200m),Smt(04/05)

routememo:
  BC north of Annapurna III just above tree line
  C2 in middle of icefall
  C3 above icefall on snowfield
  C4 on plateau (snow)
  C5 on same huge plateau.

  All route above C1 (icefall begins halfway to C2). C3 to C4 several ice walls of about 10m each. From C5 first assault team could not reach top and spent night of 2nd May 100m below top in snow hole and retreated next day. Second assault team on 3rd May took tents and pitched them just above an ice wall above C5. On 4th of May reached top at 3:00 pm. No further summit attempts because of storm with lightning, wind and heavy snow. Hira Bahadur and Surya Bahadur reached assault camp at midnight, other two spent night in snow holes. All 4 reached C4 with help from other.


expid: ANNS85101
peakid: ANNS
year: 1985
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Luciano Cergol
sponsor: SPDT (Slovene Mountain Club of Trieste) Annapurna South Exped 1985
approach: Modi Khola
bcdate: 1985-04-14
smtdate: 1985-04-21
termdate: 1985-04-22
termnote: Abandoned at 5650m due to rope shortage, new snow, lack of time
campsites: BC(14/04,4800m),C1(19/04,5600m),xxx(21/04,5650m)
accidents: None except mild altitude illness
routememo:
  BC on Kyumnu (Kimrong) Khola (from Modi Khola) to point north of Pt 4940m 
     (Around Annapurna map)
  C1 on SW Ridge.

  Last 300m of route very steep and difficult.

  Had problem getting to BC with pitons in snow, Dumped loads at 4000m and team had to carry to BC. Went onto SW Ridge but had to stop before C2 because had run out of rope. Needed more rope because had used 800m to get out ridge and 2000m total used up before reached C3 sites at 5700m (ridge from C1 goes down and then up, a long distance). Stopped because of this rope shortage, altitude illness by others, snow and shortage of time (had to leave Nepal 12 May).


expid: CHOL85101
peakid: CHOL
year: 1985
route1: S Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Naoe Sakashita
sponsor: Sangaku Doshikai Khumbu Himal Expedition 1985
ascent1: 5th
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1985-04-17
smtdate: 1985-04-19
termdate: 1985-05-10
othersmts: Climbed Tawoche (TAWO-851-01) and Ama Dablam (AMAD-851-02)
campsites: BC(17/04,5000m),Biv1(17/04,5600m),Biv2(18/04,6000m),Smt(19/04)
accidents: Shibuya got altitude sickness after summit and lost his sense of balance (he recovered)
primid: TAWO85101
routememo:
  Ishibashi led all the pitches, so hard climb for him; the other two were not in good condition. Descent very slow because Shibuya developed serious altitude sickness. 

  The seven-man Sangaku Doshikai party of Tokyo, led by Naoe Sakashita, climbed three 6000ers in the Khumbu Himal in alpine-style pushes. They were: the South Ridge of Cholatse, the SE Face of Tawoche, the W Face and the SW Ridge of Ama Dablam.


expid: AMAD85102
peakid: AMAD
year: 1985
route1: W Face up; SW Ridge down
route2: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Naoe Sakashita
sponsor: Sangaku Doshikai Khumbu Himal Expedition 1985
ascent1: 37th
ascent2: 38th
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1985-04-28
smtdate: 1985-05-02
smttime: 1020
termdate: 1985-05-10
othersmts: Climbed Tawoche (TAWO-851-01) and Cholatse (CHOL-851-01)
accidents: Ishibashi was killed in fall on descent from summit
primid: TAWO85101
campsites:
  BC(28/04),Biv1(29/04,5100m),Biv2(30/04,6250m),Biv3(01/05,6550m),Smt(02/05); Biv1(29/04,5600m),Biv2(30/04,6050m),Biv3(01/05,61000m),Biv4(02/05,6500m),Smt(03/05),Biv5(03/05,5950m)

routememo:
  BC   at Mingbo Glacier near Hillary airstrip
  Biv1 at bottom of West Face
  Biv2 on face
  Biv3 on face above hanging glacier
  Biv4 on SW Ridge after summit success.

  The seven-man Sangaku Doshikai party of Tokyo, led by Naoe Sakashita, climbed three 6000ers in the Khumbu Himal in alpine-style pushes. They were: the South Ridge of Cholatse, the SE Face of Tawoche, the West Face and the SW Ridge of Ama Dablam.

  Had deep fresh snow. May be possible in one day to climb face from biv at 5900-5400m to summit via face route if in good health and no deep snow. On this face climb Yagi had stomach trouble which meant low 1st biv and slow progress next day - carried 2 days food.

  Quick climb (contrasted with Peter Hillary's) required "an idea, a plan." Messner or Roskelley would not want to stay a week on that face.
   
  4th May Ishibashi killed in fall for unknown reasons while descending. Ariaka some frostbite but not very serious. Was cold weather and he was weak.

  No avalanching - saw none at all even with fresh snow.


  Sakashita - 14 May 85

  28th reached Ama Dablam BC.

  29th Ariake and Sakashita attempted W Face; biv at 5100m; Ishibashi, Toyoda and Yagi to attempt SW Ridge same day.

  In this season lot of new snow on both ridge and face (20 cm), bad conditions.

  West Face-SW Ridge Traverse:
  29 Apr  - Ariake and Sakashita biv at 5100m
  30 Apr  - Sakashita and Ariake reached 6250m on face. Ariake had stomach trouble
            and ate nothing on 29th but decided nonetheless to go up face but very
            slow. Used no rope, no tent, no sleeping bag, joint bivy sack.
  1 May   - traversed face to night almost same route as Peter Hillary route, 
            6550m biv, no gas left, so no tea.
  2 May   - 10:20 am reached summit from face, beautiful day. Biv at 6050m 
            (again no hot drink) on SW Ridge.
  3 May   - Sakashita and Ariake to BC via ridge. Ariake same frostbite but not serious.

  SW Ridge:
  29 Apr  - Ishibashi, Toyoda and Yagi reached 5600m on SW Ridge. Went to ridge 
            cause face too dangerous for all to go up it. Must move quickly and 
            need experience.
  30 Apr  - 6050m Ishibashi and Toyoda reached on ridge while Yagi turned back 
            with tooth trouble and allergic.
  1 May   - 6100m on long difficult ridge
  2 May   - 6500m
  3 May   - summit to biv at 5950m
  4 May   - 7:00 am walkie-talkie contact from Ishibashi. They too had no drink and
            food last night because stove broken. Will start descent Ishibashi said. 
            Used same rope for couple of pitches. Vertical rock face even 
            overhanging 2-3m, very difficult. Ishibashi below led and suddenly he
            had disappeared. 2 hours after left biv Ishibashi fell. 12:20 pm Toyoda
            arrived BC and reported accident. Exhausted same day Yagi and Sakashita
            went up SW Ridge to 5600m.
  5 May   - 10:00 and 11:00 am reached accident point at 5900m where Toyoda had left
            backpack. Toyoda saw red dot on W Face icefall which was Ishibashi. 2 
            now returned to BC.
  6 May   - Sakashita Yagi, Toyoda and Dr Stefan Goldberg went to icefall (very
            difficult) and found big crevasses between body and selves so couldn't
            reach body. Snowstorm forced retreat to BC.
  7 May   - Up again via rock ridge and down to crevasses and found body at 5300m
            ond skull broken (died immediately after fall). Sakashita and Toyoda 
            wrapped his body and carried it down.
  8 May   - Brought body to BC.
  9 May   - Cremated body with Thyangboche Lama, Sherpas, Goldberg present.
            Brought bones for family.
  10 May  - All left BC.


  Sakashita - 2 April 85

  Ishibashi leads one team to Cholatse while Sakashita others to Tawoche. After these finished, exchange mountains. Take about 3 weeks for this. Then all 7 move to Mingbo to Ama Dablam W Face. If we pass through in just 1-2 days will be Ok. During recce last year Irawa saw avalanches. Looks risky but somehow stable I think. Hillary party stayed on that route 10 days but Japanese will have acclimatized on other two mountains and Ama Dablam will not be so difficult for us. Will not used fixed ropes. Hope for very fast alpine-style climb with no ropes (only climbing rope), no tents (3 biv sacks).

  On entire climb of 4 mountains, no Sherpas, no oxygen at all also on all 4 mountains.

  Cho Oyu only Ishibashi and Sakashita (others go home after Ama Dablam). SE Face Australian route or Poles S Pillar. "I pray to the god to find it easy, safe." We are Buddhist like Nepali and Tibetans so maybe the god will find us route?

  Cholatse: first try N Face but with little time, if route very hard will change to US or Swiss route. Depends on condition of route (whether enough snow or ice on face in spring - autumn best season to climb N Face).

  BC at Pheriche. LO and kitchen boy there (no sirdar on expedition).

  Tawoche: first like N Face. If not possible, maybe for route on SE Face or last year US - Sakashita route on this.

  All leave KTM 3 April by air to Lukla and arrive Pheriche BC in 4 days on Afternoon 6 April.

  Arrive MBC 22 or 23 April (only 2 hours ex-Pheriche). 5 leave BC 29 April
  arrive Cho Oyu BC near Gyazumpa on May 2 and spend 2 weeks on Cho Oyu.
  5 climbers return KTM 1 May
  2 climbers return KTM 20-23 May
  2 stay at Tamkaku's house
  For myself it is necessary to do new things - style, way of thinking philosophy must be new. So we carry no tent, use biv sack in Bangkok airport (very cold because of air-conditioning).


expid: TAWO85101
peakid: TAWO
year: 1985
route1: SE Face-SE Ridge-N Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Naoe Sakashita
sponsor: Sangaku Doshikai Khumbu Himal Expedition 1985
ascent1: 4th
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1985-04-17
smtdate: 1985-04-24
smttime: 1220
termdate: 1985-05-10
othersmts: Climbed Cholatse (CHOL-851-01) and Ama Dablam (AMAD-851-02)
campsites: BC(17/04),Biv1(18/04,5800m),Biv2(23/04,6000m),Smt(24/04),Biv3(24/04,5800m)
accidents: None
achievment: 1st Japanese ascent
routememo:
  Deposit biv near lake just north of point 5305m west of BC at Pheriche
  Biv 1 on SE Face (loose rock face)
  Biv 2 on SE Ridge (left horizon ridge on Seigneur)
  Biv 3 on N Face in descent.

  The seven-man Sangaku Doshikai party of Tokyo, led by Naoe Sakashita, climbed three 6000ers in the Khumbu Himal in alpine-style pushes. They were: the South Ridge of Cholatse, the SE Face of Tawoche, the West Face and the SW Ridge of Ama Dablam.

  1st summit push on 19 April reached 6000m on SE Ridge but (at 2:00 pm) white-out enveloped them and turned back to 5800m bivouac. They descended mountain because teammate Shibuya ill on Cholatse and went to Cholatse [to assist]. Returned to depot 22 April and on 23rd same 4 members started up again and reached 6000m point on ridge. 24th started up at 7:30 am and at 12:20 pm on top via SE Ridge. Face of snow and ice of 60 degrees including a small very steep ridge on North Face which went out to avoid cornices on south side. Used rope on this ridge traverse at 5800m and on 25th back at Pheriche.

  All leave KTM 3 April by air to Lukla and arrive Pheriche BC in 4 days on afternoon 6 April.

  Arrive Mingbo BC 22 or 23 April. (only 2 hours ex-Pheriche)
  5 leave Mingbo BC 29 April, arrive Cho Oyu BC near Gyazumpa on May 2 and 
    spend 2 weeks on Cho Oyu
  5 climbers return KTM 1 May
  2 climbers return KTM 20-23 May
  2 stay at Tankaku's house.


  Sakashita - 2 April 85

  Ishibashi leads 1 team to Cholatse while Sakashita others to Tawoche; after there finished, exchange mountains take about 3 weeks for this. Then all 7 move to Mingbo to Ama Dablam West Face. If we pass through in just 1-2 days will be Ok. During recce last year I never saw avalanches; looks risky but somehow stable I think. Hillary party stayed on that route 10 days, but Japanese will have acclimatized on other 2 mountains and Ama Dablam will be so difficult for us. Will not use fix rope; hope for very fast alpine style climb with no ropes (only climbing rope) no tents (3 biv sacks)

  An entire climb of 4 mountains; no Sherpas, no oxygen at all, also on all 4 mountains.

  Cho Oyu: only Ishibashi and Sakashita (others go home after Ama Dablam). SE Face Australian route or Polish South Pillar. "I pray to the god to find easy safe route. We are Buddhists like Nepali and Tibetans so maybe the god will find us route."

  Cholatse: first try North Face but with little time, if route very hard, will change to US or Swiss route; depends on condition of route (whether enough snow or ice on face in spring as autumn best season to climb North Face).

  BC at Pheriche with LO and kitchen boy there (no sirdar on expedition).

  Tawoche: first look at North Face;if not possible, maybe go for route on SE Face or last year's US-Sakashita route on this face.


expid: YALU85101
peakid: YALU
year: 1985
route1: N Face-E Ridge
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Tone Skarja
sponsor: Slovene Yalungkang Expedition 1985
ascent1: 12th
approach: Ghunsa->Pangpema
bcdate: 1985-03-25
smtdate: 1985-04-22
smttime: 1630
termdate: 1985-04-25
campsites: BC(25/03,5050m),C1(01/04,5720m),C2(09/04,6520m),C3(15/04,7350m),C4(20/04,8100m),Smt(22/04)
achievment: 1st ascent of N Face
routememo:
  BC at Pangpema (last party arrived by April)
  C1 at bottom of North Face on ice plateau
  C2 on North Face
  C3 on North Face
  C4 on North Face.

  Snow avalanches, plus rock barrier at high altitude, and strong wind above 7500m where Wedge Peak no longer provides shelter.

  Planned to climb pillar but did not climb on it all because of dangerous ice and seracs, so made route to its left (but no so far left as Americans, who were on Scott route). Above C4 reached ridge connecting Kangchenjunga and Yalungkang Bergant fell to his death and there upon Cesen walked up and down all night into metre path he made for himself (had left his oxygen at top).

  Expedition stopped climb as usual after a death. Had hoped to send 10 members to top. All had gone very quickly and smoothly. Route easier than 1979 West Ridge Everest climb but as difficult as South Face Makalu. Connecting ridge very long bad rock.

  Bergant fell at 9:00 pm on 22nd because very tired without oxygen was at about 8300m just below connecting ridge.


  Short outline of the first ascent of Yalung Kang (8505m) Expedition from from the north by the leader Tone Skarja

  The place for first camp was reached. On this day we decided to continue Warth's route (1983) in North Face of Kangchenjunga to snow couloir between Kangchenjunga and Yalung Kang and across snow slopes and ridge to the summit of Yalung Kang (8505m). Later a party of four climbers should try to climb North Buttress to the summit in alpine style and descend across new normal route. We decided to establish only 4 camps.

  On April 1st we established Camp 1 (5820m, 4 tents).

  From April 2nd to 8th: a steep ice step between 6000m and 6200m was climbed and equipped with fixed ropes and ladder.

  On April 9th Camp 2 was pitched.

  From April 10th to 14th: The steepest part of the face was equipped with fixed ropes (6700-7350m).

  On April 15th Camp was pitched.

  On April 16th Bence and Podgornik climbed the hardest part of the face (7500m) and reached snow slopes which are leading to rocky summit pyramid of Yalung Kang.

  On April 19th Kozjek the member of next climbing party reached the place for camp 4. Karo passed the night in tent, but he returned to T1 next morning.

  On April 21st Bergant, Cesen and Pemba Nuru Sherpa brought oxygen equipment and bottles to T4. Later Pemba Nuru returned to T3.

  On April 22nd at 6:30 Bergant and Cesen left T4. Bergant decided to climb without additional oxygen. From couloir between Kangchenjunga and Yalung Kang they reached East Ridge of Yalung Kang. They climbed it on south side (bad rock). At 14:30 after radio contact with BC they found a good passage around rocky edge and at 15:00 they reached very steep snow field which led them to the summit. They reached the summit at 16:30. This was the first ascent of Yalung Kang from the north side. On the summit they found bamboo stick of Korean Expedition and they left Cesen's oxygen bottle. They took some photos with Slovene-Nepali flags and at 17:00 they left summit. At 17:00 they had last radio contact with BC. During their ascent and descent the weather was fine.

  In the last difficult place in snow couloir Bergant slipped without any objective reason and disappeared in depth at 21,000 during their preparation for abseiling. Due to crevasses above T4 Cesen stopped his descent and made a narrow terrace in ice slope where we talked all the night not to fall asleep and get frostbite. With Bergant also Walkie-Talkie was lost.

  On April 23rd at 7:00 Cesen descended to T4. From BC we saw two persons descending but later we made sure that was only our imagination. During his descent Cesen looked over crevasses but he didn't find any trace of his friend. He had a short rest in T4 and later continued his descent. At 10:30 he met Bende and Podgornik and via their walkie-talkie sent report about accident to BC.

  They all together with Jeglic descended to T1 and next day to BC. Cesen didn't get any serious injuries he suffered only on dehydration and doctor helped him with infusion next day.

  We decided to stop our expedition.

  On April 24th we were looking for traces of Bergant in the face under T4 in the height of T2 (6500m). During last night a new snow fell and avalanches were so often that it was impossible to find anything.

  From April 24th to 27th the weather was getting worse during evacuation from the mountain. We evacuated all the camps except T4.

  On April 29th we had commemoration near base camp on Pangpema. On big rock we cut Bergant's name.

  On April 29th we prepared the last equipment for departure (all together 110 loads).

  From April 30th to May 12th our return march Pangpema to Hile. We stayed one day in Ghunsa.

  From May 13th to 14th truck and bus transport Hile to Kathmandu.

  From May 15th to 22nd we had to stay in KTM because off problems with airway tickets and to clear all formalities.

  From May 22nd to 27th flight KTM to Ljubljana.

accidents:
  Bergant fell at 9:00 pm on Apr 22 because very tired without oxygen (at 8300m just below connecting ridge); no serious frostbite or illnesses


expid: OHMI85101
peakid: OHMI
year: 1985
route1: W Face-SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Ruedi Meier
sponsor: Swiss-Nepalese Ohmi Kangri Expedition 1985
ascent1: 1st-3rd
approach: From southwest (Yangma)
bcdate: 1985-03-23
smtdate: 1985-04-14
smttime: 1215
termdate: 1985-04-20
campsites: BC(23/03,5130m),C1(27/03,5740m),C2(30/03,6450m),C3(10/04,6810m),Smt(14,18,20/04)
accidents: None
achievment: 1st ascent of Ohmi Kangri
routememo:
  BC at Pandra Glacier east of Syao
  C1 on glacier west of SW Ridge
  C2 on SW Ridge (Japanese C3 site) well protected
  C3 on SW Ridge (1 or 2 hours before from "East Peaks" of Japan).

  Reached C2 from Glacier up West Face to camp's site on ridge, where route reached ridge, West Face not steep or difficult - all snow (no ice). Ridge itself not very difficult but from C2 to C3 (took time fixing rope - 420m fixed rope). From C3 to summit only 50m fixed rope, used alpine technique (in contrast to Japanese who spent much time fixing lots of rope to "Japanese" summit). Weather was very good and every day "we did something" but very strong wind and at C3 Sherpa's tent destroyed by wind.

  Had planned to climb West Ridge but found it too dangerous from avalanches. Also expeditions goal was for all members to reach summit and too difficult to reach West Ridge from glacier because of icefalls for all members.


  Rieder, Swiss - 16 May 85

  Ohmi Kangri really has one summit. Point needed by Japanese in '82 is just a point on SW Ridge. There are 2 points on SW Ridge: "East Peak" and "Central Peak," but real summit is the northwest or "West Peak." Ohmi Kangri is a large dome without difficulty. We followed SW Ridge over two teeth, "East and Central Peaks" to highest point. East and Central are no summits, only two difficulties on the ridge.


expid: GAUR85101
peakid: GAUR
year: 1985
route1: S Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Kensaku Sakai
sponsor: Team La Neige Gaurishankar Expedition 1985
approach: Rolwaling from Simigaon
bcdate: 1985-04-09
smtdate: 1985-05-02
termdate: 1985-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to Sakai's fatal accident
campsites: BC(09/04,4200m),ABC(14/04,5100m),xxx(02/05,6500m)
accidents: Sakai fatal fall at 5900m
achievment: 1st death on Gaurishanker
routememo:
  BC  at Tanmarang valley
  ABC on rock in glacier on Schneider map north of "A" & northwest of "L" 
  C3  above ABC only bivouacs
  High point at just under SW Ridge.

  Sakai slipped at 6100m during summit push on May 9 and was injured (head, chest and shoulder). Both bivouacked at 6100m. May 10 during descent he again slipped at 5900m, Oizumi could not find body.

  Ascent route was S Face direct via central couloir and higher in summit attack to above couloir at 6100m on 9 May after several trips up for acclimatization and to fix ropes on descent route (Yugoslav routes) to right of Japanese ascent route. Reached 6500m on 2 May but above 6500m very difficult face and very strong wind and snow shower on 3 May. 4 May to BC. 

  Began summit push 7 May and went to ABC. 8 May to 5800m and on 9 May to 6100m where were searching biv site when Sakai fell and climb finished. Oizumi bived at 5600m 10 May and at ABC 11 May. If no accident, could have reached South Summit on 11 or 12 May and would have tried for Main summit if weather good and their condition good.

  Sakai slipped at 6100m during summit push. At 16:40 hours on 9 May he slipped and about 35m was injured and both bivouacked at 6100m. 10 May during descent again he slipped perhaps 500m. Could not find body. Oizumi was injured in head, shoulder and chest on 9 May.

  Oizumi would like to try Gaurishankar again on 3 or 4-man team.


  Banskota Tourism - 20 May 85

  During come of last attempt on summit, leader Kansaku Sakai, born 1957, co-employee from Kanagawa City, slipped from 5900m at 1:20 pm on May 10. As per Tsuyoshi Ooizumi, born 1959 co-employee Sapporo City, body was not found and he believes Sakai is dea. Abandoning expedition left BC with Lo on 14 May and arrived KTM to day.

  Highest point 6500m 3 May on South Face. 4 May to BC. 7 May to go to ABC on another push in 7-10 days.


  Lindsay Griffin (email) - 12 Jan 2014

  Poles made the first significant attempt on the South Face in 1983, coming in from the left to gain the steep, shallow couloir left of the Central Pillar. Wieslaw Grzybowski, Lech Kiedrowski, Andrzej Mirga and Tadeusz Preyzner reached ca 6000m before making a difficult retreat in heavy snowfall. In 1985 the same line was attempted by Tsuyoshi Ohizumi and Kensaku Sakai. Three years previously the latter had made a notable first ascent of 7163m Hachindar Chhish in the Karakoram. The Japanese pair climbed in three days to 6100m when Sakai fell and hit his head. They bivouacked and descended the next day, but at 5900m Sakai fell again, this time to the bottom of the face. Ohizumi was unable to locate his body and the face was left alone until 2011 when Stefan Glowacz, David Goettler and Klaus Fengler arrived to attempt the Central Pillar. The weather was so bad they were only able to climb a rope-length above the base before giving up.


expid: GURJ85101
peakid: GURJ
year: 1985
route1: NW Face-W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Shoichi Kobayashi
sponsor: Joint Nepalese-Japanese Three Peaks Expedition 1985
ascent1: 5th
bcdate: 1985-04-04
smtdate: 1985-04-29
smttime: 1345
othersmts: Planned Churen Himal (CHUR-851-01) and Dhaulagiri VI only
campsites: BC(04/04,4200m),C1(07/04,4700m),C2(20/04,5800m),C3(26/04,6500m),Smt(29/04)
routememo:
  BC at Kaphe Khola near point 4100m on Dhaulagiri map
  C1 on glacier near point 4738m
  C2 on west side of Ghustang North's small North Ridge
  C3 at NW Face of Gurja.

  Route was easy mostly: below C2 and on W Ridge required some fixed rope 140m on final ridge and C1 to C2 750m. On summit day left C3 5:30 am and on top 1:45 pm after fixing rope as they moved up that day. In descent Kobayashi fell after his crampon broke and came off. He was on ridge just above col at 6800m. Had good weather during climb not much snowfall.

  Makes no attempt to scale Churen or Dhaulagiri VI.

  Kobayashi fell 40m hitting head and body on rock and ice. He was carried down to C3 where he died at 8:30 pm on 29 April. Taue had stomach trouble so he and doctor left 1 week ahead of others, but then climb finished.

  3 Nepalese "members" were the 3 Sherpas.

accidents:
  Kabayashi fell 40m hitting head & body on rock, ice (carried down to C3 where he died on Apr 29); 1 member had stomach trouble; doctor left 1 week ahead of others, but then climb finished


expid: CHOY85102
peakid: CHOY
year: 1985
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: China
leaders: Rinchen Phuntsok
sponsor: Tibetan Cho Oyu Expedition, Spring 1985
ascent1: 12th
bcdate: 1985-04-15
smtdate: 1985-05-01
smttime: 1535
agency: None
campsites:
  BC(15/04,4959m),C1(14/04,5400m),C2(15/04,5700m),C3(18/04,6300m),C4(27/04,6900m),C5(30/04,7200m),Smt(01/05)

routememo:
  Gardzielewski and Kochanczyk - 5 June 85

  Chinese BC base at Dzapoma according to 2 Swiss geologists who have been there.

  Poles found 18 broken and unbroken Chinese antique-type ice axes and much fixed rope. On top found Chinese al snow, many prayer flags and amulets and on top of stake was metal Chinese flag (near one star was photo of Spanish girl) and red sack containing 2 Chinese notes. Also yellow oxygen bottles similar to found in Chinese C2 (French make). On top rack hammer and pitons, poles left flag on top.
   
  Chinese C1 was Spanish C1 1985 Spring
  C2 very near Spanish C2 - 6350m
  C3 (French oxygen bottle found here)
  C4 full sack of tsampa and other food remnants including many fresh meat bones - 7050m. Poles Biv4, Spaniards C3

  Any higher Chinese camp not found. Probably used slightly different route to top.


  Garayoa and Uriarte - June 3, 85

  The Chinese approached Cho Oyu via the Gyabrag Glacier from the north and then followed the same route via West Ridge-West Face, the normal route, as the Spaniards also followed.

  The Spanish Basques found the Chinese Tibetans fixed ropes and broken Chinese made ice axes along the route. On the summit they found a small metal Chinese flag, a red rectangle with seven gold stars.

  The Basques did not actually see the Tibetans themselves, the Basques said. They were busy at base camp and deposit camp until early May, by which time the Tibetans had left the mountain. (Very probably the Basques were actually lying low until the Tibetans finished their climb so that the Basques would not be seen by Chinese to have crossed the border into Tibet).


  Random pages from Chinese book on Tibetan Cho Oyu Expedition Spring 1985

  The others, led by team leader Renqing Pingcuo, bore in mind the trust placed in them by people throughout the country and the Autonomous region. They encouraged one another by means of brief speech or gesture when they came to the end of a long ice and snow slope, the nine mounaineers were surprised to find light ahead and no more height was in sight. What they saw was cloud under their feet and blue sky emerging above.

  At 17:50 hours CST (15:35 NST) the nine Tibetan alpinists successfully, ascended the world's sixth highest mountain and planted the five star flag atop it. Renqing Pingcuo reported in ultra short wave walkie-talkie. The other members took photos, collected specimens and mark inscribed with the words "The Tibetan Mountaineering Expedition" and the design of the five star flag. After remaining atop for half an hour, the nine summiters brimming with victory and lofty sentiments, descended. Night set in when they were on their way home. They could rely on the white ice and snow and the dim moonlight to find their way back to the assault camp. With help from their fellow members, they returned to the base camp in safety.


expid: PUMO85101
peakid: PUMO
year: 1985
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Arthur Haid
sponsor: Tirolean Himalayan Expedition to Pumori 1985
ascent1: 21st-23rd
bcdate: 1985-04-07
smtdate: 1985-04-21
termdate: 1985-04-26
campsites: BC(07/04,5240m),C1(11/04,5840m),C2(15/04,6130m),C3(18/04,6550m),Smt(21,23,26/04)
accidents: Doctor's mildly frostbitten toes from summit push; no accidents or serious illness
achievment: 1st Austrian ascent
routememo:
  BC at planned site
  C1 under rocks on left side of glacier southwest of site marked on photo
     (on ridge from Kalapattar)
  C3 in ice on West Face (behind ridge).

  To C1 at 6150m very steep and in fact to C3 entire route is steep. Their information was all from Swiss account of their ascent in Aut 1978.

  Very nice route, very steep, rock to about C3, all snow and ice from C3 to top. No real problems but European 4-5 scale rock climbing. 1000m fixed rope installed up to C3 from C1 including all of route from C2 to C3. Had beautiful weather every day until 27 April when were clearing camps after end of climb, it snowed.

  Doctor's mildly frostbitten toes from summit push; no accidents or serious illness.


  4 members and 1 Sherpa to top on 23 and 26 April
  23rd - Wippler, Rainer, Kienpointner
  26th - Haid
         Ang Lhakpa, 23, Khunde

  Rainier frostbitten toes of both feet expedition left BC 28 April.


expid: CHOB85101
peakid: CHOB
year: 1985
route1: SW Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: John Marsden Nankervis
sponsor: Victoria Cook Chobuje Expedition, 1985
ascent1: 2nd
approach: Suinigaun->Beding
bcdate: 1985-04-04
smtdate: 1985-05-10
smttime: 0830
termdate: 1985-05-14
accidents: None except minor frostbites
achievment: 1st New Zealand ascent
campsites:
  BC(04/04,4400m),C1(01/05,5500m),Biv1(06/05,5730m),Biv2(07/05,5970m),Biv3(08/05,6100m),Biv4(09/05,6340m),Smt(10/05)

routememo:
  BC  at 1-1/2 hours above Na at junction fo Trakarding and Ripimo Shar Glacier
  C1  at SW ribs on ridge.
  Biv at same
  Biv at same
  Biv at same (left the one tent here).

  Keen on alpine-style but expedition will need one high camp. Lower section of climb with rock bands. May have to shift to E Ridge if too much objective danger from SW. Also may attempt a traverse.

  All 5 members began summit push on 6 May from C1 with one 3 man tent and food for 4 days and came back 7 days later. 9th May made summit attempt but slept in crevasse in sleeping bags and got to top on 10th. In descent stayed in biv at 20,000 ft in bad weather. Back to BC on 13th. Route was a variation of 1884 autumn.

  Canada-British team had underestimated mountain rock section between 18,500 to 20,000 ft had snow on it and 1000 ft rock and ice arrete above 20,000 ft to top.


  Baskota, Tourism - 19 May 85

  All 5 members reached top at 8:10 am 10 May; started from biv 6300m at 5:30 am and on top in fair weather; 1 hour on top; arrived C4 (6000m) at 4:30 pm; stayed in C4 on 11 May because of snowfall, 12 May to C1 and BC 13 May.

  Nankervis left fingers and Harris right toes slight frostbite.

  Planned to leave BC 17 May.


  Banskota, Tourism - 7 May 85

  All 5 members established C1 at 5600m on 1 May.


expid: MANA85101
peakid: MANA
year: 1985
route1: E Ridge-NE Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Wilfried Studer
sponsor: Vorarlberg-Tirol Himalayan Expedition 1985 Manaslu
ascent1: 25th
approach: Marshyangdi->Dara Khola
bcdate: 1985-04-07
smtdate: 1985-05-01
smttime: 1500
termdate: 1985-05-08
termnote: 2nd attempt aborted due to accident, bad weather
campsites: BC(07/04,4500m),C1(11/04,5500m),C2(13/04,6000m),C3(20/04,6500m),Smt(01/05)
achievment: 1st ascent via E Ridge
routememo:
  BC on north side of East Ridge above Samagaon
  C1 on East Ridge 
  C2 on East Ridge
  C3 east of Ridge at foot of NE Face.

  New route: last 700m steep rock and ice, and the altitude and steepness is not known; have little information of details of route (do not know if Yugoslavs climbed face).

  From C3 climbed to summit plateau crossing under NE Face. From plateau followed normal way to summit. On 23 April 1st summit bid by Studer, Ang Kami and Lhakpa (sirdar), but could not go above C3 on 24th because of heavy snowfall night of 23 April, so went down. 

  On 29 Arpil again up (from BC on 29th to C2). Arrived C3 30 April. At 10:00 pm 30th started for top (night climb because always clear at night). Studer, Mayerhofer and Ang Kami set out, but Mayerhofer turned back after 100m because fingers freezing. Studer and Ang Kami climbed till moonlight gone at 1:00 am again moved up about 4:30 am and reached top 3:00 pm. Took longer than expected - spent night at saddle at 7400m waiting again for sun, 

  Studer slight frostbite in feet on summit push.

  Gabl, Juen, Ljubanovic and Schranz left BC to C2 on 1 May and C3 on 2 May. 3 May much snowfall. 4 May from C3 at 5:00 am (3 men, Ljubanovic to BC). Gabl, Juen and Schranz reached 7300m at 10:00 am, couldn't find way from there to plateau in cloud, turned back at 3:00 pm when now snowfall stopped. Juen at 500m from C2 (not vertical distance) slipped in vertical icefall above C3 and avalanche started at same time and he was swept away with no sign of where he went. No more attempts at summit.


  Banskota, Tourism - 3 May 85

  Studer and Ang Kami Sherpa summit from East Ridge to NE Face at 3:00 pm 1 May. Raised Nepal and Austrian flags and took photos. Cloudy and windy at top, 5 minutes stay. Started from C3 at 10:00 pm 30 Arpil. Studer returned BC 9:50 pm 1 May. Other 4 members intended to reach summit.

  Studer leaves BC for KTM arrival 6 May; others leave BC after 1 week from 3 May.

accidents:
  Studer slight frostbite in feet on summit push; 4 members left BC to camps due to much snowfall; Juen at 500m above C3 slipped in vertical icefall starting avalanche that swept him away


expid: GAN185301
peakid: GAN1
year: 1985
route1: W Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Park Ji-Weon
sponsor: 1985 Korean Ganesh Himal I Expedition
approach: Trisuli Khola->Thangjet->Mulkhana (proposed)
bcdate: 1985-10-29
smtdate: 1985-11-11
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to rock and ice pitches
campsites: BC(29/10,4050m),C1(01/11,4400m),C2(04/11,5100m),C3(09/11,5700m),xxx(11/11,6200m)
accidents: None
achievment: 1st Korean attempt
routememo:
  BC at Tora Gompa Glacier
  C1 at Tora Gompa Glacier
  C2 on West Ridge
  C3 on West Ridge.

  Had to change climbing route: learned 2 days before 18th Oct departure from KTM that South Ridge from Nepal on China border [closed] and therefore must climb another route and change approach route to go from Trisuli Bazar via Arughat Bazar, up Buri Gandaki to Sirdibas, then Siyar Khola and Tora Gompa Khola. 

  From C1 to C3 all vertical ridge of rock and ice so when Sherpas dropped load of pitons on 11 Nov and load lost in 1000m drop, had to stop climb. Climb was difficult and dangerous and perhaps "lost load intentionally." Very good weather everyday; very difficult for small team of Koreans when Nepal "members" didn't work, made trouble, demanded more money.

  Expedition left KTM very late because baggage did not arrive on schedule.


expid: HIMN85302
peakid: HIMN
year: 1985
route1: N Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Kyn-Jin
sponsor: 1985 Korean Himalchuli N Expedition
ascent1: 1st
approach: Buri Gandaki
bcdate: 1985-10-02
smtdate: 1985-10-27
termdate: 1985-10-30
termnote: 2nd attempt turned back by winds
campsites: BC(02/10,4050m),C1(03/10,4440m),C2(05/10,5320m),C3(24/10,6400m),Biv(26/10,6800m),Smt(27/10)
accidents: None
achievment: 1st ascent of this summit
routememo:
  BC at east side of ridge coming south from West Peak
  C1 at east side of South Ridge = South Face
  C2 at east side of South Ridge = South Face
  C3 on SW Ridge
  C4 at north side of West Ridge near its junction with SW Ridge and South Ridge.

  Heavy snow in first part of Oct. Broke tents at C1 and C2 and made new camps before establishing C3. Then to summit on 27 Oct. 

  Another summit bid 30 Oct by Nam with 2 Sherpas but turned back because strong wind broke tents at C3 and had to descend. Now no food. 

  High-very steep snow face from C2 to snow hole bivouac site at 6800m. Team fixed 1800m rope on mountain.

  Villagers nearest to BC said they had never seen foreigners before.

  Kim Euk-Suk went to C2.


expid: AMAD85302
peakid: AMAD
year: 1985
route1: S Ridge up; SW Ridge down
route2: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Hooman Aprin
sponsor: American Ama Dablam Expedition 1985
ascent1: 44th
ascent2: 41st w/Italy
countries: Spain
approach: Pangboche->Nare Drangka
bcdate: 1985-10-21
smtdate: 1985-11-07
achievment: New route; 2nd traverse?
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
campsites:
  BC(21/10,4600m),ABC(25/10,5300m),C1(27/10,5600m),Biv1(01/11,5800m),Biv2(04/11,6000m),Biv3(05/11,6300m),Biv4(06/11,6500m),Smt(07/11)

routememo:
  BC  at 4600m next to Italians (not intended site because of fresh
      deep snow where yaks couldn't go)
  ABC at 5300m south of point 5705m
  C1  at 5600m on S Ridge at start of steep section
  Biv 1 at 5800m on ridge
  Biv 2 at 6000m on ridge
  Biv 3 at 6300m on ridge
  Biv 4 at 6500m in icefall on South Face (now joined standard route).

  No tent sites above C1 because narrow ice ridge. To Biv1 spent 4 days fixing rope from C1 and 3 days fixing rope from Biv1 to Biv2. At Biv1 Kurtz was with 3 summiters but 2 Nov complained of shoulder pain and went down. technical difficulties same as on standard route but less rock and more exposed cornices, more snow.

  Pete Athans on 25 Oct joined Italian-French, etc group and went to their C1 that day under agreement where by if he joined fixing rope he could go to top with them. Aprin thinks he thought S Ridge might be too difficult a route to be sure to get to summit that way.

  No accidents except Kurtz's pulled shoulder muscle and some members illness from stream polluted by Italians carelessness.

  [Ridge running south from summit, east of standard route SW Ridge and of S Face, says Pete Athans 26 May 1994]


  Pete Athans - 20 Dec 85

  Athans went to summit of Ama Dablam on 2 Nov. Had gone over to Italian/French party because they needed help to get fixed ropes in place for client climbers; had intended to rejoin Aprin and team, but time was running out (he had to join Roger Marshall's group for Cho Oyu in winter), so did not go back to American expedition.

accidents:
  None except Kurtz pulled shoulder muscle & some members' illness from stream polluted by Italian's carelessness


expid: KUSU85301
peakid: KUSU
year: 1985
route1: N Face
route2: NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Tom Dickey, Trevor Pilling
sponsor: Anglo-American Kusum Kanguru Expedition 1985
ascent1: 5th?
countries: UK
smtdate: 1985-11-08
campsites: Smt(08/11)
achievment: Slight frostbite by Curtis and Ball
agency: None
routememo:
  Not much information on the file. It has been noted that there were 4 deaths of Sherpas [Dickey  and Curtis refute this - see below]

  Alpine-style ascent of N Face expedition sat out bad weather at base camp most of the month of October. Tom Dickey had to leave the expedition because of guiding commitments to other trekking peaks. The team returned in Nov and T. Pilling and Japanese teamed up to attempt a route on the N Face of the lower peak without success. John Ball and Tom Curtis climbed the face in 4 days and 2 days down the dangerous serac barrier between the peaks.


  Tom Dickey (via email to Salisbury) - 19 Jan 2004

  We only had the 4 of us. We had a few porters bring some stuff to base, but they all left. No one was hurt.

  I don't recall when we got to base - probably early Sept. The weather was bad for a long time, and we were storm bound for a couple of weeks, so we left for a while. I had guiding commitments and had to meet my clients. The three of them went up to the Gokyo region to do some "trekking." I don't know what they did. They then returned and John Ball and Tom Curtis did an alpine ascent of the North Face (the first) over several days. I seem to recall it was 3 days, up 2 down - going down the NE Ridge with much difficulty. Trevor tried a different route with a Japanese guy left of the NE Ridge but didn't get very high. Trevor disappeared in the Annapurna Sanctuary with his girlfriend a few years later.
    
  I tried the face the spring (May) before that alpine style with Steve Ruoss, after his attempt on the NE Ridge with Jim Traverso, Geoff Tabin and Dave Dossiter. We got a little way up the face (1/3?) before getting stormed off; we were almost swept off and down the runnel we were in, but managed to get down. The storm continued for another 4 days and we ran out of supplies.


expid: MANA85301
peakid: MANA
year: 1985
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Felipe Uriarte Camara
sponsor: Basque Expedition Manaslu 1985
approach: Buri Gandaki->Samagaon
bcdate: 1985-09-12
smtdate: 1985-10-03
termdate: 1985-10-26
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to avalanche danger, bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(12/09,3800m),ABC(20/09,4850m),C1(01/10,5450m),C2(05/10,6300m),xxx(03-05/10,6300m)
accidents: One member fell but not really hurt
routememo:
  BC  above Samagaon
  ABC on a ridge
  C1  at col above glacier
  C2  on NE Face
  High point at C2.

  Much fixed rope from C1 to C2 and between ABC and C1, total 300m rope. 5th Oct down for 2 days in ABC before summit push but had to stay 15 days at low camps because very deep snow with great avalanche danger. 21st Oct started up again and spent one day digging out ABC. 22 Oct found one tent at C1 after digging and on 23rd Oct dug out C1 where much equipment. 24th Oct slept at C1 and 25th Oct checked equipment intending make summit push beginning 26th Oct, but 25th Japanese had avalanche taking away 4 Japanese and 4 Sherpas at their C3 so cancelled summit plans to help. Avalanche showed condition of Manaslu's wide face: risk of avalanche above very big, very strong wind.


expid: TUKU85301
peakid: TUKU
year: 1985
route1: N Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Shin Ho-Jin
sponsor: Busan Teachers College Alpine Club Expedition to Tukuche
ascent1: 8th
approach: Tukuche Village->Dhampus Pass
bcdate: 1985-08-27
smtdate: 1985-09-04
smttime: 0740
termdate: 1985-09-05
campsites: BC(27/08,4350m),C1(01/09,5200m),C2(02/09,6100m),Smt(04/09)
accidents: None except leader's stomach trouble which kept him in BC
routememo:
  BC at north end of Hidden Valley between point 5087 and North Ridge of little
     Tukuche Peak
  C1 on North Ridge
  C2 also on North Ridge past middle summit.

  According to the Ministry of Tourism the summiters included two South Korean climbers and two Nepalese Sherpas.

  The successful South Korean climbers are 22-year-old Yong Jeong-Hwan, student from Dai Jeong city, and 23-year-old Leon Doo-Hee, a teacher from Busan.

  Similarly, the Nepalese summiters have been identified as Ang Dorje Sherpa, a 27-year-old sirdar from Sankhuwasabha district and 25-year-old Gelbu Sherpa from Khotang district.

  The four had started from the C2 at the height of 5900m at 06:00 hrs on Sep 4 and spent 20 minutes at the peak. They hoisted the national flags of Nepal and the Republic of Korea at the summit and took photographs. They started descending at 08:00 hours and reached the base camp at 14:00 hours.

  Health of all the successful climbers is reported to be good.
  The expedition is led by 31-year-old primary school teacher Shin Jho-Jin.


  Received 21 Aug 85 from Leader Shin Ho-Jin

  Started from Pokhara in Aug 15. We were stolen [equipment] by the Nepalese Robber in Navadanda. That time Aug 16 2:30 am. My equipment is Sherpa's equipment. Now our caravan is very delayed. Our expedition's very sad now.
  * While we were sleeping that stolen.


expid: DHA185301
peakid: DHA1
year: 1985
route1: W Face (to 7250m)
route2: SW Pillar (to 6800m)
nation: Czechoslovakia
leaders: Jiri Novak
sponsor: Czechoslovak Expedition Dhaulagiri 1985
countries: Italy
approach: Myagdi Khola
bcdate: 1985-09-08
smtdate: 1985-10-25
termnote: Abandoned at 7250m due to wind and lack of food
achievment: 1st attempt on this W Face route
campsites:
  BC(08/09,3700m),Dep(09/09,4300m),C1(19/09,5100m),C2(30/09,5900m),C3(06/10,6300m),C4(20/10,6900m),xxx(25-26/10,7250m)

routememo:
  BC at Myagdi Khola 2 hours NNE of Puchbar
  Deposit at 4300m at right side of West Face 
  C2 at 5900m at right side of West Face
  C3 at 6300m at right side of West Face
  C4 at 6900m at right side of West Face.

  2000m of difficulty between 4500m and 6500m on pillar towards South Ridge of W Face, very hard rock climbing. This is one of highest unclimbed lines on any mountain.

  SW Pillar alpine-style team reached 6800m before weather turned bad. After 10th Oct, entire team concentrated on W Face route.

  3 days without any rain, 10 other days half-day good weather, all other days from arrival to departure BC bad weather (rain/snow) plus strong wind towards end. Stopped climb on 26th because strong wind destroying all tents as 24th and 25th nights (so 26th party used snow cave at 7100m night before). On 26th all down in BC. 

  Meanwhile from 2 Oct to 12 Oct another party Bozik, Demjan and Rakoncaj went to 6800m as French SW Pillar in alpine-style, but Demjan had infected foot and weather bad so descended. From 14 Oct only 10 members in BC while 8 not so strong sent to KTM to save food. On face very hard rock climbing for 1600m.

  24th Sept between C1 and C2 (about 5600m) Krizo fell 50m with snow and twisted knee, needing to be brought down. "Same avalanches with people" but no one injured.

accidents:
  1 member fell 50m with snow and twisted knee (needing to be brought down); avalanches with people but no one injured


expid: BARU85301
peakid: BARU
year: 1985
route1: SE Ridge (SE or SSE Ridge)
nation: W Germany
leaders: Hermann Tauber
sponsor: DAV Baruntse Expedition
ascent1: 19th,20th
countries: Italy, Netherlands, Switzerland
bcdate: 1985-10-25
smtdate: 1985-11-01
campsites: BC(25/10,5400m),C1(29/10,6100m),C2(31/10,6450m),Smt(01-02/11)
accidents: One member mildly sick; nothing else
routememo:
  BC near west shore of lake south of Hinku glacier (below "k" on Schneider map)
  C1 at West Col (little below col)
  C2 at beginning of SE Ridge.

  Group not strong enough for this climb in such deep snow. First part above camp 2 was 85-degree ice for 30-35m and required fixed rope. Ridge on right side extremely steep ice and left side steep rocks; knife edge ridge.

  Only 11 reached BC: Bechler, Beer, De Bokx and Moenig turned back.


expid: MANN85301
peakid: MANN
year: 1985
route1: N Ridge (permit for trekking only)
nation: W Germany
leaders: Friedrich (Fritz) Zintl
sponsor: DAV Manaslu North Expedition
countries: Austria, Switzerland
approach: Buri Gandaki->Samde
bcdate: 1985-10-26
smtdate: 1985-10-27
termnote: Abandoned at 4950m due to dangerous conditions and lack of rock pitons
othersmts: Samdo Pk & 8200m
campsites: BC(26/10,4800m),C1(27/10,4950m),C2(30/10,4900m),xxx(4950m)
accidents: One member got altitude sickness on way to Larkya Pass
routememo:
  BC at Larkya Glacier
  C1 at foot of wall below ridge
  C2 near Larkya Pass (for going round to northwest side).

  Zintl and 4 members went for recce to see a route to North Ridge, but found it required rock pitons on only safe route and made another camp here. Then went round to northwest side of mountain through Larkya Pass, but here chest-deep snow in approach. Had a second camp at 4900m near Larkya Pass. Never really on the mountain: in better snow conditions could have climbed couloir to ridge; in conditions as they found them, needed rock pitons which did not have (for fixing 500m rope on rocky section between two dangerous couloirs).


expid: KAG185301
peakid: KAG1
year: 1985
route1: N Ridge from Kagmara La
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Sjoero Ybema
sponsor: Dutch Kagmara Expedition
approach: Garpung Khola
bcdate: 1985-10-18
smtdate: 1985-10-22
termdate: 1985-10-23
termnote: Abandoned at 5700m due to bad snow conditions and lack of time
campsites: BC(18/10,4900m),C1(21/10,5200m),xxx(22/10,5700m)
accidents: Appel sick at BC and left expedition
routememo:
  BC west-northwest of Kagmara La
  C1 1/2 hour before Kagmara La.

  Dick Kortekaas and Hans Oostindien slept at C1 that night and then all down to BC. Snow conditions bad and running out of time and of food in this food-deficit area. Then saw Dolpa and this visit really the principal goal of Hebbelink and others.


expid: SAIP85301
peakid: SAIP
year: 1985
route1: W Ridge
route2: SW Face up; W Ridge down
nation: Spain
leaders: Joaquim Prunes
sponsor: Expedicio Himalaya-85 to Saipal
ascent1: 2nd,4th
ascent2: 3rd
countries: France
approach: Kando->Ghat Khola
bcdate: 1985-09-26
smtdate: 1985-10-22
smttime: 1300
termdate: 1985-10-25
campsites: BC(26/09,4150m),C1(29/09,4950m),C2(05/10,5800m),C3(21/10,6500m),Smt(22,24-25/10)
accidents: None
achievment: 1st traverse; new routes; 1st Spanish and French ascents
routememo:
  BC at 4150m on east moraine of Saipal Glacier;
     150m above Austrian, Japanese BCs and because from here can see mountain
  C1 at 4950m at top of a pyramid
  C2 at 5800m just above West Col on West Ridge
  C3 at 6500m at West Ridge shoulder.

  5th to 16th Oct heavy snow. 5 Oct C2 pitched but no one slept there. All in BC during this period with heavys snow breaking tents. Up again 18th Oct and actually slept in C2 for first time on 20th Oct. 1st summit success on 22nd Oct at 1:00 via West Ridge. C1 to 2 greatest difficulties: 1st 300m rock wall then up to 55-degree snow and ice couloir. Fixed 1600m rope from C1 to C2. Along W Ridge 400m of 45 degrees and then 200m of knife-edge to C3. Immediately above C3 easy until last 200m step of 45 degrees below summit. 22nd Oct team returned to C3 that night in good but windy weather. 23rd to BC. 21st Bros Busquet and Angeles Soler left C1 at 3 am, bivouacked at 6000m on SW Face, 22nd biv 6450m, 23rd bivouac in cave at 7000m at lesser summit. All 3 descended together to BC.

  Wall starts at 45 degrees and most is 55 degrees in deep snow requiring tiring step-making; at 6700m blue ice only about 50m.


expid: ANNS85301
peakid: ANNS
year: 1985
route1: E(SE) Face-E Ridge
nation: Greece
leaders: Mike Tsoukias
sponsor: First Greek Himalayan Expedition to Annapurna South
approach: Modi Khola
bcdate: 1985-09-18
smtdate: 1985-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to fatal avalanche
campsites: BC(18/09,4200m),C1(20/09,4850m),C2(03/10,5400m),C3(21/10,6400m),xxx(22/10,6500m)
achievment: 1st Greek expedition in all Himalaya
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  BC at Annapurna Sanctuary, NE of Himalchuli and under it
  C1 at 4850m on a ridge where this small ridge joins East Face
  C2 at 5400m on East Face where face becomes SE Face (on rock)
  C3 at 6400m on face in middle of two couloir
  High point on face.

  After C2, 11 days of continious snow and had lost considerable C3 and C4 equipment in avalanche on 25 Sept so progress badly delayed. Gianakoulis and Tsilogiorgis left expedition before C3 established (Tsilogiorgis regarding his job). 22 Oct avalanche hit at 11:45 am: Bountolas and German hit first, then Lambris who was cooking at C3, Tsatsaragos sleeping in C3 and Tsoukias in sun at C3. No avalanche had never came down this section before. C3 completely destroyed.

  Gianakoulis fell in glacier and injured toes; left expedition about 17 Oct; Dimitris badly injured in fall approach march on 17 Sept. Bountolas and Tsatsaragos killed by avalanche of 22 Oct; Tsoukias taken 200m uninjured while Bountolas, Lambris and Tsatsaragos and German taken 800m over rocks; badly injured by survived 1st avalanche but killed by 2nd one. Lambris moved by 2nd avalanche 4-5m and has broken knee from 1st avalanche.

  West German 1 day behind Greeks on same route by agreement.


  Kunga Sherpa - 22 Sep 85

  Kunga went on rescue flight yesterday for member of Greek Annapurna South expedition, Sotarikis, who fell down 30m rock wall on approach to BC on 17 Sept; apparently injured spinal column: cannot move.

  Expedition made BC on 19 Sept and C1 at 5000m 21 Sept.

accidents:
  1 member fell in glacier 7 injured toes; 1 member badly injured in fall on approach march; 2 members killed by avalanches, and 1 member had broken knee


expid: MAK285302
peakid: MAK2
year: 1985
route1: W Face-S Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Pierre Demolombe
sponsor: French Expedition to Makalu II 1985
bcdate: 1985-10-16
smtdate: 1985-11-02
termdate: 1985-11-08
termnote: Abandoned at 7450m due to disappearance of summit party
campsites: LowBC(16/10,4800m),ABC(25/10,5400m),C1(28/10,5800m),C2(29/10,6250m),C3(31/10,6700m),xxx(7400m+)
accidents: Demolombe and Margaine disappeared (bodies found later by Messner and Kammerlander early 1986)
agency: Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
routememo:
  BC  near Barun Pokhari
  ABC at west side Chago Glacier
  C3  under Makalu La
  C4  possibly made by Demolombe and Margaine at Makalu La after others left them.

  1st summit bid on 1st Nov by four members and two reached Makalu La, other two 100m lower. Turned back because late in the afternoon snow bad quality and 180 km wind and route now 50-55 degrees steep. All four returned to C3 and tent broken by wind icefall during night. 

  2nd Nov two members again tried for top while other three to ABC (two climbers never seen again). Other members spent 2 days at ABC, and 2 days at low BC, then 8th Nov to BC and left BC on 9th Nov leaving cooks and porters but no French members. Demolombe and Margaine "very determined" to reach summit, may have made several attempts; left BC to meet four trekking members at Lukla.

  Jeanvoine and Moutel came to KTM 15 Nov by helicopter, Baillet comes today by scheduled flight from Tumlingtar; Germain ex-Tumlingtar on 18 or 19 Nov. Trekkers have not returned to France.

  Moutel and Jeanvoine wait at least several days in Kathmandu for others return and flights to France; may move from Tushita to another hotel if decide to wait very long.


  Ashok Basnet, Great Himalayan Adventures Trekking - 26 Nov 85

  Two members have a little frostbite in toes: Dominique and Christian Baillet. Came by helicopter which attempted search for missing men but helicopter could not go above 7000m; saw nothing. 

  No more searches, no more hope for 2 missing men.
  Dr. Moutel and frostbitten men have gone home.
  BC staff have now returned to KTM as have other 4 climbers.


  Messner - 13 Feb 86

  Messner and Kammerlander found two bodies, one near the Makalu La and the other below it, during their own attempt on Makalu earlier this month. The one near the col was lying down but without backpack, down parka or gloves; one body remains where found, the other put into a crevasse.

  Messner believes they are the two men missing on Makalu II in 1985 autumn French team.


  Reinhold Messner - 14 Feb 86

  I have a feeling they did reach summit before they died. it looked as though Demolambe died of exhaustion and freezing near Makalu La, the other man tried to make it down alone and failed.

  Messner now knows the body near the col is Demolambe after having a telephone conversation with someone close to him and having described his clothing, etc.


expid: THAM85302
peakid: THAM
year: 1985
route1: W Ridge from W Peak
route2: NW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Marc Batard
sponsor: French Thamserku Expedition 1985
ascent2: 5th
approach: Monjo
bcdate: 1985-10-11
smtdate: 1985-10-30
smttime: 1200
termdate: 1985-10-31
othersmts: W Peak Pt 6346m
campsites: BC(11/10,4200m),C1(14/10,5600m),C2(25/10,6100m),Biv(29/10,6250m),Smt(30/10)
accidents: None
routememo:
  BC  at 6 hours porters trek beyond Monjo, west-southwst of mountain
  C1  at West Ridge to point 6346m 
  C2  on this very long West Ridge
  Biv on ridge.

  Batard, Lhakpa and Pemba to Pt 6346m on 26th Oct and returned to C2. Before that had long period of constant heavy snowfall. 27th Oct 2 members tried to reach the peak but stopped between Pt 6346m and main because too difficult ridge (very sharp snow ridge). 

  29th Oct 2 members up from BC to NW Ridge of main peak direct. Bivouac at 6250m on NW Ridge halfway to Pt 6346m and on 30th Oct at 5 am left bivouac and reached main summit at 12 pm and returned to biv that night, to BC 31 Oct.

  No more summit attempts because others tired.


expid: GANG85302
peakid: GANG
year: 1985
route1: E Spur-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Scott Woolums, Sandy Allan
sponsor: Gangapurna NE Expedition 1985
countries: Canada, Switzerland, USA
approach: Marshyangdi->Manang
bcdate: 1985-10-05
smtdate: 1985-10-28
termdate: 1985-10-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to bad weather (snow followed by wind)
campsites: BC(05/10,4800m),ABC(25/10,5200m),C1(26/10,5700m),C2(28/10,6600m),xxx(28/10,6600m)
achievment: New approach to North Ridge
routememo:
  BC  on glacier, northeast of mountain
  ABC at East Spur
  C1  on subsidiary ridge
  C2  near North Ridge.

  5-25 Oct sitting in BC or trying to break trail and stashing caches of gear (one of which was lost). Night of 28th tent blew apart and destroyed by fierce winds. 7:00 am 29th descended, found ABC tent also ruined. Spirig camped between ABC and BC at one of caches while Allan and Teare went to BC. Now winds very strong. No real technical difficulties. Never tried N Face as planned because of avalanching.

  Woolums very ill and never reached BC, left expedition 3rd or 4th Oct. Teare developing altitude sickness at C2.

accidents:
  Woolums very ill and never reached BC, left expedition 3rd or 4th Oct; Teare developing altitude sickness at C2


expid: ANN185301
peakid: ANN1
year: 1985
route1: N Face (Dutch Rib)
nation: Japan
leaders: Jun Yasumura
sponsor: Ganyuhkai 1985 Annapurna I Expedition
approach: Kali Gandaki->Lete->Thulobugin Pass
bcdate: 1985-09-01
smtdate: 1985-10-03
termdate: 1985-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(01/09,4300m),C1(05/09,4900m),C2A(09/09,5600m),C2B(20/09,5700m),xxx(03/10,6000m)
accidents: None
routememo:
  BC  at usual site
  C2B at below Dutch rib
  High point at top of rib.

  Bad weather began 10 Sept when all down in BC. Heavy snowfall began then. Started up again 19 Sept and made new C2 29 Sept to avoid avalanches danger. Then concentrated on making route up Dutch Rib and 3 Oct reached its top. Then again heavy snowfall brought avalanching which carried away equipment beside rib above C2B. 5-13 Oct very bad snowfall but all down in BC where little food: food in C1 but cannot go up to it so all team leave BC for Lete 14 Oct. In Lete to 19 Oct and back to BC on 20 Oct only to bring down equipment. Cleared C1, which in 2m deep snow, on 21 and 22 Oct and salvaged same items (tents broken).


expid: ANNS85302
peakid: ANNS
year: 1985
route1: E Face
nation: W Germany
leaders: Walter Fichter
sponsor: German Annapurna S Expedition 1985
approach: Ghandruk->Modi Khola
bcdate: 1985-09-25
smtdate: 1985-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to fatal avalanche
othersmts: 5500m peak on SW Ridge
campsites: BC(25/09,3800m),BC2(16/10,4200m),Biv1(20/10,4850m),Biv2(21/10,5400m),xxx(22/10,6500m)
achievment: 1 German attempt
routememo:
  BC at 3800m at Khyumnu Khola at base of glacier south of Annapurna South
  2nd BC at 4200m at Greek's BC in Annapurna Sanctuary
  1st biv at Greek's C1
  2nd biv at Greek's C2.

  Want to climb as high as possible, preferably no fixed camps & little fixed rope. Technical problems: difficult to get to ridge if very sharp. Ridge will be difficult and steep ice section is at about 6900m. 3 members at BC did no climbing.

  Team scouted Central Spur of S Face, but too avalanche prone. Then attempted Greek route. Fatal avalanche terminated effort.

  Had three weeks of bad weather after arrival at 1st BC except 2-1/2 days of days of sun. Went to peak of about 5500m to see S Face to look for route on 4 Oct (the 1st peak of SW Ridge) and decided to try central spur of S Face but weather closed in for 1-2 weeks and then had 2 weeks time left. S Face seemed too dangerous from avalanching and decided to go into Annapurna Sanctuary and climb from there, taking very little gear with them. On 20 Oct in alpine-style climb Fichter, Kuerschner, Storz and Wohlschlager went to Greeks C1, 21 Oct to Greeks C2 and 22 Oct to Greeks C3 (climbed mostly at night) and planned to go top 23 Oct. Only Wohlschlager went above C3 on 22nd and was killed by avalanche which all 4 Germans were caught in. Slept night of 22/23 Oct at BC because all gear lost in avalanche.

  Uwe Bauer stomach trouble: Wagenhals carried by slab avalanche started by him or by Bountolas of Greek team and buried by the avalanche; body found but probably swept away by more avalanching.

accidents:
  Bauer got stomach trouble; Wagenhals got bronchitis; Wohlschlager killed by slab avalanche (body found, but swept away by more avalanching)


expid: KGUR85301
peakid: KGUR
year: 1985
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Norbert Raich
sponsor: Hochbergschule Expedition to Kang Guru
countries: W Germany
approach: Marshyangdi->Chame
bcdate: 1985-10-17
smtdate: 1985-10-22
termdate: 1985-10-26
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to fatal accident
campsites: BC(17/10,3600m),C1(20/10,5000m),C2(22/10,5600m),xxx(22/10,6000m)
routememo:
  BC near ruins of Meta village
  C1 below ridge
  C2 on flat part on ridge
  High point on SW Ridge.

  17-19th bad weather. On 20th made a low C1. On 21st fixed ropes trying to reach C2 and on 22nd again made low C2 with 3 tents after going to 6000m. 23rd 6:00 am accident. Every one devoted to bringing Arenz down and then no heart to climb again. Cleared camps on 25th Oct.

  Bad weather = rainfall up to 4900m and above snowfall depositing very slowly snow preventing putting camps as high as wished. Too  warm; snow didn't freeze properly.

accidents:
  Oct 23 Arenz fell 600m on snow slope, leader reached him at 7:00 am still alive but back of head injured, got him to BC at 8:00 pm still alive but died next day after (never regained consciousness)


expid: AMAD85301
peakid: AMAD
year: 1985
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Renato Moro
sponsor: International Ama Dablam Expedition 1985
ascent1: 39th,41st-43rd
countries: Belgium, Canada, Denmark, France, Switzerland
approach: Pangboche->Nare Drangka
bcdate: 1985-10-06
smtdate: 1985-10-30
termdate: 1985-11-04
campsites: BC(06/10,4550m),C1A(10/10,5750m),C1B(12/10,6000m),Smt(30/10,02-03/11)
accidents: None except Levegue extremely sunburned face and skin came off 'like a smoke'
achievment: 1st Canadian ascent by Marshall
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC at usual site, near US BC on SE Ridge
  C1 at beginning of South Ridge
  C2 at top of Yellow Tower.

  All down to BC and Namche on 14 Oct to 19 Oct because of snow storms. 21st Oct back to BC. C1 and C2 tents destroyed and had to take 3 days to restore camps. 25 Oct fixed rope to 6300m (at usual C3 site but no C3 made by this expedition). 26th Oct tried for top and reached 6700m. 27th Oct to BC because of strong wind and cold (6700m reached by Marshall and De Camp). Moro and others left BC 28 Oct but 9 others still hoping for summit.

  On 4 Nov Marshall alone from Pangboche to C2 on 3rd and to top on 4th (he ran up to C2) - "strong man" - 1 Canadian.


expid: BARU85302
peakid: BARU
year: 1985
nation: France
leaders: Claude Jaccoux
sponsor: Jaccoux-Vincent Expedition to Baruntse
countries: Belgium
approach: Namche->Dingboche
termdate: 1985-11-02
termnote: Never reached BC due to deep snow on approach to Baruntse
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak and Parchamo
accidents: None
routememo:
  Never reached BC. Lost 5 days in KTM waiting for flight, walked to Namche ex-Jiri, thus lost 11 days. Vincent tried to climb North Face of Amphu Laptsa with Sherpas but too deep snow, impossible to climb with porters. Went to Island Peak and succeeded there, climbed Kalapattar, success on Parchamo. Took Vincent's party 2 days to do 5 hours climb from Sukund at base of the pass to BC of the pass - too dangerous snow conditions.

  Sharp ridge last 100m should be only techinical problem, but may have problem if snow 2m deep, danger of avalanching. Had permission but never reached base camp.


expid: MANA85303
peakid: MANA
year: 1985
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Yoshimichi Furuhata
sponsor: Japanese-Spanish (Basque) Joint Manaslu Expedition 1985
approach: Buri Gandaki->Samagaon
bcdate: 1985-09-22
smtdate: 1985-10-22
termdate: 1985-10-27
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due C2 destroyed by avalanche
campsites: BC(22/09,4500m),C1(30/09,5750m),C2(21/10,6400m),xxx(22-23/10,7200m)
accidents: Sherpa killed in avalanche
routememo:
  BC near Spaniard's C1
  C1 on plateau of snow near Naike Col before face
  C2 on snow face (NE Face)
  High point at NE Face (C3 site).

  3 weeks to make C2 after C1 because "everyday snowing." 24th Oct very bad wind, so no successful carry to C3 site this day. 25th Oct rest day, good weather; avalanche struck C2 5:40 pm and 7 who survived had to bivouac. Early am 26th Oct, rescuers up from C1 and all members went down to C1 and BC, next day all at BC. Had planned summit attack for 28th Oct, but avalanche destroyed supplies and some victims battered, so climb finished and no one went again to C3 site. Some skiing up and down mountain side but "many places cannot ski."

  Oct 25 avalanche hit C2 and carried 1 member into crevasse, 4 Japanese and 3 Sherpas also hit (Japanese tent slipped 100m and they only buried; Sherpas tent also slipped and Nima Norbu in sleeping bag could not get out and was killed).


expid: KIRA85301
peakid: KIRA
year: 1985
route1: S Ridge from Nepal Pk
nation: UK
leaders: Mike Kefford
sponsor: Joint A.M.A.-Royal Nepal Army Kirat Chuli Expedition
countries: Nepal
approach: Ghunsa
bcdate: 1985-09-25
smtdate: 1985-10-15
termdate: 1985-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6735m on Nepal Peak due to strong wind, heavy snowfall
othersmts: Attempted Nepal Peak (NEPA-853-01)
campsites: BC(25/09,5400m),C1(28/09,5900m),C2(14/10,6400m),xxx(15/10,6735m-Nepal Peak)
accidents: One Nepali, Yagya Bahadur, got sick on day 2 of walk-in and never reached BC
routememo:
  BC at 5400m edge of glacier north of Cross Peak
  C2 at 6400m in crevasse under big seracs under S Ridge of Nepal Peak
  Highpoint at 6735m at South Ridge of Nepal Peak.

  Expedition attempted to reach Kirat Chuli (Tent Peak) via Nepal Peak along the very long South Ridge of Nepal Peak and thence Kirat Chuli's low long South Ridge. The Nepal Peak ridge was a steep slope with very big cornices; its problems and many days of snowfall and snow slides, one of which took away their route, forced a halt after having reached a high point of 6735m on the ridge before Nepal Peak's summit. Team never actually set foot on Kirat Chuli.

  Snow above C1 was thigh-deep, unconsolidated powder snow on a 60-degree head wall. Then got onto South Ridge of Nepal Peak first on Nepalese side, then on Sikkimese side, 45-degree slope with very big cornices. First storm started 7 Oct by which time they had put in most of route to C2 and couldn't move till 13 Oct. 1st attempt to C2 on 9th but stopped by wind and thick spendrift. Again on 11th tried and retreated. More bad weather 12th, but 14th to C2 and 15th on up ridge, which again was vertical sugar, exposed to very cold wind for their ascent, fixing rope as they want. Had to climb down from high point of 22,100 ft but long distance from summit. Expected go to summit next day. 16th snowing heavily and strong wind. 17th tents destroyed and had to move down to BC. On 18th BC evacuated and down to Pangpema and those in C2 to abandoned C1 bringing own tents and digging under 3 ft of snow to find fixed ropes. 150m of snow slab went down but ropes fixed to ice underneath. Another slide took out route and covered one man. Still snowing, C2 doubtless destroyed, route gone and had little time left. 32 days on mountain, 17 actually climbing.

  Successfully completed water supply project and plant collection plus good experience. 

  North ridge of Kiratchuli very difficult climb for strong climbers.


  British Kirat Chuli:

  Expedition's attempts to climb Kirat Chuli and Nepal Peak now abandoned. Expedition defeated by extremely bad weather, deep snow and avalanche conditions high on mountain.

  Williams/Kefford/Spencer reached 22,100 ft on South Ridge of Nepal Peak on 15 Oct before withdrawing and cold.

  16th Oct plan to occupy C3 below Nepal Peak abandoned due combined bad weather and thick snow.

  16-17th high winds and deep snow destroyed 3 tents and C1 (19,200 ft) and forced abandonment.


  Letter from Royal Force Mountaineering Association - Jan 1986

  AMA Expedition to Nepal 1985 by Chris Cordery. Chris Cordery represented RAFMA on last year's AMA expedition to Nepal. The expedition lasted for nearly 3 months and amongst its several items it included attempts on Nepal Peak and Kirat Chuli. These 2 mountains are satellites of Kangchenjunga and are linked by a mile long, knife-edged ridge. They had only been climbed once before, from the Sikkim side. The walk-in took 3 weeks before we were ready to mount our assaults on the mountain. Ideas of climbing a new route via the North Col were quickly quashed when a recce showed the vast distance and desperately difficult glacier to be beyond the ability of our team. We settled for the South Col route which had previously been climbed in 1939. The weather remained fine throughout the last 2 weeks of September and we made good progress. We established ABC on the glacier beneath Nepal Peak and we put C1, at 19,500 ft, in a snow basin just below a ridge leading to the summit. The route to C2 proved to be difficult, long and quite prone to avalanches, but after sitting out several days of bad weather we established 6 climbers at 21,500 ft. The news of 5 Indians dying on Everest only 50 miles away did nothing positive for our morale but our lead climbers continued to press on. They got to within 600 ft of the top of Nepal Peak before being driven back to C2 by deep snow and high winds. The next days consisted of a blizzard and winds of 100 mph which demolished several tents or buried them in snow. The route from C2 to C1 had become seriously avalanche-prone and retreats were made in desperate conditions to the relative safety of our 2 BCs. The expedition was very lucky indeed to get everyone back alive. Avalanches had ripped out our fixed ropes and there was not enough time to rebuild our route so it was decided to end our expedition. We were very disappointed but we were all still alive. On our return to KTM we heard that the Himalayas were having their worst post-monsoon weather for 18 years and that a vast majority of mountaineering expeditions had been abandoned - one expedition did not even get to its base camp before being defeated by deep snow.


expid: MAK285301
peakid: MAK2
year: 1985
route1: W Face-S Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Ronald Naar
sponsor: Kangchungtse Summit Expedition
ascent1: 13th,14th
approach: Shipton Pass
bcdate: 1985-09-23
smtdate: 1985-10-11
smttime: 1100
termdate: 1985-10-14
campsites: BC(23/09,5400m),C1(25/09,5800m),C2(28/09,6600m),C3(02/10,7400m),Smt(11,13/10)
achievment: 1st Dutch ascent
routememo:
  BC at 5400m on ridge west side of south end of Chago Glacier
  C1 at 5800m middle moraine of Chago Glacier
  C3 at 7400m at Makalu La.

  All camps at same sites at Italian early Oct in BC to rest for several days and then up. 9th Oct so bad weather no progress possible and all in C1 and C2. 10th Oct first party went to C3 in heavy snowstorm. 11 Oct good weather till 9:15 am, then snow fall again but went on to top and reached it 11:00 am. 13th Oct clear, beautiful day and all camps cleared and all in BC that evening. 14th Oct left BC and reached KTM 22nd Oct. Between C2 and C3 always deep snow but not difficult route.

  Two members (Frank Merjenberg and Walter Roos) left expedition on the return trek and attempted to cross over into Khumbu via Sherpani Col, West Col and Amphu Laptsa. An unusually severe storm on Oct 16 trapped them just below Sherpani Col. They suffocated to death when their tents collapsed under the weight of 3 meters of new snow.

  2 members failed to return from BC to KTM; it is assumed they perished in the deep snow of West Col-Sherpani Col region.

  Walter Roos and Frank Merjenberg:

  17-19 Oct trekking via Sherpani Col and West Col. Took with them no Sherpas, 3 days food only. Never turned up and now must presumed lost. Were due in KTM 4 weeks ago.


  Hermann Tollemaar - 18 Nov 1985

  All hope of finding them has been abandoned.


  Naar - 6 May 1986

  2 missing climbers were found recently dead in their tent on Sherpani Col. Probably died of suffocation under heavy snowfall.

  Their bodies were found by a trekking party lead by Richard Salisbury in the following May 1986. The bodies were buried in a collapsed tent on the Barun side of Sherpani Col at about 5500m.

accidents:
  2 members failed to return from BC to Kathmandu (they perished in major snowstorm below Sherpani Col; bodies found by trekking group May 1986)


expid: CHOY85301
peakid: CHOY
year: 1985
route1: W Ridge-W Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Ken Kanazawa
sponsor: Kathmandu Club Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 16th
bcdate: 1985-09-21
smtdate: 1985-10-03
smttime: 1350
termdate: 1985-10-14
campsites: BC(21/09,5200m),C1(25/09,5650m),C2(29/09,6400m),C3(03/10,7200m),Smt(03/10)
accidents: Little frostbites only
achievment: 1st Japanese ascent of last 8000er
routememo:
  BC at 5200m at Dza camp
  C1 same as Spanish autumn 1984 C1
  C2 near point 6446m
  C3 on West Face (center of face below).

  Route not so difficult, but very long distances between BC to C1 and C1 to C2. Had problem on big summit snow plateau where snow had light crust on top of it: took 1-1/2 hours on plateau itself to reach summit (11 hours from C3 to top).


expid: GAUR85301
peakid: GAUR
year: 1985
route1: SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Park Jung-Soo
sponsor: Korean Gaurishankar Expedition 1985
bcdate: 1985-10-04
smtdate: 1985-10-31
termdate: 1985-11-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to Lee's sickness, all very exhausted
campsites: BC(04/10,4600m),C1(12/10,5100m),C2(20/10,5300m),C3(27/10,5600m),C4(30/10,6070m),xxx(31/10,6200m)
accidents: Only Lee illness on Oct 31
achievment: 1st Korean attempt
routememo:
  BC on border northwest of point 5415m on Schneider map.

  Route not difficult but more themselves out carrying loads. Snowstorms: 3 days snow, 1 day not. Delayed climb from BC to C1 and from C1 to C2.


expid: LANG85301
peakid: LANG
year: 1985
route1: NE Buttress-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Daniel Newell
sponsor: Langtang Lirung N Face Expedition
countries: UK
approach: Timure
bcdate: 1985-10-05
smtdate: 1985-10-16
termdate: 1985-10-18
termnote: Abandoned at 5030m due to the death of climbing members
campsites: BC(05/10,3775m),ABC(16/10,5030m),xxx(16/10,5030m)
accidents: Fatal accident of two members and 1 Sherpa
routememo:
  BC  at 2 km down from North Face (same as in 1984)
  ABC on a buttress of NE Ridge in a gully
  High point at ABC.

  Probably the 3 climbers got no higher than 5030m since weather again very bad on 16th Oct with heavy snowfall and occasional strong wind gusts. Urkien Sherpa met Newell, Spake and Gyalzen Sherpa on 15th below ABC site. Newell sent back with him a note to Leung saying they expected to reach ABC site in 1 or 2 days. All were well. They made bivouacs between BC and ABC as they moved up, probably reached ABC on 16th Oct and could go no higher because of snow fall.

  Spake was supposed to be load and message carrier only.

  Atkinson left team well before caravan reached BC; claimed his girl friend's bad knee prevented her from trekking.


  Report of Mary E. Leung - 30 Oct 85

  Oct 18 the three members of Langtang Lirung climbing party (Newell, Spake and Gyalzen) decided to come back to BC due to bad weather. They had been on the mountain since Oct 13. On 16 the weather again turned bad, continuing until Oct 20.

  The morning they decided to come down it was also raining. The route from which they were descending was one we had not observed them climbing on before.

  The members at BC including cook, kitchen boy, mailrunner, porter and sirdar Urkien Norbu saw three objects carried down by an avalanche. At the time of the avalanche they were at an altitude of approx 16,000 ft. They fell to an altitude of about 12,385 ft.

  Immediately after the avalanche we went to the site. The sirdar and a few others saw a jacket sleeve, most probably of Elliot or Gyalzen, an ice axe and one mattress pad. We weren't able to approach them to offer assistance because of constant avalanching. After about 45 minutes we left the site to go back to BC. The rest of that day we were unable to go back because of constant eminent avalanching due to the falling rain and snow. The following day Oct 19, several BC members tried to go back to the site twice, but were unable to do anything because of the danger of more avalanching and a lack of digging implements. Snow and fog were quite heavy that day.

  Oct 20 was a sunny clear day. We finished same digging tools out of wood and in the afternoon the BC members tried to dig where they had seen the items before but were unsuccessful. The snow was too deep after two days and nights of snowfall and avalanching.

  On Oct 21 we departed BC to return to KTM. We were unable to recover any bodies or equipmment on the mountain since none of the BC members were equipped for high altitude climbing. Nor were we able to determine if they were abandoning the expedition or merely coming down to BC to wait for good weather.


expid: MANA85302
peakid: MANA
year: 1985
route1: E Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Iwao Thushima
sponsor: Manaslu Expedition Aomori Japan 1985
approach: Marshyangdi->Dudh Khola->Budhi Gandaki
bcdate: 1985-09-15
smtdate: 1985-10-09
termdate: 1985-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 6250m due to daily snowfall
campsites: BC(15/09,4400m),C1(23/09,5350m),C2(27/09,5700m),C3(04/10,6200m),xxx(09/10,6250m)
routememo:
  BC southwest from Samagaon 3 km away (same as Austrian 1985 spring)
  C1 on East Ridge
  C2 on East Ridge
  C3 on East Ridge.

  After 4th Oct many days much snow. C3 covered by 2 meters snow. 8th Oct when climbers returned there to try going to C4 site. Took them 4 days including 1 bivouac to descend to BC. Then route making pair set off from BC on 16th Oct for 20-21 Oct summit bid by another pair. They reached C1 on 16th but snowfall 17-20 Oct and took 4 hours to excavate C2 on 17th Oct. Leader descended on 19th Oct. Impossible to reach summit and called route making party down to BC where they arrived 20th Oct. Left BC 22nd Oct. 

  "Want to try again next spring."

accidents:
  Sept 26 one Sherpa knee injured in snowslide in steep couloir halfway from BC to C1 (sent to Kathmandu hospital)


expid: DHA285301
peakid: DHA2
year: 1985
route1: E Ridge from Snow Peak
nation: Japan
leaders: Schuichi Torii
sponsor: Miyazaki University Dhaulagiri II Expedition 1985
approach: Myagdi Khola
bcdate: 1985-09-24
smtdate: 1985-10-21
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to strong wind, snow, lack of food
campsites: BC(24/09,4700m),C1(29/09,5400m),C2(07/10,6100m),C3(18/10,6600m),xxx(21/10,7200m)
accidents: None
routememo:
  BC at Tsaurabong Glacier
  C1 at upper part of Glacier
  C2 on South Ridge of Snow Peak
  C3 on East Ridge of Dhaulagiri II.

  If weather fine, climb only "little difficult" but with heavy constant snowfall climb was difficult and dangerous. Daily avalanches near route, but luckily no one hit ("we very lucky").


expid: LSIS85301
peakid: LSIS
year: 1985
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kosuke Shiota
sponsor: Nagasaki Worker's Alpine Fed Expedition 1985 to Langshisa Ri
approach: Trisuli River->Langtang Khola
bcdate: 1985-09-27
smtdate: 1985-10-19
termdate: 1985-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to snow conditions, supply situation
campsites: BC(27/09,4400m),C1(01/10,5400m),C2(03/10,5680m),C3(16/10,6040m),xxx(19/10,6100m)
routememo:
  BC at SSW of Main peak
  C1 on ridge southeast of West Peak
  C2 at snow field
  C3 on SW Ridge
  High point at 6100m on SW Ridge.

  After C2 established, tried to reach SW Ridge but too much of snowfall and retreated from this route which was one actually used on 16th Oct. Reached ridge on 15th at 5940m, but from there up ridge is knifed and "no walking" so next day reached ridge higher up and there put C3. 16th Oct to 18th Oct, much new snowfall and "no moving" (stayed in C3). 19th Oct good weather but snow "bad" and food and fuel finished and time limit (Oct 20). 19th Oct went up ridge towards top "snow sliding" so attempt abandoned. Also sirdar injured. 3rd to 16th Oct also much snowfall during route making period burying new fixed ropes. Left BC 22 Oct.

accidents:
  Sirdar Kirki injured knee Oct 19 in snow slide and could no longer climb (2 members helped him down, now OK); no other casualties


expid: DORJ85301
peakid: DORJ
year: 1985
route1: W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yoshihisa Nakano
sponsor: Nepal-Zoki Joint Expedition to Dorje Lhakpa
ascent1: 4th,5th
approach: Dunche->Langtang Village
bcdate: 1985-09-11
smtdate: 1985-10-03
smttime: 1350
termdate: 1985-10-04
campsites: BC(11/09,4730m),C1(14,21/09,5100m),C2(26/09,5700m),C3(02/10,6270m),Smt(03-04/10)
accidents: One Japanese member slight frostbite; one Nepali member chronic illness of several months
routememo:
  BC at Langshisa Glacier
  C1 at col between Dorje Lhakpa and Buddha Peak
  C2 on West Ridge
  C3 on West Ridge.

  C1 1st occupied 14 Sept but next day 2 meters snow broke tents and 15 Sept evacuated camp; had to build new C1 and this done on 21 Sept when next occupied. Snow and blue ice all the way way, no rock at all, ice 60-70 degrees from C3 upwards.

  Leader did not go above C3 because he had to go to village with sick Nepali members and was not fully acclimatized in early Oct.


expid: HIMW85301
peakid: HIMW
year: 1985
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Ronald Palmer
sponsor: Northern New Mexico 1985 Himalchuli W Expedition
approach: Dordi Khola
bcdate: 1985-10-04
smtdate: 1985-10-07
termdate: 1985-11-01
termnote: Abandoned at 4875m due to bad weather and time limitations
campsites: BC(04/10,3660m),C1(4575m),xxx(07/10,4875m)
accidents: Davidson and Sarracino bad bronchitis
routememo:
  BC at Japanese BC of 1981
  C1 at shoulder below icefall coming off SW Ridge.

  7 Oct 4 sets off from C1 to base of rock climb, avoiding danger of icefall but involving 1500 ft of rock climbing. Visability became zero in clouds and became disoriented. At 16,000 ft cached equipment and returned to C1. That night snowing and spent next 5 nights at C1 hoping for better weather. Now would need 14 days to climb mountain, but had 9 days time left. Took 3 days to evacuate C1 and no one could reach cache. Was another week of bad weather (deep snow). Had gambled weather would permit climb but it didn't; avalanches off mountain every 15 minutes.


expid: GAN485301
peakid: GAN4
year: 1985
route1: S Face-E Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Karol Sopicki
sponsor: Polish Ganesh IV Expedition
approach: Trisuli River->Ankhu Khola->Neberu village
bcdate: 1985-10-22
termdate: 1985-11-10
termnote: Climbers disappeared
campsites: BC(22/10,4200m),ABC(24/10,4800m),C1(28/10,5400m),C2(01/11,6300m),Biv?(6700m),xxx
accidents: Camps and climbers swept away by avalanche; helicopter search on Nov 20 saw no trace
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at glacier north of Hindung, south of Ganesh IV
  ABC 
  C1  before South Face
  C2  on South Face (1 Nov had pitched tent at 6100m and next day moved it higher)
  Biv on South Face.

  3 climbers returned to BC 2 Nov after having pitched C1 at 6300m. They said after night avalanches, snow very deep and did not know difficulties in route above C2, but planned to climb steep section above C2 to col just east of summit and thence, alond East Ridge to top. Route above C1 was difficult because of big seracs and always steep; had fixed 2 ropes in this section between C1 and C2 and when they descended on 2 Nov, one rope had been taken away by avalanche. 5th noon, 3 climbers started up again and could be seen very short time because of fog. They planned to go to ABC, 6 Nov to C1, 7th Nov to C2 and 8th Nov to top, perhaps with bivouac in descent - could not be seen again.

  10 Nov saw a trace of them and could see every day there after until left BC 19 Nov. 2 Sherpas from KTM went up to search reached C2 site on 23 Nov, but found no camps ABC to C2. Found a tent from C1 at 6700m. Searchers were nearly hit by avalanche and think camps and climbers taken by avalanche. Helicopter search of 20 Nov saw no traces.

  Did not follow originally planned because more difficult, very steep, required more rope to be fixed than they had with them.


  Ang Tshering (Asian Tkg) - 28 Nov 85

  2 Sherpas climbed to 6700m on 21 and 22nd Nov, found tent, gas stove and food but no bodies.

  Dr Bancer, LO and Sherpas arrived KTM this morning by taxi from Trisuli; no trace of 3 climbers.


  Ang Tshering (Asian Tkg) - 22 Nov 85

  Sirdar went up to ABC site but no tent there to be seen. Probably buried under snow. Mountain not visable from BC until 10 Nov because of clouds. On 10 Nov no tents visable at any campsites.

  20 Nov helicopter search by LO and a Sherpa: took 4 turns around mountain but saw no sign of tents, people, anything. BC has been evacuated. 


  Asian Tkg - 17 Nov 85

  Members should have returned to BC 11 Nov. LO left BC 14 Nov to report they had not returned. 3 strong Sherpas leave KTM early tomorrow for search and perhaps helicopter will go later if Polish embassy say so. Doctor still at BC with sirdar.


