# exped

expid: EVER23149
peakid: EVER
year: 2023
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Tsering Samdrup
sponsor: Holy Mountain Adventure Everest Expedition 2023
smtdate: 2023-05-22
smttime: 1105
campsites: Smt(21/05)
agency: Holy Mountain Adventure
routememo:
  Chinese media report:

  On May 23, the members of the 2023 "Peak Mission" Everest scientific expedition successfully climbed to the summit of Mount Everest.

  At 10:58 on the 23rd, four summit scientific expedition members arrived at the automatic weather station at an altitude of 8830 meters.

  According to earlier news from CCTV, at around 3 am on May 23, the members of the scientific expedition to the summit of Mount Everest set off from the assault camp and advanced towards Mount Everest. They will collect snow and ice on the "Top of the Earth" and perform the task of upgrading the technology of the highest automatic weather station.

  One day before reaching the summit, a professional road construction team successfully reached the summit. According to the "Tibet Holy Mountain Mountaineering Expedition" public account, at 11:05 on May 22, the 2023 Yala Xiangbo Everest road construction team successfully reached the summit and stayed at the summit for 55 minutes, laying a solid foundation for this year's 13 summit members; On May 21, the road construction team completed the second step at an altitude of 8650 meters - which is also a more difficult and dangerous section of Mount Everest.


expid: GIMM39201
peakid: GIMM
year: 1939
route1: E Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Ernst Grob
countries: Germany
approach: Sikkim->Zemu Glacier
bcdate: 1939-06-08
smtdate: 1939-06-12
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to insurpassible ice wall
campsites: BC(08/06),xxx(12/06,6300m)
primid: NEPA39101
othersmts:
  Climbed Kirat Chuli (KIRA-391-01), Nepal Peak (NEPA-391-01) and Langpo South (LNPS-392-01); attempted Pyramid Peak (PYRM-392-01)


expid: GOLD23101
peakid: GOLD
year: 2023
route1: N Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Bok Jin-Young
sponsor: 2023 Busan Pangri Goldumba Expedition 2023
ascent1: 1st
bcdate: 2023-03-14
smtdate: 2023-04-11
smttime: 1244
termdate: 2023-04-14
campsites: BC(14/03,4700m),ABC1(4900m),ABC2(5000m),C1(27/03,5500m),C2(28/03,5800m),C3((10/04,6350m),Smt(11/04)
agency: 8K Expeditions
routememo:
  Approach: Bus to Syabrubesi, trekking via Kyanjin to BC.

  BC   14/03  4700m (nNext to Langtang Glacier)
  ABC1        4900m on glacier
  ABC2        5000m on glacier
  C1   27/03  5500m
  C2   28/03  5800m
  C3   10/04  6350m
  Smt  11/04  by Park Jung-Yong, Jeong Ji-Hun  Son Ho-Sung

  Very long and dangerous approach along Langtang Glacier. 

  Summit on 11/04 at 12:44 pm. Started from C3 at 7:00 am. Waited for sunrise because of cold. On the summit for 20 minutes. Good weather on the top, clear views. Not windy, quite warm on the summit. After summit down to C2. At C2 at 6:30 pm.  Next day to ABC2 (5000m). On 13/04 back to BC.

  5 members flew out by heli from Kyanjin Gompa on 15/04. Only Park So-Jung walked to Syabrubesi, from there by jeep to KTM. Slight frostbite on toes and fingers by 5 members, but no one hospitalized.

  Kim Dae-Il was tired and did not ascend from C3.

  Park So-Jung stayed in BC because of dangerous approach to mountain.

  Bok Jin-Young was expedition leader and managed ascent from C1. Didn’t intend to summit.

  Crux: Dangerous serac zones at 5400m and 6500m. Seracs were threatening during sunny and warm days. From 5900m to 6400m some difficult pitches; mixed terrain, snow and ice. At times vertical ice wall.

  Members:
    Kim Dae-Il (HP C3)
    Park So-Jung (HP BC)
    Bok Jin-Young (HP C1)
    Son Ho-Sung (S)
    Park Jung-Yong Park (S)
    Jeong Ji-Hun (S)


expid: HIML23103
peakid: HIML
year: 2023
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Rabindra Dulal
sponsor: Himlung Himal Mountaineering Reesearch Exp BMS-NMA-2023
smtdate: 2023-05-27
smttime: 1000
campsites: Smt(27/05)
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  From Peak Promotion FB:

  Great News from Mt. Himlung (7126m)

  8 students from Nepal Mountain Academy, 3 instructors & 3 guides have summited Himlung today morning around 10:00, 27 May 2023

  Summiteers list;
  1. Rosanta Raj Khatri 
  2. Saroj Lamichhane 
  3. Nabin Upreti 
  4. Bidhan Bhandari 
  5. Aashish Khadka 
  6. Saugat Adhikari 
  7. Saroj Tamang 
  8. Kushal Ranabhat 
  9. Lama Babu Sherpa (Instructor/IFMGA)
  10. Tshiring Jangbu Sherpa (Instructor/IFMGA)
  11. Lhakpa Rangdu Sherpa (Instructor/IFMGA)
  12. Phurba Gyljang Sherpa (Climbing Guide)
  13. Ang Gelu Sherpa (Climbing Guide)
  14. Lakpa Tenji Sherpa (Climbing Guide)


expid: HONK23101
peakid: HONK
year: 2023
route1: NW Face (up), SW Ridge (down)
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Marek Holecek
sponsor: Czech Sura Peak Expedition
ascent1: 3rd
approach: Lukla->Namche->Gokyo->Amphu Laptsa->BC
bcdate: 2023-05-12
smtdate: 2023-05-23
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2023-05-24
campsites: BC(12/052,5300m),Biv1(19/05,5500m),Biv2(20/05,6200m),Biv3(21/05,6400m),Biv4(22/05,6600m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Green Horizon
routememo:
  Approach: Flight to Lukla, trekking via Namche Bazar, Gokyo, Amphu Lapcha Pass

  BC   12/05  5300m
  Biv1 19/05  5500m on the glacier underneath the West Face
  Biv2 20/05  6200m in a snow cave
  Biv3 21/05  6400m on blue ice at the start of difficult rock band
  Biv4 22/05  6600m in a snow cave on final headwall
  Smt  23/05  by Holecek and Bernat at 11 am.

  The two climbers started from last bivy at 9 am in the morning of 23/05. On the summit at 11 am. It was not too cold, not much wind, but very poor visibility, quite cloudy. Descent via SW Ridge. Tough snow conditions on descent. Sharp-edged ridge, no options for belays. Two times rappeled. Didn’t walk back to BC but to nearby teahouse at Seto Pokhari. Arrival at Seto Pokhari at 11 pm and spent the night there. On 24/05 to Khare; on 25/05 to Kote; on 26/05 to Lukla.

  Crux of climb: 150m of rock band at appr. 6500m. Very lose rock, treacherous terrain, took them a long time to negotiate this passage. Some parts vertical, some sections even overhanging. Lower part of face approximately 50-60° steep, higher part about 70-80° steep. Final headwall after rock passage 70-80°, sometimes climbing on blue ice.

  Both members with slight frostbite. No treatment in hospital, will heal in a short time.

  Overall classification: M6, 70°

  Alpine style ascent.

  Climbing route: West/Northwest Face
  Name of route:  Simply beautiful

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used

  Records: Probably first ascent of NW Face.


  Report from Marek Holecek (Translated from Czech to English by DeepL):

  "They're good up there" and they like us...

  For those who do not have the time or the desire to read the whole article below, I present only an informative technical statement. Here it is. 

  The ascent of the NW face of Sura Peak 6764m, was done alpine-style from May 19-23. The difficulty of the ascent is suggested to be M6, average slope gradient 70° (90° in places), ascent length 1500m and elevation gain 1300m. The first ascent was named Simply Beautiful, the climbers were Matej Bernát and Marek Holecek.

  And now... True Story

  The beginning of the story of Sura Peak started during an expedition in 2021. After all sorts of vicissitudes, she finally gave permission. Since then, the peppery Heaven's Trap route has been leading there, where one of my dreams came true after a hard struggle. It could also be said that at any given moment the eyes can only hold one beauty and one concentration. Not so, they are volatile and unfaithful. Already during the acclimatization itself, they were gazing hungrily at the wide surroundings, when the space for further acclimatization was slowly beginning to form.

  The image of a nameless pyramid rising steeply above the glacier has returned now and then as I've closed my eyelids for the past two years. In my mind's eye, I imagined where the line of passage to the summit might lead. There was nothing to be done. The idea went to light and I burdened it with the reality of the questions. It meant searching my archival photos, scouring the internet, magazines, sending out queries. Then chewing all the information and subjecting it to questions again. Who climbed there, when and where? 

  Is it possible to complete an idea that has all been sketched out and realized long ago without a single actual step? And what is the name of the spike anyway? Here it is...,Sura peak. "Dick" one, nearly 7,000th bastard. All right, I'm in.

  It's no wonder, then, that the return to the sandy beach that flanks the glacial lake at over 5000 metres didn't take long. It is also the site of Base Camp, with a wall of mountains rising above it. A fabulous corner of the Himalayas, eerie and desolate in one.

  However, before my footsteps again reached the place they already knew, there were more points to tick off on the list.

  I had a clear idea of where I wanted to climb, but there was still a question mark in the air as to with whom. Phone calls went through the ether, and I addressed my climbing partners. Whatever the reasons were, poppy or otherwise, after two months of searching, the partner column was still empty.

  It was necessary to change the search circle. With the mature pieces missing from the bottom of the pond, it was necessary to wade into shallower waters to spawn.

  And lo and behold, on the very first phone call, when a few formal turns were made, a young fish "Matej" was flicking in the netting.

  Needless to say, the selection was not random according to an alphabetical list, but according to the performance of potential adepts. It has always been so. At some point, the working automatic gets stuck and you have to try a different set of gears. Over the course of nearly fifty trips, I've teamed up with many buddies. Each with a different swing, a different focus, but always rewarding, engaging and great. 

  The beauty of youth is in the speed of decision, where energy and performance burst forth, with a minimum of bad experiences and without the weight of shackles to commitment...

  Okay Matej, we're leaving in May and we'll fine-tune the rest before then. Those are my last words before I hang up the phone.

  The days of Simply Beautiful

  Sure, I know I owe you those few pivotal days to complete the picture that led up to the climb up the NW face of Sura Peak. So here they are. 

  I originally wanted to describe the whole course of events in a strictly technical way, devoid of emotion and romance. And really, I want to keep it as low-key as possible. However, to reduce mountain movement and mountaineering to a mere athletic-gymnastic movement from valley to summit would be purely indulgent, even barbaric, to this philosophy of life. Mountaineering is not a classically measurable sport and is not primarily about the summit, but about the experience. I don't remember the summit, but the strong, hard, also beautiful moments and the partners who helped me see the summits from the summits.

  But to the point. By the time we arrived at Base Camp, I had two weeks of shuffling around central Hymalaya in my lungs and legs. In other words, stronger internal safeguards against overload, where the body will flounder from lack of oxygenation. We reached the cool spot around the lake on the 13th of May, and I happily sent the porters to Khare immediately after putting down the luggage. Which is a village more than ten hours away in another valley, separated by a high saddle of five and a half thousand feet. We were left all alone in a beautiful place surrounded by mountains, waiting for the starting shot. The moment had come to take a good look at what awaited us. There was little snow and dark rock reliefs and deep blue ice peeked out from the surrounding walls. I stared at a starving herd of horses, every bone sticking out of their skin and ribs that could be played like a harp. This spring's monsoon will not bring the salvation of snow. Still, there was one difference from past years. A noticeable all-day chill. Whether or not this will be good for our climbers remains to be seen. Accepting what you can't control is the key. Then turn it into a miracle. That's down to human imagination, will, skill, aided by the stars overhead. You don't need more. Now there was nothing to do but wait for the auspicious moment, which Alena, the "dew", told me with the daily feed via satellite.

  The day of arrival did not come until Friday, May 19. Matej and I prepared a backpack of climbing material and everything we needed for five days, which would be enough to go up and back to return safely. We were excited and had the image of the SZ wall fixed in our minds.

  Day One

  Our camp was directly below the wall on the glacier at 5500 meters. A comfortable place to sleep, except for the view above us. There was an icy slope from the base that could be 50° at the bottom. With more metres it became more gentle, and at the top it became a perpendicular threshold, where the jagged glacial serac was mocking. Above it rose a wall of rock, darkly overhanging and impenetrable to the eye. Good night and sleep well. No fleas, no black nightmares, no imagining what the morning holds...

  Day Two    

  The climbing of the first section was as expected. There was no uncertainty between us in the beginning, only the rope made a silent connection between our destinies. We were gaining altitude rapidly with each passing hour. Around ten o'clock the sun's rays finally leaned on us. They weren't aggressive, but they were enough to make the morning frostiness slowly leave us. A little after noon, we crawled under the colliest part of the ice slide that crossed the serac threshold. The slope reached 80°, rising only occasionally into perpendicular blue ice. The effort grew, the progress slowed, and the afternoon sun quickly wandered toward the west. The fatigue of constantly looking up and whacking ice axes was evident in the back of the neck and shoulders. The lungs are keeping up for now, but would surely vote for a break too. On one oblique traverse, through a system of couloirs that followed the next direction of ascent, I happened to come across a cave. This was formed some time ago when the ice shell moved downward in one section, introducing a fault with a meter-long detachment. Wow..., for us it was a place for a bivouac, just above 6000 meters, sent by the sky itself.

  Day Three

  If the weather hadn't bothered us too much with wind and snow until then, today, without an invitation, a change came. In the morning the sun was smiling at us and after a moment of joy the clouds took over.  From the bivouac we climbed another 150m of ice organ to where a continuous rock barrier grew out of it. There the predictable trouble occurred. The very first meters showed that the rock was like gingerbread. And it was covered with unstable snow. The dance on crampons began, and the swinging of the ice axes, which hardly found support at the end of their tips. I was reminded of the cartoon character Mickey Mouse as he swung his legs and arms over the precipice, and for a moment it looked like he would never fall. I only climbed two lengths in this dunghill, seventy feet after a great strain. All the belaying had more of a psychological effect than it could be relied upon. When I was catching Matej, he fell out twice with something. Fortunately, the place I had set up on the shield held, and so our bodies did not flow towards the valley. I knew we wouldn't move another meter. The weather also made it clear that we should quickly find a place to spend the night. Snowfalls began to come down from the summit and the wind bit through our clothes to the bone. However, there was no platform in sight where at least one butt could sit. Everything was hostilely sloping. There was nothing to do but start digging into the icy slope, which had a 70° slope. Even there, after twenty minutes of banging like a deaf man on a door, there was no victory. Beneath a few centimetres of ice, a rock with the same slope lay. We're screwed and so is the whole circus. What to do next was clear. In the belay we were hanging on, it was necessary to attach the tent canopy. Later, it evokes a large bag of rubbish hanging from a nail. We had to somehow squeeze into it with our sleeping bags and all the junk so that nothing would fall off. There is nothing to lean on in the tent, so our remains slide on the slippery ground. We're two marionettes trapped by a flipper in the middle of an inhospitable wall. A night of passion unlike any other has taken more than enough of our dwindling strength.

  Day Four

  The key day of the whole climb. We didn't know if we would be able to climb the following rock meters, but it was clear that if we didn't, we were in big trouble. Getting back through the places we had been climbing for two days was hard to imagine. On the other hand, the eighty-meter rock section overhead looked like one big overhang. An inner voice whispered to me every time I didn't know and my fears only grew: "Give a concentrated valid attempt and see". It took long hours before two lengths of quarrying were under my feet. The gaping chasm down at the foot of the glacier was already a good mile long. The fear disappeared. There was no more room for it. There was only a feeling of muscle fatigue, a buzzing alarm in my head that the psyche was also grinding its last. The body began to shiver from hypothermia and snow began to fall from the sky. The cursed rock is behind us and the path to the summit is open. At this point Matej stepped in and with a precise routine started the next two ice lengths. At the end of the second one he found a slope crack, which I had been looking for since the start. I thought that there might be a place for a bivouac. It was, too, in a seventy degree slope another kiss from this world. We set up the tent, boil water for our stiff and dried guts. We lie down on the couch, which, compared to the previous evening, seems to be even with the sky.

  Day Five

  Up today for cherry and whipped cream. Easy said, harder done. Our toes send an accusation to the nervous system every time we stumble into the unforgiving frozen mass, resembling blue glass, "ouch... it hurts"! The hands, too, get cramps from a thousand blows with the axe. My shoulders can no longer feel and the backpack straps are cut into my armpits to the point of hambo. Less than two hours have passed since leaving the bivouac and the final hundred and forty metres of altitude are behind us. There is nowhere to climb further. No applause or cheers. Our faces are crowded out by smiles, which rather reflect the joy of not having to take a step higher. We hug each other, pat each other on the back. We quickly take out our cameras, our cameras. Click..., tape recording and the whole ceremony of celebration is over. I feel relaxed, but the day is far from over. One last look at the pointy world around us. I stare at the frozen beauty and try to etch it indelibly into my memory again. But the image never lasts long before it begins to fade away completely. The only thing that remains trapped in the colourful memories is the hardship, the toil and the partner with whom you endured the martyrdom. The view slides to the nearest mountain giants. Barunce, which is connected by a ridge just within reach, and Chamlang on the other side. Suddenly, I feel a strong impulse completely engulf my consciousness and an unstoppable wave rushes out. You're nostalgic, you old fool. At the same time, I wipe away the tears that are pressing into my eyes. Surely you managed to climb a great first ascent of either hill years ago, and there's Kyashar. Further to the east, Talung and through a few more valleys, Kyazo Ri. Pull yourself together and don't beat yourself up as this is not the time to dissect memories. Not to mention that the most poignant thing is the knowledge that my train is already approaching its final stop, where it will be taken off the tracks in the coming years. Okay thanks Himalaya,...one last boo and off you go up the arse.

  Descending down the ridge that resembled the sharp back of a lochneska took its toll on Mathew. I was glad I did, as you can see the footprints in the snow ahead that announce "man has passed here and here he comes". Such a placebo effect, or connection to life. It doesn't matter that Matej and I are tied together on a rope twenty meters apart. We move in a common rhythm, leaving the mutual belay in the hands of the Almighty.  A kilometre-long parachute on either side, and every step means snapping ice axes and kicking crampons. Either one was a game of chance. Hands and feet moved a little each time before finding stability in the loose snow. Hours passed and the valley floor only reluctantly approached. Just before dark, we cleared the snow bank. Our feet, resembling a rag doll, clumsily tread in a sea of stone. Every now and then a pile of rocks is released when we step on it, and it tumbles with a clatter somewhere into the coming darkness.

  The story of Sura Peak ends. Before eleven at night, we arrive at the "teehouse" of Seto Pokhari. A kind of stone enclosure with a cage instead of a roof, where porters and our friend Pavel are waiting for us. For our tortured bodies, a scream and the center of civilization.

  In summary, the climb we called "Simply Beautiful" was crystalline alpinism. A beautiful untouched wall. No pampered Base Camp and bouncing staff around. Just a few meals in the forota while we waited to start the descent. One assault tent, a backpack with climbing gear, a rope as an umbilical cord, our plan and determination. Nothing unnecessary. Then it was a battle for every step on the NW face to the top and a run back down to life. That's the end.

  The last words will belong to Matej, whom I thank. Also thanks to the one or ones on the air who held a protective hand over us. And thanks to you and your partners for your support and goodwill.

  Maara


expid: JARK23101
peakid: JARK
year: 2023
route1: S Ridge (to 6257m)
route2: SW Ridge (to 5700m)
nation: Japan
leaders: Daijo Saito
sponsor: Japanese Jarkya Himal Expedition 2023
approach: Machha Khola->Samdo
bcdate: 2023-04-15
smtdate: 2023-04-28
termdate: 2023-05-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6257m due to exhaustion
campsites: BC(15/04,4571m),ABC(19/04,4812m),C1(27/04,5644m),xxx(28/04,6257m)
agency: Hoshi Treks
routememo:
  Approach:  Machha Khola->Samdo

  BC  15/04  4571m underneath rock face
  ABC 19/04  4812m
  C1  27/04  5644m
  HPt 28/04  6257m by all (4) climbers.

  Approach route to BC was from Samdo; it was 11 km on a yak trail. They passed many kharkas on the way. On 16/04 they rested at BC. On 17/04 they went on a walk to acclimatise; on 18/04 Sugimoto and Nomura did a recce and checked the South Ridge of the East Peak, however, it looked rather broken and sandy.

  South Ridge attempt:

  On 19/04 they reached ABC and on 20/04 they reached 5520m in their search for a suitable C1 which they found. The route up to the envisaged C1 was not so technical. Only one place climbing was necessary.

  They returned to BC the same evening and rested there for a few days. They had bad weather and a lot of snow.

  On the evening of 26/04 they returned to ABC – it was about 1.5 hours walk.

  On 27/04, they established C1 and on the same day, Sugimoto and Saito ascended to 5769m. They fixed a rope for abseiling and returned to C1 the same day.

  On 28/04, the team left C1 for their summit push at 4 am. Weather was good on that day, which was a change to the previous days. The route was not so steep. At around 1pm, they reached 6257m. The team felt exhausted, the weather had changed for the worse, and they realised that their plan to climb to the main peak via the East Peak was not possible. The climb was too technical to descend on the other side and reach the main summit.

  The descended to C1 where they arrived at about 4 pm.

  On 29/04 they returned to BC to make a new plan. They decided to attempt the SW Ridge.

  SW Ridge attempt:

  C1  01/05  4970m

  On 01/05 they left BC to ascend to and establish their C1.

  On 02/05 they ascended to around 5700m and checked the route. Sugimoto fell into a crevasse, but fortunately they were on a rope and he could climb out again with Saito’s help. After this incident the team, who was exhausted, decided that the route was too dangerous and returned to C1, where they spent the night. On 03/05 they descended to BC. Team left BC on 05/05.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used

  Fixed rope: Only short abseiling sections


expid: KABS23101
peakid: KABS
year: 2023
route1: W Face
nation: Slovakia
leaders: Peter Hamor
sponsor: Kabru South Expedition 2023
ascent1: 3rd
countries: Slovenia, Italy
approach: Tseram->Ramche->BC
bcdate: 2023-04-18
smtdate: 2023-05-12
smttime: 1630
termdate: 2023-05-17
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
campsites:
  BC(18/04,4610m),IC(26/04,4700m),C1A(27/04,5100m),C1B(04/05,5300m),C2(10/05,5700m),C3(11/05,6200m),Smt(12/05)

routememo:
  Approach: Tseram, Ramche

  BC  18/04  4610m in Ramche
  IC  26/04  4700m (crampon point)
  C1  27/04  5100m
  C1  04/05  5300m (high camp)
  C2  10/05  5700m
  C3  11/05  6200m
  Smt 12/05  by Hamor at 4:30 pm, Meroi, Benet and Bojan at about 5:30 pm.

  On 19/04 reccie and back to BC. Pitched tent at crampon point to deposit gear. On 27/04 they set up C1 and on 28/04 the moved to about 5300m, left some tents there and descended to Ramche. Bad weather followed for a few days. On 04/05 they moved back to 5300m and stayed the night. On 05/05 they ascended the route a bit and descended back to Ramche.

  On 09/05 they started from BC their summit push. On 10/05 they moved their tent to C2, pitched the tent, ascended for about 200m to find the way across the barrier and descended again to C2 to spend the night. On 11/05, they found a safe place on the face and set up their C3.

  On 12/05 they set out for their summit push. They left C3 at 4am on 11/05. They climbed up the face which was about 60 degrees. Hamor led without rope and the other three followed with a rope. The weather was clear, not so windy. And the conditions were perfect. From the balcony to the summit it was hard snow. Nice climbing. They spent a few minutes on the summit and they descended (rappel via an Abalakov). When they were on the descent, it was dark and they were not sure where their C3 was. As they did not want to risk getting lost, they went into a huge cave at 1 am at 6400m where they stayed until 5 am.

  They descended to C3 which took them about 3 hours and stayed the night. They were exhausted and also did not want to move down the face in the sunshine as it would have been too dangerous. On 14/05 they packed up their C3 and descended to Ramche. On 15/05, they went back to crampon point and cleared all their gear.

  On 14/05 during the descent to Ramche, Meroi slipped just before crampon point. She slid for a few metres and fell down a serac for about 5 metres. She lie there for a while but then continued down to Ramche. Back in Kathmandu, she went to Norvic clinic and found out that 3 or 4 ribs were broken.

  Left BC on 17/05 by heli to Tapetok to Lukla to Kathmandu	 

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


  Peter Hamor’s report on his web-site:

  We have put up our Base Camp in Ramche (4610m) right next to the last tourist’s lodge in the valley on April 18th, and very next day, on April 19th we have left for Oktang – which is underneath of the Kabru’s West Face on other side of Yalung glacier. The ice culoir was in terrible condition, so we had to chang direction and move to icefall more on the left at height of 4700 meters and put up depot (crampons point). Despite the bad weather we have managed to find the way across the Icefall, but on April 28th we were forced to go back to the Base Camp due the heavy snowing and really bad snow conditions.

  After the period of bad weather we had a chance to go up again on May 4th. Next day we found the way across the Icefall to 5600m. But again, due the dangerous snow conditions, we had to go back to Base Camp and had to wait for better day.

  The summit attempt we’ve started in Ramche, on May 9th at 5:30 am – Nives and Romano, Bojan and myself. Surprisingly, we have found our two tents after days of strong winds and snowing without any damage. Next day, on May 10th, we succeeded to get out of the Icefall and put up our two tents in the safe place at height of 5700m. The same day, we have found the way through the Ice Barrier in front of us and got back to tents. On May 11th, we have packed the tents and moved higher.

  There was still a blizzard on the ridge, but no wind on the wall, so we put the tents up on the safe point at height of 6200m. Vitor’s (Vitor Baia) weather forecast was optimistic and the wind stopped during the night. Summit attempt: we have started at 4:00 am. We made it through dangerous section of crevasses to a "Funnel", where the steepest and most demanding part starts.

  Steep and hard blue ice led us to a "Balcony" underneath the summit rocky pyramid. There the terrain was little milder and on hard-packed snow. I made it to the summit of KABRU IV, 7318m, at 4:30 pm. Few minutes after, also Bojan, Nives and Romano.

  We started descent immediately, but lots of rappels and making V-threads took us many hours. We have continued the descent and rappels even after dark. Finally at 1:30 am we decided to bivouac in huge ice cave at the height of 6400m. We all have survived this cold night and at 5:00 am we started to descent to our tents, where we could finally rest a bit, drink enough water and get warm. The very next day we reached Base Camp in Ramche late in the afternoon.

  Our First Ascent in the West Face of Kabru IV was made in light, fair style, without fix ropes, without artificial oxygen, without building camps and without any other help. It is very nice and logic line; in case of snowing or bad snow conditions, the ascent might be quite dangerous.


expid: KANG23102
peakid: KANG
year: 2023
route1: SW Face
nation: Georgia
leaders: Avtandil Tsintsadze
sponsor: Satori Adventures Kangchenjunga Expedition 2023
countries: Andorra, Canada, Estonia, France, India, Spain, UK, Ukraine
bcdate: 2023-04-22
smtdate: 2023-05-18
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to route-fixing and finding issues
campsites: BC(22/04),C1,C2,C3,C4(7300m),xxx(8100m)
agency: Satori Adventures
routememo:
  Report from Avtandil Tsintzadze:

  BC  22/04     5500m
  C1  27-28/04  6200m (for both members and Avtandil’s Sherpa)
  C2  06/05     6200m for Avtandil and Pema Sherpa
  C3  12/05     6900m for Zurab
  HPt           See details in the route notes.

  Fixed rope: Sherpa fixing team

  Climb abandoned on 15 May due to lack of route preparation by the Sherpa fixing team.

  Left BC on 16 May 2023.
   
  Sherpas above BC: 1 for Avtandil (Pema Sherpa)

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used

  Avtandil Tsindzadze: HPt at C2/6200m on the night of the 6th May.

  Zurab Kvestadze: Manaslu in 2021 without oxygen and sherpa support, Lhotse in 2022 without oxygen and sherpa support. HPt at 7300m/C4 on the 13th May.

  Avtandil took full service above BC with a personal Sherpa from Satori called Pema Sherpa; Zurab climbed on his own above BC, using Satori’s services just at BC.

  • Zurab:

  27/04: first rotation to C1/6200m. Spent 2 nights there.
  29/04: back to BC.
  11/05: BC to C1. (2nd rotation)
  12/05: to C3 6900m.
  13/05: touched C4 7300m and went back to BC. Fixing team also went back to BC 
        from C4 on that same day.

  • Avtandil:

  First rotation (27 to 29th April) everyone from Satori made same dates.

  Avtandil and his Sherpa had a second rotation on 6 May from BC to C2/6200m (C1 and C2 were at the same altitude); it was the highest point for Avtandil. On the day after, he went back down to BC.

  From C1 to C2 is a very short distance, needing 30-40 minutes of climbing only.

  • Third rotation/Summit push:

  15th May Satori team started from BC for the summit push, but both members decided to stay at BC, this because the rope wasn't fixed to the top. In their opinion, the fixing team wasn't well organized and there were many issues, so that they preferred to give no summit attempt in such situation. The expedition was over.

  On the 16th May, both members flew back from BC to Lukla then to KTM.

  • Additional info:

  Fixing team started from BC on the 15 May at 11 pm. Still the day before, the organization among the Sherpa rope-fixing team was still obscure. On the 18 May, most of the team started from C4. In fact the crew took the wrong turn in the Gangway starting on the 2003 route “La Luce del Nirvana”, reaching a high point of 8100m down a steep hard rock section. Only Kristin Harila and her Sherpas would make it eventually on this day, retreating down then using the normal route.


expid: KANG23104
peakid: KANG
year: 2023
route1: SW Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Luis Stitzinger
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks (SST) Kangchenjunga Expedition 2023
countries: Brazil, China, France, Iran, Japan, Norway, Peru, Poland, Romania, UK, USA
smtdate: 2023-05-25
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(25/05,01/06)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Report from Vibeke Sefland:

  Approach: by heli from KTM

  BC  21/05  5500m
  C1   --    6200m
  C2  22/05  6200m
  C3  23/05  6800m
  C4  24/05  7350m
  Smt 25/05  by Sefland, Chhepal Sherpa at 7:40 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 6 pm. The rope-fixing team was in front of them who had been fixing for almost 24 hours. After about three hours climbing, the team received a radio call from the rope-fixing team who said that they had run out of rope about 100m below the summit. When they reached about 8500m at 7 am Chhepal took over and used some old rope to fix to the summit. Vadim Druelle helped him fix the rope. They reached the summit at 7:40 am.

  They spent about 30 minutes on the summit and descended to C4 where they arrived at 3 pm for a short rest and then continued to C3, where they arrived at 5 pm. On 26/05 back to BC. Left BC on 29/05 heli to Tapletok.

  Stitzinger:

  On the descent, Sefland saw Stitzinger at 9:30 am at about 8300m. He seemed tired with glassy eyes. He had blisters on his lips and did not really look himself. He was focused on his target to reach the summit. They chatted and Stitzinger said that he would want to catch up with Cuenca. Now Sefland thinks that he must have been hypoxic by then as there was no way for him to catch up with Cuenca, who was far ahead. Sefland told Stitzinger to leave his skis there as the summit was too rocky to ski so he said he would. He was later seen by Cuenca with ONE ski which he carried up to the summit – maybe for the picture.


  Report from Flor Cuenca Blas:

  BC  01/05  5500m
  C1         6200m
  C2  05/05  6200m
  C3  11/05  6900m
  C4  17/05  7300m
  Smt 25/05  by Druelle at 7:30 am, Cuenca at noon; Stitzinger at 5 pm.

  The rope-fixing team reached 6700m on 05/05 when Cuenca was at C2. She ascended to 6700m on 06/05 and returned to BC. On 10/05 Stitzinger and Cuenca started their second rotation and stayed at C3 on 11/05. They wanted to ascend higher, but there was no fixed rope, and it was very windy. They descended to BC on 12/05.

  1st summit push:

  They ascended to C2 on 15/05; C3 16/05; C4 17/05.

  Team started summit push at 10.30pm on 17/05. The team of five rope fixing Sherpas (2 SST, 2 Arun, 1 Satori) were ahead. Weather was perfect, good conditions. The whole team (including Harila and her Sherpas) ascended the wrong couloirs (they did not go to the left). When the Sherpas realised that they had gone the wrong way, they turned back at about 8,200m. Cuenca thought that everyone had gone back but when they were on the way down, they saw that Harila and her two Sherpa ascended the right route. By the time, they realised that Harila was on her way up, they were at C4. Cuenca descended to C2 on 18/05, Stitzinger to BC.

  2nd summit push:

  Team started summit push on 22/05 to C2; 23/05 C3; 24/5 C4. Cuenca, Druelle and Stitzinger left C4 at 7 pm. The fixing team left C4 at 2 pm on 24/05. They summited at around midnight and descended and destroyed the trail on their way down. During the ascent, Cuenca stayed with Luis until the turned left to the couloirs, where they changed lead. Cuenca broke trail and Stitzinger fell further behind. Cuenca put some power in as she wanted to summit before 8 am due to the bad weather forecast. She reached the summit at about noon. It was not so windy. She spent about 30 minutes on the summit and started her descent.

  At about 1:20 pm at about 8480m she saw Stitzinger on his way up and she was surprised to see him as he was still ascending despite his slow pace. They talked for a short while and as Stitzinger seemed Ok she did not urge him to turn back. He had ONE ski on his backpack, but told Cuenca that he would leave his backpack and ski at this point. When he was in the process of doing it, Cuenca started her descent. She arrived at C4 at 5:30 pm. Left BC on 29/05 heli to Tapletok.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

  Luis Stitzinger missing:

  She talked on the radio with Stitzinger when he was on the summit at 5 pm. She told him to be careful on his descent. At about 7 pm, she saw a light that above the couloir and she asked Stitzinger whether it was him. He said yes and that he was in the couloirs but he was obviously above.

  At 9:30 pm, Stitzinger said that he has now reached 8300m and that he would be at C4 in about 2-½ hours. He said that it was “easier from here”. This was the last contact with Stitzinger.

  Flor spent the night trying to contact Stitzinger but no response. The next morning at 6 am, she was told by Nuri, the BC manager, that a rescue team was underway and would come in 2 hours. As Cuenca had no epi-gas left and was very tired, she packed the tent and Stitzinger’s gear and left C4 at about 10 am and descended to BC where she arrived at 6:30 pm.

  No rescue team had arrived on that day and the team tried everything to get a rescue team to go back up to the mountain. They offered the Sherpas money to go back up, but nobody was willing to do so. On 27/05 and 28/05 there were no helis going to BC due to bad weather – so no rescue.

  Stitzinger was found at an altitude of about 8400m by the search team of 3 Sherpas on 30/05. They Sherpas will bring him down and take him to Kathmandu.


  Report from Vadim Druelle:

  Approach: trek from Yampudhin, then via Tortong, Tseram, Ramche, until Kangchenjunga BC at Yalung Glacier.

  BC  20/04  5540m at 5 pm.
  C1  27/04  6200m
  C2  05/05  6200m (C2 was located only 30 min from C1).
  C3  11/05  6920m
  C4  17/05  7350m (never slept there, see route notes)
  Smt 25/05  by Vadim Druelle circa 7 am.

  • Acclimatization:

  During the approach march, Vadim Druelle (VD) would join with Luis Stitzinger (LS)  from Tseram. Together they would trek until the classic BC, when the rest of the group would take helicopter from Tseram to BC.

  25/05: VD went up alone to 6000m, breaking the trail, stopping at the last horizontal section below the last climbing section to C1’s top.

  26/05: Puja was held in BC.

  27/05: VD went up with LS to C1, sleeping there.

  28/05: Yet having great weather conditions, considering his very few provisions and absence of equipment above, instead of staying at C1 doing nothing, VD and LS chose to go back down to BC. “I would go up when route would be prepared”. Some Spanish members slept one more night there.

  01/05: VD and LS went back up to C1, since VD had left his light tent there and he didn’t want it to break. VD took the opportunity to make a push to C2 for reconnaissance then came back to C1. When he was back, he met with LS who was just arriving there. Then both went back down to BC.

  Then some bad weather period occurred.

  05/05: VD, LS, and everyone went up. VD broke the trail from BC to C2. The effort was hard, since a certain amount of snow had fallen; snow quality was heavy till C1, then lighter to C2. Most of time he got snow up to half leg, maximum to the knees. Slept at C2 that night. 

  To be mentioned that C1 wouldn’t be much used anymore after that. C1 site would just make a nice stop for doing pictures.

  06/05: VD went up to 6700m on good hard snow, yet he was stopped because of the wind. Yet not a very hard section, it’s still a serious one in steep slope, enough to remain cautious: since he likely had wrongly tightened his crampons on, during his descent, he lost balance and lost both crampons, yet the lanières would hold it anyway. Luckily, VD would always on his ice axe rather than fixed ropes, so that even if he didn’t need it that time, he would have had a safety anyway. Slept again at C2 that night.

  07/05: VD went up to C3, reaching it rather late on purpose, aiming to sleep with Spanish staying there (Dominik was the leader, Oscar...). Like that he wouldn’t have to move his tent, left at C2. But it was so windy that the Spanish came back down, so VD just touched C3 on this day. Since he wasn’t wearing the appropriate gloves, in the wind he would contract minor frostbites whose effect would stand for the rest of the expedition. From that day on he would always wear heaters. Went back to BC on that day.

  11/05: preparing his one shot ascent, VD carried his high altitude gear up to C3 and slept there. On this day he felt particularly well, in fact climbing BC to C3 in one shot of 4h40 with a 25-kgs bag.

  For the annecdote, VD had planned to pitch his tent at C3 with the help of LS and Flor Cuenca (a Peruvian female climbing without oxygen). But before he reached C3, with 80km/h wind gusts, his frostbites took another blow/hit. When landing there, he thus asked in haste to He Jing if she could share some space in her tent (being a large 4-persons North Face), knowing she was alone in it with her Sherpa, but they answered him “no”. Then VD pitched his tent helped by LS. Later in the evening, a Polish climber arrived in a hurry to the camp, and VD left him enter and share it for the night.

  12/05: since the deposit of his gear was ready for the summit push, VD went back down to BC. He had planned that, if he would feel well going up at C3 in one shot, it would mean that he would be ready for the summit push. If not feeling well instead, he wouldn’t have tried it in one shot.

  • 1st summit attempt: 17-18 May

  15/05: Most of the other team members left for the first summit push. VD had his own schedule, planning to join the crew at C4 two days later.

  Kristin Harila would arrived by helicopter to the BC on the 16 May, going up straight to C2 for sleeping, then C4 on the day after.

  17/05: VD started from BC at 14h Had to re-break the trail, filled by the wind since the day before. It wasn’t worse: cold snow, not too hard to break (maximum to half the leg). He reached C3 in 3h55 at circa 17h55. In comparison, this time his bag was only 4 kgs. At C3 he would stop for 1h30: changed clothes for the upper part, had a lyophilized food, melted some water for the water bottles.

  VD started again from C3 at 19h30, reaching C4 2h30 later, at circa 22h30. This section of the trail proved harder to break, with wind-blown or crusted snow, all-in-all heavier. At C4, he shared a short 15 min stop with LS, who was just about to leave. Flor was still there also. As a delicate attention, LS had melted for him some water on purpose, so that he could drink something warm.

  Straight after they started from C4, VD would quickly distance them, even if he was a bit afraid to go too fast from now on; in that way, he would keep forcing himself to balance his pace, refraining to go too fast.

  18/05: During the night in «the gangway», it happens that at circa 8000m the Sherpas fixing the route took the wrong direction, starting on the 2003 route “Luce del Nirvana”. After understanding its mistake when it was stopped down a hard rocky section, the entire group had to abandon and come back down. VD and the group were simply told that it was finished for the summit. The group wouldn’t understand at first, but abandon was decided at circa 5h22.

  Descending almost back to the «gangway», Druelle made a short video showing him at circa 8000, disappointed, down to the freshly equipped wrong route, circa 50m east to the «Pinnacle 1» of the topographic study. VD was impressed that, from their high point back to C4, because of the fatigue/aftermath, everyone including him would need to make regular stops, almost every 30m, almost falling asleep! Then he was back to C4 at 7h30. VD would make a siesta there until 11h. Then he would go back down to BC, reached at 15h with a stop at C3 to take off his down suit. During that descent, knowing he thought the expedition was over, he also removed his C3 deposit: a shame because he wouldn’t have it for the next successful attempt; in addition he would need to climb up with boots all the way long!

  Other member account (Catherine from France):

  https://www.myatlas.com/catherine74/expedition-au-kanchenjunga?fbclid=IwAR2iQyuXWvc2ec67e9g7GGSxBd9DKI10GrD-ibfp9FiaQ_vzS2ofT3fKL7A

  On that same day, Harila with her two Sherpas would take back the correct normal route to summit at 13:30 on that day.

  At BC, the following days, VD would rest a maximum. Still he wasn’t sure to stay or not, mostly when seeing everyone leaving, everyone being worn out by the way: this didn’t help him to motivate. But LS convinced him to stay for another attempt. LS told him: the glacier is in good conditions, without too many crevasses; the route general state is not that dangerous, there’s not too many snow; all-in-all a good opportunity for trying it again. This convinced VD to stay.

  • Second summit attempt: 24-25 May

  24/05: VD started from BC at noon. This morning, knowing the crew wanted to start from C4 at 17h and that VD wanted again to take the opportunity of the "aspiration effect" of the crew, he wondered if he wouldn’t be too short to join the crew in time just starting from BC at noon, but he eventually chose to do so anyway.

  This time he would be slower, needing 4h30 for going up to C3, reaching it at 16h30. Then in opposite to the previous time, he would be much faster between C3 and C4, since the trail would be found in better conditions (yet he had to break trail a bit again in that section). All-in-all, from BC to C3, he had to break the trail up to the knees, in usual heavy snow until C1, then in lighter snow upwards. VD insisted that he would always carry his ice axe, not trusting much the fixed ropes (some of it wrongly fixed in the ice, with many of the crew sometimes pulling on it at the same time!).

  VD reached C4 at 18h30. There he joined again LS and Flor as they were just starting. The rest of the crew had already left. There VD made a stop, ate a lyophilized food (salmon pasta, "not that great"), made water again for getting all necessary liquid supply for the upper part, all-in-all 3.5 liters of liquid (2.5 liters of water with energetic powder in it; one Red Bull and one Coca Cola planned to be used on return from the summit). Surprisingly, he would develop a beginning of AMS at the camp, starting with a strong headache.

  So when VD started again from C4, at circa 19h30-20h, instinctively from now on he would keep practicing a strong breathing exercise, forcing himself to breathe strongly while walking slowly (sort of suroxygenation effect?). The result proved excellent, so that after 200m upwards the headache had disappeared; moreover he could keep a clear mind until the top, recitating himself for instance all 14 8000ers names and altitudes or the alphabet in both sense.

  At circa 7700m/7800m, down the «Gangway»"’s entrance, he met LS and Flor who had started 1:30 before him from C4. Knowing VD had broken his sticks during the approach march, he couldn’t take opportunity of these in the easy sections; there LS kindly lent one of his sticks to VD, just telling him "But you'd better get to the top because I need it for the ski descent." From there, VD would continue up alone in the night.

  25/05: Further up in the «Gangway», he would meet with the successful fixing team freshly back from the summit; the fixing team actually hadn’t put much fixed rope on the route, mostly using the old ones.

  At the exit of the «Gangway», at circa 8250m, the fixing team had chosen a lower variant to the classic one a very few decimeters above, attacking the traverse via a steep mixed chimney. During this final stage of the climb to the top, as those with oxygen would slow him down and that he felt very well, VD would still wonder to regulate his own pace to calm down himself, this in order to avoid any adrenalyn shock or other potentially dangerous body reactions. Thus when at first he would double with oxygen climbers, after a while he stopped doing so. As an intermediate timing point, VD reached the lower traverse part middle rock spot (circa 8350m) at 4h37.

  VD reached the top at circa 7h by -38°C (without the wind effect), soon after a Sherpa. There he took time making some pictures and videos, enjoying the place for 30 min despite the col (“I had never experienced such a cold” he says afterwards). Most of the crew would reach the summit at the same time, with just Luis and Flor following later without oxygen.

  Then VD started his descent. 15 minutes later, after starting to down-scramble the upper traverse section, down to the route VD saw some blood on a stone and lower down to it, at circa 8560m, a dead body wearing classic La Sportiva boots (“I can recognize this type very easily”): that was the one of Rodrigo Vivanco, who died in 2019 after summiting. Continuing further down, VD would see an other dead body, all black, apparently sitting stiff on the ridge down to “5c” (see topographic report). Real body? Or just a black rock? [Afterwards the second option seems the most likely since no one has been reported dead in such awkward location in a recent time, plus many of such black rocks are to be found in the area]. Since he felt cold, he didn’t make much stops and went back down smoothly.

  Afoot of the intermediate ridge chimney’s access, he met Flor. She told him she would continue alone; knowing it was not too late - circa 8h30, he thought she was fine. So that he resumed his descent. At circa 9h, he then met LS down to the aforementioned mixed chimney. LS was very happy for him and left his skis in situ, at circa 8250m. For Vadim, in his case also, he thought that LS wasn’t especially late, nor he felt concerned for him at all. Meanwhile, LS had found back the stick he had lent to VD: when the latter had left it fall from one of his mitt as he was reaching the footstep of the mixed chimney, luckily the stick slided down straight to LS who could take it back! Despite the lucky outcome of the incident, it was perfect since LS had his stick back and that VD didn’t need it anymore for the final stage of the climb.  

  VD resumed his descent again, from now on sliding nicely most of the time on his bottoms in the «Gangway» then on the “Great Shelf” till C4, the latter reached at circa 11h. He just needed to pay attention on some ice sections to regulate his speed with his ice axe. Back to C4, VD would take care about his Inreach, since the latter had frozen in the night: his summit message in fact hadn’t been sent from there but actually after his meeting with LS downwards. After a siesta at C4, VD would resume again his descent at 14h, reaching BC at 17h23 (picture in front of his tent).  

  VD had left his chronometer working during the whole ascent from BC to summit: he had needed 18h43, in non-optimum conditions and using a heavier strategy (without intermediate deposit to C3), to establish the first known single push/fast ascent time without oxygen of the route and the mountain. The descent time, including the 30 min pause on top plus siesta time at C4 would be 10h23 (7h on top, 17h23 at the BC tent). His round trip time is thus 29h06.

  To be mentioned as the only known previous unofficial single push ascent the one with oxygen of Pemba Gelje Sherpa in 2018, him carrying a load for clients back then.

  Vadim left BC on 29 May.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

  Records: first known speed ascent of the route (and peak) without oxygen in 18h43 from BC to SMT and 29h06 round trip.

  Accidents: Slight frostbites beginning to all fingertips.


  Report from Adrian Laza:

  Approach: Flight to Bhadrapur, 2 days by Jeep via Ilam, 3 days trekking to BC.

  BC  20/04  5500m
  C1   --    did not sleep in C1
  C2  30/04  6200m
  C3  15/05  6900m
  C4  16/05  7400m
  Smt 25/05  by Laza, Pemba Sherpa at 7:30 am.

  First summit push on 17/05, until altitude of 8360m. They took the wrong way. Very dangerous terrain and a lot of rock fall. Back to BC. Waited for 2 days in BC.

  2nd summit push: Summit at 7:30 am. Started from C4 at 6 pm on 24/05. Last 200m to the summit ropes not fixed, Laza and others had to help fixing remaining ropes. Took them a lot of time in high altitude. On summit very cold and windy weather. Clear views. On the summit for maybe 15-20 minutes. Back to C4 at 12:30 pm, and down to C2 at 7:30 pm. Spent the night there. Next day to BC.

  After first summit push, Nima Sherpa and Pasang Dawa Sherpa got sick and had to abandon expedition. Laza continued with Pemba Sherpa after that.

  Laza met Stitzinger in summit corridor at around 9:30 am (3-4 hours from summit) at 8350m. Stitzinger was moving in normal pace. It was the last time Laza saw him.

  Very unsatisfied with SST service and with base camp manager. Lack of reaction from SST after Stitzinger’s disappearance. Only 4 days after his disappearance they sent rescue team to look for him.

  Laza left BC on 29/05 by helicopter to KTM.

  Oxygen: Taken and used by Laza and Sherpa from C4 to summit and down to C3.

  Hired:
    Nima Sherpa (HPt: 8360m)
    Pasang Dawa Sherpa (HPt: 8360m)
    Pemba Sherpa (S)

  Accidents: Laza hit by several rocks on first summit push, only minor bruises.


expid: KANG23105
peakid: KANG
year: 2023
route1: SW Face
nation: Norway
leaders: Kristin Harila
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks (SST) Kangchenjunga Exp 2023 (Kristin Harila)
bcdate: 2023-05-16
smtdate: 2023-05-18
smttime: 1245
campsites: BC(16/05),C2(16/05),C4(17/05),Smt(18/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  The story from Kangchenjunga, 8586m, May 18th 2023:

  We arrived at BC Kangchenjunga, the world’s 3rd highest mountain, after 2 days of rest in Kathmandu. The same day we arrived in BC, we climbed up to C2. I was happy to feel in good shape. It took us 4 hours up to C2 where we had a good rest.

  The following day, we climbed straight to C4. It was a long climb day of about 8 or 9 hours. At C4, we got a couple hours rest before the summit push.

  Lama started in front together with the fixing team. There were a lot of climbers in C4 that were ready to summit. I started out at 8:30 PM with Gelu Sherpa and put on oxygen when we left C4.

  After hours in pitch darkness, queuing with all the climbers, we realised we were on the wrong path. So, at 8200 meters, with everyone walking one after the other, we all had to turn around and walk back. This was stressful and difficult for all of us.

  Daylight came as we got back on the right track. However, there was no fixed rope on this path. We decided to go with a main rope, only 3 of us: Lama, Gelu and me, just attached to each other. It is harder to climb without fixed rope but we continued up even though we were all tired.

  We reached the summit at around 1 pm, after a 16-hour summit push. It was a super long push and an extremely hard mountain to climb with a lot of rocks.

  On the summit, we were welcomed with awesome weather! We filmed, took pictures and started to climb back down. On the way, we had an accident where Gelu hurt his leg. He decided to rest in C4 with the other climbers, while Lama and I continued to BC.

  After 28 hours we were down in BC. We had to wait an extra day for weather to clear for the helicopter to bring us to Lukla. This meant we could greet Gelu coming in to BC just one day after us.

  I am so grateful for Lama having the energy to climb up with me again. This last mountain has been very difficult for all of us mentally and physically and I can't express how thankful I am for his strength and his help.

  Thank you to my super strong sherpas Tenjen (Lama) Sherpa snd Gelu Sherpa from Seven Summit Treks.


expid: LANY23101
peakid: LANY
year: 2023
route1: S Face
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Robin Baks
sponsor: Dutch Yubra Himal Expedition 2034
approach: Sundarijal->Tatopani->Kyangchen Gompa->BC
bcdate: 2023-04-16
smtdate: 2023-04-22
termdate: 2023-04-23
campsites: BC(15/04,4126m),IC(17/04,4900m),C121/04,5475m(),xxx(22/04,5590m)
agency: Imagine Nepal
routememo:
  Approach: Sundarijal->Tatopani->Kyangchen Gompa

  BC  16/04  4126m (about 1 hour left of Kyangchen Gompa
  IC  17/04  4900m
  C1  21/04  5475m
  Hpt 22/04  5590m

  On 17/04 the team and seven porters, cook and kitchen boy ascended to what they thought was C1, but they realised that C1 was higher up than intended. It was a scramble up the face with loose rock. The team set up a camp at 4900m, stayed the night and descended. They went all the way to Kyangchen Gompa, where they stayed for one day.

  On 20/04 they returned to BC and on 21/04 they ascended all the way to C1. Imagine Nepal had sent three climbing Sherpas to support them, Pemba Nuru Tamang, Nima Sherpa and Pemba Sherpa. They stayed the night at C1. The weather was very snowy with thunderstorms. It took them about 7-½ hours from BC to C1. On 22/04, they intended to set up a C2 at about 5700m, however, the conditions on the mountains were too difficult. Big crevasses and bad weather prevented them from continuing. As they did not have enough material to cross the glacier they decided to abandon the expedition. They descended, cleared the mountain and returned to Kyangchen Gompa. Left BC on 23/04.

  On the way back, the team climbed Yala Peak and trekked out to Syabru Besi.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


expid: LHOT23101
peakid: LHOT
year: 2023
route1: W Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Sherpa Rope-Fixing
sponsor: Sherpa Rope-Fixing Lhotse 2023
smtdate: 2023-05-15
smttime: 1250
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(15/05)
routememo:
  A team of 3 Sherpas working for Imagine Nepal summited at 12:50 pm fixing ropes to the top:

    Tamting Sherpa
    Dawa Tenji Sherpa
    Pasang Namgyal Sherpa

  Ngima Nuru and Pemba Tamang provided support to the Lhotse fixing team by carrying rope and fixing equipment.


expid: LHOT23102
peakid: LHOT
year: 2023
route1: W Face
route2: S Col-W Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Mingma Gyalje Sherpa
sponsor: Imagine Nepal Lhotse Expedition 2023
countries: China, Pakistan, UK
smtdate: 2023-05-16
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(16,19/05)
agency: Imagine Nepal
routememo:
  From Imagine Nepal FB page:

  Mr Wang Zhong from China climbing Lhotse sets a new world record in just seven days!

  In just seven days, Mr Wang Zhong from China has set a new world record by climbing Lhotse, the fourth-highest mountain on Earth. He arrived in Kathmandu on 13th May and flew to Everest Base Camp the same day. On 19th May at 1:55 pm NPT, he reached the summit of Mt Lhotse, which stands at 8516 meters.

  Mr Wang has climbed five of the 14 eight-thousand meters mountain, which includes Cho Oyu, Everest, K2, Annapurna, and Lhotse. He was accompanied by one of Imagine Nepal's best climbing guides, Mr Lakpa Tenjin Sherpa, who was in Imagine Nepal's Everest fixing team and made it to the summit of Everest on 13th Mav 2023.


  Nadia Lisa Khoso and Naila Kiani summmited Lhotse on 16 May with their Sherpas, two days after summiting Everest on 16 May.


expid: LHOT23103
peakid: LHOT
year: 2023
route1: S Col-W Face
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Guy Cotter
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2023
countries: Germany, Australia
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Lobuje->Ever BC
bcdate: 2023-04-06
smtdate: 2023-05-24
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2023-05-26
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-231-05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
primid: EVER23105
campsites:
  BC(06/04,5350m),C1(23/04,6000m),C2(25/04,6440m),C3(08/05,7100m),C4(22/05,7900m),EverSmt(23/05),LhotSmt(21,24/05)

routememo:
  Approach: Pangboche, Lobuje, Everest BC

  BC  06/04  5350m
  C1  23/04  6000m
  C2  25/04  6440m
  C3  08/05  7100m
  C4  22/05  7900m
  Smt 23/05  by Jelly, Ott, Salomon, Chewang Dorje, Pasang Rinji, Nima Chhiri, 
             Lhakpa Chhiri, Samduk, Ang Dorje at 7:26 am, Dawa Chhiri, Heah, 
             Pasang Bhote at 11:30 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 10:30 am. Cold clear night. Straightforward climb. Whole team descended to C4 where they arrived at about 11:30 am. Heah reached C4 at 6 pm.

  Pasang Wongchu reached to above Balcony and below South Summit, but turned back due to cold feet.

  Overton and Thorne reached C4 on 22/05. Overton had respiratory infection; Thorne had sore calf muscles. He tried to go to Lhotse on 24/05, however, when he reached Lhotse C4 he suffered a bad respiratory infection. He descended to C2 and was flown on on 25/05. Overton descended to C2 on 23/05. Mark Austin never attempted to summit and descended with Overton on 23/05.

  Schultz reached about 7000m. She was too weak to climb the mountain and was turned around.

  Alba never intended to go up and stayed at BC as BC doctor.

  Peter Lethbridge (Lhotse only) reached C2, but left the expedition early as he was too slow.

  Cotter never left BC as he was BC manager.


  Lhotse summit on 24/05 by Ott and Pemba Chhewang at 8:30 am.

  Ott and Pemba Chhewang left with Thorne and Sunduk at 1:30 am from the South Col. Thorne abandoned at Lhotse C4 with a respiratory infection. Ott and Pemba descended to C2 after the summit and met Everest team. Everybody back on 25/05.

  Flown out of C2:
    Thorne for respiratory infection on 25/05.
    Lhakpa Chhiring Sherpa for frostbite on his big toe which he contracted on 
      the descent on 24/05.

  Team left BC on 26/05 walked to Namche, heli to Kathmandu on 27/05.

  Sherpas above BC: 15

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members; from C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.


expid: LHOT23104
peakid: LHOT
year: 2023
route1: S Col-W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Garrett Madison
sponsor: Madison Mountaineering Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2023
countries: Argentina, Canada, Netherlands, UAE
approach: Pangboche->Lobuje->Ever BC
bcdate: 2023-04-13
smtdate: 2023-05-25
smttime: 1025
termdate: 2023-05-28
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-231-06) and Nuptse (NUPT-231-01)
agency: Himalayan Guides
primid: EVER23106
campsites:
  BC(13/04,5350m),C1(24/04,6000m),C2(25/04,6440m),C3(21/05,7050m),C4(22/05,7900m),EverSmt(24/05),LhotSmt(25/05)

routememo:
  Approach: Pangboche, Lobuje, Ever BC

  BC  13/04  5350m
  C1  24/04  6000m
  C2  25/04  6440m
  C3  21/05  7050m
  C4  22/05  7900m (EVER C4)

  Lhotse summit on 25/05 at 10:25 am by Madison, Beiza, Horsman, Bulten, Ali, Ang Phurba, Dawa Tenji, Lhakpa.

  Lhotse summiters left Everest C4 at 1 am on 25/05. They descended to C4 Lhotse and continued to Lhotse. Summit at 8 am. Beautiful day and descended to C2.

  Yoder (Lhotse member) he reached C2 and decided he did not want to carry on.


expid: LHOT23105
peakid: LHOT
year: 2023
route1: S Col-W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Mike Hamill
sponsor: Climbing the Seven Summits (CTSS) Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2023
countries: Australia, Brazil, Estonia
approach: Pangboche->Lobuje->Everest BC
bcdate: 2023-04-14
smtdate: 2023-05-18
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2023-05-20
agency: TAGnepal Trekking (Pioneer Adventure pmt)
primid: EVER23108
campsites:
  BC(13/04,5350m),C1(21/04,6000m),C2(21/04,6400m),C3(15/05,7200m),C4(16/05,7900m),EverSmt(17-18,23/05),LhotSmt(18-19/05)

routememo:
  Approach: Pangboche, Lobuje, Everest BC

  BC  13/04  5350m
  C1  21/04  6000m
  C2  27/04  6440m
  C3  15/05  7200m
  C4  16/05  7900m

  LHOTSE summit on 18/05 at 9 am:

  01. Damian Mannix, Australia 
  02. Mingma Dorje Sherpa, Phortse, Nepal
  03. Kevin Cagney, USA
  04. Ashish Gurung, Sankhuwasabha, Nepal
  05. Roberto Terzini, Brazil 
  06. Pasang Tendi Sherpa, Juving, Nepal

  After their Everest summit, Cagney, Terzini, Ashish Gurung and Pasang Tendi descended to C4, rested for a while and set out to Lhotse at 3 am. They descended Geneva spur, ascended to Lhotse C4 (no rest) and summited Lhotse. After summit, they descended to C2.

  Mannix and Mingma Dorje left Lhotse C4 at around 3 am. Spent 15 minutes on the summit and descended to C2.

  LHOTSE summit on 19/05 at 9 am:

  Travis Van Overbeke
  Tendi Sherpa (Dolakha)
  Ott Tinn
  Dorjee Sherpa

  After their Everest summit, team descended to C4, rested for a while and set out to Lhotse at 3 am. They descended Geneva spur, ascended to Lhotse C4 (no rest) and summited Lhotse. Von Overbeke and Tendi descended to BC; Tinn and Dorjee to C2.


  Neil Fletcher (Lhotse) reached half way through the icefall. Fell sick with cough and left the expedition early.


expid: LHOT23106
peakid: LHOT
year: 2023
route1: W Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Lukas Furtenbach
sponsor: Furtenbach Adventures Lhotse Flash Expedition 2023
countries: Andorra, France, Switzerland
approach: Pangboche->Lobuje->Everest BC
bcdate: 2023-05-03
smtdate: 2023-05-17
smttime: 0445
termdate: 2023-05-20
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-231-09)
campsites: BC(03/05,5350m),C1(13/05,6000m),C2(14/04,6440m),C3(15/05,7100m),C4(16/05,7700m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Iceland Trekking
primid: EVER23109
routememo:
  Lhotse Flash Expedition:

  BC  03/05  5350m
  C1  13/05  6000m
  C2  14/05  6440m
  C3  15/05  7100m
  C4  16/05  7700m
  Smt 17/05  by Furtenbach, Grumberg, Backes, Kunga, Lhakpa and Pemba Rinji 
             at 4:45 am.

  Team left C4 at 11:30 pm on 16/05. Couloir was dry and a bit of rockfall. They spent about 30 mins on summit and descended to C2 where they arrived at 4 pm.

  Jacoma and Bionda wanted to summit without O2. Bionda reached about 7300m on 16/05 and turned back due to cold and exhaustion. Jacoma reached 7600m on 16/05 and turned back due to exhaustion and cold.

  Bannister, Chen, Hauer and Jolin had a Lhotse permit, but did not attempt it as they did not have the motivation anymore.


expid: LHOT23108
peakid: LHOT
year: 2023
route1: S Col-W Face
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Valentyn Sypavin
sponsor: Alpomania Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2023
countries: Moldova
approach: Pangboche->Lobuje->Everest BC
bcdate: 2023-04-23
smtdate: 2023-05-20
smttime: 0820
termdate: 2023-05-23
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-231-17)
agency: 8K Expeditions
primid: EVER23117
campsites:
  BC(23/04,5350m),C1(29/04,6000m),C2(30/04,6440m),C3(17/05,7100m),C4(18/05,7900m),EverSmt(19/05),LhotSmt(20/05)

routememo:
  Approach: Pangboche, Lobuje, Everest BC

  BC  23/04  5350m
  C1  29/04  6000m
  C2  30/04  6440m
  C3  17/05  7100m
  C4  18/05  7900m
  Smt 19/05  by Sypavin and Nima Sherpa at 9:20 am, Aslanova and Guru at 12 noon, Samsonenko and Sonam at 10:50 am, Zotea and Lhakpa Ongchu at 8:50 am.

  The whole team left C4 at 10 pm. Straightforward climb. After summit they descended to C4, where they spent the night. On 20/05 Samsonenkyo and Sonam descended to BC. Aslanova and Guru to C2.

  Sypavin, Nima, Zotea and Lhakpa Ongchu continued to Lhotse. The left Everest C4 at 1:30 am. They deposited some gear at Lhotse C4 and summited at:

  Lhotse  20/05  by Sypavin, Nima, Zotea and Lhakpa Ongchu at 8:20 am.

  Weather was good and clear. Couloir was dry and good condition. On their descent, they stopped at Lhotse C4 at about 10 am and continued to BC where they arrived at 8:30 pm.


expid: LHOT23109
peakid: LHOT
year: 2023
route1: W Face
nation: Mongolia
leaders: Zolzaya Baast
sponsor: Mongolian Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2023
smtdate: 2023-05-18
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-231-18)
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(18/05)
agency: 8K Expeditions
primid: EVER23118
routememo:
  From 8K Expeditions website:

  Huge congratulations to the Mongolian team for their 100% successful Mt. Everest & Lhotse summit!

  We are thrilled to announce that the Mongolian team has conquered the mighty Mount Everest, defying the extreme weather conditions that relentlessly tested their endurance and with the guidance of our exceptionally qualified 8K mountain guides, they overcame every challenge with grace and resilience. We applaud their unwavering determination and commend their remarkable achievement!

  Mt. Everest Summiteers Name List:
  1. ZOLBOOKHUU OMBO (17th May 2023)
  2. GANKHUU SAINBAYAR (18th May 2023)
  3. GERELT-OD TSERENDULAM (18th May 2023)
  4. ANKHBAYAR TSOGTBAYAR (18th May 2023)
  5. PASDAWA SHERPA (17th May 2023)
  6. ANG TEMBA SHERPA (18th May 2023)
  7. KARMA GYALJE SHERPA (18th May 2023)
  8. PASANG GYALGEN SHERPA (18th May 2023)

  Lhotse Summiteers Name List:
  1. BAYARSAIKHAN LKHASUREN (18th May 2023)
  2. ZOLZAYA BAST (18th May 2023)
  3. BATKHISHIG BALDORJ (18th May 2023)
  4. AMARTOGTOKH DORJSUREN (18th May 2023)
  5. PEMBA WONGCHU SHERPA (18th May 2023)
  6. MINGMA DORCHI SHERPA (18th May 2023)
  7. ASHOK LAMA (18th May 2023)
  8. PHURBA GYALJEN SHERPA (18th May 2023)

  This a proud moment for us and all of the people of Mongolia for 100% success summit news!


expid: LHOT23111
peakid: LHOT
year: 2023
route1: W Face
route2: S Col-W Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Herbert Hellmuth
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks (SST) Lhotse Expedition 2012
countries: Australia, India, Iran, Jordan, Netherlands, Pakistan, Russia, UK, USA
smtdate: 2023-05-18
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(18,23/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Report from Herbert Hellmuth:

  Approach: Lobuje, EBC

  BC  01/05  5350m
  C1  06/05  6000m
  C2  07/05  6440m
  C3  17/05  7040m
  C4  18/05  7741m
  Smt 19/05  by Hellmuth, Prem Tamang at 9:30 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 11 pm on 18/05. Straightforward climb. They spent 2 minutes on the summit as it was cold and windy and they descended to C2 where they arrived at 7 pm. On 20/05 to BC. Left BC on 21/05 walking to Gorak Shep, heli to Kathmandu on 22/05.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from 6800m to top to 7000m by Hellmuth; 
    from C3 to top to C3 by Prem


expid: LHOT23114
peakid: LHOT
year: 2023
route1: W Face
route2: S Col-W Face
nation: India
leaders: Bhagwan Chawale
sponsor: Pioneer Adventure Lhotse Expedition 2023
countries: China, UK, USA
smtdate: 2023-05-17
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,EverSmt(16/05),LhotSmt(17,19/05)
agency: Pioneer Adventure
routememo:
  From Pioneer website (16 May):

  Due to an unfortunate communication error originating from the summit to our base camp, we regret to inform you that adverse weather conditions, characterized by strong winds, have impeded progress. As a consequence, Bhagwan [Chawale] and Dandu were compelled to retreat from a position merely 20 meters shy of reaching the summit.

  Currently situated at Camp II, they are diligently evaluating the prevailing circumstances and will provide us with a comprehensive update regarding the feasibility of another attempt to achieve a successful summit ascent.


expid: LHOT23118
peakid: LHOT
year: 2023
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Gina Marie Rzucidlo
sponsor: Shangri-La Nepal Treks (SNT) Lhotse Expedition 2012
bcdate: 2023-04-20
smtdate: 2023-05-18
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2023-05-20
campsites: BC(20/04,5350m),C1(22/04,6000m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(16/05,7100m),C4(17/05,7600m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  Summit team left at 1 am, summitted at 9 am, stayed 20 minutes, then descended to BC at 9 pm. Very windy and cold on summit climb from C4.

  Gina Rzucidlo dislocated/fractured shoulder from slipping on ice and was hit in the head by a rock going up the Lhotse couloir.


expid: LHOT23119
peakid: LHOT
year: 2023
route1: W Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Norrdine Nouar
sponsor: Glacier Himalaya Lhotse Expedition 2023
approach: Namche->Renjo La->Cho La->Everest BC
bcdate: 2023-04-01
smtdate: 2023-05-19
termdate: 2023-05-23
campsites: BC(01/04,5350m),C2(10/04,6440m),C3(12/05,7040m),EverC4(16/04,7900m),LhotC4(20/05,7741m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Glacier Himalaya Treks (Himalayan Guides pmt)
routememo:
  Approach: Renjo La, Cho La, etc.

  BC  01/04  5350m
  C2  10/04  6440m
  C3  12/05  7040m
  C4  16/05  7900m (Ever C4 to acclimatize)
  C4  20/05  7741m
  Smt 21/05  by Nouar at 5:30 pm

  On summit day, Nouar left C4 at 5 am. The route was relatively quiet; the Lhotse couloirs was covered in a bit of snow. It was very windy, especially when he got out of the gully. He spent about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to C4 where he arrived at 8:45 pm. He intended to go down to C2; however, he was too late and too tired. On 22/05 back to BC. Left BC on 23/05 by heli due to cracked rib.

  Sherpas above BC: 1

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


expid: LNPS39201
peakid: LNPS
year: 1939
route1: SW Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Ernst Grob
ascent1: 1st
countries: Germany
approach: Sikkim->Zemu Glacier
smtdate: 1939-08-19
campsites: C1(15/08,6100m),C2(17/08,6400m),C3(18/08,6700m),Smt(19/08)
primid: NEPA39101
othersmts:
  Climbed Kirat Chuli (KIRA-391-01) and Nepal Peak (NEPA-391-01); attempted Gimmigela Chuli (GIMM-392-01) and Pyramid Peak (PYRM-392-01)


expid: LOBE23101
peakid: LOBE
year: 2023
route1: E Face Couloir-SE Ridge (up), SE Ridge (down)
nation: Slovakia
leaders: Ondrej Huserka
sponsor: Slovakian Lobuche East Expedition 2023
approach: Khumbu Trail
bcdate: 2023-03-17
smtdate: 2023-03-23
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2023-03-24
campsites: BC(17/03,4940m),Biv(22/03,5500m),LowSmt(23/05,6090m)
agency: Sherpa Adventure Travel
routememo:
  Approach: Khumbu trail

  BC  17/03  at Lobuche Village (4940m)
  Biv 22/03  5500m
  Smt 23/03  by both members (low summit of 6090m)

  Route: Lowe-Kendall 1986 route: E Face couloir to SE Ridge (normal rte)

  • Abstract:

  Huserka and his girl friend were in Khumbu in March, having just 20 days in Nepal to spend. They just hired one porter and made no real BC, but stayed in Lobuche village.

  The couple repeated the Lowe-Kendall route (WI 4+) on Lobuche East with one bivouac in the face, summiting the day after in heavy fog at the "trekking summit” (6090m), the main summit (6119m) lying further along the ridge. The route itself, found in very snowy conditions, felt rather like WI5+/M5 according to Ondrej. The duet descended by the normal route down to Lukla on the same day.

  • Schedule:

  09/03: arrival in Kathmandu

  10/03: KTM flight to Lukla

  10/03 to 17/03: acclimatization trek to Everest BC and Kalapatthar

  17/03 to 22/03: stayed in Lobuche village waiting for better weather. It was snowing a lot. Couple managed some treks around the area (approach under the wall, Kongma la pass).

  22/03: at 4 am duet started its approach from Lobuche village to Lowe-Kendall couloir on Lobuche East. There was really a lot of new snow, so the approach was crazy hard. They started to climb about 1 pm.

  The couloir Lowe-Kendall WI4+, was dry. There was only thin ice and lot of new snow. It was harder in such conditions (feeling like WI5+, M5+). At 9 pm team set up its tent 1 pitch below the ridge.

  23/03: They climbed one pitch and joined the normal route. On the normal route Eva used the fixed rope, whereas Ondrej continued to the top without using it. The trek to the top was made with 4 people in front (2 Nepal guides and 2 climbers).

  At circa 2 pm they reached Lobuche East trekking top (6090m) and started the descent. There were many clouds and the main peak was somewhere behind them.

  At 9 pm they were back in Dukla lodge. Left BC on 24 March.

  24/03: They continued to Pangboche
  25/03: Pangboche-Namche Bazar
  26/03: Exploration trek Namche Bazar-Thame-Namche Bazar
  27/03: Namche-Lukla
  28/03: Lukla-Kathmandu by helicopter
  29/04: duet flew home from Kathmandu
  01/04: back to Slovakia.

  Fixed rope: none 

  Sherpas above BC: none

  Oxygen: not taken, not used


expid: MAKA23101
peakid: MAKA
year: 2023
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Ecuador
leaders: Oswaldo Freire Cartegena
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks (SST) Makalu Expedition 2023
smtdate: 2023-05-13
smttime: 0835
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(13-15,29/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
countries:
  Australia, Chile, Czech Republic, Finland, India, Ireland, Iran, Israel, Japan, Romania, Russia, S Africa, Spain, UK, USA


expid: MAKA23102
peakid: MAKA
year: 2023
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Norway
leaders: Kristin Harila
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks (SST) Makalu Exp 2023 (Kristin Harila)
smtdate: 2023-05-13
smttime: 0835
campsites: Smt(13/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  The story from Makalu 8485m, May 13th 2023:

  This mountain was a challenge and I would not have been able to climb it alone. It only took four days between leaving Kathmandu and coming back and this was only possible because of the extraordinary teamwork from everyone.

  Seven Summit Treks planned everything smoothly and we knew how to reach the summit in a short amount of time.

  I was sad about leaving Jens but arriving to the SST Makalu BC was nice and I met two friends who supported me a lot. Thank you @itisinthename and @ossyfreire7.

  After a day in BC, the fixing team, Lama, Manish (@manish.maharjan444) and me went up to C2. Everyone performed really good except me. I felt very sick. It took us 5h to get up to C2, where we got a good rest before starting for C3 next morning.

  It took us 7h to reach C3 and I was still not in good shape, I got a UTI and hesitated turning back. We rested there for 3h30 and started the summit push at around 7 pm. I was so impressed by the teamwork of the fixing team (Makalu Lakpa Sherpa), Lama and the BC organizer. Lakpa Sherpa was nice and postive and a great leader.

  We climbed for many hours in the dark, there was no wind but it was super cold on the mountain. Because of my body condition I put on oxygen from C3 at about 7500m.

  After 13+ hours, the team reached the summit. Lama and the rest of the fixing team did an amazing job for all of us. The only reason we were able to summit this time was because of great teamwork.

  The UTI also made the climb down very painful and I had to pee a lot. It made the descent much more difficult. I also got a problem with my eye on the way down and had trouble seeing anything.

  After a 24h descent we finally got back to BC and I am feeling a little better.

  I want to again say how grateful I am for all of those who made this climb possible. Without your support, teamwork and strength I would not have been able to climb Makalu. Thank you so much to my super strong sherpa @tenjin.sherpa.752, to the incredible fixing team @makalulakpa_8485m and Seven Summit Treks.

  Kristin Harila


expid: MAKA23103
peakid: MAKA
year: 2023
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Valery Babanov
sponsor: 14 Peaks 8000 Club Makalu Expedition 2023
countries: Azerbaijan, Canada, Kazakhstan
smtdate: 2023-05-17
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(17-18/05)
agency: 14 Peaks Expedition
routememo:
  Report from Valery Babanov:

  Approach: by Heli from Pheriche

  ABC 28/04  5700m  (Babanov on 05/05)
  C1  01/05  6350m	
  C2  05/05  6500m
  C3  16/05  7500m	
  C$   --	   7800m
  Smt 17/05  by Babanov, Chinjung Bhote, Lukyanov, Korobeshko and Belkovich
             at 3:49 am
  Smt 18/05  by Ashurly, Dorjee at 5:40 am.

  17/05 summit team left C3 at 8:30 pm on 16/05. Conditions and weather were great. They spent one hour on the summit and descended to ABC where they arrived at 1 pm.

  18/05 summit team left C3 at 8 pm on 17/05. He stopped with the Indian lady who was at 7850m who was kneeling down, but left her after 20 minutes and continued. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to ABC at about 7:30 pm.

  Iryna Zisman reached approximately 7800m. She had some health problem and turned back.

  Kernitskiy reached 7600m. He lost motivation and turned back.

  Left BC on 20/05  by heli

  Sherpas: 4

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members and Sherpas.


expid: MAKA23105
peakid: MAKA
year: 2023
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Jonas Salzmann
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Makalu Expedition 2023
countries: Belgium, Germany
approach: Biratnagar->Num->BC
bcdate: 2023-04-20
smtdate: 2023-05-23
termdate: 2023-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to exhaustion
agency: Himalaya Vision (Pioneer Adventure pmt)
campsites:
  BC(20/05,4850m),ABC(22/04,5700m),C1(27/04,6340m),C2(28/04,6600m),C3(12/05/7500m),C4(22/05/7600m),xxx(23/05,8000m)

routememo:
  Approach: Biratnagar->Num

  BC   0/04  (Hillary BC)
  ABC 22/04  5700m
  C1  27/04  6340m
  C2  28/04  6600m
  C3  12/05  7500m
  C4  22/05  7600m
  HPt 23/05  8000m by Hess, Mingmar, Phurba and Sonam.

  The whole team including Salzmann left C4 at 8:30 pm. It had been snowing before and 20cm were on the ground. When Salzmann reached 7700m he decided to turn around with Phurba due to difficult route finding and moving too slowly. He did not have a good feeling. He returned to C4 together with Phurba Sherpa who dropped Salzmann off and went back up to catch up with the rest of the team. When they reached 8000m at 1:30 am, Hess decided to turn back as it just did not feel right. They returned to C4 where they arrived at 3 am. On 23/05 they left C4 at 10 am and descended to ABC where they arrived at 3 pm. Left BC on 24/05 by heli.

  Smets reached C3 on 12/05. He abandoned the expedition due to lack of motivation and disillusion of how expedition life is like today.

  Mingmar Sherpa had a throat infection at ABC and was helivacuated together with Hess and Salzmann on 24/05.

  Sherpas above BC: 3

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


expid: MAKA23106
peakid: MAKA
year: 2023
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Finland
leaders: Anni Penttila
sponsor: Satori Adventures Makalu Expedition 2023
countries: Australia, India, Sweden
smtdate: 2023-05-13
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(13,23/05)
agency: Satori Adventures
routememo:
  Luke Grieve and Kiren Kakka were Satori Adventures clients.

  Raul Helander, Ngima Nuru and Pemba Chhiri were Imagine Nepal clients on the Satori Adventures permit.


expid: MANA23102
peakid: MANA
year: 2023
route1: NE Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Felix Berg
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks (SST) Manaslu Expedition 2023
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 2023-03-27
smtdate: 2023-04-18
smttime: 1530
termdate: 2023-04-20
campsites: BC(27/03,4850m),C1A(31/03,5600m),C2B(06/04,5800m),C2(13/04,6350m),Smt(18/04)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Approach: Heli to BC

  BC  27/03  4850m
  C1  31/03  5600m (lower)
  C1  06/04  5800m (upper)
  C2  13/04  6350m
  Smt 18/04 at 3:30 pm by Berg

  Koenig and Berg acclimatised together and were going to summit together, but Koenig abandoned the expedition on 13/04 as he thought the conditions were too dangerous. His highest point was 6000m.

  On 13/04, Berg continued to C2 and set up his tent and stayed one night. On 14/04 Berg reached 6400m and descended to BC. On 17/04, Berg ascended to his first C2 at 6200m, grabbed his snowshoes and continued to 6350m where he pitched his tent.

  Berg started his summit push from C2 at 1am.The Japanese team was behind him. He changed his snowshoes for crampons at about 6900m and the conditions were perfect from then. Hard snow and ice, perfect for crampons. He ate a sausage at 7450m at around 10am. He crossed blue ice to a plateau and then a bit of an ascent to another plateau, and then a bit up (rocky summit on the right). He climbed a slope of about 45 degrees and turned left on a rocky pyramid (about 6m high). He did not stay very long on the summit as it was very windy and descended immediately. He stopped at the first plateau, and it had started to snow with big thundery clouds above him. At around 4 pm a fully blown snowstorm had started.

  Below C3 he met a big crevasse and he thought that he had to stay there as he could not cross, but he found a way (there was an old track) and managed to cross the crevasse.

  On his descent, he was a bit lost on the mountain and could not find C2. With his tracker and GPS, Koenig helped him find the route again and he arrived at C2 at 10 pm. He boiled some water and collapsed in his tent. He was still a bit traumatized by the descent. Back to BC 19/04. Left BC on 20/04 to Samagaon.

  The team used skies between C1 and BC. They also ascended parts of Naike Peak and reached about 5800m from where they skied down.

  Sherpas above BC: 0

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


  Instgram postings from Berg:

  10/04

  In the last 2 weeks we estimate around 300cm of snow fell.

  Hence in two rotations we only reached C1 at 5800m and touched the icefall at 5900m via an intermediate C1 at 5600m, digging in deep snow. digging in deep snow! Look at snow show and ski trace. 

  We did enjoy a few nice rides, a line just below Base Camp at 4800m height. Let’s hope finally the weather changes.

  15/04

  Summit climb:

  Manaslu, C2 about 6300m reached.

  Last three days were used via C1 to move to a lower C2 (pictures 2,3 at approx 6100m) above the main obstacles of the Manaslu icefall. Joined next beautiful morning by 2 Japanese climbers and their 3 Sherpas we pushed higher to the flatter plateau above the ice fall.


  23/04

  On the plateau with view of Manaslu East and Central.

  Start of climb around 1h night on 18th of April 2023 [photos] chronological]:

  (2) Sunrise near C3
  (3) Snow Shoe tracks
  (4) changed to crampons, view around 8h30 halfway to C4 
  (5) rocky outcrop on plateau
  (6) last clear view to the peaks
  (7) below summit ridge
  (8) during descent

  The weather deteriorated quickly from around noon. First around the summit wind clouds build, and there was nearly no visibility. Cumulus clouds had also started to build up. With so much effort put in and so close to the goal, I head up higher as fast as possible to the rocky outcrop of the main summit. By a 45*-slope below a ridge I reached a big rock boulder in white-out and high winds. That was my Manaslu summit, and I turned around immediately. On the way down I picked my depot (had let a bag behind) and realized that overall the weather was deteriorating, not just a storm on the top. That lead to a descent for survival.

  White-out, 20-30cm of new snow, darkness, track blown… finally at a crevasse where I thought to be stuck, I negotiated out and found a slightly visible track that lead back to C2, reached after 20.5h round-trip. Foremost now I am happy not to be on Manaslu anymore.

  The small weather window from 17-19th April was used perfectly, thus it was on the limit.

  On 19th a team of 5 from Japan and Nepal had followed to C3, probably quite crucially deepening the track enough that I could find it again.

  Matthias who stayed at BC even so he had no intention to climb anymore: He helped me with communication on the descent, a very crucial help.


expid: MANA23103
peakid: MANA
year: 2023
route1: NE Face
nation: Norway
leaders: Kristin Harila
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks (SST) Manaslu Exp 2023 (Kristin Harila)
approach: By heli to BC
bcdate: 2023-06-08
smtdate: 2023-06-10
smttime: 0330
termdate: 2023-06-10
campsites: BC,C1(08/06),C2(09/06),C3(09/10),Smt(10/06)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  The story from Manaslu, 8163m, June 10th:

  Thank you everyone for reading the posts yesterday and for all the support.

  I'm so happy to be done and to be safe after the 9 mountains in Tibet and Nepal. I would never have been able to do this without my sponsors (tagged in the post), my team at home, Lama @tenjin_shepa, all the Sherpas that have been with us, and of course Seven SummiTreks.

  We left from Ktm Thursday morning and I felt really sick, so we had a short rest in BC before we started to climb up to C1. It took us 5h up with really good snow and great weather.

  At 1:30 am Lama and I started to climb up to C2 and it was a really nice climb up. We rested until morning and continued until C3 where we rested more and left for summit push at around 5:30 pm. I was still very tired and in bad shape, so I had put on oxygen in C3.

  It was really amazing conditions on the mountain, I couldn't believe how different it was from the autumn last year. When we came up to C4, I knew it would be much faster. The conditions were unbelievably good and we went so fast up, we reached the summit after 10h!

  The summit was very different than in autumn, a lot of rocks and a lot of wind. We took some pictures in the dark. I was glad that I previously summited during the day so I saw the amazing view before. Then, we climbed down very fast and reached BC at I around 12 pm.

  I arrived in Ktm in a very bad shape and after coming to the hotel, I called @alliepepperadventures. I was not doing well and she convinced me to go to the hospital. I was very dehydrated and tired, so I stayed there and came out yesterday afternoon.

  I'm so tired but happy to have finished 9 mountains in the spring together with Lama. It was a super strong and very good team. It could not have been done without SST. I'm super grateful for everyone who has supported me on and off the mountains. I am tired now, but I am resting before the Pakistan phase and I am so glad we are all safe.

  Kristin Harila


  From Harila FB page:

  Manaslu has been summited!
  ©: June 10th, approx. 03:30am (tbc)

  Congratulations to Kristin and Lama for
  successfully summiting Manaslu. This is the 9th
  mountain they climb together in Kristin's 2023
  project. This marks the end of the Tibet and
  Nepal phase, but the start of the upcoming
  Pakistan phase, with five mountains left.

  Kristin is grateful for the support of her team,
  sponsors, and supporters who made this
  achievement possible. Her journey to break the
  record continues, and we can't wait to see what
  she accomplishes next.

  Big round of applause for all of those who have
  been on the summit with Kristin:

  @SevenSummitTreks
  Tenjen (Lama) Sherpa @tenjin.sherpa.752
  Pasang Nurbu Sherpa
  Chhangba Sherpa
  Kaji Sherpa
  Nima Dorchi Sherpa
  Sonam Tashi Sherpa

  Here are the time stamps in Nepal time for the Manaslu climb:

  - From BC     (June 8th at 12:06) to Camp 1 (June 8th at 17:45)
  - From Camp 1 (June 9th at 01:27) to Camp 2 (June 9th at 03:52)
  - From Camp 2 (June 9th at 07:46) to Camp 3 (June 9th at 13:32)
  - From Camp 3 (June 9th at 17:25) to Summit (June 10th at approx. 03:30)


expid: NUPT23101
peakid: NUPT
year: 2023
route1: N Face
nation: USA
leaders: Garrett Madison
sponsor: Madison Mountaineering Nuptse Expedition 2023
countries: Estonia, Germany
approach: Pangboche->Lobuje->Ever BC
bcdate: 2023-04-13
smtdate: 2023-05-08
smttime: 1245
termdate: 2023-05-28
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-231-06) and Lhotse (LHOT-231-04)
campsites: BC(13/04,5350m),C1(24/04,5800m),C2(25/04,6440m),C3(21/05,6800m),Smt(08/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
primid: EVER23106
routememo:
  Approach: Pangboche, Lobuje, Ever BC

  BC  13/04  5350m
  C1  24/04  5800m
  C2  25/04  6440m
  C3  07/05  6800m

  Summit on 08/05 by Madison, Melesk, Draves, Ang Phurba, Dawa Tenji, Lhakpa, Ming Dorje at 12:45 pm.

  Summit team left 12:30 am. The Sherpas had fixed to about 7600m the day before and during the climb the Sherpas fixed the rest of the summit. From the top of the ridge they went to the real summit individually (about 30m) for pics and descended again after about one hour. They abseiled down and descended to C2. On 09/05 returned to BC.

  Anna Ott joined the team, but turned back after about 1 hour as it was too much.


expid: NUPT23102
peakid: NUPT
year: 2023
route1: N Face
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Christiaan De Jong, Prakash Sherpa
sponsor: Active Climber Pumori-Nuptse Expedition 2023
countries: Nepal
approach: Island Peak
bcdate: 2023-04-27
smtdate: 2023-05-21
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2023-05-24
othersmts: Summited Pumori (PUMO-231-02)
campsites: EBC(27/04,5350m),C2(19/05,6400m),C3(20/05,6850m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Expedition Himalaya (Mountain Experience pmt)
routememo:
  Approach: Island Peak

  Pumori:

  EBC   27/04  5350m
  EC1   03/05
  EC2   04/05  6400m
  EC3   05/05  7050m

  PABC  11/05  5700m
  PC2	  12/05  6500m
  Smt   13/05  by Prakash Sherpa, De Jong at 7:07 am.

  De Jong acclimatised with Mateo Isaza from Colombia and on 06/05 he touched 7200m and descended to C2. Back to BC on 07/05.

  On on 11/05, they arrived at ABC at 3 pm and left ABC for C2 at 11 pm. Conditions were good, on the upper section the incline was quite steep – sections up to 90 degrees. They climbed for about 9 hours. They used the fixed lines placed by Dawa Steven’s team. It was very windy up on the ridge, where C2 was.

  On summit day, they left C2 at about midnight. They placed only one screw and then climbed unprotected. Weather was rough but conditions were good. They used two ice tools. They circumvented a vertical wall at about 7000m to the left. Just before the summit, there was a huge crevasse, but they could circumvent it. When they reached the summit, it was very cold and windy.

  On the descent they down-climbed most of the way, but had three abseils. They returned to EBC where they arrived at 5 pm.


  Nuptse:

  C2  19/05  6400m
  C3  20/05  6850m
  Smt 21/05  by Prakash Sherpa, De Jong at 8 am.

  Team left C3 at 8:30 pm on 20/05. It was snowing when they left. The conditions were good. Very mixed. Partially blue ice, partially deep snow. The ridge was very challenging and sugar snow. They stayed about 5 min on the real summit as it was very uncomfortable and then they moved to a lower point. They rappelled down or arm wrapped and descended to C3, where they had a rest. It was very hot and when they descended to C2 they had a white-out so crossing the crevasses was tricky.

  On 22/05 back to BC. Left BC on 24/05 by heli.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


  From Prakash, 15 May 2023:

  Alpine-style climbing on Pumori is a challenging and rewarding experience that requires a high level of skill, experience, and physical fitness. It is not recommended for beginners or inexperienced climbers, but for those who are up for the challenge, it can be an unforgettable adventure.

  The climb starts from the high camp at 5650meters and involves ascending steep ice and rock walls, traversing crevasses, and navigating through challenging terrain. Climbers need to be skilled in ice and rock climbing, as well as in using crampons and ice axes.


expid: PUMO23101
peakid: PUMO
year: 2023
route1: S Face-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Shinji Tamura
sponsor: Active Mountain Pumori Expedition 2023
approach: Khumjung->Phortse->Lobuje
bcdate: 2023-05-13
smtdate: 2023-05-13
termdate: 2023-05-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to route difficulty for client
campsites: EverBC(13/05,5350m),C1(16/05,6100m),xxx(17/05,6300m)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  Inoue and Obata were clients of Shinji Tamura. Presume other Japanese were clients of Hiroyuki Kuraoka.


  Report from Shinji Tamura;

  Approach: Khumjung, Phortse, Lobuje

  EBC  13/05  5350m (Everest BC)
  C1   16/05  6100m (Pumori C1)
  Hpt  17/05  6300m by Inoue, Namgyal Sherpa, Rita Sherpa.

  When they reached their high point the fixed rope, which was put in by Dawa Steven a few weeks before, was frozen into the ice. There was quite a bit of fresh snow. They decided to abandon the expedition as there was no fixed rope and the mountain would have been too technical for Inoue.

  They descended to Everest Base Camp the same day and left BC on 18/05 walking to Pheriche

  Sherpas above BC: 2

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C1 to high point to C1 by Inoue.


expid: PUMO23103
peakid: PUMO
year: 2023
route1: S Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Dawa Steven Sherpa
sponsor: Asian Trekking Pumori Expedition 2023
countries: Greece, Sweden, UK
smtdate: 2023-05-07
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to bad conditions (ropes buried)
campsites: EBC(5350m),HC(5600m),C1(6200m),C2(6500m),xxx(07/05,6600m)
agency: Asian Trekking (Mountain Experience pmt)
routememo:
  From Adrian Hayes Instagram account:

  Apr 23: After a few days’ rest at Everest Base Camp, heading up Pumori tomorrow on first rotation - up to Camp 1 to sleep the night, touch Camp 2 the following day and back to BC. Moderate snowfall the last few days have made to climb a bit slower / tricker but fingers crossed for a sound rotation. Picture shows approx route and camps - High Camp: 5600m, Camp 1: 6200m, Camp 3: 6500m.

  Apr 27: Planned rotation to Camp 1 on Pumori stalled by poor weather and conditions a few days ago, thus turned back at 5950 metres. Stayed the night at High Camp (5600m) and afforded a superb view over the Khumbu. Now at Base Camp waiting for the all important weather window.

  May 5: After a month in Nepal Pumori final summit push starts today… Heading up to High Camp this afternoon; tomorrow a long climb to Camp 2, as Camp 1 somewhat unstable; and a summit attempt on Sunday. Some vertical Seracs to climb before Camp 2 and, from pictures, a lot of crevasses up to the summit seem to be the main challenge, but we have a strong team and a good weather window the next few days so fingers crossed. Alas no Coronation viewing for us but will fly a Union Jack tomorrow.

  May 8: Pumori 2023 expedition abandoned yesterday at 6600m after an avalanche the last few days had buried 400m of rope stashed at Camp 2 needed for the final sunmit ridge. Despite that, accorded the most spectacular and unique views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and surrounding giants in Nepal and Tibet. The 1300m climb up to Camp 2 showed just why Pumori is rarely summited and considered way harder than Everest - deep snow, blue ice, very technical and very steep, including three overhanging ice walls. Now safely back at Base Camp, many thanks for all the comments, likes and support. ‘The mountains will always be there; the trick is to make sure you are too!’


expid: PYRM39201
peakid: PYRM
year: 1939
route1: NE Ridge from Langpo La
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Ernst Grob
countries: Germany
approach: Sikkim->Zemu Glacier
smtdate: 1939-08-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to route difficulty
campsites: C1(15/08,6100m),C2(17/08,6400m),xxx
primid: NEPA39101
othersmts:
  Climbed Kirat Chuli (KIRA-391-01), Nepal Peak (NEPA-391-01) and Langpo South (LNPS-392-01); attempted Gimmigela Chuli (GIMM-392-01)


expid: RATC23101
peakid: RATC
year: 2023
route1: W Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Brad Clement
sponsor: American Ratna Chuli Expedition 2023
approach: Koto->Phu->BC
bcdate: 2023-05-04
smtdate: 2023-05-16
termdate: 2023-05-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to technical route difficulties
campsites: BC(04/05,4756m),C1(07/05,5640m),C2(15/05,6110m),xxx(16/05,6400m)
agency: Real Himalaya
routememo:
  Approach: Phu

  BC  04/05  4756m
  C1  07/05  5640m (Sherpas went up to C1)
  C1  09/05  5640m (Members went up to C1)
  C2  15/05  6110m
  HPt 16/05  6400m by Kusang, Dhan Kumar, Dapasang and Namgyal.

  The former Japanese camp which would have been another 3 hours up had no more water, so they put BC on a pasture. That was about 5 hours out of Phu on a yak trail. On 06/05 Puja. On 09/05 members moved to C1 on a glacial undulating moraine (it took the members between 5 and 8 hours).

  On 11/05, members and Sherpas moved up to C2, but weather was not good and they moved up a bit and went back to BC.

  They spent 4 days at BC, and on 13/05 they left BC again hoping to go for the summit on this rotation.

  The Sherpas went ahead to fix the rope on Seto Chuli, which has to be climbed to get to the West Face on Ratna Chuli. The climb was quite technical. Blue ice combined with sugar snow. Bad footing and no substance for an ice screw. They had been trying to get higher for 5 or 6 hours. When the Sherpas came down, the team decided that the mountain was too technical and that it was not doable.

  Blanchette reached 6280m. When they had decided to abandon the expedition, she just wanted to get a bit higher and Kusang took her.

  Klinke, Clement and Schwartz reached C2 on 15/05.

  Bartlett got to just above C1 at 5762. She was not doing well and decided to abandon.

  Parsons reached C1, but decided that he was not in the right shape to continue.

  On 16/05 Klinke and Kusang descended to BC; other members stayed at C1 for another night.

  Note on climate change:

  Between C1 and C2 there was a steep headwall which the Sherpas fixed (the two Tamang brothers were there in 2008); however, it was quite flat when they went there in 2008.

  The other section was above 6000m which was never been fixed before. However, when the team went there it was steep (60 to 80 degrees), blue ice and slightly overhanging.

  Left BC on 19/05 to Chyaku and then to Khote.

  Sherpas:
    Kusang Sherpa
    Kitap Singh Tamang
    Dhan Kumar Tamang
    Dapasang Sherpa
    Namgyal Sherpa

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


expid: TAKP23201
peakid: TAKP
year: 2023
route1: W Ridge?
nation: Japan
leaders: Kiyoshi Ishii
sponsor: Club Yeti Mount Takphu Expedition 2023
ascent1: 2nd
approach: Simikot->Dharapani->Salli Khola->Dharmasala->Nyula La->Sakyakhola->BC
bcdate: 2023-06-25
smtdate: 2023-07-01
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2023-08-01
campsites: BC(25/06,5200m),C1(30/06,5800m),Smt(01/07)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Approach march route :

  18 June: Departure from KTM
  19 June: Nepalganj-Simikot
  20 June: Simikot-Dharapani
  21 June: Dharapani-Salli Khola
  22 June: Salli Khola-Dharmasala
  23 June: Dharmasala-Nyula Pass
  24 June: Nyula Pass-Sakyakhola
  25 June: Sakyakhola-Base camp

  BC  25/06  5200m
  C1  30/06  5800m
  Smt 01/07  by Yoshio Kitajima, Phura Chhiri Sherpa, Mingmar Sherpa.

  Kitajima and Sherpas on the summit at 10 am on 01/07. Stayed on the summit for 10 minutes. They had started from C1 at 5 am in the morning. Back to BC at between 4-5 pm.

  Ishii stayed in BC, he never intended to climb.

  Agency claims first ascent, but HD shows summit in 2018.

  Climbing route: “normal, standard route”

  Oxygen: Nnot taken, not used.

  Members:
    Ishii Kiyoshi (BC)
    Yoshio Kitajima (S)

  Hired:
    Mingmar Sherpa from Sotang, Solukhumbu (S)
    Phura Chhiri Sherpa from Lokim, Solukhumbu (S)


expid: TENR23101
peakid: TENR
year: 2023
route1: S Ridge
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Ales Cesen
sponsor: DHA Slovenian Tengi Ragi Tau Expedition 2023
approach: Lukla->Namche->Thami->Tengbo->BC
bcdate: 2023-04-18
smtdate: 2023-04-26
termdate: 2023-05-08
termnote: Abandoned at 5700m due to bad weasther and lack of time to extend the expedition
campsites: BC(18/04,4307m),C1(23/04,5300m),C2(26/04,5700m),xxx
agency: Dream Himalaya Adventures
routememo:
  Approach: Lukla, Namche, Thame, Tengbo

  BC  18/04  4307m (at Tengbo)
  C1  21/04  5300m below Tashi Laptsa
  C2  26/04  5700m below Tashi Laptsa east side

  On 19/04 team ascended to 5300m on Tashi Laptsa to acclimatise and descended to Tengbo the same day.

  On 21/04 teanm ascended to 5300m, set up a tent and stayed the night. In the afternoon, a lot of precipitation left about 30cm of fresh snow. They had gone up in their running shoes, but due to the snow they wore the boots on the descent. Initially they wanted to leave them at their camp with their other gear (sleeping bags, mattresses, crampons, ice axes, down jackets, rope, ice screws, belaying plates, prusick slings, gas, stove). On 22/04 they descended to Tengbo.

  They rested in Tengbo for a few days. On 26/04 they went back up to their tent at 5300m but when they opened the tent, they noticed that some of their gear was gone, however, not all of it, which was interesting.

  Items that were stolen from the camp at 5300m:
    Double rope 60m
    Crampons
    1 harness
    3 ice screws
    Abalakov hooks
    Slings
    Pully
    1 down jacket
    1 pair of trousers
    Belay devices
    Carabiners

  After they noticed their loss, they packed up the tent and ascended to about 20m below the Tashi Laptsa Pass and pitched their tent at 5700m. On 27/04, they packed everything and descended to 5300m where they hid their equipment behind a big boulder. The team descended to Tengbo.

  On 28/04 they walked to Namche to replace their equipment. They found one double climbing rope in Namche and other essential equipment things. As Cuder got food poisoning, they and stayed in Namche for three nights.

  On 01/05 they went back to Tengbo but the weather was bad. A lot of precipitation and snow. On 05/05 they decided to abandon the climb as they could not extend their stay in Nepal.

  On 07/05 they went back to 5300m to pack their gear. Very windy day. On 08/05 they went to Namche, on 09/05 to Lukla.

  The route can be attempted from the east or the west side of the Tashi Laptsa. Team got a good glimpse of the route. It was dry, but not as dry as they expected. They might try again, but probably in autumn.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used

  Fixed rope: None

  Climb abandoned	05/05 due to bad weather.


expid: TUTS23101
peakid: TUTS
year: 2023
route1: E Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Benjamin Zoerer
sponsor: Gipfelsturmer Expedition 2023
approach: Jeep to Num, trekked to BC
bcdate: 2023-04-20
smtdate: 2023-05-12
termdate: 2023-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 5494m due to Egger's persistent heavy cough
othersmts: Summited Shershon Lo (6112m)
campsites: BC(20/04,4564m),xxx(12/05,5494m)
agency: Sherpa Adventure Travel
routememo:
  BC  20/04  4564m (south to Shershon lake)

  HPt of TUTSE on 12 May at 5494m, start of the East Ridge both members.

  Climb of TUTSE abandoned on 12 May due to Egger’s persistant heavy cough.

  Summit (of Shershon Lho) on 16 May by Benjamin Zoerer

  Routes: E ridge of TUTSE; NW Face to W-SW Ridge of Shershon Lho (6112m).       

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used

  Records: New route on the NW Face of Shershon Lho (6112m), and first known ascent of its NW Face.

  Accidents: Egon Egger had a very heavy cough during the expedition, couldn’t get rid off it.
   

  First acclimatized by trekking the Everest BC trail accompanied by the father of Egon Egger. Then the team went back to KTM for a while. There it took longer than expected to organize the second part of the expedition, in particular for obtaining permits. All-in-all, team eventually stayed in KTM for a week.

  Approach: Zoerer and Egger first expected to fly to Tumlingtar, but the weather was not good, so they spent one more day in Kathmandu. Instead of using a plane, on the day after (11 April) they made a 2-day jeep trip (5 people in a small jeep with all their gear) to reach Tumlingtar on the 12 April. On 13 April they went further to Num. From there they got some porters and after a week of trekking they reached BC on April 20, with Zoerer being sick a bit.

  Having its BC located near Shershon Lake, the team could have a direct view of its objective, the North Face of Tutse. Right part of the latter was serac-avalanching all time, days and nights. The left of the face, bisected by a subsidiary E Pillar within the face, was looking safer regarding objective risks, despite being exposed to potential snow spindrifts/avalanches coming from the final snowy slopes; that face was anyway to be found in very dry condition. The duet thus took time for assessing possible options in the face without eventually finding a satisfying solution. “Snow is the big problem on this mountain” says Zoerer. They would try for the East Ridge eventually, already attempted in 2003 by a Denmark expedition.

  Afterwards, Zoerer considers that for their first big expedition, the duet had focused a lot on its primarily objective, but has forgotten to anticipate on the various acclimatization possibilities lying on the peaks around. In addition, they would have to wait for 3 weeks at BC in bad weather. In particular the 1st and 2nd of May, a lot of snow would fall around, with 20-30 cms for the sole BC.

  For its first acclimatization trip, the duet aimed to go to the Sherpani Col. They went up to Makalu BC, discussing with trekkers also aiming for it, but conditions were just not appropriate: the snowfall of the beginning of May would prevent them trying so. So they just did reconnaissance around for future trips, simply enjoying nature. Back to their BC, they took two more rest days.

  For its second acclimatization trip, the duet first walked up northwards to a lake located at 5196m, southeast to the start of the South Ridge of Shershon Northwest/SHNW (6682m, route of first ascent by the way), nearby which they slept. Not far east from the lake, they found the fresh remnants of an expedition, afoot of the NW flank of both Shershons/Yaupas. On the 7th of May, they hiked up a further 300m to 400m until reaching the moraine at 5500m, sleeping there. On the 8th of May, they slept at 5795m (Finn Map, flat part of the ridge), with only Zoerer walking a hundred meters above their bivouac on the ridge. On the 9th of May, after a strong wind begun to hit them during the night, in early morning they went back down in 3 hours to BC, where they had a few rest days.

  Summit attempt on Tutse: as some good weather period was expected (during which most of the summit assaults would be led on the big peaks in fact), their weather guide advised them to start for Tutse.

  The problem so far had been Egger’s health: already at BC, he was coughing bad all time, with lots of fluids, spitting sometimes. At a stage, he went back down to Yangla (knowing Makalu BC valley is a rather remote area, with a 4000m+ col to pass in order to go down), spending 3 or 4 days there. Once he had recovered a bit, he went back to BC. But after that, during the acclimatization trip to Shershon NW, he couldn’t follow above the upper bivouac. Despite his bad shape, Egger anyway said “lets’ try”!

  On the 12th May, the duet started for Tutse’s East Ridge at 2 am. During the approach, which mainly consists in walking gentle snow slopes, snow conditions were very bad, with Zoerer having to break trail maximum up to the knees in very inconsistent snow. As they were reaching the foot of the East Ridge the slope increased a bit to 40° slopes, being very prone to avalanche. They reached the footstep of the ridge at 7:25 am, at 5494m. Above them, the ridge looked less snowy (blown by the wind), with just a windslab at the start of the ridge. Crux for the day would be the circa 200m rock band standing above them. On the day after they would need to negotiate the upper sharp and corniced ridge. But Egger being still in a bad shape the team had no chance for an attempt, so they turned back down to BC.

  For Egger the expedition was over. One more week was left before the porters would arrive and weather was still good. After resting 2 days, Zoerer made an ascent on Shershon Lho in a 24-hour round trip from BC.

  Solo ascent of Shershon Lho :

  On 15th May, Zoerer slept at the 5196m lake.

  On 16th May, Zoerer climbed Yaupa Lho solo by a new line on the NW Face. For the gear, he had taken standard light equipment for a light bag with a 60m/6mm dynemma rope (just for abseiling), no pitons, 2 ice screws and a few carabiners. Crux would size about 10-15m in bad ice (WI 3,4), topped by a short overhanging section in se avoidable thanks to some lateral help. Rest of the difficulties were sustained 50-70° slopes. All-in-all a 1000m high gain from the tent, for an intrinsically proper 500m sustained line in the range of Alps grade D.

  The line exited on the WSW Ridge (1954 line), the latter by which Zoerer reached the top. Shershon Lho is 6112m (Finn Map), Zoerer could read 6110m on his watch. He stayed a few minutes on top, making pictures, contacting Egger by walkie-talkie. Zoerer then went back down to his tent via the 1954 line. The latter would need no abseils at all, just a few buttresses to downclimb/scramble (up to grade UIAA 3).

  Zoerer had started at 2:30 am from his camp, summited at 7:23 am and was back to his camp 2 hours later, all-in-all a 9-hour round trip from his tent. It had been a good choice to start early since clouds were very thick already when he was back to the tent at 9:30 am; previously, half the ridge on descent, he had already remarked that clouds were getting in. On the same day he was back to BC at noon. “The cherry atop of the cake” says Zoerer.

  During their remaining days at BC, in good weather they just made some washing, drying everything. Then on the 20 May they left BC, “still very good friends”.

  Zoerer will be back to try to attempt again the E Ridge line of Tutse, knowing exactly where they have to go. He warns also that direct access to Saldim West from southwest is tricky, with a 400m crumby walls to be conturned from southeast.


expid: AMAD23307
peakid: AMAD
year: 2023
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Chile
leaders: Catalina Rios Garcia
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks (SST) Ama Dablam Expedition 2023 (Team 2)
smtdate: 2023-10-25
campsites: BC,C1,C2,Smt(28,30-31/10,01,03/11)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
countries:
  Afghanistan, Canada, Costa Rica, France, Hungary, Iran, Kyrgyz Republic, Mexico, Netherlands, UK, USA


expid: AMAD23315
peakid: AMAD
year: 2023
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Bosnia-Herzegovina
leaders: Naida Avdic
sponsor: Snowy Horizon Ama Dablam Expedition 2023 (Team 2)
smtdate: 2023-10-29
campsites: BC,C1,C2,Smt(29,31/10,02,07,16,18,27,29/11)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
countries:
  Australia, Bangladesh, Canada, Croatia, Estonia, France, India, Poland, Russia, S Africa, S Korea, Serbia, Spain, UK, Ukraine, USA


expid: AMAD23321
peakid: AMAD
year: 2023
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Mathis Dumas
sponsor: Himalaya Vision International Ama Dablam Expedition 2023
countries: Argentina, Canada, Italy, Japan, Switzerland
smtdate: 2023-10-20
smttime: 0959
campsites: BC,C1,C2,Smt(20-21/10,07/11)
agency: Himalaya Vision
routememo:
  From the Himalayan Times - 31 Oct 2023

  An International Mountain Guide from France has set the speed record scaling Mt Ama Dablam in just less than 7 hours.

  "Matheo Baptiste Jacquemoud completed Ama Dablam climb from the base camp to base camp in 6hr 23 min 24 sec on October 20," said Subash Shrestha from Himalaya Vision Treks.

  The IFMGA Guide started his climb from the base camp and reached the top of 6812-metre peak at 9:59 am, he said. According to him, this is the fastest ever base camp to base camp climb on Ama Dablam.


expid: AMAD23325
peakid: AMAD
year: 2023
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Paul Spackman
sponsor: SummitClimb Ama Dablam Expedition 2023
countries: India, Ireland, Portugal, Spain, Sweden, UK
bcdate: 2023-11-07
smtdate: 2023-11-14
smttime: 0637
campsites: BC(07/11,4600m),C1(11/11),C2(13/11),Smt(14,16,19,30/11)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  From Brooke Wiley (SummitClimb.com):

  On the morning of the 12th Jason and I moved from basecamp to Camp 1, about 4 and a half miles with 4500 feet of vertical gain. There were essentially no technical elements to this movement, just a long/steep hike. We found the tent we had rented from the tea house, settled in, and focused on quick recovery and rehydration. We were able to stash some gear that we wouldn’t need to take any higher at the tent (trekking poles, 3 seasons boots, etc). We started the next day at about 8:00 am and pushed through the very technical Yellow Tower to Camp 2. The Yellow Tower had about 3 pitches of true exposed vertical rock climbing at about 5.7 level. The whole route was well established and well anchored fixed lines. Going from Camp 2 to Camp 3 we passed through what we felt like was the most dangerous part of the climb, The Grey Couloir on the Grey Tower, due to lots of loose rock and rock fall caused by other climbers. We mitigated this by establishing clear communication with the other climbing groups and moving through with no overhead climbers. We got to Camp 3, around 3 in the afternoon and got prepped for the next mornings summit push. We headed for the summit at about 4 am and were met by the other Summit Climb teams who had stayed at Camp 2. Using the fixed lines we pushed through the semi vertical snow portions along the side of the Dablam and summited just before 8 o’clock. It was a a perfect day, the weather was amazing and the only traffic on the mountain was the Summit Climb teams (total of 6 of us). The summit felt surreal, absolute elation mixed with disbelief. Even sitting here writing this a few days later, I’m still wrapping my mind around it. After quick pictures, we pushed through the descent and made it back to the basecamp tea house by evening time.


  Note from Paul Spackman:

  Jason was just behind Par Linden and summited at around 06:50-07:00, then Jason waited on the summit for Brooke who arrived at around 08:00. Took their summit photo together and then descended together. I remember passing Jason and Brooke together coming down as I was going up the final fixed line.


expid: AMAD23336
peakid: AMAD
year: 2023
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Jorge Egocheaga Rodriguez
sponsor: Sherpa Himalayan Wanderer Ama Dablam Expedition 2023
countries: Belgium, Romania
smtdate: 2023-11-11
smttime: 0900
campsites: BC,C1,C2,Smt(11,16/11)
agency: Himalayan Wanderer
routememo:
  From Himalayan Wanderer Treks & Expedition FB page:

  Due to his frequent handwork, dedication and immaculate love toward mountaineering, Egocheaga succeeded the hardest challenge of climbing the Ama Dablam (6812m) within eight hours. On the November 16, 2023, Thursday, he started to climb in early morning at 2:00 am from Pangboche and successfully completed summit in 9:00 am. He set the new record of fastest person to summit the Ama Dablam. Nevertheless, Jorge Dai says, he does not did it to make any records, he look it as a challenge. His compassionate affection for mountains, self-concentration and focus let this thing happen. Mountains boost his strength and helps him to be more focus and confident in life.


expid: AMAD23339
peakid: AMAD
year: 2023
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: James Holding
sponsor: Jagged Globe Ama Dablam Expedition 2023
countries: Canada, Ireland
bcdate: 2023-11-10
smtdate: 2023-11-26
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2023-11-28
campsites: BC(01/11,4600m),ABC(15/11,5400m),C1(17/11,5800m),C2(25/11,6000m),Smt(26/11)
agency: Nepal Skyline
routememo:
  Summit team left high camp at 1 am on 26 Nov, summited at 10 am, stayed 20 minutes, then descended to C2 between 17:30 and 18:30 pm. Dry rock on the Grey Tower, good and firm snow conditions on the Grey Couloir. Well tracked and stable conditions up the headwall, with light winds.


expid: ANN123401
peakid: ANN1
year: 2023
route1: N Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Alex Txikon
sponsor: Alex Txikon Annapurna Winter Expedition 2023
countries: Brazil, Italy
bcdate: 2023-12-23
smtdate: 2023-12-26
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to loss of climbing gear into a crevasse at C3
campsites: BC(23/12,4200m),C1(24/12,5000m),C2(25/12,5600m),C3(26/12,6400m),xxx
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Climbing gear stored at C3 disappeared into a crevasse. The loss of gear force the cancellation of the expedition.


expid: ANN423301
peakid: ANN4
year: 2023
route1: NW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Jacob Ready
sponsor: Namas Annapurna IV Expedition Autumn 2023
countries: Germany, Nepal, Netherlands, UK
approach: Marshyangdi->Humde->BC
bcdate: 2023-09-09
smtdate: 2023-09-29
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2023-10-01
campsites: BC(09/09,4800m),C1(13/09,5400m),C2(14/09,6100m),C3(15/09,6500m),Smt(29/09)
agency: Namas Adventure (Snowy Horizon Treks pmt)
routememo:
  From Sam Butler:

  Summit team left C3 at 1:15 am on 29 Sept, summited at 11:30 am-12:15 pm, stayed 30 minutes, then descended to C3 at 18:30 pm.

  Shin-deep snow from C3, high winds at the plateau below the second summit, clear sky and windy on the summit. White-out soon after summiting, with snow and fog making navigation back below 7000m difficult. Very slow descent. 18 hr total summit day.


  From Simone Molter:

  1st summit push on 21 Sept alone without other members, only with small Sherpa team to find and explore the route and without supplemental oxygen. Abandoned because of Sherpa/company reason. Started climbing late at 4 am, arrived at almost 7300m at 2 pm. Chief Sherpa decided to turn around.

  2nd summit push: fullmoon night, deep snow, strong wind coming up in the morning and above 7000m. Mostly no fixed ropes. Climbing short-roped or alone (myself) clear sky at the summit. 30 minutes later white-out and and a snowstorm in the descent. Arrived back at C3 around 8 pm in the evening. Molter on second summit attempt had no personal Sherpa support.

  Ronald Pieters and his Sherpa Paljor did not reach the summit because of the lack of oxygen.

  Oxygen: Ronald Pieters from C3, the other members after approx. 1 hour later, Molter started at 6700m because of better acclimatisation and from the reason, that the group was faster with using oxygen and she was climbing without Sherpa, so she want to hold the pace with the other climbers. All Sherpas did not use supplemental oxygen.


expid: CHND23301
peakid: CHND
year: 2023
nation: UK
leaders: Julian Freeman-Attwood
sponsor: British Chandi Himal Expedition 2023
approach: Simikot->Dojam Khola->Chuwa Khola->BC
bcdate: 2023-10-09
othersmts: Climbed Ganglung Kangri 2 (6182m) on 16 Oct
campsites: BC(09/10,5050m),ABC(11/10,5550m),C1(14/10,5750m),Smt.Ganglung-Kangri-2(16/10,6182m)
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
routememo:
  The Report of the British Ganglung Kangri 2 Expedition 2023

  2019, 2022 and 2023 Expeditions.

  All access to these source mountains is politically impossible from Tibet and we decided to find a way from the Nepal side via an unnamed glacier which we found in 2019. Julian and Nick Colton became the first onto the Angsi glacier but failed to cross it and access the mountain.

  We also tried to access from the west side in 2022 (via Chandi peak) but very severe snowfall all across Nepal and India during that post monsoon, put paid to that attempt.

  So, in 2023 we decided to go back, again in post monsoon period, to the 2019 base camp and push forward what we had already found out from there. This time Nick Colton and I were joined by Jim Lowther and Jim Fotheringham, both seasoned climbers and greater range expeditioners from the Lake District.


  Fotheringhim and Lowther climbed Ganglung Kangri 2, a 6182m peak east of Chandi Himal on the Tibetan border, on 16 Oct.


expid: CHOL23301
peakid: CHOL
year: 2023
route1: SW Ridge
route2: W Face (Up), SW Ridge (down)
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Zdenek Hak
sponsor: Czech Cholatse Expedition 2023
approach: Namche Bazar->Phortse->Cholatse BC
bcdate: 2023-11-01
smtdate: 2023-11-03
smttime: 1730
termdate: 2023-11-04
campsites: BC(01/11,49800m),C1(02/11,5400m),Smt(03/11)
agency: 14 Summits
routememo:
  Approach: Namche Bazar, Phortse, Cholatse BC

  BC  01/11  4900m
  C1  02/11  5400m
  Smt 03/11  by both members at 5:30 pm

  Route; Direct West Face up, SW Ridge down

  Oxygen: not taken, not used

  Records: 1st ascent of the West Face direct

  Other peaks: LOBE, CHOL (attempt normal route, not recorded), KGRI (no climb)

  Guides:
    Zdenek Hak
    Radoslav Groh
  Clients:
    Lenka Erlebachova
    Miroslav Joudal
    Radek Pacner
    Jan Ros

  Lobuche East, first acclimatization peak guiding:
    Both Hak and Groh guided a 4 clients group, summiting on 20 Oct.

  Cholatse, second acclimatization peak guiding:
    Same guides led 4-client group for Cholatse normal route (SW Ridge).

  No summit, because on the 25 Oct, one member (Jan Ros) died by a fall. Once the evacuation of the body was done, the group was back to KTM for 5 days. Here both guides decided to cancel their expedition for Khangri Shar, head goal of the expedition, but after a while they decided spontaneously to go back for Cholatse.

  New route on Cholatse:

  Both Zdenek Hak and Radoslav Groh used no porters, carrying just a backpack each of them, walking and climbing all on their own.

  31 Oct: KTM to Lukla to Namche by helicopter. Duet walked to Phortse.

  01 Nov: Phortse to Cholatse BC (circa 4750m), then a bit further up to their 4900m BC.

  02 Nov: from their BC at 4900m, duet climbed the first 6 pitches, then slept below a great serac at circa 5400m.

  03 Nov: the team started early at 2 am, climbed during all night and day, reached the summit of the face at 5 pm (a circa 15 hr continuous one-push). Then it continued to the summit, reached at 5:30 pm. The same day it went down to C1 (5600m) of the normal route (SW Ridge) for sleeping.

  04 Nov: duet went back to its BC then continued to Phortse.

  Route difficulties and key descriptions:

  Consists mainly in ice difficulties (WI4+), with 60 to 80° slopes generally (a little bit more, at 90° sometimes). Some mixed climbing difficulties up to M4/M5. 
  Difficulty: ED.

  No name given to the route, yet it could be named “JUST one solution”! In fact, there’s no possibility for bivouac or rest on the face, because of falling stones and seracs risk. Thus, one needs to climb the line in a day push.

  Kangri Shar: head goal abandoned after the accident. No climb there.


expid: CHOP23301
peakid: CHOP
year: 2023
route1: W Face-S Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: David Goettler
sponsor: Himalaya Vision Cho Polu Expedition 2023
countries: France
approach: Chhukung Valley
bcdate: 2023-09-21
smtdate: 2023-10-09
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2023-10-11
campsites: BC(21/09),Biv(08/10),Smt(09/10)
agency: Himalaya Vision
routememo:
  Team had no BC. They used the Kangri Resort Lodge in Chhukung as their BC, arriving on 21st of Sept. Team first climbed Island Peak on 29 Sept via the N Ridge approaching the North Col from the Lhotse Glacier.

  For Cho Polu, team  started from Chhukung via the normal BC further to the start of the glacier traverse towards Cho Polu, where they had a bivy camp (no tents, just sleeping bag and mattress) on 8 Oct. From this bivy they started at 2 am and crossed the glacier in 1.5 hrs to the start of the West Face of Cho Polu. From there it took 10 hrs to the top via the West Face and the South Ridge.

  First climbed with some zig-zagging to the first snow on the West Face; after straight up until shortly below the South Ridge and here under some rocks traversing towards north to reach the South Ridge. Once arrived at the South Ridge along it to the summit. Summited 9 Oct around early afternoon.

  On the way down they decided to wait for safe conditions for the descent and made a snow cave at 6400m on the South Ridge/Col. From the summit to here just down climbing in around 1 hr from the summit. Back at Chhukung the following day, on the 10 Oct.


expid: CHOY23302
peakid: CHOY
year: 2023
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Mingma Sherpa
sponsor: Climbalaya Cho Oyu Expedition 2023
countries: Georgia, USA
smtdate: 2023-09-29
smttime: 1225
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,Smt(29/09,01,07/10)
agency: Climbalaya
routememo:
  Zurab Kvestadze and Pemba Tamang also summited on 7 Oct 12:45 (CST). Kvestadze is normally a client of Satori Adventures.


expid: CHOY23304
peakid: CHOY
year: 2023
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Benedikt Boehm
sponsor: Dynafit Cho Oyu Speed Expedition 2023
countries: Nepal
bcdate: 2023-09-25
smtdate: 2023-10-07
smttime: 0920
campsites: BC(25/09,4900m),ABC(26/09,5660m),C1(30/09,6400m),C2(01/10,7200m),Smt(07/10)
routememo:
  Acclimatization for speed climb:
    27/09 tagged and set up C1
    30/09-01/10 at C1
    01/10-02/10 at C2
    02/10 ascended 100m from C2 bit turned back due to bad weather
    Stayed at ABC till summit push on 06/10

  Speed ascent:
    Start ABC (5660m) on 06/10 at 23:00 (CST)
    Summit at 11:35 am (CST) on 07/10
    Returned BC 5 pm (Prakash) 6 pm (Boehm) 07/10

  Round trip 12 hrs, 35 minutes (without O2).


expid: CHUG23301
peakid: CHUG
year: 2023
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Paul Guertler
sponsor: Austrian Chukyima Go Expedition 2023
approach: ChetChet->Beding->Na->Yalung Ri High Camp
bcdate: 2023-10-08
smtdate: 2023-10-14
smttime: 1145
termdate: 2023-10-20
campsites: BC(08/10,5000m),C1(13/10,5600m),Smt(14/10)
agency: Friends Adventure Team
routememo:
  Summit team left high camp on 14 Oct at 3 am, summited at 11:45 am.

  First climbing a couloir for 5 pitches to reach the ridge. 1/3 wind pressed, 2/3 powder snow up to 70 degrees. Then following the ridge in some rock and mixed sections. very loose rock, ok conditions up to M4, some snow pitches. Then long snow ridge, ok conditions, some short pitches up to 70 degrees, some knee deep snow.


expid: DHA123304
peakid: DHA1
year: 2023
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Roman Abildaev
sponsor: Russian Dhaulgiri Expedition 2023
bcdate: 2023-09-26
smtdate: 2023-10-08
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to fatal fall
campsites: BC(26/09),C1(6050m),C2(6700m),C3(7200m),xxx
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  The climber trio flying to BC on 9/26. At his arrival, there was only the Elite team with 2 climbers who would soon leave BC. 28/10 marked the glacier up to the Eiger. On the 29th they started acclimation to 6050m to sleep. Cloudy weather with visibility of 50m. At dawn it had snowed and descended into BC in front of bad weather forecast with a front set to reach Dhaulagiri between 3-4 Oct. Heavy 1m snowfall in BC.

  On Oct 1st the climbers of Manaslu reached BC who were also going to attempt Dhaulagiri. After a week in BC with bad weather, they also left BC in the face of bad weather forecast (info via Allie Pepper).

  • 6/10: climb back to 6500m. Shops buried in snow, locating them with probes.

  • 7/10: Ascent to 6700m. The next day they want to reach 7200-7400m. There is a lot of snow coming down.

  • 8/10: The team exceeds 7000m and spend the night at 7200m.
  Report of very strong winds:

  • 9/10: Going down to BC. Abildaev reports they were a bit tired, but everything was fine. Although the acclimation trip was tricky with lots of snow and yesterday a hurricane wind blew all day long in excess of 70 mph, but today they got a small bonus. On the descent to C1, they tried to find an object again (descendor?) they lost on the first exit and managed to find it buried under 2m of snow. The are now resting and plan to recover for at least three davs.


  From the Himalayan Times, Oct 14, 2023

  A Russian woman climber has gone missing when she fell into crevasse above 6000m on Mt. Dhaulagiri this morning.

  According to sources, the incident occurred at around 11:25 am when a three-member team of Russian climbers attempted to climb Dhaulagiri without using base camp or Sherpa support.

  The missing woman climber has been identified as Nadezhda Oleneva, 38.

  "She has fallen into crevasse from around 6680m," sources said. Her teammates- Roman Abildaev and Radom Kashapov- who are now above the base camp, reported that she has fallen some 500m below as per the GPS coordinates.


expid: DOLM23301
peakid: DOLM
year: 2023
nation: Afghanistan
leaders: Shogufa Bayat
sponsor: Hamdeli Rolwaling Adventure 2023
countries: Japan, USA
smtdate: 2023-11-02
campsites: Smt(02/11)
agency: Khangri Trek
routememo:
  This expedition was comprised of two independent groups:

    Two Afghani women with Danika Gilbert (USA)
    Three Japanese climbers who summied on 2 Nov.


expid: GANC23301
peakid: GANC
year: 2023
route1: N Face
nation: Ecuador
leaders: Oswaldo Freire Cartagena
sponsor: 14 Peaks Ganchenpo Expedition 2023
countries: USA
bcdate: 2023-11-01
smtdate: 2023-11-03
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2023-11-05
campsites: BC(01/11,4600m),C1(02/11,5200m),Smt(03/11)
achievment: 1st ascent of N Face
agency: 14 Peaks Expedition
routememo:
  Team set out from C1 at 1:24 am, summited at 14:30 pm.

  Clear and low wind in the morning, cloud cover in the afternoon. Very cold day due the sun never warmed the route. Cold therapy.

  Grade:
    1000m
    AI 4+ 90 degrees
    TD / TD+


expid: HIML23303
peakid: HIML
year: 2023
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Nicolas Scheidtweiler
sponsor: Satori and Jost Friendship Himlung Himal Expedition 2023
countries: Finland, Sweden
approach: Koto->Meta->Phu->BC
bcdate: 2023-10-18
smtdate: 2023-10-30
smttime: 0740
termdate: 2023-11-02
campsites: BC(18/10,4850m),C1(20/10,5450m),C2(29/10,6000m),Smt(30/10)
agency: Satori Adventures
routememo:
  Koto, Meta, Phu, BC

  BC  18/10  4850m
  C1  20/10  5450m
  C2  29/10  6000m
  Smt 30/10  by Scheidtweiler, Hug, Bruemmer, Rombach, Nurbu and Nima (Ngima?)

  Left C2 at 11 pm on 29 Oct, reached summit at 7:40 am on 30 Oct. They stayed on the summit for about 20 minutes and back to C2 at 12 noon same day where they spent the night and next day descended BC. Left BC 2 Nov.

  Sherpas above BC: 2
  Oxygen: None 

  Accident:
    Jalonen suffered from HAS at 6000m on 23 Oct and evacuated 24 Oct by heli. 
    Hints fell from a bridge, injured on the way to BC. Evacuated by heli on 28 Oct.

  Source: Scheidtweiler. Date 06 November. At the department of tourism.


expid: HIML23307
peakid: HIML
year: 2023
route1: NW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Bertrand Roche
sponsor: Snowy Horizon Himlung Expedition 2023 (Team 2)
countries: Australia, Czech Republic, S Africa, Switzerland
smtdate: 2023-10-24
smttime: 1300
campsites: BC(4800m),C1(5600m),C2(6060m),C3(6250m),Smt(24,28/10)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  Report of Bertrand Roche:

  Approach: bus to Besisahar, four-wheel drive to Koto, trek to Himlung BC

  BC  14/10  4850m
  C1  18/10  5400m
  C2         team never slept at C2
  C3  23/10  6300m (afoot of the final snow slope)
  Smt 24/10  by Bertrand, Liv, Didier and Dorje Mingma Sherpa

  For both guides, the goal of the expedition was to paraglide from the top with their 3 clients (Didier, Martin and Walter). Sadly Walter wouldn’t be able to go above BC for health reasons.

  At first the agency told them there was no permit issued for paragliding from the top, yet it was underway. Thus, they decided to carry their paraglides anyway and see what would be possible once on the mountain.

  During the acclimatization, Walter Lefebvre would never make it above BC (maximum at the moraine) due to health troubles. He had secundary effects of the vaccine, with pulmonary embolism and brain effects (no stroke but he complained as if he had sinusitis, and lots of blood), which weakened him too much that he had to leave the expedition before its end. He was heli-rescued on the 19 or 20 October by helicopter to KTM.

  Following data concerns all the group except Walter.

  16 Oct: first roundtrip to C1 without sleeping (made a gear deposit)
  18 Oct: slept at C1
  19 Oct: up to C2, back to sleep at C1
  20 Oct: back to BC

  • Summit attempt 
  22 Oct: slept at C1
  23 Oct: slept at C3
  24 Oct: summit day!

  Team started from C3 later than other people at circa 7:30 am, since it was very cold and they wanted some sun! Bertrand, Liv, Didier and Dorje Mingma Sherpa reached the summit between 13:00 and 13:30 pm. Martin and the other Sherpa stopped at circa 6900m.

  On top they met with a South African female climber who was very slow, being prostrated on the descent, almost not moving.

  During the last stage of the ascent, guides considered conditions to not be optimum for a coming take off from the top, with obviously too much wind in wrong direction and first thermal clouds appearing. Knowing this, they left their paraglides at circa 6700-6800m before reaching the top.

  From the latter, they went down quickly to their take-off area, the latter reached between 2:00 and 2:30 pm by the different members. From there, Bertrand would assist everyone for the take-off, luckily achieved in good wind conditions plus not too exposed location.

  Martin would be the first to take off, assisted by Bertrand and the Sherpa, the latter who was holding the wing since there was 15/20 km/h wind, possibly a bit more.

  Liv started in second.

  Didier started in third. Since he was very tired, he had descended slower with his Sherpa, reaching the take-off area at the same time Liv was starting. Took time to prepare himself.

  Bertrand was the last to take off, at circa 3 pm.

  Everyone flew down straight to the BC safely.

  25 Oct: team stayed at BC for resting and packing.

  26 Oct: team left BC, aiming to go back by the Kang La Pass. On this day it stopped at Kyang (3820m).

  27 Oct: Kyang to Naar.

  28 Oct: team flew from Kang La pass (5306m) to land a bit lower to the east from Manang.

  With a few days left before the plane would fly back home (5 Nov), team spent a few days in Pokhara, flying over the lake, it being nowadays only allowed at its west corner. Then it had a little 2 days trek in the Mardi Himal, with a nice flight from the crest of Mardi Himal on the 31 October.

  Members at end: 4    
  Sherpas above BC: 2 

  Route: West Ridge (normal route)          

  Oxygen: not taken, not used

  Records: 1st paragliding attempt from HIML slopes?

  Accidents: health issues for Walter Lefebvre.

  Tkg. Agt: Karma Sherpa Trekking


expid: HIML23310
peakid: HIML
year: 2023
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Giulia Muoth
sponsor: Alpine Sherpa Guide Himlung Expedition 2023
approach: Manaslu Circuit, Koto->Meta->Phu
bcdate: 2023-10-13
smtdate: 2023-10-24
smttime: 1445
termdate: 2023-10-28
campsites: BC(13/10,4850m),C1(20/10,5400m),C2(21/10,6000m),C3(23/10,6350m),Smt(24/10)
agency: Alpine Sherpa Guide Treks
routememo:
  Summit team left C3 at 6:15 am on 24 Oct, summited at 2:45 pm, stayed 20 minutes, descended to C3 at 6 pm. Clear sky, windy, fixed rope was installed perfectly.


expid: HIML23314
peakid: HIML
year: 2023
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Denmark
leaders: Antoft Holmby
sponsor: Kipling Travel Himlung Expedition 2023
approach: Koto->Himlung BC
bcdate: 2023-10-08
smtdate: 2023-10-20
termdate: 2023-10-25
campsites: BC(08/10),C1(10/10),C2(11/10),C3(19/10),Smt(20/10)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  Expedition Report: Himlung Expedition for Danish Clients, September 2023

  Introduction:

  In September 2023, the Himlung Expedition aimed to deliver an unforgettable mountaineering adventure to our Danish clients, culminating at the impressive elevation of 7126 meters. Led by Antoft Line, the team consisted of 9 clients, each eager to conquer the heights of Himlung.

  Client Information:

  The expedition comprised Lone Duval, Kim Madsen, Liana Lucich, Steffen Oesegaard, Niels Toft, Martin Hansen, Martin Slot and Martin Ploug, with Antoft Holmby serving as the Team Leader. Ang Chering Sherpa joined as the Nepali climbing guide, ensuring local expertise and support.

  Expedition Timeline:

  Commencing in Kathmandu on September 25, the team journeyed to Koto by September 30, eventually arriving at Himlung Base Camp (4850m) on October 6. Base camp preparations and expedition readiness activities were scheduled from October 7 to October 22.

  Activities:

  Throughout this period, the group engaged in various activities to enhance their readiness:

  Acclimatization Hikes: Scheduled acclimatization hikes helped participants adjust to the altitude and rugged terrain.

  Technical Training: Clients underwent extensive technical training covering essential mountaineering skills such as rope-handling, ice-axe techniques and crevasse rescue.

  Summit Push: A meticulously planned summit push aimed to capitalize on favorable weather windows, though unfortunately, adverse weather conditions and some members not feeling fully fit or confident led to its cancellation at the last moment.

  A Summary of the Push Towards Summit:

  1st Day: Puja and hike to Camp 1. As with all expeditions, puja was commenced on the first day for a successful summit. Then the team started towards Camp 1. Not all the members were able to reach Camp 1 on the first day. Time taken was 6/7 hours.

  2nd Day: Camp 1 was setup by the climbing Sherpas. All members slept for one night at Camp 1 for acclimatization.

  3rd Day: Members went up to Camp 2, then returned back to Base Camp. Climbing Sherpas setup Camp 2.

  4th Day: Rest Day for members at Base Damp.

  5th Day: Rest Day for members at Base Damp and the climbing Sherpas set up food and rope for Camp 3.

  6th Day: Climb to Camp 1. Eight members were able to climb to Camp 1 and one member returned to Base Camp.

  7th Day: Climb to Camp 2. Seven members were able to climb to Camp 2 and one more member returned to Base Camp.

  8th Day: Climb to Camp 3. All remaining seven members were able to climb to Camp 3.

  9th Day at Midnight: The push for the summit was started with the target to reach the summit by 9 am and return to Camp by 12 noon. However at around 3 am, one member returned due to dehydration. At 4:30 am two more members returned due to fatigue. At 5 am, two more members returned due to not feeling well. By 6 am the remaining two members also returned back while at around 6500 meters. The guide had advised them that they could use the two cylinders of oxygen and push for the summit, but the members declined to use oxygen. Keeping the members safety in mind, the lead guide abandoned the push for the summit and returned with the members. Phurba Thile Sherpa did go up to the summit and hoisted the Kipling Travels banner.

  Challenges Faced:

  The expedition encountered several challenges:

  Adverse Weather: Unpredictable weather, including high winds and heavy snowfall, hindered progress and ultimately thwarted summit attempts.

  Altitude Sickness: Some clients experienced symptoms of altitude sickness, necessitating careful monitoring and adjustments to the itinerary.

  Key Learnings: 

  The expedition underscored the importance of:

  Flexibility: Adaptation to changing weather conditions and client needs proved crucial for ensuring safety and success.

  Preparation: Comprehensive preparation, encompassing physical conditioning, technical proficiency, and contingency planning, mitigated risks and optimized outcomes.

  Accommodations: Tented camps at strategic altitudes facilitated acclimatization and supported summit endeavors.

  Outcome:

  Despite the team's determination and efforts, adverse weather conditions forced a retreat from above Camp 3, leading to an unsuccessful summit attempt.

  Conclusion:

  While the expedition did not reach its ultimate goal, the experience fostered a profound sense of achievement among participants, deepening their reverence for the majestic Himalayas.


  Editor's Note:

  Expedition report and Ministry file dates disagree.


expid: HIML23315
peakid: HIML
year: 2023
route1: NW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Michael Arnold
sponsor: Shangri-La Nepal Trek (SNT) Himlung Expedition 2023
countries: Switzerland
campsites: No Smt
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  From Tom Lafaille Facebook, 1 Oct 2023

  This September, Mike and I took off for Nepal.

  After a short August in the Chamonix valley, it was time to get back in a base camp for a few rough nights. But this one is really comfy, and makes a nice change from the moraines of the Baltoro!

  I’d already been to the Annapurna Valley as a kid, in 2008, to do the classic Tour. I remember the base camp on the south face... A 11km wide, 3000m high monster. Unimaginable, until you’ve seen it.

  But here the plan was quite different.

  Last winter, on the Aiguille du Midi lift, Mike shared his autumn project with me. It’s a magnificent 7000-meter peak, untouched by skis, which has only seen 3 alpine climbs. He’s already attempted it in 2019. He first introduced it to me, showing me the photos, and I was hooked.

  However, the rest of the adventure turned out to be less exciting. Upon our arrival at the BC, it became evident that the monsoon was still in full force. There was a substantial amount of rain, and snow was present between 6500 and 7000, displaying extensive fractures, indicating a highly unstable snowpack.

  What was initially planned as our acclimatization summit transformed into a challenge. The 500m slopes leading up to the 7000ish summit were steep, with inclines of approximately 35° (perfect for avalanches).

  Accessing the face became immediately compromised. The access gully to the glacier became a waterfall during these scorching days, and the moraines continuously fell apart throughout the day.

  It’s an experience, a very frustrating one. Initially, there’s hope, but eventually, you find yourself questioning why the hell you’re here.

  But, through this type of adventure, there’s growth. You come to understand yourself better, it propels you forward in pursuing your aspirations and desires.


expid: JANE23301
peakid: JANE
year: 2023
route1: N Face
nation: USA
leaders: Michael Gardner, Sam Hennessey
sponsor: American Khumbhakarna (Jannu East) Expedition 2023
approach: By Jeep to Taplejung and farther, trekked to BC
bcdate: 2023-09-17
smtdate: 2023-10-10
campsites: BC(17/09,4700m),xxx(10/10,7010m)
agency: Grand Himalaya Treks
primid: JANU23301
routememo:
  Approach: Jeep to Taplejung, another jeep to end of the road. Then one week of trekking to BC.

  The second American team of Michael Gardner and Sam Hennessey planned to attempt the N Face of Jannu East.

  Gardner and Hennessey reached 7010m on 10 Oct and stopped due to high winds.


expid: JANU23301
peakid: JANU
year: 2023
route1: N Face
nation: USA
leaders: Matthew Cornell
sponsor: American Khumbhakarna (Jannu) Expedition 2023
approach: By Jeep to Taplejung and farther, trekked to BC
bcdate: 2023-09-17
smtdate: 2023-10-12
smttime: 1620
othersmts: Attempted N Face of Jannu East (by Garnder and Hennessey)
agency: Grand Himalaya Treks
campsites:
  BC(17/09,4700m),Biv1(06/10,5800m),Biv2(07/10,6700m),Biv3(08/10,7100m),Biv4(09/10,7450m),Biv5(10/10,7400m),Smt(12/10)

routememo:
  Approach: Jeep to Taplejung, another jeep to end of the road. Then one week of trekking to BC.

  BC   17/09  4700m
  Biv1 06/10  5800m
  Biv2 07/10  6700m
  Biv3 08/10  7100m
  Biv4 09/10  7250m
  Biv5 10/10  7400m
  Smt  12/10  by Rousseau, Marvell, Cornell at 4:20 pm.

  They had acclimatized on a 6000m hill behind BC. Did two rounds of a 3- day schedule hiking and sleeping at 6000m.

  Team started from highest bivy for the summit at between 7-8 am on 12/10. All bivouacs on portal ledges. The weather was fair, sunny on the summit. On the summit at 4:20 pm. Stayed on the top for 5 minutes and took some selfies. Then down to Biv 5 for the night which they reached at 10 pm.  Next day all the way down to BC. They rappeled down the same way as ascent. Reached BC around midnight.

  Crux of the route: entire headwall from approx. 7000m to the top.

  Classification: M7, AI5+, A0.

  Route name: Round Trip Ticket

  Members at end: 3

  Oxygen: not taken, not used

  Accidents: Rousseau and Marvell both frostbite grade 2-3 on three fingers.

  Left BC on: 15/10 by helicopter from BC to Kathmandu.


  The other American team of Michael Gardner and Sam Hennessey planned to attempt the N Face of Jannu East (no details available).


expid: MAK223301
peakid: MAK2
year: 2023
route1: S Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Matthew Scholes
sponsor: Makalu Adventure Makalu Expedition 2023
countries: New Zealand
smtdate: 2023-10-15
othersmts: Attempted Makalu I (MAK2-233-01)
campsites: BC,ABC(5500m),C1(6800m),C2(7200m),Smt(15/10)
agency: Makalu Adventure
primid: MAKA23301
routememo:
  New Zealand Alpine Team FB page:

  NZAT team member Matty Scholes, along with Alastair McDowell, Hamish Fleming and Matthew Clark, just got back from their expedition to the Himalayas. The team set out with the objective of Makalu. They approached via the Makalu La. Unfortunately their base camp provider lied to the team about where they would place their base camp, so the start of the trip turned into a ferrying loads mission. This cost the team a lot of time and energy, that would have been better spent acclimating higher.

  By the time they were acclimated enough to go for a summit attempt of Makalu, the conditions on the mountain became very cold and windy. Instead, they turned their attention towards Makalu 2 (Kangchungtse) that was a bit lower and more sheltered. Matty, Hamish and Matthew summited Kangchungste (7678m). Unfortunately Alastair had lung issues and had had to descend back to base camp.

  Photo/video captions:

  1. Matt Clark at around 6500m on the first acclimation round. Mt Everest in the background. It was perfect weather - unfortunately we were not ready to go to the summit at that point.
  2. Video taken from approximately 6000m
  3. Makalu, from basecamp, with prayer flags and Himalayan though
  4. First advanced base camp (where base camp was supposed to be)
  5. Hamish headed toward Kangchungtse via the Makalu La
  6. Refuelling in the tent at 6800m, tail wind is all you can eat at that altitude
  7. Brew at camp below Makalu La
  8. Summit photo on Kangchungtse
  9. Kangchungtse on the left, and Makalu summit on the right


expid: MAKA23301
peakid: MAKA
year: 2023
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Matthew Scholes
sponsor: Makalu Adventure Makalu Expedition 2023
countries: New Zealand
termnote: Abandoned due to cold and windy weather
othersmts: Summited Makakalu II (MAK2-233-01)
campsites: BC,ABC(5500m),C1(6800m),C2(7450m),xxx
agency: Makalu Adventure
routememo:
  nzalpineteam Instagram Acct

  NZAT team member Matty Scholes, along with Alastair McDowell, Hamish Fleming and Matthew Clark, just got back from their expedition to the Himalayas. The team set out with the objective of Makalu. They approached via the Makalu La. Unfortunately their base camp provider lied to the team about where they would place their base camp, so the start of the trip turned into a ferrying loads mission. This cost the team a lot of time and energy, that would have been better spent acclimating higher.

  By the time they were acclimated enough to go for a summit attempt of Makalu, the conditions on the mountain became very cold and windy. Instead, they turned their attention towards Makalu 2 (Kangchungtse) that was a bit lower and more sheltered. Matty, Hamish and Matthew summited Kangchungste (7678m). Unfortunately Alastair had lung issues and had had to descend back to base camp.

  Photo/video captions:

  1. Matt Clark at around 6500m on the first acclimation round. Mt Everest in the background. It was perfect weather - unfortunately we were not ready to go to the summit at that point.
  2. Video taken from approximately 6000m
  3. Makalu, from basecamp, with prayer flags and Himalayan though
  4. First advanced base camp (where base camp was supposed to be)
  5. Hamish headed toward Kangchungtse via the Makalu La
  6. Refuelling in the tent at 6800m, tail wind is all you can eat at that altitude
  7. Brew at camp below Makalu La
  8. Summit photo on Kangchungtse
  9. Kangchungtse on the left, and Makalu summit on the right


expid: MALA23301
peakid: MALA
year: 2023
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Prakash Sherpa
sponsor: Alpinist Climber Malanphulan Expedition 2023
countries: Italy, USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Ama Dablam BC
bcdate: 2023-10-20
smtdate: 2023-11-03
termdate: 2023-11-07
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to bad conditions
campsites: BC(20/10,4600m),C1(31/10,5800m),xxx(03/11,6200m)
agency: Alpinist Climber
routememo:
  From Prakash Sherpa:

  November 3, 2023 two IFMGA/UIAGM guides Riten Jangbu Sherpa and Prakash Sherpa along with their clients Jay Mathers and Luigi Santini attempted the unclimbed NW Ridge of Malanphulan of Nepal in alpine-style which is located in beautiful hidden valley of Khumbu Everest region. Despite having very exposed North Face to find the camp 1 below shoulder ridge & via SW Ridge we have successfully reached 6200m approximately even though on very unstable snow conditions where very rarely we can put the anchorage beside having the shock of earthquake on Friday night.

  Malangphulan is believed to be a sacred and protected holy mountain in Sherpas community which is also worshipped and recited Mantras in Buddhist holy text in every monastery of Khumbu region. Thus we did Big Puja ceremonies at Pangboche Monastery worshipped all the holy deities and protected as local belief for safe passage.


expid: MANA23303
peakid: MANA
year: 2023
route1: NE Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Chhang Dawa Sherpa
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks (SST) Manaslu Expedition 2023 (Team 1)
smtdate: 2023-09-20
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(20,22-24/09)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
countries:
  Brazil, China, Denmark, France, Iran, Italy, Kosovo, Norway, Pakistan, Poland, Romania, Russia, Spain, USA


expid: MANA23304
peakid: MANA
year: 2023
route1: NE Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Chhang Dawa Sherpa
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks (SST) Manaslu Expedition 2023 (Team 2)
smtdate: 2023-09-25
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(25-29/09)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
countries:
  Australia, Canada, Czech Republic, Denmark, France, Germany, Iran, Mexico, Norway, Romania, S Korea, Spain


expid: MANA23309
peakid: MANA
year: 2023
route1: NE Face
nation: USA
leaders: Luke Smithwick
sponsor: Pioneer Adventure Manaslu Expedition 2023
countries: Austria, Canada, France, Germany, India, Kenya, Nepal
smtdate: 2023-09-21
smttime: 0520
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(21,24-26,28/09)
agency: Pioneer Adventure
routememo:
  From Cheruiyot Kirui:

  We didnt spend any night at C4. we however rested at C4  on 23 Sept and started for the summit at 10 pm. Conditions were good. We were climbing without supplemental oxygen and got to the summit at around 12:20 pm on 24 Sept. Summit was windy. Returned to C2 around 2 am on 25 Sept.

  We were first Kenyans to reach the true summit of Manaslu, also first Kenyans to climb an eight-thousander without supplemental oxygen.


  From Katrin Oertel:

  BC  14/09  4850m
  C1  18/09  5550m
  C1B 21/09  5773m
  C2  22/09  6300m
  C3  27/09  6630m
  C4  28/09  7340m at 2 am
  Smt 28/09  by Oertel and Schuchter at 5 pm.

  The expedition carried everything to BC and up the mountain themselves. All the climbing gear, food and tents and whatever was needed for the expedition.

  Oertel left Kathmandu on 23/08 to Maccha Khola. She carried her expedition gear to Samagaon, then crossed the Larkya La and went back to Kathmandu where she met Schuchter on 04/09. She also carried her own food to BC, but when they arrived there, she realised that Thamserku had organised all the food and then they used their services.

  On their first rotation they tagged C2 on 16/09, dumped their gear and returned to BC.

  On second rotation, they tagged C3 on 19/09 after they had dumped their gear at C2, returned to C2 and stayed the night there and descended to BC on 20/09.

  On summit push, they ascended to C2, and after they had stayed a night at C3 they ascended towards C4 at 6 pm to reach the summit that night. However, the weather was very windy and when they reached C4 on 28/09 at 2 am they asked a Japanese man whether they could stay in his tent.

  They started their summit push at 8 am. They were on their own on the summit on their own as they summited so late. They spent about 10 minutes and descended to C4 where they arrived at around 9 pm. The tent of the Japanese was empty which they could use again for the night.

  On 29/09, they descended to C3 where they rested a bit and then dismantled it, did the same with C2 and then descended to BC. Left BC on 01/10 to Samagaon. Trekked back to Machha Khola.

  Sherpas above BC: None
  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


expid: MANA23312
peakid: MANA
year: 2023
route1: NE Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Franz Thomas Hoelzl
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Manaslu Expedition 2023
countries: Canada, Switzerland
approach: Trekked to BC
bcdate: 2023-09-04
smtdate: 2023-09-20
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2023-09-29
campsites: BC(04/09,4850m),C1(12/09,5750m),C2(19/09,6300m),C3(20/09,6630m),Smt(20-21,27/09)
agency: Himalaya Vision
routememo:
  BC  04/09  4850m
  C1  12/09  5750m
  C2  19/09  6300m
  C3  20/09  6630m
  Smt 21/09  by Lehmacher, Croce, Lal Bahadur, Palden Sherpa at 5:30 am
  Smt 27/09  by Hoelzl, Givel, Mingmar, Lakpa Sherpa at 10 am.

  Both were true summits.

  21/09 summit team left C3 at 8 pm. Straightforward climb. Good conditions, low winds. They descended to near C4, had a rest and descended to C3, where Lehmacher and Lal Bahadur spent the night. Croce and Palden descended to BC.

  27/09 summit team left C3 at 7:45 pm. Straightforward climb. No other people on the summit with them. They spent about half an hour on the summit and descended to C2 where they arrived at 3:45 pm.

  Kress and Jit Bahadur reached 7300m on the summit push. Kress was not feeling well and turned back to C2 to spend the night.

  Everybody back to BC on 28/09.

  Left BC on 29/09 to Samagaon, 30/03 helicopter to Kathmandu.

  Sherpas above BC: 4

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C2 to summit to C2 by Givel
    Taken and used from C4 to summit to C3 by Hoelzl
    Taken and used from C3 to summit to C3 by other members and Sherpas.


  Gabriel Filippi and his client Charles Page climbed separately and summited on 20 Sept with two Sherpas.


expid: MANA23313
peakid: MANA
year: 2023
route1: NE Face
nation: Poland
leaders: Karol Adamski
sponsor: Satori Adventures Manaslu Expedition 2023
countries: Canada, France, India, Netherlands, Russia, Spain, USA
smtdate: 2023-09-22
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(22,24,26-28/09)
agency: Satori Adventures
routememo:
  Valeri Babanov, Valeri Afanasiev and Andrei Korzh climbed as a separate team. Babanov and Afanasiev left C4 (7450m) at 00:15 on 24 Sept, summited at 7:30 am, stayed 15 minutes, then descended to C3 (6600m) at 3 pm.


expid: MANA23318
peakid: MANA
year: 2023
route1: NE Face
nation: UK
leaders: Stuart Peacock
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Manaslu Expedition 2023
countries: Canada, Estonia, Germany, Italy
approach: Besisahar->Larkya La->Samagaon
bcdate: 2023-09-05
smtdate: 2023-09-21
termdate: 2023-09-28
campsites: BC(05/09,4750m),C1(10/09,5750m),C2(12/09,6200m),C3(18/09,6650m),C4(25/09,7400m),Smt(21,26-27/09)
agency: Makalu Adventure
routememo:
  Adventure Peaks Team (Peacock, Mead and Mills):

  Summit team left C4 at 2 am on 26 Sept, summited at 8:15 am, over an hour spent at true summit and fore-summit, the retured to C2 at 4 pm.

  Clear, low winds, good conditions underfoot. Route marker wanded and fixed on steeper sections.

  Members and Sherpas used oxygen from 6650m (C3) and stopped using at 6650m.


expid: MANA23320
peakid: MANA
year: 2023
route1: NE Face
nation: Russia
leaders: Artem Smolentsev
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Manaslu Expedition 2023
countries: Belarus
bcdate: 2023-09-11
smtdate: 2023-09-24
smttime: 1140
campsites: BC(11/09,4800m),C1(5600m),C2(6300m),C3(600m),C4(7300m),Smt(24-28/09)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Expedition of St. Petersburg and 6 climbers on the top of Manaslu

  The expedition of the “Mountaineering School of St. Petersburg” to the eight-thousander Manaslu in Nepal has ended. As the organizers note , it was held in the best traditions of the “Height” project, all 11 participants descended from the mountain safely.

  On September 24-28, 6 members of the St. Petersburg Mountaineering School expedition successfully climbed to the top of Manaslu. They ascended without the use of additional oxygen, the help of Sherpas or the services of base camps.

  The ascent was carried out completely autonomously; the team spent 30 days on it. During this month, the climbers managed to acclimatize, make the necessary transfers of equipment and supplies, and set up their own high-altitude camps.

  “The School of Mountaineering of St. Petersburg” even got a discount on permits for climbing.

  Head of the expedition of the St. Petersburg State Public Organization "Mountaineering School of St. Petersburg": Alexander Dusheiko, Artem Smolentsev. 

  Participants: Oleg Kruglov, Alexey Cherdantsev, Dmitry Klyukin, Igor Korovin, Mikhail Makeenko, Dmitry Pribylov, Anton Lezhnev, Vladimir Chistikov, Maxim Makarov.


expid: PHUR23301
peakid: PHUR
year: 2023
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Miguel Zabalza Azcona
sponsor: Dream Carrier Phurbi Chhyachu Expedition 2023
approach: Kathmandu->Bolde->Tembathang->Pemasal
bcdate: 2023-10-01
smtdate: 2023-10-25
termdate: 2023-10-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6570m due to lateness of day, bad weather
othersmts: Summited Phurbi Txiki (6125m) by all members
campsites: BC(01/10,3900m),Biv1(05/10,4900m),Biv2(13/10,6000m),xxx(25/10,6570m)
agency: Dream Carrier Treks
routememo:
  Approach: Kathmandu->Bolde (1770m)->Tembathang (2160m)->Pemasal

  BC    30/09-01/10  3900m
  Biv1  05/10  4900m
  Biv2  06/10  5400m (Phurbi Txiki)
  Smt   07/10  (Phurbi Txiki) by all members

  Biv2  13/10  6000m (Phurbi Chhyachu)
  HPt   25/10  6570m (Phurbi Chhyachu) by all three members

  Climb abandoned 25/10 for Phurbi Chhyachu due to lack of time, bad weather.

  Trio went from KTM by car until Bolde village (1770m). From there, it trekked via various villages, the main one called Tembathang (2160m).

  From a last village named Pemasal (circa 3400m), there wouldn’t be trails anymore. The difficult approach via the Nyanya Masal Khola to the base camp was achieved with the help of a local shepherd, showing them the trail and opening it with a khukri knife!

  At the beginning, trio faced a lot of rain and bad weather, waiting at the BC for 4 to 5 days.

  • “Phurbi Txiki”, 6125m, via its WSW Ridge, acclimatization.

  That peak, christened as “Phurbi Txiki” by the team, is a satellite one located southeast to Phurbi Chhyachu and measured at 6125m on the Finn Map.

  The trio made its first ascent in 3 days from BC, via its WSW Ridge.

  05/10: from BC to circa 4900m under the ridge and down to the right glacier.

  06/10: to a circa 5400m bivouac on the ridge.

  07/10: to summit. The summit was so thin they couldn’t stand on it all 3 together at the same time but separately only! On the same day the trio went back to BC.

  Difficulties: a few mixed ground sections were soloed, also a few 70° maximum sections in snow and ice. On the way down, the trio made about 4 or 5 abseils, yet most of it was down-climbing.

  • Phurbi Chyachu, 6637m, attempts via the SE Ridge;

  The expedition first aimed for the obvious SW rocky pillar, but:

  (1) Its access proved to be unpleasant, through a ground prone to objective risks (stone falls), and very moist with a lot of lichens covering the rock.

  To be mentioned that Phurbi Chhyachu is a big mountain lying close above the jungle. For that reason, its climate is particularly moist (fog and rain every day) in comparison with Dorje Lakpa’s, the latter climbed two years before by its South Face and yet not that far to the northwest!

  (2) For climbing such big pillar serenely, one would need to make it capsule style likely, involving fixed ropes. With three ropes only (2 for climbing and 1 for security), the trio rather aimed for some alpine style climbing.

  First attempt to 6200m:

  12/10: from BC to the previous 4900m bivouac.

  13/10: reached the SE ridge at 6000m via its West Face, the latter consisting in steep slopes with the last 300m in sustained 60/70° snow-ice slopes (6 abseils there on the descent every time).

  14/10: after a very windy night, had to wait for the wind to decrease, so that the trio started at 7 am only. The ridge itself proved to be harder than expected, so that the trio stopped its effort at 6200m, going back down to bivy 2 for sleeping.   
  15/10: down to BC.

  From there, the trio stayed a week at BC, waiting for a weather window with the less wind as possible. Eventually it could enjoy a second attempt with a rather good wind forecast, yet cold would unexpectedly invite into the game. When they were back to BC a few days before, the 0° isotherm was lying at 5500m, whereas it would drop down in fact to 3300m during the second attempt.

  Second attempt to circa 6570m:

  23/10: went up to sleep at bivy 1.

  24/10: went up to sleep at bivy 2 on the SE Ridge.

  25/10: had to start at circa 6:30 am because of the cold and little wind. As they were climbing, at circa 11 am the first clouds appeared, then from noon wind, blizzard, spindrifts, all-in-all making the climb not easy.

  The attempt eventually stopped at 3 pm, not far below the top at circa 6570m. The trio had climbed until the end of the difficulties, stopping down to the last rock step. Here, knowing they had just 2:30 left before the night, they didn’t want to lose themselves in the summit area.

  The trio descended back down to its bivy 2, reached at circa 8:00-8:30 pm. It had faced cold during the day, with circa minus 25°C all day long.

  The ridge itself proved to be harder technically than the West Face giving access to the ridge.

  On the way up, trio faced 3 hrs of almost vertical mixed and ice ground, the ice itself being excellent, but the weather conditions at the same time being quite bad. Yet not that hard intrinsically, lower part of the ridge consisted in rock towers to bypass left and right, making it not straight nor quick.

  On the way down, trio had to make about 15 abseils. The first one in the upper part was quite long thanks to a straight ground. But lower down in the towers area, the trio had to make short abseils (30m) instead to be able to negotiate that complex ground. Meanwhile they would do roped down-climbing.

  26/10: bivy 2 to BC.

  Overall grading for the route: 1500m, TD+.

  Zabalza first went in the area in 1992 (with Longpo Gang climbed under the radar ??, Gurkarpo Ri…). With newly opened peaks around, they will likely come back in 2024.

  Left BC on 28 or 29 Oct.

  Routes:
    WSW Ridge of “Phurbi Txiki” (6125m)
    SE Ridge of Phurbi Chhyachu from west.

  Sherpas above BC: None
  Oxygen: Not taken, not used

  Records: first recorded ascent of “Phurbi Txiki” (6125m) by its WSW Ridge; first attempt of SE Ridge of PHUR from west.


expid: PUMO23301
peakid: PUMO
year: 2023
route1: SE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Aymar Navarro Combalie
sponsor: Pumori Expedition 2023 by The North Face
countries: Italy, Nepal
smtdate: 2023-10-08
termnote: Abandoned at 7030m due to avalanche danger
campsites: BC,xxx(08/10,7030m)
agency: 8K Expeditions
routememo:
  From Simone Moro, 12 Oct 2023

  - Normal route: SE Face
  - No camps
  - Mo fixed ropes
  - Started at 2:00 am of Sunday 8 October
  - at 12:24 they were at 7030m
  - at 19:00 they were in ABC

  They went up and down till 7030m in 17 hrs. Then it was so evident the danger of avalanche in the summit area that sadly they turned back and did 20 rappels till the bottom of the face.

  - Pemba Ongchu Sherpa and Datuk Sherpa as partners.


expid: PUMO23303
peakid: PUMO
year: 2023
route1: SE Face-NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Lucien Boucansaud
sponsor: Himalaya Vision Pumori Expedition 2023
approach: Lukla->EBC Trail
bcdate: 2023-09-21
smtdate: 2023-10-28
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2023-11-04
campsites: BC(21/09,4700m),C1(20/10,5700m),Smt(29/10)
agency: Himalaya Vision
routememo:
  Approach: Lukla->EBC trail.

  BC  21/09  4700m (Chhukung, for the whole expedition, including Island Peak
                    and Cho Polu)
  C1  20/10  5700m
  Smt 28/10  by Lucien Boucansaud at 9:30 am.

  • Acclimatization, Island Peak

  Lucien Boucansaud, David Goettler and Guillaume Pierrel arrived in the Khumbu Valley on the 20 Sept, first reaching Chhukung on the 21 Sept. First had daily trails on the surrounding cols for acclimatizing softly.

  29/09: from Lhotse Glacier, trio went up in alpine-style to Island Peak via its North Ridge. Prior reaching the Imjatse La, trio had to break trail throughout ascending ledges going up rightwards. Trio chose to bivouac 5m down to the top on a ledge for achieving its acclimatization. First night above 6000m for Boucansaud went well.

  30/09: trio went back down to Chhukung. Then 4 days of bad weather occurred, the team resting eventually in Chhukung for a week.

  • Cho Polu: repeat in alpine style of the Corominas/Tosas route on the West Face

  07/10: trio bivouacked afoot of Cho Polu’s West Face.

  08/10: trio climbed the face to the top in a 10 hr push. From the top, trio went back to the col lying atop of the West Face (at circa 6400m). Here the trio dug a cave in the soft snow, but after a meter it touched the ice! Trio then had to sleep in half a hole, making it not a pleasant night, but a rather survival one by minus 25°. This knowing that climbing fast and light, they hadn’t had any sleeping bags.

  Why staying a night up there?

  The West Face itself sizes circa 800-900m high, generally consisting in 60-70° snow-ice slopes. Here Boucansaud first met with the specific snow conditions never experienced in the Alps. From dry conditions down the face, then the trio had 400m of quick perfect snow; but in the last upper 200m before touching the ridge, trio faced inconsistent sugar-snow conditions, sometimes forcing them to dig a meter to be able to put an ice screw. “More committed than any steep rock face, the latter in which one can put good protections”.

  So after the summit, the trio decided not to down-climb the face at night. It also had thought after the option to climb down towards Makalu eastwards. But that option would have been not that dangerous, it would have been a very long one instead, involving 5 to 6 days to trek back to Chhukung (via the classic “3 cols”).

  09/10: Trio down-climbed to face from early in the morning, joining back Chhukung lodge on the same day in the afternoon.

  End of the expedition?

  All 3 members were now tired, and Goettler and Pierrel would walk back down to Lukla 2 days later.

  Boucansaud instead chose to stay for climbing on his own in the Khumbu Valley. He first went down to Namche, resting there 4 days from 11 to 15 of October (“not too high in altitude, better variety of food there”).

  From there, he went up to stay 2 days in Chhukung, from 15 to 17 of Oct.

  • Pumori: solo alpine-style ascent by the normal route.

  17/10: Chhukung to Lobuche (Pyramid Lodge) via Kongma Pass.

  18/10: Lobuche to Gorakshep to the footstep of the route (camped there). 

  19/10: took a day rest in his tent after his two-days trek. In addition, for observing the mountain conditions since it had snowed on the 17 Oct, wanted to wait for a maximum of stabilization of the slopes.

  20/10: went up to C1 at 5700m with all his gear.

  21/10: made a first summit attempt, stopped at 6700m because of the avalanche risk. Went back down to C1, tired after a 16 hr roundtrip breaking trail. Had also faced cold conditions during the day, with minus 20°C. First considered to definitely abandon.

  22/10: would prove to be another long day.

  After a late bed, “my best night during the whole expedition”, as he was woken up by the ray of lights at circa 10 am, his motivation came back: he had still time left (2 weeks), he knew the route up to 6700m already, so why not giving it another try?

  Boucansaud dismantled his C1. Down the mountain, he left all his climbing gear in a big black bag locked with a padlock, hiding it under a big rock. From there, he directly walked back to Chhukung in trail mode (2500m positive, 25kms in length, this usually requiring 2 days). Reached Chhukung at 6 pm.

  23-26/10: rested at Chhukung.

  26/10: Chhukung to Lobuche (Pyramid Lodge) via Kongma Pass.

  27/10: Lobuche to C1.

  28/10: Had first planned to wake up at 1 am, but with a full moon and cold night, he couldn’t sleep still at midnight. So he started from C1 at circa 1:20-1:30 am, with almost no wind (20 km/h maximum) and less cold conditions than during his first attempt (minus 10°C). Reached the top at circa 9:30 am, staying there for 10 min. Was back at C1 at 14:57, where he stayed for the night, feeling very tired. Knew that below C1, all objective risks were gone so he could rest at this place safely after the summit descent.

  Boucansaud considers the ascent as quite complex for a normal route. Lots of left and right bypassing of ice walls and convex ice sections, prone to avalanche, all-in-all a complex ground to negotiate. “Even 10 days after a snow fall, the wind is still able to form ice slabs!”. “The last 500 meters on the NE Ridge are comparable to the Aiguille Verte’s snow-ice cap in Chamonix.

  29/10: from C1 to Lobuche (Pyramid Lodge). When he thought to be the last expedition attempting the route, here Boucansaud surprisingly discovered another expedition’s tents lying afoot of the mountain: British Simon Yates had arrived there with a Sherpa team intending for the normal route. Both talked together about the current conditions, Yates looking very motivated to summit a nice mountain after his latest misadventures with Mick Fowler.

  30/10: Lobuche to Chhukung, where he stayed four days for rest. Left it on 4 Nov for Lukla.

  It was the second expedition in Nepal for Boucansaud, after his participation to Marc Batard’s project of the alternative route on Everest in November 2021.

  Sherpas above BC: 0

  Route: SE Face to NE Ridge (normal route)

  Oxygen: not taken, not used

  Records: 1st alpine-style solo ascent of the normal route? 


expid: PUTH23302
peakid: PUTH
year: 2023
route1: NE Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Frank Felder
sponsor: German Putha Hiunchuli Expedition 2023
smtdate: 2023-10-17
termdate: 2023-10-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to bad weather
campsites: BC,C1(13/10,5400m),C2(16/10,6000m),xxx(71/10,6800m)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  C1  13/10  5400m
  C2  16/10  6000m
  HPt 17/10  6800m

  Abandoned due to bad weather, skied down from High Pt to C1.


expid: PUTH23304
peakid: PUTH
year: 2023
route1: NE Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Billi Bierling
sponsor: German-Austrian Putha Himchuli Expedition 2023
countries: Austria
approach: By Jeep from Nepalgung to Dunai, trekked to BC
bcdate: 2023-10-25
smtdate: 2023-11-03
smttime: 1345
termdate: 2023-11-05
campsites: BC(25/10,4938m),C1(28/10,5400m),C1B(01/11,5700m),C2(02/11,6602m),Smt(03/11)
routememo:
  Left KTM 17/10, Jeep from Nepalgunj to Dunai, Karkot rest day

  BC   25/10  4938m
  C1   28/10  5400m
  C1B  01/11  5700m
  C2   02/11  6602m
  Smt  03/11  by Kaltenbrunner, Kalkbrenner, Nima Shetpa at 1:45 pm and Bierling,
              Gfoellner, Pasang and Ngatar at 5 pm.

  Summit teams started from C2 at 9:10 am. Despite the favorable weather forecast it was very windy, but clear. They set out together, but Kaltenbrunner, Kalkbrenner and Nima Sherpa were soon ahead. The snow conditions were tricky as the tracks from the previous SST team were covered in snow and allowed for breaking in.

  First team reached the summit at 1:45 pm. The stayed about 10 mins on the top, but they did not have views due to white-out. On their way down, they met the second summit team at around 3:30 pm in high winds. They descended all the way to BC where they arrived at 7:45 pm.

  Second team spent about 5 mins in the summit. It was clear with very low temperatures of around -25C to -30C. They descended to C2 where they arrived at 9 pm. On 4/11 everyone down to BC.

  Carolin Kalkbrenner reached 5600m on 29/10. She did not feel up to going much higher which wasn’t really her intention.

  Jericha reached 5700m on 01/11. He did not sleep well at that altitude and had trouble breathing so he returned to BC on 02/11.

  Stiehler reached 6100m on 02/11. He did not feel strong enough to continue in the deteriorating weather and descended to BC the same day.

  No oxygen taken or used
  No fixed rope
  No accidents

  Left BC on 05/11, trekked to Juphal and arrived on 08/11.


expid: RAKS23301
peakid: RAKS
year: 2023
route1: S Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Yuma Uno
sponsor: Doshisha University Far Western Nepal Expedition 2023
approach: Via Chainpur
termnote: Abandoned after earthquake struck the region
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  They had planned to climb the South Face of Raksha Urai. Team had left Kathmandu on August 24. In September they did several treks and acclimatisation hikes in the region nearby Raksha Urai. Their highest point reached was 6000m on an unnamed peak. An earthquake happened on October 2 when they were trekking towards Raksha Urai base camp. There were several aftershocks after the earthquake and the team decided to abort their expedition before they reached BC.


expid: RATC23301
peakid: RATC
year: 2023
route1: W Face
nation: France
leaders: Maud Vanpoulle
sponsor: Ticino Treks Ratna Chuli Expedition 2023
approach: Besisahar->Koto->BC
bcdate: 2023-10-11
smtdate: 2023-10-27
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2023-10-29
othersmts: Summited Hulang Go (HUGO-233-01) and Upche Dada (6150m)
campsites: BC(11/10,4700m),C1(13/10,5600m),C2(20/10,6000m),Smt(27/10)
achievment: 1st ski descents of RATC, HUGO and Upche Dada; 1st ascent of HUGO
agency: Ticino Treks
routememo:
  Approach: KTM, Besisahar, Koto

  BC   11/10  4700m
  C1   13/10  5600m at the foot of a “glacier tongue”
  C2   20/10  6000m at upper Hulang Glacier

  Smts see details for each peak below 

  Left BC on 29 Oct.

  Routes:
    NNE Ridge of Upche Dada
    SW Face of HUGO
    W  Face of RATC

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used

  •  Upche Dada (6150m): 1st recorded ascent and 1st ski descent via the NNE Ridge.

  For its acclimatization, the group chose to climb the 6150m Upche Dada via its NNE Ridge.

  13 Oct: group went up to C1 for sleeping, further staying there a day more.

  15 Oct: from C1, the group made a round trip to the top on skis. The NNE Ridge faced most of time 30° steep slopes. Only the last summit ridge section would prove to be steeper, with two 50m sections at 40°, the ridge becoming more sharper as they would near the summit. In any case, they could stay on the skis all the way to the top. With a nice powder snow, the group enjoyed a nice ski descent. It was back to BC on the same day.

  Meanwhile, Bastien Levy hadn’t joined the group, having contracted a beginning of AMS. He went back down to BC on his own during that day.

  From there the group rested 3 days at the BC, with snowfall every day.

  •  HUGO: 1st ascent of the mountain via the SW Face, 1st ski descent.

  19 Oct: group went up to C1.

  20 Oct: group went up to C2, located on the glacier plateau of the upper Hulang Glacier. On the way up, they had had two glaciers’ options: one coming down from the circa 6000m plateau, the other one from the 6374m peak lying more to the south. The group eventually chose the second one to go up.

  Group put skis on from 5800m, going up throughout 35 to 40° slopes in correct snow; it just needed to take skis off for a 20m section.

  21 Oct: group went 600m up throughout the icefall giving access to Ratna Chuli’s West Face, then it went back down to C2 for sleeping.

  22 Oct: group went up to Hulang Go. Starting at circa 7 am from C2, it first went down gently westwards on the plateau of the upper Hulang Glacier. Then it went up via its SW Face’s most leftward part towards the summit. In the face it would meet with hard snow conditions, even ice sometimes. Went up on the skis for a first part (“better on skis than on the feet”), then took skis off for crampons, eventually climbing a last 300m section consisting in a slope of circa 45-50° steepness. With some good ice at the end, group eventually reached the top at circa noon.

  For the ski descent, the group chose a slightly different line lying further in the West Face: that option would prove to offer a better snow quality than on the way up.

  Team was back at 3 pm at C2, then at BC on the same day. During the descent, they left their skis at 5800m, walking down from there in ski shoes, then sneakers.

  •  RATC: 1st ski descent of the West Face.

  25 Oct: team was back at C1.

  26 Oct: C1 to C2.

  27 Oct: 1st ski descent of RATC.

  Group started at 2 am in cold conditions. With the trail previously broken in the 600m icefall, group first went up on skis through a section prone to serac fall risk, then mostly with crampons and ice axes. Having reached the top of the icefall at sunrise (circa 5:30-6 am), group went down 200m to the 6412m col lying down to the final section, leaving there an emergency tent and boiler.

  From there, they would just take their daily bag and down jackets to go for the final section. Until the rimaye, the group went up on skis; from there, it went up on crampons, with the last 400m in sustained 45° slope. Group eventually reached the top at circa 10:30 am.

  With a few variants, the group skied down by the same line. They reached C2 at circa 3:30-4 pm, then BC at circa 7 pm. During the descent, they dismantled both their C1 and C2.


expid: ROLK23301
peakid: ROLK
year: 2023
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Yuri Koshelenko
sponsor: 7 Summits Club Rolwaling Khang Expedition 2023
approach: Chhetchhet, Na, Trakarding, Drolambau to bottom part Tashi Lapcha
bcdate: 2023-10-14
smtdate: 2023-10-23
smttime: 0900
campsites: BC(14/10,5400m),ABC(19/10),Biv1(20/10,5700m),Biv2(21/10,6250m),Biv3(22/10,6550m),Smt(23/10,6645m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Team left high camp at 7 am on 23 Oct, summited at 9 am, stayed about 30 minutes, then descended to ABC at about 8 pm.

  We did first ascent on the East Summit Rolwaling Kang, right name I think Rolwaling Khang Shar 6645m. We did climb on the SE contrfort, weather been good, but very cold.


  From 7 Summits Club:

  Yuri Koshelenko and Alexey Lonchinsky named the route of the first ascent on the summit of Rowling Khang Shar "Katana"

  http://7summitsclub.com/news/all/item_16472/

  On October 23, at 9 o'clock Nepali time, Yuri Koshelenko and Alexey Lonchinsky made the first ever ascent on the summit of Rolwaling Kang Shar, with a height of 6645 meters. The length of the route is about 1800m. Three bivouacs. To ABC from the base under the Tashi Lapcha Pass is an 8-hour walk along the Talomban glacier [Dolombao]. "The buttress consists of destroyed granite, it is good that it is fused with ice in many places." 

  Yuri Koshelenko (mountain.ru): The route "Katana" to Rolvaling Kang Shar, why katana, yes, because it is associated with duty, with the harsh rules of military valor. "Katana" is a samurai sword...

  When Alexey and I entered climbing mode, we managed to get out of it only after reaching the top. If I was the first to work on Fang in our previous first ascent, then Alexey was in the lead on this route for the entire rocky part. He was very good at passing long intricate sections of rocks.

  Alexey brought with him a completely new Vento equipment, skillfully used it, showed a high level of climbing technique. Sections 5 and 5 + k. sI. M4, M5. We all went free climbing, without using fixed ropes. I happened to be the first to climb on the day of reaching the top through complex conglomerates of crests and mushrooms from icicles and empty snow.


expid: SPH623301
peakid: SPH6
year: 2023
route1: N Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Takahiro Kaneko
sponsor: Japan Alpine Club Himalaya Camp 2023
approach: Taplejung->Ghunsa->Kambachen
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to impassible crevasse
othersmts: Held permit for Sato (no attempt)
campsites: BC(4500m),C1,C2(5600m),xxx(6000m)
agency: Khangri Trek
routememo:
  Initial Plans:

  Team will try two First Ascents on Sharphu VI and Sato Peak. They'll first attempt Sharphu VI and afterwards head to nearby Sato Peak. Both peaks are located nearby the lodges of Kambachen. All members are going to attempt Sharphu. After Sharphu climb, Hanatani will leave the team and head back to Japan earlier. The three remaining members will go on to attempt Sato.


expid: SURM23301
peakid: SURM
year: 2023
route1: N Face (up),NE Ridge (down)
nation: UK
leaders: Paul Ramsden
sponsor: British Surma-Sarovar Expedition 2023
ascent1: 1st
countries: Ireland
approach: Chainpur->Talkot->Seti Khola->Salimor Khola
bcdate: 2023-10-12
smtdate: 2023-10-26
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2023-10-29
othersmts: Attempted South Summit of SURM (by Frost and Glenn)
agency: Himalayan Guides
campsites:
  BC1(2/10,3750m),Biv1(23/10,5300m),Biv2(24/10,6000m),Biv3(25/10,6300m),Smt(26/10),Biv4(26/10,6540m,),Biv5(27/10,5800m)

routememo:
  From Climbing Magazine:

  On October 26, UK-based climbers Tim Miller and Paul Ramsden reached the summit of Surma-Sarovar, an unclimbed 6605-meter peak in a remote corner of Nepal. The climb, which ascended the 2100-meter North Face, was graded “extremely difficult” (ED), a terse grade that feels appropriate for the duo’s proudly minimalist climbing style. The route lacked any “cutting edge” technicality but proved challenging due to the altitude, long and convoluted approach, and unfavorable weather and snow conditions.

  “Just getting to the bottom of the mountain and managing the gorge was difficult,” Miller told @joshlaskin. “And there’s all these river crossings. Just doing anything in the valley is really hard.”



  Approach: Chainpur, Talkot, Seti Khola, Salimor Khola

  BC   ~12/10  circa 3750m
  Biv1  23/10  5300m
  Biv2  24/10  6000m
  Biv3  25/10  6300m
  Smt   26/10  by both members at noon
  Biv4  26/10  near summit
  Biv5  27/10  5800m

  Left BC on 29 Oct.

  Route: NW Face up; traverse down the summit ridge to the E, then down the N Face’s left side, then the main NE Ridge of the mountain, then on the NW flank down to the valley.

  Oxygen:  not taken, not used
  Records: 1st ascent of SURM
  Other peaks: South Summit of SURM

  Accidents: frostbite on the left hand’s little finger for Ramsden, which will necessitate amputation of the first phalanx.


  •  Approach (whole team)

  From KTM by flight to Dhangadhi (to the far southwest of Nepal). From Dhangadhi by drive to Chainpur (“there’s an airport there, yet being not much reliable!”). With a further half-day drive to the end of the road at Talkot.

  In this far southwest area of Nepal, Paul mentions that inhabitants seemed like to have never seen any westerners!

  From there, they started the trek up the Seti Khola. With some delays due to the earthquakes and police stops in consequence, they eventually reached their BC after 9 days of trekking.


  (I)  Ramsden-Miller on Surma Sarovar North

  All-in-all, the duet had a 6-week trip, being busy almost all the time.

  SURM on the permitted list has the real advantage to be credited with the South Summit altitude (6397m), which makes it not necessitating a liaison officer!

  •  Approach and 1st ascent and traverse of SURM (6564m) in alpine-style.

  The BC lies at the crossroad of the main Salimor Khola with the Gaisar Khola (the latter going through the SSW), precisely when the first one starts to form a deep gorge which consists in steep flanks with some vertical walls straight above the talweg. Such section meant no slipping at all, so that porters wouldn’t go through it.

  The duet had a 7-day roundtrip to get through that deep gorge, first finding a trail on its left bank (north side of the river), then crossing twice the river. From there, they had a first overview of the west flank of SURM allowing to select their future line of ascent. At the footstep of the NW Face they also made a gear deposit.

  Then they got further up in a SSW direction in the valley to the 5245m col for acclimatizing, staying up there for 2 days. From there they could enjoy beautiful views of the peaks around with jungle to the south. Then they went back down to the base camp. At the latter, the duet took 2 days of rest.

  21-22 Oct: BC to the footstep of the route.

  23 Oct: actual start of the climb at 4500m, first bivy at 5300m after climbing almost the first half of the main corridor.

  24 Oct: 5300m to 6000m (circa), by a traverse rightwards to a secondary snowy couloir, until reaching the footstep of the rocky barrier.

  25 Oct: 6000m to circa 6300m throughout the aforementioned rocky barrier (mixed ground difficulties essentially, crux of the route).

  26 Oct: duet reached the top at noon, their GPS showing 6605m. Since the summit was in the clouds, they decided to wait for the next day for seeing the best route to follow for the descent. Thus they bivouacked about 20m down to the top.

  27 Oct: they started the descent down the North Face’s left side, then made a bivouac at circa 5800m on the NE Ridge of the mountain.

  28 Oct: after following the NE Ridge section, they went from point 5542m (Finn Map) NW-wards through screes flanks back to the valley. On the same day they were back to BC at 9 pm (“long day!”).

  Duet met with bad weather almost every day during the climb, with no comfortable bivouac places, very cold and very humid (“all wet”) weather conditions. Down to the acclimatization col to the south are jungles already, with humidity coming from that low part of the country.

  29 Oct: knowing they had to be back at the airport on 4 Nov, team trekked back continuously for circa 6 days, car drive included.

  04 Nov: plane from Dhangadhi to KTM.


  (II) Frost-Glenn on Surma Sarovar South

  https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/in_focus/nepals_wild_west-15624?fbclid=IwAR0j9zVDl4aLLqqybEBlcd6bOqLTEAxMtzZ7K3cSjag5EqxGyxKKuyu7n5o

  •  Attempt of the NW Face of the Peak 6054m NNW fore-summit

  Meanwhile from the same BC, Brits Hamish Frost and Matt Glenn first tried the NW Face of a peak (6054m on the Finn Map) located south to the BC. The line was the obvious gully amid of the face.

  On day 1, they were stopped when the line ran out of ice. Then during the night, their tent was crushed by spindrift, which took some of their psyche away. On day 2 they came back down to BC.

  •  Attempt of the South Summit of SURM (6397m) by its South Ridge (Glenn/Frost)

  In a second time, they tried for the unclimbed South Summit (6397m) of SURM via its S Ridge.

  After having reached the latter plus crossed a kilometre of it, they were stopped below the final slope down to the 6390m subsidiary SE Summit by avalanching and dangerous conditions of snow cornice.

  Enroute for the top, they had found some old remnants of fixed ropes which after examination on their side happen to belong to an old British attempt of 1974 (JETH-741-01) led by Alastair Kellas (that expedition should be listed as SURM and not JETH).

  https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216016

  The duet reached BC on the same day as Ramsden/Miller (28 Oct), having previously reached its high point on the 27 Oct.


expid: SURM74101
peakid: SURM
year: 1974
route1: S Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Alastair Kellas
sponsor: British Nepalese Expedition 1974
approach: Seti Khola->Salimor Khola
bcdate: 1974-04-17
smtdate: 1974-05-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6250m due to deep snow and bad weather
campsites: BC(17/04,4000m),C1.ABC(20/04,4900m),C2(28/04,5800m),C3(08/05,6100m),xxx(19/05,6250m)
routememo:
  From AAJ description of the approach march by Kellas, the team must have been on the S Ridge of Jethi Bahurani (6850m), not Rokapi.

  Note: A 2023 British expedition to Surma-Sarovar discovered remnants of the 1974 Jethi Bahurani attempt on the south side of Surma-Sarovar South (6387m), indicating that the 1974 team was on Surma-Sarovar South, not Jethi Bahurani.


  Kellas - 16 Oct 2002 (by email)

  I'm certain that if the base camp site and peak configuration are correct, then we went north from the col (just before it actually) and got within about 1000 ft from the summit but quite a long horizontal distance. [Thus climbed South Ridge of Jethi Bahurani?] 

  We had no oxygen with us.

  Our Sherpa went above base camp to our advanced base on the glacier below where the climbing started.

  Tom Leppart is the same age as me, i.e. 58 now. Denis Edwards is about 6 years younger but I haven't seen him since before we left for the expedition, he never made it to base camp!


  Kellas - 10 June 74

  Every day getting snow from 11 am onwards. On 27th had avalanche. Snow kept building up on us. We were in retreat on 27th; had gone up on 25th for possible to summit via biv, but 4 feet of snow on 26th and weather main reason for not success.

  Illness: Barron 3 weeks thumb and Leppart staggered about with bad stomach.

  More difficult then expected, knife-edge ridge. Never got more than 500 ft vertical above C3, horizontal distance perhaps as much as a mile. Figured could hence reached summit from a 4th camp at 21,500 ft. By time reached C2 had used up almost all our fixed rope.

  Of 43 days, 8 snow-free. Not 100% sure what mountain were on. Were on a south ridge from Nampa;  this ridge has several summits. Summit working towards was about 22,000 ft and could have been Rokapi (22,441 ft) or a summit just south of it.

  Barry Smith in Bhairawa enroute to Delhi.


  Shrestha, MFA - 7 June 74

  Members of British Nepal expedition returning without success due to bad weather.


  Mrs Barron - 2 June 74

  Nampa: As on 27 May had gotten above C3 along ridge but not far enough to make C4. Very difficult climbing and weather bad with snow every afternoon. May make C4 but probably not summit. 

  Mr Barron left BC 27 May.


  Letter from BC May 11th:

  On the mountain the climbing has turned out much more difficult than expected and we had to use up nearly 1600 ft of fixed rope (most of our supply) to reach C2 at 19,000 ft. This camp was established by all fine of us on April 28th.

  We then had 10 days when it snowed every afternoon, sometimes heavily. We carried on making the route above C2 using another 750 ft of fixed rope to reach the ridge which leads in about 2 miles to the summit. The ridge is very narrow and corniced and as route climbs steep ice on the windward side, slow work. Eventually the weather became better and C3 was reached at around 20,000 ft on May 8th by Bob and Barry Smith. Since then the weather has been atrocious with very heavy snow down at base camp. It looks better today and Barry and I are going up tomorrow. We hope to establish a C4 in 3 days or so and then make an attempt on the summit. We feel very much at the mercy of the weather.
   
  One important point I forgot to mention is that we are now and have really been for the last 10 days, effectively a 3-man team only. John Barron has been confined to base camp for the last 10 days with sceptic thumb and Tom Leppert, although he has been on the mountain, has got stomach trouble. I don't suppose you ever heard from our doctor!


  20 April Kellas to Cheney:

  We couldn't get far enough up the Salimor Khola to get at Bobaye, as we are attempting (virgin untried) peak.

  Rokapi (22,441 ft): it looks very difficult and success will depend very much on the weather.


  Emil Wick - 7 April 74

  Nampa: everybody there yesterday and today. 4 landings at Bajang to airlift Nampa expedition from Bhairawa.


  Barry Smith - 5 April 74

  Kellas and Smith leave KTM tomorrow with LO and 1 Sherpa cook on Pilatus Porter to airlift baggage ex-Bhairawa to Bajang. Others left KTM in lorry several days ago.

  Base Camp will be on Salimor Khola; a mile or so from junction with Seti River, southeast of Nampa.


  Kellas - 26 March 74

  6 members, all British, 3 climbers at Bhairawa.

  Nampa South Peak - 21,500 ft and no Sherpas.
  Left UK 22 Feb, arrived Bhairawa 25 March (5-6 days in NDH).


  (Nampa South Peak)

  Leader: Ali Kellas
  Peak (no official name) is 1-1/2 miles south of Nampa.


expid: TUKU23301
peakid: TUKU
year: 2023
route1: NW Ridge?
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
sponsor: Paulo Grobel Tukuche Expedition 2023
countries: Belgium
approach: Jomsom->Marpha->Yak Kharka->Dhampus Pass
bcdate: 2023-10-02
smtdate: 2023-10-08
termdate: 2023-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to high winds
campsites: BC(02/10,5186m),C1(07/10,5000m),xxx(08/10,6000m)
agency: Himalayan Travellers Nepal
routememo:
  Approach: Jomsom, Marpha, Yack Kharka, Dhampus Pass (5244m)

  BC  02/10  5186m

  For Tukuche :
  C1  07/10  5500m

  For Phurba Kang
  C1  10/10  5660m
  C2  12/10  6300m
  C3  14/10  6050m
  Smt  see details of climb

  Left BC on 15 Oct

  Route: 
    SSE Ridge of Sanu Phurba
    SSE Ridge of Phurba Kang
    “Rigsum Gompo traverse” by peaks 6292m (“Chenrezi”), 6264m (“Manjushri”) 
       and 6072m (“Cima Giannetti”) on the ESE Ridge

  Oxygen:  not taken not used
  Records: 1st link up of all the peaks?
  Other peaks: Peaks 6339m, 6419m, 6292m, 6264m and 6072m

  Accidents: fall into a crevasse for Paulo.

  Details of climb:

  Had a permit for Tukuche, but with wrong weather conditions (strong west wind), the team abandoned its initial project for other sheltered peaks to the north.

  Hired: 5
    Dipen Nuppa Bhote
    Sonam Sherpa
    Dugchong Bhote
    Anil Rai (not the one in the HD)
    Wanda Sherpa/Bhote

  •  Tukuche attempt: 

  The team first aimed for Tukuche, but the west winds were too strong for an attempt so that the team switched to another project.

  The team (6+5) slept at C1 (5500m) on Oct 7. On the day after they stopped just before C2 at 6000m. Back to BC on Oct 9.

  •  Phurba Kang and “Rigsum Gompo” traverse:

  Instead, with 3 camps and in alpine-style they climbed the kind of horseshoe of snowy ridge skyline peaks lying east to Hongde and Mukot (peaks 6339m, 6419m, 6292m, 6264m).

  10 Oct: walk up to C1, down to “Sanu Phurba”. All slept here except Dugchong Bhote who touched C1 then went back to BC.

  11 Oct: up to C2 to fairy load and down to C1.

  Bernard decided to stop here, going back down to BC on his own the same day.

  12 Oct: up to C2 for sleeping. A magnificent camp “above the clouds” lying atop of the 6339m christened “Sanu Phurba”.

  Anil Rai made a deposit and also went back down BC.

  13 Oct: ascent of Phurba Kang (6419m) by its SSE Ridge in a roundtrip from C2. First the members went up unroped, then roped as the slope got steeper: Dipen roped with Jan, Sonam with Kin, Paulo with Isa. They reached the summit at 11 am, then back to C2 at 2 pm where they would sleep (3h up, 2h down).

  Dipen Nuppa Bhote went back down to BC on the same day. Wanda Sherpa/Bhote come up to sleep at C2 ant to help Jan.

  To be noticed that Phurba Kang alternative name is “Hongde Shar” (Jurgalski), sorting it as climbed already by a Japanese team on 7 October 1969.

  14 Oct: Jan, being tired, and Wanda went directly back down to the BC on this day.

  Meanwhile, for the remaining 4 members (Kimn and Sonam, Paulo and Isa), day started with the traverse northwards, down the East Face of Sanu Phurba, to join the 6134m col. After 15mn walk, Paulo fell in a thin crevasse, hurting his chest, but he decided to resume the ascent. The 30° access slopes to the cwm were prone to slab avalanche, but nothing occurred, happily.

  Then on the glacier, deep snow yet with visible crevasses didn’t ease the progression. After a simple rimaye crossed, the team touched the ridge, soon reaching the first of the three peaks of the “Rigsum Gompo traverse” (“the three protectors”): peak 6292m (“Chenrezi”).

  From then the traverse went smoothly, yet a bit windy and with heavy bags. They had to climb two small snow pitches before reaching peak 6264m (“Manjushri”). On descent of the latter, the team reached a large flat area down to Peak 6072m at 4 pm, making it its C3.

  *To be noticed that in 2021 from the east side, Isa and Dipen had already topped Manjushri (6264m) and Alain Giannetti had attempted peak 6072m (now christened “Cima Giannetti”).

  15 Oct: Team had to negotiate the numerous crevasses on the summit glacier of “Cima Giannetti”, then it went smoothly back down to BC in the Hidden Valley.

  At the BC where they found back Bernard, Hughes and Jan, they had the surprise to see that the whole team was starting to remove the BC on the other side of Dhampus Pass (because the donkies would not cross Dhampus Pass to pick up the equipment).

  16 Oct: the team left BC to Marpha (directly) and Isabelle, Paulo & Wanda crossed again Dhamphus Pass to do a camp in the Hidden Valley and do the Round Dhaulagiri Trek.


expid: YANS23301
peakid: YANS
year: 2023
route1: E Face
nation: Ecuador
leaders: Oswaldo Freire Cartagena
sponsor: 14 Peaks Dhagpache Expedition 2023
countries: USA
bcdate: 2023-10-26
smtdate: 2023-10-28
smttime: 1909
termdate: 2023-10-29
campsites: BC(26/10,5100m),Smt(28/10)
achievment: 1st ascent of E Face
agency: 14 Peaks Expedition
routememo:
  Team set out from C1 at 23:05 on 27 Oct, summited at 19:09 pm on 28 Oct.

  Weather was very good, clear and low wind. Very cold until sun reached us. The route name is "Between Fairies and Unicorns," done by Joshua Jarrin and Ossy Freire in 29 hours, 19 minutes.

  Grades:
    ED
    M4+
    WI5+ 90°


