# exped

expid: EVER16118
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Garrett Madison
sponsor: Madison Mountaineering Everest Expedition 2016
countries: Argentina, India, New Zealand, UK
bcdate: 2016-04-12
smtdate: 2016-05-19
smttime: 0646
termdate: 2016-05-22
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),C1(19/04,6000m),C2(20/04,6400m),C3(16/05,7200m),C4(17/05,7950m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  12/04  5350m
  C1  19/04  6000m
  C2  20/04  6400m
  C3  16/05  7200m
  C4  17/05  7950m
  Smt 19/05  by Schauer, Lumberg, Nugent, Pemba Sherpa, KB Thapa Magar and another 
             Sherpa at 6:46 am, Erskine, Phurba Sherpa at 7:45, Madison, Perks, 
             Mingma Dorje Sherpa and his brother [Pasang] 8:05, White, Ang Phurba, 
             Lakpa at 8:10, Glasbrenner (1st American amputee), Lakpa Sherpa and
             one other Sherpa 8:36, Bahl, Lhakpa Bhote, Karma Sherpa at 10:25,
             Bliss at 10:35, Bishop and Alldrege at 10:40.

  Schauer, Lumberg and Nugent left C4 at 7 pm and the rest of the summit team left at 10 pm. Straightforward climb. The group spent between 10 and 30 minutes on the summit. They descended to C4 where they arrived at around 2 pm. On 20 May they descended to C2 and 21 May to BC.

  De Santos reached C2 on 20 April. He had pulmonary edema and left BC helicopter on 25 April.

  Girard reached C2 on 20 April. He did not acclimatize well and left BC by helicopter on 25 April.

  Stewart reached BC on 12 April. He did not acclimatize as he came too late and had problems despite having used a hypoxic tent previously.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C2 to summit to C2 by members; 
    C4 to summit to C4 by Sherpas


expid: EVER16119
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Oscar Todd
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Everest Expedition 2016
bcdate: 2016-04-14
smtdate: 2016-05-13
smttime: 0834
termdate: 2016-05-15
campsites: BC(14/04,5300m),C1(20/04,6000m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(11/05,7200m),C4(13/05,8000m),Smt(13/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Todd and Pasang Dawa left C3 on 12 May at 22:30, summited on 13 May at 8:34 am, stayed 2 minutes (just long enough to take 3 photos in a white-out), then descended to C4 arriving at 14:30. They climbed the night of 12 May and did not spend the night at C4 until our descent from the summit. Strong winds. Fresh very soft snow on route meaning trail had to be broken. Very heavy clouds and poor visibility. Clouds lifted at approx 09:00 (on our descent and 30 mins after we had summited).

  Oxygen:
    Todd used oxygen on the ascent from C3 (7200m) and during summit day and
    returned to C4 with the remainder. Used it in the tent until it ran out then,
    descended from C4 without any further use of oxygen.
    Sherpas used from C3 to smt to C4.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Dawa, 40


expid: EVER16128
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Norway
leaders: Siv Harstad
sponsor: Aim Lofty Everest Expedition 2016
countries: Thailand
approach: Island Peak->Chhukung Ri
bcdate: 2016-04-22
smtdate: 2016-05-19
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2016-05-23
campsites: BC(22/04,5350m),C1(24/04,6000m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(03/05,7300m),C4(18/05,7950m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Tseringma Treks (Himalayan Guides pmt)
routememo:
  Harstad along with Kili Pemba and Dawa Tenzing left C4 on 18 May at 9 pm, summited on 19 May at 9:30 am. Straightforward ascent. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit. When Harstad was on the summit she started to notice the first symptoms of snowblindness. She did not see anything anymore on the South Summit and the Sherpas help her descent by rappelling or guiding her down. They stayed at C4, where they arrived at 10 pm.

  The following day she used eye drops and it improved, but Harstad and Kili Pemba stayed an extra night on the South Col. On 21 May to C2 and 22 Ma, back to BC.

  [Later Harstad described her vision problems as hypoxic corneal edema (edema in the eye due to lack of oxygen and the wearing of contacts) after consultation with an altitude physician and her optician.]

  Oxygen:
    From C3 to top to C2 by Harsted
    From C3 to top to C4 by Sherpas

  Sherpas:
    Kili Pemba (Kilu Pemba), Beding, 15/05/1980 
    Dawa Tenzin (Dawa Tenji), Beding, 31/10/1975 (given by Harstad)
    Dawa Phurten, Hatiya (as per summit certificate given by Ministry)

  Harstad had plans to climb Lhotse afterwards, but did not attempt to it, due to her vision issues.

  Napassaporn Chumnarnsit and Khomrat Pichitdej are listed on the Himalayan Guides permit and climbed with Harstad, so are included with this team. Chumnarnsit originally planned to climb Everest from the north, but at the last moment decided to climb from the south and joined with Harstad using the same agency Tseringma Treks. Dawa Tenzing was supposed to be climbing with Khomrat Pichitdej, then went to the summit with Harstad carrying oxygen after he dropped out.

  Chumnarnsit summited along with Pemba [Pema Chhhiring] Sherpa, Siv Harstad and her two Sherpas on 19 May at 9:45 am.


expid: EVER16121
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Phil Crampton
sponsor: Altitude Junkies Everest Expedition 2016
countries: Australia, Guatemala, S Africa, USA
bcdate: 2016-04-09
smtdate: 2016-05-19
smttime: 0330
termdate: 2016-05-24
campsites: BC(09/04,5350m),C1(25/04,6100m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(16/03,7100m),C4(17/05,7950m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Expedition Himalaya
routememo:
  BC  09/04  5350m
  C1  25/04  6000m
  C2  26/04  6400m	
  C3  16/05  7100m
  C4  17/05  7900m
  Smt 19/05  by Darlington Benjamin, Darlington Laura, Kay, Padilla, Turner, 
             Pasang Wangchu, Wangdi Sherpa, Sange, Pemba Chhiri, Pasang Nima, 
             Mingma Nuru, Sange, Namgyal, Sonam Chhiring, Kami Sherpa between 
             4:30 am and 9:30 am [plus two kitchen boys].

  Entire team at South Col on the evening of 17 May. Weather too bad and too windy for summit on 18 May, so they stayed another night at South Col.

  Summit team left C4 at 9 pm on 18 May. Straightforward climb. They stayed for about half an hour and everyone down to C4 the same day. The following day everyone down to C2 and then BC on 21 May.

  Kay felt unwell on the descent and he deteriorated at the South Col. The Sherpas helped him down and he was evacuated from C2; see blog at:  

    www.climbwithstarcity.blogspot.com

  Crampton and Dellis reached South Col. On morning of 18 May, Crampton descended with Dellis and Karma Gyalgen Sherpa as Dellis was coughing up blood (HAPE). They went to C2 and on 19 May descended to BC. Dellis was evacuated on 21 May.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to summit to C2 by members and Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Wangchu (Pasang Ongchhu), Cheremy, Bung, 25/04/1987
    Wangdi Sherpa, Taplejung, Phungling-6, Suketar, 1988
    Sange, Sotang-6, Solukhumbu, 20/09/1973
    Pemba Chhiri Sherpa, Solukhumbu
    Pasang Nima, Chaurikharka, 28/01/1974
    Pasang Karma, Lokhim-9, 15/05/1985
    Mingma Nuru, Namche-4, Samshing, 2041/18/06
    Karma Gyalzen (Karma Geljen), Surke, Khumbu, 26/09/1971 [bio in error]
    Temba, Sotang-6, Solukhumbu, 04/09/1977
    Sange, Gaurishankar-2, 29/01/80 (2036/15/02)
    [Pasang] Namgyal, Khiraule, Bung-9, Solukhumbu, 25/09/1971 [DOB in error]
    Sonam Chhiring, Waku-4, Solukhumbu, 05/08/1991
    Kami Tshering, Pangboche, 20/04/62

  Summiting kitchen boys;
    Pasang Lakpa (Maila), Lokhim -4, Solukhumbu
    Phurba Lakpa, Bung-9, Solukhumbu


  Lysle Turner - 29 March 2017

  Pasang Nima and Sonam summited with me at 3:30 am. The rest of the team summited much later, I would say around 10:30 am.


expid: EVER16124
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Ben Jones
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Everest Expedition 2016
bcdate: 2016-04-13
smtdate: 2016-05-19
smttime: 0945
termdate: 2016-05-22
campsites: BC(13/04,5350m),C1(20/04,6000m),C2(22/04,6400m),C3(16/05,7200m),C4(17/05,7950m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  BC  13/04  5350m
  C1  20/04  6000m
  C2  22/04  6400m
  C3  16/05  7200m
  C4  17/05  7950m
  Smt 19/05  by Jones, Loeb, Simoes, Phura Kancha Sherpa, Pasang Tendi at 9:45 am.

  Team left C4 at 9:30 pm on 18 May. Weather clear. Straightforward climb. They spent an hour on the summit, then descended to C4, where they arrived at 3 pm. On 20 May down to C2 and on 21 May to BC.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C2 to top to C2 by Loeb and Simoes, 
    C3 to top to C3 by Jones, 
    C4 to top to C4 by Phura Kancha and Pasang Tendi.

  Sherpas:
    Phura Kancha (Fur Kancha), Thami, 17/01/1977
    Pasang Tendi, Yilajung, 30/07/1988


expid: EVER16120
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Kari Kobler
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Everest Expedition 2016
countries: Germany, UK
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2016-04-17
smtdate: 2016-05-23
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2016-05-25
campsites: BC(17/04,4900m),ABC(24/04,6400m),C1(27/04,7000m),C2(21/05,7800m),C3(22/05,8300m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  BC  17/04  4900m
  ABC 24/04  6400m
  C1  27/04  7000m
  C2  21/05  7800m
  C3  22/05  8300m
  Smt 23/05  by Kobler and Pemba Sherpa at 7 am, Sieveking, Durack, Kusang Tenzing,
             Nuru Wangchu, Mingmar Dendi and Ang Kami at 8:30 am.

  Summit team left C3 at 10:30 pm on 22 May. Kobler was ahead of the pack and broke trail. Straightforward climb. They spent about 1 hour on the summit. Kobler and Durack descended to C1, where they arrived at 3 pm. Sieveking descended to C2. Sherpas descended to ABC. On 24 May they descended to BC.

  Schittich reached C1 on 27 April. She didn't cope well with the altitude and abandoned expedition. She stayed at BC for the rest of the expedition.

  Schuetz reached 8200m on 22 May; he felt exhausted and descended to C1 the same day.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C1 to top to C1 by members; C2 to top to C2 by Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba, Ghunsa, Lelep-9, Taplejung, 09/07/1982
    Kusang Tenzing, Ghunsa, Lelep-9, Taplejung, 16/05/1986
    Nuru Wangchu, Pangboche, 18/08/1977
    Lal Bahadur Tamang, Ramche-6, Rasuwa, 21/06/1983
    Ang Kami, Gudel-5, Solukhumbu, 21/08/1982
    Mingmar Dendi, Tapting-1, 22/02/84


expid: EVER16122
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Bill Allen
sponsor: Mountain Trip International Everest Expedition 2016
bcdate: 2016-04-14
smtdate: 2016-05-21
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2016-05-25
campsites: BC(14/04,5300m),C1(22/04,6100m),C2(24/04,6550m),C3(18/05,7300m),C4(19/04,7950m),Smt(21/05)
achievment: Father/daughter summiters
agency: Expedition Himalaya
routememo:
  Summit team left C4 on 20 May at 8:30 pm, summited on 21 May at 6:00 am, stayed 30-40 minutes, then descended to C4 at 11:30 am. Nice night, light winds, uncrowded. Clouds building early in the day.

  Greg Blasic suffered frostbitten fingers and toes; unknown until descent.

  Oxygen:
    Used from 6700m to top to 6700m.

  Sherpas:
    Da Ongchhu Sherpa, Kurima, Everest X6
    Karma Gelgen Sherpa, Kurima, Everest X3
    Tawa Sherpa, Kurima, Everest X3?


expid: EVER16126
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Manash Barooah
sponsor: Assam Everest Expedition 2016
approach: Lukla->Namche->Dingboche->Lobuje->EverBC
bcdate: 2016-04-14
smtdate: 2016-05-19
smttime: 0720
termdate: 2016-05-24
campsites: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(01/05,6000m),C2(03/05,6400m),C3(17/05,7300m),C4(18/05,7950m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  BC  14/04  5350m
  C1  01/05  6000m
  C2  03/05  6400m	
  C3  17/05  7300m
  C4  18/05  7950m
  Smt 19/05  by Das, Terran, Terang, Lhakpa Rangdu, Phurba Sherpa, 
             Phurba Tsering Sherpa at 7:20 am.

  On 18 May summit team started at 8 pm. Straightforward climb. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit, then descended to C4 at 2:30 pm (Terang) and the rest around 4 pm. 20 May to C2 and 21 May to BC. 

  Barooah reached C3 on 3 May. He felt tired and decided that he did not want to climb. During the summit push he stayed at C2 until 19 May.

  Chakraborty reached C3 on 03 May. He was too slow during the expedition and the leader decided that he should not try for the summit. He stayed at BC for the rest of the expedition.

  Sherpas;
    Lhakpa Rangdu, Sotang-6, Solukhumbu 18/11/1967
    Phurba, Sotang-6, Solukhumbu, 17/07/1982

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members, C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.

accidents:
  Phurba Tsering and Terran slight frostbite on fingers (1st degree); they were flown out to Kathmandu by heli on 22 May


expid: EVER16127
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Ranveer Singh Jamwal
sponsor: Indian Army Everest Massif Expedition 2016
countries: Nepal
bcdate: 2016-04-14
smtdate: 2016-05-19
smttime: 0615
termdate: 2016-05-27
othersmts: Attempted Lhotse (LHOT-161-02)
campsites: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(27/04,6100m),C2(28/04,6640m),C3(17/05,7100m),C4(18/05,7950m),Smt(19-20/05)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  First summit team of Jamwal, Rinzin Dorje, Hajari, Siva Kumar, Ankur Rawat, Dorjey Gyalson, Chandra Bahadur Thapa and seven Sherpas left C4 on 18 May at 7:30 pm. They summited on 19 May at 6:15 am. When they started it was very windy. Many people on the route. In the morning 37-knot winds came up. Straightforward climb. They spent about 45 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at 5:30 pm. Jamwal and CB Thapa descended to C4, where they arrived at 11:30 am. Jamwal was the expedition leader and stayed at the South Col to be there for the second summit team to arrive.

  The second summit team of Mirza Zahid Baig, Unnikannan, Arjun Kumar Thapa, Min Bahadur Tamang, Min Bahadur Rana, Pratap Singh, Umesh Rai and six Sherpas left C4 on 19 May at 8 pm and summited on 20 May at 6 am. Conditions were good, a bit of snow. In the morning it was windy and more snow. Visibility was Ok. They spent 35 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at 5 pm.

  Oxygen:
    From C3 to top to C3 by all members; from C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.


expid: EVER16123
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: David Hamilton
sponsor: Jagged Globe Everest Expedition 2016
countries: Ireland
bcdate: 2016-04-10
smtdate: 2016-05-13
smttime: 0848
termdate: 2016-05-17
campsites: BC(10/04,5350m),C1(20/04,6000m),C2(25/04,6650),C3(7200m),C4(12/05,7900m),Smt(13/05)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  BC  10/04  5350m
  C1  20/04  6000m
  C2  25/04  6650m
  C3  04/05  7200m
  C4  12/05  7900m
  Smt 13/05  by Waterman and Tamding Sherpa (8:48 am); Hamilton, Scannell, Talbot, 
             Pem Chhiri, Ang Ringi, Chhimi Lhenduk Gurung (1st time), Nima Gyalgen
             Sherpa at 9:45 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 9:30 pm on 12 May at 10:30 pm. Straightforward climb. Winds picked up at about 7 am. The team waited just below the south summit for the winds to abate. Winds dropped and continued. Team spent about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to C4 where they arrived at 1 pm. Following day to C2 and on 15 May everyone down at BC.

  Mitchell reached 7000m on 4 May. He felt he was unable to continue and turned back. He descended to C2 the same day.

  Parks reached 6800m (Bergschrund on bottom of Lhotse Face) on 29 April. Before he had gone to C2 his medical researcher had taken a blood sample, which was abnormal and indicated danger of heart attack or stroke. Parks descended to BC on 1 May, had another blood test and as it was still abnormal he decided to abandon his attempt, which would have been without supplemental oxygen. He left the expedition on 4 May.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members; from C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Pem Chhiri, Chanku-6, 18/02/80
    Ang Ringi, Chankhu-6, 02/04/1991 (Pem Chhiri’s brother)
    Tamtin (Thomting, Tamding), Beding, 19/12/1974	
    Nima Gyalzen, Beding, 09/08/85
    Chhimi Lhenduk Gurung, Chhoser-8, Mustang, 24/05/1986


expid: EVER16129
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Brazil
leaders: Carlos Eduardo Santalena
sponsor: Himalayan Ascent Everest Expedition 2016
countries: Myanmar
approach: Lukla->Namche->Dingboche->Lobuche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2016-04-11
smtdate: 2016-05-19
smttime: 0715
termdate: 2016-05-23
campsites: BC(11/04,5300m),C1(19/04,6300m),C2(30/04,6800m),C3(17/05,7300m),C4(18/05,8000m),Smt(19/05)
achievment: Win Ko Ko and Pyae Phyo Aung were the 1st summiters from that Myanmar
agency: Himalayan Ascent
routememo:
  Summit teams of Pyae Phyo Aung, Win Ko Ko, Carlos Santalena, Thais Pegoraro, Lopsang, Pasang Gyaljen, Phur Gyaljen, Ngima Tenzing and Fura Chhetan left C4 on 18 May at 8:30 pm. Win Ko Ko, Pyae Phyo Aung, Lopsang, Ngima Tenzing and Pasang Gyaljen got to the top at 7:15 am of 19 May. Santalena, Amadei Pegoraro, Phur Gyaljen and Fura Chhetan reached summit at 12:05 pm. The first team stayed on summit for about one hour and second team about 25 minutes. The first team descended to C4 at 1 pm and second team at 6 pm.

  Cid Vihate Ferrari Filho reached C2 on 28 April, the abandoned climb due to deep vain pain in left leg.

  Nyi Nyu Aung reached C3 on 17 May and displayed symptoms of AMS, so descended.

  Oxygen:
    Members from C3->summit->C3
    Sherpas from C4->summit->C4

  Sherpas:
    Lopsang Sherpa, Jubing-1, 27/06/1985
    Pasang Gyaljen Sherpa, Jubing-1, 15/05/1985
    Phur Gyaljen Sherpa, Bung-9, 21/08/1981
    Ngima Tenzing Sherpa, Phortse, 26/04/1991
    Fura Chhetan Sherpa, Phortse, 29/08/1990


expid: EVER16137
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Iran
leaders: Alireza Behpour
sponsor: Iranian Everest & Lhotse Expedition 2016
bcdate: 2016-04-18
smtdate: 2016-05-19
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2016-05-24
campsites: BC(18/04,5350m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(07/05,7100m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  BC  18/04  5350m
  C1   --     --
  C2  24/04  6400m
  C3  07/05  7100m
  C4  18/05  7900m.
  Smt 19/05  by Behpour, Lhakpa Tshering Sherpa at 11 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 10 pm on 18 May. Many people on the way. Cold night and windy. They spent about half an hour on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 5 pm. On 20 May they descended to C3. They were intending to go to C2, but with the bottlenecks on the Yellow Band and Geneva Spur they were too slow. On 21 May to BC.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from Yellow Band (7500m) to top to C4 by Behpour and Lhakpa 
      Tshering

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Tshering Sherpa, Khumjung, 15/06/1975


expid: EVER16131
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: John Doyle
sponsor: United Arab Emirites Armed Forces Everest Expedition 2016
countries: New Zealand, UAE, USA
bcdate: 2016-04-12
smtdate: 2016-05-19
smttime: 1040
termdate: 2016-05-22
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),C2(30/04,6450m),C3(02/05,7100m),C4(18/05,7950m),Smt(19/05)
accidents: Frostbite by Alblooshi on fingers and toes and Alzarooni on fingers (probably no amputation needed)
agency: Himalayan Holidays
routememo:
  BC  12/04  5350m
  C1   --     --
  C2  30/04  6450m
  C3  02/05  7100m
  C4  18/05  7950m
  Smt 19/05  by Doyle, Rasmussen, Aldurs, Alzarooni, Almazrouei, Moaath Alnaqbi,
             Aldhuhoori, Alblooshi, Hamdan plus eight Sherpas between 10:40 am and
             11:10 am. [10 Sherpas received summit certificates]

  Summit team with Whetu and Hasan Alnaqbi left C4 at 10 pm on 18 May. Straightforward climb. Stayed about 10 minutes on the summit, then descended to C4, where they arrived between 4 pm and 8 pm. On 20 May to C2; 21 May to BC.

  Mark Whetu reached the Balcony on 19 May and turned back due to cold feet.

  Hasan Alnaqbi reached the Balcony on 19 May. He turned back at about 2 am as he was feeling ill and descended to C2 the same day. 

  Oxley stayed at BC as base camp manager. Never intended to climb.

  Stewart reached C3 on 2 May. His father died and he left the expedition on 10 May.

  Altunaiji stayed at BC as he was the expedition doctor. Never intended to climb.

  Mohammed Alnaqbi stayed at BC as a base camp manager.

  Al-Ali, Almemari and Altamimi reached C3 on 2 May. They were the support team and never intended to summit.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to summit to C3 by members and Sherpas.


expid: EVER16132
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Fang Wen-Chao
sponsor: Chinese on Everest 2016
bcdate: 2016-04-15
smtdate: 2016-05-19
smttime: 0620
termdate: 2016-05-22
campsites: BC(15/04,5150m),C1(30/04,6100m),C2(6400m),C3(7100m),C4(8000m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Fang and Pasang Tshering left C4 on 18 May at 7:30 pm, summited on 19 May at 6:20 am, stayed 5 minutes, then descended to C4 arriving at 2 pm. The weather was very bad, windy...

  Oxygen:
    Used from 8000m

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Tshering, Thami, 42


expid: EVER16134
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Lukas Furtenbach
sponsor: Furtenbach Adventures Everest Expedition 2016
countries: Denmark, Estonia, Germany, Italy
bcdate: 2016-04-14
smtdate: 2016-05-19
smttime: 0250
termdate: 2016-05-23
campsites: BC(14/04,5280m),C2(26/04,6500m),C3(29/04,7200m),C4(17/05,7950m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  Summit team left C4 on 18 May at 7:15 pm. Summiters were:

    Summit 02:50 by Stocker, Tenji Sherpa (Brice)
    Summit 03:20 by Hager, Tenji (Phortse)
    Summit 06:15 by Furtenbach, Flaemig, Karma, Mingma & Ram Nurbu (brothers from
      Makalu) 
    Summit 06:30 by Ruch, Dorji Sherpa

  Weather was clear, but very cold. Wind from Balcony increasing and got very strong in the morning (around 50km/h gusts). The team was behind the Indian Army team, who were very slow. Some of the members were able to overtake them, others did not.

  Team spent 1-1/2 hours on the summit, then descended to C2.

  Jensen reached the Yellow Band (7800m) on 17 May. He had problems with his eyes and had very cold hands. He turned back and descended to C2.

  Krosing never reached BC. She had problems on the acclimatization trip on Island Peak and decided not to climb Everest.

  Schratt reached BC. He was already unwell on the trek in and flew out by helicopter within the first week of the expedition.

  Oxygen:
    From C3 to summit to C3 by members and Sherpas.

accidents:
  Stocker had frostbite on four toes of each foot; he was flown out by helicopter from C2 after the summit push


expid: EVER16135
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Paul Giorgio
sponsor: Sharing Everest Expedition 2016
bcdate: 2016-04-09
smtdate: 2016-05-22
smttime: 0240
termdate: 2016-05-26
campsites: BC(09/04,5350m),C1(15/04,6000m),C2(16/04,6500m),C3(08/05,7100m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(22/05)
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  BC  09/04  5350m
  C1  15/04  6000m
  C2  16/04  6500m
  C3  08/05  7100m
  C4  20/05  7900m
  Smt 22/05  by Pollard and Lhakpa Gyalzen at 2:40 am, Rinjin Bhote and Youbarj Nachhiring Rai (C2 cook for Mountain Madness) at 5 am.

  On 20 May the summit team and Giorgio reached C4. They intended to stay for two nights to do some filming up there. When they noticed that there was not enough oxygen for Rinjin Bhote and Youbarj Nachhiring Rai to summit, Giorgio agreed to give them his oxygen for the summit bid. He remained at C4 while the others went for the summit. 

  Summit team left C4 at 8 pm. Many people on the route. They stayed about 30 minutes on the summit, descended to C4 where they rested for 2 hours and then continued to C2, where they arrived at 6 pm. On 23 May to everyone down at BC.

  Giorgio reached 8550m just below the Balcony on 21 May. He did not intend to summit on that day as he only ventured out to film. His reason for not going for the summit was that he handed his oxygen to Youbarj Nachhiring Rai and Rinjin Bhote for them to summit.  

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top/high point to C4 by members and Youbarj Rai.
    From C4 to top to C4 by Rinzi and Lhakpa Gyalzen.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Gyalzen, Jubing, Solukhumbu, 24/01/1992
    Youbarj Nachhiring Rai, Aiselukharka-9, Khotang
    Rinjin Bhote, Hatiya-1, Sankhuwasabha


expid: EVER16136
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Gaurav Karki
sponsor: National Cadet Corps (NCC) Girls Everest Expedition 2016
countries: Nepal
bcdate: 2016-04-21
smtdate: 2016-05-21
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2016-05-26
campsites: BC(04/21,5350m),C1(28/04,6000m),C2(06/05,6400m),C3(19/05,7300m),C4(20/05,8000m),Smt(21-22/05)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  BC  21/04  5350m
  C1  28/04  6000m
  C2  06/05  6400m
  C3  19/05  7300m
  C4  20/05  8000m
  Smt 21/05  by Karki, Thapa Magar, Rathore, Balkar Singh, Tashi Laskit, Pooja
             Mehra, Dolker, Sulaxchana Tamang, Lalrintluangi and 5 Sherpas at 11 am.
  Smt 22/05  by Vishal Ahlawat (10:10 am), Tsering Angmo (7:40 am), Stanzin Laskit 
             (7:40 am), Dolyne Kharbhih (10:10), Kumari Nutan (10:10), Trishala 
             Gurung (7:40 am), Bishnu Bahadur Rana (8 am) and 7 Sherpas.

  21 May summit team left C4 at 9 pm on 20 May. The route was very busy. Straightforward climb. Stayed for one hour on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 6 pm. On 22 May descended to C2 and 23 May to BC.

  22 May summit team left at 9 pm on 21 May. Weather calm and clear. Conditions good. Straightforward climb. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit. They descended to C4, where they arrived on average at 6 pm. On 23 May down to C2. 24 May to BC. 

  Jagwant Singh reached the Balcony on 21 May. He was suffering from fever and diarrhea and turned back at 3 am. He descended to C4, where he rested and then to C3 the same day. 

  Prabhu Dayal Bisht sprained his ankle on the South Col on 20 May in the evening. He was Ok to walk on his own and descended to C2 on 21 May.	

  Baljeet Kaur reached reached between the Balcony and South Summit (8500m) on 22 May. Her oxygen mask had a fault and she did not feel well. Her Sherpa gave her his oxygen mask, but she descended to C4.

  Oxygen: 
    From C3 to top/high point to C3 by members
    From C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas


expid: EVER16130
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kenji Kondo
sponsor: Adventure Guides Everest Expedition 2016
approach: Pangboche->Lobuje East
bcdate: 2016-04-23
smtdate: 2016-05-19
smttime: 1115
termdate: 2016-05-24
othersmts: Attempted Lhotse (LHOT-161-07)
campsites: BC(23/04,5350m),C2(01/01,6400m),C3(17/05,7000m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(19/05)
accidents: Frostbite by Jitsukawa and Nishida
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC  23/04  5350m
  C1   --     --
  C2  01/05  6400m	
  C3  17/05  7000m
  C4  18/05  7900m
  Smt 19/05  by Ito, Kondo, Nishida, Hibino, Hamatsu, Purba Chhiri (2011), 
             Dawa Sangmu, Cheppa, Kitap, Da Kalsang between 11:15 am and 12:15 pm.

  Summit team left C4 at 11 pm on 18 May. Straightforward climb. Team spent about 15 to 30 minutes on the summit. Kondo met Kazuya Hiraide on the summit who came up from the North side. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 4 pm. On 20 May Everest team went down to C2 and on 21 May to BC.

  On 20 May Ito and Kondo descended to Lhotse C4 (for Lhotse attempt).

  Jitsukawa started at 8 pm from C4 on 18 May. He reached the south summit (8700m) and noticed frostbite on his fingers and in his eyes. He descended with Da Dendi to C4. They spent a night there and on 19 May they descended to C2, where Jitsukawa was picked up by helicopter and flown to Kathmandu on 20 May. Three fingers could be amputated on left hand.

  Nishida also got frostbite on left foot which he noticed at C2 and descended to BC on 21 May and was picked up by helicopter.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by all members.
    From C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Cheppa Sherpa, Sotang-6, Solukhumbu, 29/10/1983
    Phura Chhiri, Sakpharma, Lokhim, Solukhumbu, 22/04/1968
    Da Kalsang, Lhokim-9, Solukhumbu, 20/01/1986
    Kitap Singh Tamang, Deusa-6, Solukhumbu, 30/08/1976
    Dawa Sangmu Bhot,e Hatiya-3, Makalu-Barun, 06/09/1977


expid: EVER16125
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Mingma Gyalje Sherpa
sponsor: Dreamers Destination Everest & Lhotse Expedition 2016
countries: China, India
bcdate: 2016-04-19
smtdate: 2016-05-20
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2016-05-28
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-161-08)
campsites: BC(19/04,5350m),C1(04/05,6000m),C2(06/05,6200m),C3(08/05,7200m),C4(19/05,7925m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Dreamers Destination Treks
routememo:
  Summit team of Liu, Zhou and two Sherpas set out from C4 on 19 May at 8 pm. Mingma Gyalje and Ma left from Lhotse C4 (7800m) at 8 pm. Team spent about 15 minutes on the summit and everyone descended to C4, where they arrived at about 2 pm. Summit times were

    Liu Lei, Dakipa Sherpa at 6:30 am
    Zhou Hua, Phurba Tenzing Sherpa at 7:30 am 
    Mingma Gyalje and Ma at 10:50 am

  Mingma Gyalje and Ma stopped about 30-50m below the very top. [Summit prayer flags are behind the team further up the slope in summit photo. Team acknowledged in a now deleted Facebook post that they did not go to the very top.]

  Oxygen:
    From C3 to top to C3 by Chinese members, Sherpas from C4 to top to C4.

  Hired Sherpas:
    Dakipa (Dawa Kipa), Kharikhola, 06/12/1983 
    Phurba Tenzing, Beding, 23/05/1988

  Campsites for Chinese:
    BC(19/04,5350m),C1(04/05,6000m),C2(06/05,6200m),C3(08/05,7200m),C4(19/05,7925m),
      Smt(20/05)


  Bandbuche reached C4 on 19 May with Kaji Sherpa; however, Kaji had a throat infection and he descended to C2 on 20 May. Bandbuche stayed another night. Mingma Gyalje Sherpa arrived from Lhotse to join Bandbuche. On 21 May the two descended to C2 and on 23 May Mingma Gyalje and Bandbuche ascended to C3 and on 24 May to C4.

  At 10 pm  on 24 May they left C4 for the summit. It was very windy and very cold. They were on their own and the route was covered in snow and the rope was buried in the snow. Mingma Gyalje tried hard to retrieve the rope; however, it was too difficult and then they decided to turn back from 8250m at about 11:30 pm. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 1 am on 25 May. On 26 May to C2, then BC.

  Oxygen:
    Bandbuche from C3 to high point to C3 by Bandbuche.
    Mingma Gyalje did not use any oxygen.

  Campsites for Bandbuche:
    BC(19/04,5350m),C1(23/04,6000m),C2(24/04,6475m),C3(26/04,7100m),C4(19/05,8000m),
      xxx(24/05,8250m)


expid: EVER16138
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Iran
leaders: Mohammad Mohammadi
sponsor: Ariatouran (www.ariatouran.com) Everest Expedition 2016
bcdate: 2016-04-18
smtdate: 2016-05-19
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2016-05-24
campsites: BC(18/04,5350m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(07/05,7100m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  BC  18/04  5350m
  C1   --	    --
  C2  24/04  6400m
  C3  07/05  7100m
  C4  18/05  7900m
  Smt 19/05  by Mohammadi and Kalden Sherpa at 11.30 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 10 pm on 18 May. They climbed with Alireza Behpour also from Prestige Adventure. Many people on the way. Cold night and windy. They spent about half an hour on the summit. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 5 pm. On 20 May they descended all the way to BC.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Mohammadi and Kalden

  Sherpa:
    Kalden Phura, Pangboche, 27/02/1987


expid: EVER16139
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Africa
leaders: Ronnie Muhl
sponsor: Adventures Global Everest Expedition 2016
countries: Australia, USA
bcdate: 2016-04-11
smtdate: 2016-05-15
smttime: 0620
termdate: 2016-05-17
campsites: BC(11/04,5350m),C1(24/04,5900m),C2(25/04,6500m),C3(12/05,7100m(),C4(13/05,7900m),Smt(15/05)
agency: Dream Himalaya Adventures
routememo:
  Summit team of Snell, Roth, Farebrother, Lakpa, Lhakpa, Furi and Tendi Sherpa left C4 on 14 May at 9 pm, summited on 15 May at 6:20 am, stayed 10 minutes, then descended to C4 at 11:30 am. Snell was very tired and the team decided to stay at the South Col for a third night. The following day they went to BC where they arrived at 8:30 pm.

  Galat reached 7400m on 13 May; he was tired and decided to give up and descended to C2.

  Oxygen:
    C3 to summit to C2 by members.
    C4 to summit to C4 by Sherpas.


expid: EVER16140
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Hugo Searle
sponsor: High Adventure Expeditions Everest 2016
countries: Canada, USA
bcdate: 2016-04-24
smtdate: 2016-05-19
smttime: 0330
termdate: 2016-05-21
campsites: BC(24/04,5350m),C1(29/04),C2(01/05),C3(04/05,7200m),C4(18/05,8000m),Smt(19/05)
accidents: Searle fall into crevasse
agency: Happy Feet Mountaineers
routememo:
  Only Pemba Ngima went for the summit. He left C4 on 18 May at 7:30 pm, summited on 19 May at 3:30 am, stayed 3 hours, then descended to C2.

  Non-Summiting Members:
    Bill Driggs  8000m exhaustion 
    Ade Pettitt  7300m exhaustion 
    TA Loeffler  7200m HACE 
    Amit Kotecha 6800m AMS

  TA Loeffler got HACE descending from C2; she was helicoptered from C1 to KTM.

  Hugo Searle fell in a hidden crevasse and tore his calf muscle in icefall (reported to been blown into crevasse from blast from nearby avalanche).


expid: EVER16141
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: SW Face (Bonington rte)
nation: Slovakia
leaders: Vladimar Strba
sponsor: Everest Hardway Slovak Expedition 2016
approach: Lukla->Namche->Dingboche->Lobuche->Gorakhshep
bcdate: 2016-04-16
smtdate: 2016-05-09
termdate: 2016-05-10
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to eye injury suffered by Pal from small avalanche
campsites: BC(16/04,5350m),C1(21/04,6100m),C2(26/04,6500m),xxx(09/05,7200m)
accidents: Pal got visual problem at C3
agency: Utmost Adventure
routememo:
  Strba and Pal climbing the hard way in alpine-style on the SW Face of Everest. They were planning to push up to 7800m for their first biv, but had to stop at 7200m due to knee-deep snow conditions on the route and at that point started an avalanche. During night Pal started losing vision. They decided to wait for the morning to descend, then started snowing continuously causing very dangerous situation as they could not move up or down. They asked BC for help if heli-rescue could be done. Communication between them and BC took long time as the satphone and normal phone at BC connection was poor. They were informed that heli-rescue was not possible; rather BC sent a rescue team of four Sherpas from Seven Summit Treks. Meanwhile, Strba and Pal managed to leave the site at 4 am and they met the rescue team coming up at 6700m with ropes, sleeping bags, etc.; they did a good service. Around 9 am heli manage to lift them from C2 to hospital in Kathmandu.  


  From https://karakorumclimb.wordpress.com

  KATHMANDU: After more than 16 hours of struggle above 7000 metres on the Mt Everest, four Sherpas on Tuesday successfully rescued two foreign climbers who were trapped in an avalanche that struck the steep icy route on the world's highest peak.

  Four Sherpas – Mingma Gabu, Lakpa Thinduk, Ngima Dorchi and Ngima Wangdi – have conducted a rare rescue above the Camp II on the Mt Everest saving lives of Slovakian climbers Vladimir Strba and Zoltan Pal, according to climbers and officials.

  The climbers were trapped in an avalanche that hit the south-west face of Mt Everest at 7200 metres on early Tuesday morning.

  The Sherpas employed by Kathmandu-based Seven Summit Treks struggled throughout the day yesterday to bring the trapped climbers back to the Camp II from where they were airlifted to Kathmandu for treatment this morning.

  Both climbers who were trapped in the icy slope had struggled for their lives hanging on a safety screw and carabiners for several hours.

  "We had fixed the ropes (nearly 700 metres long) along the risky slope before bringing the climbers back to the safer place," the rescuers who put their lives at risk to save the climbers reacted.


expid: EVER16142
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Zhang An-Hua
sponsor: Glacier Melting Everest Expedition 2016
bcdate: 2016-04-13
smtdate: 2016-05-19
smttime: 0745
termdate: 2016-05-21
campsites: BC(13/04,5350m),C1(23/04,6000m),C2(24/04,6500m),C3(17/05,7300m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(19/05)
achievment: Zhang 2nd oldest Chinese to summit Everest
agency: Asia Voyage
routememo:
  Zhang, Thundu and Samde left C4 on 18 May at 8 pm, summited on 19 May at 7:45 am, stayed 5, then descended to C4 arriving at 4:15 pm. Weather good. Many people. 20 minutes traffic jam on the Hillary Step.

  Zhang sprained his knee on his way down from C3 to C2 and was evacuated from C2 on 21 May. Helicopter took him first to BC, then Pheriche, Lukla and Kathmandu.

  Oxygen:
    From C3 to top C3 by Zhang, Thundu and Samde.

  Sherpas:
    Thundu Sherpa, Beding, 18/02/1978
    Samden Sherpa, Khotang


expid: EVER16143
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Sweden
leaders: Lars Akerman
sponsor: Ascent Himalayas Everest Expedition 2016
countries: Norway
smtdate: 2016-05-14
smttime: 0540
campsites: BC(5350m),C1(6100m),C2(6400m),C3(12/05,7300m),C4(13/05,7950m),Smt(14-15,19/05)
agency: Ascent Himalayas
routememo:
  From Ascent Himalayas Expedition Report:

  Climbers Hakon Asvang, Mats Olav Steinsland departed base camp to join Une [Prestholt] and Dan [Akerman] at C2 on 11th May on their summit push. Tommy decided to take some extra rest days in base camp and wait for the second weather window from the 19th May before attempting the summit.
   
  Dan left C2 on the Thursday 12th May and climbed up the Lhotse face and spent the night at C3 (7300m) along with Furtemba Sherpa and Tsering Pemba Sherpa. Unfortunately Une wasn't feeling very well at C2, and decided to cancel her Expedition due to personal health problems. She was evacuated by helicopter from C2 on 13th May and has since made a full recovery. She is planning to attempt Everest again next year.
   
  On Friday 13th May, Dan, Furtemba and Tsering climbed over the Geneva Spur and reached C4 at 7950m around midday. Meanwhile Hakon, Mats, Nima Gyaljen Sherpa and Chiring Bhote Sherpa climbed to C3 to spend the night.
   
  Dan, Furtemba and Tsering left C4 at the South Col that night (Friday 13th May). There were high winds and deep snow, along the way. They were the only team to leave for the summit that evening and were lucky enough to be standing on the summit of Mount Everest at approximately 05:40 am on Saturday 14th May. I was delighted to hear that they had the route and summit to themselves. Great planning and team work by Mingma Tsiri Sherpa and all the Sherpas at Ascent Himalayas.
   
  With good news coming from the first summit party, Hakon and Mats were heading towards C4 on Sat the 14th May and planning to leave for the summit that evening along with Nima Gyaljen sherpa and Chhiring Bhote Sherpa. The weather conditions were good and they reached the summit of Mount Everest at 06.30am on Sunday 15th May.
   
  While our first and second summit teams were descending Everest and returning to Base camp, Tommy Steinsland was making his way up the mountain with Dawa Tashi Sherpa and Tsering Pande Sherpa. Tommy, Dawa Tashi and Tsering Pande made the summit on Thursday 19th May at 06:45 am.


expid: EVER16145
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Jitesh Popatial Mody
sponsor: Satori Adventures International Everest Expedition 2016
countries: Iran, Japan, Poland
approach: Lukla->Namche->Tengboche->Dingboche->Lobuche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2016-04-11
smtdate: 2016-05-19
termdate: 2016-05-23
campsites: BC(11-15/04,5350m),C1(25/04,6100m),C2(27/04,6500m),C3(17/05,7160m),C4(18/05,7950m),Smt(19/05)
achievment: Joisher 1st vegan to summit Everest?
agency: Satori Adventures
routememo:
  BC  11-15 Apr  5350m 
  C1  25 Apr  6100m
  C2  27 Apr  6500m
  C3  17 May  7160m
  C4  18 May  7950m
  Smt 19 May  by Bhagwan Singh Kushwah, Dev Raj Dutta, Yasumasa Katoh, Pradeep Chandra Sahoo, Ms. Chetna Sahoo, Rafik Taher Shaikh, Joisher, Mingma Tenji (31), Phurba Gyalje (37), Thupten (20), Dawa Temba (26), Ngima (26), Chhering (24), Pemba Tashi, Lhakpa Tashi and Rinji. 

  Fixed rope: Contributed money.

  Oxygen: From C3 to summit to C2 by all.

  The team members started from C4 at 7 pm, 8:30 pm and 9 pm of 18 May. Katoh reached summit at 5:30 am with his three Sherpas, Shaikh at 9 am, Joihser at 9:30 am, Kushwah at 9:45 am, rest at 10:45 am. They stayed on summit between 20 to 40 minutes. Katoh returned C4 early. Joisher at 3:30 pm, other members by 4:30 pm except Chetna Sahoo who reached at C4 at 3 am on 20 May. She was exhausted and brought down by two Sherpas from little above Balcony. She was heli-lifted from the base of Lhotse on 21 May to Kathmandu. Rest of climbers went down to C2. Shaikh also was Heli-lifted from C2 to Kathmandu on 21 May.

  Jitesh Modi went up to 8200m.

  Polish climber Gawron went up to South Col. His feet got cold and went down to C2 on 19 May and BC on 20 May. He was Heli-lifted on 21 May.

  Note: Name of leader on the permit is different. Literally Joisher was the leader, but he is not in the same permit of Satori because last year he was in different company and as per regulation one has to use same company which issued permit to.

  The Sherpa names are given by Joisher and all of them are from Makalu.


expid: EVER16146
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Dinesh Rathod
sponsor: Clean Indian Mission to Everest
approach: Lukla->Namache->Lobuche->Gorakhshep->BC
bcdate: 2016-04-30
termdate: 2016-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at unknown altitude with false summit claim
campsites: BC(30/04,5350m),C1(04/05,6100m),C2(07/05,6500m),xxx(?)
accidents: Tarkeshwari Bhalerao (Rathod) suffered from HAS.
achievment: Falsely claimed to be 1st Indian couple to summit Everest
agency: Makalu Adventure
routememo:
  Rathod couple claimed that they started their summit push from C4 at 6 pm on 22 May along with two Sherpas. They reached summit at 6:25 am on 23 May and stayed there only 6-7 minutes to have some quick pictures because Sherpas told them that there is not enough time to spend on the summit. They returned C4 between 1-2 pm and slept there. Next day 24 May they went down to C2 and the following day 25 May to BC. At BC Tarkeshwari got HAS and she was very weak, vomiting, fever, no appetite and her calcium level recorded was 3 which is very low. Medication at BC did not show any effects. On 27 May they were evacuated from BC to Kathmandu and stayed in Norvic Hospital 6 days. 

  Rathods also said that there were 6-7 climbers on the summit; among them four climbers were from north side. On descent they met 3 or 4 climbers going up. 
  Starting time weather was good but after 8 pm wind started picking up for 4-5 hours.

  Note: The couple did not keep any notebook for time and altitudes and date. After their claim for having successfully climbed Everest in a press conference held in Kathmandu, some inquiries came from India to have details of their climb and also suspected the claim. Summit photographs provided by Rathod do not show any digital details which normally shows in the snap properties. The high point perhaps for the couple could be C2. 

  Summit certicates were voided by the Ministry after it was discovered that the couple inserted their own faces into summit photes taken by Satyarup Siddhantha.

  There is no evidence that this couple proceeded very far above base camp, perhaps only into the lower portions of the Khumbu Icefall.


  From the Himalayan Times
    by Rajan Pokhrel, 4 July 2016

  Nepal Prepares to Blacklist Indian Couple for Everest Summit Manipulation
    Their Summit Certificaes to be Voided

  KATHMANDU: The Department of Tourism under the Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation has initiated a process to ban the Indian police couple from visiting Nepal for mountaineering for at least 10 years and cancel their Everest summit certificates.

  Sudarshan Prasad Dhakal, Director General at the DoT, said the DoT recommended the MoCTCA to take a formal decision to impose a 10-year ban on Dinesh Chandrakant Rathod and his wife Tarkeshwari Chandrakant Bhelerao of Maharashtra from visiting Nepal for mountaineering expedition by cancelling the summit certificates that the couple obtained from the Government of Nepal by submitting faked photos on June 10.

  After receiving a written clarification from Makalu Adventure Treks today, the DoT concluded that the couple had obtained summit certificates from the DoT by submitting doctored photos of their summit attempts to the top of Mt Everest, he added.

  "The expedition organising company also admitted in its clarification that the photos were morphed," Dhakal said. He added that Makalu Adventure Treks, however, blamed the climbing Sherpas for the goof-up.

  "The company accused the climbing Sherpas – Furba from Sankhuwasabha and Fursemba from Solukhumbu, who accompanied the Rathods to Everest expedition — of helping the Rathods to play foul."

  The DoT awarded the couple with summit certificates on June 10 endorsing their claims of having reached the summit in the early morning of May 23. The photos submitted by Rathod couple to DoT as a proof were found faked after Satyarup Siddhantha, a climber from Bangalore, accused Rathod couple of plagiarising his summit photos while the Bengaluru climber scaled the mountain on May 21.

  According to Mohan Lamsal, Managing Director at Makalu Adventure Treks, both climbing Sherpas who assisted the Rathods are still out of reach. As the department had not consulted with the climbing Sherpas, the team's liaison officer Ganesh Prasad Timsina who heads Karakvitta tourism office in Jhapa, approved the Rathods’ claims.


expid: EVER16148
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Paresh Chandra Nath
sponsor: Indian Everest Expedition 2016
smtdate: 2016-05-21
smttime: 1345
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4(20/05,7950m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal
routememo:
  From Indian Express - 27 May 2016

  One of the Missing Indian Mountaineers on Everest Found Dead

  Meanwhile attempts are being made to locate another Indian climber, Goutam Ghosh, whose body was reportedly lying above 8000 metres on Everest.

  A 58-year-old Indian mountaineer, Paresh Chandra Nath, who went missing on Mount Everest nearly a week ago was found dead. Meanwhile attempts are being made to locate another Indian climber, Goutam Ghosh, whose body was reportedly lying above 8000 metres on Everest.

  According to Wangchu Sherpa, the managing director at Trekking Camp Nepal that managed the expedition, a team of six Sherpas retrieved the body of Paresh Chandra Nath above the camp IV. His body is being brought to the camp II.

  However, they could not move ahead from the higher camp to locate another missing climber Goutam Ghosh. "High wind forced the rescuers to descend from the Camp IV after locating Paresh Nath's body," Sherpa said.

  Other climbers who made it to summit early this week are reported to have seen the body of Ghosh. Nath and Ghosh were near the summit of the 8848-metre peak last Saturday when they lost contact with the rest of the four-member team, all of whom were Indians.


  Note: Subhas Paul also died in descent from the summit. Nath and Ghosh only climbed to about 8700m. Sunita Hazra, who only climbed to 8400m was rescued, but suffered severe frostbite.


expid: EVER16150
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Urbain Lenaerts
sponsor: Belgian Everest Expedition 2016
approach: Lukla->Renjo La->Gokyo->Cho La->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2016-04-15
smtdate: 2016-05-19
smttime: 0645
campsites: BC(15/04,5350m),C1(25/04,6065m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(16/05,7300m),C4(17/05,7950m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Tirtha Tamang (Bright Way Treks)
routememo:
  Translated from Dutch from Expedition blog:

  After a difficult start from C3 to C4 with winds that you were blown down and every piece of bare skin with frostbite was paid, we arrive at C4.

  Together we equalize a place for the tent, the wind still huge. We deployed the tent, immediately comes a tent pole causing the sail's wind and the tent was flying through the air. Away, vanished!

  The second tent worked well and we were able to take shelter in. As the day progressed, weakness also wind down. To 18h decided Sherpas all together for that day summit attempt not to do, it would have been enough.

  The next day we are left at 19h, the Indians head making the pace was very low. As soon as the opportunity arose I surpassed this group and I could take my own pace.

  I reached the summit at the time of the sunrise. The battery of my camera and camera refused service. Only go pro I had removed the battery and have worn my body worked.

  The descent was a hellish caraway since there was a crowd of people up and I had to pass it with the necessary risks, as only a single rope was available. Left at 18 pm on May 18, 2016 in C4 and on May 19 at 12 hours I was back in C2. Tired but satisfied!

  I was warmly received by the crew from C2 and am happy for the three of us that our expedition was successful. Now it was just the Khumbu icefall safely come down where my friends waiting for me.


expid: EVER16151
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Alex Abramov
sponsor: Seven Summits Club Everest Expedition 2016
countries: China, Latvia, Nepal, Poland, UK, Ukraine
approach: Lhasa->Shigatse->Shegar->Tingri
bcdate: 2016-04-19
smtdate: 2016-05-20
smttime: 0500
termdate: 2016-05-24
agency: 7 Summits Adventure
campsites:
  BC(19/04,5200m),IC(22/04,5800m),ABC(28/04,6400m),C1(04/05,7000m),C2(18/05,7700m),C3(19/05,8300m),Smt(20-21/05)

routememo:
  Team:

    16 members and 12 climbing Sherpas, plus expedition doctor.

  Summits:

    May 20 - 8 members and 6 Sherpas
    May 21 - 7 members and 7 Sherpas

  First summit team left C3 on 20 May at 1 am (NST), summited at 8 am (5 am for Lhakpa), stayed 30 minutes. The team returned to C3 at 11 am, then continued to ABC arriving between 6 and 7 pm.

  Second summit team started from C3 at 11 pm on 20 May and reached summit between 6:30 to 7:30 am on 21 May. They stayed on summit for 30 minutes and back to C3 at 11 am and continued to ABC where they arrived between 6:20-6:45 pm.

  Lai high point about 6500m (crampon point).

  Noel Hanna, 1st person to summit Everest 8th times from Northern Ireland. 
  Hanna couple 1st to summit Everest from both sides (north and south). 
  Lynne Hanna 1st Northern Irish woman to summit Everest. 
  Alexander Abramov 1st Russian to summit seven times. 
  Tetiana Yalovchak, 2nd Ukranian woman to summit Everest. 
  Lakpa Sherpa, 1st woman to summit Everest seven times. 
  Alexander Abramov and Liudmila Korobeshko (couple) world record having three 
    times summit together.

  Oxygen:
    Members used from C1 to summit to C1
    Sherpas used from C2 to summit to C2


expid: EVER16152
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Melissa Arnot
sponsor: Everest North No O2 Expedition
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2016-04-28
smtdate: 2016-05-23
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2016-05-26
campsites: BC(28/04,5150m),ABC(01/05,6300m),C1(05/05,7000m),C2(10/05,7600m),C3(22/05,8300m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  Arnot and Reid started from C3 on 22 May at 10 pm, summited on 23 May at 12:30 pm, stayed 15 minutes, then descended to C3 arriving at 8 pm (long lines at 2nd Step coming down). Weather was clear, calm and cold.

  Oxygen:
    Arnot - none
    Reid - from 7600m to smt to 7600m (total 4 bottles)


expid: EVER16153
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Adrian Ballinger
sponsor: Everest No Filter Expedition 2016
countries: USA
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2016-04-24
smtdate: 2016-05-24
smttime: 0634
termdate: 2016-05-27
campsites: BC(24/04,5200m),ABC(28/04,6400m),C1(04/05,7000m),C2(10/05,7700m),C3(23/05,8300m),Smt(24/04)
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  Ballinger and Richards left C4 on 23 May at 10:14 pm. Richards summited on 24 May at 6:34 am, stayed 3 minutes, then descended to ABC arriving at 4 pm. Winds of 50k+, some blowing snow, cold.

  Adrian Ballinger to 8500m, then turned back due to hypothermia/cold.

  Oxygen:
    Richards - none
    Ballinger - used on return to 8300m after failed summit bid


expid: EVER16154
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Chad Peele
sponsor: Alpenglow Everest Rapid Ascent Team 2016
countries: Spain
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2016-04-24
smtdate: 2016-05-22
smttime: 0416
termdate: 2016-05-27
campsites: BC(24/04,5200m),ABC(29/04,6400m),C1(10/05,7000m),C2(20/05,7700m),C3(21/05,8300m),Smt(22/04)
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  Summit team of 4 members and 3 Sherpas left C4 on 21 May at 11:30 pm, sumited on 22 May at 4:16 am, stayed 15 minutes, then descended to ABC arriving at 5 pm. Good conditons; light wind and snow; dawn was clear.

  Oxygen:
    On final summit push members started using Oxygen at N Col (C1) and continued
    using it until we returned to N Col. SHerpas used from C2 to top to C2.


  From Algenglow Expeditions blog:

  EVEREST SUMMIT FOR #RAPIDASCENT TEAM

  By Sean Kristl • May 21, 2016

  At 04:16 local time on May 22, the team of Bryan Osoro & Trudi Seiwald led by Chad Peele and Zeb Blais along with the Sherpa team of Panuru, Pasang Rinji and Mingma Tchiring reached the summit of Mount Everest. The team moved fast from their camp at 8300m and gained the summit before the sun had even risen. They reported that the entire sky was lit up and took a few celebratory photos and enjoyed the view. Not 15 minutes later they were leaving the summit with smiles on their faces have touched the highest point on the planet.

  The plan for the descent will be to move as low as possible before they’re too tired or night falls. We’ll keep updating the blog with the team’s progress.

  11:22pm: Team is walking out of camp now. Warm weather. All feeling great.

  12:25am: First hour going well: “Fast and furious” in Chad’s words. Almost at exit cracks out onto the ridge.

  12:57am: Whole team (4 member 3 Sherpa) starting first step.

  1:29am: Mushroom rock. First bottle exchanged. Everyone moving well and feeling good. Light snow. Warm temps.

  1:48am: Waiting in a small queue at bottom of second step.

  2:14am: All members and Sherpa at the top of the second step. Moving well.

  3:01am: Top of third step. Final bottle changed. Warm temps. Light breeze a bit of cloud and light snow. They’re moving towards the summit snow slope but it’s still dark.

  4:02am: Panuru Sherpa says they are 15 min from the top!!!

  4:16am: SUMMIT

  4:37am: Leaving the summit now. No sunrise but light all around. They got a couple of good views. Everyone feels fingers and toes and smiles!!

  5:25am: They’re now below the third step, just waiting to go down the second where there are still a couple of people coming up.

  5:46am: All at bottom of second step. All good.


  Palden Sherpa accompanied Ballinger and Richards on their summit attempt the following day. Turned around at 8500m to assist Ballinger in descent?


expid: EVER16155
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Chile
leaders: Eugenio Guzman
sponsor: Chilean Everest Expedition 2016
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2016-04-25
smtdate: 2016-05-23
smttime: 1015
termdate: 2016-05-27
campsites: BC(25/04,5000m),ABC(01/05,6400m),C1(07/05,7000m),C2(21/05,7700m),C3(22/05,8300m),Smt(23/05)
accidents: Frostbite on both hands by Ibanez
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  BC  25/04  5000m
  ABC 01/05  6400m
  C1  07/05  7000m
  C2  21/05  7700m
  C3  22/05  8300m
  Smt 23/05  by Jordan, Alcalde, Ngima Tenzing, at 10:15 am; Urzua, Alvial, 
             Tshering Dorjee, Phurba, Pemba Dorje, Ngawang Jangbu at 10:45 am.

  All times are Nepali.

  On 22 May summit team and Guzman, Ibanez and Becker left C3 at 11:30 pm. At the mushroom rock (8600m) Ibanez found out that he had severe frostbite on both hands. He decided to turn back together with Guzman and Becker. The summit team had a straightforward climb. They spent about half an hour on the summit, and descended to C3, where they arrived between 4 pm and 5 pm. On On 24 May they descended to ABC.

  Frostbite: Ibanez was back in Kathmandu on 27 May. CIWEC treated him very well and he will not lose any fingers.

  Sherpa:
    Tshering Dorje, Kharikhola, 20/07/1970
    Pemba Dorje (Junje Pemba, Kharikhola, 01/08/1970
    Ngima Tenzing (1st time), Kharikhola [Thamo], 22 years
    Phurba, Kharikhola, 22 years (1st time)
    Ngawang Jangbu, Kharikhola

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C1 to top to C1 by members and Sherpas


expid: EVER16156
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Victor Bobok
sponsor: Climbalaya Everest Expedition 2016
countries: France, Hungary, Japan, Singapore, UK, Ukraine
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2016-04-21
smtdate: 2016-05-20
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2016-05-24
campsites: BC(21/04,4900m),ABC(27/04,6400m),C1(17/05,7000m),C2(18/05,7800m),C3(19/05,8300m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Climbalaya
routememo:
  The Climbalaya Everest expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-3 climbers each). Climbalaya provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Felix Tan (Singapore)
   
  Name:  Puffin Sand Everest Expedition 2016
  Camps: BC(21/04,4900m),ABC(27/04,6400m),C1(02/05,7000m),C2(18/05,7800m),
         C3(19/05,8300m),Smt(20/05)
  Left:  23/05/2016
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success (9:50 am, CST)

  Tan and Pema set out from C3 at 1 am (CST). On the ascent the weather was fine with light winds and light snowfall. Conditions good. Slight bottleneck at the 2nd and 3rd Steps. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit. On the way down weather changed. It got very windy on the way down. They descended to C1, where they arrived at about 00:25 on 21 Mau. On 22 May descended to ABC.

  Oxygen:
    From 7300m to top to C1 by Tan; from C2 to top to C2 by Pema.

  Sherpa:
    Pema


  Yoshiyuki Tachibana (Japan)
   
  Name:  2016 Yoshiyuki Tachibana Summit Try
  Camps: BC(21/04,5000m),ABC(24/04,6400m),C1(02/05,7000m),C2(18/05,7800m),
         C3(19/05,8300m),Smt(20/05)
  Left:  22/05/2016
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success (6:38 am, NST)

  Summit team of Tachibana, Kami Rita and Pemba Tenzing set out from C3 on 19 May at 11:30 pm, summited on 20 May at 6:30 am, stayed 10 minutes, then descended to C3, where they rested for 2 hours and then continued to C1, where they arrived at 7 pm.
  Conditions good, a bit windy. Many people on the way. Stuck behind Chinese group (more than 30 people). Waited at the 2nd Step for about 20 minutes.

  Oxygen:
    From C1 to summit to C1 by Tachibana; from C2 to summit to C2 by Sherpas.

  Sherpa:
    Kami Rita (Topke), Thami, 17/01/1970 
    Pemba Tenzing, Thamo, 23/08/1976


  Emil Neszmelyi (Hungary)
   
  Name:  Emil Neszmelyi Sr. (b1919) Memorial Everest Expedition 2016
  Camps: BC(21/04,4900m),ABC(27/04,6400m),C1(18/05,7000m),C2(19/05,7800m),
         C3(19/05,8300m),Smt(20/05)
  Left:  24/05/2016
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success (6:55 am, NST)

  Summit team set out from C3 at 11 pm on 19 May. On the ascent the weather was fine with light winds and light snowfall. Conditions good. Slight bottleneck at the 2nd and 3rd Steps. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit. On the way down weather changed and got very windy on the way down. They descended to C1, where they arrived at about midnight. 

  Neszmelyi first Hungarian from the north side.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from 7200m to top to 7500m by Neszmelyi
    From C2 to top to C1 by Dawa Tenzing.

  Sherpa:
    Dawa Tenzing, Thamo, 21/03/1986


  Victor Bobok (Russia)
  Irina Galay (Ukraine)
  Pavel Kostrikin (Russia)
   
  Name:  Wind of Freedom Everest 2016
  Camps: BC(21/04,5180m),ABC(25/04,6400m),C1(29/04,7000m),C2(18/05,7800m),
         C3(19/05,8300m),Smt(20/05)
  Left:  22/05/2016
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success (6:00 am)

  Summit team of Bobok, Galay, Pemba Tenzing and Pasang set out from C3 on 19 May at 9 pm, summited on 20 May at 6:00 am, stayeded 30 minutes, then descended to ABC arriving at 10 pm. Straightforward climb.

  Kostrikin reached 7000m on 10 May. He had no energy and felt exhausted. On 11 May he descended to ABC and left the expedition a few days later.

  Galay 1st Ukrainian woman to summit. 2nd Ukrainian woman summited one day later (21 May) with Alex Abramov.

  Oyxgen:
    Used from C1 to top to C1 by members; from C2 to top to C2 by Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Tenzing Sherpa
    Pasang [Sona] Sherpa


  Balwant Singh (Bob) Bhania (UK)

  Camps: BC(21/04,4900m),ABC(27/04,6400m),C1(17/05,7000m),C2(18/05,7800m),
         C3(19/05,8300m),Smt(20/05)
  Left:  24/05/2016
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success (7:00 am)

  Summit team set out from C3 at 8 pm on 19 May. On the ascent the weather was fine and light wind, light snowfall. Conditions good. Slight bottleneck at the 2nd and 3rd Steps. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit. On the way down weather changed. It got very windy on the way down. They descended to C3, where they arrived at 4:30 pm. On 21 May to ABC.

  First Kenyan to the top (he has dual citizenship so not sure whether it counts).

  Oyxgen:
    Taken and used from C1 to top to C1 by Bhania; C3 to top to C3 by Nima Kancha

  Fixed Rope: 
    All rope-fixing done by Chinese.

  Sherpa:
    Nima Kancha, Pare, Khumbu, 20/04/1977

achievment:
  Galay 1st Ukrainian woman to summit; 2nd Ukrainian woman Tatiana Yalovchak summited one day later (21 May) with Alex Abramov


expid: EVER16157
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Tim Medvetz
sponsor: The Heroes' Project Everest 2016
countries: Japan, UK
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2016-04-17
smtdate: 2016-05-19
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2016-05-22
campsites: BC(17/04,4900m),ABC(25/04,6400m),C1(29/04,7000m),C2(17/05,7800m),C3(18/05,8300m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Climbalaya
routememo:
  BC  17/04  4900m
  ABC 25/04  6400m
  C1  29/04  7000m
  C2  17/05  7800m
  C3  18/05  8300m
  Smt 19/05  by Medvetz, Linville, Hiraide, Lhakpa Nuru (Phorste), Ang Pasang
             (Thami), Mingma Sherpa (Thamo), Ngima Tashi (Thami) at 12:30 pm 
             (Nepal Time).

  Team set off from C4 at 3:30 am, half an hour behind the rope-fixing team. Lot of snow on the mountain this year. It was very windy and the tracks of the rope-fixing team got covered in snow quickly. Steps were difficult for Linville as he has his right leg amputated. They spent about 30 minutes. They descended to C2, where they spent the night. They arrived at 6:30 pm. On 20 May to ABC.

  Oxygen: Slept on 0.5l in ABC for five nights before the summit attempt by members; then on summit push from C1 to top to C1 by members; from C2 to top to C2 by Sherpas.

  First Combat Wounded Veteran on top of Everest: Charles Linville 

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Nuru, Phortse, EVER 22/05/23 China (Wang Yong-Feng) 18/06/80
    Ang Pasang, Thami, EVER 20/05/98 USA (Robert Hoffman) 19/06/67
    Mingma, Thamo, EVER 25/05/14 USA (William Burke, Asian) 01/10/77
    Ngima Tashi, Thami


expid: EVER16158
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Liam Slater
sponsor: Satori Adventures International Everest North Expedition 2016
countries: Brazil, India, Italy, Japan, Mongolia, Poland, Spain
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2016-04-15
smtdate: 2016-05-21
smttime: 0515
termdate: 2016-05-26
agency: Satori Adventures
routememo:
  The Satori Adventures expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Satori Adventures provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Liam Slater (Australia)
   
  Camps: BC(15/04,5200m),ABC(19/04,6400m),C1(26/04,7000m),C2(17/05,7800m),
         C3(18/05,8250m),xxx(19/05,8400m)
  Left:  26/05/2016
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 8400m due to oxygen issues and fatique.

  Slater and Dawa Dendi set out from C3 on 18 May at 11 pm (CST). The weather was good and calm. When they got to 8400m at 3:30 am Slater had problems with his oxygen. He had the feeling that he was quicker without the mask. As it was already late when they reached the high point, he decided to turn back. They descended all the way back to ABC, where they arrived at 4 pm.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from 7800m to high point to 7000m by Slater and Dawa Dendi.

  Sherpa:
    Dawa Dendi


  Adam Rucinski (Poland)
  Babij Arkadiusz (Poland)
   
  Camps: BC(18/04,5150m),ABC(23/04,6400m),C1(10/05,7060m),C2(19/05,7650m),
         C3(20/05,8250m),Smt(21/05)
  Left:  26/05/2016
  Hired: ?
  Term:  Success (7:30 am, CST)

  Rucinski and Sherpas left C3 on 20 May at 10 pm (CST), summited on 21 May at 7:30 am, stayed 20 minutes, then descended to C1.

  Oxygen:
    Used by Rucinski and Sherpas.


  Miguel Madrid (Spain)
   
  Camps: BC(18/04,5150m),ABC(23/04,6400m),C1(01/05,7060m),C2(19/05,7800m),
         C3(20/05,8250m),Smt(21/05)
  Left:  26/05/2016
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success (7:30 am, CST)

  Madrid, Mingma and Pema laft C3 on 20 May at 11:30 pm (CST), summited on 21 May at 7:30 am, stayed 10 minutes, then descended to C1 in 11 hours.

  First a little snow at 10 pm, after 11 pm started to clear the sky and the full moon appeared on the ridge at 8500m. It was very good until 7 on when it started to snow again, but I was in C1 coming back and safe.

  Oxygen:
    Madrid from 7400-7500m to top to C1 down; Sherpas from C2 to top to C2.

  Sherpa:
    Mingma, Everest X7, Cho Oyu, Xixa
    Pema, Cho Oyu


  Rosier Saraiva Filho (Brazil)
   
  Camps: BC(18/04,5150m),ABC(24/04,6400m),C1(29/04,7055m),C2(19/05,7650m),
         C3(20/05,8250m),Smt(21/05)
  Left:  27/05/2016
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success (8:15 am, CST)

  Saraiva and Lhakpa Chhiring laft C3 on 20 May at 12:00 am (CST), summited on 21 May at 8:15 am, stayed 15-20 minutes, then descended to C2 (others went down to C1). Next day to ABC.

  Climbed with full moon; no wind, both in ascent and descent. A little wind just on the summit.

  Oxygen:
    From C1 to smt to 7300m by Saraiva; from C3 to smt to C3 by Sherpa.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Chhiring (Sonam), Pangboche, Everest X8

  Agency: Himalayan Ecstasy Treks on Satori Adventures permit.


  Satoshi Tamura (Japan)

  Name:  Satoshi Tamura Everest 2016
  Camps: BC(19/04,5200m),ABC(23/04,6400m),C1(29/04,7000m),C2(19/05,7800m),
         C3(20/05,8300m),Smt(21/05)
  Left:  26/05/2016
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success (7:15 am NST)

  Tamura and Dawa Dendi set out from C3 on 20 May at 9 pm (NST), summited at 7:15 am, stayed 20 minutes, then descended to C3 at 2 pm.

  At the time of the attack from C3 at 8500m, my oxygen mask froze and it was hard to breath. It felt easier without the mask. I was lucky that it was sunny and it was not windy. When I looked at the oxygen bottle, the meter showed 1.5! How could that be? On my way climbing, I had asked my Sherpa to fix it at the maximum 3.5! I must say the climb was done almost without supplemental oxygen.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from 7500m to top to 7200m by Tamura.
    Taken and used from 7650m to top to 7500m by Dawa Dendi.

  Sherpa:
    Dawa Dendi

  Agency: Expedition Himalaya on Satori Adventures permit.


  Neelima Pudota (India)
  Agency: Adventure 14 Peaks on Satori Adventures permit

  Tseveendash Bazarkhand (Mongolia)
  Agency: Cultural Treks on Satori Adventures permit


expid: EVER16159
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Ecuador
leaders: Carla Perez
sponsor: Ecuador Everest North Expedition 2016
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2016-04-17
smtdate: 2016-05-23
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2016-05-26
campsites: BC(17/04,5200m),ABC(25/04,6400m),C1(30/04,7000m),C2(08/05,7800m),C3(22/05,8200m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  BC  17/04  5200m
  ABC 25/04  6400m
  C1  30/04  7000m
  C2  08/05  7800m
  C3  22/05  8200m	
  Smt 23/05  by Perez, Mena and Pemba Gelje Sherpa 11 am.

  Team started from C3 at 10 pm on 22 May. Only three groups were on the mountain. As they were ahead they did not have any waiting time. Mena was with oxygen and Perez without. They spent about 30 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at 9 pm. On 24 May to ABC.

  Oxygen:
    Not used by Perez; used from C2 to top to C2 by Mena and Pemba Gelje

  Sherpa;
    Pemba Gelje, Kharikhola, 30/12/1990


expid: AMAD16101
peakid: AMAD
year: 2016
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Katharina Grasegger
sponsor: Jungmannschaft Garmisch Ama Dablam Expedition 2016
bcdate: 2016-04-24
smtdate: 2016-05-06
termdate: 2016-05-08
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to bad weather, lack of fixed-rope and ran out of time
campsites: BC(24/07,4700m),C1(30/04,5800m),C2(05/05,6200m),xxx(06/05,6400m)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  On 6 May Dahlmeier, Kappelmeier and Ostler reached 6400m at 4 pm, then turned back due to blank ice and bad weather.

  Team fixed rope approximately 400m between C1 and high point.


expid: EVER16160
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Peter Boogaard
sponsor: Dutch-Romanian Everest Expedition 2016
countries: Romania
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2016-04-17
smtdate: 2016-05-21
smttime: 0345
termdate: 2016-05-24
campsites: BC(17/04,4900m),ABC(22/04,6400m),C1(24/04,7000m),C2(19/05,7800m),C3(20/05,8300m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Grand Himalaya Treks
routememo:
  BC  17/04  4900m
  ABC 22/04  6400m
  C1  24/04  7000m
  C2  19/05  7800m
  C3  20/05  8300m
  Smt 21/05  by Boogaard, Pasang Sherpa, Dawa Finchok 3:45 am (NST).	

  Team left C3 at 9:30 pm on 20 May. Weather was calm, good snow conditions. Straightforward climb. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit. They descended all the way to ABC where they arrived at 8:30 pm. On 22 May 5 they descended to BC.

  When Patrascu reached ABC he was tired and not happy with being there; he left the expedition on 1 May.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C2 to top to C1 by Boogaard and Sherpas.

  Sherpas
    Pasang, Lelep-8, Taplejung, 27/04/1978
    Dawa Finchok, Lamabagar-3, Dolakha, 16/07/1982


expid: EVER16161
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Sweden
leaders: Maria Granberg
sponsor: Swedish Everest Expedition 2016
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2016-04-16
smtdate: 2016-05-24
smttime: 0610
termdate: 2016-05-27
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
campsites:
  BC(18/04,4900m),IC(22/04,5750m),ABC(01/05,6400m),C1(05/05,7000m),C2(22/05,7800m),C3(23/05,8200m),Smt(24/05)

routememo:
  BC  18/04  4900m
  IC  22/04  5750m
  ABC 01/05  6400m
  C1  05/05  7000m
  C2  22/05  7800m	
  C3  23/05  8200m
  Smt 24/05  by Granberg, Pemba Rita [and Ngima Rinji]  at 6:10 am.

  Team left C3 at 11 pm on 23 May. Straightforward climb. They spent about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to C1, where they arrived at 4:30 pm. On 25 May descended to ABC.

  On 17 May Granberg was taken to Shigatse due to respiratory problems. She went to hospital there on 18 May. They did X-rays there and it was clear. The doctors gave her antibiotics she stayed in Shigatse for three nights and returned to BC on 20 May.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from 7200m to top to 7000m member and Sherpa.

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Rita, Beding, 31/08/1979
    Ngima Rinji, Simigaon, 11/08/77


expid: EVER16164
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Trevor Stuart
sponsor: Canadian Everest Expedition 2016
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2016-04-25
smtdate: 2016-05-21
smttime: 0345
termdate: 2016-05-27
campsites: BC(25/04,4900m),ABC(30/04,6400m),C1(05/05,7000m),C2(19/05,7800m),C3(20/05,8200m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  BC  25/04  4900m
  ABC 30/04  6400m
  C1  05/05  7000m
  C2  19/05  7800m
  C3  20/05  8200m
  Smt 21/05  by Stuart, Tashi Sherpa and Mingma Sherpa at 3:45 am.

  Team left C3 at 10 pm on 20 May. It was clear, full moon with about 25 people on the route. Straightforward climb. They spent about 15 minutes on the summit. They descended to ABC, where they arrived at 2 pm. 

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from 7300m to top to C1 by member; C2 to top to C1 by Sherpa.

  Sherpas:
    Tashi, Beding, 18/04/1979
    Mingma Tshering, Beding, 26/09/1982


expid: EVER16163
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Thomas Laemmle
sponsor: Extrek Everest Expedition 2016
countries: Italy
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2016-05-16
smtdate: 2016-05-23
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2016-05-25
othersmts: Summited Cho Oyu on 7 May (CHOY-161-03)
campsites: BC(16/05,4900m),IC(18/05,5750m),ABC(20/05,7400m),C2(21/05,7800m),C3(22/05,8200m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
primid: CHOY16103
routememo:
  BC  16/05  4900m
  IC  18/05  5750m
  ABC 20/05  6400m
  C1   --	   7000m (only had a drink at North Col)
  C2  21/05  7800m		
  C3  22/05  8200m
  Smt 23/05  by Laemmle at 2 pm.

  Laemmle left C4 at 2 am on his own. There were bottlenecks on 2nd and 3rd Steps and below the summit, where he was held up. He was ascending and summiting without supplemental oxygen. He stayed half an hour on the summit, took off his gloves to send text messages and ring his girlfriend to propose to her. On his way down, he cut off old ropes and abseiled down the 3rd and 2nd Steps. He arrived at C3 at 9:30 pm.

  On 24 May Laemmle used supplemental oxygen as he wanted to prevent frostbite (he did not drink enough). It was half a bottle and he used it down to 7400m. He descended all the way to ABC on 24 May.

  Gruber reached C3 on 22 May but did not go for the summit due to cold; he descended to ABC on 23 May.

  Oxygen: 
    Laemmle used medical oxygen from 8200m (C3) to 7400m on the descent; he reached 
      the summit without using supplemental oxygen.
    Gruber did not use any oxygen.


expid: EVER16162
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Sweden
leaders: Robin Trygg
sponsor: Swedish Cho Oyu-Everest Expedition 2016
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2016-05-11
smtdate: 2016-05-20
smttime: 0555
termdate: 2016-05-27
othersmts: Summited Cho Oyu on 5 May (CHOY-161-08)
campsites: BC(11/05,4900m),IC(15/05,5750m),ABC(16/05,6400m),C1(18/05,7000m),C3(19/05,8200m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
primid: CHOY16108
routememo:
  BC  11/05  4900m
  IC  15/05  5750m
  ABC 16/05  6400m
  C1  18/05  7000m
  C2   --     --		
  C3  19/05  8200m
  Smt 20/05  by Trygg, Chhiring Dorje at 8:10 am (CST).

  Summit team left C3 at 1 am. Straightforward climb. Spent about 15 minutes on the summit and then descended to C3, where they had some food and then all the way down to ABC, where they arrived at 8 pm. The following day down to BC.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from about 7200m to top to C2 by Trygg and Chhiring.

  Sherpa:
    Chhiring Dorje, Beding, 26/10/1974


expid: EVER16165
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiroyuki Kuraoka
sponsor: Mountain Experience Everest North 2016
countries: France
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2016-04-10
smtdate: 2016-05-20
smttime: 0510
termdate: 2016-05-23
campsites: BC(19/04,4900m),ABC(28/04,6400m),C1(03/05,7000m),C2(18/05,7800m),C3(19/05,8200m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  BC  19/04  4900m
  ABC 28/04  6400m
  C1  03/05  7000m
  C2  18/05  7800m Vachette (never slept at C2)	
  C3  19/05  8200m
  Smt 20/05  by Vachette and Pemba Nuru at 5:10 am; Kuraoka, Takeshita, Pemba 
             Gyalzen at 5:40 am.

  Team left C3 at 9:30 am on 19 May. Weather and conditions good. A lot of Chinese climbers on the route. On 3rd Step they had to wait for almost 30 minutes. They stayed between 20 and 30 minutes on the summit. Vachette and Pemba Nuru descended to ABC, where he arrived 4 pm. Rest of the team descended to C1, where they arrived at 4 pm. On 21 May everyone to ABC.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C1 to top to C1 by all members. 
    From C2 to top to C2 by Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Gyalzen/Geljen, Thami, 22/07/1969
    Pemba Nuru (Kaila), Pare, 03/02/1973


expid: EVER16166
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Ryuseki Hiraoka
sponsor: Ryuseki Expeditions Everest North 2016
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2016-04-19
smtdate: 2016-05-20
smttime: 0540
termdate: 2016-05-23
campsites: BC(19/04,4900m),ABC(28/04,6400m),C1(03/05,7000m),C2(18/05,7800m),C3(19/05,8200m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  BC  19/04  4900m
  ABC 28/04  6400m
  C1  03/05  7000m
  C2  18/05  7800m
  C3  19/05  8200m
  Smt 20/05  by Hiraoka, Tokusa, Nima Kancha and Nima Nuru at 5:40 am.

  Team left C3 at 9:30 am on 19 May. Weather and conditions good. A lot of Chinese climbers on the route. On 3rd Step they had to wait for almost 30 minutes. They stayed between 20 and 30 minutes on the summit. Team descended to C1, where they arrived at 4 pm. On 21 May everyone to ABC.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C1 to top to C1 by all members.
    From C2 to top to C2 by Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Nima Kancha, Pare, 19/07/1975
    Nima Nurbu, Thamiteng, 20/02/1980


expid: EVER16167
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Mexico
leaders: Jorge Salazar
sponsor: Mexican Everest Expedition 2016
countries: Argentina
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2016-04-20
smtdate: 2016-05-22
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2016-05-24
campsites: BC(20/04,5200m),ABC(26/04,6400m),C1(30/04,7000m),C2(14/05,7800m),C3(21/05,8300m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Team set out from C3 on 22 May at 12:01 am (NST), summited at 9:30 am, then returned to C3 at 6 pm. Weather was clear, but very windy. Good conditions.

  Salazar and Hermosillo reached 8300m (without Sherpa, without oxygen) on 22 May. Alvarez arrived at C3 and was snow blind. Salazar and Hermosillo abandoned their summit push to help Alvarez down. They stayed the night in C3 and the following day they descended to C1 then to ABC. Alvarez was completely blind. His blindness only got better when he reached ABC. He had taken off his glasses on the descent from the summit as it was foggy.

  Ruiz Perez reached 7300m 21 May. He did not feel well and abandoned the expedition. he stayed at C1 for three days and waited for the others to come down.

  Zelaya Huerta reached 7300m on 14 May. He did not feel good with the altitude and abandoned the expedition. 

  Arizmendi Molasco remained at BC for the whole expedition. She was the BC doctor and never intended to climb.

  Oxygen:
    Alvarez and Jangbu from C2 to top to C2.
    All other members did NOT use oxygen and were not intending to use it.

  Sherpa:
    Jangbu, Solukhumbu, 30 (brother of Ang Phurba who died on Lhotse on 19 May)


expid: EVER16169
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Chatur Tamang
sponsor: Makalu Extreme International Everest 2016
countries: Canada, Russia
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2016-04-18
smtdate: 2016-05-20
smttime: 0300
termdate: 2016-05-23
campsites: BC(18/04,5200m),ABC(23/04,6400m),C1(27/04,7000m),C2(18/05,7800m),C3(19/05,8200m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Makalu Extreme Treks
routememo:
  BC  18/04  5200m
  ABC 23/04  6400m
  C1  27/04  7000m
  C2  18/05  7800m
  C3  19/05  8200m
  Smt 20/05  by Tamang at 3 am, Morozov at 4:12 am, Ryzhikov at 4:20 am.
  		
  Summit team left C3 at 10:30 pm on 19 May. They were first to go to the summit that day. Tamang met a few people who had come up from the south side. He spent two hours on the summit as it was dark and he wanted to wait for sunlight. However, as his camera was frozen and it was cold, he descended once the other two had arrived. Tamang descended to ABC, where he arrived at 5 pm. He dismantled C3 and C2 on the way down. On 21 May he went up to C1 to dismantle the camp there.

  Morozov and Rhyzhikov descended to C1, where they arrived at 5 pm.

  Tamang was the first person to summit from the north side on 20 May.

  On 21 May everyone back at ABC.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C1 to top C1 by Morozov and Ryzhikov.
    From 7500m to top to 7500m by Tamang.


  Jeevan Shrestha - 21 Apr 2017

  Alex Abramov told Jeevan Shrestha that Morozov and Ryzhikov came to Abramov's tent at BC and told him that they did not summit.

  Jeevan Shrestha - 28 Apr 2017

  Chatur Tamang confirmed that Morozov and Ryzhikov did not summit, but stopped at C3. They did not use Sherpas, so they did not have the strength to continue.


expid: EVER16170
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Pasang Tendi Sherpa
sponsor: TAGnepal Everest North Expedition 2016
countries: Argentina, Canada, Mexico, Malaysia, Switzerland
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2016-04-20
smtdate: 2016-05-23
smttime: 0946
termdate: 2016-05-26
campsites: BC(20/04,4900m),ABC(26/04,6400m),C1(29/04,7000m),C2(21/05,7800m),C3(22/05,8300m),Smt(23/05)
agency: TAGnepal Trekking
routememo:
  BC  20/04  4900m
  ABC 26/04  6400m
  C1  29/04  7000m
  C2  21/05  7800m
  C3  22/05  8300m
  Smt 23/05  by Mahammad Yusoff and Pemba Sherpa 9:46 am, Lama Babu at 10 am, Ishak
             and Palden Nima Sherpa at 11:22 am, Corvalan, Ulehla, Arana Tagle, 
             Valencia, Boselli, Rose, Bossard and other Sherpas at 11:50 am.

  Summiting Sherpas:
    Pasang Tendi Sherpa, Yaphu-9
    Lam Babu Sherpa, Bung-9, 23/09/1968
    Palden Nima Sherpa, Yaphu-9, 29/08/1978
    Dawa Jamba Sherpa, Yaphu-9, 02/10/1978
    Pasang Tendi Sherpa, Jubing-1, 25/02/1988
    Ngang Pasang Sherpa, Waku-4, 27/11/1986
    Ngawang Chhongba Sherpa, Waku-4, 20/11/1987 (1st Everest summit)
    Pemba Rinji Sherpa, Jubing-1, 26/12/1981 (1st Everest summit)
    Pemba Sherpa, Lamabagar-1, Dolakha 28/01/1982 

  Team left C3 at 9 pm (NST) on 22 May. Many people on the route. Windy and it was very cold. Straightforward climb. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to C3, where they arrived at 5 pm. On 24 May descended to ABC.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from from ABC to top to ABC by Ishak
    From C1 to top to ABC by Mahammad Yusoff
    From C1 to top to C1 by all other members
    From C2 to top to C2 by Sherpas


expid: EVER16171
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Pemba Norbu Sherpa
sponsor: Wild Yak Expeditions Everest 2016
countries: Switzerland
approach: From Cho Oyu
bcdate: 2016-05-10
smtdate: 2016-05-21
smttime: 0345
termdate: 2016-05-23
othersmts: Attempted Cho Oyu (CHOY-161-06)
campsites: BC(10/05,5200m),ABC(16/05,6400m),C1(18/05,7000m),C2(19/05,7800m),C3(20/05,8300m),Smt(21/05)
achievment: Zimmermann 1st woman to attempt these two summits in a row in the same season
agency: Wild Yak Expeditions
primid: CHOY16106
routememo:
  Zimmermann and Pemba Norbu left C3 on 20 May at 10 pm (NST), summited on 21 May at 3:34 am, stayed more than 1 hour, then descended to ABC arriving at 7:30 pm. Weather was perfect with full moon.

  Oxygen:
    For Everest only, from 7800m to smt to 7800m.


expid: LHOT16101
peakid: LHOT
year: 2016
route1: W Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Nima Namgyal Sherpa
sponsor: Asian Trekking Eco-Lhotse Expedition 2016
countries: India, UK
bcdate: 2016-04-13
smtdate: 2016-05-20
termdate: 2016-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to fatal accident of Sherpa fixing ropes
campsites: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(25/04,6000m),C2(30/04,6400m,),C3(19/05,7300m),C4(20/05,8000m),xxx
agency: Asian Trekking
primid: EVER16101
routememo:
  The Asian Trekking Eco-Lhotse expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Asian Trekking provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Hazel Gibb (UK)

  Camps: BC(13/04,5350m),C1(03/05,6000m),C2(04/05,6400m),xxx(05/05,7150m)
  Left:  17/05/16
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 7150m due to stomach illness.

  Gibb turned back due to stomach illess at C2.


  Sunita Choken (India)

  Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(25/04,6000m),C2(30/04,6400m,),C3(19/05,7300m),
         C4(20/05,8000m),xxx
  Left:  24/05/16
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 8000m due to lack of fixed ropes.

  Sunita and her Sherpa got only to C3 at 8000m. The route above was not open (ropes were not fixed).

  There were 2 small avalanches between C3 and C4. One Sherpa (Ang Phurba) from the route opening team had a fall of 2000m while fixing the ropes after 8000m. He died on 19 May.

  Oyxgen:
    Not used by either Sunita or her Sherpa.


expid: LHOT16102
peakid: LHOT
year: 2016
route1: W Face
nation: India
leaders: Ranveer Singh Jamwal
sponsor: Indian Army Everest Massif Expedition 2016
countries: Nepal
bcdate: 2016-04-14
smtdate: 2016-05-19
termdate: 2016-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 8500m due to fatal accident of Sherpa fixing ropes
othersmts: Summited Everest (Attempt Lhotse (LHOT-161-01))
campsites: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(27/04,6100m),C2(28/04,6880m),C3(17/05,7100m),C4(18/05,7600m),xxx(19/05,8500m)
agency: Arun Treks
primid: EVER16127
routememo:
  High point of 8500m by Nooruddin, Mingmar Gurung, Sukhdev Singh, Chatter Singh, Sukhvir, Krishna Bahadur Kuwar, Tsewang Chosgail.

  Ang Furba, who was leading the Sherpa rope-fixing team, fell to his death at around 12 noon. He fell down past the climbing team.

  The team waited for about 45 minutes as Jamwal (the leader) was not in communication as he was just descending from Everest. They did not know what to do. However, they turned back as the rope was not fixed all the way to the summit. The Sherpas went down after Ang Phurba's fall. They all descended to C4, collected their things and then continued to C2, where they arrived at 6:30 pm.

  The route was in condition, but the rope fixing was bad. A lot of rope from the previous year was used. 3 Sherpas from Arun Treks helped fix the rope.

  Oxygen:
    Used from C3 to high point to C3 by members.
    Used from C4 to high point to C4 by members.

  Note from Russell Brice: 

  What happened on Lhotse?

  Like for Everest there were various meetings at BC concerning Lhotse. It was quite apparent that the largest team for Lhotse was the Indian Army team with Arun Treks, so it was mutually agreed that they would deal with the logistics. Many of the other Lhotse climbers were climbing Everest first and then going to attempt Lhotse, so there was very little enthusiasm from many teams. The rope, oxygen and equipment was already at C2 so part of the logistics were already in place. But for some reason it appears that there was constantly a lack of co-ordination with load carrying. Often Sherpas would turn up to carry loads at 02:00 in the morning to be told that Arun had changed their plan and were not working on that day. From a distance some of us were wondering why the rope and material was being accumulated at the Lhotse C4 but was not going any higher, and there did not seem to be a plan to combine all participating teams together for the summit fixing. As it turned out just a very few rope fixers turned up, and it seems that although these young lads were very keen, fit and strong, and had attended the Khumbu Climbing Centre courses in the past, so were technically good climbers, they however lacked rope fixing experience. So instead of fixing new rope and changing the anchors and associated tat, they just tied new rope onto old rope and climbed on that until it ran out and then tied new rope to fill the gap. As there was a lack of coordinated support it is not surprising that they ran out of rope well below the summit, but being keen and enthusiastic one young Sherpa started to pull old rope out of the snow. Remembering that this rope is now three years old as nobody has been on Lhotse for the past two years and the last rope to be fixed there was in 2013. Apparently, suddenly the old rope suddenly broke free and Ang Furba lost his balance and fell off, and not being clipped to the rope he fell the full length of Lhotse to his death to arrive just 20m away from the crampon point at the bottom of the Lhotse Face. Of course this has a devastating effect on others who witness the falling man and also have the unenviable job of collecting his body, so it is not surprising that there is a sudden lack of interest in summiting Lhotse. Besides now we know that the job has not been done well and so a totally new effort is required. I am sorry, but this is a totally needless death of a young and promising Sherpa lad, and also resulted in no Lhotse summits this year.


expid: LHOT16103
peakid: LHOT
year: 2016
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Garrett Madison
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Lhotse Expedition 2016
countries: Australia, Colombia/USA, Ireland, New Zealand, Norway, UK
bcdate: 2016-04-19
smtdate: 2016-05-10
termdate: 2016-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 7050m due to death of Ang Phurba while rope-fixing
campsites: BC(19/04,5350m),C1(28/04,6100m),C2(20//04,6400m),xxx(10/05,7050m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  19/04  5350m
  C1  28/04  6100m
  C2  29/04  6400m
  H{t 10/05  7050m by Smith, Lopez during 2nd rotation.

  While Smith and Lopez were in C2 on their summit rotation Ang Phurba fell to his death in the Lhotse Couloir on 19 May. The expedition lost momentum and they decided to abandon their climb on 22 May. Descended to BC on 22 May.

  Kosztelny reached C2 on 29 April during the first rotation. He left BC on 8 May due to business matters at home.

  Oxygen: Taken and not used


expid: LHOT16104
peakid: LHOT
year: 2016
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: SummitClimb Lhotse Expedition 2016
countries: Australia, Austria, Belgium
bcdate: 2016-04-16
smtdate: 2016-05-04
termdate: 2016-05-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7750m after the death of Ang Phurba
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-161-09)
campsites: BC(16/04,5350m),C1(23/04,6100m),C2(26/04,6473m),C3(30/04,7100m),C4(04/05,7750m),xxx
agency: Everest Parivar
primid: EVER16109
routememo:
  BC  16/04  5350m
  C1  23/04  6100m
  C2  26/04  6473m
  C3  30/04  7100m
  C4  04/05  7750m
  HPt 04/05  7750m by Ruehrlinger on acclimatization.

  Ruehrlinger reached C4 during his acclimatization rotation (he was going to climb without oxygen). When he heard that Ang Phurba (from Arun Treks) fell to his death, he was at BC and decided to abandon his climb.

  Lohaus reached C3 on 21 May, but when he heard that a Dutch man died on Everest and he abandoned the expedition.

  Dunn reached C1 on 23 April and left the expedition for personal reasons.

  Wright reached C1 on 23 April; he was suffering from a bad cough and left expedition early.

  Sanchez never left BC; his father died and he left the expedition on 18 April.


expid: LHOT16105
peakid: LHOT
year: 2016
route1: W Face
nation: Iran
leaders: Mahmoud Hashemi
sponsor: Iranian Everest & Lhotse Expedition 2016
bcdate: 2016-04-18
smtdate: 2016-05-10
termdate: 2016-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 8460m due to Ang Phurba's death and bad weather
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-161-37)
campsites: BC(18/04,5350m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(07/05,7050m),C4(18/04,7800m),xxx(19/04,8460m)
agency: Prestige Adventure
primid: EVER16137
routememo:
  BC  18/04  5350m
  C1   --     --	
  C2  24/04  6400m
  C3  07/05  7050m
  C4  18/05  7800m
  HPt 19/05  8460m by Hashemi, Maani, Nasiri, Dorje Sherpa at 12:10 pm.

  On 19 May team set out from C4 at 3 am. They were behind the four rope-fixing Sherpas from Arun Treks. Couloir was snowy. When they reached high point, Ang Phurba, who was part of the rope-fixing team fell past the climbing team at about 12:10 pm. Apparently Ang Phurba had been trying to pull out the old fixed rope, slipped and fell to his death. They descended to C2, where they arrived at about 6 pm. On 20 May they went to BC and decided that they would go back up again if the weather allowed. However, weather was bad and they abandoned their attempt.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C3 to high point to C3 by members and Sherpa.

  Sherpa:
    Dorje Sherpa


expid: LHOT16107
peakid: LHOT
year: 2016
route1: W Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Kenji Kondo
sponsor: Adventure Guides Lhotse Expedition 2016
bcdate: 2016-04-23
smtdate: 2016-05-21
termdate: 2016-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 8500m due to lack of fixed rope
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-161-30)
agency: Cosmo Treks
primid: EVER16130
campsites:
  BC(23/04,5350m),C2(01/01,6400m),C3(17/05,7000m),C4.EVER(18/05,7900m),Smt.EVER(19/05),C4.LHOT(20/05,7800m),xxx(21/05,8500m)

routememo:
  C4  20/05  7800m
  HPt 21/05  8500m (point of dead body just below the summit) by Ito, Kondo, 
             Phurba Chhiri and Cheppa at 3 pm.

  Team left C4 for the summit at 6 am. The fixed rope stopped at 8150m. Kondo took the lead. He found the ice axe of Ang Phurba (the Sherpa who fell to his death on 19 May) at 8250m, which came in handy as he needed two axes for his alpine-style climb. He took some of the old fixed rope and found some coiled up rope, tied it all together and produced a 50m long piece of rope, which he fixed (about 15 pitches) and lead the team to the high point that way. 

  On the way down he used the same system and everyone arm-rapped down. They descended to C4, where they arrived at about 6 pm, had a rest and Kondo and Ito descended to C2, where they arrived at 11 pm. Phura Chhiri and Cheppa stayed at C3. On 22 May they arrived at BC.


expid: LHOT16108
peakid: LHOT
year: 2016
route1: W Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Mingma Gyalje Sherpa
sponsor: Dreamers Destination Everest & Lhotse Expedition 2016
countries: China, Turkey
bcdate: 2016-04-19
smtdate: 2016-04-19
termdate: 2016-05-28
termnote: Abandoned at 8450m due to Ang Phurba's death
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-161-25)
agency: Dreamers Destination Treks
primid: EVER16125
campsites:
  BC(19/04,5350m),C1(04/05,6000m),C2(06/05,6200m),C3(08/05,7200m),C4.LHOT(19/05,7800m),xxx(19/04,8450m)

routememo:
  Ma, Dong and Mingma Gyalje reached 8450m on Lhotse on 19 May starting from Lhotse C4. At 12:07 Ang Phurba fell past them and they turned back. Ma and Mingma Gyalje stayed at C4 and continued to Everest the following day. Dong descended to C2.

  Irmak did not leave BC; he stayed there for the whole of the expedition.

  Accident: Mingma Gyalje offered to bring up fixed rope from lower down, however, the Arun Sherpas, who were fixing, said they did not need it as there was enough old rope. At about 8500m the Sherpas had run out of rope and continued toward the summit without. Ang Phurba must have slipped and fallen.


expid: LHOT16109
peakid: LHOT
year: 2016
route1: W Face
nation: Singapore
leaders: Swee Chiow Khoo
sponsor: Singaporean Lhotse Expedition 2016
bcdate: 2016-05-01
smtdate: 2016-05-19
termdate: 2016-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 8500m due to Ang Phurba's death
campsites: BC(01/05,5350m),C1(08/05,6000m),C2(09/05,6400m),C3(17/05,7050m),C4(18/05,7800m),xxx(19/05,8450m)
agency: Dreamers Destination Treks
routememo:
  BC  01/05  5350m
  C1  08/05  6000m
  C2  09/05  6400m
  C3  17/05  7050m
  C4  18/05  7800m
  HPt 19/05  8450m by Khoo, Mingma Gyalje and Dawa Gyalgen at 12:07 pm.

  On 19 May team set out from C4 at 2:30 am. They were behind the four rope-fixing Sherpas from Arun Treks. Couloir was snowy. When they reached high point, Ang Phurba, who was part of the rope-fixing team fell past the climbing team at 12:07 pm. It was a very windy day and he must have slipped. They decided to descend to C4, where they spent the night. On 20 May to C2.

  They made second attempt and climbed to C3 on 24 May. On 25 May they aborted the second summit attempt due to high winds. They descended to BC on 26 May.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to high point to C3 by Khoo and Sherpas.

  Khoo's summit attempt was joined by Ma Yi-Lamu, Dong Hong-Juan and Mingma Gyalje.
  			
  Sherpa
    Dawa Gyalje (Dawa Gyalzen), Beding, 4/03/1980


expid: LHOT16110
peakid: LHOT
year: 2016
route1: W Face
nation: India
leaders: Debasish Biswas
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Lhotse Expedition 2016 (Biswas)
countries: Netherlands, Serbia
bcdate: 2016-04-22
smtdate: 2016-05-19
termdate: 2016-05-29
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to death of Ang Phurba
campsites: BC(22/04,5350m),C1(26/04,6100m),C2(27/04,6400m),C3(18/05,7200m),C4(19/05,8000m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  22/04  5350m
  C1  26/04  6100m
  C2  27/04  6400m
  C3  18/05  7200m
  C4  19/05  7750m
  HPt 19/05  7750m by Biswas.

  When Biswas reached C4 on 19 May at noon he heard that Ang Phurba took a fall from Lhotse. He immediately descended to C3 the same day. On 21 May he reached C2. He stayed there until 24 May and ascended again for another summit push. He reached C3 on 25 May. On 26 May he descended to BC due to bad weather. Expedition abandoned. 

  Oxygen:
    C3 to top (high point) to C3 by Biswas; C4 to top to C4 by Sherpa [??].


expid: LHOT16111
peakid: LHOT
year: 2016
route1: W Face
nation: Iran
leaders: Mehdi Gholipour
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Lhotse Expedition 2016 (Gholipour)
countries: Brazil, China, Japan
bcdate: 2016-04-19
smtdate: 2016-05-19
termdate: 2016-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 8460m due to death of Ang Phurba
campsites: BC(19/04,5350m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(10/05,7100m),C4(18/05,7800m),xxx(19/05,8460m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  On 16 May Mehdi went directly from BC to C3 (took him 8 hours), then rested there for 3 hours and continued to C4, where he arrived at 4 am on 17 May. As the weather was bad up there, he went back to C3, where he met Sattar Forough, who had come up from C2.

  On 19 May they left C4 at 3 am. Windy, but clear. Couloir was snowy. Good climbing conditions. They reached 8460m when Ang Phurba fell down at about 12:07 and everyone who was climbing on the mountain went down. They actually wanted to continue but the Sherpas forced them to go down. They went to C4, packed their stuff and descended to C3, where they spent the night. On 20 May they descended to BC.

  They were told that Lhotse climbing was finished, so they decided to abandon their summit attempt.


  Carlos Santalena was an Himalayan Ascent client on the SST permit.


expid: EVER16172
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Shekhar Bachinepally
sponsor: Transcend Adventures Everest North Expedition 2016
approach: Lhasa->Gyantse->Shigatse->Shegar->Tingri
bcdate: 2016-04-20
smtdate: 2016-05-20
smttime: 0620
termdate: 2016-05-24
achievment:
  1st Indian Forest Service Officer Prabhakaran
  1st Indian Police Service Officer Ms. Ramamurthy

agency: Arun Treks
campsites:
  BC(20/04,5200m,IC(27/04,5900m)ABC(28/04,6400m),C1(03/05,7100m),C2(18/05,7700m),C3(19/05,8300m),Smt(20/05)

routememo:
  The team members and Sherpas started their summit push from C3 between 9;30-10 pm on the 19 May. First one to reach summit was Sharma at 6:20 am (NST) and last one Ramamurthy at 9:40 am. They stayed on summit about 30 minutes the descended to C3 between 12 Noon and 8 pm. Sharma went down to ABC where he arrived at 6:30 pm, Prabhakaran and Dhubi stayed in C1. Next day 21 May all went down to ABC. High point for Munne was 8400m as he was slow. Jayswal went up to 6700m on 28 April.

  Oxygen: 
    Members from C1->summit->C1 
    Sherpas from C2->summit->C2

  Sherpas:
    Nima Nuru (Thami)
    Lakpa Nuru
    Phurita
    Pemba Tenjing
    Ming Nuru
    Gyalgen
    Dorji
    Saduk (Pheriche)


expid: GORK16101
peakid: GORK
year: 2016
route1: S side
nation: UK
leaders: Julian Freeman-Attwood
sponsor: Gorakh Khang Expedition 2016
termnote: Did not climb due to illness on approach march
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
routememo:
  From Freeman-Attwood - 6 May 2016

  Everything has gone badly. My friend Phil Bartlett got ill at Simikot and could not go on. As there were only two of us left, we felt that in such a remote spot 10 days on, we would prefer to wait another year. (Based on my general rule of three in case of mishap which has happened many years ago in Mongolia when Lindsay had a major accident). 
    
  So it's all disappointing, but we will leave it for another time.


expid: TUKU16103
peakid: TUKU
year: 2016
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Javier Valdes
sponsor: Spanish Tukuche Expedition 2016
approach: Besisahar->Ngadi->Chame->Pisang->Manang->Thorung La->Jomsom
bcdate: 2016-04-28
smtdate: 2016-04-30
termdate: 2016-05-02
termnote: Abandoned at 5700m due to strong winds
campsites: BC(28/04,5100m),C1(30/04,5700m),xxx
agency: Annapurna Treks
routememo:
  High point on 30 April at 5700m by Badia, Rojo Ortiz, Canal Bosch, Casado, Codina, Herrera, Munoz, Sala Camprubi, Torras, Traveset, Valdes, Pasang Ngima, Redar Lhomi Bhote, Bikalal Tamang and Kaji. The team spent night at C1 on 30 April.

  Climb abandoned on 30 April due to strong winds and forecast of progressive storm for next five days. No more time to wait for another try.


expid: AMAD16102
peakid: AMAD
year: 2016
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Lara Miller
sponsor: Satori Adventure Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Argentina, Brazil, France, Slovenia, UK
smtdate: 2016-04-29
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,Smt(29/04)
agency: Satori Adventures
routememo:
  Eliana Molina and Gonzalo Cabral were TAGnepal clients on Satori permit.

  Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman were Trekking Camp Nepal clients on Satori permit. They climbed Ama Dablam for acclimatization in preperation for an attempt on Chamlang, which was later abandoned due to bad conditions on Chamlang.


expid: NEMJ15301
peakid: NEMJ
year: 2015
route1: N Face
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Michael Van Berkel
sponsor: Dutch Nemjung Expedition 2015
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  After inspecting the route to access the N Face of Nemjung, the team decided that it was not safe to get onto the glacier below the north wall in a safe manner and thus reach the mountain. Instead, they climbed Himlung.


expid: PAND15301
peakid: PAND
year: 2015
route1: NE Face from S
nation: Japan
leaders: Kei Taniguchi
sponsor: Eastern Nepal Expedition 2015
approach: By bus and trekking
bcdate: 2015-10-26
smtdate: 2015-11-14
termdate: 2015-11-16
termnote: Abandoned about 6600m due to exhaustion
agency: Cosmo Treks
campsites:
  BC(26/10,5130m),IC(01/11,5400m),ABC(02/11,5550m),Biv(03/11,5830m),Biv(04/11,5990m),Bivs(11-14/11,5550m-6600m),xxx

routememo:
  Nov 01-04 - 4 days of reconnaissance.
  Nov 10-15 - summit assault (from BC to 6660m).

  Taniguchi and Wada turned back at about 6600m due to exhaustion.


expid: PUTH15303
peakid: PUTH
year: 2015
route1: NE side
nation: Germany
leaders: Markus Walter
sponsor: Diamir Putha Hiunchuli Expedition 2015
countries: Austria, UK
bcdate: 2015-10-17
smtdate: 2015-10-28
termdate: 2015-11-02
termnote: Abandoned due to high winds and snowfall
campsites: BC(17/10,4950m),C1(20/10,5480m),C2(24/10,5900m),C3(28/10,6380m),xxx
agency: Multi Adventure
routememo:
  From arrival in BC until leaving BC, daily summit winds of >100km/h. Snowstorm with ~50km/h in C3 on final attempt.

  Fixed rope:
    50m between C2 and C3, removed afterwards, not necessary.


expid: SALW15301
peakid: SALW
year: 2015
route1: SE Face
nation: USA
leaders: Luke Smithwick
sponsor: Himalayan Alpine Guides Saldim Expedition 2015
bcdate: 2015-10-24
smtdate: 2015-10-24
termdate: 2015-11-02
campsites: BC(24/10,5300m),xxx
agency: Real Himalaya
routememo:
  From himalaya-alpine.blogspot.com:

  We completed the Yaphu Ri expedition for 2015 early. On the 19th of October, we flew into Tumlingtar, and swiftly trekked into base camp in 5 days, arriving on the 24th in the afternoon to 5300m and the base of Yaphu Ri.

  This was our first time in this base camp, and it is truly an extraordinary. I think it is common news now that the peak remains unclimbed, and we simply didn't get the weather we needed. We were getting clear skies from 11 pm to 10 am each day until the 29th of October, with each day bringing in cloud cover and moderate snow fall.

  We could have worked with these windows and gotten the summit, but it started to snow on the 29th, and continued until 1st of November. We could get small hour long clearing spells and we could see that the peak wasn't getting a ton of snow, but certainly enough to give us pause. Winds whipped during these clearing spells, and there was significant snow loading on the upper slopes of our route, and spindrift avalanche pouring down all aspects.

  We considered the weather, and upon getting the forecast on the 1st of November, decided to call the expedition. We could have sat in base camp in the clouds for another week, but was that enjoyable?

  There was ice climbing and rock to climb around base camp, but it was serac ice and the rock was wet from the snow. I knew we weren't going to get our window that we needed, and so Brian and I decided to call it and head out before the snow piled high on the passes that led us out of the region. We will be back, and of course it was a great trek in and out, and a really nice time in the wilderness. 

  -Luke Smithwick


expid: TASH15302
peakid: TASH
year: 2015
route1: S side?
nation: Spain
leaders: Javier Alvaro
sponsor: Spanish Tashi Kang Expedition 2015
termnote: Abandoned at 6015m due to strong winds and fatigue
campsites: BC(4900m),C1(5500m),xxx(6015m)
agency: Global Link Treks
routememo:
  From Javier Francisco Alvaro's Facebook page:

  La montaña del Tashi kang nos sorprende con su belleza, hemos intentado subir a su cumbre de 6386 metros, quedando a tan sólo a 370 metros. Un esfuerzo máximo a gran altura que requiere un gran esfuerzo. Muy contento y emocionado por todo lo vivido en Nepal.

  The Mountain of the tashi kang surprises us with her beauty, we have tried to climb to the summit of 6386 meters, staying at only 370 meters away. A maximum effort to great height that requires a great effort. Very happy and excited for all lived in Nepal.


expid: OMIT16101
peakid: OMIT
year: 2016
route1: E Face-N Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Brian Jackson
sponsor: Unclimbed Peak Omitso Go 2016
approach: Chot Chot->Beding->Na->Dudh Pokhari
bcdate: 2016-04-22
smtdate: 2016-04-24
termdate: 2016-04-25
termnote: Abandoned at 5600m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(22/04,5100m),ABC(24/06,5600m),xxx
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  The weather was atrocious; we could not find a route across the hanging glacier due to snow cover.

  Route was via the East Face on the hanging glacier up on to the North Ridge (Tibet border). Due to snow fall every day at about 2 pm onwards; large accumulation of snow, so we could not find a safe route across the hanging glacier to get to the ridge to set up for an Advanced Camp.


expid: HIML16201
peakid: HIML
year: 2016
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Matthias Janssen
sponsor: Das Grosse Draussen Expedition 2016
approach: Besisahar->Koto->Meta->Himlung BC
bcdate: 2016-08-09
smtdate: 2016-08-18
termdate: 2016-08-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6275m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(09/08.4700m),C1(13/08,5200m),C2(16/08,5800m),C3(18/08,6275m),xxx
agency: Adventure Geo Treks
routememo:
  C3 at 6275m reached by Janssen, Chandra Shar Rai and Kumar Magar on 18 Aug. Team wanted to start at 1 am for summit, however, the weather was bad and they decided not to head out. At about 6 am the weather cleared, but it was too late to start and they descended. After deciding to descend they went all the way to BC. They started at 7 am from C3 and reached BC at 4 pm.

  Fixed rope: 400m between C1 and C2


expid: CHOY16110
peakid: CHOY
year: 2016
route1: NW side
nation: Romania
leaders: Adrian Valean
sponsor: Romanian Ski Cho Oyu Expedition
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to lack of strength and support
campsites: xxx(7000m)
routememo:
  Translated by Google from Romanian website:

  Adrian Valean climber, after the rise of the Himalayas without oxygen and Sherpas: It was the hardest expedition

  Thursday, May 12, 2016, 3:19 pm.

  Mountaineer Adrian Valean announced that it managed to reach over 7000 meters altitude in the Himalayas without oxygen and without Sherpas, but failed to climb and descend on skis over 8200 meters, as he proposed in because it was 'rock and ice and very little snow'.

  "Howdy friends! I turned in Katmandu, Nepal, after 4 weeks. It was certainly the hardest expedition and experience of mountain yet. To climb a peak of 8000m, difficult to climb without oxygen and without the support of Sherpa's very difficult to climb solitary and especially to and want to descend on skis is really extreme and although I pulled so hard, I managed to achieve what I wanted. The conditions on the mountain made it impossible attempt to ski: rock and ice and very little snow "Romanian climber wrote in a post on the homepage of Facebook.


expid: AMAD16103
peakid: AMAD
year: 2016
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Romania
leaders: Dima-Teofil Vlad
sponsor: Snowy Horizon Ama Dablam Expedition Spring 2016
countries: New Zealand, USA
smtdate: 2016-05-09
campsites: BC,C1(5700m),C2(6000m),C3,Smt(09/05)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  Groups of independent teams organized by Snowy Horizon Treks.


  Translated from Google from Romanian website:

  Romanian team of Ama Dablam peak conquered the Himalayas without supplemental oxygen and Sherpas

  Alone on the mountain climbers from other countries that withdrew because of weather conditions and, Marius Gane, Teo Vlad and Zsolt Torok reached on May 9 Ama Dablam peak.

  Although it has "only" 6812m, Ama Dablam is considered one of the most difficult peaks. Ama Dablam ("necklace Mother") was approached by Romanian team on the ridge south-west with three camps, the last of which just under Dablam glacier. On May 9, three of the five participants reached the summit without using supplemental oxygen and without the local guides, Sherpas.

  "We had three camps. I was alone on the mountain. The other teams withdrew because conditions and weather. Snow day. A growing technique. If the public has been accustomed to perceive climbing like climbing the highest mountains and to lost essence that by climbing the steep walls of rock and ice, then Ama Dablam is an opportunity to give an example of what it means climbing at altitude. The difficulties are given by rock walls and in the last part of a side of ice. If in autumn usually mount is fully equipped with fixed ropes, now on much of the route we had to fend for themselves with cords of our as we scramble in the Carpathians, only that it was almost 7000m. Day by the peak was dramatic, lasted 23 hours. I have reached, Marius Gane and Zsolt Torok. In season have come just four climbers, all the top. the best known among them Jonathan Griffith." said Teo Vlad quote the blimunda-walk.blogspot.ro.


expid: CHAM16102
peakid: CHAM
year: 2016
route1: N Spur
nation: UK
leaders: Andy Houseman
sponsor: British Chamlang Expedition 2016
termnote: Abandoned at 5400m due to bad conditions
othersmts: Summited Ama Dablam (AMAD-161-02)
campsites: BC(5000m),ABC(5300m),xxx(5400m)
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal
routememo:
  From Alpine Club website:

  Chamlang (7319) - Montane Alpine Club Fund trip news

  News from Andrew Houseman on his attempt with Jon Griffith on the north spur of Chamlang (7319m) in Nepal supported by the Montane Alpine Club Climbing Fund. But not a totally wasted trip for Jon and Andy: their acclimatisation was an ascent of Ama Dablam.

  By Andy: Chamlang wasn't to be this year. Even the initial easy snow slopes were going to be difficult to access as Jon found out here on the first of only two pitches we climbed. Looking across from Ama Dablam we knew the route wasn't in the conditions we need, the whole Everest region was exceptional dry this spring. All we found was loose rotten rock and not a single bit of usable neve. The climbing was going to be too slow and the thought of dangerous, loose rotten rock for pitch after pitch once/if we got into the meat of the route higher up wasn't exactly motivating or what we were after. Back in base camp later that day as the usual afternoon snow started and the sounds of thunder echoed around the valley we were pretty relived we'd bailed rather than carrying on higher just to have a look like we'd briefly contemplated.


expid: LHOT16112
peakid: LHOT
year: 2016
route1: W Face
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Lhotse Expedition 2016
countries: Japan
bcdate: 2016-04-10
smtdate: 2016-04-29
termdate: 2016-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 7050m due to death of Ang Phurba while rope-fixing
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-161-12)
campsites: BC(10/04,5267m),C1(28/04,6057m),C2(29/04,6493m),xxx
agency: Mountain Experience
primid: EVER16112
routememo:
  Hunter and Semba planned to attempt Lhotse after Everest, but made no attempt after accident to Ang Phurba curtailed efforts on Lhotse by most teams.


expid: EVER16174
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Chris Harling
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Everest North Expedition 2016
approach: Kathmandu->Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2016-04-19
smtdate: 2016-05-22
smttime: 0440
termdate: 2016-05-25
agency: Makalu Adventure
campsites:
  BC(19/04,5200m),IC(21/04),ABC(22/04,6400m),C1(06/04,7000m),C2(20/05,7500m),C3(21/05,8300m),Smt(22/05)

routememo:
  From Adventure Peaks website:

  21st May 10:00pm Nepali Time

  The whole team reached the top camp between 12:30pm & 2:30pm Nepali time today. For the last 8-10 hours they have been resting, cramming in what calories they can manage to consume and trying to keep hydrated. After years of preparation for each memeber of the team it all comes down to the next 8-12 hours to achieve, what for some will have been a life long ambition, of standing on the highest point on earth.

  Chris called to say the team left right on time at 10pm Nepali time and so far everything is looking good for their bid. Mick is continuing to not use oxygen, but has made the decision to carry 2 cylinders just in case. All being well the next update will be from when the team reach the NE Ridge in hopefully a couple of hours time.

  21st May 11:45pm Nepali Time

  Chris has just made a very brief call. The team have made it to 8400m, the junction point with the NE Ridge. All the team are going well. They are now 1km from the summit, albeit it normally takes 6-8 hours to climb that final kilometer!

  22nd May 04:40am Nepali Time

  Great news, just after first light, Mick Allen is the first climber to reach the summit this morning. He switched over to using oxygen from about 8400m after his feet started to get really cold, so a really sensible decision by Mick to carry the oxygen. The oxygen made a huge difference and he started to get feeling back in his feet after 10 minutes. Not sure if he was also drinking rocket fuel while he was up their but he’s made the summit in fantastic time. The rest of the team are still making their way up towards the summit and will hopefully join him soon.

  22nd May 08:30am Nepali Time

  Another succesful summit bid is accomplished. A big well done to the team for their efforts. Chris has just left a very muffled message (he didn't take his mask off when talking), it seems despite having signal and trying to keep the sat phone warm in his suit he was struggling to make a call connect. From what I've been able to decipher from the call Al Ball & Andrew Smith decided to turn round just below the 1st Step and are back down at Camp 3. The rest of the team carried on and reached the summit around 5am Nepali time Mick, Chris, Andrew Whyte & Phurba, closely  Followed by Andrew Taylor & Lhakpa. They are now on descent to Camp 3. At the time of the call Chris was with Andrew Whyte and about 25 minutes away from camp where he will call again. Andy Taylor is not too far behind with Lhakpa. We wish them a safe journey back down the mountain.

  22nd May 11:44am Nepali Time

  Chris has just called in from Camp 3 to give an update on the teams progress and clarify the events of the summit morning. The weather forecast the team received turned out to be pretty accurate, early on the clouds were coming and going and there were light winds, but the increased humidity menat that it did eventually cloud out and there was a light dusting of snow. The winds did pick up later on to around 20 knots, which didn't cause major issues for the summit bid, but the wind combined with the humidity meant that their suits & zippers were rimmed up with ice, causing a Chris a problem of not being able to get the phone out of his suit for considerable time, as well as radio microphones icing up.

  The team decided to have planned split departure times with Mick, Al & Phurba leaving at 8pm last night, Andrew Taylor, Andrew Smith & Lhakpa at 9pm and Andrew Whyte, Chris & Phurba at 10pm.  Al Ball & Andrew Smith decided to head down with Phurba just below the 1st Step at around 8550m, a tremendous effort for both of them,  and are now down at Camp 2 and planning to clear down to the North Col today.

  Mick reached the summit around 4:40am followed by Chris, Andrew Whyte & Phurba at 5am. Andy Taylor & Lhakpa reached the summit around 5:30am. Due to the wind & cold Chris said they spent around 15 minutes on the top before heading back down the mountain.

  Mick is already on his way down to Camp 2 at 7600m. Chris, Andrew Whyte, Andy Taylor, Phurba & Lhakpa have been having a bit of well earned R&R at Camp 3, and just as Chris was calling in, they were about to set off down to Camp 2.


expid: EVER16175
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Satish Man Pati
sponsor: Big Smile Everest Expedition 2016
smtdate: 2016-05-15
smttime: 0745
campsites: Smt(15/05)
agency: Big Smile Nepal
routememo:
  For Everest, Satish said his client got sick and did not come to Kathmandu at all. He managed to negotiate with Seven Summit Treks to include him to go to summit.


expid: CHOY16112
peakid: CHOY
year: 2016
route1: NW side
nation: Sweden
leaders: Per Fredrik Ostman
sponsor: V600E Cho Oyu 2016
countries: Spain
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2016-04-18
smtdate: 2016-05-16
smttime: 1700
termdate: 2016-05-19
campsites: BC(18/04,4900m),ABC(22/04,5700m),C1(25/04,6400m),C2(14/05,7200m),C3(15/05,7600m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Team departed for summit on 16 May at 8 am, summited at 5 pm and stayed 15 minutes.
  Good conditions, good snow. Bolanos Quesada collapsed on the summit. Ostman gave him food and lots of sugar that got him up again and they then descended to C3, where they arrived at 9 pm. Bolanos Quesada was very tired after his collapse, but managed to get down by himself. In the evening of 16 May strong winds set in.

accidents:
  Bolanos Quesada has slight frostbite on his first two big toes on the left foot; he discovered it in C1 on 17 May.


expid: AMAD16302
peakid: AMAD
year: 2016
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Felix Berg, Holly Budge
sponsor: SummitClimb Ama Dablam Expedition 2016 (Group 1)
countries: Australia, Austria, India, Norway, Poland, Spain, UK
approach: Lukla->Namche=>Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2016-10-18
smtdate: 2016-10-27
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2016-11-03
campsites: BC(18/10,4500m),ABC(19/10,5100m),C1(20/10,5400m),C2(26/10,5800m),Smt(27,30-31/10)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  First summit team set out on 27 Oct at 2:30 am, reached summit at 10:30 am and stayed one hour, then returned to C2 between 3:30 and 4:30 pm. Weather fine, conditions perfect, strong wind from C3 site until summit.

  Second summit team set out on 29 Oct at 11:30 pm, reached summit at 3 pm on 30 Oct and stayed 1-1/2 hours, then returned to C2 at 11:30 pm. Good weather, good conditions, no wind.

  Third summit team set out on 31 Oct at 12 am, reached summit at 8:30 am, stayed 1 hour and returned to C2 about 4 pm. Best weather, best conditions, no wind.

  Udai Dadwal remained at BC to join the next SummitClimb team for a summit attempt with Gelbu Sherpa.


expid: AMAD16303
peakid: AMAD
year: 2016
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: SummitClimb Ama Dablam Expedition 2016 (Group 2)
countries: Australia, Germany, Kazakhstan
bcdate: 2016-11-12
smtdate: 2016-11-16
termdate: 2016-11-24
campsites: BC(12/11,4600m),C1(15/11,5700m),C2(5950m),Smt(20,22/11)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  Dan Mazur was the leader in name only (he was on Baruntse instead).

  This group was divided into 3 sub-groups:

    4 Americans from ECP Expeditions (Explorers Club of Pittsburgh):
      Jacob Casey
      Ron Edwards, Jr. 
      David Martin
      Don Wargowsky (leader)

    Australian-German couple:
      Anna Bolmat 
      Philipp Hammes

    Kazahkstan-American/Russian couple:
      Yuliya Argunova
      Rostislav Khrapko

  Each team climbed independently of each other with SummitClimb providing the logistics.

  The ECP group first went to Island Peak and then on to Ama Dablam BC on 12 Nov. They were joined by the other two couples.

  On 20 Nov, the Bolmat-Hammes couple summited (with Lhakpa Tendu). On 20 and 22 Nov, the ECP team summited (Edwards and Wargowsky on 20 Nov and Casey with Lhakpa Gelu on 22 Nov).

  On 21 Nov, the Argunova-Khrapko couple (with Sange Sherpa) started for the summit on 20 Nov at 11 pm, climbed to 6400m by 3:30 am, then turned around due exhaustion.


expid: AMAD16349
peakid: AMAD
year: 2016
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Steve Berry, Ray Smith
sponsor: British Ama Dablam Expedition 2016
bcdate: 2016-11-13
smtdate: 2016-11-25
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2016-11-28
campsites: BC(13/11,4750m),ABC(16/11,5300m),C1(20/11,5700m),C2(20/11,6300m),Smt(25/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Team left C2 on 25 Nov at 8 am, summited at 2 pm, stayed 20 minutes, and returned to C2 arriving at about 4 pm. They gave shelter for the night to another climber who did not want to descend any further that night.

  The climb was slow due to a slow climber at the front and a lot of people behind.
  The sun was shinning with very little cloud, but very cold with strong gusts of wind up to 50 kph.


expid: AMAD15331
peakid: AMAD
year: 2015
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Denmark
leaders: Karin Moe Bojsen
sponsor: Danish-Norwegian Ama Dablam Expedition 2015
countries: Norway
approach: Lukla->Namche->Luza->Cholatse BC->Pangboche->Ama Dablam Lodge
bcdate: 2015-11-18
smtdate: 2015-11-22
smttime: 1125
termdate: 2015-11-24
othersmts: Attempted Cholatse (14 Nov)
campsites: Smt(18/11,4700m),C1(19/11,5600m),C2(20/11,5900m),Smt(22/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Bojsen and Pemba left C2 on 22 Nov at 3 am, summited at 11:25 am, stayed 20 minutes, then descended to C2.

  Bojsen and Fjeld (private clients of Tim Mosedale with no climbing Sherpas) ascended directly from BC (lodge) without having to acclimatise as they already attempted Cholatse (summit attempt 14 Nov, no success). Fjeld had to descend from C1 (due to urgent business crises that required him to returm home). Pemba Sherpa [Bhote] was sent up from Tim Mosedale's team to C1 to accompany Bojsen to the summit. Weather was excellent. They came across some difficulties going over an icewall after plateau were C3 is, but managed to pass it. Conditions were otherwise very good. No other teams above C2.

  Team also attempted Cholatse, but abandoned the attempt on 14 Nov at 6350m due to the lack of enough fixed rope.


expid: AMAD16308
peakid: AMAD
year: 2016
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Lachlan Gardiner
sponsor: Australian Ama Dablam Expedition 2016
countries: USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Island Peak->Ama Dablam BC
bcdate: 2016-10-21
smtdate: 2016-11-02
smttime: 0915
termdate: 2016-11-04
campsites: BC(21/10,4500m),ABC(24/10,5430m),C1(27/10,5700m),C2(01/11,6000m),Smt(02/11)
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
routememo:
  Team started summit push from C2 at 11 pm on 1 Nov, summited at 9:15 on 2 Nov, stayed 20 minutes, then descended to C2 at 7 pm by 3 climbers and to C1 at 7 pm by other 3 climbers. Excellent weather, clear cold night. Lows on the morning of of summit bid were somewhere between -20 to -25 Celsius. Some very light winds going up the face.


expid: AMAD16306
peakid: AMAD
year: 2016
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Tim Mosedale
sponsor: Tim Mosedale's Ama Dablam Autumn 2016 (Team 2)
countries: Argentina, Germany, Norway, Switzerland, USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2016-11-17
smtdate: 2016-11-28
termdate: 2016-11-29
termnote: Abandoned due to fatal ice avalanche caused by earthquake
campsites: BC(17/11,4600m),ABC,C1,C2,C2(6300m),xxx(28/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  From Tim Mosedale - 28 Nov 2016

  Dear World,

  You may or may not have heard that there was a small(ish) 5.4 earthquake 19 km or so from Namche Bazaar at around local time.

  I would love to be able to say that everything is fine and that we are unscathed ... but it is with a huge sense of grief and loss that I have to report that Thundu Sherpa has died.

  Thundu and Ciaran were heading for the summit of Ama Dablam and were above Camp 3 making good progress when the earthquake occurred and caused them to be hit by some dislodged pieces of ice, both of them sustaining injuries.

  Without going in to the details too much Ciaran was battered and bruised but sadly Thundu suffered a head injury that meant that he didn't survive. They were climbing as a pair, a metre or so from each other and both of them were very unfortunate to be in the wrong place at the wrong time. Five minutes either way and it would have just been a close call.

  Ciaran managed to raise the alarm by radio and we immediately called our agent in Kathmandu who mustered a helicopter.

  Meanwhile Jon and Lakpa Onju, because of their respective localities at the time, arrived on the scene within an hour of the call and were able to assist as much as possible.

  The helicopter arrived at Base Camp and then flew up to the site to assess what was going to be the best course of action. When the helicopter returned to Base Camp they stripped the doors off, emptied out any excess weight and got ready to perform a long-line rescue operation. A crew member went up attached to the line and after some delicate manoeuvring at 6300m was able to detach himself at the site and hook Ciaran on to the line. Ciaran was brought down to Base Camp where he was given some medical treatment for his various injuries and the helicopter returned back to the site to bring down the long-line guy with Thundu. Jon and Lakpa Onju then made their way back down the mountain.

  The people at Base Camp (both staff and group members alike) worked in an exemplary manner. Some volunteered to go up to Camp 1 and Camp 2 to be in place for other duties that needed tending to. There were people monitoring the radio stations, taking notes to keep a record of events, making tea and coffee for the helicopter crew, administering first aid and generally working together as a team. Suffice to say that now the dust has settled everyone is in a deep sense of shock and saddened by our loss.

  Thundu leaves behind a wife and 2 boys, aged 8 and 14, who live in Kathmandu. Whilst there is a modicum of insurance available for the family it won't get the children through the rest of their schooling. To that end I am putting out an appeal for donations, however small, so that the family can rest assured that they aren’t going to face financial hardship. If you are able to help then please go to www.justgiving.com/timmosedale and mark your donation ‘For Thundu.’

  On a final note - I would prefer not to receive any comments to the effect that a Climbing Sherpa has died whilst Westerners are pursuing their dreams. Ama Dablam is a climbers mountain and all the people in my team are suitably well qualified by experience to be here. The Climbing Sherpas are not being used and abused in the duties that they perform, they are proud of the work that they do and have worked for my Sirdar for many many years forming a close knit team. This was a tragic accident as a result of an act of nature. We are surrounded by an amazing panorama of massive mountains and when the earthquake happened there weren’t multiple avalanches and landslides. There was one incident ... and our team were sadly involved.

  Thundu Sherpa ... you will be sadly missed. May you rest in peace.


expid: AMAD16307
peakid: AMAD
year: 2016
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Chad Peele
sponsor: Alpenglow Ama Dablam Expedition 2016
bcdate: 2016-10-25
smtdate: 2016-11-05
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2016-11-07
campsites: BC(25/10,4750m),ABC(26/10m,5200m),C1(30/10,5800m),C2(04/11,6340m),Smt(05/11)
accidents: Watkins suffered frostbite.
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  Team started from C2 on 5 Nov at 4:45 am, summited at 9 am, stayed 1 hour, then returned to C1. Good snow cover and cold.


expid: BURK16301
peakid: BURK
year: 2016
route1: SE Buttress-S Face
nation: USA
leaders: William Burke
sponsor: Burke Khang First Ascent Expedition 2016
countries: Mexico
approach: Lukla->Namche->Gokyo->Gokyo Lake #5->Guanara Glacier->Base Camp
bcdate: 2016-11-04
smtdate: 2016-11-09
termdate: 2016-11-11
termnote: Abandoned at 6550m due to dangerous icefall conditions
campsites: BC(04/11,5500m),C1(09/11,6400m),xxx(09/11,6550m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  The weather was perfect, but the route was blocked by a massive, and unexpected, icefall with crevasses, cornices, ice seracs and impassable snow bridges.

  Rope was fixed from the base of the mountain to C1 (approximately 3000 ft).


  From Bill Burke's blog:

  WE NEVER HAD A CHANCE
  Kathmandu, Nepal, November 13, 2016

  Namaste Family & Friends:

  I am safely back in Kathmandu, now making plans to return home.

  Thanks for following the expedition this year and for your warm thoughts, words and prayers on our behalf. I am constantly sustained by your love and support.

  As usual, I will be transmitting to you a full accounting of what happened on "The Mountain" this year. In the interim, you deserve more information than was provided in my last brief and opaque post. Here are some Cliff Notes.

  The Mountain never gave us a chance. The trip ended before it began. Such is the way of high altitude mountaineering. This great mystery and uncertainty are what bring me back to the High Himalaya year-after-year.

  About this time last Autumn, Paul Fejtek and I sat on the massive headwall leading up to the summit ridge of Burke-Khang. We were well above Camp 2 and less than 500 feet from the summit. All that remained was the fixing of lines and we would stand on top of my eponymous peak.

  Burke-Khang had other plans. Opposing cornices, concave ice walls and a massive crevasse bisecting the cornices blocked our progress to the summit. The Mountain sent us home, unsatisfied and unfulfilled.

  This year, David and I bent our minds to solving the problems encountered by Team 2015 last Autumn. Our focus was therefore on the summit ridge. How could we fix ropes around the cornices and the crevasse to avoid the obstacles last year? Could we avoid these obstacles by moving up well below the cornices in a more direct, albeit much more vertical, approach? Could we reach the summit by traversing (illegally) on the Tibet side of The Mountain?

  What we did not know is that The Mountain, in a very clever chess move, shifted its defensive emplacements much lower on its flanks in anticipation of our 2016 assault. We were caught completely off guard.

  On November 9, Naga Sherpa and Shera Sherpa set out from Camp 1 to fix the lines up the mountain and establish Camp 2 on the snowfield near the headwall leading to the summit ridge. The weather was bluebird perfect, and everyone anticipated a tough, but uneventful, day. After several hours of climbing, Naga and Shera  gained the Southeast Ridge, which leads to the snowfield on the upper reaches of The Mountain. Just like last year, Camp 2 would be installed on that snowfield.

  At that point, everything changed in a dramatic way. Unlike last year, the Southeast Ridge was heavily corniced (see definition of "cornice" below), and the cornices were weak and fragile, making forward progress extremely parlous. One false step, and the cornice collapses, sending the Sherpas to certain death. 

  Nevertheless, they  pressed on, crossing the cornices ever so gingerly. After succeeding in this mission, what opened up before their eyes was an astonishing sight: a 600-foot long icefall (see definition of "icefall" below) blocking movement up The Mountain. This icefall was populated by massive crevasses, ice towers and fragile snow bridges. Naga Sherpa, estimated that it would require at least 15 ladders just to cross the crevasses. All forward progress was halted and the Sherpas retreated to Camp 1.

  Naga Sherpa reported the ominous conditions on The Mountain and declared the Southeast Ridge impassable. To underscore his point, he observed "I was in constant fear of my life." This sentiment was also expressed by the 2015 Sherpa team as they attempted to fix lines along the summit ridge.

  David wanted to see for himself, so he organized a reconnaissance the next day. He was hoping to find an alternative route around the icefall. Shera Sherpa and Sonam agreed to join him in this mission impossible. Upon reaching the icefall, his worst fears were realized. The icefall could not be bypassed, and there was no safe passage through the icefall. Twice, he had Shera Sherpa belay (lower on a rope) him to a snowbridge in the icefall, just to see if the snowbridge would support his weight and could be crossed. As his feet touched the snowbridge, the ice cracked and he heard an ominous hollow, groaning sound, indicating a large vacuum of space below the snowbridge. More weight, and the snowbridge would collapse, hurtling both David and Shera into the deep and dark abyss.

  At this point, expedition 2016 was over. All that was left was to descend, pack and head home. We never got to establish Camp 2 or enjoy the challenge of finding a way to negotiate the infamous summit ridge.

  Round 2 goes to Burke-Khang. In political parlance, this was a landslide victory. In military terms, it was a crushing defeat. Closer to home, the surfing community would label it a big wave "Burke-Khang wipeout." Honestly, I don't think our presence even disturbed The Mountain Spirits from their solemn slumber. Certainly, no alarms were sounded. We were simply here today and gone tomorrow.

  As I record my thoughts, I have a huge smile on my face as nature should alway triumph over humankind. This is the natural and normal course of events. It is also God's infinitive and perfect plan.

  I speak for David, the Sherpa team and myself in declaring the 2016 expedition a complete success. We bonded and worked together as a team. We were privileged to enjoy vistas never before seen by our fellow travelers on planet earth. We stood on sacred ground. Naga Sherpa described Burke-Khang as a "hidden mountain" nestled deep in a "hidden valley." How aptly put. How appropriate. How perfectly described.
  In my last post, I announced my intention to "leave Burke-Khang alone." In my farewell talk to the team in the dining tent, I stated this would be my last alpine climb. Why do I make such foolish pronouncements in the heat of the moment? Now, with the benefit of reflection, away from the hardships imposed by The Mountain, here is my current thinking.

  I do not believe any mountain is "unclimbable." This diminishes too much the spirit of humankind infused by our Maker. Burke-Khang can be successfully scaled at the right time in the right conditions. The challenge is discerning that right time and those conditions. I do not want this to become an obsession or a crusade. In addition, age is taking its toll on my body and other adventures beckon. So, for now, I have no plans to launch another Burke-Khang expedition. But, I will never rule out another attempt.


expid: CHOY16313
peakid: CHOY
year: 2016
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Joachim Alle
sponsor: DAV Schwaben Cho Oyu Expedition 2016
countries: Austria
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2016-09-11
smtdate: 2016-10-03
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2016-10-08
campsites: BC(11/09,5000m),ABC(14/09,5700m),C1(20/09,6400m),C1.5(27/09,6800m),C2(28/09,7140m),Smt(03-04/10)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  BC   11/09  5000m
  ABC  14/09  700m
  C1   20/09  6400m
  C1.5 27/09  6800m
  C2   28/09  7140m
  Smt  03/10  by Pfeffer, Krautgartner, Chhiring Dorje at 9 am
  Smt  04/10  by Schuller at 8:45 am, Alle at 11:15 am, Chhiring Dorje (again) 
              at 8:45 am

  3 Oct summit team left C2 at 11:22 pm on 2 Oct. Weather was clear and calm. They stayed about half a hour on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at noon. Pfeffer and Krautgartner descended to ABC, where they arrived at 6 pm.

  4 Oct summit team left C2 at 11 pm. Weather was clear and calm. They spent about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived between 1 pm and 5 pm.

  Chhiring Dorje descended to C2 after his first summit success and summited again from C2 on 4 Oct.

  Weiss reached 7650m on 4 Oct. He left C2 at 11:30 pm. He was not able to catch up with his other two teammates and felt left alone on the mountain. He mentally could not cope with being left alone on the mountain and returned to C2.

  Felsenstein reached Camp 1.5 at 6800m on 27 Sept. He was told by Chhiring Dorje that he was incapable to climb the mountain and decided to abandon the climb. He was mentally not ready to climb.

  Oxygen:
    Not taken, not used by members
    From C2 to top to C2 by Chhiring Dorje


expid: CHOY16302
peakid: CHOY
year: 2016
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Adrian Ballinger
sponsor: Alpenglow Lightning Ascent Cho Oyu Expedition 2016
countries: USA
approach: Chengdu->Lhasa->Shigatse->CBC
bcdate: 2016-09-23
smtdate: 2016-10-01
smttime: 0815
termdate: 2016-10-03
campsites: BC(23/09,4800m),ABC(24/09,5650m),C1(28/09,6400m),C2(30/09,7200m),Smt(01/10)
achievment: Executed entire expedition in less than 2 weeks round trip (door-to-door) from USA
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  Team started from C2 at 1:15 am on 1 Oct, summited at 8:15 am, stayed 1 hour, the descended to ABC at 8 pm.

  Amazing warm conditions. Thin leather gloves, down suit too warm. Only 14 climbers on mountain total, perfect summit day. Emily and Adrian made complete ski descent from summit to C1, away from fixed ropes for main ski.

  Oxygen:
    Members climbing from C2 to smt, then down to finish of skiing in C1
    Sherpa from C2 to smt to C2.


expid: CHOY16303
peakid: CHOY
year: 2016
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Zebulon Blais
sponsor: Alpenglow Rapid Ascent Cho Oyu Expedition 2016
approach: Lhasa->Shigatse->CBC
bcdate: 2016-09-13
smtdate: 2016-10-01
smttime: 0719
termdate: 2016-10-03
campsites: BC(13/09,4800m),ABC(15/09,5700m),C1(17/09,6400n),C2(29/09,7000m),C3(30/09,7400m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  Team started from C3 on 1 Oct at 3 am, summited at 7:19 am, stayed 1 hour, then descended to C1 arriving at 4 pm. Very pleasant weather. Warm, calm winds. Scattered valley clouds early am, clear mid and upper level skies. Pm clouds overcast mid and low elevations (below C2).

  Oxygen:
    Members from C3 to smt to C1
    Sherpas from C3 to smt to C2

  Blais and Entwistle skied down from below the summit to C1.


expid: CHOY16304
peakid: CHOY
year: 2016
route1: NW side
nation: Canada
leaders: Rob Casserley, Henry Todd
sponsor: Cho Oyu Big Age 2016 Expedition
countries: Austria, Germany, Switzerland, UK
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2016-09-05
smtdate: 2016-09-30
smttime: 0845
termdate: 2016-10-04
campsites: BC(05/09,5000m),ABC(09/09,5700m),C1(15/09,6400m),C2(27/09,7140m),C3(30/09,7400m),Smt(30/09,01/10)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  05/09  5000m
  ABC 09/09  5700m
  C1  15/09  6400m
  C2  27/09  7140m
  C3  30/09  7400m (only Bierling)
  Smt 30/09  by Ross, Lhakpa Tundu at 8:45 am, Wallace, Casserley at 9:15 am,
             Mueller-Zantop, Pasang Dawa, Pilgrim, Dorjee Gyalzen at 9:45 am.
  Smt 01/10  by Bierling (No O2) and Lhakpa Thundu (2nd time) at 1 pm.

  30 Sept summit team left at midnight. Straightforward climb. All members and Sherpas descended to C2, where they arrived between 11:30 am and 5 pm. 

  01 Oct summit team left C3 at 2 am. Only few people on the route. Reached the summit at 1 pm in the clouds. Descended to C2, where they arrived at 6:45 pm.

  Todd reached 6500m on 16 Sept. It was on the first acclimatization rotation. He was suffering from bronchitis and stayed at BC for the rest of the expedition.

  Mascher reached 7200m on 29 Sept. He was intending to reach the top without O2, but felt that he was too slow and abandoned the climb.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C2 to top to C2 by all members (apart from Bierling) and 
    Sherpas; Bierling did not use oxygen.


expid: CHOY16305
peakid: CHOY
year: 2016
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Mike Hamill
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Cho Oyu Expedition 2016
countries: Australia, Germany, Canada, Czech Republic, UK
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2016-09-08
smtdate: 2016-10-02
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2016-10-04
campsites: BC(08/09,5000m),ABC(12/09,5700m),C1(16/09,6400m),C2(30/09,7140m),C3(01/10,7350m),Smt(02/10)
agency: Beyul Adventure
routememo:
  BC  08/09  5000m
  ABC 12/09  5700m
  C1  16/09  6400m
  C2  30/09  7140m
  C3  01/10  7350m
  Smt 02/10  by Werner, Payman, Barber, Yun Pan, Mauro, Hamill, Glass, Mannix, 
             plus 10 Sherpas between 6:30 and 8:30 am.

  Summit team left C3 at 2 am. Straightforward climb. They spent about half an hour on the summit and Mauro, Werner, Barber and all Sherpas descended to ABC, where they arrived at 6 pm. The rest of the summit team spent the night at C1, where they arrived at noon. 

  Gottschalk reached C1 on 16 Sept; she did not like the downtime on the expedition and quit. 

  Barnett, Peterka and Diani reached the top of the ice cliff at 6800m on 17 Sept. They turned out not to be strong enough to climb.

  Susainathan reached lake camp at 6000m. He was not prepared for a mountaineering expedition (he thought he was going to go trekking).

  Pennie and Guthrie reached C1 at 16 Sept. Both had problems with the altitude and quit.

  Shapiro reached lake camp at 6000m; he was too weak to carry on.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members and Sherpas.


expid: CHOY16306
peakid: CHOY
year: 2016
route1: NW side
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Mike Roberts
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Cho Oyu Expedition 2016
countries: Australia, Japan, Switzerland, USA
approach: Lhasa->Shigatse->Tingri
bcdate: 2016-09-06
smtdate: 2016-09-30
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2016-10-04
campsites: BC(06/09,5000m),ABC(10/09,5700m),C1(16/09,6400m),C1.5(18/09,6800m),C2(28/09,7140m),Smt(30/09,01/10)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC   06/09  5000m
  ABC  10/09  5700m
  C1   16/09  6400m
  C1.5 18/09  6800m
  C2   28/09  7140m
  Smt  30/09  by Zinn, Dawa Jangbu, Rinji at 8:30 am
  Smt  01/10  by Lamon, Roberts, Nima Tshering, Lhakpa Dorjee at 7:45 am.

  30 Sept Summit team, Roberts and Lamon left C2 at 12:30 am. After about half an hour Roberts and Lamon turned back due to stomach problems by Lamon. Zinn, Dawa Jangbu and Rinji carried on. Straightforward climb. They spent abput 30 minutes on the summit and descended to C1, where they arrived at 6:30 pm. 

  1 Oct summit team left C2 at 11:20 pm. Straightforward climb. They spent about 45 minutes on the summit. On the descent Lamon started to have severe abdominal pain. Roberts had to assist her in getting down to C3 (dependent abseil on the Yellow Band). At C3 Lamon agreed to take some painkillers and they descended to C2, where they arrived at 12:30 pm.

  Hallinan reached ABC on 10 Sept. He had a respiratory infection as well as an altitude-induced asthmatic reaction. He left BC on 13 Sept.

  Fukunaga reached C1 on 14 Sept. On 15 Sept he left the expedition due to personal safety concerns and lack of fitness.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C2 by members and Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Jangbu (Da Jangbu), Pangboche, 22/04/1973
    Rinji (Rinzin), Gorakhani-5, Solukhumbu, 26/07/1975
    Nima Tshering (Ngima Chhiri), Phortse, 22/04/1972
    Lhakpa Dorje, Sanam, Gudel, Solukhumbu, 16/11/1961


expid: CHOY16301
peakid: CHOY
year: 2016
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: SummitClimb Cho Oyu Expedition 2016
countries: Australia, Belgium, France, Germany, Sweden, Switzerland, Ukraine
approach: Lukla->Tingri
bcdate: 2016-09-05
smtdate: 2016-09-30
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2016-10-02
campsites: BC(05/09,5000m),ABC(08/09,5700m),C1(13/09,6400m),C1.5(15/09,6835m),C2(20/09,7350m),Smt(30/09)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  BC   05/09  5000m
  ABC  08/09  5700m
  C1   13/09  6400m
  C1.5 15/09  6835m
  C2   17/09  7123m
  C3   29/09  7350m
  Smt  30/09  by Fallah, McGuire, Shvab, Spirig, Whitcraft, Ziegler, Brohn, Dawa
              Jangbu, Lhakpa Gelbu, Tenji Sherpa, Lhakpa Thindu, Ang Pasang at 10 am.

  Summit team, Buckwitz and Mazur left C3 at 1 am. They were behind the rope fixing Sherpas. They spent about 20 min on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived between 6 pm and to 9 pm.

  Buckwitz was not feeling well at about 8150m and turned back; Mazur as the guide turned back with him. 

  Shvab, Ziegler and Fallah descended to C1, where they arrived at 5 pm.

  Bremond reached C2; he did not feel good on the mountain and abandoned. 

  Droemmer reached C2, but had back problems and abandoned the expedition.

  Mazur reached the plateau at about 8150m and turned back with Buckwitz, Spirig and McGuire.

  Nigh reached Camp 1.5 and had a problem with his IT band and abandoned the expedition.

  Pieper reached 7200m below C2, but felt nauseas and abandoned expedition. 

  Hankins and Klein reached Camp 1.5. Hankins was Klein's personal guide, however, Klein turned out not to be strong enough to climb the mountain. They left ABC on 25 Sept.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members and Sherpas
     Buckwitz, Spirig and McGuire did not use O2.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Jangbu (Da Jangbu), Patle-4, Okhaldhunga, 04/06/1979
    Lhakpa Gelu (Lhakpa Gelbu), Thumduk, Beni, Solukhumbu, 13/04/1977
    Tenji/Tenzing, Patle-6, Okhaldhunga, 01/06/1982
    Ang Pasang, Patle-4, Okhaldhunga, 15/06/1984
    Lhakpa Tendu


expid: CHOY16308
peakid: CHOY
year: 2016
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Ryuseki Hiraoka
sponsor: Ryuseki Expeditions Cho Oyu 2016
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2016-09-11
smtdate: 2016-09-30
smttime: 0845
termdate: 2016-10-04
campsites: BC(11/09,5000m),ABC(13/09,5700m),C1(22/09,6400m),C2(28/09,7140m),Smt(30/09)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  BC  11/09  5000m
  ABC 13/09  5700m
  C1  22/09  6400m
  C2  28/09  7140m
  Smt 30/09  by Ryuseki Hiraoka, Rumiko Saito, Yoshiki Sakai, Katsunobu Shibata, 
             Pemba Nuru Sherpa, Ngima Nurbu Sherpa, Pasang Tendi Sherpa at 8:45 am.

  Summit team left C2 at 12:10 am. Just before the rock band they got stuck in a bit of a traffic jam, but otherwise straightforward climb. They spent about 40 minutes on the summit. They descended to C1, where they arrived at 6 pm. Next day ABC.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C1 to top to C1 by all members
    From C2 to top to C2 by Sherpas


expid: CHOY16309
peakid: CHOY
year: 2016
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiroyuki Kuraoka
sponsor: Mountain Experience Cho Oyu 2016
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2016-09-11
smtdate: 2016-09-30
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2016-10-04
campsites: BC(11/09,5000m),ABC(16/09,5700m),C1(22/09,6400m),C2(29/09,7140m),Smt(30/09)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  BC  11/09  5000m
  ABC 16/09  5700m
  C1  22/09  6400m
  C2  29/09  7140m
  Smt 30/09  by Kuraoka, Hayama (Pemba Gyalgen, Thamo), Kazufumi (Pemba Tenzin),
             Hoshino (Nima Kancha) at 9 am.

  Summit team left C2 at 12:30 am. Just before the rock band they got stuck in a bit of a traffic jam ,but otherwise straightforward climb. They spent about 40 minutes on the summit. They descended to C2 and spent two hours there and continued to C1, where they arrived at 4 pm. Next day ABC.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C1 to top to C1 by all members
    From C2 to top to C2 by Sherpas.


expid: CHOY16312
peakid: CHOY
year: 2016
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Emanuele Foglia
sponsor: Italian Cho Oyu Expedition 2016
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2016-09-05
smtdate: 2016-09-30
smttime: 1315
termdate: 2016-10-03
campsites: BC(05/09,5700m),C1(09/09,6400m),C2(18/09,7150m),C3(29/09,7600m),Smt(30/09)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Summit team started from C3 at 3:30 am on 30 Sept, summited at 13:15 pm, stayed 15 minutes, then descended to C3 arriving at 17:00 pm. Perfect day weatherwise.

  Oxygen: Not used

  Sherpa:
    Nuru, Khumbu Valley


expid: CHOY16310
peakid: CHOY
year: 2016
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Ben Jones
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Cho Oyu Expedition 2016
countries: Australia
approach: Lhasa->Shigatse->Tingri
bcdate: 2016-09-06
smtdate: 2016-09-30
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2016-10-03
campsites: Smt(30/09)
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  BC  06/09  5000m
  ABC 11/09  5700m
  C1  17/09  6400m
  C2  22/09  7140m
  Smt 30/09  by Alexander, Jones, Lawless, Peterson, Kami Rita, Lhakpa Rita at 9 am.

  Summit team left C2 at 1 am. Straightforward climb. They stayed about 40 min on the summit and descended to C2 at 11:30 am. 

  Ayvazian, Maxood, Riding and Schaeffer reached C1 on 17 Sept. Ayvazian and Maxood suffered from HAPE. Riding had a death in the family and left the expedition early. Schaeffer was too unfit to climb the mountain. They all left ABC on 21 Sept.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C2 to top to C2 by members and Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Lakpa Rita Sherpa (Sirdar), Thami, 09/09/1966
    Kami Rita Sherpa, Thami, 17/01/1970


expid: CHOY16311
peakid: CHOY
year: 2016
route1: NW side
nation: India
leaders: Arun Vajpai
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Cho Oyu Expedition 2016
countries: Finland, Ireland, Japan, Nepal, Netherlands, Peru
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2016-09-12
smtdate: 2016-09-30
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2016-10-07
campsites: BC(12/09,5000m),...,Smt(30/09,02,04/10)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Seven Summit Treks Cho Oyu expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Seven Summits provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high-altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Juho Sarkila (Finland)

  Camps: BC(13/09,5000m),ABC(15/09,5700m),C1(20/09,6400m),C1.5(27/09,6800m),
         C2(02/10,7095m),C3(03/10,7350m),Smt(04/10)
  Left:  07/10/2016
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Success (11 am CST, 8:45 am NST)

  Sarkila left C3 at 3:50 am CST. Straightforward climb. He spent about 5 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where he arrived at 4:30 pm. On 05 Oct to ABC.

  Sarkila had brought his skis and had taken them to C2. However, he never used his skis as he thought he would have a better chance to summit without them.


  Arjun Vajpai (India)

  Camps: BC(13/09,5000m),ABC(15/09,5700m),C1(26/09,6400m),C2(02/10,7140m),
         C3(03/10,7350m),Smt(04/10)
  Left:  07/10/2016
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success (6:35 am)

  Summit team left C3 at 1:45 am. The big Chinese team was in front of them, but did not get in their way. They spent about 10 minutes on the summit. No view. They descended to ABC, where they arrived at 2 pm.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C2 to top to C2 by Vajpai; from C3 to top to C2 by Sherpas

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Norbu Sherpa (on Makalu with Vajpai in 2016) 
    Lhakpa Sherpa


  Mark Quinn (Ireland)

  Camps: BC(23/09,5000m),ABC(24/09,5700m),xxx(29/06,5900m)
  Left:  07/10/2016
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Not enough time to acclimatize

  Reason for abandoning the expedition: Not enough time to acclimatize. Quinn was not allowed into China before 20 Sept due to Pakistani visa in passport.


  Yuji Fukushima (Japan)

  Camps: BC(12/09,5000m),ABC(15/09,5700m),C1(20/09,6400m),C2(30/10,7095m),
         xxx(01/10,7500m)
  Left:  07/10/2016
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success (10:35 am)

  Fukushima was on his summit push; however, when he reached 7500m he ran out of stamina and turned back to C2.


  Phunjo Lama (Nepal)

  Camps: BC(13/09,5000m),ABC(15/09,5700m),C1(26/09,6400m),C2(30/10,7140m),
         C2(01/10,7350m),Smt(02/10)
  Left:  05/10/2016
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Success (7:30 am)

  Lama left C3 at 11:30 pm on 01 Oct. Straightforward climb. Spent 10 minutes on the summit and descended to ABC at 3:30 pm.


  Wilco van Rooijen (Netherlands)
  Caspar van de Gevel (Netherlands)

  Camps: BC(13/09,5000m),ABC(15/09,5700m),C1(18/09,6400m),C1.5(23/09,6800m),
         C2(24/09,7140m),C3(03/10,7350m),Smt(04/10)
  Left:  07/10/2016
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Success (10 am CST, 8:45 am NST)

  Team left C3 at 2:45 am CST. It was very cold but clear. When they were going up the Chinese team was descending. They spent about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at 2 pm. The following day they descended to ABC.


  Graciela Flor Cuenca Blas (Peru)

  Camps: BC(13/09,5000m),ABC(15/09,5700m),C1(26/09,6400m),C1.5(27/09,6800m),
         C2(30/09,7140m),C3(01/10,7350m),Smt(02/10)
  Left:  07/10/2016
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Success (10:35 am CST, 8:20 am NST

  Cuenca left C3 at 4:20 am CST on 01 Oct. She was initially going to climb with Victor Rimac, however, she joined up with the IMG group for that day. Straightforward climb. She spent 40 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where she arrived at 2 pm. Next day descended to ABC. She was the first Peruvian woman to summit Cho Oyu.


  Victor Rimac (Peru)

  Camps: BC(13/09,5000m),ABC(15/09,5700m),C1(26/09,6400m),C1.5(27/09,6800m),
         C2(7140m),C3(7350m),Smt(30/09)
  Left:  07/10/2016
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Success (13:30 pm CST, 11:15 am NST

  Rimac left ABC at 1:30 pm CST on 29 Oct. He stopped at C1 to change his boots. He spent about one hour there and then carried on to C2, where he arrived at 8 pm. He had deposited his gear at C2, but could no longer find it. He looked around and could not find it. At 1 am he decided to borrow some gear from his Spanish friends from Thamserku Trekking and carried on to the summit. He spent 45 minutes on the summit and descended to C2 where he arrived at 5 pm. The next day ABC.


expid: CHOY16307
peakid: CHOY
year: 2016
route1: NW side
nation: Australia
leaders: Rolfe Oostra
sponsor: 360 Expeditions Cho Oyu 2016
countries: UK
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2016-09-05
smtdate: 2016-09-30
smttime: 0945
termdate: 2016-10-05
campsites: BC(05/09,5000m),ABC(09/09,5700m),C1(14/09,6400m),C2(27/09,7140m),Smt(30/09,01/10)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  05/09  5000m
  ABC 09/09  5700m
  C1  14/09  6400m
  C2  27/09  7140m
  Smt 30/09  by Kaur, Oostra, Prestidge, Chayang Jangbu, Kalzang Dorje at 9:45 am
  Smt 01/10  by Oostra (again), Pasang Dawa (again), Gibson at 9:30 am.

  30 Sept summit team left at midnight. Straightforward climb. All members descended to C2, where they arrived at 2 pm. Sherpas descended to ABC apart from Pasang Dawa, who was supposed to go back to the summit with Staniforth.

  1 Oct summit team and Staniforth left C2 at 11:30 pm on 30 Sept. Staniforth turned back after about 10 minutes due to illness and lack of motivation.

  Oostra summited twice; he started his second summit push from C2.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C2 to top to C2 by all members and Sherpas.

  Sherpas: 
    Kalzang Dorje, Pangboche, 23/07/1981
    Chayang Jangbu (Chhyang Jyalbu) Bhote, Hatiya-1, 29/10/1979
    Pasang Dawa (Pa Dawa, Pando), Pangboche, 18/01/1977 (also with Casserley team)


expid: CHOY16314
peakid: CHOY
year: 2016
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Nuria Garcia
sponsor: Spanish Cho Oyu Expedition 2016
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2016-09-18
smtdate: 2016-10-04
smttime: 0915
termdate: 2016-10-10
campsites: BC(18/09,5000m),ABC(19/09,5700m),C1(22/09,6400m),C2(27/09,7140m),C3(03/10,7350m),Smt(04/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  18/09  5000m
  ABC 19/09  5700m
  C1  22/09  6400m
  C2  27/09  7140m
  C3  03/10  7350m
  Smt 04/10  by Garcia, Jangbu Sherpa at 9:15 am.

  Garcia and Alba left C3 at 1 am on 3 Oct. Alba reached 7550m after about one hour and turned back due to an upset stomach. She returned to C3, where she stayed until Garcia returned from the summit. Cloudy day. Straightforward climb for Garcia and Jangbu. They spent about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to C3, where they arrived at noon. On 5 Oct everyone down to ABC.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

  Sherpa:
    Jangbu Sherpa, Kharikhola, 19/09/1979


expid: CHOY16315
peakid: CHOY
year: 2016
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Joan Romero
sponsor: Spanish Cho Oyu Expedition 2016
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2016-09-11
smtdate: 2016-10-04
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2016-10-10
campsites: BC(11/09,5000m),ABC(14/09,5700m),C1(17/09,6400m),C2(27/09,7140m),C3(03/10,7350m),Smt(04/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  11/09  5000m
  ABC 14/09  5700m
  C1  17/09  6400m
  C2  27/09  7140m
  C3  03/10  7350m
  Smt 04/10  by Zeberio Arraras at 7 am.

  Zeberio Arraras and Romero Olmos left C3 at 1 am on 3 Oct. Straightforward climb. Zeberio Arraras stayed 20 minutes on the summit and descended to C3, where he arrived at 10am.

  Romero Olmos reached the plateau at about 8100m at about 9:30 am. However, the weather closed in when he reached it and he decided to turn back. He descended to C3 where he arrived at 11 am.

  On 5 Oct everyone down at ABC. 	

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


expid: CHOY16316
peakid: CHOY
year: 2016
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Francois Solignac
sponsor: French Cho Oyu Expedition 2015
approach: Lhasa->Shigatse->Tingri
bcdate: 2016-09-21
smtdate: 2016-10-05
smttime: 1205
campsites: BC(21/09,5000m),ABC(22/09,5700m),C1(26/09,6400m),C2(03/10,7150m),C3(04/10,7550m),Smt(05/10)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  Solignac started from C3 at 4:15 am on 4 Oct, summmited at 12:05 pm, stayed 10 minutes, returned to C3, then skied down fom C3 to 6800m.

  Lavie started from C2 on 4 Oct, reached 8100m, then turned around due to unstable weather and skied down from 8100m to 6800m.

  Cordier started from C3 on 5 Oct, reached 8150m, then turned around due to unstable weather and lateness of the day and skied down from C3 to 6800m.


expid: CHOY16317
peakid: CHOY
year: 2016
route1: NW side
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Jan Travnicek
sponsor: Czech Cho Oyu Expedition 2016
bcdate: 2016-09-15
smtdate: 2016-10-06
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2016-10-11
campsites: BC(15/09,4800m),ABC(15/09,5600m),C1(23/09,6300m),C2(30/09,7250m),C3(7550m),Smt(06-07/10)
agency: Utmost Adventure
routememo:
  Novotny set out for summit at 00:45 on 6 Oct, summited at 15:00, stayed 15 minutes, then retured to C2.

  Second team set out for summit at 00:15 on 7 Oct, summited at 18:30, stayed 15 minutes, then retured to C2 at 23:30. Good weather, about 10 cm new snow.

  Riha (a blind climber) reached 7500m.


expid: CHOY16318
peakid: CHOY
year: 2016
route1: NW side
nation: China
leaders: Wangchen Sonam
sponsor: Holy Mountain Adventure Cho Oyu Expedition 2016
bcdate: 2016-09-10
smtdate: 2016-10-03
termdate: 2016-10-06
campsites: BC(10/09),ABC,C1,C2(09/25,6900m),Smt(03-04/10)
agency: Holy Mountain Adventure
routememo:
  32 Chinese Holy Mountain clients divided into two groups for their summit push from C2 (6900m) on 3 and 4 Oct. They were accompanied by 32 Tibetans (one-on-one with clients) and 11 backup Tibetans for a total of 75 ascents.


  From Lhasa China News Network: (Google translation)

  Lhasa China News Network October 12 (by Yang Cheng DPRK) in 2016 Cho Oyu expedition Krzysztof return to Lhasa, happy to stop in the ancient world the sixth peak - 8201 meters of altitude climbing Cho Oyu.
    It is reported that the team 32 players and 43 a total of 75 mountain guides were all smooth climb, the number of which reached the summit Cho Oyu single most number of people in the world.
    It is the total sports climbing Cho Oyu instructions, Tibet Holy Mountain Adventure company general manager Tsering Samdrup introduced in previous years reported Cho Oyu peak climbing 32 members mainly from Jiangsu and Zhejiang region and Beijing, Shanghai, etc. will be. Since the beginning of 2003, China's domestic trade climbing Cho Oyu to go, the number of participants this year is up over the years.
    To protect the insured members, Friends of the climb Cho Oyu peak, ready group has sent 108 workers to do work place provides a full circle. 43 state-owned mountain guides accompany the team to climb, one in 32 players for the supply of one pair of a guide service, there are 11 full backup wizard follow. In addition, by including the mission staff in cooperation alpine, alpine relief and cook, doctor, etc.
    Tsering Samdrup retrospect, the peak of the Friends of the Qi Deng Zhuoao climbing team September 5 to Lhasa, will be held prior to clarify and set off after the ceremony ended, on September 10 arrived in Da Zhuoao Friends of the peak of the big battalions, September 12 to 25 this camp is to prohibit large high-altitude camp compliance practice between C2 altitude of over 6900 meters. September Hey, contain vulgar push Tibet nasal spray wave Adventures Cho Oyu mountain climbing team, including 16 domestic income in mountain climbing with the team leading to the summit of the climb Deng Lusheng exhibition set up to achieve.
    32 players divided into two groups, the resolution in the October 3, on the 4th morning hoisting the ultimate players covet and envy valley 43 or 75 people all smooth ascent. October 6, all of the players to Lhasa and pay the summit held in celebration diploma autonomous Mountaineering Association published.
    This year's climb, step team more choices peak days back 8201 meters sprint from C3 camp 7550 meters above sea level status. This year because of the strange weather, permanent resolution Tsering Samdrup indirectly from C2 camp over 6900 meters above sea level hoisting, "The climb of 30 days, all I have 28 days to snow, temperatures under, without a solid road, it is easy presented avalanche. thus, we move to the time necessary to relax the way through the dangerous section. "
    The inverse Lee completed the climb, so Tsering Samdrup most proud of is that in the month-long event, all personnel records again insisted whole casualties climb. "Will be even a little frostbite, snow blindness these rare high-altitude climbing incident, we do not always produce too."
    Located in Tingri County of Xigaze Cho Oyu, Everest from as long as a hundred kilometers, 8201 meters above sea level volume also make it a lot of climbers on Mount Everest before the station. (End) (Editor: admin)


expid: CHOY16319
peakid: CHOY
year: 2016
route1: NW side
nation: Russia
leaders: Sergei Larin
sponsor: Seven Summits Club Cho Oyu Expedition 2016
countries: Georgia, Poland
approach: Lhasa->Shigatse->Shegar->BC
bcdate: 2016-09-17
smtdate: 2016-09-30
smttime: 0900
campsites: BC(17/09,4900m),ABC(19/09,5700m),C1(22/09,6400m),C2(28/09),C3(29/09),Smt(30/09)
agency: 7 Summits Adventure
routememo:
  Report excerpted from www.7summits-club.com:

  17 Sept: team arrived at BC (4900m).

  19 Sept: team moved to ABC at 5700m.

  22 Sept: team moved to C1 (6400m).

  24 Sept: team went to 6650m, then descended to ABC.

  27 Sept: team went back to C1 after to rest days.

  30 Sept: Larin, Kuznetsov, Smirnov, Berdychowski, Kernitsky and four Sherpas
           (Nima, Pasang, Doji, Mutuk) summit at 9 am (NST), then descended to C1.

  05 Oct:  Valery Rozov (assisted by Nika Lebanidze) made a sky-dive descent from 
           7700m down to 6000m setting a new world record for sky-diving.


expid: AMAD16304
peakid: AMAD
year: 2016
route1: SW Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Paul Rogers
sponsor: MT Outoors (MTO) Ama Dablam Expedition 2016
countries: Australia, Poland, UK, USA
bcdate: 2016-10-23
smtdate: 2016-11-02
termdate: 2016-11-15
campsites: BC(23/10,4700m),C1(26/10,5700m),C2(02/11,6000m),Smt(02-03,06,11/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  All summit teams left C2.8 between 5-5:30 am and descended to C2, where they stayed the night.

  Rogers and Kirstin Bennet reached C1. Bennet was not strong enough and Rogers had to support Herwin Bongers down as he was suffering from HAPE.

  Everyone back down at BC on 12 Nov. Left BC on 15 Nov.


expid: AMAD16309
peakid: AMAD
year: 2016
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Jason Bailey
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Ama Dablam Expedition 2016
bcdate: 2016-10-27
smtdate: 2016-11-05
smttime: 1320
termdate: 2016-11-07
othersmts: Summited Island Peak on 25 Oct
campsites: BC(27/10,4700m),ABC(29/10,5300m),C1(30/10,5700m),C2(04/11,6100m),Smt(05/11)
agency: Himalayan Ecstasy Treks
routememo:
  Team set out from C2 at 1:30 am on 5 Nov, summited at 1:20 pm, stayed 30 minutes, then descended to C2. Perfect blue sky, cold and little wind.

  Jamie Granger stopped at 6100m on 4 Nov due to a cold.


expid: AMAD16310
peakid: AMAD
year: 2016
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Arnold Coster
sponsor: Arnold Coster Expeditions Ama Dablam 2016
countries: Belgium, Canada, UK, USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Dingboche->EverBC->Lobuje->Ama BC
bcdate: 2016-10-19
smtdate: 2016-10-31
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2016-11-02
campsites: BC(19/10,4600m),C1(22/10,5600m),C2(30/10,5900m),Smt(31/10)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Summit team left C2 on 30 Oct at 10 pm, summited on 31 Oct at 6:30 am, stayed 15 minutes, then descended to base camp. Good conditions.

  Fixed rope:
    Pemba Sherpa joined the fixing team from C2 to summit.


expid: AMAD16313
peakid: AMAD
year: 2016
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Manuel Rodriguez Gonzalez
sponsor: Club Pirineista Mayencos Ama Dablam Expedition 2016
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2016-10-24
smtdate: 2016-11-06
smttime: 1100
campsites: BC(24/10,4700m),C1(5700m),C2(6000m),Smt(06/11)
agency: Mountain Tribes Trekking
routememo:
  First intended to climb SW Ridge route for acclimatization, then try the NW Ridge route. Only the SW Ridge route was attempted.

  From Club Pirineista Mayencos blog (Google translated):

  After a long journey from Spain, with step by Dubai, Kathmandu and Lukla, and several days of trekking through the beautiful and famous Khumbu valley, the 16 members of Club Pirineísta Mayencos arrive on October 24 to the base camp of Ama Dablam. Ten days on the one hand are enjoy the wonderful scenery, and on the other, a certain anxiety on the part of the expedition to start his challenge.

  The next day begins acclimation hard work and portering material to different height fields. During this long process, group members fit differently height, delaying the scheduled date for the summit until 6 November (14 days after reaching the base camp), consuming most of the time they have available for your goals: reaching the summit by the normal route and get a perfect acclimatization and then try to climb the same mountain on its western face, "Direct American" via its main objective. This, together with the arrival of winter, the wind increased in height and freezing temperatures, away all climbers summit of their expectations and our team of its main objective. During this period, the members of the group seen as different climbers down the mountain with frostbite on their extremities, being also witnessed two complicated rescue helicopter, more than 6000 meters above sea level mountaineers who have suffered extreme cases of sickness height, which highlights the difficult challenge climbers face.

  After a tedious acclimatization, and the pressure of lack of time and the progressive tightening of conditions to climb the mountain summit date is set. On November 4 the ascent to Camp-1 starts, 5700 meters, comfortable way but very long, where you save a steep slope, to the beginning of the southwest ridge. From this point the real appear complications mountain (altitude and technical difficulty), but dwarfed by the great work of the "sherpas" tall each season install a fixed rope from this point to the top.

  The second day a rocky, winding and very sharp edge, where necessary technical rock climbing depositing them in the spectacular Camp-2, located at 6000 meters, called "Gathering of Eagles" are is crossed, where a small number of balance in tiny shops make shelves, defying gravity, but with the special charm that gives this location.

  After a short night, the ascent to the summit at two in the morning, plunged into total darkness, broken only by the light of the frontal starts. The terrain becomes increasingly vertical purely winter, combining ice climbing and snow with rock mixed areas. Gradually he is gaining height with the first light of dawn reach the big serac where sometimes the Camp-3 is mounted. several collapsed ice ridges that give access to the final part of the mountain are exceeded. From this point causes the wind presence, with altitude, mountain unprotected and low temperatures, decrease forces alpinists.

  The last hundred meters of altitude are made especially hard, getting to summit at 11 am on November 6, on a sunny morning, but very cold and windy.

  After a brief rest at the summit and enjoy the spectacular views that make this mountain an exceptional viewpoint, the long descent, a combination of successive abseiling provided by the fixed ropes depositing climbers in Camp-2 starts where rest the night after the long day.

  The next morning all the material collected height fields, and the heavy burden arrive at Base Camp, where they face the two cooks. Tired but with a big smile on their faces gaunt.


expid: AMAD16316
peakid: AMAD
year: 2016
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Willie Benegas
sponsor: TAGnepal/Benegas Brothers Expeditions (BBE) Ama Dablam 2016
countries: Switzerland, UK
bcdate: 2016-11-05
smtdate: 2016-11-09
smttime: 1125
campsites: BC(05/11,4570m),C1(07/11,5600m),C2(08/11,5900m),Smt(09/11)
agency: TAGnepal Trekking
routememo:
  Benagas summit team (Benagas, Rick, Lhakpa Gyalzen, Ngawang Pasang and Pemba Rinji) left C2 on 8 Nov, summited at 11:25 am on 9 Nov, stayed 30 minutes, then descended to C2 arriving at 8 pm. Great weather and great mountain conditions, but rope conditions poor (new ropes but old anchors).

  Christina Richard (Swiss) summited with Chhiring Sherpa on 9 Nov.

  The American couple (Gavin's) only touched BC. The Swiss pair (Bomio-Pacciorini's) gave up at C2 due to overcrowding. The British member did not climb, only relaxed at BC.


expid: AMAD16317
peakid: AMAD
year: 2016
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: John Gill
sponsor: Outdoor Explore Adventure Ama Dablam Expedition 2016
countries: Australia, USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Thami->Gokyo->Lobuche->EBC->Dingboche->Ama BC
bcdate: 2016-10-19
smtdate: 2016-10-28
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2016-10-30
campsites: BC(19/10,4600m),C1(22/10,5800m),C2(27/10,6000m),Smt(28/10)
agency: Grand Himalaya Treks
routememo:
  Gill summit team left C2 at 12:30 am on 29 Oct, summited at 10 am, stayed 1 hour, then descended to C2. Weather was good, but windy once we got to the old C3 area. It was a busy day on the mountain, so we moved slowly but consistently. Windchill caused temperatures to drop, but the summit was calm and sunny.

  Cuthbert, Passy and Pemba Nuru were a separate group.


expid: AMAD16318
peakid: AMAD
year: 2016
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Romania
leaders: Constantin Lacatusu
sponsor: Romanian Ama Dablam Expedition 2016
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2016-10-21
smtdate: 2016-10-30
smttime: 0845
termdate: 2016-11-04
campsites: BC(21/10,4600m),C1(23/10,5600m),C2(29/10,6000m),Smt(30/10,03/11)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Lacatusu and Kalden left C2 at 12:00 am on 30 Oct, summited at 8:45 am, stayed 20 minutes, then descended to C1 at 8 pm. Generally good weather on the mountain, but our summit day on the 30th was the worst due to extreme cold and winds, probably the worst day along the season.

  Gruia and Kalden (again) left C2 at 12:00 am on 3 Nov, summited at 9:00 am, stayed 20 minutes, then descended to C2 at 7 pm. Good conditions on that day.


expid: AMAD16319
peakid: AMAD
year: 2016
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Jeff Witt
sponsor: High Peak Adventures Ama Dablam Expedition 2016
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2016-10-23
smtdate: 2016-10-30
smttime: 0645
termdate: 2016-11-01
campsites: BC(23/10,4600m),C1(28/10,5800m),Smt(30/10)
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  Team left C1 at 12:15 am on 30 Oct, summited at 6:45 am, stayed 1 hour, then descended to base camp.


expid: AMAD16321
peakid: AMAD
year: 2016
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Yuri Parimbelli
sponsor: Italian Ama Dablam Expedition 2016
bcdate: 2016-10-30
smtdate: 2016-11-05
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2016-11-06
campsites: BC(30/10,4700m),C1(04/11,5600m),Smt(05/11)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Team left C1 at 4 am. Straightforward climb. After summit they descended to C1, where they stayed the night.

  No Sherpas/no oxygen/no rope fixing.


expid: AMAD16322
peakid: AMAD
year: 2016
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Sweden
leaders: Jonas Almroth
sponsor: Expedition Himalaya Ama Dablam Expedition 2016
smtdate: 2016-10-30
campsites: BC,C1,C2(29/10,6100m),Smt(30/10)
agency: Expedition Himalaya
routememo:
  From Adventure Lovers Facebook post, 30 Oct 2016 (Google translation)

  The Peak of Ama Bablam, 6856 M!! Lovely...

  This morning at 07,15 a.m. local time Jonas and Pemba reached the peak of Ama Dablam after having climbed all night on challenging and difficult parties.
  Congrats to an amazing achievement. Ama Dablam have highest respect with around the world and be counted as among the more technical climbing around Khumbudalen.

  They are really strong and last report I got a couple of hours ago, they were already down between c2 and c1. the sieves with other words to climb all the way down to bc.

  Few who can handle c2 to the top and all the way down to bc during the same day.
  I think we're trying to hire Jonas as mountain guide for next season if he gets tired of his profession at home in Sweden. Really strong done!

  Update ama dablam, 29 Oct 2016:

  Jonas and Pemba now finds itself in c2 at 6100 Feet and resting. Tonight around 23.00 so they will climb to the top directly and skip c3 which is exposed to seracen which has become much smaller than it was 8-10 years ago but it can still drop ice.

  In that they climb directly to the top they do not need to expose themselves in order to have the tent near / under seracen and spend a night there.
  We'll update as soon as we hear anything from them.


expid: AMAD16323
peakid: AMAD
year: 2016
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Xavier Carrard
sponsor: Swiss Ama Dablam Expedition 2016
smtdate: 2016-10-31
termdate: 2016-11-02
termnote: Abandoned above C2 due to overcrowding on route and messy fixed rope situation
campsites: BC,C1,C2(31/10,6000m),xxx(31/10,6100m)
agency: Expedition Himalaya permit (Snowy Horizon?)
routememo:
  Laure Mariethoz was a client of Xavier Carrard. They hoped to make the climb in alpine-style.

  Team left C2 (6000m) at 10:30 pm, but gave up just above C2 at 11:15 pm due to overcrowding and awkward system fixed ropes in place. Carrard says about 20 other climbers left C2 about at same as they did.


  Xavier Carrard (email) - 5 Feb 2017

  October 11, 1998

  On that, my dream had came true. I'd reached the summit of Ama Dablam with Jean François. It was our first Asian summit and it was a gift of nature; there were no fixed ropes, no Sherpas hauling client's affairs. We were in high altitude, on our own, and we understood both the privileges and the risks. 


  October 24, 2016

  "I should have guessed," I said to myself. When we arrived in base camp for Ama Dablam, a sort of Himalayan Matterhorn, we found 32 expeditions of 8 to 15 members each. It looked like a small town. With my client, Laure, we felt instantly out of place. We realized quickly that we were not likely to mix well with the business of high altitude climbing. This was unfortunately confirmed by the events that followed.

  October 31, 2:30 pm

  We've been waiting for an hour at the foot of the Yellow Tower. A Sherpa/porter is trying to encourage his client to move. He pulls and pushes, trying to haul the client up 30 meters of vertical climbing to Camp 2. It's a lovely pitch of a French 6a for free climbing (no grade proposed for hoisting oneself up fixed ropes).

  October 31, 10:30 pm

  I leave Camp 2 at 6000 meters.

  I just passed a piton hammered about 20% in, attached to an orange fixed rope. The next point is made up of two pitons, one put in upside down but the second is solid, and still attached to the orange rope. I start to want to turn back. The next point is a stake knocked into a crack upside down, attached to a boulder frozen into another crack surrounded by ice.

  This poor protection is financed by the 32 expeditions in place, and there are 20 
  dimwits who all left Camp 2 at the same time, never asking a single question, neither about the morals and ethics, nor about the security. They just jumar up the rope to the highest point possible.

  October 31, 11:15 pm

  I go back to Laure with a heavy heart tell her the news. We can't do this. I'm her guide, responsible for her security, and we cannot go up this rope. On top of it, Laure wanted the challenge of climbing a real summit in the Himalayas, not to jumar on fixed ropes to the top of a 6000 meter peak. We wanted the physical, psychological and emotional challenge of a climbing adventure, and we were as far away from that as one could get.

  We didn't even have the option of the normal route, seeing the number of people going up and down and the same badly fixed ropes everywhere.

  I was heartbroken to have to make this decision, but her dream of climbing under these conditions could easily have turned into a nightmare.

  November 1, 12:15 am

  Back in Camp 2 there are now 10 tents in place, some hanging out over the edges and all fixed together by a web of fixed ropes and bits of cord. We slide into out sleeping bags.

  I turn around and around the decision in my head. It's hard to accept that while we might make it to the summit, we'd be playing around the most important thing in guiding: security.

  When I think of the people we've passed since yesterday on this ridge, I'm certain that they never noticed neither the odor of the rocks, nor the iciness of the snow.  They aren't worried about the honor of climbing a sacred mountain, just pulling on the orange rope or the blue one with, in some cases, a Sherpa who changes their jumar for them at each point. Even as stressed as I am, I start to feel more sure about my decision.

  I speak with shame: Sir Edmund Hillary must be turning over in his grave. What do we have left of these magnificent conquests: Everest and Ama Dablam?

  These are a chain of fools to human vanity, colored puppets attached to their orange or black or green ropes, totally aided by their Sherpas. These marionettes might make it to the summit, but they will still never know the aroma of granite or the cold of the ice.

  Yesterday on the way up to Camp 2, I'd promised Laure a few beautiful pitches of climbing on perfect, red granite, memories from my time there in 1998. And what do I find instead, but a brand spanking new blue fixed rope, Sherpas loaded with tents, sleeping bags and hiking boots for their clients. What does a Sherpa need with 3 pairs of boots?

  Laure has hiked from the base camp with all her gear: her shoes, sleeping bag, clothes and material. And if she can't climb the beautiful pitches I'd promised her, it's not because she's too tired but that the mountain is covered with porters, fixed ropes and marionettes hanging onto the ropes for their lives.

  It's a sad failure of Himalayan climbing. And the worst of all that is that we, the mountain guides, are partly responsible, adding another layer to my shame.

  November 1, 7:30 am

  Laure and I leave Camp 2, her dream broken and she is certainly very disappointed.  But she says herself that she's was disappointed as soon as we arrived to see in what state the sacred mountains have been mistreated, abused and disrespected.
   
  November 5, 7:30am, Lukla airport

  We run into a team that we'd passed on the Ama Dablam ridge, taking the same plane.  We look at each other and I look down at their shoes, Scarpa 6000s. They're wearing them to reduce the weight of their bags. "Poor guys" I think, but then a little unkind thought comes to mind, "At least for once, they’re carrying them themselves."

  A second look confirms that the shoes are nearly new. They weren't used to hike up to Camp 2, but were part of the loads carried by the Sherpas.

  They're proud of climbing their summit, but they never used their own boots to get across the long moraine between Camps 1 and 2.

  I don't know if I can stand being on the same plane with them.

  The UIAGM guides: The whole hike back I've been turning around the sad realization that we're, the guides, are partly responsible for the commercialization of these mountains.

  I ran across 3 or 4 Nepalese proudly wearing the UIAGM badge, slap in the face.
  If we, members of this international organization, are incapable of preserving mountain climbing ethics in the face of profits, no one else is going to do it for us. And it's probably too late to do anything about it.

  And one more memory of this trip:

  I run across an Englishwoman working as a guide with a group of clients, on the same mountain with these 1500 meters of fixed ropes. Here's what our conversation consisted of:

  Me:    "So, you’re a guide?"
  Guide: "Yes and no."
  Me:    "What does that mean?"
  Guide: "Here I'm a guide, because I can work in the Himalayas, but not in Great 
          Britain. I'm not a guide there."
  Me:    "Ah, I see. It's true the mountains in Europe are more dangerous..."
         sarcasm dripping from my voice.

  How are we doing to protect our profession, our knowledge, ethics and history, from agencies taking clients to the top of the highest summits of the world with no idea of what ethics dominate this environment, and by faux guides? And on top of it, in countries that are part of the UIAGM?

  A certain minority feels there is a real violation of these sacred peaks.

  There’s a bit of hope in the tentative of the south face on the Lagunak ridge, attempted by a group of young guides from the Haute Maurienne in France. Maybe the next generation will make better decisions.


expid: AMAD16324
peakid: AMAD
year: 2016
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Jacob Schmitz, Elin Potter
sponsor: Mountain Trip Ama Dablam Expedition 2016
termnote: Abandoned above BC due to deep snow
campsites: BC(early Oct),xxx
agency: Expedition Himalaya permit
routememo:
  From Mountain Trip Facebook:

  Jacob Schmitz and Eli Potter did a bit of climbing and recon after the Island Peak climb this year. They got turned around by weather, but checked out a cool peak that they'll return to! After this, Eli went on to Ama Dablam where he was the only climber on the mountain for a couple of days, he wallowed in deep snow up high on the peak, but wisely listened to his inner voice telling him conditions weren't right, and turned around before reaching the summit. Hope to see some pics from Eli when he returns.


expid: AMAD16330
peakid: AMAD
year: 2016
route1: SE Ridge (Lagunak Rib)
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Yuri Kilichenko
sponsor: Odessa Alpclub Ama Dablam Expedition 2016
smtdate: 2016-11-13
smttime: 1740
termdate: 2016-11-15
othersmts: Summited Ombigaichen
agency: Thapa Mountain Treks
campsites:
  BC,Biv1(08/11,5600m),Biv2(09/11,5950m),Biv3(10/11,6150m),Biv4(11/11,6250m),Biv5(12/11,6400m),Smt(13/11)

routememo:
  Climbing Report:
  1. Climbing class: high altitude.
  2. Place: Ama Dablam, 6812m
  4. Route: along the Lagunak Ridge
  5. Difficulty Category: 6A (approximately)
  6. Nature of route: combined
  7. The difference in height of the route: 1200m
  8. The length of the route: 1600m
  9. The length of the sections: V k.c. - 550m, VI k.c. - 450m
  10. Average steepness of the route - 570.
  11. Used:
      52 rock hooks
      0  including bolts 
      12 fitting members
      23 cams
      24 ice screws
      64 snow anchors
      0  ck. left hooks
  12. Duration of ascent: 55 running hours,
  13. Leader: 
        Kilichenko, Yuri V. (to a height of 6400m)
      Summiters:
        Perevalov, Maksim Viktorovich
        Vasenkov, Yuriy Valerievich 
        Poberezhnyi, Petr Pavlovich
  14. Exit into Route 13:30, November 8, 2016
      Top: 17:40, 13 November 2016
      Return (to Deboche) 22:00, November 15, 2016


expid: AMAD16332
peakid: AMAD
year: 2016
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: David Orna Lopez
sponsor: Spanish Ama Dablam Expedition 2016
bcdate: 2016-10-14
smtdate: 2016-10-27
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2016-10-29
campsites: BC(14/10,5000m),C1(5850m),C2(26/10,6000m),Smt(27/10)
accidents: Maria Agudo evaculated by helicoptor to Ktm due to severe frostbite to hands and feet
agency: Incredible Himalayan Sherpa Adv (Snowy Horz pmt)
routememo:
  From http://www.lanzadigital.com/news/show/otros-deportes/maria-pilar-agudo-hace-cumbre-en-el-ama-dablam/106585

  Maria Pilar Agudo makes Ama Dablam summit, 

  On 27 October, Maria Pilar Agudo, known athlete resident in Ciudad Real and director of the shelter that NGOs Miguelturra "Smiles and Mountains" was created in Kathmandu, managed to climb to the summit of Ama Dablam, a expedition to his usual style, in total autonomy, without sponsors, without high altitude porters, without artificial oxygen, without basic services field, a difficult issue with numerous obstacles that more than once made him doubt his project. 
   
  In mid-September, Maria Pilar Agudo and sporty companion, also Spanish David Orna, left for the region of Khumbu in the Everest, to spend three weeks crossing valleys and hills and climbing peaks that would allow it to adapt to conditions lack of oxygen which involve great heights. On October 14 they reached the base of Ama Dablam, where 5000 meters mounted a desolate tent that served as their base camp. After installing a minimalist field height at 5850 meters and portage food and gas to a second field on the edge of a ridge at 6000 meters, they had to fall back to base camp to the appalling conditions of the mountain, which prevented continue climbing. More than two weeks had to wait for the snow to harden and allow progress and scale.
   
  They were 15 days of waiting where the forces, spirits, food and gas began to dwindle. Finely, October 25 undertook the definitive summit reaching her attack on 27 and being the first climbers of the season to get it. They left a summit directly from Camp 2 to 12 at night, preventing sleep at Camp 3 at 6300 meters to avoid dangerous avalanches in this area, and reached the summit at 11 am: "The way climbing it is wonderful, beautiful, art, fun and very aerial, you constantly have to empty your feet. Also very demanding physically, we had to climb vertically about 7 hours and then open footprint in the snow on slopes of 70 degrees for 4 hours to the top. At 3 in the morning started blowing an icy wind that reached 60 km/hour, the wind chill fell to -35° and remained so for hours. I returned back to Camp 2 at dusk, more than 18 hours exposed to the cold have left me sequels," explained Maria Pilar Agudo. 

  On October 28 climbers descended from Camp 2 to Base Camp where they could hydrated, warm and eat. The next day at dawn a rescue helicopter went to Maria Pilar Agudo to a hospital in Kathmandu for treatment to the major frostbite suffered in the hands and feet and that night flying repatriated urgency to Spain at the prospect of a more reliable treatment In our country. 

  Despite this success Maria Pilar did not appear pleased with the result of the expedition: "We had many problems with the Nepalese trade agencies try to avoid independent climbers, have struggled to maintain my gap in height fields, we they stole food, porters refused to reach our base camp and, even worse, I'm at risk of losing a couple of phalanges of the fingers of his right hand. Here at home I'm fine, my life is quiet and safe, but I left half my responsibilities in Nepal and welcomed my 5 children unattended."


expid: AMAD16336
peakid: AMAD
year: 2016
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Adrian Schuler
sponsor: Swiss Ama Dablam Expedition 2016
bcdate: 2016-10-15
smtdate: 2016-10-26
termdate: 2016-10-28
campsites: BC(15/10,4600m),C1(19/10,5800m),C2(20/10,6100m),Smt(26/10)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks permit
routememo:
  From Adrian Shuler's blog (Google translated):

  7 Nov 2016

  The time in Nepal was super exciting. To climb a mountain as the Ama Dablam 6812m is a tour, which can not be compared with a Alpentour. It's such a different set of rules.
   
  It has a long, multi-day march to the base camp 4600m, which is also the same used for Akkli. 

  Afterwards we had a window of 12 days for the ascent. 

  To Akkli we went up to Camp 1 at 5800m and slept there. From BC least 1200m vertical drop, far too much at once, a little Skull hum. The next day we climbed on to Camp 2 at 6100m. This is one of the most airy tent sites I have ever seen. Elevenses break and abseiling / descent to BC. 

  Three days break and Summit preparations were program. Bouldering, climbing, Jassen, UNO play etc ... oh and viiieeel food. Celebrity chef Janak has us very spoiled! 

  Start: Advance to C1. Unfortunately, my guest had to deal with a stubborn cold. His night at 5800 meters was not good. Decision in the morning - descent to BC. However, He wanted Tenji and I try it in any case. Too bad for him, but surely a wise decision!

  Next to 6100m C2: The backpacks are heavy as lead ... gasp! Nesting in the tent. Drink plenty of liquids the great view and enjoy the tranquility, just a great place on the eagle's nest. Not a soul except me and Tenji else up there. 
   
  Summit program: Start at 01.00 PM. Our plan, up to the summit and then down into the BC back to my guest. And again Prachtstag how daily. But more wind and much colder. We are fast on the road, both top fit. Eventually we meet the Sherpa Einrichterteam which has stayed at 6500m. Here, the waiting begins. Overtaking is not allowed according to Sherpa hierarchy ... 

  We reach the summit as the first "commercial" (small) group this year. Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Makalu ... all they are very close, close enough to touch. Tenji is a real rocket, soon also a mountain guide and a great guy - Thanks !!! 

  Abseiling in high speed brings us quickly to C2 and C1 further back. At 16.00 we start the descent to the BC which we reach in the already fractured darkness. 

  My guest is happy and pleased with us over the top. 

  THANK YOU for a great time of my clients and the team of Tenji, it was awesome !!! 

  Be well 
  Adi


expid: AMAD16339
peakid: AMAD
year: 2016
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Sebastian Lippacher
sponsor: German Ama Dablam Expedition 2016
approach: Phaplu->Mera Peak->Amphu Laptsa->BC
bcdate: 2016-10-19
smtdate: 2016-10-28
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2016-10-31
campsites: BC(19/10,4500m),ABC(20/10,5400m),C1(23/10,5700m),Smt(28/10)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks (Tsering Tamang)
routememo:
  Team left C1 at 12 am on 28 Oct, summited at 10 am, stayed 1 hour, then descended to C1 arriving at 7 pm. Weather was good, sunny.


expid: AMAD16342
peakid: AMAD
year: 2016
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Hari Mix
sponsor: Ascent Himalayas Ama Dablam Expedition 2016
approach: Tashi Laptsa->Thame->Namche->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2016-11-11
smtdate: 2016-11-16
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2016-11-17
campsites: BC(11/11,4600m),C1(14/11,5800m),C2(15/11,6000m),Smt(16/11)
agency: Ascent Himalayas
routememo:
  Mix and Furtemba left C2 at 4 am on 16 Nov, summited at 9:30 am, stayed 30 minutes, then descended to BC arriving at 7 pm.

  The 16th, our summit morning, was the start of a notable cold snap. It was -9 degrees in base camp, so I'm assuming it was at least -20 or -25 on the mountain. And quite windy, particularly around C3. Cold!

  Leslie Wu, Pasang Tenzing Sherpa (IFMGA guide) and Lakpa Dorje Sherpa (office manager for Ascent Himalayas) turned around at C1. Leslie contracted the flu, Pasang accompanied her down. Lakpa Dorje began climbing toward C2, but decided the climb wasn't for him.

  We had one bottle of supplemental oxygen in base camp for emergency. No one used supplemental oxygen.


expid: ANN216301
peakid: ANN2
year: 2016
nation: UK
leaders: Jamie Annetts
sponsor: British Annapurna II Expedition 2016
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m+ due to exhaustion and altitude issues
campsites: BC(3200m),C1(4900m),C2(6200m),xxx(6200m+)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Annetts and Stapley (supported by 3 porters) set up an acclimatization camp at 3200m in early November. The next day they made a carry to C1 at 4900m, followed then by a rest day. Then they made a recce to 5200m, returned to BC, then moved up to C1.

  Eventually they climbed up to their C2 site at 6200m. The climb was more exhausting and the temperatures were colder than expected. They started out the next day in cold, windy weather and made it to their next camp site in a cave. Annetts began to suffer from the altitude and they decided to abandon the climb and descend.


expid: BARU16301
peakid: BARU
year: 2016
route1: SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: SummitClimb Baruntse Expedition 2016
countries: Australia, Austria, Germany
bcdate: 2016-10-26
smtdate: 2016-11-04
campsites: BC(26/10,5400m),C1(30/10,6050m),C2(03/11,6450m),Smt(04/11,21/11)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  Baruntse 1st Group:
    Dan Mazur (S)
    Kurt Blair (S)
    Patrick Kabouw (S)
    Neils Kammerer
    Sean Kirkwood
    Stephen Rees

  Baruntse 2nd Group:
    Michael Anderson
    Gordon Larsen (S)


expid: CHUG16301
peakid: CHUG
year: 2016
route1: W Face-N Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Mark Pugliese
sponsor: American Chukyima Go Expedition 2016
approach: Rolwaling Valley
bcdate: 2016-10-31
smtdate: 2016-11-02
termdate: 2016-11-03
othersmts: Summited Yalung Ri North (5634m) on 23 Oct and Chukyima North (5945m) on 28 Oct
campsites: BC(4150m),ABC(31/10),Biv(01/11,6100m),Smt(02/11)
agency: Dreamers Destination Treks
routememo:
  Climbed Yalung Ri North (5634m) by a new route on the North Face ("Wrong way Bud", 500m, 5.6, M4) on the 23rd of October. On the 28th of October reached north summit of Chugimago North (5945m) by a 500m high possible new route (M4, AI4, 75°).

  New route on the West Face of Chugimago. On November the 1st, team left ABC at 3:30 am. Climbed all day with fun mixed pitches in the beginning, snow flutings in the middle, and difficulties up to M6 in the headwall. Reached the summit ridge at sunset. Bivouac on the ridge. On November the 2nd, team did last 4 pitches to the top reached early. Descent from that stage by one of the snow couloir further right in the face, abseiling and downclimbing it. Back to Na at 8 pm that day. Route is called "Mixed Emotions" (900m, M6 AI5 80°), starting by the crest of the buttress right of Mucic-Strazar Route, joining it in the middle section, then climbing to the left of it through the headwall.


expid: DHA116301
peakid: DHA1
year: 2016
route1: NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Phil Crampton
sponsor: Altitude Junkies Dhaulagiri Expedition 2016
countries: Australia, China, USA
approach: Pokhara->Beni->Marpha->Yak Kharka->BC
bcdate: 2016-09-08
smtdate: 2016-09-18
termdate: 2016-10-10
termnote: Abandoned at C2 due to bad weather (sudden snowstorm)
campsites: BC(08/09,4700m),Depot(5000m),C1(17,28/09,5850m),C2(18,29/09,6400m),xxx
agency: Expedition Himalaya
routememo:
  BC  08/09  4700m
  Dep 27/09  5000m by Cross and Wu
  C1  28/09  5850m
  C2  29/09  6400m (Sherpas)
  HPt 29/09  6400m at C2 all clients apart from Wu and Cross.

  On 29 Sept clients apart from Cross and Wu went to C2 to tag it and descended again to C1 to stay the night. Cross and Wu had stayed at deposit camp on 27 Sept. When the rest of the team went up to C2 and back, Cross and Wu were at C1. Night of 29 Sept all clients at C1. Morning of 30 Sept big dump of snow – all clients down to BC.

  Sherpa at C2 on 30 Sept. They descended to C1 on 30 Sept. Snow was very deep and they took a long time to get down, so they stayed at C1 for the night. Descended to BC on 1 Oct. As long-term forecast had been bad, Crampton had asked the Sherpas to dismantle all camps.

  Crampton reached C2 several times for rope-fixing.

  Team waited for helicopter until 10 Oct, but weather was too bad. On 10 Oct they trekked to Marpha and then by jeep to Beni.

  Oxygen: taken, not used.


expid: GANG16301
peakid: GANG
year: 2016
route1: S Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Chang-Ho
sponsor: Korean-Way Gangapurna & Gangapurna West (Lachenal) Expedition 2016
approach: Modi Khola
smtdate: 2016-10-20
smttime: 1245
termdate: 2016-10-23
othersmts: Attempted Gangapurna West (GANW-163-01)
campsites: BC(4034m),Biv1(16/10,5806m),Biv2(17/10,6000m),Biv3(18/10,6800m),Biv4(19/10,7100m),Smt(20/10)
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal
routememo:
  From https://allezandy.blogspot.com:

  A Korean team of three climbers led by Kim Chang-Ho just opened a new route on the south wall of the Nepalese mountain Gangapurna (7455m), which is located in the central part of the Annapurna's range.

  The team included Kim Chang-Ho, Choi Seok-Moon and Park Jeong-Yong.

  The expedition started on September 12 with a trekking through the Annapurna's valley to the base camp, near the southern wall of the mountain, at 2900m. After the acclimatization period, the team launched its assault, climbing for 6 nights  and 7 days. The route was climbed in lightweight alpine style, without sherpas and oxygen. The descent took another three days. The whole expedition lasted 22 days.


  From AAJ (via Rodolphe Popier):

  Used the same approach as for Gangapurna West, climbing to their first bivouac, then traversing east onto the upper glacier.

  16 Oct: left BC with 8-10 kg sacs, two 7.5mm-60m ropes, six screws, three pickets,
          one two-person tent, a short pad, a gas stove, and food. Slept at 5806m 
          bivouac
  17 Oct: had second bivouac at 6000m afoot of the South Face.
  18 Oct: climbed lower part of the South Face, having a miserable bivouac at 6800m.
  19 Oct: "climbed the rock barrier above direct; nine pitches of mixed terrain with
          thin ice over steep rock. Eventually, a narrow icefall led to a low-angle 
          slope". Bivouac in the middle of this slope at 7100m, without food, but hot
           water.
  20 Oct: reached the top. 
  21-22 Oct: descended in 2 days via the same 1500m wall, using natural gear, snow 
             bollards, and Abalakovs, leaving only two snow pickets on the mountain. 

  Route is called "Korean Way" (1500m/ED+).


expid: GANW16301
peakid: GANW
year: 2016
route1: S Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Chang-Ho
sponsor: Korean-Way Gangapurna & Gangapurna West (Lachenal) Expedition 2016
approach: Modi Khola
smtdate: 2016-10-08
termdate: 2016-10-23
termnote: Abandoned at 7040m due to altitude sickness of one member
othersmts: Summited Gangapurna (GANG-163-01)
campsites: BC(4034m),Biv1(05/10,5806m),Biv2(06-07/10,6200m),xxx(08/10,7040m)
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal
primid: GANG16301
routememo:
  Team first attempted Gangapurna West (Asapurna) and reached to within 100m of the top. Team turned back due to altitude sickness of Park.


  From AAJ (via Rodolphe Popier):

  05 Oct: left BC, up via a glacier, then a SSW facing spur to a 5806m bivouac. 

  06 Oct: steep snow plus some seracs, bivouac at 6200m, below the upper South Face.

  07 Oct: attempt through complicated glacier terrain, back to same 6200m bivouac. 

  08 Oct: left at 1:30 am to climb the steep S Face. Not far below the summit ridge,
          Jung-Yong decided to stop and wait for the return of his team mates. Choi
          Suk-Mun and Kim Chang-Ho climbed three pitches further onto the ridge, 
          but with the top only 100m away and their companion not with them, decided
          instead to go back down. Rappeled the face down to their bivouac that day. 


expid: EVER16301
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: N Face (Norton Couloir)
nation: Spain
leaders: Kilian Jornet
sponsor: Summits Of My Life Everest Expedition 2016
countries: France
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2016-08-19
smtdate: 2016-09-13
termdate: 2016-09-15
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to avalanche risk and agency departure time
campsites: BC(19/08,5200m),ABC(20/08,6000m),Bivs,xxx(13/09,8000m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Kilian Jornet alone reached 8000m on 13 Sept, and on 30 Aug with Jordi Tosas and Seb Montaz reached 7600m on NE Face.

  Good weather on mornings. Snowfall from 12-1 pm every day. Snow up to 1 meter from 7000m. Avalanche risk high.


expid: AMAD16343
peakid: AMAD
year: 2016
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Ted Atkins
sponsor: British Ama Dablam Sky-Diving Expedition 2016
approach: Started in Syangboche, sky-dived at 7000m and landed at Ama BC
bcdate: 2016-11-12
smtdate: 2016-11-16
smttime: 0606
termdate: 2016-11-17
campsites: BC(12/11,4600m),C1,C2,Smt(16/11)
achievment: Parachuted into base camp to start the expedition
agency: Himalayan Ascent
routememo:
  Atkins left high camp at 3:30 am, summited at 6:06 am, stayed 5 minutes, then descended to base camp at 7 pm. Returned to Katmandu on 17 Nov by helicopter.


expid: GIME16301
peakid: GIME
year: 2016
route1: N Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Hansjoerg Auer
sponsor: Austrian Gimmigela Chuli East Expedition 2016
approach: Pangpema->BC
bcdate: 2016-10-26
smtdate: 2016-11-10
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2016-11-14
othersmts: Drohmo SE Ridge (to 6000m) to acclimatize
campsites: BC(26/10,5200m),Biv1(08/11,6000m),Biv2(09/11,6850m),Smt(10/11)
achievment: 1st ascent of the N Face of Gimmigela Chuli East
agency: Dream Himalaya Adventures
routememo:
  Press Release, Dec 2016 by Hansjoerg Auer

  Gimmigela East (7005m) – First Ascent North Face

  The mountain Gimmigela Chuli (7350m) is located in the eastern Himalayas on the border between Nepal and Sikkim. Situated approximately four kilometers from the World's third highest peak, Kangchenjunga (8585m), it's summit was only reached twice by Japanese and British expeditions. Gimmigela Chuli has a subpeak (7005m), known as Gimmigela East or Gimmigela's Sister, with a steep North Face that had never been attempted.

  After a five-day gruelling hike through the jungle alongside the Tamar River and accross the higher plateaus of the Ghunsa Valley, we basecamped a little higher than the classic Pangpema basecamp; one of Nepal's most treasured sites.

  Alex Bluemel and I started to acclimate on the Drohmo south ridge and, after a total of three nights at 5900m, on November 8, we felt ready for Gimmigela East's North Face. Due to a wet Monsoon with high precipitation we found the 1200m high face in perfect conditions. After two bivies, of which the second one on the final summit ridge seriously challenged us due to the small ledge been extremely exposed to the strong winds, we reached the summit at 7:30 am on 10th November. A cold, windy but clear morning allowed us to see far into Sikkim's great mountain range and to the unexplored east face of Kangchenjunga.

  "Yet again, it was one of those expeditions where everything came together. A great project, an even greater friendship and a very efficient first ascent of a 'King Line' on a 7000m peak in one of the most remote places in the Himalayas."

  Fact Box:
  Mountain Range:                Kangchenjunga Area/Himalaya/Nepal
  Mountain:                      Gimmigela East (7005m)
  Altitude of Basecamp:          5200m
  Vertical meters of the N Face: 1200m
  Difficulties:                  85° ice
  First Ascent of the face:      8th-10th of November 2016 in pure alpine style
  Summit time:                   7.30 am
  Climbers:                      Hansjoerg Auer and Alex Bluemel


expid: NGOJ16301
peakid: NGOJ
year: 2016
route1: S side
nation: Canada
leaders: Gabriel Filippi
sponsor: Unclimbed Tenzing and Hillary Peaks Expdition 2016
countries: Nepal
approach: Lukla->Namche->Gokyo->Ngojumba Glacier
bcdate: 2016-08-28
smtdate: 2016-09-30
termdate: 2016-10-02
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to inability to find a route past highpoint
campsites: BC(28/08,5200m),IC(30/09,5900m),xxx
agency: Mountain Tribes Trekking
routememo:
  On Aug 31, expedition leader Filippi injured in a fall and left by helicopter on Sept 1. Saikaly and Pasang Kaji tried again, this time hired another climbing Sherpa (Kusang Sherpa), but failed 3 times to reach ABC at 6050m.

  Gabriel Filippi fell while leading a rock face when climbing an overhang. As he transferred his weight and pull with his left hand, the rock in his hand broke loose from the wall sending him flying in the air. A free fall for approximately 40 meters, body was like a ragged doll smashing the wall 3 times and crashing at the bottom of the rock face.

  Fixed rope:
    From 5700m to 5900m

  Oxygen:
    Taken by at base camp in case of internal injuries from fall (from 3 am until
    helicopter rescue around 10 am on Sept 1)

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Kaji (considered by team as a climbing Sherpa, not a load carrier)
    Kusang


expid: HIML16301
peakid: HIML
year: 2016
route1: W Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Niklaus Stalder
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Himlung Himal Expedition 2016
countries: Austria, Germany
approach: Besisahar->Kote->Phu
bcdate: 2016-09-16
smtdate: 2016-09-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to fatal accident
campsites: BC(16/09,4830m),C1(20/09,5440m),C2(6090m),xxx(27/09,6700m)
accidents: Fatal avalanche killed Mingmar Sherpa
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  Ngima Chhiring and Mingmar (who died in the avalanche) reached this point just befor an avalanche hit. The rest of the team reached 6000m during the expedition.

  Sherpas:
    Ngima Chhiring Lama, Yamphudin, Taplejung, 15/09/1973
    Mingmar, Taksindu, Solu, 20/08/74


expid: HIML16302
peakid: HIML
year: 2016
route1: W Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Hans Jochen Netzer
sponsor: Amical Alpin Himlung Himal Expedition 2016
countries: Austria, Switzerland
approach: Jagat->Koto->Phu->Himlung BC
bcdate: 2016-09-24
smtdate: 2016-10-05
termdate: 2016-10-08
termnote: Abandoned at 6420m due to avalanche danger
campsites: BC(24/09,4750m),C1(29/09,5400m),C2(04/10,6100m),xxx(05/10,6420m)
accidents: Thum fell down the moraine (ca. 4800m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  24/09  4750m
  C1  29/09  5400m
  C2  04/10  6100m
  HPt 05/10  6420m by all members apart from Thomsen, Bauer, Radlsbeck, Thum, Kleine 

  High point team left C2 at 4 am for summit attempt. They reached the North Col at about 6:45 am, but decided to turn back due to too much snow and avalanche danger.

  Radlsbeck reached C2 on 4 Oct; she did not join the summit push due to lack of motivation.

  Thomsen reached C1 on 29 Sept; she abandoned climb due to a slipped disc.

  Bauer and Kleine reached C1 on 29 Sept. Kleine did not want to continue after the avalanche killed a [Kobler]  Sherpa on 27 Sept. Bauer abandoned climb out of solidarity.

  Thum reached C1 on 27 Sept. On his descent he slipped on moraine and fell for about 40m. He was very bruised and left BC the same day with the helicopter, which was looking for the deceased Sherpa (avalanche).

  Oxygen: not taken, not used

  Fixed rope: 800m


expid: HIML16303
peakid: HIML
year: 2016
route1: W Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Alexander Scherl
sponsor: Furtenbach Adventures Himlung Himal Expedition 2016
countries: Austria
approach: Bulbule->Koto->Phu->Himlung BC
bcdate: 2016-09-21
smtdate: 2016-10-01
termdate: 2016-10-04
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to avalanche danger
campsites: BC(21/09,4800m),C1(25/09,5400m),C2(6000m),xxx(01/10,6200m)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  Weather was not stable over the whole time. In the afternoon always clouds around the summit. So to less sun on the West Face to the summit. Danger of avalanche was to great.


expid: HIML16304
peakid: HIML
year: 2016
route1: W Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Franz Hoelzl
sponsor: DAV Summit Club Himlung Himal Expedition 2016
approach: Bus to Chamche->Dharapani->Meta->Phu->Himlung BC
bcdate: 2016-09-30
smtdate: 2016-10-08
termdate: 2016-10-14
termnote: Abandoned at 6050m due to avalanche danger
campsites: BC(30/09,4850m),C1(03/10,5400m),C2(08/10,6050m),xxx
agency: Ramdung Expedition
routememo:
  Weather was variable: cloudy with sunny spells, light snowfall. Conditions were fine: dry until about 5600m, the glacier was covered with snow, but easy to walk on.


expid: HIML16306
peakid: HIML
year: 2016
route1: W Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Paola Favero
sponsor: Italian Himlung Himal Expedition 2016
bcdate: 2016-10-28
smtdate: 2016-11-03
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2016-11-06
campsites: BC(28/10,4800m),C1(30/10,5400m),C2(02/11,6100m),Smt(03/11)
achievment: 1st Italian woman to summit Himlung Himal
agency: Himalaya Hikes (Seven Summit Treks pmt)
routememo:
  Favero and Lakpa left C2 at 2 am on 3 Nov, summited at 10:30 am, stayed 30 minutes, then descended to C2. Good conditions, sunny, very cold (-35), very windy.


expid: HIML16307
peakid: HIML
year: 2016
route1: W Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: David Pujol
sponsor: Spanish Ama Dablam Expedition 2016
approach: Naar-Phu Valley
bcdate: 2016-10-31
smtdate: 2016-11-06
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2016-11-09
campsites: BC(31/10,4900m),C1(02/11,5400m),C2(05/11,6100m),Smt(06/11)
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  Team left C2 at 2:15 am on 6 Nov, summited at 12 pm, stayed 15 minuutes, then descended to C2. Cold, windy, clear sky.

  We were rescued by helicopter from BC to Ktm due the frostbite of left foot of Fernando Aretio.


expid: HIML16308
peakid: HIML
year: 2016
route1: W Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Thomas Schmidt
sponsor: Annapurna Around-Chulu East-Himlung Himal Expedition 2016
countries: Poland
bcdate: 2016-10-13
smtdate: 2016-10-16
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2016-10-17
campsites: BC(13/10,4900m),C1(14/10),C2(14/10,5850m),Smt(16/10)
agency: Himalayan Nepal Trek
routememo:
  Thomas Schmidt - 12 Dec 2016

  13/10. We arrived at base camp (north side of glacier). Robin, Indra and 1 porter made depot at Camp 1. I got medicine against diarrhea from German group.

  14/10. Guenter was weak and decided to stay at BC. I was better and went with Robin, Gregor and porters up Camp 1. We placed 1 tent for Guenter there and continued without porters up to Camp 2, exactly a little bit behind (at 5900m) - a nice place with view to summit (see photo in Facebook). 

  15/10. We started after sunrise (about 10 o'clock) and arrived Camp 3 [site] about 11:30 (at 6100m). We saw the whole way to summit, which is a little bit down and then up to the ridge. Robin and Gregor decided not to continue because way seemed to be too long. Both of them waited for me, while I continued up the ridge (turning point was 6400m). I had to turn because I had wrong gloves (too small ones) with me and it became windy - too cold at my hands. We returned to our tent at Camp 2.

  16.10. I started 4:30 am and climbed up to 9 o'clock until sunrise (sun rises directly behind summit). 9 o'clock I talked via walkie-talkie with Robin, who went down BC together with Gregor after breakfast. 12 o'clock I reached summit - suddenly saw Mt. Manaslu at the highest point. Again I talked via walkie-talkie with Robin and Robin talked with our staff. I spend nearly 1.5 hours on top, because this day was without wind - perfect weather. From 1:30 to 4:30 pm I climbed direct route down - needed only 3 hours because of the very good snow conditions. 5 o'clock I talked via walkie-talkie with BC, later I sent a message via satellite telephone.

  17.10. I packed tent inside backback (see photo in Facebook) and climbed down to Camp 1. There I met Indra with 2 porters. Together we went down BC. At least I had a bath in the lake at 5350m; Robin and Gregor had also bath there 1 day before. After lunch at BC we continued down and arrived Phu in the afternoon.


expid: HIML16310
peakid: HIML
year: 2016
route1: W Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Ferran Navarro
sponsor: Catalan Himlung Himal Expedition 2016
approach: Dharapani->Koto->Dharamsala->Phu->BC
bcdate: 2016-09-24
smtdate: 2016-10-04
termdate: 2016-10-08
termnote: Abandoned at 6050m due to avalanche danger
othersmts: Summited unnamed 6420m subpeak NW of Himlung
campsites: BC(24/09,4820m),C1(28/09,5400m),C2(04/10,6050m),xxx
agency: Iceland Trekking permit (Peak Adventures?)
routememo:
  Team abandoned climb at C2 due to avalanche danger. Instead they climbed another nearby subpeak of 6420m northwest of Himlung.


expid: HIML16311
peakid: HIML
year: 2016
route1: W Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Paul Noble
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Himlung Himal Expedition 2016
countries: Spain
bcdate: 2016-10-24
smtdate: 2016-11-04
termdate: 2016-11-07
campsites: BC(24/10),C1(),C2(),Smt(04/11)
agency: Makalu Adventure
routememo:
  Updates and Leader: Paul Noble

  9th November
  Congratulations again to Paul, Sam, Irene, Jorge, Lakpa, Dawa and Phurba who reached the summit of Himlung Himal. The full team are now trekking out and are at Koto.

  5th November
  Summit Success! Paul has phoned in to say that they have reached the summit of Himlung Himal. Shamin and Nigel turned back as it was an extremely cold night.

  1st November
  Paul has been in touch to let us know that the group have completed their acclimatisation programme and are looking at the moment for a likely summit on Saturday.

  24th October
  Paul has phoned in to say that the group are now at Base Camp and have thoroughly enjoyed their stunning trek in. Today they have had the puja which is the blessing for the team, sherpas and all their kit and tomorrow they will head for camp 1.

  20th October
  No landslides were present this year so the team were able to drive as far as Koto. All the equipment was re-packed and checked ready for the start of their 4 day trek to base camp, through the Gates of Phu (pronounced Pooh!), taking the group through some amazing mountainous scenery, which is very different to the other trekking areas in Nepal.


expid: LUNR16301
peakid: LUNR
year: 2016
route1: NW Face (to 5700m)
route2: W Face-NW Ridge (to 6600m)
nation: Austria
leaders: David Lama
sponsor: Austrian-American Lunag Ri Expedition 2016
countries: USA
bcdate: 2016-11-05
smtdate: 2016-11-20
termdate: 2016-11-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to lost of partner and exhaustion
campsites: BC(05/11,5100m),ABC(10/11,5400m),C1(19/11,6200m),C2(20/11,6600m),xxx
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  - Good conditions and good weather on mountain.
  - Acclimatization on Fox Peak (5777m) above BC.
  - Thrombose close to the heart by my climbing partner Conrad Anker at about 5700m while climbing to C1 on the route we tried last year. Immediately rappeled and helicopter took him to hospital in KTM.
  - Solo attempt by me three days later: Climbed obvious snow ramp on the W Face to just below the NW Ridge on day 1. Continued along the W Ridge on day 2 to new high point about 250-300m below the summit. Bivied there one night and rappeled back to ABC the next day, because lost too much energy on the first two days of climbing to make it to the summit and back safe.


expid: RIPI16301
peakid: RIPI
year: 2016
route1: W Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Nima Tenji Sherpa
sponsor: First Ascent on Khang Karpo 6646m (Women's Team Exp 2016)
ascent1: 4th
countries: USA, UK
approach: Rolwaling Valley (Beding->Na)
bcdate: 2016-11-08
smtdate: 2016-11-10
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2016-11-11
campsites: BC(08/11,5150m),C1(09/11,5700),Smt(10/11)
agency: Dreamers Destination Treks
routememo:
  Summited reached on 10 Nov by Alison Levine, Samantha Falconer, Kath Staniland, Phurba Tenzing, Tshering Pemba and Nima Tenji.

  Team left C1 at 3:45 am, summited at 2 pm, stayed 1 hour, then descended to C1 arriving about 7:30 pm. We ascended the North [West?] Ridge and encountered numerous hanging glaciers. There were a great deal of crevasses throughout the route.

  There were two other people Gopal Shrestha and Lhakpa Norbu/Nuru who also climbed with Dreamer's Destinations, but they were a separate entity from us.


expid: LDNG16301
peakid: LDNG
year: 2016
route1: S Face-SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Brian Jackson
sponsor: Unclimbed Peak Expedition Langdung 2016
approach: Drive to Chhetchet->Beding->Na->Dudh Pokhari
bcdate: 2016-11-14
termdate: 2016-11-21
othersmts: Climbed nearby 5965m peak (which they called Karbu Ri)
campsites: BC(14/11,5114m),ABC(16/11,5345m),xxx
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  Initial plan was to climb subsidiary approx 6000m peak (which they named Karbu Ri) to acclimatize, then attempt Langdung at 6326m (both previously unclimbed).

  The team summited Karbu Ri, but did not attempt Langdung.

  Karbu Ri is located between Langdung and Ripimo Shar on the Tibetan border and is given an altitude of 5965m on the Schneider Rolwaling map.

  Account for Karbu Ri:

  Karbu Ri Summiters:
    Brian James Jackson 
    Thomas Carrick
    Ben Brittain-Dodd 
    Kieran Toner
    Simon Wooller 
    Thomas Furey
    Phillip Absolon 
    Catherine Husted 
    Heather Bentley 
    Catherine Cameron 
    Mulal Gurung 
    Mingma Dorje Sherpa 
    Dawa Rita Sherpa 
    Mindu Sherpa

  Team summmited on 18 Nov at 5:55 am after setting out from ABC at 2:10 am. Spent 1 hour on summit, then descended to ABC arriving about 3:20 pm. 600m of fixed line was used to protect the crevassed area of the glacier. Weather was great with temperature at about -18. No wind of any note. Large crevasse on the summit to cross over for final 15m.

  Other members did not climb due to altitude or other illnesses. 

  Gary Sloan got HACE very suddenly with no other symptoms at Base Camp and helicoptered out. Gwyn Griffiths developed HAPE at high camp (ABC) after time with cough and diarrhoea and dehydration and helicoptered out.


expid: LDNG16302
peakid: LDNG
year: 2016
route1: S Face
nation: USA
leaders: Hari Mix
sponsor: Ascent Himalayas Omitso Go & Langdung Expedition 2016
approach: Drive to Chhetchet->Simigaon->Beding->Na->Ripimo Shar Glacier
bcdate: 2016-10-28
smtdate: 2016-11-01
termdate: 2016-11-02
campsites: BC(28/10,5000m),C1(31/10,5500m),xxx(01/11,6360m)
agency: Ascent Himalayas
termnote:
  Abandoned at 6360m due to cornice and unconsolidated/unprotectable snow conditions below the true summit

routememo:
  The weather was absolutely perfect for the entire expedition. We noted that most South Faces were in great condition with very few collapses and avalanches. We found a way to the upper mountain involving some scrambling and short steps of steeper rock climbing just to the right of a prominent icefall at the head of the Ripimo Shar Glacier. After climbing a narrowing couloir, this led to an easy and flat, yet crevassed, glacier in a hanging valley. We made our high camp at the far end of this glacier. Summit day began with a short climb up talus and a broad snow couloir to the upper valley...a flat and easy glacier leading to the bottom of the south face. The face began with easy snow climbing in good condition, but it became a relentless and ever steepening climb on ice and neve with little opportunity for rest or hydration. The hardest portions of the face were just below the summit, where the grade steepened to over 75 degrees. The final climb onto the cornice occupying the shoulder beneath and just to climber's right of the true summit was quite airy and unprotected as unconsolidated sugar snow was the only thing occupying the crevasses leading straight down to Tibet. After contemplating our options and taking some summit photos, we backed up our last snow anchors and began 10-12 rappels back down to the base of the face.

  Team had permits for unclimbed Langdung (6357m) and Omitso Go (6381m); climbed only on Langdung.

  28 Oct: base camp at 5000m on Rolwaling glacier.
  29 Oct: reconnaissance up to 5500m, via a small rock face (low 5th class granite)
           and broken glacier.
  31 Oct: Camp 1 at 5500m.
  01 Nov: South Face climb (600m, 5.3, AI3, 75°), stopped 25m below the top due to
          dangerous snow conditions on the final ridge. Down the face in 12 abseils
          and a short downclimb to camp 1. Reached base camp that same day.
  02 Nov: back to Na carrying heavy loads.


expid: PAWR15101
peakid: PAWR
year: 2015
route1: E Ridge from S
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
sponsor: Paulo Manaslu Expedition 2015
ascent1: 1st
bcdate: 2015-05-06
smtdate: 2015-05-09
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2015-05-09
othersmts: Summited Manaslu (MANA-151-03)
campsites: BC(06/05,5160m),C1(07/05,5800m),Smt(08/05)
agency: Yeti Adventure
primid: MANA15103
routememo:
  Paulo Grobel (on Chaar Batsa Himal):

  [After leaving Manaslu] we then trekked to Larkya Pass. Just to the north of the pass, southeast of Panbari, is a group of mountains including unclimbed Chaar Batsa Himal [Pawar Central] (6621m). Frank Bonhomme, Christian Hurgon, Dhane Magar, Deepen Bhote, Jangbu Sherpa, Rajan Lama and I headed up this peak from the pass with two tents and the minimum of equipment. Thanks to good acclimatization, weather, and snow conditions, we made rapid progress, and by midday had reached 5800m and a suitable campsite. The following morning, May 9, we left at 4 am, making quick progress up fine snow slopes until the sun softened the snow. The summit ridge had no nasty cornices, and we were on top at 11 am. Our ascent route, via a hanging glacier to the south, up onto the East Ridge, and so to the summit, was III/PD+.


expid: PAWR16301
peakid: PAWR
year: 2016
route1: E Ridge from S
nation: Norway
leaders: Salvor Smakasin
sponsor: Medical Aid Mountaineering Jarkya Peak Climbing Expedition 2016
ascent1: 2nd
approach: Drive to Arughat->Jagat->Samagaon->Samdo->BC->Dharamsala
bcdate: 2016-10-31
smtdate: 2016-11-07
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2016-11-14
campsites: BC(31/10,4978m),HC(06/11,6000m),Smt(07/11)
agency: Top Himalaya Guides
routememo:
  BC  on 31 Oct at 4978m east side of Larkya Pass
  HC  on 06 Nov at 6000m
  Smt on 07 Nov by Aamot, Caspersen and Felde.

  Details of climb: Aamot, Caspersen, Felde and Mowinckel started from High Camp at 6:30 am. Mowinckel turned around from above 200m of High Camp due to tiredness. Aamot, Caspersen and Felde got to the summit at 1 pm and stayed on summit for 20 minutes. They got back to High Camp at 3:30 pm then continued to BC where they arrived at 7:15 pm.

  Approach route to  summit: along the glacier from 6000m steep up to 70?° then to east summit ridge about 400m and same way down. Aamot skied down from the summit, which he calls an extreme ski slope.

  The same three members summited Larkya Peak (6249m) on 11 Nov and skied down. Rest of members stopped below 100m of summit.

  On 13 Nov, the team also attempted on South Summit of Pawar Himal (6507m) through glacier to South Face, but had to give up from 6350m due to lack of time.

  Note: The Ministry issued the permit for Jarkya Himal.


expid: KCHS16301
peakid: KCHS
year: 2016
route1: Kangchung La-NW Ridge from S
nation: UK
leaders: Ben O'Connor Croft
sponsor: British Khangchung/UIAA Peak Expedition 2016
ascent1: 3rd
countries: Ecuador
smtdate: 2016-11-06
smttime: 1130
campsites: BC(5200m),Smt(06/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  First [Official] Ascent of Khangchung Shar (UIAA) 6063m, Mahalangur Himal, Nepal

  On November 6th at 11:30 am KTM time the team of Ben O'Connor Croft (UK), Joshua Jarrin (Ecuador), Masha Gordon (UK), Ang Phurba (Nepal) and Pasang Bhote (Nepal) made a first ascent of Khangchung Shar (6063m). The peak was on the list 104 new summits approved for climbing by the government of Nepal in 2014.

  The route named "Laughing Gargoyle" - because of the large hanging ominous block on the summit - (550m, TD, III/IV) was approached from the Khangchung La pass that lies between the Khangchung and Cholo peaks. The team left base camp at 5200m at 1am and reached the summit at 11:30 am.

  From the col the team followed the 40 degree snow slope towards a ramp. They headed left up steeper snow and ice, passing small rock steps heading towards the ridge. Arriving at shoulder of the ridge with a piton underneath a block to belay, they then climbed up the ridge until steepness pushed them back onto the face past a rock ramp choked with sugar snow with protection out left. Joining the dots between snow slopes to find rock protection in sometimes very chossey bands was the order of the day. Heading right along the ledge and avoiding a loose chimney above the belay, the team arrived to an airy traverse before turning onto a snow slope between the two summits.

  Not too technical a climb, but with enough exposed sections and some careful rock "management" to make it a serious climb none the less.

  Ben O'Connor Croft is an aspirant guide, Joshua Jarrin is an UIAGM guide and Masha Gordon is a founder of GRIT&ROCK.
   
  This expedition was organised by Himalayan Guides Nepal Treks and Expedition Pvt. Ltd.
   
  Iswari Paudel
  Himalayan Guides Nepal


expid: KIMS16301
peakid: KIMS
year: 2016
route1: SSE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Giampaolo Corona
sponsor: Italian Langtang Lirung Expedition 2016
bcdate: 2016-10-06
smtdate: 2016-10-21
termdate: 2016-10-31
termnote: Abandoned at 6850m due to high winds
campsites: BC(06/10,4300m),C1(14/11,5300m),xxx(21/10,6850m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Arrived in Kathmandu separately on 30 Sept and 1 Oct. 
  All left Kathmandu by bus on 3 Oct for Syabrubesi. 

  On 11 Oct established C11 without sleeping in it. 

  2 proper attempts on the SW Face from C1 at 5300m:

  On 15 Oct had a short insight in the route up to 5800m (600m of climbing). 

  First attempt included all 3 members. On 21 Oct, started from C1, having a 20h climbing which led them to 6580m where they were stopped by strong winds (70km/h). Had hard ice pitches (12) up to WI4,5/TD+. 

  Second attempt on 30-31 Oct included Corona and Cazanelli only because Favre had left base camp on 25 Oct (engaged with a trekking group from Italy as alpine guide). Stonefall hurt Cazanelli's right arm (big deep cut) at 5h30 at approximately 6000m, so they had to turn back down rappelling, reaching C1 quite fast. Cazanelli was heli-rescued from that same camp at 9 am on 31 Oct, staying 1 week until 7 Nov in Kathmandu Norvic hospital.  

  Corona wishes to come back and try again next year.


  Kimshung: Southwest Face Attempt (American Alpine Club)
  by Giampaolo Corona and Rodolphe Popier

  Standing to the east of Langtang Lirung, Kimshung (6781m) has no recorded ascent. On October 6, François Cazzanelli, Giampaolo Corona, and Emrik Favre arrived at Langtang Lirung base camp (4300m), on the west back of the glacier of the same name. On the 11th they placed a camp high on the right side of the glacier, at 5300m, below the southwest face of Kimshung, but did not sleep there. They returned on the 14th, spent the night, and on the 15th made a reconnaissance of their proposed line up the large couloir right of the summit fall line. They climbed the couloir for 600m before descending.

  The three men made their first serious attempt on October 21. Leaving camp early, they climbed for 15 hours to reach an altitude of 6580m, a little short of the SSE Ridge, where they were stopped by winds in excess of 70 km/hour. To that point they had belayed 12 hard ice pitches at an overall grade of TD+ (AI4/5).

  Favre, a guide, had commitments to accompany a trekking group and left on the 25th, but the remaining two returned to their high camp on October 30 and prepared for a second attempt. At 5:30 am on the 31st, at a height of 6000m, a stone hit Cazzanelli on the right arm, producing a large, deep cut. Corona helped his partner descend by rappel, and the two reached camp quite fast. At 9 am a helicopter rescued Cazzanelli and took him to hospital, where he stayed for the next seven days. He flew home on November 7, with Corona following a day later.


expid: LNJU16301
peakid: LNJU
year: 2016
route1: NE side
nation: USA
leaders: Lonnie Dupre
sponsor: Vertical Nepal Langju Expedition 2016
countries: Canada, Spain
approach: Bhimtang->Larkya La->Namrung->Mu Gompa->BC
bcdate: 2016-10-26
smtdate: 2016-10-29
termdate: 2016-10-31
termnote: Abandoned at 5700m due technical rock difficulties and dangerous wind-slabs
othersmts: Attempted Larkya Peak (6249m) by Dupre
campsites: BC(26/10,4700m),C1(29/10,5550m),xxx(5700m)
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
routememo:
  From Lonnie Dupre's blog:

  Oct 07: Team drove from Kathmandu to Besishahar, then trekked to Syange.

  Oct 09-15: Trekked to Bimthang

  Oct 16: Dupre attempted Larke Peak (6249m), climbed to 5500m and turned around due
          to altitude sickness. Rest of team went to Namrung.

  Oct 17-23: Team trekked to Mu Gompa in Tsum Valley.

  Oct 26: Team moved to BC of Langju (4700m).

  Oct 29: Team move up to C1 (5550m) and climbed to 5700m before deciding that the 
          route was too dangerous due to avalanching and dangerous winds-labs.


expid: MAK216301
peakid: MAK2
year: 2016
route1: W Face-S Ridge via Makalu La
nation: France
leaders: Michael Beigbeder
sponsor: Club Alpin Makalu II 2016 Expedition
approach: Tumlingtar->Makalu BC
bcdate: 2016-09-13
smtdate: 2016-09-20
termdate: 2016-09-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to bad conditions (deep snow and crevassed glacier)
campsites: BC(13/09,4900m),ABC(15/09,5400m),C1(20/09,5900m),xxx(20,24/09,6400m)
agency: Nepalaya Odyssey Treks
routememo:
  06 Sept: KTM to Tumlingtar by flight.
  13 Sept: at old Makalu BC (4900m).
  15 Sept: at ABC (5400m) except for Dulac (who had AMS).
  17 Sept: up to C1 then down to BC for Philippe, Michaud, Beigbeder, and Favre-Felix
           guided by Sherpas 
  19 Sept: Dulac was rescued from 4900m BC by helicopter due to AMS.
  20 Sept: first sleep at C1 for all members. Next day to ABC for 2 days rest.
           Meanwhile Sherpas wouldn't go further than C2 site in hip-deep snow 
           conditions.  
  23 Sept: all members slept at C1, aiming to go further up on the next day. 
  24 Sept: fog appeared, allowing an 80m visibility. Philippe went to 6130m and down
           to ABC. Beigbeder and Favre-Felix went to C2 then down to ABC. Verdannet
           and Michaud went already down in BC. Decision to abandon on that day due
           to dangerous avalanching snow conditions covering crevassed glacier. 


expid: AMAD16344
peakid: AMAD
year: 2016
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Jens Nonnwitz
sponsor: German Ama Dablam Expedition 2016
approach: Lukla->Phortse->Lobuche Peak->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2016-10-14
smtdate: 2016-10-30
termdate: 2016-11-01
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche on 24 Oct (by Nonnewitz, Renger and Pemba Sherpa)
campsites: BC(14/10,4600m),ABC(16/10,5570m),Smt(30/10)
agency: Himalayan Ascent
routememo:
  First went to Ama Dablam BC and up to ABC. Then went to Lobuche and summit on 24 Oct, then returned to Ama Dablam.

  Ascent from Base Camp to ABC no problem. Weather was perfect. Members did not try to summit after having a bad night at ABC on 28 Oct. Only Pemba continued on to he summit on 30 Oct.


expid: PUMO16301
peakid: PUMO
year: 2016
route1: SW Face
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Paul Bonhomme
sponsor: Pumori SW Face 2016
countries: France, USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Dingboche->BC
bcdate: 2016-11-09
smtdate: 2016-11-18
termdate: 2016-11-23
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(09/11,5400m),C1(12/11,5800m),xxx(18/11,6700m)
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  BC  09/11  5400m 
  C1  12/11  5800m
  Hpt 18/11  6700m  (100 below the exit to the SW Ridge by Paul Bonhomme.

  Trio had 1 acclimatization day at Namche Bazar on 5 Nov.

  Base camp established on 9 Nov at the most western of the two lakes located at 5400m, those lying just west of Kalapattar. 

  On the 12 Nov, the trio established its C1 at 5800m at the footstep of Pumori West/Kangri Shar (peak 6792m on Finn Map) SSE Ridge.

  On the 13 Nov, trio spotted the access to the footstep of the W Face through the complex 6000m plateau marked on the map. That same day everyone went back to the base camp for 3 consecutive days of rest. 

  On 17 Nov, all were back at C1 for a summit push the day after.  

  On 18 Nov: departure at 5:30 am (sunrise at 6 am). Trio went up together to the rimaye (about 6000/6100m) in 2 hours. Then Paul went alone in front up to 6700m, using a long right-hand traverse in the middle of the face to stop a hundred meters below the connection to SW Ridge. In 2011, Paul and his teammates couldn't even reach the face, which was mainly in ice conditions and that they guessed to be 40° steep. Now climbing the face Paul faced hard snow (poor grip for skis) with one 20m ice section at 6500m; it was a sustained average 45° steep face with some 50° sections. Were also numerous ice flutes to negotiate, their 50° NW Face being in inconsistent snow, their 40/45° SE Face being in hard snow. After reaching his high point at 10:30 am, Paul begun to downclimb without skiing. Just shortly tried it at about 6400m to test a better grip in the inconsistent snow part of an ice flute section, but it failed to be more secure, so he then continued with crampons, downclimbing. Was back to high camp at 2 pm.

  Took him almost same time to go up than to go down!
   5h30 =>  7h30 (5800/6050) : 125m/h
   7h30 => 10h30 (6050/6700) : 216m/h
   5h30 => 10h30 (5800/6700) : 180m/h
  10h30 => 14h   (6700/5800) : 257m/h

  Ben and Erin stopped at about 6100/6200m. Ben had had a very bad sleep, but started anyway. Immediately considering poor snow conditions for skiing, both quickly decided it was too risky for a ski attempt and weren't motivated to go up just for the climb. They went down to the C1 and watched Paul during 3 hours.

  All went back straight to the base camp on that day. The day after Paul went back to clean the high camp.

  Paul won't try again to ski that face, as he believes their strategy and conditions couldn't be much better than this time. "For that face, you need to be very lucky with the snow conditions and also be super fit". He notes the traverse in solo without skis on the rucksack is quite easily feasible trough that route. Now he will try for less steep ski projects, as he often met so far with same kind of hard snow on steep faces which is too delicate for skiing.


expid: MANA16301
peakid: MANA
year: 2016
route1: NE Face
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Manaslu Expedition 2016
countries: Argentina, China, Japan, UK, USA
approach: Samogaon by helicopter
bcdate: 2016-09-02
smtdate: 2016-10-01
smttime: 0725
termdate: 2016-10-04
termnote: Stopped at fore-summit (8125m) due to end of fixed-rope
agency: Mountain Experience
campsites:
  BC(02/09,4847m),C1(10/09,5604m),C2(17/09,6336m),C3(26/09,6916m),C4(30/09,7439m),ForeSmt(01/10,8125m)

routememo:
  BC    02/09  4847m
  C1    10/09  5604m
  C2    17/09  6336m
  C3    29/09  6916m
  C4    30/09  7439m
  F-Smt 01/10  by Sarjanovich and Phura Namgyal 07:26 am, Tamura at 07:52 am, 
               Yu and Urken at 07:26 am, Ngawang Tenzing 07:25 am, 
               Takeda and Ngima 08;24 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 4:30 am. Everyone left summit by 08:44 am and descended to C4, where they arrived at 10 am. Continued to BC (apart from Tamura and Takeda, who stayed at C2) where they arrived at 5:30 pm.

  Clements and Metclafe reached C3 on 29 Sept. As Clements from suffering from HAPE Metclafe descended to BC with him the following day.

  Brice stayed at BC as the BC manager.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members, 
          C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas


expid: MANA16302
peakid: MANA
year: 2016
route1: NE Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Frank Braun
sponsor: Amical Alpin Manaslu Expedition 2016
approach: Samagaon by helicopter
bcdate: 2016-09-21
smtdate: 2016-10-07
termdate: 2016-10-10
termnote: Abandoned at 6850m due to high winds
campsites: BC(21/09,4750m),C1(27/09,5600m),C2(02/10,6300m),xxx(07/10,6850m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  21/09  4750m
  C1  27/09  5600m
  C2  02/10  6300m
  C3         6850m
  HPt 07/10  6850m by all members.

  Climb abandoned due to high winds. They were intending to summit on 8 Oct, however, the wind forced them back. They descended to C2, where they spent the night. On 8 Oct they descended to BC.


expid: MANA16303
peakid: MANA
year: 2016
route1: NE Face
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Arnold Coster
sponsor: Arnold Coster Expeditions Manaslu 2016
countries: Denmark, Nepal
approach: Larkya La
bcdate: 2016-09-12
smtdate: 2016-09-30
smttime: 0615
termdate: 2016-10-02
termnote: Stopped at fore-summit (8125m) due to end of fixed-rope
campsites: BC(30/09,4750m),C1(17/09,5700m),C2(21/09,6300m),C3(28/09,6800m),ForeSmt(30/09,8125m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC    12/09  4750m
  C1    17/09  5700m
  C2    21/09  6300m
  C2    28/09  6800m
  F-Smt 30/09  by Coster, Maya, Tashi, Mingma Nurbu (6:15 am), Starreveld and 
               Pasang Gyaljen (7:15 am), Kragh (10 am).

  Summit team and Jaarsveld left C3 at 7 pm. Jaarsveld turned back at 7200m at 8:30 pm as he was too slow and did not do very well. He descended to C3. Rest of the team continued to the summit. Afterwards they descended to BC (apart from Kragh), where they arrived at about 10 pm.

  Kragh did not use oxygen or any Sherpa support. He descended to C3 after the summit and descended to BC on  1 Oct.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Sherpas and members apart from
          from Kragh. He did NOT use oxygen.


expid: MANA16304
peakid: MANA
year: 2016
route1: NE Face
nation: China
leaders: Song Yu-Jiang
sponsor: Ding-Feng Chinese Manaslu Expedition 2016
smtdate: 2016-09-30
smttime: 0620
termnote: Stopped at fore-summit (8125m) due to end of fixed-rope
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,ForeSmt(30/09)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Translated from www.sports.sohu.com:

  30 Sept:

  6:20 this morning (local time in Nepal), Dingfeng Manaslu Expedition 2016 climbers players Yan Huadong first successful ascent! The climb a total of 24 players reached the summit!

  Up to now, the former members of the team after the summit has descended to camp near C1. After the members of the team after the summit has also descend to C4 camp.

   6:20 Now summit has Yan Huadong, Han Xiao, Tan Qimei, Ma Jingxin, Wu Kai.
        Shi Zhenyu summit!
        Jiang Hua summit!
   7:15 Dingfeng expedition Manaslu expedition 11 people climb to the top!
   8:03 Dingfeng Manaslu expedition climbers summited more than 20 people!
   8:30 the first summit team Yan Huadong smooth return to the C4 camp. 
        Meanwhile, two players at an altitude of 8000m descent began hoisting 
        decided to give up. Safety first, they have reached a new level of life. 
        Salute them!
   9:25 this time climbing the youngest players Chen Wenqiang anaerobic summit 
        Manaslu!
  11:00 Pan Zhengsheng summit!


expid: MANA16305
peakid: MANA
year: 2016
route1: NE Face
nation: Russia
leaders: Dmitri Sinev
sponsor: Russian Manaslu Expedition 2016
approach: Samagaon by helicopter
bcdate: 2016-09-11
smtdate: 2016-09-30
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2016-10-02
termnote: Stopped at fore-summit (8125m) due to end of fixed-rope
agency: Seven Summit Treks
campsites:
  BC(11/09,4860m),C1(13/09,5700m),C2(14/09,6300m),C3(21/09,6900m),C4(29/09,7400m),ForeSmt(30/09,8125m)

routememo:
  Summit team left C4 at 2:15 am, summited at 8:30 am, stayed 30 minutes, then descended to C4 between 11 am-12 pm, rested, then down to C3 between 4-5 pm. Perfect weather.


expid: MANA16308
peakid: MANA
year: 2016
route1: NE Face
nation: China
leaders: Zhang Wei
sponsor: Chinese 14 Peaks Manaslu Expedition 2016
bcdate: 2016-09-13
smtdate: 2016-09-30
smttime: 0727
termdate: 2016-10-01
termnote: Stopped at fore-summit (8125m) due to end of fixed-rope
agency: Seven Summit Treks
campsites:
  BC(13/09,4850m),C1(17/09,5627m),C2(27/09,6279m),C3(28/09,6850m),C4(29/09,7410m),ForeSmt(30/09,8125m)

routememo:
  Summit team left C4 between 12:30-1:30 am, summited at 7:27 am, stayed 30 minutes, then descended to base camp by 8 pm. At first weather was not good, but it was very good at the top of the day. Some sections of the line needed fixed rope; paid attention to keep warm.


expid: MANA16309
peakid: MANA
year: 2016
route1: NE Face
nation: India
leaders: Dipankar Ghosh
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Manaslu Expedition 2016
countries: Germany, Italy, Japan, Poland, Russia, Turkey
approach: Helicopter to Samagaon
bcdate: 2016-09-11
smtdate: 2016-09-30
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2016-10-02
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,ForeSmt(30/09),Smt(30/09)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Seven Summit Treks Manaslu expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Seven Summits provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Peter Guggemos (Germany)

  Camps: Smt(30/09)
  Term:  Success (6:30 am)

  Did not use oxygen.
  From Cho Oyu Trekkng on Seven Summit Treks permit.


  Antonio Magliacano (Italy)

  Camps: BC(13/09,4900m),C1(5800m),C2(28/09,6600m),C3(30/09,7000m),xxx
  Left:  02/10/2016
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Bad Weather

  Bad weather, snow, snow, snow! I was too tired and I needed another day to rest, but it was the last day to try the summit (bad weather).

  Hired: Gyaljen Sherpa

  Did not use oxygen.
  From Cho Oyu Trekkng on Seven Summit Treks permit.


  Dipankar Ghosh (India)

  Camps: BC(11/09,4700m),C1(17/09,5700m),C2(18/09,6400m),C3(28/09,6800m),
         C4(29/09,7350m),Smt(30/09)
  Left:  01/10/2016
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success (6:55 am)

  Ghosh and Sanu started their summit push at 01:30 am on 30 Sept and reached summit at 06:55 am. They stayed on summit 30 minutes and descended BC same day where they arrived at 07:10 pm.

  Sherpa: Sanu Sherpa, Walung. Before this summit he also made summit on Manaslu on 9 May 2011 with Mi-Gon Kim of S Korea.

  Finally was it true summit or fore-summit where most of climbers stopped in last season? 

  Answer: Me with Sanu Sherpa made summit at the very place where Mi-Gon Kim of S Korea with Sanu Sherpa and Indian Army team members made summit on 9 May, 2011. We had gone beyond the point where most of the climbers had made their summit this year. According to Sanu Sherpa that was the original summit point where we made summit.

  Oxygen: Ghost from C3-Smt-C3; Sherpa from C4-Smt-C4
   
  Dipankar Ghosh reached today at Samagaon after his successful summit on Manaslu.
  Short expedition note:
  He left Base camp for summit push on 26 Sept 
  On 26th reached C1
  On 27th reached C2
  On 28th reached C3
  On 29th reached C4 and left 01:30 am for summit
  On 30th reached summit at 6:55 am with Sanu Sherpa
  Returned back to BC on 30 Sept at 19:50.


  Aleksei Lonchinskiy (Russia)

  Naoko Watanabe (Japan)

  Waldemar Kowalewski (Poland)

  Muharrem Aydin Irmak (Turkey)

    Stopped at C2 due to overcrowding.


expid: MANA16310
peakid: MANA
year: 2016
route1: NE Face
nation: Russia
leaders: Oxana Morneva
sponsor: Makalu Extreme International Manaslu Expedition 2016
countries: Kyrgyz Republic, Latvia, Lithuania, Ukraine
approach: Larkya La
bcdate: 2016-09-17
smtdate: 2016-09-30
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2016-10-02
termnote: Stopped at fore-summit (8125m) due to end of fixed-rope
agency: Makalu Extreme Treks
campsites:
  BC(17/09,4750m),C1(17/09,5700m),C2(20/09,6200m),C3(28/09,6800m),C4(29/09,7400m),ForeSmt(30/09,10/01)

routememo:
  BC    17/09  4750m 
  C1    17/09  5700m
  C2    20/09  6200m
  C3    28/09  6800m
  C4    29/09  7400m
  F-Smt 30/09  by Chatur Tamang, Shabalov, Pasang Sherpa at 7 am, Vergeles (no O2)
               at 8 am, Zenina, Damaulevicius, Zdanovich, Terentyeva at 10 am
  F-Smt: 01/10 by Morneva (11:30 am), Lhakpa Nuru (11:30 am), Bukinich.

  Tamang summited from C3. He left C3 at 7:30 pm on 29 Sept. He joined Pasang and Shabalov at C4 at about 11 pm and the three of them went to the summit together. They spent about one hour on the summit and descended to BC the same day. They arrived there at about 6 pm. 

  The rest of the 30 Sept summit team left C4 at 2 am. They spent about 30 minutes on the summit and descended to C3, where they arrived at 8 pm.

  1 Oct summit team left C4 at 2 am. Straightforward climb. Spent about 30 minutes on the summit and descended to C3.

  Koval reached 7800m on 30 Sept. She was climbing without oxygen; her hands were too cold and she turned back.

  Vladimir Kovanovskii reached C3 on 28 Sept (used oxygen from C2), but he was too slow and descended to BC.

  Dimitri Grekov and Zamir Kudashov reached C2. They abandoned the expedition for personal reasons.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Tamang, from C4 to top to C4 by
     other members and Sherpas; Morneva from C1 to top C1

  No oxygen: Terentyeva, Damaulevicius, Vergeles, Zenina


expid: MANA16311
peakid: MANA
year: 2016
route1: NE Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Hans Goger
sponsor: Austrian Manaslu Expedition
countries: Germany
approach: Besisahar->Chame->Larkya La->BC
bcdate: 2016-09-07
smtdate: 2016-10-01
termdate: 2016-10-04
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(07/09,4850m),C1(10/09,5800m),C2(16/09,6400m),Depot(18/09,6800m),xxx(01/10,7100m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Acclimatization went very well. After that we were stuck in BC for way too long, lots of us started getting ill in this waiting period.

  When the weather changed and we went for summit push some of us had to turn because of health issues and some had to turn because of weather conditions (strong winds).

  Some members of the team wanted to go for summit push already earlier, but it wasn't possible for them because of the catastrophic rope-fixing job that was done on the mountain. The company that was responsible for the fixing this year did a really poor job in general which made some parts really dangerous for many people this year because of their lack in professionalism!


expid: MANA16312
peakid: MANA
year: 2016
route1: NE Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Nima Namgyal Sherpa
sponsor: Hong Kong Manaslu Expedition 2016
countries: China
approach: Lho->Samagaon
bcdate: 2016-09-10
smtdate: 2016-09-30
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2016-10-02
campsites: BC(10/09,4850m),C1(17/09,5700m),C2(27/09,6200m),C3(28/09,6750m),C4(29/09,7400m),Smt(30/09)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Ng and two Sherpas left C4 at 2:15 am on 30 Sept, summited at 7:00 am (went beyond the fixed ropes), stayed 25 minutes, then descended to base camp. Sunny, but very windy.


expid: MANA16313
peakid: MANA
year: 2016
route1: NE Face
nation: USA
leaders: Willi Benegas
sponsor: Benegas Brothers Expeditions (BBE) Manaslu 2016
countries: Argentina, Norway
approach: Bulbule->Larkya La->BC
bcdate: 2016-09-16
smtdate: 2016-10-01
smttime: 0943
termdate: 2016-10-04
termnote: Stopped at fore-summit (8125m) due to end of fixed-rope
campsites: BC(16/09,4800m),C1(20/09,5650m),C2(29/09,6200m),C3(30/09,6800m),ForeSmt(01/10,8125m)
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  Summit team set out from C3 at 12:45 pm on 1 Oct, summited at 9:43 am, stayed 10 minutes, then descended to C2 arriving at 4 pm.

  25 mph winds from the NE making difficult climbing due to snow movement (breaking trail).

  The conditions of the rope-fixing by Seven Summits was poor, so we needed to re-fix constantly.

  Oxygen: Used from 6800m to high point down to 6800m.


expid: MANA16314
peakid: MANA
year: 2016
route1: NE Face
nation: UK
leaders: Sean James
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Manaslu Expedition 2016
countries: Australia, Russia, USA
bcdate: 2016-09-11
smtdate: 2016-10-02
termnote: Stopped at fore-summit (8125m) due to end of fixed-rope
campsites: BC(11/09,4800m),C1,C2,C3,C4(01/10,7400m),ForeSmt(02/10,8125m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Account by David Tilly:

  Summit push: We camped at camp 4, at 7400m and ate and drank ready for leaving the camp at 11:30pm. Our team was 5 people strong plus Sherpa support, one per person. 2 using supplemental oxygen, and three including myself without. All Sherpas had oxygen. I was first to leave camp with Ben Kane. Ben is a veteran high altitude climber guiding/climbing over 7 trips, but that elusive summit had remained unclimbed for him. Yuri and Mardana left at 12:30pm on oxygen and finally Sean left at 1:30pm. Sean is an incredibly strong climber, yet this was his first attempt without oxygen.

  It was windy when we left and the temperature was -20C plus the wind chill factor, which was – who knows, it was pretty windy but nowhere near desperate. After about two hours, my left foot was freezing, despite my anticipation that it would warm when I began to move for a while. I stopped to take a pair of socks off (my boots felt too cramped), and put new batteries in my heated socks. This had almost no effect and my toes continued to bother me, despite wiggling them continuously for the entire push.

  Within two hours, the other guys had caught me and Ben, and as I stopped to try to warm my feet, Ben passed me and I was alone on the mountain, with KB my climbing Sherpa.

  Becoming colder and colder, I yearned for the sun to come up, but it didn’t relent. Glancing at the time, it was 4;30am, still an hour before I would see the sun. As I approached 8,000m I began to reach the limits of my resolve. I was utterly exhausted, spent of all energy. No light, shivering violently. I have read tonnes of mountaineering literature, watch everything I could get my hands on to learn about what it’s like, to try and make it safely back when I finally took my shot at this challenge.

  I asked KB to radio to Ang Phurba (our leading climbing Sherpa), to ask him where they were. I could see head lamps ahead in the distance, but couldn’t discern how far away they were. The call came back to say they were at the second summit rise, going for the top. The lights seemed as though I could reach out and touch them, yet I knew they were at least an hour ahead of me. As I realised this, I heard Ed Viesturs voice in my head, saying getting up is optional, getting down is mandatory. As the snow began to move and change in front of my very eyes, mildly hallucinating, I suddenly felt like I had just woken up and found myself in this position, I decided enough was probably enough and it was time to turn around, not wanting to be left on the side of this mountain as a relic of what could have been.

  I told KB enough was enough and it was time to descend, still a massive undertaking!

  KB got on the radio and then turned to me and offered me his oxygen mask and told me that we could get to the top if I took it. Whilst only at a flow rate of 1litre a minute, which max is 4 litre’s per minute, the difference was incredible! My left foot was warm in 5 mins flat and I felt revived. I began my struggle upwards once more. The work was still unbelievably hard even with the oxygen, but just about manageable, and I wasn’t hallucinating any more.

  An hour later we arrived on the summit. The wind was kind enough to die momentarily, to allow me to get out the handmade flag I had made with the logo for A4D and my wife. Two messages I had wished to convey from the summit.
  It all seemed very matter of fact. Get the flag, get the photo and get off this mountain. The time was approx. 8am.

  My decision to use the oxygen was bitter sweet. I had said ‘I would rather get to 7800m and turn around, than use oxygen’. Yet I had taken it to finish the last 140m. At first I felt like I had failed. But on reflection, I think I had made the biggest success possible. I had made the correct decision to descend for the right reasons. The kind offer of the oxygen from KB meant nothing more than allowing me to stand on the top. It seemed sabotage to refuse and not to finish what I had started, being so close. But I know deep down I had the resolve to make the right decision at the right time, even though an incredibly hard one!

  After organising the required photo’s, I wanted, I declined the further use of Oxygen from KB and decided I was done with it and it was all downhill from here anyway. We began to descend. Back off oxygen, it was excruciating hard work!

  Several hours (I cannot remember how long) we arrived at camp 4 where I collapsed and lay in the snow. I wanted to just sleep, rest. The Sherpa Phurba Rita (15 Everest Summits to his name) said we were not staying here and we had to go down once he had stripped camp four. I continued to lay there until pushed out of the camp.

  As we approached camp 3, I felt in the pit of my stomach, they had stripped this camp also. I sat in the snow, and said to KB, call Ang Phurba and ask what the hell is going on. I could not go on any further. The message came back over the Radio. Camp stripped, descend to camp 2.

  I felt utterly deflated, finished, yet I had no choice. I knew that every metre we descended equalled more safety for us. Like a zombie, I staggered down towards camp two, hoping this whole ordeal would be over soon.

  Arriving at Camp 2, Ben was there. We hugged and congratulated each other. I was beginning to come around and felt I had more energy, a side effect of the thicker air no doubt. Ben was packing his rucksack and said we were going all the way to base camp. I just laughed, and thought to myself as we had said jokingly all the trip ‘harden the f**k up’ as a joke to one another. I began to pack up and with a 25kg load, imagined myself as a true Sherpa, vowing to dump a load at camp 1 and send up someone else the following day to get it. Base camp was still 5 hours away and we had to descend with a big load through the ice field, which at this time of the day, would be getting more and more unstable as the sun baked it. This passage certainly being the most dangerous part of the entire climb.

  As if the day’s events had not tested me enough, we arrived at the 4 ladder crossing. I could do nothing but laugh. Instead of crossing a single crevasse, as we had done on ascent, now I was expected to jump across the fist crevasse onto a snow ledge like something out of Cliffhanger with Stallone, and then onto what I can only describe as a joke of a ladder crossing. The ladders were literally falling apart, and curved down into the crevasse as the lashings had loosening over time. If they would take my weight, it would be a miracle, but with no other options, off I went. Arriving at the other side having been hyperventilating the entire way across, a feeling of relief overwhelmed me. I then held the ropes tight for Phurba Ridar and KB to cross. They followed…. carefully!

  Arriving at Camp 1, I dumped some weight and set off right away for base camp ahead of the Sherpas. The light fading fast and the temperature dropping, I realised I had no head torch or suitable clothes, all in the packs of others or in tents. I remembered I had an emergency head torch which turned out to be as much use as a chocolate fire guard. After an hour of descending off the glacier and the moraine, I had no choice but to sit down, and wait for someone to come down with a light. The two Sherpas arrived half an hour later. Luckily the weather remained fair. I finally arrived at Base camp at 8pm, a shell of my former self. I had one drink and fell into my tent, exhausted but having achieved the summit and full descent all within 24 hrs. There was no elation, only sleep.


expid: MANA16315
peakid: MANA
year: 2016
route1: NE Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Alexia Zuberer
sponsor: Rolwaling Excursion Manaslu Expedition 2016
countries: France
approach: Larkya La
bcdate: 2016-09-11
smtdate: 2016-10-01
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2016-10-03
campsites: BC(11/09,4800m),C1(14/09,5700m),C2(20/09,6300m),C3(21/09,6800m),C4(30/09,7400m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion (Himalayan Guides pmt)
routememo:
  BC  11/09  4800m
  C1  14/09  5700m
  C2  20/09  6300m
  C3  21/09  6800m
  C4  30/09  7400m
  Smt 01/10  by Zuberer at 9:30 am.

  Zuberer and Ferragu left C4 at  2am. It was windy but the wind died down later. At about 8050m Ferragu turned around due to cold feet. She descended to C4. Zuberer spent about 10 minutes on the summit, then descended to C4, picked up Ferragu and the tent and the two descended to BC, where they arrived at 10 pm. 

  The team only had one tent which they moved around.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


expid: MANA16316
peakid: MANA
year: 2016
route1: NE Face
nation: Sweden
leaders: Carina Ahlqvist
sponsor: Swedish Manaslu Expedition 2016
approach: Larkya La
bcdate: 2016-09-15
smtdate: 2016-09-30
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2016-10-02
termnote: Stopped at fore-summit (8125m) due to end of fixed-rope
agency: Rolwaling Excursion (Himalayan Guides pmt)
campsites:
  BC(15/09,4800m),C1(17/09,5600m),C2(21/09,6400m),C3(28/09,6800m),C4(29/09,7450m),ForeSmt(30/09,8125m)

routememo:
  BC    15/09  4800m
  C1    17/09  5600m
  C2    21/09  6400m
  C3    28/09  6800m
  C4    29/09  7450m
  F-Smt 30/09  by Ahlqvist, Jit Bahadur at 9:30 am.

  Team left C4 at 3 am. High winds during the start, but then calmed down. Big Chinese team was on route as well. They spent about 30 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at 5 pm. On 1 Oct back to BC.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C4 to top to C4 by Ahlqvist and Sherpa.

  Sherpa:
    Jit Bahadur (Thile), Khare-5, Dolakha, 30/07/1978


  Note from Carina Ahlqvist, 31 Oct 2016:

  Hello Billi,

  Thank you for your message. I got to the end of the fixed rope. My sherpa told me this was the official spot for the summit. Another sherpa told me that I have to take a photo with me next to that yellowish rock to prove later that I had been to the summit. I didn't see anyone moving up to that other place which later on turned out to be the spot where I should have needed to go. It looked rather dangerous without rope. My sherpa wanted me to go down as soon as possible, not further up.

  My concern is that the sherpa who was guiding me said that he has summited several times before and that each time this "foresummit" had been the place where he had gone. Reading that Russell Brice fixed the rope to the real summit 2008-2014 it doesnt make sense that my sherpa only went to the foresummit the previous times, claiming that he had been to the (real) summit. At least he should have informed me about that there is a false and true summit when we were standing there so that I could have taken a decision from facts about whether to proceed or not. Now he told me I was standing on the real summit. I am not trying to find scapegoats to blame others, and I myself should have known where the summit was. But out from the films and pictures I had seen on Youtube and alike before, it looked like a rather smaller spot with great views around and I thought, out from the situation with ropes ending there, that I had reached that spot. So I will not pay that sherpa any summit bonus.

  I was believing that I was at the official summit until a few days ago. Even Russell Brice claimed that he had reached the summit on October 1st on FB. I also saw photos from the foresummits. So why should I believe that I had not reached the summit? You cannot believe how sad I am to hear that my effort will not be the first Swedish woman on the summit of Manaslu, as I was so close. I had thought of wriDng articles out of this. Now I can do nothing. Reading the blog by Mark Horrell, exposing myself in his blog as someone who is claiming to have been on the top although it was false, I think it is unfair. I was not trying to make up a story out of false facts. I thought I was standing on the summit and acted out from that. Kegarnee.

  Now, you got the full story from my perspective.

  Have you heard how the Department of tourim is reasoning? 

  Carina Ahlqvist


expid: MANA16317
peakid: MANA
year: 2016
route1: NE Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Satish Man Pati
countries: Japan
approach: Besisahar->Dharapani->Bhimtang->Larkya La->Samagaon
bcdate: 2016-09-03
smtdate: 2016-09-29
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2016-10-03
termnote: Stopped at fore-summit (8125m) due to end of fixed-rope
campsites: BC(03/09,4800m),C1,C2,C3,ForeSmt(29/09,8125m)
agency: Nirekha Adventures (Seven Summit Treks pmt)
routememo:
  Satish, Ms. Shimoyama, Pasang Bhote and Milan Rai started from C4 at 1 am on 29 September. They reached summit at 8 am and stayed there for about 30 minutes. They descended at C4 at about 10 am, then continued to BC where they arrived around 7 pm.


expid: MANA16318
peakid: MANA
year: 2016
route1: NE Face
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Antonin Belik
sponsor: Czech Republic Manaslu Expedition 2016
approach: Dharapani->Lower Bhimtang->Larkya La->Samdo->Samagaon
bcdate: 2016-09-11
smtdate: 2016-10-01
smttime: 0745
termdate: 2016-10-03
termnote: Stopped at fore-summit (8125m) due to end of fixed-rope
agency: Campobase Treks (Satori Adv pmt)
campsites:
  BC(11/09,4850m),C1(16/09,5700m),C2(17/09,6300m),C3(29/09,6800m),C4(30/09,7400m),ForeSmt(01/10,8125m)

routememo:
  Team left C4 at 1:15 am on 1 Oct, summited at 7:45 am, stayed 20 minutes, then descended to C4 arriving about 10 am, then to C2 at about 3 pm. Good weather, but strong wind on the summit.


expid: MANA16319
peakid: MANA
year: 2016
route1: NE Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Mingma Gyalje Sherpa
sponsor: Dreamers Destination Treks Manaslu Expedition 2016
countries: China
approach: Larkya La
bcdate: 2016-09-10
smtdate: 2016-09-30
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2016-10-03
campsites: BC(10/09,4750m),C1(14/09,5600m),C2(15/09,6200m),C3(29/09,7400m),Smt(30/09)
agency: Dreamers Destination Treks
routememo:
  BC    10/09  4750m
  C1    14/09  5600m
  C2    15/09  6200m
  C3    29/09  7400m
  F-Smt 30/09  by Siu, Cen, Wang, Tamtin, Dawa Gyalje, Phurita at 8:45 am 
  Smt   30/09  by Mingma Gyalje at 9 am.

  Team left C4 at 5 am. Weather good and calm. Straightforward climb. Mingma Gyalje went on to the true summit (few people did this year) and the rest of the team stopped at the fore-summit. All members and Sherpas descended to BC, where they arrived between 9:30 pm and 11 pm. On the abseil before C2 there was a long queue.

  Oxygen: taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members; 
          Mingma Gyalje, Tamtin, Dawa Gyalje and Phurita did not use oxygen.

  Sherpas:
    Tamtin (Thomting, Tamding), Beding, 19/12/1974	
    Dawa Gyalje, Beding, 15/03/1979
    Phurita, Thami, 15/04/1982


expid: MANA16320
peakid: MANA
year: 2016
route1: NE Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Krishna Thapa Magar
sponsor: Wild Yaks/Himalayan Ski & Treks Manaslu Expedition 2016
countries: Austria, UK
approach: Besisahar->Dharapani->Larkya La->Samagaon
bcdate: 2016-09-17
smtdate: 2016-09-30
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2016-10-02
termnote: Stopped at fore-summit (8125m) due to end of fixed-rope
agency: Wild Yak Expeditions
campsites:
  BC(17/09,4800m),C1(19/09,5800m),C2(20/09,6400m),C3(28/09,6800m),C4(29/09,7450m),ForeSmt(30/09,8125m)

routememo:
  Filzmoser and Ang Kami left C4 at 3 am on 30 Sept, summited at 9:30 am, stayed 20-30 minutes, then descended to C2 arriving at 3 pm.

  Between C3 and C4 strong windstorm; clearing up during the night, waited until most of the commercial groups with oxygen where on their way. Sunny, no clouds on the way up and on top no wind, beautiful view.

  15-16 October, Krishna Thapa Magar, Mingma Gyabu Sherpa (aka Mingma David) and Tashi Chhumbel Sherpa made a ski-descent from C3. They were the first Nepali skiers to descend from the height of 7500 metres on Manaslu.


expid: AMAD16345
peakid: AMAD
year: 2016
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Joan Sanchez Barril
sponsor: Spanish Ama Dablam Expedition 2016
bcdate: 2016-10-17
smtdate: 2016-10-27
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2016-11-03
campsites: BC(17/10,5000m),C1(19/10,5800m),C2(26/10,6000m),Smt(27/10)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Team left C2 at 12:30 am on 27 Oct, summited at 11 am, stayed 10 minutes, then descended to C2 arriving at 5 pm. Very cold (-27), very windy.


expid: MANA16321
peakid: MANA
year: 2016
route1: NE Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Manfred Hager
sponsor: Mauli Manaslu Expedition 2016
approach: Besisahar->Larkya La
bcdate: 2016-09-11
smtdate: 2016-09-30
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2016-10-02
campsites: BC(11/09,4800m),C1(18/09,5700m),C2(19/09,6300m),C3(28/09,6700m),C4(29/09,7400m),Smt(30/09)
agency: Iceland Trekking (Satori Adv pmt)
routememo:
  Hager and Pemba Rinzi left C4 at 3 am on 30 Sept, summited at 9 am, stayed 1 hour, then descended to C2 arriving at 4 pm. Perfect conditions, low wind and no clouds, sunny day.

  Hager took skis to 7400m and skied down in some parts below.


expid: MANA16322
peakid: MANA
year: 2016
route1: NE Face
nation: Canada
leaders: Chris Manning
sponsor: Maple Syrup Manaslu Expedition 2016
countries: USA
approach: Larkya La
bcdate: 2016-09-08
smtdate: 2016-09-30
smttime: 0635
termdate: 2016-10-02
campsites: BC(08/09,4800m),C1(10/09,5800m),C2(14/09,6325m),C3(16/09,6800m),C4(29/08,7400m),Smt(30/09)
achievment: Manning claims to be 1st to summit Manaslu with asthma and without oxygen
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  Manning and McMillin left C4 at 1:15 am, summited at 6:35 am, stayed 30 minutes for McMillin and 1.5 hours for Manning, then descended to C3 arriving at 6 pm. Conditions were excellent. Warm, no wind, many people, no clouds.


expid: MANA16323
peakid: MANA
year: 2016
route1: NE Face
nation: Romania
leaders: Vasile Cipcigan
sponsor: Satori Manaslu Expedition
countries: Georgia, Italy
approach: Besisahar->Dharapani->Bhimtang->Larkya La->Samagaon
bcdate: 2016-09-11
smtdate: 2016-10-01
smttime: 0745
termdate: 2016-10-03
termnote: Stopped at fore-summit (8125m) due to end of fixed-rope
agency: Satori Adventures
campsites:
  BC(11/09,4800m),C1(15/09,5800m),C2(20/09,6400m),C3(29/09,6900m),C4(30/09,7400m),ForeSmt(01/10,8125m)

routememo:
  BC    11/09  4800m
  C1    15/09  5800m
  C2    20/09  6400m
  C3    29/09  6900m
  C4    30/09  7400m
  F-Smt 01/10  by Cipcigan and Tsintsadze.

  Cipcigan left C4 at 00:22 am on 1 Oct and summited at 7:45 am. He stayed on summit for about 10 minutes, then back to C4 at around 11 am. He continued to C2 where he arrived at 3 pm. Next day 2 Oct he went down to BC. At BC he realized pain in his feet due to frostbite. He was climbing last leg to summit with two Czech climbers Belik and Auermueller. 

  Co-climber of Cipcigan, Craciun spent night at C2 on 28 September and went down due to stomach problem.

  Note: Cipcigan is leader on the permit #15 on which there were 11 climbers from different agencies.

  Cipcigan said that the Italian climber on permit Dario Caria did not go to summit. Georgian climber Tsintsadze summited.

  All of them reached fore-summit.

  Oxygen: none

  Fixed rope: contributed money.

  Records First from Clujnapoka city
  Accident: Frost bite all toe in right and first two in left due to wet socks. He was evacuated from Samagaon by Heli.

  Sherpas:
    Mingma Temba, Yaphu-9, 19/01/80 [1924/53] (with Tsintsadze)

accidents:
  Cipcigan frostbite all toes in right and first two in left due to wet socks; he was evacuated from Samagaon by helicopter.


expid: MANA16324
peakid: MANA
year: 2016
route1: NNE Face (to 7700m)
route2: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Alberto Zerain
sponsor: Spanish-Argentinian Manaslu Expedition 2016
countries: Argentina
approach: Larkya La
bcdate: 2016-09-10
smtdate: 2016-10-04
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2016-10-06
campsites: BC(10/09,4850m),C1(19/09,6300m),xxx(01/10,7700m); NE Face->Smt(04/10)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  BC  10/09  4850m 	
  C1  19/09  6300m (on NNE Face)
  HPt 01/10  7700m by Galvan at 8 am.

  Galvan & Zerain (NNE Face):

  After team had set up C1, they spent two nights at C1 for acclimatization and descended to BC. They spent 4 days at BC and ascended again to to C1 on 27 Sept. When they reached the place where they had set up their C1, everything was gone. Nothing left, no trace of the tent or any other equipment. Zerain and Galvan slept in a bivouac and Zerain descended to BC the next morning. 

  As he was getting too cold, Galvan let the bivouac at 9 pm and reached 6800m, where he found the tent of the Japanese expedition (Cosmo Treks) at 11 am. The snow was very deep and it was hard to break trail. As he was very tired, he used the tent and spent 1-1/2 days there. He had no stove to melt snow, so he put snow into a bag and let it drop into a bottle. On 30 Sept he left the tent at around midnight and climbed to 7400m, where he made a snow cave and stayed there until 9 pm. Then he continued climbing and reached 7700m. As he was too tired to continue on this route, he traversed to the normal route. He joined the normal route between C3 and C4 and descended to BC the same day. He arrived there at 6 pm.

  Zerain accimatization push (NE Face):

  On 29 Sept Zerain left BC at 5 pm and ascended in one go to C3, where he arrived at 2 am. He rested for 2 hours and continued to C4, where he arrived at about 9 am; he turned back and descended to BC, where he arrived at 1 pm.

  Galvan summit push (NE Face):

  Galvan was very tired and rested for a day. When Zerain decided to go up again on 2 Oct, Galvan did not join him as he needed to rest. However on 3 Oct, Galvan had recovered and decided to go to the summit in one single push. He left BC at 4:45 pm on 3 Oct. He took short rests in C1 and C2. He bypassed C3 and reached C4 at 7 am on 4 Oct. He got into a tent, where he left his rucksack and continued to the summit at about 7:15 am. He reached the summit at around 11:30 am and spent about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to BC, where he arrived at 9 pm.

  Zerrain summit push (NE Face):

  On 2 Oct Zerain left BC at 5 pm and ascended to C3, where he arrived at 5 am on 3 Oct. It was very windy and he waited in his tent for the storm to abate. At about 1 am on 4 Oct he intended to start for the summit push but it was too windy, so he left at 6 am for his summit push. He reached the summit at 5 pm and spent about half an hour there. He descended descended to C4, where he arrived at 6:30 pm. He spent the night in a tent of Seven Summit Treks. The following day to BC.

  Zerain did not know that Galvan also went for the summit and their paths did not cross. 

  Summit on 4 Oct by Zerain at 5 pm
  Summit on 4 Oct by Galvan at 11:30 am

  Team returned to Ktmdu on 6 Oct by helicopter.


expid: MANA16325
peakid: MANA
year: 2016
route1: NE Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Danilo Callegari
sponsor: Italian Manaslu Expedition 2016
approach: Dharapani->BC
bcdate: 2016-09-11
smtdate: 2016-10-01
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2016-10-03
campsites: BC(11/09,4800m),C1(15/09,5700m),C2(21/09,6400m),C3(22/09,6900m),C4(30/09,7400m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Climbalaya
routememo:
  Callegari started summit push on 1 Oct at 1:00am from C4. Good conditions, sun, strong wind in the night and when arrived sunshine. Weak wind in all day. Callegari was on the summit alone about 5-8 minutes, then back in C4 where he rested for about 2 hours and then back to C3 where he slept.


expid: MANA16326
peakid: MANA
year: 2016
route1: E Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Suguru Takano
sponsor: Tokyo University of Agriculture Manaslu Expedition 2016
approach: Besisahar->Larkya La->BC
bcdate: 2016-08-27
smtdate: 2016-10-07
smttime: 1335
termdate: 2016-10-12
campsites: BC(27/08,4500m),C1(07/09,5500m),C2(13/09,6000m),C3(20/09,6650m),C4(05/10,7450m),Smt(07/10)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  E Ridge route was first climbed by Wilfried Studer from Austria in 1985. It joins the normal route on the NE Face above C3.

  Diary compiled from the Tokyo University of Agriculture Manaslu Expedition site:

  27 Aug: team arrived at normal NE Face BC 4800m.
  29 Aug: puja
  30-31 Aug: route reconnaissance.
  1 Sept: lower route preparation.
  2-6 Sept: carried gear to C1 site (5500m), rain days.
  7 Sept: moved to C1.
  8 Sept: fixed route and carry to C2 site (6000m).
  9 Sept: carried to C2 site, fixed route toward C3 site (6600m).
  10-11 Sept: rest days.
  12 Sept: moved to C1.
  13 Sept: moved to C2.
  14-15 Sept: carried to C3 site, returned to BC.
  16-17 Sept: rest days.
  18 Sept: moved to C1.
  19 Sept: moved to C2.
  20 Sept: moved to C3.
  21 Sept: carried to C4 (attack camp).
  22 Sept: returned to BC.
  23-24 Sept: rest days.
  25 Sept: moved to C2 from BC.
  26 Sept: moved to C3.
  27 Sept: carried to depot pts at 7270m and 7330m.
  28 Sept: returned to BC.
  29 Sept-Oct 1: rest days.
  2 Oct: moved to C2.
  3 Oct: moved to C3.
  4 Oct: stayed at C3 (due to weather).
  5 Oct: moved to C4.

  First summit bid from C4 on 6 Oct by all six members. They turned back at 7600m due to high winds and bad visibility. Hasegawa used oxygen.

  Second summit bid from C4 on 7 Oct by Takano and Onodera with oxygen; the other four returned to C3. Takano and Onodera summited at 13:35 on 7 Oct. Onodera slipped and fell to his death while positioning himself to video Takano on the summit. Takano descended to C3 arriving at 5 pm. After accident report, Nishide returned to BC while other three waited for Takano at C3. 8 Oct all five returned to BC.

  Subsequent searches by team members and by helicopter on 9 Oct failed to find the body of Onodera due to bad weather.

  Remaining team members departed BC on 12 Oct.


expid: MANA16327
peakid: MANA
year: 2016
route1: NE Face
nation: Norway
leaders: Une Prestholt
sponsor: Ascent Himalayas Manaslu Expedition 2016
countries: Brazil, UK
bcdate: 2016-09-11
smtdate: 2016-09-30
smttime: 0815
termnote: Stopped at fore-summit (8125m) due to end of fixed-rope
campsites: BC(11/09,4700m),C1,C2(6400m),C3,C4(29/09,7450m),ForeSmt(30/09,8125m)
agency: Ascent Himalayas
routememo:
  From Ascent Himalayas Facebook page:

  Ascent Himalayas Manaslu (8163m) Expedition summits. Congratulations to our team who reached the top of the 8th highest mountain in the world this morning 30th September. Delighted for everyone and wishing you a safe descent. Tsering [Pemba] Sherpa and Gethin Gwyn Davies made the summit at 8:15 am (Nepal time) while Pasang Tenzing Sherpa, Nima Gyalzen Sherpa, Tsering Bhote, Simon Thomasson, Une Prestholt and Haakon Aasvang reached the summit at approximately 9:25 am. Adriano Da Cunha Freire, Furtemba Sherpa and Thundu Sherpa will leave Camp 4 early tomorrow morning to attempt the summit.


expid: TILI16301
peakid: TILI
year: 2016
route1: NE Spur-N Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Oxana Morneva
sponsor: Makalu Extreme Tilicho Expedition
bcdate: 2016-10-21
smtdate: 2016-11-04
smttime: 0400
campsites: BC(21/10),C1(25/10),C2(28/10),Smt(04/11)
agency: Makalu Extreme Treks
routememo:
  Arrived at BC   21-10-2016
  1st night at C1 25-10-2016
  1st night at C2 28-10-2016
  Summit date on  04-11-2016 (4 am) by Oxana Morneva, Iurii Nikolaev, Lhakpa Nuru,
    Lhakpa Tshering, Lhakpa Gyaltsen, Dawa Tenzing, Pasang Dorje.


expid: MUKT16301
peakid: MUKT
year: 2016
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
sponsor: Paulo Mukot Expedition 2016
countries: Belgium
approach: Pokhara->Beni->Marpha->Hidden Valley BC
bcdate: 2016-09-26
smtdate: 2016-09-28
termdate: 2016-09-30
termnote: Abandoned due to bad weather
campsites: BC(26/09),C1(28/09,6110m),xxx(6025m)
agency: Yeti Adventure
routememo:
  Team trekked in to BC via Pokhara, Beni, Marpha and Dhampus Pass BC arriving at the Jomsom side BC on 26 Sept. C1 (at Mukut Pass) was established at 6110m. Grobel and Rajan Bhote went up to 6025 to examine the route. But due to bad weather the team did not succeed to climb Mukut Himal, but traversed Mukot Pass to the Dolpo side with a descent to Mu and a return in Upper Dolpo to Jomsom via Chharka and  Sangda.


expid: NGOR16301
peakid: NGOR
year: 2016
route1: S Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Wolfgang Drexler
sponsor: Austrian Nagoru Expedition 2016
ascent1: 1st
approach: Koto->Phu->Nagoru
bcdate: 2016-10-16
smtdate: 2016-10-21
smttime: 1015
termdate: 2016-10-23
campsites: BC(16/10,4400m),ABC(18/10/16),Smt(21/10)
achievment: 1st ascent of Nagoru Central (6165m)
othersmts:
  Summited Nagoru West (6075m) on 30 Oct 2013 by Drexler and Lawang Tamang; summited Nagoru East (6116m) on 1 Nov 2013 by Drexler, Birgit Walk and Lawang Tamang (1st ascent)

routememo:
  Drexler and Tamang left ABC at 4 am on 21 Oct and summited at 10:15 am, stayed 45 minutes, then descended to ABC. Perfect weather conditions, almost no wind.

  Access over moraines to the base of the rocky South Ridge; ascent on loose scree on the lower part of South Ridge, then on solid ground up to firm rock (45 degrees), which was left over and polished by the glacier; further up along the edge of this rock formation and over a small saddle to the upper part of the glacier. On the glacier (40 degrees) up to the eastern summit ridge and from there north of the ridge on an easy path up to the summit from the north.

  Drexler and Lawang Tamang summited Nagoru West (6075m) on 30 Oct 2013 (1st ascent).

  Drexler, Birgit Walk and Lawang Tamang summited Nagoru East (6116m) on 1 Nov 2013 (1st ascent).


expid: MANA16328
peakid: MANA
year: 2016
route1: NE Face
nation: Argentina
leaders: Sebastian Aldana
sponsor: Snowy Horizon Manaslu Expedition 2016
countries: Iran, Norway
approach: Arughat
smtdate: 2016-09-30
smttime: 1000
campsites: BC(4700m),C1,C2(6300m),C3,C4,Smt(30/09)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  Sebastian Aldana's Facebook page states that Aldana and Nicholas Fiad summited at 10 am on 30 Sept without oxygen. Summit photo shows that team went beyond the end of the fixed ropes set by the Seven Summit Treks Sherpa team.


expid: NAN216301
peakid: NAN2
year: 2016
route1: NE Ridge from E
nation: Japan
leaders: Tsuneo Shigehiro
sponsor: East Nepal Expedition for Kansai of Japanese Alpine Club 2016
ascent1: 1st
approach: Taplejung->Ghunsa->Nango La->Marson La->Yangma->BC
bcdate: 2016-09-29
smtdate: 2016-10-17
smttime: 1237
termdate: 2016-10-21
campsites: BC(29/09,4800m),C1(02/10,5050m),C2(15/10,5580m),Smt(17/10)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Team only summited Nangamari II. Team held permit for Nangamari I and were planning to traverse to Nangamari I from the summit of Nangamari II.

  Sep 29: Arrival at BC from Ghunsa
  Oct 01: Established C1 at 5050m.
  Oct 02: Climbed to uppeer deposit 5448m
  Oct 15: Estabished C2 to 5580m
  Oct 16: Climbed to 5880m, then back to C2
  Oct 17: Summited Nangamari II (all 9 members)
  Oct 21: Departed BC to Ghunsa


expid: SALW16301
peakid: SALW
year: 2016
route1: S Face
nation: Romania
leaders: Vlad Capusan
sponsor: Snowy Horizon Saldim (Peak 5) Unclimbed Peak Expedition 2016
ascent1: 1st
approach: By helicopter from Khumbu
bcdate: 2016-10-28
smtdate: 2016-10-31
smttime: 1410
termdate: 2016-11-02
othersmts: Summited Kyajo Ri (Oct 25) via SE Ridge
campsites: BC(28/10,4200m),Biv(30/10,5800m),Smt(31/10),Biv(31/10,5900m)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  Capusan and Torok first went to Khumbu and climbed Kyajo Ri by the 2006 American route from Oct 22 to 25.

  Then they flew to Makalu region arriving at the base of Saldim on 28 Oct. After waiting a day for bad weather, the started their 3-day alpine-style ascent on 30 Oct. They bivouaced the first night in a crevasse at 5800m, then continued on to the summit the next topping out at 2:10 pm after traversing the final ridge to the summit. They descended to 5900m for an overnight bivouac before continuing down the base camp on 1 Nov.


  26 Oct: had helicopter flight to Makalu Barun valley, but there they realized their map was wrong, the peak coveted line lying in an other valley. After considerable efforts and thanks to the maps sent by Doug Scott, the duet and its team reached the base of the line on 28 Oct. 

  Base camp at 4200m reached on 28 Oct.

  30 Oct: started to climb. Rock difficulties up to 6a+ that day on solid granite. Climb stopped that day because of bad weather. Bivouac in a crevasse at 5800m. 

  31 Oct: after a very cold night (-27°), went trough upper wall in 6 pitches with difficulties up to M5-6 and W4. From top of the wall, found a thin ridge which led in 3 hours to the top, reached at 2:10 pm (Nepali time). Altimeter measured 6421m. Back to a bivy around 5900m that day, after a 15 hours climb in very cold temperatures (-25 to -30°C).
   
  01 Nov: after 20 rappels, duet got back to BC.
   
  It's the first ascent of the peak. The route "Romanian flame" is 1600m high with difficulties up to 6a/M5,6/AI4/90°.


expid: PANB16301
peakid: PANB
year: 2016
route1: E Face
nation: France
leaders: Jean Annequin
sponsor: French Panbari Expedition Autumn 2016
approach: Darapani->Bimthang
bcdate: 2016-09-30
smtdate: 2016-10-06
termdate: 2016-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6050m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(30/09,4740m),C1(04/10,5850m),xxx(06/10,6050m)
agency: Khumbu Shangri-La Nepal
routememo:
  Hoped for some ski descents in the area. Had 3 attempts on a 450m slope at 35°, but heavy snow conditions led the leader to decide to stop the expedition on 15 Oct.


expid: KNAG16301
peakid: KNAG
year: 2016
route1: SSW Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Genki Narumi
sponsor: Team Kang Nachugo Expedition 2016
ascent1: 2nd ascent
approach: Rolwaling Valley to Na
bcdate: 2016-10-08
smtdate: 2016-10-17
termdate: 2016-10-19
campsites: BC(08/10,4100m),ABC(15/10,4975m),Biv1(16/10,6250m),Smt(17/10),Biv2(17/10,6450m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Tom Nakamura - 19 Feb 2017

  Two climbers were Yamamoto and Narumi (both male). Their first objective was unclimbed 2000m East Face. However because of worst wall conditions (incessant falling snow and falling rocks, they resigned the East Face and instead climbed the South Face. This was the second ascent of the peak itself and the South Face as well. BC was set up at 4100m, ABC at 4975m. Climbing started on 70-80°ice wall and finished on steepest rockbands at 6400m, then to the summit ridge.


expid: GANG16302
peakid: GANG
year: 2016
route1: N Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Fumitaka Ichimura
sponsor: Team Giri Giri Boys Gangapurna Expedition 2016
termnote: Abandoned during route recon due to crevasses
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Ichimura fell into a crevasse during route reconnaisance and gave up the climb. He was not seriously hurt.                                                    


expid: PK4116301
peakid: PK41
year: 2016
route1: N Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Koo Eun-Soo
sponsor: Korean Peak 41 Expedition 2016
approach: Lukla->Chutanga->Cheterwa->Kote->Tangnag->Khare->Kongmadigma
bcdate: 2016-10-10
smtdate: 2016-10-27
termdate: 2016-10-27
achievment: 1st ascent of the North Face
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal
campsites:
  BC(10/10,4800m),ABC(17/10,5027m),Biv1(18/10,5400m),Biv2(20/10,5577m),Biv3(22/10,5909m),Biv4(23/10,6244m),Biv5(26/10,6405m),Smt(27/10)

routememo:
  BC   10/10  4800m (same as 2014)
  ABC  17/10  5027m
  Biv1 18/10  5400m
  Biv2 20/10  5577m
  Biv3 22/10  5909m
  Biv4 23/10  6244m
  Biv5 26/10  6405m
  Smt  27/10  by Yoo Hak-Jae and Koo Eun-Soo in the morning.

  Members: 
    Koo Eun-Soo: (L)(S)
    Choy Ji-Won: gave up due to altitude sickness
    Han Dong-Ik: 6405m, abandonned on summit day 27 Oct at snow cave of North Peak
    Yoo Hak-Jae: (S)

  Schedule:
    Oct 16: left the base camp
    Oct 17: ABC(5027m)
    Oct 18: bivouac 1 (5400m)
    Oct 19: bivouac 1 (5400m)
    Oct 20: bivouac 2 (5577m)
    Oct 21: bivouac 2 (5577m)
    Oct 22: bivouac 3 (5909m)
    Oct 23: bivouac 4 (6244m)
    Oct 24: bivouac 4 (6244m)
    Oct 25: bivouac 4 (6244m)
    Oct 26: bivouac 5 at North Peak (snow cave, 6405m)
    Oct 27: reached main summit (6648m) in the morning

  Summit is very sharp (the altitude differed 100m between two men due to the altimeters). On that day, trio retreated by helicopter from the snow cave at North Peak, not by their own asking, but by firm order of head of the team (not a climbing member), without any discussion in advance. He worried about snow avalanche on their route, and their returning date to Korea.

  New line, “Korean route” is 1688m high (5.9/A1), lying right side of the North Face.

  Team left BC on 27 Oct.

  Oxygen: not taken not used


expid: TOBS16201
peakid: TOBS
year: 2016
route1: NW side
nation: Nepal
leaders: Sunar Bahadur Gurung
sponsor: Nepalese Tobsar Expedition 2016
approach: Helicopter to Mu Gompa
bcdate: 2016-07-14
smtdate: 2016-07-15
termdate: 2016-07-17
termnote: Abandoned at 5600m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(14/07,4700m),xxx(15/07,5600m)
agency: Churen Himal Treks
routememo:
  Base Camp on 14 July at 4700m.
  High point on 15 July at 5600m.
  Climb abandoned on 15 July due to bad weather.

  Three climbers, Sunar, Anup and Iman, started from BC at 6 am they reached 5600m at 2 pm in heavy rainfall. They got back to BC at 5 pm.


expid: MALA14301
peakid: MALA
year: 2014
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hirotaka Takeuchi
sponsor: Japanese Malanphulan Expedition 2014
approach: Lukla->Zatra La->Khare
bcdate: 2014-09-25
smtdate: 2014-10-15
termdate: 2014-10-18
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to loose rock and difficulty finding route
campsites: BC(25/09,4900m),ABC(26/09,5300m),C1(14/10,5600m),xxx(15/10,5800m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC  25/09  4900m below lake	
  ABC 26/09  5300m
  C1  14/10  5600m
  HPt 15/10  5800m by Sengoku and Takeuchi.

  First attempt of this route. Very little information and knowledge of the mountain. Takeuchi thought the summit could be reached in one day from C1, but it was too far away. 	

  The rock on the ridge was very loose and it was difficult to find the way.


expid: MALA16301
peakid: MALA
year: 2016
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hirotaka Takeuchi
sponsor: Japanese Malanphulan Expedition 2016
approach: Lukla->Zatra La->Khare
bcdate: 2016-10-18
smtdate: 2016-10-21
termdate: 2016-10-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to loose rock and difficulty finding route
campsites: BC(18/10,5100m),ABC(19/10,5300m),C1(20/10,5600m),xxx(21/10,6300m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC  18/10  5100m at the lake
  ABC 19/10  5300m
  C1  20/10  5600m
  HPt 21/10  6300m by Sengoku and Takeuchi.	

  On their summit push, the team encountered too much snow on the ridge. Cornices were too dangerous and it was very cold. After about 12 hours of climbing they decided to turn back to C1. They stayed the night and on 22 Oct they returned to BC. 

  The rock on the ridge was very loose and it was difficult to find the way.


expid: EVER13189
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Marion Chaygneaud-Dupuy
sponsor: French Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2013-04-05
smtdate: 2013-05-18
termdate: 2013-05-25
campsites: BC(05/04),Smt(18/05)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  Summit on 18 may at 8:30 CST (6:15 NST) by Chaygneaud-Dupuy, Tamtin Sherpa, Mingma Tshering.

  Oxygen: 
    7500m to top to 7500m by Chaygneaud-Dupuy; 7900m to top to 7900m by Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Tamtin (Thomting, Tamding), Beding, 19/12/1974
    Mingma Tshering, Beding, Dolakha, 26/09/1982 (died in July 2016 of cancer)


expid: KCHS16302
peakid: KCHS
year: 2016
route1: Kangchung La-NW Ridge from N
nation: UK
leaders: Paul Schweizer
sponsor: British Kangchung Shar Expedition 2016
approach: Renjo La->Gokyo->Ngozumba Glacier
bcdate: 2016-10-17
smtdate: 2016-10-26
termdate: 2016-10-27
termnote: Abandoned at 5820m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(17/10,5000m),ABC(24/10),Biv(25/10),xxx(26/10,5820m)
agency: Himalayan Ascent
routememo:
  Paul Schweizer:

  Attempted new route on North Face of Kangchung: 

  On 15 October 2016, Simon Yates and I descended from Renjo Pass and arrived in Gokyo. The place was fully packed with guided trekking groups, and there was a non-stop, rescue-insurance-fuelled helicopter shuttle to Lukla, continuously evacuating stricken tourists. We spent a day in Gokyo getting organized, and on 17 October left with our porters up the valley to a point midway between the 3rd and 4th lakes, then dropped down the steep rubble slope onto the undulating and maze-like moraines of the Ngozumba Glacier. We crossed the loose wreckage of surrounding mountains that buried the glacier, and set up BC in a high and pleasant ablation valley on a point of land on the north side of the junction of the Ngozumba and Gaunara glaciers, at 5000m. The BC offered excellent side-on views of the highly inspirational twin peaks of Cholo (6043m) and Kangchung (6063m).  

  Our objective was the 1000m unclimbed North Face of Kangchung. Simon had been in the area a number of years back, and our current expedition was motivated by some striking photos he’d taken of the unbroken ice lines that draped the North Face. However, it had been a very dry season, and we were quite disappointed when initial recon up the valley revealed that the north face was exceedingly lean compared to Simon’s photos. The bottom 3rd was completely melted out, and the ice lines in the upper two thirds were discontinuous. So after some debate we decided to change our original plan and attempt an indirect couloir line on the right side of the North Face to gain the col between Cholo and Kangchung, and then proceed up the NW Ridge. We did a final recon and acclimatization trip on 21-22 October. On 24 October we bivvied in the rather inhospitable moraine rubble on the Gaunara glacier below the North Face. We set out early the next morning (25th of October) and ascended a zigzagging line to the base of the couloir. There was a house-sized chockstone blocking midway progress, which required some Scottish V mixed climbing to negotiate. As we got higher the gully widened, but what we thought from afar would be enjoyable neve turned out to be just a thin, brittle crust over deep, unconsolidated sugar-snow. This considerably slowed our rate of progress. We reached the col in the afternoon and established high camp on the NW Ridge.

  On the morning of 26 October we set out on what we hoped would be our summit day. However, progress was again frustratingly sluggish due to the poor snow conditions. We had brought 5 ice screws in anticipation of an ice and neve line, but never placed any, and just sought occasional rock gear instead. By late afternoon we reached a notch in the NW ridge at about 5820m. There was still a fair distance of ridgeline to go, and since we had no bivy gear we decided to turn back and started rappelling and downclimbing to our high camp, which we reached just as daylight was fading.


expid: OMBG16301
peakid: OMBG
year: 2016
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Yuri Kilichenko
sponsor: Odessa Alpclub Ombigaichen Expedition 2016
approach: Khumbu Valley->Mingbo Valley
smtdate: 2016-11-01
smttime: 1200
campsites: BC,C1(29/10),C2(30/10),C3(31/10),Smt(01/11)
primid: AMAD16330
routememo:
  Team: 
    Vitaly Golev
    Yuri Kilichenko
    Maxim Perevalov
    Peter Poberezhnyi
    Yuri Vasenkov

  29 Oct: Team left lake camp at 4 am, headed up towards the Mingbo La, set foot at
          10 am on the SW Ridge. Many mushrooms and difficult crevasses.
  30 Oct: Climbed through a loose rock band (middle section of the ridge), hard to 
          protect, with difficulties between 5B and 6A. Some more "snow puzzles
          above."
  31 Oct: Snow, ice and mushrooms to negotiate.
  01 Nov: On top after surprising half a rope length.

  Route called "Wild West" is 780m high, with proper 1100m of climbing (55°, Russian 5B).


expid: MANA16401
peakid: MANA
year: 2016
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Elisabeth Revol
sponsor: French Winter Manaslu Expedition 2016-2017
approach: Jagat
bcdate: 2016-12-31
smtdate: 2017-01-22
termdate: 2017-01-23
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to deep snow and avalanche danger
campsites: BC(31/12,4800m),C1(03/01,5600m),C2(08/01,6400m),C3(21/01,6800m),xxx(22/01,7300m)
agency: Satori Adventures
routememo:
  BC  31/12  4800m 	
  C1  03/01  5600m
  C2  08/01  6400m
  C3  21/01  6800m	
  HPt 22/01  7300m by Revol.

  Giambias reached C2 on 8 Jan. He decided to abandon the expedition because of the cold. 

  On her summit push, Revol left C3 at 9 am and reached 7300m at about 11 am. She turned back due to the huge amount of snow and the cold. She descended, picked up Giambias at C2 and then both descended to BC.

  Revol thought that she had taken too many risks on that climb due to the avalanche danger as well as hidden crevasses.


expid: AMAD16351
peakid: AMAD
year: 2016
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Bertrand Roche
sponsor: French Ama Dablam Parapente Expedition 2016
approach: Lukla->Pangboche
bcdate: 2016-11-01
smtdate: 2016-11-06
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2016-11-06
campsites: BC(01/11,4600m),C1(05/11,5700m),Smt(06/11)
achievment: 1st tandem paragliding flight from Ama Dablam
agency: Himalayan Karma Treks
routememo:
  Parapente descent from the summit of Ama Dablam by Bacou and Roche on the weekend of 7 Nov. They were separate from the Portefaix French team.

  Summit day, 6 November: Bacou and Roche left C1 at midnight, summited at 8:30 am, flied down straight to Tengboche. Landed at 9 am from top with a tandem paraglide (Biskin model of Niviuk, 4 kgs weight). No one on top, but were followed by 3 Spanish people during the ascent.

  They were separate from the Portefaix French Ama Dablam team.


expid: AMAD16356
peakid: AMAD
year: 2016
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Iran
leaders: Milad Keshavarzi
sponsor: Iranian Ama Dablam Expedition 2016
bcdate: 2016-10-25
smtdate: 2016-10-28
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2016-10-29
campsites: BC(25/10,4600m),C1(26/10,5800m),C2(27/10,6200m),Smt(28/10)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking permit
routememo:
  BC  25/10  4600m
  C1  26/10  5800m
  C2  27/10  6200m
  Smt 28/10  by Keshavarzi, Shahpari and Lhakpa Dendi at 7 am.

  On summit push, team left C2 at 8 pm on 27 Oct. Conditions were good. Weather good. C2 was pretty crowded. They spent about half hour on the summit and descended to BC, where they arrived at 11 pm.


expid: LDAK16301
peakid: LDAK
year: 2016
route1: W Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Thomas Bogaard
sponsor: Dutch Langdak Expedition 2016
ascent1: 3rd
approach: Rolwaling Valley->Drolambau Glacier
bcdate: 2016-10-08
smtdate: 2016-10-11
smttime: 0615
termdate: 2016-10-12
othersmts: Climbed Yalung Ri
campsites: BC(08/10,5400m),ABC(09/10,5600m),C1(10/10,5800m),Smt(11/10)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  The team arrived 8 Oct at the campsite at the foot of the Tesi Lapcha col (the last camp normally used by Rolwaling trekking groups before crossing to Khumbu). The next day (9 Oct) they moved in the northern direction following the eastern moraine to their moraine camp (ABC) around 5600m. The next day 10 Oct continued along the moraine and stepped onto the glacier (approx. 5700m) and continued until High Camp (C1, 5750-5800m) on Drolambau glacier ESE of Langdak.

  Langdak is a fairly easy 3-4 hour climb from High Camp with a last short climb 20m of steep ice climbing. 6 of the 9 expedition members and 2 HA Sherpas (Pemba Rita Sherpa and Daringi Sherpa) in High Camp left for the summit around 3:00 hours. All 6 members and two HA Sherpa's reached the summit. No fixed rope was used except for the last ice climb. This was installed by two HA Sherpas. First team member was Thom Bogaard (expedition leader). The rest followed quickly. Summit time of the group was 6:15-7:00 hours 11 Oct. They left the summit at 7:30 hours, and returned 1.5-2 hours later back to High Camp, relaxed, had a early lunch and packed everything and walked down to the moraine camp east side of Drolambau Glacier. The day after they walked straight to Eagles Nest camp (skipping the Tesi Lapcha camp).

  Hendrik van Bilderbeek did not go with the group from High Camp as he was unfit due to 2 weeks of health problems.

  Renske Stoker and Marcel Van Lienden left the expedition at Na village after Van Lienden got altitude sickenss on Yalung Ri during the acclimatization climb.


expid: EVER16401
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Alex Chicon (Alex Txikon)
sponsor: Alex Txikon Everest Winter 2016/2017
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-01-04
smtdate: 2017-02-14
termdate: 2017-03-12
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to high winds
campsites: BC(04/01,5350m),C1(13/01,6050m),C2(15/01,6400m),C3(23/01,7100m),C4(04/02,7950m),xxx(14/02,8000m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  04/01  5350m
  C1  13/01  6050m	
  C2  15/01  6400m	
  C3  23/01  7100m
  C4  04/02  7950m by Chhiji Nurbu, Phurba, Nuri, Pemba Thinduk
  HPt 14/02  8000m by Chhiji Nurbu, Nuri, Chhepal, Pemba Thinduk, Txikon, Phurba.

  Nima Sherpa and Gyalzen Sherpa were Icefall doctors and fixed the route through the icefall together with Txikon's team of Sherpas. Txikon and Rubio also helped with the work in the icefall. They used 65 ice screws, 60 to 80 ladders and more than 6000m of rope from BC to South Col. 

  Rubio reached C2 on 15 Jan. He was rescued by helicopter. He had attitude sickness. He spent two nights at hospital in Kathmandu and they found a problem with his lungs. He left Nepal on 20 Jan. 

  The first time the team reached C4 was to set up the camp there and look at the conditions. The snow conditions were great on the mountain and the weather was good all the way through the expedition; however, winds were high. When Chhiji Nurbu, Phurba, Nuri and Pemba Thinduk reached C4 on 4 Feb Rubio had already left the expedition and Txikon stopped at about 7700m to do some filming. 

  On 4 Feb, Txikon climbed from C2 to C4 [7700m?] and back to BC in 16 hours.

  On 10 Feb, Chhiji Nurbu, Chhepal and Txikon started again from BC to C2, where they spent a rest day on 11 Feb.
   
  On 12 Feb Nuri, Pemba Thinduk and Phurba climbed directly from BC to C2.

  On 13 Feb Chhiji Nurbu, Chhepal and Txikon left for C3 while the others rested at C2. 

  On 14 Feb Chhiji Nurbu, Chhepal and Txikon started from C3 for the South Col at 4:15 am – it was too windy to start earlier. Pemba Thinduk, Nuri and Phurba started from C2 to reach C4. They left at midnight and met the others at the Yellow Band. The whole team reached the South Col at 3:30 pm. They descended after about 1-1/2 hours as it was simply too windy, about 70km/h. Chhiji Nurbu, Chhepal and Txikon descended to C3, Nuri, Phurba and Pemba Thinduk to C2. They were intending to summit on this rotation, but it was too windy and the weather forecast was too bad.

  On 15 Feb, everyone back at BC and on 16 Feb the team, flew back to Kathmandu. They spent 10 nights there and Nuri and Txikon returned to BC on 2 March. The rest of the team decided that they were too tired (or injured) and did not want to carry on.

  Pasang Norbu, Pemba Thinduk and Gyalzen of the Icefall doctors joined Nuri and Txikon for a final summit attempt.

  On 7 March, the team reached C2. Pemba Thinduk, Pasang Norbu and Gyalzen left BC at 6 am. This was the day Reinhold Messner visited BC, so Nuri and Txikon stayed at BC to welcome Messner and only left at 1:30 pm to go to C2. They spent two nights at C2, but it was very windy and the forecast was bad, so on 9 March they decided to finish the expedition. 

  Even though Txikon had bought a permit for 65 days, the Nepal government decided that winter is finished on 4 March. They were told by the MoT to be back in Kathmandu no later than 8 March. They were lucky that Messner was there as he rang someone at the MoT and they allowed them to stay at BC until 16 March. 

  Fixed rope: 6000m from BC to S Col.

  Oxygen:
    Used from 7800m by all Sherpas to high point and to Yellow Band on 14 Feb
    Txikon did not use oxygen.

  Sherpas above BC (1st team):
    Chhiji Nurbu Sherpa, Makalu (with Eun-Sun Oh on Annapurna)
    Nuri Sherpa, Goli-7, Solukhumbu
    Chhepal Sherpa
    Pemba Thinduk Sherpa
    Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa (with Carlos Soria on Dhaulagiri and Annapurna)
    Phurba Sherpa (with Carlos Soria on Annapurna)

  Sherpas above BC (2nd team):
    Nuri Sherpa, Goli-7, Solukhumbu
    Dorchi (Halung Dorchi)
    Gesman Tamang
    Pasang Norbu
    Temba Bhote 

  Injuries:
    Frostbite on big toe by Chhiji Nurbu.

    Avalanche accident on 15 Feb going down from C3 Chhiji Nurbu, Chhepal and 
    Txikon encountered a rock and snow avalanche coming down from the Lhotse Face. 
    Chhepal was hit on his head and was heli-vaced from BC on 16 Feb. He was 
    admitted to hospital in Kathmandu and received some stitches on his head.


expid: URKM16101
peakid: URKM
year: 2016
route1: NNE Face-NE Ridge (up), W Ridge/Face (down)
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Philipp Buehrer
sponsor: Swiss Urkinmang Expedition 2016
approach: Langtang Valley
bcdate: 2016-04-15
smtdate: 2016-04-17
termdate: 2016-04-18
campsites: BC(15/04),Smt(17/04)
routememo:
  After a traverse of Tsergo Ri (up SW face, down N ridge), team attempted Kimshung. After 3 days of approach from Kyanjin village, the team climbed up the east flank of the South Ridge to a notch below the summit pinnacle. Following loose rock section stopped any progress so the two had to go down, reaching Kyanjin village the same day. 

  15.04.2016: established BC at a little lake between Urkinmang and Ganchempo, north of Tilman's Pass.

  17.04.2016: left at 1 am, attacking the NNE Face at 4850m. After a broad couloir with two short rock sections, at 5600m the face steepened to 75°, then the team reached the NE Ridge at 5900m, following it to the top. Went down by the W ridge/face, with a tricky 250m loose rock needing one abseil and lots of zigzaging.


expid: AMAD16360
peakid: AMAD
year: 2016
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Carole Fuchs
sponsor: French Ama Dablam Expedition 2016 (II)
approach: Namche->Phortse->Ama Dablam BC
bcdate: 2016-11-12
smtdate: 2016-11-17
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2016-11-19
campsites: BC(12/11,700m),ABC(13/11,5800m),C1(14/11,5900m),C2(16/11,6200m),Smt(17/11)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  Carole Fuchs made two attempts on Ama Dablam (early October and mid-November).

  Fuchs left C2 at 11:30 pm on 16 Nov, summited at 9:30 am, stayed 20 minutes, then returned to BC. Good weather, not cold.


expid: CHOY16320
peakid: CHOY
year: 2016
route1: NW side
nation: Romania
leaders: Adrian Laza
sponsor: Romanian Cho Oyu Expedition 2016
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2016-09-15
smtdate: 2016-09-30
smttime: 0945
termdate: 2016-10-09
campsites: BC(15/09,5700m),C1(21/09,6400m),C2(24/09,6800m),C3(29/09,7500m),Smt(30/09)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  Team left high camp at 4 am, summited at 10:30 am, then returned to C3 at 2 pm. Weather was sunny.

  Team started using oxygen at C3.


  From Romanian blog: https://maiaoutdoor.ro/blog/ionut-stefanescu-adrian-laza-si-iulian-petre-au-reusit-sa-urce-pe-varful-cho-oyu/

  The three climbers [from] Neamt peaked Cho Oyu (8201m) on September 30, building upon the window of better weather for the final attack of the ridge. For two days, the weather conditions were unfavorable climb, snow incessantly, 10 degrees in thermometers and risk of avalanches. "I went to Piatra Neamt and Romania" sent climber Ionut Stefanescu camp at 5700m, where he camped with teammates for a week because the Chinese authorities did not allow the descent until 7 October. Julian and Adrian won eight thousands on September 30 at 12.00 and reached 13.30 Ionut without supplemental oxygen.


expid: AMAD17101
peakid: AMAD
year: 2017
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Bulgaria
leaders: Tzvetelina Ignatova
sponsor: Bulgarian Ama Dablam Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2017-04-23
smtdate: 2017-05-06
termdate: 2017-05-09
termnote: Abandoned at 6200-6300m due to bad weather, bad conditions and bad cough
campsites: BC(23/04,4600m),C1(28/04,5780m),C2(03/05,6000m),xxx(06/05,6200m)
accidents: Initial onset of pulmonary edema
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  Tzvetelina Ignatova and Sange Sherpa abandoned somewhere between 6000-6200m because of bad weather conditions, crevasses and after spending 5 nights at 6000m a bad cough was developed. At the time of attempt the weather conditions were bad; it was snowing every day with regular white-outs.


expid: AMAD17102
peakid: AMAD
year: 2017
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Drew Kraus
sponsor: Team Kraus on Ama Dablam 2017
approach: Lukla->Ama Dablam BC
bcdate: 2017-04-24
smtdate: 2017-04-28
termdate: 2017-04-30
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to impassable crevasse above C2
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East
campsites: BC(24/04,4500m),C1(26/04,5600m),xxx(28/04,5900m)
agency: TAGnepal Trekking/Mountain Madness
routememo:
  We reached C2 at 5900m, but did not stay there. Climbers were Tim Kraus, Andrew Kraus and Suman Gurung. There was an impassable crevasse above C2. Weather conditions were stellar - blue skies and light winds.

  Team climbed Lobuche for acclimatization prior to attempting Ama Dablam.


expid: ANN117101
peakid: ANN1
year: 2017
route1: N Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Nives Meroi
sponsor: Nives & Romano Annapurna Expedition 2017
approach: Helicopter to and from BC
bcdate: 2017-04-01
smtdate: 2017-05-11
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2017-05-15
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
campsites:
  BC(01/04,4050m),C1(10/04,5100m),C2(17/04,5700m),C2.5(08/05,6350m),C3(09/05,6780m),C4(10/05,7150m),Smt(11/05)

routememo:
  BC   01/04  4050m
  C1   10/04  5100m
  C2   17/04  5700m
  C2.5 08/05  6350m
  C3   09/05  6780m
  C4   10/05  7150m (same camp as German route; C4 on the French route was too
                     dangerous due to serac fall)
  Smt  11/05  by Benet, Meroi at 9:30 am.

  After the acclimatization rotation on 17 Apr, they tried several times to get back to C2, but were not successful due to bad weather and too much snow. On their summit push they did not want to ascent too quickly as they had not been acclimatized properly and set up another camp at 6350m.

  On summit push they left C4 at midnight (together with the two Spaniards and two Chileans). The day was clear. A lot of snow and Romano did most of the trail breaking. Chhiring from the Chilean team had told them to take a snow couloirs on the right, but they went directly cross the rocky section. Conditions were good. They spent about half an hour on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 3 pm. The reason why they did not descend any further was that they were very tired and happy to have arrived at C4.

  On 12 May, they started to descend, but due to the bad weather, they only reached C2 at 6 pm and continued to C1, where they reached at 8:30 pm. On 13 May to BC.

  Fixed rope: 20m on serac between C2 and C2.

  Oxygen: not taken, not used.


expid: ANN117102
peakid: ANN1
year: 2017
route1: N Face
nation: Russia
leaders: Oxana Morneva
sponsor: Makalu Extreme Annapurna 1 Expedition 2017
countries: Ukraine
approach: Helicopter to BC
bcdate: 2017-03-07
smtdate: 2017-03-09
termdate: 2017-03-19
termnote: Abandoned at 5100m due to dangerous conditions and clients not willing to go alpine-style
campsites: BC(07/03,4200m),C1(09/03,5100m),xxx
accidents: Lhakpa Nuru and Lhakpa Gelu injured by serac fall at 5100m
agency: Makalu Extreme Treks
routememo:
  BC  07/03  4200m
  C1  09/03  5100m
  HPt 09/03  5100m by Morneva, Kernytsky, Mikhailenko.

  Team went to C1 with the rope-fixing Sherpas. Conditions were good on this day. They tagged C1 and returned to BC. Then three days of bad weather. On 13 March the weather improved and the Sherpas went back up to C1. Just below C1 they encountered serac fall at noon and Lhakpa Nuru and Lhakpa Gelu fell for about 300 meters. Morneva was on her way to C1 (she was about half way, near the traverse) she got a radio call from Gyalgen (brother of Lhakpa Nuru) who told her that an avalanche struck. They were able to dig them out of the avalanche. Lhakpa Nuru had a broken arm; Lhakpa Gelu had a broken leg. The other four Sherpas dragged them down and came back to BC at about 5 pm. Morneva applied some first aid. As it was so late they could not get a helicopter.

  On 14 March, the team discussed what to do and they decided to stay. On 16 April, Gyalgen, Lhakpa Tsering, Pasang Dorji and Ang Chiri (brother of Pasang Dorji) went back to C1 to collect the gear, but the conditions were very dangerous and the snow was too deep, so they decided to leave everything at C1. 

  Climb abandoned on 17 March due to dangerous conditions on the mountain and clients were not willing to go alpine-style.


expid: ANN117103
peakid: ANN1
year: 2017
route1: N Face
nation: Chile
leaders: Juan Mohr Prieto
sponsor: Chilean Annapurna Expedition 2017
approach: From near Lete by helicopter
bcdate: 2017-04-14
smtdate: 2017-05-11
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2017-05-15
agency: Top Himalaya Guides
campsites:
  BC(14/04,4050m),C1(17/04,5100m),C2(18/04,5700m),C2.5(27/04,6080m),C3(09/05,6300m),C4(10/05,7150m),Smt(11/05)

routememo:
  BC   14/04  4050m
  C1   17/04  5100m
  C2   18/04  5700m
  C2.5 27/04  6080m
  C3   09/05  6300m
  C4   10/05  7150m (same camp as German route; C4 on the French route was too
                     dangerous due to serac fall)
  Smt  11/05 by Mohr Prieta at 9:30 am, Rojas Schmidt 10 am.

  The team tried to climb the "fingers" left of the French route. They climbed from 6300m to 6850m on 9 May. They were on their summit push. They started climbing at 9:30 am and climbed in perfect conditions on about 70 degrees of ice; the last pitch was on rock. They pitched the climb. They arrived at 6850m at 5 pm and then they crossed over to meet the Spanish (Alberto Zerain) and Italian team (Nives Meroi) at C4, where they arrived at 9 pm. The others had already been at C4.
  On summit push they left C4 at midnight (together with the two Spaniards and two Italians). The day was clear. A lot of snow and they alternated at trail breaking. They did not take the French couloirs, but went directly across the rocky section. Conditions were good. They spent about an hour on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 2 pm.

  On 12 May they descended in bad weather to C2, where they arrived at 5 pm. The descent was pretty dangerous as there was a lot of snow and the avalanche danger was high.

  On 13 May everyone was at BC. Left BC 15 May by helicopter

  The team was hit by an ice avalanche on 19 April at about 6050m. Did not fall but Juan Pablo's helmet was broken and they lost their rope and their rucksack.

  Fixed rope: 250m from 6300m to 6000m on descent. 


expid: ANN117104
peakid: ANN1
year: 2017
route1: N Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Alberto Zerain
sponsor: Spanish Annapurna Expedition 2017
approach: Beni->Lete->ABC North by helicopter
bcdate: 2017-04-14
smtdate: 2017-05-11
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2017-05-15
agency: Prestige Adventure
campsites:
  BC(14/04,4050m),C1(16/04,5100m),C2(20/04,5700m),C2.5(08/05,6350m),C3(09/05,6780m),C4(10/05,7150m),Smt(11/05)

routememo:
  BC   14/04  4050m
  C1   16/04  5100m
  C2   20/04  5700m
  C2.5 08/05  6350m
  C3   09/05  6780m
  C4   10/05  7150m (C4 on German route; C4 on French route was too dangerous due
                     to serac fall)
  Smt  11/05 by Zerain, Garcia at 9:30 am.

  On summit push team left C4 at midnight (together with the two Chileans and two Italians). The day was clear. A lot of snow and they alternated breaking trail. They did not take the French couloir, but went directly up across the rocky section. Conditions were good. They spent about an hour on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 2 pm.

  On 12 May they descended in bad weather to C2, where they arrived at 5 pm. The descent was pretty dangerous as there was a lot of snow and the avalanche danger was high.

  Everybody down at BC on 13 May. Left BC on 15 May by helicopter.

  Fixed rope: at start of the wall about 100m.


expid: ANN117105
peakid: ANN1
year: 2017
route1: NW Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Felix Berg
sponsor: Annapurna I West Face Expedition 2017
countries: Canada, Poland, UK
approach: Manang->Tilicho Lake->Tilicho Peak->Helicopter from Tilicho
bcdate: 2017-05-11
smtdate: 2017-05-19
termdate: 2017-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to bad weather, spindrift, slow progress, difficult bivouacs
othersmts: Summited Tilicho (TILI-171-01)
campsites: BC(11/05,4100m),C1(17/05,5000m),Biv1(18/05,6100m),Biv2(19/05,6500m),xxx
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC   11/05  4100m
  C1   17/05  5000m (on the upper part of glacier)
  Biv1 18/05  6100m
  Biv2 19/05  6500m 
  HPt  19/05  6500m by Berg, Allen and Bielicki.

  Once they reached BC from Tilicho, the team was waiting for better weather. There was a lot of afternoon precipitation. 	

  On 17 May, they decided to go up. They left BC at 8 am, descended about 200m to 4000m crossed the river and came around the bottom of a ridge and crossed the glacier, which was heavily crevassed. There were seracs on the face in front and rock fall on the left. 

  On 18 May, they went up a huge couloir to about 55 degrees. Started off as snow and then becomes ice. They ended up cutting a ledge in the ice at the top of the couloir at 6100m. They set up their bivouac at about 6 pm, which was half on the ledge and half going down. They spent the night sitting up. Only Bielecki could sleep – he even snored! 

  The next morning the finally got away after having packed up everything. They were roped up and moved on the rope together with the leader putting in ice screws. From the top of the couloir they were going towards the right, less snow and more ice. Slow progress and it started to snow again and there was spindrift. It was worrying. It was no timmediately threatening, however, they did not know how much snow was accumulated and could potentially throw them off balance. At about 5:30 pm they were looking for a bivouac place. They found a rocky ledge, cut off the snow and put the tent on top of it. When they got in they found that it was too sloping. They put two fixed points outside the tent and secured the tent as well as themselves. They spent another uncomfortable night.

  At one point, the tent ripped on the bottom and they lost sleeping bag and sleeping mat. The next morning they debated what to do. They knew that it was technically not too hard for them and they still had 5 days' worth food and drink. Bielicki was keen to find out what the route looked like around the corner. However, they decided that they were making too slow progress, they would not make the weather window on 21 May and the weather always deteriorated in the afternoon, so they went down. 

  On 20 May they abseiled about 20 pitches on Abalakovs and down-climbed some of the sections. The took the whole day to get down to the base of the wall at about 5100m. The conditions were reasonably safe. They were very lucky though as just when they were coming off the face a big avalanche came down where they had been. They were able to pitch the tent and were actually able to sleep for a change.

  On 21 May, they took the whole day crossing the glacier and getting to BC.

  Louis Rousseau left the team on Tilicho due to lack to time to finish the expedition.


  Final Annapurna I blog by Rick Allen:

  We had successfully acclimatized on Tilicho Peak, moved to Annapurna N base camp and now everything hinged on the weather. We were really looking for an ideal "weather window" of three days of low wind at 8000m combined with little or no precipitation. Gradually, it became clear it would not be happening. We lowered our expectations and grasped at the promise of a single day of low wind followed by a day of high snow fall. We set off on Wednesday, 17th May on our pure "alpine style" attempt on the NW face of Annapurna. Alpine style is often equated with light-weight style but as we shouldered our 23kg+ packs, the lightness was difficult to appreciate. Our route, paradoxically, led us first down to the glacial lakes at the foot of the N Annapurna glacier, 200m below our base camp (4100m) before climbing slowly over boulder strewn terrain leading towards the moraines below our face. The glacier is extremely fractured and we toiled over alternating rock strewn ridges and abrupt, icy slopes separating deep fissures of crevasses before emerging onto more snowy glacier in the late afternoon. Here, as the characteristic snow shower passed, we pitched our 3 person tent on a flat spot around 5000m and caught the last rays of the evening sun.

  An hour next morning took us to the base of a huge triangular buttress and an icy couloir running up its right hand side. We crossed the bergschrund (major crevasse) which separates the glacier from face and began to climb. This was to be the last moment for the next 3 days we had flat ground the size of six boot prints under our feet. The couloir started as a snow slope but increasingly hard icy streaks predominated at an average of about 55 degrees. It was also long, longer than we had estimated and the afternoon snow showers were well developed as we approached its top. No break in the angle provided any relief for a bivouac site so we began to cut a ledge in the ice at the foot of a rock wall where we could secure the rope. Torrents of spindrift poured intermittently down the wall and during these interludes we variously crouched or hung on, alert to the possibility that a full airborne avalanche may develop. At sunset, the snow relented once more and we had a glimpse of the sun and the Eastern flanks of Dhaulagiri. Finally, we had a ledge for half a tent and we could sit in a row, belayed inside our tent fabric with a single pole keeping it off our faces with our legs hanging free. We cooked a simple meal and brewed many hot drinks before lapsing into fitful rest. Through the tiny vent we watched a clear, starlit night develop over the central Nepal Himalaya.

  Getting moving in the morning was slow as we melted more snow for hot drinks, carefully unwound our safety lines which attached everything to the wall and ourselves and packed our sacks. The icy slope slanted right from the top of the couloir and we chose to rope up from the start, one climber leading and placing ice screws as the other two followed simultaneously. Whether because of the sleepless night, the effect of two days effort or the brittle, thin ice over rock, we were moving more slowly than the day before and yet again the snowfall began and we had no-where to place a tent. The descending spin drift clouds added urgency to our search and one hour before dark we tried to make something of a sloping rock ledge at 6500m. This sloped alarmingly and gathered so much snow that at the end we were hanging in our harnesses from our belay points, shrouded in tent fabric. No question of removing our boots to change into dry socks, adding warm clothing and only with the greatest efforts by Felix did we manage to melt some snow to produce a drink. By contrast, the sitting bivouac of the previous night had been luxurious. We constantly disturbed one another as we sought to shift our positions to alter the pressure of harnesses on our bodies and shivering became almost constant. When one careless movement produced a rip in the tent ( not designed to be hung exactly like this) we suddenly had a new view of the world, through the hole in floor to the glacier far below. Things deteriorated overnight as we lost one sleeping mat to the abyss and in the morning as we began to extricate ourselves from the bivouac, one sleeping bag slipped through the cellar door and disappeared. It was an open question up to this point whether we should continue upwards or descend. On the one hand, we had climbed half the face, we had confidence we could handle the technical difficulties and we ample food and gas for several more days. However, the incessant afternoon snowfall was alarming, we had slowed on the second day and after two practically sleepless nights we were not going to accelerate. From here onwards, retreat would become much more serious and breaking through to the summit ridge would require full commitment. The loss of one member's sleeping bag tilted the argument firmly in favour of descent. Multiple nights above 6500m without a bag would be impractical, even if we could find tent sites in the steep terrain above us, which seemed unlikely.

  Nine hours, 20 rappels from "Abalakov" ice belays and several pitches of downclimbing later, we were back on the glacier, not a little relieved and glad to pitch our wounded tent on some flat snow. As we cooked up the first meal for two days, the sound of powder snow avalanches pouring down the face confirmed our decision to descend. Another full day took us back down the glacier and its moraines to the welcoming tents of base camp. Toiling back up from the glacial lakes, as the evening sleet continued, it became clear there never really was a "summit weather window".


expid: TILI17101
peakid: TILI
year: 2017
route1: N Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Felix Berg
sponsor: Annapurna I West Face Expedition 2017
countries: Canada, Poland, UK
approach: Jeep from Beshisahar to Humde, trek to Kangshar->Tilicho BC
bcdate: 2017-04-19
smtdate: 2017-05-07
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2017-05-11
othersmts: Attempted Annapurna NW Face (ANN1-171-05)
campsites: BC(19/04,5000m),IC(21/04,5700m),C1(22/04,6200m),Smt(07/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
primid: ANN117105
routememo:
  BC  19/04  5000m (northern campsite)
  IC  21/04  5700m
  C1  22/04  6200m (in a little gully)
  Smt 07/05  by Allen, Berg and Bielicki at 2:30 pm.

  The entire team set up their C1 in a little gully, spent one night up there and then descended to BC. They went back up on 27 April and spent two nights at 6200m. They had intended to summit, but the wind picked up and the forecast changed. They descended on 29 April. 

  Rousseau (high point 6200m) and Bielecki dropped down to Jomsom on 3 May. Louis left the expedition there as he was running out of time and had to go home. 

  Bielecki returns on 5 May and on 6 May the three members went to 6200m stayed the night and summited on 7 May. They left their high camp at 7 am. They were roped up for the crevasse risk. There was a lot snow and breaking trail was hard as there was a wind-blown crust. They spent the night at C2 at 5 pm and descended to BC on 8 May.

  Helicopter from Tilicho BC to Annapurna BC.


  Final Tilicho blog by Rick Allen:

  Early on 27 April we set off up Tilicho Peak again in search of acclimatisation, and in approximately 9 hours gained our crevasse, wind-tunnel, camp site on the ridge. Most of us had a bad night and we postponed pushing further until the following day. We awakened at 2.00 but the wind had gained in strength and did not relent. Finally, at 6.00 we reluctantly decided to begin the descent and were glad to reach base camp a few hours later. The following days saw repeated heavy snowfalls, totalling around a metre at base camp and we spent the time recovering and digging out our tents. The plan to acclimatise rapidly on Tilicho Peak was proving to be too optimistic. For Louis, whose available time was more limited than the rest of us, the opportunity ever to progress to the main objective on Annapurna was vanishing and on 3rd May he reluctantly descended to the village of Jomsom with the help of Adam. On 5th, Louis was able to secure a flight to Kathmandu and Adam completed the 2500m of ascent to base camp. Meanwhile, a forecasted weather window had opened and Adam moved straight on upwards the following day with Rick and Felix to the familiar crevasse at 6200m.  This time, there was no hesitation, we set off at 7.00 the following morning, moving together over soft, deep snow patches and hard neve, over crevasses, through rock bands and around seracs to reach the summit of Tilicho Peak at 14.00. Satisfied with this fine, 7134m peak, we snatched some photos as clouds built and gained a glimpse of the NW face of Annapurna, our next objective. The descent took us back to our crevasse and the following day we regained base camp.

  In theory, we were to transfer to Annapurna N base camp by helicopter the following day, 9th May, but cloud cover was too heavy and the Kathmandu valley was shrouded in rain. The trekking route to the original base camp used by the French first ascent team in 1950 is now so dangerous for porters that all expeditions now fly into this camp. The next day was little better and Felix and Adam descended to Jomsom leaving Rick with the sirdar at base camp. As luck would have it, the following day was perfect for flying and Rick guided the little red and white helicopter into land shortly after 7.30. Meanwhile, in Jomsom, Adam and Felix recognised at once the sound of the helicopter and hurried across to the helipad. ‘Have you seen a red helicopter?’ they asked. An official tried to check their documents (they had none) while they insisted all the more strongly they needed to be on the red helicopter when it landed. Meanwhile, the red helicopter had transferred all of the expedition’s baggage to Annapurna and was taking Rick and Ram to the new base camp. Other members in Jomsom, the pilot was told. Satellite SMS messages were exchanged and  the pilot agreed to pick them up. An hour later, the team was re-united under the shadow of Annapurna and a fourth flight delivered fresh food and equipment. We were finally in place.

  We were sharing the open slopes above the North Annaupurna glacier with small Italian, Spanish and Chilean teams who were all on the mountain, pushing for the summit via the 1950 French route. This period of low wind enabled the established teams to complete their ascents while the new arrivals could only look at the longer term forecast of strong (90kph) summit winds in frustration. When the successful pairs descended, their tales of avalanche risk and serac collapse confirmed the dangers associated with the classic route and re-affirmed our team’s choice of Tilicho Peak for acclimatisation.

  With our team in place and acclimatised, our chances hang on the weather in the final weeks of the pre-monsoon season. Our chosen route beckons; extremely challenging yet feasible. There will  be difficult choices for us as the available window closes and we await a break in the high winds.


expid: BURK17101
peakid: BURK
year: 2017
route1: E Couloir
nation: USA
leaders: William Burke
sponsor: Burke Khang First Ascent Expedition Spring 2017
approach: Lukla->Namche->Gokyo
bcdate: 2017-03-17
termdate: 2017-03-20
campsites: BC(17/03,5500m),xxx(6400m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Burke reached base camp and was not able to begin climbing because of weather.
  Deep snow, high winds, extreme cold and avalanche risk made it impossible to move up the mountain. The Sherpas fixed lines only to C1 (6400m).

  Sherpas:
    Naga Dorje
    Samden Bhote
    Shera Gyalzen
    Tenzing Dorje
    Lhakpa Nuru


expid: CHOY17101
peakid: CHOY
year: 2017
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Kilian Jornet
sponsor: Summits Of My Life Everest Expedition 2016
countries: Sweden
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2017-04-28
smtdate: 2017-05-07
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2017-05-08
termnote: Stopped at summit plateau
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-171-91)
campsites: BC(28/04,4900m),ABC(28/04,5700m),C1(02/05,6400m),xxx(8100m,07/05)
agency: Makalu Adventure
primid: EVER17191
routememo:
  BC  28/04  4900m
  ABC 28/04  5700m
  C1  02/05  6400m
  Smt 07/05  by Jornet at 3 pm (summit was in cloud so Jornet is not 100% sure whether he reached the right point as Everest was obviously not visible. (Billi Bierling believes that he reached the right point though as he had walked on the plateau for about 30 minutes).

  On 3 May Jornet and Forsberg reached 7500m during their first summit push, but turned back because of the weather. They returned to ABC. They rested for a couple of days and went back to C1 on 6 May.

  Jornet and Forsberg started at 1 am from 6400m. Forsberg turned back at around 7700m at 11 am. It started to snow and the Yellow Band had not been fixed and it was very icy. She felt that she could probably go up, but would struggle to come down. She descended to ABC. 

  Jornet continued and reached summit at 3 pm. He spent about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to C1, picked up the tent that Forsberg had packed up and descended to ABC, where he reached at 6:30 pm.

  Oxygen: not taken, not used.

  Note: Jornet later acknowledged to Outside Magazine that he stopped at the summit plateau as that was enough since he was training for Everest.


expid: CHOY17102
peakid: CHOY
year: 2017
route1: NW side
nation: Poland
leaders: Robert Polkowski
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Cho Oyu Expedition 2017
countries: Australia, Israel
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2017-04-18
smtdate: 2017-05-10
termdate: 2017-05-12
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to lack of rope
campsites: BC(18/04,4700m),IC(23/04,5400m),ABC(24/04,5700m),C1(27/04,6450m),xxx(10/05,6800m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  18/04  4700m
  IC  23/04  5400m                
  ABC 24/04  5700m	      
  C1  27/04  6450m                  
  HPt 10/05  6800m by Polkowski, Dawa Sherpa.

  Polkowski had not been aware of the fact that Dawa had not brought a rope and he did not want to ascend any higher without protection due to danger. Conditions were difficult, fog, snow and wind. Bad cooperation on the mountain, lack of equipment, too few Sherpas. 

  They were well-acclimatized, but they felt tired and worried. Sherpas didn't fix the ropes.

  Bar-Zion abandoned climb on 29 April. He had reached C1 on 27 April when it was very bad weather and windy. After this first acclimatization trip, he could not cope psychologically.

  Chin Tark Chan reached CBC on 20 April. He was altitude sick and left the expedition on 21 April. 

  Oxygen: taken and used at CBC by Chin Tark; other members did not use oxygen.


expid: CHOY17103
peakid: CHOY
year: 2017
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Diahanne Gilbert
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Cho Oyu Expedition 2017
countries: Australia
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2017-04-24
smtdate: 2017-05-18
termdate: 2017-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 7150m due to deep snow and client exhaustion
campsites: BC(24/04,4700m),ABC(27/04,5700m),C1(05/05,6400m),C2(18/05,7150m),xxx
agency: Makalu Adventure
routememo:
  Notes from Adventure Peaks website report (www.adventurepeaks.com/cho-oyu/)

  24 Apr - Arrived at Chinese BC (4700m) (only team at CBC).

  25 Apr - team made acclimatization walks to 5600m.

  27 Apr - team moved to ABC (5700m). Phurtemba Sherpa has made one load carry 
           to C1 (6400m).

  30 Apr - Gilbert and Squance made 1st carry to C1.

  2-4 May - Lerner and Veltman made 1st carry to C1. 
            Gilbert and Squance slept at C1.
            C1 now stocked with oxygen, tents, food.

  5-9 May - Team members have made 4 rotations to C1.
            Sherpas started fixing ropes to C2 site.
            Team members climbed to first headwall on way to C2.
            Lerner abandons climb due to lack of acclimatization.

  10-18 May - team camped at C1. Sherpas stocked C2.
              Veltman turns back due to intestinal issues. 

  19-20 May - Gilbert and Squance climb to C2 (7150m).
              Team abandons climb due to exhaustion of Squance from bad conditions
              on route from C1 to C2.


expid: DHA117101
peakid: DHA1
year: 2017
route1: NE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Guy Cotter
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Dhaulagiri I Expedition 2017
countries: Australia, Colombia, France, India, Poland, Singapore, UK, USA
approach: Drive Beni to Khare
bcdate: 2017-04-25
smtdate: 2017-05-22
smttime: 0515
termdate: 2017-05-26
campsites: BC(25/04,4750m),C1(03/05,5750m),C1.5(05/05,6200m),C2(21/05,6400m),C3(21/05,7450m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC   25/04  4750m
  C1   03/05  5750m
  C1.5 05/05  6200m  (only on first rotation)
  C2   13/05  6400m
  C3   21/05  7450m
  Smt  22/05  by Cotter at 5:15 am, Bradey, Staples, Smolokowska, Lopez, Adams, Fox,
              Garrood, Doshi and all Sherpas listed below between 5:45 am and 6 am;
              Chandesris at 7 am (without O2). 

  Summit team left C3 at 10 pm on 21 May. At about 11 pm, they found an Indian climber sitting on a rock at 7650m suffering from severe frostbite. They called down to their doctor Sara, who then went to the Indian team to tell them that there was a lost Indian up on the mountain. 

  Straightforward climb. They stayed on the summit for about one hour, and started their descent. At 9:30 am, they reached the Indian in distress again. He must have had HACE as he had taken off his clothes. Cotter injected some dexamethasone and together with Pemba, Tenji and Nima lowered him down to C3, which took them about 1-1/2 hours. Indian stayed with them for about 1 hour and then the Sherpas from the Indian team came and picked him up.

  After a short break, everyone descended from C3 to C2, where they arrived at 4 pm, apart from Cotter and Fox, who arrived at 6:30 pm. Fox was suffering from a severe asthma attack. It did not get better and she was evacuated by heli to Kathmandu on 24 May. On 23 May all BC. 

  Ong, Leow and Grover reached 6500m. Ong was suffering from the effects of altitude. Leow was his friend and decided to abandon the expedition with him. Grover went home for personal reasons. 

  Additional info:

  When the team arrived at C3, Santiago Quintero from Ecuador was sick and on his way down. Cotter gave him dexamethasone. When they reached C3, two Indians came through the camp. They had left on 19 May and were still up there on 21 May. The team gave them fluids and oxygen and shelter. Some Sherpas were coming up to collect them and they descended.

  One of the Indian teams also lost a Sherpa. He went missing and was seen by the helicopter pilot below the traverse. He must have fallen off a substantial cliff. 

  5 oxygen bottles from C3 went missing on the expedition.

  Doshi is the first Singaporean to climb Dhaulagiri I. Cotter, Staples and Bradey are the first New Zealanders.

  Fixed rope: from C2 to C3.

  Oxygen:
    Not taken, not used by Pemba, Chandesris
    Used from 7100m to top to C3 by members; C3 to top to C3 by Sherpas.

  Summit Sherpas:
    Pemba Sherpa (also goes by Prakash)
    Tsering Namgyal Sherpa 
    Nima Sherpa, Solu (also climbed Dhaulagiri with AC in 2016)
    Pasang Sherpa, Sankhuwasava (also climbed Dhaulagiri with AC in 2016)
    Mingma Thindu Sherpa 
    [Phurba] Dorjee Sherpa 
    Chhiring Sherpa
    Dawa Sherpa, Sankhuwasava
    Da Pasang Sherpa 
    Dawa Tenji Sherpa


expid: DHA117102
peakid: DHA1
year: 2017
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Mingma Gyalje Sherpa
sponsor: Dreamers Destinations Dhaulagiri Expedition 2017
countries: China, Turkey
bcdate: 2017-04-07
smtdate: 2017-04-30
smttime: 1215
termdate: 2017-05-02
campsites: BC(07/04,4800m),C1(09/04,5800m),C2(6400m),C3(28/04,7300m),Smt(30/04)
agency: Dreamers Destination Treks
routememo:
  BC  07/04  4800m
  C1  09/04  5800m
  C2         6400m
  C3  28/04  7300m
  Smt 30/04  by Mingma Gyalje, Hong-Juan Dong, Yong-Zhong Liu, Nga Tashi, 
             Lhakpa Nuru at 12:15 pm.	

  On 29 April, Mingma Gyalje, Nga Tashi, Lhakpa Nuru and Kesab Gurung fixed the rope to 7600m. They worked for about four hours and then returned to C3.

  On summit push, team left C3 at 10:30 pm. Up to 7800m conditions Ok, then a lot of snow. From 7600m Sherpas fixed ropes again to 7900m – after that no need. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to C3, where they reached about 6 pm. On 1 May all back at BC

  Irmak reached BC on 7 April. He got altitude sick and left 10 April.

  Fixed rope: 3800m

  Oxygen:
    Not taken, not used by Mingma Gyalje
    Taken and used by Nga Tashi, Lhakpa Nuru, Hong-Juan Dong, Yong-Zhong Liu.


expid: DHA117103
peakid: DHA1
year: 2017
route1: NE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Arjun Singh Negi
sponsor: ITBP (Indo-Tibetan Border Police) Mt. Dhaulagiri I Expedition 2017
approach: Ktm to Beni by road, trekked to BC
bcdate: 2017-04-04
smtdate: 2017-05-19
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2017-05-26
campsites: BC(04/04,4660m),C1(07/04,5800m),C2(12/04,6600m),C3(19/05,7300m),Smt(19-20/05)
accidents: Devendra Singh frostbite at both hands
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  BC  04/04  4660m
  C1  07/04  5800m
  C2  12/04  6600m
  C3  19/05 ~7300m (on descent)
  Smt 19/05  by Pradeep Panwar, Sanjay Singh, RS Sonal, Pradeep Kumar, Nurbu Wangdus,
             Ngima Tendi Sherpa, Ramesh Tamang, Darinje Sherpa, Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa 
             at 1 pm.
  Smt  20/05 by Krishan Prasad Gurung, Pem Dorje Sherpa at 2:30 pm (according to 
             summiteers list provided by Satish: 5:30 pm).

  Team commenced expedition by bus on 25 March from Kathmandu to Beni. They reached BC on 4 April. Luggage was flown to BC by helicopter. Heavy storm on 6/7 April. Team started to open a route from BC on 11 April. 

  On 18 May they started from C2 at 5 am, they reached C3 at 11:30 am, at 8:30 pm the same day they left C3 headed for the summit. Summiters got to the top at 1 pm on 19 May. Weather was Ok before noon, but worsened in the afternoon. They stayed on the summit for 30 minutes. Some climbers descended to C3, some to C2.

  The other team started their summit push from C3 on 19 May at 9 pm. Krishan Prasad (Gurung) and Pem Dorje Sherpa reached the summit. Team got back to C3 at night in bad weather. 

  Devendra Singh turned around before the summit, he was not able to get back to C3 on his own. Sherpas helped him down to C3 on 22 May. On 23 May he was rescued from lower C3 by helicopter long-line to BC and then on to Kathmandu.

  Left BC 26 May trekking to Marpha

  Fixed rope: Intermittent from BC to summit (Negi was not sure about parts with fixed ropes) 

  Oxygen: taken and used by members and Sherpas from C3 to high points and down to C3.


  From Indian media reports:

  Biman Biswas and Narender Kumar abandoned their summit bid at 8000m to assist Krishan Prasad Gurung who was found sick and dizzy in descent from the summit. All three went missing for 50 hours in their descent and were finally evacuated by helicopter when they reached base camp. All suffered severe injuries.


expid: DHA117104
peakid: DHA1
year: 2017
route1: NE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Ramesh Chandra Tripathi
sponsor: Indian Air Force Dhaulagiri Expedition 2017
approach: Ktm to Beni by road, trekked to BC
bcdate: 2017-04-26
smtdate: 2017-05-19
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2017-05-25
campsites: BC(26/04,4660m),C1(02/05,5800m),C2(03/05,6600m),C3(21/05,7300m),Smt(19-20/05)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  BC  26/04  4660m
  C1  02/05  5800m
  C2  03/05  6600m
  C3  21/05  7300m (team A on descent)
  Smt 19/05  by Pemba Sherpa (while fixing ropes to the summit) at 1 pm.
  Smt 20/05  by Jagvinder Pal Singh Raina, Kevin Nishant Joseph, Ravinder, 
             Mingma Dorchi Sherpa, Ang Ngima Sherpa, Dorji Sherpa at 5:30 pm.

  Team A: Kevin Nishani Joseph, Jhumar Ram Poonia, Ravinder, Jagvinder Pal Singh Raina, Jayveer Singh

  Team B: Devidutta Panda, Namit Rawat, Raghvendra Singh Gaur, Kari Hari Dikshit, Rajika Sharma, Tariq Bashir Tantry

  Expedition consisted of 2 teams, team A (5 clients) and team B (6 clients). Both teams had problems with their oxygen bottles and masks, some masks broke down. Team A left C3 on 19 May  at 11 pm for summit bid; they wanted to start earlier but were delayed by strong winds. Jhumar Ram Poonia and Jayveer Singh could not go for the summit because their top out mask systems failed to work. The rest of team A ascended together with Indian ITBP team. Summiteers got to the top at 5:30 pm on 20 May. They stayed on the summit for 20 minutes. Conditions were bad, strong winds, stormy. They reached C3 not before 4:30 pm on 21 May with the help of Devidutta Panda of team B. Ang Ngima Sherpa while returning from the summit became hypothermic and fell to his death from 7900m. All climbers were totally exhausted. On 22 May they went down to C2, on 23 May to BC. Kevin Nishant Joseph was evacuated from C2 to Kathmandu by helicopter because of frostbite. He has been hospitalized in Delhi and is likely to lose some of his fingers.

  Rajika Sharma, Kari Hari Dikshit and Raghvendra Singh Gaur of team B decided not to have a push for the summit because of adverse weather conditions. They turned around at C3. Devi Dutta Panda ascended from C3 to 7600m to help the troubled climbers of team A come down to C3.

  Fixed rope: Intermittent. Rope-fixing team got stuck in bad weather for 3-4 nights at C3. No fixed rope at steep traverse.

  Oxygen: taken and used by clients and Sherpas from C3 to respective high points and down to C3.

accidents:
  Ang Ngima Sherpa while returning from the summit became hypothermic and fell to his death from 7900m


expid: DHA117105
peakid: DHA1
year: 2017
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Slovakia
leaders: Peter Hamor
sponsor: Himalaya Adventure 2017
approach: Helicopter to BC
bcdate: 2017-04-13
smtdate: 2017-05-15
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2017-05-22
othersmts: Attempted Pumori (PUMO-171-01)
campsites: BC(13/04,4800m),C1(16/04,5700m),C2(17/04,6400m),C3(14/05,7300m),Smt(15/05)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  BC  13/04  4800m
  C1  16/04  5700m
  C2  17/04  6400m
  C3  14/05  7300m
  Smt 15/05  by Hamor, Sabovcik at 1 pm.

  Summit team left C3 at midnight. Windy but clear. Straightforward climb. They spent about half an hour on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at 6:30 pm. On 16 May down to BC.

  Gabriz reached 7900m. He did not join the first summit push as he was not feeling well (he had a chest infection). He left BC for his summit push on 17 May. On 19 May, he started from C3 at midnight. He was close to the summit couloirs at 10 am, when all of a sudden he lost strength and energy. He tried to rest for a while, but he had nothing left and descended to C1. Visibility was very low on his descent. He got lost, but finally found C1 at 8:30 using his GPS. 

  Petrik reached 6500m (C2) on 25 April. He had a back pain and stayed at BC for the rest of the expedition.

  Oxygen: not taken, not used.


expid: DHA117108
peakid: DHA1
year: 2017
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Iran
leaders: Parvaneh Kazemi
sponsor: Butterfly on Dhaulagiri
countries: UK
approach: By road to Darbang, trekked to Dobang->Italian BC->Dhaulagiri BC
bcdate: 2017-04-20
smtdate: 2017-05-19
smttime: 1530
termdate: 2017-05-23
campsites: BC(20/04,4600m),C1(23/04,5700m),C2(14/05,6500m),C3(16/05,7300m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Alpine Sherpa Guide Treks (Seven Summit Treks pmt)
routememo:
  BC  20/04  4600m
  C1  23/04  5700m
  C2  14/05  6500m
  C3  16/05  7300m
  Smt 19/05  by Kazemi, Pennington, Lhakpa Tenji at 3:30 pm.

  The team stayed at C3 for two nights as there were no fixed ropes. On 18 May they left C3 at 11 pm, following the fixing Sherpas. At 7800m the fixing group stopped and said they were finished. The leader of the rope fixing Sherpa told Kazemi that he had already been to the summit twice and that he was finished.

  The team followed the Indian team (ITBP team), who dropped a 60m rope. Kazemi decided to take the rope, which they fixed at below the couloir at about 8050m. In the couloir they used the old fixed rope. 

  They spent about half an hour on the summit and descended to C3, where they arrived at 9 pm (Kazemi) and 7 pm (Pennington).

  When Kazemi arrived at C3, her tent had been moved (probably by Indian Air Force) and was broken. She and Hadi Sattar Fourugh (Iranian – other ON Return) spent a cold night in their broken tent.

  On 20 May they descended to C2, where they spent the day and on 21 May to BC.

  Oxygen:	
    Taken and used from 7600m to top to 7600m by Kazemi and Lhakpa Tenji
    From 7000m to top to 7000m by Pennington.


expid: DHA117106
peakid: DHA1
year: 2017
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Carlos Soria
sponsor: Correos Dhaulagiri Expedition Spring 2017
approach: By road to Marpha->Yak Kharka->Hidden Valley
bcdate: 2017-04-15
smtdate: 2017-05-21
termdate: 2017-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to exhaustion of Soria
campsites: BC(15/04,4600m),C1(21/04,5700m),C2(18/05,6500m),C3(20/05,7300m),xxx(21/05,7800m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  15/04  4600m
  C1  21/04  5700m 
  C2  18/05  6500m
  C3  20/05  7300m
  Hpt 21/05  7800m  by Soria, Lopez, Carcavilla, Ming Temba (Mikel) Sherpa, 
                    Sange Sherpa, Dawa Sherpa

  Before the summit push, the team spent three time two nights at C1 for acclimatization. They wanted to spend more time at C1 as C2 was so dangerous.

  On summit push, team left C3 at 9:30 pm. The weather was good, a little bit of wind and some fresh snow on the ground. The reached their hight point at about midnight, but Carlos Soria did not have enough energy to go up. He had been sick the previous 5 days and only ate rice and water. He thought he would not have enough energy to come back down again. 

  They descended to C3, had a rest, packed up and descended to C2, where they arrived at about 2 pm. On 22 May back to BC. Left BC 24 May by heli.

  Fixed rope: 2 Sherpas part of fixing team

  Oxygen: Taken and used by C3 to high point to C3 by membes and Sherpas.


expid: DHA117110
peakid: DHA1
year: 2017
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Chile
leaders: Rodrigo Vivanco
sponsor: Expedition Chilena 2017 Dhaulagiri
approach: By road to Beni; trekked to BC
bcdate: 2017-04-22
smtdate: 2017-05-25
smttime: 1730
termdate: 2017-05-29
campsites: BC(22/04,4700m),C1(01/05,5600m),C2(07/05,6400m),C3(22/05,7300m),C4(25/05,7800m),Smt(25/05)
accidents: Both climbers having slight frostbite at toes; Munoz some windburn on her face.
agency: Adventure Geo Treks
routememo:
  BC  22/04  4700m
  C1  01/05  5600m
  C2  07/05  6400m
  C3  22/05  7300m
  C4  25/05  7800m (only on descent) 
  Smt 25/05  by Vivanco, Munoz Ubilla at 5:30 pm.

  Vivanco, Munoz Ubilla started from C3 at 4:30 am on summit push. They had planned on starting earlier, but it was too windy and foggy. Conditions were unfavourable, a lot of rain/snow, cloudy, the monsoon was approaching. They stayed on the summit for a very short time, didn't take any pictures because of bad weather and no visibility. They descended to improvised C4 which was set up earlier by Japanese climbers at 7800m. They reached C4 at 10 pm. Next day on 26 May they descended from C4 to BC. 

  They were carrying a rope as they were not sure how much fixed rope there would be. According to them, they only found the way to the summit because of rope fixed by previous expeditions. Just two days before ropes were fixed through summit couloir. Without the fixed rope, they wouldn't have made it because no visibility. The trail was littered with garbage left by Indian teams, also marking the way to the summit.

  Fixed rope: intermittent from BC to C1, from C2 to end of summit couloir.

  Oxygen: not taken not used.


expid: DHA117109
peakid: DHA1
year: 2017
route1: NE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Dipankar Ghosh
sponsor: West Bengal Dhaulagiri Expedition 2017
approach: Pokhara to Beni->Takam, Heli to Italian BC
bcdate: 2017-04-14
smtdate: 2017-05-20
smttime: 1612
termdate: 2017-05-23
campsites: BC(14/04,4650m),C1(22/04,5600m),C2(06/05,6500m),C3(19/05,7430m),Smt(20/05)
accidents: Ghosh frostbite both hands and left toe
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal (Seven Summit Treks pmt)
routememo:
  BC  14/04  4650m
  C1  22/04  5600m 
  C2  06/05  6500m 
  C3  19/05  7430m
  Smt 20/05  by Ghosh and Bir Kaji Tamang.
   
  Ghosh and Bir Kaji Tamang after having six hours rest, left 3 at 10:19 pm on 19 May and reached summit at 4:12 pm on 20 May. They spent 20 minutes on the summit, then started descending. When they reached at the bottom of main couloirs Ghosh heard that somebody is asking for water and a tent. That was one of the climbers of ITBP Biman Biswas. The weather was bad and getting late too. For a moment Ghosh could not decide what to do. His Sherpa was asking him to leave the person and to move down. But Ghosh decided to help Biswas and told him to move along with him, but he was very exhausted and completely disoriented. Somehow Ghosh managed to bring down Biswas to C3 and handed him over to the Sherpa inside the tent. It was 5 pm on 21 May. On the summit ahead of Ghosh there Migel, one Slovak, Pedro's team, Maria and Sherpa, Lakpa, Kazi and Ghosh was the last one.

  Fixed rope: Contributed 100m rope plus bonus amount.

  Oxygen: C3 to smt to C3; Sherpa from 7800m to smt to 7800m.

  Accidents: frostbite both hands and left toe while rescuing a climber from ITBP Biman Biswas who was stuck at 8000m starting point of couloir without oxygen and water.


expid: AMAD17103
peakid: AMAD
year: 2017
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Monika Nindl
sponsor: Austrian Ama Dablam Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla->Pangboche
bcdate: 2017-05-05
smtdate: 2017-05-08
termdate: 2017-05-10
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(05/05,4600m),C1(07/05,6000m),xxx(08/05,6200m)
agency: Nima Dorje (Snowy Horizons pmt)
routememo:
  BC  05/05  4600m
  C1  07/05  6000m approx
  Hpt 08/05  6200m approx by Nindl, Nima Dorje and Mingmar Tamang

  On 8 May Nindl, Nima and Mingmar tried to go to C2, but due to heavy snow conditions they had to turn around from about 6200m.

  Fixed rope: None (used what was already there).


expid: AMAD17104
peakid: AMAD
year: 2017
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Haider Navi
sponsor: Swiss Ama Dablam Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2017-04-11
smtdate: 2017-04-17
termdate: 2017-04-21
termnote: Abandoned due to lack of fixed rope above C2
campsites: BC(11/04,4600m),C1(16/04,5600m),C2(17/04,6000m),xxx
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  Navi and Sherpa Tapchen went up to C2. There was no rope fixed above this point. Sherpas said that it is too dangerous to go up. So the climb was aborted. Navi was upset about the system on the mountain, there was not enough manpower and also no coordination among the teams at the BC.


expid: KANG17101
peakid: KANG
year: 2017
route1: SW Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Lakpa Sherpa
sponsor: Himalayan Ascent Kangchenjunga Expedition 2017
countries: Australia, USA
bcdate: 2017-04-14
smtdate: 2017-05-16
termdate: 2017-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 8070m due to lack of rope
campsites: BC(14/04,5500m),C1(22/04,6200m),C2(04/05,6400m),C3(07/05,6900m),C4(15/04,7300m),xxx(16/05,8070m)
agency: Himalayan Ascent
routememo:
  Good conditions, though deep snow at times, some gnarly crevasses to jump over. Very windy.

  Our team led most of the route fixing on the mountain, with assistance from other teams. We used about 8500m in total.

  This mountain requires good team co-operation. We had from all teams until the last push, when one team (not us) decided to do something unexpected, causing all not to summit. A lesson in teamwork.


expid: KANG17102
peakid: KANG
year: 2017
route1: SW Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Simone Moro
sponsor: Kangchenjunga-Yalung Kang Traverse 2017
approach: Helicopter to BC
bcdate: 2017-04-14
smtdate: 2017-05-09
termdate: 2017-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 7350m due to Moro's illness and unstable weather
othersmts: Originally planned for Yalung Kang
campsites: BC(14/04,5500m),C1(24/04,6140m),C2(25/04,6250m),C3(02/05,6600m),C4(09/05,7350m),xxx
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Initial plan: Yalung Khang (new route) and traverse to Kangchenjunga, acclimatize on Kangch normal route. Go to Kangchenjnga C1, then go left, cross Japanese 1973 route and summit Yalung Kang West, go to Yalung Kang Main, then ridge to Kangchenjunga.

  BC  14/04  5500m by heli
  C1  24/04  6140m
  C2  25/04  6250m
  C3  02/05  6600m (lower than usual C3)
  C4  09/05  7350m by Moro, Lunger (high point).

  Team never got the possibility to start with their original plan up the Yalung Kang ridge. Moro had bad feelings about the route and they decided to acclimatize on the normal route and then see how they were going.

  They did not use the first window of 16 May as there were too many people were on the route. 

  First summit push 22 May: they reached 7000m, but Moro felt sick and vomited. The weather was very good and it was very hot (about 37C) and they went back down to BC. On 23 May they rested at BC.

  On 24 May, they went back up again for another summit push as weather forecast was good. They reached C3 on 24 May. On 25 May, they intended to go to C4 but at about 7100m Moro was feeling sick again and they descended to BC. They took their tents down on the descent. It was snowing and no visibility. They left BC on 27 May by helicopter.

  During the whole climb, they had their initial idea of the traverse in mind.

  Defrancesco reached about 5800m. He was never intending to climb.

  According to Moro Kangchenjunga has one of the dirtiest basecamps he has ever seen.


expid: KANG17103
peakid: KANG
year: 2017
route1: SW Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Maya Sherpa
sponsor: First Nepalese Women's Kangchenjunga Expedition 2017
approach: Trekked to Ramche, helicopter to BC
bcdate: 2017-04-17
smtdate: 2017-05-16
termdate: 2017-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to lack of fixed rope and depleted provisions
campsites: BC(17/04,5500m),C1(28/04,6140m),C2(29/04,6200m),C3(14/05,6900m),C4(15/05,7300m),xxx(16/05,8100m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  17/04  5500m
  C1  28/04  6140m
  C2  29/04  6200m
  C3  14/05  6900m
  C4  15/05  7300m
  HPt 16/05  8100m by Pasang Lhamu, Dawa Yangzum, Maya Sherpa.

  When the team arrived at C4, there was no tent set up for them. They had to wait for Pasang Tenji to arrive with the tent (he was very slow). He only arrived at 8 pm. For this reason, the team left later than the other climbers for their summit attempt.

  High point team and Tenji, Pasang Tenji and Tashi left C4 at 11:30 pm on 15 May. Most of the other climbers were in front of them and they overtook them after a few hours. Pasang Tenji did not feel well and turned back at about 1 am. He descended to C4 and stayed in the tent. 

  When they reached the high point at about 9:30 am they were debating whether to carry on in alpine-style; however, Maya Sherpa thought it would not be a good idea as other people would have followed and then there could have been a disaster. At about 10 am they turned back.

  When they came down from the high point, Pasang Lhamu and Dawa went back to BC while Maya Sherpa went to her tent and found Pasang Tenji, who was still very unwell. She spent the night with him. The next day on 17 May, they left C4 to go down. Pasang Tenji was unable to walk on his own and Maya, Tashi and Naoko Watanabe and Gyalgen dragged him down to C3. They arrived there at 6 pm and two SST Sherpas came up to help Pasang Tenji down. They all continued to BC, where they arrived at 10 pm. 

  On 18 May Pasang Tenji was evacuated by helicopter and taken to Norvic hospital. 

  At BC, the team was discussing whether to wait for another summit window; however the weather did not look so good and all their supplies (food, oxygen, epi gas) were gone. So decided to abandon the expedition.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C4 to high point to C4 by members and Sherpas.


expid: KANG17104
peakid: KANG
year: 2017
route1: SW Face
nation: India
leaders: Arjun Vajpai
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Kangchenjunga Expedition 2017
countries: China, Germany, Ireland, Israel, Japan, Poland, S Korea, Singapore, Switzerland
bcdate: 2017-01-14
smtdate: 2017-05-16
termdate: 2017-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 8010m due to lack of fixed rope
campsites: BC(14/04),C1(6140m),C2(),C3(6900m),C4(15/05,7300m),xxx(16/05,8010m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Seven Summit Treks Kangchenjunga expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Seven Summits provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Swee Chiow Khoo (Singapore)

  Appr:  Heli to Tseram (3850m), then 3 days trek to BC
  Camps: BC(19/04,5200m),C1(6140m),C2(23/04,6350m),C3(14/05,6950m)
         C4(15/05,7300m),xxx(16/05,8010m)
  Left:  20/05/2016 by helicopter
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 8010m due to lack of fixed rope

  On summit push, Khoo left C4 at 10:15 pm on 15 May. There were about 30 people on the route. Three Sherpas from Himalayan Ascent were fixing the ropes. When they reached 8010m at 9 am the Sherpas had run out of fixed rope. Discussions were going on about what to do and about 10 am they started to descend. They descended to C2, where he reached at 6 pm. On 17 May, back to BC.

  The problem was that Nuri had already known that they did not have enough rope.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from 7300m to high point to 7300m by Khoo.


  Noel Hanna (UK)
  Sophie Lavaud (Switzerland)

  Appr:  Heli to Ramche, then 3 days trek to BC
  Camps: BC(19/04,5500m),C1(6140m),C2(30/04,6200m),C3(07/05,6900m)
         C4(15/05,7300m),xxx(16/05,8010m)
  Left:  27/05/2016 by helicopter
  Term:  Abandoned at 8010m due to lack of fixed rope

  On summit push, Hanna and Lavaud left C4 at 10 pm on 15 May. There were about 30 people on the route. Three Sherpas from Himalayan Ascent were fixing the ropes. When they reached 8010m at 9 am the Sherpas had run out of fixed rope. Discussions were going on about what to do and about 10 am they started to descend. They descended to BC, where they arrived at 8 pm.

  Most climbers left BC on around 20 May, but Hanna, Lavaud, Vajpai and Yehuda stayed at BC hoping for another summit attempt on 26 or 27 May. The Seven Summit Sherpas said that they were not going back up again unless they would be paid. The Sherpas also said that the three Sherpa women (Pasang Lhamu, Dawa and Maya Sherpa) had told them that they would not get paid a summit bonus if they went back up with the other group.

  The remaining climbers never left BC after that first summit attempt.

  Lavaud's Sherpa Nima Tshering did not feel well and got to C2 on 30 April. He felt sick at C2, went down on 2 May together with Lavaud, and left the expedition by heli on 3 May. Na Dorji, who was with Hanna, then climbed with Lavaud for the rest of the expedition. 

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from 7300m to high point to 7300m by Hanna and Lavaud.

  Sherpas:
    Nima Tshering
    Nga Dorji


  Herbert Hellmuth (Germany)

  Appr:  Heli to Ramche, then 3 days trek to BC
  Camps: BC(19/04,5500m),C1(6140m),C2(30/04,6200m),C3(07/05,6900m)
         C4(15/05,7300m),xxx(16/05,8010m)
  Left:  18/05/2016 by helicopter
  Term:  Abandoned at 8010m due to lack of fixed rope

  On summit push, Hellmuth left C4 at 10 pm on 15 May. There were about 30 people on the route. Three Sherpas from Himalayan Ascent were fixing the ropes. When they reached 8010m at 9 am the Sherpas had run out of fixed rope. Discussions were going on about what to do and about 10 am they started to descend. They descended to BC, where they arrived at 8 pm.

  Hellmuth very upset as it was the perfect summit day; however, the snow was very deep on the way up.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from 7300m to high point to 7300m by Nuri and Hellmuth.

  Sherpas:
    Nuri Sherpa


  Violetta Pontinen (Poland)

  Appr:  Trek to Tseram (3850m), then helicopter to BC
  Camps: BC(15/04,5500m),C1(29/04,6140m),C2(30/04,6350m),C3(14/05,6950m)
         C4(15/05,7300m),xxx(16/05,8010m)
  Left:  20/05/2016 by helicopter
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 8010m due to lack of fixed rope

  On summit push, Pontinen left C4 at 10:15 pm on 15 May. There were about 30 people on the route. Three Sherpas from Himalayan Ascent were fixing the ropes. When they reached 8010m at 9 am the Sherpas had run out of fixed rope. Discussions were going on about what to do and about 10 am they started to descend. She descended to C2, where she arrived at about 6 pm. On 17 May down to BC, where she arrived at about 10 am.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from 7300m to high point to 6500m by Pontinen.


  Arjun Vajpai (India)

  Appr:  Trek to Tseram (3850m), then helicopter to BC
  Camps: BC(16/04,5425m),C1(6140m),C2(20/04,6130m),xxx
  Left:  27/05/2016 by helicopter
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 6130m due to high winds

  Vajpai decided not to join the summit push on 16 May as he did not want to follow the rope-fixing team. He wanted to wait for the second weather window, which never arrived.

  Oxygen: Taken, not used

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Norbu (summited Makalu with Vajpai)


  Naoko Watanabe (Japan)

  Appr:  Trek to Tseram (3850m), then helicopter to BC
  Camps: BC(16/04,5425m),C1(6140m),C2(26/04,6130m),C3(05/05,6915m),
         C4(15/05,7300m),xxx(16/05,8010m)
  Left:  22/05/2016 by helicopter
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 8010m due to lack of fixed rope

  On summit push, Watanabe left C4 at midnight with Gyalje Sherpa. There were about 30 people on the route. Three Sherpas from Himalayan Ascents were fixing the ropes. When they reached 8010m at 9 am the Sherpas had run out of fixed rope. Discussions were going on about what to do and about 10 am she started to descend. She descended to C4, where she arrived in the afternoon. On 17 May, back to BC.

  Pasang Tenji Sherpa (Sherpa of Pasang Lamu Sherpa) was very sick during the summit push. He only ascended for one hour and turned back to C4. And stayed there the whole night without drink and food. On 17 May, the team dragged him down. 

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to high point to C4 by Watanabe.

  Sherpa:
    Gyalje (icefall doctor on winter expedition with Alex Txikon).


  Nadav Ben Yehuda (Israel)

  Appr:  Trekked to Ramche, then helicopter to BC
  Camps: BC(16/04,5500m),C1(23/04,6140m),C2(24/04,6200m),C3(14/05,6900m)
         C4(15/05,7300m),xxx(16/05,8010m)
  Left:  20/05/2016 by helicopter
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 8010m due to lack of fixed rope

  On summit push, Ben Yehuda left C4 at 10 pm on 15 May. There were about 30 people on the route. Three Sherpas from Himalayan Ascent were fixing the ropes. When they reached 8010m at 9 am the Sherpa had run out of fixed rope. Discussions were going on about what to do and about 10 am they started to descend. 

  While everyone else of the other climbers went down, Ben Yehuda descended to C4, where he arrived at noon. He stayed up there one night without oxygen to acclimatize. On 17 May, he descended to C2. He bumped into some Sherpas coming up who were rescuing a young Sherpa, who was sick between C4 and C3.

  On 17 May he stayed C2 and on 18 may he went back to BC. He stayed at BC hoping for another summit push bit it never happened due to the Sherpas as they refused to go back up without getting paid.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from 7300m to high point tby Ben Yehuda.

  Agent: Satori (Seven Summit Treks permit)


expid: MAKA17101
peakid: MAKA
year: 2017
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Phil Crampton
sponsor: Altitude Junkies Makalu Expedition 2017
countries: Australia, France, Guatemala, S Africa, USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pheriche, helicopter to BC
bcdate: 2017-04-17
smtdate: 2017-05-10
termdate: 2017-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 8450m due to lack of fixed ropes to true summit
campsites: BC(17/04,4800m),ABC(20/04,5600m),C1(27/04,6400m),C2(02/05,6600m),C3(08/05,7450m),xxx(10/05,8450m)
agency: Expedition Himalaya
routememo:
  BC  17/04  4800m
  ABC 20/04  5600m
  C1  27/04  6400m (above the headwall)	
  C2  02/05  6600m
  C3  08/05  7450m
  HPt 10/05  8450m by Crampton, Callahan, Laura Darlington, Benjamin Darlington,
             Pasang Ongchu, Kami Nuru, Karma Gyalzen, Pasang Nima, Pemba Chhiri
             at 10 am.

  High point team left C3 at 10 pm on 9 May. Snow in the French Couloirs was knee-deep and rope was fixed. When they got to the end of the French Couloirs, they were not sure whether that was the summit or not. They stopped as there were no fixed ropes as as the last section would have been too dangerous.

  They spent about half an hour on their fore-summit and descended to ABC, where they arrived between 2 pm and 6 pm. 

  Carstens left on 25 April. His highest point was ABC. He had got a ham-string injury going from BC to ABC.

  Gernez only got to ABC. He did not feel good and left 30 April by helicopter. 

  Padilla del Aguila reached about 7100m on 8 May. She was too slow to get to the Makalu La and decided to abandon the expedition. She descended to ABC.

  Fixed rope: 4,800m from C1 to fore-summit.

  Oxygen: taken and used from C3 to high pt to C3 by members and Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Ongchu Sherpa, Bung-9, Solukhumbu, 24/04/1978
    Kami Nuru Sherpa, Chaurikharka-2, Solukhumbu, 26/08/1985
    Karma Gyalzen Sherpa, Taksindu-7, Solukhumbu
    Pasang Nima Sherpa, Chaurikharka-2, Solukhumbu, 28/01/1974
    Pemba Chhiri Sherpa, Pawai-2, Solukhumbu


expid: MAKA17102
peakid: MAKA
year: 2017
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Mingma Gyalje Sherpa
sponsor: Dreamers Destinations Makalu Expedition 2017
countries: China
approach: Helicopter to ABC
bcdate: 2017-05-08
smtdate: 2017-05-11
smttime: 1018
termdate: 2017-05-13
othersmts: Summited Dhaulagiri I (DHA1-171-02)
campsites: ABC(08/05,5600m),C1(08/05,6430m),C2(09/05,7200m),C3(10/05,7400m),Smt(11/05)
agency: Dreamers Destination Treks
routememo:
  ABC  08/05  5600m
  C1   08/05  6430m
  C2.5 09/05  7200m on snowfield between rockbands
  C3   10/05  7400m
  Smt  11/05  by Mingma Gyalje (10:18 am), Dong and Nga Tashi at 10:48 am.

  Team left C3 at 9:30 pm on 10 May. They were intending to leave at 8 pm but winds where to high. There was fixed rope in the couloirs up to about 8445m. Mingma fixed about 80m of rope toward the summit, which had not been fixed. On the ridge toward the summit they used partially old ropes. They spent about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to C3, where they arrived at 6:30 pm.

  On 12 May to ABC and left 13 May by helicopter from Hillary BC (4800m).

  This team summited Dhaulagiri I on 30 April prior to arriving at Makalu ABC.

  Oxygen: 
    Not taken, not used by Mingma Gyalje
    Taken and used by Dong and Nga Tashi from C3 to summit to C3.

  Sherpa:
    Nga Tashi, Yaphu-9, 04/10,1980


  From Mingma's Facebook page:

  We reached Makalu fore summit at 9:03am on 11th May and I reached main summit at 10:18am. My partner Tashi and Jingxue (Chinese) reached at 10:48am after I put the final rope. Rope was not fix to main summit and we had to use our own 60m+20m main rope which we almost left at camp 3 after some people told it was fixed till Summit. Makalu wasn't easy mountain as I used to hear. I felt like it's completely nonsense to say Makalu is one of easy Peak among 8000m. 


  Saulius Damaulevicius - 29 Oct 2018

  Damaulevicius says that Gregory Attard as well as members of MAKA-171-02 only reached the foresummit and not main summit.


expid: MAKA17103
peakid: MAKA
year: 2017
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Dmitri Sinev
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Makalu Expedition 2017
countries: Belgium, Germany, Lithuania, Malta
approach: Tumlingtar, Jeep to Num, trekked to BC
bcdate: 2017-04-17
smtdate: 2017-05-11
termdate: 2017-05-29
campsites: BC(17/04,4800m),ABC,C1,C2,C3,Smt(11/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Seven Summit Treks Makalu expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Seven Summits provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Gregory Attard (Malta)
  Raphael Fenech Adami (Malta)

  Appr:  Tumlingtar, jeep to Num, trekked to BC
  Camps: BC(01/05,4800m),ABC(02/05,5600m),C1(05/05,6400m),C2(06/05,6650m),
         C3(09/05,7450m),Smt(11/05)
  Left:  13/05/2017
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success at 10:30 am.

  Attard departed high camp at 11 pm on 10 May, summited at 10:30 am 11 May. Was very windy at first and I left the tent when wind died down a little. Waited for a fellow climber Raphael Fenech Adami and his Sherpa. We left together, but they turned back after 20 mins at 7500m. Climb was interesting, but uneventful. Clouds came in and it started snowing soon after reaching summit. Descended to C3.

  Attard did not use a Sherpa.

  Sherpa:
    Phurba Sherpa, Makalu, 18/01/80 (with Raphael Fenech Adami)


  Saulius Damaulevicius - 29 Oct 2018

  Damaulevicius says that Gregory Attard as well as members of MAKA-171-02 only reached the foresummit and not main summit.


  Rudi Bollaert (Belgium)

  Appr:  Tumlingtar, jeep to Num, trekked to BC
  Camps: BC(17/04,4800m),ABC(20/04,5600m),C1(24/04,6400m),C2(25/04,6650m),
         C3(08/05,7450m),xxx(21/05,7600m)
  Left:  24/05/2017
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Abandoned at 7600m due to being too slow.

  The first time Bollaert went to C3 on 8 May, he went together with Phil Crampton's Altitude Junkies. That night the rope-fixing team was supposed to fix up to the summit, but did not due to bad weather. They reached C4, but it was too windy and the fixing team returned to C3. On 9 May Bollaert went down to ABC.

  The next window was around 20 May. The weather was bad and they ended up in a snow storm in C3. They stayed a night and on 21 May they left C3 at 8 pm to go for the summit (with Phurba and Dawa Sherpa). Bollaert was too slow and decided to turn back to C3, where they arrived at 11 pm. On 22 May to ABC. Left ABC on 24 May.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to high point to C3 by Bollaert.


  Thomas Laemmle (Germany)

  Appr:  Tumlingtar, jeep to Num, trekked to BC
  Camps: BC(20/04,4840m),ABC(21/04,5690m),C1(6100m),C2(24/04,6650m),
         C3(08/05,7480m),xxx(21/05,8300m)
  Left:  29/05/2017
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned at 8300m due to being too late in the day.

  Laemmle had 4 attempts for the summit. 

  On his third summit attempt, he reached C3 on 20 May. He was with Rudi Bollaert from Belgium, who had 2 climbing Sherpas. Laemmle left C3 at 11 pm on 20 May. He wanted to follow Rudi and the two Sherpas, who had left C3 at 8 pm. At 12:30 am he reached C4, where there was a Spanish and a Russian team, who were also waiting for the Sherpas to open the route. 

  He left C4 again at 1:30 am, with the Spanish and Russians following him. At about 8150m Xavier from Spain helped Laemmle break trail. When at about 2 am they reached the bottom of the French Couloir, Laemmle thought it would be too late to reach the summit. He decided to turn around. 

  Laemmle tried one last summit push from Hillary BC. He started on 25 May and reached C2 the same day after 9 hours. On 26 May he ascended from C2 to C3 in seven hours. On 26 May, he left C3 at 9:30 pm. This time he reached 8050m, but there was too much snow and the weather was turning bad. He turned back at 6 am and descended to C2, where he arrived at 4 pm. On 28 May back to ABC.

  Laemmle orginally planned to attempt Lhotse after completing Makalu, but this was canceled.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


  Rainer Pircher (Germany)
  Tobias Schwab (Germany)

  Appr:  Tumlingtar, jeep to Num, trekked to BC
  Camps: BC(19/04,5000m),ABC(21/04,5600m),C2(23/04,6650m),C3(08/05,7500m),xxx
  Left:  13/05/2017
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned at 7500m due to bad weather forecast.

  The team was on their summit attempt; however, the weather forecast was not good for the next few days (cold and wind) and as they were climbing without supplemental oxygen, they decided to abandon the expedition.

  On 9 May, they descended from C3 to ABC, where they arrived at 9 pm. 

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


  Saulius Damaulevicius (Lithuania)
  Alexander Lutokhin (Russia)
  Dimitri Sinev (Russia)

  Appr:  Num by helicopter, trekked to BC
  Camps: BC(16/04,4880m),ABC(18/04,5600m),C1(21/04,6350m),C2(23/04,6650m),
         C3(09/05,7450m),C4(20/05,7600m),xxx(21/05,8200m)
  Left:  25/05/2017 by helicopter
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned at 7500m due being too slow with weather deteriorating.

  High point team left C4 at midnight. Weather was perfect, but very cold. After about one hour they found it difficult to find the route. The spent about 40 minutes to find it. There was only old fixed rope. After about 100m they found new fixed ropes and saw that they had to go right. They also were too slow. They wanted to be on top at about 8 am, but they were still below 8000m at 9 am. At noon they decided to turn back as they were too slow and the weather was changing. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 5 pm. On 22 May to BC. 

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


expid: MAKA17104
peakid: MAKA
year: 2017
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Shinha Nobuo
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Makalu Expedition 2017
countries: Ecuador, UK
approach: Helicopter from Pheriche to ABC
bcdate: 2017-04-21
smtdate: 2017-05-10
termdate: 2017-05-12
termnote: Abandoned at 8445m due to lack of fixed rope
othersmts: Gordon and Castillo summited Lhotse (LHOT-171-06)
campsites: ABC(21/04,5600m),C1(24/04,6100m),C2(29/04,6650m),C3(08/05,7450m),xxx(10/05/8445m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
primid: LHOT17106
routememo:
  ABC 21/04  5600m
  C1  24/04  6100m
  C2  29/04  6650m
  C3  08/05  7450m
  HPt 10/05  8445m by Gordon, Jarrin, Nobuo, Castillo Lofthouse, Pemba Nuru at 9 am 
             (they stopped on the false summit at the end of the French couloirs 
             as the rope was not fixed).

  Gordon, Jarrin and Nobuo, who were using oxygen, left C3 at midnight while Castillo Lofthouse (no O2) had left a 10:45 pm. Conditions were good, but there was lot snowdrift in the couloirs. Straightforward climb. Gordon, Jarrin and Nobuo caught up with Castillo Lofthouse just before the French Couloir. They climbed for a while together and then they headed off. However, due to the slow movement in the couloirs, Castillo Lofthouse managed to catch up with them again just below the summit.

  They spent about 20 minutes on the false summit and descended to ABC. Gordon and Jarrin arrived at 9:30 pm, and Noubu and Castillo Lofthouse at 8 pm.

  Oxygen: 
    Used from below C3 to high point to C2 by Gordon, Jarrin, Nobuo and Pemba Nuru
    Castillo Lofthouse did not use oxygen.


expid: MAKA17105
peakid: MAKA
year: 2017
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Nuria Picas, Eva Zarzuelo
sponsor: Spanish Makalu Expedition 2017
countries: Andorra
approach: Trekked from Num to ABC; Picas and Batriu via Sherpani Col
bcdate: 2017-04-28
smtdate: 2017-05-09
termdate: 2017-05-29
termnote: Abandoned at 8445m due to lack of fixed rope
agency: Bochi Bochi Treks
campsites:
  ABC(28/04,5600m),C1(01/05,6600m),C2(08/05,7500m),xxx(09/05,8445m)
  ABC(28/04,5600m),C1(01/05,6600m),C2(08/05,7500m),C3(20/05,7800m),xxx(21/05,8100m)
  ABC(03/05,5600m),C1(06/05,6600m),C2(18/05,7400m),C3(19/05,7600m),xxx(20/05,8250m)

routememo:
  The Spanish group were two separate teams: Zarzuelo, Ibero, Casanovas and Trastroy arrived at ABC on 28 April via the normal route, trekking from Num to ABC. Picas and Batriu arrived at ABC on 3 May via crossing Amphu Laptsa, West Col and Sherpani Col.

  Zarzuelo turned around [on 21 May at 8100m] as she had been suffering from a cold for a while and was tired. On top of that she had lost a mitten and her hand was getting cold.

  Ibero reached the Makalu La (7400m). According to Picas, he had frostbite. 

  Casanovas reached C2, he was too tired to carry on.

  Picas and Batriu madde their summit bid on 20 May. Picas turned around at 7900m due to pneumonia while Batriu continued on the 8250m then stopped due to exhaustion.

  Batriu tried again on 27 May together with German climber Thomas Laemmle, but then they only reached 7890m due to bad weather.

  Trastoy reached the col before the summit [8445m) on 9 May and stopped due to lack of fixed rope.


expid: MAKA17106
peakid: MAKA
year: 2017
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Simone La Terra
sponsor: Italian-Polish Makalu Expedition 2017
countries: Poland
approach: Tumlingtar
bcdate: 2017-03-29
smtdate: 2017-05-10
termdate: 2017-05-19
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to cold feet
campsites: BC(29/03,4800m),ABC(31/03,5600m),C1(11/04,6400m),C2(12/04,6600m),C3(08/05,7450m),xxx(10/05,8000m)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  BC  29/03  4800m (Hillary BC)
  ABC 31/03  5600m
  C1  11/04  6400m (above the headwall)
  C2  12/04  6600m
  C3  08/05  7450m
  HPt 10/05  8000m by La Terra, Michalski at 3 am.

  Team started from C3 at 10 pm on 9 May. It was very cold. When they reached 8000m both climbers got very cold feet and decided to turn back as they were worried that they would get frostbite. They descended to ABC, where they arrived at 5 pm. On the way down they stripped C3, but left C2.

  They left ABC for a second summit push on 17 May. They stayed one night at C2 and on 18 May they reached about 7000m, but had cold toes again and abandoned the expedition. Descended to ABC. Left BC on 19 May by helicopter.

  Fixed rope:	150m up the headwall.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


expid: MAKA17107
peakid: MAKA
year: 2017
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Chang-Baek
sponsor: Korean Makalu Expedition 2017
approach: Tumlingtar, Jeep to Num, trekked to BC
bcdate: 2017-04-05
smtdate: 2017-05-09
termdate: 2017-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 7450m due to bad weather
agency: NE-KO Treks
campsites:
  BC(05/04,4700m),ABC(16/04,5600m),C1(25/04,6100m),C2(27/04,6650m),C3(09/05,7450m),xxx(09,19/05,7450m)

routememo:
  BC  05/04  4700m
  ABC 16/04  5600m
  C1  25/04  6100m
  C2  27/04  6650m
  C3  09/05  7450m
  HPt 09/05+19/05  7450m by Kim Dong-Jin, Pasang.

  All other members apart from Lee Chang-Baek reached C1 on 25 May. They were too weak or sick to continue.

  Lee Chang-Baek stayed at BC as BC manager.

  Kim Dong-Jin did not carry on due to bad weather.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C2 to C3 to C2 by Kim Dong-Jin.


expid: MAKA17108
peakid: MAKA
year: 2017
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Richard Morse
sponsor: The Bali Four Makalu 2017
countries: Canada
approach: Tumlingtar, Jeep to Num, trekked to BC
bcdate: 2017-04-12
smtdate: 2017-05-10
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2017-05-15
termnote: Abandoned at 8460m due to lack of fixed ropes
campsites: BC(12/04,4800m),ABC(16/04,5600m),C1(25/04,6300m),C2(30/04,6600m),C3(08/05,7500m),xxx(10/05,8460m)
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  Cole, Loeb and Tokarska began summit push on 9 May at 10 pm. Cole turned around at 7800m due to weakness and moderate AMS and Loeb turned around at 8200m due length of day and concerns about getting back down safely. Tokarska continued on to about 8460m with Dawa Chhiri and Pasang Gelje, then turned about about 9 am.

  Fixed rope: approx. 3000m from C1 to C3.

  Oxygen: 
    Used by members from 7300m to high pt to 7300m
    Used by Sherpas from 7500m to high pt to 7500m.


  Urszula Tokarska - 7 June 2017

  Makalu is a beautiful mountain and it was a great experience but unfortunately there was much confusion about the summit. Up until summit attempt on May 10th the ropes were only fixed to camp 3 and once few teams decided to take advantage of the early weather window the ropes had to be fixed at the same time as climbers were attempting the summit. There was Altitude Junkies team and our team amongst few others. The ropes were fixed only to the fore summit and that’s where the Altitude Junkies team stopped, we got there at 8:35 am and I went little further but the very top was deemed impossible and as far as I know nobody reached it that day. Unfortunately there was also bad communication and confusion afterwards as people were posting summit news. I’ve attached couple of pictures from the fore summit. 


expid: MAKA17109
peakid: MAKA
year: 2017
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Elisabeth Revol
sponsor: Revol Makalu-Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2017
approach: Tumlingtar, Jeep to Num, trekked to BC
bcdate: 2017-04-16
smtdate: 2017-05-10
termdate: 2017-05-12
termnote: Abandoned at 8445m due to lack of fixed rope
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-171-14), attempted Everest (EVER-171-41)
campsites: BC(16/04,4800m),ABC(17/04,5600m),C1(19/04,6400m),C2(24/04,6600m),C3(08/05,7450m),xxx(10/05,8445m)
agency: Satori Adventures (Himalayan Guides pmt)
routememo:
  BC  16/04  4800m
  ABC 17/04  5600m
  C1  19/04  6400m (above the headwall)
  C2  24/04  6600m
  C3  08/05  7450m
  HPt 10/05  8445m (false summit) by Revol at 10 am (stopped at the pinnacle at the
             end of the French Couloirs as the rope was not fixed all the way to 
             the true summit). 

  Revol left C3 at 10 pm on 9 May. Straightforward climb. She spent about 15 minutes on the false summit and descended to ABC, where she arrived at 7 pm. 

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


expid: MAKA17110
peakid: MAKA
year: 2017
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Jocelyn Seagram
sponsor: Canadian Makalu Expedition 2017
approach: Namche to Hillary BC by helicopter
bcdate: 2017-04-17
smtdate: 2017-04-27
termdate: 2017-05-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6650m due to lack of good Sherpa support
campsites: BC(17/04,4800m),ABC(21/04,5600m),C1(26/04,6100m),C2(27/04,6650m),xxx
agency: Expedition Himalaya
routememo:
  BC  17/04  4800m
  ABC 21/04  5600m
  C1  26/04  6100m
  C2  27/04  6650m (only tag)
  HPt 27/04 & 02/05  by Seagram		

  Seagram was very frustrated with Ongchhu Sherpa as he was complaining a lot and did not feel strong. She rang her agency to fly in another Sherpa, who arrived on 8 May. He carried up some loads, but did not get higher than 7000m.

  After Phil Crampton and took his Sherpas away, everything seems to fall apart because of the rope fixing. She pulled the plug as she did not think the ropes were fixed high up on the mountain.

  Oxygen: Taken, but not used.


expid: MAKA17111
peakid: MAKA
year: 2017
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Tatsuo Matsumoto
sponsor: Matsumomto Makalu Expedition 2017
approach: Tumlingtar, Jeep to Num, trekked to BC
bcdate: 2017-04-28
smtdate: 2017-05-18
termdate: 2017-05-19
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to lack of fixed rope
campsites: ABC(28/04,5700m),C2(04/05,6500m),C3(18/05,7200m),xxx
agency: Satori Adventures (Himalayan Guides pmt)
routememo:
  BC  28/05  5700m
  C2  04/05  6506m
  C3  18/05  7200m approx usual campsite.
  HPt 18/05  7200m by Matsumoto, Pema and Nima

  When Matsumoto team reached C3 nobody put up fix lines above it and other teams started leaving. His Sherpas were told that at least 5 Sherpas were required to fix the line. It was not possible for him to have additional Sherpas. So, he called off the climb.

  Oxygen: used by Matsumoto from C2 to C3 to C2.


expid: MANA17101
peakid: MANA
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Juan Ramon Madariaga Abaitua
countries: Canada
approach: Soti Khola
bcdate: 2017-04-17
smtdate: 2017-04-22
termdate: 2017-05-10
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to too much snow
campsites: BC(17/04,4700m),C1(21/04,5500m),xxx(22/04,08/05,5900m)
agency: Yeti Expeditions (Satori Adventures pmt)?
routememo:
  BC  17/04  4700m
  C1  21/04  5500m
  HPt 22/04 & 08/05  5900m by Madariaga, Menard, Gegundez.

  The team did not get higher than 5900m due to too much snow and the weather was too bad during the entire expedition.

  Fixed rope:	100m between C1 and C2.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


expid: DHA117107
peakid: DHA1
year: 2017
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Ecuador
leaders: Santiago Quintero
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Dhaulagiri Expedition 2017
countries: Iran, Italy, Japan, Spain
bcdate: 2017-04-09
smtdate: 2017-05-19
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2017-04-25
campsites: BC(09/04),C1,C2,C3,Smt(19-20/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Seven Summit Treks Dhaulagiri expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Seven Summits provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Santiago Quintero (Ecuador)

  Name:  Ecuador en todo lo alto 14x8000
  Appr:  Marpha, then helicopter to BC
  Camps: BC(12/04,4600m),C1(15/04,5700m),C2(05/05,6500m),C3(19/05,7300m),Smt(20/05)
  Left:  23/05/2016
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Success on 20/05 at 5:30 pm by Quintero, Mingma [Thindu]

  On summit push Quintero and Mingma set off from C3 at 3 am. Conditions were good in the beginning, only a little bit of snow. Very long and hard traverse from 7400m to the summit. They stayed on the summit for 30 minutes. Dangerous conditions on the summit, it was stormy, the air was full of electricity and tension, there was thunder and lightning, and it was snowing heavily. They got back to C3 at 10 pm. Going down was dangerous because it was icy and the terrain was steep, no fixed rope. Mingma and Quintero roped up, if one of them had slipped, they might have both fell.

  At C3, Quintero developed cerebral edema and his condition deteriorated quickly. According to him he would have died without Mingma. On 21 May they descended to C2, Quintero was in bad condition and descended with great difficulty. On 22 May they were on their way to BC. At C1 he was taken to BC by helicopter against his will [ Marco Confortola says Santiago was rescued from C2].

  According to him, he had not asked for a helicopter rescue, but his friend Marco Confortola, who was involved in a rescue of 6 Indians suffering from severe frostbite, "forced" him into the rescue, clipping him by carabiner into the rescue line of the helicopter against Quintero's will. The helicopter was flown by an Italian friend of Confortola.

  Fixed rope: From BC to C3 and at summit couloirs (last 100m below summit).

  Oxygen: taken and used by Mingma from C3 to summit and down to C3.

  Qunitero claims he did not use oxygen, but the Spanish team led by Carlos Soria said he was given oxygen on the way down.

  Mingma Sherpa confirms Santiago used three bottles of oxygen. Mingma had to buy them from other groups; and people of Adventure Consultants put him a dexamethasone injection.


  Marco Confortola (Italy)
  Marco Camandona (Italy)

  Name:  Marco Confortola e Marco Camandona al Dhaulagiri 2017
  Appr:  French Pass->Italian BC
  Camps: BC(14/04,4600m),C1(17/04,5600m),C2(22/04,6500m),C3(19/05,7500m),Smt(20/05)
  Left:  25/05/2016
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Success on 20/05 at 5:30 pm

  Summit team left C3 at 3 am. They had intended to leave at 6 pm on 19 May, but it was too windy. So they waited until the winds died down and left at 3 am. Straightforward climb, but Confortola says that Dhaulagiri is a dangerous mountain due to weather and avalanching. On the summit, they were caught in a thunderstorm. They started to descend at 6 pm.

  Casanova descended to C2, where he arrived at 3 am. Confortola stayed at C3, where he arrived at 9 pm. On 21 May, Confortola descended to C2, picked up Casanova, packed up and descended to BC.

  Santiago Quintero was also at C3, but he was very unwell. He remained there for two days and on 23 May he was picked up by helicopter from C2. Confortola is a helicopter rescuer and he did the long-line rescue for the Indian and Quintero.

  Oxygen: not taken, not used.


  Seyed Hadi Sattar Forough (Iran)

  Name:  Iranian Dhaulagiri Expedition 2017
  Appr:  By road to Darbang->Italian BC 
  Camps: BC(20/04,4600m),C1(23/04,5700m),C2(24/04,6500m),C3(16/05,7300m),Smt(19/05)
  Left:  23/05/2016
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Success on 19/05 at 4 pm

  Sattar stayed at C3 for two nights as there was no fixed ropes. On 18 May he left C3 at 11 pm together with Kazemi and Pennington, following the rope-fixing Sherpas. At 7800m the fixing group stopped and said they were finished.

  He still continued to follow Kazemi and Pennington, who had fixed 60m of rope just below the couloir. In the couloir he used old fixed rope

  He spent about one hour on the summit and descended to C3, where he arrived at 11:30 pm. Kazemi (different expedition) had already found Sattar's tent that had been moved and broken. Sattar joined Kazemi at 11:30 pm.

  Sattar Fourugh descended to BC on 20 May. He took the direct route through the crevasses and was lucky not to fall in (Kazemi said that). Left BC on 23 May.

  Oxygen:	not taken, not used.


  Inigo Castineyra (Spain)

  Appr:  Marpha->Hidden Valley->BC                                                     Camps: BC(09/04,4700m),C1(21/04,5700m),C2(06/05,6500m),C3(19/05,7200m),xxx
  Left:  24/05/2016
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 7200m due to bad weather forecast


  Kenichi Kubo (Japan)
  Hideki Nakayama (Japan)

  Appr:  Deli->Khamla->Jeltung->Doban->Sallagari->Italian BC                                                     Camps: BC(17/04,4700m),C1(23/04,5700m),C2(04/05,6435m),C3(17/05,7400m),
         xxx(18/05,7800m)
  Left:  23/05/2016
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Abandoned at 7800m due by Nakayama to strong wind and no-fixed rope.

  Nakayama arrived at C3 (7400m) on 17 May and set out for summit on 18 May, got to 7800m and turned back due to strong winds and lack of fixed rope. Kubo went to C3 on 18 May, but did not attempt the summit due to exhaustion and returned to BC.

  Sherpas:
    Chhongba, Gudel-5, 31/12/89
    Ongchu


expid: PUMO17101
peakid: PUMO
year: 2017
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Slovakia
leaders: Peter Hamor
sponsor: Himalayan Adventure 2017
approach: Helicopter to BC
bcdate: 2017-03-19
smtdate: 2017-04-02
termdate: 2017-04-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to dangerous conditions
othersmts: Summited Dhaulagiri (DHA1-171-05)
campsites: BC(19/03,5050m),C1(30/03,5700m),C2(01/04,6200m),xxx(02/04,6600m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
primid: DHA117105
routememo:
  BC  19/03  5050m at Pyramid (Italian research station)
  C1  30/03  5700m
  C2  01/04  6200m
  HPt 02/04  6600m by Hamor, Sabovcik and Gabriz.

  First climbed Island Peak before going to Pumori. 

  On Pumori, the route from C1 is mixed climbing until they reached a snow and ice field, where they set up C2. They left C2 at around 6 pm. They climbed for about 8 hours, but the weather was bad and conditions were too dangerous. A lot of rock fall and according to Hamor it was like a mud climb. They turned back at about 2 pm. They returned to C2, where they arrived at 4 pm. Stayed the night.

  Petrik reached C2 and he did not join the others on the summit push as he thought the conditions were too dangerous. Too many falling rocks. 

  On 3 April, they returned to the Pyramid.


expid: PUMO17102
peakid: PUMO
year: 2017
route1: S Face (new rte)
nation: Romania
leaders: Vlad Capusan
sponsor: Romanian Pumori Expedition 2017
bcdate: 2017-04-26
smtdate: 2017-05-10
termdate: 2017-05-11
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to avalanching and dangerous conditions
campsites: BC(26/04,5300m),Biv1(06/05,6000m),Biv2(07/05,6400m),Biv3(08/05,6580m),xxx(10/05,6800m)
accidents: Fall without incidence (just some snow particules in the lungs)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  We placed the base camp on the south side near the two lake's. The altitude was 5300m. We reached BC on 26 April 2017. Before starting, we studied carefully the route that the Croats made in the 80's. They chose a variant on the left side and went out into the south-western ridge.

  We decided to try a direct route on the central part of the wall and make the exit to the central ramp.

  We had the same start as the Croatians, but we lost a day at the entrance on the face. The glacier is fractured by a giant crevase that we have hardly managed to cross it.

  After entering the common chimney, we took it on a direct couloir, avoiding the left side of the wall. We didn't find any equipment or materials in the wall. We climb for 4 days in very difficult conditions and we placed 3 bivy's. The route is mainly composed by rock and ice at 70-90 degrees. We reached 6580m on the last bivy, and we were close to the exit in the summit ridge, but around 5 am, black clouds swallowed the face, soon it start snowing heavily, we treat climbing and we reached the highest point on 6800m where an avalanche took me down and I stopped by one Friend. I was very lucky.

  We reached 6800m, and after the avalanche fell on the ramp, we realised we are like sitting ducks in front of fire, so considering the weather, we decided that the only chance we have, is to belay down the wall. Although I did not hit in fall I started coughing hard enough (our bivy platform at 6580m was gone and the wall has transformed into a huge avalanche funnel).

  We started belying in regroups made from a single piton (we had 13 CT pitons with us, we used 11 and we also left some slings and friends in some regroups). I don't really know exactly what hour we reached the base of the wall, but I know it was already night. We reached BC in 10 May around 2-3 am. We were completely finished.


expid: PURK17101
peakid: PURK
year: 2017
route1: N Face
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
sponsor: 'From Nar to Muktinath' Expedition
ascent1: 2nd,3rd
countries: Belgium
approach: From Mustang and Teri La
bcdate: 2017-05-25
smtdate: 2017-05-26
termdate: 2017-05-27
campsites: BC(25/05,5795m),Smt(26-27/05)
agency: Yeti Adventure
routememo:
  4 members: Paulo Grobel, Philippe Duchene, Dominique Ansel, Jean-Paul Charpentier 
  4 high-altitude workers: Rajan Bhote, Karma Sherpa, Gurpha Tamang, Anil Rai

  - Started trekking on 13th of May. 
  - PURK BC on 25th of May (Purbung Pass near lake)
  - PURK summit on 26th of May via north slopes and route called "dre dans l’pentu". 
  - Nepali team (Rajan Bhote, Karma Sherpa, Gurpha Tamang, Anil Rai) made it by the
    same route on the 27th of May in bad weather conditions.
  - Yakawakang BC on the 27th May (5640m).
  - Belgian Peak = all summiters on 28th of May except Paulo Grobel and Jean-Paul 
    Charpentier. 
  - Return via Jong, Muktinath, Jomoson.


expid: GORK17101
peakid: GORK
year: 2017
route1: S side
nation: UK
leaders: Julian Freeman-Attwood
sponsor: British Gorakh Himal Expedition 2017
approach: Simikot->Nepka Village
bcdate: 2017-05-11
smtdate: 2017-05-14
termdate: 2017-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 5650m due to too much snow
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC  11/05  4550 below Kang La
  ABC 13/05  on top of Kang La 5350m
  HPt 14/05  5650m by all Fotheringham, Freeman-Attwood, Hughes and Colton.

  After having trekked to BC for 10 days from Simikot, they arrived at their BC with 16 mules. BC was on the grass. They set up their ABC on top of the Kang La, from where they had two 6000m peaks to each side (east and west). They tried the peak to the east, but the weather was too bad for them to continue. The climbing itself was not so difficult. About 50 degrees snow and ice. On 14 May they descended back to their BC, where they stayed for a couple of days to relax.

  On 16 May they returned to ABC, but the was still too much snow on the hill and they decided to abandon the expedition and leave ABC.

  According to Freeman-Attwood there are about 45 unclimbed 6000m peaks in the area.


expid: YAUP17101
peakid: YAUP
year: 2017
route1: W Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Pascal Manetsch
sponsor: Yaupa First Ascent 2017
countries: Germany, Kosovo
approach: Tumlingtar->Num->Sedua->Dobate->Yangle Kharka->Langmale
bcdate: 2017-04-25
smtdate: 2017-04-28
termdate: 2017-04-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6330m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(25/04,5300m),ABC(27/04,5800m),xxx(28/04,6330m)
agency: TAGnepal Trekking
routememo:
  Conditions: couloir very nice, some hard ice below, weather very instable; good at the beginning, white-out at the end.

  Route: Couloir of West Face leading directly to Peak 5.


expid: HIML17101
peakid: HIML
year: 2017
route1: SW Ridge
route2: SW Ridge to HMLE smt, ESE Ridge to HIML smt
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
sponsor: Paulo Himlung East Expedition 2017
approach: Phu->BC
bcdate: 2017-04-26
smtdate: 2017-05-04
termdate: 2017-05-12
othersmts: Summited Himlung East (HMLE-171-01)
agency: Yeti Adventure
campsites:
  BC(26/04,4850m),ABC(27/04,4950m),C1(29/04,5480m),C2(02/05,5980m),C3(04/05,6280m),C4(06/05,6850m),C5(07/05,7050m),Smt(04,07-08/05)

routememo:
  BC  26/04  4850m
  ABC 27/04  4950m (French camp)
  C1  29/04  5480m 
  C2  02/05  5980m 
  C3  04/05  6280m 
  C4  06/05  6850m
  C5  07/05  7050m 

  Returned to BC on the 10th of May.

  May 7: 6 French and 3 Nepalis camped at C5 (7050m), 100m below the Himlung Himal summit. Paulo Grobel and Bertrand Vayssettes also summited on that day.

  Summit day on HMLE: 8th of May at 11 am with 2 members and 2 hired (Isabelle Guillaume, Paulo Grobel, Jangbu Sherpa, Rajan Bhote). Himlung East summit team climbed via W Ridge. Intended to continue to traverse onto the ridge farther north from HMLE (border between Nepal and China), but didn't try. On return they climbed ESE ridge of Himlung to the summit. First traverse between both peaks. 

  Others summiting HIML via normal route:
    4th of May: Jean Francois Males, Karma Sherpa 
    7th of May: Bertrand Vayssettes, Paulo Grobel
    8th of May: Bertrand Vayssettes (again), Regis Bardet, Christian Hurgon, 
                Michael Collin, Temba Tsiring Sherpa

  High Points for other members: On 6th of May, Christophe Adam, Denis Levaillant, Zangbu Sherpa reached a small summit near Himlung Pass at 6600m.


  Note from Paulo Grobel - 6 August 2017

  After many expeditions to Himlung Himal by various itineraries, I felt confident to try a big journey at altitude, traversing this accessible 7000er via a previously untrodden ridge, carrying more than four days of food. Our plan was to climb the normal route up the NW Ridge of Himlung Himal (7126m), without fixed ropes of course, put a high camp just below the summit, then climb over the top with food and all our gear and continue to the unclimbed Himlung East (6932m). The latter is a recently opened (2014) peak on the frontier with Tibet, on the ridge that leads north toward Ratna Chuli. We would then continue down this north ridge, over several tops including Phu Kang (6694m; opened in 2002, this peak is still unclimbed, though the goal of a 2008 Swiss expedition that found no accessible route to the summit), and onward to the vicinity of Peak 6566m, where we would descend the ridge west, and eventually reach the valley north of Himlung Himal, so completing a "horseshoe."

  It was a strange climb. We established five camps on the NW Ridge of Himlung Himal, the last on a flat shoulder at 7050m, northwest of and not far from the main top. It was higher than our eventual goal, Himlung East. We arrived at this camp at 11 am on May 7: the previous day two members of our group, Jean Francois Males and Karma Sherpa, had reached the main summit. However, the weather on the 7th was not good. Bertrand Vayssettes and I climbed to the main summit to scope the way ahead. We had spent a lot of time acclimatizing so we could live safely at 7000m and our schedule was now tight. More importantly, the weather felt too unstable to commit to the full traverse. Reluctantly, we took the decision to make Himlung East our goal.

  On the 8th Isabelle Guillaume with Jangbu Sherpa, and Rajan Bhote and I left camp and skirted the summit by the northern slopes to reach the east ridge, which we descended, narrow at first, to a col and then ascended the west ridge of Himlung East to its summit. On the return we climbed up the east ridge of Himlung Himal and over the summit, so making the first ascent of this ridge. That same day five other members of the group reached the top of Himlung Himal. By the time we had returned to camp the weather was poor again, but fortunately next morning the cloud level rose and we were able to make our descent. Traversing a summit is such a great game, this ridge is fantastic, and the continuation north is still there to be done.


