# exped

expid: ANNS81301
peakid: ANNS
year: 1981
route1: NE Face-N Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Han Sang-Kook
sponsor: Annapurna S Peak Exp of Sung Kyun Kwan University Alpine Club
ascent1: 7th
approach: Pokhara->Annapurna Sanctuary
bcdate: 1981-09-17
smtdate: 1981-10-25
smttime: 1500
termdate: 1981-11-01
campsites:
  BC(17/09,4090),C1(21/09,4720m),C2(??/10,5380m),C3(??/10,5850m),C4(22/10,6350),C5(24/10,6650m),Smt(10/25/10)

routememo:
  Kim Hong-Ki - 1 Nov 81

  BC 4100m 17 Sept
  C1 4700m 21 Sept
  C2 5380m Oct
  C3 5850m Oct
  C4 6350m 22 Oct
  C5 6650m 24 Oct
  Summit 25 Oct

  C1 broken by storm of heavy snow and much equipment and food lost but members safe. C1 covered by 3 meters snow. 10 days shovelling found supplies but big delay. Our plan all members to top in 2 parties of 3 members and 1 Sherpa and 2 members only.

  1st party success on 25 Oct first that night heavy snow 25/26 to 27 Oct, so 2nd party bid abandoned.
   
  1st party = Han, Kim Chang-Sun, Wan, Phinzo Sherpa

  Most difficult part C1 to C2: big seracs and these broke down every day and constant new route-making needs.

  No one hit by serac; one high porter fell 30m in crevasse but OK. Very lucky, many many dangerous situations, but no accident. No frostbite.

  Men on summit 3:00 pm. left C5 at 4:30 am, returned C5 7:50 pm in dark and snow which started falling 5:30 pm. From C5 went to Central Peak and thence to Main Peak; at Central Peak at 11:50 am.

  2nd party planned to go to North Peak then to Central and Main Peaks.

  Route = North Ridge from NE Face. All camps were on face. Carried oxygen to C5 but never used.

  One member in C4 sick and used oxygen while sleeping; condition very good after that and he went to summit. 

  Other 4 came to KTM after 1 week.
   
  Kim left BC 28 Oct. Summit members coming down C4 to C2. 29th they will be in BC and to leave BC today for KTM. Japanese in 1964 also climbed same face and C4 in same place, but Japanese route to right of big of serac area and Koreans to left. Since 1964 face much changed.

  Kim returns to Pokhara after 2-3 days to meet expedition there.


  Jong Tae Won - 31 Aug 81

  4 in KTM on 1 Sept 4-5
  Leave KTM 5 Sept to Pokhara by truck.
  Approach via Ghandrung, Hinko to Annapurna Sanctuary in 6-7 days. 
  BC 4200m
  Route South-North Ridge from Col between Annapurna South and Fang.
  5 camps above BC with C5 on North Ridge
  Temp C1 = 4400m
  C1  = 5200m
  C2  = 5600m 
  ABC = 6200m
  C4  = 600m
  Arrived BC about 13 Sept, start climb 15 Sept 
  Summit 15-20 Oct
  7 Sherpas above BC
  Oxygen medical only
  Sleep in Shanbu
  Route: maybe change route to South Face


expid: APIM81301
peakid: APIM
year: 1981
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Stanislaw Rudzinski
sponsor: Polish Himalayan Expedition to Mountain Api 1981
approach: Darchula
bcdate: 1981-10-14
smtdate: 1981-10-28
termdate: 1981-11-10
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(14/10,3500m),ABC(24/10,4800m),xxx(28/10,6700m)
routememo:
  Rudzinski - 23 Nov 81

  2 days walk Darchula to BC but great shortage of porters took 2 weeks to get all loads to BC. BC established 14 Oct with last loads all there on 16th at 3500m at Budhi Khola valley parallel to and west of Api Khola. BC was northwest of Api. Route was east to NW Ridge of Api.

  ABC was in Api Khola at 4800m on 24 Oct. 3 members Jedlinski, Piotrowski, Terlikowski had already started on 23 Oct alpine-style attack on mountain. ABC for return. They started from BC with 10 days food and equipment. Ridge on point 6070 on topo map and followed ridge to 5800m; from there beyond on ridge difficult ice. 28 Oct reached 6700m on ridge and then stopped by very strong wind. Put tent there in half on ice cave and slept 2 nights there waiting for wind to die down, but wind did not die down. Tried to go up but wind below. One man of 85 kg over 30m. 

  30 Oct noon they started back. Went through and icefall in descent more difficult and dangerous than Khumbu Icefall. Returned to BC 2 Nov night while 3 men making their attempt others made ABC and C1 on 25 Oct 5400m to be ready to help high climber if necessary.

  6 Nov started return to Darchula.

  Nepal permit valid til 25 Nov but Indian permit to cross from Nepal to India Darchula expired 15 Nov.

  Delhi to India Darchula is 24 hours by bus and very cheap; would go this way again. Home Ministry in Delhi gives permit and should be obtained well in advance and through an embassy in Delhi.

  India Darchula has electricity and hard-topped road; Nepalese Darchula only paths. 

  No accidents. 

  Route certainly possible. Expedition lost much there re-Nepalese permits and porters. Where 3 men stopped was only 3-4 hours easy walk to summit.


  Rudzinski - 21 Sept 81

  Route = Northwest side, exactly what feature (face or pillar) will decide often arrival at BC.

  Approach from India at Darchula in west. Probably approach mountain from Api Khola, perhaps from Nampa Khola; recce party will go in advance to decide where to put BC.

  3 members only in KTM, arrived 18 Sept, others 5 in Delhi.

  Plan leave KTM 25 or 26 Sept and arrive Darchula 29 or 30 Sept. 4-5 days from Darchula to BC.

  Climb alpine-style; not much equipment, not big expedition; maybe 1 final camp, maybe none. 3 weeks BC to top.

  Rudzinski and some others return to KTM 5-6 weeks after departure depending on weather.

  No Sherpas above BC. 
  1 small oxygen for medical.


expid: MAKA81301
peakid: MAKA
year: 1981
route1: NW side (acclim to 8000m)
route2: W Face (to 7900m)
route3: W Face-N Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Voytek Kurtyka
sponsor: East-West Precipice Fellowship Expedition to Makalu
ascent3: 16th
countries: UK
approach: Tumlingtar->Makalu BC
bcdate: 1981-09-01
smtdate: 1981-10-15
smttime: 1630
termdate: 1981-10-17
accidents: Alex hit by vertical ice which injued head; Kurtyka had slight frostbite
campsites:
  LowBC(01/09,4900m),BC(04/09,5300m),C1(11/09,6200m),xxx(26/09,8000m); Biv1(6700m),Biv2(7200m),Biv3(7600m),Biv4(7800m),xxx; Biv1(12/10,7000m),Biv2(13/10,7500m),Biv3(14/10,8000m),Smt(15/10)

routememo:
  Sharma, Tourism - 31 Jan 81

  HMG "disregards" claim of Kukuczka solo ascent of Makalu last Oct because Austrian Makalu expedition and their LO (who had taken over as Poles LO) said they did not believe his claim. They gave no reasons, but Austrians denied that Kukuczka had used their tent as his account said he did.
   
  Sharma has personally asked Kurtyka to provide proof of solo ascent, and if this is provided, HMG may reverse its position. HMG might also reverse position if this winter's French soloist Ghirardini finds item left on summit by Kukuczka (a Polish doll).

  HMG has not disregarded Japanese Dhaulagiri I soloist's claim of last spring because in his case, his LO did believe his account, but HMG does not support his claim either until he provides proof.

  This is first time HMG has not acknowledged a claim of ascent as far as Sharma knows; this "disregard" letter to Kurtyka "was cooked" and Sharma's request to Kurtyka for proof is "more official."

  HMG's non-acknowledgement is not to be used as a separate story but only in connection with current for Makalu solo attempt.


  Kurtyka - 6 Nov 81

  Arrived 26 Sept all 3 reached 8000m in acclimatization climb via northwest side and North Ridge. Then down to BC and after 3 days went to West Face. 4 bivs from 6000m at base of face, to 6700m, 7200m, 7600m, 7800m.

  5th day after 4th biv started to descend and reached 7200m and next day in BC. Climbed one pitch on overhang. Realized would have to stay at 8000m 4 nights and for this we were not prepared; gas at most for only 2 bivs including descent; also psychologically not prepared.

  Maybe 4 men in teams taking turns and with fixed ropes on over hang can be done, but we fed up with face and will not attempt soon.

  Returned to BC 9 Oct and Alex left; quite windy.

  Kurtyka could not go back because of frostbite.

  12 Oct Kukuczka left BC. Extremely alone (no one on mountain); 
         was a tent left at Makalu Col as only help of any kind, but tent not 
         expected to have still been there.
  12 Oct from BC 5400m to 7000m using Roger Baxter-Jones route
  13 Oct from 7000m to 7500m North Ridge which thinks only climbers - 
         this not Baxter-Jones route (reached ridge at 7500m)
  14 Oct from 7500m to 8000m North Ridge
  15 Oct 8000m to summit and back to 8000m at 9:00 pm
         (left Polish toy on summit and found 3 French pegs)
  16 Oct arrived BC very tired, more tired than after Everest but not extreme
         exhaustion or frostbite.


  Sharma, Tourism 

  Jerzy Kukuczka, 1948, Katowice electronics
  Oct 11 abandoned by announcement of MacIntyre

  Decided attempt another line a left side of West Face. Left BC solo 12 Oct. Kurtyka had slight frostbite and not able to join Kukuczka in this attempt. Kukuczka climbed to summit on 15 Oct after making variation in route. On face 7000m and to summit along a ridge on the northwest also not climbed before.

  Kurtyka now in KTM and so is Kukuczka.
  Not to attribute to Ministry - according to report by Kurtyka.


  Alex MacIntyre - 19 Oct 81

  About 4 Oct, 3 members left BC to attempt West Face having completed acclimatization which was 2 trips up normal route including biv at 8000m on 2nd trip, so very very fit. On about 5-8 Oct climbed to 7900m on face: 3 ice fields and 3 rock bands to foot of final rock band/head wall. Found way out to right to West Pillar, not taking head wall direct but even going out to right going to be very difficult climb. Made attempt at easiest line, ice gully, when 40m took 6 hours (alpine grade 6). Would have then led to very difficult pitch but hadn't gas, food and time left. Would have required 4 bivouacs above 8000m and to carry that gear and bivouac and cross and descend going to be exhausting so next down, front pointing most of the way. Really felt we tried hard and nobody disappointed. Learned a hell of a lot about how to tackle these things: would do it with six people in teams of 2 men each; 3 people not enough. Top of 3rd icefield to bottom of head wall is overhang. 

  Nearly got wiped out on 2nd acclimatization trip when huge wind slab came down; luckily were above it.

  2 Polish came out to KTM with Austrians who have abandoned attempt because of avalanche which destroyed a camp and ripped out a rope.

  Austrians and 2 Polish leave BC about 20th Oct. Don't think they reached Col.

  Highest point on face route was about 7900m on 9 Oct by all 3 really (Alex 40m above others).

  Reached BC on 11th at 5300m at junction of glaciers. 
  Left BC with everything on own backs with no Sherpa to help. No oxygen.

  No frostbite, no accident except Alex got hit by vertical ice which injured head. Avalanche conditions were so bad they were prepared to rope down Front Pillar.


  Sharma, Tourism - 16 Sept 81

  Polish-British Makalu

  Lower BC established 1 Sept at 4900m after 11 days march from Tumlingtar. Extremely wet weather and porter's strikes. Hope to be ABC in next four days after 1 Sept.


  East-West Precipice Fellowship Expedition to Makalu - 16 Aug 81

  Will put tent at Col for descent. Will go northwest side higher perhaps to 8000m 3-4 weeks of this acclimatization; then to face. BC 5400m.

  Probably establish cache at hanging glacier at about 6500m, then to climb face in 5 or 6 days alpine-style. Speed on face depends on rock barrier 500m high at 7700-8200m. Will go right of barrier to West Pillar and then back to face.


  Wojciech Kurtyka - 20 Aug 86

  Kukuczka's successful route on Makalu in Oct 1981 was much further to the left than ridge climbed in Oct 1982 by Czok. Czok's route was more direct towards summit, Kukuczka's really via a spur short cutting ascent to normal routes C3 and thence he followed normal route.

  Hope 2 Poles by air to Tumlingtar 17 Aug and Alex on Friday 21st.
  Arrive BC about 1 Sept.
  Face climb 1st days of Oct.
  No Sherpas above BC; only a cook at BC.
  No oxygen.


  Letter from Arthur Haid - 24 Jan 1982

  As for the doubts to Mr. Kukuczka regarding the solo climb of Makalu I should like to advice that their are no doubts at all neither on my part nor on the part of our expeditions members that Mr. Kukuczka has been on the peak of Makalu 8481m.

  Mr. Voytek Kurtyka spoke to as on the 12th of Oct 1981 whether we should mind if his friend Kukuczka would eventually try to go on our route to the peak of the Makalu. Our expedition team did not mind at all. Sardar Ang Jangbu Sherpa was not present, only our liaison officer Mr. Karki did not quite agree with the plan of the Poles. I personally believe that these doubts have arisen in the Ministry of Tourism.

  Mr. Kukuczka left the basecamp on the 12th of Oct 1981 about no time. On the 13th October 1981 we saw him vanishing on the shoulder of Makalu Col. On Oct 14 and 15 Kukuczka stayed outside of our view. According to this statement he reached the peak on a route not yet gone so far.

  On the 16th of October 1981 I have been near camp I with Sherpa Lhakpa Dorje and we saw Mr. Kukuczka coming down from Makalu Col in direct descent. He looked exhausted and descended the same day to the base camp. On the 18th October 1981 we have been invited by the Poles in the base camp for a little peak-festival.

  As far as I am concerned as the expedition leader there is for me no doubt whatever that Mr. Kukuczka has reached the peak of the Makalu. It seems to me, that he is not the type of man who would say something that is not true. The members of the Polish expedition have made efforts really unique in the history mountaineering in their attempt to climb flank of Makalu.


expid: GAN281302
peakid: GAN2
year: 1981
route1: N Ridge-N Face
nation: W Germany
leaders: Hermann Warth
sponsor: Nepalese-German Ganesh Expedition
ascent1: 1st
bcdate: 1981-09-19
smtdate: 1981-10-16
smttime: 1330
campsites: BC(19/09,3900m),C1(21/09,5200m),C2(26/09,5900m),C3(07/10,6300m),Smt(16/10)
primid: GAN281301
routememo:
  This mountain previously known as Ganesh III until re-surveyed in early 1990's.

  Hermann Warth - Feb 82

  Climbing routes:
    1953 New Zealand   -  North Ridge
    1954 Japan         -  NW Ridge
    1971 Germany       -  NE Spur
    1980 spring Japan   - West Face to South Ridge
    1980 autumn Japan   - NE Spur
    1981 spring Japan   - West Face to South Ridge
    1981 autumn Germany - North Ridge to North Face
    1981 autumn Japan   - NE Spur to North Face


  Warth - 1 Nov 81

  Route = NE Spur to North Face
  BC - 3900m - 19 Sept
  C1 - 5200m - 21 Sept
  C2 - 5900m - 26 Sept
  C3 - 6300m -  7 Oct

  Summit 16 Oct 1/2 hour before Japanese by Warth and 3 Nepalese members; Ang Chepal 1st on top.

  My most difficult climb in Himalayas, more difficult than Shartse. Technical difficulty of grades 4 to 5; most difficult part was rock band at 6500m (70m high).

  No accidents, etc.


  Sharma, Tourism - 23 Oct 81

  Summit 16 Oct by  
    Ang Chepal Sherpa, 35, 1st man
    Na Temba Sherpa, 30
    Nima Tenzing Sherpa, 38
    Hermann Warth, 49

  C3 7 Oct 6360m. C3 at same place. Reached top 1:30 pm

  At C3 Japanese and German route join and agreed that Japanese NE Ridge, route very dangerous, so two parties made a C3 on 15 Oct. Japanese let Germans go ahead.


  Warth - 4 Aug 81

  Leave 7-8 Sept. 
  5 members Warth, 3 Sherpas and Warth's wife (not beyond 5900 C2)
  Route = North Ridge 
  Arrived BC after 14 days at 4000m at moraine of glacier
  No H-A porters [Sherpas nominal members for permit]
  3 camps above BC
  C3 about 6700m
  Summit about 15 Oct = 3 weeks climbing
  4 oxygen bottles for medical 
  KTM to Buri Ghat by truck and Gandaki Valley then east.


expid: LSHR81301
peakid: LSHR
year: 1981
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Joseph Fauchere
sponsor: Swiss Himalaya Expedition to Lhotse and Lhotse Shar
ascent1: 2nd
countries: Italy
approach: Lamosangu->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1981-09-15
smtdate: 1981-10-16
smttime: 1645
termdate: 1981-10-24
campsites: BC(15/09,5200m),C1(16/09,5800m),C2,C3,C4(7150m),Smt(16/10)
accidents: Leader Fauchere fell 30 metres to his death; Favre and Petten fatal falls from summit bid
routememo:
  Bruchez - 28 Oct 81

  Climbing route was SE Ridge. 

  16 Oct summit by Bruchez and Hauser on Lhotse Shar. Windy but good from C4 7150m. 6 people left C4. 2 Sherpas Ang Tshering and Pasang Rita, Favez and Petten went down from 8150m to C4 because it was late 2:30 pm and decided only 2 go up. Bruchez and Hauser reached top 4:45 pm and to C4 at 9:30 pm. 

  2 Sherpas to C3. 2 missing Swiss simply disappeared; saw bodies 3 days later (19 Oct) on SW Face of Lhotse Shar at about 6000m. Could not go to bodies because avalanche and rock fall on face all the time. Climbing now finished anyway because weather getting bad, very very windy. Traverse would not be possible now.

  Left BC 24 Oct. Next day leader had fatal fall of 30 meters on trail. 26 Oct police came from Namche.

  Traverse is possible to intermediate and main summits and down West Face, but do not recommend back to Shar.

  6 used oxygen above C4.
  No frostbite, had good equipment.


  Sharma Tourism - 22 Oct 81

  Swiss Lhotse and Lhotse Shar East Ridge

  16 Oct 2 members reached Lhotse Shar. 

  Top 16:45 hours: David Bruchez (28) and Jean Hauser (33); summiters returned to C3 same evening.

  While returning to C3 8150m after not going to top, 2 Sherpas arrived at C3 at 18:30 hours, but others Pierre Favez (38, army officer) and Philippe Petten (24, guide) did not return to C3 and until yesterday not seen. Missing as per messages from LO and leader expedition still searching for lost 2 members, message said. Date of message not known. 

  10 member expedition led by Fauchere.


  Fauchere - 25 Aug 81

  Route = East Face, new route
  BC on Lhote Shar Glacier at 5300m

  4 or 5 camps above BC; last camp at 8200m before from Lhotse Shar try to go to Lhotse Shar. No fixed camps after Lhotse Shar. Try to stay on ridge via Lhotse Intermediate.

  All 15 members in KTM. Leave 27 Aug by road to Lamosangu; trek 3 weeks to BC 
  Summit of Lhotse Shar 10-15 Oct and of Lhotse about 20 Oct.
  Oxygen bottles 
  5 Sherpas above BC
  Most difficult part of climb is Lhotse Shar to Lhotse Main.


expid: EVER81301
peakid: EVER
year: 1981
route1: S Pillar-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: John B. West
sponsor: American Medical Research Expedition to Everest (AMREE)
ascent1: 42nd,43rd
countries: Canada, India, Italy, UK
bcdate: 1981-08-30
smtdate: 1981-10-21
smttime: 1129
termdate: 1981-10-31
agency: Mountain Travel
campsites:
  BC(30/08,5400m),C1(12/09,6100m),C2(15/09,6400m),C3(24/09,7250m),C4(04/10,7530m),C5(11/10,8050m),Smt(21,24/10)

routememo:
  Chris Kopczynski - 1 Nov 81

  Re route up Pillar: Way we did it was more protected from avalanches from Cwm to Col, but took long time to set up platforms for camps. More ice: on Lhotse face in autumn can shovel snow away and this saves few vital days time.
   
  C3 protected by big rock from wind whereas Lhotse face C3 exposed to wind.


  Glenn Porzak - 1 Nov 81

  23,900 feet - 7285m C3 on water ice
  24,700 feet - 7530m C4 on snow
  26,500 feet - 8075m C5 above Col

  Never actually were on Col. C5 more protected from wind than would have been at Col but Porzak's big wind storm shredded 2 tents nonetheless. Traverse right from C4 and then straight up.


  Evans and West - 7 Nov 81

  Lhotse face is avalanche prone (though not many this season) so prefer pillar, etc). Canada's Pillar route for 1982 is possible, but real problem for campsites; a rock route, not ice.

  BC 17,700 feet - 30 Aug 
  C1 about 20,000 - 13 Sept top of Icefall
  C2 about 21,000 - 15 Sept
  C3 23,000 - 24 Sept near Poles C3
  C4 24,700 - 5 Oct to night of Poles' route
  C5 26,500 - 11 Oct above Col

  Pizzo found ice axe (probably Mrs Schmatz's) going up to summit. Hadn't his own and was using tent pole, thus fell way behind time table with problems getting route up to C5 from C2


  Shrestha, Tourism - 25 Oct 81

  Young Tenzing and Pizzo started from C5 at 6:30 am yesterday with oxygen and reached summit at 12:30 pm; stayed on top 30 minutes and researched wind temperature, mid pressure, ECG, sample of air from lungs collected; returned C5 8:00 pm. Why late at C5 because they rested at (1976 expedition's) camp.

  Hackett and Nuru Jangbu started for summit at 7:30 am from C5, but on way to top Nuru Jangbu felt very cold feet and turned back at 8:00 am. Hackett decided to go alone (used oxygen from C5) and reached top at 3:30 pm and probably at top 30 minutes. He also carried out research as others, then returned to C5 at 8:00 pm. Today all 4 were at C5 at 10:00 am and will return to C2 today and tomorrow to BC. Health of all good; wind not said; continuation of expedition not said. 


  Sharma, Tourism - 26 Oct 81

  No radio contact since yesterday 10:00 am; 3:00 pm yesterday missed and today's 10:00, 11:00 and 4:00 pm [missed].


  Sharma, Tourism - 24 Oct 81

  Young Tenzing and Nuru Jangbu went with Pizzo and Young Tenzing left C5 about 12:00 am; 12:30 pm reached summit and have started to go C5 but not reached C5 as of 3:00 pm.

  Nuru Jangbu did not attempt summit today; where he is not given. Hackett solo from C5 towards summit; not reached top, but very near top as of 3:00 contact; plans to return to C5 today.


  Sharma, Tourism - 24 Oct 81

  Because walkie-talkie, contact line really C5 contacts C3 and C3 to C2 and C2 to BC. BC knows nothing of today's movement. Weather in BC good but on South Col not known. 4 men reached South Col yesterday. 


  Sharma, Tourism - 23 Oct 81

  Today Pizzo and Hackett and 2 Sherpas left C2 for C5 and for summit; try tomorrow. Weather today good. 2 summiters of 21 Oct arrived BC 8:30 am today.



  David Jones - 23 Oct 81

  Absolutely certain if I hadn't got sick would have got to the summit. C5 established 12 Oct by Pizzo, Kopczynski, Jones and 2 Sherpas quite late in day in strong wind. 13 Oct Sungdare came up to C5. Late previous night got C5 up, so rest day and rehydration and 2 Sherpas didn't know how to look after themselves, 14 Oct going to try for summit. Jones up at 2:30 am first man out; so bitterly cold took an hour get warm inside tent where was -20 degrees centrigrade.

  Jones then got severe spasms altitude cough and couldn't go climbing that day - less than one day's food for four so Jones down towards C2. When got to C2 very sick with viral infection with high fever and aching joints and muscle which all stopped in 2 days. Then down to BC and slow recovery then after 5 days to late to start back up. "The summit is nice and it make to get to summit but carry back feeling it's been a nice experience and come back slowly you can't ask more of an expedition."

  Other 3 came down late in afternoon as winds too strong and too cold. Next to C5 Yogendra Thapa [2nd liaison officer], Porzak, Hackett and 3 Sherpas on 15 Oct very late. 16 Oct try to rest battered by bad storm (wind, no snow). Took them 2 days to come down head wall because some so weak.
   
  Jeff Lowe and Mike Weiss, Steve Boyer and Chris K and Sherpas to C3 on 18th Oct. 19th tried to go to C5 but winds drove them to C4. 20th to C5 - how many don't know. We all used oxygen sleeping at C5. Icefall getting worse everyday. 


  Sharma, Tourism - 22 Oct 81

  Chris and Sungdare used oxygen while climbing and also while sleeping at C5. Whether another team will try again not yet decided. Yesterday not windy and today also not windy at BC.


  Sharma, Tourism  22 Oct 81

  Chris Kopczynski and Sungdare Sherpa, 26 reached C5 20 Oct evening.

  21 Oct started toward six at 7:00 am from C5. Reached summit at 11:29 am and stayed there 1-1/2 hours in clear and not windy weather. Underwent several medical research tests at top - outdoor temp, wind pressure, ECG heart, test sample of lung's air. While climbing also did several test of themselves.

  After 1-1/2 hours at summit, descended to C3 late afternoon same day. Today are at C2 where will stay 1 day; excellent health. Use of oxygen not known.

  Other 6 did not reach C5 on 20 Oct and returned to C4; came down from C4 yesterday but not known where to. Other attempts not decided.


  Sharma, Tourism - 20 Oct 81

  Yesterday did not reach C5 because of winds; all 6 in C4. Today also windy. Until 11:00 am not started from C4 to go up but plan 8 to go to C5 today if still true and top tomorrow if wind permits. Ang Nima and Ang Tsering joined C4 yesterday and an now in attack party.


  Milledge and Blume - 19 Oct 81

  Virtually completed studies at C2 an exercise and sleep, blood sampling; blood samples being taken by Blume to Bakerfield for disturb to labs all over US and clinical Res Centre Harrow.
   
  Part of hut just too much to get it to C2 with Sherpa power summit teams haven't gotten much above Col if at all. 

  C2 at 20,500 feet. C4 left of Geneva Spur. Route essentially same as Poles except exits to Col instead of S Summit.


  Sharma, Tourism - 19 Oct 81

  18 Oct same 2 Sherpas and 4 members started for C5 from C2 but could not reach; some in C3 and C4. Today left at 8:00 am from both camps for C5 but will not attempt summit today but plan to try for summit tomorrow.


  Sharma, Tourism - 18 Oct 81

  Yesterday Porzak and Hackett and 4 Sherpas to C2 because high wind at Col; never went above Col though had planned to go to summit yesterday. Today 4 members and 2 Sherpas left C2 or C3 towards C5, reached C5 this afternoon. They are: 
    Stephen Boyer
    Jeff Lowe
    Chris Kopczynski
    Michael Weiss
    and Sungdare and Young Tenzing

  Weather in BC fine today and not windy. Health good.


  Sharma, Tourism - 15 Oct 81

  Six men at C5 last night started down this am: not reached C2 as of 11 am. Not decided whether will send others to C5 today but expedition plan to make summit attempt C5 and C3 empty today (and probaboly C4); men in C1 and C2 and BC.

  Very windy at South Col this am.
  How high they reached yesterday not known.


  Russell Brice - 14 Oct 81

  US Everest Geneva Spur; route between S Pillar and Spur.


  Sharma, Tourism - 14 Oct 81

  Reached? - very poor contact C5 and BC. 

  High winds: could not go to top and came down to Col. They will try again provided weather good including. Health good.


  Sharma, Tourism - 12 Oct 81

  C5 at 8000m 11th Oct by 2 Americans and 2 Sherpas
  Health good
  Today windy at C5 and they are in C5 today
  C5 established by 
  1) Chris Pizzo, 33 San Diego
  2) Chris Kopczynski, 33, Spokane
  3) David Jones, 34, Hydrologist, Vancouver
  4) & 5) Sherpas.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 5 Oct 81

  C4 Oct 4 7750m by Glen Porzak, Jeff Lowe
  Today 2 Americans and 2 Sherpas in C4; weather good 
  C4 is on right side of Geneva Spur.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 22 Sept 81

  Planned to make C3 on 21st Sept, but it was snowing, so hope to make it in today's good weather.


  23 Sept 81

  Making C3 today; weather fine


  24 Sept 81

  C3 not made yesterday; trying today.


  Sharma, Tourism - 16 Sept 81

  C2 15th Sept 6200m by 4 members. All in very good health weather very clear today. Temp at BC 11 degrees centigrade.
  C1 made by 12 members.


  Sharma, Tourism - 14 Sept 81
   
  C1 12 Sept 6100m C2 site selected, will be established 15th Sept.
  All well, weather good
  -31 degrees at night
  (from LO BC radio today)


  Bobby Chettri, MT - 8 Sept 81

  Bobby spoke on radio with Amree yesterday afternoon. All 600 loads taking time to arrive BC. No disaster causing delay in start of climb.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 7 Sept 81

  As of this morning's radio contact, climbing not yet started. Reason not given.


  Sharma, Tourism - 4 Sept 81

  BC established 30 Aug at 17,500 ft.
  All well, weather good
  Climbing not started but have made several surveys of Icefall.
  BC radio functioning.


  Evans, American Ev. - 3 Aug 81

  American Medical Res. Expedition to Everest
  PO Box #9038, Bakersfield, Californina
  Leader = John B. West, MD, Phd
  Deputy Leader = Duane Blume, Phd, Logistics
                = John P Evans, Climbing
  21 members including BC Mgr. Korich.
  8 not in climbing program.
  5 = Sr. scientists - 3 C2
  3 = Research assts or technicians 
  12 climbers

  6 are also medical scientists; data collection at S Col and above their primary responsibilities; will do all kinds of climbing chores as well. 6 strictly climbers.

  Overnight objective is to get scientific data from S Col, summit and below. Summit success but no data = failure; good data is vital and the chief goal; space age science is exciting goal.

  All 21 and LO Dr. Mingma Gyalzen leave KTM 6th Aug.
  High camp at S Col = C5

  Safer, faster and easier and more suitable for getting up equipment. Go to left of Geneva Spur; Swiss 1951 had problem finding camp space and did not have today's sophisticated climbing equipment. Also route ends at Col in sheltered area.

  No camp above col but will put in fixed rope above - will also have fixed rope from bottom of pillar to col.
  C1 - top of icefall
  C2 - mid-Cwm - used place ABC and lab
  C3 - 23,900 ft at foot of pillar where Poles had a camp 
  C4 - 24,700 ft - small camp temporary dump
  C5 - Col
  Acclimatization at Thyangboche and Pheriche


  BC - Sept 5, 1981

  Here is a brief report of our progress. The trek was more or less uneventful except that the problems of finding enough porters caused some of the loads to be greatly delayed. BC was established on Aug 30 well up toward the icefall. The icefall is not particularly difficult at this time and we expect to establish C1 tomorrow. C2 should be occupied 2 or 3 days later, so progress is good. The weather had been mainly overcast with many snow showers. Temperature is not especially cold - just below freezing. The base camp science laboratory is operational and the research program has begun.


  Letter from John B West - Everest C2

  By now you will have heard of the successful summit climbs by Kopczynski and Sherpa Sungdare on October 21. However only I had an opportunity of talking to Kopczynski about his climb in detail and thought you might like to have a few more facts.

  The two arrived at C5 (about 200 ft above the South Col) on October 20. They started preparing breakfast in the morning at about 3:45 am though the winds at C5 at that time was high (they estimated 45 mph) and they doubted whether a summit bid was possible. However they left camp at 7 am and were surprised to find that when they reached one of the gulleys above the Col, the wind was much less. They carried litte; Kop had one full bottle of oxygen while Sungdare had 2 initially but soon abandoned one. They had virtually no food (a candy bar or two) and Kop had quart of water.

  They made fast time right from the beginning partly because they were afraid that the wind might increase again. Near the top of the gulley they noted that only one hour and twenty minutes had elapsed. They saw the body of Frau Schmatz (from the previous German expedition in which Sungdare took part in a high rescue) but not the remains of Genet who also died there. Once they reached the ridge, they used the east side where the wind slab made for relatively very easy climbing.

  Until they reached the South Summit, the wind was not a particular problem. However from there to the true summit the wind was high. Also Kop commented that the final ridge was steep and dangerous. He was very glad to find that Sungdare was technically very skillful, especially with belays. The Hillary Step was very demanding and Kop found it very tiring.

  They reached the summit at 11:23 am - a very fast ascent. There was no sign of the Chinese tripod which was presumally burried by snow. The spent 20-30 minutes on the summit and Kop took almost 2 rolls of film.

  Both used oxygen all the way - up and down. This was the Hornbein equipment at setting #3. On the way down they found a tank left by the American Bicentinial expedition and Kop used this in the final stages.

  They estimated tht they they took 3 hours to get down to C5 where again the wind was extremely fierce. They then wend down to C4 where Kop had to lie down for a while because of stomach cramps. However Sungdare (and later Kop) went down to C3 and it was from here they radioed their success to C2 at about 4 pm.

  Kop previous best climb was on Makalu where he reached about 27,000 ft. Sungdare (from Pangboche) previously summited on Everest in 1979.


  Letter from John West - Sept 23, 1981

  The climbers are ahead of schedule as of this date. Today they hope to establish C3 on the headwall leading to the South Col. With a bit of luck it should then take them only 7-10 days to reach the Col itself.

  The science program is on schedule. The laboratory at BC has been working well for a couple of weeks and is productive. We have set up the laboratory for C2 and hope to have this working within the next 3-4 days.

  The weather has generally been good except for about a week of snow earlier this month. The icefall is in relatively good condition. Incidentally C2 is in a well protected place but is some 2 hours walk from the bergschrund at the head of the Cwm.

  There was a long delay between the mail that came by helicopter and that via the Kunde runner (Sept 22). We hope this can be avoided in future.


expid: DHA181301
peakid: DHA1
year: 1981
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Adolf Huber
sponsor: Austrian Dhaulagiri I Expedition
countries: W Germany
approach: Pokhara->BC
bcdate: 1981-09-11
smtdate: 1981-09-26
termdate: 1981-10-10
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to heavy snow fall
campsites: BC(11/09,4400m),C1(14/09,5100m),C2(16/09,5750m),C3(22/09,6800m),xxx(26/09,6900m)
routememo:
  Huber - 19 Oct 81

  All members will arrive KTM this evening and left 23 Oct; all Ok except 2 helicoptered out 3 weeks ago.

  4 days = 2m snow and C1, C2 and C3 all broken while occupied by wind and snow. In C2 in 4 days, unable to move. 27-30 Sept avalanche wiped out C1. BC also broken. High point about 6900m by Hausberger and Pockstaller; needed 3-4 more days to summit.

  Equipment all finished, thus after storm not possible to climb any more. Then kitchen boy became seriously ill and had to be carried down. Huber fell while carrying and broke ribs.


  Sharma Tourism - 12 Oct 81

  Dhaulagiri I Austria abandoned 30 Sept.

  C3 established 22 Sept; altitude 6800m because of heavy snowfall while trying to make route from C3 to C4, thought impossible to reach summit. 

  Left BC 10 Oct. All well.


  Huber - 18 Aug 81

  Arrived 17 Aug; all 9 arrived 
  Leave KTM 22 or 23 Aug to Pokhara by road; 2 weeks Pokhara to BC 
  BC to summit one month or little more 
  BC at 4400m 
  4 camps above BC; C4 at 7200-7300m
  4 Sherpas above BC
  Medical oxygen only (2 bottles only)


expid: MAKA81302
peakid: MAKA
year: 1981
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Arthur Haid
sponsor: Tirolean Himalayan Expedition 1981
approach: Dharan->Shipton Pass->Makalu BC
bcdate: 1981-09-10
smtdate: 1981-09-23
termdate: 1981-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to avalanches
campsites: BC(10/09,5400m),C1(16/09,6150m),C2(23/09,7000m),xxx(23/09,7000m)
routememo:
  Haid - 28 Oct 81

  5440m BC - 10 Sept
  6150m C1 - 15 Sept
  7000m C2 - 23 Sept
  Big snowstorm from 26th nights. 
  27th C2 members descended. 
  29th 2nd snowfall and big wind (BC 30 cm) so from C1 to BC.
  2 Oct tried to go from C1 to C2, but big avalanche hit 4 members, but not hurt.

  8 Oct abandoned after 7 Oct 1 member and 3 Sherpas went to see C2; 2 tents destroyed and too dangerous for avalanche and very strong winds, so never above C2.

  No accidents, frostbite illness
  Route was northwest side (it is not a ridge)


  Graebenweger - 26 Oct 81

  Expedition abandoned 8 Oct decided to stop; windy so late. Some supplies lost, but not so bad.
  Lot of avalanches in big storm.

  4 people in snow up to rocks. After could get to C2 at about 7000m; this highest point reached about 22 Sept C3 would have been at Col at 7400m, but never got to Col at all.

  No injuries of frostbite
  Left BC 20 Oct
  4 arrived 24 Oct, others after few days and those here now wait
  Graebenweger, Rabensteiner, Bluemel and Schoepf arrived KTM on 24 Oct; are at Trekkers Lodge.


  Sharma, Tourism - 26 Oct 81

  Austrian Makalu expedition abandoned 8 Oct after reaching 7000m which was C2 because of high winds since 29 Sept and frequent avalanches on route. Left BC 20 Oct. All well.


  Haid & Ljubanovic - 17 Aug 81

  Tirolean Himalaya Expedition 1981

  All arrived 14 Aug; not all baggage has arrived but hope to leave 22 or 23 Aug by road to Dharan; 20 days from KTM to BC.
  Route = northwest side, French 1955 standard route
  BC at 5300m 
  4 camps above BC
  C4 at about 8000m, higher the better
  6 Sherpas above BC
  Have oxygen for climbing, but some want to try without 
  Arrive BC about 8-10 Sept
  Summit late Oct, 4-6 weeks climbing


expid: NUMB81302
peakid: NUMB
year: 1981
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Guido Bumann
sponsor: Swiss Expedition to Numbur
bcdate: 1981-10-19
smtdate: 1981-10-23
campsites: BC(19/10,4800m),C1(21/10,4950m),xxx(23/10,5700m)
routememo:
  Bumann - 8 Nov 81

  Planned route was (NNE) North Ridge, not same as 1980 Japanese according to porter with both expeditions. Porters said Japanese went only to point 6595m north-northwest of Numbur; did not go beyond because too long.

  BC at Tsho Og Lake (same site as Japanese at 4800m)
  C1 at 4950m at "d" in Lumding Glacier of Schneider map on 21 Oct.

  Stopped at 5700m west of C1 on 23 Oct by Salzmann and Supersaxo. Stopped attempt because route too difficult long and technically difficult and dangerous from seracs falling. Intended to reach point 6595m and then point 6656m to summit. Would take 2-3 weeks and require more climbing equipment and time then expedition had; season finished 31 Oct.

  Initially planned to climb NNE Ridge but too dangerous from ice avalanches so moved westwards repeating Japanese route towards point 6595m. Looked at North Face, but too many seracs.
   
  No accidents, etc.


  Bumann - 14 Oct 81

  Approach from Lukla via Moro La and Lumding Kharka village
  BC near Lumding Tsho lake at 4800m
  Route = North Ridge (same as Japanese 1980? to NW Ridge)
  Leave KTM 16 Oct by air to Lukla (baggage went by porters).
  2 or 3 camps on mountain depending on place for camps, highest at about 6200m. 
  3 Sherpas above BC.
  Medical oxygen only.
  Return to KTM 7 Nov.


expid: EVER81303
peakid: EVER
year: 1981
route1: E Face
nation: USA
leaders: Richard Blum
sponsor: American Everest Expedition of 1981
countries: Austria, New Zealand
approach: Lhasa->Karta Valley
bcdate: 1981-08-28
smtdate: 1981-10-04
termnote: Abandoned at 6750m due to continuous snow
campsites: BC(28/08,5180m),C1(5485m),C2(5790m),C3(5915m),C4(6400m),xxx(6750m)
routememo:
  Scott Macbeth - 13 Nov 81

  Everest East Face

  Decision to come off was made 6 or 7 Oct by Reichardt.
  Roskelley, McCubbrey and Macbeth went away about 23-24 Sept, left mountain entirely.

  C1 Snow camp - 18,000 feet
  C2 Pinsetter - 19,000 feet
  C3 Raven's Roost - 19,400 feet 
  C4 Helmet Camp - 21,000-21,500 feet made about 20 Sept

  Yosemite-style climbing at 5 times elevation of Yosemite Valley, 65 degree-70 degree avalanches - at least 8000-9000 feet fixed rope. 6 Tibetan porters BC -> ABC for early part of time, then no other helpers. Several storms meant complete lack of consolidation of snow higher up so not sure wouldn't be slab avalanches and no where to hide above Helmet Camp if big slab avalanche came down and huge avalanche did come down to route of route 22 Sept and convinced Roskelley whole face completely unsafe, but others didn't agree led by Andy Harvard.

  Lowe had set up Helmet Camp with Macbeth. Above Helmet Camp, Reichardt, Lowe, Reid and Giller explored a bit but no higher camp established.


  Blum's Everest Expedition

  AMREE members in KTM 4-6 Aug 1981 said: 

  Blum team leave US about 16 Aug, fly to Lhasa, reached BC within about a week. Kennedy dropped out as member because of danger on East Face; definitely will climb East Face. Reichardt is still climbing leader. Talked with him not long before AMREE left USA.


  Scott Macbeth - 9 Dec 80

  Leave SFO early Aug
  BC at 17,500 ft about 7 Sept up Kharta Valley's end 
  Dump just before rock buttress 5 hours from fixed camps up face
  Route up East Face to SE Ridge between Col and Hillary Step.


expid: JANU81301
peakid: JANU
year: 1981
route1: W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Masayuki Shinohara
sponsor: Tokyo Tsuyukusa Mtn Club Jannu West Rib Expedition 1981
approach: Dharan->Yamatari Glacier BC
bcdate: 1981-09-28
smtdate: 1981-10-20
termdate: 1981-10-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to strong winds
campsites: BC(28/09,4800m),C1(04/10,5450m),C2(10/10,5900m),C3(15/10,6200m),xxx(20/10,7400m)
routememo:
  Yoshiga - 12 Nov 81

  BC 4800m - 28 Sept
  Route = West Ridge (French route)

  South Ridge 5000-6000m by crevasses and seracs; climbed 3 days to 530m and then realized too difficult and dangerous for Sherpa carries, so changed to French route (West Ridge).

  C1  4 Oct 5450m
  C2 10 Oct 5900m
  C3 15 Oct 6200m  (same camp moved each time)
     2 Sherpas carried only to C1, 3 members carried above
  15 Oct 6500m reached 
  16 Oct rested
  18-20 Oct rush attack from 6200m - bivs: 18th 6780m
  18 Oct strong wind, no sleep, holding everything down
  19 Oct late start, reached 6820m bivouac at 11:30 am, could see no bivouac site 
     above; again strong wind
  20 Oct all 3 members leave bivouac equipment and go for top; up snow face and 
     ridge to 7400m at 1:00 pm; late now and strong wind: 4-5 hours more to top 
     and no bivouac equipment, so back to 6820m bivouac
  21 Oct to C3
  22 Oct to BC

  Climbing finished; enjoyed climb; no accidents, frostbite
  No oxygen at all with expedition.


  Sharma, Tourism - 26 Oct 81

  Jannu West Rib abandoned Oct 21 because of strong wind. Had reached 7400m Oct 20. Leave BC between 26. 3 members led by Masayuki Shinohara.


  Ale, Tourism - 1 Oct 81

  BC 28 Sept 4800m on south side.
  1 Oct will begin climb
  Weather cloudy and snowing. All well


  Shinohara and Yoshiga - 25 Aug 81

  Route = West Ridge to Czechs SW Ridge from Yamatari Col to col on West Ridge
  BC on Yamatari Col at 5000m
  C1 at col on West Ridge - 6000m
  C2 on West Ridge - 6800m
  C3 on SW Ridge - 7400m
  Present expeditions West Ridge is a rib which joins Czechs Ridge at about 7000m
  All 3 members arrived KTM 23 Aug left 5 Sept by road to Dharan. 
  15 or 16 days to BC. Arrive BC 20-22 Sept, summit 25 Oct.
  Difficult route: most difficult between C1 and C2: very steep, and between C3 
    and summit: also very steep.
  3 Sherpas to C1 only.
  No oxygen at all.
   

  Tokyo Jannu West Rib Expedition 1981
  420-2 Nish Kuki-shi
  Saitama-ken, Japan
  Tokyo Tsuyukusa Mountain Club


expid: GAN281301
peakid: GAN2
year: 1981
route1: NE Spur-N Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Ken Kanazawa
sponsor: Nepal & Kyushu Dental College Alpine Association Himalayan Exp
ascent1: 2nd
bcdate: 1981-09-17
smtdate: 1981-10-16
smttime: 1400
campsites: BC(17/09,3800m),C1(22/09,4600m),C2(01/10,5400m),C3(06/10,6300m),Smt(16/10)
primid: GAN281302
routememo:
  This mountain previously known as Ganesh III until re-surveyed in early 1990's.

  Kanazawa - 29 Oct 81

  NE Ridge to North Ridge = route. Ridge joined at about 6300m and here German route joined Japanese (or rather vice versa) 

  BC 3800m 17 Sept
  C1 4600m 22 Sept
  C2 5400m  1 Oct after storm
  C3 6300m  6 Oct 

  Summit 10 days later: very steep rock band and ice face. 2 days rest at BC; but no food at high camp and they went down, so Japanese also down because Japanese had to give Germans precedence. Japanese arrived C3 1 day before Germans and fixed same rope above C3 before Germans arrived.

  Needed fixed rope all way to summit from C3; put in 1000m: Japanese and Germans alternating pitches at first all 4 Japanese and 3 Nepalese members started up from C3 with German 4 early morning. Then Japanese sirdar [Ang Phuri] wanted to turn back, so Kanazawa had to go back with him.

  No accidents, etc. 
  No oxygen 

  Japanese route simple and easy; German route more difficult technically, but perhaps more safe; Japanese route more difficult in Spring.


  Sharma Tourism - 23 Oct 81

  Joined Germans at C3 at 6360m on 15 Oct (had established C3 6 Oct). 16 Oct Japanese followed Germans to summit at 2:00 pm:
    Tendi Sherpa, 25
    Kirki Lama, 28
    All Japanese except leader Ken Kanazawa, 1945, dentist 
    1) Nobuhide Kuwahara, 1944, Tokyo, dentist
    2) Joji Nakamura, Fukuoka, 1948, dentist
    3) Nobuhiro Hase, 1956, Kekubunji, salesman


  Kanazawa - 3 Sept 81

  Last autumn Japanese route = present route = NE Ridge.

  Present expedition's C3 and Warth's camp very near at 6000m on snow plateau. From here same route to summit, so Japanese must wait for Warth to finish his attempt before they make their attempt to reach summit.

   
  Kanazawa - 30 Aug 81

  Approach via Buri Gandaki to Toragompa Khola to Toragampa Glacier.

  Want same North Ridge as 1980 autumn Japanese route, maybe same as Germans this season: Kanazawa proposes to Germans (Hermann Warth) they share route with Japanese behind Germans.

  Leave KTM 4 Sept
  Arrive BC at 3900m about 18 Sept
  Start climb 24 Sept 
  C4 highest about 6500m
  Summit about 20 Oct and return, KTM 2 Nov
  4 Japanese and 3 Nepalese members (Nepalese = Sherpas)
    [Sherpas nominal members for permit]
  3 H-A Sherpas also (to C1 or C2 only)
  No oxygen at all


expid: AMAD81302
peakid: AMAD
year: 1981
route1: N Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yutaka Watai
sponsor: Himalaya Expedition of Fujinomiya Alpine Club
bcdate: 1981-10-12
smtdate: 1981-10-23
termdate: 1981-10-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to lack of food followed by bad weather
accidents: Kobayashi had frostbite on his toes
campsites:
  BC(12/10,5200m),ABC(15/10,5365m),Biv1(21/10,5600m),Biv2(22/10,5800m),Biv3(23/10,6000m),xxx(25/10,6000m)

routememo:
  Kobayashi - 3 Nov 81

  6000m reached; reached French or New Zealand high camp and about 2 pitches higher on North Ridge.

  BC 5200m 12 Oct established ABC (5365m) made 15 Oct but no one stayed in it. No permanent camp above BC; 3 snowholes 5600m on 21 Oct, 5800m on 22 Oct and 6000m on 23 Oct; all snowholes made by all members climbing together. Then food finished, all down to 5600m. Kobayashi goes down with leader leaving other 3 to carry food up on 25 Oct. Then 2 days bad weather and 3 stayed in 5600m and 27th down to BC

  27th all down in BC and expedition finished. 2 members must go back to Japan. Route may difficult and all climbing equipment finished. Route more difficult than expected above ABC: snow wall and snow ridge very difficult needing more fixed rope and pitch than expected and supply ran out. Kobayashi down on 25th with frostbitten toes both feet (will heal, not black). Other members well, no frostbite, no accidents.

  Others now in Lukla waiting for plane; maybe in KTM 7 Nov.


  Katoh - 23 Sept 81

  Leave 26 or 27 Sept by charter to Lukla. Arrived BC about 5 Oct via Chhukung and Ama Dablam Glacier. BC at 5000m on Ama Dablam Glacier.

  Route = South-North Ridge, same as French 1979, New Zealand 1980 and Australia 1981.

  1 fixed camp at about 6000m
  15-20 days on summit after arrive BC
  No climbing Sherpas and no oxygen at all

  Above 6000m most difficult requiring some fixed rope. Have 200m fixed rope - 45 degree slope and don't want to use rope but maybe will need to use some.


  Muraoka - 17 Sept 81

  Route = North Ridge = '80 autumn New Zealand leader and 3 arrived today. Leave KTM early next week on foot in 3 weeks to BC acclimatization on small peaks en route.

  BC about 5200m on Ama Dablam Glacier.

  Route include very steep wall. Hope to climb alpine-style but depends on condition of ridge. Maybe need 3 fixed camps with C2 at 6500m, C1 5900m, perhaps no Sherpas above BC. No oxygen at all.

  The Himalaya Expedition of Fujinomiya Alpine Club 

  About 12 days climbing period BC - summit

  Will ask HMG for extension of permit into November.


expid: DORJ81301
peakid: DORJ
year: 1981
route1: W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kunio Kataoka
sponsor: NMA-Hosei University Joint Expedition to Dorje Lhakpa
ascent1: 1st official
countries: Nepal
bcdate: 1981-09-13
smtdate: 1981-10-18
smttime: 1145
termdate: 1981-10-21
campsites: BC(13/09,4750m),C1(21/09,5350m),C2(26/09,6250m),Smt(18/10)
routememo:
  Kataoka - 28 Oct 81

  Ministry of Tourism camp and summit data correct after C2; much snow 27-29 Sept and BC have 40 cm and above more probably. All in C1 or on 28 Sept down to BC.

  West Ridge no avalanches.

  Then Nepali members left expedition. They complained food no good, but 2 of them not strong enough. So leader and Nepalese came back to KTM and leader recruited another Nepali member (Pemba Tshering). Luckily expedition had time and food for this. Leader and Pemba Tshering arrived BC 14 Oct. While away, others maintained route and bought food in Langtang village.

  15 Oct 2 members Murakami and Shingyoji making route and 16 Oct all other members had new Nepali member started up.

  Uchimura in 2nd party stopped 100m below summit because he was tired; also very strong wind and very cold; he returned to camps with 1st party. All snow and ice climbing, no rock, lot of ice especially after storm late Sept which made it difficult. 40-degrees steepness; fixed rope near C1 only. Found no signs of any previous expeditions.

  No accidents, illness, frostbite. All returned KTM 27 Oct.

  Used oxygen in C1 for 1 minute, Uchimura in early stage of expedition.


  Sharma, Tourism - 26 Oct 81

  Dorje Lhakpa - West Face joint Hosei-Nepalese expedition.
   
  Oct 18 summit - started from C2 6250m at 4:00 am and on top 11:45 am, stayed on top 10 minutes only because high wind at summit and returned to C2 at 5:00 pm. They were Pemba Tshering (38, of Namche), 1st on on top, 2nd Kazunari Murakami (1955, Tokyo engineer), 3rd Eiichi Shingyogi (1957, car repairman of Tokyo) in 1st group; at 12:40 pm same day another group, 1st Kunio Kataoka (1954, truck driver and expedition leader of Tokyo) and 2nd Makoto Anbe (1957, student), reached summit from C2 and returned to C2 at 6:00 pm. Also on top only 10 minutes because very high wind. To leave BC Oct 21.

  5 Japanese and 4 Nepalese members. 3 Nepalese left early ostensibly because didn't like food [but really because Nepalese members and porters being given same wages].


  Shrestha, Tourism - 9 Oct 81
    
  C2 26 Sept 6250m. Leader and sirdar came to KTM; left BC 30 Sept and returned after 4-5 days (now in KTM).


  Katoaka - 11 Aug 81

  Permission received 5 members and 3 Nepali members; other Japanese arrived KTM.
  Leave 5 Sept on 5-days caravan via Trisuli Bazaar and Trisuli River and 
    Langtang Khola to BC. 
  BC 4900m on 13 Sept 
  2 camps above BC, maybe 3: C1 5300m, C2 6200m
  Route = West Ridge, same as Earl of Shaftesbury (who went to 6300m)
  Start climb after acclimatization and sorting about 20 Sept.
  Summit about 18 Oct.
  Most difficult part of route is above 6300m where crevasse and hanging glacier 
    and very steep
  No H-A porters. Sherpa members: Ang Tendi, Ang Pasang, Phu Dorje
  Oxygen medical only

  1 month ago Kataoka did recce to col 5880m just east of Dorje Lhakpa; C1 will be at col.
  Hosei University-NMA Joint Expedition to Dorje Lhakpa 1981.

  Sponsored by Himalayan Association of Japan.


expid: KTEG81301
peakid: KTEG
year: 1981
route1: SE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Masanori Miyano
sponsor: Japanese Workers Alpine Federation Takamatsu Kangtega Exp 1981
approach: Lukla->Hinku Valley
bcdate: 1981-10-13
smtdate: 1981-10-16
termdate: 1981-10-19
termnote: Abandoned at 5500m because 1 member sick but now OK
campsites: BC(13/10,5100m),xxx(16/10,5500m)
accidents: Hayashi became seriously affected by altitude sickness
routememo:
  Miyano - 27 Oct 81

  All Ok; Hayashi got altitude sickness but now Ok.

  BC 13 Oct at 5100m. 1 6 Oct all back down in BC. Iga and Miyano reached 5500m on Kangtega Glacier on 16 Oct. Hayashi became sick same day and he was carried to Tangnag. Expedition finished. No more time and plan was for all members to climb mountain together.

  Route was to be SE Face (same as Hillary expedition) never reached face. 


  Sharma, Tourism - 22 Oct 81

  Abandoned 19 Oct because 1 member sick but now Ok (name not known)
  Miyano, 1948 = leader
  While trying for C1, Hayashi got sick and expedition quit.


  Miyano - 29 Sept 81

  Route = SE Face, same as New Zealand.
  Approach via Tangnag, Din Kharka, up Hinku Nup Glacier to BC near "K" 
    in Hinku Nup Glacier in Shorong Himal Schneider map.

  BC at 4900m
  C1 up Kang Taiga Glacier at 5200m
  C2 6200m near "K" of Kang Taiga Glacier on Schneider map
  2 Sherpas above BC
  Oxygen medically only
  Leave KTM 3 Oct by air to Lukla
  Arrive BC 10 Oct, summit 21 Oct
  Japanese Workers Alpine Federation Takamatsu Kangtega Expedition 1981
  2 members in KTM, 2 others arrive 1 Oct.


expid: LANR81301
peakid: LANR
year: 1981
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hideyuki Uematsu
sponsor: NMA-HAJ Joint Expedition to Mt Langtang Ri 1981
ascent1: 1st,2nd
countries: Nepal
bcdate: 1981-09-20
smtdate: 1981-10-10
smttime: 1120
termdate: 1981-10-14
campsites: BC(20/09,4940m),C1(22/09,5550m),C2(30/09,6450m),C3(03/10,6630m),Smt(10-11/10)
routememo:
  Yamada & Uematsu - 22 Oct 81

  BC 4940m 20 Sept
  C1 5500m 22 Sept
  C2 6450m 30 Sept right after big storm
  C3 6630m  3 Oct
  Summit 10 Oct by Yamada, Wakao, Nasu and Ang Rinji Sherpa
  Summit 11 Oct by Iizawa and Nakaoka

  Route was South Ridge; sharp snow ridge C2 to top so little difficult; this route the least difficult on the mountain.

  Avalanches not problem, but lot of snow in big storm at end of of Sept: at C1 8 members had 1.5m snow and busy shovelling it away. After C3 established, all down to BC for rest 2-3 days, then up to summit. 10 Oct first summit attempt.

  Oxygen never used.
  No accidents, frostbite or illness.
  Route really not so difficult, but needs fixed rope.


  Sharma, Tourism - 18 Oct 81

  Langtang Ri 7239m opened this May
  Virgin peak; its expedition led Hideyuki Uematasu
  Summit reached from SW Ridge
  Oct 10 and 11 by 6 people total

  1st man to step on summit at 11:20 am 10 Oct was:
    Ang Rinzi Sherpa, 27, representative of NMA
  Next:
    Noburu Yamada, 1950, Numata, Gunma
    Makihiro Wakao, 1949, Nagano
    Soichi Nasu, 1952, Nagai, Yamagata

  Japanese and Nepalese flags and photos of TM's
  Left C3 (6630m established on 30 Oct) in morning; stayed on top 40 minutes, took photos; returned to C3 same day.

  Oct 11 summiters were:
    Minoru Iizawa, 1950, Nagai, Yamagata
    Isashi Nakaoka, 1949, Sakai, Ibaragi Meiji
  Returned to C3 same day

  Oct 14 leaving BC, according to LO letter that morning; arrive KTM after 4-5 days.


  Wakao & Kikuchi - 11 Aug 81

  Route= SW Ridge
  Langtang Ri never attempted before; at border, are of Nepalese highest unclimbed peaks 
  2nd Japanese member arrived KTM 22 Aug and other 4 arrived 31 Aug
  3 Nepalese members
  Leave KTM about 10 Sept
  Trisuli Bazaar to Trisuli River to Langtang Khola to Langtang Glacier
  BC 5100m on Langtang Glacier
  Route to col at 5760m end of Chusundo Peak (6508m) to Tilman's Col
  C1 at Tilman's Col 5670m col
  Thence along SW Ridge with 2 more camps 
  C3 at about 6800m
  Arrive BC 21-22 Sept
  Summit about 15-20 Oct
  Wakao did recce to Tilman's Col a month ago and says route looks easy
  1 HA porter
  Oxygen for medical


expid: ANN181301
peakid: ANN1
year: 1981
route1: S Face (pillar E of Brit 70 route & W of
route2: Polish rte Spr 81 to central summit)
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiroshi Yoshino
sponsor: 1981 Tokyo Himalayan Expedition to South Wall of Annapurna I
ascent1: 10th
approach: Pokhara->Annapurna Sanctuary
bcdate: 1981-08-28
smtdate: 1981-10-29
smttime: 1530
accidents: Yasuji Kato fatal fall
campsites:
  BC(28/08,4060m),C1(07/09,5000m),C2(15/09,5500m),C3(24/09,6150m),C4(13/10,7100m),C5(24/10,7600m),Smt(29/10)

routememo:
  Sasaki & Yoshino - 15 Nov 81

  31 Oct Kato and Endo missed route in half hour. Kato 1st going up and Endo delayed 30 minutes. Endo at 10:00 am saw Kato's footprints and slip mark where Kato fell, then blizzard and Endo returned to C5 at 2:00 pm.

  1 Nov Endo to C4 where leader and 2 members were. Climb was very difficult and rock broken easily. Not much snow on face; mostly ice and rock. Snow and ice avalanches thrice at C2 from Polish route. 1st time 3 tents broken and some equipment missing, 2nd time 1 tent broken and 1 member slightly injured. 

  Most difficult to fix rope. C2 to C5 all fixed rope. Did not go to middle summit - to top of face and thence to main summit.

  Oxygen never used.

  Above C3 no Sherpas able to climb, so members must carry all supplies up this plus big storm at end of Sept is reason why so long to reach C4.

  All members have bruised legs from daily rock fall.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 6 Nov 81

  Yasuji Kato, 32, electrical engineer Kawasaki, reported last from 31 Oct at 5:50 am. At 11:00 am their members lost contact with this pair via walkie-talkie.

  1 Nov Endo alone came back C4 6600m and informed that at 11:00 am 31 Oct they lost their way due to snow blizzard when they were between C5 and top; only one walkie-talkie was with Kato.

  All others in good health.
  Then 2 reached summit on 29 Oct
  LO message sent 3 Oct
  31 Oct last climbing date 


  Sharma, Tourism - 2 Nov 81

  C5 7300m - date?
  29 Oct Yukihiro Yanegisawa (26 Tokyo) and Hiroshi Aota (23 Tokyo) without oxygen to summit. Started from C5 at 7:00 am and reached top 3:30 pm, planted Nepal and Japanese flags and stayed 10 minutes, returned C5 7:00 pm same day - well.

  Leader and 4 other members would attempt summit - date?


  Sharma, Tourism  - 4 Sept 81

  BC established 28 Aug at 4060m. Members condition "so-so", weather not good.


  Yoshino - 11 Aug 81

  12 members: 11 in KTM and other 15 Aug
  Leave 20 Aug to Pokhara by road and 8 days caravan to South Face 
  Route South Face, last British and Polish routes
  BC - 4200m
  C5 - 7500m
  6 H-A Sherpas
  Oxygen medical only
  Start climb 1 Sept, summit mid-Oct

  Route same difficulty and steepness as Polish and more than British.

  Route on ridge between Polish and British to col between wind and main summits and thence to main summit.

  Had planned route Poles climbed, then shifted to different one when learned of Poles success one month ago.
   
  BC in Sanctuary altitude same site as British.

  Tokyo Himalayan Expedition 1981, etc.

  No sponsor: private funding (by Yeti A)


expid: HIME81301
peakid: HIME
year: 1981
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Ken Hashimoto
sponsor: Nihon University Himalchuli Expedition 1981
approach: Dumre->Dordi Khola->Dordi Glacier
bcdate: 1981-09-01
smtdate: 1981-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to bad weather and shortage of food
campsites:
  BC(01/09,3870m),C1(07/09,5020m),C2(15/09,5620m),C3(24/09,6050m),C4(06/10,6500m),C5(10,6940m),C6(16/10,7280m),xxx(24/10,7600m)

routememo:
  Hashimoto & Matsuno - 7 Nov 81

  C2 to C3 planned site very long and narrow so made intermediate camp and C4 at C3's site. 
  Route same as that planned for SW Ridge.

  Highest point = 7600m by Matsumo and Watanabe on very difficult rock face. 1 day 2 pitches (100m) only gained on 24 Oct, last day of climbing. Next day bad weather: snow and wind. Kono and Hashimoto tried to go to C6, but wind blew Kano over at 7200m (did not fall but just lay down). Climbing finished.

  Japanese C2 to C4 difficult also. 
  No accidents, etc.

  Last autumn US party were on same route. Made BC at Japanese C1. Reached about 5800m; could not go beyond about 5800m because very difficult. Then tried another way to SW Ridge but avalanche stopped them before able to reach ridge. This was told by village people and Matsuno found their fixed rope and nuts at 5620m. 

  [Ed. note: perhaps villagers are confusing this expedition with the 1979 American expedition that also attempted the Himalchuli by two different routes.]


  Hashimoto - 18 Aug 81

  SW Ridge = unclimbed route, what Tourism calls South Ridge and what 1981 spring expedition tried to reach though spring expedition came from east (from Chhuling Glacier) whereas present team from south.
   
  All in KTM: arrived 7 and 16 Aug, leave KTM 21 Aug by road to Dumre, Dordi Khola to BC on Dordi Glacier at 3800m. 10-12 days caravan to BC or BC 1 or 2 Sept.

  C5 at 7200m probably highest camp, but a C6 at 7650m, a deposit camp with oxygen and biv tent; for attack party from C5 to spend summit night in, unable to reach C5 same day.

  Most difficult part of route above 7000m, overhang from 7200-7500m.
  Use oxygen sleeping only, not attack time.
  8-10 days acclimatization from BC. 
  Summit 40 days from end of acclimatization. 
  6 Sherpas above BC.
  1958 and 1959 expeditions on Himalchuli were from Nihon Univ also.
  No recce, 1 attack.


expid: GANG81301
peakid: GANG
year: 1981
route1: NW Ridge-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yuichi Suzuki
sponsor: Meiji University Sundai Alpine Club Gangapurna Expedition
bcdate: 1981-09-13
smtdate: 1981-09-26
termdate: 1981-10-03
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to fatal avalanche
campsites: BC(13/09,5000m),C1(21/09,5950m),C2(25/09,6750m),xxx(26/09,7000m)
accidents: Sakamoto and Suzuki killed by avalanche at C2
routememo:
  Tsunoda - 11 Oct 81

  BC 5000m
  C1 5950m 21 Sept
  C2 6750m 25 Sept on NW Ridge by Tsunoda and 2 and returned to C1 same day
     (Suzuki and Sakamoto to C2 26 Sept)

  29 Sept avalanche from 6:00-8:00 am snow slide. C2 hit and buried but not swept away; only 2 members [Suzuki and Sakamoto] in C2. 30 Sept Tsunoda and 2 others from C1 to C2. Left C1 7:00 am, but very dangerous, much snow and snow slides below C2. Went to 6600m only and returned to C1. 27-29 Sept snowing 3 days and could not move.

  Walkie-talkie 29 Sept 1st radio call at 6:00 am C1 to C2 Tsunoda talked with both by walkie-talkie. They said from C2 very much snowing. "After talking I think accident." Talked only 2-3 minutes; next contact 8:00 am and no talking.
   
  Tsunoda saw or heard nothing of avalanche. All day 29 Sept tried contact but no contact. Other 2 members coming with baggage after 3 days. 1 Oct 3 members from C1 again at 7:00 pm. 1 hour searched for C2. Cannot see tent but 2m below snow found C2 = only tent. Found Akira Suzuki's body, but Sakamoto's not found.

  Very strong wind at C2 on 1 Oct and only 3 men so could not carry down body, very dangerous. Returned to C1 at 3 pm. Left Suzuki body in between snow which was very deep and hard. 2 Oct 3 members and 3 Sherpas returned to BC and expedition finished.
   
  First planned to make 4 camps above BC but changed to only 3 camps because route not so difficult. Planned summit 7 or 8 Oct after making route in difficult attack area and after rest. No avalanche before 29 Sept.

  If no accident "I think" would have reached summit. 
  10 years ago expedition this route reached 7000m.


  Ranjan Express - 8 Oct 81

  Message from Tsunoda:

  C2 6750m 29 Sept was seized with snowing could not carry down their bodies. We finished expedition. Arrive KTM 10 Oct

  Leader went only to BC and returned to Japan. Left KTM 26 Sept for Japan, must have left BC about 14 Sept.


  Sharma, Tourism - 5 Oct 81

  Gangapurna Meiji Univ. Sardai
  Takeshi Sakamoto, born 10/30/51
  Akira Suzuki, born 03/07/57, ex-Tokyo, student 
  Both reported dead on 29 Sept by L0
  Expedition abandoned. 
  No further details. No camp news above BC.


  Tsunoda - 11 Aug 81

  2 Japanese here now, 4 more arrived 20 Aug
  Leave KTM 23-24 Aug for Dumre, caravan route Kudi
  Darapani-Pisang-Manang to Gangapurna Glacier
  Route = NW Ridge, unclimbed. Japanese 10 years ago tried it to about 7000m
  Gangapurna never climbed from North.
  BC in Gangapurna Glacier, 5000m
  C1 5300m on glacier
  C2 6000m
  C3 6800m - 1st camp on ridge
  C4 7000m - final camp
  C1 to C3 on snow ridge
  C3 to C4 is rock ridge (is NW Ridge) 
  C3 to C4 most difficult, saw-tooth rock ridge, C4 to top again snow ridge and
     think not so difficult but no one has climbed this part
  3 Sherpas above BC
  2 oxygen medical only
  Arrive BC 10 Sept; summit about 20 Sept
  Return to KTM 30 Oct


expid: MANA81302
peakid: MANA
year: 1981
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Yasuo Kato
sponsor: Japan Olympus Manaslu Expedition (Yeti Dojin Group)
ascent1: 14th,15th
bcdate: 1981-10-01
smtdate: 1981-10-12
smttime: 1640
campsites: BC(01/10,4600m),C1(05/10,5900m),C2(07/10,6500m),C3(11/10,7150m),Smt(12,14/10)
accidents: Kato's toes very badly frostbitten
routememo:
  Kato, Tomita & Ozaki - 20 Oct 81

  Ozaki on 12 Oct to summit above from C3 at 7150m; other 2 climbers on top 2 days later. Sherpas to C2 only and not staying there.

  Kato again frostbite from 1973; maybe on summit day which very cold, returned to C3 6:50 pm and after dark.

  Kato skied from C3 to C2. Wanted to ski from summit if had C4, but C4 not made because direct climb possible but very long. Came by helicopter today.

  BC -  1 Oct after storm 4600m
  C1 -  5 Oct - 5900m
  C2 -  7 Oct - 6500m
  C3 - 11 Oct - 7150m

  12 Oct bad weather. Kato and Ozaki reached plateau. Ozaki kept on going and Kato waiting at plateau 7800m. Ozaki had camera and food, Kato film and walkie-talkie. Left C3 8:00, arrived plateau 11:30 am, at summit 4:40 pm and returned 6:00 pm. Kato waiting until 3:30 pm and returned to C3 about at C3 7:30 pm

  13 Oct Ozaki to BC, Kato stayed in C3 and Tomita C2 to C3.
  14 Oct Tomita and Kato to summit.
  No oxygen to BC at all.


  Sharma, Tourism - 18 Oct 81

  Summit via NE Face (standard route) by leader who scaled Everest twice, Kato and Masaaki Tomita without oxygen from C3 (14 Oct left C3 and returned to C3 same day). 4 members total, others not climbers.


  Tomita - 14 Sept 81

  Route = NE Face (normal route)
  Approach via Sama village
  BC higher than 1976 Japanese-Iran
  BC 4950m 30 Sept
  C1 5900m  3 Oct -  5 Oct
  C2 6500m  5 Oct -  8 Oct
  C3 7150m  9 Oct - 14 Oct, established 9 Oct go down, reoccupy 14 Oct
  C4 7650 on summit plateau 15 Oct
  Ski down from summit by 3 members from 25m below top which is rock
  All 4 now in KTM
  Leave KTM 15 Sept; 2 weeks to BC so arrived BC 30 Sept
  Summit 16 Oct
  4 Sherpas above BC; oxygen medical only


expid: NILS81301
peakid: NILS
year: 1981
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Sohei Suzuki
sponsor: Tohan Club Kyudoshin of Tokyo Nilgiri South Peak Expedition 1981
approach: Pokhara->Mristi Khola
bcdate: 1981-09-12
smtdate: 1981-10-12
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to Suzuki's accident
campsites: BC(12/09,4000m),C1(14/09,4800m),C2(03/10,5600m),C3(11/10,6000m),xxx(12/10,6100m)
routememo:
  Suzuki - 27 Oct 81

  Suzuki hit back of heal and left forearm by falling rocks and 2 times but now completely healed. Head bled for 2 hours, then stopped and went down alone; other member above and could not support him; was about mid-way up to C2 at 5300m; went down to BC. Accident 12:00, started down 2:00 pm and at BC 4:00 pm, was not wearing helmet, only day not wearing it (thought route so safe), was 15 Oct.

  BC 12 Sept at 4000m
  C1 14 Sept at 4800m
  C2  3 Oct  at 5600m after stone
  C3 11 Oct  at 6000m

  Went about 100m above C3 on 12 Oct by Suzuki and Machida, then needed rest before summit attempt. No plan for C1.

  15 Oct Suzuki and Machida were going for summit attempt (Tanaka in BC with alitude sickness) when accident happened. Were to sleep in C2 that night and go to top next day. Fixed rope already in place and 2 climbers moving separately when accident happened.

  5:00 pm walkie-talkie contact and Machida hears what happened and next morning went down; "solo climb impossible for him, he is too young."

  Route was SW Ridge; very difficult knife-edge which cover rest on sitting down and every where loose rock so very difficult to fix rope (one point, 4 pitons necessary).

  Expedition finished: Machida cannot go up alone, Tanaka sick, Suzuki hurt, Machida's vacation ending and he must return to Japan. Suzuki and Machida could have gone to summit after 1 week if Machida could have stayed longer.

  No frostbite, no other accidents.
  No oxygen at all.
  Tanaka and Suzuki arrived KTM yesterday and Machida yesterday.
   

  Sharma, Tourism - 20 Oct 81

  Nilgiri South Japan SW Ridge, 3 members, abandoned
  Made C1  3 Oct 5400m
  Made C2 12 Oct 6000m

  15 Oct 3 members started from BC towards high camps for leader at 5200m 15 Oct injured at 12:30 pm after climbing 1 hour from BC. Injured by rock fall on his head and bled for 1 hour. They went to BC and arrived 16:00 hrs at 4700m after treatment in BC, wound okay but decided to abandon climb.

  Leave BC very soon.


  Tanaka - 17 Aug 81

  2 arrived yesterday, leader arrived 22 Aug
  Route = SW Ridge (new route)
  Caravan to Lete and Mristi Khola to BC south of Nilgiri South
  Leave for Pokhara 29 or 30 Aug, caravan 12-14 days
  BC at 4200m south of Pokhara
  3 camps above BC
  C3 6200-6300m = SW Ridge
  C2 5300 on col between South Pokhara and point 5595m
  C1 4700m
  No Sherpas above BC 
  No oxygen at all
  Most difficult part from C2 to C3 on ridge, rock pinnacles: saw tooth ridge
  Above C3 crevasses
  Arrive BC about 12 Sept
  Summit about 15th Oct

accidents:
  Suzuki was hit by a rock on the back of his head and on his left foreaem; Tanaka suffered from altitude sickness


expid: AMAD81102
peakid: AMAD
year: 1981
route1: N Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Ken McMahon
sponsor: Australian Himalayan Expedition 1981
ascent1: 16th
countries: Canada, USA
approach: Karantichap->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1981-04-11
smtdate: 1981-05-15
smttime: 1200
termdate: 1981-05-21
campsites:
  BC(11/04,5100m),C1(20/04,5500m),C2(24/04,5800m),C3(03/05,6100m),C4(13/05,6500m),Biv(14/05,6700m),Smt(15/05)

routememo:
  5 members including 3 summiters - 26 May 81

  BC - 11 April - 16,800 feet
  C1 - 20 April - 18,000 feet
  C2 - 24 April - 19,000 feet
  C3 -  3 May   - 20,000 feet
  C4 - 13 May   - 21,200 feet

  14 May bivouac in snowhole at 22,000 by summit trio.

  15 May to summit midday and back to C4; arrived C4 at 10:00 pm without fixed ropes climbing on flat section in bad snow conditions.

  North Ridge - first 2 successes took right-hand spur and Aussies took an eastern spur. Route originally attempted by 1959 British (found old ropes and rusty pitons) for 1/3 of climb.

  More difficult than expected due to snow conditions; much would have been different and perhaps easier in post-monsoon when would have been deeper snow.

  Only one summit attempt:

  1 not acclimatized
  1 chest infection (McMahon)
  3 left for summit attempt

  No avalanche danger, no glacier
  Approach to this route = safe route but bad weather and difficult climb
  No accident, no frostbite


  Pluth - 26 May 81

  Summiters were Hall, Henderson and Macartney-Snape on 15 May
  Only they are summit party; all in very good condition
  5 arrived today; rest later today or tomorrow


  McMahon - 26 March 81

  Karen Robins has dysentery so she and McMahan fly to Lukla 30th and wait there for rest of expedition, who left this am for Kirantichap and start walking to Khumbu tomorrow.


  Whole team - 22 March 81

  Route = North Ridge (same as New Zealand and French)
  Leave 26 March; walking from Kirantichap

  Arrive BC 10 April east of Col (5365m on Schneider map)

  2 or 3 camps above BC with highest at 22,000 feet 

  Summit early May but one month on not depending on weather. 
  No Sherpas above BC.
  No oxygen at all.

  Australian Himalayan Expedition 1981


expid: GANG81101
peakid: GANG
year: 1981
route1: S Face
nation: Canada
leaders: John Lauchlan
sponsor: Gangapurna 1981
ascent1: 5th
approach: Pokhara->Modi Khola->Annapurna Sanctuary
bcdate: 1981-03-28
smtdate: 1981-04-30
smttime: 1500
termdate: 1981-05-03
accidents: All members have frostnipped toes
campsites:
  BC(28/03,4000m),Acclim.C(07/04,4570m),ABC(10/04,5190m),Snowcave(15/04,5480m),Berg.C(20/04,5940m),TopofSnowCave(23/04,6550m),SeracBiv(27/04,6860m),RockBiv(28/04,6950m),MiserableBiv(29/04,7070m),Smt(30/04)

routememo:
  Lauchlan - 11 May 81

  28 March BC at 13,500 ft 
   7 April acclimatazation to 15,000 ft 
  10 April ABC at 17,000 ft 
  15 April snow cave at 18,000 feet 
     4 day's storm with very strong wind: hence in cave, could hardly stand up
  20 April bergschrund camp at foot of face at 19,500 ft
     Alpine-style without fixed ropes, food getting low
  23-27 April three days in bad storm at top of 20,000 ft and ice snow cave at 
     foot of rock band at 21,500 feet 
  27 April Congdon and McNab went down; 
     Lauchlan and Blench up into rock band where climb started to get difficult 
     with some 80-degree ice; seracs bivouacs at 22,500 ft
  28 April more mixed climbing in the 75-80 degrees, rock bivouac at 22,800 ft
  29 April another storm, 23,200 ft bivouac = miserable bivouac = very narrow 
  30 April weather cleared and went for summit and got there around 3:00 pm and 
     Blench pretty tired and in midst of lightening storm that shocked through 
     metal in packs to backs; only briefly on top.

  Altitude hit Blench pretty hard; that night in miserable bivvy and next day Blench very sick: concious but not innovative and not even able to do up his boots. Lauchlan lowered Blench 1 May all way to top of snow cave at snow cave bivvy. 2 May lowered him to bergschrund camp where other 2 met. Blench not really better until 3 May at BC. Coughing so badly lost all strength and vomiting; now Ok, but worn out. 

  All have same frostnipped toes.

  McNab went down cause not feeling well and Congdon not so strong as Blench, indeed Congdon also not so well. Later not able to go up because not enough food left. 

  Route was South Face, quite difficult. 


  Lauchlan - 11 March 81
   
  Route = South Face = new route
  45 degrees, 60 degrees ice face plus rock gullies with water ice
  All members are experienced waterfall climbers
  21,500-23,000 ft really difficult climbing
  1st Canadian expedition to attempt new route in Nepal.
  2 more arrived 14th and leave KTM 17th and leave Pokhara 18th
  Approach up Modi Khola via Hinko to east side of Gangapurna South Ridge 
  BC about 13,500 ft
  ABC = 17,000-17,500 ft
  Above ABC probably alpine-style climb; no Sherpas above BC.
  Arrived BC 25-27 March
  3 weeks to stock ABC and acclimatization. 
  3 weeks to do face itself.
  If go up alpine-style will descend via East Ridge; if not will be moving 
     siege (rope fixed and then pulled up) and descend same route.
  No oxygen.


expid: YALU81101
peakid: YALU
year: 1981
route1: N Face-N Ridge of Kangchenjunga
nation: USA
leaders: Chris Chandler
sponsor: 1981 Yalungkang Expedition
countries: Australia
bcdate: 1981-03-29
smtdate: 1981-05-19
accidents: Chris frostbite on toe
campsites:
  BC(29/03,5140m),C1(07/04,5500m),C2(14/04,6000m),C3(29/04,6500m),Biv1(07/05,6900m),Biv2(08/05,7200m),Biv3(09/05,7350m),Biv4(10/05,7600m),Biv5(18/05,7900m),xxx(19/05,8000m)

routememo:
  Chandler & Bremer - 8 June 81

  We put in 90 meters fixed rope whereas Japnanese had thousands of meters. Put in our 90 meters above 1st icefield and then serac fell and wiped it out. 

  Took 3 weeks to get on 3 camps in, 4th week equipment buried and had to scrounge for food in lost camps, pitons, lines, good goggles. This took technical aspects of climb out of question from and on C3, we went off from Czechs left and met North Ridge at end of a couloir at end of Col and thus met Scott route at about 7350m. Followed ridge/Scott route and put snow cave just below rock band at about 7600m where had to wait for better weather were now on 1/2 rations. Returned to C3 at 6500m where had tent.

  Couple days rest then weather good. Returned to snow cave on Scott and continued on up this route but bivy bag had been buried in avalanche, and from high point about 8000m reached could see could see highly technical climbing ahead and need for protection of pitons, etc. and no bivy sack and cold feet literally so gave up.

  Could have gone to Kangchenjunga summit with no trouble at all but too many watching and wanted to stick to rules.

  Then had 2-1/2 days ratians and 2 fuel cartridges left and pretty worn out.

  BC - 29 March - 5139m
  C1 -  7 April - 5500m
  C2 - 14 April - about 6000m
  C3 - 29 April - 6500m

  Arrived 2nd May took away cache at base of 1st ice cliff at 6350-6400m when men were in C2.

  1st biv - 6900m - 7 May
  2nd biv - 7200m - 8 May
  3rd biv - 7350m - 8 May
  4th biv - 7600m - 10 May

  Down on 12 May to C3 because of storm. Started up again on 17 May and reached 3rd biv that day. On 18th passed 4th bivouac and made new bivouac at 7900m.

  19 May - climbed snowfield to right and reached close to base of Kangchenjunga (never did reach rocks of Yalung Kang, would have taken 2-3 days more to Yalung Kang summit) at about 8000m and returned all way to C3.

  Felt quite acclimatized and enjoyed being able to move freely and quickly on mountain.


  Cherie B-K - 7 June 81

  Returned Friday 5 June. Not successful but felt like good attempt, reached 8000m on shoestring. "Like to go back." 

  Arrived 1-2 May cooked own and Czech's food, fixed line and hardware 1 May between C2 and C3 (about same as Japanese).

  Abandoned original route because avalanche consumed entire route (most high avalanche ever seen) so were on Japanese route: ice cliff done and Czech's caught up so went to North Col and onto big sugarloaf above Col to 2 snow gullies. Gullies 200 feet of rock which required fixed line and beyond capabilities at that time. Line and hardware gone in avalanche. Good weather then, turned back about 20 May. 

  Both Ok. Cheri some frostbite one toe, but will be Ok. No accidents.


  Chris Chandler - 7 March 81

  Number of possible routes - a rib on North Face. Direct on Japanese North Face 1980 Spring route to 3rd icefield and right to Yalung Kang summit. Depends on safety routes and other factors.

  Will acclimatize on North Face direct route, then if not feasible to go to top this way, will come down and do alternate route.

  BC at Pangpema and ABC at 5500m. A camp on face will be last camp, altitude not known.

  Leave KTM Tuesday 10 March by bus to Dharan and thence on foot to Pangpema in 2 weeks from Dharan so arrive BC before 1 April. Summit attempt 1st 2 weeks in May.

  1 Sherpa will help carry loads on face to 1st and only camp on face. No oxygen. 

  1981 Yalung Kang Expedition


expid: DHA181102
peakid: DHA1
year: 1981
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Jon Jones
sponsor: Canadian Dhaulagiri Expedition
ascent1: 16th
countries: UK
approach: Pokhara->Myagdi Khola->BC
bcdate: 1981-04-08
smtdate: 1981-05-17
smttime: 1320
termdate: 1981-05-21
campsites:
  BC(08/04,4720m),C1(11/04,5180m),C2(13/04,5600m),C3(23/04,6400m),C4(05/05,7000m),C5(08-15/05,7440m),Smt(17/05)

routememo:
  Al Burgess -  26 May 81

  NE Ridge really catches wind 
  BC - 15,500 feet - about 8 April
  C1 - 17,000 feet - 11 April
  C2 - 18,400 feet - 13 April
  (ABC) NE Col
  C3 - ice cave at foot of spur - 23 April at 21,000 feet
  (rest at BC between camps)
  C4 - 23,000 feet - 5 May
  C5 - 25,000 feet - 8 May put in place but not occupied.

  Jones had dysentery most of the time. Elzinga then went home after realizing wouldn't be going to top. He had spent 3 nights at C4 and then left without saying anything before.

  Gardner and Masters never went above 22,000 and never carried above 21,000, exhausted; so no one climbing high but Burgess twins; only one of season went to top from C5.

  Sherpas went only to NE Col supplying fresh food; twins occupied C5 15 May after leaving NE Col on 12 May.

  16 May rest day in C5 because of bad weather 2 previous days and not slept and needed rehydration. Planned to make C6 on 17th and top on 18th, but saw bad weather coming and were just weakening to spend more time, so went to top on 17th. Left C5 at 5:45 am - did not go usual away across snowfield because avalanche prone, so went longer way on ridge via false summits and had to be roped together. Got to top at 1:20 pm.

  In descent terrible storm of wind driven snow. Reached C5 at 6:00 pm. "Really gripping descent" via ridge which had to be climbed but snow slope would have slab-avalanched. 18 May down to BC and left BC 21 May.

  Had to do alpine-style because weather so unpredictable. No accidents or frostbite.


  Gardner - 25 May 81

  No C6. Held back by winds so Burgess went to top from C5 where they spent 2 nights holding down tents; they only summiters.

  Much of time only 4 on mountain with Elzinga not acclimatizing and not eating (left expedition about 5 May) and Jones also stomach trouble and tied to BC.

  No accidents. Others should arrive in KTM today or tomorrow.


  Jones and Burgess - 13 March 81

  3 camps drove NE Col - maybe ice cave somewhere which is safest place to be in avalanche.
  2 Sherpas to Col only - to keep fresh vegetables coming.
  Col = ABC
  BC on Myagdi Glacier at 15,000 feet
  No oxygen for climbing (looking for same for medical oxygen)
  Leave KTM 15 March; 12-15 days to BC; there by April Fools day
  6 weeks on mountain.


  Adrian Burgess - 16 Feb 81
    
  Route = NE Ridge, standard route
  4 Canadians and 2 Burgess twins
  Canadians little experience especially doctor and never at really high 
    altitude before. 
  2 Sherpas above BC to perhaps 20,000 feet.


expid: KANG81102
peakid: KANG
year: 1981
route1: N Face
nation: Czechoslovakia
leaders: Ivan Galfy
sponsor: Czechoslovak Himalayan Expedition - Kangchenjunga
ascent1: 9th
bcdate: 1981-04-19
smtdate: 1981-05-20
termdate: 1981-05-25
campsites:
  BC(19/04,5080m),C1(22/04,5200m),C2(24/04,5800m),C3(05/05,6650m),C4(17/05,7300m),C5(19/05,7900m),Smt(20/05)

routememo:
  Galfy - 11 June 81

  BC 19 April  5080m
  C1 22 April  5200m
  C2 24 April  5800m
  C3  5 May    6650m
  C4 17 May    7300m
  C5 19 May    7900m
  Summit by Psotka and Zahoransky

  Route = 1980 Spring Japanese route and same as Doug Scott towards summit
  Czech C2 = Japanese C1 (Japanese had much longer acclimatization period)

  5 to 17 May: avalanche took away lot of fixed rope and other materials and rock band had to be fixed with rope. C2 destroyed also (but no one on it).

  Rock band more difficult then expected because didn't expect water ice; otherwise route not more difficult than expected. Ice towers after avalanche became very dangerous.

  No oxygen used at all.

  No more men on summit because Radio Nepal forecast coming of monsoon. From 23 May was a week of very bad weather.

  Left BC 25 May.


  Shailendra Sharma - 25 May 81

  2 members: Josef Psotka and Ludovit Zahoransky reached summit from North Face without oxygen on 20 May afternoon. Stayed on top 20 minutes and put Czech and Nepalese flags. Climbed from C4 (7900m/25,920 ft).


  Oto Chudy, Jannu - 25 April 81

  Czechoslovakian Kangchenjunga
  BC 19 Apr = 5080m
  C1 22 Apr = 5200m
  C2 24 Apr = 5800m (C2 is almost the same as Scott/Karishi C1)
  Minor health problems reported.


  Galfy via Chudy - 1 April 81

  North Face Japanese route generally with same changes in last 500m+.
  BC at 5050m at Pangpema 
  5 camps above BC with C5 at 7800-7900m 
  1 Sherpa above BC
  Oxygen taken but hope not to use
  Arrived BC 17-19 April
  5-6 weeks climb
  Leave KTM 2 April to Dharan 
  Leave Tamur River 4 April


expid: JANU81102
peakid: JANU
year: 1981
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Czechoslovakia
leaders: Adam Blazej
sponsor: Czechoslovak Himalayan Expedition
ascent1: 10th
approach: Dharan->Tamur Valley
bcdate: 1981-04-17
smtdate: 1981-05-23
smttime: 1240
termdate: 1981-05-27
campsites:
  BC(17/04,4400m),C1(19/04,4900m),C2(23/04,5400m),C3(01/05,5900m),C4(08/05,6400m),C5(16/05,6600m),C6(20/05,7100m),Smt(23/05)

routememo:
  Fr. Jannu Expedition -  18 May 83

  French think Czech 1981 C5 and C6 should have been given higher altitudes; these camps, French believe, were actually at 6900-7000m and 7300m.


  Chudy - 11 June 81

  Route = SW Ridge, same as Czechs tried 1979 (definitely not same as French 1962). Actually all [routes] go summit itself from South Face to which ridges lead.

  C4 to C5 long distance with 150m descent.

  2 attempts from C5 to top. 2 members from C5 to site of French and Spain C5 on 19 May. 20 May to French and Spanish C6. 21st attempt to go to summit: R Galfy and Bakos reached 7500m in colouir. 

  20 May another party made C6 at 7300m. Bakos had fever and frostbite and went down on 22 and 23 May to BC. R Galfy stayed above. 22 May Divald and Vozarik from Czech C5 to French C6. 23 May at 5:00 am, R Galfy, Vozarik and Divald from French C6 to summit to at 12:40 pm and down to C5 (moved tent from French to C6 to French C5 at 7000m). 

  20 May Spanik, Chrenka and Martis started fixing rope drove Czech C6; 22nd reached well above 7500m but so tired, decided take a day's rest at Czech C5. But 23 May last day of favourable weather. Then snow covered camp and they went down instead. If not this turn in bad weather, at least 6 people [would have been] on top. Left BC 27 May. Bakos is Ok. 

  No serious frostbite. No oxygen used at all.


  Galfy via Chudy - 1 April 81

  North Face; if SW Ridge not being climbed by Spanish and agree, Czechs may go to SW Ridge; prefer ridge because this ridge was climbed in 1979 by Czechs but not to summit. 5 camps above BC, maybe 6th camp because top of 500m face is overhang of 20m and difficult at about 7150-7200m on this SW Ridge route. In BC 15-17 April.

  1 Sherpa above BC at 4400m, then C1 will become ABC at 4800m but far from BC; this for SW Ridge.

  5 weeks to scale Jannu via ridge; if must go to North Face, will follow Japanese route as far as C3, then try to make alternate route.

  Oxygen medical only.
  Leave KTM 2 April Birgunj-Biratnagar-Dharan.
  1 day in Dharan; leave 4 April by road to Tamur River.


expid: ANNM81101
peakid: ANNM
year: 1981
route1: S Face (E of Bonington rte)
nation: Poland
leaders: Ryszard Szafirski
sponsor: Polish Himalayan Expedition Annapurna I South Face
ascent1: 2nd
bcdate: 1981-03-31
smtdate: 1981-05-23
smttime: 1730
othersmts: Held permit for Annapurna I (ANN1-811-02) (required for Annapurna I Middle Smt)
accidents: Doctor broken arm from fall
campsites:
  BC(31/03,4300m),C1(02/04,5400m),C2(08/04,6100m),C3(28/04,6850m),C4(19/05,7300m),C5(21/05,7700m),Smt(23/05)

routememo:
  Szafirski & Korniszewski - 2 June 81

  Climb was much more difficult than expected. Most difficult between C2 and C3: very sharp crazy ridge of snow and ice, very steep vertical snow. 3 weeks to climb at 40m per day. Technical difficulties greater higher up where also very steep and Grade 4 and difficulties.

  28 April when route made to C3, good weather ended. Summiters had to wait in C5 extra day and night for good weather.

  Poles had 6 climbers, Dr and leader. Others were photographer, driver and priest. Driver left from Machhapuchare BC, priest left after one week. Dr and leader were Polish Sherpas.
   
  Should have made permanent camp between C2 and C3. 9 to 12 hours from C2 to C3 hanging glacier below C3. C4 was used only one night on way to top. Summiters went to middle summit only. Route of face was climbed.

  No other summit attempts: too late, too bad weather and "we had not forces."
   
  Doctor broken right arm from fall between C2 and C1 during evacuation. Route was safe, powder snow avalanches made difficult climbing and all tents after covered.

  Oxygen medical only and kept in BC; no one used it.

  Have studied another difficult but fine route up face via buttress between Bonington and Polish routes.

  Want to name route John Paul II route if Vatican gives permission. Will arrive Rome 10 May and hope to see Pope. Church in Poland gave contribution. Priest will meet in Rome.

  Priest member went back after 1 week because not well (heart probably).


  Szafirski - 13 March 81

  1 leader
  6 climbers
  1 doctor
  1 driver
  1 photographer
  1 priest
  --
  11 members

  No Sherpas above BC - too diffcult.

  Route = South Face to route of Bonington route. BC same as Bonington 1970 about 4800-5000m, impossible to say how many camps. Main problem is descent from summit.

  C3 about 7000m; from here can go nonstop to summit but impossible to descend same way without another camp or 2 more. 

  Szafirski arrived 9 March, waits now for others. Members arrive KTM 16 March and back soon at Bhairawa.

  Oxygen medical only.
  Polish Himalayan Expedition Annapurna I South Face.
  Most difficult part above C3; maybe make C3 ABC.


expid: LHOT81101
peakid: LHOT
year: 1981
route1: W Face
nation: Bulgaria
leaders: Christo Ivanov Prodanov
sponsor: Bulgarian Himalayan Expedition - Lhotse 1981
ascent1: 9th
bcdate: 1981-03-23
smtdate: 1981-04-30
campsites: BC(23/03),C1(28/03,6060m),C2(02/04,6800m),C3(13/04,7450m),C4(27/04,7980m),Smt(30/04)
routememo:
  Sick member of summit team got up to C3, then inflamation of throat and ordered down by doctor.
  At 12:30 am summit day weather got bad with snow and fog and on top had storm and strong wind. Stayed on top 20 minutes.

  Most of equipment made in Bulgaria in Icefall; used lot of fixed rope but only 10 ladders. 2000m fixed rope BC->C4.
   
  1 member slight frostbite in fingerse - no accidents.

  Would like to scale Everest in 1984 to celebrate 40th anniversary of socialist state. Route not decided (would seen prefer SE Ridge, but it's booked up).


  Prodanov - 22 Feb 81

  Others will arrive 26th Feb. Expedition leaves 1st or 2nd March by trek to Khumbu. 
  Arrive BC 25 March after acclimatization.
  4 camps above BC; C4 at about 8000m
  Normal route on West Face
  Oxygen above C4 during summit attack
  Summit 5-10 May
  1st Bulgarian exped. to all Himalayas celebrates 13th century of Bulgarian state.
  7 Sherpas above BC
  19 members; stay in Lhotse Hotel


expid: LHOT81102
peakid: LHOT
year: 1981
route1: S Face
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Ales Kunaver
sponsor: Lhotse 1981 South Face Expedition
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1981-03-16
smtdate: 1981-05-14
termdate: 1981-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 8250m due to bad weather and exhaustion
campsites:
  BC(16/03,5200m),C1(26/03,6000m),C2(06/04,6500m),C3(14/04,7000m),C4(22/04,7300m),C5(01/05,7800m),C6(12/05,8050m),xxx(14/05,8250m)

routememo:
  High point on 14 May at 8250m at rock atop on face by Pavel Podgornik, Andrej Stremfelj and Nejc Zaplotnik.

  Kunaver & M. Stremfelj - 23 May 81

  Camps were both tents and snowholes
  C1 - 5800-5900m - 3 tents destroyed by avalanches so 1 tent in a big snowhole
  C2 - 6400-6500m - 3 tents always getting covered by powder avalanche 
  C3 - 6800m - 1 tent and 1 snowhole under huge overhang - one piece of rock 
       overhang came away on 24 April but not hit, no one noticed it on such 
       huge face
  C4 - 7300-7400m - 1 tent and 1 hole 
  C5 - 7800m - avalanches after completely covered it and couldn't be 
       found - 1 tent and 1 hole
  C6 - 8050m - 1 tent made on a cornice

  From C6 very bad snow, very unstable. Several parties went to 8150m above C6; last time on 14 May by Stremfelj, Podgornik and Zaplotnik who fixed 200m rope and looked like 50m more needed to be done in difficult climb.

  On 14 May determined fixed dates for climbing because many exhausted and time to finish. 

  On 17 May next high party said better to go left because of very strong wind.

  On 18 May Matijevec and Knez traversed icefield; then very deep, soft unstable snow which took lot of time. After 12 hours were at about 8000-8050m on ridge on left with idea of going to West Cwm then turned down Lhotse South Face and reached C4 4:30 am.

  19 May they had finished face and did not plan to go to summit. Idea was to rope down West Face to Cwm, but far from expedition supplies and Bulgarians then down. If could have sent Pilatus to oversee their movements and/or helicopter to top of Khumbu Icefall, would have worked, but no radio contact with RNAC, so retraced their steps in heavy snowfall directly to C5 and down to C4.

  19 May they slept little while in C4 and then again down and all others came off mountain also so all in BC that night.

  20 May BC evacuated.

  16 members had left BC on 17 May and 13 including radio operator left on 20 May.

  Oxygen used by all above C6 except 1st party fixing rope 60m above camp because took so very long to move in snow.

  4 Sherpas went to C6 (at previous of Rs 4000/load).

  Face is certainly climbable. Problem was weather which threw people back and was soul destroying. All time through powder avalanches which flowing down all the time; some young members couldn't take it, gave up.

  1975 Italian expedition unable to tackle face because were collection of stars from Dolomites, not teammates working together. 


  Kunaver - 12 March 81

  BC on Lhotse Glacier at 5200m east of point 5775.
  First group leave KTM tomorrow; last with Kunaver after about 4 days.
  Approach via Lukla and Dingboche and Chhukung.

  BC reached after 2-3 days by Stremfelj; all in BC about 25 March
  Start looking on route immediately 
  6 weeks to summit
  6 camps above BC with C6, a bivouac probably at 8200-8300m
  12 Sherpas above BC
  Oxygen: 30 bottles for climbing

  Ascent route S Face; Highest point at Rock Step on Face; Descent route S Face


expid: KAG181301
peakid: KAG1
year: 1981
route1: N Face-W Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Rene Collet
bcdate: 1981-10-11
smtdate: 1981-10-12
termdate: 1981-10-13
termnote: Abandoned at 5200m due to shortage of time
othersmts: Recon Kande Hiunchuli North I (KAN1-813-01)
campsites: BC(11/10,4900m),xxx(12/10,5200m)
routememo:
  Collet - 27 Oct 81

  Question of time, 2 ways:
  Kagmara Pass to Main peak to NE Ridge.
  BC: 200m below pass = 5000m; arrived 13 Oct because only 9 porters from Jumla so very slow.

  1) NE Ridge: very dangerous because of avalanches and rotten rock. 
  2) W Ridge: very long way to reach it and snow up to waist, 10 days minimum.

  Went above BC for 5 hrs and reached 5200m on 12 Oct by Mr and Mrs Collet, Rodolphe Collet, Laserre and Simond. Then hopeless given time, shortage with flights fixed to Paris, so returned.

  All well; no accidents, frostbite, illness.


  Collet - 27 Oct 81

  Impossible to go in Jagdulo valley to climb Sisne. No path, just wild jungle. Only way to Sisne is Swiss way via North Peak. Not any more interested in Sisne since planes impossible and access very long (in time) to South Peak.


  Collet - 1 Oct 81
   
  Fly to Jumla and then up Jagdulo Khola as far as possible to look at South Face of Sisne to climb it Oct 1982, then back down South to Garpung Khola to attempt Kagmara I.


  BC at 5000m near Kagmara La 
  2 camps above BC at 5200 and 5600m
  Route = North Face to NW Ridge, probably same as British women.
   
  Leave KTM 2 Oct by charter to Jumla. 5 days to Jagdula. Recce 6 days (which is good for acclimatization). 2-3 days to Kagmara La. 4 days maximum to climb. An easy route.

  Arrived BC 13-14 Oct, summit 18 Oct.
  1 week to return to Jumla and from Jumla to KTM 27 Oct and leave 29 Oct
  2 Sherpas above BC on climb. 6 or 7 (expedition cook) to BC. 
  Medical oxygen only.

  Expedition has no name.


expid: LSIS81301
peakid: LSIS
year: 1981
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Isao Yamazaki
sponsor: Nepal-Japan Joint Expedition to Mt. Langshisa Ri
countries: Nepal
approach: Trisuli Bazar->Langtang Valley
bcdate: 1981-10-02
smtdate: 1981-10-09
termdate: 1981-10-13
termnote: Abandoned at 5880 due to route too difficult
campsites: BC(02/10,4400m),C1(05/10,5350m),xxx(09/10,5880m)
routememo:
  Yamazaki - 20 Oct 81

  Arrived BC 4400m 2 October
  C1 5350m 5 October at South Col
  C2 not made; knife ridge. Reached 5880m going towards point 6145m on a ridge by Abesawa and Kami Tshering of Phakding, member, on 9th Oct. Very difficult to fix rope.

  Next expedition should approach from North.
  Left BC 13th Oct. All OK, no accidents. All arrived KTM 19 Oct. 

   
  Yamazaki - 10 Sept 81

  Leave KTM 24 Sept. Approach via Trisuli Bazar, Trisuli River, Langtang Khola. 
  Arrive BC 30 Oct at 4500m.
  Route = S Ridge but know very little about this virgin mountain; no recce. 
  Summit 15 to 18th Oct.

  2 camps above BC:
   C1 - 5000m
   C2 - 5600m

  3 Nepali members: Sherpas; no high altitude porters; oxygen medical only.
  Nepali members:
    Ang Kami, 27, Namche (was on Spanish Jannu)
    Kami Tshering, Phakding
    Lhakpa, Khumjung
  2 Japanese members here now; 1 other arrive KTM 20th Sept.


expid: ANN181101
peakid: ANN1
year: 1981
route1: E Ridge
nation: Sweden
leaders: Tommy Sandberg
sponsor: Swedish Himalayan Expedition 1981
countries: Switzerland
approach: Pokhara->Annapurna Sanctuary
bcdate: 1981-04-06
smtdate: 1981-05-15
termdate: 1981-05-22
termnote: Abandoned on 15 May due to bad weather
othersmts: Climbed Glacier Dome (GLAC-811-01) and Roc Noir (ROCN-811-01)
campsites:
  BC(06/04,4200m),C1(08/04,5200m),C2(12/04,5800m),C3(27/04,6200m),C4(01/05,6650m),C5(04/05,7100m),C6A(12/05,7150m),C6B(13/05,7250m),C7(14/05,7500m),xxx(15/05,7500m)

routememo:
  Lindblad & Olin - 29 May 81

  BC arrived 30 March some members and others 4 April.
  BC established 6 April - 4200m
  C1 occupied    8 April - 5200m
  C2   "        12 April - 5800m
  C3   "        27 April - 6200m

  Lot of snowfall and different glacier steep ice had to fix rope and different find route to C3; reasons for 2 weeks between C2 and C3.

  C4 - 1 May - 6650m
  C5 - 4 May - 7100m

  Glacier Dome summit 5 May by Germain, Sandberg and Cronlund on from C5 in 1/2 hours to top and back to C5 and BC.

  Route on Glacier Dome = Southwest side (slope 35-40 degrees, not a face).

  8 & 9 - May all in C3, 2-3 days constant snowfall.

  10 May - Ake Back, Lars Back and Olin tried to reach summit, but it was bad weather and could see nothing. Put pole at high point and later were told this was 40-50m below top of this dome. Went directly from C3 and couldn't find C5 and returned to C3 in very hard climb.

  11 May 3 members climbing for East Summit and left C4 for C5: Sandberg, Cronlund and Lindblad. Wahlund also with the 3.

  12 May - 3 from C5 to Glacier Dome summit and 3 to site of C6 which found too late to place where wanted it; put it at 7150m at foot of ridge up to Roc Noir.

  13 May - 3 up towards Roc Noir. Cronlund and Lindblad crossed 5-6m below summit and moved C6 to step up to Roc Noir at 7250m and stayed night at this site east of Roc Noir.

  14 May - Sandberg to help ferry equipment up to Roc Noir and he then descended to C3, while other 2 continued out on ridge west of Roc Noir (all 3 went again across South Face of Roc Noir 5-6m below summit). 2 made C7 at 7500m west of Roc Noir.

  15 May - 2 from C7 to attempt East Summit of Annapurna I along saw tooth ridge which took longer then expected and where flat was loose deep snow. Reached foot of 10 slope up to East Summit at about 7500m altitude. Weather looked bad so started back to C7 at about 1:00 pm. Did not reach C7 because snowfall and electrical storm and couldn't see, so dug snow cave which was not far from C7 but too steep down to camp. 10:00-11:00 pm weather cleared though windy and reached C7 at midnight or so where spent rest of night. Had no bivouac equipment: took 4 hours to dig cave with 1 ice axe.

  16 May - to C6 of 7150m.

  17 May - to C3. Met Doctor Wahlund and Sandberg at C5 to meet them and help them down.

  No second push to East Summit because no members strong and food running out.

  5 km from Glacier Dome to East Summit and another 2 kms to main summit
  Germans in 1969 passed Roc Noir. Don't know how far west they reached.
  Westman hit in hard by ice block just below C3, couple bones broken.

  Lindblad and Cronlund little frostbite.

  Avalanching close to Sandberg and Wahlund passed over their heads 5 meters beside C2 while evacuating mountain.

  Summits Glacier Dome:
  5 May   -  Germain
             Sandberg
             Cronlund

  12 May   - Sandberg
             Cronlund
             Lindblad
             Wahlund

  Summits Roc Noir:
  13 May  -  Cronlund
             Lindblad

  14 May  -  Cronlund
             Lindblad
             Sandberg

  16 May  -  Cronlund
             Lindblad

  C6A, 7150m - 12 May
  C6B, 7250m - 13 May
  C7,  7500m - 14 May 
  Farthest west point 7500m - 15 May


  Tourism Ministry - 17 May 81, 5:00 pm

  Swedes abandoned climbing on 15 May because of bad weather.


  Shalendra Sharma - 15 May 81

  2nd Glacier Dome party did not reach top. Were 75m below summit but at the time in dense fog they thought they were on top. Left stick at their high point and next day could see stick and see it was not on top.

  1.5 km horizontal foot of Annapurna East (8010m).


  Bergstson (Swedish journalist) - 11 May 81

  Will attempt summit 14th May by Sandberg, Cronlund, Lindbladh, Sherpa Mingma.

  All going [well] according to Schnidher - down from C5 and C4 with 4 days and bad weather.
  - C6 tomorrow at about 7200m = 250m under Roc Noir
  - C7 at end of 5 km ridge under Annapurna East peak about 7460m

  Will go for East Summit only probably because weather too bad.

  One man broke 2 fingers of left hand in fall of ice block about 10 days ago: Kenneth Westman and is in BC.

  All others OK except for usual headaches and stomach trouble.

  Glacier Dome climbed 4 May by Germain, Sandberg, Lars Cronlund
  Glacier Dome = Swedish altitude record in mountain.


  Olin, Lindblad & Westman - 20 March 81

  Approach via Modi Khola to BC slightly northwest of point 12,430 on Harka's map. 
  BC - 4500m

  Same route to Glacier Dome as 1969 Germans via Col between Tent Peak and Glacier Dome and up SW Ridge of Glacier Dome. Then west on Ridge to Roc Noir, traverse Roc Noir 10m below summit, and then traverse the 3 summits of Annapurna I. 

  7 km Col Dome to East summit
  9 km Col Dome to Main summit of Annapurna I 500m between camps
  C4 - on ridge between Fluted Peak and Glacier Dome
  C5 - 7000m just below Glacier Dome 
  C6 - 7000m on ridge just east or west of Roc Noir
  Maybe down Poles South Face
  10 members including doctor
  4 Sherpas above BC

  12 oxygen med and perhaps for sleeping in high camps, but not for climbing: 2 in BC, 10 in high camps.

  Glacier Dome altitude? probably 7142m - not 7793m
  Swedish Himalayan Expedition 1981
  1st Swedish to Nepal
  Leave KTM 23 March, arrive BC after 6-8 days from Pokhara

  Glacier Dome summit depends on seracs and other conditions; no target date but hope before 1st May.

  To Annapurna main summit another week, but depends on weather conditions and our condition; perhaps first go back to BC and wait a week.


expid: MAKA81101
peakid: MAKA
year: 1981
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge (to 7800m)
route2: W Face (to 6800m)
nation: Poland
leaders: Voytek Kurtyka, Alex MacIntyre
sponsor: East-West Precipice Fellowship Expedition to Makalu
countries: Nepal, UK
approach: Tumlingtar->Shipton La->Barun Glacier
bcdate: 1981-03-25
smtdate: 1981-05-14
othersmts: Climbed Kangchungste (Makalu II) (MAK2-811-01)
campsites: BC(25/03,5000m),C1(31/03,5600m),C2(05/04,6200m),C3(11/04,7000m),C4(19/04,7500m),xxx(14/04,7800m)
routememo:
  High point on northwest side 7800m 14 May
  Then to West Face alpine-style
  22-24 May high point 6800m (22,300 ft)

  Makalu II climbed by Nepalese member Ghale alone on 16 May via South Ridge.


  MacIntyre - 6 June 81

  Until about end 3rd week May were working on northwest side to acclimatize. Did this for 40 days partly because of bad weather and great distances; ended up with camp at 7500m just above Makalu Col. I went to 7800m about 14 May and had night there. 2 of us only left (Higgins not acclimatized). Tried face with largish loads; got out to face and 1st day climbed 200m from bottom of face at 6400m and this too slow to get to top in less than 10 days, to relay food and gas; also if got hit by storm at 8000m or so would be dead.

  All attempts on face were in 3rd week May and this 6800m point reached about 22 May, highest point on face.

  Then Voytek left and MacIntyre went over to northwest side and reached 7500m camp and cleared this and lower camps (Higgins and Ghale cleared other camps).

  Face was 1800m of green ice and exposed rock beds much above 7500m. Hope to get permission to go again to face this autumn. Will not spend so much time and effort in acclimatization period - team of 3-4 men.

  BC - 25 March - 5000m as site planned
  C1 - 31 March - 5600m on normal route which Austrians were also on
  C2 -  5 April - 6200m
  C3 - 11 April - 7000m
  C4 - 19 April - 7500m just above Makalu La

  High point on northwest side 14 May 7800m by MacIntyre.

  Moving well enough to try face; went to face with plan to do it alpine-style in 5 days and MacIntyre and Woytek alone carried 5 day's food and gas and bivouac equipment. Attacked face on about 22 May and in 2 days reached 6800m = high point on face. Were carrying too much: at 7800m on face begins very hard climbing.

  No accidents, frostbite,

  Ghale went to top of Makalu II. Set off on his own without telling anyone he was going to. Left BC 13 May and was on top on 16 May all alone; up South Ridge-East Face standard route from Makalu La via C1-C4 camps expedition had already established.


  Kurtyka & MacIntyre - 5 March 81

  Leave KTM for Tumlingtar 10 March 
  BC = Northwest Barun Pokhari at 4950m (100m higher than usual BC)
  Arrive BC about 22 March

  Acclimatization on normal route up to 8000m in about 1 month. If Schell does not agree to being on his route, can go to North Ridge for acclimatization, but better if don't have to climb hard in acclimatization and therefore can go on normal route.

  ABC on Chago Glacier at about 5400m 
  From ABC alpine-style up West face in about 5 days to summit.
  Arrive BC 22 March; finnish acclimatization 22-25 April rest
  Arrive ABC 1 May
  On summit end 1st week May if weather permits
  Will stay till monsoon if unable get to top as per above schedule
  No Sherpas above BC; 1 man in BC only
  No oxygen at all

  Difficulties at 7900m which are much more difficult than those on Everest SW Face which not climbed; some pitches overhang: formidable steep rock barrier of 450-500m.

  6 members:
  1) Kunda Dixit will not climb much above BC-ABC, if at all
  2) Ghale is not going very high 
  3) doctor not climbing


expid: GAUR81101
peakid: GAUR
year: 1981
route1: SW Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Franz Huber
sponsor: First Austrian Gaurishanker Expedition
bcdate: 1981-04-07
smtdate: 1981-04-17
termdate: 1981-04-26
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to strong winds
campsites: BC(07/04,4940m),C1(10/04,5,080m),C2(15/04,5400m),xxx(17/04,5800m)
routememo:
  Franz Huber - 17 Oct 83

  Huber's route on Gaurishankar in 1981 spring was SW Face = American route, not SE Ridge.


  Franz Huber - 24 April 81

  Franz Huber arrived KTM today; others leave BC today or tomorrow and he rejoins them; leave 26 April and return with all members 30 April or 1 May.

  6 pm to 5 am, very strong [wind] 19/20 night. All in BC; his half of BC's 8 tents destroyed including kitchen tent. C1 2 tents of 4 and in C2 both tents destroyed and equipment lost, so expedition finished.
   
  Fixed rope to 5800m; site for C3 at 6000m. 4 members to 5800m: Stramberger, Mueller, Franz Huber and Ewald Huber on 17 April, then 2 days snowing and then windy.


  Huber and son - 24 March 81

  1st Austrian Gaurishankar Expedition
  Route = SW Ridge (permit)
  See what snow conditions are, maybe change to West Ridge
  2 Sherpas above BC
  BC at Read and Boardman site 4900m
  3 camps above BC, maybe a 2nd BC also 
  Leave KTM 25 March
  Arrive BC after 10-11 days
  Summit early May: 4-5 weeks climbing
  Oxygen medical only


expid: MAKA81102
peakid: MAKA
year: 1981
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Hanns Schell
sponsor: Austrian Makalu Expedition
ascent1: 15th
bcdate: 1981-04-04
smtdate: 1981-04-25
smttime: 1715
campsites: BC(04/04,5300m),C1(09/04,6300m),C2(15/04,7000m),C3(22/04,7500m),C4(24/04,7800m),Smt(25/04)
routememo:
  Schell, Schauer and Bachler - 30 May 81

  BC - 5300m -  4 April
  C1 - 6300m -  9 April
  C2 - 7000m - 15 April
  C3 - 7500m - 22 April
  C4 - 7800m - 24 April

  Summit by Schauer 25 April. After 15 April too much snow and wind; then one push to C3 and up.
  Bachler arrived BC 14 April.

  Schauer to C3 with Sherpas and back on 22nd April to C2. 23 April again Schauer and Sherpas to C3 and Sherpas down while Schauer alone. 24 May in beautiful weather he made C4 and 25 May to top: started 6:30 am in good weather but high clouds in mid-day: reached top 17:15 hrs (had determined would stop ascent by 17:00 hrs). Biv at 8100m after slipping 100m and losing ice axe and hammer and managed to find couloir at 19:30-20:00 hrs.

  Entire climb by Schauer without any oxygen. In fall thought really the end but managed stop himself with points of crampons, tumbling head over heels at 8200m down to 8100m at 2 pm. 

  26 April Schauer to C4, slept 2 hours and lot of drinking and then to C1; other 3 and 3 Sherpas tried for summit [afterwards].
   
   1 May left BC to C1
   2 May in C2
   3 May in C2 in storm
   4 May to C3
   5 May to C4
   6 May  - weather bad and not feeling strong and descended and rested
  12 May - 3 members and 2 Sherpas from BC to C1
  13 May - to C2
  14 May - to C3
  15 May - to C4 and Bachler and Hilmar [Sturm] made fixed rope to 8000m
  16 May - in C4 in bad weather
  17 May - Bachler alone up without oxygen and reached 50m below summit left Col 
           8:00 am; had only thin gloves and weather changed for worse so down to 
           C4 at 3:00 pm; others members to C2 and Sherpas to C3 with one ill and 
           needed escort (he used oxygen)
  18 May - all down, hoped to go up again alpine-style but weather always bad
  20 May - gave up

  Route = NW Face; not real face = northwest side, same as 1978 spring Warth 
    expedition and 1955 French; also same as Scott 1980 autumn.
  No accidents or frostbite 
  Climbed no other peaks


  Mr Herwig Derstrenscheg of Graz - 6 May 81

  Robert Schauer made an unaccompanied ascent of Makalu on 25 April. 
  Others hope to go to top early May.


  Postcard dated - 23 April 81

  BC - 5400m
  C1 - 6300m 
  Makulu La 7400m reached by Schauer 22 April 81 alone


  Schell - 16 March 81

  Austrian Makalu Expedition
  1 member arrived end of March
  Route = NW Face (French route)
  15 days from Tumlingtar to BC so reach BC end March/early April
  BC - 5400m
  4 camps above BC
  C1 - 6300m
  C2 - 7000m
  C3 - 7400m
  C4 - 7800-8000m
  3 Sherpas above BC
  Oxygen for some members
  Summit early-middle May

  Leave KTM 20 March to Dharan by road; thence walk to BC via Tumlingtar (arrive T'tar about 25/26 March).


expid: MAK281101
peakid: MAK2
year: 1981
route1: NW Ridge
nation: W Germany
leaders: Bernhard Guenther
sponsor: Allgaeuer Himalayan Makalu II Expedition
approach: Tumlingtar->Shipton La->Barun Glacier
bcdate: 1981-03-25
smtdate: 1981-04-12
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to deep snow
campsites: TempBC(4900m),BC(25/03,5300m),C1(01/04,6000m),xxx(12/04,7000m)
agency: Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  Bernhard Guenther - 24 Feb 81

  Makalu II, NW Ridge (Japanese route)
  Little food, much wind and snow; summit not reached.

  BC  - 4900m 
  BC2 - 5300m
  C1  - 6000m about 1 or 2 April

  Too much time for load carrying in fixed-camp method, so above C1 on skis with bivouacs.
   
  11 and 12 April reached about 7000m by Franz Seeberger and Luis Sinz. Martin Anwander reached 6700m. Leader only to 6000m because of poor acclimatization.

  All members arrived KTM 22 April; staying in Tukuche Peak Rest House
  No accidents or frostbite. All well.
  Leave KTM next week.


  Guenther & Seeberger - 3 March 81

  All members now here; leave KTM 6 March to Tumlingtar.

  Route maybe East Ridge; in any case put BC at foot of Chago Glacier, climb up Glacier to Makalu La. From pass go either north up South Ridge or cross pass and go round right of South Ridge to East Ridge.

  Oxygen medical only.


  Guenther - 18 Feb 81

  Route from Makalu La up South Ridge, same as French 1954. 
  Total 4 climbing members; others arrived 22 Feb and 1 March.
  No Sherpas above BC
  Leave KTM 4 March to Tumlingtar on scheduled flight
  Arrive BC in 10-12 days depending on snow
  4 weeks maybe 5 weeks climbing 
  BC 5400m
  2 camps above BC:
    C1 - 6100-6200m
    C2 - 7000m                    

  Hotel Cozy - 2 March, 9:00


  Nep Tkg, J. P. Lama, Topyang Lama - 4 Feb 81

  Germany Makalu II arrived 1 March; leave 3 March for Tumlingtar.

  Leader probably Bernhard Guenther who arrived KTM middle Feb.


expid: MANA81101
peakid: MANA
year: 1981
route1: NE Face
nation: W Germany
leaders: Hans Von Kaenel, Bernd Schreckenbach
sponsor: Hauser Expedition to Manaslu
ascent1: 10th-12th
countries: Austria, Switzerland
bcdate: 1981-04-06
smtdate: 1981-05-07
smttime: 1145
campsites:
  BC(06/04,3850m),C1(09/04,4900m),C2(13/04,5600m),C3(20/04,6400m),C4(27/04,6800m),C5(05/05,7500m),Smt(07,09,19/05)

routememo:
  Helmut Daum - 2 June 81

  8 members come today by helicopter; only Schreckenbach stayed back in Sama and will come out with baggage. All Ok. None to summit after 19 May.


  Woerner - 31 May 81 (Group II report)

  Summit 19 May at 11:45 by two and 2:00 pm by others:
    Heimbach
    Millinger 
    Schleypen (W Germany)
    Woergoetter (Austria)
    Woerner (Swiss)
    Weber
    Pasang Norbu Sherpa 

  Millinger and Woergoetter skied down from 30m vertical below summit to C1; to C5 4:30 pm arrive 19 May and then 20 May to C1 on ski and to BC on foot. Probably 1st continuous ski descent from 8000m.

  Possible more went to top; they arrive KTM 1 June.

  On 19 May Woerner and Weber used oxygen from C5 to top and back to C5; reached top 11:45 am; left C5 at 5:30 am and returned to C3 at 5:00 pm.

  All others on 19 May left C5 6:00 am and on top 2:00 pm. All to C5 4:45-5:00 pm except Pasang to C4.


  Saxinger and Horn - 13 May 81 (Group I report)

  Horn, Mueller, Loferer, Graf and Zebrowski on summit 9 May
  Burtscher with 1st party to 7700m on 6 May, but snow and cloud and returned to C5
  Burtscher problem with toes freezing and down on 7 May
  Loferer = 61 years oldest in 8000m summit?
  All Ok; same frosting only; no accidents
  2nd Group to try summit next week.


  Van Kaenel - 13 May 81 (Group I report)

  1600m fixed rope C4 to C5 to bring up not so strong member.
  1st summit team used no oxygen
  Group II arrive BC 23 April, plan to summit 16-22 May
  Loferer: (probably oldest to top of over 8000m)

  "So nice and very hard," but not most difficult of his life (more difficult in Alps). Altitude makes it difficult on Manaslu. Worst part on Manaslu was in C5 because 2 nights at that altitude: not using oxygen for sleeping but only above C5. No other 8000m peak for him unless Von Kaenel leader.

  1st party up nearly 300m from C5 on 6 May [first attempt]. 7 May down to C4 and C3 after summit [1st party tried again and summited on May 7]. 

  2nd party in C5 7 May evening. 8 May bad weather = storm of snow and wind and no attempt to go up. They stayed at C5 without use of oxygen; difficult for Loferer.

  Camp dates and altitudes of ministry correct except BC at 3850m


  Schreckenbach & Von Kaenel - 24 March 81

  Route = NE Face = normal route
  Leave KTM 25 March, arrive BC after 12 days
  BC 3950m, same as usual near Sama
  4 or 5 camps above BC
  Highest at 7500-7600m
  11 Sherpas and 2 sirdars above BC same loads to C1
  5 weeks to summit from BC
  Leave Nepal 15 May (1st group )
  Oxygen medical only

  Hauser Expedition to Manaslu
  2nd group arrive KTM 8 or 10 April and on BC about 20 April and also 5 weeks 
    on mountain 
  1st group: 14 members
  2nd group: 16 + 1 (1=Schreckenbach) who meets them in BC
  Mr Heimbach brings 2nd group to Nepal and BC.


expid: AMAD81101
peakid: AMAD
year: 1981
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Ramon Bramona
sponsor: Catalan Expedition to Ama Dablam
ascent1: 14th,15th
countries: France
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1981-03-22
smtdate: 1981-04-28
campsites: BC(22/03,4980m),C1(03/04,5800m),C2A(09/04,5890m),C2B(15/04,5950m),C3(25/04,6300m),Smt(28/04,01/05)
routememo:
  Massons - 8 May 81

  All probably arrived today and same leave 11 May.
  2nd group on top 12:30 pm; left 4:00 am and returned C3 6:00 pm.

  1st group putting fixed ropes and climbing and 2nd group used same ropes.

  C3 maybe only 6280m.

  No accidents, no frostbite.


  Bramona - 19 March 81

  South Ridge route = 1979 Spring

  Arrive BC 25-26 March at 4800 or 4900m (first ABC) southwest of mountain.
  3 camps above BC.
  C1 - 5700m
  C2 - 5900m (ridge gains little altitude)
  C3 - 6350m  

  3-4 weeks climbing depending on weather
  Sirdar and 3 Sherpas above BC
  Oxygen medical only


expid: JANU81101
peakid: JANU
year: 1981
route1: S Ridge (French 1962 rte)
nation: Spain
leaders: Mari Abrego Santesteban
sponsor: Expedicion Navarra al Himalaya - Jannu 1981
ascent1: 9th
approach: Dhankuta->Yamatari Glacier
bcdate: 1981-03-27
smtdate: 1981-05-07
campsites:
  BC(27/03,4450m),C1(30/03,4800m),C2(01/04,5400m),C3(09/04,5900m),C4(22/04,6400m),C5(27/04,6900m),C6(04/05,7300m),Smt(07/05)

routememo:
  Garayoa - 29 May 81

  Route was South Ridge, French 1962 route. Camps same places as French (Spanish altimeter perhaps not correct). One avalanche 19 April at C3 and 2 members go down about 50m and tents all broken. Little change in route between C1 and C2: French on ridge while Spanish same as Japanese 1974 by going to glacier. C6 occupied 4 May and then waited for good weather for summit which came on 7th May; slept again in C6 7th May night.


  Garayoa - 5 March 81

  Route to be decided in BC: West Ridge or South Ridge
  BC on Yamatari Glacier at 4400m
  If South Ridge route: 3 or 4 camps; if West Ridge route: maybe 4 camps
  When leave KTM go by road to Dhankuta and 14-15 days march
  6 Sherpas above BC
  Oxygen for medical only


expid: EVER96201
peakid: EVER
year: 1996
route1: N Face (Japanese Couloir) (to 7300m)
route2: N Ridge-N Face (to 8300m)
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Jean Troillet
sponsor: Everest Expedition
countries: Australia, Canada, France, USA
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 1996-07-21
smtdate: 1996-09-25
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to very strong wind
campsites: RoadCamp(21/07,5200m),BC(06/07,5500m),ABC(06/08,6000m),xxx(25/09,8300m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at normal route's base
  ABC on normal route's base from east side of North Col.

  First climbed up Japanese Couloir in first attempt on mountain; reached 7300m and then down because wind slab avalanche danger and winds very strong. 

  2nd attempt via N Ridge to 7700m on 20th Sept and left where winds got very strong and again all snow blown away planned to descend by ski (Arpin) & snowboard (Troillet) so had to have snow on mountain. 

  3rd attempt left BC on 24th and non-stop to 7700m, spent few hours there and reached 8300m having left tent at 8000m and then with increasing winds turned back and climb finished.


expid: CHUW81101
peakid: CHUW
year: 1981
route1: N Ridge
nation: Taiwan
leaders: Chang Wen-Shi
bcdate: 1981-04-08
smtdate: 1981-04-12
smttime: 1810
campsites: BC(08/04,4800m),C1(10/04,5600m),C2(11/04,6100m),Smt(12/04)
accidents: This was the highest altitude ever reached by the Taiwanese
routememo:
  The 4-man Taiwanese party led by Chang Wen-Shi (34) climbed by normal route. BC (4800m) was on 8 April, C1 (5600m) on 10th, C2 (6100m) on 11th. Next day Chang Ming-Lung (30) and Sirdar Jangbu (28) reached the summit at 18:10 after 10 hrs climb from C2. This was the highest altitude ever reached by the Taiwanese.


expid: EVER81101
peakid: EVER
year: 1981
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Claude Marmier, Pierre Astorg
sponsor: French Military Expedition to Qomolungma
approach: Rongbuk Glacier
bcdate: 1981-03-03
smtdate: 1981-05-15
termdate: 1981-06-01
termnote: Abandoned at 8550m due to continuing bad weather
campsites:
  BC(03/03,5200m),C1(5600m),C2(6000m),C3(6500m),C4(03/04,7020m),C5(21/04,7600m),C6(13/05,8250m),xxx(15/05,8550m)

routememo:
  The 28-man French Army party, led by Jean-Claude Marmier attempted the original NE Ridge route in Spring. A four-man reconnaissance party had been sent a year before to 7000m. 

  The climb to N Col was disturbed by a storm on 14th April. N Col (7020m) was reached on 3rd, but C4 there was made later. C5 (7600m) was occupied on 1 May. 

  The 1st summit bid was attempted by leader Marmier, Robert Flematti and Herve Sachetat on 13th. But they had to descend from C6 by high winds. 

  The 2nd bid on 15th by Denis Ducroz, Jean-Claude Mosca, Bernard Prudhomme and Pierre Royer was disturbed by storm. Mosca and Royer stayed at C6 for three days and reached a high point of 8550m on 18th, but they had to descend by bad weather. 

  The third bid was attempted on 27th. Hubert Giot, Mosca and Sachetat regained a high point of 8550m, but they were suffered by storm again. A bivouac at 8500m was forced that night. 

  They abandoned further climb due to the continuing bad weather and returned to C3 next day. BC was evacuated on June 1.


expid: KTEG81101
peakid: KTEG
year: 1981
route1: W Face from Kyashar Glacier
nation: France
leaders: Denise Escande
sponsor: GHM Expedition
countries: Switzerland
othersmts: Thamserku (had permit, but did not attempt); climbed Hiunchuli instead
routememo:
  Due to shortage of time, the team abandoned plans for attempting Kangtega and Thamserku and climbed Hiunchuli instead.


  Escande

  Approach from SW via glacier (Kyashar glacier). BC on moriane if possible, not on glacier. Altitude not known yet, depends on snow route not yet known. Somewhere on southern or SW. Try to climb as much as possible alpine style; didn't know whether will climb all together or not. No Sherpas above BC.

  Hope to leave 3 April to Lukla.

  3 Swiss including Aspen climb together a lot, 3 French are frequent climbing companies.


  Escande - 28 March 81

  Leader here now; others arrive 29th and 31st.

  Leave KTM 2nd April if get Lukla seats. Leave Nepal 8th May. Leave BC 3 or 4 May for Lukla ('63 was SE Ridge not face).

  Route = on south side. Will try several routes, we hope BC on glaciers to south of mountain at 4800m. At BC or above for 1 month probably one camp above BC. No Sherpas above BC. Not on expedition or group of friends, but collection of people who want to climb in Nepal. GHM? which got permit and made arrangements for climb with Nepalese authorities and then allowed anyone who is known to be competent climber to sign up; they go to BC and climb as and when they like, independently.

  One member, Aspen was with Swiss on Everest in 1952. Escande and others will do long trek back to Ktm via Teshi Lapcha and Rolwaling.


expid: LSHR81101
peakid: LSHR
year: 1981
route1: S Ridge-SE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Xabier Erro Jauregui
sponsor: Lhotse Basque Expedition 1981
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1981-04-06
smtdate: 1981-05-09
othersmts: Had permit for Lhotse (LHOT-811-03)
campsites: BC(06/04,5200m),C1(12/04,5700m),C2(27/04,6800m),Biv(08/05,7200m),Biv(09/05,7550m),xxx(7550m)
routememo:
  De Pablo - 23 May 81

  De Pablo came by plane from Lukla 21 May; others walking and arrived KTM 25-26 May. Same route tried before unsuccessfully by Japanese De Pablo thinks.

  BC 5200m just east of Island Peak on 6 April 
  Route then to col at 5700m of Island Peak (see Schneider map)

  C1 5700m 12 May on snowfields north-northwest of col, then route along ridge from col north and north-northeast - from col all fixed rope.

  C2 at 6800m, no place for it lower. 27 April 2nd tried alpine-style from C2 after 400m fixed roped to end of ridge at 7200m and after roped down for rest. Passed one night there (not really C3). De Pablo and Zabaleta were there on 8th May.

  9 May arrived 7550m; slope very dangerous from avalanche, much snow. Were now at top of curve or ridge. Slept all day 10 May there in bad weather with intention to go to top of Lhotse Shar, but bad storm that night with strong wind.

  11 May at 4:00 am got up to descend when one small wind avalanche carried rucksacks, etc. down Lhotse face. Men down 20m but everything else way down. Difficult now to go down in storm in 12 hours to C2 and Martin's hand frostbitten but not badly: had lost one glove and 1 crampon (got another glove at 7200m). De Pablo lost goggles and was snowblinded that night.

  12 May arrived C1 and BC; others were in BC.

  Only 3 climbers through out climb because Erro had serious medical problem before BC [Yugoslavia Lhotse doctor thinks he had heart attack].

  Lot of wind and snow this season, wind always blowing.

  Spanish route is difficult but safe; Austria's Lhotse Shar route was through icefall which is dangerous.

  Spaniards found very old fixed rope 1 mm ice probably Japanese rope.

  Never intended to go to Lhotse Main Peak but since Lhotse Shar not on permitted list, had to have permit for Lhotse. 

  Used no oxygen; had four bottles at BC and one at C2.


  Erro - 10 March 81

  Lhotse Basque Expedition 1981

  Approach via Chhukung to Imja Glacier to Lhotse Shar Glacier to SE Face (1978 autumn Swiss route).

  BC on Lhotse South Glacier at 5200m
  4 camps above BC with C4 at 7500m and then biv
  4 members and 3 Sherpas only
  Oxygen medical only

  Leave KTM soon as baggage arrives and fly to Lukla.

  Climb Island Peak to acclimatize and see route; about 4 weeks from BC to Lhotse summit.

  Not sure exact route because have little information face; maybe like Lhotse West Face - traverse. Lhotse Shar high up new summit perhaps on Nepal side, perhaps on Chinese side.

  Have Basque flag for summit.

accidents:
  Zabaleta hand frostbitten; De Pablo temporary snowblindness; Erro had serious medical problem, probably heart attack


expid: DHA181101
peakid: DHA1
year: 1981
route1: N Face
nation: Argentina
leaders: Alberto Mario Serrano
sponsor: Fifth Argentine Expedition to Himalayas
approach: Pokhara->Myagdi Khola->BC
bcdate: 1981-03-29
smtdate: 1981-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to bad weather and death of member
campsites:
  BC(29/03,4500m),C1(06/04,5000m),C2(10/04,5500m),C3(15/04,6000m),C4(22/04,6530m),C5(04/05,7200m),C6(22/05,7600m),xxx(7600m)

routememo:
  Serrano was too ambitious [but inexperienced?] to reach summit himself. He was not a strong enough climber and should have left high climbing to those who were, but insisted in going up himself.
   
  2 could have stayed at C6 and gone to top after weather improved, but torn tents left space for only 2 members, not 4 and Serrano did not agree for only 2 to go down from C6.

  No one realized about all his pills until they were found after his death. It's possible he died of overdose. Probably he simply climbed into sleeping bag and died freezing to death. His death just like Ibanez in 1954 who also erroneously insisted in going to top.


  Vitale - 13 June 81

  29 March reached BC at 4500m. 

  16 days from Italian camp 16 km southwest of BC to BC because too much snow and avalanche as result (Italian camp at 3500m for SW Pillar).

  After BC established, began to search area and 6 April established C1 at 5000m. Continued walking through rocky area all covered by snow.

  10 April C2 at 5500m. From this point up tried to open route through many crevasses and big seracs. C3 as ABC established at 6000m 15 April. After this began period of bad weather and could not maintain same speed of progress.

  22 April C4 established at 6530m below Pear and made small cave in ice and put 600m fixed rope between C3 and C4.

  Again bad weather. Almost 1 week [later] established C5 above Pear on 4 May at 7200m and on this part fixed rope all way (almost 600m) on left gully of Pear.

  Worked in 2 parts:
  1) established camps and route to C5
  2) C5 to summit; between these 2 parts, should rest 5 days.
   
  10 May all returned to BC for good rest. Then ready to go up again but period of bad weather. 1st group started up on 17th May and reached ABC on 18th May by Serrano, Cuinas, Rosasco and Sungdare, and two Gyalgens.

  21 May this group of 6 started from C5 to make C6 with Sherpa to carry loads to C6 and returned to C3. But climb difficult because of heavy snow. They bived below a small wall of 10m height near NW Ridge; biv at 7550m.

  22 May some started again, 4 reached C6 at 7600m. 2 Gyalgen Sherpas returned to C3 as planned. At C3 were Ila Tashi and 2 other Sherpas, Lyon, Aguilar, Vitale, the 2nd group ready for their own summit attempt but as weather turning bad (windy and snowfalling) and not safe, stayed in C3 while first group stayed C6.

  23 May weather still bad. Strong wind and some snow falling. 1 of tents at C6 collapsed, in the other poles broke. Decided to returned to C3. When passing by C4, saw C4 completely covered with snow. While returning put in some fixed rope between C6 and C5 for 2nd group's attempt (from 3 to 5 fixed ropes already in place). While descending saw big avalanches between C4 and C3. Each man returned separately, not roped together, because using fixed ropes.

  Sungdare came 1st, next Cuinas, Serrano, Rosasco; in descent Rosasco caught up to Serrano, who said he wanted to be in 2nd group's summit attempt and asked Rosasco to keep his walkie-talkie because of weight (over 1 kg). Rosasco advised Serrano to stay in C5 that night. Rosasco went on down: left Serrano at about 7400m at 4:00 pm. Serrano assumed to be in good shape. At C3, which Rosasco reached at 9:00 pm because of deep snow, they thought Serrano was in C5. During night Aguilar and Lyon went up to meet Cuinas, Rosasco and Sungdare because they had no headlamp and water and were tired. They reached end of fixed ropes between C3 and C4 at 6200-6250m. Met Rosasco at about 8:00 pm who was a little weaker. Cuinas and Rosasco had no sleeping bag and only Serrano had equipment (but not carrying oxygen). If others didn't meet him he would have reached C2 alone.

  24 May in early am watched from C3 and BC to C5 for Serrano to come out, but no sign of life at C5 for Serrano to come to C3. At first not worried because thought when warmer he would emerge. Then suddenly at site where Rosasco and Serrano had parted, they saw sleeping bag and thought Serrano inside but no movement. Continued watch from C3 and BC and later Aguilar in C3 and Castiarena and Viton in C2 saw bag begin to slide. Even without binoculars could see bag fall vertically 1200m from 7400m to 6200m; saw shape of human body and during fall all came apart: saw 4 falling objects: body, rucksack, mattress and bag. Think he froze at night and when sun thawed, body, et al, moved. Serrano had walked only 50m from point where Rosasco and Serrano had parted and where Serrano had said wanted to go up with 3rd group, that not so difficult to reach final ridge.

  Think Serrano pretending to be in better shape than actually was. All those who were high on mountain had been in Himalayas. Serrano and Rosasco had been on Everest in 1971, Cuinas on Manaslu 1979 with others of this expedition: almost all had high altitude experience. Serrano very ambitious to reach summit as were others on 24 May when saw falling objects tried to organise search party to see closer and Lyon, Aguilar, Ila Tashi and Ang Nima started from C3 to crevasse where body had fallen in. 2 hours climb and bad weather cloud and snowfall again and forced returned to C3 without having reached crevasse. Could see trail in snow into crevasse made by body. Were 200m from crevasse at same altitude at 4:00 pm and then turned back to C3. At C3 Vitale talked with BC by walkie-talkie. All consulted and decided to abandon expedition that evening.

  No further attempt to reach body because danger from avalanche, didn't know how deep was crevasse and he was certainly dead, had he been alive it would have been worthwhile to go.

  Pear = rocky wall triangular shape and it face 300m wide at 6500m altitude and its top is at 7200m altitude - avalanche of Pear is 50 degrees.

  Highest point ever reached on North Face was 8000m in 1954; 1956 reached near 8000m.

  Serrano 2nd Argentinian to died on Dhaulagiri; leader of 1954 Francisco Serrano died in KTM hospital.

  Used in most modern equipment available.
  Reaction of all members to unlucky accident was deep sorrow.
   
  Failure of expedition due to bad weather in May, after good in April. Didn't expect so much bad weather, told small monsoon coming early. Demoralized by Serrano's death and weather prevented another attempt.

  All rocky parts covered by loose snow which made hard work and consumed much time. According to previous expeditions experience, no avalanches between C3 and C4 but could see and hear them including big avalanches.

  More than 1000m fixed rope - almost 1100m.

  If not accident could have reached summit though don't know difficulty above C6; from ridge, a zone on towers at 7800m which maybe most difficult part of climb. 1st Argentina expedition crossed this area.

  Vitale thinks another Argentina expedition will try North Face in future; money and permit are problems.


  Vitale - 8 June 81

  Ministry's camp dates correct for BC to C5-C6 = 22 May; for altitudes see sketch map by Vitale.

  Had frequent bad weather with much snow and wind; steady progress to C5 at top of "pear."

  Route fairly easy to 7600m. Above this part, which none reached on this expedition is 45-degree steepness and heavy snow which would make progress slow. Had this problem below 7600m of loose soft snow. Below 7600m wind was big problem.

  4-21 May much bad weather for many days, waiting for improvement.

  Made C5 and then down and rested at BC; in this period weather good, thus after bad weather.

  Below C4 many avalanches on 23 and 24 May from accumulated snow - 2 big avalanches.

  No 2nd attempt because of weather above C5. Found Polish oxygen bottle and Serrano used it for few minutes, Vitale thinks. Left it behind in descent after Serrano's accident, see typed report and sketch.

  Rosasco did not stay with Serrano in descent to C5 because neither realized Serrano really exhausted. He (Serrano) spoke of going up again, not words of exhausted man. After his death, they found amongst his thing many pills to sleep and to keep awake. He must have been on pep pills on 23 May and when their effect more off he collapsed, bivouacked and froze to death.

  What people in C3 saw at 8:00 am on 24 May was Serrano dead in bag, but at first they thought he was asleep (he was late sleeper habitually) or waiting for warm sun. Then sun melted some snow and body in bag fell: fell out of bag, bag came apart and others items also fell out.

  No one went up from C3 to Serrano after 8:00 am spotting him because it would take at least 2 days to reach that point in all deep fresh snow; plus avalanching below C4 anad Sherpas didn't like to go up.

  Serrano overestimated his abilities. Vitale in Buenos Aires told him to be expedition leader and leave difficult climbing to experts, but he insisted in going out in front. Vitale knew him from Everest.

  There was no contract requiring members to take Serrano to top.


  Watzel - 8 May 81

  C5 on top of pear about 7200m.
  28 April members came down from rear site.

  4 May would have gone to establish camp at 7600m can put 2 tents and from there to top about 15-25 May.


  Vitale - 21 Feb 81

  Route = North Face Pear route
  BC - at site of last Argentina and C1 at 4500m
  C5 - above Pear at 7000m
  C6 - 7500m

  Route goes round Pear to left
  C5 is difficult; where to put tents ?; have very small tents for this camp and try to find where 1954 expedition placed.
  1956 - reached 7650m
  1954 - reached 8000m

  Problems:
  1) where to put C1 to avoid avalanches; may be best to make a cave
  2) Pear - put camp C5 - no site?
  3) above C6 small towers, difficult rock climb; this was 1954 expedition's problem; they made bivouac and during night, 40 cm snow fell.

  Leave KTM 25 or 26 Feb by road to Pokhara. Trek Myagdi Khola to BC; 13 days to BC ex-Pokhara with 250-280 porters.

  Summit (late April) early May.
  10 Sherpas above BC; sirdar Ila Tashi

  Oxygen comes with member arriving early March; will try not to use it, but will if necessary: 26 bottles.

  This 5th Argentina expedition to Nepal 
  1954 and 1956 Dhaulagiri, 1971 Everest, 1979 Manaslu

  Fifth Argentina Expedition to Himalayas
  50th Anniversity of Club Andino Bariloche
  Climbing leader of 1954 expedition Watzel will trek to BC in April.


expid: DHA181103
peakid: DHA1
year: 1981
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hironobu Kamuro
sponsor: Research Centre of High Mountain Dhaulagiri Expedition
ascent1: 17th
approach: Pokhara->Dhampus Pass->BC
bcdate: 1981-05-25
smtdate: 1981-06-02
smttime: 1830
termdate: 1981-06-06
accidents: Kamuro frostbitten toes and headache
achievment: 1st Japanese soloist of 8000m
agency: Nepal Trekking
campsites:
  BC(25/05,5000m),Biv1(27/05,5500m),Biv2(28/05,5700m),Biv3(29/05,6400m),Biv4(30/05,7300m),Biv5(31/05,7600m),Smt(02/06)

routememo:
  Kamuro - 14 June 81

  Left KTM 6 May and arrived BC 25 May.

  Summit 6:30 pm from 7600m; left 5:30 am, stayed 5-10 minutes on top and down to 7600m at 8:00 pm. 7900m and up very slow, heavy headache, needed rest too much. 

  Found 7700m old broken tents. Found couloir made in top above 7900m and ice axe there. Route is easy after acclimatization but altitude problem. Too much snow, very dangerous deep snow and very windy. Almost I couldn't see anything on top. Had altimeter with him on summit but didn't look at it on summit. Took 3 pix on top and from near top could take pix to show top.

  1 Sherpa, Pasang, went to NE Col with Kamuro;  solo is good, no stress, no trouble.

  Kamuro 1st top soloist of 8000m. Kamuro opened mountain school in Pamirs 6 years ago and this year another Aconcagua will go to Shishapangma next year with 2-3 friends via South Face.

  Toes frozen last year in Alaska and last parts 2 toes on right foot.

  Expedition cost $7500. 

  Kamuro carried 15 Kg to NE Col and from col upwards.


  Sharma, Tourism - 14 June 81

  HMG gave 10 days extension from 31 May because of lack of aircraft to get to BC in time. 

  Japanese was not aware of extension. LO was at Jomsom and no communication system with expedition. While in KTM had been given permit to go to NE Ridge if Canadians had finished.


  Kamuro & Takamoto - 12 June 81

  Yamamoto left Nepal from KTM on 5 May. Kamuro and Miss Takamoto went to Pokhara by bus and then 3 weeks to BC on foot. Arrive BC 25 May 5000m; alpine-style by Kamuro to NE Col. Started 27 May and stayed 1 night at Col on 25th; too many small avalanches on East Face to go up face; on NE Ridge Kamuro solo:

  25 May make BC
  26 May Kamuro in BC while Takamoto goes down for supplies at moraine camp
  27 May Kamuro to 6500m looking for route: Takamoto returned to BC
  28 May Kamuro arrived NE Col: Takamoto in BC
  29 May to 6400m
  30 May to 7300m
  31 May to 7800m and back to 7600m for night
  1 June Takamoto to NE Col and waited for Kamuro to return there on 4 June.
  1 June rested at 7600m
  2 June to summit 6:30 pm and to 7600m at 8:00 pm, cold and windy, found old 
    fixed rope (maybe Swiss) for speedy descent
  3 June rested at 7600m
  4 June to NE Col 5700m 
  5 June to BC
  Left BC 6 June.

  Kamuro used old fixed rope little bit, none of his own; carried biv tent, sleeping bag, food and gas, 1 rope, camera, ice axe and ice hammer, no oxygen.

  Kamuro 6 frostbitten toes but not lose much of anything. No accident, bad headache 6400m on 29 May but no headache on 30 May; at 7600m on 31 May some Cheyne-Stokes breathing while sleeping; from 7400m very sleepy but still went up; on summit just wanted to go down quickly; more Cheyne-Stokes other sleeping times also.

  Over one month Japanese to BC. Japanese acclimatization no good by time reached BC.

  Climbed Aconcagua in January this helped acclimatization. "I am very happy and lucky."


  J P Lama, Nepal Tkg - 9 June 81

  C2 established 2 weeks ago, says porter who has returned to BC. No idea when will stop climbing and when will return to KTM. Has no mailrunner, but will walk back, not come by helicopter.


  Al Burgess - 26 May 81

  Met Japanese Dhaulagiri I member 21 May mid-day between Dhampus and French Passes 1-1/2 hours before French Pass on his way to BC that day.

  Roped route of NE Ridge all way to 24,400 feet which could use.

  [Sharma of Tourism Ministry says BC established by 19 May]


  Kamuro - 24 April 81

  2 climbing members 
  1 BC mgr
  Leave 26 April on charter Twin Otter at Jomsom
  Arrive BC about 1 May at 4700m with 4 porters
  ABC on NE Col 5700m
  Alpine-style from ABC via East Face probably via British-Polish route to NE Ridge.

  2 months ago I climbed Aconcogua in 5 days; has climbed McKinley and lost toes right foot in 1980; then in Nagoya I did acclimatization chamber: in 6 days to 8000m, left chamber 20 days ago. 

  Summit on 20 May
  Came late: " we don't need time." No oxygen: "we don't need."
  On return to KTM will trek ot Pokhara; 3 weeks from summit to KTM
  1 sirdar and 2 kitchen boys to BC only.


  Shailendra Sharma - 29 Jan 81

  20 days Nagoya to Nagoya.
  2 weeks acclimatization machine in Nagoya; helicopter to BC 3rd day from chamber; climb 15 days.


expid: NILS81101
peakid: NILS
year: 1981
route1: S Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Motoo Iwasaki
sponsor: Nilgiri S. South Face Expedition 1981
bcdate: 1981-04-06
smtdate: 1981-04-11
termdate: 1981-04-25
campsites: BC(06/04,4250m),C1(10/04,5100m),xxx(11/04,5740m)
routememo:
  Takegawa - 4 May 81

  Arrived KTM 2 and 3 May.
  Route they tried was direct route up dotted line to East Ridge
  BC = 4250m arrived 6 April.

  Biv point, C1=5100m on 11 April. 5 members started 4:00 am and 11:00 am at 5700m and deposited some food and equipment. Then 4 members climbed 40m higher but icefall in good condition but very difficult 20m high. At 11:00 very hot sun and all go down. At 3:40 pm are Shimizu hit by avalanche at 5400m and gas down 200m with avalanche but Ok.

  12-13 April all members rested in BC
  14 April - 4 went again to biv point
  15 April 1:00 am 3 went up 300m but very deep soft snow and warm, so down
     to biv; in afternoon all in BC
  15-18 April snowstorm
  19 April - 4 up but at biv point depot of food, tent, gas, etc. gone; 
     made snowhole
  20 April - again snowfall and they went down to BC
  21-22 April - rested in BC
  23 April - 4 men went up but bad snow conditions and returned to BC
  24 April - BC supplies very low so went to village to bring food
  25 April - expedition finished

  Highest point = 5740m reached 11 April by Shimizu, Takegawa, Abe and Horiuchi (went down same day).

  Route is really good route. 3 or 4 strong men can climb in 3 days. Takegawa will come again in autumn 1982.

  No serious illness or frostbite.


  Yamazaki and Takegawa - 18 March 81

  Route = South Face, new route up south side down East Ridge to north side.
  Approach via Mristi Khola.
  BC in of "B" of Thulobugin on Harka's map
  BC at 4300m
  No camps on face, alpine-style. First Japanese alpine-style climb in Himalayas 
    (but have been in Andes).
  Descent via East Ridge to north side (autumn 1978 Japanese route)
  No Sherpas above BC
  Oxygen medical only
  Leave KTM 19 March 
  12-15 days Pokhara/BC, arrive BC 1-2 April.
  30 days climbing: 25 for acclimatization and route finding and 5 days actual climb to summit. 

  For acclimatization will climb Sarpong Dhuri (16,424 feet of Kali Gandaki). After Sarpong Dhuri, go to north side Nilgiri South to find descent route and then go to south side to climb. Leave some food on north side in depot, but no personnel.


expid: GAN281101
peakid: GAN2
year: 1981
route1: W Face-S Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiroyasu Shirakabe
sponsor: Nihon University Department of Science and Technology Joint Exp
bcdate: 1981-03-19
smtdate: 1981-05-05
termdate: 1981-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to lack of snow bars and rope
othersmts: Climbed Ganesh VI (GAN6-811-01)
campsites:
  TempBC(19/03,4050m),BC(24/03,4750m),C1(07/04,5300m),ABC(12/04,5800m),C2(30/04,6300m),C3(04/05,6700m),xxx(05/05,6800m)

routememo:
  This mountain previously known as Ganesh III until re-surveyed in early 1990's.

  Tejima - 22 May 81

  All members now in KTM, Tejima arrives 21 May
  TBC 4050m - 19 March
  BC  4750m - 24 March
  C1  5300m -  7 April
  ABC 5800m - 12 April
  C2  6300m - 30 April
  C3  6700m -  4 May

  Reached high point 5 May 6800m and then decided to abandon. Long way to summit and short of snow bars and fixed rope. Each part of route had some problems: icefall on steep rock face or steep ice. By 5 May weather changed with lot of snow, thought monsoon coming.

  Route was South Ridge - same as 1980 attempt

  One member fell and broke left wrist on rotten rock, fell 2-3m

  Not so cold so no frostbite.


  Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 17 May 81

  Abandoned climbing 5 May after pitching C3 at 6800m on 3 May. Bad weather and very difficult route prevented their going above C3. Left BC 13 May for return to KTM. Health good.

  Mailrunner says no accidents or frostbite. Will reach KTM 20-21 May.


  Tejima - 25 Feb 81

  All now in KTM - leave KTM 8 March
  Same as 1980 spring South or SW Ridge route
  Yesterday Sharma said permit will be Ok after all documemts received.

  Nepal members (required to be on permit):
   1) Ang Pasang, 24 (Everest autumn winter 1980)
   2) Dorje Sherpa, 23 (also Everest autumn and winter 1980 )

  Sirdar = Pasang Sonam was on Gyachung Kang 1964 

  Will probably stay in Lazimpat house on return to KTM

  2 difficulties :
   1) Icefall below C1 of about 4500-5000m
   2) last part of ridge at about 6600m to top; very knife-edged and long way from highest camp: 4 km may put about C4 half way along this difficult sector.


  Tejima - 18 Feb 81

  Route = South Ridge, same as spring 1980 (met their leader and discussed tactics)
  1980 spring took many days to cross icefall and on lower parts
  Now will make BC 4750m where 1980 spring had C1. 
  Will have C1
  ABC = 6000m 
  C3  = 6500-6600m
  9 climbers and 1 doctor = Japanese members 
  2 Nepalese members and 1 sirdar + 5 HA Sherpas
  5 HA Sherpas to ABC
  3 members now in KTM 
  Most members arrive KTM 23 Feb
  Leave for Trisuli 1 March or so; 2 weeks caravan to BC. 
  Summit early May (this our first expedition to Himalayas so maybe take long time)
  3 oxygen for medical only


expid: NILN81101
peakid: NILN
year: 1981
route1: E Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Nobuo Shiraishi
sponsor: Fukuoka Glacier Climbers Club of Himalaya Expedition 1981
ascent1: 2nd
bcdate: 1981-04-05
smtdate: 1981-05-07
smttime: 1900
termdate: 1981-05-13
campsites:
  BC(05/04,3800m),C1(11/04,4850m),C2(14/04,5670m),C3(24/04,6200m),C4(03/05,6350m),C5(04/05,6500m),C6(05/05,6580m),Smt(07/05)

routememo:
  Shiraishi & Noda - 23 May 81

  Ministry's camps and dates and summit correct except BC=3800m
  Route = East Ridge (new route)

  Difficult parts of route were:
  1) between C2 and C3: icefall of 100m
  2) between C3 and top sharp knife-edge ridge

  After C3 established, all down for rest at BC for several days. Up again 30th and reached C3 and 2 May (C3 below summit of peak of 6493m east of Nilgiri North)

  3 May - down and up to next peak where made temporary camp at 6350m
  4 May - again down and to another peak where camped at 6500m 
  5 May - camp at 6580m 
  6 May - bad weather; stayed in 5th camp
  7 May - to summit of Nilgiri North and bivouac at 6850m in down clothing only.

  On top 7:00 pm; left C5 at 6:00 am; summiters were Hino and Miyazaki. Little frostbite.

  No other summit attempt because not enough food and gas for such long route. 
  4 km from Peak 6493 to Nilgiri North along knife ridge, with hidden crevasse.


  Shiraishi and Miyazaki - 14 March 81

  Approach route to Jomsom and east with BC at 4500m southwest of "Meso" on Harka's map.
  Climbing route = East Ridge (new route).

  Over 6500m peak east of Nilgiri North to East Ridge which is then 4 km from this unnamed peak to North Nilgiri.

  10 members, all in KTM. 2 arrived 5 March and others 12 March now waitiing baggage.
  By truck to Pokhara; 10 days Pokhara -> BC
  3 camps and 1 attack camp above BC
  C1  - 5200-5300m
  C2 -  6200m north side of Peak 6500m
  C3  - 6300m at col between Peak 6500m and Nilgiri North
  C4  - 6700m on ridge
  2 Sherpas above BC
  30-40 days climbing
  Oxygen medical only
  Difficulty in length of ridge from Peak 6500m. 
  Ridge is not sharp knife-edge, but South Face is sheer drop.


expid: HIME81101
peakid: HIME
year: 1981
route1: S Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hideo Nishigori
sponsor: Gakushuin University Himalaya Expedition 1981
bcdate: 1981-03-27
smtdate: 1981-05-04
campsites:
  BC(27/03,3500m),C1(01/04,4450m),C2(06/04,5200m),C3(11/04,6000m),C4(24/04,6200m),C5(01/05,6520m),xxx(04/05,6900m)

routememo:
  Nishigori - 19 May 81

  All members returned KTM yesterday. High point was 4 May by Kato and Tsuji. Stopped because route difficult. Approach via East Ridge of Bauda very long and needed total 3 camps not 2 as expected. Then South Ridge of Himalchuli was up and down, steep ice, difficult for carrying loads, Sherpas could not carry and this "consumed our days." Most difficult part of route still ahead on final summit ridge. Route is possible - need 6 camps and better climbing Sherpas.

  All Ok, no accidents or frostbite.
  Did not climb Bauda or any other summit.


  Nishigori - 7 March 81

  2 arrive tomorrow. All leave 10 March by road to Trisuli Bazar, then caravan to 
    BC at foot South Ridge (13 days).
  BC at 3500m on Chhulung Glacier; 5 camps with highest at 7200m. 
  11 years ago Japanese climbed same route via very easy ridge to C2 and thence 
    to Bauda.
  South Ridge of Himalchuli = new route
  3 Sherpas above BC, hope they carry to final C5.

  Route difficult from pass between C2 and C3 to top especially above C5 where very steep rock and must go over on to snow on West (left) side of ridge and return to ridge near summit.

  Oxygen for use sleeping only at C5 and emergency.


expid: LANG81101
peakid: LANG
year: 1981
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Toshiyuki Yoshida
sponsor: Gunma Workers Himalayan Expedition of Japan 1981
ascent1: 3rd,4th
approach: Trisuli Bazar->Langtang Valley
bcdate: 1981-03-25
smtdate: 1981-04-26
campsites: BC(25/03,4300m),C1(27/03,4800m),C2(08/04,5500m),C3(18/04,6000m),C4(24/04,6700m),Smt(26,28/04)
routememo:
  Mogi - 6 May 81

  Others members arrive through evening. Mogi only one here now. More members did not try for summit because food very limited so had to stop.

  Lucky chance for weather. Many snowing days so spent 4 days for snow in April could not move, then weather improved. Much fixed rope above C1 but 500m lost in avalanche. Many avalanches every day below C2. 4 members and 1 Sherpa hit by ice block. 2 hurt leg and shoulder but no bones broken between C1 and C2. This section not so difficult. C2->C3 difficult rock climbing; very steep and covered ice, 4-5 grade in European climbing, 40-50 degrees.

  All members very good condition, no frostbite.
  SE Ridge = very good route
  Ministry's reports of camps and summit correct except C3 on 18 April.


  Kimura - 16 March 81

  Route = SE Ridge, same route as autumn 1980 Japanese
  6 members arrive 15th and 3 arrive on 8th. 
  Leave KTM 18 March to Trisuli Bazaar; 7 days caravan to BC.
  BC at 4000m; 4 camps above BC.
  Arrive BC 24 March. 44 days to climb mountain. 
  Most difficult between C2 and C3 rock climbing.
  3 Sherpas above BC including sirdar.
  Oxygen medical only


expid: KGUR81101
peakid: KGUR
year: 1981
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Shoichi Kobayashi
sponsor: Matsumoto Gakayukai Club Kang Guru Expedition of Life and Mount 1981
ascent1: 3rd,4th
bcdate: 1981-03-22
smtdate: 1981-04-27
campsites: BC(22/03,4200m),C1(29/03,5200m),C2(07/04,5700m),C3(25/04,6500m),Smt(27-28/04)
routememo:
  Kobayashi - 18 May 81

  C2 to C3 very difficult knife-edge ridge. 3100m fixed rope from little above C1 to above C3.
  Ministry's camp information and summits correct.

  Murata not to summit because got hepatitis.

  1st summit party fell 300m: Segi, Yamamoto and Ang Temba in descent from top, but not hurt as fell with snow avalanche. One member and sirdar have a little frostbite.

  Arrived KTM 16 & 18 May


  Kobayashi - 28 Feb 81

  Route = SW Ridge, new route if Brits did not try it
  2 members now in KTM; other 4 arrive 2 March (and 2 Iwabuchi brothers 4 April 
    who not climbers go to BC only).
  Leave 10 March for 13-15 days
  Approach march (see sketch map in application)
  BC at 4500m; 3 camps above BC, all on ridge
  C3 at 6500m
  "I think easy" re-SW Ridge 
  Summit 20 May
  3 Sherpas above BC
  Oxygen medical only


expid: BARU81101
peakid: BARU
year: 1981
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hideaki Yoshinaga
sponsor: Himalayan Expedition of Chiba University 1981
ascent1: 10th,11th
bcdate: 1981-03-22
smtdate: 1981-04-24
smttime: 1137
campsites: BC(22/03,5000m),C1(27/03,5200m),C2(30/03,5750m),C3(07/04,6140m),C4(15/04,6600m),Smt(24-25/04)
routememo:
  Toriumi - 30 May 81

  All members arrive yesterday except leader who left early for Japan (flew ex-Lukla, rest trekked to KTM).

  C4 15 April at 6600m, other ministry camp data and summit correct
  Between C4 and summit: bad weather and route making
  Route = SE Ridge of 1954 and 2 Japanese expeditions Autumn 1980 and Winter 1980-81

  Only 3 members to top because some altitude sickness, some not so strong and weather not good.

  Oxygen used 30 minutes before going to sleep in C4.

  No accidents, frostbite or avalanche.
  Did not climb other peaks.

  Route very easy BC to C4, but above C4 difficult: very big crevasses and snow very soft (would be harder in post monsoon).


  Kuroki - 5 Feb 81

  Route = South Ridge, same as Autumn 1980 Japanese expedition
  BC on Barun Glacier at 5000m
  C1 - 5300m
  C2 - 5800m
  C3 - 6200m
  C4 - 6500m
  C5 - 6800m (not sure to need C5)
  2 members now in KTM, 2 arrive 15 Feb.
  3 members arrive 23 Feb
  1 end April - BC trek.
  Others in July-August (research group)
  Climbing group leave KTM 26 Feb and leave Dharan 1 March
  Arrive BC about 1 April
  Summit middle May
  1 month trek back to KTM via Khumbu for some.
  2 or 3 return to KTM more quickly via air from Tumlingtar.
  5 oxygen for medical only
  5 Sherpas above BC


expid: EVER81102
peakid: EVER
year: 1981
route1: Lho La-W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Shinichi Nakajima
sponsor: Meiji University Everest Expedition 1981
approach: Lamosangu->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1981-03-25
smtdate: 1981-05-20
termdate: 1981-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 8750m due to fatigue and lack of oxygen
campsites:
  BC(25/03,5330m),C1(11/04,6025m),C2(21/04,6700m),C3(25/04,7200m),C4(05/05,7500m),C5(15/05,8100m),xxx(20/05,8750m)

routememo:
  Hasegawa & Nakajima - 1 June 81

  Very difficult to Lho Lha, up steep rock face, so took time to reach C1 site - tents only at C1 (did not use snowhole). Above C1 went on route on ridge to C2 which also close to ridge at 6700m - not off on to North Face like Yugoslavs.

  C3 also very near ridge at 7200m near top of shoulder; short, easy way from C2 to C3.
  C1 to C2 10 days: 4 days to make route, then weather not so good.

  C3 to C4 easy snow ridge but very long distance; 4 days to make route and after that had to carry many oxygen bottles which took long time; same route at Yugoslavs.

  C4 almost same as Yugoslav C4 and US C4 West on ridge.

  Route to C5 found good route on ridge and Japanese C5 on ridge; good rock, not very difficult and found small platform at 8100m as good place for C5. Just above C5 was yellow rock tower and just above that met Yugoslav route again.

  17 May - Matsuda and Nakanishi went up from C5 but very cold and wind; waited for sunshine 3 hours; Nakanishi started freezing right toes and had to to return to C5; reached 8250m and fixed rope to there. Nakanishi to BC and Matsuda to C4.

  18 May - Tanaka and Pemba Lama reached same place, Pemba Lama beginning frostbite and had to go down. 18 May Hasegawa and Mitani to try but Hasegawa not so good condition, so Matsuda and Mitani went to 8350m and fixed 5-6 ropes; crossed yellow band and returned to C5.

  19 May - Matsuda and Mitani tried for summit. Matsuda's oxygen regulator not good and lost almost all oxygen in few hours. When end of fixed rope, his oxygen almost empty so fixed 4 ropes and went back.

  20 May - Tanaka and Taguchi crossed yellow band and snow ridge above, reached last steep cliff at 8500m. Tanaka tried climb cliff and finally succeeded after 3 hours. At 1:00 pm, reached easy snowfield and went on up, but Taguchi was tired so he took more than 1 hour to climb 1 pitch. When reached 8750m leader decided they should return as it was 3:30 pm. Taguchi's was freshman and not experienced; cannot say for him to stay out that night. 

  Had good fight against West Ridge; many young men got experience. From C4 up all use oxygen including Sherpas. 13 members reached 8000m. No accidents, etc.

  Ministry camps not correct.


  Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 24 May 81

  Everest failed. 3 groups tried from last camp on 16, 17 and 18 May, but strong winds unable to reach top; how high reached not known.

  20 May Junichi Tanaka and Shin Toguchi went from C5 at 3:30 am and reached 8750m at 3:30 pm. Oxygen finished and shortage of time, could not go higher and returned C5 in evening. Health of all good. Have decided to abandon climb and leave 25 May.


  Katano - 21 Feb 81

  Katano climbed McKinley 1960 (6191m).

  Wants now to go ABC on this expedition if possible; will go to BC on foot with expedition began mountain climbing at 11 years of age.

  Retired 6 years ago and now my life work is "cultivating high places" - sheep breeding.

  Wife, 1 son, 1 daughter and 4 grandchildren; residence in Japanese Alps.

  Was guide to [Theodore] Somervell in Japanese Alps when he visited Japan. 


  Hasegawa & Nakajima - 21 Feb 81

  1st expedition from Japanese from same club to Everest
  1975 Chimen Himal, Nakajima
  Route = West Ridge from Lho la
  Five camps above BC:
  (ABC) C1 at start of Lho la
  C2 about 6700m on north side of West Shoulder
  C3 about 7300m on top of Shoulder
  C4  "    7500m on Ridge
  C5  "    8200-8300m or if possible even higher
  Will not go over to Hornbein Couloir
  Use oxygen from C4 for climbing
  "Orthodox climbing"
  9000m fixed rope will be needed to keep route on Ridge
  2 sirdars and 21 Sherpas above BC
    Annu, Churen Himal sirdar, 1975
    Pemba Lama 
   5 members already here 
  12 members arrive KTM today
   3 members arrive KTM on 4 March
  20 climbing members
  No journalists or film team

  24 Feb leave KTM
  26 Feb leave Lamosangu
  2 weeks to arrive Namche
  8 days acclimatization climbing from Pheriche
  25-26 March arrive BC
  5-10 May arrive summit
  20 May finish expedition


expid: EVER96306
peakid: EVER
year: 1996
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Bernard Muller
sponsor: Stages and Expeditions French Everest Expedition
countries: Belgium, Switzerland
bcdate: 1996-08-30
smtdate: 1996-10-03
termdate: 1996-10-12
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to deep snow and wind
campsites: BC(30/08,5400m),C1(06/09,6000m),C2(08/09,6500m),C3(20/09,7250m),xxx(03/10,7900m)
accidents: 2 avalanches (1 fatal)
agency: Thamserku Trekking/Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face.
  High point at South Col.

  21 Sept Bouchon going up from C3 for acclimatization and was with load-carrying Sherpas headed for Col; avalanche (cornice or slab) from top, not big but lot of ice in it. 3 of 4 Sherpas just below yellow band hit by pieces of ice but not hurt while Lobsang Jangbu, Dawa, Konishi and Bouchon below them and to right hit badly when avalanche hit yellow band and changed direction; avalanche apparently took out fixed rope; they were attacked too. Climb continued after taking Bouchon's body and talk at length with Sherpas whether they would continue (they did after consulting Lamas). 

  Avalanche off night of 4-5 Oct West Shoulder to BC. 3 Oct Norbu with 2 German Sherpas making route to Col and Korean Sherpas after them carrying oxygen. 4 Oct heavy snowfall and on 5th Sherpas in Icefall top also hit by small snow avalanche which covered 4 Sherpas but other Sherpas dug them out quickly. Now too much snow on the mountain and it started to be windy, so decided to stop.

  Hubert climbed, ate and slept with French members; not at all independent of them as he had hoped to be.

  2 Belgian non-members (trekkers) illegally went into Icefall.


  Hubert - 29 Aug 96

  Wanting to reach the three poles: reached North Pole in May 94 with Geothghebuer and will go to South Pole with crossing of Antarctica without resupplies or presupplies in '97 in 4000 km trip in 120 days - first unaided crossing even (with Goethghebuer).

  First to 2 small Khumbu peaks. From BC to C2 and spend 2 days there - to South Col from C2 in 6-7 hours (3-10 pm) and down to BC and wait few days for better weather. On summit push, leave BC 4-5 pm, arrive C2 4 hours later; sleep in C2 and next afternoon 3 pm, reach C3 5-6 pm, Col after 3-4 hours, then leave C4 11:00-11:30 pm for top. Man Ram Tamang may be able to keep up this pace but Goethghebuer probably not - not trying for speed record.

  Hubert - Post-climb

  Will come to Everest again maybe in spring 1999. "Very disappointed" not possible to go to top but heavy snowfall, later strong winds and need to help with rescues of German Nuptse and then 3 Everest victims prevented his going high.


expid: GAN481101
peakid: GAN4
year: 1981
route1: S Face-SE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Brian Agnew
sponsor: Australian Army Alpine Expedition to Ganesh IV
bcdate: 1981-04-08
smtdate: 1981-04-15
termdate: 1981-04-28
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to fatal avalanche
campsites: BC(08/04,4000m),C1(12/04,4950m),C2(15/04,5800m),xxx(15/04,5800m)
accidents: Simpson frostnipped toes of both feet
routememo:
  Agnew Press conference - 7 May 81

  Ministry camps information correct.

  Route = South Face to SE Ridge, exactly same as Japanese whose markers and equipment they found.

  8 members arrived KTM 6 May; Fritz left early.

  Avalanche = wet snow and chunks of ice. All buried in avalanche; Maila bruised, 3 buried couple minutes and got themselves out.

  Simpson frostnipped toes of both feet, Truscott none.

  C2 at top of an icefall, with small ice cliff behind it.

  4 days heavy snow after C2 established and forced down to C1 and then to BC. On 2nd April went back up and re-established C1 and C2 re-established 22 April.

  Arrive 22 -  4 in C2 (Simpson, Sloane, Truscott and Maila Pemba)
               6 in C1 (Agnew, Zaharias, Cashman, Pitham, Phillpot and Temba)
  In BC = Dr.

  On 23rd weather poor and members tired in C2 only "went for walk around the corner" = recce at about 20,500-21,000 ft.

  Route to C3 (around corner east around ice cliff behind camp).

  3 went 400m distance but no gain of altitude and returned to C2 by 9:00 am. Sloane tired, stayed in camp. Truscott dug snow cave to expand space in camp and as result was in full climbing clothing. After his return to tents heard great crack roar. Those in C1 saw or heard avalanche hit ice cliff behind C3 and planed over. At C1 we thought C2 had had it and it could hit us. Agnew grabbed his boots and others jumped behind seracs. C1 got no snow from avalanche but did get blast. In C2 Truscott called to others get out of tents which they did dressed scantily in hot tents. Got 2 paces away from tents when hit by wet snow and chunks of ice couple feet across. All buried by snow. Truscott closest to ice cliff and not swept by avalanche as other 2 survivors were. Other two 30 feet to edge of ledge. C2 debris scattered about and assured Sloane swept away and over ledge/cliff. Tents shredded and poles bent. 3 survivors probed with broken tent poles for Sloane. Simpson had only booties on but various bits of clothing and biv bag recovered, then they moved into small crevasse and found Maila injured and in deep shock and sent down because otherwise would not have survived night. In C1 could hear Simpson calling C1 on walkie-talkie and thus know someone survived but could not understand the conversation. Maila seen at 12:45 pm descending and sent 2 (1 Sherpa and Cashman) to help him down. Had only broken tent pole, no crampons or axe. Reached C1 at about 2:00 pm and reported situation that 2 members needed boots but not that Sloane was missing.

  Cashman and Temba went up with boots, reached only half way as wind came up and snowfall and returned to C1. Simpson and Truscott had found shovel and other items to protect them. Next day Agnew and Zaharias left at 2:00 am and went up in fair conditions and brought survivors down to C1 on 24th. Had ice axes and crampons of their own so Agnew and Zaharias made steps all way down 2 survivors went to BC then. Agnew decided to abandon because loss of equipment and more especially poor weather. Cleared C1 and returned.
   
  Reaction to accident:

  We were all very shocked, a tragic loss but were all mountaineers. Route to C4 straightforward walk and normal day's climb to summit, but this spring weather conditions might have defeated expedition. Had before accident contemplated abandoning attempt but decided to go back up. All members agreed.

  Agnew and others leave KTM 18 April.


  Schaumburg - 24 April 81

  Expedition has changed route from ridge originally intended to climb to Japanese route = South Face to SE Ridge not particularly dangerous route. Should reach summit about 28 April.

  C1 established 12 Apr at 16,250 feet
  C2      "      15 Apr at 19,000 feet
  C3 should be made today at 20,000 feet

  Have had lousy weather snow every day; only few hours each day when could do anything and had one period 4 days could do but sweep snow off tents.

  All members are well.

  Schaumburg leaves KTM 26 April to return to Australia; has been away so long.


  Schaumburg - 8 March 81

  Just returned from Ganesh IV recce. Took 8 days to reach excellent BC site, only 4 days back to KTM. Mountain looks easier than he thought. South Face to right to ridge will be good route.

  Other members arrive KTM 20 March
  Leave KTM 23 and leave Trisuli 24 March
  12 days for approach march with 120-150 porters
  Australian Army Alpine Expedition to Ganesh IV


  Schaumburg - 21 Feb 81

  Application made for Ganesh IV and Schaumburg leaves on 24 Feb for recce; returns KTM in 2 weeks; will examine South Face and SE Ridge.

  9 army men arrive KTM
  2 Sherpas above BC, same as those with Schaumburg on recce
  Leader is Captain Brian Agnew
  Dr. not above BC


expid: CHOY81101
peakid: CHOY
year: 1981
route1: SE Face (to 5200m)
route2: S Ridge (to 7120m)
nation: Japan
leaders: Takeshi Komatsu
sponsor: Nepal-Japan Joint Expedition to Mt. Cho Oyu
countries: Nepal
approach: Lukla->Gokyo->Lungsampa Glacier
bcdate: 1981-04-11
smtdate: 1981-05-21
othersmts: Climbed Lungsampa (LSAM)
campsites:
  BC(11/04,5150m),C1A(14/04,5200m),C1B(23/04,5600m),C2(27/04,5950m),C3(04/05,6350m),C4(09/05,6450m),C5(17/05,6850m),C6(21/05,7120m),xxx(7120m)

routememo:
  C6 placed on 21 May at 7120m but not occupied; this expedition's highest point.


  Messner - 19 March 82

  Japanese route in Spring 1981 = SE Face
  (mountain has two faces on Nepalese side: SW & SW Faces).


  Ohmri T. Komatsu, et al - 5 June 81

  BC on 11 April on Lungsampa Glacier at 5150m.

  C1 at 5200m on 14 April for east route, at point just south of "L" in black on Schneider map of Lungsampa. 

  Route changed because very dangerous: every day big avalanche of snow and ice; icefall was not so difficult but dangerous.
   
  Route changed to South Ridge; BC same but C1 changed. 
  New C1 - 23 April at 5600m on South Ridge
  C2 - 27 Apr - 5950m
  C3 -  4 May - 6350m
  C4 -  9 May - 6450m
  C5 - 17 May - 6850m
  C6 - 21 May - 7120m (but not slept in at all)

  New C1 to C4 of point 6500m and atmost at this point
  Max altitude 7120m = C6 just above "U" west point 7110m

  22 May tried to go up to C6, but bad weather prevented reaching it: every day it snowed. No one very reached C6 again. After 4 days waiting to be able to go up, decided to stop climb. C6 is still there.

  No accidents or frostbite.

  Doubt Austria-Germany scaled South Face because its very difficult and dangerous from daily avalanche. Same possibility via East Face especially in post-monsoon. No sign of previous climbers on South Face, a route east of Japanese route.

  South Ridge is possible if had many days good weather. Need at least C7 and maybe C8, very long route. Same difficult below 6500m and above 7200m (above 7200m difficult rock ridge).


  Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 24 May 81

  C5 22 May 7200m, weather bad on 23rd, no plans of summit.


  Otsu - 6 May 81

  Cho Oyu expedition changed route because of too many avalanches; not so difficult.


  Shailendra Sharma -  4 May 81

  Cho Oyu route changed: reason not known why changed; thinks because of difficulty. No camp information at all.


  Kamatsu, Yoshio & Ohmori - 23 Feb 81

  Route = East Face = new route
  Approach via Gokyo Pokhari and Lungsampa Glacier.
  BC at about "p" of L. Glacier on Schneider Khumbu map at 5250m
  5 camps above BC (see leaflet for altitudes).
  East Face is snow face.
  Icefall above BC to C2 (C2 = ABC above icefall).

  Most difficult area is C3 to C4 because of hanging glacier; "little danger" from hanging says deputy leader.

  Half members use no oxygen and others will use it because women and old who use it sleeping in C5 and to summit.

  29 Japanese members.
  12 Nepalese members including 3 Sherpas.
  No Sherpas above BC who are not members.
  26 Japanese now in KTM and 3 arrive today.
  Leave KTM 27 or 28 Feb by air to Lukla. 
  Arrive BC 20 March after acclimatization in route.
  Summit early May: 1-10 May

  So many members because want give training for other peaks including Lhotse and Everest in 3-4 years.


  Komatsu x 2 - 14 April 81

  3 Japanese and 3 Nepalese members are now in KTM; go to Lukla tomorrow and take 15 days to reach BC (acclimatizing en route).

  Others in Gokyo; made BC on 11 April.
  Summit after 35-40 days.
  Total 11 Nepalese members.


  Yogendra Thapa - 14 April 81

  Total 12 Nepalese members

  Cho Oyu 
  11 Nepalese members:
  Yogendra Thapa, joint Leader
  Mingma Tenzing
  Kamal Bhandari
  Gupta Bahadur Rana
  + new members not yet decided by the above.
  11 total


expid: KANG81101
peakid: KANG
year: 1981
route1: SW Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Kinichi Yamamori
sponsor: Himalayan Association of Japan Kangchenjunga Expedition 1981
ascent1: 8th
bcdate: 1981-03-16
smtdate: 1981-05-09
smttime: 1151
othersmts: Climbed Yalung Kang (YALU-811-02)
campsites:
  BC(16/03,5500m),C1(22/03,6150m),C2(29/03,6450m),C3.ABC(14/04,7300m),C4M(22/04,7850m),C5M(08/05,8250m),Smt(09/05)

routememo:
  Kikuchi, et al - 29 May 81

  Traverse from main summit to Yalung Kang planned to be by Yamada and Fujikura and other 4 Kangchenjunga summiters were support team (Hoseka, Kataoka, Suzuki and Nima Temba).

  Ogata and Yashima to traverse from Yalung Kang to Kangchenjunga and other 3 in support (Yajihara, Tobita and Tsunoda). Idea was double traverse crossing on ridge between 2 peaks.

  Abandoned traverse idea because Fujikura took so long from final camp to summit: not 3 hours from 8300m final camp to Kangchenjunga and 8 hours in deep snow to Yalung Kang and 2 Kangchenjunga summiters looked at final ridge to Yalung Kang, very difficult and maybe 2 days with a biv between peaks. So each team including supporters went to top and returned they had gone to respective summits.

  All returned to KTM yesterday and all well except some frostbitten toes that will heal.

  BC establihed by advance team; full expedition in BC 31 March.
  BC - 16 March - 5500m
  C1 - 22 March - 6150m
  C2 - 29 March - 6450m 
  C3 - 31 March - 7300m

  ABC reached occupied in 14 April for complete acclimatization at 4200m rest camp.

  C4W - 20 April - 7850m (Yalung Kang)
  C4M - 23 April - 7850m (Main)
  C5W - 8 May    - 8250m (Yalung Kang)
  C5M - 8 May    - 8300m (Main)

  Summits on 9 May: both teams descended that day to C3.

  On Yalung Kang no trace of Mexican lost near top. Both teams left survey poles atop both peaks; each pole 2m high red and white alternately with support wires for Kangchenjunga pole.

  Big avalanche from 7000m to glacier 2 km wide; no one hurt, but route wiped out and few loads lost. Small avalanche came near C2 and 2 Sherpas injured.

  All summiters used oxygen from their C5's. 
  No accidents.

  Yalung Kang summiters think traverse to main peak more difficult then vice versa; also think Japanese 1973 expedition not successful. 


  Ogata & Yogihara (Yamamori) - 20 Feb 81

  If South and Central summits permitted, will not go to Yalung Kang. One party to South Summit and traverse Central Summit to Main.

  ABC (C3) - 7100m (Great Shelf)
  S C4 - 7600m
  S C5 - 8300m below South Summit
  Camp between Central and Main summit = Main C5 - 8350m

  Other support party direct to Main Summit via Main C5 8350m as support for first party. Both parties descend from Main Summit direct to Great Shelf.

  1st day support party to Main Summit and down to their C4 at 7800m. Next day South Summit party to S Summit from their C5 to Central Summit to support C5. 3rd day S Summit party to Main Summit and down to support C4. 4th day both parties to C2.

  3 members now in KTM 
  3 members now in Biratnagar
  7 members left Dharan on 16 Feb for BC
  1 (Dr.) arrives KTM 20 Feb
  4 KTM-ites leave KTM 24 Feb


  Kikuchi - 5 Feb 81

  Kangchenjunga Main
  BC - 5500m
  C1 - 6100m
  C2 - 6300m
  C3 - 7100m
  C4 - 7800m
  C5 - 8300m
  Route and camps to great shelf same for both summits

  Yalung Kang
  C4 = 7800m
  C5 = 8350m

  From Yalung down towards main peak very steep knife ridge, so traverse may not be possible. Might go up main peak via couloir and down British route.
     

  Kikuchi - 27 Jan 81

  9 climbers to Yalung Kang via Great Shelf. Summiters then traverse ridge to Kangchenjunga Main peak, same route as 1975 Germans.

  To main peak - 1) to make route for traverse descent and
                 2) to reach summit from somewhere - British route

  Traverse from Yalung Kang to main Kangchenjunga will biv at Col on way to Kangchenjunga.

  15 HA Sherpas including 2 sirdars:

  Pemba Nurbu (Namche, 31, Polish winter sirdar, Everest summiter with Koreans)
  Pemba Tshering (Thami, 36, spring 1980 Kangch Japanese North Face w/o oxygen)

  Oxygen for some climbers if want it. 50 bottles with expedition and all will try not to use, some definitely will not use it.

  BC 5500m at end March, summits mid to end May
  4 camps above BC to Yalung Kang. C4 8350m, high because of traverse
  4 camps for main peak, C4 8300m
  60 porters
  18 climbers, 1 doctor and 1 leader = 20 members


  Kaoru Kikuchi - 5 June 78

  Himalayan Association of Japan plan send 17 members "recce" to climb Kangchenjunga's South Summit in spring 1981 and another 17-member team to go to S Summit and traverse via Central Summit (8478m), a virgin peak, to Main Summit, a distance of 2 km.

  BC on Yalung Glacier, route via Great Shelf.

  Yalung Kang: Yagihara, Ogata, Tobita, Yashima and Tsunoda


expid: EVER80402
peakid: EVER
year: 1980
route1: Lho La-W Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Alan Rouse
sponsor: British Winter Everest Expedition
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1980-12-06
smtdate: 1981-01-17
termdate: 1981-01-30
campsites: BC(06/12,5500m),C1(15/12,6100m),C2(02/01,6860m),C3(15/01,7160m),xxx(17/01,7300m)
routememo:
  Joe Tasker - 11 Feb 81

  Only two climbers, Tasker and Ad Burgess, who were fit and able to climb in the end. Others were sick with stomach problems, coughs, etc. Joe and Ad would have carried on if there had been anyone to back them up.

  Winter weather is whole different scene in Hamalayas climbing, like alpine-style 20 years ago. Joe wants to come again in winter.


  Rouse - 10 Feb 81

  C1 Lho La, 20,000 feet, West end in ice cave
  C2 North Face, 22,500 ft, tents destroyed early in expedition by winds and now 
     reestablished. 
  C3 just below 23,500 feet top of shoulder in crevasse.

  Went above C3 but never good enough weather to reach C4 site; reached 24,000 feet, but always had wind. Ad Burgess and Joe Tasker once reached there in January.

  Rouse lost 26 lbs (more than any others), was ill a month with stomach trouble. Rouse arrived KTM today, others came tomorrow.

  Avalanche weather for winter: "need good luck to climb it." Would have needed two more camps to get to top and then several days of good weather (no wind); perhaps two weeks.

  30 lbs rucksacks blown onto side of Lho La by wind last week. Gave up attempt really about 1st Feb without formal decision. In Dec good to climb up to 23,000 feet but after that winter waste of time. Poles must have lucky with wind and were used to winter. No accidents or frostbite.


  John Porter - 3 Feb 81

  Left BC Fri 30 Jan and arrived KTM today, Paul Nunn comes tomorrow - both from Lukla.

  Winds and illness were 2 worse problems. 4 fit people arriving at BC and only 2 by 30: Joe Tasker and Ad Burgess. Rouse very ill arriving BC and never recovered from stomach and cough.

  Wind: had to crawl across Lho La probably following Yugoslav route; their ropes found here and there; many also went over to Hornbein Couloir. If expedition doesn't get much further this week, will probably quit.

  C1 - 15 Dec 20,000 feet
  C2 - 28 Dec 22,000 feet
  C3 - about 15 Jan 23,500 feet
  C4 - to be at 24,000 
  C4 -          26,000
  Biv above C5


  Alan Rouse - 7 Nov 80

  Climbing without oxygen and light weight means have to get acclimatized and fit. 6 members including, 3 camera crew, leave KTM 13 Nov walking in. 4 more arrive 19th Nov and fly to Lukla and meet in Namche/Khumjung and together go to BC directly and then start climb.

  From BC to Lho La with camp at one end or other depending on seracs; other camp at very top of shoulder. Expect to rope route on shoulder but not above shoulder. Bivs between camp and top.

  No Sherpas above BC. Want to climb without oxygen but if get very high and could climb it only with oxygen would use it if have it. Don't expect to use it. Oxygen its really for protecting against cold. We have face masks to warm breath before it comes in.
   
  Aim to get acclimatized and fit and make rush to top; if failed twice would probably take one oxygen bottle each. Re Hornbein Couloir: will see what conditions are on mountain; might go up it.

  13 Nov 81

  Bought 16 oxygen bottles and 4 sets from Dhaulagiri expedition.


  Rouse - 10 Nov 80

  Had some 2nd thoughts once in Nepal extreme cold and wind continued; without oxygen can't survive, require oxygen to make yourself survive; have new one piece suits. No oxygen left from brain and heart requirements so body stops body from shivering.

  Everest winter 1980-1
  Alan Rouse
  Joe Tasker
  Brian Hall
  John Porter
  Paul Nunn
  Alan Burgess
  Adrian Burgess
  Dr. Peter Thexton

  West Ridge via Lho La
  0 Sherpas above BC
  5 oxygen bottles


expid: ANN180401
peakid: ANN1
year: 1980
route1: N Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Naoe Sakashita
bcdate: 1981-01-27
smtdate: 1981-02-13
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(27/01,4250m),C1(29/01,5050m),C2(04/02,5600m),C3(12/02,6300m),xxx(13/02,6700m)
routememo:
  Sakashita - 28 Feb 81

  Mingma Tsering dropped out 30 minutes before departure, Pasang Norbu of Namche took his place (was Baruntse summiter autumn 1980) but left expedition 9 Feb from C2.

  Ang Phurba was with Sakashita to C2 and carried load to C3 but did not stay in C3 because said gets headache above 6000m.

  Because of weather had more camps than planned above C1; many more crevasses above C1 than in autumn; crevasse fell into on recce was hidden through: now 5m wide. 30 crevasses from C1 to C2 and half hidden: Sherpas fell into them 3 times but roped to Sakashita and Ok.

  Stayed on French route because Dutch Rib almost bare rock.

  Wind very strong but not much snow so not so many avalanches as other season; were avalanches but didn't hit expedition. 200-300m below C3 Ang Phurba left same loads; after C3 must attack alpine-style because no Sherpa help and no time 13-14-15 attack days.

  13 Feb didn't carry up load high enough for C4 to 7200m, but wind prevented this; reached 6700m.

  14 Feb am also very strong wind like under helicopter and very big sound then climbed 100m above C3 then decided to return to BC since no possibility to reach summit in 2 days and Ang Phurba complaining of toothache. Phurba claimed avalanche of ice blocks almost hit him 400m below C3 after dumping load 200-300m below C3.

  No accidents to anyone except Ang Phurba broke tooth when hit his face on ice face.

  On 12th Feb Sakashita tried recce above C3 and returned to C3 that night; small ice pieces size of first and same stones hit Sakashita on head which he covered with spare socks, etc.

  13 Feb carried some load above C3 to establish C4 but very strong wind and returned to C3. C3 to left of French C3 (see diagram Herzog p.151) at 21,650 feet.

  Put in total 350m fixed rope on entire route; not so cold as expected; wind really strong but not so strong as expected. 

  No trouble from injured thumb.

  I expected difficulty from winter weather including avalanche danger, but my power not so strong to camp 8000m mountain; had enough supplies, time shortage or problem.

  Sakashita will go with Konishi Everest South Face 1983 autumn.

  5-6 members, now will do recce
  1982 autumn Makalu if possible, 3-4 men

  Now necessary for me to do heavy training in Japan; will be possible for me to solo on 8000m peak in spring or autumn season after training.

  No decision which mountain might try to solo, maybe Annapurna which is easy mountain.


  Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 23 Feb 81

  Sakashita abandoned Annapurna at 6700m on 14 Feb bad weather; has returned to BC.


  Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 19 Feb 81

  Sakashita pitched C3 12 Feb 6300m; he started up alone from there the same day.


  Sakashita - 7 Jan 81

  Mingma Tsering (26, from Pangboche) went to top camp with Mexican Yalung Kang expedition. 

  Ang Phurba also with 1980 Italian expedition. 
  2 times on Churen Himal
  2 times on Dhaulagiri I

  Nuru Wangchu = cook

  Leave KTM 9 June. 20 days to BC because much recent snow in pass; only 15 days for acclimatization and climb so chances for summit not good. Also finger not perfect but maybe recovers in 2 weeks.


  Sakashita - 14 Nov 80

  Q. How are you?
  A. Not so good; have to have operation on injured thumb which is fractured into 3 pieces; go to Japan tomorrow; hope to get permission to do climb in spring.


  Sakashita - 3 Nov 80

  Have only 300m of rope for fixed rope so must use French route. Will need 150-200m between BC and C1 so Sherpas can carry up loads. After C1 supplied, will take out this rope and use again higher on mountain. C1 will be use C2, 1300m above BC at 4200m. Above C1 will not go to Dutch rib. I think avalanche danger is same all over mountain and I hope winter season not so much snow.

  Will stay on mountain 20-25 days only so less exposure to avalanches. Will take 25 day's food supply.

  "8000m peak is very, very big."

  Will make C2 at 6500m which is about 200m above usual C3. C3 at 7500m; have tents for 3 camps with final tent small 1-2 man tent.

  2 Sherpas on climb. They go maybe to C2 but not above probably unless many crevasses above C2 to C3 will have 1 Sherpa on this section: "I don't want to die." "If my condition not so good I must need Sherpas help" to carry loads to C3. My attempt is not solo.

  Both Sherpas want to go to summit so after any attempt they will try to go to summit themselves. Soes not expect Sherpas to go with him to top "but everything depends on my condition."

  Arrived KTM 6th Nov evening from recce above C2 when fell in crevasse and hurt right thumb; will go to hospital on 10th for examination of thumb.

  On Kangchenjunga I could work hard at 8000m so I have confidence I can get to 8000m summit without oxygen, but Everest 8848m much higher and West Ridge is more exposed to wind than South Col route.

  My climb is North Face and it also has strong wind, but South Face of Annapurna too difficult technically.

  Leave KTM 13-14 Nov; establish BC 27-28 Nov after trouble with snow at Choya Pass with 20 porters from Pokhara. Will return to KTM end Dec.

  "I think 40% chance of success, 40% or 50%. I have not experience in winter season in Nepal on such high mountain and it's a first time to go to big mountain not with partner. Sherpa is not climber, they are porters and they don't speak English or Japanese very much so maybe sometimes I am alone in my mentality, lonely. Not such much information of winter, in Nepal how much wind, how much coldness, how much snow, so possibility 40% if I have enough strength to climb mountain; mountain will regale such poor experience in winter; technically, not difficult, I think its an easy mountain."

  Fell 30m inside crevasse onto small ledge in it; at first was covered with much ice; 27 Oct at 2:30 pm; was alone 150m above C2; took 30 mins to come out.


  Sakashita - 13 Oct 80

  Goes to do recce of Annapurna; leaves KTM tomorrow with 1 Sherpa, goes to BC and perhaps a little above BC for acclimatization. Returns KTM 10 Nov.

  Back to BC for start of climb 1 Dec; has supplies for 20 day's climb; will have 2 Sherpas with him to 6500m so not solo. Tourism Ministry would not permit solo attempt "and I need support." Will probably make 2, maybe 3 camps, fixed rope with him.

  In "normal" season would not need fixed camps but in winter does; also in winter could not go on for more than 20 days.

  Financed entirely by himself with loans from friends and book translation income; no newspaper backing, no reporters with him as nuisance; his last job was exporting quartz crystals to Switzerland and US; now unemployed. From Nepal may go to US to climb in California with Yvonne Chouinard (whose Climbing Ice he translated) and Rick Ridgeway.

  Is single, has no commitments, is his own boss: likes this kind of climbing.


expid: BARU80401
peakid: BARU
year: 1980
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kazuo Hayashi
sponsor: Academic Alpine Club of Hokkaido Himalaya Expedition
ascent1: 9th
approach: Tumlingtar->Shipton La->Barun Glacier
bcdate: 1980-11-17
smtdate: 1980-12-15
smttime: 1330
termdate: 1980-12-29
campsites: BC(17/11,4980m),C1(01/12,5130m),C2(03/12,5720m),C3(05/12,6140m),C4(13/12,6700m),Smt(15/12)
routememo:
  Ikegami - 12 Jan 81

  2nd summit party on 23 Dec reached 7000m but turned back by snowfall and very strong wind: Azuma, Matsumoto, H. Nakamura, T. Nakamura, Suzaki, Hanai and Ishmura.

  Route = SE Ridge, same as Japanese 1980 autumn and 1954, so 3rd successful team via this ridge.

  In other season not so difficult except 100m knife ridge about 7000m same difficult; other easy but C3 and C4 hit by very strong wind from west but tent not destroyed.

  General leader and his Dr. reached 1 day below BC. Never at BC, reached 1 day below 23 Dec when heavy snowfall occurred of 20 cm at BC.

  2nd attempt made from C4 and reached 7000m and returned to C4. 24th hoped to go up again but also snowing on 24th and so to C4 on 24th instead.

  No accidents, frostbite illness.

  4 members and Hayashi and Sato now in KTM and others arrive 13 Jan if flight operates.

  On top much snow and lower temperature so don't feel cold but wind may strong in Nepal. Also sunlight hours same in Japan and Nepal but mentally reluctant go outside tent in Nepal. Wind same Japan cyclones. 2/3 of all days was strong wind (maximum 25m/sec at C3 90 km/hr).

  6000m and 7000m not so difficult 4 Dec between Jan temperature lower; wind is lower than on 8000m peaks. Dec better than pre- and post-monsoon, but 8000m very difficult. Sept very much snowfall and so dangerous for avalanche. Saw avalanches from icefall of Makalu, not on Baruntse.

  Used oxygen sleeping at C4 by 2 persons nights before summit bids (1 now each bid - different men).

  Noshaq climbed in winter by Poles 1972 or 1973; only other ascent of 7000m peak in Dec-Jan. 

  15 Dec weather fine and wind not so bad except on summit maybe 20 cm/sec
  2 members leave Nepal after 10 days, others maybe trekking.


  Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 8 Jan 81

  15 Dec 4 Japanese and 1 Sherpa summited
  23 Dec were to make another attempt and did so, but unsuccessful because 
     strong wind and snow reached 7000m
  24 Dec abandoned 
  29 Dec left BC
  All well


  Shailendra Sharma - 23 Dec 80
    
  C2 3 Dec - 5720m
  C1 1 Dec - 5130m
  C3 5 Dec - 6140m
  C4 last camp 13 Dec to be established.
  Letter from expedition leader dated 9 Dec.
  Maximum temperature C3 on 8 Dec -4 degrees centrigrade.
  Minimum  -13 degree centrigrade.
  Very windy
  All well


  Hayashi - 4 Dec 80

  Climbing party reached BC 17 Nov and reported very cold and some members not sick.

  Hayashi and Dr. Sato will leave tomorrow to Tumlingtar and trek; hope to reach BC and even C1. Hayashi climbed in Canada Rockies 5 years ago but not to such altitude.


  Ishimura - 13 Oct 80

  On top on 1st Jan.
  12 members, 3 now in KTM; others in 2 weeks and 2 old members arrive 5 Nov and go to BC only; 10 climbing members.

  Divide 10 climbers in 2 parties: 1 by road to Dharan with Sherpas and baggage leave KTM 23 Oct. Others leave 31 Oct by air to Tumlingtar. Next 1st party there on 31 Oct and leave for BC 1 Nov.
  2 weeks to BC.

  Route = South Ridge, but via different early part of route (see map).

  BC at 5000m on Barun Glacier
  C1 5300m
  C2 6000m
  C3 6300m
  C4 6700m on ridge
  6 H-A Sherpas plus sirdar Wangal (7 total)
  Oxygen for sleeping and medical
  Will do same acclimatization at Shipton Pass (4000m) route to BC.
  1 Dec start climbing.
  1 Jan summit.


expid: MAKA80401
peakid: MAKA
year: 1980
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Renato Casarotto
sponsor: International Makalu Expedition
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 1980-12-10
smtdate: 1981-01-15
termdate: 1981-01-23
termnote: Abandoned at 7350m due to bad weather (cold, wind, snow)
othersmts: Climbed Shershon Northwest (SHNW-804-01)
campsites: BC(10/12,4950m),C1(13/12,5880m),C2(21/12,6320m),C3(30/12,6800m),xxx(15/01,7350m)
routememo:
  Nottaris & Senaldi - 2 Feb 81

  Now in KTM (arrived yesterday): Nottaris, Dr. Senaldi, Zimmermann
  Reached 15 Jan to 7220m, little below C4 site. 7350m by Nottaris alone
  Not higher: bad weather, very cold, snow, wind -48 degrees at 7200m.

  Leader had altitude problem, so only 3 climbers; leader in BC only. Impossible for parties to bring supplies above BC because deep snow.

  Ministry of Tourism BC to C3 correct.

  Left BC 23 Jan. Now trip helicopter to BC see if anyone there and found left at 6700m but sticks, but no tracks above that. No fixed rope and no pitons, nothing above that. Italians put 4000m fixed rope. Wind so strong on ridge: impossible to move without fixed rope.
   
  Route exactly same as British SE Ridge 1980.

  All 7 Italians tents broken by very strong wind, one completely destroyed. Wind and snow worse than expected. Poles said not so much snow. Wind 200 km often and change direction from south to north.


  LO's report to Tourism, published 26 Jan 81

  C2 21 Dec 6320m
  C3 30 Dec 6800m by Mario Curnis, Claude Zimmerman, Ang Pasang on SE Ridge.
  Weather: good, wind strong (too much)
  Temperature: -15 degrees to 8 degrees Centrigrade


  Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 5 Jan 81

  C1 5880m 13 Dec
  -15 degrees C = minimum temperature
  +12 degrees C = maximum temperature
  wind very strong


  Nottaris - 15 Nov 80

  International Expedition Makalu
  Route = SE Ridge , Japanese 1970 & Spring 1976 (Britain 1980)

  In winter very difficult with wind and cold; if not much wind use Britain 1980 route, i.e., ridge all the way. If wind really bad, joins ridge at 6800m from Barun Pokhari via glacier to ridge (along altitude markings on Schneider map of 5600m, 5800m, 6000m, 6200m, etc).

  4 alpinists, 1 Dr and 1 BC mgr. All now in KTM. Go to Dharan or Tumlingtar 22 Nov. 
  BC to be established about 10-11 at 4900m southwest of Barun Pokhari.
  3 camps above BC
  C3 7500m
  C3 -> summit alpine style 

  Wind is big problem, technically not so difficult; difficulties is wind and cold.

  Oxygen use: have 25 bottles, if necessary use it: if impossible because of wind 
    will use it 
  4 Sherpas above BC
  Summit 1-10 Jan; success depends on weather.
  Cassaroto amongst 10 best climbers in world; all very strong.


expid: GAN480401
peakid: GAN4
year: 1980
route1: S Face
nation: USA
leaders: Phillip R. Trimble
sponsor: Joint US-Nepal Expedition to Pabil or Ganesh IV
countries: Nepal
bcdate: 1980-12-30
smtdate: 1981-01-10
termdate: 1981-01-13
campsites: BC(30/12,4000m),C1(02/01,5100m),xxx(10/01,5650m)
routememo:
  Trimble press conference - 21 Jan 81

  Weather did not cooperate. Abandoned expedition 13 Jan due to combination bad weather very cold and high winds and sustained snow fall. 4 reasonably good days when first arrived.

  Helicoptered to BC on 30 Dec at 4000m; couple days to acclimatize then made C1 on 2 Jan (slightly above 1978 C2); too short to acclimatize.

  5 days of heavy snow, -20 degrees to -40 degrees, wind 40-60 mph. Snow quite heavy so difficulty to move higher.

  Got 2 days reasonable weather, back to C1 and tried push route further up. Then 4 days of snow and at end of that food running low and weather not improving and time running out; abandoned after 15 days. In walk out weather still bad.

  Highest point 18,500 feet by Trimble with other 3 slightly higher.

  16,700 feet = C1 on South Face

  From C1 looked at variety routes possible. 1978 route had been swept clean by avalanches which left hard blue ice instead of snow slopes; also icefalls and icewalls to be encountered.

  No accidents, frost bite but wind and cold made him feel physically beaten.

  Lot of avalanches on slopes of Ganesh II but relaxed little on C4 till day left BC 13 Jan two huge avalanches and one swept near C1.

  Followed hostages progress on radio.

  Not sure about Tilicho in spring; Xixabangma in fall definite; no plan to return to Ganesh IV.

  Wind now worse than on Everest in autumn 1976; ice difficulty greater now. 

  Saw no Yeti, but believes Yeti highly probable since descriptions so similar and areas so wild.


  Trimble press conference - 29 Dec 80

  Joint US-Nepal Expedition to Pabil (Ganesh IV)

  Important for ambassador Trimble to see as much of a country as possible so have tried to spend 1/4 of my time outside KTM valley.

  1st attempt by ambassador in Nepal to climb a Nepalese peak and 1st American winter expedition in Himalayas.

  I expect weather greatest obstacle we will face.

  Only 4 on mountain; no one at BC. "Four men against the next" and expect to accomplish it relatively quickly. 

  I expect it will be extremely cold down to -60 degrees F and high winds part of time of 50-60 mph. If constant winds that violently and that cold, will not be possible to climb mountain.

  Will try SW Ridge route which would be new route. From South Face, SW Ridge route straight up from BC and not off to right as Japanese route; but if ridge not possible will repeat Japanese route.

  Food for 21 days; all have to be back in KTM at end of January.

  Helicopter to 3000m tomorrow and then 1-2 days to BC other climbing members; 

  Mingma Tenzing, Annapurna [sirdar].
  (LO) Yogendra Thapa, inspector
  Kamal Bhandari, subinspector

  May return to KTM by helicopter depending on time left after climb; would like to walk out.

  Mountain climbing always dangerous; less dangerous in winter because should be diminished avalanche activity. "One never knows about these things" but in winter with less snowfall.

  BC at 4000m. Expect minimum of 12-14 days of climbing of 21 days. If weather good, no storms no one gets sick should be able to reach summit 12-14 days, so don't have time to sit out a week's storm. 4-5 days to acclimatize in 4000m area then climb. 3 camps above BC, moving each camp up as go, not leaving fixed camps in place as move up mountain. Expect all 4 members to go to top.

  Picked Ganesh IV because waited about 7000m peak with challenge, but feasible in short time and because close to KTM.


  Trimble - 8 Dec 80

  Leave for Ganesh IV on 30 Dec.

  Route = Japanese South face to Ridge or some shorter variation; exact route depends on winter conditions; hopes avalanche danger, which appears to be there in other seasons, will be less in winter.

  Plans alpine ascent: no fixed camps, no up and down, just up. 
  BC = Japan's C1

  Frank Morgan not coming. Only 4 men on mountain: Trimble, 2 Nepalese (Thapa and Bhandari) and 1 Sherpa who also will climb.

  Hope to spend only 10-20 days on mountain; maximum 30 days out of KTM. Chance of success not 100%.

  Winter weather, avalanche possibilities, possible difficult section high up
  No oxygen, even medical


  Sharma, Tourism - 2 Dec 80

  Permit granted to Ambassador Phillip Trimble with
  1)  Yogendra Thapa of Nepal Police
  2)  Kamal Bhandari, Nepal Police
      both of whom climbed Ganesh IV in 1978
  3)  Frank Morgan, attorney (private practice)

  1 Sherpa, Mingma Tenzing as sirdar (was Japanese sirdar in 1978)
  Climbing 3-4 weeks in Dec and Jan
  Route = SE Ridge, same as Japanese 1978


expid: BARU80102
peakid: BARU
year: 1980
route1: N Ridge from W
nation: France
leaders: Julien Graux
ascent1: 4th possible
smtdate: 1980-04-28
campsites: BC(4200m),C1,C2(5600m),xxx(28/04,6900m+)
agency: Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
routememo:
  Buhler - 12 May 80

  Those watching French saw them going up and then down later; almost surely had reached summit. In descent on North Face seemed to fall into crevasse at about 6900m while making a horizontal traverse and then suddenly go down. Apparently had been using Spaniard's final route to summit. Last seen by Spanish at 3:00 pm on 28th.


  Buhler and Lopez - 11 May 80 (Spanish Baruntse)

  On 28 April, 2 French members seen from Spaniard's C1 climbing stronger and then disappeared, possibly into crevasse, in afternoon (3:00 pm) at about 6900m at foot steep NE wall Spaniards had climbed and which leads to North Ridge. Seen by Phu Tashi, kitchen boy, and leader.


  Mukhia of OHA - 9 May 80

  He went in helicopter for French Baruntse expedition today. Took 1 Sherpa from KTM and picked up 2 Sherpas from Pangboche. 3 Sherpas were dropped on glacier above BC and below where members bodies are believed to be (at about 5800m). 

  Sherpas instructed to bring bodies to BC and inform KTM, Yves Austin, French Embassy. Sherpas will be instructed to bury or cremate bodies at BC.


  Yves Austin, French Embassy - 6 May 80

  Went first to BC at 14,000 feet in helicopter, then up to 5700m.
   
  Saw ropes and other traces of where they had been climbing; fell 500-600 feet making route tied together. Were nearly at summit and fell down to 5700m down glacier North Face.

  Last night heavy snowfalls and could see where bodies are in snow had were slightly above; will probably send Sherpas to site where fallen, 5+ hours from BC.

  Film team at BC.

  No attempts on Everest and Lhotse today because very strong wind early. 
  Had reached about 6500m on ridge, fell on left side about 800m.


  Premchausha Shrestha, Tourism - 4 May 80

  Missing members
    1) Julien Graux, born 1946, leader
    2) Phillippe Grezat, born 1956

  Since 26 April where going from C2 to site for C3 in afternoon when suddenly clouds gathered. 27 April not sighted. 29 April 3 Sherpas from BC up they went to C2 and saw nothing except blood on rock and saw white objects; seen below C2.

  Helicopter requested. Not sighted to 2 May at least.


  Robert Rieffel - 4 May 80

  One member of French Baruntse expedition came to KTM; [Robert] Rieffel saw him last Thursday carrying his backpack. Said he'd fallen into crevasse, but roped to another fellow who belayed him; fell only 6-7m into crevasse, 2 or 3 ribs cracked.

  Rieffel doesn't know member's name, but M. Pelle of Delta/Universal Tours of knows [Pelle says it was Van de Velde].

    
  Van de Velde - 9 April 80

  Approach via Chhukung village, last on Imja Glacier to col at 6190m between Cho Polu and Baruntse and then south up North Ridge.

  Route = North Ridge from west.
  Arrived in KTM 5 and 10 days ago; 2 leave 5 April and about 7-8 April
  Fly to Lukla 4-5 days to BC. 
  BC at about 5200m, 1 camp at 6200m on col, 1 camp perhaps at about 7000m
  Very light expedition, no fixed project, not sure exactly of route.
  All in BC mid-April and summit end of April.
  Not too difficult and above col quite easy.
  No oxygen.
  1 Sherpa only, probably above BC, name don't know.
  Expedition has no name
  Probably stay in GHA's Lazimpat store room on return to KTM.


expid: YALU80101
peakid: YALU
year: 1980
route1: SE Face
nation: Mexico
leaders: Jose Manuel Casanova
sponsor: Expedition of the University of Mexico Himalayas 1980
ascent1: 5th
bcdate: 1980-04-01
smtdate: 1980-05-04
smttime: 1700
termdate: 1980-05-13
termnote: Success claimed, but summiter died on descent
campsites: BC(01/04,5300m),C1(12/04,6100m),C2(22/04,6800m),C3(30/04,7300m),C4(02/05,7800m),Smt(04/05)
agency: Sherpa Cooperative Trekking (SCT)
routememo:
  Cardenas, Cortez, Casanova & Delgado press conference - 27 May 80

  Casanova: Univ of Mexico organized 1st Mexican expedition to Nepal Himalayas. We worked 2 years for preparations. Experience of this team started in Canadian Rockies, Peruvian Andes and McKinley.

  Arrived KTM 8 Feb; one month for arrangements in KTM. Left KTM 29 Feb with 1 sirdar and 5 Sherpas from SCT and 25 KTM porters.

  3 March left Dharan. 18 days to Ramsher and just before Yalung Glacier at 4100m. 10 more days to carry loads to BC which established 1 April at same as 1955 expedition location at 5300m and Germany 1980 came there too.

  8 April started climbing mountain with Medina and Saldana ahead with Chowang and Mingma Tsering.

  11 April way to C1 finished with ladders and fixed ropes.
  12 April C1 occupied at 6100m.

  Next section of route to C2. Saldana, Medina and Chowang made route to C2.

  19 April C2 established 6230m first and then moved to 6800m on 22 April route C1 to C2 was long and then down in gully to foot of icefall, then followed icefall to 6800m.

  C2 established 30 April at 7300m at top of icefall. 

  2000m fixed rope and 30 ladders of 2.8m from BC to C3.

  Saldana and Medina were strongest men by 30 April and decided they would be summit team with Chowang with support team of Cardenas, Casanova and Mingma Tsering.

  2 May these 6 men established C4 at 7800m.

  3 May weather very bad, too much wind. Had to stay in C4 or in case of support team descend to C3 which support team did.

  4 May very good weather and summit team made attempt and from C3 view of them very good. Cardenas followed them through telephoto lens on camera. Near 5:00 pm Cardenas saw them on rocks: Saldana, Medina and last Chowang near 8400m, 30 or 40m below summit roped together. All day weather good with some wind but summit cloudy and could not see them.

  Chowang came back. Saw Saldana on top and Medina below summit. Chowang also 40m below summit and asked Medina and Saldana permission to go down as fingers beginning to freeze and last we know of Saldana on summit and Medina 40m below. Know no more by telephoto; try to see 2 Mexicans summiters. Saw Chowang going down from 5:20 to arrive 6:30 at C4.

  Don't know why Medina stayed at 40m below top. Saldana had been pushing him that for Medina only one of those 3 using oxygen, which he started using about 8200m. It was his decision to go up from C4.

  Own first experience in Himalayas we think we have success on the mountain but we lost 2 friends.

  Singh of SCT: Medina tried to join his friend 40m below summit. Chowang saw Medina struggling to go on up.

  Casanova: 2 possibilities what happened: maybe they made bivouac and maybe then fell; they are only possibilities. 

  Next day 5 May weather very bad but Cardenas and Mingma tried to go to C4. On the way they found Chowang 200m above C3 and brought him to C3 in very bad weather.

  6 May Cardenas went to C4 and from there looked for other 2 above them with telephoto but saw nothing so brought C4 down to C3 same day.

  We think very difficult for Medina reach summit, but sure Saldana did reach it.

  Chowang: Saldana shouted: "I reached top, it is nice place." Thinks Medina did not reach top but thinks while descending roped together one slipped and pulled other down.

  Casanova: We want come again another mountain 3-4 years from now. Maybe mountain Yalung Kang. To summit Saldana carried metal box containing Nepal, Mexico and Univ flags same messages from all members. Yalung Kang not so difficult as some Andes mtns technically but height problem is great.

  Same route as Austria-Germany route.

  First Latin America success in Nepal. Satisfied with own results, our work. We feel we have capacity to return to Himalayas. Chose Yalung Kang as only 8000m available which came last Aug for a permit. 

  Leave KTM 1st June probably. 


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 19 May 80

  Yalung Kang message from LO dated 8 May.

  4 May [deaths]
    Hugo Saldana, 1954, student, Gelati, married
    Alfonso Medina, 1953, student, engineering, Mexico, single
    Chowang Renzi Sherpa, 22

  Went to summit from C4 (7900m), Started at 7:00 am. Reached 40m below summit at 5 pm. Saldana went to top alone. Other 2 stayed 40m below (no reason given). Only Medina used oxygen.
  Saldana reached top, according to Sherpa; Medina did not go to top.

  Sherpa felt very cold and thought would be late to reach C4 and started down alone. Reached C4 at 7:00 pm. Waited at C4 for 2 days but 2 Mexicans did not turn up.

  On 7 May all climbers on mountain left for BC.

  From C3 (7150m) Lucio Cardenas, 1954, Mexico, took movies but summit cannot be seen from C3. 

  By 13 May expedition will leave base camp.


  Mrs George Ritter - 24 April 80

  Yalung Kang doctor very sick with pulmonary edema when Mrs Ritter left German Yalung Kang BC 12 April, she hopes he hasn't died (Mrs. Ritter's husband is on Herrligkoffer expedition).


  M Cheney - 24 April 80

  Dr. Corona flew to KTM from Taplejung about 5 days ago. Stays in KTM until news of expedition's end received here. C2 had been made. 


  Delgado & Casanova - 12 Feb 80

  5 now in KTM, 5 more members arrive 18 Feb.
  6 climbers, 1 Doctor
  3 to BC only - principal of University sports
  University was 50 years old in 1979
  First Mexican expedition to all Himalayas.
  Leave 22 Feb by bus to Dharan and then walking. 
  Route = South Face, same as 1975 Austro-Germany.
  Leave Dharan 24 Feb and arrive BC about 17 days later.
  BC on Yalung Glacier 5400m. 4 or 5 camps above BC, highest camp at 7900m.
  5 Sherpas and sirdar Nima Norbu = 6 Sherpas above BC.
  Use oxygen climbing above 7300m.
  Expedition of University of Mexico Himalayas 1980 to Kangchenjunga West.


expid: GAN480301
peakid: GAN4
year: 1980
route1: SSW Ridge up; SE Ridge-S Face down
nation: France
leaders: Michel Feuillarade
sponsor: Expedition to Ganesh Himal Autumn 1980
ascent1: 3rd
approach: Trisuli->Ankhu Khola
bcdate: 1980-09-25
smtdate: 1980-10-11
termdate: 1980-10-14
othersmts: Had permit for Ganesh III (GAN3-803-01)
campsites: BC(25/09,4800m),C1(30/09,5700m),Smt(11/10)
routememo:
  Decamp & Feuillarade - 27 Oct 80

  Climb 8th Oct to 13th by 3 French. Feuillarade and 3 Sherpas tried to go via SW Ridge but it was too much for him to succeed. Tried on 9th and 10th reached about 6000m. Expedition finished after 13th safe descent.

  All Ok except Boissanet and Quilici.

  Would have gone to Ganesh II also if not so many members had left expedition in Sept and Thomas not strong climber.

  Difficult sections:
    1) below 1st biv - snow mushrooms and very steep
    2) about 6700m area more than 60% snow

  Climbed very light. no sleeping bags; down clothes and tent only. Made snow
    cave at 3rd bergschrund by Decamp, Dufour and Richier
  Climbed South SW Spur or Pillar:
  8th Oct: BC to 1st Biv at 6100m
  9th Oct: 1st Biv to 2nd Biv at 6500m
  10th: 2nd Biv to 3rd Biv at 6900m
  11th: 3rd Biv to summit to SE Ridge and down Japanese route with 4th Bivouac at 6900m
  12th - 4 Biv to C1
  13th - C1 to BC
  (see sketch map next page)


  Mohan Rai, Manaslu Trekking - 7 Oct 80

  Dr. Boissonnet left expedition 23 Sept because of swollen foot from infected leech bite. Dr. Brochand left expedition with with Boissonnet and both fly to France tomorrow.

  Today Quilici arrived in KTM with pulmonary edema; left BC 28 Sept, was carried for first 3 days, walked rest of way; will also leave for France tomorrow.


  Feuillarade, Leblanc & Thomas - 2 Sept 80

  Ganesh III and IV
  Ganesh IV route, SW Ridge up and SE Ridge down, this first goal
  Ganesh III after IV if time permits (route West Ridge)
  BC at 5000m south-southeast of Ganesh IV
  Approach via Ankhu Khola

  One camp above Ganesh IV; alpine-style climb for most part. French special food for altitude in plastic bags for different altitudes.

  If possible, after Ganesh IV will continue to traverse ridge eastwards and not descend to BC with one biv.

  Sherpas above BC: Lhakpa = member
  Mingma Tenzing = Sirdar
  + Dawa Bahadur Tamang maybe above BC (he will try)
  Oxygen medical only
  3 members in KTM, rest or KTM 11 Sept; leave 13 or 14 Sept.
  10 days approach much from Trisuli Bazar to BC.
  Medical research


expid: LHOT80101
peakid: LHOT
year: 1980
route1: S Face Direct (to 6000m)
route2: SE Ridge of Lhotse Shar
nation: France
leaders: Nicolas Jaeger
sponsor: French Expedition to Lhotse
bcdate: 1980-03-22
smtdate: 1980-04-26
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m+ due to disappearance of leader
othersmts: Climbed Baruntse illegally (BARU-801-01); attempted Ama Dablam illegally (AMAD-801-01)
campsites: BC(22/03),4850m,xxx(26/04,8000m+)
accidents: Jaeger disappeared
routememo:
  BC 22 March - 4850m
  1st attempt - direct (ended at 6000m 19th April)
  2nd attempt - via Lhotse Shar SE Ridge (soloist Jaeger disappeared) 
                26th April at 7200-7300m.

  During acclimatization period, attempted Ama Dablam and scaled Baruntse.


  Austin French Embassy - 18 Aug 80

  Nicolas Jaeger and Nicolas Bernardini attempted Ama Dablam's West Face and reached 300m from summit, then went to Baruntse and scaled it by North Face about 7 April. On Baruntse they put in ropes for French Baruntse team who were not strong climbers.


  Bill Rosser - 18 Aug 80

  Jaeger started up second time on 25th. On 26th saw him at about 7200-7300m at about 11:00 am. On 25th had stopped at 11:00 am, when clouds rolled in and snow sometimes fell after having climbed 6 hours. Next day was clear but we were too far away and Jaeger could have been out of sight on other side of ridge. On 25th Jaeger wasn't quite on Lhotse Shar ridge (at right of Jaeger's postcard).

  Jaeger told Bill Rosser at his BC he and other Nicolas Bernardini had attempted Ama Dablam (no success) and Baruntse (success) as acclimatization climbs.

  Jaeger also said his goal was to traverse from Lhotse Shar to Lhotse to Everest (up SE Ridge, down West Ridge/North Face to Lho La).

  Bill Rosser connected with film-makers:
    High Speed Productions
    160 East 48th Street, NYC 10017


  Zamada - 3 June 80

  Jaeger's plan was to go to Lhotse Shar, Lhotse Main Peak, East Col, Everest, North Col, Rangbuk Glacier, Lho La, Everest BC on Nepal side. He was on SE Ridge of Lhotse Shar.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 23 May 80

  Min: French crack mountaineer, Nicolas Jaeger, 33, 1978 Everest summiter, has disappeared in unknown circumstances while attempting solo ascent of South Face of Lhotse. We started climbing on 25 April, 10 days foodstuff in pack. He was last seen by Anna Tu crew members and they filmed him around 4:00 pm at an altitude approaching 8000m on 25 April.

  Tu team filming snow leopard and other animals and now in Gokyo. Jaeger was on his way to Lhotse Shar. On 19 April, he had climbed up to 6000m on Lhotse South Face and came down to BC on 20 April. He said to Brigitte there was too much snow and frequent avalanches in that area so waited to go up right side. Hence via Lhotse Shar. Half dozen numerous search and rescue missions by helicopters on behalf of French embassy could not locate him although pilots did not hesitate to take very big risks always flying to technical limits. Idea of a search party which was contemplated by family of Jaeger and has now been abandoned as no reasonable hope of finding him alive is left owing to the very high altitude he had reached without oxygen, although he is specialist in high altitude survival.

  According to Jean Mazeud, mountaineer from Paris, very difficult pass between Lhotse Shar and Lhotse at about 8000m. Possibility of very strong wind which could have blown him away; wind is from south and very difficult to descend solo.

  Statement left by Jaeger with French embassy taken by his mother and ret published in KTM; it said not to search after 15 May.

  Ministry expressed deep sorrow at disappearance.


  Ed Hillary - 13 May 80

  It was an incredibly hazardous undertaking in my opinion, and if it had been successful, it would have been a remarkable effort, but we cannot be surprised if it was unsuccessful. He had done same unbelievable climbs and he knew the risks he was taking.


  Austin - 13 May 80

  Jaeger had 8 days food with him can be extended to 15 days. He left 25 April and to face climb 26th. 

  There is something at about 6600m, could be body and bag.

  Very clear today. Cannot be sure of anything about clearly; may make another search after about 3 days. Will take 5-6 days of extensions.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 8 May 80

  Day before he left KTM Jaeger told Sharma, after 15 days from starting climbing he can presumed dead. He started on 24 April, so 15 days expired on 9 May.

  After 15 days if I don't return to BC, please don't search for me. Presume I am dead. Others of his expedition have gone to Lhotse West Face BC (arrived there 5 May) because he might descend via West Face. 


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 1 May 80

  Letter from Jaeger dated 17 April to Sharma says will start for Lhotse 24 April and maybe back from climb to BC 2 May and 5 May at Lukla to return to KTM


  Jaeger - 11 March 80

  Lhotse South Face impossible to climb in classical technique because especially lowest part exposed to avalanche and stone fall. The way to try is alpine-style. My speciality is solo climbing past 10 years; done a lot where technical problems also very serious though not so high.

  2 other French coming with Jaeger at BC and acclimatization climbing on Island Peak, etc, but will go to Lhotse only as far as biv on foot of mountain at 5300-5400m.

  BC very low at 4800-4900m just above Chhukung. Friends will wait at Everest BC for no possibility to descend by face.

  Leave KTM 13 or 14 March to Lukla. 1 week to BC and then 1 month acclimatization climbing; ready about 25 April for Lhotse.

  Jaeger's route not attempted before. Japanese in 1973 and 1976 were like Italians 1975: tried to get onto ridge by Lhotse and Nuptse.


  Jaeger - 12 March 80

  Single push to summit from BC in 6 to 8 days.

  So far major achievement in solo climbing is Messner's Nanga Parbat in Aug 1978 by new route. Lhotse Face is higher and more difficult. 

  Everest SW Face 2250m, 49 degrees average slope
  Lhotse South Face 3200m, 57 degrees average slope

  1975 Lhotes - 18 climbers, 60 Sherpas, 24 tons to BC, oxygen

  Jaeger Lhotse: 1 climber, no Sherpas above BC, 1 ton to BC, no oxygen.

  Most difficult part of route is top of snow and bottom of rocky section 1700m above feet of face.

  Cassin: "South Face of Lhotse is not only two Eigerwands, its is a monster." (Eigerwand in Bernese Alps 1600m)

  Messner: South Face of Lhotse is 3500m and is one of highest and most difficult walls in the world ... The direct ascent a problem for year 2000 ("The Challenge", p.32).

  Jaeger what is rec is to dare to try things the others don't.


  Nicolas Jaeger

  Born 20 Oct 1946, resides Paris
  Married, 2 daughters (12 & 3)
  Physician specializing in sports medicine and H.A. physiology; also professional climber: high mountain guide and degree but doesn't do much guiding or teaching.

  Over 100 solo ascents in Alps 1964-1976, 20 of then 1st solo ascents of high standards routes.

  Leader 3 expeditions to Peruvian Andes 1977, 78 and 79, all alpine-style, 13 solo ascents of which 9 on new routes and 1 unclimbed peak.

  Everest summit 15 Oct 78 - world altitude record on skis 16 Oct:


  * The book "Canadians on Everest" by Bruce Patterson (pp 186-7) says that the Canadian climber Roger Marshall on 21 October, 1983 found Jaeger's body inside a tent less than 500 vertical meters from the summit of Lhotse Shar.


expid: MAK288301
peakid: MAK2
year: 1988
route1: S Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Josep Aced
sponsor: Expedition Makalu 1988
ascent1: 16th
countries: Andorra, France
bcdate: 1988-09-02
smtdate: 1988-09-27
termdate: 1988-10-14
othersmts: Attempted Makalu (MAKA-883-02)
campsites: BC(02/09,5200m),C1(06/09,6100m),C2(16/09,7000m),C3(26/09,7400m),Smt(27/09)
agency: Kunga
primid: MAKA88302
routememo:
  All members reached Makalu La; 2 members (Zamora and Canellas) to summit of Kangchungtse 27 Sep from Makalu La camp via S Ridge.


expid: LHOT88302
peakid: LHOT
year: 1988
route1: W Face
nation: Czechoslovakia
leaders: Ivan Fiala, Jaroslav Orsula
sponsor: Ivan Fiala Autumn 1988 Everest-Lhotse Expedition
ascent1: 16th
bcdate: 1988-09-09
smtdate: 1988-09-28
smttime: 0600
othersmts: Climbed Everest (EVER-883-08)
campsites: BC(09/09,5350m),C1(12/09,6150m),C2(6450m),C3(7250m),Biv(27/09,8050m),Smt(28/09)
accidents: 4 climbers disappeared [on Everest]; BC visitor suffered concussion from fall
agency: Mountain Travel
primid: EVER88308
routememo:
  First made route on Lhotse Face with Koreans. Made C3 at 7250m and C4 just under chimney leading to summit at 7900m where spent only couple of hours; left at 10:00 pm, climbed during night and on Lhotse summit 6:00 am 28th Sept. Just and Becik only to summit. Bozik and Jasko stayed at C4, saving Lhotse top for after Everest after descending to S Col. Lhotse used primarily for acclimatization. All 4 descended to C2 on 28th.


expid: KANG80102
peakid: KANG
year: 1980
route1: SW Face
nation: W Germany
leaders: Karl Herrligkoffer
sponsor: Herrligkoffer Expedition to Kangchenjunga
ascent1: 6th
countries: Austria, Poland, Switzerland
approach: Yalung Valley
bcdate: 1980-04-06
smtdate: 1980-05-15
smttime: 1345
campsites: BC(06-07/04,5200m),C1(13/04,6100m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3(01/05,7100m),C4(14/05,7700m),Smt(15/05)
routememo:
  Georg Ritter - 31 May 80

  BC by 1st group about 6 or 7 April - Polish BC
  C1 about 13 April at 6100m
  C2 about 23 April at 6400m
  C3 about 01 May at 7100m
  C4 14 May at 7700m

  Summit 15 May by Ritter and 2 Sherpas and back to C4. All 3 used oxygen. One other Sherpa Ang Zambu was with them didn't use oxygen up to 8500m, turned back and used oxygen all way down (turned back because mind confused, tired, it was late).

  Lot of new snow on 15 May.

  Ritter reached summit 1:45 pm and Sherpas, found Indian flag ond snowbar: bar sticking out of snow, left it there.

  Two summit parties tried to reach C4 with idea to go to summit next day. Tried on 11 or 12 May and other 9 May; failed for many reasons including deep snow making it had going.

  Polish women at one or 2 times in C3 but don't think they made summit attempt (Ritter ill in BC at this time).

  No accidents - some here little frostbite.

  Route was same at British in 1955. So much snow against us, better to use sure route rather than mere direct route which looked very difficult (very steep rock, probably needed stronger summiter, not so late in season, not last possible summit attempt, no time for experiments).
  In descent powder snow was avalanching with us.
   
  Germany Kangchenjunga and Mexican Yalung Kang expedition alternately made route and fixed ropes to C2 and C3. Their C3's about 150m apart (Mexican higher than German) and C4's about 100m apart.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 23 May 80

  Summit 15 May at 2:00 pm by 
  1) Georg Ritter, born 1947, engineer, Kleinheppach, West Germany
  2) Nima Dorjee, 28, Pangboche
  3) Lhakpa Gyalbu, 27, Phortse

  These 3+1 Sherpa established C4 14 May at 7800m at 12 noon. Early am 15 May they started towards top and returned to C4 7:00 pm. 1 Sherpa Ang Zambu went without oxygen to 8520m with other 3. They went with oxygen. Ang Zambu has slightly frostbitten toes, so returned to C4 alone while others on up. No information on attempting again.


  Mrs Georg Ritter - 24 April 80

  10 April: 1st members reached BC, Herriligkoffer much later.
  Left BC 12 April.


  Herrligkoffer - 16 March 80

  Begin climbing early April; 6 weeks climbing
  4 camps above BC - C4 7800m
                     BC 5500m
                     C1 6100m
                     C2 6600m
                     C2 7300m

  Oxygen for some members from last camp. 60 bottles from C4 route is more direct than British 1955.

  10 Sherpas above BC including Gyalgen.


expid: KABN94101
peakid: KABN
year: 1994
route1: SE Ridge from E
nation: India
leaders: H. S. Chauhan
ascent1: 2nd,3rd
approach: From Yoksum west Sikkim->East Rathong Glacier
smtdate: 1994-05-10
othersmts: Climbed Kabru South (KABS-941-01) and Kabru Main (KABR-941-01)
campsites: BC,C1(21/04,5550m),C2(23/04,5850m),C3(07/05,6580m),Smt(10,13/05)
achievment: Two first ascents (Kabru South and Kabru III)
agency: None
routememo:
  From C3, various members made ascents as follows:

  10th May - Kabru North via South Ridge from east 
             2nd ascent by S. Bhogotra, Ramphal and 10 members (7338m / 24,075 ft.)

  12th May - Kabru South via North Ridge from east
             1st ascent by S. P. Malik, N. Arshad + 11 members (7317m / 24,006 ft.)

           - Kabru III via South Ridge 
             1st ascent by Dan Singh and 2 members (7395m/ 24,262 ft.)

  13th May - Kabru South 2nd ascent by A. B. Goth, A. Abby and 12 members

           - Kabru North 3rd ascent by 4 members

           - Kabru Main (Kabru III) 2nd ascent by Devi Singh and 3 members


expid: ANN180101
peakid: ANN1
year: 1980
route1: N Face (Dutch Rib)
nation: W Germany
leaders: Gustav Harder
ascent1: 8th,9th
approach: Mristi Khola->BC
bcdate: 1980-04-06
smtdate: 1980-05-01
smttime: 1630
termdate: 1980-05-11
accidents: No accidents; one member Staltmayr with frostbite
campsites:
  BC(06/04,4400m),C1(08/04,5150m),C2(10/04,5900m),C3(14/04,6350m),C4(20/04,6750m),C5(28/04,7300m),C6(29/04,7500m),Smt(01,03/05)

routememo:
  Harder - 22 May 80

  Route: Dutch route on North Face pretty much same as Dutch actually followed.

  No oxygen at all by anyone except for Erika when she got pneumonia. Had only 10 bottles with expedition for medical use; didn't use for sleeping. 

  C4 to C5 slow because snow waist deep; 2 Sherpas got sick and 1 member also. Most laborous part was the technical difficulties between C3 to C4. 

  No accidents, one member with some frostbite.

  Returned from BC by Mristi Khola, but really impossible for porters via normal way to BC; had to put in 600m fixed ropes. Took 8 days from Choya instead of expected 4 because could not find enough porters willing to go beyond Choya.


  Mueller-Esterl - 17 May 80

  Mueller-Esterl came to KTM by helicopter yesterday with Schrag who has frostbitten feet (will lose no toes). All others (except Erika Heimrath) are well and return to KTM 20 May. Erika OK now in KTM and returns with others to Germany. All leave 22 May.


  Hans Heimrath - 6 May 80

  1 May 4:30 pm 2 members reached top: Ang Dorje, Gustav Harder and Staltmayr and back C6 21:00 hrs. Left C6 7:00 am (C6 at 7500m left of cycle). Using Dutch route.

  3 May Schrag + Broeg + Ang Tsangi + Maila Pemba on summit 16:15 hrs and back to C5 21:00 and these 2 Sherpas to BC yesterday and other 2 in C4 yesterday.

  Yesterday those 2 skied C6->C4 and yesterday and today to C3 then no skiing possible on Dutch route. No one skied from summit. A lot of snow, too exhausting to carry skis up and ski down.

  Nikolaus Harder and Hummler to BC exhausted and unable go to top; Staltmayr same frostbite in fingers.

  Today or tomorrow, last man reaches BC. Expedition leaves KTM 21 or 23 May, arrives KTM 16 or 17 May.

  Erika Heimrath sick in hotel with Harstt, her father, who was visiting expedition. 


  Gustav Harder & Dr Mueller-Esterl - 17 March 80

  Route = North Face, Dutch or French routes depending on snow.
  Leave KTM after baggage arrive expedition Delhi.
  Road to Pokhara, 10 days to BC in usual place at 4800m.
  4-5 high camps with highest at 7300-7400m.
  5 Sherpas including sirdar Ang Dorje above BC.
  Oxygen medical only.

  Skiing down Annapurna: all members except doctor equipped for this; we learned from that (79) accident; maybe not possible to ski at that place, in one section consider that French skied down Annapurna.

  If ascend French route will descend by ski same route; if ascend Dutch route, would have to ski down different (i.e., French) route. Most important thing is to reach summit 6 weeks on mountain.


  Letter from Gustav Harder - 5 May 1980

  On 7 May Gustav Harder, Konrad Staltmayr and Ang Dorje Sherpa reached the top of Annapurna I at 16.00.

  On May Wolfgang Broeg, Karl Schrag, Ang Sangey Sherpa and Maila Pemba Sherpa reached the top at 17:00.

  Both groups worked without oxygen.

  The last camp was on an altitude of 7450m. The way from base camp to the top we followed the Dutch way. Skiing down was not possible; of course the way of the French was too dangerous about avalanches. Broeg, Schrag, Maila Pemba and Ang Sangey are in moment.

  On the way down to the base camp. All climbers are well. On the May 11 we will start the way back to KTM.


  Letter from Gustav Harder - April 14, 1980

  The way to the base camps was very difficult. The reason was the lot of snow on the way up from Kali Gandaki and some problem with the porters. So we need 14 days from Pokhara to Base Camps.

  Now we are a week here and today the first group will reach C3 above the Dutch ridge.

  All members are by good health.


expid: DHA180101
peakid: DHA1
year: 1980
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Hans Von Kaenel
sponsor: Eiselin Sports Dhaulagiri Expedition 1980
ascent1: 11th-15th
countries: Austria, USA, W Germany
approach: Pokhara->Myagdi Khola->BC
bcdate: 1980-04-07
smtdate: 1980-05-13
smttime: 1030
campsites:
  BC(07/04,4600m),ABC(18/04,5700m),C1(21/04,6400m),C2(03/05,7050m),C3(10/05,7500m),Smt(13-14,17-19/05)

routememo:
  Ballmann + Burkhardt - 27 May 80

  6 came to KTM todayl others in Marpha and on to KTM 3 or 4 June.
  2 with frostbitten toes but no major loss. 
  No accidents and one pneumonia in early days reached summit.
  New snow on 15th and 16th delayed more summit attempts and no oxygen in high camp. 

  Ang Rita after 1st ascent descended to ABC at 5700m before going up again; spent more than week over 7000m. Never used oxygen as other 2 Sherpas but all members summiters did.

  Ballmann met Polish, etc. They all 4 climbed face to 7500m to Swiss C3, then down for rest and back up NE Ridge all the way from 4500m-4700m until 16 May. Then up with Ballmann's party and on top with Ballmann party from C3, which was highest cap at 7500m.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma - 26 May 80

  Summit by 17 men:
  13 May-  1) Hans Van Kaenel, leader, 40, Bern
           2) Fritz Luchsinger, 59 years
           3) Ang Rita Sherpa, 36, Namche, at top 10:30 am

  14 May-  4) Hans Zimmermann, 43, electrician, Biel, Switzerland
           5) Hans Joerg Mueller, 1949, mountain guide, Reichabach, Switz.
           6) Josep Buholzer, 1947, joiner, Horw, Switzerland
           7) Raymond Monneret, 1942, Moutier, Switzerland

  17 May-  8) Hana Burgstaller, 44, master baker, Putzleinsdorf, Austria
           9) Hans Eitel
          10) Fredy Graf, Switzerland
          11) Marcel Ruedi, Switzerland

  18 May- 12) Mike Ballmann, Switzerland
          13) Rudolf Bleiker, Switzerland
          14) Mingma Gyalzen Sherpa
          15) Lhakpa Gyalzen Sherpa (without oxygen)

  19 May- 16) Simon Burkhandt, Switzerland
          17) Jean Mueller, Switzerland
          18) Ang Rita Sherpa (again)

  Expedition finished.


  Von Kaenel & Burger - 17 March 80

  Route = NE Ridge (Swiss route)
  Leave KTM 19 or 20 March; last member arrives KTM tomorrow and all baggage here.
  Road to Pokhara; leave by 22 March arrive 13-14 days to BC with about 200 
    porters via Myagdi Khola.
  BC at Italian site at 4600m and one week there.
  Prepare ABC at 5600m after one month start for Col.
  3 camps above ABC summit in 1st 10 days of May. 
  9 Sherpas above BC including sirdar Mingma Mote.
  Oxygen for climbing above last camp at 7800m (same may not use it). 
  Give chance to advanced climbers (good ones but no stars) to climb 8000m.
  20th anniversary of 1st ascent when all food brought from Switzerland; now as 
    much food as possible from Nepal.


expid: FANG80101
peakid: FANG
year: 1980
route1: W Ridge from S
nation: Austria
leaders: Sepp Mayerl
sponsor: East Tirol Expedition to Fang
ascent1: 1st
countries: W Germany
approach: Ghaleti Khola
bcdate: 1980-04-12
smtdate: 1980-05-17
smttime: 1600
termdate: 1980-05-23
campsites: BC(12/04,3500m),C1(16/04,4500m),C2(22/04,5700m),C3(06/05,6450m),C4(16/05,7040m),Smt(17/05)
routememo:
  Mayerl - 29 May 80

  Route was West Ridge from South approached via Ghaleti Khola to point south of ridge halfway between point 18,600 and Fang on Harka Gurung map. Not so long this way to get mountain and straight up from BC to ridge; wall very steep: from BC to C2 2800m fixed.
   
  C2 = 1st camp on ridge above C2. 1200m fixed rope.
  No accidents, not much frostbite.
  South face of ridge is rock climb, no avalanching there.
  No oxygen for climbing.
  C1 to C2 some difficulty as Matterhorn North Face: 70 degrees and steepness 
    first 300-400m
  C4 = 7040m on 16 May


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 22 May 80

  Permitted South Face to C4 and West Face to summit
  17 May summit by
    1) Hermann Neumair, 1951, Lienz, carpenter
    2) Josef Mayerl
    3) Ang Chopal, 33, Kharikhola
  Flags of Nepal and Austria and club on top took photos in clear weather and -20 degree
  Climbed from West Face
  On top 16:00 to 16:30 

  Started climb at 5:00 on 16 May; bad weather and had to fix rope to 6500m, so delayed in climb and made emergency biv at 7040m 16 May for that night; next day 17 May started again 3:00 am and returned to biv with battery lights at 22:00 hours.

  Health good.
  Because fixed rope from BC to 6500m and route very hazardous and difficult, others
    will not try for top.
  23 May were to leave BC for KTM.


  Mueller-Esterl, Annapurna I expedition - 17 May 80

  Fang expedition going well; have put in all camps and waiting for good weather.
  (one member [Dr. Bahner] left expedition a week ago with injured finger).


  Mayrl - 1 April 80
   
  Route = West Ridge from South
  From Tatopani to Nanchung to Ghaleti Khola to BC 
  BC at 4000m
  Route is first to South Face of West Ridge and then east along ridge to top
  2 camps on face and 3 on ridge = 5 camps above BC
  C5 about 7200m
  Most difficult part will last 300m of ridge to top, rock ridge with steep 
    rock walls
  Leave KTM Friday or Saturday by road to Pokhara. Pokhara to BC 7 days.
  Arrive BC middle April: 12-14th
  4 weeks climbing; top by middle May: 10-20th
  Quite sure to succeed
  Best climbers from Tyrol; Hermann Neumayr led much of last years climb
  No oxygen climbing
  4 Sherpas above BC including sirdar Ang Chopal


expid: TILI80101
peakid: TILI
year: 1980
route1: N Ridge
nation: W Germany
leaders: Joerg Biel
sponsor: Joint German-Swiss Expedition to Mt. Tilicho
countries: Switzerland, UK
bcdate: 1980-04-22
smtdate: 1980-05-01
termnote: Abandoned after 6100m on 1 May because of bad weather
campsites: BC(22/04,5500m),xxx(01/05,6100m)
accidents: Zurbriggen got serious altitude sickness; one Sherpa cut his finger and could no longer climb
routememo:
  BC established at 5500m between Tilicho Lake and North Ridge 22 April. Second party arrived there 23 April. Tried summit 1 May.

  No real higher camps. Found Japanese fixed ropes which refixed and used them up to 6000m. Wanted to make C1 at about 6000m. Took 3 days to repair Japanese routes and doing this 1 Sherpa cut his finger and could no longer climb.

  1 climbing member Zurbriggen got serious altitude sickness and had to be taken down on way to Jomsom; doctor went with him towards Jomsom.

  2:00 am 1 May Biel and Lohmatter and 3 Sherpas started from BC to go to top. Reached 6000m where had supplies at 11:00 am. Only 1 Sherpa to be used for this ascent, so sent back all 3 and then 2 members up to see route above. Reached 6100m maximum altitude. Then heavy thunderstorm so descended and gave up attempt. Only 2 climbing members now on mountain and Sherpas useless. Also too dangerous to go on. Were on North Ridge = Japanese route.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 7 May 80

  Abandoned after 6250m on 1 May because bad weather.


  Dr Biel - 3 April 80

  2 here now, rest arrive 14th. Biel leaves Saturday/Sunday and walk to Manang from Dumre while rest fly to Jomsom.

  BC between Tilicho Lake and North Ridge
  ,
  Route = North Ridge. Probably same as Japanese spring 1979. Hasn't seen ridge from last expedition. Biel was on Tilicho North Ridge in 1972 from west side. Was with Swiss guide and 2 locals and reached 6000m just at beginning of ridge. Was May and much snow and avalanching.

  Biel makes BC at about 5500m. Goes with 20 porters and reaches BC about 15 April. Others fly to Jomsom 17th and cross Thorung La. At BC 21st April.

  1 camp above BC on ridge at about 6500m above 2 small ice ridges which are difficult part of route. Perhaps only 1 Sherpa above BC, but here 4 total. Don't count on others who are Tamangs going above BC. Above BC definitely will be sirdar Ang Kami who has been with Swiss before.

  Oxygen medical only.

  1 week, or 2 weeks at most to summit from BC. On summit by beginning of May latest.
  Joint German-Swiss Expedition to Mt. Tilicho.


expid: GAUR80101
peakid: GAUR
year: 1980
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Patrick Alexander Cullinan
sponsor: Australian Expedition to Gaurishankar
approach: Bhote Koshi->Simigaon->Rolwaling Valley
bcdate: 1980-03-14
smtdate: 1980-04-11
smttime: 1230
termdate: 1980-04-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6333m due to bad weather and lack of time
othersmts: Summited Dolma Kang (Tseringma Peak) (DOLM-801-01)
campsites:
  BC(14/03,4700m),ABC(16/03,5000m),C1(20/03,5320m),C2(24/03,5580m),C3(26/03,5680m),C4(04/04,6050m),xxx(11/04,6333m)

routememo:
  Cullinan - 22 April 80

  Tseringma Point 6333m which is definite peak and highest point reached. Reached 12:30 on 11 April by Richards, Brammer and Shambu Lama Tamang and on 13 April by Carroll, Hardless, Remynse and Cullinan.

  Each camp = 1 tent; no room on mountain for tents and most of those were hacked out of ice. Constantly avalanching on C2 and C3 with C3 flattened by spindrift from avalanching. Weather continually bad with heavy snow, drifting snow and white-outs. 2 full good days during entire expedition.

  Ran out of time; said would be back at week 1 May. This route is possible with plenty of equipment (and a fear deaths, adds one member), but ridge is so badly corniced would have been doubtful. With resources we had, Tseringma was just right. One huge rock barrier half-way up to South Summit looks like a brick wall.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 16 April 80

  Gaurishankar camps:
  16 March - 16,800 ft - ABC
  20 March - 18,000 ft - C1
  24 March - 18,500 ft - C2
  26 March - 19,000 ft - C3
   4 April - 19,400 ft - C4

  3 more camps required very good weather.
  All well except Young while going to establish C4 slipped and fell nearly 1200 feet 3 April, but now Ok.


  Charles Dufour - 8 April 80

  24 March met Jim MacDonald one day below BC; sick with altitude illness and was returning. Have had a lot of trouble with equipment disappearing and lot of snow.


  Cullinan - 20 Feb 80

  Approach east to Tungmarnang river, with lower BC at 3200m at this Rolwaling Chu and Tungmarnang, northwards to BC at just under 4000m just below rivers fork then east on ridge line to point 5345m and then north to point 6333m. Then to South Peak (7010m) and then to summit (7146m) calling route SE Ridge.
   
  All now in KTM. By road to Barabise. About 8 days walk to lower BC (1/2 day lower to higher BC).

  3 camps above higher BC but maybe 4; highest camp just below South Summit or possibly at low point between South and North (Main) Peaks.

  BC about 6 March
  Summit about 12 April
  4 Sherpas above BC including sirdar (Shambu Lama or Ang Tsering)
  No oxygen for climbing, only for medical if available in KTM.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 22 April 80

  Gaurishankar abandoned; reached Gauri (Tseringma) Peak, 6333m, on 11 April by Richards and 2 members. Abandoned 13 April because bad weather and shortage of time. All are now in KTM.


expid: APIM80101
peakid: APIM
year: 1980
route1: S(E) Face
nation: UK
leaders: Sir Crispin Agnew of Lochnaw
sponsor: Army Mountaineering Association Api Expedition 1980
bcdate: 1980-03-19
smtdate: 1980-05-01
termdate: 1980-05-07
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to difficult (rotten) ice conditions, exhaustion and bad weather
campsites: BC(19/03,4000m),C1(01/04,5090m),C2(16/04,5640m),C3(21/04,6200m),C4(29/04,6650m),xxx(01/05,7000m)
accidents: John Arthy fell 150 feet in serious of slides and fall and was unhurt
routememo:
  Agnew, Bridges and Simkins
     
  Route = South Face of Api. Route was on south side of mountain along a ridge to a pyramid in front of main mountain and from top of pyramid 400m to actual face and thence up center of face.

  Top of pyramid = 20,400 feet where had C3 (established 21 April).
  C2 at 18,500 ft was 2/3 up ridge in distance (established 16 April).
  C1 at 16,700 ft at beginning of ridge, which was start of climb.
  C4 at 21,800 ft on upper of 2 hanging glaciers (established on 29 April) = single tent = assault base = under hanging serac over which powder snow. Available went safely by Arthy and Bridges occupied. 

  C4 on 29th. On 30th stayed in camp. At midnight 30 April/1 May began summit bid. Wind apparently disturbing snow high on face because almost constant deluge of snow avalanches. Traversed slightly to rib where snow became very heavy snow coming down on both sides roaring down with spindrift. Went on up hard ice rib with frostbiting till 10:00 am when ran out of strength at about 23,000 ft. Then just exhausted took 6 hours down to C4 and 1 more hour to dig camp out of snow fall (avalanches stopped with daylight when wind eased off).

  1 May was one fine day in 3 weeks so no afternoon avalanches, otherwise I very much doubt we would have got back. John Arthy fell 150 feet in series of slides and falls as it was from top of 310m glacier; unhurt but fingers freezing. 2 May Arthy had to be escorted down to C3. 2nd May Arthy, Simkins and Walsh took over C4 and had second try during night of 2nd/3rd May started 10 pm. Got to bottom; where at top ridge of glacier C4 located of bergschrund at midnight and onto face proper. At 1:00 am weather broke with thunder and lightning and got avalanched and retreated to bergschrund till 3:00 am. Then too late for onward progress and went back to C4 at 4:30 am then down to lower camps.

  3rd May - that was end of climbing effort. Left BC 7 May.

  Route is viable but were plagued by bad weather, soft dangerous snow and avalanches.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 14 May 80

  Abandoned C4 23 April 6575m, then route difficult and weather bad stopped on 3 May. Leave BC 7 May. All well except 1 little frostbite.


  Agnew - 10 Feb 80
   
  10 now in KTM, 2 more later about 20 Feb, all leave KTM together by road about 24-25 Feb or so; 150-200 porter loads including porters food in food-deposit area. 

  Arrive BC about last week March (4 days drive and 2 weeks walk). After acclimatization start climb early April and summit bid early May.

  Route: have a look at rib up South Face but little information on it. 1971 Japanese had look and went to West Ridge, so went to East Col and East Ridge as did 1978 Italians.

  Photos of rib on South Face looks reasonable high up but question of how to get well on to it.

  BC at head of Chamlia Khola south-southeast of Api about 14,000 feet; then ABC at foot of mountain about 15,000-16,000 feet.

  Would like to do rib alpine-style but maybe necessary put 2 or 3 camps on ridge 
    and face top point from which can move quickly.
  No oxygen for climbing or sleeping - medical only.
  No Sherpas above BC, Sirdar Ang Tsering at BC only.
  AMA Api Expedition 1980.
  All British


expid: MAKA80101
peakid: MAKA
year: 1980
route1: W Pillar (Ridge)
nation: USA
leaders: John Roskelley
sponsor: American Makalu Expedition
ascent1: 14th
bcdate: 1980-03-28
smtdate: 1980-05-15
smttime: 1530
termdate: 1980-05-21
campsites: BC(28/03,5200m),C1(02/04,5830m),C2(10/04,6550m),C3(24/04,7380m),C4(14/04,7770m),Smt(15/05)
routememo:
  Roskelley - 31 May 80

  Reached C3 12 May and set. Real technical difficult route above C4. French did fantastic job in their climb with straight granite walls high up.

  Americans would not have been able to make another summit attempt; weather not good and they were tired.

  Ministry's times on 15 May correct. Roskelley took brief maps on descent and got to C4 at 8:30 pm (Jim and Chris there at 7:30 pm); continued on down to C4 rather than biv cause no strength to survive biv.

  No accidents or frostbite.

  10,000 feet fixed ropes; no oxygen and no Sherpas above BC.

  "It went so smoothly. I can't believe it."


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 23 May 80

  Summit on 15 May 3:30 pm by one member (Roskelley) whose name not disclosed because collective and credit should not go to one man team effort. Stayed on top 15 mins, took photos and collected summit rocks. Started from C4 at 2:00 am and returned to C4 8:30 pm.

  Others not trying for summit. arrive KTM 30 May.
  Summiter's health good.

  2 other members accompanied him from C4 try could go to only 1500 ft below summit and then became tired.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 8 May 80

  LO letter dated 25 April says C3 established at 7772m (25,500 ft) on 24 April by all members; weather very good that day.


  Roskelley - 4 March 80

  American Makalu Expedition 
  Route = 1971

  French West Pillar without oxygen and Sherpas and only 4 climbers; safe but technically difficult, some verticals pitches of class 6.

  Most difficult between C5 and C6 between 24,000 to 26,000 ft, but whole ridge extremely steep - class 6 climbing at high altitude.

  BC sirdar and cook Ang Nima (on Gaurishankar with Americans). Other 2 members are now in Delhi with baggage. Hope ot leave KTM in a week and arrive BC 1st April.

  BC 17,000 feet in usual place; C1 will be at base of pillar at 21,000 feet. 30-45 days to reach summit depending on weather.


  Letter from John Roskelley - May 7, 1980

  Plan summit attempt 12 or 13th the Buttress was difficult, but overcome in 3 days to French Camp 6 at 25,495 ft. We have dropped to get our heads together and renew our physical strength. We will ascend tomorrow to C2 then to C3 then to establish a C4, drop to C3 then move up. Hopefully the weather will hold for our summit attempt. If not we will wait.


  Letter from John Roskelley - April 26, 1980

  This has been my first chance to keep you informed as to our progress in some time. We have fixed ropes to 24,000 ft (French C4), but have carried loads only twice to that point. High winds have kept us pinned to the ridge at 21,500 ft and we have now stocked that camp fully. We expect the buttress to be technically difficult, but with a relaxation of the winds it should go quickly.

  Our camps are differently designated BC = French Camp 1; Camp 1 = French Camp 2, etc. Hopefully we will have only one camp above the buttress.

  All of us are healthy and acclimatizing well. No problems encountered up to 24,000 ft we could not handle easily.


  Letter from Roskelley - March 30, 1980

  We have reached and supplied our prospective base at the foot of the West Ridge, 17,100 ft. We are using the Japanese Base as opposed to the French Camp 1 situated several hundred feet above us. At present we are occupying the commonly used Makalu Base below the South Face, 16,000 ft.

  We trekked for 17 days from Dharan to Makalu without any problems due to our excellent Sherpas. The trek over Shipton Col was the most difficult stage and we encountered deep snow until the Barun Khola. Base was snow free until last night when a pretty serious storm has come in dumping 3 ft of snow with high winds.

  All of us are in good health and looking forwards to climbing.


expid: ANN380101
peakid: ANN3
year: 1980
route1: N Face
nation: Australia
leaders: Warwick Deacock
sponsor: Australian Expedition to Annapurna III
countries: UK
approach: Marshyangdi->Braga->BC
bcdate: 1980-03-07
smtdate: 1980-03-25
termdate: 1980-04-02
termnote: Abandoned at 5335m due to avalanching and fatal accident
campsites: BC(07/03,3780m),C1(28/03,5030m),xxx(25/03,5335m)
routememo:
  Deacock - 15 April 80

  Maximum altitude reached = 17,500 feet by one of 3 recce groups searching best route, reached on 25 March; their part of mountain was also avalanching and this route not used again.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 8 April 80

  Deacock: Snowing 30 March climbers descending from C1 when snow avalanche carried 3 away. Remaining 4 searched but to no avail. Message was run to BC and remainder of climbers ascended to site and after systematic probing, the final body was discovered at 4:40 pm. Dr. Brian Fearnley (47) medical practitioner Christchurch, New Zealand and Dr. Kenneth Bowes performed last rites for bodies. These were then carried up to grave situated splendidly at 14,000 feet. A simple burial service was held. Later a headstone was placed on their graves.

  Bowes said C1 16,500 ft on 28 March established by Morse, Reeves, Blake and Bowes.

  On 29 March Jonathan Chester, Richard Schmidt and another member [Bartram] joined the 4 at C1.

  7 sleeping in 3 tents 29/30. At about 9:30 pm, 2 tents were swept away by avalanches. 4 including Dr. Bowes were swept away in those 2 tents, but all safe and all in one tent next day they decided to descend.

  Bowes said to Ranjan Gupta four actually hit by avalanche but one (whose name not given) got out.

  Deacock after 3-4 days


  Al Read - 7 April 80

  McDowell, Blake, LO + Sherpas leave Chame 6-7th, arrive KTM 10th or 11th or even later.

  Note from Warwick dated 2 April:
  8 others via Thorang La
  Funeral April 1
  29 March 7 climbers at C1.

  Avalanche destroyed camp that night, climbers salvaged tent and sat in it all night. On 30th they retreated toward BC but at about 14,000 ft an avalanche carried 3 men away. Remainder attempted to dig for them. All climbers went up and found the bodies that afternoon. Next day 31 March mountain too dangerous for movement.

  Expedition abandoned on 1 April still is dangerous condition.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 1 April 80

  3 members Australian Annapurna III died instantly in an avalanche 30 March and expedition abandoned:

  1) Stafford James Morse
     27, farmhand
     Inverall, NSW

  2) Nicholas David Reeves
     27, barrister
     Camberwell

  3) Richard John Schmidt
     35, training officer
     Wellington, NZ
     (Australian)

  "All others are Ok"

  Message from Deacock; no altitude given.
  BC - 17 March 3700m.
  Expected established C1 5550m very soon in message received 31 March in Ministry.


  Deacock, Monteath and Co. - 5 March 80

  Leave Dumre 7th - 12 days to BC.
  Have equipment for 5 camps but may not need 5 camps - almost certainly 4 camps.

  Expedition will need 2 weeks to acclimatize and recce route which may be Indians 1961 route or same other on North Face.

  "Being a climber in Australia is a bit like being a sailor in Nepal".

  "Indian route very easy technically so no reason why all shouldn't get to top", if use that route, says Monteath.

  Problem to find safest route through series of icefalls and staying away from ice cliffs below 20,000 feet.

  Some problem from deep snow on North Shelf at 20,000-21,500 feet; have snow shoes for this; will almost certainly be crossing this shelf whatever route chosen - Monteath.

  6 weeks on the mountain - Monteath.

  1st all Australian expeditions this year. Gaurishankar expedition's route definitely more difficult; we have technical experience, but now to get altitude experience (none of us much above 20,000 feet before).


  Deacock & Monteath - 3 March 80

  Leave 6th March to Dumre by road, thence up Marshyangdi to Braga.
  Route = north side of mountain, which includes a number of ribs, faces, etc.

  Will decide precise route when see mountain; don't know exactly where Indians went, so may well be variation.

  About 130 porters Dumre - BC in 15 days.
  BC at about 16,000 feet - up to 5 camps above BC, which is at fairly low altitude.

  1 Sherpa above, sirdar Pasang Ongchu of Namche (was with Americans Nepal 1979 Gaurishankar).
  3 weeks acclimatization and moving loads up and establishing camps. 
  Summit late April; leave Nepal 1st June.
  Oxygen medical only

  Doctors: 
  Bowes leaves 3 April.
  Fearnley arrives 27 March with 1st trekking group.


expid: MAK280101
peakid: MAK2
year: 1980
route1: S Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Armando Menocal III, Gene White
sponsor: Berkeley Makalu II Expedition
approach: Tumlingtar->Shipton La->Barun Glacier (BC)
bcdate: 1980-04-27
smtdate: 1980-05-06
termdate: 1980-05-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to member's severe AMS
campsites: BC(27/04,5000m),C1(30/04,5300m),C2(02/05,5600m),C3(04/05,6100m),C4(06/05,6400m,xxx(06/05,6400m)
accidents: Warburton became seriously ill at C4
routememo:
  Gene & Jim White - 20 May 80

  Had 4 camps, C4 at about 6400m. Warburton woke up unable to talk, etc about 8 May. Sent Mrs White down for help from lower camps which came up same day. Took him down on 9th for 2 days to C1 where met Makalu I expedition by radio and Makalu I sent over oxygen which helped his recovery from cerebral edema. Could have been complicated by brain damage in USSR.

  8 days carrying him to Tumlingtar; has badly swollen legs and pain in both and cannot walk.

  BC 16,500 ft 27 April
  C1 17,500 ft 30 April (where US Makalu I have BC)
  C2 18,500 ft 2 May
  C3 20,000 ft 4 May glacier
  C4 21,000 ft 6 May on Chago Glacier west of North Col

  South Ridge starts at 24,000 ft so not yet on ridge. Had 4 in C4: 3 Whites and Warburton.

  Doctor left expedition 30 April saying she had cerebral edema; her boyfriend left with her (Tileston). Armando Menocol never went above C2 because didn't acclimatize.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma Tourism - 18 May 80

  Abandoned 11 May after 6300m, bad weather.


  Menocal & Gene White - 15 April 80

  Fly to Tumlingtar tomorrow; 9-11 days to BC at about 5200m.
  From BC to Chago Glacier to Makalu La.
  Route = South Ridge
  About 4 camps above BC just below Col 23,400 feet
  300 feet just below Col is gentle rock and way need fixed rope; that's 
    only different part.
  20 days at most on mountain; all have commitments back home, i.e., jobs, etc.

  No oxygen. 
  No Sherpas above BC probably. 
  Sirdar Pasang Dorje Lama might be carrying loads to C1.


expid: LANG80101
peakid: LANG
year: 1980
route1: (A rib on) S Face
nation: UK
leaders: Michael Searle
sponsor: British Langtang Expedition 1980
countries: Canada
bcdate: 1980-04-07
smtdate: 1980-05-02
termnote: Abandoned at 5600m due to bad weaether and lack of suitable tents
campsites: BC(07/04,3600m),C1(13/04,4100m),C2(19/04,5000m),xxx(02/05,5600m)
routememo:
  Michael Stead - 15 May 80

  4 arrived in KTM 10 May; others arrive end of May.

  C1 about 13,500 ft on 13 April on shoulder beside glacier west of point 17,456 ft on Harka Gurung map. 

  C2 about 16,500 ft on 19 April on a shoulder east of the glacier.

  C3 never established; went up to recce its sites at about 18,500 ft but ridge face very steep with extremely hard ice. Reached this point which was highest point expedition reached on 2 May. Groves and Marjot decided then to call attempt off.

  Quite technical ice climbing and physically hard ice and had no suitable tent for this. Also weather deteriorated with snow by late morning.

  This route will be climbed but not easy; needs more equipment and better tents than we had. No accidents, etc. No other peaks.

  Got roughly to some point as 1964 Japanese; same route which only feasible route on that face.


  Searle - 28 March 80

  Leave KTM 2 or 3 April by bus to Trisuli Bazaar on foot from KTM.
  7 days expedition Trisuli to BC.
  Route = South Face (new route); maybe same features as Japanese 1964 but will 
    have look from Ganga La at avalanche patterns for safest route.
  BC at about 13,000-14,000 feet just above Langtang village.
  Most difficult: 1st 2000-3000 ft of rock
  Will put 2 camps on rock with higher one at 3,000 feet and then alpine-style 
    climb with snowholes.
  Sirdar Serki Tsering will go above BC
  Arrive BC about 10 April.
  One week acclimatizing, 4 weeks climbing, summit mid-May
  No oxygen


expid: AMAD80302
peakid: AMAD
year: 1980
route1: N Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Yasuji Kato
sponsor: Tokyo Himalayan Expedition
ascent1: 11th-13th
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1980-10-01
smtdate: 1980-11-08
othersmts: Attempted Kusum Kangru (KUSU-803-01)
campsites: BC(01/10,4700m),TempC1(10/10,5300m),C1(23/10,5900m),C2(01/11,6300m),Smt(08-10/11)
routememo:
  Teranishi - 25 Nov 80

  BC on west shore of lake east of Duwo village.
  BC at 4700m on 1 Oct. Temp C1 snowhole at about 5300m not much used;
   used about 2 weeks, made on 10 Oct.
  Next camp at 5900m = C1 on 23 Oct
  Attack camp 1 Nov at 6300m on snow plateau.

  Route = North Face (new route), not French or British route
  Climbing route from BC south of lake and up west side of Duwa Glacier.

  Face not difficult but dangerous for 3 weeks in Oct. Most days couldn't climb because snow slabs and icefall. Fine weather 20 Oct onwards.

  Fukushima fell with snow 100m on 6 Oct and had to go to Pheriche "hospital" for recovery; Kato hit by ice serac and 2 weeks to recover.

  7 Nov 1st summit attempt almost reached top but very strong wind. Tomita and Fukushima forced down but next day went again up and made summit on 8 Nov. Followed on 9th by Tsuboi and Kato and on 10th by Ogawa and Teranishi.

  Teranishi, Fukushima and Tsuboi now in KTM. Others in Khumbu and have Kusum Kangru permit to Dec 4.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma Tourism - 18 Nov 80

  Success via North Face (1st North Face ascent)

  Fukushima  8 Nov
  Tomita     8 Nov
  Tsuboi     9 Nov
  Kato       9 Nov (leader)
  Ogawa      10 Nov
  Teranishi  10 Nov

  From C2 but details not know left BC 15 Nov. All are well.


  Kato - 17 Aug 80

  North Face or NW Face. After reaching mountain will decide which route. North face is probably impossible; both new routes. New Zealand route is between these routes.

  BC north of Ama Dablam at 4500m; only one camp above BC: no sites above BC except at above 6000m.

  Leave KTM 15 Sept to Lukla and arrive BC 5-10 Oct. Thyangboche for 2 weeks acclimatization before BC; two to four weeks climbing [actually left KTM on foot on 16 Sept, no Lukla flights].

  No Sherpas above BC
  Medical oxygen only


expid: GAN280301
peakid: GAN2
year: 1980
route1: NE Spur
nation: Japan
leaders: Shoji Imai
sponsor: Nepal & Aichi Himalayan Joint Expedition 1980
countries: Nepal
approach: Buri Gandaki->Toro Gompa Glacier
bcdate: 1980-09-13
smtdate: 1980-10-09
termdate: 1980-10-16
termnote: Abandoned at 5600m due to fatal avalanche
campsites: BC(13/09,3650m),C1(28/09,4600m),C2(04/10,5400m),xxx(09/10,5600m)
routememo:
  This mountain previously known as Ganesh III until re-surveyed in early 1990's.

  This expedition's route was the NE Ridge; it was east of North Ridge followed by German expedition in autumn 1981, according to Herman Warth.

  Ganesh II - S Ridge 

  BC 3650m - 13th Sept
  C1 4600m - 28th Sept 
  C2 5400m -  4th Oct
  Highest point 5600m - 9th Oct

  3 members killed by avalanche 9th Oct.


  Nitta - 21 Oct 80

  2 weeks searching route before making C1. Climbing started 22 Sept. BC at Toro Gompa glacier of a small N Ridge.

  Tried climb small N Ridge and C2 was on small plateau on this ridge; very easy route, climbing members say.

  3 members last were at 5600m on big plateau on small N Ridge; above C2 60m icefall. 4 members were here on 9th Oct above icefall, which was fixed; roped and making route to C3.

  Snow avalanche came from above small N Ridge and hit all 4 men. After avalanche 3 members missing and Murase not injured: he was not in direct line of avalanche at moment it hit.

  This only avalanche; route is safe, climbers think, but pre-monsoon perhaps too much snow.


  L.O. DP - 16 Oct 80

  Leader and 2 members arrived today on helicopter. 3 missing men are dead. Searched for days and not found C2 5600m just below camp and hit. Climbing abandoned.
   
  Others arrive 15 days later.


  Imai - 23 Aug 80 (with help in English from Nitta)

  Expedition had permit for Ganesh I to climb via Sangeng (Sangjung) Glacier, but now border runs south of glacier so this approach not permitted, so original route of S Ridge not possible and ministry proposed Toro Gompa Glacier approach.

  But this latter approach means SW Face which is very difficult.
  Big avalanching rock face of 4000m height which is impossible to climb.

  So expedition proposed Ganesh III from Toro Gompa Glacier to east face of N Ridge to summit, new route.

  If ministry gives written Ok tomorrow, 3 members, and 10 porters leave Kathmandu 26th Aug and others leave 28th Aug.

  Caravan 13 days to BC at glacier from Buri Gandaki
  BC 3800m at bottom (NW) end of glacier.
  4 or 5 camps above BC with last camp at 6500m.
  Face of ridge may offer no camp site and may be only biv.
  Face of ridge is missed ice and snow with 600m icewall and steep rock 
  5 Sherpas above BC including 2 members of expedition; sirdar is Zangbu Sherpa.
  Oxygen medical only.
  BC about 10 Sept.
  Summit 20 Oct; time to find route, maybe changing approach to Ridge.


expid: NILN80301
peakid: NILN
year: 1980
route1: SE Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Oh In-Hwan
bcdate: 1980-09-27
smtdate: 1980-10-06
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to difficult rock and shortage of time
campsites: BC(27/09,4300m),C1(30/09,5000m),C2(03/10,5400m),xxx(06/10,6200m)
routememo:
  Oh In-Hwan - 17 Oct 80

  South Face: all rock, very difficult, overhang, dangerous
  C2 on 3 Oct 5400-5500m 
  C3 at 6200m wanted to make but could not. 

  Reached 6200m as highest point on 6 Oct. Stopped climb because have no more time, route very difficult, one member sick and eye affected by altitude. Need more young members and 2 was on or at bottom of mountain.


  Shailendra Sharma, Tourism -  16 Oct 80

  Nilgiri North abandoned 10 Oct because of shortage of time - no other information. Only 3 members.

  C2 established 3 Oct; don't know if C3 pitched. 


  Oh - 8 Sept 80
   
  Arrive KTM 7th.
  Leave Pokhara 12th Sept, arrive BC 22 Sept. 
  BC = 4300m
  3 camps above BC; C3 = 6500m
  Summit 3 Oct
  Route = SE Face, same as 1979 Japanese.
  2 Sherpas above BC. 
  No oxygen for climbing or sleeping, none at all 
  Last part of mountain is 600-700m steep rock wall. 
  Kim is expert in rock climbing. 
  Team is small: 3 members, so peak Nilgiri N is very challenging.


expid: KAN180101
peakid: KAN1
year: 1980
route1: NW Ridge of Kande HN II
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Ruedi Meier
sponsor: Neuchatel Expedition to Sisne Himal 1980
approach: Chaudhabise Khola
bcdate: 1980-04-11
smtdate: 1980-04-29
termdate: 1980-05-09
termnote: Abandoned at 6150m due to difficult sawtooth ridge
othersmts: Climbed Kande Hiunchuli North II (KAN2-801-01)
accidents: None
achievment: Climbed Kande Hiunchuli North II (1st ascent)
campsites:
  BC(11/04,4060m),C1(12/04,4800m),C2.ABC(13/04,4250m),C3(15/04,5190m),C4(23/04,5700m),C5(29/04,6150m),xxx(29/04,6150m)

routememo:
  Ruedi Meier - 6 March 85

  Meier agrees with British 1984 that Swiss in spring 1980 were not on Sisne, which is west of Chaudhabise Khola, but on a Kande Hiunchuli peak and reached Kande Hiunchuli North Peak II.


  Meier - 18 May 80

  Left Surkhet 21 March and arrived in Jumla 2 April; left Jumla 4 April and in BC 11 April in Chaudhabise Khola at point 16,700 ft.

  BC 4060m, 11 April

  Went through pass east of point 16,700 ft and to Shangde Khola. 

  C1 just before pass at 4800m 12 April. 
  C2 = ABC - 4250m in Shangde Khola at foot of glacier on 13 April.
  C3 at foot of NW Ridge of Sisne at 5190m on 15 April.

  Sisne = 3 peaks, highest is S Peak 21,720ft
  NW Ridge leads to N Peak (21,230 ft)

  Could not go to main summit: 2 weeks more from this side; very sharp, sawtooth ridge; would have go down Jagdula Khola side and up a pillar and put 400m fixed ropes and 1 or 2 more camps.

  Also climbed same small peaks not on map from C3, highest 5700m.

  No accident illness or frostbite.

  Used H-A porters for stocking high camps:


  H-A porters from photo in "Sisne Himal 1980":
    Ram Chandra
    Dorje
    Pemba Lama (sirdar)
    Unghele
    Jetta


expid: PUMO80301
peakid: PUMO
year: 1980
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yasuo Iwazoe
sponsor: G Ascent Club Pumori Expedition
ascent1: 12th
bcdate: 1980-09-12
smtdate: 1980-10-21
smttime: 1600
campsites: BC(12/09,5300m),C1(15/09,5675m),C2(27/09,6200m),C3(12/10,6500m),Smt(21/10)
routememo:
  Sugawara & Toya - 29 Oct 80

  Hamada, Sugawara and Mizoguchi reached top on 21 Oct 4:00 pm. Started from C3 at 8:00 am, 20 mins on top in very strong wind. That nights bivouac at 7000m in snowholes. Reached on 22 Oct C3 at 9:00 am and BC at 4:00 pm same day.

  Sugawara some frozen toes but will be Ok. Very difficult climb and bad weather. Took long because snow deep and soft, cold temperature and wind.

  Normal route = South Ridge. Later in Oct on summit than leader planned because snow ridge and snow face in bad condition. Needed 2200m fixed rope. From C2 to C3 very difficult snow ridge, snow face, rock face to snow ridge.

  1st attack by 4 members on 19th Oct by Iwazoe, Toya, Koga and Mizoguchi. Very strong wind reached 7000m biv point (snowhole on snow face) of 21 Oct and stayed there night of 18th Oct.

  20 Oct 2nd attack by Iwazoe, Koga and Mizoguchi; up only 4 pitches to 7100m; again strong winds and returned to C3.

  21 Oct new team to top and down to biv.

  All members came to KTM and all Ok. Leave Nepal after 1 week.
  No accidents or avalanche and only 1 with frostbite
  No oxygen used; no other mountains [climbed]


  Yasao Iwazoe - 13 Aug 80
   
  All in KTM. 1st party arrived 1 Aug and 2nd party 8 Aug
  Leave KTM 18 Aug by road to Lamosangu, arrive BC after 14 days.
  2 weeks acclimatization climbing from BC.
  Route = SW Ridge, same as 1978 Japan expedition.
  Pumori very famous mountain and our purpose all members get to top with no Sherpas.
  No Sherpas above BC and no oxygen.
  BC at 5200m above due west of point 5527m on Schneider map.
  C1 5800m
  C2 6200m
  C3 6500m
  Dump 6800m
  Most difficult part from C2 to dump, saw-tooth ridge, some blue ice, some rock.
  Summit 8-14 Oct - hope all members summit.
  GAC Pumori Expedition
  (G Ascent Club - G = Giant peaks)


expid: EVER89315
peakid: EVER
year: 1989
route1: N Face (Japanese & Hornbein Couloirs)
nation: Japan
leaders: Yoshio Ogata
sponsor: Himalayan Association of Japan
bcdate: 1989-08-25
smtdate: 1989-10-21
termdate: 1989-10-30
termnote: Abandoned at 8200m due to avalanche danger
routememo: Reached 300m below Hornbein Couloir and then joined Chilean group.
agency: None
campsites:
  TempBC(25/08,5150m),BC(30/08,5500m),ABC(03/09,6150m),C1(23/09,6900m),C2(13/10,7500m),C3(20/10,8000m),xxx(21/10,8200m)


expid: ANNS88201
peakid: ANNS
year: 1988
route1: SW Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Luca Tessarin
ascent1: 9th solo
smtdate: 1988-08-18
campsites: Smt(18/08)
agency: Jai Himal Trekking
routememo:
  Jozef Nyak, Editor, Taternik, Poland, in American Alpine Journal, 1989, pg 221:

  Italian Luca Tessarin climbed solo the 2000m SW Face of Annapurna South by a new route which was mostly 50-55 degree ice with two short vertical sections and 100m of UIAA Grade III to IV rock. The final push started on August 16 and the top was reached on the 18th.


expid: TUKU80301
peakid: TUKU
year: 1980
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Tatuo Morimoto
sponsor: Miyazaki University Alpine Club Himalaya Expedition to Tukuche
ascent1: 5th
bcdate: 1980-09-11
smtdate: 1980-09-28
smttime: 1130
campsites: BC(11/09,4900m),C1(24/09,5200m),C2(27/09,6200m),Smt(28/09)
routememo:
  Tori - 13 Oct 80

  Almost 2 weeks from BC to C1 because of difficult icefall with 900m fixed rope and because bad weather. Went to summit on 28 Sept in 3 groups: 1st group on top 11:30 am, 2nd group at 11:45 am and 3rd group at noon.

  Left C2 5:15 am and returned to C2 at 3:00-6:00 pm. Sherpas to C1 6:00 pm.

  Ang Temba little frostbite. No accident or illness.
  Climbed SW Ridge. 1st ascent this route.


  Kondo & Ikada - 19 Aug 80

  Leave 22 Aug for Pokhara by road. 6 members now in KTM and 1 today to Pokhara to hire porters. All leave Pokhara 23 Aug with 40 Porters. Arrive BC after 7 days to Tukuche
    village and 10 days then French Pass.
  BC north of NE Col at 4500m
  Route = SW Ridge from NE Col on Japan Dhaulagiri map
  3 camps above BC
  C2 at NE Col 5877m 
  C3 at point 6690m
  3 weeks climbing = summit about 1 Oct
  4 Sherpas above BC; sirdar = Ringi
  No oxygen at all.


expid: BARU80301
peakid: BARU
year: 1980
route1: S Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Tetsuya Saito
sponsor: Utsunomiya University Baruntse Expedition 1980
ascent1: 6th-8th
approach: Tumlingtar->Barun Glacier->Sherpani Col->West Col
bcdate: 1980-09-01
smtdate: 1980-09-26
smttime: 1130
campsites: BC(01/09,5000m),C1(07/09,5150m),C2(12/09,5750m),C3(16/09,6150m),C4(23/09,6500m),Smt(26-28/09)
routememo:
  Nobuyasu & Nagashima - 14 Oct 80

  Climbed South Ridge, same route as New Zealand 1954.
  No frostbite, accident or serious illness.
  Good weather
  Pinnacle above C4 difficult; sharp snow ridge from C4 to top.
  26 Sept left C4 1:30 am and arrived summit 11:30 am.
  No trace of dead French.
  Actually 3 people reached summit on 27 Sept; Nawang Yunde Sherpa went with 2 Japanese.

  Camps established as follows:
    BC - 5000m 1  Sept
    C1 - 5150m 7  Sept
    C2 - 5750m 12 Sept
    C3 - 6150m 23 Sept


  Saito & Oba - 16 Aug 80

  Route = South Ridge (same as 1954 New Zealand)
  See plate 38 in Galfy's Makalu (their ridge from summit in right of pix down 
    to left central).
  Approach via Sherpani Col.
  All members in Nepal; 2 on way via Dharan with 85 porters and 3 Sherpas, etc.
  6 in KTM leave Monday by scheduled flight to Tumlingtar and meet walkers 
    at Tumlingtar.
  BC at about 5000m in Makalu BC area near Barun Pokhari; route thence to Sherpani 
    Col, then to South Ridge above West Col.
  4 camps above BC:
  C1 on Barun Glacier northeast of Sherpani Col at about 5300m
  C3 at 6500m just below South Ridge and north of West Col.
  C4 at 7000m on Ridge.
  Last 200m very difficult hence need for camp at 7000m; snow ridge badly corniced.
  3 Sherpas above BC - sirdar = Pasang Norbu
  Oxygen meical only
  Arrive BC 5 Sept
  Summit 3-5 Oct (3rd = Oba's birthday)


expid: GAUR80301
peakid: GAUR
year: 1980
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Michio Yuasa
sponsor: Nepal-Japan Joint Expedition to Mt. Gaurishankar 1980 (JAC)
bcdate: 1980-08-31
smtdate: 1980-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to bad weather and fatigue
othersmts: Summited Dolma Kang (Tseringma Peak) (DOLM-803-01)
campsites: BC(31/08,4800m),C1(11/09,5500m),C2(27/09,6050m),C3(05/10,6100m),xxx(15/10,6400m)
routememo:
  Ichihashi - 27 Oct 80

  C3 made 5 Oct at only 6100m, almost same altitude as C2. Highest point about 6400m reached on 15 Oct by Ozaki and Otsubo. Went to point 6333m which is really 6100m high and 300m above and 2 km farther along very difficult rock ridge. Above point 6400m was 200m rock face and at attack time for this face, 18-20 Oct, bad weather: cloud and most members too tired to continue. Tents at all camps torn by wind and snow.

  Route is possible but half members sick or tired or have business in Japan climbing with half power. Of 18 climbing members only 3 attacking mountain other at end members will come KTM about 31 Oct.

  No accidents or frostbite
  5000m fixed rope; all route fixed roped from BC to top of route.
  No other peaks attempted


  Ichihashi - 7 Aug 80

  Approach from Beding, up Jomoi Gul Chhu Valley to BC at about 4800m at point west of "N" in Schneider map of Rolwaling to Pt 6333m where put C2 and thence on SE Ridge to South Face for part of climb (face 200m). 3 days climbing at 6500m to 6700m to South Peak 7000m where then down north of South Peak put C4 to 6700m, then to Main Peak. C4 final camp.

  Today last party leaves KTM, arrive Beding after 10-12 days, reaching BC after 2 more days, dumping baggage, then climbing members help make bridges.

  14 Japanese climbing members and 3 Nepalese climbing;
     rest of members involved in bridge building.
  Ichihashi led recce in Nov 79 to BC.
  3 Sherpas and 3 Nepalese members above BC; Shambu Tamang = Nepalese Leader
  Oxygen medical only
  Summit about 5 Oct


  Poudyal Yeti Mountain - 7 Aug 80

  Nepalese climbing members
  1) Shambu Tamang, 27 yrs old, Sindupulchowk, Lisanku village
     climbed Everest 5/5/93

  2) Pasang Kaji Lama, 35 yrs old, Salleri
     was with 1970 Japanese Everest expedition

  3) Ang Phuri Lama, 28 yrs old, Beni
     1979 Lhotse Polish expedition (over 8000m)


expid: LANG80301
peakid: LANG
year: 1980
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Iwao Otsuka
sponsor: Freestyle Climbers Club Himalayan Expedition
ascent1: 2nd
bcdate: 1980-09-03
smtdate: 1980-10-26
smttime: 0920
campsites:
  BC(03/09,4200m),C1(07/09,4900m),C2(15/09,5600m),C3(02/10,6100m),C4(14/10,6700m),Biv(25/10,7100m),Smt(26/10)

routememo:
  Otsuka - 4 Oct 80

  BC  3 Sept 4200m
  C1  7 Sept 4900m
  C2 15 Sept 5600m
  C3  2 Oct  6100m
  C4 14 Oct  6700m
  Summit 26 Oct by all 6 members.

  On 16, 18, 25 and 26 Oct expedition made and summit attacks. 1st 3 attacks were not successful, but on 25 Oct biv at 7100m and 4th attack at night.

  16 Oct very big wind
  18 Oct very big wind
  25 Oct 3 members route making take long time. Stayed biv at 7100m

  26th - 3 members from C4 went to biv site and together all 6 to top; left C4 at 2:00 am, reached biv site 6:30 am; all left biv 7:30 am and arrived summit 9:20 am; 1/2 hour on summit in very clear but cold and windy weather; arrived C3 3:00 pm and stayed there that night.
  Climbed South Ridge, new route; difficult ice ridge with same rock face, all very steep.

  No accidents, no frostbite.


  Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 30 Oct 80

  Summit from South Ridge 26 Oct all 6 members; from highest camp started 6:30 am and on top 9:20 am without oxygen. All well.


  Langtang - 24 Aug 80

  Leave KTM 27 or 28 Aug, approach via Trisuli Bazaar, Trisuli River, Langtang Khola to Langtang Glacier southeast of mountain; 7 days caravan.

  Route = South Ridge, same on 1964 Japanese expedition (which reached only 5300m) and 1971 which also tried East Ridge.

  3 Sept climbing start
  BC 4200m at bottom of glacier
  C1 about 4500m
  C2 5300m on ridge
  C3 6000m on ridge
  C4 6700m on ridge
  Maybe biv between C4 and top 
  Summit 15 Oct
  Most difficult between C2 and C3 in very steep mixed rock and ice
  No Sherpas above BC
  No oxygen for climbing; only 2 bottles for medical use


expid: BARU80302
peakid: BARU
year: 1980
route1: N Ridge from W
nation: USA
leaders: Peter Hackett
sponsor: Eastern Sierra Himalayan Expedition
bcdate: 1980-09-26
smtdate: 1980-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6950m due to cold and wind
campsites: BC(26/09,5120m),ABC(28/09,5280m),C1(02/10,5600m),C2(14/10,6180m),xxx(17/10,6950m)
routememo:
  Fischer - 27 Oct 80

  Schlim never joined in the climbing, just escorted LO to BC and said hello, then went off to Pheriche and HRA aid post. 

  No sign of French bodies, not even fixed ropes found.


  Fischer - 28 Oct 80

  Head wall = wall above
  Imja Glacier to North Col

  Climbed 4/5th of way to North Summit via North Ridge (not main summit because Johnson and Collins had left expedition about 25 Sept; didn't even try climbing above BC because didn't like look of headwall).

  After about 25 Sept on mountain Fischer, Hackett, Jensen and Wiltsie. Hackett got tired and sick 6 Oct and down to BC; out of action five days. Then all four climbers went up and got as high as 100m below North Summit on 17th Oct. Turned back in very cold and strong wind. Jensen and Hackett's toes because numb (and still are numb).


  Hackett - 9 Aug 80

  Route probably same as French 1980, i.e., North Ridge from west side (but perhaps from east side). To get to North Col to go to North Ridge taking skis and hope to ski down North Ridge, from North summit 7057m to Col at 6190m.
   
  Sherpa climbing course of 37 Sherpas on Ama Dablam from Mingbo before Baruntse, so will approach from West almost certainly.

  Leave 15 Aug to Lamosangu arrive Mingbo 1st week Sept; course taught 5-25 Sept.

  BC 27 Sept at about 17,000 feet on Imja Glacier.
  Probably a well-stocked camp on col north of Baruntse at 6180m.
  No Sherpas above BC and no oxygen.
  Pasang Kami = sirdar for Sherpa climbing course.
  Tsering Wangchu = BC sirdar.


expid: AMAD80301
peakid: AMAD
year: 1980
route1: N Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Arthurs Pass Himalayan Expedition
ascent1: 9th,10th
countries: Australia
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1980-09-15
smtdate: 1980-10-18
smttime: 1130
campsites: BC(15/09,5180m),C1(26/09,5945m),C2(14/10,6555m),Smt(18,21/10)
routememo:
  Brice - 27 Oct 80

  Tuesday 21st, 3 more on top: on clear very windy day. mild frostnip
    Rob Hall
    Graham Elder
    Bill King

  Peter McInally didn't acclimatize and went only to C1. Brice and Murie to KTM today, others tomorrow.


  Brice - 17 Aug 80

  Members walk 17 days to BC; all equipment is already in Khumbu. Acclimatization climbing and putting in fixed rope simultaneously in two parts.

  3-4 weeks climbing summit about 1st week Oct depending on weather.
  BC about 3500m in different basin from Japan BC; will be on Duwo Glacier.

  No Sherpas above BC
  No oxygen 

  Route = North Ridge, same as French autumn 1981 = from Duwo Glacier to Col at 5365m

  2 camps: C1 5000-5500m
           C2 6000-6500m


expid: DHA180301
peakid: DHA1
year: 1980
route1: N Face
nation: USA
leaders: Vera Komarkova
sponsor: American Women's 1980 Expedition to Dhaulagiri I
countries: Australia, Czechoslovakia, Switzerland
bcdate: 1980-09-04
smtdate: 1980-10-05
termdate: 1980-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to fatal avalanche
campsites: BC(04/09,4400m),C1(07/09,5000m),ABC(11/09,5900m),C3(25/09,6500m),C4(05/10,7100m),xxx(05/10,7100m)
accidents: Fatal avalanche
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  Oxygen taken (see Press Conference Aug 8 below) but probably not used.


  AWED press conference - 3 Nov 80

  C4 established 5 Oct 7100m by Annie Whitehouse, Vera Komarkova, Ang Rita, Ang Gyalzen.

  C4 was highest point reached; planned 2 more camps. C4 not actually occupied but supplies put there and route made there. Went down 5th Oct to C3 and stayed there next day because of winds; were there till 7th, the day of avalanche. Wind on 6th & 7th same wind 100 km/hr.

  Luedi was digging platform for space for more tents at C3 and saw avalanche site and movement of people there so knew something had happened but no radio contact for an hour. An hour after avalanche hit at 2:15-2:30 pm, sirdar at C2 (5900m, established 11 Sept) came on radio. C2 had 5 members and 5 Sherpas in it at the time. All 5 members in one tent getting ready to play cards after lunch - rest day because of wind 8 tents at C2 including cook tents. All tents destroyed or badly damaged by avalanche.

  Simer had just gotten out tent and heard setting of snow, whoomp sound. Lyn and Diane were sitting closest to tent door and everyone started to door to see where Dr. was but almost immediately tent was hit and started moving. They were jumbled up inside tent and inside 10 seconds realized had fallen into crevasse. Fell 30 feet along to crevasse and 30 more vertically into crevasse. Snow piled in on top of us but not totally buried by snow. Hit snow bridge inside crevasse and wedged between bridge and crevasse edge. Kearney upside down cut air hole. Dailey thrown out of tent and buried in waist deep in snow bridge itself. Assumed Lyn also thrown outside tent and buried in snow debris. We couldn't see each other because equipment jumbled with sleeping bags around face. Cut through tent within couple minutes and then climbed to find out if all Ok. All minor injuries, only bruises.

  Sherpas helped 3 out of crevasse after some minutes after fetching sling webbing. Smith thought Lyn unconscious in tent. Sherpas brought sling webbing & Sherry tied into it. Smith, Simer and Kearney got out of tent and on to snow bridge. Dailey and then Simer were pulled up out of crevasse by Sherpas. Lyn may well still be in tent but pulled out pieces of tent for 1-1/2 hour but not Lyn. Then Kearney and Smith searched else where in crevasse. Giller arrived expedition C3 and she was lowered into crevasse continuing search. Then members started picking snow outside crevasse and continued till 10 pm and continued again next day and following 3 more days members and 2 Sherpas came from C3 by about 7 pm with stoves, food, tents and shovels.

  8th Oct searched mostly in crevasse, she could scarcely be alive. 9th Oct dug out trench in crevasse and also tent site.
   
  Dailey: "as far as we could determine she must have been thrown out of tent and fell into crevasse past the point where we could get anyone down there"; crevasse was at least 150-200 feet deep - we went 150 feet down.
   
  Dailey: we were surprised we didn't have more injuries.

  Komarkova: Chose Dhaulagiri because we knew approach. Chose Pear Route because we climbed and opinion of many that it was safer than NE Ridge. Still think it relatively safer except upper part above C4 exposed to winds. "We could not have foreseen this accident."

  Climb had gone pretty smoothly until accident despite snowstorms.
  BC established 4 Sept and left it 18 Oct.
  Decided stop climbing 9 Oct and started evacuating on 10th.

  Komarkova: Doubt would have reached summit in view of winds experienced by other expeditions this season. Don't know plans for next climb but would like to try Pear Route again, put up small memorial at C2 site in rock cliff with Lyn's name and birth dates as on same at BC on very large boulder. Sherpas built stone alter and memorial service on 16th.

  Simer: Lyn had just said she loved this country, could live here for ever shortly before accident.


  Vera Komarkova - 2 Oct 80 (report to HMG)

  11 Sept C2 established by Simer, Smith and Gyalzen at 5900m.

  After some delay caused by snowstorms, C3 was established on 25 Sept by Giller, Luedi, Ang Rita and Ang Gyalzen at 6500m.

  Prior to C3 established mountain was visited by US Ambassador Trimble who climbed with us to the then high point on the route, 6200m.

  Team is in good spirits ans relatively good health.


  Trimble - 2 Oct 80

  One snowstorm date arrive at BC for 3 days; struck 3 days then Vera and I carried loads to C3; probably C4 made now. 

  Route C1-C2 well established loads to C1. 
  No problem of accidents. Real hard climbing above C4, 45-degrees 
  Wished he could have stayed for whole expedition. 
  Trimble is Ok; if lost any weight, put it back on at Jomsom waiting for flight. Arrived KTM late this autumn. 


  24 Sept 80 - postcard from Tanya dated 18 Sept: 

  11 Sept C2 established by Lucy Smith, Cyndy Simer, Gyalzen Sherpa
  5600m [18,370 feet]
  C2 is now Advanced Base camp and occupied 
  18 Sept route to C3 is underway


  Postcard from Lucy dated 15 Sept:
   
  Established C2 Sept 15. We had about a week of week of carries to ready it for all. Mean while a small team will be out to find C3. This camp will be the first of real climb.


  24 Sept 80 - postcard dated 27 Sept from Susan: 

  We now have the route into C2 (19,000 feet) or 5800m and are progressing well. Tomorrow we begin the route to C3 but still have lots of loads to get to C2, which is what I'll be doing for the next 3 days before moving up the mountain.

  Postcard dated 19 Sept from Lyn Griffith says C3 now in position. Base Camp is at 16,000 feet. Total 6 camps to be established above BC.

  Postcard dated 15 Sept from Robin (in German) says Phil Trimble arrived 14 Sept. He left KTM 8 Sept.


  McConnell - 12 Sept 80

  McConnell left BC on 7th, 1st day of good weather, and C1 expected to be pitched that day. All members well except Diana Dailey, whose blood pressure too high. Dr Weber of support team left because of chronic back problem and hadn't expected such strenous conditions.


  Komarkova press conference - 8 Aug 80

  Pear route, 6 unsuccessful attempts, 1954 Argentina
  9 support team carry to C2.

  Sirdar Sonam Girme Sherpa and 4 HA Sherpas; Kathryn Collins = BC doctor 
  All climbing and support members are in KTM. 

  Leave KTM after about 1 week. Pear route safe than regular route and challenge since not climbed; safer because no avalanching.
   
  Use oxygen above 24,000-25,000 feet
   
  200 porters on approach march over Dhampus Pass probably.
   
  BC - 15,500 feet on Myagdi Glacier
  C1 - 16,500 feet
  C2 - 18,500 feet (good site)
  C3 - 20,500 feet base of Pear
  C4 - 22,000 feet top of Pear
  C5 - 23,000 feet bottom of rocky ridge
  C6 - 25,000 feet beyond rocky ridge

  No recce of Dhaulagiri - saw it from Annapurna.


  Mike Cheney - 19 Aug 80

  Lin Murphy came to KTM and was then informed she was no longer attached to Dhaulagiri expedition. Ambassador Trimble asked SCT to help her with a climb of Chulu West.


  American Alpine News (AAJ) - March 1981
  By Vera Komarkova

  Our attempt on the Pear Route on Dhaulagiri I, an AAC-sponsored expedition, was abandoned October 9, 1980, mainly on account of persistent, strong, already-winter winds and continuing avalanche conditions. On October 7, during an avalanche at the site of Camp 2, Lyn Griffith, an Australian and the leader of our support team, disappeared. Rescue efforts were in vain, and we deeply grieved this tragic loss of a close friend.

  We had not climbed on 6-7 October on account of high winds which re-distributed the snow that fell in the second half of September and created avalanche conditions lower on the face. At 2:15 pm on 7 October, a localized slab avalanche off the ridge above broke over most of the tents at Camp 2, pushed them downslope, and covered most of the campsite. One tent with five climbers inside was pushed into a crevasse and landed on a snow bridge about 40 feet below the surface. Diana Dailey was on the snow bridge, three climbers were still inside the tent, and Lyn Griffith was missing. The Sherpas present at Camp 2 freed themselves from the tents and snow, and helped the slightly injured climbers out of the crevasse. Despite a two and half day search, carried out principally by Sue Giller, both in the crevasse and under the snow, we did not find Lyn Griffith. She had been sitting next to the the tent entrance and apparently fell out of it and slid into the crevasse.

  The highest point reached by our expedition was Camp 4 at about 23,300 feet, at the top of the Pear (5 October), by Annie Whitehouse, Ang Rita, Ang Gyalzen (Phortse) and myself. The difficulties on the route lie above our high point. All Sherpas and climbers reached at least Camp 3 at 21,300 ft.

  The climbing party was supported by four high-altitude Sherpas, three low-altitude Sherpas, and a sirdar. A support team of nine members ensured logistical support over the 17,000 ft Dhampus and French passes. Some members of the support team also participated in ecological, meteorological, medical and glaciological research, which was supported by the Explorers Club and the AAC. Excellent arrangements were provided in Kathmandu by Mountain Travel. Phil Trimble, U.S. Ambassador to Nepal helped us greatly; Phil visited our Base Camp and climbed almost to Camp 3.


expid: MAKA80301
peakid: MAKA
year: 1980
route1: SE Ridge (to 8075m)
route2: NW side (to 7550m)
nation: UK
leaders: Doug Scott
sponsor: British Makalu Expedition 1980
countries: Australia, France, Switzerland
approach: Tumlingtar->Shipton La
bcdate: 1980-09-16
smtdate: 1980-10-20
termdate: 1980-10-31
termnote: Abandoned at 8075m due to winds and bad visability
othersmts: Climbed Kangchungste (Makalu II) (MAK2-803-01) and Shershon Northwest (SHNW-803-01)
campsites:
  BC(16/09,4800m),C1(14/10),C2(15/10,6800m),C3(16/10,7400m),C4(17/10,8010m),C5(18/10,8075m),xxx(20/10,8075m)

routememo:
  BC for Makalu II, 20 Sept 5400m/17,700 feet
  Makalu II summit - 5 Oct via South Ridge  
    Scott, Bettembourg (ski descent), Baxter-Jones

  BC for Makalu I - 15,000 feet, about 10-12 Oct
  Highest point - 26,500 feet, 20 Oct via SE Ridge

  Baxter-Jones tried solo ascent on west side; reached 500 feet above Makalu La (which is 7400m) on NW Ridge.


  Doug Scott - 19 Oct 88

  Scott's team climbed the left side of South Ridge, a different route from the normal South Ridge route.


  Doug Scott - 1 Nov 80

  Makalu II: climbed variation French 1954 route on South Ridge from Makalu La by Scott, Baxter-Jones and Bettembourg; had BC at 17,700 feet. No fixed camps above BC, just moving camps was excellent acclimatization. At 24,000 feet was with top of Mount Blanc.

  Climbed half dozen peaks on west side of Chago Glacier.

  Bettembourg skied all way from Makalu II summit to 19,000 feet; from top to Col one day, 2 days later to 19,000 feet and moraines.

  Makalu: Baxter-Jones, Bettembourg and Scott tried SE Ridge all way over points 6260m and 6825m and north and northwest onto glacier southeast of Makalu. 

  19th got to 8000m on 6th day
  20th (7th day) very bad wind and no more food, bad visibility, only just over 8000m (26,300-26,400 feet=8016m-8048m). 

  Thinks different route from Spanish 1976 and Japanese 1970 who went to Col north of point 6825m and through same route. Were going to traverse and go and down via Makalu La. Ran out of time, unable make 2nd attempt. Were back in BC 22nd. 

  BC was different BC at 15,000 feet; wanted to go from towers to summit.

  Standen left expedition a week or so ago because of altitude sickness; all others well; weather has been good and were acclimatizing. Had made a BC but BC for climbing would be moved 2000 feet higher. Will stay in Nepal till expedition finished (at KTM Guest House in KTM).


  Doug Scott - 1 Sept 80

  Alpine-style all the way:
  1) Kangchungtse, maybe West Face depends on snow 
  2) Makalu probably true NW Ridge
  3) Makalu West Face if conditions good; this one of hardest routes in Himalayas above 26,000 feet.

  Sherpas possibly above BC to ABC, unless Ang Phurba will go very much higher.
  Leave KTM 3rd and 5th Sept, arrive BC by 15 Sept. 
  Same acclimatization in areas before Kangchungtse.
  Georges will try ski descent of both mountains from summit.

  Makalu West Face: hardest route in world at that altitude; harder than anything on Everest or Kangchenjunga, compares with South Face of Lhotse.


  From Doug Scott:

  We left Base Camp 17,717 ft on 1st October and had our first camp at 19,000 ft on the medial moraine of the Chago Glacier. Our second camp was at 21,000 ft (6400m) where, unfortunately, Ariane was forced to descend due to a severe throat infection. Georges and I accompanied her down on skis, to the moraine and then she made her own way down to BC. That was on the morning of the 3rd October. During the afternoon Georges, Roger and I pushed on up to camp the night at about 22,000 ft, where Roger and I thankfully left our skis. The next day we broke trail to the Makalu La 7400m with Georges labouriously pulling his skis behind. On the 5th October we left camp on the col and climbed up a fairly steep (60 degrees) gully to the west of the ordinary route and reached the summit ridge, which was heavily corniced. We scrambled along the airy, 1/2 mile ridge to its second summit, possibly the highest at 25,066 ft. Georges had left his skis at the south end of the ridge and from there proceeded to ski down difficult snow on the eastern side and round to the Makalu La, where we had a second very windy night. On the 6th October we descended to BC after a very satisfying climb. Georges skied down a mixture of powder crust and ice, all the way from the Makalu La to the moraine, thus making the first ski-descent of this peak. Roger and myself, a comparative novice, skied down from 22,000 ft. We thought the skis were more trouble than they were worth. Arlene was at the lower base camp where the doctor from the Japanese Baruntse expedition had kindly given her medicants for her sore throat and a fever she was running. She decided to walk out early with Sailor and await our return in Sedua, where she would recover more easily.


expid: ANN380301
peakid: ANN3
year: 1980
route1: N Face-E Ridge up; NE Face down
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Denis Bertholet
sponsor: Swiss Expedition to Annapurna III 1980
ascent1: 6th
approach: Dumre->Marshyandgi->Braga
bcdate: 1980-09-29
smtdate: 1980-10-15
smttime: 1600
othersmts: Climbed East Summit of Annapurna III (Bertholet, Gailland, Polli) (1st ascent)
campsites: BC(29/09,4000m),C1(5400m),C2(6100m),C3(12/10,6700m),Smt(15/10)
routememo:
  Dr. Pfefferle - 31 Oct 80

  Arrive BC after 9 days trek so BC at 4000m 29 Sept.

  C1 5400m
  C2 6700m - 12 Oct
  Summit   - 15 Oct 4 pm by Rieben & Temba

  15 Oct very windy; started 7:00 am and on top 4 pm; too windy to sleep on ridge and must go to C3 very tired but successful at 11 pm.

  Route to left of Indian route; went very close to East Ridge East Summit (about 6900m).

  East Summit climbed by Bertholet, Gaillard and Polli on 17 Oct (1st ascent).

  17 Oct winds too strong to continue. Had to evacuate III because snow soft powder and changing with wind. BC to C1 fixed rope. Most difficult climb was summit ridge and very sharp hard snow and ice. Slow ascent on 15th because very long ridge, strong wind and much snow. Tempa had little frostbite on arrival BC 16th.

  No accident or serious illness.

  Technically not so difficult, but physically difficult because long and windy & very cold and at altitude says summiter. 

  6 members in KTM; leader after 3 weeks trek via Kali Gandaki.


  Shailendra Sharma Tourism - 22 Oct 80

  East Ridge route.

  Summit reached 15 Oct by 
    1) Jean-Pierre Rieben, 1947, mountain guide           
    2) Temba Sherpa, 28 

  Started from C3 (6550m established 3 Oct ) at 7:00 am and on top 4 pm; 5 mins on top and returned to BC 11 pm on 16th Oct. All well.


  Bertholet - 16 Sept 80

  New route on North Face; not Indian route or, he thinks Australian. Will use ridge as much as possible rather than gullies since ridges less dangerous. Australians accident was bad luck. Will probably be to East Ridge but will have to see when get to mountain.

  Leave 19 Sept by road to Dumre and thence Marshyandgi Khola to Braga.
  BC at about 4200-4300m; 10 days to BC.
  Max 3 camps above BC and 1 biv perhaps 2 bivs. 
  1 Sherpa above BC, Temba 
  Oxygen medical only
  Summit about 20 Oct

  If go over to East Ridge, will go up alpine style (no fixed ropes) and down other route.

  Hope getting everyone to top.


expid: MANA80301
peakid: MANA
year: 1980
route1: NE Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Hanns Schell
sponsor: Styrian-Austrian Expedition Manaslu 1980
countries: W Germany
bcdate: 1980-09-20
smtdate: 1980-10-14
termdate: 1980-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to high winds
campsites: BC(20/09,3830m),C1(22/09,4930m),C2(27/09,5800m),C3(11/10,6800m),xxx(14/10,7300m)
routememo:
  Schell - 4 Nov 80

  Highest point 7300m on 14th Oct and abandoned attempt on 19th; had been to C2 on 17th but wind too much and gave up hope. Last camp destroyed by ice avalanche; found this when went up to clear mountain on 21 Oct. Czech's camp also destroyed.

  C3 placed at 6500m on 5th Oct and moved up to 6800m on 11 Oct. High point reached 14 Oct by 3 Sherpas and Gruber, Hub, Kruettner and Schell; planned that day to put C4 at 7500-7600m and next day to summit.

  Czechs came direct to North Face and Austrians agreed they could climb together; they reached 6900m.


  Goeschl & Gruber - 27 Oct 80

  Gruber and Goeschel arrived KTM yesterday via Pokhara and Larkya La; left BC 18 Oct, Had snow fall nearly every day. Problem in higher camps and very strong winds from west.

  C2 at 5800m 
  C3 nearly 7000-6800m on 8 or 9 Oct near North Col and 7400m on way to C4 reached.
   
  Others in expedition were still trying and possibly reached summit but doubtful because of wind. Were to BC 26 or 27 Oct. No accidents.

  Tried on 11th on 12th and again on 14th to make C4 and go on up to summit but terrible winds defeated this. Hanns, Gruber and 2 Sherpas on 1st try reached 7250m. Hanns Schell, Dr. Kruettner, Karl Hub, Gruber and 2 Sherpas on 2nd attempt reached 7400m. 

  C4 was to be about 7500m or 7600m.


  Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 22 Oct 80

  Abandoned climb due bad weather; too cold and high wind. On 19 Oct reached 7390m. 14 Oct by Hanns Schell and others member and 1 Sherpa. Leave BC 22 Oct.

  BC 20 Sept 3850m
  C1 22 Sept 4930m
  C2 27 Sept 5800m


  Schell and Gruber - 4 Sept 80

  5 more members arrive KTM 13 Sept 
  Schell and Gruber leave KTM 7 Sept with baggage and Sherpas
  Establish BC about 20 Sept. 
  Route = NE Face (standard route)
  Karl Hub excellent skier, hopes to ski down
  BC at 4800-4900m - standard C1
  C1 5800m just below small icefall
  C2 6800m near North Col
  Dump/biv 7300m on plateau
  C3 7650m
  Summit 15 Oct
  3 Sherpas above BC; hope all will reach summit
  One is Ang Jangbu who climbed Everest 2/20/79
  No oxygen for climbing or sleeping


expid: GAN380301
peakid: GAN3
year: 1980
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Peter Molinari
sponsor: Joint Nepal-Swiss Ganesh III Expedition
countries: Nepal
approach: Trisuli->Chilime
bcdate: 1980-09-30
smtdate: 1980-10-16
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to bad ice conditions
campsites: BC(30/09,4650m),C1(10/10,5650m),xxx(16/10,6000m)
routememo:
  This mountain previously known as Ganesh II until re-surveyed in early 1990's.

  Molinari - 14 Nov 80

  Re photo: (dotted lines ... shows first route making which aborted because of constant falling seracs then tried to reach 6300m peak with plan to descend its ridge to Ganesh III's East Ridge (solid line route on photo)
   
  1st * Point 6300m is between Ganesh III (left)
       = prov. C1 - 5300m
  2nd  = final C1 - 5650m
  x    = high point of 6000-6100m below ice nose on Peak 6300m horizon
         reached on 16 Oct

  Turned back because ice too brittle to hold ice screws and else where there was deep snow made BC 30 Sept and final C1 on 10 Sept

  Molinari leaves Nepal in Feb - March 81 for another overseas post-permanent. 


  Molinari - 4 Nov 80

  Not successful. Reached 6000-6100m; difficult to find route. 1st attempt, all vertical rock face; route to peak between Ganesh III and Ganesh V and behind this peak about 6300m down 200m or so and up 1000m East Ridge.

  Not sure from BC whether could actually get to top via ridge which had very bad rotten ice conditions.

  Other route possibility threatened by deep-snow avalanche.
  Tried final route SE Face to East Ridge between Ganesh III and V.

  BC 30 Sept  4650m
  C1 10 Oct   5650m East Ridge to broad peak
  No C2
  High point 16 Oct by all 4 Swiss
  All well and all Swiss arrive KTM
  2 days ago - Nepal members reluctant to leave BC and left earlier.


  Molinari - 17 Sept 80

  All others members arrived KTM 15 Sept. Expedition with Dutli and Molinari wives, leave KTM in two groups, 1st one with porters by truck to Trisuli Bazaar on 21 Sept and 2nd one probably including Molinari, on 23rd to 25th Sept.

  Wives to be included as members of expedition, but they are not climbers and will go only to BC.


  Molinari - 17 Aug 80

  Route = SE Face from Glacier south of SE Ridge (new route)
  Nepalese say Sangeng Glacier is now in Tibet
  6 members = 4 Swiss and 2 Nepalese
  Leave KTM 20 Sept (Molinari returned to KTM 12 Sept)
  2 came from Switzerland (1 was on Numbur)

  To Trisuli Bazaar by road, thence to Salme, Bhairabkot, Tiru Danda, Mailung Pati. Will take 4 days to BC (loads will have gone to BC via Trisuli River to Syabrubesi, Thangjet, Chilimegaon, Jagesar Kund).

  BC at about 4500m on glacier south of SE Ridge.

  Probably then up S Ridge or SE Ridge to SE Face. Don't know exact route try to go straight up if weather and difficulties on mountain permit. So 3 or 4 bivouacs; no fixed camps expected. 

  No H-A porters on climb. 
  2 Sherpas members
  No oxygen for medical


expid: MANA80302
peakid: MANA
year: 1980
route1: NE Face
nation: Czechoslovakia
leaders: Margita Sterbova
sponsor: First Czech Ladies Expedition Himalaya 1980
approach: Trisuli Bazaar->Arughat->Samagaon
bcdate: 1980-09-26
smtdate: 1980-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to bad weather (high winds)
campsites: BC(26/09,3825m),C1(29/09,4915m),C2(01/10,5775m),C3(06/10,6500m),C4(10/10,6800m),xxx(17/10,7200m)
routememo:
  Sterbova - 10 Nov 80

  First camps established quickly with help of many local porters. After 10 Oct came bad weather, snow and wind and after 15 Oct very cold. C3 established after going down from C2; C3 about 6 Oct at 6500m. C4 about 10 Oct at 6800-6900m near North Col. Again bad weather for several days. From 15 Oct half of members waited in C2 for good weather but on summit ridge very cold, -30 degrees C and daily snow in evening. Route had been fixed up summit ridge by Austrians but Czechs could not go on ridge with 4-5 days good weather, but with cold and very bad winds not possible. Expedition cancelled 23 Oct.

  High point on ridge reached by Jana Koukalova, Marusincova and Sterba at 7200m on several days, on 22 Oct by 2 women and by leader's husband 5 days before with Rolf Wiederhofer; never tried to climb South Ridge. Had always waited to do NE Face and Schell readily agreed when met at BC.

  No accidents, frostbite, serious illness.


  Goeschl and Gruber - 27 Oct 80
  Austrian Manaslu Expedition

  Czech women went on same route as Austrains behind Austrians; used Austrians fixed rope.


  Sterbova - 8 Sept 80

  Czech ladies go to Manaslu. 
  South Ridge, same as Polish 1980 spring; if it is too hard we will change 
    the route to NE Face joining Austrians.
  Leave KTM tomorrow by road to Trisuli Bazaar-Arughat-Jakat-Samagaon
  13 to 15 days to BC at 4000m at foot of South Ridge
  5 camps above BC with C5 7500m
  4 Sherpas above including sirdar Ang Temba
  Oxygen for medical only
  Summit end of Oct


  Hroza, Himalchuli exp - 9 Sept 80

  Highest point reached by Czechoslovak woman (except Vera Komarkova on Annapurna I) is 7400m on Noshaq by Manaslu ladies leader. 

  Noshaq = 7492m in Hindu Kush soloed by Mrs Sterbova according to Cleare's book (point 1554) in 1977 from Kabul (mtn appears to be on Afghan-Pakistan border).


expid: TILI80301
peakid: TILI
year: 1980
route1: NE Spur-N Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Guido Bumann
sponsor: Swiss Tilicho Expedition 1980
ascent1: 4th,5th
countries: W Germany
bcdate: 1980-10-23
smtdate: 1980-10-30
campsites: BC(23/10,4870m),C1(28/10,6100m),Smt(30-31/10)
routememo:
  Bumann - 13 Nov 80

  BC 23 Oct - 4870m
  C1 28 Oct - 6100m
  Summit bit more than 7000m, maybe 7030m 
  Summit 30 Oct - Braun
                  Renner
  Summit 31 Oct - Zurfluh
                  Werner
                  Kappenberger
                  Krishneswar Rai

  Bumann returned from summit bid because not well.

  Route = NE Spur to North Ridge, so-called French route as French did 1st ascent of it in 1978. Better snow conditions especially the higher zones than French had - better packed. 

  No accidents, etc. Some altitude sickness because so quick. Did not know before coming to KTM that had to stop climb by end October.

  Steeper then expected: fixed 700-800m rope (on NE Ridge only). Had to use Japanese and Swiss fixed ropes which found on lowest part of North Ridge (which did not climb).

  Had porter problem getting to BC and were delayed; was festival time. 
  All arrived KTM yesterday.


  Bumann (leader) - 7 Oct 80

  Swiss Tilicho Expedition 1980
  Route = North Ridge, same as 1979 or spring 1980 expeditions (which had different 
   routes at lower part of mountain but North Ridge higher up).

  All 8 members now in KTM
  Hope to leave after 3 or 4 days depending on baggage from Delhi
  Perhaps leave in 2 parties
  12 days to BC at 4900-5000m, 20 days climbing.
  BC near Tilicho Lake between Lake and Mesokantu La
  2 camps above BC - C2 about 6500m
  No Sherpas above BC.
  Medical oxygen only 


expid: ANN180301
peakid: ANN1
year: 1980
route1: N Face (Dutch Rib) (to 6500m)
nation: W Germany
leaders: Erich Walch
sponsor: German Annapurna I Expedition 1980 (Group II)
countries: Austria
bcdate: 1980-10-04
smtdate: 1980-10-14
termdate: 1980-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to dangerous conditions
othersmts: Group I climbed Middle Summit of Annapurna I (ANNM-803-01) (1st ascent)
campsites: BC(04/10,4600m),C1(5100m),C2(5650m),xxx(14/10,6500m)
primid: ANNM80301
routememo:
  Middle summit 3 Oct (Group I)
    Greissl
    Boening
    Oberrauch

  Trinkle died in fall from C5 (Group I).    

  Group II reached 6500m 14 Oct on Dutch route.
                             

  Friedrich - 27 Oct 80

  Group II had no success; 6500m reached 14 Oct by Feier and Friedrich. They came down 15 Oct.

  Group II route too dangerous because of avalanches. Had to make own route above 6000m over to Dutch route; too difficult for Sherpas. Friedrich and Feier went 3 times to fix ropes and never made new C3. Party too small and too much danger. Great avalanche came 1 hour after other 3 members came down icefall after minor accident.


  Oberrauch & Wildemann - 18 Oct 80

  Bauer, Helmut Daum, Joerg Daum, Feier and Friedrich (and doctor) stayed on to try to climb while 5 others turned back with Group II on 11th. Did not try to climb at all beyond C2 where looked at wall. Group II had arrived at BC on 4 Oct where news came of Trinkle's death, frostbite and avalanches.
   
  5 were trying to go on up where Group I left BC but avalanche had destroyed fixed-ropes and they had job of replacing them.

  When Group I was at Jomsom, Group II's mailrunner came and said all Group II were in BC and wanted porters about 20 Oct. Group doesn't know why and whether they had gotten high.

  Wildemann has slight frostbite from 4 Oct when had to stand much of time while getting Greissl down. Oberrauch none at all.

  Trinkle fell while he and Wildermann were helping down Greissl. Maybe his crampon became loose or caught on his trousers: don't know what happened but Wildemann saw him fall. Trinkle came from C4 to above C5 on 3 Oct. He was very strong but on 4 Oct was tired.


  Greissl - 10 Oct 80

  Climbed unconquered middle summit 8050m at 19:00 hours; not to main summit - this was on plan.

  2nd group plans to go to main summit.

  Lufthansa to Munich and to specialists hospital there.
  Tried to go to main summit - got to 7900m then deep snow and was alone.


  Greissl ex-helicopter - 10 Oct 80

  Absolutely silly which can happen on any mountain. Wilfried Trinkle died 4 Oct at C5 at 7100m. Slipped at 8:00-8:30 am, fell on 30% slope (something happened to him); fell 400m vertically. Saw body but could not reach him.

  Summit:  Boening 
           Greissl
           Heinz Oberauch

  On 3 Oct in evening, not together, between 18:00 and 19:00 hours; stayed short time on top, went down in dark. "Perhaps tried too modern boots," plastic with thermal shoes but not really thermal and you feel nothing.
   
  Frostbite not so bad. Greissl nearly all too and fingers right hand. Boening with better boots one foot both hands. Started from C5 at 8:00 am. Stopped at 7500m in night. Oberrauch reached C5 2:00 am 4 Oct, Greissl and Boening at 6:00-7:00 am. Had no real biv and stopped several places really no sleep at all.

  Good but cold on summit.

  Henning Woehl came to help Greissl and Boening because the frostbite. 
  Group now in C2; reached BC about 4 Oct; all camps standing.


  Several members - 22 Sept 80

  Group II
  Leave KTM tomorrow and arrive BC 3 or 4 Oct. 
  Same route as Group I and same Sherpas.
  Summit end Oct = 4 weeks climbing.

  Have come as Group II because would be too many people altogether. Combining both groups and this saves time and money.


  Greissl & Boening - 2 Sept 80

  Bechler left KTM 26 Aug with 100 porters; all others leave today.
  Route = North Face, perhaps Dutch route, perhaps in upper part Spanish route to east. Definitely not French route which is too dangerous.

  BC established 12-15 Sept.

  5 or 6 camps above BC; 2 before face, 3 maybe 4 up ridge, highest 7400m.
  8 Sherpas above BC; sirdar is Pasang Temba.


expid: EVER80301
peakid: EVER
year: 1980
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Francesco Santon
sponsor: Italo-Nepalese Mountaineering Expedition to Mt. Everest 1980
countries: Austria, Czechoslovakia, Nepal, Thailand, Yugoslavia
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1980-08-27
smtdate: 1980-10-14
termdate: 1980-10-19
termnote: Abandoned at 8763m due to high winds
othersmts: Had permit for Lhotse (LHOT-803-01)
accidents: 1 Sherpa killed in Khumbu Icefall; Piana killed by avalanche above C2
campsites:
  BC(27/08,5400m),C1(02/09,6000m),C2(10/09,6400m),C3(17/09,7400m),C4(28/09,8000m),Dep(05/10,8500m),xxx(14/10,8763m)

routememo:
  Diemberger - 27 Oct 80

  Wind was terrible. We should have tried to go to summit earlier or later; later was no wind. Would have surprised many people in Europe if Diemberger and Messner had gone to Lhotse summit together.

  Mrs. Schmatz's body not seen.
   
  Everest expedition was too big and too diverse in abilities, too disorganised a mess. Highest point was South Summit. Diemberger could have gone to Lhotse summit several times, but Santon said no, first Everest is to be scaled.


  Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 17 Oct 80

  Abandoned; no attempt today because of weather (wind) shortage of time.
  1st since 1978 Everest unconquered 
  Today all retreated from C4, will not try Lhotse
  Are booked out of Nepal 22 or 23 Oct to reach Venice 24th 
  BC will be evacuated 19th
  Sergio Martini was on Col 5 nights and De Marchi 7 nights


  Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 16 Oct 80

  Diemberger reached col yesterday. Masucci did not go up. No summit attempt because of high mist on col. If weather better tomorrow, 4 will try for top. 

  Santon left BC today for KTM; De Marchi at C4 tonight.


  Shailendra Sharma, Tourism  15 Oct 80

  Yesterday De Marchi and Martini reached South Summit, exhausted and too late to be on summit, so returned to South Col in evening. Today Martini left Col for C2; De Marchi still at col, his 6th night there.

  Yesterday 2 Italians left C2 and reached C4 yesterday and will attempt tomorrow.

  Today Diemberger and Italian Masucci left for C4 and if reach C4 today will go to top tomorrow.

  Tomorrow's attempt by 
    1) Pietro Radin, 38, Vinceza employer
    2) De Marchi 
    3) Almo Giambisi, 42, employer, Canazie
    5) Kurt Diemberger
    6) Alessanro Masucci, 37, St. Michele al Tagliamento


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 13 Oct 80

  Today reached 8600m. Dorje Sherpa (H-A porter) went with the 3 and got same frostbite and one of reasons why turned back. Weather good today. Trio may try again today or tomorrow.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 13 Oct 80

  Summit team left C2 Thurs 9 Oct, arrivde C3.
  C3 to C4 on Friday
  No contact Saturday
  "Rescue" by Sunday
  2-3 Sherpas carrying oxygen and walkie-talkie; took oxygen to deposit camp 
  3 left Col for summit
  Thais gone back to Thailand 
  14 Italians have left expedition 
  14 Nepalese have left including co-leader only Nima Norbu as Nepalese member.


  Shailendra Sharma - 3 Sept 80

  Everest BC  27 Aug at 5400m
          C1  2 Sept at 6000m
  by 5 Italians and 6 Nepalese members including Ang Maya Sherpa
  Weather good, not much snow
  One Italian member came to KTM yesterday and returns to expedition tomorrow.


  Santon - 15 Aug 80

  Will see what strength of team actually is and then decide whether to make two teams, are for Lhotse and other for Everest, or how to handle permits for both mountains.

  Lhotse route = couloir on West Face

  Santon, Capt. Karki, Diemberger, 1 woman member and journalist go to Lukla by Puma tomorrow.


  Santon - 17 May 80

  Everest 1980 autumn
  30 Italian, 14 Nepalese (9 Sherpas) members including 4 Italian women and 3 Nepalese women. Led by Francesco Santon, 40

  South Col route
  C1 6100m
  C2 6400m
  C3 7200m
  C4 8000m
  C5 8500m

  These will be Nepalese climbing as members not as porters for others.

  Will take oxygen to all camps but try not to use, need not use; asking for Lhotse permit and send some members to its summit after Everest climbed.

  Arrive 29 July, leave KTM in 3 groups with 1st groups leave 4 Aug BC. 1st Sept start climb. All baggage now in Lukla.

  Kurt Diemberger arrive KTM 10 Aug and flies by helicopter.

  23 Sherpas and 2 sirdars: 
    Lhakpa, Yalung Kang  
    Ang Dorje, Everest, 1978 summit


  T. C. Pokharel - 20 Dec 78

  Italian Leader for 1980 Everest with Nepalese is F. Santon, Club Italiano, Sezione de Dolo, leader of 1977 autumn Italian expedition to Annapurna III and deputy leader 1976 Italian Dhaulagiri I expedition.

  Everest Sherpas:
    Sirdars Lhakpa, Ang Dorje
    HA Sherpas: 23


  T. C. Pokharel - 5 Dec 78

  NMA have decided to accept Italian Alpine Club, Rane as climbers on Everest with Nepalese Team Aut 1980. Have accepted in principle, but await Italians written agreement to terms before making announcement.
   
  South Col route. Nepal Leader not yet chosen; probably 10 Nepalese and 20 Italians. Thinks Italian leader is Renato Moro.


expid: CHRE80301
peakid: CHRE
year: 1980
route1: SE Ridge-E Smt
nation: Italy
leaders: Oliviero Frachey
sponsor: Churen Himal 1980 - Italian Expedition
bcdate: 1980-10-13
smtdate: 1980-10-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to cold weather
campsites: BC(13/10,4150m),C1(15/10,4800m),C2(17/10,5350m),C3(19/10,6050m),C4(21/10,6450m),xxx(26/10,7000m)
routememo:
  Frachey - 6 Nov 80

  Too much snow and cold. After C4 decided very cold and all down. Then summit attempt by Luciano Colli and Favre on 26 Oct. Reached 7000-7050m, then a little frostbite from cold and go to C4 and next day to C2. Want to send up another team to make C5, but permit expired 31 Oct and now too late; was -37 degree C temperature.
   
  4 members frostbite but not serious - no accidents.

  BC - 4150m - 13 Oct
  C1 - 4800m - 15 Oct
  C2 - 5350m - 17 Oct
  C3 - 6050m - 19 Oct
  C4 - 6450m - 21 Oct

  Route was SE Ridge to East Peak (Japanese route); this route quicker than West Ridge originally planned to climb.


  Frachey via Simonetti - 30 Sept 80

  Route = West Ridge, same as 1969 Italian
  If conditions not good, then will try Central Peak from southwest. 
  Leave 2 Oct, fly to Pokhara and 3 Oct leave Pokhara for 15 days to BC.
  20 days to try to climb peak and acclimatization. 
  BC above 4500m, 3 days north of Gurjikhani. 
  5 camps if climb West Ridge; if Central Peak, don't know how many camps.
  6 Sherpas above BC
  Oxygen medical only


expid: PUMO80302
peakid: PUMO
year: 1980
route1: SE Face (to 5850m)
route2: S Face Spur (to 6600m)
nation: Italy
leaders: Tony Klingendrath
sponsor: Italian Pumori Expedition
bcdate: 1980-10-12
smtdate: 1980-10-25
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to avalanching
campsites: BC(12/10),C1(15/10,5850),xxx(25/10,6600m)
routememo:
  Klingendrath - 1 Nov 80

  BC established at 12 Oct. Tried first direct route and put 1 camp 5850m and day after 3 friends decided to return to Italy (1 sick, others don't feel good and other problems), so leaves only Giberna and Klingendrath for SE Face.

  After 2 days then go up again, but tent destroyed by lot of snow in previous 2 days. Could not find tent and supplies, so returned to BC.

  Decided to try another route without fixed rope in pure alpine-style. Tried snow spur on East Face, not normal route however. Climbed free climbing 45 to 60 degrees slope 24 Oct and biv about 6200m. 25 Oct steeper and roped up, alternating lead, expect reach top in 2 days. At 6600m avalanche of powder snow and all came away: fell 20m with avalanche. Tony covered with snow very near crevasse and wall if Tony hadn't stopped at edge of crevasse, both 1000m further down. Other fell 30m and stopped by rope to Tony and felt pain in his back. Other could not climb back up to Tony because pain and deep snow and thought Tony dead in crevasses, so descended alone. Tony after 2 hours able get out of avalanche snow and descend. Both reached BC: Giberna at 7:00 pm and Tony at 9:00 pm. Climb finished.


  Klingendrath - 27 Sept 80

  Route = South Face direct, not same as French 1972 which was 1/2 on face on 
    East or SE Ridge.
  BC at Gorak Shep.
  No fixed camps, little fixed rope and no Sherpas above BC.
  Leave KTM 2 or 3 Oct by air to Lukla (they hope) and are week to BC.
  From BC to top and back = 20 days; including acclimatization = 25 days.


expid: DHA180302
peakid: DHA1
year: 1980
route1: SW Pillar
nation: France
leaders: Jean Coudray
sponsor: French Dhaulagiri Expedition
approach: Pokhara->Myagdi Khola
bcdate: 1980-09-13
smtdate: 1980-10-23
termdate: 1980-10-28
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to high winds and difficult overhanging pillar
campsites:
  BC(13/09,3700m),ABC(15/09,5050m),C1(17/09,5600m),C2(23/09,6000m),C3(25/09,6400m),C4(30/09,6800m),Biv(21/10,7300m),xxx(23/10,7500m)

routememo:
  Coudray - 3 Nov 80

  15 days climbing on pillar between 30 Sept and 21 Oct because very difficult ice and rock, some overhang.

  600m fixed ropes from low BC for Sherpa porters to ABC.
  Fixed ropes 2500m from ABC to biv camp at 7300m.
  Top of pillar = 7300m also.
   
  High point 7500m by Beghin and Muller (above biv) on 23 Oct; from here to summit about 3 km.

  Not to summit because winds and overhanging pillar; climb too difficult to carry loads to supply summit push.

  Used no oxygen while climbing; feet very old cold as result (slight frostbite) but did not feel lost of strength or wits as result.


  Salomez and Rayand

  Success on pillar, very very steep, very difficult, but not possible to carry tents, etc; for summit attempt reached C5 7600m; for French, pillar success is enough; climbing reached 23 Oct top pillar.

  3500m fixed rope on pillar which over 6000m; top pillar reached by Beghin, Coudray, Muller, Renaud, Salomez at different times.
  23 Oct - Beghin, Muller and Salomez
  24 Oct - Coudray and Renaud
  One day in C4
  Renaud some frostbite in toes, so helicopter evacuation.
  Salomez Ok
  Others left BC 28 Oct, here after 1 week


  Coudray - 2 Sept 80

  Same pillar as 1978, we came back now for success.

  Pillar is changing; one of most difficult technically in world between 7000m to 8000m; this route is I think is again another kind of difficulty: very high altitude and technically difficult; a step or stride forward in this altitude with difficulty.

  One member started approach march from Pokhara 23 Aug with 80 porters. 14 days to Myagdi Khola. Last BC at 3600m from which expedition will use as dump and make BC for climb where had C1 in 1978 at 5200m; he begins to transport baggage to new BC and make fixed rope between the two and perhaps has time to begin to climb on route above new BC to new C1 at previous C2.

  C2 at old C3 at 6100m
  C3 at 6500m
  In 1978 was too long between 6100m to 7000m, too exhausting.
  C4 just at foot of last part of pillar at 7000m biv on wall with hammock while 
     making route and going up.
  C5 about 7600m

  Main party leave KTM 3 Sept and Pokhara by road (way to Bhairava) and then walk 6-8 days to dump camp with porters carrying only 15 kg. Will acclimatize at new BC between 12 and 15 Sept. C1 and then back down after this first period will not return to C1 and to anxiously low camp except when tired or in bad weather. 5 Sherpas to carry the food up as the members move up.

  Will have 3 weeks advance on 1978 expedition because have arrived earlier and BC is higher and not such long distance from C1. Also ropes are on the route to base of last steep face and can use these at first; will change rope and hammer pitons in more securely without having to carry pitons.

  Think will arrive 1978 high-point end of Sept, one month earlier than in 1978. This leaves 15 days to reach summit before head winds begin to arrive. Plan to reach summit 15 Oct.
   
  No oxygen for climbing or sleeping; have only medical bottles, but might use for climb if absolutely necessary. Now we know we can go without oxygen even in technical difficulties.


expid: EVER80201
peakid: EVER
year: 1980
route1: N Col-N Ridge-N Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Reinhold Messner
ascent1: 41st
countries: Canada
approach: Lhasa->Rongbuk
bcdate: 1980-07-04
smtdate: 1980-08-20
smttime: 1300
termdate: 1980-08-29
campsites: BC(04/07,5100m),ABC(14/07,6500m),Biv1(18/08,7800m),Biv2(19/08,8200m),Smt(20/08),Biv3(20/08,8200m)
achievment: 1st solo ascent
routememo:
  Messner - 17 Sept 80

  Everest solo:
  All times = Peking times (CST) = 2:15 hours later than Nepal time (NST)

  18th Aug 80: 2 hours to North Col from 6500m. Had been to Col before and then to 7800m, arrived 3:00 pm. Had left 5:00 am from 6500m. Fell into crevasse to Col 8m to bridge.

  19th: 7800m up 100m and then traversed to right. Biv at 8200m with very small 16 kg tent (too small), special titanium ice axe and crampons, sleeping bag 1 kg mattress (insulite), food, cooker, gas, camera and film, extra 1 pair socks; carried from 7800m about 13 kg. Started 9:00 am - traversed until 150m before Great Couloir at 8200m about 3:00 pm.

  20th: left everything except camera ice axe and crampons at 8200m at 8:00 am (was no sun but was light). Went into Great Couloir and up at about 8000m (1 hour). Quite steep but all snow. After that to ridge of another couloir. Up left of this ridge, not steep, covered with quite good dry snow mostly. Was quite warm and snow was melting but not sticking. On summit 3:15 or 3:20 pm (1:00 pm NST). Could see tripod when was only 30m from it, which not on summit. Very tired. Stayed there in cloudy weather with some blue sky briefly till 4:00 pm. Was even more exhausted than in 1978. On summit did not have sense of someone else there as did have slightly lower. To 8200m biv in 2 hours.
   
  21st: left everything at 8200m about 7:30 am except spare glasses, ice axes and camera, crampons. Went little down Great Couloir and then diagonally to right to North Col, so tired it was risky to sit down because might not get up. Also concerned about crevasse below North Col. So went down from Col by different route. Arrived at 6500m at 11:00 am. Had been disoriented and came down on side of parts little last bit.


  Messner - 23 Aug 80

  Letter to Bobby Chettri:

  Have just received Chinese permit for monsoon and Sept-Nov from Chinese side; will keep trying until succeed or time runs out. Will not come to Everest from Nepal side. If finished on Everest in time, will come to Lhotse.


expid: THAM80101
peakid: THAM
year: 1980
route1: N Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Koji Okano
sponsor: Japanese on Tamserku - Sangaku Doshikai Tamserku Expedition
ascent1: 3rd
bcdate: 1980-03-25
smtdate: 1980-04-27
smttime: 1601
campsites: BC(25/03,3990m),C1(02/04,5000m),Biv1(10/04,5700m),Biv2(18/04,6100m),Smt(27/04)
routememo:
  Okano & Hayama - 4 May 80

  2 arrive KTM today, others when can get flight from SYB (Shyangboche).
  No frostbite, no accident and no serious illness.
  ABC 2 April 5000m 
  No more camps 

  5700m biv site 10 April
  6100m biv site 18 April

  Climbed in pairs: one pair making route, other moving loads; then next day changed over.

  Summit 27 April by Okano and Masunaga, both who were on Thamserku last year. Masunaga on top 4:01 pm and Okano at 4:12 pm and biv that night on summit because so very steep, not possible reach 2nd bivouac and because wanted to stay there. Other 2 not to top because Dr Hayama not technically competent enough and Takehara tired out. Only 2 ice axes left after 2 broken making route. If 2 follow others takes more time.

  More time to reach summit from start of climbing because had to wait for this when at least 2 members in good condition. Route not so difficult, says leader "Doug Scott can do it in 1 week," but Hayama thought "very steep everywhere."


  Okano - 13 March 80

  All in KTM now: 3 climbers and 1 doctor.
  Leave KTM 17 March by air maybe to SYB.
  Same route as 1978; maybe by camps same also with only bivouac above C1. 
  No Sherpas above BC.
  BC -> summit 25 days.


expid: KANG80101
peakid: KANG
year: 1980
route1: N Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Masatsugu Konishi
sponsor: Sangaku Doshikai Kangchenjunga Expedition 1980
ascent1: 5th,7th
bcdate: 1980-03-20
smtdate: 1980-05-14
smttime: 1628
termdate: 1980-05-25
campsites: BC(20/03,5050m),C1(01/04,5800m),C2(07/04,6500m),C3(17/04,7300m),C4(30/04,7900m),Smt(14,17/05)
achievment: 1st ascent of 8000er without oxygen by Japanese
routememo:
  Sakashita - 8 June 80

  2 weeks from C4 to top for acclimatization because had no oxygen, otherwise dangerous to go above 8000m. 3 times acclimatized at 8000m. Followed route as planned (see photo in leaflet). Most difficult part of route technically was from 1st to 2nd ice fields. mixed rock and ice. 

  No accidents, serious illness or serious frostbite.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 1 June 80

  Summit 17 May
    Motomu Ohmiya, born 49, salesman, Tokyo
    Toshitaka Sakano, born 44, doctor, Tokyo
    Pemba Tsering, 36, Namche [Thamo?]
    Dawa Norbu, 25

  On top 5:30 pm and returned to last camp 10:00 pm; started 3:30 am. Masatsugu Konishi, leader, started out with them from last camp at 8000m, but did not reach top because of his health and returned to C4 [went to 8380m].


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 21 May 80

  North Face Sangaku Doshikai Alpine Club
  Summit 14 May by
    1) Ryoichi Fukada, 37 Tokyo, engineer
    2) Haruichi Kawamura, 32, salesman, Tokyo
    3) Naoe Sakashita, mountaineer, 33, Tokyo
    4) Shomi Suzuki, 26, Kamakura City, draftmen
    5) Ang Phurba, 33, Khumjung

  Started from assault camp at 8000m at 5:00 am; reached top 4:28 pm; all without oxygen.

  2nd ascent party planned to climb 17 May:
    1) Matasugu Konishi, leader, 41, salesman, Tokyo
    2) Motomu Ohmiya, 30, salesman, Tokyo
    3) Toshitaka Sakano, 35, medical doctor, Tokyo
    4) Pemba Tsering, 36, Namche

  No news of 1st party's return or 2nd party's attempt.


  Sakashita - 5 Feb 80

  All 7 climbers in KTM and reporter and 2 TV cameraman; 1 cameraman [Akutsu] hopes go above 8000m.

  Leave KTM 11 Feb by 1 bus and 2 trucks all together to Dharan. Leave Dharan 14 Feb and reach BC (after acclimatization before BC) end of March. Arrive Ghunsa 28 Feb. 3 days arranging, acclimatization climbing, 20-22 days acclimatization, 3 days to BC.

  BC at Pangpema 5050m
  ABC at C2
  5500m dump
  C4 highest camp, 7900m-8000m, maybe only snow cave and not tents.
  C1, C2 and C3 will be fixed camps with tents.

  Route more direct up North Face then Scott's; Scotts went to North Col and thence ridge; Japanese not to ridge at all.

  No oxygen for climbing or sleeping; only 6 bottles for medical, except high cameraman has 10 bottles and will use above 7500m or higher depending on his condition.

  11 HA Sherpas including sirdar Ang Phurba (Scott's Sherpa).

  Summit early May. 5 weeks climbing, depends on weather and members condition. Will have acclimatized to 6500m before reaching BC.


expid: NUMB80101
peakid: NUMB
year: 1980
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Senkichi Kitaoka
sponsor: Zao Alpine Club Numbur Expedition
approach: Lukla
bcdate: 1980-04-03
smtdate: 1980-04-17
termdate: 1980-04-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6595m due to difficult knife-edge ridge
campsites: BC(03/04,4700m),C1(07/04,5150m),C2(10/04,6020m),C3(17/04,6595m),xxx(17/04,6595m)
routememo:
  Re Japan 1980 Spring attempt on Numbur from north; see my notes on Swiss 1981 autumn Numbur expedition's leader's (Bumann's) discussion of routes 8 Nov 81.

  Ban & Watatsuma - 28 April 80

  No climbing above C3. Beyond C3 knife-edge ridge which very difficult; icefall and crevasse if traversed which very dangerous. This NW Ridge not possible and Sherpa sirdar said more difficult than Everest.

  C3 reached by Ban, Hirama, Izumikawa, Kayaba and Watatsuma = 5 members
  18 April abandoned climb and all descended and arrived KTM 24 April
  No accident frostbite or illness. Don't know whether SW Ridge is possible.

  Expedition's camp as follows:
  BC - 3 April - 4700m
  C1 - 7 April - 5150m
  C2 -10 April - 6020m
  C3 -17 April - 6595m


  Takashi, et al - 26 March 80

  Met LO and Sherpas of 1963 expedition and they say no success. Also no photo from summit, but members claim success. But Oishi met member in Japan and member could give no details so Oishi does not believe him.

  Route = NW Ridge (new route)
  Lukla 5 days to BC.
   
  NW Lumding Kharka at about 4000m near Tsho Og lake at east end of Lumding Glacier. Route up Glacier and thence of Numbur and up near point 6656m and finally up NW Ridge.

  Hope leave KTM 27 March and Lukla same day. Reach BC 1 or 2 April
  4 camps above BC with highest at about 6500m 
  Most difficult part between C3 and C4 (6000-6500m) and to summit; last part 
    knife ridge.
  37 days BC to top to BC; summit 1st week May
  4 Sherpas above BC including sirdar Ang Phurba
  No oxygen for climbing


expid: GAN280101
peakid: GAN2
year: 1980
route1: W Face-S Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yoichiro Arai
sponsor: Shinshu University Joint Expedition to Mt. Ganesh II
countries: Nepal
approach: Yaru Khola
bcdate: 1980-03-28
smtdate: 1980-05-07
termdate: 1980-05-10
termnote: Abandoned at 6750m due to steep route and bad weather
campsites:
  BC(28/03,4050m),C1(04/04,4700m),C2(11/04,5200m),C3(17/04,5800m),C4(03/05,6300m),C5(06/05,6600m),xxx(07/05,6750m)

routememo:
  This mountain previously known as Ganesh III until re-surveyed in early 1990's.

  Fukishima & Nakada - 20 May 80

  C4 6300m  3 May
  C5 6600m  6 May

  Maximum altitude 6750m, a little snow peak by Fukishima, Yamamoto and Ang Phuri on 7 May; climbed to see route. C5 on ridge and above 6750m ridge steep knife-edge rock, looked very difficult. If we are going to get summit, 3 or 4 days more to make route. Had not enough pitans for fixing ropes on this part; had already climbed face needing many pitons.

  Route = West Face of South Ridge to South Ridge

  Approached via Yaru Khola to glacier which was long and difficult, then up big rock face which is West Face of South Ridge. C5 was only camp on this ridge; other camps on glacier or face took long time to reach ridge and little food left.

  8 May decided no more going up.
  2 Sherpas sick; 1 got toothache and left expedition 
  No accidents or frostbite


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 16 May 80

  Abandoned 8 May after C4 3 May 6300m, C5 after 6 May 6600m.
  Above C5 steep slope to summit and weather bad and decided to stop 8 May.
  Left BC 10 May, arrive KTM 17 May.
  All are well.


  Otsu - 6 May 80

  C3 established 5800m 3 weeks ago.
  By end of April should have summit, they planned.


  Nakada - 27 Feb 80

  6 persons in KTM. 2 more arrive 2 March. Leave KTM 10 March by road to Trisuli. Caravan on 10 days march via Buri Gandaki to Yaru Khola on west side of Ganeshes to BC on Yaru Khola at about 3800m, then to col south of Ganesh II and South Ridge of Ganesh II.

  4 above BC with C4 at 6500m
  South Ridge only possible route; north ridges impossible
  Arrive BC 22 or 23 March start climb 25-27 March; summit 5 May
  KTM return 15 May
  No HA Sherpas; this is joint expedition 
  No oxygen


expid: LAMJ80101
peakid: LAMJ
year: 1980
route1: N Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hitoshi Hagiwara
sponsor: Hosei University Lamjung Himal Expedition 1980
ascent1: 9th
approach: Dumre
bcdate: 1980-04-05
smtdate: 1980-05-13
smttime: 1150
termdate: 1980-05-18
campsites: BC(05/04,3800m),C1(09/04,4600m),C2(14/04,5280m),C3(26/04,5700m),C4(12/05,6400m),Smt(13/05)
accidents: 1 member fell 100m in snow avalanche but not seriously hurt
routememo:
  Lamjung members - 25 May 80

  C3 26 April
  C4 12 May
  Summit 13 May by Kazusa, Nishimura and Zambu [Norbu Jangbu]
  Route = North Ridge (new route)

  1 member fell 100m in snow avalanche but not seriously hurt; no other accidents, no frostbite. No more on top because food running out, snowfall 5-6 days. All arrived KTM yesterday and leader left yesterday.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 18 May 80

  Satoshi Nishimura, 24, student Tokyo
  Kikuo Kazusa, 31, Tokyo
  Zambu Sherpa, 27 [Norbu Jangbu]

  reached summit 13 May at 11:50. On top 1 hour and planted flags of Japan, Nepal and Hosei University. Started from C4 6400m at 6:00 am and returned to same camp at 3:00 pm. No more attempts because all members tired, but in good health.

  Summiters in BC will be in BC 15 May and leave BC May 18 May, arrive KTM 25 May. Route from C3 (5700m) to C4 (steep and hazardous), very difficult but above C4 easy.


  Ranjan Bhattacharya - 5 May 80

  Lamjung member Ueno left expedition early because he injured his leg; is in KTM and will stay here until rest of expediiton arrives.


  Kazusa & Hagiwara - 13 March 80

  Route = North Ridge (new route)
  Approach via Marshyangdi to Chame and Bhratang to BC at 4200m
  4 camps above BC 
  Many avalanches; snow breaks every day; most match patterns from BC.

  All but 1 member in KTM; deputy Leader in Bangkok with baggage; wait for baggage road to Dumre and caravan thence to Bhratang 8 days. Bhratang to BC 2 days but 8-10 days to move all loads.
  40 days climbing mountain.

  3 Sherpas above BC including sirdar Sange Sherpa. 
  1 Sherpa is woman Ang Rita who will go to Everest in autumn 1980. 
  Oxygen medical only


expid: KGUR80101
peakid: KGUR
year: 1980
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Shozo Kikuchi
sponsor: Hirosaki Kang Guru Peak Expedition
approach: Pokhara->Marshyangdi River->Thanje
bcdate: 1980-03-20
smtdate: 1980-04-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to deep snow and shortage of rope
campsites: BC(20/03,4500m),C1(28/03,5500m),C2(15/04,5600m),C3(17/04,6550m),xxx(18/04,6600m)
routememo:
  Kikuchi - 1 May 80

  All climbing on NE Ridge
  C2 at 5600m 15 April
  C3 at 6550m 17 April

  Climbing stopped 19 April much snow and not enough equipment like rope; safety first is duty. Kokubu, Kozo Kudo and Hisao Kudo got above C3, but 50 metres only because much snow and crevasse. On 18 April East Face very dangerous and difficult because standing icefall, winds and crevasse zone so no climbing on face at all; all climbing on NE Ridge.

  No accidents, frostbite, illness.

  Put in 2000m fixed rope and needed 1000m because crevasse zone.

  Pre-monsoon difficult, post-monsoon easy so request again Kang Guru post-monsoon via same route.


  Kikuchi - 24 Feb 80

  All arrive KTM 1 week ago; leave 28 Feb by road to Pokhara.
  Route = East Face or NE Ridge; first try East Face which is new route. 
  Caravan from Pokhara go northeast to Marshyangdi River to Thanje; then to last 
    village Kharje (Kharelu) to BC at 4000-4500m. 2 weeks to BC.
  3 or 4 camps above BC; summit mid April.
  No Sherpas above BC
  No oxygen except medical


expid: GAN580101
peakid: GAN5
year: 1980
route1: NE Ridge-N Face-NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yoshio Nagao
sponsor: Jikei Univ of Medicine & Nepal Joint Expedition to Ganesh
ascent1: 1st,2nd
countries: Nepal
approach: Trisuli->Chilime Khola->Sangeng Glacier (BC)
bcdate: 1980-03-22
smtdate: 1980-04-21
smttime: 1152
termdate: 1980-04-26
campsites: BC(22/03,3750m),C1(26/03,4350m),C2(31/03,4950m),C3(14/04,5730m),C4(20/04,6300m),Smt(21-22/04)
routememo:
  Saito & Komori - 1 May 80

  Most difficult part = C2 to C3 ice face, difficult cutting steps in ice
  No accidents frostbite or illness, very happy climbing
  No attempt on Ganesh II or any other peak
  Other 5 members trekking Gosainkund; arrive KTM 5 May
  Route = NE Ridge across N Face (a snow face) to NW Ridge as per sketch.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma Tourism - 1 May 80

  Ganesh V all Japanese climbed

  2nd summit success on 22 April by:
  1) Norimasa Okabe
  2) Kinichi Hamagichi, 1941, pathologist, Tokyo
  3) Takeshi Shinohara, 1948, Ichikawa, Chiba
  4) Saburo Saito, 1957 
  5) Zimba Zangbu
  6) Pemba Tsering
  7) Ang Tsering Dorje
  8) Dorje

  Went to summit at 9:00 [8:45] from C4 on north side. On top 1-1/2 hour, placed photos of Their Magesties and Japan and Nepal flags; each party sang their country's national anthem. All okay. Left BC 26 April.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma - 25 April 80

  C2 31 March 4950m
  C3 14 April 5730m
  C4 20 April 6250m

  Summit via North Face on 21 April at 11:52 am and stayed 40 minutes, took photos, planted flags of Japanese Nepal and Jikei University by:

  1) Tatsumi Sasaki, 1949 born, physician, Tokyo
  2) Akihiko Kamori, 1958 born, physician, Tokyo
  3) Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa, 28, Khumjung
  4) Nima Tenzing, 34, Khumjung
  5) Nima Nuru, 29, Pangboche

  Plans 2nd attack on 22 April and leave BC 26 April. Thus no attack on Ganesh II almost fine except weather. All members well.


  Nagao & Hamaguchi - 4 March 80

  Ganesh V & II
  All members now in KTM, arrived yesterday 
  Leave 7 March by road to Trisuli
  1st attack Ganesh V

  Approach route: Trisuli Bazaar, Trisuli River, Bhote Kosi to Syabrubesi, west via Chilime Khola which goes north to border and then along border to Sangeng Glacier.

  BC at 4500m on Sangeng Glacier
  route on Ganesh V = North Ridge - half is rock, half snow and ice.
  4 (or 5) camps above BC with highest at about 6600m at top of hanging glacier.
  Leave Trisuli Bazaar 8 March with 150 porters; 14 days to BC.
  Summit about end of April 
  5 Sherpas above BC including 2 Nepalese members including Lhakpa Dorje.
  Oxygen only for sleeping at C4.

  Most difficult part of Ganesh V climb and very dangerous is hanging snow in glacier 5900-6600m with many crevasses. If cannot climb Ganesh V and have enough time will try Ganesh II. Would move BC further up Sangeng Glacier and pretty much repeat 1979 autumn route up North Face with 4 camps on Ganesh II.


expid: MANA80101
peakid: MANA
year: 1980
route1: NE Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee In-Jung
sponsor: 1980 Korean Manaslu Expedition
ascent1: 9th
bcdate: 1980-03-19
smtdate: 1980-04-28
smttime: 1330
campsites:
  BC(19/03,3760m),C1(23/03,4950m),C2(26/03,5850m),C3(10/04,6250m),C4(19/04,6900m),C5(22/04,7430m),Smt(28/04)

routememo:
  5 members - 13 May 80

  23 April one summit attempt from C5 but wind defeated them. Lee Jong-Ryang + 2 Sherpas could not go up but down only; C5 was snowhole.

  27 April 2nd summit attempt reached 7600m, then snow and strong wind so returned to C5. 

  28 April 3rd attempt Seo Dong-Hwan + 2 Sherpas was successful. Wind and snow; summiter Seo Dong-Hwan has little frostbite in his fingers.
   
  Were on NE Face route, mostly same as Japanese-Iran except between C4 and C5 where Koreans went to right side of snow slab whereas Japanese-Iran went to left side.

  Used oxygen only above C5 on 27 and 28 April and sleeping at C5 23 April.


  Prechandra Shrestha, Tourism - 4 May 80

  Summit 28 April 9:30 am. Started from C5 at 8:30 (altitude not given). 20 minutes on summit where placed Korea and Nepal flags and descended to C4.

  Summiters:
    1) Seo Dong-Hwan, born 1953, businessman, Seoul
    2) Ang Pasang
    3) Ang Zawa

  27 April was bad weather which defeated 1st attempt and stayed night at C5. No mention of further attempts or abandoned.


  Lee In-Jung - 2 March 80

  Same route as couloir Korean expedition, "we must try again." Deputy leader Lee only member to have come to Manaslu before.

  Leave KTM 5 March by road to Trisuli
  Arrive BC after 11 days = 16 March with about 200 porters.

  2 sirdars:
    Mingma Tenzing BC to C2
    Pasang Norbu to C5

  4 or 5 Sherpas climbing high; summit 20-25 April.


  Lee Young-Jin - 26 Feb 80

  Korean Manaslu: All members in KTM; leave 5-10 March by road to Trisuli and
    then 12 days march to BC.
  Same route as earlier Koreans expedition: NE Face
  BC about 3800m 
  5 camps above base camp with C5 at about 7800m
  Use oxygen from C5
  7 Sherpas with expedition, but how many will go high not certain: about 6
  Sirdar = Mingma Tenzing who stays BC or ABC
  All members South Koreans


expid: MANA80102
peakid: MANA
year: 1980
route1: S Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Janusz Ferenski
sponsor: Wroclaw Himalaya Expedition Manaslu 1980
bcdate: 1980-04-05
smtdate: 1980-04-29
termdate: 1980-05-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6550m due to dangerous avalanche conditions
campsites: BC(05/04,4200m),C1(07/04,4900m),C2(13/04,5900m),xxx(29/04,6550m)
routememo:
  Malinowski - 25 May 80

  C2 on SE Face of South Ridge of Manaslu (Ridge between Peak 29 and Manaslu) at 5700m. This face has couloir which tried to climb up and put C3 on ridge at about 6900m -7000m. Made 800m fixed rope up face which had rock and snow avalanches. Reached maximum altitude 6550m on 29 April were in BC 43 days with only 2 days no snow. Usually by noon for 3-5 hours and waist deep snow when trying climb face. Face not technically difficult, 3-4 days alpine difficulty.

  C2 completely covered with snow avalanche one night when 4 men in it; another night 3 times had to spend all night removing 1-1/2m snow from tent. 

  1 May went down to BC and 9 days no chance to go up in heavy snow. 13 May started up again hoping to make C3 on ridge at about 6900-7000m and thence alpine-style to summit. Took 7 hours in C2 area to find tents in snow and all that night snowed and during day had been avalanche so decided much too dangerous with snow and avalanches. Had good luck with no accidents or serious frostbite.

  Serac avalanche came 7 km down from another side (East Face) with such wind it broke tents at BC on 24 April. 17 May decided go down and stop climb. Maximum altitude 29 April reached by Kurczab, Smieszko, Bebak and Pemba Lama Sherpa.


  Ferenski - 21 March 80

  South Ridge = new route
  From Pungen Glacier to South Col between Peak 29 and Manaslu 6900m.
  Approach via Buri Gandaki, not to Trisuli Bazaar. 
  9 days to BC at 4000-4500m on glacier; site not sure since this 1st 
    expedition here.
  4 or 5 camps - col camp maybe C3, then C4 7500m-7600m and perhaps finally a biv 
    before summit.
  2 Sherpas above include 1 sirdar Rinzi Sherpa and Pemba
  Oxygen medical only (6 bottles)
  Most difficult parts: 600m below Col and 7500m and above rock 
  2000-2500m fixed rope on the 2 difficult parts
  Advance party (3 members) leave KTM Sunday or Monday 
  Advance party to find BC location; deputy Leader with advance party


expid: EVER80102
peakid: EVER
year: 1980
route1: S Pillar-SE Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Andrzej Zawada
sponsor: Polish Mt. Everest Expedition 1980
ascent1: 40th
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1980-03-25
smtdate: 1980-05-19
smttime: 1600
termdate: 1980-05-24
campsites: BC(25/03,5360m),C1(6050m),C2(6500m),C3(07/04,7200m),C4(28/04,8050m),C5(14/05,8300m),Smt(19/05)
routememo:
  Zawada, Press conf - 3 June 80

  Main problem in winter was time was very short and thus atmosphere very nervous. Winter very low temperature and strong winds created difficult climbing. In spring more moderate temperature. Sometimes at noon in Cwm so hot that could go without shirts, so started in Icefall at 4:00 or 5:00 am. In spring he was ready always sure would succeed. Only in last part atmosphere not so cool and quiet because especially in May; nearly every day it snowed and this created very serious avalanche danger. In last days of May swept almost Lhotse C4 which Zamada saw from Poles C3.

  During expedition Zawada promised all members would have chance to climb to Everest summit, but this promise broken in very difficult decision for him. After 2 members got to top, he decided to stop climbing because Poles C5 had been planned for nearly at South Summit at 8500m, but because of technical difficulties with rock band it was placed at 8300m in not very safe place with danger of snow avalanche.

  Zawada chose for summit attack the two strongest members who during whole expedition planned to go top without oxygen but leader decided they should use oxygen above C5 because of deep snow. These 2 didn't like decision but used oxygen. Took them 17 hours from C5 to top and back to C5 in which much longer than winter summiters took.
   
  Left C5 5:00 am with oxygen; 12:30 at South Summit and oxygen finished; returned C5 but all night fighting snow avalanche. This 17 hours of climbing was warning of risks to further summit attacks; hence Zawada's decision not to send more to summit a very unpopular decision. Pillar much more safe than standard route on Everest; standard route is via dangerous avalanche Lhotse face, pillar is shortest route so far done on Everest: standard route requires one week more. Also wind on South Col very strong (but also on pillar too).

  Pillar 45-50 degrees except rock barrier which is steeper. Lhotse Face about 45 degrees also, but from South Col to summit not very steep whereas pillar rather steep all the way. Pillar technical difficulty not great.

  In summit winter expedition left thermometer and crucifix in memory of one who died on Lhotse Face in 1974 (given by his mother) and rosary left by a 1980 Feb summiter. All these were found by Basque summiter on 14 May: Sherpa took the thermometer and Basque took crucifix, rosary and emblem of Winter expedition in tube of tripod.

  Basque left 2 colourful banners flags of ETA and anti-nuclear; these taken by Poles. Poles left Poland flag, 1 small empty bottle of Ambassador whisky (bottle in tube of tripod). Basque and Poles found nothing from Japanese on summit or nothing taken by Japanese; no trace of their having been on top. Polish themometer read -35 degrees centrigrade when Martin read it, but did not note minimum temperature. Japanese must show photos on top with Polish thermometer and other items.

  Pillar expedition made easier by winter expedition's having established C1 and C2 and equipment dump.

  Icefall was very dangerous and 2 Spanish expeditions had accidents in it.

  2 Spanish expeditions and Poles had excellent relations with each other. Spanish teams flew no Spanish flag.

  Basque were strong climbers. Martin a professional and very strong but then summit attack took long time with bivouac which was first signal that snow conditions and weather very poor. In winter no snow on summit ridge because very strong winds swept them away.


  Shyam, Tourism - 20 May 80

  9:30 pm 2 Poles reached C5 today to C2 
  Both well
  No other attempt
  Leave BC 24 May


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 19 May 80

  Czok and Kukuczka reached summit 4:01 pm today; delay from South Summit because oxygen exhausted at South Summit and rest of climb without oxygen.

  Stayed on main summit 50 minutes and then started descending via pillar to C5; planted Poles and Nepalese flags on top. Very windy on summit. Knee-deep snow from South Summit to main summit; this also cause of delay. Snow wind and sunshine on summit.
   

  Shailendra Raj Sharma. Tourism - 17 May 80

  Summit team went yesterday C4 to C5
  Today left C5 at 3:00 am 
  Arrive South Summit at 9:00 am and still going up
  BC little snowfall today 
  No wind, summit clear

  Both summiters climbed 1979 Lhotse says Polish charge.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 18 May 80

  2 members started to summit from C4 at 2:00 am today 
  Andrzej Czok, 1948, electronic engineer
  Jerzy Kukuczka, 1948, mechanical engineer


  Shailendra Raj Sharma ,Tourism - 23 April 80

  Poles pitched C3 at 7500m on 19 April on Everest; doesn't know dates of lower camps but altitudes same as in winter.


  Korniszewski - 18 April 80

  C1
  C2 6500m
  C3 foot of pillar 6600-6800m 4-6 April
  C4 on pillar
  C5 on pillar
  C6 ?


  Dr. Korniszewski - 7 April 80

  4 or perhaps 5 camps on South Pillar
  Big ABC at bottom of Pillar


  3 June 1980 - Zawada press conference

  In the spring of 1980 the Association of Polish Alpine Club sent to Nepal a strong expedition led again by Andrzej Zawada, their objective was the ascent of the then unclimbed South Pillar of Sagarmatha 2100m of challenging snow, ice and rock that had defeated several previous strong attempts. Members of the expedition arrived in KTM by air, while the equipment followed a more tortuous path to Bombay by sea, and then through India and Nepal to KTM by truck.

  The expedition reached their BC at the foot of the Khumbu Icefall on the 25th March, 1980. C1 at 6050m, and C2 at 6500m were the same as those originally established by the preceeding Polish Everest Winter expedition. C3 at 7200m was established on the 7th April by E. Chrobak and K. Cielecki, while C4 (8050m) was set up [on 28 April] by the following members: A. Czok, Z. Heinrich, J. Kukuczka, W. Olech, W. Wroz.

  On the 28th April between C2 and C4 the route took a line through a series of ice fields on the right hand side of the pillar. Fixed ropes were found to be necessary. Above C4 a 200-meter rock band barred the way and proved to be the most difficult section of the route. All the members of the team were involved in over coming this technically difficult problem. C5 was finally established above the rock band, at an altitude of 8300m, on the 14th May, by team members R. Gajewski, J. Kulis, K. J. Rusiecki.

  On the 18th May, A. Czok and J. Kukuczka moved up to C5 and spent a difficult night harassed by strong winds and snow. Undeterred they began their summit bid at 5 o'clock the following morning. Throughout the day they encountered deep snow, strong winds, and very low temperatures which made the climbing slow and exhausting work despite the use of oxygen. After seven hours of continuous effort the two climbers reached the South Summit. Their oxygen finished, they decided nevertheless to push on for the main summit without oxygen, and at 4 pm they stood on the roof of the world. Their return to C4 involved a long struggle deep into the night. When they finally reached the sanctuary of the tent they had been in action for seventeen laborious hours, and a new route had been opened on Everest.

  Throughout the time the expedition was on the mountain the weather proved to be considerably worse than expected. Nearly every day of May saw first snowfall creating quite considerable avalanche danger.

  These two Polish successes on Sagarmatha, the historical winter ascent of the mountain, and the first ascent of the South Pillar, have only been made possible by the help and cooperation of the Nepali members of the expedition, as well as all Nepalese institutions and specially the Ministry of Tourism, HMG of Nepal.


expid: DHA180102
peakid: DHA1
year: 1980
route1: E Face-NE Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Voytek Kurtyka, Alex MacIntyre
sponsor: Nick Escourt Award Expedition to Dhaulagiri I
ascent1: 14th w/Swz
countries: Italy, UK
bcdate: 1980-04-08
smtdate: 1980-05-18
smttime: 1230
termdate: 1980-05-21
campsites:
  BC(08/04,4600m),C1(12/04,5700m),Biv1(06-07/05,6400m),Biv2(07-08/05,7100m),Biv3(08-09/05,7650m),Smt(18/05)

routememo:
  Kurtyka - 28 May 80

  All 4 members climbed face in 1 push but in very bad weather in 3 days; heavy snowfall, avalanches and spindrifts; bivouacs very poor (2nd biv only sitting).

  1st biv 6450m 6-7 May
  2nd biv 7100m 7-8 May
  3nd biv 7650m 8-9 May

  7650m highest point in this push then descended to BC at 4600m; 4-day rest, then to col and all 4 up NE Ridge to 7650m and then finished climb with variation of normal route (onto North Face) on 18 May with 2 Swiss and 2 Sherpas. Swiss used oxygen; Kurtyka's party used no oxygen, only 2 pitches led on face with rope, all rest unroped.

  Had already gone to 7650m on NE Ridge in acclimatization end of April.
  BC established 8 April.
  C1 established 12 April at 5700m.
  Snow cave on Ridge 6600m where slept in tent which carried with them at 
    7300m on ridge.
  Face very fine, quite steep, real climbing.
  No accidents or frostbite.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 27 May 80
   
  Summit on 18 May via East Face by alpine-style by all 4 members, stayed on top from 12:30 to 12:45 pm. All Ok.

  13 April crossed NE Col and reached 5700m
  14 Arpil reached 6400m
  17 April back to bottom of face
  21 April reached 6600m
  22 April reached 6900m but down to 5700m because of bad weather
  25 April reached 7220m
  06 May   reached 7500m then bad weather
  10+ May from 5700m up 


  MacIntyre & Kurtyka - 17 March 80

  NE Col where both expeditions put camps.
  Face expedition will have ABC here and only camp above BC at 5700m.
  BC north of Dhaulagiri I; approach 4600m via Dhampus Pass if snow allows. 
  Route up to East Face emerges onto NE Ridge at 7800m.
  First to attempt East Face expect Kurtyka's recce last year 400m up face. 
  Road to Pokhara and then up to 2 weeks to BC with 35 porters.
  May acclimatise on North Face but probably on NE Ridge upto 7400m.
  3 weeks to acclimatize before attempting face.
  Face begins 5600m; at most 4 days on face as light as possible;
    "everything depends on speed on that mountain."
  No fixed ropes, no oxygen, no Sherpas above NE Col's ABC.


expid: LHOT80102
peakid: LHOT
year: 1980
route1: W Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Ricardo Cots Trullas
sponsor: Expedicio Bages Himalaia 1980
countries: W Germany
bcdate: 1980-03-26
smtdate: 1980-05-15
termdate: 1980-05-26
othersmts: Permit for Everest
campsites: BC(26/03,5300m),C1(01/04,6400m),C2(04/04,6400m),C3(15/04,7360m),C4(26/04,7900m),xxx(15/05,8400m)
accidents: Pasang Nima Sherpa died of injury received from avalanche
termnote:
  Abandoned at 8400m due to route difficulty, fatal accident and shortage of time for further attempts

routememo:
  Bahi & Perez - 25 May 80

  Perez and Frontera tried for summit on 27 April only; reached 8150m found couloir without snow which meant 100m bare rock which would require fixed rope. Then after that rope was fixed and on 15 May 2nd attempt by 4 men: Perez, Pasang Nima, Ludwig and Sonam Girme; reached as follows:
   
    Sonam Girme, 8000m
    Ludwig, 8200m
    Pasang Nima & Perez 8400m

  This time much snow and very hard to make route at 8:00 pm, Pasang Nima oxygen finished.

  This snow avalanched next day and then accident and C4 entirely carried away. From C2 members went up and found at bottom of face one Sherpa alive but badly injured. Other 3 men not hurt but had to come down without fixed rope. Accident happened when were crossing yellow band at about 7500m.

  More avalanching destroyed C3 on 20 May; no one in it, Poles could see clearly. Then warm days and lot snowfall, so too dangerous to go on face. Sherpa morale hit by death; 6 members not still strong for Pillar route.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 22 May 80
   
  Lhotse/Everest: abandoned both mountains; decided yesterday and leave BC 26 May. Shortage of time. No information regarding highest point reached or who made last attempt. Never went up after Sherpa buried at C1. Asked permission by South Pillar day after Poles climbed; permit 
  given.

  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - ? May 80

  Leave BC 26 May 
  Shortage of time
  South Pillar difficult face; Col long


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - ? May 80

  Pasang Nima, 21, died yesterday 8:50 pm at C1

  2 Spaniards uninjured; to C1 with Pasang Nima; tried to take him to BC not impossible through Icefall; had hoped helicopter could go to C1.

  Not yet decided about further summit attempts.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 16 May 80

  Yesterday 2 members went on summit attempt but failed and returned C4. Avalanche from Lhotse icefall hit at 7600m while 2 Spaniards and Pasang Nima Sherpa descending from C4. Spaniards are safe but Sherpa seriously injured - neck cut. Both Spanish expeditions helping bring him down.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 1 May 80

  27 April summit attempt by
    Juan Frontera Torres, 1940 
    Javier Perez Gil, 1948

  28 April same 2 tried again and again failed, descended to C2 that day. Others to BC on 28th. Future plans not given. All well. 

  Reason why failed or how high actually go not given.


  Jordi Vinoly, Deputy Leader - 6 Feb 80

  50 oxygen bottles for summiters sleeping in C4 and climbing above; also for making route in couloir and sleeping in C5. 

  About 16 HA Sherpas
  Arrive BC about 20 March
  7 members now in KTM; rest including leader arrive KTM 17 March.


  Spaniards (Catalans) had permit for Lhotse and Everest but made no attempt on Everest. Leader was Cots. 

  Josep Montfort was the leader at the time of applying for permit in 1974, but did not come with the expedition.


expid: EVER80101
peakid: EVER
year: 1980
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Juan Ignacio Lorente Zugaza
sponsor: Basque Expedition to Everest 1980
ascent1: 39th
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1980-03-20
smtdate: 1980-05-14
smttime: 1530
termdate: 1980-05-21
campsites: BC(20/03,5400m),C1(05/04,6100m),C2(07/04,6500m),C3(17/04,7360m),C4(19/04,8000m),Smt(14/05)
accidents: 1 Sherpa injured in Icefall brought to KTM
routememo:
  Lorente & Zabalate - 30 May 80

  1st summit team reached South Summit, [Rosen, Gallardo,] Garayoa Aizcorbe and Nima Temba, 4th May, much wind.
   
  2nd summit team only to South Col, again wind about 8 May, Erro Jauregui and Pemba Tsering.

  3rd team Zabaleta and Pasang Temba [summited].

  Below 8500m South Summit saw ice and blue backpack, no bodies, much snow.

  On summit found tripod with rosary, crucifix and thermometer from Poles, nothing from Japanese biv, South Summit 14-15 May in crevasse 7:00 pm to 8:00 am. No bivy bag, no oxygen, no food, no drink; oxygen finished at Hillary Step. 8800m in descent at 5:00 pm Sherpa fell 6m with cornice between Hillary Step and South Summit. Zabaleta used ice axe to help in 2-hour struggle to get Pasang Temba up again.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma & Shyam 21 May 80

  Basques all Ok; all reached BC 19 May and start evacuating BC today.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 19 May 80

  Basques have abandoned Everest attempt.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 18 May 80

  Dawa Dorje Sherpa fell into crevasse 3 pm yesterday in Icefall descent; fell 20-25m in crevasse; back injured and now in KTM hospital. He was alone when fell.

  Another summit attempt probable.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 16 May 80

  2 summiters arrived South Col 7:15 pm yesterday. Left Col 8:00 am today for C2; 
    their health good; no RA from helicopter.
  Will be in BC tomorrow.
  Next summit attempt maybe tomorrow, may be later.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 15 May 80

  Yesterday's summiters couldn't reach emergency camp. Biv at South Summit at 8:30 pm. Oxygen finished; passed night without oxygen. In descent both slipped. Martin down on Tibet side and Pasang Temba pulled him up. This 7:00 am was radio between BC and summiters, but not good contact.

  3 Sherpas left at 7:30 to South Summit from col with oxygen and radio batteries. At 11:00 these Sherpas radioed they could see 2 people coming down.

  Lorente reached Col last night. Lorente visiting at South Col for summiters who expected arrive Col 5:00 pm. 2 Sherpas went up and met Martin and Pasang Temba at 1:00 pm today just little below South Summit; were descending slowly when Sherpa reached then and gave food drink and oxygen and then escorted them down. Their health is very good.

  Another summit attempt scheduled tomorrow or day after tomorrow; leader will decide.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma - 14 May 80

  Summit attempt by 
   (1) Dr. Juan Ignacio Lorente
   (2) Martin Zabaleta 
   (3) Pasang Sherpa

  3 started from South Col at 2:30 am; contact with summiters at 1 pm from South Summit. Lorente turned back at 8480m, where had emergency camp, because others ahead from start, then at top. 2 at summit 3:30 pm; on top 40 minutes and had lunch; weather very clear and could see much of Tibet but at BC snow fall from 2:00 pm. Since summit no further contact but planned to stay in emergency camp if late there. Lorente started to Col when summiters started down.

  No information re further summit attempt.


  Shailedra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 8 May 80

  2nd attempt failed; only little above South Col and bad weather turned them back; went to C2 yesterday; by 2 members (names not known). After 3-4 days another attempt.


  Yves Austin - 6 May 80

  No attempts on Everest and Lhotse today because very strong wind at 7:00 am. Blowing snow plume from below So Col. Heavy snowfall in Everest area last night; no snow even at Baruntse BC (4200m =14,000 feet) this morning.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 5 May 80

  3 Basque went up from South Col yesterday but failed to reach summit. Another party will try tomorrow.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 1 May 80

  Summit attempt 4 or 5 May; why waiting don't know.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 28 April 80

  Basques on Everest returned to Col on 19 April and made camp there.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 25 April 80

  1 members and 2 Sherpas reached South Col 19 April but descended same day; route made but no camp occupied; planned summit attack end April.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 3 April 80

  1 Sherpa injured in Icefall brought to KTM - not badly hurt.


  Arrue & Lorente - 20 Feb 80
   
  All 12 members now in KTM; leave Saturday, Sunday and Monday 25 Feb on scheduled flights to Lukla. Establish BC 20-25 March. Expedition one month acclimatization on Island Peak and other small peaks
  C2 at about 6600m
  C3 at       7200m
  C4 at       8000m
  Biv camp on Ridge at about 8500m for descent probably
  Oxygen in climbing above 7500m and sleeping at Col
  22 Sherpas above BC and sirdar is Pemba Tsering 
  12 in Icefall in addition 
  35 total (another sirdar at BC) 

  Want to give every member chance 1st summit, so need many Sherpas to carry lot of supplies to Col.

  Andes 1 month training period this past summer with ascents of four peaks.


expid: BARU80101
peakid: BARU
year: 1980
route1: E Ridge-NE Face-N Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Juan Jose Diaz Ibanez
sponsor: Federation Aragonesa De Montana
ascent1: 4th,5th
countries: USA
approach: Tumlingtar->Shipton La->Barun Glacier
bcdate: 1980-04-07
smtdate: 1980-04-27
smttime: 1300
termdate: 1980-05-05
campsites: BC(07/04,5350m),C1(10/04,5650m),C2(19/04,6060m),C3(25/04,6600m),Smt(27-28/04)
routememo:
  Buhler & Lopez - 11 May 80

  Lopez no frostbite, Prado very mild.
  Other members arrive KTM today.
  All well (except Prado's mild frostbite), no accidents, no serious illnes.
  Route was East Ridge.

  BC was on Barun Glacier (near a lake near "c" on Schneider map). Then to east and north of point 6220m with C1 on snow glacier northwest of point 6220m at 5650m; then onto ridge west of Col which is west of point 6220m, along East Ridge to NE Face, up NE Face until it came out onto North Ridge at about 7000m, finally North Ridge to summit.

  Pasang, Dr Morandeira and Blanchard climbed to point 6220m from northwest on 27 April to take photos of summit team.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 7 May 80

  Summit from east side, above C3 on North Face. 

  On 27 April Started from C3 established 25 April at 6600m at 2:00 am. Reached top at 1:00 pm and stayed 1-1/2 hours (took photos), returned to C3 at 6:30 pm.
  Summiters: 
     1) Jeramino Lopez Martinez, 1951
     2) Javier Escartin Orus, 1949 
     3) Lorenzo Ortas Pont, 1953
     4) Carlos Buhler, 1954

  On 28 April summit left 1:30 am from C3 and reached top 6:50 am, on top 1 hour, returned to C3 at 10:00 am. By:
     1) Gonzalo Prado Vallero, 1955 
     2) Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa

  Weather on top clear both days. All health good except Lopez and Prado have frostbitten toes. Expedition finished. Letter dated 30/15.


  Lopez - 18 March 80

  Baggage not yet in KTM.

  Truck to Dharan and then walk to BC in about 15-18 days with 125 porters. Baruntse BC 1 day above American Makalu BC. BC at foot of East Face at about 4900m.

  Route = NE Ridge,  new route, over 2000m height with technical difficulties; will try use few ropes and 2-3 camps above BC with 1 at beginning of ridge and 2 more on ridge.
   
  If weather good 10-20 days climbing (acclimatization during approach and some members recently on high mountains so retain some acclimatization).

  2 Sherpas above BC including sirdar Lhakpa Dorje.

  Oxygen medical only.


  Letter from BC - April 29, 1980

  On the 27th of April two rope teams of Javier Escartin, Jeronimo Lopez, Carlos Buhler and Lorenzo Ortas reached the summit of Baruntse (7220m). The next day a third rope team of Gonzalo Prado and Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa also reached the summit.

  The expedition followed the previously East Ridge consisting of difficulties in rock and ice between 6000 and 6800m.

  Base camp was established at 5300m on April 7. We established three higher camps at 5600m, 6050m and 6600m.

  All the members and Sherpas are back in base camp and in good health.


expid: EVER80401
peakid: EVER
year: 1980
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Naomi Uemura
sponsor: Japan Winter Everest Expedition
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1980-11-27
smtdate: 1981-01-27
termdate: 1981-02-01
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to high winds
campsites: BC(27/11,5350m),C1(09/12,6050m),C2(17/12,6500m),C3(26/12,7300m),xxx(27/01,8000m)
routememo:
  Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 27 Jan 81

  Today weather excellent: -20 degrees BC
  Don't know about Uemura in C2
  Mitani and Matsuda 2 members left C2 yesterday afternoon; reached near C3 by 3:00 pm.

  Sugasawa to BC again; to Lukla 29 Jan says Brimay 28 Jan.

   
  Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 28 Jan 81

  -16 degrees C today at BC, serene and no wind.

  Poles climbed Everest in "extended winter." According to rules winter to 31 Jan.

  Yesterday Uemura, Mitani, Matsuda and Akutsu and 5 Sherpas started from C3 to South Col and Uemura, Matsuda and Akutsu returned to C3 from Geneva Spur because high wind at the Spur. Mitani and 2 Sherpas reached South Col at 3 pm, but because of very very high wind and food deposited earlier on 18 Jan between C3 and Col had been blown away and other Sherpas returning to C3 and lack of time, not time to pitch a C4 and returned to C3 5:30 pm.

  Uemura because of high wind on Col and unable make C4 after many days efforts and members and Sherpas being tired and food blown away, decided yesterday to abandon all attempt on mountain.
   
  Today, expedition cleared by 1:00 C3 and coming down to C2. Tomorrow will clear C2 and C1 to BC. Leave BC 1 Feb.


  Uemura - 6 Feb 81

  I think I can not come back to Mount Everest in winter; it is too hard for me in winter. We had accident and 1 member killed; it was too sad for me so I don't like this any more, and in winter too hard. In this year during our climbing it was so bad weather, wind strong and not clear day. No 3 days in row were fine since after Xmas to end Jan. Jan too bad weather; Feb less bad weather. Last year fine weather to 19 Jan did not extent into Feb because weather so bad since Xmas and forecast was continuing bad into Feb, our power was not enough against bad weather but not more members, maybe leadership failed. Also food low and frostbite cases of Sugasawa and Mitani reached 8600m or 8700m on Everest north side supporting Kato last spring, very strong climber; also Matsuda who climbed Aconcaguq in winter, and Takenaka were strong.
  Everest is very terrible mountain, also Icefall very dangerous. I lost my great friend. No I don't want to come again; its very difficult, no money, don't know.

  Uemura, Mitani and 3 Sherpas reached Col but could not pitch camp because bad weather: wind cloud. On 12 Jan Takenaka slipped because crampans did not fit boots. Also bad weather he spwnt long time in descent from C3 probably because of crampons.

  No members used oxygen climbing but some in C3 sleeping.

  5 climbing members in KTM. Uemura arrives today; left BC 1 Feb; leaves KTM 10 Feb with no plans he can say to return; I don't want to kill more members; better to go alone (but not Everest solo).

  Lost 12 kg on climb.


  Japan Everest Expedition

  3 Japanese and some Sherpas in C2 today; -23 degrees centrigrade at BC, cloudy and light wind; weather improving and hope tomorrow fully improved and can go above C2; 2 days good weather all that's required not going to extend beyond 31 Jan. Want to climb in formal winter season Dec-Jan. Uemura has booked next winter also by South Col. 


  Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 22 Jan 81

  Today again those in C2 not going above to C3 weather today is cloudy, foggy and light wind: -21 degrees centrigrade at BC


  Shyam, Tourism - 23 Jan 81

  Climber still in C2.


  Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 21 Jan 81

  C2 5:30 pm yesterday reached by Uemura and 2 Japanese, Mitani and Matsuda, from BC day before 7 Sherpas left BC to go today. 

  Thick mist -19 degrees C and cloudy did not try to go to C3.


  Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 18 Jan 81

  Will start climbing from tomorrow if weather is good and if all well, summit attack on 23 or 24 Jan. Weather not good today: cloudy.

  16 Jan Takenaka cremated at Dugla. 7 Japanese including Uemura and 7 Sherpas at ceremony.

  Sugasawa bringing ashes to KTM 19 or 20 and father and sister arrive 21 Jan. Will also bring Takenaka's crampons, ice axe and some equipment, also.

  All members will return to KTM 10 Feb.


  Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 16 Jan 81

  Takenaka's body taken to cremation site at Dugla from BC this morning.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 14 Jan 80

  Takenaka's body brought to C2 yesterday; today try to bring to BC. 6 more Sherpas went up from BC to help bring body to BC. Cremate at Dugla below Lobuche on 16th. Today at BC -20 degrees centigrade and windy.


  Shrestha, Tourism - 13 Jan 81

  Yesterday 10:00 am Takenaka and Uemura started from C3 to C2 and at 6800m Takenaka missed to hook into fix rope and slipped. Death confirmed by Dr. Shigeru Takei at 3:00 pm.

  All members waiting for permission of Takenaka family about disposed of body.

  Today 5 Sherpas and 2 members Mitani and Matsuda going from C2 to place where body lying after 200m fall and are trying to bring body to C1 today.

  Expedition will meet at BC in next few days to decide continuation of expedition. 

  At 11:00 am today - 25 degrees C at BC and weather good.


  Prachandra Shrestha, Tourism - 12 Jan 81

  6 climbers; total 17

  Noboru Takenaka (born 1952 = 28 student, Wasada University) slipped at 6800m while coming down from C3 to C2 today and declared dead by expedition doctor at 15:00 hours. Details expected tomorrow.


  Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism - 12 Jan 81

  Established C3 26 Dec 7300m; in this camp Sugasawa received frostbite his middle finger righthand so came to BC on 9 Jan.

  9 Jan in C3 were 5 members + 7 Sherpas
  Program was to go to C4 12 Jan and first summit attack 13 Jan.
  12 Jan bad weather and need for rest all are coming to BC for 2 days. 
  All from C2 and C1 also to BC, some will reach today some tomorrow.
  Those in C3 were Uemura, Matsuda, Mitani, Takenaka and Akutsu 
  -20 degrees C at BC today 11:00 am and cloudy.


  Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 5 Jan 81

  pitched C2 17 Dec at 6500m
  +       C3 26 Dec at 7300m
  On 27 Dec tried to go to Col and driven back by winds planned make C4 by 3 Jan and summit by 9 Jan.


  Uemura - 2 Nov 80

  17 members total
  6 climbers
  3 researchers
  2 Drs (also research)
  6 correspondents

  Leave 5 Nov to Lukla.
  Acclimatize probably at Pheriche for 1 week, arrive BC end Nov.
  Research on physiology
  Maybe 4 camps with C4 on Col, possibly maybe a camp on SE Ridge, very flexible 
    depending on conditions 
  We hope arrive summit middle Jan, even early Jan but tat perhaps difficulties 
    we can't make rush attack: we have 2 main purposes 
  1) climbing 
  2) ice cores from various altitudes (scientists have brought out ice for Himal).
  British can make rush attack, we cannot
  Ice cores for analysis of chemical properties and ice crystals which tells 
     about past climate (10-20 years ago)
  20 Sherpas above BC and 5 local Sherpas for Icefall

  60 bottles of oxygen, use from Col, perhaps below depending conditions; without oxygen how to protect against cold of -50 degree C, -40 degree ? very beautiful without oxygen, without Sherpas, but how to do in Winter. 


  Naomi Uemura - 20 Jan 80

  Leave KTM Jan, arrived 6 Dec to Lukla soon afterwards to Kalapattar spin Pumori 5400m for nearly one month (near top of Kalapattar).

  Checked temperature, clouds and wind; now assistant researcher in glacialogy and metereology at Nagana University and did some research for University.

  Main findings: Sometimes -50 degrees centigrade above 8000m, -6 degrees every 1000m and at Kalapattar -26 degrees (almost every day below -20 degrees, -40 degrees at summit; wind more than 20 m/sec.

  Everest can be climbed in winter. Possible if find days without wind; at Kalapattar only 2 days without wind. After put final camp on South Col may have chance to get to top direct from Col maybe possible to reach top in Feb. Nov-Jan months of westerly jet streams at average 30-40 m/sec at 9000m.

  Col very strong winds; would put camp just below col; no different techniques. 

  Uemura will make BC early Dec and reach summit on New Year's day but depends on weather. 10 members including journalists but 6 climbers including Uemura. Sponsors are Mainichi paper and Mainichi Broadcasting (TV) - already has permit. Maybe tents in Feb on Col but not possible in Dec-Jan.

  I think I have chance to get to summit in Jan because when I checked weather in one month could find some days no wind or very little wind; could wait in South Col for good weather but in winter difficult to go to summit from Col; 6:30 am day break, 5:30 pm dark, maybe would need biv on return.

  I want to go to top again myself. In winter very important to use oxygen because very difficult to get warm again without oxygen. Need special equipment (clothing) for cold maybe Eskimo clothing, but this is bulky and difficult to move. 3-layer tents instead of normal 2 layers (4 layers via Arctic) not much snow via Col in winter because wind; Khumbu Icefall not so dangerous, hard not so many seracs falling. Not alpine style climb, next winter with 20 Sherpas including sirdar Pemba Tenzing. Will have fixed camps and use oxygen kept camera ready for Yeti, does not believe in Yeti.

  Stopped drinking liquor last August to preserve courage over long period: if no drink make very big courage over long period, if drink make very big courage for short time.

  Hiroke Watanabe will lead Japanese on north side of Everest. 
  Uemura will come next to KTM late Nov.

  After 1974 Dhaulagiri recce around mountain, no real climbing. Climbing was Everest 1971 but 1975 Elbrus and 5000m in Europe; wanted to do trans-Antarctic solo with dogs in 3-4 months but US refused help so now to Everest in winter and if success maybe can convince US to help cross 3000m from shortest route McMurdo Base at Ross Sea to Argentine base via US Scott base at Pole. this July-Aug next to go to Aconcagua 6960m in this winter; it has never been climbed in winter and stay one night on top; will be also very cold. 3 members with Uemura who will come to Everest. Already climbed it solo in Feb 1968 in 15 hours from foot at 4200m; this to get into good physical condition.

  -51 degrees Centigrade experience in Arctic all day and night one day in March 1978 at beginning; daily was 40 degrees and -45 degrees Centigrade, but in mountains some warm air to -7 degrees or so.

  Polish are very strong so I think they will succeed. For us is hobby but for them is job. If Poles succeed maybe Uemura will do something different; different route but probably not. Uemura believes Chinese in 1960 reached top. He met 1960 summiters and their description of final climb very true.

  Uemura lives in Tokyo. Will probably stay at Arora. Next Nov-Dec trekking representative not decided, maybe THT.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 24 Oct 79

  Uemura came to KTM on 19 Oct and met Sharma that day; applied for Everest for winter 1980-81 for 5 members ascent without Sherpas and oxygen, route not decided. Uemura will come back to Nepal this Nov and spend a month in Khumbu.


expid: EVER80103
peakid: EVER
year: 1980
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
route2: N Face (Japanese & Hornbein Couloirs)
nation: Japan
leaders: Hyoriki Watanabe
sponsor: Japanese Alpine Club (JAC)
ascent1: 37th
ascent2: 38th
approach: Lhasa->BC
bcdate: 1980-03-05
smtdate: 1980-05-03
smttime: 1655
campsites: Smt(03,10/05) (See Route Details)
accidents: Akira Ube died in avalanche
routememo:
  Shohei Wada (member 80 Japanese Everest Exped) - 7 Jan 80

  Japan Everest Expedition on North Spr 1980.

  Chinese will participate only as helpers; load-carriers and will go only up to 7500m; will be 3 "sirdars" and 25 others, probably all Tibetans.

  Will be 19 Japanese divided into 2 parties to attempt Everest by North Face and NE Ridge separately. No attempt Everest to meet on summit, no plan to ascend one route and descend other. Will use oxygen. Face party to start climbing 7 March, Ridge party on 14 March; summit 20 May.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma - 24 Aug 79

  Sharma has just returned from visit to Japan where he met with JAC official and others. Japanese on Everest next year via Main Rongbuk Glacier and North Face. No Sherpas available so 30 Japanese of whom 20 = load carriers and 10 climbers; no Chinese climbers Sharma believes, but Mr Shih will be with expedition. Japanese asked permission to send baggage via Kodari because of cost from "mainland."

  China: cost of Lhasa hotel = $250 per person; peak fee is double Nepal's fee for Everest; rules same as Nepal rules.

  N Col-N Ridge Route:
  BC(05/03,5150m),C1(16/03,5500m),C2(17/03,6000m),ABC(22/03,6500m),C4(25/03,7000m),
    C5(06/04,7600m),C6(01/05,8000m),C7(02/05,8250m),Smt(03/05),Biv(03/05,8750m)

  N Face Route:
  BC(05/03,5150m),C1(09/03,5640m),ABC(25/03,6150m),C3(04/04,6900m),C4(18/04,7700m),
    C5(20/04,8350m),Smt(10/05),Biv(10/05,8700m)


expid: HIME80301
peakid: HIME
year: 1980
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Czechoslovakia
leaders: Rostislar Hroza, Iwo Sedlacek
sponsor: Czech Himalayan Expedition 1980
routememo:
  Route = SW Ridge same as Japan 1978 spring.

  All except Hroza leader left KTM today to Dumre from where porters start late this am. Hroza and Sedlacek leave KTM Sun or Monday, 14 or 15 Sept.

  BC at Dordi Khola at same altitude as Japan 1978 (3700m or so) and same 5 HA camps. 

  BC 21 or 22 Sept, summit end Oct.
  Only sirdar Ang Kami will go above BC amongst Sherpas.
  Oxygen medical only


  Expedition leader Sedlacek got telegram from Czechoslovakian Embassy in Delhi 15 Sept 1980 C/o of E. Hawley "Czechoslovakian Sports authorities do not allow division of Czechoslovak mountaineering expedition into 2 groups. They permit climbing only Manaslu Peak via one way." Another telegramm Sedlacek C/O of Miss Hawley from Embassy; "Czechoslovak Mountaineering CSTV cannot agree ascent Himalchul Peak. Assoc insists ascent originally planned peak Manaslu by normal route." Therefore team came back to KTM and said they would go trekking.


expid: HIME80302
peakid: HIME
year: 1980
route1: SW Ridge (to 5800m)
route2: SE Ridge
nation: USA
routememo:
  Matsuno - 7 Nov 81
   
  Last autumn (1980), a "secret" American party was on SW Ridge of Himalchuli, same route as Japanese made BC at Japanese C1 (5020m) and reached c5800m. Could not go beyond c5800m because the route was very difficult, then tried another way to SE Ridge but avalanching stopped them before they were able to reach the ridge. This was told to Matsuno by village people and he found their fixed rope and nuts at Japanese C2 5620m.


  Mike Yager - Sept 84

  Yager never heard of any Americans on Himalchuli in 1980 or any other time besides his own first effort in 1979. 

  [Ed. note: perhaps villagers are confusing this expedition with the 1979 American expedition that also attempted the Himalchuli by two different routes.]


expid: MARD80301
peakid: MARD
year: 1980
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Brian Wood
smtdate: 1980-10-14
campsites: Smt(14/10)
routememo:
  Johansen - 29 Oct 80

  Reached summit and then snow cloud came which had not had much in previous days. Jensen 2 days wandering to find tent; snow and cloud caused wandering. Landmarks obliterated and 6 days before search party met Jensen at 12,500 ft. Went up one route down another so again difficult to find. Wood assumed dead. 

  Wood broke back or ribs in fall and could not move. Jensen had to find tent to get clothes. Assumed Wood died that night.


  Rev. Carl Johansen, Exec of UMN - 24 Oct 80

  Memorial services at Pokhara Sun, back on Monday-Tuesday.

  2nd hand info: Wood and one other worker from sister organization climbed one of lesser peaks in Annapurna range on holiday. Were alone. Climbed 18,000er and on way down both fell. One into rock and assumed he critically hurt; other into snow and slight hurt with concussion and not able to evacuate. Team went out from Pokhara and found other who had wandered for 2 days. Wood's body not found.


expid: SAIP96301
peakid: SAIP
year: 1996
route1: W Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Gaston Zoller
sponsor: Saipal Expedition
countries: France
approach: Simikot then 'Training Trek' via Limi Valley NW
bcdate: 1996-10-09
smtdate: 1996-10-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6470m due to too much snowfall
campsites: LowBC(09/10,4025m),HighBC.C1(18/10,5100m),C2(21/10,5780m),xxx(21/10,6470m)
accidents: Tilsenkoff throat problem
agency: Lama Adventure Treks
routememo:
  Low BC at Kairang Khola
  High BC at valley glacier below North Face (7km+ from low BC)
  C2 at West Col on West Ridge connecting Firnkopf and Saipal.

  Approach Route: Simikot then "training trek" via Limi Valley to N & W & SE to Tumkot, Munchur to Puiya to Thothoriya in Kirang Khola.

  After Low BC made heavy snowfall for 10 days delayed progress. 21st up to see site for C3 at 6470m and returned to C1 because weather changing and needed to carry supplies up site C3. 24th 2 members down to low BC and snowfall resumed. 25th other 2 members also to low BC. 30th 2 members up to C1 to clear that camp (on 23rd had cleared C2).

  (Made no attempt to climb Firnkopf because of bad snow conditions. Had hoped to do so before attacking Saipal but when it came time to do so, feared getting trapped in unknown snow conditions and terrain).


expid: PUTH96301
peakid: PUTH
year: 1996
route1: NE side via E Plateau
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Francois Tripard
sponsor: French Dolpo Expedition 1996
ascent1: 16th
countries: Switzerland
approach: Kakot from Dunai; south via Ka (Kayo) Khola
bcdate: 1996-10-01
smtdate: 1996-10-13
smttime: 1000
termdate: 1996-10-19
campsites: BC(01/10,4800m),C1(08/10,5300m),C2(10/10,5900m),C3(12/10,6400m),Smt(13/10)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC on 30th Sep at 4800m southwest of Pt 4718 on Japan Dhaulagiri map 
  C1 on  8th Oct at 5300m on narrowing glacier between Pt 6127m & 6172m
  C2 on 10th Oct at 5900m on small snow ridge
  C3 on 12th Oct at 6400m on E. snow plateau.

  Tripard - 2 Nov 96

  Climbed via glacier between Pt 6127m & 6172m and then south to Langra Glacier on peak's east side; C2 was on this Langra Glacier's east snow plateau. From C2 Tripard and Foellmi to top in 7 hours and other summiters from C3 in 4 hours (last 4 hours all summiters together to top). 14th four other members in C3 could not make second summit attempt because of strong wind. Now climb finished, C3 brought down.

  Singapore team followed French because only French had skis and snow shoes which were necessary to open route. No difficulties in skis and shoes up and down (skied from summit to C1 and then more parts of route below).


  Email message from Tripard - Dewc 16, 2003

  Do you remember your summit time on Oct 13?
     yes 10 h
  We are showing the summiters as Tripard, Allibert, Foellmi Laurent, Manificat and Ang Jambu Sherpa (is this correct?).
     yes
  Is your Ang Jambu also known as Lama Janbu from Kharikhola who summited Everest and Cho Oyu in 1995 or is this a different Sherpa?
     ??


expid: KJER96301
peakid: KJER
year: 1996
route1: W Face-SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Renzo Zanon
sponsor: Andrasace Geneva Expedition to Kanjeralwa
approach: By air->Juphal (Dunai)->Dunai north->Pungmo & Darjam
bcdate: 1996-11-06
smtdate: 1996-11-08
termdate: 1996-11-09
termnote: Abandoned at 5000m due to powder snow
campsites: BC(06/11,4800m),xxx(08/11,5000m)
accidents: Nothing serious during climb
agency: Tip & Top Trekking
routememo:
  Approach: by air to Juphal (Dunai), north to Pungmo and Darjam Khola trail (Darjam).

  Barras & Schwarz - 22 Nov 96

  Zanon, Schaerrer and Eigenmann were the only people went above BC: they climbed to 5000m to start of SW Ridge and then give up because of deep powder snow, which would have taken many days to climb.


expid: PUTH96302
peakid: PUTH
year: 1996
route1: NE side-E Face
nation: Malaysia
leaders: David Lim
sponsor: Singapore Expedition to Putha Hiunchuli
ascent1: 17th,18th
countries: Singapore, UK
bcdate: 1996-10-07
smtdate: 1996-10-16
smttime: 1245
campsites: BC(07/10,4800m),C1(08/10,5300m),C2(10/10,5800m),C3(12/10,6300m),Smt(16,19/10)
achievment: Singaporean's highest altitude
agency: Chomalhari Trekking
routememo:
  From Kathmandu, the team flew to Nepalgunj where they were delayed for 24 hours owing to the fault of the helicopter's operators. The flight to Dunai was effected on 29th Sept. The trek route was as follows: Dunai-Tarakot-Musi Khola-Kalikot-Pangsi La-German BC (4600m)-French BC (4800m).

  Heavy snow for two days put two feet of snow on the day the team crossed the Pangsi La en route to the German BC. Khoo and myself had an episode of HAPE. A day was lost here. A French team comprising 10 climbers (including 7 professional mountain guides) and 6 Sherpas eventually broke trail and helped considerably in establishing the path from BC to C2.

  BC was established on 7 Oct and higher camps were quickly established up the snow covered moraines. C1 (5300m, 4 hours from BC uphill) established 8 Oct, C2 (5800m) was set up on 10 Oct, and C3 (6300m) on 12 Oct. It must be noted that on our arrival at BC, period of about 12 days of stable weather set in. However, between 13-14 Oct, a strong windstorm hit the peak with Mok, Robert, MB [Man Bahadur], Mingma at C3 and Khoo and myself [David Lim] at BC. Having successfully established the upper camps, the advance team retreated to C1 and BC to recuperate. The expedition doctor, Yogenthiran had to return to Kalikot after contracting a fever with asthmatic complications. He was accompanied by Krishna, the LO.

  Khoo and I spent 2 nights at C2, one night at C3 and then went for the summit. We were joined by MB and Mingma that morning. We left C3 at 6:45 am on 16 Oct and in good weather conditions, summitted at about 12:45 pm. The snow was mixed; with deep crusted snow mixed with patches of firm wind-scoured snow. We ascended the East Face and descended partially down the East Ridge. MB and I returned to C3 and then to BC the following day. Mingma returned to C2 and then to BC the following day. Khoo leected to return to BC that day, arriving at 7 pm.

  2 days later, Robert and MB returned to the peak and successfully summitted after and alpine-style push from BC on the 18th. Summiting on the 19th at noon and returning to BC on the same day (at about 7:30 pm).


expid: APIM96301
peakid: APIM
year: 1996
route1: S(E) Face
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Roman Robas
sponsor: Slovenian Three Peaks Expedition 1996 to Api, Bobaye and Nampa
ascent1: 6th
bcdate: 1996-10-16
smtdate: 1996-11-04
termdate: 1996-11-09
othersmts: Climbed Bobaye (BOBA-963-01) and Nampa (NAMP-963-01)
campsites: BC(16/10,3650m),Smt(04/11)
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC west of Bobaye, south of Api
  Really no fixed camps (divided from start into 3 teams for 3 mountains and 
    climbed alpine-style with bivouacs).

  One BC for all 3 mountain, but separate depots, which were used also to study routes but not really used as ABCs. Climbed 3 mountains simultaneously after 1 week's snowfall and wind delayed attempts.

  Debelak, Meglic and Zerovnik from BC 31 Oct to depot at 4500m. 1 Nov started up at 3:30 am via right side of glacier found rock pyramid with icefall to right side so climbed up a small rock face further night and down it 200m to snow slope to first biv at 5300m at small plateau; actually climbed 80m above biv site to fix ice climbing rope in this section (where found 2 British pitons + British rope found later higher up). 2 Nov started 6:30 am in good weather following 1 Nov afternoon snowy and windy; traversed left from biv 250m and up small snow ridge to 5800m (1500-2000m line on distance) and biv here after 10 cm new snow fell and couldn't see route above. 3 Nov started 9:00 am after drying sleeping bags, tents and clothes in sun: up to right side of big seracs (a bit below which found British rope) and straight ahead up another serac and traverse right and reached biv at 2:00 pm at 6050m; knew there was no place for biv higher; this night Zerovnik sick (fever & chills) so on 4 Nov Debelek and Meglic started at 1:00 am, traversed crevasse is very cold wind and constant small avalanches (made breathing difficult); finally 300m snow to mixed snow-thin rock area up to Western plateau to top. Were on SE Face (which British in Autumn 1992 same route called South Face) to final 500 linear meters (20 vertical meters) up plateau. Descended same route moving quickly in strong wind and slept 4 Nov in 6050m biv where Zerovnik had stayed. 5 Nov to BC all 3 together.

accidents:
  Ice destroyed tent Stremfelj and Prezelj were in on 22 Oct at 4400m foot of Api; Stremfelj arm hurt & Prezelj leg near ankle broken


expid: DHA196306
peakid: DHA1
year: 1996
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Eduard Koblmueller
sponsor: Austrian Dhaulagiri Expedition
ascent1: 90th
bcdate: 1996-10-12
smtdate: 1996-11-05
termdate: 1996-11-08
campsites: BC(12/10,4700m),C1(14/10,5800m),C2(19/10,6600m),C3(20/10,7200m),C4(04/11,7500m),Smt(05/11)
accidents: Eduard Koblmueller frostbitten toes; Funkl sick above 6100m
agency: Karyang Kurung Treks
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at NE Col
  C2 on NE Ridge
  C3 on NE Ridge
  C4 on NE Ridge.

  Never had such heavy snowfall; one captured at C1 for 5 days in which 4m of snowfall; very dangerous to come down of their these 6 days. Already had great problem to cross Dhampus Pass to reach BC because of deep snow. 15th made depot 6400m and down to BC. After C3 established on 20th, most days windy and not fully acclimatized so to C1. 22nd unable to leave C1 because of capture by snow. Finally on 28th reached BC after having run short of food; arrived at C1 after winds had luckily blown 4m snow away. Ammerer, Eduard Koblmueller, Michael Koblmueller, Schmollngruber & Schuetter in this push. 1st Nov to C2; 3rd to C3 ([Ammerer] down to C2 because cold and windy); 4th made C4 and 5th on top.


expid: GURJ96301
peakid: GURJ
year: 1996
route1: NW Face-W Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Pedro Nicolas
sponsor: Spanish Gurja Himal Expedition
ascent1: 9th
approach: Gurja Kani->Budzunga Basa->Jhar Khola->Kaphe Khola
bcdate: 1996-09-07
smtdate: 1996-09-20
smttime: 1400
termdate: 1996-09-26
campsites: BC(07/09,4450m),C1(14/09,4950m),C2(18/09,5700m),C3(19/09,6300m),Smt(20/09)
accidents: Madejon & Miss Fernandez illness (he edema, she throat)
achievment: 1st Spanish success on 1st Spanish attempt
agency: Treks of Enchantment
routememo:
  BC at Kapha Khola's feeding glacier
  C1 at glacier ENE of point 4738
  C3 at NW Face.

  From C1 crossed rocky area, fixed 500m ropes on steep rock, to glacier plateau to C3 on slope of NW Face and through to West Ridge to top via small Col on ridge. On 20th started 4:00 am in very cold and soft snow covered by crust and were on summit 2:00 pm. Left C3: Martinez, Garcia-Atance, Mr. Fernandez and Nicolas. Martinez and Garcia-Atance stopped at Col at 6800m because of cold and exhausted and descended; Fernandez and Nicolas up summit ridge but Fernandez became slow so Nicolas to top alone at 2:00 pm and after 10 minutes wait for Fernandez descended; now at 7000m and Fernandez joined Nicolas in descent. Fernandez fell just after they met and created avalanche and fell from 7100m to 6700m but no serious injury in deep snow.


expid: DHA196304
peakid: DHA1
year: 1996
route1: E Face-NE Ridge up; NE Ridge down
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Bart Vos
sponsor: Dutch Dhaulagiri Expedition
ascent1: 89th claimed
bcdate: 1996-09-20
smtdate: 1996-10-17
smttime: 1930
termdate: 1996-10-23
termnote: Success claimed
achievment: 1st Dutch ascent
agency: Trekking International
campsites:
  BC(20/09),C1(25/09,5780m),Biv1(11/10,6100m),Biv2(12/10,6600m),Biv3(13/10,7200m),Biv4(15/10,7600m),Biv5(16/10,8100m),Smt(17/10)

routememo:
  C1 at NE Col
  Bivs on East Face
  Biv on NE Ridge.

  Vos - 5 Nov 96

  Summited at 19:30 hours after having gone down on North Face to be sure where highest point actually was and up to it again; had left last biv at 8:30 am having had to wait for wind to drop; descended to 7500m, where stayed 5 hours in abandoned Japanese tent; down to C1 on 18th and BC on 19th.

  Russians and Austrians were on NE Ridge where Vos descended this way - fixed 100m at about 5600m on East Face. Difficulty was the duration and the weather. Most difficult place was rock at 7600-7000m on face. Took 5-10 days supply of food and fuel when started up on 11th Oct and biv tent & sleeping bag & down suit. Snow on face made it possible for him to climb it. Probably climbed new line.


  Eduard Koblmueller - 9 Nov 96: He does not believe it possible that Vos reached summit - refused to elaborate. But in late Feb 2000, he spoke to a Dutch journalist investigating Vos's Dhaulagiri and Everest summit claims, Ms. Milja de Zwart, who reported to me: "I talked to Mr. Koblmueller and he told me Bart Vos had a nickname on Dhaulagiri. 'The Netherland man' was called 'the Neverland man.' He said he simply didn't believe Vos made it to the top. Vos boasted he wanted to climb a a new route on the eastern wall, but he climbed the classical route just like the others. Koblmueller spoke with the Swiss couple Pierre-Alain and Helene Romagnoli too, and they told me Vos was a very mediocre mountaineer, comparing to his plans. Nobody saw him on the eastern wall ever, except maybe one time; when he traversed eastward for maybe a hundred meters to make a picture of the classical route and thus creating "proof" to back his "claims."

  However Koblmueller's team arrived at base camp on 12 Oct, only five days before Vos's claimed summit success, and their route diverged from that of Vos.  The Austrians summitted on the 19th. Vos said he left base camp -- their base camps were in the area -- on the 23rd.

  Ministry of Tourism did not give Vos a certificate of summit success since he had no satisfactory photo of himself on top; his only photo was taken at night and could have been taken on any snowy slope. 

  * Leader of Russian Dhaulagiri Expedition in Autumn 96 in Russian Expedition report on their own ascent, said on web site report of expedition activities that Vos did not reach the summit.


  Autumn 1996 Ascent of Dhaulagiri I by Bart Vos Disputed

  Vos told me on 5 Nov, 1996, on his return to Kathmandu from his Dhaulagiri I climb without any other members or Sherpas with him (and without oxygen), that he had summited at 17:13 pm (well after dark) on 17 October alone. He had left his highest bivouac that morning at 8100m late at 8:30 am, because he had had to wait for the wind to drop, and then had gone down on the North Face to be sure where the highest point on the mountain actually was, and finally up to the summit. The photo that he claims shows him on the summit could have been taken anywhere: the background behind his body is entirely dark, and in the foreground at his feet on simply gently-sloping snow.

  The leader of an Austrian expedition on the mountain at the same time, Eduard (Edi) Koblmueller, told me on 9 November after his own return to Kathmandu that he did not believe it possible that Vos reached the top. He refused to elaborate. However his team arrived at base camp on 12 October, only five days before Vos's claimed summit success, and their route diverged from that of Vos.  The Austrian summited on the 19th. Vos said he left base camp -- their base camps were in the area - on the 23rd.

  An expedition from St. Petersburg, Russia was also on Dhaulagiri I at the same time. The published a report in English of their climb on their web site, and it states that only their expedition had succeeded in "conquering" the mountain. It specifically says that the Dutchman, after his third (and again vain) attempt, "had to retire from Dhaulagiri."

  The Nepalese ministry of tourism never gave him a certificate of his summit success. The official in charge of the mountaineering section said Vos had no satisfactory picture of himself at the top, and the official knew about the grave doubts of Vos's success on Everest in 1984.

  A member of the spring 1984 Dutch Everest team, of which Vos was also a member, Miss Mariska Mourik, wrote to me on 25 Nov, 1999 about Vos's failure on Everest. She added:

  "I never doubted Bart's ascensions of Cho Oyu and Dhaulagiri (the third time in 1996). I believed that Bart wanted to prove, to himself and to others, that he was capable of climbing the high Himalayan peaks. But then, by sheer coincidence, I met (members of the Russian Dhaulagiri team) Alexei Choestrev and Nikolay Pimpkin in Chamonix in the summer of 1997. During our conversation they mentioned having been on the Dhaulagiri in the autumn of 1996. Then you must have met Bart Vos, I said, a Dutchman who reached the summit after having soloed a new route in the east face. Through Nicolay and Alexei I learned that Bart was on the normal route, the Northeast Ridge, with all the other expeditions, and that he never went any higher than the camp at 7200m. He followed Alexei and Nickolay on their summit attempt, but gave up before them, and went back to base camp. Alexei was shocked when I showed him an article from a Dutch newspaper with a drawing of the East Face and Bart's new route. "There was no one there, there was no one there, "Alexei kept repeating, all the while making an erasing motion with his hand over the dotted line straight up through the East Face. Once back in St. Petersburg, Alexei sent me a translation of his brother's dairy (brother Nikolai was also a member of their team) in which the Russian's encounters with Bart are mentioned, and he sent me the dated photographs of Bart drinking vodka with the Russians in their ice cave in camp 2 (on 13 October, when according to his own account he was all alone in the East face). Alexei and Nickolay told me repeatedly that while on the mountain, and later that year during the annual meeting of St. Peterburg climbers, to which Bart was invited for having helped part of the Russian expedition through the snowstorm during the trek back, that Bart never even pretended to have reached the summit of Dhaulagiri, and that he would have to go back, a fourth time. But in Holland he gave a completely opposite story, claiming to have soloed up the East Face and reaching the summit on 17 October (when he was, according to the Russian diary, already on his way back down to Base Camp)."

  "I have nothing against Bart. I actually pity him. What kind of joy or satisfaction can he get from these false successes?"


  In March 2000, Vos brought legal proceedings against a Dutch newspaper, Algemeen Daqlbad, for an article it had just published written by Ms. Milja de Zwart, a Dutch journalist who had recently been investigating the credibility of Vos's climbing claims, in which she concluded he had not summited Everest and Dhaulagiri I. In April, the judge hearing his case ruled against Vos: "We will not sustain the demand to rectify because the indications Bart Vos didn't reach the summits (Dhaulagiri and Everest) are this strong, that it is not improper to disbelieve Bart Vos in public.
    "We refer to the fact that Vos changed his formerly firm claims on important subjects, such as dates, and in the end doesn't give a sound explanation of his activities and whereabouts during the climbs of Everest 1984 and Dhaulagiri 1996. Doing so, he admits he gave false statements at the time.
    "Everything considered, at this stage we think it very plausible on the ground of these investigations, the Algemeen Daqlbad could fairly conclude that Bart Vos's story doesn't fit. There are many contradictions, which hardly could be explained, except by assuming vos didn't reach the summits."
    Vos had the right to appeal this decision until 20 April, but did not do so, according to a fax to me from Milja de Zwart on July 19, 2000.


