# exped

expid: ANN169101
peakid: ANN1
year: 1969
route1: E Ridge
nation: W Germany
leaders: Ludwig Greissl
bcdate: 1969-04-02
smtdate: 1969-05-09
termdate: 1969-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 7485m (smt of Roc Noir) due to bad storms
othersmts: Climbed Glacier Dome (GLAC-691-01) and Roc Noir (ROCN-691-01)
campsites:
  BC(02/04,4300m),C1(09/04,5200m),C2(16/04,5900m),C3(22/04,6200m),C4(03/05,6500m),C5(07/05,7070m),C6(11/05,7250m),xxx(09,18/05,7485m)

routememo:
  Uwe Kerner - 12 June 69

  He hopes bring German Alpine Club expedition to Annapurna in 1971 to try either via north side Glacier Dome (where thinks weather would be better) or, if Nepal doesn't give permission for north, from South Annapurna Glacier, not West Annapurna Glacier thus avoiding dangerous area ice seracs below C3.

  Wants 6-7 members and 12 Sherpas
  Kerner, Greissl and Reismueller leave today, Reiter tomorrow
  Winkler left last Monday, the 9th June
  Mueller, Hanke, Obster and Schubert left yesterday to see Taj Mahal.


  Ludwig Greissl - 5 June 69

  Climbed Glacier Dome (Japanese 1964, Germans 1965) in 3 groups
  1)  4 May - Dr. Winkler
  2)  9 May - 6 members carrying loads Reismueller, Greissl, Mueller, Reiter, 
              Hanke and Kerner
  3) 18 May - 1st ascent by ski by Greissl and Reismueller (both on skis)

  Roc Noir climbed
  1)  9 May - Winkler, Obster and Schubert
  2) 18 May - Kerner and Mueller

  Skied on Glacier Dome from C5 at 7070m to 7142m peak took 40 minutes only by ski, then by ski down to C3 mostly by ski (not over icefalls)

  C1 - 5200m
  C2 - 5900m
  C3 - 6200m
  C4 - 6500m
  C5 - 7070m
  C6 - 7250m

  Plan: From C6 to [Annapurna I] summit in one day carrying small tents to sleep in on return in temporary C7; from C6 (just below summit Roc Noir) and back to C7 in 8 hours using oxygen last 1500 feet only as ridge very easy not deep snow: hard snow so could walk fast at same altitude.

  On 9th May and 18th May reached only 100m beyond Roc Noir summit on ridge; on both days good weather.

  9 May climbed Roc Noir and recognized ridge and turned back; on 9-10th night heavy wind started; Reismueller, Obster and Schubert in C6 stayed 3 days and then when wind stopped briefly and 3 went to C5; then all, except Hanke, Kerner, Mueller who were in C4, waited in C5 for wind to stop and waited until 18th May when wind stopped and "there was a hope" and on 18th Greissl and Reismueller climbed Glacier Dome; Schubert, Winkler, Reiter and Obster with 2 Sherpas Ang Temba and Ang Tharke went to C6 to sleep and [planned] to summit next day; Kerner and Mueller day before went to summit of Roc Noir to prepare route of fixed rope, so summit team could go more quickly; Kerner and Mueller to C5 on 17th. C4 had no heavy wind (heavy wind stopped at 6800m); on 18th Kerner and Mueller to summit Roc Noir to put in fixed rope from C6 to summit.

  Again night 18-19th heavy and cold wind came up; 2 Sherpas, Winkler and Obster could easily in am go down through to C5: other 2 Germans being a little late couldn't [go down] and stayed at camp; on 20th all went down because now all had slight frostbite in feet (Schubert more severe and had to be carried from base 2 days to Jamerang); other 2 (Reiter and Mueller) could walk; Obster slightly better than these on turn; all reached base camp by themselves but there warm and suffered; so high time to leave high camps because of feet and to leave mountain because of monsoon; had reached base 2 April and returned 22nd May; so in high camps from 5th (when C1 established) to 22nd. If 2 days without wind we would have done "it." This route makes sense.

  Not a single cloud, bright sun blue sky and we could do nothing but lie in tents.

  2nd night of storm, about 12th May, 2 tents torn apart by wind destroyed and those inside had to move to other tent and all sit up perhaps some others will come again on this route but not Greissl or Reismueller.

  Did not find difficulties expected: ridge going up and down and deep snow on north side but level, hard icy and could have done from C6 to east summit to C7 in 8-10 hours.

  From Middle summit to Main summit couldn't see.

  Very difficult icefall before Glacier Dome which had not been difficult in 1965; ice seracs falling were very dangerous and knew American expedition experience, so sent no Sherpas with reports through icefall while Germans climbing.

  From C6 to Roc Noir summit very steep and therefore difficult.

  Perhaps last 100m to East Summit difficult, but Middle Summit and route way between Middle and Main summit couldn't see.

  17 May 69

  29 April Baisak 17th Camp 4
  establish Annapurna
  21,500 ft

  5 Baisakh 23 Camp 5
  22,500 ft

  5 Baisakh 26 Camp 6
  24,760 ft

  Liaison officer
  message in letter 28th

  Baisakh 10 May
  Expect to establish Camp 7 (highest camp) in 2-3 days; now weather fine and members well.

  3rd May - Greissl to German ambassador received 9 May 1969

  5 days terrible weather which greatly hampered progress - 5 Sherpas still in C1 with Hanke.

  Tomorrow will go up; have all material necessary for peak in C3 and C4 so we are very confident to reach our goal but weather doesn't cooperate.

  We heard of terrible accident to Dhaulagiri expedition and sent our deep sympathy of our expedition. Since tragedy of Nanga Parbat in 1936 no such tragedy. Will make our way with doubled care.

  Glaciers are quite dangerous this year because of very little winter snow. Quite for from dangerous zone; way up we can do partly without fixed ropes.

  Other team spent snowy days 5000m in C3. Today 5 have moved to C4 6450m.

  ** Oxygen taken for use on Roc Noir in temporary C7.


  Letter from Ludwig Greissl - May 23, 1969

  Surely you wait since a long time for a new report from our expedition. To give this report was not possible because I did not send Sherpas from the higher camps down to the base camp through the glacier which becomes more and more dangerous. With walkie-talkie I gave only a message to our embassy, that Glacier Dome and Rock Noir were climbed by the expedition.

  I am sure that Mr. Capellmann informed you about this.

  Unfortunately I am not able to give you now good news. We did not get the hoped full success. A really terrible storm stopped our ascent only one day below the summit of Annapurna. This heavy storm was continous for more than one week. It tears some tents in our C5 (23,300ft) and C6 (24,000ft). The situation becomes critical after few days and this during a bright sun and a blue sky without any clouds.

  First we tried on May 13th to come 4 Sahibs and 2 Sherpas to the summit. Second in a storm pause on May 19th with another group of 4 Sahibs and the same 2 Sherpas. But the storm-pause was too short, we must return, before our feets and hands were frozen.

  Now I am very glad that all members, Sahibs and Sherpas, are healthy in the base camp again. It was bad luck for us one day before full success to be forced to return but on the other hand we must not come back with "empty hands." We were able to climb Glacier Dome (23,600ft) 3rd time in three groups (May 5th, 9th and 18th) and Roc Noir (24,800 ft) 1st time in two groups (May 9th and 18th). The last summit, the greatest success was failed.


expid: TUKU69101
peakid: TUKU
year: 1969
route1: N Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Georges Hartmann
sponsor: Swiss Nepal Expedition Thakkola 1969
approach: Pokhara->Kali Gandaki->Dhampus Pass
smtdate: 1969-05-10
smttime: 1330
campsites: BC,C1(09/05,6100m),W-Smt(10,14/05)
achievment: May have been earlier unofficial ascents by Japan (1965) and USA Peace Corps (1968)
routememo:
  Rene Collet - 2 Nov 79

  Swiss 1969 Spring went up Brenva Face (North Face) to "Junction Peak" and thence to West Summit, not to Main Summit of Tukuche.

  West summit about 6850m
  East summit       6950m
  Middle summit     6850m


  Dr. Hartmann - 16 April 69

  Leave KTM Thursday 17th, Pokhara Friday 18th. Arrive base camp 8 days later on Dambush Pass probably; will discuss on trail another approach to peak. Return to Pokhara after about 5 weeks.


  Hirsbrunner - 26 March 69

  Swiss ambassador says permit sent to expedition.

  Expect to arrive KTM April 11. Small mountain expedition to climb Tukuche 6915m, behind Dhaulagiri

  1) Leader Dr Georges Hartmann, Citizen Hospital, Basel, 40, single
  2) Dr Alfred Hitz, physician, Burgdorf, 40, married, 3 children
  3) Ruedi Homberger, photographer, Arosa, 29, married, 2 children 
  4) Alois Strickler, 44, single 
  5) A. P. Hirsbrunner, forest engineer - finished with UN, now on own in 
     KTM - home in Langnau, 39, married, no children
  All Swiss citizens

  Patron: Swiss Federation for Alpine Research, Zurich
  Sonam Girmi, head Sherpa


  Hartmann - 22 May 69

  Stay 3-4 days in KTM, all in KTM
  1st attempt on 10th May
  2nd attempt on 14th, successful by Hirsbrunner and Homberger

  Breitehorn - Hitz and Homberger to 6860m
  False summit - 6700m
  Basecamp southwest of Dambush Pass at 5100m.

  Peak Tukuche 6925m, difficult mountain, 4 days continuous snow at time of base camp - 29 April. Almost 1 meter of snow. 

  Met 2 Sherpas in Pokhara, ex-Germans and came to KTM on same plane; looking for porters here. Left expedition 3-4 days ago and expedition still trying. Porters to be sent from KTM.


  JOM Roberts - 24 March 69

  George Hartmann, Basel, Leader (was in Nepal)

  Arrive April 12
  5 party including Hartmann and Hirsbrunner
  Hirsbrunner of Trisuli watershed (forester)
  Tukuche pre-monsoon, Dhaulagiri area
  22,800 ft
  Received permission


  Letter from Hartmann - 5th May 1969

  Leaving Pokhara on 19 April with 30 Tibetan porters, which we could never engage again. We reached on 28 April an altitude of 4400m in the Dambush Valley where our friends forced to carry their loads further, although they were told in Pokhara, that there would be snow at this altitude. With our own forces we established a provisional base camp at an altitude of 4700m below the Dambush Pass. There were surprised and fixed by never expected snowstorm lasting continuously for more than 90 hours. 

  On May 3rd we could finally leave our job walking through almost 1 meter of newly fallen snow to the Dambush Pass beginning to establish our final BC west of the pass at 5100m. Today all material will reach the Base Camp. All members and Sherpas are well and enjoy the new beautiful weather.


  Letter from Hartmann - 13 May 69

  We selve were more favoured as you will know after establishing our Base Camp we explored the road to Tukuche Peak from northwest. After establishing a Camp 1 at 6100m, 2 members (Strickler and Hartmann) and 1 Sherpa climbed to the top May 10th in one day through a fine and classical but quite difficult ice road in the North Face. The summit was reached at 13:30. It is one of the most beautiful peaks these members have climbed (after climbs in the Andes, Hindu Kush, etc.).

  The same day 2 other members (A. Hitz and R. Homberger) climbed the so called "false summits" and then the so called "Breithorn" of the Tukuche massif.

  Today R. Homberger and A. Hirsbrunner make a second approach to Tukuche Peak. Meanwhile we begin to clear BC.

  Our liaison officer should have sent you the message our success by wireless station.


expid: KJRS69101
peakid: KJRS
year: 1969
route1: NW Ridge
route2: NE Ridge
route3: SE Ridge (to 5800m)
nation: UK
leaders: John Tyson
approach: Jumla->Mugu Karnali->Langu Khola->Dolphu
bcdate: 1969-05-12
smtdate: 1969-05-31
termnote: Abandoned due to bad weather and approaching monsoon
campsites: BC(12/05,3800m),C1,C2,C3,xxx(31/05,5800m)
routememo:
  Tyson - 11 July 69

  2 weeks to Dolphu, last place on route and then week really started. 1 week up gorge of Langu Khola [Namlang Khola] to Ruka Khola (unexplored). Few local hunters know this gorge and they only know of it. Here all ladders used for crossing Langu 5 times; really great success (1 crossing had 2 30 spurs). Up Ruku Khola.

  Next 3 weeks: attempts on 3 ridges on Kanjiroba (about 1 week each) 
  11-18 May
  19-25 May
  26-31 May

  NW Ridge tried first. Stopped where it became very thin ice fluting and partly because thought saw better way on NE Ridge, which looks very gentle but problem is to get on it. To get to ridge, had to make long circuit "through unexplored country" while making way up this icefall that "we had our worst experience on this expedition." "We were on a rocky ridge when we saw an enormous snow avalanche coming down the NW Face into the basin to the north of us. For about 1 minute we were totally enveloped and hardly able to breathe; my rucksack and hat were carried away; I recovered my toothbrush 3 weeks later." This size of the 22 May avalanche totally unexpectable which was 100-150 ft across and it came down and then up again. First 2 attempts were really directed towards lesser of 2 peaks and then would have had to go along ridge to higher main peak.

  3rd attempt carried on from same snowfield to SE Ridge. This the most important attempt - crossed great snowfield.

  In last attempt after avalanche continued up to about 19,000 ft. More ice fluting and tremendously narrow ridge where no space for putting camp or even standing on it and found cliff 3000 ft high leading down to head of Jagdula Khola. C3 3000 ft lower than C2. Crossed glacier here and attempted SE Ridge leading directly to main summit, but now started getting daily snowfall in monsoon's effects and rotting of snow. So now hopeless to try with no frost at night. Withdrew to Langu Khola in beginning June.

  Now in a way most exciting part: to get out of Langu, but river risen 3 feet. Still had all ladders and followed incredible river gorge eastwards. No tracks at all (at best hunter's path). Coolies came to party by path over rocks manageable only without packs. Took party 8 days continuous difficulty and danger especially from falling rocks and we made out last bridge with water very high (11 sect 5 each bridge and tree). This route never before followed by westerners. Another 15 days from Phijor to Pokhara; in Pokhara 10th July.

  Dean gone directly to India Pokhara/Bhairawa. Brown coming with ponies baggage to Pokhara and arrive KTM another 4 days and separate departure ex-Nepal.

  Langu 10,000 ft but had to cross 2 16,000 ft passes. All up and down.

  Special tributes to Sherpas especially as expedition slightly not normal type logistically; excellent liaison officer.

  We filled a big blank on the map and on one before has actively set foot on the mountain. Don't see mountain until halfway up Ruka Khola and yet highest mountain in Himalayas from Dhaulagiri to Saipal" (60 miles in each direction). "A most illusive mountain."

  Try again: SE Ridge is the best ridge to attempt probably in autumn.


  John Tyson, leader
  age:    41
  home:   Rugby
  prof:   schoolmaster
  married and 3 children
  3rd in Kanjiroba Himal; 1st time in Nepal 1953 in Api exploration

  Charles Clarke
  (arrive ex-Patna probably 13th)
  age:   25
  home Caldy, Cheshire
  profession - final year medical student at Guys Hospital, London
  unmarried
  leader of Cambridge Univ Himal Expedition

  Simon Brown
  age:   24
  home:  Goring by Sea, Sussex
  prof:  schoolmaster
  unmarried
  in Himalayas before in Kishtwar, Indian Kashmir, climbed in Yosemite and 
     explored in Greenland.

  Peter Dean
  age:  18
  student waiting to go up to Trinity College Cambridge in Oct 1970; 
     will do years teaching in Mayo.
  Home:  London
  unmarried

  Liaison - Capt Dil Bahadur Karki, officer.


  Barry Bishop - 2 April 69

  Bishop joining climbing with Tyson going into unexplored approach to Kanjiroba which Japanese considered impossible.

  Tyson in 1960 tried from south from Phoksumdo and got nowhere near base of mountain and next time south from Langu and again not successful in reaching mountain's base, so now from west further east to next drainage east and then south to mountain.

  No base camp; small flexible; primarily an exploration with carrot of mountain. Confident he can get to base of the mountain, but getting onto mountain is the problem.

  Leave Jumla 15-20 April (Twin others march in - 8-10 weeks getting in, exploring mountain possibilities and getting out to Pokhara (except Bishop).



  Barry Bishop - 19 Feb 69

  Kaniroba Main Peak not yet climbed successfully; will explore main peak approach from north.

  April-July climbing and scientific research.

  Tyson leader and 3 other Britons and Barry Bishop who doesn't know which part of expedition will actually be with. Doing geographical research in area and may combine forces with Tyson part of time.

  Mt Everest Fdn and Royal Geographical Society
  Climbers including Sir Patrick Dean's son Peter
  Jim Brown
  Dr. Clarke


expid: EVER69101
peakid: EVER
year: 1969
route1: SW Face (recon)
nation: Japan
leaders: Yoshihiro Fujita
sponsor: Japanese Alpine Club (JAC)
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1969-05-14
smtdate: 1969-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to approaching monsoon
campsites: BC(14/05,5400m),xxx(24/05,6500m)
routememo:
  4 members Japanese Everest recon team
  13 June 1969

  Up Y. couloir - which did know - whole face 75 degrees 80 - branch at 8000m; starts 6500m in Western Cwm; will need 2 camps, can use tents on small terraces, all way up to summit and bivouac tents.

  Some stone fall, so must be careful. Carrying loads? maybe summit new day now and all down and col.

  Leave 16 or 17 June 2nd recce party 7-8 members arrive end Aug for further study and acclimatization.

  Possible ski down 7000m to 6100m South Cwm but still big crevasse, must take off skies.

  Everest climb expedition will use 30 Sherpas and 15-17 climbing members. 

  Arrived base camp on 14th at 5350m just below icefall; from 15th planned to survey route through icefall and on 16th succeeded to reach point 5700m. On 17th succeeded to carry loads to 5700m and establish camp, written on 18th by Aizawa; [note] reached KTM ex-Lukla 24 May,  addressed to Matsuzawa of Japanese embassy. 

  Aizawa and Sugasawa reached base on 16th May.


  MFA - 19 May 69
  ex-Namche

  Japanese expedition led Yoshihiro Fujita reached base C1 at 11:30 am. 1 member Toyozo Sugasawa taken ill and returned to Lobuche from Gorak Shep, accompanied by Fumi Aizawa. Katoyama tourist also reached base camp.


  Uemura - 28 April 69

  Arrived 24 April in KTM - reconnaissance for years pre-monsoon Japan Alpine Club Everest expedition. 4 members in reconnaissance:

  Captain Y. Fujita
          H. Aizawa
          N. Uemura
          T. Sugasawa

  Was on Japan Himalayan expedition to Cho Oyu in 1965 (Meiji University expedition) and Uemura was summiter same expedition.

  Will fly Lukla - don't know yet when; hope get permission tomorrow before monsoon; want to go to 6500m and examine South Face; from there to decide where possible route will be again reconnaissance in past - monsoon 10 members and then test equipment and make route on lower portion of South Face - may be same people, may not.


  Fujita - 29 April 69

  Will return from reconnaissance to KTM about June 10th; will send mailrunner to Uemura and Japanese embassy: every 10 days. Fujita will be members of 14-member expedition next spring.


expid: KANB65301
peakid: KANB
year: 1965
route1: NW Face
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Joze Govekar
sponsor: Mountaineering Club Ljubljana
approach: Dharan->Ghunsa->Ramtong Glacier (BC)
smtdate: 1965-10-14
termdate: 1965-10-18
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to frostbite and cold conditions
campsites: BC(4900m),C1(5400m),C2(5800m),C3(6300m),C4(6800m),C5(13/10,7050m),Biv(14/10,7600m),xxx
routememo:
  Govekar - 25 Nov 65

  12 Oct Sazonov and Dimitrov: 2nd time attempt on summit with Girme Dorje and Dakiya.

  7 Oct Juvan, Humar, Girme Dorje and Walung Dorje Sherpa: 1st attempt from C4 reached 7535m minor summit 2 km along ridge southeast of main peak; minor peak very steep and high wind prevented reaching main peak.

  So 2nd attempt traversed below minor summit and from C5 reached ridge at point well northwest of main peak, but still too far from main peak point on ridge 7600m. Sazonov received frostbite one finger causing amputation 1st joint from tip. Bivouacked all night at 7600m - wind 60-70 km/hr and -17 degrees at night. Weather defeated them.

  18th Oct evacuation base camp and 21st from Ghunsa to Dharan arriving Dharan 2nd Nov.

  Tried via West Face; very steep and impossible with so much snow, but less snow Ok; wants to try again. Next time 2 more good Sherpas (this time only 7 including cook and several were ailing).

  Dimitrov had temporary frostbite both toes and fingers. Oxygen equipment froze.

  Govekar returns to Biratnagar tomorrow and Yugoslavia soon via Calcutta. Sazanov is in Biratnagar; all others have gone to Yugoslavia. Govekar received extra funds today.

  Ramtang Glacier: base camp site at 4900m

  S. P. Rai = liaison officer


  Girme Dorje - 11 Nov 65

  Metod Humar and Dr. Andrej Zupancic came to Kathmandu; rest in Dharan waiting for money to be sent then as arranged by 2 who came to Kathmandu and went on to NDH.

  2nd attempts made on Kangbachen: 1st reached main peak on same ridge above C4, turned back because 4 climbers didn't realize loads had been dumped for a C5. 5 days later 2nd attempt made from a C5 but got no further than col below peak where 2 members bivouacked 1 night (and got slight frostbite) while 2 Sherpas went down to C5. Much snow, cloud and strong wind; avalanche danger; leader decided to retreat.

  No other mountain climbed. Leader got only to C3.


  SP Rai (LO) - Oct 17

  7460m, 13th Oct.

  2 members and 3 Sherpas tried again, but because of bad weather and exhaustion got only to 7460m. The 2 members have frostbitten fingers.


  Zupanac and Govekar - 8 Aug 65

  Zupanac and Govekar leave KTM about Aug 5th for Biratnagar where meet others; from there expedition to Dharan.

  Leave Dharan 12-14th August, 20 days march to base via Ghunsa (checkpost). 

  Recon party ahead to decide which faster: Ramtang or Kangchenjunga glacier for approach. Base at about 5000m on one of these glaciers.

  8 Sherpas; Pasang Phutar, sirdar ex-Darjeeling

  3 weeks for acclimatization and would like to climb in Oct if possible when weather apparently best. Clear base by Nov 15 at least.

  Don't know how many will return to Kathmandu, but some at least will.

  Emergency communication with Kathmandu through clid radio at checkpost of Ghunsa; mail in and out via Gogbani chd.

  Dr. Bujevic their contact in Kathmandu.


  Letter from J Roberts - 21 Dec 65

  Despite their apparently good records in Europe, Girme had poor opinion of their abilities in the Himalaya.

  When I asked him to compare them with Lute [Jerstad], Barry [Bishop], well he just laughed out right.

  Sherpas led all the way on the 2nd attempt.

  After climb of point 7535m Juvan and Humar got the hell out of it, down to the nearest village, saying they had "done their duty."

  At base there was much flexing of muscle and talk of the summit. On the mountain keeness evaporated.


expid: ANN165101
peakid: ANN1
year: 1965
route1: E Ridge
nation: W Germany
leaders: Guenter Hauser
sponsor: German Alpine Association
bcdate: 1965-04-06
termdate: 1965-06-03
primid: GANG65101
othersmts:
  Climbed Gangapurna (GANG-651-01), Glacier Dome (GLAC-651-01) and Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak) (THAR-651-01)


expid: GANG65101
peakid: GANG
year: 1965
route1: E Ridge from S
nation: W Germany
leaders: Guenter Hauser
sponsor: DAV (German Alpine Association) Gangapurna Expedition
ascent1: 1st,2nd
approach: Pokhara->Modi Khola->Annapurna Sanctuary (BC)
bcdate: 1965-04-06
smtdate: 1965-05-06
smttime: 1435
termdate: 1965-06-03
campsites: BC(06/04,3750m),C1(4300m),C2(5000m),C3(5700m),C4(6200m),C5(05/05,6800m),Smt(06,08/05)
othersmts:
  Climbed Glacier Dome (GLAC-651-01) and Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak) (THAR-651-01); permit for Annapurna I (ANN1-651-01)

routememo:
  German Expedition - 6 Oct 65

  Left base 3rd and reached Pokhara 9th and Kathmandu today, all 8 members. Hauser's frostbite: ends of toes still have no feeling but discoloration gave and expects full recovery. Plan stay Kathmandu abut one week. Perhaps Dr. goes to Simre to collect customs money and meet others Bombay.


  27 May 65

  Jimmy Roberts informed by Sherpa returned from delivering food loads to German expedition that coolies have been ordered for leaving new base camp June 4th.

  New base camp is 3/4 day from old camp.

  Message to Jeske dated 20th: reached C1 on 19th 4500m and site for C2 found already. Leave base for return June 5. Fly from Pokhara 12 June.


  Gangapurna camps

  Base camp - 3750m
  Camp 1    - 4300m
  Camp 2    - nearly 5000m
  Camp 3    - 5700m
  Camp 4    - 6200m
  Camp 5    - 6800m


  Letter from Guenter Hauser - 7 June 1965

  Successfully climbed the Glacier Dome on the 29th of May 11 o'clock. The following five members and one Sherpa reached the summit: Dr. Klaus Ekkerlein, Ludwig Greisl, Erich Reismueller, Otto Seibold, Herbert Wuensche and Kippa Sherpa.

  19th in an altitude of 4550m, C2 on the glacier in 5250m, C3 in 5700m, C4 in 6300m. As I have already written to you we run out of ice pitons and this was our big problem. For that reason the Glacier Dome became much more difficult as it really is. The icefall the Japanese did between 5500m and 5800m we could not manage without pitons; in 5700m we had to return. On the right-hand of the icefall we were looking for another route. We pitched C3 on the upper glacier below the summit. We climbed a very steep snow wall of about 60 degrees, reached a steep ridge on which we went up. At the end of the ridge we could cross between big ice towers to the broad summit ridge above the icefall. Here we were again on the Japanese route. The last trip to the summit was more difficult than one could imagine from downwards: there were steep snowslopes with permanent avalanche danger. But after 4 hours they were on the big platform of the summit. They had a very good sight specially to the eastern ridge which leads to Annapurna I. This was one of the main reasons we climbed Glacier Dome to explore a route to Annapurna I at least: unfortunately we had no time to go further. Some more camps wold be necessary, a good transport system and oxygen. They put the flags of Nepal and Germany and they took photographs alround and film too.

  In the meantime we all are in the base camp. We shall leave it on the 5th of June when 40 porters arrive.


  Letter from Guenter Hauser - 25 May 65

  After the trouble with the Sherpas, we started again to pitch camps in the direction of Glacier Dome. But it was clear that the time was too limited to reach Annapurna I via Glacier Dome and East Ridge. Furthermore some of the members myself were handicapped by frostbitten feet; moreover 4 tents were lost and other broken and more camps than at Gangapurna would be required. So we decided to try our best at Glacier Dome in order to have a look at the East Ridge may be for a few expedition. Now we have 3 camps pitched (C1 = 4550m C2 = 5200m, C3=5700m) and one on the way to solve the main problem, a 300m high  icefall. But we have not one single ice pitons left - we would would only need 5-10 and this fact may cause our return. But nevertheless, Glacier Dome is not important mountain and still Gangapurna was the real success. I made a bit survey with or Theodolite in order to improve the map at Southern. For this reason I climbed with Herman Kollensperger and Sherpa Phurba Kitar the Tent Peak yesterday. We pitched a high camp on 5400m and reached the summit over a very steep but beautiful ridge. Col Roberts gives its height - as far as I remember will nearly 6000m but an altimeter showd 5550m. The panorama is in my opinion one of the most beautiful in the world; all round there is one summit after the other end nicer than the other before. I hope the Nepalese Govt will not be to [upset].


  Letter from BC - 11 May 65

  We have climbed Gangapurna. After an ascent which was more difficult as expected we have reached the summit in two groups, the first at the 6th of May 2.35 pm, and the second at the 8th of May 10:20 am. It was possible in spite of the difficult route to get all 8 members and 3 Sherpas out of 8 to the summit.

  The first group consisted:
  1  Guenter Hauser 
  2. Ludwig Greisl 
  3. Hermann Kollensperger 
  4. Erich Reismueller 
  5. Ang Temba (Sardar) 
  6. Phudorje (Sherpa)

  The second group: 
  1. Herbert Wuensche 
  2. Otto Seibold 
  3. Karl Heinz Ehlers 
  4. Dr. Klaus Ekkerlein 
  5. Pemba Norbu (Sherpa)

  We had some difficulties as you partly know: we had to start later and then only with half of the equipment, one quarter arrived later and the last quarter after the ascent. Especially much snow this spring caused that we had to carry all the luggage from Hingu, one day's march before the base camp, to the base camp by 8 members, 8 Sherpas and 5 low altitude porters. The base camp is only 3750m high. This means that the south face of Gangapurna is very high and steep a bit dangerous by avalanches. We were searching for the securest route, of course. C1 we put on the top of a moraine because that was the only sure place, so it seemed to us. Height 4300m. Far below the Col between Gangapurna and Annapurna III in nearly 5000m we pitched C2. It stood on the foot of a big icefall. We found a complicated route through the icefall and above it a platform like a balcony in the South Face. Here we pitched C3 in 5700m. It was the best camp place since one could see the whole southern Annapurna range. The C3 was not yet occupied as new snowfall caused a avalanche beginning about 2000m above C1 at one of the mountains next to Machhapuchhare. It was in the morning of 21st of March. The pressure of the avalanche went through the 100m deep valley before the moraine and like an explosion a big tent flew at least 50m in the sky, crossed the top of the moraine and flew some hundred meters upon the eastern Annapurna Glacier. The Sherpas ahd one hour to go to meet it. Nobody was injured only some food was lost. From C3 we had to pass under the Col. A 400m high icewall was leading to the Col, this was the most difficult part. But it was also not easy to find the way under the col and a place for C4. The face below Annapurna III and Gangapurna was steep with large ice towers on the top. Only one place under a small icewall seemed to be sure for a camp. But in the night the strong high wind blew snow on the tents so that the members could not sleep since the snow covered the tents completely in the course of the night. The next day they could do nothing except fighting against the snow and so in the second night. But there was no better place.

  The 400m high icewall to the Col was a big problem. We had to pitch fixed ropes in order to carry loads for C5 up and to be able to go back independent of weather. We worked 7 days at the icewall and each day we were thinking to get the Col. But every afternoon the weather became more or less bad, strong high wind or thunderstorm and sometimes ater many hours ascent up to the returning place of the day before the weather became terrible. On the eighth day we went earlier but this meant danger of frostbite. In fact I became frostbitten at the feet as I finished the last meters to the Col, but we had the Col now and the frostbite are not to dangerous. This was the 5th of March. The tents which were hanging since days in the icewall could be carried up and pitched. The icewall had about 55 degrees. At the 6th we left the C5 at 8 o'clock and climber over the east ridge of Gangapurna. It was technically not very difficult but it was hard to make the steps. Over a first summit we got to the main summit as it stated in the beginning. The weather became very worse, the snow was blown horizontally over the summit. In that situation our Sardar Ang Temba did an excellent work in leading us down. Both Sherpas were very good. Other days we as the first group went down and the second group came up and climbed the summit. In return each group watched the other in case of emergency.


  Letter from Guenter Hauser - 29 April 1965

  The second trip with Ang Temba and 50 porters have arrived and we have persuaded the porters to go just over the snow line which is about two hours before one reaches the base camp. With our 5 low altitude porters we carry the loads to the base camp.

  In the meantime we have all Sherpas in the base camp carrying loads to C1. At the moment 6 members are on the way from C1. Yesterday C2 was pitched, tomorrow they prepare the way to C3. C2 is in 4900m height. The way to C3 is more difficult going up through a icefall sometimes steep.


expid: DHA265101
peakid: DHA2
year: 1965
route1: E Ridge from N
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiroshi Sugita
sponsor: All Japan Himalayan Expedition
bcdate: 1965-05-03
smtdate: 1965-05-10
termdate: 1965-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 5400m due to accident and deep snow conditions
campsites: BC(03/05,3900),C1(06/05,4700m),C2(07/05,4850m),C3(09/05,5300m),xxx(10/05,5400m)
accidents: 2 Sherpas killed by avalanche while scouting for base camp site
routememo:
  Peter Cross - Nov 71

  A Japanese expedition's to one of the Dhaulagiri's in 1965 made 1st ascent of Tukuche, according to PCV's (Peace Corps volunteers) attempting Tukuche in 1960's.


  Sugita (leader)

  All 8 leave KTM after 1 week arrive Tokyo 1st July; perhaps leave KTM in 2 parties. Arrived base camp May 15 and advance party carrying injured Sherpa left base May 18 and on Kathmandu June 1. 2nd party on Kathmandu 10th via South route via Dhorpatan to see route for next time. Main party of luggage left base May 22nd arrive ex-Pokhara yesterday evening by a longer route.

  Only one route up Dhaulagiri II because very high icewall; along ridge on north side of Dhaulagiri from east to south this ridge very difficult: much snow and glacier wall at 5200m height very sharp ridge like knife-edge - expedition's C3, highest camp, at 5200m having crossed ridge. Accident May 10 to Sherpa stopped expedition's further advance (C7 planned to be highest). On May 10th only Sherpas making route towards C4 site on unscheduled climb; injured Sherpa not using crampon and this main reason his fall not far above C3.

  Expedition stopped:

  1) much delayed in searching base camp site 66 days because of much snow.
  2) lost Sherpas: 2 already lost on approach march by avalanche and now 
     a 3rd from only 6 total, so sirdar asked stop and now have carry down 
     patient took 10 days bring him over glaciers down to base.

  5400m highest point expedition reached on mountain; all members and all Sherpas reached C3, but at accident time leader at base.


  Oki, Vice leader - 10 June 65

  Oki and Osama arrived ex-Pokhara, rest maybe tomorrow.

  5600m (Mul La on approach march) highest point by all members and all Sherpas [except for two killed in avalanche]. 

  Were above C3 (C4 never made); above here steep snow face and accident to Sherpa who came to hospital; so stopped and all members and Sherpas helped bring down.

  All members stay 4-5 days; mgr and transport chief stay 2 weeks and Oki also.


  Sherpa - 2 June 65

  Sherpa? Dorje present when accident occured.

  Highest expedition got was 2 hours above C3 5000m, then 2nd accident occurred while making route above C3 to Sherpa about 15 days-2 weeks ago. Jhamang Tenzing fell and hurt back and ankle so manager and doctor brought him and 4 other Sherpas by RNAC ex-Pokhara yesterday; rest of expedition after 1 week; turned back because new very deep snow and too many accidents.


  Message from leader (received yesterday)

  Establish C1  6th
      "     C2  7th
  probably 8th 3rd camp

  Try attempt peak 25 May; return Kathmandu mid-June. Late May [for summit] because took so long getting base camp.

  Both Sherpas bodies found April 10th according to Himalayan Society.


  14 April 1965

  Two Sherpas by the name of
   
    Mingma Tenzing
    Lhakpa Gelbu 

  have died by being caught in avalanche when they had gone out to scout towards their base camp. They were at a place 2 days from Sangda and 9-10 days away from their base camp according to the liaison officer for Dhaulagiri II.


  Sangda - 8th April 65

  Reached Dangarjung on the 8th of March. Delayed at Dangarjung by some festivals and heavy snowfall. Couldn't make any progress until the 29th and having started for Sangda on the 29th. They reached it on the 2nd of April.

  Heavy snowfall has been preventing them from making any progress. Not as yet been able to reach base camp. Snow too deep for porters as well as yaks.

  The expedition feels that because of the bad weather they will be unable to return on the assigned date. 

  Letter was written by the leader from Sangda. The mailrunner brought it yesterday around the late afternnon).


  Letter from Hiroshi Sugita - May 18

  On 10th May Jhamang Tenzing slipped by mistake, for not using the steel crampons in a glaciated traverse between C3 and C4 on the glacier of East Churen Khola and got fracture of his bones, waist and right leg. C3 (5200m) was established on a glacier inside of Chorten ridge.

  Jhamang Tenzing was rescued by the members and some Sherpas and lifted down from C3 to the Base Camp in Mukutgaon.

  They had to give up climbing for two reasons. One is that they were already (about 40 days) late in reaching the base camp due to heavy snowfall. The other reason is the human and sympathetic attitude that other members bore towards the injured leader.


expid: LSHR65101
peakid: LSHR
year: 1965
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hisao Yoshikawa
sponsor: Waseda University Alpine Club
bcdate: 1965-03-14
smtdate: 1965-05-12
termdate: 1965-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 8150m due to impassable gap in route
accidents: Narikawa injured from fall
campsites:
  BC(14/03,5350m),C1(28/03,5850m),C2(03/04,6350m),C3(08/04,6650m),C4(17/04,7050m),C5(11/05,7300m),xxx(12/05,8150m)

routememo:
  Narikawa - 29 May 65

  Murai high altitude tiredness. 
  3 members walking and 3 waiting Lukla 31st
  Walking from Lukla yesterday

  18th April accident: climbing above 7000m and fell. Yoshikawa was with him making route. Narikawa's rock hammer hit piton and small snow avalanche harder are foot and he fell into steep gully (150m fall) but was roped and rope stopped fall. Yoshikawa had to get help from C3 because unable get him out of gully alone. Yoshikawa went to C4 no one there, then went into gully and tied Narikawa and went to C3; met Murai between C3 and C4. 

  Murai (button thread company from Tokyo) got altitude sickness 30 April; at about 7000m when got sick.


  Inokuchi - 29 May 65

  Most difficult part of climb (when last attack had good weather and no trouble). C3 to C4 extremely steep and covered by new snow, so tried to traverse but that too very difficult. About 3200m fixed rope between base and C5; about 1/3 of this between C3 and C4.

  Could have succeeded by this rotate via SW Ridge (which his few avalanches) if hadn't lost time, etc because of Narikawa accident. C5 was established at 7300m; one more reached at about 7800-7900m.

  Kobayashi visited base when Narikawa was in C2.

  Trying to go from C4 to C5 at about 7000m trying climb rock face and Narikawa slipped and fell about 50m - knocked senseless. Yoshikawa was with Narikawa and came to C4 for help and while was away unconscious Narikawa lost glove. From C4 to C2 took 10 days to bring Narikawa down because extremely steep alternately ice and rock and couldn't properly pitch tent. 1 member Murai who was helping bring him down because unable walk perhaps from shock. All members involved helping down most got slight frostbite of fingers. Narikawa bad frostbite both feet and both hands (about 28, unmarried). If accident hadn't happened could have reached summit. This main cause of failure. When Narikawa was in C2 he told others leave him, he's getting better and go climb mountain; they got to 8150m.


  Liaison officer - 26 May (from Namche ?)

  Lhotse Shar expedition unable reach summit because of bad weather. Left base for Kathmandu May 23rd. May 15th reached C5 with 2 members. Matsuura and Inokuchi and Sherpas Nawang and Phinjo reached 8150m from C5.


  22 May 65 - message from Home

  Hamano in Lukla - 3 members cannot walk. They are trying to get Swiss plane from them - have not yet left base camp rest arrive Lukla 27th and want plane. Will wait 28-31st May - 12 members.


  Dated May 4 - received yesterday from liaison officer

  C4 established at 7100m May 4. Will have to establish 2 more camps and leave base May 15 for return. Member who was injured - severe frostbite of both fingers and toes, a few others slight frostbite. Narikawa to go to Namche Bazar, unable to walk.

  Weather bad - 2nd and 3rd strong blizzard.


expid: ANN165201
peakid: ANN1
year: 1965
route1: Reconnaissance
nation: Iran
routememo:
  Permitted to trek ex-Pokhara to basecamp of Annapurna I; permit granted 1-1/2 months ago (first week of June) 6th or later.

  Had with them 1 Sherpa, Ang Tsering of Khumjung, a cook.

  Collected application for form for autumn permit for Annapurna I for '67 early this week from For Ministry.

  Left KTM for Pokhara June 7th - left Kathmandu for India by road July 20th. 

  Climbed unnamed 6200m peak in Annapurna range in course of reconnaissance of Annapurna I.

  2-3 months ago Rimal refused permission for application from them for 4 peaks. Rimal says Foreign Ministry will ignore their unauthorized climb since peak very small and doesn't want to harm developing relations with clean slate at this time.

  Dr. Pran Nath Nath of Putali Sadak who knew Iranian Dr. said Akbar had dislocation injury and was several days in Pokhara hospital but well by time left KTM.


  Ang Tsering of Khumjung (cook) - 23 July 65

  8 day's trek to Muktinath; there delayed 2 days getting new porters who would go to high altitudes. Iranian members went on ahead to top of hill which was foot of mountain they climbed; he met them there and they established base camp a little higher in snow (1 day's trek from Boubok Lekh); he was told to stay in camp while 4 members climbed from 10 am on June 21st; he did not see them reach top because of intermittent fog but at 4 pm saw them coming down from top; when saw them going up saw them climbing by rock, avoiding deep snow areas - coming down, half-way, at 7 pm, doctor fell into crevasse and so deep if hadn't been roped would have fallen for rope caught his arm and stuck for 1 hour; others called him to come and help bring Dr. down and he managed to reach them in dark and without markers at 10 pm; finally reached camp at midnight.

  From camp went to village Narsongaon and there advised to return to Bambok Lekh which did and returned to Pokhara in 13 days from camp.

  Members reached Pokhara 2 days ahead of him; day after he arrived they flew to Kathmandu.

  He thinks they reached summit although didn't actually see them there. They showed him photos in Kathmandu, taken on summit.

  Autumn Mana where should have gone on to Annapurna base camp, on 10th day from Pokhara, members said let's go east and climb small peak. When he said a Japanese expedition had been fined for an unauthorized climb, then said their permit allowed them to go to 20,000 ft and this peak just about that altitude so he need not worry.

  When he saw them they were only about 15 minutes climb below summit. They were certainly very near top when he could see them.

  He stays in Kathmandu till time to go with Yugoslavs to Kangbachen with Lhotse Shar sirdar Pasang from Darjeeling.


expid: DHA665301
peakid: DHA6
year: 1965
route1: W Face from S
nation: UK
leaders: John R. Sims
sponsor: British Royal Air Force Dhaulagiri Expedition
bcdate: 1965-09-19
smtdate: 1965-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to windslab avalanche
othersmts: Climbed Ghustang North (GHUN-653-01)
campsites:
  BC(19/09,4025m),GlacierBC(25/09,4725m),C1(30/09,5360m),C2.ABC(05/10,5800m),C3(14/10,6200m),xxx(15/10,6400m)

routememo:
  Party believed that that were on Dhaulagiri IV when actually they were on Dhaulagiri VI - 14 Nov 65

  Chose West Ridge; any subsequent expedition would do well; most direct, probably also least technical difficulty and in good season probably offers best snow condition.

  Summit party: 
    Mann
    Wilkinson
    Addis
    Sims
    Mingma Tsering
    Nima Tenzing

  On Oct 14 C3 established 20,400 ft and from this 6-man team to make summit assault [after establishing C4,] but very next day the 2 Sherpas had their avalanche and decision taken not to press on. Descent on Oct 20th, Mann started avalanche, but holding on fixed rope and was roped to another member and no disaster, but from then on descent "rather desperate" and took 2 days instead of normal 4-1/2 hours; during this period Mann hit by snowblindess.

  "Its a mountain that will most certainly be climbed, not difficult at all really, ... and West Face route is the way up."


  Swiss radio - 10:00, 29 Oct 65

  Camp 3 established on moraine 15th Oct up above 21,000 ft. Snow condition and bad weather. All members well hope arrive Pokhara by 15th Nov. Report force by runner to Pokhara and by next Swiss flight.


  22 Oct 65

  3 feet snow down to 10,500 ft; had terrible time to Dhorpatan ex-base camp, so says Schlatten to Spohr on radio this morning; no members in base camp when Schlatten there, but he was told all were waiting in higher camps for weather to clear and peak attempt must be postponed. 


  Swiss - 2 Sept 65

  "Won't be easy; there will be a few technical difficulties, but aside from these, the difficulty will be organization on five-mile high mountain."

  Will take oxygen, 24 cylinders in 6 sets; 25,000 feet not high enough to need it except as emergency medical safeguard or perhaps for good nights sleep.

  Base camp just above tree line on snout of Ghustang Khola Glacier; 5 or 6 camps above base Swiss thinks; (JOM) Roberts thinks 4. Start moving up mountain Sept 20 or 21 (based on expectation re monsoon end). 6 weeks to establish camps and stock them; assault any time thereafter depending on weather and fitness within 2 more weeks.


  Gustang Himal North Peak 
  Route: north side

  Ascent:
  17 Oct - Peter Addis
           John Hinde        
  18 Oct - Trevor Mann
           Robin Wilkinson


  Letter from John (BC) - 28 Oct

  But apart from three avalanches: Mingma Tsering (sirdar) and Nima Tenzing on 15 Oct at 20,500 ft on way up: Trevor and Pete Addis at 19,000 ft and 18,500 ft on 20 Oct between C2 and C1 on way down held by fixed ropes and Trevor Mann snow blind 21/22nd Oct, and frostbite to toes of several: Mingma, Nima Tenzing, Nima Dorje and Robin W and slightly to Pete A and one or two others between 15th and 21st. None of these troubles led to anything permanent or serious. Apart from these we escaped.

  The storm up to 3 ft snow; that made our journey difficult, also hit Jak Schlatten and sister Margaret, etc, who had come to our BC. They were on these way home.


  Letter from JOMR - 20 Oct

  I am sending you John Sims letter of 16 Oct announcing failure on Dhaulagiri 6. I shall fill in some gaps in this letter. The radio message will hope have received before this. It's snowing hard here at Base and has been for about last 24 hours. There is about 2 feet of snow on the ground and it is out of question sending a runner to Dhorpatan in these conditions. I fear they will be having a tough time getting off the mountain. More probably they are staying but for the time being in Camp 2 (but it does snow less on the mountain than down here - strangely enough). 25 Sept Sims and others - actually occupied glacier Base - 15,500 ft which had been stocked during past week.

  26 Sept: This has been a mighty queer "post monsoon." But from this day there was an improvement in weather that had never been really bad (apart from 2/3 days) since early September. The fine spell lasted (and never quite so fine as the traditional "post monsoon.") We seldom saw the afternoon sun for about 12 days. After this afternoon storms began to blur up and the weather has steadily deteriorated since into a season higher remniscent of winter. I have a doubt another fine spell will yet occur. It will have to if we are to extricate ourselves back to Ktm.

  But it will be too late - for our purpose of climbing D6 (unless the conditions are much better on the mountain than here in the Base which I doubt.

  So much for the seasons weather. Normally the whole of October is a fine, good month for the climbing. There are of course cold winds.

  29 Sep - first carry to near site of camp following making of route 
           through 500-foot icefall above glacier base. Some difficult
           pitches. Route made by Mann, Wilkinson and Sims.
  30 Sep - site of C1 - 17,600 reached steep glacier route from the top
           of the icefall initially involving much step-cutting in hard ice.
  3 Oct  - Mann and Wilkinson to near site of C2 - much steep snow and 
           ice slope - but easier going than below.
  3 Oct  - Bennett, Addis and Hinde occupied C1.
  4 Oct  - Ward and Roberts and 3 Sherpas joined the above trio who had
           made first carry to C2, 19,000 ft - same mornings
  5 Oct  - the above 5 and 3 Sherpas occupied C2 = Advance Camp.
  6 Oct  - Bennett not feeling well and descended to glacier Base.
  7 Oct  - Addis and Hinde started making trail across the glacier basin
           towards C3.

  Meanwhile carries continued Glacier Basin to C1 and C1 to C2.

  8  Oct - Ward and Roberts reached 20,200 ft on Ghustang Peak (21,000). Turned
           back by bad weather and tiring snow conditions (1, 2 ascents Oct 1962).
  11 Oct - Addis and Nima Tenzing followed by Ward and Roberts made route to 
           within few hundred feet or proposed site for C3. Addis and Nima Tenzing
           reached down 20,000 ft. No particular difficulties but long horizontal 
           traverse from C2 across the glacier began to foot of the west face of D4 
           through soft snow, very tiring.
  11 Oct - Sims and Bull of party came to C2 to stay .
  12 Oct - Sims and most Sahibs and Sherpas carried to site of C3. Bird and 
           Hinde (who had been unfit since about 7 Oct and who had descended to 
           glacier Base to recuperate). Mail to C2, from C1 and returned to C1.
  13 Oct - Sims more food required from Glacier Base, so Roberts went down to 
           C1 to relieve Hinde who were more recovered and then down to Great Basin 
           with Bird, to fetch up food. 
  14 Oct - Sims, Mann, Wilkinson, Addis, Mingma and Nima Tenzing.
  16 Oct - support group Ward, Hinde, Russell and 3 Sherpas to C3.
  16 Oct - all returned to C2.
  17 Oct - Bird and Roberts had been in glacier Base with Bennett (still unfit) 
           and the kitchen boy, Ang Namgyal. After 2 abortive attempts (earlier 
           Sherpas failed) B and R. and Ang Namgyal (wearing Bennetts boots and 
           crampons) got properly started up the glacier above the icefall. At about 
           12 noon at 16,500 ft they met 17th Oct one Sherpa (Ang Nima). Roberts and
           A. Namgyal dumped their load of food and went down with the news to GB. 
           Bird and Ang Nima went up to Camp to find out what was happening.
  18 Oct - Robert and A.N. to Base. Schlatten of SATA Dhorpatan and another Swiss
           from there and more Sister Margaret had 10:30 that morning having a 2-night 
           stop at Base with Captain Nar Bahadur. I fear the snow fall gave them a 
           tough journey to Dhorpatan. Began to snow like Christmas about 6 pm.
  19 Oct - snow all night and all day till 3 pm. No question of sending runner 
           to Dhorpatan - still night, cloudy, no snow.
  20 Oct - had snow again from 10 am - must stay but though I do not dismiss 
           possibilities of someone coming down here from G.B. 


  Letter from Dicky -  Oct 23 Glacier Camp

  The more from BC (13,200 ft) of to Glacier Camp was made on 25th Sept by Sims, Wilkinson and Mann. All members apart from NB were established in Glacier Camp by 29th Sept. In this period we had the last storm of the monsoon, when the night of 27th Sept we had some 3 inches of snow at BC. Since that time the weather had remained good with slight cloud build-up by 16:00 hours. In the early morning we have felt the cold northerly wind from the Tibetan plateau and the nights have been decidedly chilly from Sept.

  On the 30th Sept the site of C1 was set up some 2/3 the way up the side glacier. This camp was occupied by Hinde, Addis and Bennett on 3rd October. Also on 3rd Oct Mann and Wilkinson got through to the proposed site of C2 at about 19,000 ft and had the first look at the final now basin that leads directly to the high ridge between D4 and Gurja. A now a few minutes out from the ridge into the basin and with C3 established at its foot, we hope to gain the col at about 22,000 ft on the final ridge.

  The site of C4 will be somewhere in this area and it is possible that a C5 will be needed on the final high summit ridge which must be all of 5 miles long from D4 to Gurja.

  It is possible that Gurja may also be joined from this ridge by climbing south instead of north, but Trevor Mann has observed that the last 500 ft of Gurja look steep enough to provide quite a problem.

  During the next few days C2 to be now as Advanced Base, will be fully stocked in order to mount a 15 day summit attempt. It is hoped that all members will make C1 in the next 3 days and C2 in the next week.

  Our Sherpas are 1st class but unfortunately Tenzing has gone down with pneumonia here at Glacier Camp. He is mending well under the good hands of Bill Russell and will go down to Base Camp tomorrow to rest and fully recover.

  For our tentative return plans it seems that the week of 22nd Nov is still good for our departure from Kathmandu. The march out will be via Gurjakhani and Lumsum to Pokhara. The question of marching out via Tukuche has not been decided.

  We have heard on our radio that the situation between India and Pakistan is slowly improving and the hope is that a stable position will have been reached by the time we want to fly out. I hope the mail and air freight is once again reliable enough for our films to go out. If not, far better to hold them until our return to prevent their being lost.


expid: EVER65101
peakid: EVER
year: 1965
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: M. S. Kohli
sponsor: Indian Mount Everest Expedition
ascent1: 8th-11th
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1965-03-22
smtdate: 1965-05-20
smttime: 0930
termdate: 1965-06-01
campsites:
  BC(22/03,5425m),C1(27/03,6100m),C2(04/04,6490m),C3(06/04,6980m),C4(08/03,7620m),C5(18/05,7986m),C6(19/05,8513m),Smt(20,22,24,29/05)

routememo:
  M.S. Kohli - 21 June 65

  Indian Everest Expedition press conference.

  Earliest in list of Everest: South Col route operated 13th April.

  After abortive attempt of end April, 3 weeks period of not one good day; by 14th May improved and started going up weather held good except for same return journeys from summit; all summiters took pix including same Cine. All members remarkably fit; all fit to go to summit; all fit to go to summit, which had not planned for in oxygen supplies.

  End of April summit party:
    Captain Cheema
    Gambu
    Sonam Wangyal
    Sonam Gyatso

  Major BP Singh was 1 of 5 members last summit party; dropped out because of stomach trouble.
  No frostbite cases

  Only evidence of earlier expeditions on summit: Americans pole and 6 feet rope probably Swiss.

  NE Ridge last few hundred feet look "extremely difficult, rather impossible" from summit.

  Wanted get maximum of people on summit so didn't try West Ridge.

  Kohli went to South Col on 1st attempt in support; this his highest point because this abortive attempt used oxygen; so to conserve oxygen and since communication good stayed at advance base; leader does not normally put self in summit parties especially on Everest such problems 10 members had been on Everest before.

  No sign of Yeti; rather doubtful to consider existence of snow; does not exist; useless to make further expeditions to search for it.

  Sex impulse felt at South Col. One day perhaps women will also climb Everest.

  Sonam Gyatso's prayer flags to stop snow and wind successful because expedition successful and all back safely.


expid: THAM64301
peakid: THAM
year: 1964
route1: W Face-S Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Edmund Hillary
sponsor: Himalayan School House Expedition
ascent1: 1st
countries: India, UK, USA
bcdate: 1964-10-24
smtdate: 1964-11-04
termdate: 1964-11-07
campsites: BC(24/10,4875m),C1(25/10,5180m),C2(31/10,5800m),C3(01/11,5940m),C4(03/11,6250m),Smt(04/11)
routememo:
  Crawford - 18 Nov 64

  Consistency Thamserku difficult snow and ice - only one rock pitch which was a difficulty too at about 20,000 ft.

  C4 (20,700 ft) left 7:30 am and back from summit at 4 pm.

  Last part of climb difficult; steady wind, strong enough make it unpleasant.

  6 climbers - 4 summiters and Wilson and Mackay. From below C3 (19,000 ft) and Sahibs had to pack camps themselves; technically too difficult for Sherpas.

  Remarkably similar climbing conditions to Andes: fluting, mushrooms, steepness. To Pokhara tomorrow and Delhi next day probably; back to work.

  Bhattacharya also leaving expedition; will return to his University tomorrow.


  19 Nov 64

  All 3 - Crawford, Hearfield and Bhattacharya left for Benares today.

  Crown Prince Birendra inspected Chaurikharka School Dec 6, 1964. Ambassadors Duff, de Malnache and Stebbins and 40 school children from last year's schools at Thangboche, Thami and Khumjung helped welcome him.

  Head Lama of Thyangboche monastery blessed 2 foot bridges just completed over Dudh Kosi and Bhote Kosi at 10,000 ft (2000 ft below Namche) Dec 7, 1964.


  By radio from Hillary via Mulgrew - 6 Nov 64

  After Louise

  Thamserku climbed Nov 4 after exceptionally severe climbing requiring 4 camps, 4000 ft fixed rope, 100 ft rope ladders. Wilson of New Zealand led the assault, but summit party of 4 was Farrell, Crawford, McKinnon and Stewart all ex-New Zealand. All party well and safe; articles and photographs follow; formerly of Manchester, England.


  By radio from Mulgrew - 5 Nov 64

  Top bits extremely difficult. Hoped very much get Sherpa to top but technically much too difficult. 2 to summit were best technical climbers and doubt any more will attempt summit.

  Bridge programme below Namche going very well; temporary across river now and permanent one going well with suspension going across in couple weeks. 2 bridges will greatly shorten route to Namche; will go faster. School virtually finished.

  Radio airstrip Karyolung Peak

  I.   12 Sep - 31 Dec - Kathmandu-Khumjung via Giri and return same way:
       Hillary, Wilson, Mackay, Crawford, Lt. Mulgrew, Doig.

  II.  12 Sep - 31 Dec - Kathmandu-Khumjung via Junbesi and return same
       way: Fisher, Dr Max Pearl, Farrel, Brian Hearfield, Dr Lahiri,
       Dr Milledge, A.K. Bhattacharya.

  III. 4 Oct  - 31 Dec - Kathmandu-Khumjung via Giri and return via
       Okhaladunga and Sun Kosi River: MacKinnon and Stewart.

  IV.  12 Sep - 15 Oct - Kathmandu-Khumjung via Junbesi and return same
       way: J.W.S Aitken.

  V.   6 Nov  - 31 Dec - Kathmandu-Khumjung via Giri and return same
       way: Lady Louise Hillary, Mrs Anna Wilson, Mrs Jane Mulgrew,
       Mrs Louis Pearl.


  Thamserku - H & D

  "Thamserku, a 21,000 ft mountain of fleeted snow rearing above Khumjung."

  "Kangtega, Tawache, Thamserku and Ama Dablam - their names conjure up a vision of climbing so difficult that one is tempted to call it impossible. For surely even man must be stopped by these terrible ice-encrusted walls and airy buttresses?

  McKinnon and Stewart climbers and also for physiological programme, then to look its possibilities in jet boating in Nepal through looking at Sun Kosi [jet of water which propels boat] and take photos of its rapids. For future expeditions; schools reaching saturation - rivers at best in monsoon when other trasport means worst in Nepal.

  Main lift leave via porters - group members (Crawford carpenter, Mackay engine, Wilson deputy leader, Mulgrew, Hillary and Doig if here) fly to Jiri and trek to Junbesi and start job there. When main lift arrives 5-6 days later ready to finish job of school quickly. Then on to Chaurikharka, where set up base to concentrate on school and airstrip. Same then arrive up to arrange rest of programme climbing mid-Oct - mid-Nov: Wilson, Crawford, Farrell, McKinnon, Stewart, Mackay and Hearfield if he comes. Milledge may also do same climbing too.

  Physiological party may end up Khumjung or other village around 13,000 ft; main work on Sherpas acclimatization and adjustment to altitude.

  Field Ent salesmen big fund raisers for expedition - prizes this year for 15 salesman - would get air ticket and 1st of these may come to Kathmandu early Dec and met here by Hillary and fly then into new strip.

  Bridges require type lever but longer spurs which means can have footings higher above river; wire ropes will suspend bridge; if this system works, Sherpas can in future do themselves.


  19 Sept 64

  Hope have test flight of new airstrip Nov 20. Crawford will come out then. Hillary will fly out 7-10 days later.


expid: GLAC64301
peakid: GLAC
year: 1964
route1: SW side (from col betw Fluted Peak & Glac Dome)
nation: Japan
leaders: Sumio Shima
sponsor: All Japan Himalayan Expedition 1964 (Chiba)
ascent1: 1st
approach: Pokhara->Modi Khola->Annapurna Sanctuary (BC)
bcdate: 1964-09-17
smtdate: 1964-10-16
smttime: 1145
campsites:
  BC(17/09,4200m),C1(29/09,4220m),C2(30/09,4815m),C3(05/10,5400m),C4(09/10,5760m),C5(14/10,6190m),Biv(15/10,6490m),Smt(16/10)

routememo:
  BC establishment 17th Sep 13,000 ft
  18-24th Sept - exploration from South Annapurna Glacier 
       between Fluted peak and Tent peak)
  C1 - 29th Sep 14,000 ft established in the West Annapurna Glacier
       through the Gorge
  C2 - 30th Sep 15,800 ft
  C3 - 5th  Oct 17,900 ft in the bottom of Glacier Dome Glacier
  C4 - 9th  Oct 19,000 ft on the Ice Building of Icefall
  C5 - 14th Oct 20,400 ft just below the col of Glacier Dome and Fluted Peak

  On 15th Oct two attack members Nishimura, Mitsuhiro with Dorje Sherpa started from C5 with equipments of bivouac.

  They made bivouac on the col of Fluted Peak and Glacier Dome. We called it C6 at the height of 21,400 ft. On 16th Oct they started 6:00 am and scaled the peak of Glacier Dome at 11:45 am. The altitude meter shows the height of 23,450 ft on the top of the Glacier Dome.

  Their physical conditions were quite well on and they returned to C5 of the same day with great satisfaction. 

  The summit is covered with thick snow and divided by several small peaks. They stayed at the highest of them for 1 hour and buried the memories and pictures of our two mountaineering companions who were dead in the mountain of Japan by accident and had longed to go to Mt. Glacier Dome with us under the snow of the summit.

  These two late companions will stand and stay on the summit of Glacier Dome with great satisfaction and friendship to eternity.


expid: CHOY64101
peakid: CHOY
year: 1964
route1: W Ridge-W Face
nation: W Germany
leaders: Rudi Rott
ascent1: 3rd claimed
bcdate: 1964-04-04
smtdate: 1964-04-25
smttime: 1700
termnote: Success claimed
othersmts: Climbed Nupche Himal (NUPK-641-01) and Jasemba Goth (JASG-641-01)
accidents: 2 members died of AMS
campsites:
  BC(04/04,5200m),C1(16/04,6300m),C2(20/04,6450m),C2B(21/04,6500m),C3(22/04,6800m),C4(24/04,7200m),xxx(25/04,8100m)

routememo:
  Messner - 13 Feb 1986

  Stammberger did not succeed [on Cho Oyu, Spring 64].


  Fritz Stammberger - 31 August 1974

  On 1964 Cho Oyu expedition, 2 days after base camp established, Stammberger and Aila Sherpa climbed a 6600m peak [Nupche Himal] nearby via its West Ridge and 2 days after that he and Georg Huber climbed Jasamba Ri [Jasamba Goth] (6730m) from its West Ridge. Cho Oyu climbed via northwest side.


  Stammberger - 25 May 1964

  15 April started climbing after acclimatization: Huber, Thurmayr, Stammberger, Phu Dorje, Lhapka Norbu, Aila plus porters first day.

  C1 6300m established April 16th; 17th and 18th and 19th resting mostly.
   
  C2 established on ridge 6450m April 20. Aila stayed in C1 because of pneumonia. Huber and Thurmayr very slow climbing. Lhakpa Norbu returned to C1 because altitude sickness.

  C2B established April 21 at 6500m at icefall. Huber and Thurmayr very slow ascent.

  C3 established April 22 6800m; icefall very difficult negotiate (little chimney climbing) with skis and rucksacks on backs; Thurmayr in panic, Phu Dorje nervous.

  C4 April 23 entrance Cho Oyu arena 7200m.
   
  April 24th - Resting.

  April 25th - All 4 started climbing for summit 9 am. Huber and Thurmayr are slow team in deep snow. Stammberger, Phu Dorje went ahead at Huber's request. Terrain from C4 to summit "rather easy" even on rock band; less steep towards top. On foot all way from base: (Stammberger tried to up to C4 on skis but no good). Stammberger and Phu Dorje reached lower peak 50m below main peak at 4 pm and Phu Dorje stayed at this lesser Hillary Peak and Stammberger went on to main summit at 5 pm with skis on back. Weather cloudy base with almost no wind; descended on foot because after 20 minutes rest photograph and eating sausage and bread. Met 6:45 pm Huber and Thurmayr on rock band where they'd made bivouac at about 7500m so they could save day's progress and try to go to summit next day (had no sleeping bags and little food); soon as sun went down, got very cold and abandoned bivouac. All 4 came down (Phu Dorje ahead) to C4 and here Thurmayr showed first symtoms high altitude sickness - staggering.

  April 26th - All slept all day. Huber had bad headache and Thurmayr began to have hallucinations. Water heater's gas almost finished because had expected be up only 8 days total.

  April 27th - Preparations for another attempt, but Thurmayr stayed in tent in panic. Huber realized he was too weak make attempt and went into tent. Phu Dorje went down and water-heater gas finished and suffered - Thurmayr sickened.

  April 28th - 3 persons tried to descend but Thurmayr too weak to stand (lost balance). Stammberger unable help him because he fought Stammberger. Huber seemed strong and looking after but never leaves tent. Stammberger left about 11 am, skied down from 7200m to icefall at 6400m in about 25 minutes. Reached base camp same day at midnight to report to Rott and company (and for next 3 days unable do anything because of exhaustion and bad weather, drank at C1).

  April 29 - Rott had been quite sick and had reached base camp April 10 days after others. Rott had plan for 2 members and 2 Sherpas go up; others substituted different plan and he was not strong enough insist on his plan.

  April 26th Rott fixed tent with food to Nangpa La where sirdar and 2 Sherpas could stay and watch C4 and peak. Aila very sick and sent home. 

  April 27th arrived Phu Dorje at base coming with message from Stammberger asking food and men to C4 for new attempt on summit and Rott sent April 28th Sherpas with food but they returned with Stammberger. Rott sent 61-year-old sirdar back on April 29th 1 am with 3 Sherpas. 

  April 28 - Japanese expedition arrived and Rott explained situation.

  May 2 - Sirdar [Dawa Tenzing] reached C4 alone and spent one night May 2-3 and gave food and Huber seemed out of his mind and attacked sirdar. Sirdar reached base camp May 3 night.

  May 2 - Liaison officer went to Thami and hired 6 Sherpas and borrowed equipment and food from Japanese base there and returned May 4 morning. Stammberger, Gschwendtner, sirdar, Phu Dorje and 4 more Sherpas from expedition and 6 Thami Sherpas left base and reached C2. Sirdar discouraged Thami Sherpas about their insurance so 5 Sherpas went back to base on May 5th and seven others continued up. 6 thus went to C2 and because time consumed by dispute and bad weather.

  May 6 - Stammberger and 5 Sherpas to 200m below C4 where 2 Sherpas too tired and others reach C4 at 5 pm (Stammberger, sirdar, Phu Dorje and other Sherpa). Huber dead about 2 days and Thurmayr extremely critical condition in Phu Dorje's arms taking soup. Transported Thurmayr to 200m below camp of 2 Sherpas on a sled of skis. Bad snowstorm that night; Thurmayr ate but delerious.

  May 7 - Storm continued and almost impossible leave tent but Phu Dorje made better sled and 11 am left and reached icefall 2 pm; 8 meter icefall very difficult with sled. About 3 pm almost over icefall but Thurmayr found to be dead; 6500m buried him in hole they made. 

  Stammberger returning Aspen after visiting relatives of dead members; leaving in about one week.

  Cho Oyu can go by ski - only very expert skiers can do it. 


  Rott - 24 May 1964

  Rott came quickly to Jiri. Others to come to Jiri Friday but have not arrived by this am. Rott arrived Kathmandu this am by RNAC helicopter.

  Altitude sickness hit Huber and Thurmayr at C4 when rescuers reached them. Huber dead and then died at C4 7 May.
   
  Stammberger and Phu Dorje: at top April 25th.

  Thurmayr conscious when reached by Stammberger, etc; to them talked clearly. Huber dead 2 days. With Stammberger were Phu Dorje, sirdar and 1 Thami Sherpa. Sirdar had gone before on May 4 and found Huber delirious and boxing with sirdar.

  C3 - 6700m
  C4 - 7200m

  Base  17,000 ft = 5200m
   1    19,000 ft 
   2    21,000 ft 
   3    23,000 ft = 7000m
   4    24,700 ft = 7700m

  Peak  27,000 = 8153m


expid: NEMJ64301
peakid: NEMJ
year: 1964
route1: E & W sides
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Jan Boon
sponsor: Royal Dutch Alpine Club
countries: Austria
bcdate: 1964-10-17
smtdate: 1964-10-23
othersmts: Climbed Manaslu North (MANN-643-01)
primid: MANN64301
routememo:
  Expeditions to Himlung prior to 1992 were probably climbing Nemjung.

  Peak not attempted due to dangerous avalanche conditions.


expid: LANG64301
peakid: LANG
year: 1964
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Peter Taylor
sponsor: South Australian Himalaya Expedition
countries: UK
bcdate: 1964-09-27
smtdate: 1964-10-06
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to team too weak
campsites: BC(27/09),C1(01/10,5650m),C2(05/10,6550m),xxx(06/10,6700m)
routememo:
  Letter from Peter Taylor, C1 - Oct 13, 64

  I have just come off the ridge and am relaxing and trying not to think in superlatives. Here is the programme:

  1) C2 21,400 was set up on Oct 5.
  2) Ang Temba, Pasang Kami, Pasang Sherpa and myself put the route up the face of a 500 ft rock tower on the ridge on Oct 6. We reached an estimated height of 22,100 before calling off the climb. This height decides on observations on Ghenge Liru (Langtang II) (21,592) which is clearly visible. All claims to be supported by photographs. It was clear to me that we were too few in number to push on further, also the weather was weakening. It snowed for 4 days and by the end of it the 500 ft rock tower was unclimbable, it is obvious that had we continued we would not have returned.
  3) Mary Boyle came up to C1 (19,000) on Oct 1st. She has remained here cooking for Sherpas and ourselves until today.
  4) This morning (Oct 13) Mary Boyle, George Petley, Ang Temba, Pasang Kami, Pasang Sherpa and myself ascended to 21,600 on the SW Lirung Ridge. This was accomplished in 3 hours from C1.
  We shall return to BC tomorrow.
  Everyone is fit and well.
  Homan made it to C1 only 
  Wendy Martin only managed a few hundred feet above BC.


  Letter from Peter Taylor, BC - Sept 30, 1964

  I have been consulting my diary and note that base camp was finally set up at 16,000 on Sept 27th. Three days were spent in moving. I have decided on this new location as it puts us higher and nearer to Lirung. We are in a cirque below the SW Lirung ridge - which is above us at about 18,500. (There is a 22,000 peak on the ridge at this point which effectively blocks off any approach to Lirung from here directly). 

  Between this peak and Ghenge Liru is a couloir which leads to the southwest ridge (on the west side) to a flat spot at 19,000. This will be the site of C1 - the same as last year.

  Last year the couloir was filled with deep snow and was easy to negotiate. Right now there is about a foot of snow covering a lot of loose rock - the whole thing requires care.

  The route to the top of the couloir was opened up and marked out by George Petley and myself on Sept 26th. Since that time the Sherpas, Graham Homan, George Petley and myself have ferried all the high altitude food and fuel (plus enough equipment to set up camp and recce the Lirung ridge) to the top of the couloir and the site of C1. This has been a slow job since - due to the conditions in the couloir - each man can carry 30 lbs.

  With the exception of the Sirdar (Ang Temba), all the members of the expedition are fit and well. Ang Temba has a mouth ulcer; I have put him on a course of penicillin.

  Today we are resting. Tomorrow the sirdar, the 2 H-A porters and the 2 local porters plus Petley, Homan, Mary Boyle and myself will go up to 19,000 ft and set up C1. We shall be staying up there; the Sherpas will down and then come back up with all their gear on 2nd Oct. I hope to have a go at the Lirung Ridge (SW at this point) on the 3rd. Its about 21,000 above C1 - perhaps a bit more.

  Mary Boyle has taken to altitude and mountain life quite well. She has been up to 18,000 ft with me and climbed quite strongly. I have decided to take her up to C1 on a trial basis. She will do all the cooking for us up there. I hoping that she will eventually go over 20,000 ft.


expid: GANC64101
peakid: GANC
year: 1964
route1: S Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Earl of Shaftesbury, Ami Giroud
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 1964-04-20
smtdate: 1964-05-16
termdate: 1964-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6250m due to route difficulty
othersmts: Attempted Dorje Lhakpa (DORJ-641-01)
campsites: BC(20/04,4980m),C1(5700m),xxx(16/05,6250m)
accidents: No accidents
primid: DORJ64101
routememo:
  Giroud - 30 May 64

  Not to summit of Dorje Lhakpa because bad weather by long ridge and very difficult one at 5100m right to top nearly 7000m. 6300m highest point reached 10 May because of snow. Then to Gangchempo nearly 6400m where Darbellay and Rey went to 100m of top on Sat 16, but not to top because too difficult: steepness and on final ridge straight up and had not necessary equipment. Made camp at 5700m.


expid: GAUR64301
peakid: GAUR
year: 1964
route1: NW Face-N Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Don Whillans
sponsor: British Nepalese Expedition 1964
bcdate: 1964-09-19
smtdate: 1964-10-28
campsites: BC(19/09,2625m),ABC(4275m),C1,C2(02/10),C3,C4(5790m),C5(6400m),xxx(28/10,6700m)
routememo:
  Gaurishankar Expedition - 16 Nov 64

  Other 5 members arrive Kathmandu this am.

  22,000 ft highest point reached; another 400 ft would have been on ridge which would have been much more easier climbing. Had to use so much fixed rope that ended up with only 1 climbing rope.

  Certainly climbable. Not reasonably practical to climb from Nepal side, but from Tibetan very reasonable proposition, but still difficult: would need only 4 camps, 4 good technical climbers and a couple good Sherpas.

  Map shows ridge from summit in one clean cut ridge, but were 2 valleys between ridge wanted to be on and approach ridge.

  Avalanche every 2 days on "our ridge." 20 miles from base at 8000 ft (35 minutes on border) to top C5 at 21,000 ft; would have put C6 on ridge, lines too far strung out.

  Clough, Whillans, Hadlum and Girme Dorje reached highest point. 

  5000 ft fixed rope. Wasted 1 week going wrong way in approach march; 21 days in mists before saw the mountain.

  5 leave KTM Wednesday or Thursday and reach England Dec 20th. 


  Burnell - 14 Nov 64

  Burnell came on ahead to arrange transport; others left Thursday and they will reach Banepa Monday night or Tuesday am.

  Burnell reached 21,000 ft at ice cave C5; carried up to ridge at 22,000 ft, but avalanches prevented establish camp there. Whillans, Clough and Hadlum and Girme Dorje up to 22,000 ft. Howell also reached maximum 21,000 ft. Gray only to C4 at 19,000 ft because terrible trouble breathing.

  Very easy from Tibet; from Nepal couldn't get coolies to base camp; need bigger expedition.

  Expedition to stay KTM about 3 days. Gray by boat from Bombay with equipment; others overland by Xmas.

  Very dangerous, most dangerous place Whillans had been. Had 1 climbing rope left; used all rest for fixed rope. 7000 ft fixed rope altogether.


expid: ANNS64301
peakid: ANNS
year: 1964
route1: NE Face-N Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Haruo Higuchi
sponsor: Kyoto University Alpine Club
ascent1: 1st
approach: Pokhara->Modi Khola->Annapurna Sanctuary (BC)
bcdate: 1964-09-15
smtdate: 1964-10-15
smttime: 1230
termdate: 1964-10-31
othersmts: Climbed Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak) (THAR-643-01), Annapurna South (Central Smt 1st, 2nd ascents)
campsites:
  BC(15/09,4000m),C1(21/09,4600m),C2(27/09,5200m),C3(03/10,5600m),C4(06/10,6200m),C5(12/10,6600m),Smt(15/10)

routememo:
  Uyeo and Shimada - 11 Aug 64

  14 Sept established base camp. 1st summit group Yoshino, Kimura and Ageta tried on Oct 13th reached Central Summit (7150m). 2nd group Oct 15th Higuchi, Uyeo, Karma Sherpa and Mingma Tsering Sherpa mounted a second attempted (7219m). Uyeo and Mingma Tsering reached the Main Summit; Higuchi and Karma turned back short of the North Summit (7200m).   

  Above C4 very steep icefall overhanging which Shimade and Ageta were 1st to ascend, but then Shimada got sick and not able to go to summit. Base to C3 many avalanches and above C4 icefall; highest C5 at 6400m; 600m fixed rope all together (icefall almost all of it).

  Yohino and Kimura want to go to Tukuche. Dr. Higuchi and Uyeo will leave 1st; Higuchi to visit residence instruction in India and maybe Pakistan and Thailand and Philippines; Uyeo to see India maybe West Pakistan and Philippines and Taiwan. Shimida wants do recce of Himlung.

  Japanese 1964 expedition from Kyoto University climbed Tent Peak from South Annapurna Glacier on Oct 23, 1964. Those who reached summit were Kiyoo Shimada and Maasaki Kimura.

  (from report from Japan to Gunter Hauser - in letter from Hauser to JOM Roberts to May 28, 1966).

  Annapurna South - Central Peak

  1st ascent: 
    13 Oct - Hiromichi Yoshino
           - Masaaki Kimura
           - Yutaka Ageta
  2nd ascent:
    15 Oct - Shoichiro Uyeo
           - Mingma Tsering Sherpa

  Tent Peak route from South Annapurna Glacier
  1st ascent:
    23 Oct - Kiyoo Shimada
           - Masaki Kimura


expid: LANG64101
peakid: LANG
year: 1964
route1: S Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Takeo Suzuki
sponsor: Osaka City University Himalayan Expedition
bcdate: 1964-04-04
smtdate: 1964-04-23
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to difficult knife-edge ridge and avalanche danger
othersmts: Climbed Urkinmang (URKM-641-01) and Bhemdang Ri (BHEM-641-01)
campsites: BC(04/04),C1(06/04,4900m),C2(21/04,5700m),xxx(23/04,6000m)
routememo:
  Japanese Langtang Lirung, Spring 1964

  Attempted Langtang Lirung
  1st ascent Urkinmang (Buddha)
  1st ascent Bhemdang Ri (which they named Morimoto Peak for 1961 leader)

  Did not attempt - Kyungka
                    Gangchempo
                    Dorje Lhakpa


  Akira Ban - 23 Aug 78

  Tsunga peak = Langtang Ri about 7100m; Japanese 1973 autumn were on this peak, not on Langtang Lirung.

  Italians 1963 and Japanese 1964 both mistaken about ascent of Kyungka; were not on Kyungka but on other peaks.

  Bhemdang Ri 6750m climbed by Japanese 1964 on 10 May by 2 members and 1 Sherpa.

  Italians climbed Shalbacham in 1963, not Kyungka, 2nd ascent. 1st ascent by Japanese in about 1960. Osaka City University Expedition did not climb Ganchempo or Dorje Lhakpa.

  1964 Osaka City University made 1st ascent Urkinmang 6151m by Ban, Jokei, Kiyohara and Mingma Tsering on 20 May via South Face from Langshisa Glacier.

  1961 expedition tried only Langtang Lirung.


  Langtang Lirung leader Ban - 28 Aug 78

  Climbed unnamed peak, not Kyungka Peak in 1964 and Morimoto Peak 6800m named after 1961 expedition leader who killed by big avalanche in Langtang Glacier. Ban also member.


  Dan Taylor - 23 Nov 71
  (Gangchempo leader)

  Urkinmang (Buddha)

  1964 Japanese admitted to Taylor in writing that they climbed Buddha in its 1st ascent instead of Gangchempo. Had intended to climb Gangchempo and thought they had. 


  Ban - 30 May 64

  5 members to Calcutta tomorrow RNAC; Ban and Kiyohara leave June 2 of 3.

  Kyungka Peak (unclimbed) 6979m climbed from Langtang or Tunga glacier very near Urkinmang. 2 porters: 1 to Urkinmang other to Kyungka; climbed before permission known. 10th May climbed by Kando, Sasaki and Sherpa Mingma Tsering from 6500m to summit; knife ridge very difficult because steep and like knife. From C3 6400m and took 15 hours to summit and return.
   
  Italians last year said they climbed Kyungka, but Japanese think mistaken and instead Italians climbed Shalbachum 6700m.


  Ban - 25 May 64

  Langtang glacier many avalaches this year and decided must not attempt it in trying South Ridge route first because glacier very bad condition of big avalanches; C2 highest 5700m camp and reached 6000m highest point, reached by Ban, Sasaki and Nima and Nima Tsering I 23rd April. Abandoned South Ridge because very dangerous and very steep narrow ice ridge with no place to put on C3.
   
  April 28th moved basecamp - Urkinmang Himal (same Langtang massif) next moved base camp northeast into Langtang or Tsang glacier, ancient route to Tibet on base at 4300m now established 29 April. In above base camp III, highest camp 5950m from base to C1 very easy over moraine C1 to C2 snow glacier and sometime icefall. C2 to C3 rock but not very difficult. C3 to summit 300m ice face in which out stays all the way very steep (60% steepest part): this part "very difficult." 5 hours to reach summit from C3 (7 am left) and 5 hours down to C3. Photos and lunch on summit for 1 hour; left Nepal and Japan and OCU Alpine Club flag.

  No accidents.

  Langtang probably cannot be climbed from Nepal side because only one route via glacier and this changes so might be lucky one day. Don't know whether OCU will try it again.

  All will leave Kathmandu by plane, maybe 2 to Calcutta 30th rest leave 31st.


  Chandramohan - 7 April 64

  AP filed last night Langtang expedition establish base camp April 3rd.
  April 12-13 having avalanches

  Bhemdang Ri (Morimoto) 1st ascent:   
    10 May - Tetsuya Kondo
             Soshiro Sasaki
             Mingma Tsering

  Urkinmang (Buddha) (S Face) 1st ascent:                     
    20 May - Akira Ban
             Kazuhisa Jokei
             Tesuya Kiyohara
             Mingma Tsering

  Note: JAC reference gives ascent date as May 5, 1964 for Urkinmang and May 8, 1964 for Bhemdang Ri (which they called Kyungka).


expid: TLNG64101
peakid: TLNG
year: 1964
route1: From SW side to S Smt
route2: W Face-S Ridge
nation: W Germany
leaders: Richard Hechtel
sponsor: German Alpine Association
ascent2: 1st
countries: USA
approach: Jogbani->Hellok->Ghunsa->Lapsong La->Yalung Glacier (BC)
bcdate: 1964-04-27
smtdate: 1964-05-19
smttime: 1500
termdate: 1964-05-28
campsites: BC(27/04,4600m),ABC(01/05,5100m),C1(5600m),C1(6200m),C3(11/05,6750m),Smt(19/05)
routememo:
  12 June 64 

  Ang Tsering sirdar, liaison officer Khum Bahadur Kharki.

  Sunday - Hechtel went to Calcutta yesterday and to SF tomorrow; all others to Bombay by train from Jogbani.

  Tenzing from Khumjung and Lindner reached Talung summit 11 May. Made no attempt to try Kabru. Delayed return waiting 1 week for porters.


  Jeske - 19 June 64

  Reached base camp 27 April altitude 4600m. To get into Yalung Valley thus Lapsong La 5300m - coolies refused to go over pass. Weather then very good. 
  [dated April 29 runner to Bir and post from deputy leader].


  Hechtel - 8 April 64

  Dates of base camp and climbing peaks 12-14 days ex-Dharan. Determined to catch up with expedition by time reached 1st base at 14,000 ft. Base to be established by 20th. Advance base at 17,000 ft 2 weeks after base, so by May 1st hope have established advanced base. Probably trying Talung first. Hope be able use some high camps for both peaks. All members new to Himalayas.


expid: BARU64101
peakid: BARU
year: 1964
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hirotoshi Fukuda
sponsor: Rikkio University
approach: Dharan->Sedua->Barun Glacier (BC)->Sherpani Col->Barun Plateau
bcdate: 1964-04-11
smtdate: 1964-05-09
termdate: 1964-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 7150m due to dangerous cornices
othersmts: Climbed Pethangtse (PETH-641-01), attempted Hongku Chuli (Pyramid Peak) (HNKU-641-01)
campsites: BC1(11/04,5150m),BC2(12/04,5300m),C1(5750m),C2.ABC(6100m),C3(6600m),xxx(09/05,7150m)
routememo:
  Endo & Okura

  Pethangtse climbed by Yamanoi and Okura and 2 Sherpas Ang Dawa and Lhokpa Norbu May 16. Not so difficult to climb but that day very strong wind so stayed summit only long enough take photos. From highest camp 5700m to summit took 7 hours up. Different route from Hillary's west side: used south side which very steep and big crevasses midway up.

  All 4 members arrived yesterday 4 pm. All well. Stay KTM about 1 week, then perhaps Yamanoi goes to Dharan. No expedition members had accident or illness. Some Sherpas and Liaison Officer got high altitude sickness, sirdar so badly that expedition asked telegram be sent from Namche for helicopter, but telegram never received in KTM.


  Hirotoshi Fukuda - 6 July 64

  Fukuda alone in Kathmandu; others left Namche yesterday so ETA Kathmandu about 20th.

  Not able to reach Baruntse summit because very much snow, unstable final route and very dangerous cornices. Highest 7150m point expedition reached only 70m from summit but here stopped by only cornices and pinnacles above. May 9th reached highest point. Okura and Endo who climbed Pethangtse then May 11th began attack Pethangtse. 13th Fukuda left camp and learned of success May 16th from mailrunner.

  Pethangtse also difficult though at first seemed easy. Here too much snow already lying on mountain and had to clear it away. At 6030m was great crevasse which was very difficult to cross - Yamanoi and Okura.

  Fukuda has to return to Japan quickly to teach (teaches German literature). Leaves KTM June 9, RNAC to Calcutta, arrives in Tokyo sometime before 15th after few days business in Calcutta.

  No members accidents or illnesses.


  6 March 64

  Pethangtse Himal, 22,800 ft, May 16 by 
    Takeo Yamanoi
    Masami Okura
    Ang Dawa III
    Lhakpa Norbu

  Baruntse attempted first but unsuccessful, then tried Pethangtse.

  From liaison officer to Foreign Ministry.


  Baruntse - 23,688 ft. 

  First successful ascent by party of Hillary 1954 expedition expedition. (High In the Thin Cold Air, p 225).

  (see also Mt. Everest)


  Application to HMG

  Rikkio University (also St. Pauls University, same institution)
  of Tokyo sponsor; financed by University and members.

  Rikkio University Himalayan Expedition scientific explorer and research to Makalu I (8470m): topography, geological and atmospheric conditions of Barun glacier area: also enroute for Arun River and Jogbani Dhankuta to base study language, folklore, flora and fauna; from base camp at 4500m will attempt scale Baruntse (7184m).

  5 members including leader:  

  Hirotoshi Fukuda, 36, assistant professor at Rikkio University
  Takeo  Yamanoi, 29, director of Rikkio Alpine Club (member of 1959 Himalchuli Exp).
  Masami Okura, 23 
  Takeshi Kishino, 23 
  Taiji Endo, works in Hilton Hotel, Tokyo


expid: GYAC64101
peakid: GYAC
year: 1964
route1: W Face-NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kazuyoshi Kohara
sponsor: All Japan Himalayan Expedition (Nagoya)
ascent1: 1st,2nd
bcdate: 1964-03-11
smtdate: 1964-04-10
smttime: 1100
termdate: 1964-04-25
accidents: Otaki killed in fall
campsites:
  BC(11/03,5280m),C1(17/03,5730m),C2(20/03,5960m),C3(23/03,6410m),C4.ABC(27/03,6650m),C5(01/04,7050m),C6A(06/04,7550m),C6B(09/04,7670m),Smt(10-11/04)

routememo:
  Kyoto - 22 May 64

  Leave KTM after 1 week.
  6 camps above base.

  April 9 11:45 am Otaki accident. C5 called Otaki camp. 3 members started from Otaki camp 8:30 am including Otaki (Takeda and Kobayashi also), arrived final ridge border line between Nepal and Tibet about 11:30 am. Otaki 11:30 am getting tired and since ridge not so steep but long snowfield they take rest at 7750m. Takeda leader of party thought too late in day reach summit that day and considered returning to Otaki camp, but better explore route to summit. Takeda went 100m away to see; suddenly Otaki slipped, fell 2000m into Gyachung Kang glacier in Tibet. Very very steep where Otaki fell; nearly 2000m straight down, so unable climb down. Couldn't see body because of overhang. Kobayashi little below Otaki, who was resting. So why fell, cannot say. 

  All members well throughout except Otaki fatal accident.

  Sherpas of Cho Oyu said German expedition coming after 3-4 days; met then 1 day below Namche.


  Kikuchi - 19 June 64

  Arrive KTM 5 pm with Machida. Left 8th morning, all members; these 2 came quickly to meet Otaki's brother and Mainichi man. Rest will come about 23rd with Thakur.

  Otaki fell on Tibetan side and impossible recover because in Tibet; no one saw him fall.

  11th morning Machida and Yasuhisa also reached summit. Most difficult: C4 to C6 very steep; around C5 avalanches also caused fear; avalanche actually went over tents sheltered under crevasse. 200m from summit very difficult rock climbing, so had to dump heavy oxygen cylinder which threatened throw him off balance.
   
  Leaving KTM around end May
  Brother of Otaki = Katsutoshi Otaki
  Sugio Kano, vice chief of editor's dept, Shinaro Mainichi Press, Nagano

  Arrive KTM today via Cal and New Delhi. Came to receive expedition which arrives KTM about May 26th according message received here about May 10th. Brother wants to take boots, sweater to mother and father of fiancee Miss Matsuya Kuba in Nagano City who knitted sweater about June 5-10. Brother also not climber but 1st time in Nepal. Body never found.

  JJAC 1965 

  Gyachung Kang climbed twice by AJHE:
  April 10, 1964 - Kato, Sakaizawa and Pasang Phutar III reached summit
  April 11, 1964 - Machida and Yasuhisa reached summit


  Thakur - 10 April (letter from Kohara)

  Climbed peak 7922m on 10th April. 10 April members Kato and Sakaizawa and Sirdar started from final C6 7680m at 7 am after great difficulties especially stiff rock knife-ridge stood on summit at 11 am and returned to camp at 2 pm.

  Many difficulties especially final camp to summit. Otaki fell down from knifed-ridge into Gyachung Glacier on 9 April, body lost.

  Brother says fell on other side of ridge.
  Breaking base camp April 25th.


  Kohara - 16 Feb 64

  Leave tomorrow afternoon by jeep and truck expedition with about 30 porters set out a foot for mountain via Namche. Arrive Namche March 4-5 and to basecamp 4 days more at about 4500m on Ngojumba Glacier. Kohara will go to Advance Base about 6000m (Advance Base=4th camp above Base); highest camp will be C6 or C7.

  Liaison Officer is Prakash Chand Thakur's brother, Jay Chand Thakur
  Radio base to other camps only.

  Gyachung Kang tried 
    1951 British recon. 
    1960 Snowman expedition by Japanese recon (Fukuoka Univ)
    1962 Sayre
    (Wylie says no British expedition really to Gyachung Kang - first in area)

  Sponsors as listed 13 Feb 63 dispatch 
  climbing only
  10-12 Sherpas; to be settled when Mgr Kato arrives Feb 9

  Expedition leaves for Namche on Feb 15 or 16. Hope reach summit May 10-15 and return Kathmandu end June.

  Gyachung Kang recon by Fukuoka University in 1960, but not conquered.


  Letter from Kohara 

  Climbed peak 7922 metres on 10th April. 10 April members Kato and Sakaizawa and sirdar started from final C6 at 7 am after great difficulties especially stiff rock knife ridge stood on summit at 11 am and returned to camp at 2 pm.


  E-mail from Mahiro Tada (JAC) - Mar 18, 2004

  Team had 19 bottles of oxygen (French-made) and used it for sleeping at times.


expid: EVER64101
peakid: EVER
year: 1964
route1: N Col-NE Ridge (training)
nation: China
leaders: Xu Jing
accidents: 1 member died of illness
routememo:
  Ad Carter - Aug 3, 1993

  The leader of the 1964 and 1966 Chinese Everest teams was Xu Jin.


  Samdrup, Wang Jia & letter from TMA - March 1993

  Shou Zhi-Qing, an assistant of Nanjin Meteorology Institute, in April 1964 had a cerebral hemorrhage at the North Col, died there and was buried in the snow.

  Following the West's doubts about the success of the Chinese ascent of Everest in 1960, there would be another expedition in 1967. They would climb to the summit and would also carry out other assignments including determining the exact height of Everest. In preparation for this, teams would go to Everest in 1964 and 1966. The climbing in all three years would in general be the same as that followed in 1960 and by their British predecessors: to the North Col and from there to the North Ridge.

  The spring 1964 party was composed of about 20 climbers who were led by either Shi Zhang-Chun, the leader in 1960, or Xu Jin. Their tasks were to determine the exact climbing route, carry up supplies of oxygen for the final ascent, and demonstrate their climbing abilities to the selectors of the 1967 team. Six or seven in this party reached a high point of 8100m.

  The group who went to Everest in 1966 were an entirely different sort. Instead of being mountaineers as in 1964, these were mostly soldiers with no climbing experience who were now ordered to go to the mountain by the leaders of the Cultural Revolution, which was in its early phase. There were 60 altogether, 20 of whom were to do serious climbing while the rest were to conduct scientific research up to about 6500m. They got to a high point of a campsite at 7790m but were not capable of going any higher.

  Then the Cultural Revolution took a different line and all further mountaineering was suspended.


expid: EVER63101
peakid: EVER
year: 1963
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
route2: W Cwm-W Ridge-N Face (up); SE Ridge-S Col (down)
nation: USA
leaders: Norman Dyhrenfurth
sponsor: American Mount Everest Expedition 1963
ascent1: 5th,6th
ascent2: 7th
countries: UK
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1963-03-21
smtdate: 1963-05-01
smttime: 1300
termdate: 1963-05-25
accidents: Breitenbach killed in Khumbu Icefall
campsites:
  BC(21/03,5425m),C1(30/03,6160m),C2.ABC(02/04,6510m),C3(07/04,7250m),C4(15/05,7650m),C5(16/05,7950m),C6(21/05,8300m),Smt(01,22/05); C3W(07/04,7250m),C4W(15/05,7650m),C5W(21/05,8300m),Smt(22/05),Biv(22/05,8530m)

routememo:
  Barry Bishop - 16 Oct 1969

  Sept 25th remains found by Japanese expedition, 20 minutes walk from base camp. 1st Sherpas brought in watch, etc. Japanese placed remains in wooden box which they sealed and on that they wrote John E Breitenbach March 23, 1963; took all effects and put in 2 smaller boxes and inventoried 21 items.

  Head Lama heard about this and held service at base about 1st Oct. Japanese intended cremation 10 Nov after climbing finished.

  7 Oct Ward reached KTM and plans made by US and Nepal - message supposedly sent to police at Namche to bring remains to Thyangboche. Bishop at Namche early 11th Oct and found nothing done because radio message garbled so Bishop filled them in and policeman and 2 Sherpas sent to base for body and left 11th and arrived base 12th. Japanese refused hand over body. On 13th Bishop leaves them at Thyangboche and sends them back with letter from Bishop written to Japanese leader; leader at C1 and said no release on 13th until 1 radio contact on 14th after which release agreed to.

  David Harr (US embassy) arrived Thyangboche less Dyhrenfurth on 15th.

  On 13th head Lama selected grave site and constructed that afternoon in snowstorm with police agreement - on north-facing slope with view from there of monestery towards Everest group and Ama Dablam.

  Bishop got stone mason to carve marker 
    John E Breitenbach 1935-1963
    "Long Live the Crown" AMME
  (quite from Tetu days - epitaph he wanted).

    2 3/3 K 2 1/2

  and Tibetan prayer flag blessed and hoisted by grave - Buddhist prayer by head Lama and 8 monks to Sherpas, Dyhrenfurth, Harr and Bishop. Harr read Christ burial service including prayer "I will lift up mine eyes into the hills" at 9:30-10:30 am.

  Dyhrenfurth from Namche by helicopter this morning and back to Namche.

  Dyhrenfurth will continue to base with his party in 5-6 days and will talk to Japanese; 21 effects to Lukla under Police escort to MFA to US embassy - to be displayed about 22nd or 23rd.
   
  Bishop and Dyhrenfurth recognized camera, walkie-talkie, ice axe same as AMME - watch stopped at 27th, about right for being authentic. Jake written on parka, water bottle - thus saw no reason to open sealed coffin.

  Matsuzayawa - Everest climbing
  party base camp

  Found body 25th Sept with ice axe, anorak and shoes, camera and film, walkie-talkie, watch; most of bones broken, only both hands and feet.

  Miharana message to Dhy and US embassy of condolence. Dr. Omari written and has seen body.

  Barry Bishop - 10 Oct 63 

  Tomorrow am Bishop flies to Lukla and treks to Thyangboche to arrange burial; meanwhile at MFA's request remains being brought to Thyangboche and he hopes remains will arrive 14th evening.

  15th David Harr of US embassy will leave KTM by USAID helicopter, stop at Lukla for Norman Dyhrenfurth and if he's there pick him up and proceed to Thyangboche (if he's not at Lukla, Harr proceeds without him). Remains to be identified, presumably as Breitenbach: if not, temporary burial at Thyangboche: if so, permanent burial there hopefully with Thyangboche head Lama present for blessing.

  Bishop will send Dyhrenfurth messages to be at Lukla on 15th am (1) by streamer from tomorrow's flight over Junbesi and (2) runner back from Lukla.

  B Bishop - 7 Oct 63

  Maynard Miller's rate of 3 days and Jake 1-1/2 miles up icefall means could well be Jake - so very possibly Jake. Next of kin notified: widow, Jacksauyo and parents Victoria BC. Must wait for their instructions. Barry proposes Alouette pick up Norm and they identify and pick up body (near base - 20 minutes away) and bury at Gorak Shep beneath memorial rock inscription.

  Dr Barrymore - 3 Sept 63

  Litle survived completely, all rest off at about 1st joint - 8 had come off about there's they died; this morning's surgical procedure was triming 8 toes in hospital only couple of days now. "Few observations made at time of operation, it will be unlikely that any further amputation will be necessary - no major skin grafting."

  Unsoeld - 5 Aug 63

  Barry last Sunday talking about early Sept for 1st operation. Unsoeld feels must be out of hospital by Oct 10 when 2 Peace Corps groups arrive. Has first refused 1st offer of another expedition - to climb in Antarctica, Nov 1965 - Feb 1966. 


  Expedition Press Conference - June 10

  Team effort - including all personnel.
  Scientific purpose as well as mountain climbing.

  Lost track how many new disaster. On track in seemed all going very well with such large group - until bridge collapsed. Then smallpox (one of Tamang porters infected and others from him - vaccines brought in). On mountain tragic death March 23 of Breitenbach on 2nd day in icefall. 6-12 few scares on mountain in ridge route: group of Sherpas in dump went down hillside in avalanche from snowstorm which sent them back to C2 without equipment and without desire to go back up. Then wind storm 16-17 May at C4 West on crest of ridge after ascent to 26,000 ft by Tom and Willy. About midnight Al said seemed to have lost 2 tents; wind had caught 2 tents broadside and carried down slope 150 ft turning over with 2 Americans and 4 Sherpas inside - tied down in spot where stopped rolling and spent night there. Next am tent at higher spot started sliding. Finally crowded down to C3 W for night (would have gone to C2 if not so tired).

  Whittaker without oxygen from north summit down: 20-30 ft overhang of cornices to east with wind from west. Cornice fractured taking away left half foot prints (these tracks still there 3 weeks later). At bottom of gap between north and south summit turned upside down hanging from rope in strong wind and couldn't communicate to Gombu - managed turn himself right side.
   
  Dyhrenfurth: then bivouac at 28,000 ft: - previous record at 26,000 ft - "if had been higher wind that might they would not be alive."

  Siri: 5 resident projects: 
  1) 3 studies on then human behavior physiology
  2) geophysical: glaciology programme by NGS
  Cannot give conclusions for 6 months to 1 year to do analytical work.
  No thoughts of sex above 23,000 ft. Dhy says "couldn't agree less with British."

  Pownall: freeze dry foods easy to prepare - more variety would have been better. Wish list for assault, mostly jellies and liquids to save churning energy - had no food or water after breakfast from 6 am until about 6 o'clock tea at C6 (no water because contents froze; put some snow on his mouth but gave no satisfaction because too dry).

  Hornbein thinks it possible to reach summit at night.
  Dyh: without oxygen after 3 days so food and sleep not able to conceive.
  Dyh: found selves short-handed at times when split into 2 routes. Could have used more, both Sherpas and Sahibs. Big expedition cumbersome 5 miles fine).
  Dyh: 29,628 ft he accepts until another survey proves it wrong. 
  Whit: "mountain seemed higher than I had read about it."
  Miller: seasonal varieties in snow (firn=compact snow) 1-1/2 to 7 feet at lower altitude in cwm; this a different mountain, every year."

  Dyh: West Ridge in minds of many climbers quite a few years. In US American Expedition discussed it secretly and 2 days out of Kathmandu decided make determined recon and if feasible split into 2 with Lhotse and Nuptse later if at all. All shared feeling West Ridge "very valuable prize in terms of mountaineering accomplishment."

  Horn: route on took to summit did not follow ridge all the way: over onto on face for a while. West Ridge itself will require greater forces - should be better called West Buttress at shoulder route.

  Dyh: accomplishments: 1st climb on West Ridge; 1st Himalayas traverse (in this case necessary for physical and psych support to West Ridgers). 6 men on summit (in 1953 2 men of 12 climbers at summit). Scientific reseach - film on TV and maybe in theatres - equipment research - trip to US by 5 Sherpas and Captain Prabhakar to major cities and major mountaineering centers.

  Hornbein: clear night but no moon so very black and difficult for sight

  Dyh: Everest not conquered in autumn - same for anything above 27,000 ft - foolish to try it as Swiss found out in 1952 and French on Makalu in 1954. May first earliest on summit such high peak and in retrospect wish could have picked better date. Month of May only month Everest climbable.

  J Roberts - 27,600 ft - 12 
              South Col   22 
              27,200 (W) - 5

  Dyh: this J Roberts' 13th Expedition (5 in Himalayas) - his knowledge of language and Himalayas extremely valuable.

  American Everest Fed support research in mountain across.
  Dyh: Yeti question still open. Up to yellow band technical problems, less on north face but after that appears very difficult.

  Whit pic at summit:
  28 - April 30th 
  38 - Norman  1) (in lead) and Ang Dawa IV
  39 - barber = Pasang Tamba of Darjeeling
  42 - Girme Dorje correct spelling 
  48 - Ang Dawa - Day after climb: 5/2 - Jim and Gombu had gone down; Dyh and 
       AG "wrapping things up"

  batch 2

  12 - 28,200 ft
  14 - peak a left Lingtren - Khumbutse on right
  18 - mountain in background is Nuptse
  21 - Nuptse wall - true peak does not show - badly foreshortened
  24 - went to about 27,800 ft - any way he's not in pic - now in Gombu
  3  - Dudh Kosi
  9  - 1955 Erwin South - map probably Austrian Alpine Club but sponsored 
       German Dyh's 1955 Himalayas Expedition, which climbed 30 peaks; 
       (main objective Lhotse - made 1st recon - got 1200 ft from top)
  10 Yersa - 9 or 10 days out of KTM
  15 Hornbein designed (not helped design)
  - none of Gombu nor Ang Dawa

  17 - just below IV
  19 - tis Chambos
  22 - Dolaghat
  16   batch 2 - Dick Emerson in picture says Corbet
  9    batch   - definitely Pownall says Whittaker
  49-53 batch 3 - not Millers pix - taken by 
  49 - Sherpa ahead and Dawa behind
  50 - Bishop taken by Prabhu
  51 - Doedy taken by Prabhu
  52 - Prathu of his own foot
  53 - by Prabhu probably

  Whittaker - 13 June

  Cornice occurred just below north or main summit - when fracture occurred, Gombu leading; not disturbed except gave "very much of start". Completely silent in roar of wind, but piece fell away between them. 20 minutes or so later and all way down to saddle between 2 summits and on way up to South Summit. Gombu was above him since Whit had stopped and taken off pack; rope had tangled with pack and when slid when snow steps gave way, rope tight from above very tight made him swivel into upside down position on saddle 2 feet from ground. Gombu wondered at strain on rope but couldn't see what happened - got himself right side up in 1 minute - "first time I even been upside down."

  Whit leading up - about 8 ft below summit suddenly realized at summit, Whittaker stopped 50 ft below and let Gombu come even with him and inivited him go up first. After several rounds of "you go first" Whit said "Ok both together" - "this way we were both 7th man on top."

  Whit from C6 to C2 on May 2, to base next day. Did not ever go back up through icefall. Wanted to go up Lhotse - 2 weeks with other assault team but not enough oxygen left.

  Whit leaving Nov to go home to family and sporting good store whose big time is July and "give it a slot in the arm by leaving there".

  "I love the mountains and wind certain to climb in them but as for as major expeditions that's not in the wild future". Will continue to lead 2 climbs in Cascades, Olympics, etc for Mountaineers (club of 4000 members in Seattle from which he learned to climb at 14). Will do some porch sitting because "I'm 20 lbs underweight and only way I can think of to get them back"; still involved in instruction, etc.

  Ullman - 9 May

  Whittaker "a driving force - one of less complicated members." Not dissimilar to Hillary, physically and psychologically" - tremendous shoulders, tremendous energy; was swimming on lake near Seattle on shores of which he lives through winter to toughen self. On march in doing 50 push-ups every occasional day. "Wanted to get to the top of Everest" in contrast to Hornbein and Unsoeld who'd apparently rather fail on West Ridge. 25-30 lbs below normal weight when at top.

  Gombu: (Hunt says 17 in 1953) - his 4th or 5th expedition to Everest and very strong motivation to get to top - ambitious get out of Tenzing's shadow - well used by all and doing lots of work - very short and stocky.

  Ang Dawa IV has been on Dyh's previous expeditions - slight but not so short as Gombu.

  Dyh in almost same role as Hunt in support - forced to go high because of photographer needs with Doody's being indisposed.

  Whittaker began climbing 1943 as boy scout - does skii driving [sky diving?] - climbed Mt Rainier 55 times by various routes.


  Radio in apt - 10 May

  Weather very good this am but in pm poorer - lots of avalanches around you. Khumbu icefall broken up very badly and giving bad problems getting through it these days.

  Ullman - 10 May

  Dave Dingman replaced Gil Roberts in support team on South Col - no reason; Ullman's "educated guess" for ascent. 

  Radio in apt - 11 May

  Jim Lester and Gil Roberts at base today. Bishop also lost 2 days on West Ridge because of bad weather. P{obably leave May 25th base, arrive 9 June Kathmandu.

  Up high on mountain very high winds - clear at base where is calm. Avalanches thundering down every once in a while today.

  Bishop and Jerstad start climbing tomorrow and will make one camp per day weather permitting.

  West Ridge group presumably working out of advance base where they have been delayed by bad weather.

  Dyh says: Bishop at C1 tonight from base today with 3 Sherpas then support plan leave base tomorrow.

  Hornbein from C2 to C3 West today
  Unsoeld on ridge at C3 West

  Siri at base says: Bishop and Jerstad left today to processed slight through schedule summit attempt 21st. Hope coincide with West Ridge summit attempt, but once past C3 most go because of oxygen and support. West Ridge must establish C4 and C6. If meet up with col group will traverse and go down S Col but if don't make coincide will go down by West Ridge. Reason West Ridge group must go down West Ridge is now impossible to provide adequate support after 21st for South Col route.

  Ullman - 12 May

  Weather good today at base. Both groups to come down by South Col route if 2 route group meet at summit. West ridge team has enough oxygen to make assault 2-3 days after 21st.

  Radio in apt - 13 May

  Jerstad and Bishop went to C2 today and will lay there 1 day. C3 W is finished and ready to start C4 West. Weather very good today - hot sunshine.

  Whittaker now at base. Gombu also. Whittaker and Pownall went skiing today on glacier with Doody taking pix.

  Long range monsoon forecast: mid-May at least before arrives Everest area.

  C4 W at 25,100 ft he believes - which is in beginning and largely rocky region - site first reached 12 April by Hornbein, Unsoeld and Bishop.

  Carry to C4 W by 9 Sherpas and Unsoeld today. Hornbein, Emerson, Corbet and Jerstad at C3.

  Weather at base good, clouds morning in now but snow today or past 2 days which is record snow free period.

  Winches use on way to C2 W but now they're beyond that so no more use for them now.

  Dhy at base camp today:

  C1 base    17,800 
  C2 advance 21,350 
  C3         23,000
  C4         24,900
  C5         26,000
  C6         27,450

  Ullman - 14 May

  Bishop and Jerstad still at C2. Dingman today from base to C1. J. Roberts tomorrow from base to C1.

  Carry of loads to C4 W by 9 Sherpas and Unsoeld today; Hornbein and Auten at C3 W. Emerson and Corbet at C2.

  Another very fine sunny day at base. 

  J Roberts to C1 today Miller is at C1 today. Dingman to C2 today Jerstad and Bishop plan to move out 17th from on West Ridge carry to C4 W yesterday. Will be 6 Sherpas on col route and approx 12 on West Ridge.

  Target still 21st for both West Ridge and South Col.

  Dyh at base today, so are Lester & Siri - "waiting, biting our finger nails" hoping weather will stay good and 21st will be a double achievement" says Dyh.

  Unsoeld at about 25,100 ft yesterday evening. Corbet and Emerson going up West Ridge from C2 tomorrow.

  If Jerstad and Bishop do move out of C2 on 17th, means then 1 camp/day to summit (Prather on radio at base today)

  Ullman - 16 May

  Jerstad: At Pacific Lutheran Col: very good football and basketball player - has coached basketball and golf. Played 2 years AAU and Basket combination athlete and intellectual - teaches drama.

  pixie quality: sports, poetry, wore beanie with helicopter. 
  35 ascents of Rainier by various routes; guide on Rainier; 2 expeditions in Alaska. Now down to 135 or so pounds. Wife had baby during expedition.

  Bishop: Climbed Ama Dablam, very difficult mountain; excellent mountaineer writer for National Geographic and photographer. Solar radiation work for this expedition. Geographer - BS geology at University of Cin, MS geography Northwestern. Scientific advisor to RE Byrd's Antarctic Projects office.

  Climbed W US, Canada, Mexico, Alps. 1st expedition 1951 McKinley (1st ascent via West Buttress - Argentina, Antarctica.
   
  Tremendous passion and drive to get mountain top (like Whit) - paid little attention to wife during 5 days visit. 

  Hornbein: Quite introspective, "dedicated mountaineer" - driving more than anyone for West Ridge - resented priority given South Col.

  Radio in apt - 16 May

  Dyh at base: weather started snow 5 pm today.

  At 200 feet (Whit and Gombu found in type ribbon can rosary, crucifix and Pope John medal - Gombu carried to summit and brought down to base.

  4F 79 W 7-9 pm - 21 May1

  Have no word on West Ridgers - think was carry from C3 W to C4 W today by Sherpas.

  Ullman - 16 May

  Snowing began this afternoon at base - Sherpa carry from C3 W to C4 W.

  Radio in apt - 17 May

  Weather bad today: high winds - at base at least 1 inch of snow and weather so bad doubts anyone move up the mountain.

  Dyh, Lester, Whit, Doody, Pownall, Prather at base today. Lack of oxygen limits number of people going up. No names of high climbing Sherpas except Girmi Dorje is with Bishop.

  Dhy: "weather report quite bad - low over Afghanistan which travelled to Punjab yesterday - winds are very severe. At height of Everest summit about 100 mph so now on West Ridge stymied and just hanging on. If low passes and winds die down will still have lost time and summit date changed by one day at least; we are still hopeful we can pull it off."

  Dyh try to have expedition says as little as possible at Banepa - press conf at KTM with all members present. If press comes to meet expedition members refer him to Dyh and he give very little.

  High winds - 1 inch snowfall - 100 mph establish high up wind - clearing a bit towards South at base at 5 pm. No word from other camps today but doubt anyone moved up. Dyh still hopeful we can pull it off.

  Girmi Dorje with Bishop.


  Radio in apt - 18 May

  Dark weather but only light snow flurry today which seems over for day
  [mailrunner arrived KTM today].
  Whit. - base, will stay down 
  G. Roberts - base, will stay
  Pownall - base, will stay
  Prather -t base, will stay
  Emerson - C3 W
  Dingman - C2 to C3 tomorrow
  Siri - base, will stay down
  Auten - C7 W - stay there or C4 N
  Doody - base, will stay down
  Dyh - base, will stay down
  Crucifix, etc will be brought back to KTM 

  Dhy: "yesterday site was rather confused in view of terrible weather" - due to tremendous winds which were 60-80 mph at C4 W night before last around midnight 2 tents (with 4 Sherpas) (Auten and Corbet) started slide down hill 100 vertical feet but no one hurt - managed to arrest slide but had bad night. Next am they were hanging on for lives. Tent blowing over edge taken moving but somehow Tom, Wilby, Barry and Al and 4 Sherpas descended in terrible storm at C3 W where spent night. 2 days before Barry and Emerson should have gone to C3 W from C2 but Emerson not well; day before yesterday started towards C3 W alone. Spent night in crevasse more comfortably than those in C3 W protected by winds. Next day on to C3 W.

  Today Unsoeld, Hornbein, Emerson, Corbet and Auten and 3 Sherpas spent last night at C3 W and today there too though weather better but still quite windy.

  5 tents lost on West Ridge altogether (3 at C4 W, 2 at dump)
  Equipment was lost but think able save all oxygen which is vital. 
  Sherpas tired.

  In view of less of tents and other equipment and food, Unsoeld earlier chances "exceedingly slim if weather good and all else perfect; at very best might be able put 2 men team on summit May 22.
   
  So orginal plan to have 2 men each has to be abandoned. Great deal of luck to reach summit. If nearly not perfect, will have to be content recon towards C6 W at about establish 27,800 ft. Even Willy and Tom not very optimistic and if don't reach summit but succeed reconnoitering route beyond 27,000 will have done something tremendous in mountaineering world.

  Bishop and Jerstad now at C3 bottom Lhotse Face. Will continue tomorrow to C4 and due to high winds past 2 days not certain any tents left South Col and at C6; therefore Bishop and Lute and Sherpas will have to carry tents sleeping bags oxygen to South Col; if on arrival at South Col final tents up final and at C6 hooray; if nearly lucky have summit meeting on 22nd. If West Ridgers delayed 1-2 days will be descend via West Ridge.

  Weather considerably better today - winds lessened and all we can now is hope".  "If weather Ok tomorrow West Ridgers will carry from C3 W to C4 W and Willy Unsoeld and Hornbein will stay there."

  Ullman - 18 May

  West Ridge on 16/17 - high winds 70-80 mph. Night of 16th 2 tents started sliding down mountain (Corbet and 4 Sherpas) - about 100 vertical feet down mountain; hanging on for lives but stopped. Yesterday am while Dyh on radio to Unsoeld - at C4 W heard him shout to Hornbein "tents blowing over" but didn't quite go. Later on 17th Unsoeld, Hornbein, Corbet and Auten and 4 Sherpas worked way down to C3 W in terrible storm. Today at C3 W meanwhile Emerson and Corbet fun - C2 to C3 W by - Corbet reached them by Emerson turned back and up again alone and spent night in crevasse where was warmer than in tents - arrive C3 W.
  5 West Ridgers at C3 W last night.

  Tomorrow will try to go to reestablish C4 W and still hoping summit May 22nd and hoping out C6 W at 27,800 ft.

  South Col Bishop from C2 to C3 today. Tomorrow hope to go to C4. Afraid inside blew away tents their route so carrying tents. Support party one day behind. Still hopes of summit meeting May 22nd.

  Radio in apt - 19 May

  NW Ridge today rested at C2 W - everybody there today.
  Lester and Pownall to C4, Dingman and Girme Dorje to C3.

  Dyh will hope leave base 25 May, arrive Namche 27 May, spend night and 28 May. Leave 29 May.

  Ullman - 19 May

  Weather fairly good today - base camp said did not have the number of Sherpas on South Col route.

  Radio in apt (Doody) - 20 May

  Whit: on top 1 May about 20 minutes - summit a snow summit; permanent area 100-150 feet below true high point of mountain which is snow - impossible to search.

  * whole area for Mao Crust thoroughly thus 150 ft of snow to rock - left a stake with flag flying when left summit - were without oxygen 3-1/2 hours from summit to tents.

  As far as know Bishop and Jerstad reached Col today - have 3 Sherpas: Nima Tenzing, Temba Tenzing Palden.
  Weather pretty good. 
  Dingman has Girme Dorje and Nima Dorje at 4 today.
  J Roberts is at C2 and will stay there to supervise Sherpa movements and be second line of support.

  West Ridgers: 3 Sherpas with them: Pasang Temba, Ang Dorje, Tenzing Nima. This morning Gil Roberts says climbers in good spirits with windless day today. All 5 climbers and 3 Sherpas planned to go to C4 W today and tomorrow to send 3 climbers recon and put C5 W as light as possible leaving 2-3 hours ahead of others who would move up in support. Hoping might conceivably from there reach summit. Not yet decided who in advance (Unsoeld and Hornbein probably). Slim chance of traverse.

  Radio in apt - 21 May

  Radio contact with both South and West Ridge. Lute and Barry up C6. Dingman and 2 Sherpas to C5; he said he could see Lute and Bishop traversing.
  Weather fine today winds up high as usual.

  West Ridge moving high as can get with C5 - no time for higher camp. Tomorrow will push as high as can but chances of success very slim. Were up to 26,200 ft for C5. Theoretically will not continue upwards after tomorrow; put so much work into route may try another day or so but haven't sufficient oxygen, food, etc for much longer.

  Radio apt - 22 May, 5:00 pm

  Dyh: Weather very good today - no high winds. Al Auten at 8:15 am C4 W said weather beautiful. Unsoeld and Hornbein went up. Bishop and Jerstad went up from C6. From Pumori could see nothing of climbers - only 2 Sherpas seen. Have very high hopes but no news.
  [night from 7 o'clock at 5 and tomorrow 9:00 am and (base has contact with others at camps at 8:00 am]

  * C5 W at 27,200 ft
  * Dingman and Girme Dorje from C5 to C4 today base camp assumes

  Gombu son of Tenzing's elder sister who is dead.

  Radio in apt - 23 May

  Incomplete story: 9 am after leaving C5 N stocked by Emerson, Corbet and Auten and 3 Sherpas carried Will and Tom left C5 W 7 am yesterday and 6:30 pm Will and Tom on top of Everest. They climbed almost 12 hours difficult climbing. Started down towards Col 6; had enough oxygen for C6, no route back West Ridge.

  Hopefully assume Bishop reached summit yesterday am.
  No radio contact with South Col walkie-talkie today - maybe radios now down.

  At 6:30 at top winds had become quite strong West Ridge summiters reported to C2.

  11 am yesterday Bishop and Jerstad seen going up mountain approaching by Miller from C2. Good chance they both got to top.
  Radio contact at 1 and 5 pm today Kathmandu-base.

  9N1ME = Expedition
     DD = Gresham


  American Mt Everest Expedition

  Radio from expedition - 26 March

  Result of enquiry next day (24 March) at base camp by N Dyr, Dingman, Whittaker, Doody, Jerstad, Pownall, Bishop, Roberts, Unsoeld, Auten and Siri.
  "eye witness of about leading up to accident and afterwards"

  Breitenbach died 2 pm NST on 23 March in icewall fall of Khumbu Glacier - nature of accident: collapse of large wall of ice on ice face at altitude 19,000 ft, Body could not evacuated by rescue team at 5 pm because of great mass of ice - established body 20-30 ft under fallen icefall. Time of death was on team British Gil Roberts, Richard Pownall, Sherpas Ang Pema, Ila Tsering. Improvised path to icefall provened previous day by expert team.

  Ice wall section 60 X 30 + 20 feet winds collapsed directly on him. 3 others in party - injuries very minor to others.

  Dr. Roberts searched for Breitenbach but assured self could not have survived nor be recovered and returned to base camp. Others from base reached site before nightfall and agreed. Accident on act of God not due to negligence lack of experience: Roberts, Richard Pownall, Sherpa Ang Pema

  27 March

  3 parties on icefall today. 2nd party 1/2-2/3 up icefall where establish and emergency camp and - 3rd went all way to top of icefall and have reached into Cwm and this have route into W Cwm. If so will begin to establish advance base camp 1 in W Cwm.

  "Certainly is news to me" about reported death of 7 porters - "it is not our expedition but we know nothing of Hillary's expedition."

  29 March - reported by Gresham:

  In reply to yesterday's sympathy message from Sarni head of Indian Mountaineering to Expedition, Norman Dhyrenfurth said today Expedition deeply appreciate sympathy. Norman had just returned from icefall and said conditions were unusually severe, but good route completed today and camp at top of icefall will be occupied in strength on March 31st. 

  30 March - reported by Gresham:

  C1 established yesterday at 20,220 ft. Tomorrow C2 (advanced base camp) will be occupied in force at 21,500 ft. Tomorrow party of 4 (Bishop, Unsoeld, Emerson and Hornbein) going up to look at West Ridge. Weather has been very good.

  31 March - reported by Moran

  Still consolidating camps so no reconnaisance today nor tomorrow, probably day after tomorrow. National Geographic man arrived - snow at 2:00 pm today

  1 April - reported by Sallys 

  Direct radio contact made for 1st time between walkies-talkies unit (at C1 at top of Khumbu icefall) and Kathmandu through Expedition radio at base camp.

  At C1 today were Pownall, Bishop, Whittaker, Unsoeld, Jerstad, Gil Roberts, Emerson and Hornbein.

  C1 to be at 20,800 ft.
  Weather not good

  2 April - reported by Sallys

  Some members at base camp, some at dump, some at C1 and some at C2 (advance base).

  3 April

  C1 top of icefall. Only 500 ft above advanced base camp today just looking around. 

  No more patients - one sent down has intestinal TB. They think have innoculated all our high altitude porters so now have 100% vaccinated expedition.

  Advance base camp is at 21,300 ft. Thinking of 2 camps next: C4 first below Lhotse Face. Maybe in couple of days would occupy it. 3 went up today to look it one [if go West Ridge, will also go South Col, splitting forces - this said 4-5 days].

  C3 by Jerstad and Whittaker decided C3 probably very nearly settled by tonight at about 23,000 ft. Unsoeld and Barry on W Ridge = 2500 ft Bishop above advanced base camp 1500 ft at last word: last night no walkie-talkie talk with them so no further news from them yet.

  During day official temperature not much above 20's - but hot bright sun much warmer outside - very few clouds today.

  Dyhenfurth arrive base camp today from C2 in 4 hours. Laryngitis still. Haven't yet heard, but expect confirmation this evening that Hornbein and Bishop have reached top W Shoulder, probably 24,000 ft.

  C4 at about 24,500 ft on top Lhotse Face today or tomorrow by Whittaker, Pownall, Jerstad, Gil Roberts in about a week should be talking from advance base.

  6 April

  Unsoeld and others working on West Ridge 2 will probably stay halfway up it. J. Roberts to C1 tomorrow: Auten went there today. Maynard small accident to foot and will be necessary in base camp awhile: 200 yards from base and is back in tent now; paining great deal but Ok.

  Whittaker and Jerstad were to go up to C4 24,800 ft and hope to have it establish today. Dump will be required half way between advanced base and top West Ridge. At C1: Doody, Corbet, Auten; at base: Dyh, Emerson, Lester, J Roberts, Miller, Prather.

  7 April

  Have established C4 24,800 ft at Lhotse Face today. Whittaker, Jerstad, maybe Gombu at C4 working on West Ridge but no recent reports. Jim Roberts to C1, Corbet to C2 from C1, etc. Maynard Ok in bed.

  C4 not yet established. Pownall and Gil Roberts going to work there tomorrow. Whittaker and Gombu halfway up Lhotse Face despite strong winds today - more news on this tomorrow.

  Dyh plans to go on above C2 April 10 to take dig of Lhotse Face and hope by then to know whether West Ridge promises success. So will have 2-fold assault. Unsoeld in dig of W.

  Overcast and light snow. Dyh arrive 2 pm today at C1. Working on West Ridge route today Hornbein, Unsoeld and Bishop. Yesterday up to 800 vertical ft to C4. Others today should have finished the route and "carry" tomorrow from C2 to C3 and probably next day to C4.

  10 April

  Dyh and "crevasse [??] went today to C2. 1st camp out of advance base at 23,800 ft on (C3) on West Ridge. Unsoeld and Hornbein probably there last night.
  Pownall and Jerstad went up at least C4 or maybe above; they don't know where C4 is - no "carry" there yet so not really established yet. Don't know how long C3 W will last. Tomorrow will have conference on West Ridge and day after tomorrow probably have the news on getting very light sparkling of snow every night.

  11 April

  Weather poor so W recon probably accomplished little today. Wl look around some more tomorrow and return tomorrow night.

  12 April

  C3 W: Hornbein, Unsoeld and Bishop staying overnight and down to C2 tomorrow. Decion on West route will be known tomorrow.

  South Col route: big carry to C3 today but C4 not yet established because of work on West Ridge - established probably tomorrow. Snow falling lightly today.

  13 April

  West Ridge looks Barry & Prather talking like it has a route but will be difficult so putting South Col route 1st. Unsoeld, Barry Bishop and Hornbein went to 25,000 ft on West Ridge yesterday.

  On South Col route - at more today at 24,800 ft established C4 today:
  (took carry up and left it) Whittaker, Gombu, Nima Dorje and Pasang Temba. West Ridge work required all Sherpas power on West Ridge for 3 days, hence delay on establishing C4.

  14 April

  Everybody going to work on South Col until 2 men reach summit, then if time, tackle West Ridge. Weather clear this morning, snow after 2 pm.

  Bishop, Dingman going to go all the way after day or two of rest. Trying on 22nd though weather the big factor.

  Things going very smoothly at advance camp between 20th and 30th. 2 teams to the summit - including Whittaker, Dingman, Gombu and Nima Dorje, Bishop, Jerstad, Pownall, Dyhrenfurth, Ang Dawa = will be split into 2 strong teams - ready to go.

  Unsoeld going on West Ridge later with 3rd team if time permits. "We hope to hit the mountain but the 30th of the month weather being on one side."
  Having troubled with yellow band of rocks at 25-26000 ft.
  C2's and receiver on walkie-talkie not working.
  Lila Bishop arrive base camp today - all well with her party.

  17 April

  "At 3:13 pm 16 April Luke Jerstad, Pownall, Nima Tenzing and Choydenj (Sherpa) reached South Col at 26,000 ft between Everest and Lhotse. This is the earliest time of year that South Col has below attained. Next 7-10 days will be spent in carrying food, oxygen, tents and gear to C5 in the Col before C6 at 27,800 ft is established preliminary to first attempt at the same time preparations are under way for assault on West Ridge of Everest - statement signed by Dhy. C3 W has 2 men there today (Auten and Corbet).

  18 April

  Not much activity: carry from C2 to C3 - 2 fellows at C3 W setting up. 

  19 April

  On West Ridge 2 fellows same from C3 W - was to be carry from C3 to C4. This the main part of activities today.

  20 April

  Very high winds on Lhotse Face - not sure about carry to C4. On West Ridge no word; can only guess Auten and Corbet came down to C2 today.

  21 April

  C3 W evacuated today - most members at C2, some up on Pumori ridge from base taking pix.

  Big push is now on yellow band - will be news in next few days. Haven't yet slept in South Col. Push is to get carries into col and establish camp there.
  Weather snowing now. Last few days higher up high winds blowing snow badly. C3 W also had bad winds. Estimate 100 mph winds on Lhotse summit; base camp at 18,000 ft

  22 April

  No news to report. Weather on Lhotse Face "lousy." Hope to establish team in Col about 25th. Bishop and Dingman up to C3 tomorrow leaving only liaison and Miller at base. Others have gone already to C2 to work on South Col route. Wind and clouds in South Col. Ready for 1st break in weather.

  23 April

  Corbet and Auten came low base camp today. Didn't hear helicopter and weather looks bad a Namche area now. Radio to stay at base.

  6 loads into South Col yesterday. West Ridge group took 6 loads up West Ridge. 
  Auten will be with West Ridge group.

  24 April

  Weather today: sun and high clouds haze. By 9:00 am solid wall of clouds steadily deteriorated throughout day with snow showers. Porter arrived today from Thyangboche where weather has been very poor and didn't hear helicopter but would have been suprised if had. Expect poor weather for next several days.

  [Pilatus Porter will scout route tomorrow if weather permitting - looking for Nicolas and Auten helicopter which left KTM yesterday].

  10 Sherpas carry to Col reached yellow band today. No movement beyond col, but getting very close to assault time so no more names of movement of men from camp to camp. When successful attempts made will gives no names - will release names only when all attempts finished.

  Lhotse and Nuptse not abandoned but downgraded - depends on how climbers feel when Everest climbed and weather.

  25 April

  Weather lousy. Suspect today letter writing day all up and down the camps - really only bad day have had yet.


  Ullman - 25 April

  No climbing news, bad weather. 2 ft of snow in Cwm in past 4 days. Today fine till early pm. In past days mainly Sherpa carries to South Col. Think no one yet slept there. Reaching summit by 30th now seems impossible according to Auten - Ullman.

  Ullman - 28 April

  C5 established on col about 26,000. 1st assault party started up yesterday from advance base: 4 climbers and 13 porters (not all Sherpas above Col). 2nd assault party started today: 4 and 4 - each group to spend 1 night at successive camps. Target date for summit is Wed. West Ridge 2nd day but still on program. Weather fine am, clouds pm.

  Karppi - 24 April

  3rd party of 2 climbers and C4 Sherpas = support party for 2nd party left C2 for C3 today. 1st assault party from C4 to C5 today and 2nd from C3 to C4 today.

  Radio in apt - 29 April

  3rd assault party is hoped will climb Lhotse, but don't want to call it Lhotse party because then will have to explain if it doesn't go up Lhotse - so calling it publicly support party to 2nd Everest assault party.

  Radio in apt - 30 April

  No news to announce today. Hornbein and Unsoeld at base camp ten days. Won't know about C6 arrival till 6 pm but weather looked bad in early am. Again in mid-late afternoon - have had no word from porters yet today; will talk again at 6 and next am.

  1 May am

  Gresham talked to base camp lsst night through Ceylon. First team last night at C6 - intention to have it at 27,800 ft.

  Radio in apt - 1 May, 5:00 pm

  No news today from higher camps. Weather has been bad today and unlikely summit reached today.

  Ullman - 1 May, 5 pm

  Weather was good in am, bad in pm. 2nd and 3rd assault team did not move up today. but don't know about 1st team.

  Radio in apt - 1 May, 6:30 pm

  No radio contact still today with highest camp so no news.

  Radio in apt - 2 May, 5 pm

  No news - no contact with highest camps today or yesterday either directly or by relay through advance base. No movement of Sherpas up from Col. Weather windy at base with low clouds so couldn't judge what going on higher up.

  Ullman: possibility they're waiting till all finished is sad news. Hornbein and Unsoeld are at base still but may leave for West Ridge tomorrow.

  Ullman - 2 May, 7:30 pm

  Via Ceylon's as yesterday 1 May 1:00 pm, 2 men reached summit (via Dan Wallen in Ceylon out of Colombo on tea plantation).

  Radio in apt - 3 May

  1 American and Sherpa reached summit 1 pm local time May 1st. Climb made in very light winds and low temperature. Climbers left C6 at 6:30 am and reached South Summit 11:30 am and main summit 1:00 pm. Flags of US Nepal flown on summit. Summit and support party have returned to base camp tired, but in good condition. No evidence of previous expeditions found at summit (letter from HM read by US ambassador).

  West Ridge plans proceeding - next ascent when weather better C6 27,600 ft

  Ullman - 3 May

  Plans for 2nd 2-man assault by S Col route and assault on West Ridge are going ahead. Weather not good (wind) so waiting till it improves for 2nd South Col attempt; congrats from Kennedy.
  HM and TG
  Stebbus, Dyh and Leader

  A few men still at advance base but most expedition members at base.

  Radio in apt - 4 May

  Dyrenfurth at C2. Hoped to be at base today but bad weather; will be on air from base tomorrow with news. About one week before next big push. Men will benefit by rest at lower altitude at base. Looked windy and cloudy high on mountain.

  5 May

  Dyrenfurth arrive today at base. 2 men in support of summiters 28,100 ft.

  Practically all at base, except 4-5 who are assumed at advanced base. 4-man assault team spent night April 30th at C6; other 2 men of this party got only to 28,160 (below S Summit). Weather very bad day of summit climb. From base camp tomorrow men will start off via both routes. Ullman assumes may be tiring assault so 2 porters can meet at top via 2 routes.

  Presumably these first off tomorrow will be West Ridgers who have had then weeks rest since West Ridge will take longer. Perhaps 10 days to top from tomorrow Ullman estimates, but no target dates given on radio. Ullman guesses won't try Nuptse - that was probably washed out on W Ridge.

  Establish departure from base 22 May, in Banepa 6 June
  State Dept Cultural Exchange for 3 Nepalese and Darjeeling Indians: Nepalese Sherpas not yet chosen, but Gambu and Ang Dawa IV chosen as well as liaison officer.

  -20 degrees in col, winds above 80 mph in col, about -30 degrees at summit, snowing on way down from summit. Stayed 1/2 hour on summit - could see in all directions except east. 1 American and Sherpa in support party - celebrations everyone slept 24 hours.

  2 Americans and above 12 Sherpas up icefall from base today
  Dates of current climb flexible; most watch weather. Dyh at base today.


  Ullman - 6 May

  About 12 Americans now at base so about 4 already above. 

  Radio in apt - 7 May

  Heavy overcast at base today. Dyh at base today, return Kathmandu 6 June. Will stay 1 week; schedule thereafter unknown - cable message from Bishop to National Geographic.
   
  2-man attempt on W Ridge. 12-man attempt on South Col. No climbers went up today, only porter laods.

  Ullman - 7 May

  Very likely West Ridge team would come down from summit via South Col, but unlikely South Col team would come down West Ridge.

  Radio in apt - 8 May

  No messages from base camp who could not hear KTM.

  Radio in apt - 9 May

  Auten climbing; Dyh at base: stopped snowing finally and trying to clear.
  Mailrunners left today, should arrive KTM 19 May. 
  7 climbers "up the hill," rest at base camp
  Prather on radio:
  Climbers names 1st assault reached top Whittaker and Gombu
  2nd Supporter Dhy and Ang Dawa IV to 20,000 ft
  2nd assault team from South Col: Bishop, Jerstad, Pownall and Girmi Dorje - got only few hundred feet above South Col to meet others coming down. 
  8 Solokhumbu Sherpas carried loads.

  Ullman - 9 May

  A miracle they got to top, Norman said via relay voice because of cold and wind. 8 Solukhumbu Sherpas to 27,400 ft which is record to have so many high. 2nd assault team went only 200-300 ft above South Col.

  2-man assault team now up trying by South Col: Bishop and Jerstad. In support 2 Roberts and 4 Sherpas. Have not all left base. West Ridge team will be Unsoeld, Hornbein, Auten and undisclosed numbers of Sherpas. This 28,000 ft was Dyh's highest; about 25,500 ft his previous highest on Lhotse Face '52.

  Ullman - 22 May

  Dyh emphasized work done by West Ridgers who carried to C5 W: Emerson, Corbet, Auten and Sherpas. Unsoeld and Hornbein left C5 W at 7 am - was 4th degree climbing including pitons in rock and reached top 6:30 pm with walkie-talkie; at 6:33 talked from top to Miller at C2 who relayed to base. Return via South Col. No one knows where spent night.

  "It has been dream of mountaineers for decades to do a major Himalayan traverse [up one side and down another]; tried only once by Fred on Nanda Devi: and unsuccessful. "We are particularly happy and proud that our men have not only made the first Himalayas traverse but that this traverse was on Everest" - emphasized team effort.

  Whittaker radio contact in arm yesterday. Unsoeld and Hornbein working slowly one at a time driving pitons - were planning go for summit. No route back because rappel rope and pitons; did have 1-1/2 tanks oxygen each. Whittaker warned them not to take too many risks. Next contact at top of yellow band and confirmed would go on: no wind and warm - this last contact at 3 pm. At summit wind stronger and starting get dark they reported at 6:33. Bishop and Jerstad lack contact because weak batteries. 

  West Ridge support party at C2 last night. No radio contact with high camps this morning - no news. Hope Sherpas will arrive this afternoon at base with news. May have men down to C2.

  23 May, 5 pm

  Weather fine - another good afternoon at base.
  Dyh: news very good, everyone in good health. 4 men reached summit - Bishop & Jerstad 3:30 afternoon yesterday. 4 men bivouacked without tents and sleeping bags at 28,000 ft.

  Bishop and Jerstad simultaneously left then C6 as others left C5 W - waited around South Summit on way down for West Ridgers. 4 came down towards South C6; Lute leading, but lost route in dark and bivouacked at 28,000 ft.

  Dingman and Girme Dorjee at C6 last night. Today went up looking for 4 summiters when summiters didn't reach C6 yesterday. Were high enough on mountain and well equiped enough to have reached peak but met 4 returning and turned back to help them return since they were obviously tired by mid-afternoon on Lhotse Face and radioed they were all night - will have plenty of food and oxygen.

  Auten, Corbet, Emerson and some Sherpas (27) evacuated West Ridge bringing all could carry and now at C2. Everyone at C2 or C3 tonight. Tomorrow all at base - whole team sahibs and Sherpas at base tomorrow night.

  Dyh: no matter how strong team you have unless you have some luck you're not going to succeed. Fortunately despite some set backs in early period had very good luck - had extraordinarily good team Sherpas and Sahibs alike. "We consider ourselves extremely lucky".

  Doody: "this a milestone in mountaineering history." Trip in took up abut 1 month to base camp. We can make it out in 10-12 days - really in 5 days but have to wait for porters.

  Siri: scientific work has gone exceeding by well - find results 6-9 months from now - at higher altitude than others research done before. Dhy on 2nd day out of KTM decided West Ridge ascent worth much more than Lhotse and Nuptse - happy blend of science and mountaineering. "We have climbed the mountain and we feel very good about it."

  Dr Jerstad, Bishop, Unsoeld, Hornbein and Sherpas C2 tonight. This now being relayed by Unsoeld from C4 to base. Hope reach C2 8 or 8:30 this evening - in good shape. Unsoeld says this his last Himalayan climb in message to wife.

  Plan to evacuate C2 tomorrow am. C2 just now (6:10 pm) reported by radio to base. J. Roberts is at C2 supervising evacuation of mountain by Sherpas (8-9 arrive today with big loads). Final broadcast from base tomorrow.

  Radio in apt 24 May

  Summiters on way to base. J. Roberts arrive from C1 today - yesterday just below C1 broken up spot and fell apart - put in 75-100 ft traverse at 45 degree angle - fortunate happened now when people only going down because impossible go up it.

  Summiters have left C2, delayed by above spot - are coming down icefall. Gil Roberts had contact with Dingman coming down now. *Unsoeld and Bishop have severe frostbite. All but injured walking out - if walk will lose some toes; must be flown out.

  Getting these men to Namche would be ordeal. Helicopter waited closer to base camp if possible - arrive 26 May be at Periche.
  (9 am contact with KTM)

  Found party by Stebbins for expedition - HMs to be invited.
  Summiters did not get to C2 till almost 10:30 last night.
  Unsoeld and Bishop will be carried from base down.

  All summiters fingers Ok; not to reach Banepa till 9 June at earliest. Busy packing up and waiting for people above return to base.

  Dyh: please do not forget supporters; never would have put camp at 27,200 on West Ridge and never would have reached summit without them.

  All summiters and support people will be at base within one hour, walkie-talkie says now at 5:40 pm,

  Radio in apt - 25 May

  Hornbein, Bishop speaking from base camp - Unsoeld sleeping.
  Ullman says pilot opposed trying go higher than Namche (12,400 ft at Namche Dyh says, Thyangboche 13,000 ft). Dyh says Thyangboche 26 May or Namche 28 May.

  -15 degrees but no wind on bivouac - had already run out of oxygen; didn't get any till met Dingman and Girmi Dorje came up. Bishop spent night at 28,000; -18 degrees F, no wind 10-15 mph if winds had been as in day (50-70) we would not be talking to you. Out of oxygen till Dingman and Girme came up to help. Bishop and Jerstad beards [??] buried at C6 - hence late start.

  Hornbein: on West Ridge, part of time on North Face and rock was typical of North Face (down sloping and very rotten), generally pretty unpleasant climbing except last stage on snowfield.

  Unsoeld: I am getting warmer and maybe it is all for the best.

  Starting from base camp down now - helicopter to Thyang 27 May or Namche 28 May. Special appeal to get men out as quickly as possible. Dingman says they will be all right.

  US flag still flying when summit reached by summiters. West Ridgers found it sight for sore eyes.

  26 May

  Radio contact (Manpac) very bad; assume Expedition requesting helicopter tomorrow not Tuesday.

  27 May

  Dr's report: general condition excellent, no weight loss or dehydration, only exhausted except frostbite: minimum frostbite of some fingers, frostbite of all 10 toes each. Meanwhile symptartic treatment being give but not surgery. Contemplates rheotran onto frostbite not here yet both have chest pains from piggy back video.
   
  Jerstad carried down as preventive and for first time few days below at Namche will ride horse; talking from Namche today - 7 June from Rising. Next fixed radio contact at 17:00 hours - arrive Banepa and KTM 9 June.

  (check Ullman Wed 5 pm for med bulletin).

  7 June

  Auten from Chanbas. Japanese party on Numbur - 4 Japanese climbers on Numbur - 4 climbers successful about 29 May or 30 22,800 ft peak.

  10 am at Banepa 9 June. Jerstad doing very well. 

  Ullman - 24 May

  West Ridge difficulties: strata slopes downward giving effect of shingled roof in yellow band. 4th degree climbing and use of pitons indicates steep rock climbing which is not encountered on col route. On West Ridge band occurs just below 28,000 (lower on Lhotse Face where not as steep - 25,500 ft - maybe 100 ft of it).

  French traverse - see Tiger of Snows by Tenzing and Ullman - Chapter "The Sacred Mountain".

  Maps - see Hunt's Ascent of Everest map. Arrive Tibetan side at most 100 ft between C3 and C4 W - maybe again higher.

  Pix - 27 May

  1. Mrs Unsoeld (glasses) and Mrs Bishop awaiting helicopter outside hospital (Shanta Bhawan) compound (hospital in background) where helicopter to land with their husbands.

  Shanta Bhawan - 27 May

  Dr Robert Berry, Aldano, PA in charge of case. Walked slowly with some effort - Unsoeld cracked lip but twinkle in eye - have not had food and sleep for "some time." Arrived 9:12 am NST.

  1-7 sitting on steps outside emergency room of hospital with wives where held brief press conference.

  Press Conf: some blue-black finger nails.
  Unsoeld: "Were pretty tired and no breakfast yet."
  "would like to emphasize it was a group effort - a perfect team which had highest characteristics of cooperation among all members of expedition." We carried out plans as they had been formulated and did to as a team - involved cooperation between 2 parties of South Col and West Ridge without which might not have returned at all.

  Bishop: "he envisioned even since left Kathmandu possibility of putting 2 teams on summit by 2 routes", not last minute decision. South Col route climbed by 2 previous expeditions British and Swiss. We had a time table of trying to put several ropes up South Col route up by early May and able put Whit and Gombo on 1 May but not others because of logistic problems and weather; so all withdrew to base and rested. Moved up again with log support and coordination with magnificient work being down on West Ridge by Unsoeld and his party. Set 22 May as assault date after storm 19 May. Wanted support from West Ridge and give it to them in belief they would have to traverse. 

  Unsoeld: on West Ridge recon completed 17 April, but long difficult, unable progress have till at least 1 month. Plan to have South Col party support us; involved again team work whole expedition characterized by. Party had to wait for West Ridge team get its position when they themselves ready to go up. Was did have one storm which below is different mountain and looked very unlikely get to top and abandoned idea 2 teams up from West Ridge got strong Sherpa support and put everything into effort. All good Sherpas down to base.

  Bishop: C1 Sherpas reaches C6 a record for Sherpa performance.
   
  Unsoeld: carried from 25,000 ft to 27,100 in one day, put up one little tent, 1 stove and 1 found 1 box. Hornbein and I took one next day and went to summit - met South Col group but unable find C6.

  Bishop: support party of Dingman and Girme Dorje Unsoeld have gone to summit on 23 May if not had to support us - great credit goes to them to in this 2nd summit assault.

  Unsoeld: matched on West Ridge by Emerson, Auten and Corbet who were responsible for carry to high camp and stood by in case in had to come back killing their chance for summit.

  Bishop: big thrill from this expedition was team work and integration of personalities to common goal.

  Unsoeld: this integration of personality not easy to achieve but in this case was accomplished - no one left on outside of team.
   
  Unsoeld bivouac: all out of oxygen and Tom and I later by 2 hours at rendezvous - way off in dark in wind and snow. So Hornbein and Unsoeld wanted to bivouac but kept going down and voices closer and then 2 blues appeared in darkness and fell into crevasse and voice sound Ges that it you're almost there - found not Dingman but Bishop and Jerstad who had heard voices way off and stopped to wait for them. Would 2 hours "which is quite a sacrifice." All went down together very very tired trying find C6 but finally picked out a rocky patch and layed down on it. "Did not dig or anything else - tried kick feet but kicked each other - very casual type bivouac" - around 28,000 ft. 

  Bishop: once light came Bishop and Jerstad found way down towards C6 and coming up were Dingman and Dorje. Unsoeld and Hornbein went on ahead of Bishop and Jerstad - saw 2 coming up and waiting for them. 2 expecting to recover bodies of Bishop and Jerstad and asked Unsoeld and Hornbein "what you doing here?"

  Spent 2 hours at C6 - am down to C2 all in one day - late at night at C2. Next day to base camp after dark. Next am left base "everything just went - Barry and I were riding over moraine on backs of men." Did 3 days march to Pheriche by that night; yesterday were to go Thyangboche but it was decided should go on and ended up late last night at Namche. This morning served tea at 6:25 and at 6:30 helicopter arrived.
   
  Biv at base of South Summit.

  Unsoeld: were feeling tired but otherwise fine - can't feel frostbite. Bishop carried so not to be bruised. 

  Unsoeld: from summit could see plains of Tibet with snowy islands sticking out - did not find bust - one of great sights was American flags. 

  Bishop: wind had not frayed flag off picket; tattered

  Unsoeld: carried up crucifix given by Wash priest on 1st recon on S approach to Everest. Unsoeld also fasted and 2 prayer flags to scarf of Sherpas and left there on top also - tracks of 1 May ascent there.

  Both wearing dark green trouser into huge boots - grey small checked wool shirts. Wylie about condition of Bishop and Unsoeld: "I want to see what's under under those boots". Spoke very coherently.

  Dr. Berry - 27 May pm

  Will be hospitalized for matter of weeks he expects, whether here or in US - impossible to tell now whether will lose toes; has frostbite in all 20 toes but in very good general condition (little loss of weight). Physiotherapy twice/day: water mildly circulating to cleanse feet.

  Dr. Eldred D. Mundth arrived. In Navy - Naval Med Res Institute at Bethesda - doing residence in frostbite intensively for past 5-6 mos - low molecular weight Dextran; Pharmaceutical of Upsulla Swed (has with him also).
  Michin M. Payne, executive VP of Mog and Soe - Secy for comittee of Res and Exploration - Bethesda 

  Statement by Berry - 29 May

  The general condition of Everest climbers Unsoeld and B Bishop continues good. With regard to their frostbite injuries it is still too early to evaluate the full extent of their injuries. However there has been marked improvement in the condition of their injuries and they are responding to their present therapy. Today they received whirlpool therapy for the first time.

  The climbers have had the benefit of consultation with Dr. E. D. Mundth who is a specialist in the field of cold injury and association with the Naval Med Res Institute in Bethesda, Maryland. Dr. Mundth arrived in Kathmandu today. Further studies are in progress.

  Payne: haven't decided whether use Dextran or not; will decide presumably tomorrow; expender with unique property of increasing peripheral flow.

  Statement by Drs. Berry and Mundth - 31 May

  The general condition of the 2 members of the Mt. Everest expedition Mr. Barry Bishop and Mr. William Unsoeld remains good. There continues encouraging improvement in both. Yesterday intravenous therapy having low molecular weight Dextran was started and is being continued. A further shipment of the drug has arrived from the US. Whirlpool treatment and physiotherapy are being continued. Dr. Berry and Dr. Mundth stated that it would be impossible to make any prediction as to the ultimate prognosis of the affected toes for another one to two weeks.

  Ullman - 31 May

  Nepalese Sherpas to US:
  Girmi Dorje - who was with Bishop on 1st summit attempt and Ringma Ile Tsering
  who was slightly involved in Breitenbach accident.

  Sherpas in tremendous carry to C5 W to 27,200 ft. Trip sponsored by American Everest Film, financed by US Dept of State Cultural Exchange Programme. Will do extensive traveling in 4-6 weeks in US and same mountain climbing in West. Its hoped they will be able leave for US same time as Expedition and travel with them across Europe.

  6 June

  Medical report signed by Drs Berry and Mundth: "The general condition of the 2 climbers remains excellent. During post few days both have suffered a bout of fever which was unrelated to their frostbite and which was felt to be due to an upper respiratory infection and which responded promptly to therapy. The frostbite injuries daily show improvement. Then men have completed their course of therapy with the low molecular weight Dextran and it is felt that there was definite improvement of the blood flow to the toes. This was determined by skin temperature readings made on the areas of injury before and after the administration of the drug. Although it is still too early to finally determine the results of the injury and the amount of permanent damage which will be sustained, the Drs are hopeful that the amount of permanent tissue damage will not be extensive altitude is felt that the healing is progressing so well that the climbers will be able to travel if necessary within 2 weeks. This does not imply that within this period of time they will be working".

  Mundth returning to Washington and does not expect to return to US. Bishop plans to go to Wash end of June. When men can walk depends on whether surgery necessary because of damage to Bishops 5th fingers as well as toes considered here.

  Ullman - 6 June

  Members arrived this afternoon. Left expedition 6/2 march to Junbesi. Had tried radio contact with portable radio between Kathmandu, but not listening. Expect arrive Panchkal noon Sunday 9 June and Banepa 3-4 bours later. Jerstad with frostbitten carried by porters to Junbesi from 25 May and from base 28 May arrived Jungbesi 1 June.

  Hoped soon get horses for him. At Junbesi 2-20 porters still with expedition. Took high route 2nd day below Namche and rejoined old route about Junbesi.
  Nima Tsering, Nepal Sherpa also go to US.

  Unsoeld - 8 June

  25 miles base to Namche extends stay KTM unless President Kennedy orders him back for meeting of Expedition with him with rest of Expedition - otherwise stay here take own Peace Corps duties soon as possible (almost certain take over as Dir of Corps in US). 

  "I have now entered ranks of family climbing. I have no major expeditions wants to climb in back of mind. I have done four now and that's more than most get a crack at."

  "All returns not in yet but as of now yes it was worth it - don't know how many toes will lose but even if you lost all your toes it would still be worth it - this is an opportunity that cares so seldom in a man's lifetime."

  Bishop: About 20-22 June he and Lila will go directly to Washington - hospitalization probably not required in Washington. If I had known prior to climbing the mountain I would buffer this injury in climbing the mountain I would still have proceeded - sure it's worth it. When I can get around again I'd like to do some fun mountaineering with Lila - Tetons, Canadian Rockies or Alps where you can breathe even at the top and whole thing complete enjoyment.

  "An experience like Everest is something now wouldn't want to trade for anything but wouldn't want to repeat for anything - I've had one moment of truth and one is enough."

  * Willi Unsoeld 
  Tom Hornbein summited Everest on 22 May route West Ridge-North Face up; SE Ridge down.


expid: TAKP63301
peakid: TAKP
year: 1963
nation: Japan
leaders: Hisao Ando
sponsor: Northwest Nepal Scientific Research Exp of Hokkaido Univ
termnote: Did not climb; member and liaison officer arrested by Chinese
othersmts: Recon Takphu Main Peak, climbed Takphu minor peak (rte from N side, 1st ascent)
routememo:
  Miyaji leaving Tuesday to Patna if can get seat.


  Miyaji and Ando - 30 Dec 63

  Foreign Ministry did not call them in - went according to schedule to give brief report on expedition (detailed report will be sent from Japan). If Mt Nalakankar is 24,000 ft then is in Tibet, but Nalakankar is 21,895 feet according the French. Min saw a map in For Ministry yesterday which says Nalakankar is 6500 meters - map is corrected - is only problem of name of mountain - "so I cannot say Mt Nalakankar is in Tibet" say Ando. I think Nalakankar because we should believe map of For Min for other details see For Min - problem of China as well as Map so we cannot speak about it. For Min said nothing about climbing mountain without permission. This same range as Nalakankar.

  Plan to leave Kathmandu tomorrow.


  Khatri - 29 Dec 63

  Asked them to give press statement regarding Nalakankar.

  Nalakankar not 24,000 ft; according to old survey is 21,895 ft Nepal govt found during boundary determination. 24,000 figure unfortunately perpetuated by Sardul serious reprimand for talking about boundary demarcation and for climbing mountain without permission. Told Japanese should be charged fee for 2nd mountain but will waive that.


  Miyaji and Ando - 26 Dec 63

  Climbed Takphu Himal 20,000 lesser peak of massif (cannot find Nalakankar - but a mountain 24,000 ft which is in China) probably is Nalakankar - Nyamonyos is local name (only name known in area).
   
  Takphu sub-peak 6000m climbed by Ando, Endo and Hashimoto and 2 Sherpas: Pasang Sherpa and Rinjing Sherpa (Solokhumbu) on Oct 18th noontime. First time climbed by man. 2 camps on mountain - base camp was 4500m, C1 at 5200m. C2 at 5600-5700m. Climbed from north side - mountain not on border. 

  Oct 5 establish 1st base camp for Nyamnoyal which is north of Takphu. Ryuji Miyagi 28 years old of Nagoya RR Co and Sherpa Ang Temba from Solo Khumbu were taken by 30 Tibetan villagers Oct 23rd - when had gone to find route to highest Takpu Himal peak; pitched tent near border on 23rd. Porung villagers came and surrounded them same night and took them to village. Villagers told by Chinese doubtful people appear, should be captured. One night in village and on 24th met 6 Chinese armed soldiers and taken to Taklakot - 3 days in Taklakot: released 27th am after friendly, kind treatment. Chinese had contacted Nepal checkpost and anyway Chinese not sure where border was. Ando learned of arrest when villagers came to tell. They reached rest of expedition at base Oct 31 (entered Nepal Oct 29). Had been told by villagers Nyamgpol in Tibetan territory. Climbed into 3 parties to survey borders exactly. Oct 10 expedition decided Nyamgpol in Tibet and would try Takphu Himal instead. Takpu snowcapped not very difficult to climb. Established base camp for it Oct 12.

  Out Oct 31 Ando no longer at base; had gone below because had been decided to leave base Nov 3; actually base camp abandoned Nov 8.

  No accidents.
  Other 4 members: 2 went to Bombay from Nepalgunj Dec 24 - arrive Japanese end Jan (Tendo and Hashimoto).
  2 crossing West Nepal to Pokhara - Onoda - Nepalgunj to Delhi Watanabe - may come to KTM.
  Ando and Miyaji leave Kathmandu after 3-4 days meet 2 in Bombay.


  From Nepal chkpost by wireless  
  22nd Oct, Munchu

  About 33 Chinese mounted soldiers reported to have gone towards Nalakankar from Taklakot on or about Oct 18th having heard about Japanese expedition to Nalakankar. 


  12 Nov, Simikot

  1 member Japanese Nalakankar Himal Expedition along with the Nepal liaison officer Manik Lal were arrested near the border at Kangje Village and take to Taklakot by the Chinese patrol on or about Oct 23 and released after some days. It is said that they have since joined other members of their party for continuing expedition. It is said they had lost their way and reached Kangje which is a border on Chinese side.


  22 July 63 - Hokkaido University

  Hisao Ando of Kyoto - leader
  Expedition sponsored by Academic Alpine club of Hokkaido
  3 Sherpas and 50 porters from Nepalgunj
  Ando is official of Hokkaido Dev Bureau
  He stays Kathmandu 10 days - then to Delhi and Bombay - begins expedition from Nepal going mid-August
  Hopes to reach summit mid Oct, return Kathmandu end Nov - never in Himalayas before
  6 men expedition to Nalakankar - none ever in Himalayas before
  Mountain Nalakankar never attempted before


  27/23/63

  Hokkaido Expedition to Nalakankar

  leader Hisao Ando, 30 years old  -> Hokkaido Dev.
         Ryuji Miyaji, 27 years old  -> Nagoya Railway Co. Ltd
         Teiichi Endo, 29 years old  -> Onoda Cement Co. Ltd lives in Yokohama
         Masato Hashimoto, 24 years old -> post graduate in medicine
         Okitsugu Watanabe, 23 years old -> undergraduate in geology
         Fumakira Onodo, 29 years old -> student at New Delhi University
            (working on MA in politicala science) - from Kyoto


  Hokkaido University Expedition

  Nepalgunj - Sallyama - Jajarkot - Simikot = 1 month - thence to Nalakankar
  Sherpas - 1. Ang Temba
            2. Nima Tsering (Osaka City Univ 1961 expedition accident survivor)
            3. Rinjing (Nepal)

  Liaison Officer: Manik Lal Tuladhar (relative of Poorna Harsha Bajracharya)
  Nepalgunj merchant handling messages: Krisha Gopal Tandon (his house is near Govt. House)

  Ando left Kathmandu 27 July 63


expid: LANG63301
peakid: LANG
year: 1963
route1: E Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Lino Andreotti
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to fatal accident
othersmts: Claimed climbed Kyungka (1st ascent claimed) and Shalbachum (SHAL-633-01)
campsites: BC,C1,C2,xxx(6000m)
accidents: Rossi and Volante killed in fall
routememo:
  Akira Ban - 23 Aug 1978

  Italians in 1963 autumn (Langtang expedition) were mistaken about their having climbed Kyungka. They were on other peaks and did make 2nd ascent of Shalbachum (1st ascent was by Japanese in about 1960).


  Kyungka - 1st ascent claimed 20 Oct, probably were on another mountain
  Shalbachum - 2nd ascent, 20 Oct


  Lino Andreotti - 7 Nov 1963

  Expedition returned this afternoon. Langtang impossible to climb at this time because of avalanche, great crevasses and glaciers, but exploration successful and climbing other peaks also success. No incidents except fatal accident. Rossi body on glacier has been moved below fatal spot; had to leave there because of continous big avalanches. Place where 2nd camp was destroyed by avalanche. Had put up C3, expected reach summit after 5-6 days more with 2 more camps. All surviving members good health. 3 members coming by Gosindkund will be in tomorrow: Rabbi, Risso and Rossa reservations to leave Nov 12.

  No plans to return to Himalayas, but very charming.


  27 Oct 1963

  Body of Rossi recovered 200m below spot at which died. 1st and 2nd camps evacuated. Expedition preparing to begin long march back to KTM. Bad weather impeded climb of Langtang but expedition has probably arrived summit in some range which had not yet been climbed as memorial of 2 dead. Expedition hopes leave KTM 10th Nov.

  20th Oct 2 groups:
  1) Mellano 29 Andrea municipal employer
     Rabbi   20 Dino 
  2) Rossa   29
     Risso   27 Alberto bank bookkeeper

  Climbed 2 virgin peaks of range of Lirung, about 7000 meters (one altimeter was in pocket of Rossi who died and Hanki in his pocket - other only calibrated up to 6000m).

  3 camps on each peak no oxygen masks.

  31 Oct base camp evacuated and expedition went to Langtang village. Today starting for Kathmandu; arrive 7-8 Nov and have reservations out of KTM Nov 12.


  Griglie - 20 Oct 63

  Everything going very well. Doctor had to go high to acclimatize; if he reached - he stayed 16th at 2nd camp with Rossi. Evening of 16th weather cloudy but very warm so left snow and night not cold so snow didn't harden. Avalanche fell so 17th 8am started down to base. Talking on radio to C1 and C1 people saw them with binoculars and saw them of all at beginning of fixed rope; believe piece of ice fell or small avalanche hit on head or slipped fell in loose snow - fell 15 meters. Immediately Rabbi and 2 Sherpas set out from 1st camp and others very soon afterwards. Rossi died instantly from skull fracture: Dr. Volante injured; tried get up and slid to Rabbi and lost conscious. Dangerous passage to base camp because of icefall; brought him to basecamp. During night 17-18 was in C1 and Griglie went to cheese factory where was advised to send for helicopter. 18th am brought Volante to base camp over terrible terrain in sleeping bag and arrive there afternoon 18th and spoke again about testing his limbs: left shoulder fracture and apparently internal fractures. Griglie spent night with him in tent (he was delirious). Next day 19th died 1 pm; Volante buried this am at base camp. Rossi in glacier and tomorrow members may go to body but this very dangerous. Evacuating camps.


  Andreotti & Griglie - 17 Sept 63

  1963 is centenary of Alpine Club of Italy; this expedition celebrating this founding 100 years ago in Turin.

  More climbed in Himalayas before; all have climbed famous Alps.

  Mellanano (famous climber) North Face of Matterhorn this August; last year North Face Eiger; he is very short - 1 meter 60 cm. Leader will do film for IT TV. Geologist and doctor will perhaps go above base camp but LaStampa not.


  Griglie - 25 Sept 63

  Lt. expedition mailrunner:
  Pundri Sherpa
  Bamandu
  Other Sherpas
  Sirdar Nemi Sherpa
  HAP Aila Nodi
  HAP Mingma Tsering
  Cook Kale Man Bahadur
  liaison - Krishna Bikram Rana
  135 porters

  Go to Trisuli Bazar and up Trisuli River (North Face in Tibet) and to South Face of Langtang - probably return same route.

  2 Japanese expeditions have tried to climb it.


  Risso Alberto - 13 Sept 63

  Franceschetti Bortolo, geologist

  10 members - other 8 arrive Monday 16 Sept
  1 geologist
  1 doctor
  7 climbers
  1 journalist
  --
  10  (Royal Hotel)

  Baggage arrives KTM about 20th; expedition leaves KTM soon as customs cleared.


expid: SAIP63301
peakid: SAIP
year: 1963
route1: S Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kanji Kojima
sponsor: Doshisha Himalayan Expedition
ascent1: 1st
approach: Pithoragarh->Baitadi->Bojang->BC
bcdate: 1963-09-27
smtdate: 1963-10-21
smttime: 1205
termdate: 1963-10-31
campsites: BC(27/09),C1(02/10,4750m),C2(08/10,5800m),C3(17/10,6070m),C4(20/10,6450m),Smt(21/10)
routememo:
  Hirabayashi - 12 Dec 63

  Still in Pokhara: K. Sato and K. Okada; they return Kathmandu 10 Dec. Hirabayashi (leader) arrives Kathmandu today. 2 others Matsumura and Fukuda coming to Pokhara another route and return to Kathmandu in 10 days. Stay here 3-4 days, then 4 to Delhi (4 days) and to Calcutta; at end of this to Japan (all members to meet in Calcutta, then to Japan together).


  Hirabayashi - 27 July 63

  Doshisha University is foremost Christian University in Japan (Doshisha means gathering of Christians) - Kyoto

  5 Sherpas: 

  (1) Pasang Phutar III from Darjeeling (born 1933 Solokhumbu)
      Sirdar - Swiss Everest 1952
      Kanchenjunga British 1954 (success 1954)
      With Tucci in 1955 northwest Nepal 
      Argentine Dhaulagiri 1956 and 1957
      Indian Nanda Devi 1956
      Austrian Cho Oyo 1954

  (2) Lhakpa Tshering from Darjeeling (born 1920)
      Dyhrenfurth Lhotse 1955
      Makalu 1955 (not successful)
      Manaslu 1956 (successful)
      Japanese Himal Chu

  (3) Pemba Tenzing from Khumjung - 31
      Japanese Api 1960 (successful)
      American Everest [Makalu?] 1954
      Ama Dablam 1958 and 1959

  4)  Kami Pasang from Khumjung - 25
      Makalu 1961
      Chamlang 1962 (Japanese)

  5)  Ang Pasang from Darjeeling - 30

  Rest of Japanese members arrive Bombay 26 July, go to Delhi. Leader to KTM 29 or 30 July. Other 4 separate into 2 parties: one to Calcutta for for equipment and thence to Tanakpur; other 2 members direct to Tanakpur to hire porters.

  Hope to enter Nepal from Pithoragarh north of Tanakpur but its in restricted zone and may have to go from Tanakpur into Nepal to Baitadi. Hope to leave from India into Nepal about 7 August.

  Scientific: archeological work around Simikot - 1000 BC (according to Tucci) - will attempt discover origins of Tilhare in Simikot-Jumla area. Scientific leader is Expedition's deputy leader.

  All members live in Kyoto.

  1st will climb mountain after that will then do scientific work. All to Jumla, where separate into 2 parties: one to Nepalgunj, one to Pokhara. All meet in Kathmandu 1st Dec.

  Establish base camp last of August. Attempt summit 2nd of Oct.

  Sponsored Sankei Newspapers of Tokyo and Osaka and all Japan and Doshisha University.

  Deputy leader only member in Himalayas before; he one of those reached Api summit in 1960.


  Letter from Kanji Kojima - Oct 29, 1963

  Deputy leader K. Hirabayashi and sirdar Pasang Phutar stood on the summit of Mt. Saipal at 12:05 on 21st of Oct 1963.

  This mountain was far above our former imagination, difficult and dangerous. We established C1 (altitude 4700m) on 3rd and C2 on 8th of Oct. It was one of the most important point how to establish C2. There were 1200m height icewall (average 45 degree) from C1 to C2. We made ice face plane with duraluminum ladders, poles and hangers after spending several days to find that place.

  We could not find the place even to squat except only one deposit place on the steep icewall between C1 and C2.

  One more important point was how to carry the loads to expected C3 over the difficult rock ridge. Even experienced Sherpas hesitated to carry the loads over that rock ridge. We persuaded and encouraged them and ourselves. Members and Sherpas made great efforts to get over the problem ridge and build up the attack camp - C4 (altitude 6450m) on 20th Oct. On the following day, 21st we got the summit by the above pair on the rope.

  Few days after ascent of the summit, all members and Sherpas gathered at base camp, making fire and singing a song of joy.

  We got drunk not only with brandy but also our success. I saw the Saipal that rose in the star light sky just same figure as I met it first.

  This memorial night became dark and dark calmly, and the expedition that thought it might be one of the most difficult one after the World War II has been over.


expid: PK2963301
peakid: PK29
year: 1963
route1: E Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hirokazu Kimura
sponsor: Japanese Himalaya Expedition of Osaka University 1963
bcdate: 1963-10-11
smtdate: 1963-10-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to route difficulties and lack of food
campsites: BC(11/10,4200m),C1(4500m),C2(20/10,5100m),C3(24/10,5700m),C4(29/10,6000m),xxx(6300m)
routememo:
  Tamura - 29 Nov 63

  Kimura and Namba left for Calcutta via Patna today.

  Hirose leaves same way on 2 Dec (Monday). Tamura Monday am sets out on trek of Solukhumbu area with one Sherpa; returns Kathmandu after about 1 month (late Dec or right after New Year's).


  Tamura - 26 Nov

  Peak 29's east side only route listed as possible - east route we took only way to conquer after comparing with west side. Recon "successful from point of view of recon."

  Expedition reached Pokhara yesterday late afternoon and caught plane to KTM. Then leader leave KTM end Nov. Tamura and Hirose stay 10 more weeks longer.

  All in good health. We want to send one big party to attack Peak 29 next autumn, the year of Olympics in Japan, but most consider finances and perhaps next year too soon to manage. Perhaps Tamura and Hirose come to guide. Need about 7-8 members to conquer this peak: double this year's 3 climbing members.

  Samagaon people friendly this time; now realize are Nepalese and must obey Nepal govt's liaison officer and police.


  Professor Shinoda - 3 Sept 63

  Osaka University 1963 expedition approved sponsored by Ministry of Education so doing scientific work also. Will study medicinal plants and study areas which is boundary of Tibetan and Indian plants.

  Peak 29 is between Himalchuli and Manaslu. Expedition goes to Trisuli Bazar by truck, north up Buri Gandaki, west to near Samagaon. Base south of Sama (as for south of Sama as possible because people there oppose invasion of god's homes on mountain tops).

  After climb will go through Larkya Pass to Thonje on Marshyangdi River and investigate Darakhola (valley found by Japanese party in 1961) which goes east from Thonje - study icefall there.

  (Leader Shinoda comes only to Kathmandu; expedition climbing leader is vice-leader) Shinoda stays Kathmandu till Saturday and to London and Japan.

  Then to Pokhara end Nov on early Dec and fly to Kathmandu from Pokhara.

  Expedition leaves KTM 15-20th Sept for climbing. Dr Tamura goes to Calcutta Friday via Patna and meet baggage and 3 other members.

  All 4 who will be climbing are in Himalayas for first time. 10th Oct base camp established if able clear Calcutta customs on schedule and if people around Sama do not force change in route.

  Peak 29 never climbed before. Japanese 1961 expedition 1st attempt. Name from Indian survey (Manaslu 28; Himalchuli 30). Local name may be Thulanagi. Expedition financed by Osaka private companies.


  Shinoda - 6 Sept 63

  Expedition's Sherpas:
    Sirdar - Ang Temba
    Cook   - Ang Dawa III (was also on Shinoda's 1961 expedition)
    High Altitude Porter - Mingma Tenji
    High Altitude Porter - Phuri Sherpa

  Liaison officer is Kishore Shumsher J B Rana (Field Marshal Rudra grandson)


  Letter from Tamura Nov 17, 1963

  We met our mailrunner at Thanje and receive your letter on the East Ridge of Peak 29. This height gained the attack from C4, settled at 6000m. We thought that we could find possible route to the summit of Peak 29. By the observation, so we discontinued our climbing; another reason that we discontinued was that all our food and equipment were spent out.

  After staying "Sama" village about few days during which we succeeded to make a good friendship with the people who had been very unfriendly for us, our homeward trip began 7th Nov along the Marshyangdi river. We arrived at Thanje 11th Nov. We stayed here 5 days for the reconnaissance of west side of Peak 29 and today 17th Nov. We are leaving Thonje for Pokhara. We expect to the Pokhara 25th Nov.

  Our mailrunner are ordered to go Kathmandu directly without dropping on Hospital and to stay Kathmandu because we will reach KTM almost same time when he arrive there.


  Letter from Namba - Oct 26

  We are keeping good condition. Also in Sama village are taken good situation. But we are feeling very sorry and broken our heart because we listened to some bad news of Italian expedition.

  We make C3 on 5700m high already. Mr Hirose is keeping the best condition in usually. Also Mr Nimura, Dr Tamura and all Sherpas. Staying in BC, Dr Namba and Mr. Rana are reporting in daily.

  In Peak 29 with avalanches some mystery is full. But under the sunlight its shape is lovely and beautiful. In midnight Orion are moving over the snow mountains of Peak 29. We are not remembered to the troubles at Buri Gandaki at all.

  We are climbing very smooth. Also weather is cleared up but sometime cloud.


expid: NEMJ63101
peakid: NEMJ
year: 1963
route1: E Ridge from SW
nation: Japan
leaders: Hisachika Zengyo
sponsor: Nippon Telegraph & Telephone Public Corporation
bcdate: 1963-04-12
smtdate: 1963-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to bad weather and shortage of rope
campsites: BC(12/04,4200m),C1(17/04,5100m),C2(01/05,5600m),C3(05/05,6200m),C4(09/05),xxx(13/05,6800m)
routememo:
  Expeditions to Himlung prior to 1992 were probably climbing Nemjung.


  From Tatsu Khumbara - 30 March 63

  All Japan Himalayan Expedition 1963

  Sponsored by Ministry of Education Japan; Nippon Tel and Telephone Public Corporation; Nishinippon Press to climb Himlung Himal 7126m in Gandaki Region of Himalaya Range in Central Nepal - main peak (7126m peak) is 25 km north of Manaslu. Will start scaling it from Binta Kothi (3810m) the innermost village on the Dudh Khola, then probably western glacier. Basecamp to be at 4200m at innermost course possible of glacier; C1(4700m), C2(5250m), C3(5700m), C4(6250m), C5 on ridge about 6700m on north left side of main peak. From C5 to top in 2 tries between May 10 and 17.

  All members are on staff of NTT except Kinichi
  1) Tsuda, who is pressman of Nishi-Nippon Press
  2) Hisachika Zengyo (leader)
  3) Eiji Koyama
  4) Masado Chuma
  5) Hiroyori Soga
  6) Tsuguteru Hashimoto
  7) Tetuzi Santa


expid: NUMB63101
peakid: NUMB
year: 1963
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Makoto Numata
sponsor: Chiba University
ascent1: 1st
countries: Switzerland
approach: Banepa->Junbesi
bcdate: 1963-05-01
smtdate: 1963-05-29
smttime: 1250
termdate: 1963-05-31
campsites:
  BC(01/05,4000m),C1(05/05,4600m),C2(10/05,4600m),C3(15/05,5200m),C4(17/05,5600m),C5(28/05,6200m),Smt(29/05)

routememo:
  Hiroshi, Japanese Numbur summiter - 24 Dec 83

  1963 Numbur

  Hitachi believes 1963 expedition was successful. Their account of a final push gives "reasonable" time and description of summit and rock just below it is entirely accurate.


  Numata (leader) - 7 June 63

  Chiba University Expedition

  4 mountain climbers reached KTM June 17th. 2nd scientific June 22nd. 1 member went to Calcutta Thursday, leader Yoda Sunday and 4 finally on 9th. Leader and Yoda will reach Japan end of July (via Bangkok for 2 weeks botanical survey in Thailand).

  Sherpa is instructor at HM Institute in Darjeeling - Mingma Tsering.

  Matsuo is photography engineer working for photography Co that makes color film. Oriental Photographic Industry Co in Tokyo on engineering staff; this 1st time in March. Plans to come again to climb Gaurishankar in 1965.

  Climbing last 2 days very difficult but all in good health. More difficult than expected. No one even attempted climb Numbur before because of very hard blue ice between C4 and C5 which have more of in Japan.

  2 botanists with expedition studied material in East Nepal especially Junbesi and Jiri - vegetation very similar to Japan. Collected many plant specimens, insects, etc. Report later after study date knew this from fewer rept but surprised at its extent very similar especially in temperate zone. 1st study ecologically and socialogically in east Nepal done by this group.


  Himalayan Expedition of the Chiba University (to Rolwaling Himal 1963) 

  "Expedition aims at bio-ecological survey on the vegetation and animals, the human-ecological survey on surroundings and life of the alpine inhabitants and if possible, climbing of mountain Numbur (6954m) which has no record of climbing."

  Proposed schedule:
  Mar 28 arrive KTM
  Apr  3 leave KTM for Beding via Charikot
  Apr 15 arrive Beding
  Apr 16-May 10 - ecolgical survey in district of Rolwaling Himal and climbing 
           Numbur
  May 11 - leave Beding for Namche Bazar via Tesi Lapcha
  May 18 - arrive Namche
  May 19 - June 13 bio-ecological and human ecological survey in district of 
           Rolwaling Himal 
  Jun 14 - leave Namche for KTM via Charikot

  Members:
  1) Makoto Numata, leader, 46, assistant professor of ecology at Chiba University
     east of Tokyo
  2) Kyoji Yoda, 30, assistant of plant ecology at Osaka City University
  3) Kazumoto Suzuki, 29, subleader
  4) Koichiro Shimoda, 27, physician
  5) Hiroshi Matsuo, 26
  6) Kozo Kohama, 26


expid: GHEN63101
peakid: GHEN
year: 1963
route1: E Face
nation: UK
leaders: Peter Taylor
ascent1: 1st
bcdate: 1963-05-23
smtdate: 1963-05-28
termdate: 1963-06-02
campsites: BC(23/05,4725m),Biv(24/05,5640m),C1(26/05),C2(27/05,6400m),Smt(28/05)
achievment: Reached summit of Ghenge Liru (not Langtang Lirung)
routememo:
  Peter Taylor - 17 May

  Leaving KTM 10:30 am tomorrow by truck to Trisuli Bazar where will sort loads, etc. Start marching day after 5 days to base camp site at 15,000 ft (4 days to Timure at 8-10,000 ft which is last village and from which turn east Langtang II and 1 day more to base camp). High camp (advance base) at 18,000 ft - 2 tents (4-man). 

  High-altitude porter Pasang Sherpa from Darjeeling, 1 cook Ang Tenji, Pasang Phutar III from Darjeeling and 2 porters who help establish high camp at 18,000 ft and return to base.

  John Graham Rogers-Homan who goes along to base and looks after first aid. He is ex-RAF pilot officer; on his way back to Australia to be married where he was living in Sydney; is 27 years old, from London.

  Another camp at 20,000 ft - 1 tent. Ascent to summit made from here.

  "Attempt at summit in 1st week of June or not at all."

  Leave Trisuli Bazar  19 May
  arrive Timure        23 May
  arrive base          24 Apr
  arrive advance base  25 May

  Arrive 20,000 ft by 1 June at least.

  Had allowed 3 weeks for acclimatization and reconnaissance. Now because of customs difficulties in Calcutta, lost 2 weeks time, so no reconnaissance possible. Will pick one route, stick to it right or wrong: will be shortest route he can find which he thinks has fair chance of success.

  Taking Nepal flag only.

  Return by same route probably. Might possibly take look at Lirung but very much doubts weather will hold off and give time for this return (via Trisuli Bazar) betweem 14th and 20th to Kathmandu.

  Liaison officer will go as far as base camp only. 
  No oxygen. 
  Sprained left ankle; had it still when arrived KTM.

  "I'll do what I can to get to the top without risking my life."

  Going up West Spur of Ghenge Liru and then turn north on saddle between low peak and main peak; in saddle will be advance base camp probably.

  Sirdar with Swiss on both 1952 expeditions and Britain 1953, 1st ascent Chamlang (over 24,000 ft) in Everest area by Japanese 1962.


  25 April 63

  Peter Taylor, 42-year-old Brit living in Australia, near Adelaide (Orange, South Australia). Geophysicist for Pasadena geophysical exploration corporation).
   
  All Nepali expedition: Taylor only European; others: Pasang Putar III of Darjeeling and other Sherpas from Khumbu area try Ghenge Liru (Langtang II) 21,590 ft and if successful Lirung peak 23,770 ft. Doesn't know their climbing history: picked them because of nearness for most.

  Finish by end of May; has climbed in Switzerland, French, Canada, USA, Argentina and New Zealand; unmarried.

  Peak successfully climbed will go north from Kathmandu to Gosainkund towards Rasuwa to approach mountains from northwest: base camp on northwest side of Langtang II. Sounds as though lucky to get up Langtang II let alone Lirung.

  Financing himself.


  6 May 63 says:

  "Langtang range has numerous peaks 20,000-23,000 ft highest being Langtang Lirung 23,760 ft which was several times unsuccessfully attempted by Swiss, German, British and Japanese teams. One of the Japanese teams lost several lives including its leaders 2 years ago attempting Langtang Lirung which is considered to be the toughest mountains in Nepalese Himalayas.


  Letter from Peter Taylor - May 1963

  Your news about the American Everest Expedition success reached us just as I was preparing to come down from C1. I hope these frostbite cases are not too bad.

  We will back in KTM about of the 7th. The return will be via Gosainkund. We are remaining here for a couple of days so that I can recuperate somewhat. I do not think there is much wrong with me, just tired out after the mad dash to Langtang II. If I do have medical attention, I'll get them to examine my head first. I made it to base under my own steam - but only just! My Sherpas have been passing around me ever since.

  This will be the mailrunner's last trip. The whole affair much harder than expected. It is raining again - the monsoon has arrived!


expid: KTEG63101
peakid: KTEG
year: 1963
route1: SE Face
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Edmund Hillary
sponsor: Himalayan Schoolhouse Expedition
ascent1: 1st
countries: India, UK, USA
bcdate: 1963-06-02
smtdate: 1963-06-05
termdate: 1963-06-06
othersmts: Attempted Tawoche (TAWO-631-01)
campsites: BC1(02/06),BC2(03/06,5180m),C1(04/06,6190m),Smt(05/06)
routememo:
  1963 Spring

  Tawache - East Face attempt
  Kangtega SE Face - no doubts at all they were on Kangtega's higher peak


  Tom Frost - 31 March 86

  Kangtega Spring 1963: Dave Dorman was only member who actually stood on summit; others including Frost were near it.


  Wyeth - 17 May

  June 24th expect return arrive Kathmandu. Walking all way back. Whole expedition except 2 Drs who staying 4 was longer on public health activities (water and clinics) and those who go up 18 May to Jiri.
    Wyeth
    Lady Hillary
    Mrs Anna Wilson, wife of James Wilson
    Mrs Dorene Del Foume, fiancee of Tom Frost?
  Expect reach expedition at Khumjung, expedition's base camp, about 24 May for openings of 2 schools last of May.
  (Charles Wylie on or about 9:00 am)
  Sears money for Hillary climbing, Field money only for schools, etc.


  Ladies: 

  Miss Dorene Del Foume, Anaheim California, friend of Tom Frost from nearby Orange California arrive Tuesday with Lady Hillary, geologist with North American Aviation Res lab.

  James Wilson from Christchurch, New Zealand - he's about to start for PhD phil of relation at Benares in July; he's 26, no permanent address in New Zealand; don't know whether will return Christchurch in 2 years.

  Himalayan School House Expedition:

  (Training Sherpas to carry on) at Khumjung, Thami, Pangboche schools at Thami and Pangboche.
  Polyethylene waterpipe 1 mile from sacred mountain Khumbila to Khumjung.
  8 climbers and 1 Doig
  200 porters - 14 high altitude Sherpas

  Climb 2 mountains: 
    Taweche 21,463 ft
    Kangtega 22,340 ft
  Just above Thyangboche Monastery, soutwest side of Ama Dablam never before attempted because considered impossible. Will try first Tawoche on which recon already made; permission for this received on Sunday.

  Hillary hopes to climb to peaks but will see how fit he feels when gets high up (still supposed to be under 16,000 ft ceiling).


expid: PUMO61401
peakid: PUMO
year: 1961
route1: SE Face-NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Werner Staeuble
countries: W Germany
smtdate: 1961-12-07
campsites: xxx(07/12,6300m?)
accidents: Leader and 1 Sherpa killed in fall
routememo:
  Gerhard Lenser - 23 Sept 72

  Pumori - South Ridge in 1962 very strong wind every day; had intended to climb this way but 150m very steep and difficult, but possible in good weather.

  1961 one Swiss and German; both Swiss had been with Dhaulagiri expeditions in 1955 and 1958. Staeuble (Swiss) and Mehl (German, but not really a climber).

  Did not have permit; went like trekkers. Had base below NE Ridge between Gorak Shep and Everest base and started climbing in Dec 1961 and took 9-11 good Sherpas including Annulu. Reached Pumori NE Ridges: Lenser thinks only Sherpas reached ridge. Tried to climb SE Face and up to about 6300m according one Sherpa cook on 7th Dec, but could find no campsite and came down in darkness. Tried to go back down to base at night - during descent one rope of Staeuble and Sherpa fell 200-300m and both killed. Mehl and Annulu in descent also; Mehl hands and feet frozen and Annulu carried Mehl on back. Searched for many hours; later found 2 dead men (Staeuble and Sherpa).


  Pumori 1961 - winter

  Gerhard Lenser - 7 Aug 79

  Gerd Mehl - German

  Werner Staeuble (Swiss) and another European (Gerd Mehl who did no climbing) did not have permission to climb Pumori, but only to Thyangboche. 9 Sherpas, sirdar = Annulu. 2-3 Sherpas reached NE Ridge which Lenser's team climbed and made a camp.

  On Dec 2 Sherpas and Mehl and Staeuble were going to C2 or C3; became dark and exhausted. Mehl had a paralyzed leg. Staeuble and his Sherpa slid down ice face and died other 2 tried to go down in dark and other Sherpas came up to help. Mehl and Sherpa became badly frostbitten. 

  In Germany Mehl told press he had climbed Pumori, then said stopped few meters below summit so as not to take virgin peak from Lenser. Could show no high photos.

  Lenser learned truth from Sherpas and from German resident of KTM.

  Very little publicity about climb because Staeuble insured only for photography to Thyangboche and insurance paid.

  Staeuble was on Dhaulagiri I in the 50's. Don't know whether he was leader (was a climber in 1955 and leader in 1958).


expid: EVER60101
peakid: EVER
year: 1960
route1: S Col
nation: India
leaders: Gyan Singh
countries: Nepal
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1960-04-05
smtdate: 1960-05-25
termdate: 1960-05-30
termnote: Abandoned at 8625m due to high winds
othersmts: Attempted Tawoche (to 5600m)
campsites:
  BC(05/04,5450m),C1(10/04,5850m),C2(15/04,6100m),C3.ABC(17/04,6460m),C4(19/04,6700m),C5(02/05,7300m),C6(09/05,7950m),C7(24/05,8400m),xxx(25/05,8625m)


expid: LHOT56101
peakid: LHOT
year: 1956
route1: W Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Albert Eggler
sponsor: Swiss Expedition to Everest and Lhotse 1956
ascent1: 1st
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1956-04-07
smtdate: 1956-05-18
smttime: 1450
termdate: 1956-05-31
othersmts: Climbed Everest (EVER-561-01) and Island Peak (IMJA-561-01)
routememo: See Swiss Everest 1956 from "Himalayan Journal" 1957 for route details as far as C6.
accidents: Sirdar Pasang Dawa Lama amoebic dysentery and liver abcess; Luchsinger appendicitis
achievment: 1st ascent of Lhotse
primid: EVER56101
campsites:
  BC(07/04,5450m),C1(11/04,5800m),C2(13/04,6100m),C3.ABC(18/04,6500m),C4(01/05,6950m),C5(06/05,7500m),C6(09/05,7925m),Smt(05/18/05)


expid: BARU54101
peakid: BARU
year: 1954
route1: SE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Edmund Hillary
sponsor: New Zealand Alpine Club Barun Valley Expedition
ascent1: 1st,2nd
countries: UK
approach: Arun->Barun Valley->Sherpani Col
bcdate: 1954-05-26
smtdate: 1954-05-29
smttime: 1630
campsites: BC(26/05),C1(27/05),C2(28/05,6700m),Smt(29/05,01/06)
othersmts:
  Climbed Pethangtse (PETH-541-01), Pethangtse East (PTHE-541-01), Chago (CHAG-541-01) and Nau Lekh (NAUL-541-01) (all 1st ascents); attempted Cho Polu (CHOP-541-01) and Makalu II (MAK2-541-01); recon Makalu (MAKA-541-02)

routememo:
  Ed Hillary - 7 March 79

  1954 dozen 20,000ers by ten climbers
  Baruntse via South Ridge for both parties
  Pethangtse via South glacier (glaciated ridge)

  Chago ? 
  Cho Polu - Hardie + ? route

  Nau Lekh - 1st ascent by Beaven + ? route ? probably from north from Nau Lekh Glacier


expid: GAN153101
peakid: GAN1
year: 1953
route1: W Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Athol Roberts
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to bad conditions and altitude sickness
othersmts: Attempted Ganesh II (GAN2-531-01) and Lampu (LAMP-531-01); climbed Chamar North (CHMN-531-01)
campsites: BC(3650m),C1(4575m),C2,C3(6100m),xxx
routememo:
  Taken from "The New Zealand Alpine Journal"

  The trip to Tumji (our main base) was to last 11 days and the first day was to Kikani. This was an easy day across miles of rich intensely cultivated valley and then climbing gradually up through lovely alternating trees and farmland. Kikani Bungalow (6000 ft above sea level) was reached at 6:30 pm and here we had our first tea cooked for by our Sherpas. Kikani by the way, is the place where the photograph was taken which first gave the place where the Buri Gandaki area for our first trip to the Himalaya. Unfortunately on this occasion a thick dust have obscured the splendid view we first saw in a book in New Zealand, but nevertheless we had sense of contented well being on this our first evening on the trek with only our Sherpas and and coolies for company. An early start next morning took us down about 3,000 feet to the valley below and then in easy trek to Trisuli Bazaar whihc brough to a close the second day. And so the days brought us closer and so the country became more gorgy and mountainous. Arughat Bazaar was a welcome sight as this village is situated on the Buri Gandaki and it was this mighty river that was to us almost to the heart of the great giants we had come so far to find.

  At the end of eleven days all our supplies were safely stored in Tibetan's house at Tumji (our main base or store place) and after paying off our 52 coolies we sorted food and equipment for 5 or 6 weeks climbing in the Ganesh Himal two coolie days above us. We hired 19 Tibetan Coolies to carry for us and on the afternoon of the second day our Base Camp was pitched at a height of 14,000 ft. The scenery held us spellbound. A large cirque of mighty peaks seemed to surround us completely and at that time seemed to be ours for the taking - or should I say for the climbing? Little did we then suspect that unforseen complications would prevent us from attaining our objective. Despite the party's determined effort, Mt Ganesh Himal a 23,400 foot giant, rallied its defense forces and repulsed us with altitude sickness and bad snow and ice conditions. Added to this, McCallum became very sick at Camp II and had to be helped down to Base, and so from this 24-thousander we were forced to retire and organise for an attempt on another peak.

  During the enforced convalescent period of McCullum, Gardner made a reconnaissance on another peak in this area, while Bishop and I made a reconnaisance up the Sarpu Valley. This valley lies to the north of the small Village of Tumji and is 20 miles long, 10 miles of it being glacier. The glacier rises in four large icefalls from a height of 10,500 feet at its snout to 18,000 ft at its head. From our base which we reached that evening. From here we had difficulty in obtaining porters to carry our loads and we had to perform this unpleasant task ourselves. However eventually at midday on our second day of hard swagging two smiling Tibetans arrived, and all was well. We carried with more heart and lighter loads, which were now well distributed and having traversed three icefall. The head of the glacier did not terminate in cirque but in several 19,000 foot rocky peaks and saddles on the Buri Gandaki Sarpu watershed. We were satisfied with the climbing possibilities here returned to the Base Camp. This reconnaissance took eight days.

  Before setting out for Sarpu again it was decided to spend about ten days attempting a peak named Lampu. On the 13th May McCallum and Gardner with four Sherpas set out to establish a camp on Lampu which is a little north of Mt. Ganesh Himal. Next day Gardner and one Sherpa commenced a reconnaissance of the peak, which eventually involved them in having to spend the night out. These two found a cave like hole at the foot of bluff about 20 feet high. The hole was full of icicles but it was welcome shelter. Following Gardner's return it was decided to press on and Camp II was established in a spot like an eagles's nest. It was thought that from Camp III we might have a chance of climbing this peak, but we were all deceived by the scale of the mountain and realised that it would be necessary to establish Camp IV. An attempt was made to do this without success. After a council of war at Camp III, where the temperature had dropped considerably, we then determined that we would make an attempt on the summit from here. We were running short of food and fuel and would soon have to return to Base. An early start was made next morning but by noon having negotiated a difficult snow ridge where the snow was the consistency of sugar. It was realized that the party could not possible hope to reach the summit in one day. There was very little food and fuel left and so we returned to Base Camp with something else attempted but still nothing done.

  On 21 May nine coolies arrived to help carry out Base Camp down to where we were made welcome at the home of Da Dodgie. The houses here are built with stone walls and bamboo matting roof usually of two storys with the farm animals being kept downstairs and the smell upstairs.

  We had arranged for a party of coolies to carry up the Sarpu Khola and these arrived on 20 May. We packed and were ready to start when we were told that the coolies would not go on that day because that night there was dancing. We were concerned at the approaching monsoon weather and every day was important but nothing would move the coolies so we accepted our temporary defeat with good grace and went to the dance also.

  At last we set off from Tumji with 18 well-laden coolies. We had enough food fro the four of us and four Sherpas for five weeks. It was not possible to get onto the glacier at its snout and we had to climb some 3000 ft before dropping down onto the white ice of the glacier on the third day. We eventually established Camp I about half way up the Glacier at 15,000 ft and coolies refused to go beyond this point. The next day we four with the help of our four Sherpas established Camp II. When this camp was well stocked the Sherpas moved ahead and established Camp III at 19,000 feet. Eventually Camp IV took shape and then CV at 22,000 ft. The Sherpas carried up this last camp and established Bishop, Sherpa Namgyal and me on a small flat part of the great summit ridge. We enjoyed little that night because of the wind and we were also feeling the effects of the altitude. Next morning we set out towards summit wearing crampons. We moved very slowly as we marvelled at the view which seemed endless, but after about 500 feet I became ill and went back towards the tent. Bishop and Namgyl went on. Two and half more hours of plugging with shorter spells of step cutting brought them to the top of a huge ice bulge, only to find that the real summit was further along and much flatter by heavily corniced ice arete. In the meantime Gardner and McCallum with Nima were moving up to Camp V in support, and if possible for their attempt on the peak the following day. Fortunately the wind had lessened in intensity and Bishop and Namgyl made steady progress to within 100 yards of the summit. Here the ice formed three or four giant waves and it took some three hours to pass them. There were several other steps in the ridge which gave trouble but Bishop was at last rewarded when on looking over a difficult step he saw an unbroken snow slope to the summit which he and Namgyl reached at 2 pm. There was a cold misty wind on top and the two climbers did not delay long. Two photographs were taken and the descent was commenced. Despite the cold Bishop could not suppress his elation at climbing his first Himalayan peak and at the knowledge that the party had attained an objective. Peak 23,513 was no longer unclimbed. It has subsequently been named Chamar.

  However it was now the turn of the rest of the party, and on the morning of the 7th June four climbers left their tents at Camp V for the second attempt on our new peak Chamar. Bishop and Namgyl bade farewell and good climbing to the two ropes made up of Gardner and the Sherpa Nima on one and McCallum and I on the other. It was not long before the effects of dysentery combined with oncoming illness made it impossible for me to continue and a return was made to Camp V. McCallum joined the other rope and the ascent continued. Shortly after the party had their first view of the summit, the steps made by Bishop the previous day were seen and it was not long before they were being put to excellent use. The three climbers no doubt mentally thanked the two men who had been there before them. A fierce wind was screaming across the slopes and this slowed up their progress. At last the summit was reached. A few sweets were eaten and the descent began. By then a thick mist had settled on the summit and flurries of snow increased in intensity. By the time they reached the steps they were completely filled. Nima, did a splendid job of finding the obliterated stops but unfortunately he had removed his goggles and when Camp V was reached he was complaining of sore eyes. At Camp V the effects of altitude were such that hot drinks were sufficient for their needs.

  Next morning Nima was snow-blind. The party set out in thick mist for CIV with the route finding problem on their hands because the snow had now wiped out all trace of tracks. Gardner and McCallum looked after Nima. Because steps had to be cut in the hard snow lying underneath the powder snow, and because Nima's feet had to be guided into these steps by McCallum it took an hour for them to descend the first hundred feet. From Camp IV the remainder of the party set off to give aid to the three who were on their way down. The former had been caught in a soft snow avalanche and had come out of it unscathed although two ice-axes were lost. The Camp IV party were some distance below and near where the avalanche must have started McCallum found one of the ice-axes. It seemed ages before the groups met. McCallum and Gardner were having a difficult time with Nima as they were both carrying heavy packs having left Nima with only a sleeping bag and air mattress to carry and having to clear away nearly a foot of powdered snow before each step could be cut. Willing hands relieved the summit party of their packs as soon as both parties met and the descent was continued down a well marked trail to Camp IV. It had taken seven hours for the 1500 foot descent between the two camps.

  Next morning, 9 June we took stock and result was not particularly encouraging. Nima was still completely snow blind. Sarki, the youngest Sherpa was blind in one eye; and I was weak from illness. To add to the difficulties, the monsoon had hit us. A start for Camp III was made in clear conditions but it was not long before the monsoon cloud had closed down about us. Progress was very slow in the soft snow avalanche. At last Camp III came into sight through the thick cloud. It was a sorry sight. The covered snow and crevasses had opened all round it. This stage of the journey from Camp IV to Camp III took six hours although it normally could have been done in one hour.

  June the 10th was our last day on the mountain. It turned out a lovely fine day and our spirits rose with the sun. Nima was now able to see out of one one and this load again and this load again and this was a great help to the rest of us. We were amazed how much the large crevasses had opened up between Camp III and CII and at times it seemed that we must be cut off from the lower part of the glacier. However we threaded our way through them and negotiated safely the frail looking snow bridges which had to be crossed to reach the lower sides of the crevasses.

  At last we reached the flat part of the glacier and it was not long before we were at C2, at an altitude of 17,000 ft. It was pleasant after our rather gruelling days at the higher camps. Our appetites returned and we were again able to really enjoy food. That night as we settled down in Camp II the party felt satisfied that the plans which had been made in Wellington months before had borne fruit. We had climbed a Himalayan Peak. We had done that which we had come to do and we could now return without misgivings or disappointment. It had been a grand and impressive experience. Space does not permit me to tell you of the exploration and our trip out hampered with rising rivers and detested leeches. However we achieved our ambition: we have climbed in the Himalaya.


  Hermann Warth - 26 March 81

  Third Pole from A. R. Roberts "Himalayan Holiday"

  Athol R. Roberts
  Maurice G. Bishop
  Graham J. McCallum
  Philip C. Gardner

  Spring 1953
  Went up Buri Gandaki went right to Shiar Khola to Tumge (Dunche) to Tola Gompa

  Tried Ganesh I via NW Ridge - at 6100m finished
  Tried Pt 23,400 ft = 7132m = Ganesh III - at 5800m slab avalanche - Gardner and Nima narrowly escaped and returned. 
  Then Lampu (21,345 = 6506m) failed
  Left Ganesh area

  Northwest of Shiar Khola Sringi Himal - brief recce: Sharpu Khola and reached Chamar (23,545 ft = 7177m) northeast side -
  C1  4600m
  C2  5200m
  C3  5800m
  C4  6250m
  C5  6700m 

  5 June Roberts, Bishop and Nyamgal Sherpa started attack - Roberts not well and returned but other 2 continued. Making step in heavily cornice ridge for 5 hours - 9 hours climb brought then to Chamar's summit highest point Shingi Himal. 7 June McCallum and Nima reached summit - strong winds, fog and snow - 7 hours descent to C4 - Nima because snowblind next day. 10 June all safely off mountain. Then recce northeast of Sringi.


  Sherpas (taken from literature):
    Babu
    Namgyl
    Nima
    Sarki


expid: DHA158101
peakid: DHA1
year: 1958
route1: N Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Werner Staeuble
sponsor: 1958 Spring Swiss Expedition
countries: Poland, W Germany
approach: Myagdi Khola
bcdate: 1958-04-10
smtdate: 1958-05-17
termdate: 1958-06-01
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to deep snow and avalanching
campsites:
  BC(10/04,4600m),C1(14/04,5200m),C2(15/04,5600m),C3(17/04,5950m),C4(01/05,6550m),C5(07/05,7000m),C6(17/05,7600m),xxx(7600m)

routememo:
  Les Alpes (Aug 58) reports the expedition high point as 7400m by Pasang Dawa Lama and Werner Staeuble, not 7700-7800m. 7600m claimed by Spanish mountain information service. 7600m high-point confirmed by Ruedi Eiseln Apr 2001.

  Sherpas (from "Himal Cu-Cu-Ra"):
    Urkien
    Annullu
    Dawa Tensing (aka Pasang Dawa Lama)
    Pemba Norbu
    Pasang Sonar
    Da Tondup
    Yla Tensing
    Nima Dorje
    Mingma Tsering
    Ang Temba


expid: KIRA39101
peakid: KIRA
year: 1939
route1: S Ridge from Nepal Pk
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Ernst Grob
ascent1: 1st
countries: Germany
approach: Sikkim->Zemu Glacier
bcdate: 1939-05-07
smtdate: 1939-05-29
campsites: BC(07/05),C2(6000m),C3(24/05,6350m),C4(25/05,6600m),C5(26/05,7000m),Biv(28/05,7000m+),Smt(29/05)
primid: NEPA39101
othersmts:
  Climbed Nepal Peak (NEPA-391-01) and Langpo South (LNPS-392-01); attempted Gimmigela Chuli (GIMM-392-01) and Pyramid Peak (PYRM-392-01)


expid: PYRM36101
peakid: PYRM
year: 1936
route1: NE Ridge from Sikkim
nation: UK
leaders: J. K. Cooke
approach: Zemu Glacier
bcdate: 1936-05-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6837m (Smt of Sphinx Peak)
othersmts: Ascents of Sphinx (SPHN-361-01) and Fluted Peak in Sikkim
campsites: BC(28/05,4875m),C1(5485m),C2(6035m),C3,C4,xxx(6837m)
routememo:
  Taken from Himalayan Journal, 1937 (Climbing in Lhonak, by J. B. Harrison)

     The name of Pyramid a 23,400 foot peak lying some eight miles north of Kangchenjunga was mot frequently on our tongues. We had no information as to its practicability or otherwise but it gave us an immediate aim. On the 28th, after a most enjoyable three days march, starting among the the tangled rhododendron forest of the Zemu valley, through brown desolate hills, just at the junction of the Langpo Chu from the south-west, and which have their sources in the glaciers of the basin formed by the Langpo, Pyramid and Tent peaks
     It was a good site at a height of 16,000 ft on the upper juniper level. So far we had seen nothing of Pyramid, but our camp was in sight of a grand little mountain, which we identified as the Fluted peak height 19,877 feet, and which we determined to attempt some time.
     The weather had been unsettled for some days so we decided to waste no time, but paid off our Lachen men at once and the next day started off up the tongue of land which separates the Langpo and Podon streams, with our five Sherpas carrying kit and food for ten days.
     A work here about the Lachen men may not be out of place. Their village is strategically situated near the entrance to the Zemu valley which leads to Kangchenjunga and with the increasing popularity of northern Sikkim as a climbing and travelling centre they have grasped their opportunity with both hands. They drive a hard bargain and demand double the pay with which men lower down the valley are satisfied. On the march, once off the main track, they continually try to shorten each day's march and so lengthen the time for the total march by declaring, about midday, that beyond that particular spot there would be no more fuel or water or by making some such excuse. The more they get the more they ask. We found the best way to deal with them was to offer them a lump sum for the whole trip based on our own calculations of distance and ground. Once they found that they could not impose on us they carried extraordinarily well.
     To revert to the story. We established Camp I at about 18,000 ft on the southern lateral moraine of the East Langpo glacier. This camp was just across a little valley from Fluted peak, and in addition, we could at last see something of the ridge by which we hoped to climb Pyramid. This ridge, which leads north-eastwards from Pyramid, appeared to presenet no difficulty if only we could get on to it. The route from the basin to the col between Pyramid and Langpo was still hidden. The actual summit of Pyramid was also hidden, but we could see a false crest on the ridge and we hoped that from it to the real summit the angle of the ridge would ease off. our chief anxiety now was to see the wall from the basin to the col. The next morning, while having breakfast at about 5 o'clock, we heard of all the unexpected sounds, a Swiss yodel, and soon afterwards we were joined by Spencer Chapman, who had also been with the Pallis expedition and who, since we had seen him last, nine days previously had been to Gangtok and then come back to join us. That day we climbed up in the southern trough of the glacier and camped on the edge of the basin at 19,800 feet, just above the tip of the tongue previously mentioned, which divides the basin of the glacier into two, the East Langpo on the north and the beautifully serac-ed Chanson on the south. The glacier in the basin requires care. Apparently gently sloping and smooth, it is criss-crossed by enormously deep crevasses with narrow mouths, which were covered with a few inches of snow. Unfortunately the weather had changed and we pitched Camp 2 in a thick mist, which prevented the sight we wanted of the basin wall. From here we sent back the three unequipped porters, keeping the other two with us. The next day the weather was even worse and forced us to stay in Camp 2.
     The following morning was hardly any better, but we decided to push on. We had had by this time intermittent views of the wall, enough to enable us to decide on the route. The wall consisted of a number of small rock ribs with snow gullies in between.
     Below the lowest point of the col was a hanging glacier, and to the left of this glacier, and to the left of this glacier and about two thirds of the way up the wall was a huge, roughly triangular slab of yellowish rock. We aimed at one of the ribs, intending to push up it, then up the gully between the slab and the glacier; this looked unpleasant, but appeared to be the only way. From this gully we hoped to find a way on to the less steeply sloping top bulge of the hanging ice. Once there, the final 200 feet to the col appeared easy.
     Alas for our hopes! The route chosen was all right, but we could not get started. We spent two hours trying to get off the glacier on to the rock rib. By midday two of us, after some rather ticklish climbing on loose, sloping rock, were 100 ft above the snow of the basin. The others at the bottom of the rib had to keep dodging little snow and rock shoots which were coming down the gully fairly frequently. Further to complicate matters, the weather had worsened; the clouds had come down very low and it was snowing heavily. Next, when the porters realized that they were expected to up they refused, nicely but firmly. At first we thought of taking one of our two tents and some food and of pushing on ourselves: we even started hauling up a few loads. It was rather stupid, and after ruining a rucksack and a kit bag on sharp rocks we gave it up and, leaving the tents at camp 2, we returned to the base camp, hoping to give the weather a chance of clearing.
     Two days later we started up again, and this time moved Camp 2 as close under the wall as we could get with safety, at a height of about 20,000 feet. The next day, with only one porter, Ang Nima, an old Everest man, and carrying fairly heavy loads ourselves, we tackled the wall again on another of the rock ribs, an this time succeeded in getting up, although not without difficulty.
     The rock was not pleasant, at a steep angle and with loose sloping holds filled with snow and rubble, and progress was slow. The gully between the yellow rock and the ice was very steep, but not dangerous, and we were lucky enough to find a way through the broken ice. At about 4:30 pm, after climbing only 800 ft, we camped some 150 ft below the col. It had snowed lightly all day, but the evening was promising. The next morning dawned bright and clear but with odd swirling gust of wind, while from the col over heads and from the summit of the two Langpo peaks streamers of snow were being blown. We packed camp - a simple matter as we had only tent for the four of us - and half an hour later Chapman, who was leading, stuck his head over the col and was nearly blown out of his steps by the screaming northwest wind blowing straight from Everest, which we could see, enormous and, for some reason, yellowish in colour, some 50 miles away. The wind was positively numbing even at this altitude, and it was with very sympathetic interest that we gazed at Everest and tried to imagine what the high climbers there were experiencing thousands of feet higher on their ridge.
     As soon as we looked about us it became obvious that we had struck the col at the wrong place. To our right the route to Langpo looked comparatively easy, though steep and possibly liable to avalanche, but to our left and between us and the broader Pyramid ridge lay a curving knife-edge of snow dropping very steeply on either side. We might have risked the wind on an easy slope or the ridge on a calm day, but the wind and the difficult ridge together were too much for us. We therefore dropped back into shelter below the col, repitched the tent, and left Ang Nima there while the three of us set off to try and find another route, which would lead us on to the ridge to the west of the knife-edge. This we did by getting back into the gully and continuing up it, then bearing slightly left up a steep snow slope and through a small cornice to the crest. The next day, using the tracks we had already made, we got Ang Nima and the tent up on to the ridge.
     There was still a strong wind blowing, but the route was now easy and we could all move together - a relief after the slow one at a time movement to the ridge. About midday we came to a rather exciting-looking place where a crevasse split the ridge at an angle. This crevasse was backed by a sharp ridge of snwo with a steep drop to the West Langpo glacier on the far side. Actually the place presented very little difficulty, and we turned the crevasse on the right and the three of us were strung out astride the ridge when Ang Nima jibbed and we rather weakly gave in and decided to camp there. 
     We should have hauled him and his load over the ridge separately. Our excuse is that we still thought that the angle of the ridge from the false summit we could see to the real summit would ease off, and as we were now at about 21,400 ft this would leave us about 2000 ft to do the next day in a distance of about 1 and 1/2 miles. That was our idea when we camped but towards evening have studied the ground more carefully we became more pessimistic and my diary for the day ended up ... the ridge to the summit of the "the Sphinx" [The Sphinx partly because of its proximity to the Pyramid and partly because it kept hidden the riddle of the final slope] will necessitate roped climbing and there are possible difficulties on it, we are on short rations, and above all we have not been able to examine the route from Sphinx to pyramid. From this camp we can see the last slopes of the latter and there looks as if there may be a distinct drop between the two. The next day three of us started early with no loads and left Ang Nima in camp. The snow varied considerably generally speaking there was wind-slab on the northern slope of the ridge, soft powder on the broader stretches of the ridge itself, and good binding snow on the southern slope. This was fortunate as the route up the final 500 feet to the summit of Sphinx, which we reckoned to be 22,300 ft, led up very steep snow on the southern slope, and had the snow not been in such good conditions the slope would have been too dangerous to tackle.
     We hurried over the top, anxious to see what lay beyond, only to find our worst fears realized. Below us the ridge dropped to another knife-edge col some 500 ft down and then rose again to Pyramid in a series of snow and ice slopes and bulges which looked as if they would offer considerable climbing difficulties. The final 100 ft of this ridge appear to be of very steep ice. We actually dropped down some 300 ft towards the col before the futility of further advance became obvious and we turned back.
     We reached Camp 4 about 2 pm, packed it up, and went right back to base camp that night. An attempt on Pyramid along the ridge we chose is greatly complicated by the difficulty of getting laden porters up the wall to the Langpo-Sphinx ridge, yet the length of the route from this col to Pyramid and the probable climbing difficulties on the final slope makes at least two well provisioned camps above the cool essential.
     After a few days botanizing under the enthusiastic directions of Chapman we started for Fluted peak with two porters. We went up the Langpo Chu and camped at about 17,800 ft at the foot of the southern branch of the east ridge of the peak. The next morning at dawn 5 am the three of us started out and had an immediate thrill when we discovered snow-leopard tracks round our tent. This was a most enjoyable climb along a serrated ridge with interesting rock alternating with sharp snow ridges. All went well till noon, when we wasted an hour and a half on one pieces of rock. As we got higher the climbing became more difficult, the snow ridges, connecting the summits of the little rock ribs (which presumably give the peak its name) becoming very sharp and steep. In fact they were so sharp that the only way Cooke, who was leading could deal with them was by straddling them and knocking off the top two feet.
     We had set our time limit at 3 pm and at that time were still 200 ft from the summit. That 200 ft contained a curling knife-edge, blocked at the far end by a 12 foot lump of ice, and then a sharp steep snow ridge to the summit. Here I lifted up my voice and loudly demanded that we should turn back. However, I was in the middle of the rope, and as the others wanted to go on I had to go too, and in the end I was grateful to them, for half an hour later we were at the top. Unfortunately throughtout the day we had been unable to get any view at all owing to low mist and snow. We spent something under a minute at the top, then turned and raced back down the ridge and arrived back in camp in pitch darkness just before 7 pm.
     I have not been able to discover any record of previous attempts on Pyramid and all I have found about Fluted Peak is that in 1932 GH Osmaston, FC Osmaton, AB Stobart and J Latimer made an attempt also along the east ridge, which failed 200 ft other attempts must have heen made on it. Kellas for example did a great deal of climbing in this district and could hardly have resisted its appeal.
     The weather by this time had definitely broken so we did not more climbing but contented ourselves with an interesting little trip leaving the main Lhonak valley at the grazing flat marked Dzanak, crossing a little pass of 17,800 ft, which has the local name of Shayok La, immediately south of the West Korayedo peak, and returning to the Lhonak valley at the yak-herd's but at Langpo. We then made our way up the Chaka Chu past Chabru Lake, over the Lungnak La, and so to Thangu and Lachen. Chapman was in a hurry to get back, so left Lachen. Chapman was in a hurry to get back, so left Lachen one morning at 2:30 am and arrived the same evening at 8 pm at Gangtok a total drop of 7,000 ft a climb of over 4,000 ft and a total distance of 49 miles all done in a pair of thin gymnasium shoes with flapping rubber soles.


expid: KANG29101
peakid: KANG
year: 1929
route1: SW Face
nation: USA
leaders: Edgar Francis Farmer
bcdate: 1929-05-21
smtdate: 1929-05-27
campsites: BC(21/05),C1(23/05),C2(24/05),C3(25/05),xxx(27/05,6000m?)
routememo:
  From Himalayan Journal, 1930

  The Tragedy of Kangchenjunga, 1929

     Edgar Francis Farmer, of the Standard Oil Company of New York, lost his life on or about 27th May, 1929 in a plucky but misguided attempt to reach the summit of Kangchenjunga, alone.

     Though Farmer had no experience of climbing elsewhere than in the Rockies, his books and notes show that he had studied his subject thoroughly. He did not divulge his intention to officials or others in Darjeeling, competent to advise or dissuade him, but having obtained the Sikkim frontier pass, after signing the usual undertaking that he would not enter Tibet or Nepal, he started on 6th May, ostensibly to explore the Guicha La region. His ambitious resolve was only disclosed on the return of his porters without him and on examination of his papers after his death. His sole companions were Sherpa and Bhutia porters -- all reliable men -- whose story is as follows.

     Having visited the Guicha La, Farmer turned west, and after crossing the Kang La into Nepal, he carefully avoided Tseram and ascended the Yalung glacier to a point immediately below the southwest cliffs of Kangchenjunga. His camp-site here is identical with that of Raeburn and Crawford in 1920, and his party found graves which can only have been those of the victims of the disaster to Guillarmod's expedition of 1905.

     On 26th May, with three ex-Everest porters, he started up an icefall below the Talung saddle, the southwest cliffs of Kangchenjunga being on his left. Though Farmer himself was extra warmly clad and well equipped with crampons, his men were indifferently shod and had no crampons. The sun grew powerful, and when his Sirdar pointed out the danger of proceeding thus equipped, he promised to turn back by noon. The going became worse, and porter slipped and was unable to proceed. At this juncture, Farmer ordered the remainder to halt while he continued a little higher in order to take photographs, after promising to return shortly. All efforts to dissuade him failed; he went on and on into the mist, the porters waving to him to descend, at intervals when the mist cleared. He was still climbing at five o'clock, after which the mist seems to have obscured him. The porters remained on the look out till dusk, when they descended to camp and prepared food food for him. From here they signalled at intervals with electric torch and Meta fuel. On the following morning they climbed to spot whence his route could be clearly seen, and as the sun topped the Talung ridge they caught a glimpse of him far above them on a steep snow slope; but he soon disappeared -- to be seen no more. Vision plays strange tricks under such circumstances, and it is of course possible that the porters were mistaken. But they assert it positively, and describe him as moving wildly with arms outstretched. This gives rise to the theory that he had been smitten with snow-blindness. Their vigil continued throughout the whole day and until nine o'clock on the morning of the 28th, when intense hunger forced them down. Reaching Tseram on the 30th they exchanged a chuba, or Tibetan coat, for some Indian corn, and sent their strongest man straight to Darjeeling, where he arrived on 6th June with news of the tragedy.

     The men's narratives were taken down separately and checked by knowledge of the locality, by dates and by distances. Those who investigated the evidence are convinced that the whole truth was told and that the conduct of the porters was unexceptionable. Farmer had previously, near the Guicha La, created alarm by disappearing alone for several hours. He had the ideal build for a climber and possessed courage and determination, but without the obsession of his ambition affected his judgement and brought about his tragic end. The greatest sympathy is felt with his mother, whose only son he was.


  Taken from American Alpine Journal Vol 1, No.2, 1930

  The Fatality On Kangchenjunga - W.S Ladd

     When Mr Farmer arrived in India, he proceeded to Darjeeling and there met Mr. G.H. Johnson a climber of experience in the Himalayas. He and others helped Farmer to secure excellent porters - several of them being well known men of experience and veterans of Mt. Everest Expeditions.
     The story of what befell Mr. Farmer is best told by the testimony of the porters before the Indian Police, which follows:
     "Statement of Lobsang, son of Dawa Tibetan of Patual-Sho, Lhasa; age 33, of Bhuti Bosti. Mr. Wood-Johnson, Assistant Manager of Geille TE went to Giuchela last year in October and I went with him as his headman, There were 20 coolies. General Bruce of the Mount Everest Expedition on two occassions and it was for this reason. Mr. Wood-Johnson took me with him. He had a successful trip. In April on a Wednesday I went to Geille TE on the call of Mr. Wood-Johnson who told me that Mr. Farmer was going to Jongri for one month and six days: 9 days each way to Jongri and back and he would halt 18 days at Jongri and take photos. He would be going up Kang La. On my question I told that Mr. Farmer was not going to do mountain climbing and being such a light job, he arranged to give 1-4 -) per day for me, and to Sonam Topgay and Nima Tenduk and seven other coolies, anna 12 per day. He also promised that rations would be provided from Yok-Sun onwards.
     "On 6th May, 1929 we started from Jongri at 7 am taking with us five days rations for six of us, leaving our reserve ration at Jongri with a yak herd. We halted at Aluk-thang. On 7th May, 1929 we arrived at Chematang at 4 pm. Mr Farmer alone climbed Guichela. he told us to stay at Camp. At nightfall I sent Nima Tenduk with a lantern and Mr. Farmer returned at about 7:30 pm. 
     "On 8th May, 1929 at 6 am, Nima Tenduk, Sonam Topgay and myself accompanied Mr Farmer. We went about half way to Guichela when he said he had been on  the top of Guichela the previous evening, and turned towards Kanchen Junga. We walked in that direction up to 11 Am. When we reached the Lap-tse (cairn) heavy cloud intervened and we could not see the Kanchenjunga. We halted there for one hour but it did not clear  so we returned to Chematang and halted the night there. On 9th May, 1929 at 6 am we got ready to start, when he suddenly said that he must go towards Kanchen Junga, the same direction where we went the previous afternoon, and would return in half an hour. We waited there and he returned at 10 AM and came to Jongri at 5:30 pm.
     "On 10th May, 1929, on my suggestion, Mr Farmer sent Nima Tenduk and Dam-du to purchase flour, vegetables, eggs etc. at Yok-Sum and Pemingchi. Mr Farmer, myself Sonam Topgay and Sonam Chompe halted at Jongri. On 11th May, 1929, Mr. Farmer told me to take 5 days rations and four of us left for Kang La where he said he wanted to see the road. We halted that night at Tre Kyaplak cave near Chu-rang Chu. On 12th May 1929, we went further towards Kang La and halted at Chokar-Pang. On 13th May, 1929 at 6 AM , Mr Farmer, myself and Sonam Topgay went towards Kang La. We crossed Kang La and went about one fourth mile. There was heavy snow on the Pass. 
     "On 14th May, 1929 we came to Jongri where we halted on 15th may 1929. That day Mr. Farmer went alone towards Ke-pur mountains. I objected to his going alone but he refused to take any one of us. That night Nima Tenduk and Dam-du returned from Pemiongchi with one mound flour, potatoes eggs beans onions and a seer of butter. On 16th May, 1929 morning Mr. Farmer instructed me to take 14 days rations and we started for Kang La at 10 am. We halted that night at Tre-Kyamla. On 17th May, 1929, at Chu-kar pany. On 18th May 1929 we halted near Tse-ram on a grassy place. It was a bad and cloudy day. On 20th May, 1929 we came to a village. I thought we were in Nepal and asked Mr. Farmer whether he got a pass to enter Nepal. He replied "I know" "I know ". We then returned back and about one fourth mile and turned towards Kanchen junga and halted on a hill.
     "On 21st May, 1929 we went down into a valley and here we made our Base camp. There were small or dwarf rhododendron trees available for fire wood. On 22nd May, 1929 Mr Farmer, myself, Sonam Topgay and Nima Tenduk went up for about one mile and on account of snowfall we returned to base camps. On 23rd May, 1929 Mr Farmer ordered me to take 4 days rations and about 10 AM we started Mr Farmer, myself, Nima Tenduk and Sonam Topgay. We halted at the glacier till 2 PM then we crossed the stream on the left and halted there for the night. We were on the lowest portion of the glacier. Mr Farmer called this No. 1 camp.
     "On 24th May, 1929 we were actually on glacier. We saw avalanche falling near our camp. We left at about 7 AM and came to our camp at 5 PM and halted there. Mr Farmer called this as No. 2 Camp. On 25th May 1929 he started at about 7 AM and reached at the foot of Kanchen Junga mountain at about 4:30 PM. We made our camp on glacier. It was a difficult place and we the camping place. We halted there. It was a cold night. In a few minutes our hot tea got frozen. We walked very slowly from Camp No. I to this camp which Mr Farmer called Camp No. 3. That night he told us to prepare to leave the camp at 6 AM the next morning.
     "On 26th May, 1929 at 6 AM we all started. Mr Farmer took coffee some dry biscuits and ham. He kept no food of any kind in his pockets. He took a small camera, a pair of field glasses, ice axe and 2 films. He wore 3 shirts, 2 coats, 3 pairs of drawers, 3 pairs of socks. The nails of his boots having worn out he used a pair of crampons. He took no rope. We walked up together on the mountains but very slowly as we were getting difficulty in breathing. It was 9 AM then. I suggested to Mr. Farmer that as the sun was up and the snow melting, we may get trouble if we go up further and suggested and suggested him to return to our camp. Mr Farmer insisted that we must climb the mountain up to 12 noon. We went on. Then we came to a difficult place on snow and ice, sometime down and sometime up. It was like an ice corridor. Then came to a rock and when climbing I slipped and fell down about 6 or 7 feet and injured my back. Mr. Farmer told us to wait here for him. He would return at 12 noon after taking some photographs. He gave his Cine Camera to Sonam Topgay to let the spring go when he climbs us. As he started climbing up the mountain Sonam Topgay tried to operate. We saw him going up to 5 PM. As he walked he looked at us several times; and we called him back but he paid no heed. At 5 PM he sat down on the snow. Just then heavy cloud set in and intervened. We waited on the spot till 6 PM. We thought that he would would be returning and we returned to camp No. 3 and cooked food and waited for him. He did not return. We used his torch light just to show him the camp. On 27th May, 1929, at about 7 AM, we got on the top of an ice hillock and we saw all the way that Mr. Farmer went up. We saw Mr. Farmer climbing up on the steep snow. This time he was long way up. It was small figure. He was climbing up. The peak of Kangchenjunga was on his left hand side.* He got on the top of a mountain and we never saw him again. Heavy cloud intervened. There were other mountains behind the ridge that he crossed. We waited for the Sahib at No. 3 camp. He did not return. We had no food-all exhausted. There were some dry biscuits of the Sahib which we eat. About 300 ft from our camp we found an old camp for 2 tents. (Probably the camp of Raeburn and Crawford who are known to have gone up to Yalung in September, 1920). We thought some Sahibs came here before. There were towo empty tins of kerosene oil and also a broken clay pot. There were two heaps of stones (Cairns) which we thought were graves.
     "On 29th May, 1929, we waited for the Sahib. As he did not return we left the camp at about 9 AM and came to No. 2 camp where we left some food on the up journey. We reached there at about 5 PM. For want of food we nearly lost our lives. I thought as the Sahibs did not return for 3 days, he must have met his death.
     "On 30th May, 1929 Sonam Chompe went to "Gote" cowherd and there he exchanged his "Chupa" Tibetan coat for one pathi "Indian". With this food we came to the hill near Tseram and halted there."
     "On 31st May, 1929, we camped near Kang La. 1st June we came to Chu-Kar-pang and I sent Sonam Topgay to Jongri and told him to proceed at once to Mr. Wood-Johnson and hand over the Cine Camera so that he may be able to develop the films to show the places visited by us and give information about the Sahibs.
     "When we reached camp No. 3 Mr Farmer had for his food three bundles of pea soup and half a paper box of biscuits, about 2 spoonful of sugar. We took them as we had no food to eat.


expid: GLAC98101
peakid: GLAC
year: 1998
route1: SW side
nation: Austria
leaders: Rudi Mayr
sponsor: Austrian Glacier Dome Expedition
bcdate: 1998-04-26
smtdate: 1998-05-05
termdate: 1998-05-08
termnote: Abandoned at 6150m due to dangerous seracs and crevasses
campsites: BC(26/04,4400m),C1(29/04,5000m),C2(04/05,5600m),xxx(05/05,6150m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  BC east of Tent Peak, north of Machhapuchare in BC
  C1 below small rock ridge southeast of summit
  C2 at start of plateau south of summit
  High point at couloir north of Fluted Peak.

  More than 1-1/2 meters of wet snow at BC when arrived and had to shove it aside; couldn't find secure place for C3 because warm weather meant only 8:10 cm frozen surface of snow that in mornings melted; afternons and nights many seracs falling  (at night never colder than -5 degrees C which is much too warm). At 6150m great crevasse crossing mountain and this plus many seracs meant not safe to climb more.


expid: ANN198101
peakid: ANN1
year: 1998
route1: S Face (Bonington rte)
nation: Italy
leaders: Mario Panzeri
sponsor: Annapurna South Face 1998
countries: France
bcdate: 1998-04-13
smtdate: 1998-04-25
termdate: 1998-05-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to fatal avalanche and loss of gear
campsites: BC(13/04,4200m),ABC(18/04,4860m),xxx(25/04,6100m)
accidents: Only fatal avalanche which injured 3 Sherpas
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  BC at center of glacier between Tent Peak and South Ridge at end of glacier just below icefall. High point at South Face site for C1.

  From ABC followed Bonington route in principle, but zigzagged to avoid the many small couloirs funneling many small avalanches. Just before arriving at C1 (planned to be at 6130m), a 4-meter wide avalanche, very heavy snow, hit 4 Sherpas directly. Pirovano and Salvatore Panzeri were climbing first on fixed rope with 4 Sherpas behind where avalanche struck and rope was broken as an explosion and they fell out of control. Ang Tshering and Ang Gyalzen took avalanche directly; other 2 Sherpas fell when rope broke. Ang Tshering's body could not be found; may be buried by snow in big crevasse. C1 never made after fatal avalanche and loss of loads. Sherpas reached 6050m. Weather was hot and climbed at night mostly. On the fatal day they had started climbing at midnight, but took 10 hours to get to C1 site as safely as possible; other 2 Sherpas hit by avalanche, but survived, were Tshuldin Tsheri and Mingma Sherpa.


expid: DHA198101
peakid: DHA1
year: 1998
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Greece
leaders: Antonios Sykaris
sponsor: Greek Climbers Association Expedition Dhaulagiri
approach: Kali Gandaki
bcdate: 1998-04-07
smtdate: 1998-05-01
termdate: 1998-05-02
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to fatal accident
campsites: BC(07/04,4700m),C1(13/04,5800m),C2(14/04,6600m),C3(30/04,7300m),xxx(01/05,7500m)
accidents: Papandreou fatal fall
agency: Nepal Trek House
routememo:
  BC at normal sie - was first team to arrive
  C1 at NE Col
  C2 on NE Ridge
  C3 on NE Ridge
  High point at just over on North Face.

  Took two weeks to put all loads to BC because 68 of 78 porters dropped back at Yakaska despite to $2000 spent on equipment for them (which sirdar said was lost under snow). Also had problem with sirdar who was also cook. At end of April made push for summit and from C3 tried for top without any C4 from a low C3 in a good place (Mauduit made camp same place). 29 April 3 members made C3: Nikos, Dimitrios and Babis. 1 May got up 1:00 am and 2:00 am started for top via fixed rope already placed by Juanito's member and Sherpas and Greek Sherpa. At about 7500m route traversed North Face and rope was buried by new snow, saw old rope 10m to left and traversed to it. Dimitrios and Babis did so without problem but Nikos fell some how, reason not known: Dimitrios looked down and saw Nikos rolling and bleeding on rocks and fell down North Face and disappeared - guess he fell 1500m, but this is guess. Dimitrios and Babis stopped  ascent and tried to find Nikos but after 1 hour's search gave up and all down to BC same day.


expid: GAUR98101
peakid: GAUR
year: 1998
route1: N side
nation: Japan
leaders: Naoe Sakashita
sponsor: Sangaku Doshikai Tibet Exp to Gaurishankar (and Melungtse)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Road in Tibet beyond Cho Oyu BC impassible and had already waited 2 weeks for road to open following avalanching above Zangmu, so abandoned climbing plans.


expid: SAIE98101
peakid: SAIE
year: 1998
nation: Austria
leaders: Bruno Baumann
sponsor: Austrian Saipal East Expedition
countries: Germany
approach: Helicopter->Kerni on Humla Karnali->Sato Chola & thence BC
bcdate: 1998-04-17
termdate: 1998-04-22
campsites: BC(17/04,4070m),ABC(18/04,5400m)
achievment: 1st attempt to find Saipal East
agency: Inner Nepal
routememo:
  BC  at bottom of SE Face
  ABC at side of a mountain east of SE Face.

  Odenwald turned back on 12 April at Seti Khola junction of Humla Karnali because of avalanche danger on passes and returned to Simikot and KTM on 16 April, while Baumann on 12th to Sato Chola. 13th and 14th waited for his Sherpas to join him from valley southeast of Saipal at Chola but they had gone to Khagalgaon enroute to Simikot and joined him at Chola 14th evening. 15th from Chola to foot of SE Face of Saipal on 16th and 17th moved into closer to face and found 3000m high vertical avalanching SE Face. Also found there is no East Saipal Peak. Climbed nearby mountain to 5400m to search for an East Summit and to see SE Face, which was much too difficult for Baumann to climb even without avalanche danger. Stayed till 22 April on side of mountain for observation of wildlife. Then back to Simikot which reached on 24th. Arrived in Ktm 26th April with swollen ankle from hard trek to Simikot. Baumann will come to west side of Saipal this autumn to climb it (may use Intrek as agent). Found droppings and hair of creature that might be a primate (yeti?).


expid: LANG98101
peakid: LANG
year: 1998
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kazuhiko Ogawa
sponsor: Kozankai Langtang Lirung Expedition 1998
approach: Langtang village east->Shingdum and NE on ridge
bcdate: 1998-03-20
smtdate: 1998-04-18
termdate: 1998-04-22
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to unstable snow (avalanche danger) and lack of time
campsites: BC(20/03,4100m),ABC(23/03,4800m),C1(28/03,5500m),C2(13/04,6100m),xxx(18/04,6400m)
agency: Mt. Fuji Trekking
routememo:
  BC  on left side of Ledrub Lirung Glacier
  ABC on East Face
  C1  on SE Ridge
  C2  on SE Ridge
  High point at SE Ridge.

  Avalanche 22 March came down West Face when 4 Sherpas carrying loads up West Face but not hurt. Everyday small avalanches down 70-degree gully above ABC so climbed early morning or late evening up gully since no other route. Took too long time to make C2 because much snow on ridge and more snow falling. Unable to reach site for C3 at 6500m and because too much snow and snow on mountain unstable with ice below too thin to hold pitons. Every afternoon fresh snowfall.


expid: ANN198102
peakid: ANN1
year: 1998
route1: N Face (E of Dutch Rib)
nation: S Korea
leaders: Go In-Gyung
sponsor: 1998 Korean Annapurna I Expedition
ascent1: 35th
bcdate: 1998-04-13
smtdate: 1998-05-03
smttime: 1316
termdate: 1998-05-05
campsites: BC(13/04,4300m),ABC(15/04,5100m),C1(18/04,5700m),C2(22/04,6800m),C3(02/05,7500m),Smt(03/05)
accidents: Um's right leg broken
achievment: 1st person to scale Annapurna twice
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Face
  C2 east of Dutch Rib
  C3 above area of many crevasses.

  25th April at 7750m big accident with Um, but he saved lives by holding fixed rope and sacrificed own summit chance. 3 days to get Um down to ABC for his helicopter evacuation. 

  30 April now from BC to try another summit bid. C3 left 3 May 4:15 am by Han, 1 Sherpa and 3 Tamangs and reached top 1:16 pm by Han and Dawa Tamang: others on top 1:45 to 2:00 pm. Slept in C3 that night, arriving there about 5:30-6:00 pm. 4 May 6:00 pm back in BC. Chose eastern route that is long but safest: Dutch Rib was blue ice and French and Spanish routes hit by many avalanches, but weather generally was good.

  25 April Um and 4 Sherpas and Han going to make C3 at 7800m when 50m below site 2 Sherpas fell: sirdar attached to fixed rope and looking for way to cross crevasse said impossible and came down from crevasse and took 2 steps back and slipped, pulled 2nd Sherpa down and Um's leg entwined in rope: Sherpas down 20m and okay but Um's right leg injured and he fell down 10-15m; his leg and ankle fractured (2 breaks). Han Ok - all night 3:40-11:30 pm Um was brought to reach C2: helicopter on 27th brought Um from 4500m plateau and brought to KTM and cared for at B & B Hospital. Were on route east of Dutch and French routes; more difficult technically but safer: Dutch route had dangerous seracs area and French route many snow and ice avalanches. Expedition now in BC but will make another bid for summit.


expid: CHOY98109
peakid: CHOY
year: 1998
route1: NW side
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Hans Rauner
sponsor: Swiss-Austrian Tibet Expedition
countries: Austria
bcdate: 1998-04-26
smtdate: 1998-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to cold wind and lack of time for another attempt
campsites: BC(26/04),ABC(30/04,5700m),C1(04/05,6400m),C2(13/05,7100),xxx(14/05,8100m)
accidents: Raith slight frostbite
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Belinger, Geier, Raith and Rauner tried for top from C3 at midnight of 13/14 May and returned back at 7500m because strong wind and very cold. Climb finished because no time. 

  14th Raith went alone on up to 8100m and then turned back because feet and toes starting to freeze.


expid: DHA198105
peakid: DHA1
year: 1998
route1: NE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Guy Cotter
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Dhaulagiri Expedition 1998
countries: Finland, USA
bcdate: 1998-04-19
smtdate: 1998-05-16
termdate: 1998-05-17
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to dangerous snow slabs
campsites: BC(19/04,4650m),C1(24/04,5700m),C2(26/04,6500m),C3(13/05,7250m),xxx(16/05,7500m)
accidents: Cotter stomach trouble
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  C1 at NE Col
  High point at 7500m at start of traverse on rocks from ridge to North Face.

  C3 occupied on 13th because all its gear had been accidently dispersed by other climbers in descent. Viesturs and Gustafsson occupied C3 on 13th and made summit bid on 16th after bad weather. Got to 7500m from ridge onto traverse to face via ledge; too dangerous snow slabs to continue. Now end of climb in perfect weather.


expid: CHOY98101
peakid: CHOY
year: 1998
route1: NW side from N
nation: Russia
leaders: Alexei Choustrov
sponsor: St. Petersburg Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 280
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1998-04-07
smtdate: 1998-04-28
smttime: 1300
termdate: 1998-05-04
accidents: Nothing except Stepanov's death (Roukhlov decided mountain not for him)
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(07/04),ABC(09/04,5700m),C1(11/04,6450m),C2(14/04,7000m),C3(19/04,7400m),C4(27/04,7600m),Smt(28/04)

routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C4 at Chinese tent.

  Had helped Chinese team during climb (prepared fixed rope) so Chinese left tent at 7600m for use by Russians and others. 1st Russian summit bid on 27th April by Choustrov and Gravilov from C3 and 28th C4 (Chinese tent) to 8000m then stopped by hard deep snow making progress too slow. Pimkin and Sergeev on 28th from C2 and reached top at 1:00 pm and slept in C4. 30th Choustrov and Gravilov going to top when Steponov in C2 coughed so hard something broke inside him much blood flowed from mouth and he died in his tent at about 10:00 am. All climbing stopped - body covered with stones. Sergeev skied down from 7600m to 7000m. 10 ropes of route technical because ice early in the year; at end of climb, snow covered ice and now easy climbing.

  * Argentinean leader of Cho Oyu expedition 13 May 98 - Argentina's doctor examined saw Stepanov and judged an artery on his neck burst - caused by high altitude and/or exhaustion. 

  Dr. David Shlim, KTM doctor, 15 May 98:  It is virtually impossible to cause artery in neck to burst, but not artery in lungs if person had prior history of TB or other cause of scar tissue in lungs.


expid: DORJ98101
peakid: DORJ
year: 1998
route1: W Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Michel Pelle
sponsor: GHA Dorje Lhakpa Expedition
ascent1: 11th
approach: Langshisa Karka->Trumpkai Langshisa Tsang
bcdate: 1998-04-30
smtdate: 1998-05-15
smttime: 1630
termdate: 1998-05-18
campsites: BC(30/04,4800m),C1(04/05,5400m),C2(12/05,6100m),Smt(15/05)
achievment: 1st French attempt
agency: Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
routememo:
  BC at Langshisa Glacier
  C1 at Col east of Langshisa Karshaum and west of Dorje Lhakpa
  C2 on ridge after 2 big seracs.

  Took 2000m rope from KTM and 1000m more sent by agency on tourist helicopter; rope not so necessary for ascent but needed for descent on ice and dangerous without. Stayed on summit few seconds because electricity in air making hair stand on end. 7 Sherpas taken for training but not all to top because strong wind frightened them; to C1 and 1 kitchen boy carried loads to C1 (3 trekking agency people say).

  Bros turned back above C1 because ran out of motivation with fiance at BC. Others were on top at 4:30 pm and returned to C2 at 7:15 pm.


expid: CHOY98106
peakid: CHOY
year: 1998
route1: NW side (direct rte)
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Danilo Tic
sponsor: Independent climber on Cho Oyu (Swiss-Austrian permit)
bcdate: 1998-04-24
smtdate: 1998-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to extreme cold and no time for another attempt
campsites: BC(24/04),ABC(25/04,5600m),C1(27/04,6300m),C2(06/05,7000m),xxx(13/05,7000m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Tried for summit from ABC with Fabrizio Zangrilli of OTT expedition from ABC 12 May, slept at 6800m in OTT tent, 13th cooked all day and started up for top at 10:00 pm; at 11:30 pm reached 7000m and rested there but -25 degrees C in tent and didn't have down suits so down on 14th and Tic's climb finished (should have been back at work on 18th).


expid: CHOY98103
peakid: CHOY
year: 1998
route1: NW side from N (direct rte)
nation: Romania
leaders: Constantin Lacatusu
sponsor: Romanian Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1998-04-14
smtdate: 1998-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to bad weather and no time left
campsites: ChineseBC(14/04),ABC(18/04,5700m),C1(24/04,6300m),C2(25/04,6800m),C3(02/05,7200m),xxx(14/05,7500m)
accidents: 9th May Lacatusu broke rib?
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C2 at plateau in middle of seracs
  High point in rock band.

  Moved tent at 6800m to 7200m on 2nd May, then down to ABC to rest and up to C1 6 May in 1st summit attempt. 7th wanted to go to 7200m but stayed at 6800m in OTT American's tent because had become windy and snowing. This was total change in weather from no wind to bad winds. 8th OTT's Zangrilli down but Romanians stayed another day and then they too down to ABC. Hoped for one more attempt and on 12th went to C1, to C2 on 13th and stayed 2 hours only and in evening up to 7200m 9:00 pm for night ascent. 2 Swiss already in their tent but Swiss left for someone else's tent after half hour. Romanians tried to get warm and had drinks. At 11:00 pm Zangrilli and Slovenian Tic came up from 6800m and into their 2-man tent, Zangrilli with frozen hands and Romanians tried to help him get hands warm; Tic tired and lay down. Romanians left at 4:00 am 14th May it was very cold and Lacatusu's rib hurt very much and both were very sleepy; at 6:00 am at 7500m decided to return to 7200m to sleep and eat and try for top later (in evening): weather in afternoon again bad with wind and snow and on 15th worst weather so far, so down to ABC in these bad conditions and climb now over because of tight schedule with Lacatusu planning to go to Xixabangma and yaks had been ordered for 14 May at ABC (Lacatusu did not actually go to Xixa with painful rib).


expid: CHOY98104
peakid: CHOY
year: 1998
route1: NW side from N (direct rte)
nation: Austria
leaders: Hermann Trippacher
sponsor: Austrian Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 282
countries: Germany
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1998-04-14
smtdate: 1998-05-06
smttime: 1545
termdate: 1998-05-16
campsites: BC(14/04,4750m),ABC(19/04,5700m),C1(26/04,6350m),C2(02/05,6800m),C2B(05/05,7100m),Smt(06/05)
accidents: 2 cases slight frostbite
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  6th May team saw Everest and Lhotse from top. Mountain difficult says Prinz. [Summit time given as 18:00 (presume CST from photo in Brunnthaler's book).]

  7th May 2nd summit party stopped by weather, cold, wind and snow falling. Two [both Trippachers] reached Chinese tent [at 7500m] and down.

  Next 3-4 days after 6th May stormy weather and everyone down. No more members wanted to try for top by now.


expid: CHOY98116
peakid: CHOY
year: 1998
route1: NW side from N (direct rte)
nation: China
leaders: Gao Yong-Hong
sponsor: Beijing University
ascent1: 279
smtdate: 1998-04-21
smttime: 1300
campsites: BC,C1,C2(7200m),C3,C4(7800m),Smt(21/04)
accidents: 1 member eye problem
agency: Tibetan Mountaineering Assoc
routememo:
  Summit team went to top from C4 on 21 April and descended same to C2. No further attempt for summit. Members were young people.

  17 May - Den: expedition was from Beijing University; leader (a graduate) and 16 members were students; also had a CTMA "advisor" Tenju Dorje, who helped them fix rope, went with them up to 6500m [7000m?]. One member left early with eye problems (snow blindness?).

  28 May - OTT members reported Chinese left "enormous mess" of rubbish at ABC which OTT people collected and disposed of.


expid: AMAD98101
peakid: AMAD
year: 1998
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Norway
leaders: Magne Berger Nilsen
sponsor: Norwegian Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 1998-04-07
smtdate: 1998-04-14
termdate: 1998-04-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to deep snow and lack of time
campsites: BC(07/04,4700m),ABC(10/04,5400m),C1(13/04,5760m),xxx(14/04,6000m)
accidents: Sirdar Ang Dorje pneumonia; 1 member altitude sickness to over exertion
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC  at normal site
  ABC on SW Ridge
  C2  on ridge (start of big ridge)
  High point at yellow tower (C2 normal site).

  Lot of snowfall and wind, cold wind; trouble getting through snow to go from BC to ABC; and needed 2 porters to take loads to ABC and with sirdar sick, trek took extra time to get to ABC. Worked with American team in mid-April. Made C2 on 14th but did not slept in there. One member got sick now (Landsverk) from altitude and hard work and helped to go to BC. Left BC 17th to go home; needed 3 days from C2 to reach summit and had not enough time left to meet flight date from KTM to home.

  Miss Edset wants to return to Ama Dablam to become 1st Norwegian woman summiter.


expid: AMAD98102
peakid: AMAD
year: 1998
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Mark Thompson
sponsor: 1998 Summit County Colorado Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 1998-04-07
smtdate: 1998-04-17
termdate: 1998-04-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m after Norwegian team left with ropes
campsites: BC(07/04,4600m),ABC(09/04,5300m),C1(13/04,5940m),xxx(17/04,6000m)
accidents: Schmitt altitude sickness
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC at normal site (same as Norwegians).

  Cached gear at C2 site but never slept in. Route was drier than expected and no fixed lines left from earlier seasons. Worked with Norwegians who had plenty of rope but suddenly Norwegians left and took their ropes with them. Americans could have bought Norwegians rope but bad weather setting in so decided to leave too.


expid: AMAD98103
peakid: AMAD
year: 1998
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Sweden
leaders: Kristian Thisted
sponsor: Swedish Ama Dablam Expedition 1998
countries: Denmark
bcdate: 1998-04-14
smtdate: 1998-04-22
termdate: 1998-05-02
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to afternoon snowing and lack of time
campsites: BC(14/04,4500m),ABC.Depot(19/04,5300m),C1(20/04,5700m),xxx(22,28,30/04,5800m)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  Had planned to put C2 6000m on red tower but got no higher than 5800m on 22nd, 28th and 30th because started snowing in early afternoons and no old fixed ropes on mountain. Now had no more time: had to leave BC on 2 May to get home for work on time.


expid: CHOY98105
peakid: CHOY
year: 1998
route1: NW side (direct rte)
nation: Canada
leaders: Eric Martineau
sponsor: Cho Oyu Itineraire d'un Reve
ascent1: 281
bcdate: 1998-04-14
smtdate: 1998-05-01
smttime: 1500
termdate: 1998-05-10
campsites: BC(14/04),ABC(18/04,5700m),C1(26/04,6400m),C2(02/05,6800m),C3(28/05,7200m),Smt(01/05)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Three members went directly to C3 from C1 and to top by two of them while Charest did not attempt summit after Russian's death. Summit party left camp 3:00 am and on top after about 12 hours, 1-1/2 hours after left rock band and while Everest in clouds could see were at highest point. Slept in C3 which reached at 7:00 pm. 

  2nd summit party Charest (again), Martineau and Geveau up to C2 on 2 May but not higher for various reasons and slept in C2 that night of 2 May and down next day and climb finished. 

  Zekri didn't get on well with her team and joined Argentinean, Austrian and OTT groups and got to about 7500m.


expid: CHOY98102
peakid: CHOY
year: 1998
route1: NW side from N (direct rte)
nation: Argentina
leaders: Rodolfo Ramos
sponsor: 8th Argentine Expedition to Himalaya - to Cho Oyu
ascent1: Claimed
countries: USA
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1998-04-12
smtdate: 1998-05-01
smttime: 1600
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m (lower summit); claimed success, but disputed
campsites: ChineseBC(12/04),ABC(15/04,5400m),C1(19/04,6400m),C2(23/04,7200m),C3(30/04,7500m),xxx(01/05,8100m)
accidents: Sieger altitude sickness; Ramos and Martinis rheumatic fever
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C4 pitched by Chinese and given to Argentineans, but Argentineans didn't use it but went from C3 to top to C3. Left C3 from top at 6:00 am (Chinese time) on 1 May, on top 4:00 pm (reached plateau with Canadians but did not go as far as Canadians and in clouds could not see many peaks - maybe not to highest plateau first). Most difficult section was seracs from C1 to C2 and even that not very difficult. 

  2nd summit team Peterson, Centeno, Sieger and Ramos: Ramos gave up at 7100m (sick-flu) but other 3 to C3 and tried for top 5 May; reached Sieger to 7850m had started early alone and took wrong line and very tired in deep snow. Centeno to 7700m and Peterson to 7600m, both exasperated by depth of snow. No more time or climbers for another try for top.


  Canadian summiter Loubert - 13 May 98

  Argentineans did not summit, but stopped ascent before plateau and returned to C2 hours before Canadians.


expid: KUSU98101
peakid: KUSU
year: 1998
route1: SE Ridge
route2: E Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Yasushi Yamanoi
bcdate: 1998-04-14
smtdate: 1998-04-22
smttime: 0200
termdate: 1998-04-26
campsites: BC(14/04,4600m),C1(21/04,5700m),Biv(6100m),Smt(22/04)
achievment: 1st ascent of E Face
agency: None
routememo:
  BC at east side of mountain west-northwest of Tangnag on Shorang
  C1 at plateau
  C2 between north and east summit (very close to summit).

  While Mrs Yamanoi and Inoue climbed via SE Ridge (normal route); Yasushi made first ascent of East Face, 1200m high face of 85 degrees steep rock in lower part and ice in upper part. Difficult rock and ice. Climbed during night because of falling rock and ice and reached summit at 2:00 am on 22nd April.

  26 April moved from BC to Khare, north of Mera Peak and normal site for Mera BC. From there north to Hinku Glacier and then ENE to Khare Glacier, where slept at 5600m plateau of Khare Glacier night of 29th-30th two Yamanois tried to climb West Face of Pt 6623 (Peak 41?) and reached 6000m. Direct line was blue ice, very steep; tried different line but here was very loose rock so attempt abandoned. The peak they think is Peak 41 is ENE of Kusum Kanguru, NNE of Mera La, north of Naulekh (see attached photocopy of Shorong Hinku map). Some sources give its altitude as 6654m/21,830 ft.


expid: ANN198103
peakid: ANN1
year: 1998
route1: N Face (left of Dutch Rib)
nation: Spain
leaders: Juan Jose Garra
sponsor: Spanish Al Filo Team to Annapurna
bcdate: 1998-04-23
smtdate: 1998-05-06
termdate: 1998-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7650m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(23/04,4150m),ABC(27/04,5100m),C1(29/04,5800m),C2(04/05,6800m),C3(05/05,7550m),xxx(06/05,7650m)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC was 100m from Koreans at same altitude
  High point on North Face, well east of "Sickle".

  After 5 May much new snow and dangerous avalanching. Up to C2 14 May and slept there but next day snowing and tent a little broken so 15th May down to BC again and wait for good weather. But decided on 19th not to wait to longer. Small avalanche on 6 May 3:00 am did no damage but indicated danger. Followed same route as Korean team this spring.

  Salas and Barez to C1 only because too difficult and dangerous for novices.


expid: CHOY98107
peakid: CHOY
year: 1998
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Thomas Richardson
sponsor: OTT (Out There Trekking) Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 284,288,290
countries: Australia, Ireland, USA
bcdate: 1998-04-24
smtdate: 1998-05-14
smttime: 1145
termdate: 1998-05-25
accidents: Nothing (Palesch and Fioretti pleaded Palesch's illness to escape)
agency: Nepal Myths & Mountain Trails
campsites:
  BC(24/04),ABC(27/04,5700m),C1(01/05,6400m),C2(05/05,7100m),C3(19/05,7400m),C3B(13/05,7500m),Smt(14,20-21/05)

routememo:
  C3 at Tichy route (Irish only)
  C3 at direct route (Brennan only).

  Prax 1st summiter of expeditions alone to summit: left C2 on 13th at 8:00 pm Nepal time, rested an hour at 7500m camp and on top 14 May at 11:45 am and back to C2 about 6:00 pm. 

  20 May to top Phenden and Nima Sherpas at 8:30 am from Tichy C3; left camp 3:00 am with Anders, Wildsmith, Falvey and Bate who got to top 12:30-1:00 (and saw Everest) and back to C3. 

  21 May Pearson and Roach left C3 Tichy route 4:15 am, but Roach turned back at about 8000m at 9:00 am while Pearson to top 11:00 am (no other team to top on 21st) and to C1 at 6:00 pm. Zangrilli top of rock band at 8150m when toes cold; via direct route from C2 just behind 2 Sherpas. 

  Irish were independent party and one unionist and one nationalist got to top and wanted to show could work together and vote for peace in Northern Ireland; they were Bate and Falvey.

  Sherpa summiters: 
     Nima (Kharikhola), summited Cho Oyu in Oct 1996
     Phenden Sherpa, 1st 8000er, from Kharikhola, 25 Aug 71


expid: CHOY98108
peakid: CHOY
year: 1998
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Robert Rackl
sponsor: Amical Alpin Cho Oyu Expedition 1998
ascent1: 285
countries: Spain, Switzerland
bcdate: 1998-04-25
smtdate: 1998-05-19
smttime: 1000
termdate: 1998-05-25
campsites: BC(25/04),ABC(27/04,5700m),C1(02/05,6300m),C2(12/05,7100m),C3(18/05,7500m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Did not use the direct route to summit but followed Tichy's circuitous route which not so steep and dangerous for tired climbers. Summit team left C3 5:00 am and included Zippel, who very tired at yellow band at 7800m and turned back to C3. 3 summiters on top at 10:00 am with no wind and fine view of Everest; back to C3 12:00 and C2 at 1:00 pm to sleep there. Were on summit before Italians by about one hour before 1st of Italians to reach top.

  3 members left early: Demont bag cough, Hentschel not at all fit and Guenzal left because he knew Roesner, who fell to his death on another expedition on 13 May.


expid: CHOY98113
peakid: CHOY
year: 1998
route1: NW side (direct & Tichy rtes)
nation: Germany
leaders: Andreas Kraus
sponsor: DAV Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 287,291,295,296
countries: Austria
bcdate: 1998-05-02
smtdate: 1998-05-20
smttime: 1200
termdate: 1998-05-25
campsites: BC(02/05),ABC(05/05,5700m),C1(08/05,6250m),C2(12/05,7100m),C3(21/05,7300m),Smt(20,22-24/05)
accidents: Lebek slightly frostbitten fingers
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  20th May left C2 3:00 am summiters to top from C2 by direct line at 12:00 noon and down to C1 at 5:00 and 5:30 pm. 

  22nd May summiters from C2 Weinberger, Roozen and Laemmle via direct line, left C2 at 3:00-3:30 am and on top about 1:00 pm and back to C3 at 3:00 (1 member) and 4:00+; from C3 Lebek, Staschull and Friedrich at 4:00 am and on top 2:30-3:00 pm and to C3 at 5:30 pm. 

  23 May from C2 Schmid and Kuchler at 3:00 am, Kuchler turned back at 7200m not feeling well. While Schmid went to C3 and yellow band and back C3 and again up when he could follow Dutch expedition; at top 3:00 pm and back to C2 6:15 pm.

  24 May Maria and Zbigniew Mlynarczyk up from C3 at 7:00 am and on top at 3:30 pm and down to C2 at 6:00 pm.


expid: CHOY98111
peakid: CHOY
year: 1998
route1: NW side (direct line up)
nation: Italy
leaders: Marco Della Santa
sponsor: Italian-British team to Cho Oyu
ascent1: 286
countries: UK
bcdate: 1998-05-01
smtdate: 1998-05-19
smttime: 1145
termdate: 1998-05-24
accidents: Faccio cerebral edema but recovered on descent
agency: Thamserku Trekking
campsites:
  BC(01/05),Intermed.ABC(02/05,5230m),ABC(03/05,5650m),C1(09/05,6350m),Temp.C(14/05,6800m),C2(15/05,7100m),Smt(19/05)

routememo:
  19th May left C2 3:00 am and on top at 2:00 pm CST (11:45 am NST) and 2:30 pm and return to C2 6:30-7:00 pm, nearly dark and very tired (kept falling asleep in descent); spent up to 1-1/2 hours at top.


expid: CHOY98115
peakid: CHOY
year: 1998
route1: NW side from N
nation: Brazil
leaders: Waldemar Niclevicz
ascent1: 293
countries: Italy
approach: By road->Xixabangma->Cho Oyu
bcdate: 1998-05-18
smtdate: 1998-05-23
smttime: 0900
termdate: 1998-05-26
campsites: BC(18/05),ABC(19/05,5800m),C1(21/05,6400m),C2(22/05,7000m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  All 3 members summited Xixabangma on 11 May and thence to Cho Oyu BC. Left C2 at 00:30 hours 23rd May (Nepal time) and on top 9:00 am (at top found Catholic cross, wine bottle and glass and snow picket and saw Everest, Lhotse, etc). Very cold but little wind. Down to ABC same day.


expid: EVER98118
peakid: EVER
year: 1998
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Uzbekistan
leaders: Anatoli Shabanov
sponsor: First Uzbek Everest Expedition Spring 1998
ascent1: 290,292,294,301
bcdate: 1998-04-13
smtdate: 1998-05-22
smttime: 1445
termdate: 1998-05-27
accidents: Nothing serious
achievment: 1st Uzbekistan attempt and success
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(13/04),TempBC(15/04,5800m),ABC(16/04,6400m),C1(20/04,7000m),C2(24/04,7700m),C3(14/05,8300m),Smt(22-25/05)

routememo:
  C1 at North Col.

  1st summit party 3 members went to 8100m 16 May and left gear and 18 May reached C3 finally after 16th and 17th May's winds abated. 18 May were ordered down because Grigoriev at C2 feared they too tired for summit. 19 May Fedorov, Usaev, Tukhvatullin and Zaikin arrived C3 but 20th ordered down after acclimatization at 8300m and down to ABC 20 May. 

  21 May 8 members from ABC up and Radjapov reached C3, Sokolov, Grigoriev, Usaev, Fedorov and Baskakova to C2; Tukhvatullin and Zaikin to C1 only; Dokukin, Roman Mats and Balmagambetov stayed in stayed in ABC. 22 May Radjapov on top 5:00 pm Chinese time (14:45 NST), just before Arsentiev. When he went above 2nd Step at at 8700m and spent 15-20 minutes talking with them while going up with them; he told them they going too late but they said wife prepared for bivouac (and they were seen by Chinese liaison officer saw them on top after 6 pm) and Radjapov in C3 at 5:00 pm, very tired. 23rd and 24th also others on top. 

  25th 2 summiters started very early because were slow climbers and feared bad weather coming. Now climb finished because no more climbing members left to try (Boystov bad cough and unable to try). 

  23rd May summit party met Mrs Francys Arsentiev at 8600m in a bad condition from her having been to summit evening before and night bivouac and 2 members, Fedorov and Grigoriev stayed with her from hour trying to help her; this made them later on summit than other in their party.

  All summiters used oxygen from C3 to top and some in C3.


expid: EVER98116
peakid: EVER
year: 1998
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Noriyuki Muraguchi
sponsor: Japan-China Qomolungma Scientific Expedition 1998
ascent1: 280
bcdate: 1998-04-11
smtdate: 1998-05-19
smttime: 1013
termdate: 1998-05-25
agency: Rolwaling Trek
campsites:
  ChineseBC(11/04),C1(16/04,5500m),C2(17/04,4600m),C3.ABC(23/04,6300m),C4(03/05,7000m),C5(17/05,7800m),C6(18/05,8200m),Smt(19/05)

routememo:
  C4 at North Col.

  Ino not to top in filming other two summiters on 19 May at 10:13 am and 10:18 am (Muraguchi) Nepal time. Returned to North Col at 6:30 pm NST. Used oxygen sleeping in C5 and C6 and climbing C5 to top; in descent to North Col used it all the way. Photographer Ino used oxygen in his first night at North Col, tired.

  Sherpas: 
    Mingma Tshering, Rolwaling, 1970, Everest X3 before + K-2;
    Tshering (Chhiring) Dorje, Rolwaling, 1974, Cho Oyu + Manaslu in 1996 
    Pasang Kidar, 1979, Rolwaling, this his 1st 8000er

  Oxygen used while sleeping in C5 and above.


expid: EVER98110
peakid: EVER
year: 1998
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Vladimir Shataev
sponsor: Everest 1998
ascent1: 277
countries: Belarus
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 1998-04-05
smtdate: 1998-05-18
smttime: 1420
termdate: 1998-05-19
campsites: BC(05/04,5110m),ABC(09/04,6400m),C1(17/04,7000m),C2(27/04,7700m),C3(16/05,8200m),Smt(18/05)
achievment: 1st Belarussian to top
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col.

  Gouhko hired a Sherpa from Japanese expedition and with 3 oxygen bottles and got to 7700m on 1st or 2nd May but no higher. Koulabatchenko to C2 on 27 April with Uzbekistan's. 18 May very good weather no wind and sunshine and left C3 10:00 am (China Time) alone and with oxygen went fast, and on top 16:35 (14:20 NST), after all others summiters and slept in 7700m camp (arrived at midnight) and BC 19th.

  Oxygen used by Gouhko to 7700m and Koulabatchenko night of 17th and to top on 18th.


expid: EVER98121
peakid: EVER
year: 1998
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hirofumi Konishi
sponsor: Japanese to Everest
bcdate: 1998-04-14
smtdate: 1998-04-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to Konishi's weak condition
campsites: BC(14/04),ABC(22/04,6400m),C1(24/04,7000m),xxx(26/04,7800m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  "Body in no good condition - I don't understand" why but no strength at all. Went to C2 on 26 April and made camp there but did not sleep there according to plan for his oxygen-less ascent. Down BC because not in condition and to village Tashizing; returned to BC 14 May. 17 May BC to ABC, 18th and 19th not in ABC, 20th to C1, 21st rest in C1, 22nd up from C1 to 7200m but not good condition and down to ABC. In ABC decided climb finished on 24th. Took 4 bottles oxgyen for Sherpa Dawa Tshering. Konishi had sore throat, then fever, then general weakness. "I think Chomolongma did not give permission."


expid: EVER98107
peakid: EVER
year: 1998
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Boris Sedousov
sponsor: Russian Everest Expedition
ascent1: 276,288,291
countries: Estonia, France, Georgia, USA
bcdate: 1998-04-02
smtdate: 1998-05-18
smttime: 1305
termdate: 1998-05-22
campsites: BC(02/04),ABC(07/04,6300m),C1(15/04,7000m),C2(17/04,7500m),C3(05/05,8200m),Smt(18,21-22/05)
accidents: Paskin and Piotr Kuznetsov throat infections and left early
achievment: 1st married couple from North (Mr & Mrs Arsentiev)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C2 moved on 29th to 7700m.

  16 May Klimine, Kolesnikov and Piotr Kuznetsov tried for top but only 8400m and turned back because deep snow.

  18 May next try: Bolotov, Pershin, Timofeev, Vinogradski left C3 at 5:00 am Chinese time and on top 15:20 hours (13:05 NST) all with oxygen (some with oxygen night before) and slept C3, arrived there 18:00 hours - slow climbing because much snow. 

  21 May again summit by Moshinikov 2:45 pm (12:15 NST) without oxygen and Roman with oxygen 2:10 pm (11:55 NST). 

  22 May on top Arsentiev man and wife without oxygen at 18:00 (15:45 NST) after having started at midnight. Wife found by Uzbeks at about 8500m lying down, still alive, gave her oxygen and 2 stayed with her while other 2 went to top.

  30 May - Regarding Arsentievs: Uzbek summiters of 22 May met them above 2nd Step at 8700m on 22nd and spent 15-20 minutes chatting with them as they were moving upwards (he went back upwards with them as little distance); the Uzbeks told them they were too late to go to top, but they said they were prepared for bivouac.

  They were seen by Shabanov and Chinese liaison officer through binoculars from BC to be on summit "after 6 pm." On 23rd Uzbek summit party of 5 met her at First Step at 8600m while they were going to top; she was standing but not moving, did not ask for help, in fact did not speak; Fedorov and Grigoriev stayed an hour with her, gave her oxygen [but to no apparent effect] and sat her down in comfortable position, but got no response from her, and they then went on to summit. Uzbeks had already met her husband below First Step at 8500m, and he seemed to be in "not bad condition"; he wished them good luck and good weather; he was descending and reached C3 about an hour later at about 10:00 am Chinese Time; Sokolov assumed he was going for oxygen for his wife, for other items for her and perhaps people to help; he left C3 at 4:00-5:00 pm, and went up alone with oxygen, medicine, food and drink to look for her. He was never seen again; his wife was found dead at 8600m by Sherpas on 24th May. There were no other members of their team in C3; they had stayed up alone with no support, no radio and no oxygen.

  31 May 98 - Sokolov by telephone: 2 South African Sherpas on 24th on their way to summit gave her water, he thinks and did put her arms in her sleeves and gloves on her hand. When they came to her on their descent at 2:30 pm (Chinese time), she was dead.

  Oxygen used in and above C3 by some.

  2 June 98 - Cathy O'Dowd of South African team described encounter with Francys on 24 May and O'Dowd's Sherpas with her: On 24th left C3 at 2:30 am Nepal time: Woodall, O'Dowd and 3 Sherpas (1 Sherpa stayed in C3) plus a younger (Chinese) TMA wanted to get to top. Soon after left C3 3 Uzbeks caught up with South Africans and made a party of 9. Reached North Ridge at dawn and Uzbek's paused while other 6 kept on up Ridge reached First Step and near bottom found body of woman which moaned and moved in spasms and could say only "don't leave me alone" and "why are you doing this to me" and "I am an American"; lying in horrible position: clipped in to fixed rope which kept her waist up while her head and feet down. O'Dowd, Woodall and Zangbu stayed with her an hour, moved her around to boulder and put her into better position while Sherpa put hot drink to her lips; Woodall tried to get her to come to attention but eyes open but not seeing. This was at 5:15 to 6:15 am - realized she hopeless: her speech line automotor with 3 phrases - not sure who she was. O'Dowd "very shaken" and asked Ian if he would come down with her and he agreed. Woodall asked for Sherpa to go with them while other 2 Sherpas chose to go to top and did with Tibetan, about 10:15 am. Woodall, O'Dowd, and Sherpa with them to C1 while summiters to ABC same day. No one was in C3 when came through but numerous others came up past them on their way to top.

  31 May 98 - Uzbek member Sokolov (by telephone): South African summit party of 5 came to First Step and 2 members went down immediately "full of feeling" at seeing Francys Arsentiev and returned to C3 at 9:00 am Chinese time; they took "no action" at C3 about Francys and this was "terrible." 2 South African Sherpas before proceeding on to summit gave her water, he thinks and put her arms inside her sleeves and her gloves on her hands; when these two Sherpa summiters descended to her at 2:30 pm Chinese time she was dead.

  26 May 98 - Capetown journalist Ken Vernon by telephone: members Brasg, Fouche, Le Roux and Ronald resigned from expedition 18 May and left BC about 18/19 May because Woodall "lied to them" and "verbally abused them."

  10 June 98 - Russell Brice of New Zealand-Japanese team: Uzbeks told no one about Francys condition on May 23 although they had radios and could have called to others to help her. Brice was not too far away and had injectable drugs; he and his Sherpa could have gone to her, injected her and got her down. Her husband alone could have done almost nothing. East Europeans bring no Sherpas, are not as strong as they think they are and are too weak to rally to a crisis - maybe they, don't care about other people's problems. Brice saw the Arsentievs at 7500m on 3rd and 4th and thought then they seemed to be people who were doggedly determined to up no matter what - even then and at that altitude they were going slowly and with big loads.


expid: CHOY98114
peakid: CHOY
year: 1998
route1: NW side from N
nation: Austria
leaders: Philippe Perlia
sponsor: Horizont Reisen Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 294
countries: Luxembourg, Switzerland
approach: Lhasa->Shigatse->Xantse->Shegar->Tingri
bcdate: 1998-05-10
smtdate: 1998-05-23
smttime: 1430
termdate: 1998-05-30
campsites: BC(10/05,4900m),ABC(15/05,5700m),C1(17/05,6400m),C2(19/05,6800m),C3(21/05,7100m),Smt(23/05)
accidents: Nothing
agency: None
routememo:
  BC  at Tichy camp
  ABC went to Jyablung at 5300m stayed there 3 nights.

  Were the only summiters on that day. Left C3 at 5:30 am and got back at 6:00 pm. Commercial expedition. Hoebenreich also in this summit group.

  Perlia tried to get the others to the top after the first group but they were too tired.


expid: EVER98114
peakid: EVER
year: 1998
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: David Hahn
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) North Ridge Everest Expedtion
ascent1: 298,305
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 1998-04-10
smtdate: 1998-05-25
smttime: 0930
campsites: BC(10/04,5000m),ABC(17/04,6600m),C1(28/04,7000m),C1(23/05,7900m),C3(24/05,8300m),Smt(25,27/05)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  In 1st summit bid on 25th May left C3 1:45 am Van Steen turned around at 27,900 ft (8500m) because feet cold while John and 2 Sherpas went on to top at 9:30 am Nepal time and back in C3 by noon. 

  2nd group 26th May went towards top Hahn, Findley, Macdonald and (Tenzing) Phinzo of Phortse, turned back at First Step at 28,000 ft (8530m) at 6:30 am because weather unsettled. 

  27th Alpert, Sloezen, Panuru left C3 1:00 am and up to top 9:15 am (Sloezen) and 9:40 (Alpert and Panuru); 3rd time on summit for Sloezen and Panuru; returned to C3 about 1:00 pm - used oxygen from low altitude "carrying big packs and if you're going to carry it, might as well use it."

  Sherpas: 
    Dawa Nuru, 33, Thami, his 2nd Everest ascent
    Lhakpa Rita, 26, Phortse, his 1st 8000er
    Panuru, 29, Phortse, his 3rd Everest ascent


expid: EVER98123
peakid: EVER
year: 1998
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: S Africa
leaders: Ian Woodall
sponsor: Mr. Price Himalayan Challenge to Everest
ascent1: 293
countries: UK
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 1998-04-15
smtdate: 1998-05-24
smttime: 1015
termdate: 1998-05-31
accidents: One very minor frostbite case
agency: Sherpa Cooperative Trekking (SCT)
campsites:
  BC(15/04),BC.Sherpa(19/04),ABC(26/04,6500m),C1(28/04,7000m),C2(21/05,7600m),C3(23/05,8300m),Smt(24/05)

routememo:
  Brasg, Ronald, Fouche and Le Roux left BC 17 May: Fouche had to get back to business, Le Roux's wife said he was needed at home and Ronald spent night at C1 in raging storm and had enough and Brasg had been in BC long enough and Horn volunteered to be BC manager in his place. 

  C3 establish by Woodall, O'Dowd and 4 Sherpas (only other climber left by 23 May was Johnstone and he went back from C1 feeling he'd reached limit of his capabilities, so no support available from below): all climbers up together. 24th left C3 at 2:30 am Nepal time: Woodall, O'Dowd and 3 Sherpas (1 Sherpa stayed in C3) plus a younger Tibetan (Ci Luo from CTMA) wanted to get to top. Soon after left C3 3 Uzbeks caught up with South Africans and made a party of 9. Reached North Ridge at dawn and Uzbeks paused while and then 6 kept on up Ridge reached First Step and near bottom found body of woman which moaned and moved in spasms and could say only "don't leave me alone" and "why are you doing this to me" and "I am an American." She was lying in horrible position, clipped in to fixed rope which kept her waist up while her head and feet down. O'Dowd, Woodall and Jangbu stayed with her an hour, moved her around to and put her into better position while Sherpa put her hot drink to her lips. Woodall tried to get her to come to attention but eyes open but not seeing - this was at 5:15 to 6:15 am - realized she hopeless: her speech like auto motor with 3 phrases. Not sure who she was. O'Dowd "very shaken" and asked Ian if he would come down with her and he agreed. Woodall asked for one Sherpa to go with them while other 2 Sherpas chose to go to top and did with Tibetan (Ci Luo), about 10:15 am. Woodall, O'Dowd and [Pemba Tenji] Sherpa with them to C1 while summiters to ABC same day. No one was in C3 when came through but numerous others came up passed them on their way to top.

  31 May 98 - Uzbek member Sokolov (by telephone): South African summit party of 5 came to First Step and 2 members went down immediately "full of feeling" at seeing Francys Arsentiev and returned to C3 at 9:00 am Chinese time. They took "no action" at C3 about Francys and this was "terrible." 2 South African Sherpas before proceeding on to summit gave her water, he thinks, and put her arms inside her sleeves and her gloves on her hands; when these two Sherpa summiters descended to her (at 2:30 pm Chinese time) she was dead.

  26 May 98 - Capetown journalist Ken Vernon by telephone: members Brasg, Fouche, Le Roux and Ronald resigned from expedition 18 May and left BC about 18-19 May because Woodall "lied to them" and "verbally abused them."

  Oxygen used:
    2 Sherpas from 7900m
    2 members from 7900m
    2 Sherpas from 8300m
    1 Tibetan from 8300m or lower


expid: EVER98127
peakid: EVER
year: 1998
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Gheorghe Dijmarescu
sponsor: Independent climber on Everest
bcdate: 1998-04-16
smtdate: 1998-05-24
termdate: 1998-06-01
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to only member not strong
campsites: BC(16/04),ABC(21/04),C1(29/04,7000m),C2(7500m),C2B(24/05,7700m),xxx(24/05,7700m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C2 at new C2
  High point at new C2 site.

  3 days in ABC and down to BC not feeling well so stayed three nights. 27th April to ABC on 30th to C1 for 3 nights. Then down to ABC 3 May. Went to 7500m with Mark Jennings and slept in own tent there and stayed several days and both down to ABC. Again up to North Col alone: went 6-7 May to North Col; went to 7700m+ alone day 24 May before Jennings left C2 for summit. On that day down to ABC and found to have bronchitis and climb finished; stayed in ABC about 2 days.


expid: EVER98132
peakid: EVER
year: 1998
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Roger Buick
sponsor: On New Zealand (Brice) permit
bcdate: 1998-05-04
smtdate: 1998-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to death from exposure
campsites: BC(04/05),Interim(07/05,5800m),ABC(08/05,6400m),C1(14/05,7000m),xxx(26/05,7400m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  High point at North Ridge.

  Buick was terribly slow climber even at relatively low altitude. [Told on] 26th, from at least 9 people, to turn back. Body found by Brice on 28th to push him off trail - was wearing only ski clothes (no down) and ski boots. His actions and clothing made no sense - brought equipment for snow probes and snowholes when had been told in advance it's a rock route; sleeping bag good for the beach; very in experienced climber - "weird behaviour" like stories to others like falling into 4 crevasses when were only 4 on entire route and route fixed from North Col to glacier and from there onwards.


  Jim Findley of US expedition led by David Hahn - 4 June 1998 

  Buick was "a determined man in all the wrong ways" and never changed his actions despite all advice from others on numerous occasions. Hahn: "he was extremely ignorant of the mountains and never could understand how they could kill him". Hahn was one of the last persons to talk to Buick. Hahn, et al: he thought everyone else was doing the climb much too expensively and elaborately and he had great disdain for guides. Was convinced that in life and climbing Everest, you learn as you go along, but he took 72 hours to descend from North Col to ABC while Hahn's client took 1-1/2 hours. Is it is possible that he wanted to die on Everest? Nothing else makes sense.


expid: EVER98124
peakid: EVER
year: 1998
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Everest Expedition 1998
ascent1: 299
countries: Japan
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 1998-04-15
smtdate: 1998-05-25
smttime: 1015
termdate: 1998-06-01
accidents: Lobsang Temba kidney infection and left early
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(15/04),ABC(21/04,6400m),C1(29/04,7000m),C2(03/05,7500m),C3(04/05,7900m),C4(24/05,8300m),Smt(25/05)

routememo:
  Established all camps by 4 May and then down to rest an mainly wait for winds to abate, then to set up 5 new tents and make repairs after winds. Summit party of Brice, Tsuzuki and Karsang left ABC 20 May to C1, 21st to C2, 22nd to C3, 24th to C4. Left C4 at 2:45 am Nepal time, on top at 10:15 am and C4 3:00 pm. 26th to ABC. Snow conditions "superb" like 1995 and about one-third of climbers summited.


expid: EVER98129
peakid: EVER
year: 1998
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kazuyoshi Kondo
sponsor: J.W.A.F. Qomolungma Expedition 1998
ascent1: 275,287,289
approach: Tingri->BC->East Rongbuk Glacier
bcdate: 1998-04-19
smtdate: 1998-05-18
smttime: 1235
termdate: 1998-05-28
accidents: Kuwabara came to KTM on 22 May after loss of appetite at 7500m; nothing serious
agency: Cosmo Treks
campsites:
  BC(19/04,5150m),ABC.C3(21/04,6400m),C4(24/04,7100m),C5(28/04,7700m),C6(17/05,8200m),Smt(18,20,22/05)

routememo:
  BC at C1 -> 5400m stayed a night at 5800m
  C4 at North Col.

  First team left C6 at 3 am on 18th May and Kurahashi, Hashimoto, Sato, Nagata and Ang Mingma got to summit at 12:35 pm, Sakamoto at 12:57 pm. The four of were the second team to reach the summit that day. Before them a Sherpa (including Ang Mingma) from SSK, Japanese team. Then 2 Japanese from SSK, then 2 from Indian team, then some from European team with Sherpas. Kondo's team returned to C6 between between 4 and 5 pm.

  On 20 May started between 3:30 am and 4:30 am. Yano got to summit at 11:05 am with Gyaltsen Sherpa. Kawahara got to top at 12:45 pm. Nishigima got up to 8700m and abandoned because of lack of oxygen. They got back at 5:30-6:30 pm to C6. Don't know if there were others from North but there were from South.
   
  On 22nd May started 4:10 am Masaki returned after 50m. Didn't think she could get to summit, couldn't walk. Others summited at 10:40 am and returned to C6 at 3:10 pm. 2 westerners (a man and a woman) started an hour earlier without oxygen, met them between 1st and 2nd steps, and overtook. They were still climbing when the Japanese returned. Don't know if they summited. Also met a solo climber on way back without oxygen. Don't know if he summited.


expid: EVER98115
peakid: EVER
year: 1998
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hitoshi Onodera
sponsor: Showa Alpine Club Qomolangma Expedition 1998
ascent1: 273
bcdate: 1998-04-10
smtdate: 1998-05-18
smttime: 1230
termdate: 1998-05-24
campsites: BC(10/04),ABC.C3(19/04,6300m),C4(24/04,7028m),C5(06/05,7780m),C6(17/05,8200m),Smt(18-19/05)
accidents: Nothing
achievment: Oldest person to 8300m
agency: Rolwaling Trek
routememo:
  C4 at North Col.

  All summiters used oxygen: Japanese in and above C5; Sherpas used above C6 and perhaps some used below. 

  One old member Taruki reached 8300m or higher on 19 May trying for summit but started very late; summit team left C6 at 2:00 am Nepal time while he had trouble waking up and left camp only at 7:00-8:00 am; returned to C5 at 4:00 pm; had turned back because very tired.

  18th summit party arrived at top at 12:30 pm Nepal time led by Pasang Kami. 
  19th summit party: Kamimura and Chuwang Nima at 7:30 am, Onondera and Ang Dawa at 10:00 am.

  Sherpas: 
    Pasang Kami, Kharikhola, 21/7/73, Everest X3 or X4 before
    Na Temba, Kharikhola, 1959, Everest X5
    Ang Gyalzen, Thami, 1/10/62, Everest X2, Cho Oyu
    Dawa Tshering, Thami,  1966, Everest X3


expid: EVER98117
peakid: EVER
year: 1998
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Hrishikesh Yadav
sponsor: Independence Golden Jubilee Everest Expedition 1998
ascent1: 274,282
bcdate: 1998-04-11
smtdate: 1998-05-18
smttime: 1235
termdate: 1998-05-24
achievment: 1st successful Indian civilian expedition any 8000er
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(11/04),C1(13/04,5500m),C2(14/04,6000m),C3(21/04,6500m),C4(25/04,7000m),C5(27/04,7600m),C6(17/05,8300m),Smt(18-19/05)

routememo:
  BC 
  C1 13 Apr at 5500m
  C2 14 Apr at 6000m
  C4 at North Col.

  18 May summiters left C6 at 3 am NST (Chavan and 4 Sherpas) and fixed 1300m of rope from C6 to top whole route replacing old damaged rope; 12:35 pm together Nepal time and down to C5 6:00 pm (reached C6 at 3:00 pm but tent broken before 17 May). 

  19 May Loveraj and 2 Sherpas up from C6 at 2:00 am because weather forecast was clouds coming; so on top 15:15 NST and Loveraj to North Col at 7:00 pm with both Sherpas. Now climb finished.

  Sherpas: 
    Dawa Tashi, Beding, 1964, (brother of Thamtin), Everest X5 before
    Dawa Nuru, Thami, 33 years, Everest X1 before 
    Thamtin, Beding, 24, 28/7/97, his 1st 8000er
    Tenzing (Nawang Tenzing), Beding, 32, Cho Oyu only
    Phinzo Norbu, 39, Beding, Everest X1 before
    Nima Gyalzen, 22, Beding, his 1st 8000er


expid: EVER98104
peakid: EVER
year: 1998
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Slovakia
leaders: Pavol Lazar, Yu Liang-Pu
sponsor: Slovak-China Expedition to Everest, Spring 1998
ascent1: 279,293 w/SAfr
countries: China
bcdate: 1998-03-27
smtdate: 1998-05-19
smttime: 1011
termdate: 1998-05-24
campsites: BC(27/03,5200m),ABC(01/04,6400m),C1(07/04,7000m),C2(07/05,7800m),C3(08/05,8300m),Smt(05/19,24/05)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: None
routememo:
  6 May 3 Chinese and 2 Slovakians tried for summit but stopped at 8550m (First Step), tired and too much snow. 19 May 2 Chinese again tried with successful Slovakians but stopped at 8400m. All 3 summiters left C3 with two Czechs for top.

  Leader Lazar says that Plulik did not use oxygen.

  No Tibetan "Sherpas" used.

  In successful summit push of 19 May, summit party left ABC on 15th, left C1 on 16th, C2 on 17th, C3 on 18th and at summit on 19th.


expid: EVER98105
peakid: EVER
year: 1998
route1: N Face (Japanese Couloir area)
nation: Spain
leaders: Joseba Elorrieta
sponsor: Basque Expedition Everest 98
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 1998-03-28
smtdate: 1998-05-14
termdate: 1998-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to avalanche danger
campsites: BC1(28/03),BC2(05/04,5655m),ABC(09/04,6300m),C1(06/05,7200m),xxx(14,18/05,7500m)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  ABC on Rongbuk Glacier 30 minutes below start of face
  C1 at ridge/rib left of Japanese Couloir (1 tent)
  High point at top of Japanese Couloir.

  1st 1300m of face all ice very steep and no place for camp - 1300m fixed rope ABC to C1; almost every afternoon snowfall and took long time to fix rope. 14 May reached highest point at 7500m and on 15th accumulated snow started avalanching. After 15 May waited 3-4 days to decide about going on and 18 May 2 members went to 7500m to see situation and found much dangerous snow (possible slab avalanche) so face climb finished.


expid: EVER98119
peakid: EVER
year: 1998
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Jacek Berbeka
sponsor: Independent climber on Everest
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 1998-04-13
smtdate: 1998-05-07
termdate: 1998-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 8350m due to bad weather and no more time
campsites: BC(13/04),ABC(18/04,6400m),C1(20/04,7100m),C2(26/04,7700m),C3(06/05,8300m),xxx(07/05,8350m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  1st summited bid: Berbeka and Norsek member of Czech expedition, left C3 at 2:00 am on 7th May but turned back quickly because winds very strong; reached about 8350m only and immediately down to ABC. Now all teams in ABC in bad weather. 

  Up again on 14 May to C3 but all tents gone in winds (30 tents at C2 also all gone) so down  to ABC. 19 May to BC and climb finished; had no more time, had to return to work.


expid: EVER98122
peakid: EVER
year: 1998
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Pascal Debrouwer
sponsor: Montagnes du Monde Everest 1998
countries: Brazil, France, Portugal
bcdate: 1998-04-14
smtdate: 1998-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 8500m due to frostbitten nose and lack of strength
accidents: Laynaud altitude sickness; Garcia slightly frostbitten nose
agency: Nepal Trekking & Expeditions
campsites:
  BC(14,16/04),TempC(20/04,5800m),ABC(21/04,6400m),C1(27/04,7000m),C2(18/05,7900m),C3(25/05,8300m),xxx(26/05,8500m)

routememo:
  C1 at North Col.

  On 28 April tent set up at 7700m for C2 but wind collapsed it and South African Sherpas pushed it off platform to set up their team's camp (items inside later recovered). Summit attempt by Garcia and Debrouwer: up from ABC to C1 17 May, C1 to C2 18th but down to BC on 19th because wind were strong at lower altitudes. 

  23rd May BC Garcia and Debrouwer to ABC; Debrouwer decided he must go to top quickly because was not sleeping at altitude so on 24th Garcia to C1 with Destramau, 25th Garcia and Destremau to C2 while Debrouwer climbed from ABC to C2 and Garcia alone that afternoon to 8300m and Uzbek tent (with Uzbek permission) and that night at midnight Debrouwer and Destremau, climbing slowly, arrived at C3 also. 26th May Garcia started up at 1:00 am just before American party and went to 8500m; American Hahn pointed to his nose and Garcia realized nose was numb, tried oxygen for 1 minute but mask uncomfortable with goggles, so decided to go down and slept in ABC with "tiny hope" to go up again, but no "last expedition" to camp with Debrouwer and Destremau had no strength to go higher and so down to ABC from C3 as soon as sun came up. Now climb finished.


expid: EVER98125
peakid: EVER
year: 1998
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Mark Jennings
sponsor: Independent climber on Everest
ascent1: 300
bcdate: 1998-04-15
smtdate: 1998-05-25
smttime: 1115
campsites: BC(15/04),ABC(20/04,6400m),C1(27/04,7000m),C2(7500m),C3(23/05,7800m),C4(24/05,8300m),Smt(25/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  25th from C4 at 2:00 am with Nima Wangchu, who went faster to top. Sherpa went to C4 at 11:30 am made tea and took up to Mark. Mark reached C4 6:00 pm with Nima. In C4 Mark very tired and breathing with difficulty and used Anna Czerwinska's oxygen. 26th Mark left C4 in morning alone but only 5 minutes before Sherpa - down only 100m, disconnected himself from fixed rope and sat down 3-4m away from rope, presumably "knowing he had a problem." When Sherpa reached him he was dead, so Sherpa up to 8300m to Brice, who come down to Mark; found him dead though oxygen on full flow of 4 liters/minute; died of exhaustion? Good friend of Brice. Brice shifted him off route lying on his back with peaceful expression and eyes open.


expid: EVER98126
peakid: EVER
year: 1998
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Anna Czerwinska
sponsor: Independent climber on Everest
bcdate: 1998-04-15
smtdate: 1998-05-19
termdate: 1998-06-01
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to Anna's weakness from bronchitis
campsites: BC(15/04),ABC(21/04,6400m),C1(27/04,7000m),C2(18/05,7700m),xxx(19/05,8300m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C2 by only Sherpa once
  High point at site for C3.

  "Sherpa" first goal was to put oxygen at C3 at 8300m and did so then started to establish camps. Sherpas made C2 and C3 but Anna never slept in them. Sherpa once between 18 and 21 May. On 21 May Anna and Sherpa to 7700m; both down to North Col to sleep and maybe Sherpa to ABC. Then Anna got bronchitis and when she had better health it was better, went up on 25th to C1, but not really much better so down on 26th and climb finished because not strong.


expid: EVER98131
peakid: EVER
year: 1998
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Heinz Rockenbauer
sponsor: International Expedition 1998 Mt. Everest
ascent1: 303
countries: Germany
approach: Zhalung->Nylam->Tingri
bcdate: 1998-04-24
smtdate: 1998-05-26
smttime: 0900
termdate: 1998-05-28
campsites: BC(24/04,5200m),ABC(28/04,6400m),C1(01/05,7100m),C2(16/05,7700m),C3(17/05,8300m),Smt(26/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C2 set then came back to BC.

  Rackenbauer and Chlastak left C3 at 2:00 am NST on 26 May and reached top at 9:00 am NST. Chlastak stopped at 8500m because of exhaustion. No other teams summited on 26 May.

  On 25 May Studer went up alone and got up to 8675m after spending 24 May night at C3 without a tent. He had made arrangements with Czechs to leave tent behind (by Czechs) but couldn't find it. At 8675m it was simply too cold. On the way back he met Rackenbauer and Chlastak who were coming up with them since can't find Czech tent. Mrs Studer went to C3 on 17 May with others and back to C2 on 18th with them; she did not join her husband in his climb to C3 on 24th because of news which distressed her about American woman dying.


expid: EVER98120
peakid: EVER
year: 1998
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Zdenek Hruby
sponsor: Mt Everest 1998 Expedition
ascent1: 281
bcdate: 1998-04-13
smtdate: 1998-05-19
smttime: 1215
termdate: 1998-06-01
accidents: Nothing serious but Blazek and Hlava some stomach trouble
agency: Thamserku Trekking
campsites:
  BC(13/04),Temp(17/04,5900m),ABC(18/04,6700m),C1(20/04,7000m),C2(25/04,7650m),C3(18/05,8300m),Smt(19/05)

routememo:
  19th May 1st summit bid by Jaros and Nosek with Slovak to top without oxygen together at 14:30 Chinese team (12:15 NST); left C3 with 3 Slovakians; 2 Slovakians using oxygen climbed faster while Slovak and 2 Czechs without oxygen were slower. Czechs slept in C3 with Phulik, returning there at 18:00 and 19:00 hours. 

  20th Skalka and Hruby should go up but Skalka not feeling well. Hruby started late (about 11 am) knowing too late for top and reached 8600m at about 15:30 hours and down to C2 while others also descending to C2: not safe for Hruby to continue above. 

  23rd another pair [Drda and Kozak] wanted to reach C3 for summit bid on 24th but turned back at about 8100m because strong wind. Now climb finished.


expid: LHOT98102
peakid: LHOT
year: 1998
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Andrew Lapkass
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Lhotse Expedition
ascent1: 46th dispute,47-48th
countries: Argentina, Canada, Latvia, Turkey
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1998-04-04
smtdate: 1998-05-18
termdate: 1998-05-30
campsites: BC(04/04,5400m),C1(08/04,6000m),C2(10/04,6400m),C3(22/04,7350m),C4(24/05,7900m),Smt(18,25,27/05)
accidents: Markey sprained ankle, left BC on May 4
achievment: 1st Latvian, 1st Argentinean, 1st Turk and Muslim Lhotse summit
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  First group on 25 May started from C4 at 4:30 am and summited at 11:00 am came down to C2. This group was climbing with two other Henry Todd expeditions to Everest up to C3. Shared fixed ropes, camps up to C3. Used 2 Sherpas for Lhotse after C3. Members left BC from May 20 onwards.

  Made a summit attempt on May 18 from C3 and got up to 8300m. Abandoned because it was getting late, tired, and deep snow. 

  Source of above information: Andrew Lapkass

  Use of oxygen: 
    Heinrich and Lapkass started from C3 including for sleeping.
    Bull and Pauls started from C4 including for sleeping.

  5 other climbers on the Lhotse permit did not attempt Lhotse, but concentrated solely on Everest.


  From another team summiter:

  "I have absolutely no doubt he did not get to the summit." His description of summit was "totally different" from the highest summit: he described a rock summit, but true top" is like an ice snow finger" which one climbs up onto top of. Maybe he reached 200m from true top. Lapkass doesn't really know how high he got. Weather was clear that day so no problem of visability. "Probably he thought that was good enough" and "figured no one would get to the summit later and realize the discrepancies." There is a peak on the left which is in front of another one which is the highest.


  Mahruki: he and 3 other members and Ang Kami and Kipa went for summit on 18 May from C3 since team had not yet put another camp higher and it was an extremely long way to top. All others in this party turned turned around at 16:45 only 60m below summit; they were using oxygen and probably it was running out. But Mahruki was too close to top to go down yet and since he was using no oxygen, he didn't have this problem, so he continued up. Last part to top alone in possible in deep snow so he went left under a snow summit to get to rocks and took off his crampons and gloves to gain top on rock. Weather was "perfect." He made round trip from C3 to top to C3 in 25 hours: "I've never been that tired in my life" (had left C3 at 00:15 hours on 18th).

  Ratcliffe: Mahruki's actually reaching summit questioned by some other climbers who found his footprints in snow had stopped short but he explained that he went on to rocks, and he was gone long enough for his account to be true.

  Inaki Ochoa, who nearly reached summit on 17 May, had dinner with Mahruki in KTM after their return from Lhotse and he was sure Mahruki had gotten to top. Now [12 March 99] after reading Mahruki's fax to me of 24 Dec 98: "I am absolutely sure." During their dinner, Mahruki's description of last part of climb was completely convincing and fax reinforces it.


  Letter to Elizabeth Hawley from Ali Nasuh Mahruki:

  Dear Miss Hawley,

  I am sorry for this late letter. Anyway, I will try to write down everything about my Lhotse summit to make your opinion more clear.

  Our original plan for the summit attempt was; Andy, Brad and Kipa would go a day ahead of myself, Ilgvars and Ang Kami. On 15th, the first team left base camp for camp 2 for the summit push. Next day we went to camp 2 and surprised finding the first team still in there. They supposed to go to camp 3 and then try to set up camp 4 on the summit route. However they claimed it was very windy and they decided to wait another day. Of coarse this would cause a space problem on camp 4 for all of us. Also Andy had an argument with Henry about this problem.

  Before we could even make a decision on how to reorganize our summit plan, we got some bad news from the base camp about the weather forecast. It was a hard decision under those circumstances. We wanted at least to attempt the summit but the possibility of a coming cyclone to hit us was quite a risk.

  One thing I want to mention here is that, after the moment Andy heard about the coming cyclone, he said that we have to abandon the attempt. I was watching him during our base camp days and he never felt good and wanted to push hard for the summit. He was usually sick and when he got this coming cyclone news, immediately he wanted to return the team back. Without getting our ideas, he said on the radio to Henry that the whole team would understand and be happy to help carrying back the camps. Of course I refused this idea and as I insisted he had to call Henry again and told him that Nasuh does not feel that way and he wants to try. I think this is the first time that I felt Andy did not like me.

  On the night of 16th May, three Swiss climbers and Basque Inaki Ochoa set off to the summit from camp 2. After long radio talks with the other teams and watching weather forecast, finally it is decided that six of us go to camp 3 on 17th of May. At the first minutes of 18th of May, 00:15, we left camp 3 and started to go for the summit. The weather was perfect, no wind, no clouds and all clear and I was feeling perfectly well.

  First three hours I climbed in front of the group. I climbed the Yellow Band and kept going on the traverse on Lhotse towards Everest south col. I climbed till the junction of Lhotse route under the Turtle. There I decided to wait for the group thatD coming behind. At that junction point, I waited 45 minutes for the rest of the team and got cold. This can give you an idea about my speed. When the other five climbers reached, they stopped about ten minutes and all of them switched on oxygen. I made a decision on trying to climb this mountain without oxygen, so I carried only one bottle enough for six hours just in case. Everybody else carried 2 bottles. It was obvious even there that Andy was feeling bad. He had some breathing problem and his voice was very quiet.

  After they put their oxygen masks, all of us started together. First few hours, I was behind the group as I was without oxygen. But later I got my place in the middle. When we arrived somewhere around 8200 meters, I spoke with Andy who was behind me. He was looking very bad and tired and complaining that he cannot breathe, I was feeling very good and sure that I could do it without oxygen after that point. So I decided to give him my oxygen bottle for the rest of the route. I also gave him my masks as his was frozen.

  We kept climbing like that and at 16:40 we reached about 8450 meters after 16.5 hours of non-stop climb. Kipa and Ang Kami were in the front and Brad was behind them. I was the fourth on the route, then Ilgvars and Andy. At that place Andy was looking terribly tired and he was shouting to Ilgvars for some oxygen, Ilgvars was shouting to me that Andy wants oxygen and I passed this message to Brad and he passed it to Kipa and Ang Kami. However there were no oxygen left or they didn't want to give it to Andy. The Sherpas decided to abandon the attempt. They said it is too risky as we had not more rope and were all tired. Andy was not in a situation to argue. Ilgvars didn't oppose as well. I still remember Brad talking on his radio with his base camp: "I could kiss the summit but we have to return. But it is alright, I am happy about it."

  This was a hard moment for me, because although I was very tired, still feeling allright and after seeing the summit right in front of me, I couldn't decide to go back. I said I will try and left my rucksack at that point and started to climb slowly. I was very much motivated and concentrated on the summit. So I didn't even think about carrying any extra weight. My cameras were in my rucksack, and I didn't even bother with taking them with me. I lost interest on anything other then the summit itself. Probably this is my personality. Sometimes, I can become a very stubborn person.

  Before the others start going back, to make everything clear I spoke with Kipa and Brad and found out the summit. There was the end of the Lhotse couloir in front of us. There were a big hill on the left side and a rocky peak on the right. I knew from some articles that the real summit is the one on the left. But to make sure I asked the Sherpas before they go. When I was going up, I knew where to go. It was the big hill on the left of the couloir. It was no more a closed couloir as it was below, however there were so much snow on the route for me to break the trail all alone. So I decided to follow a shorter but more riskier route. I climbed directly under the summit point which is visible as a small rock pinnacle from 60-70 meters below. I went out of the original route towards left and I climbed some 5-10 meters higher than the couloir route. When I got under the summit, it was a 20 meter 90 degree steep rock between myself and the summit. I was prepared psychologically when I was coming up here, so I didn't hesitate. I climbed the first 5-6 meters on snow and reached the rocky part.

  There I had to make a new decision. I had to take off my crampons to fit my feet to the small steps and take off my gloves to hold the rock better. Thanks to the perfect weather, I didn't have so much a cold problem on my fingers. The face was mostly covered with snow, however on the left side there were rock formations mostly clean from snow. The rock was in blocks in thin slices so it was not a very safe place to be on. I found an easier chimney-like route between two rock groups and followed that. Although dangerous as most of the rocks were loose, was relatively easier as well, I climbed very very carefully and reached the ridge.

  When I was on the ridge I saw the old fixed ropes coming from the col from the end of the couloir towards where I was. There were bad quality, quite thick for this altitude and blue colour. I saw the magnificent view of Makalu on my right side. It was looking amazingly big and close to Lhotse. It was like a huge rock, mostly clean from snow, above some ridge systems. In front of me there was a ridge that goes towards the Makalu. The summit ridge was quite a narrow place to be on, because when I looked down, I saw a huge fall in front of me forming a bowl like shape with the ridge couple of hundred meters in the front. I was afraid of sliding down and flying hundreds of meters. I didn't get much close that side.

  To reach the summit point I had to climb maybe some 5-6 meters more on the ridge towards my left. There I reached under that last rock pinnacle. To make sure that I was on the summit I leaned on my hands and moved myself up on this maybe 3-meter pinnacle and looked behind it. It was going down and there were no more higher places after that point. At that time I was sure that other then Everest itself there was no place around me higher then where I was. It was 18:30. The last 70 meters took me almost two hours to climb. I stood at the summit 3-4 minutes and started to go down before the sunlight goes away. The 20-meter rock face was the hardest, however I managed to get down with a few small slides, luckily not a serious problem. I just had little bit frostnips on my hands as I still had no gloves and had to hold myself tight to not slide down from the rock. When I got back to my crampons and gloves, I quickly put them on. Crampons were the hardest with frostnips. Anyway, when I got to my rucksack it was dark so I took out my head torch and start going down. Very tired, but happy.

  I even had no photo from that point of 8450 meters where all six of us have reached. When I was going up, I had nothing in my mind but the summit. I even didn't want to lose time for a photo. When I got back from the summit, there were no more daylight for taking a photo.

  With all left in my body I kept going down. Although I climbed 2 hours more and another half our to get back to my rucksack, I caught Ilgvars just below the Lhotse couloir. He told me that when he was going down he dropped his head torch and had to wait for me more then an hour. We kept going with my light.

  At the junction point of Lhotse and Everest, we caught Andy. I am quite surprised that they were still on the route, I thought they should be in camp 3 by then. Anyway, I was absolutely finished from that long and oxygenless ascent, but still in better shape then Andy and Ilgvars. When we got to Yellow Band, I was in front and waiting for them to come. Ilgvars and Andy were together, Ilgvars shouted at me and called me up where they were. This was a terrible thing to do in such a situation. He was asking me to climb some 50 meters and help them. It took me a long time to go up a little bit, where they finally started to come down. Ilgvars what was going on. He told me that Andy was very bad and nearly dying. He asked me to carry an oxygen bottle. I didn't know whose bottle was that. Ilgvars have left his rucksack somewhere higher, so he didn't have a place to carry that bottle. Andy was not in a situation to carry anything down. So I took the bottle and brought it back to camp 3. Eventually, at 00:25 I reached camp 3 after 25 hours of nonstop, no oxygen ascent and descent at that attitude. Andy and Ilgvars arrived camp 3 some 25 minutes later then me.

  This was the story of my summit. However my teammates for some reason never wanted to believe that I reached the summit. Especially Andy had some personal problems with me. I heard his quite negative ides about me from other people on our expedition. Ilgvars says that he did not see my foot prints after 8450 m. It is such a ridiculous thing to look for my trail on the colouar, where I had never been. I explained them maybe ten times about my route, but it seems like they do not want to admit it. Probably it comes a bit hard for them to accept that a climber reached the summit without oxygen where they couldn't even with oxygen on the same day.

  One more thing is, when we got to C2, before asking me a single question or listening my story, Andy told me that, he does not believe that I reached the summit. And he kept his biased idealogy about me all the way.

  Dear Miss Hawlay, this is what happened on Lhotse, I hope it will be enough for you. If not please let me know. I don't care about them, but I want your opinion it is important for me. I hope to see you back in Kathmandu.

  Sincerely,
  Nasuh


  Dear Miss Hawley,

  I received both your letter of last December and the new fax. Your point of view is important for me. Thank you, very much for your attitude. I appreciate your interest about this unpleasant situation.

  I assume that you are aware of the article on the mountain information pages of the High Magazine December issue. Andy Lapkass, for some reason states that, I was 200 meters short of the summit. At least we all know that all six of us from our summit team were as close as 70 meters to the summit. Starting from that point of view. I believe, the argument should anyway start for the last 70 meters. However, by saying some 200 meters, Andy Lapkass, believes, he will be more credible and I will have no chance at all.

  Anyway, I already wrote to the editor of High Magazine, (Lindsay Griffin) about this situation. If there is anything you can suggest me to do for solving this problem, I would love to try that.

  After Greg Child, this is my second argument with a known climber. I managed to solve the first one after a one argument with the editors of Outside magazine, at the moment, my article near Greg Childs, is also available on their web page. I believe some how I will sort this out as well, because I am telling the truth.

  I guess our rather small community has got so much psychological weaknesses, although I definitely dislike, I started getting used to it.

  Dear Miss Hawley, I would like to thank you very much again for your time. For this year my climbing schedule is still unclear, but I hope we'll meet in Kathmandu again.

  Sincere yours,
  Nasuh


expid: LHOT98101
peakid: LHOT
year: 1998
route1: W Face Couloir
nation: Spain
leaders: Inaki Ochoa
sponsor: Independent climber on Lhotse
bcdate: 1998-03-30
smtdate: 1998-05-17
termnote: Abandoned at 8485m due to frozen corneas
campsites: BC(30/03),C2(07/04,6500m),C3(23/04,7400m),xxx(17/05,8485m)
accidents: Ochoa slightly frostbitten toes and frozen corneas of his eyes
agency: Sea to Summit Trekking
routememo:
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on West Face
  xxx at only 30m below summit.

  24 April down to BC because of heavy snowfall. Wanted to do a 8000er in 24 hours BC to top, so when fit now, left BC on 30th April at 9:00 am and just kept going all day and all night with brief stops in C2 and C3. Left C3 11:00 pm 1 May and reached  nearly 8000m at 3:00 pm at rock called the turtle and turned back because of wind slab avalanche danger. Again on 7th May left C3 at 10:00 pm and reached nearly same altitude but by slightly different line and at 2:30 am snowing hard and could see nothing, so down to Pheriche to rest. Then a week of high winds. 16 May 10:00 left BC and up from C2 at 7:00 pm and arrived C3 at 9:45 pm and up again 10:15 pm with big work making track again - very cold (-35 degrees C) and by 5:00 am realized corneas frozen and not seeing clearly (had occasionally removed goggles to see) and had only peripheral vision. 10:00 am could see was very near left hard peak (the higher one), probably 30m from summit and felt not safe now, things not under control, so started down, met Andre Georges but said nothing about blindness, hoping Georges would return from top very soon but didn't wait for Georges. "Kind of difficult" descent without vision. Reached C3 about 2:00 pm and from here Todd expedition members below C3 helped very much and Hoffman expedition's Praquak came up from C2 to bergschrund. In C2 Singaporeans looked after him. Fast climbing up and down is safest kind of climbing. This Lhotse climb was "good effort."


expid: EVER98102
peakid: EVER
year: 1998
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Bolivia
leaders: Bernardo Guarachi
sponsor: Independent climber on Todd's Everest permit
ascent1: 295
bcdate: 1998-03-24
smtdate: 1998-05-25
smttime: 0555
termdate: 1998-05-26
campsites: BC(24/03),C2(16/04,6500m),C3(17/05,7400m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(25/05)
achievment: 1st Bolivian and 1st American Indian on top
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  19 May tried for top and reached South Summit and down to C2 same day. 23rd from BC to C2; 24 May arrived South Col; 24th left col 9:30 pm, on South Summit 25th 4:00 am and 5:55 am on top and for one hour; to C4 10:30 am slightly before Malaysians and then to BC (waited 2 hours at icefall top for Icefall to freeze) and at BC 7:40 pm, not tired. "I was very good (strong), 2nd time" and "very happy" - wants K-2 next in 2001, McKinley in 1999.

  (In autumn 94 Bernard reached 8300m on north side and then wind defeated his effort).


expid: LHOT98103
peakid: LHOT
year: 1998
route1: W Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Andre Georges
sponsor: Swiss Lhotse - Spring 1998
ascent1: 45th
bcdate: 1998-04-19
smtdate: 1998-05-17
smttime: 1130
termdate: 1998-05-19
campsites: BC(19/04,5350m),C2(27/04,6500m),C3.Ochoa(06/05,7400m),Smt(17/05)
accidents: Berclaz slight frostbite
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  C2 at Western Cwm.

  1st summit bid at 7:00 pm 6 May on beautiful day but not enough strength and turned back at C3 (7400m) at 2:00 am; Georges and Sierro slept at C3 in Ochoa's tent while Berclaz back to Cwm. 

  Then one week of strong wind and one tent at Cwm broken by wind. Left BC 16th from C2 at 6:30 pm, all 3 members up for summit. Sierro slightly sick so quickly retreated and down to BC. Berclaz toes freezing and turned back at yellow band at 7700m. Ochoa (Spaniard) made route and Georges came after him until he slowed down because of serious eye problem and Georges continued to top of right summit in beautiful, clear weather at 11:30 am and slept in C2.


expid: EVER98112
peakid: EVER
year: 1998
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Iran
leaders: Sadegh Aghajani Kalkhoran
sponsor: Islamic Republic of Iran Everest and Lhotse Expedition
ascent1: 285
bcdate: 1998-04-06
smtdate: 1998-05-20
smttime: 0945
termdate: 1998-05-26
othersmts: Lhotse (permit, but not attempted)
campsites: BC(06/04,5350m),C1(17/04,6100m),C2(22/04,6500m),C3(30/04,7300m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(20/05)
accidents: One member slight altitude sickness
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 at South Col.

  19 May first summit attempt reached Col after South Summit at 10:00 am (had left Col at 1:00 am) because strong wind which destroyed 10 tents at C2: were Cheshmeh Ghasabani, Naghavi, Najarian, Olanj, Oraz with 4 Sherpas (2 Sherpas left just before South Summit) in jam of so many people at South Summit together; "traffic jam" was factor also although this party passed all others in "jam"; down to South Col for that night. 

  On 20 May at 2:00 am up again: Cheshmeh Ghasabani, Najarian, Olanj, Oraz and 3 Sherpas and were on top at 9:45 am, at Col at about 2:00 pm and C2 at about 7:00 pm. Now no more Everest summit attempts. Iman Gurung had been on Everest attempt of 19th but not strong enough for 2nd attempt next day. 

  Lhotse: Aflaki and Alinejad on 5 May went to South Col to observe route from there to Lhotse summit and take pictures but did not sleep at col. Neither they nor any others tried to reach summit.

  Sherpas: 
    Dawa Tenzi: 34, Kharikhola, Everest once before
    Chuldin, Khumjung, 30, 1st 8000er
    Pemba Rinzi: 21, Kharikhola, 1st 8000er (claims Everest summit in spring '97
       with Malayasians film team, but team's agency says none went to top)       


  BC - Nepal - Mountaineering
  First Iranians atop Everest
  By Elizabeth Hawley

  Kathmandu, May 20 (Reuters) - The first Iranian mountaineers to scale Mt Everest successfully stood at the highest point on earth at 9:45 am. (Nepal time) today, the Nepalese tourism ministry announced today.
     The ten-member expedition, led by president of the Islamic Republic of Iran Mountaineering Federation Sadegh Aghajani Kalkharan, sent four Iranians and two Nepalese Sherpas to the 8848 meters-high (29,028 foot) summit of Mt Everest.
     The summit party had left their highest camp at 7900 meters (25,900 ft) on the Nepalese (southern) side of Everest at 2:00 am today, according to the ministry, reached the top at 9:45 am and stayed at the top of the world for 20 minutes.
     The successful Iranians were, the ministry said:
      - Hamid Reza Olany, 28, laboratory technician from Hamedan,
      - Mohammad Oraz, 28, University student from Naghadeh,
      - Jalal Cheshmeh Ghasabani, 38, technician from Hameda.
     The Nepalese who went to the summit with them were Chhuldim Sherpa and Da Tenji Sherpa.
     This expedition were the first Iranians ever to attempt to scale Everest. A reconnaissance team from Iran joined a Chinese party in the spring of 1978 to prepare for an assent in the following year from the Tibetan side of Everest, and they reconnoitered the northern route to an altitude of about 7800 meters (25,600 ft). The revolution of 1979 led to the cancellation of the actual assault planned for 1979.
     However the first Iranian-born climber to reach Everest's summit was a naturalized American citizen, Hooman Aprin from Jackson, Wyoming followed by today's Iranian citizens and gained the summit on 5 Oct, 1990.


expid: DHA198102
peakid: DHA1
year: 1998
route1: NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Chantal Manduit
sponsor: Sunflower Expedition to Dhaulagiri I
bcdate: 1998-04-08
smtdate: 1998-04-22
termnote: Abandoned due to fatal accident
campsites: BC(08/04,4700m),C1(14/04,5700m),C2(16/04,6550m),C3(22/04,7000m),xxx(22,29/04,7000m)
accidents: Death of Chantal and Sherpa on 11?? May - suffocation? broken neck?
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  CI at North East Col
  high point at C3.

  Letter from Jean-Michel Asselin - 17 June 1998
  Chantal Mauduit's death

  I discussed with her family. For them, there are absolutely no doubts: she was killed by an avalanche. Her cervical vertebrae were broken, probably by the weight of the snow. An avalanche jumped over a rock band, and partially crashed on the tent killing Ang Tsering and Chantal on the spot. The story of an intoxication by gas from the stove is totally rejected by the family.


  Letter by Jean-Michel Asselin.

  Tried for summit push from C3 about 29-30 April but not above C3 because of wind and snow; next time she went up was when she arrived at C2 with Ang Tshering and nothing more known. On 13 May C2 tent opened by Roju using knife but only small cut in tent and did not see bodies; tent had been crushed by snow, maybe by avalanche (small slabs), but cause of death maybe from faulty gas stove - two people sleeping suggests stove and not avalanche and its pressure. Was bad weather period and only Chantal and Ang Tshering went up at this time; all others stayed in BC. Avalanche not cause but constant snow sent snow moving down gently. Italians dug for an hour to make possible to really open tent from snow piled up against its side and then found bodies on 16th - not known whether she went above C2 again.


  Notes regarding deaths of Chantal Mauduit and Ang Tshering Sherpa:

  Guy Cotter and Ed Viesturs of New Zealand-US-Finnish Dhaulagiri expedition, 20 May 98: 

  "We've rescued Chantal enough times [in previous seasons on other mountains] that we thought she was going to get away with it this time too." She was "naively casual" and "didn't know when to call quits," but this wasn't the reason for their deaths. Were they lazy about digging their tent out from under snow piling up? Careless about their gas stove? Did lightning strike them? (Her C3 at 7000m was at an "unbelievable site on exposed rock").


  Jose Carlos Tamayo of Spanish (San Sebastian) expedition, 21 May 98 

  On 26 April, Tamayo was nearly buried in C2 by all night snowfall. Snow remains there because terrain not steep. Perhaps they suffocated from snowfall piling up.

  Sherpas who brought bodies of Mauduit and Ang Tshering by helicopter to Kathmandu, 26 May 98. Tent was buried under one meter of snow and they had to dig it out. Cause of death was an avalanche. (This depth of snow and fact of a sizeable avalanche are discounted by other teams there.) [Mauduit's body taken to France for cremation].


  Tone Skarja, leader of Slovenian Dhaulagiri expedition, 4 June 98 

  Their deaths probably caused by gas stove. On 9-10 May it was snowing all the time, and most of the tents at C2 were covered by new snowfall. They probably died on 11-12 May.


  Franco Brunello and Tarcisio Bello of Italian Dhaulagiri expedition - 5 June 98

  Brunello was last person from any other team to speak with Mauduit: on 7 May he was in C2 on a windy, snowy day and saw her and her Sherpa arrive at camp at 4:00 pm. Her tent was 50 meters above the Italians tent, and as she went by he warned her above crevasses above his tent. Snow fell all that night and it was windy; on the 8th it was very windy and he and teammate Celestino Toldo went down to base camp. For the next day there was bad weather. On 14 May Brunello went again to C2 and went to Mauduit's tent, which was covered by snow except for one end. He opened the zipper of her tent to see what was inside; he found two unopened bags of Greek food (there was a Greek team on the mountain also) which he took out, and then he saw a sleeping bag. Next day Toldo went to her tent with a shovel and shovelled snow off of it; he too opened zipper and saw two sleeping bags with bodies inside them. Mauduit expression was peaceful but her jaw appeared to have been broken by a piece of ice outside the tent; snow was pressing against the tent. Brunello thinks a piece of ice striking her head from outside the tent must have killed her "in a moment." It is not clear to him why Ang Tshering died, but the Sherpa probably suffocated. Gas would not have been a factor, because the type of gas they were using does not come out of its container without fire under it, and there was no sign of fire having burned anything in the tent.


expid: EVER98101
peakid: EVER
year: 1998
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Denmark
leaders: Michael Strynoe
sponsor: Independent climber on Everest
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 1998-02-11
smtdate: 1998-05-19
termdate: 1998-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to frostbitten toes
campsites: BC(11/02),C1(12/03,6100m),C2(16/03,6500m),C3(06/05,7400),C4(18/05,7900m),xxx(19/05,8300m)
accidents: Fell about 60m just before reaching C4 and toes of right foot slightly frostbitten
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  C2 at West Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Went 26 times through Icefall carrying all his own loads. 18 May 10:15 pm started up for summit, after only a Sherpa from another team who moved extremely fast; stopped at 8300m; after 1 hour feet cold and finally at 2:30 am right foot "dead" for 2 hours and down to South Col and warmed feet. Now "some black nails" but will recover. 19th to C2, 20th to BC and climb finished because toes.


expid: EVER98130
peakid: EVER
year: 1998
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Norbert Joos
sponsor: Swiss Everest Lhotse Expedition
bcdate: 1998-04-19
smtdate: 1998-05-19
termdate: 1998-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 8200m due to reports of bad weather coming and no more motivation
othersmts: Attempted Lhotse (LHOT-981-04)
accidents: Nothing
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
primid: LHOT98104
campsites:
  BC(19/04),C2(24/04,6500m),C3(05/05,7400m),C4(18/05,7900m),xxx.Everest(19/05,8200m),xxx.Lhotse(19/05,8400m)

routememo:
  On Everest summit attempt from C2 direct to South Col on 18 May and left Col for top at midnight but turned back at 8200m on 19 May with strong wind and not feeling strong: Joos and Marugg were in this team; down to BC.

  Rizzi on 19 May up for Lhotse from C3 on 20th but too slow and stopped at 8400m at 12 hours climbing: probably too difficult for him without partners and became very tired. Then reports of bad weather made team decide to abandon climb.

  High point on Lhotse by Rizzi was 8400m.


expid: EVER98109
peakid: EVER
year: 1998
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Henry Todd
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Everest Expedition
ascent1: 302
countries: Australia, Canada, Mexico
bcdate: 1998-04-04
smtdate: 1998-05-26
smttime: 0730
termdate: 1998-05-29
campsites: BC(04/04,5400m),C1(08/04,6000m),C2(10/04,6400m),C3(22/04,7350m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(26/05)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 at South Col.

  1st summit bid on 19 May by Laughton, Crosthwaite, Silva and Wheelock and 4 Sherpas got no higher than South Summit in big pile up of climbers because rope not yet fixed beyond South Summit, so all down to South Col. 

  Laughton, and Silva down to BC 22nd for a night, then back up again, arrived at South Col on 25th; left Col at 9:30 pm and on top (using Hoffman expedition rope) at 7:30 am on 26th with Grylls, Sherpas Pasang Dawa and Pasang Tsering in only ascent of that day from Nepal side; back to Col at 11:30 am and down to C2 on 11th BC on 28th.

  On 19th descent Crosthwaite fell and pulled Pasang Dawa with him; was just below balcony: fell 200m and stopped by soft snow on more level terrain and very shaken but not hurt despite tumbling. 

  Pile up of 19th: people arriving at South Summit from about 9:00 am and all stopped there although attempts were being made by some members and Sherpas to move on but no rope produced to further the route despite fact that it had been promised by Berg and despite Silva's report that there was some rope there enough to get to top of Hillary Step. It was found at top of Step on 20th that sufficient old ropes could be pulled out of snow to forward route to summit. There was inertia amongst people in the pile up and Todd cannot explain why it apparently paralyzed everyone (except Laughton whose oxygen running out). This debacle was very costly to Todd who had to find more supplies and regroup his people and to Singapore team who told Todd it cost them heavily also. Todd's weather forecasting service about 21st May warned that cyclone was approaching and Todd announced he would be closing Icefall if actual arrival of cyclone in Nepal was imminent; would be given 2 days warning - no such warning issued (cyclone turned southeast) and Icefall not closed (report Todd brought oxygen down from C4 not correct).

  Sherpas: 
    Pasang Dawa (Pa Dawa), Pangboche, 22 yrs old, 1st 8000er 
    Pasang Tshering, Pangboche, 22 years, Cho Oyu 27/9/98

accidents:
  Viral infection turned back 2 members and Sherpas; Laughton 2 frostbitten toes; Crosthwaite fell but not hurt


expid: EVER98111
peakid: EVER
year: 1998
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Sweden
leaders: Thomas Sjogren
sponsor: Swedish Everest Expedition
bcdate: 1998-04-05
smtdate: 1998-05-19
termdate: 1998-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 8748m due to wind, unfixed route and probable lack of strength to try again very soon
campsites: BC(05/04,5350m),C1(15/04,6100m),C2(17/04,6400m),C3(17/05,7300m),C4(18/05,7900m),xxx(19/05,8748m)
accidents: Nothing serious (only viral infection temporarily after BC arrival)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 at South Col
  High point at South Summit.

  Left C4 at 11:50 pm of 18th with Ang Babu and Dawa. Reached South Summit 8:30 am in beautiful weather but 2 other expeditions (Berg and Whittaker) who had said they would bring and fix ropes didn't do so, turned down saying it was too windy, so decided they also must turn back (wind not very strong actually). Seemed other climbers were satisfied to get down. 20th, 21st to BC. 

  Would have needed 7 days rest at least before another bid and didn't enough time. Will come again next year, have more Sherpas and fix rope above C4 below balcony.

  Sherpas: 
    Ang Babu (Babu Chiri - Everest X7) 
    Dawa (his brother)


expid: EVER98108
peakid: EVER
year: 1998
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Tom Whittaker
sponsor: Ester-C Everest Challenge
ascent1: 284,304
countries: Argentina, UK
bcdate: 1998-04-03
smtdate: 1998-05-20
smttime: 0900
termdate: 1998-05-29
accidents: Heinrich fell; Whittaker throat infection
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
campsites:
  BC(03/04),C1(12/04,5945m),C2.Sherpas(14/04,6490m),C2(17/04,7160m),C3(25/04),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(20,27/05)

routememo:
  C1 at lower C1 just at top of Icefall
  C2 at West Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face (lower C3 site).

  18th May midnight party set out for top: Hawse, Heinrich, Richards and Sherpas Tashi Tshering, Lhakpa Tshering and Dawa Sona. That day, 19th 53 people reach "balcony" and 49 went to South Summit. This party reached South Summit 9:30 am after waiting 2 hours above balcony for rope to be fixed above. Whittaker was not in this party because he was sick (bronchitis) and went to Pheriche for one day but was strong pressure to get some people to top and fearful of cyclone coming which might dump great quantities of snow on mountain and stop climbing. Henry Todd saying he was going close to Icefall and pull out all ladders; he didn't, but he did bring his oxygen down from C4. This team paid Todd $2000 to open Icefall and maintain it. Turned around at South Summit in strong wind and ropes not fixed. Richards and Hawse back to Col 12:30 and Heinrich fell 150m (200m short of Col) and bruised himself: got to Col 4:00 pm. 

  16th J Rhoads and Whittaker BC to C3: 19th left C2 4:30 am arrived any at Col at 3:00 pm, left Col at 11:30 pm to go to top; Sherpas Tashi Tshering, Pemba Temba, Norbu Sherpa. Whittaker lost crampon twice, flex foot broke up in extreme temperature and Sherman Bull of Hoffman's team fell 50m into crevasse just on edge of Lhotse Face. Whittaker had rope which used to help Bull onto moderate terrain - then started up again but Whittaker's stump very cold and he had been "rattled" by Bull's fall and out of steam after another 1-1/2 hours decided at just before 4:00 am at 8300m to turn back and was in C4 by 5:30 am. "I thought that I'd blown it" with storm coming in and would not have another chance - also having trouble breathing and coughing bubbly stuff; took drugs for pulmonary edema and recovered later (hadn't been to altitude for 23 days). But came down to C2 on 20th was given examination and declared free of my lung problem but dehydrated and exhausted. 

  Jeffery Rhoads and Tashi Tshering continued and summited and arrived there at 9:00 am on 20 May.

  Hawse, et al, encouraged him to go again for top but Sherpas refused to go up with him till he came down to BC and confer; Sherpas fearful Whittaker would die on them. Whittaker to BC on 22nd with late afternoon and scary descent through Icefall, doctors did not examine him but did not say he shouldn't go up. 4 Sherpas then volunteered to go up with Whittaker, J Rhoads and Tashi Tshering (Pangboche), Norbu, Lhakpa Tshering and Dawa Sona; members and on 24th to C2. 25th members to C4 and Sherpas BC to C2. 26th everybody reached C4, members arriving at noon; 26th left Col 10:00 pm, at South Summit at 5:30 and made summit at 6:30 am. "I wore myself out I'll tell you - that was a big week for me." Travelled together and got to top pretty much together: Whittaker had one bottle on his back, Rhoads carried 2 bottles Sherpas had 3 extra bottles for Whittaker and 1 for Rhoads. Sherpas made trail in deep snow. Back to Col in 5-1/2 hours in dangerous snow conditions (avalanche danger with fresh unconsolidated snow now on mountain). Back at noon at C4, left at 2:30 pm and down to C2: members used oxygen to C2 by Whittaker and Rhoads to below C3 (oxygen ran out). Rhoads crampon came off and he fell 5 ft but was clipped into rope (had fall also on 20th) in his own summit success with Tashi Tshering.

  "Very satisfying, had very competent sirdar, very strong Sherpa team. We had minimum number of Sherpas to do the job had to be done and experienced members. "I worked hard, I pushed, managed to overcome problems. Rhoads said other team members sacrificed chances for top to make Whittaker's ascent. When I summited we were using up our resources and scrounged them from other teams at Col (paid Berg $5000 for tents, oxygen, etc).

  Whittakers will spend life as usual in mountains but no 8000ers.

  * 1st person to climb to Everest summit in same season was Babu Tshering
    on 14 and 26/5/95 (via North Col with oxygen)- Rhoads and Tashi 
    Tshering did so in shorter time

  ** Tashi Tshering (Pangboche) top Everest 4 times before 
     Norbu (Beding) 4 times before
     Lhakpa Tshering (Khunde) 2 time before 
     Dawa Sona (Pangboche)


  Nepal Mountaineering 
  One-legged Man Scales Everest
  By Elizabeth Hawley

  Kathmandu, May 27(Reuters) - A man with one artificial leg reached the summit of Mount Everest today, Nepal tourism's ministry announced.
     Tom Whittaker, a 49-year-old British born American citizen who is an in instructor in outdoor pursuits living in Prescott, Arizona, climbed to the highest point on earth, 8848 meters above sea level, this morning at seven o' clock the ministry reported.
     Whittaker lost his right kneecap and foot in a motorcar accident and wears a prothesis that fits on his leg below the knee.
     He told Reuters in March that he was determined to be the first disabled person to summit Everest and show what the disabled can accomplish.
     He said that it takes him 30-35% more energy to climb mountains because of his disability.
     He scaled Everest by the standard Nepalese route via the southeast ridge through last night. He had left his highest camp at 7900 meters at 11 pm.
     Four Nepalese Sherpas accompanied him to the summit. They were Lhakpa Tsering, Da Sonam, Tashi Tshering and Norbu, the ministry said. They stayed at the top of the world's for 20 minutes.
     He told Reuters he would be using artificial oxygen during the last two days of his final push for the top.
     This was his second bid to reach the summit this month. On May 20, he climbed as high as 8230 meters (27,000 feet) before having to turn back because of a pulmonary infection.
     He had also attempted Everest in the spring of 1995 from the Tibetan side of the mountain. That time he got no higher than 8230 meters without artificial oxygen, and 50 meters (165 feet).

achievment:
  1st one legged man to Everest summit; 1st non-Sherpa to top in same season; 1st summiter to report only 8 days after an ascent


expid: EVER98103
peakid: EVER
year: 1998
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Singapore
leaders: David Lim
sponsor: First Singapore Everest Expedition
ascent1: 296
countries: Malaysia, UK
bcdate: 1998-03-25
smtdate: 1998-05-25
smttime: 0600
termdate: 1998-05-29
campsites: BC(25/03,5350m),C1(07/04,6050m),C2(16/04,6400m),C3(30/04,7200m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(25/05)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Chomalhari Trekking
routememo:
  C2 at West Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  18th night left C4 for top; Maarof, Lean, Goh, Khoo, Siew, Kami Rita, Ang Dorje, Lhakpa Tshering, Fura Dorje, Man Bahadur Tamang, [Nawang?] Phurba and Dawa Tshering all reached South Summit at 8:45 am, waited till 10:30 am for ropes to be fixed above South Summit and none fixed, so back to C4 to sleep. 

  Next summit party of six left C4 24th night and got to top at 5:58 am. On 25th and down to C2 to sleep.

  Sherpas: 
     Kami Rita, 28, Thami, Everest X2
     Dorje, Taksindu/Nunthala, Solu, 31, Everest X2
     Fura Dorje, Sotang, Solu, 32, Everest X1


  Singaporean Mountaineers Scale Everest
  By Elizabeth Hawley

  Kathmandu, May 25 (Reuters) - The first Singaporean expedition to Mount Everest succeeded in sending two of its members to the highest point on earth this morning, the Nepalese tourism announced today.
     The successful summiters were Singapore residents Swee Chiow Khoo, 33-year-old airline systems analyst for an airline, and Cheok Wai Edwin Siew, 28, outdoors activities instructor. (Khoo and Siew are their family names).
     Both are Malaysian citizens. Only two other Malayasians have ever been to the 8848 meters high (28,028 ft) summit of Everest before them. (No Singapore citizen has yet summited Everest.)
     The ministry reported that the summit pair left their highest camp at 7900 meters (26,000 ft) at 9:30 last night, climbed through the night and reached the top of the world at 6:00 am today. They stayed on the summit for an hour and then descended to the last camp, where they arrived at noon today. Their climbing route was the standard one via the southeast ridge.
     Their agent in Kathmandu understands that no one else on their team will try to reach the summit, and they will arrive back in Kathmandu on 31 May or in the very firsts days of June.
     The leader of the eight-member expedition is David Lim, 33, a multimedia marketing executive who is also Malaysian.


expid: EVER98128
peakid: EVER
year: 1998
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Robert Hoffman
sponsor: Everest 1998 Environmental Expedition
ascent1: 283
countries: Canada
bcdate: 1998-04-17
smtdate: 1998-05-20
smttime: 0840
termdate: 1998-05-25
campsites: BC(17/04),C1(23/04,6100m),C2(25/04,6700m),C3(29/04,7315m),C4(19/05,7900m),Smt(20/05)
accidents: 1 member fell ill with bad hemorrhoids
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  C2 at West Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Summit party left 11:30 pm of 19th May and first group got to South Summit 6:09 am in beautiful clear weather and last at 10:45 am. Returned to C4 2:30 pm to 5:00 pm, all in good condition. Sherman Bull had left C4 at 11:30 pm 19th and at 1:30 am fell from 27,200 ft towards top of gully and fell about 200m down towards South col on downhill side of small crevasse; 2 broken ribs, multiple bruises and badly shaken up; helicoptered out from BC on 25 May. Huss fell at rock band above gully and got to C4 by himself not badly hurt; had reached 100m below the balcony (at about 8500m). 3 more at South Col: Morrison sick: Boice who went up to base of gully and volunteered to go down to Col with Bull: Manley stopped ascent at 5:30 am, oxygen ran out and had problems.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Apa         (Thami) - Ever X8 times before
    Arita       (Thami) - Ever X1
    Ang Pasang  (Thami) - 30 years, his 1st 8000er
    Chuldin     (Phute) - 30 years
    Gyalzen     (Phute) - 45 years, his 1st 8000er
    Nima Rita   (Thami) - Ever X3 times before
    Pemba Norbu (Namche) - Cho Oyu 28/4/97


expid: CHOY98110
peakid: CHOY
year: 1998
route1: NW side from N
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Rene de Bos, Robert Steenmeijer
sponsor: Telfort Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 289,292,297-299
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1998-04-29
smtdate: 1998-05-20
termdate: 1998-06-05
accidents: Nooy pulmonary edema and left 18-19/5; (other members drifted off as wished)
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(29/04,4800m),Intermed(02/05,5200m),ABC(03/05,5400m),C1(06/05,6000m),Deposit(6400m),C2(13/05,6750m),C3(19/05,7100m),C4(27/05,7400m),Smt(20,22,29,31/05,01/06)

routememo:
  ABC 1 hour below most others' camp.

  1st summit bid on 20th May from C3 by Staartjes-Koomen, de Bos, Wesker, Dingemans, Nawang Chambi and Kanchen Dawa Sherpa; left C3 at 2:00 am but only Staartjes-Koomen and Nawang reached top where they saw Everest; others turned back at 7800-7900m except De Bos, at 7700-7800m, fearing they were too slow and would summit too late (also tired). Summiters returned to C3 at 4:00 pm.

  Next summit bid on 22nd from C3 at 2:00 am were Van der Meulen of Dutch Xixa, de Jong, Terwee, Van Dijk, Van Hout and Sherpas Ang Jangbu and Chewang Rinzen; Van Dijk turned back at 7500m tired and Van Hout to 7900m tired; on top at 10:00 am and in C3 1:15 pm. 

  Next attempt tired and too slow and down to deposit camp at 6400m to sleep.

  29th Smets and Van Berlo without Sherpas up from C4 at 2:15 am, Van Berlo to 7500m (very tired) Smets at top 11:30 am (saw Everest) and down to C3. 

  30th from C4 Koning, Dingemans without Sherpas at 3:00 am and turned back because of much new snow at 7500m; Dingemans stayed in C4 and Koning to ABC.

  31st de Bos, Dingemans, Wesker (Wesker from C3) plus Kanchen Dawa and Ang Zangbu (Nawang Chokleg); on top Dingemans at 10:45 am: Ang Zangbu at 10:15 am, de Bos to 7500m very cold and turned back and Kanchen Dawa with him, Wesker back from 7700m also cold and down to ABC (17 hours from C3 to 7700m to ABC). 

  1st June Bergevoet & Robert Steenmeijer left C4 at 5:00 am and on top only Bergevoet at 11:30 am while Steenmeijer back from 8050m tired and too slow; both slept in C3; no Sherpas with them.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Nawang Chumbi, Khumjung, 9/12/66, his 1st 8000er
    Chhong Ringe (Chewang Rinsen), 5/3/64, Rolwaling, summited Cho Oyu Oct 1994
    Nawang Chokleg (Ang Zangbu), 1958, Thami, summited Cho Oyu May 1996

  * A member of Dutch Xixabangma expedition, Hans Van der Meulen, unexpectedly turned up at ABC, "paid us some money," and climbed to top on 22 May with 2 members and Sherpa from this expedition. He arrived at ABC on 17 May, went to C2 on 19th, to C2 on 20th, C2 on 21st and summit on 22nd. His biodata given on page 2 of this expedition's members list.


expid: CHOY98112
peakid: CHOY
year: 1998
route1: NW side from N (direct line up)
nation: Germany
leaders: Andreas Poppe, Gerald Roesner
sponsor: Independent team on Italian (Della Santa) permit
ascent1: 283
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1998-05-01
smtdate: 1998-05-12
smttime: 1200
termdate: 1998-05-24
campsites: BC(01/05),Intermed.ABC(02/05,5100m),ABC(03/05,5650m),C1(08/05,6350m),C2(11/05,7100m),Smt(12/05)
accidents: Roesner fatal fall; Poppe slipped in descent from top and hurt his eye with goggles
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  12 May 3:30 am (Chinese time) left C2 together and alone (no other team sent people to top that day). Poppe on top 12:00 noon and Roesner 12:30 pm. Poppe stayed 1 hour enjoying view of Everest (waited half hour for Roesner). Roesner stayed longer but Poppe had bad headache (not well acclimatized) and went down slowly and in C2 9:30 pm. Roesner not in tent as Poppe had expected since Roesner well acclimatized and should have descended faster. Poppe never saw Roesner again but OTT team member saw his headlamp falling +:00 am on 13th and went to body.

  28 May 98 - Prax saw a body falling (not lamp) falling just past C3 direct route - saw spendrift and then realized body falling 2 meters from him, hit rocks and continuing on down 100m below his C3 to about 7400m. Pearson went to body while going up by moonlight and saw silhoutte of person; found him in one piece very dead. Others in that area on 19th and 20th could not find him, knew Roesner was missing and assumed was Roesner: DAV took pix which identified him. Both Germans were very tired when they reached C2 but still continued up - were showing signs of altitude effect: not moving well.

  28 May 98 - Robert Rackl, leader of Amical German expedition: Poppe and Roesner were inexperienced climbers, had no organization, were picked up as clients by German company of bad reputation run by Hans Eitel - were not at all acclimatized when went high on Cho Oyu, had rushed to high altitude too soon - maybe were taking pep pills.


expid: DHA198103
peakid: DHA1
year: 1998
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Juanito Oiarzabal
sponsor: Basque Dhaulagiri & Annapurna Expedition
ascent1: 96th w/Inur
bcdate: 1998-04-10
smtdate: 1998-05-22
smttime: 1000
termdate: 1998-05-26
campsites: BC(10/04,4700m),C1(14/04,5800m),C2(18/04,6600m),C3(01/05,7200m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at NE Col.

  1st attempt 2 May by Juanito with Bereziartua and Vallezo of other Basque team to an aluminum pole which is not on top, but is 50m below it, here many people consider it at top and go back from here. Here ridge is very sharp and difficult to go higher and to get to true top one must traverse at about 8100m across North Face to point slightly beyond true summit and back on ridge to top. When reaching pole and peak slightly above, one can see more peaks and true top beyond. So down on 2 May to C3 and next day to BC. 

  Tried again on 13 May all Juanito's members and San Sebastian's Inurrategi brothers, Lazkano and San Sebastian BC to C1 and brothers and Juanito's 4 to C2 that day. 14th 5 men to C3 (Rojo not). 15th waited in C3 because wind. 16th leave C3 for top but at 7400m because snow looked like slabs and dangerous and some members had stomach problems so down to BC same day. 

  20th Inurrategi brothers and Juanito BC to C2. 21st to C4, 22nd to top from C3 at 2:00 am and on top 10:00 am and down to C2 at 5:00 pm. This time made proper traverse to true summit. This route not difficult most of its length: only problem is traverse where snow slabs are dangerous and there is small couloir up to ridge.


  BC-Nepal-Mountaineering
  Basque climbers make personal history on Dhaulagiri I
  By Elizabeth Hawley

  Kathmandu, May 24 (Reuters) - Three Spanish Basque mountaineers reached the summit of the world's seventh highest mountain on May 22, Nepal's tourism ministry announced today, and came closer in their efforts to join the ranks of the very few men who have successfully scaled all of the world's 14 mountains that tower more than 8000 meters (26,260 ft) above sea level.
     The successful Basques were a pair of brothers who always climb 8000 meter mountains together and have now, with their "conquest" two days ago of Mt. Dhaulagiri I (Mt. Dhaulagiri one), been to the summits of nine of them.
     The brothers are professional climbers Felix and Alberto Inurrategi from Aretxabaleta, Gipuzkoa, aged 31 and 29, respectively. They have now scaled the world's seven highest mountains, all in or on the borders of Nepal, plus one peak in Tibet, Xixabangma (Shisapangma), and one in Pakistan known as Broad Peak.
     The third Basque who succeeded two days ago on Dhaulagiri I, which is 8167 meters (26,795 ft) high, has even more "8000-ers" to his credit. Juanito Oiarzabal, 42, mountain guide from Vitoria, has now climbed twelve of them.
     Oiarzabal had planned to climb one more that is rather near Dhaulagiri I which is named Annapurna I this spring, but bad weather early this month delayed too much the Dhaulagiri I ascent and will have to be attempted later. He already had scheduled the last of his 8000-ers, Xixabangma, for 1999.
     They scaled Dhaulagiri I via its standard climbing route up the northeast ridge. They are the tenth, eleventh and twelfth Spanish nationals ever to reach its summit. They never climbed with artificial oxygen.
     Only five mountaineers have ever summited all 14 8000-ers, and none of them was Spanish.


expid: DHA198104
peakid: DHA1
year: 1998
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Juan Jose San Sebastian
sponsor: Spanish Dhaulagiri I Expedition 1998
ascent1: 96th
bcdate: 1998-04-11
smtdate: 1998-05-22
smttime: 1000
termdate: 1998-05-26
campsites: BC(11/04,4700m),C1(14/04,5800m),C2(21/04,6600m),C3(20/05,7200m),Smt(22/05)
accidents: Tamayo fell into crevasse and badly bruised
agency: Sea to Summit Trekking
routememo:
  1st attempt 2 May by Juanito with Bereziartua and Vallezo of other Basque team to an aluminum pole which is not on top but is 50m below it; here many people consider it at top and go back from here; here ridge is very sharp and difficult to go higher and to get to true top one must traverse at about 8100m across North Face to point slightly beyond true summit and back on ridge to top. When reaching pole and peak slightly above, one can see more peaks and true top beyond. So down on 2 May to C3 and next day to BC. 

  Tried again on 13 May all Juanito's members and San Sebastian's Inurrategi brothers, Lazkano and San Sebastian BC to C1 and brothers and Juanito's 4 to C2 that day. 14th 5 men to C3 (Roju not). 15th waited in C3 because wind. 16th leave C3 for top but at 7400m because snow looked like slabs and dangerous and some members had stomach problems so down to BC same day. 

  20th Inurrategi brothers and Juanito BC to C2. 21st to C3, 22nd to top, from C3 at 2:00 am and on top 10:00 am and down to C2 at 5:00 pm. This time made proper traverse to true summit. This route not difficult most of its length only problem is traverse where snow slabs are dangerous and there is small couloir up to ridge.


expid: DHA198107
peakid: DHA1
year: 1998
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Tarcisio Bello
sponsor: CAI Marostica Dhaulagiri
ascent1: 100
bcdate: 1998-04-28
smtdate: 1998-05-26
smttime: 1248
termdate: 1998-05-29
campsites: BC(28/04,4850m),C1(30/04,5800m),C2(04/05,6600m),C3(17/05,7250m),Smt(26/05)
accidents: 2 Tamang climbers mild altitude sickness
agency: Trekking International
routememo:
  BC near other team's BCs
  C1 at NE Col.

  20 May Salvetti, Brunello and Tek Bahadur Tamang to C3 for summit attempt but on 21st Brunello was only one to go up from the camp. Salvetti had gotten stiff neck during the night and Tek Bahadur slight altitude sickness. Brunello went up to 7400m and then turned back because the traverse in the route was dangerous for one man alone; all down.

  On 25 May Bello and Vielmo to C3: was very windy night and they not sure whether to go up or not but decided to do so and started up rather late, at 7:00 am. Were on summit at 12:48 pm and returned to C3 at 4:00 pm and slept there. 

  Moretto, Toldo and Mioni had left BC on 22 May to catch there flight out of KTM to go home.


expid: DHA198106
peakid: DHA1
year: 1998
route1: NE Ridge
route2: N Spur (Eiger)
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Tone Skarja
sponsor: Slovenian Dhaulagiri Expedition
ascent1: 97th-99th
approach: Kali Gandaki (good rte for acclim but difficult for loads)->BC
bcdate: 1998-04-27
smtdate: 1998-05-23
smttime: 1100
termdate: 1998-05-28
campsites: BC(27/04,4760m),C1(30/04,5800m),C2(04/05,6600m),C3(17/05,7500m),Smt(23-24,26/05)
accidents: Stres altitude sickness; Karnicar apparent heart attack at C2
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 a little below NE Col
  C2 a little left of NE Ridge
  C3 on NE Ridge.

  Did not attempt North Face because after 4 May deep snow piled up and avalanched and strong winds came, so abandoned plan for North Face climb and followed normal route. 19 May Stres because seriously ill with cerebral edema in C3 and had to be carried down quickly by Slovenes and "nice" help from Italian team and every 100m of descent his health improved and in BC was normal. 3 summit teams to top on 3 days. Meglic climbed for 15 hours only from BC to top if counting climbing time only but spent nights in C1 and C3 on way to top. 

  On 25 May Stres and Markovic at midnight (of 24/25) left BC and went to north side to climb North Face of "Eiger" spur; at 2:00 am started up the Eiger and reached its top at 4:00 pm in about 1000 vertical meter ascent of small icefalls and rock 40 degrees in upper part; from its top moved left along ridge and reached normal route a litte below C1 and at 9:00 pm were in BC; this climb in "face climbing" style.


expid: EVER98113
peakid: EVER
year: 1998
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: David Walsh
sponsor: Himalayan Kingdoms Expedition to Everest 1998
ascent1: 297
countries: Canada, Ireland, USA
approach: Namche->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1998-04-06
smtdate: 1998-05-25
smttime: 0845
termdate: 1998-05-29
campsites: BC(06/04,5400m),C1(14/04,6000m),C2.ABC(22/04,6400m),C3(25/04,7700m),C4(18/05,7986m),Smt(25/05)
accidents: One Sherpa suspected fractured femur
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  Walsh started from C4 on 24th 10:30 pm, got to the summit at 9:00 am 25th May; Walsh went with Nima Dorje. Dhillon started from C4 on 24th 11:00 pm, got to the summit at 8:45 am 25th May; Nima and Kusang were with him. On 24th Mrs. Leonard, Kieran and Williams also left C4 together and they got up to the South Summit 8763m later.

  Singapore team was in front of them that day, and a Bolivian was also before them. Russell Brice was to the summit from the North; also some Chinese and 3 Sherpas.

  All of summit party of this expedition came to and slept at South Col. Leonard, Kieran and Williams returned from South Summit because the weather was deteriorating.

  Goodwin, Smith and Williams made summit attempt on 19 May but returned from South Summit because there was no fixed rope.


expid: EVER98106
peakid: EVER
year: 1998
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Wally Berg
sponsor: American Everest Expedition
ascent1: 286
countries: UK
bcdate: 1998-03-29
smtdate: 1998-05-20
smttime: 1030
termdate: 1998-05-23
agency: Above the Clouds
campsites:
  BC.Sherpas(29/03,5350m),Members.BC(10/04,5350m),C1(17/04,6100m),C2(18/04,6400m),C3(24/04,6700m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(20/05)

routememo:
  Berg sent all others of his team to top on 19th while he went C3 to C4  to operate GPS station at C4. Corfield badly wanted Everest summit and Simonson and Wilson wanted it from south side and if another westerner (i.e., Berg) didn't go up, Sherpas had less oxygen to carry. Berg arrived at C4 at 7:00 am while others left it at 11:00 pm on 19th. But deep snow below South Summit made progress very slow and tiring so turned back on 19th at South Summit at 9:30 am, tired and intimidated by deep snow and steep, exposed conditions to Hillary Step. Berg would have known that was normal condition, but others (which other teams) members didn't; returned to C4 in early afternoon and on down to C3. Berg didn't take sleeping bag with him so used Simonson's bag and all down so as to save oxygen. Berg 20 May carried 3 bottles from Col. GPS equipment had been left at South Summit but no oxygen left. Berg went up from Col on 20th with Apa from Hoffman expedition (didn't talk to Hoffman but Hoffman couldn't climb later without rope). Berg and Apa fixed before Hoffman expedition went for them top: Apa and Berg had climbed to top twice before and Berg trusted him. At col between South Summit and Step Berg found thermos of coffee Berg had left in May '97 (Hall's body not seen this year or last year), Fischer's body partly visible much lower). Apa fixed route across to Hillary Step and up it while Berg sorted GPS equipment left by Simonson on 19th at South Summit. By now Hoffman and team arrived and happy at route's being fixed. Berg's instructions were to drill hole in "Bishop rock" to mount permanent GPS station (Bishop rock's large relatively flat rock permanently fixed to mountain and highest exposed bed rock, about 100 linear meters and about 40 vertical meters from summit - see Bishop photo of Jerstad approaching summit and US flag on 22 May 63) and did so, much to Berg's pleasure, relief and pride. Was lovely clear not windy day. Berg stopped at rock and went to work drilling while Hoffman team went past. Berg later went to to top (10:30 am) took photo of prism on top and of GPS station are fixed on rock (which was hinged plate with 5/8" standard surveyors bolt - to this bolt, which sticks out about 1-1/2", is screwed (and can be unscrewed) Trimble receiver (station = bolt only) when receiver is in place station is occupied). This receiver sends signals to satellites (and this determines where receiver is) and those signals are bounced off satellites off and received back by receiver which then records signals.

  Berg returned to BC 22nd May; returned to C4 at 3:00; 23rd to C2
  GPS means Global Positioning System.


  Henry Todd, Everest Expedition leader - 5 June 98

  Berg several times categorically promised to several leaders that his Sherpas would fix rope above South Summit. "I was horrified at what happened" at South Summit on 19 May where many people arrived there and no rope fixed or being fixed. Todd had to regroup his people and resources at considerable cost in funds and disappointment to members and so did other leaders. "Berg acted as though he owned the mountain."

  According to Henry Todd (6 June 98), Wally Berg had categorically promised the leaders of several expeditions including Todd that his Sherpas would put in the fixed rope from the South Summit to the top of Hillary Step.

  However the pile-up of over 50 climbers on the morning of 19 May occurred because Berg's Sherpas did no fixing. According to Ang Babu/Babu Chiri Sherpa (8 June 98), who was there with the Swedish couple, Berg's Sherpas had not fixed rope that morning because "they were scared" by the cornices beyond the South Summit, so they stopped at the South Summit and did nothing.

  Ang Babu and Dorje Sherpa (with the Singapore team) did fix 50m of the 100m of rope brought by Berg's Sherpa. Ang Babu says that a total of 200m of rope were needed, but Berg's Sherpas ahd only 100m with them at the South Summit because they had used up the rest of the rope they had carried that day, while expectation that others coming up would also have rope with them. But when no more rope materialized, Ang Babu felt there no point in fixing only 50m more and stopped.

  The rope situation was as follows, according to Ang Babu:

   50m of Berg rope were fixed
   50m of Berg rope there at South Summit but not fixed
  100m more rope needed but not there
  ---
  200m total needed to fix from South Summit to top of Hillary Step.


expid: PUMO98102
peakid: PUMO
year: 1998
route1: SW Ridge (French 1982 rte)
nation: Canada
leaders: Tim Rippel
sponsor: Canadian Pumori Expedition International
ascent1: 119
countries: S Africa, Switzerland
bcdate: 1998-05-07
smtdate: 1998-05-18
termdate: 1998-05-21
campsites: BC(07/05,5250m),C1(14/05,5700m),C2(11/05,6200m),Smt(18/05)
accidents: Dick had chest problem and did little climbing: Burks pulmonary edema
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  BC above Gorak Sshep at normal SE Ridge route site
  C2 at SW Col.

  Stofer announced in KTM he would be independent climber and not integral member of expedition; didn't believe in expeditions (joined team from seeing it on being listed on internet). Stofer skipped C1, put in C2 before C1 had been established, then down and up with Rippel to fix route beyond Col, through some towers and back to ridge. At midnight of 17th-18th Stofer set out alone from C2 and summited about 5 pm, stayed on top 10 minutes and biv in descent at 6400m in dark and without biv sack biv in snowhole till daylight; then down to BC.

  Burks, Dick and Werby went no higher than C1 because of chest problem and Werby's headaches. Rippel and Richards to 6400m on 16th and 17th May, respectively (to top of fixed ropes). Rippel turned back because of responsibilities for his ailing members and Richards found route too technical for him to solo.

  Fixed rope 1400m used from just below C1 to 6400m, 700m of it on traverse from Col to 6400m.


expid: MAKA98101
peakid: MAKA
year: 1998
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Goetz Wiegand
sponsor: Saxon Himalayan Expedition Makalu-Everest
bcdate: 1998-03-26
smtdate: 1998-04-26
termdate: 1998-05-28
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to Wiegand's frostbite (only member left at end)
accidents: Meutzner serious frostbite (6-7 toes) and Wiegand's milder frostbite
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(26/03,4800m),ABC(07/04,5100m),C1(11/04,6100m),C2(18/04,6600m),Biv(24/04,7400m),Biv(25/04,7600m),xxx(26/04,8300m)

routememo:
  BC  southwest of Barun Pokhari
  ABC at junction of Barun and Chago Glacier
  C1  at Chago Glacier top end of rocks that divide it
  C2  at beginning of steep climb to Makalu La
  Biv at Makalu La (not fixed camp)
  High point at couloir near NW Ridge.

  At first were alone and difficult to fix route to Makalu so climbed to La in alpine-style taking tent from C3, made no fixed camp at La, but on 25th went up with tent intending to camp at 7800m but snowfall prevented their seeing the way up so camped at 7600m. 26th 3:00 am started up and 3:00 pm were at 8300m, when it started to snow heavily and many avalanches coming down couloir they were at bottom of. Difficult to see tent so continued descent and at 6:00 am of 27th reached Makalu La and Austrian tent, where they realized had frostbitten toes; rested 3 hours and down to C2 at 2:00 pm; Wiegand to ABC at midnight; Meutzner (worst frostbite) stayed in C2 with 2 members who had not made summit push; Kuegler and Stingl to ABC. Meutzner evacuated by helicopter from BC on 30 April. 

  Had made early push because trekkers were coming and wanted to go to Everest. Graefe left BC with trekkers. 4 remaining members wanted to go up again but Bulgarian doctor warned of serious consequences if Wiegand and Stingl continued up and they back to ABC while Kuezler and Zuellchner to C1 on 8th to C2 on 9th, stayed C2 10th because of strong winds, 11th to Makalu La where others tents were avoidable to them since Germans had done much rope fixing 12th weather bad and they not feeling strong. Zuellchner down to C2 and Kuegler up to 7000m to retrieve tent and its contents (the tent they had been unable to see in descent from 8300m) and down to Makalu La. Had decided on 12th to abandon summit plans. Both to BC on 14th.

  15th 3 remaining members left BC by helicopter taking almost all equipment but Wiegand stayed on with sirdar. Wiegand's feet much better and thought to try for top in 2nd half of May. On 18th May in good weather up from ABC to C2, where their tent had been left. On 19th to Makalu La to Russian tent. 20th to 7900m and another Russian tent. 21st up from 7900m with Catalan Spanish team but at 8200m turned back because toes very cold and stayed at 7900m and worked on his feet that day. 22nd reached nearly same point as in April, at 8200m this time all alone (sirdar had not come up with Wiegand but came up to meet him at C2 on descent) and again toes very cold and finally accepted fact his toes would not permit summit ascent. Down on 22nd near the end of his strength and could descend only to Makalu La and was completely alone as all Spaniards had gone down. 23rd to C2 where sirdar met him with food (had had nothing to eat for 3-4 days). On 23rd to ABC (local porter had come to C1 to take Wiegand's back pack).


expid: MAKA98102
peakid: MAKA
year: 1998
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Roland Mattle
sponsor: Vorarlberger Expedition to Makalu
countries: Germany
bcdate: 1998-04-10
smtdate: 1998-05-15
termdate: 1998-05-19
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to strong winds, lack of time & strength
campsites: BC(10/04,4850m),ABC(17/04,5400m),C1(23/04,6600m),C2(05/05,7400m),C3(06/05,7700m),xxx(15/05,7800m)
accidents: Only slightly frostbitten nose (Schneider)
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC  at moraine below Barun Pokhari
  ABC at moraine just below start of Chago Glacier
  C1  at start of steep glacier to Makalu La
  C2  at Makalu La
  C3  near NW Ridge
  High point near NW Ridge.

  Team climbed 4 times to Makalu La. After C3 slept in on 6 May and tried to go up next morning but terrible winds knocked them over and broke tents at C3 and C2 so did no climbing up and instead to ABC (were Theo Fritsche, Stefan Jungmann, Reinhold Schneider). 

  Next up were Frische and Schneider again, from ABC on 13th to C1 and 14th to C2. 14th Jungmann and Mattle left ABC early am and to Makalu La in 9-1/2 hours, rested in C2 and joined others in attempt for summit. Left C2 just before midnight of 14th in bright moonlight but strong wind from north and later clouds and snowfall coming. 3:30 am all 4 men turned back at 7800m because strong wind and clouds made it impossible to see way. Snow started at 3:00 am and brought 20cm snow. In descent 2 men fell 5 & 10m in bad snow conditions but not hurt. Schneider's nose frostbitten during night but will heal. Now climb finished: no more time and strength.


expid: MAKA98103
peakid: MAKA
year: 1998
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Josef Simunek
sponsor: Himalaya 8000 Makalu Expedition 1998
ascent1: 55th
approach: By helicopter Lukla->BC
bcdate: 1998-04-12
smtdate: 1998-05-19
smttime: 1030
termdate: 1998-05-23
accidents: Jires fever and stopped climbing
achievment: Czech's woman altitude record
agency: Nepal Trans Himalayan Explorer
campsites:
  BC(12/04,4800m),ABC(16/04,5600m),C1(22/04,6300m),C2(01/05,6600m),C3(03/05,7400m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(19/05)

routememo:
  BC  below Barun Pokhari
  ABC at north end of moraine to Chago Glacier above
  C3  at Makalu La.

  On 19 May left C4 4:15 am and on top 10:30 am (at highest tower) and down to C2 at 7:30 pm. 

  11 May same 3 people had tried for top with Ondrej but not above Makalu La, spent 2 nights at La and Ondrej slightly frostbitten fingers. All down on 13th to ABC.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Dorje, 37 yrs, Sonam village, Solu: his first 8000er


expid: NUPT98101
peakid: NUPT
year: 1998
nation: USA
leaders: Jim Williams
sponsor: Nuptse North Ridge Expedition
bcdate: 1998-04-06
smtdate: 1998-04-25
termnote: Abandoned at 5700m due to no interest by Glasgal in going higher
othersmts: Climbed Everest (EVER-981-13)
campsites: BC(06,20/04,5350m),xxx(25/04,5700m)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
primid: EVER98113
routememo:
  BC at foot of Khumbu Icefall
  High point in Icefall.

  There was no attempt to climb Nuptse. Reason for permit was to give Williams client, Ralph Glasgal, an opportunity to go into Khumbu Icefall which is all he wanted to do. Glasgal went into Icefall on about 25 April with Pemba Tshering Sherpa, climbed to about 5700m turned around same day and went home happy. Williams met him in Icefall by chance in William's descent to BC from work with Himalayan Kingdom's (Walsh leader) Everest expedition on which Williams was a guide.

  Williams & Leonard made no attempt on Lhotse also, concentrated on Everest, got to South Summit on 25 May and weather was deteriorating so retreated and climb finished.


expid: MAKA98105
peakid: MAKA
year: 1998
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Oscar Cadiach
sponsor: International Makalu Expedition
ascent1: 56th
countries: Andorra, Argentina, Mexico
bcdate: 1998-04-28
smtdate: 1998-05-19
smttime: 1600
termdate: 1998-05-25
campsites: BC(27/04,5600m),C1(07/05,6600m),C2(17/05,7400m),C3(18/05,7900m),Smt(19/05)
achievment: 1st Andorran to summit
agency: Sea to Summit Trekking
routememo:
  BC before seracs
  C1 at beginning of steep section
  C2 at Makalu La.

  19 may left C3 at 7:00 am and on true sumit at 4:00 pm and slept C3 at 7:00 pm in dark (Duro put one leg in crevasse but not hurt - wearing headlamps). 

  Other 3 members tried 21st to go to top from C3, but at 8400m on ridge feared would not have time to get to top and returned to C3.


expid: PUMO98101
peakid: PUMO
year: 1998
route1: W Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Kim Reynolds
sponsor: 1998 West Ridge of Pumori
bcdate: 1998-04-06
smtdate: 1998-04-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6460m due to lack of proper gear for rock and lack of time
campsites: BC(06/04,5240m),ABC(11/04,5550m),C1(15/04,5900m),C2(20/04,6460m),xxx(20/04,6460m)
agency: Nomad Nepal Treks
routememo:
  ABC at top of icefall
  C1  right below Col
  C2  at West Col
  High point at West Col (C2).

  From West Col had good look at West Ridge and saw old fixed lines 10 ft above surface of mountain: looked like clothes line; pins pulled out and hanging; 10 ft of ice had melted out from under lines and left bare loose rock. Ridge had been snow and ice in previous attempt in 1990 and team had brought little rock gear. Then weather turned bad with snow falling and had taken longer to get to col than expected; if had been snow and ice, could have climbed it in 3 days but now would have taken more time than that and team didn't have more time. It seems glaciers are retreating and difficult rock is being exposed.


expid: BARU98102
peakid: BARU
year: 1998
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Moreno Moreni
sponsor: Swiss Baruntse Expedition 1998
bcdate: 1998-04-22
smtdate: 1998-04-29
termdate: 1998-05-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to ice and snow problems and lack of time
campsites: BC(22-23/04,5300m),C1(28/04,5600m),xxx(29/04,6100m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Trekking Team
routememo:
  BC west of small lake west of West Col
  C1 southwest of Col
  High point just before Col.

  Did not actually reach Col because steep blue ice and spoke with Italian teams who reported too much snow above, so returned 29th to sleep in C1 and climb finished because "this is a holiday" too many problems; also not much time.


expid: BARU98101
peakid: BARU
year: 1998
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Paolo Giachini
sponsor: Italian Himalayan Expedition to Baruntse
approach: Via Mera La
bcdate: 1998-04-14
smtdate: 1998-04-26
termdate: 1998-04-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6750m due to deep snow, difficult and very hot
campsites: BC(14/04,4900m),C1(20/04,5950m),C2(24/04,6140m),C3(25/04,6400m),xxx(26/04,6750m)
agency: Mt. Pumori Adventures
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 below West Col on west side
  C2 on SE Ridge just above West Col
  C3 on SE Ridge.

  Expedition to Baruntse of Italian Baruntse.

  Expedition April 1998
  3 April The expedition flies to Lukla
  4       Lukla to Chutanga
  5       Chutanga to Chhotrara, 4200m altitude; we begin to find snow
  6       Chhotrara to Tashing Dingra, 3550m altitude
  7       Stop one day for acclimatize overself
  8       Tashing Dingra to Tangnag, 4200m altitude in the evening snowed
  9       Stop one day for acclimatize ourself
  10      Tangnag to Khare, 4800m altitude we found 150m snow
  11      We got over Mera Pass 5480m altitude and stopped at 5200m alt little down
  12      We go down until the Hunku Glacier and we stop at the Chatlang 
          We find 2m of new snow to go is very bad
  13      Go on along the Honku Glacier it is very difficult for the new 
          snow we stop in the nearly of Panch Pokhari
  14      After a march of more than 6 hours in the new snow we reach the BC 
  15      Stop for preparation our equipment and rest
  16      Stop like day 15th
  17      We go to look for high C1 place 
  18      Rest
  19      Rest
  20      BC to high C1 below the West Col 5950m alt
  21      We work to put the fix rope very slowly cause the bad weather 
  22      We continue to work
  23      We finish to put the fix rope to reach the glacier over Honku
  24      It snows and we just put the high C2 on the West Col ridge 6140m
  25      West Col ridge to high C3 at 6400m altitude
  26      We start for summit at 3 am. At 8:00 am at an altitude of 6750m 
          because of the very hard to go up for new snow and the in 
          insupportable hot we decide to go down. We got to high C1.
  27      High C1 to BC
  28      BC to Amphu Laptsa BC
  29      We got over Amphu Laptsa and reached Island Peak BC
  30      Island Peak BC to Dingboche

  1 May   Dingboche to Namche Bazar
  2       Namche Bazar to Lukla
  3       Lukla to Jiri to Kathmandu

  In spite of we didn't reach the summit of Baruntse mountain, I am very happy for this mountaineering experience for the exceptional performance of the sirdar Lhakpa Gelbu Sherpa and the porters were very strong and they didn't give any problem in spite of the difficulties.

  Unfortunately we don't get seat for the flight for Lukla to Kathmandu for the 3rd of May and was impossible to postpone the internationals flight to Italy - fixed for the 4th of May caused the overbooking in this.


expid: MAKA98104
peakid: MAKA
year: 1998
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Doychin Vassilev
sponsor: Bulgarian-Russian Makalu Expedition - 98
ascent1: 53rd,54th
countries: Bulgaria
bcdate: 1998-04-14
smtdate: 1998-05-16
termdate: 1998-05-23
campsites: BC(14/04,15,5700m),C1(18/04,6600m),C2(30/04,7400m),C3(15/05,7900m),Smt(16,19/05)
achievment: 1st Bulgarian summiter
agency: Sea to Summit Trekking
routememo:
  BC at high site
  C1 at middle of Chago Glacier in steep section
  C2 at Makalu La
  C3 at top of icefall which was cross.

  All summiters went to top from C3 and back to C3 to sleep except Valtchev, who couldn't find tents in darkness (7:00-7:30 pm) and spent night on glacier above camp (but no frostbite). Icefall seracs avalanche passed 5m from C1 but one hurt; very dangerous.

  Oxygen used by Jakovenko during operation in C1; Vassilev in C3 on return from summit extremely exhausted; Horozov and Valtchev also in extreme exhaustion and when Horozov fell in couloir but not hurt (fell on 20th May at about 6900m).

accidents:
  Dimitrov, Skripko and 6 others lowered blood pressure from cooking gas; Jakovenko infected heamorhoids and operated on at C1; Goncharov infected tooth


expid: KANG98102
peakid: KANG
year: 1998
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Taro Tanigawa
sponsor: Japanese Alpine Club Youth Section Kangchenjunga Expedition
ascent1: 50th
bcdate: 1998-03-28
smtdate: 1998-05-15
smttime: 1330
termdate: 1998-05-19
termnote: 2nd attempt canceled due to fatalities
campsites: BC(28/03,4940m),C1(07/04,5600m),C2(17/04,6500m),C3(26/04,7400m),C4(14/05,7900m),Smt(15/05)
accidents: Akasuka died from head injuries; Shiina also died of head injuries or general collapse
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Chose route different from Americans route because from reading report of 1980 Japanese expedition understood route Americans also followed was dangerous from avalanching in 7400m zones. Also wanted easier route for young members of this team. 

  On 15 May summited first party at 1:30 pm and last party at 2:30 pm. All members left top together at 3:00 pm. Shiina very tired and descended slowly and part of top section of route not fixed. At 10:00 pm all 5 men reached top of rope at 8200m and now Shiina sitting but unable to move or talk; others propping him up and massaging him - not on oxygen because team used it only sleeping and not climbing up or down. Tanigawa bivouacked with Shiina, went down but lost route to C4, unable to find section of fixed rope, went too far right. Hirose found route and reached C4 3:30 am 16 May while Okuda, blinded by altitude at 8000m rock band, could not move further and Akasaka maybe fell 50m down snow slope and hit head, bleeding from scalp and mouth. 3:00 am Shiina died in biv. 5:00 am Tanigawa started down and at 6:30 am found Akasaka and both moved down 100m (Tanigawa almost carried him as he stumbled down); then Akasaka could not move down. Rescue party including Tanabe up from C3 and 9:15 am met them at 7900m to C4. At 9:30 am Akasaka died probably of head injuries. Hirose carried oxygen up to Okuda from C4 very slowly and Tanabe up to Okuda at 4:00 pm first also with oxygen. Okuda blind and could not move; now priority is to rescue Okuda who after oxygen use able rope all down. Hirose, Tanigawa, Tanabe and Okuda reached C4 at 5:00 pm and stayed in C4 that night; bodies covered by bivouac sack and snow. 17 May reached C2 and 18 May called for rescue helicopter to C1, but had to descend to Ghunsa to get in helicopter. Okuda very bad frostbite fingers and toes; Tanigawa right toes; Hirose 5 night fingers (Okuda will lose some parts of fingers and toes). These men "not so strong to climb without oxygen." Schiina slipped often and probably hit his head also and died of these injuries probably.

  Note: More climbing abandoned on 16 May due to fatalities. 2nd attack planned for 17 May.


expid: KANG98106
peakid: KANG
year: 1998
route1: SW Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Hans Kammerlander
sponsor: Italian Kangchenjunga Expedition
ascent1: 52nd
countries: Germany
bcdate: 1998-04-26
smtdate: 1998-05-18
smttime: 1400
termdate: 1998-05-20
campsites: BC(26/04,5000m),C1(01/05,6100m),C2(04/05,7100m),C3(17/05,7500m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC lower than normal because porters not dressed properly
  C1 on lip of Great Shelf
  C2 just above Shelf (bivouac only).

  18 May very early morning tried to go for top but very cold wind and no light (headlamp failed) and thigh deep snow, returned from 7800m to C3 about 1:00 am. 7:00 am again up and this time Kammerlander and Auer to top (not via Col but same line of Tibetans) at 2:00 pm in cold but not very windy. Kammerlander skied from 7600m to all the way to BC. Did not take skis to top because too much rock above 8200m and thought would not be possible much above 7600m. 

  Not happy with success because "too high price (frostbite) for normal route," lot of Tibetan ropes and too slow. Not his style climb with 3 camps and 3 weeks on mountain. Now with frostbitten toes (will lose some tips) cannot go immediately to Manaslu but will have to wait till 1999.

accidents:
  Tinkhauser twisted ankle which stopped his climbing about 1 May; Kammerlander toes frostbitten, had to wait for Auer on his 1st 8000er


expid: KANG98101
peakid: KANG
year: 1998
route1: SW Face (to 8300m)
nation: Spain
leaders: Jesus Martinez, Jose Antonio Martinez
sponsor: Galicia Desafio 8000 to Kangchenjunga, Makalu, Everest & Xixabangma
bcdate: 1998-03-04
smtdate: 1998-04-08
termdate: 1998-05-05
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to continuous snowfall, sapped motivation
campsites: BC(04/03,4800m),ABC(09/03,5400m),C1(22/03,6100m),C2(06/04,7000m),C3(07/04,7400m),xxx(08/04,8300m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: My Home Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at Yalung Glacier near Jannu East BC
  ABC at normal Kangchenjunga BC
  C1  in normal C1
  C2  just below Great Shelf
  C3  on higher (northern) part of Shelf
  High point at Col.

  Problem with porters demanding Rs 2500 each for 2-day carry to normal BC (good weather and no snow in early March). After ABC reached, snowfall began and went down. Again made C1 and down because snow. 3 April brothers up from BC. 4 April ABC to C1. 5 April made route to C3 from C1 and slept at C1. 6 April to C2 to sleep. 7 April C3. 8th April to Col between Yalung Kang and Main Summit and sleep in C3. 9 April down to ABC because needed more acclimatization. Rested at BC and then days of bad weather. Many times up to ABC only and 19 April got to little above C1 to sleep (6400m) but every day snowfall prevented more progress - then avalanching and winds. 2 May Toni and Tibetans fixed rope C2 to C3; 3 May up to Shelf, where tent gone, and then down to ABC and climb finished because 2 months spent at mountain left no motivation; also have to go to Spain for few days with family and then to Karakoram: 4 peaks have own permits and on K2 join other Spanish team's permit - may not return to Nepal.


expid: KANG98105
peakid: KANG
year: 1998
route1: SW Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Fausto De Stefani
sponsor: Independent climber on Kangchenjunga
ascent1: 49th
bcdate: 1998-04-15
smtdate: 1998-05-15
smttime: 0014
termdate: 1998-05-17
campsites: BC(15/04,5400m),C1(17/04,6000m),C2(28/04,6700m),C3(29/04,7000m),C4(08/05,7700m),Smt(15/05)
accidents: De Stefani and Gyalzen very slight frostbite
achievment: De Stefani claims this as his 14th 8000er
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC higher than others
  C4 above Shelf.

  In later half of April frequent snowfall and much work to make route and camps. Avalanche carried De Stefani 250m nearly at C4 but very light snow and he could swim out of it with no serious damage. 9 May up for summit to 8450m and down because wind and small throat problem and down to BC. 12 May De Stefani and Gyalzen to C1, stayed 1 hour and slept in C2. 13 May both to C3 and slept there. 14 May 7:00 am started to C4 in very good weather with slight wind in day and none at night; arrived C4 4:00 pm. 3-1/2 hours in C4 and 7:30 pm started for 400m couloir which is excellent condition (some line routes at Tibetans) and bright moonlight. On summit 00:14 hours on 15th (stop at 8450m for cup of cappuchino, a delightful experience. From top could see around many dotted villages lights and this lovely. 3 hours to return from top to C4 but did not sleep till reached C2 because "important for me to go down" since not having using oxygen: very tired arrived C2 6 hours after top.


expid: KANG98104
peakid: KANG
year: 1998
route1: SW Face
nation: China
leaders: Samdrup
sponsor: China-Tibet Expedition to 14 Mountains of 8000m
ascent1: 48th
bcdate: 1998-04-08
smtdate: 1998-05-09
smttime: 1120
termdate: 1998-05-13
achievment: 1st Chinese summiters
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(08/04,4870m),ABC(13/04,5400m),C1(17/04,6080m),C2(02/05,6630m),C3(04/05,7100m),C4(06/05,7600m),Smt(09/05)

routememo:
  BC  at lower than normal site (Khumbukarna Glacier)
  ABC at normal BC.

  Mountain very difficult and weather bad and strong winds especially on top on summit. Team had to make BC lower than normal. Leader and doctor had to go up to ABC because porters refused to go higher and leader and doctor helped carry loads to ABC; interpreter also twice carried loads. C2 occupied only on 2 May because heavy snowfall in April. Summit party went to top together; left C4 at 2:30 am and on top 11:20 in very strong wind. Did not climb via col but chose slightly shorter route. Spent only 15 minutes on top because of wind. Slept in C3 9th May, where arrived 6:30 pm; went to C3 because C4 on sloping surface and not much space there. 3 summiters got frostbitten cheeks and 2 frostbitten toes and fingers but nothing very serious. On ascent at 8300m 1 member hit by big avalanche and which took his hat and gloves down with it but he was not carried down or hurt (not even frostbitten); 2 teams roped together and man hit was protected by other's belay: avalanche started by team above him - snow 75cm deep from C2 to C4.

  21 May 98 - Hans Kammerlander: his teammate Seeber watched Tibetans on this summit day through powerful binoculars and believe they stopped 50 meters below summit. Kammerlander is sure not all reached summit, maximum 3 did.

  25 May 98 - Fausto De Stefani believes Tibetans used oxygen but did not actually see them doing so. Had good supply of bottles and masks at high camp.


expid: KANG98103
peakid: KANG
year: 1998
route1: N Face (Japanese 1980 rte)
nation: USA
leaders: Gary Pfisterer
sponsor: International Kangchenjunga 98
ascent1: 51st
countries: Canada, UK
bcdate: 1998-04-05
smtdate: 1998-05-18
smttime: 1130
termdate: 1998-05-21
accidents: Malo respiratory infection
achievment: 1st woman summiter
agency: Everest Parivar
campsites:
  BC(05/04,5100m),Temp(08/04,5400m),C1(10/04,5800m),C2(15/04,6800m),C3(03/05,7400m),C4(17/05,7900m),Smt(18/05)

routememo:
  5 members made summit attempt on 18th. Left C4 at 4:30 am and Pratt on top 11:30 am, Shaw at 12:00, Horvath 12:30 and Harrison at 2:30 pm having stayed with her husband who turned back at 1:30 pm at about 8400m tired. All safely in C4 that night, Harrison by 5:00 pm. Had tried for top 7 May and turned around 8000m; had planned to put camp at 8000m and go to top on 8th but very deep snow and winds turned them back and down to C2 and then BC. This bid by same 5 members. Mountain much more dangerous than last year; this year major ice avalanches one of which blew away C1 (found tent in crevasse 200m away). There were major icefalls; last year no avalanche at all. Scott route thundering falling rock constantly (every 10 minutes and big rocks) whereas last route nothing fell.


  Briton is First Woman to Scale World's Third Highest Mountain
  By Elizabeth Hawley

  Kathmandu, May 29 (Reuters) - The world's third highest mountain, Kangchenjunga, was first "conquered" in 1955 by three British and one New Zealand man, but no woman had ever gotten to its 8586m (28,169 ft) summit until this month.

  The Nepalese tourism ministry announced today that Mrs. Ginette Harrison, a 40-year-old British physician living in Monson, Massachusetts, USA reached Kangchenjunga's lofty summits on May 18.

  She summited with a party of three men:
   - Timothy Horvath, 27, American contractor from Cherry Valley, New York;
   - Christopher Shaw, 36, American, computer programmer from Boulder, Colorado;
   - Jonathan Pratt, 39-year-old mining engineer who has both British and American
     citizenship and lives in Shenfield, Essex, England.

  They scaled their mountain not by its standard route on the southwest side but via the more difficult North Face.

  Kangchenjunga was not the first great Himalayan peak Mrs. Harrison had reached. She stood atop the world's highest, Everest, in May 1993 and the sixth highest, Cho Oyu, in September 1997.

  Her husband, Gary Pfisterer, 45, was the leader of this six-member team, of which Mrs. Harrison was the only woman member.


expid: JONG98102
peakid: JONG
year: 1998
route1: SE Face (Yugoslav 1983 rte)
nation: Ireland
leaders: Kieran O'Hara
sponsor: Irish Nepal Himalayan Expedition 1998
countries: UK
bcdate: 1998-04-20
smtdate: 1998-05-15
termdate: 1998-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 6660m due to deep snow, avalanches and lack of time
campsites: BC(20/04,5140m),ABC(23/04,5400m),C1(29/04,5800m),C2Biv(14/05,6500m),xxx(15/05,6660m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Nepal Trek House
routememo:
  BC  at Pangpema
  ABC at junction Jonsong and West Langpo Glaciers
  C1  just beneath Jonsong La at east end of big snow basin
  High point at snow and ice wide open couloir.

  C2 was bivouac occupied one night only. On 15th 2 members up wide couloir to 6660m and then very heavy snowfall and 2-3 ft deep snow avalanches coming down so turned back and slept in C1 down a face. Next day to ABC and 17th to BC. 

  14 May left C1 at 1:00 am and ascended slowly because steepness and no place to biv till 6500m; 4 people left C1 and reached biv ledge where they slept:  Aylward and Brogan, who went down next day (15 May) because were tired. No time to make another bid because had started from Kathmandu delayed by late-arriving cargo and had to leave BC on 22 May. Was much harder climb than expected and next time in 2000? will put in fixed ropes to C1, dump food and gear, go down and bring up more again.


expid: DROM98101
peakid: DROM
year: 1998
route1: S Rib of Central Summit
nation: UK
leaders: Doug Scott, Lindsay Griffin
sponsor: British Northeast Nepal Expedition
countries: USA
bcdate: 1998-04-13
smtdate: 1998-04-30
termdate: 1998-05-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to weak team
othersmts: Attempted Jongsang (JONG-981-01)
campsites: BC(13/04,4657m),ABC.Deposit(28/04,5200m),C1(29/04,5600m),xxx(30/04,6000m)
accidents: Griffin's illness
agency: Nepal Trek House
routememo:
  BC  at Lhonak village
  ABC (depot) at below moraine of South Glacier
  C1  at South Glacier
  High point at bottom of South Rib of Central Summit.

  Very difficult peak: looked all around it; western end of the long serious summits looked reasonable but high up threatening ice camp, others too steep and with ice also over hanging and eastern end too far from highest which is at west end. Tackled South Rib of Central Summit; got to 20,000 ft and all gear in place for more climbing alpine style; went down and Griffin got stomach trouble, Novak hadn't been above 18,000 ft before so Scott didn't feel confident with him, and Freeman-Attwood left without having done any real climbing. 30th to high point and slept in C1; 1st still in C1 waiting for Griffin to feel better but he didn't, so all 3 members down to BC on 2nd April. Then snowfall and 5th May left to return to KTM. 

  "Weak team" - had 3 Sherpas who did no climbing on Drohmo except to clean camps. Griffin and 3 Sherpas stayed on to try Jongsang, but Griffin unlikely to do much since spent many days sleeping; with him strong or others strong climbers could have succeeded on this technical but safe route on south rib.


expid: JONG98101
peakid: JONG
year: 1998
route1: W Ridge from Outlier
nation: UK
leaders: Doug Scott, Lindsay Griffin
sponsor: British Northeast Nepal Expedition to Jongsong
countries: USA
bcdate: 1998-04-13
smtdate: 1998-05-16
termdate: 1998-05-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6250m due to team not sufficiently skilled
othersmts: Attempted Drohmo (DROM-981-01)
campsites: BC(13/04,4657m),Biv(12/05,5250m),C1(13/05,5800m),xxx(16/05,6250m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Nepal Trek House
primid: DROM98101
routememo:
  Before 12 May lot of bad weather at Lhonak. Good weather on 12th up Broken Glacier and camped 5250m that night. 13th of Long Ridge Pass at 5800m. 14th up onto end of West Ridge of Jongsang and then east-northeast on this ridge, very steep and sharp; had long day's recce here which convinced Griffin didn't want to go on further without another person who would be safety-conscious and technically higher skilled, so came down to camp of 5800m. 15th snowed all day. 16th went onto a spur towards West Ridge of Jongsang to 6250m col and again to 5800m. 17th decided to abandon because Griffin not happy to continue without other partner. 17th night to Lhonak.


expid: JANU98101
peakid: JANU
year: 1998
route1: S Ridge (French 1962, Spanish 1981 rtes)
nation: Russia
leaders: Lev Ioffe
sponsor: US-Russian Jannu Expedition
countries: USA
bcdate: 1998-04-16
smtdate: 1998-05-06
termdate: 1998-05-09
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to bad weather and shortage of manpower
campsites: BC(16/04,4500m),C1(18/04,4800m),C2(19/04,5400m),C3(25/04,6000m),C4(03/05,6400m),xxx(06/05,6500m)
accidents: Nothing very serious but Ioffe had to stop climb
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC at Yamatori Glacier (standard French BC)
  C1 at junction of Yamatori and side glacier
  C2 on side glacier (same site as Spanish 1981)
  C4 near 6500m peak
  High point traversing towards Dentella Peak.

  After C4 made, leader and then another member Levachenko became sick (bronchitis) and some descended with Ioffe, so teams strength decreased and at same time weather bad every afternoon with little visability. In 4 weeks only one day of no snowfall. From C4 route crossed a few crevasse but gained little altitude as they traversed below ridge.


expid: AMAD58301
peakid: AMAD
year: 1958
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Alfred Gregory
countries: Italy
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to difficulty of rock and ice
campsites: BC,C1,C2,xxx(6000m)
othersmts:
  Climbed Island Peak (IMJA-583-01); attempted Cho Polu (CHOP-583-01); recon Lhotse Shar (LSHR-583-01)

routememo:
  LE PRIME FOTOGRAFIE DELLA SPEDIZIONE ITALOINGLESE SULL’HIMALAYA
   
  L’inferno è sul tetto del mondo
   
  Una nuova pagina drammatica della lotta per la conquista delle più alte vette del mondo nel racconto di due famosi scalatori italiani
   
  Il vecchio ingegnere scalatore Piero Ghiglione e la famosa guida Giuseppe Pirovano si sono uniti lo scorso ottobre a quattro inglesi e hanno formato una spedizione anglo-italiana. Gli scopi erano due: esplorare  a fondo, per la prima volta, le tre immense valli ai piedi occidentali del gruppo che fa capo alla cima più alta del mondo, e tentare la prima ascensione di una montagna favolosa, ritenuta una delle più ardue dell’intera catena himalayana: l’Hama Dablàm, di quasi settemila metri. Il primo risultato è stato conseguito e ne trarrà particolare vantaggio la cartografia dell’Everest, ancora sommaria e imprecisa; il secondo e stato fallito per un soffio: Pirovano e il suo compagno di cordata Cunningham furono buttati indietro quando avevano la vetta a poche centinaia di metri. Ma altre vie su nuove altissime cime sono state saggiate, ed è stata raggiunta la vetta inviolata dell’Island Peak, a circa 6500 metri, da due cordate, una delle quali guidata da Piero Ghiglione.

  Capo della spedizione era Alfred Gregory, lo scalatore inglese esperto dell’Everest, per avere fatto parte del la spedizione che lo conquistò sei anni fa. Gli altri tre inglesi John Cunningham, Dick Cook, Cyril Levene, il medico. Piero Ghiglione era stato nell’Himalaya altre tre volte, ma mai nella zona dell’Everest. Giuseppe Pirovano era reduce della sua prima fortunata spedizione d’oltreoceano, fra i colossi delle Ande settentrionali.

  “La cosa più imprevista”, dice Pirovano, “ciò che colpisce più profondamente di queste regioni sono secondo me le distanze”. La piccola spedizione camminò infatti, a piedi, per monti e per valli cinquecento chilometri per giungere alla testa dei ghiacciai. Cinquecento per andare e altrettanti per tornare. “Vedi l’Himalaya dalla pianura indiana o nepalese come le Alpi dalla pianura padana; non percepisci le proporzioni diverse. Poi cominci a camminare, e cammini settimane e settimane. Il sentiero, largo una spanna quando c’è, non aggira i valichi o i colli: sale diritto, verticale, magari per un dislivello di mille metri (e tu speri di aver guadagnato quota), poi precipita di nuovo a picco, in fondo a una vallata parallela alla prima. È la marcia della disperazione”.

  I sei europei associarono i portatori sherpa in un villaggio nepalese, Thengpoche, a 3750 metri d’altitudine. Ne occorrevano ventisette, ma non vi erano uomini in numero sufficiente: si offrirono così le “sherpani”, donne portatrici, le quali si rivelarono incredibilmente resistenti. Vestivano ampie gonne di lana colorata e calzari rossi, comuni anche nel vicino Tibet, e avevano spalle robuste e piede sicuro non meno degli uomini. Quando la carovana si fermava, al tramonto, per erigere uno degli innumerevoli campi lungo la via dell’Everest, gli uomini si radunavano a cantare in cerchio mentre le “sherpani” andavano al torrente di fondovalle e si mettevano gaiamente a lavare. Quattro chilometri a nord di Thengpoche, Ghiglione e Pirovano ebbero la prima grossa sorpresa: poterono mettersi in capo lo scalpo dello yeti. L’ “abominevole uomo delle nevi”. Lo trovarono nel celebre monastero di Pangpoche, ove li introdusse un priore buddista non senza l’obolo di alcune rupie. Dopo ulteriori contrattazioni costui si risolse a mostrare il cimelio. “Sembra autentico”, dice Ghiglione. “Il monaco spiegò che quello yeti era stato ucciso il secolo scorso da un gran lama. Il fatto era avvenuto sulle montagne soprastanti al monastero. Lo scalpo è una cotenna di colore grigio scuro, divisa in due parti e cucita per farla stare unita; i capelli, o i peli. sono rossicci, piuttosto fini e lisci”. A Ghiglione non sembra che possa trattarsi della pelle di un orso o di un altro quadrupede. “Per me” dice, “lo yeti è una scimmia antropoide e quello scalpo e quei peli sottili lo dovrebbero dimostrare”.

  La carovana entrò nella regione dell’Everest risalendo la valle verso nord, lungo il fiume Imja. Tre grandi ghiacciai formano l’ossatura sud-occidentale del gruppo: l’Hongu Mera, l’Imja Khola e il Kumbu. Sopra questi si ergono tre cime di settemila metri: l’Hama Dablàm (m. 6850), il Nuptse (metri 7827), il Pumori (m. 7145), e insieme all’Everest (m. 8840) un altro famoso “ottomila”, il Lhotse Shar (m. 8387). Le creste e i colli fra queste cime non scendono mai sotto i cinquemila metri, e vette minori sono considerate quelle millecinquecento metri più alte del Monte Bianco.

  “L’Everest lo vedemmo per la prima volta dalla pianura”, dice Pirovano, “quando mancavano venti giorni di cammino per arrivargli sotto. Poi lo perdemmo di vista, sembrava sparito fra la selva di montagne. Ce lo ritrovammo di faccia tutto a un tratto a una curva di una valle: è una visione indescrivibile, l’occhio umano non è abituato a valutare dimensioni così mostruose”. Poi, salendo lungo il versante opposto del Khumbu, il ghiacciaio che lambisce i piedi del gigante, lo stesso Pirovano ebbe l’impressione di poterlo toccare. Fu sul Pumori che la spedizione al completo risalì fino a un’altezza di seimila metri allo scopo di studiare l’orografia circostante come da una balconata panoramica. Il Pumori è uno dei “settemila” vergini più ambiti dagli scalatori di tutto il mondo: è una delle sentinelle dell’Everest ed è una montagna stupenda, per conto suo. “ La via di salita, in quella ricognizione”, osserva Pirovano, “l’abbiamo studiata fino nei particolari”.

  Dall’ultimo campo sul Pumori, una tenda piantata a filo di cresta, gli alpinisti poterono riconoscere l’intero sviluppo del ghiacciaio Khumbu, labirinto di pinnacoli e di obelischi glaciali alti come icebergs, e la faccia occidentale dell’Everest dal famoso colle nord, a settemila metri, al colle sud, a ottomila. Il primo rappresentò la via tentata dai primi inglesi che assalirono l’Everest; il secondo quella percorsa dagli uomini vittoriosi del colonnello Hunt. Nel fondo di questo quadro si stagliava la piramide dell’altro “ottomila”, il Lhotse. In basso, infine, potè venire osservato un celebre passo himalayano, il Lho-la, che conduce direttamente al Tibet. Ghiglione e Gregory presero numerose annotazioni per arricchire la topografia della regione.

  La seconda valle esplorata dalla spedizione è stata quella dell’Imja Khola, il fiume che scaturisce dal gigantesco ghiacciaio omonimo. Esso si estende a sud dell’Everest e giunge ai piedi del Lhotse. La carovana la risalì per intero, aggirando guglie di ghiaccio alte una ottantina di metri. Nessuno era rnai stato finora sul suo bacino superiore, ove confluiscono altri ghiacciai minori discendenti dal gruppo del Lhotse che è composto da tre vette congiunte da una lunghissima crosta. A questo punto i sei uomini si divisero: Pirovano e Cunningham, con alcuni sherpa, mossero contro un “settemila” di grande nome, il Chopulu: Gregory, Ghiglione, Cook e Levene, con altri portatori, si diressero invece alla conquista dell’Island Peak. Alfred Gregory era impegnato nel girare un film, e non potè offrire aiuto alla cordata di Pirovano. Un peccato, perché sarebbe bastato un minimo appoggio per consentire la prima conquista di una delle cime più belle di tutto l’Himalaya.

  Pirovano e Cunningham, con i tre sherpa di scorta, attraversarono faticosamente il complicato ghiacciaio del Lhotse Shar. Il tempo volse al brutto proprio il giorno in cui attaccarono la parete di ghiaccio che sale al colle nord del Chopulu. Nevicò abbondantemente e l’immenso scivolo glaciale alto circa un chilometro divenne proibitivo. Pirovano forzò la situazione  (“Ho fatto cose molto al di là della prudenza”, dice) e riuscì in una giornata a raggiungere il colle, a 6300 metri. La mattina successiva nevicò ancora. Sempre in testa, Pirovano ripartì. Il giovane Cunningham lo seguiva volonterosamente, con coraggio, ma non era all’altezza di dargli il cambio. La guida italiana intagliò scalini nel ghiaccio, fra i sei e i settemila metri, per due giorni, quasi ininterottamente. Salirono lungo la cresta, erta e insidiosa per le grandi cornici sporgenti sul vuoto. Alcune le superarono di sopra, altre di sotto, a filo sul baratro di duemila metri che sovrasta il ghiacciaio di Barun. Nel primo pomeriggio si scatenò la bufera, ma Pirovano avanzò ancora: la vetta del Chopulu, a 7020 metri, non era più lontana. Giunsero a 6900 metri, forse più. L’ultimo tratto era interamente visibile e non presentava difficoltà, ma ormai il monsone cresceva di forza a ogni minuto. Gli occhiali coperti dalla neve, il volto incrostato di ghiaccio, Pirovano si volse e disse al suo compagno: “In cima ci arriviamo. Ma non torneremo”.

  Cunningham rispose soltanto: “Torniamo”. La discesa fu drammatica, tuttavia senza incidenti. La bufera continuò per giorni, minacciò di strappare la tenda che i due uomini con i chiodi ancoravano alla roccia nei diversi bivacchi, e alla fine ricoprì la montagna di un manto così spesso di neve fresca da togliere ogni speranza per un ulteriore tentativo. “Se avessimo avuto un campo attrezzato più in alto”, dice Pirovano, “avremmo potuto benissimo toccare la cima e discendere per tempo. In due soli è follia tentare un “settemila” himalayano”.

  I due gruppi della spedizione si ritrovarono sul ghiacciaio dell’Imja.

  Gregory e Ghiglione, in sei ore di salita, avevano conquistato la bianca cima dell’Island Peak. Ora non rimaneva che affrontare la terza vallata, quella ancora più a sud, dell’Hongu Mera. Pirovano e Cunningham, dall’alto del Chopulu, l’avevano guardata lungamente: a picco sopra di essa svettava  l’Hama Dablàm, la vertiginosa piramide di ghiaccio e granito, “Cervino dell’Himalaya”, che sarebbe stata il loro prossimo avversario.


