# exped

expid: HIMN85301
peakid: HIMN
year: 1985
route1: SW Ridge-SW Face-E Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Wieslaw Panejko
sponsor: Polish Himalaya Expedition Himalchuli 1985
ascent1: 2nd
approach: Khudi->Bandh Pokhari
bcdate: 1985-09-28
smtdate: 1985-11-01
smttime: 1025
campsites: BC(28/09,4200m),ABC(03/10,4600m),C1(04/10,4900m),Biv1(29/10,5850m),Biv2(31/10,6600m),Smt(01/11)
achievment: 1st Polish attempt and ascent, new route
routememo:
  BC  north of Merra Pokhari
  ABC 2 hours from foot of SW Ridge
  C1  on SW Ridge (did not use this camp later)
  Biv 1 on SW Face above SW Ridge past C1, after 1st serac barrier
  Biv 2 after 2nd serac barrier on SW Face.

  6th Oct all down to BC with heavy snowfall. Twice tried to go to ABC but not possible in deep snow and avalanching. 16 Oct did reach ABC but back to BC with more bad weather. Decided to climb alpine-style. 26 Oct again to ABC and put new tent there replacing broken tent (crushed by snow). Could not see C1. 

  29 Oct up alpine-style in one team of Panejko, Brys and Klincewicz and reached 5850m. 30 Oct big wind, tent poles being carried were lost and returned to Biv 1. Brys down on 30th and Jakubowski replaced him. 31 Oct crossed 2nd serac barrier in very hard ice climbing. 1 Nov Panejko fingers freezing so did not get to top; other 2 returned to biv at 2:30 pm [after summiting]. 

  No more summit attempts because winter breaking, strong winds.


expid: GANG85301
peakid: GANG
year: 1985
route1: E Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Wojciech Maslowski
sponsor: Polish-Canadian Gangapurna Expedition 1985
ascent1: 7th-9th
countries: Canada
approach: Ghandruk->Modi Khola
bcdate: 1985-09-20
smtdate: 1985-10-23
termdate: 1985-10-26
campsites: BC(20/09,4050m),C1(21/09,5000m),C2(28/09,5700m),C3(05/10,6500m),C4(22/10,6850m),Smt(23-24,26/10)
achievment: 1st Polish ascent of Gangapurna
routememo:
  BC in Annapurna Sanctuary
  C1 on glacier west of Gabelhorn 
  C2 on snow ridge
  C3 on snow ridge
  C4 on East Ridge in middle of Col between Gangapurna and Annapurna III.

  1st C3 lost in deep snow (at least 3 meters) of early mid-Oct snowstorms and had to be replaced with new camp about 15m to one side of old site. No technical problems, just snow. Fixed 1000m rope but only 500m on rock just before C1 and between C1 and C2.

  4 men got struck for 3 nights in C3 because heavy snowfall and 3 more nights in C2 again heavy snow.

  Zobniow reached 7000m and returned to C4 before top: bad altitude sickness (was with 3rd summit party) and had to be belayed by others to get down mountain. There was avalanching but no one hit.

  Mikokaj and Szpot left expedition 20 Oct to go back to work.

accidents:
  1 member reached 7000m and returned to C4 before top (bad alitiude sickness, was with 3rd summit party); there was avalanching but no one hit


expid: MAKA85301
peakid: MAKA
year: 1985
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Sergio Martini
sponsor: Project 1985 -Italians and Spaniards on Makalu
ascent1: 22nd
countries: Spain
approach: Khanbari->Sedua->Tashigaon
bcdate: 1985-08-31
smtdate: 1985-10-01
smttime: 1800
termdate: 1985-10-05
campsites: BC(31/08,5400m),C1(04/09,5850m),C2(08/09,6800m),C3(22/09,7400m),C4(30/09,7900m),Smt(01/10)
achievment: 1st Italians to summit
routememo:
  BC at 5400m on ridge on west side of Chago Glacier south of pt 6170m
  C1 at 5850m on moraine stone just east of "h" in Chago Glacier on Schneider map
  C2 at 6800m east of (below) Makalu La
  C3 at 7400m on Makalu Col 
  C4 at 7900m just east of NW Ridge.

  Route from C1 to C2 kept to east of moraine south of Chago. Sept 9 descended to BC and then much snowfall. On Sept 14 tried to go from C2 to col but got halfway only and then again snowfall and again to BC for 1 week. Sept 22 C3 established. 24 Sept Giambisi and San Sebastian to C3. Then all down to BC because deep fresh snow. Finally up again Sept 28 by all 5 climbers. Slept C2 that night, in C3 on Sept 29, C4 on Sept 30 and Oct 10. Left C4 for top 6:30 am and on summit 6:00 pm. Returned to C4 11:00 pm in new deep snow. Oct 2 at C2 and Oct 3 BC. Left BC Oct 5 and arrived KTM Oct 12.

accidents:
  Tamayo ill at BC in early Sept, left after 2 days and never took part in climb; most climbers have some frostbite including Man Bahadur Tamang but not disastrous


expid: NILS85301
peakid: NILS
year: 1985
route1: S Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Kenji Ohama
sponsor: Sangaku Dojin Kochi Expedition Nilgiri 1985
approach: Kali Gandaki->Thulobugin Pass
bcdate: 1985-09-12
smtdate: 1985-10-26
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to unstable rock, lack of time
campsites: BC(12/09,4200m),ABC(29/09,4900m),C1(18/10,5600m),C2(26/10,5900m),xxx(26/10,5900m)
accidents: None; plenty of rock fall but all wore helmets
routememo:
  BC  at Bung Khola on trail east of Ghasa south of Pt 5595m on Around Annapurna map
  ABC just under South Face
  C1  on South Face
  High point at face (2 pitches before C2 site).

  ABC on 29th Sept only. Bad snow and rain delayed its establishment. Many snow avalanches covered ABC and buried camps and supplies, 2 meters deep and once broke tent. C1 on 18th Oct: again heavy snowfall. Above C1 100m vertical unsound rock which was very dangerous but possible to fix rope. Fixed total of 1000m rope.

  Plenty of rocks fell, but all wore helmets.


expid: ANN385301
peakid: ANN3
year: 1985
route1: E Ridge from S
nation: UK
leaders: Ewen Todd
sponsor: Scottish Annapurna II Expedition
approach: Seti Khola->E side of S Ridge of Annapurna III
bcdate: 1985-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 5000m due to heavy snow and difficulty of approach to BC
routememo:
  East Ridge extremely long; 1000m icefall from 21,000 ft leads to this ice ridge. SE Pillar is one of hardest climbs in Himalaya: steep rock climbing but line.

  Total 10 members out of which 5 are trekkers only.


  Ewen Todd - 16 Oct 85

  Never got to base camp. Went up Seti and then NW to east of Mardi Himal to a Col at about 5000m on 5th Oct. Then started snowing so much could not go on with sirdar and cook because now technical climbing involved. Camped there to see how weather developed.

  But now porters had deserted (on 27th Sept) and LO had turned back. Scots had been ferrying loads themselves.

  Were exhausted from carrying loads and feared snow conditions on mountain impossible. Dumped some gear and much food at col and left col on 7th Sept.

  With continuing snowfall, could have gotten trapped in BC area.

  Toyed with idea of northern approach but did not make actual request for permission because of lack of time and funds and still snowing.

  Todd left team about 24 Sept because of miserable conditions apparently.


  Cherry - 30 Sept 85

  Cummings of Annapurna III returned to KTM 27 Sept before team reached BC. Said expedition would not come off - did not have enough money and not capable of climb.

  Porters report Scots buying and smoking hash.


expid: DHA185303
peakid: DHA1
year: 1985
route1: E Face-NE Ridge
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Stane Belak
sponsor: Slovene Dhaulagiri E Face Expedition
approach: Pokhara->Ghorapani->Kalapani->BC (plateau at bottom of face)
bcdate: 1985-09-18
smtdate: 1985-10-27
termdate: 1985-11-01
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to ice cold winds and bad weather
campsites: BC(18/09,4100m),C1(02/10,5900m),Biv(26/10,7000m),xxx(27/10,7600m)
accidents: 2 members got slight frostbite (very lucky)
routememo:
  BC east of glacier east of mountain
  C1 at 5900m at plateau at bottom of face.

  May put supply cache on NE Ridge, may go on ridge in acclimatization. Snow ridge on face will probably be route and this is very steep ice from 6200m to 7200m. Will join NE Ridge at 7500m.

  2.8m deep snow at BC. Did not go to left of 1980 route because icefall is there. Only fixed rope was 200m very low on mountain. Most of climbing began midnight and climbed all night. 1st days in BC raining all the time and when climbing began were only 4 men (Beg and Brisar decided not to). At first was hard rock climbing, then heavy long snowfall and were on deep avalanching snow on same feature. After C1 established again much snow and 16 Oct started up to plateau. 24 Oct up from C1 for 1st time: to 7000m via normal route to acclimatize. 26 started up face and made biv at 7000m and 27 Oct to 7600m to ridge and [planned to] biv over on ridge but wind so strong had to descend at 3:00 am. Next 5 days terrible winds.

  Fierce cold winds following many days of new snow and planned only 1 month on mountain. Now food exhausted went to Kalapani after 27 Oct but weather still bad and gave up).

  Belak and Kregar got slight frostbite. "We are lucky men:" very big avalanche 26 Oct ice block just brushed one man. Another time huge serac fell 10 minutes after men crossed beneath. Many snow avalanches: climbed on small ridges as much as possible rather than couloirs for safety.


expid: KANC85301
peakid: KANC
year: 1985
route1: W Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Juan Cruz Colinas
sponsor: Spanish Kangchenjunga Expedition 1985
bcdate: 1985-10-05
smtdate: 1985-10-09
termdate: 1985-10-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to deep snow (2 weeks of snow)
campsites: BC(05/10,4900m),ABC(08/10,5200m),C1(12/10,6200m),xxx(09-12/10,6200m)
accidents: None
agency: Journeys Mountaineering & Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at 4900m at Yalung Glacier (used only by Porters after ABC pitched)
  ABC at 5300m at Yalung Glacier
  C1  at 6200m at beginning of face on spur to left of icefall
  High point at C1 site.

  C1 never slept in. All was ready there by 12 Oct as highest fixed camp from which to go to summit in 4 days with tent on Great Shelf but weather turned bad with 3 meters snowfall. Spent days shovelling snow at ABC, sent porters who had stayed at BC for kerosene but porters never returned, so late and gave up attempt, but cleared C1 20 Oct in 2-1/2 to 3-meter deep snow.

  Had planned to climb Kangchenjunga South Summit with American Dee Jackson, but at last minute Jackson unable to come, so changed to less difficult objective Central summit.


  Kangchenjunga Central:

  Gopal [Ganesh] Gurung claims he reached Everest summit on 1984 Dutch expedition and was only climber to do so on this team.

  Juan charged with having climbed Island Peak, Parchamo and Cho Oyu in aut 1984 without permits.


expid: ANN185302
peakid: ANN1
year: 1985
route1: NW Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Jean Troillet
sponsor: Steiner-Troillet Expedition to Annapurna I 1985
bcdate: 1985-09-19
smtdate: 1985-10-25
termnote: Abandoned at 5600m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(19/09,3900m),Dep(26/09,5100m),xxx(25/10,5600m)
accidents: None
routememo:
  BC at same as theirs in 1984 (below Messner's this spring)
  Deposit just below face
  High point at bottom of face.

  Maximum 3 bivouacs up, one on way down ridge to NW Face. Route same as their 1984 attempt. Last time caught in storm and frostbite. This time will take more food so can stay longer and have special pills to dilate blood vessels in feet and hands to reduce threat of frostbite. Route is to left of Messner's successful 1985 spring route.

  25th Oct 3:00 am started up face from deposit. Climbed 500m then Troillet not feeling well and wind blown snow unstable (could avalanche) and then turned back to BC. Too dangerous for only 2 men on this big face. No wind but every afternoon snow and sometimes had. Actually on mountain only few hours. Spent 20 days in a row BC waiting for improved weather.

  Spent almost entire month at BC waiting for snow to stabilize. New snow almost every day. Got only to 5600m at foot of NW Face.


expid: DHA185302
peakid: DHA1
year: 1985
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Peter Habeler
sponsor: Tirolean-Bavarian Dhaulagiri Expedition
countries: W Germany
approach: Beni->Myagdi Khola
bcdate: 1985-09-15
smtdate: 1985-09-24
termdate: 1985-09-25
termnote: Abandoned at 5400m due to constant snowfall and lack of manpower
campsites: BC(15/09,5000m),ABC(17/09,5200m),xxx(24/09,5400m)
accidents: None
routememo:
  BC  south of French Pass
  ABC along icefall south of BC (by Habeler, Dacher and Nima Tenzing)
  High point at beside icefall.

  The three men stayed in ABC two nights, then down to BC and visit to Czechoslovak BC. After returning to their own BC, Habeler packed up and left expedition (on 21st Sept, Nima says; on 23rd Habeler said on 27 Sept 85) while Dacher and Nima returned to ABC. 

  Dacher and Nima tried to reach NE Col but in 4 hours climbing made little progress because difficult to cross icefall and much snowfall and returned to BC. They had no fixed ropes and plan had been for Habeler and Dacher to climb alone, leaving Nima at BC.


  27 Sept 85

  Put ABC at foot of French Pass, and was looking for way through glacier; made ABC 17 Sept.

  Habeler left 4 days ago. No higher camp possible in so much snowfall. Dacher and Nima Sherpa will go to NE Col and then Dacher tries solo ascent. Has unlimited time.

  Every day lot of snow. Have never seen avalanches like these on Dhaulagiri; every 2-3 hours
  that mountain loses its snow.


expid: TILI85301
peakid: TILI
year: 1985
route1: NE Ridge-N Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Jose Luis Garcia Sanchez
sponsor: Val d'Aran to Himalaya - Tilicho
approach: Marshyangdi->Tilicho Lake
bcdate: 1985-10-05
smtdate: 1985-10-26
termnote: Abandoned at 6750m due to snow
campsites: BC(05/10,4920m),C1(24/10,6200m),xxx(26/10,6750m)
accidents: Very slight frostbite in Tenzing's finger
routememo:
  BC northwest end of Tilicho Lake
  C1 at top of NW Ridge.

  27 Sept porters left baggage at Tilicho Lake south end, one day before BC because deep snow so took expedition to ferry loads to BC seven days. Then 6 Oct began to snow heavily again and stopped only on 21 Oct. 

  22 Oct tried to make fast push to top by Beltran, Granizo Maldonado, Roca Egea and Tenzing from BC in alpine-style, but too deep snow and turned back at 6000m. 

  25 Oct a huge black bird pushed gas and food down mountain and team in C4 (where these supplies were) were unable to have hot drink. Despite this loss, they attempted summit but now very cold and wind very strong. 

  Now expedition unable to mount new summit bid: no more time and with cold and wind, snow blown away leaving very difficult hard ice. Summer weather to winter weather (Tilicho Lake green grass on arrival: 4 days alter 1-1/2 m snow).

  9th Oct big avalanche off NW Face came near BC, hurt no one but wind and powder snow damaged BC. Very slight frostbite in Tenzing's fingers 26 Oct.


expid: NILN85301
peakid: NILN
year: 1985
route1: N Face-W Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Danuta Wach
sponsor: Women's Himalayan Expedition Nilgiri N 1985
approach: Kali Gandaki->Marpha
bcdate: 1985-10-21
smtdate: 1985-11-12
termdate: 1985-11-13
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to snow conditions and lack of time
campsites: BC(21/10,3800m),C1(22/10,5100m),C2(25/10,5700m),C3(07/11,6000m),xxx(12/11,6200m)
routememo:
  BC 300m below spring 1985 Polish expedition
  C1 on centrol ridge of North Face (left side of ridge)
  C2 on this ridge or pillar below its top
     Polish spring 1985 C3 site, she thought (but spring expedition said 5600m)
  High point at 6200m traverse to West Ridge.

  Very deep snow made central ridge/pillar very different from spring 1985 as described by Polish expedition of that season not climbing but wading. Spring expedition fixed ropes 1 meter under snow. Turned back because of deep snow on 12 Nov. Had hoped to make alpine-style climb and move quickly but snow conditions made this impossible. Had many avalanches to left of their route and stones falling across route in its traverse towards West Ridge.

accidents:
  Some illness but not related to altitude: 1 heart problem, 1 serious infection requiring operation at BC; nothing else


expid: HIME85301
peakid: HIME
year: 1985
route1: S Face-SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Nobuyuki Takeda
sponsor: Yamagata Climbing Club Himalchuli Expedition 1985
ascent1: 6th
approach: Bhote Odar->Dordi Khola
bcdate: 1985-08-30
smtdate: 1985-10-16
smttime: 1100
termdate: 1985-10-20
campsites:
  BC(30/08,4800m),C1(09/09,5700m),C2(15/09,6200m),C3(25/09,6700m),C4(14/10,7400m),Smt(16/10),Biv(16-17/10,7500m),Biv(16-18/10,7400m)

routememo:
  BC east of ridge coming south from West Peak
  C1 at east side of South Ridge = South Face
  C2 at east side of South Ridge = South Face
  C3 on SW Ridge
  C4 at north side of West Ridge near its junction with SW Ridge and South Ridge.

  After C3, returned to BC for "holiday" and then when went back up to C1 and C2 very bad weather (much snow and much wind), so had spend 5 days in C2. Got to C3 13th Oct. On top 16th Oct at 11:00 am in clear weather that morning until just below summit. On top white-out and descent in "big trouble." Okamoto and Takeda 2-day bivouac at 7500m while others on 16th descending had 3-day bivouac at 7300m in traverse from C4. All safely below BC 22nd Oct. BC to C3 rock and snow C3 to summit was 4 km snow plateau of deep snow which took much energy. Technically not difficult.

accidents:
  Moti Lal bad frostbite and Takiguchi less frostbite during 3-day bivouac; Saito bad altitude sickness in C4


expid: GAUR85401
peakid: GAUR
year: 1985
route1: A ridge on SW Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Seo Jeong-Bae
sponsor: 1985-86 Korean Gaurishankar Winter Expedition
ascent1: 3rd
bcdate: 1985-12-16
smtdate: 1986-01-16
accidents: Lee Hee-Bong sick 10 days; Seong slight frostbite one finger
campsites:
  BC(16/12,4800m),BC2(18/12,5250m),BC3(21/12,5200m),C1(27/12,5800m),C2(06/01,6300m),C3(13/01,6800m),Smt(16/01)

routememo:
  1st BC just below border on Schneider map halfway between O & L of Rolwaling
  2nd BC east of 1st BC, NNE of L
  3rd BC north of point 6037m on Tseringma Glacier.

  Most difficult between 3rd BC and C1: very steep rock. Above this sharp ridge of ice, snow and rock mixed. Ridge better than Roskelley route because not his route all ice face. Followed exactly same line as Ang Kami and Culbreth followed in 1984 spring. Had lot of snowfall and had to send to KTM twice for more food and gas, and even so were running out of food and fuel by mid-January, so no other summit bids. Also had 3 days wind and snow about 27 Dec and tents broken. 

  16 January Jangbu went with summit pair to 150m below top, then turned back because boots letting in too much cold.


expid: AMAD85401
peakid: AMAD
year: 1985
route1: NE Face up; SW Ridge down
nation: USA
leaders: Carlos Paltenghe Buhler
sponsor: American-Canadian Winter Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 45th
countries: Canada
approach: Island Peak->Chhukung
bcdate: 1985-11-20
smtdate: 1985-12-07
smttime: 1000
termdate: 1985-12-08
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(20/11,4500m),ABC(27/11,5030m),Biv1(30/11,5500m),...,Biv7(06/12,6700m),Smt(07/12)
achievment: 1st ascent of NE Face
routememo:
  BC  at Sanjo (near Dingboche)
  ABC at bottom of face.

  1st climbed Island peak then carried to ABC and watched the NE Face (Chhukung Face). Started up on 30 Nov and completed ascent at 10:00 am on 7 Dec spent 45-60 minutes on top and descended normal route, reached New Zealanders C1 at 8:00 pm (had difficult time seeing it in very dark night). Difficult route: delicate climbing upper section had vertical parts, very steep rock with a little bit of ice on it, "insecure, no protection." No possibility of survival in descending face, where had no fixed ropes at all. Was very very cold but got up more quickly then, feared night. Most days climbed 6-7 hrs.

  Route would be too dangerous in spring and autumn from falling ice, rock and perhaps seracs and from got stuck in snowfall with all snow from sailing through one chute at bottom of face.


  The Northeast Face of Ama Dablam Expedition Report by Carlos Buhler

  Ama Dablam is among the most striking peaks on earth; a sheer, glistening tooth reaching 22,349 ft above sea level. My first view of the mountain was in April 1980, as I struggled to the summit of nearby Baruntse. Of all the peaks I could see on the jagged Himalayan skyline. Ama Dablam stood out. Its modest size, by Himalayan standards, was more than compensated for by its matchless profile.

  In Oct, 1984, Michael Kennedy agreed to join me on this two person adventure. Within his comprehensive slide collection, we came up with our first and only photograph of the face. It was a view from fives miles away and did not show the bottom third of the mountain. But with this photograph, and a tremendous spirit of adventure, we departed on Oct 24, 1985 for KTM, Nepal.

  Accompanying us on the 120-mile approach were Michael's wife, Julie, my mother, Julie Dougherty, and my brother, Roman. With such a closely knit group, here could hardly have been a better way to prepare for the unknown.

  Well looked after by our Sherpa staff, we arrived in BC on Nov 20th. Our first view of the face was one we will never forget. We were sure there was a possible route to the summit; the paramount question, however was whether the winter weather and snow conditions would allow for a safe ascent.

  We acclimatized as fully as possible by ascending Kala Pattar with all the family members and Island Peak accompanied by Michael's wife, Julie, before wishing them a safe return journey to KTM. After two days of rest, we moved up to an advanced camp at 16,400 ft beneath the North Ridge of Ama Dablam.

  Our exploration of the Northeast Face's lower gullies and slopes during the next two days convinced us that a route was, indeed, feasible. On Nov 30 we set off with seven days of food and fuel and bivouacked at a small cache we had left the day before, at the start of the steepening wall.

  Over the next seven days we enjoyed only about for hours of sun each morning. The temperature dropped well below 0 degrees during the shaded afternoons, and we found ourselves straining to keep our body core temperatures high enough to climb.

  The terrain was predominantly snow and ice, interspersed with short bands of thin, delicate ice cover steep snow ribs we followed in the center of the face. Good bivouacs were essential, allowing us to consume enough fluids and calories to ward off frostbite, high altitudes illness and general exhaustion.

  At 10:30 am Dec 7, we reached the summit of Ama Dablam. Despite some scary winds early in the morning, it turned into a perfectly clear, calm day. We photographed the spectacular peaks surrounding us for 45 minutes, and then began our descent of the Southwest Ridge. Utilizing some fixed ropes that had been left in place during the fall season, as well as those of a New Zealand team attempting a winter ascent of that route, we reached 17,000 feet on the same day. The next morning, Ang Jangbu and his father, Norbu, met us with prayer scarves, food and walking shoes for the hike down to their home in the Sherpa village of Pangboche.

  That night, sheltered in the caccoon of warm Sherpa household, exhaustion from the past week's mental and physical pressure was overshadowed by an immense inner feeling of satisfaction and accomplishment. Slowly, the realization of our dreams began to dawn on us. We had done it: we had explored a new route, in winter, to the summit of Ama Dablam.


expid: ANN185401
peakid: ANN1
year: 1985
route1: S Face (Polish rte)
nation: Bulgaria
leaders: Boyan Atanassov
sponsor: Bulgarian Winter Expedition Annapurna I
bcdate: 1985-11-10
smtdate: 1986-01-25
termdate: 1986-02-22
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due bad weather and then end of season with 1 week's extension
campsites: BC(10/12,4200m),C1(15/12,5400m),C2A(21/12,6200m),C2B(28/12,6400m),C3(22/01,6850m),xxx(25/01,7300m)
accidents: None resulting in injury or serious frostbite or illness
achievment: 1st Bulgarian attempt
routememo:
  BC at 4200m at Annapurna Sanctuary
  C1 at 5400m at ice cave
  C3 at 6850m at ice cave.

  Planned to establish C4 at 7750m and then to middle summit and main summit. Weather was "awful" from 24th Dec to 2nd Jan. Heavy snowfall and again 25th Jan to 22nd Feb with also strong winds and low temperature as well; more than 2 meters snow covered all camps. Technically route not so difficult: usual climbing but snow was main problem even between C1 and C2 with 2m snow causing avalanche danger, where none normally exists.

  No accidents resulting in injury or serious frostbite or illness. 1 member went to Pokhara rest before climb finished including one with lung problem from altitude and cold (he is now recovered and will return to climb in spring season).


expid: CHOY85401
peakid: CHOY
year: 1985
route1: W Ridge-W Face
route2: SW side to N Face
nation: Canada
leaders: Roger Marshall
sponsor: International Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 17th
countries: Czechoslovakia, UK, USA
bcdate: 1985-11-26
smtdate: 1985-12-05
campsites: BC(26/11,5200m),ABC(27/11,5600m),Biv1-4,Smt(05/12)
routememo:
  BC near Kangchung - as far as yaks could go Dzasampa.

  All in BC by 29 Nov and all 6 to Dzampa on 30th. On 1 Dec set off in 3 pairs taking different lines looking for best way up. Czechs got 1/2-day ahead of Burgess and Marshall while 2 Americans lost 2-3 days on wrong approach. Czech pair reached summit while Canadian and American pairs, who were slower moving up mountain, did not and had to abandon climb because of lack of food and race against time, fearing more new snowfall would trap them and prevent their getting out alive. Had very difficult time getting load-carrying yaks to low BC in Nov.

  Marshall froze several fingers and one toe on 6 Dec and was developing altitude sickness that day. 1 American getting sick on 7 Dec, Becik very slight frostbite on nose.


  Marshall - 20 Dec 85

  2 Czechoslovaks - Becik and Stejskal:

  1 Dec - biv on Gyabrag Glacier
  2 & 3 Dec - biv at 6400m on Spanish 1984 route
  4 Dec - biv at 7400m on Spanish route
  5 Dec - to summit and returned to 7400m
  6 Dec - biv in descent
  7 Dec - ABC

  Marshall:

  1 Dec - biv on Gyabrag Glacier, just below on Schneider map
  2 Dec - biv just below ridge near Spanish 1984 C2 at 6000-6100m
  3 & 4 Dec - biv at 6800m on Spanish 1984 route
  5 Dec - biv at 7400m above Spanish 1984 C4 (on their route)
  6 Dec - very cold (-40 to -50 degrees in the morning) and both men had headaches,
          Marshall blurred vision, so instead of going for summit as planned, 
          they descended

  Marshall got frostbitten fingers and toe on 6th Dec; they had taken only 5 days food with them and had none above ABC so abandoned climb especially in light of Marshall's frostbite.


  Athans - 20 Dec 85

  2 Americans - Athans and Ballenger

  1 Dec - made carry towards North Face and returned to ABC
  2 Dec - at ABC
  3 Dec - biv on moraine at 5900-6000m north of point 6446 and of rocky area
  4 Dec - climbed due east to about 6400m just below col of 6517m south
          of Palung Ri, then returned to bivouac site of 3 Dec.
  5 Dec - biv in moraine of Gyabrag Glacier sout of U on Schneider map, at bottom
          and south of triangular rock almost east of "c" in Glacier's name.
  6 Dec - biv at 6800m on Spanish 1984 route at same site as Canadian pair
          biv of 3 and 4 Dec
  7 Dec - descended (attempted abandoned)

accidents:
  Marshall froze several fingers and one toe on Dec 6 and was developing altitude sickness that day; 1 American getting sick on Dec 7; Becik very slight frostbite on nose


expid: MAKA85401
peakid: MAKA
year: 1985
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiroyuki Baba
sponsor: Japan Winter Mt. Makalu Expedition
bcdate: 1985-11-21
smtdate: 1985-12-23
termdate: 1985-12-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7520m due to winds that destroyed four tents
campsites: BC(21/11,4800m),ABC(28/11,5300m),C1(02/12,5900m),C2(11/12,6600m),C3(15/12,7140m),xxx(23/12,7520m)
accidents: None
routememo:
  BC  at Barun Pokhari
  ABC just north of Chago Barun Glacier junction
  C1  on glacier's east fork
  C2  again east on next branch of glacier
  C3  below Makalu La and southeast of it
  High point at NW Ridge.

  4 tent poles broken by winds in several camps and BC camp tent picked up by wind. Route easy, constant strong winds. Babu and Nishimura descended directly to BC on Dec 24 and no more climbing. Left BC Dec 26, but heavy snowfall that day made retreat very difficult, "snow-swimming." Had fixed 1000m rope from C2 to highest point.


expid: KTEG85401
peakid: KTEG
year: 1985
route1: SW Face-S Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Dae-Seok
sponsor: Korean Winter Himalaya Kangtega Expedition
ascent1: 4th
approach: Lukla->Monjo
bcdate: 1985-12-04
smtdate: 1985-12-31
campsites: BC(04/12,4450m),C1(08/12,4750m),C2(10/12,5250m),C3(29/12,5800m),Smt(31/12)
accidents: None
achievment: 1st Korean ascent; new route; 1st winter ascent
routememo:
  BC at southwest end of Kyashar Glacier
  C3 on South Ridge.

  C2 and C3 vertical (80-90 degrees and overhung) rock and ice so very difficult and 1000m fixed rope needed and snow avalanching destroyed same of it. C1 to C2 and C4 to top fairly easy. Tents broken at C1 by avalanches from Thamserku and at BC by strong wind. No fixed rope left for use above C3 despite danger in not having it.

  Delay making C3 due to extreme delay of baggage from Korea by ship and overland to Kathmandu. Leader and Roh arrived BC 20 Dec with this baggage; other members had taken purchases from KTM to make lower camps and await their arrival via Puma helicopter.

  Had planned second summit attack, but bad weather (strong wind and snowfall) meant it was called off and expedition ended.


expid: KARY85401
peakid: KARY
year: 1985
route1: NE Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Young-Ho
sponsor: Korean-Nepalese Joint Karyolung Winter Expedition
approach: Junbesi
bcdate: 1986-01-08
smtdate: 1986-01-25
termdate: 1986-01-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to bad weather, manpower depleted
campsites: BC(08/01,4100m),C1(10/01,4900m),C2(15/01,5600m),xxx(25/01,6400m)
achievment: 1st Korean attempt on mountain
routememo:
  BC northwest of Lum Teng (between Lum Teng and point 4698 on Schneider map)
  C1 at same site as Japanese 1982 on narrow ridge bet "g & G of Karyolung Glacier
  C2 after traverse to northeast from C1 to site E of "H" of Shorang Himal
  High point at north of summit.

  Climb started late because leader had accident during autumn trek. Left KTM only on 3 Jan.

  Three summit bids: 

  20 Jan on Japanese route to 6200m, but blue ice turned party back. 

  22 Jan on right side of Japanese route to north of summit, but again turned back this time by 3m wide crevasse and all to BC. 

  23 Jan Ko and Ahn to C1, followed 24 Jan Pasang and Ang Tsering to C2. 25 Jan 4:00 am Ko and 2 Sherpas set out for summit and at overhang near crevasse Ko took hours to make route and Ang Tshering turned back early evening and in descent serac hit Ko's arm. 

  26 Jan snowfall and all BC waiting better weather but now Pasang and Ang Tsering not in good condition and manpower depleted, bad weather.

accidents:
  Ko arm broken; leader's feet not recovered fully from trekking accident; sirdar sick and did no climbing


expid: MANA85401
peakid: MANA
year: 1985
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Noboru Yamada
sponsor: Manaslu Japanese Winter Expedition
ascent1: 26th
approach: Helicopter->Samagaon
bcdate: 1985-12-05
smtdate: 1985-12-14
smttime: 1140
termdate: 1985-12-15
campsites: BC(05/12,4800m),Biv1(06/12,5350m),Biv2(07/12,6150m),Biv3(08/12,7000m),Biv4(13/12,7050m),Smt(14/12)
accidents: Saito some frostbite on side of nose on summit day
achievment: 1st Japanese winter ascent
routememo:
  BC   half day above Samagaon
  Biv1 near Naike col
  Biv2 on NE Face
  Biv4 in crevasse on face (no wind in crevasse).

  9th Dec first summit attempt reached 7200m, then high wind and very cold and returned to BC same day. 10th Dec BC and 11th Dec up again to 6150m biv site of 7th Dec. 12th Dec little snowfall and did not move 14th Dec, 8-1/2 hours climb to top. Left biv at 3:20 am and on top 11:40 am in strong wind. Near top very cold wind. That night in 13th Dec bivouac which reached 3:30 pm but no food since had spent extra day on ascent. 15th Dec to BC, where only 1 tent and 1 Sherpa, and on to Samagaon, which left 17th Dec. Technically not difficult but too far from last bivouac point to top. Below 7000m not colder than autumn, but above very cold and windy.

  No fixed ropes used, true alpine-style climb.

  At summit found match box with names and date of 11 May 1956 summiters in Peace and cigarettes with stones (probably from Japan).


  The Iwa-to-Yuki 

  The author and Yasuhira made an alpine-style ascent of Manaslu in Dec 1985. This was the second winter ascent, following that of the Poles. Yamada climbed K2 in July and Everest in Oct, both without oxygen, and then made elaborate plans for the perfect alpine-style ascent of Manaslu. Yamada and Saito helicoptered to Sama on Dec 2nd to join the sirdar and loads, having caravaned beforehand. BC was made on Dec 5th. They set about climbing next day, but the weather deteriorated three days later and forced them to retreat from 7200m. Taking one day's rest at BC, they later resumed activity and after three bivouacs reached the summit at 11:40 am, Dec 13th. On the top they found a tin for cigarettes containing the register of the Japanese party which had made the first ascent of the mountain. This was a big bonus for their remarkable feat of this time.


expid: MAKA85402
peakid: MAKA
year: 1985
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Reinhold Messner
sponsor: Messner Makalu Expedition
countries: Austria, France
bcdate: 1986-01-16
smtdate: 1986-02-09
termdate: 1986-02-12
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to strong winds
campsites: BC(16/01,4900m),ABC(25/01,6000m),C1(08/02,7000m),xxx(09/02,7500m)
accidents: None
routememo:
  BC  at lower classical BC site
  ABC at normal C1 at base of West Face
  C1  at normal C4 site
  High point at plateau.

  Wind broke tents at ABC and had to retreat. On 3rd Feb went up again (Hans and Messner following Moro and Sherpas who pitched new tent at ABC). On 4th Feb Hans, Reinhold and 4 Sherpas to 7000m but no tents pitched because too strong wind (Hans buried in crevasse one Frenchman from Makalu II autumn 1985) and returned to ABC. 

  On 8th Feb again up to 7000m early on the only really fine day of the climb. Slept there with 2 Sherpas and 2 film-team men. 9th Feb started 2-day push to top with 2 Sherpas carrying and cameraman following part way. At noon Hans and Reinhold reached Makalu 7410m col and 1 hr higher, saw no possibility of going higher still in cloud-obscured route and high wind, so turned back. Were on plateau mostly green ice. Returned to 7000m camp where now begining to snow and descended to ABC on same day. On 11th still snowing and descended to BC where more than half meter of snow.

  No accidents, etc.
  3 cameramen went above ABC

  Found bodies of Frenchmen Pierre Demolombe and Marcel Margaine on Kangchungtse at 7100m and 7450m.


expid: AMAD85402
peakid: AMAD
year: 1985
route1: SW Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Geoffrey Gabites
sponsor: New Zealand Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Australia, UK
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1985-11-27
smtdate: 1985-12-11
termdate: 1985-12-14
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to wind, impending storm, bad health of members
campsites: BC(27/11,4570m),C1(01/12,5430m),C2(05/12,6100m),xxx(11/12,6100m)
routememo:
  BC at Mingbo (English went more slowly to BC on 30 Dec)
  C1 at normal site east of South Ridge
  C2 at end of horizontal section
  High point at yellow step.

  6 Dec Gabites and Staszewski were to go to top but had moved up too fast and Staszewski clearly sick from altitude and Gabites spent rest of day bringing Staszewski from C2 to 19,000 ft on horizontal section. Next day English and Perry joined in getting him to BC in bad condition. 

  8 Dec English to C1 and on 9th Perry and Gabites joined him there. 10 Dec the three got to 19,000 ft on horizontal section when strong wind forced them to camp there at 11:00 am; 2:00 pm Perry decided to descend with chest infection while other two stayed all night in continued strong wind. 11 Dec big clouds plus up high strong wind, went along ridge to just below yellow step when winds struck and appeared storm coming up so English opposed to going on (were without sleeping bags and it appeared would have to spend 2 nights out) so turned back and by 4:00 pm English blown off ridge, fortunately clipped to fixed rope and camped again.  

  12th Dec carried gear to C1 and to BC 13th Dec.


  English - 22 Dec 85

  English feels that Gabites and others rushed too fast to and on the mountain. They had rigid pre-set time table that required them to climb mountain very quickly (like Nairz's party in aut '85) and be finished by the time the wives, girlfriends and children arrived. Time table did not take into consideration the health of individuals the health of individuals and their time requirements for acclimatizing. English had booked return LUK/KTM for 4 Jan and was astonished to learn on 11 Dec when he and Gabites debated whether to continue push for top or go down in face of storm brewing up that yaks had been ordered to come to BC on 17 Dec.

accidents:
  Staszewski edema (could never have been gotten down if had been no fixed ropes on horizontal section)


expid: KANG85401
peakid: KANG
year: 1985
route1: SW Face
nation: Poland
leaders: Andrzej Machnik
sponsor: Polish-American Winter Kangchenjunga Expedition
ascent1: 19th
countries: Brazil, UK, USA
bcdate: 1985-12-09
smtdate: 1986-01-11
smttime: 1330
achievment: 1st winter ascent; 1st Polish ascent
campsites:
  BC(09/12,4700m),ABC(10/12,5100m),C1(15/12,6200m),C2(20/12,6700m),C3(02/01,7250m),C4(10/01,7750m),Smt(11/01)

routememo:
  BC at 4700m Ramzar
  AC at 5100m 200-300m below Japanese BC and same site as Polish, Yalungkang 1985
  C3 at Great Shelf or a bit above it.

  Kukuczka and Wielicki arrived BC 20 Dec. Team to BC for Christmas climb. Only 4 high camps because problem with tents which frequently broken by wind and heavy snow, but still summiters went to top and back from C4 in same day. Found 3 yellow oxygen bottles on top. Difficult last mixed limbing to top and old ropes were very helpful to indicate which way to summit. Were crevasses causing difficulty in lower part of climb. 4 men went to C4 but Czok coughing, not feeling well and on 11th he went down with Piasecki while Kukuczka and Wielicki to top. 

  No more summit attempts. Kukuczka, Wielicki, Czok and Piasecki had on 3 Jan carried to C4, slept C3, and planned to occupy C4 on 4th, but weather bad on 4th and all 4 down to BC.


  Kangchenjunga, Lorentz - 7 Jan 86

  Base at Ramche yak huts 
  ABC 5200m by advance party about 5 Dec
  C1 6100m
  C2
  C3 on Great Shelf established about 20 Dec

  Kukuczka and Wielicki arrived ABC about 22 Dec and would have taken only 2 days to get to C4.

  Weather very good untll Xmas Eve; snow up to knees at Ramche on 27th and shoulder high 2 days later when he had left Ramche.
  All well, no one ill, no accidents.
  Surely going to succeed.

accidents:
  Czok very weak (carried to C3 and died Jan 11 at about 10:00 pm of pulmonary edema); Wielicki some frostbitten toes which will heal


expid: DHA185401
peakid: DHA1
year: 1985
route1: E Face-NE Ridge (Macintyre Polish 1980 rte)
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Jean Troillet
sponsor: Swiss Dhaulagiri Winter Expedition
ascent1: 29th
approach: Lete->Kalopani
bcdate: 1985-11-16
smtdate: 1985-12-08
smttime: 1324
termdate: 1985-12-10
campsites: BC(16/11,4100m),Biv1(01/12,5700m),Biv2(07/12,7700m),Smt(08/12)
accidents: Only tiny frostbites
achievment: 1st winter ascent of East Face
routememo:
  BC   at 4100m very near Yugoslav BC Aut 1985
  Biv2 at 7700m just 100m below where they joined ridge.

  In last days of Nov, looked around glacier, found couloir as ascent route and did some training. Started up on 1st Dec and on 2nd explored in areas of Biv1. 3rd back to BC after deciding on 2nd that route wanted to follow to left of MacIntyre route because too exposed for light, fast climb. Up again on 6th Dec at 12:30 am and reached to Biv1 at 6:00 am. Next day left 00:01 hrs. Climbed at night because in day light looking up too depressing to see how far you still have to go. 8th Dec left Biv2 at 9:30 am and got to top at 1:24 pm and down NE Ridge till returned to Biv1 site at 5700m at midnight 9th Dec at BC.

  Morani didn't feel well, not strong; left BC 5 Dec.

  Only 2 bivouacs: 1 on Col and 1 on face at about 7000m. Will start climbing at night with head lamps. During acclimatization in Nov will cache equipment at bottom of face (down from Col on large plateau at bottom of face). May climb to left of MacIntyre-Kurtyka route and reach summit via SE Ridge. Technical problems not great: the problem is the wind, so lost part of climb at highest altitude most exposed to wind, most difficult.


expid: PUMO86402
peakid: PUMO
year: 1986
route1: SW Ridge
route2: E Face
nation: USA
leaders: Todd Bibler
sponsor: American Pumori Expedition Winter 1986
ascent2: 27th
bcdate: 1986-11-25
smtdate: 1986-12-05
smttime: 1115
termdate: 1986-12-07
campsites: BC(25/11,5200m),Biv1(01/12,5900m),Biv2(04/12,6080m),Smt(05/12)
accidents: Dimitri stomach trouble
achievment: 2nd solo ascent
agency: Trekking & Expedition Services (TES)
routememo:
  BC   at Gorak Shep
  Biv1 on SW Ridge
  Biv2 on East Face.

  29th Nov carried load to SW Ridge and 1 Dec camped on this ridge at 5900m. 2 Dec to BC because Mike sick. Todd then decided he could solo East Face, which Japanese had just finished climbing. 4 Dec Bibler started up face without gear had left at SW Ridge. Had tent sleeping bag but no rope. No wind at all (slept with door of tent open). 5 Dec to summit and back to BC.

  Dimitri still sick and left BC 6 Dec (an Everest LO had come to BC and said since mountain had been climbed by face, they could not attempt summit via ridge). 7 Dec Bibler up ridge to retrieve gear at 5900m (and at 6100m which Bibler had dumped on 2 Dec before descent that day).


expid: NUPT86401
peakid: NUPT
year: 1986
route1: S Spur
nation: USA
leaders: Jeff Lowe, Marc Twight
sponsor: American Winter Nuptse Expedition
approach: Chusking
bcdate: 1986-12-05
smtdate: 1986-12-31
termdate: 1987-01-02
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to insufficient strength (gastro-intestinal illness)
campsites: BC(05/12,5200m),xxx(31/12,6700m)
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC at west side of Lhotse Nuptse Glacier.

  Left BC on 22 Dec. Made only temporary bivouac camps between 5790m and 6700m from 22nd Dec to 1st Jan. Climbed without fixed rope or camps. Descended from 6700m to BC on 1 and 2 Jan. Abandoned climb due to insufficient strength to reach summit.


expid: MAKA86401
peakid: MAKA
year: 1986
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Noboru Yamada
sponsor: Japan Winter Makalu Expedition
bcdate: 1986-11-16
smtdate: 1986-12-09
termdate: 1986-12-19
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to bad weather, exhaustion and lack of food
campsites: BC(16/11,4800m),Biv1(01/12,6650m),Biv2(07/12,6800m),Biv3(08/12,7400m),xxx(09,11/12,7500m)
accidents: None
agency: Express
routememo:
  BC   just south of Barun Pokhari
  Biv1 at South Col
  Biv2 just below SE Ridge on variation of normal route
  Biv3 on SE Ridge
  High point at SE Ridge.

  Until end Nov did acclimatization climbs from BC. 1st Dec started up first 3 days slept on S Col while went above and then down to BC leaving tent at Col packed up. 6th Dec up again in summit bid and slept at S Col. 7th Dec up by variation of normal route (descended normal way). 9th Dec to 7500m on ridge but not possible to go further because of wind (not terribly strong) and clouds that badly restricted visibility ("we could not see"), so returned to 7400m to sleep. 10th Dec stayed at 7400m, again windy (strong wind now) and cloudy. 11th Dec again to 7500m but down (now lightly snowing and cloudy) to 7200m. 12th Dec to BC in strong wind at 11:00 pm arrival. Waited till 19th (20th clear weather!). Not difficult route. Did not attempt S Face at all (original objective); decided impossible for 2-man team in winter.


expid: PUMO86401
peakid: PUMO
year: 1986
route1: E Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Kazuyuki Takahashi
sponsor: Kamoshika Dojin Winter Pumori
ascent1: 26th
bcdate: 1986-11-24
smtdate: 1986-12-03
termdate: 1986-12-05
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (Sasahara and Takahashi) and Mera Peak (Aota)
campsites: BC(24/11),ABC(30/11,5400m),Biv1(01/12,6150m),Biv2(02/12,6600m),Smt(03/12)
accidents: None
achievment: 1st ascent of East Face
agency: Ama Dablam Trekking
routememo:
  BC at east side of small lake southeast of point 5527m.

  First tried rock band to 5800 or 5900m and then abandoned this line as too steep, so descended 200m to line actually followed which was all ice climbing. This mixture meant lost time. Had planned only 1 bivouac at 6600m. Ice climbing was sometimes dangerous from avalanche. Knife ridge in area of 1st bivouac; also there was rock falling. This route for 2-3 days rapid alpine-style ascent. 3rd Dec went to summit and back to 2nd bivouac. 4th Dec to BC at Gorak Shep. Descent route slight variation because seemed little easier.

  Takashi caught cold on Island Peak and did not go to Pumori.


expid: LOBW86401
peakid: LOBW
year: 1986
route1: E Face (with some variation)
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Hee-Bong
sponsor: Korean Lobuche (West) Winter Expedition
ascent1: 2nd
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1987-01-27
smtdate: 1987-01-30
smttime: 1250
termdate: 1987-01-31
campsites: BC(27/01,4900m),C1(28/01,5400m),C2(29/01,5700m),Smt(30/01)
agency: Adventure Nepal
routememo:
  BC at 4900m at Lobuche Glacier
  C1 at 5400m on East Face
  C2 at 5700m on East Face.

  Entirely alpine-style climb above C2 (i.e., no fixed ropes). Summit party left summit 12:50 pm and cleared mountain as they descended to BC, which reached 5:00 pm. BC to C2 600m fixed ropes.

  No other summit bid after 30th Jan because when Lee arrived on 30th Jan at BC learned mountain had been climbed (had been badly delayed getting to BC because food supplies late clearing Calcutta). Expedition left BC 31st Jan. 

  Above C2 is 500m of much crevassed area, face is quite steep and there were difficult ice sections.


expid: AMAD86401
peakid: AMAD
year: 1986
route1: S Face (to right of Yugoslav rte)
nation: France
leaders: Roger Massardier
sponsor: Lyon and Avignon Winter Expedition Nepal 1986-87 to Ama Dablam
bcdate: 1986-11-23
smtdate: 1986-12-10
termdate: 1986-12-13
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to wind, heavy snowfall
othersmts: Had permit for Cholatse (CHOL-864-01)
campsites: BC(23/11,4950m),ABC(04/12,5250m),C1(06/12,5500m),xxx(10/12,6100m)
agency: Sherpa Trekking Service (STS)
routememo:
  BC  at normal site for South Ridge above Mingbo
  ABC near lake at bottom of South Face
  C1  under 1st crevasse at bottom of South Face
  High point on South Face.

  Hoped to make C2 on South Face at about 6100-6200m in route directly up face to summit. Hoped to reach a small span (snow ridge) and put tent there since no place to camp on face at this altitude because very steep (50-80 degrees) but wind drove them back, broke tent at C1. Down to BC then on 12 Dec up again but again wind broke C1 tent and snowfall followed 13th evening. Lot of snow on 14th and 15th so abandoned idea of attempting Cholatse as well. Fixed 1000m on face. Should have made alpine-style ascent in fast climb. A good route.

accidents:
  Massardier fell just above BC on unstable rocks of moriane & broke both the legs on Nov 30; no other problems


expid: NEMJ87101
peakid: NEMJ
year: 1987
route1: S Ridge on right-side of S Face
nation: USA
leaders: Kevin Swigert
sponsor: 1987 American Himlung Expedition
approach: Marshyangdi->Dudh Khola->Bimthang
bcdate: 1987-04-11
smtdate: 1987-04-22
termdate: 1987-04-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to bad weather
accidents: Rosso altitude sickness and other illness (perhaps virus)
agency: Mountain Travel
campsites:
  BC(11/04,4200m),ABC(15/04,4390m),Biv1(18/04,5200m),Biv2(19/04,5600m),Biv3(21/04,5900m),xxx(22/04,6100m)

routememo:
  Expeditions to Himlung prior to 1992 were probably climbing Nemjung.

  Began actual climb on 18th and had series of bivouacs. On 18th climbed Ratna Icefall to 5200m where bivouacked; one tent crushed by avalanche that night and couloir avalanching constantly, but next day not so much avalanche and latter part of the day was ice climbing to 5600m where bivouacked on crest of W Spur of S Ridge (complete S Ridge not possible with so much snowfall). 20th fixed traverse back to main gully and slept at same bivouac. 21st climbed the W Spur to first hanging ice field and open bivouac at 5900m at point where joined S Ridge. Everyone had 60 lb pack on difficult climb. Very brittle ice climbing on 22nd by 2 members and down to 5600m that night. 23rd all to BC in bad weather and Rosso sick.

  Swigert and Tenney could have gone on above 1st hanging glacier (there were 2) but others not able to descend alone on more than 20 300-ft rappels. Now weather had deteriorated and supplies in short supply - storm now broke. "It is beautiful line" up this South Ridge, which is very steep.

  Climbed 6600 ft of mountain and most of it vertical rock and ice both; difficult rock climbing because it is featureless but good granite. Approach route should have been on east side of glacier, west side of South Ridge.


expid: MAKA87102
peakid: MAKA
year: 1987
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Glenn Porzak
sponsor: 1987 American Makalu Expedition
ascent1: 25th,26th
approach: Tumlingtar->Sedua->Shipton's Col
bcdate: 1987-04-03
smtdate: 1987-05-12
smttime: 1115
campsites: BC(03/04,5330m),C1(10/04,6100m),C2(18/04,6600m),C3(29/04,7400m),C4(11/05,7750m),Smt(12,16/05)
accidents: Moti Lal snowblindness on summit; Neptune frostbitten fingers; Porzak fell into crevasse
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC at junction of Barun & Chago Glacier
  C1 near "o" of Chago Glacier
  C2 west-northwest of Makalu La (Messner's C1)
  C3 at Makalu Col
  C4 south of "L" of Makalu La.

  Climb above C2 the difficulty began and fixed rope this section with strenuous jummaring to col. C3 put in on 29th and first summit bid planned to start from there on 30th but 5-day storm began and virus attacked. 2nd May was summit date planned and C4 sited and started with gear. All down to BC. Up again on 7th onwards; had mixed weather conditions with fierce winds on 10th. Left C4 on 12th at 3:30 am and on top 11:15 am in lovely weather following French route basically above C4. Rotten snow on summit ridge down to C2 on 12th summit day. 

  Neptune's party to summit on 16th from Makalu La; on top at 1:40 pm. Had to send people up to get Moti Lal down after got snowblindness and couldn't take care of himself on a mountain, fell several times.

  Virus which ran through team took Read away early and Cooley didn't acclimatize and left early too.


expid: CHOY87103
peakid: CHOY
year: 1987
route1: W Ridge-W Face (Tichy) from S
nation: USA
leaders: Robert Watters
sponsor: 1987 Nevada Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Khumbu Valley->Nangpa La
bcdate: 1987-04-12
smtdate: 1987-04-30
termdate: 1987-05-04
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to bad weather, disappearance of supplies
agency: Mountain Adventure
campsites:
  BC(12/04,5200m),C1(15/04,5400m),C2(19/04,5685m),ABC(21/04,5920m),C4(25/04,6400m),C5(27/04,6800m),C6(29/04,7200m),C7(30/04,7600m),xxx(30/04,7600m)

routememo:
  BC at Kangchung (as far as yaks could go in deep snow)
  C1 at Nangpa Glacier edge near "g" of Nangpa
  C2 at Gyabrag Glacier moraine between "a" "g" Gyabrag
  C3 (ABC) at upper part of Gyabrag Glacier near "c" of Glacier
  C4 just east of point 6446m on ridge
  C5 just below icefall 
  C6 above icefall
  C7 above rock band south of point 7530m.

  At high point stayed 2 nights because of wind and snow. On 2 May down to C5 and down to ABC site on 3rd. Found ABC stripped clean presumably by Chinese, so down to secret Chilean BC2 at 5700m. 4th May to USA C1 and now climb over because of loss of all supplies at USA ABC. An easy peak: hardest section was scree slope 35-degree to C4 but high mountain with winds and storms.


  Watters - 13 May 1987

  April 25, Watters 15 minutes behind other 3 headed to C4, heard shouting and waving arms below at ABC turned back and found there 2 Chinese officials who asked for climbing permit. Watters went for it (and told to other 3 to go on up); then was asked for trekking permit and as he got it out, Chinese saw passport and took it and both permit (also took Chilean documents but not passports).

  Chinese wanted him to come down with them to Chinese army camp near Austrian's BC. Pretended to follow Chinese but actually suddenly went south and left Chinese. Other 3 kept on up: Baker, Grant and Swanson. When they came down, were not caught by Chinese (Baker very early in morning, other 2 in storm).

  See AAJ (1988) for further details of confrontation with Chinese officials.

accidents:
  Tent fire at C5 burned Baker's hands slightly; Gerhauser ill (chest cold) and left expedition early when didn't recover (reached C1 once, was down below BC couple of times, finally left May 2)


expid: CHAM87101
peakid: CHAM
year: 1987
route1: NE Ridge-E Summit
nation: USA
leaders: Richard Hartshorne
sponsor: American Chamlang Expedition of the Juilliard Mountain Club
approach: Hile->Tumlingtar->Sedua->Shershon
bcdate: 1987-04-19
smtdate: 1987-05-02
termdate: 1987-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 6750m due to Deak's frostbite
campsites: BC(19/04,4700m),C1(26/04,5600m),Biv(30/04,6500m),xxx(02/05,6750m)
accidents: Deak frostbitten toes (which should heal completely)
agency: Nepal Himalaya
routememo:
  BC  near Shershon
  C1  above major and minor icefalls where Chamlung Glacier meets Lower Barun
      (base of North Face)
  Biv in ice cave in crevasse.

  Took 3 carries to C1 which was difficult, dangerous and hard to find. "Incredible icefall" at gate between Chamlang and Peak 4. Between BC and C1-C2 avalanche slopes with hanging glaciers above route in this area. All climbing of N Face to ridge done on 30th April in 12 hours to small crevasse bivouac which gave protection from wind (had not carried tent, for reducing weight). Now late in afternoon and exhausted and one day from summit. Planned to eat and rehydrate on 1st May and go to top on 2nd; on afternoon of 30th spent most time sleeping and didn't eat. 3 am 2nd began ascent but weather deteriorating and Deak's toes had started freezing; at 5:30 got to 6750m, turned back in bad storm, paused at ice cave, then on down to C1. 4th went back up but Deak soon realized he could not go on: fell twice from "depletion" of strength and turned back at about 5800m. 4 days at BC but Deak could barely walk from frostbitten toes. Still went up to C1 to recover gear with some hope of continuing climb with Hartshorne. Down to BC on 11th and left BC 13th.
   
  Route made left of Scott 1985 route but essentially same.


expid: JANU87101
peakid: JANU
year: 1987
route1: S Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Hooman Aprin
sponsor: American-British 1987 Expedition to Jannu
countries: UK
bcdate: 1987-04-06
smtdate: 1987-04-27
termdate: 1987-04-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to bad weather and dwindling supplies
accidents: None
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
campsites:
  BC(06/04,4700m),C1(10/04,5400m),C2(21/04,5900m),Biv1(26/04,6100m),Biv2(27/04,6400m),xxx(27/04,6400m)

routememo:
  BC at 1/2 hour from foot of South Face
  C1 at others C2 (on glacier, 1/2 hour before couloir leading to a ridge)
  C2 on next glacier in cirque at base of col 
  Biv1 just below a subsidiary peak
  Biv2 called "Tete de Butoir."

  4 members climbed alpine-style from C2 in 2 days. Then heavy snowfall and avalanche danger and route from involved long traverse under heavily loaded snow slope, so 20th April down to C2 and 1 May to BC and climb ended. Hadn't enough fuel to wait much longer for snow conditions to be safe.

  Aprin: C1 pitched 10th April but occupied only on 13th and again on 26th, when alpine-style attempt began. On 26th ran into technically hardest part on ridge and when ridge eased off, there was deep snow. Bivouacked that night at 6100m. 27th got to 6400m at noon and had to bivouac there. 28th down to C2.

  Abandoned climb on 28th said Aprin, because daily storms with much fresh snow brought serious avalanche threat. Were running out of food and fuel and weather looked like getting bad again (it did).


expid: CHOY87101
peakid: CHOY
year: 1987
route1: W Ridge-W Face (Tichy) from S
nation: Chile
leaders: Mauricio Purto
sponsor: Chilean CAI Cho Oyu 1987
ascent1: 28th w/Swiss
approach: Lukla->Nangpa La
bcdate: 1987-04-03
smtdate: 1987-04-29
smttime: 1300
termdate: 1987-05-07
accidents: 1 member slight frostbite
agency: Kunga
campsites:
  BC(03/04,5200m),C1(12/04,5600m),C2(13/04,5800m),C3(22/04,6600m),C4(26/04,7200m),C5(28/04,7600m),Smt(29/04)

routememo:
  BC at Kangchung
  C1 at Messner's C1 south of Nangpa La
  C2 at base of SW Ridge, east side of Gyabrag Glacier
  C3 at base of icefall southwest of point 6446m
  C4 on NW Face 
  C5 on NW Face.

  Porters crossed Nangpa La, but members followed Messner route across Sentu-Gua Pass. 2 members who did not reach summit on 29th were in C4 on 30th April and 1 May up to C5, waited there 3 days for good weather but it did not come and all met in BC 5th May. Bad weather wind and snow. Essentially were on Tichy route. Descended same way as Messner: came down across Nangpa La. Left BC 7th May. 

  Had slight trouble with Chinese officials. 2 members at C2 that Chinese who had knives and took their trekking permits. Chinese came because Americans had camp on Tibet side; joined Chileans at C5, waited for them to find the way up yellow band.


expid: ANN187102
peakid: ANN1
year: 1987
route1: N Face (French rte)
nation: Spain
leaders: Juan Maldonado
sponsor: Comval Expedition to Annapurna I 1987
approach: Kali Gandaki->Lete->BC via Thulobugin Pass
bcdate: 1987-05-03
smtdate: 1987-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 6850m due to Ferrer's death
campsites: BC(03/05,4250m),C1(07/05,4800m),C2(14/05,5500m),C3(22/05,6800m),xxx(23/05,6850m)
accidents: Ferrer 300m fatal fall
agency: Trans Himalayan Trekking (THT)
routememo:
  BC at 4250m at normal site for N Face climb
  C1 at 4800m below normal C1 site (because of much snow)
  C2 below Dutch Rib
  C3 at 6800m on French route below cycle
  High point on North Face.

  1st tried Dutch Rib for 3 days on left side of rib, but end of rib very difficult and went over to French classical route. At base of rib at 6100m above C2 put temporary camp for climbing rib. 

  Day after C3 reached by 3 members, Ferrer decided to descend because of bad altitude sickness during night and between C2 and C3 he fell 300m while descending alone. People in C2 waited for him; in C1 people saw how he stopped after fall, but no one saw his fall. When did not reach C2 members in C3 came down and found him unconscious and brought him to C2 where doctor was and where there was O2 but he died of fractured skull. Climb abandoned: 2 members went clear C3 while others brought down body.

  On 23rd Maldonado and Villa turned back when were asked by walkie-talkie to see what happened to Ferrer. Would have reached top making C4 on 23rd and C5 on 24th on the way. All difficulties had been surmounted. Ferrer was actually likeliest to have reached summit.


expid: PUMO87101
peakid: PUMO
year: 1987
route1: E Face
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Joost Pielage
sponsor: Dutch Pumori Expedition Nepal 1987
approach: Gokyo Peak & Lobuje Peak
bcdate: 1987-05-05
smtdate: 1987-05-07
termdate: 1987-05-08
termnote: Abandoned at 5500m due to serac danger on steep bare ice face
campsites: BC(05/05,5350m),xxx(07/05,5500m)
accidents: None
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 1 hour beyond Gorak Shep
  High point at bottom of face.

  6th May at BC till 11 pm when had breakfast and set out at midnight for line had picked out, but saw 2 avalanches came off it on E Face. Decided to have closer look, reached foot of E Face at 2:30 am having seen another avalanche on the way there. Waited for light for good look and then saw upper part of face was bare ice with big threatening seracs and avalanche cone below. Decided exposure to big seracs too risky on bare ice too slow to climb; never took out crampons and rope. Left BC 8 and 9 May.


expid: LSHR87102
peakid: LSHR
year: 1987
route1: SE Ridge (from Pt 5700m on Col)
nation: France
leaders: Alain Esteve
sponsor: Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne (GMHM)
ascent1: 5th
countries: India, Nepal
approach: Chhukung->W side of Lhotse Glacier
bcdate: 1987-04-12
smtdate: 1987-05-20
smttime: 0930
othersmts: Lhotse (had permit, did not attempt) (LHOT-871-02)
campsites: BC(12/04,5250m),C1(14/04,5750m),C2A(20/04,6500m),C2B(27/04,6200m),C3(01/05,7000m),Smt(20/05)
achievment: 1st French ascent; 1st parachute; 1st French army ascent of 8000m on summit
agency: Sherpa Trekking Service (STS)
routememo:
  BC  at Lhotse Glacier west side, west of Island Peak
  C1  same as Yugoslav C1 at small pass north of point 5700m
  C2A at 6500m on SW Ridge (but very windy and tents destroyed)
  C2B at 6200m near Yugoslav C2 on SW Ridge
  C3  near serac near meeting of SW and SE Ridge.

  Had permit for East Ridge before came to Kathmandu. In February took flight over area and decided too great danger of many seracs making constant passage through area below and also of avalanches. After arrival at BC sent 1 member and LO to Kathmandu and obtained permit for SE Ridge, same route as Yugoslavs. In early May 16 tried to put C4 at 7500m or 7600m, but wind prevented this (an in earlier days, also deep snow); so managed to dump supplies at 7300m. Decided on 14 May not to attempt C4 but go directly from C3 to Lhotse Shar. Very early May decided traverse not possible because:

    (1) were late on mountain
    (2) winds, which were factor in being late in their progress

  Say Yugoslavs had come one month earlier and still only in C3. Also 3 traverses too difficult for relatively inexperienced French members. 

  1st attempt for summit 17th May from C3 by Flematti, Sharma and Pasang Sherpa; when reached SE Ridge 8200m found wind too strong and decided to fix rope only and down to BC. 

  On 18th Gramond went to deposit and then when little wind got to 8200m alone; then ridge dangerous and he did not want to continue solo and to C3. 

  19th evening Tedeschi, Esteve, Royer and Sange Sherpa to C3 and awoke at 10:00 pm and started up at 11:45 pm. At 7600m Esteve and Royer turned back because frostbite threatening then and now there were no fixed rope. Sange stopped ascent at 8250m because he was afraid of ridges dangers. Tedeschi continued to top alone and to C3 very tired (to BC on 21st). 

  On 22nd Mailly, Nima Norbu and Kikami Sherpa tried for top from C3; Kikami to 7400m (tired) and Mailly, Nima Norbu to 7600m (wind and cold). Climb finished: all members very tired and all camps empty of food and gas supplies.

  8 May Esteve and Grammond (pilot and passenger respectively) flew from C3 (7000m) to near BC at about 5300m (NE of BC in parachute like a glider). 1st time from such altitude by this type of parachute.

  Had obtained permit to climb East Ridge, but after aerial view of this ridge, team decided it was exposed to too much danger from avalanching and many seracs overhanging route they would have to follow. They sent a member and their liaison officer to Kathmandu to get permission for the Yugoslav's SE Ridge route. (They had also planned to make a traverse from Lhotse Shar to Lhotse's main summit via the unclimbed intermediate summit at the mountain, and traverse would be too difficult for the relatively inexperienced French members.) Between 6th and 13th May, team tried four times to pitch a C4 at 7500-7600m, but first deep snow and then winds prevented this. On the 14th they decided to go directly from C3 to the Lhotse Shar summit. Four attempts were made to reach this peak, but only one member of the third party succeeded because of strong winds, threatened frostbite and fear of the dangers on the ridge.


expid: GANG87101
peakid: GANG
year: 1987
route1: E Ridge from S
nation: Iceland
leaders: Gudmundur Petursson
sponsor: Gangapurna Icelandic Expedition 1987
approach: Madi Khola
bcdate: 1987-04-10
smtdate: 1987-04-28
termdate: 1987-05-03
termnote: Abandoned at 5500m due to bad weather and avalanche danger
campsites: BC(10/04,4100m),C1(14/04,4600m),C2(17/04,4850m),C3(28/04,5500m),xxx(28/04,5500m)
accidents: None
achievment: 1st Icelandic expedition to Himalaya
agency: Trekking & Expedition Services (TES)
routememo:
  BC east of Tent Peak and another ridge east of Tent
  C1 at lateral moraine on edge of East Annapurna Glacier
  C2 beneath large rock below snow slopes under Annapurna III below col between
     Annapurna III and Gangapurna
  C3 on top of large rock
  High point at C3.

  Decided to go for East Ridge from col between Gangapurna and Annapurna III instead of attempting S Face because route across glacier too long, involved and difficult for attempt in poor weather conditions with poor visibility. Nine days between making C2 and C3: 3 days fixing rope after time spent finding route in bad visibility (mist). 28th April put tent and left loads at C3 but did not occupy it until 1st May in electrical storm which continued for 3 days. Stayed 2 nights, no sign of weather improving and avalanche danger threatened (40-50 cm new snow per day) so decided to abandon climb. Had planned to climb above C3 in alpine-style without fixed ropes.


expid: AMAD87102
peakid: AMAD
year: 1987
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Greece
leaders: Mike Tsoukias
sponsor: Greek Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 54th (w/USA)
bcdate: 1987-04-01
smtdate: 1987-04-17
smttime: 2000
campsites: BC(01/04,4500m),C1(03/04,5700m),C2(08/04,5950m),Biv(15/04,6200m),C3(16/04,6300m),Smt(17/04)
accidents: None except normal stomach problems
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  BC at about 100m below Americans BC
  C1 at same site as Americans
  C2 at same site as Americans altitude according to map and others
  Biv mushroom ridge
  C3 at same site as Americans, who also made C3 this date.

  After making C2, went down to BC for rest. Started up on 11th and spent time on 13th fixing ropes above C2 on two steps. Also fixed ropes on 14th and 15th. 4 members from 11th went up but on 15th Tsilogiorgis got stomach problem so summit team consisted only 3 members and 1 Sherpa. Went to summit with Americans with Tsoukias leading the climb from C3 to top and back to camp.


expid: DHA187101
peakid: DHA1
year: 1987
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Masakatsu Nakamura
sponsor: Groupe des Moraines Dhaulagiri I Expedition 1987
approach: Kali Gandaki->Dhampus and French Passes
bcdate: 1987-03-30
smtdate: 1987-05-10
termdate: 1987-05-11
termnote: Abandoned at 7955m due to bad weather
accidents: Ang Phurba hit by avalanche but not injured; 1 member slight frostbitten finger
agency: Himalayan Journeys
campsites:
  BC(30/03,4650m),C1(02/04,4860m),ABC(08/04,5700m),C3(18/04,6550m),C4(22/04,7050m),C5(29/04,7500m),xxx(10/05,7955m)

routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 above big icefall, which skirted to right 
  C2 above small icefall
  C3 at left side of NE Ridge
  C4 on NE Ridge.

  After C5 established 29th April, down for rest at ABC. 7th May attack started from ABC by Mizukoshi and Sekiya with 2 Sherpas and slept C3 that night; not good weather on 8th May so stayed C3. 9th May to C5 and 10th May up in summit bid and reached 7955m (started 4:00 am and reached high point 10:30 am). Stromg wind and deep soft snow put end to this attack (soft snow very tiring). While ascending avalanche had hit Ang Phurba at 7900m and sent him down mountain: would have plunged 3000m down N Face if after 10m fall large rock had not broken his fall. He was able to resume ascent. 10th May attack party slept C5 that night and to ABC. 10th May Nakamura and Watanabe up to C4 for 2nd summit bid but 11th long period bad weather coming and supplies in ABC low, so Nakamura decided climb finished. Had planned for summit success by and May and now members morale not good enough for another attack plan, food and kerosene supplies not enough for still another long wait for better weather. "Route easy, weather bad."


expid: CHOY87102
peakid: CHOY
year: 1987
route1: W Ridge-W Face (Tichy) from N
nation: Austria
leaders: Marcus Schmuck
sponsor: International Tibet Expedition Cho Oyu 1987
ascent1: 28th w/Chl,29-33th
countries: Switzerland, W Germany, USA
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1987-04-11
smtdate: 1987-04-29
smttime: 1305
termdate: 1987-05-12
campsites: BC(11/04,5700m),C1(6400m),C2(7200m),C3(7600m),Smt(29/04,06-09/05)
accidents: Daum and Faessler frostbite; Obermaier altitude illness at 7600m in summit bid
routememo:
  After central BC established, each member has his own with own tent, food, fuel, etc., but sometimes shared tents when 1st climbers reached a site. Had no Tibetan helpers even to get supplies to 5700m camp and most climbers had to shuttle loads 3 times. Robert Strouhal skied down from 7600 to 6000m (to glacier).

  -35 degrees C at C3 in high winds turned some members back and gave 2 men frostbite.

  Walters reached C3 then ran out of food and fuel and weather bad.

  Schmuck has complained to Nepalese tourism ministry about American and Chilean expeditions crossing border and going onto his team's route. (Graf said on 5 May in KTM Chinese liaison officer was very angry about Chileans and Americans having crossed onto Tibetan side of Cho Oyu and seized several of their passports and trekking permits).


  Eberhard Jurgalski - February 2012

  Hans Pree told Eberhard Jurgalski by phone in March 2006 that he stopped at the summit plateau.


expid: KANG87101
peakid: KANG
year: 1987
route1: N Face
nation: France
leaders: Eric Monier
sponsor: Kangchenjunga 1987
bcdate: 1987-04-05
smtdate: 1987-04-24
termdate: 1987-04-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7350m due to serious frostbite
campsites: BC(05/04,5100m),C1(07/04,5900m),C2(16/04,6850m),xxx(24/04,7350m)
agency: Sherpa Trekking Service (STS)
routememo:
  BC at Pangpema.

  Japanese route followed from about 7200m after using German route and descending 100m by rope to do so. Carried loads to C2 site 11 April but slept there only on 16 April and then down. 21 April up again from BC. This time both members to C1 (Monier was alone above BC before). 22nd Monier to C2 in solo summit bid. 23 April stayed in C2 because bad snowfall. 24th up again up but had to give up and descend with bad frostbite, so back to C2 and 25th to BC. Miss Loscos stayed in C1 21-25 April.

  No Sherpas, no fixed rope (or rappell rope). Solo above C1. Monier's plan on 24 April was to rest 2 hours at 7500m in afternoon, resume climb that night rest 3-4 hours at 7900m in sleeping bag, reach summit that night or early morning of 25th and descend to C2 on 25th.

accidents:
  2 toes frostbitten and will require surgery to remove tops of both toes (had insufficiently warm boots, boots were good for -25 degrees in Alps)


expid: MAK287101
peakid: MAK2
year: 1987
route1: S Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Wilma Simonetta
sponsor: Kangchungtse Expedition
bcdate: 1987-04-15
smtdate: 1987-04-29
termdate: 1987-05-05
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to continuous bad weather, illness
campsites: BC(15/04,5300m),C1(19/04,5900m),C2(20/04,6800m),xxx(29/04,7400m)
agency: Tip & Top Trekking
routememo:
  BC at glacier's junction
  C1 at moraine to east side of Chago Glacier on spur
  C2 below Makalu La
  High point at Makalu La.

  After C2 established, 21st April down from C2 to BC for rest. 26th April up to C1 and 27th to C2. 29th to Makalu La [at 7400m] where arrived 5 pm and down to C2 to sleep. 30th down to BC for rest. Again after 2 days at BC Simonetta got sick from bad food. 3rd May both tired to go up and reached C1. 4th May Simonetta up only to 6000m because weak from illness and returned to BC while Righeschi reached C2. 5th May heavy snowfall and he down to BC that day and they decided to give up because of bad food and weather. Again all climbing done by Simonetta and Righeschi together except on 4th and 5th May.

accidents:
  None except Simonetta stomach trouble; other 2 members headache and sight problems, went down from BC & never returned, left BC about Apr 22, had never been on expedition before, did not realize Himalaya not just like Alps


expid: CHRE87101
peakid: CHRE
year: 1987
route1: SE Face-SW Ridge of E Smt
nation: S Korea
leaders: Do Chang-Ho
sponsor: Korean Alpine Club Chung Dong Churen Himal Expedition
bcdate: 1987-04-08
smtdate: 1987-05-11
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to difficult final Ridge
agency: Adventure Nepal
campsites:
  BC(07/04,4100m),C1(10/04,4750m),C2(18/04,5320m),C3(28/04,5750m),C4(06/05,6200m),C5(10/05,6650m),xxx(11/05,7200m)

routememo:
  BC at Kaphe Glacier
  High point on SE Ridge.

  Final summit ridge knife sharp crystal ice; entire route very long. Fixed total 200m begining below C1 over rock and snow. Almost every afternoon new snowfall, after while very deep. 11th May 11:40 am reached very steep, very narrow ridge, dangerously exposed to wind, which most days was strong. Between C4 and C5 big crevasse which took much time to pass. Many avalanches came off Dhaulagiri VI which were not serious problem to Koreans. After 11th May weather bad and no more chance of success. 

  Would like to try again but from C5 go to SW Ridge instead of route attempt this time. Expedition actually obtained permit for East Peak only.


expid: TILI87101
peakid: TILI
year: 1987
route1: N Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Jordi Colomer
sponsor: La Seda de Barcelona Tilicho Peak
approach: Manang
bcdate: 1987-03-28
smtdate: 1987-04-08
termdate: 1987-04-14
termnote: Abandoned at 7050m due to snow conditions, destructive winds
campsites: BC(28/03,4920m),ABC(31/03,5150m),C1(07/04,6100m),xxx(08/04,7050m)
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC  at northeast end of Tilicho lake (normal site)
  ABC on North Ridge (300m above bottom of ridge)
  C1  on North Ridge.

  Waited in BC till 14 April but weather "not very nice" and on 11th April heavy snowfall. Needed one week of very good weather to launch new summit attack: 2m deep snow. ABC and C1 had been destroyed in 5 minutes on 5 April when bad weather (heavy snow and strong wind) struck and stopped summit attempt that day. But weather did not stabilize and more and more snow being added. 

  First part of climb technically medium difficulty and last part not at all difficult, but the weather on Tilicho brings terrible wind (like at Jomsom) and fast new snow dumping.

accidents:
  In the descent on Apr 8 summit party slipped twice (20m) but not injured, found camp destroyed and had to sleep in snowhole


expid: ANN187101
peakid: ANN1
year: 1987
route1: N Face (French rte)
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Rob Hall
sponsor: New Zealand Annapurna I Expedition 1987
countries: UK, USA
bcdate: 1987-04-01
smtdate: 1987-04-05
termdate: 1987-04-07
termnote: Abandoned at 5600m due to Hall's accident
campsites: BC(01/04,4400m),C1(03/04,5000m),xxx(05-07/04,5600m)
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC at normal North Face site
  C1 at normal North Face site
  C2 at sites but never occupied (snowcave at normal site)
  High point on North Face.

  Planned to go to C3 on N Face and then decide whether to continue on French North Face route or go to NW Spur. On 5th April Hall and Atkinson reached site of C2 and began digging cave for camp, then down to BC for rest same day. 6th other 2 climbers went to C1, 7th to C2 site and worked some more on cave. C2 stores left in cave but it never occupied because on 7th Hall had accident and climb abandoned. 

  "We were really going well on the mountain; we had no health problems & the weather was good."

accidents:
  Hall and Atkinson during rest period were doing some photography and on 7th April at 11:30 am  and Hall fell 10m


expid: MAKA87101
peakid: MAKA
year: 1987
route1: S Face (Yugoslav 1975 rte)
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Edwin van Nieuwkerk
sponsor: Nomad Makalu Expedition 1987
approach: Arun->Sedua->Barun La->Shershon to BC
bcdate: 1987-03-22
smtdate: 1987-05-04
termdate: 1987-05-12
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to exhaustion from winds
campsites: BC(22/03,4900m),C1(24/03,5800m),C2(02/04,6700m),C3(20/04,7100m),xxx(04/05,7600m)
accidents: Moerman altitude illness; Oefner short fall but uninjured
achievment: 1st Dutch attempt on Makalu
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 4900m before Barun Glacier
  C1 at 5800m east side of point 5860m
  C2 at 6700m at top of snow ridge in ice cave
  C3 at 7100m at same as Yugoslav C3
  High point at 7600m at start of South Face.

  C1 tent collapsed by wind 12-20 April. 4 members (Moerman, Oefner, Ubbink and Van Nieuwkerk) had reached site of C3 on 12 April but illness and difficulty of finding site on which to pitch tent sent them down to BC. Some members started up again on 18th April, repaired tent and slept in C1. 19th to C2 and 20th occupied C2 at "anxious" site as Yugoslav camp, which apparently had not been a problem for Yugoslavs in Autumn season with perhaps better snow conditions. Lack of hard snow on face was serious problem for Dutch. Oefner and Ubbink stayed at C3 on 20th while other 2 descended to BC; both sick (one altitude and 1 stomach). 21st Oefner and Ubbink fixed rope but not far because of big powdered snow avalanche rushing down mountain (no physical damage but brought very cold temperature and discouraged climbers). 22nd fixed more rope on difficult traverse and Oefner fell 5m but saved by well placed piton. "Were same tricky traverses" but rock very solid. 23rd down to BC because they tired and other 2 were sick and could not go up. Moerman and Oefner up to C3 in 3 days and tried to fix rope above previous high point but very windy and cold. 2 May Oefner to end of ropes at 7500m while Moerman down and Oefner also down. 4th May Ubbink and Van Nieuwkerk, one day behind other two, up to highest point 7600m (Yugoslav C2), but 5th May back to BC tired; had planned to fix rope to slightly above traverse and then go to top alpine-style, but illness and exhaustion defeated them. All in BC; decided now to make summit push from high point (7600m). All 5 members to C2 (9th May to C1, 10th to C2). Oefner and Ubbink supported by others to make summit bid. 12th May Oefner, Ubbink and Van Nieuwkerk reached C3 planning now to biv at top of fixed ropes, but too tired and descended instead. To C2 12 May, 13th BC. Lost too much energy fighting wind and not enough manpower because of illness (Moerman had continuing altitude problem).

  With little more manpower and better weather, original climbing plan would have worked. Plan to return with six members in 1988 if can find financing so quickly.


expid: AMAD87101
peakid: AMAD
year: 1987
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: John Iacovino
sponsor: Pittsburg Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 54th (w/Greece)
bcdate: 1987-03-27
smtdate: 1987-04-17
smttime: 2000
termdate: 1987-04-19
campsites: BC(27/03,4570m),BC2(04/04,5000m),C1(02/04,5900m),C2(11/04,6100m),C3(15/04,6250m),Smt(17/04)
accidents: Kamin slightly frostbitten tips and toes
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC (A) below Mingbo Glacier
  BC (B) closer to mountain on ridge
  C3 above mushroom ridge.

  Hardest part between C2 to C3. Snowfall in early April changed the mountain from rock route to ice and snow. Moved entire BC up on 4 April after realized had put base much too far away from the site for C1. Saw Greeks move supplies by yak all the way to 18,000 ft. Between C2 and C3 are the difficult steps. Fixed rope between C1 and C2 for load carrying and because of weather. Between C2 and C3 was enormous amount of rope from earlier expeditions. Descent took very long (got back to C3 at 2:00 am on 18th because Greeks whom they summited with, were very slow). Had left C3 at 5:30 am on 17th.


expid: MANA87102
peakid: MANA
year: 1987
route1: NE Face (acclim) (to 7100m)
route2: SE Face (for summit attempt) (to 6800m)
nation: Poland
leaders: Wojciech Szymanski
sponsor: Polish-Czechoslovak Punggen Face Manaslu Expedition
countries: Czechoslovakia, W Germany
approach: Buri Gandaki->Samagaon
bcdate: 1987-04-16
smtdate: 1987-05-20
termdate: 1987-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to difficulty of dangerous SE Face
campsites: BC(16/03,4400m),Biv(17/05,4800m),xxx(20/05,7100m)
accidents: Scevlik developed unknown illness and left after only 3 days at BC
agency: Himalayan Rover
routememo:
  BC at bottom of East Ridge (above (left) of same)
  High point at SE Face.

  20 April started to Pungen Glacier and 1st night on moraine and then traversed glacier to 5000m on slope/ridge going to pk29 to see face. Spent 2 nights and then back to BC (39 days at BC, only 6 with no snowfall) did acclimatization climbs on NE Face route to 6300m and 6000m (2nd time in chest-deep snow). 3rd acclimatization climb to 7100m on normal route on 13th May in much better snow conditions. All 3 trips alone by climbing at night, sleeping in day. 14th May started 4 members from BC to Pungen Glacier for climb of SE Face and at 4800m rested till 11 pm when 2 members began upward real climb and reached 5200m at base of SE Face to 1 am 19th May. 10:00 pm started up very steep sugar snow which was very dangerous; climbed this terrible snow up to very sharp horizontal ridge with many pinnacles. Now hopeless; minimum 2 days dangerous difficult climb with no chance of retreat if bad weather. Reached 6800m and then gave up when 3 days more without food and fuel. Horrible descent with no protection in warm daylight and had to wait till sun moved behind mountain and snow hardened. 7 pm back in biv at 6200m, 11 pm at 4800m, 4:00 BC 21st May. In night big SE Face is climbed but perhaps best in winter.

  20th May decided not to attempt SE Face anymore, but thought to try NE face (normal route); 24 May decided abandon entire climb.

  SE Ridge attempt:

  19 May 11:00 pm began going up from biv at 4800m
  19 May 1:00 am reached 5200m and 7:30 am reached 6200m, where bivouacked
  20 May 10:00 am reached 6800m
  20 May 7:00 pm were back at 6200m bivouac
  20 May 11:00 pm were back at 4800m biv
  21 May 4:00 pm were back at BC and climb had ended
  21 May at night big snowstorm began and lasted for 3 days, so now on 24 May 
     gave up idea of trying normal route since supplies of food, etc were 
     becoming exhausted.


expid: MANA87101
peakid: MANA
year: 1987
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Enric Bassas Serra
sponsor: Rubi Manaslu 1987
bcdate: 1987-04-03
smtdate: 1987-04-08
termdate: 1987-04-25
termnote: Abandoned at 5600m due to loss of gear buried in snow at C2
campsites: BC(03/04,4100m),C1(05/04,4700m),C2(08/04,5600m),xxx(08,21/04,5600m)
accidents: Slight frostbite in toes by both members
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  BC above Samagaon
  C2 on glacier
  C2 at Naike Col (200m above).

  8th April heavy snowfall; again 18th April heavy snowstorm and all gear in C2 buried deeply. After 1st storm down to BC 9th April. Stayed in BC till 21st April since Barcelona (and to lesser degree, leader) frostbitten toes from bivouac forced by 8th April storm. 21st April up again and reached C2 site but all camps gear deep under snow and lost; could not find it under deep snow and below it ice. Had planned alpine-style ascent from C2 but all gear buried and down to BC same day and climb finished since all gas rope, tents, etc were now left. Left BC 25 April.


expid: LSHR87101
peakid: LSHR
year: 1987
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Vincenc Griljc
sponsor: Slovene Lhotse Shar Expedition
bcdate: 1987-03-14
smtdate: 1987-04-20
termdate: 1987-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 7450m due to bad weather, low food supplies
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (by Griljc)
campsites: BC(14/03,5200m),C1(25/03,5850m),C2(26/03,6300m),C3(06/04,6900m),xxx(20/04,7450m)
accidents: None
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC at usual site on east side of Island Peak
  C1 at col between Island Peak and Lhotse Shar
  C2 on ridge
  High point at C4 site.

  20th April Bence looking for C4 site. He alone, descended and no one again that high because of heavy snowfall with avalanches and then strong wind. After that C2 sometimes reached, C3 sometimes but then came snow and wind. Were in BC 60 days and not 1 day it would have been possible to traverse to Lhotse Intermediate because of wind and snow. Left BC 13-14 May. Yugoslavs fixed 1500m of own ropes and some old 1986 Spanish rope. All fixed by time French army arrived.


expid: LANR87101
peakid: LANR
year: 1987
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Katsuyuki Fukuzawa
sponsor: Nepalese-Japanese Joint Langtang Ri Expedition 1987
ascent1: 4th,5th
approach: Langtang Khola
bcdate: 1987-03-23
smtdate: 1987-04-17
campsites: BC(23/03,4950m),C1(28/03,5670m),C2(02/04,6100m),C3(05/04,6670m),Smt(17-18/04)
accidents: Yaguchi left BC Apr 10 with stomach trouble; same time Ang Kami also left BC sick
achievment: 1st spring attempt succeeded
agency: Ama Dablam Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Langtang Glacier halfway between Dragnarpo Ri and Goldum Peaks
  C1 at snow plateau between 2 cols
  C2 on SW Ridge 800m above Tilman's Col
  C3 on SW Ridge.

  Used fixed rope only last part to C2 below Tilman's Col where was hanging glacier and from Col to C2 to C3 difficult knife-edge ice ridge and here all fixed rope. From C3 to summit 600m fixed rope. Total 2300m rope fixed. After C3 had one week bad weather. 1st summit party left BC 14th April and 2nd attack party next day. 

  Much deep snow this spring even in BC area, where 2 years ago there was none when Fukuzawa did recced-route from BC included crossing a col down to snow plateau and up again to Tilman Col. Any other route very difficult and have hanging glaciers threatening them.


expid: CHOY87303
peakid: CHOY
year: 1987
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: France
leaders: Tierry Renard
ascent1: 38th
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1987-09-09
smtdate: 1987-09-23
campsites: BC(09/09,5600m),C1(17/09,6200m),C2(18/09,6800m),C3(19/09,7200m),C4(20/09,7500m),Smt(23/09)
routememo:
  Clemenson left Renard at BC on 11 or 12 Sept very early in morning leaving note in his tent saying not motivated; had conquest in 1984. Now Clemenson tells police he never saw Renard before and did not go to Nepal with him, has not repaid Renard for air ticket. Clemenson agreed to go to Cho Oyu with Renard: Renard did not want to climb alone and did not know Ang Rinji would join him and Clemenson had already been to summit so knew the mountain and was happy to return. Renard paid his airfare in the rush of departure but all other expenses shared equally between them.

  Renard skied down from summit to 6200m (C1).

  They had no permit for Cho Oyu.


  Michel Vincent - 13 Aug 88

  Tierry Renard did not reach Cho Oyu summit in 1987. Vincent knows he has been closely questioned about this and Japanese wrote letter saying they did not see him near summit on 21 Sept.

  Renard had one Sherpa and one Frenchman (name unknown) with him at BC and one climbing Sherpa who did not go to summit. French had no permit for climb. Renard, who did ski descent of Gasherbrum II in 1985, claimed to have skied down Cho Oyu on this climb, but Japanese saw him descending much of route on foot: they believe he skied only from C2 to C1.


expid: TILI87301
peakid: TILI
year: 1987
route1: NE Spur-N Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Bruno Roth Zaugg
sponsor: Swiss Tilicho Expedition
approach: Marshyangdi River->Manang
bcdate: 1987-10-03
smtdate: 1987-10-05
termdate: 1987-10-06
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to unsafe snow conditions
campsites: BC(03/10,4800m),xxx(05/10,5800m)
accidents: None
agency: Chomalhari Trekking
routememo:
  BC northeast of Tilicho Lake
  High point at start of NE Spur.

  4th Oct went up with loads to 5600m and back to BC across moraine. 5th brought up more loads to 5800m but unstable snow still there and decided this condition unsafe: couldn't fix route, so carried down loads. Strong wind also starting (120 kph).


expid: LEON87301
peakid: LEON
year: 1987
route1: W Face-W Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Ryong Yoon-Jae
sponsor: 1987 Jugal Himal Expedition of Chonnam Univ Medical School Alpine Club
ascent1: 5th
approach: Dhunche Khola->Langtang Khola->Langshisa Kharka
bcdate: 1987-09-03
smtdate: 1987-09-27
smttime: 0815
campsites: BC(02/09,4750m),ABC(10/09,5000m),C1(19/09,5800m),C2(21/09,6250m),C3(26/09,6650m),Smt(27/09)
accidents: None except one Sherpa sprained foot; another Sherpa bad cough and left expedition
agency: Adventure Nepal
routememo:
  BC  at Langshisa Glacier on line between Urkinmang and Langshisa Ri
  ABC on glacier east of BC 2 kms
  C1  above ice wall
  C2  on West Face almost at West Ridge
  C3  on West Ridge.

  Between 3rd and 19th Sep bad weather, so waited for improvement. Impossible to climb SW Ridge because so many avalanches so went over to West Face; most difficult section was below C2 very steep (60-70 degrees, some vertical) snow. Lee led most of route: very strong and technically excellent; Kim even stronger. 1600m from ABC to C1 and steep part below C2. Summit party left C3 at 6:20 am and on top at 8:15 am without problem in good weather.

  Did not send another summit party because there were frequent small avalanches below C1 and small team. Leader did not reach C1, Cho stayed at ABC directing logistics and climbing, Hang and Khon were support climbers only.


  Expedition/Leonpo Gang by Cho Seok-Phil

  The other route toward Langshisa Glacier, opposite side of East Ridge, was only once attempted by an English expedition team 30 years ago, but, regretably, 3 members of them happened to die in avalanche. After that accident, our approach is the first trial through this route.

  When enter into the Langshisa Glacier, there exist 3 routes in theory: West Ridge, SW Ridge, West Face and our choice was the West Face.

  We established BC on Sept 3, and through an Advance Camp of Sept 3, and moved up to a Deposit Camp on Sept 15 on the way to approach. The climbing to Leonpo Gang really came in earnest.
  Parties were completely divided for climbing and support, and the climbing pary decided to proceed with the alpine style.

  In the face of pressing dangers from avalanche of ice and snow as well as collapse in spots, we had great difficulties in this West Face route. To minimize the risks, we had to reduce the time of our staying as short as possible.

  The way to C1 was a snow face of 60-80 degree in 500m long, which we named "The Toh Wang Gil" after 2 days of climbing by member Lee Jeong-Houn, almost by himself thoroughly, C1 was secured on Sept 19.

  Advancing toward C2 was also blocked by more giant slope snow face, named by "The Haneul" of 70 degrees in 600 meters long. Struggling through the ice and snowfall, Lee Jeong-Houn overcame this route and then, he established C2 (6200m) of 1 tent on upper band of snow face by using 2 snow bars.

  Due to bad weather, all members retreated to the Advance Camp and waited till the weather to be better.

  Finally on Sept, members Lee Jeong-Houn and Kim Soo-Hyeon started for a route of attack with 2 Sherpas, Pemba and Gombu. On that day Kim and Pemba arrived at C1 and Lee and Gombu came up to C2 at 5:00 pm and then, the four established C3 (6650m) on Sept 26.

  It was Sunday Sept 27. After 2 hours from C3, they all 2 members and 2 Sherpas climbed up to the summit at last at 8:15 am. Even all the members of expedition were unexperienced with the Himalayan mountains though, they have achieved a real remarkable success - the first summit through the West Face route of Leonpo Gang.


expid: AMAD87302
peakid: AMAD
year: 1987
route1: N Spur-N Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Frederick Ziel
sponsor: 1987 American Ama Dablam N Ridge Expedition
bcdate: 1987-09-23
smtdate: 1987-10-17
termdate: 1987-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6370m due to dangerous snow conditions
campsites: BC(25/09,5000m),C1(03/10,5900m),C2(17/10,6370m),xxx(17/10,6370m)
agency: Nepal Himal
routememo:
  BC west lateral moraine of Ama Dablam Glacier (foot of ridge)
  C1 on North Ridge where spur and North Ridge proper meet
  C2 at shoulder on West Ridge
  High point at C2 site.

  Reached C1 via spur on right side of N Ridge (ridge all rock, spur 95% snow). 2 went to establish C2 fixing rope and making route in hard climbing; fixed 1700m from 5275m to 6370m. Jeff Alzner, Fred Ziel and Tshering Lhakpa made C2 and left dump there. Storm hit and never slept in. Storm hit and "we ran for our lives." Descended and couldn't go back. Jeff came down in on avalanche Fred turned his anke. Mick Holt tried to go back up twice: what before was all boulders was now inside deep snow. Also running out of time. After storm lot of snow did not avalanche and was dangerous.


expid: CHOY87304
peakid: CHOY
year: 1987
route1: S Arete/Ridge (to 6500m)
route2: S Spur (Sumna Spur) (to 6700m)
route3: W Ridge-W Face from S
nation: USA
leaders: Mark Udall
sponsor: 1987 American Cho Oyo Expedition
ascent3: 40th (illegal)
countries: UK
approach: Thami valley->Chula last village and Sumna Phug (cave)
bcdate: 1987-09-19
smtdate: 1987-11-02
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to difficult 70m ice-cliff (as reported to HMG)
campsites: BC(19/09,5150m),C1(14/10,6200m),xxx-Reported(17/10,6700m),Smt(02/11)
accidents: None
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  18th Oct big storm came up and those who wanted Tichy route realized Japanese with Chinese permit would leave mountain (and they did) and 5 left ABC for Tibet on 24th Oct; had not returned to BC (sent word to sirdar to evacuate BC, 5 would be behind) but took direct route to Nangpa La. "Quite an adventure" at this stage. Camped one night before pass, one night on Nangpa Glacier, crossed Nangpa La 29th Oct and camped around the corner (to E). 30th Oct were at traditional C1 on Tichy route and camped there. 1st Nov Berg took rest day at 21,800 ft just below Hillary's icefall in 1952, while Mark Udall and Gustke (these 2 were exhausted and very cold) they returned met other 2 and all 4 descended to 21,800 ft. Berg kept on up to highest point ("about as alpine-style a climb as you can make it"). No fixed lines. From 10 days carried all gear they had. Berg climbed 5000 ft in 8 hrs 45 minutes, broke his own trail, reached 21,800 ft at 2:30 pm, had to erect tent collapsed by winds that had actually made ascent possible by blowing away snow. All 5 returned to Namche on 6th Nov (in Thami midnight of 5th and woke up tea shopkeeper for boiled potatos). Were unsupported on this adventure and Berg especially so.

  Dump site at 17,700 ft of point 5885m at base of glacier. On 1st route got to 6500m and then route looked very hard for load carrying: horizontal knife-ridge into large snow feature which seemed to be shifting. So tried another approach and on this appeared difficult section above. They went to C1 for rest and storm hit and it ended all thought of discovering whether section above was negotiable. Big snowstorm hit 18-20 Oct and had to dig for 3 days to keep tents Ok and to ferry loads to place below BC. 

  Climbing route: South Arrete/Ridge and South Spur, well west of Polish route.

  Did not admit in 1987 to ascent because:
    (1) Wanted to protect name of Udall's father, a US Senator, and
    (2) Did not want to encourage others to violate rules (get into trouble).


expid: NUPT87302
peakid: NUPT
year: 1987
route1: S Spur
nation: USA
leaders: Rob Newsom
sponsor: 1987 American Nuptse Expedition
approach: Chhukung
bcdate: 1987-10-03
smtdate: 1987-10-12
termnote: Abandoned at 5640m due to bad snow, lack of motivation
campsites: BC(03/10,5240m),xxx(12/10,5640m)
accidents: None
agency: Nepal Himal
routememo:
  BC at end of Lhotse Nuptse Glacier
  High point at base of South Face.

  Waited for Italians to go for it as they were there first and were well acclimatized. Also problem of LO who did not agree to abide by ministry's oral permission to be on same route as Italians. When LO did get radioed permission from KTM, big snowstorm had hit and snow buried gear at BC and did not consolidate. Went to base of the wall only on about 12th Oct, saw clouds coming and retreated to wait a couple of days for expected minor storm to pass (Yoder). 

  Actually Newson and Yoder were not a good team. Yoder got various ailments because he didn't like the climb he found himself faced with. If both had been well motivated, they could have done the climb.


expid: KANG87301
peakid: KANG
year: 1987
route1: SW Face
nation: Australia
leaders: Michael Groom
sponsor: Australian Kangchenjunga Expedition
ascent1: 23rd
approach: Hile->Taplejung
bcdate: 1987-08-30
smtdate: 1987-10-10
termdate: 1987-10-12
campsites: BC(30/08,5300m),C1(6100m),C2(6500m),C3(7100m),C4(7900m),Smt(10/10)
accidents: Frostbite (both men will lose parts of fingers and toes)
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  Climbed SW Face in semi-alpine style without Sherpas or oxygen. 

  On descent their vision became blurred and thinking badly affected. As result they did not realize that an avalanche had wiped out their tracks and they could not see their camp at 7900m. Unable to find C4 in dark, Groom fell into crevasse. Both members spent the night out without equipment at 7900m. Next day they found their tent 100m away. This was the cause of serious frostbite to Groom's feet and Coulton's fingers and feet.


expid: AMAD87301
peakid: AMAD
year: 1987
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Martin Mandel
sponsor: Ama Dablam S Ridge 1987
approach: Dingboche->Chhukung
bcdate: 1987-09-17
smtdate: 1987-09-30
termdate: 1987-10-14
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(17/09,4875m),C1(19/09,5705m),Biv1(28/09,6100m),Biv2(29/09,6250m),xxx(30/09,6400m)
accidents: Green very ill (food poisoning)
agency: Rover Treks
routememo:
  BC at lake above Mingbo (near Drangka Khola SSE of Mingbo village)
  C1 at point 5705m on Schneider map.

  27th Sep 4 to C1 and 28th 2 of them to C2. 29th same 2 while Todd and Simmonds to C2. 30th Perkins and Cave to 6400m and then same morning down because of very bad snow conditions with steep section ahead with no belays to BC to Mingbo (BC had been moved). Other 2 met descending of men and also down (to C2 only). 1st Oct Todd and Simmonds in descent met Swift and Richmond coming up from C1 and they too descended. 

  Heavy snowfall followed. 9th Oct BC struck: all left mountain except Todd and Perkins who went to C1; slight snow. 11th Oct to C2 and 13th Oct up to 6100m. Now snow much harder and again snow dangerous with no belays so down to C1 same day. 14th Oct to Mingbo (end of climb). All old fixed ropes under snow, no rope for fixing.


expid: DHA187302
peakid: DHA1
year: 1987
route1: NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Catherine (Kitty) Calhoun
sponsor: American Dhaulagiri E Face Expedition
ascent1: 32nd
approach: French Pass
bcdate: 1987-09-09
smtdate: 1987-10-16
termdate: 1987-10-18
accidents: Only damage from avalanche fall
agency: Kunga
campsites:
  BC(09/09,4700m),Biv1(17/09,5350m),C2(21/09,5950m),C3(27/09,6500m),Biv4(13/10,7000m),Biv5(15/10,7500m),Smt(16/10)

routememo:
  BC at 4700m at normal BC side
  C1 at 5350m at middle of glacier
  C2 at NE Col (snow cave)
  C3 on NE Ridge
  C4 on NE Ridge
  C5 at 7500m on NE Ridge.

  E Face did not have as much snow and ice as expected: was rock face up MacIntyre route planned to climb and water running down it. After reached col, there was snow storm so down to BC. Reoccupied C2 on 24th Sept. 30th Sept caught in avalanche at 6600-6700m and took them 200m down N Face pulling out most of pitches of Japanese fixed ropes; no broken bones but bad knee and hip and rope burns so back to Col and on to BC. 6th Oct again up to col, C3 on 8th, so now up to 7500m on 15th summit bid from 7500m at 8:45 am in cloudy weather but not windy; went up couloir on N Face instead of right on ridge. James turned around at 7800m because didn't like snow conditions which looked dangerous. To 7500m on 16th, col on 17th and BC 18th.


expid: AMAD87303
peakid: AMAD
year: 1987
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: William (Bill) O`Connor
sponsor: Anglo-American Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Iceland, USA
bcdate: 1987-10-14
smtdate: 1987-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 5700m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(14/10,4570m),C1(17/10,5700m),xxx(17,28/10,5700m)
accidents: None
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC at old Mingbo helicopter pad
  C1 before pinnacles on South Ridge (2 rocky platforms)
  High point at C1.

  BC too low but at normal site lake had disappeared. Snow began falling that night had dumped 4 feet snow. All day 20th dug out BC tents. Now got colder and colder everyday and snow didn't melt and didn't consolidate. 

  Down to Pangboche for 1 week of waiting for snow to improve but had changed very little. Went up to C1 but in very deep snow and there was snow on polished rock slabs. C1 one tent destroyed and other collasped and they found on 28th where reached it. 2 members had placed an intermediate camp on 28th in case needed in descent. Spieczny left expedition after snowstorm: thought climb hopeless and his wife trekking in region.


  O'Connor, Ama Dablam, Thyangboche - 22 Oct 1987

  On the walk-in we passed a spring of nobbling climbers from the New Zealand expedition and a host of hollow-eyed Spaniards.

  Our own base went up on the 14th and Camp 1 was in place by the 17th and then the bombardment began. Twenty four hours later we were under 4 ft of snow and spent the next couple of days digging out, rather than in.

  Right now we are back in Thyangboche waiting for the snow to melt and hopefully for a chance at the climb, but the storm has been devastating.

  Camps on Pumori have been wiped out. Lhotse Shar and the Burgesses likewise are buried and I understand are pulling out.


expid: ANNS87301
peakid: ANNS
year: 1987
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Philippe Berger
sponsor: Annapurna Dakshin Expedition Credit Mutuel
approach: Dhampus->Khymnu village->Khymnu Khola
bcdate: 1987-10-26
smtdate: 1987-11-12
termdate: 1987-11-13
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to winds, 1 member becoming ill, etc.
campsites: BC(26/10,4050m),ABC(28/10,5200m),C1(06/11,5800m),C2(08/11,6200m),xxx(12/11,6300m)
accidents: Fauret stomach trouble; Berger also sick; no accidents or frostbite
routememo:
  BC  near icefall (the west of 2 icefalls) the south of peak
  ABC on SW Ridge at top of icefall
  C2  on SW Ridge 
  High point on SW Ridge. 

  ABC hit by 2 big avalanches which destroyed camp at night both times. No one hurt but very frightening. Changed route to C1 as a result and thus C1 took time to establish. Sherpas did not want to go to ABC for days. 9 Nov Berger sick and down to BC so only 3 members now on ridge and winds fierce above 6000m (100 km/hr) and very cold. Ridge is now knife-edged and dangerous from falling rock. 13 Nov summit bid but again only to 6300m and climb finished because food in C2 finished.

  Had avalanching off South Face daily, usually at about 8:00 pm.

  6 members to BC only (trekkers?).


expid: MANA87302
peakid: MANA
year: 1987
route1: E Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Seigo Matsushima
sponsor: Aomari Manaslu Expedition 1987
approach: Gorkha->Arughat Bazar->Buri Gandaki->Samagaon
bcdate: 1987-09-30
smtdate: 1987-10-27
termdate: 1987-10-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to member's death, difficult climb
campsites: BC(30/09,4400m),C1(05/10,5430m),C2(14/10,5825m),C3(26/10,6300m),xxx(27/10,6500m)
accidents: Only Kudo's death; Kamiharako could not acclimatize so he and Kiyokawa left expedition
agency: Express
routememo:
  BC at 2-1/2 hours from Samagaon at start of East Ridge
  C2 on East Ridge after having climbed couloir
  C3 on end of East Ridge at glacier and below big rock pinnacle
  High point at west side of pinnacle.

  Route BC to C1 on north side of E Ridge (BC also north of E Ridge). Big snowstorm of 19th Oct dumped 1.20m snow on BC. 28th Oct Ichigi Kudo died at BC of presumed apoplexy: while eating supper, suddenly fell over and became unconscious. All members came down to BC and decided continuation of climb above C3 very difficult. Had planned ascent of pinnacle; after start climb, thought to go to west side of it but still rock and ice climb here very difficult. So decided not to continue after accident, not enough time with sudden death of Kodo. This route is possible: 50-50 chance of success without Kodo's death.


expid: TAWO87301
peakid: TAWO
year: 1987
route1: SE Face-SE Ridge (to 6350m)
route2: E Face (to 5500m)
nation: UK
leaders: Malcolm Duff
sponsor: British Tawoche Expedition
countries: USA
approach: Pheriche
bcdate: 1987-09-14
smtdate: 1987-10-02
termnote: Abandoned at 6350m due danger snow slabs and eventually to Duff's illness
campsites: BC(14/09,4250m),ABC1(16/09,5200m),ABC2(04/10,5200m),xxx(02/10,6350m)
accidents: Duff tapeworm; nothing else
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC    in valley across river from Pheriche
  ABC.1 southeast of mountain for SE Face attempt
  ABC.2 at Tawoche Glacier for East Face attempt
  High point 150m below final summit.

  ABC at 5200m for SE Face climb and over next week got 2 clients to 6100m on route on which Duff and Black fixed rope for them but no higher camps pitched, then clients ran out of steam and they left BC 24th Sept leaving Duff and Black (no one from Ama Dablam joined them). 

  Black and Duff went back up and started from ABC 11 pm 1st Oct, climbed all night and got to 6350m on the final summit slope at 8:30 am on 2nd. Did not climb final slope of 150 vertical meters because of danger smow slabs. Immediately descended to BC which reached at 6 pm on 2nd. On 4th moved tent for E Face attempt, 1 km away from old ABC and placed it at same altitude at foot of Tawoche glacier, but now Duff suffering from effects of huge tapeworm. Scrambled 300m upwards on 6th and stayed in a camp there. 12th heard some Ama Dablam climbers missing and went to see; they weren't. But Duff getting worse, so no further climbing.


expid: AMAD87304
peakid: AMAD
year: 1987
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Bulgaria
leaders: Venelin Hristoforov Petrov
sponsor: Bulgarian Students Expedition Ama Dablam 1987
approach: Dingboche
bcdate: 1987-10-14
smtdate: 1987-10-23
termdate: 1987-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 5600m due to weather, dangerous snow conditions
campsites: BC(14/10,4740m),C1(16/10,5500m),xxx(23/10,5600m)
accidents: None
agency: Adventure Nepal
routememo:
  BC between two Ama Dablam lakes on meadow
  C1 on NW Ridge
  High point on NW Ridge 100m below summit.

  Snowed 26 hours and at BC deep snow 18-19th Oct. Afterwards waited for snow to consolidate and 21st Oct 2 went up again (made scientific studies meanwhile). Defeated by powder snow which neither consolidated nor melted and not was blown away. Would have to wait 10 days for safe snow conditions, but not enough time and funds to do so. Studied new compounds with anti-hypoxia action made in Belgium which were effective for brain.


expid: DHA587301
peakid: DHA5
year: 1987
route1: SE Ridge via White Peak
nation: Spain
leaders: Angel Serra Jubany
sponsor: Catalonian Expedition Dhaulagiri V
approach: Myagdi Khola->Puchar
bcdate: 1987-09-21
smtdate: 1987-10-06
termnote: Abandoned at 7080m due to bad weather, insufficient rope
othersmts: Climbed Tsaurabong Peak (TSUR-873-01)
campsites: TempBC(21/09,3550m),BC(26/09,4900m),C1,C2(03/10,6400m),xxx(06/10,7080m)
accidents: None
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  Every day clouds formed in late morning & snowfall in afternoon. However little avalanching on this route. 

  White Peak scaled on 3rd Oct by all 4 members; 4th Oct by all 4 members; 
  5th Oct by 2 Sherpas (C2 was placed on summit).

  Schedule Catalonian Expedition Dhaulagiri V / Nepal 87

  9 Sept   - started the approach March from Pokhara
  21 Sept  - reached temporary BC at 3550m below Tsaurabong Glacier 
             beside right of Myangdi Khola
  22 Sept  - started loads transportation to depot Camp, DC is 4300m to 
             the right of seracs
  26 Sept  - BC was established at 4900m. At the Tsaurabong Glacier East
             of White Peaks East Ridge
  28 Sept  - was established the C1 at 5400m.
  29 Sept  - was established one depot at 5900m below the white peak at 
             site originally planned for C2
   4 Oct   - was established the C2 at summit of the white peak. At 6400m
             (site originally planned to be C3)
   6 Oct   - two members arrived below the C3 at 7080m and go down 
             because there was cloud and was snowing.
   7 Oct   - the party decided to go down because:
             - days of bad weather
             - the ridge was dangerous without fixed route - rope supply exhausted
             - much wind 
   7 Oct   - all the members returned to BC from C2
  13 Oct   - started the return march from temporary BC with 13 porters of Bagar
  19 Oct   - All the party arrived to KTM.


expid: JANU87303
peakid: JANU
year: 1987
route1: Variant of S Ridge (to 5800m)
route2: S Ridge (French 1962 rte)
nation: France
leaders: Henri Sigayret
sponsor: France Jannu Autumn Expedition
ascent2: 18th
approach: Ghunsa->Yamatri Glacier
bcdate: 1987-10-21
smtdate: 1987-11-06
termdate: 1987-11-08
accidents: None
agency: Rover Treks
campsites:
  BC(21/10,4500m),ABC(22/10,4800m),C1(23/10,5300m),C2(27/10,6000m),C3(03/11,6400m),C4(05/11,7000m),Smt(06/11)

routememo:
  At first tried "Youngster's Spur", but too difficult above 5800m and turned back: very difficult ice mushrooms, too difficult for 2 climbers. Tried for 3 days and gave up on 27th Oct and returned to C1 for 1962 French route, which joined at this expedition's C2. Bivouac at 6500m to wait for better weather. Sigayret and Julliard to 7400m on 6th Nov at 4 pm and returned to C4 with slight frostbite; Vallet and Vincent summited and returned to C4 at 11 pm with only slight frostbite. Climb now finished: all other members had gone back to BC several days earlier.

  From AAJ:
    BC(21/10,4500m),ABC(23/10),C1(24/10,5300m),C2(27/10,6000m),C3(03/11,6400m),
    C4(05/11,7000m),Smt(06/11)


  Jannu Expedition Francaise, by Henri Sigayret

  Ascent 

  From Ghunsa to BC 1:
  Tuesday October 20th:

  Beautiful weather. We had some porters with some yaks. We had had snow at about 4000m high. At base camp 1 there was 50 cm of snow which had been settled by the sun.

  BC 1 is the usual camp of expeditions on that side. In particular, it is that of the French expedition of 1962. It is located near a moraine lake on a grass space; it is very comfortable. The height is about 4500m.

  The sirdar has thought it possible to have the expedition gear carried until base camp 1. We have also set up a further camp, i.e., base camp 2 [ABC].

  Date: Oct 22nd:

  It is situated in the middle of the Yamatri glacier. Its height is about 4800m. There is no difficulty between BC 1 and BC 2. From basecamp 1, one follows the lake on the south side, one goes down the moraine (very steep - be aware of stone falls). Then one goes up again easily the glacier.

  In general there is water. There are small lakes, and some small glacial streams.

  From BC 2 to C1:
  Date: Oct 23rd:

  All the team, besides Gerard Auger, went up to C1. 

  Route: one follows the Yamatri glacier then one crosses it to go on the moraine which is alongside the Youngster's Spur. One then goes up the moraine, then, through a small corridor, one crosses on the right. Then one goes up a little to a shelf near some big blocks. This is on the right bank of the A Glacier. The altitude is about 5300m. No difficulty is to be found. We placed the tents on Oct 23 and Oct 24th. All the team goes down to BC.

  Attempt on the Youngster's Spur:
  Date: 25/26th Oct

  An ice corridor may be seen in the middle of the Youngster's Spur. It's facing south and its foot is near C1. Its gradient is about 40 to 45 degrees, but in some points it may reach 60 degrees or more. In its upper part, it meets the ridge of the Youngster's Spur (passages are steeper). The Youngster's Spur is mixed: there are ice passages, cornices - rock passages. This spur is climbed with several lengths of rope.

  The spur has been equipped by Elisabeth Julliard, Henri Sigayret, Frederic Vallet and Michel Vincent. Frederic Vallet is head-man in this part.

  Beyond Point B, the ridge is snowed in. There is drifting snow and mushrooms cornices. Too much gear and too many days would be necessary to equip this ridge. The head team decided to find a new route which meets the French one. The team climbed down and took off the material which equipped the ridge and the corridor. The descent was done without any problems.

  From C1 to the French route
  Tuesday Oct 27th:

  Dawa Sherpa and Mane Bahadur are head-man on the glacier. Its heavy going. They are followed by Elisabeth Juliard and Henry Sigayret, then by Frederic Vallet and Michel Vincent. Some days later the other members of the team reached C2.

  A traverse, then a direct climbing up on a steep glacier (but without any difficulty) enabled the team to meet the rock ridge behind which the French route stands. One goes up a glacier (it is magnificient). The crossing on seracs in dangerous. One gets through an almost vertical passage in a serac (a fixed rope has been installed) on to the glacier shelf in front of an enormous crevasse (15 to 20m wide), which bounds the valley.

  A rope system which joins the two edges of the crevasse may still be seen. (Perhaps was it left by the Spanish expedition). 

  Installation of C2 - probable height 6000m.
  Michel Vincent and Mane Bahadur went down to C1.

  Wednesday, Oct 28th:

  Days rest at C1 but for one of us who stayed at BC.

  Thursday Oct 29th:

  Elisabeth Julliard, Mario Paffumi, Henri Sigayret, Frederic Vallet slept at C2.

  Friday, Oct 30th:

  Michel Vincent joins the above team. Loads were carried to the Youngster's pass. The equipment of the first part of the ridge is done, until the foot of the "Buttress Head." The ridge is sometimes overhanging but without major difficulties.

  Saturday, Oct 31st:

  C3 is installed. Frederic Vallet as head-man equipped the remaining part of the ridge toward the Buttress Head. C3 is installed just under it. Michel Vincent, Elisabeth Julliard and Henri Sigayret followed F. Vallet and all of them installed C3.

  Tuesday, Nov 3rd:

  Elisabeth Julliard, Henri Sigayret, Frederic Vallet, Michel Vincent left C2. They carried the gear for an attempt to the summit (tents, ropes, food, gas). They slept at C3.

  Wednesday, Nov 4th (camp 3):

  The four mountaineers left for C4. The Buttress Head has been reached rapidly. Then we crossed down toward the foot of the Lace Ridge. At the foot of this ridge strong blast of wind and clouds prevent the mountaineers from going up. A tent has been installed. Bivouac.

  Thursday, Nov 5th:

  The wind was less strong. We went up the Lace Ridge, then crossed the throne glacier. We climbed up the glacier until 7000m (its the foot of the ice face which leads to the ridge which is the remainder of the ascent).

  - In the Lace Ridge: some passages are steep and very steep
  - Throne Glacier:    easy but tiresome.

  The four mountaineers are in their tent at C4.

  Friday, Nov 6:

  It has been decided to attempt to reach the summit directly from C4. Unfortunately, we go up too late. We left at about 8:30. We climbed up the ice slope where the French set up their C6 in 1962 (no fixed rope has been installed).

  Above this camp, at the end of the very fine ridge Elisabeth Julliard and Henri Sigayret decided to turn back. It is 2 am. They started to have frostbites. The wind was blowing strongly. We had no extra ropes. (Both roped parties used 7 mm ropes). They went down to C4 being roughly handled by the wind.

  Frederic Vallet and Michel Vincent went on to the summit. They came back at night and they reached C4 at 11 pm. The four mountaineers had frostbites.

  Saturday, Nov 7th:

  Frederic Vallet and Michel Vincent came down to C2. Elisabeth Julliard and Henri Sigayret slept at C3 which they cleared the following day.

  Sunday, Nov 8th:

  All the four mountaineers, the two Sherpas, Dawa and Mane, who were at C2 went down to the upper base camp.

  Monday, Nov 9th:

  All the team headed toward Ghunsa.

  Some Comments

  The Youngster's Spur: this spur would have required some extra gear, more time, and another head roped party.

  The route that we took: the French route of 1962 is a very difficult route; in case of bad weather it may be dangerous to turn back for a light team and if the route is not equipped properly.

  This route is beautiful. The only dangerous passage is situated under C2 (passage in the seracs). This passage is rather short.


expid: DHA187301
peakid: DHA1
year: 1987
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Tatsuhisa Mitoma
sponsor: Fukuoka Tozan Kemkyu Kai Dhaulagiri Expedition
approach: Kali Gandaki->Dhampus and French Passes
bcdate: 1987-09-03
smtdate: 1987-10-06
termdate: 1987-10-14
termnote: Abandoned at 7050m due to lack of rope for fixing and lack of time
campsites: BC(03/09,4650m),C1(19/09,5800m),C2(26/09,6650m),xxx(06/10,7050m)
accidents: Sirdar pulmonary edema; others hurt hand; Mitoma sick 1st 2 weeks at BC
agency: Sagarmatha
routememo:
  BC at 4650m at normal site below icefall
  C1 near Col
  C2 on NE Ridge
  High point on NE Ridge.

  Icefall very difficult this season and needed 1000m fixed ropes so took long time to reach C1. Fixed rope to 7050m on 6th Oct and down to C2 and C1 for rest. 11th Oct up from C2 to make C3 but snow bridge at 6750m broken and rope gone and down to C1 and climb finished: no rope, no time and only making route for E Face who also came to NE Ridge so "no heart" to continue climb. An avalanche on 30th Sep caused by Americans took out Japanese rope. Snow bridge probably broken by opening of crevasse: many crevasses this season, many opening up while team was on mountain. Planned C3 at 7400m but not possible to fix rope this high to make summit attack from this camp. 3 left BC 14th Oct. Had taken 2000m of rope but did not have enough.


expid: CHOY87306
peakid: CHOY
year: 1987
route1: SE Pillar (Polish 1985 rte)
nation: W Germany
leaders: Hans Eitel
sponsor: German Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 1987-10-10
smtdate: 1987-10-23
termdate: 1987-11-04
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to route too difficult for solo
campsites: BC(10/10,5600m),C1(22/10,6200m),C2(23/10,6600m),xxx(23/10,7400m)
accidents: Friedrich acclimatization problem and never reached BC
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC north of Gokyo for SE Face-Lungsampa Glacier
  C1 at Lungsampa Glacier
  C2 on S Ridge.

  From BC cross glacier and saw 10 avalanches, on one day on SE Face. So LO agrees to change of route. Then came 1-1/2m snow in big snowstorm of 18-19th and waited 2 days before going up on snow ridge to difficult rock on Polish route. Much wind so from 7400m back to 6600m that same night (23 Oct). From 7400m very difficult long climb which can not climb alone to top safely and had sensitive toes from earlier climbs. Left BC BC 4 Nov but "alone is nice" solo climbing.


expid: PUMO87303
peakid: PUMO
year: 1987
route1: SW Ridge
nation: W Germany
leaders: Juergen Knappe
sponsor: German Pumori Expedition 1987
ascent1: 31st,33rd
countries: Italy
bcdate: 1987-10-16
smtdate: 1987-10-24
termdate: 1987-10-26
campsites: BC(16/10,5340m),C1(22/10,6200m),C3(23/10,6600m),Smt(24,26/10)
accidents: Holzer had some illness in C1 on 22nd Oct & badly injured ankle on trek
routememo:
  BC near Kalapattar
  C1 at SW Ridge Col (start of difficulties)
  C2 at 50m west side of ridge in crevasse.

  On 18th made depot at C2 site for acclimatization. Had to dig a little to find it after snowstorm 19-20th. Between C1 and C2 steep mixed climbing. Japanese had done German's route and fixed rope but cut the ropes in places, Germans did some fixing where Japanese ropes could not be used.

  Had problems with Japanese who should have been on South Ridge (Germans saw permitted route in tourism ministry) but were on German's SW Ridge when Germans arrived. Japanese BC right next to Germans BC. At end of their climb, Japanese opened their big unused gas bottles making Knappe vomit. Japanese cut small pieces from their fixed ropes; were generally unpleasant. French were very friendly.


expid: PUMO87301
peakid: PUMO
year: 1987
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yoshio Ohashi
sponsor: Gunma Sakaimachi Yamanakai Pumori Expedition 1987
ascent1: 28th-30th
bcdate: 1987-09-15
smtdate: 1987-10-12
termdate: 1987-10-14
campsites: BC(15/09,5200m),C1(20/09,5800m),C2(25/09,6200m),C3(03/10,6500m),C4(10/10,6800m),Smt(12-14/10)
accidents: 1 Sherpa broken arm, 1 Sherpa stomach problem, so both left expedition early
agency: Express
routememo:
  BC above Gorak Shep
  C2 at South Ridge col
  C4 in snow hole.

  After made C4, removed C3. Made C3 because was long route which was very steep mixed rock, snow and ice. Fixed 3000m rope from 5500m almost entire route to top (from snow hole to top put in rope so able to find route on descent in clouds). From C2 to C3 avalanche caused Nima Rita to fall and broke arm on 4th October.


expid: DHA187304
peakid: DHA1
year: 1987
route1: S Face (never on face)
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiroshi Aota
sponsor: Hiroshi Aota Dhaulagiri S Face Solo Expedition
approach: Thulo Khola
bcdate: 1987-09-29
smtdate: 1987-10-02
termdate: 1987-10-14
termnote: Abandoned at 4300m due to dangerous avalanching
othersmts: To 5500m on Pk 6620 once
campsites: BC(29/09,3500m),ABC(02/10,4300m),xxx(4300m)
accidents: None
agency: Ama Dablam Trekking
routememo:
  BC  near Polish aut 1986 site
  ABC on bottom of glacier.

  After ABC established did acclimatization climb to 5500m on point 6620 on 9th Oct. Plan was route up center of S Face, but 2-3 big avalanches daily and many small avalanches, so no climbing on Dhaulagiri I at all and on 10th Oct returned to BC from ABC and left BC 14th Oct. Winter season would be better time to try this face, but not sure he wants to come to it again.


expid: GAN587301
peakid: GAN5
year: 1987
route1: S Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Haruo Makino
sponsor: Fukui Alpine Club Nepal Himalaya Expedition 1987 to Ganesh V
ascent1: 3rd
approach: Trisuli Bazar->Syabru Besi
bcdate: 1987-09-09
smtdate: 1987-10-04
smttime: 1330
termdate: 1987-10-10
accidents: None
achievment: 1st autumn attempt; new route
agency: Cosmo Treks
campsites:
  BC(09/09,4300m),ABC(09/09,4900m),C1(14/09,5150m),TempC2(20/09,5550m),C2(27/09,5850m),C3(01/10,6300m),Smt(04/10)

routememo:
  BC  at foot of South Ridge
  ABC stone house
  C1  on South Ridge
  TC2 on South Ridge
  C3  on South Ridge.

  C2 to C3 very long way established needed C2 (tramp C2 which sometimes slept in). From C3 to top steep snow with overhanging rock face. Fixed rope above C1 to C2 1050m; TC2 to C2 750m; C2 to C3 750m; C3 to top 450m: total 3000m because could not climb on ridge itself much of the time but had to traverse back and forth across it.


expid: CHOY87301
peakid: CHOY
year: 1987
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: Japan
leaders: Michiko Takahashi
sponsor: Kamoshika Dojin Team
ascent1: 35th-37th
approach: Lhasa->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1987-09-01
smtdate: 1987-09-20
smttime: 1215
termdate: 1987-09-26
campsites: BC(01/09,5700m),C1(05/09,6350m),C2(13/09,7200m),C3(18/09,7700m),Smt(20-22/09)
accidents: None
achievment: Altitude record for parapente
routememo:
  500m fixed rope used by Sherpas. Route not difficult. Kazuyuki Takahasi made 10-minute parapente descent from very near summit to BC. The Kamoshika Dojin team, led by Michiko Takahashi succeded to climb the Cho Oyu summit from Tibetan side.

  Summit Sherpas:  
    Nima Dorji (summited Lhotse spr 1985)
    Lhakpa Tenzing (summited Everest spr 1973)
    Ang Dawa and Mingma Tenzing (1st 8000m summit for both)
    Ang Phurba?


expid: KJRS87301
peakid: KJRS
year: 1987
route1: S Face-E Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Robert Craig Calonica
sponsor: Kanjiroba S American Expedition 1987
termnote: Had permit but did not climb
accidents: None
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  Did no actual climbing. Wanted to go around to NE Ridge but porters ill equiped and park officials made movement difficult and then snowstorm hit and that finished any hope of climbing. Did move around somewhat in waist-deep snow. Had no fixed BC. Had one Sherpa with them in exploration. Schmitz and Calonica were to be the only climbers; the others were support trekkers. Did some exploration of Jagdula Khola.


expid: KHAT87301
peakid: KHAT
year: 1987
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Karl Kobler
sponsor: Khatang Expedition of the University of Bern
ascent1: 4th-7th
countries: Liechtenstein
approach: Lukla->Ghat->Mera La->Lumding Khola
bcdate: 1987-09-28
smtdate: 1987-10-14
termdate: 1987-10-17
campsites: BC(28/09,4800m),C1(03/10,5520m),C2(04/10,5850m),Smt(14-17/10)
accidents: Walter serious edema Oct 1, but recovered and returned to climb
agency: Machhapuchare
routememo:
  BC at 4800m at Isho Og Lake's SE end
  C1 at flat place of glacier NE of peak
  C2 at rock on ridge above col.

  From C1 route goes over 5700m col to 20m rock on NE Ridge where C2 pitched. Next 10 days: fixed rope and explored C2 site (thought might be at 6000m). Very difficult 300m snow ridge from 6200-6300m altitude. Route mostly 20m on to East Face from ridge using itself only short sections because more difficult and slower going. Had to fix rope on easiest possible route because members were clients and not so experienced climbers. Kobler did all route making and rope fixing. Total 2000m rope fixed including 150m to C1 and from just below Col to 6320m and 120m above 6320m.


expid: LSIS87301
peakid: LSIS
year: 1987
route1: SE Ridge of SW Summit
nation: Poland
leaders: Miroslaw Gardzielewski
sponsor: Langshisa Ri Polish Himalaya Expedition
approach: Trisuli Bazar->Dunche->Langtang Khola->Langshisa Kharka
bcdate: 1987-10-09
smtdate: 1987-10-24
termdate: 1987-10-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6145m due to lack of time
campsites: BC(09/10,4500m),C1(11/10,6400m),C2(22/10,6100m),xxx(24/10,6145m)
accidents: Bartos and Paszek chest and eye problem
achievment: Reached SW Summit
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC just above Langshisa Jhang (same as Japanese)
  C1 near col at start of ridge
  C2 at ridge running SE from summit 6145m and very near this summit
  High point on SW Summit.

  No time to go on to highest summit because had had to spend lot of time in KTM with govt routine and time running out. 2 members had chest problems and snowblindness and dropped out of climb. Jez had left on 20th Oct due to other commitments, so little personnel left. Had to fix rope on ridge above C1 and C2: 700m because very sharp narrow snow-ice and rock ridge between 11-22 Oct. 1.20m new snow in storm of 18-20 Oct followed by lot of avalanching but ridge route most affected except C1 covered by snow though tents not damaged. Beyond SW Summit it is posssible to reach highest summit but one 200m section vertical; there were serious seracs about midway between the summits. Perhaps only 2 more days climbing to highest summit and back to C2 in an alpine-style climb. All team members left BC 27th Oct except Jez, who had to leave early.


expid: LSHR87302
peakid: LSHR
year: 1987
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Adrian Burgess
sponsor: Lhotse Shar Expedition 1987
countries: USA
bcdate: 1987-08-28
smtdate: 1987-09-27
termdate: 1987-10-21
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(28/08,5200m),C1(03/09,5800m),C2.Biv(17/09,6700m),xxx(27/09,7000m)
accidents: None
agency: Sagarmatha
routememo:
  BC at normal Lhotse Shar BC site beside Lhotse Shar Glacier
  C1 at normal C1 site (platforms are there)
  C2 on SE Ridge
  High point on SE Ridge.

  Above C1 had cave where had stash of supplies but not a permanently fixed camp. Occupied it 1st on 17th and down 18th. Back up to cave 26th. On 27th at 7000m, avalanched an hour before Spaniards were higher up. This was highest point. Down to BC, up to C1, down, up to C2 again 7th Oct and again very nearly to 7000m but snow conditions so very dangerous (unconsolidated snow with 4-inch slab above it) came down again and asked to change route to Spaniards' route.

  Permit for route change took 8 days and then storm hit, dumped huge amount of snow at BC where Burgess's tent buried in 1-1/2m of snow and would not have survived. Others had similar devastation from avalanching that fatally hit Island Peak, so climb finished when learned of Island Peak disaster.


expid: LSHR87301
peakid: LSHR
year: 1987
route1: S Ridge-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Antoni Sors Ferrer
sponsor: Massana Expedition to the Himalaya - to Lhotse Shar
approach: Via Dingboche
bcdate: 1987-08-19
smtdate: 1987-09-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to death of four members
campsites: BC(19/08,5180m),C1(01/09,5800m),C2(04/09,6350m),C3(12/09,6800m),C4(26/09,7350m),xxx(29/09,7800m)
accidents: Death of four members by avalanche
achievment: Altitude record for Spanish woman
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  BC at Lhotse Shar Glacier east of Island Peak
  C1 at Col between Island Peak and South Ridge
  C2 on South Ridge
  C3 on South Ridge
  C4 at junction of S and SE Ridge.

  Most difficult section was very steep ridge with much snow and ice with a little exposed rock between C1 and C4. Fixed 2500m between C1 and C4 and 1000m more needed to C5 at 7900-8000m where seracs were seen in this section. On 27th Sep 4 members who had pitched C4 went up from C4 with all equipment from C4 to pitch biv camp at C5 site while other four from C2 to C3 and to make new C4 so could not see higher foursome as they moved up; had radio contact in morning and higher group said they were moving up. On 29th searchers found steps to about 7450m and wind slab avalanches sign on right side of SE Ridge and others in BC saw bodies. Doctor went to them and buried bodies seen, 3 high searchers climbed to 7800m, called off due to grief.


expid: JANU87301
peakid: JANU
year: 1987
route1: N Face
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Gerard van Sprang
sponsor: Netherlands Jannu Autumn Expedition
ascent1: 15th,16th
approach: Hile->Charchu Khola->Jannu Glacier
bcdate: 1987-09-18
smtdate: 1987-10-11
smttime: 0630
termdate: 1987-10-15
campsites: BC(18/09,4600m),C1(26/09,5500m),C2(30/09,6200m),Biv1(09/10,6800m),Biv2(10/10,7250m),Smt(11,13/10)
accidents: Friele HAPE in C2; Van Sprang frostbite
achievment: 1st Dutch attempt and ascent; unclimbed route
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 4600m at north side of Jannu Glacier
  C1 at 5500m on river, on 1st steep rock section.

  Oefner left Biv2 (7250m) 10-11 Oct midnight and on top 6:30 am 11th Oct, returned to Biv2 where Van Sprang was with frostbite on both feet. Other 2 summiters left Biv2 6 am 13th Oct and 1:30 pm on top, left top at 3:30 pm after making many photos and returned to Biv2 4:30 pm 11th Oct. On descent Oefner and Van Sprang bivouacked at about 6500m, 12th Oct Van Sprang and Oefner to BC. 

  14th Oct 11:30 am De Koning and Friele left Biv2 and 6 pm last radio contact at 8 pm as per schedule and believe were hit by avalanche sometime before 7 pm. On 15th were seen by Ferry at about 5500m at bottom of N Face; must have been avalanche because they were abseiling down and when found were not on same rope. 

  Technically difficult: Wall of Shadows steep ice - most difficult section below C2 and same difficult rock pitches below C1. Fixed about 1300m rope (French fixed rope of first part of route).


expid: NUPT87301
peakid: NUPT
year: 1987
route1: S Spur
nation: Italy
leaders: Enrico Rosso
sponsor: Nuptse 1987
approach: Chhukung
bcdate: 1987-09-16
smtdate: 1987-10-10
termdate: 1987-10-11
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to bad snow conditions
accidents: None
agency: Nirmal
campsites:
  BC(16/09,5100m),Biv1(07/10,6000m),Biv2(08/10,6100m),Biv3(09/10,6300m),Biv4(10-11/10,6500m),xxx(10/10,6700m)

routememo:
  BC  at 5100m at west side of Lhotse Nuptse Glacier, east of a Col
  Biv at 6000m on SE Spur (same route as Jeff Lowe)
  Biv at 6100m on SE Spur
  Biv at 6300m on SE Spur
  Biv at 6500m on SE Spur
  High point at SE spur.

  1st attack on mountain 4 Oct and reached 5900-6000m. Slept there but bad weather and down next morning. 2nd attack 7 Oct started 1:00 from BC and arrived 6000m first day and 4 bivouacs above. 10 Oct climbed to 6700m but much snow on the rock above 6200m and snow was soft (Jeff Lowe had bare rock). In steep parts bad snow, not so difficult parts, snow waist deep. 12 Oct down to BC and climb abandoned in view of fact weather going to continue bad.

  After made BC, made visit to Everest BC to look at north face of Nuptse for possible descent route.


expid: CHOY87305
peakid: CHOY
year: 1987
route1: W Ridge-W Face from S
nation: Poland
leaders: Tadeusz Karolczak, Aleksander Lwow
sponsor: Poles on Cho Oyu
ascent1: 39th
approach: Gokyo to and across Nangpa La
bcdate: 1987-09-27
smtdate: 1987-09-30
othersmts: Lobuche East
campsites: BC(27/09,5070m),Biv1(28/09,5675m),Biv2(29/09,6800m),Smt(30/09)
achievment: Fastest ascent of Cho Oyu
routememo:
  Had acclimatization on Lobuche East to summit, then went straight through Gokyo to Cho Oyu climb 27th Sept. Slept at Lunag at 5070m on Lunag glacier before start of ascent on 28th Sept. Climbed to top in 2 days in very good weather with strong wind at summit (went to both summits). No problems at all during climb: no technical problems no ill health and good weather. Had 2 sleeping bags and Polish tent without cover, no rope at all.

  It was an unauthorized attempt.


expid: PUMO87302
peakid: PUMO
year: 1987
route1: E Face
nation: France
leaders: Marc Batard
sponsor: Pumori 1987
ascent1: 32nd
bcdate: 1987-10-15
smtdate: 1987-10-25
smttime: 1230
campsites: BC(15/10,5350m),Smt(25/10)
accidents: None
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Sonam)
routememo:
  1500m rope fixed by Batard with 5 Sherpas carrying rope from 5700m to 6550m after storm on 21st. 24th Oct down to BC. 25th Batard and 3 Sherpas up the mountain climb from 4:45 am, on top 12:30 pm and back at BC at 4 pm in some difficulty because had been working on the day before. Other members got to 6200m and 6400m on 26th with Sherpas carrying tent to make a camp at 6200m, but at 6200m most members wanted to go back because of some illness and difficulty of climb. Route was as same as Americans last winter.


expid: MAK287301
peakid: MAK2
year: 1987
route1: S Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Louis Dollo
sponsor: Pyrenees Expedition to Nepal
bcdate: 1987-09-30
smtdate: 1987-10-13
termdate: 1987-10-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to snowstorm
campsites: BC(30/09,5300m),C1(03/10,6040m),C2(07/10,6550m),xxx(13/10,6800m)
accidents: Obert heart problem; 1 member and 2 porters died on return from BC
agency: Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
routememo:
  BC a little above junction of glaciers
  C1 at Chago Glacier
  C2 at 6550m Chago Glacier
  High point at Chago Glacier.

  Wanted to go to top from C2 several times carrying loads and acclimatizing. 13th Oct 4 members to 6800m in summit bid; too tired and down to BC for safety with decision to stop climb because of snow and not time enough for late attempt. 

  Obert and Saint-Martin left BC on 15th to descend for they were tired. Went with head cook and Louis Dollo to go to Tashigaon. Reached Mumbuk on 18th; 19th morning raining heavily that became snowstorm at higher altitude. 1 porter with them lost his way and died of exhaustion and exposure. 2nd porter died on trail for same reason. Jacques Saint-Martin fell down from exhaustion and very cold wind and slightly ill. 20th his body found by trekking group and buried in cave with rocks over it.

  ** 1 Rai above BC


expid: SAIP87301
peakid: SAIP
year: 1987
route1: SW Face (to 6200m)
nation: Austria
leaders: Franz Kroell
sponsor: Saipal Expedition
countries: W Germany
approach: Dhandeldhura->Chainpur->Kanda on Seti Khola
bcdate: 1987-10-17
smtdate: 1987-10-20
termdate: 1987-10-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to steep, rotten rock
othersmts: Climbed Firnkopf West (FIRW-873-01); attempted Firnkopf (FIRN-873-01)
campsites: BC(17/10,4100m),C1(18/10,4700m),xxx(20/10,6200m)
accidents: Sopka stomach trouble only
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC at left (east) moraine of Saipal Glacier
  C1 below West Ridge on glacier (Firnkopf Glacier)
  C2 below West Ridge on glacier
  C3 on West Ridge after having ascended Firnkopf Glacier's face.

  Tried for 1 week to climb W Ridge. Snowstorm 18-20th Oct made team descended to BC and waited there for it. Had to make new route in deep snow. 25th Oct from C3 to Firnkopf (named by Austrians in 1954, means snow hat) at 6630m and turned back to C3. 26th to BC. Porters ordered for 27th and left BC 27th. Had lost some time on approach march: expected it to take 8 days but took 14 days. This route easiest to climb Saipal from south but would take 2 more weeks via W Col. In to Saipal's immediate route: no avalanche danger even after snowfall via this route to Firnkopf. Returned from BC via Kandha and Dhuli to Chainpur from where flew to KTM on scheduled flight. Fixed 50m rope between C1 and C2 on glacier and 50m more from C2 to C3 on glacier.

  Remaking route was difficult because of many crevasses covered by powder snow.


  Following is from a letter to E. Hawley from Franz Kroell:

  In 1987 we went to Nepal with the permit for climbing Saipal from the south: 2nd of October we start in Kathmandu (by plane to Pokhara, with lorry to Phurbe). From Phurbe (5th October) by foot (end of the road) to Chainpur (possible by plane) and to the BC 17th of October). 18th - 20th of October we climbed on the SW Face of Saipal up to 6200m (steep; rotten rock).

  Then we focused our interest to the opposite side, to the West Ridge from Westlicher Firnkopf (Western Firnkopf) to Ostlicher Firnkopf (Eastern Firnkopf). The height of these two mountains is correct in your map (Austrian Saipal Expedition about 1950; Rudolph Jonas, Vienna).

  On 25th of October we climbed Westlicher Firnkopf (Fritz Mross, Germany; Ang Chopal, Nepal; Franz Kroell, Austria). We climbed from BC up an easy icefall, crossed this icefall and climbed up to the main ridge and followed exact the ridge to the very top of Westlicher Firnkopf. We stopped climbing on the summit and did not follow the ridge to Ostlicher Firnkopf and to Saipal.

  The climb up to Westlicher Firnkopf is an easy climb (Grade I and II/UIAA ice and snow up to 65 degrees, short fixed sections with few meters of rope crossing the glacier. 

  Far more difficult is the walk in to BC, especially the last three days. Its extremely difficult to find a trail for the porters; bears and mountain sheep are living near BC.

  There are some existing routes to climb Mt. Saipal:
    West Face of Saipal (Spanish)
    West Ridge (over Westlicher and Ostlicher Firnkopf)
    NE Ridge 
    (Maybe SE Ridge, East Face??)

  We climbed Saipal in the autumn of 1990 by the NE Ridge, flying to Simikot and walking in by Chala and the Kherang Khola to BC.

achievment:
  Reached point known as Westlicher Firnkopf on W Ridge (unknown if Jonas' Austrian team reached this point in 1954)


expid: SITA87301
peakid: SITA
year: 1987
route1: S Ridge-E Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Eric Delcasso
sponsor: Sita Chuchura Expedition
approach: Dhampus and French Passes
bcdate: 1987-10-22
smtdate: 1987-10-29
termdate: 1987-10-31
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to route impossible without rope
othersmts: Dhampus and Pt 6227m
campsites: BC(22/10,4750m),C1(25/10,5600m),Biv(28/10,5500m),xxx(29/10,6000m)
accidents: None among those who climbed
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Sonam)
routememo:
  BC  same as Dhaulagiri I BC
  C1  on East Ridge of South Col (this ridge not followed all the way to high point)
  Biv on South Ridge.
  High point on South Ridge leading to East Ridge.

  Before storm climbed Dhampus Peak, Delcasso, Rouys and Sirdar Kami Tenzing 17th Oct and 18th Oct. Delcasso and Sherpa to point 6227m on 18th Oct. Cabanne and Rouys for acclimatization and 5 other members had altitude sickness and went down below Dhampus Pass. 19th snowstorm so other 5 never joined climb. 

  4 members went to Sita Chuchura. 26th Rouys climbed up alone, arrived East Ridge at 6100m to look for good route because big icefall problem. From down below could see good route: ridge descends to icefall and this icefall not possible for 4 members only and no fixed ropes. All down to BC, but on 27th all 3 (except Delcasso) and sirdar to dome while Delcasso went to look for others. This time saw good route on E Face on other side of icefall. 28 and 29th Rouys and Kami started early in morning with tent and 2 days supply to try this route: down to Dhamla Glacier to find icefall route - down to 4600m and find one way to cross icefall from Sita Chuchura south side. Climbed rock ridge and spent one night at 5400m on this ridge and next day (29th) reached end of rock ridge via difficult sector and top of big rock was ice, so crossed below the ice cornice; here slab avalanche danger. Arrived at pass just below Sita Chuchura summit but this last ice face not possible without fixed rope. Descended to BC. All in BC 30 Oct.


expid: TUKU87301
peakid: TUKU
year: 1987
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Lluis Gomez Mestre
sponsor: Ski Tukuche 1987
ascent1: 12th
approach: Dhampus Pass
bcdate: 1987-09-20
smtdate: 1987-10-04
campsites: BC(20/09,5000m),C1(25/09,5520m),C2(28/09,6150m),Smt(04/10)
accidents: None
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  BC between Dhampus and French Passes on east side of start of ridge feeding NW
     Ridge
  C1 at junction of North and NW Ridge
  C2 on NW Ridge.

  Weather very good. Snowed during acclimatization period only. Not difficult because snow good and skied up from C1 to C2 and skied down same sector. All members did this skiing and so did sirdar Wangchu Sherpa.

  Did not ski to and from BC because no snow there nor above C2 because terrain too difficult for skiing.


expid: DHA187303
peakid: DHA1
year: 1987
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Miguel Diez Rodriguez
sponsor: Spanish Expedition to Dhaulagiri
approach: Kali Gandaki->Dhampus and French Passes
bcdate: 1987-09-12
smtdate: 1987-10-13
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to ice falling and slight frostbite
accidents: Some illness and frostnip
agency: Kunga
campsites:
  BC(12/09,4700m),C1(21/09,5100m),C2(28/09,5800m),C3(10/10,6500m),Biv1(11/10,7100m),Biv2(12/10,7400m),xxx(13/10,8000m)

routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 above icefall on plateau below Col
  C2 on NE Col
  C3 on NE Ridge
  Biv on NE Ridge
  Biv on NE Ridge
  High point at snowfield.

  All climbed NE Ridge because E Face too dangerous from big slabs of ice which broke and fell. C1 establish only on 21st Sept because 3 members had dysentery and C3 only 10th Oct because Terradez bronchitis. Summit push by Hernandez and Terradez from C2 on 10th Oct. 13th Oct reached big snowfield where Hernandez hit by block of ice and fell 50m rope together but not hurt. Decided to give up because of this and fact that on 11th was very windy and they got frostnip. Slept at 7400m bivouac that night. Next night at C3; no further attempt to scale mountain. 

  Diez had foot infection for one month and Tejedor not well acclimatized.


expid: CHOY87302
peakid: CHOY
year: 1987
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Norbert Joos
sponsor: Swiss Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 1987-09-08
smtdate: 1987-09-20
termdate: 1987-10-02
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to dangerous snow conditions
accidents: Joos lungs (edema, bronchitis)
agency: Nepal Himal
campsites:
  BC(08/09,5150m),Biv1(17/09,6100m),Biv2(18/09,6600m),Biv3(19/09,7400m),Biv4(20/09,7600m),xxx(20/09,7600m)

routememo:
  BC at Dyazumpa west side of Lungsampa Glacier near junction with Ngozumpa Glacier
  High point at 4 biv by all three members.

  From 8th to 16th bad weather. On 16th reached 6300m on region for acclimatization, but too much dangrous snow to go higher to top of point 6500m due south of Cho Oyu. On 17th started up Cho Oyu (all 3 members). Then as got high, encountered waist-deep snow: wind-blown powdered snow, also very hot. Climbed from 7400m to 7600m in night, and feared starting avalanches. On 21st down to BC. 30th Sept up from BC all 3 members and went to 6600m in night. 1st Oct 6:00 pm up to 7100m on same route. Slept till early morning 2nd Oct and then saw too dangerous from avalanching above and returned to BC. Then more snow and more wind from north so no further chance of success. Route is very good with less snow. Route to the right (as you look at mountain) of Nairz-Koblmueller-Messner route.

  Joos feared he had pulmonary edema when descended on 21st Sept to 6600m and asked for helicopter but after slept there, was better, down to BC 22nd and called off helicopter and was strong enough after medications to resume climb, but still today not fully recovered so did not go Everest. Other 2 members went to Everest BC perhaps only to visit.


expid: ANN187301
peakid: ANN1
year: 1987
route1: N Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Josep Maria Maixe
sponsor: Tarragona to 8,000 Metres Annapurna I
ascent1: 16th
bcdate: 1987-09-08
smtdate: 1987-10-08
accidents: None except stomach problems; 1 member hepatitis
achievment: 1st Spaniards to main summit
agency: Kunga
campsites:
  BC(08/09,4450m),C1(14/09,5200m),C2(18/09,5750m),C3(03/10,6650m),C4(06/10,7200m),C5(07/10,7600m),Smt(08/10)

routememo:
  Climbed German 1980 route and kept under central summit. New variation of routes on face; not exactly to French route high on mountain. Did not send more to top because too dangerous from avalanches of snow and of rock which came very near climbers several times and because very cold. Not much wind problem. Problem about 2 Sherpas at time of summit attack: they should have moved to C5 to help summiters descend but on attack day went down to C2 instead, so 2nd attack team had to support 1st one instead of making own attack.


expid: MANA87301
peakid: MANA
year: 1987
route1: NE Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Arthur Haid
sponsor: Tirolean Himalayan Expedition 1987 to Manaslu
ascent1: 28th
approach: Buri Gandaki->Samagaon
bcdate: 1987-09-10
smtdate: 1987-10-07
smttime: 1200
campsites: BC(10/09,3700m),C1(13/09,4700m),C2(18/09,5600m),C3(30/09,6620m),C4(06/10,7300m),Smt(07/10)
accidents: Hauser little frostbite; 3 members altitude sickness; no accidents
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC above Samagaon
  C1 above yak herders huts
  C2 on snowfield at bottom of icefall
  C3 on col (very windy site)
  C4 above rock ridge on face.

  Bad weather (deep snowfall and avalanches) after C2 established so had to wait before making C3. From C2 to C3 problem then icefall and not possible to ski up through this area so all skies left in C2. Snow not good for sking. Summiters left C4 5:30 am and on top at 12:00 noon in very cold wind and down to C3 at 5:00 pm. 

  No more summit bids because cold wind. 3 members sick in BC from altitude. Doctor not keen on climbing: team strength dwindling and Arthur Haid worried about old frostbite problem he has.


expid: ANN187302
peakid: ANN1
year: 1987
route1: N Face (E of Dutch Rib)
nation: Spain
leaders: Juan Carlos Gomez Ramos
sponsor: Valencia Expedition to Himalaya
ascent1: 17th
countries: Nepal
approach: Ghorepani->Ghasa->Chhoya->Thulobugin & Tanoset
bcdate: 1987-09-24
smtdate: 1987-10-11
smttime: 1300
termdate: 1987-10-12
accidents: All 3 summiters frostbitten toes and fingers; BC cook may have cerebral edema
agency: Tenzing
campsites:
  BC(24/09,4500m),C1(26/09,5200m),C2(06/10,5800m),Biv1(07/10,6250m),Biv2(08/10,6700m),Biv3(08/10,6700m),Biv4(09/10,7250m),Biv5(10,7650m),Smt(11/10)

routememo:
  BC at 4500m at normal site
  C1 at 5200m before plateau (normal site).

  C2 pitched 28th Sep, but not slept in till summit push under way begining 5th Oct when pushed straight through through with series of bivouacs till reached summit on 11th. Had done acclimatization climbing before push. Technical problems between C2 and bivouacs at 6700m with danger of avalanche below 1st bivouac. Above 1st bivouac many seracs. 11th Oct very cold wind, crampons (coming off and while putting back on, fingers frostbitten) during descent. Perez and Kaji also toes frozen on 12th when took off snow boots (Gomez toes slightly frozen). Kaji (a friend) was member of team and ate same food, etc.


expid: NGO287301
peakid: NGO2
year: 1987
route1: S Face-S Ridge
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Darko Berljak, Branko Separovic
sponsor: Zagreb Mountaineering Expedition Ngojumba Kang
ascent1: 2nd,3rd
approach: Gokyo
bcdate: 1987-10-08
smtdate: 1987-11-11
termdate: 1987-11-13
accidents: Only slight frostbite
achievment: New route; 1st autumn ascent
agency: Everest Trekking
campsites:
  BC(08-15/10,5300m),ABC(17/10,5350m),C1(27/10,5950m),C2(03/11,6450m),C3(07/11,6750m),C4(10/11,7260m),Smt(11,13/11)

routememo:
  BC  west side of Lungsampa Glacier, north of a lake and SE of point 5360m 
      on Schneider map
  ABC north of point 5420m, east of point 6088m, southwest point 5695m
  C1  at plateau just NE of point 6073m and slightly lower
  C2  east of point 6515m
  C3  just below S Ridge of Ngojumba Kang II
  C4  on South Ridge.

  Route from BC led into Ngojumba Glacier. Ridge is 45-50 degrees steepness and real snow climbing with problem of wind. More technical problems between ABC and C2: rock 350m face above ABC which needed fixing rope and above C1 had abseil down from plateau to glacier couloir. Had thought to try to go to Ngojumba C3 on 13th Nov because of strong wind (Alikalfic was blown over twice on S Ridge). Route to C3 from C2 looked easy snow flank, quite broad.

  Berljak left expedition early. He was organizer of expedition, is able to get funds, but now-a-days doesn't climb.


expid: KANG87401
peakid: KANG
year: 1987
route1: SW Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Jung Sang-Moo
sponsor: 1987-88 Korean Winter Kangchenjunga Expedition
ascent1: 24th
bcdate: 1987-12-08
smtdate: 1988-01-02
smttime: 1710
accidents: Lee Song-Ho chest illness and never reached BC (sick at low BC and below)
achievment: 1st Korean attempt
agency: Adventure Nepal
campsites:
  LowBC(08/12,5300m),BC(10/12,5500m),C1(15/12,6200m),C2(18/12,6800m),C3(27/12,7200m),C4(31/12,8000m),Smt(02/01)

routememo:
  BC at normal site Yalung Glacier
  C3 on Great Shelf.

  Icefall and 2 snow faces above BC below C1. Above C1 there were not the expected crevasses and bridges not needed. Made new C4 because were able to place C4 so high. Between 18 and 27th Dec, snowfall, strong winds and difficult climbing around many crevasses. 2nd Jan summit bid from C4 over long distance: left C4 6:00 am and on summit 5:10 pm by Lee Jeong-Chel with oxygen and returned to C4 at 9:00 pm on 1st Jan. Lee Joo-I tried without oxygen starting 4 am but at 8400m 2 toes each foot freezing so turned back at 3 pm and toes okay with treatment. Lee Jeong-Chel used oxygen on 2nd Jan intermitently. 3 Sherpas with him carrying one oxygen bottle with last of them turning back at 8400m; Lee took switches of oxygen and continued to do so while alone above 8400m. After 2 Jan, Lee needed help to treat freezing toes and weather not so good, so all members descended 3 Jan and climb finished.

  Lee Sung-Ho died from drinking bad water on approach march with "big stomach" and much diarrhea with blood and died below BC at Kunjari 11 Dec after 5 days illness; Dil Bahadur Rai died 10 Dec of altitude sickness after carrying load to BC on 9th Dec.


expid: NGOJ87401
peakid: NGOJ
year: 1987
route1: SE Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Chung Jin-Yang
sponsor: 1987-88 Korean Winter Cho Oyu-Ngojumba Kang Expedition
ascent1: 3rd
bcdate: 1988-01-21
smtdate: 1988-02-11
smttime: 1630
termdate: 1988-02-14
othersmts: Had permit for Cho Oyu
campsites: BC(21/01,5100m),C1(29/01,5700m),C2(01/02,6250m),C3(07/02,7000m),C4(09/02,7300m),Smt(11/02)
accidents: None
achievment: 1 winter ascent Ngojumba in 1st Korean attempt
agency: Adventure Nepal
routememo:
  BC at Lungsampa Glacier's west edge, NE of point 5360m
  C1 near "west" of black type Lungsampa
  C2 north (above) point 6515m on S Face
  C3 on SE Face of Ngojumba Kang I
  C4 on SE Face.

  1st summit attack on 10th Feb, but very difficult with crevasses and icefall and strong wind and very cold; turned back at 7500m. 

  11th 6 am start from C4 and on top 4:30 pm (stayed 20 minutes for photos) and back in C4 7:20 pm. Had tried from Ngojumba top to go to Cho Oyu 1 hour and clouds coming with weather change and were told to return to C4. 

  12th 6 am Cho Oyu attack again tried but weather bad and returned from 7600m and down to C4 that day and on to BC 13th. All climbers to BC on 13th and 14th left BC. 
  Total 2000m fixed rope (C1 to C3 and just below summit). Very very difficult: very steep-stone avalanching every day; rock band above C4.

  Only attempt to go to Cho Oyu was made on 12 Feb from Ngojumba summit.


expid: ANN187401
peakid: ANN1
year: 1987
route1: E Buttress of S Face
nation: Canada
leaders: Stephen Adamson
sponsor: 1987 Annapurna I Winter Expedition
countries: USA
bcdate: 1987-11-20
smtdate: 1987-12-10
termdate: 1987-12-16
termnote: Abandoned at 6115m due to shortage of supplies
campsites: BC(20/11,4115m),C1(03/12,5030m),C2(06/12,5335m),C3(10/12,6115m),xxx(10/12,6115m)
accidents: None
agency: Rover Treks
routememo:
  BC at 4115m left bank of Annapurna Sanctuary Glacier
  C1 at moraine foot of glacier of Glacier Dome
  C3 on snow ridge at top of rock buttress.

  Storm coming as made C3 and went down to BC. Then storm over in 2 days, were below avalanche slopes and had to wait for avalanching to stop, but were now running out of supplies so climb over. A dangerous face on which must pick route carefully. 

  Canadian $28,000 total budget including airfare meant sparse supplies. Rather difficult rock climbing of 1200 ft on rock buttress - ice climbing not so difficult as the rock. Fixed 4000 ft (1300m) rope through icefall between C2 and C3 and then all of rock buttress and sections of snow and ice above buttress to C3 - icefall has unstable seracs. Fixed ropes cut 3 times a day: very dangerous icefall. 4 members got caught in avalanche between BC and C1 during storm on 15th in descent but not hurt though Reville had to be dug out. Adamson caught in rockfall but only bruised. No one really wanted to go through these dangerous areas. Reville left immediately after was dug out. Robertson left before climb was over, about 6 Dec; had not expected to do much climbing.


expid: AMAD87401
peakid: AMAD
year: 1987
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Annie Whitehouse
sponsor: American Ama Dablam Tawoche Expedition
ascent1: 55th-57th
approach: Mingbo La
bcdate: 1987-11-18
smtdate: 1987-11-23
smttime: 1200
othersmts: Had permit for Tawoche (TAWO-874-01)
campsites: BC(18/11,4570m),C1(20/11,5490m),C2(21/11,5790m),C3(22/11,6250m),Smt(23,26/11)
accidents: Dimitri sick; no other problems
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC at Mingbo BC.
   
  Tawoche was to have been attempted before Ama Dablam but was not because of deep snow at base of mountain and no ice in couloir which had planned to climb (all bare rock).

  All summiters banned from Nepal climbing for 5 years because they climbed before winter season began.


  Final Expedition Report - Dec 4, 1987

  Report of Safety Conditions and Reports from other Post Monsoon Expeditions.

  Chronology of Approach - Sept 29 Clay Wadman flew KTM to Lukla. Nov 3 Todd Bibler, Eric Reynolds, Sandy Stewart and Michael Dimitri flew to Lukla. On Nov 6 these five members banded together in Namche Bazar. Meanwhile, on Nov 6 Annie Whitehouse left KTM to Jiri by bus with 11 trekkers. She was leading a trek to Kalapattar. The group of five climbers proceded to Pheriche on the 10th of Nov. Our original plan and permit called for an attempt on Tawoche (6542m). Several days routes and conditions on Tawache made, on Nov 14-16. Plans for an ascent of Tawoche were abandoned as it was clearly unsafe. On Nov 17 the team decided to move on to our second objective, the ascent of Ama Dablam (6856m). First, we moved to Mingbo base camp on Nov 18-19. Then our intention was to conduct a reconnaissance of the route on Ama Dablam, in the hope of discovering safer conditions than on Taweche. Since we had already at this point forfeited our Tawoche permit and it looked like a similar situation was on Ama Dablam, all members were discouraged.

  Immediately upon arrival in Nepal we heard about the huge 2-meter snowstorm of late October. Enroute to Pheriche we had the chance to meet and talk first hand to members of five expeditions to peaks in the near vicinity of our objectives. (South Face of Nuptse, South Face of Lhotse Shar, Ama Dablam North Ridge, Ama Dablam NW Ridge and Ama Dablam SW Ridge). All these expeditions had failed and had retreated in the face of many avalanches, deep unconsolidated snow, and the belief and these were among the most serious and dangerous conditions they had encountered. We also, of course, were very discouraged and saddened to hear of the deaths of twelve climbers and trekkers in the Khumbu and an additional ten in nearby Tibet - all as a result of the big storm and resulting conditions.

  Todd Bibler and Sandy Stewart on the 14th to 16 on Nov found several approaches to Tawoche to have deep unconsolidated granular snow. This type of snowpack is familiar to us as being a particularly dangerous condition, know as temperature gradient snow. Several of the expedition members have Professional Avalanche Forecasting experience in Colorado. We have seen these type of conditions there frequently associated with major avalanches and also know that it is a condition that can take many weeks, even months, to stablize. To make conditions for climbing even more hazardous in our opinion was a period of sunny weather which causes a thin melted smooth glaze to appear on the surface of the snowpack. In this case, even a snowfall from a new storm or windblown snow, can cause avalanche as it is such a smooth sliding surface.

  Summary of Ascent Details - Because of the above conditions we approached the mountain with great care, respect and even fear. On Nov 20 Sandy Stewart and Eric Reynolds as one party and Todd Bibler and Michael Dimitri as a second party left Mingbo base camp (15,000 ft) with full loads to break a trail through deep snow to C1. As our BC was lower than that used by many, we were faced about 10 km of hard trudging. We intended to cache loads and prepare the route for a later ascent. On the 21st of Nov, Michael and Todd descended because of Michael's feeling of illness. Stewart and Reynolds continued route preparation from C1 to C2. Upon reaching C2 they observing high winds blowing off the summits of the Thamserku and Kangtega, as well as "meretails" and large lenticular clouds building on the summit of Mt. Everest. Both knew from previous Nepal and MT Everest experience that this almost always meant a storm approaching. Believing that this strong wind would destroy any possibility of a safe ascent they decided to go for the summit as quickly as possible.

  C3 was established by Stewart and Reynolds at 20,500 ft on Nov 22. They climbed to the summit and returned for another night at C3 on Nov 23. (It is important to say that the summit day of climbing is very steep and that there is no chance to belay or use safety anchors. Because of this it is especially vulnerable to the surface glaze avalanche conditions we described).

  Meanwhile, Annie Whitehouse had arrived at Mingbo BC, having been delayed by poor road conditions to Jiri and the evacuation of an ill trekker. On Nov 23 Wadman and Whitehouse left BC and acclimatized a night on open snowfields at 17,000 ft. On the 24th Stewart and Reynolds met Wadman to immediately go on towards the summit because of the continuing threatening weather conditions. Ropes were in place, camp platforms dug, and key supplies left behind (tent, stove, food) to aid them. On Nov 25 Whitehouse and Wadman made their camp 3 at 20,000 ft. On 26th they summited at noon in very cold, windy extreme conditions. Their descent to BC was made on the 27th.

  Todd Bibler seeing the deteriorating weather conditions made a bold quick solo ascent on the 25th and 26th.

  All members assembled together at BC for celebration to a safe ascent on the 28th. BC was abandoned on the 30th of Nov.


expid: DHA187401
peakid: DHA1
year: 1987
route1: NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Marc Batard
sponsor: Dhaulagiri 1987 - First Winter French Expedition
ascent1: 33rd
approach: Sherpas & Batard->BC via trek (Batard->Jomsom)
bcdate: 1987-11-15
smtdate: 1987-12-02
smttime: 1230
termdate: 1987-12-09
campsites: BC(15/11,4700m),C1(18/11,6000m),C2(23/11,7100m),Smt(02/12)
accidents: Marcelot altitude sickness; Sungdare some frostbite (fingers & toes) but will heal
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 above NE Col at start of NE Ridge (in ice cave)
  C2 on East Face just near ridge (again ice cave).

  Took special ice cutting tool from Chamonix to make huge ice cave at C1 and C2; only little fixed rope in place so put over 2000m of rope from 6600m to 7600m for Sherpas and other French members. Batard to BC 29th Nov, rested at BC 30th Nov and 1st Dec and up from BC with 2 French and 4-5 Sherpas. Batard and Sungdare to C2 on 1st Dec, other 4-5 climbers to C1. 2nd Dec Batard and Sungdare at 5:30 am from C2 and reached top 12:30 pm and to C3. 3rd Dec down from C2 to BC. Other French did not go above C1 because of some illness and some not psychologically prepared to tackle seracs and crevasses of Dhaulagiri. Batard tried on 6th Dec for top but wind too strong to reach C2. Batard left BC 8th Dec and others on 9th Dec.


expid: CHOY87401
peakid: CHOY
year: 1987
route1: W Ridge-W Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Fernando Garrido
sponsor: Fernando Garrido Winter Expedition Cho Oyo
ascent1: 41st
bcdate: 1988-01-10
smtdate: 1988-02-06
smttime: 1800
termdate: 1988-02-08
campsites: BC(10/01,5200m),BC2(22/01,5400m),C1(20/01,5850m),C2(29/01,6400m),C3(04/02,7000m),Smt(06/02)
accidents: No frostbite ('I was afraid of it but I got none')
achievment: 1st winter solo of any 8000er, 1st solo of Cho Oyu
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  1st BC at normal site (west of point 6296m)
  2nd BC "g" of Nangpa Glacier
  C1  at Gyabrag Glacier (near "a" of Glacier)
  C2  at start of West Ridge, just south of point 6446m
  C3  very little down on side of major sharp West Ridge.

  "I did it" - Tenzing helped me to make C1 and then I climbed alone. I went slowly, took 4 days". 29th Garrido went alone with gear for C2 and slept there, came down to BC on 30th. 1st Feb started up from BC with Tenzing to C1 (Tenzing and runner carried food supplies while Garrido carried no load). (24th-26th new BC destroyed by wind). 1st Feb slept in C1. 2nd Feb Garrido started solo push leaving Tenzing to wait and take photos with long lens (route not visible from BC). Garrido slept in C2 2nd and rested there on 3rd because too windy to continue upwards. 4th Slept in movable tent at 7000m. 5th tried to go to top but too late start (at 9:00 am) and went only tp 7600m before returning to C3 at 7000m. 6th started up again, this time with sleeping bag (without food, drink, fuel) and left sleeping bag and rucksack at 7600m and taking only camera, headlamp and ice axe. Moved very fast towards top and reached summit at 6 pm (found empty oxygen bottle only, no poles. Went all way aroud rim of volcano-like structure). Getting dark at summit; in descent could follow own tracks to rocky barrier where had some trouble but reached sleeping bag at 10 pm. Had been very windy all day and throughout night but not too cold and had rock protection. 7th to C3 only beaues very tired. 8th to C1 and fixed no ropes so had problems descending to rocky areas - also had only ice axe.
   
  Wants next climb also solo on 8000er: "I don't like to climb with people."

  This was the first winter solo ascent of any 8000er and the first solo of Cho Oyu.

  Garrido crossed the Nangpa La from Nepal into Tibet and scaled the standard (Tichy) route entirely alone from his C1 at 5850m on the Gyabrag Glacier near the site of advance base camps for many teams starting from within Tibet. Two Nepalis had helped him establish and stock C1, and one of them remained in that camp to take photos with a long lens while Garrido made his summit push. He started up on 2nd Feb, climbed to his C2 at 6400m to where he alone had previously carried its gear, and slept there two nights, waiting for the winds to abate. On the 4th he moved up with a tent to 7000m and slept there, and on the 5th tried to go to the summit. But he had made too late a start on the 5th (he did not move till 9:00 am) and went to only 7600m before retreatng to C3 at 7000m. On the 6th he left C3 at 7:30 am, took no tent, food or fuel but only a sleeping bag, which he left at 7600m. From there he continued up with only a camera, headlamp and one ice axe. He moved very fast towards the summit, went all the way around the summit rim to make sure he reached the very highest point, which he reached at about 6:00 pm. In his descent, although it was now getting dark, he could follow his own tracks until he reached a rock barrier, where he had trouble finding his way. He had fixed no rope, but managed at 10:00 pm to find his sleeping bag and bivouaced at 7600m. It was very windy all the day and the wind continued throughout the night, but he had protection from the rock, and the temperature was not extremely low; he did not get frostbitten. On the 7th he went down only as far as C3 at 7000m because of exhaustion, but on the 8th he rejoined his Sherpa at C1. He claimed the first winter solo ascent of any 8000m mountain and the first solo of Cho Oyu.


expid: ANNS87401
peakid: ANNS
year: 1987
route1: SW Ridge-S Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Masami Yamagata
sponsor: Hakuhoukai Annapurna Dakshin Expedition 1987-88
approach: Khymnu Khola
bcdate: 1987-11-30
smtdate: 1987-12-21
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to lack of rope above high point
campsites: BC(30/11,3700m),C1(06/12,4800m),C2(12/12,5300m),C3(19/12,5600m),xxx(21/12,5800m)
accidents: None
agency: Express
routememo:
  BC at Khyumu Glacier at head of Khyumu Khola, south of mountain
  C1 on SW Ridge
  C2 on SW Ridge
  C3 on SW Ridge.

  Tried S Face only one day and big ice avalanche came down when hanging glacier's top broke off leaving rest of it to threaten falling (no one hurt) so changed route to SW Ridge. High point at 5800m because fixed rope finished (had used up 3000m of rope) and needed 3000m more because of many rock pinnacles necessary to go up to top of and then down again. Ridge almost old rock with some snow. 

  Had planned to follow Japanese 1978 Autumn route via ridge to S Face but did not get on to face (did not get to that point to that ridge).


expid: ANN187403
peakid: ANN1
year: 1987
route1: S Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Kuniaki Yagihara
sponsor: Gunma Mtng Federation Annapurna I S Face Expedition
ascent1: 18th
bcdate: 1987-11-23
smtdate: 1987-12-20
smttime: 1515
othersmts: Climbed Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak)
campsites: BC(23/11,4300m),C1(02/12,5200m),C2(03/12,6100m),C3(10/12,6850m),C4(17/12,7400m),Smt(20/12)
accidents: Sato and 1 Sherpa injured by avalanching
agency: Express
routememo:
  Changed C3 site twice because stone and snow avalanche. 1st one pitched 6th Dec, but one member Sato hit in leg by big stone and stopped climbing.

  Route above C2 was new and to left of Bonington route: Bonington team was on ridge but "that ridge's left which was a little risky" because of soft ice/hard snow. Difficult climbing was from C3 to C4 because very steep rock and loose rock and often stonefall. 45-50 fixed ropes of 50m from C1 to mini-rockband at 7700m; made route from C4 to mini-rockband in 2 days with about 400m rope here, then to top. 20th Dec 3 men left C2 at 3:40 am and Seagusa at 6 am because headlamp broken and he waited for daylight, joined others at 7700m at 9:40 am; above 7700m slow going (fixed only one rope).

  The route was basically the Bonington route of spring 1970, but above C2 at 6100m. Bonington's ridge was "very bad" because of loose powdered snow, so team took a couloir to its left; the couloir itself was a "little risky" because of soft ice/hard snow which was difficult to climb. They rejoined Bonington route at section of all was very steep rock between C3 and C4 (6850m and 7400m); rock was unstable and loose pieces were frequently falling, injuring a member and a Sherpa. The site of C3 was changed twice because of stone fall and snow avalanches. No bottled oxygen was used because their entire supply was in C1 and was swept away by an avalanche early in the climb.

  Kobayashi fell to his death at 7900m. Saito fell just 20 meters above C4. Apparently their falls were caused by fatigue.

  Accidents besides the fatal falls and Sato's leg was Sherpa's shoulder and head struck by ice 3 Dec avalanche at C1 which took away all oxygen and much fuel, food and gear; but had 2 months supply of food and fuel and many spare pieces of equipment (but not oxygen).                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   
  Had permit for Glacier Dome for acclimatization but made no attempt.

  Saegusa had no headlamps so came quickly. Yagihara and Saito down together. 7900m Kobayashi slipped down; maybe snow some places hard and flat and some soft: slipped in bad snow.

  Saito very tired; with Yamada on same rope and Yamada at C4 just waited 15 minutes and Saito didn't come. Saegusa saw him fall. Yamada called and Saito answered 2-3 times). Saegusa went to Saito and Saito asked for water and then fell in dark (he had no headlamp); searched but couldn't find him with headlamp.

  Planned 2 summit bids but after accident all stopped. 2nd bid to be by Nazuka, Sato and Akuzawa on 22nd Dec.

  3rd Dec avalanche lost much equipment and food but no one hurt.


  Steve Adamson - 24 Dec 7

  Japanese Annapurna I South Face

  Adamson left 16 Dec. Japanese planning summit bid 21 Dec. Their C1 had been avalanched twice. Bonington route at higher part. Willing to lose 4 Japanese and 4 Sherpas before giving up - they will make it.


expid: LANG87401
peakid: LANG
year: 1987
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Wojciech Maslowski
sponsor: Polish Langtang Lirung Winter Expedition
ascent1: 8th
approach: Via Langtang Village and Kyanjin Gompa
bcdate: 1987-12-10
smtdate: 1988-01-03
smttime: 1340
campsites: BC(10/12,3800m),ABC(11/12,4250m),C1(15/12,5100m),C2(23/12,5880m),C3(02/01,6500m),Smt(03/01)
accidents: Knapczyk hit by falling stone on shoulder and left BC
achievment: 1st winter and 1st Polish ascents
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at Kyanju Gompa lodge
  ABC near moraine of Lirung Glacier
  C1  at left side of snow couloir coming down from Col
  C2  on SE Ridge
  C3  on SE Ridge.

  Difficult to find site for C2 on very sharp rock-snow ridge. Fixed rope from C1 to C3. Most difficult sector was between C2 and C3 where much moving rock on steep, sharp ridge with serac barrier just before C3. 

  2nd summit team [Dudek and Papaj] on 5th Jan tried for top from C3 which they had established on 2nd, gone down to C2; went 100m above C3 on 5th but stopped by wind.

  Did not attempt SE Face because not enough snow which meant much falling stone which too dangerous to encounter; perhaps fast alpine-style might be okay. 

  Had fine weather throughout climb until 5th Jan. Route from ABC to C1 to left of Japanese 1986 spring route and C1 higher.


expid: MAKA87401
peakid: MAKA
year: 1987
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Andrzej Machnik
sponsor: Polish Winter Makalu Expedition 1987-88
countries: Brazil, Canada, USA
bcdate: 1987-12-08
smtdate: 1988-01-20
termdate: 1988-01-25
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to strong winds
accidents: Wesolouski had paratyphoid and Fligiel heart trouble, nothing else
achievment: Brondolin claims Brazilian altitude record of 7200m
agency: Basanta Adventure Treks
campsites:
  BC(08/12,4850m),ABC(10/12,5200m),C1(16/12,5750m),C2(20/12,6400m),C3(31/12,6850m),xxx(20-22/01,7500m)

routememo:
  BC  west of Barun Pokhari (protected from wind but no water)
  ABC at mouth of Chago Glacier just north of junction
  C1  at small rock rib between the 2 glaciers (standard site route)
  C2  at snow cave in small cwm below 6500m Col
  C3  at snow cave at beginning of steep section and couloir west of Makalu La
  High point at start of NW Ridge. 

  Made C2 west of Kangchungtse because too long carries and too much fixed rope for team of only 4 climbing members to go normal route. Above C3 climbed steeper of 2 couloirs by passing Makalu La. Intended to pitch C4 at about 7500m but never actually set up camp. Evans went up on 20th with camp gear and on 22nd retrieved it. In 1st half of January were terrible windstorms and on 12th Jan heavy snowfall. Even in late Jan when clearing mountain, often could not stand up. This is Machnik's 4th winter expedition and never such severe winds; even down to ABC 60-80 mph gusts and at C3 area up to 100 mph and below rocks off mountain. Had lost time early in expedition carrying up equipment for big expedition but only 4 members actually did serious climbing after others claimed illness and stayed on at ABC/BC. 4 members were the real climbers and Jedlinski got fed up and quit early. "Four-man expedition with big anchor behind" (anchor = members at base complaining about supplies and waiting to go home). Doctor not able to climb much because looking after sick men.

  Evans went on 22nd from C3 to try for top with biv at 7700m or more and set highest point possible but terrible cold winds (-15 degrees F and constant 60-70 mph).

  Sherpas: none above ABC till 3 went to C1 to help clear off gear.

  Nine member team soon composed of only four climbing members, mostly because of illness. C2 was pitched in a small cwm west of Kangchungtse directly below 6500m col in ridge between Kangchungtse and Chago because for small team load carries would be too long and too much fixed rope would be needed if they followed standard route exactly. Above C3, they climbed the steeper of two couloirs bypassing Makalu La and intended to place C4 at start of NW Ridge at 7500m, but never actually pitched camp, although Evans dumped supply load at site on 20 Jan. On 22 Jan he returned to 7500m to try for summit with a bivouac at 7700m or higher, but fierce cold winds of up to 100 mph prevented him from doing more than retrieving supplies.


expid: DHA187402
peakid: DHA1
year: 1987
route1: E Face-NE Ridge
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Stane Belak
sponsor: Slovene Dhaulagiri Winter Expedition
ascent1: 34th
approach: Jomsom->Marpha->Hidden Valley->Thapa Khola->Larjung->BC
bcdate: 1987-11-27
smtdate: 1987-12-04
smttime: 1700
campsites: BC(27/11,4150m),Biv1(01/12,5500m),Biv2(02/12,5900m),Biv3(03/12,6600m),Biv4(04/12,8000m),Smt(04/12)
accidents: Kozjek developed serious pulmonary edema and had slight frostbite
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  Face in bad condition: all rock and powder of rock which wind carried and went in to climber's lungs. Had already planned to go from face to NE Ridge at about 6000m and this they did. Did not intend this time to go high on face as in Autumn 1985. Followed 1985 route to 5900m plateau; most of rest of route above was 1981 descent route. Reached normal route at 6000m. Route followed was same as in Spring 1986 with difference, this time route completed. Last 200m was SW, winds up to 200 kph and climbers had to go on hands and knees. 

  Belak and Kozjek tried for summit twice [4 Dec and 7 Dec].

  Did acclimatization in Dhampus Pass-French pass area on small unnamed peak.


expid: ANN187402
peakid: ANN1
year: 1987
route1: N Face (French rte)
nation: Japan
leaders: Yoshitomi Okura
sponsor: Tokyo Annapurna I Winter Expedition 1987
bcdate: 1987-11-22
smtdate: 1987-12-05
termdate: 1987-12-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to difficulty of route without fixed rope
campsites: BC(22/11,4200m),C1(01/12,4900m),C2(02/12,5430m),C3(04/12,6000m),xxx(05/12,6100m)
accidents: None
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at normal site (good: no snow, water is near)
  C2 same as French C2
  C3 well below French C3.

  5th Dec reached 6100m and here route is ice wall and loose rock, but had no rope and pitons so turned back to C1 and 6th Dec to BC. Climb finished. 

  Looked at other possible routes, but too difficult for 2 men only. 

  Weather very good every day except 3rd Dec when strong wind and little snowfall which wind carried away. Very little snow was on N Face. Many crevasses, very dangerous C1 to C2, 14 big crevasses (1-3m wide with very small snow bridges) and C2 to C3, 3 or 4 big ones. Above C3 to French C4 very difficult ice, no snow at all. Left BC 18th Dec after waiting for porters (12 Dec heavy snowfall).


expid: DHA189304
peakid: DHA1
year: 1989
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Jordi Magrina Guell
sponsor: Kellogg's Dhaulagiri Expedition
bcdate: 1989-09-17
smtdate: 1989-09-26
termdate: 1989-10-12
termnote: Abandoned at 6750m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(17/09,4700m),C1(19/09,5700m),C2(26/09,6750m),xxx(26/09,6750m)
accidents: None
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  C1 at NE Col
  C2 on NE Ridge.

  After establish C2 avalanching very bad and down on 27th to C1, where spent 5 days and then to BC. Up again 9th Oct to C1, 3 days and reached 100m below C2 on 12th, turned back because snow very deep (to top of legs) and very dangerous from slab avalanches.


expid: DHA189301
peakid: DHA1
year: 1989
route1: W Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Francesc Dalmeses Cunill
sponsor: Dhaulagiri 1989 - to Dhaulagiri I
countries: Andorra
bcdate: 1989-08-27
smtdate: 1989-10-09
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m+ due to deep snow and avalanche danger
campsites: BC(27/08,3750m),Bivs,xxx(09/10,7600m+)
accidents: Jordi frostbitten toes on both feet; Dalmases disappeared
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  C2 a series of bivs
  C3 up West Face.

  After initial acclimatization period, the 2 climbing members began their climb of W Face on 3rd Oct. No camps above BC. On 7th day (9th Oct) they reached 7600m, where face ends at ridge; there was a lot of deep snow on the mountain and grave avalanche danger; Jordi decided to descend via North Face (which Dalmases also intended to descend if not the NE Ridge). Jordi came down N Face and reached Lavier's BC on 14th Oct, exhausted and with badly frostbitten toes. Was helicoptered to KTM with Lavier from BC on 17th Oct. Dalmases not seen after Jordi left him; his girl friend waits for him at BC.


  Esteve, French military expedition leader - 20 Oct 1989 

  2 Spaniards started up on 5th Oct, reached 7600m on 9th. Feet of both men very cold for past 2 days and Jordi wanted to descend from 7600m across N Face whereas Dalmases said that would be fatal, that it would be safer to go to summit and down normal route. It took Jordi 5 days to traverse N Face in a diagonal crossing and was seen from French BC in morning of 14th. He had had with him a tent (which Dalmases did not) plus sleeping bag, stove, gas and food (which Dalmases did). Esteve thinks Dalmases probably became exhausted, rested, fell asleep and froze to death.


  Swiss German-Austrian-Mexican Dhaulagiri I Expedition, Spring 1995 led by Norbert Joos

  German summiter Albrecht Hammann died near the summit in his decent. His body lies on its back and is seen by most Dhaulagiri I summiters via the NE Ridge.

  The father of a Spanish climber, Quico Dalmases, came to believe that this body was that of his son who disappeared when he was climbing alone in the autumn of 1989, and the father, Joan Dalmases, appealed in the spring of 2007 to climbers that season to check various details to identify the body as that of Quico.

  Inaki Ochoa, one of the climbers whom Dalmases asked for help, summited Dhaulagiri I on 26 April 2007, said that the body was that of the German on Norbert Joo's team in the spring of 1995. The kind of crampons worn by the body did not exist in 1989.


  Gian Mario Merelli & Mariarosa Morotti - 4 May 2007  (DHA1-071-03)

  Morotti said she saw two bodies near the summit. One was at a small col on the ridge that leads eastward to the top; it is, she says, the body of the Spanish climber, Quico Dalmases, who went missing in 1989. The other was slightly below the Col (and is perhaps a German [Albrecht Hammann who died in 1995]).


expid: DHA189302
peakid: DHA1
year: 1989
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Ignacio Olaizola
sponsor: Gipuzkopako Expedition Himalaya - to Dhaulagiri I
bcdate: 1989-09-06
smtdate: 1989-09-21
termdate: 1989-10-16
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to dangerous snow conditions and wind
campsites: BC(06/09,4700m),C1(11/09,5100m),C2(19/09,5700m),C3(21/09,6500m),xxx(21/09,6500m)
accidents: 1 member pulmonary edema
agency: Amtrek
routememo:
  C1 at plateau
  C2 at NE Col
  C3 on NE Ridge near big serac at start of ridge 
  High point at C3.

  Try 3 times to go to C4. 1st time French Sherpa's fatal accident. Later too much snow and wind very dangerous even above C2. At mountain 40 days and only 2 days of sunshine all day. Glacier from BC to C1 very dangerous with crevasses opening (necessary to change the rope). Fixed 500m rope with French in this section.


expid: DHA189303
peakid: DHA1
year: 1989
route1: NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Alain Esteve
sponsor: Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne (GMHM)
bcdate: 1989-09-11
smtdate: 1989-09-25
termdate: 1989-10-11
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to dangerous snow conditions
campsites: BC(11/09,4700m),C1(15/09,5700m),C2(19/09,6450m),xxx(25/09,7100m)
accidents: 1 member Mailly edema; 1 member gastroenteritis (left BC Sep 19); 2 Sherpas fatal avalanche
agency: Amtrek
routememo:
  BC at normal site for NE Ridge
  C1 just below NE Col
  C2 just below steep part of NE Ridge
  High point at NE Ridge.

  C2 slept in on 24th Sept for first time; next day 2 members & 4 Sherpas up from C2 to reach C3 in snowy weather; at 7100m at 1:00 pm reported by radio they had deposited their loads here, 200m below expected C3 site, because snowfall increasing. 2 Sherpas in descent disappeared; little avalanche pushed 2 members 10-15m while on fixed rope; no trace of Sherpas. Now heavy snowfall; three times up to C1 but snow too deep at col to go higher; last time was 10th Oct. 11th Oct reached C2 in snow up to top of legs. Decided climb too dangerous so dismantled C2.


expid: DHA189305
peakid: DHA1
year: 1989
route1: NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Alain Bigey
sponsor: Gahm Dhaulagiri 1989 Expedition
countries: Spain
approach: Kali Gandaki->Dhampus and French Passes
bcdate: 1989-09-17
smtdate: 1989-09-24
termdate: 1989-10-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to snow conditions and lack of time
campsites: BC(17/09,4600m),C1(19/09,5700m),C2(24/09,6500m),xxx(24/09,6500m)
accidents: None
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at col between Tukuche and Dhaulagiri
  C2 at beginning of NE Ridge
  High point at C2 site.

  24th slept in C1; stayed C1 waiting for good weather but snowed everyday and French Military expedition had fatal avalanche. 28th tried to go to C3 to retrieve gear but at 6300m snow conditions too dangerous and descended. 29th to BC. Was snowing again on 28th and 1m deep snow. Left BC 1 Oct. 

  Gave up attempt because had to leave Nepal on 12th Oct. Icefall had been well-equipped by time this team arrived.


expid: DHA189306
peakid: DHA1
year: 1989
route1: NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Christophe Profit
sponsor: Lhotse S Face en Duo - to Dhaulagiri I
countries: Spain
bcdate: 1989-10-12
smtdate: 1989-11-14
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to fierce wind and extreme cold
campsites: BC(12/10,4750m),C1(21/10,5800m),C2(26/10,6500m),C3(09/11,7100m),xxx(14/11,7800m)
accidents: None
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  1st attempt Nov up from C2 to see ridge, then down to BC. Placed C3 during 2nd summit bid. 10th Nov too much wind and had to go down after ascending only 100m above C3. 3rd attempt also defeated by wind and cold (-50 degrees).

  Summit Attempts
  1st:   3-6th Nov - Profit, Lucas and Tavernier (too much snow avalanche)
  2nd:  9-10th Nov - Profit and Tavernier to 7200m (wind)
  3rd: 13-14th Nov - Lucas and Profit to 7800m (wind and cold)


expid: CHUR89301
peakid: CHUR
year: 1989
route1: SE Face
nation: UK
leaders: Chuck Evans
sponsor: British 1989 Churen Himal Expedition
ascent1: 3rd
approach: Pokhara->Myagdi Khola->Lulang->Kaphe Khola->BC
bcdate: 1989-10-01
smtdate: 1989-10-26
smttime: 1225
accidents: 'We had the odd fall but all intact' though one cracked rib by Roger in descent from top
achievment: 1st British ascent of any Churen Peak
agency: Mountain Travel
campsites:
  BC(01/10,4100m),TempC(03/10,4750m),C1(06/10,5100m),C2(10/10,5840m),C3(17/10,6200m),C4(19/10,6600m),C5(25/10,6850m),Smt(26/10)

routememo:
  BC at Kaphe Khola (point 4100m north)
  TC on main glacier east of point 4738 at feet of another glaced from Gustang north
  C1 just west of base of South Ridge
  C2 on North Ridge of Ghustang North - top of rock wall
  C3 on West Face of Dhaulagiri III
  C4 at top shelf above serac band, WSW of point 6921m
  C5 on SE Face-Ridge SE from middle summit.

  Very circuitous route because of huge threatening seracs. To get to C5 had to drop down and then go up again second shelf. Was difficulty between every camp and a bit of descent between each camp. Ravens stole food at C4 and C5 leaving 2 men with no food for 2 days.


expid: DHAM89301
peakid: DHAM
year: 1989
route1: SW Face-W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Shigeyuki Baba
sponsor: Okinawa Pref. Ryukyu University Alpine Club Dhampus Expedition
ascent1: 7th official
approach: Via Marpha
bcdate: 1989-10-13
smtdate: 1989-10-15
smttime: 1523
campsites: BC(13/10,4700m),C1(14/10,5150m),Smt(15/10)
accidents: 2 members altitude sickness
agency: Guides For All Seasons
routememo:
  BC southwest of point 4905m between two ridges
  C1 at bottom of small ridge leading to West Ridge.

  Route lay on to small ridge leading to W Ridge and then to summit. Summit attack (there was only one) from C1 at 7:40 am and on top at 3:23 pm and stayed 15 minutes; down to BC at 7:10 pm.


expid: GURJ89301
peakid: GURJ
year: 1989
route1: W Face
nation: France
leaders: Patrick Gendey
sponsor: Objective 7000: French Expedition to Gurja Himal
bcdate: 1989-10-17
smtdate: 1989-10-30
termdate: 1989-11-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to cold wind and deep snow, no time
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Yangrima
campsites:
  BC(17/10,4100m),C1(21/10,4700m),C2(24/10,5000m),C3(27/10,5850m),C4(28/10,5850m),C5(29/10,6200m),xxx(30/10,6400m)

routememo:
  BC at point 4100m on Japanese Dhaulagiri map (Kaphe Khola)
  C1 south of pt 4738m on lower Kaphe Glacier
  C2 at same place as British Churen's C1 this season
  C3 at plateau on N Ridge of Ghustung North
  C4 at bottom of small ridge running west from Gurja's N Ridge
  C5 on slope of west side of North Ridge.
  High point on slope.

  Tried to go to summit from C5 and reached 6400m but snow deep, cold and very windy and no time left.


expid: KAND89301
peakid: KAND
year: 1989
route1: NW Ridge of N Peak
nation: UK
leaders: Garry Kennard
sponsor: British Kande Hiunchuli Expedition
bcdate: 1989-10-18
smtdate: 1989-10-28
termdate: 1989-11-05
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(18/10,4050m),C1(20/10,4600m),C2(23/10,4200m),C3(25/10,5000m),C4(28/10,5900m),xxx(28-30/10,5900m)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Adventure Nepal
routememo:
  High point on NW Ridge.

  C4 established in difficut, dangerous conditions: loose snow. 29th Kennard and others unable to get up on to ridge and bivouacked at 5800m on 30th. Had only 2 days really on mountain, which is very long way from BC. Left BC 5th Nov. 

  Intention to climb South Peak, which had not been scaled. Appeared to be no other route than this NW approach.

  Established BC (4040m) - 18th Oct
  C1 established (4600m) same as Swiss - 20th Oct
  C2    "        (4200m) Changda Khola - 23rd Oct
  C3    "        (5000m) near Swiss pt - 25th Oct

  Steve Powers, Dove Naylor recce to approx 5600m on NW Ridge - 27th Oct.
  C4 established (approx 5900m) by Gombu Sherpa and Tenzi Sherpa - 28th Oct
  NW Ridge of Swiss "Sisne North"
  Biv by Garry Kennard, Steve Powers, Dave Naylor at approx 5800m - 29th Oct
  Steve Powers, Dave Naylor, Gombu Sherpa spend night at C4. Garry Kernard
  descends to C3 - 30th October

  Decision to abandon climb 30th Oct. Climbers descended 31st Oct to C3. Loose and unconsolidated powder snow on loose rock and very low temperatures forced retreat (temperature at C3 midday -10 degrees approx temperature at biv  -20 degrees).


expid: KJER89301
peakid: KJER
year: 1989
route1: N Face-N Ridge-N Summit
nation: France
leaders: Michel Thodoroff
sponsor: Namaste Kanjeralwa 1989
approach: SE->Thapkhola->Phoksundo Lake
bcdate: 1989-09-25
smtdate: 1989-09-30
campsites: BC(25/09,4600m),C1(26/09,5800m),C2(29/09,6100m),N-Smt(30/09,01/10,6215m)
accidents: None
achievment: 3rd & 4th ascent believed, but almost certainly climbed a peak north of highest summit
agency: Mandala Trekking
routememo:
  BC at north of a lake near Phoksumdo Khola
  C1 at high pass at end of valley
  C2 just before a steep slope to summit.

  Kanjeralwa has numerous summits & team not entirely sure they climbed highest one, but believe so. Phoksumdo Khola & big lake towards north end of Kanjeralwa. Had rain/snow everyday but morning five. Route technically easy up snowslope to small ridge; difficult to C1. 

  Nepalis on top: Iman Gurung, Man Bdr Gurung & Dunbar Gurung on 30th Sept; on 1st Oct Man Bdr & Dunbar again; went to north summit, which believe is highest, but possibly a middle summit is 100m higher. Will check photos they took when return to France.


expid: GANG89301
peakid: GANG
year: 1989
route1: N Face-NE Ridge
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Franc Pusnik
sponsor: Slovenian Gangapurna N Face Expedition
ascent1: 12th
approach: Marshyangdi->Manang
bcdate: 1989-09-06
smtdate: 1989-10-01
smttime: 1400
termdate: 1989-10-04
campsites: BC(06/09,5200m),C1(08/09,5500m),C2(24/09,6800m),Smt(01/10)
accidents: None
achievment: 1st Yugoslav ascent in 1st attempt
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC at moraine northwest of mountain
  C1 at moraine
  C2 at North Face.

  Bergschrund at 5900m. Lots of trouble with frequent snowfall and many minor avalanches, would have been dangerous to climb without fixed ropes. Had to go up and down between C1 and C2 often because of this, when snow consolidated and threatened slab avalanche. Also problem to get ropes out from under snow. Fixed 800m of rope at first. Another 300m of rope fixed from bergschrund to C2. 

  1st summit bid by 4 (except Pusnik) when established C2, exhausted and bad weather, so turned back. 

  2nd summit bid 28th Sept from BC. Only 29th Kolar and Misev to C2 in bad weather, improved campsite (1 member returned down on 29th). 30th many avalanches so stayed in C2; 30th night clear but -30 degrees. Started up at 5:00 am on 1st Oct with rope, came to rocks in total darkness but now getting light; 65-degrees to 72-degrees steep ice couloir (ice over broken rock - 400m long) and then longer snow field 60-degrees steep where used rope; arrived at summit 2:00 pm in deeper snow (above knee near top). Descended same route and arrived C2 6:00 pm, tired because of hard work in deep snow. No more summit attempt since summit success and left BC 4th Oct.


expid: GLAC89302
peakid: GLAC
year: 1989
route1: S Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Piotr Henschke
sponsor: Polish Team to Glacier Dome
ascent1: 14th
bcdate: 1989-10-19
smtdate: 1989-10-26
smttime: 0600
campsites: BC(19/10,4400m),Biv1(21/10,5000m),Biv2(22/10,5000m),Biv3(23/10,5200m),Biv4(24/10,6000m),Smt(26/10)
accidents: None
routememo:
  BC near Germans this autumn.

  20th Oct from BC to deposit & see face; much dangerous ice falling so climbed only at night; no fixed camps. 

  1st biv on 21 Oct at German's C1 site (German's left 22 Oct) at 5000m; 
  2nd biv on 22 Oct at 5000m on glacier. 
  3rd biv on 23 Oct at 5200m on glacier.

  Oct 24th, searched for route above; midnight of 24/25th started up; at 8:00-9:00 am reached plateau above serac below pass; 4th biv here at 6000-6100m.
   
  Oct 25/26th midnight left 4th biv, 4:00 am reached pass between Glacier Dome & Fluted Peak; slept 2 hrs at pass (6300m). After reaching top at 6:00 am, descended to tent below pass at 8:00 pm - very dangerous with many seracs; slept 27th at the biv.

  Next problem was descent across icefall which did during night of 27/28th, abseiling all the way; here many new avalanches.

  Team had no climbing permit.


expid: GLAC89301
peakid: GLAC
year: 1989
route1: S Ridge
nation: W Germany
leaders: Adi Welsch
sponsor: Alpine Group Peissenberg to Glacier Dome
bcdate: 1989-10-16
smtdate: 1989-10-18
termdate: 1989-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 5400m due to extreme danger
campsites: BC(16/10,4400m),C1(20/10,5000m),xxx(18-21/10,5400m)
accidents: None
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC at west side of West Annapurna Glacier
  C1 on glacier
  High point on glacier.

  3 times to 5400m and back to C1; couldn't see way 1st 2 times and 3rd time: seracs, icefall and constant snow avalanching. 3 times could see no sure route and too much danger, so abandoned climb. Left BC 22 Oct.

  Intended route lay along east side of N-S Ridge of Tent Peak to W Ridge of Glacier Dome.


expid: ANN289301
peakid: ANN2
year: 1989
route1: W Ridge from N
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Dong-Myung
sponsor: 1989 Yeungnam University Alpine Club Annapurna II & IV Exp
ascent1: 5th unverified
approach: Manang->Pisang
bcdate: 1989-08-21
smtdate: 1989-09-21
smttime: 1730
termnote: Ascent claimed, summiters died in descent
othersmts: Climbed Annapurna IV (ANN4-893-01)
campsites: BC(21/08,3800m),ABC(26/08,5200m),C1(02/09,6300m),C2(06/09,7300m),C3(10/09,7400m),Smt(21/09)
accidents: 2 summiters disappeared (fall?)
achievment: 1st Korean ascents
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  south-southwest of Pisang village
  ABC on glacier SSW of Pisang
  C1  at top of vertical ice field
  C2  200m below East-West ridge of Annapurna II and IV (last camp for Annapurna IV)
  C3  on Annapurna II's West Ridge.

  After C3 made all down to ABC because bad weather (daily snowfall and strong wind). Started up 18th Sept and Annapurna IV reached from C2; Annapurna IV not so difficult; fixed 3000m rope from ABC to C3. On 21st Sept 3 members [Kim, Jeong, Lee] and 2 Sherpas [Lhakpa and Pasang] from C3 at 5:30 am and 2 Sherpas felt danger from avalanche on Pokhara side and from 7500m to top route vertical so all returned to C3 at 7:30 am. 2 Sherpas down to ABC and 1 member [Lee] with headache stayed in C3 while 2 others left C3 at 8:00 am for top and reached top 5:30 pm. At 3:30 pm last walkie-talkie contact (were not seen after 3:00 pm) and Jeong said had stomach problem from altitude but Kim Ok and they would biv 600m below summit. When no contact next day, Chang and 2 Sherpas up from ABC early AM 22nd worried some accident and reached C3 at 11:00 am (no one in C3 now because member with headache had gone down on 21st to C2). Chang saw no sign of summiters and thinks they fell down south (PKR) side of ridge 21st or 22nd Sept. Chang reached ridge before turning back in bad weather (wind and coming snowfall).


  Chong - 8 Feb 1990

  Expedition's printed report says that at 2:00 pm on summit day, the summit party had their last walkie-talkie contact. They said "there is no big difficulty from here to summit. We are now at a rocky area just below summit and we will reach summit immediately. On the way back from the summit, we will make a bivouac for the night." They fell at 5:30 pm while coming down after having reached summit.
   
  Chong talked with leadership after they returned to KTM. Has no idea where the time of 5:30 pm for their fall came from. Climbing leader told Chong summit was just a few minutes from top and he had no doubt they reached summit. He thought they might have fallen on the Pokhara side of mountain since no trace was found of them or the path of their fall on north side. In their last radio contact they said they would contact next from their bivouac but never did come on radio again.

  Chong is Korean mountaineering journalist who runs a lodge in KTM.

  Anna IV summited by Jo Won-Bae, Jeong Joon-Mo and Dawa Sherpa.


expid: ANN189301
peakid: ANN1
year: 1989
route1: N Face
nation: Bulgaria
leaders: Toder Grigorov
sponsor: Bulgarian Annapurna Expedition
ascent1: 22nd
bcdate: 1989-09-20
smtdate: 1989-10-28
smttime: 1130
termdate: 1989-10-30
campsites: BC(20/09,4000m),C1(22/09,5300m),C2(27/09,6000m),C3(19/10,6700m),C4(25/10,7300m),Smt(28/10)
accidents: Several cases of frostbite; avalanche accident on Oct 1; fatal fall by Stoykov Oct 28
achievment: 1st Bulgarian ascent
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site for North Face climb
  C2 350m from start of Dutch Rib (normal site)
  C3 slightly above Dutch Rib.

  Did not attempt NW Face at all because of much unstable snow. Early Oct frequent avalanching (had accident on 1 Oct). 

  2 summit attempts: on 26th Oct by 3 members [Valtchev, Iliev and Natchev] from C4 and reached 8050m, then very cold strong wind began to get frostbite and turned back to C2 (Natchev slightly serious but should heal).

  2nd attempt on 28th Oct by other Ianakiev, Metkov, Stoykov, Panayotov and all except Metkov reached summit; left C4 2:30 am and on top about 11:30 am to noon (moved separately and reached summit separately). Metkov feet getting frostbitten and moved slowly, turned back to warm his feet, again up to 7500m, where he met Stoykov who was coming from summit (Stoykov last to descend, other 2 summiters already in C4). Metkov and Stoykov descended together from 7500m; at about 3:15 pm there was walkie-talkie contact; weather condition changed suddenly with thick clouds and they could not find their way, could see no recognition points; at 16:15 pm with group going from C2 to C3 they said saw many things falling from above them and going down below and 17:00-17:30 pm others in C2 found many personal belongings of Metkov and Stoykov (crampon, boot, clothing, etc.) but no bodies near C2. 29th Oct high camps evacuated. Helicopter for 3 members from BC to KTM because very bad frostbite Ianakiev and Panayotov fingers and toes, Natchev not so bad toes only. 2nd Nov left for Sofia.

  1 Oct avalanche only other accident
  1 member (Natchev) not serious frostbite when above 7800m


expid: HIME89301
peakid: HIME
year: 1989
route1: SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Chung Chai-Hong
sponsor: Keimyung University Alpine Club Himalchuli Expedition 1989
approach: Marshyangdi->Tanje last village
bcdate: 1989-08-29
smtdate: 1989-09-09
termdate: 1989-09-14
termnote: Abandoned at 6250m due to leader's death
campsites: BC(29/08,4950m),C1(03/09,5730m),xxx(09-10/09,6250m)
accidents: Death of leader (from AMS?)
agency: Trans Himalayan Trekking (THT)
routememo:
  C2 never slept in. 2 parties totaling 9 men carried supplies to it's site and pitched tent, but slept in C1. 11th Sept all down to BC to say goodbye to sick leader; mailrunner left BC 11th Sept to summon helicopter to evacuate him. All stayed in BC till his death on 14th. On rainy 15th-16th Lee and 6 Nepalis went up to clear C2 and C1. 

  Leader caught cold one week before arrival at BC; cold got better but developed bad headaches and got sicker and sicker, probably high altitude sickness; was 62 years old.


expid: MANA89301
peakid: MANA
year: 1989
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Carles Gel Rodriguez
sponsor: Catalan Manaslu Expedition
bcdate: 1989-09-05
smtdate: 1989-09-09
termdate: 1989-10-10
termnote: Abandoned at 5600m due to bad weather (rain and snow)
campsites: BC(05/09,4900m),C1(09-10/09,5600m),xxx(5600m)
accidents: None
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  Spaniards went to C1 three times but never above C1. Marin was 1st member to leave BC; he left on 25th Sept & others on 10th Oct.


expid: MANA89302
peakid: MANA
year: 1989
route1: SW Face
nation: UK
leaders: Mark Dixon
sponsor: British Manaslu 1989 Expedition
bcdate: 1989-09-10
smtdate: 1989-10-20
termdate: 1989-10-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to long route, no Sherpas on mtn, etc.
accidents: None
agency: Mountain Travel
campsites:
  BC(10/09,3850m),ABC(20/09,4350m),Biv(04/10,4700m),Biv1(15/10,4850m),Biv2(16/10,5300m),Biv3(17/10,5500m),Biv4(18/10,6400m),xxx(20/10,7000m)

routememo:
  ABC  at Tirolean BC (normal BC site)
  High point at foot of ramp.

  1st biv at 4700m for five nights fixing a rock pillar 4-7 Oct and then down to BC. Also did six carries each from BC to ABC, a distance of 7 miles with same carries; this really tired members considerably. 1st summit bid by Dixon and Parsons with 70-pound loads. Left BC 13th Oct, 14th stashed gear at ABC, 15th to base of pillar at 4850m and bived there. 16th up the pillar to 5300m at its top and bived. 17th into butterfly valley and bived in crevasse on edge of valley at 5500m. 18th up valley to 6400m and bived on glacier. 19th would have been summit day but rested, ready to start for top early on 20th. Left just after midnight and got to about 7000m at 4:00 am, decided moving too slowly to get to top and avoid very high biv without proper equipment and no feeling in toes, so turned back at 7000m and down to ABC same day. 

  Thomas took Sherpas to ABC on 20th. 21st 3 members cleaned pillar. Team felt exhausted with long route and without Sherpa support (BC site where it was because Sherpas demanded higher pay above and budget couldn't stand this cost). Had expected to be team of 10 members but couldn't get sponsorship and was privately funded. Safe route: limited avalanche danger.

  After reached BC, were many days of rain. During final part of climb snow conditions were good and no wind at their altitudes.

  The long, seldom attempted SW Face route (Austrian 1972) exhausted this three-member team with no climbing Sherpas and no fixed camps. The route was safe with "limited avalanche danger."


expid: MANA89303
peakid: MANA
year: 1989
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Masaaki Fukushima
sponsor: Himalayan Dojin Manaslu Expedition
bcdate: 1989-09-13
smtdate: 1989-10-12
termdate: 1989-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 7350m due to fierce winds
campsites: BC(13/09,4900m),C1(16/09,5600m),C2(02/10,6400m),C3(12/10,7350m),xxx(12/10,7350m)
accidents: None
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at snow field at bottom of face
  C3 on snow face of NE Face
  High point at C3.

  Last half Sept much rain & snow. In Oct problem became the wind; also 10th Oct US members & Sherpas hit by avalanche which took them down 150m. Left BC 19th Oct. Had originally planned to go Makalu this winter, but this cancelled.


expid: MANA89304
peakid: MANA
year: 1989
route1: NE Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Maximilian-Horst Fankhauser
sponsor: Tirolean Manaslu Expedition
countries: Switzerland, W Germany
bcdate: 1989-09-19
smtdate: 1989-10-10
termdate: 1989-10-14
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to serious avalanche
campsites: BC(19/09,4500m),C1(22/09,5700m),C2(03/10,6400m),xxx(10/10,7300m)
accidents: Avalanches hit 3 'Sherpas' (Tamangs)
agency: Lamjung
routememo:
  While making route to C3 site on 10th Oct when avalanche carried 3 "Sherpas" (Tamangs actually) 150m down and sirdar buried in snow with foot sticking out and pulled out alive but unconscious by other 2 Sherpas and recovered. All members were in BC resting for ascent soon afterwards. Then leader and others decided too dangerous to continue climbing. 4 members left BC 11th and 12th Oct and Knoll with baggage on 14th. Plan was for "Sherpas" to make C3. Knoll made BC and C1 before other 4 members arrived by helicopter at Samagaon.

  Nima Tamang, Dorje Tamang, Nima Dorje Tamang [= 3 Sherpas]

  Knoll made BC and C1 before other 4 members arrived by helicopter at Samagaon.


  Letter from Oswald Oelz - 20 October 1989

  The base camp was established at 4750m on September 26th. On the 28th of September we established C1 above the Naike Col at an altitude of approx 5600m. Subsequently there was considerable snowfall; however, on the 3rd of October a preliminary C2 was established at an altitude of approx 6300-6400m. All this was much also a work of our 3 excellent high altitude Sherpas. During the next period there was again some considerable snowfall. On the 10th of October while [returning from?] carring equipment to the planed side of C3 the three high altitude Sherpas got into a huge avalanche at an approx altitude of 6600m. This slab started without without any prior warning signs directly on the tracks of the normal route. Miraculously two of the Sherpas were only partly buried and could rescue themselves. Subsequently they found their sirdar who was rapidly digged out and who was already unconscious. With the help of the American Lapkass of the British/American Expedition who had accompanied our Sherpas and had not been avalanched, they could resuscitate him and eventually all four got back to C2. They were no major injuries, but loss of equipment including one set of a walky-talky. On the following day we accompanied our Sherpas down to base camp and abandoned the expedition due to continued danger of avalanches and time pressure.


expid: MANA89305
peakid: MANA
year: 1989
route1: NE Face
nation: USA
leaders: Adrian Burgess
sponsor: Colorado Manaslu Expedition
countries: UK
bcdate: 1989-09-30
smtdate: 1989-10-25
termdate: 1989-11-03
termnote: Abandoned at 7060m due to winds
othersmts: Lakpass scaled a peak of 6790m near Manaslu
campsites: BC(30/10,4300m),C1(03/10,5500m),C2(08/10,6250m),C3(25/10,7060m),xxx(25,28/10,7060m)
accidents: Avalanche carried 3 Austrian 'Sherpas' down 1000 ft (uninjured)
agency: Tawache
routememo:
  BC at low BC
  C1 at Naike Col
  C2 in ice cave at usual site for C2
  C3 300m above and slightly left of North Col
  High point at C3.

  From 8th to 25th kept going up to C2, waited for winds to stop and went down again. 3 Austrian "Sherpas" and Andy Lapkass were up breaking trail to 22,000 ft; Andy down to C2 and Sherpas coming down when slab 1000 ft high and 500 ft wide and 3 ft thick broke away just below N Col at 22,000 ft, a place where wind comes over N Col and leaves snow. Sherpas went down with it and ended up on tip of it unhurt. Lapkass and one of this team's Sherpas went up to rescue them; very, very lucky no one injured and this avalanche shook up Austrians so much they left 2 days later (18th Oct). This team then skirted "deposition area" but now winds had started up. Put 2 tents at C3 and slept one night, but wind so strong no question of making summit bid next day: Both Burgesses, Moores and Lapkass had intended to go to top from this camp and back within a day. Went down and waited for winds to ease. New plan for Burgesses and Lapkass to C2, from C2 overnight to summit (spending night in shaking tent useless) with winds not so strong at night; but at C2 on 2nd Nov winds were fierce. High BC, where Austrians had been, was devastated by huge ice cliff broken off by earthquake 20th Oct. This expedition's depot at this site was translocated and would have been catastrophic if occupied.

  A crevasse below C2 was opening at route of 8 inches/day and was 20 feet wide by end of expedition; another reason abandoned climb because of this danger on edge of couloir that has to be crossed between C1 and C2; ladders have now became necessary for this area.

  The normal NE Face route was a dangerous place to be: a great slab of snow 300m high, 150m wide and one meter thick broke away at about 6700m, a few hundred meters below North Col (in an area that is often avalanched), and carried another team's Sherpas with it; with great luck, no one injured.  About two days later, an earthquake dislodged a huge ice cliff which devastated the area around high base camp and would have killed anyone in it (no one was there at the time).  A crevasse below camp 2 at about 6000m kept opening at the rate of about 20 centimeters per day, was 6 meters wide when this team abandoned their climb chiefly because of fierce winds.


expid: LHOT89302
peakid: LHOT
year: 1989
route1: W Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Heo Young-Ho
sponsor: Heo Young-Ho Family Expedition to Lhotse
ascent1: 20th
bcdate: 1989-09-20
smtdate: 1989-10-14
smttime: 0400
campsites: BC(20/09,5400m),C1(02/10,6500m),C2(03/10,7300m),C3(04/10,7800m),Smt(14/10)
accidents: None
achievment: Heo is 1st Korean to climb four 8000ers
agency: Machhapuchare
routememo:
  C1 in Western Cwm (used Korean Pillar Everest tent)
  C2 on Lhotse West Face (used Japanese Everest tent)
  C3 on Lhotse West Face.

  Much snowfall at first after BC arrival. After making C1 to C3, down to Cwm on 5th Oct and 6th Oct to BC for rest. 12th Oct BC to Cwm, 13th Oct to 7300m. 13th Oct 8 pm up from 7300m with one O2 bottle and direct to summit in full moonlight; started using O2 at 7600m (above rock band) and on 14th 4:00 am on summit; not so cold and wind not strong. 14th down to 6500m at 1 pm (at 7300m 8:00 am). At summit time eyesight blurred in left eye; used O2 to 7500m. Did not use camp at 7800m, which was partly covered with snow. On 14th at 6-6:30 am met Japanese descending from Everest summit and descended with them to Cwm. 

  One Sherpa went with Heo from Cwm on 3rd Oct to establish Heo's camp at 7800m, but not with Heo on 12-14th Oct.


expid: LHOT89301
peakid: LHOT
year: 1989
route1: S Face
nation: Poland
leaders: Jerzy Kukuczka
sponsor: Lhotse S Face Expedition
countries: France, Italy, Switzerland
bcdate: 1989-09-06
smtdate: 1989-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 8350m due to fatal fall of Kukuczka
accidents: Kukuzcka fatal fall; Warecki had bad parapente landing
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(06/09,5200m),C1(13/09,5600m),C2(16/09,6200m),C3(28/09,6800m),C4(05/10,7100m),C5(08/10,7400m),C6(21/10,7800m),Biv1(22/10,7900m),Biv2(23/10,8300m),xxx(24/10,8350m)

routememo:
  C4 then 2 bivouacs at 7900m and 8300m
  High point on South Face.

  1st 200m on wall by Czech route safer from avalanches on this snow section; rest of route was Polish route. Between C3 and C4 very difficult and more dangerous than in 1985 with seracs more unstable: warmer and more snowfall in "terrible" Sept. Camps in about same places and in 1985 with C4 and C5 exactly same places. Total 4200m from base of wall at 5300m to 7800m not in climbing traverse from 7800m to 7900m where had 1st biv. Kukuczka's fall perhaps due to his hand reaching beginning of snow and it slipped; don't really know cause. 

  On South Face of Lhotse "enough Polish people have died" so Pawlowski may not return to it. It can be climbed. Pawlowski and Kukuzcka had very good chance of success: Kukuzcka was sure that they would reach summit about noon. They both strong men had slept well, weather clear, no wind and temperature not bad in sunshine in day time and both well acclimatized.

  Warecki: "We have not good luck on this wall - better to say good-bye." Also low "stock" of top climbers, only few left in Poland.


  Information to be reported to the Ministry of Tourism after the completion of Expedition:

  We started from KTM to Lukla on 30th Aug. We reached at BC on 6th Sept and at the same day we established BC on 5200m. We started climbing on 10th Sept and established C1 on 13th Sept at the height of 5600m and 2nd Camp on 16th Sept at the height of 6200m and 3rd camp on 28th Sept at the height of 6800m and Camp 4th on 5th Oct at the height of 7100m and C5 on 8th Oct at the height of 7800m and C6 established by Jerzy Kukuczka (leader) and Ryszard Pawlowski on 21 Oct at the height of 7800m and on 22nd Oct they established the first biv at the height of 7900m and slept there and on 23rd Oct they reached at the height of 8300m and established the next biv and slept there.

  On 24th Oct they planned to got to summit and at the same day at 8:30 o'clock early in the morning they started their climbing from 8300m to summit. Kukuczka was climbing and he ascended approx 70m from the last biv. After a few minutes he fell down slightly at 9:00 o'clock from 8350m. After that he was falling down quickly as the rope had been broken near the last biv and he fell down badly one hundred and forty meters and he was dead. At that time the next member Pawlowski was near the last biv, when leader was falling down. Pawlowski was just behind of it when the rope was broken before him and he got protected.

  So, after that Pawlowski never went up and abandoned his climbing and at the same time he started coming down and at that time he came down and slept at 7900m and on 25th Oct at 11:15 am he arrived at C5, where other two members [Kopys and Pawlikowski] were living at that camp for their rescue. He arrived at C5 and informed to BC about all the accident. So, at the same day at 4:00 pm. I informed about the accident in details to Ministry of Tourism. All three members camp to C4 and slept at that day. The next day they arrived at BC. Other members in BC at 10:00 o'clock morning on 26th Oct, went to the glaciers to search the dead body and after sometime they found the dead body of leader in a crevasse at the height of 5400m. They could tell from his clothing that it was the dead body of a leader. They left it there in the crevasse. On the next day on 27th Oct. All members and staffs of BC left the BC and started their return back to KTM and arrived at KTM on 31st Oct 1989.


expid: LSHR89301
peakid: LSHR
year: 1989
route1: SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Han Gwang-Geol
sponsor: 1989 Korean Lhotse Shar Expedition
ascent1: 7th
bcdate: 1989-08-21
smtdate: 1989-10-04
smttime: 1500
accidents: Rinji fell 100m after hit by avalanche on Sep 25 but after an hour's rest was OK
achievment: 1st Korean ascent
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(21/08,5200m),C1(04/09,5700m),C2(09/09,6100m),C3(17/09,7000m),C4(24/09,7700m),C5(03/10,8100m),Smt(04/10)

routememo:
  C1 sited slightly different from plan to avoid soft deep snow and get onto rock. Route above C2 not changed from plan. Weather very bad: much snow and strong wind. Summiters started 6:30 am and on top 3:00 pm, very tired in wind blowing snow and fog (could see 3m only); on top 5-6 min only, could not stand in wind) back to C4 6:15 pm same day. Left on top a snowbar with carabinier and flag of mountain school. Had reached on East Peak at 12:30 pm also in bad weather and poor visibility and little tired, but after 10-15 mins weather better and decision taken by leader and team they should proceed to top. 

  Route not difficult. Total 4575m rope fixed C1 to E Peak almost entire route (E Peak about 600m from C5). Many avalanches but very lucky and no one hurt (Rinji making route to C5 hit and fell 100m but after on hour's rest was Ok).

  Oxygen was taken for expedition, but difficulties with it prevented its use.


expid: PUMO89303
peakid: PUMO
year: 1989
route1: SE Face/Ridge
nation: W Germany
leaders: Sigi Hupfauer
sponsor: Hupfauer Pumori Expedition
ascent1: 44th
bcdate: 1989-10-01
smtdate: 1989-10-12
smttime: 1400
campsites: BC(01/10,5350m),C1(10/10,6200m),Smt(12/10)
accidents: None
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  Made steps at about 1-1/2 hour above Gorak Shep at south end of large lake
  C1 at behind summit of small ridge.

  Made steps in very deep snow and after this, other expeditions used Hupfauer's steps made at 6200m on 3rd Oct and down to BC (saw at 6200m empty tent of Spaniards; did not know about their fatal avalanche). Rested at BC 4th and then went with surviving Spaniard to bodies of 4 dead, 5th brought them to glacier in next days with DAV members and buried in grave. After this not too keen to climb, but started up on 8th and fixed C1 and down again 10th slept in C1 and 11th thought could go to top, moved slowly up in deep snow and on to 6850m but now in cloud with no visibility. Down to C1. On 12th snow harder and slightly easier to move and on up despite clouds. Started at 6 am and on top at 2 pm in clear visibility for last 60m and at 5 pm back at C1.


expid: PUMO89307
peakid: PUMO
year: 1989
route1: SE Face/Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Jan Neuspiel
sponsor: Canadian Pumori Expedition
ascent1: 48th
countries: Australia, Ireland, UK
bcdate: 1989-10-17
smtdate: 1989-10-19
smttime: 1240
campsites: BC(17/10,5300m),C1(18/10,6200m),Smt(19/10)
accidents: Sterritt intestinal illness
agency: Atlas
routememo:
  BC at south end of large lake
  C1 at same site as others this autumn.

  Neuspiel and Sterritt on 18th went up towards C1 site. Sterritt got very ill on the way but continued to C1. Next morning Sterritt unable to descend alone or go up so Neuspiel went alone to summit. Left C1 6:40 am and on top exactly 6 hrs later and down to C1, fell into crevasse on the way and in C1 1:30 pm. Both to BC that afternoon/evening. 

  Todd never reached BC. Thompson arrived at BC on 19th Oct with no one to climb with, unwilling to solo so never went above BC. All fixed ropes had been cleared the day before Neuspiel arrived at BC.


expid: PUMO89306
peakid: PUMO
year: 1989
route1: SE Face/Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Randal Harrington
sponsor: American Pumori Expedition
ascent1: 47th w/Ger
countries: UK
bcdate: 1989-10-09
smtdate: 1989-10-16
campsites: BC(09/10,5300m),C1(13/10,6200m),Smt(16/10)
accidents: None except Springer illness
agency: Sherpa Society
routememo:
  BC at south end, next to others
  C1 at Germans's C2.

  Arrived BC 9th Oct, but too many people on mountain and went to climb Lobuche to acclimatize (too dangerous snow) and returned to BC 11th Oct. 12th rested and 13th Harrington, Kaplan and MacKay to C1 while Springer stayed below C1 that day but arrived in camp 3:30 am of 14th. 14th Kaplan and Springer made summit bid and got 200m below top, where Springer felt unwell and they descended to BC. Three members then to top on 16th together.


expid: PUMO89305
peakid: PUMO
year: 1989
route1: SE Face/Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Francois Duthil
sponsor: French Expedition to Pumori
ascent1: 45th & 46th w/Ger
bcdate: 1989-10-03
smtdate: 1989-10-13
campsites: BC(03/10,5300m),C1(12/10,6200m),Smt(13,15/10)
accidents: None
agency: Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
routememo:
  BC at next to Germans
  C1 at next to Germans.

  Bertrand, Roy and Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa reached the summit on Oct 13 with members of the German (DAV led by Holzer) expedition.

  The Base Camp and C1 was pitched next to Germans' camps.


expid: PUMO89308
peakid: PUMO
year: 1989
route1: SE Face/Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Michel Richard
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 1989-10-24
smtdate: 1989-11-01
termdate: 1989-11-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to lack of time and member illnesses
campsites: BC(24/10,5250m),C1(27/10,6250m),xxx(01-02/11,6400m)
accidents: None except stomach problems
agency: Sherpa Society
routememo:
  BC near lake (normal site)
  C1 on SE Face
  High point on face.

  Had good weather, cold but fine but members and Sherpas sick. Fixed 600m rope to C1. 2 summit bids from C1: 1 Nov by Morris and Mehard and 2nd Nov by Richard with Tsharkey Sherpa and down on 2nd because Sherpa sick and weather cold - on 1st also not well. Then no time. Sickness was stomach. Left BC 5 Nov. Route difficult.


expid: PUMO89302
peakid: PUMO
year: 1989
route1: SE Face/Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Francisco (Paco) Salgado Rivera
sponsor: Spanish Pumori Expedition
bcdate: 1989-09-16
smtdate: 1989-10-03
termdate: 1989-10-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to avalanche which killed 4 members
campsites: BC(16/09,5315m),C1(22/09,5760m),C2(02/10,6200m),xxx(03/10,6400m)
agency: Trans Himalayan Trekking (THT)
routememo:
  BC at southeast end of large lake due east of Kalapattar
  C1 at bottom of ridge just northwest of Pt 5385m on NGS map
  C2 at top of ridge ridge leads to SE Face
  High point on SE Face.

  2nd Oct 5 remaining members make C2. Snow very bad: knee deep soft snow after morning softens it: some days took 1 hr-20 mins to progress 25m. Many days snow falling. Arrived C2 2nd Oct morning 10:30. 3rd Oct 2 am 4 members go on up. Garcia stayed in C2 with stomach ailment. 4 planned to make summit and return to C2 same day. 3:30-4 am Garcia heard fatal avalanche near tent. 6 am Garcia down from C2 to BC noon same day. 4th Oct Garcia tried to go again to C2 but turned back by deep snow.


expid: PUMO89301
peakid: PUMO
year: 1989
route1: SE Face/Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Marino Giacometti
sponsor: Everest-K2-C.N.R. 1989 to Pumori
ascent1: 43rd
countries: Austria
bcdate: 1989-08-31
smtdate: 1989-09-18
smttime: 0930
campsites: BC(31/08,4930m),ABC(03/09,5300m),Dep(10/09,5750m),Smt(18/09)
accidents: None
agency: Trekking International
routememo:
  BC above (1 hour) Gorak Shep near lake
  Deposit C1 on rock ridge above lake (where snow began).

  1st summit push 16th Sept by Giacometti and Santin. Reached 6400m and turned back because of bad snow conditions underfoot and was snowing. 

  18th Sept 2nd summit push: Giacometti started from ABC at midnight of 17/18th, reached depot at 1:15 am and left here with them 2:10 am used no fixed rope but were roped together, climbed continuously, slowly to summit, while reached at 9:30 am. "Some tired" at top where stayed about 30 mins. Clouds coming quite foggy and warm with avalanche problem so descended quickly. Reached depot camp at 13:15 hrs. Giacometti stopped 15 mins and was in ABC at 14 hrs. Other 2 down to ABC later after clearing some of depot's gear.

  Giacometti's 14-hr round trip beats Batard's 17 hrs in 1988.


expid: PUMO89304
peakid: PUMO
year: 1989
route1: SE Face/Ridge
nation: W Germany
leaders: Josef Holzer
sponsor: DAV Summit Club Pumori 1989
ascent1: 45th-47th
countries: Austria, Italy, Netherlands, Switzerland
bcdate: 1989-10-01
smtdate: 1989-10-13
termdate: 1989-10-18
campsites: BC(01/10,5350m),C1(03/10,5700m),C2(09/10,6200m),Smt(13,15-16/10)
accidents: 2 with altitude problems
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC near big lakes
  C2 same as Spaniards and Hupfauer's camp site.

  13th summiters were Bosshard, Pauer, Riches, Gimbel, Gruber, Buntrock and Doerrich members in Hupfauer's steps more or less; wind had blown away some of their steps; they down to BC on 14th (had slept in C2). 

  15th Oct summiters Baier, Haas, Heisler and Pemba Tharke Sherpa. 

  16th Oct summiters Wildensinn, Haas and Ang Dawa Sherpa.

  Left BC 18th Oct.

  Holzer helped Sigi Hupfauer to bury 4 dead Spaniards, who came down in avalanche more than 1000m over rock and ice; bodies were badly smashed and dismembered; were hit by serac falling down couloir.


expid: AMAD89301
peakid: AMAD
year: 1989
route1: N Face
route2: N Ridge
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Bojan Pockar
sponsor: Ama Dablam NW Face Expedition
bcdate: 1989-10-12
smtdate: 1989-10-28
termdate: 1989-10-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6030m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(12/10,4700m),Biv(28/10,6030m),xxx(28/10,6030m)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC at 4700m at Duwo Glacier
  High point on N Ridge.

  No camps above BC. 2 climbing members together climbed in alpine-style after acclimatization around area (Island peak area, Kalapattar). Started up on 28th Oct for planned series of bivouacs. 28th Oct 6030m from 4900m, start of face. Tried to climb N Face direct but snow conditions very bad so went to via N Couloir to NW Ridge. Impossible to go higher because very soft snow on very steep rock. New route in couloir to ridge. 450m of new route, lower part Yugoslavs same route as Japanese Aut 1980. Steepness up to 85 degrees; no rope fixed; from bottom of face to ridge climbed in 17 hours.


expid: AMAD89303
peakid: AMAD
year: 1989
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Gary Ruggera
sponsor: American Ama Dablam 1989
ascent1: 69th
bcdate: 1989-10-20
smtdate: 1989-10-26
termdate: 1989-10-28
campsites: BC(20/10,5000m),C1(23/10,5950m),Smt(26/10)
accidents: None
agency: Above the Clouds
routememo:
  BC above Mingbo (normal site)
  C1 at normal C2.

  Waited for Germans to evacuate their C2 before Americans finished establishing camp because not enough room for everybody. 23rd and 24th spent making camp and ferrying loads. 25th rested at the camp and 26th all 4 men went to summit in perfect weather: no clouds at all but some wind (gusts up to 60 kph). Took 2 men 6 hrs and others 7 hrs. Climbed most of distance unroped; used German's fixed ropes left for French to use in rapelling down. Nowack and McCormick returned from summit in 3-1/2 hours and others got caught in dark and much slower descent (had headlamps) and reached camp at 8:00 pm (Nowak and McCormick at 4:00 pm in camp). 27th cleaned up camp and down to BC in afternoon and left BC 28th with French expedition's arriving yaks.


expid: AMAD89302
peakid: AMAD
year: 1989
route1: SW Ridge
nation: W Germany
leaders: Guenther Haerter
sponsor: DAV Summit Club Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 67th,68th
countries: Austria, Italy
bcdate: 1989-10-13
smtdate: 1989-10-22
campsites: BC(13/10,5000m),C1(14/10,5800m),C2(18/10,6100m),Smt(22,24/10)
accidents: None
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC above Mingbo at start of SW Ridge.

  Last 5000m not fixed with rope despite deep snow in slope of up to 50 degrees steepness. Climb entirely straightforward and without incident. Fixed 2000m on this long for safety and placed camps at usual sites.


expid: CHOY89303
peakid: CHOY
year: 1989
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: Spain
leaders: Magda King Nos Loppe
sponsor: First Spanish Women's Expedition to 8000m - to Cho Oyu
ascent1: 65th
approach: KTM->Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1989-08-26
smtdate: 1989-09-19
smttime: 1045
accidents: None
agency: Kunga
campsites:
  ChineseBC(21/08,4300m),ABC1(26/08,5400m),ABC2(30/08,5900m),C1(05/09,6600m),C2(13/09,7200m),C3(18/09,7700m),Smt(19/09)

routememo:
  Snow was very soft & Koreans had a route slightly different from Tichy route so Spaniards followed Korean's route. C1 was Tichy route but on same side of mountain. This route is not recommended - too many avalanches. It is better to stay on Tichy route. One avalanche hit C2 (avalanche which Italian lady rode down 800m) but no one hurt.


expid: CHOY89304
peakid: CHOY
year: 1989
route1: N Rige (to 6100m)
route2: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: Italy
leaders: Enrico Rosso
sponsor: Italians to Cho Oyu and Everest
ascent2: 64th w/Swz
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1989-09-01
smtdate: 1989-09-18
campsites: ABC(01/09,5400m),C1(05/09,5950m),C2(10/09,6670m),C3(17/09,7540m),Smt(18/09)
accidents: Only Bertoglio failure to adapt to altitude
agency: Trekking International
routememo:
  In August attempted N Ridge. 2 men put a tent at 6100m under N Ridge but turned back; then Bertoglio became sick and they moved on to normal route, on which Bertoglio went to C2 and Rosso to summit. 

  Bertoglio is well-known runner who runs up an Alp's more than 3000m in 2 hrs, but he is used to careful regimen and excellent diet, but did not adapt to Himalaya expedition's food and altitude. Were supposed to be at Everest BC by Sept, so were not permitted to go Everest following Cho Oyu ascent.


expid: CHOY89302
peakid: CHOY
year: 1989
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: Italy
leaders: Alberto Bianchi
sponsor: Italian Expedition to Cho Oyu from Tibet
ascent1: 63rd
countries: Luxembourg
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1989-08-21
smtdate: 1989-09-17
accidents: None except avalanche
achievment: 1st Luxembourger to summit
agency: Trekking International
campsites:
  ChineseBC(21/08),ABC(27/08,5400m),C1(31/08,5950m),C2(03/09,6670m),C3(13/09,7100m),C4(14/09,7540m),Smt(17/09)

routememo:
  2-13 Sept much snow; made deposit at 7000m in this period. 15 Sept avalanche hit at 7900m Valentina and Thirtha Tamang but not injured; carried by it 800m. Mountain was loaded with snow and were very lucky Valentina and Thirtha Tamang not hurt. Summiters lucky that avalanche took away much dangerous loose snow; was much snow.

  Avalanche that carried Valentina Lauthier 800m deposited her beside a tent and she crawled into it; other members started probing for her when someone looked in the tent and found her there.


expid: CHOY89301
peakid: CHOY
year: 1989
route1: W Face-W Ridge from S
nation: S Korea
leaders: Park Sang-Yul
sponsor: 1989 Korean Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 62nd
approach: Jiri->Nangpa La
bcdate: 1989-08-17
smtdate: 1989-09-02
smttime: 1630
accidents: Slight frostbite to summiters; one Sherpa unhurt in fall onto crevasse
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(17/08,5200m),C1(5950m),C2(22/08,6300m),C3(29/08,6700m),C4(30/08,7500m),Biv(01/09,8100m),Smt(02/09)

routememo:
  Eberhard Jurgalski - October 2005

  Mr. Yang of the Korean Alpine Federation reported to Jurgalski that Hong and Lee told him [Yang] that they did not summit.


  Initial Report (later changed, see below):

  Went up mountain via Messner route, i.e., did not cross Nangpa La (Mingma Norbu of Karikhola was on this expedition and also Messner's in 1983) and like Messner descended normal route which meant crossing Nangpa La from north side. All members and Sherpas followed same route; some Sherpas met people from this expedition on normal route from Tibet: this Korean expedition's C3 was next to USA and Italian C2; it was at C3 that Koreans joined normal route. All the way to C3 route was on glacier without snow; at C4 was deep snow. 

  Wangel knows Messner route from Mingma Norbu, who was on this climb and also with Messner.

  5 Sept 2 members and 1 Sherpa high porter from C4 and biv at 8050m at foot of couloir in only biv sack, 1 piece of chocolate, no food or fuel. Some stonefall and ice particles coming down couloir, broke Hong's goggles and slightly pains, very faint but leader ordered them to summit and on they went to summit. Left biv 6:00 am 6th and on top after 8:40 minutes climb. Oxygen supplies arrived late at BC while climbers already high and weather very good. 8 Sept weather turned bad with wind and sometimes snow. 6 Sept summiters sleep C3 with other members and Sherpas (no people or provisions in C4) - and "almost dire" with weakness and hunger: next day C1. No more attempts for summit. Difficulties between C1 and C2 where crevasses need fixed rope (740m); C2 and C3 same stone and icefall. Used snow route all the way; no fixed rope in couloir.

  At 1:45 summiter Hong, thought he was at summit but when cloud disappeared realized not highest point and went onto to true summit in clear weather.

  First campsite list:
    BC1(4900m),BC2(5000m),C1(01/09,5600m),C2(02/09,6500m),C3(03/09,7000m),
    C4(04/09,7700m),Biv(05/09,7900m),Smt(06/09)

  Another campsite list:
    BC(19/08,5300m),ABC(31/08,6000m),C1(01/09,6600m),C2(02/09,7200m),
    C3(03/09,7500m),C4(04/09,7860m),Biv(05/09,8050m),Smt(06/09)


  Cho Oyu Expedition, Korean Autumn 1989 - by Kwak Gyu-Youl

  The expedition member was ten persons led by Park Sang-Yul. They started for Kathmandu on July 22. Starting up caravan at Jiri on August 2. BC was established at 5200m on August 17. 

  C1 was established at 5950m under the Nangpa La. They ascended the so-called traditional SW Ridge from Nepal, which is in actual the NW Ridge. C2, C3 and C4 were established at 6300m, 6700m and 7500m on Aug 22, 29 and 30. 

  On Aug 31, Dong-Yon Lee, Gyong-Pyo Hong, Sirdar Wangel started for the summit at 3 am, but descended on the first rock band at 1:50 pm. They arrived at C4 at 6:20 pm.

  On September 1, they started at 7:15 am and established a tent at 8100m which is the highest point arrived the day before. They started at 6:50 am on Sept 2. After 6 hours they arrived at the second rock band with abundant snows.

  They have mistaken the summit for heavy fog at 3:23 pm. But when the fog lifted, they found the true higher summit. Since that time about one hour they reached the summit.


  Chong - 5 Oct 89
  Villa Everest prop.

  Korean Cho Oyu team "confessed" to Chong just before they left KTM (and his lodge) that they had climbed the normal route, not SW Ridge as claimed at first. Had intended all along to climb Tichy route. They began climbing on 20 Aug and reached summit 2 Sept.


  Magda King Nos Loppe & Ang Phuri - 1 Oct 1989

  Met Koreans at Spanish ABC 30 Aug. They made summit 2 days later 1 Sept. Spanish had already been in on above Nepal BC 15 days.

  Koreans C3 = Spanish C1, just below icefall. Next camp was where Italian woman landed after riding an avalanche 800m. Went up straight up instead of making a left traverse above C2, as Tichy route would have taken them. Sherpa is sure Koreans did not ascend via Messner, did not meet Koreans after their summit day so did not talk with them after it, but are sure Koreans were not at all on the route they claim to have been on. 

  "They cannot substantiate their claim with picture because their pictures will show the wrong place" - King


  Zeglen & Bianchi - 25 Sept 1989

  Koreans were on normal route and crossed Nangpa La in both directions. Could not have followed route they claimed because very difficult and very dangerous avalanching there. Italians saw no track via Messner approach. They left Cho Oyu across Nangpa La. No Chinese beyond Northern BC = Chinese BC, well away from mountain.

  Saw their track very nice track up mountain via Tichy route Koreans on summit 3 Sept - 1st met some at Bianchi's.


  Sigi Hupfauer - 20 Sept 1989

  Does not believe Koreans could climb new route they claims so quickly especially on such steep face, and altitudes given for camps don't correspond with sketch over Schneider's contours.

  Agrees not at all likely Koreans using their tactics of fixed camps and rope made climb of route they claim.


  Oswald Oelz - 21 Sept 1989

  He agrees not at all likely Koreans, using their tactics of fixed camps and ropes, they climbed the route of their claim.


expid: DORJ89301
peakid: DORJ
year: 1989
route1: W Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Ezio Goggi
sponsor: ADC 1989 Dorje Lhakpa
bcdate: 1989-10-05
smtdate: 1989-10-10
termdate: 1989-10-11
termnote: Abandoned at 5610m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(05/10,4350m),C1(08/10,5300m),xxx(10/10,5610m)
accidents: None
agency: Ascent
routememo:
  BC at 600m above normal site, moraine of Linshing Glacier
  C1 just below West Ridge
  High point on West Ridge.

  9th Oct 2 men went up but found bad snow, snow deep (above knees) and storm coming. They went down to BC 11th Oct. 2 others went up but some problems; too dangerous to force route higher.

  Return to Kathmandu to south along W Ridge western extension, all above 4000m. First time foreigners went by this difficult way constantly up and down (water problem), which took longer than normal route followed on approach.


expid: GAN489301
peakid: GAN4
year: 1989
route1: SSW Spur on S Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Faustino Garcia Fraile
sponsor: Avila to Summit Himalaya 1989 to Ganesh IV
approach: Setung->Huidung->5 days from Huidung through thick jungle
bcdate: 1989-09-11
smtdate: 1989-10-06
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to dangerous snow conditions
campsites: BC(11/09,4500m),ABC(14/09,5000m),C1(03/10,5600m),xxx(06/10,6100m)
accidents: None
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  BC  near glacier
  ABC on glacier
  C1  at beginning of South Face
  High point at SSW Spur.

  Everyday snow and rain. Fixed 600m rope above C1 from C2 tried twice to climb spur on face via French route from C2 but very dangerous with almost daily avalanching. Highest point reached during night of 5/6 Oct. Started from C2 at midnight and at 5:00 am turned back because snow too dangerous.


expid: LANG89301
peakid: LANG
year: 1989
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Andrew Creigh
sponsor: 1989 British Langtang Expedition to Langtang Lirung
ascent1: 12th
countries: Ireland
bcdate: 1989-09-15
smtdate: 1989-11-12
campsites: BC(15/09,4100m),C1(24/09,4800m),C2(09/10,5550m),C3(26/10,6100m),C4(11/11,6450m),Smt(12/11)
accidents: None
achievment: 1st Irishman to summit
agency: Yangrima
routememo:
  BC at normal site for lower BC
  C2 on SE Ridge where route gets onto ridge
  C4 at Swiss snowhole.

  Neither this or the Swiss Langtang expedition would have succeeded without the other: British put in lots of fixed rope at first, Swiss came along and put in more high up which British too tired to do. C2 to C3 the crux of climb: rocky ridge requiring fixing rope. Had several long periods of very unsettled weather. Declan MacMahon went up one day ahead of Rees-Jones and Howard; Rees-Jones and Howard turned back an hour or so from summit because of strong wind. Very safe route from objective danger. Climb was more difficult than expected from looking at photos. 

  Only 3 left at end because they were the only ones who could stay away from home so long.


expid: LANG89302
peakid: LANG
year: 1989
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Hans Berger
sponsor: First Swiss Langtang Expedition
ascent1: 10th,11th
countries: W Germany
bcdate: 1989-10-26
smtdate: 1989-11-10
termdate: 1989-11-13
campsites: BC(26/10,4250m),C1(28/10,5650m),C2(06/11,6450m),Smt(10-11/11)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Chomalhari Trekking
routememo:
  BC at left side of Lirung Glacier
  C1 on SE Ridge.

  Ridge is very difficult. British had arrived first and fixed ropes; were very cooperative. Snow conditions no problem: mostly snowed on lower part of mountain. Swiss left BC 13th Nov. 

  C1->C2 fixed 600m rope by British. Would have taken Swiss much more time if British not so very cooperative. Swiss put in 300m above C2 & 700m in gully below C1. "British people were very, very nice."


expid: BARU89301
peakid: BARU
year: 1989
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Jacques Grandjean
sponsor: Alpirama Baruntse Expedition
ascent1: 21st
bcdate: 1989-10-14
smtdate: 1989-10-23
smttime: 1500
termdate: 1989-10-31
campsites: BC(14/10,5100m),C1(19/10,5900m),C2(22/10,6400m),Smt(23/10)
accidents: Nothing serious except Grandjean developed blood pressure problem at 6600m
agency: Nepal Tashi Taki Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Barun Glacier's south side, SSW of point 5750m on Schneider map
  C2 between points 6730m and 6480m.

  23 Oct, 8 members (all except Passelo) left C2 at 7 am and went to pass before ridge at 6600m. Here Grandjean down sick; Siegenthalar to top; Frossard to 7000m with Siegenthaler and stopped when ridge became difficult and snow conditions dangerous. Bugnard, Chavannaz, Pollet, Ruffieux G. and Ruffieux M. reached pass late and stayed at pass to watch Siegenthaler, when he got to summit at 3 pm. Then all but Chavannaz descended as they saw Siegenthaler coming down ridge while Chavannaz waited for Siegenthaler. All to C2 night of 23 Oct. Left BC 31 Oct.


expid: JANU89301
peakid: JANU
year: 1989
route1: SW Face-S Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Hooman Aprin
sponsor: Him-Kooh American Jannu Expedition 1989
bcdate: 1989-09-27
smtdate: 1989-10-27
termdate: 1989-10-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7050m due to strong winds
accidents: None
agency: Himalayan Journeys
campsites:
  BC(27/09,4475m),C1(01/10,5170m),C2(05/10,5630m),C3(15/10,5940m),Biv1(21/10,6140m),Biv2(26/10,6400m),Biv3(27/10,7050m),xxx(27/10,7050m)

routememo:
  BC at Yamotari Glacier
  C1 at left edge of another glacier
  C2 above icefall below 2 towers
  C3 right below 1st tower on a subsidiary ridge to S Ridge.

  2 towers are difficult to get to mountain; between C2 and C3 another most difficult section and fixed ropes here. Total 1800 ft fixed, 1500 of it between C2 and C3. Getting around 2 towers continuously technical climbing. Had temporary camps above C3, moving tents upward. 21 Oct at 6140m. Weather was perfect in these days until we reached 7050m at top of summit wall, just one day below summit, where winds started up. Stayed 2 nights but wind continued without stop and even got worse. Went down on 29th because of wind, low supplies and time running out. Had excellent snow conditions.

  Next time will fix the wall and in bad weather go down quickly.


expid: KANG89301
peakid: KANG
year: 1989
route1: N Face
nation: France
leaders: Eric Monier
sponsor: Kangchenjunga 1989
bcdate: 1989-10-15
smtdate: 1989-10-24
termdate: 1989-11-07
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to winds
campsites: BC(15/10,5050m),C1(18/10,6000m),C2(23/10,6800m),xxx(24/10,7100m)
accidents: None
agency: Sherpa Trekking Service (STS)
routememo:
  BC at Pangpema
  C1 below first snowfall
  C2 at second snowfield (same as Japanese 1980 C2)
  High point at North Face.

  24th Oct Monier attacked main difficulty of route between 7000 and 7200m; reached 7100m and fixed 50m rope in his descent. Down to BC. Waited there till 20 Oct, when went to C1, 30th to C2; 30 cm snowfall during night of 30/31 (this his only 2nd summit bid). Waited for snow to stabilize, then 3rd broke tent, which he had planned to take up mountain again down to BC to wait for wind to abate. But wind did not drop high up and on 7th decided to give up. Should have arrived earlier at BC. 

  This his first autumn season in Nepal, Had planned to climb alpine-style from C2 taking this tent with him. None of other team members went above BC.


expid: MAKA89306
peakid: MAKA
year: 1989
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Joe Frank
sponsor: 1989 American Makalu Expedition
bcdate: 1989-09-17
smtdate: 1989-10-13
termdate: 1989-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to wind and fatigue
campsites: BC(17/09,5400m),C1(24/09,6200m),xxx(13/10,8100m)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Sagarmatha
routememo:
  BC at high BC site at glacier's junction
  C1 at 6200m at Chago Glacier
  High point on North Face.

  Went to 7000m about 27th but down and back again by Frank and Jackson, bived there and down next day in snowstorm. Austiguy and Thorburn reached Makalu La on 4th where bived on windy night in exposed place and down next day. Frank and Jackson on 6th up to 7000m for summit bid but wind drove down next day. 

  Johnson and Collister of British team to C3 on 11th or 12th; they got to 7600m and Collister reached 7000m and down to 20th because of wind and slight illness. Now porters coming and climbers tired.

  Johnson and Collister went together to 7500m, where Catalans had their C3, on 14 Oct afternoon. 3 Catalans and their Sherpa went up to C3 same time. On 15th Johnson left C3 at 2:30 am, Catalans left at 3:00 am (they had talked of climbing together). Johnson followed North Ridge to 8100m, part way up the Kukuczka step - step was developing slab rock with bad snow on it. He tried 3 ways to get up it but snow was not safe any way he tried: "I had a gut feeling I was in a bad place" and turned back at 7:30-8:00 am. He was alone as Catalans and he had taken different lines above C3 and 30 minutes before he turned back one of Catalans fell into a crevasse and that discouraged them in knee-deep snow and they turned back at about 7900m. Collister got out of tent later in morning because his feeet were cold, followed Catalans, met them at 7700m and they told him of snow problems.


expid: MAKA89303
peakid: MAKA
year: 1989
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Ana Sese Lanau
sponsor: Aragon Expedition to Makalu
bcdate: 1989-09-03
smtdate: 1989-09-28
termdate: 1989-10-27
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to windslab avalanche danger
campsites: BC(03/09,5400m),C1(07/09,6200m),C2(15/09,7000m),C3(21/09,7600m),xxx(28/09,8000m)
accidents: None to Oct 10 when Valles left BC
agency: Amtrek
routememo:
  BC at high BC 
  C1 at Chago Glacier
  C2 below Makalu La
  C3 above Makalu La on North Face
  High point on North Face.

  Main problem was wind from east dumping snow over S Face on to N Face. 1st summit bid from C3 28th Sept and 2nd on 8th Oct. 1st reached 8000m and 2nd 7800m but wind slab avalanche danger turned them back. Both bids made by Valles; 1st with 4 Spanish members of other team and 2nd with 2 members of other Spanish team.

  15 Oct 3 remaining members to C1. 17 Oct Larma and Zamarbide to C2 and 19 Oct to about C3 (but camp not there) so bived. 20 Oct biv slightly higher still looking for camp. Much wind and cold (Larma frostbitten thumb) and no tent or biv sack so impossible to cook in wind. Down on 21 Oct. Left BC 27th Oct.


expid: MAKA89301
peakid: MAKA
year: 1989
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Pere Giro Beltran
sponsor: Makalu Penedes
bcdate: 1989-08-26
smtdate: 1989-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due bad conditions
othersmts: 2 small peaks
campsites: BC(26/08,5400m),C1(03/09,6100m),C2(12/09,6950m),C3(26/09,7600m),xxx(15/10,8100m)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  BC at high BC site (glacier's junction)
  C1 at plateau of Chago Glacier
  C2 on northwest side below Makalu La
  C3 at 1 hour above Makalu La
  High point on North Face

  Tried to go to summit from C4 four times. 1st on 27th Sept to 8000m; then 3 Oct (but could not reach Makalu because of wind slab danger following big snowfall after 27 Sept); 8 Oct when got to 7900m; and 15 Oct to 8100m in good weather but still dangerous from windslab and deep snow. On 15th one man fell into crevasse and were many avalanches; also was very cold: on 8 Oct was -35 degrees near 7900m in 100 kph wind so very cold fingers and toes. Before 15th Oct attempt had decided this was the last one with little time left and much effort spent. All except one had at least 2 nights in C3.

  Pierre Beghin came to this expedition's C3 in descent, unable to talk very coherently in his exhaustion; he spent night in their tent.

  Michel Dacher climbed in 1st and 3rd attempt with this team; 3rd time one American with them.

  This team was first to arrive and fix ropes, which others used.


expid: MAKA89304
peakid: MAKA
year: 1989
route1: S Face up; NW Ridge down
nation: France
leaders: Pierre Beghin
sponsor: Federal French Expedition 1989 to Makalu
ascent1: 30th
bcdate: 1989-09-07
smtdate: 1989-10-06
smttime: 1445
campsites: BC(07/09,4900m),C1(10/09,5800m),Biv(16/09,6600m),Smt(06/10)
accidents: None
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  BC southwest of Barun Pokhari
  C1 just below point 5860m in Schneider map
  C4 a series of bivs.

  In first half of Sept only Beghin and Cadot were climbing and they reached 6600m on 16th Sept and again 21 Sept with Gherson, who descended in that night with headache while other 2 slept there for first time. 22nd Beghin alone to 7100m fixing 200m rope. 23rd all to BC for rest before summit bid. 27th Sept 3 members to C1, but big storm arose and down to BC 28th. 1 meter fresh snow fall 28-30 Sept. From BC 2nd Oct 3 members to C1, which was badly damaged with sleeping bags in 10cm of melted snow but could dry them in sunshine. 

  3 Oct Beghin to 7100m and other 2 same altitude 4 hrs later and slept here. 4th Oct Cadot and Gherson down tired and cold, while Beghin up alone to 7700m, where bivouacked with minimum equipment (tent inner lining, 1 tent pole, stove, gas, pot, tea and coffee but no food, 2 ropes, pitons for very difficult technical section of 25m loose rock at 7300m which Beghin thought most dangerous section and took 2-3 hrs to surmount despite fear would have to give up). Biv 4th Oct alone at 7700m. Wind rose at night and carried spindrift snow in cold. 5th Oct Beghin climbed most difficult part of Yugoslavian route at 8000m-8150m where was powder snow on rock and ice, quite unsafe. Above 7600m was impossible to descend this route because of snow condition of this snow on rock. Above 8100m not so difficult and now had no more rope. Biv at 8200m on 5th, tired. 6th Oct reached W Pillar top and on up via S Face like Yugoslavians. Started on 6th Oct at 8:30 am and on summit 2:45 pm, was very cold and Beghin very tired and at end was 50m cliff of bad rock and here got some frostbite of 1 thumb; cold and strong wind and cloud. Stayed at summit 3 minutes. Left tent at last biv. On 6th descended in knee-deep snow with crust in places, arriving directly for tents he could see near Makalu La; was taken by avalanche 200m, head first, lost walkie-talkie; reached tents at 6:00 pm where found Carlos Valles and others, hoping for their own summit bid. 7th Beghin down alone via couloir, in last 400m snow crusted and again windslab avalanche took him down 400m, over 2 seracs, lost cameras, lost ice ax; stopped at gentle slope and joined normal track and reached 6400m camp of British and later high BC at 5:00 pm where 2 trekking friends awaited him. On 8th down to Beghin's BC.

  Fauquet arrived BC 6th Oct and 7th Oct he and Ghersen to C1. 8th these two reached 7100m; then 7300m and turned back, windy and they were discouraged.


expid: MAKA89305
peakid: MAKA
year: 1989
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Bruno Roth Zaugg
sponsor: Makalu Expedition
countries: Switzerland, W Germany
bcdate: 1989-09-09
smtdate: 1989-09-27
termdate: 1989-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to wind and snow
campsites: BC(09/09,5200m),C1(16/09,6200m),C2(17/09,6600m),xxx(27/09,8000m)
accidents: None
agency: Chomalhari Trekking
routememo:
  BC at glacier's junction
  C1 at Chago Glacier
  C2 also Chago Glacier
  High point on North Face.

  Dacher and Studer to 6600m 11th Sept and pitched C1 but did not sleep there. Juan went to 6200m with Spanish (not Catalans) and also down to BC. Same day Zaugg and Schertler not feeling well and down to British BC. Zaugg and Studer on 13th to own BC and Juan up with Spanish to 6200m slept there. Then heavy snowfall and Juan down 14th. 16th Dacher and Studer, Zaugg and Schertler to 6200m and slept there (Spanish C1). 17th Dacher and Studer to 6600m while Zaugg and Schertler down to BC, where Juan still was and were joined on 18th by Dacher and Studer.

  21st all 5 members up to C1 (Schertler, Juan, Zaugg, and Dacher and Studer) to C2. 22nd weather fog and a little snow so all down to BC. Zaugg made movies at 6400m before descending. 23rd Juan, Schertler and Zaugg left BC because snow conditions too difficult for their strength (Schertler went home while Juan and Zaugg to Thai beach). 

  Spanish asked Studer and Dacher to join forces and according to note from Studer up to 7000m on 25th and 26th to Makalu La and 27th to 8000m and turned back at 10:30 am in fog and down to BC same day. 60 hrs snowfall with nearly 1m at BC. 

  Studer left BC 30th Sept and flew home 7th Oct. Avalanches only few meters each side of camp at 6600m. Dacher remained with Spanish for his last chance on Makalu. After Studer left BC, Dacher went up to 7000m to retrieve gear and then left mountain. On 17th Oct, Dacher returned to KTM.


expid: MAKA89302
peakid: MAKA
year: 1989
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
route2: SE Ridge (to 6200m)
nation: UK
leaders: Michael Woolridge, Andy Fanshawe
sponsor: Blackspur Makalu Expedition 1989
countries: Ireland, Netherlands, USA
bcdate: 1989-08-27
smtdate: 1989-10-09
termdate: 1989-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to windslab avalanche danger and high winds
campsites: BC(27/08,4800m),C1(30/08,5400m),xxx(09/10,7500m)
accidents: None
agency: Rover Treks
othersmts:
  Attempted Kangchungste (Makalu II) (MAK2-893-01); climbed Chago (CHAG-893-01) and Yaupa (YAUP-893-01)

routememo:
  BC  at Tangmar, south-southwest of Barun Pokhari
  ABC at high BC
  Makalu high point at 7500m on North Face
  Kangchungtse high point on a summit atop West Face.

  After 13 Oct Collister and Griffin went up Makalu to point where route emerged above Makalu La (this season Makalu La was too dangerous and route taken went south of La and doubled back slightly, then onto North (or NE Face). About 15 Oct reached about same point as Collister and Jessop on 9 Oct. No accidents, etc. Abandoned it not so much because of wind, which there was but dangerous windslab.

  Kangchungtse not attempted after 13 Oct. 

  Had no fixed camps at all, but did not leave tent at ABC's shelf from time to time. First went to ABC on 30 Aug while others up north-northeast of BC; this was acclimatization and recce - "everybody did something different." 1st 3 weeks spent looking around. Saunders and Sustad started from 6500m (well up Chago Glacier) on 1:00 am 26th Sept and reached 7600m at 8:00 pm, then went to Makalu La; had done new route on West Face of Kangchungtse; hoped to return to biv at 6500m but weather diverted them to Makalu La, where biv from 2:30 to 5:00 am of 28th without sleeping bag or other gear. Took whole day to get back to 6500m in very poor visibility and another day in 6000m, all in storm conditions. 

  Irvine and Jessop got to 6200m at start of SE Ridge of Makalu at same time Saunders and Sustad were on Kangchungtse (late Sept).

  On normal route of Makalu, numerous times just below and to C3 at 7500m but never beyond by time S and W left BC on 13 Oct, worn out and discouraged. 4 left at Makalu but they were leaving BC on 20 Oct.


expid: YALU89301
peakid: YALU
year: 1989
route1: SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Park Soon-Jo
sponsor: 1989 Yalungkang Expedition of Won Ju Chiak Alpine Club
ascent1: 17th
bcdate: 1989-09-15
smtdate: 1989-10-13
smttime: 1555
termdate: 1989-10-16
campsites: BC(15/09,5500m),C1(23/09,6100m),C2(27/09,6300m),C3(07/10,7100m),C4(10/10,7900m),Smt(13/10)
accidents: None
achievment: 1st Korean and Nepalese on summit; 1st Korean attempt
agency: Adventure Nepal
routememo:
  BC at usual site on Yalung Glacier.

  Sho Kang-Ho had typhoid in KTM and left one week later thus rest of team, caught up with them at glacier before BC. Most difficult section was very steep part between BC and C1. From C4 very long and steep but no place for camp above and much stonefall. 

  Only one summit attempt which was successful. Others sick and tired so no other attempt afterwards. 13th Oct 7 am, 3 men started up from C4 and were on top 3:55 pm with no fixed rope above C4. Total 4240m rope fixed above BC. Summiters slept C4 on 13th and on 14th down to BC. Expedition left BC 16th Oct.


expid: EVER89306
peakid: EVER
year: 1989
route1: N Col-N Face (Great Couloir)
nation: USA
leaders: Keith Brown
sponsor: US Chomolungma Expedition
bcdate: 1989-08-21
smtdate: 1989-10-14
termdate: 1989-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to wind
accidents: None
agency: None
campsites:
  BC(21/08,5200m),ABC(25/08,6400m),C1(28/08,7000m),C2(08/09,7500m),Biv1(13/10,7700m),Biv2(14/10,7800m),xxx(14/10,7800m)

routememo:
  BC at road
  C1 at North Col
  High point on North Face.

  At 7600m placed deposit camp 7th Sept and then couldn't return for rest of Sept because of snow and in Oct it was wind. Brown did manage to reach 7600m camp on 13th Oct from N Col and from there took gear across face to 7700m to get out of wind. 14th Oct took gear at 7800m further across face; winds got worse during night of 14/15th so on 15th down to ABC, 17th to BC and left on 20th Oct. 

  Jan Harris left N Col on 13th giving up climb because he was run down; had done many trips BC-ABC and several trips to N Col and above.

  Maurice Wilson's body has been at ABC since 1986, when Spanish brought him there; just a pile of bones, perhaps 25% of total body. Americans buried the bones this autumn.


expid: EVER89310
peakid: EVER
year: 1989
route1: N Face (Japanese Couloir)
nation: Italy
leaders: Lorenzo Mazzoleni
sponsor: Italian Everest Expedition
bcdate: 1989-09-01
smtdate: 1989-09-25
termdate: 1989-10-07
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to bad weather and lack of time
campsites: BC(01/09,5200m),ABC(08/09,5600m),C1(11/09,6200m),C2(25/09,6900m),xxx(25/09,7500m)
accidents: None
agency: Trekking International
routememo:
  BC at road
  C2 at left edge of Japanese Couloir
  High point at C3 site.

  Made C2 early 5:00 am of 25th slept until 2:00 pm and on up to C3 site in early afternoon but strong wind and arrived at site at 4:00 pm. "Weather changed" and we went down to C1 because avalanche danger and now snowing. Never returned to C2 because bad weather continued and permit ended 15th Oct. Waited in C1 and ABC nearly 2 weeks, then abandoned climb.

  Should have lots of rope (3000m) to succeed in such weather conditions and more members.


expid: EVER89305
peakid: EVER
year: 1989
route1: N Col-N Face (Messner Couloir)
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Norbert Joos
sponsor: Everest Team on N Face
countries: Italy, W Germany
approach: by road via
bcdate: 1989-08-17
smtdate: 1989-09-25
termdate: 1989-10-01
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to deep snow and bad weather
campsites: BC(17/08,5200m),ABC(27/08,6450m),C1(06/09,7800m),xxx(25/09,8100m)
accidents: None
agency: Sherpa Society
routememo:
  BC at end of road
  C1 on North Face
  High point on N Face.

  All 3 climbers went to N Col on 31st Aug and back to BC same day. Much snowfall. Again up from BC on 5th Sept, 6th Sept to 7800m where made a camp and slept. 7th Sept down to BC with bad snow conditions, winds and not fully acclimatized. 

  Next 12 days in BC with snowfall most days and frequent avalanches. 20th Sept to ABC, 21st in ABC during snowfall, 22nd to N Col and back to ABC because bad snow conditions. 24th Diego and Hans to 7800m (Joos not well and down to ABC) where slept, planning to go 8400m and on to top. 25th Joos up very early from ABC to catch up with others and saw others leave C1 very late. Bad weather came in and when Hans and Kammerlander reached 8100m and climb finished because above 8100m very dangerous with wind slab and crust over deep snow making climb very slow and down to ABC. 26th to BC leaving ABC. 28th cleared ABC. Jeep at BC for other group arrived 30th Sept and this team used this, leaving BC 1st Sept for Nyalam.


expid: EVER89311
peakid: EVER
year: 1989
route1: N Col-N Ridge-N Face
nation: France
leaders: Eric Escoffier
sponsor: Everest Turbo 1989
countries: Switzerland
approach: KTM->Tingri-Rongbuk Glacier
bcdate: 1989-09-02
smtdate: 1989-09-07
termdate: 1989-10-04
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to snow and wind
campsites: BC(02/09),ABC(03-04/09,6400m),C1(06/09,7000m),C2(07/09,7800m),xxx(07/09-03/10,8700m)
accidents: None
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  BC at road
  C2 at left edge of Japanese Couloir
  High point at C3 site.

  Tried 4 times from ABC for summit bid but never above C2 because of some snow and a lot of wind. 2 members were in 2 attempts, other 3 members all 4 attempts, sometimes climbing with Jaccoux group. Pasang Gombu Sherpa carried loads to C2; he was shared with Jaccoux. Last attempt on 3-4 Oct. Gave up after this because enough time had been spent: had wanted to do Paris/summit/Paris in 2 weeks and had already spent months in mountains. Team experience was very good (had been able to go to 7800m so quickly and never below ABC without any problem). 

  Escoffier had no trouble going up when track was good. Sometimes problem descending in bad snow (motor nerves in brain damaged in motor accident 2 years ago).

  Escoffier: did no real climbing to 7800m, moved with ski poles; had some trouble descending; "a little disappointed" but will come to Everest again but on Nepalese side.


  Norbert Joos - 9 Aug 1989

  Escoffier on Everest: attempting fastest trip Paris/Everest Summit/Paris.

  Acclimatizing in special chamber in France (near Chamonix). His baggage taken into Nepal and China by Jaccoux.

  "It won't work - I hope it doesn't."  
  "Just a show - not mountaineering."


expid: EVER89302
peakid: EVER
year: 1989
route1: NE Ridge (to 7030m)
route2: N Col-NE Ridge (to 8000m)
nation: USA
leaders: Gary Speer
sponsor: Everest, The Unclimbed Ridge
countries: UK
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk Glacier
bcdate: 1989-08-13
smtdate: 1989-10-11
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to winds
othersmts: 7000m peak N of Everest
campsites: BC(13/08,5180m),ABC(17/08,6400m),C1(25/08),C2(28/09,7100m),C3(10/10,7800m),xxx(11/10,8000m)
accidents: Walker minor pulmonary edema only
agency: Rover Treks
routememo:
  BC at road
  C1 on NE Ridge ("the unclimbed ridge")
  C2 on N Col
  C3 on buttress leading to N Ridge
  High point at N Face.

  Never got more than 24,000 ft on NE Ridge in 3 attempts to go up ridge but waist-deep snow and set off avalanches from 13th to 24th Sept. Kept building up supplies in C1 in Sept after having fixed rope by 12th, hoping their supplies would go on to higher camps. 

  Decided to abandon NE route about 25th Sept and to go to classical route with Goodwill team. By early Oct, N Ridge looked safe because winds had blown away snow but now winds unbearable. Snow was down to knee-deep; temperature very low and winds c70 mph and blew all night long.


expid: EVER89304
peakid: EVER
year: 1989
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Claude Jaccoux
sponsor: Tibet Everest 1989
countries: Belgium, W Germany
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk Glacier
bcdate: 1989-08-16
smtdate: 1989-10-03
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to wind and fixed dates
campsites: BC(16/08,5200m),ABC(18/08,6300m),C1(18/08,6300m),C2(22/08,7000m),C3(02/09,7800m),xxx(03/10,8300m)
accidents: None
agency: Sherpa Society
routememo:
  BC at road
  C2 at North Col
  C3 at buttress to N Ridge.

  3rd Oct Vincent to 8200m while two had gone before him to 8300m. 1st summit attempt actually was on 24th Sept after period of snowfall and snow slab avalanche danger (was with Kammerlander and Wellig). After this, wind was the problem. Had to leave ABC because yaks ordered for 6 Oct and flight from KTM booked for 14 Oct. 6 left early after 1st summit bid failed.


expid: EVER89307
peakid: EVER
year: 1989
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Michael Dunn
sponsor: American Goodwill Everest Expedition
countries: Australia, Mexico
bcdate: 1989-08-23
smtdate: 1989-10-24
termdate: 1989-10-29
termnote: Abandoned at 8600m due to wind and cold
accidents: Rabold stroke (?) and Slade CO2 in tent; Litherland fell 20m but not hurt
agency: White Magic
campsites:
  BC(23/08,5176n),C3.ABC(03/09,6550m),C4(24/09,7000m),C5(21/10,7800m),C6(23/10,8300m),xxx(24/10,8600m)

routememo:
  C4 at North Col
  High point at 2nd Step.

  Did carries to Col camp for long time bafore establishing camp: were stocking supplies there. 1st time C5 was slept in was 21 Oct because winds: 100 mph gusts (60 mph sustained). 21 Oct was summit attack by Tejas and Litherland, on 22nd biv at 8200m after late start without tent trying to reach C6, where Spanish summer team's tents were. 23rd reached Spanish tent which was usable and that was last calm day with winds starting at 3:00 am on 24th. Got to 8600m at foot of 2nd Step, got frostbitten in cold wind and turned down 24th. 

  Horner and Ongden Sherpa to C5, 25th down in screaming wind. 26th abandoned N Col camp, 28th cleared ABC and left BC 29th Oct.


expid: EVER89303
peakid: EVER
year: 1989
route1: N Face (Great Couloir)
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Darko Berljak
sponsor: Zagreb Mountaineering Expedition to Mount Everest
bcdate: 1989-08-15
smtdate: 1989-10-11
termdate: 1989-10-19
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to dangerous snow conditions
othersmts: Guangmrig Peak to 20m below summit
campsites: BC(15/08,5170m),ABC(17/08,5650m),C1(20/08,5900m),C2(03/09,7000m),C3(11/10,7600m),xxx(11/10,7800m)
accidents: Kregar fell 400m and broke ribs; Sveticic fell 100m and broke knee
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at road
  ABC near point 5560m NGS map
  C1  at bottom of Changtse West Ridge (near point 6080m NGS map)
  C2  100m above Australian White Limbo's camp
  C3  at bottom of Great Couloir.

  Had an Advance C1 which was depot and rest place, but snow cave, and 100 carries to C2 as an advanced ABC, so time to build up supplies there. Rope above C1 to C2 had to be replaced every 5-6 days because of avalanching. Very dangerous route for avalanching. All 6 members who reached C3 were in avalanches. At highest point man fell 200m from high point down to C3 and reported on walkie-talkie that someone would be killed if tried to go higher. Left BC 19 Oct. Difficult to walk at BC because of wind.


expid: ANN189101
peakid: ANN1
year: 1989
route1: S Face
nation: France
leaders: Marc Batard
sponsor: Marc Batard Autumn 1989 Annapurna I Expedition
bcdate: 1989-04-04
smtdate: 1989-04-06
termdate: 1989-04-07
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to objective dangers
othersmts: Attempted Everest (EVER-891-07)
campsites: BC(04/04,4200m),xxx(06/04,5800m)
accidents: None
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Went quickly to the face but too much snow, dangerous crevasse area where snow covered them from sight; also dangerous seracs falling. Left BC 7th April was in Pokhara yesterday morning, Kathmandu later same day. Another reason to abandon Annapurna for Everest is that he has had a problem with his knee for six years & there are doctors at Everest base camp: "better to go to Everest quickly."

  Hirsh did not go on to face. He is coming to KTM with baggage, will arrive KTM about 12 April & will then go to Khumbu to join Batard (actually arrived KTM 10 April).


expid: LHOT89101
peakid: LHOT
year: 1989
route1: W Face
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Jovan Poposki
sponsor: Jovan Poposki Autumn 1989 Everest Lhotse Expedition
ascent1: 19th
bcdate: 1989-03-31
smtdate: 1989-04-30
smttime: 1445
othersmts: Climbed Everest (EVER-891-05)
campsites: BC(31/03,5300m),C1(07/04,6100m),C2(09/04,6700m),C3(17/04,7300m),Smt(30/04)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
primid: EVER89105
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face.

  Bozic and Groselj arrived BC 15 April. Started together from C3 to Lhotse summit on 30 April. Left C3 at 12:45 am. Bozic stopped at yellow band, down to C3 to warm his freezing feet, up again to 8200m, waited there watching Groselj descend from summit. Groselj reached summit at about 2:45 pm without oxygen in very good snow conditions except no snow in couloir, very strong wind (others unable to reach C3 from C2 on other expedition), extremely cold summit covered by cloud. Descending couloir very bad; fell 10m into soft snow. Very tired; cannot remember details. Up to 7800m used fixed ropes (Yugo and US). Returned to C3 together at 8:00 pm. Next day 1 May to BC. Bozic realized Groselj was straying off route and moved to left to meet him.

  No Sherpas above C3 for Lhotse.


expid: ANN189401
peakid: ANN1
year: 1989
route1: S Face
nation: Bulgaria
leaders: Metodi Stefanov Savov
sponsor: Bulgarian Annapurna I S Face Winter Expedition 1989
bcdate: 1989-11-22
smtdate: 1989-12-16
termdate: 1989-12-22
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to heavy fresh snowfall
campsites: BC(22/11,3800m),ABC(26/11,5400m),C1(04/12,5600m),xxx(16/12,6600m)
accidents: None
agency: Unknown
routememo:
  BC on west side of Annapurna Glacier in Annapurna Sanctuary.

  BC lower than planned because 20 Nov 20 cm snow fell and porters could not go to planned site. Route used above C1 swept 3 times by avalanches (no one hurt). Was dangerous route but more direct to 6600m than previous Bulgarian route. Reached a camp site at 6600m but no camp established here. No camp below 6600m because no place to put a camp. On 16 Dec did not put camp here but fixed rope to this moving camp as they ascended with 2 biv (7500m and 7800m where there are places to camp). But after descent to BC after 16 Dec, more than one meter of new snow fell. Some members did go up to ABC and C1 only to clear these camps. With new snowfall much avalanching carried ropes away. Had fixed about 1200m rope from 5700m to 6600m.


expid: ANN189402
peakid: ANN1
year: 1989
route1: N Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Jang Bong-Wan
sponsor: 1989-90 Korean Annapurna I Winter Expedition
bcdate: 1989-11-26
smtdate: 1989-12-19
termdate: 1990-01-01
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(11/26/11,4050m),ABC(04/12),C1(02/12,5350m),C2(08/12,5990m),C3(18/12,6700m),xxx(19/12,7300m)
accidents: None
agency: Annapurna Mountaineering & Trekking
routememo:
  19 Dec making route to C4, then down to C2 because strong wind and cloudy. C2 little snowfall and down further. 23 Dec again to C3 and deposit C3 gear there and down same day. 4 or 5 times carrying gear to C3, but some carried below C3 because again strong wind and cloud and some snowfall.

  After C1 established, no one stayed at BC. Fixed total 2000m. All rib fixed with double rope on very steep mixed rock and snow on South Face of rib and at big serac at top of rib.


expid: DHA189401
peakid: DHA1
year: 1989
route1: NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Laurent Lukie
sponsor: Dhaulagiri Winter 1989
approach: Via Marshyangdi
bcdate: 1989-11-24
smtdate: 1989-12-03
termdate: 1989-12-09
termnote: Abandoned at 5200m due to bad snow conditions
othersmts: Climbed Tukuche (TUKU-894-01)
campsites: BC(24/11,4700m),xxx(03/12,5200m)
accidents: 1 serious altitude sickness; 1 porter killed at BC
agency: Unknown
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  High point at flat place between 2 sections of icefall.

  Snowed and rained for 72 hrs when arrived at BC. Profit's fixed ropes under 1m fresh snow: "crazy" says Lukie. To reach start of climb, must go through chest deep snow with hard crust after strong winds began. Were only 2 men climbers: Cousteix had cereberal edema and Beulne stayed with him at Marpha; they arrived at BC late. Doctor BC only, so only 2 men to break trail. 

  At this time of year need skies. On 3rd Dec Besson and Lukie tried to go up and went only into icefall; to reach col with only 2 men in such snow conditions and new snowfall impossible. Ridge above N Col in good condition. Then porters to BC had had to wait 5 days at BC and on this retreat from BC one porter killed by avalanche off W Face on 28th Nov. They used much food at BC; sent cook and kitchen boy to Marpha for more supplies; they got lost trying to find French Pass; had to sleep out and Naike's feet froze.

  Beulne and Cousteix arrived in Nepal late and flew to Jomsom, Cousteix sick at Marpha; arrived BC 2 Dec (Beulne) and 8th Dec (Cousteix). Expedition left BC 9th Dec and had trouble getting out in deep snow.

  Only two members did any climbing on Dhaulagiri, for one member developed serious altitude sickness and another stayed at base camp with him. So with no climbing Sherpas they were too weak a party to break trail through chest-deep snow in a prolonged period of new snowfall. The NE Ridge above the North Col appeared to be in good condition, but it was impossible for only two men to even reach the col in such snow conditions. (It might have helped if they had brought skis). 

  The two Dhaulagiri climbers, Besson and Lukie, plus Beulne, who had been with the sick man, did go over to nearby Mt. Tukuche and successfully scaled it by its NE Ridge.


expid: DHA189402
peakid: DHA1
year: 1989
route1: E Face-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Timothy Brill, James Yoder
sponsor: Americans on Dhaulagiri I
countries: Canada
approach: Via Manang with support trek
bcdate: 1989-11-28
smtdate: 1989-12-19
termdate: 1990-01-09
termnote: Abandoned at 7315m
othersmts: Chulu West
campsites: BC(28/11,3840m),C1(05/12,5090m),C2(15/12,5975m),C3(18/12,6400m),xxx(19/12,7315m)
accidents: None except disappearance of Barber, McGrath and Nuru Sherpa
agency: Sherpa Cooperative Trekking (SCT)
routememo:
  BC at snout of glacier south of up Gote Khola ridge/rock spur south of Pt 6014m
  High point on NE Ridge.

  Had always planned to attempt E Face to NE Ridge. Yoder left expedition from BC 21 Dec after all 6 had made stash; left to get another stove to replace stove had blown up; returned to BC same day and decided to go to KTM to try to extract funds from Brill, who had not produced promised money and [Yoder] left BC 22nd Dec for KTM. 

  Back up on Mtn on 21st Dec by Bulcock and Nuru Wangchuk; other Americans were already up; kept moving gear up into higher camps. Then Bulcock, Cain and Millar decided 23 Dec to go down and stop climbing because they were very tired and had had enough. Bulcock and Millar left BC 24th Dec. 

  Then 9-day snowstorm; Barber, McGrath and Nuru were in C3 on 23rd; had decided to keep pushing on up. Cain stayed at BC C2 until 3 Jan (stayed to take photos and meet others in their descent, but left to fly out of Nepal on 8 Jan to return to work). Now at BC were only cook and kitchen boy. After snowstorm stopped 1 Jan, Cain could see nothing of C3 (or high stash), rocks on ridge or any other signs of expedition except C1, which was still in place (C2 normally not visible came came was "around the corner"). Yoder and Bulcock went from KTM 6th Jan and reached BC site 8th; cook and kitchen boy had dismantled camp and left site with gear on 6th; could see no C3 or sign of life.

  Group were more a collection of people wanting to climb Dhaulagiri than a team. Brill went on approach march but did not go to BC and left Nepal 31 Nov. Yoder would take walkie-talkies if doing climb over again, but otherwise would not change tactics. Yoder only member with any experience in Himalayan climbing.


  US Dhaulagiri I, Winter 1989

  Bodies found 1000 ft above BC - had been killed by avalanche - seen by police who went up after same of their clothing seen in Jomsom was really running expedition. Brill and Nuru were developing business together. Brill "not motivated" to climb and had decided several months in advance not to go to Dhaulagiri - took trekking group around Annapurna.

  Climbed the approach to East Face, then traversed at about 6000m to standard NE Ridge route and placed highest known camp at 6400m on ridge. All members (except Brill, who never actually went to base camp) carried loads to cache in a snowhole at 7315m on ridge on 19 Dec. On 23 Dec Barber, McGrath and Nuru Sherpa were in camp at 6400m. for summit bid while other members were either in base or had left for Kathmandu. Severe 9-day snowstorm struck a day or so later and men on mountain never seen alive again. Nor could their camp and cache above be seen when weather finally cleared. By 2 Jan only Nepalese cook and kitchen helper at base, and they dismantled camp four days later. Bodies of avalanche victims found later by police at 4000m.


expid: LSIS89401
peakid: LSIS
year: 1989
route1: S Face-SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Myung-Dong
sponsor: 1989-90 Tearyun High School Alpine Club Winter Langshisa Ri
ascent1: 8th
bcdate: 1989-12-09
smtdate: 1989-12-14
smttime: 0919
campsites: BC(09/12,4500m),C1(11/12,5800m),Smt(14/12)
accidents: Nothing serious; Kim Tae-Soon developed altitude sickness on approach march
achievment: 1st winter ascent
agency: Unknown
routememo:
  BC at Langshisa Glacier
  C1 at same site of New Zealand team in spring 1986.

  No snow below 5600m, weather good and full moon. Fixed rope from 6000m, where dangerous blue ice started, to summit; face very steep. Yang only to 5200m and 3 others only to 5000m; all members had headaches. 

  Kim Bo-Youl and Dawa Sherpa left C1 4 am on 14th Dec and reached top 9:19 am, returned to BC 5 pm. Kim very tired but Dawa Sherpa very strong. 

  15th Dec Lee Dong-Myung and Ang Kami up from BC but weather turned bad with black clouds arriving and climbers turned back and expedition ended.

  Cho Soo-Young and Park Soon-Sek arrived BC 16th Dec same day expedition left BC; so with Kim Tae-Soon now arriving in BC, total 6 Koreans climbing.


expid: LANR89401
peakid: LANR
year: 1989
route1: SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Park Young-Seok
sponsor: 1989-90 Korean Winter Himalaya Langtang Ri Expedition
ascent1: 6th
bcdate: 1989-12-03
smtdate: 1989-12-09
smttime: 1350
termdate: 1989-12-10
campsites: BC(03/12,4950m),C1(03/12,5500m),C2(05/12,6200m),C3(08/12,6500m),Smt(09/12)
accidents: 'Only headaches'
achievment: 1st winter ascent; 1st Korean ascent
agency: Unknown
routememo:
  C1 at Japanese depot camp
  C2 on SW Ridge's north side
  C3 on SW Ridge's north side.

  SW Ridge very sharp knife ridge with many steep snowfaced walls; fixed rope for 1000m from C1 to half-way between C2 and C3. 

  Summit party started from C3 at 5:50 am, on top 1:50 pm, back at C3 4:30 pm and to C2 7 pm. Left BC 10th Dec.

  Kim did not get above C1 because of headache. 


expid: TILI89401
peakid: TILI
year: 1989
route1: NE Spur-N Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Stephen Adamson
sponsor: 1989 Winter Canadian Mt. Tilicho Expedition
bcdate: 1989-11-28
smtdate: 1989-12-02
termdate: 1989-12-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to powder snow
campsites: BC(28/11,4800m),C1(01/12,5200m),xxx(02/12,6100m)
accidents: None
agency: Unknown
routememo:
  BC on northwest shore of Tilicho Lake
  C1 at NE Spur (which leads to North Ridge)
  High point on North Ridge.

  A foot of loose powder snow on top of shale on spur. Got near site for a C2 but decided not worth continuing with such snow. Only two people got onto mountain at all: "didn't want only pain," others just not interested in climbing.


expid: CHOY89402
peakid: CHOY
year: 1989
route1: SE Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Ho-Sang
sponsor: Korean Winter Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 1989-12-12
smtdate: 1989-12-25
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to death of Sirdar Ang Lhakpa
campsites: BC(12/12,5400m),ABC(16/12,5500m),C1(18/12,6400m),C2(20/12,6800m),xxx(25/12,7800m)
accidents: Only Ang Lhakpa fatal fall
routememo:
  C2 on East Face 
  High point on SE Face.

  25th Dec all Koreans in C2 with high-altitude headache so high climbers were Ang Lhakpa and Ang Tshering, only were above C2 making route to C3 to be pitched at 7900m. Ang Tshering reached 7600m and Ang Lhakpa fell 200m from 7800m down face at 3:20 pm (Ang Tshering saw him fall and came to rest). Avalanche took away C2 tent in which there was no one because climbers were out trying to reach Ang Lhakpa but then big snow avalanching carried away body and it not found. After his death, all Sherpas refused to climb any more and members therefore also abandoned climb. Had planned Sherpas would stock C3 and then an alpine-style summit bid from C3 by 3 Koreans and Ang Lhakpa. Team never intended to attempt SW Face and did not do so.

  Belgians suggested 2 teams climb together on 18th Dec but Koreans they talked to did not understand and did not agree. Belgians cut fixed ropes and seized new rope and this made Sherpas angry (Koreans also angry) and Sherpas attacked Belgians; Koreans did not join fight but separated Sherpas and Belgians (Lee was not at camp where fight took place).

  This team and Belgian-French party climbed on SE Face to the right of normal line used successfully by Austrian-German team in 1978. Highest point reached 7800m was gained by Ang Lhakpa Sherpa alone; he then fell 200m and a big snow avalanche immediately carried away his body. Other Sherpas refused to continue climb, and Koreans too gave up.


expid: CHOY89401
peakid: CHOY
year: 1989
route1: SE Face
nation: Belgium
leaders: Alain Hubert
sponsor: Cho Oyu Nepalese Himalaya Belgium Expedition 1989
countries: France
bcdate: 1989-11-26
smtdate: 1989-12-16
termdate: 1989-12-18
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to dangerous serac avalanching
campsites: BC(26/11,5250m),C1(06/12,6150m),C2(10/12,6800m),xxx(16/12,7200m)
accidents: Brent very serious altitude sickness
agency: Unknown
routememo:
  BC at Lungsampa Glacier at bottom of face
  C1 at Polish C1.

  Constant serac avalanching on face night and day. Same route as Poles to 6000m; impossible to climb direct line below 6000m where are very big crevases on a direct line. 4 km long route if follow Polish route above 6000m and expedition had tents only for 2 camps; tried to climb right ridge of face. Very difficult to decide to stop climb becasue ice in good condition and technically not excessively difficult. Summit bid started 15th Dec and reached C2. 16th 4:00 am started up again but snowing and clouds and no chance for success it seemed, and will power not strong enough. Turned back at 7200m and down to C1 same day. On 18th at BC decided serac avalanching too dangerous. At C2 during night -30 degrees but dry. Wind strong but not possible.

  Decision to abandon climb influenced greatly by presence of Korean expedition who had arrived at Belgium BC about 12th Dec to climb SE Face despite their permit was for SW Ridge. Koreans made no attempt to climb their permitted route. Koreans came to Belgian route, used Belgian fixed ropes without asking and made C1 same site. Sherpas did the climbing on Korean expedition.

  17 Dec in BC. 18 Dec Hubert and Maincent to Korean's C1 to talk to Koreans to try again to arrange sharing route. Koreans refused to talk so Belgiums said would next day remove own rope and this day 18th cut on Korean rope at bottom of route (on 19th Korean's Sherpas replaced their rope and Belgians took down their own short section of rope. Koreans fixed entire route). On 19th evening (6:00 pm) 3 Koreans (including 2nd leader) and 7 Korean Sherpas came over to Belgium BC to fight: 2nd leader said to Hubert and Maincent, the only Belgian team members in BC, "I kill you" and 2 Koreans with sticks and 2 Sherpas with fists attacked Hubert and Maincent. Maincent, who argued and resisted, was more seriously attacked and bled from on temple from stick. Both Hubert and Maincent legs had to use ski poles to help them walk afterwards. When blood seen by Korean's Sherpas they were afraid and when Hubert returned to their camp; fight lasted 1 hour. Hubert and Maincent left BC at 9:30 pm leaving their 2 Sherpas at camp, fearing Koreans would return and again attack in their larger members; reached Gokyo early in morning and then continued on down. "I never imagined such a thing could happen." At time of fight, Belgian's party at BC were only Hubert and Maincent and 2 Sherpas; Lane and Nyssens had left on 17th as originally planned they would.

  Maincent was tied with a rope around his neck connected to his hands behind his back; he fell over and was able to free his hands from insecure knots.

  Team had hoped that big serac wall would not be very dangerous in winter time, which is why they chose to climb in winter season, but constant serac avalanching on SE Face night and day forced abandonment of climb. They made their attempt via a line to the right of the normal route.


expid: LHOT89401
peakid: LHOT
year: 1989
route1: S Face
nation: France
leaders: Marc Batard
sponsor: Marc Batard Lhotse S Face Expedition
bcdate: 1989-11-25
smtdate: 1989-11-29
termdate: 1989-12-01
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to direct route too dangerous
campsites: BC(25/11,4760m),C1(28/11,6000m),xxx(29/11,7000m)
accidents: No accidents
agency: Unknown
routememo:
  BC at Chhukung
  C1 on S Face of Lhotse/Lhotse Shar (Polish autumn 1989 C2)
  High point on South Face.

  Batard went immediately to acclimatize on Lhotse S Face because Polish autumn expedition's ropes went there and in perfect condition. Tents were still there at C2 (C3 and C4 tents were collapsed and unusable). Started up face on 26th Nov and went directly from Chhukung to 6250m on face and back to BC same day. 27th at BC for rest. 28th afternoon went to Polish C2 at 6200m and slept there. 29th up to 7000m and back to BC same day. Decided to wait for Profit: too dangerous to climb alone on direct route (too dangerous for Batard) and to use Polish route too easy with Polish ropes in place. Profit wanted to climb Polish route, Batard would also and go faster than he. If Profit going top direct route, Batard not interested in climbing with him because Profit slower and it would wear carrying too much gear and summit not possible. Profit, who did not invite Batard to join him, said he was not interested in Polish route. They met at Namche on 1st Dec and Batard did not return to Chhukung; abandoned idea of climb. Batard cannot do what Beghin or Messner (or Kukuczka) can do: climb slowly steadily with heavy load; Batard can only go "very high and very quick."

  Batard declared he was not interested in following the Polish autumn 1989 route and using their ropes but only in making his own new route more directly to the summit than the Poles line. But he found his direct line too dangerous for a his kind of solo bid and abandoned his attempt after having reached a high point of 7000m in only two days climb. "I cannot do what Beghin or Messner can do, climb alone slowly, steadily with a heavy loads; I can only go very light and very quick." He left the mountain before Profit and Lucas began their climb.


expid: LHOT89402
peakid: LHOT
year: 1989
route1: S Face
nation: France
leaders: Christophe Profit
sponsor: Lhotse S Face en Duo
countries: Spain, Netherlands
bcdate: 1989-12-05
smtdate: 1989-12-29
termdate: 1990-01-22
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to continuous strong wind
campsites: BC(05/12,4700m),xxx(29/12,20/01,7300m)
accidents: None
agency: Kunga
routememo:
  BC at Chhukhung
  C1 no fixed camps
  C3 at routes and bivouacs
  High point at South Face.

  5 times on face: 1st with Lucas, other times alone:

  1. 17th Dec 6:00 pm from BC climbed all night and all day 18th via new route and reached biv at 6750m at 6:00 pm 18th, stayed 2 nights and left some supplies. Down via Polish route (and ropes) to bottom of face in 4 hrs and to BC. Down because clouds and snow coming. Lucas went home.

  2. 28th Dec 1 pm from BC, climbed all night up Polish route; reached Polish C4 (7300m) for 1st biv, where arrived 3:30 pm 29th. Big problem with wind, which almost blew tent down face at 3:00 am and had to make snowhole. 30th all day in snowhole because of wind. 31st down to BC starting 4:00 pm when wind abated and reached BC 2:00 am on 1st Jan.

  3. 12 Jan from BC 8:30 pm, bottom of face 1:15 pm 13th climbed all night and stopped 7:00 am 13th 5560m because very strong wind. Back to BC same day - Polish route.

  4. 19th Jan from BC 10:00 pm, bottom of face 1:30 pm 20th and up very quickly: 7300m at 2:30 pm 20th on Polish route. Slept in snowhole again because of wind. 21st and 22nd night also slept there. 23rd down at 10:00 am, bottom of face 3:00 pm 23rd was in very good condition but impossible to climb in very strong wind.

  After Lucas went home, Profit climbed only Polish route for maximum security "which is very importent for me." 1st time alone on face was not to reach summit but to carry up supplies. 2nd and 3rd times alone on face were attempts to reach summit.

  No falling stones or ice on Polish route, but some to its right. "Face is very big - 3500 meters. Takes long time to fix rope if you are a big expedition and get very tired." Exposed to wind and in spring and autumn a lot of snow. Can be climbed if no wind or no snow; necessary to spend 3 more days above 7300m if an expedition, Profit would have taken in ascent 4 days total:
   
    1st to 7300m
    2nd to 7600m
    3rd to 8000m
    4th to top 
    5th to 7300m
    6th to BC 

  Would like to return to Face. In BC late Nov and start climb early Dec - very safe period, no stone, ice good. Would return to Profit-Lucas new route. This time spent days looking at face, deciding route. 

  Profit and Lucas attempted the great South Face by a previously untried line to the left of Polish autumn 1989 route, and in 24 hours of continuous climbing gained 2600 vertical meters to bivouac at 6750m. But then they traversed to Poles' fixed ropes and descended when a snowstorm approached. Lucas went home while Profit stayed and went up the face alone three times via the Polish route, for it was much safer for a soloist to use the fixed ropes. His plan was to climb the face in four days bivouacing at 7300m, 7600m and 8000m in the ascent, fourth 7800m. He had to spend two to three hours to overcome difficult section where he kept slipping one or two meters ("this was most difficult problem I had ever encountered and I was afraid I couldn't solve it"). He managed to reach the NE Ridge at 7800m at 3:00 pm on the 10th, when it started to snow. He was exhausted and with snow falling; he decided against pushing on up to the summit and instead descended. Climb was now over.


expid: PUMO89402
peakid: PUMO
year: 1989
route1: SE Rib-E Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Anton Stocker
sponsor: S Tirolean Himalayan Expedition to Pumori
bcdate: 1990-01-12
smtdate: 1990-01-22
termdate: 1990-01-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6950m due to objective obstacles (serac and crevasses)
campsites: BC(12/01,5300m),C1(21/01,6200m),xxx(22/01,6950m)
accidents: None
agency: Unknown
routememo:
  BC at bottom of big lake
  C1 at glacier at top rock rib due south of point 6576m
  High point at SE Rib.

  After BC, 5 days acclimatizing, then started climbing. After reaching site for C1 on 21st, came down to biv at 6000m because of dense fog and snow threatened. Down to BC 19th, 21st in good weather BC to C1 where slept. 22nd summit bid; reached 6950m, where was big serac and crevasse which stopped climb via East Ridge. Returned to C1 and 23rd to BC and climb finished because permit only for this route. 

  High point reached by 2 members; 2 others, Stocker and Stricker, stopped 6780m. Thought they were on normal route. Left BC 24 Jan.


expid: PUMO89401
peakid: PUMO
year: 1989
route1: SE Face/Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Carl Harrison
sponsor: American Pumori Winter Expedition
countries: Australia
bcdate: 1989-12-24
smtdate: 1989-12-25
termdate: 1989-12-31
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to George Curry's death
campsites: BC(24/12,5300m),xxx(28/12,5800m)
accidents: None
agency: Unknown
routememo:
  BC at bottom end of lake
  High point at start of buttress.

  Stayed at BC few days then decided to go up one afternoon to look at the mountain see route and how snow condition: 5 members climbed for 2 hrs. On 28th when at 4:00 pm Curry fell, Nations and Harrison had reached the high point and turned around when Curry on 30 degrees ice, easy ground, started sliding; never tried self arrest in 500 ft slide and then went out of sight. Did not call out or respond to Harrison's shouts to him to stop but did not appear to try to stop (had crampons and ice axe). Team was unroped. Curry slid all the way down mountain. Found him only next day. Slid/fell about 2000 vertical meters; body in one piece but unrecognizable. Wife was part of search party on 29th. Certainly did not survive fall; was there watching crossing patch of ice on which Curry had slipped. Body taken to scree at bottom of SE face and then off falling stone and ice after sun hit face, covered it completely. 

  30th decided to continue climb and went out again to look at route. Did not climb up but looked up from around base. 31st got up to go up but no one wanted to climb. "Our hearts weren't in it." Could easily avoid the objective dangers.


expid: TAWO89401
peakid: TAWO
year: 1989
route1: NE Pillar (to 5500m)
route2: N Face (to 5350m)
route3: E Ridge up; SE Face down
route4: SE Face
nation: UK
leaders: David Etherington
sponsor: British Winter Taboche Expedition
ascent3: 7th
ascent4: 8th
countries: W Germany
bcdate: 1989-11-20
smtdate: 1989-12-11
smttime: 1245
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East (LOBE-894-01) and Pokalde
campsites: BC(20/11,4250m),ABC(26/11,5060m),Smt(11,18/12)
accidents: Nothing serious
achievment: 1st ascent of E Ridge; 1st British and German to summit
agency: Unknown
routememo:
  BC  across river from Pheriche at Na Wagla
  ABC between 5096m and 5110m on Schneider map.

  Attempted NE Buttress first, got to 5500m on 4th Dec by Etherington and Schneider in 3-day attempt from ABC on 2nd Dec. Abandoned this route because of slow progress in deep powder snow. Back to BC on 5th Dec. At same time other two members made attempts on North Face twice and got to 5350m on 2nd attempt on 6th Dec; turned back by extreme cold and wind slab. 7th Dec Etherington and Schneider from BC to ABC for attempt on E Ridge (same as British 1988 Duff); 9th Dec 3:20 am from ABC and reached 5600m on ridge; 10th to 6140m where bived next to crevasse on glacier. 11th 8:30 am left without gear and got to top via bad wind slab on summit ridge at 12:45 pm and back to last biv 3:30 pm and 12th to BC via SE Face near Japanese Couloir same day. 

  12th Dec Chippendale and Emerson left BC and went to lake underneath SE Face. 13th back to BC because of heavy snow previous day. 15th to same point 5172m. 16th climbed SE Face to 5700m where biv on ledge too small (Emerson too cramped and moved up). 17th went into Japanese Couloir (climbed Japanese 1985 route probably) and reached Japanese biv at 6140m when found nut from Etherington's ice axe. 18th climbed summit pyramid by slightly different route from others descent route; got to 10m below summit (as did others) via summit ridge (on East Ridge) (didn't go up last 10m because of unnecessary great risk - would have been fatal to climb from wind slab) at 11:30 am and down same route to last biv. 19th to BC.

  Lobuche East climbed by Etherington and Schneider. Left BC 16th Dec; one night in Lobuche village; 17th to base of E Face couloir; 18th climbed from biv at 5200m up couloir and reached top of mountain at 4:00 pm and to biv at 5300m on normal route; 19th back in BC. 22nd other two left BC to try Lobuche East and got to 5200m; 23rd to bottom of couloir 5400m where exhausted and back down. 

  Pokalde climbed by Etherington; left BC 22nd at 5:15 am and reached 11:00 am via normal on North Ridge and down to Namche where joined Schneider; other 2 arrived 24th Dec in time for Xmas.

  "Alpine style, clean, fast and light" says Emerson.


expid: YALU89401
peakid: YALU
year: 1989
route1: SE Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Teuk-Hee
sponsor: 1989-90 Korean Winter Yalung Kang Expedition
ascent1: 18th
bcdate: 1989-11-27
smtdate: 1989-12-20
smttime: 1605
campsites: BC(27/11,5500m),C1(02/12,6150m),C2(05/12,6600m),C3(08/12,7500m),C4(12/12,8100m),Smt(20/12)
accidents: 3 fatalities on summit ascent; Kim Sang-Ho severe altitude sickness and stayed below BC
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C3 above Great Shelf.

  Planned all climing finished 13th Dec but because of cold and wind climbing prolonged. 13th up to 8300m but very strong wind and cold defeated this summit bid and all to C3 except Jin and 2 Sherpas, Ang Dawa Sherpa and Tchiring Thebe Lama to C4. 20th the 3 men 4:30 am started up, 2:30 pm cloudy and windy and worried about returning late but kept going up and reached summit 4:05 pm (if turned back at 2:30 would be dark by time reached C4 anyway - had headlamps). 5 mins rest and photos at top. At 4:14 pm leader at BC talking with sirdar; base and sirdar stopped talking and Kim tried to talk to summit Sherpa but no answer; men in C4 also tried to contact summiter but also received no answer all night. 21st search by men in C4 and C1 but no trace. Probably 3 summiters fell down N Face. No avalanching and could not be seen 21st morning in clear but windy weather. No snowfall during windy night of 20th.

  1st summit bid leader and Sherpas used oxygen at and above C4 and other members except Jin used it climbing above C4. 

  2nd summit bid Jin used oxygen sleeping in C4 and climbing above C4, but Sherpas used it only sleeping.

  Kim finds it difficult to accept that Jin is dead, that he is not just late coming back from N Face.


expid: ANNS90101
peakid: ANNS
year: 1990
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Philippe Berger
sponsor: Annapurna S Expedition
bcdate: 1990-05-12
smtdate: 1990-05-13
termdate: 1990-05-17
termnote: Abandoned at 5750m due to dangerous snow conditions
campsites: BC(12/05,5100m),C1(13/05,5750m),xxx(13/05,5750m)
accidents: None
routememo:
  Too much snow and serious avalanche danger. 14 May to BC and decided 17 May impossible to continue under such dangerous snow conditions.


expid: DHA190102
peakid: DHA1
year: 1990
route1: NE Ridge
route2: E Face (to 7800m)
nation: Poland
leaders: Krzysztof Wielicki
sponsor: Polish International Dhaulagiri E Face Exped. to Dhaulagiri
ascent1: 39th,41st
countries: Belgium, W Germany
bcdate: 1990-04-16
smtdate: 1990-04-24
smttime: 1050
termdate: 1990-05-13
accidents: Shleypen slight frostbite; Gniadek back problem
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  ItalianBC(26/03,3700m),BC(16/04,4650m),C1(07/04,5750m),C2(17/04,6800m),Biv(23/04,7000m),Dep(30/04,7450m),xxx; EFace(10/05,7800m),Smt(24/04,11/05)

routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at NE Col
  C2 on NE Ridge
  Biv on NE Ridge
  Depot on NE Ridge.

  For 1st 2 weeks separated out of Italian BC because of porter problems and moved to normal site only when Germans arrived and could use their porters (and now less snow). On 24th Wielicki went to summit from biv tent at 7000m (found from previous expedition) at 4:20 am and got to top 10:50 am and back to biv at 1:20 pm and down to BC same day (2 members were with him as far as biv and back).

  30th April other 2 members made deposit at 7450m and that night tent crushed by snow; had to cut it open to get out and for them climb finished (Schleypen left BC). Gniadek not well now. 

  Baeyens started 9th May up on normal route with Dujmovits of German team, using depot to sleep in enroute and got to top later than him and came down exhausted. 

  9th May 10 pm Wielicki started from NE Col; had to spend 2-3 hrs at 7800m trying to overcome difficult ice section on which kept slipping 1-2m (most difficult problem ever encountered; feared he could not solve it) and reacehd ridge 3:00 pm on 10th, when it started to snow; now decided not to go on up because of snowfall and was exhausted; retreated to depot/C3, surprised to find 2 people there and went down to biv where reached 8:00 pm and slept there; for first time in his career felt someone were with him; believe this is from great stress (not just difficulty) and looking for companionship.


expid: DHA190101
peakid: DHA1
year: 1990
route1: NE Ridge
nation: W Germany
leaders: Michel Dacher
sponsor: International Dhaulagiri Expedition 1990
ascent1: 40th
countries: Austria, Italy, Netherlands, Switzerland
bcdate: 1990-04-13
smtdate: 1990-05-11
smttime: 1100
termdate: 1990-05-13
campsites: BC(13/04,4750m),C1(17/04,5850m),C2(21/04,6650m),C3(09/05,7450m),Smt(11/05)
accidents: Wangel fatal accident
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at 2 snow caves and tents slightly above NE Col
  C2 where NE ridge starts getting steep 
     (1 big snow cave 20m onto E Face and 3 tents)
  C3 at NE Ridge.

  29th April Sirdar Wangel and Walde went from C1 to C2 and Ralf from BC to C2; all reached C2 area; Wangel was ahead, just a few meters from camp, when he set off slab avalanche and was carried 200m with avalanche down E Face; too dangerous to search for him on face and no sign of him. 

  At beginning of climb very good weather but later much snowfall with some avalanche danger & spent lot of time doing nothing. 11th May Ralf and Ingrid Baeyens of Polish team left C4 for top at 5:00 am and Ralf on top at 11:00 am and Ingrid at 1:30 pm. On last part of ascent, from 7500m to 8000m, Dujmovits and Baeyens went onto N Face for safer climb.

  Joos and Dacher were one day behind summiters but Dacher turned back at 7000m on 10th and Joos got to area needing 2 ice axes but had only one and turned back at 7200m (other ice ax and other gear Joos says, should have been available from summiters but they stayed an extra day in C3 and that ruined the plan). Walde too was going up and got to 7200m. 

  Six members and Schleypen from Polish team left BC 6th May having decided climb was over for them (Schleypen had frostbite). Walde wanted to try again but no one else did and Polish team also leaving. Left BC 13th May.


expid: GANC90101
peakid: GANC
year: 1990
route1: SW Ridge-S Face-E Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Gupta Bahadur Rana
sponsor: NPMAF Ganchempo Himal Expedition (Nepal Police)
ascent1: 2nd
bcdate: 1990-04-11
smtdate: 1990-05-09
campsites: BC(11/04,4420m),C1(16/04,5120m),C2(21/04,5670m),C3(08/05,5640m),Smt(09/05)
accidents: None
agency: Nepal Police
routememo:
  BC southwest of peak
  C1 5 hours above BC on ridge north southwest side
  C2 at same ridge beyond a col, before West Summit
  C3 on plateau surrounded by big crevasses.

  Two summits: W Summit and Main Summit; went to W Summit above C2 and then down; from C3 climbed very steep blue ice traversed to E Ridge and then to summit. "Very technical" climb above C3. E Ridge had some very soft snow, some rock and some hard ice and "very difficult climb." Total 3600m rope fixed from 200m below C1 to summit all the way. 

  All the members date of birth of this expedition originally given in BS (Nepali Year)

  NPMAF = Nepal Police Mountaineering & Adventure Foundation.

  1st official ascent. Rumored that British climbers (and possibly others) summited in earlier years.


expid: LANG90101
peakid: LANG
year: 1990
route1: SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Richard (Rick) Wilcox
sponsor: 1990 American Langtang Lirung Expedition
countries: Canada, UK
approach: Langtang Khola->Langtang Village
bcdate: 1990-04-03
smtdate: 1990-04-17
termdate: 1990-04-24
termnote: Abandoned at 5670m due to difficult route, lack of experience
othersmts: Climbed Naya Kanga
campsites: BC(03/04,4330m),C1(13/04,4880m),C2(11/04,5600m),xxx(17/04,5670m)
accidents: None except Kohn's intimidation by high mountains
agency: Himalayan Paradise
routememo:
  BC at Lirung Glacier at shepard's stone huts just halfway up slope to SE ridge
     east of point 5229 SE Ridge.

  Spectacular hourly avalanches off East Face. Established C1 5 April but then went to Ganja La Chuli (Naya Kanga) on which established 2 camps (7th April at 14,000 ft and 8th April at 16,000 ft) and 9th April all members except Kohn and Wedmore to top (Wedmore not yet in Nepal). After this climb 4 left team as planned. 

  Others returned to BC 11th to 12th April. Yardley, Kohn and Kendall went to another small peak because Kendall and Kohn clearly unable to climb Langtang. Yardley then joined Langtang climb while Kendall and Kohn stayed at BC. Chauvin, Doherty, Bill [Yeo] and Pheasant established C2 on SE Ridge on 14th April but did not sleep there. 16th Chauvin and Doherty to sleep in C2 (fixed rock ridge above C2) but down to C1 with view that route too difficult for inexperienced climbers in group and with only 5 days left to attempt Langtang because of client's program, decided to abandon climb. 18th up to C2 to bring it down to C2 and on 20th C1 cleared. Left BC 24th April, arrived Dunche 26th. It's an excellent route for experienced climbers; 6 on this team were qualified to do it but had to look after others. Had unusually deep snow but route safe if stay well away from East Face and its avalanches. Need 4 weeks to climb Langtang Lirung with lot of works needed at 18,000 to 20,000 ft.

  Most of the expedition's members were inexperienced in the Himalaya, and the leadership decided this mountain's southeast ridge was technically too difficult for them. "It's an excellent route for experienced climbers and six on this team of 20 were qualified to do it, but we had to look after the others. We had unusually deep snow, but the route is safe if you stay well away from the East Face," where there were "spectacular" avalanches every hour. It would have taken four weeks to climb the route successfully and safely, Wilcox estimated.


expid: MANA90102
peakid: MANA
year: 1990
route1: NE Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Fausto De Stefani
sponsor: Italian Manaslu Expedition
ascent1: 35th
bcdate: 1990-04-02
smtdate: 1990-04-26
smttime: 1110
accidents: De Leo frostbitten toes & fingers (De Leo's first time in Himalaya)
agency: Trekking International
campsites:
  BC(02/04,3900m),C1(06/04,5000m),C2(07/04,5600m),C3(22/04,6500m),C4(24/04,7200m),Biv(25/04,7600m),Smt(26/04)

routememo:
  BC at low site 
  C2 at Naike Col.

  Made low BC because higher one too dangerous from avalanches; much bad weather. 3 times up to C1 and C2 and driven down by heavy snowfall and avalanche danger. 4th attempt by De Stefani and De Leo to C1 21st April, 22nd to C3 on direct route, not normal route. 25th bivouac at 6700m; 26th start at 5 am, 11:10 De Stefani on top while De Leo had problem at last 150m. Strong wind and De Stefani on top only 10 min; 12:30 return to biv; plan was to descend to C2 but De Leo unable to go below C4 that day and on 27th to BC. De Leo ran out of strength; feet frostbitten when he took off his boots.

  Papa reached C2, 4 other members to C3 only. 1 Tamang above BC to C3.


expid: MANA90103
peakid: MANA
year: 1990
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Dominique Neuenschwander
sponsor: Ski Extreme Expedition to Manaslu
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 1990-04-23
smtdate: 1990-05-02
termdate: 1990-05-05
termnote: Abandoned at 5600m due to heavy snowfall, dangerous avalanche
campsites: BC(23/04,3550m),C1(26/04,4770m),xxx(02/05,5600m)
accidents: None
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC at above Samagaon
  High point at Naike Col site.

  After C2 much snowfall and avalanches; big avalanche "brushed" C2, very dangerous. Impossible to continue in new fresh snow every day and dangerous avalanching. Did not actually sleep in C2 but in C1 and next day up to C2 to bring down C2 and after that continous bad weather. Left BC 5 May. 

  Americans had fatal avalanche, Italians frozen feet.


expid: MANA90101
peakid: MANA
year: 1990
route1: NE Face
nation: USA
leaders: Donald Goodman
sponsor: 1990 American Manaslu Expedition
countries: Canada
approach: Gorkha->Buri Gandaki->Samagaon
bcdate: 1990-03-15
smtdate: 1990-03-27
termdate: 1990-03-28
termnote: Abandoned at 5200m due to fatal avalanche
campsites: BC(15/03,4200m),C1(21/03,5000m),xxx(27/03,5200m)
accidents: 3 killed in avalanche
agency: Jai Himal Trekking
routememo:
  BC higher normal site
  C1 on medial moraine of Manaslu Glacier.

  After 21 March, when 5 people in C1, snowed from evening of 21st till evening of 25th when diminished but never really cleared. C1 having problem keeping camp together with 2m of snow. On 26th improved weather let BC people to plan to try to go up and those in C1 to make route to C2 with BC people to resupply C1 food. But 27th in fact weather closed in again and unable to make route to C2 and team in C1 return to BC. 7:30 am BC team left for C1 and at 8:45 am C1 group left for BC. At about 9:00 am a slab broke off above C1 party when C1 team at 4700m - climax slab which broke down night to dirt - 100m long. At 9:45 am Zangbu Sherpa stumbled down from C1 and reported avalanche with people buried by avalanche (all members had avalanche beacons). Stockmyer also not buried but saw Schertz get buried but very deep (1-1/2m) dense snow and took 20 mins to uncover him but already dead; Zangbu dug himself out (buried to neck); Stockmyer went for Jackson and others from BC joined in digging her out; she equally deeply buried for 1 hr, found dead. Nima Wangchu found where Zangbu had been and he also dead. Evacuated bodies to old C1. 28th Haigh and Goodman left immediately to KTM with others to remove bodies for cremation. Haigh and Goodman hope to leave KTM immediately with "wife" of another member in KTM (she had been trekking) to await return of rest of team. Haigh and Goodman arrived KTM 4th; no word yet from the others.

  15 April: Trekking agent says all other survivors returned to KTM in good health.


expid: AMAD90101
peakid: AMAD
year: 1990
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Ray Delaney
sponsor: Perpetual Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 73rd,74th
countries: Ireland
approach: Jiri->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1990-03-13
smtdate: 1990-04-04
smttime: 1800
othersmts: Island Peak
campsites: BC(13/03,4600m),C1(15/03,5850m),C2(20/03,6000m),Smt(04,12/04)
accidents: Murphy frostbitten toes & Phillips frostnip; Durran failed to acclimatize
agency: Rover Treks
routememo:
  BC near Mingbo
  C1 at start of SW Ridge (traditional site)
  C2 at crest of Yellow Tower (traditional site).

  Been to BC earlier than 13th March, then went to Island Peak which only Haszko failed to climb. Huge amount of fixed ropes from many years ago as well as recent climbs. 4th April summiters had 7 days climb: 5 up and 2 down: had bad cloudy weather and others saw them towards upper slopes and then disappeared and thought to be dead where as had climbed to top half hour before dark and descended that night to a bivouac in topmost serac band at 20,000 ft. 

  2nd summit party took 6 days to climb with only 1 day in descent with biv in natural ice cave at start of mushroom ridge. Last biv reached at noon, left at 3:30 am next day and on top 1:30 pm.

  Very slow because Simpson had hurt his foot 2 days before leaving England, had toothache and sciatica. More difficult climb than Delaney had expected: worrying about route: "descent horrendous abseiling down those rocks."


expid: CHOY90102
peakid: CHOY
year: 1990
route1: N Buttress (to 6800m)
route2: W Ridge-W Face
nation: Australia
leaders: Rick White
sponsor: Australian Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent2: 68th
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1990-04-15
smtdate: 1990-05-11
smttime: 0905
termdate: 1990-05-15
campsites: BC(15/04,5700m),C1A(21/04,6400m),C1B(09/05,6400m),C2(10/05,7100m),Smt11/05)
accidents: Groom stomach ulcer just after Apr 22; Dignan altitude problem
agency: Nima
routememo:
  BC  at same site as top and Chamoux teams
  1st C1 at North Col for North Buttress attempt
  2nd C1 at normal route
  C2  at normal route.

  Abandoned N Pillar route because of danger followed by storms; set off on alpine-style ascent of standard route on 9th May. Weight loss fatigue and sickness saw only Groom and Dignan arrive at 2nd bivouac at 7100m. On 11 May McDowell and Dignan set off at 3:00 am for summit. McDowell arrived at summit at 9:05 am - an amazing solo climb from situation of the biv. Dignan suffering fatigue refused to turn back until finally at around 4:00 pm he turned back at over 8100m just short of summit and made it back to biv at 7:00 pm in "dark" (fax report by Rick White).

  Groom: in the 2 weeks after BC arrived, had to look at W Buttress and Groom 22 April reached 6000m and decided rock fall too dangerous and back to BC where other 3 waiting. They went to have look for themselves but not above C1 because of heavy snowfall and strong winds (reached C1 on 1 May and down to BC 2 May). Decided on "alpine" ascent of normal route and waited for good weather. 9th May all 5 men to C1. 10th set out for C2 and Rick White and McDowell turned back at 6500m tired and uninterested and Ball turned back at 6840m with headache. Groom and Dignan reached 7100m, where pitched another 3:00 am on 11th and Groom and Dignan went for to carrying nothing and Groom in perfect weather and went past false summit. Dignan struggled with fatigue and altitude and gave up at 8100m. Groom got to C2 at noon, waited for Dignan who arrived and collapsed at 7:00 pm and both spent night. Dignan very tired during descent but altitude problem gave and both back in BC 12th. Everyone left BC 15 May.


expid: CHOY90103
peakid: CHOY
year: 1990
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: France
leaders: Benoit Chamoux
sponsor: L'Esprit d'Equipe to Cho Oyu and Xixabangma
countries: Czechoslovakia, Italy, Netherlands, UK
bcdate: 1990-04-04
smtdate: 1990-04-30
termdate: 1990-05-07
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m (claimed success)
othersmts: Climbed Xixabangma (central summit)
campsites: LowBC(04/04,4800m),HighBC(19/04,5700m),C1(21/04,6500m),C2(25/04,7300m),xxx(8100m,30/04)
accidents: 3 including Chamoux had edema 5-16 April & used pressure bag
agency: Trekking International
routememo:
  Did not go to N Ridge because of time lost through illness and ridge very rocky and icy. So with priority to reach 2 summits, went to normal route to do climb. Left low BC 7 May.


  Yves Detry - 29 Oct 1996 

  Yves Detry confirmed that none of summit party on 30 April actually reached highest point - reached 8000-8100m and turned back.


  Liz Hawley - 12 Nov 1996

  After having heard that none of this team actually reached the summit, I checked two weeks ago with one of them, Yves Detry, when he was here on another climb, and he confirmed that all of seven (Chamoux, Detry, Hinkes, Rakoncaj, Rossi, Royer and Valet) turned back on 30 April 1990 after having reached 8000-8100m but without having gained the true summit. I am deleting them from my list of summiters.


  30 Aug 1997 - Inaki Ochoa (Spanish Lhotse leader)

  Chamoux told Ochoa that his party did not reach Cho Oyu's highest point on 30 April 1990 - said they got to plateau it was very misty. They moved around a bit, could see little. (Juanito Oyarzabal says Chamoux's footprints on Makalu in 1995 stopped at pyramid, did not continue to summit; there are doubts about Chamoux's Broad Peak summit claim and others).


  Hinkes - 3 June 1999

  Hinkes is confident that he reached summit, but saw nothing on top and could see only few yards ahead in mist so saw nothing from top. In summit area he continued alone for one hour after reaching summit plateau; he wandered around for a while, then went down and eventually bumped into the others. He can make money guiding Cho Oyu, so will do so and be sure to get to highest point.


  John Cleare - 16 Feb 2000

  We note that you have Alan Hinkes marked down as a disputed on Cho Oyu. As you're probably aware its common knowledge that he only reached the edge of the plateau, but there seems to be a conspiracy of silence because of his "race" to complete the 14. We tend to feel that we should just leave him off the list.


  Inaki Ochoa - 24 March 2005

  Chamoux told Ochoa that Hinkes did not reach the summit (reaffirmation of 1997 statement).


  Yves Detry - 26 Jan 2006 (email to Richard Salisbury)

  CHO OYU - 30th April 1990 

  When the 7 climbers have finished to climb the NNW Face, we were in the clouds. We have walked a long moment until arriving at the summit flat area and we have walked again. Everybody was at sight of the other. We, all the ESPRIT D'EQUIPE, decided to stop, estimating we were on top. It was difficult to know exactly where we were because of the fog on this big and flat area. At this time, I did the picture of the seven climbers, fixing my camera on the top of my ice axe, which is a "Team's exploit". I remember, when I came back to KTM and talked to Miss Hawley, telling her the last part of the climb as I write just before. Miss Hawley has decided we were not on top, maybe we were on top, maybe not exactly, have we walked enough? I am a climber and a guide with my clear conscience, I just want to explain and transmit my experience. I can talk about this ascent until the summit. Nevertheless if you can describe the last part of the CHO OYU's ascent, I will read that with serenity. Twelve days after, on the 12th of May, the same team was on top of XIXAPANGMA West Summit and I did the picture of the six other climbers because the summit was to sharp and I said "L'ESPRIT D'EQUIPE is to take the picture without to be on !!!".

  I hope my text will help you. Is it a problem to be on the summiters's list or not?
   
  All my best regards.
   
  Yves DETRY


expid: CHOY90104
peakid: CHOY
year: 1990
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: W Germany
leaders: Guenther Haerter
sponsor: DAV Summit Club Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 69th
countries: Austria, Italy
bcdate: 1990-05-05
smtdate: 1990-05-26
accidents: Tschofen twice had cerebral edema (only serious problem)
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
campsites:
  BC(05/05,4900m),ABC(06/05,5400m),C1(09/05,5800m),C2A(12/05,6500m),C2B(24/05,6700m),C3(18/05,7100m),Smt(26/05)

routememo:
  C1 at 1 hour below Tichy's camp
  C2 on ridge.

  Moved C2 away from ridge after big wind blew away 4 tents there (& if anyone had been in a tent, member would have been blown away too). 26 May summiters on top within one hour's time but not all on top together; only 50m fixed rope total on route: not difficult route. 2 members left early for personal reasons: Deiser & Schefzic. 2 members stayed in BC only because of disinterest & age: Kellner & Sontheimer.

  20th May 1995: Ralf Dujmovits, leader of Spring 1995 Cho Oyu expedition was told by Porsche on 4 Feb 95 that the summit party of 19 May 1990 did not reach summit; they got to rocks just below summit plateau at 8100m & then turned back because there was a lot of snow and could not see crevasses known to be there.

  24 Sept 1996 - Sigi Hupfauer believe the party on the 19th of May did not reach the highest point "and for me this is not the summit" - 1/2 hour is not long enough to have gotten to it (he read Porsche's reply).


  Liz Hawley - 12 Nov 1996

  According to Haerter in June 1900, this expedition sent two parties to the top, but I heard this spring (Spring 1996) that in fact the first party did not go all the way, and this September one of the members of the second party, Sigi Hupfauer, whom I have know for years, confirmed that the first group did not go to the highest point; a member of the first party admitted this earlier this year to another German I know. So I am deleting Haerter's five alleged summiters of 19 May, 1990, from my list. (But keeping the party on 26 May.)


expid: PUMO90102
peakid: PUMO
year: 1990
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Norway
leaders: Per (Gunnar) Olsen
sponsor: Norwegian Pumori Expedition
bcdate: 1990-03-23
smtdate: 1990-04-05
termdate: 1990-04-08
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to ill health
campsites: BC1(23/03),BC2(02/04,5300m),xxx(05/04,6000m)
accidents: None
agency: Blue Diamond
routememo:
  BC at Gorak Shep
  BC at small lake west of Kalapattar
  High point at SW Ridge.

  Brevik left party 1 April because already "uncomfortable" at altitude of 1st BC and no reason to stay. From 2nd BC, 2 members carried loads for C1 and 1 reached very nearly to its site. Climbed along east side of ridge beyond Pt 5628 and finally on this ridge. Ljoen turned back at 5700m because of altitude and Rosvoll at 6000m because very tired. Olsen was there in 2nd BC with problems of altitude, head cold and stomach trouble. All 3 stayed in BC. 

  Rosvoll waited to try more climbing but other 2 did not and would not let him climb alone, so climb abandoned 8th April. Route climbed was not difficult except for loose stones, but above 6000m would be difficult knife-edge snow ridge with steep sides to point 6186m.


expid: PUMO90103
peakid: PUMO
year: 1990
route1: SE Ridge-E Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Isao Niizuma
sponsor: TBS Film Team Pumori Expedition 1990
countries: France
bcdate: 1990-04-25
smtdate: 1990-05-08
termdate: 1990-05-09
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to expedition declared finished by leader in KTM
campsites: LowBC(25/04,5300m),HighBC(27/04,5700m),C1(06/05,6150m),xxx(08/05,6700m)
accidents: Nothing serious; Hatano who didn't feel well from altitude used 1 bottle of oxygen at high BC only
agency: Trans Himalayan Trekking (THT)
routememo:
  BC  towards SE corner of big lake
  ABC at bottom of ridge pillar in southeast side (pillar that ends at snow plateau)
  C1  at top of this ridge
  High point at East Ridge.

  Many crevasses between C1 and C2 and around C2. Yanagihara stayed in BC with balloon communications. C1 slow to make because French had a lot equipment for skiing and parapente. Tardivel tried to go top but no cooperation from Sherpa, so no one to take his photograph on summit, which was very important for a professional. Tardivel and Robert planned to go up on 11th May after Tardivel had 2 day's rest at BC, but now balloon over Everest had crashed in Tibet on 9th. Balloon photography was main aim of expedition and leader in KTM ordered team to leave mtn. Tardivel's mind was entirely on his skies and parapente and did not cooperate about balloon filming.

  Iwa-to-Yuki Annual claims that Catherine Tardivel (31) was part of the team as a guide.


expid: PUMO90101
peakid: PUMO
year: 1990
route1: SE Ridge-E Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yoshikuni Mori
sponsor: Tokushima University Pumori Expedition 1990
bcdate: 1990-03-19
smtdate: 1990-03-28
termdate: 1990-04-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to fatal accident
campsites: BC(19/03,5300m),ABC(21/03,5800m),C1(25/03,6100m),xxx(28/03,6600m)
accidents: Fatal crevasse fall
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC  towards SE corner of big lake
  ABC at bottom of ridge pillar on SE side (pillar that ends at snow plateau)
  C2  at top of this ridge
  High point at East Ridge.

  Route completed to C2 at 6600m on 28th March by Sherpas while only Mori in C1, Kato in BC, Kitazawa going up from BC to ABC and Matsuda up from ABC to C1. On 28th morning 8 am on radio Mori coming down that day to BC; at 12:50 pm Nima Temba now in C1, Mori's equipment in tent but no Mori. Matsuda going up from ABC to C1 was asked by BC to investigate. Matsuda arrived C1 1:40 pm and decided to climb into crevasse and found Mori 170m down in crevasse dead, no body pulse; body very cold; could not remove, very tightly jammed. Climb finished and next day brought down C1. Body left in crevasse (dangerous to descend in crevasse). Team left BC 1 April.


expid: PUMO90104
peakid: PUMO
year: 1990
route1: SE Spur-Lingtren Col-E Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Stefano Agostoni
sponsor: Italian Pumori Expedition
bcdate: 1990-04-29
smtdate: 1990-05-17
termdate: 1990-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6375m due to bad weather, members exhausted, and lack of time
campsites: BC(29/04,5350m),ABC(01/05,5520m),C1(13/05,6150m),Biv(16/05,6350m),xxx(17/05,6375m)
accidents: None
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  below smaller of 2 lakes on NGS Map
  ABC at huge stone at top of moraine
  C1  just above Lingtren Pass on East Ridge
  Biv on East Ridge.

  From ABC climbed rock spur followed by Lenser in 1962 to Lingtren La on fixed ropes; snowy weather. From C1 3 members climbed alpine-style on ridge, which was quite difficult in unstable snow, many cornices & some rock pitches. Made biv this night of 16th May. 17th hoping perhaps to go to top, are likely to have a 2nd biv. Wind changed from north to now out of south with clouds, and then snowfall from south. No fixed rope here so retreated to C1 in very little visuability Slept in C1. 18th more bad weather so down to ABC removing fixed rope in descent and 19th all in BC. Climb now finished: Tired, bad weather and time running out. 4 members had left BC about 16th May because of fixed departure date from Nepal.

  Route farther right than usual route; much safer but longer; on this route Italians had no snow avalanches or falling seracs as usual route.


expid: GYAC90101
peakid: GYAC
year: 1990
route1: W Face
nation: UK
leaders: Roger Antolik
sponsor: British Army 1990 Gyachung Kang Expedition
countries: Nepal
bcdate: 1990-04-24
smtdate: 1990-05-17
termdate: 1990-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to bad snow conditions and lack of time
campsites: BC(24/04,5120m),C1(25/04,5200m),C2(29/04,5750m),C3A(11/05,6200m),C3B(13/05,6380m),xxx(17/05,7100m)
agency: Rover Treks
routememo:
  BC at west bank of Lungsampa Glacier east of Gyazumpa
  C1 at Ngozumba Glacier in bank of ENE of point 5720m on Schneider map
  C2 at glacier above and north of point 5695m
  C3 in crevasse on open glacier below U
  High point at lower part of West Face.

  Lost lot of rope gear and trying to force route through first icefall, so went up eastern side of rock buttress on loose scree with hard bedrock and fixed these; then 200 ft steep sort of chimney to grassy meadow and snow gully just to east of Pt 5695m and traversed up on to glacier where put C2. Then encountered 5 km-wide second icefall constantly having seracs falling. 29th April to 10th May walked searching for route through second icefall acceptably safe and had people missed by 50m by massive falls.

  10th May 6 men went up from C2 to rock buttress-island just east of Pt 6515 and crossed this and dumped gear there for C3 which was established where wanted to put up a new route. 15th may onto 60 degrees ice just above bergschrund (rotten ice) trying to put camp at about 7400m on W Face. Night of 17th May 4 days of snowfall and generally bad weather with tremendous avalanching in area - trails wiped out, fixed ropes covered; temperature now rose considerably and snow became very sticky. 21st May 5 men up from C3 planning to go to high point of fixed ropes already there at 7100m, established C4 at 7300-7400m and 2 for top from there, but 5 men early in morning were avalanched at bottom of bergschrund at 6850m. One man got completely buried but dug out by Kenny who was on same ropes; then down to C3. Other 3 tried to reorganize on this slab avalanche they been "absorbed into" but they too down to C3 later same day. Now with unstable weather, avalanche danger and manpower scattered, decided to abandon climb.

  SW Ridge too dangerously corniced to attempt.

  Antolik wants to return to Gyachung Kang and its W Face.


  BC established on 24th April

  After the excitement of KTM and the problems of our hasty departure from the troubles here we are now safely set up in the BC, just a few miles from the mountain. We arrived here together, having met up with Major Kit Spencer, his two Gurkha soldiers, Sarah Arathoon and Mick Kenny at Namche Bazar on the morning of Sunday 22nd April. We saved two days on the walk in from KTM by extending the usual trekking legs and by making use of the excellent weather Nepal is currently enjoying. Further time was made up by reaching BC, from Namche in 2 days instead of 5, the cost of this inevitably was a day of sore heads as we struggled to acclimatise. Fortunately the pain did not last long, except for the leader who was involved in a clinical trial for Boots Pharmaceuticals and obviously drew a very short straw in the selection of painkillers.

  Base Camp is sited at 5120m on the moraine above the junction of the Lungsampa and Ngozumba Glaciers. We have spectacular views of Cho Oyu which is 8 kms to the north but can only see the top 800 feet of Gyachung Kang which is hidden by a ridge coming down from Cho Oyu.

  Work on the 25th centred on organising our stores and food and on making BC as comfortable as possible for our month-long stay. Kit Spencer, Sarkey (our Sirdar) and Lalit reconnoitered the route from BC across the Lungsampa Glacier and along the moraines on the north side of the Ngozumpa Glacier to find a safe way to the first icefall which guards the route to Gyachung Kang. On the 26th we all ferried our first loads along this route. Glacier travel is always tortuous and although the distance from BC to the first icefall is less than 6 kms it took us 3-1/2 hours to comlete the journey. We carried loads of between 20 and 25 kgs and have established a temporary camp at the foot of the 600m high wall of rock and ice. Last night Andy Hughes and Greg Hill stayed at the camp and today are beginning to find a route through the crazy mass of towering rock and ice blocks. The route will then be marked using fixed ropes so we can carry equipment and food further up the mountain to the base of the second icefall and ultimately to the base of the southwest ridge. I hope that C1 will be established tomorrow and in preparation for this Dave Orange and Chris Barnes are joining Andy and Greg this afternoon to help them secure the route. The rest of the team are carrying more loads to the temporary camp.

  The fine weather enjoyed on the trek has changed since our arrival and a pattern of fine, sunny mornings to about 11 am followed by wind and light snow showers in the afternoons and evenings seems to be the norm. Temperatures during the day vary between O degrees C and 28 degrees C and at night fall to -10 degrees C.

  Everyone on the team is well and working hard. The food is good and our Nepalese staff are supporting us well - long may it last.


expid: EVER83402
peakid: EVER
year: 1983
route1: N Face (Hornbein Couloir)
nation: Japan
leaders: Michiko Takahashi
sponsor: Kamoshika Dojin Everest N Face Winter 1983-84
bcdate: 1983-10-21
smtdate: 1983-12-09
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to high winds
campsites: BC(21/10,5620m),C1(26/10,6170m),C2(05/11,6900m),C3(17/11,7700m),xxx(09/12,8100m)
accidents: 3 members and 1 Chinese member frostbitten
agency: Express
routememo:
  BC at Rongbuk
  C1 at Central Rongbuk Glacier.

  Yasuhira Saito (Gaurishankar) - 4 Aug 1984

  Saito was member of expedition. Climb abandoned at bottom of Hornbein Couloir. No place for tent in winds and rock fall danger.

  Very cold very strong winds, 3 Japanese and 1 Chinese frostbitten but none very serious. When team arrived at BC mountain was white, but slowly became blacker and blacker.

  Mrs Takahashi returns to attempt in winter 1985-86 (postponed from this winter).

  Team used 13 Chinese "assistants" above BC.

  Michiko Takahashi is also known by her maiden name, Michiko Imai, leader 1979 autumn Dhaulagiri II-III-IV-V traverse.


expid: EVER85302
peakid: EVER
year: 1985
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
route2: N Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Tsuneo Hasegawa
sponsor: Japanese Everest N Col Autumn 1985 Expedition
bcdate: 1985-08-09
smtdate: 1985-09-09
termdate: 1985-10-04
termnote: Abandoned at 8200m due to bad weather, member's death and lack of time
accidents: Shinichi Ishii buried and killed by avalanche which he started at about 6900m
campsites:
  BC(09/08,5150m),C1(21/08,5500m),C2(22/08,6020m),C3.ABC(23/08,6500m),C4(02/09,7000m),C5(09/09,8200m),xxx(09/09,8200m)

routememo:
  Planned solo ascent on N Face: by leader Tsuneo Hasegawa after others reached top via N Col-N Ridge and provided support for Hasegawa's descent.

  Shinichi Ishii killed by avalanche which he started at about 6900m and which buried him.


  Shambu Tamang, Spanish-Nepal Everest - 28 Sept 85

  Japanese team this autumn were attempting Everest by two routes simultaneously:
  N Face (Australian 1984) and N Col-NE Ridge.


  Letter from Tsunemichi Ikeda, Editor in Chief - Nov 11, 1985

  It was the 11-member party, led by Tsuneo Hasegawa, to make a dual ascent by North Face and NE Ridge. The leader Hasegawa intended a solo on N Face while the others siege NE Ridge. The latter party was expected to support the leader's descent from the summit. They made a rapid progress and made C5 at 7750m and ropes were fixed up to 8200m by Sept 10th. But on 17th, Shinichi Ishii (37), a photographer and a climber of the NE Ridge party avalanched when he was descending from North Col. His body could not be found. The whole plan was abandoned by the accident and bad weathers.


expid: EVER85301
peakid: EVER
year: 1985
route1: W Ridge-N Arete-N Face (to 7420m)
route2: N Face (left of Great Couloir) (to 7315m)
route3: N Face-N Ridge (to 7315m)
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Austin Brookes
sponsor: New Zealand-Australian Everest - Autumn 1985
countries: Australia, UK
approach: from Lhasa by road to BC
bcdate: 1985-08-05
smtdate: 1985-09-23
termdate: 1985-10-09
termnote: Abandoned at 7315m due to strong winds
campsites:
  BC(05-06/08,5250m),ABC(15-16/08,5821m),C1(20/08,6248m); W-Ridge.C2(03,05/09,6700m),C3(08/09,6900m)xxx(10/09,7240m); N-Face-xxx(23/09,7315m) (see route notes)

routememo:
  BC  closest to snout of glacier (Central Main Rongbuk)
  ABC at Central Rongbuk near small lake
  C1  opposite Lho La at northern cwm
  C2  right of arete
  C3  at snow slope above arete
  High point on North Face.

  Attemped 3 routes from the north. First tried to reach West Ridge via a north arete, then a line on North Face left of Great Couloir, and finally on North Face farther left again to North Ridge.  

  Attempt on first route (W Ridge via N arete), abandoned because of severe avalanching, which swept gear away.

  1st route: BC(05/08,5250m),ABC(15/08,5820m),C1(20/08,6250m),C1.8(6780m),C2(03/09,6700m),
    C3(08/09,6900m),xxx(10/09,7240m)

  Second route (N Face left of Great Couloir) also abandoned after avalanching, and most members by now had stopped climbing.  

  2nd route: BC(05/08,5250m),ABC(15/08,5820m),C1(20/08,6250m),C2(20/09,6850m),
    C3(22/09,7240m),xxx(23/09,7315m)  

  On third route (N Face to N Ridge), very brief attempt abandoned with no net altitude gain achieved; climbers pinned down in C3 for three nights by strong winds, and they retreated via N Col route established by Japanese team.   

  3rd route: BC(05/08,5250m),ABC(15/08,5820m),C1(20/08,6250m),C2(20/09,6850m),
    C3(06/10,7315m),xxx(06/10,7315m) 

  From C1 traversed by ski to base of arrete, dump made there and camp called C1.8 established on shelf by Rheinberger and Bruce at 22,250 ft with fixed rope to it - tent at C1.8, too dangerous for permanent camp. True C2 (slightly lower than C1.8) in a crevasse. Until now early Sept unsettled weather with frequent snowfall. Night that C2 was established severe avalanche down arrete went over C2 (taking a bit of equipment) and C1.8 completely taken away. Huge slab avalanche buried 2 members in snow cave of C3 but were dug out. This caused complete change of plans because of avalanche danger from constant avalanche activity. 

  Abandoned route and went for N Face left of Great C Couloir. To 20 Sept made new C2 high in North Cwm at 22,500 ft and C3 at 23,750 ft on N Face occupied about 22 Sept by Farmer, Bruce, Andrews and Van Noorden. Weather again bad and Andrews developing edema, set off an avalanche in descent while Bruce infected liver. Andrews severe frostbite and evacuated to NZ. Had now lost 5 tents and 5 sleeping bags and 2 members at this time and Allen bad tooth. Doctor busy. 2 more decided to leave, Brooks bad stomach = 7 left, and then 2 more left, so by Oct 6 only 5 willing and able to have another go and yaks due Oct 12.
   
  On 6 Oct climbed face left of previous route to 24,000 ft where put 2 tents - bad weather meant 3 nights there in high winds. 9 Oct traversed left to N Ridge and down to N Col where met Japanese N Col route. Descended from Col into East Rongbuk Glacier to Japanese C3 where spent night of 9 Oct. On 10th on down to BC. Reinberger, Farmer, Norman, Anderson and Van Noorden were these remaining 5 climbers. Left BC 12 Oct and back to Lhasa and on eastward.

  Maximum altitudes:  
    Route 1 - 23,750 ft crest of W Ridge above C3 on top of shoulder triggered
              huge slab avalanche on about 10 Sept
    Route 2 - 24,000 ft by members who had established C3 on about 23 Sept 
    Route 3 - 24,000 ft- 6 Oct

  Had small supply of oxygen (7 cylinders) for possible summit bid that never got higher than C1.

  14 members: Austin Brooks, leader; Bruce Farmers, deputy leader
  Michael Rheinberger and Peter Allen, Australians
  Dick Price, doctor
  Stephen Bruce, Hugh Van Noorden, Graeme Dingle, Mike Andrews, Michael Perry, Warwick Anderson, Rob Blackbourne, Ross Cullen and Shaun Norman


  Gabites (NZ Ama Dablam) - 12 Nov 85

  W Ridge: got to top of shoulder and 3 camps avalanched. Mike Perry and Warick Anderson were digging snow cave and got buried - mid-to-late Sept.

  N Face to N Col and Australian route. Reached C3 about 23,000 ft. Mike Andrews got sick and avalanche conditions led them to give this up but went on up to Col and thence to N Ridge. Got to 24,000 ft, ran out of time and energy and bad snow conditions and abandoned entire climb 8 Oct.


  US visitor to NZ Everest BC - 3 Oct 85

  NZ Everest were avalanched off W Shoulder sometime between 5 and 10 Sept. No one injured but 2 members had to be dug out. Then shifted route to N Face east of of Hornbein Couloir and planned summit bid for about 26 Sept.


  New Zealand Everest, Autumn 1985

  Graeme Dingle
  Dick Price
  Shaun Norman
  Total 12 climbers and 1 BC mgr
  Left NZ late July
  By early Sept were at C2 on West Shoulder
  Route up Hornbein from West Shoulder
  Took oxygen with them to China and "masses of fixed rope"


  Shambu Tamang, Spanish-Nepal Everest North Col-North Face exped - 28 Sept 85

  NZ Everest expedition was attempting West Shoulder from North while Tamang's team were climbing - were an autumn expedition.

accidents:
  Andrews altitude sickness and severely frostbitten fingers; Bruce liver infection; Allen infected tooth


expid: EVER85403
peakid: EVER
year: 1985
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Nam Sang-Tae
sponsor: 1985-86 Korea University Winter Everest Expedition
bcdate: 1985-12-02
smtdate: 1985-12-22
termdate: 1986-02-15
termnote: Abandoned at 8500m due to bad weather and lack of oxygen
campsites: BC(02/12,5400m),C1(05/12,6100m),C2(07/12,6450m),C3(15/12,7400m),C4(20/12,8000m),xxx(22/12,8500m)
accidents: None except slight frostbite
routememo:
  BC at foot of Khumbu Icefall
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 on Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 above South Col
  High point at SE Ridge.

  21 Dec summit party of Kim Jong-Ho, Park Dong-Seok and Ang Rita reached 8300m; Park used Italian oxygen mask which froze in -50 degree C temp, so they gave up and returned to C4. Ang Rita took no oxygen and Kim had not yet begun using his. 

  The next day 22 Dec Ang Rita descended to C2 while Kim Jong-Ho and Park Dong-Seok up again without oxygen use, but carrying 1 bottle each for use above South Summit. They moved slowly and at 8500m only at 3:00 pm after 9 hours climbing and gave up and back to C4 and to C2 23 Dec. 

  24 Dec Kim and Ang Rita (to C4 on 23 Dec) planned summit bid, but wind too strong and did not leave C4. 25 Dec they went down to C2. All members to BC. 

  Up again 28 Dec, but wind prevented reaching C3. 28 Dec-8 Jan stayed C2 but daily wind prevented climbing, some days even leaving tents except Kim up to C4 on 6 Jan, found tent broken and down same day. 7 Jan Park to C4 to deposit new tent but strong wind and nose and ears slightly frostbitten. All to BC 9 Jan and 5 climbing members to Namche, 2 in BC with Sherpas to BC 19 Jan but Icefall required 6 days repair. Reached C2 31 Jan, 10 days stayed but wind too strong although 8 Feb Kim Jong-Ho and Park Sung-Woo to C3 in tent for 7 days and down to BC 15 Feb. 

  Bad weather throughout Jan and Feb defeated other summit bids.

  Found body of one Indian climber frozen to ice above C2, below Lhotse face.


  Oh (Tawache leader) - 18 Jan 86

  Korean South Col Everest:

  Oh came back to KTM 16 Jan. Met South Col Everest members in Namche and leader Kim is now in KTM. Climbing leader and one other Korean member are at BC, Sherpas have gone to their homes except for 1 or 2 at BC. Expedition plans one more summit attempt.


  Tourism - 26 Dec 85

  Everest Korean Univ.
  C3 - 15 Dec - 7450m
  C4 - 20 Dec - 7950m

  Kim Jong-Ho and Ang Rita tried for summit 21 Dec but turned back at 8350m because of oxygen problem. Expedition continues.


  Kim Ki-Heyg (West Ridge leader) - 24 Dec 85

  Everest South Col:

  By time Kim left BC on 14 Dec, South Col team had made C3 but had 2 accidents: 1 Sherpa fell into crevasse and injured head, fire in Indian tent at C2 destroyed 2 Sherpas gear. Should be making C4 about now.


expid: EVER85402
peakid: EVER
year: 1985
route1: Lho La-W Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Ki-Heyg
sponsor: 1985-86 Korean Winter Everest Expedition
bcdate: 1985-11-24
smtdate: 1985-12-08
termdate: 1985-12-12
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to wind, exhaustion and 1 member sick
campsites: BC(24/11,5300m),C1(03/12,6050m),C2(06/12,6450m),xxx(08,10/12,7100m)
accidents: Ahn became very sick (stomach trouble); no other serious problems
routememo:
  BC at usual site
  C1 at Lho La west end
  C2 on north side of West Shoulder
  High point at C3 site.

  Very warm weather and all blue ice, very difficult digging snow hole at C1. Route made to C3 site at 7100m, only 3 hrs from C2 but C3 tents never pitched because winds broke C2 tents 3 times and once carried empty tent to Tibet; had only 2 Sherpas. Another problem was late arrival walkie-talkies (arrived BC 6th Dec). Total 12 tents broken at C1 and C2. Members could rest only 1 day because Sherpas not carrying.


expid: EVER85404
peakid: EVER
year: 1985
route1: SW Face (Bonington rte)
nation: S Korea
leaders: Park Young-Bae
sponsor: 1985-86 Korean Winter Everest SW Face Expedition
bcdate: 1985-12-11
smtdate: 1986-01-13
termdate: 1986-01-16
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to lack of supplies and men exhausted
campsites: BC(11/12,5250m),C1(15/12,6115m),C2(25/12,6515m),C3(07/01,7010m),C4(14/01,7225m),xxx(13,15/01,7700m)
achievment: 1st winter attempt on face
routememo:
  BC at usual site 
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Cwm (after many loads brought up)
  C3 on SW Face (at noly place there in for one tent)
  C4 on SW Face (same place as 1975 autumn)
  High point at C5 site.

  At end of climb only Kim and Um left. At C2 on 15th night one tent blown 50m and all gear destroyed there. 2 men not properly clothed, huddled together, in morning found boots and other protective materials and "escaped" down to BC safely; climbing finished. On 15 Jan Kim and Um to the highest point at 7700m; above this needed rock equipment they did not have with them for difficult rock above and winds strong so descended without establishing C5. By now others down with injured Sherpa and many tents broken, food depleted and not all members able to go to high altitude. By 16 Jan all in BC except Kim and Um. Very little snow on face. Studied Bonington's book to learn camp sites.

  1 Sherpa broke leg 15 Jan and members down with him. Had been hit by falling stone while descending from C3. Much falling stone, some carried sideways by wind. No other problems.

  Expedition climbed late because sea freight arrived late. Should have started sooner, had more equipment and food, and 1 or 2 more Sherpas even when not having to establish Icefall route.


  Kim Ki-Heyg (W Ridge leader) - 24 Dec 85

  Kim met SW Face leader at Gorak Shep on 14 Dec. Only 3 members at BC by then and they had only few loads there.

accidents:
  1 Sherpa broke leg & members down with him had been hit by falling stone while descending from C3; much falling stone, some carried sideways by wind; no other problems


expid: EVER85401
peakid: EVER
year: 1985
route1: N Face (Hornbein Couloir)
nation: Japan
leaders: Michiko Takahashi
sponsor: Japanese Everest N Face Winter 1985
bcdate: 1985-10-25
smtdate: 1985-12-15
termdate: 1985-12-17
termnote: Abandoned at 8450m due to winds-very cold on sunless N Face
campsites:
  TempBC(20/10,5500m),BC(25/10,5900m),C1(30/10-01/11,6200m),C2(15/11,6700m),C3(lateNov,7400m),C4(earlyDec,8000m),C5(10/12,8200m),xxx(15/12,8450m)

routememo:
  TBC at road head
  BC at Rongbuk Glacier (last stop for yaks)
  C1 at beginning of North Face
  C2 on North Face
  C3 on North Face
  C4 at bottom of Hornbein Couloir
  C5 in Hornbein (slept by 2 or 3 Japanese only)

  C1 and C2 very steep ice climbing and all fixed with rope; C2 to C3 not so steep, mixed rock and snow. C3 to C4 little steeper, lower part rock, higher part mostly snow. Avalanche destroyed C4 gear dump (no one slept there) in late Nov. All equipment transported to site but when next set of Sherpas arrived there soon after found all carried away by avalanche down Hornbein Couloir and some of it found near C1. Another supply carried up and slept in by almost all climbing Japanese and by 5 Sherpas. Then winds came up. Fixed 12 ropes up Hornbein and had depot camp in Hornbein. More progress upwards but winds worse and worse.

  Leader: Mrs Michiko Takahashi; climbing leader Okura; Total 9 Japanese.
  Leader to BC and C1, only 4 motorcyclists to near C1 and 8 climbers; total 13 Sherpas; sirdar at BC and C1 only; BC kitchen boy; C1 cook and 10 climbers.

  Sherpas:  
    Lhakpa Tenzing, sirdar to Everest summit 1973 spring Italian exp
    Dawa Norbu             to Everest summit 1985 spring Norwegian exp
    Nawang Yonden          to Everest summit 1983 winter Japanese exp

  Sherpas went to Everest for 1885 expedition via Kodari, but Chinese gave permission for only one crossing at Kodari, so returned to Nepal via Peking.


  Kim Ki-Heyg (Everest W Ridge leader) - 24 Dec 85

  Japanese Everest N Face Winter 85:

  Koreans often saw Japanese. Japan C2 very near Koreans C2. Japanese making good progress had no strong winds inside Hornbein Couloir.


  Saito (Japan Everest, autumn 1985) - 20 Aug 85

  Everest Winter 85-86:

  Mrs Kobayashi again leads on all male climbing team to Everest N Face (Hornbein Couloir) starting in Oct - about 15 members.

accidents:
  Some Sherpas frostbitten cheeks; 2 Japanese fingers frostbitten but none serious; no accidents or illnesses


expid: EVER86101
peakid: EVER
year: 1986
route1: N Face (Great Couloir)
nation: USA
leaders: Joe Murphy
sponsor: 1986 US Everest N Face Expedition
bcdate: 1986-03-19
smtdate: 1986-04-29
termdate: 1986-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 7775m due to bad weather, avalanche danger and expiration of permit
campsites: BC(19/03),C1(Mar,5670m),C2(Mar,6100m),C3(Mar,6250m),C4(19/04,7160m),C5(29/04,7775m),xxx(May,7775m)
accidents: 1 frostbite, 1 snowblindness
routememo:
  BC at road at foot of Rongbuk Glacier
  C3 at main Rongbuk Glacier north of North Face
  C4 on North Face
  High point at C5.

  Major route problems: bergschrund at foot of face and 600m of blue ice.


  1986 US Everest North Face Expedition 
  (received Aug 1986 from Al Read who received this from leader)

  The 1986 US Everest North Face expedition reached 25,500 ft in its attempt to make the second ascent of the Great Couloir of the North Face of Mt Everest. Bad weather, avalanche danger and exhaustion delayed and then ended the team's attempt to place the last camp (C6) and a try for the summit after its time expired.

  The eleven member team reached Lhasa by air on March 9 and BC at the foot of the Rongbuk Glacier by jeep and truck on March 19. C1 was established a week later and C2 (20,000) and C3 (20,500) on the main Rongbuk Glacier north of the North Face by late March.

  The route from the foot of the face to C4 (23,500 ft) was obstructed by a bergschrund at the start and made more difficult by 2000 ft of blue ice. Spring conditions differed considerably from the Styrofoam-like snow in the fall of 1984 when the Australian team made the first direct ascent of the couloir. The team spent a month placing 18 fixed ropes before occupying C4 on April 19 and another three weeks putting up C5. After 5 attempts to establish the last camp, the time expired and the team turned back, reaching BC on May 24 and Lhasa two days later.

  Apart from one climber who suffered frostbitten fingers and had to return, a case of snowblindness, and much respiratory sickness early in March and early April, the members of the expedition were generally healthy.

  The expedition members were Todd Bibler, Carlos Buhler, Dana Coffield, Mark Jenkins, Doug Kelley, Andy Lapkass, Michael Lehner, Joe Murphy, Sandy Stewart, Ann Whitehouse and Brinton Young.


expid: EVER86103
peakid: EVER
year: 1986
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Jeronimo Lopez
sponsor: Everest/Qomolangma Tibet Himalaya Expedition Madrid 1986
bcdate: 1986-03-22
smtdate: 1986-05-09
termdate: 1986-06-02
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to fierce wind
campsites: BC(22/03,5150m),C1(31/03,6100m),C2(01/04,6500m),C3(19/04,7050m),C4(09/05,7600m),xxx(09/05,7600m)
accidents: 1 member altitude sickness
routememo:
  Pedro Nicolas (Spanish Numbur) - 27 Sept 83

  Castillian Spanish Everest:

  Nicolas has permission from Chinese to bring expedition to Everest in 1986. Spring route probably will North Col to NE Ridge although may possibly attempt NNE Ridge route of 1982 spring (British).

  Now 8 members, may grow to 12 Castillians.


expid: EVER86104
peakid: EVER
year: 1986
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Haruyuki Endo
sponsor: Japan Everest Expedition 1986
bcdate: 1986-04-07
smtdate: 1986-05-10
termnote: Abandoned at 8600m due to cold winds and no strength left for further attempts
campsites: BC(07/04,5400m),C1(12/04,6100m),C2(17/04,6400m),C3(23/04,7300m),C4(09/05,7985m),xxx(10/05,8600m)
accidents: Miss Nagao sick in C3 with 'cold' (had reached South Col twice before her illness)
agency: Express
routememo:
  C1 at top of Khumbu Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col
  High point at below South Summit.

  Had rest period between C3 and C4. Then left BC on 3 May for summit attack by Endo, Nagao, Okadome, 2 Sherpas and Matsunaga on 4 May. 4 May to C2, 5 May to C3, bad weather and back to C2. 

  7 May up again from C2 8 May to C3 and C4 on 9 May. Miss Nagano in not good condition and returned to C2 7 May but had climbed to South Col twice before then. 10 May 01:30 hours started from Col: Endo, Matsunaga and Pemba Tsering. At 9:00 hrs reached 8600m. Now very cold and strong wind and had taken too long to reach this point. so turned back. Climb finished. 

  Okadome cannot climb without oxygen and not possible for small team carry up enough for this. Now no strength left in team for more attempts.

  Found body of Indian below C3 at bottom of Lhotse Face. Did not see Mrs. Schmatz although little snow above Col.

  Endo made this second Everest climb to make it possible for Miss Nagao to become the 1st woman atop Everest without using oxygen.


  Tourism - 18 May

  At South Col on 9 May:
   
    leader Endo (no oxygen)
    Tadanori Matunaga
    Pemba Tshering

  and attacked from C4. Left 1:45 am and return Col 9 hours 15 minutes to 8600m. On 10 May abandoned because: 25-50 cm soft snowfall above Col, high winds and exhaustion.
   
  All members well.


expid: EVER86105
peakid: EVER
year: 1986
route1: Lho La-W Ridge (to 7200m)
route2: Geneva Spur-SE Ridge (to 7800m)
nation: Poland
leaders: Tadeusz Karolczak
sponsor: Polish Everest Expedition 1986 (Spring)
countries: Austria
bcdate: 1986-04-10
smtdate: 1986-05-13
termdate: 1986-05-28
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to end of climbing season
othersmts: Climbed Lhotse illegally (LHOT-861-02)
campsites: BC(10/04,5350m),xxx(13/05,7800m)
accidents: Putz back injury (stopped his climbing); Karolczak stomach illness
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC below Lho La
  High point at Geneva Spur.

  The three-man team attempted 2 routes from the south side, climbing without Sherpas, oxygen or fixed camps. First they tried to climb the West Ridge and spent the latter half of April attempting to get onto the Lho La, which they finally reached via snowfields near the Khumbutse ridge on 27th April. Next day they moved up Everest's West Ridge and bivouacked at 7100m, 100m down on the SW Face, which they descended into the Western Cwm and back to BC on the 30th. Next day turned their attention on the normal route via Lhotse's West Face; strong wind and snowfall delayed their progress but on 11th May two Polish members began to push from BC which resulted in their gaining a high point for Everest's summit of 7800m.

  On the 14th May the 2 Poles, Lwow and Karolczak, went surreptitiously to the summit of Lhotse and back to their bivouac. They considered their Lhotse ascent good acclimatization for another go at the West Ridge route, but Karolczak now developed stomach illness and Austrian member Putz had dropped out of the climb because of an old back injury. 

  On 24th May Lwow went alone up through the Khumbu Icefall to try to solo the normal route, but the following several days brought heavy snowfall, he was able to get no higher than 6700m; he was very tired and it would have taken him more days to reach the summit alone than were left in the climbing season; he returned to BC on 27th and abandoned the struggle on the 28th of May.

  Japanese agreed expedition could follow Japanese route after 1 May so first tried to climb to Lho La and 3 times were on rocks via Yugoslav route with 3rd time on 17 April got to 50m below Lho La where couloir blocked final climb without 200m more fixed rope which Poles didn't have. 23 April went to left of Yugoslavia route up snow fields near Khumbutse ridge and 27 April bivouac at Canadians camp on Lho La at 6000m. 28 April biv 6900m on ridge and 29 April reached shoulder and bivouacked 100m down on face at 7100m. 30 April descended iced SW Face to W Cwm to Japan C2 and down to BC through Icefall. 1-3 May rest at BC. 4 May 3 members BC to biv at C2 in Cwm about 6700m. 5 May biv on Lhotse face at 7300m then bad weather (wind and snow) and C3 to BC on 7 May. 11 May 2 Poles BC to C2, 12th to C3, 13th to biv 7800m on Geneva Spur. On 14 May actually both Poles went to Lhotse summit and back to biv but officially stayed 14th in biv. Thought Lhotse climb = good acclimatization for W Ridge. Returned to BC 17th and then leader got stomach problem. 24th Lwow alone up through Icefall which was "difficult" and slept at 6700m. Now heavy snowfall and 2 more nights at same biv. 27 May down to BC through much changed Icefall where however he had placed marker flags. 28th 15 cm more new snow at BC and "it was finished" because Lwow very tired and would take 4 days to go to summit but only 3 days of season remained.

  Did acclimatization climb to 1m below Lhotse summit rather than up Everest SE Ridge because couloir on Lhotse gave protection from wind.

  Had definitely intended to return to W Ridge route, but Karolczak's illness precluded this.


expid: EVER86201
peakid: EVER
year: 1986
route1: N Col (to 7000m)
route2: N Face (Japanese Couloir) (to 7710m)
nation: Canada
leaders: Roger Marshall
sponsor: 1986 Everest Solo
countries: USA
bcdate: 1986-07-01
smtdate: 1986-09-18
termnote: Abandoned at 7710m due to deep snow and fatigue
campsites:
  BC(01/07,5200m),ABC(08/07,6200m),C1(19/08,7000m),NewABC1(02/09,5500m),NewABC2(4-5/09,5950m),xxx(18/09,7710m)

routememo:
  BC  at Rongbuk Glacier before Main and East Glacier spot
  ABC 12 miles from BC up East Rongbuk at foot of North Col
  C1  at North Col
  New ABC at Main Rongbuk (Lake Camp)
  New ABC at foot of Changtse
  High point near bottom of Hornbein Couloir.

  Bad weather (heavy snow) in July left him skiing to Lho La and watching snow conditions. 12 Aug put tent on Col (not erected) and down. 19 Aug to Col and slept there only one night because again heavy snowfall; down to BC. 29 Aug BC to North Col and slept 2 nights there and down again. Now decided to go to Hornbein Couloir (on 30th saw Swiss at top of Hornbein). Moved to bottom of N Face but more heavy snowfall. 15 Sept weather cleared and up to ABC.1 16th, ABC.2 17th. 9:00 pm 17th Sept in full moonlight made summit bid, but went off course to right of direct line (was very tired) and on 18th realized unable to get to top since didn't know where he was and couldn't see the route.

  Webster (photographer) went twice to North Col with Marshall to take photos. Ruth DeCew to 2nd ABC on Hornbein route (Webster had gone home).


  Al Read - 16 Sept 86

  Everest Summer 1986: Roger Marshall

  Not been on face until 1st Sept. Was with Chileans and used their fixed ropes to North Col, his highest point.

  Not on Swiss-French N Face permit (probably via Hornbein) which is valid till end of Sept. 

  Ed Webster, his photographer, left, but girl friend still there. Webster also went to N Col.


  Beghin - 17 Sept 86

  Roger Marshall said he would try for 2 weeks via Hornbein, but too much snow for 1 man alone. Alone except girl friend, not even LO or interpreter.

  French Swiss team left BC 5 Sept.


  Roger Marshall - 20 Dec 85

  N Col-N Face Everest:

  July-Aug '86 - Marshall will be completely solo on mountain. BC at 21,500 ft on East Rongbuk, acclimatize up to North Col and then when snow conditions are right will make summit push. 1-4 people at BC.


expid: EVER86203
peakid: EVER
year: 1986
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Chile
leaders: Claudio Lucero
sponsor: Chilean Everest N Col Expedition 1986
bcdate: 1986-08-10
smtdate: 1986-08-16
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to member's death in bad snow
campsites: BC(10/08),xxx(16/08,7600m)
accidents: 1 member killed in avalanche
routememo:
  Al Read - 16 Sept 86

  Chilean was killed by avalanche which he precipitated by falling through cornice at North Col.

  Were on traditional British/Chinese route via North Col.
  5-6 members plus 5-6 Sherpas.

  Later in 1986, a team of young mountaineers from the Catholic Univ began the second Chile attempt on Everest. Above the North Col at 7000m and at the precise moment when the depot for the attack camp was being prepared, loosened piece of the cornice struck Victor-Hugo Trujillo and he fell nearly 700 vertical meters. His instanteous death put an end to this attempt. 

  Source "Everest, The Challenge of the Dream" by Rodrigo Jordan Fuchs, pg 110.


  Paul Firth - 13 December 2007

  Account forwarded from Argentine sources:

  "The 16th August 1986, when Trujillo was a bit higher than the northern 'Collado', he got to near the side that crumbled under his weight. As he was not tied to the rest, he fell 700 meters and died due to the fall. His body was rescued and buried by his friends in a beautiful place in the same valley where the Advanced Base Camp is located. He is still there."


expid: EVER86202
peakid: EVER
year: 1986
route1: N Face (Japanese & Hornbein Couloirs)
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Erhard Loretan
sponsor: Everest 1986 The Third Pole and Qomolongma Expedition (combi)
ascent1: 74th
countries: France
bcdate: 1986-08-01
smtdate: 1986-08-30
smttime: 1400
termdate: 1986-09-05
campsites: LowBC(5200m),BC(5500m),ABC(earlyAug,5850m),Biv1(29/08,7800m),Biv2(30/08,8200m),Smt(30/08)
routememo:
  Low BC at high point 
  ABC just below Changtse Ridge on Main Rongbuk Glacier
  Biv in snow cave below Hornbein Couloir [at 7800m in ascent]
  Biv in snow cave [at 8200m in descent].

  Troillet had wanted to do solo ascent of Hornbein Couloir and Loretan and Beghin wanted to climb Great Couloir, but heavy snowfall in Aug made them decide to climb together to make track. Climbed nearly same route as Japanese 1980. Beghin set out for summit with Loretan and Troillet but was defeated in two attempts by sleepiness and got no higher than 8300m.

  Ascent from ABC 5800m 11 pm 28 Aug to 2:00 pm 30 Aug - 39 hours.


  Beghin - 17 Sept 86

  Troillet wanted 1st solo Hornbein and Beghin and Loretan wanted to go up Great Couloir but Aug bad weather (heavy snowfall) and all 3 decided to go on same route to make track. 3 climbing members only went to Hornbein direct nearly same as Japanese 1980 route.

  3 went together from ABC to 7800m, where made snow cave and in couloir Beghin too sleepy and return to cave while they other 2 went to top. Met again at cave. Same day as they returned, Beghin started in evening alone but at 8300m at 11 pm in Hornbein again sleepy and returned to cave (which was empty) and slept there and next morning to ABC at 5800m just below Changtse ridge on Main Rangbuk Glacier. BC at 5500m where Jeeps stop.

  No Sherpas, oxygen, no ropes at all, no sleeping bags on summit push. No accidents. No idea why Beghin so sleepy except were climbing at night to avoid avalanching.

  Hornbein not difficult but lower part of face very dangerous from avalanches says Beghin.


  28 Aug 3 started from ABC 5800m at 11:00 pm
  29 Aug reached cave 7800m   at 11:00 am
         left cave                8:00 pm
  30 Aug 2 arrive summit          2:30 pm
         2 arrive cave [at 8200m] 7:00 pm
         2 arrive ABC             7:00 pm and slept there

  Beghin took 2 hours from cave to ABC following day as rapid descents possible when much loose snow. ABC (1 tent) established early August but most acclimatization and waiting for good weather at BC. Left BC 5 Sept.


  Loretan - 25 Sept 86

  Everest Aug 1986 took no tent and sleeping bag. Took shovel for snow caving and climbed during cold hours, rested in warm hours by climbing at night. BC to BC 41 hours but risk is greater. If altitude illness or broken leg, finished with only 2 people with only 2 people in this technique.

  This very light alpine-style makes possible more difficult routes and longer traverses can be done on 8000ers.


  Graf - 30 July 86

  Loretan, his girl friend Nicole, Troillet and Beghin at BC 2 weeks now already.

  N Face to Lho La to SW Face arriving bottom of Khumbu Icefall in Sept/early Oct if HMG agreed, but apparently did not, since some gear they would have sent for Nepal side has not turned up.


  Erhard Loretan (interview: 24 Sept 86)

  Exactly 41 hours from BC to the summit of Everest and back to BC.

  28 Aug 11 pm: "we climb all the night until 11 am 29 Aug at 7000m and at this place we make a small snow cave and we spend the afternoon drinking a lot and eating, no sleep and at a 9 pm, we start again and go to 8200m; it was very cold and we made another snow cave and we rested for three hours (from 2 am to 5 am). We stay one hour, 20 minutes, at the top and then we go down in three hours."

  "From the first snow cave at 7800m to the second snow cave at 8200m, I was very tired. After that, I felt fine."

  For me it would have been better to go almost non-stop. Spend an hour two in the snow cave for drinking, and then go non-stop.


expid: EVER86303
peakid: EVER
year: 1986
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Andrew Harvard
sponsor: 1986 Everest N Ridge Expedition
countries: Canada, UK
approach: Half via Kathmandu, half via Lhasa->Rongbuk Glacier
bcdate: 1986-08-27
smtdate: 1986-09-28
termdate: 1986-10-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7770m due to frequent heavy snowfall, winds
accidents: 1 Sherpa died in avalanche
campsites:
  BC(27/08,5200m),YakCamp(01/09,5800m),ABC(03/09,6550m),C4(12/09,7000m),C5(28/09,7770m),xxx(28/09,7770m)

routememo:
  Breashears - 3 Nov 86

  Dawa Norbu who summited with Bonington was killed by slab avalanche 17 Oct descending North Col - cremated at Rongbuk nunnery.

  C4 established by Breashears about 20 Oct with 3 Sherpas. Loads had been dumped there but occupied only by this team. Winds about 80 mph that night drove them down next morning. Later that week tent at C5 shredded by winds and no one even reached it again.

  15th Oct push to go up again. 4 Sherpas reached North Col and stayed till 17th at C3 there but 17th descended in high winds and Dawa Nuru killed.

  2 more attempts to regain Col on 20th and 22nd Oct but conditions of slab avalanche had worsened and Col primed for massive slab avalanche and not regained.

  23rd Breashears decided too dangerous to resume climb and Sherpas declared they would not go up again as had others. 23rd Oct climb abandoned. 

  Oxygen used for sleeping at C4 on theory they would continue up to next day - only use of oxygen was by 4 men night of about 2 Oct.

  No accidents except one fatal avalanche. No serious illness or frostbite. 
  13 Sherpas and all 16 members went above BC.

  Holzel was not permitted by leader Andy Harvard and deputy leader David Breashears to take metal detectors above ABC at 21,300 ft but let him take them that high to keep him busy. Andy and David sensitive to criticism.

  1 crampon found from 1930's Chinese expedition


  Peter Athans - 24 Oct 86
   
  Dawa Nuru, Thami, killed by big hard wind slab avalanche from North Col
  C3 on Col
  C5 at 7500m
  Trying to put in C6 in mid-Oct when winds were high 
  Planned to leave BC 29th


  Newsletter, Mt. Everest BC

  From Lhasa it was a two-day bus ridge (via Gyantse and Shigatse) to Xegar, the romantic Shekar Dzong of early Everest literature. Here we stayed three nights and were able to climb the Dzong.
   
  From Xegar an interesting day's truck ride over the Pang La, rising gradually into the mountains brought us at last to Everest. There is a difficult river crossing at the entrance to the Rongbuk  Valley, then a steep rough ride up to the Monastery (where again restoration is in progress) and beyond to our BC on the moraine of the Rongbuk Glacier.

  With four Sherpas, David Swanson led our first train of yaks up the East Rongbuk Glacier to ABC at 21,300 ft on Aug 28. He wanted to see the mountain at close quarters before having to return on Sept2. Frantic sorting of equipment and high altitude rations occupied the next few days days and today a second yak train went up with Mike Weis and Mike Yeager, to be followed by another in a couple of days time.

  The C3 has now been set at 23,200 ft. Everyone seems to be acclimatizing well. We have been suprised, and somewhat dismayed by the heavy volume of snow on the mountain. We are hoping season winds will help to remove some of it.


  BC - Sept 15, 1986

  We have now been established in BC for two and a half weeks. The monsoon is not yet over and the weather is harsh, but that hasn't prevented us from setting up and stocking our approach camps.

  By Sept 4 we had 40 yaks loads delivered to our ABC at 21,000 ft and on Sept 5th five members reached the North Col, which will be the sight of our next camp. The route up to the Col was reconnoitered in chest deep snow by Mike Weis, David Breashears and Nima Temba, following the line of an enormous avalanche which had carried and killed one of the young Chileans, tearing through their line of fixed ropes.

  On the following all members began drifting back to BC for a puja ceremony of blessing, which the Sherpas had arranged for Sunday 7, as being an auspicious day in their calendar.
   
  During this period in BC, our first group of trekkers arrived under the leadership of Jed Williamson. The more energetic among them were able to visit our advanced camps in the next few days, while Jed himself agreed to stay on as a full member of the expedition.


  Oct 1, 1986

  More than a week of fine weather has greatly improved our fortunes and our spirits. Our way to the North Col is now re-established, after a five day storm, and we are able to make regular trips up there ferrying loads and getting a substantial camp organized. We need to be as strong as we can on the Col as this is the camp from which our film teams will operate.

  We have also had good luck recently breaking trail above the North Col. Camp 4 at the sight of the early British Everesters C5, has been established and stocked at 25,600 ft. Efforts have been made to locate C5, at accomodate the first summit teams, and thereafter the search teams looking for artifacts from the 1924 British expedition. The camp is located high under the Northeast Ridge.

  To ensure that climbers remain fit and frest for the hardwork that lies ahead high on the mountain, they are being rotated back to BC for short rest periods. The coughs and colds that plagued the members in the early weeks of the expedition are almost a thing of the past.
   
  The team has been further strengthened by the arrival of Dave Cheesemond, straight from the American expedition K2. Almost immediately after his arrival in BC, Dave headed for Advanced Base, where he will assist David Breashears and Mike Weis with film duties.

  On Sept 19 George Bell and Donna de Varona arrived in BC. Donna is the on-camera host of the hour long ABC Sports special we are shooting about the first American woman to go to the summit of Everest (keep your fingers crossed). George will produce and write it. It was a pleasure to see Donna out shooting within hours of her arrival, paying scant regard to her sudden elevation in altitude. Donna even made the trip to Yak Camp at 19,000 ft with hopes of getting to Advanced Base, before being turned back by a snowstorm.  George also got footage for NBC News. Today Show and worked on sequences for the historical documentary with David Breashears and Andy Harvard. George and Donna left BC on Oct 1st.
   
  BC remains a place of unexpected sociability. John Roskelley was here with a group of trekkers that included several old friends. They were bound for the Lho La, the pass that looks into Nepal.
   
  The good weather has also enabled our neighbours, the British Northeast Ridge Expedition, once more to make progress on their route. The "Air Over Everest" group across the parking lot have attempted two test flights with their first saw speed skier Steve McKinney launch into uncertain wind condition, culminating in a spectacular and uncomfortable landing. It was, Steve told us, what is known in the trade as "beaking" - when the nose of the glider and pilot impact the ground somewhat forcefully. Lucky for Steve, his customized helmet allowed him to get away with superficial bruises and cuts.

   
  1986 Mt Everest - 26  Nov

  October in the Himalaya was marked by unremitting high winds and heavy snows. Almost daily storm clouds moved up the valley, dropping few inches of snow on our base camp at 17,000 ft and dumping much heavier falls high up. Sue Giller remembers reading four books in five days, while occasionally peering out her tent flap at Advanced BC only to see her chances of making the summit buried in an apparently endless snowfall. This was a typical feeling for most of the team members who were on the mountain in the first half of the month.

  The frustration was compounded by the fact that virtually all members of the expedition had made great progress in early Oct. After nearly two months in BC, and a week long hike, Audrey Salked reached ABC.  All three of the women climbers - Sue Giller, Mary Kay Brewster, and Catherine Cullinane, were well acclimatized and ready for a push to the upper slopes. Indeed, Mary Kay and Catherine set personal altitude records by reaching 24,500 ft one morning under a bright sky of fast moving clouds. Accompanied by three Sherpas, David Breashears had established C5 on Oct 4.
   
  On Oct 12, the Air-Over Everest group decided to leave the mountain. Led by Heidi Benson, the team was ultimately frustrated by heavy snows on their route.

  On Oct 16, the British team - our neighbours in BC for two and a half months - determined that they had had enough of the weather and began to retreat from Everest. We remembered Joe Brown's cramped birthday party in the British BC, and the friendship we had made with the British climbers, and we were sorry to see them go. Clearly and early winter had arrived in our part of Tibet.

  On the next day, one of our best loved Sehrpas, Dawa Nuru, 32, was killed in a small slab avalanche at 22,000 ft while descending from the North Col camp. David Breashears pulled him from the debris of snow and ice. Two days later, Danudu, as he was known to all, received a proper Buddhist burial, with cremation and prayer performed at the Rongbuk Nunnery. His death surprised and deeply saddened all the members of the team, and put us on alert to the danger of avalanche in the col.

  In the days that followed Danudu's cremation, attempts were made to hike above Advanced BC to reassess the avalanche danger. The prognosis was not good. On Oct 23, leader Andrew Harvard, made the decision to call off the expedition.

  The team spent nearly a week getting of the mountain and packing up gear in the BC. The sadness over Danudu's death and the frustration of the expedition were inescapable, still there was a sense that no other team could have done any better under a similar conditions. Everyone performed well, and a few climbers went higher than they had ever gone before. When it was time for the trucks and jeeps to leave BC, we reluctantly split up: half the team headed for Lhasa, the other half for KTM.

  On Nov 2, Andy Harvard carried the first Earth Run torch through the streets of Lhasa.

  On the same day in KTM, David Breashears consoled the brothers of Danudu and offered the assistance of the expedition in helping Danudu's wife and three young sons.

  Despite Danudu's death and the weather which prevented any of the women from trying for the summit, moreover, leaving us unable to conduct a thorough search for Mallory and Irvine at the 28,000 ft terrace, there was a positive feeling about the expedition. It came out of the heartfelt conviction that we had done everything that we could on the mountain.

  We knew there were risks. Danudu knew there were risks. Still, we went and he went with us. I think everyone of us would go again. And almost immediately, there was talk of going back. It was this enthusiasm for the experience that most of us will remember.


  Peter Hackatt - 28 Oct 86

  Got to pinnacles just little below where Boardman and Taskar disappeared; snow and more especially strong winds. All Ok. Left BC 20 Oct.


expid: EVER86305
peakid: EVER
year: 1986
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Eric Escoffier
sponsor: Escoffier's Expedition to Everest and Lhotse
bcdate: 1986-09-24
smtdate: 1986-09-27
termdate: 1986-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 8600m due to bad weather and late arrival
othersmts: Lhotse (permit, but not attempted) (LHOT-863-03)
campsites: BC(24/09,5400m),C1(26/09,6400m),C2(26/09,7400m),C3(27/09,7900m),xxx(27/09,8600m)
accidents: 1 member got snowblindness for 2 days
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 in Western Cwm
  C2 on Lhotse Face
  High point on SE Ridge.

  Left BC 26th Sept (all 4 French, summit bid by Escoffier and other 3 to C2). Escoffier to C3 at 5:00 pm taking tent, food, fuel, etc. 27th 1:30 am left and reached S Col 4:30 am with sleeping bag, gas and little food, stayed in Swiss tent and started up at 6:00 am after 3 Swiss members had started up at 4:00 am and caught up with others at 8400m and continued to where route reached ridge. Wind very strong. Escoffier descended to C3 at 4 pm same day. 28th took most of day to reach C2 in strong wind and 29th to BC in deep snow. Early Oct Escoffier with some Swiss members to C2 but to BC next day because of snow. 

  Escoffier again with Pierre Beghin 13th Oct, got to C3 14th Oct, terrible winds and 15th down to BC. 21st down to BC due to wind. Left BC on 22nd to KTM. Had ordered yaks for departure.

  Escoffier had parachute but wind conditions prevented its use.


expid: EVER86301
peakid: EVER
year: 1986
route1: NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: John (Brummie) Stokes
sponsor: Everest NE Ridge - The Seligmann Harris Expedition
countries: New Zealand
bcdate: 1986-08-07
smtdate: 1986-10-15
termdate: 1986-10-18
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to heavy snowfall, avalanche danger
accidents: Nothing serious
campsites:
  BC(07/08,5200m),YakCamp(15/08,5800m),ABC(18/08,6500m),C1(24/08,7000m),C2(01/09,7300m),C3(15/10,8000m),xxx(15/10,8000m)

routememo:
  BC at Rongbuk Glacier
  C1 at East Rongbuk Glacier
  C2 just below first buttress (snowhole)
  C3 close to first Pinnacle's steep slope
  High point at C2.


  Peter Athans, American team (McKinney) - 24 Jan 2009

  No Sherpas from our team were killed. There was a British team that lost a young Sherpa from Phortse village and I believe his name was Ang Phu or Phu Tashi. I don't remember specifically. [Death at BC?]


  Ang Jangbu (Phortse) - 14 Dec 2012

  Ang Jangbu does not think any Sherpas from Phortse were killed on the north side of Everest in Autumn 1986.


expid: EVER86302
peakid: EVER
year: 1986
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Fredy Graf
sponsor: Swiss Eiselin Sport Himalaya Expedition
countries: Argentina, Denmark, France, Netherlands, UK, W Germany
bcdate: 1986-08-22
smtdate: 1986-09-25
termdate: 1986-10-14
termnote: Abandoned due to prearrangement of yaks dismantle BC on preset date
othersmts: Lhotse (permit, but not attempted) (LHOT-863-02)
campsites: BC(22/08,5400m),C1(28/08,6100m),C2(04/09,6400m),C3(09/09,7400m),C4(24/09,8000m),xxx(25/09,8763m)
routememo:
  BC at usual site
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 on Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col
  High point at South Summit.

  25th Sept summit bid by Graf, Koenig, Naar, Chuldim Dorje from C4; Naar to 8300-8400m without oxygen, then turned back exhausted; other 3 using O2 reached S Summit, turned back in waist-deep powder snow at 4:30 pm and returned to C4 that evening. 

  26th to C4 Weber, Burkhardt, Monnart for summit bid accompanied by 2 [Sherpas] to Col only. 27th, 3 men tried for summit to 8650m; 28th Burkhardt killed by avalanche (while descending Lhotse Face) while other 3 down to C2.

  4 Oct Graf, Naar, Burgess, Koenig, B. Muller and his wife from BC to C2, but snowstorm sent them back to BC 5 Oct.  

  13th Oct Graf, Naar and Burgess up from BC, Graf to C3, other 2 stopped at C2. Back to C2 on 14th Oct because of wind and new snowfall.

  BC evacuated at 17th Oct by prearrangement the yaks, so Graf must go to BC and others see no chance of Everest success.


  Naar - 19 Oct 1986

  Naar to 8600m with Graf, Koenig and Sherpa on 25th Sept (other 3 to South Summit). 27th Sept to 8600m - 3 Swiss Weber, Burkhardt, Monerat; Escoffier behind them.

  6  Oct to C2 only 
  13  "  Graf and Naar to about 7500m, back because wind 
  14  "  Escoffier and Beghin to 7500m, worse wind


  Zehnder - 15 Oct 1986

  Graf, Koenig, Naar and Chuldim Sherpa (21) tried for summit about 24 Sept. Naar to 8450m and feared frostbite and down. Other 3 to South Summit and back because too late (4:00 pm) and much deep snow. Had been very quick at first but deep snow when reached ridge.

  Burkhardt, Weber, Monnerat (and Escoffier) on 27th to 8500-8600m and turned back because deep snow and late and oxygen finishing. Escoffier not breaking trail at all and down to C3 same day.

  28th others left C4 Col and had week avalanches crossing yellow band. Burkhardt hit by bigger avalanche between band and C3 (C3 in seracs towards right of face at about 7300m). Then heavy snowfall and no more summit attempts. 5 Oct up to C2 and down again when snowfall resumed.

  4 Oct worked on Icefall route and Sherpa killed by serac collapse which sent him into crevasse.

  Still hoping for Everest summit:
    Graf
    Burgess
    Koenig
    Bernard Muller 
    Lawrence de la Ferriere
    Naar
    Uranga (Raul)

  Leave BC about 18 Oct = end of expedition  
  No attempt for Lhotse summit at all
  Chances of success after 1st of Oct very small. Graf has same frostbite.


  Accident of Dr. Simon Burkhardt/Switzerland

  27/9/86 - 3 members climbed to the South Ridge at Everest south wall,
            and turned at an altitude of 8650m at 1200 hours and then they
            climbed back to camp 4, where they slept a second night on 8000m.

  28/9/86 - Because of fog and storm, the 3 members started at
            0900 direction 
            1000 they reached 6- SP made fotos and the weather was very
                 good and windy.
            1100 the first which climbed down direction of Yellow Band was
                 Raymond Monnerat, 44, followed by Peter Weber, 44, an 
                 architect, both from Switzerland, the third was Dr. Simon
                 Burkhardt. At this time a big powder avalanche from the 
                 Lhotse couloir overspoiled Peter and Raymond. They
                 survived this avalance and continued the way to the C3.
            1115 Raymond and Peter reached C3 by running for their life.
            1130 Simon was at that time at the Yellow Band and crossed the
                 last few meters under the Lhotse wall to C3. A first powder
                 avalanche covered him, but he could go on.
            1145 avalanche killed him. He was hanging in the fixed rope.
                 His neck was hit by a ice piece.
            1500 the 2 members with 5 other from C3 went to C2 where 6
                 Sherpas were waiting them.

  29/9/86 - Celebration at the BC for Simon

accidents:
  Burkhardt killed Sep 28 by avalanche descending Lhotse Face; Gyalu Sherpa killed Oct 4 by falling seracs which buried him in icefall


expid: EVER86304
peakid: EVER
year: 1986
route1: W Ridge from N (7170m)
route2: N Face
nation: USA
leaders: Steve McKinney
sponsor: US Everest (W Ridge) - Autumn 1986
bcdate: 1986-09-08
smtdate: 1986-10-12
termdate: 1986-10-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7170m due to winds, bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(08/09,5000m),ABC(16/09,5500m),C1(19/09,6000m),C2(24/09,6600m),C3(12/10,7170m),xxx(12/10,7170m)
routememo:
  BC at Rongbuk Glacier
  ABC 
  C1 at spur slightly east of Lho la
  C2 at spur leading to West Shoulder
  C3 just below West Shoulder
  High point at C3.

  W Ridge progress greatly slowed by need to get a hang-glider up the route. 

  3 members tried quick ascent via N Face on 14th Oct. Athans, Freer and Politz tried Japanese Couloir-Hornbein Couloir route on N Face but got no higher than 6860m because of bad snow conditions and were back at starting point 24 hours later. 

  Oxygen taken for use by hang-glider pilots and for climbers above 8000m.


  Andy Politz - 11 Nov 86

  Arrived BC about 6-8 Sept
  ABC
  C1 - 6000m on spur slightly east of Lho La
  C2 - 6600m on spur to West Shoulder
  C3 - 7170m (23,500 ft) just below Shoulder mid-Oct - highest point reached by
  expedition was hang-gliding and making movie.

  Had test flight from 20,500 ft on 5 Oct. No other flights actually because of weather problems and pilots not acclimatizing in sync with weather.

  Left BC 26 Oct.

  Summit attempt by 3 members on 14 Oct by Pete Athans, Catherine Freer and Andy Politz; got to 22,500 ft in 24 hours and back because of bad snow conditions and weather deteriorating. Were trying Japanese Couloir to Hornbein Couloir.


  Pete Athans - 24 Oct 86

  He left BC 19 Oct. Had been big effort to get gliders up to take offs. One went fine just 1000 ft above Lho La; camp had been 200-300 ft below Lho Lha; had ropes to C3 on shoulder at about 23,750 ft.

  Gliders then hauled to C3 by 10 Oct. Then high winds for a week but mile-long snow plume engulfing North Ridge.

  Tried to climb at night up Hornbein got to 7000m at 1:30 am but water ice and wind slab. Athans, Freer and Politz on 14/15 Oct and returned to Lho La and C1.


  Hang-gliders

  McKinney hang-glided; winds later made flights impossible. 3-person alpine-style attempt up Japanese couloir by Athans, Freer and Politz to 23,000 ft - too cold about 15 Oct. 

  All Ok. Left BC 26 Oct highest camp was at 23,800 ft for gliding and highest point reached was 24,000 ft 12 Oct for landing glider.

  Put in a camp at 25,500 ft but was occupied only one night probably, defeated by winds and avalanching. Enormous amount of equipment abandoned on North Col, too dangerous to retrieve.

  One Sherpa death
  Leave BC 28 Oct
  Winds on Col terrible.

  Athans had to leave for trek the leads in Nepal. More gliding planned but more high climbing seemed ruled out.
   
  8 climbing Sherpas
  3 hang-glider pilots - 2 to C3
  3 film crew - 1 not above C1 
  4 lead climbers
  6 other climbers
  Steve McKinney used oxygen


  Peter Athans, American team (McKinney) - 24 Jan 2009

  Many of us went to the high point, the West Shoulder, then. Perhaps the entire team. The objective was to have a hang-glider launch from there and fly over the top. Certainly myself, Kim Carpenter, Andy Politz, Catherine Freer went up to that point.

  No Sherpas from our team were killed. There was a British team that lost a young Sherpa from Phortse village and I believe his name was Ang Phu or Phu Tashi. I don't remember specifically.


  Ang Jangbu (Phortse) - 14 Dec 2012

  Hang-Glideing Members:
    Steve McKinney
    Bob Carter
    Larry Tudor 
    Craig Colonica
    Peter Athans
    Peter Hackett
    Andy Politz

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Dorje, Khunde
    Ang Jangbu, Phortse
    Lhakpa Tshering, Khunde
    Ang Nima, Khunde
    Ang Danu, Khunde

  Ang Jangbu does not think any Sherpas from Phortse were killed on the north side of Everest in Autumn 1986.


expid: EVER86402
peakid: EVER
year: 1986
route1: SW Face (Bonington rte)
nation: S Korea
leaders: Park Young-Bae
sponsor: 1986-87 Korean Winter Everest SW Face Expedition
bcdate: 1986-12-16
smtdate: 1987-01-25
termdate: 1987-02-02
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to fatal accident
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(16/12,5300m),C1(21/12,6100m),C2(28/12,6600m),C4(09/01,7300m),C5(19/01,7700m),C6(25/01,8300m),xxx(25/01,8300m)

routememo:
  BC at usual site
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 at bottom of SW Face
  C3 not made, not necessary
  C4 on face
  C6 not occupied
  High point at C6 site.

  Summit attack scheduled for first days of Feb. Had 10 days continuous clear weather and little wind, also little snow which meant much rockfall. Used Korean box tents in C4, C5 and C6. Fatal accident made other Sherpas very much afraid of difficult route between C5 and C6 and not willing to continue supplying highest camps. High climb difficult with no snowfall.

  Tsuttin Dorje, 21 years old, fell while carrying load from C4 and C5 with Ang Nima in apparent incorrect jummar; fell 1000m and body not found. Sungdare and Lhakpa Norbu hit by falling rock while sleeping in C4 20 Jan and 23 Jan while descending to C3 but both now Ok. One other Sherpa, Tendi, went home after altitude sickness became serious. Nam stayed C2 long time with leg pains.

accidents:
  1 Sherpa fell while carrying load from C4 to C5 with Ang Nima (fell 800-1000m, body not found); Sungdare and Lhakpa Norbu hit by falling rock (Sungdare while sleeping in C4, Lhakpa while descending); 1 Sherpa went home after AMS


expid: EVER86401
peakid: EVER
year: 1986
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Oh In-Hwan
sponsor: Korean Winter Everest Expedition (S Col Route)
bcdate: 1986-11-21
smtdate: 1986-12-07
termdate: 1986-12-25
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to bad weather (strong winds)
accidents: Ang Tshering frostbitten toes & fingers; no other problems
agency: Adventure Nepal
campsites:
  BC(21/11,5400m),C1(03/12,6100m),C2(05/12,6500m),C3(06/12,7300m),C4(07/12,8000m),xxxx(07,21/12,8000m)

routememo:
  BC at foot of Khumbu Icefall (then down to Lobuche)
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col
  High point at South Col.

  Could make fast progress with Heo who has high altitude experience. 8th Dec planned for summit but wind too strong; descended to BC because of Ang Tshering's frostbite. On 19th Dec Heo and Sungdare started up for next attack. 2 nights at S Col (21-22nd Dec) but wind very strong and no oxygen left at S Col so 23rd Dec again descended and arrived BC at night. All left BC 25th Dec according to plan because Oh's experience with Everest 2 years ago was that weather on Everest in January is very bad and all climbers' condition deteriorates.


  J B Singh - 8 June
  Adventure Nepal

  Singh does not remember case of Ang Tshering but does remember expedition sirdar [Pasang Norbu] didn't get all his salary (and Singh didn't get full pay for trekking group). 2-3 years later, Korean leader (Oh) was seen in KTM; sirdar and Singh went to Oh and demanded payment. Sirdar given equipment to sell.

  Maybe unhappy while insurance claim unsettled 
  Expedition said no funds 
  Trust paid Rs 15,000

  Was with Korean winter 1986 (Dec 1986), frostbite


  Kami Temba - 6 June

  Dr. Baskota amputated [for Ang Tshering's injuries]
  All salary received, most but maybe not all - very difficult
  In Khunde complained about salary, but on return from KTM no complaints, no Korean.


  Sonam Gyalzen - 8 May

  Pasang Norbu, sirdar (Namche)
  Korean Everest 6-7 years ago
  Was Ang Tshering's expedition when frostbitten

  Received salary and insurance but nothing from expedition for frostbite.
  Is in Thami: farmer, yakman and porter but unable to climb - only 30-35 years.

  Put insurance money in savings account and comes to KTM occasionally to collect interest.


expid: EVER87106
peakid: EVER
year: 1987
route1: N Face (Japanese & Hornbein Couloirs)
nation: Canada
leaders: Roger Marshall
sponsor: Canadian US Everest Expedition 1987
countries: USA
bcdate: 1987-04-24
smtdate: 1987-05-20
termdate: 1987-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 7850m due to Marshall's altitude illness and subsequent fatal fall while descending
campsites: BC(24/04,5580m),C1(01/05,5940m),Biv(20/05,7850m),xxx(20/05,7850m)
agency: Ama Dablam Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at lake camp
  Biv above Japanese Couloir
  High point at biv above Japanese Couloir.

  On 18th May, Roger moved up from lake camp 18,300 ft and to follow on 19th. Roger to leave 2:00 am 20th, he rested at 19,500 ft on 19th. Ruth on 19th started out and Pasang too for short distance - route passed than US BC half way. Just outside lake camp, Ruth saw Roger at 23,500 ft in Japanese Couloir climbing strong, steadily at 10:00 am.

  Plan was for Roger on 1st day to reach bottom of Hornbein at 26,000 ft at 4 pm and biv there; instead of this, he quit at 1:30 pm in rocks at c24,500 ft. From that point on Ruth worried. Plan was that 2nd day he'd get up at midnight, start climb at 2:00 am and summit 12:00. 1:00 pm down to tent at bottom of Hornbein but on 20th no sign of 11:00 am when just at top of Japanese Couloir at most at 25,000 ft. At 25,500 ft at 1:30 pm he sat down and didn't get up for very long time. Others saw him pitch tent at 25,500-25,800ft. 19th Ruth to 19,500 ft and slept there alone. 20th 3:00 pm Ruth down to US camp knowing Roger in trouble. 21st at 1st light saw tent Roger at same spot at 25,500 ft. 6:00 am she left for lake camp and saw Roger moving, coming down. For 1-1/2 hours couldn't see him but 8:30 am saw him came out of rocks into snow. Ruth headed back up to 19,500 ft to where Roger would arrive. 9:30 am passed US camp and all agreed he was coming down strong. At 11:10 am Ruth arrived at ABC and looks with binoculars and sees Roger's body at 20,500 ft. Ruth tears up telling herself it was a rock and Roger just behind the next rise - trail flagged with bamboo poles - hoped he at US C1. She had to climb steep snow came at top of which was Roger and saw he was badly smashed up. She did not go nearer but turned down to US camp and then on to her own camp to which Pasang would arrive next day. Roger had cerebral edema Ruth believes Pasang and 2 Sherpas from US expedition went up to Roger, straightened him up (neck, arm, etc broken) and put him into at bottom of Japanese Couloir. Sherpas took out Roger's camera and photographed his body before putting him in. 

  When Ruth was near him she saw trail of Roger's fall just before he would start down climbing below ice - fell 500-1000 ft. Must have had edema to have made mistake: Roger very cautious and expert. Roger decides on 17th May to start up earlier than planned start of 25th May. He was impatient and by incredible pressure to get climb over with, with obsession to do climb. Think Roger stayed 2nd night where he did because couldn't go down and hoped to solve problem by going up - pack when found no food, gear, only camera and clothing; had ice tools and ski pole with him.

  Before push Roger had climbed 6800m peak near BC and was 3rd trip to ABC on summit push.

  Roger had originally thought to climb at night and rest in day as Loretan and Troillet in 1986 but this May there wasn't the snow as last August and difficulty of climb without snow (with only base rock and blue ice only) made him change plan and climb in daylight.


  Simonson, US Everest - 1 June 87

  Roger Marshall didn't know what he was doing. He was surprised at lack of snow, which is normal in spring, had parachute along for his descent but had never used one before (did not actually take it with him on ascent) had no other coherent plan for his descent (said maybe would come down US route but didn't ask permission), had ice tools in his pack when he fell 100 ft down ice using only ski poles at that point.


  Mark Sprigett - 1 May 87
   
  Roger Marshall on Everest

  Snowed heavily 27th April - 1 ft at lake camp - clearing up fast but than yesterday heavy rain from Nyalam to Khasa yesterday which probably set back progress in making ABC 2 or 3 days. Blue ice Japanese Couloir and rock in Hornbein. 

  Sprigett left Roger's BC early yesterday morning (is at Star till 4 May when leaves for BKK) - went to BC with Marshall.

accidents:
  Marshall fell 150-300m down the N Face of Everest on May 21 as he was descending from an unsuccessful bid to reach the top; from below seemed to be going well at first, but at about 11am his body was seen at about 6250m


expid: EVER87103
peakid: EVER
year: 1987
route1: SW Face (Bonington 1972 rte) (to 8250m)
route2: SW Face (Bonington 1975 rte) (to 7900m)
route3: S Pillar-S Col (to 7900m)
nation: Czechoslovakia
leaders: Ivan Galfy
sponsor: Czechoslovak Everest Expedition 1987
bcdate: 1987-03-26
smtdate: 1987-04-25
termdate: 1987-05-29
termnote: Abandoned at 8250m due to high winds, lack of Sherpa support, and end of permit's period of time
accidents: None except much chest infection
agency: Himalayan Explorers
campsites:
  BC(26/03,5350m),C1(02/04,6050m),C2(15/04,6400m),C3(15/04,6900m),C4(18/04,7200m),C5(14/05,7950m),C6(22/05,8200m),xxx(25/05,8250m)

routememo:
  BC at 5350m at bottom of Khumbu Icefall
  C1 at 6050m at top of Icefall
  C2 at 6400m in Western Cwm left side at bottom of SW Face
  C3 at 6900m at same as Bonington C4 in 1975
  C4 at 7200m at same as  "        C4 in 1975
  C5 at 7950m at 2 pitches higher than Bonington 1972
  C6 at 8200m at last camp of Bonington 1972
  High point on face.

  In BC decided to climb only one route because many members sick and it was extremely important to have success for one. Galfy in politics of Czechoslovak sports and 4 members authorized for alpine-style ascent on Bonington 1975 route (reached only 7900m). Main group climbed mostly on Bonington 1972 route (except in between C4 and C5 to right of great gully) and reached 8250m.

  At end of May, 1 member alone to S Col to try to get someone to top but terrible winds drove him back. 3 others went to S Pillar and slept in Spaniards' C4. 

  By all routes it was wind that drove would be summiters back. In addition climbers in C6 were exhausted from long time at high altitude without O2 and no Sherpa support. Only one Sherpa went as far as C2 while others went home early; in last week of May, members started leaving BC to go to KTM with only 4 left on 30 May, because of transport problem.

  4 members who attempted alpine-style ascent via 1975 route were the only ones who had been to 8000m summits before: Becik, Bozik, Rokancaj and Stejskal.


expid: EVER87104
peakid: EVER
year: 1987
route1: S Pillar (Polish route to C1)
nation: Spain
leaders: Juan Jose San Sebastian
sponsor: Everest 1987
countries: Italy
bcdate: 1987-04-02
smtdate: 1987-05-21
termdate: 1987-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 8200m due to wind and lack of time
othersmts: Kalapattar only
accidents: Tamayo frostbite of feet
agency: Everest Trekking
campsites:
  BC(02/04,5350m),C1(05/04,6050m),C2(08/04,6400m),C3(26/04,7350m),C4(19/05,7900m),Biv(20/05,8150m),xxx(21/05,8200m)

routememo:
  BC at bottom of of Khumbu Icefall
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 at 6400m in Western Cwm
  High point at 8150-8200m at 20m above bivouac.

  C2 tents broken by wind and new camp 50m lower than original 6400m on 10th April and C3 broken twice before 26th April and problem to make space for camp with no snow on bare rock. These problems consumed much time. Fixed 1200m of fixed rope to C4 but none above (and used old ropes found in place; C2 to C3 entirely new; above C3 some Polish, etc. rope). 

  On 20th May summit bid attempted by Tamayo and San Sebastian, made biv at 8200m and stayed 2 nights waiting for high up winds to drop and De Stefani to finish filming and bring food. Also being affected by altitude and needed help to go down from C4, which reached 22 May very tired and confused. 2nd summit party [Portilla and Trabado] had to turn down to help them instead of trying for top. 

  Again summit bid on 27th May by Portilla and Trabado who went to C4 but very strong winds turned them back and did not sleep there (down to BC same day). 

  By now only 2 men on mountain, Sherpas moving down and only 5 members in BC only.

  Parachute not used - too much wind.


expid: EVER87105
peakid: EVER
year: 1987
route1: N Col-N Face (Great Couloir)
nation: Spain
leaders: Mari Abrego Santesteban
sponsor: Spanish Mount Everest Expedition 1987 (Basques)
bcdate: 1987-04-07
smtdate: 1987-05-23
termdate: 1987-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to snow conditions and wind
accidents: None except Abrego mild illness
campsites:
  BC(earlyApr,5150m),C1(5400m),C2(5800m),C3.ABC(6400m),C4(7000m),C5(7500m),C6(23/05,8000m),xxx(23-25/05,8000m)

routememo:
  Basques put their camps in same as Swedes and had same number of camps. Reached C6 only once, on 23rd May stayed 2 nights, then down because of bad snow conditions (loose new snow on packed snow in couloir) and strong winds. Climb finished now as Abrego was completely exhausted (had been sick with fever and cold) and had to be protected by Casimiro all the way down to ABC (had no one helping them). Yaks to ABC carrying loads. 

  Basques climbed on Swedes' permit but considered themselves and were considered by Swedes to be separate expedition. There was no exchange of supplies between them.


expid: EVER87101
peakid: EVER
year: 1987
route1: N Col-N Face (Great Couloir)-W Ridge
nation: Sweden
leaders: Ebbe Whalund
sponsor: Swedish Mount Everest Expedition 1987
bcdate: 1987-03-16
smtdate: 1987-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 8650m due to winds
achievment: 1st Swedish attempt
agency: Nepal Himal
campsites:
  BC(16/03,5150m),C1(23/03,5400m),C2(5800m),C3.ABC(28/03,6400m),C4(earlyApr,7000m),C5(19/05,7500m),C6(20/05,8000m),xxx(21/05,8650m)

routememo:
  BC at 5150m at Rongbuk (classical area - normal site today)
  C1 at 5400m at Rongbuk Glacier
  C2 at 6800m at Rongbuk Glacier
  C3.ABC at 6400m at Rongbuk Glacier, highest yak point in bad spot
      (not well protected from wind naturally)
  C4 early April at 7000m at North Col
  C5 at 7500m on N Ridge
  C6 at 8000m at Great Col
  High point at top of yellow band and onto snowfield.

  Route attempted was same as that of Reinhold Messner in 1980 via the North Col, North Face and Great Couloir. But the Swedes failure to get much above the yellow band was due, according to a member, Hans Lagerhorn, to three mistakes: (1) ABC should have been placed on a site better protected from the winds, which blew it away in mid-May; (2) C6 should not have been pitched at only 8000m, but at 8150m, where team had originally planned to put it, but the first summit-attack team did not have the strength to get it so high -- they should not have done all the lead climbing, but one of their members, Lars Cronlund, did reach the expedition's highest point; and (3) the second summit team had enough manpower and time to move the camp higher but failed to do so.

  Made rapid progress to N Col. Then C5 only in mid-May because of winds and very cold. ABC completely blown away in 1st half May and had to retreat. 1st summit attempt on 21st; had traversed from C5 to Great Couloir as per Messner route to C6. On 21st reached 8650m by Gronland who started up with Americans and he turned back because oxygen ran out; had done lead climbing on rock band and turned up his flow of oxygen; back to C6 and next day down to N Col and lower. 

  2nd and last summit bid by Malmsten and Tenzing Sherpa, who started from C6 on 23 May, day after 30cm new snow and windy: at 2am left camp and in knee-deep loose snow gained 300 vertical meters in 9 hrs, so at 11 am stopped and rested long time. Knew before they started up it was known theirs would be last attempt because would take another week to get more oxygen and other supplies up. Yaks and trucks are arriving at BC. In descent moved very slowly, trying to take down too much gear. 

  1 member spent entire night pacing back and forth till collapsed in morning and lay under rock; very luckily Sirdar Nawang saw him collapse and he could be found and brought down with no frostbite at all. Tenzing had made biv and got frostbitten fingers which will heal.

  Degerfel used special wing-type parachute from N Col to almost ABC on 22 May. Expedition failed to reach summit because of 3 mistakes:

  1. ABC should have been placed in better protected site.
  2. C4 should have been placed at 8150m as planned but did not have strength.
     1st team should not have done all lead climbing. 
  3. 2nd summit team had manpower and time to move it up but did not do so.
     Higher C6 could have meant summit success.

  Only 2 days of really good weather with negligible wind and clear skies.

  Two Sherpas got mild frostbite and then stayed at BC. Only 4 Sherpas available for high climbing because of this and illness.


  David Breashears - 30 Apr 1987
  Swedes on Everest

  Made normal steady progress to N Col. David was with 1st team to Col late March using Chilean fixed ropes all way to Col.

  All then descended, leaving some members at ABC and rest to BC puja on auspicious day, 2 or 3 April.

  Early April high winds 4-5 days. At ABC destroyed 2-3 several tents and both tents at Col. ABC collapsed and all from Col and ABC down.

  BC - 5150m (site of US hang-glider team: east side of glacier)
  C1 - old British C1 - 5300m
  C2 - lost autumn's yak camp - 5800m
  C3 - 6000-6000m - used by yak herder and members
  ABC - 6300-6400m
  C4 - 7000m, 10m below Col on leeward side

  On 24 April tried to go to C5 and got to 7300-7400m and then turned back by high winds and col. Are going over to Great Col at about 7900m.

  Plan: 
  C6 at 8000-8100m
  C5 at 7600-7700m

  As of 27 April Breashears had high point on mountain 7750m; last American's C5 on 21 or 22 April.

  So on 27 Apr all Sherpas had moved to Col and 3-4 members at col to fix route to C5 and stocking it (with supplies from US C5).

  Several members cracked ribs from cough.

accidents:
  1 member broke leg in 20m fall at 7600m 12th April [?] resulting in severe toes and fingers frostbite


