# exped

expid: EVER13105
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Mexico
leaders: David Liano
sponsor: Double Summit to Everest (S & N)
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2013-04-12
smtdate: 2013-05-11
smttime: 0805
termdate: 2013-05-12
othersmts: Summited Lobuche East and Everest north side (EVER-131-04)
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),C1(19/04,6000m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3(29/04,7300m),C4(10/05,7900m),Smt(11/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  14 Apr  5350m
  C1  19 Apr  6000m
  C2  23 Apr  6400m
  C3  29 Apr  7300m
  C4  10 May  7900m
  Smt 11 May  by David Liano Gonzalez and Samden Bhote at 8:05 am.

  On the 9th and 10th of May, a large Sherpa crew begun to fix all the route to summit, from C2 to the Balcony on the 9th, from C4 to the summit on the 10th.

  David Liano started to climb on the 9th of May, reaching C4 on the 10th where he didn't sleep, climbing all night from 11 pm and summiting the day after at 8:05 am (9 hours up). He spent about 1/2 hour on the summit and was back the same day at C2 around 6:30 pm. The day after, David Liano left C2 at 5 am for BC then flew back to Kathmandu by helicopter (arrival around 3 pm).

  David Liano reports he and his Sherpa had no tracks remaining from the Sherpa team before them, having knee-deep snow from 150 meters below the Balcony up to the summit (the section from South Summit to the top was completely covered with snow, rendering it much easier). WNW wind was quite strongly blowing all the time above C4, in an average of 50/60 km/h up to 80 km/h speed (wind gusts).

  He didn't see any Sherpa team coming from Tibet side on the 11th of May (they should have done officially the same then on south side that day for putting fixed rope).

  According to the weather forecast (wind should dramatically decrease from 15th of May), Melissa Arnot should summit around 16th of May, then most of the team should follow between 17 and 19th of May. However two people tried to summit today (from Himalayan Guides).

  David Liano holds a Spanish passport allowing him to be insured in case of emergency, as there is absolutely no official consulate or embassy in Kathmandu for Mexico.

  On 13 April David Liano planned to travel to Tibet via Kodari to join north side Everest base camp. He plans to summit around 19th and should be back in Kathmandu around 24/25 May.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to summit to C2 by Liano
    Taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 by Samden

  Sherpa: 
    Samden Bhote, Hatiya, Makalu Barun, 25/07/1979


expid: EVER13106
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Umesh Zirpe
sponsor: Giripremi Lhotse Everest 2013
bcdate: 2013-04-12
smtdate: 2013-05-17
smttime: 0745
termdate: 2013-05-21
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-131-02)
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),C1(23/04,6100m),C2(28/04,6500m),C3(14/05,7000m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  The five-member team reached C3 on the West Face of Lhotse on 14 May. From there, Mane with two Sherpas, Lhakpa Dorje and Pasang, went for the summit of Lhotse while the other four members went to the South Col and their C4 there for Everest. Mane and his Sherpas made the final camp for Lhotse at 7800m on 15 May, left the camp at 2:00 am the next day (the 16th) and summited at 7:24 am. They descended to C2 in the Western Cwm (6500m) at 3:00 pm.

  Meanwhile on the 16th the other members, Harse, Mali, More and Zirpe, plus five Sherpas were poised in their C4 at the South Col at 8:00 pm that evening for Everest's summit. But Zirpe decided not to make a summit bid because of the wind; he did not go above C4, and one Sherpa, Pemba Rinzi, stayed with him; they went down to C2. The rest of their summit party went up to the top at 7:45 am and returned to C4 at 1:00 pm. They were Harshe, Mali, More, Kami, Nurbu, Dakipa and Dawa Gyalzen. They encountered strong wind on a clear day.

  Everyone was back in BC on the 18th. Zirpe and Kami flew to Kathmandu by helicopter because Kami fell from C3 for 15-20 feet down the West Face of Lhotse on the 17th. No bones were broken, but he was so badly bruised that he could not stand up; he spent that night in hospital, by the 22nd had fully recovered.

  Oxygen:
    Used by members climbing above C3 to their summits and back to (but not in) C4.
    The Sherpas were on oxygen from C4 to their summits to and in C4.

  Sherpas:
    Dakipa Sherpa, 6/12/83, Kurima, Lokhim, Solu, Everest X2
    Dawa Gyalzen Sherpa, 21/8/87, Chheplung, Chaurikharka-3, Solu, Everest X3
    Kami Sherpa, 28/8/62, Bagam, Kerung, Solu, Everest X10, Cho Oyu X1, Dhaula X1
    Nurbu Bhote Lama, 29/5/81, Hatiya-1, Makalu, Everest X5
    Pemba Rinzi Sherpa, 10/1/76, Bishinga, Okhaldhunga, Everest X3, Dhaula X13


expid: EVER13107
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Peru
leaders: Richard Hidalgo
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Everest Expedition 2013
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2013-04-15
smtdate: 2013-05-20
termdate: 2013-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to bad weather and fatigue
campsites: BC(15/04,5350m),C1(20/04,6000m),C2(21/04,6400m),C3(29/04,7300m),C4(20/05,7900m),xxx(20/05,7900m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Hidalgo arrived at C4 at 6 pm after 10 hours from C3. He carried everything himself. He was too late to try for 21 May summit. He stayed the night, but as the weather turned bad at 3 pm, he decided to leave. At 5 pm he left C4, packed up C3 and arrived at C2 at 9 pm. On 22 May to BC.


expid: EVER13109
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Dean Staples
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Everest Expedition 2013
countries: Australia, Austria, Iceland, Sweden, USA, Venezuela
approach: Pangboche->Island Peak
bcdate: 2013-04-14
smtdate: 2013-05-19
smttime: 0130
termdate: 2013-05-24
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-131-28)
campsites: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(24/04,6000m),C2(25/05,6400m),C3(16/05,7200m),C4,17/05,8000m),Smt(19-21/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Adventure Consultants Everest Expedition 2013 led by Dean Staples

  Two members of the expedition were semi-indepedent: Mike Roberts, a veteran Adventure Consultants Everest leader, and his personal client, Jose Luis Davilla. They had their own time table and a Sherpa assigned to them, but they were somewhat dependent on the main Everest team under Dean Staples' leadership, and when Roberts' client left early, Roberts and their Sherpa stayed on, summited Everest, and went over to Lhotse, on which another Adventure Consultants expedition was climbing under the leadership of Guy Cotter. 

  Expedition personnel summited Everest on four dates. First were four Sherpas who joined other expeditions men in fixing ropes, and they completed the job to the summit on 10 May. They were Dawa Jangbu, Kami Rita, Pemba Chhoti and Sange Dorje, each of whom had been to the top seven or more times before [Kami Rita and Sange Dorje summited, Dawa Jangbu and Pemba Chhoti went to C3 in support].

  The next was Michael Roberts, who summited on the 19th with Tendi Sherpa. Then Mark Whetu, a professional cameraman, making a film of the climb, went to the top on 20 May with two Sherpas, Lhakpa Dorje and Ang Phurba.

  Finally it was the turn of a larger group of members and Sherpas, although by now some members had dropped out. Cross fell and broke her hand while moving through the Icefall on 17 April. Davilla left in early May with a sore foot and for other reasons. Mariusson left on 10 May because he was not acclimatizing to Khumbu's high altitude.

  On 21 May nine members and 18 Sherpas went to the summit. The successful members were Bradey, Crane, Gissuarsson, Gower, Hall, Josef Hochmeister, Lukas Hochmeister, Staples and Stromstadt. With them were Ang Gelu, Ang Ngwang, Chhewang, Chhuldim, Chhuldim Dorje, Dawa Jangbu (again), Datuk Bhote, Dendi, Kaji, Kami Rita (again), Lhakpa, Mingmar, Pemba Chhoti (again), Phurba Chhoter, Phurba Tenji, Phur Temba, Rinji and Sange Dorje (again). This group summited around 6 am.

  [Note: Crane, Hall, Chhuldim Dorje, Kami Rita, Sange Dorje reported to have summited at 4:15 am.]

  All members and Sherpas were back in BC on the 23rd.

  [After summiting Everest, Staples and Stromstadt returned to C4, rested for 16 hours, then summited Lhotse at 10 am on May 22.]

  The members were on bottled oxygen from C3 to the top and back to C3. The Sherpas followed the usual Sherpa pattern, from C4 to summit to C4.

  Sherpa Summiters:
    Ang Gelu Sherpa, 28/4/86, Phedi-9, Khotang, Everest X3
    Ang Ngwang Sherpa [aka Nawang Shera, 10/1/88 (26/9/2044), Sanam, Gudel-4, Solu]
    Ang Phurba Sherpa, 25/11/85, Khembalung, Yaphu-9, Everest X1, Manaslu X2
    Chhewang Rinzing Sherpa [2/8/71, Taksindu]
    Chhuldim Sherpa, 26/11/63, Khumjung, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X6
    Dawa Jangbu Sherpa, 24/4/713, Pangboche, Everest X10, Cho Oyu X1
    Datuk Bhote, 20/10/88, Chepuwa-4, Makalu, Everst X1
    Dendi Sherpa, 32 years old, Taksindu, Solu
    Kaji Sherpa
    Kami Rita Sherpa, 22/10/77, Thami, Everest X11
    Lhakpa Sherpa, 20/6/75, Sotang-6, Solu, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1
    Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa, 16/11/61, Sanam, Gudel, Solu, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X4,
      Lhotse X1, Kang X1, Makalu X3
    Mingmar Sherpa, Taksindu, Solu
    Namgyal Sherpa, 25/9/71, Khiraunle, Bung-9, Solu, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X4
    Pasang Bhote, 19/5/86, 30/11/73, Chepuwa, Makalu, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X5
    Pemba Chhoti Sherpa, 25/11/72, Thami, Everest X9
    Phurba Chhoter Sherpa [20/08/1971, Yilajung]
    Phurba Ongyal Sherpa, 26/5,88, Pangboche, Khumbu
    Phurba Tenji Sherpa
    Phur Temba Sherpa [24/6/89, Yaphu-9, Makalu-Barun]
    Rinji Sherpa, 26/7/75, Gorakhani-5, Solu, Everest X1
    Sange Dorje Sherpa, 14/4/78, Khumjung, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X2
    Tendi Sherpa, 13/10/68, Sanam, Gudel, Solu, Everest X1


  Mike Roberts and Tendi Sherpa on both Everest and Lhotse:

  Roberts and Davila went to the bergschrund on 1st acclimatization rotation. They wanted to touch C3 on 28 April, but the rope fixing was stopped due to a fight between Ueli Steck and Simone Moro and Sherpas. Once back at BC, Davila had foot pain due to bad boots; on top of that he had to go back to Venezuela for political reasons. He never went back up. Roberts decided to stay and climb Everest and Lhotse.

  Roberts and Tendi Sherpa had arrived at the South Cl on 17th May at around 12:30 pm, intending to summit on the 18th May. However, the winds were too high and they decided to wait for another night. On 18 May, they left at 7:30 pm with a lot of other people. They passed about 60 people in the first half hour. It was a calm night and a straightforward climb. The summited at 1:30 am and spent about half an hour on the summit trying to get a flash picture on the summit, but it did not work out. They descended to the South Col, where they arrived at 4:30 am and stayed there until 20th May at 6:30 am. During his time at the South Col, Mike Roberts was trying to help mobilise Sherpas for the rescue of Mr. Lee from Taiwan, who was at C4 on Lhotse.

  Roberts and Tendi left the South Col at 6:30 am on 20 May to get to C4 of Lhotse where they arrived at about 7:45 am. They joined Kenton Cool, who had been trying to save the life of the Taiwanese climber, Mr. Lee, however, when Tendi and Roberts arrived, he had just died. Roberts went back down to the junction, where he had left a duffle bag and sorted out some gear and left the junction at 8:30 am to go for the summit. He stopped at Cool's camp for a drink and left 5 minutes ahead of Cool.

  Lhotse summit: 20 May at 12:45 pm by Roberts and Tendi Sherpa.

  They spent about 10 minutes on the summit. It was very cloudy and they could not see much. They descended to the junction, where they repacked their duffle bag again and descended to C2, where they arrived at 6 pm. The following day BC.

  Oxygen:
    C3 to Everest summit to South Col to Lhotse summit to C3 by Roberts and
      Tendi Sherpa

  Sherpa:
    Tendi Sherpa, 13/10/68, Sanam, Gudel, Solu


expid: EVER13111
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Wangchen Sonam
sponsor: Holy Mountain Adventure Everest Expedition 2013
smtdate: 2013-05-10
campsites: Smt(10,17/05)
agency: Holy Mountain Adventure
routememo:
  According to Holy Mountain web site, 7 members from Group A summited on May 17 at 12:35 CST. Xia Jian-Feng suffered HACE at 8650m in descent and was rescued by 10 members from Group B waiting at C3 (8300m) for their summit bid on May 18. Because of rescue efforts, their summit plans were canceled.

  Group A:
    Li Xing (summited at 12:35 CST)
    Zhang Liang
    Xia Jian-Feng (summited at 12:35 CST) (AMS in descent)
    Li Hong-Hai (summited at 12:35 CST)
    Dai Da-Wei (summited at 12:35 CST)
    Cao Jun (summited at 12:35 CST)
    Fang Lu (summited at 12:35 CST)
    Yu Liang (summited at 12:35 CST)

  Group B:
    Liang Li-Fang
    Li Jun
    Feng Wei
    Xiao Yi-Jun
    Gu Bing
    Yang Yue-Jun
    Zheng Hui-Yi
    Gao Zhi
    Zhang Shou-Ping
    Li Xing

  Huang Nu-Bo summited independently on 17 May at 13:30 CST (his 3rd summit).

  Photos show 7 of 9 members with summit certificates.

  Xia Jian-Feng summited with Phuntsok (35) and Phurbu Tsering (26) – Phuntsok made call for assistance.

  Tashi Phuntsok led rescue effort from C3 (included Kelsang Dorje, Gyalbu, Dorje Tsering & Tashi Tsering) 

  Rope team included Chimi Tashi, Dorje Tsering, Tashi Phuntsok) (May 10?)

  Nawang Dorje (28), Chimi Tashi, Dorje Tsering summited with Group A

  Did Tashi Tsering summit with rope team or Group A?

  Chimi Tashi and Dorje Tsering summited twice this season (rope team and Group A)


expid: EVER13112
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Africa
leaders: Ronnie Muhl
sponsor: South Africa/USA Everest Expedition
countries: France, India, USA
bcdate: 2013-04-11
smtdate: 2013-05-17
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2013-05-24
campsites: BC(11/04,5350m),C1(24/04,6000m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(01/05,7300m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(17,21-22/05)
agency: Dream Himalaya Adventures (Dawa from Arun Treks)
routememo:
  Summit 17 May by Skar and Nima Gyalgen at 8 am:

  On 16 May summit team and Olivier Thomas left C4 at 8 pm. Weather was cold and windy until the Balcony, where the winds died down. Thomas turned back at the Balcony due to very cold hands at around midnight. He descended to C2 the same day.

  Summit team carried on. They reached the summit at 8 am and stayed for about 10 minutes. It was very windy. They descended to C4, where they arrived at about 4:30 pm. The following day they descended to BC.

  Summit 21 May by Miranda and Dawa Jangbu at 10:30 am:

  Summit team left C4 at 8 pm on 20 May. Perfect weather with a lot of people on the route. Straightforward climb. They spent one hour on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 5 pm. On 22 May they descended all the way to BC.

  Summit 22 May by Rajeev, Saumitra, Da Chhemba and Lhakpa Nuru at 11:30 am:

  Summit team left C4 at 8:30 pm. Perfect weather conditions. Very slow, but straightforward climb. They spent about 15 minutes on the summit as it started snowing a bit. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 8:30 pm. On 23 May they descended to C2 and the following day to BC.

  On 23 May, Thomas Olivier tried again to summit, but only reached the Balcony due tho health issues with his Sherpa Pasang, which made him turn back. They descended to base camp the same day.

  Muhl reached C3 on 5 May on their first summit attempt. He felt very tired between C1 and C2 and decided that he was too slow and that he was worried that it would happen again. He thought that it would be safer to look after his team from BC.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C3 to summit to C3 by members
    Taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 by Sherpas

  Sherpas:
    Nima Gyalzen, 22/4/80, Kharikhola, Solu
    Dawa Jangbu, 28/4/86, Thami, Khumbu
    Da Chhemba, 2/3/68, Gudel, Solu
    Lhakpa Nuru, 30/11/87, Gudel-5, Solu


expid: EVER13113
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Tim Mosedale
sponsor: Tim Mosedale's Everest Expedition 2013
countries: Australia, France, Macedonia
approach: Pokalde
bcdate: 2013-04-20
smtdate: 2013-05-13
smttime: 0530
termdate: 2013-05-25
campsites: BC(20/04,5350m),C1(24/04,6050m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(10/05,7300m),C4(11/05,7900m),Smt(13,19,23/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  20 Apr  5350m
  C1  24 Apr  6050m
  C2  26 Apr  6400m
  C3  10 May  7300m
  C4  11 May  7900m
  Smt 13 May  by Mosedale, Lhakpa at 7 am, Booth and Chewang Dorje at 5:30 am
  Smt 19 May  by Gupta, Chayang Jangbu at 2:50 am
  Smt 23 May  by Mosedale (again), Arsova, Wyatt, Kaji Sherpa, Pasang Gyaljen and
              Chayang Jangbu (again) at 3 am.

  13 May summit team left C4 at 9 am. It was cold and windy. The conditions were challenging, but otherwise straightforward climb. They only stayed on the summit for 5 minutes as it was cold and windy. By the time Mosedale got to the summit there was no view; Booth had a clear panorama. They descended to C4 where they arrived between 10 am and 11:30 am. They stayed the night and descended to C2 on 14 May. On 15 May back to BC. Booth left BC the same day by helicopter.

  19 May summit team left C4 at 8 pm on 18 May. About 150 people on route. They were quicker than they thought and summitted in the dark. They only spent 5 minutes on the summit as there was no view. They descended to C2, where they arrived at about 2 pm. On 20 May to BC. Gupta left BC 21 May and trekked to Lukla.

  23 May summit team left C4 at 8 pm on 22 May. Weather was clear and still. A slight breeze at the South Summit. They were too fast and summited in the dark. Spent about 10 minutes on the summit. They descended to C4, where they arrived at about 6 am. They rested until 9 am and descended to C2, where they arrived at 1:30 pm.

  Leonard reached C4 on 22 May. He thought it was too windy to summit and stayed at C4 until the summit team came back.

  Valliant reached the Yellow Band on 22 May at about 7500m. He turned back due to exhaustion and descended to C2. To BC on 24 May. Left BC on 25 May.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to summit to C3 by members
    Taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 by Sherpas

  Sherpas:
    Chewang Dorje, 17/4/81, Pangboche
    Lhakpa Sherpa, 1977, Kerung-3, Solukhumbu
    Chayang Jangbu (Chhyang Jyalbu) Bhote, 29/10/79, Hatiya-1, Makalu-Barun
    Kaji Sherpa, Gorkhali-8, Okhaldhunga
    Pasang Gyaljen, 2/6/85 (2042/2/20), Jubing-1


expid: EVER13114
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Carlos Pauner
sponsor: Spanish Everest 2013
countries: Andorra
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2013-04-15
smtdate: 2013-05-22
smttime: 0430
termdate: 2013-05-25
campsites: BC(15/04,5350m),C2(22/04,6400m),C3(04/05,7300m),C4(31/05,7900m),Smt(22/05)
accidents: Slight frostbite to Martinez
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  15 Apr  5350m
  C1  --     6000m
  C2  22 Apr  6400m
  C3  04 May  7300m
  C4  21 May  7900m
  Smt 22 May  by Pauner, Trastoy, Jangbu, Kami Chiri at 4:30 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 8 pm on 21 May. It was snowing and a bit windy. Straightforward climb. They stayed about 45 minutes on the summit, then descended to C2, where they arrived at 5 pm. On 23 May to base camp. 

  Martinez reached C3 on 20 May. He had problems with his feet [slight frostbite] and decided not to go further up. He descended to BC when the other two ascended to C4 at 6 am. He descended all the way to BC the same day.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to summit to C3 by members
    Taken and used from Yellow Band (7600m) to summit to 7600m by Sherpas

  Sherpas:
    Kami Chhiri, Bupsa, Jubing-5, 29/8/82 (13/5/2035), Everest X4
    Jangbu, Kharikhola, Jubing-1, 29 yrs old, Everest X7


expid: EVER13116
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Argentina
leaders: Ursula Diaz
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Everest Expedition 2013
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2013-04-09
smtdate: 2013-05-18
smttime: 0540
termdate: 2013-05-20
campsites: BC(09/04,5350m),C1(30/04,6000m),C2(01/05,6400m),C3(16/05,7300m),C4(17/05,7900m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  09 Apr  5350m
  C1  30 Apr  6000m
  C2  01 Apr  6400m
  C3  16 May  7300m
  C4  17 May  7900m
  Smt 18 May  by Diaz, Mingma Sherpa at 5:40 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 8:30 pm on 17 May and it was very windy. Diaz had problems on Hillary Step as the rope was being blown around. They summited at 5:40 am and spent about 15 minutes on the summit, then descended to C3, where they arrived at 3 pm. On 19 May they descended to BC.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from 7600m to top to 8100m by Diaz 
    Taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 by Mingma

  Sherpa:
    Mingma, Makalu


expid: EVER13117
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Woo Seok-Ju
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Everest Expedition 2013
bcdate: 2013-04-09
smtdate: 2013-05-20
smttime: 1020
termdate: 2013-05-24
campsites: BC(09/04,5350m),C2(03/05,6400m),C3(04/05,7300m),C4(19/05,7900m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Team left C4 at 8:22 pm on 19 May. Weather was clear. It was a straightforward climb. Stayed 1/2 hour on summit. Little traffic jam on descent. They descended to C4. It started snowing and it got cloudy. Arrived at 5 pm. On 21 May reached C2 and on 22 May arrived BC.

  Sherpa:
    Nima Ongdi, 19/2/79, Balakharka, Makalu


expid: EVER13118
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Portugal
leaders: Maria Do Ceu Da Conceicao
sponsor: Maria Do Ceu Da Conceicao Everest
countries: India
bcdate: 2013-04-10
smtdate: 2013-05-21
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2013-05-24
campsites: BC(10/04,5350m),C1(6000m),C2(27/04,6400m),C3(19/05,7300m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(21/05)
achievment: 1st Portuguese woman
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  10 Apr  5350m
  C1  --      6000m
  C2  27 Apr  6400m
  C3  19 May  7300m
  C4  20 May  7900m
  Smt 21 May  by Da Conceicao and Sange at 9:30 am.

  Team left C4 at 8:30 pm on 20 May. The weather was good during ascent. They summited at 9:30 am and spent about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 3 pm. They had been planning to carry on to C2; however, the weather had deteriorated and they stayed at C4. C2 on 22 May and BC on 23 May.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to summit to C4 by Da Conceicao
    Taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 by Sange

  Sherpa:
    Sangay Phuri

  Satyabrata Dam was acting as a guide for Maria Da Conceicao.


expid: EVER13120
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Greg Michalek
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Everest Expedition 2013
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2013-04-19
smtdate: 2013-05-17
termdate: 2013-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to strong winds
campsites: BC(19/04,5350m),C1(30/05,6000m),C2(01/05,6400m),C3(16/05,7100m),C4(17/05,7900m),xxx(17/05,8300m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  High point team left C4 at 8:30 pm on 17 May. When they reached 8300m at 10 pm, Michalek (who is a mountain rescuer) thought the wind was too strong, so they descended to C4 and arrived at midnight. On 18 May descended to C2, arrived at 2 pm; on 19 May to BC.

  Michalek's objective was to reach the biggest altitude difference between the deepest cave at 2080m (below sea level) and highest point. He reached 10,380m which is the current world record.

  Sherpa:
    Jangbu Sherpa


expid: EVER13121
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Naoko Watanabe
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Everest Expedition 2013
bcdate: 2013-04-13
smtdate: 2013-05-18
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2013-05-24
campsites: BC(13/04,5350m),C1(26/04,6000m),C2(27/04,6400m),C3(16/05,7300m),C4(17/05,7900m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  13 Apr  5350m
  C1  26 Apr  6000m
  C2  27 Apr  6400m
  C3  16 May  7300m
  C4  17 May  7900m
  HPt 18 May   by Watanabe, Sona Sherpa at 6:30 am.
    
  Summit team left C4 at 8 pm on 17 May. At first it was calm, but the winds picked up at the Hillary Step. Straightforward climb. They summited at 6:30 am and stayed about 30 minutes on the summit, then descended to C3, where they arrived at 6 pm. On 19 May they descended to C2. As Sona Sherpa helped with the rescue of the Taiwanese climber, who later died on Lhotse, they stayed at C2 for 2 nights. On 21 May to BC.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Watanabe
    Taken and used from C4 to top to C4 by Sona

  Sherpa:
    Sona, 26/11/77, Chheskam-2, Solu, Everest X2, Makalu X1


expid: EVER13122
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Pakistan
leaders: Mirza Ali Baig
sponsor: Indo-Pak Gender Equality Everest 2013
countries: India
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2013-04-09
smtdate: 2013-05-19
smttime: 0740
termdate: 2013-05-23
campsites: BC(09/04,5340m),C2(27/04,6400m),C3(17/05,7300m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(19,21/05)
achievment: 1st twin sisters to summit Everest?
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  09 Apr  5350m
  C1  --      6000m
  C2  27 Apr  6500m
  C3  17 May  7110m
  C4  18 May  8000m
  Smt 19 May  by Baig, Lhakpa, Nurbu, Tashi Malik, Nunghsi Malik, Mingma Tenzing
              and Mingma Dorjee (Makalu Twins), Mingma Gyabu at 7:40 am
  Smt 21 May  by Sanju, Nima Dorjee at 10:20 am.

  19 May summit team and Mirza Ali Baig left C4 at 7:30 pm on 18 May. When Mirza and Samina reached 8600m he saw that his sister was going strong and did not need him.  His main goal was to support his sister. He had initially planned to climb without oxygen, but his sister begged him to use it, so he did not see any point in carrying on. He turned back at 3 am and let his sister go on without him. He descended to C4, where he arrived at about 3:45 am.

  Rest of the team continued and stayed 15 minutes on summit. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 1:30 pm. Mirza made them some tea and Mirza Ali Baig, Lhakpa and Nurbu descended to C2, where they arrived at 8 pm. Tashi and Nungshi Malik (twin sisters) stayed at C4. On 20 May Mirza Ali Baig, Lhakpa and Nuru rested at C2 and waited for the Malik twins to come down. On 21 May descended to BC.

  21 May summit team left C4 at 8:30 pm. Straightforward climb. Descended to C4, where they stayed the night. 22 May descended to C2, 23 May to BC.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to summit/high point to top to C3
    From C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa
    Mingma Tenzing (twin brother of Mingma Dorje)
    Mingma Dorje (twin brother of Mingma Tenzing)
    Mingma Gyabu 
    Nima Dorje
    [Chhiji] Nurbu


expid: EVER13123
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Singapore
leaders: Swee Chiow Khoo
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Everest Expedition 2013
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2013-04-09
smtdate: 2013-05-17
termdate: 2013-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to throat infection
othersmts: Had permit for Kangchenjunga
campsites: BC(09/04,5350m),C2(27/04,6100m),C3(16/05,7300m),C4(17/05,7900m),xxx(17/05,7900m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  09 Apr  5350m
  C2  27 Apr  6400m
  C3  16 May  7300m
  C4  17 May  7900m
  HPt 17 May  by Khoo, Pema and Pemba at 8 pm.

  Khoo, Pema and Pemba arrived at C4 at 3:30 pm on 17 May and were attempting to summit on 18 May. When they left C4 at about 8 pm on 17 May, Khoo had a bad throat infection and turned back after 30 minutes out of C4. He stayed another night and decided to try again the following day. On 18 May they left C4 at 6:30 pm and the same thing happened again. After 30 minutes Khoo turned back as his throat infection gave him difficulties breathing. On 19 May they left C4 at 8 am and descended to C2. On 20 May to BC.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C3 to C4 to C3 by Khoo, Pema and Pemba

  Sherpas:
    Pema, Makalu
    Pemba, Makalu

  Khoo also intended to climb Kangchenjunga after Everest.


expid: EVER13128
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Paul Noble
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Everest Expedition 2013
countries: Ireland
bcdate: 2013-04-13
smtdate: 2013-05-22
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2013-05-26
campsites: BC(13/04,5250m),ABC(20/04,6400m),C1(04/05,7000m),C2(20/05,7700m),C3(21/05,8300m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  13 Apr  5250m
  ABC 20 Apr  6400m
  C1  04 May  7899m
  C2  20 May  7700m
  C3  21 May  8300m
  Smt 22 May  by Bowerman, Bruce Jones, Gough, Hall-Thompson, Lipscombe, Meskell,
              Noble, Smith, Khazri Dorji, Bhote Phurbu, Ridar, Bhote Lhakpa, Lama
              Pasang, Gurung Anup, Siddhi Bahadur Tamang between 6 am to 8 am.

  Summit team left C3 at 9:30 pm on 21 May. It was windy. About 40 m/ph. Climb was straightforward. They arrived on the summit between 6 am and 8 am. They stayed an average of about 15 minutes on the summit. It was very windy. Good views. Bruce Jones descended to ABC, where he arrived at 4:30 pm. The rest descended to C3, where they arrived between 4 pm and 5 pm. Bowerman started having problems with her eyes at about 7400m and was very slow on the descent. On 22 May to ABC.

  Kerr and Logan reached 7700m on 20 May. Kerr had a hemorrhage and could not carry on. Noble thought that Logan was too slow to climb the mountain and told her to go down. They both went down to ABC on 21 May.

  Hobon reached 7000m on 4 May. He stayed the night there on acclimatization rotation. He was just not strong enough to climb the mountain and abandoned the expedition.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from 7400m to top to 7400m by members
    From 7700m to top to 7400m by Sherpas

  Sherpas:
    Dorje Khatri, 19/12/1968, Lelep-9, Taplejung
    Phurba Ridar Bhote, 1958, Hatiya, Makalu
    Lhakpa Bhote, Hatiya, Makalu
    Pasang Lama Bhote, Hatiya, Makalu, 17/10/84
    Tamang, Siddhi Bahadur, Simigaon, Dolakha, 7/6/1981
    Phurba Ridar Bhote, Hatiya-1, 1958
    Anup Gurung, Swora-5, Gorkha, 26/3/89, 1st time summit


expid: EVER13132
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Somit Joshi
sponsor: SSB (Border Police Force) Mount Everest Expedition 2013
bcdate: 2013-04-15
smtdate: 2013-05-21
smttime: 0945
termdate: 2013-05-27
campsites: BC(15/04,5350m),C1(27/04,6000m),C2(28/04,6500m),C3(09/05,7200m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(21/05)
accidents: Snowblindness for Negi and Chandola
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  SSB = Seema Sastra Bal (Border Police Force)

  BC  15 Apr  5350m
  C1  27 Apr  6000m
  C2  28 Apr  6500m
  C3  04 May  7200m
  C4  20 May  7900m
  Smt 21 May  by Joshi, Chandola, Tame, Negi, Tyagi, Pasang, Dawa Rita, Mingmar 
              Dorje, Pemba Chhiri, Ngima Tashi, Dhan Kubir Rai at 9:45 am.

  Summit team started at 8:30 pm on 20 May. Perfect weather. Waiting time between Balcony and South Summit. Team summited at 9:45 am and spent 2 hours on the summit, then descended to C4, where they arrived at 6 pm. On 22 May they descended to C2, where they arrived at 3 pm. They spent another night at C2 as both Chandola and Negi had slight problems with their eyes. They put some dressing on and they were able to descend to BC on 24 May.

  Parmar reached C2 on 28 April. He stayed for two nights, but was struggling with altitude. He stayed at BC for rest of expedition.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members
    From C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas

  Sherpas:
    Pasang, Jiri, Dolakha, 11/8/75
    Mingmar Dorje, Gudel-9, Solu, 28/6/81
    Dawa Rita, Paiya, Jubing, Solu, 19/11/72
    Pemba Chhiri, Paiya, Jubing, Solu, 10/3/84
    Dhan Kubir Rai, Bung-4, Solu, (2033/10/7) 20/01/77, 1st time smt
    Ngima Tashi, Gudel-4, (2045/8/10) 25/11/88, 1st time smt


expid: EVER13135
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Ecuador
leaders: Ivan Vallejo
sponsor: Ecuadorian Everest
approach: Kodari->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2013-04-15
smtdate: 2013-05-25
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2013-05-28
campsites: BC(15/04,5200m),ABC(20/04,6400m),C1(01/05,7000m),C2(05/05,7800m),C3(24/05,8300m),Smt(25/05)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  BC  15 Apr  5200m
  ABC 20 Apr  6400m
  C1  01 May  7000m
  C2  05 May  7800m
  C3  24 May  8300m
  Smt 25 May  by Mena and Cáceres at 10:30 am, Freire at 8:30 am.

  Caceres and Vallejo left C3 at 1:20 am. Freire, Mena and Perez left at 1 am. It was a bit windy and it was -30C. At 4:30 am they rested when they got to the ridge. When Perez arrived at the 1st Step at 7 pm, she had cold feet and toes and turned back. The others carried on and when they arrived at the 3rd Step, Vallejo decided to turn around at 9:45 pm as his mission was to get Perez to the summit and when she turned back there was no point for him to carry on. When he turned back Freire had already come back from the summit and they continued to C3, where Perez was waiting. It was 3 pm. The three descended to C2, where they arrived at 5 pm. All of them spent about 15 minutes on the summit.

  Mena and Caceres descended to C3, where they arrived at 3 pm and stayed the night.  Vallejo, Freire and Perez had already taken down the tents and the pair stayed in another tent.

  On 26 May Mena and Caceres met the rest of the team at C2, they broke down camp and descended to ABC.

  Oxygen:
    Not used, not taken


expid: EVER13136
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Damian Benegas
sponsor: Benegas Brothers Expeditions (BBE) Everest 2013
countries: Argentina, Brazil
bcdate: 2013-04-13
smtdate: 2013-05-23
smttime: 0515
termdate: 2013-05-26
campsites: BC(13/04,5350m),C1(21/04,6000m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3(21/05,7300m),C4(22/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  BC  13 Apr  5350m
  C1  12 Apr  6000m
  C2  23 Apr  6400m
  C3  21 May  7300m
  C4  22 May  7900m
  Smt 23 May  by Benegas, Dos Reis, Lhakpa Gyalzen, Ang Gyalgen (Rinji) at 5:15 am.

  Summit team and Ribaya with Phura Gyalzen left South Col at 9 pm. It was calm. Not many people on the route. They let the Himex group pass. As they were too fast [to get to the summit at sunrise], they waited at the South Summit, Hillary Step and Bishop Rock to slow down.

  They summited at 5:15 am and spent about 10 minutes on the summit. It was cold and windy. They saw the Bangladeshi dead climber [Mohammad Khaled Hossain] just below the South Summit. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 10:30 am. They rested there until 12 noon and descended to C2, where they arrived at 7 pm. On 24 May to BC.

  Ribaya reached 8300m. He was too tired to carry on and turned back at 11 pm together with Phura Gyalzen. They descended to C4. He waited for the summit team and descended to C2 with them.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to summit to C3 by members and Sherpas

  Sherpas:
    Phura Gyalzen (Phurba Gyalzen), 24/1/84, Pangkoma, Solu
    Ang Gyalzen (Ang Geljen, Rinji), Kharikhola, 24/6/73
    Lhakpa Gyalzen, Paiya, Jubing, Solukhumbu, 20/7/74


expid: EVER13138
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Surjit Singh Leishangthem
sponsor: 1st Northeast India Top of the World Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2013-03-27
smtdate: 2013-05-17
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2013-05-23
campsites: BC(27/03,5350m),C1(19/04,6000m),C2(29/04,6400m),C3(30/04,7300m),C4(16/05,7900m),Smt(17-19,24/05)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  BC  27 Mar  5350m
  C1  19 Apr  6000m
  C2  29 Apr  6400m
  C3  30 Apr  7300m
  C4  16 May  7900m
  Smt 17 May  by Gurung, Nima Lama, Ningthoutam, Mingma Nuru, Ang Phurba,
              Lhakpa Nuru at 8 am
  Smt 18 May  by Jamsenpa, Nameirakpam, Kazi, Zohmangaiha, Saika, Myrthong, Pasang,
              Lhakpa Rangdu, Tshering, Phurba, Lhakpa, Densa at 5:30 am
  Smt 19 May  by Puyumcha, Tenzing Chotar at 8:30 am
  Smt 24 May  by Deka, Lhakpa Nuru, Ang Purba (again) at 6 am.

  17 May summit team left C4 at 10 pm. All members slept at C4 on descent apart from Gurung and Ningthoujam, who descended to C2.

  18 May and 19 May summit teams left C4 at 7:30 pm. All members slept at C4 on descent apart from Nameirakpam, who descended to C2.

  24 May summit team left C4 at 7 pm. They slept at C4 on the descent.

  Athokpam reached C3 on 30 April on acclimatization rotation and 16 May on summit attempt. He had chest pain and decided not to go up any higher.

  Waribam reached C3 on 30 April. When he came down to BC from C3 on 1 May he felt altitude sickness. He was evacuated by helicopter on 2 May.

  Surjit Singh reached C1. He was the leader of the expedition and never intended to summit.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to summit to C3 by members
    Taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 by Sherpas

  Sherpas:
    Mingma Nuru, Thami, Khumbu, 30/12/74
    Lhakpa Nuru, Thami, Khumbu, 22/11/80
    Pasang, Lelep-8,Taplejung, 27/4/78
    Lhakpa Rangdu, Tala Kharka, Sotang, Solu, 18/11/67
    Phurba, Sotang-6, Solu, 17/7/82
    Lhakpa, Lelep-8, Taplejung, 29/5/85
    Densa Bhote, Hungung, Hatiya, Makalu-Barun, 30/10/81
    Tenzing Chhotar, Namche-4, Khumbu, 24/11/89
    Tshering, Namche-7, Khumbu, 27/3/80
    Ang Phurba, Namche-4, Khumbu 1/12/90


expid: EVER13139
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Monique Richard
sponsor: Friendship Everest Expedition 2013
countries: Ireland, Norway, USA
approach: Kodari->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2013-04-19
smtdate: 2013-05-19
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2013-05-23
campsites: BC(19/04,5200m),ABC(20/04,6400m),C1(01/05,7000m),C2(17/05,7700m),C3(18/05,8300m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Himalayan Human Adventure
routememo:
  BC  19 Apr
  ABC 20 Apr
  C1  01 May
  C2  17 May
  C3  18 May
  Smt 19 May  at 7 am Nepali time by Lathi, Black, Jit Bahadur and Nima Gombu.

  Summit team, Kershner and Richard left C3 at 9:30 pm on 18 May. Weather was clear and calm. Kershner reached 8500m, but was then turned around by Nima Gombu as Nima Gombu thought he was too late and too slow. He has also lost his mental strength as he had to pass the dead body of Namgyal Sherpa who died of heart attack on 16 May.

  Richard reached 8800m at about 6 am, but felt tired and was was worried that she would not have enough strength to go down. She descended to C3 where she arrived at noon.

  The rest of the team carried on. Straightforward climb. They spent about one hour on the summit and descended to C3, where they arrived at 4 pm. Richard had waited there and Kershner had already gone down to C2, where he spent the night. On 20 May everyone was down at ABC.

  PS [from Richard]: Everyone on the expedition got a summit certificate from the CTMA. Nima Gombu said that everyone summited. Apparently this is what has been happening in China for a while. Trekking agents are wanting to have a better track record and are pretending that all their members summited.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C2 to summit or high point to C2 by members and Sherpas

  Sherpas:
    Nima Gombu, Beding, Rolwaling, 2/1/69
    Jit Bahadur (Thile), Khare-5, Dolakha, 30/7/78


expid: EVER13141
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Henry Todd
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Everest 2013
countries: Germany, USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2013-04-14
smtdate: 2013-05-13
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2013-05-15
campsites: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(24/04,6050m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(10/05,7300m),C4(11/05,7900m),Smt(13/05)
accidents: Proudlock slight frostbite
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  14 Apr  5350m
  C1  24 Apr  6050m
  C2  25 Apr  6400m
  C3  10 May  7300m
  C4  11 May  7900m
  Smt 13 May  by Petzel, Padawa at 6 am; Proudlock, Lhakpa Wangchu at 8:30 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 10 pm on 12 May. They had spent an extra night at the South Col as the previous day was too windy. However, the winds were still very high that night (about 40km/h) and visibility of about 50m. They had some snowfall around midnight but it cleared around 3 am. Straightforward climb, but very windy. Petzel [and Pa Dawa] summited shortly after Tim Mosedale and Adam Booth at 6 am. They hardly spent any time on the summit as the visibility was poor and it was very cold and windy. [Proudlock and Lhakpa Wangchu summited at 8:30 am.]

  They descended to C4, where Petzel and Pa Dawa arrived at 10 am and Proudlock and Lhakpa Wangchu arrived at 1 pm. On 14 May they descended to C2. 15 May to BC.

  On 15 May they took a helicopter back to Kathmandu. Proudlock had slight frostbite on the left side of his face. 

  Rosette reached about 5700m about two thirds up the icefall on 24 April. He was struggling with the altitude and returned to BC. He left BC on 26 April.

  Todd was leading the expedition, but never intended to climb. He stayed at BC.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to summit to C3 by members
    Taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 by Sherpas

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Dawa (Pa Dawa, Pando), Pangboche, 18/1/77
    Lhakpa Wangchu, Pangboche, 23/10/86


expid: EVER13142
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Scott Woolums
sponsor: Mountain Trip Everest 2013
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2013-04-13
smtdate: 2013-05-22
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2013-05-25
campsites: BC(13/04,5350m),C1(22/04,6000m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(05/05,7300m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(22/05)
accidents: Vora had frostbite
agency: Expedition Himalaya
routememo:
  BC  13 Apr  5350m
  C1  22 Apr  6000m
  C2  24 Apr  6400m
  C3  05 May  7300m
  C4  20 May  7900m
  Smt 22 May  by Pasang Gomba, Da Onchu, Da Nuru, Phurba Sarki and Vora at 7:30 am.

  Summit team arrived at South Col on 20 May at about 2 pm. They had planned to summit on 21 May, but due to some problems with the oxygen masks as well as bad weather, they decided to go for 22 May.

  On 21 May they left C4 at 9:30 pm after the wind had died. Straightforward climb.  They summited at 7:30 am and spent about 45 minutes on the summit. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 12:30 pm. On 23 May they descended to C2 and on 23 April to BC. Vora noticed that he had frostbite on his left foot at C4, but did not say anything to Woolums. Woolums only found out when Vora was at C2.

  Osoro, Reiter and Seiwald reached 5600m on 19 April to about the football field. Reiter was not feeling well and the other two felt scared, so they turned back. They flew back to Kathmandu by helicopter from Lobuche on 21 May.

  Seiwald came back to BC on 28 April and reached C2 on 1 May. She was still scared of the climb and when a Seven Summit Treks Sherpa fell down the Lhotse Face, she abandoned the expedition. She spent 6 days at C2 and then went down to BC and left expedition.

  Woolums reached the base of the bergschrund at 6600m on 24 April and on 1 May. Once it was clear that only Vora was going to the summit, he made a personal decision not to accompany him as Vora was just too slow and Woolums did not deem it safe for him to climb. However as he wanted to give him a chance, he sent him up with the Sherpas and coordinated from BC.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to summit to C3 by members and Sherpas

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Gombu, Kurima, Lokhim, 25/11/69
    Da Nuru, Kurima, Lokhim, 7/12/83
    Phurba Sarki, Sotang-6, Khumbu, 10/2/76 (1st time summiter)
    Da Ongchu, Kurima, Lokhim, 16/4/79


expid: EVER13144
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Rory Stark
sponsor: USA Everest 2013
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2013-04-15
smtdate: 2013-05-23
smttime: 0515
termdate: 2013-05-26
campsites: BC(15/04,5350m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(04/05,7300m),C4(22/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  BC  15 Apr  5350m
  C1  ---	
  C2  24 Apr  6400m
  C3  04 May  7300m
  C4  22 May  7900m
  Smt 23 May  by Stark at 5:15 am.

  Stark left C4 at 9 pm on 22 May. It was calm. Not many people on the route. He was climbing with the Damian Benegas group. He had to slow down on the way up as he would have reached the summit in the dark otherwise.

  He summited at 5:15 am and spent about 30 minutes on the summit. It was cold and windy. He descended to C4, where he arrived at 10:30 am. He rested there until 12 noon and descended to C2, where he arrived at 5:30 pm. He met up with Chad Kellog whom had been acclimatizing with and both descended to BC on 24 May.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C4 to summit to C2 by Stark


expid: EVER13146
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Turkey
leaders: Aydin Irmak
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Everest Expedition 2013
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2013-04-10
smtdate: 2013-05-10
termdate: 2013-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 8400m due to exhaustion
campsites: BC(10/04,5350m),C1(27/04,6000m),C2(28/04,6400m),C4(09/05,7900m),xxx(10/05,8400m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  10 Apr  5350m
  C1  27 Apr  6000m
  C2  28 Apr  6400m
  C3  --      7300m
  C4  09 May  7900m
  Smt 10 May  by Irmak, Mingma Dorchi, Lhakpa Tindu at 12:35 pm [disputed].

  According to Irmak (information that is disputed) they never slept at C3 but climbed directly from C2 to C4 on 9 May. They left C2 at 3 am and reached C3 at 6 am from where Irmak took oxygen. They arrived at C4 at 6 pm.

  Summit team left C4 with the rope-fixing team at 6:30 am on 9 May. They were a lot slower than the other rope fixers and reached the summit at 12:30 pm. They spent 5 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at 7:30 pm.

  Irmak claims that he reached the summit; however, none of the rope-fixing Sherpas nor David Tait, who summited with Himex on 10 May saw Irmak. According to Russell Brice, two Seven Summit Treks Sherpas (Mingma Dorje and Lhakpa Tendu), who were also part of the rope-fixing team, only reached the Balcony and left the rope there.

  Colonel Neeraj Rana who was also climbing with Seven Summit Treks, said that he spoke to Irmak via radio when he was at the South Col. He told him to come down as he was exhausted and the weather was not so good. Nobody Billi Bierling spoke to at the Seven Summit Treks camp believes that Irmak reached the summit, but only reached the South Col on 9 May.

  Billi emailed Irmak several times for a summit picture, but never received one.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to high point to C4 by Irmak
    Taken and used from C4 to high point to C4 by Sherpas

  Sherpas:
    Mingma Dorje, Tashigaon, Makalu-Barun, 30/8/1980 [biodata in error?]
    Lhakpa Tendu, Makalu-9, Makalu-Barun, 18/4/87 [biodata in error?]


expid: EVER13147
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Natalie Lamoureux
sponsor: Thamserku Everest 2013
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2013-05-07
smtdate: 2013-05-22
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2013-05-26
campsites: BC(07/05,5350m),C2(16/05,6400m),C3(20/05,7300m),C4(21/05,7900m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Summit team started at 9 pm. It was windy. From the South Summit the wind picked up and it took them 4 hours from there to summit. They stayed 45 minutes on summit. On descent they had a lot of snowdrift and moving was difficult. They reached C4 at 9 am. Pasang Nuru broke down all camps and they arrived at C2 at 4 am. On 24 May to BC.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Nuru, Bupsa, Jubing 17/5/74


expid: EVER13149
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Chad Kellogg
sponsor: Kellogg Everest 2013
approach: Jiri
bcdate: 2013-04-15
smtdate: 2013-05-23
termdate: 2013-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to high wind, too cold
campsites: BC(15/04,5350m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(04/05,7300m),xxx(23/05,8300m)
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  Kellogg was trying to a speed ascent. He left BC at 3 pm on 22 May.

  * He arrived at C1 (6000m) at 5:15 pm.
  * Arrived at C2 at 6:30 pm.
  * He put on his downsuit and picked up 2 bottles of water.
  * Left C2 at 6:45 pm.
  * Arrived at base of Lhotse Face at 7:45 pm.
  * He changed into his 8000m boots.
  * Arrived at C3 at 9 pm.
  * Left C3 at 9:15 pm after he had picked up water and chocolate bars.
  * Arrived at C4 (7900m) at 3 am (2 hours faster than in 2012).
  * He took a 37-minute rest to wait for Fuchettar Sherpa to get ready, 
    who had been at C4 since the afternoon.
  * He left C4 at 3:37 am and when he got to 8300m the sun came up and it got very
    windy from about 15 knots to 25 knots. Snow plume was coming off the summit.
  * He knew that it would take him another six hours to reach the summit and when 
    his Sirdar told him over the radio that the weather was getting worse, he 
    decided to abandon his ascent. He was still feeling well, but he was worred 
    about his fingers and toes, so he turned back.
  * At 5:15 am they turned back to C4, had a quick rest and descended to C2, 
    where they arrived at 2 pm.
  * On 24 May he descended to BC with Rory Stark.

  He took 13 hours from BC to 8300m.
  It is the best he felt so far. He took 3 days between rotations to rest.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to high point to 6800m by Fuchettar Sherpa

  Sherpa:
    Fuchettar Sherpa, Jubing-7, Solukhumbu, (2041/6/14) 30/9/84


  Chad Kellog's account at www.outdoorresearch.com:

  This certainly was an interesting expedition. I trained very hard and painstakingly prepared every detail down to the individual scoop of electrolyte powder. I'll take you through the days of my summit attempt.

  The waiting game before a big event is always mentally trying. With over three rest days on my hands, I did my best to rest and recuperate. There is always a nagging physical issue when you have been training hard. This time, my left calf was a bit strained from the sloping ice steps on the Lhotse Face. I finally got the calf to repair enough with a combination of rolling out my calf with a water bottle, Traumeel ointment, compression sleeves and diligent hydration.

  Finally Wednesday May 22 arrived. To validate a record, I had a liaison officer and the head of the SPCC on hand. I wrote up a document of intent and both the liaison officer and I signed the letter. When I do set the record, the letter will go to the Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation.

  At 2:45 pm, with all hands ready to see me off, I paid my traditional respects for safe travel. Offering incense, water, rice I made three circumnavigations of the team stupa. When all was in order, I posed with my friends for some photos and reminded myself that this was going to be fun and to enjoy every step.

  At 3 pm Nepal time I set out into the Khumbu Icefall. People were urging me to go faster and run, but I was running my own race and knew that the first 30 minutes are crucial to warm up. The rolling terrain leading into the Icefall is perfect for warming up. Leaving in the middle of the day and going into the Icefall is never advisable. However, I wanted to arrive at the summit around noon, before the afternoon weather becomes unstable.

  The hot afternoon temperatures necessitated that I use the Black Diamond aluminum Neve crampons to find purchase in the two inches of slush. (I had learned this from my 2010 attempt, when my Javelin shoes did not find traction and I expended a ton of extra energy hauling myself up by hand.) Despite the warm temperatures, I navigated the serac debris, ladders and otherwise unfavorable terrain in decent time. I arrived to Camp 1 in 2 hours and 15 minutes. A bit off my desired pace, I knew I had paced myself well for the long haul.

  Continuing without pause, I headed for Camp 2 and slipped the crampons off of my running shoes after the steeper rolling terrain above Camp 1. Lighter feet translates to less fatigue and faster foot turnover and speed. I kept glancing at my watch to check my progress. I knew I was close to 30 minutes off my intended pace, but I surmised that progress would be gained at other points along the path.

  I arrived at Camp 2 at 6:26 pm. I dropped my lightweight set of Storm Tracker gloves and exchanged them for a warmer pair. I slipped into my down suit, installed eight AA batteries into my electronic foot warmers, poured my powder into my hydration bladder and filled up with water. Within 15 minutes I set out again.

  In an hour I had navigated the glacier below the Lhotse Face and gained another 1000 feet. I reached my cache at the base of the Lhotse Face and put on my Olympus Mons and clipped on my jumar and Alti mitts. I connected my boot warmers and turned them on. My toes were a bit cold from almost five hours in running shoes up to 22,000 feet.

  The almost-full moon began to shed some light on the face. I switched from a walking rhythm into an ascending rhythm on the fixed lines. I was trying to keep from sweating, but the nighttime temperatures had not dropped enough compared with my down suit. I picked the right-hand set of ropes to evade potential rockfall, but the cover of nightfall would minimize most hazards and traffic.

  By 9 pm, I had located the black duffel bag that contained the thermos and calories for the next section of the climb. Hitting my splits between Camps 3 and 4 has always been a crux for me. (Last year I vomited all of my food and water and had nothing to eat or drink for 5 hours.) I needed to arrive at Camp 4 at 12 hours elapsed time to be on record-setting pace. Quickly, I unwrapped the insulation off of the thermos and poured 2 liters into the bladder. I found the labeled ziplock bag and dumped in the Carbo Pro. I picked up some extra bars and headed up again. I knew that I was beginning to make up some of the time I'd lost below Camp 2. I was feeling good at the halfway point of the total vertical gain. A team of Sherpas passed me, lowering the body of the dead Korean climber who had attempted to climb to the summit of Everest without oxygen. The team passed by silently and I continued to climb.

  Checking my elapsed time with my vertical gain, I knew things were going well. I was having an issue with phlegm every time I would drink the electrolyte mix. I found a system of drinking 10-15 "pulls" of water and then spitting out the lining of mucus. I know it's gross to read, but I was desperately trying not to vomit. After what seemed like an eternity, I turned the corner toward the Yellow Band. I have to mention that the light of the moon over the Himalayas at night was a wonderful sight. The light reflecting off the the serac ice and the wind-scoured sections of the face was a nice distraction after 7000 vertical feet.

  As I turned the corner around midnight, I could begin to see the train of lights on the Triangle Face above Camp 4. I would shine my headlamp towards the lights and I imagined Rory, Damian, Phurba and the rest of the crew were looking back at me. Encouraged, I decided to forgo a rest break and continued at my pace of 25-40 steps. I picked my way through the sloping, crampon-scratched rock of the Yellow Band and arrived to the second section of the traverse toward the Geneva Spur.

  The snake of lights had moved above me beyond the Balcony toward the summit. I had a burning sensation in my stomach and knew I'd have to stop for a bathroom break before too long. Keep going, keep breathing and keep drinking. The temperatures had now dipped close to zero. As long as I kept moving, I knew I would stay warm enough to keep using my gloves and keep the dexterity I needed on the fixed lines. I stared up the Lhotse couloir at the pair of headlamps climbing toward the summit of another majestic summit. Two beams of light winked down at me, acknowledging that we all had our sights set on something significant.

  I picked my way between the rock and snow, beginning the climb up the Geneva Spur. A couple of steeper sections and I was on top. The flat sections of rock presented the best place to stop and expel the contents of my stomach. Quickly, I made the necessary stop, careful of my harness and down suit. I have known people who have accidentally filled the hood of their suit on a bathroom break, and I was dead set not to make that gross error.

  I suited back up and began the third traverse on rock toward the South Col. I had fifteen minutes to make Camp 4 before my magic split of 12 hours. Wearing my fixed crampons, I took out my Whippet pole to stabilize myself as my feet sometimes caught at odd angles on the rocks. Soon, however, I could pick out my MSR tent amongst the small town of tents that had sprung up like mushrooms in the night.

  I called out to Fuchettar that it was time to go. A headlamp sprung to life inside the golden tent. It took awhile for him to get ready with oxygen bottle, down suit and summit equipment. Meanwhile, I set to work refilling my hydration bladder and getting my hydration pack back on underneath my down suit. This was the first time I had a few minutes to sit down in over 12 hours.

  By now the snake of lights had reached beyond the South Summit. Dawn would be coming soon and I wanted to make some progress. Fuchettar and I headed across the wind-scoured rocky gap that is the South Col. I reached the fixed lines that stretched up the blue, rock-hard glacial ice and began to ascend again. By 5 am, we had climbed into the Triangle Face. The first sign of people descending arrived to us in the form of rockfall. Fuchettar screamed as the rocks whizzed past. He was afraid with good reason. On the steep face the speed of the rocks would spell certain injury.

  The group went by and the sun began to creep into the sky. However, the sun offered no warmth this high in the atmosphere. At this time, the real opposition began to show itself. Higher on the South Summit the wind began to increase in velocity. I know that the wind typically picks up at sunrise and sunset.

  In Base Camp, we had chosen May 23 because the winds were forecast to be the lowest. On the 21st, Pablo had shown me the latest forecast, the NOAA forecast predicted 15-20 mph winds on the 23rd and the Swiss forecast had predicted 35-45 mph winds. I had prayed that the NOAA forecast was the more accurate of the two.

  A bit past 5 am, I realized that the winds on the summit ridge were well into the 40 mph range with spindrift blowing across the Balcony and high into the air off the summit ridge. I knew that, without oxygen, my appendages would not withstand the windchill. Seemingly in unison with my growing apprehension, a radio call came in from our head Sirdar Phurba. He said that the summit weather was too dangerous for me and urged us to return to Camp 4. This was the dilemma I had feared most. I was on pace! Pushing myself for over 14 hours, I was in position to set the speed record on Everest without oxygen. I had seven hours with which to climb the final 1800 ft. to the summit. I had climbed nearly 10,000 vertical feet above Base Camp to reach an elevation of 27,225 feet.

  This was my third attempt at the summit, and I would not get the window. Why was this happening? Everything was going so well up to this point. Deep inside, I knew that the only decision to make was to go back down, but I still wanted to go up. I began to climb again and Fuchettar began to voice his doubts. Another set of climbers began to descend on us, knocking more rocks down on us. It was clear that I could not ignore the signs any longer. With a heavy heart, I made my way slowly back to the South Col. I joined Felipe inside a tent and learned that he had turned back at the same point as us on his attempt with oxygen.

  Soon, the radio squawked that Damian, Jefferson, Lhakpa, Rinji and Rory were on the summit. There were about 50 folks who had reached the summit with oxygen that morning, but they were over six hours ahead of me and had started at 9 pm on the 22nd from the South Col. I rested for an hour while Fuchettar collected a load of equipment to take back down to Camp 2. In less than an hour we began the long descent from Camp 4.

  We rappelled the Geneva Spur and joined the line of Sherpas ferrying loads down the mountain. We crossed the Yellow Band and the heat of the day began to build. I began to swelter inside my down suit. Fuchettar and I took a break amongst the garbage left on the tent platforms at Camp 3. Loads of people began to pass us as we took a break. I was the lone person without an oxygen mask.

  I've had a lot of time to reflect on this year's experience. There are many lessons to take away from the mountain this year. The fixed lines, assaults, crowds and commercialism of the mountain were the low points. The personal growth, progress and new friendships were the highs. I hoped to rest at Camp 2 for the night. Without the motivation of a successful speed ascent without oxygen, there was no longer a reason to push on toward Base Camp.

  Fuchettar and I made it to the base of the Lhotse Face and I removed my down suit and stowed it inside my Seal Line dry bag. The bag had backpack straps so I could wear my extra gear comfortably back to Camp 2. On the way down, we were greeted by our cook, Gopal, offering us cups of cold orange Tang. We thanked him gratefully and put away a couple of cups of the refreshing liquid. Despite drinking eight liters of water and powder mix I was still dehydrated.

  At just before 2 pm, we made it back into Camp 2. With the exception of a break at Camp 4, I had been on the go for 23 hours and awake for more than 30 hours. I laid down on the rock bench in the kitchen tent and fell fast asleep. The rest of the summit team trickled in over the next six hours. Soon the summit team, Felipe and Phurba were all safe in Camp 2.

  Rory had acquired a serious lung infection and had to remain on oxygen overnight. Rory and I shared a tent so I could monitor him in case he encountered further complications. Thankfully, he woke up a bit more rested the following morning. His oxygen saturation levels were above 77 percent and he decided that he could descend to Base Camp without oxygen. There were numerous items that I needed to take back down through the Icefall. I took the duffel bag used at Camp 3 and filled it with thermos bottles, Olympus Mons boots, two sets of crampons, a tent, hydration pack, multiple cameras, down suit, sleeping pad, full hydration pack, goggles and extra climbing equipment. All told, the duffel was about 45 pounds. Rory and I ate two eggs and a bowl of rice porridge and left Camp 2 at 7:15 am. By 11 am, we had made it through the Icefall and back to Base Camp. I have completed 70 trips through the Icefall in my three expeditions, and am grateful to have run the gauntlet without incident.

  I have to admit that I'm a bit disappointed that I did not reach the summit on this expedition. The take-away point from this trip is that the only thing you can hope to control in this life is your mind. I am proud of my effort and the ability to return from this expedition healthy and happy. There will be other climbs and trips to be made because I made the right decisions. I have all my fingers, toes and appendages. I learned and progressed as an athlete and as a human being. After all, life is about living for each moment. I do not have any regrets, as each moment is a gift. Thank you for your support! I look forward to training for the next challenge and sharing the continuing adventures with you all.


expid: EVER13151
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Adrian Ballinger
sponsor: Alpenglow Everest Expedition 2013
countries: Russia
approach: Island Peak
bcdate: 2013-04-25
smtdate: 2013-05-18
smttime: 0745
termdate: 2013-05-21
othersmts: Summited Island Peak
campsites: BC(25/04,5350m),C2(30/04,6400m),C3(04/05,7350m),C4(16/05,7900m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  Team left C4 at 2:10 am on 17 May. Windy at col, but no wind during climb. Climb was straightforward. Spent 10 minutes on summit. Descended to C4 at 9:55 am. Carried on at noon down to C2, arrived at 3 pm. On 19 May packed up C2 and skied down to C1 in 20 minutes.

  Team had planned to climb Lhotse after Everest. However, as they wanted to ski and there was not enough snow in the couloirs, so they abandoned the climb.

  Sherpas:
    Dorje Sonam, Phortse, Khumbu, 24/5/81
    Pasang Rinji, Phortse, Khumbu, 18/1/77
    Karma Gyalzen, Phortse, Khumbu, 23/4/87
    Tenjing Gyalzen, Phortse, Khumbu 2/7/91


expid: EVER13154
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kenji Kondo
sponsor: Adventure Guides Sagarmatha Expedition 2013
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche East->Everest BC
bcdate: 2013-04-28
smtdate: 2013-05-20
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2013-05-25
othersmts: Summited Lobuche East for acclimatization and Lhotse (LHOT-131-04)
campsites: BC(28/04,5300m),C1(02/05,6000m),C2(08/05,6300m),C3(18/05,7005m),C4(19/05,7900m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  3 members did not make it to the summit:

    Hamatsu Tomoaki (made it to 8750m on May 20th)
      Did not reach summit due to exhaustion and bad weather.
    Yachiyo Suzuki (made it to 8600m on May 20th)
      Did not reach summit due to exhaustion and bad weather.
    Yachiyo Shinozaki (rescued from BC due to altitude sickness)

  Sherpas that made it to summit:
    Da Dendi Sherpa, Lokhim-9, Solu, 28/5/81, on 20th at 2 pm
    Kitab Singh Tamang, Deusa-6, Solu,  Jan 20, 1986, on 20th at 2 pm
    Chepa Shepra, Sotang-6, Solu, Oct 29,1983, on 20th at 2:15 pm
    Da Kaljung Sherpa, Lokhim-9, Solu, Jan 20,1996, on 20th at 2:45 pm
    Lakpa Chhiri Sherpa, Lokhim-9, Solu, 17/4/64

  After reaching the summit, the team returned to C4. On 21 May half the team descended to BC while the others moved to Lhotse C4.


expid: KCHN13101
peakid: KCHN
year: 2013
route1: Kangchung La from S
nation: USA
leaders: Matt Fioretti
sponsor: Four Winds Kangchung 2013
approach: Lukla->Gokyo->Dragnag north on Nyinagana plateau
bcdate: 2013-04-30
smtdate: 2013-05-02
termdate: 2013-05-02
termnote: Abandoned at 5550m due to unstable rock conditions
campsites: BC(30/04,5425m),ABC(01/05,5380m),xxx(02/05,5550m)
agency: Karnali Excursions
routememo:
  BC  south of col between two peaks
  ABC 100m south of bottom of icefall south of col.

  Tried 2 May to go from BC to west summit that day. Cho and Fioretti left BC at 3:00 am, reached ABC at 3:45 am. Then up between rock buttress on west and icefall on east; rock on buttress was very unstable and broke off in Cho's hand. They went up to 18,200 ft (5550m), but no good place for anchors for safe ascent and turned back and abandoned climb. Both want to return to mountains and climb icefall which not moving at all, no debris, no big crevasse, but should fix ropes on 600-800 ft. Back to BC at 8:30 am.

  Harris never reached BC; he was sick.

  Note: Kangcho directly south of Gyachung Kang and Nup La and has 2 summits: west summit is 6043m high and east summit is 6063m high.


expid: LHOT13102
peakid: LHOT
year: 2013
route1: W Face
nation: India
leaders: Umesh Zirpe
sponsor: Giripremi Lhotse Everest 2013
bcdate: 2013-03-12
smtdate: 2013-05-16
smttime: 0724
termdate: 2013-05-21
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-131-06)
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),C1(23/04,6100m),C2(28/04,6500m),C3(14/05,7000m),C4(15/05,7800m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Peak Promotion
primid: EVER13106
routememo:
  The five-member team reached C3 on the West Face of Lhotse on 14 May. From there, Mane with two Sherpas, Lhakpa Dorje and Pasang, went for the summit of Lhotse while the other four members went to the South Col and to their C4 there for Everest.

  Mane and his Sherpas made the final camp for Lhotse at 7800m on 15 May, left the camp at 2:00 am the next day (the 16th) and summited at 7:24 am. They descended to C2 in the Western Cwm (6500m) at 3:00 pm.

  Everyone was back in BC on the 18th.

  Oxygen:
    Used by members climbing above C3 to their summits (but not in) C4
    The Sherpas were on oxygen from C4 to their summits to and in C4

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa, 1/10/65, Chitre, Sotang, Solu, Everest X7, Lhotse X1
    Pasang Sherpa, 20/12/83, Tapting-1, Solu, Lhotse X1


expid: LHOT13103
peakid: LHOT
year: 2013
route1: W Face
nation: UK
leaders: Dan Martin
sponsor: Extreme Everest Lhotse
countries: S Africa
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2013-03-16
smtdate: 2013-05-07
termdate: 2013-05-10
termnote: Abandoned at 5100m due to lack of time
campsites: BC(16/03,5300m),xxx(07/05,5100m)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  Martin and Vercheil were part of the Extreme Everest Research team. They had bought a Lhotse permit just in case they would have time to do it. However, their research took too much time and when Vercheil found out that his stepfather was unwell in South Africa, he had to leave early. Martin also decided to abandon expedition. So they only went to C1 for fun on 7 May.


expid: LHOT13104
peakid: LHOT
year: 2013
route1: S Col-W Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Kenji Kondo
sponsor: Adventure Guides Sagarmatha Expedition 2013
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche East->Everest BC
bcdate: 2013-04-28
smtdate: 2013-05-22
smttime: 0852
termdate: 2013-05-25
othersmts: Summited Lobuche East for acclimatization and Everest (EVER-131-54)
agency: Cosmo Treks
primid: EVER13154
campsites:
  BC(28/04,5300m),C1(02/05,6000m),C2(08/05,6300m),C3(18/05,7005m),C4(19/05,7900m),EVER.Smt(20/05),LHOT.C4(21/05,7800m),Smt(22/05)

routememo:
  Arrived at Lhotse C4 directly from South Col (Everest C4) on 21 May.

  Sherpas that made it to the summit;
    Da Dendi Sherpa, Lokhim-9, Solu, 28/5/81, summit at 8:52 am on 22 May
    Lakpa Chhiring Sherpa, Lokhim-9, Solu, 17/4/64, summit at 8:52 am on 22 May

  The team of 2 Japanese and 2 Sherpas left Lhotse C4 at 1:30 am and reached the summit at 8:52 am.

  After reaching the summit, the team descended to Everest C2. Next day they reached BC. Strong wind during summit push.


expid: MAKA13101
peakid: MAKA
year: 2013
route1: W Pillar (to 6300m)
route2: W Face-Makalu La (to 7400m)
route3: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: David Goettler
sponsor: Makalu West Pillar Expedition 2013
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 2013-04-21
smtdate: 2013-05-22
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2013-05-25
campsites: BC(21/04,5440m),C1(25/04,6000m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  The team's original ambition was to climb the formidable West Pillar without Sherpa helpers, fixed camps or bottled oxygen.

  They established their BC on 21 April at 5400m on the moraine below the south end of the the pillar. They bivouacked from the 25th to 27th at 6000m, the normal site of C1 for the pillar; on the 26th they climbed to 6300m for acclimatization and to observe conditions on their route. On the 27th, they descended to BC and took the decision that the route was too difficult.

  From 29 April to 2 May, they made an acclimatization climb on the normal route's West Face, as they had originally planned to do, to 6800m. They moved up and down the face for a few days. On 8th May they bivouacked at the site for C2 (6600m) and the following day climbed up to the Makalu La (7400m), where they slept that night.

  On the 10th they were down in BC and now decided to go for the summit by this normal route up the face and along the NW Ridge to the top. They now had to move their stored equipment to the new route, so on the 16th they returned to their pillar cache.

  Siegrist had left the team on the 12th. He had high altitude problems because of a climbing accident two years ago.

  Finally the four remaining members began a bid for the summit. In a series of bivouacs, they moved up to 6600m on the 19th, to the Makalu La's 7400m on the 20th, and and to 7700m on the north side of the NW Ridge on the 21st. At 1:00 am they set out for the top, and reached 8200m at 4:30 am. Here they found other team members and Sherpas had stopped at this point because they were no fixed ropes above in the French couloir (8200-8400m), and no one had any rope with them to fix.

  At his point, Waerthl's fingers had gotten very cold, and he turned back to BC. But the other three, Bartsch, Goettler and Mitterer, still went to on up and arrived at the summit at 9:00 am that day, 22 May.

  A Finn climbing alone, Samuli Mansikka, was about half an hour behind them from 8200m. When they reached the top, they waited for him and took pictures of him together with them.

  They descended to their 7700m bivy at 12 noon, had two hours rest, packed up their gear and moved down to their bivouac at 6600m at 5:30 pm. They were in BC on the 23rd.


expid: MAKA13102
peakid: MAKA
year: 2013
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Christof Aschwanden
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Makalu Expedition 2013
approach: Barun Valley via helicopter (too much snow on the pass)
bcdate: 2013-04-04
smtdate: 2013-04-23
termdate: 2013-04-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to difficult ice conditions for a summit push
campsites: BC(04/04,4700m),ABC(17/04,5900m),C1(14/04,6600m),C2(22/04,7400m),xxx(23/04,7800m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  On the 23rd of April, Aschwanden started at 10 pm from C2 up to 7700m and decided to turn back, as the blue ice conditions from 7700m were too delicate to handle with. On his way down, finding no available space in C2 and knowing no fixed ropes would be put above to cross the blue ice section, he knew he could only go down. Slept that day at C1, then back to the ABC the 24th, then to Hillary BC on the 27th where he stayed 2 days waiting for the helicopter (because of bad weather conditions).

  On the 30th April, he with Vickers, Celikovic, Gheichisaz and Yang flew back from BC to Kathmandu by helicopter.

  Ashwanden couldn't watch the accident of Liu Xiang-Yang as he was not anymore above Makalu La on the 24th of April.


expid: MAKA13103
peakid: MAKA
year: 2013
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: David Abramczyk (Abramski)
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Makalu Expedition 2013
approach: Tumlingtar
bcdate: 2013-04-05
smtdate: 2013-05-24
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2013-05-26
campsites: BC(05/04,5000m),ABC(07/04,5650m),C1(11/04,6600m),C2(15/04,7400m),C3(23/05,7900m),Smt(24/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  05 Apr  5000m
  ABC 07 Apr  5650m
  C1  11 Apr  6600m
  C2  15 Apr  7400m
  C4  23 Apr  7900m
  Smt 24 Apr  by Abramcyzk, Ang Dawa at 11 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 1:30 am on 24 May. It was windy and clear. They carried on even though the fixed ropes ended just below the couloirs (a point where many people from Asian Trekking had stopped). There was some old fixed ropes in the couloirs, which they used but were not great. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 4:30 pm. On 25 May descended to BC.

  Abramczyk had also joined the first summit push during which Azim Gheichisaz, Yang Chun-Feng and Lhakpa Dendi summited on 23 April. They were attempting to summit from the Makalu La and the team, including Liu Xiang-Yang, left on 22 April at 3:30 pm. They reached C4 (7900m) at 7 pm. They saw that there were no fixed ropes and Abramczyk, Liu and Yang waited for about 3 hours for two Sherpas and Gheichisaz to fix some rope. The Sherpas were not very good at it, so Gheichisaz helped them. At about 10 pm, Abramczyk decided to leave and went back to the Makalu La, where he arrived at 11:30 pm.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 by Ang Dawa and Abramczyk

  Sherpa:
    Dawa (Ang Dawa), Walung, Makalu, 7/12/1959


expid: MAKA13104
peakid: MAKA
year: 2013
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Gavin Vickers
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Makalu Expedition 2013
approach: Barun Valley via helicopter (too much snow on the pass)
bcdate: 2013-04-04
smtdate: 2013-04-21
termdate: 2013-04-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to respiratory problems
campsites: BC(04/04,6700m),ABC(07/04,5900m),C1(20/04,6600m),xxx(21/04,7200m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  On 21st April, Gavin Vickers left after a freezing cold night at C1, then reached almost to the Makalu La, around 7200m. Then he had some respiratory problems and begun to get frozen fingers, so descended back to C1 that day.

  The day after, he was  back to the ABC and reached Hillary BC on the 27th where he waited 2 days for the helicopter (bad weather conditions). On the 30th April he with Aschwanden, Celikovic, Gheichisaz and Yang flew back from BC to Kathmandu by helicopter.

  Vickers had [Lhakpa] Dendi Sherpa assigned to him as a part of the cost of the expedition, but did not use him. Dendi later summited with the Azim Gheichisaz group on 23 April.


expid: MAKA13106
peakid: MAKA
year: 2013
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Serbia
leaders: Dragan Celikovic
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Makalu Expedition 2013
approach: Tumlingtar by air, Num by jeep, Yangla Kharka by heli, trek to BC
bcdate: 2013-04-05
smtdate: 2013-04-23
termdate: 2013-04-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(05/04,5000m),ABC(08/04,5650m),C1(15/04,6600m),xxx(23/04,6800m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  On the 23rd of April, between 50 and 75 cms of fresh snow had fallen during the night. Sherpas themselves saying it was too difficult to establish the track, Celikovic decided to go back to the ABC.

  On 27th of April, Celikovic joined Hillary BC with Aschwanden and Vickers, where he waited 2 days for the helicopter (bad weather conditions). On the 30th of April, he with Aschwanden, Vickers, Gheischisaz and Yang flew back from High BC to Kathmandu by helicopter.

  Oxygen: Not used

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa [Ongyal?], Walung, Makalu X2?


expid: MAKA13107
peakid: MAKA
year: 2013
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Iran
leaders: Azim Gheichisaz
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Makalu Expedition 2013
approach: Barun Valley via helicopter
bcdate: 2013-04-04
smtdate: 2013-04-24
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2013-04-30
campsites: BC(04/04,4700m),ABC(07/04,5700m),C1(14/04,6600m),C2(17/04,7400m),Smt(24/04)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  On 23rd of April, Azim with Yang Chun-Feng, Liu Xiang-Yang, David Abramczyk plus 3 Sherpas: Dendi Sherpa, Pechhumbe Sherpa and a third one (Abramczyk's one) started at 2:30 pm from C2 for a summit push.

  On the 24th of April, he with Yang, Liu and Dendi Sherpa after climbing all night summited 9:30 am, then descended back to Makalu La at C2. Azim Gheichisaz preceeding his 3 other teammates on descent, did not see the accident of Liu. He slept that night at C2 where he arrived at 8 pm.

  On the 25th he was back to ABC, then on the 27th to Hillary BC. On the 30th of April, he was helicoptered with other teammates (Yang, Vickers, Aschwanden and Celikovic) back to Kathmandu.

  Azim climbed without oxygen or Sherpa support all the way along, considered as very strong by all other climbers on the mountain.


expid: MAKA13108
peakid: MAKA
year: 2013
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Finland
leaders: Samuli Mansikka
sponsor: Samuli Mansikka Makalu Expedition 2013
approach: See route notes
bcdate: 2013-04-24
smtdate: 2013-05-22
smttime: 0920
termdate: 2013-05-24
campsites: BC(24/04,5700m),C1(28/04,6650m),C2(05/05,7420m),C3(21/05,7420m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  Approach: Biratnagar, Tumlingtar, Num, Seduwa, Tashigaon, Kongma, Yangla Kharka, Makalu lower BC

  Mansikka without supplementary oxygen and Sherpa support started his summit push from C3 at 11:30 pm of 21 May. He got to the summit at 9:20 am on 22 May and stayed on summit for 10 minutes. Ahead of Mansikka there were three Germans (David, Hans and Daniel) on the summit. Mansikka descended C3 at [?] pm and continued to C2 where he reached at 4 pm. Next day 23 May went down to BC. 

  Other climbers returned from 8000m because there were no ropes above 8000m.


expid: MAKA13109
peakid: MAKA
year: 2013
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Tatsuo Matsumoto
sponsor: Matsumoto Madness Expedition Makalu
approach: See route notes
bcdate: 2013-04-26
smtdate: 2013-05-22
termdate: 2013-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 8200m due to no fixed ropes
campsites: BC(26/04,5700m),C1(01/05,6600m),C2(02/05,6700m),C3(20/05,7600m),C4(21/05,7900m),xxx(22/05,8200m)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  Approach: Biratnagar, Tumlingtar, Num, Seduwa, Tashigaon, Kongma, Yangla Kharka, Makalu Lower BC 

  Matsumoto and Pema Sherpa started their summit bid from C4 at 9 pm on 21 May. When they arrived at about 8200m at 4:30 am on 22 May, they found that there were no fixed ropes. Then they descended C2. Next day 23 May they went down to BC. The summit push day weather was reasonably good, but on descending it became very bad. Matsumoto was told that Seven Summit Treks would fix the line on the route, but they did not do it. The team of Asian Trekking started fixing ropes, but they ran out of ropes.

  Sherpa:
    Pema Sherpa, (12/5/30) 28/8/73, Ekuwa, Pathibara-1, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1


expid: MAKA13110
peakid: MAKA
year: 2013
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Dipankar Ghosh
sponsor: West Bengal Makalu Expedition 2013
bcdate: 2013-04-24
smtdate: 2013-05-22
termnote: Abanonded at 8300m due to lack of fixed ropes
agency: Loben Expeditions (Snowy Horizon pmt)
campsites:
  BC(24/04),ABC(26/04),C1(01/05,6300m),C2(02/05,6600m),C3(19/05,7300m),C4(21/05,7900m),xxx(22/05,8300m)


expid: MAKA13111
peakid: MAKA
year: 2013
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Kinga Baranowska
sponsor: Polish-Italian Makalu
countries: Italy
approach: Tumlingtar
bcdate: 2013-04-18
smtdate: 2013-05-24
termdate: 2013-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to sickness and cold fingers of members
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
campsites:
  BC(18/04,5000m),ABC(20/04,5650m),C1(25/04,6300m),C2(26/04,6700m),C3(01/05,7200m),C4(23/05,7500m),xxx(24/05,8100m)

routememo:
  BC  18 Apr  5000m
  ABC 20 Apr  5650m
  C1  25 Apr  6300m
  C2  26 Apr  6700m
  C3  01 May  7200m
  C4  23 May  7500m
  HPt 24 May  8100m by Valentini, Ongchu Sherpa at 4:30 am.

  The entire team arrived at C4 on 23 May at 2 pm. On 24 May Ongchu and Valentini left C4 at 2:15 am. Fronia did not feel well; he had an upset stomach and decided to stay in the tent. Baranowska decided to stay with him. On the climb, there was some fixed rope; however, Ongchu had taken some rope to fix the French couloirs but they did not get that far. When they reached 8100m at 4:30 am, Valentini felt very tired and exhausted and could not carry on. He was shaking and his energy levels very low. He had very cold fingers and toes.

  They descended to C4 where they arrived at 6:30 am. Baranowska and Rafal had stayed the night at C4, but had started descending to BC at 8:30 am. Ongchu and Valentini rested at C4 for two hours and descended to ABC at 9:15 am, where they arrived at 5:30 pm.

  Oxygen:
    Not used by members
    Ongchu used emergency oxygen at C4 as he was worried about his cold fingers
      and toes

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Ongchu Sherpa, Kharikhola, Khumbu, 2/10/83


expid: MANA13101
peakid: MANA
year: 2013
route1: NE Face
nation: Slovakia
leaders: Vlado Haluska
bcdate: 2013-04-02
smtdate: 2013-04-24
termdate: 2013-05-01
termnote: Abandoned at 5700m due to lack of manpower to fix the route
campsites: BC(02/04,4800m),xxx(24/04,5700m)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  Haluska and Nurbu Jangbu climbed up to C1 on 24 April for acclimatization, then went down to BC. Haluska said that there were two Italians and two Singaporeans and their Sherpa. Not enough manpower to open the route and fix rope.

  Sherpa:
    Nurbu Jangbu Sherpa, 1954, Ghat, Khumbu


expid: PUTH13101
peakid: PUTH
year: 2013
route1: NE Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Erwin Jacomet
sponsor: Alpinus Putha Hiunchuli Expedition
ascent1: 52nd
countries: Germany
approach: Nepalgunj
bcdate: 2013-05-07
smtdate: 2013-05-21
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2013-05-23
campsites: BC(07/05,4900m),C1(11/05,5450m),C2(14/05,6200m),C3(20/05,6550m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Team left C3 at 3:15 am. Weather perfect. Jacomet, Oechslin and Ulrich ascended and descended by skis. Some crevasses between 6200m and 6350m, but otherwise good conditions. They stayed about 40 minutes on summit. Ski team descended on skis to 5200m and arrived at noon. Last bit to BC on foot, arrived at 1:30 pm. Dannecker, Tshering and Nima descended by foot and arrived at BC at 5 pm.

  Sherpas:
    Tshering Jangbu, 1/8/77, Rakshi Kharka, Lokhim
    Nima Sange Sherpa, 11/11/89, Sitalpati-7, Sankhuwasabha


expid: EVER13103
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Sherpa Rope-Fixing
sponsor: Sherpa Rope-Fixing Everest South 2013
smtdate: 2013-05-10
smttime: 1140
campsites: Smt(10/05)
routememo:
  Rope-fixing summiters:

  From Adventure Consultants:
    Kami Rita Sherpa
    Dawa Jangbu Sherpa (C3 support)
    Pemba Chhoti Sherpa (C3 support)
    Sange Dorje Sherpa

  From Himex:
    Gyalzen Dorje Sherpa
    Ngawang Tenjing Sherpa
    Ngima Sona Sherpa
    Phurba Tashi Sherpa

  From Alpine Ascents:
    Kami Rita (Topke) Sherpa
    Phura Kanchha Sherpa

  From IMG:
    Pasang Kami Sherpa
    Tsheten Dorje Sherpa

  From Asian Trekking:
    Pemba Tshering Sherpa
    Shera Gyalzen Sherpa

  From IMG web site:

  IMG leaders Greg and Jangbu report that the rope fixing plan has been agreed upon with ten teams (IMG, AAI, Jagged Globe, Global Adventure, Arun, Peak Freaks, Himex, Astrek, Miura, Seven Summits) working together to carry 13 loads to the Col (11 loads of rope with 2200 meters total and two loads of hardware). 

  Then we have 14 Sherpas from 6 teams staying up on the Col to start fixing (IMG: Pasang Kami, Tseten Dorje, Damai Sarki; AAI: Topke, Phura Kancha; Himex: Phurba Tashi, Nima Tenzing, Nawang Tenzing, Gyalzen Dorje; Astrek: Shera Gyalzen, Pemba Tshiri; Seven Summits: Lhakpa Thundu, Mingma Dorji; AC: Kami Rita).


expid: LHOT13118
peakid: LHOT
year: 2013
route1: S Col-W Face
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Mike Roberts
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Lhotse Expedition 2013
approach: Pangboche->Island Peak
bcdate: 2013-04-14
smtdate: 2013-05-20
smttime: 1245
termdate: 2013-05-22
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-131-09)
agency: Himalayan Guides
primid: EVER13109
campsites:
  BC(14/04,5350m),C1(24/04,6000m),C2(25/05,6400m),C3(16/05,7200m),C4(17/05,8000m),EVER.Smt(19/05),Smt(20/05)

routememo:
  Roberts and Davila went to the bergschrund on 1st acclimatization rotation. They wanted to touch C3 on 28 April, but the rope fixing was stopped due to a fight between Ueli Steck and Simone Moro and Sherpas. Once back at BC, Davila had foot pain due to bad boots; in addition he had to go back to Venezuela for political reasons. He never went back up. Roberts decided to stay and climb Everest and Lhotse.

  Roberts and Tendi Sherpa had arrived at the South Cl on 17th May at around 12:30 pm, intending to summit on the 18th May. However, the winds were too high and they decided to wait for another night. On 18 May, they left at 7:30 pm with a lot of other people. They passed about 60 people in the first half hour. It was a calm night and a straightforward climb. The summited at 1:30 am and spent about half an hour on the summit trying to get a flash picture on the summit, but it did not work out. They descended to the South Col, where they arrived at 4:30 am and stayed there until 20th May at 6:30 am. During his time at the South Col, Mike Roberts was trying to help mobilise Sherpas for the rescue of Mr. Lee from Taiwan, who was at C4 on Lhotse.

  Roberts and Tendi left the South Col at 6:30 am on 20 May to get to C4 of Lhotse where they arrived at about 7:45 am. They joined Kenton Cool, who had been trying to save the life of the Taiwanese climber; however, when Tendi and Roberts arrived, he had just died. Roberts went back down to the junction, where he had left a duffle bag and sorted out some gear and left the junction at 8:30 am to go for the summit. He stopped at Cool's camp for a drink and left 5 minutes ahead of Cool.

  Lhotse summit: 20 May at 12:45 pm by Roberts and Tendi Sherpa.

  They spent about 10 minutes on the summit. It was very cloudy and they could not see much. They descended to the junction, where they repacked their duffle bag again and descended to C2, where they arrived at 6 pm. The following day BC.

  Oxygen:
    C3 to Everest summit to South Col to Lhotse Summit to C3 by Roberts and 
      Tendi Sherpa

  Sherpa:
    Tendi Sherpa, 13/10/68, Sanam, Gudel, Solu


expid: AMAD12308
peakid: AMAD
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Stuart Peacock
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Ama Dablam Expedition 2012
countries: Germany, New Zealand, USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Dingboche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2012-10-27
smtdate: 2012-11-01
termdate: 2012-11-09
campsites: BC(27/10,4575m),ABC(29/10,5420m),C1(31/10,5780m),C2(05/11,6080m),Smt(01,05-06/11)
agency: Himalayan Ecstasy Treks
routememo:
  Summit team left C2 at about 6 am. The weather was very cold in the dark hours but sheltered from the wind. Wind picked up when above the Dablam, but pretty calm on the summit. Very clear skies all day and night.  

  They descended to C2 where they arrived at around 5 pm. They were intending to descend further to C1, but the clients were too tired so the Sherpas continued to C1 without them.

  High Points of other members.

  Gibson reached about 30m vertically short of the summit. She was tired and turned back on 18 Nov at about 2:30 pm.

  Abuhaidar to 6100m, turned around 2nd pitch on Grey Tower on 18 Nov.

  Luetke-Brinkhaus to C1 on 30 Oct and 10 Nov. He slept there twice but had a chest infection that would not clear in the time they had.

  Briggs to C1 on 30 Oct; slept there but struggled with altitude (he had previous AMS history).

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Chhiri (Sonam), Pangboche, 17/11/1974 (Ministry states 3/5/90 as DOB)
    Phur Temba, Sibuje, Waku-4, 19/12/68 (Ministry states 24/6/89 as DOB)


  Stu Peacock (email) - 21 Nov 2012

  I've attached the itinerary we used, which shows the dates we arrived at each camp. As you can see our summit bid was from Camp 2.

  Angus Bruce Jones, myself and Sherpas Lhakpa and Phur Temba reached the summit. Carrie Gibson turned around 30m below the summit. Walid Abuhaidar turned around from the second pitch of fixed line on the grey tower. 

  Friedhelm Brinkhaus and John Briggs did not get any further than Camp 1. John was suffering with symptoms of AMS, headaches mainly. Friedhelm had a cold which had got onto his chest. 

  Pasang the other Sherpa we had stayed with those two clients.

  I reached the summit at 12:30 hrs on the 6th Nov. Angus was 13:15 hrs with
  Lhakpa and Phur Temba topped out at 14:15 hrs.


  Jiban (Himalayan Ecstasy) - 13 March 2013

  Three additional members were also on the Himalayan Ecstasy permit, but climbed apart from the Peacock team:

    Peter Worbs - summited on 1 Nov with Tashi Sherpa
    Christopher Wallington - summited on 5 Nov with Ang Kami Sherpa
    Maciej Lengiewicz - summited on 5 Nov with Ang Kami Sherpa

  Zachary Poulton was also on the permit and summited on 1 Nov.


expid: PUTH12307
peakid: PUTH
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: India
leaders: Sonam Tshering Lepcha
ascent1: 47th
countries: Sweden
bcdate: 2012-09-20
smtdate: 2012-09-29
smttime: 1115
termdate: 2012-09-30
campsites: BC(20/09,4900m),C1.ABC(24/09,5400m),C2(27/09,6180m),C3(28/09,6500m),Smt(29/09)
agency: Hi On Life Adventures
routememo:
  See expedition operator's blog at 

     http://www.hionlife.se/aktuellt/ (in Swedish)

  Google translation of last entries:

  Hi On Life put first Swedish flag on Putha Hiunchuli!
  2012-09-29

  This morning, at 11:15 Joakim Anderson, Sonam Lepcha, Lhakpa Sherpa Wangel and Rinjen Sherpa reached the top of Putha Hiunchuli, the entire 7246 meters above sea level. Incredibly strong done! The weather had apparently been good and the climb fine.

  Unfortunately, it was Magnus had to turn down to base camp yesterday when the others went up to Camp 3 due to health. My stomach did not really want to be on the high altitude.

  Putha Hiunchuli Expedition Dispatch #13
  2012-09-26

  Today, we have once again been in contact with the expedition. Since we heard of them last, they have worked to acclimate.

  On September 24, they went up to Camp 1 where they slept overnight. On the 25th , they went on to Camp 2 is located at 6180 meters, just because after a couple of hours there, return to Camp 1 again - which is the best way to acclimate to - "walk high sleep low".

  In normal circumstances, they will use only Camp 1 as an overnight camp during the climb, which means that the climbers have to go down all the way to base camp to rest properly. Then Camp 1 only located at 5400 meters so our team has decided to move up the base camp there. Kitchen tents and cooking equipment has been sustained and we have staffed our new basecamp with our chef Nir and a kitchen helper. Anything to let our athletes must avoid going down all the way to the "real" base camp. This is estimated as clear of both Magnus and Joakim.

  After climbing up to Camp 2 was hit Magnus again from stomach problems and it was a tough day for him. It's a challenging day, even if you were healthy, as during the climb up to camp two have time to harvest next 800 meters of altitude.

  Today, the group has a rest day in Camp 1. They now need to take it easy to gather strength for the coming days and in the meantime they rest and eat and drink all they can so they acclimate themselves best.

  Tomorrow it's off to Camp 2 again! According to the weather reports as the weather looks good for a summit push the next few days, so if they feel good and feel ready so this could possibly be the last tour up! Keep your fingers crossed!

  Putha Hiunchuli Expedition Dispatch #11
  2012-09-22

  The climb has begun!

  Camp 1 at 5400 meters altitude has been established and our group has been on a ride up to the camp to acclimatise and have already returned to base camp. In Camp 1 are now some sleeping tent, a small kitchen tents, food and fuel. They reached the camp shortly before 13:00 and stayed for a while to let your body feel the altitude. 14:30, they were back in base camp.

  Magnus felt sadly not better this morning and continued on its course of antibiotics. Sonam therefore complemented with antibiotics Tinidazole. The weather was glorious and it has kept Magnus in good spirits throughout the day. This evening, Magnus has begun to feel better - it seems that medicine has taken effect!


expid: RAKS12301
peakid: RAKS
year: 2012
route1: S side of E Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Mirjam Limmer
ascent1: 2nd
bcdate: 2012-10-06
smtdate: 2012-10-21
smttime: 1730
termdate: 2012-10-24
campsites: BC(06/10,4100m),C1(5000m),C2(5800m),Smt(21/10)
accidents: Mirjam Limmer with frostbite at toes.
agency: Himalayan Sherpa Adventure
routememo:
  On 21 Oct we started at 3:30 am to our summit attempt. At 4:00 am we boarded the southern face of the Raksha Urai III. After crossing the bergschrund, 16 pitches of 60m each followed in steeper terrain. The flank went from 60-degrees steep firn over 70 degrees steep firn/ice passages and ran below the ridge in 80-degrees steep ice lengths. For the climbing by the flank we needed about 10 hours. We climbed in a combined style of changing guide and climbing on the running rope, whereby we alternated with the lead every 120 meters at a time. Arrived at the eastern ridge of Raksha Urai III we followed the ridge to the point where the East Ridge
  meets the South Ridge, and from there follow the South Ridge to the summit. In particular, the South Ridge was partially rocky, steep and heavily overgrown. A small additional load was sufficient to trigger avalanches. We reached the summit at 5:30 pm and spent 10 minutes on the summit. In 6 hours we accomplished the descent to C1 at 11:30 pm.

  We also attempted Raksha Urai II in a first attempt, but had to return because of heavy avalanche danger in the east face.


expid: MANA12353
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Iran
leaders: Azim Gheichisaz
bcdate: 2012-09-20
smtdate: 2012-09-29
smttime: 1111
termdate: 2012-10-01
campsites: BC(4800m),C1(20/09,5800m),C2(23/09,6400m),C3(28/09,7450m),Smt(29/09)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Notes from Gheichisaz web log (in Persian tranlated by Parvaneh Kazemi):

  They reached to Ktm on 6 Sept, but separately flew to Samagaon, firstly Mehdi flew and reached BC on 20 Sept. Then after 1 week Azim flew and stayed 1 day in Samagaon and next day reached BC on 29 Sept. He noted these dates in his web:

  20 Sept Camp 1 (overnight 3 nights)
  23 Sept Camp 2 (overnight and then came back to BC)
  27 Sept Camp 1
  28 Sept Camp 4
  29 Sept Summit (started 1 am from Camp 4 and reached summit at 11:11 am, 
                  then descended to Camp 2)
  30 Sept BC

  They did not use Sherpas or supplementary oxygen.


expid: ANN112115
peakid: ANN1
year: 2012
route1: N Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Guntis Brands
sponsor: Expedition Cobra
approach: By helicopter to Tatopani, then to BC
bcdate: 2012-03-27
smtdate: 2012-05-06
termdate: 2012-05-09
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to frostbite
accidents: Frostbite in right hand (thumb is bad and three middle fingers will be Ok), all toes
agency: Seven Summit Treks
campsites:
  BC(27/03,4100m),C1(30/03,5020m),C2(01/04,5510m),C2(03/05,6450m),C4A(04/05,6850m),C4B(05/05,7200m),xxx(06/05,8000m)

routememo:
  Brands and his climbing Sherpa Mingma Thenduk started their summit push from upper C4 at 9:30 pm on 5 May. They reached 8000m at 9:30 am of 6 May, then Brands realized he had frostbite and went down to upper C4 where they arrived around 2:30 pm and spent night there. Next day on 7 May they spent night at C2 and the following day 8 May went to BC.

  Sherpa:
    Mingma Thenduk


expid: CHOY09361
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Simone Moro
countries: UK
termnote: Canceled due to closure of Tibet in late September
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Team acclimatized in Khumbu (Island Peak), then cancelled plans after closure of Tibetan border by the Chinese.


expid: AMAD13107
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Christian Schnoell
sponsor: Austrian Ama Dablam Expedition 2013
approach: Lukla->Namche
bcdate: 2013-04-28
smtdate: 2013-05-10
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2013-05-13
campsites: BC(28/04,4600m),C1(03/05,5720m),C2(08/05,6020m),Smt(10/05)
agency: High Valley Treks
routememo:
  All members left final camp at 5:30 am and reached summit at 3:00 pm. After summiting they returned to C2 and stayed there. Returned to BC on 11 May.

  * Fixed rope from C2 to summit.


expid: AMAD13108
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Luca Montanari
sponsor: Trilogy Expedition Part One to Ama Dablam
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2013-05-10
smtdate: 2013-05-15
termdate: 2013-05-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to bad weather conditions and Torre tired
othersmts: Summited Island Peak
campsites: BC(10/05,4800m),C1(14/05,5700m),C2(15/05,6000m),xxx(15-16/05,6000m)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  Luca and Gian Francesco made their attempt with Oriol Ribas (Andorra) and went back to BC all together from C2 on the 16th of May.


expid: AMAD13110
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Andrey Puchinin
sponsor: Plus Bank at Height
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2013-03-17
smtdate: 2013-03-25
termdate: 2013-03-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to bad weather conditions, no fixed ropes
campsites: BC(17/03),ABC(18/03,5100m),C1(19/03,5700m),C2(21/03,5800m),C3(24/03,6300m)
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
routememo:
  The team reached only high point at 6300m on 25 March and had to return due to strong winds and the route up to summit did not have any fixed ropes. Being the first team in season, they were not ready to fix ropes themselves.


expid: AMAD13111
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Andrei Volkov
sponsor: Skolkova Ama Dablam Expedition 2013
approach: Did no climbing
termnote: Abandoned on 2 May due to one member's back pain
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
routememo:
  After climbing Mera Peak on 1 May Andrej Mariev suffered strong back pain, so the team decided to abandon the trip and came back to Kathmandu by helicopter on 3 May.


expid: AMAD13112
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Timur Gaynullin
sponsor: Summit Ama Dablam 2013
approach: Namche->Gorakshep->Pheriche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2013-05-13
smtdate: 2013-05-18
smttime: 1310
termdate: 2013-05-20
campsites: BC(13/05),ABC(14/05,5100m),C1(15/05,5700m),C2(16/05,5900m),C3(17/04,6300m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
routememo:
  5 members started climbing at 4 am on 18 May and summited around 1:10-1:30 pm. Same day returned to C3 at 4:00 pm. Very cold and windy. No any other climbers on that day.

  2 members could not summit due to feeling not so fit; they returned from C3 to BC.

  Sherpa:
    Ngawang Chhongba, 13/9/70???, Siphurcha (sp??), Solu. 
      (according to Ngawang Chhongba, 16 Jan 2014)


expid: ANN413101
peakid: ANN4
year: 2013
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Thailand
leaders: Pakhomrat Pichitdej
sponsor: Annapurna IV Spring 2013
countries: Germany, Poland
bcdate: 2013-04-11
smtdate: 2013-04-20
termdate: 2013-04-24
termnote: Abandoned at 5930m due to snowfall and avalanche
campsites: BC(11/04,3900m),ABC(14/04,4400m),C1(15/04,5380m),C2(20/04,5950m),xxx(20/04,5950m)
agency: Adventure Geo Treks
routememo:
  BC  11 Apr  3900m
  ABC 14 Apr  4400m
  C1  15 Apr  5380m
  C2  20 Apr  5950m
  HPt	20 Apr  5950m by Koniak, Pichitdej, Chumnarnsit, Ponghirunruth and Bader.

  High-point team reached C2 on 20 April. They were on their summit attempt, however, the weather was not good and they waited there for two nights.

  After the Sherpas were told by the agency's weather forecast that the snow showers would continue, they unanimously took the decision to go down. They thought the mountain was too dangerous and the risk of avalanches was too high.

  On the morning of 22 April, they packed up and descended to BC, even though it was a beautiful day. Koniak, who sent the information by email, thinks it was some sort of Sherpa strike. He was very unhappy with what had happened.

  Kontrong, Marid, Senkaew and Watanyousiripunya reached the C1 at 5380m on 15 April. After four nights at C1 they descended to BC and left BC on 20 April to trek back to Manang. They had lost their motivation to carry on the climb.

  Oxygen:
    Not taken, not used

  Sherpas:
    Ganesh Rai, Basa-6, Solu
    Tek Bahadur Rai, Basa-8, Solu
    Dawa Sherpa, Solu
    Ganesh Bahadur, Pawai, Solu
    Dome Sherpa, Kharikhola


  Janusz Koniak's account (by email, 13 June 2013)

  Annapurna IV Thai Expeditions 05-29 April 2013

  Annapurna IV – 7525m – my Dream Mountain (unachieved!) 

  Persons:
  Ganesh – expedition Sirdar and Niru's cousin 
  Niru – director and owner of company Adventure Geo Treks
  Roll – Mr. Roland F. Bader (Germany)

  5th April Arrival to Kathmandu and check in to Tashi Dhele hotel.

  6th April – Briefing in the morning with Niru's company, during which I bought from Sirdar Ganesh a mobile phone Sim card. This particular network operator doesn't work on the trekking way around Annapurna. It was real meanness to offer these Sim cards by company accepting us. The cost of using local phones was generating costs 10-15 times higher than official fees. In the afternoon, only shopping and renting mountain equipment. Welcome dinner.

  7th April – visit at the ministry, collecting permits – continuing shopping during entire afternoon – dinner next to the hotel, I ate two steaks, and as it turned up, it was the very last meat I had during following 3 weeks. It was never said that receiving company will only serve vegetarian food, with no other options (apart from few SPAM cans, which isn't meat anyway).
     
  8th April – finally departure to the mountains. On the suburbs of city, we change vehicles for jeeps. More hours in the cars. Couple of stops on the way. Shopping for drinks, a bit of food, a bit of stretching muscles. We're heading to the mountains; our driver goes through clouds of dust, left by vehicle in front of us. Trying to explain him myself as well as with help of interpreter to increase distance - brings as much result as talking to a donkey, and maybe even giving opposite effect, as he drove even nearer into denser dust and dirt cloud.

  9th April – Moving out of Chame – from Shangrila-La Hotel to Low Pisang. On the way stopover for senseless lunch in Dhukur, in Potala hotel, 30 minutes prior to hiking, Low Pisang and Maya Hotel. Sirdar Ganesh claims that expedition has 28 tents for sleeping – strange - I counted barely 16-17. Packing up tents to take them up the mountain – yet another lie. I bring up the question of meat as I'm fed up of eggs with noodle, potatoes or instant Chinese soups. Sirdar Ganesh claims that in this area, buying meat is impossible due to religious reasons. I order 5-6 kg of fresh meat for myself, on my own cost, with delivery from Chame, and also 10 portions of lunches/dinners – lyophilized food – ready to use at camps prior the summit days. Despite the promises, neither meat nor lyophilized food have arrived. Sirdar Ganesh was trying to give me my own lyophilized food from my luggage - as recently bought, new lyophilized food – a lie. We ate fresh meat after getting down, and I photographed about 20-30 kg of meat in the village nearby, Braga village, therefore excuses about unavailable meat were another lie. Problems with the phone - not working. Other options are extremely expensive and moreover, they do not sell Sim cards with network working in the mountains to tourists.

  10 April -  Low Pisang-Humde and Snow Land hotel. Morning gathering, picture together and trekking groups are on the way. Our group of 9 will depart later, in an hour. Loading belongings on mules, egg breakfast and off we go. I'm calling home from Humde – cannot hear very well. I decided to go on a motorbike to Manang Village, for 2000 rupi, to use a phone, internet and eat a steak – there is a fresh meat in the restaurant – but I did not have enough time. I'm coming back to the group, we eat lunch – eggs and potatoes with curry.
   
  11 April – Humde – Base Camp. In the morning, at last we're on the way to our BC – start around 9:30 am. After relatively short trek – around 12:45, we're at the place. It's strange here. I get into the tent and look for altimeter – shock – we're barely on 3900 meters and according to program, it was supposed to be 4500 meters. We're 600 meters too low! So I ask Sirdar Ganesh why – because of the snow condition, they say. Another lie – the real reason was that there are no porters to take our tents and equipment up the mountain. I'm asking who will be doing it – us and Sherpa. Outrageous.

  12 April – After breakfast, Puja celebration, begging gods of mountains for forbearance. We took out all the alpine equipment. After celebration, we took first cargo to ABC – where it is easy to walk, and no problems with snow occurred. Another lie of Sirdar Ganesh. As the place, it turned up that also ABC is too low, barely on height of 4400 meters. A bit of rest and down the mountain.

  13th April - Thai New Year. A practical day – using Jumer, prussic and figure eight knot. I help with training people as Sirdar Ganesh was alone. The remaining Sherpa were taking our equipment up the mountain, which is meant to be porters' job in standard cases.
   
  14th April – Shortly before the noon, we march to the mountain. I'm leaving as the last person. After around an hour, I managed to catch up with everyone – they are going down due to allegedly bad weather, indeed it is snowing a bit. I refuse to go back and head forward. I wonder what will be further. I have a sleeping bag and some drinks. I arrive to the ABC place. Nothing is prepared, no tents, no kitchen – no nothing. In the store tent I'm preparing organizing some space, change into dry clothes and I wait. Around 4 pm, they are approaching. All of them had eaten lunch in the lunch camp (BC) and left back to the mountains. Sherpa set up tents. Contrary to program, 2 people per tent. How to rest in this kind of conditions? There are no mattresses. Not enough tents. What shall happen next? After setting up a camp, we start a discussion, we're told to go together in the group. I answer that above all, we ought to stick to the program. Sirdar Ganesh has neither satellite phone, nor radio telephone, how does he want to lead the expedition without means of communication and weather forecast? I tell him that his duty it to set up the camps and what I do or where I go is up to me, with Sherpas or alone, I can go between the camps, including climbing up the summit. This made Sirdar Ganesh absolutely furious and he started screaming at me that it is him who is responsible for everything (so I ask why are we only on 4400, and not 4500) – because there is too much snow, there is no money for porters, that they cost so much – I explain that it's his organization problem, we paid to his company and there is no proper food, no porters, and other things, not to mention that we don't follow the program. "I know those stupid Poles" screams Sirdar Ganesh at me, "This is Nepal, and I can do anything" – he screams at me. "You understand? I can do anything", I heard the words ringing in my ears. What a moron one has to be to have this kind of language with a customer? I gave my satellite phone to him (Sirdar Ganesh), so he can send a message with forecast request from their boss – Niru Rin. He wrote it and sent. We received confirmation that the forecast will be sent. Egg dinner and we're off to bed.

  15th April – waking up as usually around 6 am, breakfast, and we're moving to Camp 1. I'm leaving as the last person, as usual, around 10:30 am. Rest on Heli Pad – at 5015m, a perfect place for helicopter airstrip, and off I go up. I'm arriving to the Camp 1 around 4 pm. Sherpa are finishing setting up a camp now. There are 5 tents, 3 pax, 2 pax (me and TJ), 3 pax and in the last one Roll with Sirdar Ganesh. Sherpa walk down. Cooking, drinking, eating and sleep.

  16th April – The rest day – Thais do not want to go down for their belongings – delegation speak with Khun Pa about this matter. They are asking Sherpa to bring their possessions and food (mainly). Me too. If everyone, then everyone.
   
  17th April - Cooking breakfast and on off to the Camp 2. Backpack heavy as hell – over 15 kg. As usually, I'm climbing up as last person. Fully loading a 70 liter backpack is not an easy task. Other have 35 liters and nearly empty, how do they do it? After an hour, I reach everyone, take over, and go further up. I'm getting cold, wind and snow blowing in my face, but I go forward. All Sherpa go back down and to encourage me to also go back, they take my backpack. The Camp 2 is not set up, the weather is too bad. True, it's snowing a bit, but is it really that bad to go back? We're walking back down. Very angry, I take everything out of my backpack to the tent and go back with an empty backpack to ABC. Sitting in Camp 1 is senseless. It doesn't improve acclimatization; it's just stupid sitting in one place. Roll is coming down with me.

  18th  April – Doing nothing and feasting food in ABC, 4400m.

  19th April - Breakfast and up the mountain. Backpack is packed with everything ready for the summit attack. On the helipad (5015m), we meet 4 Thais. They are resigning from expedition and go back down. There are 5 Sherpa and 5 out of 9 climbers, a perfect arrangement. I'm reaching Camp 1 and start cooking. I am alone in the tent. Dinner and I'm going to sleep. We're finally heading to Camp 2 tomorrow.

  20th April - I'm packing. Fluffy sleeping bag, jacket and pants for summit were taken by Sherpa. Once again, I have a full 70 liters backpack. Loads of food for few days awaiting the summit, underwear and all the rest. Over 15kg, maybe a bit over that. I'm leaving as usually as the last person. Walking is more less easy, although slow. I pass the riggings and follow the traces. There are no tracers, if the traces are blown away, how to go further? I think this Sirdar doesn't even know what means tracer, or there are none to save money. I'm climbing up a steep wall. The road is turning right. There's also an abyss on the right. Three ropes are hanging. I'm following mine. It's getting loose, I fall. Why? I’m standing up and walk further, rigging once again is getting loose and I fall down. I have no glasses, so I can't see properly, but there is someone higher, doing something, After getting up, it turned up to be Sirdar Ganesh. I'm walking; rigging is getting loose and I falling down 2, 3 meters. What's going on? My legs are shaking. I can hear shouts telling me to clip to the green rope and I can see some Sherpa – Doma. He's getting ready to slide down to me. He's taking my backpack to help me. Nothing explains what happened to the riggings. I'm getting back on trail. My legs are shaking. I ask Khun Pa for drink and go to the tent. I live with Roll, so there is not much space. He already rolled my sleeping pad, I can rest. Cooking and sleep. Tomorrow will be also a good day. It's snow showering.

  21st April - Break through! I hadn't slept all night, too hot; Malacha's sleeping bag is too good. I stripped all clothes, even though it was 25C below zero. In the morning Tik (Roll's Sherpa) is arriving and he says that there was a 2 feet snow fall and everyone is scared. I say that 2 feet snow wall was perhaps in the valley. They invite me for the conference with Sherpa, all of us, and we discuss what to do next. We barely slept the first night on the 2. Height – about 6000m. Over us, a huge wall of blue ice. Technical difficulties are over. We had option of going around the glacier, there was a valley on the left and reaching the Camp 3. But for the time being, conference with Sherpa. I'm alone, Khun Pa is not here – the tour leader! Roll also not present – well… It's a bit strange. In my satellite phone, I only have weather forecast from Niru:

    21 April – Morning, Day Afternoon and Evning snow shwr.
    22 April – Morning, Day Afternoon and Evning snow shwr.
    23 April – Morning clear, and whole day snow shwr.
    24 April only in the evening clear. Thank You and have a good luck. 

  Nothing regarding height, clouds or wind – its strength or direction. Nothing about temperature. Sherpa based on this forecast unanimously took decision to go down, they are not going any further and not waiting anymore, as it gets more and more dangerous and avalanche is likely to happen. No arguments are accepted. That's it. Going back down… I perceived this decision as Sherpas' strike. We're packing up. The end of dreams, the end of expedition for no logical reasons. Dozens of kilograms of food taken up is going straight to snow, after priory ripping the packages. Packing up the tents. Sherpa secure more people – I go down as last, clipped to a green, dynamic (fortunately) rope. On the top, Sherpa Tik and Dom are clearing the camp. Blizzard – Sirdar Ganesh is exchanging my prussic knot for 6mm string. After one clipping, I change know for my own, it works better. After few steps down, I walked to overhang. On the turning of glacier, there was no equalized anchor and the line of riggings goes in straight line over the glacier's turning in the air. Why didn't Sherpas do security position on the turning – nobody answered me this question. Sirdar Ganesh neither. Gladly, I only fell down 4-5 meters (Under me – hundreds of meters of open space) and the rope managed to break my fall (normal rigging on Blue Ice glacier is cut but ice) as well as prussic knot worked very well. Harnesses almost sank in my tight and banging against glacier renewed recently broken ribs. I sank tops of my crampons in the wall and put on put on the other end of rope Jumar, expecting further action – and it was organized very well. Roll from the bottom, and Sirdar Ganesh with Sherpa Doma took me out of this unpleasant trap. Afterwards it was easy. I can see 2 pairs of Sherpa looking for riggings – the trail was blown away by wind long before. No tracers. We're removing snow from tents in Camp 1, I get inside and nothing changed. Drinking, eating – rest. And I think about the miss fortune. Why did they waste 1 month of our lives? What did they take money for? For trekking? Why are they (Sherpa's) here?

  22nd April - I open the tent – beautiful weather. Breakfast, packing everything and going down, we're sliding down on riggings. Sometimes it's snowing a little. We arrive to ABC, lunch and packing up whatever I had in tent. I inform that I'm going down. Sirdar Ganesh is irritated that there's lots of snow, that it's dangerous, he is so funny – maybe the snow hit his head. I don't want to look at him anymore. At least down there, I will had lunch on my own (in Camp Low BC). I eat lunch with the cook. I got back to the tent, there's lots to think about.

  23rd April – breakfast alone. In the afternoon everyone is going down. Presentation of how to use oxygen bottle. It should be done the first day, not the last. Sirdar is as professional as crackerjack indeed.

  24th April – I'm going with Roll, we're heading to Ngawal on 3700m to stay there over night. On the way, we're eating lunch with fresh meat. It's here – they sell it, delicious – even though I don't know what kind of meat is it. Maybe tasty yak meat?

  25th April – through Ghyaru, we're going by traverse with the path and without the path towards the base camp Pisang Peak. We reach the holy place over Pisang and find path down. 2 days of beautiful views of Annapurna III, IV and II. We're stopping in Maya hotel and even though it's an expedition hotel, Sirdar Ganesh refuses to refund costs of accommodation and food – because we weren't in the group, and this is what was included. Liar or cheater?

  26th April - Low Pisang – Chame. Easy trek. We arrive to Shangri-La Hotel, dinner, alcohol, singing, sleeping.

  27 April – Chame – Kathmandu 12 long hours in the car. On the way beautiful views of Masalu 8000m.

  28 April - I print and show weather forecast from 22 April, present it to Niru – no effects, he thanks for teachings!!! No apologies for wasted month of life and wasted money. In the evening a farewell dinner. I go back hungry to hotel. I buy a beer and it's time to pack up. Tomorrow is our departure back.
   
  29 April, transfer to the airport and the end of nightmare.

  Many thanks for all to ADVENTURE GEO TREKS (P) LTD, to Sirdar Ganesh and for his boss Niru Rin.


expid: BARU13102
peakid: BARU
year: 2013
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Jack Carmody
sponsor: Baruntse-Lhotse Australian Expedition
bcdate: 2013-04-25
smtdate: 2013-04-30
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2013-05-01
termnote: Abandoned at 7030m due to big crevasse at 7030m
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-131-09)
campsites: BC(25/04,5300m),C1(28/04,6100m),C2(29/04,6300m),xxx(30/04,7030m)
agency: Ang Rita Treks
routememo:
  Schweizer left C3 on 30 April at 4 am. Weather was good. He had to manage many crevasses and slipped into two, but his rucksack saved him. Snow very loose as it was too warm. Reached high point at 11 am and spent 1-1/2 hours trying to get across crevasse. He descended to C2, where he arrived at 2 pm. On 1 May to BC and left across Amphu Laptsa to Everest BC.

  John Carmody, Russell Tomlin and Peter Malliaras reached BC, but did not climb because of sickness.


expid: BHRI13101
peakid: BHRI
year: 2013
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Portugal
leaders: Pedro Guedes Vieira
sponsor: Team Expedition Bhrikuti
approach: Jomsom->Kagbeni->Ohling->Sarang->Yara->Tange
bcdate: 2013-05-08
smtdate: 2013-05-11
termdate: 2013-05-12
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to bad weather, wet snow and altitude sickness
campsites: BC(08/05,4750m),C1(10/05,5400m),xxx(11/05,5800m)
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  09 May: the entire team stayed in BC for acclimatization and rest.

  10 May: the entire team went to C1 with 2 porters and one Sherpa (Billing Sherpa); normally the hired people shouldn't have been above BC, but they proposed themselves to carry 3 backpacks to C1. There Miguel Guedes began to show minor signs of cerebral edema (with blood oxygen saturation at 50%). Pedro dismantled one tent, took Miguel's bag and both went back to the BC. 400m below C1, Miguel was already feeling better.

  11 May: Miguel stayed BC for recovery whilst Pedro went back to C1, hoping to reach C2. There he found Sandra Reis with cyanose (lips) and an oxygen saturation at 68%, Edgar Barbosa feeling not good as well (minor signs of AMS). Despite the weather being not so good, he tried to go further alone anyway. After 800m [est. 5800m] under heavy wet snow, he turned around back to C1. Having contacted in the morning his weather forecast guide based in Portugal, he knew the bad weather should last 3 or 4 days again, with lots of snow. With 1 member in BC for recovery and 2 feeling not good at C1, he decided to abandon the climb. C1 was dismantled and everybody slept to BC that night.

  12 May: the team left BC for Tange and back to Jomsom.

  Sherpas:
    Namgyal Zambu, 1980
    Gyalu, 1978
    Rinji, 1965


expid: BIJO13101
peakid: BIJO
year: 2013
route1: N Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
sponsor: Jagdula French Peak Expedition
bcdate: 2013-04-24
smtdate: 2013-04-30
termdate: 2013-05-02
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to cloudy weather
othersmts: Summited Jagdula Peak (by Damilano) and other unnamed peaks
campsites: BC(24/04,4965m),xxx(30/04,5900m)
agency: Yeti Adventure
routememo:
  The expedition's main goal was Bijora Hiunchuli, which is not on the permitted list, but is one of the peaks in the Jagdula range. Jagdula peak is permitted. Bijora Hiunchuli's altitude is given variously as 6011m or 6111m.

  The team started their approach by flying to Nepalgunj on 15 April. They made several camps in the following days. On the 22nd, in order to climb several small mountains in the area, they pitched a low BC north of Bijora Hiunchuli on the east side the Chaudhabas Glacier. On the 24th and 25th, they arrived at BC at 4965m to give access to the north side of the North Ridge. On the 26th they made a deposit camp at 5300m on the north side above BC. On the 27th they returned to BC because some members were developing altitude sickness.

  On 28 April Bijora Hiunchuli was attempted by six members, Baillif, Bonhomme, Castex, Exbrayat, Grobel and Perrette, with their two Nepalese helpers, Dan Bahadur Magar and Jangbu Sherpa. They climbed to 5800m on the North Ridge, but then retreated to BC because they could see bad weather coming with thick clouds approaching.

  At the same time, Damilano and Talopp climbed a small (5328m) unnamed peak just west of BC, reached its summit via its NE Face and returned to BC that day.

  The next day, the members and Sherpas who had been on the unnamed mountain now climbed the same small peak by its NE Ridge and went back to BC the same day.

  On the 30th Baillif, Bonhomme, Castex, Grobel and the two Sherpas made another attempt on Bijora Hiunchuli's North Ridge. This time they reached 5900m, but again were stopped by the clouds. They now descended to low BC.

  Also on 30 April Damilano summited Jagdula Peak, 5764m, east-northeast of Bijora Hiunchuli. He left low BC at 4:00 pm on the 29th and got to the top at 11:00 am the next day. He ascended mixed rock and ice on the SW Face, descended the NW Ridge, and was back in low BC at 4:00 pm of the 30th. 

  Finally on 1 May Exbrayat and Perrette climbed a 5060m unnamed peak just southeast of BC. They went from Low BC up the peaks's North Face to the top to Low BC that day.

  Now the climbing effort was over, and on the 2 May the team left low BC to return to Nepalgunj and Kathmandu.

  One member had dropped out. Perazio's eyesight was affected by the altitude of BC, he could do no climbing, and he left BC on 25th April in a helicopter. This was the team's only health problem.

  Hired:
    Dhan Bahadur Magar, 24/1/86, Wapsa-8, Solu
    Jangbu Sherpa, 23/4/1988, Kapan, Kathmandu


expid: CHOY13108
peakid: CHOY
year: 2013
route1: NW side
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Peter Knyshov
sponsor: Peter Knyshov Cho Oyu Expedition 2013
approach: Kodari->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2013-04-18
smtdate: 2013-05-04
termdate: 2013-05-09
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to lack of equipment and exhaustion
campsites: BC(18/04,4850m),ABC(21/04,5900m),C1(24/04,6400m),C2(03/05,7200m),xxx(04/05,7400m)
agency: Makalu Adventure
routememo:
  4 May: Peter Knyshov attempted to climb up to C3. Around 11:30 am, he fell in a crevasse up to his chest, managing to get out of it alone with his ice axes. Decided to come back to C2 after that and wait for somebody to climb with, as no fixed ropes were put at all above C2. He slept there again the nights of 4th, 5th and 6th of May (4 nights at C2). Then on the 7th, seeing that nobody was coming who with he could have teamed up with, feeling exhausted, he went back to the ABC.

  On the 8th, as the Americans just arrived in BC and Austrians seemed not ready to go up, he realized that in 2 or 3 days nobody would ever put fix ropes above C2. Feeling already tired as the recovery at ABC was not efficient, he decided to cancel the summit and postpone his attempt to the next time.

  According to Knyshov, Snowy Horizon Sherpas didn't target to attempt for the summit. Peter Knyshov waited 3 nights at C1 for these Sherpas to put fixed ropes over seracs laying between C1 and C2. For Peter Knyshov there has been a big waste of time, as the weather was not too bad during time he spent on the mountain (5 days of storm otherwise fine conditions). But none from Snowy Horizons Sherpas or the independent Austrians wanted to work for the track. In fact, according to Makalu Adventure, it seems CTMA is supposed by contract to put fixed ropes anywhere on the mountain (in partnership with the agencies). Was not efficient, Peter Knyshov thought he could just follow the fixed ropes up to the summit like this).


expid: CHOY13109
peakid: CHOY
year: 2013
route1: NW side
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Richard Bolt
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Cho Oyu Expedition 2013
countries: Austria
bcdate: 2013-05-12
smtdate: 2013-05-22
smttime: 0715
termdate: 2013-05-24
othersmts: Summited Xixabangma on 9 May (Bolt, Fricer, Kirchgatterer, Lehner)
campsites: BC(12/05,5100m),ABC13/05,5750m),C1(19/05,6400m),C2(20/05,7100m),C3(21/05,7550m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  Before attempting Cho Oyu, the expedition went to Xixabangma. Four members, Bolt, Fricker, Kirchgatterer and Lehner, with all four of their climbing Sherpas, summited it on 9 May. Then to Cho Oyu and Chinese BC three days later. (Fricker, Odermatt and Sigrist left the team after Xixabangma.)

  Their summit bid on Cho Oyu was made by just three members: Bolt, Buel and Merat, who left C3 for the top with their four Sherpas at 1:00 am (NST) on 22nd May. One Sherpa, Ngima Chhiring [Lama], dropped out at the Yellow Band (7700m) to return to C3 and made tea, while all the others continued to the summit. The members arrived there between 7:15 am (Bolt) and 8:15 am (Merat).

  The summit party descended all the way to ABC, where they arrived about 5:00 pm that day. After they had spent two nights in ABC, the entire team left ABC on the 24th and reached the Last Resort in Nepal that day and were in Kathmandu on the 25th.

  Sherpas:
    Kusang Tenzing Sherpa, 16/5/86, Lelep-9, Taplejung
    Lila Bahadur Tamang, 15/9/77, Sardikhola-5, Kaski
    Ngima Chhiring Lama, 15/9/73, Yamphudin-3, Taplejung
    Tenji Sherpa, 16/4/81, Tapting-7, Solu


expid: CHOY13110
peakid: CHOY
year: 2013
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Scott Patch
sponsor: SummitClimb Cho Oyu Expedition 2013
countries: Denmark, Germany, UK
bcdate: 2013-04-29
smtdate: 2013-05-21
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2013-05-24
campsites: BC(29/04,5100m),ABC(30/04,5600m),C1(03/05,6400m),C2(09/05,7000m),C3(20/05,7500m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  Four expedition members and three Sherpas occupied C3 on 20 May and went for the top from the camp at 2:00 am (NST) on the 21st. They summited at 8:30 am on the 21st of May and descended to C2 at 5:00 pm.

  The members of the summit party were Budge, Herrick, Martersteck and Patch with Lhakpa Tendu, Ngima and Tenji Sherpa.

  Non-summiting members:

  Stephanie Kaiser and her husband, Reinhard Kaiser, were semi-independent members of this team. Stephanie developed altitude sickness in C1 and they left on 17 May.

  Kristensen reached only C1, but he was satisfied with that achievement. He stayed in BC until the end of the climb.

  Marham climbed to C2 only, had difficulty breathing, which was attributed to the effects of high altitude, and left on 17 May.

  Oxygen was used by summiting members in and from C2 to the top and back to C2. Their Sherpas didn't use any.

  Summiting Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Tendu, 28/3/77 (15/12/2033) Patle, Okhaldhunga
    Ngima Sherpa, 14/4/71 (1/1/2028), Patle
    Tenji Sherpa, 1/6/82, Patle, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X1


expid: DANS13201
peakid: DANS
year: 2013
route1: S side
nation: Japan
leaders: Seishi Wada
sponsor: Japanese Danphe Shail expedition
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Wada's intent was to go on a long trek rather than climb Danphe Sail. He started in Langtang area then moved to Annapurna area, and then finally to Manang area. He reached as far as Phugaon, but couldn't reach Danphe Sail BC due to heavy rain.


expid: DHA113104
peakid: DHA1
year: 2013
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Chizuko Kono
sponsor: Japanese Dhaulagiri I
bcdate: 2013-04-25
smtdate: 2013-05-23
termdate: 2013-05-29
termnote: Abandoned at 8060m due to bad weather and subsequent death of Kono
campsites: BC(25/04,4670m),C1(01/05,5900m),C2(19/05,6550m),C3(20/05,7000m),C4(21/05,7250m),xxx(23/05,8060m)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  BC  25 Apr  4670m
  C1  01 May  5900m
  C2  19 May  6550m
  C3  20 May  7000m
  C4  21 May  7250m
  HPt 23 May  8060m by Kono, Dawa and Dawa Sherpa.

  On 22 May high point team started their summit attempt and left C4 at 10:30 pm. Around 2 pm they reached 8060m. The two Dawas tried to help the fallen Spanish climber, Juanjo Garra for about one hour. Afterwards they continued to climb but the weather deteriorated and the team decided to turn back. At about 7900m the winds got so strong and visibility so low that they stopped at 6 pm. They waited for two hours. Kono was very weak and was unable to move. The Sherpas tried to drag her down, but when they reached 7700m at 10 pm Kono died, probably of high altitude sickness. Dawa and Dawa bivouacked around that altitude and descended to C4 the next day. Kono's body was left at 7700m.

  On the descent. Dawa must have slipped as he never arrived at C4. Dawa from Loding was too tired to look for him and stayed at C4 for two nights as he was so exhausted. He descended to C2 on 27 May. He was rescued by helicopter from C2.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from BC to high point to BC by Kono
    Taken and used from C4 to high point to C4 by Dawa (Loding)
    Taken and used from C4 to high point to point of death by Dawa

  Sherpas:
    Dawa, Loding (Tamakhani), Solukhumbu, 16/6/69
    Dawa, Tapting-9, Solukhumbu, 1971


expid: DHA113105
peakid: DHA1
year: 2013
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Manuel Gonzalez
sponsor: Bochi Bochi Mt. Dhaulagiri Expedition 2013
approach: Darbang->Italian BC->BC
bcdate: 2013-04-25
smtdate: 2013-05-23
termdate: 2013-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to Garra's fall
campsites: BC(25/04,4670m),ABC(27/04,5900m),C1(29/04,6550m),C2(21/05,7250m),xxx(23/05,8000m)
accidents: Fatal fall by Garra Lorenzo
agency: Bochi Bochi Treks
routememo:
  BC  25 Apr  4670m
  C1  27 Apr  5900m
  C2  29 Apr  6550m
  C3  21 May  7250m
  HPt	23 May  8000m by Garra, Gonzalez, Keshab Gurung.

  High-point team intended to summit from C3 and were on their summit push. They departed at 11 pm on 22 May. Weather was perfect. They fixed some rope at 7500m for the traverse. At about 2 pm Gonzalez rang Osiel Cardenas at base camp to find out where the right route would go up to the top. When he made the call, Gonzalez was just a little bit below Garra and Keshab. When he realized that they were not on the right route, he shouted to Garra and Keshab to tell them that they should stop and come back. At this moment, he saw both men fall (they were on a rope together) tumbling down for about 100m. They stopped just outside the tracks.

  Gonzalez climbed towards them and they noticed that Garra must have broken his leg as he could not move it and he was in a lot of pain. Gonzalez and Keshab tried to pull Garra down with a rope, but it was not very effective. They managed about 100m. At 6 pm, Keshab and Gonzalez decided to go down to C3 to get a sleeping bag, cooker and oxygen; however, after about two hours Keshab decided to go back up to be with Garra.

  Gonzalez reached C3 at 1 am on 24 May. The next morning he descended to C1, where he stayed the night. On his way down he saw Ms. Kono the Japanese lady, crouched on a rock feeling very tired. She was at about 7500m and Gonzalez could not see a Sherpa anywhere. As Kono was very unwell Gonzalez rang BC to get help, but they told him to go down as they could not do anything for her. He carried on to C1 and on 26 May he descended to BC.

  He was too tired to go back up to rescue Garra and he thought it would be better to help organize the rescue. In the meantime Keshab had dragged Garra down to about 7600m, but exhausted himself completely. They were up there without sleeping bags, tents, cookers or anything that could keep them warm and hydrated.

  On 24 May three Sherpas of Seven Summit Treks arrived by helicopter and were dropped 6100m. They reached C2 and stayed the night. On 25 May they ascended to C3 and crossed Gonzalez on his way to BC. The three Sherpas were very slow and did not seem to be very experienced. On 26 May they were on their way up to Garra. That day, Keshab decided to go down as he was very tired and dehydrated. On his descent he crossed the three rescue Sherpas and one went down with him and the other two went up to Garra. They still found Garra alive, but not well: however, they thought they could not do much for him.

  On 26 May Fishtail dropped Jorge Egocheaga and a Sherpa at C3. Alex Txikon and Ferran La Torre were dropped at 6200m. The three had just climbed Lhotse and were picked up at EBC by Simone Moro. At 9 pm Egocheaga and the Sherpa reached Garra, who was on his own as the other two Sherpas had left by then. Garra was still alive when they arrived, but died at 9:45 pm. Egocheaga and the Sherpa descended to C3, where they found Keshab barely alive. Txikon and La Torre had also arrived at C3 at that time.

  On 27 May Keshab was picked up from C3 by long-line. The 3 Sherpas and the 3 Spanish were picked up from C3. Gonzalez was picked up from BC on 26 May and flew to Pokhara. Keshab was immediately taken to hospital in Kathmandu and was expected to leave on 30 May.

  Garra will stay in the mountains.

  Osiel Cardenas reached 6900m on 21 May. He was sick with fever and a cold and did not continue.

  Oxygen:
    Not taken, not used

  Sherpas:
    Keshab Gurung, Laprak-4, Gorkha, 31/3/79


  Mingma Gyabu - 8 Oct 2017

  On 24 May Mingma Gyabu he received a phone call from Seven Summit Treks who told him that they needed a rescue team for Dhaulagiri I. He then formed a team with Ferran Latorre, Alex Txikon and Jorge Egocheaga to go to Dhaulagiri for the rescue.

  On 26 May Mingma Gyabu and the three Spaniards flew by helicopter to Kathmandu and from there to Dhaulagiri BC, where they arrived at about 11 am. Other Sherpas rescued an Indian climber between C1 and C2. Mingma Gyabu and three Spaniard were taken from BC to the col at about 6500m. Egocheaga thought that Mingma Gyabu was the lightest to be taken up to 7400m near C3 by longline. Egocheaga was also taken to 7400m. Mingma Gyabu and Egocheaga climbed to 7900m where Garra was. Mingma Gyabu reached him at about 8:30 pm. On his way up he met Keshab, who was also in a bad state, with three Sherpas, who were bringing Keshab down. When Mingma Gyabu reached Garra at about 8:30 pm he was already dead. He descended to Keshab and the other Sherpas. They got Keshab down to C3 (he could walk but only with a lot of assistance), where they arrived at about midnight. Egocheaga was already in C3 and Latorre and Txikon were coming up from C2. Everyone stayed at C3 that night. Kehab was very weak during the night. Around 1 am they informed BC about the stituation. On 27 May around 9 am, Mingma Gyabu and Keshab left C3. They had called a helicopter to pick Keshab up by longline. Mingma Gyabu was on his own with Keshab, everyone else had left earlier. At around 10:30 am, the helicopter came and Mingma Gyabu put Keshab on the longline at about 7200m. Mingma Gyabu continued to C2, where the three Spaniards and the three Sherpas were. They were all picked up by the helicopter and flown to BC. They were then taken by helicopter to Pokhara and then Kathmandu.


expid: DHA113106
peakid: DHA1
year: 2013
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Dominik Mueller
sponsor: Amical Alpin Dhaulagiri I Expedition 2013
countries: Austria
approach: Beni->Kali Gandaki Valley->BC
bcdate: 2013-04-28
smtdate: 2013-05-26
termdate: 2013-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(28/04,4670m),C1(03/05,5900m),C2(06/05,6550m),C3(21/05,7250m),xxx(26/05,7600m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  28 Apr  4670m
  C1  03 May  5900m
  C2  06 May  6550m
  C3  21 May  7250m
  HPt 26 May  7600m by Mueller at 7 am for rescue of Juanjo Garra.

  On their summit attempt Bauer, Kurz, Hohlleben and Mueller reached C3 at 3 pm on 21 May. As the weather forecast had changed and was no longer good enough for the summit, Mueller decided to wait another day. After he had spoken to the weather service again on 22 May and the weather was not going to improve, he decided to abandon the expedition. They descended to C1 on 23 May. On 24 May to BC.

  Schmid reached C2 on 6 May on first acclimatization rotation. He did not join summit attempt as he found the mountain too risky.

  Sieveking got a bad cough and fever when he got to BC and was picked up by helicopter on 30 April.

  Oxygen:
    Not taken, not used


  Rescue of Juanjo Garra:

  When Mueller came down from C1 on 24 May, he joined the meetings that were held for the rescue of Juanjo Garra. On 24 May the first helicopter arrived to look for Juanjo. On 25 May three rescue Sherpas were flown in from Kathmandu and were dropped at 6100m and continued to C2. In the afternoon, the helicopter dropped Mueller at 6100m to join the rescue. He climbed to C2, where he arrived at 6 pm. The Indian team and Dawa Sherpa of Expedition Himalaya (Chizuko Kono) came down and Muller made from tea and stayed there until 10 pm. He then ascended to C3 (route was difficult to negotiate as a lot of the anchors of the fixed rope had come loose), where he arrived at 4:30 am.

  He woke up the three rescue Sherpas, who continued climbing. Mueller also carried on to 7600m. He was looking for Juanjo and Keshab, but could not find them. As he had been going for a long time, he noticed that he was getting exhausted and decided to turn back as he knew that the Sherpas were on their way.

  On his way down, he was hit by gas cyclinders, ice screws, etc. that were melting out of the flank. He was picked up by a Fishtail helicopter 6800m at about 2 pm on 26 May. Later that afternoon he heard that the Sherpas had reached Juanjo, but could not do anything. Mueller and his team left BC.

  Chizuko Kono

  According to Mueller, Kono died at about 7700m on 24 May. She had been using oxygen from BC and was exhausted at that point. Dawa stayed with her until she died. Dawa also lost a climbing Sherpa, another Dawa Sherpa. He disappeared below C4 and was never seen again.


expid: DHA113107
peakid: DHA1
year: 2013
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Jerzy Natkanski
sponsor: Polish Dhaulagiri Expedition 2013
bcdate: 2013-04-10
smtdate: 2013-05-22
termdate: 2013-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to route finding difficulty and bad weather
campsites: BC(10/04,4700m),C1(17/04,5000m),C2(23/04,6500m),C3(21/05,7200m),xxx(22/05,8100m)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 below Col
  C2 on NE Ridge
  C3 on NE Ridge
  High point on NE Ridge.

  The NE Ridge, where they were climbing, was covered by hard blue ice at altitudes around 7000m and thus very difficult to ascend. They were forced to bivouac on 20 May at 7000m because of the ice, and because a strong wind was blowing. However, six members and one Sherpa managed to establish C3 at 7200m the next day, 21 May.

  The six members were Bielecka, Cholewa, Natkanski, Stys, Tomala, and Zaluski. Cholewa had his own Sherpa because he had pulmonary edema ten years previously.

  On 22 May at 2:30 am, Bielecka, Cholewa, Stys and Tomala and the Sherpa left C3 for the summit and reached 7400m. Because of the strong wind, Cholewa, Stys and Tomala retreated to C1, arriving there after 3:00 pm. But Bielecka continued trying for the top. She reached 8100m at 4:00 pm with the two members of a separate team, Pawel Michalski (also Polish) and Simone La Terra (Italian).

  The three stopped climbing at 8100m because they now realized that they had made the wrong choice to stay on the NE Ridge instead of traversing slightly onto the North Face as the best approach to the summit. They were back in C2 at 10:00 pm.

  Miotk and Zebracki had left the team on 10 May because they were not very strong, and Zebracki was not well.


expid: DHA113103
peakid: DHA1
year: 2013
route1: NE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Basanta Kumar Singha Roy
sponsor: Bengal Dhaulagiri Expedition
approach: Beni->Darban by bus->Khamla->Boghara->Dobang->Italian BC
bcdate: 2013-04-26
smtdate: 2013-05-21
termdate: 2013-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 8050m due to accident of Juanjo Garra
campsites: BC(26/04,4752m),C1(30/04,5800m),C2(04/05,6400m),C3(21/05,7400m),xxx(23/05,8050m)
agency: Loben Expeditions
routememo:
  The Singha Roy team left C3 with three Sherpas at 10:45 pm on 22 May. Mukherjee was too slow, so decided to turn around from 7600m with Dawa Wangchuk Sherpa to C3. Two members and Sherpas continued and reached 8050m at 3 pm on 23 May. But suddenly one of the Sherpa of Spanish team (Keshab) and Juanjo Gara (Spanish member) who was leading at that time for summit, slipped and rolled down and arrested themselves 100m below. Seeing this accident and also the time the team already had spent for summit bid, the team (leader, Biswas, Pemba Chhuti and Pasang) took the decision to return. After 4-5 hours of descent their supplementary oxygen exhausted; for this reason Singha Roy could not continue their descent. He had to stop an altitude 7800/7900m in open air and Pemba and Biswas was able to go down to Japanese tent next morning 7600m (put up by Japanese lady). Pasang stayed at some safe place below Singha Roy. On 24 May morning Dawa Wangchuk came up from C3 and assisted Singha Roy to go down giving him supplementary oxygen and they came down to Japanese camp in the evening. Next day 25 May Singha Roy reached C3 with Dawa and then heli-lifted to BC then to Kathmandu. Biswas, Mukherjee and two Sherpas rescued from C1 (5800m) to BC by helicopter on 26 May then to Pokhara.

  Weather conditions on summit day 23 May was good, but with high-speed gusts occasionally during day time. No snowfall on the summit day.

  Oxygen: 3 members used oxygen from C3 to 8050m and back. Only Pemba used oxygen from C3 to summit approach.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Chhuti Sherpa, 15/7/73, Yaphu-9, Makalu, Everest X1, Kangch X1 with 
      Basanta Kumar Singha Roy
    Dawa Wangchuk Sherpa 
    Pasang Phutar Sherpa, 8/7/61, Yaphu-9, Makalu, Everest X1, Kangch X1 with 
      Singha Roy


expid: EVER13155
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Christopher Klinke
sponsor: Rolwaling Excursion Everest 2013
countries: Indonesia, Poland, Sweden
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2013-04-21
smtdate: 2013-05-23
smttime: 0500
termdate: 2013-05-26
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-131-05)
campsites: BC(21/04,5350m),C1(27/04,6000m),C2(28/04,6400m),C3(02/05,7300m),C4(21/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  BC  21 Apr  5350m
  C1  27 Apr  6000m
  C2  28 Apr  6400m
  C3  02 May  7300m
  C4  21 May  7900m
  Smt 23 May  by Klinke, Johnson, Meyer, Hallstrom, Cieszewski, Rimbawan, Luthpi,
              Tashi, Furtemba, Damai Chhiri, Lhakpa Tshering, Nima Kanchha, Angdu, 
              Mingma Chhiri, Shyam Bahadur Tamang at 5 am.

  Team arrived at South Col at 10 am on 21 May. They were intending to summit on 22 May, but weather was bad at 9:30 pm, so they deferred to 23 May for a summit attempt. Summit team and Wroblewski left C4 between 8 pm and 9:30 pm. Weather was calm and clear. At 9 pm Wroblewski turned back at 8100m due to lack of motivation. Rest of team continued. Spent 20 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at 6 pm. Wroblewski had waited at C4 for them and descended to C2 with them. On 24 May to BC.

  Sherpas:
    Angdu, Gaurishankar-3, Dolakha, 10/9/79
    Mingma Chhiri, Beding, Dolakha, 19/1/72
    Damai Chhiri, Sikli, Jubing, 19/6/75
    Furtemba (Phurba Temba), Gaurishankar-3, Dolakha, 11/10/84
    Syam Bahadur Tamang, Simigaon, Ghaurishankar-3, Dolakha, (2036/7/7)
    Lhakpa Tshering, Namche-3, Khumbu, (2040/7/25)
    Nima Kanchha, Thame, Khumbu, (2036/5/14)
    Tashi, Namche, Namche-3, (2036/1/05)


expid: EVER13156
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: William McFatter
sponsor: British Everest Expedition
approach: Kodari->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2013-04-14
smtdate: 2013-05-15
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2013-05-23
campsites: BC(14/04,5600m),ABC(19/04,6400m),C1(05/05,7000m),C2(13/05,7800m),C3(15/05,8300m),Smt(15/05)
accidents: Namgyal Sherpa died of apparent heart attack
agency: Mountain Consult
routememo:
  BC  14 Apr  5200m
  ABC 19 Apr  6400m
  C1  05 May  7000m
  C2  13 May  7800m
  C3          8300m
  Smt 15 May  by McFatter, Namgyal, Galden at 10 am.

  Summit team left C2 at 8 pm. It took 4 hours to get to C3. They did not have a tent there and the only tent there belonged to the rope-fixing team. The weather was good. They spent 40 minutes on the summit and started their descent. The weather changed at about 1:30 pm and it got very windy. The team descended to C3, where they arrived at 5 pm. They got into the rope-fixer's tent to rest and protect themselves from the high winds. McFatter left for his descent at 6 am. It was still very windy. Namgyal and Galden left a little bit later. When McFatter reached the top end of C2, Galden had caught up with him. He was very upset and told McFatter that Namgyal had died of what was probably a heart attack between C2 and C3. When the two were going down together, Namgyal had complained of pain around his heart and sat down. Galden quickly cranked up the oxygen, but Namgyal died very quickly. He left the body and descended to C2.

  At C2, McFatter and Galden rested in a Chinese tent. McFatter was thinking about going back up, but Galden stopped him. By that time it was about 5:30 pm. They left the Chinese tent and descended further to their tent where they spent the night. On 16 May they descended to C1, where they spent the night. ABC on 17 May.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C2 to top to C2 (or point of death) by all

  Sherpas:
    Galden, Cheremy, Bung-9, Solukhumbu, 6/12/86
    Namgyal Sherpa, Rakha Bangdel, Khotang, 5/10/77 (Died)


expid: EVER13157
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Wally Berg
sponsor: Berg Adventures Everest 2013
countries: Canada
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2013-04-05
smtdate: 2013-05-17
smttime: 0710
termdate: 2013-05-21
campsites: BC(05/04,5350m),C1(14/04,5800m),C2(16/04,6400m),C3(04/05,7300m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  BC  05 Apr  5350m
  C1  14 Apr  6000m
  C2  16 Apr  6400m
  C3  04 May  7300m
  C4  15 May  7900m
  Smt 17 May  by Whittington and Dawa Nuru at 7:10 am, Pendleton and Tashi at 
              7:30 am.

  Summit team and Daniel Branham left the South Col at 7 pm on 16 May. They had already spent one night there. It was very windy. IMG had started at 11 pm and turned all their clients around due to high winds. The other teams were the Pune Indian team and Corina O'Lany from Brazil.

  At about 8400m, Branham realized that he was climbing too slowly for Wally Berg's time goal and decided to turn back. He was back at the South Col at 12:30 am on 17 May.

  The rest of the team carried on climbing. The winds were very high and Pendleton had very cold toes on his right foot, but he did not get any frostbite. They stayed about 45 minutes on the top and descended to C4, where they arrived at 1 pm. By that time Branham had descended to C2.

  On 18 May, Pendleton descended to BC and Whittington descended to C2.

  Wally Berg was the expedition leader, but never intended to climb.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to summit to C3 by members and Sherpas

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Nuru (Danuru), Phortse, Khumbu, 19/5/59 [26/10/78]
    Phu Tashi Phortse, Khumbu, 23/10/77


expid: EVER13158
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: SW Face
nation: Russia
leaders: Alexei Bolotov
sponsor: International Everest SW Face Expedition
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2013-04-13
smtdate: 2013-05-05
termdate: 2013-05-16
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to Bolotov's death
campsites: BC(13/04,5300m),C2(15/04,6700m),xxx(05-06/05,8000m)
accidents: Death of Alexei Bolotov
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  The team had lots of time left on the mountain and permit for the whole SW Face (West Ridge included) of Everest and West Face of Lhotse (where they did set a light C3 later joined by the unfortunate Moro, Steck and Griffith).

  The team began its acclimatization on the 1963 American route, bivying first time on the West Shoulder at 7200m on the 23rd of April. Then they had a rest of a few dasy in Dingboche to recover and regenerate (during that time they left all the their food, gas and equipment on the mountain for Moro, Steck and Griffith). In a second way up they slept on the 1st of May on the same West Shoulder, then they reached a high bivy place on the West Ridge probably at 8000m where they slept the nights of 5th and 6th of May. On 7th of May they were back to the base camp.

  From that moment they were ready to go for their alpine-ascent attempt on a new route of the SW Face (the route on right side, attempted in 1969 by the Japanese Sato/Nakajime 1972 by the British Haston/Whillans and Austrians - Huber/Kuen and 1973 by other Japanese). From their ABC (normal C2) the team intended to climb the whole face in 6 days. They had time to recover for a second attempt if necessary.

  On 15 May Alexei started at 3:30 am from the base camp to get a panoramic session with sunrise pictures of the SW Face of Everest. He followed the route attempted in 2009 by a Russian team on this face of Nuptse (North Ridge of snow dome where apparently their old fixed ropes were still standing.)

  At 5 am, Denis started to follow the same route and found Bolotov's body at 5400m at 6:30 am. The body was wrapped up in broken old fixed ropes (head practically separated from the body) denoting a clear fall may be due to rupture of an old fixed rope. Denis has no idea of what can have happened, the later autopsy revealing multiple head injuries. Then he went back to the base camp and reported to the liaison officer.

  On 16 May: at 12 am Damian Benegas, Lakpa Sherpa and Denis were dropped by Maurizion and Falini, both helicopter pilots, at Bolotov's body place. There they moved his body 100m below to get a safer place for helicopter landing. In a first push the helicopter took the body at 1:30 pm back to the base camp, then same in a second one for Denis, Damian and Lakpa Sherpa. Then the body and Denis flew to Lukla, then to Kathmandu always by helicopter. At 5 pm the same 16th May the body was directly transfered from its arrival to the teaching hospital freezer.

  As Bolotov didn't have an insurance, his Russian mountaineer friends found a way to pay the cost of the funeral company and repatriation fees. The money arrived 17 May morning then the post mortem occured the same day and the body was repatriated on the 18 May with Denis back to Russia.

  Denis Urubko was very shocked, didn't sleep for two nights and only began to recover on 17 May in the morning. He lost his previous teammate Sergei Samoilov in the same Khumbu area. Bolotov was his friend since 18 years.


expid: EVER13160
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Satish Sharma
sponsor: National Cadet Corps (NCC) Everest Expedition 2013
countries: Nepal
approach: Jiri->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2013-04-22
smtdate: 2013-05-19
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2013-05-24
campsites: BC(22/04,5350m),C1(26/04,6000m),C2(29/04,6400m),C3(17/05,7200m),C4(18/05,8000m),Smt(19-20/05)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  BC  22 Apr  5350m
  C1  26 Apr  6000m
  C2  29 Apr  6400m
  C3  17 May  7200m
  C4  18 May  8000m
  Smt 19 May  by Chirom, Khimi, Kumar, Negi, Phairembam, Raturi, Ramesh, Dorchi,
              Dawa Chhiri, Pemba Tenjing, Gyaljen Nuru, Pemba Gyalje, Nima Tenzi,
              Ngima Nuru at 7:30 am
  Smt 20 May  by Chand, Malik, Rai, Boktapa, Thakur, Tendi Wangya, Tashi Chomphel,
              Pemba Nuru, Nurbu Chhiring, Pemba Tenzi, Pasang Angchuk at 6:35 am.

  19 May summit team left C4 at 8 pm on 19 May. It was clear, but windy. Team stayed about 15 minutes on the summit. Good views. They descended to C2, where they arrived at 4:30 pm. On 20 May they descended to BC.

  20 May summit team left C4 at 7:30 pm. It was windy. Stayed about 15 minutes on the summit. Descended to C2 where they arrived at 6 pm. Next day to BC.

  Khatri reached C3 on 18 May; he was exhausted and descended to C2.

  Krishnankutty reached 8350m on 19 May at 11:30 pm; he was exhausted and descended to C4.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members
    From C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Chhiri (Dawa Tsiri), Kurima, Lokhim, Solu, 20/2/67
    Pemba Tenjin, Phurte, Khumbu, 2/2/1976
    Pemba Gyalje, Pangkoma, Solu, 29/11/73
    Nima Tenji (Nima Tenzing), Paiya, Jubing, Solu 1980
    Ngima Nuru, Tesho, Khumbu, 6/11/81
    Pemba Nuru, Ghat, Khumbu, 17/1/70
    Pem Tenji (Pemba Tenzi), Sotang, Solu, 24/9/63
    Pasang Angchuk, Gyabla, Lelep-8, Taplejung, 15/2/84
    Dorchi Sherpa, Namche-5, Khumbu, 22/4/67
    Gyaljen Nuru, Jubing-1, Solu, 26/10/88
    Tendi Wangya, Namche-5, Khumbu, 23/4/83
    Tashi Chumpel, Lelep-9, Taplejung, 15/5/83
    Nurbu Chhiring, Bamti Bhandar, Ramechap, 29/5/87


expid: EVER13161
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Kenton Cool
sponsor: Dream Guides Everest Expedition 2013
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2013-04-21
smtdate: 2013-05-19
smttime: 0145
termdate: 2013-05-22
othersmts: Summited Nuptse on 16 May (NUPT-131-01) and Lhotse on 20 May (LHOT-131-06)
campsites: BC(21/04,5350m),C2(28/04,6400m),C3(11/05,7300m),C4(18/04,7900m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  On 17 May Cool and Dorje Gyalgen moved to C3 of Everest and went to the South Col on 18 May, where they arrived at around noon. Cool and Dorje Gyalgen left the South Col for the summit at 7:30 pm on 18 May. Perfect conditions, but many people. They summited at 1:45 am in complete darkness and spent about 20 minutes on the summit. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 4 am.

  Cool was climbing on his own, as his Nigerian/UK client Latifu Kolawole Abiola, never made it to Nepal. He had other political engagements and cancelled the expedition.

  Oxygen:
    Nuptse without oxygen
    C3 to Everest summit to C4 to Lhotse Summit to C3 by Cool
    C4 to Everest summit to C4 by Dorje Gyalgen

  Sherpa:
    Dorje Gyalzen, Pangboche, Khumbu, 16/07/1982


expid: EVER13162
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Brazil
leaders: Karina Oliani
sponsor: Mini no Topo do Mundo to Everest
countries: USA
bcdate: 2013-04-11
smtdate: 2013-05-17
smttime: 0738
termdate: 2013-05-19
campsites: BC(11/04,5350m),C1(22/04,5900m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3(14/05,7100m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  Oliani and Pemba left C4 for the top at 8:00 pm on the 16 May and reached the summit at 7:38 am on the 17th. They had to battle 65/mph winds in a temperature of minus 40 degrees. Oliani said she was able to stand up very little of the time; most of the time she bent over the fixed rope. Both of her cheeks were wind-burned, and one of her fingers was still numb four days after her summit day. Five of Pemba's fingers were also still numb.

  They descended to C2 on the 17th and to BC on the 18th. She took a helicopter from BC to Lukla on the 19th.

  Oliani used three bottles of oxygen on 16-17 May in her summit push. To make sure that she would reach the top, her teammate, Scott Simper, gave her his own extra cyclinder; he made no bid to gain the summit with her. He and Mingmar turned down on the 16th and descended to C2 that day. 

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Sherpa, 6/1/80, Patle-4, Okhaldhunga
    Mingmar [Dorje]


expid: EVER13165
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Sanjay Pandit
sponsor: Runner Sanjay Pandit's Peace Journey from Swarga Dwari Everest
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2013-04-17
smtdate: 2013-05-19
smttime: 0956
termdate: 2013-05-23
campsites: BC(17/04,5300m),C1(24/04,6100m),C2(16/05,6400m),C3(17/05,7500m),C4(18/05,7850m),Smt(19/05)
accidents: Pandit frostbitten toe
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Pandit and his Sherpa Chhepal started their summit push from C4 at 7:15 pm on 18 May. The Pandit team got to the top at 9:56 am on 19 May, stayed on summit for 15 minutes and descended to C4 where they arrived at 2 pm. Next day 20 May they spent night at C2 and on 21 May they went down to BC. The team was stuck at the Hillary Step for about 2 hours on the ascent. Summit day weather was good, but on descent it was cloudy and windy from South Summit until they reached C4. There were 30-40 climbers ahead of Pandit team. Pandit realized frostbite in his toe at C2 when pain started.


expid: EVER13166
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Michael Horst
sponsor: Arabs with Altitude to Everest (Alpine Ascents)
countries: Iran, Palestine, Qatar
bcdate: 2013-04-16
smtdate: 2013-05-22
smttime: 0945
termdate: 2013-05-24
campsites: BC(16/04,5350m),C1(21/04,6000m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3(19/05,7400m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(22/05)
accidents: Kalafahi slight frostbite
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  The team's five members plus two Sherpas (Kami Rita and Phura Kancha) and Elia Saikaly, a film-maker with the bigger Everest expedition led by Garrett Madison (both teams organized by Alpine Ascents International) left C4 for the top on 21 May at 10:00 pm, and moving slowly, all of them gained the summit at 9:45 am on 22 May. Still going very slowly, they did not return to C4 until 5:00 pm. The next day, the 23rd, they were in C2, and on the 24th they descended to BC and took a helicopter to Kathmandu that day.

  All used oxygen: members from C2 to the top to C2, Sherpas in and from C4 to the top to and in C4.

  Kalafchi got frostbite on the first digits of two toes. They were not seriously damaged; four days later they were blistering.

  This team shared Sherpas with Garrett Madison's group: at varying times, as many as 10 worked with Horst's party and the other 20 with Madison's.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Kami Rita, 17/1/70, Thami
      Had already summited Everest on 10 May on the rope-fixing team
    Phura Kancha, 17/1/77, Thami
      Had already summited Everest on 10 May on the rope-fixing team


expid: EVER13168
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Garrett Madison
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Everest Expedition 2013
countries: Australia, Canada, Netherlands, Saudi Arabia, Switzerland
bcdate: 2013-04-14
smtdate: 2013-05-18
smttime: 0745
termdate: 2013-05-21
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-131-20)
campsites: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(21/04,5900m),C2(23/04,6500m),C3(15/05,7400m),C4(17/05,7900m),Smt(18,22/05)
achievment: 1st Saudi woman summiter
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  Closely associated with this expedition was a five member, two-Sherpa team named Arabs with Altitude led by Michael Horst.

  Madison's expedition sent their members to the summit in one large group on 18 May, but eight days earlier they contributed two Sherpas to the rope fixing effort on the 10th. The rope fixers were Phurba Kancha and Kami Rita, who later (on 22 May) summited Everest with Horst's Arabs.

  The large summit party was made up of 12 members and an equal number of 12 Sherpas. The members were Edwin Bailey, Borchardt, Derue, Gonzalez, Grieder, Grigsby, Jones, Lowry, Madison, Moharrak, Sheedy and Wessels. They together with their Sherpas, set out for the top at 11:00 pm on the 17th, and all of them reached the summit almost together, at 7:45-7:55 am on 18 May. All descended to C4.

  Here, at midnight, five members and two Sherpas left C4 at the South Col, traversed over to the West Face of Lhotse and summited Lhotse at 7:00 am on the 19th. This party, Edwin Bailey, Grieder, Grigsby, Jones, Madison, Ang Pasang and Karma Sarke, then went down to C2 in the Western Cwm, where they joined the rest of the team's descending Everest summiters.

  Oxygen was used while climbing Everest by members from C3 to top to C3 and by Sherpas from C4 to top to C4. Those members and Sherpas who went over to Lhotse's summit, stayed on oxygen to Lhotse's top and down to C3.

  Those who did not summit Everest on the 18th were:

  Ashkar got to C1 on 4 May, but went no higher because of general weakness and a sinus infection.

  John Bailey went to C2 on 15 May, but pulmonary edema sent him home that day.

  McFeeney was another pulmonary edema case; she reached C3, where she became seriously ill. She left the expedition on 16 May.

  Saikaly, a photographer, attached himself to Horst's Arab party and summited with them on 22 May.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Norbu Sherpa, 5/12/81, Thamiteng, Khumbu
    Ang Pasang Sherpa, 19/6/67, Thami, Khumbu
    Dawa Nuru/Da Nuru Sherpa, 25/11/72 [25/11/64], Thami, Khumbu
    Karma Sarke Sherpa, 25/1/87, Phortse, Khumbu
    Lhakpa Rita Sherpa, 9/9/66, originally Thami, now lives in Shoreline, WA, USA
    Lhakpa Sona Sherpa, 7/6/81, Kharikhola, Solu
    Mingma Dorje Sherpa, 28/5/69, Waku-4, Solu
    Mingma Tenzing Sherpa, 3/10/67, Pare, Namche-6, Khumbu
    Mingma Tshering Sherpa, 22/7/68, Thami, Khumbu
    Pasang Tendi Sherpa, 30/7/89, Yilajung, Khumbu
    Pasang Tsheri Sherpa, 30/7/89, Tesho, Khumbu
    Pemba Tenzing Sherpa, 23/8/76, Phurte, Namche-4, Khumbu


expid: EVER13169
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Inigo Castineyra
sponsor: San Sebastian Everest Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->Deboche
bcdate: 2013-04-09
smtdate: 2013-05-16
termdate: 2013-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to bad weather and Sherpa left him alone
campsites: BC(09/04,5300m),C1(19/04,5900m),C2(05/05,6500m),C3(15/05,7100m),C4(16/05,8000m),xxx(17/05,8400m)
agency: Nepal Social Treks (Snowy Horizon pmt)
routememo:
  Inigo was supposed to go to summit with Dawa Jamba, but he fell sick and Lhakpa [Tashi] joined Inigo. They left C4 at 8:30 pm on 16 May in cold and windy weather. When Inigo reached at 8400m at around 1:30 am on 17 May he did not find Lhakpa behind him and he was alone in the route. He walked for some time, but Lhakpa did not turn up. So Inigo decided to go down. Physically Inigo was fit, but he did not like to go alone as there were no other climbers to follow and on one coming up.

  On 18 May doctor at BC told him that he can attempt again after 3-4 days rest. But Sherpas did not agree to go on second attempt. Inigo was so frustrated with the irresponsible behaviour of Sherpas. 

  Sherpa:
    Dawa Jamba, (2035/6/13) 29/9/78, Yaphu-9, Everest X2
    Lhakpa Tashi


expid: EVER13170
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Guatemala
leaders: Barbara Padilla Del Aguila
sponsor: Barbara Everest Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->Deboche
bcdate: 2013-04-09
smtdate: 2013-05-16
termdate: 2013-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to broken oxygen mask and uncooperative Sherpa
campsites: BC(09/04,5300m),C1(19/04,5900m),C2(05/05,6500m),C3A(15/05,7100m),C3B(16/05,7400m),xxx(16/05,7400m)
agency: Nepal Social Treks (Snowy Horizon pmt)
routememo:
  Padilla del Aguila went to C3 on 15 May planning to summit on 17 May. She wanted to use oxygen at C3, but her Sherpa Lhakpa [Tashi] did not allow her to use it. Later from 2 am of 16 May he allowed her to use oxygen for two hours and around 6 am to go up. Padilla Del Aguila was not feeling well and became too slow. When they arrived at 7400m her regulator was broken. She changed the mask and Lhakpa put on the oxygen mask supply at 0.5. She asked Lhakpa to increase supply of oxygen as she was not felling well and also told him that she want to go down to C2 and do second attempt. Lhakpa took away oxygen from her and went up leaving her alone. She waited for Lhakpa and after three hours she managed to go down to C2 with the help of Scott Simper who gave her oxygen. At C2 doctor checked her and gave her oxygen. Lhakpa came to C2 after five hours. Padilla Del Aguila recovering from her exhaustion spent night at C2 on 17 May. She wanted to use oxygen during the night, but Lhakpa did not allow her to use it. On 18 May Lhakpa told Padilla Del Aguila at 7 am that if she wants to make second attempt she has to do alone and also that she has to reach C3 in 3 hours; if she cannot make it then there will not be a second attempt. She realized that she would not be able to do it by herself and the way the Sherpa behaving she decided to go down to BC.

  Everest South - Leader Barbara Padilla Del Aguila


  Namita's telephonic conversation with Lhakpa Tashi - 23 July 2013

  Lhakpa Tashi, Sherpa of Barbara Aguila said that Ms. Aguila was a very difficult woman. She could not walk at all and would feel tired very fast and throughout her climb she kept on complaining to him about the food and the camps. This irritated him a lot. After having breakfast in C3 on 15th May she continously used oxygen from C3 starting from flow of 1.5. Ms. Aguila would take 10 steps and would ask Lhakpa to increase the flow and she kept on doing this until he had increased to full pressure. The team had made two Camp 3s, C3A at 7050m-7100m and C3B at 7400m. These C3A and C3B camps had already been made by Sherpas before as there was too much of rush on the mountain. It took Lhakpa 45 minutes to 1 hour to reach from C3A to C3B while Ms. Aguila took 6 hours to reach C3B. Lhakpa said he waited for her for hours and when she finally reached C3B on 16th May, very exhausted, he found that her oxygen regulator was broken deliberately by her and he had to give her his own oxygen system. He had told her to stay at C3B as he had to go and collect equipment from C3A and that he would send two Sherpa friends to help her down. According to Lhakpa there are two routes that lead to C3B. His Sherpa friends were confused and went to the wrong route and could not find her. She was found by a foreigner after 3 hours and she managed to go down with his help. When Ms. Aguila reached BC she was very angry and complained to everyone about Sherpa abandoning her and all sorts of other things about the oxygen and camps which were a total lie. He admitted that he did make a mistake by depending on his Sherpa friends who could not find her. 

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Tashi Sherpa, 25/9/85, Yaphu-9, Everest X2


  Email from Scott Simper July 17, 2013 to Miss Elizabeth Hawley

  I meet a woman Barbara Padilla Del Aguila from Guatemala on my return to Camp 3 at about 7500m. She had been abandoned by her climbing team (Snowline Tours) when her oxygen mask stopped working. She had been there for approx 4 hours before I found her. She showed signs of HAS. I gave her my one oxygen bottle and mask and then brought her down the Lhotse face to C2. She received medical attention there from a doctor that was climbing with Asian Trekking when we reached C2. Mingmar proceeded to C2 after I found the young women at the top of the Lhotse face. I descended by myself bringing the women down.


expid: EVER13172
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: David Hamilton
sponsor: Jagged Globe Everest Expedition 2013
countries: Canada, Morocco, Norway
bcdate: 2013-04-13
smtdate: 2013-05-19
smttime: 0530
termdate: 2013-05-21
campsites: BC(13/04,5225m),C1(24/04,6000m),C2(28/04,6400m),C3(06/05,7200m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(19-20/05)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  All of the expedition's members summited, they did so in two parties. The first group, 9 members and 9 Sherpas, left C4 for the top between 7:30 and 8:30 pm of the 18th and were on the summit on 19th May between 5:30 and 8:30 am. They were Carriere, Eide, Eilertsen, Hamilton, Hughes, May, Moorhouse, Parkes and Wells, plus Sherpas Dawa Tashi, Jangbu, Kila Pemba, Pasang Tenzi, Pemba Chhiring, Pemba Chhongbi, Tshering Pemba, Thundu and Wangdi.

  The first to the top on the 19th were Wells with Jangbu and Pasang Tenzi. The last were Wells and Pema Chhongbi.

  They were followed a day later by Ibn Abdeljalil, Manning and Munnoch with Dawa Gyalje, Pasang Karma and Tashi Sherpa. These six summiters left C4 at 7:30 pm on the 19th and and were on the top between 4:30 and 5:00 pm on the 20th.

  All members used oxygen in and from C3 (except Hamilton, who started on it from C4) to the summit and down to C3 (except Hamilton, who turned it off when he reached 8000m). Their Sherpas used it from C4 to the top to C4.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Dawa Gyalje Sherpa, 14/3/80, Beding, Dolakha
    Dawa Tashi Sherpa, 17/5/91, Waku-4, Solu
    Jangbu Sherpa, 1/10/81, Sotang-6, Solu
    Kili Pemba Sherpa, 15/5/80, Beding, Dolakha
    Pasang Karma Sherpa, 16/7/75, Jubing-5, Solu
    Pasang Tenzi Sherpa, 1/10/84, Beding, Dolakha
    Pema Chhiring Sherpa, 17/12/83, Beding, Dolakha
    Pemba Chhongbi Sherpa, 29/6/85, Kharikhola, Solu
    Tashi Sherpa, 4/12/77, Bung-9, Solu
    Tshering Pemba Sherpa, 22/11/85, Beding, Dolakha
    Thundu Sherpa, 18/2/79, Beding, Dolakha
    Wangdi Sherpa, 1/3/89, Shyama-3, Dolakha

  19 May summit pairings (according to Jagged Globe web site):
    James Wells & Pasang Tenzi and Jangbu
    Matt Parkes & Dawa Tashi
    John Moorhouse & Pemba Chhongba
    Dan Hughes & Thundu
    Trond Eilertsen & Tshering Pemba
    Christian Eide & Wangdi
    Andrew May & Pema Chhiring
    Dean Carriere & Kili Pemba
    David alone


expid: EVER13174
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Ruben Payan
sponsor: PH8 Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2013-04-19
smtdate: 2013-05-20
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2013-05-24
campsites: BC(19/04,5200m),ABC(22/04,6500m),C1(28/04,7200m),C2(12/05,7600m),C3(20/05,8300m),Smt(20/05)
accidents: Payan's wind blindness
agency: World Records Expeditions
routememo:
  On 19 May, Payan went up to C3 at 4 pm to rest, and at 10 pm (CST) he and Lhakpa Gelu left for the summit in strong wind. They reached the top at 9 am on the 20th, stayed ther for only five minutes before descending to C3 at about 8:30 pm.

  Payan became wind-blinded at the Third Step (about 8700m) on his way down, so it took him nearly 12 hours to get back to C3. "Its a miracle I got there safely," safely he said. Later he was given some eye-drops by a Sherpa with the Swiss expedition led by Kari Kobler, and his vision was restored in a few hours.

  He and Lhakpa Gelu returned to ABC on the 21st.

  Oxygen:
    Payan used oxygen in and up from C3 to the summit down to C1
    Lhakpa Gelu used it from C3 to the top to C3

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa, 23/7/67, from Kharikhola, then Bupsa, Solu,
       but now Everett, WA, USA, Everest X14, Cho Oyu X1


expid: EVER13175
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Phil Crampton
sponsor: Altitude Junkies Everest Expedition 2013
countries: Australia, Denmark, Lithuania, Spain, USA
bcdate: 2013-04-14
smtdate: 2013-05-22
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2013-05-24
campsites: BC(14/04,5200m),ABC(22/04,6400m),C1(13/05,7050m),C2(20/05,7700m),C3(21/05,8300m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Expedition Himalaya
routememo:
  The expedition went to the top via the North Col in one group: Crampton, Dellis, Dominguez, Kay, Nichols, Nielsen, Roth, Watroba and 11 Sherpas were in the summit party. Ms. Watroba left the highest camp, C3, with two Sherpas on 21 May at 8:00 pm (NST), Ms. Nichols left with one Sherpa at 8:30 pm, and other would be summiters left at 9:00 pm. But not all of them summited:

  Dellis turned around at the bottom of the First Step (about 8385m) at 1:00 am on the 22nd because his hands were extremely cold.

  Dominguez was too tired to continue his climb after he reached 8385m at 2:00 am.

  Kay and Roth had left C3 at 12:30 am and turned back an hour later because they were too cold; they retreated all the way down to C1.

  All other members of the party succeeded. The first was Ms. Watroba, who summited at 6:30 am on 22 May with Ang Gelu and Pemba Gyabu; the last one up was Ms. Nichols with Tarke at 9 pm. All the successful members descended to C2 and their Sherpas went down to C1.

  Oxygen was used by all members and Sherpas from 7200m to their high points and down to C1.

  Non-summiting members:

  Goodwin didn't trust the weather forecasts they were receiving, got to C2 on the 20th, and spent the rest of the climbing period in BC.

  Searle reached 7800m on the 21st, ran out of steam and stayed in BC.

  Wright got to C1 on 13 May with the others occupying the camp for the first time, but was not feeling well and stayed in BC.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Ang Gelu, 23/7/70, Chaurikharka-4, Solu
    Chhongba Nurbu, 28/8/61, Chaurikharka-7, Solu
    Lhakpa Tenzi, 5/4/74, Lokhim-4, Solu
    Pasang Gelu, 5/11/65, Sotang-6, Solu
    Pasang Ongchhu, 25/4/87, Bung-9, Solu
    Pemba Gyabu, 19/12/87, Lelep-7, Taplejung
    Tarke Sherpa, 18/6/67, Lokhim-4, Solu


expid: EVER13176
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: David Hahn
sponsor: Rainier Mountaineering (RMI) Everest Expedition 2013
countries: Canada
bcdate: 2013-04-05
smtdate: 2013-05-23
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2013-05-26
campsites: BC(05/04,5350m),C1(18/04,6035m),C2(25/04,6500m),C3(07/05,7300m),C4(22/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  Hahn had been climbing Everest for years. He commented this time that "every year the snow conditions are getting worse. Its much drier at the top."

  This team of six was composed of just three clients. The others were the leader, the assistant leader, and the BC manager who did not go above BC. Unfortunately, the clients dropped out before the climb was over, leaving only the leader and his assistant in position for reaching the summit.

  The first member to drop out was Fitch. He climbed from BC on 19th April with assistant leader Waterfall, but when they got to 6250m, between C1 and C2, Fitch developed a chest pain, which was thought in Nepal to be a heart problem but was diagnosed in the USA as the result of serious indigestion. In any case, Waterfall was much too good a climber for Fitch to keep up with, and anyway Fitch was not in good shape and was frightened by the Icefall. He left from BC by helicopter on 23 April.

  Mark Wilkins went with Fitch. He, too had reached 6250m but he said he didn't feel safe climbing the Khumbu Icefall and didn't want to go through it again.

  Johnson had a bad cough that he couldn't get rid of. He had already been to 7250m on Lhotse's West Face, but now he was fading. He left C2 for the top on at 4 am on 21 May with Hahn and Waterfall intending to occupy C3 that night; instead they turned around at the base of the Lhotse face and retreated to C2. Johnson was back in BC on the 22nd, ending his climb.

  Finally, it was just the leader, the assistant leader and three Sherpas, Gyalze, Kazi and Tshering/Chhiring Dorje, who were left. On the day that Johnson returned to BC, the five men moved up from C2 to C4. While Gyalze stopped in C4, the remaining four went to the summit at 7:30 am on the 23rd and were back in C2 at 3:30 that afternoon. The five cleared C4 and C3 as they descended, and all were back in BC on the 24th.

  Sherpas had pitched C3 on 7 May, and stocked it with a supply of oxygen for summiters, but it was never occupied.

  Oxygen was used by Hahn, Waterfall and the three Sherpas from C3, where their supply of oxygen had been stored, to C4 and the summit and down to C2 by all except Gyalze, who stopped in C4, where he stayed that night.

  Gyalze stopped at C4 because of Hahn's policy of having one climber stay back at a high camp "to support the effort and perform radio relays between the climbing team and base camp," Hahn explained. "He was fully capable of going on."

  Sherpas:
    Gyalze/Gyalje, 26/9/77, Kagani-8, Okhaldhunga, Everest X1
    Kazi Sherpa, 29/5/71, Tapting-9, Solu, Everest X4
    Tshering/Chhering Dorje Sherpa (he spells his first name Chhering), 3/3/89, 
      Beding, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X2, Manaslu X2


expid: EVER13177
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Kari Kobler
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Everest Expedition 2013
countries: Germany, Ecuador, Italy
bcdate: 2013-04-16
smtdate: 2013-05-21
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2013-05-22
othersmts: Summited Lhakpa Ri
campsites: BC(16/04,5200m),ABC(21/04,6400m),C1(22/04,7000m),C2(19/05,7700m),C3(20/05,8300m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  To acclimatize before tackling Everest from its Tibetan side, the expedition first climbed Lhakpa Ri, a mountain about 6900m north of Everest. All members, plus four Sherpas, reached the summit together on 24 April.

  The successful Everest summit party, set out for the top from C3 at 10:30 pm on 20 May and were on the summit on 21 May together at 6:30 am. They descended all the way to ABC between 5:00 and 7:00 pm the same day. They were: Aulestia, Baertschi, Boebner-Meier, Garioni, Hundeshagen and Mondinelli with Sherpas Chhongba, Dendi, Kancha Lama, Lhakpa Gelu, Ngima Thenduk, Nuru Wangchu, Pemba and Tembe.

  Non-summiting members:

  Bernard, who already had a virus infection in his throat when he arrived in Nepal from Switzerland, managed twice to climb to C2 at 7700m, but his ailment endured and he left Nepal on 15 May.

  Kobler got to 7500m on 19 May on the team's summit push, but strong wind sent him down to ABC to check on the weather forecast, and he remained there.

  All summiting members used oxygen from C1 (7000m) to the top to C3 (8300m) or to 7800m, depending on where their supply ran out. (The highly experienced mountaineer, Silvio Mondinelli, used oxygen this trip only because he was shepherding a client, Aldo Garioni). Their Sherpas used it from 7700m (C2) to the top to 8300m or lower, wherever their supply ran out.

  Sherpa Summiters:
    Chhongba Sherpa, 13/4/66, Taksindu-6, Solu
    Dendi Sherpa, 22/1/83, Deku, Taksindu-5, Solu, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2
    Kancha Lama Sherpa, 19/11/82, Taksindu-2, Solu, Everest X1
    Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa, 23/8/89, Taksindu-5, Solu
    Ngima Thenduk Sherpa, 31/8/73, Mathilow, Makalu-9, Cho Oyu X1
    Nuru Wangchu Sherpa, 18/8/77, Pangboche, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X3, Manaslu X1
    Pemba Sherpa, 9/7/82, Ghunsa, Lelep-9, Taplejung, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1
    Tembe Sherpa, 15/4/87, Ghunsa, Lelep-9, Taplejung, Cho Oyu X1


expid: EVER13178
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yuchiro Miura
sponsor: Miura Everest Team 2013
bcdate: 2013-04-17
smtdate: 2013-05-23
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2013-05-26
othersmts: Acclimatized on Pumori (no intent to summit)
agency: Rolwaling Trek
campsites:
  BC(17/04,5350m),C1(16/05,6000m),C2(17/05,6400m),C3(19/05,7100m),IntCmp(20/05,7600m),C4(21/05,7900m),C5(22/05,8500m),Smt(23/05)

routememo:
  The team consisted of four members: (1) Yuichiro Miura, who was 80 years old and now wanted to set a new record of the oldest Everest summiter; (2) his son Gota, himself an experienced climber; (3) Hiroyuki Kuraoka, who had already summited Everest twice from the Nepalese and twice from Tibet, and was the teams' climbing tactician; and (4) Kazuya Hiraide, their photographer, who had summited once from Nepal. They took ten climbing Sherpas with them.

  The expedition arrived at BC on 17 April and then went to Pumori for an acclimatization climb and to avoid Yuichiro Miura's having to go through the Icefall more than once in order to save his energy. On Pumori, they made a camp at 5700m on 23 April and spent two nights there. They made a higher camp at 5850m on 8 May and stayed there for two nights.

  They moved from Pumori to Everest BC on 10 May and moved through the Icefall to the top and C1 on 16 May. Now they moved up relatively quickly in the following days: to C2 in the Western Cwm on the 17th, to C3 on Lhotse West Face on the 19th, to an intermediate camp at 7600m on the upper crystal rock before the Geneva Spur, to C4 at the South Col on the 21st, and C5, which is very seldom established, at the Balcony on the 22nd.

  On the night of the 22nd only two Sherpas slept in C5 because of the restricted space. They were the sirdar Pemba Gyalzen and Ngima Nurbu. Five other Sherpas remained in C4 for the final summit push.

  At 2:00 am on 23 May, the four members and two Sherpas left C5 for top together and were on the summit at 9:00 am together with the other five Sherpas. Yuichiro Miura by now was extremely tired and weak; in his descent, he was short-roped from 8700m to C4, where he arrived at 7:20 pm, ten hours after he stood on the summit.

  The next day, the 24th, still extremely weak, Yuichiro Miura took 13 hours to descend from C4 to C2. On the 26th he flew by helicopter from C2 to Kathmandu. The Icefall had collapsed on the 25th, and he would have been in it that day if he had not flown over it.

  Yuichiro Miura was on oxygen from the middle of the Icefall on the 16th to the top and down to and in C2 on 24-26 May. The other members used it from C2 to the top and back to C2. Their Sherpas used it from C4 to the summit to C4.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Bir Kaji Tamang, 10/12/78, Gorakhani-4, Solu, Everest X1
    Ngima Nurbu Sherpa, 6/11/81, Tesho, Khumbu, Everest X13, Cho Oyu X1, Lhotse X1
    Ongje Sherpa, 22/8/83, Gaurishankar-2, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X2
    Pema Chiri Sherpa, Rolwaling, 26 years old
    Pemba Gyalzen Sherpa, 22/7/69, Thamo, Khumbu, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X1, Manaslu X1
    Pemba Nuru Sherpa, 3/2/73, Pare, Khumbu, Everest X3, Lhotse X1, Manaslu X2
    Tshering Wangchu Sherpa, 16/3/83, Thamo, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X1, Manaslu X1


expid: EVER13179
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Everest Expedition 2013
countries: China, Germany, Japan, Latvia, Mexico, Switzerland, UK
bcdate: 2013-04-09
smtdate: 2013-05-10
smttime: 1214
termdate: 2013-05-25
othersmts: Summited Lobuche East, Lhotse (LHOT-131-21); attempted Nuptse (NUPT-131-03)
campsites: BC(09/04,5300m),C1(01/05,6100m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(04/05,7400m),C4(09/05,7900m),Smt(10,23/05)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  Brice was overall leader for three expeditions: to Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse. Woodward was leader of the Everest team.

  The Everest group left KTM for Lukla on 31 March. They went to BC on 9 April, but before attempting Everest, they went to nearby Lobuche East for an acclimatization climb. All of them went to its summit on 17 April and again on 19 April; they spent the 19th aand 20th on the summit.

  One member, David Tait, went to the top of Everest on 10 May at 12:14 pm with the rope fixers. The other 11 members of the expedition, except for the Binsack and Brice, with 11 Sherpas, left C4 at 11:00 pm on 22 May, reached the summit between 4:38 and 5:40 am on the 23rd, and descended all the way to BC the next day, the 24th. (The members who summited on the 23rd were: Fang, Hasler, Hellmuth, Perez, Rafferty, Spruzs, Tamura, Jing Wang, Wei Wang, Woodward and Wu.)

  Non-summiting members on 23 May:

  Binsack reached 7400m on 4 May in the acclimatization climb, then became sick (not seriously) and stayed in BC thereafter.

  Brice was in BC throughout the climb, as is his custom.

  Tait had already summited on the 10th.

  Oxygen was used by the members of the summit party from C3 to the top and down as far as C2. The Sherpas used it from C4 to the summit and down to C2.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Fura Chheten, 29/8/90, Phortse
    Lhakpa Nuru, 18/6/80, Phortse [May 10]
    Ngawang Tenjing, 20/11/93, Phortse
    Ngima Sona, 18/9/70, Phortse
    Nima Tenjing, 26/4/91, Phortse
    Pasang Ngima, 1/10/92, Phortse
    Phurba Tashi, 24/5/71, Khumjung
    Rita Dorje, 24/10/77, Phortse
    Son Dorje, 22/5/63, Phortse
    Sonam Tashi, 4/9/90, Phortse
    Tashi Tshering, 27/4/87, Khumjung
    Urken Lundup, 10/2/92, Phortse


expid: EVER13180
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: SummitClimb Everest Expedition 2013
countries: Ireland, Poland, UK
bcdate: 2013-04-17
smtdate: 2013-05-19
smttime: 0500
termdate: 2013-05-26
campsites: BC(17/04,5300m),C1(23/04,6000m),C2(28/04,6400m),C3(02/05,7000m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(19-20,23)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  The expedition reached the summit via the South Col in three small groups on 19, 20 and 23 May. The first one managed to get to the top and back to C4 in reasonable times despite the traffic jams they encountered from the South Col, where they had their last camp, to the Balcony (8500m) and on the Hillary Step. Longacre, Pearson and Roskelley, plus Sherpas Sange and Thile Nurbu, left C4 for top at 8:00 pm on the 18th. Longacre was the first member to the top at 5:00 am of 19 May; the other two, Pearson and Roskelley, summited at 6:00 am. They went back to C4 for the night.

  Next up was Dixon without a Sherpa, who left C4 at 5:00 pm on the 19th, got to the summit at 7:00 am on the 20th and returned to C4 later that day.

  The final summiters were Lally, Smith and Witkowska with Jangbu and Mingmar. They left C4 at 8:00 pm on the 22nd and summited at 5:30 pm on 23 May. They went down in C4 to stay the night.

  The only member who did not go to the top was the leader, Mazur, who went no higher than C4 at the South Col. He had been to the summit a number of times and saw no point in going again now.

  All members used oxygen up from C3 to the top and down to C2. Their Sherpas used it up from C2 during their load-carrying period, and from C4 to the summit to C4 on their summit bids.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Jangbu Sherpa, 24/5/67, Patle, Okhaldhunga, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X4, Lhotse X1
    Mingmar Sherpa, 13/4/69 (1/1/2026), Patle, Okhaldhunga
    Sange Sherpa, 21/5/71, Dinding, Makalu-Barun, Lhotse X2
    Thile Nurbu Sherpa, 262/5/74, Choplung, Chaurikharka-3, Solu, Everest X5,
      Cho Oyu X1, Lhotse X1


expid: EVER13181
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Greg Vernovage
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Everest Expedition 2013
countries: Australia, Austria, China, Germany, Japan, Norway, UK
bcdate: 2013-04-10
smtdate: 2013-05-18
smttime: 0555
termdate: 2013-05-15
campsites: BC(10/04,5325m),C1(19/04,6900m),C2(21/04,6700m),C3(29/04,7300m),C4(17/05,7900m),Smt(18,20-21/05)
agency: Beyul Adventure
routememo:
  This huge expedition of 42 foreigners and 65 climbing Sherpas lent two of its Sherpas (Pasang Kami and Tsheten Dorje) to the joint rope-fixing effort, and then sent 20 members and 22 Sherpa helpers to the summit in three waves, on the 18th, 20th and 21st of May.

  The first summit party was a small one who left for the top from C4 at 9:30 pm on 17 May. They were Hamill, Hasenstab, Heggland and Neil with seven Sherpas, Chhedar, Chewang Lendu, Pasang, Pemba, Sonam Dorje, Tashi Tshering and Thunang Lhomi (not a Sherpa). All summited between 5:55 and 7:30 am on the 18th. They were back in C4 between 3:30 and 5:00 that afternoon.

  Two of these summiters, Niel and Chewang Lendu, went from C4 at the South Col that afternoon over to C4 for Lhotse, which had been established by expedition Sherpas while climbers were going to Everest's summit. The two then summited Lhotse the next day, 19 May.

  The second Everest summit party started out from C4 at 7:30 and 9:00 pm on the 19th as 13 members and on equal number of Sherpas. But two foreigners Gibson and Merrin, dropped back and their Sherpas retreated with them. The successful members on 20th May were Ackles, Bunce, Hardt, Klitzke, Konow, Mainer, Marshall, Martin, Mauro, Rodgers and Snyder, and the Sherpas who went to the top with them were Danuru, Sona, Nima Thundu, Pasang Sona and Phinjo Dorje. They summited between 4:50 and 7:30 am on the 20th and went down to C2 between 2:00 and 6:30 pm that day except for Hardt who was too exhausted to descend below C4.

  The third and final party began as a large group of nine members who set out for the summit between 7:30 and 9:00 pm on the 20th. However four of them did not get all the way to the top, so in the end only five summited on 21 May: Anderson, Beede, Ingram, Merle and Meyer, plus an equal number of Sherpas, Ang Gyalzen, Nuru Gyalzen, Pemba Nuru, Phinjo and Tenjing Gyalzen.

  Oxygen was used by all members attempting the summit in and from C3 to their high points to C2. Their Sherpas used it in and from C4 to their high points to, but not in C4.

  Non-summiting members:

  Chris Bergum got to the bottom of the Hillary Step on 21 May, but his hands had become extremely cold, so he went down to C4 instead of continuing to the summit.

  Nicholas Gibson went to 8300m with the summit party of 19/20 May, but was very tired, turned around and descended to C2.

  Colin Merrin became too tired and suffered from a head cold, so when he reached 8200m on 19/20 May, he retreated to C2.

  Ryoko Miyazaki got to 200m below the South Summit on 21 May when he realized he was too tired to get to the summit and return safely, so he also descended to C2.

  Ms. Ning Ting reached 300m above the Balcony on 21 May, was too tired to continue, and went back to C2.

  Robert Smothers was another who became too exhausted to go to the summit; he got to 200 below the South Summit on 21 May, then retreated to C2.

  Death:
    Da Rita Sherpa, 25/11/76, Phortse, died of a heart problem in C3 on 5 May.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Ang Gyalzen Sherpa, 18/3/83, Garma-3, Solu
    Cheddar Sherpa, 19/12/63, Sisuwa-9, Sankhuwasabha
    Chhewang Lendu Sherpa, 19/4/80, Phortse
    Danuru Sherpa, 19/5/58, Phortse
    Dawa Tenzing Sherpa, 14/5/80, Khumjung
    Karma Rita Sherpa, 21/1/76, Phortse
    Lhakpa Bhote, 5/11/70, Hatiya-3, Sankhuwasabha
    Mingma Chhiring Sherpa, 26/4/72, Phortse
    Mingma Sona Sherpa, 24/2/91, Phortse
    Ngima Karma Sherpa, 29/6/83, Phortse
    Nima Thundu Sherpa, 20/4/80, Dingboche
    Nuru Gyalzen Sherpa, 18/8/73, Phortse
    Pasang Sherpa, 6/10/74, Sisuwa-9, Sankhuwasabha
    Pasang Kami Sherpa, 2/9/89, Phortse
    Pasang Sona Sherpa, 18/9/96, Phortse
    Pemba Sherpa, 21/8/91, Phortse
    Pemba Nuru Sherpa, 7/10/81, Khumjung
    Phinjo Sherpa, 23/4/71, Phortse
    Phinjo Dorje Sherpa, 3/9/86, Pangboche
    Sonam Dorje Sherpa, 14/4/88, Phortse
    Tashi Tsheri Sherpa, 23/12/90, Pangboche
    Tenjing Gyalzen Sherpa, 30/10/96, Phortse
    Thunang Lhomi, 1/8/86, Hatiya-3, Sankhuwasabha
    Tsheten Dorje Sherpa, 28/4/79, Pangboche

  Sherpa-Client pairings:

    Cheddar Sherpa with Knut Heggland (May 18)
    Chhewang Lendu Sherpa with Paul Niel (May 18 Everest, May 19 Lhotse)

    Karma Rita Sherpa with Roger Snyder (May 20)
    Mingma Chhiring Sherpa with Dave Mauro (May 20)
    Phinjo Dorje Sherpa with David Rogers (May 20)
    Danaru Sherpa with Rob Marshall (May 20)
    Ngima Karma Sherpa with Christian Konow (May 20)
    Mingma Sona Sherpa with Andrew Ackles (May 20)
    Dawa Tenzing Sherpa with Kyle Martin (May 20)
    Lakpa Bhote with Ty Hardt (May 20)
    Nima Thundu Sherpa with Marshall Klitzke (May 20)

    Pemba Nuru Sherpa with Dan Meyer (May 21)
    Nuru Gyalzen Sherpa with John Beede (May 21)
    Phinjo Sherpa with Doug Ingram (May 21)

accidents:
  Bergum slight frostbite; Sherpa fatal illness (Da Rita Sherpa died of a heart problem in C3 on 5 May)


expid: EVER13182
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Arjun Karki
sponsor: Arjun Karki Everest Expedition 2013
approach: See route notes
bcdate: 2013-04-05
smtdate: 2013-05-19
smttime: 0430
termdate: 2013-05-21
campsites: BC(05/04,5500m),C2(28/04,6400m),C3(16/05,7100m),C4(17/05,8000m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Approach: Dhulikhel, Handichaur, Mude, Tamakoshi, Jiri, Bamti Bhandar, Lamjura, Sailung, Nunthala, Boksa, Lukla, Phakding, Namche, Tengboche.

  Karki and his Sherpa left C1 at 7:30 pm on 18 May for summit. The team reached summit at 4:30 am on 19 May, stayed on summit for about 60 minutes, then descended C4 where they arrived around 12 noon. They rested at C4 for two hours and went down to C2 where they arrived at around 8 pm. Next day 19 May went to BC. 

  Karki team first attempt started at 8 pm on 17 May from C4. At about 300m above C4 Karki felt that his toes were getting numb and returned to C4.

  Sherpa:
    Ningma Sherpa, Makalu

achievment:
  1st cinema actor to summit; claimed he did Shirshasan (yoga on the top); climbed as guide to avoid paying royalty


expid: EVER13184
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: SW Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Simone Moro
sponsor: Italian-Swiss Everest 2013
countries: Switzerland, UK
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2013-04-12
smtdate: 2013-04-19
termdate: 2013-04-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m as they were attacked by Sherpas
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),C2(18/04,6400m),xxx(19/04,7500m)
accidents: Attacked by Sherpas
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  In acclimatization climb for Everest attempted on 28 April Moro, Steck climbed up to C3 on Lhotse face in front of rope fixing Sherpas. When they reached 7300m, the Sherpas were upset with them as they were in front of them. The team finished fixing the rope from 7000m to 7700m and descended to C2. There they tried to settle situation with Sherpas, but the Sherpas were so angry they attacked the three. Other climbers intervened to diffuse the situation. At 5 pm they left C2 as they were told by Sherpas and descended to BC.

  Steck reached the top of West Shoulder on 19 April. Steck took 4 hours to get to top of West Shoulder at about 7500m. Moro stayed at C2 and Griffith was at BC.

  High point for Moro and Griffith was 7300m on 28 April.


expid: EVER13148
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Leila Albogachieva
sponsor: Russian Olympic Flag Expedition
approach: Lukla->Monjo->Namche->Tengboche->Dingboche
bcdate: 2013-04-11
smtdate: 2013-05-18
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2013-05-22
campsites: BC(11/04,5300m),C1(16/04,6000m),C2(21/04,6400m),C3(07/05,7100m),C4(17/05,8000m),Smt(18/05)
agency: 7 Summits Adventure
routememo:
  Albogachieva and her two Sherpas started their summit push from C4 around midnight of 17 May. These reached summit at 8 am on 18 May. They spent 35 minutes on the summit then returned C4 at around 4 pm. Next day on 19 May they went down to C2; Albogachieva had a liver problem and was going very slow and feeling dizzy. On 20 May they arrived BC. Albogachieva had to wait two days at Lukla as there were no flights.


expid: EVER13183
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Arnold Coster
sponsor: SummitClimb Everest Expedition 2013
countries: Australia, China, Denmark, Iceland, Mauritius, Sweden, Switzerland, UK, USA
bcdate: 2013-04-15
smtdate: 2013-05-22
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2013-05-24
campsites: BC(15/04,5200m),ABC(22/04,6400m),C1(04/05,7000m),C2(15/05,7800m),C3(21/05,8300m),Smt(22-23/05)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  Two members and two Sherpas went to the summit on 22 May, and eight members and nine Sherpas followed on the 23rd. [9 + 11 according to website]

  The first party left C3 at 10 pm (NST) on the 21st, were on the top at 8:00 am on the 22nd, and descended to C2 at 3:00 pm. This group consisted of Jaeggi, Roeske and Gladh with Sherpas Lhakpa Gelbu, Lhakpa Nuru and Palden Nima. Gladh turned around at 11 pm and descended with Palden Nima.

  The second party left C3 at 10:00 pm on the 22nd and summited at 9:00 am on 23 May. Two members, Michael Tracy and Leifur Svavarsson, went down to C2 and the rest stopped in C3. The members in this group were Bailey, Cederkrantz, Hojland, Neefjes, O'Brien, Svavarsson, David Tracy and Michael Tracy. Their Sherpas were Ang Dorje, Ang Pasang, Dawa Jangbu, Gelze, Gyalzen, Nawang Nuri, Pemba Tamang, Phurba Tamang and Phurba Wangchu.

  Non-summiting members:

  Abbas was very slow. He reached 7600m on 19 May on the high flow of oxygen of 3 liters per minute up from the North Col camp at 7000m and even then he descended to ABC very slowly.

  Christensen climbed to 7900m (below C3) without oxygen, had no energy left and slowly descended to C1.

  Coster went to the North Col camp and remained there. He was too busy directing the team to continue climbing.

  Doherty went only to ABC with the expedition on 22 April and left on 23 April.

  Gladh became too tired to keep climbing on 19 May and retreated to BC.

  Xiao left for the summit on 21 May with the others in the first summit group, but at 8800m he turned back with Chhewang Karma, too frightened to continue up.

  Oxygen was used by members from C1 to the top to C1. Sherpas used it from C2 to the top to C2.

  Sherpa summiters:
    And Dorje Sherpa, 8/9/85 (23/5/2042), Patle, Okhaldhunga
    Ang Pasang Sherpa, 15/7/84 (2/3/2036), Patle
    Chhewang Karma Sherpa, 28/1/89 (15/10/2045), Patle
    Dawa Jangbu, 4/6/79 (21/3/2036), Patle, Cho Oyu X3, Everest X1, Lhotse X1
    Gelze Sherpa, 13/9/90 (28/5/28), Patle
    Gyalzen Sherpa, 23/2/74 (12/11/2030), Patle [25/1/74 (12/10/2030)]
    Lhakpa Gelbu, 13/4/77, Thumduk, Beni, Solu, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X2, Lhotse X1
    Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa, 21/8/81 (5/5/2038), Phakding, Solu
    Nawang Nuri Sherpa, 15/5/79 (1/2/2036), Patle
    Palden Nima Sherpa, 29/8/78 (13/5/2035), Yaphu, Sankhuwasabha
    Pemba Tamang, 31/5/73 (18/2/2030), Taksindu, Solu, Cho Oyu X1
    Phurba Tamang, 12/3/82 (29/11/2038), Kerung, Solu
    Phurba Wangchhu Sherpa, 5/12/75 (19/8/2032), Waku, Solu


expid: EVER13185
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Alex Abramov
sponsor: Seven Summits Club Everest Expedition 2013
countries: Azerbaijan, Kazakhstan, Poland, UK, Ukraine
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->Tingri
bcdate: 2013-04-19
smtdate: 2013-05-19
smttime: 0415
termdate: 2013-05-23
agency: 7 Summits Adventure
campsites:
  BC(19/04,5200m),IC(22/04,6200m),ABC(29/04,6400m),C1(04/05,7000m),C2(17/05,7700m),C3(18/05,8300m),Smt(19-20/05)

routememo:
  The expedition led by Abramov divided into groups. First group led by Abramov included four members: Ashurly, Morozov, Sabyrbayev, Simonovich and six climbing Sherpas: Jangbu, Mingma Temba, Ngima Ongdi, Nima Dorje, Nurbu and Pasang Gyaljen. Abramov team left C3 at 1 am (CST) on 19 May and reached summit at 6:30 am. They stayed on summit for 30 minutes and descended C3 around mid-day, then continued to ABC; by 7 pm all arrived at ABC.

  The second team guided by Hanna included 5 members: Dudko, Krasnov, Provolov, Rychenko, Kostrikin and five Sherpas: Mingma Dorchi, Pemba Nurbu, Pemba Rinjin, Phurbu Kusang and Ram Nurbu. The team left C3 at 2 am (CST) on 20 May. Kostrikin turned around from 8500m due to tiredness. Rest of the team reached summit between 7:30-8 am. They spent 30 minutes on the top. By 8 pm the team descended to ABC.

  Berdychowski left expedition on 9 May; he had severe headache.
  Dr. Larin high point was North Col; he suffered from sore throat. 
  Shevchenko and Shvetcov went up to 8000m.

  Sherpas:
    Jangbu, 26/8/1985, Makalu-5
    Ming Temba, 2/6/92, Makalu
    Ngima Ongdi, 19/2/79, Makalu-5
    Nima Dorje, 2/10/87, Makalu
    Nurbu (small) 16/2/91, Makalu
    Pasang Gyaljen, 30/7/81, Makalu-9
    Mingma Dorchi, 30/8/80, Makalu-5
    Pemba Nurbu, 28/3/1980, Makalu-5
    Pemba Rinjin, 1965, Makalu-5
    Phurbu Kusang, 6/12/73, Makalu-9
    Ram Nurbu, 25/11/1980, Makalu
    Nurbu, 21/1/80, Makalu-4, did not go to the summit due to stomach problem
    Mingma Gelu, 3/2/79, Makalu-5, ABC only (Director of Seven Summit Adv)


  From 7 Summits Club web site:

  Sergey Ponomarev, member of the expedition of 7 Summits Club, died near camp ABC 			
  Yesterday, May 5, a member of the 7 Summits Club Everest expedition Sergey Ponomarev died, presumably of a heart attack. He died almost instantly on a trail near the Camp ABC.

  May 4th, the team of 7 Summits Club (23 climbers - guides and 11 Sherpas) went to climb the North Col of Everest 7000m. This was the final stage of acclimatization. Shortly after leaving the camp (6400m) Sergey Ponomarev was going very slowly. He was asked to return to the camp 6400m. There he should to spend the night and wait for the descent of the whole team from the North Col. Sergey agreed, and went down to the Camp 6400m. Rest of the team spent a night in the North Col.

  The next morning, May 5, a part of the team made a successful ascent on the summit of Changtse 7600m. At noon the whole team started to descend to the Advanced Base Camp.

  Sergey, accompanied by a Sherpa, decided to go up the path towards the team. At 100 meters from the Camp ABC, at an altitude of about 6500m, Sergey felt bad. He stopped breathing, heart rate is not detectable, the pupils did not react to light. All attempts at resuscitation using oxygen, closed-chest cardiac massage and artificial respiration, which lasted about 30 minutes, did not lead to success.

  Early this morning, May 6, the body with porters was sent to the Base Camp of Mount Everest, for onward transportation to Kathmandu.


expid: EVER13186
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Ranveer Singh Jamwal, Sunil Singh Rathore
sponsor: Joint-Indo Nepal Army Everest Expedition 2013
countries: Nepal
bcdate: 2013-04-23
smtdate: 2013-05-19
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2013-05-26
campsites: BC(23/04,5350m),C1(29/04,6100m),C2(04/05,6400m),C3(06/05,7100m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(19-20/05)
agency: Rimo Expeditions
routememo:
  The large expedition consisted of 12 Indian members, 13 Nepalese members and 23 summiting Sherpas who went to the top on two successive days, the 19th and 20th of May. They went for the summit in two groups of Indians and Nepalis together, plus large numbers of Sherpas.

  The first to head for the summit, who left C4 starting at 8:15 pm on the 18th. They were Indians: Gurung, Jamwal, Kumar, Chatter Singh, Sudhir Singh and Sukhvir plus Nepalis: Adhikari, Basnet, Laudari, Shahi and Thapaliya. (The Sherpa summiters are listed below). Two members turned around before the top: Laudari reached 8300m at midnight, when his oxygen regulator malfunctioned and Kumar got to 8600m at 2:00 am of the 19th, then had to descend because his oxygen supply was running out (it had been damaged when he fell down, but not hurt). The remaining members and their Sherpas summited from 9:00 am onwards.

  The second summit party left C4 at 7:30 pm on the 19th and most of them were on the top at 4:00 am of 20 May. This group was composed of Indians: Jalal, Joshi, Lal, Shivraj Singh, Thinlas and Veetil, plus Nepalis: Bhujel, Karki, Paudel, Sadaula and Thapa. Almost all reached the summit on 20 May at 4:00 am; Paudel and Veetil were there four hours later.  

  Oxygen was used by summiting members from C3 to their high points to C3. Their Sherpas used it from C4 to their high points to C4.

  Sherpa summiters:

  On 19 May
    Ang Dorchi Sherpa, 17/11/86, Makalu-9, Sankhuwasabha
    Dawa Sangbhu Bhote, 6/8/77, Hatiya-3, Sankhuwasabha
    Dawa Wongchhu Sherpa, 17/12/72, Makalu-9, Sankhuwasabha
    Lakcha Sange Sherpa, 21/6/66, Makalu-5, Sankhuwasabha
    Lhakpa Wangel Sherpa, 19/8/66, Makalu-5, Sankhuwasabha
    Mingma Nurbu Sherpa, Makalu-6, Sankhuwasabha
    Pasang Sherpa, 18/5/76, Tamakhani-7, Solu
    Pasang Kami Sherpa, 3/1/73, Sikli, Jubing-9, Solu
    Pasang Tenjing Sherpa, 25/11/81, Makalu-9, Sankhuwasabha
    Pekma Lama Bhote, 14/12/76, Hatiya-3, Sankhuwasabha
    Pema Tshiring Sherpa, 16/6/70, Makalu-9, Sankhuwasabha
    Phurba Ongel Sherpa, 30/7/81, Makalu-9, Sankhuwasabha
    Wangchhu Sherpa, 20/11/67, Phurte, Khumbu

  On 20 May
    Bir Bahadur Gurung, 20/9/67, Dharampani-8, Tanahun
    Chhembi Sherpa, 21/4/63, Makalu-9, Sankhuwasabha
    Da Gelze Sherpa, 20/1/69, Gudel-4, Solu
    Dharchung Tsiring Sherpa, 24/11/77, Lelep-9, Taplejung
    Lhakpa Dendu Sherpa, 18/4/87, Makalu-9, Sankhuwasabha
    Mingtemba Sherpa, 7/9/83, Makalu-9, Sankhuwasabha
    Ngima Noru Sherpa, 4/3/81, Rakhawangdel-6, Khotang
    Pasang Norbu Sherpa, 1962-3 (2019), Thamo, Khumbu
    Phu Dorchi Sherpa, 28/2/83, Makalu-4, Sankhuwasabha
    Samgel Sherpa, 28/3/72, Makalu-9, Sankhuwasabha


expid: EVER13173
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Werner Goering
sponsor: Amical Alpin Everest Expedition 2013
bcdate: 2013-04-19
smtdate: 2013-05-20
termdate: 2013-05-24
campsites: BC(19/04,5200m),ABC(24/04,6400m),C1(14/05,7000m),C2(18/05,7600m),C3(19/05,8250m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  The team started out as a four-member expedition, but two dropped out early and left only two, Goering and Kurz to summit with three Sherpas, Ang Dawa, Lhakpa Gelu [climbing with Ruben Payan] and Pasang Tendi on 20 May.

  Non-summiting members:

  Kozlowski suffered from an infection at high altitude, went no higher than about 5800m and left the team.

  Retz turned back a little above C2 (about 7600m).

  Sherpa summiters:
    Ang Dawa, 18/11/84, Kharikhola, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X1
    Lhakpa Gelu, 23/6/67, Kharikhola, Everest X14, Cho Oyu X1 [counted with Payan]
    Pasang Tendi, 25/2/88, Kharikhola, Annapurna X1


expid: EVER13171
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Tim Rippel
sponsor: Peak Freaks Everest Expedition 2013
countries: Australia, Belgium, Ecuador, India, New Zealand, S Africa, USA
bcdate: 2013-04-08
smtdate: 2013-05-19
smttime: 0539
termdate: 2013-05-22
othersmts: Attempted Lhotse (LHOT-131-27)
campsites: BC(08/04,5350m),C1(16/04,6050m),C2(22/04,6450m),C3(16/05,7100m),C4(17/05,7900m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Senge Treks & Expeditions
routememo:
  Six members and seven Sherpas went to the summit on a single day, 19 May. Den Hond, Farebrother, Lala, McKibbin, Mooney and Schmidt set out for the top from C4 with seven Sherpas at 7:00 pm on 18 May. (Two more Sherpas, Da Tshering and Nima Nuru, accompanied them as far as the Balcony at 8500m, dropped a suppy of oxygen bottles, and went back to C4.)

  Mooney, Fur Temba and Palden Namgye were the first to gain the summit at 5:39 am on the 19th. The rest were there at 9:50 am. Mooney and Palden Namgye descended to C4 at 10:00 am and continued down to C2 at 3:00 pm. Schmidt was in C4 at 2:00 pm and the other summiters got there at 5:00 pm. Everyone was in C2 on the 20th and in BC the next day.

  Oxygen was used by all members and Sherpas. All members who went above C4 used it from C3 to their high points to C3 except Farebrother and Schmidt. Schmidt started on it at 8200m; Farebrother, trying to do his entire climb without oxygen, left C3 for C4 on his way to the top much later than normal, so when he arrived at the South Col (C4), he had only about an hour to rest before continuing on to the summit; when he reached the Balcony (8500m), he realized he was climbing too slowly and started on oxygen there for the rest of his ascent to the summit.

  Some Sherpas used oxygen in C4, others from C4 to their high points to C4.

  Farebrother made a bid to summit Lhotse. After spending a night at the South Col (C4), Farebrother, Tashi Thundu and Fur Temba went on the 20th from the Col to set up a camp at 7800m for their Lhotse C4 push to the Lhotse's summit. Farebrother and Tashi Thundu set out from Lhotse C4 at about 1:00 am on May 21, climbed for about one hour, but then turned around because of serious rock fall. They descended to C2 for the night and next day, the 22nd, were in BC.

  Non-summiting members:

  Deblauwe developed blurred vision in C2 and left the team on 24 April.

  Desai got only 200m above BC on 12 April, decided that climbing Everest was not for him, and left on the 13th.

  Lombardo also never reached C1: he was halfway into the Icefall and then had a recurrence of an old back pain. He left BC in a helicopter with his personal guide, Jarrin.

  Sherpas:
    Chhiring Namgyal/Namgel, 22/8/91, Phortse [Khumjung-8], Everest X1
    Chhong Karma, 25/6/80, Tingla-2, Solu, Everest X1
    Da Tshering, 20/6/67 (6/3/2024), Khumjung, no 8000ers
    Fur Temba, 24/10/75 (7/10/2031), Phortse
    Mingmar, 22/7/70 (7/4/2047), Jantarkhani-9, Okhaldhunga, Everest X5
    Nima Nuru, 16/6/78 (2/3/2035), Khumjung, no 8000ers
    Palden Namge/Namgye/Namgyal, 20/9/72, Phortse, Everest X7, Lhotse X4, 
      Manaslu X1, Annapurna X1
    Sange Phuru, 22/9/96, Bakachol-9, Khotang, Everest X1 [22/8/86]
    Tashi Thundu, 10/4/85, Khumjung, Everest X9


expid: EVER13167
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Melissa Arnot
sponsor: Melissa Arnot Everest Expedition 2013
bcdate: 2013-04-08
smtdate: 2013-05-22
smttime: 0655
termdate: 2013-05-23
campsites: BC(08/04,5350m),C1(15/04,5900m),C2(16/04,6350m),C4(17/05,7900m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  In an acclimatization climb, Arnot returned to BC on 17 April went to C2 on the 21st, down to BC and again to C2 on the 26th. On 3 May she touched C3 and went up to the Yellow Band at 7500m and once again down to BC.

  Her first summit bid started from BC on 13 May, went to C2 on the 14th and to C4 on the 15th. On the 16th, she and Tshering Dorje left C4 for the top, but they encountered high wind at 8400m and retreated to BC.

  Their second summit attempt was successful. On the 20th they left BC and went to C2 and on the 21st to C4. They left C4 at 1:00 am on 22 May and were on the top at 6:55 am in "very nice weather, it was calm and warm." They were back in C2 at 3:00 pm that day and BC the next day, the 23rd.

  Arnot used oxygen on her first summit bid from C4 to 8400m and back to C4, and on her second attempt, from C4 to the top to C4. Tshering Dorje also used it from C4 to the summit to C4.

  Sherpa:
    Tshering Dorje, 20/7/70, Kharikhola, Everest X14, Cho Oyu X4


expid: GAND13101
peakid: GAND
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge-W Ridge
nation: Romania
leaders: Cosmin Andron
sponsor: Alpine Style Expedition of Romanian Alpine Club to Gandharva Chuli
ascent1: 1st
bcdate: 2013-05-02
smtdate: 2013-05-06
termdate: 2013-05-08
campsites: BC(02/05,3857m),ABC(03/05,4448m),C1(05/05,5586),Smt(06/05)
achievment: 1st ascent
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  26 April: the team arrived in BC.
  27 April: the team reached a high camp.
  28 April: the rope of Cosmin and Christina went close to the top (50 meters) of Tharpu Chuli (5695m) in bad weather conditions.

  29 & 30 April: the duo spent 2 nights in BC, whilst the trekkers left.

  1 May: Machhapuchhare BC.

  2 May: the team did a first reconnaissance on Khado Khola with no success. Then the duo with 6 Nepalis went to put a 2nd BC at the confluence of west glacier river and Modi Khola (NNE)

  Their main aim being to reach with porters the kind of plateau lying around 4000m allowing to get a clear view of the whole mountain and have a comfortable background with[out?] porters and anything. This was a first steop, as still 2400m were separating them from top.

  Most of their information dealing with the appraoch have to be found in Noyce's Fishtail book of 1957. Why they believed at first the Khado Khola to be the most obvious approach.

  3 May: the team reached through a delicate steep grass ground their ABC (directly west of point 4705m of the map 1/50000) at 4448m (GPS). They put 30m of fixed rope to secure porters progress.

  From there with a clear view of the ascent part itself, the team chose to avoid the SW Face, which was their first aim. According to them, this face looking like 60-degrees steep on Google Earth was in reality 45-degree slopes with seracs, prone to the avalanches thus not safe! Thus the team chose to climb the SW Ridge of the main West Ridge.

  This day they climbed the central part of the trident shaped lower part of the SW Ridge, putting a first bivy at 5438m.

  This day had a storm just below 1st bivouac!

  In the book of 1957, it was reported that the weather did every day the same schedule: clear morning; at 12 am, clouds; 2 pm, light rain coming, stopping at 6 pm; clear weather back after that.

  4 May: after a late wake up, the duo chose to put higher his C1 at the safer area of camp ridge, that the team reached after a couple of hours of climb, like 4 or 5 pitches. Altitude C1: 5586m.

  5 May: considering the snow avalanche danger, the team had a rest.

  6 May: even snowy much, in a clear sky with a moderate cold, the team started his summit push at 1 hour 45 minutes. The ridge allowing to join the main West Ridge looked like Cassin Ridge on Denali. The team had a rest in a notch before final ridge part (with XYZ seracs, RLR of the W ridge). They had moderate wind all day.

  Because of sacred summit aspect of neighbour Machhapuchhare, the team deliberately had chosen stop before the summit, what they effectively did, stopping one meter below the top (physical evidence on the pictures). Here they left one snow bar with flags as a material evidence.

  On Google Earth, summit is given the altitude 6300m.

  In fact already during the trekking, some Nepalis didn't agree with the fact of climbing this peak, as linked on the same ridge than Macchapuchhare! Morever, as they presented their pictures to the ministry yesterday (13 May), the officers didn't believe them! A kind of typical Nepali paradoxical attitude, aiming to open the arms then closing it for any possible mixed reason (jealousy, sacredness of the mountains, etc.).

  The team then descended by the same route, only contouring the black triangle junction of West and SW Ridges by the north (whereas they previously came up the same day by the south side of it), coming back at their C1 for the night.

  7 May: the duo abseiled lightly further on the left (north) than their way up (central pillar of the trident), in fact between central and left pillars, then slept at the ABC.

  8 May: the team went back to its 2nd BC then to BC, then further down in the valley on the main Annapurna Sanctuary trail.

  Conclusion:

  The team choose to climb a virgin mountain, in a very charged historical and sacred area.

  The team inspired itself with the spirit of the first ascenders of Machhapuchhare, mostly for the reconnaissance part.

  As a respect due to the Nepalis, the team stopped 1 meter below the summit to keep it sacred (as it is not considered so officially).

  As a respect due to the mountain, the team only left 6 pitons (ones used for the abseils) on it.


expid: HIML13201
peakid: HIML
year: 2013
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Andrea Zimmermann
sponsor: Wild Yak Himlung Expedition 2013
approach: Koto->Phu
bcdate: 2013-08-01
smtdate: 2013-08-13
termdate: 2013-08-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to avalanche danger
campsites: BC(01/08,4700m),C1(03/08,5500m),C2(12/08,6100m),xxx(13/08,6400m)
agency: Wild Yak Expeditions
routememo:
  Team left C2 at 7 am to have a look at conditions on mountain. When they reached 6400m they decided to abandon climb as avalanche danger was too high. They returned to C2 at 9 am and carried on to BC same day.

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Norbu, 6/12/78, Ghunsa, Lelep-9, Taplejung, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X5, 
      Manaslu X1


expid: KANG13107
peakid: KANG
year: 2013
route1: SW Face
nation: China
leaders: Zhang Liang
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Kangchenjunga Expedition 2013
ascent1: 100th
bcdate: 2013-04-06
smtdate: 2013-05-20
smttime: 1545
termdate: 2013-05-26
campsites: BC(06/04,5500m),C1(16/04,6200m),C2(21/04,6500m),C3(19/05,7500m),Smt(20/05)
accidents: Phu Dorchi fell to his death
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  06 Apr  5500m
  C1  16 Apr  6200m
  C2  21 Apr  6500m
  C3  19 May  7500m
  Smt 20 May  by Zhang, Liu, Mingma and Phu Dorchi at 3:45 pm.

  Summit team left 7 pm on 19 May. The fixed rope was finished at 8100m. They roped up together. The way to summit was difficult and over a lot of rock, so they belayed each other or used old rope. They spent about 20 minutes on summit. On descent, Mingma, Liu and Zhang roped up, but Phu Dorchi did not and went down on his own.

  Phu Dorchi must have slipped at about 8000m and died. When the rest of the team came down, they did not know what had happened, only when they got back to C3 at 2 am on 21 May, they noticed that Phu Dorchi was not there. The descent was very slow as Liu was suffering from HACE and had difficulties going down. Mingma took him on a short rope.

  They slept at C3 for a few hours and descended to BC. They left at 8 am and got to BC at about 7 pm. Liu was feeling better again and was able to walk on his own again.

  They did not find Phu Dorchi’s body.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Zhang, Liu and Mingma
    Taken and used from C3 to top to point of death by Phu Dorchi

  Sherpas:
    Mingma Sherpa, Makalu
    Phu Dorchi, Makalu-5, Makalu-Barun, 30/4/82


expid: KANG13108
peakid: KANG
year: 2013
route1: SW Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Oscar Cadiach
sponsor: Port De Tarragona Kangchenjunga 2013
ascent1: 101
approach: Taplejung
bcdate: 2013-04-06
smtdate: 2013-05-20
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2013-05-24
campsites: BC(06/04,5500m),C1(16/04,6140m),C2(17/04,6400m),C3(02/05,7000m),C4(19/05,7700m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  06 Apr  5500m
  C1  16 Apr  6140m
  C2  17 Apr  6400m
  C3  02 May  7000m
  C4  19 May  7700m (near crevasse)
  Smt 20 May  by Cadiach, Nuri Sherpa at 4 pm.

  The team had put their C4 a bit higher than the normal C4 as Cadiach wanted to climb less than 1000m on summit day. Summit team and Rafols left C4 at 8 pm. Rafols reached 7900m, but had very cold feet and turned back at 10 pm. He descended to the lower C4 as the upper C4 was too exposed to rockfall. He stayed and waited for Cadiach.

  Cadiach and Nuri carried on to the summit. The teams using supplementary oxygen were ahead of him. Straightforward climb. He had two cups of coffee on the summit and stayed for 50 minutes to take pictures.

  On his descent, he saw Kim Hong-Bin from South Korea sitting on a rock at about 8300m. They continued down together. When they reached the fixed rope, he thought everyone was safe; however, he saw the bodies of the people who had fallen down near C4 and could not understand how that could have happened. He arrived at C4 at 3 am. Kim stayed in his tent, but left for his descent to BC before Cadiach.

  Cadiach packed up his C4 and descended to C3 on 21 May. He saw two dead bodies at about 7500m. On 22 May he descended to BC.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 by Nuri
    Cadiach not taken, not used

  Sherpa:
    Nuri Sherpa, Makalu


expid: KANG13109
peakid: KANG
year: 2013
route1: SW Face
nation: China
leaders: Luo Jing
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Kangchenjunga Expedition 2013
ascent1: 98th
approach: Taplejung
bcdate: 2013-04-06
smtdate: 2013-05-20
smttime: 1510
termdate: 2013-05-21
agency: Seven Summit Treks
campsites:
  BC(06/04,5500m),C1(24/04,6140m),C2(09/05,6400m),C3(7000m),C4A(10/05,7250m),C4B(19/04,7450m),Smt(20/05)

routememo:
  BC  06 Apr  5500m
  C1  24 Apr  6140m
  C2  09 May  6400m
  C3  ----    7000m
  C4A 10 May  7250m
  C4B 19 May  7450m
  Smt 20 May  by Jing at 3:10 pm.

  Jing and her Sherpa Nurbu left C4 at 6:30 pm. When they reached the end of the fixed lines [8100m] at 8:30 am, Nurbu decided to go down to C4. Jing carried on without a Sherpa. Straightforward climb. She was with Park Nam-Soo from the Korean team. She stayed 20 minutes on the summit and descended with Shahlaee from Iran.

  They descended to C4, where they arrived at midnight. Nurbu was at C4 waiting for her. On 21 May they descended to BC.

  The team set up a higher C4 on the summit push. They did not sleep at 7250m on 19 May, but moved straight up to 7450m where Nurbu pitched the camp.

  Oxygen:
    Used from C4 to top to C4 by Jing
    Used from 8000m to high point to 8000m by Nurbu

  Sherpa:
    Nurbu, Nurbugaon, Makalu-Barun, 10/12/84


expid: KANG13110
peakid: KANG
year: 2013
route1: SW Face
nation: Iran
leaders: Reza Shahlaee
sponsor: Iranian to Kangchenjunga
ascent1: 97th
approach: Biratnagar
bcdate: 2013-04-17
smtdate: 2013-05-20
smttime: 1700
termdate: 2013-05-24
campsites: BC(17/04,5500m),C1(20/04,6140m),C2(21/04,6400m),C3(26/04,7000m),C4(27/04,7960m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Dreamers Destination Treks
routememo:
  BC  17 Apr  5500m
  C1  20 Apr  6140m
  C2  21 Apr  6400m
  C3  26 Apr  7000m
  C4  27 Apr  7460m
  Smt 20 May  by Shalaee, Mingma Gyalje at 3 pm.

  Team left C4 at 7:30 pm on 19 May. Many teams left that day. They climbed to 8100m and the fixed rope ended. Shahlaee and Mingma Gyalje roped up together to climb safely. There were still parts of old fixed rope, which they used. They were four more people on the summit, where they stayed for about 45 minutes. He had no problems on the way down, but saw the dead bodies of the two Sherpas, the Hungarian and the South Korean near C2, who had fallen on their descent. After the summit they descended to C4, where they arrived at midnight.

  On 21 May they left C4 at 9 am and descended to BC.

  Team had tried for the summit already on 27 April. They left C4 at 7 pm on 26 April. They were on their own and when they reached 8100m at 6 am, they turned back as there was no fixed rope. They descended to C4, where they spent the night.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C4 to summit to C4
    Mingma Gyalje used no oxygen

  Sherpa:
    Mingma Gyalje, Beding, Dolakha, (2043/1/1) 14/4/86


  From Mingma Gyalje - 6 July 2022 (via WhatsApp)

  Mingma G: Hi Billi
  I made it without oxygen in 2013 with Reza on Kanchenjunga and I with Bibash Gurung fixed all the rope above Camp 4.

  Mingma G: Nima Gyalzen with Parvaneh Kazemi returned back from around 7600m.


expid: KANG13101
peakid: KANG
year: 2013
route1: SW Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Hong-Bin
sponsor: 2013 Korean Kangchenjunga Expedition
ascent1: 99th
approach: Taplejung
bcdate: 2013-04-05
smtdate: 2013-05-20
smttime: 1535
termdate: 2013-05-28
campsites: BC(05/04,4500m),C1(10/04,6200m),C2(11/04,6400m),C3(02/05,7000m),C4(19/05,7300m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  05 Apr  4500m
  C1  10 Apr  6200m
  C2  11 Apr  6400m
  C3  02 May  7000m
  C4  19 May  7300m
  Smt 20 May  by Kim, Park Nam Soo at 3:35 pm.

  Summit team and Park Sang-Hun left C4 at 6 pm on 19 May. Weather was good and not windy. When they reached 8100m, the fixed rope was finished and they had to climb alpine-style.

  When Park Sang-Hun reached 8400m at about 2 am, his oxygen was finished. He descended to C4. The others carried on and reached the summit at 3:35 pm. They stayed 5 minutes on the summit. Kim descended first. Park Nam-Soo's oxygen finished at 8400m. He was very tired and must have slipped on the ice at about 7600m. Kim was in front of him and did not notice. According to Cadiach, Kim did not say anything about the missing Nam-Soo, when they were at C4 together. Kim arrived at C4 at 3 am. He was with Oscar Cadiach.

  On 22 May he descended to BC. On 28 May they left BC by helicopter.

  The Sherpas found Nam-Soo's body and brought him to Kathmandu.

  Park Hyun-Su reached C3 on 2 May on acclimatization rotation. He did not feel well and did not try for the summit.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C4 to summit to 8400m by members


expid: KANG13102
peakid: KANG
year: 2013
route1: SW Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Carlos Soria
sponsor: BBVA Carlos Soria Kangchenjunga 2013
approach: Taplejung
bcdate: 2013-04-11
smtdate: 2013-05-20
termdate: 2013-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to no rope (too dangerous)
campsites: BC(11/04,5500m),C1(25/04,6140m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(18/05,7000m),C4(19/05,7460m),xxx(20/05,8300m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  11 Apr  5500m
  C1  25 Apr  6140m
  C2  26 Apr  6400m
  C3  18 May  7000m
  C4  19 May  7460m
  HPt 20 May  8300m by Soria, Muktu, Pasang Temba at 10:30 am.

  High-point team left C4 at 7 pm on 19 May, three hours after the rope-fixing team. At 2 am they had caught up with the rope fixers at 7800m. The progress was very slow and they had to wait a long time. At 8100m the rope fixers ran out of rope. Soria was with them and it was about 6 am. During the rope fixing they had problems with the Kevlar rope, which they were not used to.

  According to Soria, the communication between rope-fixing team was pretty bad. The team then overtook the rope fixers and followed the Iranian Reza Shahlaee and Nima Gyalzen and continued without rope. At about 8300m Soria decided to turn back as he thought that coming down would be too dangerous and he had already been going for 15 hours. [At 10:30 am] they turned back to C4, where they arrived at 4 pm. They were very tired. On 21 May the team descended to C1.

  In the night of 20 May an avalanche destroyed C2, but nobody was there.

  Salas reached 6600m on acclimatization rotation on 27 April. He never intended to summit as he was the base camp manager.

  Lopez and Martinez reached C4 on 19 May together with high-point team. When it became clear that the rope had not been fixed and that Soria might need two days for the summit attempt, they decided to abandon their summit bid as they would have run out of oxygen and their purpose for being there was to look after Soria. They left C4 at 12:30 pm and arrived at C3 at 2:30 pm.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C4 to high point to C4 by Soria, Muktu and Pasang Pemba

  Sherpas:
    Muktu Lhakpa (Muktuk), 21/8/72 Tashigaon, Makalu-Barun
    Pasang Temba, 20/1/83, Tashigaon, Makalu-Barun


expid: KANG13103
peakid: KANG
year: 2013
route1: SW Face
nation: Hungary
leaders: Zsolt Eross
sponsor: Hungarian Kangchenjunga 2013
ascent1: 102
countries: Slovakia
bcdate: 2013-04-03
smtdate: 2013-05-20
smttime: 1800
termdate: 2013-05-24
campsites: BC(03/04,5500m),C1(25/04,6200m),C2(26/04,6500m),C3(04/05,7000m),C4(19/05,7460m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  03 Apr  5500m
  C1  25 Apr  6200m
  C2  26 Apr  6500m
  C3  04 May  7000m
  C4  19 May  7460m
  Smt 20 May  by Kiss, Eross at 6 pm.

  Summit team left C4 at 6 pm. Straightforward climb, but slow due to climbing without supplementary oxygen and Eross' handicap (prosthesis on right leg). Weather was good. They were climbing with other members of Seven Summit Treks. They only spent about 15 minutes on the summit as they were late.

  At about 8 pm Eross contacted base camp and told them that Kiss had already gone down and that he was on his own and exhausted. He sat down and tried to take something out of his rucksack and it tumbled down. He rested just below the summit for about three hours. He then radioed again and told BC that he was continuing down. The last radio contact with Eross was at 3 pm on 21 May. Eross must have been at about 8300m and probably died of exhaustion.

  Kiss must have gone back up for 200m to look for Eross in the night and must have fallen to his death at about 8200m in the couloirs. BC had no radio contact with him as he had switched off his radio.

  There was nothing Dutka and Kollar could do at BC during the night. When Kim Hong-Bin from South Korea came down, he showed them a picture of a dead body and they identified that it was Kiss.

  Dutka reached C3 on 4 May on acclimatization rotation. He did not join the summit attempt as he was feeling sick.

  Kollar was BC manager and never intended to climb.

  Oxygen:
    Not taken, not used


expid: KANG13104
peakid: KANG
year: 2013
route1: SW Face
nation: Iran
leaders: Parvaneh Kazemi
sponsor: Iranian Woman on Kangchenjunga
approach: Biratnager
bcdate: 2013-04-18
smtdate: 2013-05-12
termdate: 2013-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 8200m due to lack of fixed rope
agency: Dreamers Destination Treks
campsites:
  BC(18/04,5500m),C1(25/04,6200m),C2(26/04,6500m),C3(08/05,7150m),C4A(12/05,7350m),C4B(19/05,7500m),xxx(12/05,8200m)

routememo:
  BC at normal BC site
  C1 above icefall
  High point at 8200m.

  Kazemi launched her first summit bid by making her C4 at 7350m on 10 May, and that night, at 11:00 pm setting out for the top. However at 5:00 the next morning, she felt it was too late for her to get to the summit, and she returned to C4. She had been climbing with an Iranian man (Shahalee) and a Bangladeshi (Mohit) and their Sherpas.

  She rested in C4, then at 10:30 pm on the 11th, she again left for the summit, this time with a Chinese woman, Luo Jing. Now at 2:30 the next afternoon, she managed to get as  high as 8200m, at the bottom of a couloir, but there were no fixed ropes above this point, it was very cold and windy, and again she retreated to C4, at 8:00 pm. On the 13th she was back in BC.

  She decided her C4 should be moved higher, so on the 18th she returned to C4 and on the 19th took it 150m higher to 7500m. That evening she began another summit push, but by 7:00 pm, she couldn't breathe. At 7900m she decided to return to C4, and at 3:00 am on the 20th she was back in C4. She intended to descend that day to C2 (6500m), but instead continued down to BC, taking her C2 gear with her.

  That night an avalanche struck C2. Kazemi did not attempt to go up again because of pneumonia. Large crevasses had opened up and weather was changing quickly. She left BC on the 24th and reached Kathmandu on 1 June.

  Kazemi had one Sherpa helping her, Nima Gyalzen, who reached the high point of 8200m with her on 12 May.

  Sherpa:
    Nima Gyalzen, 9/8/85, Beding, Everest X5, Manaslu X3, Cho Oyu X1


expid: KANG13105
peakid: KANG
year: 2013
route1: SW Face
nation: Bangladesh
leaders: Mohammad Abdul Mohit
sponsor: Bangladesh Kangchenjunga Expedition 2013
approach: Bhadrapur
bcdate: 2013-04-28
smtdate: 2013-05-11
termdate: 2013-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to bad weather and lack of oxygen supply
campsites: BC(28/04,5550m),C1(01/05,6100m),C2(02/05,6400m),C3(08/05,7100m),C4(10/05,7300m),xxx(11/05,7600m)
agency: Dreamers Destination Treks
routememo:
   7 May BC to C2.
   8 May C3 (stayed in C3 on 8 and 9 May).
  10 May C3 to C4 (3:00 pm arrival).

  11:00 pm start of summit push (returned to C4 after 300m due to windy and snowy condition).

  11 May second attempt to summit (returned to C4 after 100m due to bad weather and stomach problem).

  12 May oxygen supply finished.
  13 May returned to BC.

  Sherpa:
    Mingma Gyalje, Beding, Dolakha, (2043/1/1) 14/4/86


expid: KANG13106
peakid: KANG
year: 2013
route1: SW Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Mario Vielmo
sponsor: Kangchenjunga Expedition 2013
ascent1: 96th
approach: By air to Bhadrapur->bus to Khamding->trek to BC
bcdate: 2013-04-25
smtdate: 2013-05-20
termdate: 2013-05-25
campsites: BC(25/04,5500m),C1(28/04,6200m),C2(29/04,6350m),C3(06/05,6950m),C4(19/05,7400m),Smt(20/05)
accidents: Vielmo frostbite; Bibas fatal fall
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  All four members began the expedition's push to the summit together with their reoccupation of C2 on 17 May. They returned to C3 on the 18th, with Bibas Gurung and Phurpu Bhote and established C4 at 7400m on the 19th.

  The six climbers left C4 for the top at 9 pm on the 19th. But two members turned around before reaching the summit because they were very tired: Forgiarini gave up at 7700m and Fioretti at 8350m. Phurpu also turned back at about 8100m. "I think Sherpa Phurpu came back because he was not next to me" Vielmo explained. The three returned to C4 for the night."

  Vielmo and Bibas continued to the top with two Hungarians, Zsolt Eross and Peter Kiss, from a different team. Vielmo and Bibas were on the summit at about 5:20-5:25 pm on 20 May without fixed ropes and bottled oxygen.

  The two men then descended via a crevasse with Vielmo in the lead. Vielmo has assummed that Bibas slipped coming down the crevasse, but since Vielmo was ahead, he did not see what actually happened to him. Bibas body was found 700-800m lower down above C4 [according to Parvaneh Kazemi]. Vielmo got back to his C4 tent at 3:30 am on the 21st after 30 hours of climbing.

  The three members and Phurpu Bhote left BC on 25 May and returned to Kathmandu on 1 June.

  Two of Vielmo's fingers became frostbitten, but they healed well.

  Sherpas:
    Bibas Gurung, 6/6/88, Hatiya-8, Sankhuwasabha, Lhotse X1
    Phurpu Bhote, 7/5/76 (25/1/2033), Hatiya-1, Sankhuwasabha


expid: KYAZ13101
peakid: KYAZ
year: 2013
route1: E Face
nation: Russia
leaders: Vladimir Belousov
sponsor: Russian-Ukrainian Kyazo Ri
countries: Ukraine
bcdate: 2013-05-02
smtdate: 2013-05-13
termdate: 2013-05-15
campsites: BC(02/05),Smt(13/05)
achievment: 1st ascent of E Face
routememo:
  The team was composed of only two members, Vladimir Belousov (Russian) and Ms. Marina Kopteva (Ukrainian). They had no Sherpa helpers, took no oxygen with them, and had no fixed camps above BC.

  They claimed the first ascent of the East Face of this Khumbu peak. They climbed the mountain in pure alpine style with four bivouacs. They started their ascent on 9 May and were on the summit on 13 May. They descended all the way to BC on the 14th by their ascent route.

  The face's steepness was 70-90 degrees from 5100m to 5600m, then 45 degrees from 5600m to the top.


expid: LHOT13105
peakid: LHOT
year: 2013
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Christopher Klinke
sponsor: Rolwaling Excursion Lhotse 2013
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2013-04-21
smtdate: 2013-05-21
termdate: 2013-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to too much wind and tiredness
othersmts: Summited Everest on 23 May (EVER-131-55)
campsites: BC(21/04,5350m),C1(27/04,6000m),C2(28/04,6400m),C3(02/05,7300m),C4(21/05,7800m),xxx(21/05,7800m)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
primid: EVER13155
routememo:
  Mix was part of Chris Klinke's expedition to Everest, but was attempting Lhotse. He did acclimatization rotation with Everest team and went to C4 on Lhotse same day Everest team went to South Col. After a very windy night, he decided to descend. He went all way to BC in 11 hours.


expid: LHOT13106
peakid: LHOT
year: 2013
route1: S Col-W Face
nation: UK
leaders: Kenton Cool
sponsor: Dream Guides Lhotse Expedition 2013
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2013-04-21
smtdate: 2013-05-20
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2013-05-22
othersmts: Summited Nuptse on 16 May (NUPT-131-01) and Everest on 20 May (EVER-131-61)
agency: Himalayan Guides
primid: EVER13161
campsites:
  BC(21/04,5350m),C2(28/04,6400m),C3(11/05,7300m),C4.EVER(18/04,7900m),EVER.Smt(19/05),C4.LHOT(19/05,7800m),Smt(20/05)

routememo:
  After a rest and a drink, Cool left C4 again at 9:30 am to move over to Lhotse C4 (7800m), where he arrived at 11:30 am (Dorje Gyalzen had descended to C2). At about 6 pm the same day, he had heard about the Taiwanese climber, Hsaio-Shih Lee, who was very unwell in his tent at Lhotse lower C4. Cool moved down to be with Lee and stayed with him the whole night. Lee passed away at about 7 am on 20 May.

  Cool went back to his camp, rested a bit and left for the summit at 9:15 am (Mike Roberts from Adventure Consultants had popped in for a quick drink and Cool left about 5 minutes after Roberts).

  Straightforward climb. Couloirs was very dry. He spent about 15 minutes on the summit; however, it was very cloudy and he did not see anything. He descended to C2, where he arrived at 5 pm.

  Cool was climbing on his own, as his Nigerian client Abiola, never made it to Nepal. He had other political engagements and cancelled the expedition.


  From Lindsay Griffin - 2 October 2013

  The two [Kenton Cool and Dorje Gyalzen] then made an extremely speedy descent to the South Col (in a little over two hours), where a few hours sleep was grabbed before they left at 10:00 am for Lhotse's Camp 4 (~7800m), arriving two hours later. Rather than get any much-needed sleep that night, the two found themselves caring for a stricken Taiwanese mountaineer, Lee Hsiao-shih, who had collapsed after summiting Lhotse. Despite administering dexamethasone and oxygen throughout the night, Lee passed away the following morning.

  At that point Cool nearly gave up, but at 9:15 am on the 20th he and Dorje Gyalgen left camp in the company of New Zealand guide Mike Roberts and Tendi Sherpa, who had come up to rescue Lee, and reached Lhotse's summit at around 1:00 pm. Over the last few years Lhotse has been fixed all the way to the top, and this season was no different, work being carried out by Sherpas employed by operators Himex, Adventure Consultants and International Mountain Guides. Although some of the anchors may have been rather dodgy, the 10mm static rope was comfortingly sound. Cool and Dorje Gyalgen descended to Camp 2 in the Western Cwm the same day, and made it back to base camp on the 21st.

  Cool used a couple of oxygen bottles on Everest, and one on Lhotse.


expid: LHOT13107
peakid: LHOT
year: 2013
route1: W Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Alex Chicon (Alex Txikon)
sponsor: Bizkaia Gailurretan Nuptse Expedition
countries: Mexico
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2013-04-10
smtdate: 2013-05-21
smttime: 1145
termdate: 2013-05-25
othersmts: Summited Nuptse on 16 May (NUPT-131-02)
campsites: BC(10/04,5350m),C1(6000m),C2(15/04,6400m),C3(19/05,7200m),C4(20/05,7750m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
primid: NUPT13102
routememo:
  BC  10 Apr  5350m
  C1  ---		6000m
  C2  15 Apr  6400m
  C3  19 May  7200m
  C4  20 May  7750m
  Smt 21 May  by Txikon at 11:45 am.

  After having climbed Nuptse, Chicon (Txikon) went back to C2 on 17 May. He rested for two days and climbed to Lhotse C3 on 19 May, together with Salazar and Madariaga. At C3 Salazar was worried about thrombosis as he had it before and Madariaga was suffering from chest pain. They both descended on 20 May.

  On summit day, Chicon left C4 at 2:30 am. Weather was good. He spent about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where he arrived at 2 pm. He rested there for a while and carried on to C2, where he arrived at 7 pm. BC on 22 May.

  Tamayo reached C2 on 15 April. He was also intending to climb Nuptse with Chicon. However, on 14 May he woke up at BC with a swollen knee and the doctors at HRA clinic diagnosed him with a torn meniscus. He was flown out of BC on 15 May.

  After his climb, Chicon, Ferran La Torre and Jorge Egocheaga from another team took a helicopter to Dhaulagiri I to rescue their friend Juanjo Garra, who had broken a leg and was lying at 7700m. Egocheaga reached Garra, but unfortunately too late. He died 25 minutes after Egocheaga's arrival.

  Oxygen:
    Not taken, not used


expid: LHOT13108
peakid: LHOT
year: 2013
route1: W Face
nation: China
leaders: Zhang Wei
sponsor: Yang's Explorer Lhotse 2013
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2013-04-19
smtdate: 2013-05-19
smttime: 0545
termdate: 2013-05-21
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-131-19)
campsites: BC(19/04,5350m),C1(26/04,6000m),C2(27/04,6400m),C3(17/05,7200m),C4(18/05,7750m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
primid: EVER13119
routememo:
  BC  19 Apr  5350m
  C1  26 Apr  6000m
  C2  27 Apr  6400m
  C3  17 May  7200m
  C4  18 May  7750m
  Smt 19 May  by Zhang, Qiu, Ang Kami, Dorjee at 5:45 am.

  On 18 May Zhang helped to bring the sick Taiwanese climber Lee, who later died, a little bit further down to the lower tents. He helped move him for about 25 meters, which took about 2 hours.

  Summit team left C4 at 10:30 pm on 18 May. Good weather, no wind. Straightforward climb. They spent about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at 5 pm. On 20 May they descended to BC.

  Bai reached C2 on 27 April and 15 May. He stayed there for two nights, but he knew he was too slow to go to the summit. He descended to BC on 17 May and left BC on 18 May.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C4 to top to 7800m by Zhang and Sherpas
    Taken and used from C2 to top to C2 by Qiu

  Sherpas:
    Ang Kami, Makalu-9, Makalu-Barun, 27/5/1987
    Dorjee, Makalu


expid: LHOT13109
peakid: LHOT
year: 2013
route1: W Face
nation: Australia
leaders: Ralph Schweizer
sponsor: Baruntse-Lhotse Australian Expedition
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2013-05-06
smtdate: 2013-05-20
smttime: 1700
termdate: 2013-05-23
othersmts: Attempted Baruntse (BARU-131-02)
campsites: BC(06/05,5350m),C2(03/05,6400m),C3(10/05,7300m),C4(19/05,7800m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Ang Rita Treks
primid: BARU13102
routememo:
  Schweizer and Dignan (of another expedition) left C4 at 6 am. Straightforward climb. Lot of rock fall. Spent about 15 minutes on summit, it was partially cloudy and windy. He and Dignan descended to C4, where they arrived at 8 pm. On 21 May to C2. On 22 May to BC.

  Other three members from Baruntse team (Jack Carmody, Peter Malliaris and Russell Tomlin) did not go to Lhotse (and were not listed on the Lhotse permit).


expid: LHOT13110
peakid: LHOT
year: 2013
route1: W Face
nation: France
leaders: Yannick Gagneret
sponsor: Objective 8000 to Lhotse
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2013-04-10
smtdate: 2013-05-23
smttime: 0845
termdate: 2013-05-26
campsites: BC(10/04,5350m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3(25/04,7400m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Gagneret left C3 at 7 pm on 22 May. Perfect weather, not many people. He stayed 5 minutes on summit and descended to C3, arrived at 7 pm. During descent he heard voices and was a bit confused. On 24 May he descended to C2. On 25 May to BC.


expid: LHOT13111
peakid: LHOT
year: 2013
route1: W Face
nation: Slovakia
leaders: Peter Hamor
sponsor: International Team on Lhotse
countries: Italy, Romania, Spain
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2013-04-18
smtdate: 2013-05-21
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2013-05-24
othersmts: Summited Island Peak
campsites: BC(18/04,5350m),C2(04/05,6400m),C3(12/05,7300m),C4(20/05,7800m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Team left C4 at 2 am. Perfect weather. Bit of rockfall when other people came down. They spent 10 minutes on summit. Descended to C3, arrived at 5 pm. Egocheaga descended to C2, but went back to C2 to pick up Marco Comfortola. He reached C3 at 6 pm and both Egocheaga and Comfortola descended to C2, arrived at 3 am on 22 May. On 22 May Hamor and Colibasanu packed up to C2 and descended to BC on 23 May.

  Ionescu reached 7400m on 20 May, but he did not feel well and descended to C2.


expid: LHOT13112
peakid: LHOT
year: 2013
route1: W Face
nation: Australia
leaders: Anthony Dignan
sponsor: Australian Lhotse Spring 2013
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2013-04-10
smtdate: 2013-05-20
smttime: 1700
termdate: 2013-05-23
campsites: BC(10/04,5350m),C2(01/05,6400m),C3(08/05,7300m),C4(19/05,7800m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
routememo:
  Dignan left C4 at 6 am. He was overtaken by Kenton Cool. Weather was calm. He spent about 20 minutes on summit and descended to C4, where he arrived at 8 pm. He did not have a headlamp which made going down very difficult. 21 May descended to C2. On 22 May to BC.

  Dignan was climbing with Ralph Schweizer of Ang Rita Treks.


expid: LHOT13113
peakid: LHOT
year: 2013
route1: W Face
nation: UK
leaders: Melanie Southworth
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks to Lhotse
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2013-05-03
smtdate: 2013-05-21
smttime: 0530
termdate: 2013-05-23
othersmts: Summited Island Peak
campsites: BC(03/05,5350m),C1(06/05,6000m),C2(07/05,6400m),C3(19/05,7300m),C4(20/05,7800m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Team started from C4 at midnight. Nobody else was on route. Straightforward climb. Problems with oxygen system just below the summit when Southworth noticed that oxygen was leaking. Karma sorted it out and it was Ok on way down. They spent 15 minutes on summit and descended to C2, arrived at 1 pm. On 22 May to BC.

  Sherpa:
    Karma Gyalzen, Makalu-9, 4/9/83


expid: LHOT13114
peakid: LHOT
year: 2013
route1: W Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Ferran Latorre
sponsor: Spanish Lhotse Expedition
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2013-04-23
smtdate: 2013-05-22
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2013-05-25
campsites: BC(23/04,5350m),C2(27/04,6400m),C3(01/05,7200m),C4(21/05,7750m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  23 Apr  5350m
  C1  ----    6000m
  C2  27 Apr  6400m
  C3  01 May  7200m
  C4  21 May  7750m
  Smt 22 May  by Latorre, Llonch Casasampera at 10 am.

  Team left C4 at 2 am. Straightforward climb. Spent about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to C3, where they arrived at 4 pm. BC on 23 May.

  After their climb, La Torre together with Alex Chicon (Txikon) and Jorge Egocheaga from another team took a helicopter to Dhaulagiri I to rescue their friend Juanjo Garra, who had broken a leg and was lying at 7700m. Egocheaga reached Garra, but unfortunately too late. He died 25 minutes after Egocheaga's arrival.

  Oxygen:
    Not taken, not used

  Sherpas:
    None


expid: LHOT13115
peakid: LHOT
year: 2013
route1: W Face
nation: UK
leaders: Paul Keleher
sponsor: ICE 8000 Lhotse Expedition 2013
countries: Belgium
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2013-04-15
smtdate: 2013-05-23
smttime: 0850
termdate: 2013-05-25
campsites: BC(15/04,5350m),C1(25/04,6000m),C2(28/04,6400m),C3(11/05,7200m),C4(22/05,7750m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  15 Apr  5350m
  C1  25 Apr  6000m
  C2  28 Apr  6400m
  C3  11 May  7200m
  C4  22 May  7750m
  Smt 23 May  by Smets and Lhakpa Wangchu at 8:50 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 2 am. Perfect weather. Bit of rockfall in the couloirs. Team spent about 15 minutes on the summit. Good views and slight breeze. They descended to C4 in 1-1/2 hours, short rest at C4 and descended to C2, where they arrived at 3 pm. On 24 May to BC.

  Keleher reached C3 at 29 April. He did not feel strong and abandoned the expedition. He left BC on 15 May.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C4 to top to bottom of Lhotse face at 6600m by Smets and
      Lhakpa Wangchu

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Wangchu, Pangboche, 23/10/86


expid: LHOT13116
peakid: LHOT
year: 2013
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Robert Arciaga
sponsor: USA Lhotse Spring 2013
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2013-04-12
smtdate: 2013-05-02
termdate: 2013-05-06
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to not strong enough
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),C1(26/04,5900m),C2(27/04,6300m),C3(01/05,6500m),xxx(02/05,7500m)
agency: Dream Himalaya Adventures
routememo:
  Arciaga's original plan was: 

    (1) come back alive
    (2) reach 8000m 
    (3) reach the summit

  Once he realised as difficult it was to breath in high altitude (mostly with an old Russian mask) and that the Lhotse West Face normal route was rather more technical than Everest, even in a good shape, he decided to cancel goals 3 and 2 for completing 1.

  They left BC, went back to Kathmandu for two days and then went trekking in Ganesh Himal for two weeks.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and not used

  Sherpa:
    Ang Kaji Sherpa, 21/8/84, Kharikhola, Solukhumbu


expid: LHOT13117
peakid: LHOT
year: 2013
route1: W Face
nation: Iran
leaders: Alireza Behpour
sponsor: Iranian Expedition to Lhotse
bcdate: 2013-04-26
smtdate: 2013-05-21
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2013-05-25
campsites: BC(26/04,5300m),C2(20/04,6400m),C3(06/05,7200m),C4(20/05,7800m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  The summit party, both members (Behpour and Ramezani) plus Lhakpa Sherpa, left C4 for the top at 2:30 am on 21 May and they were on the summit at 10:00 am that day. They descended to C3 at 3 pm and were in BC the next day, the 22nd.

  The two Iranians used oxygen in and above C4 to the summit and down to C4. Their Sherpa used it from C4 to the summit only.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Sherpa, 15/6/75, Khumjung


expid: LHOT13119
peakid: LHOT
year: 2013
route1: W Face
nation: Belgium
leaders: Bart Menu
sponsor: Axismundi Lhotse Expedition
bcdate: 2013-04-12
smtdate: 2013-05-05
termdate: 2013-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to members' altitude sickness
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),C1(17/04,6100m),C2(25/04,6500m),C3(05/05,7500m),xxx(05,18/05,7100m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  The Belgians established C3 at 7,500 m on 5 May and then went down to BC for a rest and to acclimatize to Khumbu's altitude.

  They returned to C3 on 18 May and planned to sleep for one night there, go back to C2 for one night, again to go up to C3 for a night, move upto C4 and go for the summit.

  But they got to sleep in C3 because both members had altitude sickness and his teammate Artinopoulos was seriously dehydrated. They again went down to C2 hoping to find medical help for Artinopoulos there, but there was none to be found. They decided not to take any risk, descended to BC and abandoned the climb.


expid: LHOT13121
peakid: LHOT
year: 2013
route1: W Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Suzanne Huesser
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Lhotse Expedition 2013
countries: France, Japan, Latvia, Netherlands, UK
bcdate: 2013-04-12
smtdate: 2013-05-17
smttime: 1014
termdate: 2013-05-20
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-131-79); attempted Nuptse (NUPT-131-03)
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(04/05,7400m),C4(16/05,7800m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Mountain Experience
primid: EVER13179
routememo:
  Himalayan Experience had three teams on the immediate Everest area: to Everest, to Lhotse and to Nuptse. Russell Brice was the overall leader/organizer/supervisor, while Suzanne Huesser was the leader on the mountain. The three team's Sherpas totalled 20; 13 of these men summited Everest, three of the Everest summiters also summited Lhotse and three others also summited Nuptse.

  The Lhotse expedition had eight members, but only half of them went to the top. The non-summiting members were:

  Ms. Martine Marsigny, who had been on the Nuptse team also, but from left BC on 7 May to go home because she didn't want to go through the Icefall any more.

  Francois Marsigny summited Nuptse on 16 May instead of attempting Nuptse.

  Spruzs summited Everest 17 May, was too tired to try for another summit, so descended to C2 without attempting Lhotse.

  Tait summited Everest on 10 May and decided not to try for Lhotse also.

  Those who did go for top arrived there on 17 May. They were Ishikawa with Fura Chheten at 10:14 am, Huesser with Lhakpa Nuru at 11:23 am, Bergsma with Tashi Chhiring at 11:33 am, and Shimada with Gyalzen Dorje two minutes later. Three of these Sherpas, Fura Chheten, Rita Dorje and Sonam Finjo, went on to gain the summit of Everest a week later after having descended to BC in the interim.

  Members used oxygen from C3 to the summit and back to C3. Their Sherpas used it from C4 to the top to C4.

  Sherpas:
    Fura Chheten, 29/8/90, Phortse
    Gyalgen Dorje, 17/2/88, Phortse
    Lhakpa Nuru, 18/6/80, Phortse
    Tashi Chhiring, 8/5/90, Khumjung


expid: LHOT13122
peakid: LHOT
year: 2013
route1: W Face
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Guy Cotter
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Lhotse Expedition 2013
countries: Australia, Canada
bcdate: 2013-04-12
smtdate: 2013-05-22
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2013-05-25
campsites: BC(12/04,5300m),C1(21/04,6000m),C2(28/04,6400m),C3(08/05,7400m),C4(21/05,7800m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  All four members got to the top with four Sherpas. They left C4 at 1:30 am on 22 May, reached the summit at 7:30 am and descended all the way to C2 at 6:00 pm. They were in BC the next day, 23 May.

  Members usd oxygen in C3 to the summit to C3, while their Sherpas used it from C4 to the top to C4.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Ang Phurba Sherpa, 25/11/85, Khembalung, Yaphu-9, Everest X1, Manaslu X2
    Dawa Temba Sherpa, 8/7/89, Yaphu-9, Everest X1
    Mingma Dupka, 28/6/80, Yaphu-9, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1
    Pemba Ongdi Sherpa, 2/11/87, Yaphu-9, Everest X1


expid: LHOT13124
peakid: LHOT
year: 2013
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: SummitClimb Lhotse Expedition 2013
countries: Australia, Germany, Finland, Poland, Slovakia
bcdate: 2013-04-17
smtdate: 2013-05-19
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2013-05-26
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-131-80)
campsites: BC(17/04,5300m),C1(23/04,6000m),C2(28/04,6400m),C3(02/05,7000m),C4(18/05,7800m),Smt(19,23/05)
agency: Everest Parivar
primid: EVER13180
routememo:
  Although there were 12 members on the team, nine of them did not plan to climb above C3 (7000m); only three of them intended to go to the top. They were Fila, Hyrylainen and Pontinen, and all three succeeded. [The others were on the Lhotse permit to gain access to the Western Cwm for a training climb on the W Face of Lhotse.]

  C4 was established on 18 May at 7800m by Hyrylainen, Pontinen, Sherpas Lhakpa and Pasang. They left camp for the top at 1:00 am on the 19th. Hyrylainen and Lhakpa reached the summit at 6:00 am, while Pontinen and Pasang summited at 7:30 am. They descended to C2 at 3:30 pm.

  On the 22nd, Fila and Karma Gyalje left C4 at 1:00 am, were on the top at 6:45 am and went down to C2 at noon.

  The members used oxygen from C3 to the summit to C3; their Sherpas used it from Lhotse's C4 to the summit and back to Lhotse's C4.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Karma Gyalje Sherpa, 18/1/82 (5/10/2038), Patle, Okhaldhunga
    Lhakpa Sherpa, 24/1/64 (10/10/2020), Patle
    Pasang Sherpa, 1/10/85 (15/6/2042), Patle


expid: MAKA13105
peakid: MAKA
year: 2013
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Don Bowie
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Makalu Expedition 2013
approach: Helicopter from Lukla to Hillary BC
bcdate: 2013-04-18
smtdate: 2013-05-15
termdate: 2013-05-19
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to chest infection
campsites: BC(18/04,4700m),ABC(22/04,5700m),C1(12/05,6200m),C2(13-14/05,6666m),xxx(15/05,7300m)
accidents: 4 weeks chest infection from the 27th of April
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  From the 27th of April Bowie got chest infection which lasted the entire expedition duration. Thus he went a few days in Yangla Kharka to recover staying 4 nights (from the 6th to the 7th), then he came back on the 8 May at BC, then slept 2 nights in ABC (10 & 11th of May), slept at C1 on the 12th, slept at C2 for 2 nights (13th and 14th of May, GPS showing 6666m exactly).

  On the 15th of May he reached nearby the Makalu La (at 7300m) in strong wind conditions, then went back to the ABC that same day, On the 16th of May he decided to abandon the climb due to continuous chest infection.


expid: MANA13102
peakid: MANA
year: 2013
route1: NE Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Sergio Martini
sponsor: Italian Manaslu
approach: Arughat
bcdate: 2013-04-23
smtdate: 2013-05-21
termdate: 2013-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(23/04,4700m),C1(27/04,5500m),C2(02/05,6400m),C3(20/05,6700m),xxx(21/05,7100m)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  High point team climbed for about 3 hours. When Martini reached 7100m, the conditions were difficult further up. At C3 lot of snow. He decided to turn back. Team descended to BC same day. They had started at 7 am from C3, arrived at BC at about 1 pm. The snow between C1 and BC was very deep.

  Sherpa:
    Kami Sherpa, Salleri, Solu, age 40 yrs


expid: MANA13104
peakid: MANA
year: 2013
route1: NE Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Marco Farina
sponsor: Italian Manaslu 2013
approach: Samagaon
bcdate: 2013-04-17
smtdate: 2013-05-21
termdate: 2013-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 7440m due to bad condtions and bad weather
campsites: BC(17/04,4800m),C1(20/04,5070m),C2(26/04,6500m),C3(11/05,7100m),C4(21/05,7440m),xxx
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  BC  17 Apr  4800m
  C1  20 Apr  5070m
  C2  26 Apr  6500m
  C3  11 May  7100m
  C4  21 May  7400m
  HPt 21 May  7400m by de Leo, Nima Sherpa.

  On 11 May the team was attempting for the summit and reached C3. It was very windy and they descended to BC the following day in knee-deep snow. After this first summit attempt, Farina had to leave (Farina's high point was C3).

  De Leo tried again for the summit and reached C4 with 2 Spanish and Zaffaroni. The weather was bad again with a lot of wind and they descended to BC on 22 May.

  Oxygen:
    Not taken, not used


expid: MANA13105
peakid: MANA
year: 2013
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Anselm Baud
sponsor: Gregory Costa Search Expedition
approach: Samagaon
bcdate: 2013-05-05
smtdate: 2013-05-21
termdate: 2013-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to search mission only
campsites: BC(05/05,4700m),C1(17/05,5600m),C2(20/05,6500m),xxx(21/05,6600m)
agency: Adventure 6000
routememo:
  BC  05 May  4700m
  C1  17 May  5600m
  C2  20 May  6500m
  HPt 21 May  6600m by Anselm Baud, Christopher Baud, Costa, Pemba Gyalzen, 
              Tendi Sherpa.

  The expedition never intended to summit as they were looking for the body of Gregory Costa, who died in the avalanche in autumn 2012. They were looking from C2. The body should be at about 6600m, but Baud thinks that the glacier has moved about 150m over the past nine months. They used GPS for the search and Reco, which responds to metal, watches and telephones. They spent two days searching around at an altitude of about 6600m, but they could not find anything. There was a lot of snow, which made the search difficult. They stopped after two days and descended to BC on 22 May.

  The team will not come back as finding the body seems impossible.

  Oxygen:
    Not taken, not used

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Gyalzen/Gyalze, Pangkoma, Solukhumbu, 29/11/1973
    Tendi, Gudel-4, Solukhumbu, 2/12/76


expid: NUPT13101
peakid: NUPT
year: 2013
route1: N Face
nation: UK
leaders: Kenton Cool
sponsor: Dream Guides Nuptse Expedition 2013
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2013-04-21
smtdate: 2013-05-16
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2013-05-22
othersmts: Summited Everest on 20 May (EVER-131-61) and Lhotse on 21 May (LHOT-131-06)
campsites: BC(21/04,5350m),C2(28/04,6400m),C3(15/05,6800m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
primid: EVER13161
routememo:
  Cool did not intend to make solo ascents, but his client dropped out before getting to Nepal. Cool just went ahead with the program without him.

  Cool left C3 at 2:15 am together with Alex Chicon (Txikon) from Spain and the Himex team. Weather was clear with gusts of wind. When Cool and Txikon reached the highest point on the ridge, they were trying to fix about 80m of rope length up to one of the cornices. However, the cornice was full of holes and very dangerous, so they decided to leave it.


  Cool’s account of his summit day by email - 01/06/2013:

  "I led out the 80m of rope which is the orange line on the photo; on the back side it was steep snow and I didn't go over all the little peaks rather traversed away from the camera.

  I fixed the line to a rather poor snowstake, then decided to count to see what was around the snow summit (I couldn't see past it). It seemed that the next bit was higher so I soloed off for 5 minutes of so until I got more than a little scared. I think I got to the flatter area in the photo behind the very obvious spikey summit looking thing in the middle. Like a fool I didn't take any photos (my rucksack was with Alex).

  In terms of vertical it was maybe (I'm guessing here)..40m higher, the end of the rope which I led out was maybe 25m higher or so.."

  He spent about 1-1/2 hours on the "summit" (on bottom of the cornice) descended to C3, where he arrived at 3 pm. He had a quick drink before he continued to C2 where he arrived at 5:45 pm the same day.


  [Note: according to Ralf Dujmovits the true summit is further to the left. It involves traversing underneath the two horns and then joining the ridge left of the horns.]


expid: NUPT13102
peakid: NUPT
year: 2013
route1: N Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Alex Chicon (Alex Txikon)
sponsor: Bizkaia Gailurretan Nuptse Expedition
countries: Mexico
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2013-04-10
smtdate: 2013-05-16
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2013-05-25
othersmts: Summited Lhotse on 21 May (LHOT-131-07)
campsites: BC(10/04,5350m),C2(15/04,6400m),C3(05/05,6800m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  10 Apr  5350m
  C1  ----    6000m
  C2  15 Apr  6400m
  C3  05 May  6800m
  Smt 16 May  by Txikon at 10:30 am.

  Chicon (Txikon) left C3 at 2:15 am together with Kenton Cool from the UK and the Himex team. Weather was clear with gust of wind. He summited at 10:30 am. Txikon and Cool were trying to fix about 80m of rope length up to one of the cornices. However, the cornice was full of holes and very dangerous, so they decided to leave it.

  After having spent about 2 hours on the "summit", he descended to C3, where he arrived at 4 pm. The following day he descended to C2, where he stayed until 19 May when he ascended again to C3 on the Lhotse Face to climb Lhotse.

  Tamayo reached about 7500m during a summit attempt on 6 May with Txikon. They abandoned the first summit attempt as they had been going for 12 hours and were still far from the summit. It was before the Himex Sherpas had fixed the ropes, which meant they took a lot longer as they were climbing alpine-style. It was also very windy.

  After their first summit attempt on Nuptse they descended to BC. On 14 May Tamayo woke up at BC with a swollen knee and found out that it was a torn meniscus. He took a helicopter to Kathmandu the same day.

  Oxygen:
    Not taken, not used


  [Note: according to Ralf Dujmovits the true summit is further to the left. It involves traversing underneath the two horns and then joining the ridge left of the horns.]


expid: NUPT13103
peakid: NUPT
year: 2013
route1: NE Spur/Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Nuptse Expedition 2013
countries: China, France, Germany, Kenya, UK, USA
bcdate: 2013-04-10
smtdate: 2013-05-16
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2013-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7785m due to dangerous cornice conditions
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-131-79) and Lhotse (LHOT-131-21)
campsites: BC(10/04,5350m),C1(6000m),C2(01/05,6400m),Sherpas.C3(14/05,6800m),C3.Mbrs.(15/05),xxx(16/05,7785m)
agency: Mountain Experience
primid: EVER13179
routememo:
  Summit team left C3 at 2:15 am together with Kenton Cool from the UK and Alex Chicon (Txikon) from Spain. Weather was clear - with gusts of wind. Txikon and Cool summited an hour ahead of Miller and Nima Tshering and were trying to fix about 80m of rope length up to one of the cornices (two horns). However, the cornice was full of holes and very dangerous, so they decided to leave it.

  The Himex team reached the point underneath the two horns which is not the highest point on Nuptse (high point is 7864m), but 70m below summit. The route was impossible to climb that year, as the cornice was full of holes and dangerous - but maybe they should get an asterisk in the database for not having reached the very highest point (the same applies to Cool and Txikon).

  Miller, who was using supplementary oxygen, and Nima Tshering reached the high point at 11:30 am and the rest of the team joined them at 12:30 pm. They stayed aout 30 minutes on "summit" and descended to C3, where they arrived between 4 pm and 7 pm. On 17th May descent to C2 and on 18th May BC.

  Martine Marsigny reached C2 on 1 May. She stayed up there for four nights to acclimatize, however, decided to abandon the expedition afterwards as she did not want to go through the Icefall again. She left BC on 7 May.

  Dodhia, who never intended to climb Nuptse but was on the permit as she wanted to climb to Everest's C2, reached BC. She was too slow on Lobuche East and Brice thought it would be dangerous to send her through the Khumbu Icefall.

  Tait never intended to climb Nuptse either. He summited Everest on 10 May and left BC on 12 May.

  Brice was the expedition leader and was only on the Nuptse permit to be able to stay at BC. He never intended to climb Nuptse.

  Oxygen:

  Nobody used oxygen, apart from Ellen Miller from C3 to the top and then to about 7000m. She then gave her oxygen to her Sherpa Ngima, who was not feeling well and he descended from there to C2.


expid: PUTH13103
peakid: PUTH
year: 2013
route1: NE Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Diego Wellig
sponsor: Swiss Putha Hiunchuli 2013
countries: Argentina
bcdate: 2013-05-08
smtdate: 2013-05-19
termdate: 2013-05-16
termnote: Abandoned at 6320m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(08/05,4980m),C1(10/05,5480m),C2(11/05,6320m),xxx(19/05,6320m)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  On 12 May in the morning after thunderstorm night, decided to come back to BC. Just 3 days left, with bad weather forecast coming. Climb was over on the 13 May. Back the day after in Kathmandu.

  Sherpas: 
    Lale Sherpa
    Nima Sherpa
    Tshiring Sherpa
    Norbu Sherpa


expid: PUTH13102
peakid: PUTH
year: 2013
route1: NE Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Heinrich Gruber
sponsor: Holiday Expedition to Putha Hiunchuli
countries: Italy
bcdate: 2013-05-09
smtdate: 2013-05-17
termdate: 2013-05-19
termnote: Abandoned at 7050m due to exhausiton of Mosheimer
campsites: BC(09/05,4950m),C1(11/05,5450m),C2(15/05,6000m),C3(16/05,7050m),xxx(17/05,7050m)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  The foreign climbers were a mountain guide (Gruber) and his client (Mosheimer) whose ambition was to reach an altitude of 7000m.

  They reached C1 on 11 May, but immediately went back to BC. On the 14th, they climbed from BC to C1 and slept there; on the 15th they pitched C2, and on the 16th they made C3 at 6300m.

  With their two Sherpas, they went up from C3 on 17 May at 11:00 am and an hour later they arrived at 7050m. It was cloudy and very windy, and Mosheimer was tired. Now that he had achieved his ambition, he decided to turn around. During their descent, they stopped from time to time for ten minutes while the wind briefly dispersed the low clouds; they did this about six times. They returned to C3 at about 4:30 pm that day and were back in BC the next day.

  They left BC on 19 May in a helicopter that flew them to Dunai, and on the following day it took them to Pokhara and Kathmandu.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Sherpa, 29/12/72, Najing, Garma-3, Solu
    Thirendra (Thiren) Yakha, 2/3/72, Khuwapok-2, Dhankuta


expid: TLNG13101
peakid: TLNG
year: 2013
route1: W Face (to 6600m)
route2: NW Pillar (up); W Face (down)
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Zdenek Hruby
sponsor: Talung Nepal 2013
ascent2: 4th
approach: See route notes
bcdate: 2013-05-01
smtdate: 2013-05-19
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2013-05-21
achievment: 1st ascent of NW Pillar
agency: Iceland Trekking
campsites:
  BC(01/05,5100m),ABC(07/05,5400m),Biv1(15/05,6000m),Biv2(16/05,6350m),Biv3(17/05,6700m),Biv4(18/05,7000m),Smt(19/05),Biv5(19/05,6600m)

routememo:
  The team made their way to Talung base camp by flying to Bhadrapur and trekking to Taplejung, Sukhetar, Lelep, Ghunsa, Mirgin La, Tseram, Yalung Glacier and the area of Kangchenjungaj's base camp for its normal SW Face route. (Talung is due south of Kangchenjunga).

  This two-man team had no climbing Sherpas, no fixed camps, no bottled oxygen,; the two members always climbed together in pure alpine style. They achieved the first ascent of Talung's North Face by a line they pioneered on the left side of, but close to, the NW Pillar.

  But first they went to the already-climbed route, the West Face, in order to acclimatize and to know the route if they decided to descend that way. They climbed on the face from 3 to 5 May to 6700m. Next, they made an aborted attempt to climb their new line from ABC on 7 May, but they ascended only 300m and retreated to BC because Holeck had stomach trouble.

  Finally to their goal, a line on or near the NW Pillar. On 14 May, they moved from BC to ABC, and on the 15th they began their ascent via their new line by setting out from ABC at 5:00 am. They arrived at the base of the pillar at 5:30 am and started climbing hard ice mixed with rock on the left side of the pillar. They found a relatively good place for their first bivouac at 6000m at 7:00 pm and spent the night there.

  On the next morning, the 16th, they were tired from their first day's exertions and started to climb slightly late, at 7:00am. They found a way through seracs and crevasses as they moved up, a little farther to the left of the pillar. They stopped climbing at 2:00 pm at 6350m, the only good place they could find for their second bivouac.

  On the 17th at a bit after 7:00 am they started up an icy ramp with no snow covering it but more rock mixed with the ice. It was well after 7:00 pm when they stopped at 6700m at their third bivouac. That night a strong wind was moving snow from the head wall.

  The next morning's start was even later than usual: it was only at 8:30 am that they began moving up and making a slight traverse to the right as they climbed above the top of the pillar on ice and rock. Now some of the rock was falling and it destroyed Zednek's helmet. They had gained only 300 vertical meters that day when they made their fourth bivouac at 7:30 pm.

  Finally they reached the summit at noon on the following day, 19 May. They started to climb at 7:30 am in a light wind up a snow field 150m high, then a head wall 100m high of mixed rock and ice, and lastly 100 more meters up the NW Ridge, which was not steep, to the top. They had a clear view of Kangchenjunga and Yalung Kang and to the southeast to Kabru. There was no wind now, but clouds were coming in bring the next days clouds cover.

  The men decided they should come down the West Face: it would not be possible to descend their pillar without fixed rope. They went down to 6600m, the high point they had reached during their acclimatization. They arrived here at about 6:30 pm and made their fifth bivouac. The next day they were back in BC at noon. And the day after, the 21st, they left on their return journey to Kathmandu.


expid: TSAR13101
peakid: TSAR
year: 2013
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Goetz Wiegand
sponsor: Saxon Himalaya Expedition 2013
countries: Romania
bcdate: 2013-05-02
smtdate: 2013-05-26
termdate: 2013-05-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to difficulty finding route and hot sun melting rope and fixing points
campsites: BC(02/05,5300m),xxx(26/05,6100m)
agency: Multi Adventure
routememo:
  Just reaching BC was an undertaking: on 10 May they took a bus to Beni, then another bus to Darbang. On the 12th they set out on their trek to BC via the Myagdi Khola, around the west end of Dhaulagiri I to Dhaulagiri BC and French Pass, and north into the Hidden Valley to BC. They established BC on 21 May in Hidden Valley on the west side of Tashi Kang, a 6386m peak southwest of Tsartse.

  On the 23rd they began searching for the best approach to their intended route on the South Ridge. They stayed in BC during the following few days while they fixed ropes for access to their mountain. On the 26th they finished fixing the face to a col at 6100m.

  They had reached the Col at 2 pm and decided it was then too late to proceed farther. So back to BC. The next day, the 27th, they rested -- while a warm sun melted the points where they had fixed rope. They decided to abandon the climb and left BC on 29 May. They had been unsuccessful on Tsartse the previous spring, and now they said were leaving the mountain for good.

  Their trekking route away from BC was down Hidden Valley and across the pass to Marpha on the Kali Gandaki River. Then they took a bus to Beni and other buses to Pokhara and Kathmandu.


expid: DHA113102
peakid: DHA1
year: 2013
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Simone La Terra, Pawel Michalski
countries: Poland
smtdate: 2013-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to route difficulty (chose wrong path)
campsites: xxx(22/05,8100m)
agency: Prestige Adventure permit?
routememo:
  On 22 May at 2:30 am, Agnieska Bielecka, Robert Cholewa, Tamara Stys and Piotr Tomala and a Sherpa left C3 for the summit and reached 7400m. Because of the strong wind, Cholewa, Stys and Tomala retreated to C1, arriving there after 3:00 pm. But Bielecka continued trying for the top. She reached 8100m at 4:00 pm with the two members of a separate team, Pawel Michalski (also Polish) and Simone La Terra (Italian).

  The three stopped climbing at 8100m because they now realized that they had made the wrong choice to stay on the NE Ridge instead of traversing slightly onto the North Face as the best approach to the summit. They were back in C2 at 10:00 pm.


expid: LHOT13125
peakid: LHOT
year: 2013
route1: W Face
nation: Taiwan
leaders: Lee Hsiao-Shih
sponsor: Taiwanese Lhotse 2011
smtdate: 2013-05-18
smttime: 2000
campsites: BC(5350m),C1(6000m),C2(6400m),C3(7000m),C4(17/05,7800m),Smt(18/05)
agency: 7 Summits Adventure
routememo:
  At about 6 pm the same day, Kenton Cool had heard about the Taiwanese climber, Hsiao-Shih Lee, who was very unwell in his tent at Lhotse lower C4. Cool moved down to be with Lee and stayed with him the whole night. Lee passed away at about 7 am on 20 May.


expid: LHOT13123
peakid: LHOT
year: 2013
route1: S Col-W Face
nation: India
leaders: Chhanda Gayen
sponsor: First West Bengal Woman Expedition
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2013-04-12
smtdate: 2013-05-20
smttime: 0500
termdate: 2013-05-23
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-131-63)
agency: Loben Expeditions
primid: EVER13163
campsites:
  BC(12/04,5300m),C1(20/04,6100m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(15/05,7500m),C4(16/05,8000m),EVER.Smt(18/05),C4(18/05,8000m),Smt(20/05)

routememo:
  Gayen and Nga Tashi left C4 at 8:45 pm on 17 May for summit. They got to the top at 7 am on 18 May. They stayed on summit for 20 minutes, then returned to C4 where they arrived at 1 pm to sleep there.

  Lhotse:

  Gayen and Nga Tashi left C4 at 6:30 pm on 19 May for Lhotse summit and got there at 5 am on 20 May and stayed on summit for 10-15 minutes, then descended to C2 where they reached at 11:30 am. Next day 21 May they went down to BC.

  Sherpa:
    Nga Tashi Sherpa, 4/10/80, Yaphu 9, Makalu, Kangchenjunga


expid: LHOT13120
peakid: LHOT
year: 2013
route1: S Col-W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Garrett Madison
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2013
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 2013-04-14
smtdate: 2013-05-19
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2013-05-21
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-131-68)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
primid: EVER13168
campsites:
  BC(14/04,5350m),C1(21/04,5900m),C2(23/04,6500m),C3(15/05,7400m),C4(17/05,7900m),EVER.Smt(18,22/05),C4(18/04,7900m),Smt(19/05)

routememo:
  The large Everest summit party was made up of 12 members and an equal number of 12 Sherpas. The members were Edwin Bailey, Borchordt, Derue, Gonzalez, Grieder, Grigsby, Jones, Lowry, Madison, Moharrak, Sheedy and Wessels. They together with their Sherpas, set out for the top at 11:00 pm on the 17th, and all of them reached the summit almost together, at 7:45-7:55 am on 18 May. All descended to C4.

  Here, at midnight, five members and two Sherpas left C4 at the South Col, traversed over to the West Face of Lhotse and summited Lhotse at 7:00 am on the 19th. This party, Edwin Bailey, Grieder, Grigsby, Jones, Madison, Ang Pasang and Karma Sarke, then went down to C2 in the Western Cwm, where they joined the rest of the team's descending Everest summiters.

  Oxygen was used while climbing Everest by members from C3 to top to C3 and by Sherpas from C4 to top to C4. Those members and Sherpas who went over to Lhotse's summit, stayed on oxygen to Lhotse's top and down to C3.


expid: LHOT13126
peakid: LHOT
year: 2013
route1: S Col-W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Greg Vernovage
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Lhotse Expedition 2013
countries: Austria
bcdate: 2013-04-10
smtdate: 2013-05-19
smttime: 0715
termdate: 2013-05-15
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-131-81)
agency: Beyul Adventure
primid: EVER13181
campsites:
  BC(10/04,5325m),C1(19/04,6900m),C2(21/04,6700m),C3(29/04,7300m),C4(17/05,7900m),EVER.Smt(18),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(19/05)

routememo:
  The first Everest summit party was a small one who left for the top from C4 at 9:30 pm on 17 May. They were Hamill, Hasenstab, Heggland and Neil with seven Sherpas, Chhedar, Chewang Lendu, Pasang, Pemba, Sonam Dorje, Tashi Tsering and Thunang Lhomi (not a Sherpa). All summited between 5:55 and 7:30 am on the 18th. They were back in C4 between 3:30 and 5:00 that afternoon.

  Two of these summiters, Niel and Chhewang Lendu, went from C4 at the South Col that afternoon over to C4 for Lhotse, which had been established by expedition Sherpas while climbers were going to Everest's summit. The two then summited Lhotse the next day, 19 May.


expid: LHOT13127
peakid: LHOT
year: 2013
route1: S Col-W Face
nation: Canada
leaders: Tim Rippel
sponsor: Peak Freaks Everest Expedition 2013
countries: Australia
bcdate: 2013-04-08
smtdate: 2013-05-21
termdate: 2013-05-22
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-131-71)
agency: Senge Treks & Expeditions
primid: EVER13171
campsites:
  BC(08/04,5350m),C1(16/04,6050m),C2(22/04,6450m),C3(16/05,7100m),C4(17/05,7900m),EVER.Smt(19/05),C4(19/05,7900m),LHOT.C4(20/05,7800m),xxx(21/05,7900m)

routememo:
  Farebrother made a bid to summit Lhotse (after summiting Everest). After spending a night at the South Col (C4), Farebrother, Tashi Thundu and Fur Temba went on the 20th from the Col to set up a camp at 7800m for their Lhotse C4 push to the Lhotse's summit. Farebrother and Tashi Thundu set out from Lhotse C4 at about 1:00 am on May 21, climbed for about one hour, but then turned around because of serious rock fall. The descended to C2 for the night and next day, the 22nd, were in BC.


expid: EVER13101
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Dawa Steven Sherpa, Asian Trekking Staff
sponsor: Asian Trekking Eco-Everest Expedition 2013
countries: Argentina, Austria, Brazil, Canada, India, Norway, Poland, UK, USA
bcdate: 2013-04-14
smtdate: 2013-05-18
smttime: 0845
termdate: 2013-05-28
campsites: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(6000m),C2(6400m),C3(7300m),C4(7900m),Smt(18-19,21-22/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  The Asian Trekking Eco Everest expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-4 climbers each). Asian Trekking provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Udo Ebner (Austria)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(19/04,6000m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3(29/04,7300m),
         C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(19/05)
  Left:  21/05/2013
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success (7:30 am)

  Team left South Col at 7:30 pm. Perfect weather conditions. They summited at 7:30 am and stayed 45 minutes on the summit and descended to C4 where they arrived at 1 pm. When Ebner noticed that Barnabas Borbely (another Asian Trekking client) had taken his satellite phone to C2, Ebner also decided to go to C2 as he needed to ring his wife.

  Ebner and Phura Nuru arrived at C2 at 11 pm. On 20 May they descended to BC.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to summit to C4 by Ebner
    Taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 by Phura Nuru

  Sherpa:
    Phura Nuru, Thami, Khumbu, 30/10/82 [from Tesho, 28/6/85]


  Doug Scarborough (USA)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: 
  Left:  24/05/2013
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success (5:40 am)

  Summit team reacehd South Col at 2 pm on 20 May. Scarborough opted to have two nights there as he wanted to rest long enough before his summit attempt.

  They left C4 at 7 pm on 21 May. Weather was snowing and windy. There was nobody else on the route when they left. Straightforward climb. Clear summit, views and wind had died down. The summited at 5:40 am and stayed 25 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 1 pm. They stayed the night and descended to C2, the following day. On 24 May they descended to BC.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C2 to summit to C2 by Scarborough
    Taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 by Sherpas

  Sherpas:
    Ngima Dorje (Nima Dorje) Thami, Khumbu, 31/8/84
    Phurba (Ang Phurba) (Phurte, Khumbu), 1958


  Andrzej Wojda (Poland)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(19/04,6000m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3(29/04,17/05,7300m),
         xxx(17/05,7300m)
  Left:  21/05/2013
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned at 7300m due to chest infection

  On the summit attempt, Wojda reached C3 on 17 May. He was suffering from a chest infection and when it had not improved on 18 May, he decided to descend and abandon the expedition. He descended to C2 on 19 May and to BC on 20 May.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used to sleep at C3 by Wojda


  Nima Namgyal (Nepal)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(19/04,6000m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3(29/04,7300m),
         C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(19/05)
  Left:  28/05/2013
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success (7:30 am)

  Dr. Nima Namgyal spent two nights at the South Col. He was aiming for the 17th as a summit day, but it was too windy.

  Dr. Nima and Ngawang Kalden left the South Col at 7:30 pm on 18 May. Ngawang Kalden turned around at the Balcony due to fatigue. He had been hit by a rock on the head on the Lhotse Face on 5th May and was flown to Kathmandu for treatment. He came back to BC after 5 days, but was obviously not acclimatized well enough acclimatized to make it to the summit.

  Dr. Nima carried on to the summit. Perfect weather conditions. He stayed about 45 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where he arrived at 10:30 pm. On 20 May he descended to BC.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C2 to summit to C4 by Nima Namgyal
    Taken and used from C4 to high point to C4 by Ngawang Kalden

  Sherpa:
    Ngawang Kalden, 21/5/1991, Khumjung, Khumbu


  Natalia Garcia (Argentina)
  Stephan Thodesen (Norway)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(19/04,6000m),C2(23/04,6400m),xxx(23/04,6400m)
  Left:  21/05/2013
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Abandoned at 6400m due to personal reasons (in-fighting)

  Garcia and Thodesen were a couple and argued a lot. On 30 April they were fighting so hard (she punched him) that Dawa Steven Sherpa asked them to leave the expedition.


  Carlos Santalena (Brazil)
  Carlos Eduardo Elizeu Canellas (Brazil)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(18/04,6000m),C2(19/04,6400m),C3(19/05,7300m),
         C4(20/05,7900m),xxx(21/05,8100m)
  Left:  24/05/2013
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 8100m due to cold and frozen eye

  Team left C4 at 7 pm on 20 May. Canellas was climbing without oxygen. When they reached the Balcony at about 8100m at midnight, Canellas eye was sore due to the cold (it had happened to him before) and he decided to turn around at about midnight. As Santalena was his guide he turned back with him.

  They descended to C4, where they arrived at about 3 am. They spent the night at C4, descended to C2 on 22 May and to base camp on 23 May.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to high point to C3 by Santalena
    Canellas did not use oxygen
    Taken and used from C4 to high point to C4 by Pasang Rita

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Rita, Thamo, Khumbu, 1/7/1977


  Rodrigo Raineri (Brazil)
  Joel Kriger (Brazil)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(18/04,6000m),C2(19/04,6400m),C3(19/05,7300m),
         C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(21/05)
  Left:  24/05/2013
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success (10:10 am)

  Summit team left South Col at 10:40 pm. Weather was calm and clear. When Kriger reached the Balcony at 8100m he felt too tired to carry on. Many people on the route. At 7 am there was a traffic jam. Straightforward climb. They spent two hours on the summit, then descended to C4 where they arrived at 4:30 pm. On 22 May to C2 and 23 May to base camp.

  Kriger [and Shera Gyalgen] left South Col at 7 pm. They reached the Balcony at about 10 pm, but Kriger's goggles froze and he was tired, so he decided to turn back. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 11 pm. Raineri thinks that Gyalgen had pushed Kriger too hard and that he was tired. They slept at C4 and descended to C2 the following day. BC on 23 May.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to summit to C3 by members
    Taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 by Sherpas

  Sherpas:
    Sonam Tashi, Khumjung, 3/12/1971
    Shera Gyalzen


  Barnabas Borbely (UK)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(19/04,6000m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3(29/04,7300m),
         C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(19/05)
  Left:  21/05/2013
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success (8:20 am)

  Team left South Col at 7:30 pm. Perfect weather conditions. Summited at 8:20 and stayed 45 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where he arrived at 11 pm. On 20th they descended to BC.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to summit to C4 Borbely
    Taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 by Pemba Tshering

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Tshering (Maila), Khumjung, Khumbu, 06/08/86


  Horacio Cunietti (Argentina)
  Horacio Galanti (Argentina)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(19/05,6000m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(27/04,7300m),
         C4(17/05,7900m),Smt(19/05)
  Left:  22-23/05/2013
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success (7:00 am)

  Summit team reached South Col at 2 pm on 17 May. It was very windy and they had problems keeping their tent down. At 8 pm they decided not to go to the summit on 18 May as it was too windy. 

  They stayed another day and left South Col at 7:30 pm on 18 May. Perfect weather conditions. There were about 40 people on the route and the progress was very slow, but straightforward climb. They summited at 7:00 am and stayed about 1-1/2 hours on the summit. Galanti made a mobile-banking transaction for Standard Chartered Bank. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 1 pm.

  On 20 May they descended to C2 and on 21 May they went to BC.

  Galanti left BC on 22 May; Cunietti left BC on 23 May.

  Oxygen Used:
    Taken and used from C3 to summit to C3 by Galanti and Cunietti
    Taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 by Sherpas

  Sherpas:
    Mingma (Ang Mingma), Yilajung, Khumbu, 21/2/68 (with Galanti)
    Lama Phurba, Thamo, Khumbu, 27/6/58 (with Cunietti)


  Ramlal Sharma (India)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(19/04,6000m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3(29/04,7300m),
         C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(21/05)
  Left:  24/05/2013
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success (6:00 am)

  Summit team left C4 at 7 pm. Weather was good with many people on the route. They spent about half an hour on the summit and descended to C4, where they stayed the night.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to summit to C4 by Ramlal
    Taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 by Sherpas

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Rita (Pa Rita), 17/7/74, Yilajung, Khumbu.
    Phurba Sherpa, (2029/4/13) 28/7/72, Gaurishankar-3, Dolakha


  Anita Devi (India)
  Kanta Manu Devi (India)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(19/04,6000m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3(29/04,7300m),
         C4(17/05),Smt(18,21/05)
  Left:  21/05/2013
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success (8:45 am, 5:15 am)

  18 May summit team left C4 at 9:10 pm on 17 May. Very windy night, but after 12 pm when they had reached the Balcony, the wind died down and made the summit manageable. They reached South Summit at 5:40 am with little wind. Anita and Lhakpa Nuru summited at 8:45 am and spent about one hour on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 12:57 pm. On 19th descent to C2 and 20th to BC.

  21 May summit team left C4 at 7 pm. Kanta Manu and Pasang Temba summited at 5:15 am and spent about 1/2 hour on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 1 pm.

  Oxygen used:
    Taken and used from C3 to summit to C4 by Anita & Kanta Manu Devi
    Taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 by Sherpas

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Nuru, 18/1/1991, Khumjung, Khumbu (with Anita)
    Pasang Temba, 27/1/1970, Thami, Khumbu (with Kanta)


  Loveraj Singh Dharmshaktu (India)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(17/04,5350m),C1(21/04,6000m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(27/04,7300m),
         C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(21/05)
  Left:  25/05/2013
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success (6:00 am)

  Summit team left C4 on 20 May at 9:30 pm. Many people there and perfect weather.  Spent 1/2 hour on summit, then descended to C4 where they arrived at 10 am. On 22 May to C2, BC on 23 May.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to summit to C3 by Dharmshaktu
    Taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 by Sherpa

  Sherpa:
    Ki Dorjee, (12/11/2039) 24/12/83, Gudel-9, Solu


  Arunima Sinha (India)

  Name:  Tata Steel Everest Expedition 
  Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(19/04,6000m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3,C4(20/04,7900m),
         Smt(21/05)
  Left:  24/05/2013
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success (10:55 am)

  Team summited at 10:55 am on 21 May.

  First female amputee (leg) to summit Everest.

  Sherpas:
    Nima Kanchha
    Pemba Tshering, Khumjung


  Sushen Mahato (India)

  Name:  Tata Steel Everest Expedition 
  Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(19/04,6000m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3,C4(18/04),7900m),
         Smt(19/05)
  Left:  22/05/2013
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success (7:00 am)

  Team left South Col at 7:30 pm on 18th. Perfect weather conditions. Straightforward climb. Stayed on the summit for one hour and descended to C4, where they arrived at 1 pm. On 20th to C2 and 21st BC.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to summit to C4 by Mahato
    Taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 by Phura Jangbu

  Sherpa:
    Phura Jangbu


  Allan Johnson (Canada)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(19/04,6000m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3(29/04,7300m),
         C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(19/05)
  Left:  25/05/2013
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success (4:45 am)

  Summit team first tried for 18 May, but Johnson turned back below the Balcony as he wasn't feeling well. On 18 May he left 8 pm. Weather good but windy. He summited at 4:45 am and stayed 1 hour on summit, then descended to C4 at 10:30 am. 20 May to C2, 21 May to BC.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C2 to summit to C2 by Johnson
    Taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 by Sherpa

  Sherpas:
    Tenzing Dorje, Phortse, Khumbu, 19/11/70


expid: EVER13102
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dawes Eddy, Asian Trekking Staff
sponsor: Asian Trekking International Everest Expedition 2013
countries: Austria, China, Japan
approach: Kodari->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2013-04-15
smtdate: 2013-05-19
smttime: 0500
termdate: 2013-05-26
campsites: BC(15/04,5100m),ABC(19/04,6400m),C1(04/05,7000m),C2(17/05,7700m),C3(18/05,8300m),Smt(19-20/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  The Asian Trekking International Everest expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1 climber each). Asian Trekking provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Dawes Eddy (USA)

  Name:  None
  Camps: BC(15/04,5100m),ABC(19/04,6400m),C1(04/05,7000m),xxx(17/05,7200m)
  Left:  21/05/2013
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 7200m due to sinus infection

  Due to sinus infection, Dawes had to give up his summit attempt and return to ABC the same day.

  Oxgyen Use:
    Taken and used from C1 to high point to C1

  Sherpa:
    Phurba Namgyal, Beding, Dolakha, 7/2/86


  John Tsang (Hong Kong)

  Name:  None
  Camps: BC(15/04,5200m),ABC(19/04,6400m),C1(04/05,7000m),C2(17/05,7700m),
         C3(18/05,8300m),Smt(19/05)
  Left:  24/05/2013
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success (5:00 am)

  Team left C3 at 11 pm on 18 May. Weather was calm and clear. There were about 10 other people on the summit. They spent about 45 minutes on the summit and descended to C1, where they arrived at 3:30 pm.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from 7100m to top to 7100m by Tsang
    Taken and used from 7700m to top to 7700m by Pasang Dawa

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Dawa, Khumjung, 16/6/80


  Yoshiharu Nakamura (Japan)

  Name:  None
  Camps: BC(15/04,5100m),ABC(15/04,6400m),C1(04/05,7000m),C2(18/05,7700m),
         C3(19/05,8300m),Smt(20/05)
  Left:  22/05/2013
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success (7:25 am)

  Team left C3 at 9 pm on 19 May. Weather was calm and clear. They spent about 45 minutes on the summit and descended to C1, where they arrived at 4:30 pm and spent the night. The following day they descended to ABC.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from 7700m to top to 7700m by Nakamura
    Taken and used from 8300m to top to 8300m by Gyaluk

  Sherpa:
    Gyaluk (Gyalu Lama), Patle, Okhaldhunga, 21/8/75


  Zoltan Benedek (Austria)

  Name:  Solo and Doppelpack to Everest
  Camps: BC(16/05,5300m),ABC(19/05,6400m),C2.5(21/05,7900m),xxx(22/05,8700m)
  Left:  26/05/2013
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned at 8700m due to too cold and cold feet

  On 21 May Benedek left ABC at 7 am. He reached his high camp at 8 pm. Weather was windy. He rested there until 10 pm and started his summit attempt. He reached 8700m at 7 am. At that time the wind had picked up again. He was feeling too cold and turned back and descended to ABC where he arrived at 5 pm. He was completely exhausted.

  Oxygen: Not used
  Sherpa: None


expid: MAKA13112
peakid: MAKA
year: 2013
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Georgia
leaders: Gia Tortladze, Asian Trekking Staff
sponsor: Asian Trekking International Makalu Expedition 2013
countries: Belgium, Colombia, India, USA
approach: Tumlingtar->Makalu BC
bcdate: 2013-04-15
smtdate: 2013-05-22
termdate: 2013-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 8200m due to lack of fixed rope
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(15/04,5000m),ABC(17/04,5600m),C1(27/04,6100m),C2(28/04,6500m),C3(20/05,7300m),C4(21/05,7500m),xxx(22/05,8200m)

routememo:
  The Asian Trekking International Makalu expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1 climber each). Asian Trekking provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Gia Tortladze (Georgia)

  Camps: BC(15/04,5000m),ABC(17/04,5600m),C1(27/04,6100m),C2(28/04,6500m),
         C3(20/05,7300m),C4(21/05,7500m),xxx(22/05,8200m)
  Left:  25/05/2013
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 8200m due to long, no fixed rope, too icy

  On 21 May Tortladze left at 8 pm with other Asian Trekking members. Weather good, but windy from sunrise on. When they reached end of fixed rope the team decided to turn back. He descended to C4. He descended to C2, where he arrived at 5 pm. On 23 May to BC.

  Sherpa:
    Premba Tamang


  Will Cross (USA)

  Camps: BC(15/04,5000m),ABC(17/04,5600m),C1(25/04,6200m),C2(19/05,19/05,6700m),xxx
  Left:  25/05/2013
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 6700m due to breathing problem

  Cross reached C2 during first acclimatization rotation on 26 April (only tagged it) and was feeling fine. When he went back for the summit attempt on 19 May, he was struggling to get to C2 as he had difficulties breathing. He spent the night on oxygen and descended to BC the next morning.

  He was evacuated by helicopter from BC on 25 May.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used at C2 for sleeping by Cross

  Sherpas:
    Nawang Tenzing (Nawangle), 1/2/1960, Phortse, Khumbu


  Tonya Clement (USA)

  Camps: BC(17/04,5000m),ABC(19/04,5600m),C1(27/04,6100m),C2(28/04,6500m),
         C3(20/05,7400m),C4(21/05,7600m),xxx(22/05,8200m)
  Left:  25/05/2013
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 8200m due to oxygen system failed, end of fixed rope

  Clement left with rest of Asian Trekking team at 8 pm on 21 May. The weather was perfect. However, when she arrived at the end of the fixed rope, she decided that it would be too dangerous to carry on, so she turned back at 5 am. On top of that she was having problems with her oxygen bottle (it was leaking). She descended to C2, arrived at 5 pm. On 23 May to BC.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to high point C3

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Tshering, (17/7/76), Khumjung-3, Khumbu


  Fernando Gonzalez-Rubio (Colombia)

  Camps: BC(15/04,5000m),ABC(17/04,5600m),C1(27/04,6200m),C2(28/04,6700m),
         C3(20/05,7400m),C4(21/05,7600m),xxx(22/05,8200m)
  Left:  25/05/2013
  Hired: 1?
  Term:  Abandoned at 8200m due to end of fixed rope

  On 21 May Gonzalez with other Asian Trekking members left at 8 pm. Weather was good until sunrise, then 50 km/hr and it got very cold. The rest of team descended at 7 am at end of fixed rope. Gonzalez carried on with the David Goettler team, but turned back as he was tired and got cold feet. He descended to BC arriving at 5 pm.

  Team left C4 at 8:30 pm on 21 May. Sherpas were fixing lines. Weather was good, a bit windy (40 km/h). On way to French couloirs they found out that the Sherpas only had 40m of rope left. Nima Gyalgen said that they would need another 200m of rope and they decided that it would be too dangerous to carry on. 

  They turned back at 5:30 am. Vajpai descended to BC, where he arrived at 2 pm. Fernando arrived at 5 pm, Krishna arrived at 10:30 pm.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C2 to high point to C2 by Vajpai, Krishnaa
    From C4 to high point to C4 by Sherpas
    Fernando no oxygen

  High Point by Gonzalez and Patil, Nawangle (ex-w Cross), Nima Gyalgen (w Gonzalez?), Tshering Phinjo (w Vajpai), Prema Tamang (w Tortadze), Pasang Namgyal (w Patil), Lhakpa Tshering Sherpa (w Clement)


  Dominique Dejose (Belgium)

  Camps: BC(15/04,6000m),ABC(17/04,5600m),C1(27/04,6100m),C2(28/04,6300m),
         xxx(28/04,6300m)
  Left:  25/05/2013
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 6300m due to mountain difficulty

  On 1st rotation, Dejose reached C2 and slept there. When back at BC he decided that mountain was too hard for him and he would not carry on. He stayed at BC to wait for fellow Asian Trekking climbers.

  Dejose also said that he didn't feel comfortable with Asian Trek services.


  Krushnaa Patil (India)

  Camps: BC(15/04,5000m),ABC(17/04,5600m),C1(27/04,6100m),C2(28/04,6500m),
         C3(20/05,7400m),C4(21/05,7600m),xxx(22/05,8200m)
  Left:  25/05/2013
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 8200m due to end of fixed rope, worried that descent 
         would be difficult

  On 21 May Patil left C4 at 8 pm with rest of Asian Trekking team. When she reached end of fixed ropes, the team decided to turn back as it was too icy to carry on without fixed rope. She descended to C2, arrived at 2 pm. At 6 pm she continued to BC and arrived there at 6 pm.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Namgyal, 25/11/1972, Khumjung, Khumbu


  Arjun Vajpai (India)

  Camps: BC(15/04,5000m),ABC(17/04,5600m),C1(24/04,6200m),C2(25/04,6700m),
         C3(20/05,7400m),C4(21/05,7600m),xxx(22/05,8200m)
  Left:  25/05/2013
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 8200m due to not enough rope

  Team together with other Asian Trekking clients, left C4 at 8:30 pm on 21 May. Sherpas were fixing lines. Weather was good, but pretty windy, about 40km/h. On way to French couloirs they found out that the Sherpas only had 40m of rope left, which was not enough to fix all the way to the summit. They decided that it would be too dangerous to carry on and turned back at 5:30 am.

  Vajpai descended to BC, where he arrived at 2 pm.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C2 to high point to C2 by Vajpay and Krishna
    From C4 to high point to C4 by Sherpas

  Sherpa:
    Tshering Phinjo, Khumjung, 29/04/1973


expid: EVER13119
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Zhang Wei
sponsor: Yang's Explorer Everest 2013
bcdate: 2013-04-19
smtdate: 2013-05-19
smttime: 0515
termdate: 2013-05-21
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-131-08)
campsites: BC(19/04,5350m),C1(26/04,6000m),C2(27/04,6400m),C3(17/05,7300m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  19 Apr  5350m
  C1  26 Apr  6000m
  C2  27 Apr  6400m
  C3  17 May  7300m
  C4  18 May  7900m
  Smt 19 May  by Dong, Lin, Long, Shang, Sun, Wei Jing, Yu, Zhang Xiang-Hai, Zhang Xiao-Fan and 12(?) Sherpas between 5:15 am and 10:30 am.

  Summit team left C4 between 7:30 pm and 8:30 pm on 18 May. Straightforward climb. They stayed for about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived between 3 pm and 6 pm. Long, Zhang Xiang-Hai, Jing Wei and Sun descended to C2 the same day.

  On 21 May everyone was back at BC.

  Cao reached C4 on 18 April; she was exhausted and descended back to C2 on 19 April.

  Zhang Wei was the overall expedition leader for Everest and Lhotse (he climbed only on Lhotse).


expid: CHOY13102
peakid: CHOY
year: 2013
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Christopher Boardman
sponsor: Snowy Horizon Cho Oyu Expedition 2013
countries: Georgia, Spain, Sweden
approach: Kodari->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2013-04-16
smtdate: 2013-05-05
termdate: 2013-05-08
termnote: Abandoned at 7150m due to bad weather and lack of fixed rope above C2
campsites: CBC(16/04,4900m),IC(18/04,5300m),ABC(19/04,5700m),C1(27/04,6400m),C2(05/05,7150m),xxx(05/05,7150m)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  Two Spanish members of the expedition Cestero and Martin went up to C2 on 5 May. They could not continue their climb as there were no fixed ropes above C2. Ichaso went up to approx 6700m. He was tired.

  Boardman suffered from his left ear infection and became very weak during his acclimatization period. So he gave up trying again to climb. He went to 6800m on April 29 with Karma Sherpa.

  Sherpa:
    Karma Sherpa

  Lingvall, Matsson, Dawa and Pasang went up to C2 on 5 May. When they realized that there was no fixed line above C2, they decided to give up further climbing.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Gyalzen Sherpa, (10/6/2036) 26/9/1979, Yaphu-9
    Pasang Gyalzen Sherpa, (15/6/2021) 30/9/1964, Makalu-9

  On 29 April Tshering Dorje and Masters left C1 at 9:30 am (CST) to move up to C2, however, when they reached 6900m at 1:30 pm, Masters was too tired to carry on and his body was telling him that it was time to stop. They descended to C1, where they spent the night and abandoned the expedition.

  Sherpa:
    Tshering Dorje (Tshiring Dorje), Mamerku, Chheskam, Solu, 12/10/1981


expid: EVER13126
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Neeraj Rana
sponsor: The Lawrence School (Sanawar) Everest Expedition 2013
bcdate: 2013-04-18
smtdate: 2013-05-21
smttime: 0426
termdate: 2013-05-26
othersmts: Summited Lobuche East on 2 May (2 members)
campsites: BC(18/04,5350m),C1(16/05,6100m),C2(17/05,6550m),C3(19/05,7000m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  The expedition was led by Neeraj Rana, who runs an Indian adventure company, Ocean to Sky, but its membership was composed entirely of schoolboys from The Lawrence School, Sanawar. It was under the benevolent eye of the Nepalese army's Chief of Army Staff, Gen. Gavrav S. J. B. Rana, who had himself attended the school. (In addition, the fathers of two Lawrence schoolboys were on a permit for Nuptse so they could accompany their sons to C2; they did not attempt to climb Nuptse, which would have been too difficult technically.)  With the schoolboys and Rana were eight Sherpas.

  The party arrived at BC on 18 April and spent a month acclimatizing, including a successful trip to the summit of Lobuche East on 2 May. Once the party actually started climbing Everest, they occupied one camp after the other almost daily and then summited.

  Rana and the schoolboys set out for the top on the 20th of May at 7:30 pm. They were Brar with Mingma Thinduk, Chahal with Mingma Dorchi, Grewal with Pasang Dorchi, Joneja with Ang Temba, Kaushik with Lhakpa, Singh with Ang Tendi, Sohal with Kalden Phura, and Rana with Ang Kami.

  Four of the climbers did not go all the way: Grewal got to 8200m, then had a chest pain so he and Pasang Dorchi turned back at about 10:00 pm. The Sherpa with Rana, Ang Kami, developed frostbite in his hands, and both men turned back at the South Summit at 6:50 am on 21 May.

  The remaining six members and their Sherpas reached the summit at different times, between 4:26 and 9:00 am on 21 May. They returned to C4 at different times, from 9:00 am to 4:30 pm.

  Oxygen was used by members from C3 to their high points and back to C3. Sherpas used it from C4 to high points to C4.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Kami, 27/5/87, Makalu-9, Kangch X1
    Ang Temba, 31/8/79
    Ang Tendi, 22/10/86, Waku-4, Solu, Manaslu X1
    Kalden Phura, 27/2/87, Pangboche, Everest X2
    Lhakpa, 25/12/91, Makalu-9, Everest X2, Makalu X1
    Mingma Dorchi, 18/8/87
    Mingma Thinduk, 22/2/84
    Pasang Dorchi, 26/9/81


expid: LHOT13128
peakid: LHOT
year: 2013
route1: S Col-W Face
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Dean Staples
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Lhotse Expedition 2013
countries: Sweden
bcdate: 2013-04-14
smtdate: 2013-05-22
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2013-05-24
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-131-09)
agency: Himalayan Guides
primid: EVER13109
campsites:
  BC(14/04,5350m),C1(24/04,6000m),C2(25/05,6400m),C3(16/05,7200m),C4,17/05,8000m),EVER.Smt(19-21/05),C4(21/05,8000m),Smt(22/05)

routememo:
  After summiting Everest, Staples and Stromstadt returned to C4, rested for 16 hours, then summited Lhotse at 10 am on May 22.


expid: EVER13129
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Olga Nabialek
sponsor: Snowy Horizon Everest Expedition 2013
approach: Lukla->Namche->Tengboche->Pheriche->Lobuche
bcdate: 2013-04-15
smtdate: 2013-05-16
termdate: 2013-05-20
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  Climbed along with Bradley and Wood team (also on Snowy Horizon permit)?

  Sherpas:
    Ngima?

  Bradley, Wood, Singi and Pemba started their summit push at 8:30 pm on 16 May from C4. When they reached 8300m they had to stop due to high wind then returned C4 around 12:30 pm on 17 May. Next day 18 May went down to C2 and on 19 May to BC.


expid: MAKA13113
peakid: MAKA
year: 2013
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Yang Chun-Feng
sponsor: Chinese Makalu Expedition 2013
bcdate: 2013-04-05
smtdate: 2013-04-24
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2013-04-30
campsites: BC(05/04,5000m),ABC(07/04,5650m),C1(11/04,6600m),C2(15/04,7400m),Smt(24/04)
accidents: Liu Xiang-Yang fell to his death above C2 (est 7600m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  On the 23rd of April, Yang, Liu, Abramczyk and Gheichisaz plus 3 Sherpas: [Lhakpa] Dendi Sherpa, Pechhumbe Sherpa and a third one (Abramczyk's) started at 2:30 pm from C2 for a summit push. 

  At 7 pm, David Abramczyk, his Sherpa and Pechhumbe turned back from 7600m back to C2 for sleeping. 

  On the 24th of April, Yang, Liu, Geichisaz with Dendi Sherpa after climbing all night summited at 9:30 am, then descended back to Makalu La at C2. Between 7700m and 7800m on descent, at the beginning of a long section of blue ice, Liu fell to his death, slipping before Yang's very eyes. Gheichisaz preceding them on descent, did not see the accident. Yang and Dendi Sherpa arrived at 9 pm at C2 where they slept this night and one after, before reaching ABC on the 26th of April, then to Hillary BC on the 28th. 

  On the 30th of April, Yang was helicoptered with other teammates (Gheichisaz, Vickers, Aschwanden and Celikovic) back to Kathmandu. 

  Yang flys on the 3rd of May to Lukla, then Everest BC to help a Chinese expedition led by Xiang Hai-Zhang attempting Everest and Lhotse. He won't climb, staying at BC for help. 

  Oxygen:

  Yang used oxygen from C2 to summit only, then gave his remaining oxygen (30%) to his teammate Liu and didn't use it at all for descent.
   
  Liu used all his 3 bottles from C2 to summit, then used Yang's remnant oxygen for the descent until his accident.

  Dendi Sherpa used oxygen from C2 until summit, then used it again for 10 minutes on descent when his bottle was definitely empty.

  No fixed rope above Makalu La and C2. Approximately 1000m fixed by Sherpas.


  Azim Gheichisaz, Chun Feng-Yang, Xiang Yang-Liu and Lhapka Dendi were attempting to summit from the Makalu La and the team left on 22 April at 3:30 pm. They reached C4 site (7900m) at 7 pm. They saw that there were no fixed ropes and waited for about 3 hours for two Sherpas to fix some rope. As the Sherpas were not very good at it, Gheichisaz helped them. At about 10 pm Liu, Yang, Gheichisaz and Lhakpa Dendi carried on to the summit. Liu reached the false summit and rested while Gheichisaz and Yang carried on to the real summit summit, where they arrived at 9:30 am. 

  They descended to the Makalu La. Gheichisaz reached camp at about 3 pm. When after about one hour Yang Chun-Feng arrived, he told them that Liu had fallen near C4 and died. His body was not found.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from 7400m to summit by Sherpa and members.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Dendi, Gudel-9, Solu, 22/11/1974


  David Abramczyk - 8 Oct 1013

  Another thing I forgot to mention is that Liu did NOT bring his ice axe on his summit attempt. When we finished the traverse to Camp III from Camp II on Makalu La, I noticed that he only had ski poles and was not using his ice axe. I asked him where it was and he said he did not bring it. Since they took a long time fixing/finding ropes and it took them over 30 hours on the summit push, he was completely exhausted, which is why he couldn't summit and also the most likely reason for his death. My understanding, after speaking to Yang, he slipped and fell off the side of the mountain as they were nearing Camp II on their return. If he had his ice axe and self-arrested he might have made it.


expid: EVER13131
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Ravindra Kumar
sponsor: Indian Everest Expedition 2013
bcdate: 2013-04-17
smtdate: 2013-05-19
campsites: BC(17/04),C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(19/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Sikkim Express Press Release:

  Ravindra Kumar becomes first IAS officer to scale Mt Everest

  Posted on May 21, 2013 by iSikkim, Gangtok

  Ravindra Kumar, an IAS officer of 2011 batch belonging to Sikkim Cadre and presently a trainee officer under District Collector, East Sikkim and posted as Assistant Collector cum Executive Magistrate of East District, Gangtok has conquered the highest peak of the world, Mt Everest, on May 19.

  Kumar has become the first ever IAS Officer in India to scale the highest peak in the world. This was informed by Director of the First Summit Agency Mingma Sherpa to District Collector, East Sikkim Aunjaneya Kumar Singh.

  Kumar, one of the members of the State sponsored Mt Everest Expedition was dropped following controversy over selection, but later went on to scale the peak on his own.

  The Everester, Singh informed has also thanked the Chief Minister of Sikkim for his encouragement and all his seniors of All India Services of Sikkim Cadre who not only kept his moral high during the time of struggle but also helped him in getting a quick loan to arrange for his expenses when he was struggling for sponsors.

  The officer has started his mountaineering journey from Gangtok on April 6, and reached Kathmandu on the same day by road and airways. He was assisted in his expedition by the first Summit Agency of Nepal and its Director Mingma Sherpa.

  After competing administrative formalities and sorting out technical equipment for climbing at Kathmandu, he flied to Lukla, Nepal on April 9 and on the same day, started his journey on foot to reach base camp of Mt Everest on April 17 after 7 to 8 days of continuous journey on foot.

  After about three weeks of acclimatization scheduled above the base camp, he started the final expedition on May 15, 2013 to the highest peak and touched it on the morning of May 19.

  Ravindra, it is informed had done Basic Mountaineering courses as well as Advance Mountaineering Courses from Himalayan Mountaineering Institute Darjeeling and securing Grade "A" in both courses as a part of preparation for this expedition.

  His journey to Mt Everest is a part of his journey to quench his quest of taking a long journey from "the deepest sea to the highest mountain" as he has travelled to all the oceans including the deepest Pacific Ocean during his last job in shipping.

  After successful climb, Kumar has also become the first sea-farer to India to achieve this special distinction.

  Born and brought up in the Begusarai District of Bihar, Kumar is also known to be a brilliant student, adds a press release.


expid: EVER13133
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Chang-Ho
sponsor: Korean Dream Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2013
bcdate: 2013-04-20
smtdate: 2013-05-20
smttime: 0650
termdate: 2013-05-23
campsites: BC(20/04,5360m),C2(27/04,6450m),C3(04/05,7080m),C4(19/05,7090m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Four members and three Sherpas of the expedition "From 0 to 8848m" left C4 at 8 pm of 19 May. Leader Kim and co-climber Seo were without supplementary oxygen. Team member Jeon got to the top at 6:50 am on 20th May, An at 8 am, Kim at 9 am and Seo at 11:15 am. Each member stayed on summit for 5 minutes. Back to C4 Kim at 4:40 pm, An and Jeon 7 pm and Seo at 10:30 pm. An who is sharing tent with Seo realized that Seo was not feeling well and also not sleeping. An offered him to use oxygen but he refused to take it. Early morning around 5 am, An called Kim who was sleeping in another tent saying Seo is not feeling well. Kim immediately went to Seo's tent and found him unconscious. Kim tried all what he could do until 12 noon to bring Seo back to life, but he was not responding. Kim asked for help from Oh, another Korean climber on Lhotse with two Sherpas; they and 9 other Sherpas of Seven Summit Treks came up and took the body of Seo to C2 on 21 May before midnight. Kim and two members went down to C3 and on 22 May to BC. Seo's body was brought to BC on 23 May, then to Kathmandu by helicopter. The body was cremated at Swayambhu on 26 May in the presence of Seo's mother, younger brother and relatives.

  The expedition "From 0 to 8848" two members Kim and Seo started kayaking 156 km from Bakkhali, Ganga river at 0m (Indian Ocean) to Kolkata the altitude of 8m. From Kolkata same two members reached Tumlingtar (448m) Nepal, cycling 893 km passing through Berhampore (24m) Dalkhola, Ganges River (20m) and Bagdogra (Siliguri) Darjeeling, Biratnagar, Dharan. They entered Nepal via Kakarbhita on 30 March. All the way up from Indian Ocean, member Jeon followed the two members as surface coordinator. Two other members accompanied by camera crew flew from Kathmandu to Tumlingtar.

  Note: Seok, Yoon and Han were climbing separately as a different team. Only Seok summited.


expid: EVER13134
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Bangladesh
leaders: Mohammad Khaled Hossain
smtdate: 2013-05-20
smttime: 1030
campsites: Smt(20/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  The Daily Star (Bangladesh)

  Everest triumph ends in tragedy

  He conquered Mount Everest and did Bangladesh proud. But he could not get back to his beloved motherland to savour the triumph.

  Mohammed Khaled Hossain, 35, also known as Sajol Khaled, met his tragic end while descending from Everest on Monday. Exactly how he died could not yet be known but altitude played a part, reports AFP quoting Nepalese tourism officials.

  "We first got to know of his death from the media. Later, the Bangladesh embassy in Nepal confirmed the incident," said Shahdat Hossain Babu, Khaled's elder brother.

  Referring to some Nepalese individuals, Musa Ibrahim, the first Bangladeshi to scale Mount Everest, told The Daily Star that Khaled got to the peak between 10:00am and 11:00am on the day. The accident might have occurred a few hours after he had reached the summit.

  The Kathmandu Post, a leading daily in Nepal, reports Khaled lost his life at 8600 metres.

  Korean climber Ho-Seo, 34, also died on Monday, reports AFP, adding that Ho-Seo, who had reached the peak without supplemental oxygen, refused to put on an oxygen mask as suggested by Sherpa guides on his way back.

  Five other climbers have died at 8848 metres (29,029 feet) this season. Some 300 people perished trying to reach the summit in the last six decades. The bodies of some of them are still on the mountain.

  May is considered the best time for climbing the Nepalese Himalayas because of mild weather. Some 300 people reached the top of the Everest so far this year, according to AFP.

  Khaled was also a film-maker. He directed a film named Kajoler Dinratri.

  He went to Nepal last month. After receiving a permit from Seven Summit Treks Pvt Ltd, he set off for his mission to conquer Mt Everest.

  Earlier in May 2011, he went on an Mt Everest expedition through the north face of China’s Tibet border. But he could not climb beyond 23,000 feet, as he felt sick due to accumulation of liquid in his lungs.


expid: HIMJ12301
peakid: HIMJ
year: 2012
route1: SW Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Chang-Ho
sponsor: Korean Himjung Expedition 2012
ascent1: 1st
bcdate: 2012-09-29
smtdate: 2012-10-12
smttime: 0905
termdate: 2012-10-15
campsites: BC(29/09,4800m),Biv1(09/10,6050m),Biv(11/10,6770m),Smt(12/10)
agency: Seven Summit Treks?
routememo:
  After 4 days of rest at BC, on 9 Oct Kim and An moved up to their first bivy site at 6050m on the SW Face. On 10 Oct, the duo pushed the route further up the mountain, but were force to retreat to their 6050m bivy site when heavy fog moved in. On 11 Oct, the duo after 14 pitches reached a cave at 6770m where they set up their second bivouac. The following morning they continued on up and summited at 9:05 am.

  See the compete description in AAJ (2013).


expid: EVER13140
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Prem Kumar Singh
sponsor: Indian Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2013
bcdate: 2013-04-11
smtdate: 2013-05-19
smttime: 0710
termdate: 2013-05-22
othersmts: Attempted Lhotse (LHOT-131-29)
campsites: BC(11/04,5300m),C1(16/04,6000m),C2(21/04,6400m),C3(7200m),C4(18/05,7950m),Smt(19/05)
agency: 7 Summits Adventure
routememo:
  The Telegraph, Calcutta - 11 June 2013

  But youth trudges on to scale Everest, by Amit Bhelari

  "On top of the world. But tired and scared."

  This is how Prem Kumar Singh signed off a chat with a friend after coming down to the Mt Everest base camp a couple of days after a successful summit on May 19.

  Prem, the 23-year-old youth with roots in Chhapra, has only one dream: the "Seven Summits", as he describes himself in his Twitter account. Since his childhood, Prem — who idolises Reinhold Messner besides Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary — has been chasing the dream of scaling the world's highest peak (8848m) and on May 15, he made the final push from the base camp (5364m).

  The economics graduate of Delhi University told The Telegraph: "Of course, the expedition was not easy and you need to have strong will power to climb the height of 8848m. Mountaineering is not very popular in India so I had to cope with every situation — be it arranging funds or acclimatisation with adverse conditions in the Himalayas."

  The youth, whose ancestral home is at Manpushaula village under Ishwarpur block, added: "I was confident but to turn my dream into reality I had to do a lot of practice. First, I successfully scaled the Renok (5800m) in Sikkim in 2010 followed by a summit of Deo Tibba (6001m) in Himachal Pradesh. To gain more experience, I scaled Mt Satopanth (7075m) in Uttarakhand."

  About the Everest expedition, Prem, who completed his Class X from Sian Model School, Pasighat, Arunachal Pradesh, before moving on to Gurgaon where his parents are settled, said: "It was a joint expedition in which two other mountaineers — Stone Lee from Taiwan and Leila from Russia — took part. On March 23, we started our expedition from Lukla in Nepal."

  About the summit, Prem — guided by Rinjin Sherpa all along — said: "I left the base camp on May 15 for the final summit and reached the top at 7.10am on May 19. I left camp 3 for camp 4 at 8am on May 18 and after crossing the critical Yellow Band and Geneva Spur, I reached camp 4 at 2pm — the final rest before summit. From there, I left for the summit attempt in bitter cold using headlamps around 8pm. I crossed the infamous Balcony, Hillary Step and Last Ridge to reach the peak at 7.10am. I stayed there for 15 minutes, as I wanted to feel the surrounding in that strong chilly wind."

  Prem took 17 hours to return to camp 4 at 1pm on May 19. "Upon return to camp 4, we had planned to leave for camp 4 of Mt Lhotse (8516m) and climb it as well, doing the world's highest traverse and setting a world speed record in the process. But when I reached the Lhotse camp 4, I found my fellow climber Lee dead in the tent. He had died there of extreme exhaustion, so the plan to the Mt Lhotse was abandoned to bring Lee's body down. I was really disheartened by the incident and I came back to the base camp with a plan to return there next year," said Prem, who still considers himself an "amateur mountaineer."


expid: LHOT13129
peakid: LHOT
year: 2013
route1: S Col-W Face
nation: India
leaders: Prem Kumar Singh
sponsor: Indian Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2013
bcdate: 2013-04-11
smtdate: 2013-05-20
termdate: 2013-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to the death of Lee Hsiao-Shih
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-131-40)
routememo: Prem Kumar Singh abandoned at 7800m due to the death of Lee Hsiao-Shih.
agency: 7 Summits Adventure
primid: EVER13140
campsites:
  BC(11/04,5300m),C1(16/04,6000m),C2(21/04,6400m),C3(7200m),C4(18/05,8000m),EVER.Smt(19/05),LHOT.C4(20/05,7800m),xxx


expid: EVER13143
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Pemba Dorje Sherpa
sponsor: Climbing for Climate Justice
bcdate: 2013-05-06
smtdate: 2013-05-20
smttime: 0925
termdate: 2013-05-24
campsites: BC(06/05,5350m),C1(6000m),C2(15/05,6400m),C3(17/05,7200m),C4(19/05,7950m),Smt(20/05)
achievment: 1st double-amputee without the use of prosthetics
agency: Pemba Dorje Sherpa (Snowy Horizon pmt)
routememo:
  The Expedition under caption "Stop Pollution – Save the Earth and Disability is not an Inability" led by Pemba Dorje Sherpa had two Nepali and one Nepali-origin Canadian (double-amputee) members.

  Pemba Dorje, Gautam, Phurba and Suman left C4 at 7.30 pm of 19 May. Gautam was short-roped with Pemba Dorje and Phurba. The team got to the top at 9:25 am of 20 May and stayed on summit between 20 to 25 minutes. The team returned C4 at 6 pm. Next day while descending Gautam was heli-lifted from 7600m as he was exhausted,  to Kathmandu and rest of the climbers went down to C2 and the following day to BC.

  Kapur Shrestha had respiratory problem at BC. He was heli-lifted to Kathmandu on 7 May.

  Pemba Dorje supposed to go with Min Bahadur Sherchan (20/6/1931). Sherchan received climbing permit on 24 May. He flew to Tengboche by helicopter and horse rode to BC on 27 May. He suffered from high altitude sickness and left BC on 29 May.

  Oxygen: 
    Members from C3-summit-C3, Phurba C4-summit-C4, Pemba did not use


  From Snowy Horizon website:

  Congratulation to Mr. Sudarshan Gautam, Canadian Nepali, to become the first double amputee to climb the world’s highest mountain!!!

  Miss Olga Jadwiga Nabialek from Poland had led the Team of Snowy Everest Expedition South Face Spring-2013 during 2nd April till 6th June 2013 as a team leader. The Snowy Everest Expedition team was of eight people from different international community and Mr. Sudarshan Gautam (double amputee) was also one of them. The team except Mr. Sudarshan had first attempt to the summit on 16th May and due to unforeseen weather condition, they had to return back after approaching to the height of about 8500m from the balcony of Mt. Everest.

  Then, Mr. Gautam with his supporter Sherpas had attempt on 20th May 2013 early morning and reached to the top of Mt. Everest (8848m) at 9:00 am on Monday. Gautam, aged 30, had lost both his hands at the age of 14 in an accident. He was on a mission to spread the message that "disability is not inability."

  The Snowy Horizon had successfully concluded the whole project of Mt. Everest Expedition Spring 2013 comfortably; however the rate of success could not be reached higher due to unexpected weather condition at the time of attempting. We are still proud that we could keep our words for "Safety and Security is our prime Concern."


  From Rockandice.com

  Daring High Altitude Rescue on Everest Sets Records - 10-Jun-2013 By Brian Wright
   
  A high-altitude rescue team is setting new standards in the Himalayas this season, performing the highest altitude longline rescue ever completed. On May 19th, an elite rescue team successfully rescued a mountaineer from near Camp 3 at 23,000 feet (7000m) on Everest. The climber, a Nepalese born, naturalized Canadian citizen named Sudarshan Gautam, who is also a double-amputee after an accident flying a kite into overhead powerlines took both of his arms at 14 years of age, reached the summit but became extremely exhausted and severely dehydrated on the descent. The rescue helicopter, crewed by alpinists Maurizio Folini, Simone Moro and Armin Senoner, was called to make the rescue at "around 23,000 feet," which is right near the maximum altitude that a helicopter is able to fly. After a tricky and dangerous rescue, the team was able to successfully evacuate Gautam.


  Ministry of Tourism lists Shiva Bahadur Sapkota, Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa, and Ngima Dorje Tamang as summiters on 20 May.


expid: EVER13145
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Rupert Hauer
sponsor: Hauer Everest Expedition 2013
approach: Kodari->Nyalam->Xixabangma->Tingri
bcdate: 2013-05-07
smtdate: 2013-05-20
termdate: 2013-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 8700m due to assisting American snowblinded climber
othersmts: Summited Xixabangma
campsites: BC(07/05,5200m),ABC(10/05,6400m),C1(12/05,7000m),C2(18/05,7700m),C3(19/05,8300m),xxx(20/05,8700m)
accidents: Hauer slight frostbite on nose (has already healed)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  07 May  5200m
  ABC	10 May  6400m
  C1  11 May  7000m	
  C2  18 May  7700m
  C3  19 May  8300m	
  HPt 20 May  8700m by Hauer at 7 am (Nepali time).

  Hauer left C3 at 1 am on 20 May. He was alone and was climbing without supplemental oxygen. The weather was good and not windy at all. When he reached about 8700m at 7 am, he met a Sherpa and his American client, who was snowblind. The Sherpa asked Hauer to help him bring down the American, which he did and forced him to abandon his summit attempt. They descended to the North Col at 7000m, where they arrived at 10 pm. The following day Hauer descended to ABC.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


expid: SISN13101
peakid: SISN
year: 2013
nation: Nepal
leaders: Man Bahadur Khatri
ascent1: 1st
countries: USA
smtdate: 2013-05-26
campsites: Smt(26/05)
agency: Churen Himal Treks
routememo:
  From eTravel Press, Kathmandu (1 Sept 2013)

  A Nepali expedition team led by Man Bahadur Khatri successfully climbed Sisne Himal this spring. This is the maiden ascent on the 5911 meters peak that lies in Rukum district in the mid-western Nepal.

  Khatri is the first person from Rukum district to successfully climb Mt Everest.
  Along with Khatri, other members of the expedition team – Nilam Gurung, Amrit Sarki, Mulal Gurung, Binaya Jung Malla, Al Bahadur Khatri, Dhruba Bista and US climber Alonzo Lyons – also reached the summit of Sisne Himal.

  Though the government had opened Sisne Himal many years ago, this is the first time that men have stood on its summit. It is the tallest peak in Rukum distirct. Nepal Mountaineering Association and District Development Committee, Rukum, among others, had supported the expedition team.

  Locals believe the successful summit of Sisne Himal will attract more adventure seekers to the district in the coming days.


expid: TUKU13101
peakid: TUKU
year: 2013
route1: N Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Fabien Brusson
sponsor: Tukuche 2013 Les Chevaliers Du Vent
approach: Flew to Jomsom->Muktinath->Marpha->BC
bcdate: 2013-04-25
smtdate: 2013-04-28
termdate: 2013-04-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to high winds
campsites: BC(25/04,5150m),C1(26/04,5600m),xxx(28/04,6600m)
agency: Base Camp Trekking
routememo:
  After an independent acclimatization time (in Mustang, then Thorong La), the 4 members met with their Nepali team (9 porters, 1 cook with 2 assistants, 1 mountain guide and his assistant) and reached their base camp after three bivouacs (at 4850m, 4900m, then 5150m), the second one due to the unexpected departure of 7 porters because of the bad weather conditions. 

  Eventually on 26 Apr the team established its C1 at 5600m, then had to wait 40 hours there because of wind storm (unfortunately). So, due to this mandatory stop, it was not possible to move from C1 to C2 (as initially planned). On 28 Apr, when the wind suddenly decreased around 1 am, the team decided to leave at 1:50 am for a single push to the summit. But the wind came back and stopped the team at 6600m. The same day they returned to C1, took off all the gear there (the tents were almost beginning to collapse under 120 km/h winds), then came back down with heavy bags to BC.

  The 4 team members and Sherpas arrived in Marpha on 30 Apr.

  The Sherpas stayed on Tukuche Base camp and didn't come with the 4 team members. The 4 team members had brought 2 tents, food and equipment to climb Tukuche.

  Fixed rope: One small fixed rope around 6550m.


expid: EVER13152
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Sumit Joshi
countries: Australia, Ireland
bcdate: 2013-04-07
smtdate: 2013-05-13
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2013-05-16
campsites: BC(07/04,5350m),C1(13/05,6100m),C2(19/04,6600m),C3(29/04,7300m),C4(12/05,7950m),Smt(13/05)
accidents: Frostbite in all fingers of Townsden; he went to toilet without gloves on the midnight of 12 May
agency: Himalayan Ascent
routememo:
  The Himalayan Ascent team out of three climbers, two (Townsden and St. Hill) started their summit push from C4 at 9 pm and another climber O'Connell left an hour later. O'Connell, Ngima and Mingma reached the summit at 6:30 am. They stayed on summit for 30 minutes. St. Hill had to turn around from the top of the Hillary step 8790m (5:50 am) and Townsden from South Summit 8770m (6:30 am) due to bad weather. O'Connell returned C4 at 10:30 am, St. Hill at 1 pm and Townsden at 7 pm very exhausted. Next day 14 May all went down to C2 and BC on 15 May.     

  Mingma and Ngima are from Rolwaling.


  Excepts from Himalayan Ascent blog:

  13 May 2013

  First summits on Lhotse, summits on Everest and near summits! 13-05-13 1 pm
  Our teams had a successful morning. Young Chhiring picked up where the fixing team left off on Lhotse and fixed the last 300m of the summit blocks, and summited at 10.30 am this morning. Chris summited at 11.30 am with Lakpa and Pasang. We're proud of Chhiring for the first summit of the 4th highest mountain this season! Previously a monk and now a young guide, Chhiring has the luck of his uncle Lakpa's climbing genes.

  Great news on Everest too. The group set off at 9 pm last night under calm and cold conditions. Peter summited at 6.30 am with Nima and Mingma. Satisfied with their climbing success, Margaret and Warren gave the full summit a miss and turned around after the Hillary Step (8790m, ~5.50 am) and after the South Summit (8770m, ~6.30 am), respectively. A near summit indeed. Due to cloud cover, the sun was late arriving to warm up bodies. After climbing ~9 hr in cold conditions, our Sydney friends were missing warm Sydney beaches. Peter on the other hand is Irish (enough said). Margaret and Warren still climbed higher than any other mountain (K2 is 8611m)! Awesome effort.

  Both teams are heading back to Camp 4 to rest.

  10 May 2013

  It wasn't quite as hot today in the Western Cwm so the entire group made it to Camp 2 by morning tea. Speedy Warren and Peter were there for breakfast at 7.30 am! We have here: Warren climbing with Jangbu, Margaret with Ang Kaji and Dendi, Chris with Lakpa and Pasang, Peter with Mingma and Nima, Sumit and Chhiring. Everyone has had a well deserved nap, now they're just watching the weather above.


expid: LHOT13130
peakid: LHOT
year: 2013
route1: W Face
nation: Australia
leaders: Christine Burke
sponsor: A Kiwi to Lhotse
bcdate: 2013-04-11
smtdate: 2013-05-13
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2013-05-14
campsites: BC(11/04,5350m),C1(14/05,6100m),C2(19/04,6600m),C3(28/04,7200m),C4(12/05,7800m),Smt(13/05)
agency: Himalayan Ascent
routememo:
  Burke, Chhiring, Lakpa, Nawang Pasang started their summit push at 3 am of 13 May from C4. Burke and Lakpa reached summit at 11:30 am where as Chhiring and Nawang reached to the top at 10:30 am. They stayed on summit for about 30 minutes, then went down to C2 where they arrived at 7:30 pm. Next day 14 May they descended to BC. Joshi went up to C2.

  Sherpas:
    Lakpa Sherpa, 25/7/68, Tamku-9
    Nawang Pasang Sherpa, 24/10/86, Waku-4
    Chhiring Sherpa, 31/8/91, Sisuwa-9


  Excepts from Himalayan Ascent blog:

  13 May 2013

  First summits on Lhotse, summits on Everest and near summits! 13-05-13 1 pm
  Our teams had a successful morning. Young Chhiring picked up where the fixing team left off on Lhotse and fixed the last 300m of the summit blocks, and summited at 10.30 am this morning. Chris summited at 11.30 am with Lakpa and Pasang. We're proud of Chhiring for the first summit of the 4th highest mountain this season! Previously a monk and now a young guide, Chhiring has the luck of his uncle Lakpa's climbing genes.

  Great news on Everest too. The group set off at 9 pm last night under calm and cold conditions. Peter summited at 6.30 am with Nima and Mingma. Satisfied with their climbing success, Margaret and Warren gave the full summit a miss and turned around after the Hillary Step (8790m, ~5.50 am) and after the South Summit (8770m, ~6.30 am), respectively. A near summit indeed. Due to cloud cover, the sun was late arriving to warm up bodies. After climbing ~9 hr in cold conditions, our Sydney friends were missing warm Sydney beaches. Peter on the other hand is Irish (enough said). Margaret and Warren still climbed higher than any other mountain (K2 is 8611m)! Awesome effort.

  Both teams are heading back to Camp 4 to rest.

  10 May 2013

  It wasn't quite as hot today in the Western Cwm so the entire group made it to Camp 2 by morning tea. Speedy Warren and Peter were there for breakfast at 7.30 am! We have here: Warren climbing with Jangbu, Margaret with Ang Kaji and Dendi, Chris with Lakpa and Pasang, Peter with Mingma and Nima, Sumit and Chhiring. Everyone has had a well deserved nap, now they're just watching the weather above.


expid: EVER13150
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Min Bahadur Sherchan
sponsor: Nepelese Senior Citizen Everest Expedition 2013
termnote: Abandoned at base camp due to lateness in the season
campsites: BC(5350m),xxx
agency: Himalayan Guides/Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Sherchan wanted to break his own record as the oldest person to climb Everest, but he got started too late due to financial problems paying for the permit.


  The Telegraph
  By Anil Giri, Kathmandu and Dean Nelson in New Delhi 4:30PM BST 28 May 2013

  Since last Thursday, 80-year-old Yuichiro Miura, the oldest man to summit Everest, had faced an anxious wait for news that his world record had been broken by his 81-year-old longtime rival Min Bahadur Sherchan.

  But on Tuesday night he was breathing easily once again after the Gurkha pensioner was airlifted from Everest base camp to a hospital in Kathmandu suffering from chest problems.

  His evacuation has brought an end to an epic octogenarian battle to prove age is no barrier to the ultimate physical endeavour and sounded a note of disappointment for the Nepal government. Officials had hoped he would regain his world record as the oldest man to climb Everest on Wednesday to mark the 60th anniversary of Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing's historic first ascent.

  Mr Sherchan's rivalry with Yuichiro Miura began in 2008 when the Japanese alpinist set out to extend his then world record set in 2003 at the age of 70. He reached the summit again in May 2008 at the age of 75, only to find that Mr Sherchan, then 76, had beaten him to it the day before.

  This season, both men were at base camp hoping to settle once and for all which was to be the oldest conqueror of Everest probably in their lifetime, and the Japanese climber was first to launch his bid. He reclaimed his world record on May 23 when he spoke to his wife and family from the peak by satellite phone and was told to "come home now."

  His Nepali rival remained unmoved by the news and claimed his tough training regime in a pressure-controlled room to replicate the high altitude conditions of Everest had put him in peak condition. He had trained on a cross trainer and stuck to a special organic grain diet.

  Officials said bureaucratic delays in granting permission and funding for his ascent may have sapped the strength he had built up and eventually brought his final ambition to an end. As he was forced to wait at the base camp, the prolonged exposure to extreme cold weather eventually caused breathing problems and chest pains they said.

  "Sherchan had complained of some problem in his chest so I advised my friends to bring back him to Kathmandu," said Ang Tshering Sherpa, chairman of the company supporting his expedition, Asian Trekking.

  A Nepal tourism ministry official confirmed his ascent "was delayed for permission to him by the government and releasing the money."

  "He had to spend so many days in Everest [base] camp and that made him unwell. Now [for him] it is very much impossible to climb Everest this season," he said.


expid: CHOY13301
peakid: CHOY
year: 2013
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Ben Jones
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Cho Oyu Expedition 2013
countries: UK
bcdate: 2013-09-05
smtdate: 2013-09-26
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2013-09-29
campsites: BC(05/09,4700m),ABC(10/09,5600m),C1(18/09,6400m),C2(24/09,7200m),C3(25/09,7500m),Smt(26/09)
accidents: 1 Sherpa slightly injured
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  Four out of the eight members stayed long enough to make the bid for the summit. At 1:00 am on 26th September, Follows, Jones, Salomon and Michael Woodmansee left C3 for the top with five Sherpas, Kami Rita, Lhakpa Rita, Mingma Chhiri, Phura Kancha and Tshering Dorje. Their climb went smoothly in very calm and extremely clear weather, and all of them reached the top at 6:30 pm that morning. They descended to C1 at 1:00 pm and were in ABC the next day.

  All members used oxygen sleeping in C2 to the summit and down to C2. Lhakpa Rita had fixed rope all day on the 25th without oxygen, so on the summit day he used it from C3 to the top and down to C3. The other Sherpas used none.

  While he was fixing rope, Kami Rita was hit by an avalanche, and it gave him a sore shoulder that day, but the pain was gone the next day.

  Non-summiting members:

  Chambliss left the team on 21 September because of extreme exhaustion.

  Heiderer reached C1 on the 18th with the other members, but left on the 21st because of altitude sickness.

  Novak gave up the climb on her way to C1 on the 16th; she had become exhausted. She was not fit enough to continue.

  Jana Woodmansee reached C1, but was not mentally prepared for the climb and left the team on 22 September.

  Sherpas:
    Kami Rita, 17/10/70, Thami, Everest X12, Lhotse X1
    Lhakpa Rita, Thami, Cho Oyu X8, Everest X16
    Mingma Chhiri, 22/7/68, Thami, Everest X14
    Phura Kancha, 17/2/77, Thami, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X7
    Tshering Dorje, 20/7/70, Kharikhola, Solu, Cho Oyu X5, Everest X14


expid: CHOY13302
peakid: CHOY
year: 2013
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Ferran Latorre
sponsor: International Cho Oyu 2013
bcdate: 2013-09-09
smtdate: 2013-09-26
smttime: 0545
termdate: 2013-09-28
campsites: BC(09/09,4900m),ABC(13/09,5700m),C2(21/09,7000m),Smt(26/09)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  09 Sep  4900m 
  ABC 13 Sep  5700m
  C2  21 Sep  7000m
  Smt 26 Sep  at 8 am (CST) by Latorre.

  Latorre climbed from ABC to the sumit in 20 hours. He left 12 noon on 25 Sept. Weather and conditions were very good. At 6 pm Latorre reached C2, where he rested for 6-1/2 hours. He left again at 12:30 am and arrived at the summit at 8 am. He spent about half hour on the summit and saw Mount Everest. He descended to ABC, where he arrived at 5 pm.

  On 28 Sept he descended to BC and went straight to Kathmandu. He climbed together with Azim Gheichisaz from Iran (Asian Trekking) and Johann Wenzl from Austria (Monterosa).


expid: EVER13164
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Ecuador
leaders: Santiago Quintero
sponsor: Ecuador En Todo Lo Alto Everest 2013
approach: Helicopter to BC
bcdate: 2013-05-09
smtdate: 2013-05-21
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2013-05-23
othersmts: Summited Xixabangma on 30 April
campsites: BC(09/05,5300m),C2(17/05,6400m),C3(19/05,7100m),C4(20/05,8000m),Smt(21/05)
achievment: Quintero 1st double-amputee to summit Everest without oxygen (but used in descent)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Santiago, Mingma and Lama started their summit bid at 9 pm from C4 on 20 May. They reached the summit at 3 pm on 21 May, stayed on the summit about one hour. Santiago descended at 8300m where he arrived between 7-7:30 pm (below Balcony). Sherpas lost the way and he had to bivouac there. Next day 22 May Santiago went down to C4 alone where he reached at 8 am. He was put on oxygen and rescued from C2 by helicopter.


expid: EVER13159
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Nisha Adhikari
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Pheriche->Lobuche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2013-04-17
smtdate: 2013-05-21
smttime: 0715
termdate: 2013-05-23
campsites: BC(17/04,5400m),C1(07-08/05,6000m),C2(09/05,6500m),C3(19/05,7300m,C4(20/05,8000m),Smt(21/05)
achievment: 1st actress (cinema) to summit Everest
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Adhikari and her Sherpa left C4 at 8:30 pm on 20 May for the summit. The team reached the summit at 7:15 am on 21 May, stayed on the summit between 20-25 minutes, then descended C4 where they arrived around 3 pm. Next day 22 May went down to C2 and on 23 May to BC. Adhikari said they were stuck at the Hillary Step for 2 hours while descending. Summit day weather was clear with mild wind.

  Sherpa:
    Jangbu Sherpa, (11/1/2037) 23/4/1980, Kharikhola, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X8


expid: EVER13153
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Mark Wood
sponsor: Skype Everest Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Tengboche->Pheriche->Lobuche
bcdate: 2013-04-15
smtdate: 2013-05-16
termdate: 2013-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to high winds, exhaustion, coldness
campsites: BC(15/04,5300m),C1(20/04,5900m),C2(21/04,6300m),C3(15/05,9700m),C4(16/05,8000m),xxx(16/05,8300m)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  Bradley, Wood, Singi and Pema started their summit push at 8:30 pm on 16 May from C4. When they reached 8300m they had to stop due to high wind then returned C4 around 12:30 pm on 17 May. Next day 18 May went down to C2 and on 19 May to BC.

  Sherpas:
    Singi Lama
    Pema Sherpa, Ekuwa, (2030/5/12)


expid: HIML13101
peakid: HIML
year: 2013
route1: W Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Pierre Favre
sponsor: Objectif 7000
ascent1: 47th
approach: Bhulbhule->Jagat->Dharapani->Koto->Dharmasala->Kyang->Phu
bcdate: 2013-05-06
smtdate: 2013-05-14
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2013-05-16
campsites: BC(06/05,4800m),C1(08/05,5365m),C2(11/05,6050m),C3(12/05,6345m),Smt(14/05)
agency: Khumbu Shangri-La Nepal
routememo:
  Favre and Phurba started their summit bid on 14 May from C3 at 4:15 am. They got to the summit at 1:30 pm and stayed on summit for 10 minutes. It was cloudy. They returned C2 at 8:15 pm. Next day they went down to BC. When they started weather was good; from mid-day it became cloudy, windy and little snowfall.

  Brochier went up to 6900m on 12 May and turned around with Nima; Brochier was tired.

  Rest of the climbers Ms. Barbier, Boulens, Laperriere and Ms. Laperriere went up to C3. All of them were tired and could not sleep well. Pasang went down with them.

  Sherpas:
    Phurba Sherpa
    Nima Sherpa
    Pasang Sherpa


expid: HIML13301
peakid: HIML
year: 2013
route1: W Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Mark Morrison
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Himlung Expedition 2013
countries: Switzerland, Italy, USA
approach: Bhulbhule->Koto
bcdate: 2013-09-21
smtdate: 2013-09-29
termdate: 2013-09-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to fatal avalanche
campsites: BC(21/09,4800m),C1(28/09,5685m),xxx(29/09,6100m)
accidents: Fatal avalance
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  21 Sep  4800m
  C1  28 Sep  5685m	
  HPt 29 Sep  6100m by Lok Bahadur and Ngim Pasang
      29 Sep  5850m by Greene, Hansen, Maturi, Morrison, Khatri Dorje and Tendi.

  Team left C1 at 7 am. The Sherpas were fixing the rope from about 5700m and were well ahead of the team. At about 10:15 am, the members came around the corner and were right underneath an ice cliff when the 400m wide slope above them started to move. Morrison thinks it was a class 4 avalanche that came thundering down for about 200 to 300m. Fortunately, the members were protected by the ice cliff, and even though they got buried by the snow, nothing serious happened. Dorje Khatri, Tendi (and Kaji from a Dutch expedition from Kailash Himalaya) were ahead of them when the avalanche hit. They were covered by a about a metre of snow. Lok Bahadur and Ngim Pasang were at 6100m in the middle of the slope. They were both dragged down about 200m. Lok Bahadur managed to jump the crevasse on the bottom of the slope, lost his boots, but was otherwise unharmed. Ngim Pasang must have fallen into the crevasse, his body is still missing.

  After the avalanche hit, Morrison ran up the hill towards the debris and the place where Dorje Khatri and Tendi were at the time of the avalanche. He saw a hand sticking out of the snow, dug it and found Khatri Dorje, who was completely covered in snow and did not breathe. Morrison got the snow out of his mouth and Dorje Khatri started breathing again. His arm was slightly bruised, but he was otherwise fine. After he had pulled out Dorje Khatri, Morrison pulled out another hand that was sticking out of the snow and found Tendi. He tried to resuscitate Tendi, but it was too late. Tendi was already dead. By that time the clients had reached Morrison and when they dug out Tendi's body they came across a foot, which belonged to Kaji from the Dutch team. He was also dead. Both Tendi and Kaji were buried under about one metre of snow.

  Morrison arranged a helicopter to pick up the bodies, but the helicopter cold not land. Green, Maturi and Lok Bahadur descended to BC. Morrison, Hansen and Khatri Dorje kept on looking for Ngim Pasang, but could not find him. At 4 pm, they packed up as much of C1 as they could and descended to BC. On 30 Sept, the team was picked up by helicopter, which brought two more Sherpas to BC to support carrying down the bodies. They will be picked up by helicopter in the next few days. Khatri Dorje and Lok Bahadur were checked in hospital and are well.

  Sherpas:
    Khatri, Dorje, Ghunsa, Lelep-9, Taplejung, 19/12/1968
    Thapa Magar, Lok Bahadur, Yasam, Okhaldhunga, 30/01/1966
    Tendi, Sanam, Gudel, Solukhumbu, 13/10/1968
    Ngim Pasang Sherpa, Jubing-3, Solukhumbu, 27/09/1978


expid: MANA13301
peakid: MANA
year: 2013
route1: NE Face
nation: UK
leaders: Brett Hammond
sponsor: A Briton to Manaslu
approach: Samagaon
bcdate: 2013-09-13
smtdate: 2013-10-02
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2013-10-05
campsites: BC(13/09,4800m),C1(17/09,5720m),C2(18/09,6350m),C3(30/09,6800m),C4(01/10,7400m),Smt(02/10)
agency: Ascent Himalayas
routememo:
  BC  13 Sep  4800m
  C1  17 Sep  5720m
  C2  18 Sep  6350m
  C3  30 Sep  6800m
  C4  01 Oct  7400m
  Smt 02 Oct  by Hammond, Mingma Tshering at 10 am,

  Summit team left C4 at 3 am. Visibility was bad and they ascended too far to the left. They climbed over a steep ice cliff for about 300m without a rope. Once on top of the cliff, they veered back to the right. They stayed for about 5 minutes on the summit. They descended to C2, where they arrived at 6 pm. On 3 Oct down to BC.

  Hammond climbed with Teodor Johansen (Norway) of Ascent Himalaya and Christine Burke (New Zealand) of Himalayan Ascent.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Hammond and Mingma Tshering

  Sherpas:
    Mingma Tshering/Tsiri, Beding, Dolakha, 01/08/1970


expid: MANA13302
peakid: MANA
year: 2013
route1: NE Face
nation: Argentina
leaders: Sebastian Aldana
sponsor: Argentina to Manaslu
approach: Arughat->Samagaon
bcdate: 2013-09-18
smtdate: 2013-10-02
termdate: 2013-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to too much wind and snowfall
campsites: BC(18/09,4700m),C1(21/09,5800m),C2(23/09,6400m),C3(01/10,6800m),C4(02/10,7400m),xxx(02/10,7400m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  18 Sep  4700m
  C1	21 Sep  5800m
  C2	23 Sep  6400m
  C3	01 Oct  6800m
  C4	02 Oct  7400m
  HPt 02 Oct  7400m by Aldana, Lisi, Sanchez de Busjamente, Quinonce, Pasang Chhiri 

  Summit attempt was supposed to be on 3 Oct but a big storm came up at 1am and going to the summit was out of the question. They waited until 10 am, but the weather did not improve and they decided to go down. They descended to BC, where they arrived at 4 pm.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Chhiri, Samde, Khumbu, 30/01/1975


expid: MANA13303
peakid: MANA
year: 2013
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Toshiyuki Kitamura
sponsor: Adventure Guides Manaslu Expedition 2013
approach: Helicopter to Samagaon
bcdate: 2013-09-13
smtdate: 2013-10-02
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2013-10-05
campsites: BC(13/09,4500m),C1(17/09,5500m),C2(22/09,6200m),C3(30/09,6900m),C4(01/10,7500m),Smt(02/10)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  All team members left C4 at 2:00 am on October 2nd.

  Kitamura, Arai, Dendi and Gompa reached summit at 9:00 am.
  Rest of the team arrived at the summit at 9:30 am.
  Descended to C2 on October 2 and stayed there.
  Weather was good.
  Oct 3 descended to BC.

  Sherpas:
    Phura Chiri Sherpa, 10/5/69, Saframa, Lokhim-9, Cho Oyu X3, Everest X7, 
      Lhotse X2, Manaslu X5
    Lhakpa Chhiri Sherpa, 7/4/64, Kurima, Lokhim-9, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X3,
      Manaslu X2
    Da Dendi, 28/5/81, Saikpharma, Lokhim-9, Solu
    Tendi Sherpa, 22/1/94, Taksindu-4, Solu
    Gomba Sherpa, 7/12/1983, Sotang-6, Solu
    Cheppa Sherpa, 29/10/1983, Sotang-6, Solukhumbu, Everest X3, Manaslu X1


expid: MANA13306
peakid: MANA
year: 2013
route1: NE Face
nation: Israel
leaders: Nadav Ben Yehuda
sponsor: An Israeli to Manaslu
approach: Samagaon
bcdate: 2013-09-14
smtdate: 2013-10-02
termdate: 2013-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to too much wind and snowfall
campsites: BC(14/09,4700m),C1(17/09,5800m),C2(23/09,6400m),C3(01/10,6800m),C4(02/10,7400m),xxx
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  14 Sep  4700m
  C1  17 Sep  5800m
  C2  23 Sep  6400m
  C3  01 Oct  6800m
  C4  02 Oct  7400m
  HPt	02 Oct  7400m by Ben Yehuda and Pasang Nuru.

  Summit attempt was supposed to be on 3 Oct, but a big storm came up at 1 am and going to the summit was out of the question. They waited until 10 am, but the weather did not improve and they decided to go down. They descended to BC, where they arrived at 11 pm.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken, not used by Ben Yehuda
    Taken and used by Pasang Nuru on the descent from C4 to BC

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Nuru, Bupsa, Solu, 17/05/1974


expid: MANA13307
peakid: MANA
year: 2013
route1: NE Face
nation: Norway
leaders: Teodor Johansen
sponsor: A Norwegian to Manaslu
approach: Samagaon
bcdate: 2013-09-13
smtdate: 2013-10-02
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2013-10-05
campsites: BC(13/09,4800m),C1(17/09,5720m),C2(18/09,6350m),C3(30/09,6800m),C4(01/10,7400m),Smt(02/10)
accidents: Nima Gyalzen fell into crevasse
agency: Ascent Himalayas
routememo:
  BC  13 Sep  4800m
  C1  17 Sep  5720m
  C2  18 Sep  6350m
  C3  30 Sep  6800m
  C4  01 Oct  7400m
  Smt 02 Oct  by Johanson, Nima Gyalzen Sherpa at 10 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 3 am. Visibility was bad and they ascended too far to the left. They climbed over a steep ice cliff for about 300m without a rope. Once on top of the cliff, they veered back to the right. They stayed for about 5 minutes on the summit. They descended to C2, where they arrived at 6 pm. On 3 Oct down to BC.

  On the way down Nima Gyalzen fell into a crevasse (collapsed snow bridge) just outside C3. He did not get injured; however, it became difficult to get over the crevasse (it was about 5m wide) afterwards.

  Johansen climbed with Brett Hammond (UK) of Ascent Himalaya and Christine Burke (New Zealand) of Himalayan Ascent.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Johansen and Nima

  Sherpas:
    Nima Gyalzen, Beding, Dolakha, 09/08/1985


expid: MANA13308
peakid: MANA
year: 2013
route1: NE Face
nation: Australia
leaders: Christine Burke
sponsor: A Kiwi to Manaslu
approach: Samagaon
bcdate: 2013-09-13
smtdate: 2013-10-02
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2013-10-05
campsites: BC(13/09,4800m),C1(17/09,5720m),C2(18/09,6350m),C3(30/09,6800m),C4(01/10,7400m),Smt(02/10)
agency: Himalayan Ascent
routememo:
  BC  13 Sep  4800m
  C1  17 Sep  5720m
  C2  18 Sep  6350m
  C3  30 Sep  6800m
  C4  01 Oct  7400m
  Smt 02 Oct by Burke, Lhakpa at 10 am

  Summit team left C4 at 3 am. Visibility was bad and they ascended too far to the left. They climbed over a steep ice cliff for about 300m without a rope. Once on top of the cliff, they veered back to the right. They stayed for about 5 minutes on the summit. They descended to C2, where they arrived at 6 pm. On 3 Oct down to BC.

  Burke climbed with Johansen and Hammod of Ascent Himalaya.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Burke and Lhakpa

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa/Lakpa, Tamku-9, Makalu-Barun, 25/07/1968


expid: MANA13309
peakid: MANA
year: 2013
route1: NE Face
nation: UK
leaders: Phil Crampton
sponsor: Altitude Junkies Manaslu Expedition 2013
countries: Australia, Belgium, S Africa, USA
bcdate: 2013-09-07
smtdate: 2013-09-25
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2013-09-26
campsites: BC(07/09,4700m),C1(14/09,5700m),C2(15/09,6400m),C3(23/09,6700m),C4(24/09,7400m),Smt(25/09)
accidents: Newton altitude sickness; Crampton's fall in crevasse
agency: Expedition Himalaya
routememo:
  The summit party of Arnette, Carstens, Crampton and Samuel with Sherpas Changba Nurbu, Pasang Nima, Pasang Wangchu and Tarke left for the top from C4 at 3:10 am on 25 September. All reached the summit, but they were not together. Crampton and Pasang Nima summited at 8:30 am; Arnette and Pasang Wangchu at 9:00 am; Carstens, Samuel, Tarke and Changba Nurbu at 9:30 am. All except Crampton descended to C1 while Crampton carried on to BC to be examined by the British Gurkhas team's medic.

  Crampton fell into a crevasse when a crevasse's snow bridge collapsed under him while he was descending to C2 carrying his personal gear and four oxygen bottles each weighing 3 kg. He fell 15 meters and was stopped by the oxygen bottles, which wedged him between the sides of the crevasse. He was pulled up to the surface after an hour and a half; he had lost a crampon and could not climb out of it by himself, but he kept warm in the down suit he was wearing and with his oxygen supply. He was found by the medic's examination to be uninjured except for a lot of painful bruises.

  Oxygen was used by all members and Sherpas in the summit party in C4 to the top and down to but not in C2 (except for Crampton, who used it to BC).

  Non-summiting members:

  Francois got to C4 on 24 September, but he was too tired to go for the top and instead descended to C1 on the 25th.

  Moore also reached C4 on the 24th, but was too tired to go on up and went down to C1 on the 25th.

  Newton developed a case of altitude sickness as he reached C3 on the 23rd that could have become really serious if he hadn't gone down to BC that same day. He stayed in BC until the climb was finished.

  Sherpas:
    Changba Nurbu, 1964, Tate, Solu, Everest X9, Cho Oyu X1, Dhaulagiri X2,
      Manaslu X2
    Pasang Nima, 28/1/74, Chaurikharka, Solu, Everest X2, Manaslu X1
    Pasang Wangchu, 25/4/87, Cheremy, Bung, Solu, Everest X3, Manaslu X2
    Tarke, 1967, Rakshi Kharka, Lokhim, Solu, Everest X4, Manaslu X3, Cho Oyu X4, 
      Lhotse X1


expid: MANA13310
peakid: MANA
year: 2013
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Michael Beigbeder
sponsor: Du Saleve au Manaslu 2013
approach: Samagaon
bcdate: 2013-09-11
smtdate: 2013-09-25
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2013-09-29
campsites: BC(11/09,4900m),C1(15/09,5750m),C2(16/09,6350m),C3(18/09,6700m),C4(24/09,7400m),Smt(25/09)
agency: Khumbu Shangri-La Nepal
routememo:
  BC  11 Sep  4900m
  C1  15 Sep  5750m	
  C2  16 Sep  6350m
  C3  18 Sep  6700m	
  C4  24 Sep  7400m
  Smt 25 Sep  by Beigbeder and Mingma Dorjee at 3 pm, Gagneret, Favre-Felix,
              Morel and Dawa Gyalgen at 11:30 am.
         
  Baronian reached 7950m; Meziani reached C4 (7400m).

  Summit team and Baronian left C4 at 3 am. Weather was clear. Gagneret, Favre-Felix, Morel and Dawa Gyalgen spent about 30 minutes on the summit and descended towards C4. They met Baronian at about 7950m. He was suffering from gastric problems and turned back when the first summit team came down. They descended to C4 together where they arrived at 3 pm. Beigbeder and Mingma Dorjee arrived at C4 at 6 pm.

  Meziani reached C4 on 24 Sept. When the others went for their summit bid, he decided that he would rather sleep than go to up. He stayed at C4 until 26 Sept.

  On 26 Sept Gagneret and Baronian descended to BC. Beigbeder, Favre-Felix, Meziani, Morel, Dawa Gyalgen and Mingma Dorjee descended to C2. On 28 Sept everybody was back at BC.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from 6700m to top to C3 by Morel
    Taken and used from 7950m to top to 7800m by Beigbeder

  Sherpas: 
    Dawa Gyalzen, Chheplung, Khumbu, 21/08/1987 
    Mingma Dorjee Sherpa, Makalu, Sankhuwasabha, (13/03/2024), Everest X12?


expid: MANA13312
peakid: MANA
year: 2013
route1: NE Face
nation: Romania
leaders: Adrian Valean
sponsor: Romanian Manaslu Expedition 2013
countries: USA
approach: Arughat->Sotikhola->Carlo Beni->Jagat->Dum->Namrung->Samagaon
bcdate: 2013-09-12
smtdate: 2013-10-02
termdate: 2013-10-07
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to bad weather, snow and wind, alloted time over
campsites: BC(12/09,4800m),C1(18/09,5700m),C2(19/09,6400m),C3(29/09,6900m),C4(02/10,7400m),xxx(02/10,7400m)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  Summit attempt target was 2 Oct. Capusan and Valean went to C4, but bad weather windy cloudy and storm forced climbers to go down. Both went straight to BC on 3 Oct. 

  High point for Bowyer and Cipcigan was C3.


expid: MANA13314
peakid: MANA
year: 2013
route1: NE Face
nation: China
leaders: Zhang Wei
sponsor: Chinese to Manaslu
bcdate: 2013-09-11
smtdate: 2013-09-25
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2013-09-27
campsites: BC(11/09,4700m),C1(15/09,5700m),C2(23/09,6900m),C3(24/09,7400m),Smt(25/09)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Summit team left C3 at 3:30 am. Weather and conditions were very good. There was a bit of a traffic jam on the bottom of the cornice so they had to wait for about half an hour for Russell Brice's team to come down. They went all the way up to the end of the fixed ropes to the top of the cornice. They only took a quick picture on the summit before they descended.

  Ji Han, Yi Wang, Karma Gyalzen, Tendi and Pemba descended to C1, where they arrived at 7 pm. Yang Gao and Walung descended to C2, where they arrived at 5 pm. Xiang-Wen Kou and Sonam descended to base camp, where they arrived at 8:30 pm. On 26 Sept everyone descended to BC.

  Wei was expedition leader and did not intend to climb. He stayed at BC.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C2 to summit to C2 by members; Sherpas
          not used

  Sherpas:
    Karma Gyalzen, Makalu-9, 04/09/83
    Pemba Sherpa, Makalu, Everest 1X
    Sonam Sherpa, Makalu-5
    Walong Dorje Sherpa, Makalu, Everest
    Tendi Sherpa


expid: MANA13315
peakid: MANA
year: 2013
route1: NE Face
nation: Russia
leaders: Oxana Morneva
sponsor: International Manaslu Expedition 2013
countries: Kyrgyz Republic
approach: Bus to Arughat->Samagaon
bcdate: 2013-09-20
smtdate: 2013-10-02
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2013-10-12
campsites: BC(20/09,4800m),C1(22/09,5700m),C2(30/09,6300m),C4(01/10,7500m),Smt(02/10)
agency: Dream Himalaya Adventures
routememo:
  The whole team stayed for acclimatization two nights at C1, on the 22nd and 23rd of September, in good weather condition.

  Then Oxana went alone to attempt for the summit, doing her ascent as follows:

    C1 on the 29th September
    C2 on the 30th September
    C4 on the 1st October
    Summit on the 2nd October at 11 am.

  The rest of the group did its summit attempt as follows:
    
    C1 on the 7th October
    C2 on the 8th October

  Then this group intended to reach C4 on the 9th, stay there on the 10th then attempt the summit on the 11th. But on the 9th October, they could only reach their high point at the C3 North Col (6900m) site and abandoned there, as the weather turned stormy with a certain avalanche danger to reach C4. This day they went back to C1 then to the BC the next day.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa, 22/11/80, Thami, Khumbu
    Lhakpa, 11/10/78, Zarok, Namche, Khumbu
    Chatur Kumar Tamang, DOB 25/8/73, Sochi, Russia

  They paid to use Russell Brice's fixed rope, so they didn't fix any.

  Oxygen: Only used by Oxana Morneva on the 2nd of October, from C3 (North Col) up to summit and back to C3.


expid: CHOY13310
peakid: CHOY
year: 2013
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Toru Shimada
sponsor: Taro Treks Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2013-09-07
smtdate: 2013-09-21
termdate: 2013-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to difficulty breathing
campsites: BC(07/09,5000m),ABC(10/09,5800m),C1(16/09,6400m),C2(21/09,7200m),xxx(21/09,7200m)
agency: Taro Treks (Monterosa Treks pmt)
routememo:
  BC  07 Sep  5000m
  ABC 10 Sep  5800m
  C1	16 Sep  6400m	
  C2	21 Sep  7200m
  HPt	21 Sep  7200m C2 by Shimada.

  On his way to C2, Shimada had problems breathing. When got to C2, he found it very hard to sleep and to breathe and so he decided to abandon his attempt. On 22 Sept he descended to ABC. He stayed at ABC until 5 Oct as they were having problems organising the yaks.


expid: MANA13317
peakid: MANA
year: 2013
route1: NE Face
nation: USA
leaders: Erik Thorvilson
sponsor: Thor Manaslu Expedition
approach: Arughat->Soti Khola->Khorlabesi->Jagat->Deng->Namrung->Samagaon
bcdate: 2013-09-12
smtdate: 2013-10-02
termdate: 2013-10-06
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to heavy wind and storm conditions
campsites: BC(12/09,4700m),C1(15/09,5700m),C2(19/09,6200m),C3(01/10,6800m),C4(02/10,7500m),xxx(02-03/10,7600m)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  Thorvilson's summit push with Lhakpa started on 29 Sept from BC. They reached C4 on 2 October. Weather was clear and calm until approximately midnight at 23:00 of 2 October, then wind and storm rolled into C4. Entire camp retreated lower down the mountain to C1 or BC. Thorvilson went down to BC.


  Thorvilson added in his email the following:

  Manaslu summit Days this fall:

  25 Sep: For climbers who arrived earlier in the season, I was not properly acclimatized yet.

  02 Oct:  For climbers who started the same day as me from base camp on 29 Sept, but moved from C1 to C3 in one day because using oxygen.

  Note: A few climbers did try to make one final summit attempt starting from base camp on 7 Oct after the four-day storm that brought me down the mountain ended, but did not make it above C3 due to deep snow and avalanche.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa, Everest X3 with Snowy Horizon


expid: MANA13318
peakid: MANA
year: 2013
route1: NE Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Andrea Zimmermann
sponsor: Wild Yak Manaslu Expedition 2013
approach: Samagaon
bcdate: 2013-09-14
smtdate: 2013-10-02
termdate: 2013-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 7450m due to too much wind and snowfall
othersmts: Plans Ama Dablam after Manaslu
campsites: BC(14/09,4700m),C1(16/09,5800m),C2(25/09,6400m),C3(26/09,6800m),C4(02/10,7450m),xxx
agency: Wild Yak Expeditions
routememo:
  BC  14 Sep  4700m
  C1  16 Sep  5800m
  C2  25 Sep  6400m
  C3  26 Sep  6800m
  C4  02 Oct  7450m
  HPt 02 Oct  7450m by Bornet, Zimmermann, Pemba Norbu

  Weather on 2 Oct was good and the team was intending to summit on 3 Oct. At 1 am a strong storm came up, which made it impossible to go out. The storm was howling the whole night and at 9 am they decided to abandon their climb. They descended to BC, where they arrived at 4 pm.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Norbu/Nurbu, Ghunsa, Lelep-9, Taplejung, 06/12/1978


expid: MANA13319
peakid: MANA
year: 2013
route1: NE Face
nation: UK
leaders: Chris Allewell
sponsor: British Services 8000m Expedition to Manaslu
approach: Samagaon
bcdate: 2013-09-14
smtdate: 2013-10-09
termdate: 2013-10-11
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to ropes covered in ice and unrecoverable
campsites: BC(14/09,4800m),C1(17/09,5700m),C2(22/09,6400m),C3(08/10,6800m),xxx(09/10,7200m)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  BC  14 Sep  4800m
  C1	17 Sep  5700m
  C2	22 Sep  6400m
  C3	08 Oct  6800m
  HPt 09 Oct  7200m by Allewell, Beresford, Evans, Smith, Taylor, Stacey, Lhakpa, Tshering, Tashi, Pertemba.

  High point team left C3 at 10 am. They left so late due to the high winds. Enroute, the rope was partially buried and they had to pull it out as they went along. However, when they got to 7200m at about 1 pm, they decided to turn around as the rope was covered in ice and they were unable to pull it out. They descended to C2, where they arrived at 4 pm. On 10 Oct they dismantled the camps and descended to BC.

  Colwill reached about 5200m on 17 Sept. He had chest pain and difficulties breathing and was medivaced to Kathmandu on 20 Sept. He is fine now.

  Hensman reached Camp 1 on 17 Sept. On his second trip to C1 on 21 Sept he had a TIA (Transcient Ischemic Attack). Allewell and Stacey were with him and dragged him down to BC and then to Samagaon, from where he was flown back to Kathmandu the following day, on 22 Sept. He was using oxygen from just below crampon point (about 5100m) to BC. 

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to high point to C3 by all members
    Taken and used from 5100m to BC on the descent by Hensman


expid: MANA13320
peakid: MANA
year: 2013
route1: NE Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Mario Andrighettoni
approach: Samagaon
bcdate: 2013-09-13
smtdate: 2013-10-02
termdate: 2013-10-06
termnote: Abandoned at 7450m due to too much wind and snowfall
campsites: BC(13/09,4700m),C1(15/09,5700m),C2(16/09,6400m),C3(01/10,6700m),C4(02/10,7450m),xxx
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  BC  13 Oct  4700m
  C1  15 Oct  5700m
  C2  16 Oct  6400m
  C3  01 Oct  6700m
  C4  02 Oct  7450m
  HPt	02 Oct 7450m by Andrighettoni, Raffaelli.

  Team intended to summit on 3 Oct, but the wind got too strong and they decided not to attempt for the summit. They left C4 at 8 am on 3 Oct and descended to BC, where they arrived at 5 pm. They climbed together with the team of Javier Camacho and their dates are identical.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


expid: MANA13321
peakid: MANA
year: 2013
route1: NE Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Markus Amon
sponsor: Oesterreichische Manaslu Ski Expedition 2013
approach: Gorkha->Rupina La
bcdate: 2013-09-14
smtdate: 2013-09-25
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2013-10-05
campsites: BC(14/09,4930m),C1(17/09,5650m),C2(22/09,6650m),C3(24/09,7450m),Smt(25/09)
agency: Langtang Ri Trekking
routememo:
  BC  14 Sep  4930m
  C1  17 Sep  5650m
  C2  22 Sep  6650m
  C3  24 Sep  7450m
  Smt 25 Sept by Amon at 11:45 am, Groebner and Hechenberger at 3 pm

  Amon started from C2, where he left at 4:15 am. Straightforward climb in 7-1/2 hours. He stayed on the summit for about half an hour. He skied down from the mushroom rock to 6100m just above the icefall and then from 5900m to 5100m. He was back at BC at 4 pm.

  Groebner and Hechenberger left C4 at 8 am on 25 Sept. They stayed for about half an hour on the summit and skied down from the mushroom rock to C3, where they arrived at 4:30 pm. On 26 Sept they left C3 at 8 am and skied from C3 to C2, which they took down, then to 6100m to the top of the icefall and then skied again from 5900m to 5100m. They arrived back at BC at 2:30 pm.

  Leithner did not join the first summit attempt as he needed a few rest days. He started his summit attempt on 30 Sept (C2) and was at C3 on 1 Oct. On 2 Oct he left C3 at 6:25 am and reached 7800m at about 9 am. As it was very windy and the weather too bad, he abandoned his attempt and skied down to C2, which he took down. Then skied to 6100m and put them back on at 5900m and skied down to C1, where Amon and Hechenberger were taking down C1. They all arrived back at BC at 4 pm.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


expid: MANA13324
peakid: MANA
year: 2013
route1: NE Face
nation: UK
leaders: Stuart Peacock
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Manaslu Expedition 2013
countries: Iceland
approach: Arughat->Soti->Machha Khola->Jagat->Deng->Namrung->Samagaon
bcdate: 2013-09-14
smtdate: 2013-09-24
termdate: 2013-10-11
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to frozen rope on serac
campsites: BC(14/09,4800m),C1(19/09,5780m),C2(24/09,6330m),C3(03/10,6800m),xxx(09/10,7100m)
agency: Makalu Adventure
routememo:
  The expedition planned to go to summit on 5 October. Accordingly, Lhakpa and Phurbu pitched C4 on 24 September at 7400m. On 3 October James, Jennick, McMannus, Peacock and Svavarsdottir were at C3. Same day a big serac collapsed at 6600m. Then they went down to BC. 

  Next attempt was for 10 October to summit and on 9 October Jennick and Peacock climbed up to 7100m. They found that the fixed ropes were frozen under ice and they could not break the ice. Then they quit expedition; frustrating is what Peacock said.

  High point for James and Svavarsdottir was 7000m.

  Brittleton joined expedition arriving BC on 18 September. Brittleton and Cornfield left expedition on 21 September due to home sickness.

  On 25 September, one of the members of the Peacock team saw the collapsing of a snow bridge on which Phil Crampton was walking and fell 10 meters into crevasse. The member called Peacock who was ahead of him. Peacock, his member and three Himex Sherpas pulled Crampton out of crevasse.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Sherpa
    Phurbu Sherpa
    Pasang Sherpa


expid: MANA13325
peakid: MANA
year: 2013
route1: NE Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Fabrizio Molignoni
sponsor: Spedizione Alpinistica del Ligori Apoani Manaslu 2013
approach: Besisahar->Samagaon
bcdate: 2013-09-12
smtdate: 2013-10-02
termdate: 2013-10-06
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to too much wind and snowfall
campsites: BC(12/09,4800m),C1(14/09,5700m),C2(18/09,6400m),C3(01/10,6900m),C4(02/10,7400m),xxx
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  BC  12 Sep  4800m
  C1  14 Sep  5700m
  C2  18 Sep  6400m
  C3  01 Oct  6900m
  C4  02 Oct  7400m
  HPt 02 Oct  7400m Frittella, Molignoni, Rixi, Vaira, Virgilio, Nima,
              Mingma Tenzi, Mingma Temba

  Team wanted to leave for the summit at 12:30 am. During the night the wind was too strong (about 120 km). No visibility. At about 8 am they descended to BC, where they arrived at 8 pm. Vaira did not feel well on the way down. He had no strength left in his legs. He took the team's emergency oxygen to descend to BC.

  Cavallo reached C3 on 1 Oct. He stayed the night and descended to C2 on the next day. It was his goal to get to C3 and never intended to go higher.

  Ratti reached 7000m on 2 Oct. He was too slow and his legs were tired and so he turned back to C3, where he picked up Cavallo. They descended to C2 together, where they stayed the night. On 3 Oct they descended to BC. 

  Oxygen: 
    Emergency oxygen taken and used by Vaira from C4 to BC

  Sherpas:
    Mingma Tenzi, Yaphu-9, Makalu-Barun, 07/11/1984
    Mingma Temba, Yaphu-9, Makalu-Barun, 19/01/1980
    Nima, Sungdel-7, Khotang, 28/07/1978


expid: MANA13322
peakid: MANA
year: 2013
route1: NE Face
nation: Malaysia
leaders: Ravichandran Tharumalingam
sponsor: Asian Trekking Manaslu Expedition 2013
approach: Samagaon
bcdate: 2013-09-12
smtdate: 2013-10-03
termdate: 2013-10-06
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to too much wind and snowfall
campsites: BC(12/09,4800m),C1(19/09,5300m),C2(23/09,6400m),C3(01/10,6850m),C4(02/10,7400m),xxx
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  12 Sep  4800m
  C1  19 Sep  5300m
  C2  23 Sep  6400m
  C3  01 Oct  6850m
  C4  02 Oct  7400m
  HPt 03 Oct  7400m by Tharumalingam, Tshering Phinjo 

  Tharumalingam and Tshering wanted to go for the summit at 3 am. The storm was too strong to go out. At about 8:30 am [they went down] to C2, arrived at about 3 pm. It was very foggy. The following day to BC.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C2 to C4 on ascent ONLY by member and Sherpa

  Sherpa:
    Tshering Phinjo, Khumjung, Khumbu, 29/04/1973


expid: MANA13323
peakid: MANA
year: 2013
route1: NE Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Nicola Bonaiti
sponsor: Mountain Kingdom Manaslu Autumn 2013
bcdate: 2013-09-12
smtdate: 2013-10-02
termdate: 2013-10-06
termnote: Abandoned at 7440m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(12/09,4800m),C1(17/09,5800m),C2(18/09,6400m),C3(01/10,6800m),C4(02/10,7440m),xxx
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  The expedition organizer, Cesa Bianchi, was only briefly at BC.

  Sherpa:
    Tshering Jangbu, Rakshi Kharka, Lokhim, 1/8/77, Everest X2, Lhotse X3


expid: MANA11327
peakid: MANA
year: 2011
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Micheal Beigbeder
sponsor: French Manaslu Expedition 2013
approach: Samagaon
bcdate: 2011-09-22
smtdate: 2011-09-30
termdate: 2011-10-03
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to too much wind
campsites: BC(22/09,4900m),C1(26/09,5750m),C2(27/09,6350m),C3(29/09,6700m),C4(30/09,7400m),xxx
agency: Khumbu Shangri-La Nepal
routememo:
  BC  22/09  4900m
  C1  26/09  5750m	
  C2  27/09  6350m
  C3  29/09  6700m	
  C4  30/09  7400m
  HPt 30/09  7400m by Beigbeder.

  Team abandoned expedition due to too much wind. Friedrich, Morel, Meziani, France Beigbeder and Mathy reached C3 on 29 Sept. None of them carried on with Michael Beigbeder as they were all too tired. On 30 Sept they descended to BC, and Beigbeder Michael descended to BC on 1 Oct.

  Oxygen:
    Taken, not used


expid: MANA13304
peakid: MANA
year: 2013
route1: NE Face
nation: Turkey
leaders: Tunc Findik
sponsor: Turk on Manaslu
approach: Samagaon
bcdate: 2013-09-10
smtdate: 2013-09-25
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2013-09-27
campsites: BC(10/09,4900m),C1(14/09,5700m),C2(15/09,6400m),C3(23/09,6800m),C4(24/09,7400m),Smt(25/09)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  10 Sep  4900m
  C1  14 Sep  5700m	
  C2  15 Sep  6400m
  C3  23 Sep  6800m	
  C4  24 Sep  7400m
  Smt 25 Sep  by Findik at 9:30 am

  Findik left C4 at 3:15 am. Weather was good. Straightforward climb. He spent about 30 minutes on the summit as there were not many people on the summit. He descended to BC, where he arrived at 5:30 pm. On the way he had to climb through the crevasse Phil Crampton fell into and where the snowbridge collapsed at 6450m. 

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


expid: EVER13110
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK/USA
leaders: Adrian Crane
sponsor: Monterosa International Everest Expedition
countries: Spain
bcdate: 2013-04-16
smtdate: 2013-05-20
termdate: 2013-05-23
termnote: Abandoned on 20 May due to exhaustion
campsites: BC(16/04,5330m),IC(21/04,5800m),ABC(22/04,6400m),C1(18/07,7070m),xxx(20/05,7220m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  The Monterosa International Everest expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Monterosa provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Adrian Crane (UK/USA)

  Name:  Adrian Zorro Gold Rush to Everest
  Camps: BC(16/04,5330m),IC(21/04,5800m),ABC(22/04,6400m),C1(18/05,7070m),
         xxx(20/05,7220m)
  Left:  23/05/2013
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned on 20 May due to physical condition (not strong enough)

  Crane did cycling from Kodari to Janakpur in 2000 and 2004 Everest CBC to Kodari.  This year he is cycling from Janakpur to zero altitude (Bangladesh) via India.

  Crane was suffering form an injury that stopped him from training hard. He just didn’t have it in him, so he quit at 7220m.

  Oxygen:
    From N Col to high pt to N Col


  Jose Luis (Topo) Romero (Spain)

  Name:  Tokando Las Astrellas Everest
  Camps: CBC(16/04,5300m),IC(21/04,5700m),ABC(22/04,6400m),C1(07/05,7000m),
           xxx(19/05,7060m)
  Left:  23/05/2013
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 7060m due to blistered feet (inappropriate boots)

  Adrian Crane said that on summit push day Romero and Ang Dawa went little above C1 (7060m approx), but Romero could not continue due to boot problems, his feet badly blistered. So Romero gave up.

  Sherpa:
    Ang Dawa Sherpa, 7/2/1978, Seduwa, Makalu-5, Everest X2

  Oxygen:
    Not used


  Others:
    William Sarmiento (USA)
    Jose Miota Ibarra (Spain)

  Adrian Crane - 7 Oct 2013 (email)

  William Sarmiento arrived at BC with Monterosa in April with me. He came to ABC and climbed to about 22,200 ft at the base of the North Col wall on Wednesday May 8th.

  Dr. Jose Miota Ibarra never planned on going beyond ABC camp. He did come up to "Crampon Point" (about 21,800 ft?) a couple of times.

  Above ABC, Topo (Jose Luis Romero) worked with his Sherpa while I put camp and supplies on North Col and tried to get C2 established. Eventually we agreed to climb on the same schedule (mostly for company than logistical reasons) during our summit push, but as I said before, he did not go above North Col.


expid: CHOY13303
peakid: CHOY
year: 2013
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: SummitClimb Cho Oyu Expedition 2013
countries: Finland, Germany, Netherlands, UK
bcdate: 2013-09-07
smtdate: 2013-09-26
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2013-09-29
agency: Everest Parivar
campsites:
  BC(07/09,4900m),ABC(10/09,5690m),C1(15/09,6400m),C1.5(17/09,6800m),C2(24/09,7100m),C3(25/09,7500m),Smt(26/09)

routememo:
  Six of the team's seven members went to the top. The seventh member, Zachary, went to the last camp C3 with the team, but then stayed there while the others summited. Apparently he was not mentally prepared for the final push -- no motivation for a summit bid; he was not using oxygen.

  The summit party left C3 at 2:00 am on 26 September. They were Grieve, Landmann, Mazur, Olsen, Sunell, Van der Hoeven, Ang Pasang and Jangbu. They reached the top between 9:00 am (Grieve and Jangbu) and 11:00 am (Landmann with Mazur and Ang Pasang accompanying him as Landmann was slow; he was not using oxygen). The weather was excellent.

  The summiters descended to C2 for the night; they reached there at 6:30 pm. The whole expedition was together in ABC on 27 September and left the mountain on the 29th.

  Oxygen was used by Grieve, Mazur and Olsen from C2 to the summit to C2.

  There was an avalanche on 17 September which injured some other expeditions' Sherpas, but this team was untouched.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Pasang Sherpa, 15/6/84, Patle, Everest X2
    Jangbu Sherpa, 24/5/67, Patle, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X4, Lhotse X1


expid: CHOY13305
peakid: CHOY
year: 2013
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Dominik Mueller
sponsor: Amical Alpin Cho Oyu Expedition 2013
countries: Austria, Spain
approach: Kodari->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2013-09-07
smtdate: 2013-10-02
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2013-10-06
campsites: BC(07/09,5000m),ABC(10/09,5702m),C1(14/09,6400m),C2(20/09,7027m),C3(01/10,7500m),Smt(02/10)
accidents: Frostbite on all 10 fingers and 10 toes by Andreas Eckhart; on 3 fingers on right hand by Schmuck
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  07 Sep  5000m
  ABC 10 Sep  5702m
  C1	14 Sep  6400m	
  C2	20 Sep  7027m
  C3	01 Oct  7500m
  Smt 02 Oct  by Mueller, Chuldim Sherpa at 7 am; Laengerer, Pema at 11 am; 
              Schmuck, Pema (again) at 12.30 pm; Eckhart Gerhard, Rech at 1 pm

  Summit team, Andreas Eckhart and Villarroel left C3 at 1 am. Villarroel turned back after about 20 minutes as he was feeling weak. He had not eaten for 3 days and felt dizzy. Straightforward climb. Mueller spent about 3 hours on the summit to wait for the others. However, as nobody came he got too cold and started descending. Lanegerer summited with Pema and on their way down, they bumped into Schmuck, who was on his own. Pema went back to the summit with Schmuck and summited again.

  Mueller bumped into Gerhard and Andreas Eckhart at about 11 am and told them it was getting a bit late. At about 1 pm Andreas Eckhart decided to turn back at about 8100m as he was too tired. He did not say anything about cold fingers and toes. When Schmuck was on his way down, he bumped into Andreas Eckhart and descended with him; Schmuck had lost his figure of eight at this point and did not want to be on his own. Rech, Gerhard Eckhart and Laengerer overtook them at one point and descended to C3. Apart from Andreas Eckhart and Schmuck, everyone was back at C3 at about 6 pm. 

  At about 8:30 pm, Schmuck and Andreas Eckhart, who had been fine up until then, called C3 by radio to tell them that they were in trouble. Their headlamps had run out of batteries and they had trouble abseiling. Andreas Eckhart had also lost one of his gloves. Chuldim went up for about 100m to rescue them. He used the emergency oxygen to go up and arrived there at 9 pm. He gave Andreas Eckhart oxygen and dragged him down to C3. Schmuck was able to descend himself.

  At about 10 pm everybody was at C3. During the night, Andreas Eckhart's fingers turned blue and it was clear that he got frostbite. At 8 am on 3 Oct, the team left C3 (Andreas Eckhart was using oxygen and had trouble with his hands and needed support) and descended to C1. Schmuck and Laengerer descended directly to BC, where they arrived 6:30 pm. Schmuck, who had played the trumpet on the summit, noticed that he had slight frostbite on three fingers on the left hand. Mueller and Gerhard and Andreas Eckhart were together, and arrived at C1 at about 6 pm. After about half an hour, Mueller ascended again to get Rech and Villarroel. They arrived at C1 at about 9 pm.

  On 4 Oct, Andreas Eckhart woke up at C1 with serious frostbite on all 10 fingers and toes and was snowblind. He had run out of oxygen during the night. Mueller radioed Pema to come up with oxygen, drinks and food and to help bring Andreas Eckhart down. The team left C1 at about 9 am and met Pemba at about 6100m. On the bottom of the killer slope, 20 Tibetans, who had been hired by Chuldim, arrived and carried Andreas Eckhart to ABC.

  On 5 Oct, the 20 Tibetans dragged Andreas Eckhart down to the roadhead, from where Gerhard and Andreas Eckhart, Schmuck and Villarroel took the first jeep to Zangmu, where they spent the night. The arrived in Kathmandu on 6 Oct. Rech, Lanegerer and Mueller stayed at ABC until 6 Oct and arrived back in Kathmandu on 7 Oct.

  Schmuck and Andreas Eckhart immediately went to the Vayodha hospital, where both patients stayed the night. Schmuck left Kathmandu on 7 Oct (his fingers will be fine). Andreas Eckhart spent three nights in hospital and left Kathmandu together with Gerhard on 9 Oct.

  Oxygen: 
    Medical oxygen taken and used by Chuldim Sherpa from C3 to Yellow Band;
    by Andreas Eckhart on the descent from Yellow Band (7650m) to ABC.

  Sherpas:
    Chuldim Sherpa, Khumjung, Khumbu, 10/09/1971
    Pema Nuru, Paiya, Jubing, Solukhumbu, 27/01/1975


expid: CHOY13306
peakid: CHOY
year: 2013
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Fernando Garrido
sponsor: Aragon Aventura Cho Oyu Expedition 2013
bcdate: 2013-09-10
smtdate: 2013-10-01
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2013-10-04
campsites: BC(10/09,4800m),ABC(13/09,5700m),C1(18/09,6400m),C2(23/09,7150m),C3(30/09,7550m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  The summit party of four members and two Sherpas set out from the summit at midnight of September 30/1 October. They were Alia, Bermejo, Garrido and Heredia with Sherpas Ang Geljen and Jangbu. They stood on the top together at 8:30 am of the 1st and descended together to C2 at about 2:00 pm, tired but happy.

  They had good weather on their summit day, but that night the weather changed dramatically and became very windy and cold.

  One member did not go for the top: Casado reached 6800m on 19 September, but turned around because she was too cold and tired. She descended to ABC and stayed there during the rest of the climb. 

  Sherpas:
    Ang Geljen (aka Rinji), 24/6/73, Kharikhola, Everest X3
    Jangbu, 19/9/79, Kharikhola, Annapurna I X1, Everest X3, Kangch X1


expid: CHOY13307
peakid: CHOY
year: 2013
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Laurent Vivien Raguet
sponsor: Terres d'Adventure Cho Oyu Expedition 2013
approach: Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2013-09-10
smtdate: 2013-10-01
smttime: 0645
termdate: 2013-10-04
campsites: BC(10/09,4600m),ABC(13/09,5700m),C1(16/09,6400m),C2(22/09,7100m),C3(30/09,7500m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Adventure 6000
routememo:
  BC  10 Sep  4600m
  ABC 13 Sep  5700m
  C1	16 Sep  6400m		
  C2	22 Sep  7100m
  C3	30 Sep  7500m	
  Smt 01 Oct  by Vivien Raguet and Ang Gyalzen Sherpa at 6:45 am, Briol and Lhakpa 
              Tshering Sherpa at 8 am (NST)

  On 30 Sept summit team left C3 at 11:15 pm. Weather and conditions were good. They spent 40 minutes on the summit and descended to C1, where they arrived at 5:30 pm. On 2 Oct they descended to ABC.

  Braun, Cyrille, Oder and Bruno reached C1 on 16 Sept. Braun felt altitude sickness; Cyrille's wife was expecting a baby and he decided to abandon the expedition. Oder was scared to climb given the amount of snow on the mountain and Puntel had an inflammation in his leg. They all spent one night at C1, descended to ABC on 17 Sept and left the expedition on 24 Sept.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Gyalzen, Garma-3, 18/03/1983
    Lhakpa Thsering, Namche, Khumbu, 11/11/1983


expid: CHOY13308
peakid: CHOY
year: 2013
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Adrian Ballinger
sponsor: Alpenglow Cho Oyu Expedition 2013
countries: Russia
approach: Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2013-09-09
smtdate: 2013-09-25
smttime: 1240
termdate: 2013-09-27
campsites: BC(09/09,4600m),ABC(11/09,5700m),C1(17/09,6400m),Smt(25/09)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  09 Sep  4600m
  ABC 11 Sep  5700m
  C1  17 Sep  6400m		
  C2  24 Sep  7100m
  Smt 25 Sep  by Ballinger, Baranov, Pasang Bhote, Namgyal at 12:40 pm (NST)

  Team left C2 at 2 am. The weather was warm and windless. On their way up, Ballinger, Namgyal and Pasang Bhote fixed the entire line from C2 to summit and used about 800m of rope. Lhakpa Rita (from the Alpine Ascents team) fixed with them to just above the Yellow Band and then descended to C2 to meet his group.

  They spent about 40 minutes on the summit and saw Everest. They descended on skies to C1 and then continued by foot to ABC, where they arrived at 8:30 pm.

  They skied a line far left of the climbing line and were able to ski through the Yellow Band without rappel, and direct into C2 (not passing C3). They also skied the icefall between C1 and C2, which Ballinger said was quite easy this year.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C2 to summit to C2 by members (4 litres flow rate) and
    Sherpas (2 litres flow rate)

  Sherpas:
    Namgyal, 25/09/71, Khiraunle, Bung-9, Solu
    Pasang Bhote, 30/11/73, Chepuwa-1, Makalu-Barun


expid: CHOY13309
peakid: CHOY
year: 2013
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Stephan Keck
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Cho Oyu Expedition 2013
countries: Austria
approach: Lhasa->Tingri->CBC
bcdate: 2013-09-07
smtdate: 2013-10-01
smttime: 0915
termdate: 2013-10-04
campsites: BC(07/09,5000m),ABC(09/09,5700m),C1(12/09,6350m),C2(19/09,7050m),C3(30/09,7450m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  BC  07 Sep  5000m
  ABC 09 Sep  5700m
  C1  12 Sep  6350m	
  C2  19 Sep  7050m
  C3  30 Sep  7450m	
  Smt 01 Oct  by Reichart and Kusang Tenzing at 9:15 am, Sander and Ngima Chhiring
              at 9:30 am, Keck and Renner at 9:45 am, Birnbauer, Grade and Ngima
              Chhiring (again) at 1 pm (NST).

  Summit team left C3 at 1 am Nepali time. The weather was clear, but surrounding mountains were in clouds. Straightforward climb. The first team stayed about one hour on the summit. On their way down, the first team bumped into Birnbraeuer and Grade, who were still on their way up at about 11 am. Ngima Chhiring turned around and went back to the summit with them, thus Ngima Chhiring summited twice in one day.

  Everybody, apart from Grade and Keck, descended to C2, where they arrived at about 6 pm. Grade descended to C3, where he arrived at 6 pm; Keck descended to ABC, where he arrived at 1 am on 2 Oct.

  Ehrlicher reached C2 on 19 Sept during the acclimatization rotation. On 29 Sept he abandoned the climb at about 6700m due to a bad headache.

  On 2 Oct everybody was back at ABC at about 3 pm.

  Sherpas:
    Ngima Chhiring Lama, Taplejung, 15/8/73
    Kusang Tenzing, Ghunsa, Lelep-9, Taplejung, 16/5/86


expid: MANA13316
peakid: MANA
year: 2013
route1: NE Face
nation: Slovakia
leaders: Juraj Rebro
sponsor: Slovakian Manaslu
approach: Arughat->Samagaon
bcdate: 2013-09-07
smtdate: 2013-09-25
smttime: 1530
termdate: 2013-09-27
campsites: BC(07/09,4700m),C1(10/09,5700m),C2(14/09,6400m),C3(18/09,6800m),C4(24/09,7400m),Smt(25/09)
agency: Nepal Trans Himalayan Explorer
routememo:
  BC  07 Sep  4700m
  C1  10 Sep  5700m
  C2  14 Sep  6400m
  C3  18 Sep  6800m
  C4  24 Sep  7400m
  Smt	25 Sep  by Pastor at 3:30 pm

  Pastor and Rebro left C4 at 3 am on 25 Sept. Many people were ahead of them. When Rebro reached 7900m at 1:40 pm, he decided to turn back as it was already late in the day and his rule was to reach the summit by 2 pm. He descended to C4, where he arrived at about 4:30 pm. Pastor continued and reached the summit at 3:30 pm. He stayed on the summit for 10 minutes and started this descent. There were some skiers and a couple of Sherpas; however they were faster and then he was alone on the route. He intended to go to C4, but could not find it. He must have gone too far to the left. At about 5 pm Pastor radioed Rebro to ask him to switch on the light in the tent so he could not find it. At 1 am on 2 Sept he established a bivouac between two big rocks on a saddle at about 7800m (last radio contact with Rebro) and slept until 5:30 am on 26 Sept. Rebro tried to radio Pastor, but he could not get through. Rebro stayed up all night looking for Pastor around C4, but he was too tired to go higher up. On 26 Sept Rebro descended to C1, where he arrived at about 9 pm and stayed the night. On 27 Sept he descended to BC.

  Pastor in the meantime descended from his first bivouac and reached a plateau and an ice cliff, which was impossible to climb down, so he turned back and climbed up again. It was cloudy and he was still not sure where he was. He made a second bivouac at about 7400m and started to look for C4 again the next morning, on 27 Sept. Around 11 am, Ang Phurba from another team found Pastor. Ang Phurba gave Pastor oxygen and they descended to C4. It took them about 40 minutes to get there. They continued to C3, where Pastor was picked up by helicopter and taken to Samagaon and then to Kathmandu. Rebro descended to Samagaon on 28 Sept and was picked up by helicopter on 29 Sept.

  Pastor went straight to hospital, where they checked him thoroughly, but he is fine. He did not even suffer frostbite despite having been up there for two nights without oxygen.

  Oxygen: Used from 7800m to C3 by Pastor


expid: PUMO13301
peakid: PUMO
year: 2013
route1: W Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Sebastien de Sainte Marie
sponsor: Pumori Expedition
countries: UK
approach: Pangboche->Lobuche
bcdate: 2013-09-15
smtdate: 2013-09-27
termdate: 2013-09-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to bad weather and snow; no partner
campsites: BC(15/09,5300m),ABC(19/09,5700m),xxx(27/09,6100m)
agency: Wild Yak Expeditions
routememo:
  BC  15 Sep  5300m, 1-1/2 hours outside Gorak Shep at lake
  ABC 19 Sep  5700m, behind Kalapattar
  HPt 27 Sep  6100m by de Sainte Marie

  On 19 Sept de Sainte Marie stayed the night at ABC at 5700m and descended to BC on 20 Sept. On 21 Sept de Sainte Marie carried his gear to ABC and stayed the night. On 22 Sept he climbed up a ridge behind a Kalapattar, where he reached the very top, which was about 6200m. He left ABC at 8:30 am and got to the top of the ridge at 11:30 am. He stayed up there for half an hour to wait for better weather, but it did not really clear. He skied down the ridge (the upper slope was about 55 degrees) and arrived at ABC about half an hour later.

  Rufibach filmed him from ABC and the two descended to BC, where de Sainte Marie stayed for two nights. On 27 Sept de Sainte Marie went back to ABC to attempt Pumori. On 28 Sept, he left ABC at 6 am. It was pretty cloudy and visibility was not very good. When he reached a serac at 6100m, he decided to turn back as the weather and snow conditions were too bad to carry on. He thinks that the face does not get enough sun and the snow was just too hard. From his high point he skied down to ABC. On 29 Sept he carried his gear to BC and left BC on 30 Sept.

  Rufibach reached 5800m on 22 Sept and 27 Sept. He never intended to climb to the summit as he was employed as cameraman.

  Holding reached 5700m on 18 Sept. He had back problems and left expedition on 23 Sept.


expid: MANA13332
peakid: MANA
year: 2013
route1: NE Face
nation: Poland
leaders: Ryszard Pawlowski
sponsor: Patagonia Mountain Agency (PMA) Manaslu Expedition 2013
countries: Germany
bcdate: 2013-09-28
smtdate: 2013-10-09
termdate: 2013-10-13
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(28/09,4800m),C1(01/10,5800m),C2(08/10,6400m),C3(09/10,6800m),xxx(09/10,6800m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Two members and three Sherpas climbed up to C3 on 9 October and then went down to rest.

  This turned out to be the team's high point: very bad weather now set in: heavy snowfall, even rain, and strong winds. They decided to abandon the climb on 11 October.

  Those who reached C3 were Krysztof Stasiak, Ryszard Pawlowski, Lakpa Chhiri Sherpa, Naga Dorje Sherpa and Samden Bhote.

  The members and Sherpas no health problems, although Andrej Wojda fell in a crevasse when a snow bridge collapsed under his weight. He fell only five or six meters: he was saved by a fixed rope. This incident took place at 6000m when he was going up from C1 to C2 on 9 October.

  Sherpas:
    Lakpa Chhiri Sherpa, 17/11/74, Pangboche, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X1
    Naga Dorje Sherpa, 30/12/66, Khumjung, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X3
    Samden (Sonam) Bhote, (9/4/2036) 25/7/1979, Hatiya-2


expid: MANA13326
peakid: MANA
year: 2013
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Javier Camacho
sponsor: Two Spaniards on Manaslu
approach: Samagaon
bcdate: 2013-09-13
smtdate: 2013-10-02
termdate: 2013-10-06
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to too much wind and snowfall
campsites: BC(13/09,4700m),C1(15/09,5700m),C2(16/10,6400m),C3(01/10,6700m),C4(02/10,7400m),xxx
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  BC  13 Sep  4700m
  C1  15 Sep  5700m
  C2  16 Sep  6400m
  C3  01 Oct  6700m
  C4  02 Oct  7450m
  HPt 02 Oct  7450m by Camacho, Zabalo-Sainz.

  Team intended to summit on 3 Oct, but the wind got too strong and they decided not to attempt. They left C4 at 8 am on 3 Oct and descended to BC, where they arrived at 5 pm. The team was climbing with Mario Andrighettoni's team and the dates are identical.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


expid: MANA13328
peakid: MANA
year: 2013
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Xavier Arias
sponsor: A Spaniard on Manaslu
bcdate: 2013-09-14
smtdate: 2013-10-02
termdate: 2013-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to too much wind and snowfall
campsites: BC(14/09,4700m),C1(17/09,5800m),C2(23/09,6400m),C3(01/10,6800m),C4(02/10,7400m),xxx
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  14 Sep  4700m
  C1  17 Sep  5800m
  C2  23 Sep  6400m
  C3  01 Sep  6800m
  C4  02 Sep  7400m
  HPt 02 Oct  7400m by Arias

  Summit attempt was supposed to be on 3 Oct, but a big storm came up at 1 am and going to the summit was out of the question. He waited until 10 am, but the weather did not improve and so he decided to go down. He descended to BC, where he arrived at 2 pm.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


expid: MANA13329
peakid: MANA
year: 2013
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Ignacio Barrio Fernanadez
sponsor: Spaniards to Manaslu
approach: Samagaon
bcdate: 2013-09-09
smtdate: 2013-10-02
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2013-10-04
campsites: BC(09/09,4900m),C1(12/09,5690m),C2(15/09,6120m),C3(16/09,6700m),C4(01/10,7400m),Smt(02/10)
agency: Himalayan Wanderer
routememo:
  BC  09 Sep  4900m
  C1  12 Sep  5690m	
  C2  15 Sep  6120m
  C3  16 Sep  6700m
  Ca4 01 Oct  7400m
  Smt 02 Oct  Barrio, Murolas, Dawa Sange Sherpa at 10 am.

  Team left C4 at 3 am. Weather was clear, but a bit windy. They spent about half an hour on the summit. Weather changeable. They descended to C3, where they arrived at 4 pm. On 3 Oct to BC.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used

  Sherpa:
    Dawa Sange, Makalu-9, Makalu-Barun, 25/08/1985


expid: MANA13330
peakid: MANA
year: 2013
route1: NE Face
nation: Venezuela
leaders: Alejandro Lamus
sponsor: Venezuelan on the 8th Highest Mountain of the World
approach: Samagaon
bcdate: 2013-09-14
smtdate: 2013-10-02
termdate: 2013-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to too much wind and snowfall
campsites: BC(14/09,4800m),C1(17/09,5700m),C2(20/09,6400m),C3(01/10,6800m),C4(02/10,7400m),xxx
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  14 Sep  4800m
  C1  17 Sep  5700m	
  C2  20 Sep  6400m
  C3  01 Oct  6800m	
  C4  02 Oct  7400m
  HPt 02 Oct  7400m by Lamus.

  Lamus wanted to leave for the summit at 3 am, but it was too windy and snowy and they abandoned their summit attempt. He left C44 at 9 am and descended to C2, where he arrived at 3 pm. On 04 Oct to BC.

  Guariguata reached C2 on 20 Sep on acclimatization rotation. He did not go on the summit push as he did not feel well and was mentally not strong enough.


