# exped

expid: LHOT18115
peakid: LHOT
year: 2018
route1: S Col-W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Willie Benegas
sponsor: Benegas Brothers Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2018
countries: Uruguay
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-16
smtdate: 2018-05-21
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2018-05-24
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-181-34)
agency: High Altitude Dreams
primid: EVER18134
campsites:
  BC(16/04,5350m),C127/04,5900m(),C2(05/05,6440m),C3(18/05,7000m),C4(19/05,7900m),EVER.Smt(20/05),LHOT.Smt(21/05)

routememo:
  BC  16/04  5350m
  C1  27/04  5900m
  C2  05/05  6440m
  C3  18/05  7000m
  C4  19/05  7900m
  Ever Smt 20/05 by Moniz and Willie Benegas at 5:05 am.

  Team left C4 at 9:30 pm. They were intending to leave at 11:30 pm, but the iPhone had picked up Chinese time so they got the time wrong. They reached the South Summit at 2:30 am. Benegas found a cave where they could wait for about one hour.

  Damian Benegas and Enrique Clausen stayed at the South Col while Moniz and Benegas with the Sherpas summited Everest. Damian spent a few hours collecting rubbish. Clausen carried some gear down to Lhotse C4.

  Summit team spent about 10 minutes on the summit. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 9 am. On 21/05, Benegas brothers, Moniz, Clausen, Dawa Gyalzen and Lobsang left Everest C4 at 5:45 am. They went to the old Lhotse C4 at about 7700m. Damian Benegas cut the rope the Czech climber who died in 2012 was attached to. The body did not move, but it will probably disappear over the next months.

  Lhot Smt 21/05 by Moniz, Willie and Damian Benegas, Clausen, Dawa Gyalzen Sherpa
                 and Lobsang Sherpa at 11 am.

  They spend about half an hour on the summit. They descended to C4, picked up the gear and reached C2 at 3:45 pm.

  Willie Benegas flew back to C2 on 22/05 (after flying back to Namche with Damai Sarki's body on 21/05), and the whole team descended to BC (cleaned their camps).

  Team left BC on 24/05 by heli.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members and Sherpas.


  Damai Sarki's crevasse fall on 21/05:

  According to Willie Benegas, Damai Sarki was directing the helicopter who had landed in line with a crevasse right next to it. When he stepped back he fell into the crevasse, which was about body-width. It was about 5 pm. This differs from Santalena's account who said that Damai Sarki was on his knees and blown into the crevasse by the force of the wind of the helicopter.

  Nobody really noticed that he was gone. The Sherpas tried to fish him out with a rope, but that did not work. Damian and Willie set up the anchor, Willie descended into the crevasse and brought him up. The helicopter was already waiting (Maurizio Folini) and Willie flew out of C2 with Damai Sarki directly to Namche. They went to hospital, but he could not be saved, Willie thinks he stopped breathing at about 10:45 pm.


expid: LHOT18116
peakid: LHOT
year: 2018
route1: S Col-W Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Kenji Kondo
sponsor: Adventure Guides Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Lobuche Peak->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-26
smtdate: 2018-05-21
termdate: 2018-05-24
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-181-61)
agency: Cosmo Treks
primid: EVER18161
campsites:
  BC(26/04,5350m),C1(01/05,6000m),C2(03/05,6400m),C3(18/05,7100m),C4(19/05,7950m),EVER.Smt(20/05),LHOT.Smt(21/05)

routememo:
  Plan: Group will try to climb Everest first and Lhotse immediately after. Their plan is to sleep 2 nights at South Col after Everest and traverse from South Col to the Lhotse couloir (Urubko route), joining the normal route eventually. Descent via normal route of Lhotse.

  Lhotse: Toyohara smt 21/05, Fukunaga to 8350m?


expid: LHOT18117
peakid: LHOT
year: 2018
route1: S Col-W Face
nation: China
leaders: Bao Yi-Fei
sponsor: Summit Experience Climbing Team Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-17
smtdate: 2018-05-21
smttime: 0715
termdate: 2018-05-21
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-181-37)
agency: Sherpa Khangri Outdoor
primid: EVER18137
campsites:
  BC(17/04,5350m),C1(26/04,5900m),C2(27/04,6400m),C3(29/04,7200m),C4(18/05,7900m),EVER.Smt(19/05),LHOT.C4(20/05,7700m),LHOT.Smt(21/05)

routememo:
  BC  17/04  5350m
  C1  26/04  5900m
  C2  27/04  6400m
  C3  29/04  7200m
  C4  18/05  7900m
  Smt 19/05  by Ma Yan and Singe Tamang (Everest).

  Summit team at 8:30 pm on 18/05. It was a busy day. It was about -30C. They stayed between 15 and 30 minutes on the summit, then descended to C4.

  On 20/05 Ma Yan and Singe Tamang traversed to Lhotse C4, where they stayed the night. They left C4 at around midnight.

  Lhotse C4  20/05  7700m
  Lhotse Smt 21/05  by Ma Yan and Singe Tamang at 7:15 am.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 or C2 by all members
    From C4 to summit to C4 by Sherpas.


expid: LHOT18118
peakid: LHOT
year: 2018
route1: W Face
nation: Israel
leaders: Danny Gordin
sponsor: Israeli to Lhotse
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-05-08
smtdate: 2018-05-19
termdate: 2018-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to exhaustion
campsites: BC(08/05,5350m),C1(10/05,5900m),C2(13/05,6400m),C3(17/05,7200m),C4(18/05,7700m),xxx(19/05,8100m)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  BC  08/05  5350m
  C1  10/05  5900m
  C2  13/05  6400m
  C3  17/05  7200m
  C4  18/05  7700m
  HPt 19/05  8100m

  Gordin launched his summit push together with Victor Rimac from Peru. The pair left C4 at 11 pm on 18/05. Gordin turned back at around 8100m due to exhaustion. On his descent he stopped at C4 and waited for Rimac to return from his summit push. The two then continued to C2.

  Gordin left BC on 21/05 by heli.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


expid: LHOT18119
peakid: LHOT
year: 2018
route1: W Face
nation: Peru
leaders: Victor Rimac
sponsor: Rimac Lhotse Expedition 2018
approach: Everest BC by helicopter
bcdate: 2018-04-27
smtdate: 2018-05-19
termdate: 2018-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 8480m due to mental fatique and strong winds
campsites: BC(27/04,5350m),C2(30/04,6400m),C3(07/05,7200m),C4(17/05,7700m),xxx(19/05,8480m)
agency: Alpine Sherpa Guide Treks
routememo:
  BC  27/04  5350m by helicopter
  C1   --     -
  C2  30/04  6400m (spent 3 nights at C2)
  C3  07/05  7200m
  C4  17/05  7700m
  HPt 19/05  8480m by Rimac

  On 16/05, Rimac saw the Rustem Amirov (Russian who died on Lhotse) about 80m above his camp. He was sitting there attached to the fixed rope. Ang Dawa and another Sherpa were with Rimac in the tent (they were with Alpine Sherpa Guide Treks and had two clients for Everest). At about 8:30 am he went up to the Russian together with the two Sherpas and brought him down. He was very sick. He already had bad frostbite on his fingers and was unable to talk. They pulled him down to a tent at C3. Rimac injected dexamethasone and stayed with him for two hours. He asked people who were going past the tent whether they had any oxygen for him to help the Russian climber, but nobody responded. The Russian died at around 10:45 am.

  At 11 am Rimac ascended to C4, where he arrived at 4 pm. He stayed at C4 on 18/05 to rest and left C4 at 11 pm. He was with Danny Gordin from Israel. When Rimac reached 8480m he had too many things in his head and he decided to descend. It was about 10 am. He descended to C2, where he arrived at 5 pm.

  Danny Gordin who was also climbing without oxygen turned back at about 8200m as he was too tired.

  When he was at C2, he saw Kuriki's fall.

  Rimac left BC on 21/05 by heli.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


expid: LHOT18120
peakid: LHOT
year: 2018
route1: W Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Mingma Gyalje Sherpa
sponsor: Imagine Nepal Lhotse 2018
countries: China
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-09
smtdate: 2018-04-29
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2018-05-16
campsites: BC(09/04,5350m),C1(20/04,6000m),C2(21/04,6400m),C3,C4(28/04,7700m),Smt(29/04)
agency: Imagine Nepal
routememo:
  BC  09/04  5350m
  C1  20/04  6000m
  C2  21/04  6400m
  C3   ??     ??
  C4  28/04  7700m
  Smt 29/04  by Mingma Gyalje, Liu Yong-Zhong Liu, Dong Hong-Juan, 
             Kili Pemba Sherpa, Tamding Sherpa, Nima Jangbu at 11:30 am,

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to smt to C3 (presumed).

  Sherpas:
    Mingma Gyalje Sherpa, Beding, 14/04/1986
    Kili Pemba Sherpa, Beding, 15/05/1980
    Tamding (Tamtin) Sherpa, Beding, 20/12/1974
    Nima Jangmu Sherpa, Beding (female, Mingma Gyalje's sister)


  From The Himalayan Times - 29 April 2018

  According to Imagine Treks and Expedition, climber Mingma Gyalje Sherpa along with three fellow Sherpas and two Chinese climbers made it to the top of Mt. Lhotse (8516m) this morning. “We are on Mt. Lhotse summit now,” Sherpa shared.

  A rope-fixing team deployed by the Himalayan Guides has opened a route up to 7800m on Everest while another team led by Sherpa fixed ropes to the summit point on Lhotse. Chinese climbers, Liu Yong-Zhong and Hong Dong-Juan, as well as Kili Pemba Sherpa, Tamding Sherpa and female climber Nima Jangmu Sherpa successfully climbed the peak at around 11:30 am.


expid: LHOT18121
peakid: LHOT
year: 2018
route1: W Face
nation: Poland
leaders: Sylwia Bajek
sponsor: Pioneer Adventure Lhotse Expedition 2018
countries: Australia, China, India, Mongolia, Taiwan
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
smtdate: 2018-05-16
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(16/05,22/05)
agency: Pioneer Adventure
routememo:
  From Pioneer Adventure:

  Mount Lhotse (8516m) Expedition organized by Pioneer Adventure successfully made summit to the three women climbers on 16th May, 2018. Taiwanese climber Chan Chiao-Yu, Sylwia Bajek (Poland) and Priyanka Mangesh (India) along with their climbing guides – Lakpa Sherpa, Pasang Sherpa and Nima Thenduk Sherpa stood atop the world’s fourth highest mountain. 


expid: LHOT18122
peakid: LHOT
year: 2018
route1: W Face
nation: Canada
leaders: Caroline Jette
sponsor: Satori Adventures Lhotse Expedition 2018
countries: India, Japan, Mexico
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
smtdate: 2018-05-15
smttime: 1200
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(15/05)
agency: Satori Adventures
routememo:
  From Satori Adventures blog:

  Successful Mt. Lhotse Expedition – Spring 2018

  It is pleasure to share among you that Satori adventures and Expedition team reached the top of Mt. Lhotse. Six climbing Sherpa guides and 05 climbing members were reached on the top at 12:00 pm on 15 of May 2018. Congratulations! For both climbing Sherpa guide and team members for their successful summit climbing.

  The  team leader MS. JETTE CAROLINE from Canada, climbing members MR. ST. GERMAIN SYLVAIN from Canada, MR. JOISHER KUNTAL AJIT from India, 80 Year Old climber Mr.  MATSUMOTO TATSUO from Japan, MR. SHARMA BRIJ MOHAN from India with Sirdar  Mingma Tenji Sherpa, Thuktang Sherpa, Pema Sherpa, Phurbu Kusang Sherpa, Lakpa Tenje Sherpa, Pemba Oingdi Sherpa, Pasang Tendi Sherpa, Phurba Sherpa were ascended the peak successfully. Now both climbing Sherpa guide and climbing team are descending down to camp three or as much down as possible. Congratulations once again to both climbing Sherpa guides and climbing members for bringing successful result.


  David Liano was a client of Asian Trekking on the Satori Adventures permit.


expid: LHOT18124
peakid: LHOT
year: 2018
route1: S Col-W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Craig Van Hoy
sponsor: Mountain Tribes Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2018
countries: UK
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-08
smtdate: 2018-05-18
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2018-05-20
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-181-47)
agency: Mountain Tribes Trekking (High Alt Dreams pmt)
primid: EVER18147
campsites:
  BC(08/04,5350m),C1(24/04,5900m),C2(26/05,6440m),C3(15/05,7000m),C4(16/05,7900m),EVER.Smt(17/05),LHOT.Smt(18/05)

routememo:
  BC  08/04  5350m
  C1  24/04  5900m
  C2  26/05  6440m
  C3  15/05  7000m
  C4  16/05  7900m
  Smt 17/05  Blakely, Ang Gelu Sherpa at 7:48 am.

  Lhotse Smt 18/05 by Blakely, Ang Gelu at 11 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 11 pm on 16/05. Straightforward climb. They spent about 30 minutes on the summit. They descended to C4, where they arrived about 1:30 pm.

  On 18/05 Blakeley and Ang Gelu left C4 at 4:30 am, traversed to Lhotse C4, where they arrived at 5:30 am and continued straight to Lhotse summit. They spent about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at 6 pm.

  Van Craig was BC manager.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to both tops to C3 by Sherpas and Blakely.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Gelu, Phedi-9, Khotang, 28/04/1986


expid: LHOT18125
peakid: LHOT
year: 2018
route1: W Face
nation: Russia
leaders: Rustem Amirov
sponsor: Russian Solo Lhotse Expedition 2018
smtdate: 2018-05-15
termnote: Abandoned at 8400m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(5350m),C16100m),C(6400m),C3(09/05,7300m),xxx(15/04,8400m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  From Himalayan Times - 18 May 2018

  KATHMANDU: A Russian climber died of altitude sickness on Mt Lhotse yesterday, according a government official.

  Gyanendra Shrestha, liaison officer at the Ministry of Culture Tourism and Civil Aviation, confirmed that Rustem Amirov breathed his last at Camp 2 of the world’s fourth highest peak.

  A Facebook post by his family read, “Clever and strong as he was, he turned around just 100 metres from the summit due to bad weather. The bad weather slowed his descent. At some point above Camp 3, he suffered from acute mountain sickness. High altitude porters were sent to rescue him, and help him down to Camp 2.

  Unfortunately it was too late. He was unconscious when he passed away and didn’t suffer any pain, if that is of any consolation.”


  From Oxana Morneva - 28 May 2018

  Rustem Amirov - dead Russian on Lhotse

  Arrived at C4 on 15/05 and was looking for Chatur and Oxana Morneva. He said he did not have tent, sleeping bag or mattress. He asked to sleep in their tent. Pasang Dorje said took him into his tent. Pasang Dorje said that he could stay with them until SST Sherpas arrived and made a tent. There were five people in the tent. Rustem left the tent and SST Sherpas set up a tent where he moved into at around 7 pm. Rustem died on 16/05 at C3.

  Chatur saw him on 16/05 in the morning and Ruskin's face was already blue. Chatur told him to go down as he would die otherwise (as he did).


  From Victor Rimac - 26 May 2018

  On 16/05, Rimac saw the Rustem Amirov (Russian who died on Lhotse) about 80m above his camp. He was sitting there attached to the fixed rope. Ang Dawa and another Sherpa were with Rimac in the tent (they were with Alpine Sherpa Guide Treks and had two clients for Everest). At about 8:30 am he went up to the Russian together with the two Sherpas and brought him down. He was very sick. He already had bad frostbite on his fingers and was unable to talk. They pulled him down to a tent at C3. Rimac injected dexamethasone and stayed with him for two hours. He asked people who were going past the tent whether they had any oxygen for him to help the Russian climber, but nobody responded. The Russian died at around 10:45 am.


expid: MAKA18101
peakid: MAKA
year: 2018
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Jesus Morales Manzanares
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Makalu Expedition 2018
countries: Australia, Costa Rica, Germany, Italy, Peru, Poland, Romania
approach: Flight to Tumlingtar, Jeep to Num, trekked to BC
bcdate: 2018-04-10
smtdate: 2018-05-13
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2018-05-31
campsites: BC(10/04,4800m),C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(13-14,24/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Seven Summit Treks Makalu expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Seven Summits provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Nil Angli (Spain)

  Appr:  Flight to Tumlingtar, Jeep to Num, trekked to BC
  Camps: BC(13/04,4800m),ABC(15/04,5700m),C1(20/04,5900m),C2(21/04,6000m),
         C3(12/05,7500m),xxx(13/05,8100m)
  Left:  16/05/2018
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned at 8100m due to lost jumar.

  Summit attempt between the 13/05 and 14/05. The summit bid was w/o O2. All was going well, but at some point between 8000-8100m when clipping the jumar to the harness, it slipped from the carabiner (I still do not know how) and fell down the slope. Without a jumar, I deemed it too risky to climb the French Couloir and I went down. I left ABC on the 16 July together with Valerio Annovazzi, who had serious frostbite.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


  Valerio Annovazzi (Italy)

  Appr:  Flight to Tumlingtar, Jeep to Num, trekked to BC
  Camps: BC(16/04,4800m),ABC(18/04,5700m),C2(24/04,6000m),C3(13/05,7500m),
         xxx(14/05,8100m)
  Left:  16/05/2018
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 8100m due to cold hands and feet

  Team of Annovazzi and Dorje Sherpa started from C3 at 1 am. Weather was cold, but clear. At about 8100m Annovazzi noticed that his hands and feet were cold. The pair descended to C3, where they stayed the night. On 15/05, they reached ABC and on 16 May he was flown to Kathmandu.

  He has to stay at the CIWEC clinic for four nights due to frostbite on both hands and both feet.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


  Enrico Cambini (Italy)

  Appr:  Flight to Tumlingtar, Jeep to Num, trekked to BC
  Camps: BC(23/04,4800m),ABC(24/04,5600m),C1(29/04,6100m),xxx
  Left:  04/05/2018
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 6100m due to feeling unwell and predicted bad weather forcast.

  Cambini was not well during the entire climb and as the weather forecast predicted bad weather, he decided to abandon the expedition.

  Oxygen: Taken, not used


  Lech Flaczynski (Poland)
  Wojciech Flaczynski (Poland)

  Appr:  Flight to Tumlingtar, jeep to Num, trekked to BC
  Camps: BC(10/04,4800m),ABC(12/04,5600m),C1(14/04,6100m),C2(15/05,6700m),
         C3(28/04,7400m),C4(23/05,7700m),Smt(24/05)
  Left:  31/05/2018 (evacuated from C2)
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Success

  Father (Lech) and son (Wojciech) left C4 at 11 pm on 23/05. The weather was calm and clear. Deep snow and they had trouble finding the fixed ropes. Even though Wojciech was not using supplemental oxygen, he was quicker than Lech. He continued and according to Lech he could no longer see his son in the French Couloir as he was far a head. When he reached the end of the French Couloir and stepped on the summit plateau, Lech decided to turn back as he thought it was too late to continue to the summit. He thinks it was about 4 pm. He tried to radio his son but could not find him so he started to descend. At about 10 pm Wojciech had caught up with his father and shortly afterwards, Lech lost his headlamp. They tried to descend together for a while, but it was too dark so they bivouacked out in the open at about 8150m. They spent the night there and Wojciech kept got up every once in a while, descended for 20m and ascended again to keep warm. As Lech was running out of oxygen, Wojciech remembered the three bottles that were hanging on a fixed rope about 50m higher up and as they were the last team on the mountain he ascended and collected the three bottles and brought them down to his father. 

  On 25/05 at sunrise they continued their descent to C4 and reached it quite late in the day. Lech felt a bit confused and fortunately they had taken the extra oxygen from the fixed ropes as Lech would have been in real trouble if he had not had oxygen. They boiled some water, but had hardly any food up there. And then the winds picked up and the pair was stuck at C4 for three nights! Winds were up to about 95km/h.

  On 27/05 the wind started to die down to about 40km/h and they descended to the Makalu La (C3). However, as neither of them had taken an ice axe with them (they had left them at C3 as they thought they could climb an 8000m peak without an ice axe and with a ski pole only!!!), they found the descent on blue ice with no fixed rope quite challenging. It took them a long time to get to the Makalu La.

  On 28/05 they descended to C2. They were both very tired and when they reached C2, Lech had a very bad stomach. It was so bad that he was screaming. On 29/05 they asked Lakpa, who was at BC, to come up and help them, but it became obvious very quickly that Lech would be unable to descend on his own. They contacted Sonam at BC to organise a helicopter to pick him up. On 30/05, the weather was good on Makalu, but bad in the Kathmandu valley and a rescue was impossible. Finally, the helicopter picked them up from C2 on 31 May at 8 am.

  They picked up Richard Hidalgo from BC and flew via Lukla to Kathmandu. Lech Flaczynski is currently at ERA hospital in Naya Bazaar, but they have not diagnosed him with anything.

  Left BC on 31/05 (evacuated from C2 by helicopter).

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used by Lech from C4 to high point to C2; Wojciech did NOT use oxygen.


  Richard Hidalgo (Peru)

  Appr:  Lobuche, heli from Dingboche to Makalu ABC
  Camps: ABC(09/05,5700m),C2(12,21/05,6600m),C3(23/05,7500m),xxx(24/05,7900m)
  Left:  31/05/2018 by helicopter
  Hired: 
  Term:  Abandoned at 7900m due to bad weather, too much wind, no time

  Weather forecast was good for 24/05 according to the Polish weather forecast, which said it was zero wind. He was climbing with the Flaczynski's and he stayed at C2 for two nights while the Faczynski's went up to C3 on 22/05. They moved to C4 on 23 May, Hidalgo to C3 on 23/05.

  Hidalgo left C3 at 10 pm on 23/05. When Hidalgo left it was windy as opposed to the weather forecast. After about 5 hours, at about 7900m he decided to return to C3, where he arrived at 4:30 am. he slept there for a few hours. When he woke up he saw the big cloud on the summit and descended to ABC.

  He was waiting for the Flaczynski pair, but they did not come back. Hidalgo got in touch with the weather forecaster in Poland and told him that they had no contact with him.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


  Thomas Laemmle (Germany)

  Appr:  Heli to Yangla Kharka, trekked to BC
  Camps: BC(18/04,4840m),ABC(20/04,5700m),C2(24/04,6600m),C3(03/05,7480m),
         C4(12/05,7700m),Smt(13/05)
  Left:  16/05/2018 by helicopter from Makalu ABC to Everest BC
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Success

  On his summit push, Laemmle arrived at C3 on 10/05 and stayed for two nights. It was very windy, but he had a weather forecast that said that the 12th was good, however, it was not. He waited for another day and then ascended to C4.

  He left C4 at 1 am. Fixed rope was to the end of the French Couloir, but no new fixed rope on the summit ridge. He spent about half an hour on the summit and descended to C4, where he arrived at 8 pm. On 14/05 he descended to C2 and dismantled it; on 15/05 to ABC.

  The Chinese climber Ge Shui-Gin invited him to a helicopter flight to Everest BC and the heli left for Everest BC on 16/05 for his attempt on Lhotse which he summited on 23 May.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


  Adrian Laza (Romania)

  Appr:  Flight to Tumlingtar, Jeep to Num, trekked to BC
  Camps: BC(21/04,4800m),ABC(05/05,5700m),C2(11/05,6600m),C3(12/05,7400m),
         C4(13/05,7700m),Smt(14/05)
  Left:  03/05/2018 by helicopter to Lukla
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success

  After Laza reached Hillary BC on 21/04, he attempted Baruntse, then returned on 2 May to attempt Makalu.

  Summit team of Laza and Dawa Sherpa left around 9:45 pm on 13/05. There was a Chinese climber and his Sherpa in front of him. It was a straightforward climb. They summited at 5:30 am and spent about 10 minutes on the summit. The weather changed and on the way down, they had wind and snow. They descended to C3, where they arrived at 3 pm. It was very windy and they had a very windy night. On 15/05 they descended to ABC.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C4 to top to C4 by Laza and Dawa Sherpa

  Sherpas:
    Pema Sherpa, Ekuwa, Pathibhara, Makalu-Barun 28/08/1973
    Dawa Sherpa, Nurbugaon-5, Makalu 26 years


  Jesus Morales (Spain)
  Walter Rojas (Costa Rica)

  Appr:  Heli to Makalu Lower BC (had previously completed the Everest Trek and
         climbed Island Peak as acclimatization)
  Camps: BC(21/04,4900m),ABC(23/04,5700m),C1(28/04,6100m),C2(29/04,6700m),
         xxx(07/05,6900m)
  Left:  18/05/2018
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 6900m due to bad weather conditions

  Abandoned because wind was too strong. When wind subsided, it was snowing to a degree that they considered it would have been unsafe to continue. Both members returned to C2 and then mixture of camps whilst waiting for better weather. Realised on 18/05 that there would be no further window for climbing and expedition was abandoned.

  Trekked back to Num and then jeep to Tumlingtar airport. Flight not possible and consequently jeep to Biratnagar and small plane to KTM, arriving 24/05.

  Team supported by Dr. Mireila Gili who stayed at base camp.

  Oxygen: Taken, not used

  Sherpa:
    Dendi Sherpa


  Gavin Vickers (Australia)

  Appr:  Flight to Tumlingtar, Jeep to Num, trekked to BC
  Camps: BC(10/04,4800m),ABC(12/04,5600m),C1(14/04,6100m),C2(15/04,6700m),
         xxx(20/04,7100m)
  Left:  01/05/2018
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 7100m due to bad cough

  Vickers abandoned his climb due to a persistently bad cough and fatigue on the 30/04 and left ABC by heli on the 01/05 to Kathmandu and flew to Australia later that night at 11:15 pm.

  Oxygen: Taken, not used


expid: MAKA18102
peakid: MAKA
year: 2018
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Zhang Jing-Chuan
sponsor: Fourteen Peaks Makalu Expedition 2014
approach: Tumlingtar, Jeep to Num, heli to Yangle and then heli to BC
bcdate: 2018-04-16
smtdate: 2018-05-14
smttime: 0200
termdate: 2018-05-16
accidents: Li frostbite on both feet, two toes
agency: Seven Summit Treks
campsites:
  BC(16/04,4800m),ABC(19/04,5700m),C1(24/04,6000m),C2(24/04,6600m),C3(27/04,7500m),C4(28/04,7600m),Smt(14/05)

routememo:
  BC  16/04  4800m
  ABC 19/04  5700m
  C1  24/04  6000m
  C2  24/04  6600m
  C3  27/04  7500m  by He Jing to acclimatize
  C4  28/04  7600m  by He Jing to acclimatize
  Smt 14/05  by Ge and Pemba at 2 am, Ren and Ang Dawa at 3 am, Long and Halung, 
             Ang Tenji, at 5:30 am, Li and Sona, Pasang, at 7 am, and Je Jing 
             (without O2) and Pasang at 9 am.

  The team started their summit push from C3. They left C3 at 3 pm on 13/05. Straightforward climb. Long descended to ABC. Jing He descended to C2.

  On the descent, Li noticed that his feet were very cold and he had lost the feeling in his toes. He descended to C3, where he stayed the night and was long-lined by helicopter rescue on 15/05.

  Ding reached 8000m 14/05. She was exhausted and turned back.

  Zhang reached C2. He got altitude sick and returned to China.

  Yang reached C2. He felt sick and had no time and returned to China.

  On acclimatization He Jing stayed up on the mountain between C2, C3 and C4 for about 8 days to acclimatize well for her non-02 ascents.

  Team left BC on 16/05 by heli.

  Fixed rope:	from ABC to top of French Couloirs.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by all members and Sherpas, apart from He who
    did NOT use oxygen.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba
    Ang Dawa
    Halung
    Ang Tenji
    Sona
    Pasang
    Pasang


expid: MAKA18103
peakid: MAKA
year: 2018
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Sweden
leaders: Carina Ahlqvist
sponsor: Swedish Makalu Expedition 2018
approach: Flight to Tumlingtar, trekked to BC
bcdate: 2018-04-20
smtdate: 2018-05-14
termdate: 2018-05-17
termnote: Abandoned at 8200m due to bad weather and snowblindness
accidents: Snowblindness of Ahlqvist
agency: Expedition Himalaya
campsites:
  BC(20/04,4800m),ABC(22/04,5700m),C1(25/04,6100m),C2(01/05,6600m),C3(12/05,7500m),C4(13/05,7700m),xxx(14/05,8200m)

routememo:
  BC  20/04  4800m
  ABC 22/04  5700m
  C1  25/04  6100m
  C2  01/05  6600m
  C3  12/05  7500m
  C4  13/05  7700m
  HPt 14/05  8200m  by Ahlqvist and Pasang Sherpa.

  High point team left C4 at 8:17 pm. The weather was clear, but windy. The ropes had been fixed by SST Sherpas. The conditions on the mountain were good. They climbed the French Couloirs and when they came out of the couloir it started snow and they were in a bit of a whiteout. Pasang wanted to go down, but Ahlqvist carried on for another 100 meters. Pasang was behind her, but she got the feeling that he wanted to go down. At about 8:37 am Pasang spoke to Nima Gyalzen of Sherpa Treks on the radio. He told him that the weather was turning bad, so they turned back. On the way down to C4, Ahlqvist was fine and had no problem with her eyes; however, when she got into her tent at C4 at around 3:30 pm all of a sudden her vision went white. She must have got snowblinded or her eyes were damaged from the wind. She was not wearing glasses on the way up as her oxygen mask did not fit properly and she had to take it off. So she thinks that she must have got too much wind into her eyes.

  They stayed the night at C4 and when she woke up on 15/05, she could not open her eyes. Her cornice was burnt and her eyes were stuck together.

  They thought that a helicopter was going to collect them on 15/05, but the helicopter could not make it and they decided to descend to C3 at around lunch time. Pasang was leading her by the arm to get down. They spend the night at C3 hoping for the helicopter to pick them up from there, but it did not. On 16/05 they descended to C2, where they stayed the night. On 17/05 she was finally rescued by Maurizio on a long-line from C2 to ABC. She was then flown to Lukla and then to Kathmandu and went straight to hospital. First to CIWEC[?] and to Norvic. She was diagnosed with a burnt cornice and stayed in hospital until 22/05.

  Ahlqvist left BC on 17/05 by heli long-line from C2.

  Oxygen: taken and used from 7100m to high point to C2 by member and Sherpa


  From Carina’s FB Page:

  Me and Pasang Sherpa left Camp 4 at 7500 meters for our Makalu summit attempt May 14. We passed the French couloir and climbed over 8000 meters, just having 4 hours to summit when snow and complete white-out ended our summit chances. We were the last persons on that altitude. Returning to Camp 4 I was hit by snowblindess and could not open my eyes. As the rescue helicopter could not get that high I had to rapell down eyes blind and closed from Camp 4 at 7500 meters to Camp 2 at 6600 meters, covering some of the hardest parts at Makalu with blue ice, rocks and snow almost vertical at times. I fell fully into a crevasse as I had to jump over it without seeing but managed to get up. When we were sitting without tent at about 7000 meters and got the message that heli could not come due to bad weather there was no choice but to continue down. I made some great learnings about inner capacity, navigating with inner eyes, changing gear to inner focus and intuition and how the body and mind can run on full adrenalin when you thought you run out of resources. When crying makes your eyes hurt like fire you need to use other means to move ahead. You have more energy than can imagine. Thank you Pasang for guiding me down and for your patience. After three days attempts the helicopter manged to pick me up, hanging flying in a rope from Camp 2 at 6600 meters to ABC at 5700 meters. Value your life and be creative. Now I wish to engage in cleaning up Makalu from garbage. Makalu is a genuinly beautiful and pristine mountain that deserves respect. My message is: take care about the planet. This is our home. There is no planet B. Do something good out your life. I'm greatful to be alive, full of new level of compassion. I did not summit but reached inner summits and learned that climbing down can be more challenging than climbing up. Thank you all for believing in me. Namaste!


expid: MAKA18104
peakid: MAKA
year: 2018
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Josette Valloton
sponsor: Swiss Makalu Expedition 2018
approach: Helicopter to BC from Khumbu
bcdate: 2018-04-16
smtdate: 2018-05-11
termdate: 2018-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to illness of Sherpa
campsites: BC(16/04,4800m),ABC(17/04,5700m),C2(24/04,6600m),xxx(11/05,7100m)
agency: Expedition Himalaya
routememo:
  BC  16/04  4800m
  ABC 17/04  5700m
  C1    --    --
  C2  24/04  6600m by Valloton
  HPt 11/05  around 7100m by Mindu Sherpa.

  Valloton went trekking in the Khumbu beforehand and then took a helicopter to Hillary BC. When Valloton reached C2 for the first time, Mindu was with her. They set up camp and stayed on night. On 25/04 they descended to ABC as it was very windy. The winds continued for a few days, but when the weather got better Valloton ascended to C2 a few times.

  On 10/05 Mindu left ABC to get ahead to C3 one day before Valloton to set up camp. Valloton left on 11/05 and when she reached C2 Mindu was on his way to C3. He did not reach all the way to C3 as it was too late. They spent another night at C2 and the following day was too windy to continue. On 13/05, Mindu got sick and they descended. On 14/05 they were picked up by helicopter to Lukla and then Kathmandu.

  On 16/05 Valloton took a flight to Lukla as she was supposed to go to Everest. However, her promised helicopter ride from Lukla to EBC never materialized so she came back to Kathmandu on 18/05.

  Oxygen: not taken, not used

  Sherpa:
    Mindu Chhiri, Kurima, Lokhim-9, 29/08/1971


expid: MAKA18105
peakid: MAKA
year: 2018
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Gao Xiao-Dan
sponsor: Chinese Makalu Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->EverBC->Island Peak->Dingboche->Heli to Makalu BC
bcdate: 2018-04-18
smtdate: 2018-05-03
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2018-05-15
accidents: Ang Dawa died at BC, possibly from a burst ulcer
agency: Trekking Sherpa Expedition
campsites:
  ABC(18/04,5700m),C1(23/04,6100m),C2(24/04,6600m),C3(30/04,7400m),C4(01/05,7700m),C5(02/05,8000m),Smt(03,13/05)

routememo:
  ABC 18/04  5700m by helicopter from Island Peak
  C1  23/04  6100m
  C2  24/04  6600m
  C3  30/04  7400m
  C4  01/05  7700m
  C5  02/05  8000m
  Smt 03/05  by Gao, Nima Gyalzen, Ang Dawa, Jit Bahadur at 9 am
  Smt 13/05  by Miao, Ang Dawa and Jit Bahadur (again) at 6 am.

  03/05 Summit team left C5 at 1 am. Weather good, slightly windy. Little snow. Good conditions. Nima and Jit Bahadur had fixed the rope from C4 to 8400m previously. They spent about 20 min on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 1 pm. They descended to BC on 04/05.

  13/05 summit team left C5 at 1 am. Good conditions. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit. Miao and Jit Bahadur descended to ABC, where they arrived at 9 pm. Ang Dawa descended to C2 as he was having a stomach ache. On 14/05, Jit Bahadur and Dendi from SST went to C2 to help Ang Dawa down as he was still unwell. They had to drag him down and arrived at ABC at 10 pm. They gave him drink and food and a Spanish doctor gave him some medicine. He lay in his tent and seemed fine and went to sleep. He died at around 2 am on 15/05. Apparently from a burst ulcer.

  Team left BC on 15/05.

  Fixed rope: 1200m from C4

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C5 to summit to C5 by Nima Gyalzen, Jit Bahadur and Ang Dawa
    Gao did NOT use oxygen

  Sherpas:
    Nima Gyalzen, Beding, 09/08/1985
    Jit Bahadur, Khare-5, Dolakha, 30/07/1978
    Ang Dawa Sherpa, Kerung, Solukhumbu, 2043/07/28


expid: MANA18101
peakid: MANA
year: 2018
route1: NE Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Peter Gschwendtner
sponsor: Austrian-Swiss Manaslu Expedition 2018
countries: Switzerland
approach: Arughat->Samagaon
bcdate: 2018-04-21
smtdate: 2018-04-26
termdate: 2018-05-10
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to bad weather and too much snow
campsites: BC(21/04,4800m),C1(25/04,5604m),xxx(26/04,6000m)
agency: Boss Adventure
routememo:
  BC  21/04  4800m
  C1  25/04  5604m
  HPt 26/04  6000m (just below the hour-glass) by all members and Tamang.

  The team tried several times to make progress on the mountain, however, the weather did not permit. It was snowing almost every day (only three days snow-free).

  On 08/05 they ascended to C1 again and due to the bad weather forecast they decided to go home.

  On 09/05 a powder avalanche came down from the wall on the right side of BC and destroyed some of the tents of the Wild Yak expedition. This team lost their kitchen tent.

  Climb abandoned on 08/05 due to bad weather, too much snow. Team left BC on 10/05.

  Fixed rope: 40m at 6000m

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


expid: MANA18102
peakid: MANA
year: 2018
route1: NE Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Pemba Norbu Sherpa
sponsor: Wild Yak Manaslu Expedition 2018
countries: Switzerland
approach: Larkya La->Samagaon
bcdate: 2018-04-20
termdate: 2018-05-10
termnote: Abandoned due to bad weather, too much snow and avalanche at base camp
campsites: BC(20/04,4800m),C1,xxx
agency: Wild Yak Expeditions
routememo:
  From The Himalayan Times - 12 May 2018

  “The only expedition to Mt Manaslu this season organised by Wild Yak Expeditions has decided to abandon the expedition due to high risk of avalanche in higher camps,” Norbu Sherpa, Managing Director at Wild Yak Expeditions, shared. “The avalanche which arrived at the base camp also destroyed a couple of tents but there was no human casualty,” he told THT.

  A team led by Swiss climber Steve Bernard was forced to return after a number of avalanches followed by the high wind and heavy snowfall restricted the team members from attempting to scale the 8163-metre peak in the western Nepal, Sherpa added.

  According to the Department of Tourism, the Wild Yak Expedition was the only team to attempt to climb Mt Manaslu this season. “The team has six members from Switzerland and one each from France and Austria,” a DoT official said, referring to the climbing permit issued for Mt Manaslu this season.


expid: NUPT18101
peakid: NUPT
year: 2018
route1: NE Spur
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Guy Cotter
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Triple Crown Expedition 2018
countries: Singapore
approach: Lukla->Pangboche-> Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-03-30
smtdate: 2018-05-02
termdate: 2018-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7650m due to avalanche danger
othersmts: Summited Everest and Lhotse
campsites: BC(30/03,5350m),C1(20/04,5900m),C2(22/04,6440m),C3(01/05,6830m),xxx(02/05,7650m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  30/03  5350m
  C1  20/04  5900m
  C2  22/04  6440m
  C3  01/05  6830m
  HPt 02/05  7650m by Cotter, Leow Kah Shin, Nima Tsering, Prakash and Pasang Bhote.

  Rope was fixed by 4 AC Sherpas (Lhotse Nima, Prakash, Dawa and Pasang Bhote). 600m between C2 and C3 and two linked-up ladders. Around 1600m of rope on the face.

  Team left C3 at 1 am. At around 7300m at sunrise 5 am wind picked up. They grouped up with Jon Gupta's and Tim Mosedale's teams at 7400m, discussed and carried on. They reached their high point at about 9:30 am and the fixing team said it would be too avalanche prone higher up. They descended to C3, packed up and reached C2 at 6:15 pm.

  Fixed rope: 2200m in total

  Oxygen: C3 to high point to C3 by members and Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Nima Tshering, Phortse, 22/04/1972
    Pasang Bhote, Chepuwa-1, Makalu-Barun, 30/11/1973
    Dawa Bhote, Hatiya-3, Makalu-Barun, 14/02/1991
    Pemba Prakash, Pawai-1, 11/04/1992


expid: NUPT18102
peakid: NUPT
year: 2018
route1: NE Spur
nation: UK
leaders: Tim Mosedale
sponsor: Tim Mosedale's Everest-Lhotse-Nuptse Expedition 2018
countries: Australia
approach: Lukla->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-04-14
smtdate: 2018-05-02
termdate: 2018-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 7650m due to avalanche danger
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-181-10) and Lhotse (LHOT-181-04)
campsites: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(21/04,6100m),C2(23/04,6350m),C3(01/05,6830m),xxx(02/05,7650m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
primid: EVER18110
routememo:
  Nuptse Attempt:

  BC  14/04  5350m
  C1  21/04  5900m
  C2  23/04  6400m
  C3  01/05  6830m
  HPt 02/05  7650m

  Rope was fixed by AC Sherpas. Mosedale, Booth, Chhebi and Pemba Dorje together with Plain and Gupta left C3 at 2 am. Weather was good. At around 7300m at sunrise 5 am wind picked up. They grouped up with Guy Cotter and his group at 7400m, discussed and carried on. They reached their high point at about 9:30 am and the fixing team said it would be too avalanche-prone higher up. They descended to C3, packed up and reached C2 at 5:30 pm.

  Team left BC on 22/05 be heli.


  From Jon Gupta's Facebook page:

  Nuptse 7864m Update - Totally epic & SO close but sadly no summit!

  On Tuesday 1st Steve, Tim, Adam & I, alongside Pemba & Cheddi Sherpa headed round from Everest Camp 2 6350m to the other side of the Western Cwm to Nuptse Camp 3 6830m in just under 3 hours. We dug out 2 tent platforms next to the 3 tents from Adventure Consultants & jumped in 3 to a tent.

  At 02:00am we heading out into the clear cold night - it was super bright with a huge moon over head...perfect!! Just 50m away the route started up a steep snow arete (note: steeply...& it never relented!). Not once during the entire route was there a nice flat bit to stand on, it was simply just super steep all the time!

  Adam & I decided to climb without oxygen whilst Tim & Steve wore their masks on a low flow-rate. At about 7200m my left toes were getting very cold (some minor damage left over from Denali) & refused to warm up with the usual tricks so I turned my oxygen on & they soon warmed up. (I was carrying 1 bottle ‘in case’).

  Way up ahead 2 skilled climbing Sherpas from the Adventure Consultants team were fixing the final 400m of the route ahead of us, I could see their head torches from time to time. These guys had spent 3 full days fixing the route up to that point (over the last week or so) & were phenomenal mountaineers, I was super impressed as I climbed the route thinking about what they had done that days before.

  At around 08:00am we all caught up with one another: Steve, myself, Tim, Adam & our two Sherpas, and Guy Cotter, Keshan (his client) & their Sherpas. It was quite windy & spindrift snow was being blasted around making it difficult for the 2 fixing Sherpas above. The slopes we were standing on where also substantially avalanche prone & a few sluffs were being self-triggered close by.

  The radio call came through from above & the thumbs up to continue. Tim & I took the lead, both feeling good & took turns breaking trail for the next 2 hours. Spindrift had wiped out any sign of old footprints so we just had the rope to give us direction. The going was tough & deep but it felt amazing...every now & then looking around to see the view literally made me smile! Eventually at around 7630m (just 200m short of the top) we caught up with the 2 fixing Sherpas who delivered the blowing news that the next slopes that lead to the summit were substantially loaded & prone to avalanche & therefore too dangerous to cross.

  Understandably we were gutted but accepted the decision without question. So so close but yet so far.

  We descended via a number of abseils & arm wraps all the way back to our camp - this took about 3 hours or so. Exhausted but safe, we got the stove on & packed our stuff away & hauled the tents, cookers, oxygen, etc. back around to Camp 2 on Everest. We got in around 17:00 - we all enjoyed a huge 12 hour sleep!


expid: PANB17302
peakid: PANB
year: 2017
route1: S Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Clint Helander, Damien Tomasi
sponsor: American-French Panbari Expeditions 2017
countries: France
campsites: BC(mid-Oct),C1(5400m),xxx
agency: Holiday Himalaya Treks, Magical Nepal
routememo:
  The American and French teams combined forces for their attempt on Panbari in mid-October. Afer reaching their camps at 5400m, both teams abandoned the climb due to dangerous rockfall.


expid: PKAR18101
peakid: PKAR
year: 2018
route1: E side
nation: Japan
leaders: Yasuhiro Hanatani
sponsor: Himalaya Camp Pankar Himal Expedition 2018
approach: From part of Manaslu circuit
bcdate: 2018-05-03
smtdate: 2018-05-08
smttime: 1210
termdate: 2018-05-12
campsites: BC(03/05,2850m),C1(05/05,4400m),C2(06/05,5200m),C3(07/05,5500m),Smt(08/05)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Team set out from C3 at 5 am on 08/05, summited at 12:10 pm, stayed 20 minutes, then descended to C1 arriving at 4 pm. Weather was so good. It snowed a little bit last night, but it was no problem.


expid: PUCH17101
peakid: PUCH
year: 2017
route1: NW Face-NW Ridge from W
nation: UK
leaders: Mark Aitken
sponsor: Punchen Himal Unclimbed Peak Expedition 2017
approach: Tsum Valley
smtdate: 2017-04-28
termnote: Abandoned beyond Punchen North due to avalanche risk on ridge to main summit
campsites: BC(mid-April),C1(5161m),xxx(28/04,5962m)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  Team climbed Punchen Himal North (5962m), but could not traverse to main summit due to avalanche risk along summit ridge.


expid: SPH117101
peakid: SPH1
year: 2017
route1: S Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Maria Pilar Agudo Fernandez
sponsor: Expedicion Hispano-Argentina
countries: Argentina
approach: Taplejung->Kangbachen->Sharphu BC
bcdate: 2017-04-14
smtdate: 2017-04-17
termdate: 2017-04-22
termnote: Abandoned at 5600m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(14/04,4150m),ABC(16/04,4916m),C1(17/04,5577m),xxx(17/04,5600m)
agency: Alternative Nepal
routememo:
  The conditions were really good, but just for three days (16, 17 and 18 during the morning). We started going up with a little bit of fresh snow from the last day. We got to ABC walking around 8k til 4900m and stopped in a "yak lagoon"; the next morning climbed for around 6 hours and 7 kms; we followed a cornice till the bottom of the glacier, and we found a big frozen lagoon. We superate this part turning left through a 50g small rock tongue. After that we faced the glaciar from this more gentil side til 5600m with snow up to upper ankles. We decided to stop 500 meters before the final pinnacle because of the big crevasse. With just one morning of good weather in front of us, we decided to stop climbing. Slept there and came back down next morning.


expid: SPH163301
peakid: SPH1
year: 1963
route1: E side
route2: S Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Kenji Ishihara
sponsor: Tokyo-Osaka University Joint Himalayan Expedition
ascent2: 1st-3rd
bcdate: 1963-10-12
smtdate: 1963-10-22
smttime: 1330
termdate: 1963-10-28
campsites: BC(12/10,4100m),C1(14/10,5000m),C2(16/10,5900m),C3(20/10,6500m),Smt(22-23,25/10)
othersmts:
  Climbed Tsisima (TSIS-633-01) and Syamdo Kangri (1st); attempted Drohmo (DROM-633-01), Talung (TLNG-633-01) and Merra (MERR-633-01); climbed 2 Tibetan peaks in Ombak Himal (OMBK-633-01)

routememo:
  Japanese estimated peak altitude to be 6553m; current HMG-Finnish map shows altitude of 6433m.


  Hirotani - 12 Sept 63

  1st day 22nd Oct - Tatsumi, Miyamoto, Ishinabe attack from C3, 6 am reached peak 1:30 pm very fixed rope 200m.
  2nd day 23rd Oct - Hirai, Mori, Dr Kasamatsu and 2 Sherpas Dorje and Ang Tharkey from Namche.
  3rd day 25th Oct - Hirano, Hirotani, Hioki, Takahashi and Sirdar Ang Tshering and Dogba [Lhakpa??] Tensing.

  About 24,000 ft Climbed via south. Tried east first, but very difficult, so went via newly discovered Sharphu Glacier where made C1, C2 and C3 - highest C3 at 6500m.

  No accidents. Needed many fixed ropes on south side (1000m). At base separated in 2 parties. To Kathmandu: Hirotani, Hioki, Takahashi, Hirai, Mori, Kasamatsu; Hirotani leaves Thursday via Biratnagar and Cal (on Tokyo); others to Kathmandu via Namche early Feb.

  Most difficult part from C2->C3 - very steep, ice and rock mixed. 
  C2 at 5900m
  C1 at 5000m
  BC    4100m
  1st party left base Oct 20 for final assault.

  From Kangbachen
  Base Camp
  16 Oct
  Sharphu Himal

  Started 27 Sept with 75 porters from Dharan. After 16 days (12 Oct) arrive base camp at 4150 meters. Wish to climb via East Face but could find no route there, so from SE Ridge and up col to South Face of Sharphu Glacier. 14th Oct established C1 just below Col at about 5000m. Return end Nov.

  Letter from T. Kasamatsu to Tamura post marked 19 Sept 1965 from Purnea gave return address as 
    C/O British Camp
    Dharan, Eastern Nepal


  Ishihara - 10 Sept 63

  Expedition's liaison officer Janardan Raj Bhandary (who says he was with Peter Taylor and that the Ang Tharkey with Sharphu Expedition is not same as with Herzog).

  Ishihara leaves Kathmandu for Calcutta today. Expedition leaves Calcutta for Biratnagar 16 Sept. Liaison officer and Sherpas fly Kathmandu-Biratnagar 15 Sept. Hirano and 3 others will come to KTM in Feb.


  Hirano - 3 Sept 63

  Tokyo Metropolitan University and Osaka Prefecture University from Tokyo-Osaka. Osaka Prefecture University climbed Mt. Nupchu last year and discovered Sharphu whose exact height not known. So want try climb it instead; both Talung and Sharphu virgin peaks; both near Kangchenjunga (Talung on Sikkim-Nepal border; Sharphu little west of border).

  Leader and 2 members here in Kathmandu. Arrived yesterday. Rest are still in Japan. All arrive Calcutta about 9th Sept. Mid-Sept all to Biratnagar and thence to mountain.

  Each member doing our field of scientific work also. Also members except 68-year-old leader will climb. Reach base camp beginning Oct; mid or end Oct reach peak.

  Ishihara - 6 Sept

  Expedition Sherpas:
    Dorje Sherpa
    Ang Tharkey


expid: ACHN18301
peakid: ACHN
year: 2018
nation: France
leaders: Francois Damilano, Gregoire Lestienne
sponsor: French Aichyn Expeditions 2018
approach: Nepalgung->Simikot
termnote: Climbed other peaks in region
othersmts: Took permit for Aichin (ACHN), but climbed other peaks instead (see route notes)
agency: Himalayan Travellers Nepal
routememo:
  Summit of Limi Koti:            Oct 5 by Lestienne group
  Summit of Shikan Ri:            Oct 9 by Damilano group
  Attempt of Peak without Name 1: Oct 11 by Lestienne group plus FD and UL
  Summit of Peak without Name 2 : Oct 11 by Lestienne group plus FD and UL
  Summit of Pasang Peak:          Oct 14 by Lestienne group
  West summit of Pasang Peak:     Oct 14 by UL and FD

  2 French teams combining Damilano group and Lestienne groups took permit for Aichyn, but climbed other peaks. Made round trip from Simikot around Limi Himal. Group of Lestienne included Lestienne, Florian Pugin, Julien Desecures and Evelyne Miot. The other French group following slightly different schedule was led by Francois Damilano with Ulysse Lefebvre and 2 clients (Perazio and Talopp). Joined all together at BC.

  Schedule : 
    Arrival date at Simikot: Sept 28
    Trekking starting date:  Sept 29

  Lestienne and Damilano's group walked together via villages including the one of Hepka, then at Selina Camp and Talung camps. From there Damilano and Lestienne group split; the latter walked up eastwards aiming for "Limi Koti" (a peak without name 6190m/Alti 6170m; christening proposal of "Limi Koti" for it).

  Oct 4: established BC at 4960m, west from the Limit Koti.

  Oct 5: climbed to the top via SW Face, then SW Ridge. Average difficulties estimated to (800m/AD-/snow up to 50°) in French grade. First intended to traverse eastward then northeast to reach Nying BC, but without much acclimatization and a weather forecast not annouced good enough, so turned back from summit back to BC on that day.

  Lestienne group couldn't get mules from Damilano despite messages sent (Damilano never got it) so would have to carry their gear by themselves. Lestienne group walked after Damilano via Nying Khola (W to E orientated) flat dry valley, 11 kms long, magnificent place with yacks spread everywhere and sheperds huts.
   
  Oct 7: Lestienne group slept at Bishal BC at 4800m.
  Oct 8: Lestienne group reached Nying BC, where Damilano group had already arrived 
         on Oct 6.

  Meanwhile Damilano group had been up for reconnaissance on Oct 6 to C1 site located at 5270m; Damilano group went back to C1 for deposit on Oct 7 at 5270m then back to BC; Damilano group slept at C1 on Oct 8; Damilano group summited Shikan Ri (5996m) on Oct 9 (700m/F), clients going back to BC on that day when FD and UL stayed at C1.

  Oct  9: Lestienne group had a rest day after intense walking days.
  Oct 10: Lestienne group went up to sleep at C1 where FD and UL were staying.

  Oct 11: all 6 members (Damilano, Lefebvre, Lestienne, Desecures, Miot, Pugin) attempted Peak Without Name 1, kind of Dent du Geant (58XXm) via its N Face (very difficult route, TD equivalent), about 100m high and located east of Shikan Ri. Team met with plaquee snow, so stopped 40m below the summit due to delicate mixed ground conditions. Then they climbed the good looking little Peak Without Name 2 located between PWN 1 and Shikan Ri (5996m). Storm came at beginning of the descent at about 5800m, losing trail from there. 3 mountain guides but had no GPS tracking! Lestienne was testing the ground in front, and hardly seeing, eventually they could find route back down. At C1 got even harder conditions. In the windy snowy night got up to 30cms of snow fall.

  Oct 12: all to BC.
  Oct 13: all had rest day.

  Oct 14: Lestienne group without FD and UL set up a new C1 eastwards from Nying BC at 5300m below Pasang peak (altitude 6065/6070 GPS 6061 +-5m). Meanwhile, UL and FD were setting an other C1 NNEastwards from Nying BC at c.5200m.

  Oct 15: Lestienne group climbed Phasang peak from south face towards a couloir leading up to 40m below the summit. Met with rotten rock from there to the top (average difficulties of PD+/AD- grade, 45° slopes maximum). On that day Floriane and Grégoire went down to Nying BC ; Julien and Evelyne slept at C1.

  Meanwhile FD and UL had climbed the W Face of the Western foresummit of Pasang Peak. Went back down straight to BC on that day.

  Oct 16: east of BC, established a new multi-pitch route on the right side of a granite rock face, called "Tour MCL" (exit at 5200m, start at c.5000m): "Li Mini Keums" (250m/4c-5a), climbing with big shoes. Nice rock, possibilities on steeper part of the face to the left. Other people were resting. Julien and Evelyne were back to BC for resting on that day.

  Oct 17: all 8 members left BC with muleteers aiming to reach Pasang La (5448m, north-eastwards from Nying BC) despite trying it out of the official opening period (June to September on the maps, since mules cannot reach the col in snowy conditions). Despite deteriorating weather coming from SW, they made it and slept at Tsutuma on that evening.

  Lestienne group initially intended to traverse Limi massif first W-E traverse to Nying BC, then N-S towards Simikot. Lack of acclimatization at the beginning, weather conditions and mountain conditions (snowy northern parts were generally offering deep snow to break the trail..."we would have needed rackets!") prevented them to try both times.

  Oct 20: reached Simikot.

  Potential for climbing:

  Nying BC already got 6/7 BC areas set up there => previous teams went there for sure.

  - Area explored by Freeman-Atwood (comes here since 10 years, has his gear stored at Simikot); southeast part of the massif = Dojan Himal (6246m), tried for the least (?) by Julian Freeman-Atwood.

  - Japanese came last year: Sumdo Himal christiened by them?

  Nying Ri and Nying are both magnificent summits with lots of lines possibilities. Paulo Grobel doesn't think it's climbed.

  Pasang likely was likely already climbed.

  Rocky face east from Nying BC offering opening possibilities on the steeper left side plus a nice pillar above it to link.

  Massive face of Gurka Khang east of Tangjung (Freeman-Atwood?).

  Massive rocky valley potential between Dojan (1 day from Simikot) and Tangjung villages, with kind of Les Drus tower on the east side of it. Kind of accessible Taghia valley!


expid: AMAD18301
peakid: AMAD
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Martin Szwed
sponsor: SummitClimb Ama Dablam Expedition 2018
countries: Australia, Austria, France, Israel, Norway, Russia, Spain, USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2018-10-17
smtdate: 2018-10-24
smttime: 1630
termdate: 2018-11-01
campsites: BC(17/10,4600m),C1(21/10,5800m),C2(28/10,6100m),Smt(24,29-30/10,21/11)
accidents: Angela Boebel fell and broke her shoulder in two places.
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  BC  17/10  4600m
  C1  21/10  5800m
  C2  28/10  6100m
  Smt 24/10  by Charles Scott Clarke, Nicole Clarke at 4:30 pm 
  Smt 29/10  by Marte, Leitinger (8:30 am), Pozhedaev (11:30 am), Szwed, Felder 
             (1 pm), Dorjee Sherpa, Tenji Sherpa, Lhakpa [Tendu] Sherpa, 
             Lakpa Dawa Sherpa.
  Smt 30/10  by Wolf, Turner, Miller, Watson, Akers, Ang Pasang Sherpa, Gyalje
             Sherpa, Galbu Sherpa, Puju Bhote, Wongchu Sherpa at 9:30 am.

  Smt 21/11  by Roumieu and Marston (2nd group)

  24 Oct summit team (the two Clarkes climbing independently without Sherpas) started at 6 am, summited at 4:40 pm, and back to C2 at 8 pm.

  29 Oct summit team started from C2 at 12:30 am, summied between 8:30 am and 1 pm, and back to C2 between 3-7 pm.

  30 Oct summit team started at midnight, summited at 9:30 am, and back to C2 around 3 pm.

  Franz Kroell and Rita Lechner reached BC on 30/10. Kroell had a cold, and bad weather was predicted. They turned around on 31/10.

  Daniel Baas reached C1 on 21/10. He fell altitude sick and turned around. Flew back to KTM from BC by helicopter on 28/10.

  Erlend Brochmann reached C2 on 31/10. Was sick before, he had a cold the whole time. Didn't have power to go for the summit. Trekked out.

  Angela Boebel had an accident on the way to C1 on 20/10. She fell while ascending and lost her footing. She crashed against the rocks. Broke her shoulder in two places. Flew out to KTM from ABC by helicopter. She descended to ABC with the help of Sherpas. Accident happened near C1, 100m from her tent. She is undergoing treatment in hospital in Germany.

  Brian Carpenter reached ABC (5300m) on 20/10. He fell bad the whole time. Had a cold and AMS.

  Brock Martin reached C1 on 25/10. Spent one night there. Fell sick (AMS).

  Miller developed HAPE on 30/10. He coughed blood in C2 after the summit. He was able to descend to Pangboche, got oxygen and dex. He was flown out from Pangboche on 31/10 by heli to KTM. One night in hospital and recovered now.

  Harold Orner reached C2 on 24/10. He felt bad and didn't want to go to summit.

  Alexander Zaffoni on 27/10 at C1 had a heart attack. He reached C2 as high point on 24/10 on first rotation. He descended and flew by heli to KTM with Daniel Baas on 28/10.

  Oxygen: Used by Ryan Miller on descent from BC to Pangboche because of HAPE.

  Charles Clarke, Nicole Clarke, Jon Legarda Waismann, Steve Marston, Laura Rumford, Christophe Roumieu and Omer Shiran were independent clients of Everest Parivar.

  Franz Kroell and Rita Lechner contracted with SummitClimb only for BC services.


expid: AMAD18302
peakid: AMAD
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Tim Mosedale
sponsor: Tim Mosedale's Ama Dablam Expedition 2018
countries: Denmark, Ireland, Poland, Slovakia, USA
approach: Lukla (via helicopter)->Monjo->Kyangjuma->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2018-11-17
smtdate: 2018-11-27
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2018-12-02
campsites: BC(17/11,4600m),ABC(21/11,5300m),C1(22/11,5850m),C2(26/11,6000m),Smt(27/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  The main team arrived at BC on 17 Nov directly from Lukla, while Biem, Kristiansen and Wymer arrived in the Khumbu region 10 days earlier to become better acclimatized for the expedition.

  The majority of the team went to ABC (5300m) on 21 Nov. Biem, Kristiansen and Wymer proceeded on to C1 (5850m) on 22 Nov. 

  Adcock and Coburn came to BC from Pangboche as they were slower to acclimatize (they eventually abandoned their summit attempts).

  Biem, Kristiansen and Wymer along with Pasang Dawa and Pemba Dorje went to C2 (6000m) on 26 and for their summit attempt on 27 Nov. They summited at 1:30 pm and descended to C2. During the descent Biem was stricken with pulmonary edema and died on the morning of 28 Nov in C2.

  Several members went to C2 on 30 Nov for their summit attempt, but were turned back due to bad weather forecasts.


expid: AMAD18303
peakid: AMAD
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Mark Austin
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Ama Dablam Expedition 2018
countries: Australia, Canada, Spain, Sweden, USA
approach: Lukla (via helicopter)->Phortse->BC
bcdate: 2018-10-23
smtdate: 2018-11-02
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2018-11-05
campsites: BC(23/10,4600m),C1(28/19,5800m),C2(01/11,6000m),C3(03/11,6300m),Smt(02,04/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  23/10    4600m (BC lodge)
  C1  28/10    5800m
  C2  01-02/11 6000m
  C3  03/11    6300m (Geary, Rolleston)
  Smt 02/11    by Austin, Campanaro, Barton, Svensson, Dawa Bhote, Pasang Bhote,
                 Chheten [Dorje] Sherpa, Guru Bhote
  Smt 04/11    by Geary, Prakash Sherpa. 

  First summit team started from C2 at 2:15 am, summited around noon, then down to C2 at 5:30 pm. Clear day, no wind, good summit day.
   
  Second summit team started from C3 at 6:30 am, summitted at 10 am, down to C1 at 3 pm. Little bit windier than previous days, but not too bad. 

  Henzell reached 6000m. He had a chest infection and chose not to go higher.

  Alvarez reached C1 on 28/10. She had AMS and went down with Austin. She was given oxygen on descent. She is fine now and climbed Island Peak afterwards.

  Rolleston-Kerr and Ang Chhewang on summit push turned around at 7:30am on 6400m due to cold. 

  Svensson, Barton and Campanaro flew out by heli from BC to KTM on 04/11. Remainder of team left BC on 05/11.

  Oxygen use: taken and used by Campanaro overnight in C2 and on descent from C2 to C1. Alvarez at C1 and on descent to Yak Camp.

  Other peaks:  Alvarez climbed Island Peak.

  Accidents, etc : Alvarez AMS; Henzell chest infection


expid: AMAD18304
peakid: AMAD
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Rolfe Oostra
sponsor: 360 Expeditions Ama Dablam 2018
countries: Sweden, UK
approach: Lukla->Kalapattar->BC
bcdate: 2018-11-02
smtdate: 2018-11-08
smttime: 0927
termdate: 2018-11-10
campsites: BC(02/11,4600m),C1(06/11,5800m),C2(07/11,6100m),Smt(08/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  02/11  4600m
  C1  06/11  5800m
  C2  07/11  6100m
  Smt 08/11  by Oostra, Eriksson, Andersson, Pemba Sherpa.

  Andersson summited at 9:27 am, Oostra  at 10 am, Eriksson at 12 pm. Safe route, no wind, good conditions. Route very well prepared. Team started from C2 at 1 am. Back to C2 at 3 pm (Andersson) and 7 pm (Oostra, Eriksson).

  Gibson and Kaur turned around at 6600m at around 7 am. Kaur had a throat problem from the beginning of trip. Gibson ran out of steam.

  Team left BC on 10/11.


expid: AMAD18305
peakid: AMAD
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Rupert Hauer
sponsor: Furtenbach Adventures Ama Dablam & Nirekha Expedition 2018
countries: Germany
approach: Lukla->Renjo La->Nirekha BC->Ama Dablam BC
bcdate: 2018-10-30
smtdate: 2018-11-01
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2018-11-01
othersmts: Summited Nirekha on 27 Oct
campsites: BC(30/10,4600m),C1(31/10,6100m),Smt(01/11)
agency: Iceland Trekking (Satori Adventures pmt)
routememo:
  BC  30/10  4600m
  C1  31/10  6100m
  Smt 01/11  by Hauer, Rogy, Maruna [and Ngima Sherpa].

  Ama Dablam summit team started at 3:30 am, reached the summit at 9 am, spent about 20 minutes on the summit in very good weather. Same day everyone to Pangboche at 7 pm.

  Mueller and Mingma Sherpa reached high point 5800m (C1) at 31/10. Mueller lacked motivation to attempt summit and decided not to go higher.
  	
  Ama Dablam team left BC on 01/11.

  Nirekha summit on 27/10 at 10 am. Started from high camp at 5:30 am, then back to high camp at 2 pm. All summitted except Mueller who reached 6050m, but was exhausted and didn't continue. From lodge in Dragnag [near Gokyo] they established one high camp at 5400m.

  Ngima Sherpa added as summiter from Ministry lists.


expid: AMAD18306
peakid: AMAD
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Andreas Neuschmid
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Ama Dablam Expedition 2018
countries: Germany, Switzerland
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Lobuche->Ama Dablam BC
bcdate: 2018-10-19
smtdate: 2018-10-25
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2018-10-28
campsites: BC(19/10,4700m),C1(23/10,5800m),C2(24/10,6100m),Smt(25/10)
agency: Himalaya Vision
routememo:
  BC  19/10  4700m
  C1  23/10  5800m
  C2  24/10  6100m
  Smt 25/10  by Neuschmid, Vetter-Aebli, Thomma, Kusang Tenzing Sherpa at 8 am.

  Summit team left left C2 at midnight. It was cold (-20C) and clear. They spent about half an hour on the summit, then descended to C2, packed up and continued to C1, where they arrived at 5 pm.

  Sieveking never reached Ama Dablam BC. After crossing Cho La on 17/10 he developed a problem with his lungs and was evacuated by helicopter.

  Schittich reached 6000m on 24/10. She did not feel strong enough to continue and turned back to BC with Tashi Sherpa.

  On 26/10, everybody down at BC.


expid: AMAD18307
peakid: AMAD
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiroyuki Kuraoka
sponsor: Hiro Ama Dablam Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Deboche->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2018-10-24
smtdate: 2018-10-31
termdate: 2018-10-31
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m after client hit by rockfall from another team
campsites: BC(24/10,4580m),C1(5800m),C2(29/10,6000m),xxx(31/10,6100m)
accidents: Yoshiki Sakai hit by rockfall from another team.
agency: Himalaya Vision
routememo:
  On summit push at 6100m, Yoshiki Sakai was hit by rockfall from another team that broke his left index finger.


expid: AMAD18308
peakid: AMAD
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Nathan Berry
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Ama Dablam Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Pangboche
bcdate: 2018-10-30
smtdate: 2018-11-09
smttime: 0735
termdate: 2018-11-11
campsites: BC(30/10,4600m),C1(01/11,5800m),C2(07/11,6000m),C3(08/11,6300m),Smt(09/11)
agency: Beyul Adventure (Prestige Adventure pmt)
routememo:
  Summit push:

    6 Nov - BC to C1 (5-6 hours)
    7 Nov - C1 to C2 (4 hours)
    8 Nov - C2 to C3 (5-6 hours)
    9 Nov - C3 to Smt (3:35 hours)

  Summit team left C3 at 4 am, summited at 7:35 am, then descende to C1 by 5 pm. Next day to BC.


expid: AMAD18309
peakid: AMAD
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Jonathan Spitzer
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Ama Dablam Expedition 2018
countries: Canada, UK
approach: Helicopter to BC
bcdate: 2018-10-23
smtdate: 2018-11-08
smttime: 0820
termdate: 2018-11-09
othersmts: Summited Island Peak by Follows and Solmonson
campsites: BC(23/10,4600m),C1(27/10,5650m),C2(07/11,6050m),Smt(08/11)
accidents: Hunter was heli-rescued from C1 on 9/11 at 9 am (is OK now).
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  BC  23/10  4600m
  C1  27/10  5650m
  C2  07/11  6050m
  Smt 08/11  by James Dean, Whitney Dean, Lakpa Rita Sherpa, Ngima Tenzing Sherpa, 
             Fur Kancha Sherpa at 8:20 am.

  Summiters started from C2 at 1:15 am, at summit at 8:20 am, down to C1 at 8 pm. Good weather. On summit push Hunter developed HAPE at 6450m and Spitzer went down with him to C1.

  Stark got a cold and had to abandon expedition at BC. Follows and Solmonson reached C2 on 28/10 but did not spend the night. Solmonson had problems with his knees on the descent and decided to abandon the expedition. Follows decided to abandon the expedition due to a chest infection. On top of that the weather forecast was bad for a few days.

  Team left BC on 09/11.

  Oxygen: used by David Hunter for medical emergency at C1.

  Sherpas: 
    Lakpa Rita Sherpa (S), Thami (lives in Seattle)
    Karma Sarki Sherpa (6450m), Phortse
    Ang Norbu Sherpa (C2), Thami
    Ngima Tenzing Sherpa (S), Thami
    Phura Kancha Sherpa (S), Thami


expid: AMAD18310
peakid: AMAD
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Jim Williams
sponsor: Explorodus Ama Dablam Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2018-11-16
smtdate: 2018-11-21
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2018-11-23
campsites: BC(16/11,4575m),C1(19/11),C2(20/11,6300m),Smt(21/11)
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  Summit team left C2 at 6:30 pm on 20/11, summited at 11:30 am on 21/11, then returned to C1. Good conditions, less ice than previous years ago. Perfect weather and clear skies.


expid: AMAD18311
peakid: AMAD
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Hans-Jochen Netzer
sponsor: Amical Alpin Ama Dablam Expedition 2018
countries: Austria
approach: Lukla->Gokyo->Cho La->Lobuche->Ama Dablam BC
bcdate: 2018-10-25
smtdate: 2018-11-02
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2018-11-05
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East
campsites: BC(25/10,4600m),C1(30/10,5700m),Smt(02/11)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  25/10  4600m
  C1  30/10  5700m
  Smt 02/11  by Walter, Gruber, Erhard, Hess, Gyaltsen Nuru and Ang Tendi.

  Summiters started from C1 at 11:30 pm on 01/11, on summit at 1:00-1:50 pm, back to C2 at 8 pm. Good weather, good views.

  Manuel Happe, Florentine Ehlers and Thomas Ehlers abandoned expedition in Gokyo before the climb. Happe developed AMS, Ehlers had a spinal disc herniation.
   
  Forst reached 5600m and abandoned climb because he had a cold.

  Ramsebner turned back at 6100m at 12 am because she had a cold.

  Bogenschuetz turned back shortly after C1 because of difficulty.

  Putz, Bayer and Netzer turned back at 6100m at 3 am because of sickness and exhaustion.

  Team left BC on 05/11.
   
  Oxygen: taken for emergency, not used.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Nuru Sherpa (6100m)
    Gyaltsen Nuru Sherpa (S)
    Ang Tendi Sherpa (S)


expid: AMAD18312
peakid: AMAD
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Luc Bremond
sponsor: French-Swiss Ama Dablam Expedition 2018
countries: Switzerland
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2018-10-17
smtdate: 2018-10-26
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2018-10-28
campsites: BC(17/10,4600m),C1(21/10,5600m),C2(25/10,6000m),Smt(26/10)
accidents: 1st degree frostbite for Jean-Marc Morschel right hand, previously frostbitten on Everest.
agency: Ever Quest Expeditions
routememo:
  BC  17/10  4600m
  C1  19/10  5600m deposit, 21/10 sleeping
  C2  25/10  6000m
  Smt 26/10  by Jean-Luc Bremond at 9 am.

  All members except Thomas Richard made a deposit at C1 on October 19. 

  Bremond, Bonzon and Morschel slept at C1 on October 21. On the day after went up to C2 reached at 11 am, then all went down to BC. Bonzon was helped by 2 Sherpas from the team during this trip (for these Sherpas it was the high point of the expedition also). 

  On summit day, Bremond started from C2 at midnight, reaching the top at at 9 am in clear sky conditions despite cold and windy. Stayed 2:30 on top waiting for Morschel - who never reached the top, doing pictures and videos. Started back down at 11:30 am, reaching C2 at 4:30 pm, where Morschel was resting (had 3 frostbitten bones in the right hand). Slept there and reached BC on the day after, 27 October. Left BC on the day after.  

  Bremond and Morschel climbed without Sherpas. Only Bonzon was meant to climb with Jamling Sherpa on summit day, but she had decided to abandon on 22 October. 

  Fixed rope: fixed by other teams.
  	
  Team left BC on 28 October.  

  Members: 

  Jean-Luc Bremond. Summit on October 26.

  Patricia Jose Bonzon. Hight point at C2 on October 22nd; on descent decided to abandon, due to technical difficulties of the route, already between C1 and C2. Was meant to climb with Jamling Sherpa (holds an UIAGM medal of mountain guide).

  Paul-Andree Jaccard, High point at C1 on October 19. Abandonned because of tiredness (good mountaineer who had climbed Cervin and Eiger north faces).

  Jean-Marc Morschel. High point at 6200m on October 26, above grey tower, between C2 and C3. Was slower than Jean-Luc Bremond. After passing the grey tower, Morschel told Bremond to continue without waiting for him since him wanted to shoot some video of other climbers during the night. As he did so he lost a glove blown in the wind, which led him to get 3 bones of the right hand to be frostbitten (minor 1st degree). Had had already same hand frostbitten on Everest in the past.

  Thomas Richard. High point at 4600m at BC. Went too fast during the approach march above Namche to the BC, leading him to get AMS up there. Days after arrival to BC he got sick. Didn't go up with others to C1 on October 19. Went down to Tengboche on October 20 at 8:30 am, then to Namche Bazar where he met with a doctor, then Lukla and KTM. 

  Hired: 
    Jamling Sherpa
    Sherpa 2, high point on October 22nd at C2
    Sherpa 3, high point on October 22nd at C2


expid: AMAD18313
peakid: AMAD
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Malaysia
leaders: Doris Situan
sponsor: Malaysian Ama Dablam Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2018-10-12
smtdate: 2018-10-20
smttime: 1046
termdate: 2018-10-26
campsites: BC(12/10,4700m),C1(15/10,5800m),C2(16/10,6100m),C3()22/10,6400m),Smt(20,23/10)
agency: Ever Quest Expeditions
routememo:
  BC  12/10  4700m
  C1  15/10  5800m
  C2  16/10  6100m
  C3  22/10  6400m
  Smt 20/10  by Khoo, Pasang Temba Bhote at 10.46 am
  Smt 23/10  by Sitaun, Jamling Bhote and Nosang Bhote at 2 pm.

  Khoo and Pasang Bhote started their summit push from C2 at 1:34 am. Straightforward climb. It was very windy. They descended to C2, where they arrived at 5:26 pm.

  Sitaun, Jamling and Nosang Bhote left C3 at 7:45 am. It was very windy. Straightforward climb. They spent about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to C3, where they arrived at 5:30 pm.

  On 24/10 everyone down to BC. Team left BC on 26/10.

  Sherpas:
    Temba Bhote, Sankhuwasabha, Makalu 
    Jamling Bhote, Hungung, Makalu-Barun, 28/12/1977
    Ridar Nosang Bhote, Hatiya-1, Makalu-Barun, 22/10/1978


expid: AMAD18314
peakid: AMAD
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Paul Noble
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Ama Dablam Expedition 2018
countries: Portugal, Switzerland
approach: Lukla->Island Peak->Ama Dablam BC
bcdate: 2018-10-26
smtdate: 2018-11-02
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2018-11-03
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(26/10,4600m),C1(31/10,5400m),C2(01/11,5700m),Smt(02/11)
agency: Makalu Adventure (Snowy Horizon pmt)
routememo:
  BC  26/10  4600m
  C1  31/10  5400m
  C2  01/11  5700m
  Smt 02/11  by Lussi, Phurba Wangchhu Sherpa.

  Lussi and Phurba Wangchhu set off from C2 at 1 am, reached summit at 8 am, down to BC at 4 pm. It was getting windy, team was at the end of a good weather period. Summit very exposed and very windy.

  Michie and Zorro reached C1 on 31/10. They decided not to go higher because of difficulty of climb.

  Ang Dawa and Noble got to 5600m on 01/11. Noble had a bad cough and was afraid of HAPE and decided to not climb higher.

  Team left BC on 03/11.

  Hired: 
    Ang Dawa Sherpa (5600m)
    Phurba Wangchhu Sherpa (S)


expid: AMAD18315
peakid: AMAD
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Davide Chiesa
sponsor: Pioneer Adventures Ama Dablam Expedition 2018
countries: India, Nepal, Switzerland
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2018-10-23
smtdate: 2018-11-01
smttime: 0607
termdate: 2018-11-02
campsites: BC(23/10,4600m),C1(26/10,5600m),C2(31/10,6100m),Smt(01/11)
agency: Pioneer Adventure
routememo:
  BC  23/10  4600m
  C1  26/10  5800m
  C2  31/10  6100m
  Smt 01/11  by all members except Sahoo, and all Sherpas.

  Chawale and Chhangba Sherpa started from C2 at 10:48 pm summited at 6:07 am. Chawale back to C2 at 1 pm, one hour rest at C2, then down to C1 and BC at 7:30 pm. Beautiful weather on summit, just very cold. Chawale stayed on the summit for 50 minutes.

  Client Dabuti (Barista Dawa) Sherpa summited at 7 am.

  Chiesa, Francesconi, Lakpa Sherpa and hired Dawa [Nada?] Sherpa left C2 at 8 pm, summited at 6:20 am, then down to BC. Very very cold, windy, -25C.

  Sahoo reached C2. He had AMS and abandoned expedition on 30/10. He took a helicopter from BC to Lukla on 31/10.

  Members:
    Bhagwan Chawale (S)
    Davide Chiesa (Italy) (S)
    Renata Francesconi (Italy) (S)
    Dabuti (Barista Dawa) Sherpa (Nepali female climbing as a client) (S)
    Nrusingh Sahoo (C2) 

  Hired:
    Lakpa Sherpa (S)
    Chhangba Sherpa (S)
    Pasang Sherpa (S)
    Dawa [Nada?] Sherpa (S) [Nada Sherpa according to Ministry]


expid: AMAD18316
peakid: AMAD
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Jyamchang Bhote
sponsor: High Himalayan Ama Dablam Expedition 2018
countries: Belgium, Chile
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2018-10-06
smtdate: 2018-10-10
smttime: 1345
termdate: 2018-10-11
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East and Island Peak
campsites: BC(06/10,4600m),C1(07/10,5800m),C2(09/10,6000m),Smt(10/10)
agency: High Himalayan Climbing (Ever Quest pmt)
routememo:
  BC  06/10  4600m
  C1  07/10  5800m (1 day rest)
  C2  09/10  6000m
  Smt 10/10  by all 3 members at 1:45 pm.
  	
  Team left BC on 11 October.

  Fixed rope: fixed 3 pitches after C2, then alpine-style.

  Schedule:
    Oct 07: BC to C1
    Oct 09: C1 to C2
    Oct 10: Smt push started from C2 at 2 am, summit at 1:45 pm, back to C2 at 7 pm
    Oct 11: C2 to BC to Pangboche.


expid: AMAD18317
peakid: AMAD
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Taras Pozdnii
sponsor: Ukrainian Ama Dablam Expedition 2018
countries: Russia
approach: Lukla->Island Peak->Ama Dablam BC
bcdate: 2018-11-04
smtdate: 2018-11-07
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2018-11-08
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(04/11,4600m),C1(05/11,5900m),C2(06/11,6100m),Smt(07,12/11)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  BC  04/11  4600m
  C1  05/11  5900m
  C2  06/11  6100m
  Smt 07/11  by Pozdnii, Solodukhin, Mykhailenko, Kopteva
  Smt 12/11  by Balabanov.

  Summit team on 07/11 started from C2 at 1 am, reached summit at 12:30 pm, back to C2 at 4 pm (Taras), others at 6 pm. Very good weather, good conditions. Team stayed on summit for about 30 minutes.

  Balabanov on 12/11 summited alone from BC. Started from BC at 2 am, summit at 11:20 am, down to BC at 5 pm.

  Boiko was hit by rock on the face on 07/11. Balabanov went down with her to BC. 
  Boiko was evacuated by helicopter from BC to KTM on 08/11. She is Okay now. Accident happened at 6150m, not far from C2.

  Koval and Safonkin didn't have enough power for summit. They reached C3 (6400m) on summit push and went down together with Jangbu Sherpa.

  Team left BC on 08/11.

  Members:
    Taras Pozdnii (S)
    Jurii Solodukhin (S)
    Anatoliy Mykhailenko (S)
    Marina Kopteva (S)
    Nikita Balabanov (S)
    Nataliia Boiko (6150m)
    Mariia Koval (6400m)
    Stepan Safonkin (6400m)

  Hired:
    Jangbu Sherpa (6400m)


expid: AMAD18318
peakid: AMAD
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Wolfgang Socher
sponsor: Austrian Ama Dablam Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Renjo La->Gokyo->BC
bcdate: 2018-10-25
smtdate: 2018-11-01
smttime: 0850
termdate: 2018-11-02
campsites: BC(25/10,4600m),C1(31/10,5800m),Smt(01/11)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  Socher and Hain started from C1 at 1 am on 1 Nov, summited at 8:50 am, then down to base camp at 8 pm. Good conditions.


expid: AMAD18319
peakid: AMAD
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Javier Herreros Pena
sponsor: Spainish Ama Dablam Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Kalapattar->Ama Dablam BC
bcdate: 2018-10-12
smtdate: 2018-10-17
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2018-10-21
campsites: BC(12/10,4600m),C1(15/10),C2(16/10),Smt(17/10)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Herreros and Gomolion started from C2 at 5 am, summited at 11:30 am, then descended to C2 at 3 pm. Route was climbing rock at the C2, mixed at the C3 and snow fixed to summit.


expid: AMAD18320
peakid: AMAD
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Arnold Coster
sponsor: Arnold Coster Expeditions Ama Dablam 2018
countries: Belgium, China, UK
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2018-10-30
smtdate: 2018-11-01
termdate: 2018-11-04
campsites: BC(30/10,4600m),C1(31/10,5600m),Smt(01/11)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  From Sophie Lenaerts:

  No snow in C1, pich the tent under the slabs and fixed lines. No snow in the couloir between C2 and C3. We made ascent from C1, starting at midnight direcly towards summit. Reached highest point at 8:30 am. Lots off wind, other people where descending from summit.


  From Coster:

  Sherpas:
    Karma Sherpa, Makalu-Barun
    Pem Nurbu, Makalu-Barun
    Lakpa Tenjin, Makalu-Barun
    Pasang, Makalu-Barun


expid: AMAD18323
peakid: AMAD
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Casey Grom
sponsor: American-Kosovar Ama Dablam Expedition 2018
countries: Kosovo
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2018-10-24
smtdate: 2018-10-30
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2018-10-31
campsites: BC(24/10,4600m),C1(28/10,5800m),C2(29/10,6100m),Smt(30/10)
agency: TAGnepal Trekking
routememo:
  Team left C2 at 4 am on 20 Oct, summited at 10:30 am, stayed 20-30 minutes, then down to C1 at 6:30 pm.

  The route was drier then normal. All the fixed rope was static and 10mm or greater which was great. However, many anchors need to be replaced and C1 and C2 need toilets installed. Climbers have contaminated both camps with human waste.


expid: AMAD18324
peakid: AMAD
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Bertrand Martenet
sponsor: Swiss Ama Dablam Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2018-10-28
smtdate: 2018-11-07
smttime: 1530
termdate: 2018-11-11
campsites: BC(28/10,4600m),C1(31/10,5800m),C2(06/11,6100m),Smt(07/11)
agency: TAGnepal Trekking
routememo:
  BC  28/10  4600m
  C1  31/10  5800m
  C2  06/11  6100m
  Smt 07/11  by Martenet, Fresard, Gombu Sherpa, Namgel Sherpa.

  Team started from C2 at 6:30 am, summited at 3:30 pm, back to C2 at 10 pm. Perfect conditions, no clouds, quite warm.

  Team left BC on 11/11.

  Hired: 
    Gombu Sherpa (S)
    Namgel Sherpa (S)


expid: AMAD18325
peakid: AMAD
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Timo Widmer
sponsor: Swiss Ama Dablam Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2018-11-01
smtdate: 2018-11-08
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2018-11-10
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East
campsites: BC(01/11,4600m),C1(04/11,5700m),C2(07/11,6000m),Smt(08/11)
agency: TAGnepal Trekking
routememo:
  BC  01/11  4600m
  C1  04/11  5700m
  C2  07/11  6000m
  Smt 08/11  by Timo Widmer, Nima Tashi Sherpa.

  Started from C2 at midnight, reached the summit at 9:30 am, stayed on the summit for around 20 minutes, then all the way to BC at 7 pm. No wind, good weather.

  Team left BC on 10/11.

  Hired:
    Nima Tashi Sherpa, Gudel-4, 25/11/88


expid: AMAD18326
peakid: AMAD
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Argentina
leaders: Diego Grogovinas
sponsor: Argentinean-German Ama Dablam Expedition 2018
countries: Germany
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2018-10-13
smtdate: 2018-10-20
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2018-10-22
campsites: BC(13/10,4600m),C1(16/10,5800m),C2(19/10,6050m),Smt(20/10)
agency: Sherpa Shepherds (Prestige Adventure pmt)
routememo:
  BC  13/10  4600m
  C1  16/10  5800m
  C2  19/10  6050m
  Smt 20/10  by Ivonne Ries, Pemba Dorje Sherpa, Diego Grogovinas.

  Started at 1 am from C2, summitted at 8 am, back to BC at 5 pm. They stayed only 10 minutes on the summit. It was very cold, very windy.

  Team left BC on: Ries: 21/10, others: 22/10

  Hired:
    Pemba Dorje Sherpa (S)


expid: AMAD18327
peakid: AMAD
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Nirmal Purja
sponsor: Elite Exped Ama Dablam Expedition 2018
countries: Andorra, Sweden
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2018-10-29
smtdate: 2018-11-01
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2018-11-12
campsites: BC(29/10,4600m),C1(31/10,5800m),C2(10/11,6100m),Smt(01,11/11)
agency: Elite Exped (Himalayan Guides pmt)
routememo:
  BC  29/10  4600m
  C1  31/10  5800m
  Smt 01/11  by Nirmal Purja
  C2  10/11  6100m
  Smt 11/11  by Mingma Sherpa, Nirmal Purja, Troguet Torres.

  Nims summited twice this season. On the 01/11 he summited the first time, climbing alone. He started from C1 at 1:30 am, reached summit at 11 am. down to C2 at 4 pm.

  Second summit was with clients on 11/11. They started from C2 at 2 am, reached the summit at 8:30 am, down to BC at 6:30 pm.

  Nyberg couldn't acclimatize well. He reached C1 on 31/10 and abandoned expedition because he wasn't feeling well.

  Team left BC on 12/11.

  Hired:
    Mingma David Sherpa, Taplejung


expid: AMAD18328
peakid: AMAD
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Luciano Locatelli
sponsor: Satori Ama Dablam Expedition 2018
countries: Germany
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2018-10-22
smtdate: 2018-11-01
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2018-11-03
campsites: BC(22/10),C1,C2,Smt(01/11)
agency: Satori Adventures
routememo:
  BC  22/10
  C1
  C2
  Smt 01/11  by Locatelli.

  Locatelli started his summit push from C2 at the midnight of 31 Oct and got to the summit at 8 am of 1 Nov. He returned to C2 at 10 am, then continued to C1 where he arrived at 4 pm. 

  Locatelli was met at the Ministry and did not speak English; he was in hurry.

  Left BC on 3 Nov BC to Lukla.

  1 Sherpa above BC?


expid: AMAD18329
peakid: AMAD
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Francesco De Michelis
sponsor: Italian Ama Dablam Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2018-10-15
smtdate: 2018-10-17
smttime: 0611
termdate: 2018-10-17
campsites: BC(15/10,4200m),C1,C2,Smt(17/10)
agency: Info Nepal Treks (Snowy Horizon pmt)
routememo:
  Team set out from high camp at midnight, summited at 6:11 am, then descended to BC. Stayed on top 10 minutes, temperature -22C.

  Media reports team took 18 hours to reach the summit from the start of the climb.


expid: AMAD18330
peakid: AMAD
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Remigi Tschuor
sponsor: Swiss Ama Dablam Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Gokyo trekking (three passes)->Lobuche East->Ama Dablam BC
bcdate: 2018-11-03
smtdate: 2018-11-05
smttime: 0815
termdate: 2018-11-06
campsites: BC(03/11,4570m),C1(04/11,5650m),Smt(05/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Tschuor and Dorje Gyalzen left C1 at 00:20 am, summited at 8:15 am, stayed 20 minutes, then descended to BC at 6:45 pm. Perfect conditions; cold; windy (up to 60 km/h); first time in the sun at the top of Ama Dablam (very cold).

  Climbed Ama Dablam within 32 hours from Base Camp.


expid: AMAD18332
peakid: AMAD
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Chen Xue
sponsor: Chinese Ama Dablam Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2018-10-15
smtdate: 2018-10-26
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2018-10-28
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak and Lobuche East
campsites: BC(15/10,4500m),C1(20/10,5700m),C2(25/10,5900m),Smt(26/10)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  15/10  4500m
  C1  20/10  5700m
  C2  25/10  5900m
  Smt 26/10  by Chen Xue, Vinayak Jaya Malla 

  Team started from C2 at 11 pm, reached the summit at 11 am, back to C2 at 7 pm.

  Left BC on 28 Oct.
   
  Hired: 
    Vinayak Jaya Malla (S)


expid: AMAD18334
peakid: AMAD
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Romania
leaders: Justin Ionescu
sponsor: Romanian Ama Dablam Expedition 2018
smtdate: 2018-10-22
smttime: 1000
campsites: BC,C1,C2,Smt(10/22)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  From HotNews.ro, 25 Oct 2018

  Laura Mares, legitimized the Alpine Club Carpathian Bucharest Division Elite Mountaineering, accompanied by Justin Ionescu, coach mountaineering and climbing, managed on 22 October at 10 am, the ascent to the highest point of Ama Dablam (6812m), without Sherpa support and without the use of bottled oxygen, according to the Romanian Federation of climbing and climbing.

  The expedition began on October 5 in Kathmandu, the two following a necessary acclimatization Valley Kumbu to Ama Dablam base camp and several mountain tours, during which they arranged themselves two intermediate camps to the top.

  The team reached the peak of the classic and most popular route, the south-west. The rise began in Camp 2, at 2 am and lasted 8:00, and covers a route very technical and steep overhangs in places involving mixed climbing on rock, ice and snow. Its sharp edges and steep faces make Ama Dablam be called the Matterhorn of the Himalayas.


expid: AMAD18340
peakid: AMAD
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Tshering Pande Bhote
sponsor: Top Himalaya Guides (THG) Ama Dablam Expedition 2018
countries: Australia, Germany, India, Lebanon, Norway
smtdate: 2018-11-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to bad weather
campsites: BC,C1,C2(14/11,6000m),xxx(15/11,6300m)
agency: Top Himalaya Guides
routememo:
  Davis died in descent from above C2 after expedition was abandoned due to bad weather. A huge rockfall damaged the ropes that Davis was using during his descent.


  From the Himalayan Times, 16 Nov 2018

  An Australian climber was killed when a huge rock fell from the high camp of Mt Ama Dablam damaging the climbing route in the Mt Everest region, according to the expedition organiser.

  Tshering Pande Bhote, Managing Director at Top Himalaya Guides Pvt Ltd said that 33-year-old Michael Geoffrey Davis from Australia fell to his death above Camp II on Mt Ama Dablam after a huge rock damaged the climbing ropes that the climbers were using for descend the 6812 metre-peak yesterday.

  According to Bhote, the incident occurred when a group of 15 climbers including high altitude guides were descending from Camp III [site] following a strong wind. “The mountaineer fell to his death after a huge rock damaged the ropes he was using to descend the mountain,” he informed. Other members of the expedition were, however, safe, he added.


expid: AMAD18347
peakid: AMAD
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Brazil
leaders: Carlos Eduardo Santalena
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Ama Dablam Expedition 2018
countries: Australia, France, Germany, Norway, Switzerland
smtdate: 2018-10-27
campsites: BC,C1,C2,Smt(27,29,31/10,22/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Luke Rollnik report:

  BC  20/10
  C1  23/10
  C2  28/10
  Smt 29/10  by Rollnik and Siddhi Bahadur Tamang.

  Rollnik and Siddhi Bahadur Tamang left C2 at 1:30 am on 29/10 and got to the summit at 12:.30 pm and stayed on summit for about 45 minutes. They met two climbers descending while they were going up, there was nobody else. They returned C2 at 6 pm and slept there. Next day they went down to BC and left BC on 1/11.


expid: AMAD18349
peakid: AMAD
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Michael Coyle
sponsor: American Ama Dablam Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2018-11-06
smtdate: 2018-11-08
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2018-11-10
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East
campsites: ABC(06/11,5600m),C1(07-08/11,5900m),Smt(08/11)
agency: Namaste Treks (Khumbu Shangri-La Nepal pmt)
routememo:
  Anna Callaghan - 30 April 2019

  A week of incredibly high winds yielded a few days of near perfect weather: clear skies and very light wind, allowing us to climb in light leather gloves, which made dealing with gear much easier. A truly perfect weather window. 


expid: AMAD18354
peakid: AMAD
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Liliya Ianovskaia
sponsor: TAGnepal Trekking Ama Dablam Expedition 2018
countries: Australia, Switzerland, UK
smtdate: 2018-11-08
campsites: Smt(08-09/11)
agency: TAGnepal Trekking
routememo:
  Liliya and Daria Ianovskaia summited on 9 Nov with Lama Babu and Dawa Dendi.

  The four Swiss (Bourdon, Henchoz, Monaco and Percia David) summited on 9 Nov without Sherpa support.


expid: AMAD18355
peakid: AMAD
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Jing-Sheng Cai
sponsor: Climbalaya Ama Dablam Expedition 2018
countries: Bangladesh, China, Germany, Lithuania, Poland, Switzerland
smtdate: 2018-10-31
campsites: Smt(31/10,11/11)
agency: Climbalaya & Imagine Nepal
routememo:
  The Polish members (Kasztanowsk, Rozen, Somerlik and Strelau) were clients of Ryszard Jan Pawlowski.

  Li Gao was a client of Imagine Treks and summited 31 Oct at 8:40 am with Tamting Sherpa:

  From Mingma Gyalje's FB page:

  Mr. Gao Li and Tamting Sherpa left from Kathmandu on 26 October to Lukla. They both reached Namche on 27 Oct, Pangboche on 28 Oct, Ama Dablam basecamp on 29 Oct and ascent to C1 on 30 Oct and started their summit push from C1. Today 31 Oct at 8:40 am, they made Ama Dablam summit. Congratulations to them.


expid: AMAD18356
peakid: AMAD
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Aleksei Lonchinskiy
sponsor: 7 Summits Club Ama Dablam Expedition 2018
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(4700m),C1(5800m),C2(6100m),xxx
agency: 7 Summits Adventure (Himalayan Guides pmt)
routememo:
  Alex Lonchinsky, 03/11/2018 18:24

  Greetings from climbers on Ama Dablam! Today we went down from acclimatization rotation. We climbed to camp 2 (6100) and spent two nights in camp 1 (5800). Mikhail and Vadim coped normally with mountain adaptation. Now we went down to Pangboche (4000), where we plan to rest…

  Now, according to the forecast and feelings, the bad weather is coming.  When the favorable forecast will be clear, we will plan to start for summit climb.


expid: AMAD18357
peakid: AMAD
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Angelo Lobina
sponsor: Italian Ama Dablam Expedition 2018
smtdate: 2018-10-27
smttime: 0900
campsites: BC(4700m),C1,C2(26/10,6000m),Smt(27/10)
agency: Satori Adventures (Himalayan Guides pmt)
routememo:
  From www.sardegna7summits.it/index.php/ama-dablam-6812-mt

  AMA DABLAM - ANGELO IN CIMA

  Nepal, Ama Dablam (6812). Today October 27, 2018 Angelo Lobina has trodden the top of this beautiful mountain.

  AMA DABLAM - 6812m, October 26, 2018

  Hello everyone, Angelo these days is involved in the takeover attempt of Ama Dablam. Finally, after long and grueling wait, two days ago could start climbing. First night in Camp 1, second night in Camp 2 where there is also at this time. Tomorrow, weather and conditions permitting, they will attempt the summit. The boys need our moral support, and strength and courage, we can not wait to return to know you are happy.

  AMA DABLAM - THE MATTERHORN OF THE HIMALAYAS, October 20, 2018

  As you know in recent days Angelo had to give up the initial project that led him to Nepal with the aim to climb Pumori, for the reasons explained to us. However, he has not lost his nerve and decided to take part in another expedition that will see him in the coming weeks in climbing of what is considered "one of the most beautiful mountains in the world", Ama Dablam whose meaning in Nepali language is "Mother with necklace", also known as the "Matterhorn of the Himalayas. It's prestigious mountain whose ascent is coveted for both its beauty and for the technical difficulty, less exposed to the risks of the objective Pumori, such as avalanches, of stones discharges, crevices, etc. Known as the Himalayan Matterhorn. Ama Dablam, the sacred mountain, stands majestically in Kumbu valley with its 6814 meters standing out with its unmistakable silhouette beyond the village of Pangboche. Wonderful! In these days of waiting for the new permit Angelo is located at the base camp and try to keep fit and acclimated with forays to the camp 1.


expid: AMAD18359
peakid: AMAD
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Norway
leaders: Elisabeth Sorasen
sponsor: Ascent Himalaya
countries: China, Iceland, UK
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->BC
smtdate: 2018-11-09
smttime: 0830
campsites: BC,C1,C2,Smt(09,25/11)
agency: Ascent Himalayas
routememo:
  Main team arrived at BC on 11 Nov (4 others arrived earlier).

  Matthew Stanbridge was an independent climber that came earlier.


expid: AMAD18360
peakid: AMAD
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: James Holding
sponsor: Jagged Globe Ama Dablam Expedition 2018
countries: Australia, Canada, New Zealand
smtdate: 2018-11-19
campsites: BC(4600m),ABC(55000m),C1(5700m),C2(5900m),Smt(19,28/11,08/12)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  Report from Jagged Globe website:

  Conditions on the mountain were good. The Dablam serac looked benign, with a corridor on it’s righthand side up the headwall. The rock ridge to Camp 2 was virtually free of snow and ice, offering the enticing prospect of sun-kissed, solid granite scrambling. Was it really going to be Fire and Ice? Approach shoes for the rock and a switch at Camp 2, to boots with altitude and crampons for snow? Pemchhiri had recent experience, just days earlier, with Robert, extending his Cholatse expedition for a Khumbu double. Young Sherpas, Gyan and Babu, keen to add Ama Dablam to their logbooks, confirmed our hopes. The season so far had been dry but high winds had also been a feature. With our summit phase scheduled for December, we knew we would have the mountain to ourselves, yet we required a calm weather window to keep the windchill of low temperatures at bay.

  Patience was needed, as was further acclimatisation, a four day rotation phase. We headed up for a night at advanced base, continuing the next day, past Camp 1 at 5700m, to gain 5800m along the fixed ropes, before returning for a first night there. Camp 2 and the legendary Yellow Tower were the next days objectives. With just light rucksacks for the day and light footwear, we set out with high hopes and warming rock. Camp 2 lies just beyond the crux rock pitch on the tower and even fixed ropes make this a gasping experience at 5900m. Andrew tackled it cleanly, to the amusement of the Sherpas, as he found a precarious resting place, without weighting the safeguarding, fixed line. As a single pitch at sea level it would weigh in as a quality HVS. I weaved my way, following his example, chuffing like a steam train, to latch the finishing edge and a moment of ridiculous glory.

  We slid down the solid lines and tailed the traverse ropes to regain Camp 1 and I insisted we spend another night there. At least the next day back to base would see us served one of Kanchha’s feasts.

  Rest and active recovery were the order of the next couple of days, even a slow walk to 5200m was imposed. My mantra of “listen to the mountain” and “listen to yourself” was repeated, to focus peoples’ minds in readiness for the challenge to come. We discussed clothing and tactics to prevent the very real risk of ‘cold injury’ and Mark and I made daily checks on the mountain forecast via WiFi and 4G at signal point – not quite from the comfort of the mess tent but not too far from base. We tracked an upcoming weather window.

  It takes maturity to listen carefully enough to one’s feelings about a summit bid. Ewan and Mark chose with the wisdom of their years of mountain experience. We will share other summit bids in the future. With Kamchanu Sherpa paired with Tony, Rakesh with Hannah, Rinji with Andrew, Pem to lead with Fatima, allowing me mobility, we left base, aiming to slowly gain Camp 2 in two days.

  The night at Camp 2 was going to be a short one, with a start scheduled for 2am. Stars lit the inky night and the winds were light, so the stoves were lit at 1am. Crampons scratched on the rock of the Grey Tower but soon runnels of snow and ice got our hearts thumping, blood pumping and lungs panting. Hand warmers slipped into gloves kept fingers nimble enough to manage ascender switches. Surely sunrise would bring some warmth? Tony knew himself well enough from Seven Summits and more to retreat to base in control. The remainder plugged on, yearning for daylight.

  The Mushroom Ridge had little snow but dawn brought the steep barrier of ice cliffs below the level playing field, where prior to an avalanche in 2006 a camp used to be situated. We strained up the lines and there before us lay 500m of headwall.

  Set at forty to fifty degrees the slope to summit made it seem close, it wasn’t. In tune with Pem, it took little more than a nod upwards and a few words to confirm our window of opportunity was open wide enough to proceed, even though we knew, after six hours of effort, we needed four more for the ascent, with a further five to slide the lines back down, minimum.

  The Sun joined us for our slow-motion promenade. I drifted upwards, passing pairings, looking carefully. Near the Dablam, Fatima and Pem turned around, only four hundred metres left and she’s strong but smart too. Andrew continued, two thousand metres higher than his European best. Rinji led and I kept an imaginary elastic, ten double steps long, between Andrew and me. The summit ridge line edging closer. Hannah persisting behind us with every step an effort of will.

  The summit vista was huge. The task of descending was no small matter either, requiring care and concentration. There was soup and sleep waiting for us, the end of a big day. Only hours later we were down at base.

  Jamie Holding, IFMGA


expid: AMAD18401
peakid: AMAD
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Aedan Muloney
sponsor: Australian Ama Dablam Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2018-12-08
smtdate: 2018-12-12
termdate: 2018-12-14
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to bad weather and exhaustion
campsites: BC(08/12,4600m),C1(10/12,5600m),C2(11/12,5900m),xxx(12/12,6300m)
agency: Rasuwa Treks
routememo:
  BC  08/12  4600m
  C1  10/12  5600m
  C2  11/12  5900m
  HPt 12/12  6300m

  Could not go beyond 6300m due to bad weather and exhaustion. Evacuated from C2 on 14 Dec and admitted to CIWIC clinic for treatment.

  Hired:
    Karma Gyaljen, 10/01/2044, Khumjung, Everest
    Dilip Tamang, 2039/04/08, Bhaktapur, Nagarkot


expid: ANN118301
peakid: ANN1
year: 2018
route1: NW Face
nation: Russia
leaders: Vitali Lazo
sponsor: Russian Death Zone Free-ride Annapurna I Expedition 2018
bcdate: 2018-09-18
smtdate: 2018-09-26
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to high risk avalanches and falling ice
campsites: BC(18/09,4300m),C1(19/09,5100m),C2(20/09,5650m),C3(26/09,6300m),xxx
agency: Makalu Extreme Treks
routememo:
  Very high risk of avalanches 5900m above. Weather was good. Snow conditions were awful, very deep. Team made ski descent from 6000m.


expid: ANN418301
peakid: ANN4
year: 2018
route1: NW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Diahanne Gilbert
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Annapurna IV Expedition 2018
countries: Canada, Spain, USA
approach: Drive Pokara->Chame->Honge->Sabej Khola->BC
bcdate: 2018-10-27
smtdate: 2018-11-10
termdate: 2018-11-13
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to exhaustion and still too far from top
campsites: BC(27/10,4815m),C1(31/10,5450m),C2(02/11,5800m),C3(09/11,6500m),xxx(10/11,7300m)
agency: Makalu Adventure
routememo:
  Team of Gilbert, Ulyett, Hernando Blazquez, Phurba, Norbu, Norbu, Biri, Lakpa stopped at 7300m after 10 hours push in breakable crust in very cold temperatures (the true summit was at least another 4 hours away which would have caused problems). 

  Very little information was available to team. More technical and longer than envisioned. Team used 30 rolls of polypropylene to fix for example. Perhaps too ambitious for one commercial expedition.

  Sherpas:
    Phurba Ongel Sherpa (think he was on Cho Oyu recently) 
    Phursemeba Sherpa (last year Everest with AP's)
    Norbu Sherpa (Everest summiter both sides)
    Bire Tamang (Everest summiter)
    Lakpa Sherpa (Everest, Cho Oyu summiter)

  Sherpas:
    Phursemba Sherpa, 32, Makalu, Everest 2018 with Adventure Peaks
    Lhakpa Sherpa, 37, Makalu, Everest 2018 summit with 7 Summit Adv
    Biri Tamang, Himlung summit in 2017 with Adventure Peaks
    Norbu Sherpa, 40, Makalu, Everest 2018 C3 with a Chinese team 
    Norbu Chhiring, 36, Makalu, Everest summit 2018 with 7 Summit Adv
    Phurba Sherpa, 35, Makalu, Everest summit 2018 with Trekking Camp Nepal


expid: APIM18301
peakid: APIM
year: 2018
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Pavel Matousek
sponsor: Czech Api Himal Expedition 2018
approach: Bus from KTM to Darchula (Far West) via Gokuleshwar (3 days)
bcdate: 2018-09-24
smtdate: 2018-09-28
termdate: 2018-10-03
termnote: Abandoned due to difficult and unknown route
campsites: BC(24/09,3800m),C1(26/09,4300m),C2(27/09,5100m),xxx(5500m)
agency: Campobase Trek
routememo:
  BC  24/09  3800m (in BC south side of Api)
  C1  26/09  4300m
  C2  27/09  5100m
  Hpt 28/09  5500m  "West Pass" (west of Api) by Vit Auermuller.

  Climb abandoned on 28/09 due to difficult and unknown route. Team left south BC on 3 Oct.

  From Darchula they trekked to Huti, Sunsera, Tusarpani and Dumlin. They had planned to climb Api from the north via the "normal route" (NW Ridge), but once they reached Dumlin, local people told them it's impossible to go to the north side. They were told that the road to BC on north is damaged because of landslides. They could have gone by walk and cross the river with ropes, but it would have been too dangerous because of rockfall. They returned to Dumlin and tried to find another way.

  Locals told them there was an alternative trail to BC over hills, but it would have taken too much time and they were unsure about the condition of bridges on this trail. They thought of flying to BC by helicopter, but helicopter was too expensive, since there are no helicopters in the far west of Nepal.

  They eventually went back to Darchula and took jeeps to Pari Bagar (3-4 hours from Darchula). From Pari Bagar they started the 4-day trek to south BC of Api. First day to Ghunsa, second day to Khayekot, third day to Dhaulo Odar, fourth day to Thusa (3800m/BC). Base camp was at a beautiful location, they were surrounded by 6000m mountains. They went to west side of Api, slept at 4300m on grass side (C1), then went up to 5100m among crevasses (C2) on a glacier. There was a bad thunderstorm that night, with a lot of flashes. 

  From C2 they went north without tents for a pass. They wanted to find a way to the north side for a possible climbing route. Vit Auermuller reached the pass at 5500m, but saw that conditions on north side were unfavourable. The slope on the north was very steep, the weather looked unstable and they didn't have enough time to continue expedition on the north. Climbing the South Face of Api was out of question, too difficult, too steep. 

  They abandoned the expedition and went back to Pari Bagar in 2 days via Khayekot. From Pari Bagar they took a jeep to Seri. From there to Hanidori by bus where they spent a night, then bus to Chitwan. Spent 2 days in Chitwan before they returned to Kathmandu.


expid: BARU18301
peakid: BARU
year: 2018
route1: SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Don Wargowsky
sponsor: SummitClimb Baruntse Expedition 2018
countries: Australia, Finland, Germany, Ireland, Switzerland
approach: Lukla->Mera Peak->Baruntse BC
bcdate: 2018-10-27
smtdate: 2018-11-07
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2018-11-08
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak
campsites: BC(27/10,5425m),C1(02/11,6125m),C2(03/11,6400m),Smt(07,21/11)
achievment: Penttila youngest Finn to climb Baruntse
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  BC  27/10  5425m
  C1  02/11  6125m
  C2  03/11  6400m
  Smt 07/11  by Penttila, Wargowsky, Jangbu Sherpa, Chhewang Sherpa, Karma Sherpa
             [and a stray dog].

  Summiters started from C2 at 2 am, reached the summit at 11:30 am trhen all the way down to BC at 8:30 pm. Weather for summit day was good, prior to that a lot of wind. Good snow conditions.

  Grant Jasiunas left on second day of the trip due to a family emergency.

  Daryl Brown abandoned trip in Khare before the Mera climb due to lack of fitness.

  All other non-summit members abandoned climb at C2 (6400m). They didn't want to be in a rush on the hike out and decided to not go higher.

  Team left BC on: 4 pax on 06/11, 3 pax on 08/11

  A stray dog followed the team to the summit [see Outside Online article listed in the References section).

  Oxygen: taken to BC for emergency, not used

  Fixed rope: 1700m

  Hired: 
    Jangbu Sherpa (S) 
    Chhewang Sherpa (S)
    Karma Sherpa (S)
    Gyalze Sherpa (6800m) [rope-fixing?]
    Pasang Nuri Sherpa (no summit)


  A second group from SummitClimb arrived in mid-November:

    Garvan Lynch (Ireland)
    Marguerite O'Sullivan (Ireland)
    Sebastian Kegreiss (Switzerland)

  Kegreiss summited on 21 November according to the Ministry.


expid: BARU18302
peakid: BARU
year: 2018
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Ecuador
leaders: Topo Mena
sponsor: Ecuadorian Chamlang & Baruntse Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche Bazaar->Amphu Laptsa->Baruntse/Chamlang BC
bcdate: 2018-10-12
smtdate: 2018-10-25
termdate: 2018-11-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to avalanche danger
othersmts: Attempted Chamlang (CHAM-183-01)
campsites: BC(12/10,5100m),C1(15/10,6000m),C2(16/10,6500m),xxx(25/10,6700m)
agency: Xtreme Climbers
primid: CHAM18301
routememo:
  BC  12/10  5100m
  C1  15/10  6000m (near West Col)
  C2  16/10  6500m
  HPt 25/10  6700m (above C2 all members)

  Climb abandoned on: 25/10 due to avalanche danger.

  Main objective of team was to climb Chamlang. They attempted Baruntse for acclimatization. Their base camp for both attempts was at 5100m.

  On 17/10 they received a weather forecast indicating a period of good weather. First summit attempt on Baruntse on 17/10. But the wind was too strong and they decided to come down. A couple of days rest at BC and they explored the beginning of the North Face of Chamlang, their main objective. Second attempt on Baruntse on 25/10. They started from C1 at 2 am and reached high point at 6700m at 4:30 am. They decided to turned back because of avalanche danger. Back to BC the same day at 2 pm.


expid: BARU18303
peakid: BARU
year: 2018
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Stefan Wagemans
sponsor: Tseringma Treks Baruntse Expedition 2018
countries: Australia, Slovakia, Switzerland
approach: Lukla->Mera La->Baruntse BC
bcdate: 2018-10-31
smtdate: 2018-11-09
smttime: 1125
termdate: 2018-11-11
campsites: BC(31/10,5480m),C1(07/11,6150m),C2(08/11,6420m),Smt(09/11)
agency: Tseringma Treks
routememo:
  Summit team left C2, climbed for 7 hours, reached summit at 11:25 am, stayed 20 minutes, then descended to C2 in 2.5 hours.

accidents:
  Hellemans was rescued from Khare on 28 Oct by helicopter for AMS; Wagemans was rescued from Amphu Laptsa BC by helicopter for frostbitten toes.


expid: CBAM18401
peakid: CBAM
year: 2018
route1: SE Face-SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: John Kelley
sponsor: Chhopa Bamare Expedition Winter 2018-19
ascent1: 1st
countries: France
approach: Bus to Lamabagar, trekked north to Lumnang
bcdate: 2019-02-15
smtdate: 2019-02-28
smttime: 1700
termdate: 2019-03-02
campsites: BC(15/02,4000m),ABC(21/02,4900m),Biv1(23/02,5200m),Biv2(24/02),Biv3(25-27/02,5900m),Smt(28/02)
agency: Magical Nepal
routememo:
  BC  15/02  4000m approx below the base of South Sace. 
  ABC 21/02  4900m approx 
  Smt 28/02  by Kelley and Billet at 5 pm.

  Kelley and Billet left high camp (ABC) at 2:30 am on 22 Feb. They bived at 5200m approx on 23 Feb. Another biv at 5600m approx on 24 Feb. They spent night in their tent at around 5900m on 25, 26 and 27 Feb due to bad weather. They left for summit around 2 pm and got to the top at 5 pm on 28 Feb. They stayed on the summit for about 15 minutes (it was very cold and windy), then descended to 5900m camp where they reached around 8 pm. They spent the night there. Next day, 1 March they went down to their high camp where they arrived around midnight. The following day, 2 March descended to BC. There was not any sign of the BC, everything was swept away by an avalanche while they were climbing. They climbed in alpine-style using ropes most of the line but no fixed ropes.

  Route grade was 4, most of the route - ice mixed climb. Summit day weather was windy. Most of the climbing days were cloudy, windy and deep snow.

  It is the third attempt of Kelley on Chhopa Bamare. He was on the mountain in 2017 Dec, high point east summit 5900m approx on 24 Dec. Difficult route too hard for him to climb alone. 

  In 2018 March, high point at 4600m on 14 March -  heavy snow; left 18 March. 


  FB report by Ben Gustave about the First Ascent of Chhopa Bamare

  Chhopa Bamare (6109m) - First Ascent - winter expedition : 09/02/19-03/03/19

  The unusual snow conditions of this year completely changed the expedition. It’s been said that this was the snowiest winter in 25 years.

  From Katmandu, it took us 7 days to reach base camp instead of 3. The bus got stuck on the way to the last village Lamabagar, 2 of our 3 porters let us down as soon as they saw a few cm of snow on the trail, we then had to move back and forward to carry all the food and gear for a 30 days to expedition. From BC we only took the minimum of gear to high camp, but it still took us 3 more days.

  We started the climb on the 22nd of February at 2 am. The weather forecast was good with a few days of clear weather without snowfall, we would soon find out that it was completely wrong. Starting by climbing the spur following some snow gully and a bit of mixed climbing before a glacier traverse, we reached the bottom of the south face at 6:30 am. We climbed till 17:30 when the snowfall was too intense to continue. There was no place to bivy and small avalanches started to slide down the face. We cut a very small ledge (the biggest we could but just enough to stand on it), attached ourselves to an anchor and put the tent as a bivy bag over our head. Very long and exhausting night standing up in the cold with spindrift rolling over our head.

  Quite exhausted the next morning, we only did a few pitches before the snow began to fall again and we bivied once again on the face, but on a larger ledge this time.

  The 3rd day led us to the top of south face and could finally see the summit of Choppa Bamare. We went down the ridge and put the tent around 100-150m below the summit thinking that we could make an attempt the following day.

  Then weather turned bad with heavy and strong winds we stayed stuck on the ridge for 3 nights at 6000m unable to leave the tent.

  The last morning, almost out of gaz and food, we were reading to go down but The sun started to shine so we rushed up to the summit. We reached it after a few hours of climbing on the 28th of February (last day of Himalayan winter).

  The following day was a long day of rappelling down the south face and the spur to reach our high camp. We had to dig a 1.5m of snow to find the back pack that we left behind with some gaz and food.

  On our way down to base camp we noticed that the entire valley had been washed off by avalanches. There was no trace of our base camp, we lost everything that was there (tent, climbing gear, sleeping bags, pads, etc...). If we would have been there we would probably be under a few meter of snow at this moment. The next day we ran down to the closest village of yakers. They welcomed us like only Nepali can do and fed us with huge plates of dal baht.

  The route is named "Seto Hi’um" which means white snow in nepali as a reminder of these incredible snowfall. We graded it TD (1150m, VI, M4, WI4). It’s a really good climb with a lot of pitches of WI3 / 3+ and a few harder ones. There is still lot of amazing lines that could be open on this south face as long as the conditions are in.

  A big thanks to John, my climbing partner, for who it was the 3rd attempt on the mountain for giving me the opportunity to join him and realize the dream of many climbers: a first ascent in the Himalayas. We never met before and this month of expedition went really smoothly especially with the harsh conditions we had. Thanks to Devendra as well, the only porter that stayed we with us up to base camp and helped us so much for everything.

accidents:
  Billet got frostbite on both toes. The right toe blistered and burst out taking off the nail. He said it will be fine. He was first admitted to Swacon International and moved to Norvic International Hospital on 7 March.


expid: CHAM18301
peakid: CHAM
year: 2018
route1: N Face (100m only)
route2: W Ridge
nation: Ecuador
leaders: Topo Mena
sponsor: Ecuadorian Chamlang & Baruntse Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche Bazaar->Amphu Laptsa->Baruntse/Chamlang BC
bcdate: 2018-10-12
smtdate: 2018-10-30
termdate: 2018-11-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to unstable snow conditions and poor weather forecasts
othersmts: Attempted Baruntse (BARU-183-02)
campsites: BC(12/10,5100m),Biv1(29/10,6100m),Biv2(30/10,6400m),xxx
agency: Xtreme Climbers
routememo:
  BC   12/10  5100m
  Biv1 29/10  6100m (in a little notch on West Ridge)
  Biv2 30/10  6400m (on ledge on West Ridge)
  HPt  30/10  6400m by Mena and Perez.

  Climb abandoned on 31/10 due to weather forecast not good enough, unstable snow conditions.

  Team initially wanted to climb a route in the western part of North Face. They climbed in lower part of North Face on 19/10-20/10. They just climbed a few pitches (approximately 100m in total). Conditions in the face were good, a lot of ice, but the weather forecast was not good enough for such a committing climb. Team decided to try West Ridge instead.

  Mena and Perez attempted Chamlang via the West Ridge. They reached high point at 6400m on 30/10 at 11 am at a ledge where they pitched their second bivy. 

  Vallejo and Caceres were on permit but didn't want to attempt climb. It was windy and cloudy every day and they preferred to stay at BC.

  West Ridge had dangerous cornices in lower part, overall no good conditions. Mena and Perez thought the ridge was too unstable and on 31/10 they descended to BC. Got to BC at 7 pm.

  Team left BC on 01/11.


expid: CHOY18301
peakid: CHOY
year: 2018
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Dallas Glass
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Cho Oyu Expedition 2018
countries: Australia, Germany, S Africa
approach: Ktm->Rasuwa->Kerung->Cho Oyu BC
bcdate: 2018-09-07
smtdate: 2018-09-29
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2018-10-03
agency: Beyul Adventure
campsites:
  CBC(07/09,4800m),IC(10/09,5425m),ABC(11/09,5700m),C1(15/09,6400m),C1.5(22/09,6800m),C2(28/09,7150m),Smt(29/09)

routememo:
  CBC  07/09  4800m
  IC   10/09  5425m
  ABC  11/09  5700m
  C1   15/09  6400m
  C1.5 22/09  6800m
  C2   28/09  7150m
  Smt  29/09  by Glass, Holt, Nuzum, Terry, Phu Nuru, Sonam Tashi, Pasang Kami, 
              Mingma Dorje, Mingma Tshering, Pemba Gyalzen, Chhewang Lendu, 
              Phinjo at between 8 am and 9 am (all IMG Sherpas).

  Summit team left C2 at 2 am. Only two French climbers on the route ahead of the team. They had the summit to themselves and spent about half an hour on the top. Weather was perfect. Maybe only 10 km/h wind. Members descended to C2, where they arrived at 1 pm. All Sherpas (apart from 3) descended to ABC. Everybody back to ABC on 30/09.

  Gouws reached the base of the ice cliff (about 6700m) in 22/09. He decided that mountain was too hard for him and abandoned expedition.

  Kendall reached ABC. His heart rate was too slow (bradycardia) and he left ABC on 12/09.

  Katja Kroenke got sick (GI) on 20/09. Her husband Martin decided to leave with her and both left ABC on 23/09. They had reached C1 previously.

  Lawler got sick with Khumbu cough on 22/09. He left ABC on 24/09. He had reached C1.

  McCormick got to the base of the ice cliff and decided that the mountain was too hard. She left ABC on 23/09.

  Outlaw reached the top of the ice cliff (6750m) during 3rd rotation. On summit push she reached C1 and decided to abandon the expedition.

  Team left ABC on 01/10 (Outlaw and 3 summiters), Glass and Sherpas on 03/10.

  Fixed rope:	Yellow Band 400m

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C2 to top to C2 by members and Sherpas.


expid: CHOY18302
peakid: CHOY
year: 2018
route1: NW side
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Niklaus Stalder
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Cho Oyu Expedition 2018
countries: France, Germany, Italy
approach: Chengdu->Lhasa->Cho Oyu BC
bcdate: 2018-09-02
smtdate: 2018-09-28
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2018-10-01
campsites: CBC(02/09,4800m),ABC(05/09,5700m),C1(09/09,6400m),C2(12/09,7200m),C3(27/09,7500m),Smt(28/09)
agency: Himalaya Vision
routememo:
  CBC 02/09  4800m
  ABC 05/09  5700m
  C1  09/09  6400m
  C2  12/09  7200m
  C3  27/09  7500m
  Smt 28/09  by Berthold, Buffetti, Hentgen, Schneider Andreas, Thalhammer, Vulliez,
             Gelu Sherpa, Dawa Sherpa, Nuru Sherpa at 9 am, Stalder (without O2)
             at 7.30 am.

  Stalder, Fahrenkamp and Grohall left C3 at midnight – all three without supplemental O2. When they reached about 7600m Grohall was too cold and turned back. At the Yellow Band at about 7700m, Fahrenkamp suffered from a sore throat and turned back. Both Grohall and Fahrenkamp descended to ABC. Stalder continued on and  spent about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to ABC where they arrived at 5 pm.

  The rest of the group (all using O2) left C3 at 1 am. Straightforward climb until the Yellow Band, which was very crowded and slowed down the group. They spent about half an hour on the summit and descended to C1, where they arrived at about 6:30 pm. The Sherpas arrived at 10 pm as they were breaking down the camps. On 29/09 all back to ABC.

  Schneider Christine only went to BC; she never intended to climb.

  Team left ABC on 01/10.

  Fixed rope:	3000m with Alpenglow

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C2 to top to C2 by Buffetti and Schneider; rest of the 
      members and Sherpas from C3 to top C3. 
    Stalder, Fahrenkamp and Grohall did NOT use O2.


expid: CHOY18303
peakid: CHOY
year: 2018
route1: NW side
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Kari Kobler
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Cho Oyu Chilean Expedition 2018
countries: Chile
approach: Chengdu->Lhasa->Cho Oyu BC
bcdate: 2018-09-07
smtdate: 2018-09-26
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2018-09-27
campsites: CBC(07/09,4800m),ABC(09/09,5700m),C1(12/09,6400m),C2(25/09,7200m),Smt(26/09)
agency: Himalaya Vision
routememo:
  CBC 07/09  4800m
  ABC 09/09  5700m
  C1  12/09  6400m
  C2  25/09  7200m
  Smt 26/09  by all members, Lakpa Sherpa, Karma Sherpa, Phuri Sherpa, 
             Kusang Sherpa at 6:30 am.

  After their first rotation the members went to Tingri for three days. On the summit push, the team left C2 at 12:30 am. Perfect conditions. Straightforward climb. Team spent about 45 minutes on the summit and descended to ABC, where they arrived at 6:30 pm.

  Team left ABC on 27/09

  Fixed rope:	,000m with Alpenglow	 

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C1 to summit to C! by members
    From C2 to summit to C2 by Sherpas.


expid: CHOY18304
peakid: CHOY
year: 2018
route1: NW side
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Dean Staples
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Cho Oyu Expedition 2018
countries: Australia, Austria, Canada, Israel, Nepal, UK, USA
approach: Chengdu->Lhasa->Shigatse->New Tingri->Cho Oyu BC
bcdate: 2018-09-05
smtdate: 2018-09-27
smttime: 0415
termdate: 2018-10-01
agency: Himalayan Guides
campsites:
  BC(05/09,4800m),IC(09/09,5400m),ABC(10/09,5700m),C1(16/09,6400m),C1.5(18/09,6900m),C2(26/09,7200m),Smt(27/09)

routememo:
  CBC  05/09  4800m
  IC   09/09  5400m
  ABC  10/09  5700m
  C1   16/09  6400m
  C1.5 18/09  6900m
  C2   26/09  7200m
  Smt  27/09  by Bachmair and Nima Tshering at 4:15 am, Ehrenworth and Pemba Nuru
              at 4:30 am; Morsky, Rinji and Tenjing Gyaljen at 5:30 am; 
              Pancoe, Dawa Wangchu and Kalzang Dorje at 5:40 am; Campanaro, 
              Da Jangbu and Chewang Dorje at 5:50 am; Staples, Dawa Geljen and 
              Pasang Wangchu at 6 am.

  Summit team left C2 at 12:05 am. Perfect weather, light wind on the summit. Straightforward climb. They spent about 45 minutes on the summit. On their way down the passed the Alpenglow Rapid team coming up. Staples, Pancoe and Morsky descended to C1. All other members and Sherpas descended to ABC, where they arrived at about 7:30 pm. On 28/09 everyone down to ABC with Sherpas breaking down the camps.  

  Keene reached C2 on 26/09 on summit rotation, but never made it further as he was physically not up for it.

  Laframboise and Irani reached C1 and left the expedition on 18/09. Laframboise suffered from a constant headache; Irani was not fit enough to climb the mountain.

  Roi Negri (Israel) and Ang Dorje (Nepal/USA) never made it to BC due to visa problems.

  Team left ABC on 01/10

  Fixed rope: 800m and Nima Tshering and Rinji were part of the rope fixing team.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C2 to top to C2 by members and Sherpas 
    Keene started using O2 at C1
    Campanero started using O2 at 1.5.

  Sherpa:
    Chewang Dorje, 17.04.1981 (with AC on Everest in spring 2017)
    Rinji, 26.07.1975 (with AC on Everest in spring 2017)
    Dawa Jangbu, 22.04.1973 (with AC on Everest in spring 2017)
    Nima Tshering, 22.04.1972 (with AC on Everest in spring 2017)
    Dawa Geljen, 02.01.1980
    Kalzang Dorje, 23.07.1981
    Tenjing Gyalzen, 30.10.1996 (with AC on Everest in spring 2017)
    Pasang Wangchu Bhote, Makalu-Barun, 21/04/1977
    Dawa Wongchu, Pangboche, 22/02/1994
    Pemba Nuru (with AC on Everest in spring 2017)


expid: CHOY18305
peakid: CHOY
year: 2018
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Sean James
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Cho Oyu Expedition 2018
countries: Belgium, Finland
approach: Syabru Besi->Kerung->Tingri->Cho Oyu BC
bcdate: 2018-09-06
smtdate: 2018-09-26
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2018-09-30
agency: Makalu Adventure
campsites:
  CBC(06/09,4800m),ABC(09/09,5700m),C1(12/09,6400m),C1.5(17/09,6900m),C2(24/09,7200m),C3(25/09,7500m),Smt(26/09)

routememo:
  CBC  06/09  4800m
  ABC  09/09  5700m
  C1   12/09  6400m
  C1.5 17/09  6900m
  C2   24/09  7200m
  C3   25/09  7500m
  Smt  26/09  by Watson, Strengell, Phurba Wangchu, Phurba Ongel Sherpa at 8:30 am.

  Summit team left C3 at 1 am. Straightforward climb. Perfect conditions. Spent about half an our on the top and descended to C1, where they stayed the night. On 27/09 back to ABC.

  Lightfoot reached 6900m on 18/09 when she was on her way to C2. She was too exhausted to continue. On the summit rotation, she reached 6700m, but was too exhausted again and gave up.

  Helsen reached C1 on 12/09 on first rotation. He found it too hard and gave up. He left the expedition on 18/09.

  James reached 6900m on the second rotation with Lightfoot and again to 6700m on the summit rotation. He accompanied her down and gave up his summit bid.

  Team left ABC on 30/09.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C2 to summit to C1 by members and Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Phurba Wangchu, Waku-9, 05/12/1975
    Phurba Ongel, Sedua, Makalu-Barun, 30/07/1981


expid: CHOY18306
peakid: CHOY
year: 2018
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Adrian Ballinger
sponsor: Alpenglow Expeditions Cho Oyu Rapid Ascent Expedition 2018
countries: Ecuador, USA
approach: Flight to Lhasa->Tingri->Cho OYu BC
bcdate: 2018-09-07
smtdate: 2018-09-26
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2018-09-27
campsites: CBC(07/09,4800m),ABC(09/09,5800m),C1(17/09,6400m),C2(25/09,7000m),Smt(26-27/09)
agency: Himalaya Vision
routememo:
  Both summit teams left C2 at 1:15 am, summited at 7:30 am, stayed 1 hour, then descended to ABC. Good weather.

  Caroline Gleich and Rob Lea skied from the summit.

  Craig Steinmaus stopped at 7500m on 26/09; he was moving slow and wasn’t feeling good.

  Fixed rope: 1500m from C1 to C2.

  Oxygen: From 6700m and back.


expid: CHOY18307
peakid: CHOY
year: 2018
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Dani Fuller
sponsor: SummitClimb Cho Oyu Expedition 2018
countries: Australia, Austria, Czech Republic, Germany, Greece, Taiwan
approach: Syabru Besi->Kerung->Tingri->Cho Oyu BC
bcdate: 2018-09-06
smtdate: 2018-09-28
termdate: 2018-10-02
campsites: BC(06/09,4800m),ABC(09/09,5700m),C1(16/09,6400m),C1.5(17/09),C2(18/09),Smt(28/09)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  Sherpas:
    Dawa Jangbu Sherpa
    Dawa Sherpa
    Pemarinji Sherpa                           
    Nima Dorje Sherpa


expid: CHOY18308
peakid: CHOY
year: 2018
route1: NW side
nation: Nepal
leaders: Pasang Tendi Sherpa
sponsor: Climbing the Seven Summits & Mountain Madness Cho Oyu Expedition 2018
countries: Australia, Canada Ecuador, Kosovo, Singapore, UK
approach: Flight to Lhasa->Tingri->Cho Oyu BC
bcdate: 2018-09-03
smtdate: 2018-09-26
smttime: 0857
termdate: 2018-09-29
agency: TAGnepal Trekking
campsites:
  CBC(03/09,4800m),IC(06/09,5400m),ABC(07/09,5700m),C1(14/09,6400m),C2(18/09,7200m),C3(25/09,7500m),Smt(26/09)

routememo:
  The TAGnepal expedition was a combination of two teams from Climbing the Seven Summits and Mountain Madness. The Climbing the Seven Summits team was managed by Pasang Tendi Sherpa and the Mountain Madness team by Oswaldo Freire.

  CBC 03/09  4800m
  IC  06/09  5400m
  ABC 07/09  5700m
  C1  14/09  6400m
  C2  18/09  7200m
  C3  25/09  7500m
  Smt 26/09  by all members apart from Ross Veltmann, Pasang Tendi, Ngang Pasang,
             Pemba Rinji Sherpa, Dawa Dendi Sherpa, Lama Babu Sherpa at 8:57 am.

  All Mountain Madness members started from C3 at 1 am (Freire and Beattie did not use oxygen). TAGnepal members started from C2 at 12:36 am. Weather was perfect and good snow conditions. The teams caught up with each other just on the plateau below the summit. They all summited together and spend about one hour on the summit as the weather was perfect. All members, Pasang Tendi and Lama Babu descended to C2, where they arrived at 1:28 pm. The other Sherpas descended to ABC. On 27/09 everyone down to ABC.

  Veltmann reached 6800m on 18/09. He had been suffering from digestion problems and left the expedition early.

  Teams left ABC on 29/09.

  Fixed rope:	3000m with Alpenglow

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C2 to top to C2 by members apart from Freire and Beattie,
      who did NOT use oxygen
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Sherpas.

  Sherpas: 
    Pasang Tendi Sherpa, Khembalung, Yafu-9, Sankhuwasabha (27.10.1983)
    Ngang Pasang Sherpa, Waku-04, Solukhumbu (27.10.1986)
    Pemba Rinji Sherpa, Jubing-1, Solukhumbu (26.12.1981)
    Dawa Dendi Sherpa, Gudel-4, Solukhumbu (14.04.1977)
    Lama Babu Sherpa, Bung-9, Solukhumbu (23/09/1968


expid: CHOY18309
peakid: CHOY
year: 2018
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Shinji Tamura
sponsor: Active Mountain Cho Oyu Expedition 2018
countries: Netherlands, USA
approach: Syabru Besi->Kerung->Tingri->Cho Oyu BC
bcdate: 2018-09-11
smtdate: 2018-09-26
smttime: 0805
termdate: 2018-09-30
campsites: BC(11/09,4900m),ABC(14/09,5700m),C1(17/09,6400m),C2(25/09,7150m),Smt(26/09)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  Summit team left C2 at 1 am, summited at 8:05 am, stayed 20 minutes, then descended to C2 at 11 am. Snow conditions were good, not much wind.

  Fixed rope: C2 to summit (1200m)

  Oxygen: C2 to summit to C2

  Sherpas:
    Phurba Tashi Sherpa, Khumjung, 24/05/71
    Ngima Sona Sherpa, Phortse, 18/09/70
    Phura Namgya Sherpa, Phortse, 13/08/87


expid: CHOY18310
peakid: CHOY
year: 2018
route1: NW side
nation: Australia
leaders: Andreas Altmann
sponsor: Perth Cho Oyu Expedition 2018
approach: Flight to Lhasa->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2018-09-10
smtdate: 2018-09-26
smttime: 0811
termdate: 2018-09-29
agency: Dream Himalaya Adventures
campsites:
  BC(10/09,4800m),IC(11/09,5400m),ABC(12/09,5700m),C1(16/09,6400m),C2(24/09,7200m),C3(25/09,7500m),Smt(26/09)

routememo:
  CBC 10/09  4800m
  IC  11/09  5400m
  ABC 12/09  5700m
  C1  16/09  6400m
  C2  24/09  7200m
  C3  25/09  7500m
  Smt 26/09  by Altmann, Furi Sherpa at 8:11 am.

  Summit team left C3 at 2 am. Good conditions, clear sky. They spent about 1 hour on the summit and descended to C2, where they stayed the night. On 27/09 back to ABC.

  Team left ABC on 29/09.

  Oxygen: Taken and used C3 to top to C3 by Altmann; Furi Sherpa did not use oxygen.


expid: CHOY18311
peakid: CHOY
year: 2018
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Serge Bazin
sponsor: MontagnEvasion Cho Oyu Expedition 2018
approach: Flight to Lhasa->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2018-09-12
smtdate: 2018-09-29
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2018-10-04
campsites: CBC(12/09,4800m),IC(13/09,5400m),ABC(14/09,5700m),C1(18/09,6400m),C2(27/09,7200m),Smt(29/09)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  CBC 12/09  4800m
  IC  13/09  5400m
  ABC 14/09  5700m
  C1  18/09  6400m
  C2  27/09  7200m
  Smt 29/09  by Bazin and Da Chhiri at 7:30 am.

  Bazin, Dawa Chhiri and Gelu Sherpa and started from C2 at 11 pm on 28/09. Not many people on the route on that day. Weather was calm and sunny. They spent about one hour on the summit and descended to ABC, where they arrived at 3 pm.

  Abdelhak Medallel and Luc Silvestre Villaume reached C1 on 18/09. They spent two nights at C1 for acclimatization. On their descent to ABC, Medallel started to feel bad and had a tight feeling in his chest. Bazin gave him oxygen from below the killer slope (6000m) for his descent to ABC. He spent another two nights at ABC, however, as he was not getting better, he was evacuated on 20/09. Villaume accompanied him and abandoned the expedition as well. When they reached Kathmandu, he was admitted to CIWEC for a couple of days and flew back to France, where the doctors found that he had a blood clot.

  Team left ABC on 04/10.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from Yellow Band (7700m) to about 7900 on the ascent by Bazin 
      (no oxygen for the last 300m and descent)
    From 7700m to top to C3 by Da Chhiri.

  Sherpa:
    Da Chhiri, Khumjung, Khumbu, 21/06/1967


expid: CHOY18312
peakid: CHOY
year: 2018
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Ignacio Barrio Fernandez
sponsor: Snowy Horizon Cho Oyu Expedition 2018
countries: France, Germany, India, Macedonia
approach: Syabru Besi->Kerung->Tingri->Cho Oyu BC
bcdate: 2018-09-10
smtdate: 2018-09-28
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2018-10-02
campsites: ABC(10/09,5660m),C1(18/09,6370m),C2(27/09,7140m),Smt(28-29/09)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  Barrio left C2 on 27 Sept at 11 pm, summited at 9:00 am, stayed 15 minutes, then descended to C2 to gather his gear and continued on down to C1 arriving at 4 pm. Good weather, but a little windy up to the Yellow Band. Sunny on the summit and some clouds in the afternoon. Barrio climbed alone, but on the summit they were members of a Chinese expedition.

  Arburua, Ghosh and Velkoska started from C3 start later arround 3 or 4 am and summited at 10:30 am on 28 Sept. Barrio climbed alone from C2, and the other 3 members shared Sherpa service.

  The other member Fricke climbed alone the 29 September.


expid: CHOY18313
peakid: CHOY
year: 2018
route1: NW side
nation: Chile
leaders: Hernan David Leal
approach: Heli to Rasuwa->Kerung->Tingri->Cho Oyu BC
bcdate: 2018-09-10
smtdate: 2018-09-26
smttime: 0820
termdate: 2018-09-28
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
campsites:
  CBC(10/09,4800m),IC(12/09,5400m),ABC(13/09,5700m),C1(15/09,6400m),C2(24/09,7200m),C3(25/09,7500m),Smt(26/09)

routememo:
  CBC 10/09  4800m
  IC  12/09  5400m
  ABC 13/09  5700m
  C1  15/09  6400m
  C2  24/09  7200m
  C3  25/09  7500m
  Smt 26/09  by Leal, Lakpa Chhiring and Lakpa Chhiri (Sonam) at 8:20 am.

  Team left C3 at 1:20 am. Straightforward climb. Good conditions and weather. They spent about 30 minutes on the summit and descended to ABC, where they arrived at 9 pm.

  Team left ABC on 28/09.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Leal and Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Chhiri (Sonam), Pangboche, 17/11/1974
    Lakpa Chhiring, Pangboche, 03/05/1990

  Leal also had a permit for Dhaulagiri, but made no attempt.


expid: CHOY18314
peakid: CHOY
year: 2018
route1: NW side
nation: India
leaders: Keval Kakka
sponsor: Satori Cho Oyu Expedition 2018
bcdate: 2018-09-03
smtdate: 2018-09-26
smttime: 0805
termdate: 2018-09-29
campsites: BC(03/09,4800m),ABC(08/09,5700m),C1(6400m),C2(25/09,7200m),Smt(26/09)
agency: Satori Adventures
routememo:
  Kakka's original Sherpa became ill at ABC, so Kakka climbed with along with another group (Shingi Tamura?). 

  Kakka was accompanied by Pasang Sherpa from another team whose client left early due to illness.


expid: CHOY18316
peakid: CHOY
year: 2018
route1: NW side
nation: China
leaders: Wangchen Sonam
sponsor: Holy Mountain Adventure Cho Oyu Expedition 2018
smtdate: 2018-09-28
smttime: 0845
campsites: Smt(28/09)
agency: Holy Mountain Adventure
routememo:
  Chinese summiters

    Tsering Zhaxi
    Ge Shuiqin
    Li Huanyao
    Liu Ping
    Luo Bin
    Wu Hao
    Yang Dongzhu
    Zheng Yong
    Zhou Heping

  + 12 Tibetan assistants summited at 10 am CST (8:45 am NST) on 28 Sept 2019.


expid: DHA118301
peakid: DHA1
year: 2018
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Andreas Neuschmid
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Dhaulagiri Expedition 2018
countries: Germany, Mexico, Switzerland
approach: Pokhara->Darbang->Trekkng to Italian BC->BC
bcdate: 2018-09-03
smtdate: 2018-09-19
termdate: 2018-10-02
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to too much snow and bad weather forecasts
campsites: BC(03/09,4800m),C1(06/09,5700m),C2(27/09,6550m),xxx(19,28/09,6700m)
agency: Himalaya Vision
routememo:
  BC  03/09  4800m
  C1  06/09  5700m
  C1  13/09  5800m
  C2  27/09  6550m
  HPt 27/09  6550m by all members apart from Specht
  HPt 19/09  6700m by Neuschmid (he checked the conditions after avalanche 
                   killed Dawa Gyalzen)
  HPt 28/09  6700m by Lal Bahadur, Sonam and Tashi Chhiring attempting to fix
                   the rope from C2 to C3.

  Climb abandoned on 28/09 due to too much snow on the route for the Sherpas to fix and bad weather forecast. High winds were predicted until 08/10 at least.

  First time team ascended to C1, it took them 12 hours as due to the heavily crevassed glacier route finding was difficult. They fixed the rope from the bottom of the Eiger to the glacier. For glacier crossing they roped up to get to C1. As they arrived at C1 just before sunset, they set up camp without noticing that they had placed it in between many crevasses - that's why they moved it when they went up for their second rotation.

  Bierling arrived at BC on 13/09. She trekked in with SST group via Damphus and French Pass.

  On 18/09, the group ascended again to C1, where they stayed the night. On 19/09 they were planning to reach C2 and stay the night there; however, when they reached around 6,000m they found out that Dawa Gyalzen Sherpa of SST had been killed in an avalanche, which the rope fixing Sherpas triggered at around 6700m (on the rib just above C2). They descended to C1, where they spent another night. They tagged C2 at 6550m on 20/09. Back to BC on 20/09.

  Team left BC for a possible summit push on 26/09. It took them 11 hours to reach C1 as the route had been covered in snow. On 27/09, the team ascended to C2 where they stayed the night. The SST was also at C2 and on 28/09 four of their Sherpas and the three Kobler & Partner Sherpas started fixing the rope. However, due to the deep snow, they only reached 6700m and abandoned their attempt. The entire team descended to C1, where they stayed the night and were back at BC on 29/09.

  Specht reached lower C1 on 06/09 during first acclimatisation rotation. He had an old shoulder injury and decided that he could not continue. He left BC on 12/09.

  Team left BC on 02/10 (trekked to Marpha in 11 hours).

  Oxygen: Taken, not used.

  Sherpas:
    Lal Bahadur Tamang, Ramche, Langtang, born in 2040
    Tashi Chhiring Sherpa, Khumjung, August 1994, Makalu 2012
    Sonam Sherpa, Takshindu, 2055/01/05


expid: DHA118302
peakid: DHA1
year: 2018
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Sophie Lavaud
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Dhaulagiri Expedition 2018
countries: Germany, Japan, Nepal, Poland, Russia, Spain
approach: Via Darbang or French Pass
bcdate: 2018-09-13
smtdate: 2018-09-28
termdate: 2018-10-06
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to too much snow
campsites: BC(13/09,4800m),C1(5700m),C2(27/09,6500m),xxx(28/09,6800m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Seven Summit Treks Dhaulagiri expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Seven Summits provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Sophie Lavaud (Switzerland)

  Appr:  Trekking via Marpha to French Pass
  Camps: BC(13/09,4800m),C1(18/09,5700m),C2(27/09,6500m),xxx
  Left:  06/10/2018 to Marpha via French Pass
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 6500m due to too much snow, Sherpas could not fix beyond C2.

  Oxygen: Taken, not used
  Sherpa: Dawa Sange (Makalu-Barun)


  Sergei Baranov (Russia)

  Appr:  Trekking via Marpha to French Pass
  Camps: BC(13/09,4800m),C1(18/09,5800m),C2(27/09,6520m),xxx
  Left:  06/10/2018 to Marpha via French Pass
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 6520m due to too much snow, Sherpas could not fix beyond C2.

  Oxygen: Taken, not used


  Maria Ujue Murolas Aguerri (Spain)

  Appr:  Trekking via Marpha to French Pass
  Camps: BC(13/09,4800m),C1(18/09,5700m),C2(27/09,6500m),xxx
  Left:  06/10/2018 to Italian BC and then helicopter
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned at 6500m due to too much snow, Sherpas could not fix beyond C2.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


  Naba Raj Bastola (Nepal)

  Appr:  Trekking via Marpha to French Pass
  Camps: BC(13/09,4800m),C1(18/09,5700m),xxx(19/09,6100m)
  Left:  06/10/2018 by helicopter?
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned on 20/09 due to lack of Sherpa and motivation to go up and the 
         avalanche that killed Dawa Gyalze Sherpa on 19/09 just above C2.

  Oxygen: Taken, not used


  Herbert Hellmuth (Germany)

  Appr:  Helicopter to Italian BC on 16/09
  Camps: BC(18/09,4700m),C1(26/09,5700m),C2(27/09,6500m),xxx
  Left:  06/10/2018 to Marpha via French Pass
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 6500m due to too much snow, Sherpas could not fix beyond C2.

  Oxygen: Taken, not used


  Waldemar Kowalewski (Poland)
  Parholumeij Paczoski (Poland)

  Appr:  Helicopter to Italian BC on 16/09
  Camps: BC(18/09,4700m),C1(26/09,5700m),C2(27/09,6500m),xxx(28/09,6800m)
  Left:  30/09/2018 by helicopter
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned on 29/09 due to bad conditions on mountain and lack of Sherpa 
         motivation to fix rope above C2.

  Team climbed up to 6800m with rope-fixing Sherpas, but Sherpas decided that route was too dangerous and abandoned their work. The two Poles spent another night in C1 and decided to go home as they had no faith in the Sherpas completing the route.

  Kowalewski was on Dhaulagiri in spring 2018 and witnessed Simone Laterra being blown away in his tent by the wind. They fixed a plaque for Laterra on top of the French Pass on 18/09.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


  Tatsuo Matsumoto (Japan)

  Appr:  Trekking from Darbang
  Camps: BC(19/09,4800m),IC(26/09,5200m),C1(27/09,5700m),xxx
  Left:  01/10/2018 by helicopter
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Abandoned at 5700m due to the fact that Matsumoto is not strong enough to
         climb a mountain like Dhaulagiri.

  Oxygen:  Taken and used from BC to C1 to BC
  Sherpas: Pema Sherpa, Dawa Sherpa


  SST Sherpas (all from Makalu): 
    Dawa Sange (with Lavaud)
    Ming Nurbu Sherpa
    Lakpa Temba Sherpa
    Nima Dorchi Sherpa
    Ming Temba Sherpa
    Nima Thinduk Sherpa
    Pema Sherpa (with Matsumoto)
    Dawa Sherpa (with Matsumoto)

  Dawa Gyalgen Sherpa died on 19 Nov from avalanche while a groug of seven Sherpas were fixing rope from C2 to C3.


expid: DHA118303
peakid: DHA1
year: 2018
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Carlos Soria
sponsor: Carlos Soria 2018 Dhaulagiri Expedition
approach: Helicopter to Italian BC on 16/09
bcdate: 2018-09-17
smtdate: 2018-09-27
termdate: 2018-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to bad condition and Soria's sore knee
campsites: BC(17/09,4700m),C1(26/09,5700m),xxx(27/09,5800m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  17/09  4700m
  C1  26/09  5700m
  HPt 27/09  5800m by Ming Temba Sherpa (Mikel).

  Climb abandoned on 30/09 due to bad conditions on the mountain and Soria had a sore knee.

  Team left BC on 05/10 by helicopter.


expid: DRAN18301
peakid: DRAN
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Mikel Zabalza
sponsor: Spanish Drangnag Ri Expedition 2018
approach: Jagat->Simigaon->Beding->Na BC
bcdate: 2018-10-02
smtdate: 2018-10-18
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2018-10-25
othersmts: Summited unnamed 5960m peak east of Langdung
campsites: BC(02/10,4150m),C1(06/10,5000m),C2(16/10,5700m),C3(17/10,6400m),Smt(18/10)
achievment: 1st ascent of the SW Ridge in alpine style
agency: Annapurna Treks
routememo:
  BC  02/10  4150m (Na village)
  C1  06/10  5000m (12kms from BC, afoot of the ridge)
  C2  16/10  5700m
  C3  17/10  6400m (back to C3 after summit)
  Smt 18/19  by all members at 1:30 pm.
   
  Intended SE Ridge first, which was attempted in the past years by a French team (Patrick Wagnon/Dorian Labaeye) and last year by a "Grit and Rock" sponsored team. Found the access to the ridge in too dry and dangerous conditions this year, so changed their plans for the SW Ridge instead.

  Ascent schedule: 
  October 15: BC to C1.
  October 16: C1 to C2.
  October 17: C2 to C3. Main difficulties begun on that day.
  October 18: main difficulties ended on that day, then team exited by Bruce Normand
    route. The two ropes reached the top in the middle of a stronger wind than 
    desired: it blew with a force of between 40 and 50 km/h, with gusts of up to 70
    km/h. Bivouacked back to 6400m on that evening.
  October 19: abseiling and back crossing a lot from 6400m bivy to 5000 meters C1.
  October 20: back to BC.

  Difficulties maintained from 6100 to 6600m, which is the second part of the route. Stretches there of AI5, V grade rock and also mixed terrain. The final part of the climb coincides with Bruce Normand's route 2005.

  Name of the route: “Bizipenak”, which means "experiences" in Basque language.

  Mikel Zabalza, who added with Drangnag Ri his 37th expedition outside Europe, says that Bizipenak "is one of the most beautiful routes that I have climbed in the Himalayas."

  Team left BC on October 25.

  Other peaks: a peak of 5960m with no name on the border with Tibet, east of Langdung Peak, for acclimatization.


expid: EVER18187
peakid: EVER
year: 2018
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Sherpa Rope-Fixing
sponsor: Sherpa Rope-Fixing Everest North 2018
smtdate: 2018-05-14
smttime: 1130
campsites: BC,ABC,C1,C2,C3,Smt(14/05)
routememo:
  Rope-fixing summiters:

  From Climbalaya:
    Dawa Tenzing Sherpa
    Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa
    Pemba Tenjin Sherpa
    Pemba Tenzing Sherpa
    Tshering Wangchu Sherpa


expid: GURJ18301
peakid: GURJ
year: 2018
route1: S Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Chang-Ho
sponsor: Korean-Way Gurja Himal Expedition 2018
approach: Beni->Gurja Khani->BC
smtdate: 2018-10-06
termnote: Abandoned due to fatal serac avalanche blast at base camp
campsites: BC(06/10,3800m),xxx
accidents: Death of 4 members, 4 hired and 1 trekking member on 10-11 Oct in the night
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal
routememo:
  Sep 28  Aarival in KTM
  Oct 01  From KTM to Beni by jeep
  Oct 02  From Beni to Phole by Jeep
  Oct 06  Reached BC at 3800m from Gurja Khani (3061m)

  Oct 10  In the evening, avalanche occurred, killing all members and hired 
          sleeping at BC.

  Oct 11  Aaency was expecting one trekking member (Jeong Joon-M) to come back down to the village of Gurja Khani at noon but he didn't. Agency tried to contact BC without success, so sent one of their guide (looking after an other sick trekking member at Gurja Khani) who went until a very few kms down to the BC. Saw already 1 body and that something happened...

  Oct 12  Agency sent 16 villagers with staff plus sent an helicopter. All reached BC and discovered the whole tragedy. 9 dead bodies, clothes and tents remnants were scathered 200m to 500m below the BC, bodies still in their sleeping bags. Rescue team noticed the bodies were wet, even the money inside the clothes was wet. There was no remnants of any kind of snow avalanche around the BC, but the grass was completely flattened downwards. Agency planned in that evening during 6h how to rapatriate the bodies. Helicopters were sent in that evening to Pokhara.

  Oct 13  Evacuation big mission was completed in a short time due to delicate weather conditions. Rescue team and villagers also helping at BC site.

  Oct  16  Bodies were sent back to South Korea.

  Cause of the disaster : 

  At first many hypothesis were spread into the world press: landslide, avalanche, storm, lake flood, severe cyclonic storm "Titli"...

  https://www.facebook.com/karna.lama.54/posts/10156635349099705

  The villagers below hadn't heard nor seen anything during the October 10 to 11 night: not any sound, not any river sudden flood (=> lake flood). Saw trees breaking on their way up when reaching nearby BC. Most likely cause of the disaster seems to be an avalanche blast following the fall of a serac. Spanish source of Desnivel and Korean sources (agency told) both agree it must be a serac blast phenomenon.
   
  https://www.desnivel.com/expediciones/que-les-sucedio-realmente-a-los-9-muertos-del-gurja/

  Sadly helicopters couldn't fly over the area above the BC. One of the helicopters camera was shooting images downwards from the front of the heli to assist the rescue; it was cloudy weather on the 13th of October. There was no helicopter flight done afterwards to seek for the origin of the disaster above BC, since it was already very expensive to organize the rescue itself. So there were no image gathered from the zone from where might have originated the phenomenon.

  Accident even more surprising since in 2017, Kim Chang-Ho had made a recce of the area to decide for the safest place to establish BC. BC was established north-northeastwards in the valley straight above Gurja Khani, the large water basin catchment lying immediately southwestwards of Gurja Himal large South Face (there are two large water basin catchments collecting the waters of the south face of Gurja Himal, an eastern and a western one). Access from Gurja Khani consists in walking up via that valley talweg towards the very footstep of the SE Face (c.3345m on Googlearth), then go up a 5 hundred meters NNE via grass slopes to the BC site located on a small ledge.

  The upper part of that valley is a steep wall forming the left part of Gurja South Face. From 3345m to 4500m are grassy slopes, then from it to the summit is a steep 2600m high wall. Northeastwards to the BC is a couloir showing a narrow steep section from helicopter, and above which lies the 4500m high footstep of the proper SE Face where seracs seem to have landed. Heli survey of that upper zone may have allowed to identify the exact location of the serac(s) fall and likely found the remnants at the aforementionned 4500m high place.


expid: HIMJ18301
peakid: HIMJ
year: 2018
route1: W Ridge (up); N Ridge (down)
nation: Germany
leaders: Sebastien Fuchs
sponsor: Amis Himalaya Adventures Himjung Expedition 2018
countries: Austria
approach: Koto->Phu->Himlung BC
bcdate: 2018-10-21
smtdate: 2018-11-01
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2018-11-04
campsites: BC(21/10,4850m),C1(31/10,6180m),Smt(01/11)
achievment: 1st traverse W to N ridge
agency: Amis Himalaya Adventure
routememo:
  Fuchs by FB messenger on 11/12/2018:

  Base Camp: New Himlung BC 4850m (Kari Kobler BC)
   
  Route: 31/10/2018 - 02/11/2018

  We accessed the mountain via the Pangri and Himjung Glaciers. High camp was at 6180m north of the West Ridge. We climbed the West Ridge to the summit and descended via the North Ridge to Gyorbu Himal. Then via the West Shoulder down to Himjung Glacier. We then had to ascend for 200m to reach our high camp again at 8 pm. 

  Summit on 01/11 by all three members.

  On 02/11 we descended to BC and left BC on 04/11.

  Hard snow 55° exposed ridge climbing.


expid: HIML18301
peakid: HIML
year: 2018
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Carla Jaggi
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Himlung Himal Expedition 2018
countries: Austria
approach: Koto->Meta->Phu->BC
bcdate: 2018-09-14
smtdate: 2018-09-26
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2018-09-28
campsites: BC(14/09,4750m),C1(17/09,5450m),C2(25/09,6100m),Smt(26/09)
agency: Himalaya Vision
routememo:
  BC  14/09  at 4750m
  C1  17/09  at 5450m
  C2  25/09  at 6100m
  Smt 26/09  by Hug, Mingma Sherpa and Pasang Sherpa at 3 pm.

  Summit team and Willi and Chandra Sherpa left C2 at 2:30 am. Snow conditions were hard cover and soft ground. It took them a long time as the Sherpas were fixing the rope. At 6600m Willi and Chandra turned back as Willi was exhausted. It was about 11 am. They descended to C1.

  Summiteers spent about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at about 7:30 pm.

  Jaggi and Brand reached C2 on 25/09. They both did not join the summit push, Jaggi as she had a temperature and Brand was having a headache. Both descended to BC on 26/09.

  Schwabl reached C1 on 24/09. He was suffering from a bad stomach and did not get far out of C1 when the others ascended to C2. He stayed another night at C1 and descended to BC on 26/09.

  Team left BC on 28/09

  Oxygen: not taken, not used

  Fixed rope: ca. 1000m to summit 


expid: HIML18302
peakid: HIML
year: 2018
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Ragna Krueckels
sponsor: Amical Alpin Himlung Himal Expedition 2018
countries: Austria, Switzerland
approach: Koto->Meta->Phu->BC
bcdate: 2018-09-21
smtdate: 2018-10-04
termdate: 2018-10-08
campsites: BC(21/09,4750m),C1(27/09,5450m),C2(04/10,6050m),Smt(04-05/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  21/09  4750m
  C1  27/09  5450m
  C2  04/10  6050m
  Smt 05/10  by Offner at 12:15 pm, Michaela Senn 12:30 pm, Marcel Senn at 11:30 am,
             Fei and Krueckels at 12:30 pm, Ngima Tendi at 11 am.

  Summit team and Thomas, Nickels, Schumann, Raggl, Plattner and Karma Gyalzen left C2 at 3 am. Snow conditions were mixed (soft and hard) and it was very windy. The team spent about 5 minutes on the summit due to the high winds. They descended to C2, where they arrived between 3:30 and 4:30 pm.

  Nickels and Thomas turned back at 7000m at about 12:30 pm due to the strong wind. They descended to C2.

  Schumann reached 6300m and turned back at about 4:30 am. He did not feel up to the climb and turned back to C2.
   
  Raggl reached 6700m and turned back due to cold feet. He descended to C1.

  Plattner reached 6900m He was not feeling well and descended to C1.

  Markus reached 5300m on 03/10. He had been sick for most part of the expedition and was feeling too weak to carry on.

  Sieber reached 5700m on 28/09. She was feeling too weak and exhausted to continue.

  Team left BC on 08/10.

  Oxygen: not taken, not used

  Fixed rope: 800m

  Sherpas: 
    Ngima Tendi, Kharikhola, 22/03/1989
    Karma Gyalzen

  Lhakpa Sonam from the Spanish Thamserku team helped fixing ropes with the Amical hired team and summited the day with Ngima Tendi.


expid: HIML18303
peakid: HIML
year: 2018
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: David Pujol
sponsor: Spanish Himlung Himal Expedition 2018
countries: France
approach: Koto->Meta->Phu->BC
bcdate: 2018-09-30
smtdate: 2018-10-10
termdate: 2018-10-14
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to exhaustion and coldess
campsites: BC(30/09,4800m),C1(04/10,5400m),C2(05/10,6100m),xxx(10/10,7000m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  09/30  4800m
  C1  10/10  5400m
  C2  05/10  6100m
  HPt 10/10  7000m (below summit) by Pujol, Raucoule, Alia Perez. 

  Nice summit day on the Oct 10 despite a little windy. 

  Members's high points on Oct 10:

    Pujol – 7000m – had to care about Raucoule
    Alia Perez – 7000m – had to stay with Pujol and Raucoule
    Moreno – 6300m – back down with Lakpa, lack of strength
    Raucoule – 7000m – abandonned due to lack of strength and coldness 
      (beginning of nose frostbite)
    Marco – 6100m at C2 – stomach problems, illness
    Martinez – 6100m at C2 – looked after his girlfriend Anna

  Hired's high point on Oct 10:

    Lakpa Sonam Sherpa – 6300m, went down with Moreno
      Lakpa Sonam helped fixing ropes with Amical hired team and summited the day 
      before the Amical members (on the Oct 7 or 8)

  2 French with Climbalaya tried for the summit on the October 14th: one summited, the other not (was back with seriously frostbitten nose).  

  Team left BC on 14th of October.

  Fixed rope: Amical Alpin fixing team put some little bit at 6500m.
         
  Oxygen use : Not taken not used ; for medical use only


expid: HIML18304
peakid: HIML
year: 2018
route1: NW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Christian Bertuletti
sponsor: Alternative Nepal Himlung Himal Expedition 2018
countries: Israel, UK, USA
approach: Koto->Meta->Phu->BC
bcdate: 2018-10-03
smtdate: 2018-10-15
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2018-10-18
campsites: BC(03/10,4800m),C1(09/10,5450m),C2(10/10,6050m),Smt(15/10,02/11)
agency: Climbalaya (Alternative Nepal Trek pmt)
routememo:
  BC  03/10  at 4800m
  C1  09/10  at 5450m
  C2  10/10  at 6050m
  Smt 15/10  by Bertuletti, Dawa Tenzing Sherpa 11 am.

  Dawa Tenzing and Bertuletti left C2 at 1 am. Weather was clear but windy. Snow conditions were good. They used the fixed ropes that were already there. They stayed about 45 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where they stayed the night.

  Regazzoni reached C2 on 10/10 and 14/10. He did not feel well during the night of 10/10 (his first stay). He had breathing problems and put on the medical oxygen and the team descended to C1 the same night. On 11/10 they got back to BC. Regazzoni decided that he would not go for the summit, but accompanied Bertuletti on his summit push to C2, but did not stay the night.

  Team left BC on 18/10.

  Note: Regazzoni summited on 2 Nov with Tapchen Bhote after main team left.

  Sherpa:
    Dawa Tenzing, Thamo, 21/03/1986 

  Oxygen: 
    Medical taken and used at C2 by Regazzoni
    From just below the summit and down to 6300m by Bertuletti.

  Fixed rope: None


expid: HIML18306
peakid: HIML
year: 2018
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Freddy Gevaert
sponsor: Belgian-Dutch Himlung Himal Expedition 2018
countries: Netherlands
approach: Koto->Meta->Phu->BC
bcdate: 2018-10-19
smtdate: 2018-10-25
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2018-11-01
campsites: BC(19/10,4800m),C1(23/10,5400m),C2(24/10,6060m),Smt(25/10)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  19/10  4800m
  C1  23/10  5400m
  C2  24/10  6060m
  Smt 25/10  by Brugts, Thilen Sherpa at 7 am.

  Brugts [and Thilen] started from C2 at 10:15 pm, summited at 7 am. Very cold. Down to C2 for some rest and back to BC at 4:30 pm.

  Gevaert got to C3 (6300m) on 26/10. He was coughing a lot and was very tired and decided to abandon expedition.

  Team left BC on 01/11.

  Oxygen: Not taken not used

  Hired:
    Thilen Sherpa (S)
    Nima Sherpa (6300m)


expid: HIML18307
peakid: HIML
year: 2018
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Peter Gorke
sponsor: German Himlung Himal Expedition 2018
countries: France
approach: Koto->Meta->Phu->BC
bcdate: 2018-10-18
smtdate: 2018-10-25
termdate: 2018-11-03
campsites: BC(18/10,4900m),C1(21/10,5500m),C2(23/10,6100m),Smt(25-26/10,01/11)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  18/10  4900m
  C1  21/10  5500m
  C2  23/10  6100m
  Smt 25/10  by Mournier
  Smt 26/10  by Timme, Hirblinger
  Smt 01/11  by Sela.

  German team started from C2 on 25/10 at 10 pm. Steinhauer reached highpoint 25m below summit at 11 am. He felt frostbite at face and decided to turn back. Also little bit of frostbite at fingertips. Very windy, it was incredibly cold the whole expedition. Got back to C2 at 3-4 pm. One night in C2, next day to BC. Summiters reached summit between 9-10 am. Fix ropes all the way to summit. Quite difficult ascent because of the cold.

  Gorke and Mournier flown out from C2 by helicopter to Norvic Hospital in KTM. 
  Mournier already flown to hospital in Chamonix with serious frostbite. Both will probably lose toes, since they didn't have proper boots for this cold mountain.

  Mueller and Sela started from C2 at 8 pm on 31/10. They turned back at 6800m at 5 am because of snowstorm. They waited for two hours for storm to abate. They were almost were blown off the ridge. Sela went down to high camp. He tried again and summitted on 01/11. Mueller down to BC at 5:30 pm. 

  Most of team left BC on 29/10.

  Oxygen: Not taken not used

  Accidents: 
    Timme frostbite on toes. 
    Steinhauer frostbile in face. 
    Gorke serious frostbite on all toes. 
    Jerome Mournier flown to Chamonix already, frostbite at toes on one foot, 
      serious. 
    Hirblinger AMS and possibly HACE on summit push.

  Members:
    Peter Gorke (6800m)
    Thomas Steinhauer (7100m)
    Matthias Bruno Sela (S) 
    Marlies Timme (S)
    Ruediger Mueller (6800m)
    Otto Hirblinger (S) 
    Jerome Mournier (S) 

  Hired: 
    Chhepal Sherpa (S)
    Pasang Sherpa 
    Lama Norbu Sherpa (6800m)

  Added three Sherpa summiters from Ministry list:
    Pasang Dukpa Sherpa
    Ngima Sherpa
    Ngima Dorchi Sherpa


expid: HIML18308
peakid: HIML
year: 2018
route1: NW Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Li Yi
sponsor: Chinese Himlung Himal Expedition 2018
approach: Koto->Meta->Phu->BC
bcdate: 2018-10-17
smtdate: 2018-10-27
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2018-10-30
campsites: BC(17/10,4800m),C1(22/10,5400m),C2(24/10,6000m),C3(26/10,6200m),Smt(27/10)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  17/10  4800m
  C1  22/10  5400m
  C2  24/10  6000m
  C3  26/10  6200m
  Smt 27/10  by Li Yi, Norbu Sherpa at 6 am.

  Started from C3 at 10:30 pm, summitted at 6 am, stayed on summit for 30 minutes, down to C2 at 11 am. Freezing weather, extremely windy.

  Team left BC on 30/10.

  Oxygen: Taken and used by Li Yi from C3 to summit and down to C1. 

  Hired: 
    [Chhiji] Nurbu Sherpa (S)


expid: HIML18309
peakid: HIML
year: 2018
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Philipp Jander
sponsor: German-Polish Himlung Himal Expedition 2018
countries: Poland
approach: Koto->Meta->Phu->BC
bcdate: 2018-10-13
smtdate: 2018-10-26
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2018-10-29
campsites: BC(13/10,4900m),C1(19/10,5400m),C2(20/10,6100m),Smt(26/10)
accidents: Jander frostbite at nose, not serious; Berendt frostbite at toes on both feet (level 2).
agency: Annapurna Foothills (Wild Yak pmt)
routememo:
  BC  13/10  4900m
  C1  19/10  5400m
  C2  20/10  6100m
  Smt 26/10  by Jander, Gruber, Rinzi Sherpa at 10:30 am.

  Team started from C2 at 1:30 am. Jander, Gruber and Rinzi Sherpa reached the summit at 10:30 am, stayed 20-30 minutes on the summit, back to C2 at 3:30 pm. Good weather, beautiful views.

  Hawryluk turned around at 6920m at around 9 am. He was very cold and couldn't feel his fingers anymore. He walked back to C2 alone, got there at 3 pm. 

  Berendt turned around at 7050m at 1:30 pm. It was getting too late and she felt frostbite at her toes. She and Ngawa Sherpa got back to C2 at 5:30 pm.

  Team left BC on: 29/10.

  Oxygen: Taken for emergency, not used.

  Hired:
    Rinzi Sherpa (S)
    Ngawa Sherpa (7050m)


expid: HIML18310
peakid: HIML
year: 2018
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Guillaume Voortman
sponsor: High Himalaya Belgium Himlung Himal Expedition 2018
approach: Koto->Meta->Phu->BC
bcdate: 2018-09-08
smtdate: 2018-09-16
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2018-09-18
campsites: BC(08/09,4900m),C1(10/09,5400m),C2(14/09,5900m),C3(15/09,6400m),Smt(16/09)
agency: High Himalayan Climbing
routememo:
  Team starting from high camp at 2:30 am, summited at 9:30 am, stayed 15 minutes, then descended to C3 at 2 pm. Weather was cloudy and windy.


expid: HIML18311
peakid: HIML
year: 2018
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Paolo Colombini
sponsor: Italian Himlung Himal Expedition 2018
approach: Koto->Meta->Phu->BC
bcdate: 2018-10-06
smtdate: 2018-10-19
termdate: 2018-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to frostbite
campsites: BC(06/10,4800m),C1(11/10,5800m),C2(13/10,6000m),xxx(19/10,6300m)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks (Alternative Nepal pmt)
routememo:
  Summit day was clear, very cold, but no wind.

  Team turned around due to the beginning of frostbite.

  Hired:
    ??? Bhote


expid: HIML18313
peakid: HIML
year: 2018
route1: NW Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Yim Yu-Kong
sponsor: Imagine Nepal Himlung Himal Expedition 2018
countries: Japan
bcdate: 2018-10-11
smtdate: 2018-10-19
smttime: 1130
campsites: BC(11/10,4925m),C1(5435m),C2(5900m),C3(6210m),Smt(19/10)
agency: Imagine Nepal
routememo:
  From www.imagineclimb.com:

  2018: Mingma Gyalze, Yim Yu-Kong, Lam Chin-Tat, Ms. Wong Mei-Wah, Ting Yau-Wai, Tomiyuki Sakamoto, Li Gao, Dawa Tenzing Sherpa, Dendi Sherpa, Nga Tashi Sherpa and Phur Galjen Sherpa made successful summit of Himlung Himal in 2018/10/19.

  Note: Ministry gives Sin Kar-Pun as summiter rather than Lam Chin-Tat (as per Dawa Sherpa).


expid: HIML18316
peakid: HIML
year: 2018
route1: NW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Orianne Aymard
sponsor: French Himlung Himal Expedition 2018
bcdate: 2018-10-21
smtdate: 2018-10-28
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2018-10-31
campsites: BC(21/10,5000m),C1,C2(28/10,6200m),Smt(28/10)
agency: Himalayan Ecstasy Treks (Wild Yak pmt)
routememo:
  Aymard and Rai set out from high camp at 23:30 on 27 Oct, summited at 10 am on 28 Oct, stayed 30 minutes, then descended to C2. Good weather, clear, but cold.


expid: JANE18301
peakid: JANE
year: 2018
route1: N Face of E Smt
nation: Italy
leaders: David Bacci
sponsor: Ragni di Lecco Jannu East
approach: Badrapur->Taplejung->Ghunsa
bcdate: 2018-09-19
smtdate: 2018-09-19
termdate: 2018-10-07
termnote: Abandoned at 4550m due to objective dangers on the face
campsites: BC(19/09),xxx
agency: Expedition Himalaya
routememo:
  BC  19/09  4550m (same BC as for Jannu main)
  HPt        4550m (did not climb)

  Climb abandoned on October 5 due to Moroni decided the attempt was too risky due to objective dangers in the face and felt not enough acclimatized for attempting such a hard wall.

  Merra Peak: slept 2 nights there at 6000m for acclimatization, from 26 to 28 of September. Problem of a Jannu expedition is acclimatization, since all accessible peaks surrounding it valley are quite low.

  Solo attempt on 6th of October by Bacci to try for Anidesh Chuli from SW side. Slept afoot of it, but in the night a massiv avalanche at the center of the face blew his tent away on 5 meters. Day after both members left BC. Currently 6 Japanese attempting Anidesh Chuli from north side.

  Team left BC on October 7.

  Intended route was North Face of Jannu East; once up there, thought East Ridge to Jannu East from North Face might be a good solution for a team in alpine style.        
  Oxygen: Not taken not used.


expid: KGRI18301
peakid: KGRI
year: 2018
route1: S Face
nation: Ireland
leaders: Noel Hanna
countries: Canada, Poland
approach: Lukla->Namche->BC
bcdate: 2018-10-29
smtdate: 2018-11-07
termdate: 2018-11-08
termnote: Abandoned at 6660m due to falling rock and ice
campsites: BC(29/10,5300m),C1(04/11,5800m),xxx(07/11,6660m)
accidents: Falling rock hit a Sherpa (injured his thigh).
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  29/10  5300m (Pumori BC)	
  C1  04/11  5800m
  HPt 07/11  6660m by Hanna, Halung Dorji and Sangay Phuri.

  Temba Bhote got hit by a rock on his thigh while fixing their rope at about 6000m on 05/11. He was badly bruised and descended to BC on 06/11. On 06/11, everyone stayed at C1 for a rest.

  At midnight of 07/11, Hanna and the two Sherpas left C1. The Sherpas were fixing the ropes ahead of Hanna, but the constant rockfall just became too dangerous. They decided to turn back at about 10:10 am. They packed up C1 and descended to BC, where they arrived at 4:30 pm.

  The conditions were mainly ice and rock. The slope was about 75 degrees. A lot of traversing on the mountain. Generally doable, but rockfall danger just too high.

  Singh had breathing problems and left on 3/11. He never left BC.

  Kochanski had a cold and never left BC.

  Team left BC on 08/11 (walked to Lukla).

  Fixed rope: 3000m (way to C1 already used quite a lot as scramble up for 600m and then drop down to glacier for 300m; lots of traversing)

  Oxygen: Not taken not used

  Sherpas:
    Temba Bhote
    Halung Dorji
    Sangay Phuri

  Noel Hanna by FB messenger on 11/11/2018:

  “No summit - a lot of ice and rock fall. On Monday a large rock hit Sherpa on the leg and has to be flown out.

  Pat and Janusz did not climb. I went for summit on Tuesday night with 2 Sherpas but turned around at 6660m as to much rock and ice falling and 1 of the Sherpas not happy about continuing. There was an American and Swedish person also had a permit, but they only looked at it and turned around because of rock / ice fall. They never even attempted it.” 


expid: KGRI18302
peakid: KGRI
year: 2018
route1: SW Face
nation: USA
leaders: Luke Smithwick, Frederik Strang
sponsor: US/Swedish Kangri Shar Expedition 2018
countries: Sweden
approach: Lukla->Namche->BC
bcdate: 2018-10-30
smtdate: 2018-10-30
termdate: 2018-11-03
termnote: Abandoned at 5300m due to dangerous conditions
campsites: BC(30/10,5300m),xxx
agency: Happy Feet Mountaineers
routememo:
  BC  30/10  5300m (Pumori South BC)
  HPt 01/11  5785m by Strang, Smithwick.

  On their approach to BC, the Smithwick took a helicopter from Lukla to Gorak Shep on 30/10 and walked directly to BC. He was acclimatised due to previous trips in the Indian Himalaya. Strang had been in the Khumbu for a week to acclimatize. They met in Gorak Shep.

  When Strang and Smithwick reached Pumori BC, they had a closer look at Kangri Shar as well as Chumbu and decided that both peaks were too dangerous to climb. Too much rockfall. They left BC and attempted to climb the North Face of Nirekha peak.

  “We walked scrambled to 5758 meters, watched the SE Face of Chumbu for two days, and decided that there was too much objective hazard. We then regrouped and climbed on the North Face of Nirekha, but no summit.” (Smithwick via FB messenger)

  Climb abandoned on 01/11 due to too much objective danger.

  Accidents: Strang got upper respiratory infection.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


expid: KORL18301
peakid: KORL
year: 2018
route1: S Face-E Ridge-W Smt
nation: UK
leaders: Brian Jackson
sponsor: Unclimbed Peak Expedition 2017 - Korlang Pari Tippa North
ascent1: 1st
approach: Lamabagar->Thasing Kharka->Lumnan->Lapche Kharka->Lapche->Kidibu Khola->BC
bcdate: 2018-11-20
smtdate: 2018-11-25
smttime: 0920
termdate: 2018-11-26
campsites: BC(20/11,4836m),ABC(23/11,5300m),W Smt(25/11,5574m)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  Summit team of Brian Jackson, Daniel Walker, Catherine Husted, Gwyn Griffiths, Mingma Dorje Sherpa and Mindu Sherpa set out from ABC on 25 Nov at 5 am, summited at 9:20 am, stayed 1 hour, then descended to ABC. Route was straight up the S Face on scree and shattered rack bands, onto East Ridge to summit.


  Brian Jackson (by email) - 30 Nov 2018

  Hello Billi,

  Please see the basic ascent report below for the Himalayan Database. If you need any more information, please let me know...

  12 hrs on a bus from Kathmandu to Lamabagar in the North-South Rolwaling Valley, one of the 7 hidden valleys of Nepal and home of the Yeti.

  From Lamabagar, we trekked with 9 porters, 2 climbing Sherpas (Mingma Dorje Sherpa and Mindu Sherpa), 3 cook crew and 1 cook (Amrit Rai) from Lukla region + 5 local porters for 4 days to the last village of Lapche where the valley splits. At this point the 5 local porters left us to return to Lamabagar.

  We then headed to the Tibetan border on the northeast valley from Lapche. We trekked up the very steep valley side to the hidden plateau between the two valleys to our base camp at 4836m (N 28° 8.6478' E 86° 11.4909'), reaching it on November 20th.

  Rest, acclimatisation, jumar practice and puja ceremony at base camp.

  Moved on to ABC at 5300m in the cul-de-sac of the Nepal/Tibet border of mountains (N 28° 9.9647' E 86° 11.0147') reaching it on November 23rd.

  Korlang Pari Tippa lay before us with an East and West Summit on the 500m long ridge. We looked at the East summit as it was the highest, but could not see a route up the twin towers of broken shattered blocks as it is practically unclimbable. We therefore chose to climb the lower West Summit which still had falling rock and difficult shattered rock traverses.

  We reached the Western summit of Korlang Pari Tippa North (5574m - N 28° 10.3081' E 86° 10.9266') on Sunday 25th November at 9:20 am using 350m of fixed line. Those who summitted were: Brian Jackson, Gwyn Griffiths, Daniel Walker, Catherine Husted, Mingma Dorje Sherpa and Mindu Sherpa.

  Kind regards,
  Brian Jackson


expid: LANY18301
peakid: LANY
year: 2018
route1: S Face
nation: Denmark
leaders: Soren Ledet
sponsor: World Expeditions Yubra Himal 2018
ascent1: 1st?
countries: Australia, Netherlands
approach: Syabru Besi->Kyanjin Gompa->Yubra BC
bcdate: 2018-10-15
smtdate: 2018-10-21
smttime: 1045
termdate: 2018-10-24
othersmts: Attempted Langshisa Ri (LSIS-183-01)
campsites: BC(15/10,4200m),C1(20/10,5350m),Smt(21/10)
achievment: 1st ascent of Langtang Yubra?
agency: Highland Excursions
primid: LSIS18301
routememo:
  BC  15/10  4200m 
  HC  20/10  5350m 
  Smt 21/10  by Jankowski, Finden, Jones, Townsden, De Lathouder and 5 Sherpas.

  Yubra 6035m (unclimbed according to NMA list) on Nepa Maps as Langtang Yubra 6048m. 
  Group had some acclimatization walks near Kyanjin Gompa.

  BC was located low at 4200m behind moraine of Lirung Glacier. Beyond BC access was very difficult. High camp (HC) located on the top edge of the Kimshung Icefall at 5350m. From BC to HC not through the icefall, but via a big ramp of scree and rocks west of icefall "Horrible way". Some risk of rockfall, lots of boulders. Some short pitches of rope fixed at the ramp. Beyond HC a glacial basin "like the Western Cwm" on Everest.

  Team left HC for the summit at 3:30 am. Crampon point 30 minutes from HC, then long traverse on the left hand side of basin. Middle of basin heavily crevassed, but they walked around crevasse area.
   
  Headwall starts at 5700m. Max. 80° headwall of snow and ice. They used ice screws and snow bars for belaying.

  Team summited between 10:45 am-12:15 pm. Townsden was first of team members to summit at 11:30 am, last to summit was Lathouder at 12:15 pm. They had outstanding weather on the whole trip, also on summit day blue skies. Sherpas had fixed most of the route two days before. Fix ropes on entire headwall, about 400m.

  The three radios of the group all failed at same time and Ledet at HC was worried about group. No contact for some hours. All back to HC safely at 5:20 pm.

  Kosztelny had a knee injury previously which was why he couldn't attempt the summit. He left from Kyanjin to KTM on 15/10 by helicopter.

  Megan Ward got sick at the bottom of headwall (probably AMS). Ledet took her back to HC, where she was given oxygen for the night.

  Hawkins, Andersson and Riley decided to turn back with Ledet and Ward. They were spooked by the steep headwall.

  Everyone descended to BC on 22/10. Rest day on 23/10 and back to Kyanjin Gompa on 24/10. Left BC on 24/10 for Kyanjin Gompa, then Langshisa Ri.

  Oxygen: Taken and used for medical reasons by Megan Ward at HC.

  Fixed rope: short sections between BC and HC (not more than 80m in total), 400m at headwall.

  Hired:
    Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa, Phakding
    Nawang Sherpa, Kharikhola
    Mingma Sherpa, Kharikhola
    Sona Sherpa, Kharikhola
    Purba Sherpa, Kharikhola

  Ed. Note: It is unclear from leader's photo whether the team climbed Langtang Yubra or a ridge between Langtang Yubra (6038m) and Yubra (6264m).


expid: LCHN18301
peakid: LCHN
year: 2018
route1: NW Face
nation: Poland
leaders: Marcin Rutkowski
sponsor: Polish Lachama North Expedition 2018
approach: Nepalgunj->Simikot (by flight)->Dojam->BC
bcdate: 2018-11-02
smtdate: 2018-11-20
termdate: 2018-11-23
termnote: Abandoned due to strong, cold winds
agency: Climb High Himalaya
campsites:
  BC(02/11,4440m),ABC(07/11,5100m),Biv1(11/11,5750m),Biv2(18/11.5500m),Biv3(19/11,5900m),xxx(20/11,6000m)


expid: LDNG18301
peakid: LDNG
year: 2018
route1: SE Face-SE Ridge (up); W side (down)
nation: Spain
leaders: Jesus Ibarz
sponsor: Spanish Langdung Expedition 2018
approach: Rolwaling Valley->Beding->Na->Ripimo Glacier BC
bcdate: 2018-10-25
smtdate: 2018-10-28
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2018-10-29
campsites: BC(25/10,5100m),ABC(26/10,5400m),Smt(28/10)
agency: Annapurna Treks
routememo:
  BC  25/10  5100m on Ripimo Glacier 
  ABC 26/10  5400m
  Smt 28/10  by all 3 members at 4 pm.

  Ascent schedule:

  The trio first intended the Drangnag Ri South Face, which is still unattempted, but abandoned the idea because "we found the approach very complicated and we did not have enough time." Meanwhile Zabalza intended at first the SE Ridge before shifting attention onto the SW Ridge being less dry.

  Oct 25: From Na Village to BC

  Oct 26: From BC to ABC (moved with same tent) 

  Oct 27: "loaded the material to the wall and climbed several lengths, among them the most difficult of the track: a 6c + collapsed chimney that Ruiz Blin solved as if it were next to the ground. That night we slept again in the ABC, where the temperature dropped to -16ºC."

  Oct 28: "left the ABC at 3:00 in the morning so, at dawn, we would be climbing longs from the top with difficulties between V + and 6b. Towards 11 o'clock we reached the beginning of the SE Ridge (about 6000m), where sections of ice and rock alternated, with conditions that varied greatly depending on the orientation. After several hours of climbing, the edge seemed never to end. Sections of IV and V grade with others of very bad rock made the climbing really delicate. In addition, not being very well acclimatized, the awareness of the height was accentuated at every step. We reached the summit, exhausted, at around 4:00 pm. Our idea was to detour the ridge and go down where we had climbed but, due to how long it was, we decided to change our plan to descend rappelling towards the glacier by a channel on the west side starting 30m near the summit.

  The descent turned out to be very long, and what seemed like a quick retreat became endless rappels. The lower we got, the poorer the rock was. Thus, I do not think it is the best option for descent. Around 23:00, after about 18 rappels, we landed on the glacial crevasse where we continued sailing in search of the heat of the store. 
  On the glacier, we still had to mount several rappels to finally get back to the store at 12 o'clock at night, after 21 hours of incredible but strenuous activity."

  Route: “Bihâna” (amanacer/breaking dawn), 1500m, ED+, 6c+. First 500m on a granite wall, then 1000m on the ridge. Descent by a couloir on the west side.

  No proof for summit: "Sorry. We went down almost at night and did not take pictures."

  Team left BC on Oct 29.

  Records: 1st ascent of the SE Face-SE Ridge.

  Fixed rope: none


expid: LHOT18301
peakid: LHOT
year: 2018
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Hilaree Nelson
sponsor: Lhotse Ski Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-09-08
smtdate: 2018-09-29
smttime: 1800
termdate: 2018-10-04
campsites: BC(08/09,5300m),C1(15/09,5700m),C2(16/09,6300m),C3(25/09,7200m),Smt(29-30/09)
achievment: 1st full ski descent of Lhotse
agency: Xtreme Climbers
routememo:
  BC  08/09  5300m
  C1  15/09  5700m
  C2  16/09  6300m
  C3  25/09  7200m
  Smt 29/09  by Urken Sherpa at 6 pm
  Smt 30/09  by Nelson, Morrison, Kalisz, Simpson, Phu Tashi Sherpa, 
             Ila Nuru Sherpa at 1:45 pm.

  Rope-fixing Sherpas (Urken, Palden, Phura Sherpa) went from C2 towards the summit in one day. They fixed from 7300m to a little bit below the summit. They ran out of rope and Palden and Phura turned around about 100m below the top. Urken Sherpa was keen to summit and continued on his own. He descended to C3, where he arrived at 8 pm. Palden and Phura were back at C3 together with the members.

  30/09 summit team left C3 at 2 am. Nelson and Morrison headed out without supplemental O2 as Nelson thought it was a good idea to summit without oxygen. Both of them were carrying their skis and they were in ski-boots. When they reached 8200m (base of couloir) the snow changed. Crust was less firm and they broke in about knee-deep. The Sherpas had deposited some oxygen at the base of the couloir and Morrison and Nelson decided to put on oxygen. They spent about 45 minutes on the summit and Nelson and Morrison started their ski descent.

  They put their skis on on the summit and skied down to C2. Conditions in the couloir were varied. Breakable crust, ice. Couloir wide enough to ski. No rappel. Skiing the Lhotse Face was fine. They reached C2 at 6 pm.

  On 01/10 Morrison and Nelson continued to ski down to C1. They started out without skins, but as they were pulling heavy duffle bags they put on their skins to be able to drag the duffle bags down. They dropped their loads at 5900m and then they skinned and skied down to the top of the icefall at 5600m.

  Kalisz and Simpson also descended to C2 after the summit. Kalisz reached C2 at 8 pm, Simpson at 7:30 pm.

  Team left BC on 04/10 by helicopter.

  Fixed Rope: 
    Two icefall doctors (Dawa and Nima) fixed the icefall in 2 ½ days. 
    They only used one ladder. No rope fixed between C1 and C2. 
    Sherpas fixed from bergschrund (6600m) all the way to the summit.
    Total ca. 3000m (with icefall).

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from 8200m to top to C3 by Nelson
    From 8200m to top to C2 by Morrison
    From C3 to top to C2 by Kalisz and Simpson
    From C2 to top to C2 by Sherpas.


expid: LSIS18301
peakid: LSIS
year: 2018
route1: S Face-W Ridge
nation: Denmark
leaders: Soren Ledet
sponsor: World Expeditions Langshisa Ri 2018
countries: Australia, Netherlands
approach: Syabru Besi->Kyanjin Gompa->Langshisa Kharka
bcdate: 2018-10-25
smtdate: 2018-10-29
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2018-11-01
othersmts: Summited Langtang Yubra (Yubra Himal)(LANY-183-01)
campsites: BC(25/10,4300m),C1(27/10,5600m),Smt(29/10)
agency: Highland Excursions
routememo:
  BC  25/10  4300m at Langshisa Kharka.
  HC  27/10  5600m
  Smt 29/10  by Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa at 11:30 am.

  Climbing route: S Face to saddle, then W Ridge to summit.

  25/10 BC at 4300m at Langshisa Kharka. 27/10 From BC to high camp (5600m). Rest day on 28/10 at high camp.

  HC located right on top of a ramp. Ramp maybe 45° with lots of rockfall. On 29/10 they left for the summit from HC at 4 am. Jankowski, Finden, Townsden, Ledet, Andersson got to high point 6200m just below the saddle at 12:30 pm. Lakpa Nuru Sherpa was the only one to summit at around 11:30 am and waited for them. But members still had at least 1.5 hours to go to summit. They were tired. Distance between HC and summit was longer than anticipated and it was getting late in the day. They decided to turn back. Last members back to HC at 6:15 pm.

  Ward and Riley stayed at BC because of sickness.

  Jones got spooked by rockfall, didn't want to go any further. Lathouder moved slowly and Ledet asked her to return. Lathouder and Jones descended with Mingma Sherpa.

  Team rturned to BC on 30/10, rested on 31/10 and left BC on 01/11 to Kyanjin.

  Oxygen: Taken, not used.

  Fixed rope: 500m pretty much the whole way from base of headwall (5700m) to
    highpoint (6200m).

  Hired:
    Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa, Phakding
    Nawang Sherpa, Kharikhola
    Mingma Sherpa, Kharikhola
    Sona Sherpa, Kharikhola
    Purba Sherpa, Kharikhola


expid: LUNR18301
peakid: LUNR
year: 2018
route1: W Face-W Ridge-N Face
nation: Austria
leaders: David Lama
sponsor: Austrian Lunag Ri Expedition 2018
ascent1: 1st
countries: USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Thami->Ayre->BC
bcdate: 2018-10-10
smtdate: 2018-10-25
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2018-10-30
othersmts: Climbed Cholatse
campsites: BC(10/10,5100m),ABC(18/10,5400m),Biv1(23/10,6400m),Biv2(24/10,6800m),Smt(25/10)
achievment: 1st ascent of Lunag Ri
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  BC   10/10  5100m on moraine
  ABC  18/10  5400m on glacier
  Biv1 23/10  6400m shortly underneath ridge
  Biv2 24/10  6800m on W Ridge
  Smt  25/10  by David Lama at 10 am.

  Lama climbed from ABC to Bivouac 1 during the night. Lower part of route prone to ice and rock fall. On 23/10 he stayed in the tent the whole day, it had 80km/h wind. He had started from ABC at 1 am and reached Biv 1 at 6 am. Good climbing on mixed ground. Not much ice in lower wall, wall between 60-80°.

  On 24/10 he started from Biv 1 at 6am. Reached Bivouac 2 some time in the afternoon. He gained the West Ridge at 6500m.

  From Biv 2 he started at 6 am and reached the summit at 10 am.

  Before the summit he left the West Ridge and climbed the North Face (90°, crux). Stayed on the summit only 5 minutes. On descent he rappelled down the same route, all the way to ABC. Arrived at ABC at 11 pm.

  He carried 3 ropes, self belayed for 50m on 24/10 and for 100m on 25/10. All in all no perfect conditions, very cold on mountain (-25 to -30°C).

  Hanslmayr and Haverstock reached ABC on 18/10. They never planned to go any higher on mountain.

  On 30/10 Lama left BC for Namche Bazaar and on to climb Cholatse.

  Climbing route: 
    West Face to West Ridge, last section on North Face just before summit.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used

  Cameramen:
    Martin Hanslmayr (ABC only)
    Sean Haverstock (ABC only)


expid: MANA18301
peakid: MANA
year: 2018
route1: NE Face
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Arnold Coster
sponsor: Arnold Coster Expeditions Manaslu 2018
countries: Belgium, Brazil, Finland, Jordan, Spain, UK/Argentina
approach: Darapani->Larkya La->Samagoan->BC
bcdate: 2018-09-05
smtdate: 2018-09-26
smttime: 0515
termdate: 2018-10-01
campsites: BC(05/09,4850m),C1(09/09,5700m),C2(17/09,6400m),C3(25/09,6750m),C4(28/09,7400m),Smt(26,29/09)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  05/09  4850m
  C1  09/09  5700m
  C2  17/09  6400m
  C3  25/09  6750m
  C4  28/09  7400m (by Raistakka and van Oss only)
  Smt 26/09  by Al Shelleh and Tashi Sherpa at 6:30 am, Peeters and Ngima Dorchi at
             6:45 am, Romero and Dawa Sange at 6:45 am, Hauck da Silva and Karma at
             7 am, Bento and Dorchi at 6:45 am, Bernardo and Chhangwa Sherpa at
             5:15 am.
  Smt 29/09  by Raistakka, van Oss at 11 am (without oxygen).

  26/09 summit team left C3 on 25/09 at 8 pm. Weather and conditions were very good. No other teams on the route. After summit everyone apart from Hauck da Silva and Bento descended to BC, where they arrived at around 6 pm. Hauck da Silva and Bento descended to C3, where they arrived at 4 pm. Everyone back at BC on 27/09.

  29/09 summit team left C4 at 6 am. After the summit they descended to BC, where they arrived at 8 pm.

  Coster reached C3 on 25/09. He stayed at C3 while his group summited and descended to BC on 26/09 with the main group.

  Kausch reached 6700m on 20/09. He and Mingma Dorchi triggered a small slab avalanche which took them down for about 50m. Kausch broke his rib. They descended to BC the same day. He remained at BC for the rest of the expedition.

  Team left BC on 28/09 and to Ktmdu on 29/09 by helicopter.
  Raistakka and van Oss left BC on 01/10, trekking to Arughat.

  Fixed rope:	None

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members (apart from Raistakka and 
    van Oss) and Sherpas
    Raistakke and van Oss did NOT use oxygen.

  Sherpas:
    Karma Sherpa, 30/08/1986, Balakharka, Makalu
    Tashi Chhangba Sherpa, Makalu-5, 20/11/1996
    Mingma Dorchi Sherpa, Makalu-5, 10/09/1975 [Ngima Dorchi?]
    Chhangwa Sherpa, Makalu-Barun
    Dawa Sange, Makalu-Barun
    Dawa Dorchi, Makalu-4, 29/05/1984


expid: MANA18302
peakid: MANA
year: 2018
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Sergei Mingote Moreno
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Manaslu Expedition 2018
countries: Argentina, Brazil, France, Japan, Poland, Turkey, Uruguay
approach: Trekked via Larkya La, or helicopter to Samagaon
bcdate: 2018-09-14
smtdate: 2018-09-25
smttime: 1420
termdate: 2018-10-03
campsites: BC(09/09,4800m),C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(25,27-28/09)
achievment: Estol is the 1st person to summit Manaslu from Uruguay
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Seven Summit Treks Manaslu expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Seven Summits provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Sergi Mingote Moreno (Spain)

  Appr:  Trekked via Larkya La
  Camps: BC(14/09,4800m),C1(16/09,5700m),C2(17/09,6200m),C3(24/09,6700m),Smt(25/09)
  Left:  30/09 from BC
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Success on 25/09 at 2:20 pm

  Mingote climbed with the 3-4 Sherpa rope-fixing team, Moeses Fiamoncini and Temba Bhote (with Fiamoncini). Good weather and low wind. Their ascent was the first of the season. The snow was very deep and rope was fixed at some points. Nobody else climbed until the 27 May. Mingote's ascent was without oxygen; the others used oxygen.

  Oxygen: Not used by Mingote


  Jordi Bosch (Spain)
  Francisco Javier Goni (Spain)

  Appr:  Trekked via Larkya La
  Camps: BC(14/09,4800m),C1(16/09,5800m),xxx
  Left:  10/01 brom BC
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned due to over-crowding on the route


  Monika Witkowska (Poland)
  Joanna Kozanecha (Poland)

  Appr:  Trekked via Larkya La
  Camps: BC(14/09,4900m),C1(16/09,5700m),C2(17/09,6300m),C3(26/09,6700m),
         C4(27/09,7400m),Smt(28/09)
  Left:  01/10 from BC
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success on 28/09 by Witkowska, Kozanecha and Phurba Sherpa

  Phurba arranged high camps, but didn't lead the members to the summit. Members started at 2:30 am from C4, reached summit around 11 am. Purba summitted one hour later. Good weather, many people on the trail. They had to wait in the queue before the summit for about 30 minutes, then descended to C4, had food, and continued to C3 for the night. Reached C3 at about 6 pm.
   
  One incident occurred when the members at the same time ran out of oxygen on the summit. Phurba was carrying spare bottles, but he was way behind them. He should have been with them, but he was too slow. He was supposed to use oxygen ,but didn't. They eventually borrowed another bottle from another Sherpa and shared the bottle between them. When they met Phurba on the descent, they got their spare oxygen bottles. Busy summit, many people.

  Oxygen: Taken and used by members from C4 to summit and down to C4.

  Sherpa: Phurba


  Magdalena Poniatowska (Poland)

  Appr:  Trekked via Larkya La
  Camps: BC(14/09,4800m),C1(16/09,5700m),C2(18/09,6200m),C3(19/09,6700m),
         C4(27/09,7400m),xxx(28/09,7600m)
  Left:  29/09 from BC
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned at 7600m due to low oxygen saturation (43%), hallucinations

  Poniatowska started at 3 am for the summit from C4, reached her high point at 7600m at 4:30 am. She felt okay, but suffered from hallucinations and low oxygen saturation in her blood. She was alone and decided to abandon the climb. She descended to C4, slept there for 6 hours and continued to C1 on the same day, where she arrived at 6 pm.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


  Hugues Duplantier (France)

  Appr:  Trekked via Larkya La
  Camps: BC(12/09,4900m),C1(15/09,5700m),C2(16/09,6300m),C3(26/09,6700m),
         C4(27/09,7400m),Smt(28/09)
  Left:  01/10 from BC
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Success on 28/09 at 11 am

  Duplantier started from C4 at 00:30 am. He summitted at 11 am, then descended to C4, reached C4 at 4 pm. No oxygen, no Sherpa.


  Kerem Ayhan (Turkey)

  Appr:  Trekked via Larkya La
  Camps: BC(14/09,4900m),C1(16/09,5700m),C2(17/09,6300m),C3(19/09,6700m),
         C4(28/09,7450m),xxx
  Left:  01/10 from BC
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned at 7450m due to hypothermia and unclear weather prospects

  Kerem arrived at C4 on 28 Sep and spent the night there. He had been climbing behind large Chinese teams, who were very slow and he had no chance to pass them. As a result, he became hypothermic. He was wearing only light trousers, he didn’t have a down suit nor proper mountaineering boots.

  He reached C4, but it took time until he got warm again. He wanted to try the summit on 30 Sep, but didn't receive any weather forecast from base camp. His equipment was not suitable for bad weather; he feared bad weather and turned back.


  Cristel Estol (Uruguay)

  Appr:  Helicopter to Samagaon
  Camps: BC(09/09,4900m),C1(18/09,5700m),C2(19/09,6300m),C3(26/09,6700m),
         C4(27/09,7450m),Smt(28/09)
  Left:  30/09 from BC, then by helicopter to Ktmdu
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success by Estol and Kami Rita at 7 am

  Team left C4 at 1:30 am and reached summit at 7 am. Had to wait some time at the plateau, before they could go to main summit for photos. Weather was good, they stayed on the summit only for 1 minute. Went down to C2, which they reached at around 1 pm.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from between C3 and C4 to summit and down to between summit and C4 by Estol and Kami Rita.

  Sherpa: Kami Rita (Topke), Thami


  Moeses Fiamoncini (Brazil)

  Appr:  Helicopter to Samagaon
  Camps: BC(10/09,4850m),C1(17/09,5800m),C2(18/09,6400m),C3(24/09,6700m),Smt(25/09)
  Left:  03/10 by helicopter to Arugath, then Jeep to Ktmdu
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Success by Fiamoncini and Temba Sherpa at 4 pm

  Team started from C3 at 10 pm on 24 Sept, reached the summit at 4 pm on 25 Sept, stayed on the summit for 1 hour, then went down to C3, which they reached at 10 pm.  Perfect weather, no wind.

  Fiamoncini holds Brazilian and Italian passports. He claims to be the first Brazilian to climb Manaslu summit. Cleo Weidlich (Brazilian passport) climbed Manaslu, but was climbing as an American citizen according to Fiamoncini.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from 7600m to the summit and a little bit down.

  Sherpa: Temba Sherpa


  Matias Marin (Argentina)
  Ulises Kusnezov (Argentina)

  Appr:  Trekked via Larkya La
  Camps: BC(12/09,4850m),C1(15/09,5800m),C2(19/09,6300m),C3(25/09,6700m),
         C4(26/09,7400m),Smt(27/09)
  Left:  01/10
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Success by Marin and Kusnezov at 10 am

  Team started from C3 at 10 pm on 24 Sept, reached the summit at 4 pm on 25 Sept, stayed on the summit for 1 hour, then went down to C3, which they reached at 10 pm.  Perfect weather, no wind.

  Marin and Kusnezov started from C4 at 1:30 am, reached the summit at 10 am on 27-Sep, stayed on the summit for almost 30 minutes, then descended to C3, which they reached at 6 pm. Weather was perfect. No oxygen, no Sherpas above BC.


expid: MANA18303
peakid: MANA
year: 2018
route1: NE Face
nation: China
leaders: Zhang Wei
sponsor: Chinese 14 Peaks Manaslu Expedition 2018
approach: via Samagaon
bcdate: 2018-09-15
smtdate: 2018-09-28
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2018-09-30
campsites: BC(15/09,4950m),C1(18/09,5800m),C2(19/09,6250m),C3(26/09,6850m),C4(27/09,7450m),Smt(28/09)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Summit on 28/09	at 11 am by Fan Bo, Fan Wen, Liu Jun-Hui, Liu Yu-Tong, Wang Bin, Tang Feng, Zhu Jiang, Zhang Bin, Chang Jian, Meng Jin-Hua, Fang Xiao-Feng, Li Jian-Hong, and Sherpas: Sona, Pemba, Walung Dorchi, Mingma David, Pasang, Tenji and others.

  Summit team left C4 at midnight, summited at 11 am, stayed 10-15 minutes, then descended. One member slept in C3, one slept in C1, other 10 members were back and slept in BC.

  Chang Jan summited without oxygen and Sherpa. All other members used oxygen from C3 when summiting, and used until C3-C2 in the descent. All Sherpas used oxygen from C4.

  Zhang Wei and Peng Tao did not summit. They stayed at BC and never intended to summit.

  Mingma David summited in 9 days after arriving at base camp on 21 Sept.


expid: MANA18304
peakid: MANA
year: 2018
route1: NE Face
nation: China
leaders: Wang Ping
sponsor: Seven Summit Chinese Manaslu Expedition 2018
countries: Taiwan
approach: Beshisahar->Bhimtang->Larkya La->Samagaon->BC
bcdate: 2018-09-14
smtdate: 2018-09-29
smttime: 0540
campsites: BC(14/09,4700m),C1(16/09,5800m),C2(18/09,6400m),C3(20/09,6800m),C4(22/09,7400m),Smt(29/09)
agency: Seven Summit Treks (Sherpa 14 Peak Exp)
routememo:
  From Himalayan Times, 1 Oct 2018:

  Chang Dawa Sherpa, Expeditions director at Seven Summit Treks shared that at least 69 climbers including 38 foreign members from his company climbed Mt Manaslu (8,163 m) this season. Among the summiteers, a team of Chinese climbers led by Wang Ping (Sula) successfully scaled Mt Manaslu on Saturday. “Cai Yanjuan, Cui Zhouping, Gexi Yangchu, He Honghu, Lou Rijia, Qui Zu, Rui Junjian, Zhou Yan, Ze Yong and Zhang Yang along with Mingma Thinduk Sherpa, Tendi Sherpa, Phurba Dorchi Sherpa, Tenzen Sherpa, Phurtenze Sherpa and Tashi Sherpa reached the summit point,” he said.


expid: MANA18305
peakid: MANA
year: 2018
route1: NE Face
nation: China
leaders: Song Yu-Jiang, Dawa Steven Sherpa
sponsor: Asian Trekking Manaslu Expedition 2018
countries: Japan, Nepal
approach: Helicopter to Samagaon
bcdate: 2018-09-15
smtdate: 2018-09-29
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2018-10-01
campsites: BC(15/09,4750m),C1(20/09,5600m),C2(26/09,6400m),C3(27/09,6750m),C4(28/09,7400m),Smt(29/09)
accidents: Gong fell in descent and broke her ankle (evacuated by helicopter from BC)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  15/09  4750m
  C1  20/09  5600m
  C2  26/09  6400m
  C3  27/09  6760m
  C4  28/09  7400m
  Smt 29/09  by all Chinese members, Dawa Steven, Samir Jung Thapa, Kenji Kasahara
             and 13 Sherpas between 6 am and 8 am.

  Summit team left C4 between 11 pm and 2 am. Conditions were little gusty and clear. Snow hard and crispy. They spent an average of around 20 minutes on the summit. Dawa Steven, Jung Thapa, Tang Qun, Xin-Yong Zhou, Xie Wei and Kenji Kasahara descended to BC where they arrived between 7 pm and 9 pm. The rest of the team descended to C2.

  On the descent, Shu-Jie Gong took a wrong step and broke the outside bone of her ankle at about 7500m at about 11 am. Five Sherpas carried her down to C3, where they arrived 10 pm. On 30/09, all 13 Sherpas worked together and helped her down to BC, where they arrived at 2 am. It took them 19 hours. On 01/10 Gong took a helicopter from BC to Samagaon, where she stayed the night and on 02/10 helicopter to Kathmandu and got admitted to CIWEC.

  On the way up, Dawa Steven Sherpa and Zhang were caught in an avalanche below C3. They were dragged with it for about 10m. They were clipped into the rope and got out of the avalanche.

  Zhou and Xie skied down from the plateau (below the false summit) to about half way to C4 and walked down to C2.

  Jian-Pei Shen reached BC. He left BC after five days as he was not up for the climb.

  Song never intended to summit. He was the official expedition leader to stay at BC.

  Team left BC on 01/10.

  Fixed rope:	on descent 100m and two ladders in the icefall between C2 to C1.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C2 to top to C2 by members
    From C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas and Dawa Steven


expid: MANA18306
peakid: MANA
year: 2018
route1: NE Face
nation: Russia
leaders: Oxana Morneva
sponsor: Makalu Extreme Manaslu Expedition 2018
countries: Australia, Lithuania, Nepal, Romania, Sweden
approach: Dharapani->Larkya La->BC
bcdate: 2018-09-09
smtdate: 2018-09-27
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2018-10-01
campsites: BC(09/09,4900m),C1(14/09,5800m),C2(15/09,6400m),C3(19/09/6800m),C4(26/09,7400m),Smt(27/09)
agency: Makalu Extreme Treks
routememo:
  BC  09/09  4900m (Daniel on 9 Sep, others on 10 Sep)
  C1  14/09  5800m
  C2  15/09  6400m
  C3  19/09  6800m (some members)
  C4  26/09  7400m (different timings from 26-28 Sep)
  Smt 27/09  by Tim Bogdanov
  Smt 28/09  by Oxana Morneva, Pasang Tenji, Pasang Dorjii, Tadas Jersovas, 
             Pasang Lama, Dimitry Ivanov, Nima Nuru Sherpa, Benjamin Treble, 
             Kusang Sherpa
  Smt 29/09  by Chatur Tamang, Maria Malashenkova, Irena Alaeva, Lakpa Tsering,
             Mikhail Genshaft, Mingma Sherpa.

  Tim Bogdanov reached summit at 10:30 am. He was trying speed record, but didn't succeed. He started from C4, summitted and went down to C1.

  Party on 28 Sep reached summit between 5:30 and 7 am. There was a lot of traffic at the summit area and they reached summit at different times. They left C4 at 11 pm, summited and went to C3 which they reached at 6:30 pm.

  Party on 29 Sep reached summit at around 6:30 am. Started from C4 at 11 pm, and went back to C3.

  Daniel Toader reached 7400m on 28 Sep, but couldn't continue due to problems with his liver. He and Oxana flew from Samagaon to KTM on 2 Oct.

  Nicolai Timofeev couldn't deal with technical difficulty of the icefall at 6000m and had to turn around on 18-Sep. He wasn't experienced enough.

  Lakpa Tsering and Irena Alaeva wanted to paraglide from the summit, but the test flight failed and they abandoned the plan. Lakpa Tsering on the test flight on 16 Sep crashed into a crevasse, but was able to rescue himself out of the crevasse. He wanted to fly from BC to Samagaon. He had some pain, but nothing serious and he went on to summit later. According to Oxana, Lakpa Tsering climbed as a member.

  Irena Alaeva claims to be the first person from the autonomous republic of Abkhazia to summit Manaslu.

  Members:
    Oxana Morneva (S)
    Daniel Toader (7400m)
    Ivanov Dimitry (S)
    Lakpa Tsering Sherpa (S)
    Irena Alaeva (S)
    Mikhail Genshaft (S)
    Nicolai Timofeev (6000m)
    Tim Bogdanov (S)
    Tadas Jersovas (S)
    Benjamin Treble (S)
    Maria Malashenkova (S)

  Team left BC on 1 Oct.

  Oxygen: Oxana from 6000m to summit and back to 6000m, Irena from C2 to summit and back to C2, all other members from C3 to summit and back to C3.

  Hired:
    Kusang Sherpa (S)
    Pasang Tenji (S)
    Pasang Dorjii (S)
    Pasang Lama (S)
    Nima Nuru Sherpa (S)
    Chatur Tamang (S)
    Mingma Sherpa  (S)

accidents:
  Lakpa Tsering crashed into a crevasse on a paraglide test flight, but was able to extract himself (no serious injury)


expid: MANA18307
peakid: MANA
year: 2018
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Ryuseki Hiraoka
sponsor: Ryuseki Expeditions Manaslu 2018
approach: Helicopter to Samagaon
bcdate: 2018-09-08
smtdate: 2018-09-28
smttime: 0500
termdate: 2018-10-01
campsites: BC(08/09,4800m),C1(13/09,5750m),C2(18/10,6300m),C3(26/09,6750m),C4(27/09,7450m),Smt(28/09)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  Team started from C4 at 1 am on 28 Sep and summited at 5 am, and returned to C2 between 3 pm and 6 pm. Climb was a 6 to 10 hour round trip from C4.

  It was good condition and good weather in this season. But the biggest number summitted on 28th Sep. Maybe over hundred peaple.

  Yamamoto had to wait more than 2 hours becouse of the very heavy truffic jam at the summit ridge. Even thought he reached the col about 6:30 am, but later than 8:30 am at the summit.

  Oxygen:
    Yamamoto started using Oxygen from C1
    Ms. Kiuchi and Hosaka started using Oxygen from C2
    Ishizuka and Hiraoka started using Oxygen from C3 sleeping
    Everybody stopped using Oxygen to C2
    Sherpa team used Oxygen from/to C4 on summit day.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Gyalzen Sherpa, Thamo, 22/07/1969 
    Pemba Nuru Sherpa, Thamo, 03/02/1973 
    Nima Kanchha Sherpa, Thamo, 19/07/1975 
    Ang Pemba Sherpa, Tham1, 25/07/1978
    Pemba Tenzing Sherpa, Thami, 05/09/1991


expid: MANA18308
peakid: MANA
year: 2018
route1: NE Face
nation: Poland
leaders: Rafal Fronia
sponsor: Bogdanka Manaslu Expedition 2018
approach: Via Larkya La->Samagaon->BC
bcdate: 2018-09-14
smtdate: 2018-09-26
termdate: 2018-10-08
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to deep fresh snow
campsites: BC(14/09,4750m),C1(17/09,5750m),C2(24/09,6300m),C3(25/09,6740m),xxx(26-27/09,7100m)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  BC  14/09  4750m
  C1  17/09  5750m
  C2  24/09  6300m
  C3  25/09  6740m
  HPt 26/09  7100m by Fronia, Lange, Bielecki
  	27/09  7100m by Michalski, Stasiak, Kopec, Glowacki, Bielejec.

  The reason why the group reached the high point on different days was that they had split the groups due to the number of tents. This was their second acclimatization rotation and they were not intending to go higher. They went back to BC and started their summit push on 04/10.

  Michalski, Fronia, Kopec left BC on 04/10 to C1. It took them six hours to get there as there was fresh snow and it was hard going. On 05/10 Fronia, Kopec, Michalski descended to BC as they saw the huge amount of fresh snow on the mountain and were worried about the avalanche danger.

  On 05/10, the rest of the group left BC for C1, but only Bilecki, Lange and Bielejec continued to C2 on 06/10 as the others were also worried about the avalanche danger on the mountain. It took the group 9 hours to get to C2. When they reached it they could not find their tents as they were buried under the snow. The weather also deteriorated and they decided to return to C1 the same day, where they arrived at around 11:30 pm.

  On 07/10, everyone back to BC.

  Climb abandoned on 06/10 due to too much snow and high winds. 

  Team left BC on 08/10 to Seti Khola.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used (medical only)


expid: MANA18309
peakid: MANA
year: 2018
route1: NE Face
nation: Chile
leaders: Juan Pablo Mohr
sponsor: Chile y Espana Manaslu Expedicion 2018
countries: Italy, Spain
approach: Via Larkya La->Samagaon->BC
bcdate: 2018-09-07
smtdate: 2018-09-27
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2018-10-30
campsites: BC(07/09,4750m),C1(09/09,5800m),C2(13/09,6400m),C3(25/09,6800m),C4(26/09,7450m),Smt(27/09)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  BC  07/09  4750m
  C1  09/09  5800m
  C2  13/09  6400m
  C2  25/09  6800m
  C4  26/09  7450m
  Smt 27/09  by Mohr and Garcia at 8 am
  Smt 28/09  by Conte and Sherpa at 2 pm.

  Team left C4 at 2:15 am. Perfect conditions. Straightforward climb. They spent one hour on the summit. There was nobody else there. They descended to BC, where they arrived at 6:30 am. They dismantled C4, C2 and C1 on the way down.

  Team left BC on 30/09 and returned on 04/10 by helicopter from Samagaon.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


  Sergi Mingote - 14 Sept 2019:

  I just met Sergi Mingote’s Dhaulagiri I team and one of the members, Mattia Conte, told me that he was on Manaslu in autumn 2018 together with Pablo Mohr and Jonatan Garcia. The camps are the same as with the other two guys, however, he summited a day later as he was a bit sick on the other day. Here are the details:

  Summit 28/09 by Conte and a Sherpa (will have to find out from Parajuli) at 2 pm.


  Summit team of Conte and a Sherpa started from C4 at 2 am on 28/09, summited at 2 pm, stayed at the summit for about 40 minutes and descended to C4, where they arrived at 6 pm. On 29/09 they descended to C2 and on 30/09 back to BC.

  Fixed rope: not used at the very top (Sherpa stopped at mushroom rock and Conte went alone to true summit without fixed rope).

  Oxygen: Not used


expid: MANA18310
peakid: MANA
year: 2018
route1: NE Face
nation: Iran
leaders: Alireza Behpour
sponsor: Prestige Adventure Manaslu Expedition 2018
approach: Darapani->Larkya La->Samagaon->BC
bcdate: 2018-09-14
smtdate: 2018-09-28
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2018-10-01
campsites: BC(14/09,4750m),C1(17/09,5700m),C2(18/09,6300m),C3(26/09,6800m),C4(27/09,7440m),Smt(28/09)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  BC  14/09  4750m
  C1  17/09  5700m
  C2  18/09  6300m
  C3  26/09  6800m
  C4  27/09  7440m
  Smt 28/09  by Behpour, Lhakpa Wangchu at 9 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 2 am. Weather was good, but a bit windy on the top. They reached the plateau below the summit ridge at about 7 am, but the queue to the summit was so long that they had to wait for two hours. They were able to make one step every 10 minutes towards the summit.

  They spent about 5 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at 4 pm. On 29/09 back to BC.

  Team left BC on 01/10 and trekked to Arughat arriving on 06/10.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C4 to top to C4 by Behpour and Lhakpa Wangchu.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Wangchu, Pangboche, 23/10/1986


expid: MANA18311
peakid: MANA
year: 2018
route1: NE Face
nation: UK
leaders: Jamie Morton
sponsor: Himalayan Ski Trek Manaslu Expedition 2018
countries: Nepal, Spain
approach: Dharapani->Bhimtang->Larkya La->Samagaon->BC
bcdate: 2018-09-10
smtdate: 2018-09-28
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2018-09-29
campsites: BC(10/09,4800m),C1(17/09,5600m),C2(18/09,6400m),C3(27/09,6750m),Smt(28/09)
agency: Himalayan Ski Trek
routememo:
  Summit team left from C3 to summit around 6:45 pm on 27 Sept. Alvarez was the only from the group without bottled O2, so he ended up heading to the summit on his own as he was much slower than the rest. Summit at 10:30 am by Alvarez, Morton, Newland, Taylor, Sange Sherpa and Susan Thapa Magar. Team stayed 15 minutes, then descended to C3 around 4 pm.

  Weather conditions were good, although really cold and windy heading to C4. Once the sun was out, not cold at all, on the contrary on the way back, it really was hot.

  Hired:
    Sange Dorje Sherpa, Khumjung, Everest 10X, Cho Oyu 7X, Manaslu 1X
    Ram Kaji Tiwari, Sotang, Solukhumbu
    Shyam Krishna Adhikari, Thakre, Dhading
    Susan Thapa Magar, Basanatpur, Tanahu


expid: MANA18312
peakid: MANA
year: 2018
route1: NE Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Lakpa Sherpa
sponsor: Expedition Base Manaslu Autumn 2018
countries: Argentina, Japan, S Africa, USA
approach: Helicopter to Samagaon
bcdate: 2018-09-12
smtdate: 2018-09-28
smttime: 0915
termdate: 2018-10-01
campsites: BC(12/09,4800m),C1(15/09,5800m),C2(19/09,6350m),C3(26/09,6700m),C4(27/09,7540m),Smt(28/09)
agency: Expedition Base (Satori Adventures pmt)
routememo:
  Summit team started from C4 on 28 Sept at 1:30 am, summited at 9:15 am, stayed 3-5 minutes on true summit (but 2:45 in line at below summit), then descended to C3 around 4-5 pm (with a break to refuel at C4). Conditions were perfect, negligible winds, but a long line did exist between fore-summit and true summit. McGill arrived at fore-summit around 06:30 am.

  Oxygen: 
    Members departing C3 (6700m) on summit push, used to get to C4, then slept on
      O's, through to summit and back halfway down to C3.
    Sherpas departing C4 (7450m) on summit push, through to summit and all the way
      back down to C3.
    Coopwood, Proverbio, Randall and Springer did not use oxygen or Sherpa support.

  From Jeannette McGill:

  1. Ms Bhumira Gurung (Nepal) (summit), climbed with Ang Dorje Sherpa (summit).

  2. Rob Springer (USA) (summit), also climbed with Madrone Coopwood (USA)
     (no summit) and Matthew Randall (USA) (no summit), but no Sherpa support.

  3. Jeannette McGill (South Africa) (summit), climbed with Lakpa Sherpa (summit)
     and Pasang Ongchu Sherpa (summit).

  4. Taro Yamagata (Japan) (summit), climbed with Pema Chhiring Sherpa (summit)

  5. Leonardo Proverbio (Argentinian) (no summit), no Sherpa support.

  From Matthew Randall:

  1. Matthew Randall to 7800m (HAPE), skied down from 7800m.

  2. Madrone Coopwood to 7300m on 30/09 (HAPE). 

  3. Rob Springer (frostbite).


expid: MANA18313
peakid: MANA
year: 2018
route1: NE Face
nation: Australia
leaders: Catherine Sarah
sponsor: Grand Himalaya Treks Manaslu 2018
countries: China, India, Romania
approach: Helicopter to Samagaon
bcdate: 2018-09-03
smtdate: 2018-09-27
termdate: 2018-10-01
campsites: BC(03/09,4750m),C1(12/09,5750m),C2(18/09,6200m),C3(27/09,6800m),C4(28/09,7400m),Smt(27,29/09)
agency: Grand Himalaya Treks
routememo:
  BC  03/09  4750m
  C1  12/09  5750m
  C2  18/09  6200m
  C3  27/09  6800m
  C4  28/09  7400m
  Smt 29/09  by Sarah, Nirmal Kumar, Bharat Sharma, Gullamarusu, Thammineni, 
             Agnew, Krishnan, Namgya Sherpa, Pasang Sherpa, Pemba Chhiring, 
             Pemba Nuru, Nupu Sherpa at 6 am.
  Smt 27/09  by Shen Jian-Hui with Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa.

  Primary summit team left C4 at midnight. Many people on the route. Good weather and snow conditions. They spent about 5 minutes on the summit as it was very crowded. They descended to BC, where they arrived at about 7:30 pm.

  Mastan and Tulpan reached crampon point at around 5000m on 15/09. They were both not feeling very well and abandoned the expedition and left BC on 17/09.

  Sherpas:
    Namgya Sherpa, Lelep-8, Taplejung
    Pasang Sherpa, Lelep-8, Taplejung
    Pemba Chhiring Sherpa, Lelep-8, Taplejung
      [Ministry gives Ngima Chhiring Lama, Yamphudin-3, Taplejung, 16/09/73]
    Pemba Nuru Sherpa, Chaurikharka-2, Solukhumbu
    Nupu Sherpa, Olangchungola-6, Taplejung
    Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa, Namche (with Shen)

  Left BC on 01/10; returned to Ktmdu on 02/10 by helicopter from Samagaon.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top C3 by members apart from Krishnan and Thammineni,
      who started from C4 to top to C4; Sherpas from C4 to top to C4.


expid: MANA18314
peakid: MANA
year: 2018
route1: NE Face
nation: China
leaders: Chen Tao
sponsor: Summit Experience Chinese Manaslu Expedition 2018
countries: Taiwan
approach: Helicopter to Samagaon
bcdate: 2018-09-12
smtdate: 2018-09-28
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2018-09-30
campsites: BC(12/09,4750m),C1(16/09,5780m),C2(18/09,6400m),C3(20/09,6800m),C4(27/09,7440m),Smt(28/09)
agency: Kaitu Expedition
routememo:
  BC  12/09  4750m
  C1  16/09  5780m
  C2  18/09  6400m
  C3  20/09  6800m
  C4  27/09  7440m
  Smt 28/09  by Chen Tao, Wei Yu, Chong Wang, Wei Xiong, Li Huang-Ying, 
             Chong Wang-Hong, Zhang, Li Xia-Din, Li Qian, Nima Tenji, 
             Yukta Gurung, Nawang Tenzing, Dawa Tashi, Tshering Dawa, 
             Ang Pemba at 8 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 3 am. Weather was good but a bit windy on the top. They spent about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at 2 pm.

  They spent about 5 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at 4 pm. On 29/09 back to BC.

  Li Sheng-Hua reached C1 at 5780m on 16/09. She was not feeling well and abandoned the expedition.

  Team left BC on 30/09.
  	
  Oxygen: Taken and used from C4 to top to C4 by members and Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Nima Tenji, Rolwaling
    Yukta Gurung
    Nawang Tenzing, Phortse, Khumbu
    Dawa Tashi, Rolwaling
    Tshering Dawa, Rolwaling
    Ang Pemba, Thami, Khumbu


expid: MANA18315
peakid: MANA
year: 2018
route1: NE Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Simone Baldassarra
sponsor: Kaitu Italian Manaslu Expedition 2018
approach: Helicopter to Samagaon
bcdate: 2018-09-19
smtdate: 2018-09-30
termdate: 2018-10-10
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to too much snow and wind
campsites: BC(19/09,4750m),C1(24/09,5780m),C2(26/09,6400m),C3(30/09,6800m),xxx
agency: Kaitu Expedition
routememo:
  BC  19/09  4750m
  C1  24/09  5780m
  C2  26/09  6400m
  C3  30/09  6800m
  HPt 30/09  6800m by both members.

  The team had missed the weather window and when they arrived at C3 on 30/09, it was too much snow and too windy. They descended to BC the following day and wanted to wait for another weather window, which never arrived.

  Climb abandoned on 08/10 due to bad weather/snow.

  Team left BC on 10/10.

  Oxygen: Taken, not used.


expid: MANA18316
peakid: MANA
year: 2018
route1: NE Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Jamling Bhote
sponsor: Ever Quest Manaslu Expedition 2018
countries: Singapore, UK
approach: Dharapani->Larkya La->Samagaon
bcdate: 2018-09-09
smtdate: 2018-09-28
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2018-09-30
campsites: BC(09/09,4700m),C1(13/09,5400m),C2(18/09,6000m),C3(26/09,6800m),C4(27/09,7400m),Smt(28/09)
agency: Ever Quest Expeditions (Pioneer Adventure pmt)
routememo:
  BC  09/09  4700m
  C1  09/13  5400m
  C2  09/18  6000m
  C3  09/26  6800m
  C4  09/27  7400m
  Smt 27/09  by both members, Jamling Bhote, Dukchung Lama.

  Started at C4 at 1 am, reached summit at 10 am.  Had to wait for 2 hours at plateau to reach actual summit. It was very busy, traffic jam at summit area. Weather was beautiful, good views. Descended to C3 where they spent the night. Reached C3 at around 4 pm.

  Temba Bhote didn't summit because he had problems with his oxygen regulator. He turned back at about 7500m.

  Hired: 
    Dukchung Lama, Sankhuwasabha-3
    Temba Bhote (7500m)

  Team left BC on 30/09 and returned to Ktm on 02/10 by helicopter.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to summit and down to C3 by entire team.


expid: MANA18317
peakid: MANA
year: 2018
route1: NE Face
nation: Romania
leaders: Radu Albu
sponsor: Satori Manaslu Expedition 2018
countries: Canada, France
approach: Trekking via Larkya La
bcdate: 2018-09-10
smtdate: 2018-09-28
smttime: 0515
termdate: 2018-10-01
campsites: BC(10/09),C1(15/09),C2(16/09),C3(26/09),C4(27/09),Smt(28/09)
agency: Satori Adventures
routememo:
  BC  10/09
  C1  15/09
  C2  16/09
  C3  26/09
  C4  27/09
  Smt 28/09 by all members and Sherpas.

  Albu and Matter set out from C4 at 10 pm on 27 Sept. Albu and Pemba Sherpa reached the summit at 5:15 am, Matter and Tenji Sherpa at 5:30 am on 28 Sept. Bethell and Pasang Thendu reached the summit plateau at 6 am, but had to wait 2-3 hours to go to the summit because it was very busy.

  Albu waited for 40 minutes on the summit for the sun to rise. He was very cold and used some oxygen while waiting. Others used oxygen from C4 to summit to C4. According to Albu, ascent wasn't difficult, but the descent was. Albu ran out of water on the descent, he started to eat snow and was finally given some juice by a Sherpa. He went down all the way to BC, which took him 14 hours. Sherpas had taken all tents from high camps, so Radu had to descend the whole way. He reached BC at 7 pm.

  Bethell some frostbite at toes, went to hospital in Kathmandu, but not serious. Albu spent one night in hospital in Kathmandu, some frostbite at face, forehead and big toe, not serious.

  Matter came out trekking, Albu took heli from Samagaon on 30 Sep. Bethell by heli from Samagaon to Kathmandu on 01/10.

  Albu had planned to climb Ama Dablam in a speed record alone after Manaslu, but it didn't work out because of exhaustion; he lost 10 kg on Manaslu and never tried Ama Dablam.

  Left BC on 29-Sept (Albu), 1 Oct (Bethell), 1 Oct (Matter).

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used by Albu on the summit for approximately 30 minutes
    By other members and Sherpas from C4 to summit ans down to C4.

  Hired:
    Pemba Sherpa [Ministry gives Mingma Temba]
    Tenji Sherpa
    Pasang Thendu Sherpa [Ministry gives Pasdawa]

accidents:
  Radu slight frostbite at face and forehead and at big toe but not serious. Bethell slight frostbite at toes, not serious.


expid: MANA18318
peakid: MANA
year: 2018
route1: NE Face
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Jan Travnicek
sponsor: Czech Manaslu Expedition 2018
approach: Jagat->Larkya La->Samagaon
bcdate: 2018-09-15
smtdate: 2018-09-28
termdate: 2018-10-01
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to cold (Jirkova) and abdominal pain (Peterka)
campsites: BC(15/09),C1(18/09),C2(20/09),C3(26/09),C4(27/09),xxx(28/09,7800m)
agency: Utmost Adventure (Satori Adventures pmt)
routememo:
  BC  15/09
  C1  18/09
  C2  20/09
  C3  26/09
  C4  27/09
  HPt 28/09 at 7600m by Travnicek, Jirkova
      28/09 at 7800m by Peterka, Ongchhu Sherpa.

  Climb abandoned on 28/09 due to cold (Jirkova) and abdominal pain (Peterka).

  Jirkova and Travnicek climbed together; they started from C4 at 5:30 am for summit push. It was very windy and cold, Jirkova's hands were freezing. At 7:30 am they reached highpoint at about 7600m, they waited for 30 minutes for the sun. They hoped with the sun it would get less windy, but it didn't. They decided to abandon the climb and to descend. They rested in C4 and C3 and eventually reached C2 where they spent the night. They went without Sherpa support above BC.

  Ongchhu Sherpa and Peterka reached highpoint at 7800m on Sep 28, where they had to turn around because Peterka suffered from abdominal pain.

  Team left BC on 1 Oct.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

  Hired:
    Ongchhu Sherpa (7800m)


expid: MANA18319
peakid: MANA
year: 2018
route1: NE Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Cha Jin-Chol
sponsor: Yeungnam University College Alpine Club Manaslu Expedition 2018
approach: Dharapani->Bhimtang->Larkya La->Samdo->Samagaon
bcdate: 2018-09-11
smtdate: 2018-09-28
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2018-09-30
campsites: BC(11/09,4700m),C1(14/09,5800m),C2(18/09,6400m),C3(26/09,6900m),C4(27/09,7400m),Smt(28/09)
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal
routememo:
  BC  11/09  4700m
  C1  14/09  5800m
  C2  18/09  6400m
  C3  26/09  6900m
  C4  27/09  7400m
  Smt 28/09  by Cha, Kim and Pasang Namgel.

  Cha, Kim and Pasang Namgel started their summit bid from C4 at 1 am on 28 Sept and got to the top at 10 am. They stayed on summit for 2 hours waiting on queue for taking pictures on summit. It was a crowdy summit day. All of them descended to C4 around 3 pm and continued to C3 where they arrived at 7:30 pm. Next day, 29 September they went down to BC. The summit day weather was very good.

  Team left BC on 30 Sept. They returned Kathmandu via Sotikhola by jeep.

  Oxygen: C4 to summit members and Sherpa.

  Hired:
    Chingjung Bhote
    Pasang Namgel Sherpa


expid: MANA18320
peakid: MANA
year: 2018
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Kiyomitsu Shikoda
sponsor: Japanese Manaslu Expedition 2018
approach: By helicopter to Samagaon
bcdate: 2018-09-07
smtdate: 2018-09-28
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2018-10-01
campsites: BC(07/09),C1(13/09),C2(15/09),C3(26/09),C4(27/09),Smt(28/09)
agency: Numbur Himal Treks
routememo:
  BC  07/09
  C1  13/09
  C2  15/09
  C3  26/09
  C4  27/09
  Smt 28/09  by all members, all Sherpas.

  Team summited at 6:30 am. Left from C4 around midnight. Stayed on the summit for a few minutes, there was a lot of traffic, so many persons. They reached C3 at 1:30 pm where they spent the night.

  Team left BC on 1 Oct, returned to Ktm on 2 Oct by helicopter.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used by Shikoda from C4 to summit and down to C4
    by Sato from C3 to summit and down to C3
    by Niwa from C2 to summit and down to C1
    by Sherpas from C4 to summit to C4.

  Hired:
    Nima Nurbu Sherpa (S)
    Mingma Sherpa (S)
    Sange (S) [added by Ministry instead of Dawa Tashi]


expid: MANA18321
peakid: MANA
year: 2018
route1: NE Face
nation: China
leaders: Li Jia-Qi
sponsor: Chinese Manaslu Expedition 2018
approach: By helicopter to Samagaon
bcdate: 2018-09-06
smtdate: 2018-09-27
smttime: 0555
termdate: 2018-09-29
campsites: BC(06/09),C1(11/09),C2(13/09),C3(25/09),C4(26/09),Smt(27/09)
agency: Dolma Outdoor (Numbur Himal pmt)
routememo:
  BC  06/09
  C1  11/09
  C2  13/09
  C3  25/09
  C4  26/09
  Smt 27/09  by all members, all Sherpas.

  Party started from C4 at midnight. They reached the summit at 5:55 am. Perfect weather. Had the summit almost to themselves. Stayed on the summit for more than 30 minutes, then descended to C3, which they reached at some time in the afternoon.

  Team left BC on 29 Sept and heli from Samagaon to KTM.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used by Li Jia-Qi from little bit before C3 to summit and down to C3
    By Gu Xin from 7000m to summit and down to 7000m.

  Hired:
    Nima Gyalzen (S)
    Git Bahadur (S)


expid: MANA18322
peakid: MANA
year: 2018
route1: NE Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Pemba Norbu Sherpa
sponsor: Wild Yak Manaslu Expedition 2018
countries: Austria, Switzerland
approach: Trekking via Larkya La
bcdate: 2018-09-11
smtdate: 2018-09-27
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2018-09-29
campsites: BC(11/09,4800m),C1(13/09,5800m),C2(17/09,6400m),C3(25/09,6800m),C4(26/09,7400m), Smt(27/09)
agency: Wild Yak Expeditions (Grand Himalaya pmt)
routememo:
  Summit team left C4 at 2 am, summited at 7:30 am, stayed 30-40 minutes, then descended to C2. Good conditions, no wind, no clouds, perfect weather.


expid: MANA18323
peakid: MANA
year: 2018
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Jose Manuel Leon Munoz
sponsor: Dream Himalaya Adventures Manaslu 2018
countries: Italy
approach: Dharapani->Larkya La->Samagaon->BC
bcdate: 2018-09-04
smtdate: 2018-09-27
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2018-09-29
campsites: BC(04/09,4500m),C1(13/09,5700m),C2(17/09,6200m),C3(25/09,6500m),C4(26/09,7400m),Smt(27/09)
agency: Dream Himalaya Adventures (Grand Himalaya pmt)
routememo:
  BC  04/09  4500m
  C1  13/09  5700m
  C2  17/09  6200m
  C3  25/09  6500m (between regular C2 and C3)
  C4  26/09  7400m
  Smt 27/09  both members, both Sherpas.

  Everyone summitted at 8 am on Sep 27. They started from C4 at 1 am. After the summit they went down all the way to C2, Munoz reached C2 at 3:30 pm, Licheri half an hour later. They had the summit nearly for themselves. Weather was perfect on the summit. No wind, clear skies.

  Team left BC on 29/09.

  Oxygen: Taken and used by whole team from C4 to summit and down to just above C4.

  Hired:
    Karma Sherpa (S)
    Tendi Sherpa (S)


expid: MANA18324
peakid: MANA
year: 2018
route1: NE Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Mingma Gyalje Sherpa
sponsor: Imagine Nepal Manaslu Expedition 2018
countries: Australia, China, Greece, Ireland, UK, USA
approach: Trekking via Larkya La & by helicopter to Samagaon
bcdate: 2018-09-05
smtdate: 2018-09-27
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2018-09-30
campsites: BC(05/09,4900m),C1(09/09,5400m),C2(15/09,6000m),C3(25/09,6800m),C4(26/09,7400m),Smt(27-28)
agency: Imagine Nepal
routememo:
  C4  26/09 
  Smt 27/09 by Ferier, Darce at 12:30 pm (both no oxygen) with Suman Gurung, 
            Anup Gurung and Prakash Gurung
  Smt 28/09 by Marinos at 5 am with Tamding Sherpa, Sykaris at 6 am, Zeng with 
            Sonam Jangbu at 6 am, Liu Sen with Pemba Chhoti at 6 am, Constable and 
            Keane at 8 am with Furtemba Sherpa and Thundu Sherpa, Ms Hao Qiannan
            (no oxygen) with Mingma Gyalje at 8:30 am.

  Benjamin made summit on 27th September at around 12:30 pm and skied down. Departure from C4 at 5 am in the morning.

  Ferier and Darce left C3 on 26/09 at around 9 pm for summit push with Suman Gurung, Anup Gurung and Prakash Gurung.

  Christopher Kussmaul returned back from C4 on 26th September after he countered altitude sickness. Kussmaul and Darce were partners. They planned to summit on 26/09, but couldn't go because Kussmaul got sick reaching C4 and Darce stayed rest at C4. They tried summit from C3 on 25th night. Both were skiers on Manaslu. Highest elevation for Kussmaul was about 7300m.

  All 28th September summit team departed from C4 at 12:30 am.

  10 climbing Sherpas all together. Santa Bahadur Gurung went up to C2 at 6300m, remaining all made summit.

  Benjamin, Simon and Ms Hao made summit without oxygen. Mingma also made summit without oxygen but used oxygen from around 7600m while descending back because he took one bottle of oxygen for Ms Hao in case of emergency or if she couldn't walk faster. She made the summit successfully and oxygen was not needed for her so he used that one on the way back because he was just carrying and it was only weigh in my bag. So his climb will be included in oxygen used. Anup Gurung who made without oxygen with Ferier on 27th September. Beside this all other members and Sherpas used oxygen.

  Everyone reached back to base camp on 28th September safely. 27th summit team got back to C3 on 27th and back to base camp on 28th Sept.

  Oxygen: Taken and used (apart from Anap Gurung, Darce, Ferier and Quiannan) from C3 to top to C3.

  Hired:
    Suman Gurung from Laprak, Gorkha
    Anup Gurung from Laprak, Gorkha
    Prakash Gurung from Deurali, Tanahun
    Tamding Sherpa, Beding, Rolwaling
    Sonam Jangbu, Thami
    Pemba Chotti, Thami
    Furtemba Sherpa, Simigaon
    Thundu Sherpa, Beding, Rolwaling
    Mingma Gyalje, Beding, Rolwaling


  Further notes:

  Wesley Constable, Michael Keane, Thundu Sherpa and Phurba Temba Sherpa were Ascent Himalaya clients on the Imagine Treks permit.

  Benjamin Darce and Christopher Kussmaul were Climbalaya clients on the Imagine Treks permit.


  Notes for Darce and Kussmaul:

  Darce left C4 at 6 am and reached the summit at 1 pm. He made a ski descent from just below the summit to C4 and again most of the route from below the ice cliff of C4 to C3. He got to C4 at 3 pm and reached C3 around 8 pm, where he spent the night. He had the summit to himself as he was one day ahead of the crowds. The weather was sunny and warm, no wind.

  Kussmaul developed HAPE at about 7600m on Sep 27 and had to abandon the climb. He skied down to Samagaon, ate food and slept a lot. The expedition was over for him. 

  No oxygen, no Sherpa support above BC.

  Both members met again at BC and trekked out together via Arughat.


expid: MANA18325
peakid: MANA
year: 2018
route1: NE Face
nation: China
leaders: Zheng Chao-Hui
sponsor: Naturehike Outdoor Group Manaslu Expedition 2018
countries: Poland, Taiwan
approach: Dharapani->Bhimtang->Samagaon->BC
bcdate: 2018-09-14
smtdate: 2018-09-27
smttime: 0725
campsites: BC(14/09,4400m),C1(15/09,5700m),C2(16/09,6200m),C3(17/09,6800m),C4(27/09,7400m),Smt(28/09)
agency: Pioneer Adventure
routememo:
  Barabara Drabnik report:

  Drabnik with her Sherpa started their summit push from C4 between 1-2 am on 28. They reached summit at 9.30 am. They stayed on summit for about 20 minutes then went down to C4 where they arrived at about 1 pm and reached C3 at around 4 pm and spent night there. Next day, 29/09 descended to BC  On the summit ahead of Drabnik there were two Polish girls, three Chinese and their Sherpas.

  Oxygen: Drabnik not used; Sherpa C4-Summit-C4.


expid: MANA18327
peakid: MANA
year: 2018
route1: NE Face
nation: Hungary
leaders: Angelika Herczeg
sponsor: Snowy Horizon Manaslu Expedition 2018
countries: Austria, Ecuador, France
approach: Besisahar->Bhimtang->Larkya La->Samagaon->BC
bcdate: 2018-09-09
smtdate: 2018-09-28
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2018-10-04
campsites: BC(09/09,4850m),C1(14/09,5750m),C2(15/096300m),C3(26/096700m),C4(27/09,7400m),Smt(28/09)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  BC  09/09 (Hungarians)
  C1  14/09
  C2  15/09
  C3  26/09
  C4  27/09
  Smt 28/09  by both Hungarians, both Sherpas.

  Hungarian team left C4 at 1 am, summitted at 8 am. Had to wait at plateau before the summit for 2 hours, long queue. Good weather, good views. Then descended to C3, which they reached at approximately 3 pm. Hungarians left BC on 30 Sep.

  Oxygen:
    Used from 7600m to summit and down intermittently by members and Sherpas.

  Hired:
    Nima Sherpa (S)
    Nima Tenji Sherpa (S)


  BC  09/09  (Ecuadorian)
  C1         (never slept at C1)
  C2  16/09
  C3  17/09
  C4  26/09 
  Smt 28/09  by Rivadeneira.

  Started from C4 at 2 am, reached the summit at 8:15 am. Had to wait long in the queue, it was very busy that day. He didn't go last few meters to summit because he was fed up with waiting in the queue at some point. It took a lot of time. He started the descent at 9 am. He returned to C4 at midday. Very good weather that day. Rivadeneira left BC on 4 Oct.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used; no Sherpa support.


  Karl Debuisson and Phurba Ongdi summited on 28 Sept at 5:30 am (stayed in queue for 2.5 hours), then descend to BC at 7 pm. Left BC on 3 Oct.


expid: MANA18329
peakid: MANA
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Milan Kott
sponsor: Czech Manaslu Expedition 2018
bcdate: 2018-09-20
smtdate: 2018-09-29
campsites: BC(20/09,4842m),C1(22/09,5750m),C2(6300m),C3(6700m),C4(28/09,7350m),Smt(29/09)
agency: Mount Treks
routememo:
  From the Himalayan Times
  Czech Climber Missing on Manaslu, 30 Sept 2018
  by Rajan Pokhrel

  KATHMANDU: A foreign climber has been missing on Mt Manaslu since last evening with bad weather hampering search and rescue efforts throughout the day today, the expedition organiser said.

  According to Tej Bahadur Thapa, Managing Director at Mount Treks Nepal Pvt. Ltd, Roman Hlavko (43) from the Czech Republic went missing while descending from the summit point of the 8163-metre peak.

  The mountaineer reportedly made it to the summit point along with three fellow mountaineers in the afternoon, he said, adding that other climbers only realised that Roman was missing when they arrived at Camp III.

  “Roman, a part of the 14-member expedition, was last seen near Camp IV while descending from the top of the 8163-metre mountain,” Thapa quoted other climbers as saying.

  Once the climber was reported missing this morning, a four-member rescue team from Seven Summit Treks has been deployed on foot, the official said. The team, however, failed to make it to above Camp II as the route was hit by avalanches.


expid: MANA18401
peakid: MANA
year: 2018
route1: NE Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Simone Moro
sponsor: Italian Manaslu Winter Expedition 2018-2019
approach: By helicopter
bcdate: 2019-01-14
smtdate: 2019-01-23
termdate: 2019-01-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to high winds and deep snow (avalanche danger)
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak
campsites: BC(14/01,4800m),C1(18/01,5900m),C2(23/01,6400m),xxx
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Moro and Pemba Gelje could only reach 6400m before they abandoned the expedition due to high winds and deep snow, and avalanche danger above C2 area. 6 meters of snow fell during their attempt.

  Left BC on 29 Jan by heli to Kathmandu.

  Moro and Pemba Gelje acclimatized on Mera Peak before going to Manaslu.


expid: NUPL18301
peakid: NUPL
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Garrett Madison
sponsor: Madison Mountaineering Nup La Khang Expedition 2018
countries: Norway
approach: Lukla->BC at Gokyo 5th lake
bcdate: 2018-10-28
smtdate: 2018-11-02
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2018-11-03
campsites: BC(28/19,5000m),ABC(31/10,5848m),Smt(02/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Approach: Helicopter from KTM to Lukla, trekked to BC at Goyko 5th lake. Helicopter from BC to ABC.

  BC   28/10  5000m Gokyo 5th lake
  ABC  31/10  5848m Nup La Pass
  Smt  02/11  by all members (except LeClaire) and all hired.

  BC at Gokyo 5th lake. Climbed Gokyo Ri and Ngozumpa Tse for acclimatization. ABC right on the Nup La. Glacier between BC and ABC very broken, a lot of crevasses. “It would take weeks or months to find a way through the glacier”. By helicopter from BC to ABC.

  Team set off from ABC at 2 am. Everyone summitted between 11:30 am and 12:30 pm. Climbing was on the SW Ridge, between 45° and 60°, on a lot of hard ice, hard snow conditions. They used a lot of ice crews and snow bars. Really nice summit day, very clear, no wind, no clouds. Team stayed on the summit for about 30 minutes, then down to ABC. Reached ABC around 4 pm. Next morning everyone by helicopter to BC. Madison, Bennett, Veres back to KTM by helicopter the same day. Miller, Pattison and Settemsdel stayed in Khumbu to attempt Ama Dablam.

  Carolyn LeClaire (was on the permit, but decided not to climb during the trek, she just went to Gokyo and left the team there).

  Team left BC on 03/11.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used by Settemsdel, Miller, Bennett, Veres from 6000m to the summit 
      and down to 6000m.

  Fixed rope: From ABC to summit (total rope: 1400m / 1000m vertical metres)

  Other peaks: Miller, Pattison, Settemsdel to attempt Ama Dablam afterwards.

  Hired:
    Aang Phurba Sherpa (S)
    Pasdawa Sherpa (S)
    Kami Dorjee Sherpa (S)
    Tashi Sherpa (S)
    Lakpa Dendi Sherpa (S)

accidents:
  Bennett frostbite at two fingers (went to Civic Hospital and got treatment; tissues should heal, no lasting damage expected)


expid: PERI18401
peakid: PERI
year: 2018
route1: S Face
nation: USA
leaders: John Kelley
sponsor: American Peri Winter Expedition 2018
approach: Road to Syabru Besi->Kyanjin Gompa->Tserko Ri->Glacier Camp->Peri Kharka
bcdate: 2019-01-20
smtdate: 2019-01-20
termdate: 2019-01-27
termnote: Abandoned at BC due to waist-deep snow
campsites: BC(20/01,5100m)
agency: Magical Nepal
routememo:
  BC  20/01  5100m below east side of peak.

  Kelley ould not go beyond BC due to bad weather.

  Route: South Face – literally did not see the peak due to bad weather, cloud-covered all the time.


expid: PUMO18301
peakid: PUMO
year: 2018
route1: W Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Angel Salamanca
sponsor: Spanish Pumori Expedition 2018
countries: Portugal
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pumori BC
bcdate: 2018-10-07
smtdate: 2018-10-12
termdate: 2018-10-16
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to Suarez apparent pulmonary edema
campsites: BC(07/10,5300m),ABC(09/10,5500m),C1(11/10,6000m),xxx(12/10,6200m)
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking (Snowy Horizon pmt)
routememo:
  BC  07/10  5300m
  ABC 09/10  5500m
  C1  11/10  6000m
  HPt 12/10  6200m on W Face of Pumori Alex Suarez & Angel Salamanca.

  Climb abandoned on May 15 due to Alex Suarez apparent pulmonary edema.

  Intended a new line on the left side of the West Face which team didn't try eventually. During an attempt on common attack to 2001 Steck/Buehler route on October 12, Alex Suarez got an apparent pulmonary edema begining. “First friends and after mountains” says Salamanca. No evacuation nor rescue organized, both just walked back down to BC. 3 days later was decided that expedition was finished. 

  Team left BC Oct 16. 

  Fixed rope: None

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


expid: PUMO18302
peakid: PUMO
year: 2018
route1: SE Face
nation: Romania
leaders: Dima-Teofil Vlad
sponsor: Viva Pumori Expedition 2018
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Lobuche East->Pumori BC
bcdate: 2018-10-08
smtdate: 2018-10-18
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2018-10-20
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
campsites:
  BC(08/10,5360m),ABC(10/10,5650m),Biv1(13/10,6050m),Biv2(14/10,6250m),Biv3(15/10,6450m),Biv4(16/10,6775m),Smt(18/10),Biv5(19/10,5760m)

routememo:
  Team left Biv4 on 18 Oct, summited at 3 pm, stayed 45 minutes, then returned Biv4 just after 5 pm. Next day descended to Biv5 at 5760m.

  Climbed new route on SE Face.


expid: PUMO18303
peakid: PUMO
year: 2018
route1: SW Ridge?
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Cmarec Nenad
sponsor: Satori Slovenian Pumori Expedition 2018
countries: Italy
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Pumori BC
bcdate: 2018-10-09
smtdate: 2018-10-12
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to bad conditions and difficult route
campsites: BC(09/10,5200m),C1(10/10,5700m),C2(12/10,6200m),xxx
agency: Satori Adventures
routememo:
  4 Slovenians and 1 Italian went up to C2 (6200m), but the route was very dangerous due to falling rock. Thus, they abandoned the attempt.


expid: PUTH18301
peakid: PUTH
year: 2018
route1: NE Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Christoph Garber
sponsor: Furtenbach Adventures Putha Hiunchuli Ski Expedition 2018
countries: USA
approach: Flight to Jupal->Dunai->BC
bcdate: 2018-09-25
smtdate: 2018-10-05
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2018-10-07
campsites: BC(25/09,4920m),C1(29/09,5460m),C2A(04/10,6080m),C2B(04/10,6300m),Smt(05/10)
accidents: Frostbite by Mizelli on both hands
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  BC  25/09  4920m
  C1  29/09  5460m
  C2A 04/10  6080m by Boeck and Feichtinger
  C2B 04/10  6300m by rest of members
  Smt 05/10  by Garber, Noichl-Platzer at 10:30 am.

  All members ascended with skis (skinning).

  Summit team, Kay and Mizelli, Kunga Sherpa and Ang Kaji Sherpa left C2 at 2:15 am. Kay and Kunga Sherpa reached 6800m; however, Kay was not using his skis and found it too hard as he was breaking in. They turned back and descended to BC.

  Mizelli and Ang Kaji reached 7100m. Mizelli found out that he had frostbite and turned back with Ang Kaji. Kai skied down to C1 and descended to BC the same day. On 06/10 he was picked up by helicopter and flown to Kathmandu. He has frostbite on both hands, and will probably lose parts of two fingers.

  Garber and Noichl-Platzer continued to the summit in good weather. They spent about 10 minutes on the summit (it was very windy) and then descended on skis to C1 and then walked to BC.

  Feichtinger and Boeck reached 6180m. They had stayed at a lower C2 at 6,080m as they were both feeling sick with an upset stomach. On 05/10, they ascended for another 100m to take photos and then skied down to C1 and continued to BC walking.

  Team left BC on 07/10.

  Fixed rope: 50m below C2 at 5800m.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

  Sherpas:
    Kunga Sherpa
    Ang Kaji


expid: PUTH18302
peakid: PUTH
year: 2018
route1: NE Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Florian Trittler
sponsor: Putha Hiunchuli German Skiing Expedition 2018
approach: Flight to Jupal->Dunai->BC
bcdate: 2018-09-24
smtdate: 2018-09-30
termdate: 2018-10-05
campsites: BC(24/09,4900m),C1(26/09,5600m),C2(29/09,6100m),Smt(30/09,03/10)
agency: Ski Guides Nepal (Iceland Trekking pmt)
routememo:
  BC  24/09  4900m
  C1  26/09  5600m
  C2  29/09  6100m
  Smt 30/09  by Trittler at 12:25 pm
  Smt 03/10  by Locher and Kusang Sherpa at 10 am.

  Trittler and Locher stayed at C2 together on 29/09. They left C2 at about 5 am to go for the summit. After about 200m going towards the summit Locher lost the skins of his skis and decided to turn back. He skied down to C2 to wait for Trittler. Trittler carried on skinning up. He was completely on his own. He stayed for about 10 minutes on the summit. He skied down to C2, picked up Locher and they skied down to C1 together from where they walked to BC. They arrived at BC at around 5 pm.

  Locher, Patrizia Russ and Kusang (with snow shoes) left BC again (skinning) for a second summit push on 01/10. On 02/10 Russ turned back at around 5800m as she was low on energy due to an upset stomach she had been suffering from.

  On 03/10 Kusang and Locher left C2 at 3 am. The conditions were not as good as on 30/09 as the snow had been blown away. The ground was hard and icy. Locher used ski crampons and Kusang used snow shoes. They stayed for about 5 minutes on the summit as it was very windy. Trittler skied all the way to C1 on the way down they broke down all camps. They walked to BC, where they arrived at 4 pm.

  Spieth reached 5800m on 29/09. She did not carry on due to a cold. She was feeling too weak to carry on.

  Patrizia and Rebecca Russ reached 6100m (C2) on 29/09. This rotation was intended to be an acclimatization rotation and they did not join the spontaneous summit push of Trittler and Locher. Rebecca Russ did not join the second summit push as she was feeling too weak due to stomach problems.

  Team left BC on 05/10.

  Fixed rope: From 5950m to 6050m on a snow flank.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

  Sherpa:
    Kusang Sherpa, Pokhali, Okhaldhunga, 31/11/1974


expid: SAIP18301
peakid: SAIP
year: 2018
route1: SW Face
nation: USA
leaders: Forrest Coots
sponsor: American-Canadian Saipal Ski Expedition 2018
countries: Canada
approach: See route notes
bcdate: 2018-10-05
smtdate: 2018-10-21
termdate: 2018-10-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to altitude, frostbite and exhaustion
campsites: BC(05/10,3995m),ABC(10/10,4725m),C1(20/10,5400m),xxx(21/10,6400m)
accidents: 1 porter (Puna) fell of the trail on 30/10 at 2200m during return march
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  Approach: Flight to Dhanghadi, 12 hour drive to Chainpur, 2 hour drive to Talkot, trekking from Talkot.

  BC  05/10  3955m
  ABC 10/10  4725m
  C1  20/10  5400m in bergschrund
  HPt 21/10  6400m by all members.

  Climb abandoned on 21/10 due to altitude, frostbite and exhaustion.

  Alpine-style ascent, no oxygen, no Sherpas. Planned ski descent from summit. 

  SW Face steep face, a lot of snow (40cm), good climbing 45°-60°. Team climbed unroped. Highpoint 6400m on 21/10. They started from C1 at 5:30 am. Reached highpoint at approximately 10:30 am. Sayers had slight frostbite at toes (nerve damage, but no lasting damage expected). Everyone felt tired and struggled with altitude. Everyone back to BC at 6:30 pm. A lot of spindrift with small avalanches between highpoint and C1.

  They hired porters from the region. "The west is quite new to tourism, no porter structure like at other areas. Porters carry a much lighter load."

  Porter fatal accident happened on 30/10 between 3-4 pm. A porter called Puna (from Talkot) on the way out at 2200m fell down the trail for about 600 feet. It was a wide trail, but with a steep edge. He was alone at the time of accident. According to police statement he tripped on a rock and lost his footing. Rest of porter were upset especially his brother. He was most angry and the others were following. They blamed members for the death and threatened to kill them. They picked up rocks and threatened to stone them to death, but didn't throw. In total 15-20 porters. Members and porters recovered the body with ropes.

  Team left BC on 28/10.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

  Fixed rope: None


expid: SAIP18302
peakid: SAIP
year: 2018
route1: SW Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Jorge Egocheaga
sponsor: Mission Saipal Autumn 2018
countries: Belgium, Italy, Nepal, USA
approach: Flight to Nepalgunj-Simikot, by Jeep to Talkot, trekked to BC
bcdate: 2018-10-25
termdate: 2018-11-06
termnote: Abandoned at 4700m on unclimbed peak due to bad weather
othersmts: Attempted only unclimbed peak nearby Saipal
campsites: BC(25/10),ABC(29/10,4700m),xxx
agency: Himalayan Wanderer
routememo:
  Itinerary:

  18 Oct - team flew from Kathmandu to Dhangadi
  19-20 Oct - team drove to Talkot
  21-25 Oct - team trekked to Saipal base camp
  25 Oct - team arrived at base camp
  29 Oct - team made first carry to high camp for unclimbed peak
  30 Oct-01 Nov - Sherpas fix route above high camp for unclimbed peak
  03 Nov - team moves up to high camp for unclimbed peak
  04 Nov - team returns to base camp due to bad weather
  06 Nov - team departs base camp


expid: SITA18301
peakid: SITA
year: 2018
route1: E Ridge from S
nation: Spain
leaders: Jordi Tosas
sponsor: Spanish Sita Chuchura Expedition 2018
approach: Beni->Darbanb->Dhaulagiri BC
bcdate: 2018-10-26
smtdate: 2018-10-28
termdate: 2018-10-30
campsites: BC(26/10,4700m),Smt(28/10)
routememo:
  BC  26/10  4700m at Dhaulagiri I basecamp
  Smt 28/10  by both members.

  "We had nonstop action during 11 days from Darbang to Darbang, like snails, carrying evetything. Just one porter helped us till Italian camp”. Reached Dhaulagiri I basecamp in 5 days, reaching it on October 26.

  On October 28 had a 18-hour climbing day, starting at midnight. "We climb up by the red line (70°/M5-6) and descended by ski the yellow line (55° in some parts)."
    
  Most expeditions used the same easiest route so far on Sita Chuchura: E Ridge from south side. The 1st ascent team (SITA-703-01) and 2nd ascent team (SITA-923-01) likely used the same lower part of the route, in the upper part the latter going towards harder conditions choose to avoiding the face by the right (50/60° slopes).

  Tosas route on the lower part likely lies further to the left (or more "southernly") to these successful teams, then in the final part joins either 1st or 2nd ascent team's same route. Down it likely uses the same route.

  Team left BC on October 30.

  Route: E Ridge from south, with a new variant/route in the lower part.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used

  Records: possible first ascent of a new variant in the lower part of the route; first ski descent of the peak via the E Ridge from south.

  Fixed rope: None


expid: SPH218301
peakid: SPH2
year: 2018
route1: E Face (up); N Ridge (down)
nation: Lithuania
leaders: Aivaras Sajus
sponsor: Lithuanian-American Sharphu II Expedition 2018
countries: USA
approach: Kanchenjunga BC->Khambachen
bcdate: 2018-10-16
smtdate: 2018-10-26
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2018-11-01
campsites: BC(16/10,4550m),Biv1(22/10,5600m),Biv2(24/10,5880m),Biv3(25/10,6260m),Smt(26/10),Biv4(26/10)
agency: Magical Nepal
routememo:
  Camp Coordinates:
    C1:  N 27.757616, E 87.925472
    C2:  N 27.757663, E 87.922951
    C3:  N 27.757104, E 87.919571
    Smt: N 27.758384, E 87.919228, 6328m 
    C4:  N 27.765087, E 87.924086

  Team set out from C3 at 9 am and summited at 10:30 am, then descended separate line (N Ridge) to Camp 4, reached at 5:30 pm.

  We climbed the East Face and descended the North Ridge. We had considered descending the same line of descent, but had scouted the alternative snowy North Ridge. We realized it would be time consuming and dangerous to rappel and downclimb the line of ascent because of complicated terrain, multiple required rappels, and some observed rockfall.

  ED2, AI5 M6. From Camp 1 at base of East Face, followed 2 gully systems through 4 cliffbands with ice and mixed climbing to pass each cliff band. Switched gullies to the north after 2 cliffbands via a snowfield. 10 pitched-out pitches, about 14 simulclimbed pitches of steep snow to 90 degrees. 8cm of snow the first night. Temperatures down to -25C at night at Camp 3, with steady 25 knot winds on summit ridge. Several solid ice pitches, some loose rock on mixed pitches. One rockfall event down lower line of ascent after passing. 5 full-length rappels and steep downclimbing to descend.


expid: TAKP18301
peakid: TAKP
year: 2018
route1: W Ridge
route2: W Ridge (up), S Ridge (down)
nation: UK
leaders: Julian Freeman-Attwood
sponsor: British Takphu Expedition 2018
ascent1: 1st
ascent2: 2nd
countries: Germany
approach: Simikot->Nyalu La->Takchhe->Gumna Yak
bcdate: 2018-10-06
smtdate: 2018-10-11
termdate: 2018-10-20
othersmts: See Route Notes
campsites: BC(06/10,4982m),Smt(11,18/10)
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
primid: TILK18301
routememo:
  Summit acheivements:
  1. 11 Oct 1st ascent Takphu Himal 6395m by W Ridge (Douglas-Nettekoven-Normand)
  2. 11 Oct 1st ascent Pk 6055m (north of BC) by S Ridge (Colton-Attwood)
  3. 15 Oct 1st ascent Til Kang 6369m vy W Spur (Douglas-Normand)
  4. 16 Oct 1st ascent Peak P1 6613m by N Face (Normand solo)
  5. 17 Oct 1st Ascent Peak P3 6422m by S Ridge (Normand solo)
  6. 18 Oct 1st ascent Peak P2 6521m by S Face (up), E Ridge (down) and
            2nd ascent of Takphu Himal by W Ridge (up), S Ridge (down) (Normand solo)


expid: TILK18301
peakid: TILK
year: 2018
route1: W Spur
nation: UK
leaders: Julian Freeman-Attwood
sponsor: British Takphu Expedition 2018
ascent1: 1st
countries: Germany
approach: Simikot->Nyalu La->Takchhe->Gumna Yak
bcdate: 2018-10-06
smtdate: 2018-10-15
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2018-10-20
othersmts: See Route Notes
campsites: BC(06/10,4982m),ABC(14/10,5700m),Smt(15/10)
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
routememo:
  Douglas and Normand departed ABC at 5 am on 15 Oct, summited at 13:00, spent 30 minutes on top, then returned to ABC. Weather very cold and less settled than usually expected by post-monsoon season.

  Nettekoven climbed Takphu Himal and had slight frostnip so declined on Til Kang.
   
  Freeman-Attwood had a chest infection as did Colton, so they climbed the smaller 6055m peak to the north.

  Summit acheivements:
  1. 11 Oct 1st ascent Takphu Himal 6395m by W Ridge (Douglas-Nettekoven-Normand)
  2. 11 Oct 1st ascent Pk 6055m (north of BC) by S Ridge (Colton-Attwood)
  3. 15 Oct 1st ascent Til Kang 6369m by W Spur (Douglas-Normand)
  4. 16 Oct 1st ascent Peak P1 6613m by N Face (Normand solo)
  5. 17 Oct 1st Ascent Peak P3 6422m by S Ridge (Normand solo)
  6. 18 Oct 1st ascent Peak P2 6521m by S Face (Normand solo)


expid: TSAR18301
peakid: TSAR
year: 2018
route1: via Tashi Kang to SW Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Sachio Nakamizo
sponsor: Kyushu University Tsartse Expedition 2018
approach: Dhampus Pass->Hidden Valley
bcdate: 2018-09-18
smtdate: 2018-09-25
smttime: 1045
termdate: 2018-09-28
campsites: BC(18/09,5400m),C1(24/09,6000m),Smt(25/09)
agency: Khangri Trek
routememo:
  Team summited on 25 Sept at 10:45 am, then descended to BC arriving at 6:45 pm.

  The route to climb the summit of Tsartse is the south-west side of the mountain through the summit of Tashi Kang I (6386m). Starting from Camp 1 near the South Ridge of Tashi Kang they traversed on the snow face of the east side of the mountain, and reached the col between Tashi Kang North and Tashi Kang I. Then they walked on the plateau to the base of Tsartse, and climbed the SW Face reaching the summit of Tsartse.

  Non-Summiters:
    Sachio Nakamizo: 5400m stopped by physical strength
    Masahiro Nakagawara: 5400m stopped by physical strength
    Reiji Sato: 5400m stopped by physical strength
    Tetsuji Santa: ca.4200m (Yak Kharka) stopped by physical strength


expid: AMAD19101
peakid: AMAD
year: 2019
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Joseba Ellorieta
sponsor: Spanish Ama Dablam Expedition 2019
approach: Trek via Gokyo->Cho La->Kalapattar->Island Peak->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2019-04-23
smtdate: 2019-05-09
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2019-05-10
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(23/04,4600m),C1(25/04,5700m),C2(26/04,6100m),C3(08/05,6300m),Smt(09/05)
accidents: Tasio very slight frostbite at one finger on right hand (no lasting damage expected).
achievment: Tasio Ellorieta the youngest Spanish national to summit Ama Dablam
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  23/04  4600m
  C1  25/04  5700m
  C2  26/04  6100m
  C3  08/05  6300m
  Smt 09/05  by Tasio Ellorieta.

  The first two attempts failed because of difficult conditions or because they were too late in the day.

  Summit on third summit attempt. Both started from C3 at 3:30 am. Joseba turned around at 6400m at around 6 am because he was cold at his hands and conditions were very difficult for him. He went down to C1 where he waited for Tasio.

  Tasio continued alone, it was difficult and dangerous at times. He didn’t use fixed rope on the way up, only on the descent. Tasio summited at 10 am. Stayed on the summit for 30 minutes, weather was good, just a bit windy. Snow conditions not so good. Both members back to BC at 10 pm. Left BC on 10/05.

  No Sherpa support above BC.


expid: AMAD19103
peakid: AMAD
year: 2019
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Daniel Doerig
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Ama Dablam Expedition 2019
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2019-04-21
smtdate: 2019-04-28
termdate: 2019-04-29
termnote: Abandoned at 5950m due to bad ice conditions above (blue ice)
campsites: BC(21/04,4700m),C1(24/04,5650m),C2(28/04,5950m),xxx
agency: Himalaya Vision
routememo:
  BC  4700m  21/04
  C1  5650m  24/04
  C2  5950m  28/04 by Rempfler, Doerig, Sonam Sherpa

  Sonam reached around 6700m beforehand as he was fixing the ropes.

  On first rotation, the team wanted to continue to C2; however, they had had a bad night and descended to BC. Second rotation they reached C2, but decided to abandon expedition due to exhaustion and technical difficulties.

  Climb abandoned due to: difficulties to acclimatize, technical difficulties (Sherpas mentioned the blue ice near the summit and did not want to fix there). 

  Team left BC on 29/04.

  Fixed rope:
    Up to 200m below the summit by Sonam Lama and Sherpas from other expedition

  Oxygen:

    Taken during the night by Rempfler at C2 due to breathing difficulties and 
       Cheynes-Stoke breathing.


expid: AMAD19104
peakid: AMAD
year: 2019
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Kari Kobler
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Ama Dablam Expedition 2019
countries: Chile
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Lobuche East->BC
bcdate: 2019-04-03
smtdate: 2019-04-05
termdate: 2019-04-07
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to dangerous ice conditions
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(03/04,4700m),C1(05/04,5800m),xxx
agency: Himalaya Vision
routememo:
  BC  03/04  4700m
  C1	05/04  5800m by Kobler, Cueto Plaza, Rosende Diez, Kusang, Sonam and 
             one more Sherpa.

  Climb abandoned on 05/04 due to dangerous conditions. Too much black ice. Too difficult for clients.

  Sherpas reached C3.

  They left BC on 07/04 went to Island Peak BC and summited Island Peak on 08/04. On 09/04 they left Island Peak BC by helicopter.

  Fixed rope: Up to C3 by Sherpas

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


expid: AMAD19105
peakid: AMAD
year: 2019
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Kazakhstan
leaders: Maxut Zhumayev
sponsor: Kazakhstan-Russian Ama Dablam Expedition 2019
countries: Russia
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2019-04-24
smtdate: 2019-05-03
smttime: 1145
termdate: 2019-05-05
campsites: BC(24/04,4600m),C1(26/04,5700m),C2(01/05,6100m),C3(02/05,6300m),Smt(03/05)
agency: Namaste Treks (Himalaya Vision pmt)
routememo:
  BC  24/04  4600m
  C1  26/04  5700m
  C2  01/05  6100m
  C3  02/05  6300m
  Smt 03/05  by Zhumayev, Polyakov and two Sherpas.

  Zhumayev and Polyakov started from C3 (located on small platform just underneath normal C3) at 2:30 am. Sherpas had started from C2 at midnight. They reached Zhumayev and Polyakov at 2 am and everyone started together at 2:30 am. Sherpas, Zhumayev and Polyakov at summit at 11:45 am. Mazur had turned around at 6300m because ropes were icy and he wasn’t too experienced. Summit team on summit for maybe 1 hour. Polyakov and Zhumayev back to C3 at 4:40 pm. Sherpas and Alexey back to C2.

  Team left BC on 05/05 by heli to Ktmdu.

  Fixed rope: Last 200m to summit

  Oxygen: Taken to C1 for emergency, not used

  Sherpas: 
    Ongchhu Sherpa (S)
    Phurba Sherpa (S)


expid: AMAD19106
peakid: AMAD
year: 2019
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Jan Travnicek
sponsor: Utmost Adventure Ama Dablam Expedition 2019
countries: Australia, Chile, Germany, Nepal, Romania, UK
approach: Lukla->Namche->Gokyo->Cho La Pass->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2019-04-16
smtdate: 2019-04-26
termdate: 2019-04-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to difficult snow conditions
othersmts: Lobuche East
campsites: BC(16/044600m),C1(19/04,5700m),C2(25/04,6100m),xxx(26/04,6700m)
agency: Utmost Adventure
routememo:
  BC  16/04  4600m  all except Paunescu, Thakuri
      20/04         Paunescu, Thakuri
  C1  19/04  5700m  Goldsmith, Travnicek, Jirkova, Novotny, Simanek, Juracka
      21/04         Mell, Quirk, Pantel
      23/04         Thakuri, Paunescu
  C2  25/04  6100m  Pantel, Mell, Travnicek, Jirkova, Juracka, Novotny
  HPt 26/04  6700m  by Novotny, Astani, Lhakpa Sherpa (junior)

  Climb abandoned on 26/04 due to ropes not fixed to summit and difficult conditions.

  Summit push started on 26/04 at 2 am. Novotny with Astani and Lhakpa (junior) started at 2 am to fix the remaining ropes to the summit. Rest started at 4 am. Pantel turned around shortly after C2 at around 4:30 am because he felt physically unwell and low on energy; after some rest at C2 he went all the way down to BC (noon).

  Novotny, Astani and Lhakpa (junior) turned around at approx. 6700m, because of difficult snow conditions. Novotny asked Sherpas to belay him for fixing the ropes, but Sherpas were reluctant. Novotny down to BC the same day at 7 pm.

  Mell and Lhakpa (senior) turned around at 6400m because ropes not fixed.

  Travnicek and Juracka turned around at 10 am at C3 (6300m). All back to C2 at 3 pm.

  Jirkova stayed at C2 because she had pain in her back.

  Simanek didn’t have climbing permit and only went to C1.

  Quirk to C1 on 21/04. She didn’t go higher because she had problems with the altitude and didn’t feel well.
   
  Goldsmith to C1 on 19/04. He later suffered from severe diarrhea and was flown to hospital in KTM for treatment on 25/04.
   
  Paunescu reached C2 on 23/04. He felt too weak in the morning to go any further and abandoned his summit attempt there.
   
  Thakuri reached 5900m on 24/04. He wasn’t acclimatized enough and turned around between C1 and C2. He joined Goldsmith in helicopter to KTM on 25/04.

  Team left BC on 28/04 (Pantel, Quirk, Novotny) and 29/04 (Mell, Travnicek, Jirkova, Simanek, Juracka).

  Oxygen: Not taken not used.

  Other peaks: Lobuche East (Goldsmith, Juracka, Travnicek, Jirkova, Novotny, Simanek)

  Members:
    Jan Travnicek (6300m)
    Miroslava Jirkova (6100m)
    Marek Novotny (6700m)
    Petr Juracka (6300m)
    Jan Simanek (5700m)
    Samuel Goldsmith (5700m)
    Tobias Pantel (6100m)
    Stephanie Quirk (5700m)
    Georgette Mell (6400m)
    Mihai Paunescu (6100m)
    Ganesh (Subin) Thakuri (5900m)

  Hired: 
    Nar Bahadur Astani Magar (6700m), 25/07/1989
    Lhakpa Sherpa (Sr.) (6400m), 24/01/1964
    Lhakpa Sherpa (Jr.) (6700m), 28/03/1989
    Ongchhu Sherpa (6100m), 24/11/1981 (AMAD-181-04)


expid: AMAD19107
peakid: AMAD
year: 2019
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Javier Bonatti, Josep Ribas
sponsor: Spanish Ama Dablam Expedition 2019
countries: Andorra
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2019-05-05
smtdate: 2019-05-13
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2019-05-15
campsites: BC(05/05,4600m),C1(06/05,5700m),C2(11/05,6100m),Smt(13/05)
agency: Utmost Adventure
routememo:
  BC  05/05  4600m
  C1  06/05  5700m
  C2  11/05  6100m
  Smt 13/05  by Javier Bonatti Bonet

  Bonatti started from C2 at 2:50 am, summited at 11 am, back to C2 at 2 pm. Difficult conditions at times, fixed rope sometimes buried in snow and ice. Stayed on the summit for a short time, maybe 5 minutes.

  Ribas Duro had problems with his knee and had some stomach issues. He abandoned climb at C2 on 12/05. Ribas down to BC on 12/05.

  Both members returned to Ktmdu on 15/05 by heli from BC.

  Hired:
    Ngima Sherpa (C2), Tapting (Solukhumbu), 07/02/1964

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


expid: AMAD19109
peakid: AMAD
year: 2019
route1: SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Chung Hyun-Jae
sponsor: Korean Ama Dablam Expedition 2019
bcdate: 2019-04-12
smtdate: 2019-04-14
termdate: 2019-04-19
termnote: Abandoned at 5700m due to lack of time
campsites: BC(12/04,4600m),xxx(14/04,5700m)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  BC  12/04  4600m
  HPt 14/04  5700m by Chung.

  Climb abandoned on 14/04 due to lack of time.

  Chung only touched C1 shortly on 14/04. No summit attempt due to lack of time. Chung left BC on 19/04.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used

  Hired:
    Topchen Bhote


expid: AMAD19112
peakid: AMAD
year: 2019
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Manuel Laesser
sponsor: Satori Adventures Ama Dablam Expedition Spring 2019
countries: Austria, France, Georgia, Germany, Poland, USA
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2019-04-23
smtdate: 2019-05-03
smttime: 1130
campsites: BC(23/04,4400m),C1(27/04,5600m),C2(29/04,6200m),Smt(03,07/05)
agency: Satori Adventures
routememo:
  Team members climbed in separate groups:

    Manael Laesser summited on 3 May
    Olga Dobrowski summited on 3 May
    Rinji Sherpa summited on 3 May

    Bekar Phakishvili summited on 7 May
    Zurab Kvestadze summited on 7 May
    
    Maxime Joppe turned back at 6400m due to bad weather on 11 May

    Martin Spitzbart turned back at 6500m due to exhaustion on 21 May
    Andrew Coye turned back at 6500m due to bad weather on 21 May
    Ngima Sherpa turned back at 6500m with client on 21 May
    Phurba Sherpa turned back at 6500m with client on 21 May

    Karl Nessler stopped at BC due to altitude sickness on 23 May
    Sange Sherpa stopped at BC with client on 23 May


expid: ANN119101
peakid: ANN1
year: 2019
route1: N Face (Dutch Rib)
nation: France
leaders: Michel Baronian
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks International Annapurna Expedition 2019
countries: China, Italy, Japan, Malaysia, Norway, Russia, S Korea, Serbia, Switzerland, Turkey, UK, USA
approach: Pokhara->Tatopani->Beni by road, heli to BC
bcdate: 2019-03-27
smtdate: 2019-04-23
smttime: 1500
campsites: BC(27/03,4200m),C1(5000m),C2(5500m),C3(21/04,6500m),C4(22/04,7000m),Smt(23/04)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Seven Summit Treks Annapurna expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Seven Summits provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below.

  Rope-fixing team
    Mingma David Sherpa
    Gesman Tamang
    Gyalje Sherpa
    Halung Dorchi Sherpa


  Michel Baronian (France)

  Camps: BC(29/03,4200m),C1(03/04,5000m),C2(04/04,5500m),C3(20/04,6500m),
         C4(22/04,7000m),xxx(23/04,7400m)
  Left:  26/04/2016
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned due to too much snow and high wind.

  Baronian and Pemba Sherpa started their summit push from on at 11 pm 22 April without supplementary oxygen. They reached 7400m around 3 am of 23 April and gave up further climbing due to snow conditions and wind plus he had to wait for an hour on the route and that was difficult for the climber without supplemental oxygen.

  Oxygen: Not used, not taken

  Sherpa:
    Pemba [Thinduk?] Sherpa


  Yachiyo Suzuki (Japan)

  Camps: BC(29/03,4200m),C1(03/04,5000m),C2(04/04,5500m),C3(21/04,6500m),
         C4(22/04,7000m),Smt(23/04)
  Left:  25/04/2016
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success (4 pm)

  Suzuki and two Sherpas started their summit push form C4 on at 8:40 pm 22 April. They reached summit around 4 pm of 23 April, stayed on summit for about 10 minutes, then got back to C4 around 8 pm. They descended to BC next day.

  Oxygen: Suzuki from C2-summit-C4, Sherpas C4-summit-C4 

  Sherpa:
    Gyalge Sherpa
    Lama [?]


  Naoko Watanabe (Japan)

  Camps: BC(29/03,4200m),C1(09/04,5000m),C2(10/04,5500m),C3(20/04,6500m),
         C4(21/04,7050m),Smt(23/04)
  Left:  25/04/2016 by heli to Pokhara
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success by Watanabe and Kasang Dawa at 3:52 pm

  Summit team left 10:30 pm on 22/04. Rope was fixed by Nims Purja's team. Difficult climb. They spent about 20 min. on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 10 pm. On 24/04 to BC.

  Oxygen:
    Used from above C2 to top to C2 by Watanabe
    From C4 to top to C4 by Kasang Dawa.

  Sherpa:
    Kasang Dawa Sherpa


  Haakon Aasvang (Norway)

  Camps: BC(28/03,4200m),C1(07/04,5000m),C2(08/04,5500m),C3(21/04,6500m),
         C4(22/04,7000m),Smt(23/04)
  Left:  26/04/2016
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success by Aasvang and Gesman Tamang at 4 pm

  Aasvang and his Sherpa along with other climbers started their summit push from C4 at 11 pm of 22 April and they reached the summit at 4 pm of 23 April. They stayed on summit for about 15 minutes and returned C4 at 6pm. Next day 24 April they went down to BC. The weather was clear and no wind. This was his second attempt. His first attempt was in 2017 on French route and had to abandon from C3 due to too much snow.

  Oxygen: Aasvang and Tamang from C3-smt-C4

  Hired:
    Gesman Tamang


  Sergei Baranov (Russia)

  Camps: BC(28/03,4200m),C1(03/04,5000m),C2(04/04,5500m),C3(21/04,6500m),
         C4(22/04,7000m),Smt(23/04)
  Left:  26/04/2016
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success by Baranov and Ming Temba at 3:15.

  Baranov, Nims Purja and Sherpas started on 23/04 from C4 at 1 am. Baranov and Ming Temba were the last to leave C4. Very deep snow. Purja and his Sherpas were in the front, but they alternated. Fixing team were about 4 people. Baranov and Ming Temba caught up with the rest of the group (who left at 10 pm on 22/04) at 2 pm. Mingma David broke trail through the whole French Couloirs.

  Weather conditions: very cold and windy. By first light sun came out, great day, not below -20; It was a late summit 3 pm, getting dark, but weather was good. The Sherpas fixed about three quarters of the French Couloirs.

  They spent about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 6 pm (all summiters).

  Baranov skied from C3 to BC (on 2nd rotation). He did not ski on summit rotation as he lost his ski boots in an avalanche that hit crampon point on 21/04.

  Oxygen: Used from C4 to summit and back (2 bottles)

  Sherpa:
    Ming Temba Sherpa


  Don Bowie (USA)

  Camps: BC(27/03,4200m),C1(10/04,5000m),C2(11/04,5500m),C3(21/04,6500m),
         C4(22/04,7000m),Smt(23/04)
  Left:  26/04/2016
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Success (3:30 pm)

  Bowie left C4 at 11.30 am. He was climbing without oxygen and caught up with the rest of the group after about half an hour. He had to wait in line for about an hour and decided to go down. He met Tendi Chhumbi Sherpa (with Findik) who grabbed him and told him to turn around and continue to climb. Eventually he was able to pass the rest of the group and continued to follow the He Jing, who was also attempting to climb without supplemental oxygen. As Bowie was not wearing a downsuit and no 8000m boots, his main concern was to stay warm. It was completely calm. The group was moving very slowly. Mingma David, Gesman Tamang and Gyalge were fixing rope at the front. He spent about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where he arrived at 7 pm. Stayed for the night

  Don acclimatised on the other side of the mountain and slept a couple of nights at 4800m on 04/04 and 05/04. He then went around to the north side and had his first night at C1 on and then stayed five nights at C2 he touched C3 on that rotation. 

  Oxygen: Not used, not taken

  Malaysian rescue:

  Bowie heard about Wui Kin Chin still being up on the mountain. They waited for the oxygen to be dropped by helicopter. However Gobal Rescue, the insurance company, refused to drop the oxygen for insurance reasons. As there was no oxygen, Bowie went to BC on 24/04. In the meantime, Chin’s wife organised a helicopter. On 25/04 Simrik arrived. Chin was at 7500m. The B3 took Nims, Mingma David, Gesman Tamang and Gyalgen to C3 by long-line. They then climbed up to C4 and reached Chin at about 7 pm. The rescue team then dragged Chin down to C3, where they arrived in the morning of 26/04. Simrik then long-lined him to BC. According Bowie, Chin could not move his legs or bend them and his legs were frozen to the hips. Bowie flew to hospital with Chin.


  Tunc Findik (Turkey)

  Camps: BC(28/03,4200m),C1(03/04,5000m),C2(04/04,5500m),C3(20/04,6500m),
         C4(22/04,7000m),xxx(23/04,7400m)
  Left:  25/04/2016
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success by Findik and Tenji Chumpi at 3:00 pm.

  Findik and Tenji Chumpi started out on 22/04 from C4 at 10 pm.

  Weather conditions: very cold and windy. By first light sun came out, great day, not below -20; It was a late summit 3 pm, getting dark, but weather was good.

  Technical: C2 to C3 was hardest. They did a variation of the Dutch Rib, before C3.

  Fixed ropes: Yes (Mingma David, etc, Nims Purja, fixed in advance especially on the French Couloir before the summit).

  Route: From BC, side of the moraine 50m rappel; to C1 400-500mtrs; from C1 cross flat glacier 2 kms (lots of crevasses); to C2 another 600-700m fixed line, crevasse ice wall 55-degree ice climb; to C3 700m of ice climbing (grades 50 to 90); small vertical steps from C3 to C4, lots of crevasses so all the way almost fixed lines. Summit day – generally easy, but with some ice slopes that needed fixed ropes. The sickle glacier to the summit was a fixed line all the way, flat, even if not need, deep snow, trench walk. To the summit last 300m (French Couloir) 45-degree snow and ice, on the entrance grade 2/3 easy mixed climbing on rock.

  Route condition/avalanche/snow conditions: deep snow, had a trench like trail.

  How long on summit before descending: 10-12 minutes; in 2.5 hrs back to C4 at 5:30 pm (Tenji followed 45 mins after).

  Back to BC on 24/04: started at 7 am from C4 7000m, reached C2 at 9 am. Arrived BC by 1:30 pm same day (24/04). Findik was first to arrive at BC out of those who summited that day.

  Next day 25/04 heli to Dana/Tatopani, evening in Pokhara.

  Oxygen: Used (1 tube from 7000m to summit back to C4)

  Sherpa:
    Tenji Chumpi Sherpa


  Sophie Lauvad (Switzerland)

  Camps: BC(28/03,4200m),C1(03/04,5000m),C2(04/04,5500m),C3(20/04,6500m),
         C4(22/04,7000m),xxx(23/04,7400m)
  Left:  25/04/2016 by heli to Pokhara
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success by Lavaud and Dawa Sangay Sherpa at 3:15 pm.

  Summit team left C4 at 10:30 pm on 22/04. It was cold and a little windy. Nims Purja and his Sherpas fixed the rope to the summit in sections. They left the French Couloir and went to the left side to the summit. They spent about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 6:30 pm.

  When they were at C4 they heard on the radio that the Malaysian climber was still on the mountain. Nima, Chin’s Sherpa, came down to C4 and said that his client was exhausted and he thought that he had edema. Nima went to sleep at C4. The team at C4 could not do anything as they had used up all their oxygen and the Sherpas would have been too tired to go back up without oxygen. The following day, they descended to BC. On 25/04, the helicopter came to drop three Sherpas off at C3 (see Don Bowie’s account above).
   
  Avalanche on Crampon Point: On 17/04 an avalanche wiped out crampon point (4500m). Fortunately nobody was on the mountain, everyone was at BC. Both Dawa Sangay and Lavaud lost their crampons. Fortunately, they had spare crampons which they picked up from BC.

  Oxygen: Used from C4 to top to mid-way down to C4 by Lavaud and Dawa Sangay.

  Sherpa:
    Dawa Sangay Sherpa


  Sebastiano Valentini (Italy)
  Mario Casanova (Italy)

  Name:  Trentino Annapurna 1 Expedition 2019
  Camps: BC(08/04,4200m),C1(12/04,5000m),C2(17/04,5500m),C3(11/05,6500m),
         C4(12/05,7100m),xxx(13/05,7350m)
  Left:  14/04/2016
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned due to high winds.

  Casanova reached C5 site together with Arjun Vajpai on 13/05. They were on their summit push; however, the winds were too strong (about 50km/h) to continue. So he decided to descend. On 14/05, he descended to BC, which took him about 14 hours.

  Valentini reached 6200m on 11/05. He has been having stomach problems and was too weak to continue. He descended to BC.

  Valentini and Casanova did not join the big summit push 23/04 as they were on their own program, no Sherpas and no oxygen. There were too many people on the route for them and the weather window was not long enough.

  Oxygen: Not used, not taken


  Other climber notes from Tunc Findik:

  Info on other climbers: On summit Nims Purja was there as well as Lavaud and Dawa Sangey (climbed with Lavaud before), Mingma David Sherpa, Don Bowie (10 mins after w/o O2), Baranov just minutes before; Aasvang and Jones-Warner just behind, Cho also (Korean).

  1.  Baronian – returned a little bit above C4; didn’t feel good, very cold.
  2.  Celikovic retreated above C2 at 6100m. Icefall too technical, too exposed for
      him. 
  3.  Casanova still in BC trying and Valentini also (who is not on Findik’s permits)
  4.  He Jing tried without O2 but used it 200m before summit.
  5.  Baranov summited just ahead of Findik.
  6.  Chin (Malaysia) arrived late at 5:30 then went missing. Had a personal Sherpa 
      and had quarrel, didn’t want O2. Sherpa left him near the summit (on way down? 
      Did he summit? Apparently has photos to prove it).
  7.  Japanese Suzuki and Watanabe both summited with lots of O2.
  8.  Lavaud summitted.
  9.  Don Bowie summitted without O2.
  10. Rupert Guy summitted
  11. Cho (Korean) summitted
  12. Aasvang (Norway) summitted

  Remaining to summit on Arjun Vajpai, Italians (mentioned in no.3), Li (Chinese)


expid: ANN119102
peakid: ANN1
year: 2019
route1: N Face
nation: India
leaders: Arjun Vajpai
sponsor: Arjun Vajpai Annapurna Expedition 2019
approach: Heli from Tatopani to BC
bcdate: 2019-03-29
smtdate: 2019-05-13
termdate: 2019-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 7350m due to high winds
campsites: BC(29/03,4200m),C1(06/04,5000m),C2(07/04,5500m),C3(11/05,6500m),C4(12/05,7100m),xxx(13/05,7350m)
agency: Dolma Outdoor (Asian Trekking pmt)
routememo:
  BC  29/03
  C1  06/04  5000m
  C2  07/04  5500m
  C3  11/05  6500m
  C4  12/05  7100m
  Hpt 13/05  7350m by Vajpai

  Vajpai reached C5 site together with Mario Casanova (SST) on 13/05. He was on his summit push, however, the winds were too strong (about 50km/h) to continue.

  On 14/05, he descended to BC, which took him about 14 hours.

  On 12/05 Vajpai took a fall between C3 and C4 when an anchor came out. He fell about 50m and hit a few people on the way down; however, nobody was seriously injured and they all continued.

  During the expedition, Vajpai got a helicopter ride with the Chinese team of Dolma Outdoor. He stayed a few nights in Pokhara, one night in Kathmandu and then went back to Delhi for three nights. He returned to Annapurna BC after about one week.

  Rajesh Magar reached C4 on 12/05. He had a problem with his hamstrings and descended to following day.

  Climb abandoned on 13/05 due to high winds.

  Oxygen: Used from C4 sleeping and down to C3.


expid: CHAM19101
peakid: CHAM
year: 2019
route1: NW Face (up), S Ridge (down)
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Marek Holecek
sponsor: Czech Chamlang Expedition 2019
ascent1: 7th
approach: Lukla->Namche->Chhukung->Amphu Labtsa->Mera Peak->BC
bcdate: 2019-05-10
smtdate: 2019-05-21
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2019-05-24
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak (8 May)
agency: Green Horizon
campsites:
  BC(10-16/05,4800m),Biv1(17/05,5600m),Biv2(18/05,6000m),Biv3(19/05,6700m),Biv4(20/05,7250m),Smt(21/05),Biv5(21/05,7000m),Biv6(22/05,6000m)

routememo:
  Approach: Flight to Lukla on 29/04, trekking via Namche, Chhukung, Amphu Laptsa Pass, Mera Peak.

  10/05-16/05: Base camp at approximately 4800m
  16/05: Advanced base camp at 5200m
  17/05: Bivy I at 5600m
  18/05: Bivy II at 6000m 
  19/05: Bivy III at 6700m
  20/05: Bivy IV at 7250m 
  21/05: Summit at 10am by both members. Traverse and down to Bivy V at 7000m
  22/05: Bivy VI at 6000m
  23/05: Back to base camp (4800m)
         Holecek same day to Khare; Hak stayed at BC. They both met again in 
         Khare on 24/05.
  25/05: Trek to Kote
  26/05: Trek to Lukla
  27/05: Flight to KTM

  Alpine-style ascent. Found old rusty piton and carabiner near summit at 7000m. Probably from 1962 first ascent.

  They only took one rope 80m, 7mm. Northwest face mostly 70°, some parts 90°. 
  Some parts good, some parts horrible. First part of NW Face problematic because of rockfall. High objective danger. Second half of face some danger because of seracs. Strong winds coming every day after noon. They only climbed to noon, after that no visibility and too windy.

  Passage between 6000m and 6700m most difficult. Mixed ground. After that totally committed, no way back. Very sharp summit ridge for 1 km, problematic. Bivy IV located on summit ridge, only 1 hour to summit from there. They started from bivy IV at 9 am. On summit at 10 am. Beautiful view from the summit, very cold.

  Descent via South Ridge (classic route 1962). Many rappels down, more difficult than expected.

  Climbing route: Ascent North Face/Northwest Face; descent via South Ridge

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

  Other peaks: Mera Peak on 08/05.


expid: CHAM19102
peakid: CHAM
year: 2019
route1: W Ridge
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Blaz Navrsnik
sponsor: Slovenian Chamlang Expedition 2019
approach: Lukla->Chhutanga->Kote->Khare->Tangnag->Mera La->BC
bcdate: 2019-04-09
smtdate: 2019-04-19
termdate: 2019-05-07
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to blue ice
campsites: BC(09/04,4950m),xxx(19-20/04,6200m)
agency: Traditional Treks
routememo:
  BC  09/04    4950m
  HPt 19-20/04 6200m on the West Ridge by Balazic and Kosir (rest of the members to
                     around 6000m).

  Climb abandoned on 26/04 due to blue ice. Team left BC on 07/05.

  Alpine-style climbing: Two members went up to 6200m. No more attempts due to blue ice.

  Other peaks: Summited Unnamed peak 6200m (approx) situated west of Peak 41 on 29 April by Balazic and Kosir via West Ridge; same day Marsic and Navrsnik via West Wall. On 03 May Kosir and Marcic via West Face, good route for climbing, but difficult.  

  Weather for the first 14 days: every evening snowfall, afternoon was Ok, rest of time foggy.

  Skvarca left from Tangnag due to HAS 4200m on 6 April. He was hospitalized for about three days in Kathmandu.


expid: CHOB19101
peakid: CHOB
year: 2019
route1: NE Face-NE Ridge
nation: Cyprus
leaders: Kyriakos Rossidis
sponsor: Nepal Social Treks Chobuje Expedition 2019
countries: Romania
approach: Chechet->Simigaon->Beding->Na (BC in Na village)
bcdate: 2019-04-21
smtdate: 2019-05-08
termdate: 2019-05-11
termnote: Abandoned at 5965m due to not finding a safe place for a bivouac, tiredness and very strong wind
othersmts: Attempted Chekigo (to 5800m on S Face)
campsites: BC(21/04,4150mm),ABC(5000m),Biv1(07/05,5627m),xxx(08/05,5965m)
agency: Nepal Social Treks
routememo:
  We started the climb for the NE Face of Chobutse Peak on Tuesday 7th May 2019, from our Advanced Base Camp (if it can be called this way) on the right side moraine (geographically) of Ripimo Glacier, at an altitute of aproximately 5000m. We found a place to traverse the unstable slopes of the glacier and we started towards the base of the NE at around 1:30 am. After aproximately 2 hours we reached the base and started to simul solo on easy terrain up the first part of the face. We encountered the first difficulties quite low, on a rockband. We roped up there and climbed technical terrain (around M5 max) for 4 pitches. Then we simul-climbed a long snowfield. The morning sun started to melt the snow and the conditions got a bit dangerous because of falling snow and rocks. We found a suitable place for a bivouac and set our First Light tent at around 1 pm. We rested the all day waiting for the shade or the dark to set in. The next morning we wanted to start at 2 am, but the strong wind and spindrifts made it very difficult to cook and pack the tent. We started at 4:30 am on mixed terrain. We climbed 2 long pitches until we encountered hard, technical climbing again. There was no solid ice formed on the slabs so we had to climb mixed ground, in some places hard to protect (maybe around M6 or a bit more...but hard to tell...it was more delicate than physical). In between the technical rock bands we had easy ice. We then traversed left a few ice runnels and reached a snow slope with rotten snow. We climbed for 3 more pitches on the snow to reach a narrow ridge. At the end of the ridge (arround 5950m) we tried to find shelter or a bivouac place because the wind was getting quite strong and we were getting tired. We couldn't dig a platform because the ice was too thin and there was rock slabs underneath. Kyriakos climbed 40m higher and tried to
  find a place for a bivouac under an overhang, but the place was very unstable. Above us the terrain looked easier than before, but with long icy slopes that looked very physical. The next possible bivouac was probably on the N Ridge, exposed to wind and 300m higher. We decided that it was quite far for us to reach on that day so we started rappelling on a couloir facing east. Not finding any bivouac place lower, we kept on rapelling until the base of the couloir, then traversed over a hanging glacier (exposed terrain) and continued down climbing and rapelling until 1 am in the night. We then reached the base of the NE Face again and set our tent outside of objective dangers. The next day we continued our way down the Ripimo Glacier and back to Na village (our base camp).

  Chekigo attempt:

  We wanted to try to acclimatize on Chekigo peak because it was very close to Na village and our base camp. We had some pictures with previus attempt lines and routes on the S Face, but we managed to spot a virgin line in the middle of the face. It looked hard technically, but it looked challenging to us. We started from a bivouac under a big rock that protected us from potential ice fall from the big serac on the right side of the face. We climbed technical terrain at the base of the face and during the day we end up in a melting snowfield. It was very hard progress in the melting snow. We climbed very light, no bivouac gear, no tent. We only had water and some energy gels and some energy bars. We decided to abseil and go down (at 5800m) when we noticed that the climb would take us longer than we predicted.


expid: CHOY19101
peakid: CHOY
year: 2019
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Martin Szwed
sponsor: SummitClimb Cho Oyu Expedition 2019
countries: Austria, Canada, France, Netherlands, Switzerland
approach: Kathmandu->Kerung->Tingri->Cho Oyu BC
bcdate: 2019-04-14
smtdate: 2019-04-28
termdate: 2019-04-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to fatal crevasse fall by Phujung Bhote and future bad weather forecasts
campsites: CBC(14/04,4800m),IC(17/04,5400m),ABC(17/04,5700m),C1(27/04,6400m),xxx(28/04,7200m)
accidents: Sherpa died in fatal accident
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  CBC 14/04  4800m
  IC  17/04  5400m
  ABC 18/04  5700m
  C1  27/04  6400m
  HPt 28/04  7200m by all members and all 5 Sherpas.

  When the team reached high point, they were on their second rotation. They did not intend to sleep at C2, but only touch it, which they did. They descended to ABC on 28/04, and on 29/04 they went to Tingri to rest, apart from Trump and the Weingartls, who stayed at ABC.

  On 29/04, the Sherpas were intending to continue fixing the rope above C2. Mark Trump was going up with them to set up his C2. About 20m below C2, Phujung Bhote slipped and fell down for about 20 metres and then slipped into a crevasse. The other four Sherpas fixed some rope to abseil down to Phujung, but only found him dead.

  On 29/04, expedition leader Szwed who was in Tingri with his team at the time, found out via the liaison officer that Phujung was killed in an accident. On 30/04 Szwed informed his team. On 30/04 liaison officer went back to Cho Oyu ABC to deal with the death and Szwed stayed in Tingri to coordinate the follow-up actions. After he received weather forecast from Innsbruck, which forecast unfavorable weather for summit push until 16 May, he decided to abandon climb. On 02/05 Szwed returned to ABC and on 03/05 the rest of the team joined him there. The Sherpas went up to C1 and C2 to bring the stuff down on 02/05 and team left BC on 05/05.

  On 30/04, the two climbing Sherpas (Ang Dawa and Geli Sherpa) went back up to retrieve the body, but they did not have the equipment or strength to haul him out of the crevasse from 50 metres. They fixated Phujung’s body to the wall of the crevasse to leave him there in case somebody will come and get his body.

  Climb abandoned on 02/05 due to bad weather and fatal accident

  Fixed rope: 1800m

  Oxygen: Taken and not used

  Sherpa in fatal accident:
    Phujung Bhote, Hatiya-1, Makalu-Barun, 31/05/1979


expid: CHOY19102
peakid: CHOY
year: 2019
route1: NW side
nation: India
leaders: Debasish Biswas
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Cho Oyu Expedition 2019
countries: France, Italy
approach: Via Tingri by Jeep
bcdate: 2019-04-29
smtdate: 2019-05-14
termdate: 2019-05-17
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to unwillingness of Sherpas to go higher
campsites: BC(29/04,5700m),C1(03/05,6400m),C2(14/05,7100m),xxx(14/04,7700m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  29/04  5700m
  C1  03/05  6400m
  C2  14/05  7100m
  HPt 14/05  7100m at C2 by all members
             7700m by Sherpas

  Weather was very good. Sherpas had fixed the ropes up to 7700m. Members had planned whole summit push, but Sherpas for some reason suddenly changed their mind at C2 and denied to go any higher. Members still don’t know why. Climb abandoned on 14/05. All members down to ABC (BC) on 15/05. Team left BC on 17/05.

  Climb abandoned on 14/05 due to Sherpas reluctant to go higher.

  Oxygen: Taken for summit push, not used.

  Hired:
    Dawa Chhiring Sherpa (7700m), 1988-10-25, Lelep-9, Taplejung
    Ngada Sherpa (7700m), 1976-02-02, Lelep-9, Taplejung
    Ngima Sherpa (7700m), 1972-12-02, Jubing-9, Solukhumbu

  This season ended up with no summits on Cho Oyu. There were 17 members attempting for the summit. Biggest team [SummitClimb] was of 10 members whose four Sherpas started fixing ropes until C2. One Sherpa died who fell into crevasse near C2. Overall situation was that the big team called off the climbing and rest of 5 Sherpas fixed ropes until C3. At the end the due to lack of manpower the Sherpas fixing ropes gave up the work. Most of the routes have less snow, but blue ice made climbing more difficult. Weather was mostly windy.


expid: CHOY19103
peakid: CHOY
year: 2019
route1: NW side
nation: Norway
leaders: Carl Hofsli
sponsor: Snowy Horizon Cho Oyu Expedition 2019
countries: Bulgaria, France
approach: Kathmandu->Kerung->Tingri->Cho Oyu BC
bcdate: 2019-04-20
smtdate: 2019-05-14
termdate: 2019-05-17
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to lack of prepared fixed rope and manpower
campsites: CBC(20/04,4800m),IC(23/04,5300m),ABC(24/04,5700m),C1(30/04,6400m),C2(14/05,7200m),xxx(14/05,7700m)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  CBC 20/04  4800m
  IC  23/04  5300m
  ABC 24/04  5700m
  C1  30/04  6400m
  C2  14/04  7200m
  HPt 14/05  7200m by Haristoy and Teneff
      14/05  7700m by Sherpas.

  High point for Hofsli on 11 May at 6500m.

  Rope-fixing to C1 done by Everest Pariwar Sherpas and C1 to C2 done by Sherpas from Snowy Horizon and Seven Summit Treks.

  Climb abandoned on 15 May due to no fix rope above C3 due to lack of manpower.

  Team left BC on 17 May.

  Accidents: Hofsli got chest infection and went to Tingri for five days from 3 May.

  Oxygen: Taken, not used.

  Hired:
    Mingmar Tamang (7700m), 1968-06-21

  This season ended up with no summits on Cho Oyu. There were 17 members attempting for the summit. Biggest team [SummitClimb] was of 10 members whose four Sherpas started fixing ropes until C2. One Sherpa died who fell into crevasse near C2. Overall situation was that the big team called off the climbing and rest of 5 Sherpas fixed ropes until C3. At the end the due to lack of manpower the Sherpas fixing ropes gave up the work. Most of the routes have less snow, but blue ice made climbing more difficult. Weather was mostly windy.


expid: DHA119101
peakid: DHA1
year: 2019
route1: W Face
nation: Slovakia
leaders: Peter Hamor
sponsor: Slovakian-Romanian Dhaulagiri 1 Expedition 2019
countries: Romania
approach: Pokhara->Beni->Darbang->Japanese BC
bcdate: 2019-04-17
smtdate: 2019-05-19
termdate: 2019-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 5600m due to high winds and very long, difficult route
campsites: BC(17/04,4000m),C1(09/05,5000m),C2(19/05,5600m),xxx
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  BC  17/04  4000m (Japanese BC)
  C1  09/05  5000m (on top of the ridge)
  C2  19/05  5600m
  HPt 19/05  5600m by Colibasanu, Hamor and Gane.

  Team stayed for two days at BC after arrival. Then they went to Dhaulagiri normal BC for one night and French Pass for one night and returned to BC. They started to fix the route from BC to C1 on the North Face. It took them six (non-consecutive) days to fix the route from 4,600m to C1 on the top of the ridge. The approach from BC to the bottom of the face was over moraine, a snowfield. The conditions on the face were very difficult – mixed rock and ice, but with very brittle ice so Colibasanu cleared the rock from the ice with a shovel to make it easier. They fixed about 600m of rope up to the ridge.

  Once they had established their C1 on the top of the ridge on 09/05, they fixed to about 100m below C2 and returned to C1 to stay the night on 10/05. On 11/05, they finished fixing to C2 and put up the tent, but did not stay the night as it was too windy. The route on the ridge was not too difficult with rock slabs, ice and snow ridge. They descended to BC. They remained in BC for one week and waited for the wind to abate. 

  On 17/05, they started their summit push even though the weather forecast was still predicting wind. When they woke up at C2 at 20/05 it first seemed calm, however, the tent was protected and they did not feel the wind. Higher up they saw the spindrifts and decided to abandon the expedition. They packed up their stuff and descended to BC the same day.

  According to Horia, the problem of this route was the technical challenge with partially overhanging rock and ice. It was slow going and he thinks that it would probably help to be acclimatised before getting to the ridge. They often covered a long distance, but only gained 30 or 40 metres in altitude, which made the climb extremely cumbersome.

  Climb abandoned on 20/05 due to being too windy and left BC on 21/05.

  Fixed rope: 1000m

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


  Facebook Post: Horia Colibasanu, 23 May 2019 (GOOGLE translation from Romanian)

  I go down carefully, with the corners bobbing on the crumbly shales, plunging me from time to time into the frozen frost. Although here would go without a fixed rope, we set it to move faster. A fraction of a second and the rope above me clings to a stone like the palm, which rolls toward the rope beneath me. Peter went into the paddle for 2 minutes and I don't know if he got out, and the stone picked up speed. I yell "Rock!" With all the power left in the breath and I just hope to find Peter untouched and with the design of the helmet sponsors unaffected. As I enter the ridge, I notice that Marius is coming from above. I have no desire for stones so I jump back, and during the crossing I put my nails behind my neck and take care of the rocky corners.

  Crossing is easy, but with 20kg on the back and dozens of sharp corners underneath, a slip is not an option. Even in the fixed rope that keeps us from the 1000m below.

  Peter is ok, Marius comes too, but one of my carbon telescopic ski sticks falls on my backpack. It stops before a threshold, where a 10m jump follows. I don't want to leave it, it is expensive and I find it only in the States, so I get rid of the rope and start to descend, with both poles, the distance of 6m up to him. The corners grind on a plate hidden under the snow and I get stuck in the nuts. I still have 3m, but the hole below me looks like hell...

  It's been a while since I had never made such an expedition. In the sense of long, hard and beyond hard. Coincidentally or not, the team is amazing. Peter and Marius seem to be taken from the job description. They climb like devils, chariots and finally I share a cigarette. And in the bad weather, there are days in a row under the basic conditions of the Spartan camp as if they were on holiday in Bali, enjoying a coffee, a pipe or a Romanian snack from Marius as if we were 5 stars, not in a tent tied with ropes so that the hurricane predicted the next day will not take us.

  Opening a new route is not easy in Romania either. In the Himalayas even more so. And by far the biggest impediment is the unknown, estimating what awaits you the next day.

  Despite the light way we try to take things, we are not here on leave. We did not come to have fun, we agreed to come and suffer. And I knew it would be hard.
  But does the heavy have enough degrees of comparison? Because it is hard to describe in adjectives how things get harder, harder and harder and you start to wonder not if the hard time is longer, but how long it will increase in intensity and whether it will take over.

  In the Himalayas, a normal route runs about 600-1000m a day for about 3000-4000m from the base camp to the summit. In other words, once acclimatized it reaches the peak in 3-4 days, plus a day-two for descent.

  Here, for the 4000m, we also had good days when we advanced 200-300m. But there were 3 consecutive days, separated by a day's break, in which we worked 10-11 hours, we climbed almost 1000m to advance on the new route 20-30m. Then back down, not knowing when this work is going to end, rather than alpine.

  In the section of the wall and the oven I saw about what material the strings, the pitons, the friends, Marius and Peter are made. Much louder than I would have thought.

  I haven't beaten pythons for 10 years. I'm not happy to tell Peter that they are not well placed, consequently, with the thin dentist brand, they put two hands on the hammer tail. I'm Monica Seles, just don't scream. On overhanging portions, the fixed rope moves away from the horn and when climbing we need to pedal, in order to climb the rope with 2 blockers. No, not pedal bikers, but speleologists, anyway as mountaineering as a bunch of roses on the backpack. At a soft snow overhang, in which there are no nests, I come prepared with a shovel and after an hour, I advance 5m, removing the overhang and making steps from aluminum corners. I'm flea and broken. I freeze for an hour, with the fluff on me, along with Peter, while Marius skillfully passes the one-meter dash. Needless to say, after 4m he got off and took the climbing shoes, leaving his ankle boots with hangers on a python, freezing his legs terribly until the end of the rope length.

  But at the end of the wall we do not expect a smooth ridge to the top, but a new technical section, lighter than the wall, but which requires fixed ropes. Another week's work.

  After a month and a half of efforts, the most difficult part of the new route is opened. We are only at 5600m, we have not been able to acclimate ourselves above, but from here it is easier. You can walk on your feet, and even if it's not a walk in the park, you may go ahead and especially descend without fixed ropes.

  We only need a window of good weather, with no wind above 30km / h in the peak area, for at least 4 days. I went slowly, being charged and not acclimatized.

  This year, the window didn't come. It seems that, as in 2014, a disruption of the weather in the northern hemisphere leads to endless rains in Romania, floods in Slovakia and the lack of windows for oxygen-free ascents in the Himalayas.

  We are in the tent at 5600m. Marius is left with his head in the hood of his sleeping bag, almost completely submerged. To the right, Peter began to rush. It's 5 o'clock, it lights up. The lucky guy in the middle starts putting ice in the aluminum pot and brews his coffee. With the blessings of the one who invented 3 + 1, we begin to indulge. Peter jokes, as every morning, about condensation. Marius looks calmly as if he were seeing the sea for the first time. I pull my head out of the tent and at 300m above us the windflags run along the whole ridge. 40-50 km/h wind.

  Peter looked questioningly. I'm just nodding my head. I knew since we left that we would not have a good forecast, but we decided to try. Let's get to camp 2 and not come back unless we are in danger, because the wind does not let us. And possibly recover the equipment of several thousand euros from a hat. And the wind doesn't let us.

  We have a long descent, heavy and risky in front, we can not detach yet. Not after a year of work, hopes and dreams. Not after 2 months of intense efforts, between the rocks and the ice. Slowly, there is an idea: We do not take everything! Let's leave what we can for next year. After all, the harder part is solved, we know the route to a great extent.

  All we need is a decision for the year and a good weather window. I can hardly wait for the transition period to begin to train again.

  Especially since I have both telescopic sticks.

  And a valuable team: two forwarding colleagues I can count on, partners and sponsors who understand the Himalayan challenge because they are also used to such challenges in performance work.

  I thank all those who were with me, with a thought of encouragement!


expid: EVER19101
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Sherpa Rope-Fixing
sponsor: Sherpa Rope-Fixing Everest South 2019
smtdate: 2019-05-14
smttime: 1345
campsites: Smt(14/05)
routememo:
  Rope-fixing summiters:

  From Himalayan Guides:
    Siddhi Bahadur Tamang (Group Leader) Lamabagar-5, Dolakha
    Pasdawa Sherpa, Makalu-9
    Dorje Gyalgen Sherpa, Khumjung-8
    Pasang Dawa Sherpa, Khumjung-8
    Dawa Nurbu Sherpa, Makalu-9
    Ming Dorje Sherpa, Makalu-4
    Ang Phurba Sherpa, Yaphu-9
    Sangbu Bhote Lama, Hatiya-1

  From The Himalayan Times (14 May 2019):

  Mt Everest records season’s first summit as Sherpa climbers open summit route
  Rajan Pokhrel

  KATHMANDU: A team of experienced mountaineering guides successfully reached the top of the world opening a climbing route to the summit of Mt Everest this afternoon.
  Gyanendra Shrestha, a liaison officer at the Everest base camp, told THT that at least eight Nepali climbers successfully fixed the climbing ropes from the South Col to the summit point becoming the season’s first team to scale Mt Everest at around 1:45 pm.

  The team had reached the balcony area yesterday fixing ropes from the South Col, he added.

  According to Iswari Paudel, Managing Director at Himalayan Guides, highly experienced rope-fixing high-altitude climbers who stood atop Mt Everest include Siddhi Bahadur Tamang from Dolakha, Pasdawa Sherpa from Sankhuwasabha, Dorji Gyaljen Sherpa and Pasang Dawa Sherpa from Solukhumbu, Ang Phurba Sherpa, Dawa Nurbu Sherpa, Ming Dorchi Sherpa and Sangbu Bhote from Sankhuwasabha.

  Tamang-led rope fixing team struggled for hours to reach the summit by placing ropes above the South Col, Shrestha added.

  The Expedition Operators Association of Nepal has assigned Himalayan Guides to fix the route above Camp II this season while a team of icefall doctors assigned by the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee opened the climbing route from the base camp to Camp II.


expid: EVER19102
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Dawa Steven Sherpa
sponsor: Asian Trekking Eco-Everest Expedition 2019
countries: Greece, India, Syria, UK, USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-14
smtdate: 2019-05-21
smttime: 0455
termdate: 2019-05-25
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche on 20 April; summited Pumori (EVER-191-02)
campsites: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(26/04,6090m),C2(27/04,6530m),C3(19/05,7130m),C4(20/05,7790m),Smt(21-22/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Summit team left at 7:30 pm from C4, very windy cold. 5 set off together (Hollis, Magitsis, Akkad, Anastasopoulou, Devi, then Dawa Steven + 2 Chinese followed (3rd Chinese returned from C3 or C4). Knee-high snow from the Balcony, difficult to walk and break the trail, so Pemba Tshering and Hollis broke the trail. Akkad had mask problems with his beard (Akkad's Sherpa was Samden Bhote; everyone said he was the best out of the whole team).

  Further details of climb from Hollis: On 20/05 started at 8 pm from C4; it was quite windy. Probably 20 climbers ahead. Nick and Pemba Tshering passed them in about 1.5 hrs, breaking the trail. Snowed-over trail, powdery, was hard; had to pull out ropes up over the snow. On the Balcony did an O2 change and waited for other teams to help break trail. Upon seeing others weren't in good shape to do so, Nick and Pemba pushed on ahead themselves. Dropped down from South summit and did an O2 change. Nick was waiting for the famous Hillary Step section. Getting up to the South Summit with the steep rock section turned out to be more difficult than the Hillary Step, which he ended up not even noticing on the way up, it was so insignificant, and suddenly they were at the summit. This is Nick's first attempt. He had some mask issues, ice blocked it, a bit frightening.

  Hollis reached summit on 21/05 at 4:55 am just as it was getting light. His vision was cloudy so descended right away. Spent less than 10 mins on summit.

  Akkad arrived at 5:24 am, Anastasopoulou just behind a couple of seconds. 15 minutes on summit.

  Devi with Sherpa summited at 5:58 am, stayed on the summit for 20 minutes. They had started from C4 at 8:30 pm. Back to C4 at 9 am. Very windy and cold on summit day, not good weather. 

  Magitsis abandoned climbed at 4:30 am at South Summit due to frozen air valve on mask (not able to breathe). Tshering Tashi descended ith him.

  Hollis got to C4 with vision problems. Lay down for 2.5 hrs. Then eyes got a little better and pushed down (still 21/05) and made it to C2 by 5 pm. 22/05 left C2 at 8am descended to BC.

  Akkad arrived back at C4 at 11:30 am, took one hour rest, then 12:30 pm went to C2 arriving at 9:30 pm. Stayed one night in C2 and 22/05 to BC.

  21/05 Magitsis arrived back at C4 at 7 am and Anastasopoulou at around 11 am. Then they both went straight down to C2 alone without Sherpas. They had problems with Sherpas who didn't follow them. Slept on the rocks in down suits in tents and later at around 9 pm both their Sherpas arrived with sleeping bags, etc. 22/05 everyone went to BC. 

  On 23/05 team heli to Pheriche, to Lukla then to KTM.

  Other details of the rest of the team provided by Hollis:

  Magitsis from Greece used O2 from C3; he did not summit. Clay (Indian from UK) arrived late to BC, went on rotation to C2 and heli-vaced out back to Ktm way before summit push. Randolph (from USA) also came in late and got altitude sickness at Lobuche, so he was evacuated early.


  Anita Devi details:
    BC  26/04  5350m
    C1  29/04  5800m (only 1 night)
    C2  30/04  6500m
    C3  02/05  7030m (rotation from C3)
    C4  20/50  7090m (no night on C4 just rested some hours before summit push)
    Summit push: 
      17/05 from BC started at 3 am to C2, 1 day rest
      19/05 went to C3 at 5 am 
      20/05 at 6 am went to C4, arrived 1 pm, rested; then 8 pm for summit push 
      21/05 at 5:58 am arrived at the summit with Sonam Chhiring


  Dawa Steven Sherpa details:

  Dawa Steven plus 4 Sherpas working with Samir Jung Thapa (photographer). Dawa Stevem and Samir worked together filming and cleaning.

  Summit push: night of 20/05 at 8:30 pm (no traffic jam). Summit on 21/05 at 7:30 am by Dawa Steven; Samir was a little ahead at around 7 am. Dawa was on summit for 1 hour. Samir about 2 hours taking photos. After the summit spent another night in South Col and did some cleaning up. Left for C2 on the 22/05. Back to BC on: 23/05
  	
  Sherpas: 
    Dawa Furi Sherpa
    Guru Jenjen Bhote
    Karma Chhiri Sherpa
    Da Jangbu Sherpa

  Samir and Dawa Steven left BC by heli on 25/05. This is the date that the last of the Asian Trekking Sherpas came through the icefall, cleared everything; the last of the load carrying Sherpas came through, all AT expeditions finished.


  Bhawna Dehariya, Vipin Chaudhary and Bharat Sharma details:

    BC  14/04  5364m
    C1  26/04  5900m
    C2  27/04  6440m 1st rotation
    C2  08/05  6440m 2nd rotation, then back to BC on 10/05
    C2  18/05  6440n 3rd rotation for summit push
    C3  20/05  7100m
    C4  21/05  7900m
    Smt 22/05	 at 9:40 am

  On 21/05 left C4 8 pm. Dehariya's oxygen regulator leaked on the Balcony so she had to wait for an hour. She ended up using her Sherpa's (Sonam) regulator and he told her to push on. He managed to fix the regulator and joined her half an hour later. They both summited together and spent 10 minutes on the summit.

  Descent: Cloudy, windy, after Hillary Step. By the Yellow Band there was a white out until C4. Dehariya and her Sherpa stayed at C4. Dehariya did not have enough O2 (0.8, only 20%). She fell asleep and woke up with zero O2 and managed to change the bottle. However she was not provided with enough O2 that night. She requested the Indian army team's Sherpa leader to bring a bottle of oxygen for her. Upon getting it, it was not full (just at 150). 23/05 Dehariya descended to C3 and changed another cylinder (at 100), then continued to C2 and stayed the night. 24/05 10 am Dehariya could not stand on her left leg, it was numb. She took painkillers. After 1 hour she felt better and walked down to BC. Dehariya back to BC on 24/05. Heli'd out from BC on 25/05 at 3 pm.

  Vipin Chaudhary and Bharat Sharma summited just before Dehariya on 22/05 and descended directly to C2. Descended to BC on 23/05. Heli'd out to KTM on 24/05, a day ahead of Dehariya.

achievment:
  Anastasopoulou was the 3rd Greek woman to summit Everest (other 2 Greek women summited 1 day before her)


expid: EVER19103
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Song Yu-Jiang
sponsor: China Dingfeng Everest Expedition 2019
approach: Lukla->Namche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-20
smtdate: 2019-05-21
smttime: 0549
termdate: 2019-05-22
campsites: BC(20/04,5350m),C1(29/04),C2(30/04),C3(19/05),C4(20/05,7790m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Team set off from BC at 2 am on 17 May. Everyone stayed at C2 on 18 an at C3 on 19 May.

  Wong Kuok-Weng stopped to ascent at 7600m because he was too exhausted to go ahead. He descended to Lhotse C4 and stayed there for one night on 21 May. He safely arrived BC at 3 pm on 22 May.

  Yan Hua-Dong and Tang Qun started summit push from C4 at 8:45 pm on 20 May; they both summited smoothly with two Sherpas together on 21 May. They arrived BC smoothly.

  They all flew back to Ktm by heli on 22 May.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used C2-Summit-C2 (Members)
    From C3-Summit-C3 (Sherpas)


expid: EVER19104
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Romil Barthwal
sponsor: Indian Army Snow Lion Everest Expedition IV 2019
countries: Nepal
approach: Lukla->Namche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-13
smtdate: 2019-05-22
smttime: 0400
termdate: 2019-05-25
campsites: BC(13/04,5350m),C2(29/04,6440m),C3(09/05,7000m),C4(21/05,7900m),Smt(22-23/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  13/04  5350m
  C1   --     --
  C2  29/04  6440m
  C3  09/05  7000m
  C4  21/05  7900m
  Smt 22/05  by Bathwal, Konchok Dolma, Bhuti, Karma Zopa, Karma, Jigmey Rapten,
             Urgyen Dorjee, Rinchen and 8 Sherpas between 4 am and 4:30 am.
  Smt 23/05  by Chauhan, Ram Singh, Sapkota and 3 Sherpas at 5 am
             Dawa Norbu, Phurbu Tsering, Sangey Dhondup and 3 Sherpas at 9 am.

  22/05 summit team left C4 at 6.30 pm on 21/05. Many people on the route. Urgyen Dorjee and Karma Zopa left C4 w/o O2 as they were attempting a non-ox ascent, however, they put on the oxygen just below the Balcony. Straightforward climb. They spent between 10 and 30 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, apart from Barthwal as he was waiting for his second summit team. On 23/05 members and Sherpas went down to BC.

  23/05 summit team left C4 at 8 pm. Phurbu Tsering left C4 without oxygen, but put it on on the Balcony. Straightforward climb. They spent about 30 minutes on the summit and first descended to C4, rested a bit and continued to C2. Last person in at 11:30 pm.

  Lhakpa Sherpa summited on both summit dates!

  On 24/05, everyone back to BC.

  Amit Chauhan, Dawa Norbu and BC manager are running the Everest marathon on 29/05.
  	
  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Rinchen, Karma, Ram Singh
    From 7700m to top to C2 by all other members (apart from Urgyen Dorjee,
      Karma Zopa and Phurbu Tsering who started at the Balcony)


expid: EVER19105
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Mike Roberts
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2019
countries: Iceland, Ireland, Nepal, Switzerland, UK, USA
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-13
smtdate: 2019-05-23
smttime: 0515
termdate: 2019-05-26
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-191-19)
campsites: BC(13/04,5350m),C1(22/04,5900m),C2(24/04,6440m),C3(21/05,7100m),C4(22/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  13/04  5350m
  C1  22/04  5900m
  C2  24/04  6440m
  C3  21/05  7100m
  C4  22/05  7900m
  Smt 23/05  by Gudmundsson, Svavarsson, Dawa Wangchu, Dawa Bhote and Chewang Dorje
             at 5:15 am; Ang Dorje and Sung-Bin Hilaire, Rinjin, Pemba, Dawa Gelje
             at 5:55 am, Johnson and Nima Chiri at 6:15 am, Smith, Pancoe, Pasang
             Bhote, Chheten Dorji, Guru Bhote, Tschupp and Pasang Anju at 7 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 9:45 pm. Slow going all the way to the Balcony. Below the Balcony they witnessed three people being lowered down, who were very exhausted – one of them maybe dead (probably from Kaitu expedition). After Balcony people spread out a bit. Straightforward climb for the group. There were about 35 people on the summit. They spent about 30 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 12:30 pm.

  Team, apart from Smith and Chheten Dorji, descended to C2 on 24/05 and BC on 25/05. Pancoe was intending to go to Lhotse afterwards, but was too tired and descended with the rest of the group.

  Johnson was flown out of C2 on afternoon of 24/05 due to minor frostbite on a few toes.

  Smith and Chheten Dorji left Everest C4 at 5:45 am. They reached Lhotse C4 at 6 am (very fast!), changed oxygen and left C4 Lhotse at 6:10 am. Only Elisabeth Revol on the route. They summited Lhotse at 11 am, spent about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at 5 pm. The Everest team was still at C2 and on 25/05 they all descended together.

  Non-summitting members:

  Hughes reached C3 on the second rotation, which was his high point. On summit rotation he reached C2, but had a chest infection and abandoned climb. He was helicoptered out of C2.

  Roberts stayed with Hughes and flew out of C2 with him.

  Crosse reached C2 on first rotation. He did not really acclimatize well and suffered from altitude. He was flown out from C2.

  Gudmundsson was a private client of Leifer Svavarsson.
  Alex Pancoe was a private Everest/Lhotse client of Robert Smith.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members
    From C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas
    On Lhotse Smith and Chheten from Everest C4 to top to C2. 

  Sherpa biodata:
    All Sherpas have been with AC before apart from Chheten Dorji.


expid: EVER19106
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Garrett Madison
sponsor: Madison Mountaineering Everest Expedition 2019
countries: Canada, Egypt, Lebanon, Oman, Poland, Saudi Arabia, UK
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-12
smtdate: 2019-05-23
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2019-05-27
othersmts: Attempted Lhotse (LHOT-191-24)
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),C1(21/04,5900m),C2(23/04,6440m),C3(21/05,7100m),C4(22/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  12/04  5350m
  C1  21/04  5900m
  C2  23/04  6440m
  C3  21/05  7000m
  C4  22/05  7900m
  Smt 23/05  by all members apart from John Klein, Richard Cost, Arthur Muir and
             Randy Perkins.

  Summit team left C4 at 10 pm. Too many people on the route. They passed some people. Klein reached the South Summit at about 8 am and turned back as Sherpa guide (Dawa Phinjo) thought he was going to slowly. Rest of the team reached summit between 6 am and 7:30 am, spent 30 minutes and descended to C4, where they arrived at about 11 am. Spent the night there and descended to C2 on 24/05 and BC on 25/05.

  Cost reached C1 21/04. He got altitude sick, returned to BC and took a helicopter out of BC.

  Muir and Perkins reached C2 on 23/04. They decided that the climb was not for them. Might come back with more training and Sherpas and oxygen.

  Ashok Tamang fell off the Lhotse face on 05/05 when he unclipped to get around some people. He fell a few hundred metres down the Lhotse face all the way to the bottom. He had a bad head injury and fractures in his face. He is likely to lose one eye. 

  Team left BC on 27/05 by helicopter.	
  	
  Oxygen:
    Taken and used by members from C2 to summit to base of Lhotse and 
    by Sherpas from C3 to summit to base of Lhotse face.


expid: EVER19107
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Kenton Cool
sponsor: Kenton Cool Everest Expedition 2019
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-22
smtdate: 2019-05-16
smttime: 0315
termdate: 2019-05-18
campsites: BC(22/04,5350m),C2(28/04,6440m),C3(14/05,7100m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  22/04  5350m
  C1   --     --
  C2  28/04  6440m
  C3  14/05  7100m
  C4  15/05  7900m
  Smt 16/05  by Cool, Lavelle, Dorje Gyalgen, Kami Dorje and Tenzi at 3:15 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 8:30 pm on 15/05. Straightforward climb. When they reached the summit, it was still dark, but they did not wait for sunrise as it was too cold. Took pictures on the south summit. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 6:30 am. Rested until 11:30 am and then descended to C2, where they arrived at 6 pm. On 17/05 to BC and left BC on 18/05 by heli.

  Sherpas:
    Dorje Gyalgen, Pangboche, Khumbu, 16/07/1982
    Kami Dorje, Yaphu-9, Makalu, 21/08/1994
    Tenzi Sherpa (1st time)

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C2 to top to C2 by members
    From C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.


expid: EVER19108
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: David Goettler
sponsor: Miss Hawley Remembrance Everest Expedition 2019
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-25
smtdate: 2019-05-23
termdate: 2019-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 8750m due to lack of oxygen, Sherpa support and change of weather
campsites: BC(25/04,5350m),C2(28/04,6440m),C3(08/05,7300m),C4(22/05,7900m),xxx(23/05,8750m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  25/04  5350m
  C1   --		--
  C2  28/04  6400m
  C3  08/05  7300m
  C4  22/05  7900m
  HPt 23/05  8750m just below the South Summit by Goettler at 11 am.

  On summit push Göttler left C4 at 2:30 am. On his ascent, he did not overtake anyone, but for him the route was quiet as most people left at 7 pm the previous day. Up to Balcony, he hardly met anyone. From the Balcony, he encountered more and more people coming down. When he reached the notch just below the South Summit, the weather changed and as too many people were coming down, he decided to turn back as he was without oxygen and Sherpa support. It did not take him very long to make that decision.

  He descended to C4 where he arrived at 1 pm, rested until 4:30 pm and continued to C2, where he arrived at 10:30 pm. He could not find his head torch, but bumped into 2 Sherpas from Asian Trekking who descended with him as they had a light.

  On 24/05, he descended to BC and left BC on 25/05.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


expid: EVER19109
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Ryan Waters
sponsor: Mountain Professionals Everest Expedition 2019
countries: Norway
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-13
smtdate: 2019-05-23
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2019-05-26
campsites: BC(13/04,5350m),C1(21/04,5900m),C2(28/04,6440m),C3(21/05,7100m),C4(22/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides (Ever Quest pmt)
routememo:
  BC  13/04  5350m
  C1  21/04  5900m
  C2  28/04  6440m
  C3  21/05  7100m
  C4  22/05  7900m
  Smt 23/05  by Teigen Gude, Gude Teigen, Tashi Sherpa, Pasang Lama at 10 am,
             Waters and Nima Wangchu at 10:20 am.

  Summit team left 9:30 pm on 22/05. Straightforward climb. Had to wait just below the Balcony and then again around the South Summit area. The Teigen Gude couple spent about 15 minutes on the summit and passed Waters and Nima Wangchu on their way up. Waters and Nima Wangchu spent about 5 minutes. They descended to C4, where they arrived at about 4 pm. On 24/05 to C2 where they arrived at 2 pm. On 25/05 back to BC and left BC on 26/05 by heli.

  Sherpas:
    All Sherpas were with Waters in 2017.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C3/C2 by members and Sherpas.


expid: EVER19110
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Greg Vernovage
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2019
countries: Canada, Denmark, Dominican Republic, France, Lebanon, Netherlands, Norway, UK
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-07
smtdate: 2019-05-22
smttime: 0415
termdate: 2019-05-25
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-191-04)
campsites: BC(07/04,5350m),C1(21/04,5900m),C2(22/04,6440m),C3(20/05,7300m),C4(21/05,7900m),Smt(22-23/05)
achievment: 1st Lebanese woman to summit Everest
agency: Beyul Adventure
routememo:
  BC  07/04  5350m
  C1  21/04  5900m
  C2  22/04  6440m
  C3  20/05  7300m
  C4  21/05  7900m
  Smt 22/05
      23/05

  Both summit teams left C4 around 8 pm on the previous night. They stayed an average of 15 minutes on the summit and descended either to C4 and C2.

  Richard Don Herbart was helicoptered out of C2 due to his ankle, which he sprained coming down the Lhotse face during C3 rotation on 06/05.

  Team left BC on 25/05 by heli (two walked).

  Sherpas above BC: 41

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C2 to top or high point to C2 by El-Lessey, Connolly, Dale,
      DeJong, Terry, Hartman
    From C3 to top to C2 by all other members
    From C4 to top to C4 or lower by Sherpas

  Connolly and Reese had permits for Lhotse, but did not make an attempt after Everest.


expid: EVER19111
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Ben Jones
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Everest Expedition 2019
countries: Iceland, Norway, UK
approach: Lukla->Namche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-08
smtdate: 2019-05-23
smttime: 1115
termdate: 2019-05-26
campsites: BC(08/04,5350m),C1(22/04,6100m),C2(25/04,6350m),C3(10/05,7150m),C4(22/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  BC  08/04  5350m
  C!  22/04  6100m
  C2  25/04  6350m
  C3  10/05  7150m
  C4  22/05  7900m
  Smt 23/05  by 12 team members (including Jones and one other guide Eric Murphy),
             plus 10 Sherpas from 11:15 am-12:15 pm.

  Summit team set off on 22/05 at midnight. Weather conditions were great, but were slow because of a couple of people on the line that held up everybody (inexperienced climbers).

  Time on Summit: Jones spent a little over an hour.

  Descent: again slow to get down. Everybody was at the S Col by 5 pm on 23/05. Spent night there, then went to C2 on the 24/05, and back to BC on 25/05.

  Matthew Brennan's high point was on 23/05 at 8 am at 8400m (abandoned due to going too slow, tired, exhaustion).

  Team left BC on 26/05 by heli to KTM (all team members).

  Sherpas above BC: 20

  Sherpas:
    Ang Norbu Sherpa, Thame
    Ang Pasang Sherpa, Thame
    Raj Kumar Magar
    Nima Tenzing Sherpa, Thame
    Karma Sarki Sherpa, Phortse
    Fur Kancha Sherpa, Thame
    Thukten Sherpa, Thame
    Pema Sherpa, Thame
    Mingma Tserring Sherpa, Thame
    Nawang Tenzing Sherpa, Thame

  Members at end: Including Jones, 14 members altogether. Crystal Budney signed up just to go to C2. 13 pushed for the summit; 12 made it to the summit.

  Oxygen: Taken and used


expid: EVER19112
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Paul Mayewski
sponsor: National Geographic Everest Science Expedition 2019
countries: Poland, UK
approach: Lukla->Namche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-18
smtdate: 2019-05-23
termdate: 2019-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 8450m due to fulfillment of scientific objectives
othersmts: Climbed Lobucbe East
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  This was a Science research project, the intention was not a summit bid but to install weather stations and collect samples of blocks of ice at the highest points possible, therefore closest to the summit would have been ideal, if a summit would have been impossible].

  At BC: lots of science and media people; at least 20/30 Nepali student and faculty from Tribhuvan, another 20/30 US media and faculty from different universities, plus Swedish media; ICIMOD personnel Inga (German woman).

  BC  18/04  5280m
  C1  06/05  6100m
  C2  07/05  6450m
  C3  20/05  7120m
  C4  21/05  7910m
  Hpt 23/05  8450m on Balcony at 8450m at time 3:30 am.

  The science team “worked” for 2 hrs installing weather stations and descended.

  Climb abandoned on 23/05 due to over-crowding, and anyway it was not the premier objective. Would have been nice to put a station higher on either Bishop Rock or South Summit.

  Summit push: 22/05 left C4 at 11:30 pm. Weather condition: light snow, light winds, good visibility. 22 pax set off, including the Sherpas. On 23/05 at 3:30 am arrived at the balcony at 8450m.

  [Baker added that although nothing happened in his group, incidents did not make it favorable to push for a summit: when leaving C4 a climber was walking about wailing and disoriented and lost – our Sherpas reunited him with his group. At the lower section of the triangular face they passed a dead body of perhaps the Indian climber who had fallen the day before. Another climber was being evac’d, lowered, literally pulled down because he was not able to walk, suffering HACE].

  Back to C4 23/05 at 8 am, packed and descended to C2, reaching at 2 pm. Back to BC on 24/05.

  Team left BC on 24/05 most of the group by heli. Few of team stayed at BC then walked to Namche. Baker left Namche for KTM by heli on 28/05.

  Sherpas: 
    Amrit Ale
    Panuru Sherpa
    Phu Tashi Sherpa
    Ila Nuru Sherpa
    Pasang Kami Sherpa
    Fura Chheten Sherpa
    Tenging Gyaljen Sherpa
    Ngima Rita Sherpa
    Urken Lenduk Sherpa
    Gyaljen Dorji Sherpa
    Pasang Sona Sherpa
    Phinjo Sherpa
    Pemba Sherpa
    Lakpa Gyaljen Sherpa
    Dawa Yangzum Sherpa

  Oxygen: Taken and used

  Members at end:   to the highest point 6 internationals
  Sherpas above BC: 15 to the highest point

  Record: Highest weather stations in the world at South Col and Balcony.


expid: EVER19113
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: David Hamilton
sponsor: Jagged Globe Everest Expedition 2019
countries: Portugal, Ukraine
approach: Lukla->Namche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-12
smtdate: 2019-05-22
smttime: 0430
termdate: 2019-05-24
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),C1(21/04,6400m),C2(26/04,6350m),C3(07/05,7150m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  BC  12/04  5350m
  C1  21/04  6100m
  C2  26/04  6350m
  C3  07/05  7150m
  C4  20/05  7900m
  Smt 22/05  by all members except Ougrin between 4:30-6:45 am.

  Summit team left at 19:30 on 21/05; weather was calm to light breeze until just below the South Smmmit when winds got up to 20 knots max. Route was fine, but there was a lot of people on the move. Passed 30-40 people before the route got narrow (halfway between the Balcony and the South Summit). Overall, on the way up to the South Summit not much waiting. Main waiting was on the Hillary Step up and then the descent. Waited 45 mins going up to Hillary Step. On the way down spent 2 hrs below the Hillary Step waiting.

  Time on the summit: Hamilton 1 hr on 22/05 (6 to 7 am), waiting for his clients. Descended with the 2 slower members. Entire team back to C4 between 9 am and 15:30 pm. On 23/05 to C2 and back to BC on 24/05.

  Team left BC on 24/05, walked to Lobuche. 25/05 Lobuche to Lukla by heli, 26/05 to Ramechap. Hamilton and Da Silva back to KTM on the 28/05, remaining 4 members back earlier on the 26/05.

  Dennis Ougrin high point was C3 (7150m) on 16/05 during rotations. No summit bid due to eye problem. Evacuated on 16/05 from BC.

  Sherpas:
    Pem Chhiri Sherpa (14th summit)
    Chhimi Lhenduk Gurung
    Mitra (Rakesh) Bahadur Tamang
    Ngima Rinji Sherpa
    Yula Sherpa
    Man Bahadur Tamang (1st summit)

  Oxygen: Taken and used


expid: EVER19116
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Damian Benegas
sponsor: Benegas Brothers Everest Expedition 2019
countries: Argentina, Canada, UK, Uruguay
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-19
smtdate: 2019-05-23
smttime: 0709
termdate: 2019-05-26
campsites: BC(19/04,5350m),C1(27/04,5900m),C2(08/05,6440m),C3(21/05,7000m),C4(22/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
accidents: Gaddi fell into a crevasse at 6800m (but not injured)
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  BC  19/04  5350m
  C1  27/04  5900m
  C2  08/05  6440m
  C3  21/05  7000m
  C4  22/05  7900m
  Smt 23/05  by Benegas, Vouloumanos, Krammer, Chedden Bhote Sherpa at 7:09 am
             and Decurgez, Lewthwaite, Lopsang Sherpa, Dawa Gualjen Sherpa, 
             Khangdu Sherpa at 9:20 am.

  Summit team left South Col at 10 pm; group got divided into 2 because of traffic. Balcony about 6 hours, held up because of 3 bodies being dragged down. From Balcony to summit 4 hours. Summited in 2 groups one at 7:09 am and the other at 9:20 am. Returned to South Col 12 pm and 2 pm.

  Stayed night at South Col. 24/05 whole team descended to C2 and 25/05 descended to Base Camp. 26/05 team flew BC to Kathmandu.

  Lawrence got to 6800m on 10/05. He wasn’t ready or prepared enough to summit.

  Gaddi got to 6800m on 10/05. He was very strong, but fell in a crevasse (whilst clipped to the fixed rope) and although he was uninjured on his return to BC he made the decision not to carry on with the climb.

  Sherpas:
    All had summited with Benegas previously.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used by members from C2 to summit to base of Lhotse
    Sherpas from C3 to summit to base of Lhotse face.


expid: EVER19117
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Mike Hamill
sponsor: Climbing the Seven Summits (CTSS) Everest Expedition 2019
countries: Argentina, Australia, Brazil, Ecuador, Germany, India, Japan, Kosovo, Qatar, Singapore, UK
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-15
smtdate: 2019-05-15
smttime: 1125
termdate: 2019-05-29
campsites: BC(15/04,5350m),C1(24/04,5900m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(13/05,7300m),C4(14/05,7900m),Smt(15,22-23,27)
agency: TAGnepal Trekking
routememo:
  BC  15/04  5350m
  C1  24/04  5900m
  C2  26/04  6400m
  C3  13/05  7300m
  C4  14/05  7900m
  Smt 15/05  by Wilkins, Dawa Tenji and Tendi Sherpa at 11:25 am
  Smt 22/05  by Walters, Graham, Richard Wilson, Morris, Baringer, Ishikawa, Peter 
             Wilson, Sunn Sim, Aditi Vaiya, Anuja Vaidya, Soares, Ktiri (went on 
             to Lhotse), Badar, Freire, Yamamoto plus Sherpas
  Smt 23/05  by Tendi (TAG), Ed Dhoring and 2 Sherpas at 6:30 am
  Smt 27/05  by Mrika Nikci, Arianit Nikci, Kulish, Montesinos, Grom, Ceppi plus
             Sherpas at 6 am.

  15/05 summit team and Dendi Sherpa left C4 at 9 pm. Weather fine, but as Wilkins had eaten too much tsampa for breakfast he had to sit down at the Balcony to digest for 2 hours. Dendi Sherpa got too cold and turned back at the Balcony. They spent about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 2 pm. On 16/05 C2 and on 17/05 they helicoptered from C2 to BC (aviation assisted).

  22/05 summit team left C4 between 5 pm and 6 pm on 21/05. As they had left so early they were not faced with the crowds. Straightforward climb. They stayed around 10 minutes on the summit. Morris, Peter Wilson, Richard Wilson descended to C2, where they arrived at 10 am. Soares helicoptered from C2 due to frostbite on his toes; Morris was helicoptered from C2 due to frostbite on his toes (he may lose the tip of his big toe)(both aviation assisted). All other members descended to C4, where they arrived at around 8 am.

  23/05 summit team left C4 at 9 pm. Straightforward climb. Big crowds on the summit. Spent about 15 minutes on the summit. Descended to C4, where they arrived at 11 am. 
  27/05 summit team left C4 at 9 pm. Straightforward climb, no winds, perfect day. They spent about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to C4 where they arrived at 10 am. Grom and Mrika and Arianit Nikci descended to C2.

  Lhotse Smt 23/05 by Kitri and Namgyal Sherpa at 8:30 am; Freire, Badar and Kami Sherpa at 6 am.

  After summiting Everest on 22/05 at 2:30 am, Lhotse summit team descended to Everest C4, where they arrived at 8:30 am. They stayed at Everest C4 and rested there. At 12:30 am they traversed from Everest C4 to Lhotse C4, where they had a short 10-minute break. They continued to the summit, stayed there for about 10 minutes and descended to C2, where they arrived at 4 pm. On 24/05 down to BC.

  Kulish's death: Kulish descended in 3 hours and was strong and in good spirits on the way down. He was fine for about four hours at C4. At 4 pm, Ceppi the guide went to check on Kulish in his tent and found him dead with his oxygen mask on. He did CPR for about 25 minutes with Prakash but no success. The body (packaged up) is still in the tent at the South col. On 28/05 Montesinos and Ceppi descended to C2 while the others descended to BC.

  On 29/05, everyone down at BC.

  Missirlian reached C1 early in rotation. He "could not find his why" and went home.

  Beaudoin did not climb on Everest at all. He left due to family issues.

  Tepekian reached C1 early in the rotation. He had a bad cough, tore some cartilage and left the expedition early.

  Gregory reached C2 26/04. He had severe AMS and left the expedition.

  Kalb (supposed to climb Lhotse) reached C2 and had AMS symptoms there and left the expedition early.

  Stewart reached C1 early in the trip. He had chest pain and AMS symptoms and left expedition.

  Oxygen stolen: 73 bottles of oxygen went missing on the 22 May along with tents. Hamill held team at C2, used their redundancy bottles and also had some help from Adventure Consultants with 14 bottles and Alpine Ascents. All of Hamill's 2nd team summited with no oxygen dramas at all and were on full flows so they managed to pull it together. 

  Team left BC on 29/05.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C2 to top to C2 by Graham, Walters, Aditi and Anuja Vaidya,
      Soares, Kulish, Dhoring, Wilkins, Badar
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C2 by all other members
    Taken and used from C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.


expid: EVER19118
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Dalip Shekhawat
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks International Everest Expedition 2019
countries: Botswana, France, India, Japan, Peru, UK, USA
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everest BC
smtdate: 2019-05-15
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(15-16,23/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  The Seven Summit Treks Everest expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-3 climbers each). Seven Summit Treks provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Victor Rimac (Peru)
  Victor Carcamo (Peru)

  Camps: BC(06/05,5350m),C2(18/05,6440m),C3(19/05,7100m),C4(20/05,7900m),xxx
  Left:  22/05/2019
  Hired: 2
  HPt:   7900m on 20/05 by Rimac, Carcamo, Ang Sumba Sherpa, Wangdi Sherpa
  Term:  Abandoned at C4 due to sight of dead body (Tomov) just below Lhotse C4.

  When Rimac and Carcamo (his client) went from C3 to C4, they saw a dead body on the fixed rope just below Lhotse C4 (probably Ivan Tomov). This seemed to have freaked out Carcamo and when they arrived at C4, Carcamo decided that he did not want to continue the climb. On 21/05, they descended to C2. On 22/05, they were picked up by helicopter from C2 to BC and then to Kathmandu.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C2 to C4 to C2 by members
    From bottom Lhotse Face to C4 to C2 by Sherpas

  Sherpas:
    Ang Sumba (Sumber) Sherpa
    Wangdi Sherpa (previously with Jagged Globe)


  Abdul Nasser Ayyappanthody (India)

  Camps: BC(23/04,5350m),C1(26/04),C2(27/04),C3(14/05),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(16/05)
  Left:  18/05/2019 (evacuated from C2)
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Summit by Abdul Nasser and unnamed Sherpa

  Nassar and Dukpa Sherpa started from C4 at about 7 pm on 15/05 after resting for a few hours upon arrival. Dukpa Sherpa didn't feel well that day and turned back about 2 hours before the summit (~8600m). Another Sherpa (Nassar can't remember name) joined him for the rest of ascent. They reached the summit at approx 9-10 am and stayed on the summit for 10 minutes. Nassar's watch didn't work so he is not sure about timings. Descending from summit, a storm came in. His Sherpa went ahead and left Nassar alone. Around 2 hours before he reached C4, Nassar ran out of oxygen and water. Very exhausted and struggling he reached C4 at 4-5 pm. He was flown from C2 to hospital in KTM on 18/05. He was treated for exhaustion, but has recovered now. 

  Oxygen: Taken and used from between C2-C3 to summit and down to C2.

  Hired: 
    [Ming] Dukpa Sherpa (to ~8600m)


  Mark Parella (USA)

  Parella and Pasang Dawa left C4 on 15 May around 7-7:30 pm, summited at 6:15 am on 16 May, then descended to C4 for a nap and on to C2 arriving about 8-8:30 pm. Pasang Dawa carried a small teddy bear (Muki Bear) to the summit.

  Parella left BC on 18 May.


  Dalip Shekhawat (Canada)

  Camps: BC(17/04,5350m),C1(29/04,6100m),C2(30/04,6500m),C3(14/05,7300m),
         C4(15/05,7950m),Smt(16/05)
  Left:  18/05/2019 (heli-evacuated from C2)
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Summit by Shekhawat and Mingma Thindu (Hapsi)

  On summit bid, Shekhawat arrived at C3 (7300m) on 14 May, rested for 8-9 hours, then continued on to C4 (7950m), rested for 4 hours before starting for the summit on the evening of 15 May at 9 pm. Shekhawat climbed with Mark Parella, Ray Khan and their Sherpas. They summited at 5 am on 16 May, stayed 5-10 minutes (cold and windy), then descended to C2. Shekhawat was heli-evacuated from C2 due to snowblindness.

  Oxygen: Shekhawat and Sherpa used from 7300m.


  Ameesha Chauhan (India)

  Camps: BC(12/04,5364m),C1(26/04,5943m),C2(27/04,6400m),C3(14/05,7162m),
         C4(15/05,7989m),Smt(23/05)
  Left:  25/05/2019 (by help from BC)

  Chauhan: I have climbed twice. 1st attempt was on 16 May, I reached South Summit at 8748m just short of the summit by 100m only as the Sherpa accompanying had exhausted his oxygen cyclinder so that we could not move forward. Then I took a decision to go back and climb again in 2nd open window.

  On 16 May I spent night in C4 and that day on my team two climbers dead (Ravi Thakar from India and Seamus Lawless from Ireland).

  Next day on 17 May I reached at C2 and reached base camp on 18 May. Two days I rested at base camp and on 20 May I left for my mission to climb Everest again.

  20 May to C2 and 21 May to C3.

  On 22 May I left for the final summit push from C4. During the ascent I came across corpses of several mountaineers. It was indeed very disturbing. On 23 May at 8:20 am I reached at top of the world heighest peak Everest. While descending I got stuck in a traffic jam at Hillary Step and unfortunately I got affected by frost bite in left toe/Fingers.

  I bounced back doubly charged to complete my mission on 23rd May, just within 7 days of the 1st attempt.


expid: EVER19119
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Ireland
leaders: Noel Hanna
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Everest Expedition 2019
countries: S Africa
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-19
smtdate: 2019-05-16
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2019-05-22
campsites: BC(19/04,5350m),C1(28/04,6000m),C2(29/04,6440m),C3(14/05,7100m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(16/05)
achievment: Khumalo is the 1st black African woman to summit Everest
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  19/04  5350m
  C1  28/04  6000m
  C2  29/04  6440m
  C3  14/05  7100m
  C4  15/05  7900m
  Smt 16/05  by Khumalo, Hanna, Copeland, Lawless, Temba Bhote, Dandu Bhote
             and one more at 8:30 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 8:45 pm on 15/05. It was reasonably quiet on the route, calm to start, but windy a bit later. Straightforward climb. They spent about 15 minutes on the summit. Just below the Hillary Step, Khumalo told Hanna that she was feeling weak and suddenly collapsed and rolled her eyes. Hanna took her Sherpa's oxygen, put it on Khumalo and she came to again. They found that her oxygen mask was frozen, which must have been the problem. They cleaned the mask and the team descended to the Balcony together. They changed oxygen bottles and as Lawless was feeling a bit altitude sick, but was still faster, he continued dowh with Tempa Bhote ahead of the group.

  Noel Hanna's account:

  Hanna was behind the girls coming down to C4, where they arrived at about 4 pm (Lawless must have arrived an hour earlier). When Hanna went to the tent he was sharing with Lawless on the way up, but it was occupied by someone else, who then left. Hanna thought that Lawless had gone to another tent. But then Temba came and told Hanna that Lawless had been missing after having gone to the toilet. Hanna told Copeland who like Lawless had an inReach. Lawless had must have sent a message to his wife to tell her to get in touch with Copeland, which she did. As the wife had forwarded the message, Hanna had the coordinates to where he was. It was about 5 pm and the weather was getting worse, but they still followed the GPS coordinates and could not find him.

  On 17/05 the team descended to C2, a Sherpa had found Lawless's rucksack. The harness was in the rucksack. On 18/05 down to BC.

  The family wanted Hanna to find the body (the Irish government guaranteed SST that the money would be paid for the search). On 22/05 they started the search in the evening on the bottom of the Lhotse face as they had found the rucksack there. Checked all the crevasses and could not find anything. At 11 pm on 22/05, Hanna and seven Sherpas ascended to C4 and searched for the body at C4, where they arrived at 7 am in the morning (Hanna a bit later). They started the search immediately. They found broken crampons and a broken oxygen mask. They searched until about 1 pm and descended to C2, where they arrived at C2. The traffic coming down was a nightmare. On 24/05 Hanna was picked up by heli at C2 and they flew to about 7200m and looked, but could not find him. They gave up at about 5 pm and flew to BC.

  Saray Khumalo’s account:

  The rest of the group arrived at C4 in the early afternoon. When they reached there they noticed that Lawless was not there. Temba, his Sherpa, said that he had gone to the toilet at C4 away. Temba must have gone into his tent when Lawless went to the toilet and did not notice that he did not come back. At the time of the interview, Hanna was still on the mountain looking for the body.

  On 17/05 they descended to C2; on 18/05 BC. The whole team stayed at BC until 22/05 to support Noel in the search and recovery of Lawless; however, so far they still have not found his body. 
  	
  Sherpas:
    Temba Bhote, Pawakhola-7, Makalu-Berun, 19/03/1982
    Dandu Bhote, Pawakhola-7, Makalu-Barun (Temba’s brother)

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 all members and Sherpas.


expid: EVER19123
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Sergi Mingote
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks International Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2019
countries: Brazil, Chile, India
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-23
smtdate: 2019-05-23
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2019-05-26
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-191-03)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
campsites:
  BC(23/04,5350m),C1(25/04,5900m),C2(26/04,6440m),C3(20/05,7200m),C4.Lhotse(21/05,7800m),C4(22/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)

routememo:
  BC  23/04  5350m
  C1  25/04  5900m
  C2  26/04  6440m
  C3  20/05  7200m
  C4  22/05  7900m
  Smt 23/05  by Fiamoncini (with O2), Angeli (with O2) and Mohr (without O2) at 
             11:30 am.

  On 18/05 Mohr and Mingote started a summit push for Everst and reached the bottom of the Lhotse Face, but Mingote was not feeling well and decided to abandon his Everest attempt. Fiamoncini had not joined that summit attempt as he needed another day to recover from his Lhotse attempt on 16/05.

  On 19/05 the Everest team started their second summit push. Fiamoncini and Mohr started from C4 at 8:30 pm. They were both without supplemental oxygen. When they reached 8300m, Fiamoncini put on oxygen as it was too hard without. Angeli had carried it for him. Mohr did not have a backup, but he did not need any. On his way up, Mohr felt tired, but always good. Mohr never had a headache and he was going slowly.

  They spent about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived 7 hours later. It was very hard as the fixed rope were buried in the snow. They reached C4 at 7 pm. On 24/05, they descended to C2 and 25/05 to BC.

  Everest and Lhotse teams left BC on 26/05 by foot.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used by O2-using Everest and Lhotse members from C2 to summit to base
      of Lhotse and Sherpas from C3 to summit to base of Lhotse face.


  Piyali Basak turned back on 23 May from Balcony due to altitude sickness and was heli-rescued from C2. She had planned to summit Everest and Lhotse on consecutive days.


expid: EVER19124
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Zhang Bao-Long
sponsor: Summit Experience Chinese Everest Expedition 2019
countries: Nepal
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-18
smtdate: 2019-05-22
smttime: 0500
termdate: 2019-05-24
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East
campsites: BC(18/04,5350m),C1(25/04),C2(26/04),C3(27/04),C4(21/05,7900m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Kaitu Expedition
routememo:
  BC  18/04
  C1  25/04
  C2  26/04
  C3  27/04
  C4  21/05
  Smt 22/05 by all members and Sherpas from 5 am to 9 am.

  Team started from C4 at 7:30 pm on 21 May and stood on top at 5-9 am on 22 May. Weather was good, not windy and sunny at that time. They stayed on the summit for about 10-15 minutes, then descended to C4 at 10 am-7 pm and stayed one night on 22 May. They arrived C2 at 5-7 pm on 23 May, and arrived at BC at 11 am-4 pm on 24 May.

  Mao Jian-Ong was very tired (no sickness) when he descended to 8400m; 3 Sherpas (Pemba Chhiri Sherpa, Nawang Tenjing Sherpa, Pur Bhadur Gurung) just dragged him down to C4. On the next day he walked by himself to C2 after 8 hours rest at C4. He flew to BC by heli from C2 on 24 May.

  And on the same day, 5 climbers (Yue Wei, Yu Shui, Mai Gui-Qing, Wang Hui, Yin Shuai) flew to BC from C2. They arrived at BC at 8 am on 24 May and came back to Ktm on the same day. The others walked down to BC and arrived at 11 am 24 May and came back to Ktm on the same day.

  Nima Namgyal Sherpa said Mao was the only rescue which happened in his team.

  Hired:
    Mingma Chhiri Sherpa, IFMGA Guide
    Vinayak Jay Malla, IFMGA Guide 
    Suman Gurung, Cameramen, IFMGA
    Ningma Dorjee Tamang, Guide
    Ang Pemba Sherpa, Guide
    Pasang Ngima Sherpa, Guide
    Pemba Chhiri Sherpa, Guide
    Pur Bhadur Gurung, Guide
    Iman Gurung, Guide
    Kanchha Nuru Sherpa, Guide
    Pasang Sona Sherpa, Guide
    Ang Dawa Sherpa, Guide 
    Bishnu Gurung (climber)
    Sonam Sherpa (climber, NOT summited)

  Oxygen: Taken and used C3-Summit-C3 by members and Sherpas.


expid: EVER19125
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Ru Zhi-Gang
sponsor: Kaitu Chinese Everest Expedition 2019
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everset BC
bcdate: 2019-04-20
smtdate: 2019-05-22
smttime: 0522
termdate: 2019-05-25
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East
campsites: BC(20/04),C1(27/04),C2(28/04),C3(30/04),C4(21/04),Smt(22/05)
agency: Kaitu Expedition
routememo:
  BC  20/04   
  C1  27/04 
  C2  28/04
  C3  30/04
  C4  21/05
  Smt 22/05 by Li Huang-Ying (5:22 am), Ru Zhi-Gang (7:26 am) and Guo Wen-Jing 
           (8:08 am).

  Team started from C4 at 7:30 pm on 21 May, and summited at 5:22-8:08 am on 22 May. Weather was very windy and sunny at that time. They stayed on the summit for about 10-15 minutes, then descended to C4 at 12-3:30 pm and stayed one night on 22 May.
  They arrived C2 at 3-5:40 pm on 23 May and BC at 1 pm on 24 May. All safe and smooth.

  On 22 May, Ru said an Indian woman fell down and almost hit him with her crampon at 8700m on the descent. When he arrived C4, he knew she had already died.
  	  
  Team left BC on 25/05 by heli.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used 6800m-Summit-C2 by members
    From C4-Summit-C4 by Sherpas

  Hired:
    Dawa Tashi Sherpa
    Ngawang Tenzing Sherpa
    Pema Chhiring Sherpa


expid: EVER19126
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Ma Li-Yamu
sponsor: First Chinese Women's Everest Expedition 2019
countries: India, Nepal
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-24
smtdate: 2019-05-22
smttime: 0300
termdate: 2019-05-25
campsites: BC(24/04),C2(01/05),C3(19/05),C4(20/05),Smt(22-23/05)
agency: Dreamers Destination Treks
routememo:
  Three Chinese women went through the 2014 avalanche, 2015 earthquake, 2016 Ma Li-Yamu summited Everest, 2017 Tsang Yin-Hung summited Everest, 2018 Sun Ning-Ning summited Manaslu; they have the idea of "First Chinese Women's Everest team" in 2019; one more male photographer will be in the team until BC.

  BC  24/04
  C1    /
  C2  01/05
  C3  19/05
  C4  20/05
  Smt 22/05 by Tsang Yin-Hung (Ada), Sun Ning-Ning, Ma Li-Yamu (Maizi).

  Team started from C4 at 6 pm (Tsang) and 9 pm (Ma and Sun). Tsang summited at 3 am, Sun summited at 9:07 am and Ma summited at 9:46 am. They stayed on the summit for about 10-15 minutes. Weather was not windy and clear, sunny high up the mountain.

  They got back to BC at 1:30-2:25 pm on 24 May and flew BC to Ktm by heli on 25 May.

  Oxygen: Taken and used C2-Summit-C2 (Members); C3-Summit-C3 (Sherpas).

  Other peaks: Nangkartshang Gompa (S) 5083m


  Note from Chinese team:

  Ma said the dead Indian female climber Kalpana Dash schedule was always one day behind Ma's team. Kalpana Dash walked very slow on the way. She summited and became so sick and couldn't move anymore at Hillary Step (8760m). Pemba Dorji Sherpa (Phurba's big brother) was her guide.

  Zhou Tianmin (from Dolma Outdoor) and Ms. Kalpana Dash are not clients of Dreamers Destination Treks originally and we are not responsible for their climbing management part and appointing Sherpas. They shared permit with us and we provided base camp service only.

  Note: Media reports state that Dashi died near the Balcony (8400m).

  Report from Zhou Tian-Min:

  BC  16/04 
  C1  01/05 
  C2  02/05 
  C3  20/05
  C4  21/05
  Smt 22/05 by all members, all Sherpas

  Started at C4 at 8 pm. Summit at 8:15 am by Tianmin and his Sherpas Kaji and Pasang. Weather was good; after summit weather deteriorated and some clouds. Got back to C4 at 5 pm. 

  Tsang Yin-Hung summit at 3 am with Phurba Tenzing. 
  Sun Ning-Ning and Mingma Nuru Sherpa summit at 9:07 am. 
  Ma Li-Yamu and Phurba Thile Sherpa summit at 9:46 am
  	
  Zhou left BC on 25/05 heli to KTM.

  Other peaks: Lobuche Peak by Zhou Tianmin 

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used by members from C3 to summit and down to C3
    By Sherpa from C4 to summit and down to C4

  Hired: 
    Kaji Sherpa
    Pasang Sherpa
    Phurba Thile Sherpa
    Phurba Tenzing Sherpa
    Mingma Nuru Sherpa


expid: EVER19127
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Li Yuan
sponsor: Aishangfeng Adventure Everest Expedition 2019
countries: Taiwan, USA
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-07
smtdate: 2019-05-22
smttime: 0044
campsites: BC(07/04),C1(30/04),C2(30/04),C3(20/05),C4(21/05),Smt(22,27/05)
agency: Pioneer Adventure
routememo:
  BC  07/04  He Yulong, Li Yuan, Khai Van Nguyen
  C1  30/04  He Yulong, Li Yuan, Khai Van Nguyen
  C2  30/04  He Yulong, Khai Van Nguyen
      01/05  Li Yuan
  C3  20/05  He Yulong and Khai Van Nguyen
      22/05  Li Yuan, Chan
  C4  21/05  He Yulong and Khai Van Nguyen
      23/05  Li Yuan, Chan
  Smt 22/05  by He Yulong
  Smt 27/05  by Li Yuan and Chan

  Chan Chiao-Yu (Tri-fish) summited Makalu before Everest summit.

  He Yulong started with other 6 climbers (except Li Yuan and Chan) and 8 Sherpas from BC at 2:30 am on 18 May. They arrived C2 at 10:30 am on 18 May and stayed C2 for 2 nights. C2 to C3 7:30-11:30 am on 20 May and stayed at C3 for 1 night. C3 to C4 6 am-1:30 pm and stayed 5 hours. They started summit push at 7:30 pm and summited at 6:03 am on 22 May, stayed on the top for 15 mins; it was windy and sunny.

  Team descended at C4 at 12 pm and rested for 1 hour, started from 1:30 pm and arrived at 6:30 pm to C2. They stayed one night and set off at 8 am to BC at 1 pm.
  They flew BC-LKL by heli, stayed in LKL for 1 night and back to KTM 10:30 am by heli.

  Li Yuan and Chan started from BC at 4:30 am on 21 May and arrived C2 at 3:30 pm on 21 May. Weather was good and no wind at all. They both reached C3 at 3:30 pm on 22 May in 4h:30m. They started from C3 to C4 from 6:15 am to 12:40 pm on 23 May.

  They were ready for everything, but the summit push plan was canceled due to the terrible winds and colder weather that afternoon; their Sherpas told them there were 3 climbers that had already died that day.

  They descended the next day morning and arrived C2 at 2 pm on 24 May. They checked the weather forecast and determined that the next window should be 27-29 May, so they waited C2 for one more day.
   
  They started from C2 at 2:30 am and touched C3 at 6 am. They arrived C4 at 11:20 am. They rested at C4, the weather was a bit snowing and windy, they waited until 7 pm when the wind stopped.

  They both started at 7:30 pm from C4, stood on the top at 3:10 am and stayed 10 mins. Two climbers and three Sherpas all summitted together. Weather was good, clear and a bit windy.

  They both descended to C2 at 4 pm on 27 May and stayed there for one night. They reached BC from 7:30 am to 12 pm on 28 May and flew back to LKL on 28 May. Due to the foggy weather, they flew back to KTM by heli in the next day on 29 May.

  Jiang Yuan didn't climb and left BC on 7 May due to personal reasons.

  Left BC on: 25/05 He Yulong, Khai Van Nguyen
              28/05 Li Yuan, Chan

  Members:
    Li Yuan, Chan Chiao-Yu (Tri-fish), He Yu-Long, Jiang Yuan, Khai Van Nguyen

  Oxygen: Taken and used C3-Summit-C3 (Members); C4-Summit-C3 (Sherpas)

  Hired:
    Temba Rita Sherpa --Guide
    Lakpa Sherpa --Guide
    Mingma [Dorchi] Sherpa --Guide (he works as a porter, but summits with climbers)
    Tenjing Pasang Sherpa (He Yulong guide)


expid: EVER19128
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Pakistan
leaders: Mirza Ali Baig
sponsor: Pioneer Everest Expedition 2019
countries: India, Poland, Singapore, USA
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-18
smtdate: 2019-05-22
smttime: 0216
termdate: 2019-05-23
campsites: BC(18/04,5350m),C1(29/04,6086m),C2(30/03,6400m),C3(20/05,7100m),C4(21/05,7900m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Pioneer Adventure
routememo:
  Report of Mirza Ali Baig:

  BC  18/04  5350m
  C1  29/04  6086m
  C2  30/04  6440m
  C3  20/05  7100m
  C4  21/05  7900m (12:30)
  Smt 22/05  by Ali Baig and Pemba Sherpa Lama at 2:16 am.

  Ali Baig and Pemba Sherpa left C4 at 6:30 pm on 21/05. Milind Raskhar, Don Cash, Khai from the US (Vietnam) and the Indian Brothers (Mahendra and Hitendra Mahajan) also left around the same time.

  At the beginning Ali Baig and Pemba had a big queue in front of them until the Balcony, however, they overtook most of them. From the Hillary Step they were the first people. It was very cold and windy. They stayed about 10 to 15 minutes on the summit (Lakpa Tendu Sherpa and Dawa Sherpa from Survey team, Chhiring Jambu from a different team arrived shortly after them) and they descended to C4, where they arrived at 6:30 am. On the way down, they had to wait for the crowds to come up for nearly three hours. Two hours at the Hillary Step only. 

  When they reached the South Summit, Ali Baig noticed that his eyes were hurting and he could not see properly. He had probably wind burn as he was not wearing glasses on the ascent. The changed oxygen at the South Summit and rested a bit. At the rock section below the South Summit they were held up again for about half an hour.

  At C4 they rested for a short time. Ali Baig put black tea bags on his eyes and then they continued to C4 with very bad eyesight. They arrived at C2 at 2 pm. Ali Baig’s eyes got worse and they organised a helicopter rescue from C2. They were picked up by heli on 23/05 at 8 am. He went to ER at BC and was then transferred to Kathmandu to CIWEC, where he spent one night. His eyes are Ok now even though he still cannot face sunlight.

  Other members:

  Magdalena from Poland did not summit Lhotse. She never left BC as she had frostbite on her toes.

  Khai from USA did not summit. He turned around below the Balcony on 22/05. He was slow and tired.

  Don Cash summited on 22/05 (after Ali Baig). He collapsed on the summit. Lhakpa Nurbu and Pasang Tenji did CPR on him and revived him. They brought him down to about 8760m where he died. They left his body there. 

  Mahendra and Hitendra Mahajan, Pasang Sherpa and another Sherpa (who was on Makalu with Magdalena) summited on 22/05, quite late at around 9 am. Hitendra Mahajan was very tired when he came down from the summit. 

  Jeremy Tong and one Sherpa from Singapore summited on 22/05.

  Talung from China and Pasang Ji Sherpa summited on 22/05.

  One Taiwan lady (Chan Chiao-Yu) and one Chinese man (Li Yuan) together with Lhakpa and Mingma Dorje (the directors fo Pioneer) were going for the summit on 24/05. The never left the South Col as the weather was bad.

  Baig left BC (from C2) on 23/05.
  	
  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Ali Baig and Pemba.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Sherpa Lama, Makalu-4, Sankhuwasabha, 19/06/1989
      (summited Makalu on 15/05 with Mohite from India)


  Report of Mahendra Mahajan:

  BC  18/04  5300m
  C1  29/04  6000m
  C2  30/04  6500m
  C3  20/05  7400m
  C4  21/05  7900m
  Smt 22/05  by Mahendra, Hitendra, Dawa and Pastemba.

  Mahendra and Dawa started from C4 at 7 pm of 21 May, reached summit at 5 am of 22 May, stayed there about 30 minutes and back to C4 at 1 pm, and spent the night there. On 23 spent the night at C2 and next day 24 May heli-lifted from there to BC, then to Lukla.

  Oxygen: Members and two Sherpas C3-summit-C2.

  Note form Mahendra:

  We used oxygen after reaching C3 in the afternoon. While sleeping also we used it at minimal flow rate. Thereafter up to summit and ciming back/descending to C2.

  Dawa Italy was the name of my Sherpa. Hitendra's Sherpa was Pastemba. 

  I developed severe eye burning after descending to C4. My googles got frosted with ice on summit after I shifted them to forehead for some time to click photos at summit. So had to use my ski googles, which blocks the near vision, so used them on and of. Burning was very severe, so slept at C4. Next morning the burning reduced 50%, and could descend down to C2 by evening. Slept at night in C2. Next day took helicopter from C2 to EBC to Lukla.


expid: EVER19129
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Romania
leaders: Adrian Laza
sponsor: Romanian Everest Expedition 2019
approach: Lukla->Everest BC by heli
bcdate: 2019-05-10
smtdate: 2019-05-16
smttime: 0445
termdate: 2019-05-18
othersmts: Attempted Ratna Chuli (RATC-191-01)
campsites: BC(10/05,5350m),C2(13/05,6500m),C3(14/05,7300m),C4(15/05,7950m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Pioneer Adventure
routememo:
  BC  10/05  5300m
  C1   not used
  C2  13/05  6500m
  C3  14/05  7300m
  C4  15/05  South Col
  Smt 16/05  by Laza, Dawa (of Peme) and Chhiring Lama (of Pioneer).

  Laza started his summit push with Dawa and Chhiring Lama from C4 at 7:15 pm of 15 May. They reached summit at 4:45 am of 16 May and stayed on summit for about 30 minutes. They returned C4 around 9:15 am, then went down to C2 where they arrived at 3:30 pm. Next day 17 May to BC. Summit day weather was good, but after 5 am it was foggy and windy. The Laza team met Kenton Cool with his client with two Sherpas descending from summit at the Hillary Step. Also, they met a Swedish climber with Sherpa descending from summit. Laza team were the third ones to summit on that day.

  Left BC on 18 May by Heli.

  Oxygen: C3-summit-C3 by member and Sherpas.

  Laza note: I do not know if this sets a record: BC–summit-BC in 8 days; Summit push elapse time 5 days.


expid: EVER19130
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Wang Zhi-Rong
sponsor: Seven Brothers Chinese Everest Expedition 2019
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-17
smtdate: 2019-05-16
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2019-05-18
campsites: BC(17/04),C1(25/04),C2(29/04),C3(01/05),C4(15/05),Smt(16/05)
accidents: Zeng Jiu-Sheng and Luo Ji frostbite on hands.
agency: Seven Brothers Summiters (Ascent Himalayas pmt)
routememo:
  BC  17/04
  C1  25/04
  C2  29/04
  C3  01/05
  C4  15/05
  Smt 16/05 by Chen Li-Hang, Wang Chong, Zeng Jiu-Sheng, Mingmar Sherpa, 
            Jenjen Lama, Samden Sherpa.

  Team started from C4 at 9 pm. Weather was not very good, cold and windy.

  Chen summited at 9:30 am and stayed on the summit for about 10 minutes, it was very windy high up the mountain. Lihang back to C4 at 5 pm.

  Wang Chong summited around 8:30 am, back to C4 at around 3 pm.

  Zeng summited around 10:30 am. Zeng got problem with oxygen on the summit and his Sherpa gave him more oxygen. He got back to C4 at maybe 6 pm. He was carried down from C3 to C2 by 4-5 Sherpas on 18/05. From C2 to Ktm by heli on 18/05.

  Other Chinese members reached highpoint at ~8600m. They were cold and Sherpas said no good weather and big wind coming, so they turned around at maybe 6 or 7 am.

  Member Luo Ji frostbite at 9 fingers, black fingers. He was carried from C3 to C2 by Sherpas on 18/05. Rescued by heli to KTM from C2 on 18/05.

  Zeng Jiu Sheng frostbite on hands. He was rescued from 8500m to C4 by Sherpas. It took 9 hours to carry him down. Walked by himself from C4 to C3. Stayed at C3 for the night on 17/05. On 18/05 evacuated with Luo Ji from C2.

  Chen Li-Hang had planned to climb Lhotse as well but only climbed Everest because he hurt his knee on Everest.

  Hired:
    Darinji Sherpa (8000m)
    Thundu Sherpa (8600m)
    Mingmar Sherpa (S)
    Jenjen Lama (S)
    Sange Sherpa (8600m)
    Samden Sherpa (S)

  Rest of team returned to Ktm on 18/05 by heli from BC.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used by members and Sherpas from C3 to summit/HPt and down to C3.


expid: EVER19131
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Matthias Janssen
sponsor: Das Grosse Draussen Teil 3
approach: Heli to Surke, Surke->Renjo La->Cho La->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-20
smtdate: 2019-05-16
termdate: 2019-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to coldness
campsites: BC(20/04,5350m),C1(25/04),C2(30/04),C3(15/05),C4(16/05,7950m),xxx(16/05,8300m)
agency: Seven Brothers Summiters
routememo:
  BC
  C1  25/04
  C2  30/04
  C3  15/05
  C4  16/05  (few hours rest before summit push)
  HPt 16/05  8300m by Janssen, Chandra Shor Rai

  Climb abandoned due to cold.

  Started from C4 at 8:30 pm. Reached high-point at 8300m at 11 pm. Janssen was too cold and he was afraid of frostbite. His fingers and toes were numb and he decided to turn around. Back to C4 at midnight. They rested a few hours at C4, then down to C2 on 17/05. Left BC on 21/05.

  Oxygen: Taken and used by member and Sherpa from C3 to HPt to C3.

  Hired:
    Chandra Shor Rai


expid: EVER19132
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Mingma Gyalje Sherpa
sponsor: Imagine Nepal Everest Expedition 2019
countries: Canada, China, Greece, India
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-13
smtdate: 2019-05-20
smttime: 0715
termdate: 2019-05-23
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East (all members); Lhotse on 14 May by Flampouri
campsites: BC(13/04,5300m),C1(25/04,5900m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(18/05,7200m),C4(19/05,7900m),Smt(20-21/05)
agency: Imagine Nepal
routememo:
  Summit team (7 climbers with 7 Sherpas) started summit push at 9:30 pm on 19 May, it was windy and they were the only team on the mountain at that time. 6 climbers and their Sherpas summited on 20 May.

  One Chinese climber Li Xiao-Lin and his Sherpa (Mingma Gyalje) touched 8300m (below Balcony) then descended back to C4 on 20 May due to Mingma Gyalje's sickness (chest pain). They both stayed there for few hours, then did a summit push again. They both summited at 7:15 am one day delayed on 21 May. They stood on the top for 5-10 mins; it was more windy than the day before.

  Archontidou's regulator and mask didn't work properly near top on 20 May, so her Sherpa gave his set to her. The same thing happened to Wang Xue-Feng at 8300m as well.

  Team descended to C4 at 10:45 am for one night and stayed at C2 for one night. They arrived BC on 23 May. Archontidou summited Everest at 8 am on 20 May and reached BC at 11:45 am (1h later than Christina) as the team's last member on 23 May. On the same day they flew from BC to Lukla by heli and back to KTM by flight.

  Oxygen: C3-Summit-C3 (Members and Sherpas)

  Christina Flampouri summited Lhotse at 9:45 pm on 14 May.

achievment:
  Christina Flampouri: 1st Greek woman on Everest, 1st Greek summit 2x8000m peaks in 6 days; Vasiliki Archontidou: 1st Greek mother


expid: EVER19133
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Kishor Dhankude
sponsor: Transcend Adventure Everest Expedition 2019
approach: Lukla->Namche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-05-04
smtdate: 2019-05-22
smttime: 0845
campsites: BC(04/05,5380m),C1(6100m),C2(6400m),C3(20/05,7200m),C4(21/05,7950m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Arun Treks (Snowy Horizon pmt)
routememo:
  Nahida Manzoor submitted a fake summit photo to the Ministry of Tourism to get her summit certificate.


expid: EVER19134
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Thomas Becker
sponsor: American Everest Expedition 2019
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-20
smtdate: 2019-05-23
smttime: 1020
termdate: 2019-05-27
campsites: BC(20/04,5300m),C1(01/05,6100m),C2(08/05,6500m),C3(21/95,7200m),C4(22/05,790m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Himalayan Traverse Adventure (Ever Quest pmt)
routememo:
  BC  20/04  5300m
  C1  05/01  6100m
  C2  08/05  6500m
  C3  21/05  7200m
  C4  05/22  7900m
  Smt 23/05  by Becker, Wehrly and NC Sherpa at 10:20 am.

  Summit day: Oxygen stolen at C4, so only 3 of them were able to go up (not enough for all 4 members + hired). Would have to deal with a smaller quantity of oxygen than usual (NC and Dawa Hillary had put 16 bottles at C4). Wehrly and Becker carried 1 bottle from C2, starting using it from C3.

  May 22: “slept” at C4, starting at 9 pm for summit push.
  May 23: summit at 10:20 am, back to C4 between 5 and 6 pm, where they slept with their Sherpas.
  May 24: from C4 to C3. On descent, group met one of their Sherpas going up to them (called Dawa Hillary Sherpa, because had got to Hillary Step previously). Karma was Ok, but NC was exhausted and had snowblindness. Karma and NC slept at C3, when Wehrly went down to C2 with Dawa Hillary. Becker had snowblindness, so got heli-rescued from C3 to Lukla on that day, then next morning to KTM (Ciwec).
  May 25: Wehrly C2 to BC. Dawa Hillary to C4 and back to C2.
  May 26: Wehrly stayed BC. Dawa Hillary stayed at C2.
  May 27: Wehrly left BC by helicopter to KTM.

  NC and Karma went back to C2 in the morning and were supposed to come back in the afternoon. However Dawa Hillary fell in a crevasse (a 100-ft fall) after a ladder had broken in the icefall on his descent. Dawa Hillary got heli-rescued with help of his colleagues and other Sherpas, so could be evacuated straight to KTM at the Norwic hospital on that day.

  Bleeker high-point little after C3 with frosbite on May 22nd. Back to C2 on the same day, then heli-rescued from C2 to Lukla. Night then to KTM at CIWEC for basic cares. Bad enough for a rescue. She had to turn around or she would have lost her fingers according to Sherpas.

  Hired:
    Karma Sherpa (with Wehrly) to South Col/C4 max (oxygen not used)
    NC Sherpa (facebook) (with Becker) to summit with both Wehrly and Becker. First
      without them, then waiting for them at South Summit and finishing all together.
      Oxygen taken from C4 to smt to C4
    Dawa Sherpa (with Bleeker): HPt stopped at little above C3 (owner of the
      company) (oxygen not used)
    Dawa "Hillary" Sherpa: High-point at South Col this time. Wasn't meant to 
      climb to the top, or to climb as a "personal" Sherpa (oxygen not used).

  Team left BC on May 27.

  Oxygen: taken from C3 to SMT back to somwhere above C4. Ran out of oxygen on descent (below the Balcony for Wehrly).

accidents:
  Slight frostbite for Becker (extreme little fingers of hands); frostbite for Bleeker; snowblindess for NC Sherpa and Becker


expid: EVER19135
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Chatur Tamang
sponsor: Cha-Tours Treks & Expeditions Everest-Lhotse 2019
countries: India
approach: BC by helicopter
bcdate: 2019-04-15
smtdate: 2019-05-22
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2019-05-25
campsites: BC(15/04,5350m),C1(23/04,6000m),C2(24/04,6500m),C3(20/05,7300m),C4(21/05,7900m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Chatours Treks (Pioneer Adventure pmt)
routememo:
  BC  15/04  5350m
  C1  23/04  6000m
  C2  24/04  6500m
  C3  20/05  7300m
  C4  21/05  7900m
  Smt 22/05  by Chatur Tamang, Kasana, Buddha Singh Tamang, Jeb Tamang, 
             Nuru Gyalzen Sherpa at 10:30 am.

  Team left C4 at 8:30 pm on 21/05. They hit the crowds on the Balcony. Lot of waiting (3 hrs), especially on the Hillary Step. Straightforward climb. They spent about 40 min on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 5 pm. On 23/05 they descended to C2 and on 24/05 BC. Team left BC on 25/05 by foot.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Kasana, Chatur Tamang and Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Jeb Bahadur Tamang, 2044/08/02, Kanku-4, Solu 
    Buddha Singh Tamang, 25/11/1972, Kanku-4, Solu 
    Nuru Gyalzen Sherpa, 22/08/1995, Namche-2


expid: EVER19136
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Gabriel Filippi
sponsor: Triple Crown Everest-Lhotse-Nuptse Expedition 2019
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-10
smtdate: 2019-05-15
smttime: 1111
termdate: 2019-05-19
campsites: BC(10/04,5350m),C1(28/04,6000m),C2(29/04,6440m),C3(13/05,7100m),C4(14/04,7900m),Smt(15/05)
agency: Happy Feet Mountaineers (Seven Summit Treks pmt)
routememo:
  BC  10/04  5350m
  C1  28/04  6000m
  C2  29/04  6440m
  C3  13/05  7100m
  C4  14/05  7900m
  EVER Smt 15/05 by Filippi, Sonam Sherpa at 11:11 am
  LHOT Smt 16/05 by Filippi, Sonam Sherpa at 10:45 am.

  Filippi and Sonam left C4 at 1:30 am. There were hardly any people on the route. Straightforward climb. They spent about 10 minutes on the summit. It was very cold and windy. They descended to C4 where they arrived at 4 pm.

  On 16/05, the team left C4 at 3 am. They descended to Lhotse C4, where they arrived at 3:45 am. Then up to Lhotse. He passed a few people (Chatur Tamang). At about 200m below the summit, they came across an Italian climber, who was a bit confused and told them he did not have a Sherpa or oxygen. Filippi thought that he needed a rescue, but his Sherpa arrived. When they reached the summit, they met Ivan Tomov, who later died at C4 in his tent. Filippi thought he was acting a bit weird. Sonam and Filippi stayed on the summit for about 15 minutes and when they went down, they asked Tomov to come down with them, but he said he wanted to wait for his team member. This was the last time Filippi saw Tomov.

  They descended to C2, where they arrived 4 pm. On 17/05 BC and left BC on 19/05.

  Eric Contant was intending to climb Lhotse only reached 6400m on the first rotation. He had troubles with his eye and left BC.

  Filippi was intending to do the Triple Crown, but abandoned the idea on 16/05 because of lack of equipment.

  Sherpa:
   Sonam Sherpa, Taksindu, 18/04/1998

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top of Everest to top of Lhotse and down to C3 by 
      Filippi; from C4 to top of Everest to top of Lhotse to C3 by Sherpa.


expid: EVER19137
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Damien Francois
sponsor: Ever Quest Everest Expedition 2019
countries: Nepal, Singapore, UK
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-06
smtdate: 2019-05-23
smttime: 1115
termdate: 2019-05-25
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East on 12 April
campsites: BC(06/04,5330m),C1(18/04,6050m),C2(27/04,6500m),C3(21/05,7100m),C4(22/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Ever Quest Expeditions
routememo:
  BC  06/04  5330m
  C1  18/04  6050m
  C2  27/04  6500m
  C2  21/05  7100m
  C4  22/05  7900m
  Smt 23/05  by 3 members and 4 Sherpas.

  Summit push : 
  May 18: BC to C1
  May 19-20: stayed at C2
  May 21: C2 to C3
  May 22: started at 9 pm from C4 for summit push
  May 23: summited at various times between 8 and 10 am, back to C4 at 6 pm. 
          Windy on top. [Smt time at 11:15 as per Ministry and Himalayan Times]
  May 24: C4 to C2
  May 25: C2 to CB. BC to KTM by helicopter flight.

  Hired (all SMT): 
    Passang Bhote (with Bala)
    Temba Bhote (with Francois)
    Jamling Bhote (also with Bala)
    Rinjin Bhote (with Nisha Bhote)

  Oxygen: Taken from C3 to summit to C3 for members and hired.

  Simon Greaves left BC on May 7th due to personal problems. HPt as high as C2 where he spent 3 nights with rest of the group on April 27, 28 and 29 during second rotation. Went to up 6900m on day trip.


expid: EVER19138
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Rahul Inamdar
sponsor: Peak Promotion Everest Expedition 2019
countries: Denmark, USA
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-14
smtdate: 2019-05-16
smttime: 0815
termdate: 2019-05-26
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (by McClaren)
campsites: BC(14/04),C1(19/04),C2(26/04),C3(20/05),C4(21/05),Smt(16,23/05)
achievment: Kragh first Danish on Everest without supplemental oxygen
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  BC  14/04
  C1  19/04
  C2  26/04
  C3  28/05
  C4  21/05
  Smt 16/05  by McClaren and Nima Sherpa at 8:15 am.
  Smt 23/05  by Inamdar and Kragh with Sherpas.

  Inamdar on summit at 5:23 am with his two Sherpas Kipa and Wangda. They started from C4 at 5 pm on 22/05. Back to C4 at 1:15 pm and next day to C2. Inamdar stayed on the summit for 40-45 minutes. A lot of people were coming up. Very good conditions, almost no wind.

  Kragh summited without oxygen at 6:43 am on 23/05 with his Sherpa Karma. 23/05 not as crowded as 22/05. Maybe 70-80 people going for summit on 23/05. He needed just over 11 hours from C4 to summit. 16 hours round trip C4 to C4. He started from C4 at 7:15 pm. Back to C4 at 11:30 am. Back to C2 the same day. Reached C2 around 5 pm. Good conditions, wind was blowing in C4 on 22/05. Then it settled down in evening. Very clear, cold night. Some wind in the morning on summit ridge. When he got back to C4 a lot of wind. Kragh stayed on the summit for 5-10 minutes. He is the first Danish on Everest without supplemental oxygen.

  Jaahnavi Sriperambuduru was rescued from C2 by helicopter on 20/05 because of exhaustion. High point C2.

  Nihal Bagwan on the other Peak Promotion team died at C4 after his summit on 23/05 at 9 pm. He died of exhaustion and he was moving too slow and was rescued from the Balcony area. His Sherpa Lakpa got bad frostbite on left hand.

  Team left BC on 26/05.

  Return KTM:
    McClaren and Inamdar on 26/05 by heli BC to KTM
    Kragh on 29/05 by heli from Lukla 

  Oxygen: taken and used from C3 to summit and down to little below C3 by Inamdar; not used by Kragh; taken and used from in between C3-C4 to summit and down to C3 by McClaren; used by Kipa and Wangda Sherpa from Yellow Band to summit to C3, by Kharma Gyaltzen Sherpa from C3 to summit and down to C3.

  Hired:
    Kipa Sherpa (S)
    Wangda Sherpa (S)
    Kharma Gyaltzen Sherpa (S), from Makalu region
    Ngima [Nuru] Sherpa (S)
    Dorjee Sherpa (highpoint C2)


expid: EVER19139
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: John All
sponsor: Environmental Research Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2019
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everest
bcdate: 2019-04-16
smtdate: 2019-05-22
termdate: 2019-05-28
campsites: BC(16/04,5350m),C1(29/04,5900m),C2(30/04,6440m),xxx(22/05,7800m)
agency: Himalayan Ecstasy Treks
routememo:
  This was a research expedition. Team walked in via the Zatra La, climbed Mera Peak, went back via the Zatra La, Gokyo, Cho La and then EBC. The aim of the research to study climate change and the effect it has on the local people and the fauna. It is a repeat study of John All’s study in 2009 and 2010. There were also students of Tribuvhan University on the research trip.

  Dhruba Bista who was with the Everest team was at C4 waiting for the Lhotse team as he was intending to climb Everest on 24/05. When they came back Dhruba Bista was feeling bad and had abandoned his attempt to climb Everest. On 24/05, the whole team including Dhruba went down to C3 and when Dhruba sat down to have a rest he closed his eyes and never woke up. All was already on his way to C2 when he died. On 26/05 back to BC.

  Morgan and Holmes intended Everest; John All, Graham Wickowski and Chris Dunn intended to climb Lhotse.

  Holmes reached C3 (7100m) on 21/05. He was on his summit push for Everest, but decided to abandon due to asthma and bronchitis. He could not breathe and descended to C2. He was picked up from C2 by helicopter and was taken to Lukla hospital.   

  Morgan Scott reached 6800m at the bottom of the Lhotse Face on 8/05. He had upper respiratory infection and abandoned expedition.

  Dhruba Bista was not really a high-altitude worker. He got a good deal with the company, but he basically attempted Everest as a client.


expid: EVER19141
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Clayton Matthews
sponsor: Satori Adventures Everest Expedition 2019
countries: Georgia, India, S Korea, UK, USA
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-12
smtdate: 2019-05-16
smttime: 0620
termdate: 2019-05-21
campsites: BC(12/04,5400m),C1(21/04,6000m),C2(22/04,6400m),C3(14/05,7100m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Satori Adventures
routememo:
  BC  12/04  5400m
  C1  21/04  6000m
  C2  22/04  6400m (for Matthews, 01/05 for others)
  C3  14/05  7100m
  C4  15/05  7900m (massive garbage place!)
  Smt 16/05  by Tsintsadze, Maher, Matthews, Kakka and 7 Sherpas.

  May 15 started at 8-9 pm from C4; summit on the day after at 6:20 am (Matthews), 7 am (Deavan), 9:02 am (Kakka), 9:30 am (Tsintsadze). All back to C4 and slept there due to bad weather; next day down to C2; day after to BC.

  Members:
    Clayon Matthews summited May 16, descended to BC from C4 on May 17
    Avtandil Tsintsadze summited May 16, descended to C2 from C4 on May 17
    Dean Maher summited May 16, descended to C2 from C4 on May 17
    Srinivasa Saripalli touched C2 on April 22 as high point. Was sick 
      from very beginning of the expedition, went back to KTM to recover for a
      while, then back to the mountain. Eventually left BC on same day with Dean 
      Maher on May 18.
    Sirak Seyoum (both nationalities USA/Ethiopia) passed the South Summit, down to
      the col below where he stopped due to dehydration.
    Jayesh Morvankar high point slightly higher than C3 on May 15. Left BC on ?
    Keval Hiren Kakka summited on May 16, then 5 days later summited Lhotse on 
      May 21; down to C2 in between. Left BC on ? Back to KTM on May 25.

  Left BC: May 18 Saripalli, May 19 Matthews, May 21 for Tsintsadze and Seyoum.

  Oxygen: from C3 to summit to C2.

  Everest Sherpas: 7 Sherpas, with 1 Sherpa for each on summit push.
    Pasang Namgel Sherpa
    Furte Sherpa
    Tendi Sherpa
    Mingma Temba Sherpa
    Lakpa Tashi Sherpa
    Dawa Temba Sherpa (with Maher)
    Pemba Ongdi Sherpa (with Kakka)


  Korea Gangwon Everest Exp 2019 (Hoping for the Unification of Korea)  

  Lee Kil-Bong and Lee Dong-Uk were Trekking Camp Nepal clients on the Satori Adventures permit.


  Dean Maher report:

  BC  17/04  5300m
  C1  25/04  5800m
  C2  26/04  6300m
  C3  14/05  7300m
  C4  15/05  7900m
  Smt 16/05  by Maher with Dawa Temba Sherpa.

  Thought to try for Manaslu, then Lhotse. Once at Everest BC thought he might be able to try for Everest, feeling fitter than many candidates. Had first a permit for Lhotse then switched to Everest a week before the summit push.

  Summit day on 15th started at 9:30 pm (5 to 10 min maximum of waiting at various stops), summited at 7:30 am on the 16th, then back to C4 on that day; on 17th back to C2. On 18th got evacuated from C2 to KTM to CIWEC Hospital.

  Minor frostbites contracted during summit night/push. Eventually has 1st degree for 3 toes, 2nd degree for 1 toe.

  1st fully vegan summit. No down at all in the gloves, jacket, etc.

  Found the camps relatively clean except C4.

  Everest North next year or Manaslu without oxygen?


  Keval Kakka report:

  BC  12/04  5400m
  C1  21/04  6000m
  C2  01/05  6400m
  C3  14/05  7100m
  C4  15/05  7900m
  Smt 16/05  by Kakka and Pemba Ongdi Sherpa
  Smt 21/05  by Kakka and Nima Sherpa and Pemba Tashi Sherpa.

  Summit day:
  May 15: started at night at c10:30-10:45 pm.
  May 16: from Balcony got windy at night with sprindrifts, not much visibility.
          Light broke on below the south summit with a little accalmy, then from 
          South Summit got windy again until the smt. Cold. Smt of EVER reached at 
          9:02 am. Cold on summit, but Ok. Back to C4 at c1 pm.
  May 17: from C4 to C2.
  May 18: C2, weather not good. Aimed for Lhotse, but had to wait for weather to
          improve.
  May 19: same as May 18. 
  May 20: went from C2 to C4 of Lhotse.
  May 21: started at 1 am, was very windy in the couloir. Smt of LHOT reached at 
          6:30 am, back to C1.
  May 22: C1 to BC
  May 23: left BC to Namche
  May 24: Namche to Lukla.

  Oxygen:
    EVER taken from C3 to summit back to C3
    LHOT from C3 to smt back to C3.
    Same pattern for his Sherpas.


expid: EVER19143
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Richard Morgan
sponsor: Grand Himalaya Treks Everest Expedition Nepal 2019 (65 Degrees North)
countries: USA
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-04
smtdate: 2019-05-21
smttime: 0430
termdate: 2019-05-25
campsites: BC(04/04,5300m),C1(12/04,5900m),C2(17/04,6400m),C3(05/05,7100m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(21/05)
accidents: Slight frostbits for Ransley
agency: Grand Himalaya Treks
routememo:
  BC  04/04  5300m
  C1  12/04  5900m
  C2  17/04  6400m
  C2  06-07/05  7100m
  C4  20/05  7900m
  Smt 21/05  by Ransley and Winch at 4:30 am, Heal at 4:50 am and Davies at 5:10 am, 
             plus 4 Sherpas and American guide Eli Potter [plus Sherpa].

  Summit day: 
  Started on the day before (May 20) quite early, still daylight. 
  May 21: see summiters details in members note; all went back to C4 between 9 and 11 AM (UK time). 
  May 22: all team back to C2
  May 23: all team back to BC
  May 25: team left BC

  Morgan high point at Balcony on May 21 and Nupu descended with him.

  Oxygen: From C3 to summit/high point, then back to C3.

  1 Sherpa for each person: 
    Tenji Nima Sherpa
    Nupu Sherpa
    Namgya Sherpa
    Lakpa Sherpa
    Chhiri Sherpa
    Nga Dorchi Sherpa


expid: EVER19145
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Sheetal Raj
sponsor: Grand Himalaya Treks Everest Expedition Nepal 2019
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-15
smtdate: 2019-05-16
smttime: 0605
termdate: 2019-05-18
campsites: BC(15/04,5280m),C1(22/04,6000m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3(07/05,7400m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Grand Himalaya Treks
routememo:
  BC  15/04  5280m
  C1  19/04  touch, first rotation
  C1  22/04  6000m
  C2  23/04
  C3  07/05  touch, back to C2
  C3  14/05  7400m
  C4  15/05  S Col
  Smt 16/05  by Sheetal with Pemba Chhiring (Taplejung).

  Started from C4 9 pm of 15 May, summited 6:05 am of 16 May, stayed 30 minutes, descended to C4 at 10:15 am, reested about three hours, then went down to C2 at 5:50 pm. Next day to BC. Left BC on 18 May by heli to Lukla.

  Oxygen: Sheetal C3 to Summit to C3, Sherpa same

  Thinking about Manaslu for next year.


expid: EVER19146
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Christopher Pollak
sponsor: HST Adventures Everest Expedition 2019
countries: India, UK
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-05-14
smtdate: 2019-05-23
smttime: 0540
termdate: 2019-05-25
campsites: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(25/04,6000m),C2(27/04,6400m),C3(13/05,7200m),C4(14/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
agency: HST Adventures
routememo:
  BC  14/04  5300m
  C1  25/04  6000m  [29/04 for Ennis]
  C2  27/04  6400m  [03/05 for Ennis]
  C3  13/05  7200m
  C4  14/05  7900m

  Summit waves:

  1st wave (Pollak, Gowler, Ennis):  May 13 at C3. May 14 at C4. May 15 reached HPt at 8684m (GPS measurement). Had started from C4 at 9 pm on May 14, reached HPt at 8:30 am on May 15, back at 6:30-7 pm at C4 on the same day.

  Ennis was using an artificial leg.

  Gowler had problems with his oxygen mask which delayed the team to the point that there was not enough oxygen left for the team to continue to the summit and return safely. Ennis did not want to continue on risking the safety of Gowler and the other members (and did not want to continue on without Gowler).

  2nd wave: (Morton, Makin, Davies, Taylor): left C4 at 9 pm on May 22, summited on May 23 at 5:40 am, back to C2 at 9 pm on same day.

  Member high points:
    Christopher Pollak, USA, Leader, 8684m
    Jay Morton, UK, alpine guide, SMT
    Rob Gowler, USA, 8684m
    Kirstie Ennis, USA, 8684m
    Sam Taylor, Kenya, SMT
    Peter Newland, UK, C3 on May 22 (due to a chest infection)
    Tom Martienssen, UK, C3 on May 22
    Mark Wood, UK, left expedition on April 30, because of chest problems. HP to C1.
    Geth Davies, UK, SMT
    Tom Makin, UK, SMT
    Rizza Ali, India, C4 on May 22.

  Left BC: 1st wave left BC on May 19; 2nd wave left on May 25.

  Oxygen:
    1st wave from C3 (slept on it) to HPt to C3
    2nd wave from 7200m to SMT to 6800m (at foot of Lhotse face).

  Accidents: no frostbites, no injuries, just chest infections.


expid: EVER19147
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Jay Prakash Kumar
sponsor: National Security Guard (NSG) 'Black Cat' Mt Everest Expedition 2019
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-14
smtdate: 2019-05-16
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2019-05-25
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East on 20 April
campsites: BC(14/04),C1(28/04),C2(29/04),C3(14/05),C4(15/05),Smt(16,22/05)
accidents: Prakash Kumar minor frostbite on 3 fingers of right hand.
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  BC  14/04
  C1  28/04
  C2  29/04
  C3  14/05
  C4  15/05
  Smt 16/05 by Roshan Singh, Ramanvir Singh, Johny Mawia, Kunzang Namgail,
            Tsewang Morup, Tashi Stanba, Jay Prakash Kumar plus Sherpas
  Smt 22/05 by Mahender, Vivek Thakur, Sukhvir Singh, Anoop Singh plus Sherpas

  1st summit team started from C4 at 8:30 pm on 15/05, summited at 7:00-8:30 am, down to C2 at midnight. Very bad conditions, very windy.

  2nd summit team started from C4 at 7 pm, summited at from 5:20-6:18 am, back to C2 around 9:30 pm. Very windy conditions again. Bad weather. Also very crowded mountain on 22/05.

  Manoj Kumar turned around at Balcony (8400m) on 16/05. His oxygen mask and regulator were malfunctioning.

  Team left BC on 25/05.

  Oxygen: Taken and used by Sherpas and members from C3 to summit and down to C3.


expid: EVER19148
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Argentina
leaders: Ricardo Birn
sponsor: Prestige Adventure Everest Expedition 2019
countries: India
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-15
smtdate: 2019-05-22
smttime: 0500
termdate: 2019-05-24
campsites: BC(15/04,5300m),C1(28/04,6000m),C2(01/05,6500m),C3(19/05,7300m),C4(21/05,7900m),Smt(22/05)
accidents: Snowblindness for Parma, knee injury for Pandey, AMS for Birn.
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  BC  15/04  5300m
  C1  28/04  6000m
  C2  01/05  6500m
  C3  19/05  7300m
  C4  21/05  7900m
  Smt 22/05  by Megha Parmar and Nima Nuru Sherpa at 5 am.

  Schedule of summit push:

  May 19: Pandey and Parmar slept at C3. On that day, Pandey had been hurt by a rock fall between C2 and C3 on his left knee.

  May 20: Birn slept at C3, meanwhile Pandey and Parmar slept at C4. That evening, Pandey and Parmar decided not to try due to weather bad conditions (windy).

  May 21: Birn joined Pandey and Parmar at C4. Pandey and Parmar started for summit at c6:30-7 pm. Pandey stopped at Balcony at c9:30-10 pm due to his left knee injury, reaching back to C4 at 11:30 pm. Parmar continued to climb with her Sherpa. Birn started later at c7:30-8 pm. He reached Balcony at c11-11:30 pm where he abandoned. 

  May 22: Parmar summited at 5 am with her Sherpa and was back to C4 at noon. On return from the summit, she lost one goggle so that she begun to contract snowblindness. Slept at C4 that night with oxygen, with one bottle left by Pandey for her.
   
  In the morning, Birn had come back to C4 at c4-5 am, while Pandey was resting in his tent. Pandey found Birn in a serious state of deterioration (apparent symptoms of AMS), cared for him with medicines and food, then helped him to get down at C3 with Sherpas, and also launched rescue via Parajuli of Prestige Adventure. According to Pandey, Birn's oxygen device wasn't working correctly. Same day Pandey continued to C2 where he slept. He had also helped an other member in bad shape.   

  May 23: Birn was rescued from C3 at 8 am to Kathmandu, then went for treatment at Swacon Hospital.

  As his knee remained too painfull, Pandey was heli-rescued at 4 pm from C2 to BC, on the same day flew to Lukla. Day after to Kathmandu. 
   
  As she had contracted snowblindness, Parmar couldn't be rescued on that day. She managed to reach C2 however at c8-9 pm where she slept. 

  May 24: Parmar was heli-rescued from C2 to Lukla, then to KTM then went for treatment at CIWEC hospital. 
           
  Oxygen: from “jumar point” at foot of Lhotse face (6800m) to summit/high point to C3.

  Sherpas:
    Ratnesh Pandey with Sangbu Sherpa
    Megha Parmar with Nima Nuru Sherpa
    Ricardo Dario Brin with Chebbi Sherpa


expid: EVER19149
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Vikas Rana
sponsor: Makalu Extreme Everest Expedition 2019
smtdate: 2019-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m for inability to climb higher
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3(26/05,7200m),xxx
agency: Makalu Extreme Treks (Prestige Adventure pmt)
routememo:
  Rana, Banwala and Kasana only climbed to C3 (7200m). Since they were unable to move any higher, their Sherpas descended without them. 

  Later after they returned to base camp, they claimed summit success, but without any proof of success. They said that four Sherpas guided them to the summit on 26 May at 10:30 am, but they could not remember the names of their Sherpas.

  The Ministry had issued summit certificates.

  Mohini Nehra was rescued from C2 according to Oxana Morneva.


expid: EVER19151
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Vimal Kumar
sponsor: Indian Everest Expedition 2019
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-03-31
smtdate: 2019-05-20
termdate: 2019-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to lack of Sherpa interest and broken regulator
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak and Lobuche East
campsites: BC(31/03,5300m),C1(19/04,6100m),C2(08/05,6600m),C3(19/05,7100m),C4(20/05,7900m),xxx
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  BC  31/03  5300m
  C1  19/04  6100m
  C2  08/05  6600m (during 2nd rotation)
  C3  19/05  7100n (during summit push)
  C4  20-21/05  7900m
  Hpt 20-21/05  7900m Kumar and Samgel Sherpa.

  Climb abandoned on May 21 due to Samgel/Samgyal Sherpa not interested to go for the top. May 22 back to C2. Stayed at C2 on May 23, then back to BC on May 24 and flew to Lukla same day.

  Oxygen: Used from C3 (sleeping) to C4 to C3 (oxygen ran out midway in descent). 

  Acclimatized on Island Peak, then Lobuche East.

  Kumar said that his Sherpa didn't want to go for the top, always creating reasons for not to go. Kumar's regulator broken by Sherpas.


expid: EVER19152
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Romania
leaders: Teofil Vlad
sponsor: Viva Everest Expedition 2019
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-03-31
smtdate: 2019-05-22
smttime: 0330
termdate: 2019-05-25
campsites: BC(31/03,5200m),C1(15/04,6100m),C2(16/04,6500m),C3(19/05,7100m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  BC  31/03  5200m (half)
  C1  15/04  6100m 
  C2  16/04  6500m
  C3  19/05  7100m
  C4  20-21/05  7900m
  Smt 22/05  by Vlad and Lhakpa Tenji Sherpa.

  Went on Everest for promoting an NGO which gives climbing lessons for handicaped persons called “Climb Again”. (Vlad is a certified alpine guide in Romania and a climbing coach in Romanian Federation)

  Summit day:
  May 21: started at 7 pm from C4
  May 22: summited at 3:30 am. In the dark, stayed 1 hour to wait for taking 
          pictures of the sunrise. After 30 min came his Sherpa. Back to C4 on that
          day for sleeping.
  May 23: C4 to C2
  May 24: C2 to BC
  May 25: left BC to Lukla.

  Oxygen: From C3 to smt back to C4.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Tenji Sherpa, from Makalu (living in Darjeeling)


expid: EVER19155
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Ang Tshering Lama
sponsor: Nepali Everest Expedition 2019
bcdate: 2019-05-05
smtdate: 2019-05-22
smttime: 0520
campsites: BC(05/05,5350m),C1(6200m),C2(6500m),C3(7100m),C4(7900m),Smt(22-23/05)
agency: Angs Himalayan Adventures (Peak Promotion pmt)
routememo:
  Two Widows Expedition
    
    Fur Diki Sherpa
    Nima Doma Sherpa

  First Hyolmo Everest Expedition

    Kanchhi Dolma Hyolmo Jyaba

  Nepali Female Expedition

    Sarmila Lama


expid: EVER19158
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Elisabeth Revol
sponsor: Revol Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2019
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-12
smtdate: 2019-05-23
smttime: 1050
termdate: 2019-05-26
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-191-14)
campsites: BC(12/04,5400m),C1(15/04,6000m),C2(16/04,7100m),C3(7100m),C4(7900m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Satori Adventures
routememo:
  BC  12/04  5400m
  C1  15/04  6000m
  C2  16/04  6450m
  C3  ??/04  7100m
  C4  22/05  7900m
  Smt 23/05  by Revol, Anup Rai and Thuktang Sherpa at 10:50 am.

  Had acclimatization on Lobuche East.

  Revol first intended to climb on Everest for her sole holidays pleasure, not for doing anything else than "fulfilling a child dream" (had a picture of Everest West Ridge when she was young in her room, with a pray sentence below it - her family being Christian). She wasn't here for doing any kind of performance, but making it as a regular Everest climber (jummaring, taking oxygen if necessary, not properly climbing), this to take the less risks as possible towards her husband. However if possible, she would try without oxygen as high as possible to test her limits. This would be her first expedition on the high peaks after the psychological personal crisis following Nanga Parbat tragedy of 2018.

  Revol had told nothing about her expedition to any press or media back to France prior to her departure, intending to climb for he sole discrete pleasure.

  Summits days (EVER+LHOT):

  May 22: Revol started at 10 pm. She first intended to start at midnight or 1 am, but afternoon of 23rd was announced with bad weather (the one which stopped Goettler), so choose to start earlier. Since she had seen the potential coming crowd at South Col and knowing that weather forecast, she took an oxygen bottle and knew she would use it.

  May 23: Just before dawn, was stopped 1h for a first traffic jam straight below the Balcony. With wind raising, blocked, focused on her extremities (moving fingers), she begun to take oxygen, which she would keep to the summit. In a mixed zone after the Balcony, would have a new stop for traffic jam. Then wouldn't be much annoyed by the queue at Hillary Step. She summited Everest at 10:50 am with her 2 Sherpas. Cold, but not especially on top (windy but with sunlight and sunshine, acceptable). Did pictures, Gopro, stayed maximum 30 min on top. Sent a SMS with her Garmin Inreach to inform her husband about her success with oxygen. On descent Anup Rai (cook) froze part of his right face (mask not well tight). Revol reached C4 in beginning of the afternoon, her Sherpas later.

  Still focusing on her next climb, Revol was informed about a bad weather forecast for the afternoon of 24th, so she knew she would have to start as soon as possible, that with the use oxygen (“since I had use it already on Everest before that and that I had a short weather window, was even not a question using oxygen or not in such context”). Wind rose at 10 pm, still blowing at midnight. At 3 am on next day however it eventually calmed down, so that Revol straight prepared to use that short weather window.

  May 24: Revol alone this time started from C4 (after 4:30 am) down to C4 Lhotse, then climbed up normal route to summit Lhotse at 9:30 am (Inreach time). Spent time gently on top enjoying the view, made a nice summit video in clear sky conditions. Back to C2. Intended to go back down to BC, but since Keval (India) was staying in a bad shape at C1, Rishi Bhandari of Satori Adventures asked her to stay at C2 that night.

  May 25: C2 to BC.

  Revol left BC on May 26.

  Oxygen: Taken from straight below the Balcony to the top, back to C4. Not used for sleeping at C4. Day after from South Col C4 to the top of Lhotse via Lhotse C4, back to somewhere between Lhotse C4 and C3.

  Hired:
    Anup Sherpa
    Tentuk [Thuktang] Sherpa

  Revol used 2 Sherpas in case of emergency, in case she would have tried without oxygen.


expid: EVER19159
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: John Tsang
sponsor: Alpine Adventures Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2019
countries: Japan
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-13
smtdate: 2019-05-22
smttime: 0740
termdate: 2019-04-25
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East and Lhotse (LHOT-191-15)
campsites: BC(13/04),C2(07/05),C3(08/05),C4(21/05),Smt(22/05)
agency: Sherpa Altitude Adventure (Satori Adventures pmt)
routememo:
  BC  13/04
  C1    /
  C2  07/05
  C3  08/05
  C4  20/02  7800m  Lhotse C4
  C4  21/05  7900m  Everest C4
  LhotSmt 21/05 by Tsang and Wong
  EverSmt 22/05 by 5 Hong Kong male climbers.
  LhotSmt 22/05 by Cheung from Everest C4

  Lhotse summit team summited on 21 May at 7:45 am.

  Everest summit team started from C4 at 11:30 pm on 21 May. Team stood on top at 7:40-8:45 am on 22 May. Weather was windy and sunny at that time. They stayed on Everest for about 30 minutes, then descended to C4 at 1-4 pm and stayed one night on 22 May. They stayed at C2 on 23 May and arrived at BC at 12:30 pm on 24 May.

  Cheung summited Lhotse on 23 May frm Everst C4.

  Team flew from BC to Lukla by heli on 26 May and back to KTM on 27 May.

  All safe and smooth. Only Lo Chak-Sum frostbite on right head toe.

  Oxygen: Used C3-Summit-C3 (Members); C4-Summit-C4 (Sherpas)

  PS: They share permit with Satori Adventure
    Everest: 5
    Lhotse:  3
    Lhotse+Everest: 1

  Everest summit times:

  1  CHEUNG CHI-FAI May 22, 7:40 am
     Sherpa: Nawang Rapke Sherpa

  2  SAEKI TOMOHIKO May 22, 7:50 am
     Sherpa: Pasang Dawa Sherpa
     Sherpa: Phurba Geljen Sherpa

  3  LAI LOK-KEI ROCKY May 22 8:15 am
     Sherpa: Lhakpa Tshering Sherpa

  4  LOK CHAK-SUM May 22 8:45 am
     Sherpa: Tashi Thundu Sherpa

  5  TONG CHI-KEUNG May 22 8:45 am
     Sherpa: Rinjin Palden Sherpa
     Sherpa: Tshering Chhosang Sherpa

  Lhotse summit times:

  1  WONG WAI-KIN May 21 7:45 am
     Sherpa: Lhakpa Tshering Sherpa

  2  TSANG CHI-SING JOHN May 21 7:45 am
     Sherpa: Tashi Thundu Sherpa

  3  CHEUNG CHI-FAI May 23 7:40 am
     Sherpa: Nawang Rapke Sherpa


expid: EVER19160
peakid: EVER
year: 2019
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Kari Kobler, Andreas Neuschmid
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Everest Expedition 2019
countries: Austria, Chile, Germany
approach: Lhasa->Everest BC
bcdate: 2019-04-21
smtdate: 2019-05-23
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2019-05-25
campsites: BC(21/04,5700m),ABC(28/94,6400m),C1(10/05,7000m),C2(21/05,7700m),C3(22/05,8300m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Himalaya Vision
routememo:
  BC  21/04  5700m
  ABC 28/04  6400m
  C1  10/05  7000m
  C2  12/05  7700m
  C3  22/05  8300m
  Smt 23/05 by all members and Sherpas (see below) at 9:30 am.

  Summit team left C3 at 11 pm on 22/05. At 1st Step was a lot of traffic. They had to wait for about half an hour. Otherwise straightforward climb. Stayed about 10 minutes on the summit. Weather was good, but strong winds and very cold.

  On the descent, there was congestion above the 2nd Step. They had to wait for about one hour. De Castro and Ibarra descended to C2, where they arrived in the early evening. Willi descended to ABC, where he arrived late.

  Landgraf:s death:

  Neuschmid was with von Wolff, Grubhofer and Landgraf and their Sherpas above the 2nd Step. They waited for about one hour. Landgraf fell off the 2nd Step (he was clipped in) and when his Karma Gyaltsen Sherpa went to help him up, he could not. He was still breathing, but did not respond. About five minutes later he was dead. Karma descended to C3, where Neuschmid, Grubhofer, von Wolff and their Sherpas were. They all stayed the night. On 23/05 everyone descended to ABC.

  On 25/05, three Sherpas from another operator brought Landgraf down from the top of the 2nd Step to the bottom of the 2nd Step, where he now remains.

  Kober stayed at CBC for the whole of the expedition as he was never intending to climb.

  Team left BC on 25/05.

  Sherpas:
    Lale Tamang, Rasuwa (de Castro)
    Dawa Lama, Taplejung (Neuschmid)
    Karma Gyaltsen, Solo Khumbu (Landgraf)
    Kusan Tenjing Taplejung (Ibarra Letelier)
    Nagyal Sherpa (de Castro)
    Tashi Sherpa (von Wolff)
    Chunga Sherpa (Henry Willi)
    Lakpa Gelu (Grubhofer)

  Oxygen: Used from C1 to top to C1 by members, C2 to top to C2 by Sherpas.


