# exped

expid: HMLE17101
peakid: HMLE
year: 2017
route1: W Ridge (up)
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
sponsor: Paulo Himlung East Expedition 2017
ascent1: 1st
approach: Phu->BC
bcdate: 2017-04-26
smtdate: 2017-05-08
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2017-05-12
othersmts: Summited Himlung Himal (HIML-17101)
agency: Yeti Adventure
primid: HIML17101
campsites:
  BC(26/04,4850m),ABC(27/04,4950m),C1(29/04,5480m),C2(02/05,5980m),C3(04/05,6280m),C4(06/05,6850m),C5(07/05,7050m),Smt(08/05)

routememo:
  BC  26/04  4850m
  ABC 27/04  4950m (French camp)
  C1  29/04  5480m 
  C2  02/05  5980m 
  C3  04/05  6280m 
  C4  06/05  6850m
  C5  07/05  7050m 

  Returned to BC on the 10th of May.

  May 7: 6 French and 3 Nepalis camped at C5 (7050m), 100m below the Himlung Himal summit. Paulo Grobel and Bertrand Vayssettes also summited on that day.         

  Summit day on HMLE: 8th of May at 11 am with 2 members and 2 hired (Isabelle Guillaume, Paulo Grobel, Jangbu Sherpa, Rajan Bhote). Himlung East summit team climbed via W Ridge. Intended to continue to traverse onto the ridge farther north from HMLE (border between Nepal and China), but didn't try. On return they climbed ESE ridge of Himlung to the summit. First traverse between both peaks. 


expid: EVER17101
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Nima Namgyal Sherpa
sponsor: Asian Trekking Eco-Everest Expedition 2017
countries: Australia, Brazil, Denmark, Greece, India, Japan, S Africa, USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->EBC
bcdate: 2017-04-14
smtdate: 2017-05-22
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2017-05-25
campsites: BC(14/04,5350m),C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(22,27/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  The Asian Trekking Eco-Everest expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Asian Trekking provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Antonios Sykaris (Greece)
  Michail Evmorfidis (Greece)

  Camps: BC(14/04,5350mm),C1(25/04,6100m),C2(26/04,6300m),C3(20/05,7350m),
         C4(21/05,7920m),Smt(22/05)
  Left:  25/05/2017
  Term:  Success.

  Team left C4 at 10 pm on 21 May. Weather was fine with 15 mph winds. Summited at  10:30 am, stayed 30 minutes, then descended to C4 arriving at 4 pm.

  Oyxgen: 
    Taken and used by team members from 7000m-7300m.
    Taken and used by Sherpas from C4.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Tshering Sherpa, Khumjung-3, 06/08/1986
    Ki Dorjee Sherpa, Gudel-9, 24/02/83
    Tshering Chhosang Sherpa, Khumjung-2, 15/03/91


  Paul Ling (Australia)

  Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(24/04,6100m),C2(25/04,6500m),C3(22/05,7200m),
         xxx(23/05,7900m)
  Left:  25/05/2017 by helicopter
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 7900m due to AMS and chest infection.

  Ling and Sonam started from C3 at 5 am, reaching their high point just below South Col at 4 pm (~7900m). During their ascent it was quite warm, but the wind picked up in the afternoon. As his mask and regulator were defective, Ling climbed without oxygen. He had been climbing for 11 hours and was exhausted, and they ran out of water. He had also suffered from a chest infection and threw up several times during the expedition and was in a rather weak physical condition. They turned around before South Col and got back to C3 at 11:30 pm.

  Next day Ling descended to BC. A doctor diagnosed AMS and gave him Diamox. 

  Oyxgen: 
    Taken, but not used by Larson
    Taken and used by Sonam Sherpa

  Sherpa:
    Sonam Sherpa


  Saray Khumalo (S Africa)

  Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(25/04,6100m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(21/05,7100m),
         C4(22/05,7950m),xxx(23/05,8750m)
  Left:  25/05/2017
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 8700m due to frostbite on all fingers and AMS.

  On 22 May Khumalo with her Sherpa ascended to C4 and started summit push in the night. At 11 pm they set off from C4. It was very windy, Khumalo got frostbitten, she could hardly put one foot after another. Near South Summit they decided to go back to C4 and try again the next day. Going back, Khumalo lost consciousness just before C4. On 24 May she and her Sherpa went down from C4 to C2. On 25 May Khumalo was rescued by helicopter from C2 to Kathmandu.

  Oyxgen: 
   Used by Khumalo from C2 to high point and down to C2
   Used by her Sherpa from C3 to high point and down to C2.


  Taiichiro Kobayashi (Japan)

  Camps: BC(15/04,5350m),C1,C2,C3,C4(22/05,7950m)
  Left:  25/05/2017
  Term:  Abandoned at 7950m due to strong winds and bad weather forecast.

  Oyxgen: Used by Kobayashi


  Reid Larson (USA)

  Camps: BC(15/04,5365m),C1,C2,C3,C4(23/05,7950m),xxx
  Left:  29/05/2017
  Term:  Abandoned at 7950m due to strong winds and bad weather forecast.

  Oyxgen: Used by Larson fron C3 to C4 to C3.


expid: EVER17102
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Satendra Sangwan
sponsor: Asian Trekking ONGC Eco-Everest Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-13
smtdate: 2017-05-15
smttime: 1325
termdate: 2017-05-31
campsites: See route notes
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  The ONGC (Oil and Natural Gas Corporation) expedition consisted of 2 teams: 12 members in total, 9 climbers and 3 support staff.
   
  Support staff consisted of 1 medical doctor (reached C2), Ritu Sharma (reached C2) and expedition leader Satendra Sagwan (only BC). Final summit attempt was made by 7 members, all summited [as corrected by Asian Trekking]:
  			
  Team 1: Nirmal Kumar, Monti Rajkhowa, Prabhat Gaurav, Santosh Kumar
    BC  13/04  5350m
    C1  26/04  6100m
    C2  27/04  6500m
    C3  26/05  7200m
    C4  27/05  7950m
    Smt 28/05  by Nirmal Kumar, Prabhat Gaurav, Santosh Kumar, Pasang Rita Sherpa,
               Tshering Thundu Sherpa, Pemba Tshering Sherpa, Pasang Sherpa at 8 am.

  Team 2: N Jagoi, Yogendar Garbiyal, Loveraj Singh, Rahul Jarngal, Surendra Tomar
    C1  01/05  6100m
    C2  02/05  6500m
    C3  25/05  7200m
    C4  26/05  7950m
    Smt 27/05  by Yogendar Garbiyal, Loveraj Singh at 6:15 am; 
               by N Jagoi, Rahul Jarngal, Shera Gyalzen Sherpa, Sonam Tshering 
               Sherpa, Tenzing Dorje Sherpa, Pasang Temba Sherpa, Temba Sherpa
               at 7:45 am.

  Team 1 started for the summit from C4 at 11 pm on 27 May. They stayed on the top for 40 minutes. Weather was very good on that day, clear, bright and sunny on the summit. When they started there were strong winds, but later on winds subsided. They were the last team on Everest, making use of the very last weather window. Team got back to C4 around noon and to C2 after 1 hour rest. They reached C2 at 5:30 pm. Next day to BC (29 May).

  Team 2 on summit push left C4 at 11:30 pm on 26 May. It was cloudy, windy, visibility was very poor. Wind turned to a storm on the summit (40km/h). Team stayed on the top for at least 30 minutes. They got back to C4 at 12:17 pm. After 1 hour rest, team continued descent to C2, which they reached at 7:30 pm. Next day to BC (28 May).

  Monti Rajkhowa from Team 1 was not able to make a summit attempt, she had a bad cough and sore throat and abandoned climb at C2. She got as high as C4 on first summit attempt, but had to go down again because of bad weather. 

  Surendra Tomar from Team 2 abandoned climb at C2 because of abdominal pain. He reached C3 on the first rotation. Tomar was evacuated from C2 to BC by helicopter on 25 May.

  The expedition collected 500 kg of garbage from South Col, bringing it down to C2. Helicopter took the garbage from C2 to BC. 1000 kg of garbage was collected at BC.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used by members from start of Lhotse Face (6600m) to summit and
    down to C2; by Sherpas from C3/C4 to summit and down to C4.


expid: EVER17103
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Richard Gale
sponsor: British Gurkha Everest Expedition 2017
countries: Nepal
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2017-04-14
smtdate: 2017-05-15
smttime: 1325
termdate: 2017-05-19
othersmts: Purja summited Everest (EVER-171-05) again, Lhotse (LHOT-171-03) and Makalu (MAKA-171-12)
campsites: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(19/04,6100m),C2(20/04,6500m),C3(14/05,7100m),C4(14/05,7900m),Smt(15-16/05)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  BC  14/04  5350m
  C1  19/04  6100m
  C2  20/04  6500m
  C3  14/05  7100m (2nd summit team)
  C4  14/05  7900m members
  Smt 15/05  rope-fixing team of Pema Chhiring, Pem Chhiri, Kancha Nuru Sherpa, 
             Lhakpa Gelu, Sonam Jangbu Sherpa, Pasang Sherpa, Chhimi Gurung, 
             Dhani Rai, Krishna Thapa Magar, Nirmal Purja at 1:30 pm.
  Smt 16/05  Gale, Prasad Ghale, Subarna Gurung, Umesh Gurung, Yam Bahadur Gurung,
             Kumar Rai, Rice, Rakesh Sunuwar, Smith and Boote, Pema Chhiring (again
             from C4), Pem Chhiri (again from C4), Kancha Nuru (again from C4), 
             Sonam Jangbu Sherpa (again from C4), Ang Rinji Sherpa, Da Rinji Sherpa,
             Nuri Sherpa, Lhakpa Tamang, Mitra Tamang, Phur Temba Sherpa at 8:45 am. 

  15 May summit team left at about 3 am on 14 May. They were fixing from the Balcony and pulled out the rope to the Balcony.

  16 May summit team left C4 at about 10:30 pm. Straightforward climb. The Ascent Himalaya and Global Adventure teams were in front of them and they got a bit stuck. They were able to overtake some above the Balcony. 

  They spent about an hour on the summit and descended to C4, where Smith, Rai, Subana Gurung and Rakesh Sunuar stayed (windy night). Rest of the summit team descended to C2, where they arrived between 5:30 pm and 9:30 pm.

  On 18 May everyone at BC. Team left BC by helicopter and walking.

  The generals in the UK made a command decision to stop the expedition after the main summit team on 16 May. 

  Shakti Gurung, Govinda Rana and Pasang Sherpa reached the Bergschrund at about 6700m on 25 April. 

  Maher Thapa reached the Bergschrund at 6700m on 25 April. He had a chest infection and never recovered. 

  Aleksandr Yul Gromen-Hayes reached C3 on 22 April. He was also in the second summit and was told that the expedition was over.

  Todd reached the Bergschrund at 6700m on 25 April on the acclimatization trip. He gave up his space on the summiting team to Christopher Boote.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members and Sherpas.

  Sherpa:
    Pema Chhiring/Chhiri, Beding, 17/12/1983
    Pema Tshering (Pem Chhiri), Chankhu, 16/12/1980
    Kancha Nuru, Khumjung, 2039/08/15 
    Lhakpa Gelu, Beni-3, Solukhumbu, 2034
    Sonam Jangbu, Phurte, 27/08/1987
    Chhimi Lhenduk Gurung, Mustang 24/05/1986
    Pasang Sherpa, Makalu-5, 2048/08/15
    Ang Rinji, Chankur-6, 2047/12/19
    Da Rinji, Jubing, Solu, 2037/11/10
    Ila Nuru Sherpa, Khumjung 2055/01/10
    Lhakpa Tamang, Salleri, Solukhumbu, 2033
    Mitra Bahadur Tamang, Beding, 29/10/1987
    Phur Temba Sherpa, Phortse, 2053/10/14


expid: EVER17104
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Fernando Latorre
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Everest Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-12
smtdate: 2017-05-20
smttime: 0520
termdate: 2017-05-29
campsites: BC((12/04,5350m),C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(20-21,23,27/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
countries:
  Austria, Bulgaria, Chile, France, India, Iran, Morocco, Norway, Pakistan, Peru, Romania, S Korea, USA

routememo:
  The Seven Summit Treks Everest expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-4 climbers each). Seven Summit Treks provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Atanas Skatov (Bulgaria)

  Name:  Vegan Expedition Everest + Lhotse

  BC  15/04 5400m
  C1  26/04 6000m
  C2  27/04 6500m
  C3  14/05 7200m
  C4  15/05 7800m	(Lhotse C4)
  Smt 16/05 by Skatov at 5:30 pm (Lhotse)
  C4  22/05 7950m (S Col)
  Smt 23/05 by Skatov and Pasang 5 am, by Lhakpa Dendi at 5:10 am (Everest).

  On Lhotse summit push Skatov left C4 at 8 am. It was warm, good weather. Skatov's Sherpa Lhakpa Dendi turned around after 50m from C4, Skatov continued alone. At noon he had a problem, his regulator did not work properly and he continued to the summit with a very low oxygen rate. He felt pain in his back, maybe caused by low oxygen. He stayed on the top for 30 minutes, weather and view were perfect. 

  He descended to C4 reaching it at 8:15 pm. He reached the South Col with Lhakpa Dendi Sherpa on the same day at 11:15 pm. But on the South Col the wind started to increase and they returned to C4 on Lhotse. At midnight they arrived at the camp. On 18 May they descended to C2, staying there for 3 nights. 

  On 21 May Skatov and Lhakpa Dendi went from C2 to C3. A new Sherpa (Pasang) arrived to support them. On 22 May they ascended to C4 (South Col). At 7:30 pm Skatov and Pasang started their summit push. Lhakpa Dendi followed them a little bit later. Pasang and Skatov reached the summit of Everest at 5 am (23 May). They stayed on the top for 35 minutes. It was very cold and windy. Lhakpa reached the summit 10 minutes after Skatov and Pasang. Skatov descended alone as he was faster than Pasang and Lhakpa Dendi and didn't want to wait for them. Lhakpa Dendi slept at C4, Skatov went down to C2, reaching the camp at 6 pm. On 24 May Skatov reached BC and left 25 May be helicopter.

  Skatov is vegan. 

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used by Skatov and Lhakpa Dendi Sherpa from C3 to Lhotse summit 
      and back to C4. 
    On Everest from C3 to summit and down to C4 by Skatov and Lhakpa Dendi; by 
      Pasang from C3 to summit and down to C4.

  Sherpas: 
    Lhakpa Dendi, Gudel-9, Solukhumbu, 22/11/1974
    Pasang


  Bouchra Baibanou (Morocco)

  Camps: BC(18/04,5350mm),C1(27/04,6100m),C2(28/04,6400m),C3(18/05,7200m),
         C4(19/05,7950m),Smt(21/05)
  Left:  24/05/17 by helicopter
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Success at 9 am.

  Baibanou and Pasang left C4 around 8 pm on 20 May. It was very cold and windy (50 km/h). They stayed on the summit for 20 minutes. On the summit she took off her oxygen mask to take some pictures and immediately felt dizzy. Pasang put on her mask again and her condition improved again. They descended back to C4, reaching it at 4 pm. Next day they went down to C2. They got back to BC on 23 May.

  Baibanou got frostbite on both hands on summit day. According to doctor it will be Okay after a few weeks. No amputation, but damaged tissue.

  Oxygen: Taken and used by Baibanou and Pasang from C3 to summit and back to C3.

  Sherpa: 
    Pasang, Makalu


  Oxygen: Taken and used from C4 to top to C4.


  Mehdi Gholipour (Iran)

  Camps: BC(12/04,5350mm),C1(6100m),C2(28/04,6500m),C3(17/05,7100m),
         C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(20/05)
  Left:  24/05/17
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Success at 5:20 am.

  Gholipour left C4 at 9 pm on 19 May. Straightforward climb. Spent about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to C3, where he stayed the night.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C4 to top to C4.


  Vibeke Andrea Sefland (Norway)

  Camps: BC(15/04,5350mm),C1(26/04,6100m),C2(27/04,6500m),C3(06/05,7100m)
         LhotC4(15/05,7800m),LhotSmt(16/05); EverC4(21/05,7900m),EverSmt(23/05)
  Left:  25/05/17 by helicopter
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Lhotse success on 16 May at 5:52 pm by Sefland and Temba Bhote
         Everest success on 23 May at 11 am by Sefland and Pasang Sherpa

  Lhotse summit team left C2 at 8 am as the rope-fixing Sherpas were in front of them. They caught up with the rope-fixing Sherpas at about 8200m. The weather was calm and warm, so waiting for the Sherpas was not too bad. There were 17 people on the route (including rope-fixing Sherpas).

  They spent about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 8 pm. The following day they went to C2. They spent three nights at C2.

  On 20 May the Everest summit team went back to C3 and 21 May to C4. On 21 May they left C4 at 8 pm and after they had climbed for about 4 hours, they heard on the radio that a Pakistani (Bhatti) and his Sherpa were in trouble and had called for help. They discussed it and cancelled their summit push for Temba to help rescue. Sefland went back to C4. 

  On 22 May Temba and a group of other Sherpas came back to C4. A doctor of Madison Mountaineering injected Dex into him and even though she said that he was about 5% alive, he was back talking again after 3 hours. As Temba was sort of organizing this rescue, he said to Sefland that he would no longer go to the summit with her, but organise another Sherpa.

  On 22 May Sefland and Pasang (he was on the Everest rope-fixing team on 15 May) left C4 at 9:30 pm. It was very windy, Sefland thought it would have been too windy, but Madison Mountaineering had a big team going up there, so she trusted that it would be ok. 

  They spent about 20 minutes on the summit and then descended to C4. When she got to the South Summit Sefland noticed that she had developed slight HAPE, so she was very aware of this. When she arrived there at about 4 pm, she rested a bit, got an injection of dexamethasone and then took nifidepine in pills. They arrived at C2 at 10:30 pm. On 24 May she descended to BC.

  Oxygen:
    Lhotse:  from C3 to summit to C4 by Sefland and Temba
    Everest: from C3 to summit to BC by Sefland (due to slight HAPE)
             from C4 to summit to C2 by Pasang

  Sherpas:
    Temba Bhote, Takhola, Makalu-Barun, 19/03/1982
    Pasang Sherpa [Tashigaon, Makalu-Barun, 01/12,91?]


  Victor Rimac (Peru)

  Camps: BC(25/04,5350mm),C1(6100m),C2(30/04,6500m),C3(07/05,7100m),
         C4(19/05,7900m),Smt(21/05)
  Left:  24/05/17 by helicopter
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success at 1 pm.

  On 30 April he wanted to go to C3, but then he heard that Ueli Steck had fallen and at about 11 am he went over there with Mehdi from Iran and two Sherpas, who were aspirant mountain guides. They collected Ueli's body parts and put him in a body bag, which was them picked up by helicopters. He stayed at C2 for another night and descended to BC on 1 May.

  On 5 May hack to C2, he spent one night there and two nights at C3. On 9 May he tagged 7500m and returned to BC the same day.

  Rimac got to C4 on 19 May and intended to summit on 20 May. However, weather was bad and he felt tired, so he stayed. He left for summit at 7 pm on 20 May. Many people on the route. It was cold and windy. He walked past the dying American who was on the Balcony, but he was beyond help, so he carried on.

  He spent about 5 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where he arrived at 5 pm. He was very tired. On 22 May he descended to C2 and on 23 May BC.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


  David Snow (USA)
  Larry Daugherty (USA)
  Brandon Fisher (USA)
  Tom Wilkinson (USA)

  Camps: BC(25/04,5350mm),C1(01/05,6050m),C2(02/05,6700m),C3(15/05,7000m),
         C4(16/05,7900m),xxx(17/05,8700m)
  Left:  18/05/17
  Hired: ?
  Term:  Abandoned at 8700m due to bad weather

  We were told the weather would turn bad with heavy winds at 7 am. We were approaching the South Summit at 4:30 am and the Sherpas said they just got a bad weather report and needed to turn due to heavy winds. So we listened to the Sherpas and turned.

  Wilkinson turned around at 8400m due to fatique.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to high point to C3.

  Sherpas:
    Serky [Tarke?] Sherpa
    Pasang Sherpa
    Danu Sherpa


  Ferran Latorre (Spain)

  Camps: BC(23/04,5350mm),C1(27/04,6100m),C2(28/04,6500m),C3(15/05,7200m),
         C4(16/05,26/05,7900m),Smt(27/05)
  Left:  30/05/17 by helicopter
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success

  Latorre touched C4 on 16 May.

  Latorre left C4 at 11 pm. He intended to go without oxygen, however, after about one hour he decided to put on the oxygen of his Sherpa, Dawa Sange. At 8600m on the balcony at 4 am, Dawa Sange was worried that there was not enough oxygen, so he gave Latorre the second bottle and descended. Latorre used only one litre per minute.

  He spent about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where he arrived at 1 pm. On his way down he crossed Hans Wenzl at the South Summit. When he got to C4, he was waiting for Hans to come down. He got back at 6:30 pm. 

  Yannick Graziani also left C4 at midnight. He got to 8500m and turned back due to cold feet. He returned to C4 to wait for Latorre and Wenzl. When Latorre arrived, he said Graziani should go down as he was without oxygen.

  On 28 May Wenzl and Latorre descended to BC.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from 8050m to top to C4 by Latorre.

  Sherpa:
    Dawa Sange


  Yannick  Graziani (France)

  Camps: BC(19/04,5350mm),C1(24/04,6050m),C2(25/04,6450m),C3(03/05,7200m),
         C4(26/05,7900m),xxx(27/05,8550m)
  Left:  28/05/17
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned at 8550m due to bad weather

  On summit day, poor weather conditions stopped him at the Balcony. Felt fit enough to make it. Despite a new expected good weather window coming on 4,5,6 of June, he didn't want to try it again as Icefall Doctors would have left the mountain prior to that new window.  

  Graziani offered Ueli Steck to try for Nuptse together, the Scott route looking in good conditions. But as it would demand a few days for Graziani to obtain a permit (when Steck already had it), Steck eventually preferred to try it alone straight. Conditions had been excellent since a month and it would remain in such way for 5 more days. 

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


  Martina Bauer (Austria)
  Johann Wenzl (Austria)

  Camps: BC(19/04,5350mm),C1(26/04,6100m),C2(27/04,6500m),C3(09/05,7100m),
         C4(19/05,7900m),Smt(27/05)
  Left:  26/05 (Bauer) and 29/05/17 (Wenzl)
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success

  Wenzl started his summit push at C4 at 9:30 pm on 26 May. Weather was bad, quite windy. He summited at 12:45 pm and stayed on the summit for 20 minutes. At 5:30 pm he was back at C4. On 28 May he was back at BC.

  Bauer, Wenzl and Min Dukpa reached C4 on 19 May. The weather forecast was good for this night, but it was very windy. They were already struggling to get to C4. They pitched their tent, which was very difficult in this wind. Min Dukpa did not have a sleeping bag, so they spent an uncomfortable and cold night. During the night they were discussing what to do and decided to descend to C2 the following day. Wenzl to BC.

  On 21 May Bauer descended to BC. She would have liked to do another attempt, but she was told by Seven Summit Treks that there was no more oxygen. She was very disappointed.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to high point to 7500m by Bauer and Min Dukpa
    Wenzl did not use oxygen.


  Abdul Bhatti (Pakistan)
  Saad Mohammed (Pakistan)

  Camps: BC(25/04,5400mm),C2(27/05,6500m),C3(18/05,7200m),C4(19/05,7950m),Smt(21/05)
  Left:  24/05/2017
  Hired: 6
  Term:  Success at in morning.

  Bhatti and Sange left C4 at 7 pm on 20 May. At the Balcony they replaced their old oxygen with fresh oxygen bottles. They felt good at that point. Suddenly the weather deteriorated, a lot of wind, freezing their oxygen masks and goggles. Sange wanted to turn around, but Bhatti insisted to continue to the summit. They summited on 21 May in the morning. They spent 5 minutes on the summit, Sange felt dizzy and was not able to see clearly. They ran out of oxygen and Bhatti was descending very slowly. It got dark and they rested after a long descent near the Balcony. Sange tried to talk to Bhatti, but he didn't answer and seemed to be unconscious. They had no food or water. Sange fell asleep as well, he woke up again by the noise of ascending climbers. His hands were completely frozen, he couldn't move his body. 

  Seven Summit Treks organized a rescue team of six Sherpas led by Temba Bhote from C3. Ang Tsering Sherpa and Nima Gyalzen (Sherpa Khangri) were the first to reach Bhatti and Sange in the morning on 22 May. They moved them down to C4. Bhatti and Sange were near death. They were stuck at C4 for a while because of bad weather. Next day on 23 May they moved Bhatti with great difficulty from C4 to C3. On 24 May Bhatti was brought from C3 to BC by helicopter. And Sange was left at C3 for one night on his own, according to Nima Gyalzen.

  Mohammed was acclimatizing very slowly. He only made it to C3. When he heard that his partner Bhatti was in trouble, he decided to stay in C2 to coordinate the rescue and to not ascend any further. According to Mohammed, Sange was young and inexperienced: he didn't bring enough oxygen.

  Bhatti is in hospital in Kathmandu undergoing treatment. 

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used by Bhatti and Sange from C3 to summit (they ran out of oxygen
    during the descent between the summit and the Balcony.

  Account by Nima Gyalzen on 1 June 2017:

  On the descent Nima Gyalzen, Ang Chhiring Lama, Jangbu Sherpa and Mingma Chhiri Sherpa at about 8700m they found Bhatti, the Pakistani, and Sange Sherpa at about 3 am. Bhatti was asleep and Dawa Sange Sherpa 95% dead. He had thrown off his gloves and oxygen and was hanging on the rope. Nima Gyalzen removed his oxygen and his spare mask and gave it to Bhatti and Dawa Sange Sherpa. 

  Nima Gyalzen put both sick people on the rope and the four Sherpas dragged them down to C4, where they arrived at 3 pm. There the doctor of IMG gave Bhatti and Sange Sherpa dexamethasone. 

  On 23 May Seven Summit Sherpas brought them to C3, from where Bhatti was long-lined to BC and then to Kathmandu and Dawa Sange Sherpa was left at C3 on his own for the night. On 24 May he was brought down to C2 and heli-vaced to Kathmandu.


  Adrian Laza (Romania)

  Camps: BC(16/04,5350mm),C1(27/04,6100m),C2(28/04,6200m),C3(29/04,7000m),
         C4(18/05,8000m),xxx(20/05,8750m)
  Left:  22/05/17
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned due to frozen eyes, frozen hands, frozen feet.

  Laza and his Sherpa left South Col about 7:00 pm. There were so many climbers on that specific night; in Laza's opinion more than 200 including Sherpas. He got stuck several times for more than 30 minutes each time. About 2;30 am he reached the Balcony and about 4:30 am the South Summit and decided that it was safer to turn back; got back to C4 about 8:30 am, spent some time to de-freeze his face, hands and feet and descended straight to C2, where he arrived about 5:30 pm.


expid: MAKA17112
peakid: MAKA
year: 2017
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Nirmal Purja
sponsor: Nirma Purja Everest-Lhotse-Makalu Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla->Makalu BC by helicopter
bcdate: 2017-05-30
smtdate: 2017-06-01
smttime: 0920
termdate: 2017-06-03
othersmts: Purja summited Everest (EVER-171-03, EVER-171-05) twice and Lhotse (LHOT-171-03)
campsites: ABC(30/05,5700m),C1(30/05,6650m),C2(31/05,7450m),Smt(01/06)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
primid: EVER17105
routememo:
  Nirmal Purja summited Everest twice and Lhotse once, before coming to Makalu.

  On 30 May in the early morning, Purja took a helicopter back to Lukla from Namche, picked up four Sherpas and flew to Makalu BC, where they arrived at 7:41 am.

  ABC 30/05  5700m (7:41 am)
  C1  30/05  6650m (5:20 pm, spent the night there)
  C2  31/05  7450m (5:30 pm, spent a few hours there)
  Smt 01/06  by Purja, Walung Dorje, Mingma Dorje and Jangbu at 9:20 am. 

  They left ABC at 10:15 am to C2, arrived at 5:20 pm. It took them a relatively long time because they had to break trail in knee-deep snow. They used the existing fixed ropes on the headwall below C2 and up to the Makalu La. They carried 300m of rope, ice screws and snowbars and tents. 

  Left C2 at 9 am. They were not using oxygen up to about 7400m, but Purja decided to put everyone on oxygen from there as they were going to slowly. They reached C3 at 5:30 pm. They pitched their tent. The weather was horrendous. Very windy again. 

  Purja, Mingma Dorje, Jangbu and Walung Dorje left C3 at 10:30 pm. They went up via C4, but lost the route for a bit and did not use the lower traverse to the French couloir. They traversed across higher up. At 7:26 am they reached the couloir. The rope in the French Couloir was still usable and was not as buried as on the rest of the route.

  They spent about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to C3, where they arrived at 1:30 pm. Rested for a few hours and descended to ABC, where they arrived at 5:30 pm.

  On 2 June they waited for a helicopter, but no heli due to bad weather. On 3 June they left ABC by foot at 3 pm and after having walked the whole night, they arrived at Num at 9 am the following day. From Num to Tumlingtar by jeep on 4 June and back to Kathmandu on 4 June.

  Oxygen: taken and used from 7400m to summit to C2 by all.


expid: EVER17105
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Nirmal Purja
sponsor: Nirma Purja Everest-Lhotse-Makalu Expedition 2017
approach: Ktm->Everest BC by helicopter
bcdate: 2017-05-23
smtdate: 2017-05-27
smttime: 0535
termdate: 2017-05-29
othersmts: Purja summited Everest (EVER-171-03) earlier, Lhotse (LHOT-171-03) and Makalu (MAKA-171-12)
campsites: BC(23/05,5350m),C2(25/05,6400m),C4(26/05,8000m),Smt(27/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  After 15 May summit with the British Gurka Team led by Dick Gale, Purja descended to South Col and then to C2, where he arrived at 9 pm on 15 May. On 17 May back to BC. Heli to Kathmandu on 18 May and returned to BC on 23 May by heli.

  BC  23/05  5350m
  C2  25/05  6400m (left BC at 1:30 am and arrived at 6 am)
  C4  26/05  8000m (left C2 at 2 am and arrived at C4 on 11:30 am)
  Smt 27/05  by Purja, Lhakpa Sherpa (Makalu) at 5:35 am.

  Purja and Lhakpa left C4 at 9:20 pm. Reached dead body of Roland Yearwood just below the Balcony at 11:45 pm. Reached summit at 5:35 am. They spent about 15 minutes on the summit, then descended to C4, where they arrived at 7:30 am. Lhakpa stayed at Everest C4. Purja rested for about 1 hour and continued to Lhotse C4, where he arrived at 10:30 am. He did not rest there, just grabbed some oxygen and continued towards the Lhotse summit with Jangbu Sherpa (see LHOT-171-03 for Lhotse summit details). 

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to both summits to C3 by Purja and Sherpas.


expid: EVER17106
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Song Yu-Jiang
sponsor: Chinese Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2017 (Song)
approach: Lukla->Namche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-18
smtdate: 2017-05-19
termdate: 2017-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 8700m due to strong winds
campsites: BC(18/04,5300m),C1(28/04,6100m),C2(16/05,6400m),C3(17/05,7000m),C4(18/05,7950m),xxx(19/05,8700m)
accidents: Sherpa of Pan Zheng-Sheng got frostbite on his finger
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  18/04  5300m
  C1  28/04  6100m
  C2  16/05  6400m
  C3  17/05  7000m
  C4  18/05  7950m
  HPt 19/05  8700m by Xing-Jiang Ma at 8:30 am. 

  Every climber was climbing with one climbing Sherpa. On summit push Ma Xing-Jiang reached the high point at 8700m where he turned around at 8:30 am because of strong winds. The rest of the team turned around the Balcony at 11 am because of strong winds.

  Sherpa of Pan Zheng-Sheng got frostbite on his finger.

  Oxygen:  
    Xing-Jiang Ma used oxygen from C3 to high point and down to C3.
    Everyone else used oxygen from C3 to Balcony and down to C2.


expid: EVER17107
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Zhang Wei
sponsor: Chinese 14 Peaks Everest Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-19
smtdate: 2017-05-21
smttime: 0500
termdate: 2017-05-23
campsites: BC(19/04,5400m),C1(30/04,6100m),C2(01/05,6500m),C3(19/05,7200m),C4(20/05,7950m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  19/04  5400m
  C1  30/04  6100m
  C2  01/05  6500m
  C3  19/05  7200m
  C4  20/05  7950m
  Smt 21/05  by Chang Jiang and Champa Sherpa at 5:30 am, 
             Lu Jian and Nima Sherpa at 6 am, 
             Xu Fei-Yue and Walung [Dorchi] Sherpa at 6:30 am, 
             Yu Jian-Hong, Pastemba Sherpa and Pasang Sherpa, at 5 am.

  Summit team, An Shao-Hua, Liu Zheng left C4 between 7 pm and 9 pm on 20 May. It was a bit windy, around 40 km/h. At 8100m An Shao-Hua decided to turn back as he did not feel safe. He returned to C4. 

  Liu Zheng reached 8700m, but had to turn back as he was going blind. He was with Dawa Sherpa and they turned back at about 5 am. They got to C4 at 11 am, rested and continued to C2 that day. His eyes recovered at C4.  

  Summit team carried on with no problems, spent about 10 minutes on the sumit (it was windy) and then descended to C2.

  Zhu Gang reached C4 20 May; he was too tired to go for the summit and descended to C2.

  Gao Yang reached C4 on 20 May; she was too slow to carry on and descended to C2.

  Qiu Xiao-Bin reached BC on 19 April and was rescued by helicopter 22 April due to pulmonary oedema. 

  Xu-Hong Zhou never arrived in Nepal. He was stopped at Chinese customs. Will come in 2018. 

  Wei got to 6800m on 8 May in the hope that the rope fixers would go up, but when they decided that they would not, he returned to BC where he stayed as the expedition leader.
  		
  22 May everyone back at BC. Team left BC on 23 May by helicopter.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top or high point to C2 by members
    From C4 to top or high point to C4 by Sherpas.


expid: EVER17109
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2017
countries: China, Japan, UK, USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-10
smtdate: 2017-05-26
smttime: 0810
termdate: 2017-05-29
othersmts: Attempted Lhotse (LHOT-171-18)
campsites: BC(10/04,5350m),C1(6100m),C2(15/04,6500m),C3(09/05,7300m),C4(09,25/05,7900m),Smt(26/05)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  BC  10/04  5350m
  C1  -----  6100m
  C2  15/04  6500m
  C3  09/05  7300m
  C4  09/05  7900m second summit push 25 May
  Smt 26/05  by Hasler, Jeffrey Smith, Burke, Gomi, Sonam Tashi, Phurba Gyalzen, 
             Son Dorje and Gyalzen Dorje between 8:10 and 8:22 am.

  Left C4 at 1 am. Straightforward climb. Clear and calm weather. Burke, Gomi, Sonam Tashi, Phurba Gyalzen and Son Dorje down to C2, where they arrived at around 5 pm. Hasler and Smith stayed at C4 as Smith's knees were painful. They descended to C2 on 27 May and everyone down at BC on 28 May. Team left BC 29 May by helicopter.

  Tait reached C3 with Kenton Cool and his client Rob Owens on 9 May. They were hoping to use the summit window of 10 May and follow the rope-fixing team. However, it was too cold and too windy and the ropes were not fixed. They descended on 10 May and left the expedition on 12 May.

  Hunter reached C2 on 15 April. He had a mini-stroke at BC and took the same helicopter flight as David Tait and Kenton Cool on 12 May.

  Tamura reached C2. He was fatigued on this expedition and did not seem to acclimatize well and left expedition early.

  Wang and Zhang got to C2. Lack of motivation. Left with David Tait.

  Sherpas:
    Sonam Tashi, Phortse, 18/06/1993
    Son Dorje, Phortse, 22/05/1963
    Phurba Gyalzen, Chaurikharka, 21/03/92
    Gyalzen Dorje, Phortse, 17/02/88

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members
    From C4 to top to C4 by Sherpa
    At C2 by Tamura


expid: EVER17110
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Greg Vernovage
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Everest Expedition 2017
countries: Australia, Canada, Dominican Republic, France, Germany, Morocco, Norway, UK
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-04
smtdate: 2017-05-22
smttime: 0252
termdate: 2017-05-29
campsites: BC(04/04,5350m),C1(6000m),C2(6500m),C3(7200m),C4(7900m),Smt(22,25/05)
agency: Beyul Adventure
routememo:
  BC  04/04  5350m
  C1         6000m
  C2         6500m (upper)
  C3         7200m
  C4         7900m
  Smt 22/05
  Smt 25/05

  2 perfect days, everyone reaching the South Col reached the summit. 

  1st wave 22 May: started from C4 at 8-9:30 pm on the day before. reached summit between 2:52am (Knut Meel) and last at 5:30 am (Ryan Laughna and Josh McDowell).

  2nd wave 25 May: started from C4 at 10:15 pm on the day before, reached summit between 3:50 am and 8:22 am.


expid: EVER17111
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Ben Jones
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2017
countries: Australia
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-09
smtdate: 2017-05-27
smttime: 0815
termdate: 2017-05-29
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-171-02)
campsites: BC(09/04,5400m),C1(24/04,6100m),C2(26/04,6500m),C3(24/05,7400m),C4(25/05,7950m),Smt(27/05)
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  BC  09/04  5400m
  C1  24/04  6100m
  C2  26/04  6500m
  C3  24/05  7400m				
  C4  25/05  7950m
  Smt 27/05  by Jones, Petersen, Zeckendorf, Perez, Murphy, Alexander, Jangbu,
             Kami Rita, Mingma Chhiri, Da Nuru, Phura Kancha at 8:15 am.

  Summit Lhotse on 28 May by Perez and Jangbu, Karma Serki at 8 am.

  Everest summit team left C4 at 11 pm on 26 May. Weather was warm but cloudy. Light snow on the SE Ridge. Straightforward climb. They spent about half an hour on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at about 12:30 am.

  On 27 May they all descended to C2 apart from Perez, who summited Lhotse from C4 on Everest. He [with Jangbu] left C4 Everest at 1 am. He felt exhausted after Everest, but pushed himself and got up Lhotse. Good and clear day. They spent about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to C2 at about 3 pm.

  On 28 May whole team at C2. On 29 May at 3 am everyone descended to BC, packed and took helicopter to Lukla and then Kathmandu.

  Hill reached C1 on 24 April. He was too tired and left expedition.

  King reached reached 5500m. He had been having a cold and felt too weak. Left expedition.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C2 to summit and down to C2 by members, 
    From C3 to top to C3 by Jones, Murphy and Jangbu, 
    From C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Jangbu, Patle-5, Okhaldhunga, 21/05/1971
    Kami Rita (Topke), Thami, 17/01/1970
    Mingma Chhiri/Chhiring, Thami, 22/07/1968
    Dawa Nuru (Da Nuru), Thami, 25/11/1964
    Phura Kancha (Fur Kancha), Thami, 17/01/1977
    Karma Serki (Karma Sarki), Phortse, 25/01/1987

    Jangbu Sherpa is a qualified guide and counted as guide on the expedition.

  Death: Goht Khuber Rai, the cook of the expedition died of a stroke/heart failure on the night of 27 May [at BC]. Team was at the South Col and Lakpa Rita and the doctors worked hard to do all they could to keep him alive. 


expid: EVER17112
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Mike Roberts
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Everest Expedition 2017
countries: Australia, Ireland, UK, USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-12
smtdate: 2017-05-21
smttime: 0620
termdate: 2017-05-29
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),C1(19/04,6000m),C2(21/04,6450m),C3(19/05,7350m),C4(20/05,8000m),Smt(21-22,27)
accidents: Snowblindness (Jay)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  12/04  5350m
  C1  19/04  6000m	
  C2  21/04  6450m	
  C3  19/05  7350m
  C4  20/05  8000m	
  Smt 21/05  by Ang Dorje, Pheby, Rinji, Pemba Nuru and Rinji Palden at 6:20 am.
  Smt 22/05  by Gustin, Mace, Pasang Bhote, Dawa Bhote and Dipen Bhote at
             6:30 am; Kelly, Jay, Brecx, Smith, Roberts, Kami Rita, Chewang Dorje,
             Tenzing Gyalzen, Nima Tshering, Umung Bhote, Nawang Rapke and
             Ngima Nuru between 4:20 am to 6:20 am.
  Smt 27/05  by Haugen, Pender, Simper, Sange Dorje, Pemba Chhoti, Ang Jangbu, 
             Mingma Tenji, Pasang Wangchu Bhote and Nima Nuru at 5:30 am.

  21 May summit teams left C4 at 8:50 pm on 20 May. Weather calm and nice. Straightforward climb. They spent about 30 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived 11 am. On 22 May C2 and 23 May BC. 

  22 May summit team and Robin Moore left at 9 pm on 21 May. Straightforward climb. They came across Sange Sherpa, who was with the Pakistani climber, when they were on the South Summit. Sange fell down the steepest part of the South Summit about 25 metres after he had unclipped himself. He must have suffered from HACE. He landed beside Smith, who tried to give him assistance, but Sange refused. Robin Moore, who is a doctor, reached Dawa Sange at about 8700m. She gave him some oxygen. She carried on and came across the Pakistani, and also gave him some of her oxygen and by the time, she reached about 8750m she was exhausted and her oxygen unit failed. She described it as a near death experience and descended to C4.

  22 May summit team spent about half an hour on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived between 9 am and noon.

  Jay had a retinal hemorrhage on the summit. She descended with two Sherpas and Roberts to C4. Roberts injected some dex and gave her oxygen at a flow rate of 4l per minute. She got better and could descend to C2 the following day.

  On 23 May, everyone down at BC.

  27 May summit team left C4 at about 8:30 pm. Weather was warm, but cloudy. Straightforward climb. Spent about half an hour on the summit. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 1 pm. On 28 May, the team descended to C2.

  On 29 May, Pender who had slipped the previous day and allegedly got a concussion was helicoptered from C2 straight to Kathmandu via BC.

  Davies reached the base of the Lhotse face on 24 April. On the descent back to BC he fractured his arm just below C1 during an arm wrapping descent on 25 April. He descended to BC and was helicoptered out on 25 April.

  Kitney reached 6700m on 24 April. He decided to abandon the expedition and left on 10 May.

  Wells reached 5600m on 30 April. He had asthma and left BC on 3 May.

  Oxygen: C3 to summit to C3 by members; C4 to summit to C4 by Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Chuldim Dorje (private guide for Pheby)
    Rinji (Rinzin), Gorakhani-5, Solukhumbu, 26/07/1975
    Pasang Bhote, Chepuwa-1, Makalu-Barun, 30/11/1973
    Dawa, Hatiya, [05/09/1988?]
    Kami Rita, Thami, 22/10/1977
    Chewang Dorje, Pangboche, 17/04/1981
    Tenzing Gyalzen, Phortse, [02/07/1991?]
    Nima Tshering. Phortse
    Sange Dorje, Khumjung, 14/04/1978
    Pemba Chhoti, Thami, 25/11/1972
    Dawa Jangbu (Da Jangbu), Pangboche, 22/04/1973
    Pemba Nuru
    Dipen Bhote
    Umung Bhote
    Nawang Rapke
    Mingma Tenji
    Pasang Wangchu
    Nima Nuru
    Rinji Palden


expid: EVER17113
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Tim Mosedale
sponsor: Tim Mosedale's Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2017
countries: Australia, Ireland, USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-17
smtdate: 2017-05-16
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2017-05-28
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-171-04)
campsites: BC(17/04,5350m),C1(21/04,6100m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(14/05,7100m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(16,26/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  17/04  5350m
  C1  21/04  6100m
  C2  24/04  6400m
  C3  14/05  7100m
  C4  15/05  7900m
  Smt 16/05  by MacKenzie, Mosedale, Ptemba Sherpa, Dorje Gyalzen at 7 am
  Smt 26/05  by Guidry and Jabu, McHugh and Dorje Gyalzen (again), Penson and 
             Kalzang Dorje at 11 am.

  Tim Mosedale's team had flown down to Namche on 11 May and was there when Mosedale found out that the ropes were going to be fixed and the weather would be good for the summit on 16 May. He rang them and the MacKenzie agreed to come back [immediately]. MacKenzie was back on 12 May and left BC for summit on 13 May. 

  16 May summit team left at 10 pm on 15 May. Good day and good conditions. They spent about 30 minutes on the summit everybody down to C2, where they arrived at 5pm. 

  Others back from Namche on 18 May and left for summit push on 21 May. They spent three nights at C2, then C3 and on 25 May. Mosedale went to the South Col with the team, but as he did not have a permit for a second summit, he stayed there and waited for his team.

  26 May summit team left C4 at 1:30 am. The reason they left so late was due to the weather forecast as winds were supposed to be dying down from 5 am. The ascent was windy. Only few other groups around (Himex). There was cloud on the summit and they did not have a view. They descended to C2 with Mosedale, where they arrived at 8:30 pm.

  Penson sprained his ankle on the trek to BC. He was in too much pain at BC. He went home to Barcelona on 23 April. He went to see a doctor, was sorted out and came back on 4 May. He went to C1 on 5 May [and summited on 26 May].

  Hall reached C2 on 24 April. He was having difficulties breathing and left expedition on 9 May.

  19 May oxygen bottles stolen from Lhotse high C3.
  22 May seven bottles gone from the South Col.

  Everest and Lhotse teams left BC by helicopter on 28 May.

  Sherpas:
    Dorje Gyalzen, Pangboche, 16/07/1982
    Ptemba Bhote, Hatiya-1, Makalu 17/06/1971
    Kalzang Dorje, Pangboche, 23/07/1981
    Chayang Jangbu Bhote (Jabu)

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members.
    Sherpas from C4 to top to C4.


expid: EVER17114
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Willie Benegas, Damian Benegas
sponsor: Benegas Brothers Everest Expedition 2017
countries: Canada, Venezuela
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-17
smtdate: 2017-05-25
smttime: 0810
termdate: 2017-05-26
campsites: BC(17/04,5350m),C1(25/04,6100m),C2(26/04,6500m),C3(23/05,7100m),C4(24/05,7900m),Smt(25/05)
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  BC  17/04  5350m
  C1  25/04  6100m
  C2  26/04  6500m
  C3  23/05  7100m
  C4  24/05  7900m
  Smt 25/05  by Willie and Damian Benegas, Oldring, McCullough, Rick, Lhakpa
             Gyalgen, Dawa Sherpa, Lobsang, Chheden and Pasang at 8:10 am.

  Summit team left at 11:16 pm. Perfect weather as opposed to the weather forecast. It was clear and calm. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 12:40 pm. They spent the night there. On 26 May to C2, on 27 May to BC.

  Camardiel reached C1 on 25 April. He seemed too scared of the mountain and left on 13 May.

  Cesin reached C2 on 26 April. She had had heart surgery 5 years ago and was not feeling very well. She left BC on 18 May.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C2 to top to C2 by members. 
    From C3 to top to C3 by Benegas brothers and Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Gyalzen, Paiya, Jubing, 20/07/1974
    Dawa Gelzen, Chaurikharka-8, 19/02/1989
    Lobsang Sherpa, Kharikhola, 27/061985
    Pasang Bhote, Chepuwa-2, Sankhuwasabha, 28/02/1996
    Chheden Lama Bhote, Hatiya-3, Sankhuwasabha, 19/02/1986


expid: EVER17115
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Garrett Madison
sponsor: Madison Mountaineering Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2017
countries: Canada, India, Norway
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-13
smtdate: 2017-05-21
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2017-05-26
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-171-05)
campsites: BC(13/04,5350m),C1(21/04,6100m),C2(22/04,6550m),C3(19/05,7100m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(21,23/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  13/04  5350m
  C1  21/04  6100m
  C2  22/04  6550m
  C3  19/05  7100m
  C4  20/05  7900m
  Smt 21/05  by Schellens, Stenderup, Christofferson, Siddhi Tamang between 
             9:30 and 10:45 am.
  Smt 23/05  by Zagaytova, Gallant, Settemsdal, Klein, Malony, McLeland, Madison,
             Nugent, Bliss plus 12 Sherpas at between 5:45 am and 7 am.

  21 May summit team, Brent Bishop and Tashi Sherpa left C4 at midnight. Bishop and Tashi encountered the Slovak climber Vladimir Strba, who was ataxic. They found him at about 3:30 am, roped him up and carried and dragged him down to C4. It took them about 5 hours. They put him into a tent and gave him an oxygen bottle and put it on 4 litres a minute. They also gave him dex. Rob Smith from Adventure Consultants then took over as Bishop and Tashi were exhausted and needed to rest. Strba died in the afternoon on 21 May. He was brought down to the bottom of the Lhotse Face and picked up by helicopter.

  Rest of the team carried on to the summit. They spent about half an hour and descended to C4, where they spent the night. Bishop and Tashi down to C2 on 21 May. On 22 May to C2, and 23 May to BC.

  23 May summit team left C4 on 9:30 pm. It was very windy (70km/h). The real wind started after sunrise when they reached the South Summit. The spent about half an hour on the summit and started to descend. They stayed at C4, where they arrived 10 am. On 24 May down to C2 and on 25 May everyone down to BC. 

  Audrey Cadwallader reached C2 on 22 April. She did not feel well and left expedition.

  George Gosbee reached BC. He got HAPE and left expedition.

  Sindhi reached C2 on 22 April. She did not feel well and left expedition.

  Lhotse Summit:
  On 23 May by Schellens, Stenderup, Siddhi Tamang at 10 am
  On 24 May by Sidney Pattison, Ingvild Settemsdal, Lhakpa Dendi Sherpa at 12 noon

  23 May Lhotse summit team had come down from Everest on 21 May to C4. They rested the whole of 22 May and on morning of 23 May they left Everest C4 at about 5 am. Straightforward climb, but it was very windy. They spent about 15 minutes on summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at about 4 pm.

  24 May Lhotse summit team: Pattison had spent 3 nights at C4 as he had climbed up with the Everest summit group. After summiting Everest Settemsdal spent a night a C4 on Everest. On 24 May, they left C4 at 7 am. Spent about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at about 5:30 pm.

  Everyone down at BC on 25 May. Left BC 26 May (heli).

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C2 to top or high point to C2 by members and guides, 
    From C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.


  23 May Sherpa Summiters (from Madison Mountaineering website):
    Ang Phurba
    Lhakpa Dendi
    Nurbu Sherpa
    Pasang Dawa
    Pemba Sherpa
    K. B. Thapa 
    Tshering Bhote [Lakpa Bhote?]
    Ming Dorjee
    Shere Thapa
    Chhombi Sherpa
    Shamgbu Bhote
    Kam Dorjee
    Phurba Bhote


expid: EVER17116
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Mexico
leaders: Viridaina Alvarez
sponsor: Ascent Himalayas International Everest Expedition 2017
countries: Australia, Brazil, Ireland, Norway, UK
approach: Lukla->Namche->Island Peak->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-20
smtdate: 2017-05-16
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2017-05-19
campsites: BC(20/04,5300m),C1(27/04,6100m),C2(28/04,6400m),C3(14/05,7000m),C4(15/05,7950m),Smt(16/05)
accidents: Richard Brooks got frostbite in his toes on summit day and has been hospitalized in Kathmandu
agency: Ascent Himalayas
routememo:
  BC  20/04  5300m
  C1  27/04  6100m
  C2  28/04  6400m
  C3  14/05  7000m
  C4  15/05  7950m
  Smt 16/05  by John Burke, Allan Meek, Richard Brooks, Torkjel Hurtig, Adriano
             Freire, Une Prestholt, Andre Spica, Viridaina Alvarez, Pasang Tenzing,
             Tamting, Dawa Tashi, Furtemba, Tsering Dawa, Naren Shahi, Pur Bahadur
             Gurung, Lama Dawa Sherpa and Nawang Jangbu between 9 and 10 am.

  The team left C4 at 9:20 pm on 15 May. The weather was very good, no wind, very clear, quite warm. They reached the summit at 9:30 am on 16 May. 

  John Burke is the first of his county in Ireland (Clare) to reach the summit of Mount Everest.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used by climbing Sherpas from C4 to summit and back to C4
    By clients from C3 to the summit and back to C3.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Tenzing, Beding, 1/10/1984
    Tamtin (Thomting, Tamding), Beding, 19/12/1974
    Dawa Tashi, Beding, 18/04/1987
    Furtemba, Simigaon, 11/10/1984
    Tshering Dawa, Beding
    Naren Shahi, Lamjung
    Pur Bahadur Gurung, Lamjung
    Lama Dawa Sherpa, Solukhumbu
    Nawang Jangbu, Yilajung, 16/02/1975


expid: EVER17117
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Tsang Yin-Hung (Ada)
sponsor: Dreamers Destination Everest Expedition 2017
countries: New Zealand
bcdate: 2017-04-20
smtdate: 2017-05-21
smttime: 0600
campsites: BC(20/04,5350m),C1(27/04,6100m),C2(30/04,6400m),C3(19/05),C4(20/05),Smt(21-22/05)
agency: Dreamers Destination Treks
routememo:
  Notes from Dreamers Destination web site:

  2017-04-04: Our staffs are now in Everest base camp.

  2017-04-13: All members for the Everest expedition have safely landed to Lukla Airport and are heading towards the Base Camp for Everest Expedition 2017.

  2017-04-19: All the climbing team along with the guide and Sherpas have reached to Gorak Shep today and they shall reach to the Base Camp tomorrow early morning.

  2017-04-27: All the members have successfully climbed  Mt. Lobuche for the acclimatization and are heading to Camp 1 today.

  2017-04-30: The team has made up to Camp 2 and are heading towards Camp 3 for the further acclimatization. They will complete there first rotation and will be back to the base camp within few days.

  2017-05-19: The team has reached to Camp 3 successfully and are preparing to make the summit attempt on 22nd May. All the team along with Sherpas are in good condition.

  2017-05-21: Our team members Mr. Zhang Jiang Guo, Mr. Elton Ng and Ms. Tsang Yin Hung made their successful summit today at 6:00 am in the morning along with their supporting climbing partners Phurba Tenzing Sherpa, Nima Tenzing Sherpa, Ang Nuru Sherpa and Padam Sherpa. We congratulate Ada for being the first lady from Hong Kong to reach the summit of Mt. Everest. 

  2017-05-22: Our final member Tan Bao Tao also reached Everest summit today along with the supporting Sherpas Phurba Tenzing Sherpa and Ang Norbu Sherpa. Phurba Tenzing Sherpa and Ang Norbu Sherpa made it twice to the summit in the same season. We are proud to have 100 percent success rate for our our Everest Expedition 2017.


expid: EVER17118
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Damien Francois
sponsor: NTU-NIE Everest Team Singapore 2017
countries: Singapore
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche Pk->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-09
smtdate: 2017-05-22
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2017-05-27
campsites: BC(09/04,5400m),C1(25/04,6100m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(11/05,7100m),C4(21/05,7950m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Ever Quest Expeditions
routememo:
  NTU-NIE = Nanyang Technological University-National Institute of Education

  BC  09/04  5400m
  C1  25/04  6100m
  C2  26/04  6400m
  C3  20/05  7100m
  C4  21/05  7950m
  Smt 22/05  at 9:30 am by Ya'akob, Nosang Bhote and Dukchung Lama.

  Arjunan felt exhausted and had been rescued from C1 to BC by helicopter start of May. He resumed the climb after a few days of rest. Arjunan eventually abandoned climb on 12 May a bit above C2 due to frostnip on his hands. On 13 May he was back at BC. He stayed at BC for the rest of the expedition. 

  Tong suffered from hypothermia on first rotation and was evacuated from C2 to BC by helicopter on 28 April. Doctors at BC diagnosed HAPE. It got worse during the night and he was flown to Kathmandu the next day. After a few days of recovery in Kathmandu he returned to BC, resuming the climb. 

  On summit push Tong and Ya'akob with their Sherpas set off from C4 on 21 May at 9 pm. Weather was perfect, not much wind, the trail was full of people going for the summit. Tong and Datuk Bhote turned around at South Summit at 4 am on 22 May, because Tong suffered from cold feet and hypothermia. They got back to C4 at 7:30 am.

  Ya'akob, Nosang and Dukchung continued to the summit. They were back at C4 at 2:40 pm. Tong descended to C2. On 23 May he was back at BC. Ya'akob stayed at C4 for the night. Next day (23 May) she descended to C2. She reached BC on 24 May. 

  Francois reached C3 on 22 May with Lakpa Sherpa. At C3 he decided to abandon the climb because of bad weather forecast. He spent one night at C3 breathing supplemental oxygen. He was back in BC on 24 May. 

  Team left 25 May trekking to Pheriche.

  Oxygen: 
    Used by Ya'akob from start of Lhotse Face (6600m) to the summit and down to C2;
    by Tong from start of Lhotse Face to South Summit and down to C2; 
    by Francois during the night at C3. 

    By Dukchung Lama from C4 to summit and down to C3;
    by Nosang Bhote from a little bit above C3 to summit and down to C2;
    by Datuk Bhote from C4 to South Summit and down to C3.

  Hired:
    Nosang Bhote (38, Makalu-Barun)
    Dukchung Lama (28, Makalu-Barun)
    Datuk Bhote
    Lakpa Sherpa


expid: EVER17119
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Vishal Dubey
sponsor: Indian Army Snow Lion Everest Expedition Spring 2017
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-16
smtdate: 2017-05-21
smttime: 0309
termdate: 2017-05-29
campsites: BC(16/04,5400m),C1(17/04,6100m),C2(13/05,6400m),C3(15/05,7100m),C4(19/05,7950m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  BC  16/04  5400m
  C1  17/04  6100m
  C2  13/05  6400m
  C3  15/05  7100m
  C4  19/05  7950m
  Smt 21/05  by Kunchok Tenpa (no O2), Kelsang Dorje (no O2), Kalden Panjur (no O2),
             Sonam Phuntsok (no O2), Urgen Topgye, Nawang Gelek, Karma Zopa and 
             Anup Gurung, Lama Kusang Sherpa, Nima Tenzin Sherpa, Lakpa Nuru Sherpa,
             Lakpa Dendi Sherpa and Wangdi Gyalbo Sherpa [by] 8 am.

  Team was stuck at C4 for 3 nights because of bad weather. They said they were involved in the rescue of Slovak climber Vladimir Strba. They provided a tent for him, but Strba died at South Col. 

  On summit push team started at 9 pm from South Col. Team stayed on the summit for 1 hour. Back in C4 around 1 pm. Team stayed at C4 for the night and descended to C2 on 22 May. 23 May back to BC.

  Chauhan, Karma, Kuldeep Singh, Laxman Sapkota, Dolma and Choden reached C4. They were struggling with the altitude and Dolma and Choden had little oxygen left. So they decided to turn back. 

  Dubey turned around at 8500m. He was climbing without oxygen and was struggling.

  Left BC on 29 May in marathon to Lukla.

  Accidents: 
    Frostbite on fingers: Kunchok Tenpa and Nawang Gelek
    Snowblindness: Sonam Phuntsok 

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used by Urgen Topgye, Nawang Gelek, Karma Zopa from 8200m to the 
      summit and down to C4. By Sherpas from C3 to summit and down to C3.	
    NOT used by Kunchok Tenpa, Kelsang Dorje, Kalden Panjor, Sonam Phuntsok, 
      Vishal Dubey.

  Sherpas: 
    Anup Gurung, Gorkha-5 (13/12/2045)
    Lama Kusang Sherpa, Lokhim-9 (30/3/2047)
    Nima Tenzin Sherpa, Namche-7 (9/3/2051)
    Lakpa Nuru Sherpa, Jubing-7 (10/10/2054)
    Lakpa Dendi Sherpa, Jubing-7 (9/11/2050)
    Wangdi Gyalbo Sherpa, Mabi-8 (19/1/2042)


expid: EVER17120
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: SummitClimb Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2017
countries: Australia, Germany, India, Israel, Norway, Poland
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-16
smtdate: 2017-05-20
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2017-05-28
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-171-01)
campsites: BC(16/04,5350m),C1(23/04,6100m),C2(26/04,6500m),C3(29/04,7050m),C4(17/05,8000m),Smt(20-21/05)
accidents: Roland Yearwood on 20 May died of HACE
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  BC  16/04  5350m
  C1  23/04  6100m
  C2  26/04  6500m
  C3  29/04  7050m
  C4  17/05  8000m
  Smt 20/05  by Chhewang Karma and Salte at 10 am
  Smt 21/05  by Lhakpa Tendu, Szczuraszek and Babij at 1 pm.

  Summit 20 May: Salte, Anthony Sanchez, Kjoelvik, Yearwood and Borang arrived at C4 on 17 May. The weather was not good (windy and snowing) and they stayed at the South Col until 19 May. They left C4 at 7:30 pm on 19 May. Summiters stayed for about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 2 pm.

  Sanchez turned around at the Hillary Step he was too tired. 

  Yearwood reached the Balcony at about 5:30 am. His Sherpa Sange told him to go down as he was so slow, but Yearwood insisted on continuing to the South Summit (8700m), where they arrived at about 3 pm. Yearwood was very confused and finally agreed to go down. He started to descend, but Sange ended up dragging him down for about 2 hours. They reached the Balcony at 7:30 pm. The weather was bad, Yearwood showed severe signs of HACE. He threw his gear around, rolled in the snow, took off his oxygen mask. He died at midnight. Sange stayed with him until he died and descended to C4, where he arrived at 1:30 am on 21 May.

  On 21 May and 24 May the Sherpas went back up to the Balcony to recover Yearwood's body; however, both times the weather did not allow for a recovery.

  Mito Borang reached the Balcony (8400m), but the weather was too bad for him and his Sherpa told him to turn back as he was too slow. He decided to turn back to C4 and abandon the climb.

  Kjoelvik reached C4 on 17 May. He was very sick up there and descended to C2 on 19 May.

  On 21 May summit team and Hanna Bruss, Sylwia Bajek, Damian Bourke, Krzysztof Sabisz, Szczepan Brzeski left C4 at 7:30 pm. Bruss reached the Balcony, but she was very slow and very tired and descended to C4 with Lhakpa Gelu [from British Gurka team]. Bajek and Brzeski reached the Hillary Step and decided to go down as their oxygen was running low. It was 11 am. They had insisted on climbing on a high flow rate, even though they were told that they would not reach the summit with such a high flow rate (by Pema Renzi). They descended to C4 and stayed the night. They had enough oxygen to sleep on it at a flow rate of 1/2 litre.

  Damian Bourke got hit by a rock or an oxygen bottle on his way to the summit. He was in the rock field below the Balcony (8300m). He got knocked over and descended to C4, where he stayed the night and on 22 May, he descended to C2 from where he was helicoptered back to Kathmandu.

  Sabisz reached the South Summit. He was very slow and sick. His Sherpa told him to come down. He descended to C4 with slight HACE, spent the night at C4, on 22 May to C2 and on 23 May to BC.

  Summit team descended to C4, where they spent the night.

  Kress reached C3 on 29 April; he left the expedition when he heard about Ueli Steck's death.

  Mori reached BC but was so dehydrated, the doctor at the HRA clinic gave her two litres of saline at BC. She left the expedition on 20 April. 

  Rigney reached C2 and left expedition due to his bad cough.

  Mazur stayed at BC as he never intended to climb.		

  Oxygen: C3 to summit to C3 by members; C4 to summit to C4 by Sherpas.

  Sherpa Summiters:
    Chhewang Karma, Patle, Okhaldhunga, 28/01/1989
    Lhakpa Tendu (Lhakpa Kormu), Patle, Okhaldhunga, 28/03/1977


expid: EVER17121
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Jacob Schmitz
sponsor: Mountain Trip Everest Expedition 2017
countries: Ecuador, Ireland
bcdate: 2017-04-11
smtdate: 2017-05-22
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2017-05-25
campsites: BC(11/04,5350m),C1(19/04,5900m),C2(23/04,6500m),C3(20/05,7100m),C4(21/05,7950m),Smt(22/05)
accidents: Terry Keleher got frostbite on his left ear (flew to kathmandu from C2).
agency: Expedition Himalaya
routememo:
  Team left C4 on 21 May at 11:30 pm, summited on 22 May at 7:30 am, stayed 30 minutes, then returned to C4 at S Col.

  Chris Jentz went to 7100m on summit push; stopped due to stomach illness.

  Chris Hill stopped at 8300m just below the Balcony. He was not feeling good, moving slowly. Before he was very strong.

  Oxygen: Used from 7100m to the summit and back to 7100m.


expid: EVER17122
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Nicholas White
sponsor: Expedition Himalaya Everest Expedition 2017
countries: China, Czech Republic, Japan, USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-12
smtdate: 2017-05-25
smttime: 0530
termdate: 2017-05-28
campsites: BC(12/04,5400m),C1(25/04,6100m),C2(27/04,6400m),C3(22/05,7100m),C4(23/05,7950m),Smt(25/05)
agency: Expedition Himalaya
routememo:
  BC  12/04  5400m
  C1  25/04  6100m
  C2  27/04  6400m
  C3  22/05  7100m
  C4  23/05  7950m
  Smt 25/05  by White and Sange Sherpa at 5:30 am. 

  High point at C4 (7950m) reached by Palacky, Fojtik, Wada, Pena on 23 May.

  Team got to C4, forecast was good but weather turned out bad and team was stuck at C4 for a longer time than planned. Bad weather, high winds. There was not enough oxygen left for everyone on the team for a summit push. Palacky, Fojtik, Wada and Pena decided to abandon climb on 24 May; only White stayed at C4 and reached the summit with Sange Sherpa. 

  On summit push White and Sange started from C4 at 9:30 pm. They reached South Summit at 5 am and main summit 5:30 am. They stayed on the summit for 10 minutes. Conditions were fine, little wind, clear. They got back to C4 at 11 am. They stayed for the night. Next day they got down to C2. On 27 May back at BC. Left BC on 28 May trekking to Lukla. 

  Pena started descent at 1 pm on 24 May going down to C2. Fojtik and Palacky left BC by helicopter on 25 May. Wada was flown out by helicopter from C2 on 28 May.

  Chinese climber Wei An-Jie was on the same permit, but the team never got to see him during the expedition. Wei was evacuated from C2 weeks before according to Pena.

  Oxygen:
    Used by Pena and Palacky from start of Lhotse face to C4 and down to C2, 
    By White and Sange from C3 to the summit and down to C2
    By Fojtik and Wada from C3 to C4 and down to C2
    By other Sherpas from C3 to C4 and down to C2. 

  Sherpa:
    Sange Sherpa, Sotang, 20/9/1973


expid: EVER17123
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Ryan Waters
sponsor: Mountain Professionals Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2017
countries: Norway, Sweden
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-10
smtdate: 2017-05-22
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2017-05-25
campsites: BC(10/04,5350m),C1(15/04,6100m),C2(18/04,6500m),C3(20/05,7300m),C4(21/05,7900m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Himalayan Trailblazer
routememo:
  BC  10/04  5350m
  C1  15/04  6100m
  C2  18/04  6500m
  C3  20/05  7300m
  C4  21/05  7900m
  Smt 22/05  by Waters, Gravir, Bergseth, Bombardier, Riten Jangbu, Ngima Ongchhu,
             Ngima Kanchha, Mingmar, Prakash Chandra Sundas at 9:30 am.

  Summit team, Lundstrom and Falkum Lien left C4 at 11 pm on 21 May. 

  Falkum Lien reached about 8600m, she got tired and was late. She turned around at about 10:15 am and descended to C4.

  Lundstrom reached about 8200m. He was too slow and turned around at about 10:15 am and descended to C4.

  Rest carried on and reached the summit at 9:30 am. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 4 pm. 

  On 23 May it was very windy. Team descended to C2 and on 24 May everyone at BC.

  On 21 May at C2 and 22 May to BC.they arrived at about 5 pm.

  Left BC 25 May by helicopter.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top or high point to C3 by members
    Sherpas from C4 to top to C4.

  Sherpas:
    Riten Jangbu Sherpa, Sindupalchowk, Ghorthali-2 (33)
    Ngima Ongchhu Sherpa, Solukhumbu, Chaurikarkha-8 (32)
    Ngima Kanchha, Namche-7, Solukhumbu (37)
    Mingmar, Taksindu-4, Solukhumbu (27)
    Prakash Chandra Sundas, Chaurikharka-8, Solukhumbu (32)


expid: EVER17124
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Slovakia
leaders: Peter Abaffy
sponsor: Slovak Everest Expedition 2017
bcdate: 2017-04-20
smtdate: 2017-05-19
termdate: 2017-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to exhaustion and bad weather
campsites: BC(20/04,5400m),C1(26/04,6100m),C2(28/04,6400m),C3(18/05,7000m),C4(19/05,7800m),xxx
agency: Utmost Adventure
routememo:
  BC  20/04  5400m
  C1  26/04  6100m	
  C2  28/04  6400m		
  C3  18/05  7000m	
  C4  19/05  7800m (Lhotse C4)		
  HPt 19/05  7800 by Abaffy

  Abaffy slept at Lhotse C4 on 19 May. He was tired, as he was climbing without oxygen or Sherpa support. The weather deteriorated and forecast was not good. He decided to abort his summit attempt on 20 May. On 22 May he was back in BC.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


expid: EVER17125
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Sun Bin
sponsor: Summit Experience Chinese Everest Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-19
smtdate: 2017-05-22
smttime: 0200
termdate: 2017-05-29
campsites: BC(19/04,5350m),C1(26/04,6100m),C2(27/04,6500m),C3(09/05,7100m),C4(21/05,7900m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Sherpa Khangri Outdoor
routememo:
  BC  19/04  5350m
  C1  26/04  6100m
  C2  27/04  6500m
  C3  09/05  7100m
  C4  21/05  7900m
  Smt 22/05  by Nima Gyalzen, Jangbu and Pemba Ongchu at 2 am 
             by Lakpa Chhiri, Ang Tshering Lama, Pemba Tamang, Pemba Chhiri, 
             Sange Sherpa, Phurba Thile Sherpa (brother of Nima),
             Jit Bahadur Sherpa and 7 Chinese at 3 am.

  Team left C4 at 7 pm on 21 May. It was a good day, not windy and not cold. Straightforward climb. 

  Rescue of Dawa Sange and Bhatti:

  On the descent Nima Gyalzen, Ang Chhiring Lama, Jangbu Sherpa and Mingma Chhiri Sherpa at about 8700m they found Bhatti the Pakistani and Sange Sherpa at about 3 am. Bhatti was asleep and Dawa Sange Sherpa 95% dead. He had thrown off his gloves and oxygen and was hanging on the rope. Nima Gyalzen removed his oxygen and his spare mask and gave it to Bhatti and Dawa Sange Sherpa. 

  Nima Gyalzen put both sick people on the rope and the four Sherpas dragged them down to C4, where they arrived at 3 pm. There the doctor of IMG gave Bhatti and Sange Sherpa dexamethasone. 

  On 23 May Seven Summit Sherpas brought them to C3, from where Bhatti was long-lined to BC and then to Kathmandu and Dawa Sange Sherpa was left at C3 on his own for the night! On 24/05 he was brought down to C2 and heli-vaced to Kathmandu.

  Left BC:  26 & 29 May	

  Sherpas:
    Nima Gyalzen, Beding, 09/08/1985
    Lakpa Chhiri Sherpa (Dolakha, Khare-7) 04/10/1983 (ID 26606)
    Ang Tshering Lama, Chisapani (guided on Denali) 1st time Everest (45 years)
    Jangbu (2016 Dubai Army team)

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C3.


expid: EVER17126
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Shi Lei
sponsor: Sherpa Kangri Everest Expedition 2017
countries: Denmark, Japan, S Africa
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-18
smtdate: 2017-05-22
smttime: 0412
termdate: 2017-05-28
campsites: BC(18/04,5400m),C1(25/04,6100m),C2(26/04,6500m),C3(29/04,7100m),C4(20/05,7950m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Sherpa Khangri Outdoor
routememo:
  BC  18/04  5400m
  C1  25/04  6100m
  C2  26/04  6500m
  C3  29/04  7100m
  C4  20/05  7950m
  Smt 22/05  by Wang, Gao, Shi and 6 Sherpas at 3:00 am.
  Smt 22/05  by Obata and Ongje Sherpa at 4:00 am.
  Smt 22/05  by Han and Mingma Chhiri Sherpa at 4:12 am.

  Obata summit team, Yamaura and Jenjen Sherpa Bhote left C4 at 7 pm on 21 May. Weather was calm. Masaki reached the South Summit, but had run out of oxygen. His Sherpa gave him his oxygen and they descended to C4. Summit team carried on and reached the summit at 4 am. They stayed for about 30 minutes on the summit. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 8 am. On 23 May to C2 and 24 May to BC. Left BC on 26 May by helicopter.

  Han summit team left C4 at 7:30 pm on 21 May. Weather was calm, not cold. Straightforward climb. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit, and descended to C4, where they arrived at 10 am. They stayed there for two nights and moved to Lhotse C4 on 24 May. Han then summited Lhotse on 25 May with Jit Bahadur. On 26 May Han back to BC and left BC 28 May by helicopter.

  Niebuhr and Singe [Kami Singee Tamang] left C4 at 7 pm on 21 May. Weather was calm. When Niebuhr reached the Balcony he got a pain in his left shoulder, which is probably due to the fact that he can only use one arm. The other one has been paralyzed since he was 8 years old (it happened after a brain surgery). He was thinking of whether to continue or not, but then he saw a dead body on the Balcony and was convinced that he should go down. He thought that he could make it to the top, but probably not back down again. They descended to C4, slept for a few hours and then continued to C2, where they arrived at about noon. On 22 May, back to BC and left BC 26 May by helicopter.

  Hudson was on his way to C4, when at about 7700m he felt absolutely exhausted. He had no power left. He spoke to his Sherpa, Abirail Rai, who told him that it was still be four hours to get to the summit. Hudson was feeling so tired and so slow that he decided to turn back to C3, where they arrived at 6 pm. They stayed there for the night. On 21 May, he descended to C2 the following day and developed a strange cough, coughing up bits of gunk. On 22 May, he went to BC. He wanted to wait for Nicolaj also of Sherpa Kangri, but was feeling so unwell (he was put on oxygen) that he was evacuated by helicopter on 24 May to Grande Hospital. He was there 2 nights.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C3 to high points to C2 by Obata team and Sherpas (apart 
      from Jenjen)
    Taken and used from C3 to summit and down to C4, then to Lhotse C4 to Lhotse top
      and to C2 by Han
    From C3 to summit to C4 by Mingma Chhiri; from C4 to top to C4 by Jit Bahadur
    From C3 to top to C3 by Niebuhr and Singe Sherpa.
    From C3 to 7700m to C3, again at BC (medically) by Hudson.

  Sherpas:
    Jit Bahadur (Thile), Khare-5, Dolakha, 30/07/1978
    Mingma Chhiri, Beding, 19/01/1992
    Ongje (Wangche), Gaurishankar-2, 22/08/1983
    Jenjen Sherpa Bhote


expid: EVER17127
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Hannes Groebner
sponsor: CLEARSKIES Everest Expedition 2017
approach: Rolwaling Valley->Parchamo->Tesi Lapcha->Namche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-25
smtdate: 2017-05-24
termdate: 2017-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to high winds
campsites: BC(25/04,5300m),Biv(28/04),C2(29/04,6500m),C3(05/05,7300m),xxx(24/05,7600m)
agency: Himalayan Trails
routememo:
  BC  25/04  5300m
  C1  28/04
  C2  29/04  6500m
  C3  05/05  7300m
  HPt 24/05 reached at Yellow Band (7600m) by Amon, Groebner at 8 am.

  Leithner fell sick at BC and had to abandon climb. He never got higher than BC and
  left BC on 26 April.

  On their way from C3 to C4, Amon and Groebner decided to turn around at about 7600m because of strong winds. They reached BC at 2 pm. They had taken oxygen for summit push, but never used it.


expid: EVER17128
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Argentina
leaders: German Braillard
sponsor: Vivi Montana Everest Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-11
smtdate: 2017-05-20
termdate: 2017-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 8750m due to lack of oxygen supplies
campsites: BC(11/04,5400m),C1,C2(25/04,6400m),C3(05/05,7200m),C4(19/05,7950m),xxx(20/05,8750m)
accidents: Frostbite Pariz on fingers; Birn on toes and Braillard bad frostbite on fingers and toes
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  BC  11/04  5400m
  C1
  C2  25/04  6400m
  C3  05/05  7200m
  C4  09/05  7950m
  Hpt 20/05  reached by Birn near South Summit 6 am; by Pariz at Balcony at 5 am;
             by Braillard at 8500m.

  On their summit push, Birn and Pariz left C4 at 9 pm on 19 May. Braillard left around midnight, because he was tired when he arrived at C4 earlier that day and needed some more rest before summit push. 

  They were promised by their agency new oxygen bottles at the Balcony, but when Pariz and Birn reached the Balcony, there was no oxygen. Birn and Pariz realized that they would not have enough oxygen to summit and descend safely and decided to turn around. Birn turned around near South Summit, Pariz at the Balcony. 

  They had problems with their Sherpas as well: communication was bad, the climbers felt cheated by their Sherpas and agency. Birn got back to C4 at 8:30 am, Pariz at 6:30 am. Birn's Sherpa had left him alone earlier and was waiting at C4 when he arrived. Birn had to descend alone and he was in bad condition, suffering from frostbite at extremities and having problems with his vision as he was only able to see on one eye.

  Conditions were excellent, a perfect summit day, the team had felt in great mental and physical condition. Had they had the oxygen they were promised by their agency, Pariz and Birn are convinced they would have reached the summit. Birn and Pariz met at C4 and descended to C3, reaching it at 3 pm. Next day, they were rescued by helicopter from C2. 

  They only received news from Braillard on 22 May from the Benegas brothers, who told them that Braillard was on his way to C2. On summit push, Braillard had reached his high point at 8500m, he got separated from his Sherpa Lhakpa and descended alone. He reached C4 in the afternoon around 4 pm. Next day, Braillard went to C3, his Sherpa descended to C2. On 22 May, Braillard reached C2 from where he was evacuated by helicopter, suffering from frostbite. He is in hospital in Kathmandu undergoing treatment. 

  Oxygen: taken and used from C3 to high point and down to C3 by Sherpas and clients.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Sherpa
    Pasang Sherpa 
    Lhakpa [Tshering] Sherpa


expid: EVER17129
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Iran
leaders: Javad Noroozi
sponsor: Mount Everest Human Action Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-19
smtdate: 2017-05-21
smttime: 0530
termdate: 2017-05-23
campsites: BC(19/04,5400m),C1,C2(17/05,6400m),C3(18/05,7200m),C4(19/05,7950m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  BC  19/04  5400m
  C1
  C2  17/05  6400m
  C3  18/05  7200m
  C4  19/05  7950m
  Smt 21/05  by Noroozi at 5:30 am, Lakpa at 6 am.

  Noroozi started at C4 on 20 May at 8 pm. The weather was good, it was cold but not windy (10 km/h). One hour before Hillary Step, Noroozi ran out of oxygen. Immediately he felt cold and dizzy, but decided to continue slowly. He decided to go as far as Hillary Step and then turn around. When he reached Hillary Step he could see the summit and decided to try to reach the summit. He reached the summit alone and stayed on the top for 20 minutes. 

  Phurba Sherpa didn't summit, he got frostbite at his toes and turned around approximately three hours after they left C4. Lakpa Sherpa summited shortly after Noroozi. 

  Noroozi got back to C4 at 11:30 am. He stayed in C4 for 2 hours, then descended alone to C2, reaching it at 9 pm. He reached BC next day at 1:30 pm. Noroozi left BC by helicopter to Lukla on 23 May. 

  Oxygen: 
    Used by Noroozi from a little bit above C3 to ~8700m, on descent from ~8800m
      to C4. 
    By Lakpa from C4 to summit and back to C4.

  Sherpas:
    Phurba Sherpa
    Lakpa Sherpa


expid: EVER17131
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Kenton Cool
sponsor: Kenton Cool Everest Expedition 2016
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-17
smtdate: 2017-05-08
termdate: 2017-05-10
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to lack of fixed roptes
campsites: BC(17/04,5350m),C1(23/04,5800m),C2(24/04,6450m),C3(08/05,7100m),xxx
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  BC  17/04  5350m
  C1  23/04  5800m
  C2  24/04  6450m
  C3  08/05  7100m
  HPt 08/05  7100m by Cool and Owen.

  Cool and Owen reached C3 together with David Tait of Himex. They were going for the summit on 12 May, however, the ropes were not fixed and they were called down by Russell Brice. They decided to abandon the expedition and descended to BC.

  Oxygen: Taken, not used


expid: EVER17130
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Jaroslaw Gawrysiak
sponsor: Polish Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche Peak->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-08
smtdate: 2017-05-19
termdate: 2017-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 7950m due to strong winds
campsites: BC(08/04,5300m),C1,C2(21/04,6400m),C3,C4(06,19/05,7940m),xxx
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Jaroslaw planned to attempt Everest alone with oxygen first, then descend back to Base Camp, meeting Rafal Fronia and Piotr Tomala and trying Lhotse with them without oxygen.

  BC  08/04  5300m
  C1
  C2  21/04  6400m
  C3
  C4  06/05  7950m
  HPt 19/05  7950m by Gawrysiak 
  	
  Gawrysiak wanted to start his summit bid on 19 May. He started packing, but at 9 pm he decided not to go due to bad weather. It was too windy (70 km/h). At 11:30 pm he started his descent from C4. 

  At 12:30 am he found a Korean climber in bad condition a few meters below Lhotse C4. He was without oxygen, had no gloves and started undressing. He couldn't talk. Gawrysiak gave him some of his oxygen. 

  At 6 am on 20 May Gawrysiak reached C3 where he saw a helicopter trying to rescue the Korean climber. In C3 he met his Polish friends Tomala and Fronia, who had just been on Lhotse, and they descended together to C2. On 21 May down to BC.

  Left BC on 23 May, trekking to Lukla.	 

  Oxygen: taken and used by Gawrysiak on the ascent from Yellow Band (~7600m) to C4.


expid: EVER17132
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Norway
leaders: Lisbeth Friberg
sponsor: Lisbeth Everest Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-19
smtdate: 2017-05-20
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2017-05-23
campsites: BC(19/04,5350m),C1(29/04,6100m),C2(30/04,6500m),C3(18/05,7300m),C4(19/05,7900m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Top Himalaya Guides
routememo:
  BC  19/04  5350m
  C1  29/04  6100m
  C2  30/04  6500m
  C3  18/05  7300m
  C4  19/05  7900m
  Smt 20/05  by Friberg, Tshering Sonam Lama, Chhiring Lama at 10:30 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 9 pm on 19 May. It was windy but clear. Straightforward climb. They spent about half an hour on the summit. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 6 pm. It was a little bit windy that night. On 21 May at C2 and 22 May to BC. Left BC on 23 May by helicopter.

  Sherpas:
    Tshering Sonam Lama
    Chhiring Lama

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from 6500m to top to 6500m by Friberg 
    C3 to top to C3 by Sherpas


expid: EVER17134
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Kosovo
leaders: Flutura Ibrahimi
sponsor: Kosovoan Everest Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-05-07
smtdate: 2017-05-22
smttime: 0505
termdate: 2017-05-23
campsites: BC(07/05,5350m),C1(08/05,6100m),C2(09/05,6500m),C3(17/05,7370m),C4(21/05,7900m),Smt(22/05)
agency: TAGnepal Trekking
routememo:
  BC  07/05  5350m
  C1  08/05  6100m
  C2  09/05  6500m
  C3  17/05  7370m
  C4  21/05  7900m
  Smt 22/05  by Ibrahimi, Tendi, Ngwang Pasang, Bijaya Ghimire, Suman Gurung, 
             Fur Gyeljan at 5:05 am.

  First attempt was to summit on the 19 May. They reached to about 7850m but it was too windy and they descended back to C2. On 19 May, they rested at C2, on 20 May back to C3, 21 May to C4. 

  Summit team left C4 at 8:30 pm on 21 May. The weather was calm and clear. Straightforward climb. They spent 45 minutes on the summit. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 10 am; they rested there for 2 hours and then to C2, where they arrived at about 4:30 pm. On 23 May back to BC. 

  Left BC by 23 May by helicopter.	

  Sherpas:
    Tendi Sherpa, Gudel-4, Solukhumbu, (2033-08-17) 
    Ngwang Pasang Sherpa, Waku-4, Solukhumbu, (2043-07-10)
    Bijaya Ghimire BISWOKARMA (BISHWOKARMA), Garma-9, Solukhumbu, 23/01/1991
      Exp Cook/High Altitude Porter
    Suman Gurung, Laprak-7, Gorkha, (2042-06-11) (1st Summit)
    Fur Gyeljan Sherpa, Waku-4, Solukhumbu, (2040-09-16) (1st Summit)

  Bijaya Ghimire is the first Dalit to summit Mount Everest!

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C3 to summit to C2 by member
    From C4 to summit to C4 by Sherpas

  On her acclimatization trip, Flutura trekked and tried together with some Swiss (On Return to follow) to climb the South Face of Yaupa.


expid: EVER17135
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Neil Ward
sponsor: Adventures Global Everest & Lhotse 2017
countries: New Zealand
approach: Lukla->Namche->Island Peak->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-13
smtdate: 2017-05-20
termdate: 2017-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to Sherpa feeling unwell
campsites: BC(13/04,5350m),C1(15/04,6100m),C2(15/04,6500m),C3(21/04,7100m),C4(20/05,7900m),xxx
agency: Dream Himalaya Adventures
routememo:
  BC  13/04  5350m
  C1  15/04  6100m
  C2  15/04  6500m	
  C3  21/04  7100m	
  C4  20/05  7900m
  HPt 20/05  7900m by Ward and Tendi Sherpa.

  On 21 April Ward had already reached 7700m for acclimatization. He was intending to summit Everest and Lhotse without oxygen. He was hoping for a weather window, but it never arrived. Between the time when he had reached 7700m and his summit push, he stayed at BC and went down to Deboche.

  When it came to his summit push, he felt that too many people were on the route and decided to use oxygen. He had taken 3 bottles with him, just in case.

  On 20 May at about 10 pm, the winds dropped. However, Tendi was not feeling well and Ward was worried about the amount of people going up that night and he decided to abandon this climb.

  On 21 May they headed down at 7 am and descended to C2 as Tendi was still not feeling better. On 22 May at BC.

  Deerness and Smith reached about 5500m at the end of April. Deerness was not feeling up for the climb and abandoned the expedition. Smith was part of her team (business partners) and joined her. They left BC beginning of May.

  Anshu Jamsenpa (also on Dream Himalaya permit) summited on 16 May and 21 May. Ward saw her at BC in between both summits.


expid: EVER17136
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Anshu Jamsenpa
sponsor: Everest Again Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-11
smtdate: 2017-05-16
smttime: 0915
termdate: 2017-05-25
agency: Dream Himalaya Adventures
campsites:
  BC(11/04,5400m),C1(19/04,6100m),C2(20/04,6400m),C3(14/05,7300m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(16/05); C2(19/05,6400m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(21/05)

routememo:
  BC  11/04  5400m
  C1  19/04  6100m
  C2  20/04  6400m
  C3  14/05  7300m
  C4  15/05  7900m
  Smt 16/05  by Jamsenpa and Phuri Sherpa at 9:15 am.

  On 15 May summit team left C4 at 9:30 pm. On the ascent Jamsenpa had problems with her oxygen mask and by the time she got to the summit, she felt a little bit dizzy. As the team was carrying a spare mask, she changed it on the summit. They spent about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 2 pm. On 17 May they descended to BC, where they arrived at 4:30 pm.

  They rested at BC on 18 May and left BC again on 19 May at 3:30 am for her second summit push.

  C2  19/05  6400m
  C4  20/05  7900m
  Smt 21/05  by Jamsenpa, Phuri and Chhong Karma (brothers) at 8 am.

  They started from C4 at 10:45 pm. This time it was very windy and Jamsenpa saw many people in very bad conditions. This was also the day Roland Yearwood died on the Balcony. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit. It was very windy. They descended to C4, where they arrived at noon. On 22 May to C2 and 23 May to BC.

  Jamsenpa is the first woman to summit Everest within 4 days and 22 hours from base camp. 

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 for Jamsenpa and Chhong Karma
    Phuri from C4 to top to C4 both times.


expid: EVER17137
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Takanobu Kajiyama
sponsor: ISG Ishii Sports Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche East Pk->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-24
smtdate: 2017-05-25
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2017-05-28
campsites: BC(24/04,5400m),C1(01/05,6100m),C2(03/05,6400m),C3(22/05,7000m),C4(23/05,7950m),Smt(25/05)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC  24/04  5400m
  C1  01/05  6100m (4 pax)
  C2  03/05  6400m
  C3  22/05  7000m
  C4  23/05  7950m (Everest)

  Summit Everest on 25 May by Inaoka, Sasaki, Harayama, Kajiyama, Arakawa, Okuda, 6 Sherpas at 7 am.

  Summit Lhotse on 26 May by Arakawa, Okuda, Harayama, Kajiyama, Phura Chhiri, Chhepa Sherpa.

  On summit push the Everest team started from C4 at 10 pm. The weather was fine. They got to the top at different times in the morning. Inaoka reached the summit at 7 am and stayed for 30 minutes.

  The team got back to C4 around noon. On 26 May Inaoka and Sasaki went down to C2. In C2 the Everest and Lhotse teams met again. Everyone was back at BC on 27 May.

  Left BC on 28 May by helicopter.

  Oxygen: taken and used from C3 to summit and down to C3 by clients and Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Phura Chhiri Sherpa, 05/10/1969, Lokhim-9, Solukhumbu
    Chhepa Sherpa, 29/10/1983, Sotang-6, Solukhumbu
    Kitab Singh Tamang, 30/08/1976, Deusa-6, Solukhumbu
    Dawa Jangbu Lama, 06/02/1987	Beni-2, Solukhumbu
    Da Kalzang Sherpa, 20/01/1986, Lokhim-9, Solukhumbu
    Pasang Nima Sherpa, 25/03/1979, Lokhim-4, Solukhumbu


expid: EVER17138
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Hungary
leaders: David Klein
sponsor: Hungarian Everest Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-07
smtdate: 2017-05-25
termdate: 2017-05-28
termnote: Abandoned at 8130m due to winds and lateness in the day
campsites: BC(07/04,5350m),C1(15/04,6100m),C2(19/04,6450m),C3(22/04,7200m),C4(08,24/05,7900m),xxx(25/05,8130m)
agency: Climbalaya
routememo:
  BC  07/04  5350m
  C1  15/04  6100m
  C2  19/04  6450m
  C3  22/04  7200m
  C4  08/05  7900m
  HPt 25/05  8130m by Klein, Pemba Tenzing, Ang Pasang at 11:30 pm.

  High Point team left C4 on 25 May at 9:30 pm. The reason they started so late was that it was too windy earlier. Klein was without oxygen. It was very windy and cold. Ang Pasang was scared of getting frostbite on his feet. According to Klein the winds were pretty high (around 50km/h to 70 km/h) and it was too hard to carry on without oxygen. They descended to C4, where they arrived 12:30 am on 26 May. 
  They stayed the night there, Klein and the Sherpa were sleeping on oxygen. On 26 May, they descended to C2 and on 27 May at BC.

  Suhajda reached C4 on 8 May on the acclimatization rotation. When Klein was leaving C2 for the summit push, Suhajda decided to go back to BC as he was sick (vomiting and diarrhea) and could not sleep. He felt too weak to go for a summit push.

  Team left BC on 28 May by helicopter.

  Oxygen:
    Suhajda did not use oxygen
    Taken and used for sleeping at C4 on descent by Klein
    Taken and used from C4 to high point to 7600m by Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Tenzing, Thamo, 23/08/1976
    Ang Pasang, Thami, 19/06/1967


expid: EVER17139
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Mariana Kyrgys
sponsor: Seven Summit Club Everest Expedition 2017
bcdate: 2017-04-20
smtdate: 2017-05-21
termdate: 2017-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 8650m due to Sherpa running out of oxygen and leaving Kyrsys alone
campsites: BC(20/04,5400m),C1(27/04,6100m),C2(28/04,6500m),C3(19/05,7200m),C4(20/05,7950m),xxx(21/05,8650m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks/Yeti Expeditions
routememo:
  BC  20/04  5400m	
  C1  27/04
  C2  28/04  6500m
  C3  19/05  7200m
  C4  20/05  7950m
  HPt 21/05  8650m by Kyrgys and Lhakpa Sherpa at 8:25 am.
  		
  They started at C4 on 20 May at 8 pm. Weather was good, not much wind. Upon reaching 8650m, Lhakpa ran out of oxygen and descended quickly, leaving Kyrgys alone. Kyrgys had enough oxygen left, but didn't want to continue alone. She got back to C4 at 5 pm. On 22 May she went down to C2, on 23 May to BC. Kyrgys left BC on 24 May by helicopter.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used by Kyrgys from C3 to high point and back to 7500m
    By Lhakpa from C3 to 8650m. 


expid: EVER17140
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Karl Nesseler
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Everest Expedition 2017
approach: Jir->Lukla->Namche->Lobuche East->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-16
smtdate: 2017-05-25
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2017-05-27
campsites: BC(16/04,5400m),C1(6100m),C2(24/04,6390m),C3(20/05,7410m),C4(22/05,7950m),Smt(25/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  16/04  5400m
  C1         6100m
  C2  24/04  6390m
  C3  20/05  7410m
  C4  22/05  7950m
  Smt 25/05  by Nesseler and Phura Jangbu at 7:30 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 11:45 pm on 24 May. Weather was clear and cold. Straightforward climb. Stayed about 40 minutes on the summit. After the summit they descended to C2 with all their gear. They carried about 30kg each and arrived at C2 at 10:30 pm.

  On 26 May to BC with even more gear. The pair was climbing unsupported and carried everything themselves. Left BC on 27 May.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C4 to summit C4 by Phura Jangbu and Nesseler
    Slept for two nights at C4 on one bottle each.

  Sherpa:
    Phura Jangbu Sherpa, Upper Pangboche, 13/04/1997

  Nessler: Phura Jangbu Sherpa (21) from Upper Pangboche, long time friend and assistant trekking guide for our EBC group treks, summited Everest in 2016 for the first time.


expid: EVER17141
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Elisabeth Revol
sponsor: Revol Makalu-Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2017
approach: Helicopter from Makalu via Lukla
bcdate: 2017-05-16
smtdate: 2017-05-27
termdate: 2017-05-28
termnote: Abandoned at 8500m due to bad weather
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-171-14), attempted Makalu (MAKA-171-09)
campsites: BC(16/05,5350m),C1(25/05,6200m),C2(25/05,6500m),C3(26/05,7000m),C4(26/05,7800m),xxx(27/05,8500m)
agency: Mountain Experience
primid: MAKA17109
routememo:
  Revol was attempting the first ascent of Makalu, Everest and Lhotse in the same season.

  Revol stopped 8445m on Makalu on 10 May because the rope was not fixed all the way to the summit.

  Revols summited Lhotse on 20 May.

  Revol turned back from her Everest attempt on 27 May between 4-5 am after leaving Lhotse C4 (7800m) at 9 pm on 26 May. She descended to C2 and then to BC the following day 28 May and left BC that day.


expid: EVER17142
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Sun Ye
sponsor: Seven Brothers Everest Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-10
smtdate: 2017-05-16
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2017-05-23
campsites: BC(10/04,5350m),C1(18/04,6100m),C2(19/04,6500m),C3(21/04,7100m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Seven Brothers Summiters/Himalayan Human Adventure
routememo:
  BC  10/04  5350m
  C1  18/04  6100m
  C2  19/04  6500m
  C3  21/04  7100m
  C4  15/05  7900m
  HPt 16/05  by Sun Ye and Thundu at 9 am
            [also by Jiang Hua, [Long Wen] and Nima Gombu at 6:30 am].

  Summit team left C4 at 9 pm on 15 May. It was calm and clear. Straightforward climb. They spent about half an hour on summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 1 pm. On 17 May Camp 2 and BC on 18 May. Left BC on 19 May.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to summit to C3 by Sun Ye and Sherpa.

  Sherpas:
    Thundu Sherpa, Beding, 18/02/1978
    Nima Gombu Sherpa, Beding, 02/01/69
    Danurbu Sherpa 
    Mingma Sherpa 
    Karma Gyaljen Sherpa 


expid: EVER17143
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: John Wood
sponsor: British Everest Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-17
smtdate: 2017-05-20
smttime: 0945
termdate: 2017-05-22
campsites: BC(17/04,5350m),C1(21/04,6100m),C2(22/04,6500m),C3(18/05,7370m),C4(19/05,7900m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Himalayan Ski Trek (Satori Adventures pmt)
routememo:
  BC  17/04  5350m
  C1  21/04  6100m
  C2  22/04  6500m
  C3  18/05  7370m
  C4  19/05  7900m
  Smt 20/05  by Wood, Morton, Mingma Gyabu Sherpa at 9:45 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 11 pm on 19 May. When they left camp the wind dropped. Straightforward climb. They saw Roland Yearwood (the man who died) and overtook him just below the Balcony. They stayed about 10 minutes on the summit. Wood and Mingma descended to C3, where they arrived at 5 pm and Morton to C2 arrived at 9 pm.

  On the way down, Wood saw Yearwood above the Balcony sitting on a rock at about 11 am. Wood asked him whether he was Ok, and he said yes. He was just enjoying the view.  

  21 May all back at BC and left by helicopter the next day.

  Sherpa:
    Mingma Gyabu, Sakathum, Lelep-7, 16/05/1989

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C2 to top to C2 by Wood, 
    C3 to top to C2 by Morton; C4 to top to C4 by Mingma.


expid: EVER17144
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Umesh Zirpe
sponsor: Giripremi Everest Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-07
smtdate: 2017-05-23
termdate: 2017-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 8600m due to high winds
campsites: BC(07/04,5350m),C1(27/04,6100m),C2(04/05,6500m),C3(21/05,7300m),C4(22/05,7900m),xxx(23/05,8600m)
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  BC  07/04  5350m
  C1  27/04  6100m
  C2  04/05  6500m
  C3  21/05  7300m
  C4  22/05  7900m
  HPt 23/05  8600m (near South Summit) by Chawale, Phurba Dorje and Tenzing 
             Sherpa at 7 am.

  High point team left C4 at 10 pm on 22 May. It was windy, however, it was Ok. The winds increased and reached about 90km/h. The weather forecast was bad. They only had one oxygen bottle each and were stuck behind a big team at the South Summit. Chawale radioed to Zirpe, who was at BC and Zirpe told him to turn back at 7 am. He reached South Col at 11 am, where he stayed the night. The wind was increasing and he was exhausted. He descended to C2 on 24 May. Chawale also had knee pain and they were trying to helicopter him to Kathmandu.

  Zirpe had chest pain at 6800m (bottom of Lhotse face). He was rescued to BC by helicopter. Vishal stayed with them.

  Team left BC on 24 May be helicopter.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to high point to C3 by Chawale and Sherpas.


expid: EVER17145
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Slovakia
leaders: Vladimir Strba
sponsor: Slovakian Everest Expedition 2017
smtdate: 2017-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 8750m due to exhaustion (and AMS?)
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,xxx(20/05,8750m)
accidents: Died of AMS at C4
agency: Utmost Adventure
routememo:
  On his summit push Strba left C4 on 19 May in the evening. He didn't reach the summit, but turned around at South Summit. On the descent he got into trouble. Strba had to spend the night on 20 May alone in the open at the Balcony. 

  One foreign climber and one Sherpa found him at the Balcony next day and helped him down to C4. Support staff of Utmost Adventure applied first aid and gave him oxygen, but it was too late. Strba died on 21 May at 5 pm in C4.

  Strba had been climbing alone and without oxygen. Utmost Adventure provided BC, C1 and C2 support, after that Strba climbed unsupported.


  From Madison Mountaineering report (EVER-171-15):

  21 May summit team, Brent Bishop and Tashi Sherpa left C4 at midnight. Bishop and Tashi encountered the Slovak climber Vladimir Strba, who was ataxic. They found him at about 3:30 am, roped him up and carried and dragged him down to C4. It took them about 5 hours. They put him into a tent and gave him an oxygen bottle and put it on 4 litres a minute. They also gave him dex. Rob Smith from Adventure Consultants then took over as Bishop and Tashi were exhausted and needed to rest. Strba died in the afternoon on 21 May. He was brought down to the bottom of the Lhotse Face and picked up by helicopter.


expid: EVER17146
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: W Ridge-SE Ridge-W Face of Lhotse
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Ueli Steck
sponsor: Ueli Steck Everest-Lhotse Traverse
smtdate: 2017-04-29
termnote: Abandoned due to fatal accident on Nuptse
campsites: BC,C1,C2(29/04,6400m),xxx
agency: Royal Orchid Treks
routememo:
  Ueli Steck died 30 April on Nuptse from falling during an acclimatization climb.

  From Ueli Steck family media release:

  On April 29, 2017, Ueli Steck ascended from the Everest base camp to camp 2 on about 6400 meters above sea level. His original plan was to climb the next day for further acclimatization on the Everest traditional route to the almost 8000 meters high south col, in order to return to camp 2 on the same day.

  From camp 2, Ueli noted that the conditions in the Nuptse wall were ideal, which is why he decided in the evening to change his plan and to climb up to Nuptse the following day.

  On April 30, 2017, Ueli started at 4:30 am. Together with the Frenchman Yannick Graziani, he crossed the gaping glacier. Afterwards, Graziani continued on the Everest normal route towards Camp 3, while Ueli entered into the Lhotse flank. Ueli's accident occurred on around 7600 meters at about 09.00 (local time). His body was finally recovered by the Italian helicopter pilot Maurizio Folini at a height of about 6600 meters and transferred to the hospital of Katmandu.

  The cause of the accident is still unknown.


expid: EVER17148
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Ravi Kumar
sponsor: Ravi Kumar Everest Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-16
smtdate: 2017-05-20
smttime: 1328
campsites: BC(16/04,5300m),C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(20/05)
agency: Arun Treks (Seven Summit Treks pmt)
routememo:
  From Himalayan Times, 21 May 2017, Rajan Pokhrel

  Chhewang Sherpa, Managing Director at Arun Treks, said that Ravi Kumar, a climber from Moradabad of Uttar Pradesh, India, has gone out of contact from the balcony area after he was descending to lower camps after successfully standing atop the world’s highest peak at 1:28 pm on Saturday.

  According to him, his climbing guide Lakpa Wongya Sherpa has also been found unconscious after suffering from frostbite at Camp IV. Ravi Kumar and the climbing guide got separated during the descent, he added. "Efforts are underway to conduct a search for the missing climber."


  From Himalayan Times, 22 May 2017, Rajan Pokhrel

  Chhowang Sherpa, Managing Director at Arun Treks, confirmed that a search and rescue team of Sherpa climbers spotted the body of Ravi Kumar, a climber frmo Moradabad in Uttar Pradesh, some 200 metres below the climbing route.

  The 27-year-old climber had been out of contact since he was descending alone from the Balcony to lower camps after successfully standing atop Mt. Everest from the Nepali side at 1:28 pm on Saturday.

  Ravi failed to make it to lower camp after his climbing guide, Lakpa Wongya Sherpa, also fell unconscious after suffering from frostbite. Sherpa, however, had managed to descend to Camp IV.


expid: EVER17149
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Sushil Sherma Limbu
sponsor: Limbu Everest Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-18
smtdate: 2017-05-20
smttime: 0853
termdate: 2017-05-23
campsites: BC(),C1(),C2(),C3(),C4(),Smt(19/05)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  BC  18/04  5300m
  C1  07/05  5900m
  C2  08/05  6400m
  C3  18/05  7300m
  C4  19/05  7900m
  Smt 20/05 by Sherma and Ang Furba Sherpa.

  Sherma and Ang Phurba started their summit push from C4 at 8 pm of 19 May. They reached summit at 8:53 am of 20 May and stayed on summit for about 10 minutes, then descended to C4 where they arrived at 3 pm.

  At about 11 pm Lakpa Sherpa who was with Ravi Kumar (India) came to their tent with snowblindness. Lakpa told them Ravi Kumar was dead. Lakpa was given hot water frequently that night and also on 21 May they stayed at C4 until Lakpa recovered. On 22 May they spent night at C2. On 23 May they went down to BC. Left BC by helicopter same day.

  Ahead of Sherma  team there were 4-5 climbers on the summit. They came across about 10-12 climbers while descending. Sherma team met Ravi Kumar and Lakpa at Hillary Step coming up. 

  Sherma shared permit with Ms. Bhumira Gurung.

  Oxygen: Used from C3 to summit to C3 by Sherma and Sherpa.

  Sherpa:
    Ang Furba Sherpa, 28/05/1989 (15/02/2046), Jubing-1, Solukhumbu
      First time from south side.  
      2013 Everest N with Nima Nuru Sherpa of Thami (Thamserku)[??]
      2014 Manaslu and 2015 Dhaulagiri, both with Pasang Rita of Juving-1 
         (Himalayan Expeditions)[??]

   


expid: NUPT17101
peakid: NUPT
year: 2017
route1: N Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Ueli Steck
sponsor: Ueli Steck Everest-Lhotse Traverse
smtdate: 2017-04-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to fatal accident
campsites: BC,C1,C2(29/04,6400m),xxx(30/04,7600m)
agency: Royal Orchid Treks
routememo:
  Ueli Steck died 30 April on Nuptse from falling during an acclimatization climb.

  From Ueli Steck family media release:

  On April 29, 2017, Ueli Steck ascended from the Everest base camp to camp 2 on about 6400 meters above sea level. His original plan was to climb the next day for further acclimatization on the Everest traditional route to the almost 8000 meters high south col, in order to return to camp 2 on the same day.

  From camp 2, Ueli noted that the conditions in the Nuptse wall were ideal, which is why he decided in the evening to change his plan and to climb up to Nuptse the following day.

  On April 30, 2017, Ueli started at 4:30 am. Together with the Frenchman Yannick Graziani, he crossed the gaping glacier. Afterwards, Graziani continued on the Everest normal route towards camp 3, while Ueli went to the North Wall. Ueli's accident occurred on around 7600 meters at about 09.00 (local time). His body was finally recovered by the Italian helicopter pilot Maurizio Folini at a height of about 6600 meters and transferred to the hospital of Kathmandu.

  The cause of the accident is still unknown.


  In the following article, journalist and climber, Billi Bierling, pays tribute to her friend Ueli Steck, the Swiss elite climber who died on Sunday on an Everest expedition. 

  Ueli Steck: Climbing in the here and now

  Since I first met Ueli in 2007 I got to know him rather well - partially because of the Himalayan Database (former journalist Elizabeth Hawley's authoritative record of mountaineering expeditions since the early 20th century to more than 300 significant Nepalese peaks) and the work I do for ‘Miss Hawley’ and partially on a private basis.

  What I liked about Ueli was his modesty and the fact that despite his amazing achievements he was down to earth - never arrogant. When you look at the CV on his website, it says: Profession: “trained carpenter” even before he lists all his incredible mountaineering achievements.

  It was always a pleasure to see him in Kathmandu and talk to him about his climbs for the records of Miss Hawley's Himalayan Database. Every once in a while, I also interviewed him as a journalist, and in particular for swissinfo.ch. He always took the time to talk to me, even though he hardly ever stayed in Kathmandu for longer than 24 hours.

  I remember the incident with the Sherpas in 2013. At the time, I was at Everest Base Camp and of course, I received a phone call that I wasn't necessarily looking forward to from Dale Bechtel, editor of the English service of swissinfo.ch, asking me whether I could interview Ueli. I did not want to bother Ueli with this as he was more to me than just a ‘subject’ for a good story - he was a friend. But still - I am a journalist at heart and so I went to see him. At first he said that he would not talk to the media but in the evening he came over to our camp and told me that he trusted me and that he would talk to me. I really appreciated it and the conversation revealed how shaken he had been by the whole event.

  ‘Swiss Machine’ label

  One thing Ueli did not particularly like was the term ‘Swiss Machine.’ He was branded with it, but he never warmed to this description of his abilities; so reading it all over the media now makes me almost sad. He was much more than a machine – he was a kind, down-to-earth and rather introverted person.

  We all know that he was extraordinary - I don't need to go into this. But I feel fortunate that I got to know Ueli personally and was lucky enough to enjoy his trust. I remember after he had got back from the South Face of Annapurna I, it did not take very long for the first doubters to emerge. I was trekking in the Khumbu when I received an email from a journalist trying to dig up some dirt about the ascent.

  It really shocked me that so shortly after this impressive climb, people were already trying to break him. I sent him a quick text to warn him and he just replied: “Thanks - it's great to have friends like you.” It makes me very sad that to this very day, people doubt his ascent of Annapurna I and of course, only Ueli knows whether he reached the top or not. But both Miss Hawley and I have always believed him as we are convinced that he was absolutely capable of doing this. I think a lot of the doubts came from the fact that people did not think it was feasible to do - but with Ueli it was. He made the impossible possible.

  Annapurna chapter

  When I heard about this tragic accident on Sunday morning, I was in the midst of translating his latest book, which I have been working on for the past two months. Ueli and I were very excited that one of his books was finally going to be published in the English-speaking world as he had always wanted to have an English version of one of his works. So I have lived and breathed Ueli for the past two months. I would like to share an excerpt from the Annapurna South Face chapter, which I re-read several times after I had heard about his accident. Maybe this section can help us better understand, where Ueli was coming from.

  Book excerpt

  “I was completely detached from the other world. There was nothing else but climbing. No goal, no future, no past. I was climbing in the here and now. One swing of the ice axe after the other; one step after the other. I only saw my ice axes and how they penetrated the snow and ice. My view narrowed and I had adopted some sort of tunnel vision. And here I was; in the middle of this gigantic face with very limited equipment. I felt light, but also extremely exposed. I knew that the tiniest mistake would mean certain death. However, I was not scared of making a mistake. I was still giving orders and controlling the person climbing the south face of Annapurna. It did not feel like me. If this person fell, it would not really concern me.”

  I remember when I once asked him how he could possibly not be scared when scaling such gigantic steep faces without a rope, he responded: “Climbing is like walking the stairs. I never expect to slip and fall. Do you?” And this is exactly how he viewed climbing - like walking the stairs. But unfortunately, on Sunday these stairs became fatal for him. It is a great loss for the climbing community; a great loss for his friends and family and of course a huge loss for his wife Nicole. My thoughts are with all of them and I will certainly remember Ueli as an amazing climber, a good friend and an inspiration for a lot of people. Despite his fervor for speedy ascents, he never lost his love and passion for the mountains.


expid: EVER17150
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Bhumira Gurung
sponsor: Stop Global Warming Mt. Everest Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Dingboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-21
smtdate: 2017-05-21
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2017-05-24
campsites: BC(21/04,5300m),C1(01/05,6100m),C2(02/05,6500m),C3(19/05,6900m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  21/04  5300m
  C1  01/05  6100m approx
  C2  02/05  6500m approx
  C3  19/05  6900m
  C4  20/05  7900m
  Smt 21/05 by Gurung and Fursang Sherpa at 3 pm.

  Gurung and Fursang left C4 at 11 pm on 20 May for the summit in windy weather condition which later receded. They reached summit at 3 pm on 21 May. They stayed on summit for about 30 minutes and descended C4 at 8 pm. Next day on 22 May spent night at C2. On 23 May they went down to BC. Left BC 24 May by helicopter.

  Ahead of Gurung team the Pakistani climber and his Sherpa were on the summit. Climber from Peruvian Victor Rimac (Seven Summit Treks) without supplementary oxygen and without Sherpa support was on summit almost at the same time of Gurung.

  Oxygen: Gurung used C3-summit-C3; Sherpa from C4-summit-C4.

  Record: Second female from Gurung community to summit Everest.

  She shared permit with Sushil Sherma who was with Arun Treks. The expedition was sponsored by Gurung Tourism Entrepreneurs Association of Nepal. 


expid: EVER17151
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Africa
leaders: Wilmien Van der Merwe
sponsor: Makalu Adventure Everest Expedition 2017
countries: Malaysia
approach: Lukla->Namche->Dingboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-12
smtdate: 2017-05-20
smttime: 0845
termdate: 2017-05-28
othersmts: Summited Lobuche on 25 April
campsites: BC(12/04,5300m),C1(25/04,6100m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(18/05,7200m),C4(19/05,7900m),Smt(20,25/05)
accidents: Hachoodan frostbitten toe and hand (not serious)
achievment: First vegan from Malaysia
agency: Makalu Adventure
routememo:
  Report from Raman Hachoodan:

  BC  12/04  5300m
  C1  25/04  6100m
  C2  26/04  6400m
  C3  18/05  7200m
  C4  19/05  7900m
  Smt 20/05  by Hachoodan and Gelje Sherpa at 8:45 am
  Smt 25/05  by Van der Merwe and Tenjen Sherpa at 4:30 am.

  Hachoodan and Gelje Sherpa started their summit push from C4 at 9 pm of 19 May. They reached summit at 8:45 am of 20 May; it was windy and cold so they did not stay on summit just touched and descended to C4 where they arrived between 2 pm to 3 pm. They have video clip of summit. The photograph was taken below 50 to 60m of summit. Next day on 21 May the team went down to C2. Hachoodan was heli-lifted from C2 to Lukla on 22 May. On descent Gelje's one eye was snowblind. Ahead of this team there were four climbers descending from summit they cross above South Summit.

  Hachoodan summited Lobuche on 25 April with Gelje.

  Van der Merwe and Tenjen Sherpa at 4:30 am on 25 May.

  Oxygen: Hochoodan used C3-summit-C3; Gelje Sherpa C4-summit-C4.

  Sherpas:
    [Pem] Gelje Sherpa, Waku-9, 03/05/73 (21/01/2030)
    Tenjen Sherpa


  Report from Wilmien Van de Merve:

  BC  12/04  5300m
  C1  19/04  5900m
  C2  25/04  6300m
  C3  05/05  7000m
  C4  22/05  7900m (stayed there in jet stream wind on 23-24/05)
  Smt 25/05  by Merwe and Phurba [Tenjen?] Sherpa.

  Oxygen: C3-summit-C3, Sherpa same.

  Record: 4th South African woman to summit Everest

  Merwe and Phurba [Tenjen?] left C4 on 24 May at 19.00 hrs. They reached summit at 4:30 am of 25 May. They stayed on summit approximately 40 minutes. They got back to C4 around 9 am, rested there for about 2 hours to boil water and pack up then moved down to sleep at C2. On 26 May went down to BC.

  Left BC on 28 May.

  Merwe wrote in her email “Managed to summit Mt Everest on 25 May 2017, 4:30 the morning and in time for the most spectacular sunrise in all of God's creation”.

  “It was truly something special and blessed to have had a clear windless day with views over Lhotse, Makalu and far into Nepal and Tibet”.

  “This was such a privilege for her to let me admire the view from the top”


expid: EVER17152
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Samir Nicholas Patham
sponsor: Mission Everest 2017
approach: Lukla->Namche->Dingboche->Island Pk->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-16
smtdate: 2017-05-18
termdate: 2017-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to bad weather above S Col
othersmts: Summited Island Pk
campsites: BC(16/04,5367m),C1(24/04,6100m),C2(25/04,6450m),C3(17/05,7100m),C4(18/05,7900m),xxx
agency: Mega Adventures (Dream Himalaya pmt)
routememo:
  BC  16/04  5367m
  C1  24/04  6100m
  C2  25/04  6450m
  C3  17/05  7100m
  C4  18/05  7900m
  HPt 18/05  7900m by Vikas Dimri, Sauraj Jhingan, Samir Nicholas Patham, Jangbu, 
             Samden, Dawa Ongel and Pasang Gelu.

  Climb abandoned on 19 May due to bad weather above S Col (high wind 90-100kph). 

  Left BC on 22 May by helicopter.

  Island peak summited all three members and 3 Sherpas on 13 April.

  The team was planning to go to summit on 19 May, but due to high wind above South Col, they went down to C2 on 19 May. Next day 20 May got to BC.

  Oxygen: Used C3-C4-C3 by members and Sherpas.


expid: EVER17153
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Jang Hun-Moo
sponsor: Yes Gumi Seven Summits Expedition
approach: Lukla->Thangnag->Mera Pk->Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Lobuche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-23
smtdate: 2017-05-21
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2017-05-23
othersmts: Summited Mera Peak on 12 April
campsites: BC(23/04,5400m),C1(27/04,6000m),C2(28/04,6400m),C3(07/05,7300m),C4(19/05,7900m),Smt(21/05)
accidents: Frostbitten toe and hand of PARK (serious)
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal
routememo:
  BC  23/04  5400m
  C1  27/04  6000m
  C2  28/04  6400m
  C3  07/05  7300m
  C4  19/05  7900m
  Smt 21/05  by Jang, Pasang and Sangbu.

  Jang, Pasang and Sangbu summit push from C4 started at 10:40 pm of 20 May. They arrived summit at 8:30 am of 21 May and stayed on there for one hour. The team returned C4 at 1 pm, then continued to C2 where they arrived at 7 pm. Next day 22 May they went down to BC. Ahead of this team there were 15-20 climbers and behind them probably the same number of climbers.  

  Member Park stuck at about 7700m and had to biv for the night of 19 May. He was rescued by Sherpas to C2 on 20 May and heli-lifted on the morning of 21 May to Kathmandu. 

  High point of other members Choi, Kang and Lim was C3 due to sickness and tiredness.

  Team summited Mera Peak on 12 April.

  Oxygen: Jang and Sherpas used C3-summit-C3.
  		       
  Sherpas:
    Sangbu Lama, Hatiya-2, 12/01/1979
    Pasang Namgel


expid: EVER17154
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Africa
leaders: Ryan Sean Davy
sponsor: Davy Illegal Everest Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-17
smtdate: 2017-05-03
termdate: 2017-05-04
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to being discovered
othersmts: Summited Lobuche on 2 April
campsites: BC(17/04,4700m),C1(03/05,6100m),xxx
agency: None
routememo:
  BC  17/04  4700m (Pumori)
  C1         5700m (Pumori)
  HPt 25/04  6800m (SE Face of Pumori)
  HPt 03/05  6100m C1 on Everest at 10:30 am.

  Davy arrived in Kathmandu on 17 March. Spent two days in Kathmandu to buy some equipment. Bussed to Jiri. Trekked from Jiri to Namche. He carried his own rucksack, which weighed 42kg all the way to Surke. The bag broke and then he realized that he needed a porter. They trekked to Lobuche BC together. On 29 March, they arrived there and he climbed to C1 30 March in the morning. Wanted to do it in the dark not to be seen. He summited Lobuche on 2 Aril.

  After Lobuche, he spent a few weeks walking up and down Kalapattar and Pumori C1 to acclimatize. Every seven days, he would run back to Namche to get some provisions. It took him a day from Pumori BC to Namche, spend a night in Namche and then go back. He did this about 4 times. 

  On 2 May, he left Pumori BC at about 7 pm, to Gorak Shep and Everest BC at about 8:30 pm and returned to Pumori BC. It was a very dark night. The reason he did that was to break trail as it had been snowing. On 3 May, he left his tent at Pumori BC at 3 am and reached EBC at 4:14 am. There were about 3 or 4 flashlights in the Khumbu Icefall. As he was climbing illegally, he waited for the next person to enter the Icefall to follow as he wanted to appear as part of a team. It was about 4:30 am. When he reached C1 at 10:30 am he realized that all the tents had expedition names on them and that his tent would stick out. He decided to descend and come up with a good idea of how to get a name on his tent. He left C1 at 1:30 pm. It took him 3 hours to descend. The weather turned bad and it started graupeling (snowing with soft pellets). 

  As he saw the SPPC tent in the Icefall he stayed in the Icefall a bit to make sure that he was not discovered. At about 5:30 pm he walked through BC and he sensed that there was going to be an issue as he was wearing his 8000m-boots and he knew that it would be obvious if he walked out of base camp wearing these boots. He got out of BC and four men whistled to attract his attention. He waved and as soon as he was around a rock he made for a little cave. He sat in the cave for about 10 minutes and as he peered around the corner to check out where they were, they came around the corner and discovered him. One of them was Phurba Tashi and another Gyanendra Shresthat (from the Ministry of Tourism). 

  They told him to get out of the cave and show them his passport, which he miraculously had with him. They asked him whether he had a permit and he admitted he did not. They went to the Satori Camp and they gave him tea and biscuits and discussed the situation. Davy admitted everything, including Lobuche and Pumori. They told him to leave BC immediately and kept his passport. He went back to his tent and he was very down as he had the feeling that he had failed his mission.
  During the night, he realized that he did not have any details of the people who took his passport so he returned to BC. He met Russell Brice, who told him to look for the liaison officer. Davy found Gyanendra, who had arrested him. There were two Sherpas in the tent and one Sherpa was very aggressive toward him and was physical abusive. He slapped him in the face and took pictures of him. The Sherpa then threw him toward Gyanendra. The Sherpa demanded to have a pic of Davy and him and the passport. Gyanendra told Davy to get out as soon as possible and leave BC. "I felt like a murderer when the Sherpa attacked me. I thought he was going to throw stones at me." He then left very quickly as he was scared to be hurt physically or arrested. 

  He went back to Pumori C1 and BC to pack up his gear and leave. His load was about 32kg. He trekked back to Jiri, which took him 8 days from Pumori BC. He arrived in Kathmandu on 15 May. He went straight to the Department of Tourism on Brikuthi Mandap. He met with the director of the tourism board and he got lectured and they informed him that he was going to be detained. They then called the Chief Police Lady and he was transported to the Nepal Police, where he was held custody for seven days. He went to court for the bail application and was released on bail for 1000 NPR. The decision will be made within two days. The fine is very likely to be around US$24,000U, he can either pay or go to prison. Davy does not have the money so he will go to prison. Maximum sentence 4 years, minimum 2 years.

  Davy says:

  I am accountable for my actions and I don't expect anyone feeling sorry for me. I did not hurt anyone and I am with piece of the idea that I did not do any harm to anyone. I come from a poor family and my dad, who used to be a building contractor, has no money. 

  I trained really hard to be strong. I trained with a hypoxic mask. He was convinced that he would not have needed any help up there. I was going to go to Camp 1, spend 2 days there, then Camp 2, leave my tent there, etc. Ed Viesturs books were great for my preparation. I would like to go back, but I will probably be banned for five years. Next time I come, I will pay for it!

  I pleaded with the authorities to do community service, but they would not let me.

  The reason for me going up there was to help people. I once got very low in my life and I wanted to help people up there. I put all my savings into two feature films and they did not do as well as I thought they would. So I felt like a failure and that is why I wanted to help up there. 

  I used to be a fireman and a rescuer and I thought that if were able to help one single person that would be my summit…much more important than the summit.


  AFP, 26 May 2017

  Kathmandu (AFP) - Nepal said Friday a South African who tried to climb Mount Everest without a permit can go home without paying a $22,000 fine, but banned him from mountaineering there for 10 years.

  Ryan Sean Davy, 43, was found hiding in a cave near Everest base camp nearly two weeks ago after being spotted on the world's highest mountain without a $11,000 climbing permit.

  The South African, who has no prior mountaineering experience, said he could not afford the hefty permit fee but wanted to scale Everest and document his experience in a book and film.

  "The tourism department has excused me and given me permission to go home," Davy told AFP on Friday.

  The head of the tourism department confirmed that Davy had been let off the heavy fine and just given a 10-year ban on climbing mountains in Nepal.

  "We have imposed a 10 year ban on him against mountaineering in Nepal. No fine has been imposed," said Dinesh Bhattarai, head of the tourism department.

  The department had previously said they were looking at converting the fine to a jail sentence of up to four years if the South African could not pay.

  "I've not yet quite processed it but, yeah, I'm ecstatic. I thought they would give me at least two months to a year (in jail). So this is a big surprise. I better leave before they change their mind," Davy said, adding that he was made to hand over the memory cards from his camera.

  When caught two weeks ago, the South African told officials he had climbed as far as Camp One -- at 6000 metres (nearly 20,000 feet) -- crossing the treacherous Khumbu icefall, despite not having all the proper equipment.

  His passport was confiscated by government officials, who ordered he return to Kathmandu to collect it and pay a fine -- a journey he made by foot because he could not afford a plane ticket.

  During questioning in Kathmandu he was arrested under Nepal's strict public order laws for swearing at officials and spent a week in detention.

  He was released on a $10 bail on Monday but had to report to the tourism department every day.

  Johannesburg-born but US-based, Davy moved to Aspen in Colorado six months ago to prepare for his Everest bid, living out of a van as he was short on cash.

  He taught himself to climb by reading mountaineering books and watching YouTube videos.

  Davy told AFP that his Everest mission is not yet over and he intended to try to summit from the Tibet side -- this time with a permit.

  "I'm going to start raising money for a permit on the Tibet side and finish my climb," he said.


expid: EVER17157
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Samuel Sealey
sponsor: Satori Adventures Everest Expedition 2017
countries: China, Greece, India, Italy, Japan, Malaysia
smtdate: 2017-05-20
smttime: 0645
agency: Satori Adventures
routememo:
  Sherpas:
    Phurba Gyalje Sherpa
    Lakpa Tasi Sherpa
    Dawa Temba Sherpa
    Pemba Tashi Sherpa
    Ngima Sherpa
    Nima Sherpa


expid: EVER17158
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Norway
leaders: Guri Anne Hansen
sponsor: Norwegian Everest Expedition 2017
approach: Rolwaling Valley->Khumbu Valley->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-20
smtdate: 2017-05-20
termdate: 2017-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to failing oxygen bottles and high winds
campsites: BC(20/04,5350m),(23/04,6100m),C2(30/04,6400m),C3(16/05,7200m),C4(17/05,8000m),xxx(20/05,8300m)
agency: Tseringma Treks
routememo:
  Guri Anne Hansen stopped at C4 due to 8 of 16 oxygen bottles not available for summit push. Anny Kvithyll turned around at 8300m due to high winds.

    8000m - Hansen with Kilu [Pemba] Sherpa
    8300m - Kvithyll with Dawa Tenzing Sherpa


expid: EVER17159
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Iceland
leaders: Vilborg Gissurardottir
sponsor: Icelandic Everest Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-18
smtdate: 2017-05-21
smttime: 0900
campsites: BC(18/04,5350m),C1(6100m),C2(6400m),C3(7300m),C4(19/05,7950m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  From Icelandic Monitor:

  Vilborg Arna and Tenji Sherpa left Camp Four last night at 21:15 local time. The ascent to the summit took about eleven hours and they reached the summit at 9:00 AM Nepal time/NST.


expid: LHOT17101
peakid: LHOT
year: 2017
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: SummitClimb Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2017
countries: Australia, Belgium, Germany, Poland, Sweden, UK
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-16
smtdate: 2017-05-19
smttime: 0855
termdate: 2017-05-28
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-171-20)
campsites: BC(16/04,5350m),C1(23/04,6100m),C2(26/04,6500m),C3(29/04,7050m),C4(18/05,7800m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Everest Parivar
primid: EVER17120
routememo:
  BC  16/04  5350m
  C1  23/04  6100m	
  C2  26/04  6500m	
  C3  29/04  7050m
  C4  18/05  7800m
  Smt 19/05  by Wolput, Karma Gyalze and Nyberg at 8:55 am; Zajaczkowski, 
             Bojan, Mingmar, Ridar Bhote at noon.

  Summit team left C4 at around midnight. It was very windy, but not cloudy. Straightforward climb. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to C4. Wolput, Karma Gyalze and Nyberg descended to C2; the two Polish with Mingmar and Ridar descended to C4.

  Oxygen:  C3 to summit to C3 by members; C4 to summit to C4 by Sherpas.

  MacPherson reached C2. He left the expedition for personal reasons.

  The remaining members were on the Lhotse permit for alpine-training purposes only:

  Steiner reached C2. He felt sick and ran out of time and left expedition early.
  Sorrell reached BC and suffered from pneumonia. Left early.
  Tomorday reached C3 om 29 April. He never intended to summit.
  Maidment was very sick and did not eat; reached C2 but was too weak to continue.
  Harvell reached C3 on 29 April. He never intended to summit.
  Hepburn reached C3 on 29 April. He never intended to summit


expid: LHOT17102
peakid: LHOT
year: 2017
route1: S Col-W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Ben Jones
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2017
bcdate: 2017-04-09
smtdate: 2017-05-28
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2017-05-29
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-171-11)
campsites: BC(09/04,5400m),C1(24/04,6100m),C2(26/04,6500m),C3(24/05,7400m),C4(25/05,7950m),Smt(28/05)
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
primid: EVER17111
routememo:
  BC  09/04  5400m
  C1  24/04  6100m
  C2  26/04  6500m
  C3  24/05  7400m				
  C4  25/05  7950m
  Smt Everest on 27 May by Perez and Jangbu at 8:15 am.
  Smt Lhotse  on 28 May by Perez, Jangbu and Karma Serki at 8 am.

  Everest summit team left C4 at 11 pm on 26 May. Weather was warm but cloudy. Light snow on the SE Ridge. Straightforward climb. They spent about half an hour on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at about 12:30 am.

  On 27 May they all descended to C2 apart from Perez, who summited Lhotse from C4 on Everest. He [with Jangbu] left C4 Everest at 1 am. He felt exhausted after Everest, but pushed himself and got up Lhotse. Good and clear day. They spent about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to C2 at about 3 pm.

  On 28 May whole team at C2. On 29 May at 3 am everyone descended to BC, packed and took helicopter to Lukla and then Kathmandu.


expid: LHOT17103
peakid: LHOT
year: 2017
route1: S Col-W Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Nirmal Purja
sponsor: Nirma Purja Everest-Lhotse-Makalu Expedition 2017
approach: Ktm->Everest BC by helicopter
bcdate: 2017-05-23
smtdate: 2017-05-27
smttime: 1555
termdate: 2017-05-29
othersmts: Purja summited Everest (EVER-171-03) earlier and Makalu (MAKA-171-12)
campsites: BC(23/05,5350m),C2(25/05,6400m),Everest.C4(26/05,8000m),EVER.Smt(27/05),Lhotse.Smt(27/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
primid: EVER17105
routememo:
  After 15 May first Everest summit with the British Gurka Team led by Dick Gale, Purja descended to South Col and then to C2, where he arrived at 9 pm on 15 May. On 17 May back to BC. Heli to Kathmandu on 18 May and returned to BC on 23 May by heli.

  BC  23/05  5350m
  C2  25/05  6400m (left BC at 1:30 am and arrived at 6 am)
  C4  26/05  8000m (left C2 at 2 am and arrived at C4 on 11:30 am)

  Everest Smt 27/05  by Purja, Lhakpa Sherpa (Makalu) at 5:35 am.

  Purja and Lhakpa left C4 at 9:20 pm. Reached dead body of Roland Yearwood just below the Balcony at 11:45 pm. Reached summit at 5:35 am. They spent about 15 minutes on the summit, then descended to C4, where they arrived at 7:30 am. Lhakpa stayed at Everest C4. Purja rested for about 1 hour and continued to Lhotse C4, where he arrived at 10:30 am. He did not rest there, just grabbed some oxygen and continued towards the Lhotse summit with Jangbu Sherpa.

  Lhotse Summit 27/05 by Purja and Jangbu Sherpa at 3:55 pm.

  They spent about 10 minutes on the summit. The weather was horrendous. Very windy. They descended to C2, where they arrived at 7:20 pm. On 28 May, back to BC. On 29 May he took a helicopter to Lukla. Waited for his Makalu ABC flight, but weather too bad. In the early evening, he took a heli to Namche to celebrate Everest day there. 

  On 30 May in the early morning, he took a heli back to Lukla, picked up four Sherpas and flew to Makalu BC, where they arrived at 7:41 am (see MAKA-171-12 for Makalu summit details).

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to both summits to C3 by Purja and Sherpas.


expid: LHOT17104
peakid: LHOT
year: 2017
route1: W Face
nation: UK
leaders: Tim Mosedale
sponsor: Tim Mosedale's Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2017
countries: Australia, Germany, USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-17
smtdate: 2017-05-16
smttime: 1715
termdate: 2017-05-28
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-171-13)
campsites: BC(17/04,5350m),C1(21/04,6100m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(14/05,7100m),C4(15/05,7800m),Smt(16,21/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
primid: EVER17113
routememo:
  BC  17/04  5350m
  C1  21/04  6100m
  C2  24/04  6400m
  C3  14/05  7100m
  C4  15/05  7800m
  Smt 16/05  by Plain and Pemba (Pangboche) at 5:15 pm.
  Smt 21/05  by Rehn and Pemba (Makalu region) at 7:30 am.

  16 May summit team left C4 at 8 am. The reason they left so late was that they were with the rope-fixing Sherpas. They spent about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at 9 pm. Plain was called "Strong Steve", he was very fast and that's why they were so fast. 

  21 May summit team left C4 at 4 am. Conditions were good. They descended to C2, where they arrived at 8 pm.
  	
  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members for Lhotse and Everest
    Sherpas from C4 to top to C4 on Lhotse and Everest.


expid: LHOT17105
peakid: LHOT
year: 2017
route1: S Col-W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Garrett Madison
sponsor: Madison Mountaineering Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2017
countries: Ireland, Norway
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-13
smtdate: 2017-05-23
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2017-05-26
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVE-171-15)
campsites: BC(13/04,5350m),C1(21/04,6100m),C2(22/04,6550m),C3(19/05,7100m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(23-24/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
primid: EVER17115
routememo:
  BC  13/04  5350m
  C1  21/04  6100m
  C2  22/04  6550m
  C3  19/05  7100m
  C4  20/05  7900m (Everest C4)

  Lhotse Summit:
  On 23 May by Schellens, Stenderup, Siddhi Tamang at 10 am
  On 24 May by Sidney Pattison, Ingvild Settemsdal, Lhakpa Dendi Sherpa at 12 noon.

  23 May Lhotse summit team had come down from Everest on 21 May to C4. They rested the whole of 22 May and on morning of 23 May they left Everest C4 at about 5 am. Straightforward climb, but it was very windy. They spent about 15 minutes on summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at about 4 pm.

  24 May Lhotse summit team: Pattison had spent 3 nights at C4 as he had climbed up with the Everest summit group. After summiting Everest Settemsdal spent a night a C4 on Everest. On 24 May, they left C4 at 7 am. Spent about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at about 5:30 pm.

  Everyone down at BC on 25 May. Left BC 26 May (heli).

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C2 to top or high point to C2 by members and guides, 
    From C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.


  Robert Kelso Smith was an Adventure Consultants client on the Madison permit.


expid: LHOT17106
peakid: LHOT
year: 2017
route1: W Face
nation: UK
leaders: Masha Gordon
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Lhotse Expedition 2017
countries: USA
approach: By helicopter from Makalu
bcdate: 2017-05-16
smtdate: 2017-05-22
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2017-05-23
othersmts: Attempted Makalu (MAKA-171-04)
campsites: BC(16/05,5300m),C2(18/05,6400m),C3(20/05,7100m),C4(21/05,7800m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
primid: MAKA17104
routememo:
  BC  16/05  5300m  by heli (acclimatized from Makalu)
  C1   --     --
  C2  18/05  6400m
  C3  20/05  7100m		
  C4  21/05  7800m
  Smt 22/05  by Gordon, Pemba Ongdi at 7 am, Castillo at 7:30 am.

  Castillo left C4 at 12:30 am, Gordon and Pemba Ongdi left at 2:30 am. It was a clear and windless. Good conditions. Couloir snowy. The spent about 10 minutes on the summit as the winds were picking up. They descended to C4, packed up and continued to C2, where Gordon and Pemba arrived at 1 pm and Castillo about 4 pm.

  On 23 May everyone back to BC and left that day by heli.

  Oxygen:
    Used from below C3 to high point to C2 by Gordon and Pemba Ongdi
    Castillo Lofthouse did not use oxygen.

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Ongdi, Yaphu, Makalu, 29/11/1987


  Charles Mace was an Adventure Consultants client on the Himalayan Guides permit.
  Wendy Gustin was an Adventure Consultants client on the Himalayan Guides permit.


expid: LHOT17107
peakid: LHOT
year: 2017
route1: W Face
nation: UK
leaders: Richard Maybank
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Lhotse Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-15
smtdate: 2017-05-16
smttime: 1700
termdate: 2017-05-29
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(16-17,19-20,26-27/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
countries:
  Argentina, Australia, Belgium, Bulgaria, Canada, China, Germany, India,Iran, Israel, Italy, Kuwait, Norway, Peru, Poland, Portugal,S Korea,Serbia,Spain

routememo:
  The Seven Summit Treks Lhotse Expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-3 climbers each). Seven Summit Treks provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Song Yui-Jiang (China)

  Camps: BC(18/04,5300m),C1(28/04,6100m),C2(16/05,6400m),C3(17/05,7000m),
         C4(18/05,7781m),Smt(19/05)
  Left:  21/05/17
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success at 10:50 am.

  Yujiang Song was the only climber from his group going for Lhotse. The rest of team went for Everest. BC, C1, C2 and C3 were the same for all the climbers. On summit push at 19 May, Song left C4 at 1 am. There was a little bit of wind, but no snow and it was not too cold. Song climbed together with Dawa Sherpa. They reached the summit of Lhotse at 10:50 am and spent 30 minutes on the summit. The weather was clear. They descended to C2, which they reached at 5 pm. The next day (20 May), they went down from C2 to BC, arriving at 2 pm.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from 8200m to top to C4 by Song
    Taken and used from C4 to summit and down to C3 by Dawa.


  Mario Vielmo (Italy)
  Sebastiano Valentini (Italy)
  Nicola Bonaiti (Italy)

  Camps: BC(22/04,5260m),C1(28/04,6050m),C2(29/04,6430m),C3(07/05,7070m),
         C4(25/05,7800m),Smt(26/05)
  Left:  29/05/17 by helicopter (Vielmo, Bonaiti); 28/05 by foot (Valentini)
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success at 5 pm.

  Summit day: started at 2 am from C4, reaching entrance of the couloir at 6 am at 8000m. Summit at 5 pm, after doubting to continue because of bad weather. 30 minutes on top then down. Back to C4 at 10:20 pm (found it thanks to GPS in the dark). On 27th back to C2. On 28th back to BC. 

  Sebastiano stopped at the entrance of the couloir, feeling cold fingers. Had had 9 fingers frostbites on Annapurna I with Mario Vielmo. At 5:30 am decided to return down. Back to BC on same day. 

  Before them, 6 other people with oxygen went to the top (Korean team?), who started from higher C3 (Sebastiano saw their headlamps). Nicola and Mario waited for them to go down at the thinnest part of the couloir, to pay attention to rock/ice falls.

  Gyelu Sherpa up to C3. Italians didn't want him to go farther, but to wait at C3. 

  "Weather forecast always changing, particularly unstable conditions this season."

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

  Agency: Cho Oyu Trekking (on SST permit)


  Atanas Skatov (Bulgaria)

  Camps: BC(15/04,5400m),C1(26/04,6000m),C2(27/04,6500m),C3(14/05,7200m),
         C4(15/05,7800m),Smt(16/05)
  Left:  24/05/17 by helicopter to Ktm
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success at 5:52 pm.

  On summit push Skatov left C4 at 8 am. It was warm, good weather. Skatov's Sherpa Lhakpa Dendi turned around after 50m from C4, Skatov continued alone. At noon he had a problem, his regulator did not work properly and he continued to the summit with a very low oxygen rate. He felt pain in his back, maybe caused by low oxygen. He stayed on the top for 30 minutes, weather and view were perfect.

  He descended to C4 reaching it at 8:15 pm. He reached South Col with Lhakpa Dendi
  Sherpa on the same day at 11:15 pm. But on South Col the wind started to increase and they returned to C4 on Lhotse. At midnight they arrived at the camp. On 18 May they descended to C2, staying there for 3 nights, resting for their Everest attempt.

  Oxygen: Taken and used by Skatov from C3 to Lhotse summit and back to C4.

  Sherpa: 
    Lhakpa Dendi, Gudel-9, Solukhumbu, 22/11/74


  Vibeke Andrea Sefland (Norway)

  Camps: BC(15/04,5350m),C1(26/04,6100m),C2(27/04,6400m),C3(06/05,7100m),
         C4(15/05,7800m),Smt(16/05)
  Left:  25/05/17 by helicopter
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success at 5:52 pm.

  Lhotse summit team left C2 at 8 am as the rope-fixing Sherpas were in front of them. They caught up with the rope-fixing Sherpas at about 8200m. The weather was calm and warm, so waiting for the Sherpas was not too bad. There were 17 people on the route (including rope-fixing Sherpas). They spent about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 8 pm. The following day they went to C2. They spent three nights at C2 before starting their Everest ascent.

  Oxygen: Used from C3 to summit to C4 by Sefland and Temba.

  Sherpa: Temba Bhote, Makalu, 19/03/82


  Alessandra Pepper (Australia)
  Mariano Galvan (Argentina)

  Camps: BC(27/04,5300m),C2(6480m),C3(08/05,7200m),xxx(21/05,8015m)
  Left:  29/05/17
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned at 7200m (Pepper) and 8015m (Galvan)

  Pepper turned back on 26 May due to weakness from gastro-intestinal illness.
  Galvan turned back on 21 May due to exhaustion (had not slept since departing from base camp on his summit push).

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


  Richard Maybank (UK)

  Camps: BC(18/04,5350m),C1(27/04,6100m),C2(28/04,6500m),C3(18/05,7100m),
         C4(19/05,7800m),Smt(22/05)
  Left:  26/05/17 by trekking
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success at 9:30 am.

  Maybank reached C3 on 18 May. He had carried one oxygen bottle up to C3, which he put on once he got there. He slept on the oxygen and went to C4 on 19 May. When he got to C4 he met a Slovakian, who tried to come into his tent. He had come up from C3 and was on his way to Everest, but decided to go to Lhotse C4 for the night. He stayed with Maybank, who had realized that there was no oxygen for him at C4. Next to his tent there was SST Chinese tent and sent a message down to C2 to tell them that there was no O2 for him at C4.

  On 21 May Maybank met Pemba Sherpa, who told him that there was oxygen for him on the crossing between Everest and Lhotse. He went down and brought two bottles up for his summit push. One of them did not work.

  On the summit push Maybank left C4 at 11 pm on 21 May. Straightforward climb even though he was very slow. He only used 1-1/2 litres of oxygen and he had been at C4 for two nights. When he reached the summit there were three people just coming down from the summit. He spent about 10 minutes on the summit (he has no summit photo as he only had his phone and it died of battery). He descended to C4, where he arrived at 3 pm. On 23 May down to C2. On 24 May down to BC.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to summit to C2 by Maybank.


  Sophie Lenaerts (Belgium)
  Steven Maginelle (Belgium)

  Camps: BC(22/04,5350m),C1(25/04,6100m),C2(26/04,6430m),C3(29/04,7250m),
         C4(15/05,7750m),xxx(16/05,8100m)
  Left:  19/05/17
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned at 8100m due to exhaustion.

  On 15 May Lenaerts and Maginelle left C4 at 10 pm. Lenaerts turned back at about 7800m after half an hour. She was too tired to carry on. Maginelle continued to about 8000m and also turned back. He was too tired and too cold and descended to C4. He slept and went out again with the Seven Summit Sherpas and their clients (Atanas, Vibeke) at about 8:30 am. He reached the bottom of the couloir (8100m), but was too tired again and turned back at about 10 am. He went to C4, picked up Lenaerts and they descended to C3, where they spent the night. On 17 May, they descended to C2 and on 18 May to BC.

  The reason they felt so tired was partially that they did not have any Sherpa support and they carried about 20kg each.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


  Frank Irnich (Germany)

  Camps: BC(20/04,5400m),C1(25/04,6100m),C2(26/04,6430m),C3(7340m),
         C4(16/05,7860m),xxx(17/05,8420m)
  Left:  22/05/17
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 8420m due to sickness [pulmonary edema] and frostbite.

  Irnich left C4 at 00:10 to go for the summit. He abandoned his summit attempt at 5:16 am due to frostbite and exhaustion. There were not enough tents at C4 and so he had to share his tent with 4 people. He had been very sick before and had stayed in Dingboche for 10 days.

  Irnich's Sherpa Lakpa Tenji summited on 17 May at 7:30 am.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to summit to C2 by Irnich and Lakpa Tenji (to C3).

  Sherpa: Lakpa Tenji


  Al Hancock (Canada)

  Camps: BC(15/04,5350m),C1(27/04,6100m),C2(28/04,6500m),C3(18/05,7100m),
         C4(19/05,7900m),Smt(20/05)
  Left:  23/05/17
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success at 5:53 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 12:13 am. Straightforward climb. Two dead bodies – one is below the couloirs and the other one in the rock band, just before you get to the summit. About 20 minutes on the summit, then descended to C4, where they drank something and then descended to C2 at about 5 pm. On 21 May to BC.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to summit to C3 by hancock and Pasang.


  Azim Gheichisaz (Iran)
  Saeid Mirzaei (Iran)

  Camps: BC(20/04,5400m),C2(28/04,6500m),C3(10/05,7200m),C4(18/05,7800m),Smt(19/05)
  Left:  23/05/17 by helicopter from Pheriche
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Success at 2 pm.

  On summit push Azim and Saeid started at 5 am from C4. They wanted to start earlier, but going without oxygen, it was too cold before sunrise. They stayed on the summit for 15 minutes. They saw two dead bodies on the way, one 100m below the summit, the other 20m below the summit. Weather was windy, cold, no clouds. They descended back to C4 and got there at 5 pm. Next day they descended to C2. On 21 May they went down to BC.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used by Gheichisaz [or Mirzaei].


  Javier Camacho (Spain)

  Camps: BC(25/04,5300m),C1(27/04,6100m),C2(28/04,6400m),C3(07/05,7100m),
         C4(26/05,7800m),Smt(27/05)
  Left:  30/05/17 by helicopter
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success at 9 am.

  Camacho and Pasang started at C4 at 11 pm. They stayed on the summit only 10 minutes. Very bad weather, windy, a lot of snow, bad views. They got back to C4 at noon. They continued to C2 and reached it at 9 pm. On descent Pasang Sherpa left him alone, Camacho had to descend on his own. 

  Oxygen: 
    Not taken, not used by Camacho
    Taken and used by Pasang Sherpa from C3 to summit and down to C3.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Dawa (Makalu, 21)


  Debasish Biswas (India)

  Camps: BC(26/04,5350m),C1(28/04,6100m),C2(29/04,6400m),C3(14/05,7200m),
         C4(15/05,7750m),Smt(16/05)
  Left:  20/05/17
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success at 5 pm.

  Summit team of Biswas and Phurba left C4 at 7 am. They were moving with the rope fixers, hence the slow pace. They spent about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 8 pm. On 17 May to C2 and 19 May at BC.

  Oxygen: C3 to top to C3 by Biswas; from C4 to top to C4 by Phurba.

  Sherpa:
    Phurba [Ongdi] (Makalu)


  Waldemar Kowalewski (Poland)

  Camps: BC(5300m),C1(6000m),C2(6500m),C3(7100m),C4(19/05,7950m),Smt(20/05)
  Term:  Success at 15:30 pm.

  Kowalewski's summit push began on 17 May from BC directly to C2, then to C3 on 18 May and to C4 on 19 May, struggling to reach C4 at 9 pm. Kowalewski set off for the summit at 7 am on 20 May, summiting at 3:30 pm. Then he descended to C2 arriving at 2 am on 21 May.


  Danny Gordin (Israel)

  Camps: BC(5350m),C1(6100m),C2(6500m),C3(7100m),xxx(19/05,8000m)
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned at 8000m due to exhaustion.

  On his summit push, Gordin could not find a suitable site for his C4, so elected to continue towards the summit, but turned back at 8000m due to exhaustion.

  Oxygen: Not used


  Marina Cortes (Portugal)

  Cortes only reached BC. She injured her knee and was heli-vaced back to Kathmandu.

  Agency: Dreamers Destination on Seven Summit Treks permit.


expid: LHOT17108
peakid: LHOT
year: 2017
route1: W Face
nation: China
leaders: Zhang Wei
sponsor: Chinese 14 Peaks Lhotse Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-19
smtdate: 2017-05-21
termdate: 2017-05-23
campsites: BC(19/04,5400m),C1(30/04,6100m),C2(01/05,6500m),C3(19/05,7200m),C4(20/05,7800m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  19/04  5400m
  C1  30/04  6100m
  C2  01/05  6500m
  C3  19/05  7200m	
  C4  20/05  7800m
  Smt 21/05  by Zhang and one Sherpa at 9 am, Li and Mingma Sherpa at 10 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 1 am. Straightforward climb. Spent about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at around midnight. Everyone down at BC on 22 May. Team left BC on 23 May by helicopter.

  Fei reached C2 on 1 May and spent three nights there. He suffered from pulmonary edema and was rescued by helicopter on 4 May. He stayed in hospital for five days and returned to China. 

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C2 by members and Sherpas.


expid: LHOT17109
peakid: LHOT
year: 2017
route1: W Face
nation: Poland
leaders: Rafal Fronia
sponsor: Polish Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche Peak->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-08
smtdate: 2017-05-20
smttime: 0747
termdate: 2017-05-22
campsites: BC(08/04,5400m),C2(15/04,6400m),C3(18/05,7350m),C4(19/05,7850m),Smt(20/05)
accidents: Tomala got frostbitten nose and fingers.
agency: Prestige Adventure
primid: EVER17130
routememo:
  BC  08/04  5400m	
  C1  ----   ---- 
  C2  15/04  6,400m
  C3  18/05  7,350m
  C4  19/05  7,850m	
  Smt 20/05  by Fronia at 7:47 am.

  On summit push Fronia and Tomala left C4 at 1 am. Conditions were very good, the snow was hard, perfect for climbing. At 8450m Tomala turned around because he was feeling very cold. Fronia continued and reached the summit. It was very windy and he only spent a few seconds at the summit. He saw a dead body just beneath the summit in a red Mountain Hardwear downsuit. 

  On the descent, he found Tomala, who was frostbitten at nose and fingers and in very bad condition. They descended to C2 which they reached at 7 pm. Next day, they went down to BC. Left BC on 22 May by helicopter.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used. 


expid: LHOT17110
peakid: LHOT
year: 2017
route1: W Face
nation: Iran
leaders: Mahmoud Hashemi
sponsor: Iranian Lhotse Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-20
smtdate: 2017-05-19
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2017-05-23
campsites: BC(20/04,5400m),C2(28/04,6500m),C3(10/05,7200m),C4(18/05,7800m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  BC  20/04  5400m
  C1  ----   ----
  C2  28/04  6500m
  C3  10/05  7200m
  C4  18/05  7800m
  Smt 19/05  by Hashemi and Maani (with O2) at 9 am; Moghaddam at 3:30 pm (no O2).

  On summit push team started at 5 am from C4. They wanted to start earlier, but going without oxygen, it was too cold before sunrise. They stayed on the summit for 15 minutes. They descended back to C4 and got there at 5 pm. Next day they descended to C2. On 21 May they went down to BC. 

  Left BC on 23 May they went from BC to Pheriche and took a helicopter to Lukla.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used by Maani and Hashemi from Yellow Band to top to C4
    Moghaddam did not use O2.


expid: LHOT17111
peakid: LHOT
year: 2017
route1: S Col-W Face
nation: China
leaders: Han Zi-Jun
sponsor: Sherpa Kangri Lhotse Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-18
smtdate: 2017-05-25
smttime: 0651
termdate: 2017-05-28
agency: Sherpa Khangri Outdoor
campsites:
  BC(18/04,5400m),C1(25/04,6100m),C2(26/04,6300m),C3(29/04,7300m),Ever.C4(20/05,7950m),Ever.Smt(22/05),Lhot.C4(24/05,7800m),Smt(25/05)

routememo:
  BC  18/04  5400m
  C1  25/04  6100m
  C2  26/04  6300m
  C3  29/04  7300m	
  C4  20/05  7950m
  Smt 22/05  (Everest) by Han, Mingma Chhiri Sherpa (Rolwaling) at 4:12 am.

  Everest Summit team left C4 at 7:30 pm on 21 May. Weather was calm, not cold. Straightforward climb. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit, and descended to C4, where they arrived at 10 am. They stayed there for two nights and moved to Lhotse C4 on 24 May.

  C4  24/05  7800m
  Smt 25/05  (Lhotse) by Han, Jit Bahadur at 6:51 am.

  Lhotse Summit team left C4 Lhotse at 2 am. Weather was calm and clear. Han had to negotiate her way around two dead bodies near the summit. They spent about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at 5 pm. It was very hot to get down. On 26 May back to BC. Left BC 28 May by helicopter.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C3 to Everst summit and down to C4, then to Lhotse C4 to 
      Lhotse summit and to C2 by Han
    From C3 to Everest summit to C4 by Mingma Chhiri
    From C4 to top to C4 by Jit Bahadur.

  Sherpas:
    Jit Bahadur (Thile), Khare-5, Dolakha, 30/07/1978
    Mingma Chhiri, Beding, 19/01/1992


expid: LHOT17112
peakid: LHOT
year: 2017
route1: S Col-W Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Takanobu Kajiyama
sponsor: ISG Ishii Sports Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla-Namche->Lobuche East Pk->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-24
smtdate: 2017-05-26
termdate: 2017-05-28
agency: Cosmo Treks
primid: EVER17137
campsites:
  BC(24/04,5400m),C1(01/05,6100m),C2(03/05,6400m),C3(22/05,7000m),C4(23/05,7950m),Ever.Smt(25/05),Smt(26/05)

routememo:
  BC  24/04  5400m
  C1  01/05  6100m (4 pax)
  C2  03/05  6400m
  C3  22/05  7000m
  C4  23/05  7950m (Everest)

  Summit Everest on 25 May by Inaoka, Sasaki, Harayama, Kajiyama, Arakawa, Okuda, 6 Sherpas at 7 am.

  Summit Lhotse on 26 May by Arakawa, Okuda, Harayama, Kajiyama, Phura Chhiri, Chhepa Sherpa.

  On summit push the Everest team started from C4 at 10 pm. The weather was fine. They got to the top at different times in the morning. Inaoka reached the summit at 7 am and stayed for 30 minutes.

  The team got back to C4 around noon. On 26 May Inaoka and Sasaki went down to C2. In C2 the Everest and Lhotse teams met again. Everyone was back at BC on 27 May.

  Left BC on 28 May by helicopter.

  Oxygen: taken and used from C3 to summit and down to C3 by clients and Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Phura Chhiri Sherpa, 05/10/1969, Lokhim-9, Solukhumbu
    Chhepa Sherpa, 29/10/1983, Sotang-6, Solukhumbu


expid: LHOT17113
peakid: LHOT
year: 2017
route1: W Face
nation: Ireland
leaders: Cian O'Brolchain
sponsor: Ascent Himalayas Lhotse Expedition 2017
countries: Iceland
approach: Lukla->Island Peak-> Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-20
smtdate: 2017-05-16
smttime: 1630
termdate: 2017-05-20
campsites: BC(20/04,5400m),C1(27/04,6100m),C2(28/04,6400m),C3(15/05,7000m),C4(16/05,7800m),Smt(16/05)
achievment: Sigurjonsson is the 1st person from Iceland to summit Lhotse
agency: Ascent Himalayas (Himalayan Ascent pmt)
routememo:
  BC  20/04  5400m
  C1  27/04  6100m
  C2  28/04  6400m
  C3  15/05  7000m
  C4  16/05  7800m (O'Brolchain slept at C4 on the way down)
  Smt 16/05  by Tshering Pemba Sherpa, John Snorri Sigurjonsson at 4:30 pm, 
             Cian O'Brolchain at 6 pm.

  The team left C3 on 16 May on their summit push at 12:30 am. From C3 they went straight for the summit. They fixed ropes from 8100m to the summit. There was knee-deep snow on summit day, but apart from that, conditions and weather were good, relatively warm, not too windy. They were protected by the couloirs from the wind. 

  The climbing was hard because of the snow and because they had to fix the ropes. O'Brolchain ran out of oxygen early on the way up, but Tshering gave him more. Tshering and Sigurjonsson reached the summit at 4:30 pm, they stayed on the summit for 30 minutes. O'Brolchain reached the summit at 6 pm, spending 10 minutes on the top. 

  Sigurjonsson and Tshering descended to C3 where they spent the night. They reached C3 around 9 pm. O'Brolchain spent the night alone in C4, he got there at 11 pm. It was a cold night as he didn't have a sleeping bag and was out of oxygen. On 17 May, Sigurjonsson and Tshering Sherpa went down to BC, O'Brolchain and Mingma (who turned around on summit push at 8300m) went to C2. On 18 May, everyone was back at BC. 	

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used by Tshering and Sigurjonsson from C3 to summit and back to C3
    By O'Brolchain from C3 to summit and back to C4.

  Sherpa:
    Tshering Pemba, Beding, 12/12/1985
    Mingma [Tshering?] Sherpa, [Beding, 01/08/70?]


expid: LHOT17115
peakid: LHOT
year: 2017
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Ryan Waters
sponsor: Mountain Professionals Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2017
countries: UK
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-10
smtdate: 2017-05-22
termdate: 2017-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 8200m due to Follows not feeling well
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-171-23)
campsites: BC(10/04,5350m),C1(15/04,6100m),C2(18/04,6500m),C3(20/05,7300m),C4(21/05,7800m),xxx(22/05,8200m)
agency: Himalayan Trailblazer
primid: EVER17123
routememo:
  BC  10/04  5350m
  C1  15/04  6100m
  C2  18/04  6500m
  C3  20/05  7300m
  C4  21/05  7800m
  HPt 22/05  8200m by Follows and Pasang Dawa.

  Follows and Pasang Dawa reached about 8200m on Lhotse (just below the couloir) on 22 May. She turned back as she was not feeling well. They descended to C2, where they arrived at about 5 pm.

  Left BC 25 May by helicopter.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to high point to C3 by Follows
    Sherpa from C4 to high point to C4.


expid: LHOT17117
peakid: LHOT
year: 2017
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Christopher Pollak
sponsor: Myrmidon Lhotse Expedition 2017
bcdate: 2017-04-23
smtdate: 2017-05-18
termdate: 2017-05-21
campsites: BC(23/04,5400m),C1(24/04),C2(25/04),C3(03/05),xxx(18/05,7800m)
agency: Himalayan Ski Trek
routememo:
  BC  23/04  5400m
  C1  24/04
  C2  25/04
  C3  03/05
  C4  18/05  No sleep – touch and go down.
  Smt  No summit.

  Oxygen: Used from C3 to C4.


expid: CHOY14331
peakid: CHOY
year: 2014
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Manuel Sanchez Galindo
sponsor: Spanish Cho Oyu Expedition 2014
approach: Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2014-09-06
smtdate: 2014-10-02
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2014-10-04
campsites: BC(06/09,4900m),ABC(09/09,5700m),C1(15/09,6400m),C2(17/09,7100m),C3(01/10,7400m),Smt(02/10)
agency: Bochi Bochi Treks
routememo:
  BC  06/09  4900m
  ABC 09/09  5700m
  C1  15/09  6400m
  C2  17/09  7100m
  C3  01/10  7400m
  Smt 02/10  by Sanchez Galindo, Garcia Gomez and Lhakpa Sherpa at 10 am .

  Summit team left C3 at 2 am. Conditions and weather were good, but it was cold. They summited at 10 am and spent about 30 minutes on the summit. They descended to C3, where they arrived at 5 pm.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


expid: EVER17161
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Kosovo
leaders: Nazmi Hasanramaj
sponsor: Kosovo Everest Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-10
smtdate: 2017-05-22
smttime: 0615
termdate: 2017-05-25
campsites: BC(10/04,5350m),C1(16/04,6100m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(07/05,7350m),C4(21/05,8000m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Himalayan Traverse
routememo:
  Summit team set out from C4 at 8 pm on 21 May. It was quite warm, not windy; generally the weather conditions were good. A lot of climbers found it hard to manage the climbing as it was only on rope to climb and descend which caused a lot of traffic.

  Team summited at 6:15 am, stayed 30 minutes, then descended to C4 arriving at 11 am and spent their first night at C4. They descended to base camp arriving on 24 May. On 25 May they trekked from base camp to Lukla for another 3 days.

  Oxygen:
    Both members used from C3 to summit to C4; Sherpas from C4 to summit to C4.


expid: EVER17166
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: N Face (Great Couloir)
route2: N Col-NE Ridge (to 7350m)
nation: Japan
leaders: Nobukazu Kuriki
sponsor: Kuriki Everest North Expedition 2017
bcdate: 2017-04-19
smtdate: 2017-05-03
termnote: Abandoned at 7350m due to dangerous ice conditions on N Face
campsites: BC(19/04),ABC(6400m),xxx(03/05,7350m)
agency: Bochi Bochi Treks
routememo:
  Kuriki's Plan:

  “Hello, Tibetan Base Camp”
  Yesterday we got to the Tibetan Base Camp. From here, we head to the Base Camp of The North Wall. Yak carry the luggage.

  Now, clouds started to hang over Everest. I hope to get to the base camp of the North Wall without problem.

  After arriving at the base camp, we are going to do a ceremony called "Puja" to pray for the safety of this attempt, then I will move to ABC (Advanced Base Camp) of the Normal Route to leave for 7500m to acclimatize to the altitude.

  Afterwords, I will go back to the Base Camp of the North Wall to take a rest, then I will move to the Advanced Base Camp of the North Wall, where I start climbing all by myself.

  I'm going to share my adventure in full-scale.

  This year, my team has small number of people but they are all accustomed to the severe conditions; Two Japanese staff, three Nepalese staff who carry tripods and telephoto lenses, a cook and his assistant.

  Before, when I made an attempt from the Nepalese side, I had to bring three groups of teams to share my adventure, because from the Base Camp, they couldn´t see me climbing. I put 2 more teams at Camp 1 and the Base Camp of another mountain called Pu Mori, so we had to be a big group. However last year, I found out that whole the North Wall can be seen from the bottom. This year, I brought only two Japanese staff. They will share my attempt from the Advanced Base Camp, using the telephoto scope.


  "Welcome to Everest"

  Finally I could have uploaded the movie of the acclimating.

  I moved from the base camp of the North Wall to the base camp of the Normal Route, making a half way round Everest. 

  Then I planned to climb North Col to acclimating. All the team member couldn't come with me, so now I'm came back and finally could have uploaded this video.

  That was a really long way…

  I headed the altitude of 7500m, but it was too windy so I turned back at the altitude of 7350m.


expid: EVER17164
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Mexico
leaders: David Pastor
sponsor: Everest One Push 2017
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2017-04-24
smtdate: 2017-04-28
termdate: 2017-05-02
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to pulmonary edema and pneumonia
campsites: BC(24/04,5200m),C2(28/04,6400m),xxx
agency: Beyul Adventure
routememo:
  Pastor abandoned the climb at C2 due to pulmonary edema and pheumonia. He used oxygen medically in descent to base camp. Returned to Kathmandu on 2 May by helicopter.

  Pastor used the base camp services of IMG, but climbed independently. He was attempting to climb Everest in one push.


expid: EVER17169
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Alex Abramov
sponsor: Seven Summits Club Everest Expedition 2017
countries: Nepal, Poland
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2017-04-27
smtdate: 2017-05-13
smttime: 0715
termdate: 2017-05-24
agency: 7 Summits Adventure
campsites:
  BC(27/04,5100m),IC(30/04,5800m),ABC(01/05,6400m),C1(05/05,7000m),C2(20/05,7800m),C3(21/05,8300m),Smt(13,19,20,22/05)

routememo:
  BC  27/04  5100m
  IC  30/04  5800m
  ABC 01/05  6400m
  C1  05/05  7000m		
  C2  20/05  7800m
  C3  21/05  8300m
  Smt 13/05  by Lakpa Sherpa and Nima Dorje Sherpa at 6 am (NST)
             (with Arun Treks rope-fixers)
  Smt 19/05  by Sergei Larin (guide), Oleg Savchenko, Alexander Sidyakin, 
             Andrey Starikovskiy at 9:30 am (CST), 6 Sherpas (Dorchi,
             Mingma Dorchi, Mingma Tenje, Muktu Lakpa, Ngima Ongdi, Rinjen)
  Smt 20/05  by Janusz Kochanski at 7:30 am (CST), 1 Sherpa (Pasang)
  Smt 22/05  by Alex Abramov (guide), Daniil Briman, Valery Tebiev, Evgeni Kravt,
             Aznaur Akkaev at 4:30 am (NST), 3 Sherpas (Nima Dorje, Nurbu,
             Pemba Nurbu).

  Perfect condition for the whole expedition. On 23 May wind increased to a storm, but climbers had already summited by then. All Sherpas except one (Nurbu) summited. 
  Janusz Kochanski from Poland completed 7 summits in 126 days, according to Abramov  (a world record).

  Grebnever could not go to summit. 

  Nurbu (21/01/80) could not go to summit due to oxygen regulator problem. 

  Left BC 24 May by Jeep. Lhakpa left for KTM earlier.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used by clients from 6400m to summit and down to 6400m
    By Sherpas from 7000m to summit and down to 7000m.


expid: EVER17168
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Shekhar Bachinepally
sponsor: Transcend Adventures Everest North Expedition 2017
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2017-04-18
smtdate: 2017-05-13
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2017-05-26
agency: Arun Treks
campsites:
  BC(18/04,5200m),IC(27/04,5700m),ABC(26/04,6400m),C1(30/04,7100m),C2(11/05,7900m),C3(12/05,8300m),Smt(13,16,22/05)

routememo:
  BC  18/04  5200m
  IC  27/04  5700m
  ABC 26/04  6500m
  C1  30/04  7100m 
  C2  11/05  7900m 
  C3  12/05  8300m 
  Smt 13/05  by Thammineni, Sandrana, Kare, Kunja, Vooyaka, Gullamarusu, Pemba 
             Chhepal, Phurba, Tashi Chhumbel, Nurbu, Pasang Dorje, Phura Tenzing, 
             Kami Temba, Sonam Tashi, Karma Dorje and Lhakpa Tshering Sherpa
  Smt 16/05  by Gajavelli, Mothukuri, Bodla, Seelam, Phurita, Ngima Tashi, 
             Lhakpa Tenzing, Ngima Tenji, Kami Chhiri and Ang Tendi
  Smt 22/05  by Asha Singh, Prabhudesai, Boddu, Vadithe, Ganugapenta, Mingma Nuru,
             Karma Gyaljen, Lhakpa Gyaljen, Tenzing Chhotar, Sanduk Dorje Tamang
             and Pasang Dorje.

  Record: First ascent of the season and first female from Rajasthan. First biggest Indian expedition of civilians. First time 13 climbers from Andhra Pradesh summited.

  The rope-fixing team consisting of nine Sherpas: Lhakpa Nuru, Pasang Chhiri, Fura Tshering, Mingma Nuru, Karma Gyaljen, Lhakpa Gyaljen, Tenzing Chhotar, Sanduk Dorje Tamang and Lakpa Nuru of Transcend Adventures Expedition reached the summit between 2 to 3 pm on 11 May which was the first ascent of Spring 2017. The rope-fixing team returned ABC same day. This season Chinese rope-fixing team put up ropes to 8300m and asked expeditions to carry on further rope fixing. The other expedition leaders proposed Transcend Adventures to do the job.

  The expedition divided its climbers into three teams. The first team consisting of Thammineni, Sandrana, Kare, Kunja, Vooyaka, Gullamarusu, Pemba Chhepal, Phurba, Tashi Chhumbel, Nurbu, Pasang Dorjee, Phura Tenzing, Kami Temba, Sonam Tashi, Karma Dorje and Lhakpa Tshering Sherpa left C3 at 9 pm (NST) on 12 May for summit. First member arrived to the top at 6:20 am and last one at 7:30 am on 13 May. All members and Sherpas returned C3 before 10 am then continued to descend to ABC last one to arrived ABC at 8 pm. The weather at the beginning 3 to 5 am was windy.

  The second team consisting of Gajavelli, Mothukuri, Bodla, Seelam, Phurita, Ngima Tashi, Lhakpa Tenzing, Ngima Tenji, Kami Chhiri and Ang Tendi started their summit push from C3 at 9 pm on 15 May. All got to the top between 4:50 am and 5 am on 16 May. They returned C3 at 10 am and continued to ABC where all arrived between 2 pm and 6 pm.

  The third team consisting of Asha Singh, Prabhudesai, Boddu, Vadithe, Ganugapenta, Mingma Nuru, Karma Gyaljen, Lhakpa Gyaljen, Tenzing Chhotar, Sanduk Dorjee Tamang and Pasang Dorjee left C3 between 7:30 to 9 pm on 21 May. First one arrived summit at 3:20 am on 22 May and last one arrived at 4:45 am. They stayed on summit between 10 to 15 minutes. By 11 am all climbers returned C3 and ABC by 8 pm except Ms. Thammineni who spent night at C1 and on 23 May reached ABC. Thammineni went up to 8530m with third team on 22 May and had to turn around due to slowness. 

  Leader Bachinepally stayed at BC throughout the expedition. Dr. Patel stayed at ABC.

  Ms. Kantepalli climbed up to 7900m. High point for Chinni and Sudipaka was 5700m.

  Similarly, high point for Kokkigadda and Madangi was 7100m, and Bagwan was 8000m.

  Two members left the expedition earlier who reached mid-camp.

  Team left BC on 26 May.

  Fixed rope: 4000m of rope above 8300m.

  Oxygen:
    Members 7100m-summit-7100m; Sherpas from 7900m-summit-7900m.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Nuru from Thami - 22 Nov 1980
    Pasang Chhiri from Thami - 30 Jan 1975
    Fura Tshering from Thami – 24 Jun 1994
    Mingma Nuru from Thami – 30 Dec 1975
    Karma Gyaljen from Phortse – 23 Apr 1987
    Lhakpa Gyaljen from Thami – 31 Aug 1982
    Tenzing Chhotar from Thami – 24 Nov 1989
    Sanduk Dorjee Tamang from Pangboche - 31 May 1983
    Lakpa Nuru from Phortse -17 Dec 1962
    Pemba Chhepal from Thami – 06 Apr 1989
    Phurba from Sotang – 17 Jul 1982
    Tashi Chhumbel from Ghunsa – 15 May 1991
    Nurbu from Makalu – 17 Jun 1979
    Pasang Dorjee from Thami – 27 Apr 1993
    Phura Tenzing from Thami – 31 Jan 1993
    Kami Temba from Thami – 07 July 1994
    Sonam Tashi from Thami -26 Mar 1989
    Karma Dorje from Phortse – 25 Nov 1985
    Lhakpa Tshering from Thami – 16 Feb 1991
    Phurita from Thami – 15 Apr 1982
    Ngima Tashi from Thami – 03 Nov 1992
    Lhakpa Tenzing from Thami – 04 Feb 1983
    Ngima Tenji from Jubing – 07 Mar 1981
    Kami Chhiri from Jubing - 29 Aug 1982
    Ang Tendi from Jubing – 18 May 1985
   
  Following Sherpas had double summit on 11 and 22 May.
    Tenzing Chhotar from Thami – 24 Nov 1989
    Pasang Dorjee from Thami – 27 Apr 1993
    Mingma Nuru from Thami – 30 Dec 1975
    Karma Gyaljen from Phortse – 23 Apr 1987
    Lhakpa Gyaljen from Thami – 31 Aug 1982
    Sanduk Dorjee Tamang from Pangboche - 31 May 1983


expid: EVER17167
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Sherpa Rope-Fixing
sponsor: Sherpa Rope-Fixing Everest North 2017
smtdate: 2017-05-11
smttime: 1400
campsites: BC,ABC,C1,C2,C3,Smt(11/05)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  The rope-fixing team consisting of nine Sherpas from Transcend Adventures/Arun Treks:

    Lhakpa Nuru
    Pasang Chhiri
    Fura Tshering
    Mingma Nuru
    Karma Gyaljen
    Lhakpa Gyaljen
    Tenzing Chhotar
    Sanduk Dorje Tamang
    Lakpa Nuru

  They reached the summit between 2 to 3 pm on 11 May which was the first ascent of Spring 2017. The rope-fixing team returned ABC same day. This season Chinese rope-fixing team put up ropes to 8300m and asked expeditions to carry on further rope fixing. The other expedition leaders proposed Transcend Adventures to do the job.


expid: EVER17162
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Gilian Kit Wai Lee
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
smtdate: 2017-05-16
termdate: 2017-05-22
campsites: BC(5350m),C1,C2(6500m),C3,Lhot.C4(16/05,7800m),xxx
agency: Himalayan Guides?
routememo:
  Gilian Lee - 26 Sept 2017

  Maximum altitude was Lhotse Camp 4, 7800m on morning of 16 May 2017.  Felt great that morning, but didn't sleep well (I don't use O2).

  With me was Ang Dawa Sherpa and Kipa Sherpa. We all turned back to Camp 2 because of massive winds at the summit on the morning of 16 May 2017. We heard from US team that the winds were bad and they were turning around. Dawa recommended that we go down.

  We turned back to Camp 2 and rested for a second attempt. Back I could not do a second attempt. Altitude sickness (headache, heavy lungs and fast heart rate) meant that I was not able to get up to Camp 3. Went back to BC on 20 May 2017.

  Left BC on 22 May 2017.


expid: EVER17170
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Arnold Coster
sponsor: Arnold Coster Expeditions Everest 2017
countries: Australia, Brazil, Denmark
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2017-04-18
smtdate: 2017-05-21
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2017-05-27
campsites: BC(18/04,4900m),ABC(25/04,6400m),C1()02/05,7000m,C2(19/05,7650m),C3(20/05,8200m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  18/04  4900m
  ABC 25/04  6400m
  C1  02/05  7000m
  C2  19/05  7650m	
  C3  20/05  8200m
  Smt 21/05  by Oliani, Phurba Kusang, Pemba at 7 am; Rigotti, Mingma Nurbu at 8 am.

  Summit team and van 't Hof left C3 on 20 May at about 9.30 pm. van 't Hof turned back at the mushroom rock at about 8600m at 3 am. He was too slow and turned back after the Sherpas told him to. He descended C3, where he arrived at 7:30 am.

  Rest of the team continued. Straightforward climb. They spent about half an hour on the summit and descended to C3, where they arrived at 11 am. Oliani descended to ABC, where she arrived at 6 pm. Rigotti to C1 at about 6 pm.

  Reijerse and Coster reached 7300m on 19 May. Reijerse had HACE and Coster turned him around. They reached ABC, and Reijerse felt better, but abandoned the expedition.

  Van Bilderbeek reached 7200m on 19 May. He was too slow and gave up.

  Rabelo reached 7000m on the acclimatization. He never started the summit push as he had been having an upset stomach all the way through the expedition.

  Kragh was attempting without oxygen. He aimed to summit on 22 May. He left C3 at 6 am on 22 May. He had already suffered from cold hand and feet the previous day and that's why he left it so late. He was on his own. He reached mushroom rock (8600m) at about 1 pm, but the weather was deteriorating and his extremities were too cold. He descended to C2 (7700m), where he arrived at 6 pm. It was very windy that night. When he woke up the next morning and was putting on his boots at about 5 am, the wind took his tent and he was lifted inside the tent and moved for about 20 meters. It got caught at a rock and stopped. Kragh grabbed the most important belongings and then the tent flew away. He then started his descent to ABC. The first part was still very windy, but then it got better. He reached ABC at about midday.

  Pasang Nurbu suffered from a chest infection. He was with van 't Hof, but decided to stay at C3 and not go for the summit. He and van 't Hof descended together after van 't Hof's summit attempt.

  Team left ABC on 27 May.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C1 to top or high point to C1 by members and Sherpas
    Kragh did NOT use any oxygen or Sherpa support.


  Report from Karina Oliani:

  BC  02/05  5200m
  IC  03/05  5800m
  ABC 04/05  6400m
  C1  08/05  7100m
  C2  19/05  7800m		
  C3  20/05  8300m
  Smt 21/05  Oliani, Pemba Sherpa at 6:45 am.

  Oliani and Pemba started at C3 at 10:45 pm on 20 May. They stayed on the summit for 15 minutes. Weather was good, sunny, blue skies, -35°C. They descended all the way to ABC on summit day, reaching it at 4:30 pm. Next day they went down to BC. 

  Rabelo got sick at the start of the expedition and only reached C1 before abandoning the climb.


  Email from Mark van t' Hof - 30 May 2017

  My attempt for Everest North was blocked by a sick Sherpa who didn't want to be replaced, although already several weeks a cold and no voice. The sirdar insisted [him] on staying with me.

  But in C3 at 8200m, after already days of vomiting and solid coughing, he had to give up. Fell asleep and I had to care for him. And his radio didn't work. So no communication possible between me and Arnold in ABC.

  At night, I went to summit without him, together with two pair of members and their Sherpa's.

  At nearby Second Step the speed differs between us, I had to go further alone.

  According to my GPS I came to 8567m.

    https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/1759820652?share_unique_id=57

  After thorough competition inside me between ambition and wanted joy of climbing, versus ratio about safety alone in a risky area I decided, with pain in my heart, to return before the Second Step.

  No second try was possible in the next days, for several reasons.

  I am very disappointed that my try to get to the summit was blocked now for twice, earthquake 2015 and sick, unwilling Sherpa in 2017. No database Everest for me this year.


expid: EVER17171
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Peru
leaders: Richard Hidalgo
sponsor: Peruvian on Everest 2017
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2017-04-18
smtdate: 2017-05-27
termdate: 2017-05-30
termnote: Abandoned at 8350m due to coldness
campsites: BC(18/04,4900m),ABC(22/04,6400m),C1(30/04,7000m),C2A(08/05,7500m),C2B(26/05,7700m),xxx(27/05,8350m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  18/04  4900m
  ABC 22/04  6400m
  C1A 30/04  7000m
  C2B 08/05  7500m
  C2  26/05  7700m
  HPt 27/05  8350m by Hidalgo at 5:30 am.

  Hidalgo left C2 at 8 pm on 26 May. He reached C3 site at 2:30 am. He rested in a tent for 2-1/2 hours and continued at 5 am, but after about half an hour he got too cold and decided to turn back. He was not using oxygen. He descended to C2, where he rested for a while and then continued to C1, where he arrived at 3 pm.

  28 May he dismantled his tent and descended to ABC; left ABC 29 May and left BC the next day.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


expid: EVER17172
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: David O'Brien
sponsor: SummitClimb Everest North Expedition 2017
countries: Australia, Austria, UK
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2017-04-15
smtdate: 2017-05-22
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2017-05-31
campsites: BC(15/04,4900m),ABC(20/04,6400m),C1(03/05,7000m),C2(20/05,7850m),C3(21/05,8200m),Smt(22,27/05)
accidents: Snowblindness and frostbite for Mike Hopkins
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  BC  15/04  4900m
  ABC 20/04  6400m
  C1  03/05  7000m
  C2  20/05  7850m		
  C3  21/05  8200m
  Smt 22/05  by Budge and Dawa Jangbu at 2 pm
  Smt 27/05  by Klaus and Ang Dorje at 6:30 am, Kashouh, O'Brien and Tenji at 
             8:30 am, Toothill, Ang Dawa, Whitefield and Tendu at 9.30 am, 
             Toorens and Gelze at 10 am.

  22 May summit team summited so late as there were a lot of people on the route and they were held up on the way. Straightforward climb. Stayed about 20 minutes on summit and descended to C3, where they arrived at 7 pm.

  27 May summit team left C3 at 12:30 am. Weather was clear and calm. However, it was windy on the summit and they only stayed for about 10 minutes. During the descent, it started to snow at about 4 pm, which made the descent tricky for some of the members. Apart from Klaus and Kashouh everyone stayed at C3, where they arrived at between 2 pm and 7:30 pm. Klaus and Kashouh descended to C1, arrived at 6 pm.

  On 28 May, Toothill woke up snowblind at C3. O'Brien short-roped him to ABC. They left C3 at about 11 am and reached ABC at 1 am. Toothill's vision got better after about four hours. 

  Everyone else was also down at ABC on 28 May. Team left BC 31 May,

  Toothill has active bowel cancer.

  Barclay reached C1 on 19 May and decided not to continue.

  Creeden reached C1 on 26 April. He had a very bad cough, which was diagnosed as pneumonia. He left expedition on 30 April.

  Hopkins reached C2 on 23 May. It was during an initial summit push, however, the weather deteriorated and the team went down again. Hopkins got frostbite coming down from C2 to C1. He has mild frostbite on two fingers.

  Munday reached C1 on 3 May and stayed the night there. When the team headed up for the first summit push, he decided not to join them. He then left expedition.

  Accidents: Snowblindness and frostbite.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C1 to summit to C1 by members and Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Jangbu (Da Jangbu), Patle-4, Okhaldhunga, 04/06/1979
    Dorje (Ang Dorje), Patle-5, 08/09/1985
    Tenji/Tenzing, Patle-6, 01/06/1982
    Tendi, Patle-4, 15/12/1985
    Gelze, Patle-4, 13/09/1990
    Ang Dawa, Patle-3, (2036-02-12)


  Ricky Munday - 14 Dec 2017

  Mike Hopkins suffered severe frostbite, temporary wind-blindness and multiple pulmonary edemas. He was rescued from above 7000m and required three months off work to rest completely as his lungs recovered. 13 Dec 2017 he had 50% of his most badly frostbitten finger amputated.

  Ricky Munday joined the initial summit push and climbed up to C2 (7900m) and spent the night there. The following morning he chose to descend to ABCl then moved to BC and organised Mike Hopkins's treatment and evacuation from base camp to Kathmandu (and travelled with him and two other climbers).

  Binns climbed up to C2 and spent 2 nights there with the team before descending after a storm. His high point was C2. He supported Hopkins's treatment and evacuation from BC.


expid: EVER17173
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Kari Kobler
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Everest Expedition 2017
countries: Australia, Germany, UK
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2017-04-16
smtdate: 2017-05-27
smttime: 0430
termdate: 2017-05-28
campsites: BC(16/04,4900m),ABC(25/04,6400m),C1(29/04,7050m),C2(25/05,7650m),C3(26/05,8200m),Smt(27/05)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  BC  16/04  4900m
  ABC 25/04  6400m
  C1  29/04  7050m
  C2  25/05  7650m
  C3  26/05  8200m
  Smt 27/05  by all members (apart from Kobler and Schittich), Dendi, Kusang,
             Gelu, Nuru Wangchu, Mingma Dendi, Gyalgen, Nima, Lhakpa Temba, 
             Lhakpa and Tenji between 4:30 am and 5:30 am.

  Summit team left C2 at 10 pm. Weather was calm and clear. Straightforward climb. They spent between 30 minutes and one hour on the summit. They descended to C1, where they had a rest and then carried on to ABC, where they arrived at 3:30 pm.

  They saw Kilian Jornet going up at about 8300m (where the body of the Australian climber Frank Marchetti was) at about 9 am on his way to the summit.

  Schittich reached C2 on 25 May and decided to abandon the climb as she did not feel strong enough. She descended to ABC on 26 May.

  Kobler stayed at ABC as BC manager.

  Team left ABC on 28 May.

  Fixed rope: 
    Up to 8300m by Chinese, rest by Arun Treks and Kari Kobler Sherpas.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C1 to summit to ABC by members and Sherpas.


expid: EVER17174
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Ralf Dujmovits
sponsor: Dujmovits Everest 2017
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2017-04-24
smtdate: 2017-05-27
termdate: 2017-05-30
termnote: Abandoned at 8580m due to coldness
campsites: BC(24/04,4900m),ABC(27/04,6400m),C1(01/05,7000m),C2(08/05,7700m),C3(26/05,8300m),xxx(27/05,8680m)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  CBC 24/04  4900m
  ABC 27/04  6400m
  C1  01/05  7000m
  C2  08/05  7700m		
  C3  26/05  8300m
  HPt 27/05  8580m by Dujmovits and Namgyal at 4:30 am.

  After acclimatization Dujmovits went back down to CBC on 15 May. He stayed there until 21 May. High Point team started from C3 at 1 am. Weather was calm and clear. Dujmovits was feeling very strong. At about 4 am it started to snow and get windy at the 1st Step. Dujmovits got cold very quickly and found some protection from the wind on the rock and contemplated what to do. After about 10 minutes he decided to go down. Namgyal told him to take some oxygen, which he did for the descent as his no-O2 ascent was over anyway. They descended to C3, where they arrived at 5 am. Dujmovits slept for a bit and then they descended to ABC. On the way he stopped at C1, where he met the Kobler team and they sat down and chatted for a while. Got to ABC at about 3:30 pm.

  On 28 May to CBC. He felt very tired and took 7 hours to get there. Left CBC on 30 May.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used on descent from 8580m to 7700m by Dujmovits
    From 7700m to high point to 7700m by Namgyal Sherpa

  Sherpa:
    Namgya/Namgyal, Gyabla, Lelep, Taplejung, 11/08/1971


expid: EVER17175
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Jon Gupta
sponsor: Mountain Expeditions Everest North 2017
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2017-04-17
smtdate: 2017-05-16
smttime: 0445
termdate: 2017-05-19
campsites: BC(17/04,4900m),ABC(26/04,6400m),C1(04/05,7000m),C2(14/05,7650m),C3(15/05,8200m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  17/04  4900m
  ABC 26/04  6400m
  C1  04/05  7000m
  C2  14/05  7650m
  C3  15/05  8200m
  Smt 16/05  by Gupta, Hughes, Lhakpa Wangchu and Lila Tamang at 4:45 am.

  Summit team left C3 at 8:30 pm on 15 May. Perfect conditions, weather was cold. About another 15 other people on the summit. Spent half an hour on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at 4 pm. When they arrived there they had winds of about 80km/h. On 17 May the winds were still high down to ABC.

  Left ABC on 19 May.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C1 to summit to 6600m by Hughes
    C2 to summit to C2 by Gupta, C2 to summit to C2 by Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Wangchu, Pangboche, 23/10/1986
    Tamang, Lila Bahadur, Khaimrang, 15/10/1966

achievment:
  Hughes youngest British person to ever climb Everest from both sides, as well as the 1st English woman and the youngest European woman to achieve this feat


expid: EVER17176
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Dominik Mueller
sponsor: Amical Alpin Everest Expedition 2017
countries: Austria
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2017-04-14
smtdate: 2017-05-16
smttime: 0645
termdate: 2017-05-22
campsites: BC(14/04,5200m),ABC(18/04,6400m),C1(05/05,7000m),C2(14/05,7650m),C3(15/05,8200m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  14/04  5200m
  ABC 18/04  6400m
  C1  05/05  7000m
  C2  14/05  7650m
  C3  15/05  8200m
  Smt 16/05  by Mueller at 5:15 am, Laengerer at 6:45 am

  Summit team, Netzer and Hilscher left C3 on 15 May at 8:30 pm. Weather was calm and clear. Good snow conditions. Mueller waited for Laengerer for 1-1/2 hours and they both spent another 20 minutes on the summit. They descended to C3, where they arrived at 2 pm. On 17 May to ABC.

  Netzer abandoned climb at 8650m as she was worried that she would not have enough oxygen to go to the summit and back. She descended to ABC.

  Hilscher reached 8500m and felt too tired and abandoned the expedition. He descended to C2.

  Team left ABC on 19 May and CBC on 22 May.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from 7000 to summit or high point to 7000m by all members.


expid: EVER17177
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Daniel Kopp
sponsor: Furtenbach Adventures Everest Expedition 2017
countries: Germany, Netherlands
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2017-04-13
smtdate: 2017-05-21
smttime: 0500
termdate: 2017-05-23
campsites: BC(13/04,4900m),ABC(19/04,6400m),C1(30/04,7000m),C2(19/05,7650m),C3(20/05,8200m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  BC  13/04  4900m
  ABC 19/04  6400m
  C1  30/04  7000m
  C2  19/05  7650m
  C3  20/05  8200m
  Smt 21/05  by Blacha with Ram Nurbu, Boehm with Pemba Rinji at 5 am, 
             von Stam with Sange at 7 am, Holzer with Ang Dorje, Bichler with 
             Ang Kaji, Klocker with Kunga, Vriesendrop with Kusang Sherpa, 
             Mingmar Wangchhu at 7:20 am.

  Van Stam was a day behind the rest of the team and only left ABC on 19 May (others left on 18 May); he had not been feeling well on 18 May and had already slept on oxygen. He went to North Col on 19 May and directly to C3 on 20 May, where he caught up with the others.

  Summit team left C3 between 11 pm and 11:30 pm on 20 May. It had been windy until then, but had died down. They overtook Frank Marchetti (the Australian, who died) just above C3. It was obvious that there was already a problem as there were a few people surrounding him frantically talking on the radio. There was a doctor up there with him and said that he had to descend immediately otherwise he would die. 

  They spent about 15 minutes on the summit, and Bichler, Holzer and Klocker descended to C3, where they arrived at 1 pm. On 22 May, they descended to ABC. It took them about 5 hours to get there. Holzer said that he had a good system with Bichler and Klocker looking after him and clipping him and and out of the rope. The Sherpa surrounding them did not interfere and it was really nice as they were simply "there."

  The rest of the group descended to C1, where they arrived between 2 pm and 4 pm. They passed the dead body of Marchetti at about 8150m. He was hanging on a rope. 

  Ruch reached North Col on 20 May. He had pre-acclimatized with a hypoxic tent previous to the expedition and only arrived at ABC on 8 May. He was not acclimatized well enough and did not feel well due to a cold and abandoned the climb.

  Kopp reached C2 on 20 May. He had a migraine attack and did not go any higher. He descended to ABC on 20 May.

  Furtenbach was going to join the expedition at a later date, but did not for personal reasons.

  Everyone back at ABC on 22 May. Team left ABC on 23 May.

  Holzer is the first blind person to summit from the North side.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C1 to top or high point to C1 by members and Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Kaji Sherpa, 27/04/1988 (Everest X3)
    Kunga Sherpa, 17/07/1992			
    Ang Dorchi Sherpa, 18/08/1985
    Ram Norbu Sherpa, Makalu, 25/11/1980
    Pemba Rinji, Bishinga-7, Okhaldhunga, 10/01/1976
    Kusang Sherpa, 30/11/1974
    Sange Sherpa, 02/01/1992
    Mingmar Wangchhu Sherpa, 28/05/1974


expid: EVER17178
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Adrian Ballinger
sponsor: Alpenglow Rapid Ascent and EverestNoFilter Expedition 2017
countries: Ecuador, USA
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2017-04-18
smtdate: 2017-05-27
smttime: 0545
termdate: 2017-05-31
campsites: BC(18/04,5200m),ABC(24/04,6400m),C1(29/04,7000m),C2(14/05,7700m),C3(26/05,8300m),Smt(27/05)
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  EverestNoFilter team of Ballinger, Estaban and Richards set out from C3 at 11:30 pm on 26 May (except for Richards who started at 1:30 am on 27 May), summited at 10:53 am on 27 May, stayed 12 minutes, then descended to ABC arriving at 10:30 pm. Calm winds, warm night, cloudy, light snow.

  Oxygen:
    Used by Richards from 8600m
    Used by Estaban from 7000m
    Used by Sherpas from 7000m
    Not used by Ballinger

  Everest Rapid Ascent team of Peele, Blais and Entwistle set out from C3 at 12:30 am on 27 May, summited at 5:45 am, stayed 20 minutes, then descended to ABC arriving at 6 pm.

  Kirk Allen went only to ABC, then was called home for a family emergency.

  Oxygen:
    Used by members from 7000m to 7000m
    Used by Sherpas from 7500m to 7500m

  Sherpas:
    Panuru Sherpa (sirdar)
    Dorje Sonam Gyalzen Sherpa
    Palden Sherpa
    Mingma Sherpa
    Pasang Rinji Sherpa 
    Nawang Sherpa
    Phurba Sherpa


expid: EVER17179
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Chile
leaders: Ernesto Olivares Miranda
sponsor: Expedicion Chilena Fastco 2017
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2017-04-20
smtdate: 2017-05-20
smttime: 0845
termdate: 2017-05-23
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
campsites:
  BC(20/04,5180m),IC(25/04,5800m),ABC(26/04,6400m),C1(30/04,7100m),C2(17/05,7800m),C3(19/05,8300m),Smt(20/05)

routememo:
  BC  20/04  5180m
  IC  25/04  5800m
  ABC 26/04  6400m
  C1  30/04  7100m
  C2  17/05  7800m
  C3  19/05  8300m
  Smt 20/05  by Leal, Lhakpa Chhiri at 11 am.

  Leal and Olivares started from C3 at 2 am on summit push. Conditions were good, very cold and clear. At 4 am at 8525m Olivares told Leal that he would not continue as he couldn't feel his right foot. He turned around with his Sherpa. 

  Leal spent 30 minutes on the summit; on the descent he reached C3 at 3:30 pm and C2 at 8 pm. Olivares and Leal met again at ABC on 21 May. They left BC on 23 May.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used by Leal and Lhakpa Chhiri from C2 to summit and down to C2
    By Olivares and his Sherpa from C2 to 8525m and down to C2. 

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Chhiri (Sonam), Pangboche
    Lhakpa Tshering (Lakpa Chhiring), Pangboche

accidents:
  Olivares got frostbite at his right foot and was hospitalized in Kathmandu on 23 May (he will recover 100% according to doctor).


expid: EVER17180
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Chatur Tamang
sponsor: Makalu Adventure Everest 2017
countries: Russia, Ukraine
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2017-04-14
smtdate: 2017-05-22
smttime: 0545
termdate: 2017-05-25
campsites: BC(14/04,4900m),ABC(20/04,6400m),C1(27/04,7000m),C2(20/05,7650m),C3(21/05,8200m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Makalu Extreme Treks
routememo:
  BC  14/04  4900m
  ABC 20/04  6400m
  C1  27/04  7000m
  C2  20/05  7650m	
  C3  21/05  8200m
  Smt 22/05  by Sadetskiy, Telnov, Kovalev, Grushko, Magomed, Chatur Tamang, 
             Ram Kaji Tamang, Pasang Chhiri Sherpa, Lhakpa Zarok Sherpa, 
             Tembe Sherpa at 8 am (CST)

  Summit team left C3 at 11 pm (CST). Weather was good and calm. It was a good day. They spent about one hour summit, then descended to C1, where they arrived at about 5 pm.

  All Sherpas, Grushko and Chatur Tamang descended to ABC, where they arrived at 10 pm. Everyone back at ABC on 23 May. Team left ABC on 24 May and CBC on 25 May	

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C1 to top to C1 by members and Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Ram Kaji Tamang, Kanku-4, Solukhumbu, 21/04/1988 (1st time) (nephew of Chatur)
    Pasang Chhiri, Namche, 22/08/1993 (1st time summit)
    Lhakpa, Zarok, Namche, 11/10/1978
    Tembe, Ghunsa, Lelep-9, 15/04/1987 (he goes by Tembe)
    Chatur Tamang, Sochi, Russia, 25/08/1973


expid: EVER17181
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Chhiring Dorje Sherpa
sponsor: Rolwaling Excursions Everest Expedition 2017
countries: Poland, Sweden, USA
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2017-04-18
smtdate: 2017-05-21
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2017-05-28
campsites: BC(18/04,4900m),ABC(29/04,6400m),C1(03,18/05,7000m),C2(19/05,7650m),C3(20/05,8200m),Smt(21-22/05)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  BC  18/04  4900m
  ABC 29/04  6400m
  C1  03/05  7000m (and 18/05)
  C2  19/05  7650m				
  C3  20/05  8200m		
  Smt 21/05  by Akerberg, Ang Mingma at 7 am
  Smt 22/05  by Breckheim and Chhiring Dorjee at 8:20 am, 
             Machnik and Pasang Lama at 8:10 am.

  21 May summit team left C3 at 11 pm on 20 May. Weather was calm, warm up to about 8700m, when it got a bit windy and cold. On the summit it was windy and cold. They stayed up there for about 15 minutes, then descended to ABC, where there arrived at 9 pm. Akerberg descended to CBC on 22 May.

  Machnik and Pasang Lama left 1:10 am and Breckheim and Chhiring Dorjee left at 12:30 am. The weather was calm and sunny. Straightforward climb. They spent about 40 minutes on the summit and descended to C3, where Machnik and Pasang Lama arrived at 2 pm; Breckheim and Chhiring Dorjee at 3 pm.

  On 23 May, all down to ABC. Very windy day. They stayed at CBC for 3 nights to make sure everything was clean. Left ABC on 24 May and BC on 28 May.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C1 to top to C1 by member and Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Mingma (Ang Mingma), Yilajung, 21/02/1968
    Pasang Lama Bhote, Hungung, Hatiya, 17/10/1984


expid: EVER17182
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Sean James
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Everest North Expedition 2017
countries: Slovenia, USA
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2017-04-12
smtdate: 2017-05-16
smttime: 0230
termdate: 2017-05-21
campsites: BC(12/04,5200m),ABC(15/04,6400m),C1(25/04,7000m),C2(14/05,7650m),C3(15/05,8300m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Makalu Adventure
routememo:
  BC  12/04  5350m
  ABC 15/04  6400m
  C1  25/04  7000m
  C2  14/05  7650m
  C3  15/05  8300m
  Smt 16/05  by Starling, Christensen, James, Rotar, Phurba and Ang Dawa at 
             about 2:30 am.

  Summit team and Mills left C3 at 7:30 pm on 15 May. It was calm up to about 11 pm. At 8600m it got very cold with slight winds. They spent about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to ABC, where they reached between 5 pm and 8 pm.

  Mills reached about 8000m on 15 May. He was too tired to carry on and descended to C1, where he spent the night.

  Everyone down at ABC on 16 May. Left BC on 21 May.

  Sherpas:
    Phurba Wangchhu Sherpa, Waku-9 Solukhumbu, 12/05/1975
    Ang Dawa Sherpa, Sedua, Makalu, 07/02/1978 

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from 7000 to 8000m to 7000m by Mills
    From 7450m to summit to 7100m by Christensen and Starling
    From 7650m to summit 7800m [by others].


expid: EVER17183
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Mingma Dorje Sherpa
sponsor: Climbalaya Everest North Expedition 2017
countries: France, USA
approach: Lhasa->Tingri (not to Kathmandu)
bcdate: 2017-04-07
smtdate: 2017-05-22
smttime: 0415
termdate: 2017-05-25
campsites: BC(07/04,5200m),ABC(12/04,6400m),C1(18/04,7000m),C2(20/05,7800m),C3(21/05,8300m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Climbalaya
routememo:
  Entire team departed C3 at 9:40 pm on 21 May, summited at 4:15 am (NST) on 22 May, stayed 30 minutes, the descended to ABC. Perfect weather - very low wind and clear sky.

  The two Andersons moved earlier to ABC with the expectation of summiting on May 16, but abandoned this attempt (without moving above ABC) due to changing/unpredictable weather.

  Chaygneaud-Dupuy reached BC on 15 April and ABC on 21 April.

  Oxygen: Members used from C1 to smt to ABC, Sherpas used from C1 to smt to ABC.


expid: EVER17184
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Victor Bobok
sponsor: Wind of Freedem Everest Expedition 2017
countries: Ukraine
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2017-04-16
smtdate: 2017-05-16
smttime: 0530
termdate: 2017-05-19
campsites: BC(16/04,4900m),ABC(23/04,6400m),C1(03/05,7000m),C2(14/05,7650m),C3(15/05,8200m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Climbalaya
routememo:
  BC  16/04  4900m
  ABC 23/04  6400m
  C1  03/05  7000m
  C2  14/05  7650m		
  C3  15/05  8200m
  Smt 16/05  by all members, Mingma Nuru, Pemba Tenjin, Pema Sherpa, Pema Sherpa,
             Lhakpa Nuru at 5:30 am.

  Summit team left C3 at 9 pm on 15 May. Perfect conditions, weather was cold. Perfect weather, no wind and calm. Spent half an hour on the summit and descended to ABC where they arrived between 6 pm and 9 pm. 

  Team left ABC on 18 May.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C1 to summit to ABC by members and Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Tenjin Sherpa, Namche-6, 28/06/93
    Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa, Khumjung-9, 18/06/1980
    Pema Sherpa, Namche-8, 28/08/1985
    Mingma Nuru Sherpa, Namche-8, 28/01/86
    Pema Sherpa, Namche-7, 09/08/1988


expid: EVER17185
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Romania
leaders: Horia Colibasanu
sponsor: Romanian on Everest
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2017-04-16
smtdate: 2017-05-16
smttime: 0905
termdate: 2017-05-20
campsites: BC(16/04,4900m),ABC(23/04,6400m),C1(27/04,7000m),C2(30/04,7650m),C3(15/05,8200m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking (Climbalaya pmt)
routememo:
  BC  16/04  4900m
  ABC 23/04  6400m
  C1  27/04  7000m
  C2  30/04  7650m	
  C3  15/05  8200m
  Smt 16/05  by Colibasanu at 9:05 am.

  When Colibasanu arrived at C2 on the summit push, his tent and his ice axes were gone. He found the bag with his food and foot warmers and found Cimbalaya's tent and he spent the night with the Sherpas. On the way to C3 he was hungry and stopped at a rock and cooked some soup.

  At C3 he slept the night with three Sherpas of Climbalaya (Victor Bobok). He left C3 at 11 pm. Straightforward climb. He spent about 15 minutes on the summit. He descended to C3, where he arrived at 4 pm. He was totally exhausted. The Climbalaya Sherpas had left a tent at C3, which he used to stay.

  On 17 May to C1, on 18 May he descended to ABC. It took him about 3 hours to get his tent out of the snow. He left ABC on 19 May.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


expid: EVER17186
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiroyuki Kuraoka
sponsor: Mountain Experience Everest North 2017
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2017-04-17
smtdate: 2017-05-27
smttime: 0330
termdate: 2017-05-30
campsites: BC(17/04,5150m),ABC(28/04,6400m),C1(03/05,7050m),C2(25/05,7700m),C3(26/05,8300m),Smt(27/05)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  Team left C3 at 10 pm or later:

    Cho and Pasang Tendi left C3 at 10 pm, summited at 3:30 am
    Hiraoka, Shibata and Pemba Nuru left C3 at 11 pm, summited at 5 am
    Hayama and Nima Nurbu left C3 and 12:00 and summited at 4:30 am
    Hoshino, Pemba Tenzing and Nima Kanchha left C3 at 12:00 and summited at 4:45 am
    Kuraoka left C3 at 12:20 pm and summited at 4:30 am
    Pemba Gyaltsen stayed at C3

  Slight west-southwest wind, warm, snowing.

  All Sherpas and Hoshino, Hayama, Kuraoka back to ABC from 16:00-17:30 pm.
  Hiraoka, Shibata and Cho stayed a night at North Col (C1).

  Oxygen:
    Members from C1 to smt to C1, Sherpas from C3 to smt to C3.


expid: EVER17187
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Frank Marchetti
sponsor: Expedition Himalaya Everest North 2017
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2017-04-17
smtdate: 2017-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 8500m due to climber's death
campsites: BC(17/04,5180m),ABC(23/04,6400m),C1(03/05,7100m),C2(19/05,7700m),C3(20/05,8300m),xxx(21/05,8500m)
agency: Adventure Thamserku (Expedition Himalaya pmt)
routememo:
  CBC 17/04  5180m
  ABC 23/04  6400m
  C1  03/05  7100m
  C2  19/05  7700m
  C3  20/05  8300m
  HPt 21/05  8500m
      21/05  8220m (point of death)

  Went trekking in the Khumbu before flying to Lhasa on 14 April.

  On 8 May Marchetti tagged 7500m and returned to ABC and went back to CBC on 10 May. On 14 May, he ascended back to ABC. He took eight hours from C1 to C2 and used one bottle of oxygen. 

  On summit push he together with the rest of the Trekking Himalayan team left C3 at 8pm on 20 May. Marchetti carried a heavy pack and Mindu was wondering what he was carrying. They reached mushroom rock at 8500m at 1 am on 21 May. Marchetti said that he was having a big problem with his chest, and said: "Don't worry about the summit Mindu, I will still give you the bonus – just help me get down." They reached 8300m at 2:30 am.

  They spent about half an hour resting and having a drink. Frank wanted to go down as quickly as possible. They got to about 30m below the camp. Marchetti got wobbly, could not speak and was unable to communicate. He stared vacantly at the sky and could not sit upright. Mindu turned up the flow rate of his oxygen to 4l per minute. There was no change in his behaviour. He stopped breathing after about 10 minutes. Mindu checked him and attempted CPR for some time, but could not revive him. He stayed with him for about 2 hours and then left.

  When Mindu left, Frank was still attached to the fixed line about 30m below high camp.

  Judith Raines went only ABC (did not intend to go farther).

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C1 to point of death.

  Sherpa
    Tharke Sherpa
    Mindu Sherpa (Dawa Gyalgen's brother)


expid: EVER17188
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: N Col-NE Ridge (up); SE Ridge-S Col (down)
nation: Poland
leaders: Janusz Adamski
sponsor: No Oxygen Solo Everest Expedition
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2017-04-17
smtdate: 2017-05-21
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2017-05-23
campsites: BC(17/04,5180m),ABC(25/04,6400m),C1(29/04,7100m),C2(06/05,7600m),C3(20/05,8300m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks (Expedition Himalaya pmt)
routememo:
  CBC 17/04  5180m
  ABC 25/04  6400m
  C1  29/04  7100m
  C2  06/05  7600m
  C3  20/05  8300m
  Smt 21/05  by Adamski at 8 am.

  Adamski was going to climb without oxygen, but he had too much equipment in his bag as he was planning his traverse and needed gear on the other side. The bag weighed about 15kg to 18kg as he took sleeping bag, stove, gas, food, etc. He started using oxygen from 8300m. He had two bottles of oxygen, which were carried up by his Sherpa to C3. The Sherpa deposited the gear at C3 and descended again.

  Adamski left C3 at 11 pm on 20 May. The weather was calm. Straightforward climb. He reached the summit with three other people from the north side. He spent about 15 minutes on the summit as it was very cold and windy. 

  He descended to C3 on the SOUTH side, where he found an empty tent. He got there at about noon. As he had taken everything including sleeping bag, cooker, gas and food, he had some food and stayed the night at C3.

  On 22 May he descended to BC, where he met his friend Andrew, who had brought his trekking boots and clothes. He changed, packed his climbing gear into his bag and went to Gorak Shep, where he spent the night. From Gorak Shep he sent a text message to his friends (Laurent from Switzerland) from the Trekking Himalaya Team and told them that he was Ok and that they should not worry. On 23 May, he received a text message from his wife that there had been an article about him in the Himalayan Times. That's how he found out that he may be in trouble.

  On 30 May, he is due to have a meeting at the Ministry of Tourism with the Polish consulate and an embassy official, who has come from Delhi. He is now waiting for his verdict. He is staying because he wants to solve the problem and feels sorry that he got other people into trouble.

  Unfortunately, the Chinese authorities announced that due to this illegal traverse Tibet will be closed for ALL mountaineering in autumn 2017.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C3 on north side to top to C4 on south side by Adamski.


expid: EVER17191
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Kilian Jornet
sponsor: Summits Of My Life Everest Expedition 2016
countries: France
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2017-05-10
smtdate: 2017-05-21
smttime: 2359
termdate: 2017-05-29
campsites: BC(10/05,4900m),ABC(12/05,6400m),Smt(21,27/05)
agency: Makalu Adventure
routememo:
  BC  10/05  4900m
  ABC 12/05  6400m
  Smt 21/05  by Jornet at midnight (May 21-22)
  Smt 27/05  by Jornet at 7 pm.

  Acclimatization:

  On 13 May from ABC to 7600m in 3-1/2 hours up and one hour down. One rest day. 
  On 15 May up to 8400m from ABC 6 hours up, and 3-1/2 hours down. 
  On 17 May went down to CBC for 3 days to rest.

  First summit push:

  On 20 May, Jornet left CBC at 10 pm. Reached ABC at 2:30 am in running shoes. Had a 2 hours to rest and put on mountaineering gear. Started again at 4:30 am. Got to C1 at 6:10 am on 21 May. Reached C3 at 11:30 am. He did not use the fixed ropes and climbed the first two ladders on the Second Step. He used the last ladder on the Second Step.

  He reached the summit at midnight. Spent about 10 minutes on the summit. It was clear and not so cold. On the summit, he saw all the headlamps coming up, but no view in the dark. 

  From the bottom of the Third Step, he was passing people going up. He was suffering from an upset stomach, which gave him more trouble than the high altitude. He reached ABC at 6 am.

  He started to feel better at ABC. Monica Piris, the doctor for Alpenglow Expeditions, gave him some medication. On 23 May he descended to CBC, where he recovered. On 25 May he went back to ABC.

  He had carried his rucksack to C3 and left it there on the last leg to the summit. He changed into his downsuit at 7700m. Jornet wears a Salomon boot, which allows him to wear his running shoes inside.

  From CBC to summit to ABC: 26 hours ascent; round trip 33 hours.

  Second summit push:

  On 27 May, he left ABC at 2 am. The reason why he went quite late was the weather forecast, which had predicted high winds for later in the day. Reached C1 at 4 am. He did not make a note for C2. C3 at 10 am. Summit at 7 pm. The weather was windy and snowy. He spent about 10 minutes in the summit. 

  On the way down to C3, he picked up his rucksack and continued for a bit, but then had a blackout. The next memory he has is crossing over toward the North Face. He did not know how he got there. It was around midnight and he had the urgency to sleep. At about 8000m he got under a rock in the rocky part around in the Norton Couloir. He does not remember when left the North Ridge. The only memory he has is climbing toward the right. After having slept for about 2 hours, he woke up at 2 am, his brain was working again. He looked at the GPS and crossed back toward the North Ridge. He thinks he went across the Messner Crossing to get back to the North Ridge again.

  After sleeping for about 2 hours. And on 28 May he reached ABC at 6 am.

  From ABC to summit: 17 hours; round trip back to ABC 26 hours.

  Left ABC: 28 May
  Left CBC: 29 May

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


expid: EVER17192
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Anita Devi
sponsor: Expedition Himalaya Everest Expedition 2017
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2017-04-17
smtdate: 2017-05-21
smttime: 0715
termdate: 2017-05-24
campsites: BC(17/04,5100m),ABC(24/04,6400m),C1(27/04,7100m),C2(19/05,7700m),C3(20/05,8300m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Expedition Himalaya
routememo:
  BC  17/04  5100m
  ABC 24/04  6400m
  C1  27/04  7100m (North Col)
  C2  19/05  7700m
  C3  20/05  8300m
  Smt 21/05  by Anita Devi and Tarke Sherpa at 7:15 am (NST).

  Devi and her Sherpa Tarke left C3 on their summit push at 10 pm. Conditions were Ok. At 4 pm (NST) they were back at C3. On 22 May they went down from C3 to ABC. On 23 May they went to BC. 24 May to Lhasa, 25 May to Kathmandu.

  On the way up Anita lost her mittens at C3, she had to summit with normal gloves. She felt cold at her hands, but luckily didn't get any frostbite. Tarke's oxygen mask broke down at the 2nd Step. After one hour he got a new mask from another Sherpa.

  Anita Devi is the first Indian woman to summit Everest from both North and South sides. 

  Left BC: 24 May by Jeep 

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used by Devi and Tarke from North Col to summit and to North Col.


expid: AMAD17106
peakid: AMAD
year: 2017
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Dawa Gyaljen Sherpa
sponsor: Ama Dablam Filming Expedition 2017
countries: Austria, Italy
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Team was to film a recreation of the attempt of Ama Dablam in 1979 by Reinhold Messner and the rescue of Peter Hillary of the New Zealand team.

  Cast:
    Reinhold Messner - played by Simon Messner (his son)
    Oswald Oelz - played by Vitus Auer (brother of Hanjoern Auer)
    
    


expid: ANN117106
peakid: ANN1
year: 2017
route1: N Face
nation: Norway
leaders: Haakon Aasvang
sponsor: Norwegian Annapurna I Expedtion 2017
approach: From near Lete by helicopter
bcdate: 2017-04-14
smtdate: 2017-04-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6050m after being hit by avalanche
campsites: BC(14/04,4050m),C1(17/04,5100m),C2(18/04,5700m),xxx(19/04,6050m)
agency: Top Himalaya Guides
routememo:
  The Aasvang team along with the two Chileans were hit by an ice avalanche on 19 April at about 6050m. They did not fall but Juan Pablo's helmet was broken and they lost their rope and their rucksack.

  Aasvang abandoned the expedition after the avalanche.


expid: CHOY78302
peakid: CHOY
year: 1978
route1: W Ridge-W Face
nation: W Germany
leaders: Hans Dieter Sauer
approach: Rolwaling->Tashi Laptsa->Namche->Gokyo->Nangpa La
bcdate: 1978-10-27
smtdate: 1978-10-28
termdate: 1978-10-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6380m
campsites: BC(27/10),xxx(28/10,6380m)
agency: None
routememo:
  Sauer, in his own words a normal climber (normalbergsteiger) did his first mountaineering in the Himalayas in November 1976. He attempted the 6340m peak Ombigaichen (at that time without name on the Schneider map) via Mingbo La. Having reached a height of around 6200m, he decided to return because it was already late in the afternoon. But he felt still strong and the idea struck him that it could be possible to scale a 8000m peak alone provided that you have the right equipment and sufficient provisions with you.

  Back in Germany he made calculations on the necessary calorie and liquid intake, tested tents on glaciers and measured how much fuel is needed for melting snow and cooking. He came to the conclusion that indeed a solo ascent of an 8000m peak should be possible.

  Being sure that he would not get a permit Sauer decided that the undertaking had to be done clandestine. But on which mountain? The book by Herbert Tichy: Cho Oyu – Gnade der Goetter (English translation: Cho Oyu, By the Favour of the Gods), the account of the first ascent of the summit in 1954 offered the solution. Like the small expedition of Tichy he would cross the Nangpa La into Tibet (China) and climb the mountain via the NW Face. There he was out of reach of the Nepalese authorities hoping that Chinese military and police did not watch the Nangpa La.

  At that time Sherpas and Tibetans were allowed to cross the Nangpa La, but to foreigners the pass was off limits from the Nepalese side as well. A sentry was established in Thame. To avoid him Sauer decided to cross from Thonak Tso (north of Gokyo) to Sumna Phug (all names are taken from the updated map Khumbu Himal by Nepal-Kartenwerk der Arbeitsgemeinschaft fur vergleichende Hochgebirgsforschung – Technische Universitaet, Dresden 2013).

  Up to Gokyo Sauer had the help of porters, but thereafter he was alone and managed on his own. Having a load of about 50 kg he split it in two parts. He lugged up 25 kg at a time, deposited it, went back to pick up the second load, etc. In this way the distance he had to cover tripled. Therefore it took him 9 days to reach a height of 5300m before the Nangpa La (around Dzasampa) on October 18. Being already short of food he decided to return to Namche to buy new provisions. Taking the direct route to Namche via Thame telling the sentry that he came from Gokyo he reached Namche within 2 days on Friday, October 20. The next day, Saturday was,  (and is) market day in Namche. Sauer bought 5 kg of tsampa, a lump of yak butter, chiura (beaten rice), a bag of peanuts, 5 boiled eggs and other items. Next day he went back via Thame without being noticed by the sentry and reached Dzasampa again on October 25. He crossed the Nangpa La the next day, this time ferrying the total load of now roughly 40 kg in one go.
   
  The frontier is marked by a pole with prayer flags. Before passing it Sauer watched the landscape very carefully for any movement of persons in the foreground or vehicles in the distance in the plain. But there was no sign of human activity.
  On October 27 he had established himself with his tent near the rocky ledge of the NW Face. The next day he climbed the rocky ledge, carrying a snow shovel, ropes and other climbing equipment, 5 gas cartridges and most of his foodstuff (in total 18 kg). He reached the snow ridge leading into the NW Face at a height of 6380m, according to the altimeter. He deposited the material and descended to his tent planning to move up with the tent next day and start the climb. However, during the night the weather turned bad and next morning it was snowing heavily. Being left with only one gas cartridge and little foodstuff he thought it too risky to wait for an improvement of the weather. So he decided to abandon the attempt and to return immediately over the Nangpa La. But approaching the pass the snow drift was so thick that there was zero visibility and he was forced to pitch his tent. Luckily next morning the weather was fine and he could cross the pass, reaching Namche after three days again via Thame passing the sentry at dawn. Two days later he flew out from Syangboche above Namche.


expid: AMAD17301
peakid: AMAD
year: 2017
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Austin Shannon
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Ama Dablam Expedition 2017
countries: Canada, New Zealand, S Africa
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Chhukung Ri->BC
bcdate: 2017-10-25
smtdate: 2017-11-09
smttime: 0645
termdate: 2017-11-12
othersmts: Climbed Chhukung Ri
campsites: BC(25/10,4700m),C1(06/11,5800m),C2(07/11,6100m),C3(08/11,6200m),Smt(09/11)
accidents: Hamlin slight frostbite on big toe
agency: Beyul Adventure
routememo:
  BC  25/10  4700m
  C1  06/11  5800m
  C2  07/11  6100m
  C3  08/11  6200m
  Smt 09/11  by Weirich, Metcalfe, Shannon, Clark, Kayl, Hamlin, Phunuru, 
             Ang Karma, Sherpa Fura, Chhewang Lendu at 6:45 am.

  Summit team and Triska left C3 at 3 am. Clear skies but very cold. Straightforward climb. Team spent about an hour on the summit and descended to C3 to pick up Triska and then down to C2, where they arrived at 2 pm.

  Triska turned back after about 30 minutes due to fatigue. He returned to C3 to wait for the summit team and then descended to C2.

  Hampson-Tindale reached just below the Yellow Tower at about 5900m on 1 Nov. He felt altitude sick. He descended to BC and left BC on 2 Nov.

  O'Connor reached just below the Yellow Tower at about 5900m on 1 Nov. He felt too tired to continue. He went back to C1 on summit rotation, but felt altitude sick again and descended.

  Gilbert reached BC on 25 Oct. He had stomach problems and left BC on 1 Nov.

  Rodgers reached C1 on 1 Nov. He felt altitude sick and left BC on 3 Nov.

  Smargiasso reached C2 on 1 Nov on the first rotation. When he reached BC, he decided to leave as the climb was too hazardous.

  Team left BC on 12 Nov.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

  Sherpas:
    Phu Nuru (Phunuru), Phortse, 16/05/1980
    Ang Karma, Phortse, 25/07/1974
    Fura Sherpa, Phortse, 05/05/1996
    Chhewang Lendu (Tsewang Lendu), Phortse, 19/04/1980


expid: AMAD17302
peakid: AMAD
year: 2017
route1: SW Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Robert Smith
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Ama Dablam Expedition 2017
countries: Canada, Ireland, USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2017-10-22
smtdate: 2017-11-01
smttime: 0850
termdate: 2017-11-03
campsites: BC(22/10,4600m),ABC((25/10,5450m),C1(26/10,5800m),C2(31/10,6050m),Smt(01/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Team left high camp (C2) at 2 am, summited at 8:50 am, stayed 30 minutes, then descended back to C2 between 2 pm and 6 pm.

  Route from C2-grey tower-mushroom ridge-old C3-summit slopes right of Dablam. Fresh snow on summit slopes. The Adventure Consultants groupp assed an Adventure Peaks group at the start of mushroom ridge, that turned around in descent having left at 22;00 31 Oct. The AC group passed 2 Korean climbers with 2 Sherpas on the summit slopes. 1 Korean was on oxygen! They were moving very slowly. The Koreans had left at 19:00 31 Oct. Smith summitted at 8:50 am, and their last client summitted 10:00. The Koreans were on the summit when the AC group left at 10:15 am.

  Dan Puttkemery reached C2 on 31 Oct, but chose not to attempt the summit and stayed in C2.


expid: AMAD17304
peakid: AMAD
year: 2017
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Ireland
leaders: Robert Mortell
sponsor: SummitClimb Ama Dablam Expedition 2017
countries: Austria, Canada, China, Denmark, Germany, Norway, Romania
approach: Lukla->Namche->BC (see route notes)
bcdate: 2017-10-16
smtdate: 2017-10-26
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2017-10-31
othersmts: Summited Island Peak
campsites: BC(16/10,4600m),C1(23/10,5800m),C2(25/10,6000m),Smt(26,28/10,20/11)
accidents: Dubuc very light frostbite at fingertip, expecting 100% recovery
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  Approach: Bulski and Lees via Rolwaling and Tashi Laptsa into Khumbu; rest by flight to Lukla and trekking to BC (some climbed Island Peak).

  BC  16/10  4600m
  C1  23/10  5800m
  C2  25/10  6000m
  Smt 26/10  by Mortell, Rasmussen, Orywa, Lanthier, Staub, Cheung, 
             Tenji Sherpa, Ang Dawa Sherpa, Dawa Jangbu Sherpa
  Smt 28/10  by Lees, Olsen, Lanctot, Dubuc, Phujung Bhote, Lakpa Tendu Sherpa. 
  Smt 20/11  by Westreicher and Tenji Sherpa (see below).

  First summit group started from C2 at 1:30 am on 26 Oct, all members in that group except Rasmussen reached summit between 9:30 and 10 am. Stayed on top for 10-30 minutes. Rasmussen with Jangbu Sherpa summitted at 4 pm. Everyone back at C2 by 4 pm, except Rasmussen and Jangbu, who arrived at C2 at 2 am on 27 Oct. "Rasmussen isn't the fastest but has a big engine." Others encouraged him to turn around but he continued with Jangbu. Got back to C2 after 24-hour summit push exhausted, but without injury. All except Rasmussen descended to BC on 27 Oct (arrival between 1 pm and 4 pm). Rasmussen went down to C1 on 27/10 and to BC on 28 Oct (arrival at 7 pm).

  Second summit group started from C2 at 1 am on 28 Oct. Got to summit at 10 am, arrival back at C2 at 4 pm. All returned to BC on 29 Oct.

  Both groups had great weather on summit days, weather turned bad on 29 Oct in the afternoon.

  Bulski never went above BC, he hurt his back going to the toilet and had to abandon climb.

  Miu cancelled climb altogether for unknown reasons, maybe personal issues according to Mortell. He left Nepal already.

  Left BC on: Mortell, Lanctot, Dubuc on 31 Oct, rest of team on 30 Oct.

  Westreicher flew to 6 Nov and arrived at BC on 10 Nov. He went to C1 on 17 Nov, C2 on 19 Nov, and summited on 20 Nov at 8:45 with Tenji Sherpa, descended to BC and left on the same day.

  Oxygen: Not used, taken for emergency.

  Fixed rope: Tenji Sherpa repaired small parts of the ropes on descent from summit to C2.

  Other peaks: Island Peak by Bulski, Lees, Lanctot, Dubuc 

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Tendu Sherpa, Patle, 28/03/1977
    Tenji Sherpa, Patle, 01/06/1982
    Dawa Jangbu Sherpa, Patle, 04/06/1979
    Phujung Bhote, Hatiya-1, 31/05/1979
    Ang Dawa Sherpa, Patle, 02/12/1979


expid: AMAD17305
peakid: AMAD
year: 2017
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Juergen Greher
sponsor: Amical Alpin Ama Dablam Expedition 2017
countries: Germany
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2017-10-26
smtdate: 2017-11-01
smttime: 0625
termdate: 2017-10-29
campsites: BC(26/10,4600m),...,Smt(01/11)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Bogenschuetz and Bauer only went to 5400m.

  Greher, Soell and Pema Sherpa summited on 1 Nov at 6:25 am.


expid: AMAD17306
peakid: AMAD
year: 2017
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Paul Noble
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Ama Dablam Expedition 2017
countries: France
approach: Lukla->Island Peak->Ama Dablam BC
bcdate: 2017-10-28
smtdate: 2017-11-02
termdate: 2017-11-06
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to member fatique
campsites: BC(28/10,4600m),C1(31/10,5700m),C2(01/11,6100m),xxx(02/11,6400m)
agency: Makalu Adventure (Snowy Horizon pmt)
routememo:
  BC  28/10  4600m
  C1  31/10  5700m
  C2  01/11  6100m
  Hpt 02/11  6400m  at Mushroom Ridge by Blum and Noble.

  Ang Kami, Ang Dawa, Blum and Noble set off from C2 at 10:15 pm on 1 Nov. They never really slept at C2 since they arrived from C1 the same day. They got to 6400m at maybe 4:30 am when they made the decision to turn around. Noble and Blum felt they were too slow and fatigued to go farther. They had been carrying heavy bags up to C1 the previous days and this had exhausted them too much. They went down to C1, arriving at 2 pm. Next day on 3 Nov down to BC.

  Beesley had a virus in Kathmandu and flew home before team left for Lukla.

  James Anstee spent a night at C2 on 1 Nov. He suffered from insomnia during expedition and felt he couldn't do it. On 2 Nov he went down from C2 to BC alone.

  Norwegian Sigve Solheim was on permit, but injured his shoulder before and didn't participate in expedition.

  Team left BC on 6 Nov.

  Oxygen: Taken for emergency, not used.

  Hired: 
    Ang Kami, Makalu
    Ang Dawa, Makalu (sirdar)


expid: AMAD17307
peakid: AMAD
year: 2017
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Ryszard Pawlowski
sponsor: Patagonia Mountain Agency (PMA) Ama Dablam Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla->Island Peak->Ama Dablam BC
bcdate: 2017-10-23
smtdate: 2017-10-27
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2017-10-29
othersmts: Summited Island Peak
campsites: BC(23/10,4500m),ABC(24/10,5300m),C1(25/10,5700m),C2(26/10,6000m),Smt(27/10)
agency: Climbalaya
routememo:
  BC  23/10  4500m (Ama Dablam Lodge)
  ABC 24/10  5400m
  C1  25/10  5700m
  C2  26/10  6000m
  Smt 27/10  by Berendt and Nowak.

  Team started for summit from C2 at 2 am, Nowak reached top at 11 am, Berendt at 12 pm. Nowak waited on the summit for Berendt, weather was very good, not much wind. They descended together to C2 (arrival: 9 pm), on 28 Oct they went down to Ama Dablam Lodge.

  Strelau and Bulczak were one day behind the rest of the group. They together with Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa started summit push from C2 at 1 am on 28 Oct. Bulczak didn't feel well and had some problems with his eyes. He turned around with Lhakpa Nuru at 6500m at 1 pm. They went down to C2, arriving at 7 pm. Strelau went on, but had to turn at 6700m at 4 pm because he was too slow and ran out of power. He was back at C2 at 10 pm. Next day Strelau, Bulchak and Lhakpa Nuru went down to Pangboche. 
  Kowalski only made it up to C2.

  Pawlowski was the leader of the group, but was not on permit and never intended to climb himself. Wiktor Wajda climbed Island Peak with the group but wasn't on AMAD permit either.

  Team left BC on 29 Oct.

  Oxygen; Not taken not used.

  Hired: 
    Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa, Phortse, 18/06/1980


expid: AMAD17308
peakid: AMAD
year: 2017
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Marek Chmielarksi
sponsor: Polish Ama Dablam Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla->BC
bcdate: 2017-10-24
smtdate: 2017-11-01
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2017-11-03
campsites: BC(24/10,4600m),ABC(26/10,5300m),C1(30/10,5700m),C2(31/10,6300m),Smt(01/11)
agency: Climbalaya
routememo:
  BC  24/10  4600m 
  ABC 26/10  5300m  
  C1  30/10  5700m
  C2  31/10  6300m 
  Smt 01/11  by Chmielarski and Lange at 12 pm.

  Team initially wanted to acclimatize on normal route and then climb West Face, on a route called "Free Tibet 2065". But Malek was sick and hospitalized before expedition. He joined them on trip, but was still feeling sick and couldn't climb any higher than ABC. 

  Chmielarski and Lange decided West Face was too hard to do by only two climbers and just went for SW Ridge instead. Malek spent night at ABC on 26 Oct, then went down again. Chmielarski and Lange started for summit from C3 at 8 am, got to summit at 12 pm. Stayed on top very briefly; it was very cold and windy. Then went down to C1 (arrival: 8 pm). Next day to BC (2 Nov). Team left BC on 3 Nov.

  Oxygen: Not taken not used.


expid: AMAD17309
peakid: AMAD
year: 2017
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Wolfgang Pohl
sponsor: German Ama Dablam Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla->Lobuche East->Ama Dablam BC
bcdate: 2017-11-07
smtdate: 2017-11-11
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2017-11-13
campsites: BC(07/11,4700m),C1(09/11,5600m),C2(10/11,6100m),Smt(11/11)
agency: Climbalaya
routememo:
  BC  07/11  4700m
  C1  09/11  5600m
  C2  10/11  6100m
  Smt 11/11  by Steinberg and Phurba Namgyal Sherpa at 7:30 am.

  Summit team left C2 at 00:30 am. Weather was clear, but windy. They spent about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at 2 pm. On 12 Nov to BC.

  Wolfgang and Max Pohl reached base camp on 7 Nov. They spent two nights at BC, but as Max Pohl had contracted salmonella prior to arriving at BC, Wolfgang (his father) and he left BC on 9 Nov.

  Steinberg left BC on 13 Nov.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

  Sherpa:
    Phurba Namgyal, Beding, 07/02/1986


expid: AMAD17310
peakid: AMAD
year: 2017
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Sergei Kovalev
sponsor: AlpIndustrie Ama Dablam Expedition 2017
countries: France, Russia
smtdate: 2017-11-10
smttime: 1200
campsites: BC,C1,C2,Smt(10-11/11)
agency: 7 Summits Adventure (Thamserku Trekking pmt)
routememo:
  Rozov and Itzstein summited on 10 Nov at noon and descended to C2 and 6000m. Rozov went back up to the summit on 11 Nov and jumped from the top in his wingsuit and was subsequently killed in descent.


expid: AMAD17312
peakid: AMAD
year: 2017
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Xavier Arias
sponsor: Infinit Emotions Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Kalapattar->Lobuche East->Ama Dablam BC
bcdate: 2017-10-26
smtdate: 2017-11-01
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2017-11-03
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East
campsites: BC(26/10,4500m),C1(28/10,5700m),C2(31/10,6000m),Smt(01/11)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  BC  26/10  4500m
  C1  28/10  5700m
  C2  31/10  6000m
  Smt 01/11  Arias, Pont and Aymar at 12 pm.

  Climb not difficult, BC to C1 easy but long, C1 to C2 difficult but ropes made it easy.

  Started at 4 am from C2. Reached summit at 12 pm. Stayed on top for 30 minutes. Weather was good until 10 am then deteriorated. After summit team went down to C2, wanted to go down to C1 initially, but found a sick Korean climber at 6600m. He was alone when they found him.
   
  He was in a team of 3 Koreans and 2 Sherpas, all Koreans got sick. Sherpas could only bring down 2 Koreans, so one of them had to stay behind alone. Sherpas had given him oxygen, but he showed no reaction. Arias gave him an injection of dexamethasone. Sherpas had called their BC for rescue team, BC promised to send Sherpas, but Sherpas never came. 

  Meanwhile, Ramon Pont continued descent, he arrived at C2 at maybe 8 pm. Arias and Aymar stayed with the Korean, they tried to talk to him, but he was unable to speak. They tried to bring him down using their rope, but it was too difficult. At 6 pm, Spaniards built a snow cave for the Korean. They had to descend themselves as it was getting dark. It was windy and snowing. They put the Korean in the snow cave and secured him using ice screws. Korean tried to speak, but Spaniards couldn't understand him. Then they went down, they descended maybe 10 meters when the Korean started to scream. They looked up and saw him removing the anchors, one by one. Removing the last anchor, he fell down West Face, for maybe 1500m. Spaniards saw him falling down, maybe 10 meters away. He fell from 6580m at 7:30 pm. His name / team / agency is unknown to Spaniards, Arias estimated him to be 65 years old, he was wearing a black/yellow downsuit. 

  Arias and Aymar arrived at C2 at 11 pm. On 2 Nov all three members went down to BC. Body of Korean was found and flown out by helicopter two days after accident. 

  Team left BC on 3 Nov.

  Oxygen: Not taken not used.


expid: AMAD17313
peakid: AMAD
year: 2017
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Jose Torrents Mendez
sponsor: Spanish Ama Dablam Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2017-10-14
smtdate: 2017-10-25
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2017-10-30
campsites: BC(14/10,4500m),C1(17/10,5600m),C2(24/10,5900m),Smt(25/10)
accidents: Jose Torrents Mendez frostbite at middle finger of left hand.
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  BC  14/10  4500m
  C1  17/10  5600m
  C2  24/10  5900m
  Smt 25/10  by all members at 10:30 am.

  Team did whole acclimatization on Ama Dablam, not much trekking or climbing before. On summit day they started from C2 at 1:30 am, arrived at summit at 10:30 am. Stayed on top for one hour, then descended to C2 (arrival: 9 pm). Weather was very cold and windy, especially from C3 to summit. On the descent from summit they saw a German climber (~55 years old, name unknown) who had fallen and looked quite bad, possibly suffering from AMS as well. He was together with his Sherpa, who looked tired as well. They didn't talk much, but stayed with them for maybe 1-2 hours. The Sherpa eventually called per satellite phone two other Sherpas to come up and help the German client down. After that phone call, Spaniards continued their descent to C2. They saw the German climber again a few days later at BC, they didn't talk to him, but he looked alright. Team was back at BC on 26 Oct at 6 pm.
    
  No support staff above BC, they carried everything themselves.

  Team left BC on 30 Oct.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used. 


expid: AMAD17315
peakid: AMAD
year: 2017
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Matthias Koenig
sponsor: Swiss Ama Dablam Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla->Namche->BC
bcdate: 2017-10-22
smtdate: 2017-10-25
smttime: 0945
termdate: 2017-10-27
othersmts: Summited Dhaulagiri (DHA1-173-04)
campsites: BC(22/10,4600m),C1(24/10,6000m),Smt(25/10)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Koenig departed high camp at 6000m at 4:30 am, summmited at 9:45 am, stayed 15 minutes, then descended to base camp arriving at 6:30 pm.

  Used fixed ropes up to summit. Very cold wind, 30-50 km/h estimated.


expid: AMAD17316
peakid: AMAD
year: 2017
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Davy Aerts
sponsor: Belgian Ama Dablam Expedition 2017
approach: From Cholatse BC->Phortse->Ama Dablam BC
bcdate: 2017-10-28
smtdate: 2017-11-05
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2017-11-07
othersmts: Summited Cholatse (CHOL-173-01)
campsites: BC(28/10,4600m),C1(03/11,5700m),C2(04/11,6000m),Smt(05/11)
agency: Asian Trekking (Prestige Adventure pmt)
routememo:
  BC  28/10  4600m
  C1  03/11  5700m
  C2  04/11  6000m
  Smt 05/11  by both members, both Sherpas.

  Team climbed Cholatse before and was well acclimatized. They summitted between 11 and 12:30 pm. Started from C2 at 12:30 am. Stayed on top for maybe 45 minutes. It was very cold and windy. A lot of fresh snow (30-40cm). They were the only climbers to go for the summit that day. They walked down to C2 (arrival: 8:20 pm). It took a long time to descend, quite dangerous descent. Ropes above C3 were badly fixed. On 6 Nov down to BC, arriving at 2 pm.

  Aerts saw Rozov [a few days] before he died in base jump. Aerts saw him jumping from little lower than Yellow Tower, just below C2 on 4 Nov.

  Team left BC on 7 Nov.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

  Hired: 
    Tenzing Dorje, Phortse, 19/11/1970
    Tshering Thundu Sherpa, Khumjung, 04/10/1974


expid: AMAD17317
peakid: AMAD
year: 2017
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Lithuania
leaders: Saulius Damaulevicius
sponsor: Makalu Extreme International Ama Dablam Expedition 2017
countries: Latvia, Russia
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2017-10-11
smtdate: 2017-10-20
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2017-10-22
campsites: BC(11/10,4600m),C1(13/10,5800m),C2(19/10,6050m),Smt(20/10)
agency: Makalu Extreme Treks
routememo:
  BC  11/10  4600m
  C1  13/10  5800m
  C2  19/10  6050m
  Smt 20/10  by Damaulevicius, Pasang Sherpa, Natalija, Zdanovich at 9 am.
   
  Damaulevicius and Natalija climbed without Sherpa support; Zdanovich was together with Pasang Sherpa. They started from C2 at 12:30 am. They more or less stayed together during ascent, at least always close enough to see each other. Damaulevicius summitted at 9 am, the others followed a few minutes later. Stayed on the top for 30 minutes, beautiful weather, mild wind, just very cold before sunrise. Descended to C2, arriving at approx 4 pm. On 21 Oct everyone was back at BC (3 pm).

  Damaulevicius was on Makalu in spring 2017 (MAKA-171-03) and it is important for him to share that Gregory Attard as well as members of MAKA-171-02 only reached foresummit and not main summit.

  Team left BC on 22 Oct.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

  Records:
    According to HD: Damaulevicius the first Lithuanian to summit Ama Dablam 
    According to Damaulevicius: Aivaras Sajus holds USA AND Lithuanian passports and
      was the first Lithuanian to summit Ama Dablam in 2011 (AMAD-113-61).

  Members:
    Saulius Damulevicius
    Natalija Zenina
    Igor Zdanovich
    (all in Database; permit of Oxana Morneva of Makalu Extreme)

  Hired: 
    Pasang Sherpa, Makalu (12th Summit of Ama Dablam)


expid: AMAD17318
peakid: AMAD
year: 2017
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Greece
leaders: Alexios Passalidis
sponsor: Makalu Extreme International Ama Dablam Expedition 2017
countries: Germany
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2017-10-20
smtdate: 2017-10-25
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2017-11-01
campsites: BC(20/10),C1(23/10),C2A(24/10,6000n),C2B(28/10,6200m),Smt(25,29/10)
agency: Makalu Extreme Treks
routememo:
  BC  20/10  4500m
  C1  23/10  5700m
  C2  24/10  by Vogel at 6000m
  C2  28/10  by Buckwitz, Passalidis at 6200m (advanced C3)
  Smt 25/10  by Vogel, Lhakpa Tshering
  Smt 29/10  by Passalidis, Buckwitz, Tenzing Chotar Sherpa, Nima Nuru Sherpa.
  	
  Vogel with his guide Lakpa Sherpa started from C2 at 00:15 am. They reached the summit at 10:30 am, stayed on top for 15 minutes. Weather was perfect, blue sky. Descended to C2 (arrival at 8:30 pm). On 26 Oct back at BC. 

  Buckwitz, Passalidis, Tenzing Chotar Sherpa and Nima Nuru Sherpa started at 2 am on 29 Oct. Passalidis with Tenzing Chhotar Sherpa summitted at 10:30 am, Buckwitz with Nima Nuru Sherpa at 11:30 am. Passalidis and Tenzing Chotar waited on summit for Buckwitz for one hour, staying a total of 1.5 hours on the summit. Buckwitz and Nima Sherpa stayed on top for 10 minutes. All 4 descended together to C2 (arrival at 5 pm). On 30 Oct back to BC. 

  According to Oxana Morneva Thomas Vogel summitted on 24 Oct, others on 28 Oct.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

  Hired: 
    Nima Nuru Sherpa, Thami
    Tenzing Chotar Sherpa, Thami
    Lhakpa Tshering Sherpa, Thami


expid: AMAD17319
peakid: AMAD
year: 2017
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Oxana Morneva
sponsor: Makalu Extreme International Ama Dablam Expedition 2017
countries: Nepal
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2017-10-18
smtdate: 2017-10-30
termdate: 2017-11-03
campsites: BC(18/10,4600m),C1(20/10,5800m),C2(21/10,6100m),Smt(30/10)
agency: Makalu Extreme Treks
routememo:
  BC  18/10  4600m
  C1  20/10  5800m
  C2  21/10  6100m
  Smt 30/10  by Morneva and Lhakpa Nuru at noon, Chatur Tamang at 9 am
  Smt 01/10  by Vaynblat and Lhakpa Tenzing at 2:30 pm.

  Chatur Tamang started from BC at 1:30 pm on 29 Oct. He reached C2 at 7 pm. He rested until 11 pm and continued straight to the summit.

  Morneva and Lhakpa Nuru started from C2 at 7 pm on 29 Oct. The conditions were dry and it was difficult to climb. They summited at noon and descended to C2, where they arrived at 8 pm and stayed the night.

  Vaynblat and Lhakpa Tenzing left C2 31 Oct at 7 pm. They summited at 2:30 pm and descended to C2, where they stayed the night.

  Pashkov reached C1. He did not feel very motivated and abandoned the expedition.

  Tuzova reached around 6700m on 30 Oct; she was too slow and turned back.

  Voronina reached C1 on 24 Oct; she fell sick and abandoned the climb.

  Shibalov reached C3 at 6500m; he tried to reach the summit twice, but was too slow both times.

  Team left BC on 3 Nov.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C2 to summit to C2 by Morneva.
    Emergency oxygen at BC for Voronina.


expid: AMAD17320
peakid: AMAD
year: 2017
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Franc Pepevnik
sponsor: Slovenian Ama Dablam Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla->Gokyo->Cho La->Kalapattar->Ever BC->Lobuche East->Ama Dablam BC
bcdate: 2017-10-26
smtdate: 2017-11-02
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2017-11-04
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East
campsites: BC(26/10,4600m),C1(31/10,5700m),C2(01/11,6000m),Smt(02/11)
accidents: Pepevnik and Breznik frostbite
agency: Himalayan Waves (Snowy Horizon pmt)
routememo:
  BC  26/10  4600m
  C1  31/10  5700m
  C2  01/11  6000m 
  Smt 02/11  Tashi Sherpa, Pepevnik and Breznik at 6:30 am.
  	 
  Team climbed Lobuche East for acclimatization. Knez also climbed Lobuche and went to Ama Dablam BC, but not higher because he was suffering from asthma. He left BC on 27 Oct and was back in Kathmandu on 30 Oct.

  Tashi Sherpa, Breznik and Pepevnik started from C2 at 10 pm, summitted at 6:30 am on 2 Nov. Stayed on top for half an hour, it was very cold and both members got frostbitten. Then down to C1 (arrival at 4:15 pm). On 3 Nov down to BC.

  Team left BC on 4 Nov by helicopter to Ktmdu.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

  Breznik frostbite on small and ring fingers of left hand and on thumb of right hand, expected 100% recovery.

  Pepevnik frostbite at big toe of left foot. He has been to hospital in Ktmdu, 3rd-degree frostbite, probably no amputation. Will have another check when back in Slovenia.

  Hired: 
    Ngatashi (Tashi) Sherpa, maybe 38 years old, from Sankhusawabha, 
      now living in Darjeeling


expid: AMAD17321
peakid: AMAD
year: 2017
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Christian Gatniejewski
sponsor: German Ama Dablam Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Dingboche->Island Peak->Ama Dablam BC
bcdate: 2017-11-02
smtdate: 2017-11-05
termdate: 2017-11-07
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to overcrowding
agency: Adventure Geo Treks (Snowy Horizon pmt)
routememo:
  BC  02/11  4600m
  C1  04/11  5800m
  HPt 05/11  5900m by Gatniejewski.

  Reason for abandoning expedition was that the mountain was too crowded and Gatniejewski was worried about his safety and wanted to get away from the crowds. He descended to C1 to pack up his camp and then to BC.

  Raport reached 5000m on 4 Nov. He was not feeling well and had problems with breathing and a bad cough, so he decided to stay at BC for the rest of the expedition.

  Team left BC on 7  Nov.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


expid: AMAD17322
peakid: AMAD
year: 2017
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Kosovo
leaders: Arineta Mula
sponsor: Kosovo Ama Dablam Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2017-11-07
smtdate: 2017-11-11
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2017-11-14
campsites: BC(07/11,4700m),C1(09/11,5600m),C2(10/11,6100m),Smt(11/11)
agency: Happy Feet Mountaineers (Cho Oyu Trekking pmt)
routememo:
  BC  07/11  4700m
  C1  09/11  5600m
  C2  10/11  6100m
  Smt 11/11  by Mula and Nima Tenji at 10 am.

  Summit team left C2 at 11.30 pm on 10 Nov. They came about a big crevasse on the dablam, where they jumped over. Straightforward climb. They spent about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where they spent the night. On 12 Nov they were back at BC.

  Mula left BC on 14 Nov.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

  Sherpas:
    Nima Tenji (Nima Tenzing), Paiya, Jubing-7, 13/04/1980


expid: AMAD17323
peakid: AMAD
year: 2017
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Ecuador
leaders: Topo Mena
sponsor: Ecuadorian Ama Dablam Expedition 2017
approach: Kathmandu to Pangboche by helicopter->BC
bcdate: 2017-10-28
smtdate: 2017-11-02
termdate: 2017-11-03
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to stomach infection
campsites: BC(28/10,4600m),xxx(02/11,5900m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  BC  28/10  4600m at Ama Dablam BC Lodge
  HPt 02/11  5900m  just above C1 by Mena

  Mena was well acclimatized from Larkya Peak climb and wanted to climb Ama Dablam in a single push from BC without Sherpa support. He started at BC lodge at 11 pm on 1 Nov, reached high point at 5900m at 4 am. Then decided to go down because of stomach infection, maybe caused by bad food at BC lodge. Descended to BC lodge, arrival at approx 6 am. On 3 Nov he went from BC to Namche to see a doctor. Stayed in Namche until 6 Nov, then down to Lukla. On 7 Nov flight to KTM by airplane.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

  Mena was on shared permit of Cho Oyu Trekking, never saw the other members of permit (Ms. Mona Malika from Norway, Peter O'Connell from Ireland, Arineta Mula from Kosovo, Aung Khaing Myint from Myanmar, Pyae Phyo Aung from Myanmar, Zaw Zin Khaing from Myanmar).


expid: AMAD17325
peakid: AMAD
year: 2017
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Norway
leaders: Pal Roesrud
sponsor: Peaks of Nepal Ama Dablam Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla->Lobuche Peak->Ama Dablam BC
bcdate: 2017-10-29
smtdate: 2017-11-07
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2017-11-10
campsites: BC(29/10,4600m),ABC(03/11,5500m),C1(04/11,5600m),C2(05/11,6000m),C3(06/11,6300m),Smt(07/11)
agency: Peaks of Nepal
routememo:
  BC  29/10  4600m
  ABC 03/11  5500m
  C1  04/11  5600m
  C2  05/11  6000m
  C3  06/11  6300m
  Smt 07/11  Roesrud, Hauge, Eilertsen, Lier, Dorje Sonam Sherpa, Pasang Sherpa

  Summitters reached top at 7 am on 7 Nov. They started from C3 at 2-3 am. Stayed on top for 30 minutes, very nice weather, sunny, no wind, -20° Celsius. Then all down to C1, arrival at about 3:30 pm. Next day to BC. 

  Burchardt had a bad cough, spitting blood. She reached C2. 

  Forthun also bad cough and throat problem, only reached ABC. He flew from Namche to KTM by helicopter early. 

  Hillestadt turned around between C2 and C3 because a fixed rope snapped. Fortunately she was clipped to another safety rope, so she fell only 2-3m maybe. Got a soft landing on snow, she was very lucky, it could have ended worse. After that she didn't trust the ropes anymore and decided to abandon climb. She walked down with Ang Kami down to BC where she waited for the others.

  Remen only got as high as ABC, he had a bad cough too.

  Team left BC on 10 Nov.

  Members at end were flown out by heli from Namche. 
   
  Oxygen: taken for emergency to all camps, not used.

  Hired: 
    Pasang Sherpa, Makalu-Barun
    Pemba Sherba, Namche 
    Dorje Sonam Sherpa, Phortse
    Ang Kami Sherpa, Pangboche


expid: AMAD17326
peakid: AMAD
year: 2017
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Markus Weber
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Ama Dablam Expedition 2017
countries: Germany
approach: Lukla->Gokyo Ri->Lobuche East->Ama Dablam BC
bcdate: 2017-10-19
smtdate: 2017-10-23
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2017-10-25
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East
campsites: BC(19/10,4533m),C1(21/10,5800m),C2(22/10,6000m),Smt(23/10)
agency: Himalaya Vision (Snowy Horizon pmt)
routememo:
  BC  19/10  4533m
  C1  21/10  5800m
  C2  22/10  6000m
  HPt 23/10  6700m at 7-7:15 am by Markus Weber
  Smt 23/10  by Luciani, Kusang Tenzing Sherpa at 8 am; by Prem Magar at 8:15 am.
   
  Team started for summit from C2 at 1 am. Luciani and Kusang Tenzing Sherpa summitted at 8 am, Prem Magar summitted shortly after, at around 8:15 am. It was cold and windy, but good conditions overall. They stayed on top for 20 minutes. Descended to C1, which they reached at 4:30 pm. Stayed the night at C1, next day everyone was back at BC.

  Weber had problems with his left eye, eye turned blind because of dryness. He had to turn around at approximately 6700m between 7-7:15 am because of his eye and cold feet. He descended alone to C2, where he waited for 2 hours in his sleeping bag for the others. From C2 to C1 the entire team descended together.

  Team left BC on 25 Nov.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

  Accidents: Weber had to turn around 100m below summit because his left eye turned blind and he had cold feet. Prem Sherpa also developed problems with his eyes on descent (dryness). Both took eyedrops and are already fully recovered.

  Hired: 
    Kusang Tenzing Sherpa, Ghunsa, Lelep-9, Taplejung, 16/05/1986
    Prem Magar, Solukhumbu


expid: AMAD17328
peakid: AMAD
year: 2017
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Roberto Daz
sponsor: Italian Ama Dablam Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla->Gokyo->Cho La->Ama Dablam BC
bcdate: 2017-11-11
smtdate: 2017-11-16
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2017-11-18
campsites: BC(11/11,4600m),C1(12/11,5900m),C2(15/11,6100m),Smt(16/11)
agency: Ramdung Expedition (Snowy Horizon pmt)
routememo:
  Daz and Sambotti left C2 at 4 am, summited at 10:30 am, stayed 30 minutes, then descended to C2 at 5:30 pm. Good weather, no wind, not cold.


expid: AMAD17330
peakid: AMAD
year: 2017
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Romania
leaders: Radu Albu
sponsor: Satori Adventures Ama Dablam Expedition 2017
countries: Australia, China, Hungary, India, Ireland, Ukraine, USA
approach: Lukla->Kalapattar->Ama Dablam BC
bcdate: 2017-10-08
smtdate: 2017-10-19
termdate: 2017-10-22
campsites: BC(08/10,4500m),C1(14/10,5600m),C2(16/10,5900m),C3(18/10,6200m),Smt(20/10),Smt(19,21,31)
achievment: 1st Hungarian national to scale Ama Dablam
agency: Satori Adventures
routememo:
  BC  08/10  4500m
  C1  14/10  5600m
  C2  16/10  5900m
  C3  18/10  6200m
  Smt 20/10  Darabont and Nima Sherpa at 7:30 am, by Dawa Sherpa at about 7:15 am.

  Team set off from C3 at 4 am. Darabont and Nima reached the summit at 7:30 am. Dawa Sherpa was faster and summitted a few minutes before them. They stayed on the top for 10 minutes, then went down to C1 (12:30-1 pm). It was very cold, but it was sunny and they enjoyed great views. On 21 Oct they were back at BC.

  Darabont is the first Hungarian to scale Ama Dablam.

  Radu Albu and Rajat Bhattacharya were on the permit as well but they never went above BC. They were promised that Sherpas would fix ropes by 7 Oct, but it took them until 17 Oct. This was too late for Albu and Bhattacharya, who ran out of time and had to go home.

  Left BC on: 
    Rajat and Radu left BC on 10 Oct
    Nima and Eduard on 22 Oct
    Dawa Sherpa stayed at BC as he may have another climb.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

  Hired:
    Nima Sherpa
    Dawa Sherpa

  Other members on the Satori permit climbed and summited at different times.

accidents:
  Darabont got slight frostbite at middle finger of left hand on summit day, but is expected to recover 100%


expid: AMAD17331
peakid: AMAD
year: 2017
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: David Lama
sponsor: Austrian-German Ama Dablam Expedition 2017
countries: Germany
approach: Lukla->Namche->Phortse->Ama Dablam BC
bcdate: 2017-10-03
smtdate: 2017-10-15
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2017-10-17
campsites: BC(02/10,4600m),C1(05/10,5800m),C2(14/10,6000m),Smt(15/10)
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  Summit team departed C2 at 6 am and summited at 2 pm. Team spent one night on the summit as they were acclimatizing for Annapurna III. Descended to BC the next day.

  Good conditions. Climbed the upper without fixed ropes, because fixing team was still working. Helped them to fix around 200m rope up the Grey Tower.

  Jochen Schmoll only went to C1 (5800m) as planned.

  The team later cancelled their Annapurna III expedition.


expid: AMAD17333
peakid: AMAD
year: 2017
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Sabrina Filzmoser
sponsor: Austrian Ama Dablam Expedition 2017
bcdate: 2017-11-19
smtdate: 2017-11-23
smttime: 0915
termdate: 2017-11-24
campsites: BC(19/11,4500m),C1(21/11,5685m),C2(22/11,5900m),Smt(23/11)
agency: Himalayan Ski Trek
routememo:
  Filzmoser and Mingma Gyabu (aka Mingma David) Sherpa set out from C2 at 1 am, summited at 9;15 am, stayed 15 minutes, then descended to base camp. The weather was cold and windy.


expid: AMAD17334
peakid: AMAD
year: 2017
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Mark Graham
sponsor: American Ama Dablam Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2017-10-23
smtdate: 2017-10-31
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2017-11-01
campsites: BC(23/10,4600m),C1(25/10,5800m),C2(27/10,5980m),Smt(31/10)
agency: Himalayan Ascent (Himalayan Guides pmt)
routememo:
  Team set out from C2 at 3:30 am, summited at 1 pm, stayed 15 minutes, then descended to C2. 

  An earlier attempt [28 Oct?] was aborted due to bad weather.


expid: AMAD17337
peakid: AMAD
year: 2017
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Sergi Mingote
sponsor: Amics del Nepal a l'Ama Dablam 2017
countries: Germany
approach: Lukla->Namche->Chhukung->Pangboche->Ama Dablam BC
bcdate: 2017-11-01
smtdate: 2017-11-04
smttime: 0732
termdate: 2017-11-05
othersmts: Summited Island Peak
campsites: BC(01/11,4600m),C1(02/11,5400m),C2(03/11,5900m),Smt(04/11)
accidents: Jose Alvarez during the descent suffered frostbite and pulmonary edema.
agency: Himalayan Adventure (Happy Feet pmt)
routememo:
  Summit team set from C2 at 1 am and summited at 7:32 am.

  Sergi Mingote - 12 Nov 2017

  Fantastic meteorological conditions, without wind, many cold. Kipa And I went together with some Russians (I think) the first ones at the top. My promocions was fast, 7 hours 30 minutes from camp 2.

  I spent more than 50 minutes waiting for my companions: Jose Alvarez arrived 8:25 am and Jesus Benavides later (we crossed it down).

  Jose Alvarez was not well; and with height problems I had stay in camp 3. I stayed taking care of the program and the rescue. Jesus low to camp 2 in 5 hours. Jose suffered vomiting, and frostbite on the feet. The rescue helicopter descended us to the BC on day 5.


expid: AMAD17338
peakid: AMAD
year: 2017
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiroki Nakayama
sponsor: Japanese Ama Dablam Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Ama Dablam Summit Lodge
bcdate: 2017-10-09
smtdate: 2017-10-19
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2017-10-20
campsites: BC(09/10,4600m),C1(12/10,5700m),C2(18/02,5900m),Smt(19/10)
agency: Royal Orchid Treks (Snowy Horizon pmt)
routememo:
  Summit team departed C2 at 1 am, summited at 10:30 am, stayed 1 hour, then descended to C2 around 4 pm.

  The weather was perfect, no wind, no snowing.

  Fixed rope team just fixed the route day before he climbed.


expid: AMAD17339
peakid: AMAD
year: 2017
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Israel
leaders: Shlomo Gdaliahu
sponsor: Israeli Ama Dablam Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2017-10-16
smtdate: 2017-10-26
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2017-10-27
campsites: BC(16/10,4600m),C1(22/10,5600m),C2(24/10,5900m),Smt(26/10)
achievment: Eldest Israeli to summit
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  BC  16/10  4600m
  C1  22/10  5600m
  C2  24/10  5900m
  Smt 26/10  by Gdaliauh and Phurba Ongdi Sherpa.

  Gdaliauh and Phurba started their summit push from C2 on 25 October at 11 pm. They reached summit at 10:30 am on 26 October. They stayed on summit for about 30 minutes, then went down to C2 where they arrived at 5 pm. Spent night at C2. Next day 27 Oct descended to BC. There were 5-6 climbers ahead of Gdaliauh team from SummitClimb and he was the last one. The weather was perfect.

  Team left BC on 27 Oct.

  Fixed rope: Used already fixed in route.


expid: AMAD17340
peakid: AMAD
year: 2017
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Singapore
leaders: Anandan Bala
sponsor: Ever Quest Ama Dablam Expedition 2017
countries: China, Sri Lanka, UK
smtdate: 2017-11-18
campsites: BC(),C1(),C2(6100m),Smt(18/11)
agency: Ever Quest Expeditions
routememo:
  Simon Greaves (Facebook) - November 2, 2017 

  I am heartbroken to have report I was unable to summit last night. Approaching camp 2 at 20000 ft (where the summit push would start from to 22500 ft ), I was negotiating a final traverse over a 2000 ft sheer face and twisted my ankle. I got up at 11 pm, but after strapping my boots and crampons on it was clear my ankle was not going to stand up to the 16 hour day ... and 10 the next day back to BC.. a few tears later I bid farewell to Paul Harwood and wished him Gods speed. Thanks to the assistance of 2 Sherpas I am now safely in BC (we followed down a Korean climber whose friend fell to his death after their summit, which brings things into perspective). Thank you for all the support - despite the flu I felt strong and felt I could have made it .... never give up .... 


  Mingma Gyalje summited Ama Dablam with his sister on 18 Nov.


expid: AMAD17342
peakid: AMAD
year: 2017
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Pawel Kajzerek
sponsor: Polish Ama Dablam Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla->Kalapattar->Island Peak->Ama Dablam BC
bcdate: 2017-10-28
smtdate: 2017-11-04
smttime: 0920
termdate: 2017-11-06
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(28/10,4600m),C1(01/11,5700m),C2(03/11,6000m),Smt(04/11)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  BC  28/10  4600m
  C1  01/11  5700m
  C2  03/11  6000m
  Smt 04/11  by Kajzerek.
   
  Kajzerek started alone from C2 at 2 am. Reached the summit at 9:20 am. Stayed on top for maybe 15 minutes. Very good conditions, no wind, clear views, but very cold. Then descended to C2 (arrival: 1 pm). Spent the night at C2, next day to BC.

  Polak got to C1 at 2 Nov; on 3 Nov she went down to BC. Jasinowski got to C2 on 3 Nov; next day down to BC. Both didn't feel well enough to climb any higher, maybe couldn't deal with altitude. Both left BC at 5 Nov and went to Namche.
  	
  Kajerzek left BC on 6 Nov.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


expid: AMAD17348
peakid: AMAD
year: 2017
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Tshering Pande Bhote
sponsor: Top Himalaya Guides (THG) Ama Dablam Expedition 2017
countries: Australia, Germany, Japan, Norway, USA
bcdate: 2017-11-15
smtdate: 2017-11-21
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2017-11-24
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(15/11,4590m),C1(19/11,5958m),C2(20/11,5984m),Smt(21/11)
agency: Top Himalaya Guides
routememo:
  Expedition time-line:

  15 Nov - Pangboche to Basecamp (4589.98 meters per Google Earth)
  16 Nov - Rest day
  17 Nov - Rest day
  18 Nov - Rest day
  19 Nov - Basecamp to Camp 1 (5968 meters per Google Earth)
  20 Nov - Camp 1 to Camp 2 (5983.83 meters per Google Earth)
  21 Nov - Camp 2 to Summit to Camp 2
  22 Nov - Camp 2 to Basecamp
  24 Nov - Depart Basecamp


expid: AMAD17351
peakid: AMAD
year: 2017
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Myanmar
leaders: Pyae Phyo Aung
sponsor: Myanmar Htoo Foundation Ama Dablam Expedition 2017
bcdate: 2017-11-18
smtdate: 2017-11-21
smttime: 1005
termdate: 2017-11-23
campsites: BC(18/11),C1(19/11),C3(20/11),Smt(21/11)
routememo:
  From Htoo Group Media department:

  20 Nov 2017

  The mountaineering team had arrived at the Base-Camp of Mount Ama Dablam, at the date of November 18th, 2017. The Ama Dablam’s height and hardship are approximately same with the Khakaborazi, which is the highest glacier mountain of Myanmar.

  They had ascended the Camp-1 on November 19th, 2017 and tomorrow, they are to ascend and achieve the Camp-3. Moreover, it is informed that the Myanmar Mountaineering Team will not take rest at the Camp-3 but they will continue their expedition to successfully reach the peak of the mountain via Camp-3 to summit vice versa summit to Camp-2 at the date of November 21st, 2017. According to their schedule, on November 22nd, 2017, they are to descend Base Camp from Camp-2. On November 23rd, 2017, they are to get Pangboche Village, where they have started their expedition.

  Three Myanmar mountaineers from Myanmar Hiking and Mountaineering Federation, Ko Pyae Phyo Aung, Ko Aung Khaing Myint and Ko Zaw Zin Khaing, who will make tremendous efforts to conquer the Mount Khakaborazi in Myanmar, and are mainly sponsored by the Htoo Group of Companies and Htoo Foundation, left the Yangon International Airport for Nepal to make mountaineering practices at the Ama Dablam Mountain, 6812 m above sea level, in Nepal, at 7:45 pm, October 23rd, 2017.

  23 Nov 2017

  Three members of Myanmar Hiking and Mountaineering Association, Ko Pyae Phyo Aung, Ko Zaw Zin Khaing and Ko Aung Khaing Myint have started the journey on 10.05 hours in the morning and could set foot on the peak of Ama Dablam, which is 6812 meters high. After that, they have descended to Camp-2 by 7:00 hours in the evening.

  From Camp-2, three Myanmar climbers have descended to the base camp in Pangboche by 3:45 hours in the evening.


expid: AMAD17352
peakid: AMAD
year: 2017
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Romania
leaders: Justin Ionescu
sponsor: Romanian Ama Dablam Expedition 2017
countries: USA
approach: Lukla->Mera Peak->Lukla->Ama Dablam BC
bcdate: 2017-10-26
smtdate: 2017-10-27
termdate: 2017-10-31
termnote: Abandoned at 5950m due to Badescu's illness
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak
campsites: BC(26/10,4500m),C1(5700m),xxx(27/10,5950m)
agency: Himalayan Wanderer
routememo:
  Badescu fell sick on acclimatization climb of Mera Peak. She was suffering from fever. After Mera Peak climb they tried to cross the Amphu Laptsa into Khumbu, but she was too sick. They flew to Lukla by helicopter and trekked to Ama Dablam BC after some rest at Lukla. They arrived at BC on 26 Oct. On 27 Oct Badescu had a rest day at BC and Ionescu climbed up to just before C2 to check out the conditions higher up the mountain. He returned to BC the same day. On 28 Oct both members climbed up to C1 and stayed there for 2 nights. On 30 Oct they returned to BC because Badescu didn't recover from sickness. Ionescu was also not well, he didn't acclimatize well. On 31 Oct they left BC for Lukla.


expid: AMAD17354
peakid: AMAD
year: 2017
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Rene Nessman
sponsor: Austrian Ama Dablam Expedition
termnote: Abandoned due to lack of fixed ropes
campsites: BC(Oct),C1(5700m),xxx
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  Team abandoned climb at C1 since fixed-ropes not set in early season.

  Snowy Horizon provided BC services only.


expid: ANN417301
peakid: ANN4
year: 2017
route1: NW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Tom Boydston
sponsor: American Annapurna IV Expedition 2017
approach: Marshyangdi Valley
bcdate: 2017-10-27
smtdate: 2017-11-08
termdate: 2017-11-12
termnote: Abandoned at 5920m due to uncertainty about route to from C2 to C3 and extremely cold weather
othersmts: Summited Chulu West
campsites: BC(27/10,4700m),C1(04/11,5640m),C2(08/11,5920m),xxx
accidents: Boydston evacuated by helicopter on 8 Nov due to severe respiratory cough
agency: Sherpa High Ambitions
routememo:
  Tom Boydston - 17 Jan 2018

  Starting as a team of 6 from High Camp (17,850) Darryl Sargent, Lhakpa Sherpa and I (Tom Boydston) summited Chulu West (21,062 ft or 6420m) October 23, 2017 in total white-out conditions returning back to High Camp in near white-out conditions which persisted through the descent. Total time was approximately 14 hours - HC to HC.

  After our successful Chulu West summit, we moved from Chulu West base camp and set up our Annapurna IV base camp October 27-29, 2017 in a flat area commonly used for summit attempts of Annapurna IV and II. Our climbing plan and style was to establish 3 high camps up the NW buttress of Annapurna IV. Due to a severe respiratory cough on my part, I was only able to make it up to Camp 1, whereas Darryl Sargent, Lhakpa Sherpa and Ngima Tenzing Sherpa were able to carry and establish up to Camp 2 at approximately 19,400 ft. The team of 3 (Darryl, Lhakpa, and Ngima) were turned back by a combination of extreme cold temperatures, high wind, and snow as well as high uncertainty about the route above Camp 2 up to Camp 3. The route to Camp 3 has substantially changed, becoming more difficult, apparently due to the massive 2015 earthquake in Nepal, which exposed large (100m or more) glacial ice seracs guarding the possible routes to the dome of Camp 3.

  Arriving at BC we had 2-6 inches of snow. Over the next 2 weeks, we experienced generally clear weather moderate winds, but falling temperatures. The route to C1 was notably devoid of snow requiring 3rd to 5th class (YDS) rock climbing. The route to C2 was hard snow over glacial ice, to bare ice.

  Abandoned expedition due to extreme cold, snow and wind, and uncertainty about route to from C2 to C3 due to new large ice seracs above C2 due to 2015 earthquake.

  Fixed rope: approximately 1000m various sections up to C2.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


expid: BARU17301
peakid: BARU
year: 2017
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Dan Fuller
sponsor: SummitClimb Baruntse Expedition 201
countries: Australia, Austria, China, Finland, Germany, Ireland, New Zealand, Slovenia, Spain
approach: Lukla->Zetra La->Mera La->Baruntse BC
smtdate: 2017-11-03
campsites: BC,C1,C2,Smt(03,17/11)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  SummitClimb team was divided into 2 groups:

  Group 1: Fuller, Dobson, Greenwood, Hamilton, Kisser, O'Leary, Rannikko, 
           Schmacker, Sue, D. Walch, I. Walch, Wang

  Group 2: Gallego, Mlinar, Sjoblom


expid: BARU17302
peakid: BARU
year: 2017
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Samantha Noble
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Baruntse Expedition 2017
countries: Australia, Sweden, USA
approach: Lukla->Pojang->Panch Pokhari->Kote->Khare->BC
bcdate: 2017-10-30
smtdate: 2017-11-03
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2017-11-07
othersmts: Mera Peak and Island Peak
campsites: BC(30/11,5400m),C1(01/11,6000m),C2(02/11,6300m),Smt(03/11)
agency: Makalu Adventure
routememo:
  BC  30/10  5400m
  C1  01/11  6000m
  C2  02/11  6300m
  Smt 03/11  by McDonald, Phurba Ongchu Sherpa, Sange Sherpa at 11 am.

  Hateley and Pritt flew in to BC from Chhukung on 2 Nov. They climbed Island Peak before for acclimatization. The others walked in and climbed Mera Peak before.

  McDonald and Lewis wanted an early summit push. They ascended to C2 on 2 Nov. Lewis stayed at C2. It was too cold him, he was handicapped by previous cold injury damage at his toes.

  McDonald, Phurba and Sange started from C2 on 3 Nov at 1 am. They summitted at 11 am. There was a lot of snow, thigh-deep, about 30-40cm of new snow at C2. Phurba had fixed ropes up to the summit together with the Summitclimb Sherpas the day before. They summitted in clouds, no visibility and had to descend through snowfall. They arrived at C2 at 5 pm. McDonald was extremely exhausted. On 4 Nov they went down to BC.

  Dave Pritt and Nicholas Hateley slept at C1 for a night, then went down again. They had heard conditions were very bad on the mountain and didn't want to go any higher.

  Niall Connolly reached C1 on 2 Nov; he had a chest infection and had to abandon climb.

  It was cold every day, most days it clouded over during the expedition. 

  Persson reached her high point at C1 on 2 Nov. On 3 Nov she and Connolly were brought down to BC by Noble. Persson felt tired and exhausted, weather forecast was bad, prohibiting a summit attempt. On the way out between Baruntse BC and Amphu Laptsa Pass Persson's condition worsened. She had been coughing a lot and had been slow. She realized she couldn't do the pass in her condition and decided to have a helicopter evacuation the next day. During night at Amphu Laptsa BC she was given oxygen. On 8 Nov she and Wangda Sherpa were evacuated from Amphu Laptsa BC to Ktm via Lukla. She was hospitalized in Ktm, and diagnosed with AMS by doctor. She believes she was suffering from a chest infection rather than AMS. She's slowly getting better now.

  Noble, Connolly and Lewis crossed the Amphu Laptsa on the way out and flew to Ktm from Lukla. 

  Oxygen:  
    Taken for emergency to C1, not used on mountain. 
    Anna Persson used some oxygen at Amphu Laptsa BC.

  Fixed rope:
    Between BC and C1 in couloirs and from C2 to summit, in cooperation with
    Summitclimb team.

  Sherpas: 
    Wangda Sherpa, Okhaldhunga, 1/12/1989  
      (BC manager, went to Crampon Point halfway between BC and C1)
    Phurba Ongchu Sherpa (S) (lead Sherpa)  
    Sange Sherpa (S)
    Phurtemba (Phursemba) Sherpa (C2)
    Norbu Sherpa (C2)


expid: BARU17303
peakid: BARU
year: 2017
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Simon Yates
sponsor: World Expeditions Baruntse Expedition 2017
countries: Australia
approach: Lukla->Mera La->Baruntse BC
bcdate: 2017-10-15
smtdate: 2017-10-24
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2017-10-26
campsites: BC(15/10,5400m),C1(17/10,6100m),C2(22/10,6400m),Smt(24/10)
accidents: Conheady frostbite at fingers and was evacuated.
agency: Highland Excursions
routememo:
  Approach: Flight to Lukla; Trekking via Hinku Valley over Mera La into Hunku Valley; BC was located at upper part of Hunku BC by the glacier lake.

  BC  15/10  5400m
  C1  17/10  6100m (just across West Col) 
  C2  22/10  6400m
  Smt 24/10  Conheady, Iglesias, Jankowski, Yates, Lhakpa Nuru, Lhakpa Tamang 
             at 1 pm.

  Megan Ward and Ian Lord weren't feeling well from the very beginning of expedition; they suffered from respiratory problems/chest infection. Lord never made it above BC; Ward's highest point was C1 on 17 Oct.

  On summit day, the rest of the team started from C2 at 4:40 am. Finden and her Sherpa Som turned around at 6900m around 12 pm because Finden didn't have enough power and stamina to go farther. Both descended back to C2.

  The others reached the summit at 1 pm, stayed on the top for 10 minutes, and went down to C2 (5 pm). It was cold and very windy, but generally good, clear weather, snow was in perfect condition. Conheady got frostbite at middle and ring finger of his right hand during the descent. He was evacuated from C1 to Ktm by helicopter on 25 Oct. He is okay now, fingers are quite blistered, but no lasting damage expected.

  Others were back at BC at 2 pm on 25 Oct. They trekked out to Lukla via the Amphu Laptsa Pass.

  Oxygen:: Taken to C2 for medical purpose, not used

  Fixed rope: From 6500m to summit.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa, Phakding, 21/08/1981
    Lhakpa Tamang, Lura, Salleri-9, 15/04/1977
    Som Tamang


expid: BARU17304
peakid: BARU
year: 2017
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Paola Favero
sponsor: Italian Baruntse Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla->Lobuche->Amphu Laptsa->BC
bcdate: 2017-11-02
smtdate: 2017-11-06
termdate: 2017-11-07
termnote: Abandoned at 7080m due to bad snow conditions, snowdrifts and dangerous terrain
campsites: BC(02/11,5400m),C1(04/11,6100m),C2(05/11,6400m),xxx(06/11,7080m)
agency: Himalaya Hikes
routememo:
  BC  02/11  5400m
  C2  04/11  6100m
  C2  05/11  6400m
  HPt 06/11  7080m  by Favero and Kalden Phura Sherpa.

  Favero and Kalden Phura started for summit from C2 at 2:15 am. They turned around at 9:30 am; they were fast, but last part to summit was very dangerous to negotiate in the bad snow conditions. It had been hard climbing up the slope to 7000m through a lot of snow, no tracks; they had to break trail and were the only ones going for the summit. Old tracks were not there anymore, fixed ropes were buried by snow. 

  They descended to BC the same day, arriving at 5 pm.  It was very cold, -28° Celsius near summit, -20° Celsius at C2.

  Favero initially wanted to go for the summit from C1 earlier when conditions were better, but her Sherpa objected as he thought it would be too long and too hard from C1. So they had to establish C2 first and when they were ready for summit push, conditions got worse. A lot of snowdrifting.

  Moretto didn't feel well, couldn't handle altitude and never got higher than BC. He went to Tagnag and waited for Favero.

  Team left BC on 7 Nov trekking via Mera La to Lukla.

  Sherpa:
    Kalden Phura Sherpa


expid: BARU17306
peakid: BARU
year: 2017
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Johannes Van Daalen
sponsor: Dutch Baruntse Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla->Mera La->Baruntse BC
bcdate: 2017-10-13
smtdate: 2017-10-27
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2017-10-30
campsites: BC(17/10,5400m),C1(21/10,6100m),C2(25/10,6450m),Smt(27/10)
agency: Annapurna Foothills
routememo:
  Van Daalen and Gulju Sherpa left C2 at 4:15 am, summited at 1:30 pm, stayed 10 minutes, then descended to C2 arriving at 5:30 pm. Weather was good, only in time wind became stronger especially on the descent.


expid: BHRI17301
peakid: BHRI
year: 2017
route1: NW side
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Marc Swan
sponsor: Audan Bhrikuti Expedition 2017
countries: UK
approach: Jomsom->Muktinath->Narsang Khola->Bhrikuti BC->khumjungar BC
bcdate: 2017-10-31
smtdate: 2017-11-01
termdate: 2017-11-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6269m due to coldness
campsites: BC(31/10,5873),xxx(01/11,6269m)
agency: TAGnepal Trekking
routememo:
  Approach: Flight to Johmson, trek to Muktinath, Green Camp, Narsing Khola, Kog, Kampa's Headquarter Camp, Bhrikuti BC, Khumjumgar BC.

  HPt:  01/11  6269m by Swan, Fornerod, Temba Bhote.

  Climb abandoned on 1 Nov due to coldness.

  They had an intense approach, very difficult approach march. Between Khumjumgar BC and Dhey La Camp they set up a camp at 5873m on 31 Oct. The plan was next day to have some people to climb Bhrikuti while porters and other members would carry loads and go over unnamed pass at 6300m west of Bhrikuti. They eventually wanted to cross the Saribung Pass and walk into Nar Phu.

  Summit group (Swan, Fornerod, Temba Bhote) left camp at 5:30 am on 01 Nov. Long walk on glacier with big crevasses. They took a wrong way, ending up at max altitude at 6269m at pass NW of Bhrikuti. It was 8:30 am. They would have had time to go to summit, but it was extremely cold. They estimated it to be -40 to -50° Celsius. They decided not to climb it. Going down they had to abseil, very steep ice slope, much more difficult than going up.

  The others at camp had started to go up already, when Swan radioed them and told them that they would go back the way they came. It would have been too dangerous for the whole team to cross the pass and continue to Saribung Pass in the cold conditions. The whole team went down to a place a little further down than Khumjumgar BC near bottom of glacier at 5399m. They arrived at camp at 3:20 pm that day.

  Porters were not well enough equipped for such an extreme mountain trip in those conditions according to Swan. Lots of crevasses, a long way, very cold. A lighter team would have been needed to go over pass and traverse into Nar Phu.

  Next day on 2 Nov team went down to Kampa's HQ camp. Then to Tangge. On 4 Nov to Tangge Pa. On 5 Nov from Pa to Chuksang. From there Jeep to Jomson, and flight to Pokhara.


expid: BHRS17301
peakid: BHRS
year: 2017
route1: SW Face
nation: Portugal
leaders: Pedro Miguel Guedes Vieira
sponsor: Atalante Portuguese Bhrikuti Shail Expedition 2017
approach: Besisahar->Koto->Meta->Phu
bcdate: 2017-09-30
smtdate: 2017-10-01
termdate: 2017-10-07
termnote: Abandoned at 5250m due to technical difficulties and objective dangers
othersmts: Attempted Saribung
campsites: BC(30/09,5000m),C1(01/10,5250m),xxx
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking (Atalante)
routememo:
  BC  30/09  5000m
  C1  01/10  5250m (no sleeping)
  HPt 01/10  5250m by Pedro, Luis and Barbara (on Bhrikuti Shail)

  HPt 06/10  5250m by Pedro and Luis (on Saribung))

  Climb abandoned on (BHRI): 01/10 due to technical difficulties and objective 
                                   dangers
  Climb abandoned on (SARI): 06/10 due to deep snow conditions

  Left BC (SARI) on 7th October 
   
  Routes: SW face on BHRI, NNE Face on SARI 

  Oxygen: Not taken not used

  30/09: at BC of Bhrikuti, full of garbages! Stayed below it.

  01/10: all 3 went to 5250 (HPt). Here they could see below the summit a 100m icy slope with a little serac above it. Many times watched some ice falling in the middle of the channel. Clients not so technical, so decided to change for Saribung on that day. Back to BC on that day.

  02/10: all 3 to 5400m on Saribung, in the midde of the glacier. No sleeping there, just deposit (4 hours up, 2 hours down).
    
  03/10: Pedro and Luis came with Barbara to Phu. She didn't want to climb anymore (mother with 4 children).

  04/10: back to BC for Pedro and Luis.

  05/10: with Luis up to camp at 5640m; snowed at the end of the afternoon until 10 pm.

  06/10: that night to Saribung pass (6042m), with fresh snow up to the knees. Climbed up to 6250m and stopped there. Not far from summit, about a 100m down to it. Started at 3 am up to Saribung pass, 3:30 walk up; at c6:30 am at Saribung pass, drank water during a 30 min pause; left pass at 7 am, then stopped at about 11:22 am after doing the tracks in fresh snow.

  Route of Saribung: NNE Face/Ridge, trying for the N side to see if not more ice: all same, lots of snow (also crevasses in the middle). Same day, Luis very tired, came back to 5640m place.

  07/10: came to BC, dismantled it. Had porters there => to Phu altogether. 

  On Saribung:
    Pedro Miguel Guedes Vieira (6250m)
    Luis Antonio Ribeiro Almeida (6250m)
    Barbara Borges (5400m)


expid: BURK17301
peakid: BURK
year: 2017
route1: S Face-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: William Burke
sponsor: Burke Khang First Ascent Expedition Autumn 2017
ascent1: 1st
countries: France, Ireland
approach: By heli from Dhole (Hanna) and Gokyo
bcdate: 2017-09-27
smtdate: 2017-10-05
smttime: 1205
termdate: 2017-10-07
campsites: BC(27/09,5300m),C1(01/10,6200m),C2(04/10,6600m),Smt(05/10)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  27/09  5300m
  C1  01/10  6200m  (29/09 1st time, but no sleeping)
  C2  04/10  6600m
  Smt 05/10  by Hanna, Naga Dorje, Sonam Samden, Pemba Tshering at 12:05 pm.

  From base camp at 5300m, the team crossed the glacier without a rope as it was mainly moraine. Once on the base of the mountain, they scrambled up a small couloir. On the top of the couloir they established crampon point at about 5700m. From there they went up the snow face to gain the ridge, where they established C1 at 6200m. From C1 to C2 they climbed up the SE Ridge. The ridge was about 50 degrees. At 6200m they came across a few crevasses, which they could negotiate via snow bridges. 

  At about 6400m, the Sherpas did not want to carry on due to the crevasses, but Hanna pushed on. The Sherpas put him on belay and he fixed rope and took them across. They established C2 at 6600m right next to a big crevasse on the flat.

  On summit day, the summit team left C2 at 6 am. They had to cross the big crevasse and climbed the headwall with the Sherpas fixing the ropes. The headwall was about 70 degrees. The snow on the headwall was sugary and they had to break trails. Snow was up to their knees. Hanna left some ashes of his dog on the summit and they drank a bottle of Moet Champagne. After they spent about half an hour on the summit, they descended to BC, where they arrived at about 6:10 pm.

  Kershner reached C2 on 4 Oct. He was suffering from altitude sickeness and decided not to come on the summit push. He stayed at C2 and waited for the summit team to come back.

  Burke reached 6300m on 5 Oct. He was on his way to C2 to join the rest of the team for a summit attempt. However, as the weather forecast was bad for the following days, Hanna decided to push for the summit. When Burke found out that Hanna and the Sherpas reached the summit, it was clear to him that he would not carry on. It was important to him that someone of the team reached the summit.

  Team left BC by heli to Lukla on 7 Oct, and on to Ktm the same day.

  Fixed rope:
    2500m starting from 5400m

  Sherpas:
    Nanda Dorje (Naga Dorje), Khumjung, 30/12/1966
    Samden (Sonam) Bhote, Hungung, 25/07/1979
    Pemba Tshering (Maila), Khumjung, 18/04/1979


expid: CHAG11101
peakid: CHAG
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge (up); SE Ridge (down)
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Marko Prezelj
sponsor: Slovenian Makalu Expedition
ascent1: 2nd?
countries: USA
bcdate: 2011-04-23
smtdate: 2011-05-07
termdate: 2011-05-25
othersmts: Attempted Makalu (MAKA-111-07)
campsites: BC(23/04,4850m),Biv1(05/05),Biv(06/05),Smt(07/05)
agency: Wilderness Experience
primid: MAKA11107
routememo:
  BC  at Hillary BC area near Tangmar
  ABC at normal BC site
  High point at NW Ridge.

  BC was pitched on 23 April at 4850m near Tangmar in the Hillary BC area at a grassy spot pleasant for resting. Two days later, they occupied teh normal BC site at 5700m. Then they immediately went up the normal NW Ridge route to acclimatize before going to climb their chosen line on the West Face. On the 26th they moved up to 6300m on the Chago Glacier and returned to BC the same day. On the 30th they went up to 5795m and on 1 May to 6682m and back to BC that day.

  Now they divided into two groups. On 5 May House and Prezelj went onto the Chago ridge, which borders the west side of Chago Glacier and in three days with two bivouacs traversed the ridge from its southern end to point 6350m on the ridge (by the Schneider Khumbu map) and down to the tent they had left at ABC (5700m).

  The other group, Blagus, Lindic and Lorencic, went up onto the Chago ridge and bivouacked there at about 6000m. The next day they took the shortcut over to the normal route at 6700m. On the 7th they moved to the Makalu La at 7400m, then down to 6700m. On the 8th they descended to 5650m and BC.


expid: CHEK17301
peakid: CHEK
year: 2017
route1: W Face to Pt 6121m
route2: SE Face to Pt 6121m
nation: Spain
leaders: Miguel Zabalza
sponsor: Spanish Chekigo West Expedition 2017
approach: Jeep to Gurkagola, 4 days trekking to Na
bcdate: 2017-10-25
smtdate: 2017-10-27
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2017-11-10
termnote: Summited Chekigo West Summit (6121m)
othersmts: Summited Yalung Ri by all members
campsites: BC(25/10,4500m),ABC(26/10,5100m),W-Smt(27/10,07/11,6121m)
agency: Dream Carrier Treks
routememo:
  BC  25/10  4500m (between Beding and Chekigo)
  ABC 26/10  5100m (at the foot of West Face)
  Smt 27/10  by Pablo Ruiz, Jesus Ibarz, Omar Juan via W Face at 4 pm (1st ascent)
  Smt 07/11  by Zabalza, Ibarz via SE Face at 1 pm (2nd ascent).

  Spanish talked about West Summit of Chekigo at 6121m (according to Finn Map). Pt 6121 not crossed by 1st ascent team in 2005 who climbed Chekigo via West Face as well (CHEK-051-01).

  Spaniards did two ascents to Pt 6121, west of Chekigo, one via West Face and one via SE Face. All in alpine style. Plan had always been that subpeak, they never attempted main summit of Chekigo.

  West Face team consisted of Ruiz, Ibarz and Juan. They started from their camp at the foot of the face at 2 am and got to the top of Pt 6121 at 4 pm. Entire face is 900m. Some very steep climbing (80°), some mixed climbing MD+ (Spanish scale). Crux sections at mixed terrain at middle of wall and near the summit. Very good conditions, ice in very good shape, it wasn't too cold. They stayed on the top for maybe 15 minutes. Descent via same route, rappelled down the entire face. Back at ABC at 10 pm. 

  Zabalza and his wife Sonia Casas tried to climb SE Face from Na village on 4 Nov, but Casas had problems with altitude and only reached 5500m. Both descended together to Na.

  On 7 Nov Zabalza and Ibarz tried SE Face again. They had one camp after Na at 5150m at base of SE Face and slept there on 6 Nov. They left camp at 4 am, reached the summit at 1 pm and were back at camp at 5:30 pm. Conditions were good, not perfect. The summit was all in clouds, they had no visibility from the top. Climbing maybe V at the rocks, some parts as steep as 70-80°. SE Face not as difficult as West Face. Descent via same route as ascent, they rappelled a total of 15 pitches.  

  Madoz didn't climb because of personal problems.
   
  Valle and Larranaga couldn't deal with altitude (they only climbed Yalung Ri).

  Team left BC on 10 Nov.

  Other peaks: Yalung Ri (5600m) by all members


expid: CHND13301
peakid: CHND
year: 2013
route1: W Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Guy Wilson
sponsor: British Far West Nepal 2013
approach: See route notes
bcdate: 2013-11-03
smtdate: 2013-11-07
termdate: 2013-11-11
termnote: Abandoned at 5950m due to vertical rock wall
othersmts: Climbed unnamed peak 6024m
campsites: BC(03/11,4900m),C1(06/11,5400m),xxx(07/11,5950m)
agency: Lasho Adventure
routememo:
  Approach: Nepalgunj->Simikot->Dojang->Thana Singu->Nim Khola->two open camps along Nim Khola.

  From BC to high camp, easy glacier walk all the way up. From high camp to the high point difficult due to loose rocks. The high point ended up at the base of a 90-degree rock wall.


expid: CHOL17301
peakid: CHOL
year: 2017
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Davy Aerts
sponsor: Belgian Cholatse Expedition 2017
approach: Lukla->Renjo La->Cholatse BC
bcdate: 2017-10-11
smtdate: 2017-10-22
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2017-10-25
othersmts: Summited Ama Dablam (AMAD-173-16)
campsites: BC(11/10,4700m),C1(16/10,5550m),Smt(22/10)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  11/10  4700m
  C1  16/10  5550m
  Smt 22/10  by both members, both Sherpas.

  Team started from C1 at 1:30 am, got to the summit at 9 am. Stayed on top for 1 hour, very good weather, no wind, sunny. Descend to C1, arriving at 1 pm. Later to BC (arrival: 5:15 pm).

  Steep ice, 60-85°. Very exposed summit ridge, cornices, sugar snow conditions.

  Team left BC on 25 Oct to Ama Dablam.

  Fixed rope: Fixed ropes together with Australian team (from C1 to summit).

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used. 

  Sherpas: 
    Tenzing Dorje, Phortse, 19/11/1970
    Tshering Thundu, Khumjung, 04/10/1974


expid: CHOY09120
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Michel Viso
sponsor: French-Swiss Cho Oyu Expedition 2009
countries: Switzerland
approach: Lhasa->BC by Jeep
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to bad conditions
campsites: BC,ABC,C1,C2(7200m),xxx
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  Very bad conditions on the mountain. There was not enough snow and the route was too icy. No fixed rope installed, all in all very dangerous. Samuel Vuillemez tried alone with 2 Sherpas and reached the highpoint of expedition at 7200m. They turned around because of dangerous conditions. Viso and Marc turned around earlier at 7000m. According to Marc, nobody was able to summit that season. Viso and Marc were with Pemba Sherpa and another climbing Sherpa. They spent more or less 4 weeks at the mountain, 3 weeks above BC.


expid: CHOY17301
peakid: CHOY
year: 2017
route1: NW side
nation: China
leaders: Wangchen Sonam
sponsor: Holy Mountain Adventure Cho Oyu Expedition 2017
smtdate: 2017-09-30
smttime: 0633
termdate: 2017-10-03
campsites: BC,ABC,C1,C2,C3,Smt(30/09)
agency: Holy Mountain Adventure
routememo:
  From Holy Mountain Adventure:

  On the morning of September 30, all 77 people in the Cho Oyu Climbers organized by the Tibetan Holy Mountain Adventure Company in the autumn of 2017 all went to the top safely. Including 29 climbers from all over the country and 29 guides, 9 rope-fixing team members, 10 spare guides. At present, the climbers are on their way to Xigaze and are expected to arrive on October 3. 


  From Chinese media:

  1 October 2017 8:48 am CST (6:33 am NST) early in the morning, North climbers successfully summited Cho Oyu.

  The ascent of the North were 14 members of the expedition (from Beijing University Eagle Club (English name: Mountaineering Association of Peking University); they are:

  Eagle Club: 
    Qian Jun-Wei
    Zhao Wan-Rong
    Zhuang Fang-Dong
    Li Jin-Xue
    Guo Jia-Ming
    Tao Bing-Xue
    Xia Fan
    Wei Wei

  Alumni team:
    Cao Jun
    Fang Xiang
    Wang Hui
    Li Wei
    Yang Dong-Jie

  Staff team:
    Zhao Dong-Yan


expid: CHUW17301
peakid: CHUW
year: 2017
route1: W Ridge (to 5800m)
route2: N Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Manuel Moeller
sponsor: German Chulu West W Ridge Expedition 2017
approach: Trek via Ledar
bcdate: 2017-10-14
smtdate: 2017-10-21
smttime: 1210
termdate: 2017-10-23
campsites: BC(14/10,4800m),Smt(21/10)
agency: Dreamers Destination Treks/Imagine Nepal
routememo:
  BC  14/10  4800m (next to moraine)
  Smt 21/10  by all members and Sherpas and 12:10 pm.

  After having attempted the West Ridge (see below), the team decided to do the normal route on the N ridge. On 21 Oct at 3:32 am they started from BC. They moved on the rope together. The gradient was about 30 to 35 degrees. Conditions were good at the beginning, but farther up there was a hard cover. It was windy, but clear. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to BC, where they arrived at 5:10 pm.

  West Ridge attempt:

  HPt  19/10  5800m  by Guenzel, Schuetz, Dawa Gyalje and Pasang Gomba at 1:20 pm.

  Team attempted the West Ridge to open a new route. They climbed across the moraine towards the west until their reached a rocky tower to gain the ridge, which was covered in firn snow, where they roped up. They negotiated a steep flank of around 60 degrees, which was followed by another sharp ridge. The ridge ended up in a broader slope, which was covered in a few crevasses and was undulating and not steeper than about 45 degrees. Snow was about shin-deep and some of the crevasses they had to circumvent towards the east.

  When they reached the high point they realised that it would too cumbersome to carry on as the ridge was only about 2 fingers wide. They would not have had enough time and the capacities not continue.

  Moeller reached to about 5700m, but decided not to continue with the others as he thought it was too risky for him. 

  On their way down they picked up Moeller and descended to BC, where they arrived at 5:45 pm. 

  Team left BC on 23 Oct; arrived Kathmandu 25 Oct by vehicle from Manang.

  Fixed rope:	60m on the West Ridge.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Gyalje (Mingma of Dreamers Destination's brother)
    Pasang Gomba


expid: DANS17301
peakid: DANS
year: 2017
route1: SW Face
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
sponsor: Paulo Grobel Danphe Shail Expedition 2017
ascent1: 1st
approach: Flight to Juphal, trek to Phoksundo->Bhijer->Ku->BC
bcdate: 2017-10-03
smtdate: 2017-10-05
termdate: 2017-10-07
campsites: BC(03/10,5040m),ABC(04/10,5750m),Smt(05/10)
agency: Yeti Adventure
routememo:
  Paulo Grobel - American Alpine Journal (online)

  Despite the long march, it was a privilege to visit the last village before the mountain, Ku. From there to our base camp at 5040m, which we reached on October 3, it was a great wilderness experience.

  We established advanced base at 5750m on the 4th and then climbed to the summit and back to base the following day. Climbing in five separate pairs, and reaching the top, were Laurence De Fleurian and Dhan Magar, Bernard Vallet and Etienne De Fleurian, Jean-François Males and Etienne Principaud, Anil Rai and Deepen Bothe, and Sonia Baillif and Paulo Grobel.


expid: DHA117301
peakid: DHA1
year: 2017
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Carlos Soria
sponsor: Carlos Soria 2017 Dhaulagiri Expedition
approach: Marpha->Yak Kharka
bcdate: 2017-08-31
smtdate: 2017-09-15
termdate: 2017-09-29
termnote: Abandoned at 8050m due to route-finding difficulties
campsites: BC(31/08,4600m),C1(04/09,5800m),C2(13/09,6660m),C3(14/09,7200m),xxx(15/09,8050m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  31/08  4600m
  C1  04/09  5800m
  C2  13/09  6660m
  C3  14/09  7200m
  HPt 15/09  8050m Soria, Lopez, Carcavilla, Ming Temba, Pasang Nurbu, Dawa Temba,
             Temba Bhote (Hatiya), Ngima Dorchi.

  High point team started from C3 at 10 pm on 14 Sept. At first they took the wrong coloir to about 7900m. The Sherpas radioed down to the kitchen and contacted Chang Dawa of Seven Summit and noticed that they were in the wrong coloir. They decided to traverse farther to the right looking for the right coloir. However, they were not sure where the right coloir was and decided to descend at about midday.  

  They descended to C3 where they arrived at 7 pm. On 16 Sept the members descended to C1 to stay the night as they did not want to cross the Eiger zone late in the afternoon. The Sherpas continued to BC.

  On 17 Sept everyone at BC.

  They stayed at BC for one week. The weather was bad and on 26 Sept they tried again to ascend, but only reached C1. When they reached there, their tents were destroyed. They recovered the material and descended to BC. The conditions were too dangerous. Pasang Nurbu and Ngima Dorchi stayed the night at C1 and ascended to C3 the following day to fetch oxygen regulators.

  Cacavilla left the expedition on 25 Sept. Rest left BC 29 Sept in helicopter to Kathmandu.

  Fixed rope:	
    400m in the Eiger zone
    Bbetween C1 and C2 200m, C2 to C3 600m, C3 to High Point 500m

  Sherpas:
    Ming Temba, Makalu-9, Makalu-Barun, 28/04/1988
    Temba Bhote, Pawakhola-7, Makalu-Barun, 19/03/1982
    Dawa Temba, Makalu-5, 17/09/1984


expid: DHA117302
peakid: DHA1
year: 2017
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Bulgaria
leaders: Boyan Petrov
sponsor: Bulgarian Dhaulagiri Expedition 2017
approach: Pokhara->Marpha->French Pass->BC
bcdate: 2017-08-31
smtdate: 2017-09-29
smttime: 1310
termdate: 2017-10-01
campsites: BC(31/08,4672m),C1(01/09,5700m),C2(02/09,6666m),C3(14/09,7260m),Smt(29/09)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  31/08  4672m
  C1  01/09  5700m
  C2  02/09  6666m
  C3  14/09  7260m
  Smt 29/09  by Boyan Petrov.

  Summit day: Started at 1:45 am from C3, made all tracks alone from 7500m to the summit (climb rate: 11:30 for 900m => 78mh).

  From exit on the summit ridge to the summit is 300m long, 10 minutes easy walk. 
  Summited at 1:10 pm. Put a snow bar on top with bamboo stick. Kruglov later did picture with it. Returned on same day to at C3 at 6:30 pm. Petrov left BC on 1 Oct.

  Petrov used the exit couloir further right/west of the usual one, the latter seemingly to be in better conditions in spring (without cornices) according to him. 
  Oxygen: Not taken not used

  Summit day started with: 
    Carlalberto Cimenti (Italy), who stopped at c7800m
    Davide Gerlero (Italy), who stopped at c7600m
    Matthias Koenig (Switzerland), who stopped at c7400-7500m

  Yuri Kruglov summited the day after at 9 am (started at 9 pm on 1 Oct) with 2 Sherpas (Himalayan Guides). 

  On 15 Sept with Carlos Soria, Boyan reached the eastern ridge at a point down to the foresumit (c8055m), as Pemba Sherpa first told him to go there. As it was in the fog with dubious snow conditions on the ridge, he choose not to push farther.  

  Luis Carcavilla (geologist of Madrid) left BC 23 Sept. On 15 Sept, he went with Soria up to the footstep of the spur right to the usual exit couloir (made a deposit there at c7900m). Spur above it sizes c150m high.


expid: DHA117303
peakid: DHA1
year: 2017
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Benjamin Kane
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Dhaulagiri Expedition 2017
countries: Ireland, Russia
approach: Trekked via Marpha
bcdate: 2017-09-10
smtdate: 2017-10-01
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2017-10-03
campsites: BC(10/09,4700m),C1(13-14/09,5700m),C2(19-20/09,6700m),C3(30/09,7250m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  10/09     4700m 
  C1  13-14/09  5700m
  C2  19-20/09  6700m (heavy snowfall! Made deposit at C3)
  C3  30/09     7250m (GPS)
  Smt 01/10     by Yuri Kruglov and Ang Phurba Sherpa (with YK in 2016 MANA) and 
                Dendi Sherpa at 8:30 am.

  Started at 9 pm from C3 the day before, climbing up fixing ropes (impossible de déterrer cordes of Soria sous un m de neige, packed snow, at about 7800m, left these and traversed by themselves simultaneously – because night time, not knowing where to go…). Then traversed to the left towards the exit couloir. Broke trails, each of them, every 20m changing (why used ox). Snow sometimes to the hips for the tracks on the large traverse (drum sound, then collapsed). 

  30 minutes after departure from C3 at 7500m Benjamin Kane (with YK on MANA last 2016) wanted to climb quicker behind them. When they reached 7500m, Kane's brand new Petzl headlamp failed (spare batteries, replaced, not working). Radio light, not working. No proper light, Kane could go no farther. Couldn't wait (-17°C) in the night, so went back to C3 that day. Was really prepared for the top that day.   
  Summit for Kruglov and Ang Phurba at 8:30 am. Lots of time on summit. Back at BC at 9 pm.

  Knew great forecast, knew peaceful weather until midday. So had time. Also didn't want to leave Dendi alone. Episod / Italians on 20 Sept!

  Dendi Sherpa was behind them. Started with them. Either sick or weak? 300m behind...they crossed each other at the corridor exit when Kruglov was going down. Dendi Sherpa summited (picture by Kruglov) at about 9:30-10 am.

  Team left BC on 3 Oct.

  Fixed rope: put a short rope below the summit ridge (in rucksack, climb solo, then anchor and abseil left there); above C3, used fixed ropes left by Carlos team (bad quality-anchors shitty; just clipped carabiner on the fixed rope on descent, but didn't hold it) (too steep, too far left).

  Oxygen: 
    Used from C3 to smt by Kruglov
    Not used by Kane and Reid.

  High point on 30 Sept at 6900m for Kelven Reid (abandoned due to exhaustion).


expid: DHA117304
peakid: DHA1
year: 2017
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Carlalberto Cimenti
sponsor: Dhaulagiri First Line 2017
countries: Switzerland
approach: Marpha->French Pass->BC
bcdate: 2017-09-07
smtdate: 2017-10-08
smttime: 1415
termdate: 2017-10-10
campsites: BC(07/09,4700m),C1(10/09,5700m),C2(12/09,6666m),C3(28/09,7200m),Smt(08/10)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Petrov: 1st summit attempt with Boyan Petrov on 29 Sept: 
    Carlalberto Cimenti (Italy) stopped at c7800m
    Davide Gerlero (Italy) stopped at c7600m
    Matthias Koenig (Switzerland) stopped at c7400-7500m


  BC  07/09  4700m
  C1  10/09  5700m
  C2  12/09  6666m
  C3  28/09  7200m
  Smt 08/10  by Cimenti at 2.15 pm, Koenig at 3 pm.

  The summit team had intended to start at 10:30 pm on 7 Oct, but it was too windy and Koenig was not feeling well. At about 12:30 am Cimenti left for the summit while Koenig stayed in the tent as his upset stomach was still bothering him. At about 3 am, Koenig felt better and left the tent at about 3:30 am to follow Cimenti.

  The snow was about half a meter deep and Cimenti had to break trail. He sometimes broke through the crust and it was hard work. There was some fixed rope on the traverse from about 7600m to 7890m which was probably fixed by Ang Phurba Sherpa of the Russian/Australian expedition. He traversed toward the last couloir that leads up to the ridge. The couloir is about 150m long, which was also fixed. Couloir was snowy. Once Cimenti got to the top of the couloir it took him about 20 minutes to get to the summit, where he spent about 35 minutes. It was still windy, but very clear. When he descended, he crossed Koenig, who was on his way up, just on the exit of the couloirs. Koenig spent about 15 minutes on the summit. On his descent he caught up with Cimenti and they both descended to C3, where they arrived between 6:30 pm (Koenig) and 7 pm (Cimenti).

  The following day they descended to BC. On this final summit push, they did not take their skis with them. They had tried twice with skies, but when it came to the final attempt, they decided that they would just concentrate on the climbing rather than on the skiing.

  Gerlero reached 7900m on the second summit push on 29 Sept. He did not feel well and turned back. On the final summit push, he reached C2. He felt unwell and descended to BC at midnight.

  Skiing: 

  On the second summit push on 29 Sept, Gerlero and Cimenti took their skis to the beginning of the traverse at about 7600m. They deposited their skis there and continued to about 7900m (Gerlero) and 8000m (Cimenti). Cimenti was following Boyan Petrov, but when Petrov decided not to take the first couloir and continued to the traverse, Cimenti decided that he would not have the energy to carry on and turned back.

  When Cimenti and Gerlero turned back they picked up their skis and carried them down to C3 as it felt more comfortable than skiing. They spent another night at C3 and on 30 Sept, Cimenti and Gerlero carried their skis to half way to C2 (about 6900m) and skied all the way down past the Little Eiger to about 5000m.

  On the second summit push on 28 Sept, Koenig left his skis at 7400m and continued to about 7500m, but was too sick to continue with Gerlero and Cimenti. On his descent, he carried his skis to C3 and stayed the night there. On 29 Sept, he skied all the way from C3 to the end of the glacier near the Little Eiger to below C1 at about 5000m.

  Team left BC 10 Oct.

  Oxygen:	Not taken, not used.


expid: DOLM17301
peakid: DOLM
year: 2017
route1: SW Face-W Ridge
nation: Norway
leaders: Tore Sunde-Rasmussen
sponsor: Norwegian Dolma Khang Expedition 2017
approach: By helicopter from Kathmandu to BC via Beding
bcdate: 2017-10-31
smtdate: 2017-11-05
smttime: 1010
termdate: 2017-11-06
termnote: Summited nearby 5840m subpeak of Dolma Khang
othersmts: Climbed 5840m unnamed peak near Dolma Khang
campsites: BC(31/10,4750m),xxx(05/11,5840m)
agency: Ascent Himalayas
routememo:
  Note: team initially thought that they had climbed Dolma Khang (6332m), but later determined that they climbed a nearby 5840m unnamed subpeak.


  BC  31/10  4750m located on rocks at south site of mountain right under the S Face
  Smt 05/11  by Rasmussen, Dawa Tashi, Thundu, Tamting at 10:10 am.
  	  
  Left BC on 6 Nov by helicopter from BC to Ktmdu.

  Route: ascent on SW Face, maybe last bit on [North]West Ridge (Rasmussen not sure). Descent via same route. 

  Mountain lies on Tibetan border, just SE of Gaurishankar, between Gaurishankar and Beding Go.

  Rasmussen wanted to climb Ramdung initially, then he found out that it has been climbed already and Lakpa from Ascent Himalayas came up with Dolma Khang as another option.

  Total expedition consisted of Rasmussen, three climbing Sherpas, one cook, two cook assistants. Sherpas had spent 18 days locating the mountain and preparing BC before Rasmussen flew in by helicopter. Rasmussen had no prior acclimatization and suffered from strong headache first few days at BC.
   
  On summit day he and 3 Sherpas started from BC at 2:30 am. They went straight for the summit from BC, no high camps. Some sections were tricky, scree slopes with a lot of lose rocks. Some climbing as steep as 80-degrees, maybe 4+ according to him. A lot of rockfall, Rasmussen was hit by small rocks on helmet and arms, got some bruises. Section reminded him of his climb on Ama Dablam, but more dangerous. After steep part they reached a ridge, very narrow ridge, Rasmussen more or less crawled along ridge because it was so exposed, Sherpas walked normally. Didn't follow whole ridge to summit, but traversed slope a few meters below summit. From their location they weren't sure which exit led to the true summit, it took some time until they found it. Highest point quite narrow, maximum of two persons could stand there at the same time. At 10:10 am they stood on the top. Took abseils on descent at steep part. At maybe 5100m between crampon point and BC Tamting took a fall on scree slope, rolled down the slope for some meters before he stopped. By falling he had released some rocks, one hit him at hip. Hip is okay now, but he may have broken of his fingers during fall; he's undergoing treatment in Kathmandu now. At 2:30 pm everyone was back at BC. Rasmussen had strong headache after the climb and used oxygen during the night.

  Dolma Khang is also known as Tseringma and it has been climbed by Australian expedition in 1980 trying the SE Ridge of Gaurishankar (GAUR-801-01).

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used by Rasmussen intermittently from maybe 5800m to summit and on 
    descent. At BC during night after summit.

  Fixed rope: 
    Several hundred meters on snow slope, steep rock part and on ridge before summit

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Tashi Sherpa, Gaurishankar-1, Dolakha, 18/04/1987
    Tamting Sherpa, Gaurishankar-1, Dolakha, 20/12/1974
    Thundu Sherpa, Gaurishankar-1, Dolakha, 18/02/1985

accidents:
  Tamting Sherpa fell on scree slope and rolled down a few meters, was hit by a rock at hip and may have broken a finger in fall.


expid: DOLM80101
peakid: DOLM
year: 1980
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Patrick Alexander Cullinan
sponsor: Australian Expedition to Gaurishankar
ascent1: 1st,2nd
approach: Bhote Koshi->Simigaon->Rolwaling Valley
bcdate: 1980-03-14
smtdate: 1980-04-11
smttime: 1230
termdate: 1980-04-15
othersmts: Attempted Gaurishankar (GAUR-801-01)
primid: GAUR80101
campsites:
  BC(14/03,4700m),ABC(16/03,5000m),C1(20/03,5320m),C2(24/03,5580m),C3(26/03,5680m),C4(04/04,6050m),Smt(11,13/04)

routememo:
  Cullinan - 22 April 80

  Tseringma Point 6333m which is definite peak and highest point reached. Reached 12:30 on 11 April by Richards, Brammer and Shambu Lama Tamang and on 13 April by Carroll, Hardless, Remynse and Cullinan.

  Each camp = 1 tent; no room on mountain for tents and most of those were hacked out of ice. Constantly avalanching on C2 and C3 with C3 flattened by spindrift from avalanching. Weather continually bad with heavy snow, drifting snow and white-outs. 2 full good days during entire expedition.

  Ran out of time; said would be back at week 1 May. This route is possible with plenty of equipment (and a fear deaths, adds one member), but ridge is so badly corniced would have been doubtful. With resources we had, Tseringma was just right. One huge rock barrier half-way up to South Summit looks like a brick wall.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 16 April 80

  Gaurishankar camps:
  16 March - 16,800 ft - ABC
  20 March - 18,000 ft - C1
  24 March - 18,500 ft - C2
  26 March - 19,000 ft - C3
   4 April - 19,400 ft - C4

  3 more camps required very good weather.
  All well except Young while going to establish C4 slipped and fell nearly 1200 feet 3 April, but now Ok.


  Charles Dufour - 8 April 80

  24 March met Jim MacDonald one day below BC; sick with altitude illness and was returning. Have had a lot of trouble with equipment disappearing and lot of snow.


  Cullinan - 20 Feb 80

  Approach east to Tungmarnang river, with lower BC at 3200m at this Rolwaling Chu and Tungmarnang, northwards to BC at just under 4000m just below rivers fork then east on ridge line to point 5345m and then north to point 6333m. Then to South Peak (7010m) and then to summit (7146m) calling route SE Ridge.
   
  All now in KTM. By road to Barabise. About 8 days walk to lower BC (1/2 day lower to higher BC).

  3 camps above higher BC but maybe 4; highest camp just below South Summit or possibly at low point between South and North (Main) Peaks.

  BC about 6 March
  Summit about 12 April
  4 Sherpas above BC including sirdar (Shambu Lama or Ang Tsering)
  No oxygen for climbing, only for medical if available in KTM.


  Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 22 April 80

  Gaurishankar abandoned; reached Gauri (Tseringma) Peak, 6333m, on 11 April by Richards and 2 members. Abandoned 13 April because bad weather and shortage of time. All are now in KTM.


expid: DOLM84301
peakid: DOLM
year: 1984
route1: SE Ridge-S Smt
nation: Japan
leaders: Michio Yuasa
sponsor: Japanese Alpine Club Tokai Goodwill Expedition to Gaurishankar
ascent1: 4th
bcdate: 1984-09-30
smtdate: 1984-10-01
termdate: 1984-10-20
othersmts: Attempted Gaurishankar (GAUR-843-01)
campsites: BC(30/08,4800m),C1(05/09,5600m),C2(21/09,6300m),Smt(01/10,6332m)
achievment: 3rd ascent of South Smt
primid: GAUR84301
routememo:
  BC at 4800m at NW of Beding and east of Ramdung Tolung
  C1 at 5600m at under rock face - just NW 
  C2 at 6332m top of Tseringma
  C3 at 6350m on face of S Summit
  Biv at 6600m on S Summit plateau (biv here after going to summit)
  High point at 7010m at S Summit.

  Climbed only to South Summit.

  Planned to make temporary C4 under final face on south side of South Summit, but could not make it because very bad storm from 8 Oct for a weak, so went to South Summit in two bivouacs. On 20 Oct Saito and 3 other Japanese from C2 to BC while other South Summiters stayed in C3. 21 Oct all other summiters to BC and climbing finished because time finished, must go back to work in Japan. To reach main summit would need 4 more days alpine style. Most difficult part: between BC and C2 not so difficult but near C3 called ridge "hell traverse" because was narrow sawtooth with mixed rock, soft snow and ice on its face. Total 8000m fixed rope.

  Some avalanches came down 7-9 Oct, but no one hit (fell across route about BC), but took out some fixed rope. Hamatani altitude sickness and left BC 4 Sept. Yuasa left BC 22 Sept with Hamatami after Hamatani had returned to expedition and again gotten sick.

accidents:
  Some avalanches on Oct 7-9, but no one hit (across route above BC and took out some fixed rope); Hamatani altitude sickness; Yuasa left BC with Hamatani after Hamatani had returned to expedition and again got sick


expid: EVER16177
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Lhakpa Sherpa
sponsor: Mammut #Project360 Everest Expedition 2016
smtdate: 2016-05-19
smttime: 1100
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(19/05)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  A new milestone in virtual mountaineering was celebrated as the four Nepalese mountain guides Lakpa Sherpa and Pemba Rinji Sherpa and their supporters Kusang Sherpa and Ang Kaji Sherpa became the first men in the world to document the whole South route to the summit of Mount Everest with a 360° camera rig for Mammut's #Project360.

  The team summited at 11 am.


expid: EVER17195
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Romania
leaders: Justin Ionescu
sponsor: Romanian Everest Expedition 2017
bcdate: 2017-04-16
smtdate: 2017-05-16
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2017-05-21
campsites: BC(16/04,5363m),C1(25/04,6000m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(28/04,7300m),C4(15/05,8000m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Himalayan Wanderer
routememo:
  Ionescu departed C4 at 10:30 pm on 15 May, summited at 9 am on 16 May, then returned to C4 at 5 pm. Good weather, but cold.


expid: EVER17401
peakid: EVER
year: 2017
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Alex Chicon (Alex Txikon)
sponsor: Alex Txikon Everest Winter 2017/2018
countries: Pakistan
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2018-01-02
smtdate: 2018-01-30
termdate: 2018-03-01
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to high winds and cold weather
campsites: BC(02/01,5350m),C1(08/01,6050m),C2(10/01,6520m),C3(23/01,7100m),xxx(30/01,7900m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Arr Ktm  26/12	
  Lv  Ktm  27/12	
  BC  02/01  5350m
  C1  08/01  6050m
  C2  10/01  6520m (from BC in 8 hours)
  C3  23/01  7100m
  HPt 30/01  7900m by Pasang and Walung 
      30/01  7700m and 7900m (Yellow Band) by all other members and Sherpas.

  Txikon thinks that compared to last year, the expedition was very similar. One of the biggest differences, however, was the fact that even though they were only six climbers and not 11 like in 2017, they only took 9 days to fix the rope up to the Yellow Band. Last year, it took them 20 days.

  The icefall doctors (Tenzing and Gyalzen) only went as far as C2.

  Nuri, Ali Sadpara and Temba Bhote were focused on fixing the rope up to C2 (6100m) until 20 Jan (when they summited Pumori), which means before that, only six people were working and fixing the rope on Everest.

  For their second rotation, they left BC on 27 Jan, reached C2 on 28 Jan and C3 on 29 Jan. On 30/01 they set out in the morning to reach C4. Pasang Sherpa and Walung had set out a little bit earlier than the rest of the team. When they all reached their high points, they turned back due to the cold and the high winds. They descended all the way to BC.

  Between 1 and 17 Feb they spent most of their time inside their tents at BC as it was too windy. They winds died down and they decided to give it another go.

  Third rotation: 
    23 Feb C2 in seven hours. 
    24 Feb C2 in about 4½ hours.
    25 Feb Yellow Band (7700m), but turned back again due to high winds. Back to 
       BC the same day.

  Temperatures:
    C2 from -24 to -30C
    C3 from –30 to -38C
    C3 to high point around -40C

  Weather conditions were a lot less predictable.

  Climb abandoned on Feb due to high winds and cold.

  Team left BC on 1 March.

  Fixed rope: 6000m from BC

  Oxygen: Taken, not used (Txikon intended to climb without O2).

  Sherpas above BC: 7 (including Icefall Doctors)	

    Temba Bhote, Pawakhola, Makalu, 19/03/1982
    Pasang Nurbu Sherpa, Makalu-9, 28/05/1990
    Chhepal Sherpa, Patle-2, Okhalhdunga, 13/07/1982
    Nuri Sherpa, Goli-7, Solukhumbu, 25/04/1986
    Walung Sherpa

  To C2 only (Icefall Doctors):
    Tenzing (AC Sherpa)
    Gyalzen


expid: FUTI14101
peakid: FUTI
year: 2014
route1: NW Glacier-SE Ridge of Futi Himal via Lena Pk
nation: Portugal
leaders: Pedro Guedes Vieira
sponsor: Porto Bhrikuti Expedition
ascent1: 1st?
countries: Brazil
bcdate: 2014-05-03
smtdate: 2014-05-16
termdate: 2014-05-17
othersmts: Attempted Bhrikuti (BHRI-141-01)
campsites: BC(03/05,4600m),ABC(06/05,5000m),C1(09/05,5400m),C2(15/05,6000m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Unique Adventure International
primid: BHRI14101
routememo:
  After 2 days rest, the team decided to climb Futi Himal (via NW Glacier to SE Ridge of Futi Himal via Lena Peak (6325m)) as the route was less long than the one for Bhrikuti. On 14 May slept at C1 again, then slept at C2 the day after. On 16 May, the team started from C2 at 4:30 am, reached the summit of Lena Peak at 11:15, then Futi Himal at 11:45 am, then came back to C2 at 1:30 pm, cleaned it, then left C1 at 4 pm after cleaning everything and eventually reached BC at 7 pm. The day after the team left BC for Tangye; the day after used a tractor back to Shusangye, then by jeep to reach Jomsom.


expid: GANW17301
peakid: GANW
year: 2017
route1: N Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Simon Messner
sponsor: Italian Gangapurna West Expedition 2017
approach: Manang->Tilicho Lake->BC
bcdate: 2017-09-07
smtdate: 2017-09-18
termdate: 2017-09-23
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to loss of tent and equipment
campsites: BC(07/09,5000m),C1(12/09,6000m),C2(18,22/09,6200m),xxx
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  07/09  5000m (in between two moraines)
  C1  12/09  6000m
  C2  18/09  6200m
  HPt 18/09,22/09  6200m.

  According to Messner, they were not attempting Tarke Kang (aka Glacier Dome), but Tharke Kang, which is east of it and is 7140m. [This peak is also known as Gangapurna West, Asapurna, or Lachenal Peak and is on the Ministry list of open peaks. This appears to be the first attempt from the north side.]

  Upon arrival weather was good, however, there was a lot of snow. Trail breaking up to the knees, sometimes hips. Route itself not too technically difficult. About 70 degrees. The first time they reached 6000m they pitched a tent and stayed the night. However, before they set up their tent an avalanche came down at about 5:30 pm and took both climbers with it. Pruenster was in the avalanche for about 10 metres and nearly got swept down the abyss, but stopped before.

  They pitched tent on the debris at 6000m and stayed the night. The next day they descended to BC. Bad weather period followed. A few days later they climbed back for another acclimatization rotation. They pitched their tent a bit higher at 6200m and it snowed a lot during the night and everything got wet. They descended the following day. Complete whiteout, but they made it back to BC. The following three days snowfall.

  On 22 Sept, Messner climbed back up in very good conditions with the new snow being frozen. This time, Pruenster did not go up with him due to stomach problems. Messner was intending to head for the summit due to the excellent conditions; however, when he reached the spot where the tent was, it was gone. Probably swept away by an avalanche. He dug for two hours, but could not find anything. He descended back to BC.

  Climb abandoned due to missing material. They were both very lucky as they were not in the tent when avalanche came down.

  Team left BC on 23 Sept and returned to Ktmdu on 29 Sept by trekking back to Manang and then Besisahar.

  Oxygen: Nnot taken, not used.


expid: GYAJ17301
peakid: GYAJ
year: 2017
route1: W Ridge via NW Face
route2: W Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Pavel Matousek
sponsor: Czech Gyajikang Expedition 2017
ascent1: 9th
ascent2: 10th
approach: Besisahar->Koto->Meta->Phu->BC
bcdate: 2017-09-25
smtdate: 2017-10-07
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2017-10-11
campsites: BC(25/09,4800m),...,Smt(07/10)
achievment: 1st Czech ascent
agency: Campobase Trek
routememo:
  BC  25/09  4800m

  Team A:
  C1  28/09  5400m
  C2  29/09  5700m
  C3  30/09  6100m
  C4  06/10  6400m

  Team B:
  C1  28/09  5700m
  C2  29/09  6000m
  C3  30/09  6300m

  Smt 07/10  by (Team A) Kruml, Masek, Matousek, Novakova, Sedlarik, Vyroubal, Wronka
             by (Team B) Auermueller and Belik.

  Team A: Summit push from BC on 4 Oct to C2. On 5 to Oct C3. On 6 Oct to C4. Of team A: First group consisting of 5 members Kruml, Masek, Sedlarik, Vyroubal and Wronka started from C4 at 6 am. Second group of Matousek and Novakova started at 8 am.  First group reached summit at 3 pm and stayed on summit 30 to 60 minutes. Second group reached summit at 4:30 pm and stayed on summit 45 minutes. All members went down to C4 where first group arrived at 6:30 pm and second group at 8:30 pm. Next day 8 Oct all went down to BC.

  Team B: Auermueller and Belik started their summit push from BC on 4 Oct to C1. On 5 Oct to C2. On 6 Oct to C3. From C3 they started at 7 am on 7 Oct and got to summit at 3:30 pm, stayed on summit 30 minutes and back to C3 at 8 pm. Next day went down to BC.

  The plateau leading to summit is about 3lkm at 7000m. The new line on NW Face was not so difficult. Weather on the summit day was very nice.

  Team left BC on 11 Oct.

  Fixed rope: Between BC to C1 (120m used, but not fixed in upper section).

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

  Route: Team A: West Ridge via NW Face. 
         Team B: West Ridge (normal).

  Records: New line on NW Face and first Czech team.


expid: GYAJ17302
peakid: GYAJ
year: 2017
route1: W Ridge (new line)
nation: Italy
leaders: Luca Montanari
sponsor: Italian Gyajikang Expedition 2017
ascent1: 11th
approach: Flight to Jomsom, trekking via Thorung La->Manang->Koto->Phu
bcdate: 2017-10-14
smtdate: 2017-10-25
smttime: 0815
termdate: 2017-10-27
campsites: BC(14/10,4900m),C1(18/10,5400m),C2(24/10,5800m),Smt(25/10)
achievment: 1st Italian ascent
agency: Satori Adventures (Campobase Treks pmt)
routememo:
  BC  14/10  4900m at "new Himlung BC" opposite of "old Himlung BC", on southern 
                   side of Pangri-Glacier
  C1  18/10  5400m at rocks near glacier
  C2  24/10  5800m at very last rocks before glacier
  Smt 25/10  Montanari, Sartori, Nima Sherpa and Mingma Temba Sherpa

  Team had planned climbing via the classic route but studying conditions and the route, the normal route which was taken by Czech team a few days before was deemed too dangerous because of large hanging seracs and avalanche danger. Instead they decided to ascend on the left side of the glacier, east of normal route. The new route had a lot of crevasses, but they were well visible and easy to negotiate. Both routes merged again before the summit. Crux section was immediately after C2, steep terrain (60 degrees). Glacier shrank a lot, their C2 was located on rocks, where their map showed only glacier.  

  Summit push started from C2 at 1:15 am. They quickly climbed the crux section, a steep ridge leading to a labyrinth of crevasses. They negotiated the crevasses, then reached a plateau at approx 6200m. From the plateau they had to ascend another slope which led to the summit ridge. Reaching summit ridge the wind got stronger, so strong they were struggling to keep their balance. Mingma reached the summit first, shortly followed by the others at 8:15 am. They stayed on the top for 10 minutes, very windy and cold, but clear views. Got down to C2 at 11:30 am, had some rest at C2, then on to C1 (arrival 3 pm). Back to BC on 26 Pct at 10:30 am. 
  Trekked back to Jagat via Koto.

  They believe the majority of future expeditions will choose their new route, since objective dangers seem smaller than on classic route.

  Team left BC on 27 Oct.

  Route: on left side of glacier to West Ridge (east of normal route), then West
         Ridge to summit.

  Oxygen: Taken to BC for medical purpose, not used

  Fixed rope: 30-40m just below C1, 100m just after C2 for crux section (approx. 
              5900-6000m)

  Sherpas: 
    Mingma Temba Sherpa, from Makalu, 36 years
    Nima Sherpa, from Makalu, 21 years


expid: HIML17301
peakid: HIML
year: 2017
route1: W Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Michael Waerthl
sponsor: Amical Alpin Himlung Expedition 2017
countries: Austria
approach: Jagat->Koto->Meta-Phu->BC
bcdate: 2017-09-23
smtdate: 2017-10-04
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2017-10-07
campsites: BC(23/09,4830m),C1(28/09,5400m),C2(03/10,6000m),Smt(04/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Team left C2 at 4 am, summited at 12:30 pm, stayed 10m to 2 hours, then descended to C2 most membes by 6 pm, but 3 members at 10 pm.


expid: HIML17302
peakid: HIML
year: 2017
route1: W Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Diahanne Gilbert
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Himlung Himal Expedition 2017
countries: Sweden
approach: Koto->Meta->Kyang->Phu->Bc
bcdate: 2017-10-22
smtdate: 2017-11-02
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2017-11-05
campsites: BC(22/10,4925m),C1(26/10,5435m),C2(27/10,6050m),Smt(02/11)
agency: Makalu Adventure (Snowy Horizon pmt)
routememo:
  BC  22/10  4925m
  C1  26/10  5435m
  C2  27/10  6050m
  Smt 02/11  Gilbert, Bire Tamang at 10 am.

  Team started from C2 around 12:30 am. Celecia ran out of steam and turned around with Janga Rai at 6500m. Utter was very cold and he was afraid of getting frostbite, he turned around with Lhakpa at 7000m. They descended to C2 where they waited for others. Gilbert and Bire Tamang summitted at 10 am. Stayed on top for 30 minutes, it was freezing cold, then descended to C2 (arrival: 12 pm). They met Utter, Celecia, Lhakpa and Janga at C2 and all went down together to C1 (arrival: 5 pm).

  Hicks suffered from chest infection and couldn't go higher than C1. She slept at C1 on 31 Oct and went to BC the next day where she waited for others.

  Team left BC on 5 Nov.

  Oxygen: Not used, taken to C2 for emergency. 

  Hired: 
    Janga Rai, Kharikhola, 28 years old
    Bire Tamang, Makalu, 24-25 years old, on Everest 2016-2017 with 7 Summits
    Lhakpa Sherpa, Makalu-9, Makalu-Barun, 20/09/1986


expid: HIML17303
peakid: HIML
year: 2017
route1: W Ridge
nation: Israel
leaders: Ilan Buskila
sponsor: Israeli Himlung Expedition 2017
approach: Besisahar via Jagat->Koto->Meta->Phu->BC
bcdate: 2017-10-13
smtdate: 2017-10-20
termdate: 2017-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to weakness and exhaustion
campsites: BC(13/10,4840m),C1(15/10,5453m),C2(17/10,6058m),C3(18/10,6221m),C4(19/10,6320m),xxx(20/10,6500m)
agency: Himalayan RST Expeditions (Snowy Horizon pmt)
routememo:
  BC  13/10  4840m
  C1  15/10  5453m
  C2  17/10  6058m
  C3  18/10  6221m
  C4  19/10  6320m
  HPt 20/10  6500m  by Buskila [and Jirel]

  Started for summit at 7 am from C4. At 9 am turned around, descended to C2. Buskila suffered from loss of appetite during expedition and hadn't eaten properly for 8 days before summit push. As a result he was weakened and had no energy to go all the way to the summit. Weather and conditions were perfect. On 21 Oct to C1, on 22 Oct to BC. From BC back to KTM by helicopter on 24 Oct. 

  Sherpas above BC: 4

  Oxygen: Taken and used by Buskila on descent from C4 to C2.

  Hired: 
    Lal Bahadur Jirel


expid: HIML17304
peakid: HIML
year: 2017
route1: W Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Michal Kleslo
sponsor: Czechoslovak Himlung Expedition 2017
countries: Slovakia
approach: Koto->Phu->BC
bcdate: 2017-10-05
smtdate: 2017-10-11
smttime: 1320
termdate: 2017-10-15
campsites: BC(05/10,4900m),C1(08/10,5450m),C2(10/10,6050m),Smt(11/10)
agency: Sherpa Adventure Travel
routememo:
  Summit team departed C2 at 3:30 am, summited at 1:20 pm, stayed 15 minutes, then descended to C2. Weather was sunny, but windy.


expid: KCHS17401
peakid: KCHS
year: 2017
route1: E Ridge from S
nation: UK
leaders: Alexander Kay
sponsor: British Kangchung Shar Expedition 2017
ascent1: 4th
approach: From Lobuche via Cho La pass
smtdate: 2017-12-05
campsites: BC(5400m),Smt(05/12)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  A first ascent in the Himalayas
  Published on February 11, 2018 in LinkedIn

  After summitting Lobuche East I headed back to Above the Cloud Lodge. Sam, my favourite host of the trip, was surprised to see me back so soon. She even asked me if I had summitted the right mountain! 

  I recuperated for the rest of the afternoon, passing in and out of sleep without a care in the World. Quickly enough I was residing to my cold bedroom for the night. Over the last five nights I had to’d and fro’d between a tent and teahouses, sleeping at various altitudes between 4900m & 5500m. I was looking forward to descending to Dzongla (4800m), where I hoped to grab even an extra degree of heat at night. I waved farewell to Sam and set off down the valley.

  The struggle to Dzongla was real.

  In a bid to save some cash, I would walk the distance carrying both of my bags. My rucksack weighed in at around 12kg, but my 130L climbing bag - full of ice axes, metalwork, high altitude boots, a 60m rope, etc. - probably sat at around 25-30kg. Tthe worst part about it was that there were no shoulder straps.

  I had left Lobuche with it on my shoulders using the standard carry-straps, but I soon heared the sound of material tearing as I bounded along the trail. I stopped and engineered some make-shift straps out a piece of tatt (old climbing rope). The rope was an off-cut from a ‘static’ abseiling rop and was around 9mm thick. This meant it had hardly any elasticity compared to a ‘dynamic’ climbing rope. As I walked along the rope cut into my shoulders painfully. I stopped on a number of occasions to try and make it more comfortable, each time falling backwards onto the bag and rolling away from it, trying as best as possible to do the same in reverse once I had altered the strap. It was to no avail.

  In foreign countries, whenever possible, it is always nice to get a nod of approval from a hardy local. 

  Back in 2016, whilst working on Mount Kenya I had descended with my group back to base camp. We had summitted Point Lenana (4985m) that same morning and it had taken us around 6.5 hours to get from Shipton’s camp (4200m) back to base camp (3’300m). I saw the group off the next morning and with an objective of my own in mind shot back up to Shipton’s camp. This particular group was my 4th back-to-back team on the mountain and having now spent over 20 days at altitude, I was really well acclimatised. On the way, I swiftly caught up to a small team who were just beginning their trek and stopped to say hello. As well as finding it unusual to see somebody alone on the mountain, their guide was dumbstruck that a random, lone Westerner could move so quickly at the altitude. He obviously wasn’t aware that I may have already been acclimatised. Before I left him pondering as to how I was moving so fast, he jokingly called me a ‘White, African Mountain Goat’ and gave me a remarkable nod of approval. Of course, it was only because I was acclimatised, but the approval by the local had made me feel all warm and fuzzy inside. I giggled at the thought of him trying to tell his clients that they had to keep a ‘pole pole’ pace. I reached Shipton’s camp in three hours.

  A similar thing happened on my way to Dzongla, but on multiple occasions. It was very funny indeed. I’m not a very big guy - around 70kg and 5’11. I was roughly carrying half of my own weight on my back and the combination of the two bags totally dwarfed me, much to amusement of the Nepalese locals I encountered. If it wasn’t for the many comical and bewildered reactions, rounding each new corner into on-coming Sherpas, then my only feeling upon my arrival into Dzongla would have been for the physical one of thinking I had been hit by a bus.

  “Strong and crazy like Sherpa”, they said, as I passed them along the trail. I set one group of lads off into a fit of laughter as I sat down beside them, amusingly wiping my brow. They couldn’t believe their eyes - “Usually we carry the big bags!”. Encouraged, I strided on, certain they were laughing at me instead of with me, but I was happy to make their day.

  I already had the utmost respect for Sherpas by this stage, but after only 4 hours of staggering along I had a new level of respect for them altogether. They surely are the strongest members of the human race alive.

  Upon arrival in Dzongla I met back up with Stan.

  We hadn’t seen each other since our successful summits of Island Peak, but had kept in contact. Tim, Stan’s original climbing parter, had already left the Himalayas, his trip thwarted by frustrating bouts of sickness. Stan had been able to avoid the bugs and had been trying to decide what he wanted to do next while he spent some time recovering at the comfortable altitude of 3400m in Namche Bazaar. He was looking for one final challenge before leaving the Khumbu, as were I. Stan met me with a similar facial expression to the one I had. He had reached Dzongla in only 2 days having carried a heavy load himself.

  We were both interested in climbing one more 6000m peak and a number of peaks were on option to us, we just had to come to a decision. I eventually managed to convince Stan that we should attempt a peak to the est, known as Kangchung. I’d been given a tip-off from an experienced friend who'd mentioned us that Kangchung was thought to be unclimbed, both officially and unofficially. Peaks in Nepal above 6000m, and many above 5000m, require you to hold a permit before you attempt them. Some peaks, like Kangchung, are far off the beaten track, therefore many teams try to save money by risking climbing them unofficially – i.e., without a permit. This is not recommended, both in an economical light – you are not bringing money into the National Park by doing this – but also in a safety light, for were you to get into trouble, then help may not be so easily obtained (you can’t really let anyone know you’re going there…). 

  Unofficial climbs never tend to make their way into the Himalayan Database, unless the climbers are foolish enough to try and submit it, knowing they have no proof of permit. Thus finding out whether Kangchung had even been climbed yet was proving difficult. We had a small window of time before the weather began to get worse and we decided to go for it.

  Annoyingly, soon after obtaining our permits, we found out that the summit had been climbed before, both officially and unofficially. A deeper dig in the Himalayan database also seemed to confirm it. But whilst searching the records we did work out one exciting thing. Kangchung's East ridge remained unclimbed. 

  A first ascent on a Himalayan peak was definately worth pushing our bodies for one last time. The cost of the permit was also a rather convincing reason!

  After a few days of forced rest, Stan and I were ready to bag our final mountain of the trip. The guys at the Mountain Home in Dzongla had been good to us, feeding us hearty meals and even providing us with a surprise chocolate cake for Stan’s birthday. The real surprise came later on in the week however, when a $10 price-tag came up on our bill! You’ve gotta laugh.

  Up until that point we had been fine-dining mostly on a repetitive diet of Dal Bhat, the Nepalese dish of choice. Every night, in every new teahouse, a short while was spent pondering over a totally similar menu to the last place. I grew fond of certain things but Dal Bhat was and is the go-to choice for weary trekkers, perfect for replacing calories at the end of the day; A traditional meal from the Indian subcontinent, Dal Bhat consists of steamed rice and a cooked lentil soup. In most places it is also served with a side of curry and a poppadom. The best part about is that within the price you pay you are entitled to a free refill. However, unlike your coca-cola refill at Subway, usually after becoming full from the first, hefty portion, you are a little disinterested in the latter, no matter how good it tastes. 

  The food in Nepal is generally really great. Be sure to look out for steamed momo’s and when you get the chance, try a portion from a local family in a mountain village, or a street-seller in Kathmandu, rather than a teahouse. I found them to be much better tasting and you’ll also get a fair bit more for your money.

  Getting to the base of Kangchung was a rather uninspiring journey.

  After crossing the Cho La pass, Stan and I broke from the trail and took a direct route towards the bottom of the mountain. I say the journey to Kangchung was uninspiring, not for the scenery, but for the quality of the rock we encountered around the base of the mountain. It was a wasteland of discarded, broken granite, fallen at the whey-side after years of tectonic movements, weathering and erosion. It did not inspire confidence.

  We had brought plenty of water, but still required to fill up our bottles for cooking. At one stage during the walk-in we passed by a muddy, sandy, frozen lake. We felt certain that it would still be undrinkable even after filtering and boiling it, and we were happy to have opted to carry a heavier load full of bladders containing fresh water.

  Camp was made at around 5400m, at the tongue of the Cho La Col glacier. Fresh water flowed from its mouth, but glacial water can never be too trustworthy. Sediments flow in it and it can make your stomach ache from the cold. We didn’t want to boil drinking water where possible, knowing we may need the gas for cooking.

  That night we sat and admired the view. Different peaks, different villages: A new scene for both of us. Stars once again began to fill the undisturbed sky. There’s no light pollution in the Himalayas, and so long as clouds don’t impede the view, most nights the Milky Way is lit up like a twinkling carpet at a film premier. No luxury hotels here, and forever may that remain. Why settle for 5 stars when you can have a million?

  5 am. Coffee. Noodles. More coffee. 

  Stan likes his coffee in the morning more than me.

  From camp last night the East ridge of Kangchung looked like a fairly simple affair. It was only 600m of climbing and we were well acclimatised. We’d stripped our kit down to the lightest, safest combination possible. Knowing we would be attempting to climb the peak during the day, we opted to get rid of the bulky, cold-weather, high altitude boots and climb in our now-holey approach shoes, intending on moving quickly over the easier terrain and giving ourselves time on anything that presented a little more difficulty. Little did we know that it was to prove a lot more exciting than the gentle un-roped amble we’d had in mind. I’m sure Stan at one stage had even mentioned being back in camp eating noodles and drinking coffee by midday.

  The walk across to the start of the ridge was arduous enough. Scree everywhere. Nothing was worn, no cairns for us to follow beyond the first little hump of rocks. We both picked what we felt was the most convenient line and met up at the base of the ridge.

  Initially we enjoyed blissful granite slab-climbing. We solo’d alongside each other in some fantastic positions, negotiating the ridge by the easiest route but always staying along its crest. A few knife-edged sections slowed us down at times, but careful movement across it made for a continually-fast pace. As we climbed higher however, we noticed that the quality of rock was becoming worse with every step.

  We soon found ourselves on knife-edged terrain with little to nothing in the way of a decent anchor to attach to. We had acknowledged some steeper terrain higher up the shoulder of the mountain may require the rope, but were convinced we could make it that far by scrambling alone. The rope had been deployed hours before we had wished it to be. We swung leads and scratched around desperately to secure each other to the mountain, but mostly we were slinging sharp, granite boulders of which were perilously perched, threatening to topple down at any moment. It felt safer at times to not be attached to anything.

  We rarely stopped, and only ever for a short while. The climb required our full attention and it was totally absorbing. We traversed unnavigable sections, down-climbing at times, all the while skidding on what felt like loose pebbles above a sheer precipices. On numerous occasions we stopped and shared a stare – not like the hilarious blank stare that I got from some of the locals at times – but a stare that spoke only few words, but had great meaning. “What on Earth are we doing here?”.

  But we were only ever as committed as until the decision to turn around, with the ability to return via the same route. Thus far, although at times we had encountered some fairly shoddy rock, we had always clocked a relatively-good anchor in which we could use to retreat back down.

  Finally we came to the base of the final steepening. Stan attached himself to another massive, yet loose granite block as I set off on the sharp end on what felt like one of the boldest leads of my life. I climbed around 10m of granite slab before I found anything in the way of a good gear placement. Even then I didn’t trust it. It neared vertical at times but fortunately the flapping rubber on my shoes held up and my smear did not fail me. All the while I was positioned on the centre of a sloping ridge which fell down around 1000m on both sides: A fall here was out of the question.

  I was climbing close to my limit and at 5900m I was really feeling it. After two or three tenuous moves I’d have to stop and regain my breath and compose myself. I was committed now. It’s never as easy as simply climbing back down. I carried on nervously until I topped out onto a grandstand of what were, unsurprisngly, loose blocks. Fantastic… I’d protected the ridge as best as I could for Stan, and although he is stronger and a technically-better that I, I prayed he would concentrate as much as I had done. A fall for him would undoubtedly leave him hanging in space. That’s if the rope remained intact.

  Together we negotiated the final tippy-top of the mountain. I say tippy-top because there wasn’t a single rock attached. At one stage Stan let off a yelp as he shifted a huge block from its perch and we watched in silence as it careered down noisily to the valley floor. I felt lucky to be stood above him and didn’t know whether to giggle like a frightened child or laugh hysterically like a maniac. 

  Stan took the lead on the final 5m headwall. It had no gear so I was happy to let him have his turn! After belaying me up, we crawled our way over the last two small rises until we were stood on what we could only assume were the leftovers of a summit once taller. 

  This time, unlike on Lobuche East where I felt little to no emotion, I couldn’t decide what to feel more strongly. Honesty would tell me fear was the overriding emotion. Fearful of how the hell we were going to get back down There was not a single, solid anchor that I would have used by choice to abseil off of – instead, merely a handful of loose rocks to choose from, some bigger than others. 

  We let relief take over for a little while. We deserved that much at least. Happiness and feelings of fun could come as secondary emotions when we had reached the safety of the tent. We had been stupid and brave and foolish and adventurous, to continue on for as long as we did. At every iffy stage we had shared a discussion as to whether we should continue. At one stage we had come really close to sacking it off and heading back down for a brew (coffee for Stan). 

  But we’d done it. And we were the first ever (and we recommend the last!). We’d made the right decisions to not kill ourselves, and it felt pretty damn special to be stood on top of what had turned out to be a real nail-biter of an ascent. This time I did shout and scream on the summit, and I hi-fived my climbing partner and gave him a pat on the back for sticking it out with me. This had, after all, been the first climb that Stan and I had ever shared. We’d met a few years previous but had never linked up until now…. 

  Funny how things work out eh? Everything happen for a reason.

  We got down Ok. I wouldn’t be writing this if we hadn’t. We abseiled a total of 7 times (almost half the length of the route), down-climbed and skittered our way along wobbly, knife-edged terrain once more. We cursed and filled our pants (fortunately only metaphorically) more times than I wish to share, but we made it in the end. Back to our tent for a fairly reasonable 5 pm.

  There was no way we were heading back over the Cho La pass that evening, as much as we both wanted to. Both mentally and physically exhausted, we collapsed into the tent. Being constantly scared for the best part of 12 hours had been tiring. Stan took charge of the cooking duties that night and I was very grateful. I should have done it really, especially after it was me that convinced him to take on such an audacious ‘pile of rocks’ that Kangchung is. But now, with over three weeks at altitude under my belt, and three 6000m peaks summitted within that time, and very little rest due to my over-zealous nature, my body had good reason to be tired.

  It was time for me to bid farewell to the Khumbu. I at least wanted to descend to a more comfortable altitude to get some recovery and, with my flight home in 9 days, it seemed logical to head down and stay down. There would be time enough at least, for one final trip to the Namche Bakery on the way through.


expid: KHAM17301
peakid: KHAM
year: 2017
route1: N side
nation: France
leaders: Philippe Jean Marty
sponsor: Marty Khumjungar Expedition 2017
approach: Jomsom->Muktinath->Gyu La->Khampa Camp->Purano Kog->Makar Pass->Gowa La->BC
bcdate: 2017-11-14
smtdate: 2017-11-21
termdate: 2017-11-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to dangerous conditions
othersmts: Summited nearby Futi Himal (6425m) and Lena peaks (6325m) on 22 Nov by Sherpas and 4 members
campsites: BC(14/11,5350m),ABC(18/11,5920m),C1(20/11,6170m),xxx(21/11,6600m)
agency: Tribeni Treks
routememo:
  BC  14/11  5350m
  ABC 18/12  5920m
  C1  20/11  6170m (afoot of the North Face)
  HPt 20/11  6170m by 4 members
  Hpt 21/11  6600m by Nima Sherpa.

  20 Nov: all members and hired left ABC for C1 (6170m) by easy route on glacier.

  21 Nov: all members stayed at C1. Meanwhile Nima Sherpa and And Dawa Sherpa began to equip the North Face, all in ice, fixing the first 200m of the face. From the top of it, Nima went alone to the 6600m col. That evening, a briefing with the whole team at C1 led to decide to not to make an attempt on the peak, due to the mountain and weather conditions. Marty fearing also that 2 less experienced members of the team (Ulcakar and Volle), already not being fully acclimatized (and also not used to using fixed ropes), to be too slow up there.

  22 Nov: all members and Sherpas traversed Futi Himal, then Lena Peak, in good ice conditions, but with strong wind. Great day on a nice ridge with great view. Night at ABC.

  23 Nov: all back to BC.
  24 Nov: left BC.

  On return, Nima Sherpa and 4 members trekked back on their own, staying at Dhey village.

  Fixed rope: 200m at begining of North Face of 6600m col.

  Climb abandoned 21 November due to mountain conditions (North Face of col 6600m in ice), weather conditions (strong wind), lack of experience and acclimatization for 2 members.

  Hired:
    Nima Sherpa, Makalu-5, Makalu-Barun, 29/03/1987, ID 113663,
    Ang Dawa Sherpa


expid: KORL17301
peakid: KORL
year: 2017
route1: W Face-S Ridge from S to Pt 5670m
nation: UK
leaders: Brian Jackson
sponsor: Unclimbed Peak Expedition 2017
ascent1: 1st
approach: By Jeep to Lamabagar, trekking via Lamabagar->Lumnan-<Thasing->Lapche->BC
bcdate: 2017-11-13
smtdate: 2017-11-18
smttime: 1020
termdate: 2017-11-19
othersmts: Climbed nearby peak of 5670m
campsites: BC(13/11,4800m),ABC(16/11,5300m),xxxx(18/11,5670m)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  Note: This team climbed a nearby subpeak of 5670m rather than the true Korlang Pari Tippa peak of 5738m.


  Arrival interview - 6 Nov 2018

  Peak lies on Nepal/Chinese border, whole area is unclimbed. Rolwaling has two valleys, peak lies in northern valley, rarely visited by tourists. After Lapche, two valleys split, team will take northeastern valley and camp at the Kidibu Khola right on the border. Then head up straight to a plateau, “no one has been there, not even yak herders”. BC on plateau. Cirque of rock towers. ABC (5350m) on a glacial lake. They’ll probably take the West Ridge, but not sure yet. Peak is a “big towering rock peak”.


  Brian Jackson (email) - 10 July 2018

  We climbed the West Face and then the South Ridge (Tibetan border) to reach the summit. The rock was extremely friable and loose and we encountered several rock falls as we climbed. We utilised more than 300m of fixed line to assist with safety on the jumar ascent and the abseil descent. We had to climb through one of the rock gendarmes (caving moves) to get onto the ridge, it was then on poor rock to reach the summit. There were deep patches of snow from the snowstorm overnight on our first night at ABC.

  Team left ABC departure on November 19th and went past BC to Lapche in the same day.


  First Ascent of Korlang Pari Tippa – Home of the Yeti

  By Brian Jackson, Expedition Leader

  In November 2017 I led a team as we attempted a first ascent of the previously unclimbed peak ‘Korlang Pari Tippa’ (5738m) on the Nepal/Tibet border.

  This would be my 3rd time travelling to the Rolwaling Valley, having twice been to the East-West valley, but will now be traveling into the North-South valley toward Lapche Monastery and Tibet. Arriving in Lamabagar, after 11 very bumpy off-road hours, we pitched our tents and start the routine of wild camping that will hopefully see us reach our Advanced Base Camp in 9 days.

  From the first day of the trek in we faced tough conditions as it was clear that the low route through the gorge had not been used for at least a year since the original recce. We had to machete our way through bush, make temporary bridges to span some water flows and climb around large rock falls that were caused by the devastating 2015 earthquakes.

  After Day 1, the route becomes much easier as there is a well-walked local path between the villages of Lumnan and Lapche. We pass the settlements of Thanchhemu and Thasing, not much more than 1 or 2 stone huts with 5 or 6 people and lots of dzos, a hybrid of cow and yak.

  As we approached Lapche monastery, the valley opens and we could see the unclimbed peak of Chomo Pamari (6109m) and other 6000m peaks on the Tibetan border. The site of our camp indicated we had reached the end of any civilisation and would now be even more isolated as we trekked to the Tibetan border, climbing up to the plateau above the Kidibu Khola and up to our Base Camp at 4800m (28°08’34”N, 86°11’32”E). The next day took us off the beaten track, off the map and into Tibet, setting off up the North-East valley as the valley splits into two at Lapche and both lead into Tibet.

  The walk to Base Camp was extremely tough gaining 700m straight up the steep unforgiving valley side until we reached our plateau. The plateau was surrounded by a cul de sac of rock towers and peaks, all devoid of snow but we still had no view of our peak, as the plateau curved around to the right and there was a glacial lateral moraine in front of our Camp. We spent two rest days at Base Camp before moving to the Advanced Base Camp (5300m 28°10’24”N, 86°11’28”E) at the foot of our peak, near to a high glacial lake. Here we hit our first real snow and saw the first views of our peak covered with rock towers along a convoluted ridge. Prior to summit day the Sherpas set up the 450m of fixed line with pitons into the unstable rock that will hopefully be our peak.

  On Saturday 18th November we set off for the summit. The height gain was only 438m, but the ascent was tough on large scree and moving rocks, straight up the West Face. At one point we reached a gendarme (large tower) that we could not go around or over, so found a route directly through it, crawling through in something more akin to caving moves, removing our day sacks to enable us to squeeze through. This allowed us to get to the South Ridge line and the border - we were now walking with one foot in Nepal and the other in Tibet. Around another gendarme and we finally reached the highest point possible on this tower and are stunned at the view. We could see 5 of the 8000m peaks (Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Makalu and Shishapangma) and several 7000m and 6000m peaks, all laid out before us in a complete 360-degree panorama! We recorded several different heights on our GPS devices and satellite tracker so decided to go in the middle with the government stated height of 5738m (28°10’24”N, 86°11’28”E).

  The climbing team were Brian Jackson (expedition leader), Mark Rowland, Ian Stead, Rob Boulton, Joe O’Connor and Dan Walker, led by climbing Sherpas, Dawa Rita Sherpa and Mindu Sherpa.


expid: KYAZ17301
peakid: KYAZ
year: 2017
route1: SSW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Martina Bauer Gfoellner
sponsor: Robert Gasser Memorial Expedition 2017
countries: Germany, Italy
approach: Trek to Gokyo->Renjo La->Lunde->Mende
bcdate: 2017-11-06
smtdate: 2017-11-08
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2017-11-09
campsites: BC(06/11,4538m),C1(07/11,5268m),Smt(08/11)
agency: Sherpa & Swiss Adventures
routememo:
  BC  06/11  4538m
  C1  07/11  5268m
  Smt 08/11  by Pilz, Gfoellner, Gufler, Kalkbrenner, Kaltenbrunner, Wesesslintner,
             Bierling, Phu Chettar, Ang Sarki, Thukten Dorje at 11:30 am.

  Summit team and Leiss left C1 at 3 am. Weather was clear and calm. Long and arduous approach march over big boulders. Leiss reached about 5458m at 5 am. He was not feeling well and turned back to C1. Rest of the team carried on and reached the saddle at about 6:35 am. From there they carried on with crampons. Straigthforward climb. They spent about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to C1, where they arrived 3:45 pm.

  Jericha reached C1 on 7 Nov. He did not leave C11 for the summit as he was not feeling well. He stayed at C1 and waited for the rest of the group. 

  All down to BC on 9 Nov. Team left BC on 9 Nov, arrived in Kathmandu 13 Nov from Lukla by plane.

  Rope fixed: 400m

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

  Sherpas:
    Phu Chhettar, Chaurikharka-4, (2051/08/10)
    Ang Sarki, Ghat, 18/05/61
    Thukten Dorje, Thami, 30/06/68


expid: KYR117301
peakid: KYR1
year: 2017
route1: SW Face-NW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Yeon Heon-Mo
sponsor: South Korean Kyungka Ri I Expedition 2017
approach: Syabrubesi->Kyanjin Gompa->Langsisha Karka->BC via Shalbachum Glacier
bcdate: 2017-10-11
smtdate: 2017-10-15
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2017-10-18
campsites: BC(11/10,4700m),C1(13/10,5300m),C2(14/10,5700m),Smt(15/10)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  11/10  4700m
  C1  13/10  5300m
  C2  14/10  5700m
  Smt 15/10  by Oh Min-Young, Han Sang-Hum, Dawa Nurbu, Pasang Nurbu at 10-10:30 am.

  First ascent of Kyungka Ri via SW Face, last part of the route to the summit on Northwest Ridge. Team was well prepared and gathered a lot of details about the climb beforehand. There were some technical parts to be climbed, but in general, the route was straightforward. Up to C1 only trekking, from C1 to summit they fixed ropes.

  BC was established at approx. 4700m on the Shalbachum Glacier. On 12 Oct members had a rest day at BC, two Sherpas Dawa Nurbu and Pasang Nurbu established C1 at 5300m. On 13 Oct team started their walk from BC to C1 at 8 am, they moved on the western side of the glacier and crossed it at the head of the valley. That day they reached C1 at 3 pm. Next day at 8 am 5 members continued the climb to C2, which they reached at 2:10 pm. C2 was established below a rocky wall at approximately 5700m.

  On summit day team started at 3 am. Weather and conditions were generally good. They had to cross a large crevasse at approximately 6200m which was 20m in length and 10m in depth, they abseiled into the crevasse and climbed up the other side. Shortly after the crevasse, they gained the NW Ridge, which they followed to the summit. All 4 climbers summitted between 10-10:30 am. They stayed on the summit for 30 minutes. Pasang Nurbu and Han Sang-Hum descended to C1, which they reached at 5 pm. Dawa Nurbu and Oh Min-Young descended to C2. Everyone was back at BC on 16 Oct.  Team left BC on 18 Oct.

  Other members never aimed for the summit, they solely supported summit team. 

  Members name the route Dae Jeon Alpine Federation (DAF 50) Route, in respect of the 50th anniversary of Dae Jeon Alpine Federation.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

  Fixed rope: from C1 to summit.

  Members :
    Oh Chi-Whan (high point: C1)
    Han Sang-Hum (S)
    Oh Min-Young (S)
    Yang Han-Mo (high point: C1)
    Byeon Jun-Ki (high point: C2)
    Yeon Heon-Mo (high point: C1)

  Hired : 
    Sange Furi Sherpa, 24/11/1970 (high point: C1)
    Pasang Nurbu Sherpa, 28/05/1990  
    Dawa Nurbu Sherpa, 24/02/1998


expid: LARK17301
peakid: LARK
year: 2017
route1: SE Face
nation: Georgia
leaders: Gia Tortladze
sponsor: Georgian Larkya Lha Expedition
ascent1: 1st offical
bcdate: 2017-09-16
smtdate: 2017-09-27
smttime: 2012
termdate: 2017-09-30
achievment: 1st ascent of Larkya Peak
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(16/09,4550m),ABC(17/09,4700m),C1(18/09,5200m),C2(19/09,5600m),Biv3(23/09,5800m),Biv4(24/09,6050m),Biv5(26/09,6200m),Smt(27/09)

routememo:
  BC   16/09  4550m
  ABC  17/09  4700m
  C1   18/09  5200m
  C2   19-22/09  5600m (at foot of the wall)
  Biv3 23/09  5800m
  Biv4 24-25,27/09  6050m
  Biv5 26/09  6200m
  Smt  27/09  by all 3 members at 8 pm.

  Members : 
    Archil Badriashvili, Bakar Gelashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze (summit), 
    Gia Tortladze (stopped the climb on 17/09, short after ABC because too much 
      objective risk)

  20 Sept: reached the base of the SE face (C2) after a delicate glacier approach.

  21 Sept: bad weather, waiting at C2.

  22 Sept: team climbed first 3 pitches up to M4. Slept at C2.

  23 Sept: climbed 1 more mixed pitch. had took all necessary gear up to install Bivy 3 on their platform.

  24 Sept: Archil climbed 4 pitches more and stopped at 6050m, hauling equipment till 3 am, then sleeping on their platform under an overhang (Bivy 4).

  25 Sept: Giorgi and Bakar traversed to the right and climbed directly towards the crux starting from 6070m. Crux being a loose belt of rock climbed straight, including a 6a crack system and in the end AI4 pitch. Climbed 40 meters for 5 hours that day. Slept at Bivy 4.

  26 Sept: Archil climbed three rope-lengths through overhanging sections. Weather improving. In the stayed all 3 in their two-man single tent on a small ledge.

  27 Sept: Giorgi led three very difficult pitches though cracks and frozen sections. At around 20:00 all 3 stood on the summit of Larkya Peak. Slept at Bivy 4 that night.

  28 Sept: after a day rest, in the evening team started again its descent through the night.

  29 Sept: reached C2 in the morning, where team rested for a few hours. Then reached BC.

  30 Sept: left BC for Samdo.

  Georgian route: 6A/ED1/6a or 5.10b/M5/A4/80°. 
     1700m from ABC, 700m SE face (15 pitches plus summit ridge).

  Team left BC on 30 of Sept.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

  Records: 1st ascent of the peak, 1st ascent of the SE Face.


expid: LARK17302
peakid: LARK
year: 2017
route1: SE Face
nation: Ecuador
leaders: Topo Mena
sponsor: Ecuadorian Larkya Peak Expedition 2017
ascent1: 2nd official
approach: Helicopter to Dharamsala, trekked via Syanche Glacier to base of SE Face
bcdate: 2017-10-12
smtdate: 2017-10-19
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2017-10-22
campsites: BC(12/10,4480m),ABC(14/10,5700m),C1(18/10,6100m),Smt(19/10)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  BC  12/10  4480m at Dharamsala (on Manaslu Trek)
  ABC 14/10  5700m at base of SE Face
  C1  18/10  6100m at middle of face on a small ledge.
  Smt 19/10  by Mena, Morales, Navarrete at 2:30 pm.

  Details of climb :
  13/10 via the Syanche-Glacier to camp near NW Face of Manaslu North
  14/10 to ABC at base of SE Face at 5700m
  15/10 stayed at camp waiting for better weather
  16/11 fixed rope first 100m of face
  17/10 rest day
  18/10 climb from base (5700m) to bivouac in middle of face (6100m)
  19/10 summit and descend to ABC 
  20/10 waited for better weather
  21/10 trek to Dharamsala

  Team arrived in Dharamsala (BC) by helicopter on 12 Oct. 

  On 18 Oct they slept on a little ledge in the middle of the wall (approximately at 6100m). Left 4 bolts, 4 pitons and all anchors on the wall. Climbing the entire face required 17 pitches, they rated it with 5.11r and C2 on clean scale; UIAA: 7, French: 6c (whole face 700m). Head wall from 6200m until 6400m was crux section. Very poor rock quality at headwall, very lose rock. Beautiful climbing at lower part of face, good rock quality.

  On summit day they started at 5 am, got to top at 2:30 pm. Stayed on top for maybe 30 minutes, weather was perfect. Snowy summit, cornices. Then abseiled down the whole face in 5-6 hours. No serious rockfall.

  Team left BC on 22 Oct.

  On the way out they trekked to Dharapani via the Larkya La, then by Jeep to KTM. 
  	 
  Climbing route: SE Face, slightly to the right of Georgian 1st ascent route.

  Oxygen use: not taken not used.

  Fixed rope: 100m (first 100m, at base of mountain).


expid: LHOT17301
peakid: LHOT
year: 2017
route1: S Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Hong Sung-Taek
sponsor: Korean Lhotse South Face Expedition 2017
countries: Spain
approach: Lukla->Namche->Chhukung
bcdate: 2017-09-28
smtdate: 2017-11-20
termdate: 2017-11-22
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to strong winds and extreme cold
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal
campsites:
  BC(28/09,5250m),ABC(02/10,5150m),C1(04/10,5900m),C2(05/10,7200m),C3(17/10,7800m),C4(20/10,8250m),xxx(20/11,8300m)

routememo:
  BC  28/09  5250m
  ABC 02/10  5150m
  C1  04/10  5900m
  C2  05/10  7200m
  C3  17/10  7800m
  C4  20/10  8250m
  HPt 20/11  8300m by Hong, Seong, Phurba Ongel, Phurba, Mingma Thuruchi, Ngada,
             Pasang, Lhakpa, Bir Kaji Tamang, Tenjing	

  Hong, Seong, Phurba Ongel, Phurba, Mingma Thuruchi, Ngada, Pasang, Lhakpa, Bir Kaji Tamang, Tenjing summit push started from C4 around noon on 20 November. They reached at 8300m at 5 pm and aborted climbing due to high wind. The team stayed at C4 for a while and went down to BC same day. Hong said that he will come back in spring 2018.

  Accidents: The tent in which Hong was in hit by avalanche on 19 Oct at C4. The tent fell apart and climbing gears swept away, luckily Hong survived. Phurba Ongel, Lakpa, Ngada and Phurbu were hit by fallen rock in different days resulting brushes, but not seriously injured. Egocheaga's left big toe hit by falling stone and broken on 31 Oct while making C4. He left BC on 4 Nov and Kathmandu around 22 November.

  Climb abandoned on 21 November due to strong wind and low temperature. Team left BC on 22 November.

  Fixed rope: 6000m between 5200m to 8300m

  Oxygen: Taken, not used


expid: MAKA17301
peakid: MAKA
year: 2017
route1: NW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Francois Solignac
sponsor: French Makalu Autumn 2017
approach: Yak Kharka by helicopter, then heli to Hillary BC
bcdate: 2017-09-18
smtdate: 2017-10-01
termdate: 2017-10-04
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to deep snow
agency: Sherpa Shepherds
campsites:
  ABC(18/09,5650m),C1(20/09,6180m),C2(23-24/09,6620m),C3(28-29/09,7500m),C4(30/09-01/10,7700m),xxx(30/09,8100m)

routememo:
  ABC 18/09  5650m 
  C1  20/09  6180m
  C2  23-24/09  6620m
  C3  28-29/09  7500m (27/09 at C2 straight from ABC)
  C4  30/09-01/10  7650m
  HPt 01/10  8070m by David Lavie, Mehdi Van Haver at 9 am.

  Summit day (1 Oct) for Lavie and Van Haver:
    Started at 0:30 am from C4
    High point at 9 am at 8070m (altimeter measurement)

  François and Pascal stopped at C4, started one day after Mehdi and David. Stayed the 1 Oct at C4 with others. On the 2 Oct, didn't go further, as it had snowed in the night, the route wouldn't be equipped to the summit, so they came back down with the group.  

  Chinese and Singaporean Sherpas fixed almost whole route to Makalu La, this between C1 and C2, then from C4 to high point. French fixed no rope.

  Lavie and Van Haver mentioned that Gao Xiao-Dan may have used oxygen sleeping during the night of 30 Sept, as they saw empty oxygen bottles in it.

  Climb abandoned on 1 Oct due to exhaustion, deep snow (up to halfway between knees and hips, climb rate of 50m/h that day).

  Team left BC on 4 Oct.

  Hired: 
    [Kanchhi] Maya Tamang (wife of Pemba Dorje Sherpa), aimed to be first Nepali 
      lady to climb Makalu, up to 7650m.
    Pemba Dorje Sherpa ("speed Everest"), up to 7650m.
      Both Pemba Dorje Sherpa and his wife Maya Tamang didn't go further than C4
      after being informed by Nima Gyalzen (with Gao) the French couloir wouldn't
      be fixed. 
    Dakipa Sherpa, up to 8070m with Lavie and Van Haver.
    Kami Nuru Sherpa, up to 8100m with Lavie and Van Haver (was in front of them
       and Dakipa, putting up the tracks; when saw all 3 were descending, he
       stopped and joined them downwards).


expid: MAKA17302
peakid: MAKA
year: 2017
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Singapore
leaders: Kumaran Rasappan
sponsor: Singaporean on Makalu
approach: By helicopter to Hillary BC
bcdate: 2017-09-14
smtdate: 2017-10-01
termdate: 2017-10-04
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to lack of fixed ropes and deep snow
campsites: ABC(14/09,5700m),C1(19/09,6200m),C2(20/09,6500m),C3(29/09,7500m),C4(30/09,7650m),xxx(01/10,8300m)
agency: Ever Quest Expeditions (Sherpa Shephards pmt)
routememo:
  ABC 14/09  5700m (by heli)
  C1  19/09  6200m
  C2  20/09  6500m
  C3  29/09  7500m
  C4  30/09  7650m 
  HPt 01/10  8300m at foot of French couloir by Kumaran, Jamling Bhote, Gao Xiao-Dan 

  Climb abandoned on 1 Oct due to lack of rope, deep snow conditions.

  Team l left BC on 4 Oct (heli flights to Thyangboche, Lukla, then Ktmdu).

  Kumaran acclimatized in Khumbu (Sundar peak, Tashi Lapcha pass)

  High Point day (1 Oct): started from C4 at midnight, high point at 2:30-3 pm, back to C4 at 5:30 pm.

  Fixed rope: from C4 upwards to the glacier were fixed lines. Then fixed again up to 50m below 8300m. Then because no more fixed ropes, attempt stopped there. 

  Oxygen: From C3 to high pt to C2

  Hired (Everquest) : 
    Jamling Bhote (8300m)
    Duchung Bhote


expid: MAKA17303
peakid: MAKA
year: 2017
route1: NW Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Gao Xiao-Dan
approach: Lukla by plane, helicopter to Hillary BC
bcdate: 2017-09-14
smtdate: 2017-10-01
termdate: 2017-10-04
termnote: Abandoned at 8400m due to lack of fixed ropte
agency: Sherpa Khangri Outdoor
campsites:
  ABC(14/09,5700m),C1(18/09,6100m),C2(19/09,6600m),C3(28-29/09,7500m),C4(30/09,7700m),xxx(01/10,8400m)

routememo:
  BC  23-25/09  4700m (for rest)
  ABC 14/09  5700m
  C1  18/09  6100m
  C2  19/09  6600m
  C3  28-29/09,01/10  7500m
  C4  30/09,01/10  7700m
  Hpt 01/101  8400m, top of French corridor for Nima Gyalzen; 8300m, at footstep of
                     French corridor for Gao Xiaodan	at 1:30 pm.

  High-point day: started at midnight from C4, high point at 1:30 pm, back to C4 at 6 pm. Nima went up alone into the French couloir for fixing the rope, but he didn't have enough of it; also not enough time and no other Sherpas to help fixing. So decided to end the attempt. 

  Team left BC on 4 Oct.

  Fixed rope: everywhere except between C3 and C4

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


expid: MANA17301
peakid: MANA
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Richard Hunter
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Manaslu Expedition 2017
countries: Germany, UK
approach: Helicopter to Samagaon
bcdate: 2017-09-01
smtdate: 2017-09-18
smttime: 0945
termdate: 2017-09-21
campsites: BC(01/09,4867m),C1(06/09,5604m),C2(10/09,6336m),C3(17/09,6916m),Smt(18/09)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  BC  01/09  4847m
  C1  06/09  5604m
  C2  10/09  6336m
  C3  17/09  6916m
  Smt 18/09  by Phurba Tashi at 09:45 am, Horne at 10:30 am, Ngima Sona and Seidel 
             at 10:45 am.

  Summit team left C3 at 00:20 am. They took 3-1/2 hours to C4 (reached at 4 am) and summit at 10:30 am. Conditions good, however, as they were the first that season, Phurba was breaking trail, which was sometimes hard crust and soft ground. Good weather. Phurba Tashi fixed the final 45 metres of rope to the summit. While he was doing that the rest of the team were waiting.
   
  Phurba Tashi and Horne descended to BC, where they arrived at 7 pm. Seidel and Ngima Sona descended to C2, where they arrived at 5 pm. On 19 Sept everyone back at BC.

  Hunter reached 6500m on 10 Sept. He had circulation problems in his left arm and as he was worried about having a stroke, he abandoned the climb. Stayed at BC till the end.

  Russell Brice stayed at BC until 14 Sept; he never intended to go any farther.

  Team left by heli from Samagaon on 22 Sept.

  Fixed rope:  45m on summit by Phurba Tashi

  Oxygen: 
    Used from C2 to top to crampon point by members, C3 to top to C3 by Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Nima Sona (Ngima Sona), Phortse, 18/09/1970
    Phurba Tashi, Khumjung, 24/05/1971


expid: MANA17302
peakid: MANA
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Chhang Dawa Sherpa
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Manaslu Expedition 2017
countries: Australia, China, France, Hungary, India, Iran, Italy, Mexico, Peru, S Korea, Taiwan, USA
approach: By trekking or helicopter to Samagaon
bcdate: 2017-09-10
smtdate: 2017-09-18
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2017-10-04
campsites: BC(10/09),C1,C2,C3,Smt(18,25-28/09,01/10)
achievment: Aparna Kumar is 1st Indian woman to summit Manaslu
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Seven Summit Treks Manaslu expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-4 climbers each). Seven Summits provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  William Sayer (Australia)

  Appr:  Trekked via Larkya La
  Camps: BC(12/09,4750m),C1(15/09,5850m),C2(18/09,6300m),C3(24/09,6800m),
         C4(25/09,7400m),Smt(26/09)
  Left:  28/09 from BC and 29/09 by heli from Samagaon
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success on 26/09 at 6:45 am by Sayer and Ang Dawa.

  Summit team left C4 at 12:30 am and summited at 6:45 am, and stayed about 20 minutes on the summit. They were alone for about 5 minutes and then four other people arrived. They descended to C2, where they arrived at 5 pm. On 27 Sept to BC.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from 7200m to top to C4 by Sayer and Ang Dawa.

  Sherpa:
    Ang Dawa, Kharikhola, 18/11/84


  Mehdi Gholipour (Iran)
  Saeid Mirzaei (Iran)

  Appr:  By heli to Samagaon
  Camps: BC(12/09,4750m),C1(15/09,5800m),C2(16/09,6400m),C3(24/09,6700m),
         C4(25/09,7400m),Smt(26/09)
  Left:  28/09 by heli from BC
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Success on 26/09 at 10 am by Mirzaei.
  Oxygn: Not used, not taken.

  Mirzaei left C4 at 5 am. Straighforward climb. He reached the cornice, but stopped about 20m short of the summit as there were too many people at the end of the fixed rope. He strayed for about 5 minutes on the summit and descended to C3, where he arrived at 2 pm. On 27 Sept back at BC.

  Gholipour reached C3 on 17 Sept on the acclimatization rotation. When the team reached BC again after their rotation, Gholipour felt that he had some problems with his heart. He flew back to Kathmandu from Samagaon on 24 Sept. He was checked out, but was Ok. He left for Iran on 26 Sept.



  Aparna Kumar (India)

  Name:  Indian on Manaslu
  Appr:  By heli to Samagaon
  Camps: BC(11/09,4800m),C1(15/09,5700m),C2(22/09,6400m),C3(23/09,6800m),
         C4(24/09,7450m),Smt(25/09)
  Left:  27/09
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success on 25/09 at 10 am by Kumar and Ang Temba Sherpa

  Kumar and Ang Temba left C4 at 4:30 am, summited at 10 am, stayed 15 minutes, then descended to C2.

  Chhyo Nurbu Sherpa stopped at C3.

  Oxygen: Used from C3 to summit to C3 by Kumar and Ang Temba.


  Csaba Varga (Hungary)

  Appr:  Arughat->Samagaon
  Camps: BC(11/09,4900m),C1(13/09,5800m),C3(17/09,6800m),C4(25-26/09,7400m),
         Smt(27/09)
  Left:  29/09 to Samagaon, then by heli same day
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Success on 27/09 by Varga
  Oxygn: Not used, not taken.

  Varga started at 2:33 am from C4, summited at 9:45 am, down and rested 2-3h at C4, then back to C3 at c.7 pm. Next day went down to BC, reached at 4-5 pm.

  Accidents: light frostbite to each big fingertoe (not bad, superficial).


  Flor Graciela Cuenca Blas (Peru)

  Name:  Peruvian on Manaslu
  Hired: 0
  Oxy:   None
  Term:  Success on 28/09
  Oxygn: Not used, not taken.


  Enrico Cambini (Italy)

  Name:  Italian on Manaslu Autumn 2017
  Appr:  Heli to Samagaon
  Camps: BC(19/09,4750m),C1(21/09,5700m),C3(26/09,6800m),C4(27/09,7450m),Smt(28/09)
  Left:  Left BC on 29 Sept
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success on 28/09 at 5:15 am by Cambini and Chhepal Sherpa

  Cambini and Chhepal set out from C4 on 28 Sept at 12:57 am, summited at 5:15 am. Nice weather, cold, but not freezing. Both descended to BC arriving at 7 pm.

  Oxygen:
    From 7200m to summit to 6000m by Cambini
    From C4 to summit to C4 by Chhepal

  Sherpa:
    Chhepal, 34 yrs, ANN1 summiter


  Theo Plantier (France)
  Simon Vicent Garcia (France)
  David Henrion (France)
  Ingrid Christine Menet (France)

  Name:  French on Manaslu 2017
  Appr:  Larkya La
  Camps: BC(15/09,4750m),C1(17/09,5800m),C2(18/09,6400m),C3(25/09,6750m),
         C4(26/09,7400m),Smt(27/09)
  Left:  28/09 by heli from Samagaon
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success on 27/09 by Garcia at 7 am, Henrion at 6:43 am, Menet at 6:43 am, 
         Mingma Tenji at 6:43am

  Summit team and Plantier and Dawa Finchok left C4 at midnight. Good conditions. At about 8050m Plantier realized that his fingers felt wooden and when his Sherpa Dawa Finchok saw his fingers, they turned back to C4. Everyone else carried on. They did not go all the way to the end of the fixed ropes as the ropes were too crowded. About 20 horizontal metres to the summit (should be fine).

  They spent about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they met up with Plantier. When they realized how badly frostbitten Plantier's fingers were they descended to BC, where they arrived at about 6 pm. The following day they left BC by helicopter to Samagaon and then to Kathmandu.

  Frostbite: Plantier frostbite on right hand on two fingers; left hand on one finger; right foot on two toes.

  Oxygen:
    From 8000m to the top by Menet; from C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas; 
    Plantier from 8050m to C4.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Finchok Sherpa, Lamabagar, Dolakha, 16/07/1984
    Mingma Tenji, Makalu-5


  Lu Chung-Han (Taiwan)
  Chang Yuan-Chih (Taiwan)

  Name:  2017 Taiwanese Manaslu 8156m Expedition 2017
  Appr:  Arughat by jeep and then heli to Samagaon
  Camps: BC(10/09,4750m),C1(12/09,5550m),C2(15/09,6300m),C3(16/09,6750m),Smt(26/09)
  Left:  28/09 by heli from Samagaon
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Success by Lu at 10 am.

  On 25 Sept both climbers set out for the summit at 8:30 pm. Conditions and weather good – a bit windy. When they reached 7300m at about midnight, Chang realized he was too cold and tired and turn back to C3. Lu continued and reached just below the summit at 9:30 am and had to wait for about half an hour for the final 30 meters to the summit. He reached the end of the fixed rope at 10 am. He descended to C3 where he arrived at 4:30 pm. Chang was still there and team stayed the night. On 27 Sept both climbers to BC.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


  Hector Ponce De Leon (Mexico)
  Daniel Araiza Chavez (Mexico)
  Eduardo Saenz Aguilar-Alvarez (Mexico)
  Eduardo Saenz (Mexico)

  Appr:  Helicopter to Samagaon
  Camps: BC(13/09,4750m),C1(18/09,5800m),C2(24/09,6300m),C3(25/09,6900m),
         Smt(26/09,01/10)
  Left:  28/09 and 02/10
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success 26/09 by Eduardo Saenz Aguilar-Alvarez, Pasang Norbu at 4:45 am
         Success 01/10 by Araiza Chavez, Pemba (in 20 hours, 10 minutes) at 12:15 pm

  Saenz Aguilar-Alvarez and Pasang left C3 at 7 pm on 25 Sept. They reached C4 at 11:30 pm, stopped there for 10 minutes and continued to the summit. They spent about 5 minutes on the summit and as it was very windy, they quickly descended to BC, where they arrived at 2:30 pm.

  Saenz Eduardo reached C3 on 25 Sept. As his son and Pasang were going too fast for him, he decided to abandon his summit attempt and descended to C2, where he spent the night. On 26 Sept he descended to BC.

  Araiza Chavez and Ponce de Leon left BC at 4:05 pm on 30 Sept. They reached C1 2-1/2 hours later at 6:35 pm. They rested for 25 minutes and left C1 again at 7 pm. Another two hours to C2 (9 pm). Araiza Chavez reached C3 at 11:30 pm, Ponce de Leon reached at 11:50 pm. They had a short rest and joined Pemba, who had been waiting for them at C3 since midday. Araiza Chavez and Pemba left C3 again at 2:30 am on 1 Oct. Pemba was using oxygen. They reached C4 at 6:30 am, rested for 30 minutes and left at 7 am. They both reached the summit at 12:15 pm. 

  Ponce de Leon left C3 at 6:20 am. He reached C4 in less than four hours at about 10:20 am. When he reached 7850m at about 1:30 pm he turned back. He had been feeling weak all the time due to a stomach infection. He descended to C4 where he met up again with Araiza Chavez at about 4 pm. Pemba had already descended to C3 and Ponce de Leon and Araiza Chavez continued also to C3, where they arrived at about 6 pm. Following day from C3 to BC.

  Saenz team left BC on 28 Sept by helicopter; Araiza Chavez and Ponce de Leon left on 4 Oct.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Saenz Aguilar-Alvarez and Pasang
    Pemba used oxygen from C3 to summit to C3
    Ponce de Leon and Araiza Chavez did not use oxygen.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Nurbu, Makalu-5, 28/05/1990 
    Pemba Sherpa


  The rope-fixing team consisting of four Sherpas from Seven Summit Treks:

    Nga Tashi
    Damai Sarki
    Karma Gyalzen
    Dawa Chhiring

  They reached the summit from 10 to 10:30 am on 18 Sept. They were assisted by Phurha Tashi from the Himex team who reached the summit at 9:45 am.


expid: MANA17303
peakid: MANA
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Arnold Coster
sponsor: Arnold Coster Expeditions Manaslu 2017
countries: Australia, Belgium, China, Germany, Mexico
approach: Besisahar->Larkya La->Samagoan->BC
bcdate: 2017-09-08
smtdate: 2017-09-28
smttime: 0405
termdate: 2017-09-30
campsites: BC(08/09,4750m),C1(11/09,5750m),C2(14/09,6250m),C3(26/09,6900m),C4(27/09,7400m),Smt(28/09)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  08/09  4750m
  C1  11/09  5750m
  C2  14/09  6250m
  C3  26/09  6900m by Zhong
  C3  27/09  6900m by rest of summit team
  C4  27/09  7400m by Zhong and Nima Dorchi (rest of group did not use C4)
  Smt 28/09  by Vargas, Zydenbos, Boerwinkel, Laviziano, Kolonic, Zhong, Karma,
             Changba Sherpa, Tashi Changba, Pastemba Sherpa, Mingma {Nima?] Thinduk,
             Nima Dorji, Pasang Gyaljen (between 6 and 6:30 am), Cruz and 
             Minga Nurbu (4:05 am).

  Team (apart from Zhong, who left from C4) left C3 at 8 pm on 27 Sept. First member to reach summit was Ehrlinger at 4:05 am with Mingma Norbu. 

  Zhong and Nima Dorchi left C4 at 11 pm on 27 Sept.

  Zydenbos and Boerwinkel and Vargas descended to C2, where they arrived at 3 pm. The rest of the summit team descended to BC, where they arrived at 6:30 pm.

  Moerman turned back with Kaji Sherpa at 7800m. He was vomiting and confused. They descended to C3, where they arrived at 4 am.

  Coster reached C3 on 27 Sept. He decided to stay there to coordinate the expedition on the radio. He joined the descending summit team on their descent to BC.

  Team left BC on 30 Sept and returned to Kathmandu on 1 Oct by helicopter from Samagaon.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used Vargas from 7700m to top to C3
    From C3 to top to C3 by all other members and Sherpas
    Laviziano did not use oxygen.

  Sherpas:
    Karma Sherpa (sirdar), Balakharka, Makalu, 20/08/1986
    Mingma Nurbu Sherpa, Makalu-6, 29/01/1986
    Tashi Changba Sherpa, Makalu-5, 20/11/1996
    Tashi Sherpa, Sankhuwasabha
    Pastemba Sherpa, Sankhuwasabha
    Mingma [Nima?] Thinduk Sherpa, Makalu-9, Makalu, 18/04/1982
    Nima Dorji Sherpa, Makalu-9, 10/09/1975
    Pasang Gyaljen Sherpa, Makalu-5, 05/10/1995


expid: MANA17304
peakid: MANA
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Song Sung-Kyu
sponsor: South Korean Manaslu Expedition 2017
approach: Trekked via Larkya La
bcdate: 2017-09-14
smtdate: 2017-09-25
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2017-09-27
campsites: BC(14/09,4750m),C1(17/09,5800m),C2(19/09,6400m),C3(23/09,6700m),C4(24/09,7400m),Smt(25/09)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  14/09  4750m
  C1  17/09  5800m
  C2  19/09  6400m
  C3  23/09  6700m
  C4  24/09  7400m
  Smt 25/09  by Kwon and Pemba Thinduk Sherpa at 6 am, Ryu and Tendi Sherpa 
             at 6:30 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 1:40 am. Weather was windy, conditions good. They spent about 2 minutes on the summit and descended to BC, where they arrived at 4 pm. Ryu was a bit snowblinded and that's why they decided to go all the way to BC.

  Ahn Jae-Young reached C1 on 17 Sept. He could not cope with the altitude and abandoned the climb. 

  Ahn Soo-Kil reached C2 on 19 Sept. He could not cope with the altitude and abandoned the climb.

  Kim Jean-Woong reached C1 on 25 Sept. He went to hospital in Kathmandu on 18/09 due to altitude problems. Even though the hospital told him that he should not go back, he went back to BC on 22 Sept. On 25 Sept he reached C1 but it was clear to him that he would not go farther.

  Song Jae-Heon reached BC. He did not get to start the climb as he did not have enough time. He left BC on 20 Sept.

  Song Sung-Kyu reached BC. He decided to stay at BC to organize the expedition. 

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C4 to top to C4 by Kwon, from C3 to top to C2 by Ryu
    From C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas


expid: MANA17305
peakid: MANA
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: China
leaders: Song Yu-Jiang
sponsor: Song Manaslu Expeditions 2017
countries: USA
approach: By heli to Samagaon
bcdate: 2017-09-12
smtdate: 2017-09-26
termdate: 2017-09-29
campsites: BC(12/09,4950m),C1(18/09,5600m),C2(24/09,6300m),C3(25/09,6800m),C4(26/09,7400m),Smt(26-27/09)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Took helicopter to Samagaon on 9 Sept and stayed 3 nights for acclimatization.

  BC  12/09  4950m
  C1  18/09  5600m
  C2  24/09  6300m
  C3  25/09  6800m
  C4  26/09  7400m
  Smt 27/09  by 15 members plus 15 Sherpas except Li Tian-Shu and his Sherpa.

  On 16 Sept did a round trip to C1 from BC.
  On 19 Sept did a round trip to C2 from C1.

  Summit climb:
    23 Sept => C1
    24 Sept => C2
    25 Sept => C3
    26 Sept => C4
    27 Sept => Smt

  On summit day, team started at 11 pm (the day before); the group summited between 4 am to 6:30-7 am. On descent same day, 4 people (Ding, Hang, Hu and Wang) stopped at C2 while all others came back to BC.

  Only Li Tian-Shu didn't summit, stopping close to 8000m, feeling unconfortable with the crowded route.

  Song remained in BC.

  Helicopter from BC to KTM on the 29 of Sept. 

  Oxygen:
    From C3 to smt to C3 by members and Sherpas.


  Note: Thaneswar Guragai from Seven Summit Treks (who was at base camp) is sure that  Jiang, Guo and their two Sherpas (Ming Temba and Phurba Ongdi) summited on 26 Sept.


expid: MANA17306
peakid: MANA
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: China
leaders: Zhang Wei
sponsor: Chinese 14 Peaks Manaslu Expedition 2017
approach: Helicopter to Samagaon
bcdate: 2017-09-12
smtdate: 2017-09-25
smttime: 0750
termdate: 2017-09-27
campsites: BC(12/09,4750m),C1(15/09,5700m),C2(16/09,6200m),C3(23/09,6700m),C4(24/09,7400m),Smt(25/09)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  12/09  4750m
  C1  15/09  5700m
  C2  16/09  6200m
  C3  23/09  6700m
  C4  24/09  7400m
  Smt 25/09  by Qu and Tenji at 7:50 am, Yang and Kasang Dawa at 9 am, He Jing 
             (no O2) and Lakpa at 10:30 am, Li Hai-Ying and Walung Dorje at 9:10 am,
             Ren and Ang Dawa at 7:50 am, Xu and Chamba at 9 am, Long and Pasang 
             Dawa at 9:30 am, Ge and Da Furi at 9:30 am.

  Summit team left C4 between 3 and 3:30 am. Conditions and weather very good. They reached the end of the fixed rope. 

  Ren skied down from the summit to C4 and in parts down to C2. He descended to BC the same day, where he arrived at 7 pm. Qu, Li Hai-Ying, Xu and Long descended to BC, where they arrived between 7 pm and 9:30 pm. Ge, Yang and He descended to C2, where they arrived at 4 pm. 

  Xu Min reached about 7000m on 24 Sept. He was not feeling well and descended to BC (with Nima Sherpa).

  Li Hua-Xiong reached 7600m on 25 Sept. He was not feeling good and descended to BC (with Danuru Sherpa).

  Zhang Wei stayed at BC. He never intended to climb.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by all members except for He Jing, who
      summited without oxygen
    Sherpas from C4 to top to C4.


expid: MANA17307
peakid: MANA
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Richard Bolt
sponsor: Kobler & Parter Manaslu Expedition 2017
countries: Andorra, Czech Republic, Germany, Poland
approach: Trekked via Larkya La
bcdate: 2017-09-05
smtdate: 2017-09-25
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2017-09-28
campsites: BC(05/09,4750m),C1(11/09,5800m),C3(14/09,6800m),C4(24/09,7400m),Smt(25/09)
agency: Himalaya Vision (former Active Holiday Nepal)
routememo:
  BC  05/09  4750m
  C1  11/09  5800m
  C2   --     --
  C3  14/09  6800m
  C4  24/09  7400m
  Smt 25/09  Bolt at 9;30 am, Konrad Gasser, Daniel Gasser, Marganski, Miesch,
             Kusang Tenzing, Sonam and Chhewang Rinji at 11;30 am.

  Summit team and Winistoerfer and Roth left C4 at 5:15 am. Conditions good, bit windy. At about 7600m Winistoerfer and Roth turned back due to fatigue and both had a slight cold. They both descended to BC the same day. The rest of the team reached the summit and spent about 20 minutes there. Gasser's (Konrad and Daniel) descended to C1, where they arrived at 6:15 pm. Marganski, Miesch, Sonam and Rinji descended to C3. Bolt and Kusang descended to BC and arrived in time for dinner. 

  Babot Portell reached 5200m on 11 Sept. She abandoned expedition due to health problems.

  Kolouch reached 6400m on 14 Sept. He was not fit enough and too slow to carry on.

  Meyer reached 7200m on 24 Sept. He struggled with the altitude and abandoned expedition.

  Rapp reached 6800m on 14 Sept. He had sprained his ankle on the way up and the pain was too much.

  Ruprecht reached 7200m on 24 Sept. He was struggling with the altitude and turned back.

  Team left BC on 28 Sept by heli.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used by Marganski from 7300m to top to C4; everybody else no O2.


expid: MANA17308
peakid: MANA
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Fuller
sponsor: SummitClimb Manaslu Expedition 2017
countries: Australia, Canada, Finland, Germany, Spain, Sweden, UK
approach: Trekked via Larkya La
bcdate: 2017-09-08
smtdate: 2017-09-27
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2017-09-30
campsites: BC(009,4750m),C1(12/09,5700m),C2(14/09,6350m),C3(25/09,6900m),C4(26/09,7400m),Smt(27/09)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  BC  08/09  4750m
  C1  12/09  5700m
  C2  14/09  6350m
  C3  25/09  6900m
  C4  26/09  7400m		
  Smt 27/09  all members (apart from Maczuga), Jangbu, Tenji, Gyalzen, Ang Dorje, 
             Ang Pasang between 6:30 am and 8 am.

  On summit push team left C4 between 1 am and 2 am. Straightforward climb. Fuller spent about half an hour on the summit to wait for his clients. They (apart from Fuller and Nystrom) descended to C2. Fuller and Nystrom reached BC at 2:30 pm.

  Maczuga reached BC on 8 Sept and left on 10 Sept due to personal reasons.

  Team left BC on 30 Sept and trekked to Arughat.
  	
  Oxygen:
    Taken and used by all members apart from De Rivas Pou and Volski from C3 to top
      to C3 by members; from C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas 
    Volski used oxygen for the first hour out of C4 to warm up
    Aleix de Rivas Pou did not use oxygen.


expid: MANA17309
peakid: MANA
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Dean Staples
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Manaslu Expedition 2017
countries: Australia, Germany, USA
approach: Helicopter to Samagaon
bcdate: 2017-09-11
smtdate: 2017-10-04
smttime: 0530
termdate: 2017-10-06
campsites: BC(11/09,4750m),C1(16/09,5773m),C2(24/09,6323m),C3(25/09,6801m),C4(02/10,7400m),Smt(04/10)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  10/09  4750m
  C1  16/09  5773m
  C2  24/09  6323m
  C3  25/09  6801m
  C4  02/10  7400m
  Smt 04/10  by Lawrie, Rinji at 5:30 am, Ayvazian, Namgya, Nima Tshering at 6 am,
             Staples, Hazledine, Lakpa Dorje, Pemba at 6:45 am.

  Initially team intended to summit on 3 Oct; however, the weather was bad so they decided to stay at C4 for another night. They left at about 10 pm on 3 Oct. Straightforward climb. After summit all Sherpa and Lawrie descended to BC, all other clients to C2, where they stayed the night. All down at BC on 5 Oct.

  Schneider reached C2 on 25 Sept. After this first rotation she stayed at BC due to a bad cough.

  Left BC on 6 Oct, arrived Kathmandu 7 Oct by helicopter from Samagaon.
  	
  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C2 to top to C2 by Ayvazian, 
    C3 to top to C3 by Staples and Hazledine, 
    C4 to top to C4 by all Sherpas (apart from Pemba Prakash) and Lawrie.
    Pemba Prakash did not use oxygen.


  Route details take from Adventure Consultants website:

  11/09 - Arrival at BC
  12/09 - Glacier walk to 5175m
  15/09 - Day trip to C1 (5600m)
  16/09 - Team slept at C1
  18/09 - Team went to C2 (6250m) and returned to C1
  19/09 - Team returned to BC
  20/09 - Rest day at BC
  21/09 - Rest day at BC (rain day)
  22/09 - Rest day at BC (rain day)
  23/09 - Team went up to C1
  25/09 - Team went up to C2 (slept there)
  26/09 - Team returned to BC
  27/09 - Rest day at BC
  28/09 - Rest day at BC
  29/09 - Team went up to C1 for summit push
  30/09 - Team went up to C2
  01/10 - Team went up to C3
  02/10 - Team went up to C4
  03/10 - Team holding at C4 for high winds to die down
  04/10 - Team summited
  05/10 - Team returned to BC
  06/10 - Team departed BC


expid: MANA17310
peakid: MANA
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: Russia
leaders: Ivan Aristov, Chatur Tamang
sponsor: Makalu Extreme International Manaslu 2017
countries: Bulgaria, China, Kazakhstan, Nepal, Ukraine
approach: Trekked via Larkya La
bcdate: 2017-09-13
smtdate: 2017-09-20
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2017-09-29
campsites: BC(13/09,4750m),C1(16/09,5600m),C2(17/09,6250m),C3(18/09,6900m),C4(19/09,7400m),Smt(20,24,26-27/09)
agency: Makalu Extreme Treks
routememo:
  BC  13/09  4750m
  C1  16/09  5600m
  C2  17/09  6250m
  C3  18/09  6900m
  C4  19/09  7400m
  Smt 20/09  by Chatur Tamang and Akkaev at 7:30 am
  Smt 24/09  by Lhakpa Nuru, Lhakpa Gyalgen, Morneva, Lhakpa Tsheri and 
             Pasang Tendi at 9 am
  Smt 26/09  by Aristov, Dolgov, Glushkov, Chermov, Dergachev, Panov, Afanasiev,
             Eliseev, Pugovkin, Lazo, Zadokhin, Roshko, Tomov, Danyalov, Chao,
             Necheporenko and Kadoshnikov at 9 am
  Smt 27/09  by Pasang and Sukhanov at 4 am, Pasang Chhiri, Nosa, Pozdnii and 
             Pavlov at 9:30 am.

  Summit 20/09:
  Left C4 at 12:30 am. They were alone. They spent about 1 hour on the summit, then descended to C1, where they arrived at 3:30 pm.

  Summit 24/09:
  Left C4 at 11 pm on 23/09. The snow was deep. Lhakpa Gyalgen did most of the trail breaking. They had to pull out the fixed rope as it was buried in deep snow. They spent about 10 minutes on the summit. It was very windy. They descended to C3, where they arrived at 5 pm. Morneva suffered from slight HAPE. She was very tired and injected some Dexamethasone which made her feel better immediately. On 25/09, they descended to BC. 

  Summit 26/09:
  Left C3 at 11 pm on 25/09. They spent about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to C3, where they arrived at around 3 pm.

  Summit 27/09:
  Sukhanov, Nosa, Pasang Tshering and Pasang left C3 at 7 pm on 26/09. Pozdnii and Pavlov left C4 at midnight. It was cold. Nosa had started without oxygen, however, it got too cold and he put on oxygen at C4. His feet were very cold and he stopped between C4 and the summit for two hours to warm up, which was probably a bad idea. They descended to C3. Nosa and Sukhanov descended to BC. Sukhanov reached 3 pm, Nosa at about 7 pm. Nosa has suffered severe frostbite on both feet.

  No summits:
    Popenyshev reached C3 (not feeling well)
    Skvortsov reached C3 (not feeling well)
    Baranov reached C3 (stomach infection)
    Romanov reached C3 (not feeling well)
    Krut reached C3 (unable to sleep and abandoned expedition)
    Demenko reached C3 (high altitude problems)
    Prilepa reached C2 (suffered from high blood pressure)
    Kondrakov reached C3 (too tired)
    Sukhanova did not intend to climb (not on permit)
  	
  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members and Sherpas apart from those 
      listed below
    Nosa intended to climb without oxygen, but started at C4 as he had frostbite
      on his fingers (C4 to top to C3)
    No Oxygen:
      Airstov, Eliseev, Pugovkin, Lazo, Roshkov, Tomov, Danyalov, Ma Chao, 
      Necheporenko, Kadoshnikov, Puzdnij, Pavlov

  Frostbite:
    Nosa frostbite on both feet
    Necheporenko frostbite on both thumbs

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Tendi, Yilajung, 30/07/1988
    Lhakpa Nuru, Thami, 22/11/1980
    Lhakpa Gyalzen, Thami, 31/08/1982
    Lhakpa Tshering, Phurte, 16/02/1991
    Pasang Sherpa, Lelep-8, Gyabla, Taplejung, 27/04/1978
    Pasang Chhiri, Namche, 22/08/1993

  Expedition was divided into two groups:

  Group 1:                   Group 2:
    Ivan Aristov (Leader)      Oxana Morneva (Leader)
    Nikolai Kadoshnikov        Ivan Tomov
    Yuri Panov                 Taras Pozdnii
    Igor Popenyshev            Chao Ma
    Nikolai Skyortsov          Oleksandr Pavlov
    Andrei Glushkov            Iurii Sukhanov
    Sergey Baranov             Polina Sukhanova
    Alexander Eliseev          Valdimir Zadoknin
    Igor Romanov               Asset Danyalov
    Oleg Afanasiev             Vitalii Lazo
    Andrei Dergachev           Anton Pugovkin
    Viacheslav Krut            Aznaur Akkaev
    Roman Demenko              Dmytro Necheporenko
    Pavel Chernov              Volodymir Roshko
    Evgenii Prilepa            Yaroslav Nosa
    Gennady Dolgov             Oleg Kondrakov


expid: MANA17311
peakid: MANA
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: China
leaders: Luo Biao
sponsor: Chinese Manaslu Expedition 2017
countries: Nepal
approach: Trekked via Larkya La
bcdate: 2017-09-11
smtdate: 2017-09-27
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2017-09-29
campsites: BC(11/09,4700m),C1(15/09,5600m),C2(18/09,6300m),C3(25/09,6800m),C4(26/09,7400m),Smt(27/09)
agency: Kaitu Expeditions (Nima Namgyal), Dreamers Dest
routememo:
  BC  11/09  4700m
  C1  15,17/09  5600m
  C2  18/09  6300m
  C3  25/09  6800m
  C4  26/09  7400m
  Smt 27/09  by all members plus 9 Sherpas.

  Team left C4 at 1:30 am from C4, summited at 7 am and back to C2 at 3 pm.

  Team left BC on 29 Sept (heli from Samagaon to Ktm same day).

  Oxygen: 
    From C4 to smt to C4 by all members (except Chen Tao) and Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Dr Nima (BC only), Khumjung,  08/08/1983
    Nima Tenji, Rolwaling, Beding, 24/08/1980
    Nima Gyalgen Rolwaling
    Pema Chhiring, Rolwaling
    Mingma Chhiri, Rolwaling
    Dawa Tashi, Rolwaling
    Shera Gyalgen, Khumjung
    Nawang Tenzing, Phortse
    Phura Tseten, Phortse
    Sangye Dorji, Khumjung


expid: MANA17313
peakid: MANA
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: China
leaders: Zhang Bao-Long
sponsor: Summit Experience Chinese Manaslu Expedition 2017
approach: Helicopter to Samagaon
bcdate: 2017-09-09
smtdate: 2017-09-26
smttime: 0647
termdate: 2017-09-29
campsites: BC(09/09,4750m),C1(13/09,5700m),C2(17/09,6300m),C3(24/09,6800m),C4(25/09,7400m),Smt(26-27)
agency: Sherpa Khangri Outdoor
routememo:
  BC  09/09  4750m
  C1  13/09  5700m
  C2  17/09  6300m
  C3  24/09  6800m
  C4  25/09  7400m
  Smt 26/09  by Zhang, Luo, Sanje Sherpa at 6:47 am
  Smt 27/09  by Zhang (again and w/o oxygen from C4) at 6:10 am, Yang at 6:10 am, 
             Chen at 5:30 am, Sun at 5:30 am, Ding at 5:20 am, Kaji Sherpa at
             5:30 am, Sona Sherpa, Lakpa Sherpa at 5:20 am, Chhiring Sherpa at 
             5:30 am, Sangde Sherpa at 6:10 am.

  26 Sept summit team left C4 at 2:40 am. Weather was good but windy. They spent about 15 minutes on the summit and descended. Zhang descended to C4, where he arrived at 8:40 am; Luo and Sanje descended to BC, where they arrived at 5:40 pm.

  27 Sept summit team left C4 at 1 am. Many people on the route. Everyone reached the end of the fixed ropes; however, Zhang stopped about 10m below the summit as there were too many people on the route and he thought it was too dangerous. Team descended to C2, where they arrived between 11 am and 4 pm. Everyone to BC on 28 Sept.

  Left BC on 29 Sept by helicopter from BC.
  	
  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 for all members apart from Zhang
    (on 1st summit he started at C4 to top and no O2 for descent); Yang from
    C3 to top to C2; Sherpas from C4 to top to C4

    For Zhang's 2nd ascent on 27 Sept, he did NOT use oxygen.


expid: MANA17314
peakid: MANA
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: China
leaders: Gao Xiao-Dan
sponsor: Sherpa Kangri Makalu-Manaslu Expedition 2017
approach: Helicopter to Samagaon
bcdate: 2017-10-11
smtdate: 2017-10-19
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2017-10-20
campsites: BC(),C1(),C2(),C3(),C4(),Smt(19/10)
agency: Sherpa Khangri Outdoor
routememo:
  BC  11/10  4700m
  C1  15/10  5800m
  C2  16/10  6200m
  C3  17/10  6600m
  C4  18/10  7300m
  Smt 19/10  by Gao Xiao-Dan, Nima Gyalzen, Lakpa Chhiri at 8:30 am.

  Team faced a lot of snowfall. A large part of the fixed ropes were completely buried under the snow, team had a hard time digging out the ropes and had to fix new ropes themselves at some parts. They ascended quickly, Nima and Gao were well acclimatized as they have been to Makalu just before. Summit day started at 1 am, summit at 8:30 am and back to C4 at 11 am. They stayed on the summit for 30 minutes, strong winds on the top, but beautiful views. 

  Oxygen: taken by Lakpa Chhiri from C4 to summit and back to C4.

  On 19 Oct Lakpa Chhiri got AMS on descent from summit to C4. Two Sherpas ascended from C3 to rescue him and brought him down to C3. From there he and the rest of the team were evacuated by helicopter to KTM on 20 Oct. He's in Grande Hospital now undergoing treatment. He is expected to recover fully within a few days.

  Fixed rope: intermittent on whole route.

  Sherpas: 
    Nima Gyalzen (director of Sherpa Kangri)
    Lakpa Chhiri, Dolakha, 14/10/1984


expid: MANA17315
peakid: MANA
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: India
leaders: Umesh Zirpe
sponsor: Giripremi Manaslu Expedition 2017
countries: Nepal
approach: Trekked via Larkya La
bcdate: 2017-09-13
smtdate: 2017-09-26
smttime: 0400
termdate: 2017-09-27
campsites: BC(13/09,4750m),C1(16/09,5580m),C2(17/09,6200m),C3(24/09,6700m),C4(25/09,7400m),Smt(26/09)
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  BC  13/09  4750m
  C1  16/09  5580m
  C2  17/09  6200m
  C3  24/09  6700m
  C4  25/09  7400m
  Smt 26/09  by Patke, Mingma Thindu Sherpa, Tenzing Sherpa, Dikki Sherpa, Phurba
             Dorchi at 4:30 am, Mane and Dorchi Sherpa at 4 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 12:30 am. They stayed about half an hour on the summit to wait for the light to come. Mane and Dorchi Sherpa descended to BC, where they arrived at 2 pm. The rest of the team arrived at BC at 4 pm. Straightforward climb.

  Zirpe reached C1 on 16 Sept. He was never intending to climb as he was leading the expedition.

  Team left BC 27 Sept by helicopter.
  	
  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members and Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Dorchi Sherpa, Walung, Makalu, 01/12/1979
    Tenzing Sherpa, Makalu-9, 25/11/1978
    Phurba Dorchi, Makalu-5, 28/01/1985
    Mingma Thindu Sherpa (was on Lhotse rope-fixing team in spring 2016 and 2017
      with Seven Summit Treks)


expid: MANA17316
peakid: MANA
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Luis Stitzinger
sponsor: Amical Alpin Manaslu Expedition 2017
countries: Austria
approach: Trekked via Larkya La
bcdate: 2017-09-10
smtdate: 2017-09-30
smttime: 1245
termdate: 2017-10-03
campsites: BC(10/09,4850m),C1(16/09,5600m),C2(21/09,6300m),C3(22/09,6720m),C4(29/09,7400m),Smt(30/09)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  10/09  4850m
  C1  16/09  5600m
  C2  21/09  6300m
  C3  22/09  6720m
  C4  29/09  7400m
  Smt 30/09  by Weinand, Klocke, Weissengruber, Herndl, Taubmann, von Melle, 
             Stitzinger, Pema and Jangbu at 12:45 pm.

  Summit team and Lhakpa left C4 at 4:30 am. There were seven other people on the route. Straightforward climb. They stayed about 45 minutes to an hour on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 4 pm. Lhakpa Sherpa had cold hands and turned back at around 7800m and descended to C4.

  On 1 Oct, everyone apart from Stitzinger and Schumann back to BC. Schumann was feeling very exhausted and Stitzinger and Schumann slept at C1.

  Stummer-Jovanvic and Strohhaeusl reached BC. They were suffering from the flu (it had spread through the hole team). They left BC on 13 Sept.

  Selig to C1. He suffered from the same flu and abandoned the expedition.

  Bogenschuetz and Metzler to C2. Metzler also had the flu and Bogenschuetz had to leave the expedition due to personal reasons.

  Grabner and Schumann to C4. Grabner had lost his motivation and Schumann was too exhausted to carry on. 

  Team left BC on 3 Oct; 5 Oct by helicopter from Samagaon.

  Oxygen: 
    Not taken, not used by any members (except Schumann)
    Schumann from C3 to C2 on the descent due to exhaustion.

  Sherpas:
    Pema Nuru (Paiya, Jubing-7, 27/01/1975
    Jangbu Sherpa, Kharikhola, 10/09/1979
    Lhakpa Sherpa (Pema Nuru’s nephew)


expid: MANA17317
peakid: MANA
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Sergio Ruedas
sponsor: Spanish Manaslu Expedition 2017
approach: Trekked via Larkya La
bcdate: 2017-09-17
smtdate: 2017-10-08
termdate: 2017-10-10
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to high winds and exhaustion
campsites: BC(17/09,4750m),C1(19/09,5800m),C2(24/09,6300m),C3(02/10,6800m),xxx(08/10,7700m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  17/09  4750m
  C1  19/09  5800m
  C2  24/09  6300m
  C3  02/10  6800m
  HPt 08/10  7700m by all members.

  High point team started from C3 on 7 Oct at 8 pm. When they reached 7700m at 4:30 am they decided to turn back due to too much wind and all members felt very tired. They descended all the way to BC, where they arrived at around midday.

  Team left BC on 10 Oct.
  	
  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


expid: MANA17318
peakid: MANA
year: 2017
route1: NE Face
nation: Poland
leaders: Ryszard Pawlowski
sponsor: Patagonia Mountain Agency (PMA) Manaslu Expedition 2017
approach: Trekked via Larkya La
bcdate: 2017-09-05
smtdate: 2017-09-26
smttime: 0750
termdate: 2017-09-29
campsites: BC(05/09,4750m),C1(10/09,5600m),C2(16/09,6250m),C3(24/09,6900m),C4(25/09,7400m),Smt(26-27/09)
agency: Climbalaya
routememo:
  BC  05/09  4750m
  C1  10/09  5600m
  C2  16/09  6250m
  C3  24/09  6900m
  C4  25/09  7400m
  Smt 26/09  by Calka, Plewa, Somerlik, Nima, Lhakpa Nuru and Kami Rita at 7:50 am
  Smt 27/09  by Pawlowski, Lhakpa Nuru (again from C4) at 7:20 am.

  26 Sept summit team and Pawlowski left C4 at 4 am. Pawlowski had a problem with his oxygen mask and turned back after about 100m to C4. Rest of the team carried on. Straightforward climb. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit. Calka, Plewa, Somerlik, Nima Sherpa descended to BC, where they arrived at 5 pm. Lhakpa Sherpa stayed at C4 with Pawlowski.

  27 Sept summit team left C4 at 3 am. They spent about about 10 minutes on the summit (it was very busy) and descended to BC, where they arrived at 6 pm.

  Nowicki reached C3 on 17 Sept. He had some breathing problems and left BC on 19 Sept.

  Sladek reached C1 on 10 Sept. He got the flu and left BC on 19 Sept.

  Smich reached C1 on 10 Sept. He was physically not fit enough and left BC on 19 Sept.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C4 to top to C4 by all members and Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Nuru, Phortse, 18/06/1980
    Kami Rita, Thami, 23/08/1976 (Brother of Lhakpa Rita)


