# exped

expid: DHA111106
peakid: DHA1
year: 2011
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Mario Merelli
sponsor: Italian Expedition to Dhaulagiri I
approach: Beni->Babichaur->Dharapani->Mudi->Boghara->Darbang->Pine Forest
bcdate: 2011-04-14
smtdate: 2011-05-15
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2011-05-17
campsites: BC(14/04,4600m),ABC(24/04,5635m),C1(12/05),C2(05/05,6600m),C3(13/05,7200m),Smt(15/05)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Merelli and Zaffaroni started from C3 at 4 am. Merelli climbed the couloir and turned left. The weather was very bad, it was total white-out. Merelli walked toward summit for about 20 minutes and reached the summit. He did not check the time, but estimated time was around 1:30 pm. He said that when returning to C3 he met Zaffaroni at about 8250m around 2 pm. Both got to C3 between 4-4:40 pm. They spent the night there. Next day 16 May both of them descended to BC.


  Vivian Callahan - 8 June 2017

  Hi Billie, I'm writing you for two reasons. First one is that when I was to Himalaya Dhaulagiri expedition in 2011 we are close to Italian team, Mario Merelli and Marco [Zaffaroni]. We are on pretty similar schedule so we try summit attempt the same day and similar time. Probably they started a little bit later than us. But in some point when the fixed rope was over, we continued at the same time; because they don't carry any rope with them, so they used our rope too.

  The weather started getting bad and cloudy with not too much visibility and the GPS getting crazy gave us the altitude of the last camp even we know that we are approx 8000 meters because the Sherpa of Korean expedition was on the mountain before.
  In this moment we decided to comeback and Mario continued alone for no more longer that 10 min and came back because he didn't have rope so used our rope again for to go down.

  Finnaly  when we arrived in Kathmandu I knew that he said that was summit in Dhaulagiri. That was not true and impossible for my perspective to get the top from this point where we were, even if he ran it is completely impossible to cover the distance of 168m left in 10 min at this altitude.

  So I write right now because at the beginning I don't speak English really well and I feel bad to betray them. Now I'm older and I don't feel bad tell you which was the truth.


expid: DHA111301
peakid: DHA1
year: 2011
route1: E Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Katsuhito Fujikawa
sponsor: Team Fujikawa Dhaulagiri I Expedition 2011
bcdate: 2011-09-14
smtdate: 2011-09-22
termdate: 2011-09-25
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to snowblindess
campsites: BC(14/09),C1(19/09,5800m),xxx(22/09,6800m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC arrival 14 Sept
  C1 (5800m) stayed 19 Sept and returned to BC 20 Sept
  22 Sept attack, but returned to BC on 24th. 

  Reached 6800m but suffered from snowblindness and decided to abandon.


expid: DHA111302
peakid: DHA1
year: 2011
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Guido Riemenschneider, Beat Zahnd
countries: Switzerland
approach: Beni->Tatopani->Marpha->Yak Kharka->Dhampus BC->Hidden Valley
bcdate: 2011-09-16
smtdate: 2011-09-21
termdate: 2011-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to deep snow, danger of avalanche
campsites: BC(16/09,4750m),C1(20/09,5800m),xxx(21/09,6700m)
agency: Ramdung Expedition
routememo:
  Both members Riemenschneider and Zahnd and Domi Sherpa reached 6700m on 21st during their acclimatization. They gave up summit bid due to chest-deep snow and danger of avalanches.

  Sherpa:
    Domi Sherpa, 03/04/1980 (1/12/2036), Garma-8, Solu


expid: EVER11176
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Dipankar Ghosh
sponsor: West Bengal Mt. Everest Expedition 2011
approach: Lukla->Namche->Dingboche->Dugla->Lobuche
bcdate: 2011-04-12
smtdate: 2011-05-21
smttime: 1020
termdate: 2011-05-25
campsites: BC(12/04,5300m),C1(24/04,6000m),C2(30/04,6600m),C3(02/05,7200m),C4(20/05,8000m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Loben Expeditions
routememo:
  The two-member Indian expedition from Kolkata (Bhattacharya and Ghosh) left C4 at 9 pm of 20 May along with two climbing Sherpas (Phurba and Karma) for summit. The Kolkata team reached summit at 10:20 am on 21 May, stayed on summit for about an hour, then descended to C4 at 3:30 pm and spent the night there. Next day 22 May the team slept at C2 and the following day 23 May went down to BC. Summit day weather, clear sky no wind.

  Sherpas:
    Phurba Gyalje, 31/8/78 (2035/5/15), Makalu-9
    Karma Gelje, 04/02/76 (2032/10/21), Bung-9


expid: EVER11177
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Richa Sheokand
sponsor: An Indian Women on Everest
approach: Lukla->Namche->Tengboche->Debuche->Pheriche->Lobuche
bcdate: 2011-04-13
smtdate: 2011-05-18
smttime: 0530
campsites: BC(13/04,5400m),C1(29/04,6000m),C2(01/05,6400m),C3(09/05,7000m),C4(7950m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Sheokand said that she and her climbing Sherpa Ang Dawa left C4 at 6 pm on 13 May and reached summit [on 14 May] for about 15 minutes. They got back to C4 between 9-10 pm. Next day 15 May went down to C2 and continued to BC where they arrived between 11-12 pm. Sheokand showed me the photograph of summit, but was not in the photograph. She was trying to get her summit certificate from the Ministry, but the Ministry refused the demand. 

  Jeevan talked to Ang Dawa few days later to verify Sheokand's claim. Ang Dawa said that she could not go beyond C3. She spend two days at C2 and went down to BC on 15 May. 

  Ang Dawa went back to C2 on 16 May to clear her camp. He joined the civil servants summit team and got to the top on 18 May at 5:30 am. He got back to BC on same day. I also talked to Arjun Vajpai who was on Lhotse. He said that Sheokand did not go beyond C3.

  Sheokand told me that she took 24 hours to cross Icefall.

  Sherpa:
    Ang Dawa, 7/2/78 (25/10/2034), Makalu-5, Sedua


expid: EVER11178
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Narendra Kumar Dahiya
sponsor: Indian Air Force Women Mt. Everest Expedition 2011
approach: Lukla->Namche->Tengboche->Dingboche->Lobuche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2011-04-24
smtdate: 2011-05-21
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2011-05-29
campsites: BC(24/04,5400m),C1(06/05,6100m),C2(07/05,6300m),C3(19/05,6800m),C4(20/05,7950m),Smt(21,25/05)
agency: Rimo Expeditions
routememo:
  Nivedita Chaudhary, Narendra Dahiya and Raju Sindhu together with four Sherpas Pasang Lama, Dawa Gelu, Pemba Nurbu and Danuru started from C4 at 22:00 hours on 20 May. Narendra Dahiya turned around from 8100m at 11 pm due to bad cough and reached C4 at 11:30 pm. Nivedita Chaudhary and two Sherpas got to the top at 10:00 hours on 21 May. Raju Sindhu and two Sherpas reached the summit at 11:00 hours. They stayed on the summit for 15 minutes and descended to C4 at 16:30 hours. The summiters spent night at C4. Next day 22 May went down to C2 and the following day two summiters to BC. The summit push night was little windy, but rest of the time it was clear.

  Second summit push of the expedition started on 24 May with five members, namely Panda, Ms. Pandey, Pokhariya, Sharma, Singh, Densa Bhote, Mingma Temba, Pemba Ongdi, Samgel, Ang Dorji, Phurba, Pemba Tenzing Lama and Lhakpa Tashi at 19:00 hrs. All five members and eight Sherpas got to the top at 11:00 hours on 25 May. They stayed on summit for 45 minutes then got to C4 at 17:30 hours. Next day 26 May all went down to C2 and the following day to BC. The weather was good on the summit day.

  High points for other members:

  Aswal, Dr. Behera, Ms Desai and Menon stayed at BC.

  Joshi and Ms. Mehra spent a night at C1 on 6 May; both suffered from throat problem.

  Ms. Mishra first went up to C2 on 7 May and on 18 May on summit push; she suffered from fever.

  Ms. Rani spent two nights at C2 on 23 May suffered from cough and she was exhausted.

  Ms. Rao spent two nights at C2 on 23 May; her hands got cold.

  Sekar spent night at 5900m on 6 May; he suffered from HAS, vomit headache; body did not adopt well to high altitude.

  Vyas slept two nights at C2 on 18 May; he got throat problem.

  Left BC:

  Joshi and Ms. Mehra spent night at C1 on 6 May. Both suffered from throat problem and left BC on 16 May and coordinated with the team from Kathmandu.

  Ms. Balasubramani, Sekar and Sindhu left BC on 27 May.

  Panda left BC on 28 May by helicopter due to 2nd-degree frostbite of all toes of right foot. Behera and Singh accompanied Panda.

  Hired:
    Pasang Lama Bhote, 17/10/84, Hatiya-1, Everest X2, Lhotse X2
    Dawa Gelu Sherpa, 18/1/73 (5/10/2029), Makalu-4, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2
    Pemba Nurbu Sherpa, 21/1/1979 (7/10/2035), Makalu-4
    Danuru Sherpa, 24/11/1978 (9/8/2035), Domane-9, Bhojpur
    Pemba/Pimba Tenzing Lama, 10/12/1986 (25/08/2043), Hatiya-3
    Lhakpa Tashi, 25/9/1986 (9/6/2042), Hatiya-3
    Samgel, Sherpa, 25/9/1986 (15/12/2028), Makalu-9
    Ang Dorji Sherpa, 22/4/77 (10/1/2034), Makalu-2
    Mingma Temba Sherpa, 19/1/80 (5/10/2036), Yaphu-9, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1
    Pemba Ongdi Sherpa, 29/11/1987 (13/8/2044), Yaphu-9
    Densa Bhote, 30/10/1981 (14/7/2038), Hungung, Hatiya-1, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X1


expid: EVER11179
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jerome Brisebourg
sponsor: Expes.com Everest Expedition 2011
countries: Switzerland
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2011-04-17
smtdate: 2011-05-21
smttime: 0330
termdate: 2011-05-22
campsites: BC(17/04,5200m),ABC(23/04,6400m),C1(25/04,7100m),C2(19/05,7700m),C3(20/05,8300m),Smt(21/05)
accidents: Brisebourg got minor frostbite on one toe Jaccard and Morschel frostbite fingers in both hands
agency: Expes.com Treks
routememo:
  Bremond, Brisebourg, Jaccard, Morschel, Ang Pemba, Pechhumbe and Ang Sona started their summit bid from C3 at 8 pm NST on 20 May. They got to the top at 3:30 am of 21 May. They stayed on summit for 10 minutes and descended to C3 where they arrived at 7 am. Bremond, Brisebourg and Jaccard went down to ABC where they arrived between 4 to 5 pm. Morschel slept at C2 and next day to ABC. The weather at the beginning was very windy and in the morning it was good. Between 30 to 40 climbers summited on that day.

  On 21 May Defontaines and Gyalzen left C3 for summit at 6 am they got to 8615m at around 9 am and turned around to C3 where they got around 10:30 am. Similarly, Veronese and Phur Jangbu left C3 at 8:30 am on 21 May. They turned around from 8550m to C3. Defontaines, Gyalzen, Veronese and Phuru Jangbu went down to ABC same day. 

  Ricard climbed up to 7700m (C2) on 29 April, but she did not sleep there.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Pemba, 1/10/1984, Yilajung, Khumbu, Everest X2
    Pechhumbe, 22/9/1987, Tashigaon, Makalu-5, Everest X2
    Pasang Sona, (aka Ang Sona) 21/7/1977, Thami
    Gelje, 26/9/77, Kagani-8, Okhaldhunga, Everest 22/5/2008
    Phura Jangbu, 16/4/82, Tesho, Khumbu,  Everest 23/5/2010


expid: EVER11180
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Urs Bernhard
sponsor: Swiss & American to Everest
countries: USA
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2011-04-14
smtdate: 2011-05-20
termdate: 2011-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 8600m due to bad weather, too many climbers
campsites: BC(14/04,5200m),ABC(20/04,6400m),C1(26/04,7060m),C2(19/05,7900m),xxx(20/05,8600m)
agency: World Records Expeditions
routememo:
  Bernhard and Lhakpa Gelu left Camp 2.5 (7900m) at 8 pm on 19 May towards the summit.  When they arrived at 8600m at about 4:45 am NST on 20 May, at that point Lhakpa Gelu told Bernhard that they have to stop there as weather is getting bad and they will not have enough time to go to the summit and to return in time because there were many climbers ahead of them. While turning back indeed cloud started covering the ridge and became white-out. They reached Camp 2.5 around 6:30 am and it was difficult to get there. 

  Keogh left (BC) expedition on 29 April as his hands were getting very cold and also had low grade fever associated with dry cough.


expid: EVER11181
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Sharada Kumari Rayamajhi
sponsor: Global Peace Initiative from the Highest Peak of the World
approach: Lukla->Namche->Debuche->Dingboche->Lobuche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2011-05-02
smtdate: 2011-05-24
termdate: 2011-05-29
termnote: Abandoned at 8400m? due to exhaustion
campsites: BC(02/05,5400m),C1(12/05,6100m),C2(21/05,6500m),C3(22/05,7100m),C4(23/05,7900m),xxx(24/05,8400m?)
accidents: Pain in right side of head of Rayamajhi in C2
agency: Churen Himal Treks
routememo:
  Rayamajhi said she along with Santa Bahadur and Pur Bahadur left C4 South Col at 7 pm for the summit. After climbing many hours, her climbing guide, Pur Bahadur, told her that they had reached the summit. She does not know how many hours she had climbed and the time at which she reached to the top. She could not tell how the place looked as it was dark. She does not remember if she saw people coming up or going down. The team returned to C4 in dark and slept there. She does not know the time they reached C4. When she woke up, she said, it was already bright daylight. They went down to C3 on 25 May and C2 on 26 May; they had spent one night in each camp. On 27 May the team went down to BC. They left BC on 29 May.
   
  The ministry's debriefing form gives the summit time as 8:00 am. There is a remark written in the form by somebody which says only up to C3. The liaison officer said he had not met Rayamajhi until 1 January 2012, and that the team did not reach the summit. Mulal Gurung of Churen Himal Treks told Jeevan after the team had returned to Kathmandu that they had not been successful.
   
  Rayamajhi said she had lost her vision before reaching Namche on her return from the climb. It took almost two months to cure her blurry vision. She also complained that the behavior of Santa Bahadur and Pur Bahadur had disturbed her mentally. They had not helped her to cook and discouraged her all the time. She said that Pur Bahadur went up with a foreign client [Slovakian Jan Carnogursky], leaving her in C2; she did not know whether they got to the top. Later Pur Bahadur resumed climbing with her.

  No summit!
   
  Hired:
    Pur Bahadur Gurung, 17/12/88 (3/9/2045), Laprak-3, Gorkha
    Santa Bahadur Gurung, 23/10/59 (10/1/2016), Sunwara-5, Chisapani, Gorkha

  Presume all used oxygen.


expid: EVER11182
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Sergey Ermolovich
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2011-04-20
smtdate: 2011-04-30
termdate: 2011-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7050m due to sickness (severe cough & loss of voice)
campsites: BC(20/04,5100m),ABC(25/04,6500m),C1(30/04,7050m),xxx(30/04,7050m)
agency: Adventure Extreme
routememo:
  Ermolovich and Renje Lhakpa went up to C1 on 30 April. Ermolovich got sick. He lost his voice and suffered from excessive cough and gave up further climbing.

  Sherpa:
    Renje Lhakpa, 17/2/1988, Makalu-5, Everest 23/05/10


expid: EVER11183
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Malaysia
leaders: Ahmad Fakhri Abu Samah
sponsor: Misi Perdana D'Everest Expedition 2011
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2011-04-13
smtdate: 2011-05-27
termdate: 2011-05-28
termnote: Abandoned at 8500m due to strong wind
campsites: BC(13/04,5780m),ABC(19/04,6400m),C1(24/04,7200m),C2(25/05,7500m),C3(26/05,8300m),xxx(27/05,8500m)
agency: Himalayan Treasure
routememo:
  First attempt: Ishak, Mohd Idris, Shaharudin, Said and Zamzuri with five Sherpas went to C2 on 21 May. The tents at C2 were damaged so they returned to C1. 

  Team's second attempt started from ABC on 24 May with Ishak, Shaharudin, Ngatemba and Ang Pasang. Two members and two Sherpas left C3 at midnight of 26th May aiming to reach summit on 27 May. The team got to the Second Step at around 7 am on 27th May and waited there in queue for an hour. Then wind started picking up. The climbers felt extremely cold. Ishak started feeling pain in his toes. Then the leader of the expedition Yunus asked the climbers to turn around. By 11 am two climbers and two Sherpas arrived C3 and continued to descend all the way to C1. The team spent night there. Next day 28 May they went down to ABC.

  Sherpas:
    Ngatemba, 1955, Kharikhola, Everest X2, Makalu & Kangch
    Ang Gyalzen, 7/6/74, Kharikhola
    Ang Pasang, 28/9/1979, Waku, Solu, Lhotse X1, Everest X1
    Doma Chhiri, 18/11/1981, Sikli, Jubing-9, Solu
    Pasang Kami, 3/1/73, Pangkoma
    Pasang Karma, 25/12/1972, Paiya, Jubing-7, Solu, Everest X5
    Lama Dawa, 18/2/1975, Sibuje, Waku-4, Solu, Everest X2
    Nang Chombi, 24/10/1977, Kharikhola, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X1
    Ngima Tendi, 7/8/1986, Kharikhola


expid: EVER11184
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Iran
leaders: Mahdi Amidi Ahang
sponsor: Iranian Everest Expedition 2011
approach: 6-day trek
bcdate: 2011-04-09
smtdate: 2011-05-13
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2011-05-24
campsites: BC(09/04,5300m),C1(12/04,6000m),C2(18/04,6400m),C3(23/04,7200m),C4(11/05,8000m),Smt(13/05)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Mahdi and his climbing Sherpa Tshering Tashi started their summit bid from C4 at 8 pm on 12 May. They got to the summit at 10:30 am on 13 May and stayed on summit for 20 minutes. It was windy. Both Mahdi and Tshering Tashi returned to C4 at 3 pm. Next day on 14 May they went down to BC.


expid: EVER11189
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Bangladesh
leaders: Mohammad Abdul Mohit
sponsor: Bangladeshi Everest Expedition 2011
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2011-04-22
smtdate: 2011-05-21
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2011-05-24
campsites: BC(22/04,5200m),ABC(29/04,6400m),C1(04/05,7070m),C2(19/05,7700m),C3(20/05,8300m),Smt(21/05)
agency: World Summit Explorer
routememo:
  Mohit:
    18th to C1 from ABC, sleep
    19th to C2, sleep
    Left C3 for summit push 9 pm NST on 20th May.
    Summit: 7:00 am 21 May NST.
    30 minutes on summit, 10 minutes without oxygen and 20 minutes with oxygen.
    Descended C2 to sleep at 6:30 pm NST
    22nd to ABC.

  2nd member Khaled had pulmonary edema on 1st acclimatization to C1; down to middle camp then to ABC, took 11-12 hours to ABC, coughing weak, slow. High altitude sickness, descended with oxygen down to CBC. Returned to ABC on 19 May, but not possible [to continue]. So high camp was his previous C1 acclimatization. Waited  for team at ABC, returned 24 May with rest of team.

  Khaled first time used oxygen at C1 (7070m) and when he became sick he used oxygen from ABC(6400m) to base camp (5200m).

  The summit party Mohit, Dakipa and Mingma Tshering, left C3 for the top at 9:00 pm (NST) on 20 May and arrived there at 7:00 am on the 21st. They spent 30 minutes on the top and descended to C2 at 6:30 pm. While he was descending from the top, Mohit's vision became blurred from 8500m to C2. He continued down, and the party were in ABC on the 22nd.

  The other member, Khaled, got no higher than C1: he was very slow, weak and coughing. He used oxygen in C1, and after it had taken him 11-12 hours to descend to ABC, he resumed using it in ABC and down to BC about 10 May. He was suffering from pulmonary edema. Again with two Sherpas he tried to climb higher, he did not get above ABC. where he arrived on 19 May. He stayed there waiting the return of the summiters.

  Mohit also used oxygen extensively. He started on it at C1 in the morning of 19 May in his summit push, and kept on it until he returned to C2 on the morning of the 22nd.

  The team did not fix any rope, but they paid $250 per person to those who fixed the ropes that they used.

  Sherpas:
    Dakipa Sherpa, 6/12/83, Kharikhola, Everest X1
    Mingma Tshering Sherpa, 26/9/82, Beding, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1


expid: EVER11190
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Brazil
leaders: Paulo Coelho
sponsor: Extreme Adventure Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2011-04-21
smtdate: 2011-04-30
termdate: 2011-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to leg infection of Ferrari
campsites: BC(21/04,5300m),C1(23-24/04,5900m),C2(28/04),xxx(30/04,7300m)
agency: Adventure Extreme
routememo:
  On summit bid of the Coelho team along with four Sherpas, the team reached C2 on 15 May. Ferrari suffered from leg (right) infection at C2. Then the team decided to abort the expedition and went down to BC. On 20 May Ferrari and Coelhos left BC in a helicopter.


  Email from Helena Coelho:

  Again we went to Everest! But it was not supposed to attempt to go to summit. Me and Paulo were there for giving support to a client; Paulo was supposed to be a cameraman up to C2 or C3 and me only to organize the base camp and assist him in the period of acclimatization. We also had the permit paid by the client only in any emergency he needed a help. 

  He would try the summit with Sherpas and with oxygen and we should wait for him in C2 or C3. It was that!

  He couldn't attempt to go to summit because he had serious health problem on the way to C3, so we had to come down with him from C2 (6400m) to base camp and from there (base camp) he was rescued by helicopter. And all of us came back to Kathmandu on 21 May.

  Sherpas:
    Phurba Namgyal, 7/2/86, Beding, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2
    Angdu Sherpa, 10/9/79, Gaurishankar-3, Makalu X1
    Chiring Finjo, 18/5/85 (5/2/2042), Langtang-3
    Pemba Rita, 31/8/79, Beding, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X5


expid: EVER11191
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: David Hempleman-Adams
sponsor: Iceland Everest Expedition
countries: USA
bcdate: 2011-04-14
smtdate: 2011-05-21
smttime: 0635
termdate: 2011-05-25
campsites: BC(14/04,5200m),ABC(25/04,6400m),C1(10/05,7010m),C2(12/05,7700m),C3(20/05,8300m),Smt(21/05)
agency: South Asian Treks
routememo:
  Duff, Hempleman-Adams, Hogg, Packshaw and seven Sherpas left C3 at 9 pm NST on 20 May. Duff, Hogg, Packshaw and the Sherpas reached the summit at 6:35 am and Hempleman-Adams at 9:35 am. All climbers and Sherpas returned to C3 around 3 pm. All members except Hempleman-Adams went down to C2. Next day 22 descended to ABC. Summit day weather was windy but clear.

   1. Christopher Bates only up to ABC (not a climber)
   2. Graham Duff summited at 6:35 (Nepal time)
   3. David Hempleman-Adams summited at 9:35 (Nepal time)
   4. Alan Hinkes reached North Col (7010m)
   5. Charles Hobhouse reached 8000m
   6. Rodney Hogg summited at 7:35 (Nepal time)
   7. Graham Hoyland (deputy Leader) only up to ABC (not a climber)
   8. John Hunt reached 7700m
   9. Justin Packshaw summited at 6:35 (Nepal time)
  10. George Rodway reached 7700m
  11. Gina Waggott only up to to ABC (not a climber)
  12. Malcolm Walker reached North Col (7010m)
  13. Richard Walker reached North Col

  1. Nga Temba Sherpa, 25/8/1950, Jubing-1, Kharikhola
  2. Ngima Gyalzen Sherpa, 22/4/80, Jubing-1, Kharikhola
  3. Jangbu Sherpa, Jubing-1, Kharikhola, Solu
  4. Ang Kaji Sherpa, 21/8/84, Kharikhola, Solu
  5. Lakpa Sonam Sherpa, Jubing-1, Kharikhola, Solu
  5. Kami Chhiri Sherpa, Jubing-7, Bupsa, Solu
  6. Dawa Chhiri Sherpa, 19/2/78, Thami
  7. Ang Nuri Sherpa, Khumjung-3, Khumbu


expid: EVER11185
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Singapore
leaders: Swee Chiow Khoo
sponsor: International Everest Expedition
countries: Malaysia, Thailand, USA
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2011-04-15
smtdate: 2011-05-21
smttime: 0550
termdate: 2011-05-25
campsites: BC(15/04,5100m),ABC(19/04,6400m),C1(28/04,7100m),C2(19/05,7700m),C3(20/05,8300m),Smt(21/05)
agency: K2 Summit Treks
routememo:
  Kijwanichprasert, Khoo, Mingma Nuru, and both Lhakpa Nurus started their summit bid from C3 at 9:30 pm on 20 May. They got to the summit at 5:50 am on 21 May, spent an hour on the summit, then returned to C3 at 11 am, and stayed there for the night. Next day 22 May all went down to ABC. Summit day was little windy. 

  Snyder's high point was 6700m below North Col on 21 April. Approaching C1, he felt weak and no appetite, then returned to ABC. He left BC on 25 April and arrived Kathmandu on 26. He will probably leave on 29 April.

  Loh touched C2 (7700m); left BC early.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Nuru, 26/9/72, Yilajung, Everest X9, Cho Oyu X3
    Mingma Nuru, 30/12/1975, Thami
    Lhakpa Nuru, 22/11/1980, Thami, Everest X6
    Pemba Tenjin, 2/2/1976
    Dawa Nuru, 18/2/1978


expid: EVER11187
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Namgyal Sherpa
sponsor: Uniting Painting Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2011-05-03
smtdate: 2011-05-19
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2011-05-24
campsites: BC(03/05,5400m),C1(06/05,6000m),C2(07/05,6600m),C3(17/05,7500m),C4(18/05,8000m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Mountain Consult
routememo:
  The Nepali team of five Sherpas led by Namgyal left C4 at 5 am. They got to the summit at 10:00 am and stayed on summit for about 45 minutes. They got back to C4 at 5 pm and slept there. Next day 20 May all went down to BC.

  Members:
    Namgyal Sherpa, 5/10/77, Rakha-5, Bangdel, Khotang, Cho Oyu X4, Everest X6
    Dawa Tendi, 14/4/77 (2/1/2034), Gudel-4, 1st 8000er
    Galden Sherpa, 6/12/1986 (21/8/2043), Bung-9
    Pasang Sherpa, 28/1/1989 (15/10/2045), Dipsung-6, Khotang
    Mingma Sherpa (brother of Namgyal), Rakha-5

  Note: The objective of "Uniting Painting" expedition was to take painting of famous American cartoonist, Ranan Lurie, to the top of the world. The painting has three panels.


expid: EVER11188
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Shailendra Kumar Upadhyay
sponsor: Senior Citizen Mt. Everest Expedition: Mission Mt. Everest 2011
bcdate: 2011-04-28
smtdate: 2011-05-09
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to death of leader
campsites: BC(28/04,5300m),xxx(09/05,6100m)
agency: Himalayan Heritage Treks
routememo:
  Upadhyay collapsed in Icefall on 9 May while returning from C1 to seek medical attention. According to Gyalzen Sherpa of Mountain Consult the point at which Upadhyay reached approximately 5600m.

  Sherpas reached 6100m.

  Sherpas:
    Da Dendi, 9/10/2025, Waku-9
    Renji Sherpa, 9/3/2021, Jubing-3
    Pema Dorji, 1/7/2031, Waku-9
    Ang Dendi, 10/1/2042, Waku-9
    Pemba Gyalzen


expid: HIML11101
peakid: HIML
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Diego Wellig
sponsor: Himlung Expedition
ascent1: 38th
bcdate: 2011-05-15
smtdate: 2011-05-21
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2011-05-24
othersmts: Climbed Saribung
campsites: BC(15/05,4900m),C1(18/05,5400m),C2(20/05,6030m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  BC at 4900m at Gyajikang BC.

  Approach: Jomsom, Chaile, Sera Gomba, Lo Manthang, Yara Thanti, Labse Khola, Damodar Kund, Japanese BC, Saribung, high camp, Bhrikuti, Phugaon

  On 21 May three members including leader Wellig and four Nepalese left C2 at 2 am for the summit. They reached summit at 12 noon, stayed on summit for 30 minutes, then descended to C1 at 4 pm and slept there. Next day went down to BC.

  Fixed rope: 200m from 6250-6350m

  Hired:
    Ngima Dorje Tamang, 30 May 1981 (17/2/2038), Tapting-7
    Lal Bahadur Tamang, 21 June 1983 (07/03/2040), Ramche-6, Rasuwa
    Kancha Lama Sherpa, 19 Nov 1982 (04/08/2039), Taksindu-2, Solu
    Temba Sherpa, 15 Apr 1987 (02/01/2044), Lelep-9, Taplejung

  BC at 4900m at Gyajikang BC.


expid: JANU11101
peakid: JANU
year: 2011
route1: E Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Hyung-Il
sponsor: K2 Extreme Team Jannu Expedition
approach: Chandragadi, bus to Tharpu->Thebang->Cheran->Larje
bcdate: 2011-04-02
smtdate: 2011-05-03
termdate: 2011-05-07
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to fall into crevasse
campsites: BC(02/04,4900m),C1(03/05,6100m),xxx(03/05,6100m)
accidents: Park broken ribs from crevasse fall
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  On 22 April all five members Chang, Kim (leader) Kim Young-Ju, Lee Il-Young and Park went up to 5900m. Then began heavy snowfall, so they went back to BC. On 3 May the team started from BC. Between 6-7 morning, around 6100m, Park fell into crevasse about 7m deep. He was pulled up. His right ribs were broken. Then the team gave up the climb.


expid: LANR11301
peakid: LANR
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge from Tilman's Pass
nation: France
leaders: Jean Annequin
sponsor: Annequin's Team to Langtang Ri
approach: See route details
bcdate: 2011-10-13
smtdate: 2011-10-26
termdate: 2011-10-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6850m due to big crevasse above C2
campsites: BC(13/10,4960m),C1(17/10,5660m),C2(19/10,6230m),xxx(26/10,6850m)
agency: Expes.com Treks
routememo:
  Approach: Syabru Besi, Lama Hotel, Langtang, Kyanjin Gompa, Morimoto BC, Glacier camp

  On 26 Oct the team consisting of Annequin, Regis, Rossignol and Gelju started their summit push from C2 at 3 am. When the team reached 6850m around 9 am, they came to a big crevasse which could not be crossed easily. Only possible way to cross it was to put ladder or to go down into crevasse then to climb up to other side; that too was risky because the edges of crevasse were broken and could not be depended on in that area. Besides that the team did not have enough time and manpower to work in crossing the crevasse. So the team decided to stop climbing and turned around at C1 where they reached around 4:30 pm. They spent the night and next day 27 Oct to BC. According to the expedition leader Annequin the best place for BC as per his GPS is at: N 28 degree, 19', 030' and 85 degree 41, 683'. The degree of difficulty is similar to Gimmigela located north of Kangchenjunga.

  Fixed rope: 50m on steep portion between BC-C1.

  Sherpa:
    Gelju Sherpa, 3/12/1963 (17/8/2020), Taksindu-6, Solu, no 8000ers


expid: LHOT11114
peakid: LHOT
year: 2011
route1: W Face
nation: Iran
leaders: Mahdi Amidi, Hossein Bahmanyar
sponsor: Iranians on Lhotse
approach: Standard (10-day trek) for Bahmanyar
bcdate: 2011-04-14
smtdate: 2011-05-19
smttime: 1530
termdate: 2011-05-21
campsites: BC(14/04,5300m),C1(22/04,6000m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(01/05,7200m),C4(18/05,7800m),Smt(19,21/05)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Bahmanyar and Chhiring Dorje [Tshering Jangbu] started from C4 at 2:30 am on 19 May. About 200m below the summit he found no fixed rope. He went down to C4 and back with rope. They got to the summit at 3:30 pm, stayed on summit for 20 minutes, then descended to C4 at 5 pm. They continued to C2 where they arrived at 8 pm. Next day 20 May went down to BC. Summit day  weather was good, but a little windy. Bahmanyar said that 6 climbers summited on that day.

  Amidi summited Lhotse on 21 May at 16:00 pm with supplementary oxygen or Sherpa support.


  Parajuli Damber (from trekking agency) - 25 March 2012

    Tshering Jangbu Sherpa, Rakshi Kharka, Lokhim-9, Solu, 1/8/77 (17/4/2034),
      Everest X2, Lhotse X2, Cho Oyu X1


expid: MAKA11301
peakid: MAKA
year: 2011
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Artur Hajzer
sponsor: Polish Makalu Expedition
approach: Khanbari->Num->Tashigaon->Kamduwa->Mumbuk->Yak Kharka->Hillary BC
bcdate: 2011-09-01
smtdate: 2011-09-30
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2011-10-05
campsites: BC(01/09,5600m),C2(09/09,6500m),C3(17/09,7350m),C4(20/09,7800m),Smt(30/09)
accidents: 2 members frostbite; hands fingers amputated (Maciej Stanczak 10 fingers, Tomasz Wolfart 4 fingers)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Artur Hazjur, Adam Bielecki and Tomasz Wolfart started their summit push from C4 on 30 September. Hajzer and Bielecki reached summit at 2:30 pm and Wolfart at 4 pm. Hajzer and Bielecki descended C4 at 7 pm and Wolfart at 11 am next on 1 October.

  Hajzer added in his email that no oxygen, no Sherpa support during the expedition on the way to summit. 

  Rescue action for Maciej Stanczak and Tomasz Wolfart on 2 Oct from the altitude of 6500m required 5 Sherpas help who arrived from Ktm. 

  2 members frostbite; hand fingers amputated - Maciej Stanczak 10 fingers, Tomasz Wolfart 4 fingers.

  Fixed rope: 5900m from 6600m to 7000m


expid: MANA11316
peakid: MANA
year: 2011
route1: NE Face
nation: Romania
leaders: Alex Gavan
sponsor: Alex Manaslu Expedition
approach: Arughat, 7-day trek to Samagaon
bcdate: 2011-09-18
smtdate: 2011-10-04
smttime: 1540
termdate: 2011-10-07
campsites: BC(18/09,4710m),C1(22/09,5600m),C2(30/09,6200m),C3(02/10,6750m),C4(03/10,7400m),Smt(04/10)
achievment: 2nd Romanian to summit
agency: Sherpa Adventure Travel
routememo:
  Gavan started his summit push from C4 at 5 am on 4 Oct. He got to the summit at 3:40 pm, stayed on summit maybe for an hour, then went down to C3; it was already dark. He spent the night there. Next day 5 Oct he went down to BC. There were two other climbers who went to summit after Gavan on that day. One was from Peru and another was from the Cadiach team.


expid: NUPT11301
peakid: NUPT
year: 2011
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Fabrizio Zangrilli
sponsor: American Nuptse
bcdate: 2011-10-31
smtdate: 2011-11-07
termdate: 2011-11-08
termnote: Abandoned at 5920m due to bad snow conditions (loose snow on hard ice)
campsites: BC(31/10,5285m),Biv1(05/11,5210m),Biv2(06/11,5900m),xxx(07/11,5920m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Gorak Shep's Himalayan Lodge.

  Before attempting his solo ascent of the seldom-climbed West Face of Nuptse, Zangrilli led two clients to the summits of trekking peaks, Kyazo Ri in the Gokyo valley (on 10 October) and Island Peak (on 15 October).

  Then Zangrilli went alone to Gorak Shep on 31 October. He made the Himalayan Lodge there his BC. The next day he climbed Kalapattar to have a good look at the West Face (or wall) of Nuptse, which he proposed to climb in alpine style. He took a lot of pictures of the face. He decided that the "key (to his route) was how to get to the bottom of the wall."

  But it turned out to be very easy to reach. On the 5th he left Gorak Shep and it took him only two hours to get there. He bivouacked there at 5210m. Since he planned to climb the mountain in four days, he had very little equipment with him: a sleeping bag, bivvy sack, on 5-mm rope, 12 pieces of hardware, a gas stove and two canisters of gas.

  At midnight of the 5th/6th he woke up and he started to climb the face at 1:30 am in full moonlight. Aheads were two large seracs. He scaled the serac and then at 5:00 am arrived at the first glacier, which ascended from 5300m to 5450m. It was broken by three very large crevasses, which he went around: he did not have enough equipment to descend into the crevasses and climb back up the opposite sides.

  Strong wind out of the northwest blew tiny icy crystals down on him from the West Ridge: he felt as though he was being snowed on. Now the crux of the route above 5450m was a rock buttress above a bergschrund. The buttress was easy to climb because wind-driven snow had compressed the snow into the cracks in the rock. It was as steep as 70 degrees, but it was smooth.

  At 5850m, he crossed over a snow ridge to the top of the second of two menacing hanging glaciers. Zangrilli made his second bivouac in a bergschrund at 5900m at 1:30 pm on the 6th. It had taken him three hours to get to the bergschrund up 35-40 degrees sugar snow.

  It was very cold in the bergschrund and he was not equipped for such a low temperature. He got up much earlier than planned at 4:00am, because he was so cold -- he had to move. He resumed climbing at 5:00 am. But above him was 50-65-degree hard blue ice covered by a lot of sugar snow. He now realized that "couldn't get anywhere" here. He managed to ascend 20 meters and then gave up.

  At 6:00 am on 7 November he started down, and at 3:00 pm, he was back at his BC at Gorak Shep.

  He wants to attempt the West Face next autumn ,but starting in early October rather than a month earlier.


expid: PANB11301
peakid: PANB
year: 2011
route1: NE side
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
countries: Belgium
approach: See route details
bcdate: 2011-10-10
smtdate: 2011-10-27
termdate: 2011-10-29
othersmts: Climbed approach peaks to Panbari (Hindu Himal, Lilia Peak) and Phu Khang Go (PHUG-113-01)
campsites: BC(18/10,5250m),C1(22/10,5800m),C2(25/10,6200m),xxx(27/10,6767m)
termnote:
  Abandoned at 6767m due to too much snow & great difficulty to build the track across the plateau to Panbari

routememo:
  Approach: Besisahar, Dharapani, Bimthang, Saipudonda Glacier, Larkya La, Athahra Saya Khola.

  This new route over Hindu Himal east slope is the easiest way to go to the glacier plateau and to Panbari.

  The base camp is accessible with horses from Samdo for a long day.

  The snow slopes from ABC to C2 are also easy, with very few crevasses. There are other possibilities to build camp on the way.

  We climbed the 3 summits on the way to Panbari to avoid the crossing of the snow plateau and to stay on a ridge with less deep snow. All are easy snow summits.

  About the summits climbed:

  1. Hindu Himal at 6306m is the summit of the ridge and its a big dome which give access to the plateau. We traverse Hindu Himal from east side to north.

  2. Lilia Peak at 6425m, is the middle summit of a group of mountains called Tinbai by the locals of Samdo. We traversed Lilia peak from the South Ridge to the West Ridge.

  3. Athahra Saya Khola Himal at 6767m, is a virgin snow summit on the Chinese border and the highest of Tinbai Himal. We climbed the East Ridge [to the top at 14:30] and came back the same way.


expid: PANG11301
peakid: PANG
year: 2011
route1: S Face (up), SW Face (down)
nation: USA
leaders: David Gottlieb
sponsor: Pangbuk Ri 2011
ascent1: 1st
bcdate: 2011-10-28
smtdate: 2011-11-11
smttime: 0900
campsites: BC(28/10,5000m),ABC1(05/11,5300m),ABC2(06/11,5700m),Smt(11/11)
achievment: 1st ascent
agency: Climb High Himalaya
routememo:
  BC on lateral moraine of Pangbuk Glacier.

  The small team of only two climbers made the first ascent of 6725 meters high Pangbuk Ri in the Rolwaling on 11 November in a BC-to-BC round trip of just one week. They left behind on the mountain four pitons, two stoppers and one ice screw -- no fixed ropes for the simple reason they didn't fix any.

  Their approach march took much longer. They left Kathmandu on 11 October by road to Singati on the Bhote Koshi River. Following the river north, they arrived at Simigaon, just east of the Bhote Koshi, on the 12th. They continued east along the Rolwaling Chhu (river) to Beding, where they arrived on the 14th and stayed three nights. On the 17th they were in Na, where they again stayed three nights.

  However, on the 19th they did a quick ascent of Yalung Ri, 5350m (18,471 ft) high. The round trip from Na, southwest along the Yalung Glacier and up the mountain's NE Ridge, then back to Na took them only three hours.

  On 20 October the two Americans moved southeast to the southern side of Trakarding, the southeastern extension of Tsho Rolpa's lake bed, to its southeast end at 5000m and then northeast across the Trashi Labtsa into Khumbu to Thengpo village, west of Thami Og, on 23 November and finally  on the 24th to Namche Bazar. They stayed in Namche two nights and did some shopping. On the 26th back to Thami Og, then north and west to Pangbuk Glacier and at last arrived at their BC site on 28 October on the lateral moraine of the glacier at 5000m.

  The following three days were spent exploring the south and west aspects of Pangbuk Ri. Each man independently concluded that the South Face presented the best route. So on the 2nd of November they found the way to a good ABC site for the face at 5300m; they moved to it on the 5th. But the site was exposed to frequent rockfall, and the next day they moved the camp up to 5700m below a large overhanging rock formation which gave them good protection from the rocks that started coming down the face at about 6:00 am every day. They wore hard hats; the top of Gottlieb's got smashed in by a direct hit; he wasn't hurt but his hat certainly was.

  They spent a few days at ABC waiting for the full moon and watching the rock fall. Finally at 4:00 am on 10 November they started up the mountain's South Face, and they kept moving up. At 2:30 pm they reached the summit (east) ridge. They now lowered themselves five or six feet (1.5-1.8m) into a crevassse for protection from the wind and turned on their small stove to brew warm drinks, moving their limbs constantly to keep their circulation flowing.

  At 6:30 am of the 11th, they left their crevasse and climbed back to the ridge. They walked along the glacier ridge to the summit, a large flat area, where they arrived at 9:00 am. They left the top an hour later.

  They realized that it would not be easy to rappel down their ascent route, so they descended by a different route down the SW Face. In 20 rappels in 14 hours they reached the bottom of this face at 5400m at midnight of the 11/12 Nov. Some of the rappels were "tricky" said Gottlieb; "We had to be super-careful." They then trekked 15 km to their BC, moving very slowly because they were extremely tired, not having slept for such a long time. They arrived at BC at 6:00 am on 12 November for the third sunrise of the their climb.

  Both members had just experienced the most technical climbing on snow and ice of their careers. And the 50 hours they had spent moving without interruption, including inside the crevasse, was the longest such period they had endured. They had excellent weather through out their climbing period.

  They left BC on 18 November to return to Kathmandu by a different route from their approach march: they trekked to Jiri and came by motor vehicle the rest of the way to the city on the 24th.


expid: PATR11301
peakid: PATR
year: 2011
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
sponsor: Paulo Grobel Patrasi Expedition
countries: Switzerland
approach: See route details
bcdate: 2011-11-20
smtdate: 2011-11-25
termdate: 2011-11-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6036m due to difficulty of the ridge
campsites: BC(20/11,4650m),ABC(21/11,5160m),C1(23/11,5750m),xxx(25/11,6036m)
othersmts:
  Sanctuary Peak by Sonia Baillif, Jean-Louis Perette on 24 Nov; Hopeless Peak by Sonia Baillif, Marco Meisser, Paulo Grobel on 25 Nov

routememo:
  We took the permit of Patrasi just to have the opportunity to go into the Kanjiroba Sanctuary, to try the small peak at 6207m and to traverse in the Chaudhabis Khola to improve a new high level route, something like Khumbu to Makalu, but in the west.

  We did not attempt Patrasi nor the nameless 6207m peak, because of lack of time due to porter management.

  From the Sanctuary Base Camp, we tried to find a easy pass to go to the Jumla side that we already climbed two years ago with Sonia Baillif. But the melting of the glacier has increased the difficulty of the access on this side; then we focused on the traverse of a high ridge to cross into the Chaudhabis Khola, the Sanctuary Ridge. But half of the way, the ridge became more tricky and corniced. We gave up, also because of lack of food and a knee pain of a member. The kitchen staff wait us on the Chaudhabis Khola side.

  We had to return to Sanctuary Base Camp to organize a rescue helicopter flight to Jumla.

  [Note: The Sanctuary Peak (6025m) is not the same as the Sanctuary Peak (6207m) added to the open peaks list by the Ministry in 2014.]


expid: ROMA11201
peakid: ROMA
year: 2011
route1: N Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Tomotsu Ohnishi
sponsor: West Nepal Expedition of Osaka Club
approach: Chainpur->Dhuli
bcdate: 2011-04-14
smtdate: 2011-04-16
termdate: 2011-04-17
termnote: Abandoned at 3800m because they could not cross the gorge
othersmts: Attempted Danphe Sail (DANS-112-01)
campsites: BC(14/04,3200m),C1(16/04,3800m),xxx(16/04,3800m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  The team could not cross the gorge while going to the mountain.

  Sherpa:
    Gomba Sherpa, 6/12/84 (21/8/2041), Sotang-6

  Roma is southwest of Saipal.


expid: EVER11175
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Bhakta Kumar Rai
sponsor: Supreme Master Godangel on Everest
approach: Lukla->Namche->Gokyo
smtdate: 2011-05-20
smttime: 0500
campsites: Smt(20/05)
routememo:
  No camp dates or altitudes. Summit on 20 May by Bhakta Kumar Rai, Da Narbu/Nurbu Sherpa, Karma Gelzen/Gyalzen Sherpa and Purna Kumar Rai. The first three reached the summit at 5:00 am and Purna Kumar Rai at 7 am. Biodata:

  Hired:
    Da Narbu/Nurbu Sherpa, 22/11/76 17/12/2037), Kharikhola, Solu
    Karma Gelzen/Gyalzen Sherpa, 6/11/84 (21/7/2041), Kharikhola, Solu
    Purna Kumar Rai, 22/8/78 (6/6/2035), Sanghu-1, Taplejung
   
  The ministry accepts their summit claim, but not the claim that Bhakta Kumar spent 32 hours on the top.


  Nepali guru performs 32-hour miracle - on Mt Everest 
  ("Indo-Asian News Service," May 23, 2011)

  Kathmandu, Nepal - A 30-year-old Nepali guru, believed by his followers to be a divine being with supernatural powers, has created a record in the spiritual world by meditating for 27 hours - on Mt Everest, the highest peak in the world.

  Bhakta Kumar Rai, born in an ethnic community in a remote village in Udaypur district in eastern Nepal, transformed himself into "Supreme Master Godangel" after founding a sect, the Heavenly Path, when he was only 18.

  Rai's followers, who are scattered over Nepal, India, Hong Kong, Britain and Malaysia, regard him as an angel sent by God to earth to propagate peace, eradicate poverty and encourage self-healing. He is also credited by disciples with having performed miracles from an early age.

  The 30-year-old did create a miracle on Mt Everest, summiting the 8,848m peak Friday and staying up for an incredible 32 hours, out of which he spent 27 hours meditating for world peace.

  "He reached the summit at 5.30 a.m. on Friday and stayed up meditating till 1 p.m. the next day," said Laxman Bhattarai, spokesperson at Nepal's tourism ministry.

  "Supreme Master Godangel spent 32 hours on the summit, meditating for 27 hours," Heavenly Path officials in Kathmandu told IANS.

  "He used oxygen only for 11 hours."It is an incredible feat that breaks the record of the longest stay on Mt Everest.

  In 1999, Nepali climber and high-altitude guide Babu Chhiri Sherpa stayed on the summit for 21 hours and 30 minutes, creating a record for endurance in the freezing cold where severe frostbite and swelling in the brain leading to death overcome less hardy climbers.

  This month alone, three people died while trying to summit Mt Everest.

  Rai's followers said he had meditated all through the day and night sitting out in the open on the summit. Bhattarai however said that it would have to be confirmed. Babu Chhiri Sherpa had stayed up in a tent.

  The Heavenly Path says Rai foretold the royal massacre in Nepal in 2000 that saw the royal family perish, as well as the attack on the Twin Towers in the US a year later.

  In 2002 he participated in a world peace conference in India's financial capital Mumbai where he was reportedly given the title of "Supreme Master Godangel".

  This year, three spiritual expeditions headed for Mt Everest with the mission of spreading the message of world peace.

  Besides Rai's Prayer, Meditation and Request for World Peace on the Top of the World Expedition, the other two are the Spiritual Everest Expedition 2011, led by Jogabyasa Bhoi from India's Orissa state who wants to spread the message of Indian revolutionary Aurobindo Ghose who later became a seer, and the Global Peace Initiative from the Highest Peak of the World led by Nepali Sarada Kumari Rayamajhi, a 34-year-old nun belonging to the sect commonly known as the Brahmakumaris, who have their headquarters in India's Rajasthan state.


expid: AMAD09353
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Micheal Beigbeder
sponsor: Beigbeder Ama Dablam Expedition 2009
approach: Lukla->Pangbohe
bcdate: 2009-10-20
smtdate: 2009-11-03
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2009-11-04
campsites: BC(20/10,4700m),C1(01/11,5200m),C2(02/11,5800m),Smt(03/11)
agency: Khumbu Shangri-La Nepal
routememo:
  BC  20/10  4700m
  C1  01/11  5200m	
  C2  02/11  5800m
  Smt 03/11  by Beigbeder, Meziani, Mingma Sherpa and one more Sherpa at 11 am.

  Summit team left C2 at 6 am. The weather was good. Straightforward climb. They descended to BC, where they arrived at 4 pm.


expid: EVER11186
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Sano Babu Sunuwar
sponsor: The Ultimate Descent, Everest To The Sea
bcdate: 2011-04-29
smtdate: 2011-05-21
smttime: 0815
campsites: BC(29/04,5400m),C2(18/05,6500m),C3(19/05,7200m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(21/05)
achievment: 1st descent by paraglider
agency: Himalayan Trailblazer
routememo:
  C4 at South Col.

  Both members and Phu Dorje left C4 at 9:00 pm on 20 May, got to the top at 8:15 am on 21 May and stayed on summit for 45 minutes. The tandem paragliding flight took off at 9:00 am. Highest altitude gained on flight was 8865m, first to gain height above summit on free flight (i.e., not powered flight). Sunuwar piloted the flight and Lhakpa Tshering was the passenger. They landed at Syangboche. Duration of flight was one hour, longest flight from summit of Everest. Phu Dorje descended to BC by foot clear camp.

  Sunuwar used oxygen from C3 and during the flight, Lhakpa used none.
   
  From Syangboche, the two members trekked to Lukla and in early June, they continued downwards in a kayak on the Kosi River to the Ganges, Kolkata (Calcutta) and the Bay of Bengal. They named their expedition the Ultimate Descent Summit to Sea.

  Sherpa helpers:
    Phu Dorje Sherpa (Ang Bhai), 25/1/84, Choplung, Chaurikharka-3, no 8000ers
    Ngima Ongchu, Surke, Chaurikharka-4, Solu, no 8000ers

  [Note: The Ultimate Descent website states that two Sherpa helpers went to the summit, Phu Dorje carrying oxygen and Nima Wangchu carrying the glider.]


expid: AMAD11318
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Markus Amon
sponsor: Austrians on Ama Dablam
approach: Lukla->Namche->Thami->Gokyo->Cho La->Kalapattar->Kongma La->Island Pk
bcdate: 2011-11-02
smtdate: 2011-11-05
smttime: 0923
campsites: BC(02/11),C1(06/11),Smt(05,07/11)
agency: Langtang Ri Trekkng
routememo:
  Amon made a speed climb from BC to top to BC. He left BC alone at 2:18 am on 5 November, reached the summit at 9:23 am and returned to BC at 2:48 pm; took seven hours and five minutes to the top and made the round trip in 12-1/2 hours.

  The weather was excellent. Just a bit of fog in the morning, no wind, temperatures hovering between 10 and 15 minus C degrees. Clear skies that provided a great view from the summit.

  Watzek summited two days later. He stopped in C1 on the 6th and go to the top at 11:20 am on 7 November. He descended to C2 at 5:00 pm and returned to BC on the 8th.

  Groebner went to about 6200m (below the Grey Tower) on the 6th. He had had a bad night because of stomach problems at C1 and felt very depleted of energy. He had left C1 at 8:00 am on the 7th, but when he got to 6200m at about 11:00 am, he turned around and was in BC at 1:30 pm.

  In C2, Watzek discovered he had frostbite on both big toes. Because of his frostbite, the team called for a helicopter, and the next day flew to Kathmandu.


expid: MANA11317
peakid: MANA
year: 2011
route1: NE Face
nation: UK
leaders: Phil Crampton
sponsor: Altitude Junkies Manaslu Expedition 2011
countries: Canada, Colombia, Czech Republic, Finland, Russia, USA
bcdate: 2011-09-10
smtdate: 2011-10-05
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2011-10-08
campsites: BC(10/09,4900m),C1(16/09,5800m),C2(17/09,6400m),C3(03/10,6800m),C4(04/10,7450m),Smt(05/10)
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  The expedition sent five members and five Sherpas to the summit on 5 October, as follows:

  Cartwright, Masek and Horrell with Kami Nuru, Chhedar and Chhongba, left C4 for the top at 7:00 am on the 7th and got to the summit at 11:30 am. Hyrylanien and Pasang Wangchu left C4 at the same time, but summited at 12:30 pm. Finally, Kay and Pasang Gomba left C4 at 8:00 am also on the 7th and arrived at the summit at 2:00 pm. The summiters returned to C2 between 3:00 and 6:00 pm.

  Oxygen was used on their summit day by Cartwright, Masek, Horrell and Kay from C4 to the top to C2. Hyrylainen and all Sherpas used none at all; non-summiter Ms. Mikhanovskaia also used none as noted below, but non-summiter Owens was on it from C4 to his high point of 7800m and down to C2.

  Non-summiting members:

  Crampton went to 7300m on 4 October with Dickson, who got cold hands and they went down to BC the same day together.

  Ferro got to C2 on 2 October, but did not feel capable of going higher. He turned around; his friend Falutico turned around with him. Both descended to BC that day.

  Ms. Mikhanovskaia reached C4 with the summit group, but instead of going for the top with them on the 5th, she went down to BC because of cold feet: she had not been using oxygen. Tarke Sherpa descended with her.

  Owens climbed up to 7800m with the summiters, then decided this was good enough for him and went back to C2 and down to BC on the 6th. Sange Sherpa went down all the way with him.

  Sherpas:
    Chhedar Sherpa, 19/12/63 (4/9/2020),Sisuwa Khola, Makalu-9, Everest X6
    Chhongba Sherpa, 3/7/60 (20/3/2017), Tate, Chaurikharka-7, Solu
    Kami Nuru Sherpa, 26/8/85 (10/5/2042), Chaurikharka, Solu, Everest 23/5/09
    Pasang Gomba Sherpa, 25/11/69 (10/8/2026), Kurima, Lokhim-9, Solu
    Pasang Wangchu Sherpa, 25/4/87 (12/1/2044), Cheremy, Bung-9, Solu, Everest X2
    Tarke Sherpa, 1967, Lokhim-4
    Sange Sherpa, 20/9/73

  Members of this expedition assisted Juan Oiarzabal in his descent from the summit (see web site link).


expid: EVER11193
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Chiranji Lal Mudgal
bcdate: 2011-04-11
smtdate: 2011-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 7950m
campsites: BC(11/04,5400m),C1(6100m),C2(07/05,6400m),C3,C4(05/13,7950m),xxx(13/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  From www.indianexpress.com

  Six-year-old Yashvardhan is happy to see his father, Sub-Inspector Chiranji Lal Mudgal, back home after 46 days. "My papa has scaled the world's highest peak, Mount Everest," Yashvardhan says proudly at his home but is unaware where Mount Everest is?

  At the police quarters in Sector 26, the home of 37-year-old Sub-Inspector Mudgal, who has made Chandigarh Police proud by becoming the first policeman from the city to scale the Everest, guests are pouring in to greet the hero. The family is jubilant.

  "We are proud of him. I was always sure that my husband has some special qualities and he has proved it by becoming the first police officer from Chandigarh to scale the world's highest peak," said Mudgal's wife Swati. Swati was injured along with her son in a road accident after Mudgal left for the expedition last month.

  "But we never told him about the accident," said Swati said. A confident-looking Mudgal, originally a resident of village Jassia Rohtak, said that he had planned to scale Mount Everest in 2009 after paying obeisance at Kailaih Manasarovar. "And in 2010 I met Mamta Sodha of Haryana, who had scaled the highest peak, and I sought her guidance about the expedition. And later with the full support of my family, I decided to scale the Everest," he said.

  In April this year Mudgal, who was posted as in-charge of police post 49, applied for leave and told his senior about his plans. "All my senior, including the IGP, wished me best of luck and I reached Kathmandu on April 4 for the forward journey," he recalled. On April 11 Mudgal reached the base camp, at a height of 5,400 m, where the trekkers are acclimatised about the harsh and windy weather.

  "But at the base camp I had a severe cough and I was advised to go back to Kathmandu for treatment. And I decided to return back to Kathmandu where I was treated for a week," he said.

  The Sub-Inspector, however, did not loose heart but when he informed his family back home about his returning back to Kathmandu, his mother-in-law insisted that he come back.

  "But my wife gave me a lot of encouragement to scale the highest peak. And after a week's rest, I reached the base camp again on April 29. After staying there for three days, my three other companions - two Canadians and an Australian - left for camp I and we reached camp II on May 7. The weather was worsening. There were winds and the temperature was really chilling . Two of my companions could not move forward and returned back," he said.

  "But we kept moving ahead and after reaching camp III and camp IV, on May 14 at 7.25 am, I was finally on top of the world highest peek. I hoisted the tricolour and the Chandigarh Police flag at Everest. For a few minutes I felt I was the tallest man in the world. It was a dream come true," said the SI.

  After returning to the base camp, he first called his wife to give her the news. And simultaneously he sent a text message to the IGP, DIG and SSP of Chandigarh telling them that he had scaled the Everest.

  "Respected Sir, this is SI Chiranji Lal Mudgal summitting mount Everest," he wrote in the message to his officer, who promptly greeted him. Mudgal reached the city on Friday and was given a warm welcome at the railway station and later at home.


  Graham Austin (Australian summiter on 14 May) - 23 Feb 2012
   
  When I made the summit shortly before sunrise on the 14th, I was with Nima Karma and a solo climber called Mike Hurst was on the summit. David and his Sherpa had left the summit just prior to me arriving and the rest of our IMG team was not far behind me.
   
  There were no other climbers above Camp IV on the south side that day. I never met an Indian climber during my whole expedition.
   
  The other Australian climbers I know about who made the summit were Sharon and Alan Cohrs who were on the summit about a week later.


  March 2012 - Result of queries to IMG and Adventure Consultants

  It is likely that Mudgal did not summit and his claim should be considered as false at this time.

  Mudgal was not seen by the May 14 IMG summit team and they were the only ones high on the route at his supposed summit time (7:25 am). The only others on the route were two Alpine Ascents members who summited quite a bit a later (9:30 am).

  The only person that saw an Indian was IMG's David Pastor who said the man was descending from C4 on May 13. the Indian told David that he had summited earlier that morning. David's comment was:

    When we were going up from C3 to C4, just before I got to camp 4 I met an
    Indian guy that was descending, he was very happy because he had summitted early
    that morning. That's the only Indian I recall. He may be mistaken on the dates!

  Mudgal was not seen by the May 13 IMG and Adventure Consultants summit teams. IMG had several members at or near the summit at his supposed summit time (7:25 am), while AC was much earlier in the morning (about 4 am). The AC lead Sherpa (Ang Dorje) did not see any Indians above C4 on May 13.

  Two other members from the May 14 IMG summit team pointed out (from the news article) that the Indian only started climbing above BC in early May, thus would have summited with less that two weeks of acclimatization.


expid: EVER09180
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: SE Col-SE Ridge
nation: Taiwan
leaders: Lee Hsaio-Shih
sponsor: Taiwanese Everest 2009
bcdate: 2009-04-01
smtdate: 2009-05-22
smttime: 0615
termdate: 2009-05-27
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East (5 April)
campsites: BC(01/04,5350m),C1(9/04,6100m),C2(15/04,6500m),C3(28/04,7100m),C4(19/05,7900m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Churen Himal Treks
routememo:
  Lee and his two hired helpers, Mulal Gurung and Pemba Wangchu Sherpa, moved up the mountain slowly through the usual fixed camps. After their occupation of C3 at 7100m on 28 April, they descended to BC and all the way down to Namche Bazar to rest.

  They returned to BC on 10 May and began their first push to the summit on 15 May, when they moved directly up to C2. They stayed in C2 until the 18th, whene they occupied C3, and next day they established C4 at the South Col.

  The three climbers left C4 for the top: Lee and Pemba Wangchu at 6:00 pm and Mulal at 8:30 pm. The three reached the Balcony at 8500m together at midnight of the 19th/20th. Here Lee was extremely tired and retreated to C4; the two Nepalis went down with him. They returned to C4 at 2:00 am of the 20th and rested there until 6:00 pm of the 21st, when they set out again for the top.

  The three climbers left C4 at about 6:00 pm and this time they succeeded in reaching the summit at 6:15 am on 22 May. They went back to C4 at 4:00 pm and stayed the night there. On the 23rd they were in C2, and on the 25th they arrived in BC.

  Lee used oxygen from C3 to his high points to and in C3. The two Nepalis used it in C4 to their high points to and in C4.

  Nepalis:
    Mulal Gurung, 1/4/71, Laprak-3, Gorkha, no 8000ers.
    Pemba Wangchu/Ongchu, 2/10/83, Kharikhola, Lhotse 23/5/10


expid: BAMO10301
peakid: BAMO
year: 2010
route1: S Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Josef Einwaller
sponsor: Austrians on Bamongo
bcdate: 2010-10-08
smtdate: 2010-10-14
termdate: 2010-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to lack of rope to fix for dangerous conditions
campsites: BC(08/10,5000m),C1(10/10,5400m),C2(14/10,5900m),xxx
agency: Numbur Himal Treks
routememo:
  BC  08/10  5000m
  C1  10/10  5400m
  C2  14/10  5900m
  HPt 14/10  5900m

  The abaondoned the climb as it was too dangerous without fixed ropes which they did not bring. They noticed that they needed fixed ropes and abandoned the expedition.


expid: AMAD11319
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Justin Merle
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Ama Dablam Expedition 2011
approach: Lukla->Namche->Debuche->Lobuche->Gorakshep->Lobuche BC
bcdate: 2011-10-29
smtdate: 2011-11-04
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2011-11-06
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East on 27 Oct by Merle, Smith, Walker
campsites: BC(29/10,4572m),C1(01/11,5821m),C2(02/11,6066m),C2.7(03/11,6200m),Smt(04/11)
agency: Beyul Adventure
routememo:
  Anderson, Bevans, Walker, Chhewang and Nima started their summit bid from C2 at 6:30 am. Bevans turned around from 6600m due to cold feet; he slept at C2. Anderson and Walker with Chhewang and Nima got to the top at 11 am. They stayed on summit for about 30 minutes. They got back to C3 at 1 pm and continued to C2. Walker and Merle spent night at C2. Anderson and two Sherpas spent night at C1. 

  Merle and Postle started from C2 at 4:30 am. Merle stayed with Bevans who had turned around from 6600m. Postle summited same day and went down to BC. The summit day weather was cold and windy. 

  Smith left the expedition on 29 Oct from Dingboche due to lack of motivation, and returned to Kathmandu on 31 Oct and left Nepal probably on 2 Nov.

  Sherpas:
    Chewang Lendu, 19/04/1980 (07/01/2037), Phortse, Lhotse X5, Eerest X2, etc.
    Nima Karma, 29/06/83 (15/3/2040), Phortse, Everest X5


expid: AMAD11320
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Ameet Singh
sponsor: Indians on Ama Dablam
approach: Lukla->Tengboche->Lobuche->Gorakshep->Pheriche->Island Peak->Pangboche
bcdate: 2011-10-30
smtdate: 2011-11-06
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2011-11-09
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak on 27 Oct
campsites: BC(30/10,4600m),C1(02/11,5700m),C2(04/11,6000m),C3(05/11,6300m),Smt(06/11)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Singh, Ved Prakash, Dawa and Kusang left C3 at 6:30 am and 7 am. First one Singh got to the top at 1 pm and second ones at 1:30 am. They stayed on summit about 30 minutes. The team descended to C3 where they reached at about 5:30 pm. Next day went to BC. Singh went down to BC on 8 Nov. The summit day weather was cold and very windy.

  Sherpas:
    Kusang Tenzing, 16/05/86, Ghunsa, Lelep-9, Taplejung, Everest X3, Manaslu X1
    Dawa Bhote


expid: AMAD11321
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Singapore
leaders: Mei Ying Soo
sponsor: Singapore Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Debuche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2011-10-30
smtdate: 2011-11-12
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2011-11-16
campsites: BC(30/10,4600m),ABC(03/11,5500m),C1(04/11,5700m),C2(10/11,6000m),C3(11/11,6300m),Smt(12/11)
agency: Arun Treks (Jamling)
routememo:
  Soo, Low, Rasapran, Yap, Phujung, Temba, Densa, Pasang, Ngima and Jamling started from C3 from summit at 6:15 am. Soo, Pasang and Temba got to the top at 11:30 am and they stayed on the summit between 30-45 minutes. Last ones to reach summit were Low, Densa and Phujung. Rest of members and Sherpas reached summit in between. They stayed on summit about 5 minutes, then descended to C3 where first lot reached at 3 pm and last ones at 6 pm. Next day they went to C1. On 13 Nov all got to BC.

  Sherpas:
    Phujung Bhote, Hatiya-1
    Temba Tshering Bhote, Hungung, Farang, VDC, Sankhuwasabha, Ever X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Densa Bhote, 30/10/8
    Pasang Bhote, died Ev 2008
    Ngima/Nima Grimen Sherpa, Gudel-9, Everest X3, Dhaulagiri X1 31/3/82
    Jamling Bhote, 28/12/77, Hatiya-1, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X2


expid: AMAD11322
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Javier Magallon
sponsor: Ama Dablam Spanish Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Tengboche->Chhukung->Island Peak BC->Dingboche
bcdate: 2011-11-03
smtdate: 2011-11-11
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2011-11-19
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak on 2 Nov by Catalan and Magallion
campsites: BC(03/11,4600m),C1(05/11,5800m),C3(10/11,6300m),Smt(11-12,16/11)
agency: Dawa Sherpa
routememo:
  Magallon and Dawa Nurbu left C3 at about 5 am for summit. They reached summit at 11 am and stayed on summit for about 30 minutes. They descended at C3 at about 1:30 pm, rest there for 30 minutes and continued to descend to C2 where they arrived at 5 pm (approx). Next day they went to BC. The weather on summit day was bit windy, cold and clear. They were the first to go to summit on that day.

  On 12 Nov, Vilaplana and Dawa Chhiri left C3 at 7:30 am. They got to the top around 1 pm, stayed there about 15 minutes and returned to C3 between 3:30-4 pm. Next day Vilaplana and Dawa Chhiri went down to BC. The summit day weather was bit windy but clear.

  On 16 Nov Catalan and Dawa C3 at 7:30 am they got to the top around 12:40 pm, stayed on summit between 10-15 minutes then returned C3 around 4:30 pm. Next day they went down to BC. The summit day weather was mostly cloudy.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Nurbu Sherpa, 26/6/82, Yilajung, Khumbu
    Dawa Chhiri, 20/2/67, Kurima, Lokhim-9, Solu, Everest X3, Makalu X3, Cho Oyu X3,
      Manaslu X2, Dhaulagiri X1
    Dawa

accidents:
  Vilaplana suffered from HAS on 12 Nov while descending to BC (he was evacuated on 15 Nov by helicopter to Kathmandu)


expid: AMAD12101
peakid: AMAD
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Ueli Steck
sponsor: Khumbu Express II to Ama Dablam, Tawoche & Everest
countries: USA
approach: Lobuje East
bcdate: 2012-03-25
smtdate: 2012-03-27
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2012-03-29
othersmts: Climbed Everest on 18 May (EVER-121-07)
campsites: BC(25/03,4700m),C3(26/03,6100m),Smt(27/03)
agency: Royal Orchid Treks
routememo:
  Team left C3 at 8 am. Good conditions, good weather. Windy they descended to C1, where they arrived at 5 pm. The following day to BC.

  Wilkinson left for home afterwards. Steck continued on to Everest. They did not get anywhere on Tawoche due to dry conditions.


expid: ANN111301
peakid: ANN1
year: 2011
route1: NW Face (Messner Spr 1985 rte)
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Jean Troillet
sponsor: Swiss-Franco Annapurna Expedition
countries: France
approach: By road KTM to Beni
bcdate: 2011-09-08
smtdate: 2011-09-20
termdate: 2011-09-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to Troillet sickness
campsites: BC(08/09,5000m),xxx(20/09,6000m)
agency: Sherpa & Swiss Adventures
routememo:
  The plan was to scale Annapurna I by the seldom attempted Messner route of spring 1985 on the NW Face. But they got no higher than 6000m before illness struck Troillet and the climb was abandoned.

  They made their BC as Messner had made his, on the left side of the Mristi Khola, at 4000m on 8 September. On the 19th, they moved up to 5200m for Troillet and Fredriksen to acclimatize and Deurient to film them; they bivouacked here.

  On the 20th, Troillet and Fredriksen climbed up to 6000m, where they had planned to make their second bivouac. But Troillet had a bacterial infection that he had contracted at BC and a problem with his balance. They decided on the 26th to abandon the climb and left BC the next day by helicopter.

  Troillet said he and Fredriksen had liked the route, but they didn't know whether they would like to try it again. Troillet would like to return to Nepal but "for some small climbs."


expid: ANN111302
peakid: ANN1
year: 2011
route1: S Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Park Young-Seok
sponsor: Park's Annapurna South Face Expedition
approach: Nayafaly->Brethebi->New Bridge->Chirung
bcdate: 2011-10-03
smtdate: 2011-10-18
termdate: 2011-10-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to fatal accident
campsites: BC(03/10,4300m),ABC(12/10,5200m),xxx(18/10,6300m)
accidents: 3 members (Park, Kang, Shin) killed in crevasse fall
agency: NE-KO Treks
routememo:
  BC   on 3 Oct first team and on 5 Oct second team at 4300m
  ABC  at 5200m
  High pt at 6300m at 60-degree snow face (face starts approx from 5600m).

  Gim, Kang, Lee, Park and Shin started on South Face from ABC at 7 pm on 17 October. The team arrived at 5600m at 4 am of 18 October. Gim and Lee turned around to ABC from 5600m due to their weak physical condition. Kang, Park and Shin continued their climb. Around mid-day snow shower and rock fall started on the route when the three climbers arrived at 6300m. Communication failed between climbers and ABC. Two members went up to 5600m searching for the three climbers, but there were no traces of them. Lee said that climbers traversed between 200m-250m west to east at the altitude of 5600m, then continued straight up to 6300m. There were crevasses just below 5600m, the climbers might have fell into crevasses and buried by falling rocks and snow.

  On 19 October another attempt of search was done for three hours but could not find any trace of the missing climbers; then the team went down to ABC as there was risk of avalanche. On 20 October two members with four Sherpas started their search for the missing climbers. On 21 October three Korean climbers You Hak-Jae, Kim Hyung-Il and Jang Ji-Myung reached ABC and joined the search team which continued until 23 October. Again the search started with five-member Korean search team (Kim Jae-Soo, Kim Chang-Ho, Koo Eun-Soo, Jin Jae-Chang and Kang Seung-Kyu) with 11 Sherpas from 25 to 28 October, but the team failed to trace any sign of bodies.

  The remaining two members and the search team left BC on 30 October.

  The search postponed until next year summer.


expid: ANN111303
peakid: ANN1
year: 2011
route1: N Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Masamike Takine
sponsor: Team Triangle Annapurna I Expedition
bcdate: 2011-09-03
smtdate: 2011-09-18
termdate: 2011-09-20
termnote: Abandoned at 5000m due to earthquake and unstable conditions on the mountain
campsites: BC(03/09,4200m),C1(18/09,5000m),xxx
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Soon after arrival at Base Camp the base camp keeper (Ms. Nishino) got severe cerebral edema and had to be airlifted along with the leader (Mr. Takine) back to Kathmandu. The condition of Ms. Nishino was severe and the leader ended up staying in Kathmandu for more than 2 weeks and in the end had to accompany her back to Japan. 2 members stayed at base camp and they went as high as Camp 1 on 18 Sept but soon after returning to base camp on the same day, an earthquake measuring 6.9 on the Richter scale had rocked the mountain. According to Mr. Nishida and Mr. Nishimura, the whole mountain shook and mass avalanche followed soon after. After that ordeal, the leader Mr. Takine from Kathmandu decided to abandon this expedition.


expid: ANN112101
peakid: ANN1
year: 2012
route1: N Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Rosa Fernandez
sponsor: Rosa to Annapurna I and Dhaulagiri I
bcdate: 2012-03-29
smtdate: 2012-04-18
termdate: 2012-05-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to deep avalanches, too dangerous
campsites: BC(29/03,4200m),C1(04/04,5100m),C2(06/04,5700m),C3(18/04,6400m),xxx(18/04)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  29 Mar  4200m
  C1  04 Apr  5100m
  C2  06 Apr  5700m
  C3  18 Apr  6400m
  HPt 18 Apr  6400m by Fernandez and Dorchi.

  Fernandez and Dorchi joined Carlos Soria and his team for their first summit attempt on 17 April. On 18 April the team was in their tents at C3 when an avalanche hit the camp. Nobody was hurt, but some of the tents were destroyed. The next day everyone descended to BC. During the descent, another avalanche happened between C2 and C1 at about 11 am. The avalanche did not hurt anyone, they just got dusted.

  On 1 May, Fernandez and Dorchi left BC directly to C2. They stayed one night. There was another avalanche at 8 am, but it did not hit C2. On 2 May they went to the plateau at 5700m and saw another avalanche. That's when they decided to abandon the summit attempt and descend to BC. They wanted to wait for better weather, but when it did not improve they decided to abandon expedition. They thought the mountain was too dangerous and there were too many avalanches.

  Fernandez left BC by helicopter on 5 May.

  Oxygen: Taken, not used

  Sherpas:
    Dorchi, Walung, Makalu-9, Makalu-Barun, 1/12/79, Everest X1, Lhotse X1,
      Makalu X2, Manaslu X1


expid: ANN112102
peakid: ANN1
year: 2012
route1: N Face
nation: India
leaders: Basanta Kumar Singha Roy
sponsor: West Bengal Annapurna I Expedition
approach: Lete->Thulobugin Pass->Hom Khola->Mristi Khola
bcdate: 2012-04-09
smtdate: 2012-04-20
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2012-04-24
campsites: BC(09/04,4190m),C1(12/04,5000m),C2(14/04,6000m),C3(18/04,6800m),C4(19/04,7300m),Smt(20/04)
agency: Loben Expeditions
routememo:
  Singha Roy, Biswas and Pemba left C4 at 10 pm on 19 April for summit. They arrived at 10 am on 20 April, stayed on summit for 10 minutes and returned to C4 at 3 pm. Next day on 21 April they spent the night at C2. On 22 April they descended to BC. Summit day weather was good. Chinese climbers Yang, Rao and their Sherpa were ahead of Singha Roy team. The American woman with Sherpas were behind the Indian team.

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Chhuti Sherpa, 15/07/73, Yaphu-9, Makalu, Everest X5, Makalu X1


  Note: Several photos and comments have surfaced that give doubts to the status of all the summiters on 20 April 2012 for Annapurna I.

  One set of photos show the Indian team of Debasish Biswas and Basanta Singha Roy standing 50-60m below the top of the summit ridge with a climber dressed in red climbing towards the summit ridge high in the background.

  Another set of photos show the Chinese team of Yang Chun-Feng and Rao Jian-Feng (dressed in red) near the crest of the summit ridge. One Chinese and two Sherpas are shown on top of the crest and one Chinese and one Sherpa are shown as stopping below the crest. It also appears that the Chinese team did not proceed along the crest of the summit ridge to the true summit that is 20-50m further away in an upwardly horizontal direction.

  The widow of Rao states that her husband told her that Rao summited, but not Yang. Both Rao and Yao were killed in June 2013 when the base camp at Nanga Parbat was attacked by terrorists.

  Other comments put the American team of Cleo Weidlich and her Sherpa either above or below the Indian team, but not at the summit ridge.

  For the above reasons, these ascents are being marked as “disputed.”


expid: ANN112103
peakid: ANN1
year: 2012
route1: N Face
nation: Hungary
leaders: Laszlo Mecs
sponsor: First Hungarian Annapurna Expedition
approach: Bule->Lete
bcdate: 2012-04-18
smtdate: 2012-05-06
termdate: 2012-05-09
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to fatigue and cold
agency: Seven Summit Treks
campsites:
  BC(18/04,4200m),C1(20/04,5000m),C2(21/04,5500m),C3(03/05,6400m),C4(04/05,6800m),C5(05/05,7200m),xxx(06/05,7500m)

routememo:
  BC  18 Apr  4200m
  C1  20 Apr  5000m
  C2  21 Apr  5500m
  C3  03 May  6400m
  C4  04 May  6800m
  C5  05 May  7200m
  HPt 06 May  7500m by Eross at 3 am.

  Eross left C5 at 10 pm on 5 May. Weather was clear, but very cold. There was knee-deep snow. He was the last of the group who had also left that morning. Eross felt very tired and not properly acclimatized, so he decided to turn back at 7500m at 3 am. He decended to C5, where  he had a rest and continued to C3, where he arrived at 4 pm. The following day he descended to BC.

  Mecs reached C2 on 26 April. It was on his second acclimatization rotation, however, he decided not to join summit attempt as he did not feel acclimatized well enough.

  Horvath joined Eross to attempt the summit (they left BC on 1 May). He reached C4 on 4 May and on 5 May he decided to abandon summit attempt as he was too tired and did not feel strong enough. He left C4 at 8 am on 5 May.

  He called the base camp manager from C3 at 4 pm to tell him that he was going to continue all the way to BC. That was the last time they heard from him before he disappeared. His teammates think that he was swept away by an avalanche in the gully between C2 and C3. Mecs tried to go up from BC to look for Horvath, but there was too much snow, so he did not get there. A search would have been impossible. When Eross descended to BC on 7 May from his summit attempt, he looked for Horvath, but could not find any traces.

  On 9 May the team left by helicopter.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


expid: ANN411301
peakid: ANN4
year: 2011
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Helmuth Zieser
sponsor: Radentheiner Annapurna Expedition
bcdate: 2011-10-13
smtdate: 2011-10-16
termdate: 2011-10-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(13/10,4820m),C1(5500m),C2(16/10,6200m),xxx
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Email from Rudolf Leeb, member of Annapurna IV Exp. Autumn 2011

  Hallo Mr. Ang Tshering!!!

  As a member of  Austrian Mt. Annapurna IV (7525m) Expedition want to give some facts for your information. After trekking from Jomosom to Manang we reached base camp on 13 Oct. We started to explore, debouch and ensure with ropes the way up to camp 1 (5500m) and camp 2 (6200m). On 20 and 21 Oct we had two days with snowfall. A team of 3 members, staying at camp 1 during this time, tried to ascent higher from there. Because of too much snow and obviously danger of avalanche, they were forced to resign and descend to base camp. On 24 Oct a small team together with the two climbing Sherpas started a new attempt of ascent. Because of the unchanged situation (deep snow and dangerous) they had to turn back between camp 1 and camp 2. We had to realize, that it would be impossible to reach summit during the 3 or 4 remaining days and canceled.

  Nevertheless we can confirm best service to ASIAN TREKKING and recommend this agency. Many thanks and greetings from Austria. - Rudolf Leeb


expid: ARNK11301
peakid: ARNK
year: 2011
route1: E side
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Jamie McGuinness
sponsor: Project Himalaya Arniko Chuli 2011
countries: Australia, Canada, Germany, Netherlands, UK, USA
approach: Lo Manthang->Kekyap La
bcdate: 2011-10-11
smtdate: 2011-10-11
termdate: 2011-10-12
termnote: Abandoned at 5500m due to having climbed other 6000ers
campsites: BC(11/10,5500m),xxx(11/10,5500m)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  The team had already climbed several other 6000m peaks (unnamed) on their approach route that were more accessible. Arniko Chuli is a long way away from anywhere according to McGuinness. They left BC the following day and trekked back and climbed another peak that was marked on some more maps as 6194m.


expid: BARU12101
peakid: BARU
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge from W
nation: Japan
leaders: Ryuseki Hiraoka
sponsor: Mountain Experience Baruntse Expedition 2012
approach: From Makalu BC
bcdate: 2012-04-15
smtdate: 2012-04-28
termdate: 2012-05-01
agency: Mountain Experience
campsites:
  BC(15/04,4700m),ABC(19/04,5700m),C1.Sherpas(20/04,6000m),C1.Mbrs(26/04,6000m),C2(27/04,6500m),xxx(28/04,6900m)

routememo:
  BC  at Makalu BC
  ABC just at end of East Col
  C1  just on east side of West Col
  C2  on SE Ridge on flat area
  High point almost to summit.

  Report from E. Hawley:

  The team sent three members and three Sherpas in their summit team, and the party got so close to the top -- they reached perhaps 7100m on their 7129m high mountain -- that they declared they had summited. But they had stopped when they confronted a huge crevasse on the SE Ridge that was three or four meters across the full width of the ridge [other teams placed this crevasse at 6900m].

  The members of the party were Hiraoka, Ms. Takiguchi, Wariishi, Dawa Chhiri, Pemba Chhiri and Nawang Gechoo. They had left C2 at 5:30 am on 28 April, and at about 11:30 am had reached the crevasse and decided they had summited. They returned to C1 at 4:30 pm for the night.

  Their approach route had been the unusual one of approaching from the east. Their BC had been Makalu BC at 4700m. Now on their return from Baruntse, they descended to the usual Baruntse BC site across the West Col at 5500m on the west side of the Col near a lake.

  Two members were not in the summit party:

  Ms. Shirai stopped her ascent at C2 because she was too tired to carry on. She waited for the summit party and descended with them.

  Toji had fallen on 15 April when he was about 200m below BC and had injured his ribs. He continued to C1 on the 26th with the team, but after sleeping there that night, he went down to their future BC near the lake, and left the expedition.

  Sherpas in summit party:
    Dawa Chhiri, 20/2/67, Kurima, Lokhim, Solu, Cho Oyu X3, Dhaulagiri I X1, 
      Everest X3, Makalu X2, Manaslu X2
    Pemba Chhiri, 10/10/75? 18/10/75?, Kurima, Lokhim, Solu, Everest
    Nawang Gechho, 41 yrs old, Lokhim-9, Solu


  Report from B. Bierling:

  Team left C2 on 28 Apr at 5:30 am. They were the only people on the mountain. When they reached the crevasse at about 7029m at 11:45 am they tried to work out how to cross it. However as they had no ladders, they quickly decided to abandon the expedition as it was impossible to get over. 

  They descended to C1 where they arrived at 4:40 pm. The following day they descended to BC and they left BC on 1 May.

  Shigeo Toji reached C1 on 26 Apr. During their approach to BC he slipped and fell and bruised his chest. He never recovered from it. 

  Ms. Kazumi Shirai reached C2. She had not been feeling well during their ascent and decided to wait for the team to come back from their summit attempt at C2.


expid: CHOY11337
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Hirotaka Takeuchi
sponsor: Cho Oyu Expedition 2011
bcdate: 2011-09-02
smtdate: 2011-09-30
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2011-10-04
campsites: BC(02/09,4900m),ABC(05/09,5700m),C1(09/09,6400m),C2(16/09,7130m),Smt(30/09)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C2 reached on 29 Sept. So at 1 am on 30 Sept, team departed from C2. Maybe two other teams also, don't know which. No oxygen, no Sherpas. Conditions very cold. In the night clear and cold, good trail from C2 to C3, so route conditions good. Arrived 4 am at C3 with easy walk. Caught up with Amical just outside of C3. Tshering Nima (sirdar) said snow was deep and could not find the ropes, so they turned back.

  Team climbed up to the rock band after Amical turned around. Below rock band not so much snow. Found Korean white rope and fixed about 200m. Started from rock band and finished through both sections of rock band. After that arrived on the big snow slope without rope.

  Found some faint evidence of Korean trail laft after big winds. Conditions that week were big winds, so lots of blown snow, some parts hard, some parts soft. Not so much deep snow.

  Here almost no wind. 30 minutes before summit was mostly no wind, quiet, beautiful weather. Could see Everest, Lhotse. Summit at 1 pm.

  Koreans said they left oxygen bottle, but could not find it. Nothing we could find. Korean leader said below summit was a bamboo stick and a flag, but not on the summit; its farther. Could not find either.

  Team did not leave anything on top. 10 minutes on top, still very cold, a little bit windy.

  Hiro lost the way down, so the two members split. Hiro went down another route. One hour later, he remembered that he went wrong way, so returned back up to the right way, just below the plateau.

  Hiro reported that he slept on the way down above the rock band. Slept out due to being too tired. Hiro slept clipped to the fixed rope, maybe a few hours ("I don't know exactly."). Then somebody came up with some clients from below using a head torch that shined directly into his face. Hiro woke up and continued down to C2.

  Kenro went down right way the whole way. Sun was down, was dark. With the head torch, down, down, down.

  Returned to ABC on 1 Oct, arrived at 6 pm. Cleared C2 and C1.


expid: CHOY11309
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: Colombia
leaders: Camilo Lopez
countries: USA
smtdate: 2011-10-01
termnote: Abandoned at 7685m due to high winds and cold fingers (Lopez)
campsites: BC(06/09,5000m),ABC(08/09,5685m),C1(6475m),C2(09/22,7400m),C3(01/10,7685m),xxx
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Cho-Oyu North Ridge Exp. Final Report - Camilo Lopez/Ann Pfaff - 9 Nov 2011

  We decided to start our final summit attempt on the 29th of September. The big snow storm had stopped so with a few days of good enough weather, we would hit the upper mountain. Many other teams were also heading up to attempt the summit.

  In the morning we had an early start, we brought along another sleeping bag to increase our comfort, as we has been using one just to save weight on our days carrying our gear up the mountain. we also packed some food and lots of Gatorade.

  We were set. We had planned on a 4-day trip and maybe one for descent... The attempt to the main summit would be on the 2nd of October. Everything was planned like that, Tshiring the Sherpa who was working with the Italians organized Yaks, Jeeps etc, for our departure for the 4th so we could reach Kathmandu before the 6th. On the 6th the Hinduism festival would start and was celebrated throughout the whole week so everything is closed. It is celebrated by everyone.

  The weather looked OK and there was no signs of wind or snow. The temperatures had been dropping since our arrival in early September. We hiked quickly along the moraine and dry glacier towards the "killer slope". The 45+ degree steep mud cliff that leads us to camp one. I started up ahead only thinking on the condition of our tent. The storm had been really strong and there were stories of stranded climbers and their tents collapsing. I arrived to find our tent intact! It was covered in snow but it was fine. I climbed down to the tent, cleared some snow and opened the door in search of our shovle. As I looked inside I find out the tent has no holes!! Great!! I start shoveling out the tent and soon after Anna arrived at camp and took care of drying the gear from inside while I dug out the tent.

  On the morning of the 30th we started up to Camp 2. We figure that the first time it had taken us 7 hours with the loads and poor acclimatization. We could do it in maybe 6 or faster. We started up at 11 am, it was perfect weather, no clouds and no wind, just very cold. We had a good pace from the start, our acclimatization had paid off, in two hours we reached the steep serac that divides part of the ridge, quickly we climbed it to find at the top the Italians resting. we sat down for a few minutes but decided to continue. Pretty soon I arrived to Camp 2 at 7400m dropped my pack turned around and there was Anna, just a few minutes after, she had gotten caught up behind some climbers on the fixed ropes. We rested for a minute and set up camp.

  Our strategy had already been discussed and agreed that we were going to set up a Camp 3 at 7685m just below the rock band.

  The weather was still good. it was very cold though, even in the sun.

  On the morning of the 1st we awoke to great weather no wind and no clouds, we climbed the steep slope between Camp 2 and 3 relatively quick but were stopped just before the rock band because of descending climbers that had attempted the summit the night before. We waited for about half an hour in that time it got really windy and cold, I was wearing only liners on my hands and didn't realize the worst... I was getting frozen. I put my hand inside my down suit and it felt a little better, so I continued up but the higher we went the more windy and very cold it got, just before camp I couldn't hold the pole any more and I noticed I couldn't move my fingers. Pretty soon I put both my hands inside my suit and continued to camp. On my arrival I stopped at the Italians tent and ask for aid in the meantime while Anna arrived. They tried to warm up my hand but it was not working so good. As soon as Anna arrived she set up the tent and organized camp. We got into the tent and Anna heated up water to re warm my fingers. She also massaged them and examined them for blisters or discoloration. They looked okay so we warmed them with the hot water bottle and massage. In the meantime the wind was gusting stronger and stronger. The spindrift was coming in all the vents and soon our sleeping bag was covered in soft white powder. We also had icicles forming inside the tent!  Needless to say it was a long cold night. We discussed our options. We both know going up in the storm was out of question and going down right then was very dangerous. We did not have enough time to stay another day at Camp 3 and with the condition of my fingers I wanted to head down asap. So we decided to hang there a little longer maybe until the early morning light and head back to Camp 2.

  During the night the storm was so intense we wondered that we could get blown of the mountain!! Because we were on a carved platform on a very steep slope, the snow was going to give way underneath us!! Needless to say it was a very long night!! I was anxious because my hand was still feeling weird. I thought to myself that no mountain was worth a digit or a toe.

  Finally around 7 am the storm eased with intermittent gusts of wind, quickly we decided this was it, so we packed our gear really quick got out of the tent, stuffed the tent into the pack and started our decent, with the hope the wind was not going to be so strong in the lower mountain.

  We got all of our storm gear on and started down without even thinking twice. We battled the slope the whole way down but made it down to Camp 2 in one piece. we rested for about half an hour and quickly decided to continue down. Being in that kind of storm at that altitude was not very fun and it was very intense experience  at one point it just turns into survival mode...

  That night we reached base bamp, we gather our thoughts of the climb and went to sleep totally spent.

  We succeeded on this expedition by learning unique experiences that only go on at extreme high altitudes and by coming back home in one piece. Some climbers paid the ultimate price on this expedition reminding us that what is most important in the mountain is life.


expid: CHOY11339
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: Belgium
leaders: Urbain Lenaerts
sponsor: Belgium Cho Oyu 2011
bcdate: 2011-09-08
smtdate: 2011-10-03
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2011-10-06
agency: Adventure Zambuling Treks
campsites:
  BC(08/09,4900m),IC(5200m),ABC(10/09,5700m),C1(16/09,6400m),C2(20/09,7100m),C3(02/10,7550m),Smt(03/10)

routememo:
  Route details given on team web site at 

    http://bergstijgerskempen.be/ChoOyu/deelnemers.html  (in Dutch)                                                                                        
  Hired:
    Ngima Dorje Tamang, 03/12/1973, Gorakhani-7 Solukhumbu
    Pemba Tamang, 15/04/73, Taksindu-3, Solukhumbu


expid: CHOY11315
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Antonin Pekar
sponsor: Czechs on Cho Oyu
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
smtdate: 2011-09-23
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to fatal accident
campsites: xxx(23/09,6900m)
accidents: Krpec died on 23 or 24 September
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Krpec died on 23 or 24 September. Other climbers saw dead body hanging on fixed rope between C1 and C2.


expid: CHOY11316
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Josef Simunek
sponsor: Cho Oyu Expedition 2011
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2011-09-16
smtdate: 2011-10-07
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2011-10-11
campsites: BC(16/09),ABC(18/09),C1(21/09),C2(26/09),Smt(07/10)
agency: Sherpa Adventure Travel
routememo:
  Becvar, Folovska, Hlaskova, Moraviek, Budny, Simunek and Lhakpa started their summit push from C2 on 6 Oct at 11:30 pm (NST). Folovska and Hlaskova turned around from 7400m (approx) to C2. Moravek reached summit at 10 am on 7 Oct. Rest of climbers and Lhakpa in between, last one reached to the top at 1 pm. The climbers spent time on summit between 15 minutes to one hour. The team returned to C2 between 2 pm to 8 pm. Next day all descended to BC. The summit day weather was excellent, no wind, good pictures.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Dorje, 16/11/1961, Sanam, Gudel-4, Cho Oyu X3, Everest X6, 
      Kangchenjunga X1, Lhotse X1, Makalu X3


expid: CHOY11319
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: Poland
leaders: Lukasz Stebelski
sponsor: Stebelski First 8000m expedition
bcdate: 2011-09-10
smtdate: 2011-10-01
smttime: 0937
termdate: 2011-10-06
campsites: CBC(10/09,4900m),ABC(13/09,5700m),C1(18/09,6400m),C2(20/09,7200m),C3(30/09,7600m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  Lukasz Stebelski (email) - 22 Nov 2012

  Below are the data points you requested:

  (1) Camp site dates and altitudes (including BC arrival and departure dates)
  Camps in regular locations: 
  -Chinese Camp reached on 10 Sep, 
  -Base camp at 5700m reached on 13 Sep, 
  -Camp 1 at 6400m reached on 18 Sep. 
  -Camp 2 at 7200m reached on 20 Sep, 
  -Camp 3 at 7600m reached on 30 Sep. 
  Base camp left on the way back on 6 Oct

  (2) Summit details (date and time, etc.)

  October 1 at 9.37am Nepalese time, together with my Sherpa. We started the summit attack at midnight Nepalese time.

  (3) Did you use any Sherpas (and if so, who were they)?

  I had Pema Sherpa with me, supplied by the Snowy Horizon agency

  (4) Did you use oxygen for climbing or sleeping?

  I used one bottle during the last stage of the summit attack, from ca. 8000m altitude to the summit and back to 8000m

  (5) Any other relevant information about the climb would be appreciated.

  I used the services of Snowy Horizon agency (contact Rishi Bhandari reshi_2010@yahoo.com)

  We experienced earthquake on 18 Sep while in Camp 1 during an acclimatization night. Our first summit attempt was 24-27 Sep, but this failed due to bad weather and we returned after 1 night in Camp 2. During the 1st attempt: we experienced a major snowstorm, met the body of dead Czech climber on ropes at the seracs (6700m), and had avalanche in Camp 1. This avalanche covered a number of tents. One of them we undug, saving 2 climbers from Monterosa expedition (Ales Ort and Lucia Lopez Ferrandes). We also searched for another one of their participants, but could not find his tent. Later we learned that he died covered by the snow in his sleeping bag. His tent was completely covered by snow. Our second, successful attempt was on 28 Sep-2 Oct.


expid: CHOY11321
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Victor Saunders
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Cho Oyu Expedition 2011
countries: Australia, Italy, New Zealand, Poland, Switzerland
bcdate: 2011-09-04
smtdate: 2011-09-30
termdate: 2011-10-03
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to difficulty fixing the rope at the rock band
campsites: BC(04/09,4900m),ABC(08/09,5700m),C1(14/09,6430m),C2(20/09,7000m),xxx(30/09,7800m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  High point team started their summit push from C2. The weather was good. However the Sherpas couldn't fix the rope on the summit day. They were told by the Chinese there was rope and snowstakes (they were meant to fix it and we had all paid them too), but our boys only found 5 stakes, not enough to make it safe. The team turned back and descended to C2, where they spent the night. On 1 Oct they descended to ABC.

  Dale West reached C1 on 14 September, but felt the altitude so he called it a day after that first visit and returned to ABC on 15 Sept. He left the expedition on 17 Sept.

  Oxygen: from 7200m to high point to 7200m.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Jangbu
    Pemba Chhoti
    Nawang Chhangba
    Kami Rita
    Sange Dorje


expid: CHOY11322
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Thomas Merkel
sponsor: Amical Alpin Cho Oyu Expedition 2011
countries: Austria, Italy
bcdate: 2011-09-03
smtdate: 2011-09-30
termdate: 2011-10-04
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to cold and wind
campsites: CBC(03/09,5000m),ABC(05/09,5990m),C1(11/09,6400m),C2(16/09,7130m),C3(29/09,7550m),xxx(30/09,7700m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  On their summit attempt, the team left C3 at 3:30 am (NST). It was very cold and very windy. When they reached 7700m, Merkel decided to turn the group around due to extremely high winds and cold. They descended all the way to ABC, where they arrived late in the afternoon. The following day they stayed at ABC and on 2 Oct they descended to BC.

  7700m reached by Bauer, Burchard, Gruber, Paul Hennig, Thomas Hennig, Kellerer-Pirklbauer, Maderebner, Merkel, Reis, Rocci Denis, Schmid, Stein, Worbs,  Chuldim, Pasang Tendi, Jangbu at 5 am.

  No rope fixed by Merkel's team. No accidents or injuries.

  Sherpas:
    Chuldim, Khumjung, Khumbu, 10/9/71
    Pasang Tendi, Kharikhola, Solukhumbu, 25/11/1974


expid: CHOY11323
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Brien Sheedy
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Cho Oyu Expedition 2011
countries: UK
bcdate: 2011-09-06
smtdate: 2011-10-04
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2011-10-06
campsites: BC(06/09,4900m),ABC(10/09,5700m),C1(16/09,6400m),C2(21/09,7000m),C3(03/10,7500m),Smt(04/10)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  Departed C3 at 2:10 am in calm and cold conditions, but not extreme cold. No clouds, could see stars.

  7:30 am summit on 4 Oct by Clarke, Sheedy and Kami; stayed 1 hour. Lhakpa arrived with Matter at 8:30 am, stayed less tham 5 minutes. No one else on summit with them.

  Early morning hours of 4th, Brien reports (about) 17 Chinese and Tibetan guides also summited during the previous night. No idea when they departed C3, but likely early evening as they summited in the dark. Lots of crampon points on the summit, so had to be them as wind on the 3rd Oct would have blown previous tracks away.

  Conditions on summit 5 mph wind. Descended back to C1 arriving around 5 pm.

  Brien saw the injured Pepe accompanied by someone between C2 and C3 mid-morning on the 3rd, just at the traverse. Older man was sitting down and saw that I had a radio, so it took a while to get from him what he wanted. Eventually understood that he needed help the following day getting injured climber from C2 to ABC. Made a radio call to base camp to AAI cook to inform the injured climber's team.

  Three Chinese summited after AAI that day (Chinese and Tibetan guides). They were close to ridge line on plateau on Ozark gear when AAI passed them.

  A French woman later reported to Lhakpa and Brien, in Tatopani while heading home, that she summited later in the day as well (9:30-10:00 am). Brien does not remember seeing her, "but I don't know."


expid: CHOY11324
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: Canada
leaders: Elia Saikaly
sponsor: Finding Life 2011
countries: UK
bcdate: 2011-09-21
smtdate: 2011-10-02
smttime: 0915
termdate: 2011-10-05
othersmts: Summited Lobuche East on 14 Sept
campsites: BC(21/09,4900m),ABC(24/09,5700m),C1(28/09,6400),C2(01/10,7100m),Smt(02/10)
agency: Mountain Tribes Trekking
routememo:
  Saikaly and Dawa Sherpa went from C1 on 30 Sept. Next day they arrived at C2 at 3 pm and began summit push at 1-1:30 am on 2 Oct. Windy, cold conditions with snow blowing everywhere.

  Above the shoulder the wind quieted down; only windy again high on the plateau. Arrived at the summit at 9:15 am, then descended to ABC.


expid: CHOY11326
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Andreas Neuschmid
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Cho Oyu Expedition 2011
countries: Austria, Belgium, Germany, Italy
bcdate: 2011-09-08
smtdate: 2011-10-01
smttime: 0515
termdate: 2011-10-04
campsites: BC(08/09,4900m),ABC(12/09,5700m),C1(17/09,6350m),C2(18/09,7050m),C3(30/09,7400m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  3 Sherpas (Nurbu, Pemba and Kusang) went to C3 on 30 Sept with the main team, then fixed rope to the shoulder (~8000m), returned to C3, then left again for the summit with the main team.

  Drexler and Luethi departed for summit on 30 Sept from C2, but turned around at 7200m due to exhaustion. 

  The main team plus 3 Sherpas departed for the summit from C3 at midnight of 30 Sept. The weather was clear, but cold. When Dussex and Schloeder reached 7500m, Schloeder had very cold feet and Dussex was exhausted, so they decided to turn back. They returned to C2 where they stayed the night. Peeraer reached an altitude of 7800m, but turned back due to cold feet.

  The rest of the team summited without any problems between 7:30 and 11:30 am (CST).

    7:30 am - Neuschmid, J Diez, S Diez, Kreienbuhl, Pedevilla, Norbu
    9:30 am - Hanf, Scholz
   11:30 am - Haberl with Pemba or Kusang
    ???? am - Bernhard, Mayr, Thallmair

  They descended to C2 where they arrived between 2 pm and 5 pm. The following day they all descended to BC.

  Resing reached 7000m on 18 Sept, but did not carry on due to lack of mental strength (fear of avalanching); he left Sept 25.

  Zimmermann reached 7000m on 18 Sept, but did not carry on due to exhaustion.

  Oxygen: not used, not taken

  Resing was the only member intending to use oxygen.

  Rope fixing: 700m over the yellow band and above

  Sherpas:
    Nurbu Chhiring, Balakharka, 27/9/80
    Pemba, Ghunsa, Lelep-9, Taplejung, 9/7/82
    Kusang Tenzing, Lelep-9, Taplejung, 16/5/86


expid: CHOY11327
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Joerg Henning
bcdate: 2011-09-07
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to death by snow burial in C1 tent during snowstorm
campsites: BC(07/09,4900m),ABC(5700m),C1(6400m),xxx(6400m)
agency: Eco-Friendly Treks (Monterosa Treks pmt)
routememo:
  Chris Suggitt (email) - 21 Nov 2012

  Joerg was killed in an avalanche at camp 1, we think it was on the 26th. He did not get to Camp 2 during his time on the mountain.


  Eric Simonson (email) - 22 Nov 2012

  Ang Jangbu told me he was with Monterosa and that he died in a tent at camp 1; that was buried by snow (not an avalanche, just lots of snow). Apparently nobody checked on him, they just left him up there???


  Lukasz Stebelski (email) - 22 Nov 2012

  During the 1st attempt: we experienced a major snowstorm, met the body of dead Czech climber on ropes at the seracs (6700m), and had avalanche in Camp 1. This avalanche covered a number of tents. One of them we undug, saving 2 climbers from Monterosa expedition (Ales Ort and Lucia Lopez Ferrandiz). We also searched for another one of their participants, but could not find his tent. Later we learned that he died covered by the snow in his sleeping bag. His tent was completely covered by snow.


  Max Bunce (IMG Leader) - 27 Nov 2012

  I remember someone getting killed when a small slide sluffed off a 20-foot wall into the main part of camp 1 just to the left after you crest onto the ridge. I think he was in his tent.


expid: CHOY11317
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: Slovakia
leaders: Juraj Rebro
sponsor: Marmoto Cho Oyu Expedition 2011
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2011-09-17
smtdate: 2011-10-07
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2011-10-11
campsites: BC(17/09,5000m),ABC(19/09,5700m),C1(21/09,6400m),C2(29/09,7100m),C3(06/10,7500m),Smt(07/10)
agency: Sherpa Adventure Travel
routememo:
  Rigoci left C3 at 1:30 am, Rebro and Tuma at 2 am for summit. Tuma turned around from 7800m to C3 as he was feeling very cold and afraid of frostbite. Rebro reached to the top at 11 am and Rigoci at 12:40 pm. Rebro stayed on summit for one hour with Czech team and returned to C3 at around 4 pm. Rigoci stayed on summit for 15 minutes and went down with Rebro. Both continued to descend to C2 where they arrived at around 6 pm and spent the night there. Next day both went down to BC. The summit day weather was good. The summiters had view of Everest, Lhotse. The team returned to Kathmandu from Kodari by helicopter. 

  Rebro, Rigoci and Tuma left BC on 9 Oct and Pastor on 11 Oct.

  Pastor went up to 6800m on 29 Sept, but did not try for the summit.


expid: DHA112101
peakid: DHA1
year: 2012
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Eduard Rifa
sponsor: Torello 8.0 to Dhaulagiri I
bcdate: 2012-04-15
smtdate: 2012-05-10
termdate: 2012-05-16
campsites: BC(15/04,4640m),C1(21/04,5820m),C2(09/05,6600m),xxx(10/05,7000m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  15 Apr  4640m
  C1  21 Apr  5820m
  C2  09 May  6500m
  HPt 10 May  7000m by Rifa and Moreno.

  High point team left C2 at 7 am. The weather was good, but a lot of snow. When they reached 7000m the rope was covered by snow and ice and the weather turned bad, so they decided to turn back. They descended to C1, where they arrived at 4 pm. The next day they descended to BC.

  Jordi reached C2 on 9 May. He did not feel well during the night and when the others went up, he went down to stay the night at C1. On the 11 May they all descended to BC, where they rested for two days and on 13 May they all went back to C1 to retrieve the gear.

  On 16 May they left BC via Dhampus Pass.

  Oxygen: not taken, not used


expid: DHA112102
peakid: DHA1
year: 2012
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Iran
leaders: Mahdi Amidi
sponsor: Iranian Dhaulagiri I Expedition
bcdate: 2012-04-10
smtdate: 2012-05-18
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2012-05-21
campsites: BC(10/04,4700m),C1(13/04,5800m),C2(18/04,6400m),C3(16/05,7200m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  BC  10 Apr  4700m
  C1  13 Apr  5800m
  C2  18 Apr  6400m
  C3  16 May  7200m
  Smt 18 May  by Amidi at 4 pm.

  Amidi left on his first summit attempt together with the Panzeri and Corona from Italy and Dawa (brother of Mingma Sherpa, who summited all 8000ers). The wind was very strong and the team stopped at the traverse at 7600m and waited for one hour for the wind to abate. While Dawa, Panzeri and Corona decided to sit out the storm, Amidi decided to go down and descended to C3, where he arrived at 9 am. 

  At 10 pm on 18 May Amidi went up again alone. At 7800m he found the bivouac of Panzeri and Carona. He had a cup of tea with them and helped them down for about 200m as Corona was struggling with his feet due to frostbite. He then carried on and at 2 pm it started to snow and get very windy. He only stayed a few minutes on the summit as the weather went bad quickly. No visibility. He descended in the snowstorm and stopped at the traverse at 7600m at 8 pm and sat out the storm until 6 am the next day. He continued his descent in better weather. He reached C3 at 10 am on 19 May. He had a rest there and left C3 at 2 pm and descended to C1, where he arrived at 7 pm. The next day back to BC. On 21 May he walked to Marpha in one day.

  Afsaei never got higher than BC. He had fallen and broken his middle finger on right hand on way to BC. He left BC 20 April.

  Ramezani reached C3 on 10 May to deposit equipment. As they were quite late in the expedition he had to leave as he had to go back to work in Iran. He left BC on 13 May.

  Oxygen: not taken, not used.


expid: EVER11301
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UAE
leaders: Saeed Al Memari
sponsor: 40th UAE Anniversary Everest Expedition 2011
approach: Lukla->Namche->Khumjung->Tengboche->Pheriche->Lobuche
bcdate: 2011-09-11
smtdate: 2011-10-06
termdate: 2011-10-08
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to bad conditions (chest-deep snow)
campsites: BC(11/09,5400m),C1(15/09,6100m),C2(21/09,6400m),C3(05/10,7200m),xxx(06/10,7700m)
agency: Bochi Bochi Treks (Asian Trekking pmt)
routememo:
  Al Memeri and Mingma Dorje along with other climbers from Czech Republic, Canada and France went up to 7700m from C3 where they encountered chest-deep snow. It was not possible for climbers to continue their climb further up, thus the climbers decided to give up their climb.

  Sherpa:
    Mingma Dorje, 30/8/80, Tashigaon, Makalu-5, summited Everest


expid: EVER11302
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Vit Morava
sponsor: 2011 C-Intech Eco Expedition
countries: Czech Republic
approach: Lukla->Namche->Thame->Khumjung->Dingboche->Pheriche->Lobuche
bcdate: 2011-09-06
smtdate: 2011-10-06
termdate: 2011-10-09
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to too much risk of avalanche
campsites: BC(06/09,5300m),C1(15/09,6300m),C2(30/09,6700m),C3(06/10,7300m),xxx(06/10,7300m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Morava brothers and their climbing Sherpas went up to 7300m on 6 Oct. The team could not continue to climb farther up due to deep snow and risk of avalanche. On 7 Oct the team went down to C2 and on 8 Oct to BC.

  Fixed rope: 600m partly between C2 and C3.

  Sherpas:
    Naga Dorje, Sirdar
    Pasang Rita, 1/7/77, Thamo, Everest X5
    Samden Bhote, 25/7/79, Hungung, Hatiya, Makalu-5, Everest 2009


expid: EVER12119
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Hugo Searle
sponsor: High Adventure Expeditions Everest 2012
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2012-04-17
smtdate: 2012-04-28
termdate: 2012-05-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to dangerous conditions
campsites: BC(17/04,5350m),C1(27/04,6000m),C2(28/04,6400m),xxx(28/04,6400m)
agency: Happy Feet Mountaineers
routememo:
  All members reached C2 on acclimatization rotation. When they got back to BC they decided to abandon expedition, especially after one of their kitchen staff was injured in the avalanche that came down from Nuptse near C1.

  Sherpas:
    Tendi Sherpa
    Karma Sherpa
    Karna [Bahadur] Tamang

    All with multiple Everest ascents.

accidents:
  C2 Sherpa cook (Nima Dawa Sherpa) was injured in large avalanche just above C1; flown to KTM with spine and rib injuries.


expid: EVER12104
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Richard Brill
sponsor: Brill to Everest
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2012-04-07
smtdate: 2012-05-12
termdate: 2012-05-16
termnote: Abandoned due to HACE
campsites: BC(07/04,5350m),C2(14/04,6300m),C3(29/04,7200m),xxx(12/05,7350m)
accidents: Altitude sickness
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  High point on 12 May at 7350m by Brill.

  On the first rotation on 29 April Brill stayed at C3 for two nights to acclimatize. Afterwards he dropped down to Dingboche for five days and came back to BC on 9 May. Brill ascended to C2 for his second rotation and stayed in C3 for one night. He was climbing with his friend Till Kramann, who was attempting Lhotse.

  On 12 May he was intending to go to the South Col but at about 7350m Brill did not feel well and was uncoordinated (he did not remember how to abseil properly). He was climbing with Till Kramann again. They turned back at about noon and descended to C2, where they arrived at 5 pm.

  The following day, he descended to BC. Brill was feeling Ok again and did not see a doctor, however, he suspects that it was a mild case of HACE (high altitude cerebral edema).

  Brill left BC on 16 May.

  Oxygen: not taken, not used.


expid: EVER12108
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Dendi Sherpa
sponsor: Sherpa Everest Expedition
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2012-04-14
smtdate: 2012-05-19
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2012-05-22
campsites: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(24/04,6000m),C2(25/04,6400m),C4(18/05,8000m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Royal Orchid Treks
routememo:
  Summit on 19 May by Dendi, Ngim Chhamji, Pem Lhakpa at 12:30 pm.

  Team never stayed at C3; on their summit attempt they moved from C2 directly to C4, which took them 9 hours.

  Team left C4 at 8 am on 18 May. They had about one hour waiting time at the Hillary Step. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit. About 15 other people were up there. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 8 pm. They were so late as the queues at the bottlenecks were so long.

  On 20 May they descended to C2 and on 21 May to BC. They left BC on 22 May and walked to Lukla.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Ngim Chhamji.
    From C4 to top to C4 by Dendi and Pem Lhakpa.

  Hired Sherpa:
    Pem Lhakpa, Nimchola, Gudel-5, 19/01/1972, 1st 8000er


expid: EVER12105
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Sweden
leaders: Petter Hiden-Rudander
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2012-04-23
smtdate: 2012-05-19
smttime: 0750
termdate: 2012-05-24
campsites: BC(23/04,5200m),ABC(27/04,6400m),C1(08/05,7000m),C2(17/05,7700m),C3(18/05,8300m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  BC  23 Apr  5200m
  ABC 27 Apr  6400m
  C1  08 May  7000m
  C2  17 May  7700m	
  C3  18 May  8300m
  Smt 19 May  by Hiden-Rudander, Chhiring Dorje at 7:50 am.

  Team left C3 at 11 pm on 18 May. Weather was good but windy. Summit was very crowded; they stayed about half an hour on the summit, then descended to ABC, where they arrived at 9:30 pm.

  On 21 May, they descended to BC and left BC on 24 May.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C1 by all Sherpas and members.

  Sherpa:
    Chhiring Dorje, Beding, Dolakha, 26/10/1974


expid: EVER12106
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Pierre Deroi
countries: New Zealand
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2012-04-07
smtdate: 2012-05-19
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2012-05-22
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East
campsites: BC(07/04,5350m),C1(19/04,6000m),C2(20/04,6500m),C3(28/04,7200m),C4(18/05,8000m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Mountain Treks
routememo:
  Summit on 19 May by Fortin, Gough, Lhakpa Nuru, Namgyal at noon.

  Summit team and Deroi left C4 at 9:30 pm on 18 May. Deroi reached the Hillary Step at about 10 am. He had been feeling sick for a while and decided to turn back. He reached C4 at 1 pm.

  The rest of the team carried on and reached the summit with about 10 other people. They spent about 30 min on the summit and descended to C4 where they arrived at 6:30 pm. On 20 May they descended to C2, and on 21 May BC.

  On 22 May they took a helicopter to Lukla.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top (or high point) to C2 by members.
    From C4 to top C4 by Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Nuru, Yilajung, Khumbu, 26/9/72, Cho Oyu X3, Everest X10
    Namgyal, Bung-9, Solu, 25/9/71, Everest X3, Kangch X1


expid: EVER12107
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Ueli Steck
sponsor: Khumbu Express II to Ama Dablam, Tawoche & Everest
countries: USA
approach: Lobuje East->Ama Dablam
bcdate: 2012-05-01
smtdate: 2012-05-18
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2012-05-20
othersmts: Climbed Ama Dablam on 27 March
campsites: BC(01/05,5350m),C2(03/05,6400m),C3(09/05,7200m),C4(10/05,8000m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Royal Orchid Treks
routememo:
  Summit on 18 May by Steck and Tenzing Sherpa at 1:30-2 pm.

  Steck took 2 hours 37 minutes from BC to C2.

  On 17 May during the summit attempt, they did not stay at C3 but went straight to C4. This was lucky as that evening a huge ice block came down and destroyed many tents at C3. They would have been hit by the ice avalanche.

  Tenzing and Steck left C4 at 12:30 am. They were climbing behind the rope fixing Sherpas. They caught up with the Sherpas at the Balcony. Weather was clear and only slightly windy. They waited for about 40 minutes at the Hillary Step for the Sherpas to fix the rope. They stayed about 10 minutes on the summit, then descended to C4, Steck arrived at 4:15 pm and Tenzing at 6:30 pm. The following day they descended to BC. Steck flew to Lukla by helicopter on 20 May.

  Oxygen: not taken, not used.

  Sherpas:
    Tenzing Sherpa, Sanam, Gudel-4, 7/3/92, 1st 8000er


expid: EVER12109
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Turkey
leaders: Muharrem Aydin Irmak
sponsor: A Turk to Everest
bcdate: 2012-04-19
smtdate: 2012-05-19
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2012-05-21
campsites: BC(19/04,5350m),C1(27/04,6100m),C2(28/04,6400m),C3(17/05,7100m),C4(18/05,7950m),Smt(19/05)
accidents: Muharrem collapsed at the Balcony
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Summit on 10 May by Irmak at 4 pm.

  Irmak left C4 at 8:30 pm on 18 May. He left without his Sherpa who did not want to come. On his way up everything was Ok. It was very windy on the summit and his two flags were taken by the wind. He spent about 10 minutes on the summit. On his way down a big storm was starting and he was trying to get down as quickly as possible. After he reached the Balcony at round 9 pm he cannot remember anything. When he was found by Ben Yehuda at 11:45 pm, who was on his way up with his Sherpa Pemba, his oxygen mask was gone. He felt delirious and Ben Yehuda and his Sherpa tried to get him up. He heard Ben Yehuda say whether he could move his legs and he could. Ben Yehuda and Pemba had to step over the dead Canadian-Nepali girl to get to Irmak. He clipped in Ben Yehuda's harness and Pemba short-roped him and they made their way down to C4 where they arrived at 6 pm.

  They rested there for 4 hours and went down to C2, where they arrived at 6 pm.

  They were rescued after Ben Yehuda called his insurance company in Israel from 6700m and they were rescued by Simone Moro in a helicopter from C2 on 21 May and were flown straight to Kathmandu via Pheriche and Lukla. He has frostbite on right hand on 4 fingers.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C4 to summit, then Irmak ran out.

  Sherpa:
    Serap/Sherap, Taktar, Beni, Solu, 8/8/1972, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X5


expid: EVER12110
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Rob Casserley
sponsor: ICE 8000 Everest Expedition 2012
countries: France, USA
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2012-04-12
smtdate: 2012-05-19
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2012-05-22
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),C1(24/04,6100m),C2(25/04,6450m),C3(17/05,7080m),C4(18/05,7950m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Summit on 19 May by Boffy, Bellworthy, Casserley, Dieumegard, Rollins, Lhakpa, Pasang Dawa, Chewang Dorje, Chheten at 6 am and Hughes and Lhakpa Wangchu at 8 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 7:45 pm - just before the crowds. No waiting time at Hillary Step. Sun came up when they were at the South Summit. They spent about 30 minutes on the summit. There were about 30 other people on the summit. They waited about half an hour near the Hillary Step and where also caught up in traffic on the route leading away [down] from the Hillary Step. Everybody arrived at C2 at noon, apart from Hughes and Lhakpa Wangchu, who arrived at 4 pm. The following day the whole team descended to BC. They left at 9 am and arrived between 3 pm and 6 pm.

  Boffy and Rollins left BC on 21 May by helicopter. The rest walked out and left BC 22 May.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members.
    Casserley from 7850m to top to 8500m.
    Taken and used by C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa, Kerung-3, Solu, 1977, Everest X2, Manaslu X1
    Pasang Dawa, Pangboche, Khumbu, 18/1/1977, Cho Oyu X5, Everest X14, Lhotse X1,
      Manaslu X1
    Chewang Dorje, Pangboche, Khumbu, 17/4/81, Everest X5
    Chheten Dorje, Pangboche, Khumbu, 28/5/1987, Everest X1
    Lhakpa Wangchu, Pangboche, Khumbu, 23/10/1986, Everest X7, Manaslu X3


expid: EVER12111
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Jesus Morales
sponsor: Spaniards to Everest
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2012-04-11
smtdate: 2012-05-19
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2012-05-22
campsites: BC(11/04,5350m),C1(17/04,6100m),C2(22/04,6400m),C3(17/05,7100m),C4(18/05,8000m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Summit on 19 May by Morales and Lhakpa Nuru at 8 am.

  Morales and Lhakpa Nuru left C4 at 7:30 pm on 18 May. Weather was good. They spent about 10 minutes on the summit with about 12 other people, then descended to C4 where they arrived at 2 pm. The following day to C2, where they arrived at 11 am. On 21 they descended to BC and on 22 May they took a helicopter back to Kathmandu.

  Pallares reached C3 on 23 April on the first acclimatization rotation. On the summit attempt he reached about 6800m, however he felt sick to his stomach and turned back to C2.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to summit by Morales.
    C4 to summit to C4 by Lhakpa Nuru.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Nuru, Tate, Khumbu, 24/6/1978, Everest X1


expid: EVER12112
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Argentina
leaders: Willi Benegas
sponsor: Patagonian Brothers Everest Expedition 2012
countries: USA
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2012-04-15
smtdate: 2012-05-25
smttime: 0818
termdate: 2012-05-30
campsites: BC(15/04,5350m),C1(24/04,6000m),C2(26/04,6500m),C3(23/05,7300m),C4(24/05,8000m),Smt(25/05)
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  Summit on 25 May Benegas, Betancourt, Carracedo, Grajales, Phurba Gyalgen, Funuru at 8:18 am.

  Summit team and Rodriguez left between 8 pm and 9 pm on 24 May. It was very windy. They only experienced short waiting times at South Summit, but waited for about 45 minutes at Hillary Step. When Rodriguez reached the Hillary Step, his cornea was frozen and he was blind on one eye. He turned back at about 7 am and descended to C4 [was accompanied by Mingma Tenji & two other Sherpas].

  Summit was very cold and windy, so they spent only 5 minutes on the summit. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 2:30 pm. Benegas put some bolts on the rock steps a the South Summit and was refining anchors. On 26 May they descended to C2 and on 27 May to BC.

  Arana never got out of BC due to altitude sickness; he left the expedition on 20 April.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used C3 to top to C3 by Carracedo.
    Other members C3 to top to C4.
    C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Phunuru, Jubing-7, 25/10/82, Makalu 17/5/11
    Phurba Gyalzen, Pangkoma, Jubing, Solu


expid: EVER12113
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Argentina
leaders: Mariano Galvan
sponsor: One Argentinean on Everest
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2012-04-19
smtdate: 2012-05-19
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2012-05-22
campsites: BC(19/04,5350m),C2(25/04,6500m),C3(10/05,7200m),C4(18/05,8000m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Dendi Sherpa
routememo:
  Summit on 19 May by Galvan at 11 am.

  Galvan left C4 at 9 pm on 18 May. Many people were on the fixed lines. He unclipped from the fixed lines at the beginning of the climb (just outside C4) to overtake the long lines. He waited for about one hour at the Hillary Step. He spent about 20 minutes on the summit.

  He descended to C4, where he arrived at 6 pm. The next day he broke down his camp and descended to C2. On 21 May he descended to BC and left BC with Gonzalez on 22 May. They reached Lukla on 25 May, waited for flights for two days and then walked to Jiri, where they arrived on 28 May. Bus to Kathmandu.

  Gonzalez reached C2 on 25 April and spent two nights there. He had a bad cough and was not very well and also a bit traumatized by the Sherpa who fell into the crevasse and died. He descended to BC and stayed there for the rest of the expedition.

  Oxygen: not taken, not used.


expid: EVER12114
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Andrew Lock
sponsor: Lock to Everest
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2012-04-17
smtdate: 2012-05-25
termdate: 2012-05-30
termnote: Abandoned at 8500m due to mild high altitude problem
campsites: BC(17/04,5000m),ABC(25/04,6400m),C1(28/04,7000m),C2(23/05,7800m),C3(24/05,8300m),xxx(25/05,8500m)
agency: Expedition Himalaya
routememo:
  BC  17 Apr  5000m
  ABC 25 Apr  6400m
  C1  28 Apr  7000m
  C2  23 May  7800m
  C3  24 May  8300m
  HPT 25 May  8500m by Lock at 2 am (below 1st Step).

  Lock reached C3 at 3 pm on 25 May. He was feeling tired and was melting snow but was unable to drink and vomited a few times. He  left C3 at 10:30 pm and was the last person to leave C3 that night. It was a very cold night.

  After about two hours he started to sense that things were not quite right. He was seeing double and had lost his depth of vision. He could not separate the shadow from reality and saw flying bats!! After that feeling had kicked in, he continued climbing for another hour and a half.  When he began to lose his balance he realized that this was the oncoming HACE. He turned back at about 2 am and took some dexamethasone.

  At 3 am he arrived at C3, rested for two hours and continued to ABC, where he arrived at 6:30 pm. During his descent, his condition improved; however he was still very tired. When he met Jamie McGuinness at C1 he thought he was slurring his words, but was thinking clearly.

  On 27 May he descended to BC.

  Andrew Lock is retiring from 8000m climbing.

  Oxygen: not taken, not used.


expid: EVER12115
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Josef Einwaller
sponsor: Austrian to Everest
approach: Pangboche->Lobuje
bcdate: 2012-05-01
smtdate: 2012-05-26
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2012-05-29
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East
campsites: BC(01/05,5350m),C2(11/05,6300m),C3(14/05,7300m),C4(25/05,8000m),Smt(26/05)
agency: Numbur Himal Treks
routememo:
  Summit on 26 May by Einwaller, Phurba Tenzing, Pasang at 7 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 10 pm on 25 May. When they reached the Hillary Step at 6:30 am they had to wait for about 1-1/2 hours. They spent about 40 minutes on the summit. There were about 30 other people on the summit. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 11 am.

  On 27 May they descended to C2 and on 28 May to BC. They left base camp on 29 May by helicopter.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C4 to top to C4 by member and Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Phurba Tenzing, Beding, Dolakha, 23/5/1988, Everest X2
    Pasang, Siddha Pokhari, Sankhuwasabha, 10/7/1976, Everest X2, Makalu X1


expid: EVER12116
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: David Hamilton
sponsor: Jagged Globe Everest Expedition 2012
countries: Costa Rica, France, Ireland
bcdate: 2012-04-07
smtdate: 2012-05-25
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2012-05-28
campsites: BC(07/04,5350m),C1(20/04,6000m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(05/05,7100m),C4(24/05,8000m),Smt(25/05)
accidents: Pem Chhiri was hit by ice avalanche near C3 on 17 May
achievment: 1st Costa Rican
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  Summit on 25 May by Hamilton, Rojas, O'Brochlain, Mingma, Tundu at 6 am; Purdy, Ridley, Wangdi and Phurba at 6:15 am; Bailey and Tshering at 7 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 8 pm on 24 May. There were about 100 people on route. It was very windy, especially from the South Summit onwards. Team spent about 10 minutes on the summit. They descended to C4, where they arrived between 11 am and noon. They spent the night there and descended to C2 on 26 May. They descended to BC on 27 May.

  Baschung reached to about 8050m, just outside of C4 but decided to turn back due to fatigue. He stayed at C4 to wait for the others.

  Hammond reached 8500m (Balcony) at 3 am. He was feeling tired and had problems with oxygen mask. He descended to C4, where he arrived at 4:30 am.

  Accidents:

  Pem Chhiri was hit by ice avalanche near C3 on 17 May. He broke an arm and a leg. He was taken to C2 on a stretcher and then helicoptered to Kathmandu.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top or high pt to C3 by members.
    From C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.

  Summit Sherpas:
    Mingma Tshering, Beding, Dolakha, 1/8/1970, Cho Oyu X3, Everest X17
    Thundu, Beding, Dolakha, 18/2/1978, Cho Oyu X3, Everest X6
    Tshering Pemba, Beding, Dolakha, 22/11/85
    Wangdi Sherpa, Shyama-4, Dolakha, 1/3/89
      summited Everest on 16/5/2011 with Hamilton
    Phurba Namgyal, Beding, Dolakha, 7/2/1986, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2

  Accident Sherpa:
    Pema Tshering (Pem Chhiri), Chankhu, Dolakha, 16/12/80, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X2


expid: EVER12117
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Monique Richard
sponsor: Canadian Everest Expedition
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2012-04-08
smtdate: 2012-05-19
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2012-05-23
campsites: BC(08/04,5350m),C1(19/04,6000m),C2(02/05,6500m),C3(04/05,7400m),C4(18/05,8000m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Himalayan Human Adventure
routememo:
  Summit on 19 May by Richard, Tenzing and Nima Gombu at 9 am.

  Team left C4 at 9 pm at 18 May. There were long lines at the Hillary Step and the South Summit. They spent 30 minutes on the summit. On the way down they had to wait about one and a half hours at the Hillary Step. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 5:30 pm. 

  On 20 May they descended to C2 and on 21 May to BC. They left BC on 23 May. 

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Richard.
    C4 to top to C4 by Tenzing and Nima Gombu.

  Sherpas:
    Tenzing, Thami, 22/8/1964, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X8
    Nima Gombu, Beding, 2/1/1969, Cho Oyu X3, Everest X15


expid: EVER12118
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Nathalie Lamoureux
sponsor: Frenchwoman to Everest
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2012-04-30
smtdate: 2012-05-19
termdate: 2012-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 8760m due to wind, too late
campsites: BC(30/04,5350m),C2(15/05,6900m),C3(17/05,7000m),C4(18/05,8000m),xxx(19/05,8760m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  High point on 19 May at 8700 m by Pasang Karma, Lamoureux at 9:30 am.

  Lamoureux and Pasang Karma left C4 at 9:30 pm. They wanted to leave earlier but they had only arrived at C4 at 6 pm due to queues. They were the last to leave that night. When they reached the bottom of Hillary Step the wind was very strong and Lamoureux was hit by the wind so hard that she fell down. As it was already late and windy, they decided to turn back.

  They descended to C4, where they arrived at noon. Pasang Karma descended straight to C2 as he was not feeling well and wanted to go down. Lamoureux rested there for about four hours and descended to C3 with Pasang Nuru (who summited with Richard Stihler). They arrived at 2 am on 20 May. Lamoureux was very tired and found it very hard to cross the avalanche debris that had come down on 17 May.

  Pasang Nuru helped a Chinese climber down. They met and his Sherpa Kaila on the Geneva Spur. Pasang Nuru put the Chinese on a short rope and dragged him down. Kaila was also very tired, so he could not help. They put the two in an empty tent at C3; on 20 May they were better, descended to C2 and were picked up by helicopter there.

  On 20 May, Lamoureux and Pasang Nuru descended to C2 and on 21 May they descended to BC.

  They left BC on 22 May and walked to Lukla. After two days they walked to Paphlu, from where they took a jeep to Kathmandu. It took 20 hours.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to high point to C2 by Lamoureux.
    From C4 to high point to C4 by Pasang Karma.

  Lamoureux Sherpa:
    Pasang Karma, Paiya, Jubing, Solu, 25/12/1972, Everest X4

  Stihler Sherpa:
    Pasang Nuru, Bupsa, Jubing, Solu, 17/5/1974, summited with Richard Stihler,
      Cho Oyu X1, Everest X4, Makalu X1


expid: EVER12120
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Peter Boogaard
sponsor: Dutch Everest Expedition 2012
approach: Lukla->Namche->Tengboche->Dingboche->Lobuche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2012-04-15
smtdate: 2012-05-20
termdate: 2012-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 8550m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(15/04,5300m),C1(19/04,5900m),C2(23/04,6395m),C3(01/05,7500m),C4(19/05,8000m),xxx(20/05,8550m)
agency: Namgya Sherpa
routememo:
  Summit push of Boogaard, Tjalma, Namgya and Pasang started from C4 at 10 pm on 19 May. When they arrived at 8550m at about 2 am of 20 May storm started picking up. Other climbers started turning around. Then Boogaard team too decided to turn around. They returned to C4 at about 6:30 am where they had rest for some time and continued to descend to C2 where they arrived around 1 pm. They spent the night at C2. Next day 21 May to BC.

  Sherpas:
    Namgya Sherpa, 11/8/1971, Gyabla, Lelep-8, Taplejung, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Pasang Angchuk, 15/2/1984, Gyabla, Lelep-8, Taplejung, Everest X1


expid: EVER12121
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Bhupesh Hada
sponsor: Indian Army Snow Lion Everest Expedition 2012
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2012-04-06
smtdate: 2012-05-25
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2012-05-28
campsites: BC(06/04,5350m),C1(21/04,6000m),C2(28/04,6400m),C3(01/05,7300m),C4(24/05,8000m),Smt(25/05)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  Summit on 25 May Chokyi, Chompmel, Hada, Tashi, Tsewang, Ang Dawa, Dawa Tashi, Jit Bahadur at 7:30 am, Lobsang and Tenzing without oxygen and Mingmar Dorje at 6:30 am.

  Team left C4 at 8 pm, Lobsang and Tenzing, who were climbing without supplementary oxygen, left at 7 pm on 24 May. It was windy. Lobsang and Tenzing were very strong and managed to keep ahead of the rest of the team, who were using oxygen. Everyone spent between 15 minutes to 30 minutes on the summit. They descended to C4, where they arrived at midday. They spents the night and descended to C2 on 26 May, the following day to BC. They left BC on 28 May.

  7 members (of Hada's Lhotse and Everest team) ran the Everest Marathon.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Chokyi, Chompel, Hada, Tashi, Tsewang.
    Not taken, not used by Thupten Lobsang and Thakda Tenzing.
    From C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Dawa, Kharikhola, 18/11/1984, Ever 16/5/2007 New Zealand (Penelope Goddard)
    Dawa Tashi, Beding, 18/4/1987, Ever 17/5/2010 UK (Robert Anderson)
    Jit Bahadur (Thile), Khare-5, Dolakha, 30/7/1978, Ever 22/5/2008, Vietnam, 
      (Vitidnan Rojanpanich), Manaslu 30/9/2010 Spain (Miguel Perez)
    Mingmar Dorje, Gudel-9, Solukhumbu, 28/6/81, Ever 21/5/2009 India (Col. Mangal
      Murti Masur)


expid: EVER12123
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Prem Singh
sponsor: Indian ITBP Everest Expedition 2012
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2012-04-14
smtdate: 2012-05-19
smttime: 0845
termdate: 2012-05-31
campsites: BC(14/04,5000m),ABC(21/04,6500m),C1(23/04,7000m),C2(7700m),C3(18/05,8300m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  BC  14 Apr  5000m
  ABC 21 Apr  6500m
  C1  23 Apr  7000m
  C2 
  C3  18 May  8300m
  Smt 19 May  by Gurung, Negi, Pasang Tenzing Sherpa, Devendra Singh, Sonal Singh, 
              Virender Singh, Kami Chhiri, Mingma Dorchi at 8:45 am (NST).

  Prem Singh reached 7700m on 30 April. He would have been part of the second summit attempt on 25 May, but as he was suffering from a bad stomach he stayed at ABC.

  Dev, Dorjey, Panwar, Jot Singh, Wangdus reached 8300m on 24 May. They were going to try for the summit on 25 May, but the winds were too strong and Prem Singh decided at 10:45 pm that they were not going and abandoned the attempt. They descended to ABC on 25 May.

  Kalam Singh reached 8500m on 18 May. He had a chest pain and returned to C3, where he arrived at 12:45 am.

  Angdus and Thakur reached 7450m on 23 May during the second summit attempt. They were both not feeling well and were moving too slowly. They both turned back to ABC.

  Kumar reached 7400m; he had never intended to climb higher. 

  Namgyal never left BC; he was altitude sick and left expedition on 21 April.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from 7700m to top or high pt by members and Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Kami Chhiri, Bupsa, Jubing, 29/08/1982, Everest 22/5/2008 India (Ashok Abbey),
      Everest 21/5/2009, India (Col. Mangal Murti Masur)
    Mingma Dorchi Sherpa, 28/10/1986, Buddha Cottage, Toongsoong T.N. Road, 
      Ward 13, Darjeeling


expid: EVER12124
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Albania
leaders: Gjergji Bojaxhi
sponsor: Albanian Everest Expedition 2012
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2012-04-15
smtdate: 2012-05-25
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2012-05-29
campsites: BC(15/04,5000m),ABC(24/04,6400m),C1(08/05,7100m),C2(23/05,7800m),C3(24/05,8300m),Smt(25/05)
accidents: Rudho has frostbite on right hand at four fingers and on left hand on one finger
achievment: 1st Albanians on top
agency: Mountain Monarch
routememo:
  BC  15 Apr  5300m
  ABC 24 Apr  6400m
  C1  08 May  7100m
  C2  23 May  7800m
  C3  24 May  8300m
  Smt 25 May  by Begeja Matheo, Xhim, Tendi and Ang Dawa at 10 am, Bojaxhi, Plaku,
              Pishtari, Pasang Kaji, Phu Dorchi and Dawa Finjo at 8 am, Rudho and 
              Lhakpa Nuru at 9 am.

  Team left C3 at 11 pm on 24 May. Weather was clear, but windy. Straightforward climb. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit. Good views. Everyone, apart from Matheo and Xhim Begeja, descended to C2, where they arrived at 7 pm. Matheo and Xhim Begeja descended to C3, where they arrived at 4:30 pm. On 25 May everyone descended to ABC. They left BC on 29 May.

  Accidents: Rudho has frostbite on right hand at four fingers and on left hand on one finger.

  Oxygen:
    From C2 to top to C3 by members
    From C3 to top to C3 by Sherpas

  Sherpas:
    Tendi Sherpa, Gudel-5, Solukhumbu, 2/11/1976
    Ang Dawa, Sankhuwasabha, 7/12/1978
    Pasang Kaji, Dhodre, Sotang-6, Solu, 24/2/1981, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1, 
      Manaslu X1
    Dawa Finjo Lama Bhote, Hatiya-1, Makalu-Barun, 5/9/1988, Everest X3
    Phu Dorchi, Makalu-5, Sankhuwasabha, 30/4/1982, Kangch X1
    Lhakpa Nuru, Solu, 30/11/1987


expid: EVER12125
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Chris Klinke
countries: Bangladesh, Lebanon
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2012-04-16
smtdate: 2012-05-26
smttime: 0626
termdate: 2012-05-29
campsites: BC(16/04,5350m),C1(22/04,6000m),C2(24/04,6500m),C3(23/05,7000m),C4(24/05,8000m),Smt(26/05)
agency: Expedition Himalaya
routememo:
  Summit on 26 May by Nazreen, Ngima Grimen, Kusang Tenzing, Dorje at 6:26 am.

  Summit team left 8 pm on 25 May; Klinke left at 9:45 pm. He had been feeling sick with gastro-intestinal distress. He reached the balcony (8400m) at about 2 am and realized that he was too slow as he had been vomiting a few times on his way up. He turned back to C4 where he arrived at 6 am. The rest of the team carried on and spent about half an hour on the summit. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 12:30 pm.

  The same day (26 May) Klinke left C4 at 1 pm to recover at C2 and on 27 May he descended to BC. Summit team descended to C2 on 27 May and BC on 28 May. Everyone left BC on 29 May.

  Farajian reached 5800m on 22 April. As was too slow through the icefall, Klinke made him turn back to BC. On their descent, Farajian developed a tightness in his chest. Back at BC he went to the HRA clinic and was diagnosed with a heart problem, possible heart attack. On 23 April he took a helicopter together with Sfeir. In Kathmandu, he went to CIWEC, wehre they diagnosed him with a heart attack. He stayed in hospital for 10 days.

  Sfair never left BC. He did not join the others on their way to C1 as he was not feeling well that morning. When his friend was sick, he decided to go to Kathmandu with him.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Nazreen.
    Taken and sued from C3 to top to C4 by Sherpas.
    From C3 to 8400m to C4 by Klinke.

  Sherpas:
    Nima/Ngima Grimen, Gudel-5, Solukhumbu, 31/3/1982, Everest X3, Dhaulagiri I X1
    Da Kusang, Kurima, Lokhim, 28/5/89, Everest X2
    Phu Dorje, Gudel-4, Solu, 13/12/1982, no 8000ers


expid: EVER12127
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Jamie McGuinness
sponsor: Project Himalaya Everest 2012
countries: Australia
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2012-04-17
smtdate: 2012-05-26
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2012-05-30
campsites: BC(17/04,5000m),ABC(25/04,6400m),C1(04/05,7000m),C2(24/05,7800m),C3(25/05,8300m),Smt(26/05)
agency: Expedition Himalaya
routememo:
  BC  17 Apr  5000m
  ABC 25 Apr  6400m
  C1  04 May  7000m
  C2  24 May  7800m
  C3  25 May  8300m
  Smt 26 May  by McGuinness, Bal Bahadur, Dawa Gyalzen.

  McGuinness and Bal Bahadur left C3 at 2:45 am, Kowpak and Dawa Gyaljen left at 12:30 am. Straightforward climb. They spent between one and two hours on the summit, then descended to C3, where they arrived at 3 pm. Kowpak and Dawa Gyalzen descended to ABC on 27 May. McGuinness stayed at C3 for another night (he was looking for Irvine but did not find him).

  McGuinness descended to ABC on 28 May, they left BC on 30 May.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C1 to top to C1 by Kowpak.
    From C2 to top to C2 by McGuinness and Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Bal Bahadur Lobchan, 1/10/76, Ramche-9, Rasuwa
    Dawa Gyalzen, 15/2/1967, Saframa, Lokhim-9, Solu, Everest X2, Lhotse X1, 
      Cho Oyu X1


expid: EVER12128
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Paul Keleher, Kenton Cool
sponsor: Dream Guides Everest 2012
countries: USA
bcdate: 2012-04-11
smtdate: 2012-05-25
smttime: 0500
termdate: 2012-07-27
campsites: BC(11/04,5350m),C1(21/04,6000m),C2(26/04,6300m),C3(22/05,7000m),C4(23/05,8000m),Smt(25/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Summit on 25 May by Cool, Keleher, Owen, Partridge, Dorje Gyalzen, Chheten Dorje, Chyang Jyalbu, Gurmin Dorje at 4 am.

  Summit team and Derrigan spent two nights at C4, which was intended as Cool had to do some filming related to the 1924 Olympic medals he was taking up. On the summit attempt they left C4 at 7:30 pm. Jagged Globe, Peak Freaks and two Indian teams were also on their way up. Derrigan had very cold feet and decided to turn back at the South Summit at about 3:30 am; he descended to C2, where he arrived at 3:30 pm. Summit team carried on and spent about half an hour on the summit. On the descent, Keleher got slightly snow-blinded, which he treated at C4 and was gone the following day.

  Owen and Keleher descended to C4, where they arrived at 9 am. Partridge descended to C2, where he arrived at 4:30 pm. Cool got to C2 at 3 pm and carried on to BC, where he arrived at 7:30 pm.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members.
    From C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Dorje Gyalzen, Pangboche, 16/7/82, Everest X8, Manaslu X3, Cho Oyu X1
    Chheten Dorje, Pangboche, 28/5/87, Everest X1
    Chhyang Jyalbu Bhote, Hatiya-1, Makalu-Barun, 29/10/75
    Gurmin Dorje, Pangboche, Khumbu, 23/7/76, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1
      [Note: Ministry and HG gives this as Kalzang Dorje, Pangboche, 23/7/81]


expid: EVER12129
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jean Christophe Ludot
sponsor: Frenchman to Everest
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2012-04-12
smtdate: 2012-05-20
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2012-05-24
campsites: BC(12/04,5200m),ABC(14/04,6400m),C1(19/04,7000m),C2(18/05,7700m),C3(19/05,8300m),Smt(20/05)
accidents: Snowblindness by Lhakpa Sherpa
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  BC  12 Apr  5200m
  ABC 14 Apr  6400m
  C1  19 Apr  7000m
  C2  18 May  7700m
  C3  19 May  8300m
  Smt 20 May  by Ludot, Lhakpa Rangdu and Lhakpa at 9:30 am.

  Summit team left C3 at 9:30 pm on 19 May. The weather was bad, snowy and windy. At about 9 am the clouds broke and they had some views from the summit. They spent about 30 minutes on the summit. On the way down it snowed again. They were very slow. Young Lhakpa got snow-blinded so they helped him down. They descended to C3 where they arrived at 4 pm. The following day they descended to ABC. It took them about 8 hours.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C1 to top to C2 by members and Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Rangdu, Tala Kharka, Sotang, Solu, 18/11/1967, Everest X8, Cho Oyu X3
    Lhakpa, 29/05/1985, Lelep-8, Taplejung, 1st 8000er


expid: EVER12133
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: David Hahn
sponsor: Eddie Bauer Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2012-04-12
smtdate: 2012-05-26
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2012-05-28
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),C1(19/04,5791m),C2(29/04,6492m),C3(23/05,7285m),C4(24/05,7900m),Smt(26/05)
agency: Senge Treks & Expeditions
routememo:
  The team reached C4 on 24 May, but the 25th was too windy and route to the top too crowded, so they stayed an extra day at C4. "One good aspect of the wait was we knew we had the mountain to ourselves." They left camp for the top at midnight of the 25/26th. All four members and three Sherpas arrived at the summit at 9:30 am of the 26th on a calm, sunny, clear morning. They descended for the night to C2, where they returned at 7:00 pm. They were back in BC on the 27th.

  Oxygen:
    The members used oxygen in C3 to the top to C3 or where their supply ran out.
    The Sherpas used it from C3 to the top to C3 or where their supply ran out.

  Sherpas:
    Kazi Sherpa, 29/5/71, Tapting-9, Solu, Everest X3
    Pasang Ngima, 11/10/87, Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha, Everest X1, Dhaulagiri X1
    Tshering Dorje, 3/3/89, Beding, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X2

  Hahn described the great line of people heading up to the summit on the 25th as "frightening from the point of view of a leader - it takes away the ability to lead.. It's really dangerous." He watched people who clearly had never before walked on rock with crampons on their boots.

  "Also there's a problem of so much stuff left on the summit. It's surprising no has tripped over it and fallen down the Kangshung Face. It's terrible."

  Why does he keep returning after he has made so many ascents? He shrugs while conceding that "there are too many reasons this is not mountain climbing any more -- but why not keep going?"


expid: EVER12134
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Chad Kellogg
sponsor: Kellogg Everest Speed Climb
bcdate: 2012-04-10
smtdate: 2012-05-26
termdate: 2012-05-29
termnote: Abandoned at 8650m because he ran out of power in his legs
campsites: BC(10/04,5350m),C2(20/04,6500m),C3(11/05,7200m),xxx(26/05,8650m)
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  Kellogg intended to set a new speed record for an ascent of Everest from BC on the Nepal side of the mountain, reacheing the South Col in 11 hours and 8 hours more to the top. Before going for the top, he made seven trips to C2 and five trips to C3, climbing for three days and taking four days off. He testifies to the dangerous rock fall down Lhotse's West Face. While he was going to C3 on the face in late April, perhaps on the 26th, a rock two inches square came hurtling down towards him and hit his backpack.

  He started his summit push from BC at 6:00 pm on 25 May. He arrived in C1 at 9:30 pm changed clothes and left the camp at 9:48 pm. At 1:00 am of the 26th, he got to C3, spent 40 minutes changing into high-altitude clothing; there should have been two liters of water for him in his tent, but there was only one liter there. He left C3 at 1:40 am, ten minutes behind schedule. He vomited three times on his climb to C4 at the South Col, where he arrived at 8:00 am, now two hours behind schedule.

  As a result of his vomiting, he had now lost power in his legs, but he managed to leave C4 at 8:15 am of the 26th after consuming some food and water. (One Sherpa, Temba Bhote, was with him this day). He was now 19.5 hours out of BC, and still not on the summit. His legs continued to move slowly.

  At 2:30 pm on the 26th, Kellogg stopped. He as at 8650m at some rock steps above the Balcony, more than 90 meters below the South Summit. It had taken him more than an hour to climb from 8000 to 8650m. He had simply exhausted his strength -- had "run of gas." He turned around and descended to C4. He was now, for the first time during the climb, using oxygen to enable him to recover his strength. He was down in BC on the 27th and the climb was over.

  Sherpa:
    Temba Bhote, 5/12/73 (20/8/2030), Hatiya-3, Makalu


expid: EVER12135
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: W Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Jake Norton
sponsor: Eddie Bauer West Ridge Commemorative Expedition 2012
bcdate: 2012-04-10
smtdate: 2012-05-19
termdate: 2012-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to bad conditions onto the shoulder
campsites: BC(10/04,5350m),C1(16/04,6100m),C2(17/04,6400m),xxx(19/05,7300m),xxx(19/05,7300m)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  The plan was for this team to scale the West Ridge from the Nepalese side in association with David Hahn's team on the South Col to replicate the two segments of the 1963 American Everest expedition's historic traverse.

  The team had pitched C2 on 17 April and returned to it on the 23rd to begin their attempt to get onto the West Shoulder, go into the Hornbein Couloir on the North Face and rejoin the ridge to the top.

  On 24 April they began to establish the route onto the shoulder straight up from C2 at 6400m in the Western Cwm. The four-man team worked in different rotations of members, progressing very slowly because their route lay over blue ice covered by a thin layer of snow. They had no Sherpas with them above C2 and themselves fixed 600m of rope onto the shoulder.

  Bishop and Mace reached 7200m on May 17, and on the 19th Morton and Norton got to 7300m, just below the crest of the shoulder. This was the group's high point. They now decided the climb was over: it would take them another month to scale the West Ridge and the Hornbein Couloir, and they knew that the ladders in the Khumbu Icefall, through which they would have to descend, would be removed about the end of May.


expid: EVER12136
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Scott Woolums
sponsor: Mountain Trip Everest 2012
countries: Germany, Ireland
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2012-04-15
smtdate: 2012-05-25
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2012-05-28
campsites: BC(15/04,5350m),C1(22/04,6000m),C2(24/04,6500m),C3(23/05,7300m),C4(24/05,8000m),Smt(25/05)
agency: Expedition Himalaya
routememo:
  Summit on 26 May  by Connaughton, Hilgendorf, Schmitz, Spieldenner, Woolums, Pasang Gombu Sherpa, Da Phinju Sherpa, Da Ongchu Sherpa, Pasang Karma Sherpa, Karma Geljen Sherpa, Kaji Sherpa, Da Nuru Sherpa, Temba Sherpa, Samden Sherpa, Lama Babu Sherpa at 7 am.

  Woolums was initially planning to attempt the summit on 25 May, but changed his mind due to the high winds that were forecasted. He thought it would have been reckless to go up with the bad weather and the crowds. So they spent another night at the South Col.

  Summit team left C4 at 11 pm on 25 May. No traffic until the South Summit. 30 minutes wait at Hillary Step. Straightforward climb. There were about 20 people on the summit. They spent about 45 minutes on the top and descended to C4, where they arrived at 11 pm and stayed the night there. On 27 May they descended to C2 and on 28 May to BC.

  Seiwald reached about 6900m at the bottom of the Lhotse Face on 7 May. She decided to leave the expedition 20 May as she thought the climbing conditions were too dangerous.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members.
    From C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Gombu, Sotang, Solu, 28/12/1969, Everest X3
    Da Ongchu Sherpa, Kurima, Lokhim-4, 16/4/1979, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X2
    Karma Gyalzen, Charuwa, Sotang 31/7/1988, Everest X2
    Kaji, Sikli, Jubing-5, Solu, 12/02/1987, Everest X1
    Temba Sherpa, Sotang-6, Solukhumbu, 4/9/1977, Everest X4
    Samden Sherpa, Bakachol-9, Khotang, 29/1/88, Everest with Woolums in spring 2011
    Da Phinju Sherpa, Lokhim-9, Solu, 26/3/1989 (13/12/2045), 
      Everest with Woolums in spring 2011
    Da Nuru Sherpa, Lokhim-9, Solu, 7/12/1983, no 8000ers
    Lama Babu, Saframa, Lokhim-2, Solu, 24/6/1969, Everest X1, Cho Oyu, 
      Everest 21/5/2009 Japan (Kenji Kondo)
    Pasang Karma, Lokhim-9, Solu, 15/5/1985, no 8000ers


expid: EVER12137
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Francois Houde
sponsor: Satori Adventure Everest Expedition 2012
bcdate: 2012-04-11
smtdate: 2012-05-19
smttime: 0728
termdate: 2012-05-22
campsites: BC(11/04,5300m),C1(19/04,6100m),C2(20/04,6400m),C3(30/04,7100m),C4(18/05,7950m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  Houde, Dupasquier, Mingma and Lhakpa left C4 at 7:30 pm on 18 May. Mingma and Houde got to the top at 7:28 am on 19 May. Lhakpa and Dupasquier got to the top at 8 am. The first team stayed on summit for an hour and second team for 30 minutes. The team returned to C4 at 3 pm and 4 pm. They spent the night at C4. Next day 20 May they slept at C2 and on 21 May descended to BC. There were about 12 climbers ahead of Houde team. They came across about 30 climbers at Hillary Step where they had to wait at least an hour. 

  On 27 April Houde's tent was hit by avalanche that came from Nuptse's face. Luckily no serious damage done to climbers and tent.

  Sherpa:
    Mingma Temba Sherpa, 19/01/8, Yaphu-9, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X3
    Lhakpa Tashi Sherpa, Yaphu-9, Everest X1 with Indian Women Air Force in 2011


expid: GANC11401
peakid: GANC
year: 2011
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Dorje Sherpa
ascent1: 7th
countries: Russia
approach: Lama Hotel->Langtang->Kyanjin Gompa
bcdate: 2011-12-19
smtdate: 2011-12-24
smttime: 1320
termdate: 2011-12-26
campsites: BC(19/12,4500m),C1(22/12,5500m),C2(23/12,5800m),Smt(24/12)
agency: Expedition Himalaya
routememo:
  Pasang Ongchu, Galden, Mikhanovskaia and Dorje left C2 at 7 am on 24 Dec. The team reached summit at 1:20 pm , stayed on summit for 30 minutes, then descended to C2 where they arrived at 5 pm. Next day 25 Dec went down to BC. Summit day weather was windy all the way up whereas during descent it was mild windy.

  Sherpas:
    Dorje, 1-1-65, Taksindu-3, Horinga
    Pasang Onchu, 25 April 87 (12-01-2033), Bung-9
    Galden, 06/12/86 (21/08/2043), Bung-9


expid: KANG12101
peakid: KANG
year: 2012
route1: SW Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Kazuyoshi Kondo
sponsor: Hiun Chituwa Kangchenjunga 2012
approach: Ramche
bcdate: 2012-04-15
smtdate: 2012-05-19
termdate: 2012-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 8086m due to no fixed rope, weather turned bad
campsites: BC(15/04,5500m),C1(23/04,6200m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(15/05,7100m),C4(18/05,7500m),xxx(19/05,8086m)
agency: Bochi Bochi Treks
routememo:
  BC  15 Apr  5500m
  C1  23 Apr  6200m
  C2  24 Apr  6400m
  C3  15 May  7100m
  C4  18 May  7600m
  HPt 19 May  8086m by Kondo, Kurahashi, Bibas Gurung, Chhepi Bhote,
              Mingmar Tamang at 6 am.

  Team left C4 at 8 pm on 18 May. Weather and snow conditions were good. When they reached 8086m there was no fixed rope and the weather turned bad, so they decided to turn back. They were also tired from the expedition as the distances between the camps were very big.

  They descended in a white-out. Kondo reached C3, where he arrived at 10 am, Kurahashi descended to C2, where he arrived at 1 pm.

  On 20 May everybody descended to BC and left BC on 23 May.

  Oxygen: taken and used
    Kondo from C3 to high point to C3.
    Kurahashi from C4 to high point to C4.
    Sherpas from C4 to high point to C4.

  Sherpas:
    Chhepi Bhote, 30/9/1974, Honggaon, Hatiya, Makalu-Barun 
    Bibas Gurung, 6/6/88, Hatiya-7, Makalu-Barun
    Mingmar Tamang, Mingmar, 23/9/1964, Pirangding, Kerung, Solu


expid: KANS11401
peakid: KANS
year: 2011
route1: SW Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Philipp Kunz
sponsor: First Kangchenjunga South Winter Expedition
ascent1: 8th
approach: Taplejung->Dandagaon->Yamphudin->Torang Dina->Cheram->Ramche->Koma
bcdate: 2012-02-03
smtdate: 2012-02-15
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2012-02-18
achievment: 1st winter ascent
agency: Yala Adventure
campsites:
  BC(03/02,5250m),C1(05/02,6100m),C2(07/02,6700m),C3(09/02,7000m),C4(11/02,7500m),C5(14/02,8000m),C6(14/02,8400m),Smt(15/02)

routememo:
  The expedition team followed normal route on Kangchenjunga from BC->C1->C2->C3. From C3 the team turned to left[??] side and continued up to the summit. The team started its summit push on 14 Feb at 8 am from C4 and reached C6 at 4 pm. Next day 15 Feb the team started at 7:40 am from C6 and reached the top at 11 am. The team stayed on summit for a few minutes then returned C6 at 1:30 pm, continued to C3 where the team reached at 5:30 pm and spent the night there. On 16 Feb the team went down to BC. Summit day weather was excellent.

  Kunz said that the rope length was not sufficient for any future expeditions on that route. He suggested to have 7.5 km of ropes.

  Sherpas:
    Tshering Dorje Sherpa, 12/10/1981 (26/6/2038), Mamerku, Cheskam-2, Sankhuwasabha,
      Lhotse X1, Cho Oyu X1, Dhaulagiri X1
    Kami Chhiri Lama, 01/5/1968, Bhakanje-5, Everest X1, Kangch summited in 2009
      with Korean Kim Jae-Soo
    Lhakpa Thinduk Sherpa, 17/4/1963 (4/1/2020), Makalu-9
    Nima Ongdi Sherpa, 30/11/1977 (15/8/2034), Makalu-9


  Yadu of Yala Adventure - 14 July 2012

  Lhakpa Wangel summited, not Lhakpa Thinduk. Lhakpa Thinduk was base camp cook.


expid: LHOT11116
peakid: LHOT
year: 2011
route1: W Face
nation: Argentina
leaders: Mariano Galvan
sponsor: One Argentinean on Everest
approach: Pangboche->Island Peak
bcdate: 2011-04-15
smtdate: 2011-05-18
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2011-05-21
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(15/04,5550m),C2(21/04,6500m),C4(17/05,7800m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Dendi Sherpa
routememo:
  Galvan left C4 at 2:30 am. The weather was clear. When he reached the couloirs, the weather turned bad with very strong winds. There was no fixed rope in the couloirs (he climbed before the commercial expeditions fixed it a few days later).

  When he reached the summit the weather was very bad. No views at all. He took some video on the summit and descended after about 15 minutes to CIV, where he arrived at 5 pm.

  On 19 May he descended to C2 and on 20 May BC. He left BC on 21 May. He carried everything himself.

  Oxygen: not taken, not used


expid: LHOT12113
peakid: LHOT
year: 2012
route1: W Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Till Kramann
sponsor: Kramann to Lhotse
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2012-04-22
smtdate: 2012-05-25
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2012-05-28
campsites: BC(22/04,5350m),C1(26/04,6000m),C2(27/04,6370m),C3(11/05,7200m),C4(24/05,7800m),Smt(25/05)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Summit on 25 May by Tshering Jangbu and Kramann at 9 am.

  Team left C4 at 1 am. Good conditions. They had to use the fixed rope from the previous year from about 8200m as it had not been freshly fixed. The body of the Czech climber Milan was lying just near the summit.

  They spent about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at noon. They rested for 2 hours and continued to C2, where they arrived at 9 pm.

  On 26 May to BC. He left BC on 28 May by helicopter.

  Oxygen: taken, not used.

  Sherpa: 
    Tshering Jangbu, 1/8/77 (17/4/2034), Rakshi Kharka, Lokhim-9, Solu, 
      Lhotse X3, Everest X3 Cho Oyu X1 
      (Lhotse with Iranian Hossein Bahmanyar on 19 May 2011)


expid: LHOT12101
peakid: LHOT
year: 2012
route1: W Face
nation: Poland
leaders: Kinga Baranowska
sponsor: Polish Lhotse Expedition
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2012-04-15
smtdate: 2012-05-25
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2012-05-28
campsites: BC(15/04,5350m),C1(18/04,6100m),C2(19/04,6370m),C3(28/04,7203m),C4(18/05,7800m),Smt(25/05)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Summit on 25 May by Baranowska at 10 am.

  First summit attempt on 19 May. Michalski and Baranowska left C4 at 6 am. They climbed until 2 pm to about 8200m and decided to turn back as it was too late in the day and Baranowska did not want to reach the summit after dark. They were too slow. They descended to C3, where they arrived at 6 pm. On 20 May they descended to BC.

  Michalski decided to leave on 22 May as he thought that he would not have enough time to rest and gain enough strength for a second summit attempt.

  Baranowska stayed at BC until 23 May and ascended directly from BC to C3. It took her 10-1/2 hours. On 24 May she moved to C4.

  On 25 May Baranowska left C4 at 1:30 am with a few other people. She had to walk past the dead Czech climber, who had died a few days previously. She stayed about 20 minutes on the summit. She waited for Ryan Waters and Cecilie Skog to reach the summit to take her summit photo.

  She descended top C4, where she arrived at 1:30 pm. On 26 May she descended to BC and left BC on 28 May by helicopter.

  Oxygen: not taken, not used.


expid: LHOT12102
peakid: LHOT
year: 2012
route1: W Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Carlo Orlando
sponsor: Lhotse Team
countries: Switzerland
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2012-04-11
smtdate: 2012-05-17
termdate: 2012-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to no fixed ropes, ice avalanches
campsites: BC(11/04,5350m),C1(15/04,6000m),C2(27/04,6400m),C3(30/04,7400m),xxx(17/05)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  High point on 17 ay at 7400m by Dado, Montolli, Orlando and Pema Chosang.

  Team intending to reach the summit on 19 May. It took them about nine hours to get to C3. From C2 they saw the serac collapse at C3, during which a Sherpa was injured and several tents were destroyed.

  They spoke with their Sherpa about the fixed rope and as nothing was fixed in the couloirs, they decided to abandon their summit attempt. They descended to C2 on 18 May and BC on 19 May.

  They left 21 May and walked to Lukla.

  Oxygen: taken, not used.

  Sherpa:
    Pema Chhosang, Khumjung, 30/4/1972


expid: LHOT12103
peakid: LHOT
year: 2012
route1: W Face
nation: Australia
leaders: Alessandra Pepper
sponsor: Australian to Lhotse
approach: Manaslu
bcdate: 2012-05-16
smtdate: 2012-05-19
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2012-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to bad conditions, no fixed rope
campsites: BC(16/05,5350m),C2(17/05,6500m),C3(19/05,7300m),xxx(19/05,7300m)
agency: Mountain Tribes Trekking
routememo:
  High point on 19 May at 7300m by Dawa Tenzing and Pepper.

  Team took about 8 hours from C2 to C3, where they arrived at 3 pm. Pepper talked to Damian Benegas on the radio, who told her that the rope had not been fixed all the way to the top and the conditions were very bad (rockfall), so they decided to descend the following day to BC.

  On 21st they walked to Pheriche and the following day they took a helicopter to Kathmandu.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from 7000m to C3 to C2 by Pepper.

  Sherpa:
    Dawa Tenzing, Thamo, Khumbu 21/3/1986


expid: LHOT12104
peakid: LHOT
year: 2012
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Benjamin Jones
sponsor: Benjamin Jones on Lhotse 2012
countries: UK
bcdate: 2012-04-23
smtdate: 2012-05-19
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2012-05-22
campsites: BC(23/04,5350m),C2(30/04,6450m),C3(17/05,7200m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  Summit on 19 May by Jones at 10 am.

  As they had not set up a C4 on Lhotse, Jones climbed to the South Col on 18 May. On summit day, left South Col at 5:30 am. He met Damian Benegas, who had come from C3, at the spur at 6 am. They fixed some rope on the mountain from about 8300m.

  Rockfall in the couloirs was still pretty bad which was mostly due to the climbers above. They had good views from the summit.

  They descended to C2 where they arrived at 6 pm. Benegas carried on to BC at 8:30 pm. The next day Jones descended to BC and left BC on 22 May.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C3 to top C2 by Jones.


  Samuel Elias and Emily Harrington were Sherpa Shangri-La clients.
  Melissa Arnot was a Senge Treks client on the Sherpa Shangri-La permit.
  David Hamilton was a Summit Nepal client on the Sherpa Shangri-La permit.


expid: MANA11319
peakid: MANA
year: 2011
route1: NE Face
nation: Australia
leaders: Malcolm Haskins
sponsor: Speedfly Manaslu 2011
countries: New Zealand
approach: Arughat->Soti Khola->Jagat->Gap->Lho->Samagaon
bcdate: 2011-09-27
smtdate: 2011-10-12
smttime: 1120
termdate: 2011-10-15
campsites: BC(27/09,4900m),C1(30/09,5700m),C2(03/10,6350m),C3(10/10,6750m),C4(11/10,7450m),Smt(12/10)
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
routememo:
  Haskins, West, Pemba and Siddhi left C4 at 6:35 am. Haskins, Pemba and Siddhi reached to the top at 11:20 am. They stayed on summit for 20 minutes, then back to C4 at 12:45 pm and continued to C3. Haskins tried to tandem paraglide fly down, but wind conditions were not good and he was too tired. Next day he skied down to C2 and C1 then to BC. West stopped 20 meters below the summit. He went down to C2 and spent night there. 

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Rinjin, 1/1/1965, Balakharka, Makalu-5, Everest X5
    Siddhi Bahadur Tamang, 7/6/1981, Simigaon, Dolakha, Cho Oyu X1


expid: MANA11321
peakid: MANA
year: 2011
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Martine Marsigny
sponsor: French on Manaslu
approach: Bhulbhule->Jagat->Dharapani->Bhimtang->High Camp->Samdo->Samagaon
bcdate: 2011-09-14
smtdate: 2011-10-04
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2011-10-07
campsites: BC(14/09,4938m),C1(16/09,5760m),C2(22/09,6400m),C3(02/10,6800m),C4(03/10,7400m),Smt(04/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Marsigny couple left C4 at 7 am for summit on 4 Oct. Francois Marsigny turned around from 7500m to C4 due to breathing problem and exhaustion and also he felt that his toes started getting cold. Martine Marsigny reached summit at 2:30 pm on 4 Oct along with Pemba Nuru "Kaila" (Pemba was with Campergue). Martine Marsigny and Pemba Nuru stayed on summit for about 5 minutes just to take summit pictures, then went down to C4 where they arrived at 4:30 pm. Next day 5 Oct descended to BC. Summit day weather was good. 

  Rolin stopped at 6900m. He had breathing problem and tired. He went down to C2 on 3 Oct.


expid: MANA11322
peakid: MANA
year: 2011
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Mathieu Campergue
sponsor: Ananda Manaslu Expedition
approach: Bhulbhule->Jagat->Dharapani->Bhimtang->High Camp->Samdo->Samagaon
bcdate: 2011-09-14
smtdate: 2011-10-04
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2011-10-07
campsites: BC(14/09,4900m),C1(10/09,5760m),C2(22/09,6400m),C3(02/10,6800m),C4(03/10,7400m),Smt(04/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Campergue spent night at C4 on 3 Oct with Pemba Nuru. Campergue went down to BC on 4 Oct due to cold feet. Pemba Nuru continued with Martine Marsigny to summit where Pemba Nuru reached at 2:20 pm on 4 Oct and returned to C4 at 4:30 pm. Next day 5 Oct Pemba Nuru went down to BC with Marsigny couple. 

  Candelier went up to 7000m (approx) and returned to C2 on 3 Oct.

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Nuru Sherpa (Kaila), 03/02/1973, Pare near Thami, Khumbu, Everest X3, 
      Lhotse X1, Makalu X1


expid: MANA11323
peakid: MANA
year: 2011
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Ludovic Challeat
sponsor: Expes.com Manaslu Expedition 2011
countries: Belgium, Canada
approach: Besisahar->Dharapani->Larkya La->Samagaon
bcdate: 2011-09-09
smtdate: 2011-10-04
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2011-10-06
campsites: BC(09/09,4850m),C1(14/09,5700m),C2(18/09,6400m),C3(20/09,6800m),C4(03/10,7400m),Smt(04/10)
agency: Annapurna Treks
routememo:
  Challeat, Courtois, Daumas, Fohal, Homier, Leger, Priez, Pasang Tendi, Phu Dorchi and Pechhumbe left C4 at 6 am. Challeat reached top at 11 am and last one to reach the top was Homier at 2 pm. Rest of the members and Sherpas reached top between 11 am to 2 pm. The summiting members stayed on summit for about 10 minutes. All members and Sherpas returned to C4 between 2 to 4 pm then continued to descent to C2 where they reached at 6:30 pm. The summit day weather was perfect. Next day all went down to BC. 

  De Fouchier returned from Bimthang by helicopter on 6 September. He had fever and no appetite. He left Nepal on 8 Sept. 

  Montet went up to BC but no motivation to climb. He left BC on 14 Sept and arrived Kathmandu on 20 Sept. He left Nepal on 1 Oct.

  Sherpas:
    Pechhumbe, 22/9/87, Tashigaon
    Pasang Tendi, 30/7/88, Yilajung, Khumbu
    Phu Dorchi, 30/4/82, Makalu-5
    Pemba, 4/9/71, Taksindu
    Gelje, 24/9/77, Kagani-8, Okhaldhunga


expid: MANA11320
peakid: MANA
year: 2011
route1: NE Face
nation: Belgium
leaders: Edmund Spoden
sponsor: International Manaslu Expedition 2011
countries: Italy
approach: Arughat->Samagaon
bcdate: 2011-09-05
smtdate: 2011-10-04
smttime: 1150
termdate: 2011-10-06
campsites: BC(05/09,4850m),C1(14/09,5770m),C2(15/09,6380m),C3(16/09,6800m),C4(03/10,7400m),Smt(04/10)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  On summit day, team left C4 at 5:30 am. Weather sunny and calm. Straightforward climb. On summit about 5 to 6 people waiting to get to real top along the cornice. They reached the real summit, then descended to C4 where they arrived at 3 pm (Stoll and Chhiring Dorje) and 5:30 pm (Spoden and Phurba Temba).

  Sherpas:
    Chhiring Dorje, 27/10/74, Beding, Dolakha, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X4, Lhotse X1, 
      Manaslu X1 
    Phurba Temba, 11/10/84, Gaurishankar-3, Dolakha, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X1,
      Makalu X1


expid: MANA12101
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Australia
leaders: Alessandra Pepper
sponsor: Australian to Manaslu
approach: Arughat
bcdate: 2012-04-18
smtdate: 2012-05-11
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2012-05-13
campsites: BC(18/04,4700m),C1(22/04,5750m),C2(08/05,6500m),C3(09/05,6900m),Smt(11/05)
agency: Mountain Tribes Trekking
routememo:
  Summit on 11 May Pepper and Dawa Tenzing at 2:30 pm.

  Team left C3 at 12:15 am. Weather was clear and there was a broken trail as Dawa Tenzing and Adventure Consultant Sherpas had fixed the rope on the previous day. There was a lot of blue ice just below C4 at 7300m, which the Sherpas still needed to fix during their summit attempt. Pepper and Dawa Tenzing stopped at the bottom of the cornice as the fixed rope along the cornice was very thin. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit. They descended to C3, where they arrived at 8 pm.

  The following day they descended to BC and took a helicopter from Samagaon to Kathmandu on 13 May.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to summit to 7200m by Pepper.
    No oxygen used by Sherpa.

  Sherpa:
    Dawa Tenzing, Thamo, Khumbu, 21/3/1986


expid: MANA12102
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Luis Stitzinger
sponsor: Go Climb a Mountain Manaslu Expedition 2012
bcdate: 2012-04-21
smtdate: 2012-05-13
termdate: 2012-05-19
termnote: Abandoned at 7990m due to electrical storm
campsites: BC(21/05,4700m),C1(28/04,5700m),C2(05/05,6500m),C3(11/05,6900m),C4(12/05,7400m),xxx(13/05,7990m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  High point on 13 May at 7990m by Jaepel, Ranke, Sippel, Stitzinger, von Melle at 1:30 pm.

  All members skied down from 7200m.

  Team left C4 at 7 am; they had intended to leave at 5 am, but the wind was too strong. When they left it was sunny and a bit windy. At 1:30 pm the weather changed completely and an electrical storm started. They were contemplating for half an hour about what to do, but decided to descend to C4, where they arrived at 5 pm. During their descent they were frequently hit by electricity generated by the storm.

  When they started their descent to C3 on 14 May. Ranke started to feel the effect of HAPE. When they got to C3, Stitzinger put him on oxygen for the night and he recovered quickly. The next day he was able to ski from C3 to BC with all the other members. Snow conditions were good for skiing.

  Apart from Ranke, all members broke down the three camps on 17 May. They were on skis again and skied down again.

  Stitzinger had carried his skis up but the weather was too bad to ski down. 

  Stitzinger and Ranke suffered from frostbite on their hands (Stitzinger two fingers on each hand and Ranke his right thumb).

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used by Ranke during the night of 14 May at C3 to cure his HAPE.


expid: PAN112101
peakid: PAN1
year: 2012
route1: N Ridge via Samdo
nation: Norway
leaders: Ola Einang
sponsor: Expedition Samdo 2012
countries: Sweden
approach: Arkhet Bazar->Kharabesi->Jagat->Samgaon->Samdo
bcdate: 2012-04-05
smtdate: 2012-04-19
termdate: 2012-04-22
termnote: Abandoned at 5400m due to avalanche accident
campsites: BC(05/04,4650m),ABC(09/04,5000m),xxx(19/04,5400m)
accidents: Avalanche severely injured Myrer-Lund
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  Pasang and Myrer-Lund were on their way up to put up C1 at about 5700m on 19 April. When they got around 5400m an avalanche hit the team. Myrer-Lund was thrown into the air twice and landed some 300m down. His left leg was broken in two places and some ribs too. Pasang was lucky as he had some brushes on his hip and on his arm. Shocked Pasang came down to ABC and said that Myrer-Lund was dead. Then Einang and Smakasin went up to the site and they found Myrer-Lund was in great pain and feeling very cold. Later Hjort too came up and other Sherpas. Myrer-Lund was wrapped with mattress and they pulled him down close to 5000m and spent the night in a tent. Myrer-Lund got medication but the pain was severe. Next day the team brought down Myrer-Lund to ABC. In the morning around 9:30 am Myrer-Lund was heli-lifted to Samagaon with Smakasin then to Kathmandu. He was admitted to Norvic Hospital. On 23 April rest of the members returned to Kathmandu by helicopter.

  Einang said that there was snowfall nearly every day during the expedition. The climbing route too had lots of snow, at some places it was waist-deep.

  Sherpas:
    Kancha Sherpa, 23/1/81 (10/10/2037), Mopung, Beni-5, Solu
    Mingma Sherpa, 1/7/80 (18/3/2037), Waku-4
    Pasang Sherpa, 25/6/75 (11/04/2032), Taksindu-5


expid: TASH11301
peakid: TASH
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge of Tashi Kang III
nation: Japan
leaders: Yosuke Narisue
sponsor: Japanese Tashi Kang Expedition 2011
approach: Beni->Maprha by bus, then trek Yak Kharka, Thapa Peak BC
smtdate: 2011-11-02
termnote: Abandoned on Tashi Kang III at 6000m due to exhaustion
othersmts: Attempted Tashi Kang III (to 6000m)
campsites: xxx(02/11,6000m,Tashi Kang III)
agency: Bochi Bochi Treks
routememo:
  The expedition could not go to Tashi Kang due to lack of porters. The team attempted Tashi Kang III. Two members Setsuko Inatomi and Yosuke Narisue together with Ramesh Gurung climbed up to 6000m on 2 Nov in very good weather conditions, but the climbers were exhausted and gave up. Yamamoto climbed up to 5780m and turned around due to tiredness.

  Hired:
    Ramesh Gurung, 29/6/1988 (15/3/2045), Hatiya-7


expid: TSAR12101
peakid: TSAR
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Goetz Wiegand
sponsor: German Tsartse Expedition
countries: Romania
approach: Jomsom->Marpha->Hidden Valley
smtdate: 2012-05-07
termnote: Abandoned on 7 May due to deep fog that prevented seeing way ahead
othersmts: Climbed Chulu Far East
agency: Multi Adventure
routememo:
  The four-man climbing team took a bus from Kathmandu to Pokhara with six trekkers on 26 April and next day flew to Jomsom. They trekked acrsos the Thorong La to Manang village and on 25 May climbed Chulu Far East (6380m), a trekking peak. They all returned to Manang village, then to Tilicho Lake to across the Mesakantho La back to Jomsom, where the climbers left the trekkers and proceeded to Marpha on the Kali Gandaki River on 3 May and then west in tho the "Hidden Valley."

  Throughout this whole period the weather was bad: rain/snow and fog - fog so pervasive they couldn't see more than two meters in any direction wherever they were. They were further hindered by the fact that no other people had been in the area for week, so there was no one's trail to follow. This finally defeated the climbers' effort to reach their mountain, but they tried hard to penetrate it.

  In the Hidden Valley on the 4th, they had no clear idea wehre exactly they were; on the 5th they camped at 4800m wherever they were that night. The next day, they tried to make a trail for their porter, whose progress was so slow he managed to cover only one kilometer in an hour. There was the deep fog, plus snow was now falling. The snow was covering their footprints and "we were lucky to find our way back," said Wiegand. They camped that night at the place they had spent the previous night.

  On 7 May, they tried again, but again it was snowing and and they gained only one kilometer in an hour. With the same weather pattern recurring, they turned back to Marpha. It was very difficult to find their way back, and now they had no time left. So from Marpha they returned to Kathmandu via Jomsom on 8 May.


expid: MANA11315
peakid: MANA
year: 2011
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Kenji Kondo
sponsor: Adventure Guides Manaslu Expedition 2011
bcdate: 2011-09-11
smtdate: 2011-10-05
smttime: 0830
campsites: BC(11/09,4500m),C1(16/09,5200m),C2(26/09,5600m),C3(03/10,6700m),C4(04/10,7000m),Smt(05-06/11)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  All members left for final attack at 1:00 am (the was first team left on Oct 5 and second team on Oct 6). All members and guides reached the top between 8:30 to 9:30 am. The weather was good.

  Oxygen was used by Japanese members; Nepali guides did not use.

  Ms. Miyahara Rie suffered severe frostbite that led to her losing 4 fingers.


expid: MANA11318
peakid: MANA
year: 2011
route1: NE Face
nation: China
leaders: Yang Chun-Feng
sponsor: Chinese on Manaslu
approach: Helicopter to Samagaon
bcdate: 2011-09-12
smtdate: 2011-10-04
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2011-10-06
campsites: BC(12/09,4800m),C1(15/09,5800m),C2(02/10,6800m),C3(03/10,7500m),Smt(04/10)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  Li Jie, Zhong Liu-Yong, Zhang Jing-Chuan, Ning Ting, Zou Bin, Luo Jing, Nawang Kalden, Nima Kalden, Pemba Nuru, Phuru Gyalzen, Dawa and Mingma started their summit push from C3 at 6 am on 4 Oct. The team reached top at 10 am, stayed on summit for 30 minutes, then descended to C3 at 11:30 am. 

  Zou Bin and Mingma stayed at C3 and next day went down to BC. Rest of members descended to C1 where they arrived at 8 pm to 11 pm. The summit day weather was good, clear and no wind.

  Oxygen:
    Liu-Yong Zhong and Sherpas from C3 to summit to C3.
    Rest of members from C2 to summit to C2.

  Yang Chun-Feng went up to C3 on 3 Oct and went down to C1 same day.

  (Two Sherpas from Seven Summit Treks and four from Mountain Experience.)


expid: CHOY10347
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Andre Luethi
sponsor: Luethi Globetrotter Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 2010-09-17
smtdate: 2010-09-20
termdate: 2010-09-25
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to Gehrig's altitude sickness
othersmts: Climbed Noijinkangsang (7206m) in Tibet
campsites: BC(17/09,4900m),ABC(18/09,5700m),C1(20/09,6500m),xxx
agency: Matterhorn Treks
routememo:
  Gehrig had a bad night at C1 (could not breath) and decided to abandon his climb. Luethi and Ang Kami decided to stay with him and so they also abandoned their climb.

  They were not going to use oxygen.


expid: AMAD12102
peakid: AMAD
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Robert Mecus
sponsor: New York Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 2012-04-23
smtdate: 2012-05-04
termdate: 2012-05-08
termnote: Abandoned at 6120m due to continuous snowfall
campsites: BC(23/04,4550m),ABC(28/04,5600m),C1(30/04,5900m),C2(03/05,6100m),xxx(04/05,6120m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Mecus and Yoon made an attempt to go for the summit and left C2 at about 6:00 am on 4 May. They managed to gain 20m, then five minutes later were back in camp: snowfall and wind drove them back and sent them (the only members in C2) down to BC on the following day in heavy snowfall and strong wind.

  The weather forecast was for snow to continue falling for four or five days. They abandoned the climb on 7 May.


expid: AMAD12103
peakid: AMAD
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Liam O'Sullivan
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Ama Dablam Expedition 2012
countries: Norway
bcdate: 2012-05-05
smtdate: 2012-05-10
termdate: 2012-05-11
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(05/05,4600m),C1(07/05,5600m),C2(09/05,5900m),xxx(10/05,6700m)
agency: Beyul Adventure
routememo:
  On 10 May, Hedberg, McPherson, O'Sullivan and Kami Sherpa left C2 for the summit at 2:30 am on the 10th of May. There was very little wind, high clouds, light snowfall plus thunder and lightning as they set out, but they had decided to make the attempt to reach the summit now since the weather forecast predicted very strong winds starting late on the 11th until the 19th.

  Hedberg and O'Sullivan got to 6700m. By 7:30 am, Hedberg was getting tired. By now the mountain below about 6300m was covered by clouds, and there was concern about their ability to get down safely, so the summit team turned around and managed to get back to C2 at noon. They decided to abandon the climb since the forecast was for a period of bad weather. Furthermore, Hedberg found that he had two frostbitten toes.

  Bjellmo and Lane reached C2 on the 9th with the summit party, but she was not strong enough to go higher and the weather was poor. They retreated to BC.

  Garner got to C1 on 7 May, but descended to BC the next day because she was suffering from bronchitis.

  Jyssum had a mild altitude problem, and an asthma attack hit her at 5480m on her way to C2, so she retreated to BC.

  Sherpa: 
    Kami Sherpa (his name is actually Ang Chhiring and that is the name in his
      passport, but he is generally known as Kami), 1962, Pangboche, 
      Everest X11, Cho Oyu X7


expid: AMAD12104
peakid: AMAD
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Wolfgang Fasching
sponsor: Italian Ama Dablam
bcdate: 2012-04-29
smtdate: 2012-05-02
termdate: 2012-05-10
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to missing gear
campsites: BC(29/04,4600m),C1(01/05,5700m),C2(02/05,6100m),xxx(02,05/05,6100m)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  After having established his first two high camps, Fasching descended to BC to rest. Then there was a period of bad weather, and on 5 May he went to the nearby village of Pangboche for its internet connection.

  He returned to BC on the 7th and moved up to C1 on the 9th and to C2 on the 10th. When he went inside his tent at C2, he discovered that gear he had left there (crampons, ice axe and down jacket) were gone.

  He could not climb higher without these vital items. He had arrived at C2 at 5:00 pm. An hour later, he left for C1, where he arrived at 11:00 pm. It had been difficult to descend to C1 on the slippery surface without crampons.

  He was back in BC on the 10th and left the same day to return to Kathmandu.


expid: AMAD12106
peakid: AMAD
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Igor Mitroshenkov
sponsor: MAI Expedition to Ama Dablam
bcdate: 2012-04-20
smtdate: 2012-05-03
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2012-05-06
campsites: BC(20/04),ABC(21/04,4600m),C1(23/04,5800m),C2(01/05,6000m),C3(02/05,6350m),Smt(03/05)
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
routememo:
  They started from C3 at 7:30 on 3 May, summited around 2 pm. The weather was windy, but sunny. Stayed about 1.5-2 hours at the summit and came back to C3 at 6:00 pm. They came to BC in Pangboche on 5 May.

  Irene Korolkova reached high point C2. Yuri Levin reached high point C3. Both abandoned the climb due to health conditions (didn't feel fit enough to continue).


expid: AMAD12108
peakid: AMAD
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: James Cox
sponsor: Freiburg Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Australia
bcdate: 2012-04-26
smtdate: 2012-05-03
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2012-05-05
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East to acclimatize by 2 Swiss and Nima from Taksindu
campsites: BC(26/04,4500m),C1(28/04,5750m),C2(02/05,6000m),Smt(03/05)
agency: Matterhorn Treks
routememo:
  The two Swiss members and Nima Sherpa (Taksindu) climbed Lobuche East on 23 April to acclimatize, then Ama Dablam BC was established the next day.

  The summit party consisted of the two Swiss members, Corpataux and Fasel, with the two Sherpas, Nima (Ghat) and Nima (Taksindu). They left C2 for the top at 3:30 am on 3 May and reached the summit at 10:00am. They were back in C2 to sleep at 4:00 pm. The whole team was togethter in BC on the 4th.

  Cox reached C1 twice: to acclimatize with the rest of the team, and 1 May when the others were on their way to establish C2 the following day. But he never went higher. He returned to BC the same day because there was not sufficient time for him to touch C2 and get back to BC the same day. He now had no expectation of going to the summit.

  Sherpas:
    Nima Sherpa, 11/1/77, Ghat, Solukhumbu, no 8000ers
    Nima Sherpa, 22/8/74, Taksindu, no 8000ers


expid: AMAD12109
peakid: AMAD
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yoshiteru Okuzono
sponsor: Saitama Ama Dablam Expedition 2012
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2012-04-26
smtdate: 2012-05-04
termdate: 2012-05-10
termnote: Abandoned at 6050m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(26/04,4600m),C1(29/04,5700m),C2(04/05,6050m),xxx(04/05,6050m)
agency: Rolwaling Trek
routememo:
  Team was on their summit attempt. There was a lot of snow on the mountain. When they climbed to C2 on 4 May it was good weather. They arrived at 5 pm. On 5 May the weather was bad and they waited another day. As it was not better on 6 May. They descended to BC and called off the expedition.


expid: AMAD12107
peakid: AMAD
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Edwin Lautner
bcdate: 2012-05-08
smtdate: 2012-05-14
termdate: 2012-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to bad weather and because did not want to climb alone
othersmts: Attempted Baruntse (BARU-121-03)
campsites: BC(08/05,4600m),xxx(14/05,5800m)
agency: Peak Promotion
primid: BARU12103
routememo:
  First, the whole team climbed Mera Peak on 2 May. From there, they tried to cross the Mingbo La in warm and foggy weather. They got to the top of the pass, but then found the descent on the other side impossible for the porters; they crossed the Amphu Laptsa instead, and here Nemec left the others with a Sherpa to climb Baruntse first while the other members went directly to Ama Dablam BC.

  The four members arrived at Ama Dablam BC on 8 May. There they learned that the route had not been fixed above C2. They had no Sherpas with them and they made no attempt to fix ropes or even to climb high with little time left at their disposal. On 9 May, all four reached 5300m (not even C1) as they were really just sightseeing, and returned to BC and to Deboche village the same day enroute to Lukla.


  Ama Dablam
    BC          12 May at 4600m
    High point  14 May at 5800m

  Climb abandoned at 14 May due to bad weather and he was alone.

  Nemec had a look at the mountain on his own. He reached 5800m in 3-1/2 hours from BC. Weather turned bad and he turned back to BC. He did not want to climb on his own and left.

  This was second time any of the expedition went to Ama Dablam. The other four were there 8-9 May.


expid: AMAD12105
peakid: AMAD
year: 2012
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Livio Belliardo
sponsor: Italian Ama Dablam
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2012-04-27
smtdate: 2012-05-08
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2012-05-12
campsites: BC(27/04,4700m),C1(01/05,5800m),C2(06/05,6050m),Smt(08/05)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  BC  27 Apr  4700m
  C1  01 May  5800m
  C2  06 May  6050m
  Smt 08 May  by Riba at 11 am.

  Riba and Belliardo tried for the summit on 7 May from C2. They got to 6300m but Belliardo felt very tired and at 10 am they turned back to C2, where they arrived at about noon. They stayed another night and the following morning at 2 am Riba left C2 to attempt the summit. Weather was clear and calm, but snow conditions were not too good. There was loose snow on blue ice.

  Riba reached the summit at 11 am, but had no views as he was in a cloud. He spent 30 minutes on the summit and returned to C2, where he arrived at 4:30 pm. Belliardo was still at C2 waiting for him. They spent the night there. On 9 May they descended to BC.

  Garro reached 5800m on 1 May. He stayed one night at C1, but he was not feeling well and descended to BC the following day. He stayed at BC for the rest of the expedition.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


expid: ANN112104
peakid: ANN1
year: 2012
route1: N Face
nation: China
leaders: Yang Chun-Feng
sponsor: Chinese Annapurna I Expedition
approach: Helicopter to Tatopani - BC
bcdate: 2012-03-27
smtdate: 2012-04-20
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2012-04-24
campsites: BC(27/04,4200m),C1(06/04,5500m),C2(07/04,6400m),C3(08/04,6600m),C4(19/04,6900m),Smt(20/04)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Yang, Rao, Pemba and Chumbe left C4 at 10 pm on 19 April and they got to the top at 8 am on 20 April. They stayed on summit for about 30 minutes, then descended to C4 at 11 am, rested there for a while, then went down to C1 where they arrived at about 4 pm. Next day 21 April to BC. The summit day weather was good, no clouds. The Chinese team was followed by the two Indian climbers and their Sherpas and also the American woman with her Sherpas.

  Snow conditions between C2 and C4 were deep snow; at some places it was waist-deep.


  Note: Several photos and comments have surfaced that give doubts to the status of all the summiters on 20 April 2012 for Annapurna I.

  One set of photos show the Indian team of Debasish Biswas and Basanta Singha Roy standing 50-60m below the top of the summit ridge with a climber dressed in red climbing towards the summit ridge high in the background.

  Another set of photos show the Chinese team of Yang Chun-Feng and Rao Jian-Feng (dressed in red) near the crest of the summit ridge. One Chinese and two Sherpas are shown on top of the crest and one Chinese and one Sherpa are shown as stopping below the crest. It also appears that the Chinese team did not proceed along the crest of the summit ridge to the true summit that is 20-50m further away in an upwardly horizontal direction.

  The widow of Rao states that her husband told her that Rao summited, but not Yang. Both Rao and Yao were killed in June 2013 when the base camp at Nanga Parbat was attacked by terrorists.

  Other comments put the American team of Cleo Weidlich and her Sherpa either above or below the Indian team, but not at the summit ridge.

  For the above reasons, these ascents are being marked as "disputed."


  Billi Bierling - 25 March 2105

  Chang Dawa Sherpa told Billi Bierling that Chang Dawa, Kami Sherpa, Jian-Feng Rao and Pecchumbe Sherpa reached the true summit, while all others stopped further down the mountain. Chang Dawa had photos of them on the true summit.


expid: ANN112105
peakid: ANN1
year: 2012
route1: N Face
nation: Iran
leaders: Farkondeh Sadegh
sponsor: Iranians on Annapurna I
approach: Tatopani
bcdate: 2012-03-26
smtdate: 2012-05-06
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2012-05-09
agency: Seven Summit Treks
campsites:
  BC(26/03,4100m),C1(30/03,5000m),C2(16/04,5500m),C3(18/04,6400m),C4(04/05,6800m),C5(05/05,7100m),Smt(06/05)

routememo:
  BC  26 Mar  4100m
  C1  30 Mar  5000m
  C2  16 Apr  5500m
  C3  18 Apr  6400m
  C4  04 May  6800m
  C5  05 May  7100m
  Smt 06 May  by Gheichisaz and Halung Dorchi at 8 am.

  Gheichisaz and Halung Dorchi left C5 at 10 pm on 5 May. The weather was clear and cold and about 40 cm of new snow on the ground. The climb was straightforward and they spent about 15 minutes on the summit to take photographs.

  Gheichisaz descended to C3 where he arrived at 11 am. Halung Dorchi stayed at C5 where he arrived at noon. He had problems with his left eye, probably related to the wind.

  The next day both descended to base camp.

  Sadegh reached C3 on 18 April. It was the day when an avalanche hit C3. They lost a bit of their equipment and their tent was destroyed. Sadegh was still intending to join the summit push, however, when they left for their attempt new snow had fallen and Sadegh considered the avalanche danger too high. She turned back at C2 on 2 May and stayed at BC for the rest of the expedition.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

  Sherpa:
    "Halung" Dorchi, Makalu-5, Makalu-Barun, 25/11/1989, Dhaulagiri I 26/4/2012
       with Iranian Mahmoud Shoaei


expid: ANN112106
peakid: ANN1
year: 2012
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Mexico
leaders: Maurizio Lopez
sponsor: Mexicans to Annapurna I & Dhaulagiri I
approach: Pokhara, to Tatopani by plane; Tatopani to BC by helicopter
bcdate: 2012-03-27
smtdate: 2012-04-18
smttime: 1900
termdate: 2012-05-06
termnote: Abandoned at 6450m due to too many avalanches, dangerous conditions
campsites: BC(27/03,4200m),C1(30/03,5050m),C2(31/03,5500m),C3(18/04,6450m),xxxx(18/04,6450m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  27 Mar  4200m
  C1  30 Mar  5050m
  C2  31 Mar  5500m
  C3  18 Apr  6450m
  HPt 18 Apr  by Lopez and Bonilla at 7 pm.

  Lopez and Bonilla reached C3 on 18 April on their first summit attempt. They were climbing with other members of the Seven Summit teams (Cleo Weidlich, Rosa Fernandez, Farkondeh Sadegh, Tunc Findik).

  On 18 April the team was in their tents at C3, when an avalanche hit the camp. Nobody was hurt but some of tents were destroyed. The next day everyone descended to BC. During the descent, another avalanche happened between C2 and C1 at about 11 am. The avalanche did not hurt anyone; they just got dusted.

  On 1st May, Lopez and Bonilla started together with Soria, Findik and other members of the Seven Summits team to attempt the summit. They went directly to C2. The following morning, they saw another avalanche near the camp.

  On 2 May they went to the plateau at 5700m and they saw another avalanche and decided to abandon the summit attempt and descend to BC. They wanted to wait for better weather, but when it did not improve they decided to abandon expedition. They thought the mountain was too dangerous and there were too many avalanches.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

  Fixed Rope: about 1500m by Seven Summit Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Sherpa, Makalu
    Kami Sherpa, Makalu


expid: ANN112107
peakid: ANN1
year: 2012
route1: N Face
nation: Peru
leaders: Richard Hidalgo
sponsor: Peruvian to Annapurna I
approach: Helicopter to Tatopani, three days trek to BC
bcdate: 2012-04-09
smtdate: 2012-05-06
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2012-05-09
achievment: 1st Peruvian to summit
agency: Seven Summit Treks
campsites:
  BC(09/04,4200m),C1(12/04,5050m),C2(13/04,5500m),C3(18/04,6400m),C4A(04/05,6850m),C4B(05/05,7100m),Smt(06/05)

routememo:
  Hidalgo left upper C4 at 11 pm on 5 May. He reached to the top at mid-day on 6 May. He stayed on summit for 40 minutes. The Spanish climber Sechu arrived later. Hidalgo got back to upper C4 at 6 pm. Next day on 7 May he went down to BC where he arrived at 11 pm. The summit day weather was good, but cold. Hidalgo said that the first one to reach summit on that day was Iranian climber together with a Sherpa from Seven Summit. Then comes two Czechs, 1 Spanish, Hidalgo himself and Spanish Sechu Lopez.


expid: ANN112108
peakid: ANN1
year: 2012
route1: N Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Oscar Cadiach
sponsor: Cadiach to Annapurna I & Dhaulagiri I
approach: By helicopter
bcdate: 2012-03-28
smtdate: 2012-05-06
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2012-05-12
othersmts: Climbed Dhaulagiri I on 25 May (DHA1-121-03)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
campsites:
  BC(28/03,4400m),C1(29/03,5000m),C2(30/03,5500m),C3(18/04,6400m),C4(04/05,6800m),C5(05/05,7200m),Smt(06/05)

routememo:
  BC  28 Apr  4400m
  C1  29 Apr  5000m
  C2  30 Apr  5500m
  C3  18 Apr  6400m
  C4  04 May  6800m
  C5  05 May  7200m
  Smt 06 May  by Cadiach at 11 am.

  First summit attempt was on 17 April together with Carlos Soria's team. On 18 April an avalanche hit the tents at C3. Nobody was hurt, but some of the tents were destroyed. When on the next day everyone descended to BC, Cadiach and Don Bowie from the USA stayed at C3 for another night. On 20 April they descended to BC.

  On summit push Cadiach left C4 at 9:30 pm on 5 May, together with Gheichisaz from the Iranian team. Conditions were good, but very cold and windy. They climbed up the couloirs towards the right, there was a lot of snow in the couloirs. He spent about 10 minutes on the summit. Weather was clear, but clouds came up during the descent. He descended to C5 where he arrived at about 5 pm.

  On 7 May he descended to BC. He left C5 at 10 am and arrived at BC at 8 pm.

  On 8 May Cadiach took helicopter to Tatopani, where he stayed for one day and then took a helicopter to Dhaulagiri BC for his next climb.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


expid: ANN112109
peakid: ANN1
year: 2012
route1: N Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Sergio (Sechu) Lopez
sponsor: Sechu to Annapurna
approach: Tatopani by helicopter
bcdate: 2012-03-27
smtdate: 2012-05-06
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2012-05-09
accidents: Left toe second-degree frostbite, right toe little frostbite
agency: Seven Summit Treks
campsites:
  BC(27/03,4200m),C1(30/03,5050m),C2(06/04,5500m),C3(18/04,6400m),C4A(04/05,6850m),C4B(05/05,7100m),Smt(06/05)

routememo:
  Sechu started his summit push from upper C4 at 10:15 am on 5 May. He got to the top at 1 pm on 6 May. He stayed on summit for 15 minutes, then returned upper C4 at 8 pm. Next day on 7 May Sechu spent night at C3. On 8 May he slept at C1. On 9 May he arrived BC at 11am.

  Sechu realized his frostbite when he reached BC. He was the last one to reach to the top on that day.


expid: ANN112110
peakid: ANN1
year: 2012
route1: N Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Carlos Soria
sponsor: BBVA Carlos Soria 2012 Annapurna Expedition
countries: Brazil
bcdate: 2012-03-29
smtdate: 2012-04-18
termdate: 2012-05-06
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to avalanches, bad weather
campsites: BC(29/03,4200m),C1(04/04,5100m),C2(06/04,5600m),C3(18/04,6400m),xxx(18/04,6400m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  29 Mar  4200m
  C1  04 Apr  5100m
  C2  06 Apr  5700m
  C3  18 Apr  6400m
  Hpt 18 Apr  6400m by Soria, Lagunilla, Niclevicz, Muktu, Sange, Norbu, 
              Pasang Temba, Jangbu.

  First summit attempt on 17 April by Soria, Lagunilla, Niclevicz, Muktu, Sange, Norbu, Pasang Temba, Jangbu. On 18 April the team was in their tents at C3, when an avalanche hit the camp. Nobody was hurt, but some of the tents were destroyed and they had to share one tent for the rest of the night. The next day everyone descended to BC. During the descent, another avalanche happened between C2 and C1 at about 11 am. The avalanche did not hurt anyone; they just got dusted.

  On 1 May, the same team left BC directly to C2, which they did in six hours. They stayed one night. There was another avalanche at 8 am but it did not hit C2. On 2nd May they went to the plateau at 5700m and they saw another avalanche and decided to abandon the summit attempt and descend to BC. They wanted to wait for better weather, but when it did not improve they decided to abandon expedition. They thought the mountain was too dangerous and there were too many avalanches.

  Lopez, Martinez and Salas reached C2 on 6 April. Lopez and Salas were filming and Martinez was the doctor and they were not intending to climb in these conditions. They stayed at BC for the rest of the expedition.

  Tena reached C1 on 4 April. He never intended to climb to the summit, as he was the journalist.

  On 6 May everyone flew to Pokhara and then everyone, apart from Niclevicz went trekking around Manaslu.

  Oxygen: Taken, not used

  Sherpas:
    Muktu Lhakpa (Muktuk) Tashigaon, Makalu-Barun, 21/8/72, Everest X3, K2 X1
    Sange Sherpa 12/1/92 (28/9/2049) (son of Muktuk), Tashigaon, Makalu-4, 
      Manaslu X3, Lhotse X1
    Nurbu, Nurbugaon, Makalu-Barun, 10/12/84, Everest X1, Lhotse X1, Kangch X1
    Pasang (Pasang Temba), Balakharka, Makalu-4, 20/2/83, Everest X4, 
      Cho Oyu X1, Makalu X1
    Jangbu, Kharikhola, Solu, 19/9/1979, Everest X3, Kangch X1, Annapurna X1


expid: ANN112111
peakid: ANN1
year: 2012
route1: N Face (1980 German rte)
nation: Turkey
leaders: Tunc Findik
sponsor: Turk on Annapurna I
approach: Flight to Pokhara, drive to Tatopani and helicopter to BC
bcdate: 2012-03-26
smtdate: 2012-05-02
termdate: 2012-05-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to avalanche danger
campsites: BC(26/03,4180m),C1(06/04,5100m),C2(12/04,5550m),xxx(02/05,6000m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Findik wrote in his email dated 4 May that the weather generally was very turbulent. Every day snowfall and windy, deep snow and avalanche danger, not enough time for acclimatization. Due to those reasons Findik quit climbing.


expid: ANN112112
peakid: ANN1
year: 2012
route1: N Face
nation: USA
leaders: Cleo Weidlich
sponsor: Weidlich Annapurna I Expedition
bcdate: 2012-03-30
smtdate: 2012-04-20
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2012-04-22
othersmts: Climbed Dhaulagiri (DHA1-121-09)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
campsites:
  BC(30/03,4100m),C1(31/03,4800m),C2(01/04,5500m),C3(07/04,6400m),TempC4(08/04,6600m),C4(19/04,7400m),Smt(20/04)

routememo:
  After Weidlich and Pema Tshering [see notes below] had established C2 at 5500m on 1 April, they descended to BC on the 2nd. On the 5th they resumed climbing and returned to C2. The 6th was spent fixing rope, and after fixing more rope on the 7th, later that day they pitched a high C3 at 6400m above the Dutch Rib; they had just climbed the rib and were to join the French route from C3.

  On the 8th, they made a temporary C4 at 6600m, then decided that they did not have enough gear, including a snowbars and rope, to cope successfully with the huge crevasse (12m across and 200m wide) 100 meters above the camp and reach the top. They returned to BC in the night of the 9th.

  On the 10th, they met a few members of Chinese and Indian teams, and they planned a joint summit push during the good weather window to be on 18 and 19 April, according to their Sherpas information. So Weidlich and Pema Tshering waited for this favorable weather period and rested at BC till the 16th, when the three parties started up again. They got to C2 that day and to C3 on the next day, the 17th. Here they saw that it was necessary to fix the lines again, so they slept at temporary C4.

  On the 19th, they moved up to normal C4 at 7400m in heavy snowfall and strong wind. Here Weidlich's fingers started to tingle and then feel as though they were burning (they still had the burning sensation in Kathmandu on the 25th). Nevertheless, she and Pema Tshering pressed on, and at 11:30 pm on the 19th, when the wind was still, Weidlich and Pema Tshering left for the  summit. They were on the top at 10:30 am on 20 April. Weidlich had to use her ice axe all the way to the top in the "beautiful weather." She and Pema Tshering spent the nights of the 20th in C4, 21st in C1, and 22nd back in BC. They had used 16 snowbars and 18-22 ice screws during their climb.

  On the 24th, she helicoptered from BC to Kathmandu. She damaged one knee badly on Kangchenjunga a year ago; she wears a metal brace on her leg while climbing. She cannot trek normally through French Pass on her way to and from BC.


  Note: Several photos and comments have surfaced that give doubts to the status of all the summiters on 20 April 2012 for Annapurna I.

  One set of photos show the Indian team of Debasish Biswas and Basanta Singha Roy standing 50-60m below the top of the summit ridge with a climber dressed in red climbing towards the summit ridge high in the background.

  Another set of photos show the Chinese team of Yang Chun-Feng and Rao Jian-Feng (dressed in red) near the crest of the summit ridge. One Chinese and two Sherpas are shown on top of the crest and one Chinese and one Sherpa are shown as stopping below the crest. It also appears that the Chinese team did not proceed along the crest of the summit ridge to the true summit that is 20-50m further away in an upwardly horizontal direction.

  The widow of Rao states that her husband told her that Rao summited, but not Yang. Both Rao and Yao were killed in June 2013 when the base camp at Nanga Parbat was attacked by terrorists.

  Other comments put the American team of Cleo Weidlich and her Sherpa either above or below the Indian team, but not at the summit ridge.

  For the above reasons, these ascents are being marked as "disputed."


  Billi Bierling - 25 March 2015

  Chang Dawa Sherpa told Billi Bierling that Chang Dawa, Kami Sherpa, Jian-Feng Rao and Pecchumbe Sherpa reached the true summit, while all others stopped further down the mountain. Chang Dawa had photos of them on the true summit.


  Billi Bierling - 30 April 2019

  Dawa Sange was with Cleo rather than Pema Chhiring/Pemba Sherpa.


expid: ANN412101
peakid: ANN4
year: 2012
route1: NW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Eben Reckord
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Annapurna IV Expedition 2012
countries: Finland
approach: Besisahar->Humre
bcdate: 2012-04-19
smtdate: 2012-05-11
termdate: 2012-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 6785m due to storm and snow
campsites: BC(19/04,4700m),C1(24/04,5355m),C2(03/05,5944m),C3(11/05,6500m),xxx(11/05,6785m)
agency: Beyul Adventure
routememo:
  BC  19 Apr  4700m
  C1  24 Apr  5335m
  C2  03 May  5944m
  C3  11 May  6302m
  HPt 11 May  6502m by Johnston, Laiho, Piestrak, Reckord.

  High-point team took about 7-1/2 hours from C2 to C3. They stayed one night at C3. It was very stormy and it snowed a lot. The morning was beautiful, but their weather forecast predicted bad weather again within 12 hours, so they decided to descend to BC. They left at 7:30 am and got to BC at 4:30 pm.

  Phinjo Sherpa and Thunang Lhomi Bhote reached 6785m on 11 May to fix the rope. They did not continue farther up as there was too much snow. They turned back to C3 and stayed the night there.

  Medlar reached C1 on 24 April and stayed three nights there; he left expedition as he did not enjoy it any more.

  Wilson never left Kathmandu; he flew back on 11 April due to a family emergency.

  Oxygen: Taken, not used

  Sherpas:
    Phinzo/Phinjo, Phortse, 23/4/71, Manaslu 9/10/01, 
      Everest 17/5/00, 21/5/03, 23/5/06, 22/5/09, 23/5/10
    Thunang Lhomi Bhote, (17/4/2043) 1/18/86, Hatiya VDC, Hungung, no 8000ers


expid: ANN412102
peakid: ANN4
year: 2012
route1: N Ridge-NW Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Alex Bijlsma
sponsor: Dutch Annapurna IV expedition
approach: Braga to Subje Khola
bcdate: 2012-05-04
smtdate: 2012-05-21
termdate: 2012-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to huge crevasse
campsites: BC(04/05,4800m),C1(10/05,5377m),C2(11/05,5963m),C3(19/05,6352m),C4(20/05,6527m),xxx(21/05,6900m)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  The Dutch couple, Alex Bijlsma and his wife, Ans Bijlsma-Nahuys, three Sherpas set out for the summit from C4 at 3:00 am on 21 May. The weather that day was "perfect" blue sky, no winds, not cold. But the two Sherpas who went ahead to break trail were up to their knees in loose sugary snow. It took the team four hours to get from C4 at 6527m to 6900m.

  There in a very steep (70 degrees) area, they encountered a huge crevasse 3.5m wide. Their head Sherpa, Tendi, said it was impossible to cross or to go around. They had no option but to abandon the climb.

  Even if it had been possible to surmount this obstacle, they would not have summited before 2:00 pm because the warm sun would have made progress even slower. This would have made their return to C4 too late. They turned around at the crevasse and were back in C4 at midday.

  They descended to C1 22 May. As they reached C3 and C2, they found that an avalanche had taken away fixed ropes the Sherpas had used to get to C2. Furthermore C2 was in the path of avalanching. They were therefore forced to go down all the way to C1 that day.

  They were back safely in BC on the 23rd.

  Their high point of 6900m had been reached by the Dutch couple and their three Sherpas (and by the independent American).

  Sherpas:

    Dawa Sherpa, 30/12/66 (15/9/2023), Garma-5, Solu
    Ngima Dorji Tamang, 3/12/73, Gorakhani-7 (near Tapting), Solu
    Tendi Sherpa, 12/03/60, Tapting-6, Solu, Cho Oyu X1 (1/10/06)


expid: ANN412103
peakid: ANN4
year: 2012
route1: NW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Nathaniel Weiss
sponsor: International Annapurna IV Expedition
approach: Subje Khola
bcdate: 2012-05-04
smtdate: 2012-05-21
termdate: 2012-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to huge crevasse
campsites: BC(04/05,4750m),C1(17/05,5250m),C2(18/05,5800m),C3(19/05,6200m),C4(20/05,6500m),xxx(21/05,6900m)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  Weiss was on the same permit, and looked after by the same trekking agency, as the Dutch couple, Mr & Mrs. Bijlsma, and they went to BC together. But Weiss moved independently of them: he arrived at C1 and C2 at later dates than they. However, all three went to C3 and C4 on the same dates.

  On the day of their summit push from C4, Weiss said he left C4 "too late" (but he couldn't remember what time that was). He turned back at the big crevasse at 6900m which also turned back the Bijlsma's because of its vast size, and returned to C4 that day. On the next day, he descended all the way to BC, while the Dutch stopped in C1.

  Weiss appeared not to know the form for going to a Nepalese mountain. He brought with him only his own clothes and ice axe; no tent, sleeping bag, stove, gas or food, all of which he said were provided by their trekking agent.

  The Dutch said he was "not able to handle situations;" he did not know how to tie onto the fixed ropes, for example.


expid: APIM12101
peakid: APIM
year: 2012
route1: S Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Takaaki Nagato
sponsor: Team Giri Giri Boys Api Expedition 2012
bcdate: 2012-04-14
smtdate: 2012-05-11
termdate: 2012-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 5000m due to very difficult route
campsites: BC(14/04,3800m),xxx(11/05,5500m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  The three-member Japanese got to Api in the far northwest by taking a two-day bus trip from Kathmandu to Dadeldhura and then north to Gokuleshwar on a branch of the Mahakali River. Next they trekked two hours east from Gokuleshwar, then a three-day trek north-northeast and north to BC via Makarkot, Ghunsa and Khaekot along the Chamalaya Nadi (river) to the small Joge Tal (lake).

  They pitched their BC on 14 April at 3800m near Joge Tal. From there they made an acclimatization trip west of BC to the mountain ridge called Namlung Lekh and on 25 April reached 5900m on this ridge. On the 27th they returned to BC.

  Now wet snow fell, and they were delayed until 8 May, when they were able to leave BC for their climb of Api. All three members climbed together all the time. They went to Api's South Face, due north of BC. They made a series of three bivouacs on the very steep (sometimes to 90-degree) face, up mostly bare rock but with some patches of snow. They reached 5500m on 11 May. But now they were confronted by overhanging rock which they couldn't get over or around.

  On 12 May they descended to BC and the climb was finished. They left BC on 14 May via the same trekking route they had followed coming in. But they flew from Dhangari to Kathmandu on 21 May.


expid: ARNK12101
peakid: ARNK
year: 2012
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Mick Chapman
sponsor: Australian Arniko Chuli Expedition
ascent1: 3rd
countries: New Zealand, UK
bcdate: 2012-06-24
smtdate: 2012-06-26
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2012-06-27
campsites: BC(24/06,5546m),Smt(26/06)
agency: Himalayan Mountain Guides
routememo:
  On 11 May, the team flew from Kathmandu to Pokhara and then to Jomsom, from where they trekked north parallel to the Kali Gandaki River through Ghami village to the village of Lo Manthang. They stayed in Lo Manthang from the 16th to 19th to witness a special festival. There they were required to pay Rs 1200 for the services of a local escort who made sure that they did not cross a ridge of hills called Kekyap Danda during the growing season (April-May now, later August-September) because to do so would bring a natural disaster. (The people of Ghami also hold this belief, and probably the villagers living between these two places think so too.)

  Therefore, to reach their BC site, the team had to retrace their steps southward halfway back to Ghami before moving west along the Ghyung Khola and from the rivulet to BC east-southeast of their mountain. They got to BC on 24 May.

  On the 26th the whole team of eight members and three Sherpas moved to the summit of Arniko Chuli via its SE Ridge. They left BC at 4:45 am and actually simply trekked to the mountain's high point, which they reached at 9:00 am. They were back in BC at 12:30, just after noon.

  The group returned to Lo Manthang on 30 May and to Jomsom on 8 June. From Jomsom they flew to Pokhara on the 9th and to Kathmandu on the 11th.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Ongchhu Sherpa, 52/2/86, Lukla (brother of Lhakpa Tshering)
    Mingmar Sherpa, 10/8/70, Taksindu
    Lhakpa Tshering Sherpa, 7/10/80, Lukla (brother of Dawa Ongchhu)


expid: BAMO11101
peakid: BAMO
year: 2011
route1: N Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Josef Einwaller
approach: By car to Simikot->Beding->Na
bcdate: 2011-04-01
smtdate: 2011-04-11
termdate: 2011-04-13
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to avalanche danger
campsites: BC(01/04,5000m),C1(08/04,5400m),C2(10/04,5900m),xxx(11/04,6100m)
agency: Numbur Himal Treks
routememo:
  BC  01/04  5000m
  C1  08/04  5400m
  C2  10/04  5900m
  HPt 11/04  6100m

  Team did not continue beyond C2 due to too much snow and avalanches.

  Fixed rope from C1 to C2: 300m

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Gyalzen, Beding, Dolakha, 17/3/1972


expid: BARU12102
peakid: BARU
year: 2012
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Thomas Schmidt
sponsor: Blue Mountain Baruntse Expedition
approach: Lukla
bcdate: 2012-05-13
smtdate: 2012-05-16
termdate: 2012-05-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6930m due to crevasse
campsites: BC(13/05,5400m),C1(14/05,6100m),C2(15/05,6400m),xxx(16/05,6930m)
agency: Geo Adventure
routememo:
  BC  13 May  5400m
  C1  14 May  6100m
  C2  15 May  6400m
  HPt 16 May  6930m by Flohr, Schmidt, Chhiri Rai.

  Schmidt, Flohr and Chhiri went to C2 on 15 May to fix the ropes. They did not carry the tent so they had to go back to C1 to collect more equipment.

  Flohr and Chhiri ascended to C2 again and Schmidt decided to stay at C1 as he was tired. He started his summit attempt from C1 at 4 am and reached Flohr and Chhiri at C2 at 5:30 am. They reached the big crevasse near the summit at 12:30 pm. It was clear that they could not cross it and started their descent.

  Flohr and Chhiri slept at C2, where they arrived at 4 pm and Schmidt carried on to C1, where he arrived at 5 pm. On 17 May they descended to BC.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

  Sherpa:
    Chhiri Rai, Gudel-7, Solukhumbu, 17/5/1977, no 8000m experience


expid: BARU12103
peakid: BARU
year: 2012
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Edwin Lautner
approach: West Col
bcdate: 2012-05-07
smtdate: 2012-05-10
termdate: 2012-05-11
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to huge crevasse
othersmts: Attemted Ama Dablam by Nemec (AMAD-121-07)
campsites: BC(07/05,5400m),C2(08/05,6400m),xxx(10/05,6900m)
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  Team stayed 2 nights at C2 on 10 May. They left C2 at 7 pm. They reached high point at 1:30 pm. The crevasse near summit was about 5m wide and impossible to cross. They descended to BC, where they arrived at 6 pm.

  Hired:
    Dawa Sangmu Bhote, 6/9/77, Sankhuwasabha, Hatiya-3


  Email from Edwin Lautner to Miss Hawley - June 11, 2012

  I want to give you a short report of Peter's attempt on Baruntse, because he cancelled his journey earlier and went back to Austria. So he couldn't meet you in Kathmandu.

  In the beginning Peter was with us on our trip. We went from Lukla over Zatrawala La to Mera Peak. We all climbed Mera Peak in windy and cold conditions and continued to Mingbo La base camp. We climbed the pass but didn't cross it, because weather wasn't good and porters were not prepared to do it. I would say it is almost impossible to cross Mingbo La with porters, because the conditions on glacier changed a lot (you need steep abseiling for about 200 meters).

  It is a very beautiful, unknown valley there with some nice possibilities for climbing 6000m peaks. Probably we have been the first team on Mingbo La for the last 5-6 yrs.

  However...
  We couldn't cross to Ama Dablam basecamp via Mingbo La so Peter Nemec decided to go to Baruntse basecamp earlier. He came with us until Amphu Laptsa basecamp and went to Baruntse BC next day.

  He climbed only with climbing Sherpa Ang Dawa from Peak Promotion. They had 3 porters.

  They reached C2 without problems but had to stay there for two nights because of bad weather.

  Next day Peter broke trail all the way until about 6900m. Peter told me it is where the ridge becomes small and exposed. There they had to turn back, because a huge crevasse cut the ridge. He said it was about 5 meters wide and 20 meters deep. Possibly they would have found a bypass but the climbing Sherpa didn't want to continue. Peter didn't feel confident with him, his technical knowledge wasn't convincing.

  He descended, crossed Amphu Laptsa and went to Ama Dablam BC. He was in very good shape, climbed to C1 in only 3.5 hours but decided to return to Kathmandu and Austria, because NOBODY, no other expedition was there!


expid: BARU12104
peakid: BARU
year: 2012
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Slovakia
leaders: Vladimir Strba
sponsor: Slovakians to Baruntse
bcdate: 2012-05-10
smtdate: 2012-05-13
termdate: 2012-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to member's pulmonary edema
campsites: BC(10/05,5400m),xxx(13/05,6100m)
agency: Utmost Adventure
routememo:
  BC near lake normal site
  High point at C1 site.

  The two Slovakians and Danuri Sherpa flew to Lukla on 28 April and established BC at 5400m at the normal site near a lake just west of the West Col on 10 May. Three days later they pitched C1 at 6100m but returned to BC immediately without occupying it.

  Dobrota developed pulmonary edema that afternoon, and both members flew by helicopter to Kathmandu on 14 May, one to return to their hotel and the other to be admitted to a hospital. They left Nepal on the 16th.

  Sherpa:
    Danuri Sherpa, 14/2/86 (3/11/2042), Jantarkhani-1, Okhaldhunga, no 8000ers


expid: CHOY11307
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: S Korea
leaders: Hong Bo-Seong
sponsor: Dynamic Busan Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2011-09-02
smtdate: 2011-09-23
smttime: 0945
termdate: 2011-09-25
campsites: BC(02/09,4800m),ABC(04/09,5700m),C1(08/09,6400m),C2(14/09,7100m),C3(22/09,7550m),Smt(23/09)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  Kim and Seo started their summit bid at 4 am CST from C3 on 23 Sept. They got to the top at 12 noon (9:45 am NST) and stayed on summit about one hour. Kim Jae-Soo and Son, other Korean climbers along with their Sherpa, were also on the summit at the same time. Kim and Seo descended C3 and spent the night there. Next day on 24 Sept they went down to BC. The summit day weather was cloudy and windy. About 300m long way up to summit had knee-deep snow. They had glimpse of Everest and Lhotse. On that day Kim Hong-Bin also summited.


expid: CHOY11306
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Jae-Soo
sponsor: Kolon Sport Cho Oyu Expeditin
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2011-09-02
smtdate: 2011-09-23
smttime: 0945
termdate: 2011-09-25
campsites: BC(02/09,4800m),ABC(04/09,5700m),C1(08/09,6400m),C2(14/09,7100m),C3(22/09,7550m),Smt(23/09)
achievment: Kim formally completed all 14 peaks in 8000m
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  The Kim team left C3 at 4 am (CST) on 23 September. Kim, Son and Pemba reached summit at 12 noon (9:45 am NST) along with other 2 Korean climbers of Dynamic Busan - Kim Chang-Ho, Seo and independent climber Kim Hong-Bin. They stayed on summit for about 50 minutes and descended to C3 where they spent the night. Next day 24 Sept the team went down to ABC. The summiters saw Everest and Lhotse for a short time. They did not find any Lungta flags on the summit. Son put the oxygen cyclinder at the summit point with Khata. The summit day weather was cloudy, windy and knee deep snow. Kim started Kolon Sport project in 2007 to climb 14 peaks above 8000m. The Project completed in 23 Sept 2011. The Project included another Korean member Miss Go who had climbed 11 peaks above 8000m. She died on Nanga Parbat on her descent in 2009 July.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Dorchi Sherpa, 1/9/1984, Makalu-5

  Tashi Sherpa went up to C2; he suffered from chest pain, headache and stomach problem.


expid: CHOY12101
peakid: CHOY
year: 2012
route1: NW side
nation: S Africa
leaders: Sean Disney
sponsor: Adventure Dynamics Cho Oyu 2012
bcdate: 2012-04-11
smtdate: 2012-05-07
smttime: 0912
termdate: 2012-05-10
campsites: BC(11/04,4800m),ABC(15/04,5700m),C1(21/04,6400m),C2(27/04,7200m),C3(06/05,7600m),Smt(07/05)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Five members and five Sherpas went to the top on 7 May. The party set out from C3 at 1:00 am on the 7th, and all were on the summit between 9:12 am (Bezuidenhout) and about 11:00 am (O'Connor). All descended to C2 to sleep that night; they arrived there between 4:00 and 6:00 pm.

  Disney went up with the rest of the team to C3 on 6 May, but was too tired to continue to the top the next morning. All members were down in ABC on the 8th.

  Members used oxygen from C3 to the top to C2, Sherpas from 8000m to top to C3.

  O'Connor got mild frostbite in several fingers and toes, which became numb. One of Nima Sherpa's toes was broken by a rock falling on it when he got down to 7900m while descending from the summit.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Chhiring Sherpa, 25/10/88, Lelep, Taplejung, no 8000ers
    Lhakpa Sherpa, 11/10/78, Zarok, Namche-4, Khumbu, Everest X5
    Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa, 22/11/80, Thami, Khumbu, Everest X6, Manalsu X1
    Nima Sherpa, 2/12/72, Sikli, Jubing-9, Solu, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X4
    Sonam Bhote, 13/12/81, Ghunsa, Lelep-9, Taplejung, Everest X2, Lhotse X1


expid: CHOY12102
peakid: CHOY
year: 2012
route1: NW side
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Andreas Neuschmid
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Xixabangma and Cho Oyu Expedition 2012
countries: Austria, Germany
bcdate: 2012-05-16
smtdate: 2012-05-25
smttime: 0500
termdate: 2012-05-27
othersmts: Climbed Xixabangma
campsites: BC(16/05,5000m),ABC(18/05,5700m),C1(22/05,6300m),C2(23/05,7000m),C3(24/05,7400m),Smt(25/05)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  BC  16 May  5000m
  ABC 18 May  5700m
  C1  22 May  6300m
  C2  23 May  7000m
  C3  24 May  7400m
  Smt 25 May  by Bock and Tembe at 5am, Lavaud, Meier, Neuschmid, Wenger, 
              Nimgma Tendu, Nima Tshering, Dendi at 6 am.

  Wenger, Both and Weyermann left C3 at 8 pm, the rest of the summit team left C3 at 10 pm. Both and Weyermann turned back at midnight at 7900m due to fatigue and exhaustion. They descended to ABC, where they arrived at 6 pm.

  Summit team carried on. Good conditions, little snow above the Yellow Band. They saw Everest. They spent about 30 minutes on summit.

  Meier and Wenger descended to C1, where they arrived at 4 pm. Bock descended to ABC, where he arrived at 6 pm. Lavaud and Neuschmid descended to ABC, where they arrived at 7:30 pm. On 26 May everyone was back at ABC. They left BC on 27 May. 

  The members climbed Xixabangma before they went to Cho Oyu. 

  Schaefer never reached BC. He left after the Xixabangma climb. 

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from 7900m to top by Lavaud.
    Other members and Sherpas no oxygen.

  Sherpas:
    Ningma Tendu, Makalu-9, Makalu-Barun, 14/09/82
    Nima Tshering, Lelep-9, Taplejung, 17/10/65, Everest X1
    Dendi, Deku, Taksindu-5, Solu, 22/1/1983, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1
    Temba Sherpa, Lelep-9, Ghunsa, 15/4/87


expid: CHOY12105
peakid: CHOY
year: 2012
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Max Kausch
sponsor: SummitClimb Cho Oyu Expedition 2012
countries: Canada, Germany, Japan, Netherlands
bcdate: 2012-04-29
smtdate: 2012-05-25
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2012-05-27
campsites: BC(29/04,4900m),ABC(01/05,5300m),C1(09/05,6450m),C2(14/05,7150m),C3(24/05,7450m),Smt(25/05)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  Four members, Kausch, Van 'T Hof, Ohtsuka and Jaiser, left C3 for the top at 2:00 am (NST) on 25 May with three Sherpas, Dawa Jangbu, Lhakpa Tendu and Palden Nima. Sixty four year old Ohtsuka became exhausted and turned back at 8000m and Lhakpa Tendu went down with him. The other three members and two Sherpas continued to the summit; Kausch, Jaiser and Palden Nima arrived there at 10:30 am while Van'T Hof and Dawa Jangbu summited at 12:00 noon.

  In their descent, the leader Kausch was the first to return to C3 at 3:00 pm with Palden Nima, and the last were Jaiser and Dawa Jangbu at 6:00 pm. When he had gotten down to 7600m., Jaiser fell 15 meters, but he got only a cut above his eyebrow. The next day, Ohtsuka and Van'T Hof went down to C1 and to ABC on the 27th while the others arrived at ABC on the 26th.

  Oxygen was used by two members only. Ohtsuka was on oyxgen from C3 to his high point to C2. The leader, Kausch, used it from C3 to the summit to C3. None of the climbers used it.

  Non-summiting members:

  Edward Maczuga never got above BC because of a sinus infection and left on 30 April, the day after the team arrived at BC.

  Thomas Meier had one artificial leg, and he found the surface of the route too slippery. He reached 6200m in early May, left the team on 6 May.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Jangbu Sherpa, 4/6/79, Patle, Okhaldhunga, Everest X9, Cho Oyu X1
    Lhakpa Tendu Sherpa, 28/4/77 (15/12/2033), Patle, Okhaldhunga, no 8000ers
    Palden Nima Sherpa, 29/8/78, Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1


expid: CHOY12106
peakid: CHOY
year: 2012
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Fernando Garrido
sponsor: Spanish Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2012-04-23
smtdate: 2012-05-09
termdate: 2012-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to too much wind
campsites: BC(23/04,4900m),ABC(26/04,5700m),C1(03/05,6400m),C2(09/05,7200m),xxx(09/05,7200m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  23 Apr  4900m
  ABC 26 Apr  5700m
  C1  03 May  6400m
  C2  09 May  7200m
  HPt 09 May  7200m by all members.

  Team was on its acclimatization rotation when they reached C2 on 9 May. They took about 8 hours to get there. The next day they descended to BC to rest and get ready for the summit. However, as the strong winds that had been howling all season had not abated they decided to cancel the expedition. They left some gear at C2 and are hoping that some Sherpas from another expedition will bring it down.

  They left BC on 14 May.

  Oxygen: Not taken not used


expid: CHOY12107
peakid: CHOY
year: 2012
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Minoru Murakoshi
sponsor: Japanese on Cho Oyu
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2012-04-16
smtdate: 2012-05-07
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2012-05-11
campsites: BC(16/04,5000m),ABC(20/04,5600m),C1(04/05,6350m),C2(05/05,7200m),C3(06/05,7700m),Smt(07/05)
agency: Himalayan Sherpa Adventure (Snowy Horizon pmt)
routememo:
  Murakoshi and Pasang Dawa left C3 at 4 am NST on 7 May and reached the top at 2:30 pm. They stayed on summit for about 30 minutes and returned to C3 between 6-7 pm nearly dark. Next day 8 May they spent night at C2. On 9 May Murakoshi and Pasang spent night at C1. On 10 May both arrived ABC. Summit was covered by snow. They saw prayer flags on the summit. Before Murakoshi team Mexican climber Eva Martinez got to the summit on that day.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Dawa Sherpa, 18/11/78, Chaurikharka, Cho Oyu X2


expid: CHOY12108
peakid: CHOY
year: 2012
route1: NW side
nation: Slovakia
leaders: Gustav Stibranyi
sponsor: Monterosa International Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2012-04-16
smtdate: 2012-05-09
termdate: 2012-05-19
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due stolen stuff in C2 and bad weather
campsites: BC(16/04,4900m),ABC(20/04,5700m),C1(26/04,6363m),C2(09/05,7200m),xxx(09/05,7200m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  On his supposed to be summit push Stibranyi and Pasang reached C2 on 9 May. Stibranyi found his climbing gear, gas stove and oxygen cylinders missing. Then his Sherpa told Stibranyi not to try for summit. They spent two nights at C2, then went down to ABC. Stibranyi said that the ropes used on the climbing route was not of good quality.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Gyalze, 30/9/1964, Walung, Makalu-9, Cho Oyu X3, Dhaulagiri X1


expid: CHOY12103
peakid: CHOY
year: 2012
route1: NW side
nation: Mexico
leaders: Eva Martinez
sponsor: Mexican Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2012-04-15
smtdate: 2012-05-07
smttime: 1445
termdate: 2012-05-19
campsites: BC(15/04,5400m),ABC(19/04,5700m),C1(26/04,6300m),C2(06/05,7135m),Smt(07/05)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Martinez left C2 at 2 pm CST of 6 May. She got to the top at 5 pm (2:45 pm NST) of 7 May, stayed on summit for five minutes. It was cloudy and could not see Everest.  There was a red oxygen cyclinder with yellow colour lower part and she saw small heap of prayer flags about 5 meters away from the cyclinder. Other climbers followed her were Andrey, Sergey and a Japanese with Sherpa. She returned to C2 at 11 pm and spent night in other expedition's tent. Next day 8 May she slept at C1. On 9 May she went down to ABC. The summit day weather was very bad, cloudy, windy and snowfall.


expid: DHA111303
peakid: DHA1
year: 2011
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Carlos Soria
sponsor: Dhaulagiri 2011 Expedition
approach: See route details
bcdate: 2011-09-08
smtdate: 2011-10-02
termdate: 2011-10-08
termnote: Abandoned at 6385m due to lots of snow and danger of avalanches
campsites: BC(08/09,4600m),C1(30/09,5900m),xxx(02/10,6385m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Approah: Beni->Babia Chaur->Dharapani->Muri->Bogara->Dobang->Jungle Camp->Italian Camp.  

  Soria and Carcavilla went up to 6385m during their acclimatization on 2 October and went down to C1 where they spent the night. Next day 3 October they went down to BC.

  All other members touched C1 on 18 September, but they did not sleep there.


expid: DHA112103
peakid: DHA1
year: 2012
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Oscar Cadiach
sponsor: Cadiach to Annapurna I & Dhaulagiri I
approach: Tatopani
bcdate: 2012-05-10
smtdate: 2012-05-25
smttime: 1630
termdate: 2012-05-27
othersmts: Climbed Annapurna on 6 May (ANN1-121-08)
campsites: BC(10/05,4800m),C1(14/05,5600m),C2(15/05,6600m),C3(16/05,7200m),C4(24/05,7700m),Smt(25/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  10 May  4800m
  C1  14 May  5600m
  C2  15 May  6600m
  C3  16 May  7200m
  C4  24 May  7700m
  Smt 25 May  by Cadiach at 4:30 pm.

  First summit attempt was on 17 May. Cadiach reached about 7700m together with Kami Sherpa, however they turned back as they were too tired and it was very cold. They had left from C3 at 7200m and it had been a long way. Kami suffered frostbite on two fingers on right hand. They both descended to BC the same day. Kami took a helicopter to go back to Kathmandu three days later.

  On second summit attempt Cadiach and Miguel Angel Perez (from Chomolungma Pilgrimage) did not stay at C2, but went from C1 to C3 directly, which was very exhausting. On summit day, they left C4 at 6 am. Conditions were good; weather was windy and clear. Up to the traverse the snow was knee-deep.

  Last section technically difficult and very exposed. They took 10 hours to get to summit, where they spent about 10 minutes. They descended to C5, where they arrived at 5 pm. They found Cleo and her Sherpa, who were on their way to the summit, in their tent. Cadiach and Perez could not sleep or eat and were very exhausted.

  On 26 May Perez and Cadiach were attempting to reach BC, but could not make it one day due to fatigue. At 10 pm they set up a bivouac at 5500m, where they spent the night. They slept until 4 am descended to BC, where they were picked up by helicopter at 7 am.

  Oxygen: not taken, not used.

  Sherpa: 
    Kami Sherpa, Sedua, Makalu-5, 29/9/66, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1, Makalu X1, 
      Manaslu X1


expid: DHA112105
peakid: DHA1
year: 2012
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Libor Uher
sponsor: Czechs to Dhaulagiri I
bcdate: 2012-04-20
smtdate: 2012-05-17
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2012-05-19
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to too much snow
campsites: BC(20/04,4605m),C1(22/04,5800m),C2(28/04,6600m),C3(16/05,7300m),xxx(17/05,7800m)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  BC  20 Apr  4605m
  C1  22 Apr  5800m
  C2  28 Apr  6600m
  C3  16 May  7300m
  HPt 17 May  7800m by Masek and Novotny at 7 am.

  High point team left C3 at 7:30 am. It was clear and windy. First 100m the snow was firm but after it was very deep. When they reached the bottom of the couloirs, they decided to turn back due to too much snow and avalanche danger in the couloirs.

  They descended to BC where they arrived at 6:30 pm.

  Uher and Petrecek reached 6700m on 16 May. They were both not well and felt sick to the stomach. They descended to BC.

  Team left BC on 19 May.

  Oxygen: not taken, not used.


expid: DHA112106
peakid: DHA1
year: 2012
route1: NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Ryan Waters
sponsor: Waters to Dhaulagiri & Lhotse
countries: Norway
bcdate: 2012-04-13
smtdate: 2012-05-10
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2012-05-12
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to bad weather & going to Khumbu
othersmts: Climbed Lhotse on 25 May (LHOT-121-06)
campsites: BC(13/04,4700m),C1(23/04,5800m),C2(24/04,6700m),xxx(10/05,7000m)
agency: Himalayan Trailblazer
routememo:
  BC  13 Apr  4700m
  C1  23 Apr  5800m
  C2  24 Apr  6700m
  HPt 10 May  7000m by Waters.

  Waters was on his summit push and started from C2 at 4 am. The weather was bad and as both Waters and Skog were intending to go to the Khumbu to climb Lhotse, he decided to turn back at about 6 am. He descended to BC the same day.

  Skog reached C2 on 1 May. She stayed the night, but could not sleep as she was very scared of the avalanches on the mountain. She decided to go down the next day and not go up.

  On 12 May, they took a helicopter from BC to Kathmandu and then from Kathmandu to Gorak Shep. They arrived at Everest BC the same day.

  Oxygen: not taken, not used.


expid: DHA112107
peakid: DHA1
year: 2012
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Wilfried Studer
sponsor: Austrian Dhaulagiri I Expedition
approach: Darban
bcdate: 2012-04-27
smtdate: 2012-05-08
termdate: 2012-05-12
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(27/04,4600m),C1(07/05,5700m),C2(08/05,6600m),xxx(08/05,6600m)
agency: High Country Trekking
routememo:
  BC  27 Apr  4600m
  C1  07 May  5700m
  C2  08 May  6600m
  HPt 08 May  6600m.

  The entire team reached C2 on 8 May. This was the first time they reached C2 as it was not possible to go up earlier. They spent the night at C2; however, there was a big thunderstorm and huge snowfall. The Studer family decided to descend on the morning of 9 May while the other three members (Goger, Klaus and Land) stayed another night at C2 to wait for better weather. As the weather did not improve they descended on 10 May.

  Everybody left BC on 12 May and walked to Jomsom.

  Oxygen: not taken, not used.


expid: DHA112108
peakid: DHA1
year: 2012
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Marco Confortola
sponsor: Confortola to Dhaulagiri
bcdate: 2012-04-10
smtdate: 2012-05-17
termdate: 2012-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to bad weather and cold feet
campsites: BC(10/04,4800m),C1(13/04,5800m),C2(14/04,6500m),C3(16/05,7300m),xxx(17/05,7500m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  BC  10 Apr  4800m	
  C1  13 Apr  5800m
  C2  14 Apr  6500m
  C3  16 May  7300m
  HPt 17 May  7500m by Confortola, Pasang Lama Bhote.

  High point team left C3 at 1 am. They were going to leave earlier, but it was too windy. When they arrived at the bottom of the traverse at 4:30 am the wind started again and they waited for one hour for the wind to abate. Confortola, who had lost some of his toes on K2, had very cold feet and decided to descend. They cleared the camps and arrived at BC at 3 pm. On 20 May they walked to Jomsom in 12 hours and flew to Kathmandu on 21 May.

  Oxygen: not taken, not used.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Lama Bhote (Hatiya-1, Makalu-Barun) 17/10/1984, Everest X2, Lhotse X2, 
      Manaslu X1, Makalu X1


expid: DHA112109
peakid: DHA1
year: 2012
route1: NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Cleo Weidlich
bcdate: 2012-05-03
smtdate: 2012-05-26
smttime: 1521
termdate: 2012-05-29
othersmts: Climbed Annapurna (ANN1-121-12)
campsites: BC(03/05,4600m),C1(12/05,5400m),C2(13/05,6400m),C3(14/05,7200m),C4(25/05,7550m),Smt(26/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  C2 at bottom of face
  C3 at above Dutch Rib at French couloir.

  Cleo and Pema Tshering made their C1 not at the NE Col like most teams, but across the NE Ridge to a flat area on the southern side of the ridge. Their C2, C3 and C4 were on the ridge itself.

  There was a period of very windy weather when they did not climb high, but they were able to make their summit push from 23 May, when they reoccupied C3, stayed there one day, moved up to pitch C4 on 25 May, a day of extremely strong wind.

  On 26 May they made their final dash to the top. Despite the winds, they left C4 at 7:30 am, traversed to the right to the couloir, away from the ridge, climbed the area of overhanging seracs and small rock plateaus, and reached the summit at 3:21 pm. They were back in C4 at 7:19 pm and spent the night there. On the next day, the 27th, they descended to C1 and on the 28th were back in BC. (Weidlich somersaulted five vertical meters enroute to BC, but not injured.)

  Weidlich used oxygen from 7850m (300m above C4) to the summit; Pema used none.

  Sherpa:
    Pema Tshering Sherpa, 16/6/70, Mathilow, Walung, Makalu-Barun, Annapurna X1,
      Dhaulagiri X2, Everest X3, Kangchenjunga X2 (including 2011 with Weidlich),
       Lhotse X1


expid: DHA112110
peakid: DHA1
year: 2012
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Alberto Magliano
sponsor: Italian Dhaulagiri I Expedition
bcdate: 2012-04-04
smtdate: 2012-05-17
smttime: 1730
termdate: 2012-05-20
campsites: BC(04/04,4700m),C1(08/04,5500m),C2(12/04),C3(16/05,7100m),Smt(17/05)
accidents: Frostbite on both feet
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  BC  04 Apr  4700m
  C1  08 Apr  5500m
  C2  12 Apr  6600m
  C3  16 May  7100m
  Smt 17 May  by Panzeri and Corona at 5:30 pm.

  On the first summit attempt on 10 May, they reached C3 at 7100m, but the weather was too bad and they turned around after having set up C3.

  On 17 May they left C3 at 12:30 am. Good weather, but deep snow. At 4 am they stopped at the traverse at 7300m as the wind was too strong, so they stopped and waited for the wind to abate. After one hour the wind stopped and they continued (other climbers, who were with them did not wait and went down). They got to the middle summit and ascended another 50m and reached the summit at 5:30 pm (they saw the German woman in the yellow bag??).

  They spent about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to C3. However, it was getting late and at midnight they made a bivouac at about 7300m - about 2-1/2 hours before C3. It was snowing and foggy. 

  At 4 am Mahdi from Iran stopped on his way up and they had a cup of tea. Team descended to BC at noon.

  Corona has frostbite on both feet and two fingers on right hand.

  The team was climbing with Dawa Sherpa (brother of Seven Summit's Mingma)

  Oxygen: not taken, not used.


expid: DHA112104
peakid: DHA1
year: 2012
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hirotaka Takeuchi
sponsor: Japanese Dhaulagiri 2012
approach: Khumbu (helicopter to BC)
bcdate: 2012-05-04
smtdate: 2012-05-26
smttime: 1730
termdate: 2012-05-30
campsites: BC(04/05,4600m),C1(07/05,5800m),C2(08/05,6600m),C3(25/05,7250m),Smt(26/05)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC  04 May  4600m
  C1  07 May  5800m
  C2  08 May  6600m
  C3  25 May  7250m
  Smt 26 May  by Takeuchi at 5:30 am.

  Takeuchi left C3 at 1:30 am. Weather was perfect and calm. It was very warm. The trail was broken trail to C4. From C4 he had to break trail, however, it was not very deep. He was going slowly due to fatigue. Cleo Weidlich and her Sherpa caught up with him and they alternated breaking trail. He spent about five minutes on the summit due to high winds and the time of day. He descended to C4 (7500m) and as he did not have a tent there, he bivouacked. He got there at about 10 pm.

  On 27 May he descended to BC.

  Nakajima reached 6800m on 24 May. He felt altitude sickness and Hirose made him turn back to C1.

  They left BC on 30 May.

  During their expedition, they found the Yeti airplane, which crashed in 1960. It was at about 5200m near the Dampus Pass.

  Oxygen: not taken, not used.


expid: EVER12141
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Neeraj Rana
sponsor: Himalayan Mountaineering Institute Refresher cum Training to Everest
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2012-04-26
smtdate: 2012-05-25
smttime: 0330
termdate: 2012-05-30
campsites: BC(26/04,5350m),C1(02/05,6000m),C2(03/05,6250m),C3(17/05,7300m),C4(18/05,8000m),Smt(25/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Summit on 25 May by Singh, Sharma, Sherpa, Nayan, Paneru, Sona, Ang Temba, Lhakpa and Mingma Sherpa at 3:30 am, Buthia at 4:05 am.

  First attempt was intended to reach summit on 19 May. Rana, Bhutia, Sherpa, Nayan and Paneru left C4 on 18 May at 7:05 pm. The team reached 8200m, but it was very windy during their ascent and Rana decided to turn back. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 11 pm. On 19 May they descended to C2. The reason why not all of the members joined the first summit attempt was that Rana had split the team. The members who did not try for summit on 18 May were at C2.

  Second summit team left C4 at 7:20 pm on 24 May. Weather was good, but winds picked up at around 11 pm. They spent about 15 minutes on top and started to descend at 4:20 am. When at 7 am Sharma reached the Hillary Step, he was snowblind. Rana was on the radio to Pasang and told him what to do. A little bit later, Temba caught up with them and both Sherpas tried to get Sharma to move, however, to no avail. When Sharma was not moving, they short-roped him to below the South Summit, which took them about six hours. At 1:40 pm they radioed Rana again and him that Sharma wanted to die. Rana talked to him on the radio and tried to motivate him to get up. He also told Temba to give Sharma an injection with Dexamethasone. Sharma slowly got better and his eyesight came back and at about 2:20 pm he started to walk again. Sharma finally arrived at C4 at 7 pm. He has slight frostbite on two fingers.

  The other team members arrived at C4 between 11 am and noon.

  On 26 May everyone was down at C2, and on 27 May at BC.

  Rana was intending to paraglide down from the South Col, but the weather was too bad and he did not do it. However, he carried the parapent up and then down again.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C4 by members.
    C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Sona, Chheskam-2, Solu, 26/11/77, Everest X1, Makalu X1
    Ang Temba, Walung, Makalu-9, 29/5/1979, 1st 8000er
    Lhakpa Sherpa, Walung, Makalu-9, 28/10/82
    Mingma Temba Sherpa, Walung, Makalu-9, 28/4/88


expid: EVER12143
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Umesh Zirpe
sponsor: Giripremi Pune Everest 2012
countries: Nepal
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2012-04-07
smtdate: 2012-05-19
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2012-05-23
campsites: BC(07/04,5350m),C1(19/04,6000m),C2(27/04,6300m),C3(29/04,7400m),C4(18/05),Smt(19/05)
accidents: Dhokale slight frostbitten on toe, Yelange on toe, Adhikari on all 10 toes
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  Summit 19 May by Adikhari 8:45 am, Dhokale 8:45 am, Jalihal 9:30 am, Ketkar 9 am, Khopade 9:30 am, Mane 10 am, Joshi 8:30 am, Yelange 10:30 am, Kami, Pemba, Dakipa, Rinji, Dawa Gyalgen, Dorje, Nurbu Bhote, Dendi, Norbu Sherpa.

  Summit team and Mali and More left C4 between 7 pm and 9 pm on 18 May. Mali and More had problems with their oxygen mask and when they reached the Balcony at 8400m, they decided to turn back at 3:45 am. They returned to C4, where they arrived at 8:30 am. The summit team carried on. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit. On the way down the waiting time at the Hillary Step was about 2 hours. Everyone spent the night at C4, where they arrived between 5:30 pm and 6:30 pm. On 20 May everyone descended to BC.

  Deng reached C2 on 29 April and spent a night there. On the summit attempt he reached C2, but was suffering from chest pain and returned to BC.

  Zirpe reached C2 on 27 April. He stayed there for 2 nights. As his first priority was looking after his team, so he neer really intended to climb.

  Team left BC on 23 May by helicopter to Lukla.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members.
    From C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.


expid: EVER12144
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Indonesia
leaders: Nurhuda
sponsor: Indonesian Seven Summits Expedition to Everest
bcdate: 2012-04-23
smtdate: 2012-05-19
smttime: 0750
termdate: 2012-05-24
campsites: BC(23/04,5200m),ABC(27/04,6400m),C1(08/05,7000m),C2(17/05,7700m),C3(18/05,8300m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Rolwaling Trek
routememo:
  BC  23 Apr  5200m
  ABC 27 Apr  6400m
  C1  08 May  7000m
  C2  17 May  700m	
  C3  18 May  8300m
  Smt 19 May  by Irawan, Nurhuda, Tashi and Lhakpa Gelu at 7:50 am.

  Team left C3 at 11 pm on 18 May. Weather was good, but windy. Summit was very crowded; they stayed about half an hour on the summit.

  They descended to North Col where they arrived at 6 pm. On 20 May descended to ABC and 21 May. They left BC on 24 May.

  Two other Indonesians were part of the expedition. They attempted the South Col route with Mountain Experience. The initial idea was to meet on the summit; however, the south side team did not reach the top.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C1 by all Sherpas and members.

  Sherpas:
    Tashi, Beding, 18/4/1979, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X6
    Lhakpa Gelu, Gorakhani-1, Solu, 31/08/83, Dhaulagiri X1, Manaslu X1


expid: EVER12145
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Phil Crampton
sponsor: Altitude Junkies Everest Expedition 2012
countries: Australia, New Zealand, Russia
bcdate: 2012-04-13
smtdate: 2012-05-19
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2012-05-25
agency: Explore Himalaya
campsites:
  BC(13/04,5200m),BC(14/04,5200m),ABC(22/04,6400m),C1(16/05,7050m),C2(17/05,7800m),C3(18/05,8300m),Smt(19/05)

routememo:
  All seven members left C3 for the top on 18 May at 11:30 pm (NST) with an equal number of Sherpas. But not all reached the summit: Watroba developed a chest infection at 10:00 am on the 19th, and retreated to C3. Cheddar and Nima Nuru went down with her.

  The others, Cartwright, Crampon, Dickson, Horrell, Michanovskaia and Rawlinson, with Ang Gelu, Changba Nurbu, Kami Nuru, Pasang Nima and Pasang Wangchu continued to the summit at various times on 19 May. The first to summit were Crampton and Rawlinson at 7:00 am; the last were Horrell with Changba Nurbu. All descended to C3 between 10:00 am (Rawlinson) and 5:00 pm (Horrell) and Changba Nuru.

  Everyone was in ABC on 20 May.

  Oxygen was used by the members and their Sherpas from 7300m to their high points to C1.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Gelu, 23/7/70, Surke, Chaurikharka-4, Solu, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Changba Nuru, 1964, Everest X8, Cho Oyu X1, Dhaulagiri X1, Manaslu X1
    Chhedar, 19/12/63, Sisuwa-9, Makalu, Everest X5, Manaslu X1
    Kami Nuru, 26/8/85, Chaurikharka, Solu, Everest X1, Manaslu X1
    Nima Nuru, 19/6/67, Chaplung, Chaurikharka-3, Solu, Everest X3
    Pasang Nima, 28/1/74, Chaurikharka, Solu, Everest X1
    Pasang Wangchu, 22/4/87, Cheremy, Bung-9, Solu, Everest X2, Manaslu X1


  From Mark Horrell's web site (www.markhorrell.com):

  In all 11 members of the Altitude Junkies team reached the summit between 6.30am and 10am.

    Phil Crampton (UK/US), expedition leader
    Grant Rawlinson (NZ) and Pasang Nima Sherpa (Nepal)
    Mila Mikhanovskaya (Rus) and Pasang Wongchu Sherpa (Nepal)
    Mark Dickson (UK) and Ang Gelu Sherpa (Nepal)
    Ian Cartwright (UK) and Kami Sherpa (Nepal)
    Mark Horrell (UK) and Chongba Sherpa (Nepal)


expid: EVER12146
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Chile
leaders: Eugenio Guzman
sponsor: Chilean 2012 Mt. Everest Expedition
countries: Mexico
bcdate: 2012-04-03
smtdate: 2012-05-18
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2012-05-23
campsites: BC(03/04,5350m),C1(12/04,6100m),C2(26/04,6500m),C3(15/05,7300m),C4(17/05,7900m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  The summit party of 10 members and eight Sherpas left C4 for the summit at 11:30 pm on 17 May and were on the top at 1:30 pm on 18 May. Their ascent took a long time because they were fixing rope above the Balcony (8500m). They returned to C4 at 8:30 pm.

  The successful members were Becker, Grandy, Guzman, Irarrazaval, Jordan, Olea, Olivares, Juan and Sebastian Varela, and Vidal. The Sherpas who summited were Fur Kancha, Fura Jangbu, Furba Chotter, Lhaka Sonam, Mingma Nuru, Mingma Tenzing, Pasang Tendi and Tsering Dorje.

  The summiters were back in C2 on the 19th and BC on the 20th.

  Summiting members used oxygen from C3 to the top to C4; Sherpas used it from C4 to top to C4.

  Non-summiting members:

  Diaz reached C2 on 26 April and 14 May, but a mild chest infection prevented him from going to the summit.

  Martinez, the only Mexican member, reached C4 with the summit party, but was now too tired to continue to the top. He waited in C4 for the summiters to return.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Sonam, 7/4/82 (25/12/2038), Kharikhola
    Mingma Nuru, 30/12/74 (15/9/2031), Thami
    Mingma Tenzing, 3/10/67 (17/6/2024), Pare, Namche-6, Khumbu, Everest X1
    Pasang Tendi, 30/7/89 (15/4/2046), Yilajung, Khumbu, Kang X1
    Phura Kancha, 17/1/77 (4/10/2033), Thami, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X2
    Phura Jangbu, 16/4/82 (3/1/2039), Phurte, Namche-5, Khumbu, Everest X1
    Phurba Chhoter, 20/8/71 (4/5/2028), Yilajung, Khumbu, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X1
    Tshering Dorje, 20/7/70 (5/4/2027), Kharikhola, Everest X13, Cho Oyu X5


  Note from IMG web site:

  8 Sherpas summited on 18 May as part of a joint expedition rope-fixing team:
    Ang Kazi (Chitre) - USA (North Face, Conrad Anker)
    Jyamchang Bhote (Hungung) - India (Ajay Kothiyal)
    Kami Rita (Thami) - USA (AAI, Garrett Madison)
    Phura Kancha (Thami) - Chile (Eugenio Guzman)
    Karma Gyalzen (Phortse) - USA (IMG, Mike Hamill)
    Phu Tashi (Phortse) - Canada (Peak Freaks, Tim Rippel)
    Palden Namgyal (Phortse) - Canada (Peak Freaks, Tim Rippel)
    Nima Dorje - (Seven Summit Treks)


expid: EVER12147
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Shriya Shah
sponsor: Canadian on Everest
countries: Nepal
approach: By bus to Jiri and trekked from Jiri
bcdate: 2012-04-14
smtdate: 2012-05-19
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2012-05-24
campsites: BC(14/04,5300m),C1(19/04,6000m),C2(23/04,6500m),C3(17/05,7100m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(19/05)
accidents: Shah's fatal collapse
agency: Utmost Adventure
routememo:
  The expedition personnel consisted of Mrs Shriya Shah, two Sherpas, Dawa Dendi and Temba, and Ganesh Thakuri, the head of her Kathmandu trekking agency, himself a climber, who was a paid participant in this group.

  After C2 was established on 23 April, the weather turned bad, and Mrs Shah and her Sherpas went down to Dingboche village to rest and await better weather.

  In mid-May, they were able to make their bid for the summit. They started up from BC on the 15th and reached C2, where they spent two nights. On the 17th, they established C3 and made C4 at the South Col on the 18th.

  At 7:00 pm of the 18th, Mrs Shah and two Sherpas left C4 for the top. Mrs Shah had consistently been a slow climber, and there was a heavy traffic on the route that day, further slowing her progress. It was not until 2:30 pm in 19 May that Mrs Shah, Dawa Dendi and Temba reached the summit.

  Meanwhile, Ganesh Thakuri had left C4 at 9:30 pm on the 18th and was on the top at 11:00 am on the 19th. He returned to C4 at 7:00 pm, have been held up for two hours at the Hillary Step in his descent.

  Mrs Shah managed to get down to about 8450m, a little below the Balcony, at 10:45 am, but there she collapsed. When they had descended to the South Summit, she was seriously exhausted; her Sherpas, despite the wind that had blown up, had managed to get her lower by short-roping her and supporting her. But she couldn't move any more just below the Balcony, collapsed and died immediately. Her body was brought to Kathmandu on the 28th and cremated there in the presence of her husband, Bruce Klorfine, and other relatives. (She was born in Kathmandu and stayed with relatives when she came to Kathmandu for her climb).

  Oxygen was used by Mrs Shah from C2 to the summit to her death. Thakuri use it from about 7500m to the top to 7500m. Temba used it from 7700m to the summit to C4; the other Sherpa, Dawa Dendi, used it from C4 to the top to C4.

  The survivors spent the night of the 19th at C4, were in C2 on the 20th and the next day reached BC. 

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Dendi, 14/4/77 (2/1/2024), Gudel-4, no 8000ers
    Temba Bhote, 19/3/82 (6/12/2038), Takhola, Sankhuwasabha, no 8000ers

  Trekking Agent:
    Ganesh Thakuri, 5/8/82, Thulopakhar-7, Sindhupalchowk, no 8000ers


expid: EVER12148
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Iran
leaders: Parvaneh Kazemi
sponsor: First Iranian Independent Women's Everest & Lhotse Expedition
bcdate: 2012-04-05
smtdate: 2012-05-18
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2012-05-28
othersmts: Climbed Lhotse on 25th May at 7:00 am (LHOT-121-22)
campsites: BC(05/04,5300m),C1(09/04,6100m),C2(18/04,6400m),C3(28/04,7200m),C4(17/05,7900m),Smt(18/05)
achievment: 1st Iranian woman to summit both Everest and Lhotse in the same season
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Ms. Kazemi and Nima Gyalzen left C4 for Everest's summit at 1:00 am on 18 May. They followed behind the rope fixers from American expedition to the top.

  They returned to Everest C4 on the South Col for that night and next day, the 19th, they moved to C4 at 7800m on Lhotse's West Face. The weather changed that night, it was windy and snow fell all night, so on the 20th they descended to C2 in the Western Cwm and stayed there until the 24th, when they returned to their Lhotse C4 at 7800m.

  On 25 May, they left C4 at 1:00 am and reached Lhotse's summit at 7:00 am after Indians fixed rope to the top. The weather was clear with only a light wind.

  But Lhotse was very dangerous from frequent rockfall. On her way to the summit, at 5:30 am, Ms Parvaneh was hit on the cheek by a small rock that was falling fast and caused her cheek to bleed, but nevertheless she managed to summit and descend to C2 at 1:30 pm.

  She was back in BC on the 26th, left BC on the 28th, and was stuck at Lukla for three days before she could get a plane seat to return to Kathmandu on 2 June.

  Ms. Kazemi is the first Iranian woman to summit both Everest and Lhotse in the same season, and indeed the same week.

  Sherpa:
    Nima Gyalzen Sherpa, 9/8/85, Beding, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X2, Manaslu X3


expid: EVER12149
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: SummitClimb Everest Expedition 2012
countries: Australia, France, Switzerland
approach: By road from Ktm to BC
bcdate: 2012-03-14
smtdate: 2012-04-14
smttime: 0435
termdate: 2012-05-20
campsites: BC(14/04,5230m),ABC(21/04,6400m),C1(27/04,7050m),C2(18/05,7600m),C3(25/05,8300m),Smt(20,26-27/05)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  First to summit from this expedition were Puyo and Jangbu. Puyo wanted to go up while everyone else was going down from C2 to ABC in the face of strong wind, low clouds and snowfall. He and Jangbu just "took off" (as Mazur put it) from C2 to C3 on the 19th and on 20th May went on to the top and down to C1. They left C3 on 19th May at 11:30 pm (Chinese time), summited at 6:50 am (4:35 am NST) on 20 May. Puyo said they were the second party to reach the top that day, following two Sherpas from another expedition. They descended all the way to C1 at 5:00 pm.

  The main summit party consisted of Lim, Mazur, Smith and Valloton with Sherpas Gyalzen, Pasang Nurbu and Tenji. They climbed from the north side in the ideal conditions that prevailed from 25 to 30 May, Mazur reported: "no wind, no clouds, warm temperatures and no people."

  Valloton was the first to set out for the top from C3. She left at 10:00 pm on the 25th alone (she didn't want a Sherpa with her), but got too cold and turned back to C3 at 1:30 am on the 26th. She again left the top at about 10:00 am but again turned around at 2 pm because she was too cold and was unable to attach the fresh oxygen bottle that had been left for her at 8600m. She gave up and descended to C1.

  Lim and Pasang Nurbu left C3 at 11:30 pm on the 25th, summited at 1:00 pm (10:45 am NST) on 26 May and went back in C3.

  Smith climbed up to C3 on the 25th, but rested there during the day of the 26th and, with Tenji and Gyalzen, set out for the top at 6:00 pm. They arrived at the summit at 6:30 am (4:15 am NST) on 27 May and returned to C3.

  Smith was very tired: he descended one camp per day. The other summiters had gone down from C3 to C1 and to ABC one day apart.

  Mazur decided to remain in C3 and made no bid for the top.

  Oxygen was used by the summiters as follows: Lim, Puyo and Smith from C2 to summit to C1; Valloton and the Sherpas from C2 to top to C2.

  The team's only health problem was the frostbite Lim got on the middle finger of his left hand.

  Sherpas:
    Gyalzen, 25/1/74, Patle-4, Okhaldhunga, Everest X2
    Jangbu, 22/2/81, Kharikhola, Solu, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X1
    Pasang Norbu/Nurbu, 21/12/72, Nurbugaon, Walung, Makalu-9, Everest X4, 
      Lhotse X1, Kangch X1, Manaslu X1
    Tenji, 1/6/82, Patle, Okhaldhunga, Everest X6


expid: EVER12150
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Iran
leaders: Reza Shahlaee
sponsor: Iranians to Everest
bcdate: 2012-04-11
smtdate: 2012-05-19
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2012-05-22
campsites: BC(11/04,5350m),C2(15/04,6400m),C3(19/04,7050m),C4(18/05,8000m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Summit on 19 May by Shahlaee and Tshering Tashi at 1:30 pm.

  Shahlaee, Tshering Tashi, Mardanpour and Pemba Dorje left C4 at midnight. At about 3 am at the Hillary Step Shahlaei and Tshering Tashi waited for about two hours for Mardanpour and Pemba Dorje, but they never showed up. They carried on to the summit, where they met the Canadian-Nepali girl, who died later on her descent. She seemed Ok. They spent about 45 minutes on the summit with good views. They descended to C4 where they arrived at 6 pm. Mardanpour had already left C4 when they got there.

  Following day they descended to C2 and on 21 May to BC. Shahlaee did not see or hear from Mardanpour on mountain and had no idea where he had gone. When he reached BC on 21 May, Mardanpour had already left.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top or high point by members.
    From C4 to top or high point by Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Tshering Tashi, Khumjung, Khumbu, 7/12/1985, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1
    Pemba Dorje, Kharikhola, Solu, 1/8/1970, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1


expid: EVER12151
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Israel
leaders: Nadav Ben Yehuda
sponsor: New Israeli Everest Expedition
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2012-04-18
smtdate: 2012-05-19
termdate: 2012-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 8400m due to rescue of Irmak
campsites: BC(18/04,5350m),C1(24/04,6100m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(30/04,7100m),C4(18/05,7950m),xxx(19/05,8400m)
accidents: Frostbite on right hand, 4 fingers.
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  High Point 19 May at 8400m by Yehuda, Pemba Jangbu at 11:45 am.

  Ben Yehuda left C4 at 8 pm on 19 May. They were the first people to leave. It was very windy. When they got to the Balcony at 11 pm they found Muharrem from Turkey lying there. He started talking to him and he knew that he would not summit as he had to help his friend down. The Canadian-Nepali girl was lying next to him, dead. He clipped him into his harness and Pemba put him on a short rope and they dragged him down to C4, where they arrived at 6 am. They rested their for 4 hours and went down to C2, arrived at 6 pm.

  They were rescued after Ben Yehuda called his insurance company in Israel from 6700m; they were heli-rescued by Simone Moro from C2 on 21 May and were flown straight to Kathmandu via, Pheriche and Lukla.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used by Ben Yehuda from 7700m to high point, then he ran out.
    Taken and used by Sherpa from C4 to high point

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Jangbu, Bupsa, Jubing, Solu, 16/2/1986, Everest X1, Manaslu X1


expid: EVER12152
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiroyuki Kuraoka
sponsor: Mountain Experience Everest Expedition 2012
countries: Indonesia
bcdate: 2012-04-13
smtdate: 2012-05-19
termdate: 2012-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 7980m due to bad weather and lost time helping others
campsites: BC(13/04,5350m),C1(02/05,6100m),C2(03/05,6450m),C3(07/05,7200m),C4(19/05,7980m),xxx(19/05,7980m)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  The team pitched BC on 13 April, then went to Lobuche East to acclimatize. On 22 April they climbed to its fore-summit, then returned to Everest BC.

  This group became friendly with a Chinese expedition and shared a dining and kitchen tent at C2 with them.

  When their Sherpas went up to C3 on the W Face of Lhotse on 17 May, Kami Tenzing was hit by falling ice. He was evacuated from C2 by helicopter the next day.

  After the team three remaining members arrived at C4 on 19 May, at 8:00 pm they sent two of their Sherpas to locate a lost Chinese climber, who died below the Balcony.

  The next day, the 20th, instead of summiting Everest, they cancelled their climb. It was now very windy. They no longer had enough oxygen for a summit bid; when they had returned to C3 on their way for a summit attempt, they found that two tents had been destroyed by strong wind, and some oxygen bottles were lost. (Some members slept at C3 in a Chinese tent). Their remaining Sherpas were too tired.

  Members and Sherpas used oxygen from C2 to C4 and down to C2 on 19-20 May.

  Non-summit-team members:

  Hanaoka reached 6700m on 5 May; was very slow and was probably suffering from altitude sickness. Left the team on 6 May.

  Yaftebbi got to C3 on 7 May, then turned back with a throat infection.

  Sherpas:
    Kami Tenzing, Khumjung, 1991


expid: EVER12155
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Tateo Yamashita
sponsor: Tamashita Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2012-04-25
smtdate: 2012-05-19
termdate: 2012-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 8650m due to Yamashita's fatigue
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak on 9 April
campsites: BC(25/04,5300m),C1(16/05,6400m),C3(17/05,7100m),C4(18/05,7900m),xxx(19/05,8650m)
agency: Rolwaling Trek
routememo:
  C4 at South Col
  High point at 8650m at bottom of Hillary Step.

  Yamashita had already summited Everest from the Tibetan side in previous years. Now he wanted to climb from the Nepalese side.

  In his bid for the summit, he left C4 for the top at 9:00 pm on 18 May. With him were two Sherpas, Pasang Kitar and Bir Kaji Tamang, but Pasang Kitar was getting frostbite when he reached the Balcony (8400m) the next morning, and he turned around there.

  Yamashita and Bir Kaji continued their ascent in very windy and very cold weather. However, when they arrived at the bottom of the Hillary Step (8650m) at 10am that morning, the 19th of May, Yamashita was very tired and he gave up. He and Bir Kaji retreated to C4, where they arrived at 2:00 pm.

  They descended to C2 the next day and on the 21st were back in BC. The team left BC on the 23rd to return to Kathmandu.

  During his summit push, Yamashita used oxygen in C3 to his high point to and in in C4 and down to 6500m. The two Sherpas used it in C4 to their high points to but not in C4 in descent.

  Sherpas:
    Bir Kaji Tamang, 10/12/78, Gorakhani-4, Solu, Everest X1
    Pasang Kitar, 25/2/79, Beding, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X3


expid: EVER12156
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Oh Young-Hoon
sponsor: Seoul National University Everest Expedition (CALS Alpine Club)
bcdate: 2012-04-13
smtdate: 2012-05-19
smttime: 0300
termdate: 2012-05-22
othersmts: Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-121-05)
campsites: BC(13/04,5350m),C1(16/04,6100m),C2(24/04,6500m),C3(28/04,7200m),C4(18/05,8000m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Summit on 19 May by Oh and Ngaa Tenzi at 3 am.

  Oh, Nga Tenzi, Seo and Nurbu Sherpa left C4 at 7:45 pm on 18 May. They were the first to leave on that morning. It was clear and calm. Oh and Nga Tenzi were faster so they went ahead and reached the summit. They did not know what time it was, but it was still dark, so they descended about 20 km and waited for the sun to rise. At 4:30 am they climbed back to the summit and stayed for about 10 minutes.

  On their descent they met Seo and Nurbu at 8600m at 8 am. After Nga Tenzi told them it would be too late to go up to the summit, Seo and Nurbu turned back and reached C4 at about 11 am, rested for 1 hour and descended to C3, where they arrived at about 7:30 pm.

  Oh and Nga Tenzi reached C4 at 10 am, slept for two hours and reached C2 at 6 pm.

  On 20 May Seo and Nurbu descended to C3 where Oh and Nga Tenzi were waiting for them. On 21 May everybody descended to BC.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used by Nga Tenji and Oh from C3 to top to 7600m.
    Seo and Nurbu from C3 to high point to C3.

  Sherpas:
    Nurbu Sherpa, Nurbugaon, Makalu-Barun, 10/12/1984, Everest X1, Kang X1, Lhotse X2
    Nga Tenji, 28/2/1980, Nurbugaon, Makalu-Barun, Everest X5, Manaslu X1


expid: EVER12157
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Malaysia
leaders: Azlan Jumaan
sponsor: Malaysian Everest 2012
approach: Pangboche->Island Peak
bcdate: 2012-04-10
smtdate: 2012-05-20
termdate: 2012-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 8600m due to loss of motivation
campsites: BC(10/04,5350m),C1(22/04,6100m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3(18/05,7300m),C4(19/05,8000m),xxx(20/05,8600m)
agency: Himalayan Treasure
routememo:
  High Point on 20 May at 8600m by Jumaan, Da Nurbu and Nga Temba at 4:30 am.

  On 10 May high point team left C4 at 9:30 pm. It was very crowded and progress was slow. They had to wait for about 30 minutes on Hillary Step. When they got to 8600m the wind picked up and clouds came in. They saw many climbers turn back near the summit and the thought of the dead people further up made Jumaan decide to turn back. They arrived at C4 at about 7:30 am, rested there for two hours and carried on to C2, where they arrived at 6 pm. On 21 May they descended to BC and left BC 22 May.

  Sheik reached BC, but was not feeling well; he stayed at BC for the whole expedition.

  Yuhanis reached C1 and stayed the night on 22 April; he did not feel well, probably altitude sickness and stayed at BC for the rest of the expedition.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Jumaan and Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Nga Temba, Kharikhola, Solu, 1950, Everest X3, Kangch X1, Manaslu X1
    Dawa Nurbu, Kharikhola, Solu, 22/11/1976, Everest X7


expid: EVER12158
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Mongolia
leaders: Ganbaatar Begzsuren
sponsor: Mongol Everest Expedition 2012
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2012-04-09
smtdate: 2012-05-19
smttime: 0850
termdate: 2012-05-23
campsites: BC(09/04,5350m),C1(19/04,6000m),C2(20/04,6400m),C3(04/05,7300m),C4(18/05,8000m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Himalayan Human Adventure
routememo:
  Summit on 19 May by Bazazkhand and Dawa Gyalgen at 11 am, Luvsandorj and Nima Gyalgen at 8:50 am, Tseren, Mingma Nuru and Nima Nuru at 10 am.

  Summit team left C4 together with Nima Gombu, Lahti and Richard at 9 pm on 18 May. It was very busy; about two hours wait at the Hillary Step. They spent an average of about 20 min on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived between 2 pm and 4 pm.

  Begzsuren reached just below C4 at about 7900m on 18 May; he was too exhausted to carry on and turned back to C3.

  Baymbnajav reached around 7500m on 18 May (just above C3); he did not carry on due to fatigue.

  On 20 May they descended to C2 and on 21 May to BC. They walked to Lukla and arrived in Kathmandu on 27 May.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top or high point to C3 by members.
    From C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Gyalzen, Beding, Dolakha, 10/5/86, Everst X3, Cho Oyu X1
    Mingma Nuru (aka Ang Nuru), Namche, Khumbu, 3/8/84, Everest Spring 2011 with
      Manabu Hirose from Japan
    Nima Gyalzen, Beding, Dolakha, 18/5/76, Everest X8, Cho Oyu X4
    Nima Nuru/Norbu, 20 February 1980, Thamiteng, Khumbu


expid: EVER12159
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Toolika Rani
sponsor: Rani on Everest
approach: Lukla->Namche->Debuche->Dingboche->Lobuche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2012-04-18
smtdate: 2012-05-19
smttime: 0725
termdate: 2012-05-28
campsites: BC(18/04,5334m),C1(25/04,5791m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(24/05,7010m),C4(25/05,7925m),Smt(26/05)
accidents: Rani little bit frostbite on toe, both legs
agency: Rimo Expeditions
routememo:
  Rani and her two climbing Sherpas Pimba and Pekma left C4 at 8 pm on 25 May. They got to the top at 7:25 am on 26 May and stayed on summit for 35 minutes, then descended to C4 where they arrived at 1 pm. They spent night there. Next day 27 May went down to BC.

  Sherpas:
    Pimba Tenjing Lama, 10/12/1986, Hatiya-3, Sankhuwasabha  
    Pekma Lama Bhote, (30/08/2033), Hungung, Hatiya-3, Sankhuwasabha


expid: EVER12160
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
route2: W Ridge (to 6800m)
nation: USA
leaders: Courtney Richards
sponsor: North Face Everest Expedition 2012
bcdate: 2012-04-01
smtdate: 2012-05-18
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2012-05-28
othersmts: Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-121-21)
campsites: BC(01/04,5250m),C1(04/04,6100m),C2(16/04,6400m),C3(13/05,7150m),C4(24/05,7800m),Smt(18,25-26/05)
accidents: Richard's illness
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse W Face
  C4 at South Col.

  The plan was to climb the 1963 West Ridge route as well as the normal South Col route and for all to descend via the Col. But climbing the West Ridge had to be abandonded after Anker got to 6800m below the ridge. They found that the Hornbein Couloir, which they were supposed to scale, was covered in blue ice, after falling rocks were funnelling down the couloir.

  After cancelling any West Ridge effort, the team concentrated on scaling the South Col route. For this climb, their C1 at the top of the Icefall and C2 in the Western Cwm were already in place. Now C3 had to be pitched on the West Face of Lhotse, which was shedding rocks and seracs, and some of these ahd alread fallen on tents of one team and broken a Sherpa's leg. This team was careful to put their camp in a safe place not threatened by falling items, and they were not hit.

  The majority of members and Sherpas went for the top on the 25th, but Ang Kazi had already summited on the 18th while rope fixing and Anker, who reached C4 with the main summit party, stayed there without oxygen for an extra day to climb when the route would not be so crowded.

  The main party's members were Elias, Erickson, Harrington, Jenkins, O'Neill, with Sherpas with Danuru, Ms. Dawa Yangzum, Jangbu, Lhakpa Bhote, Mingmar, Panuru, Sonam Dorje and Tendi. They left C4 at 9:00 pm on the 24th and were at the summit at 4:00 am on 25 May. All of them descended to C2 the next day except for Erickson and O'Neill, who stopped in C4 on the 25th and went directly to the summit of Lhotse the following day, then down to C2.

  Anker left C4 for the summit at 12:40 pm on the 25th and was on the top at 10:05 am on the 26th after having spent an hour at the Balcony (8400m) watching the sunrise with its dramatic changes of vivid colors. He used no oxygen on this climb, and without the protection of oxygen equipment, his lungs were torn by the very cold air at these great heights.

  Elias, Harrington and Jenkins started using oxygen at 7400m, while the other Everest summit-party members started on it in C4 at the South Col; they used it to the top and back to C4 or wherever it ran out.

  On Lhotse, Erickson and O'Neill went directly from Everest C4 at the South Col to Lhotse's C4 at about 7800m (below the couloir) on the 25th, slept there that night and summited Lhotse early in the next morning (26 May). No Sherpas accompanied them.

  They used oxygen from the South Col to the summit of Lhotse and down to C2. (They had already been using it on Everest in C4 to the top of Everest and back to C4).

  Non-summiting Everest members:

  Bardon went once to C2, but stayed most of the time at BC as BC manager.

  Henderson reached C2 on 25 April, then ran out of steam and motivation.

  Richards, the team's original leader, climbed to 6800m on 28 April onto the W Ridge, then developed a serious lung problem and left Nepal.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Kazi Sherpa, 11/5/78 (28/1/2035), Chitre-9, Sankhuwasabha, Everest X4, 
      Manaslu X1
    Danuru Sherpa, 26/10/78 (9/2/2035), Phortse, Khumbu, Everest X12, Cho Oyu X8, 
      Manaslu X1
    Ms. Dawa Yangzum Sherpa, 28/9/90 (12/6/2047), Beding, no 8000ers
    Jangbu Sherpa, 20/7/87 (4/4/2044), Sisuwakhola-9, Sankhuwasabha, Everest X1
    Lhakpa Bhote, 5/11/1970 (20/7/2027), Hariya-3, Sankhuwasabha, Everest X3
    Mingmar Sherpa, 24/11/89 (9/8/2046), Taksindu-4, Solu
    Panuru Sherpa, 22/5/68 (9/2/2025), Phortse, Khumbu, Everest X9, Cho Oyu X4
    Tendi Sherpa, 20/6/84 (7/3/2041), Jubing-7, Solu
    Sonam Dorje Sherpa, 14/4/88 (2/1/2045), Phortse, Khumbu


  Note from IMG web site:

  8 Sherpas summited on 18 May as part of a joint expedition rope-fixing team:
    Ang Kazi (Chitre) - USA (North Face, Conrad Anker)
    Jyamchang Bhote (Hungung) - India (Ajay Kothiyal)
    Kami Rita (Thami) - USA (AAI, Garrett Madison)
    Phura Kancha (Thami) - Chile (Eugenio Guzman)
    Karma Gyalzen (Phortse) - USA (IMG, Mike Hamill)
    Phu Tashi (Phortse) - Canada (Peak Freaks, Tim Rippel)
    Palden Namgyal (Phortse) - Canada (Peak Freaks, Tim Rippel)
    Nima Dorje - (Seven Summit Treks)


expid: EVER12162
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Ralf Dujmovits
sponsor: Germans to Everest
bcdate: 2012-04-19
smtdate: 2012-05-19
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2012-05-21
campsites: BC(19/04,5250m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(27/04,7100m),C4(27/04,7900m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Summit on 19 May Stihler, Pasang Nuru at 10 am.

  Dujmovits had summited Everest in October in 1992 with oxygen. Now, nearly twenty years later, he wanted to climb it without oxygen.

  First, he went to Lobuche East to acclimatize with Mrs. Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and Richard (Richie) Stihler; he was a member of the same Nuptse team as they were. (Its leader was Mrs. Kaltenbrunner). Then he went with them to the north side of Nuptse, planning to make a new route via its East Ridge. But when they looked at their proposed route onto the ridge, they saw dangerous rock fall, and they abandoned the idea of climbing the ridge. Kaltenbrunner and Stihler decided to switch to the mountain's North Pillar, but since he had scaled the pillar in 1996, Dujmovits left Nuptse and turned his attention to Everest.

  Dujmovits returned to BC (it was their base for Nuptse also) and went alone to Everest's C3 on 27th April and back to BC on the 28th. The three climbers, Dujmovits, Stihler and Pasang Nuru Sherpa, went together to C3 (7100m) on 10 May, and on the 11th, while Stihler and  Pasang Nuru went down to BC, Dujmovits continued up to the Yellow Band at 7600m before he descended to BC that day.

  The three-man team started their summit push from BC on the 15th and went up to C2. On the 16th, Dujmovits went on up to C3 while Stihler and Pasang Nuru stayed in C2. The next day Dujmovits climbed to C4 at the South Col and the others moved up to C3.

  Dujmovits had planned to go for the top from C4 at midnight of 17/18 May with the Swiss climber Ueli Steck, but Steck didn't attempt Everest. In any case, Dujmovits did not feel strong enough to climb higher than C4 without oxygen, so instead he descended to C2. At C2 he met Mrs. Kaltenbrunner and Goettler, who had come down from their ascent of Nuptse, and they went down to BC together.

  Meanwhile, on the 18th Stihler and Pasang Nuru moved up to C4, and at 8:30 pm they left C4 for the summit. They reached the summit at 10:00 am on 19 May. Stihler descended to C3, but Pasang Nuru went only to C4 to look after a French woman, Nathalie Lamoureux.

  Oxygen was used by Stihler from C4 to the summit to C4 and by Pasang Nuru from C3 to the top to C3. Dujmovits used none.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Nuru, 17/5/74, Bupsa-4, Jubing, Solu, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X1, Makalu X1


  Report from Billi Bierling:

  Summit team left C4 at 9 pm on 18 May. On the way up, they waited at the Hillary Step for about 1-1/2 hours. They spent about half hour on summit. On the way down they were stuck at the Hillary Step for 2 hours. They descended to C3, where Stihler arrived at 6:30 pm and Pasang, who was looking after Nathalie Lamoureux, at 1:30 am.

  Following day Stihler descended to BC and Pasang and Nathalie to C2.

  He left BC on 22 May and walked to Lukla.


expid: EVER12163
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Mongolia
leaders: Bat-Erdene Sereeter
sponsor: Zambu Everest Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2012-04-15
smtdate: 2012-05-19
smttime: 0456
termdate: 2012-05-22
campsites: BC(15/04,5100m),ABC(23/04,6400m),C1(29/04,7000m),C2(17/05,7700m),C3(18/05,8300m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Cultural Treks
routememo:
  Sereeter and Lhakpa Bhote started their summit push from C3 at 10 pm (CST) on 18 May and they got to the top at 7:11 am (4:56 am NST) on 19 May. They stayed on summit for 30 minutes, then went down to C3 at 4 pm and spent night there. Next day 20 May descended to ABC and following day 21 May to CBC.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Sherpa, 15/11/1983, Hatiya-2, Makalu, Everest 2011


expid: EVER12164
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Norway
leaders: Arvid Lahti
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2012-03-28
smtdate: 2012-05-19
smttime: 0908
termdate: 2012-05-23
campsites: BC(28/03,5350m),C1(15/04,6000m),C2(18/04,6400m),C3(20/04,7300m),C4(18/05,8000m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Nima Gombu Sherpa
routememo:
  Summit on 19 May by Lahti, Pemba Nuru at 9:08 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 9 pm on 18 May. It was very busy, about half an hour wait at the Hillary Step. They spent about haldf an hour on the summit. There were about 15 other people there.

  They descended to C4, where they arrived at 4 pm. On 20 May they descended to C2 and on 21 May to BC. They left BC on 23 May.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Lahti.
    Taken and used from C4 to top to C4 by Pemba Nuru.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Nuru, Thamiteng, Khumbu, 17/1/1977


expid: EVER12165
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Arnold Coster
sponsor: SummitClimb Everest Expedition 2012
countries: Australia, Canada, Switzerland, UK, USA
bcdate: 2012-04-17
smtdate: 2012-05-26
smttime: 0330
termdate: 2012-05-23
othersmts: Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-121-16)
campsites: BC(17/04,5300m),C1(224/04,6030m),C2(29/04,6400m),C3(04/05,7100m),C4(19/05,7900m),Smt(26/05)
accidents: Neefjes frostbite and Lhakpa Nuru's broken jaw from falling rock
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  The first summit bid was launched from C4 on 19 May, the day C4 was first occupied. Nine members (all members except Neefjes, who had left the team) set out from C4 at 7:30 pm, but turned back from various altitudes because of the bad weather.

  Four of the members tried again: Camkin, Kedrowski, Leduc and Maybank, with Sherpas Ang Pasang, Chhewang Karma, Jangbu and Lhakpa Gelu left C4 for the top at 7:30 pm on the 25th. All of them reached the summit morning: Kedrowski and Jangbu summited on 26 May at 3:30 am, while the rest of the party were on the top at 5:30 am.

  Camkin descended to C3 only and arrived there at 6:00 pm, but Jangbu continued down to C2, and all the other summiters also went to C2 that afternoon between 1:00 pm (Kedrowski) and 4:00 pm (Leduc). All were back in BC on the 27th.

  Non-summiting members:

  Arnold reached the Balcony (8500m) on 20 May, then the weather became "terrible" and he got involved in rescue work. 

  Coster summited Lhotse instead.

  Jaeggi got to 8600m on 20 May, then retreated because of the bad weather.

  Jones summited Lhotse instead.

  Neefjes left team on 29 April after three fingers were badly frostbitten in C2.

  Van Hassel reached 8400m on 20 May before bad weather drove him back.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Pasang, 15/6/84, Patle-4, Okhaldhunga, Everest X1
    Chhewang Karma, 28/1/89, Patle, Okhaldhunga, no 8000ers
    Jangbu, 24/5/67, Patle, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X4, Lhotse X1
    Lhakpa Gelu/Gelbu, 13/4/77, Thumduk, Beni-4, Solu, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X2,
      Lhotse X1


expid: EVER12167
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Tim Rippel
sponsor: Peak Freaks Everest Expedition 2012
countries: Australia, Cyprus, Ecuador, New Zealand, Norway, S Africa, Sweden, USA
bcdate: 2012-04-08
smtdate: 2012-05-18
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2012-05-23
campsites: BC(08/04,5350m),C1(17/04,5900m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(17/05,7100m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(18-19,25/05)
agency: Senge Treks & Expeditions
routememo:
  Palden Namgye and Phu Tashi fixed rope to the summit on 18 May.

  The first summit party left C4 at 11:00 pm on the 18th and summited only the next afternoon, the 19th. They were Andreou, Breitfuss and Schmidt with Sherpas Tashi Thundu, Sange Phuru, Chhiring Namgel and Redar Lama Bhote. They got to the top at 2:00 pm, having had to wait at the Hillary Step for three hours for descending climbers to leave the Step. They returned to C4 at 7:00 pm, went down to C2 the next day and were back in BC on the day after that, the 21st.

  The second summit party left C4 at 6:30 pm on the 24th of May to avoid traffic jams. These memebrs were Cameron, Darlington, Hughes, Jarrin, Neil and Stephen; their Sherpas were Jangbu, Mingmar, Ngima Tshering, Pasang Tshering and Tashi Thundu, plus Palden Namgye and Phu Tashi for the second time from C4. Neil turned around at about 3:30 am of the 25th at the bottom of the Hillary Step because of an eye problem and Jangbu accompanied him down.

  The remaining members of the party summited at 5:15 am on 25 May. They all were back in C4 at 11:00 am; in C2 twelve hours later, at 11:00 pm, and in BC on the 26th.

  Non-summiting members:

  Faye-Schjoll had stomach trouble, never went above BC, left team on 11 April.

  Hakansson got to C3 on 17 May but left next day: he was tired, fell into a crevasse 20m above C3 and now had had enough.

  Mahoney reached C2 on 24 April but lost her stamina and left team on 1 May.

  McPhee got only as high as 6300m on 26 April, couldn't acclimatize, left team on 1 May.

  Rippel as BC manager stayed in BC.

  Wright climbed to 6500m on 17 May, but had a very bad cough and left team on the 18th.

  Oxygen was used by all memebrs from C3 to high point to between C4 and C3, except Schmidt, who used it only from 8200m to top to C4. Sherpas used it from C4 to high point to C4.

  Sherpas:
    Chhiring Namgel Sherpa, 22/8/91, Pangboche
    Jangbu Sherpa, 18/6/65, Bakachol-9, Khotang, Everest X5
    Mingmar Sherpa, 22/7/70, Damar, Jantarkhani-9, Okhaldhunga, Everest X1
    Ngima Tshering Sherpa, 7/3/85, Khunde
    Palden Namgye Sherpa, 20/9/72, Phortse, Everest X5, Lhotse X4, etc
    Pasang Tshering Sherpa, 14/1/91, Khunde
    Phu Tashi Sherpa, 23/10/77, Phortse, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1
    Redar Lama Bhote, 19/11/86, Hatiya-3, Sankhuwasabha, Everest X2
    Sange Phuru Sherpa, 22/8/86 (6/5/2043), Bakachol-9, Khotang
    Tashi Thundu Sherpa, 10/4/85, Khumjung, Everest X6


  Note from IMG web site:

  8 Sherpas summited on 18 May as part of a joint expedition rope-fixing team:
    Ang Kazi (Chitre) - USA (North Face, Conrad Anker)
    Jyamchang Bhote (Hungung) - India (Ajay Kothiyal)
    Kami Rita (Thami) - USA (AAI, Garrett Madison)
    Phura Kancha (Thami) - Chile (Eugenio Guzman)
    Karma Gyalzen (Phortse) - USA (IMG, Mike Hamill)
    Phu Tashi (Phortse) - Canada (Peak Freaks, Tim Rippel)
    Palden Namgyal (Phortse) - Canada (Peak Freaks, Tim Rippel)
    Nima Dorje - (Seven Summit Treks)


expid: EVER12169
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Garrett Madison
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Everest Expedition 2012
countries: Australia, Ecuador, UK
bcdate: 2012-04-13
smtdate: 2012-05-18
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2012-05-23
othersmts: Climbed Lhotse by Marc Hester and Eric Murphy on 20th May at 3 pm (LHOT-121-23)
campsites: BC(13/04,5500m),C1(20/04,6000m),C2(22/04,6500m),C3(17/05,7300m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(18,20/05)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  As was common with the big commercial expeditions, this team sent a Sherpa to join in fixing rope to the summit. He was Kami Rita, and he worked his way to the top on 18 May.

  The expedition mounted one summit bid. All members except Girard and Murphy left C4 for the top at 8:30 pm on the 19th with Sherpas Ang Norbu, Ang Pasang, Dawa Nuru, Kami Rita (again to the top), Karma Sarki, Lhakpa Rita, Mingma Dorje, Mingma Chhiri and Pemba Tenzing.

  Matter got to 10 meters below the Hillary Step at 5:00 the next morning, then turned back to C4 because his hands were cold and he wanted to avoid frostbite; Mingma Dorje went down with him. Christopher Sobecki went up to 8450m (just below the Balcony) at 1:00 am, then retreated to C4 because of eye trouble; he was accompanied down by Dawa Nuru. The remaining summit-party members reached the summit at 6:07 am on 20 May and descended to C4.

  Other non-summiting members:

  Girard got to 6550m on 4 May, because exhausted and never got any higher. He left the team on 15 May.

  Murphy went to C4 to the South Col and waited there for Hester to join in a bid for Lhotse's summit.

  Oxygen was used by Clark and Mater from C2 to their high points to C2. All other summit-party members used it in C3 to high points to C2. Their Sherpas used it in C4 to their high points to C2.

  Lhotse saw two members of this expedition, Hester and Murphy, go to its summit. Murphy did not go to the top of Everest but stayed in C4 at 7900m while Hester did on 20 May. The next day, they moved down onto the West Face of Lhotse at the point where the routes to the summits of Everest and Lhotse diverge (at perhaps, 7300m), and from there climbed the remainder of Lhotse's West Face to its summit. They began the day's climb at 7:30 am, were on the summit at 3:00 pm, and were down in C2 in the Western Cwm (6500m) at 10:00 pm.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Norbu Sherpa, 5/12/81 (20/8/2038), Thami, no 8000ers
    Ang Pasang Sherpa, 19/6/87 (5/3/2024), Thami, Everest X1
    Kami Rita Sherpa, 17/1/70 (4/10/2026), Thami, Everest X16, Cho Oyu X4, Lhotse X1
    Karma Sarki Sherpa, 25/1/87 (11/10/2043), Yilajung (orig Phortse), Everest X1
    Lhakpa Rita Sherpa, 9/9/66 (24/5/2025), Thami, Everest X24, Cho Oyu X7
    Mingma Chhiri Sherpa, 22/7/68 (7/4/2025), Thami, Everest X15
    Pemba Tenzing Sherpa, 23/8/76 (7/5/5/2033), Phurte, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X2


  Note from IMG web site:

  8 Sherpas summited on 18 May as part of a joint expedition rope-fixing team:
    Ang Kazi (Chitre) - USA (North Face, Conrad Anker)
    Jyamchang Bhote (Hungung) - India (Ajay Kothiyal)
    Kami Rita (Thami) - USA (AAI, Garrett Madison)
    Phura Kancha (Thami) - Chile (Eugenio Guzman)
    Karma Gyalzen (Phortse) - USA (IMG, Mike Hamill)
    Phu Tashi (Phortse) - Canada (Peak Freaks, Tim Rippel)
    Palden Namgyal (Phortse) - Canada (Peak Freaks, Tim Rippel)
    Nima Dorje - (Seven Summit Treks)


expid: EVER12170
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Simone Moro
sponsor: 100% Brumotti Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2012-04-12
smtdate: 2012-05-05
termdate: 2012-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to overcrowding on Lhotse W Face
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak by all three members on 9 April
campsites: BC(12/04,5300m),C2(17/04,6500m),C3(24/04,7150m),xxx(25/04,7750m),xxx.Sherpas(05/05,7900m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  While acclimatizing, Moro climbed alone to 7750m on 24 April, and in early May (probably the 5th or 6th) the team's Sherpa reached the South Col at 7900m to deposit 12 bottles of oxygen and two tents. These turned out to be the team's high points.

  The two clients, Helmut and Hans Peter Karbon, who were brothers, did not go with Moro on 24th April because they were not feeling well. He did not push them to go with him to 7750m because they expected to use oxygen later in their summit bid. All three retreated to BC.

  No rope had yet been fixed to the South Col, so the team could not yet go higher. Moro, a helicopter pilot as well as mountaineer, took advantage of this situation to spend a week flying: he went up to 8200m for the American climber, photographer and writer David Breashears to take high-altitude pictures, and he flew various other passengers in the Everest area. The American climber, Dave Hahn, commented, "anytime there was a helicopter going, it was being flown by Simone. He was everywhere at once."

  On 22 May Moro and his two members left BC on their summit push. They went to C2 that day and to C3 on the 23rd. On the 24th, Helmut Karmon retreated to BC with a lung problem while Hans Peter Karbon and Moro, who were not using oxygen, went to 7500m, but then turned around. The weather was "lovely" but they saw more than 200 people going for the summit in single file in a queue who were using the one fixed rope, so he was climbing without fixed rope as well as without oxygen. (Han Peter also tried to pass people a little later). Moro saw a person in the queue who couldn't open his jumar and who had to call his Sherpa to open and close it for him. When Moro saw this, he gave up.

  Another consideration, he said, was his calculation of the load that was being put on the fixed rope and concluded that so many people pulling on it at the same time, taking two steps per minute, could pull it out and send them tumbling down the mountain.

  Moro and Hans Peter went down to BC and Moro decided their climb was finished.

  Vittorio Brumotti wanted to ride his mountain bicycle to the summit, but permission was denied by the Nepalese government. He returned to Italy without going to the mountain.


expid: EVER12171
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Bartolomiez Wroblewski
sponsor: Everest 2012
countries: Switzerland
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2012-04-18
smtdate: 2012-05-19
termdate: 2012-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to bad weather and later a feeling that something bad could happen
campsites: BC(18/04,5000m),ABC(25/04,6400m),C1(06/05,7000m),C2(18/05,7600m),xxx(19/05)
accidents: Bernhard fell down stairs in Nyalam (two broken ribs)
agency: World Records Expeditions
routememo:
  High point on 19 May at 7700m by Wroblewski and Ang Pasang.

  On their summit attempt, they left at C2 at 11 am. They had waited so long as the weather was bad. After having climbed for about one hour (their camp was very low) the weather still had not improved and when they had reached about 7700m at about 12 noon they decided to turn back. As they had not established C3 before-hand it was better to go down. They descended to ABC, where they arrived at about 5 pm.

  On 22 May they left ABC again for another summit attempt, but when they reached the North Col, Wroblewski got a bad feeling to carry on. He thought that something might happen if they continued and they turned back to ABC.

  They left BC on 25 May.

  Bernhard reached Nyalam on 13 May. He fell down the stairs in a restaurant and went back to Kathmandu, where he arrived on 15 April. On 16 April he went to CIWEC clinic and was diagnosed with two broken ribs. Instead of flying home, he opted to go to an Ayurveda Centre first in Kathmandu and then in Pokhara.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C1 to high point to C1 by Wroblewski
    During the night at C2 by Ang Pasang.

  Sherpa:
    Ang Pasang, Waku, Solukhumbu, 28/9/1979


expid: EVER12172
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Sweden
leaders: Lars Sandelius
sponsor: Sandelius to Everest
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2012-04-23
smtdate: 2012-05-19
smttime: 0750
termdate: 2012-05-24
campsites: BC(23/04,5200m),ABC(27/04,6400m),C1(08/05,7000m),C2(17/05,7700m),C3(18/05,8300m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  BC  23 Apr  5200m
  ABC 27 Apr  6400m
  C1  08 May  7000m
  C2  17 May  7700m
  C3  18 May  8300m
  Smt 19 May  by Sandelius, Tamting at 7:50 am.

  Team left C3 at 11 pm on 18 May. Weather was good ,but windy. Summit was very crowded; they stayed about half an hour on the summit. They descended to North Col, where they arrived at 6 pm. On 20 May descended to ABC and 21 May to BC. They left BC on 24 May.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C1 by both.

  Sherpa:
    Tamtin, Beding, Rolwaling, 19/12/1974, Cho Oyu X6, Everest X5


expid: EVER12173
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Dariusz Zaluski
sponsor: Poles on Everest
bcdate: 2012-04-25
smtdate: 2012-05-24
smttime: 0640
termdate: 2012-05-28
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak before going to Tibet
campsites: BC(25/04,5100m),ABC(28/04,6400m),C1(05/05,7000m),C2(23/05,7600m),C3(24/05,8200m),Smt(25/05)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  One member, Waskiewicz, quit the team early in its climbing period. He went to C1 on the North Col with the others in their first occupation of the camp on 5 May, but now he didn't feel strong, and the problems he could see above them were too much for him. He left the expedition on 7 May.

  There seemed the possibility of another casualty, in early May, when Szymczak developed a bad pulmonary infection. Everyone went down to the border village of Zangmu in order to lose altitude and rest. Szymczak fully recovered.

  The summit party consisted of just three members, plus three Sherpas, Pasang Gelu, Pemba Gyalzen and Rinji. The six men left C3 for the top on 24 may at 11:00 pm (NST). But only two of the Sherpas, Pemba Gyalzen and Rinji, actually went all the way to the summit: the Sherpas decided amongst themselves that the least experienced of them, Pasang Gelu, should stop a the Third Step (about 8650m.)

  Szymczak reached the summit at 6:40 am on 25 May, while the other two members, Kukuczka and Zaluski, got there at 6:55 am. The weather conditions were favourable: little wind and very clear skies, but rather cold. The clouds stayed away through out their descent to C1 by Kukuczka and Szymczak and to ABC by Zaluski.

  Oxygen was used by all summiting members in C2 to the top; Szymczak and Zaluski stopped using it when they returned to C2, but Kukuczka descended to C1 with it. Their Sherpas used it in C3 to their high points and down to wherever their supply ran out.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Gelu, 31/8/71, Jantarkhani-7, Okhaldhunga
    Pemba Gyalzen, 21/6/73, Khumjung, Everest X2
    Rinji Sherpa, 1964, Patle-6, Okhaldhunga


expid: EVER12174
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Alexander Kislitsyn
sponsor: Russians to Everest
countries: Nepal
bcdate: 2012-04-12
smtdate: 2012-05-20
smttime: 0530
termdate: 2012-05-12
campsites: BC(12/04,5200m),ABC(14/04,6400m),C1(12/05,7000m),C2,C3,Smt(20/05)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  BC  12 Apr  5200m
  ABC 14 Apr  6400m
  C1  12 May  7000m
  HPt 12 May  7000m by Kislitsyn
  C2          by Sherpas
  C3          by Sherpas
  Smt 20 May  by Nima Nuru, Chatur Tamang at 5:30 am.

  Kislitsyn was sick of most of the expedition. He had a stomach bug and never recoverred from it. He kept on trying to get higher, but only reached North Col once.

  Alexy Bukinich never reached BC. He left Tingri on 10 April. He seemed to have a problem with his blood (Kislitsyn could not explain it properly), which he had had before. He was worried about his health, so he left expedition and went back to Kathmandu.

  According to Kislitsyn, Ngima Nuru and Chatur left C3 at 9 pm on 19 May; according to Chatur Kumar, they started at midnight, and they went to ABC at 12 noon. They had ascended from ABC to C3 in one day. 

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C1 to top to C2 by Sherpas.
    Kislitsyn did not use any oxygen.

  Sherpas:
    Ngima Nuru, Tesho, Khumbu 6/11/1981
    Chatur Kumar Tamang, 25/8/1973, Chhanga, Kanku-4, Solu, Cho Oyu X1


expid: EVER12175
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Mike Roberts
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Everest Expedition 2012
countries: Finland, Norway, Poland, Spain, Sweden, Tanzania, UK
bcdate: 2012-04-09
smtdate: 2012-05-19
smttime: 0320
termdate: 2012-05-22
campsites: BC(09/04,5300m),C1(18/04,6100m),C2(20/04,6450m),C3(17/04,7300m),C4(18/04,7900m),Smt(19,25/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  The expedition went to the summit in two parties:

  The first group, who left C4 on the 18th of May, consisted of Beard, Cammell, Clofent, Moshi, Roberts, Smolokowska and Staples with Sherpas Ang Gelu, Chuldim Dorje, Dawa Jangbu, Kami Rita, Lhakpa Dorje, Lhakpa Tenzing, Ang Nawang, Pemba Chhoti and Sona Tshering. They left camp between 7:30 pm (Clofent and three Sherpas) and 9:00 pm (Smolokowska and Staples plus three more Sherpas). They were on the summit on 19 May between 3:20 am (Clofent, Chhuldim Dorje, Kami Rita and Ang Nawang) and 10:10 am (Smolokowska, Staples, Lhakpa Dorje and Lhakpa Tenzing). Clofent was the first member back in C4 (at 8:30 am), and the last were Moshi, Roberts, Smolokowska and Staples (at 4:30 pm).

  The first party descended for C4 to C2 on the 20th and were down in BC on the 21st.

  The much smaller second summit team was composed of just two members, Lindquist and Saunders with four Sherpas, Datuk Bhote, Lhakpa, Sange Dorje and Chhewang Rinzing. They left together at 9:00 pm on the 24th and summited at 5:10 am on 25 May. They were back in C4 at 10:00 am and continued down to C2 at 4:30 pm. They returned to BC on the 26th.

  Members used oxygen in and from C3 to the top to wherever their supply ran out.  Their Sherpas used in C4 to the top to C4.

  Non-summiting members:

  Mustad went to the South Col on 19 May, but then had no more strength or motivation to go to the top.

  Suomela reached 7300m on 30 April, then developed a neurological problem and left the team on 4 May.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Gelu Sherpa, 28/4/86, Phedi-9, Khotang, Everest X2
    Ang Ngawang Sherpa, 10/1/88 (26/9/2044), Sanam, Gudel-4, Solu
    Chhewang Rinzing, 2/8/71 (17/4/2028), Taksindu, Solu
    Chuldim Dorje Sherpa, 25/11/64, Pangboche, Everest X15, Cho Oyu X3
    Datuk Bhote, 20/10/88 (4/7/2045) Chepuwa-4, Makalu, Sankhuwasabha, no 8000ers
    Dawa Jangbu/Da Jangbu Sherpa, 22/4/73, Pangboche, Everest X9, Cho Oyu X1
    Kami Rita Sherpa, 22/10/77 (6/7/2034), Thami Og, Everest 5/5/11, with Roberts
    Lhakpa Sherpa, 20/6/75 (6/3/2032), Sotang-6, Solu. Cho Oyu X1 
    Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa, 16/11/61, Sanam, Gudel-4, Solu, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X3, 
      Kang X1, Lhotse X1, Makalu X1
    Lhakpa Tenzing Sherpa, 21/12/70, Sanam, Gudel-4, Solu, Cho Oyu X1, Makalu X1
    Pemba Chhoti Sherpa, 25/11/72, Thami, Everest X4
    Sange Dorje, 14/4/78, Khumjung, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X2
    Sonam Tshering/Ang Sona, 1/10/86, Khunde, Everest X3


expid: EVER12168
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Kari Kobler
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Everest Expedition 2012
countries: Czech Republic, Germany, UK
bcdate: 2012-04-14
smtdate: 2012-05-25
smttime: 0400
termdate: 2012-05-28
campsites: BC(14/04,5200m),ABC(21/04,6400m),C1(02/05,7000m),C2(17/05,7700m),C3(24/05,8300m),Smt(25/05)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  After the expedition had arrived at BC on 14 April, they trekked around the BC area and climbed three nearby peaks to acclimatize before going up to ABC on the 21st.

  The group made two attempts to reach the summit. On 17 May, they slept in C2 at 7700m, but the wind was too strong to make a summit bid the next day, so after ascending only 100m, they went down to ABC on the 18th instead.

  They were back in C2 on 22 May, stayed there on the 23rd, moved up to C3 on the 24th, and left C3 for the top at 10:00 pm (NST) on the 24th. The climbers who set out from C3 were McDonald, Meister, Meyerhoff, Sprenger, Urech and Wellig, plus Sherpas Gyamjo, Kanchha Lama, Kusang Tenzing, Mingma Gyabu, Nima Thenduk, Pemba Sherpa, Pemba Nurbu and Wangchu Sherpa.

  Two other Sherpas went with the summit team only as far as 8500m to place a supply of oxygen there and then returned to C3 to be on standby in case they were needed for a rescue. They were Chhiti Thinduk Bhote and Tenji Sherpa.

  All summit party members and Sherpas summited at 4:00 to 4:30 am on 25 May. All of them descended all the way to ABC the same day: McDonald returned to ABC at 12:00 noon, most of the other members at 4:00 pm, while Meister, Meyerhoff and Kobler got there at 6:00 pm. (Kobler had not gone for the summit on 24-25 May, but did climb to 7800m on the aborted first summit attempt on 18 May; he stayed during most of the climbing period in C1 to direct operations and now joined the summiters in their descent to ABC).

  The climbers moved down to BC on the 26th and left BC on the 28th to return to Kathmandu and for most members to leave Nepal on the 29th of May.

  Oxygen was used by the members of the successful summit party from C1 to the top to wherever their supply ran out. Their Sherpas used it in and from C2 to their high points to C3.

  Non-summiting members:

  Dusatko got to 7000m on 23 May, but was suffering from stomach trouble and descended to ABC.

  Kobler climbed to 7800m on 18 May, but stayed most of the time in C1 (see summit party paragraph above).

  Wild reached 7800m on 21 May, but had a respiratory infection so went down to BC the same day.

  Sherpas:
    Chhiti Thinduk Bhote, 25/8/81, Hatiya-3, Makalu, Everest X1
    Gyamjo Sherpa, 3/8/86, Ghunsa, Lelep-9, Taplejung
    Kancha Lama Sherpa, 19/11/83, Taksindu-2, Solu
    Kusang Tenzing Sherpa, 16/5/86, Ghunsa, Lelep-9, Taplejung, Everest X3,
      Manaslu X1
    Mingma Gyabu Sherpa, 19/1/88, Ghunsa, Lelep-9, Taplejung
    Nima Tendu/Ngima Thenduk, 31/8/73, Mathilow, Upper Walung, Makalu-9, Everest X3
    Pemba Sherpa, 9/7/82, Ghunsa, Lelep-9, Taplejung, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Pemba Nurbu Sherpa, 6/12/78, Ghunsa, Lelep-9, Taplejung, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X2
    Tenji Sherpa, 16/4/81, Tapting-7, Solu, Everest X1
    Wangchu Sherpa, 2/2/78, Taksindu, Solu, Everest X4


expid: EVER12166
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Everest Expedition 2012
countries: Australia, Ecuador, France, Latvia, Mexico, Norway, Russia, UK, USA
bcdate: 2012-04-09
smtdate: 2012-04-29
termdate: 2012-05-07
termnote: Abandoned at 7250m due to unsafe conditions in icefall and Lhotse Face
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East by all members
campsites: BC(09/04,5267m),C1(26/04,6100m),C2(26/04,6480m),xxx.Mbrs(29/04,6600m),xxx.Sherpas(7250m)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  BC at lowest of the BCs
  C1 by 3 members only: Avila, Doyle & Jones
  C2 by all other members
  High point at bergschrund at foot of Lhotse Face.

  After occupying BC on 9 April, the expedition went to climb nearby Lobuche East. They made their BC for this climb 15 minutes before Lobuche village on 14 April, a high camp on the 15th, summited by all members except Brown on the 16th, and back to Everest BC. Still in their acclimatization period, the team returned to Lobuche East without a high camp, summited by all members on the 18th, remained on the summit for two nights, and went back to Everest BC on 20 April.

  The expedition's C2 in the Western Cwm, near the foot of the West Face of Lhotse, was occupied on 26 April. For further acclimatization, on the morning of 29 April all members walked over to the bergschrund, the deep crevasse between the floor of the Western Cwm and the foot of Lhotse's West Face, at an altitude of about 6600m. They returned to BC on 1 May.

  6600m turned out to be the member's high point: on 5 May, the leader, Russell Brice, cancelled the expedition. In a statement explaining this dramatic move, Brice said:

  "Already at the beginning of the season, the Sherpas were saying that it was too warm when they were setting up base camp. They were working in T-shirts."

  "Our Sherpas continuously reported that the Icefall is more dangerous and the 'popcorn area' is more active this year. They were not worried about taking the risk but they were very aware of the increased hazards."

  "In 2011, the risk of the looming seracs on the west ridge was more acceptable as the debris fell into the bergschrund, a crevasse between the glacier and the mountain. Then we were about 100m away from where debris was falling. However, this year the bergschrund is filled and there is no protection at all. The route has dropped off and now we are only 25m to 30m away from debris, which is constantly covering the route."

  "We timed our guide Adrian (Ballinger), who is incredibly fast, and it took him 22 minutes from the beginning to the end of the danger zone. For the Sherpas carrying heavy loads it took 30 minutes and most of our members took between 45 minutes and one hour to walk underneath this dangerous cliff. In my opinion, this is far too long to be exposed to such a danger, and when I see around 50 people moving underneath the cliff at one time, it scares me."

  "When we first arrived at base camp at the beginning of April, the crack in the ice block on the west ridge was pretty small, now it is probably between five and seven meters wide. This means that the pressure within the ice blocks is huge. So far, we only had small pieces come down. However, there is certainly the potential for a huge collapse, which could kill and injure a large number of people."

  "We have been recording the temperature at 2 am, when the Sherpas are usually leaving to go through the Icefall. There have only been a few days when it was colder than -10 C, which is unusual and not really cold enough to be moving through the Icefall."

  "Now it is only the beginning of May and lakes are forming at base camp. Today, on 8th May, it is as warm as it normally is at the end of the season, and it will only get warmer, which means the danger in the Icefall will increase."

  "There is not only the potential of something happening when we go up but also when we come down. First we have to get the clients through the Icefall at the end of the expedition and then our Sherpas will have to work for another few days to clear the mountain. This decision is not only about the situation on the mountain tomorrow but about the conditions in the near future."

  "We had a close call in an avalanche about one week ago. Two of our clients and a guide had a near miss in the avalanche that came down from Nuptse. We normally do not see such massive ice cliff coming down from Nuptse, and we were very lucky that the two clients decided to stay at C1 that day and not carry on to C2. This was one of the early warning signs."

  "The rockfall of the Lhotse face has also been a huge danger to everyone. We have seen quite a few accidents caused by the falling rocks. The reason is the very dry season this year, and even though we have had a bit of snowfall higher up, it had not improved the situation much. A few more warm days like today in combination with big gust of wind and we will see these rocks flying again."

  "When you add all these things together, the danger is certainly past my parameters. There are just too many indicators, such as the big ice cliff that fell into the lake in the Annapurna region and caused the floods, that the weather is just not right this season." 

  One member, David McGrain, had already canceled his climb. He had decided that Everest and the Khumbu Icefall were not for him. 

  The expedition actually experienced no accidents in its final days. All members and Sherpas got off the mountain safely except for one Sherpa, Dawa Tenzing from Phortse, who had collapsed on 1 May while descending from C2. He was evacuated from C1 and died of stroke in a Kathmandu hospital soon afterwards.

  The high points for the Sherpas was 7250m, where they had pitched C3 on the west face of Lhotse on 27 April. The camp was never occupied by members, and on 8 May it was dismantled and the gear removed by Sherpas.

  Sherpa fatality:
    Dawa Tenzing Sherpa, 22/7/70, Phortse, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X2


expid: EVER12161
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Mark Schwab
sponsor: Wilderness Medical Society Everest Expedition
countries: Sweden, UK
bcdate: 2012-04-10
smtdate: 2012-05-19
smttime: 1145
termdate: 2012-05-23
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak by 4 members and 3 Sherpas on 7 April
campsites: BC(10/04,5250m),C1(19/04,6100m),C2(24/04,6550m),C3(02/05,7250m),C4(18/05,7800m),Smt(19/05)
accidents: Huseyin Tuncel respiratory problem
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  C2 at high C2
  C3 at low C3
  C4 at South Col.

  The expedition's summit party left C4 for the top at 9:00 pm on 18 May. They were three members and three Sherpas: Kober, Schwab and Sullivan with Mingma Dorje, Nima Thundu and Pasang Bhote. However, it was only Sullivan and Mingma Dorje who reached  the summit. Schwab got to 8300m, then gave up his summit bid because he was exhausted and one toe was becoming frostbitten. Nima Thundu turned back with him, and they retreated to C4. Kober turned around just below the South Summit at about 8700m, also too tired to continue his ascent, and Pasang Bhote went back to C4 with him.

  Sullivan and Mingma Dorje went on to the summit, where they arrived at 11:45 am on 19 May in cold and very windy weather. They returned to C4 to spend that night. They were delayed in getting to C4 by stopping to help an American climber who was somersaulting down the mountain below the Balcony.

  The team's tents at C3 were taken away by an ice avalanche while they were making their summit attempt. Schwab descended to C2 on the 19th while the other members followed him there on the 20th.

  Oxygen was used by members from C3 to high points down to various places: Kober to C4, Sullivan to C2, Schwab to bottom of Lhotse face (about 6600m). Sherpas used it from C4 to to high points to C4 or lower.

  Other non-summiting members:

  Eneling reached only 5640m (in Icefall), was asthamatic, left expedition on 19 April.

  Rajagopalan also reached only 5640m, lacked motivation to continue, left team on 17 April.

  Tuncel reached C3, descended, and later tried to go high but turned back at only 6150m on 17 May with a respiratory problem and exhaustion.

  Summit Party Sherpas:
    Mingma Dorje/Mingmar Dorji, 17/7/79, Tapting-1, Solu, Everest X3
    Nima Thundu, 28/4/80, Pangboche, Khumbu, Everest X2
    Pasang Bhote, 19/5/86, Chepuwa-4, (son of Lhakpa Bhote), Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2

  Note: Pemba Rita and Dawa Tenzin (originally with this expedition) summited with the Peak Promotion Indian team led by Umesh Zirpe on 19 May.


expid: EVER12142
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Shrihari Tapkir
sponsor: Sagarmatha Guryopohan Sanstha Mission Everest 2012
approach: Pangboche->Island Peak
bcdate: 2012-04-16
smtdate: 2012-05-18
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2012-05-21
campsites: BC(16/04,5350m),C1(24/11,6000m),C2(24/11,6400m),C3(17/05,7300m),C4(18/05,8000m),Smt(18-19/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Summit on 19 May by Bansode and Chhang Babu at 11:45 am, Palkar and Lhakpa at 8:40 am and Tapkir and Pemba Thinduk at 6:30 am.

  Tapkir and Pemba left C4 at 7 pm on 18 May, Bansode and Chang Babu left C4 at 7:30 pm, Palkar, Mane, Nima and Lhakpa left at 8 pm.

  Mane reached 8540m, but his cough was too strong, so he decided to turn back. Nima stayed with him. They descended to C3, where they arrived at 7 pm. When Tapkir went up the traffic jam at the Hillary Step was not too bad, but Bansode had to wait for 2 hours when he arrived there at 9 am. Tapkir is supposed to have been the first non-Sherpa summiter on the south side. He stayed about 10 minutes there. When Bansode reached the summit it was very crowded. Everyone descended to C4, where Tapkir, Palkar, Lhakpa and Pemba arrived at 4 pm. Bansode and Chang Babu arrived at 7:30 pm.

  Palkar ran out of oxygen below the Balcony and collapsed. Lhakpa went to C4 to collect some oxygen, in the meantime Mingma Sherpa was giving him oxygen and helped him down. Palkar was very slow, but could walk on his own.

  On 20 May they all descended to C2. On 21 May they descended to BC, where they arrived at 3 pm. At 6 pm Bansode, Palkar and Tapkir took helicopter to Lukla.

  Bordoloi reached C2 on 25 April, but had a chest infection and was helicoptered out of BC on 13 May.

  Gulave reached about 5600m on 20 April. He was on his way to C1 but had trouble with his boot and turned back to BC. The same day he had a stroke and was taken to HRA clinic, where he stayed the night. During the night he suffered another stroke and was airlifted to Kathmandu on 21 April. He was in Om hospital for four days and was then transferred to Pune by air ambulance. He died in a hospital in Pune on 27 April.

  Injuries:

  Palkar has bad frostbite on two fingers on right hand. He must have got it when he took his mitten off at the Balcony to have a drink and lost it. He had another glove but it was not warm enough.

  Mane had frostbite on three fingers on right hand.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members.
    From C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.

  Dispute:

  There are disputes that Bansode and Palkar summited. Members of Umesh Zirpe's expedition told me that Bansode told them that he had only reached the South Summit. He told the other Indian expedition that he only had one oxygen cyclinder left, pitch would not have been enough to get back to C6. When I talked to Bansode on the phone on 26 May he told me that he had been joking and was not serious about having only reached the South Summit.

  Palkar was seen by other climber just outside the South Col at about 4:30 pm. He had collapsed and told them that he had not summited.

  Jesus Morales from the Seven Summit Trek Spanish expedition told me [Billi Bierling] on 25 May that he saw Tapkir on the summit. I also saw his summit pictures.

  Chhang Babu Sherpa confirms that he summited with Bansode. He says they were many people on the summit.

  Lhakpa Sherpa confirms that he summited with Palkar. He also told me that Palkar was feeling very sick on his descent and ran out of oxygen.

  Sherpas:
    Chhang Babu Sherpa, Beding [Makalu-9], 23/6/82, Dhaulagiri X1
    Lhakpa Sherpa, Walung, Makalu-9, 16/8/1992, 1st 8000er
    Pemba Thinduk, Makalu-9, Makalu-Barun, 18/4/1982, Everest X3

  Note from IMG web site:

  8 Sherpas summited on 18 May as part of a joint expedition rope-fixing team:
    Ang Kazi (Chitre) - USA (North Face, Conrad Anker)
    Jyamchang Bhote (Hungung) - India (Ajay Kothiyal)
    Kami Rita (Thami) - USA (AAI, Garrett Madison)
    Phura Kancha (Thami) - Chile (Eugenio Guzman)
    Karma Gyalzen (Phortse) - USA (IMG, Mike Hamill)
    Phu Tashi (Phortse) - Canada (Peak Freaks, Tim Rippel)
    Palden Namgyal (Phortse) - Canada (Peak Freaks, Tim Rippel)
    Nima Dorje - (Seven Summit Treks)


expid: EVER12140
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Mike Hamill
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Everest Expedition 2012
countries: Canada, Finland, Germany, Latvia, Mexico, Norway, Saudi Arabia, Singapore
bcdate: 2012-04-09
smtdate: 2012-05-18
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2012-05-28
agency: Beyul Adventure
othersmts:
  Climbed Lhotse by Michael Moniz and Chewang Lendu on 26 May 2012 (LHOT-121-24); Lobuche East summited by first group

campsites:
  BC(09/04,5250m),C1(19/04,6065m),C2(22/04,6500m),C3(17/05,7300m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(18-19,26/05) (see route notes for additional details)

routememo:
  First Group:
    BC(09/04,5250m)
    C1(19/04,6065m)
    C2(22/04,6500m)
    C3(17/05,7300m)
    C4(18/05,7900m)
    Smt(19/05)

  Second Group:
    BC(24/04,5250m)
    C1(26/04,6065m)
    C2(30/04,6500m)
    C3(24/05,7300m)
    C4(25/05,7900m)
    Smt(26/05)

  This very large expedition was divided into two teams who arrived at BC two weeks apart. The first group arrived on 9 April and was led by the expedition's overall leader, Mike Hamill. The second one reached BC on 24 April and was led by Greg Vernovage. They used the same campsites up the mountain, but they summited one week apart. Altogether 23 of the 36 members got to the top. 59 Sherpas went above BC, and 25 of them summited.

  The successful climbers accomplished the first ascent by a Latvian woman, Ms Olga Kotova, and a remarkable continuous ascent and descent by a Mexican, David Pastor, and Mingma Tenzing Sherpa. The three summited on the same day, 26 May.

  After arriving at BC, the first group went for an acclimatization climb of Lobuche East. Most members and some of their Sherpas got to its summit on 14 May. Then they turned their attention to Everest. On the West Face of Lhotse, they made their route on the right side of the face, like the British 1953 route, where climbers were not threathened by the rock fall that was a serious menace in the early weeks of the season.

  Thirteen members of the first group set out for the top from C4 at about 8:00 am on the 18th; they were Al-Faisal, Amatangel, Cann, Dost, Merle, Meittinen, Nelson, Neumann, O'Brien, Pettijohn, Polloczek, Simmons and Wedberg. Two never got there: Cann and Pettijohn were too slow and had to turn back to C4. The remaining 11 members reached the summit on 19 May between 4:33 am (O'Brien) and 9:15 am. (Al-Saud and Amatangel). With them was an equal number of Sherpas: Ang Chhiring, Ang Gyalzen, Chewang Lendu, Chhiring, Kancha Nuru, Mingma, Mingma Dorje, Mingma Tenzing (1/6/86), another Mingma Tenzing, Pemba, Phinjo Dorje, Tenjing Gyalzen, and Tseten Dorje. Two of these Sherpas had to turn back with the two slow members: Ang Chhiring went down with Cann, and Ang Gyalzen with Pettijohn. The successful members got back to C4 from 10:30 am (O'Brien) to 3:28 pm (Dost, Merle and Neumann).

  The second group came along seven days later. Thirteen members, Berger, Bunce, Dailey, Field, Hannenann, Haugen, Kotova, Moniz, Pastor, Prudnikova, Rasappan, Remza and Sand left C4 around 8:00-8:30 pm on the 25th with 15 Sherpas, Ang Chhiring, Ang Karma, Chewang Lendu (again from BC), Da Rita, Danuru, Dawa Finchok, Karma Dorje, Mingma Chhiring, Mingma Tenzing (1/6/86)(again from BC), Nuru Gyalzen, Phu Tashi, Phunuru, Phurba Ongyal, Samduk Dorje. Remza had stomach trouble and turned back, but all the others got to the top on 26 May between 2:56 am (Pastor and Mingma Tenzing) and 7:15 am (Bunce, a guide, bringing up the rear). All descended to C2; first, were Pastor and Mingma Tenzing at 10:30 am and last was Bunce (7:20 pm).

  Pastor and Mingma Tenzing were a special pair: they made a continuous climb up and down the mountain, with pauses along the way. They left BC at 1:00 am of the 25th, reached C2 at 5:30 am and stayed there an hour. At 6:30 am they started up again, arrived at C3 at 10:30 am, stayed half an hour and left at 11:00 am. On their way up to C4, they waited half an hour for a Spaniard's body to be brought down, then resumed their climb and reached C4 at the South Col at 2:00 pm. They stayed in C4, waiting for the second group's summit party to leave for the top, and at 8:20 am on the set out with them. Pastor now had stomach trouble, "but I kept going," he said, and they were on the summit at 4:16 am on 26 May in perfect weather.

  Pastor and Mingma Tenzing stayed on the summit only long enough to take a few pictures, then down to C4 at 7:15 am, left C4 an hour later, and were back in C2 at 10:54 am. They stopped in C2 to eat dal bhat with some Sherpas and left C2 while Mingma Tenzing stayed in BC, Pastor left at 1:00 pm for Pheriche, where he arrived at 5:30 pm to rest in the local lodge.

  Pastor and Mingma Tenzing had used oxygen from C3 to the summit and back to C3.  The other members of the second group used it from C3 to their high point to C2. Their Sherpas used it sleeping in C3, climbing from C4 to high points and down to C2. In the first group, the members were on oxygen from C2 to their high points to C2, but the guides on the team used it only from C3 to top to C3. The Sherpas used it in and from C4 to high point to and in C4 or, if they still had some left, down to C2.

  After Moniz and Chewang Lendu had summited Everest on the 26th, they moved from C4 down the Geneva Spur and up the West Face of Lhotse to a camp at Lhotse's C4 (7800m) that had been established on the 24th by other climbers. On 27 May, they left the camp at 2:00 am and reached Lhotse's summit at 5:55 am. They descended all the way to BC, where they arrived at 2:00 pm.

  A total of three members were on a Lhotse permit, Peter Ford, Ms. Kerrie McMartin and Moniz, but Moniz was the only one to actually try for the summit. McMartin went only as far as C2 about 8 May, was too tired to go any higher and went home. Ford got to C3 about 17 May, but the ropes had not been fixed all the way to the top; he had no time to wait and left the team on 19 May.

  Non-summiting Everest members:

  Lawrence Cann was too slow to go above 8475m in the first group's summit bid on 19 May.

  Mike Hamill went no higher than C3 because he got a virus infection on 17 May.

  John Heinle in early May got pulmonary edema in C2, was brought down to BC on oxygen, and left Nepal.

  Kevin Jones had gotten to C2, but when he returned to BC was diagnosed at the clinic as having a blood clot in his left leg and was evacuated by helicopter from BC in the third week of April. The diagnosis was confirmed in Kathmandu and he went home.

  David Markwell reached C3 on 24 May with the second group in occuping the camp, but got diarrhea and immediately retreated to BC and left the expedition.

  John O'Meara reached C3 on 17 May, but had a respiratory infection and left the expedition on the 18th.

  Brady Myers got above C2 on 8 May, but no ropes had been fixed above C3, and he was not willing to wait, so he went home.

  Karl Pettijohn got to 8350m on 19 May with the first group on their way to the summit, but was too slow to go higher.

  Eric Remza had a bad stomach ache, dropped out of the summit party at the Balcony (8500m) at 1:20 am on the 26th and returned to C4 alone.

  Greg Vernovage was leader of the second group, never went above BC.

  Jim Walkley reached C3 during the team's acclimatization period and descended to BC with the others, but he wasn't well and when they went back up about 19 May, he was unable to go above C2.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Chhiring (Kami) Sherpa, 1962 (2019), Pangboche, Everest X11, Cho Oyu X7
    Ang Gyalzen Sherpa, 18/3/83 (4/12/20239), Garma-3, Solu
    Ang Karma Sherpa, 25/7/74, (10/4/2031), Phortse, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2
    Chewang Lendu Sherpa, 19/4/80 (7/1/2037), Phortse, Everest X2, Lhotse X4, 
      Cho Oyu X1, Manaslu X1
    Chhiring Sherpa, 31/8/91 (15/5/2048), Sisuwakhola-9, Sankhuwasabha, no 8000ers
    Da Rita Sherpa, 25/11/76 (10/8/2033), Phortse, no 8000ers
    Da Nuru Sherpa, 19/5/59, Phortse, Everest X9, Cho Oyu X5, Makalu X1
    Dawa Finchok Sherpa, 16/7/82 (1/4/2039), Lamabagar-3, Dolakha, Everest X1, 
      Kang X1, Dhaulagiri X1
    Kancha Nuru Sherpa, 30/11/82, (15/8/2039), Phorstse, Everest X4
    Karma Dorje Sherpa, 25/11/85 (10/8/2042), Phortse, no 8000ers
    Mingma Sherpa, 20/1/77 (7/10/2033), Phortse, no 8000ers
    Mingma Chhiring Sherpa, 26/4/72 (14/1/2029), Phortse, Everest X8, Cho Oyu X2
      Brother of Danuru and Panuru
    Mingma Dorje Sherpa, 22/7/65 (7/4/2022), Everest X6, Cho Oyu X2
    Mingma Tenzing Sherpa, 10/6/92, Phortse, Everest X1
    Mingma Tenzing Sherpa, 1/6/86 (18/2/2043), Phortse, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X5
    Nuru Gyalzen Sherpa, 18/8/73 (2/5/2030), Phortse, Everest X5, Manaslu X2
    Pemba Sherpa, 21/8/91 (5/5/2048), Phortse, no 8000ers
    Phinjo Dorje Sherpa, 3/9/86 (18/5/2043), Pangboche, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X1
    Phu Tashi Sherpa, 17/11/72 (2/8/2029), Pangboche, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X1
    Phunuru Sherpa, 16/5/80 (3/2/2037), Phortse, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X8
    Phurba Ongyal Sherpa, 26/5/88 (13/2/2045), Pangboche, no 8000ers
    Samduk Dorje Tamang, 31/5/83 (17/2/2040), Pangboche, Everest X6
    Tenjing Gyalzen Sherpa, 2/7/91 (18/3/2048), Phortse, no 8000ers
    Tseten Dorje Sherpa, 28/4/79 (15/1/2036), Pangboche, Everest X1

  Note from IMG web site:

  8 Sherpas summited on 18 May as part of a joint expedition rope-fixing team:
    Ang Kazi (Chitre) - USA (North Face, Conrad Anker)
    Jyamchang Bhote (Hungung) - India (Ajay Kothiyal)
    Kami Rita (Thami) - USA (AAI, Garrett Madison)
    Phura Kancha (Thami) - Chile (Eugenio Guzman)
    Karma Gyalzen (Phortse) - USA (IMG, Mike Hamill)
    Phu Tashi (Phortse) - Canada (Peak Freaks, Tim Rippel)
    Palden Namgyal (Phortse) - Canada (Peak Freaks, Tim Rippel)
    Nima Dorje - (Seven Summit Treks)


expid: EVER12139
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Kazi Sherpa
sponsor: Sikkim Everest Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Dingboche->Lobuche
bcdate: 2012-04-08
smtdate: 2012-05-19
smttime: 1028
termdate: 2012-05-23
campsites: BC(08/04,5400m),C1(17/04,6100m),C2(22/04,6400m),C3(23/04,7200m),C4(18/05,8000m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Loben Expeditions
routememo:
  Kazi and Phurba started their summit bid at 8 pm on 18 May from C4. They got to the summit at 10:28 NST on 19 May and spent 20 minutes on the summit. They got back to C4 at 4 pm. On 20 May they spent night at C2 and on 21 May went down to BC. Ahead of the Kazi team there were 50-60 climbers.

  Sherpa:
    Phurba Gyalzen Sherpa, 31/8/78 (15/5/2035) 


expid: EVER12138
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Wang Tian-Han
sponsor: One Chinese on Everest
smtdate: 2012-05-18
termnote: Abandoned at 7790m due to interception by Tibetan authorities
campsites: BC(5200m),ABC(6500m),xxx(18/05,7790m)
agency: None
routememo:
  In mid-May, a 38-year-old Chinese man, Wang Tian-Han, who was well outfitted for an Himalayan ascent, was discovered to have climbed on the Tibetan side as high as Camp 2 at 7790m on about 18 May. He was forced to descend by four students from the Tibet Mountain School at Lhasa, who brought him down through Camp 1 with his wrists tied together. It is not known what punishment he received for this unauthorized bid.

  Nor is it known why he had gone to the mountain in the first place. He had already made a successful ascent on 17 May 2002 with a Tibetan assistant, Rinchen Phuntsok, after they had set up the usual number of camps on the normal route. Perhaps this time he wanted to make an ascent without an assistant and without using any bottled oxygen. In any case, he was forcibly stopped in his tracks.


expid: EVER12132
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Park Gye-Hoon
sponsor: Korean Chungnam High School Everest-Lhotse Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Tengboche->Dingboche->Lobuche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2012-04-07
smtdate: 2012-05-19
smttime: 0705
termdate: 2012-05-27
othersmts: Attempted Lhotse (LHOT-12129)
campsites: BC(07/04,5400m),C1(12/04,6000m),C2(15/04,6400m),C3(30/04,7300m),C4(17/05,8000m),Smt(19/05)
accidents: Song Won-Bin died on 19 May at Balcony due to high altitude sickness
agency: Tseringma Treks
routememo:
  Kim Young-Il, Song, Sanu, Wangchukal and Tashi left C4 at 8 pm on 18 May for summit. They got to the top at 7:05 am of 19 May and stayed on summit for 40 minutes. Kim Young-Il returned to C4 at 9:30 pm. He spent the night at C1. Next day 20 May he slept at C2 and following day on 21 May went down to BC. Other member Song was stuck at Hillary Step for four hours due to heavy traffic. He was rescued by Sherpas from Hillary Step. Later he was partly snowblind and his climbing Sherpas bought him down to Balcony where he collapsed [and died]. On 24 May, a team of six Sherpas sent up to collect the body. On 25 May the Sherpa team brought the body to C3 and next day 26 May they arrived at C2. On 27 May the body was helicoptered from C2 to Kathmandu. On 29 may the body was cremated in Swayambhu, Kathmandu at the presence of Song's uncle and brother who arrived Kathmandu on 28 May.

  Kim Jin-Sung and Park went up to C3 on 30 April. Kim Jin-Sung was tired, so he did not try to go to summit. Park's plan was to go to Everest and Lhotse. He dropped his plan due to the death of Song.

  Sherpas:
    Sanu, 30/4/75, Walung, Makalu-9, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X2, Lhotse X1, Manaslu X1
    Wangchukal, 19/1/80, Olangchungola-9, Taplejung, Everest X3
    Tashi, 4/12/77, Cheremy, Bung-9, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X4


expid: EVER12131
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Alex Abramov
sponsor: Seven Summits Club Everest Expedition
countries: Poland, UAE, UK, Ukraine, USA
approach: Lhasa->Gyantse->Xigatse->BC
bcdate: 2012-04-17
smtdate: 2012-05-19
smttime: 0545
termdate: 2012-05-24
agency: 7 Summits Adventure
campsites:
  BC(17/04,5100m),IC(20/04,5800m),ABC(25/04,6400m),C1(01/05,7000m),C2(17/05,7700m),C3(18/05,8300m),Smt(20/05)

routememo:
  The first team consisting of Abramov, Dusharin, Khadzhier, Korobeshko, Konyukhov, Shakirov, Larin, Ngima Ongdi, Pasang Gyalzen, Pasang, Phurba Kusang, Renje Lhakpa, Rinjen and Tenjen started from C3 at 10 pm CST on 18 May. The team got to the top between 5:45-5:50 am on 19 May and stayed on summit for about an hour to an hour and half. They got back to C3 between 9 am to 12 noon. The team continued to descend to ABC where the first member arrived at 2 pm and last one at about 10 pm.  The summit day weather was a little windy.

  The second team consisting of Albogachieva, Bogomolov, Hanna, Kadochin, Korenkov, Pratt, Jangbu, Nima Dorje, Nurbu, Pemba Nurbu and Pemba Rinjen started from C3 at 1 am (CST) on 20 May. The first members reached to the top at 8 am (Hanna and Pratt) and last one at 9 am (Bogomolov). The team got back to C3 first one at 11 pm and last one at 4 pm. Pratt went down to ABC and rest of the members spent night at North Col. The summit day weather was windy and low visibility.

  Sherpas:
    Jangbu, 26/8/1985, Balakharka, Makalu-5, Everest X4
    Ngima Ongdi, 19/2/1979, Makalu-5, Everest X4
    Nima Dorje, 2/10/1987, Makalu-5
    Nurbu, 16/2/1991, Makalu-5
    Pasang Gyaljen, 30/7/1981, Makalu-9
    Pasang, 20/02/1983, Makalu-4
    Pemba Nurbu, 28/3/1980, Tashigaon, Makalu-5, Everest X5
    Pemba Rinjin, 1965, Balakharka, Makalu-5
    Phurba Kusang, 6/12/73, Makalu-9
    Renje Lhakpa, 17/2/88, Makalu-5, Everest X1
    Rinjen, 1/2/73, Balakharka, Makalu-5, Everest X7
    Tenjen, 14/4/1991, Balakharka, Makalu-5

  Zygmunt Berdychowski went up to 6800m; he was tired and left with Deyak.

  Semen Deyak to mid-camp (5800m) on 20 April. He left CBC for Kathmandu on 30 April.  His plan was to go to North Col (7000m) only.

  Kirill Muravev was at ABC on 19 May and suffered from fever.

  Nathaniel Schneider went up to North Col (7000m); he left expedition around 14 May; he suffered from cough.

  Sergey Shehekoldin went up to North Col (7000m) and left expedition around 5 May and arrived Kathmandu on 6 May.

  Visan Yusupov went up to mid-camp (5800m); he remained at BC.


expid: EVER12130
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Ferran Latorre
sponsor: Spanish Everest without Oxygen 2012 Spring (Ferran Lattore)
approach: Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2012-04-17
smtdate: 2012-04-29
termdate: 2012-05-31
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to rescue of Dawa Sherpa who was with Ecuadorian expedition led by Tisalema
campsites: BC(17/04,5100m),C1(28/04,7000m),C2(28/05,7700m),C3(29/04,8300m),xxx(29/04,8300m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  The Latorre team planned to go to summit on 30 May and was at C2 on 28 May. The team came to know about sick Dawa who was with Tisalema at C3. The Latorre team went to C3 with Ritemba on 29 May where Ritemba who reached around 9 am and Latorre and Orviz reached there around 11 am. Ritemba brought down sick Dawa to ABC same day. Later Latorre and Orviz followed Ritemba to ABC.

  Sherpa:
    Ritemba Sherpa, 8/5/1970, Yaphu-9, Makalu, Everest X2


expid: EVER12126
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Ecuador
leaders: Patricio Tisalema
sponsor: Everest in One Day
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2012-05-08
smtdate: 2012-05-28
termdate: 2012-06-01
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to sickness of Dawa Sherpa
campsites: BC(08/05,5200m),ABC(11/05,6350m),C1(16/05,7100m),C2(20/05,7700m),C3(28/05,8300m),xxx(28/05,8300m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Tisalema's plan was to climb Everest in one day. Accordingly, he started his summit bid from ABC on 28 May and got to C3. He left ABC at 6 am and reached C3 at 7:50 pm NST. Martinez and Dawa was already there on 28 May. Their plan was to leave C3 at 10 pm for summit. Everything was Ok until the time of getting off rom C3. Dawa said that he was ready to move and started putting on crampons and came out of tent then he felt that he was feeling dizzy and started vomiting. He went inside the tent and collapsed. Tisalema said he gave Dawa medicines and put him on oxygen. The Latorre (Spanish) team planned to go to summit on 30 May and was at C2 on 28 May. The team came to know about sick Dawa who was with Tisalema at C3. Latorre team went to C3 with Ritemba on 29 May where Ritemba brought down sick Dawa to ABC same day. Later Latorre and Orviz followed Ritemba to ABC. Dawa brought to Kathmandu on 1 June and admitted to Norvic Hospital. Tisalema said that the cause of Dawa's sickness was due to block in artery of right side of the brain.

  Sherpa:
    Dawa Sherpa, Ropesa, Makalu-5, 28/4/75


expid: GAUG11201
peakid: GAUG
year: 2011
route1: NW Face
nation: Belgium
leaders: Jean-Pierre Hoa
ascent1: 5th?
bcdate: 2011-08-11
smtdate: 2011-08-12
smttime: 1215
termdate: 2011-08-13
campsites: BC(11/08,5315m),Smt(12/08)
agency: Glacier Safari Treks
routememo:
  Hoa left BC with Babulal and Basant at 6:45 am and go to the top at 11:45 am. They stayed on summit for 30 minutes, then went down to BC. Weather in the morning was very cold and lots of snow. By 10 am it was clear, but bit cloudy.


  Jean-Pierre Hoa - 1 June 2013

  We reached Damodar Kunda on August 10 at 13:00 pm.
  On August 11, we started at 7:30 am and reached Gaugiri base camp at 14:30 pm.
  On August 12, we started at 6:45 am and reached Gaugiri peak at 12:15 pm
  We were back at Gaugiri base camp on August 12 at 14:15 pm.

  Gaugiri base camp is 5315m.
  Gaugiri peak is 6110m.


expid: JANU12101
peakid: JANU
year: 2012
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Koji Takeda
sponsor: Team Khumbakarna Expedition 2012 to Jannu
approach: See route notes
bcdate: 2012-04-16
smtdate: 2012-05-15
termdate: 2012-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to difficult route (icewall 30m tall)
campsites: BC(16/04,4500m),ABC(22/04,4800m),C1(26/04,5200m),C2(07/05,5800m),C3(15/05,6200m),xxx(15/05,6200m)
agency: Nomad Nepal Treks
routememo:
  Approach: Flight to Biratnagar, by road to Phidim->Taplejung->Mitlung->Chiruwa-> Sekathum->Amjilasa->Ghunsa->BC

  On 15 May which was suppose to be summit day the team encountered 30m icewall which was difficult to tackle with. So the team gave up their summit bid. The weather condition was windy, cloudy and snowy, but it was good on 15 May.

  Ito went up to 6000m on 13 May together with Sasaki and Takeda. On their return they were stuck in Taplejung for five days due to general strike.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Sherpa, (2034/4/17) 1/8/77, Taksindu-5
    Lhakpa Tsering Sherpa, 2043/9/10, 25/12/86, Khumjung-2
    Nurbu Tamang, (2034/10/25) 7/2/78, Taksindu-3


expid: KANG12102
peakid: KANG
year: 2012
route1: SW Face
nation: USA
leaders: David Abramczyk (Abramski)
sponsor: American on Kangchenjunga
bcdate: 2012-04-20
smtdate: 2012-05-19
termdate: 2012-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to exhaustion and lateness in the day
campsites: BC(20/04,5500m),C1(25/04,6200m),C2(29/04,6400m),C3(17/05,7100m),C4(18/05,7600m),xxx(19/05,8100m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  20 Apr  5500m
  C1  25 Apr  6200m
  C2  29 Apr  6400m
  C3  17 May  7100m
  C4  18 May  7600m
  HPt 19 May  8100m by Abramski.

  Abramski had been on trying to climb the mountain without Sherpa support but realised that it was too hard for him. On his summit attempt he left C4 at 7 pm on 18 May. Snow conditions were good. Weather was clear. He was climbing with a Taiwanese climber, Hsiao-Shih Lee. His goggles were frozen and he had a fever, which slowed him at one stage and he was left alone. When he reached 8100m at 6 am, he thought it was already too late to carry on and decided to turn back. He descended to C4 where he arrived at 7:30 am. He slept for a few hours until noon, packed up and left to go down to C3.

  On his descent a snowstorm started and he got slightly lost. He started shouting and the Chilean team, led by Luis Alvarez, found him and helped him down to C3, where they arrived about 8 pm. Abramski was very tired. On 20 May he descended to BC. He left C3 at 11 am and reached BC at 11 pm. He was breaking down his camps on the descent.

  He left BC on 21 May together with the Chilean team, who walked all the way to Ramche. Abramski lay down on the glacier at about 5000m at about 10 pm to sleep for six hours. He carried on when the sun rose and walked to Ramche.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C4 to high point to C4.


expid: KANG12103
peakid: KANG
year: 2012
route1: SW Face
nation: Chile
leaders: Luis Alvarez
sponsor: Chile Al Kangchenjunga 2012
bcdate: 2012-04-19
smtdate: 2012-05-18
smttime: 0830
termnote: Abandoned at 8400m due to too late in the day
campsites: BC(19/04,5400m),C1(25/04,6200m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(15/05,7100m),C4(16/05,7600m),xxx(18/05,8400m)
accidents: Fall by Sepulveda and Alvarez
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  19 Apr  5400m
  C1  25 Apr  6200m
  C2  26 Apr  6400m
  C3  15 May  7100m
  C4  16 May  7600m
  HPt 18 May  8400m by Alvarez, Rodney, Sepulveda at 8:30 am.

  High point team left C4 at 8:20 pm on 17 May. It was very windy, so they decided to stay an extra night at C4. Conditions on the mountain were good, however, they were very slow and when they reached their high point at 8400m they thought it was too late and turned back. They returned to C4, where they arrived at 10 pm. They stopped at their deposit camp at 8100m to collect their things. They descended to the left hand side whereas they had ascended on the right.

  On 19 May they helped an American climber, David Abramski, at about 7400m, who had turned back from his summit attempt. Abramski was very tired and possibly suffered from HAPE and was lost. They descended with him to C3, where they arrived at 8 pm. On 20 May they left for BC at 8 am. They arrived at C2 at 4 pm at BC at midnight. On their way down they broke down all their camps.

  Koller reached 6500m on 4 May. He was in pain as he had a pulled muscle in his left calf during the walk-in. He abandoned the expedition and stayed at BC for the rest of the expedition.

  Retamal stayed at BC. He was the expedition doctor and never intended to climb.

  Torres reached C2 on 20 May to help the team to pack up. He had been suffering from sinusitis for the whole expedition and never left BC before he ascended to C2 to help the team break down the camp on 20 May. He did not sleep at C2.

  On 21 May they left BC and walked all the way to Ramche, which took them between 15 hours and 22 hours.

  Accident:

  At an altitude of about 6700m, Sepulveda fell on the fixed rope and pulled out the anchor and dragged Alvarez with him. They fell for about 5m to 8m respectively. Alvarez bruised a rib.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


expid: KANG12104
peakid: KANG
year: 2012
route1: SW Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Nives Meroi
sponsor: Kangchenjunga 2012
ascent1: 95th
countries: Romania, Slovakia, Spain
bcdate: 2012-04-19
smtdate: 2012-05-17
smttime: 1420
termdate: 2012-05-21
campsites: BC(19/04,5400m),C2A(24/04,6200m),C2B(25/04,6590m),C3(08/05,7100m),C5(16/05,7600m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C2 low at lower C2
  C2 high at permanent C2.

  On 19 April, the team arrived at BC, which they pitched at 5400m at the normal site for climbing the SW Face. On the 22nd, all went up to 6200m to survey the route ahead and to judge how much rope they would need to fix. They returned to BC the same day.

  In their descent, the two Spaniards, Egocheaga and Ramos, started a snow slide and were carried about 50 meters down with it. Both received rope burns from arresting their fall: Ramos got only slight burns, but Egocheaga was seriously burned and had to be helped down to BC. On the next day, the 23rd, he and Ramos flew by helicopter to Kathmandu, where Egocheaga was hospitalized for a few days before they went home.

  One of the Romanian members, Valean, had never been on an expedition before. He was too slow and lagged behind the others, all of whom were highly experienced. He managed to get to C2 but no higher and left the team on 15 May.

  Thus there were just four high-altitude climbers, Benet, Hamor, Colibasanu and Meroi, to go very high and to try for the summit. On 24 April, the four moved up from BC to their low C2 at 6200m just above a plateau and before the route began to get steep. The next day they moved their low C2 up to 6590m (this became C2's permanent site) and then returned to BC.

  On 30 April they started up from BC and occupied high C2. The following day, they climbed to 7000m and slept there. They had to work hard to carry everything they needed without the help of Sherpas and to fix rope along the route over six barriers, one of which was overhanging. On 2 May, after fixing rope to 7000m they returned to BC for a rest.

  The four members on 7 May again moved up from BC to C2 at 6590m and one the 8th established C3 at 7100m. On the 9th, the weather was bad with snowfall, wind and fog. They stayed one more night in C3, but the snow kept falling and on the 10th the descended to BC. Finally up once more from BC to C2 on 14 May and to C3 on the 15th. On the 16th, they made C4 at 7600m at the high end of the Great Shelf.

  The weather on 17 May was perfectly clear with no fog, and from C4 the four climbers searched for a good route to the top. Hamor liked the looks of a couloir and decided to try that line. He made the correct choice and found himself on the summit at 2:20 pm. He returned to C4 at 6:15 pm.

  The other three, Benet, Colibasanu and Meroi, were not so lucky or so wise. At 10:30 am, when they were at 8450m, they realized that they were heading for the wrong summit, the middle summit instead of Hamor's main summit. They were now tired, and it was too late to change course and go for the highest summit; they returned to C4. Furthermore, they were too discouraged to try later for the main summit; they had no motivation to make another attempt to find it. The weather forecast was for clouds and strong wind. The three decided that day that their climb was over.

  Ten days later in Kathmandu, when telling about their mistake, Meroi couldn't stop laughing, and her laughter infected everyone else, other members and an interviewer. It was all a big joke. No one suggested that none of the four had done adequate homework about the final route.


expid: LHOT12105
peakid: LHOT
year: 2012
route1: W Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Oh Young-Hoon
sponsor: Everest Expedition CALS Alpine Club
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2012-04-13
smtdate: 2012-05-19
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2012-05-22
othersmts: Climbed Everest (EVER-121-56)
campsites: BC(13/04,5350m),C1(16/04,6100m),C2(24/04,6500m),C3(28/04,7200m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
primid: EVER12156
routememo:
  Summit on 19 May by Yoo and Mingma at 9.30 am.

  Yoo and Mingma left C4 at 10 pm on 18 May. Mingma and another Sherpa were fixing the rope as they were going along one the upper part of the colouir. Some of the time they had to use the old rope. They stayed about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 6 pm. The following day he descended to C3 and reunited with Oh and Seo from their joint Everest expedition.

  On 21 May everybody descended to BC and on 22 May they left for Kathmandu by helicopter.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used by Yoo and Mingma from C3 to top to C3.

  Sherpas:
    Mingma Thinduk, Nurbugaon, Makalu Barun 22/9/1980, Everest X2, Lhotse X1


expid: LHOT12106
peakid: LHOT
year: 2012
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Ryan Waters
sponsor: Waters to Dhaulagiri & Lhotse
countries: Norway
bcdate: 2012-05-12
smtdate: 2012-05-25
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2012-05-27
othersmts: Attempted Dhaulagiri (DHA1-121-06)
campsites: BC(12/05,5350m),C1(16/05,6400m),C3(18/05,7300m),C4(24/05,7800m),Smt(25/05)
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  Summit on 25 May by Skog, Waters at 10 am.

  Team left C4 at 4:30 am. Indian army team was ahead of them. They experienced a lot of rockfall in the couloirs, but otherwise a straightforward climb. They spent 30 minutes on summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at 4 pm. On 26 May they descended to BC and left BC on 27 May and walked to Lukla.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C4 to top to C4.


expid: LHOT12107
peakid: LHOT
year: 2012
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Richard Morse
sponsor: Peak Promotion WMS Nuptse Expedition 2012
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2012-04-16
smtdate: 2012-05-24
termdate: 2012-05-25
campsites: BC(16/04,5350m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3(03/05,7200m),C4(23/05,7800m),Smt(24/05)
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  Summit on 24 May by Morse, Lhakpa Dorje and Pasang [at 8:30 am].

  Summit team left C2 at 2 am. They experienced bad rockfall in the couloirs. Morse said it was good luck that nobody else was on the route, otherwise they probably would not have gone up. Just below the summit they walked past the dead Czech, who had died the previous week. He was still clipped into the rope.

  Weather was good. They stayed in top for about 1 hour and descended to C2, where they arrived at 6 pm. On 25 May they took a helicopter from BC to Lukla and then to Kathmandu.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Morse.
    From C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Dorje, Chitre, Sotang-6, 1/10/65, Everest X6, Lhotse X1
    Pasang Sherpa, Tapting-1, Solukhumbu, 20/12/83, 1st 8000er


expid: LHOT12108
peakid: LHOT
year: 2012
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Damian Benegas
sponsor: Patagonian Brothers to Lhotse
countries: Argentina
bcdate: 2012-04-15
smtdate: 2012-05-19
smttime: 1108
termdate: 2012-05-30
campsites: BC(15/04,5350m),C1(24/04,6000m),C2(26/04,6500m),C3(08/05,7300m),C4(24/05,7800m),Smt(19,25/05)
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  Summit on 19 May by Benegas at 11:08 am
         on 25 May by Ceppi and Badino at 3:45 pm.

  Benegas never slept at C4. He started his 19 May summit attempt from C3 at 2:30 am. He met Ben Jones at Lhotse C4 (Jones had come from the South Col that morning). They were both fixing ropes in the couloirs for about 300m. They spent about 19 minutes on the summit. Benegas descended to BC where he arrived at 8 pm.

  25 May summit team left C4 at 4 am. There was a lot of rock fall in the couloirs. During the ascent Ceppi got hit by a rock which completely destroyed his helmet. He did not get hurt and carried on climbing. They spent about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 8 pm. On 26 May they descended to C2 and on 27 May back to BC. They left BC on 31 May.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Benegas.
    Ceppi and Badino did not use oxygen.


expid: LHOT12109
peakid: LHOT
year: 2012
route1: W Face
nation: UK
leaders: Ted Atkins
sponsor: Brit on Lhotse
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2012-04-20
smtdate: 2012-05-27
smttime: 0845
termdate: 2012-05-29
campsites: BC(20/04,5350m),C2(20/05,6400m),C3(25/05,7100m),C4(26/05,7800m),Smt(27/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Summit on 27 May by Atkins at 8:45 am.

  Atkins left C4 at 2 am. They were two other teams on the mountain. Straightforward climb. Atkins walked past the dead Czech climber and found it very traumatizing due to the way he had his eyes wide open.

  He spent about 20 minutes on the summit, and descended to C4, where he arrived at 10:30 am, broke down the camp and carried on to C2, where he arrived at 8 pm. On 28 May he descended to BC.

  On 29 May he ran the Everest marathon to Namche in 10 hours.

  Oxygen:
    From C3 to top to C3 by Atkins.


expid: LHOT12110
peakid: LHOT
year: 2012
route1: W Face
nation: UK
leaders: Bonita Norris
sponsor: Two to Lhotse
countries: USA
bcdate: 2012-04-15
smtdate: 2012-05-26
smttime: 0500
termdate: 2012-05-28
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(15/04,5350m),C1(20/04,6000m),C2(21/04,6400m),C3(24/05,7000m),C4(25/05,7800m),Smt(26/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Summit on 26 May by Norris, Jen, Lhakpa Wangchu, Lhakpa at 5 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 11:30 pm on 25 May. There was nobody in front of them and there was little rockfall. Straightforward climb. They walked past the body of the Czech climber who had died a few days previously. They stayed about 20 minutes on the summit. Great views at sunrise.

  They descended to C4, where they arrived at 8 am, rested for half an hour and continued to C2, where they arrived at 3 pm.

  On 27 May to BC, left BC on 28 May, walked to Lobuche and caught a helicopter back to Kathmandu.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members.
    Taken and used from C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Wangchu, Pangboche, Solukhumbu, 23/10/86, Everest X7, Manaslu X3
    Lhakpa, Kerung-3, Solukhumbu, Everest X2, Manaslu X1


expid: LHOT12111
peakid: LHOT
year: 2012
route1: W Face
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Leopold Sulovsky
sponsor: Czech Lhotse 2012
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2012-04-11
smtdate: 2012-05-19
smttime: 1930
termdate: 2012-05-23
campsites: BC(11/04,5350m),C1(15/04,6000m),C2(16/04,6400m),C3(22/04,7300m),C4(18/05,7800m),Smt(19/05)
accidents: Sedlacek never returned from summit attempt
agency: Langtang Ri Trekking
routememo:
  Summit on 19 May  by Marek at 5:30 pm; Sedlacek at 7:30 pm.

  Sedlacek, Sulovsky and Marek left C4 at 5 am. Sulovsky reached about 8200m, but turned back and descended to C3 due to an upset stomach. Marek summited at 5:30 pm and Sedlacek was way behind him. On his way down, Marek met Sedlacek 50m below the summit. Sedlacek seemed Ok, but tired. As Sedlacek had run out of water and food, Marek gave him a power bar and water, and then descended to C4, where he arrived at 8 pm.

  He waited, but Sedlacek never arrived; however he was too exhausted to go back out and look for Sedlacek. The next morning it was very windy and impossible to go back up. Marek broke down his camp and descended to C3, where he met Sulovsky. They descended to C2.

  On 21 May they descended to BC, and on 22 May they talked to some Lhotse climbers who told them that they had seen Milan's dead body. They left BC on 23 May.

  Ozanov reached C3 on 22 April on the 2nd acclimatization rotation. Sulovsky told him he could not climb further as he was a first timer, even though Ozanav thought he would have been strong enough. 

  Luptak broke his hand on the approach to BC. He was hit by a stone on his left hand and left BC on 20 April. He never got higher than BC.

  Oxygen: not taken, not used.

  Note: Sedlacek's ascent is probable, but unverified.


expid: LHOT12114
peakid: LHOT
year: 2012
route1: W Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Rolf Eberhard
sponsor: A German to Lhotse
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2012-04-21
smtdate: 2012-05-07
termdate: 2012-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to death of his mother
campsites: BC(21/04,5350m),C1(04/05,6100m),C2(06/05,6400m),xxx(07/05,6500m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Eberhard was on his first acclimatization rotation. He was due to go back to C2 on 12 May to stay there and help the Sherpa's fly the rope. He found out that his mother had died on 11 May in the morning.

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Gyalzen, 22/7/69, Thami, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X3, Manaslu X1


expid: LHOT12115
peakid: LHOT
year: 2012
route1: W Face
nation: India
leaders: Champa Younten
sponsor: Indian Army Snow Lion Lhotse Expedition 2012
countries: Nepal
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2012-04-06
smtdate: 2012-05-25
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2012-05-28
campsites: BC(06/04,5350m),C1(21/04,6000m),C2(28/04,6400m),C3(01/05,7300m),C4(24/05,7800m),Smt(25/05)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  Summit on 25 May by Champa (w/o oxygen) Dorjee Gonmo, Dorjee Kelsang, Gurung, Chechok, Palmo, Tsering (w/o oxygen), Sonam Chhiring, Nima Dorje, Dawa Rita, Pemba Chhiring at 6:30 am.

  Team left C4 at 11 pm NST on 24 May. Straightforward climb apart from seeing the Czech climber just below the summit rock. They spent about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 10 am. On 26 May they descended to C2 and on 27 May to BC.

  Seven members (both of Hada's Lhotse and Everest team) ran the Everest Marathon. Dorjee Kelsang came 2nd in foreigner's male category. Tsering Palmo came first in foreigner's female category.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Gongpo Dorjee, Dorjee Kelsang,
      Gurung, Khechok, Palmo
    Taken and used from C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas
    Not used by Champa and Dawa Tsering


expid: LHOT12116
peakid: LHOT
year: 2012
route1: W Face
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Arnold Coster
sponsor: SummitClimb Lhotse Expedition 2012
countries: Australia, Canada, Finland, Romania, UK, USA
bcdate: 2012-04-17
smtdate: 2012-05-20
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2012-05-23
othersmts: Climbed Everest EVER-121-65
campsites: BC(17/04,5300m),C1(24/04,6000m),C2(29/04,6400m),C3(04/05,7100m),C4(19/05,7800m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  C4 below couloir at the Turtle on West Face.

  The small team of intended summiters put all three of its members with two Sherpas on the top. Coster, Graeffe and McDonald along with Ang Dorje and Nawang Nuri, left C4 at midnight of 19/20 May and were on the summit at 9:00 am of the 20th.

  In their descent, Graeffe and McDonald went down to C2, where they arrived at 4:30 pm on summit day and were in BC the next day. Coster, however, stopped in C3 to help a member of his Everest expedition, Richard Maybank, whose crampons had been taken from outside his tent, making it difficult for him to descend without them.

  All members and Sherpa summiters used oxygen from C3 to the summit to C2.

  Also on the mountain were seven members of a training group. They had no permission to go to the summit and did not do so. One trainee, Ms. Maryana Plesh, did not go above BC and left two days after they had arrived. The others got to various altitudes above C2's 6400m.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Dorje, 8/9/85, Patle, Okhaldhunga, Lhotse X1
    Nawang Nuri, 15/5/79 (1/2/2036), Patle, Okhaldhunga, no 8000ers


expid: LHOT12117
peakid: LHOT
year: 2012
route1: W Face
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Adrian Ballinger
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Lhotse Expedition 2012
countries: France, Japan, Netherlands, Russia, UK, USA
bcdate: 2012-04-22
smtdate: 2012-04-23
termdate: 2012-05-07
termnote: Abandoned at BC due to unstable conditions on Lhotse face
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East on 26 and 28th April
campsites: BC(23/04,5269m),xxx(5267m)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  BC at lowest bC
  Did not go above BC (did no climbing).

  After the team arrived at BC, they went to Lobuche East for an acclimatization climb. They summited the mountain on 26 April and again on the 28th, then returned to BC on the 30th.

  At this time, the Khumbu Icefall was very unstable and the dry West Face of Lhotse, overshadowing the Western Cwm, was frequently shedding loose rock. The leader, Russell Brice, considered the conditions too dangerous and announced on 5 May that the expedition was cancelled. No one climbed above BC.


expid: LHOT12118
peakid: LHOT
year: 2012
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Scott Woolums
sponsor: Mountain Trip Lhotse 2012
countries: Poland
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2012-04-15
smtdate: 2012-05-25
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2012-05-28
campsites: BC(15/04,5350m),C1(22/04,6000m),C2(24/04,6500m),C3(23/05,7300m),C4(24/05,7800m),Smt(25/05)
accidents: Lichota got hit by ice block on shoulder
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  Summit on 25 May by Lichota and Tarke at 7 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 11 pm on 24 May. They were few other people on the route. Lichota was hit by an ice block on the left shoulder and bruised it in the couloirs on her way up. She carried on and reached the summit at 7 am. They spent about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they rested for a few hours and carried on to C2.

  They were intending to reach C2, however, Lichota got confused and descended the old route on the Lhotse face using the old rope. When she reached a point where the fixed ropes were buried in the ice and snow, she noticed that she was on the wrong route. She radioed down to BC and told Woolums, who then contacted Tarke. Tarke had gone down the correct route and had already come farther down.

  He ascended again to help Lichota and both of them went back to C3, where they spent the night.

  On 26 May they descended to C2 and 27 May  to BC. 

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Lichota
    From C4 to top to C4 by Tarke

  Sherpas:
    Tarke, Rakshi Kharka, Lokhim, Solukhumbu (1967)


expid: LHOT12119
peakid: LHOT
year: 2012
route1: W Face
nation: Romania
leaders: Alex Gavan
sponsor: Romanian to Lhotse
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2012-04-12
smtdate: 2012-05-18
termdate: 2012-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to pain in left lung
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),C1(16/04,6000m),C2(18/04,6400m),C3(01/05,7100m),xxx(18/05,7600m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  High point on 18 May at 7600m by Gavan at 4:30 pm.

  Gavan left C3 at 7:30 am. He was very slow and did not feel well. When he reached the bottom of the Yellow Band after 9 hours (far too slow), he decided to turn back as his left lung was hurting. He descended to C2 where he arrived at 8 pm.

  On 19 May he descended to BC and left BC on 20 May. He walked to Lukla in 25 hours non-stop and flew to Kathmandu on 21 May.

  He was being tested for pneumonia at CIWEC.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


expid: LHOT12120
peakid: LHOT
year: 2012
route1: W Face
nation: Canada
leaders: Domhnall O'Dochartaigh
approach: From Manaslu, by helicopter to BC
bcdate: 2012-05-16
smtdate: 2012-05-19
termdate: 2012-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 8250m due to fatigue, slowness
othersmts: Summited Manaslu (MANA-121-03)
campsites: BC(16/05,5350m),C2(17/05,6400m),C3(18/05,7300m),xxx(19/05,8250m)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  High point on 19 May 8250m by O’Dochartaigh at 1 pm.

  O'Dochartaigh left C3 on 19 May with Damian Benegas at 2 am. Good conditions. When he reached 8250m he felt that he was too tired and he had an inner feeling that the Czech team in front of him, who were also very slow, would get into trouble. He turned back at 1 pm and descended to C2, where he arrived at 5 pm. Benegas went on and reached the summit.

  On 23 May O'Dochartaigh started another summit attempt and ascended to C2, and on 24 May he went directly to C4. His second summit attempt was aborted as too many people were attempting to reach the summit that day and the rockfall was too dangerous for him. It took him eight hours from C2 to C4, but when he saw all the people there upon his arrival, he turned back to BC. The descent took four hours.

  He left BC 26 May.

  Oxygen: not taken, not used.


expid: MAKA12101
peakid: MAKA
year: 2012
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Wang Jing
sponsor: Chinese Makalu Expedition
approach: Tumlingtar
bcdate: 2012-04-14
smtdate: 2012-05-11
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2012-05-13
campsites: BC(14/04,4870m),ABC(16/04,5700m),C1(02/05,6400m),C2(03/05,6700m),C3(10/05,7400m),Smt(11/05)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  BC  14 Apr  4870m
  ABC 16 Apr  5700m
  C1  02 May  6400m
  C2  03 May  6700m
  C3  10 May  7400m
  Smt 11 May  Wang and Tashi Tshering (10 am), Yongzhong and Ang Du (11 am) 
              and Liang and Lhakpa Dendi (12"30 pm). 

  Team left C3 at 6 pm. The weather was good and the conditions on the moutain very dry, which made it difficult to climb. Wang took 18 hours to reach the summit. Liu Yong-Zhong 19 hours and Liang 20-1/2 hours. They spent about 10 minutes on the summit. They descended to C3, where Wang arrived at 1:35 pm (11 May), Yong-Zhong arrived at 10:30 pm (11 May) and Zhang Liang at 12:30 am on 12th May.

  The reason why Zhang Liang and Yong-Zhong arrived at C3 so late was that they were caught in a storm and had trouble finding the camp. Wang was about 2 hours ahead of them and the storm started about 15 minutes before she reached C3. They took almost 10 hours to get back.

  The following day everyone descended to BC on the 13 May they took a helicopter to Kathmandu.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used C3 to summit to C3 by all members.
    C4 to summit to C4 by Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Tashi Tshering (Tashi Chhiring), Khumjung, Khumbu, 8/5/1990
      Everest 21/5/2009
      Everest 22/5/2010
      Manaslu 1/10/2010

    Lhakpa Dendi, Gudel-9, Solukhumbu, 22/11/1974
      Makalu 18/5/2008 UK (David Tait)

    Angdu (Gaurishankar-3, Dolakha) 10/09/1979
      Makalu 23/05/2010 France (Alexia Zuberer)


expid: MAKA12103
peakid: MAKA
year: 2012
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Iran
leaders: Alireza Behpour
sponsor: Iranians on Makalu
approach: Tumlingtar
bcdate: 2012-04-19
smtdate: 2012-05-09
smttime: 1700
termdate: 2012-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at fore-summit
agency: Prestige Adventure
campsites:
  BC(19/04,4850m),ABC(20/04,5700m),C1(27/04,6400m),C2(28/04,6750m),C3(07/05,7400m),C4(08/05,7700m),xxx(09/05,8440)

routememo:
  BC  19 Apr  4850m
  ABC 20 Apr  5700m
  C1  27 Apr  6400m
  C2  28 Apr  6750m
  C3  07 Mar  7400m
  C4  08 Mar  7700m
  Smt 09 Mar  by Moghaddam, Mahmoud, Nima Tenzing and Lhakpa at 5 pm.

  Moghaddam, Behpour, Mahmoud, Nima Tenzing and Lhakpa left C4 at 2:30 am. Weather was snowy and a little windy and very cold, about -30 degrees. Conditions were very icy with little snow.

  Behpour reached 8050m at around 6 am. His feet were very cold and he did not feel well in his stomach, so he turned back to C4. Rest of the team carried on. The Sherpas were fixing the rope in front and the team had to wait often which is why it took them so long to get to the summit. They spent 10 minutes on the summit and descended to C4 where they arrived at 11 pm.

  On 10 May they descended to C2 to stay the night and on 11 May BC.

  Maani reached 7000m on 29 April. He had a respiratory problem and returned to BC on same day. On the summit push he reached C2, but the problem recurred and he returned to BC.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used by Mahmoud and Nima Tenzing from C4 to summit.

  Sherpas:
    Ngima Tenji, Chewewa, Waku, 31/08/84
    Lhakpa Sherpa, Makalu-9, 25/12/91, Everest X1


  Parvaneh Kazemi - 15 Feb 2015

  The Iranian team did not summit according to the Chinese climbers. [In Iran, they are credited with only reaching the fore-summit 8440m since their summit photos confirmed only the fore-summit.]


expid: MAKA12102
peakid: MAKA
year: 2012
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Iran
leaders: Mahmoud Shoaei
sponsor: Iranian Makalu 2012
approach: Tumlingtar
bcdate: 2012-04-16
smtdate: 2012-05-10
smttime: 1615
termdate: 2012-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 8420m due to too late, cold weather
campsites: BC(16/04,4870m),ABC(18/04,5700m),C2(29/04,6700m),C3(07/05,7400m),C4(08/05,7600m),xxx(10/05,8420m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  16 Apr  4870m
  ABC 18 Apr  5700m
  C2  29 Apr  6700m
  C3  07 May  7400m
  C4  08 May  7600m
  HPt 10 May  8420m by Shoaei and Lhakpa Wangel at 4:15 pm.

  Team left C4 at 2 am on 10 May. Weather was very changeable - clear, snowy and windy. Snow conditions were very good; however, they decided to turn back as it was quite late in the day. They returned to C4, where they arrived at 11:30 pm.

  Prestige Adventure and Seven Summit Treks were also on their summit push.

  On 11 May they descended to C2 and on 12 May they descended to base camp. On 13 Shoaei took a helicopter to Lukla.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C4 to high point to C4.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Ongyal (Lhakpa Wangel), Nurbugaon, Makalu-Barun, 19/8/66, 
      Everest 29/5/2004 (Dan Mazur)


expid: MANA12103
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Canada
leaders: Domhnall O'Dochartaigh
sponsor: Two Canadians to Manaslu
approach: Samagaon
bcdate: 2012-04-14
smtdate: 2012-05-11
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2012-05-13
othersmts: Attempted Lhotse (LHOT-121-20)
campsites: BC(14/04,4700m),C1(16/04,5400m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(08/05,6900m),TrueSmt(11/05)
achievment: Video confirms true summit
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Summit on 11 May by O'Dochartaigh at 2 pm.

  O'Dochartaigh left C3 at 11 pm on 10 May. The day started off very windy with clear skies; however, at midday the wind abated. Straightforward climb. He reached the true summit and maybe even a bit further than we normally reach in the post monsoon season. Guy Cotter was with him. He spent about 10 minutes on summit.

  On his ascent he met the two Iranians who have lost their friend (Naseri) and he helped them look for him for about 20 minutes. The two Iranian climbers were very tired and possibly a bit altitude sick. He gave them some dexamethasone, which made them feel better.

  Lucile got to 7600m on 11 May and turned back at around 8 am due to cold and fatigue. She was also worried that the daily wind and snow squalls would hamper my ability to return safely. She descended to C3, where she arrived at about noon and waited for O'Dochartaigh, who arrived there at about 5 pm after his summit success. They descended to BC on 12 May and flew from Samagaon to Kathmandu on 13 May.

  Oxygen: 
    Not taken, not used


expid: MANA12105
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Australia
leaders: Tony Dignan
approach: Arughat
bcdate: 2012-04-16
smtdate: 2012-05-11
termdate: 2012-05-13
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
campsites:
  BC(16/04,4700m),C1(18/04,5800m),C2(21/04,6200m),C3(09/05,6700m),C4(10/05,6900m),ForeSmt(11/05,8125m)

routememo:
  Summit on 11 May by Dignan and Siddi Lama at 1 pm.

  Team left C4 at 1 am with about 20 other people on the same summit attempt. He stopped just below the cornice at the rock tower and did not climb up the snowy ridge. He spent about 10 minutes there to take photos.

  They descended to C4 where they arrived at 8 pm. On 12 May he descended to BC and left BC on 13 May to walk to Arughat.

  Oxygen:
    Not taken, no used

  Sherpas:
    Siddhi Bahadur Tamang, 20/8/81, Dolakha, Lamabagar-5, Cho Oyu X1
      Ama Dablam 2010 Summit with FTA Ama Dablam expedition team
      Ama Dablam 2011 Summit with FTA Ama Dablam expedition team
      Cho Oyu 2011 summit with FTA Ama Dablam expedition team
      Manaslu 2011 summit with Speed Fly 8000 meter expedition team

  Allie Pepper, who also summited on 11 May, said Dignan only reached the Col.


expid: MANA12106
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Herbert Wolf
sponsor: Amical Alpin Manaslu Expedition 2012
countries: Austria
bcdate: 2012-04-25
smtdate: 2012-05-09
termdate: 2012-05-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6840m due to bad weather and lack of time
campsites: BC(25/04,4850m),C1(02/05,5730m),C2(08/05,6370m),C3(09/05,6840m),xxx(09/05,6840m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  On 14 May, the team started on their summit push from BC on 14 May and reached C2, but immediately retreated to C1 because a snowstorm had begun. The next day they descended to BC. Now the weather forecast predicted unfavorable weather for the 16th. They had no time to wait for better weather, so the climb was cancelled.

  A note about oxygen: oxygen was taken for a medical emergency. This group had no emergency, but another German team led by Luis Stitzinger did, and Wolf gave his supply to them.


expid: MANA12108
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Canada
leaders: Francois Cote
sponsor: Team Quebec to Manaslu
approach: Arughat
bcdate: 2012-04-20
smtdate: 2012-05-11
termdate: 2012-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to bad weather and wind
campsites: BC(20/04,4700m),C1(25/05,5800m),C2(06/05,6300m),C3(09/05,6900m),xxx(11/05,7100m)
agency: Mountain Treks
routememo:
  High point on 11 May at 7100m by Cote, Levesque and Tendi Sherpa at 9:30 am.

  Team left C3 at 8 am. It was sunny and windy. They reached their high point at 9:30 am. Their Sherpa Tendi (Taksindu) was very cold and was suffering from cold hands. Due to this, they turned back to C3 and thought they would try again the next day. They were intending to leave C3 at 10 pm the same night. However the weather was very bad and it was very windy. They descended to BC on 12 May at 8 am and arrived there at about 1 pm.

  The following day they left bC and walked out via the Larkya La.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken, not used

  Sherpas:
    Tendi Sherpa, Taksindu, 20 years old


expid: MANA12109
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Iran
leaders: Jafar Naseri
sponsor: Iranian Manaslu
approach: Samagaon
bcdate: 2012-04-17
smtdate: 2012-05-10
termdate: 2012-05-13
campsites: BC(17/04,4700m),C1(19/04,5700m),C2(24/04,6300m),C3(08/05,7100m),C4(09/05,7300m),Smt(10/05)
accidents: Naseri fell from 7900m and disappeared
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Summit on 10 May by Naseri and Amohammadi at 6:30 pm.

  Summit team left C4 at 6 am for their summit attempt. However, it was very cold and windy, so they turned back after one hour to C4. They were climbing with Hossein Salehi from Prestige Adventure. When they got back to their tent, they received the weather forecast from Iran, which said that the weather would improve. They left again at 9 am.

  During their climb, the weather was very clear and sunny, however, at 5 pm it turned bad. It started snowing and it got very cold and windy. They reached the summit at 6:30 pm and only spent about one minute on the summit as it was too cold. The visibility was about two meters and they used three GPS to go down.

  At about 9:30 pm at 7900m Amohammadi turned around and saw Naseri fall down on the right side of the ridge. They were not on a rope or clipped in. Both Salehi and Amohammadi were trying to look for him, but it was impossible, so they dug out a little platform and stayed the night at this very spot. The next day at 6:30 am, they started their descent to C4 where they met an Italian team led by Sergio Martini at about 7 am. Some of the Italians abandoned their summit attempt look for Naseri, but in vain.

  That night, Amohammadi and Salehi stayed at C4 in the hope that Naseri would come back. The following day they descended to base camp. On 13 May they left BC and on 14 May they took a helicopter to Kathmandu.

  The season was very difficult as there was too much snow.

  Fixed rope: 260m between C1 and C2 200m, C2 and C3 60m to C4.


expid: MANA12110
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Iran
leaders: Hossein Salehi
sponsor: An Iranian on Manaslu
approach: Samagaon
bcdate: 2012-04-18
smtdate: 2012-05-10
smttime: 1830
termdate: 2012-05-13
campsites: BC(18/04,4700m),C1(24/04,5700m),C2(03/05,6300m),C3(08/05,7100m),C4(09/05,7300m),Smt(10/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Summit on 10 May by Salehi at 6:30 pm.

  Salehi left C4 at 6 am with Naseri and Amohammadi from Seven Summit Treks. It was very cold so he turned back after one hour to C4. When they got back to their tent they received the weather forecast from Iran, which said that the weather would improve. They left again at 9 am.

  During their climb, the weather was very clear and sunny, however, at 5 pm it turned bad. It started snowing and it got very cold and windy. They reached the summit at 6:30 pm and only spent about one minute on the summit as it was too cold. The visibility was about two meters and they used three GPS to go down. 

  At about 9:30 pm at 7900m Amohammadi turned around and saw Naseri fall down on the right side of the ridge. They were not on a rope or clipped in. Both Salehi and Amohammadi were trying to look for him but it was impossible, so they dug out a little platform and stayed the night at this very spot. The next day at 6:30 am, they started their descent to C4 where they met an Italian team led by Sergio Martini at about 7 am. Some of the Italians abandoned their summit attempt to look for Naseri, but in vain.

  That night, Amohammadi and Salehi stayed at C4 in the hope that Naseri would come back. The following day they descended to base camp. On 13 May they left BC and on 14 May they took a helicopter to Kathmandu.

  Salehi had skis with him and he managed to ski down from C2 to BC once and from C1 to BC twice during his acclimatisation rotation. On summit day, he carried his skies, which were strapped to his pack, all the way to the top. As he was very tired on the summit, he gave his rucksack to Naseri, who was a very strong climber. He lost his skis with Naseri's fall; however, he was not going to ski in this bad weather.

  Oxygen: not taken, not used.

  Sherpas: None


expid: MANA12111
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Guy Cotter
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Manaslu Expedition 2012
countries: Australia, UK, USA
bcdate: 2012-04-17
smtdate: 2012-05-11
smttime: 1330
campsites: BC(17/04,4800m),C1(19/04,5600m),C2(09/05,6250m),C3(09/05,6900m),Smt(11/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  The six-member team arrived at the last place before BC, the village of Samagaon, on 10 April. But snow prevented any progress beyond; they were forced to stay there a week and got to BC only on the 17th. They moved up to C1 on the 19th, but again progress was halted by more snowfall and high avalanche danger. They returned to BC, moved up and down between BC and C1 three or four times and even descended to Samagaon.

  During this period, three members decided to leave. Todd Holt, Keith Kerr and Philip Shearman were running out of time and they felt that the bad weather wouldn't break soon. They left on 5 May. Another member, Lajos Kosztelny, had already departed with stomach trouble on 12 April, shortly after they had arrived in Samagaon.

  Finally the two remaining members, Baldry and Cotter, went back to BC from Samagaon on 6 May. On the 7th, they occupied C1 and made C2 on the 9th. On the 10th they established C3, and on the same day at 11 pm went for the top with Ang Phurba Sherpa. The three climbers were on the summit at 1:30 pm on 11 May, then returned to C3 at 9:30 pm. "It was a long day," Cotter observed. They were back in BC on the 12th.

  Baldry and Cotter had to use oxygen from C3 to their summit to C3 while Ang Phurba had used it from halfway above C3 to the summit and back to C3.

  The team's three Sherpas had fixed 4500m of rope all the way to the summit -- Cotter called it "the true summit." He asserted that this team was the first one ever to reach the true tummit: there were no signs of any fixed ropes to it. All previous teams had groups stopped at the rock wall of a false summit, a point which is actually only a few meters lower than the true one. Cotter said he knows of two members of another team went to true top also on 11 May.

  Cotter said "it was a great climb from where everyone else's ropes ended, to the true summit."

  Sherpas (True Smt):
    Ang Phurba Sherpa, 25/11/85 (10/8/2042), Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha,
      Everest X1, Manaslu X1

  Sherpas (Fore-Smt):
    Mingma Dukpa Sherpa
    Dawa Temba Sherpa, Yaphu-9
    Pemba Wangdi Sherpa, Yaphu-9
    Phur Temba Sherpa, Yaphu-9, 2046/3/10
    K. B. Thapa Magar, Magi, Okhaldhunga
    Tshering Dorje Sherpa, Chheskam
    Phurba Sherpa, Yaphu-9 [no fore-summit?]


expid: MANA12112
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Mauro Carnevali
sponsor: An Italian on Manaslu
approach: Arughat
bcdate: 2012-04-21
smtdate: 2012-05-10
termdate: 2012-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 7875m due to cold hands and fatigue
campsites: BC(21/04,4700m),C1(25/04,5800m),C2(07/05,6200m),C3(08/05,6900m),xxx(10/05,7875m)
accidents: Frostbite on right hand 2 fingers
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  High point on 10 May at 7785m by Carnevali and Kami Geljen Sherpa at 10:30 am.

  On 9 May Carnevali left C3 at 10:30 pm. He left together with Maurizion Giordani's group. The weather was cold and clear. Good snow conditions. When he reached the high point, the rope had not been fixed and his hands were very cold. He decided to turn around at 10:30 am and descended to C3. where he arrived at 4 pm.

  Carnevali noticed his frosbite on his right hand (index and third finger), but did not do anything about it at C3. On 11 May he descended to BC, where he arrived at 2 pm. The following day, Luis Stitzinger from Germany (DAV) came back from his summit attempt and gave him an injection for his frostbite. On 14 May he left BC.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from 7200m to high point to C3 by Kami Geljen and Carnevali

  Sherpa:
    Kami Geljen, Thami, Khumbu, 19/11/1973, Cho Oyu (Japan) 2000


expid: MANA12113
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Maurizio Giordani
sponsor: Italian Manaslu Expedition Spring 2012
approach: Larkya La
bcdate: 2012-04-27
smtdate: 2012-05-11
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2012-05-13
campsites: BC(27/04,4700m),C1(28/04,5300m),C2(07/05,6400m),C3(08/05,6900m),Smt(11/05)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Summit on 11 May by Valter at 2 pm.

  Paoletto, Valter, Giordani and Heltai left C3 at 11:30 pm on 10 May. Windy, but clear. Knee-deep wind pressed snow. Giordani reached 7500m, but turned back at around 8 am as he was very cold and tired. He descended to C3, where arrived at noon.

  Heltai reached 7600m and met the Iranians coming down who had just lost a friend (Jafar), who had fallen down the ridge. He helped the Iranians find their and spent about two hours, but could not find him. Afterwards the weather turned bad and he descended to C3 where he arrived at 9:30 am.

  Valter spent about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to C3, where he arrived at about 6 pm.

  Espito, Finali, Montanari and Paoletto reached C3 on 8 May. They spent one night at C3, but did not attempt the summit as they were all very tired. On 9 May they descended to BC.

  Martini reached C2 on 7 May; he had a cold and abandoned the climb.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


expid: MANA12107
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Poland
leaders: Jerzy Natkanski
sponsor: Poles on Manaslu
approach: Samagaon
bcdate: 2012-04-17
smtdate: 2012-05-17
termdate: 2012-05-19
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to being unsupported, exhaustion and deep snow
campsites: BC(17/04,4700m),C1(19/04,5800m),C2(27/04,6300m),C3(08/05,6900m),C4(16/04,7600m),xxx(17/05,7600m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  High point on 17 May at 7600m by Bargiel.

  Bargiel, Grudzien and Gawrysiak left C4 at midnight on 17 May. Weather was clear and there was a lot of snow to start with. Gawrysiak reached 7400m at about 4:30 am and Grudzien reached 7500m at about 5 am; however they were both exhausted from the hard previous days and turned back. They descended to C4, where they rested and continued to BC, where they arrived at 7 pm. 

  Bargiel was on his skis to the high point at 6:00 am and skied down all the way to BC.

  Borkowski reached 7100m on 16 May, but did not join summit attempt on 17 May due to fatigue. He waited for the others to come back from their summit attempt and they descended to BC the same day.

  Fronia reached 6500m on 28 April. He was fixing some rope from C3 but he did not join the summit attempt as he was supporting the team.

  Natkanski reached 7100m on 7 May when they deposited some gear at their high camp. As they had selected only four members to push for the summit, he was not one of them.

  Sarna and Snopczynski reached C3 on 8 May. They carried gear up but like Natkansky, they were not meant to go to the summit as they were not part of the strong group.

  Snopczynski and Sarna were also on skis and skied down from C3.


expid: MANA12104
peakid: MANA
year: 2012
route1: NE Face
nation: Poland
leaders: Piotr Tomala
sponsor: Polish Himalaya Expedition to Manaslu
approach: Arughat->Laphu Besi->Jagat->Deng->Namrung->Samagaon
bcdate: 2012-04-09
smtdate: 2012-04-27
termdate: 2012-05-02
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to bad weather and bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(09/04,4910m),C1(20/04,5700m),C2(27/04,6300m),xxx(27/04,6300m)
agency: Lhakpa Chhiri
routememo:
  Due to bad weather the team could not make its summit attempt. Members said that since their arrival to BC there was snow fall everyday 3-4 meters. Some days snowfell for 36 hours non-stop. Being a small team it was not possible to work hard in the bad snow conditions. 

  Ms Colewa's high point was 5700 C1 (IC).

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Chhiri Sherpa (Sonam), Pangboche, 17/11/74, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X1


expid: NUPT12101
peakid: NUPT
year: 2012
route1: N Pillar
nation: Austria
leaders: Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner
sponsor: Nuptse East Ridge Expedition
ascent1: 8th
countries: Germany
bcdate: 2012-04-18
smtdate: 2012-05-17
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2012-05-19
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East and Lhotse to acclimatize
campsites: BC(18/04,5200m),C2(24/04,6400m),Biv1(06/05,6850m),Biv2(16/05,7200m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Everest BC
  C2 in Western Cwm
  Biv on North Pillar
  Biv on North Pillar.

  The Nuptse team's intended route was to approach the mountain from the north and to make a new route by traversing Nuptse's East Ridge from the col between Lhotse and Nuptse westward via two peaks called Nuptse East II and Nuptse East I and finally to Nuptse's main summit.

  But first, they acclimatized on Lobuche East and spent the night of 16/17 April on its east shoulder with Richie Stihler, a German with whom Dujmovits planned to attempt Everest after Nuptse. They went back to Everest BC, which was their BC.

  From BC, they went to the bergschrund at the bottom of Nuptse's North Face to have a look at where they planned to go. What they saw was too much rockfall. They concluded their plan to climb up onto the East Ridge to traverse it had to be abandoned.

  The next day they made another acclimatization climb up Lhotse's West Face to 7100m and on 28 April descended to BC. They decided to substitute an ascent of Nuptse's North Pillar for an attempt on the East Ridge. But Dujmovits had already climbed the pillar in 1996, so he now cancelled his plan to climb Nuptse and went directly to Everest to climb it with Stihler.

  The remaining two climbers for Nuptse, Kaltenbrunner and Goettler, on 3 May moved from BC up the Western Cwm May and made their ABC for Nuptse at 6400m in the area where Everest teams make their C2. On the following day they went to the base of Nuptse's North Pillar and bivouacked there at 6850m. Early in the morning of the 5th, snow began to fall; instead of starting their climb of the pillar, they picked up all their gear and retreated to ABC. As it continued to snow and there was strong wind and avalanching was a danger, they moved down to BC and stayed there until 14 May, when they were able to return to ABC.

  On the 15th, they bivouacked again at 6850m. The next day they moved their "camp"  which was actually a small tent, to 7250m up on the pillar. At 6:15 am on 17 May, they left their second bivouac and in fine weather climbed the rest of the pillar, which end at the main summit of Nuptse, 7855m high; they were on the top at 1:00 pm.

  The pillar was mostly covered with snow, but there were some areas of blue ice and exposed rock. They changed leads several times as they went up the pillar; they fixed no rope, but used ice screws. They were back in their second bivouac at 4:30 pm and spent the night there. On the 18th they were down in BC.


expid: NUPT12102
peakid: NUPT
year: 2012
route1: N Face
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Nuptse Expedition 2012
countries: China, France, Germany, UK, USA
bcdate: 2012-04-23
termdate: 2012-05-07
termnote: Did not go above BC (did no climbing)
campsites: BC(23/04,5267m)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  After the team arrived at BC, they went to Lobuche East for an acclimatization climb. They summited the mountain on 26 April and again on the 28th, then returned to BC on the 30th.

  At this time, the Khumbu Icefall was very unstable and the dry West Face of Lhotse, overshadowing the Western Cwm, was frequently shedding loose rock. The leader, Russell Brice, considered the conditions too dangerous and announced on 5 May that the expedition was cancelled. No one climbed above BC.


expid: SHEY12201
peakid: SHEY
year: 2012
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Satoru Tsunoda
sponsor: Doyou Mountain Club Expedition to Shey Shikhar
approach: Nepalgunj->Juphal->Dunai->Chepra->Samduna->Doja
bcdate: 2012-06-17
smtdate: 2012-06-25
termdate: 2012-06-28
termnote: Abandoned at 5700m due to falling rock
campsites: BC(17/06,4400m),ABC(22/06,5200m),xxx(25/06,5700m)
agency: Bochi Bochi Treks
routememo:
  The expedition team started with three Gurungs at 8 am from ABC on 25 June for summit. The team reached 5700m at 1 pm. It was a foggy day. The climbing route was rocky and steep. Falling rock made climbing dangerous then the team gave up to go to summit and turned around to BC.

  Hired:
    Bibas Gurung, 6/6/88, Hatiya-1, Makalu
    Man Bahadur Gurung, 24/4/64, Sitalpati, Khanbari
    Ramesh Gurung, (15/3/2045) 29/6/88, Hatiya-7


expid: CHOY12109
peakid: CHOY
year: 2012
route1: NW side
nation: Russia
leaders: Oleg Polyakov
countries: Switzerland
smtdate: 2012-05-06
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to bad weather and lateness in they day
campsites: BC,ABC,C1(6400m),C2,C3(7400m),xxx(06/05,8100m)
agency: Himalayan Glacier Trekking
routememo:
  Polyakov and Benovici did all the climbing. Veniamin But went to ABC with Polyakov and Benovici and tried to go to C1, but his badly swollen feet prevented his getting there, and he left the expedition on 2 May.

  The team established the normal set of high altitude camps above ABC. Benovici was not an experienced climber: he did not know how to jumar, and he wore no goggles. He developed serious eye trouble (perhaps it was snowblindness). So Polyakov was the only member to occupy the last camp, C3 at 7400m, and it was he, with Pemba Gombu, who set out for the summit.

  They left C3 at 3 am on 6 May. They reached 8100m in unfavourable weather: it was windy and snow was falling as they moved up slowly. It took them 12 hours to reach the altitude; now it was too late to get to the top and back to their camp safely. They retreated to C2 that night. They descended to C1 on the 7th, returned to ABC on the 8th, and left ABC directly for Tingri village on the 10th.

  Benovici was the only person to use oxygen. He was on it between C2 and C3. Polyakov did not use oxygen at any time.

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Gombu, 14/12/1965 (29/8/2022), Kurima, no 8000ers


expid: CHOY12104
peakid: CHOY
year: 2012
route1: NW side
nation: Russia
leaders: Andrey Puchinin
sponsor: Two to Cho Oyu
countries: Kyrgyz Republic
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2012-04-22
smtdate: 2012-05-07
smttime: 1115
termdate: 2012-05-12
campsites: BC(22/04,5000m),ABC(23/04,5700m),C1(24/04,6300m),C2(28/04,7150m),Smt(07/05)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  BC  20 Apr  5000m
  ABC 23 Apr  5700m
  C1  24 Apr  6400m
  C2  28 Apr  7150m
  Smt 07 May  by Seliverstov and Puchinin at 1:30 pm.

  Team left C2 at 2:30 am (CST). Straightforward climb. Summited at 1:30 pm (CST). They spent about 30 minutes on the summit. On the descent they stayed at C2, where they arrived at 4:30 pm. The next day they descended to ABC.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


expid: LHOT12121
peakid: LHOT
year: 2012
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Conrad Anker
sponsor: North Face Everest Expedition 2012
bcdate: 2012-04-01
smtdate: 2012-05-26
smttime: 0500
termdate: 2012-05-28
othersmts: Climbed Everest (EVER-121-60)
campsites: BC(01/04,5250m),C1(04/04,6100m),C2(16/04,6400m),C3(13/05,7150m),C4(24/05,7800m),Smt(26/05)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
primid: EVER12160
routememo:
  On Lhotse, Erickson and O'Neill went directly from Everest C4 at the South Col to Lhotse's C4 at about 7800m (below the couloir) on the 25th, slept there that night and summited Lhotse early in the next morning (26 May). No Sherpa accompanied them.

  They used oxygen from the South Col to the summit of Lhotse and down to C2. (They had already been using it on Everest in C4 to the top of Everest and back to C4).


expid: LHOT12122
peakid: LHOT
year: 2012
route1: W Face
nation: Iran
leaders: Parvaneh Kazemi
sponsor: First Iranian Independent Women's Everest & Lhotse Expedition
bcdate: 2012-04-05
smtdate: 2012-05-25
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2012-05-28
othersmts: Climbed Everest on 18 May (EVER-121-48)
campsites: BC(05/04,5300m),C1(09/04,6100m),C2(18/04,6400m),C3(28/04,7200m),C4(24/05,7900m),Smt(25/05)
achievment: 1st Iranian woman to summit both Everest and Lhotse in the same season
agency: Prestige Adventure
primid: EVER12148
routememo:
  Ms. Kazemi and Nima Gyalzen left C4 for Everest's summit at 1:00 am on 18 May. They followed behind the rope fixers from American expedition to the top.

  They returned to Everest C4 on the South Col for that night and next day, the 19th, they moved to C4 at 7800m on Lhotse's West Face. The weather changed that night, it was windy and snow fell all night, so on the 20th they descended to C2 in the Western Cwm and stayed there until the 24th, when they returned to their Lhotse C4 at 7800m.

  On 25 May, they left C4 at 1:00 am and reached Lhotse's summit at 7:00 am after Indians fixed rope to the top. The weather was clear with only a light wind.

  But Lhotse was very dangerous from frequent rockfall. On her way to the summit, at 5:30 am, Ms Parvaneh was hit on the cheek by a small rock that was falling fast and caused her cheek to bleed, but nevertheless she managed to summit and descend to C2 at 1:30 pm.

  She was back in BC on the 26th, left BC on the 28th, and was stuck at Lukla for three days before she could get a plane seat to return to Kathmandu on 2 June.

  Ms. Kazemi is the first Iranian woman to summit both Everest and Lhotse in the same season.

  Sherpa:
    Nima Gyalzen Sherpa, 9/8/85, Beding, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X2, Manaslu X3


expid: LHOT12123
peakid: LHOT
year: 2012
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Garrett Madison
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Lhotse Expedition 2012
countries: Australia
bcdate: 2012-04-13
smtdate: 2012-05-21
smttime: 1540
termdate: 2012-05-23
othersmts: Climbed Everest (EVER-121-69)
campsites: BC(13/04,5500m),C1(20/04,6000m),C2(22/04,6500m),C3(17/05,7300m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
primid: EVER12169
routememo:
  Lhotse saw two members of the AAI Everest expedition, Hester and Murphy, go to its summit. Murphy did not go to the top of Everest, but stayed in C4 at 7900m while Hester did on 20 May. The next day, they moved down onto the West Face of Lhotse at the point where the routes to the summits of Everest and Lhotse diverge (at perhaps, 7300m), and from there climbed the remainder of Lhotse's West Face to its summit. They began the day's climb at 7:30 am, were on the summit at 3:40 pm, and were down in C2 in the Western Cwm (6500m) at 10:00 pm.


  Marc Hester - 9 Oct 2014

  Marc Hester states in an email to Roy Wells (potential Australian double-summiter) that he did not complete the ascent of Lhotse.

  Marc Hester - 12 Oct 2014

  Marc Hester states in an email to Richard Salisbury that he never intended to climb Lhotse.


expid: EVER12101
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Pertemba Sherpa, Asian Trekking Staff
sponsor: Asian Trekking Eco-Everest Expedition 2012
countries: Bosnia-Herzegovina, Canada, Czech Republic, Denmark, Georgia, Germany, India, USA
bcdate: 2012-04-13
smtdate: 2012-05-19
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2012-05-29
campsites: Smt(19,26/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  The Asian Trekking Eco Everest expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-4 climbers each). Asian Trekking provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Naim Logic (USA/Bosnia-Herzegovina)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(17/04,5350m),C1(23/04,6000m),C2(24/04,6500m),C3(17/05,7300m),
         C4(18/05,8000m),Smt(19/05)
  Left:  22/05/2012
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success

  Summit team left C4 at 9:15 pm. The crowds were bad and progress was slow. They stayed about 20 minutes on the summit. On his way down he bumped into Dr. Eberhard Schaaf, the German who later died. Schaaf was on his way up and seemed Ok.

  Logic had to wait for about two hours at the Hillary Step. On his way down below the balcony, Logic was hit by a large rock into his ribs. He managed to stop it but he thinks he broke a rib. Arita was also hit and hurt his knee.

  They descended to C4 where they arrived at 4:30 pm. On 21 May they descended to C2 and the following day BC. He left BC on 22 May and walked to Lukla.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C2 to top and to 6800m by Logic.
    Taken and used from C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Arita, Thami, 1959
    Nima Kancha, Khumjung, Khumbu, 15/5/1980


  Randolph Allen (USA)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(18/04,5350m),C1(25/04,6130m),C2(26/04,6470m),xxx(26/04,6470m)
  Left:  20/05/2012
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 6470m due to family sickness

  Allen and Pasang Namgyal did their first acclimatization rotation when they reached C2. Afterwards they descended to Pheriche to recover. When he got back to BC he found that his mother was diagnosed with cancer [and returned home].

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Namgyal, Khumjung, 25/11/72


  Carsten Pedersen (Denmark)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(28/04,5350m),xxx(07/05,6000m)
  Left:  11/05/2012
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 6000m due to bad conditions on mountain

  Team left BC at 5:30 on 7 May. They were going through Icefall to reach 6000m and were not intending to stay at C1. Pedersen based his decision to leave on Brice's decision to cancel his expedition. 

  Pedersen had started from Lukla on 6 April. He felt very sick with flu and flew by  helicopter out of Lobuche on 14 April. He flew to Kathmandu and stayed there for 12 days in Hotel Malla. On 26 April he flew to Lukla, trekked to Namche and helicoptered to BC on 28 April.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Rita, Yilajung, Khumbu, 17/7/74, Everest X8


  Vit Morava (Canada)
  Jan Morava (Czech Republic)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(16/04,5350m),C1(30/04,6000m),C2(05/05,6500m),C3(06/05,7000m),
         C4(18/05,8000m),Smt(19/05)
  Left:  23/05/2012
  Hired: 3
  Term:  Success

  Summit on 19 May by Jan and Vit Morava, Naga, Pasang Tharke	and Pasang Rita at 11.35 am.

  Team left C4 at 8:30 pm on 18 May. The progress was slow about 1-1/2 hour wait at the Hillary Step. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit. They descended to C4 where they arrived at 7 pm. On 20 May they descended to C2 and 21 May.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members.
    From C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Nanda Dorje (Naga Dorje, Nanga), Khumjung, 30/12/1966, Everest X3, Lhotse X1,
      Cho Oyu X3
    Pasang Rita, Thamo, 1/7/77, Everest X5
    Pasang Tharke, Thyangmoche (Thami), Khumbu, 23/7/1971, Everest X5


  Paul Thelen (Germany)
  Eberhard Schaaf (Germany)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(13/04,5350m),C1(24/04,6000m),C2(25/04,6500m),C3(07/05,7100m),
         C4(18/05,8000m),Smt(19/05)
  Left:  22/05/2012
  Hired: 3
  Term:  Success

  Summit on 19 May by Schaaf, Pemba Tshering, Pasang Temba at 11:05 am.

  On 18 May Thelen and Schaaf ascended to C4. Thelen was too tired to leave the same night so he decided not to go, but try for the summit on 20 May. The summit team left C4 at 8:30 pm on 18 May. According to Pemba Tshering, Schaaf was already a bit confused on his way up. He did not follow Pemba's order anymore and was talking to him in German. After they had reached the summit, they stayed for about an hour. Schaaf took off his oxygen mask quite frequently up there.

  On the descent (Pasang Temba had gone ahead), Pemba and Schaaf were stuck for a long time at the Hillary Step, which Thelen thinks could have exacerbated Schaaf's oncoming HACE. When they had descended the Hillary Step, Schaaf had gone blind and all of a sudden he threw his body back and collapsed. Pemba thought he was first unconscious and then died at about 3 pm. While Pemba descended to C4, base camp manager Dawa Steven sent more Sherpas to retrieve the body, but it was too windy and they turned back.

  On 20 May Thelen, Karsang (Thelen's Sherpa) and Pemba descended to C2, from where Thelen rang Schaaf's family to tell them about the death. On 21 May they descended to BC and on 22 May left BC.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C2 to top to Hillary Step (point of death) by Schaaf.
    From C3 to top to C4 by Pemba.
    From C2 to C4 to C3 by Thelen and Karsang Sherpa.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Tshering (Maila), Khumjung, 06/08/86
    Pasang Temba, Thami, 27/01/1970, Everest X4
    Karsang, Pare, Namche-8, 29/5/1963, Everest X1


  William Burke (USA)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(13/04,5350m),C1(20/04,6000m),C2(21/04,6400m),xxx(22/04,6700m)
  Left:  08/05/2012
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 6700m due to Brice cancelling, wanted to go to North

  Burke went to the bergschrund on acclimation rotation. When he heard about Brice's decision to pull out, he abandoned his climb as he still wanted to go to north side. 

  Sherpa:
    Gyaluk Sherpa, 5/1/2032, Patle-5, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1, Manaslu X1


  Nandini Cholaraju (India)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(12/04,5350m),C1(24/04,6000m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(24/05,7300m),
         C4(25/05,8000m),xxx(25/05)
  Left:  28/05/2012
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 8000m due to agency did not let her go to summit (said she 
         was too slow)

  Cholaraju took about 9-1/2 hours from C3 to C4. She arrived at C4 at 3 pm. Ang Phurba and she got ready to leave for the summit at 8 pm, however, the base camp manager (Dawa Steven) told her that she could not go as she had been too slow. According to Dawa Steven she also took nine hours from BC to C2.

  Cholaraju was very upset about and it was checking with other agencies whether they had a Sherpa for her but could not find anyone. She was very unhappy about this decision as she thought that it had been unfair and that she had been well and fit enough.

  She stayed at C4 until the next morning and descended to C2 on 26 May.

  She descended to BC 27 May. She did not talk to anybody there, packed her bags and left BC the following day, 28 May.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C2 to C4 to C2 by Cholaraju.
    Ang Phurba did not use oxygen.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Phurba, Namche, Khumbu, 1/12/90 (2047/8/15), no 8000ers


  Loveraj Dharmshaktu (India)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(17/04,5350m),C1(24/04,6000m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(06/05,7300m),
         C4(25/05,8000m),Smt(26/05)
  Left:  29/05/2012
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success

  Summit on 26 May by Dharmshaktu, Tenzing Dorje, Samden Bhote at 4:40 am.

  Team left C6 at 8 pm. Weather was good and completely calm. There were about 100 people on the slopes. Straightforward climb. They spent about one hour on the summit.

  Dharmshaktu descended to C2, where he arrived at 3 pm. On 27 May they descended to BC. On 29 May he left BC.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C3 to C3 by Dharmshaktu.
    C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Samden (Sonam) Bhote, Hungung, Sankhuwasabha 25/7/1979, Everest X1
    Tenzing Dorje, Phortse, Khumbu, 19/11/1970, Everest X5


  Meghlal Mahato (India)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(15/04,5350m),C1(24/04,6000m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(06/05,7300m),
         C4(25/05,8000m),Smt(26/05)
  Left:  29/05/2012
  Hired: 3
  Term:  Success

  Summit on 26 May by Singh Pal and Nawangle at 4:40 am, Mahatuo and Sonam Tshering at 6:50 am, Soren and Ngawang Kalden at 6:50 am.

  Team left at 8 pm. Weather was good. There were about 100 people on the slopes. Straightforward climb. They spent about one hour on summit.

  Pal and Soren descended to C2, where they arrived at 3 pm. Mahato went to C4, where he arrived at 1 pm. he was too tired to descend with the others. On 27 May everyone was back at BC, and on 29 May, they left BC and walked to Jiri in three days.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used by all members from C3 to top to C3.
    Taken and used by Sherpas from C4 to top to C4.

  Sherpas:
    Nawang Tenzing (Nawangle), Phortse, Khumbu, 1/2/1960, Everest X3, Lhotse X3
    Sonam Tshering, Kharikhola, Solu, 17/2/1988, Everest X1
    Ngawang Kalden, Khumjung, Khumbu, 21/5/91 (2048/2/7), 1st 8000er


  Kapil Singh (India)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(13/04,5350m),C1(24/04,6000m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(17/05,7300m),
         C4(18/05,8000m),Smt(19/05)
  Left:  23/05/2012
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success

  Summit on 19 May at 9:45 am by Singh and Nima.

  Team left C4 at 9 pm on 18 May. Straightforward climb. Many people. They spent about 25 minutes on the summit. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 5 pm. On 20 May they descended to C2. They left C4 at 5 am and arrived at C2 at 8:30 am. BC on 21 May.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Singh.
    Camp 4 to top to C4 by Nima.

  Sherpa:
    Nima Kancha, Pare, Namche-9, Khumbu, 20/4/1977, Everest X3


  Gia Tortladze (Georgia)

  Name:  Georgia Without Occupation Everest Expedition 
  Camps: BC(13/04,5200m),C1(19/04,6000m),C2(20/04,6400m),C3(17/05,7100m),
         C4(18/05,7950m),Smt(19/05)
  Left:  24/05/2012
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success

  Tortladze and Kami Tshering Sherpa started their summit push from C4 at 8 pm on 18 May. They got to the top at 10:45 am on 19 May. They stayed on summit between 15 to 20 minutes. On their descent storm started picking up and it was very bad. At around 8200m Tortladze saw ahead of him something rolling down about 60-70m and it stopped. He thought that they may be a rock fall. When he reached the place what earlier he thought was a rock that turned out to be a Polish woman climber who was crying for help. She was frantically repeating "I am dying". Tortladze calmed her down and assured her saying that everything will be Ok in Russian language. After a while two Sherpas came up to help her and one more Sherpa joined them a little later. Sherpas gave her oxygen and took her down. After that Tortladze did not meet her. Tortladze was exhausted, the weather was stormy and he ran out of oxygen. He remained there sleeping. On 20 May before 6 am Tortladze heard an American climber was asking if he still alive by shaking his shoulder. Then he woke up and started moving towards C4. On the way down a little far away he was lucky to find a used oxygen cylinder which helped him to get down to C4 where he arrived at about 6 am. When he took off his down suit his chest was full of snow/ice which might have got inside his suit as the upper part of jacket covering neck was not fully zipped due to oxygen mask.

  Tortladze himself was surprised about it. He said it is unbelievable that he survived staying out in open such a long time in the storm without oxygen. Tortladze slept at C4 for three hours then continued to C2 and slept there. Next day 21 May he got to BC.

  Sherpa:
    Kami Tshering Sherpa (father Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa), (23/11/2043) 7/3/1987, 
      Khunde, Khumbu, Everest X2


  Eco Everest Expedition 2012 web site notes:

  Lovraj Dharmshaktu from India with Tenzing Dorje Sherpa reached summit at 4:40 am.
  Rajendra Singh Pal from India and Nawangle Sherpa reached summit at 4:40 am.
  Meghlal Mahato from India and Sonam Tshering Sherpa reached summit at 6:50 am.
  Binita Soren from India and Kalden Sherpa reached summit at 6:50 am.

  Eco Everest: 4 members and 4 high altitude climbing Sherpas summited summited on 26th May 2012.


  Kapil from India summited at 9:45 am with Nima Kancha Sherpa.
  Sirdar Naga Dorje Sherpa summited at 9:45 am.
  Naim Logic from Bosnia-Herzegovina summited at 9:55 am with Nima Kanchha Sherpa
    and Arita Sherpa.
  Gia Tortladze summited at 11:05a m with Kami Tshering Sherpa. 
  Eberhard Schaaf summited at 11:05 am with Pasang Temba and Pemba Sherpa.
  Jan Morava summited at 1 pm with Pasang Tharke Sherpa.
  Vit Morava summited at 1 pm with Pasang Rita Sherpa.

  Eco Everest: 6 Clients and 9 high altitude Sherpas summited on 19 May 2012.


