# exped

expid: CHOY06359
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Norway
leaders: Inge Meloy
sponsor: Hvitserk Cho Oyu Expedition 2006
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-03
smtdate: 2006-10-01
smttime: 1111
termdate: 2006-10-05
campsites: BC(03/09,4900m),ABC(07/09,5700m),C1(13/09,6400m),C2(18/09,7150m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  Summit team left C2 at 1:10 am on 1 Oct. Weather was clear. Good views of Everest. They spent between 20 minutes and 45 minutes on the summit. On they way up they used the route put in by Brice, which veers off to the left just below C3 and rejoins the normal route just above the rock band. They descended on the normal route to C2, where they arrived between 16:15 pm and 6 pm. The next day they descended to ABC.

  Aakvik got to 7700m on summit day but turned back at 7 am due to exhaustion; returned to C2 where he waited for his fellow climbers.

  Sherpas:
    Pema Chhosang, 30/4/1972, Khumjung, Everest X1
    Dawa Temba Sherpa, 01/01/58, Tesho (near Thami), Everest 23/5/01

  Tibetans:
    Pemba from Tibet, 1/7/82?, close to Tingri (Shigatse), 
      Everest (at least once 4/6/05), Cho Oyu X1?


expid: CHOY06360
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Phil Crampton
sponsor: SummitClimb Cho Oyu Expedition 2006
countries: Australia, Finland, France, Italy, USA
approach: Members to Lhasa from Beijing, Sherpas by road from Kathmandu
bcdate: 2006-09-01
smtdate: 2006-10-01
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2006-10-05
campsites: BC(09/09),ABC(12/09,5635m),C1(17/09,6400m),C2(18/09,7110m),C3(01/10,7500m),Smt(01-03/10)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  Denamiel and Caboche left C2 2:00 am 1st Oct Chinese time for top. Caboche turned around at C3 because hands and feet getting cold at about 6 am. Denamiel went on to summit at 11:00 am and both slept in C1 that night.

  2nd Oct and 3rd Oct summit parties all got to top except Tibetan Garsang who reached summit plateau on 3rd, but not top - snow because waist deep after long storm with avalanche risk between C2 and C3 even before big storm.

  Summit party of 2 Oct, left C3 at 1:30 am, on top at 8:00 to 8:30 am and all slept in C2 except Backshall who went down to ABC to sleep. Summit party of 3 Oct left C3 at 2:30 am, on top between 11:15 and 12:00 noon, returned to C2 at 4:00, 5:00 and 8:00 pm (Marsh stopped in C3 while in his descent, so came to camp late).

  Oxygen used by only Cole and Backshall from C3 to top to C3; Hsu and J. Marsh from C3 to top to C2. 

  Tibetans: 
    Luda, Tingri, Everest 21/05/05
    Thumba, 1/10/83, Shigatse, Cho Oyu 28/9/05
    (Garsang/Gesang doesn't know DOB and home village, now is Lhasa, 1st 8000er)

  Non-summiters:

  Farmer reached C2; later climbing from C1 and C2 broke a toe in crampon accident
  Holton reached C2; got slight case of pneumonia
  Lawes reached C1; got pulmonary and cerebral edema at different times
  S. Marsh reached C1; lacked motivation to go higher
  Sexton got to ABC; left team on about 20 Sept with bad cough
  Valente reached C1, fell on moraine


  Philip Ling - 8 July 2008

  Kelsang was well and truly well up on the flat of the summit plateau. However he stopped a few minutes from where it is possible to see Everest, which is apparently the true summit. I remember quite well he told me we were on the summit, however as I still couldn't see Everest from that point I continued another 10-15 minutes alone to where I could. Phil Crampton told me later it was his first time up there and he may not have known you have to sight Everest to be considered as having reached the absolute highest point. But in my opinion he was close enough to consider it a summit.


expid: CHOY06361
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Christine Boskoff
sponsor: Mountain Madness Cho Oyu Expedition 2006
countries: Germany
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-03
smtdate: 2006-10-01
smttime: 0745
termdate: 2006-10-05
campsites: BC(03/09,4900m),ABC(07/09,5700m),C1(14/09,6400m),C2(19/09,7100m),C3(30/09,7400m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Mountain Madness
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 6 Sept at 5300m.

  Boskoff, Dalzell, Payne, Riehle and Maila left C3 at 01:15 hours (NST), summited at 07:45 hours, stayed on summit 30 minutes, descended to C2 at 15:00 hours. Next day to ABC. Clear weather but cold. The climbers had beautiful view of Everest. 

  The expedition returned to Kathmandu on Oct 6 and will leave on 8 Oct.

  "Sherpa":
    Maila Tamang, Kavre


expid: CHOY06362
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Stuart Peacock
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Cho Oyu Expedition 2006
countries: Ireland
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-02
smtdate: 2006-10-01
smttime: 0640
termdate: 2006-10-03
campsites: BC(02/09,4900m),ABC(06/09,5680m),C1(11/09,6400m),C2(19/09,7127m),C3(30/09,7500m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Davies, Griffiths, Lively, Peacock, Tebay, Bhattarai, Mingma, Nuru, Sonam and Phurba left C3 at 01:30 hours (NST) of 1 Oct. Davies, Tebay along with Bhattarai, Mingma and Sonam reached to the summit at 06:40 hours. Griffiths and Phurba summited at 07:30 hours. Lively, Peacock and Nuru summited at 08:00 hours. On an average the summiters stayed on summit about 20 minutes. All members and Sherpas descending to C2 abut 16:00 hours. Bhattarai, Mingma and Sonam descended to ABC. Next day all to ABC. Weather was very good, but cold. Summiters had beautiful view of Everest and other mountains. Peacock guessed that about 50-60 people summited on that day. Ahead of this team on summit were Russell Brice (Himex) team and many others. Behind Peacock team at least there were 20 people. All members and Bhattarai used oxygen from C3 except Peacock and Sherpas used none. 

  Boardman, Brittleton, Roger Grange and James Griffiths left ABC on 26 Sept. They may have left Kathmandu on 2 Oct. All these four went up to C2 on 19th. They were just fed up. 

  David Grange left ABC on 9 Sept; he suffered from AMS/headache. He may have left Kathmandu on 11 or 12. 

  Grouse spent a night at C1 on 18 Sept. She got homesick and left ABC on 19 with Hickey who could not cope with altitude. He was not well. They left Kathmandu on 22 Sept. 

  Murphy returned from Tingri on 2 Sept to Kathmandu as he had problem in his right leg. 

  The expedition returned to Kathmandu on 4 Oct and will leave on 7 Oct.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Anil Bhattarai, 15/5/71, Hangdewa-6, Taplejung
    Mingma Nuru Sherpa, 22-04-1969, Khumjung-7, Pangboche, Everest X4
    Nuru Wangchhu Sherpa, 18/08/77, Khumjung-7, Pangboche, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X1
    Sonam Dorje Sherpa, 18/01/86, Khumjung-7, Pangboche, Everest X1
    Phurbu Ridar Bhote, 1958, Chepuwa-4, Makalu, Everest X2, K2 X1, Cho Oyu X1

  Not on summit: 
    Kay Chun, (1-6-64), Everest X4 (1993, 1997, 2004, 2005), Cho Oyu X1 (2002)
    (aka Kai Zhong/Khetsun)

  Sherpa information from the file of Himalayan Guides except for the Tibetan (from Peacock)


expid: CHOY06363
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Norway
leaders: Geir Lysfjord
sponsor: Cho Oyu 2006 Expedition
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-11
smtdate: 2006-10-01
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2006-10-03
campsites: BC(11/09,4900m),ABC(13/09,5700m),C1(16/09,6400m),C2(30/09,7050m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Tseringma Treks
routememo:
  BC at 4900m CBC/IC on 13th at 5300m.

  Braanaas, Kinnerod, Nyquist, Dawa Chhiri, Da Chhiri and Mingma left C2 at 23:00 hours (NST) of 30 Sept. Summited at 07:00 hours of 1 Oct. Stayed on summit about two and half hours, playing golf. Very good weather, clear and no wind. Summiters had very good view of Everest and other mountains. Descended to C2 about 15:00 hours. Next day to ABC. The team was the first to reach on summit then followed by Chinese and many more other climbers.

  Anderson climbed up to 6500m on 30 Sept; he was exhausted then turn around to C2. 

  Lysfjord reached up to 6700m on 29 Sept and gave up climbing due to risk of avalanche. He had promised his family not to climb if there is risk of avalanche, so he stayed at C2. Next day went down to C1.

  Lien reached up to 6500m on 16 Sept and stopped climbing saying that he lost energy and could not go further. He left ABC on 18. 

  The team gave emergency medication to the member of Chinese expedition who fell down from the Rock band. 

  The expedition returned to Kathmandu on 4 Oct and will leave on 6th.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Dawa Chhiri Sherpa, 3/8/1971, Beding, Everest X6, Manaslu, Makalu, 
      Cho Oyu X11, Broad Peak, Lhotse, Xixa X3, Ama Dablam X3, 
      Galdhopiggen (2469m) Norway
    Da Chhiri, 19/2/78 (8/11/2034), Namche-4, Phurte
      Everst X2, Makalu, (summited Cho Oyu again from C2 on 2 Oct 06 with Japanese)
    Mingma (Dorje) Sherpa, 01-10-77, Thamo, Namche-6, Everest X2

  Non-summiters:
    AAM Tenzing Sherpa, Lamabagar VDC-3, (30 years old on 29/11/2037), Everest, 
      Cho Oyu
    Pema Chhiri Sherpa, Gaurishankar-3, Dolakha, (12/11/2043)
    Nawang Tawa (Lama) Sherpa, Gaurishankar-1, Beding (12/12/2028)


expid: CHOY06364
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Peter Roos
sponsor: 2006 Dutch Cho Oyu Expedition
countries: Belgium
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-10
smtdate: 2006-10-01
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2006-10-06
campsites: BC(10/09,5000m),ABC(13/09,5700m),C1(16/09,6100m),C2(22/09,7100m),C3(29,30/7500m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Iceland Trekking (Tendi)
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC Sept 12 at 5400m
  C1 at behind small ridge
  C3 (not used by members).

  Groeneveld, Van den Broek, Van Heumen, Van Welzen and Santa Gurung and Dawa Sherpa left C3 at 23:30 hours NST on 30 Sept. Van Heumen turned around after an hour's climb to C2 due to tiredness. Groeneveld, Van den Broek, Van Wezen, Santa Gurung and Dawa Sherpa reached to the summit at 10:00 hours of 1 October, stayed on summit for about 30 minutes, descended to C2. Next day to ABC. About 10 people summited on that day. Weather was good. Climbers had very good view of Everest and other mountains. 

  The expedition returned to Kathmandu on 7 Oct and will leave on 11 Oct.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Santa Bahadur Gurung, 23/4/59, Sunwara, Gorkha, Manaslu 19/9/97
    Dawa Sherpa, 1/11/71, Tapting, Solu


expid: CHOY06365
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Poland
leaders: Pawel Bartosz Michalski
sponsor: Poles on Cho Oyu
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-16
smtdate: 2006-10-08
smttime: 1700
termdate: 2006-10-11
campsites: BC(16/09,4800m),ABC(19/09,5600m),C1(27/09,6400m),C2(02/10,7100m),C3(06/10,7600m),Smt(08/10)
accidents: Father of Pawel (Jerzy Michalski) suffered from pneumonia
agency: South Asian Treks
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC 18 Sept at 5200m.

  P. Michalski left C3 at 08:30 hours (NST) on 08 Oct with two Slovenians, Dusan Rauter and Damjan Karnicnik, and Italian Roberto Marabotto. Michalski reached summit around 17:00 hours. He stayed at summit around 20 minutes, then descended to C3 around 21:00 hours. The Slovenians were on the summit few minutes before Michalski. Michalski wrote in his email that he convinced Marabotto to return to tent (C3) as Michalski observed influence of high altitude and exhaustion in Marabotto, who then turned around from around 7900m. The weather was pretty good, clouds at altitude of around 8000m and very strong wind on summit plateau. There were no body on the summit after Michalski. 

  Father Michalski went up to ABC (5600m) on 19 Sept. He got infection which turned into pneumonia, so he did not go higher than ABC. 

  The team (father and son) returned to Kathmandu on 12 Nov and left on 14th.


expid: CHOY06366
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Mike Grocott
sponsor: Xtreme Cho Oyu Expedition
countries: Ireland, Netherlands
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-03
smtdate: 2006-10-02
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2006-10-04
campsites: BC(03/09,4900m),ABC(11/09,5700m),C1(18/09,6300m),C2(19/09,7150m),C3(01/10,7420m),Smt(02/10)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CB/IC on 10th at 5300m.

  Doyle, Levett, Martin, Morgan, Pasang Tenzing and Phura Gyalzen Sherpa left C2 at 23:00 hours/NST on 1 Oct. Morgan, Pasang Tenzing and Phura Gyalzen Sherpa reached to the summit at 06:00 hours on 2 Oct followed by Doyle and Martin at 07:00 hours. The other members Dhillon, Grocott, Gunning, Khosravi, Montogomery, Imray, Pema Chhiring, Nima Gombu, Dawa Tenzing and Thundu left C3 at 01:50 hours on 2 Oct summited between 07:00-07:30 hours. Morgan stayed on summit about two and half hours, Grocott about two hours and rest of the members an hour and half doing their research. Pasang Tenzing took blood samples to C1. All the people on the summit at that time among them were Kenton Cool and his team, Japanese, Chinese medical team. There were more people behind the Grocott team. Weather was clear but cold and windy. The summiters had good view of Everest. Grocott said there were many prayer flags on the summit.

  Cox left ABC on 20 Sept because his wife is pregnant. He went up to C1. Probably he left Nepal on 22nd. 

  Kolfschoten climbed up to C3 on 2 Oct. She was exhausted and waited for other members at C3. She descended with other members returning from the summit to C1. 

  Levett and Van Hoogenhouck-Tulleken (Christoffer) went up to C2 on 2 Oct; they rescued down to C1 a member of Chinese medical team who fell down about 150m from rock band.

  Luery stayed at ABC as planned and left on 9 Sept. Mackenney climbed up to C1. He did not like going up. He returned to ABC and stayed there. 

  Mitchell went up to the 6900m on 30 Sept became exhausted and gave up further climbing. 

  Stroud and Wilson went up to the 6900m on 19 Sept became exhausted and gave up further climbing. 

  Van Hoogenhouch-Tulleken (Alexander) reached up to to the top of the ice cliff on 19th and got altitude effect then descended to C1. 

  The expedition team returned to Kathmandu on 5 Oct and most of them will leave on 7 Oct and leader on 14 Oct. 

  Oxygen used: Doyle, Levett, Martin, Morgan used oxygen from C2 to summit and to C3. Other members used from C3 to summit back to C3. Sherpas did not use oxygen.


expid: CHOY06367
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: S Korea
leaders: Go Mi-Sun
sponsor: Kolon Sports Challenge Team Cho Oyu Expedition 2006
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-09
smtdate: 2006-10-01
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2006-10-05
campsites: BC(09/09,4900m),ABC(13/09,5700m),C1(20/09,6400m),C2(21/09,7200m),C3(30/09,7600m),Smt(01/10)
achievment: Maybe 2nd Korean woman on Cho Oyu summit
agency: Mountain Madness
routememo:
  CBC/IC on Sept 12 at 5300m.

  Go and Ang Tshering left C3 at 02:50 hours (NST) on Oct 1, reached summit at 08:30 hours, spent about 30 minutes on summit, descended to C2 at 15:00 hours. Next day to ABC. Weather on summit day was very good clear no wind. Saw good view of Everest. There were about 15 to 20 climbers on the summit when Go reached to summit. 

  Go returned to Kathmandu on Oct 6 and will leave Nepal on Oct 10. Go will be coming for Everest in the spring of 2007.

  Sherpa:
   Ang Tshering, 22/4/80, Choplung, Everest 16/5/06


expid: CHOY06368
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Davide Arrigo
sponsor: Tuscany Cho Oyu Italian Expedition
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-10
smtdate: 2006-10-07
smttime: 1015
termdate: 2006-10-10
campsites: BC(10/09,4900m),ABC(14/09,5740m),C1(19/09,6400m),C2(23/09,7200m),Smt(07/10)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 13 at 5400m.

  Bertoncini, Botta, Giovanazzi, Humar, Salvaneschi, Tosi, Toscani and Dorje Sherpa left C2 at 02:00 hours (CST). Salvaneschi summited at 12:30 (10:15 NST). Botta and Tosi got to the summit at 14:00 hours (11:45 NST). Salvaneschi stayed on summit about 5 minutes it was very windy, then descended to C2 at about 15:30 hours. Botta and Tosi stayed on summit about 20 minutes and descended to C2 at 18:30 hours. All three members spent night at C2. Next day to ABC. Weather was clear but cold and windy. Summit view was cloudy, the summiters saw on the summit prayer flags and oxygen bottles. Two Spanish climbers were there on summit almost the same time. 

  Bertoncini reached up to 7400m, but he had stomach problem and went down to C2. Giovanazzi reached up to 7600m he felt very cold and turn around with Dorje to C2. Humar and Toscani too turned around from 7600m due to cold. 

  Leader Arrigo remained at ABC all the time. De Lorenzi went up to 6800m (about), then he left ABC on 4 Oct as he was very tired; he may have left Nepal on 6th or 7th. 

  The expedition returned to Kathmandu on 11 Oct and leave on different dates. Arrigo left for Lhasa on 12 Oct.

  Sherpa:
    Dorje, (2022 BS) Thami, Namche-9, 12 times Everest summiter


expid: CHOY06369
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Svevo Mondino
sponsor: Italian-Spanish Cho Oyu
countries: Spain
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-13
smtdate: 2006-10-01
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2006-10-07
campsites: BC(13/09,5000m),ABC(16/09,5600m),C1(20/09,6400m),C2(20/09,7200m),Smt(01/10)
accidents: Minor frostbite in right foot of Mondino; Marabotto fall
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 15 at 5300m.

  Marabotto helped by British Army expedition to return to ABC.

  Mondino left C2 at 03:00 hours (NST) of 1 October, reached summit at 14:30 hours, stayed on summit about 30 minutes, then descended to C2 at 22:30 hours. He descended to C1 on 2 October and following day to ABC. Weather was very good, clear and calm but very cold. Saw Everst and other mountains from the summit and on the summit prayer flags tied to oxygen cyclinder. Before him there were French and Slovenian climbers. Mondino said that about 80 people summited on that day. Mondino said that Camilo Lopez was with him at C1 and they climbed together to C2 where they spent the nigth in the same tent. Mondino said that Lopez was not feeling well because he had vomited several times and he could not eat... he had only few chocolates... in such health condition and without food and supplementary oxygen, Mondino thinks it was not possible for Lopez to go to summit.

  Roberto Marabotto another member of Mondino team left C3 at about 08:30 hours on 8 October. He had to turn around to C3 from about 8000m due to exhaustion. He arrived to C3 at about 19:30 hours. Marabotto shared the tent of Slovenian climbers, Rauter and Karnicnik, and Polish climbers Pawel Michalski and left C3 together for summit. Michalski wrote in his email reply that Marabotto was supposed to use tent and sleeping bag of Spanish (?) expedition but when he reached C3 on 7 October the tent was not there. Michalski also wrote that he convinced Marabotto to turn around from 7900m because he observed effect of altitude in Marabotto. Marabotto while descending from C3 to C2 he fell down and lost one of the crampons. He said Michalski gave him one of his crampons. Marabotto said he was very tired and very slow and had thought that he may not make it to ABC ever. Then, the British Army team members (James?) told Marabotto that they would help him to go down to ABC. With the help of other 3-4 people he was able to reach ABC. Marabotto said that the British climbers came to him as angels to save his life. He was deeply grateful to the British team.

  Ferrer Frisach, Spanish member of Mondino team climbed up to C1 on 26 September. He suffered from cold and did not go beyond C1.

  Mondino and Ferrer Frisach returned to Kathmandu on 9 October and trying to leave on 17 or 18th. Marabotto returned to Kathmandu on 12th and will leave on 16th.


expid: CHOY06370
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Toshio Abe
sponsor: International Cho Oyu Expedition 2006
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-05
smtdate: 2006-10-02
smttime: 0715
termdate: 2006-10-05
campsites: BC(05/09,5000m),ABC(10/09,5600m),C1(16/09,6400m),C2(30/09,7200m),C3(01/10,7700m),Smt(02/10)
agency: Taro Treks
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 8 Sept at 5300m.

  Abe, Nakayama, Nishikido, Watanabe, Dawa Chhiri, Pasang Tshering and Dawa Gyalzen left C3 at 02:00 hours (NST). Abe, Watanabe with Dawa Chhiri reached summit at 07:15 hours and Nakayama, Nishikido, Pasang Tshering and Dawa Gyalzen reached summit at 08:30 hours. Stayed at summit 30 minutes, descended to C2 between 14:00 hours to 16:00 hours. Next day to ABC. Weather was good, saw good view of Everest and other mountains. 

  The expedition team returned to Kathmandu on 7 Oct and will leave on 9 or 10 Oct.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Tshering Sherpa (10 April 1963), Beding, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X4
    Dawa Gyalzen Sherpa (27 Nov 1989), Beding, 1st 8000er
    Da Chhiri Sherpa (19 Feb 1978), Namche-4, Phurte Everest X2, Lhotse X1, Makalu X1
      (same Sherpa who had summited with Norwegian expedition led by Lysfjord
      on 1 Oct 2006; Da Chhiri went to top on 2 Oct from C2)


expid: CHOY06371
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Tomio Chiba
sponsor: Iwate Chiba Family Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-09
smtdate: 2006-09-29
termdate: 2006-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to fatigue and exhaustion
campsites: BC(09/09,4900m),ABC(13/09,5700m),C1(20/09,6400m),xxx(29/09,7000m)
agency: Himalayan Treasure
routememo:
  Tomio Chiba, Nga Temba and Da Nuru reached their high point at 4 pm (NT). They decided to turn back as Tomio was too tired. They arrived at C1 at 8:30 pm on 1 Oct. They descended to ABC.

  Junko Chiba reached C1 on 20 Sept. She abandoned climb because it was too hard for her. She ascended again to C1 on 28 Sept but stayed there whilst her father carried on 29 Sept. They descended together to ABC on 1 Oct.

  Narita was BC manager and stayed at ABC for duration of expedition.

  Sherpas:
    Nga Temba, Kharikhola, 1955 (51 years old), Everest X11
    Danuru Sherpa, Kharikhola, 1977, Everest X6


expid: CHOY06372
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Colombia
leaders: Camilo Lopez
sponsor: Cho Oyu Autumn 2006
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-17
smtdate: 2006-10-01
smttime: 0745
termdate: 2006-10-04
campsites: BC(17/09,5000m),ABC(20/09,5600m),C1(28/09,6400m),C2(29/09,7200m),Smt(01/10)
achievment: Youngest Colombian to summit Cho Oyu
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Lopez said he left C2 at 00:30 hours (NST) of 1 Oct, reached summit at 07:45 hours, stayed on summit for five minutes (said too many people who are not supposed to be there... did not like to stay any longer), descended to C2, where he had rest for two hours then went down to C1 where he arrived at about 16:00 hours before sunset. Weather was very good calm but cold.

  Lopez returned to Kathmandu on 5 October and will leave on 8th.

  Lopez while asking about the altitudes of his camps he said that he was there to climb Cho Oyu and not record its altitude. He told me that he had met Miss Hawley many times and she never asked him such questions. And asked me to respect climbers.

  The altitudes given in the On Return form are based on Italian climber Svevo Mondino who said that Lopez was with him at C1 and C2 and also went up to C3 almost together. After C3, Mondino did not see Lopez. Lopez did not mention about Mondino at all. Mondino said that when they started from C2, Lopez started vomiting just out side their tent. Mondino said that Lopez was not feeling well because he had vomited several times and he could not eat. In such health condition Mondino thinks it was not possible for Lopez to go to summit. Another Italian climber Sergio Martini said that Lopez started from C2 about an hour before him. Martini while climbing up met Lopez coming down between C2 to C3 and told Martini that he is not going to summit and going down due to vomit and stomach problem. Martini also asked me to check with Mondino who was with Lopez at C2 in the same tent.

  The expedition doctor Teofredo Esguerra of Filipino expedition said that Lopez consulted with him complaining his vomiting problem and the doctor gave him Meaoclopramide 10mg tablet to take every 6 hours to stop the vomiting. Lopez complained that the medicine did not work. Upon asking Lopez if he is taking any other medicine, he told the doctor that he he been using Cyclomax; then doctor told him that that was the reason the medicine he had given to Lopez did not work. The doctor gave Lopez an injection of Meaoclopramide (1m) on Oct 5. When Lopez told doctor that he had summited Cho Oyu, the doctor asked him how did he manage to descend? Lopez told him that he had taken Dexamethazone 8 mg on the summit for his descent.


expid: CHOY06373
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Romania
leaders: Cristian Tzecu
sponsor: Cho Oyu Romania 2006
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-05
smtdate: 2006-10-02
smttime: 1615
termdate: 2006-10-04
campsites: BC(05/09,4900m),ABC(09/09,5680m),C1(16/09,6400m),C2(27/09,7040m),Smt(02/10)
accidents: Minor frostbite in right toe of Tzecu on summit day
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 8 Sept at 5300m

  Neacsu, Tzecu and Torok left C2 at 01:45 hours NST of 2 Oct. Torok turned around from the plateau because he was exhausted (Torok had tried very hard to summit alone on 29 Sept which was his birthday, but he had to retreat from 7600m due to deep snow). Tzecu summited at 16:15 hours and stayed on summit for about 15 minutes. Neacsu reached to summit at 16:30 hours and stayed on summit for just enough time to take pictures. Both members returned to C2 about 22:00 hours. Next day Tzecu descended to ABC and Neacsu slept at C1 due to cold. Both climbers had spectacular view of Everest and other mountains. Weather was good but cold and windy. Tzecu met on summit Pavle Kozjek from Slovenia who arrived at the summit a few minutes later from other route. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 6 Oct. Neacsu and Torok will leave on 9 Oct. Tzecu is waiting for his girl friend with whom he will visit Janakpur and to Darjeeling then to India.


expid: CHOY06374
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Danilo Tic
sponsor: Slovene Cho Oyu Expedition 2006
countries: USA
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-06
smtdate: 2006-09-30
smttime: 1020
termdate: 2006-10-04
agency: Monterosa Treks
campsites:
  BC1(06/09,5000m),BC2(08/09,5300m),ABC(09/09,5600m),C1(13/09,6300m),C2(16/09,7050m),C3(29/09,7400m),Smt(30/09,01/10)

routememo:
  BC at CBC/SC on 8 Sept at 5300m.

  Debelak, Romih and Tenzing left C3 at 03:00 hours (NST) on 30 Sept, reached summit at 10:20 hours, stayed on summit for 2 hours. Debelak skied down from summit to C2 at 15:00 hours. Romih descended to C1 at 17:00 hours. Weather was windy, cloudy below 200m from summit but was clear. There were one Italian, some Polish on the summit with oxygen. The summiters had good view of Everest and other mountains. 

  Bercic and Levec left C3 at 01:00 hours on 1 Oct and summited at 09:00 hours, stayed on summit half an hour, descended to C1 around 17:00 hours. 

  Randall went up to C1 on 19 Sept and that was his limit of his strength.
  Tic climbed up to C1 on 14 Sept because he as leader had to manage other members. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 5 Oct and will leave on 9 Oct.

  Sherpas:
    Kami Sherpa, (29-6-1966), Makalu-5, Sankhuwasabha, Everest X2
    Tenzing Sherpa, (1-10-1975), Makalu-5, Sankhuwasabha, Everest X2


expid: CHOY06375
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: China
leaders: Wang Yong-Feng
sponsor: 2006 Chinese Amateurs Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 2006-09-05
smtdate: 2006-10-01
smttime: 0535
termdate: 2006-10-05
campsites: BC(05/09,4950m),ABC(08/09,5650m),C1(13/09,6050m),C2(29/09,7100m),C3(30/09,7500m),Smt(01-02/10)
accidents: Wang Feng's fall
agency: None
routememo:
  Both summit parties left C3 for top at 3:00 am (CST), on top 8:00 am (05:45 NST) and returned to ABC at 7:00-8:00 pm. Total 21 clients on top. Total number of climbers was 50. 

  Wang Feng (different from Wang Yong-Feng) fell 400m on rough terrain (including 20-meter cliff) from above C3, but not seriously injured and walked down from C1.


  From www.mt8848.com (client summiter certificates):

  2006 Cho Oyu summit data mountaineering activities
  Published: at 14:24 on October 5, 2006 

    Name (last first), Nationality, Team, Smt date/time CST (Smt time NST) 

    Zou Xiang, China, Beijing Team, 2006-10-1 8:44 CST (6:29 NST)
    Fan Wenjun, China, Beijing Team, 2006-10-1 7:50 (5:35 NST)
    Nan Xinshun, China, Beijing Team, 2006-10-1 9:00 (6:45 NST) 
    Zhang Ying, China, Beijing Team, 2006-10-1 8:20 (6:05 NST)  
    Su Zixia, China, Beijing Team, 2006-10-1 8:42 (6:27 NST NST) 
    Wang Feng, China, Beijing Team, 2006-10-1 7:55 (5:40 NST)  
    Shang Yue, China, Beijing Team, 2006-10-1 9:00 (6:45 NST) 
    Su Jun, China, Beijing Team, 2006-10-1 7:45 (5:30 NST)
    Wang Qui-Yang, China, Beijing Team, 2006-10-2 8:30 (6:15 NST) 
    Sun Hong, China, Beijing Team, 2006-10-2 8:30 (6:15 NST)
    Huang Chungui, China, Beijing Team, 2006-10-2 8:10 (5:55 NST)  
    Wang Jian, China, Beijing Team, 2006-10-2 8:00 (5:45 NST)
    Zhou Jun, China, Beijing Team, 2006-10-2 7:35 (5:20 NST)  
    A San, China, Beijing Team, 2006-10-2 7:30 (5:15 NST)  
    Xu Jiang-Lei, China, Beijing Team, 2006-10-2 8:08 (5:53 NST)
    Cao Li, China, Shenzhen Team, 2006-10-1 8:15  (6:00 NST)
    Huang Jia-Quan, China, Shenzhen Team, 2006-10-1 8:15  (6:00 NST)
    Shi Xin, China, Shenzhen Team, 2006-10-1 7:55 (5:40 NST) 
    Li Hong, China, Shenzhen Team, 2006-10-1 7:45 (5:30 NST)
    Ciren Wangmu, China, Holy Mountain Adventure Co., 2006-10-2 7:00 (4:45 NST)
    Baima Lamu, China, Holy Mountain Adventure Co., 2006-10-1 9:00 (6:45 NST)


  From www.mt8858.com:

  Friends Mountaineering Team 2006 Zhuoyu (Cho Oyu) successful summit! 
  Published: at 6:55 pm on October 2, 2006 

  The latest: Between 7:00 am and 10:00 am on October 1, 2006, 2006 Zhuoyu Friends Mountaineering Team Beijing Group A and Shenzhen team, led by principal Nima Ciren, et al, successfully summitted the Zhuoyu peak (8201m). The summitters of Beijing team are Zou Xiang, Fan Wenjun, A Nan (Nan Shizhen), Zhang Ying, Shu Jun, Su Zixia (female), Wang Feng, and Shang Yue. All of the Shenzhen team summitted at the same time. 

  At 2:00 am this day, Beijing team Group A, under the leadership of principal Nima Ciren, started from C3. After 6-8 hours of arduous march, despite strong winds, lack of oxygen and other adverse situations and under the spirit of self-challenge, they successfully reached the summit. 

  Currently the team is descending orderly. Around 11:30 am, member Wang Feng unfortunately slipped and fell. Principal Nima Ciren is organizing alpine guides to help him descend. Other climbers are in good condition and are expected to reach C1 or ABC this afternoon.
   
  At the same time, members of Group B will climb from C2 to C3 starting at 12:00 pm today, and are planning to summit Zhuoyu tomorrow.


expid: CHOY06376
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Ludovic Challeat
sponsor: Alpes Exploration (Expex) Cho Oyu Expedition 2006
countries: Canada
bcdate: 2006-09-08
smtdate: 2006-10-01
smttime: 0745
termdate: 2006-10-03
campsites: BC(08/09,5000m),ABC(11/09,5700m),C1(14/09,6400m),C2(18/09,7100m),C3(30/09,7500m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Pemba Sherpa
routememo:
  Calise, Challeat, Genevois, Maurel, Millet, Monet, Priez, Pemba Sherpa, Lal Singh Tamang and Tibetan Sherpa Tsering left C3 at 05:00 hours (CST) on 1 Oct for summit. Challeat, Maurel, Pemba and Lal Singh Tamang summited at 10:00 hours (07:45 NST), Genevois and Priez summited at 11:00 hours (08:45 NST), and Monet and Tsering (Tibetan) reached summit at 12:00 hours (09:45 NST). The first summiting team stayed on summit 45 minutes, descended to C2 at 15:00 hours. Rest of the members arrived C2 around 16:00 hours. Next day to ABC. Weather was perfect, cold but no wind. All the members saw good view of Everest and surrounding mountains. Ahead of Challet team were Swiss team and American team and many other climbers. On that day may be 50-60 people summited, many of them with oxygen. 

  Calise and Millet turned around from 7600m due to excessive cold. 
  Blazer went up to C2 on 18 Sept and gave up further climb; he was very tired. 
  Charbonnel was exhausted and could not go beyond C1. 
  Cimetta couple climbed up to C3; they were exhausted and gave up climbing. 
  Destot, Hamdjian and Mercadie left ABC on 29 Sept. They were up waiting for 
    weather to improve. They left Kathmandu on 1 Oct. 
  Gallia climbed up to 7400m, was very tired and did not attempt again. 
  Jardret went up to C2, became exhausted then gave up. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 5 Oct and will leave on 7 Oct.

  Sherpa Summiter:
    Pemba Sherpa, 4/9/71, Hewa, Taksindu-6, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X1


expid: CHOY06354
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Henry Todd
sponsor: ICE 8000 Cho Oyu Expedition
countries: USA
bcdate: 2006-09-04
smtdate: 2006-10-02
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2006-10-04
campsites: BC(04/09),ABC(07/09,4900m),C1(14/09,6400m),C2(17/09,7200m),Smt(02/10)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Summit party left C2 at 1:00 am NST and on top at 11:30 am and down to C2 at 3:30 pm. 

  Oxygen used by Parfet and Supplee in C2 to top to and in C2; by Sherpas from about 7500m to top to 7500m.

  Todd went to C1 once but always slept in ABC.

  Wright went to C1 and 200m below C2 on 26 Sept; wasn't strong and left expedition 28th.

  Sherpa summiter:
    Pasang Dawa, aka Pa Dawa, 18/1/77, Pangboche, Everest X7, Lhotse X1, Cho Oyu X3

  Tibetan summiters: 
    Chimi, 23, Lhasa, Cho Oyu  X1, Everest X2
    Pema, 26, Lhasa, climbing school student, 1st 8000er

  Other Sherpas in Todd groups:
    Tshering Namgyal, aka Ang Namgyal, 14/5/84, Pangboche, Everest 19/5/06
    Lhakpa Thundu/Thudu, 20/5/70, Pangboche, Everest X4, Annapurna X1
    Gurmin Dorje, 23/7/76, Pangboche, Everest X3


expid: CHOY06378
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Greece
leaders: George Koukis
sponsor: Greek Cho Oyu Team
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2006-09-18
smtdate: 2006-09-30
termdate: 2006-10-03
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to altitude problems for both members
campsites: BC(18/09,4900m),ABC(22/09,5799m),C1(28/09,6400m),xxx(30/09,7000m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Apparently Koukis and Titopoulos tried to go to C2 on 30 Sept and stopped at 7000m. They had problem of altitude then they gave up their climbing. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 5 Oct. Titopoulos left Nepal on 17 Oct. Koukis went for trek and returned to Kathmandu on 5 Nov.


expid: GAN506301
peakid: GAN5
year: 2006
route1: S Face-NW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Stefan Cieslar
sponsor: French to Ganesh V
approach: From Paldor BC->Ganesh V BC
bcdate: 2006-10-24
smtdate: 2006-10-26
othersmts: Had diversionary permit for Paldor (PALD-063-01)
campsites: BC(10/24,4500m),IC(10/25,5000m),C1(10/26,5500m),xxx(5500m+)
agency: Trinetra Adventure
routememo:
  Most media reports incorrectly state that this team was attempting Ganesh VII, not Ganesh 5.


  French expedition on Ganesh V - Autumn 2006

  The team, led by Stefan Cieslar, had a permit for Paldor, a trekking peak north of Kathmandu, but they made no attempt to climb it. They dismissed their Sherpas when they reached Paldor's east side and continued northward to Ganesh V, which is across the border in Tibet. Their attempt on Ganesh V was unauthorized; the mountain is not on the Nepalese government's list of permitted peaks.

  According to their log, which was found at base camp, they placed this base camp on 24 Oct at 4500m at Khola Kharka near the Bharangge Khola. Their next camp, which they called temporary camp, was made on the 25th slightly below 5000m in the middle of the Sanjung Glacier, and their final camp was pitched the next day at 5500m on a flat snowfield in a rocky area.

  Their log said that from this last camp they were going for the summit on the 27th. Whether they reached the top is not known. All four members were hit by an avalanche triggered by a falling serac; their bodies were not found by searchers in November.


  Remains of Missing French Mountaineers found on Ganesh Himal - NepalNews.com, 17 July 2007

  Remains of four French mountaineers, who went missing while climbing the 5896m Mt. Paldor in November last year, have been found.

  According to Ang Tshering Sherpa, president of Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA), the remains of the French climbers, identified as Stefan Cieslar, Jean-Baptiste Moreau, Raphael Perrissin and Vincent Villedieu, were found ten days earlier. They are believed to have lost their lives in avalanche.

  “Either they were trying to illegally scale Ganesh Himal (they had permission for Mt. Paldor only) or they lacked orientation,” Sherpa told NepalNews, explaining about the discovery of the body parts on Ganesh Himal, which is 7200m tall.

  All four were experienced climbers. Mt. Paldor, described by mountaineers as a "trekking peak," is the easiest peak in Nepal.

  Body parts of two climbers and some belongings of other two were found during the search and rescue mission involving French experts and NMA instructors.

  The dead mountaineers were cremated at the base camp of Mt. Paldor, Sherpa informed. Monuments of the deceased were also built near the cremation site.


  Remains of Missing French Climbers Found in Nepal - Times of India, 18 Jul 2007

  LYON (FRANCE): A search team has found the remains of only two of the four French climbers who disappeared while climbing on the border of Nepal and Tibet last year, the head of the search has said, refuting claims that all four had been found. 

  "All the bodies have not been found, only two have," Jean Coudray said in a telephone interview. 

  Mountaineering officials in Kathmandu had said earlier Tuesday that a search team had discovered all four bodies. 

  Coudray, who was leading a group of Nepalese mountain guides when they discovered the remains last Wednesday, said "the bodies were in bad shape after a fall of more than 1000m (305 feet)," adding that he had been unable to identify them. 

  "They were found on the Nepalese side of the mountain," he said, denying the Nepali Mountaineering Association's claims that the four had illegally crossed over to Tibet. 

  "There is an artistic haze around the position of the border, but according to my maps they were on the Nepalese side of the mountain, he insisted. 

  "We found them in an area that was completely different from what we had expected, which leads us to believe that the four victims fell when they were very near the summit and that the other bodies are in the same area, but under large quantities of snow and ice," Coudray said, pointing out that avalanches were common in the sector. 

  Aged between 28 and 36 at the time of their deaths, the four were all experienced climbers and one of the party was a professional mountain guide.


expid: GYAJ06301
peakid: GYAJ
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Canada
leaders: Philippe Pibarot
sponsor: La Cordee du Coeur 2006 Gyajikang
approach: Plane to Hongde->Chame->Koto->Dharapani->Kyang->Phu
bcdate: 2006-10-28
smtdate: 2006-10-30
termdate: 2006-11-02
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(28/10,4800m),ABC(29/10,5400m),xxx(30/10,5800m)
accidents: Chhotemba slid down with a broken ice slab about 20m above 6000m
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Rai)
routememo:
  Bouchard, Hamel, Mailhot, Pibarot, Smith and White left ABC around 10:00 hours, reached to 5800m at 15:30 hours. It was getting late to go further. It was good weather day, but started snowing. Then all members descended to BC at about 19:30 hours. Weather changed, cloudy and stormy. 

  The expedition returned via Nar, Kang Pass, Manang, Thorang Pass to Muktinath and to Jomsom to fly to Pokhara. The expedition returned to Kathmandu on 10 Oct and leaving on 12 Oct.

  Sherpas:
    Chhotemba Sherpa, 24/2/85, Walung, Makalu-9, Gyajikang in spring 2005 with French
    Pemba Jangbu Sherpa, 17/2/88, Jubing-7, Khartse, Gyajikang in 2005 with Japanese,
      Baruntse 2004
    Lhakpa Wangdi, 25/11/77, Chheskam-2, Solu, Annapurna IV in 2005 with Austrians


expid: KTEG06301
peakid: KTEG
year: 2006
route1: N Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Katstaka Yokoyama
sponsor: Giri Giri Boys Kangtega Expedition
approach: Lukla to Chutanga & Orshela, N Tengnaga & Dig Kharka & Neta BC
bcdate: 2006-11-21
smtdate: 2006-12-06
termdate: 2006-12-10
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to difficult of route in severe winter weather
campsites: BC(21/11,4800m),ABC(03/12,5500m),Biv1(05/12,6000m),Biv2(06/12,6300m),xxx(06/12,6300m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC  at south end of Hinku Glacier
  ABC at west end of Hinku Nup Glacier and bottom of North Face
  Biv 1 on North Face (center of face)
  Biv 2 on face.

  From BC acclimatized by climbing to 6200m on point 6261 east of mountain and stayed there nights of 27 and 28 Nov, then return to BC 29 Nov and rested 2 days. 5 Dec up from ABC 8 pitches to biv at 6000m, hanging from wall. 6 Dec 2nd biv at 6300m on face in small snow ledge by Yokohama and in narrow cave by Satoh. 7 Dec abandoned climb because 500m wall above 85-90 degree steepness, had not acclimatized enough and very hard to climb; now strong winds and very cold (-20 degrees). Started down at 8:00 am and arrived at ABC 12:00 noon. Wind got stronger and stronger as descended, so if had continued climb maybe fingers and toes frostbitten. 8th to BC and climb finished. From ABC to BC difficulty from big unstable rocks and took 8 hours to arrive BC.

  Best time to climb this wall is end of Nov when ice is formed but no so cold; would take more biv gear and acclimatize at higher altitude in different area before attempting it. May return in 2008.


expid: LANG06301
peakid: LANG
year: 2006
route1: SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Mikael Dubois-Bedin
sponsor: Dubois-Jacquet Langtang Lirung Expedition
approach: Langtang Khola->Kyangjin Kharka
bcdate: 2006-11-06
smtdate: 2006-11-15
termdate: 2006-11-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6200 due to impassible corniced ridge
othersmts: Climbed Naya Kanga
campsites: BC(/6/11,4850m),C1(07/11,5300m),Biv1(13/11,5800m),Biv2(14/11,6100m),xxx(15/11,6200m)
agency: Trinetra Adventure
routememo:
  French Langtang Lirung & Naya Kang (Autumn 2006) - 27 Nov 2006

  The team had a permit for Langtang Lirung. They were just two members, Mikael Dubois-Bedin and Ludovic Jacquet. They wanted to climb in "pure" alpine style, so they fixed no ropes, took no oxygen with them and had no Sherpas.

  They followed the Langtang Khola eastward to Kyangjin Kharka. First they went for an acclimatization climb on Gangchempo and climbed it to only 5000m, then they went to Naya Kanga to acclimatize some more.

  They made their Naya Kanga base camp on 27 Oct at 4900m east of the mountain before the glacier. They left camp at 5:00 am on the 28th, climbed the East Ridge through snow that was knee-deep in some places, thigh deep in others, and reached the 5846m high summit at 12:00 noon. A Spanish team, whom the French did not meet and knew nothing more about, had broken trail two or three days earlier to an altitude of 5400m and then retreated exhausted by their efforts, according to local people. If the Spaniards had not made a track, the French said they themselves probably would not bave succeeded. The French descended to base camp at 3:00 pm and left it on the 29th to move north to Langtang Lirung.

  It took them three days to ferry their loads from Kyangjin Kharka to Langtang Lirung base camp, which they finally occupied on 6 Nov. It was 4850m, above the west side of the Ledrub Lirung Glacier. On the 7th, they made C1 at 5300m below the SE Ridge. From here they launched their attempt to scale the mountain on the 13th and bivouacked at 5800m, just 40 meters below the ridge. They got onto the ridge on the next day, the 14th, and climbed along this difficult ridge to 6100m, where they again bivouacked. On the 15th they resumed their climb at 6:00 am, but stopped two hours later at 6200m steep, corniced and overhanging in places. They did not have enough gear to surmount it, and it was impossible to go around it. They were back in base camp at 6:00 pm, and the climb was finished. They abandoned it because of the difficulty presented by the snow wall. They left base camp on 17 Nov to do some trekking and return to Kathmandu, where they arrived on the 26th. They leave Nepal on the 30th.


expid: LHOT06401
peakid: LHOT
year: 2006
route1: S Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Choong-Jik
sponsor: 2006/2007 Korean Lhotse Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Tengboche->Chhukung
bcdate: 2006-11-12
smtdate: 2006-12-24
termdate: 2006-12-26
termnote: Abandoned at 8200m due to danger of falling rocks, very strong wind
campsites: BC(12/11,5250m),C1(17/11,5900m),C2(29/11,7100m),C3(22/12,8000m),xxx(24/12,8200m)
accidents: Lhakpa Wangel and Nima Tenji's fingers frostbitten
agency: NE-KO Treks
routememo:
  C2 at deposit camp on 21 Dec at 7300m used one night

  An started from C3 at about 08:00 hours on 24 Dec, reached 8200m at about 19:00 hours with two Japanese expedition members, Kemmochi and Senda, and returned to C3 at about 20:30 hours. Next day An left C3 at 05:00 hours to BC (19:00 hours). 

  Choi stayed at BC (no climbing). 
  Kang climbed up to 8000m (C3) on 22 Dec and stopped, exhausted. 
  Lee stayed at BC (no climbing).  
  Kim went up to 6100m and stopped, exhausted.
  Seong went up to 7500m and stopped, exhausted. 

  Both Pasang Bhotes went up to 8000m. Mingma Thindup high point was 7300m and Pemba Tenzing high point was 7100m. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 31 Dec and will leave on 8 Jan 07.

  Sherpas:
    Bhote Pasang, 18-5-2039 (3/9/82), Hatiya, Makalu
    Bhote Pasang, 05-2-2039 (19/5/86), Chepuwa, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Sherpa Lhakpa, 1965/66, Makalu VDC
    Sherpa Lhakpa Wangel, 03-05-2023 (19/8/66), Walung, Makalu
    Sherpa Mingma Thindup, 02-01-2026 (14/4/69), Everest X1, Makalu X1
    Sherpa Nima, 03-11-2033 (14/2/77), Makalu VDC, Ev20/5/06
    Sherpa Nima Kancha, 14-05-2036 (30/8/79), Thami, Cho Oyu 26/5/06
    Sherpa Nima Tenji, 21-06-2035 (7/10/78), Tumlingtar, Everest 16/5/06
    Sherpa Pemba Tenzing/Tenjin, 19-10-2032 (2/2/76), Phurte, Namche-4


expid: PHAR06301
peakid: PHAR
year: 2006
route1: Couloirs of NE Face to West Smt
nation: UK
leaders: Nick Bullock
bcdate: 2006-10-10
smtdate: 2006-10-15
termdate: 2006-10-16
campsites: BC(10/10,4800m),Biv1(13/10,5150m),Biv2(14/10,5600m),W Smt(15/10,5977m)
achievment: 1st ascent of West Summit
agency: None
routememo:
  14th left biv at 6:30 am and 12:38 am, up very steep route up to 90 degrees but good ice; same day abseiled down to bottom of mountain and to Gokyo. Quite technical, more so than Bellochi's routes on Tengkangpoche.


expid: PUMO06302
peakid: PUMO
year: 2006
route1: SE Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Christian Denicolo
sponsor: Ladinia Expedition Pumori 2006
approach: Lukla->Namche->Tengboche
bcdate: 2006-10-06
smtdate: 2006-10-14
termdate: 2006-10-16
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to huge avalanche that killed four Sherpas
campsites: BC(06/10),ABC(10/10,5700m),xxx(14/10,6500m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  The expedition members climbed up to 6200m for acclimatization and descended to BC on 13 Oct. They planned to go up to C2 next day. Accordingly, four Sherpas Ang Zangbu of Denicola team, Phurba Thundu of Austrian Einwaller, Lhakpa Nurbu and Temba Wongdi of Japanese Hayashi team, went up to put fix line on 14th. The four Sherpas were at about 6500m (C2). The avalanche occured around 12:30 hours and swept the Sherpas. Denicola who was watching the avalanche from BC went up to see if anybody alive. He found the dead body of Phurba Thundu at about 5300m and no trace of other Sherpas. 

  The expedition team returned to Kathmandu on 19 Oct and will leave on 26th.

  Sherpa:
    Ang Zangbu, Patle, Okhaldhunga 21/3/73 (8/12/2029)


expid: PUMO06303
peakid: PUMO
year: 2006
route1: SE Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Josef Einwaller
sponsor: International Pumori Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Lobuche
bcdate: 2006-10-08
smtdate: 2006-10-14
termdate: 2006-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to avalanche killing one of his Sherpas
campsites: BC(08/10,5300m),ABC(10/10,5700m),xxx(14/10,6500m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Einwaller climbed up to ABC (5700m) for acclimatization on 10 Oct. His plan was to go to C2 and to summit after having weather forecast from his friends in Austria. On 14 October one of his Sherpas Phurba Thundu, Ang Jangbu of Denicolo team, Lhakpa Nurbu and Temba Wongdi of Japanese Hayashi team went up to put fix lines to C2. The four Sherpas were at about 6500m (C2). The avalanche occured around 12:30 hours and swept the Sherpas. Denicolo who was watching the avalanche went up to see if anybody alive. He found dead body of Phurba Thundu at about 5300m and no trace of other Sherpas. Next day the dead body was brought down by Sherpas to BC.

  Einwaller returned to Kathmandu on 18 Oct and may leave on 23rd Oct.

  Sherpas:
    Phurba/Furba Thundu Sherpa, (10-7-2032), Beding, Everest 18/5/04
    Phurba Tenzing Sherpa, (10-02-2045), Beding 

    Both are brothers.


expid: PUMO06304
peakid: PUMO
year: 2006
route1: SE Face
nation: UK
leaders: Zachary Poulton
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Pumori Expedition 2006
bcdate: 2006-10-24
smtdate: 2006-10-27
termdate: 2006-10-31
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to danger of falling seracs
othersmts: Attempted Ama Dablam (AMAD-063-35) (Duncan Williams)
campsites: BC(24/10,5300m),ABC(27/10,5800m),xxx(27-28/10)
accidents: Nothing serious; Allen mild altitude problem
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC at between 2 lakes below Gorak Shep.

  Poulton reached 6300m at 1:00-2:00 pm on 28 Oct (had seen "a lot of activity" of falling seracs at night falling from left of East Shoulder) and when got to C1 site couldn't see safe way above so decided to abandon climb.

  Ball and Williams went to 6200m on 28th, saw danger of falling seracs above and retreated.

  Allen went to ABC on 27th, had headache all night from not acclimatizing well and went down to BC where he recovered.

  Sherpas:
    Sonam Dorje, 18/1/86, Pangboche, Everest 17/5/06
    Mingma Nuru, 22/4/69, Pangboche, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X4, Lhotse X1


expid: PUMO06305
peakid: PUMO
year: 2006
route1: SE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Takaharu Hayashi
sponsor: Karangkurung Pumori Expedition 2006
approach: Lukla->Namche->Dingboche->Pokhalde Peak->Lobuche Peak->Dugla
bcdate: 2006-10-09
smtdate: 2006-10-14
termdate: 2006-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to avalanche killing two Sherpas
campsites: BC(09/10,5300m),C1(13/10,5800m),xxx(14/10,6500m)
agency: Lhakpa Sherpa
routememo:
  Hayashi, Matsuoka, Omura and Lhakpa Sherpa proceeded from BC to reach C2 on 14 Oct. While two of their Sherpas Lhakpa Nurbu and Temba Wangdi along with Ang Jangbu of Denicolo team (Italian) and Phurba Thundu of Austrian Einwaller were making way and trying to pitch C2 for climbers. One of the members of Hayashi team at 6200m did not feel well (headache) and they turned around. The avalanche occured around 12:30 hours and swept the sherpas from C2. Denicolo of Italian team leader went up to see if anybody alive. He found the dead body of Phurba Thundu at about 5300m and no trace of other Sherpas.

  The expedition team returned to Kathmandu on 27 Oct. Two members will leave Kathmandu on 29th and leader Hayashi is going for Langtang trek with a trekking member. Hayashi will return on 11 Nov and leave on 12th.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Nurbu Sherpa, 34 years old, Makalu-9, Upper Walung, no 8000ers
    Temba Wangdi Sherpa, 29-1-1960, Makalu-9, Upper Walung, Cho Oyu X3, Makalu 2006
    Lhakpa Sherpa, 27/4/1965 (15-1-2022), Makalu-9, Upper Walung, 
       Cho Oyu 21/9/03 and 1/10/06; Organizer of the expedition


expid: TASH06303
peakid: TASH
year: 2006
route1: SE Face of SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Klaus Viebahn
sponsor: Tashi Kang/Tsartse Expedition 2006
approach: Jomsom, north to Dhagarjung & Sangda Pass, west to Sangda village
bcdate: 2006-10-27
smtdate: 2006-10-30
termdate: 2006-11-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to avalanche danger and lack of time
campsites: BC(27/10,4800m),ABC(29/10,5560m),xxx(30/10,6300m)
agency: Kulung Ethnic Treks
routememo:
  High point at SW Ridge of Tashi Kang.

  From ABC up glacier to SE Face of SW Ridge on 30 Oct to 80m below summit of Tashi Kang. Ridge corniced so had to go over onto its north side of which was avalanche prone, so back to ABC. All members except Baumann, Ewender, Richter, Milde and Surholt reached Tashi Kang high point. Spent 31st in ABC, then on 1 Nov left on trek to Jomsom via Dhampus Pass. Made no attempt on Tsartse because the approach to Tsartse is via summit of Tashi Kang and connecting ridge between them. Had deadline of Nov to return to Jomsom for 3rd Nov flight from Jomsom to Pokhara and then Kathmandu.   

  Baumann did not go far above ABC; Ewender stayed in ABC (not acclimatizing); Richter turned back at 6000m because climbing too slowly and Milde went back to ABC with her (his girlfriend); Pudritz also only to 6000m because too slow.


expid: TASH06304
peakid: TASH
year: 2006
nation: France
leaders: Bernard Flaceliere
sponsor: Bernard & Francois Tashi Kang Expedition
approach: Kali Gandaki River Valley
bcdate: 2006-11-06
termdate: 2006-11-10
othersmts: Climbed Thapa Peak (via WSW Ridge)(Flaceliere and Prem Gurung)
agency: Trinetra Adventure
routememo:
  French Tashi Kang/Thapa Peak team (Autumn 2006) - 19 Nov 2006

  When team approached Hidden Valley at the beginning of November, they were told by groups coming from that area that the snow was very deep there.

  On 6 Nov they made base camp at 4879m east of Dhampas Pass. Next day Bres, who had been suffering for days from a respiratory problem and did not seem motivated to do any climbing here, left for home. They had decided not to attempt to enter the Valley to reach Tashi Kang because their porters were not equipped for deep snow. The base camp would be the base for an attempt on Thapa Peak (aka Dhampus Peak).

  On the same day (the 7th), Flaceliere, now the only member, and Prem Bahadur Gurung, plus the cook, went for a reconnaissance of the site fo their next camp, which Flaceliere called "elevation camp." They found the place east of Dhampus Pass at 5035m, two hours or four kms away from base, and then returned to base camp.

  On the 8th Flaceliere, Prem Bahadur Gurung and the cook occupied ABC (elevation camp), and on the 9th Flaceliere and Gurung left camp at 2:45 am. For the summit vias the west-southwest ridge, which was covered with snow at the start but ended in very unstable rock. It led to the first summit (6034m) and onto the main summit (6054m plus or minus ten meters, according to meters-wide pond or pool of ice-covered water. They were on the main summit at 9:15 am and back in ABC/elevation camp at 12:30 pm; they left it immediately and were in base camp at 3:30 pm. By this time Gurung had a bad headache.

  On the 10th they trekked to Marpha on the Kali Gandaki River.

  "Sherpa:"
    Prem Bahadur Gurung, 16/12/78 (1/9/2035), Namarku, Ilam Pokhari vdc, 
      Lamjung district, no 8000ers or 7000ers


  Taken from photocopies of Flaceliere's daily notes.

  The approach along Kali Gandaki river together with trekking group.
  Oct 31st     Beni - Mahabhir
  Wed  Nov 1   Mahabhir - Kopchepani 
  Thurs Nov 2  Kopchepani 1650m 
               Kothethanti 2540m
  Friday 3 Nov 1/2 days
               Kothethanti
               Tukuche 2600m

  Francois still sick. Decision made to go to Marpha 1/2 day. All due to snowfalls.

  Sat 4 Nov  1/2 day
      Tukuche - Chimang - Chhairo - Marpha
  The two groups summit and trek.

  The approach to CB.
  Sun 5 Nov
    08:00 Marpha 2600m 
    14:20 Alubari 3890m

  Mon 6 Nov
    07:30 Alubari 3890m
    12:45 camp    4879m  installed on the first snow to get water
                    
  Tuesday 7 Nov
  Francois still sick. Decision made to get him down. Also to cancel Tashi Kang due to the very bad condition of the snow in the Hidden Valley. 
  This will be our base camp for the Dampus Peak or Thapa Peak 

  08:10 - Reconnaissance for establishing an elevation camp before or after Dhampus pass - done with Bernard, Prem and Norbu (China) Cook. 
  10:55 - arrived before Dhampus Pass
  13:40 - Back to BC, snow

  Wed 8 Nov
  09:10 Base camp
  11:45 Elevation Camp 5035m
  BC-EC = 4 Km horizontal

  The summit day
  Thu 9 Nov
  02:45 left Elevation Camp at 5035.
  Follow route medium deep snow, part of rock climbing on very unstable orange rocks - 
  arrived at a first summit, but this is not the true one - descent a tenth of iced piece of water.

  09:15 reached the summit
  Dhampus/Thapa 6054m
  First summit 6034m 

  12:30 - arrived at Elevation Camp.
  15:30 - arrived at base camp.

  Friday 10 Nov
  08:45 departed BC at 4875m
  13:00 arrived Marpha at 2700m


expid: TENG06301
peakid: TENG
year: 2006
route1: S Ridge from south
nation: UK
leaders: David Nightingale
sponsor: British Tengkoma
ascent1: 7th
approach: Taplejung->Ghunsa->Lhonak->east to Jorkin
bcdate: 2006-10-27
smtdate: 2006-10-29
termdate: 2006-10-30
campsites: BC(27/10,4900m),C1(28/10,5500m),Smt(29/10)
agency: Community Action Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Jarkin (no village) south of summits on Kangchenjunga Glacier
  C1 at south side.

  Fixed rope from 5900m to 6100m on South Ridge. Moved together to top. Left C1 3:30 am and on top at 9:55 am and down to BC 3:30-4:00 pm. Not technically difficult but lower altitudes broken rocks like boulders. Fixed most of route on bare rock, but from 5900m to top good snow cover.

  Team arrived in Kathmandu 13 Oct, stayed at Malla Hotel; left 13 Oct for Biratnagar and Taplejung by air.

  Sherpa summiters: 
    Tshering Dorje, 12/11/81, Chheskam VDC, Mamerku village, east of Bung, no 8000ers
    Gyalzen Sherpa, 23 years old, same village, no 8000ers


expid: TILI06303
peakid: TILI
year: 2006
route1: NE Spur-N Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Hajo Netzer
sponsor: Amical Alpin Tilicho Expedition 2006
countries: Austria, France
approach: Kudi->Manang
bcdate: 2006-10-12
smtdate: 2006-10-18
termdate: 2006-10-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6280m due to avalanche danger
campsites: BC(12/10,5900m),C1(17/10,5800m),xxx(18,25/10,6280m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Rai)
routememo:
  On 18 Oct team ascended to C2 to set up camp. They descended to BC the same day. Weather closed in and stayed bad for 4 days. It snowed a lot during that time. On 23 Oct a Sherpa from the French tam was caught in an avalanche and injured himself. On 24 Oct the team ascended to C1 again. It was hard as they had to break trail. On 25 Oct they ascended to C2 but decided to pack up and abandon climb as snow conditions were too precarious. They descended to BC on 28 Oct.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Tshering, Khumjung, 24/6/75, Everest X3, Annapurna I X1


expid: TILI06304
peakid: TILI
year: 2006
route1: NE Spur-N Ridge
nation: Denmark
leaders: Philip Ulrich
sponsor: Danish Tilicho Expedition 2006
approach: Bus to Beshisahar->Jagat->Chame->Manang->Khangsar->Tilicho BC Hotel
bcdate: 2006-10-22
smtdate: 2006-10-22
termdate: 2006-10-31
termnote: Abandoned at 4945m due to bad snow condition on the mountain
othersmts: Climbed rock mountain peak about 5500m high north of Tilicho
campsites: BC(22/10,4945m),xxx(22/10,4945m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Ulrich got to the BC of Tilicho and came to know from other expedition that snow condition was bad on the mountain. He gave up on climbing Tilicho instead he went to climb an unnamed peak north of Tilicho, about 5500m high. 

  He returned to Kathmandu on 5 Nov and will leave on 8 Nov.


expid: TILI06305
peakid: TILI
year: 2006
route1: NE Spur-N Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Yves Meremans
sponsor: First Belgian Tilicho Expedition 2006
approach: Bus to Beshisahar->Jagat->Chame->Manang->Khangsar->Tilicho BC
bcdate: 2006-10-22
smtdate: 2006-10-28
termdate: 2006-10-31
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to risk of avalanche (lot of snow)
campsites: BC(22/10,4945m),C1(26/10,5800m),xxx(28/10,6000m)
agency: Cultural Treks
routememo:
  On 28 Oct Acke, Meremans, Vander Elst (Eddy) and Mingma climbed up to about 6000m planning to set up C2. The team met French expedition members descending and they told the Belgium team that it is not possible to go beyond C2 due to deep snow condition and risk of avalanche. Then the expedition team decided to descend to BC. Gielens and Vander Elst (Daniel) climbed up to 5500m on 26 Oct. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 5 Nov and will leave on 8 Nov.

  Sherpa:
    Mingma Temba, 19/1/80, Yaplu-9, Sankhuwasabha, Ev 17/5/06


expid: TILI06306
peakid: TILI
year: 2006
route1: NE Spur-N Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Gilles Trousselier
sponsor: French to Tilicho
countries: Netherlands
approach: Hongde->Manang->Phedi->Thorung La->Kamja
bcdate: 2006-10-16
smtdate: 2006-10-22
termdate: 2006-10-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(16/10,4900m),C1(18/10,5900m),C2(22/10,6300m),xxx(22/10,6300m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Rai)
routememo:
  Aladel, Bordas, Boyer, Capoulade, Durand, Madelon, Ricard, Trousselier, Vega, Wolberink, Ang Gelbu, Ang Pemba and Mingma Dorje Sherpa reached C2 on 22 Oct. The team found that it was not possible to go further due to bad snow conditions and decided to stop climbing further. On 23rd they descended to BC. 

  Gerdessut remained at BC - no motivation to climb. 

  The expedition returned to Kathmandu on 3 Nov and will leave on 4 Nov.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Gelbu Sherpa (20/7/65), Jubing-7, Paiya
    Ang Pemba Sherpa (25/7/78), Namche-7, Mende, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Mingma Dorje Sherpa (22/7/63), Jubing-1, Kharikhola


expid: TKPO06301
peakid: TKPO
year: 2006
route1: N Pillar
nation: Canada
leaders: John Furneaux
sponsor: Squamish Tengkangpoche Expedition 2006
bcdate: 2006-10-09
smtdate: 2006-10-19
termdate: 2006-10-21
termnote: Abandoned at 5750m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(09/10,4320m),Biv1(13/10,5150m),Biv2(16/10,5350m),Biv3(17/10,5600m),xxx(19/10,5750m)
agency: Nepal Village Trekking
routememo:
  BC at north side of river in house of Tengpo village
  High point at main headwall of North Face.

  Center of North Face is North Pillar made up of series of steep rockwalls and led gear. Route not attempted by anyone before. 11th Oct Furneaux and Maddaloni started up pillar from base of pillar 4800m and back to BC after fixing rope to 5000m. 12th to 5100m again fixing rope on the route and again to BC. 13th moved gear up to 5150m at snow slope and pitched tent. 14th climbed 150m; 15th another 150m to 5450m. On 16th and made C2 at 5350m at only spot for a camp possible (moved C1's tent up to here, so really C1 was a biv). 17th had been intermittent snow slopes and rock walls but snow only rock up 70m only; made biv at 5600m below main headwall. Weather had been down [???] every day till 4:00 pm when clouds moved in. 18th moved up 60m where snow storm came in at 3:00 pm, spindrift, avalanching so down to last biv site at 5600m. 19th day was clear in am, climbed 30 minutes and storm again, again to 5600m. 20th overcast in morning so rapelled down to BC and climb over. Next 4 days it snowed. 

  Furneaux and Maddaloni like to return to this route which will go; hard climb but satisfying; "hardest route we've have ever put up" says Furneaux.

  Janet Bride stayed in BC with got mild altitude sickness; Paul Bride went up to 5000m, got the photographs he wanted and he and wife left expedition on 13 Oct.


expid: CHOY06379
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Austria
leaders: Heinz Puxbaumer
sponsor: Carinthian Expedition to Cho Oyu 2006
approach: Kathmandu by road to BC
bcdate: 2006-09-03
smtdate: 2006-09-21
termdate: 2006-09-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to avalanche danger
campsites: BC(03/09,4900m),ABC(07/09,5500m),C1(12/09,6400m),xxx(21/09,7300m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Email from Billi Bierling

  On 4 Sept a Chinese truck arrived at ABC in the afternoon and the drunk driver drove over 3 tents. There were climbers in the tents who were sleeping. The climbers were lucky as nobody was injured. The truck came to a stop in front of the Italian mess tent. Puxbaumer said the incident was quite a shock to a lot of people and an Italian team abandoned their expedition the next day and went back to Kathmandu. The police only showed up on 5 Sept. 

  Puxbaumer started at 7:00 am (NST) from C1 on 21 Sept. The weather was good, good snow conditions, very cold but no wind. He arrived at C2 (7100m) at 1 pm and climbed a bit higher to reconnoiter and when he reached 7300m he decided to turn back due to avalanche danger. He turned back around 2:30 pm and met two Italians (Enrico and Hermano) at 5 pm. Puxbaumer spent the night at C1 and descended to ABC the next day. The weather was pretty bad then; it was very windy and icy. His teammate Brenher was at ABC waiting for him.

  Brenher reached C1 (6400m) with Puxbaumer on 12 Sept and stayed the night. Both members descended to ABC on 13 Sept. Brenher lacked motivation and thought he was too slow to carry on. He stayed at ABC for the rest of the expedition. 


expid: CHOY06380
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Paolo Ciccarelli
sponsor: Cho Oyu Ciccarelli Expedition 2006
approach: Lhasa->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-11
smtdate: 2006-09-30
smttime: 0945
termdate: 2006-10-03
campsites: BC(11/09,4900m),ABC(14/09,5500m),C1(15/09,6400m),C1(25/09,7100m),C3(29/09,7450m),Smt(30/09)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Dawa and Ciccarelli left C3 at 5 am on 30 Sept. The weather was clear but very cold. They only spent a few minutes on the summit as C2 was very cold. They descended to C2 after the summit. On 1 Oct they descended to ABC.

  Baesso got to C1 on 20 Sept, but returned to ABC the same day. She did not go further as she never intended to climb and it was too hard for her. 

  Sherpa:
    Dawa Sherpa, aka Dhaulagiri Dawa, 7/12/59, Walung, Makalu VDC, Cho Oyu 9/5/06


expid: PALD06301
peakid: PALD
year: 2006
nation: France
leaders: Stefan Cieslar
sponsor: French to Ganesh V
smtdate: 2006-10-26
othersmts: Attempted Ganesh V illegally (GAN5-063-01)
agency: Trinetra Adventure
primid: GAN506301
routememo:
  French expedition on Ganesh V - Autumn 2006

  The team, led by Stefan Cieslar, had a permit for Paldor, a trekking peak north of Kathmandu, but they made no attempt to climb it. They dismissed their Sherpas when they reached Paldor's east side and continued northward to Ganesh V, which is across the border in Tibet. Their attempt on Ganesh V was unauthorized; the mountain is not on the Nepalese government's list of permitted peaks.


expid: AMAD06401
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Bo-Yeol
sponsor: 2006/2007 Korean Ama Dablam Winter Expedition
bcdate: 2006-12-26
smtdate: 2007-01-06
termdate: 2007-01-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to strong wind and avalanche danger
campsites: BC(26/12,4500m),ABC(03/01,5400m),C1(04/01,5800m),C2(05/01,6100m),xxx(06/01,6600m)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  2006/07 Korean Ama Dablam Winter Expedition - 24 Jan 2006

  The former site for C3 was largely destroyed by the the avalanche of 13 Nov 2006 which took the lives of six climbers. There is still a small space for a camp, but the site is still subject to continous avalanching. This team therefore did not establish a C3, but made their summit attempts from C2.

  The first summit party made an attempt on 6 January. They were Choi Jin-Chul, Kim Yong-Su, Lee Teak-Gun, Won Young-Jin, Woo Sung-Ho, Pasang Namgyal Sherpa, Tapche Bhote, and Mingmar Tamang. They made slow progress because the 13 November avalanche had taken with it the ropes fixed in the autumn; this party had to fix new ropes as they climbed. They fixed 400m of rope starting from 6300m, just below C3. By the time they reached 6600m it was too late to go to the summit. They turned back and returned to C2.

  The second summit party made their summit bid on 15 January. They were Lee, Won, Woo and the same three Sherpas. They reached 6300m and from there were driven back by very strong wind and a large avalanche from the Ama Dablam that swept only 20 meters away from them. They retreated to C2, and the was climb over.

  Two members went no higher than ABC: Choi Sang-Bo was a non-climbing journalist, and the leader, Kim Bo-Yeol also stayed in ABC.

  All other members went up to C1 but no higher. There was not much space at C2, so they waited in C1 for the first and second team to go to the top and then descend, thus making room for the others to occupy C2 after them.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Namgyal, 25/11/72 (10/8/2029), Khumjung, Everest 21/5/03, 
      Yalung Kang 5/5/04
    Mingmar Tamang, 23/9/64 (8/6/2021), Pirangding, Kerung, Solu
    Tapche/Tapchen Bhote, 24/11/72 (9/8/2021), Hatiya, Makalu-Barun, Cho Oyu 13/5/03


expid: AMAD06402
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Oh Eun-Sun
sponsor: Korean Student Alpine Federation Ama Dablam Winter Expedition
countries: USA
approach: L>uka->Namche->Tengboche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2006-12-25
smtdate: 2007-01-06
termdate: 2007-01-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to risk of avalanche and difficulty in making route
campsites: BC(25/12,4500m),ABC(28/12,4900m),C1(04/01,5700m),C2(05/01,6100m),xxx(06,13/01,6400m)
agency: NE-KO Treks
routememo:
  The team attempted to summit three times. Kim, Lee, Oh, Song, Woo, Yi, Thilen and Nurbu made their first attempt on 6 Jan and reached up to 6400m. There were several avalanches above the big serac and the team decided to return to C2. 

  Kim, Lee, Oh, Park, Thilen and Nurbu made second attempt on 13 Jan. The team climbed up to 6400m. There was a very strong wind as it was not possible for the team to continue climbing then turn around to C2. 

  Third attempt was made by Kim, Oh, Thilen and Nurbu on 20 Jan but they had to turn around from C2 due to risk of avalanche and difficulty to make route. On that day there were two big avalanche and three small. 

  Ha remained at BC (no climbing done by him). 
  Heo had backache while in Kathmandu and did not go to mountain; he left Nepal on 22 Dec. 
  Joo climbed up to C1 on 12 Jan; she suffered from stomach problem and also had headache. 
  Kim went up to C2 on 13 Jan; he was tired and had headache (no further climbing done). 
  Lee climbed up to 6300m on 6 Jan; he was exhausted and gave up further climbing. 
  Na climbed up to C1 on 12 Jan became exhausted and gave up.

  Song and Yi left BC on 10 Jan, arrived Kathmandu on 13th. Yi left Nepal on 22 Jan. Song will leave on 29th. Nine members returned to Kathmandu on 23 Jan and will leave on 27th. Oh is thinking to go to Cho Oyu in April 2007.

  Sherpas:
    Thilen Sherpa, (18-5-1968), Norbugaon, Makalu-5, Everest 7X, Cho Oyu X1, 
      Ama Dablam 2X, Manaslu?, Kangchenjunga?, Baruntse?, Lhotse?, Himlung?
    Nurbu Sherpa, (1978-9), Norbugaon, Makalu-5, summited Ama Dablam Spring 2006?
    Rinji Sherpa, (12-2-1964), Tashigaon, Makalu-5, Everest north 2004 & 2005


expid: AMAD06403
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Guillermo Mateo
sponsor: Ama Dablam Winter Expedition 2007
countries: Colombia
bcdate: 2007-01-16
smtdate: 2007-01-19
smttime: 1730
termdate: 2007-01-21
campsites: BC(16/01,4600m),CI(17/01,5800m),C2(18/01,6000m),Smt(19/01)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Mateo and Garcia went to South Face but found most of it bare rock, not possible for them to climb, so they went to SW Ridge with other members.

  Spanish Ama Dablam expedition, Winter 2006 - 25 Jan 2007

  Mateo went for the summit on 19 January alone. Two others, Gallego and Pardo, went with him from C2 as far as the site for C3, but no camp was established there, so the other two went back to C2. They were not in good condition to go higher, according to Garcia; there were very strong gusts of wind, and it was too cold, they felt; Mateo did not agree that the weather was too severe.

  Members watching him from base camp (and filming him with a video camera) saw him go to the summit at about 5:30 pm or so. He had said that he expected to descend after dark using his head lamp, stopping in C2 or bivouacking above it. They also saw him descending, but they saw him coming down the West Dace, not the team's SW Ridge route. They cannot understand why he descended the face. There had been two big avalanches down the face coming from the Dablam, one late in the morning and another around 1:30 in the afternoon.

  They watched as he started down the West Face, and then about 50 meters below the summit, he fell. He had stopped moving down for a minute or two and then suddenly fell. Garcia says it is likely he was blown over by a strong blast of wind. He fell all the way to the bottom of the West Face, which meant that he was certainly killed in the fall. No attempt was made to recover his body because of the grave avalanche danger.

  Waiting for him in C2 were Gallego and Pardo. Teammates in base camp informed them by walkie-talkie of Mateo's fall, and they descended to base camp the next day, the 20th. The climb was over.


  Carlos Gallego, Jonathan Pardo, Jesus Gutierrez, 28 Jan, 2007

  Gallego, Pardo and Mateo went for the summit on 19 Jan directly from C2 without fixing any ropes and without pitching C3. They wanted to climb in alpine style as much as they could, and to carry as light loads as possible above C2 in order to move quickly and get to the summit and back as early as possible.

  The three climbers reached the site for C3 at 3:30 pm, and here Gallego and Pardo decided it was too late to continue to the top and return to C2 safely (although all three had headlamps with them), and it was too cold and windy to continue up. But Mateo was obsessed with his determination to go to the summit immediately, despite the fact that they had plenty of time to return to C2, rest a couple of days, and then make a summit bid. (They were not scheduled to leave Nepal until 16 Febuary). Mateo said it was not cold or windy or too late, and he was going up. He was a very experienced Himalayan climber, and they thought maybe he could succeed.

  Gallegeo and Pardo do not know why he started his descent via the West Face. Perhaps he decided he had no time to reach C2 on the ridge without fixed ropes and thought he could find a better place for a bivouac on the face, maybe in one of the crevasses above the Dablam (big serac).

  What caused him to fall? Perhaps he moved over to fixed ropes left there by a Japanese team in the autumn to cut some of it for use in his descent, and misstepped. But they don't understand why hadn't taken with him the rope that Pardo had in his backpack. Was he so obsessed with getting to the top that he rushed off without it? (And without any food?)

  Or perhaps he lost his balance, or was blown off balance, while working looking down the face to see a crevasse suitable for his bivouac.


expid: CHOY06381
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Australia
leaders: Bruce Gibbens
sponsor: Dream Team Cho Oyu Expedition 2006
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2006-09-03
smtdate: 2006-09-17
termdate: 2006-09-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to apparent exhaustion
campsites: BC(03/09,4900m),ABC(07/09,5500m),C1(16/09,6400m),C2(17/09,7200m),xxx(17/09,7200m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 5 Sept at 5500m.

  Gibbens wrote in his email of 8 Jan 2007 that he only got to C2 (when he did not say). According to Billi's conversation with Puxbaumer on 9 Jan 2007, she wrote that Puxbaumer met Gibbens descending from C1 on 18 Sept. He told Billi that Gibbens was carrying oxygen but he did not use it. Gibbens probably had left ABC on 20 Sept and arrived Kathmandu on 21 Sept, and left Nepal on 23 Sept. Gibbens might have used C1 on 16 Sept and reached C2 on 17 Sept.

  According to Puxbaumer Gibbens was descending from C1 on 19 Sept when Puxbaumer was ascending from ABC to C1. Gibbens had stayed the night at C1 but he seemed exhausted on his way down. 

  Puxbaumer believes he left ABC the following day (20 Sept) to return to Kathmandu.


expid: LHOT06402
peakid: LHOT
year: 2006
route1: South Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Osamu Tanabe
sponsor: JAC-Tokai Winter Lhotse Expedition 2006
bcdate: 2006-11-13
smtdate: 2006-12-27
termdate: 2007-01-01
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
campsites:
  BC(13/11,5200m),C1(21/11,5900m),C2(01/12,7100m),TempC3(06/12,7250m),C3(21/12,8000m),xxx(27/12,8475m)

routememo:
  BC at west side of Lhotse Glacier
  C1 on South Face of bottom of rock wall
  C2 on South Face
  Temp III on South Face
  C3 on South face.

  Japanese Lhotse Expedition - Winter 2006

  Team made a temporary C3 at 7350m on 6 Dec and retreated to base camp, where they were pinned down from 7 to 12 December by very strong wind. On 13th they started up again and made their permanent C3 at about 8000m on the 21st.

  Their route was the same as Tanabe's 2003 winter route. This meant moving up and over to the left above C2's 7100m to 7250m and then up to the right to C3 at 8000m.

  Their first bid for the summit was made on 22-24 Dec by Kenmochi, Senda and Pema Chhiring, with one Korean team member, An Chi-Young. They reached 8200m on the 24th and turned back: the route was very difficult, there was a lot of rockfall and many Sherpas were tired.

  The second summit party, Tanabe, Yamaguchi and Pemba Chhoti, then took over the summit push on 25-27 December. They started up from C3 at 7:00 am on the 27th. There was a very steep rock wall between C3 and the summit; they traversed diagonally to the left from a direct line to the summit because this way was easier to climb. At 3:35 pm Yamaguchi reached the summit ridge at an 8475m summit that is just east of the main summit; it is the summit that is on their right side as climbers emerge from the top of the couloir via the normal West Face route (the main summit is to their left). At 4:00 pm Tanabe and Pemba Chhoti joined him on this lower summit.

  Their lower summit was 200-300 meters from the main summit as the crow flies. To reach it they would now have to descend along the summit ridge about 50-100 meters and then ascent the ridge about 100-150 meters to the main summit. The weather was all right: clouds were coming in on their side of the mountain that afternoon, and there was light snowfall, but the weather didn't worry them because the mountain's west side was clear, and on this day oxygen supply was almost exhausted. They would take two or three hours to reach the main summit. They didn't try. They returned to C3 at 8:00 pm.

  Now came the decision whether to make a third summit bid or give up. Tanabe favored another attempt after one week, but Senda reported from base camp that Sherpa opinion was against it; they were tired and "their condition was not so good." The other two members were unfit to try: Fujikawa's fingers were slightly frostbitten when he went to 6500m on 23 or 24 December, and Yamamoto had such a bad cough that he cracked some ribs on 5 Dec (but nonetheless went to C2 on the 23rd). The decision was taken on the 28th to abandon the climb.

  This was the third time Tanabe had led a winter expedition to the South Face of Lhotse. He said he would not go to the face again: the summit he had reached was good enough.

  Many Sherpas were hit and bruised on their arms and legs by the falling rock. Kenmochi was also hit but not seriously hurt, and a rock struck the rucksack on Tanabe's back. Everybody wore helmets. One Sherpa, Mingma Tshering, from Beding, got a serious throat infection.

  Summit team's Sherpas:
    Pema Chhiring, 17/12/83 (2/9/2040), Beding, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X2, Lhotse X1
    Pemba Chhoti, 27/1/81 (14/10/2037), Beding, Everest X4

  Oxygen: They had 60 bottles of oxygen and all were used. The Japanese members used it up from C2 (7100m), but not in descent. Sherpas used it up from 8000m but not in descent.


expid: KTEG01101
peakid: KTEG
year: 2001
route1: S Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Paul Ramsden
sponsor: British Kangtega Expedition
bcdate: 2001-04-04
termdate: 2001-04-18
termnote: Abandoned due to unjustifiable risk of objective danger
campsites: BC(04/04,4400m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Decided intended route was too dangerous and so never attempted it - did not set foot on Kangtega. 

  Made reconnaissance to 5600m on unnamed peak as their only climbing.


expid: HCHI06301
peakid: HCHI
year: 2006
route1: N Face-NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Toshiya Nakajima
ascent1: 3rd
approach: Tingri->Everest BC
bcdate: 2006-10-15
smtdate: 2006-11-01
smttime: 1550
termdate: 2006-11-05
campsites: BC(15/10,5140m),ABC(21/10,5800m),C1(24/10,6000m),C2(30/10,6600m),Smt(01/11)
accidents: None
agency: None
routememo:
  Tamotsu Nakamura (by email) - 14 Jun 2007 & 24 Oct 2007

  BC  at 5140m, same as Qomolangma BC - October 15
  ABC at 5800m on moraine in the left bank of glacier - October 21
  C1  at 6000m on crevasse zone of sanctuary - October 24
  C2  at 6600m on the Northwest Ridge - October 30
  T.  Nakajima and T. Momose stood atop on November 1


  Hungchi From Tibet Side, by Toshiya Nakajima

  Hungchi, the 7011m peak named Gyuba Tshomotse by Nepali, is a fascinatingly steep peak located at the border ridge of Khumbu massif. It was first climbed in 2003 from Nepalese side by Osaka Eiho Alpine Club (see JAN Vol. 5, May 2004) but still remained unscaled through Tibet side, which tempted me to make another trial on its North Face despite of my first failed attempt in autumn 2003.

  Thus I led the comeback party consisted of 5 men in 2006 and succeeded in first climb of the new route and the second ascent on Hungchi. The party, including 21 porters, 2 Chinese guides, 400 kg gears and foods, started Qomolungma BC, trudged along east moraine of Rongbuck Glacier and entered into West Rongbuck Glacier. Everything looked quite unchanged in this deserted area, except that there still remained some guide flags set by the 2003 party. 
   
  We set ABC at the foot of Nup La, and then C1 at the base of Hungchi's north wall. Water flows on the lower glacier basin and deep snow on the upper part hampered us to make smooth progress.  300m fixed rope was required to set for crossing crevasses on the way to C1.

  Next step was to climb the north wall. 4 days' works needed to go through it. On 1st day, Momose and I waded through deep snow up to the dead-end of the basin from where we started to climb the wall previous time, and found huge ice blocks scattered there. Apparently we were exposed to avalanche risks, therefore we needed to look for another line to go up, which should be nothing but a hard direct wall climb although free from collapse of seracs pushed out high above.
   
  On 2nd day, Momose and I carried out 200m rope-fixing, in addition to 100m fixed rope set previous day, then on 3rd day Sekiya and I made endless efforts to fix another 180m rope. At last on 4th day, Momose, Sekiya and I finished tough negotiation to go through the wall while extending fixed-rope another 100m, and then pitched C2 on the Northwest Ridge.

  On the following day, Momose and I left C2 for a summit bout. The Northwest Ridge was like a wide staircase. In order to go up each step of the stairs you had to traverse to its right-side edge (i.e., windward Nepal side), which meant to repeat time-consuming big detours. Clear sky seen in the morning gradually disappeared and then it turned into a harsh blizzard. Strong wind hastily began to scratch out our footprints on the stair field and our return guideposts should be wiped away before long. Perhaps the sooner we retreat the better. So we decided to go down leaving climbing gears there.

  The day dawned on November 1st. Weather was still bad, we felt quite exhausted with struggle up to this day and had almost run out foods. Only a cup of soup and some coffee were left for our breakfast. Nevertheless we were high-spirited enough to catch our last opportunity. Started at 8:30, we somehow reached the depot, from where we stretched 200m fixed rope, and climbed the summit rock without rope support. At 15:50, I stood on the corniced top and soon Momose followed me.

  Members:
    Masakatsu Nakamura (General Director, age: 62)
    Toshiya Nakajima (Leader, 41)
    Takayuki Momose (Deputy Leader, 60)
    Yukihisa Akada (38)
    Yoshikazu Sekiya (54)

  Summary Diary:
   
  October  15: Qomolungma BC established
           18: RC1
           19: RC2
           20: RC3
           21: ABC at the foot of Nup La
           24: C1 at the base of the North wall
           30: C2 on the Northwest Ridge
           31: First summit bout failed
  November  1: Second summit bout succeeded
            2: Returned ABC
            4: Returned BC


expid: AMAD07101
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Jay Reilly
sponsor: SummitClimb Ama Dablam Expedition 2007
countries: Greece, Sweden, UK
bcdate: 2007-04-21
smtdate: 2007-05-01
termdate: 2007-05-06
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(21/04,4600m),ABC(26/04,5300m),C1(28/04,5800m),C2(01/05,6000m),xxx(01/05,6300m)
accidents: Kiriakakis mild pulmonary edema at C1 and down to BC
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  "Snow incredibly deep," knee-deep coming down from C2 on 2 May to BC. Weather marginal to 1 May and then 6-8 inches new snow on 1 May. On 2 May they were due to go to C3 and Sherpas had gone there on 1 May and found Koreans ropes under 6 inches in hard blue ice; fixed ropes and down. On 4 May Sherpas again up from C2, again now ropes under 6 inches snow, hard blue ice and powder snow on top of ice, unclimbable. No one slept above C2, but 2 Sherpas to 6300m on 1st May, their highest point. When Sherpas went up to C2 on 9 May and found it crushed under snow and ropes under blue ice, members gave up: Cahill thought too dangerous to continue.

  McGilveray and Thomas bored by mountain and went trekking; Kiriakakis sick; and Strand having trouble with wife & wanted to go home.

  Sherpas:  
    Nima Sherpa, 18/3/80 (5/12/2036), Bishinga, Okhaldhunga, no 8000ers
    Ang Chera Sherpa, 22/4/76 (10/1/2033), Patle, Okhaldhunga, no 8000ers


expid: AMAD07102
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: N Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: David Goettler
sponsor: Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 2007-04-13
smtdate: 2007-04-20
termdate: 2007-04-21
termnote: Abandoned at 5650m due to Baudrexl's injury from falling rock
othersmts: Partial climb of Chhukung Ri (to acclimatize)
campsites: BC(13/04,4763m),xxx(20/04,5650m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking?
routememo:
  First acclimatized on Chhukung Ri to point 5559m twice, then on to attempt Ama Dablam. Started for North Ridge 19 April from Chhukung to US expedition's BC. 20th both members started up ridge and at 5600m, Baudrexl was hit on right shoulder by falling rock, possibly by rock knocked off by Goettler.


expid: AMAD07103
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Simone Moro
sponsor: North Face Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 2007-04-16
smtdate: 2007-04-19
termdate: 2007-04-20
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to bad conditions
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak 15 Apr (both members)
campsites: BC(16/04,4500m),C1(18/04,5800m),xxx(19/04,5900m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Bad conditions on mountain on Apr 19; snow on rocks and slippery, so abandonded climb because Salzburger had no time to wait for better conditions. Moro fixed ropes from 5800m to 5900m from C1 but now decided to abandon climb and weather didn't look like improving.

  Sherpa:
    Rinzi Sherpa, 1964-5, Patle-6, Okhaldhunga, no 8000ers


expid: AMAD07104
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: NE Spur (up); SW Ridge (down)
nation: USA
leaders: James Cromie
sponsor: HAFE Research Group 2007 Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Dingboche->Shangtse->Ama Dablam Glacier
bcdate: 2007-03-27
smtdate: 2007-04-22
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2007-04-30
campsites: BC(27/03,5050m),ABC(01/04,5550m),Smt(22/04)
accidents: Slight frostbite by both
agency: Global Adventure Trekking
routememo:
  BC at base of NE Spur near point 5057m on west side of moraine
  ABC at Col camp above 1st buttress.

  Summit push from BC on 12 April and bived at 5900m on spur at junction of this spur and North Ridge. 13th reached 6100m biv, 14th to 6150m (not great progress because snowy weather and ahead of schedule and good place to biv). 15th to 6250m, 16th to 6350m - only 100m that day because of technical difficulty and because would fix a pitch using 60m ropes, then descend to bring up backpack to site of next biv and bring up ropes to repeat pattern next day. 17th at 6350m because at crux of route and spent time putting up ropes in mixed terrain which was very difficult. 18th to 6450m, 6500m on 19th, and 20th to 6590m, 6700 on 21st and 22nd slept on summit (4:00 pm on top) waiting for daylight to see [SW Ridge] route they hadn't climbed and which no one this season had come up, so had to fix own ropes and use double rappels in descent [of SW Ridge]. 23rd to slightly below C3 and 24th to C2, then 25th to Pangboche. Slow descent because bad visibility, feeling their way. Missed BC site which couldn't be seen in clouds.

  HAFE = "High Altitude Flatus Explusion"


expid: AMAD07105
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Park Hung-Chul
sponsor: 2007 High Rock Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-02
smtdate: 2007-04-14
termdate: 2007-04-16
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to strong wind, cloudy and snowfall
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East on 20 April (Ha and Park with two Sherpas)
campsites: BC(02/04,4500m),C1(11/04,5800m),C2(12/04,6100m),C3(13/04,6300m),xxx(14/04,6600m)
agency: NE-KO Treks
routememo:
  C3 below the original campsite (far right).

  Kim Wui-Han, Park, Thilen and Nurbu left C3 at 08:00 hours, reached 6600m at 13:00 hours, but strong wind, cloudy and snowfall made the climbers turn around and back to C2 where they arrived at 18:00 hours. Next day to BC. 

  Ha went up to C2 on 12 April spent a night then descended to BC due to headache. 
  Kim Hong-Yeob climbed up to C2 and spent a night, was exhausted, descended to BC. 
  Lee too climbed up to C2, spent night there, had bad dream, then descended to BC. 
  Yeon went up to C1, he is a supporting member. 

  The original C3 site was full of snow blocks and very dangerous for avalanche. C2 tent that was moved to C3. There was no fixed tent at C2. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 23 April and plans to leave on 25 April.


expid: AMAD07106
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: David Jacquemard
sponsor: Frenchman on Ama Dablam
approach: Gokyo->Cho La->BC
bcdate: 2007-05-01
smtdate: 2007-05-09
termdate: 2007-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to bad weather, not enough time
campsites: BC(01/05,4700m),C1(05/05,5700m),C2(09/05,5900m),xxx(09/05,5900m)
agency: Churen Himal Treks
routememo:
  Jacquemard and Suman left C1 at 8 am on 9 May. Weather was bad - it was snowing, and there was a lot of fresh snow. They reached C2 at noon. The next day they descended to BC. Weather still bad. On 11 May they ascended back to C1. But left next day due to bad weather.

  Jacquemard thinks if weather had been better it would have been possible even though section between C2 and C3 looked tricky (very rocky).


expid: AMAD07108
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Carlos Soria
sponsor: Spaniards on Ama Dablam
bcdate: 2007-04-16
smtdate: 2007-04-29
termdate: 2007-05-09
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to too much snowfall
campsites: BC(16/04,4650m),ABC(20/04,5400m),C1(23/04,5800m),xxx(29/04,6100m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Parajuli)
routememo:
  3 members and Sherpa went to C2 on 29 April and put tent there and down to C1 as part of acclimatization. 7 May same party again to C2 site to bring down gear only; too much snow on route and weather not favourable: everyday for 20 days snowfall began at 11:00 am. 6 May slept in C1 with plans to go to C2 on 7th if good weather; if not good weather, then to abandon climb; on 7 May up from C1 to bring down gear.

  Sherpa:
    Sona Dendu Sherpa, 5/10/60, Khumjung


expid: AMAD07110
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Andreas Neureiter
sponsor: Austrians on Ama Dablam
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-27
smtdate: 2007-05-04
termdate: 2007-05-09
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to heavy snow and lack of time
campsites: BC(27/04,4400m),ABC(31/04,5270m),C1(03/05,5800m),xxx(04/05,6200m)
agency: Himaland Adventure Treks
routememo:
  Neureiter and Russegger went up to 6200m (C2), left deposit, then back to C1 to sleep on 4 May. Snow conditions were bad and decided to give up climbing on 5 May. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 12 May and will leave on 14 May.


expid: AMAD07111
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Giampietro Verza
sponsor: Italians on Ama Dablam
approach: Lukla->Pangboche
bcdate: 2007-04-26
smtdate: 2007-05-01
termdate: 2007-05-04
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to bad weather, not enough time
campsites: BC(26/04,4500m),C1(28/04,5600m),C2(01/05,5900m),xxx(01/05,5900m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Alemanno, Forcatura and Verza and two climbing Sherpas Sete & Rinji left C1 on 1 May at 7:30 am. Weather was good but a lot of fresh snow. They reached C2 at 1 pm. On 2 May it snowed about 20 cm and team descended to BC. They did not dismantle camps, but Sete & Rinji went back up on 3 May to take down both camps.

  Pesci and Zulian reached 5000m on 28 April. Neither of them was feeling well, so they turned back to BC. They gave it another go on 30 April but turned back at 4800m due to bad weather. They left BC on 1 May and went to Italian Research station, the "Pyramid." They were picked up by helicopter on 4 May. The same helicopter picked up Alemanno & Forcatura from BC. Verza left BC by foot on 5 May. 

  Verza thinks that old C3 is impossible to establish due to the avalanche that came down in autumn 2006. The serac is obviously cracked and could come down any minute. Sherpas refuse to sleep there. He thinks summit push only possible from C2.

  Verza and Sete Tamang also say that there is not enough snow and ice on upper part of Ama Dablam which has made route more difficult. It's more rocky with big steps.


  Email from Giampietro Verza - 4 May 2007

  Just after sunset Ama Dablam became visible, its about 5 days the mountain was not visible from BC in the evening.

  Today our Sete and Rinji Sherpa made a long trip, up to C2, directly from BC.

  To exchange for the first time "light signals" between BC and C2 has been exciting, it gives you the real dimension of the mountain.

  They climb something like about 1500m from 4400m up to 5900m, in order to clear our 2 camps.
  At the same time a similar effort is expected if anybody wants to summit this year on this mountain. On the very elegant granite peak 7 lifes were lost last winter, with a huge ice avalanche, and now new difficulties has to be faced for the top.

  1) this spring the route is covered with very small snow, this means that in many places you've just to deal with efforting rock steps, where normally its an easy walk on the snow.
  2) the ideal site for C3, at about 6500m, is now exposed to icefalls, the serac that lies on the final ice slope is dangerously cracked and all Sherpas refuse to stop under this evident danger.
  3) the only solution will be to face a climb of about 1000m from C2 to summit, without stopping under the serac. Taking also in account a long and technical descent.

  Sherpas:
    Rinzi Sherpa, 1964-5, Patle-6, Okhaldhunga, no 8000ers
    Sete Tamang, 1971-2, Lapcha, Gorakhani-8, no 8000ers


expid: AMAD07107
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Annelies Danielle Vos
sponsor: Dutchwoman on Ama Dablam
approach: Lukla->Namche->Gokyo->Lobuche->Gorakshep-BC
bcdate: 2007-04-30
smtdate: 2007-05-07
smttime: 5900
termdate: 2007-05-10
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(30/04,4500m),C1(05/05,5700m),C2(07/05,6000m),xxx(07/05,6000m)
agency: Asian Heritage
routememo:
  Vos left C1 for C2 around 8 am on 6 May. She reached about 5900m around 12 noon. She found the snow condition was very bad then turned around to C1 at 1 pm. Vos's helping climber Suman Gurung slept at C2 on 7 May. His high point is 6000m. Vos's high point was 5900m. 

  Vos returned to  Kathmandu on 13 May and will leave on 18 May.

  Hired:
    Suman Gurung (27-9-1985) Laprak-7, Gorkha 
      No expeditions so far, only climbed trekking peaks


expid: AMAD07113
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Peter Hickersperger
sponsor: Sportler Alpin House Ama Dablam
approach: Lukla
bcdate: 2007-05-08
smtdate: 2007-05-12
termdate: 2007-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6520m due to bad weather and bad conditions
campsites: BC(08/05,4600m),C1(12/05,5750m),C2(12/05,6000m),xxx(17/05,6520m)
agency: High Country Trekking
routememo:
  17 May Bitriol and Mathis left C2 at 3 am. Weather was clear. They reached C3 at 9:30 am. Weather started to deteriorate and as it did not get any better, they turned back and descended to C1 and arrived at 6 pm. On 18 May back to BC.

  Schaefer and Hickersperger reached C1 on 13 May, did not stay the night. Hickersperger, Schafer, Bitriol and Mathis all turned back to BC. Hickersperger was not feeling well. He had a fever. Schaefer decided to go back to Kathmandu with Hickersperger as he was his climbing partner. They left BC on 15 May. On 12 May Bitriol and Mathis set up C1 and carried on to C2 to stay night.


expid: AMAD07114
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Eduardo Cisneros
sponsor: Evasion Ama Dablam 2007
countries: Argentina
approach: Lukla->Pangboche
bcdate: 2007-05-07
smtdate: 2007-05-16
termdate: 2007-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to bad weather, bad conditions
campsites: BC(07/05,4700m),C1(11/05,5700m),C2(16/05,6100m),xxx(16/05,6100m)
agency: Ang Rita Treks
routememo:
  Team left C1 at 6:30 am in the morning [16 May]. Weather was good but there was new snow on the ground. They got to C2 at midday. It had started snowing in the afternoon. They wanted to push for summit from C2 but they thought it was impossible in these conditions. Too much snow and it would have taken too long. They left C2 in morning to descend to C1 on 17 May. Stayed one night in C1, where it was raining!! They descended to BC 18 May.


expid: AMAD07115
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Daniel Schliefensteiner
sponsor: Swiss Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Canada
approach: Lukla->Island Peak->BC
bcdate: 2007-05-12
smtdate: 2007-05-17
termdate: 2007-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to route too difficult, too long west of C3
campsites: BC(12/05,4580m),C1(16/05,5800m),xxx(17/05,6100m)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  High point team left C1 at 7 am on 17 May. When they reached 6100m Schliefsteiner decided that group was not up to the climb and made them turn back. They turned back at 10 am. Schliefsteiner and Couture stayed at C1, where they arrived at 2 pm. Aubert carried on to BC, where they arrived at 6 pm. The next day other two members arrived at BC.

  Villet reached C1 (5800m) on 16 May. He did not feel well and descended to BC same day. He remained at BC for remainder of expedition.


expid: AMAD07109
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Georgia
leaders: Bidzina Gujabidze
sponsor: Ama Dablam Georgian Expedition 2007
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->C1
bcdate: 2007-05-14
smtdate: 2007-05-22
termdate: 2007-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to strong wind and bad weather
campsites: C1(15/05,5100m),C2(21/05,5700m),xxx(22/05,5900m)
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
routememo:
  The weather conditions were not very favorable from the beginning. Too much snow, strong wind, no other expeditions. Fixed ropes under the snow and not very reliable.

  20 May climbed to 5100m by both members together
  21 May up to 5700m, very strong wind
  22 May reached 5900m about 8:30 and came down to Pangboche.


expid: AMAD07112
peakid: AMAD
year: 2007
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Israel
leaders: Ephraim Gur
sponsor: Israeli on Ama Dablam
approach: Lukla->Kalapattar->Everest BC->BC of Ama Dablam
bcdate: 2007-05-02
smtdate: 2007-05-06
termdate: 2007-05-09
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to headache and slight altitude sickness
campsites: BC(02/05,4600m),ABC(05/05,5600m),C1(06/05,5700m),xxx(06/05,6300m)
accidents: HAS -(headache)
agency: Himalayan Society
routememo:
  Gur and Ongchhu Sherpa reached C1 at 12 noon on 6 May. They had food and rest. They were supposed to climb further next day. Gur told Ongchhu that Gur had headache. At 5 pm they descended to BC at 9 pm. Gur went to C1 site again on 8 May but again did not sleep there. On 10 May Gur and Ongchhu arrived Lukla. 11th to Kathmandu domestic terminal from there to International terminal. Ongchu saw off Gur at International Airport. Gur did not come to city.

  Gur went to C1 on 6 May but did not sleep there. High point for Ongchhu was C3 site on 6 May while pitching C3. He did not sleep at C3. Ongchhu said Gur stayed in a hotel near Potala Guest House inside little lane but he does not know the name of the hotel.


expid: ANN107101
peakid: ANN1
year: 2007
route1: S Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Ueli Steck
sponsor: Annapurna South Face
countries: Germany
bcdate: 2007-05-03
smtdate: 2007-05-21
termdate: 2007-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 5850m due to Steck's accident
othersmts: Climbed Pumori (PUMO-071-01) and Cholatse
campsites: BC(03/05,4200m),ABC(06/05,4680m),xxx(21/05,5850m)
accidents: Steck hit by falling rock
agency: Royal Orchid Treks
routememo:
  ABC on glacier below South Face
  High point at South Face.

  21 May Steck left ABC 7:00 am, waiting for clouds to clear on face and up to about 5850m (doesn't know exactly because no memory of incident) where he was hit on head by rock which shattered his helmet. No blood flowed but he was concussed and still has headache constantly - "helmet saved my life." Fell to 5500m glacier and was completely lost when became conscious again. "It was a pretty close call" said Oelz. Big white-out and didn't know where he was but after a while found crevasses and turned left and eventually Boesch met him. Steck could see his marker wand in distance. He was badly bruised especially back of head and spinal area; saw no rock fall before incident. This route is climbable says Steck but he doesn't know now whether he will go back to it again.

  Support staff:
    Boesch went up to 5700m bottom of face;
    Oelz and Schwerzmann ABC only
    Roth and Wulzinger BC only.


expid: ANN107102
peakid: ANN1
year: 2007
route1: N Face
nation: Australia
leaders: Andrew Lock
sponsor: Australian on Annapurna I
ascent1: 48th w/Spanish
approach: Helicopter to BC
bcdate: 2007-05-01
smtdate: 2007-05-24
smttime: 1520
termdate: 2007-05-28
achievment: 1st Australian
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
campsites:
  BC(01/05,4300m),C1(5100m),C2(07/05,5600m),C2.5(10/05,6200m),C3(21/05,6600m),C4(23/05,7100m),Smt(24/05)

routememo:
  C2.5 on top of serac
  C3 under serac.

  Lock, Pasaban, Izagirre, Vallejo, Gonzalez-Rubio, Sergei Bogomolov and Emil Mamedov went to C2 from BC in about 8 hours. They stayed 3 nights there due to bad  weather. On 10 May Lock went up German Ridge. Ropes had been fixed by Spanish and Russian team previously. That day they reached about 6400m but it was already 4 pm and realized that it was too late to get to C3. They descended to top of serac at 6200m and set up C2.5. On 11 May they re-ascended and fixed to 6600m. Deposit of equipment. There was electrical storm. Lock was with Vallejo and Gonzalez. Descended to BC on 11 May, arrived at 7 pm.

  They stayed till 20 May at BC and waited for conditions to improve. On 20 May entire Spanish team, Sergei and Lock went to C2. Conditions were Ok, snow deep, but settled. On 21 May Lock and everybody else ascended to C3. Everybody stayed at C3 that night. C3 was placed under huge serac. They placed camp under handle of sickle. Irregular serac fall left and right of camp, very dangerous. On 22 May everybody apart from Lock, Vallejo, Gonzalez and Bogomolov descended to BC. Remaining team opened route to C4. Very technical climbing. Bogomolov developed snow blindness during night and stayed at C3 whilst Lock, Vallejo and Gonzalez went up to C4. Bogomolov escaped serac fall as he had moved into Spanish tent; site of his and Lock's tent was hit by serac fall.

  On 23 May Lock and two South Americans ascended technical route (overhanging icefall) in deep snow. They set up C4 at 7100m, 300m below normal C4.

  On 24 May team left C4 at 4:30 am. It was very cold. They left at daylight as route was not clear. They took the couloir route that took them almost directly to summit. In hindsight it was very dangerous as route was very slabby. Lock thought it was suicide!! Slabs about from 7800m to top. When they got to summit they had to belay each other up the last 5 meters. It was impossible to stand on summit as it was knife-sharp ridge. 

  Descended down to C4 and arrived at 8 pm. Descent Ok but couloir dangerous. On 25 May descended to BC.

  Pasaban, Izagirre, Vallejo, Gonzalez-Rubio belonged to Edurne Pasaban's Spanish team; Bogomolov and Mamedov from anothers team led by Bogomolov.


expid: ANN107103
peakid: ANN1
year: 2007
route1: N Face
nation: Georgia
leaders: Gia Tortladze, Sergei Bogomolov
sponsor: Annapurna International Spring 2007
countries: Russia, Ukraine
approach: Beni->Tatopani->Lete->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-19
smtdate: 2007-05-21
termdate: 2007-04-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to bad weather, avalanching
campsites: BC(19/04,4300m),C1(22/04),C2(23/04,5600m),C3(21/05,6400m),xxx(21/05,6400m)
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC all members
  C1 all members
  C2 all members
  C3 by Bogomolov
  High point at C3.

  Gia Tortladge reached C2 on 23 April, returned to BC same day and decided to abandon due to bad weather conditions and avalanches. Left BC on 30 April and reached Kathmandu on 6 May.

  Emil Mamedov reached high point of 6200m on 5 May, abandoned climb due to weather and wind. Left Kathmandu on 23 May.

  Sergei Bogomolov reached C3 on 21 May, returned to BC on 22 May. Left BC by helicopter on 28 May and left Kathmandu same day. Bogomolov did not go above C3 because of bad weather and avalanching.


expid: ANN107104
peakid: ANN1
year: 2007
route1: N Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Inaki Ochoa
sponsor: Inaki Dhaulagiri Expedition
countries: Romania
approach: From Dhaulagiri I BC by helicopter to Lete
bcdate: 2007-05-10
smtdate: 2007-05-22
termdate: 2007-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to avalanche danger
othersmts: Climbed Dhaulagiri I (DHA1-071-11)
campsites: BC(10/05,4200m),C2(21/05,5600m),xxx(22/05,6600m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  High point at top serac above Pasaban's C3.

  Annapurna I expedition led by Inaki Ochoa - Spring 2007 
  Ochoa - 30 May 2007

  From Ochoa's Dhaulagiri I team only Ochoa and Colibasanu went to Annapurna I. Ochoa originally had wanted to go to the NW Face, but to climb that route, he needed a technically very skilled partner, no such person was available, so he went to the North Face.

  The days from 10 to 19 May were spent arriving at BC and moving above it. They were well acclimatized from their Dhaulagiri I ascent and thus needed no ABC or C1, but launched their summit bid from C2 on 22 May.

  The French 1950 route is notorious for avalanching, and this spring was no exception. "The French route is like Russian roulette" under the Sickle's serac, Ochoa said. They decided to away from the French route's Sickle, to climb to the east (left) of the Sickle, go to the German 1974 route from C2 to C3, then move up and westward to the top.

  C3 was overhung by a very dangerous, unstable serac; Ochoa did not want to sleep at that site, but on 22 May he climbed the serac in "the hardest climb of my career" from 6500m up the serac's height of 50 meters or more. Then he decided the risks were too great, and he and Colibasanu turned back and descended all the way to BC. Climb finished.


expid: ANN107105
peakid: ANN1
year: 2007
route1: N Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Edurne Pasaban
sponsor: Al Filo de lo Impossible to Annapurna I
ascent1: 48th w/Australia
countries: Colombia, Ecuador
bcdate: 2007-04-10
smtdate: 2007-05-24
smttime: 1520
termdate: 2007-05-28
accidents: Liaison officer Khanal disappeared
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Parajuli)
campsites:
  BC(10/04,4250m),C1(15/04,5200m),C2(08/05,5700m),C2.5(10/05,6250m),C3(22/05,6400m),C4(23/05,7200m),Smt(24/05)

routememo:
  BC at bottom of North Face
  C1 on North Face
  C2 on North Face
  C2.5 on North Face.

  "Al Filo de lo Impossible" to Annapurna I - Spring 2007 
  Vallejo - 29 May 2007

  The team climbed the original 1960 French route to a little above C1 (5700m), then traversed to the east (left) via the Spanish 1974 route leading to the east summit to 6400m. From C3 at 6400m, they left the Spanish route, moved to the right, crossed a major crevasse and went towards the French route, which they rejoined just above their C4's 7200m location.

  Izagirre, Latorre and Pasaban went to C3's site on 22nd in the team's summit push, but they decided that continuing the climb was too dangerous because the snow was very soft and there was serious danger of avalanching. They descended to BC that day. Vallejo actually agreed with their views about avalanching: "I think it was quite dangerous," but he and Gonzalez-Rubio, plus Australian independent climber Andrew Lock, decided to take the risk and went on up.

  Vallejo, Gonzalez-Rubio and Lock left C4 together at 4:30 am on 24 May, reached the summit at 3:20 pm after having taken two hours to reach the summit from a couloir at 7800m.

  Vallejo had attempted Annapurna before, and it was one of only two 8000ers he had not summited. "I am so happy, so lucky, so grateful to Annapurna" for his success this time.

  The team had no health problems, but their liaison officer Udhav Prasad Khanal left BC on 22 April and completely disappeared, and is presumed dead.


expid: ANN307101
peakid: ANN3
year: 2007
route1: SE Pillar
nation: USA
leaders: Rusty Willis
sponsor: Annapurna III South East Ridge Expedition
approach: Pokhara, up Seti Khola, NW to Pipar, N to ridge of Gholmide Khola
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
routememo:
  On 4th day out Pokhara, on 5 May, on ridge south of Gholmide Khola 21 porters said terrain was too dangerous for them and dumped their loads leaving members and 4-man camp staff and local guide; they set up [temporary] basecamp here. 6 May went north to investigate passes enroute to mountain, but found place where avalanche had taken out trail and returned to base. Now started to rain and snow, which continued for ten days: were in clouds most of time. 11 May members and one Sherpa returned to pass where avalanche had taken out route (hoped to get through pass and see terrain beyond) but started to rain and snow and again back to base. Sent for porters and left base on 14th May to return to Pokhara. Never saw Annapurna III after leaving Pokhara.


expid: ANN407101
peakid: ANN4
year: 2007
route1: NW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Tonya Riggs
sponsor: Annapurna IV-play
approach: Hongde
bcdate: 2007-05-02
smtdate: 2007-05-09
termdate: 2007-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 6280m due to bad weather forecast
othersmts: Chulu Far East
campsites: BC(02/05,4756m),C1(05/05,5365m),C2(07/05,5810m),C3(09/05,6280m),xxx(09/05,6280m)
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  During expedition the weather was unsettled. A lot of clouds and afternoon precipitation. On 9 May team left Wilson at C2 at 9 am and reached C3 at 6 pm. They had 1 day at C3. Wilson received weather forecast from Boulder [Colorado] on 6 May which predicted a violent storm 12 hours later. Even though the team was ready for summit push they decided to go down. They left C3 at 6 am on 11 May. Everybody apart from Riggs and Clement descended to BC. Riggs and Clement spent one night at C1 as they were hoping to go back up. However, due to the bad snow conditions they decided to descend to BC on 12 May to join others.


expid: BARU07101
peakid: BARU
year: 2007
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Brazil
leaders: Waldemar Niclevicz
sponsor: Brazilian Baruntse & Makalu Expedition
countries: Italy
approach: Tumlingtar->Num->Sedua->Tashigaon->Makalu South BC
bcdate: 2007-04-11
smtdate: 2007-04-19
termdate: 2007-04-23
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to deep snow conditions
othersmts: Attempted Makalu (MAKA-071-01)
campsites: BC(11/04,4900m),ABC(14/04,5600m),C1(17/04,6100m),C2(18/04,6600m),xxx(19/04,6900m)
accidents: Gualberto and Silva suffered from altitude sickness
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Rai)
routememo:
  Burda and Niclevicz left C2 at about 5 am on 19 April and reached 6900m at 9 am. There was lots of snow, so it was very difficult to continue; then they gave up. Back to C1 at 1 pm. 

  Clauzet Ferraz de Mello went up to 6100m, then back to ABC.
   
  De Bernardo remained at BC as BC Manager.

  Gualberto went up to 6600m on 18 April, suffered altitude sickness, descended to ABC.

  Silva climbed up to 6100m on 17 April. 

  Gualberto and Silva left BC on 23 April; they left Kathmandu on 7 May. 

  Pemba Jangbu Sherpa only to C2. The rest of the team moved to Makalu BC on 23 April.


expid: CHOY07101
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Rosa Maria Fernandez
sponsor: International Cho Oyu Expedition
countries: Norway
bcdate: 2007-04-17
smtdate: 2007-05-05
termdate: 2007-05-09
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to no more time
campsites: BC(17/04),ABC(20/04,5700m),C1(25/04,6400m),C2(1/05,7200m),xxx(05/05,7900m)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  1st summit attempt on night of May 1/2: all members and 2 Sherpas Dawa Chhiring and Pemba Gombu Sherpa from C2 and to Yellow Band; at 7600m Rodriguez oxygen finished at 10:00 am and spare bottle damaged and thus back to C2; others very cold. Rodriguez, Juvall and Pemba stayed in C2; others to ABC. 

  5 May Joaquin, Rosa, Dawa from ABC to C2. 6 May 2:00 am (NST) started up to Yellow Band and 7900m; on Yellow Band snowing and windy, on top of band weather better but now 10:50 am and very tired and down to ABC at 6:00 pm. Now climb finished - no more time and weather not good. 

  Oxygen used by Rodriguez and Juvall from C2 up to high point (Rodriguez) and Juvall back to C2; Rosa and Pinera not used; 2 Sherpas not used.

  Sherpas: 
    Dawa Chhiri, Kurima, Lokhim, 20/2/67, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2, Makalu X2
    Pemba Gombu, Kurima, 37 years old, no 8000ers


expid: CHOY07102
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Davide Tosi
sponsor: Italians on Cho Oyu
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-16
smtdate: 2007-04-29
termdate: 2007-05-07
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to exhaustion
campsites: BC(16/04,4900m),ABC(18/04,5700m),C1(21/04,6400m),xxx(29/04,7200m)
accidents: Tosi mild edema
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Parajuli)
routememo:
  Maroni went up to C2 on 29 April and deposited their tent, then went back to C1 where he slept the night. On 3 May Maroni went up to C2 from C1; exhausted, he returned to C1 and gave up climbing. 

  Tosi went to C1 on 25 April and slept there; suffered from headache and started vomiting. Next day went down to ABC. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 8 May and will leave on 12.


expid: CHOY07103
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: S Korea
leaders: Oh Eun-Sun
sponsor: Oh Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-16
smtdate: 2007-05-08
smttime: 0844
termdate: 2007-05-10
campsites: BC(16/04,4700m),ABC(18/04,5700m),C1(28/04,6400m),C2(30/04,6800m),C3(07/05,7400m),Smt(08/05)
agency: NE-KO Treks
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 17th at 5300m
  C2 at below normal C2 
  1 May C2 at 7000m.

  Oh left C3 at 01:00 hours NST on 08 May, and reached summit at 08:44 hours. Stayed on summit for about 40/50 minutes to have view of Everest but it was cloudy, so could not see Everest. Descended to C3 around 12:00 hours then to C2 around 15:00 hours. Next day to ABC. 

  Ahead of Miss Oh there was climbed from Kazakhstan and behind her were Kazak, Japanese and another Kazak on the summit on that day. Weather was good till noon time and afternoon. Wind and snowfall almost every day. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 11 May and will leave on 13th or 14th May.

  Miss Kim climbed up to C3 on 7 May. She was exhausted and stayed at C3. 


expid: CHOY07104
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Slovakia
leaders: Josef Kopold
sponsor: Slovak Cho Oyu & Xixabangma Expedition 2007
bcdate: 2007-03-21
smtdate: 2007-03-31
smttime: 0245
termdate: 2007-04-06
othersmts: Climbed Xixabangma (Kopold summited on 24 April)
campsites: BC(21/03,4900m),ABC(23/03,5630m),C1(26/03,6360m),C2(29/03,7000m),Smt(31/03)
accidents: Lazar did not go to mountains; had accident in Kathmandu and went home
agency: Nepal Trans Himalayan Explorer
routememo:
  This team the first to arrive at BC. 29 March summit push from ABC by Kopold and Hudak to C2. 30th Hudak not feeling well and down to ABC while Kopold up to top alone. Kopold left C2 midnight Chinese time and on top 5:00 am (2:45 am NST) and saw summit of Everest above clouds; had gone slightly to left when reached summit plateau and then direct to highest point where there were flags, empty oxygen bottles, etc. Snow conditions good, not very deep and could move quickly. Down to ABC same day, arrived 5:00-6:00 pm. 

  Dutka made summit bid from C1 on 2 April to C2; 3 April to 8100m on snowslope below summit plateau then turned back because of very strong cold wind.

  Hudak on 3rd April up from BC to C1 to C2, rested, then from C2 lost way, went up direct to 8000m instead of normal route to left (had found some old fixed ropes). At 8000m at 9:00 pm, getting dark and down to C2. 4th April to ABC and climb finished.

  Went to Xixabangma: wanted to make new route on South Face but weather reports of unstable weather and were only 3 climbers with different climbing tempos, so repeated Doug Scott (British) route on South Face. Arriveed BC on 14 April at 5300m. Alpine style climb by Kopold and Hudak. 2 bivs above BC at 6400m on 22 April and 7200m on 23 April. 24th Kopold on top at about 4:00 pm: when he was 50m below top, looked back and saw Hudak was descending and this last he was seen: at 7600m found Hudak's ice axe and marks in snow indicated he fell at this steep area, unable to stop himself without ice axe. No idea where his body is.


expid: CHOY07105
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Nobukazu Kuriki
sponsor: Team Kuriki Mt Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 2007-04-05
smtdate: 2007-05-08
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2007-05-10
campsites: BC(05/04),ABC(09/04,5700m),C1(15/04,6400m),C2(23/04,7200m),C3(30/04,7700m),Smt(08/05)
agency: Bochi Bochi Treks
routememo:
  Kuriki up from C3 at 11:30 pm NST and on top 9:30 am in cloud with no visibility, but found many prayer flags and katas in snow (no wind, just clouds); down to C2 at 4:50 pm.

  Kuriki used no oxygen, but both cameraman used oxygen (4 bottles) sleeping 8 nights in C2 (Ishii & Tatsono).

  Kuriki only actual climbing member; 2 cameraman went to C2 only and other 4 members were ABC support people.


expid: CHOY07106
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Michael Waerthl
sponsor: Amical Alpin Cho Oyu Expedition 2007
countries: Austria, France
bcdate: 2007-04-13
smtdate: 2007-05-04
smttime: 0705
termdate: 2007-05-08
campsites: BC(13/04,4950m),ABC(16/04,5780m),C1(22/04,6500m),C2(26/04,7100m),C3(03/05,7500m),Smt(04/05)
accidents: Nothing serious except Schaaf's & Alois Zauner's cerebral edemas
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Rai)
routememo:
  9 members and 3 Sherpas from C3 for top 1:30-2:15 am (NST) in calm windless night; 2 Sherpas turned back at Yellow Band (7700m) because too cold; 4 members on top: Waertl at 7:05 am with excellent view of Everest; other 3 at 10:45 am in fog (Waerthl knows they reached top from their pix of area). Other Sherpa did not leave C3.


  Amical Cho Oyu led by Michael Waerthl - Spring 2007

  On summit day, weather was clear when Waerthl reached the summit, but at about 10:00 am (NST) it closed in with fog/clouds covering the summit plateau. So when Bogenschuetz, Huber and Touboul got to the top at 10:45 am, they had no view. Waerthl descended to C2 at 1:00 pm. Huber returned to C3 at 1:00 pm, while Bogenschuetz and Touboul arrived at C3 at 3:00 pm and 3:30 pm, respectively. Waerthl turned around at 1:00 pm those who were still on their way up because he was afraid they would get lost in the fog.

  Members in the 4 May summit party who did not get to the top:

  1. Frange reached 8100m+, but not feeling well and down to C2 at 2:00 pm.

  2. Janssen was too slow, reached only 7800-7900m, down to C3 at 11:00 am.

  3. Kirchner reached 8100m+, but too late, down to C3 at 5:30 pm.

  4. Schaaf also reached 8100m+, but too late, down to C3 at 5:30 pm. Developed cerebral edema during descent to C3 but insisted he was all right and refused to give himself an injection. Had to be helped to C2 on 5th by two Sherpas, but got better soon.

  5. Schleim reached 8100-8150m, but too late for top and down to C3 at 5:30 pm.

  Members not in the summit party:

  1. Bettinelli spent one night during acclimatization period in C2, but it was a very windy night and he did not return to C2.

  2. Rost got to between C1 and C2 only; was not very strong.

  3. Winkler reached only C1, was not really fit, left team on 26 April.

  4. Zachmann also got to between C1 and C2, then abandoned his climb: it was not something he could actually manage.

  5. Alois Zauner reached ABC only, then developed an incipient case of cerebral edema and left team on 19 April.

  6. Mario Zauner to ABC only, left with his brother Alois.

  Sherpas to Yellow Band: 
    Mingma Dorje, 20/7/63, scaled Cho Oyu?
    Tshering Tashi, 7/12/85, Khumjung, Everest X2


expid: CHOY07107
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Katharina Eigenmann
sponsor: Swiss on Cho Oyu
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-16
smtdate: 2007-05-10
termdate: 2007-05-12
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to strong wind, snowfall
campsites: BC(16/04,5000m),ABC(18/04,5700m),C1(01/05,6400m),C2(08/05,7150m),C3(09/05,7500m),xxx(10/05,7600m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  On 11 May Eigenmann left C3 at 03:30 hours NST. She was climbing together with French climber Ludovic Suzanne. At 04:30 started snowfall and strong wind, thus it was not possible for her to continue. Then descended to ABC at about 14:30 hours. 

  She returned to Kathmandu on 13 May and will leave on 31 May.


expid: CHOY07108
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Gilles Domingot
sponsor: Frenchmen on Cho Oyu
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-16
smtdate: 2007-05-10
termdate: 2007-05-12
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to strong wind and snow
campsites: BC(16/04,5000m),ABC(18/04,5700m),C1(23/04,6400m),C2(27/04,7150m),C3(09/05,7500m),xxx(10/05,7600m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 17th at 5400m.

  On 10 May Suzanne and Swiss woman Eigenmann left C3 at 03:30 hours NST. They reached 7600m at about 04:30 hours. It was windy, cloudy and started snowfall. They turned around to ABC where they reached at about 14:30 hours. 

  Domingot stayed back at C3. He did not want to try for summit in that bad weather condition. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 13 May and will leave on 20th. In between they plan to visit Pokhara and Chitwan.


expid: CHOY07109
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Neil Ward
sponsor: Briton on Cho Oyu
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
smtdate: 2007-05-09
termdate: 2007-05-12
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to strong wind, snow & weather forecast for coming week was not good
othersmts: Attempted Xixabangma
campsites: ABC(04/05,5700m),C1(07/05,6400m),C2(08/05,7150m),C3(09/05,7500m),xxx(09/05,7500m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  On 9 May Ward and Dawa reached to C3, planning to summit next day. Due to strong wind and snowfall it was not possible for them to continue climbing and they descended to ABC where the team reached at 15:00 NST. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 13 May and Ward will leave Nepal on 15th. He is planning to come to climb Makalu in 2008 Spring. 

  Ward said there was one Australian woman (Mountain Guide) summited on 9 May. Ward went to ABC from Sishapangma; did not stay at CBC or IC on Cho Oyu. 

  Sherpa:
    Dawa Gyalzen, 26/9/79, Khenpulving, Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha


expid: CHOY07110
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Kazakhstan
leaders: Alexei Raspopov
sponsor: International Cho Oyu Expedition 2007
countries: Ukraine
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-18
smtdate: 2007-05-08
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2007-05-13
campsites: BC(18/04,5000m),ABC(21/04,5700m),C1(25/04,6400m),C2(30/04,6900m),Smt(08/05)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 20th at 5300m.

  150m fixed rope: used 50m between Rock Band to summit; 100m between C1-C2.

  On 8 May Lavrov, Raspopov and Skopin left together C2 at 01:00 hours. Raspopov reached to the summit at 11:00 hours, followed by Skopin, and last to arrive was Lavrov at 13:00 hours. Raspopov stayed on summit about two and half hours and Lavrov about 30 minutes. The team descended to C2 at 16:00 hours. They had rested at C3 for about two hours. Koreans climber Miss Oh offered Kazakhstani climber tea juice. Next day to ABC. The weather was not good. There was snowfall most of the time and it was cloudy. Raspopov saw Everest may be for 30 seconds; other members did not see Everest. Other members did not see Everest. The climbers who summited on that day were Korean Oh and Japanese.

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 15 May. Lavrov and Skopin will leave on 18 May and Raspopov will leave on 23 May (he will visit Pokhara). 

  Kushnir left ABC on 5 May due to his business reason. He climbed up to C2 on 1st May spent the night there next day to ABC. 

  The oxygen taken by the team was for Kushnir. He was suppose to use it for his summit attempt.


expid: CHOY07111
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Robert Springer
sponsor: 2007 Springer Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 2007-04-12
smtdate: 2007-05-09
termdate: 2007-04-12
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to exhaustion
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(12/04,4724m),ABC(15/04,5639m),C1(18/04,6340m),C2(05/05,6900m),C3(06/05,7100m),C4(08/05,7500m),xxx(09/05,7600m)

routememo:
  Springer set up his C4 (which is usually a C3) at 7500m on 8 May. On 9 May he just walked up about 100m to see the conditions and felt exhausted, turned around to C4. Rested for a while and descended to C3 (C2) around 16:00 hours. Next day to ABC. 

  Springer returned to Kathmandu on 15 May and will leave on 18th.


expid: CHOY07112
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Denmark
leaders: Mette Andersen, Jakob Urth
sponsor: Danes on Cho Oyu
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-12
smtdate: 2007-05-09
termdate: 2007-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 7550m due to bad weather, strong wind, snowfall
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(12/04,4900m),ABC(15/04,5700m),C1(18/04,6000m),C2(19/04,6400m),C3(24/04,7100m),C4(09/05,7550m),xxx(09/05,7550m)

routememo:
  10 May was planned summit push day for Anderson and Urth. Evening of 9 May was good weather, but during the night started strong wind. Waited inside the tent to move for summit in the early morning; till 09:00 hours of 10 May the strong wind did not stop and they decided to descend. Left C3 at 09:00 hours NST, arrived ABC around 16:00 hours. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 15 May and will leave on 25 May. They were trying to change their departure for earlier date but flights are full.


expid: CHOY07114
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Australia
leaders: Alessandra Pepper
sponsor: Australians on Cho Oyu
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-21
smtdate: 2007-05-09
smttime: 1245
termdate: 2007-05-13
accidents: Frostnips on 8 toes by Beachcroft
agency: Nomad Expeditions
campsites:
  BC(21/04,4900m),ABC(24/04,5650m),C1(29/04,6400m),C1.5(05/05,6800m),C2(06/05,7100m),C3(08/05,7500m),Smt(09/05)

routememo:
  C1.5 above icefall.

  Pepper left C3 at 5 am (C1) on her own. It was windy and it was snowing; she met two Italians (probably Davide Tosi & his mate) at Yellow Band but they turned back. After that she did not see anybody else. Climb straightforward but tiring as there was fresh snow. Good views of Everest on summit as weather had cleared. She descend to C3, arrived there at 6 pm. On 10 May she left C3 at noon, reached C1 at 3 pm and ABC at 6:30 pm. Beachcroft reached 6800m on 30 April when he and Pepper climbed to above icefall for acclimatization. They descended to ABC the same day. 

  Beachcroft discovered slight frostnip on 8 of his toes which he thinks he acquired at C1 on 29 April when he went to toilet without shoes!!! Due to his toes, he decided to stay in ABC. 

  Pepper used two Sherpas of Jeffrey Justman's team to help her carry equipment to the camps. 

  Pasang Sherpa & Dendi Sherpa carried her tent, duffel and downsuit from C1 to C2 and all her equipment to C3. 


expid: CHOY07115
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Austria
leaders: Clara Kulich
sponsor: Independent team on Cho Oyu
countries: Germany
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-15
smtdate: 2007-05-14
smttime: 1315
termdate: 2007-05-16
campsites: BC(15/04,4900m),ABC(18/04,5700m),C1(24/04,6400m),C2(01/05,7100m),C3(02/05,7500m),Smt(14/05)
accidents: Kulich's right part of body became senseless
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  On 14 May Kulich and Mayr left C3 around 02:10 hours NST, reached summit at 13:15 hours, stayed on summit for about 20-30 minutes. Kulich called her boyfriend; Mayr called his office in Germany. They saw on the summit a pole and prayer flags. The summit was cloudy, so could not see Everest. Descended to C3 where Mayr reached at 16:00 hours and Kulich at 17:00 hours. Spent night at C3. Next day to ABC. Italian climber Magliano with oxygen and a Sherpa summited two hours ahead of Kulich team. There were no other summit on that day. At beginning of ascent the weather was good. In the afternoon it was cloudy and started snowfall, but no wind. 

  Kulich and Mayr first attempt was on 3 May. but Kulich got sick (half of the right part of her body lost sense and tongue slowed down). Doctor at C3 of Amical team Everhard injected Dexamethazone and after few hours she became normal. She went down to C2 and next day to ABC. The doctor told her that it was not the effect of HAS. She never had headache. Mayr wanted to try for summit that day, but it was late. He slept at C3. 

  Domberger slept at 7100m (C2) on 11 May; he had infection in his upper gum and fever. Next day he went down C1. No more climbing. 

  Koinegg left ABC on 14 May; most of the time he suffered from stomach problem. He went up to 7100m on 30 April but did not sleep there. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 17 May and will leave on 21 May.

  Expedition paid $150 each to Japanese for using ropes.


expid: CHOY07116
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Miroslav Caban
sponsor: 448 (In Four Months, Four Peaks of 8000m)
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-05-10
smtdate: 2007-05-18
termdate: 2007-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to strong wind, snowfall and clouds
othersmts: Attempted Xixabangma (no summit)
campsites: ABC(10/05,5700m),C1(13/05,6400m),C2(16/05,7100m),C3(17/05,7500m),xxx(18/05,7700m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Parajuli)
routememo:
  Due to bad weather team had to put an Intermediate camp at 6800 on 15 May.

  On 18 May Caban and Matiasek left C3 at 04:15 hours/NST. At 07:30 hours they arrived at 7700m, then started strong wind. Both waited for half an hour, but wind did not stop. Caban and Matiasek turned around to C3 where they reached at 09:00 hours; same day descended to ABC at 19:00 hours. Wind was very strong and visibility was poor. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 22 May and will leave on 26 for Islamabad for Broad Peak and K2. Caban said that they spent 42 days trying to climb Xixbangma and almost everyday there was snowfall.


expid: CHOY07118
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Jeffrey Justman
sponsor: Mountain Link Spring Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-27
smtdate: 2007-05-15
smttime: 0815
termdate: 2007-05-17
campsites: BC(27/04,5200m),ABC(30/04,5700m),C1(06/05,6400m),C2(13/05,7100m),C3(14/05,7400m),Smt(15/05)
agency: Nomad Expeditions
routememo:
  Summit team left C3 at 4:30 am on 15 May. Weather was calm and clear. Good views of Everest from top at 10:30 am (CST). Stayed on top for 30 minutes, descended all way to ABC. Arrived at 8 pm (Chinese time). On way down they took down all the camps. 

  Kozlowski and Rexroad reached C1 on 3 May, but did not stay night. Rexroad left ABC as he did not get on with Gallant and missed his family. Kozlowski left ABC on 6 May due to bad cough. 

  Gallant and Lawang Dhondup got to 6900m (just above icefall) and turned back as it was only acclimatization trip. Gallant left on 10 May together with Dhondup. She could not handle expedition psychologically and had falling out with Justman.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Sherpa, Taksindu-3, Solu, 03/09/84, Everest South (19/05/06)
    Dendi Sherpa, Taksindu, Solu, 26 years, 22/1/83, no expeditions, trekking only
    Lawang Dhondup, Taksindu, Solu, 28/1/1964, lives in California, Everst X2, 
      Cho Oyu ?


expid: CHOY07119
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Gavin Bate
sponsor: Adventure Alternative Cho Oyu (Moving Mountains Everest)
countries: Canada, Ireland
bcdate: 2007-03-20
smtdate: 2007-04-16
termdate: 2007-04-25
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to difficult route
othersmts: Attempted Everest (EVER-071-61)
campsites: BC(20/03),ABC(22/03),C1(27/03,6200m),C2(16/04,6800m),xxx(16/04,6800m)
accidents: Nothing except Wall not well at ABC
agency: High Country Trekking
primid: EVER07161
routememo:
  Ice cliffs above 6800m were hard ice and a technical climb and members not skilled enough and not properly equipped in gear for the climb. "Very surprised how difficult it was" according to Russell Brice to Bate; as the Himalaya try out, Cho Oyu will be increasingly difficult technically. Stayed C2 for 2 nights and Bate tried several times to go higher than 6800m but not able to do so.

  McDonagh and Pinfield went up only to C1; not strong enough to go higher. 
  Wall did not climb above BC; not well and left 24 or 25 April.

  Cho Oyu for Bate was acclimatization for Everest.


expid: CHOY07120
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Dick Morse
sponsor: American Cho Oyu Everest Expedition
approach: Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-07
smtdate: 2007-04-29
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2007-05-02
othersmts: Climbed Everest (EVER-071-17) (21 May by Cole, Pemba Rinji Sherpa, Kame Sherpa)
campsites: BC(07/04,5200m),ABC(09/04,5600m),C1(17/04,6400m),C2(21/04,7100m),C3(26/04,7400m),Smt(29/04)
accidents: Frostbite by Morse (will keep his fingers)
agency: Peak Promotion
primid: EVER07117
routememo:
  Morse and Cole left C3 at 2 am on summit day. They had already spent 3 nights at C3. Gregory was sick and wanted to wait and then weather was bad. Summit day started off clear, but cloudy later. They spent two hours on summit. On descent they had a white-out so they were very slow. Cole got to C3 at 9:30 pm. He could not find fixed ropes on Yellow Band. He went back up again and traversed towards the left and down climbed towards the C3. Morse got lost and tried to biv near Yellow Band. But got too cold and tried to find C3, where he arrived at 1:30 am on 26 April. Next day he saw that his fingers were frostbitten. He descended to C2 where the Japanese team helped him thaw his fingers. Cole descended to C1. On 1 May everybody descended to ABC. They left BC on 2 May. Morse left expedition together with Gregory and went back to Kathmandu. Cole and Fetzer went on to Everest North.

  Fetzer got to just below the icefall at 6900m on 21 April. He abandoned expedition as he did not acclimatize well. He descended to ABC that day and stayed there for rest of expedition.

  Gregory got to C3 on 26 April but felt very unwell. He thought he would recover but did not recover. He descended to C1 on 29 April together with Kami Sherpa. Kami Sherpa reached 7600m as he had fixed the ropes.


expid: CHOY07121
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Bulgaria
leaders: Kamen Kolchev
sponsor: Bulgarians on Cho Oyu (IMG)
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-10
smtdate: 2007-05-04
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2007-05-08
campsites: BC(10/04,4700m),ABC(16/04,5600m),C1(21/04,6100m),C2(25/04,7100m),C3(03/05,7400m),Smt(04/05)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  (31 May from on basis of email. This on basis of interview)

  BC  11 April at 4700m
  ABC 16 April at 5700m
  C1  19 April at 6400m
  C2  24 April at 7200m
  C3  3 May at 7600m.

  On 4 May Kolchev, Kolcheva, Totev, Vatev, Tashi Sherpa, Dawa Tenzing Sherpa and the two Tibetans Sherpas Phinzo and Ngawang Dorje left C3 at 01:30 hours. Vatev and Dawa Tenzng reached summit at 09:00 hours; Kolchev, Mrs Kolcheva, Ngawang Dorje, and Phinzo at 10:00 hours; Totev at 11:30 without oxygen. Tashi Tshering summited at 12:15 pm. Climbers stayed on summit between 30-45 minutes. Vatev descended to C2 about 14:00 hours. He took pictures of Everest. Kolchev and Kolcheva descended to C2 at 15:00 hours. Totev descended to C3 spent night there and next day to C1. Kinov turned around from C3 on 3 May as his feet started getting cold. Summit day weather was pretty good but cloudy. When Vatev was on summit there were 6-7 members of German group. There was solo Japanese climber with TV team but he could not summit on that day. The Bulgarian team saw on summit many prayer flags. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 9 May and trying to leave as soon as possible.

  Dankov, Krastev and Kinov got to C3 on 3 May. Their goal on the mountain was to ski but there was not enough snow. They descended to C1 on 3 May by foot. Skiing was impossible (information by Kolochev). However, Ang Jangbu of Great Escapes said all three felt unwell at C3 and descended to C1.

  Sherpas:
    Tashi Tshering, Pangboche, 18/04/70, Everest X11, Cho Oyu X3
    Dawa Tenzing/Da Tenzing Sherpa, Phortse, 22/07/70

  Ngawang Dorje and Phinzo are Tibetans. Ang Jangbu does not have any biodata for them. According to the Phil Crampton, Phinzo summited Cho Oyu with SummitClimb (Crampton,leader) on 3 Oct 2006 [most likely different Phinzo].


expid: CHOY07122
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Miguel Angel Perez
sponsor: Spaniards on Cho Oyu
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-05-05
smtdate: 2007-05-19
smttime: 1145
termdate: 2007-05-23
campsites: BC(05/05,5200m),ABC(07/05,5600m),C1(10/05,6400m),C2(17/05,7050m),C3(18/05,7400m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Chomolungma Pilgrimage
routememo:
  Team left C3 at 2 am on 19 May. Weather was clear to start off with but clouded over later. At 8070m Santin and Coloma realized that it was already 4 pm (Chinese time) and that it was getting too late. Perez had gotten way ahead of them and by the time he reached 8070m [descending] he met Coloma and Santin who were still on way up. They decided to turn back and descend together with Perez. They descended to C3, arrived at 8 pm. On 20 May they dismantled C3 and C2 and stayed at C1. On 21 May descended to ABC. Snow conditions were Ok but not great.


expid: CHOY07123
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Miroslav Hrad
sponsor: Expedition Medea Cho Oyu & Everest 2007
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-04
smtdate: 2007-04-25
termdate: 2007-04-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to snow and alone
othersmts: Attempted Everest (EVER-071-27)
campsites: BC(04/04,5700m),ABC(06/04,5700m),C1(09/04,6400m),C1.5(12/04,6800m),C2(23/04,7100m),xxx(25/04,7300m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
primid: EVER07127
routememo:
  Hrad left C2 at 3 am (CST) on 25 April, reached 7300m at 5 am, then descended to ABC approximately at 5 pm. Snow conditions were bad - everyday some snow and wind. 

  Mulac went up to 6900m on 13th, then descended to ABC (he was not feeling good, but it was not HAS).

  Needed C1.5 because only two people to carry all loads.


expid: CHOY07124
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Alberto Magliano
sponsor: Vatellina 2007 Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-17
smtdate: 2007-05-02
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2007-05-04
campsites: BC(17/04,4860m),ABC(20/04,5650m),C1(23/04,6350m),C2(26/04,6950m),C3(08/05,7400m),Smt(02,14/05)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  On 1 May Confortola and Mondinelli left ABC at 14:30 hours NST. They had rest at C1 for two hours; reached C2 at 01:00 hours on 2 May. After a while left C2. Mondinelli reached summit at 09:00 hours. Mondinelli had to wait two hours on summit for Confortola who arrived summit around 11:00 hours. Stayed about 15 minutes and descended to ABC at 17:00 hours. Weather was very good, no wind, no clouds. Confortola and Mondinelli left CBC on 4 May, arrived Kathmandu on 5 May. They were trying to leave as soon as possible. Both Confortola and Mondinelli did not use oxygen and did not take oxygen. 

  Magliano and Pemba Rinji left C3 at 01:00 hours (NST) on 14 May, reached summit at 15:09 hours, stayed on summit 15 minutes, saw good views of Everest. It was little windy, otherwise very good weather. Descended to C3 slept there and next day BC. Magliano used oxygen from C3 to summit and to C3. Sherpa did not use oxygen. Magliano team returned to Kathmandu on 19 May. He left on 21 May. Rest of the members on 25 May. 

  Cariboni climbed up to C2 slept there on 7 May; left BC on 10 May as he was fed up.
  Dalla Rosa left BC on 3 May. His father was hospitalized. He spent a night at C1
    on 23 April.
  Della Vedova and Danielle Lenatti slept at C2 on 8 May, no motivation to climb.

  Giordani and Floriano Lenatti attempted for summit on 9 May, reached up to Yellow Band. Strong wind and cold caused them to turn back to BC. They did not try to summit again.

  Grego slept at C2 on 8 May, no motivation to climb.

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Rinji, 25-11-74, Kharikhola, Ever X6, Kangch X2, Lhotse X1, Anna1 X1


expid: CHOY07113
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Mike Marolt, Steve Marolt
sponsor: Aspen Cho Oyu-Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2007-04-19
smtdate: 2007-05-05
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2007-05-09
othersmts: Attempted Everest (EVER-071-42)
campsites: BC(19/04),ABC(23/04,5600m),C1(27/04,6600m),C2(29/04,7500m),Smt(05/05)
agency: None
primid: EVER07142
routememo:
  Aspen Cho Oyu-Everest Expedition - Spring 2007

  The team of three American members and two Sherpas led by Mike Marolt first climbed the northwest side of Cho Oyu and directly from there went to the North Col route on Everest.

  No oxygen taken, none used. No serious medical problems.

  Entire team of Mike Marolt, Steve Marolt, Jim Gile, Karma Sherpa and Pemba Norbu left C2 at 9:00 pm (NST) on 4 May. Mike Marolt reported: "We started our climb that climb that day from C2 eliminating the high camp. So by the time we all got up to that final summit plateau, we were very tired. Steve and the Sherpas were a bit ahead and yelled down that the summit was 'go'. Jim (Gile) thought it was a lot farther than it was and interpreterd the 'go' as a 'no'. So he stayed put (at about 8150m). When he realized what had happened, it was too late for him to continue and he was very tired."

  Steve Marolt and both Sherpas had reached the summit at 11:00 am on 5 May. Mike Marolt turned back at about 8100m because he was sick with bronchitis and could go no higher.

  The three members skied all the way from their high points back to C1.

  The team left Cho Oyu base camp on 9 May and went to Tingri to rest before proceeding to Everest.


  Kari Kobler - 28 May 2007

  The three-member team of Mike Marolt, his twin brother Steve, and Jim Gile went first to Cho Oyu and from there directly to Everest. They had two Sherpas with them on Cho Oyu.

  They arrived at their Cho Oyu BC on 19 April. On about 10 May they went for the summit; Gile and Mike Marolt stopped at 8100m, but Steve went to the summit with Norbu and Karma Sherpas. The three members then skied down the mountain to C1, Steve from the summit and the others from 8100m.

  They went immediately to Everest and arrived at BC on 14 May. They now had three Sherpas with them: Norbu and Karma from their Cho Oyu climb, and Mingma from Kobler's Everest climb.

  The Americans moved up the mountain as follows:

  	ABC - 16 May
  	C1  - 17 May, down to ABC on about 18 May
  	C2  - 19 May at 7800m
  	C3  - 20 May at 8300m

  On 21 May they left C3 for the summit, but they turned back at 8500m. They had climbed without any oxygen; now they were cold and very tired, and they descended to C2.

  On 22 May the three members skied from C2 to 6600m.


expid: CHOY07117
peakid: CHOY
year: 2007
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Laurent Carrier
sponsor: Ertips Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-30
smtdate: 2007-05-19
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2007-05-23
campsites: BC(30/04,4900m),ABC(02/05,5700m),C1(05/05,6400m),C2(08/05,7100m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Rai)
routememo:
  Ertips Cho Oyu Expedition 2007

  Champly, Etienne, Trecourt, Pemba, Pasang, Lhakpa Sonam Sherpa left C2 on 18 May at 12:00 hours (NST) reached C3 at 16:00 hours, then took rest for a while. Left C3 site at 24:00 hours, reached summit at 13:00 hours on 19 May. The summiters stayed on summti for about an hour, then descended to C2 at 20:00 hours. The team arrived ABC next day. Summit was cloudy, thus could not see Everest. On the summit they saw lots of prayer flags. Spanish climber Miguel Angel Perez was already on the summit ahead of the French team. Behind the French team there were two Spanish climbers of Spanish expeditions who turned around from 8100m. Summit day was cloudy but no wind and there was little snow. French team was the last one to summit Cho Oyu this season. Spanish team also left CBC same day. 

  Boutouil went up to 6700m while trying to go to C2, but the route was difficult for him. Then he went down to ABC and remained there. 

  Carrier suffered from pulmonary edema on 1 May and left CBC same day for Kathmandu. No idea about his arriving and departure to/from Kathmandu. 

  Champly suffered from pulmonary edema while descending from summit and had to use oxygen from C2 to C1 after that he recovered.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Sonam Sherpa, 07/06/1981, Kharikhola, Solu
    Pemba Dorje Sherpa, 1/8/70, Kharikhola, Everest 23/5/03
    Pasang Gyalzen/Gyalze, 30/10/64, Walung, Makalu, Cho Oyu X1, Dhaula X1, Xixa X1


expid: DHA107101
peakid: DHA1
year: 2007
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Giampolo Casarotto
sponsor: Italians on Dhaulagiri I
ascent1: 125
bcdate: 2007-04-05
smtdate: 2007-04-29
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2007-05-02
campsites: BC(05/04,4800m),C1(10/04,5800m),C2(15/04,6600m),C3(28/04,7400m),Smt(29/04)
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Parajuli)
routememo:
  Made same traverse above C3 to top as Merelli team and all other 29 April summiters. Left C2 at 3:00-3:10 am for top and on top 2:30 pm. Returned to C3 7:10 pm by Casarotto, 11:00 pm by Cristina helping Rosa Morotti descend: Morotti badly disturbed by husband's death and wanted to stay with his body; very difficult to get her to go down away from him. Dalla Longa died when very near top of couloir, he put ice axe with snow and axe didn't hold; Casarotto thinks Dalla Longa already dead from hitting head on rock and badly somersaulting. 30 April C3 to BC; arrived BC at 6:00 pm.


expid: DHA107102
peakid: DHA1
year: 2007
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Josep Noguera
sponsor: Union Excursionista de Sabadell (UES) Dhaulagiri Expedition 2007
ascent1: 124 w/Swiss
bcdate: 2007-04-01
smtdate: 2007-04-29
smttime: 1415
termdate: 2007-05-03
campsites: BC(01/04,4750m),C1(03/04,5800m),C2(08/04,6600m),C3(28/04,7450m),Smt(29/04)
accidents: Sellent one frostbitten finger from filming between C2 & C3 on ascent
agency: Chure Tamang
routememo:
  C1 below North Col
  C2 on NE Ridge at start of rock.

  This team first to establish C1 and C2 and to start fixing rope above C2. Climbed with Goltz and Brill (Swiss & German). 29 April from C3 at 5:00 am with Galtz and Brill and on top at 14:15 hours with Swiss Goltz, Casarotto and Cristina. Noguera down to C3 at 7:00 pm, first to arrive because was reopening route as 20 cm new snow from 1:00 pm and wind meant no tracks left from earlier in day. 30 April in BC. Made same traverse as Merelli team in stable snow into small couloir to small col on summit ridge from west and left to summit.


expid: DHA107103
peakid: DHA1
year: 2007
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Mario Merelli
sponsor: Italian Expedition Dhaulagiri 2007
countries: Spain
bcdate: 2007-03-31
smtdate: 2007-04-29
termdate: 2007-05-03
termnote: Abandoned at 8160m due to frostbitten member and fatal accident
campsites: BC(31/03,4600m),C1(04/04,5650m),C2(07/04,6600m),C3(28/04,7500m),xxx(29/04,8160m)
accidents: Morotti's frostbite and fatal fall
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Parajuli)
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C2 at NE Ridge.

  Italian-Spanish Dhaulagiri I led by Merelli - Spring 2007

  After occupying C2 during the night of 7 April, all members went down to BC on the 8th. They spent the next days stocking C1 and C2, and then came a period of bad weather with strong winds.

  Finally on 25 April a summit push was launched by Bellingheri, Dalla Longa, Magri and Morotti, who climbed to C1 that day and to C3 on the 26th; Merelli, Panzeri and Quesada joined them in C2 on the 27th by climbing directly from BC.

  On 28th all set out from C2 to establish C3 and to make summit bid on the 29th. However, Quesada turned back at 7100m; she was very tired from the previous days climb, and immediately ahead (from 7100m) was a 100m high wall of hard ice. She returned to C2, while the other six went to C3.

  On 29th Bellingheri and Magri were having altitude problems. They descended that day all the way to BC, and as they passed through C2, Quesada went down with them.

  On the 29th Merelli and Panzeri remained in C3 because of strong winds, but Dalla Longa and his wife Morotti, together with members of other teams (Catalans Josep Noguera and Roger Sellent; an independent Italian, Renzo Benedetti; 2 other Italians, Giampaolo Casarotto and Cristina Castagna; and German-Swiss pair, Richard Brill and Gianni Goltz) decided nevertheless to go for the top and began their ascent at 6:00 am. After about two hours, the German, Brill, turned back at 7800m but the rest continued up. At about 7700m the party made a traverse to the right away from the NE Ridge and up towards the top.

  Morotti stopped about 30m below the top. Dalla Longa, her husband who had been ahead of her, fell when he was perhaps only 5-10 meters below the summit and passed her as he continued his 200m fall into a minor couloir. She has no idea why he fell. She went down quickly to where he lay at the bottom of the couloir (at about 8080m altitude). He was dead, and his body remains there. She returned to C3, where Merelli and Panzeri still were. All survivors of the summit bid were back in C3 between 9:00 and 11:00 pm.

  Merelli and Panzeri were to go for the top on the 30th, but instead they escorted down two badly frostbitten climbers, Benedetti and Morotti. Both had become frostbitten on 29th high on the mountain and had to be helped to descend and to be cared for. Morotti's ten fingers are frostbitten (one thumb not very much, the others are black but expected to heal), her nose and one toe are also frostbitten); she can do very little for herself with nine bandaged fingers. All members from all teams descended from C2 to BC on the 30th around 7:00 pm in what was that day "a very long trip, very tired," as Morotti described it, but they wanted to get to BC as soon as possible to begin medical treatment, to have more and better food and drink, to warm the places where they were frostbitten, and to get to much lower altitude. Most of them came to Kathmandu on 3 May by helicopter from BC to Pokhara and plane to Kathmandu.

  Morotti said she saw two bodies near the summit. One was at a small col on the ridge that leads eastward to the top; it is, she says, the body of the Spanish climber, Quico Dalmases, who went missing in 1989. The other was slightly below the Col (and is perhaps a German).


expid: DHA107104
peakid: DHA1
year: 2007
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Renzo Benedetti
sponsor: Italian Dhaulagiri 2007 Expedition
ascent1: 126
bcdate: 2007-04-07
smtdate: 2007-04-29
smttime: 1510
termdate: 2007-05-03
campsites: BC(07/04,4650m),C1(11/04,5800m),C2(15/04,6600m),C3(28/04,7450m),Smt(29/04)
accidents: Frostbite on fingers
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  C1 above North Col on NE Ridge
  C2 on NE Ridge
  C3 on NE Ridge

  12 April deposited gear at C2 site and down to BC. 14 April to C1; 15 April established C2; 16 April to BC. 21 April BC to C2; 22 April C2 to BC because strong wind and heavy snowfall. 26 April BC to C1; 27th ot C2, 28 to C3; 29th leave C3 at 5:40 am, on summit 3:10 pm (about 10 minutes after Casarotto) and to C3 at 11:00 pm, slowly slowly helping Merelli member Rosa Morotti to descend to C3 also. 30 April C3 to BC. 

  Got frostbite in 10 fingers while belaying Morotti as she slowly descended to C3. 

  In his climb, he made some traverse away from ridge as Merelli's team did.


expid: DHA107105
peakid: DHA1
year: 2007
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Gianni Goltz, Richard Brill
sponsor: German & Swiss on Dhaulagiri I
ascent1: 124 w/Spanish, 127
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 2007-04-01
smtdate: 2007-04-29
smttime: 1410
termdate: 2007-05-07
campsites: BC(01/04),C1(04/04,5750m),C2(09/04,6600m),C3(28/04,7460m),Smt(29/04,01/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Parajuli)
routememo:
  BC as same as Merelli
  C1 at North Col
  C2 at NE Ridge under rocks.

  Both members left C3 for top 29 April 4:45 am. Brill turned back at 7600m with stomach trouble to C3 while Goltz went to top at 2:10 pm via same traverse as Merelli's team and returned to C3 at 11:30 pm, very late because helping Rosa Morotti descend from couloir where husband died (Merilli team).

  1 May Brill up from C3 for top (Goltz back to BC 30 April) with Inaki's Brupbacher and Colibasanu and Urubko team; left C3 at 6:00 pm, on top at 6:00 pm through deep snow and wind via Merelli team's traverse; to C3 at 12:00 am midnight. Made 3-hour biv at 7600m waiting for Brupbacher and with Morotti to 100m above C3, then to C3 alone to make water for her; she stopped at 100m above C3 because exhausted; had no frostbite and fully well. Brill stayed in C3 with Brupbacher 2 May, to C2 on 3 May, C1 on 4 May, C2 on 5 May to bring down his team's gear and to BC same day.

  No attempt on Annapurna I as originally hoped.


expid: DHA107106
peakid: DHA1
year: 2007
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Kazakhstan
leaders: Denis Urubko
sponsor: Kazakhstan-Russian Dhaulagiri Expedition
ascent1: 128,130
countries: Russia
bcdate: 2007-04-14
smtdate: 2007-05-01
smttime: 1900
termdate: 2007-05-05
campsites: BC(14/04,4700m),C1(18/04,5800m),C2(20/04,6700m),C3(28/04,7400m),Smt(01-02/05)
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C2 on NE Ridge.

  From C3 for top 1 May 5:00 am but very slow ascent because of deep snow (not bad wind). Summit party was Lutokhin, Samoilov, Sharipova, Shutov and Sinev. Luktokhin turned back at 7800m, very tired and went to C3. Samoilov, Sharipova, Shutov and Sinev reached the top at 7:00 pm; the first 2 returned to C3 at 11:00 pm, the other 2 at 10:00 pm. 

  On 2nd May, Kozlovsky left C3 for the top at 5:15 am, reached 7500m and returned to C3, very tired. Urubko reached summit on 2 May. 

  Surmonin got to 7100m 30 April, too tired to go higher and he was joined by Korshunov. Surmonin left team on 3 May.


  Kazakstani-Russian Dhaulagiri led by Denis Urubko - Spring 2007

  Urubko set out to make a speed ascent of Dhaulagiri I from BC at 9:30 pm on 30 April but his ascent "was broken" when at 7300m at about 5:00 am on 1 May he found his member Boris Korshunov sitting there unprotected, close to a small rock cliff.

  Urubko found some rope and secured Korshunov in a safe place. Korshunov was shivering he so cold; Urubko massaged him to get him warm and gave him warm drinking water from a bottle under his jacket. Then he put a harness on Korshunov and slowly they descended, Korshunov slightly ahead with a short rope between them, from 7300m to 7100m down a steep ice slope. At 7100m at 9:00 am, Korshunov had warmed up and able to move normally; he was able to go by himself to C2 (6700m) and join Sergei Surmonin there.

  Urubko then resumed his ascent. He reached C3 at 10:00 am and stayed there as he was tired. On 2 May at 5:15 am he started up again and reached the summit at 9:45 am, spent an hour on the summit on a warm, windless morning, then down to C3 at 11:50 am and finally to BC at 6:00 pm. He went from BC to summit to BC in 45 hours.

  In their traverse away form the  NE Ridge, Urubko's team used a shorter and more direct line to the summit, did not go up the small couloir to a small col, the way that Inaki Ochoa made the route on 26 April and was followed by Italians and Spaniards on the 29th.


expid: DHA107107
peakid: DHA1
year: 2007
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner
sponsor: Kaltenbrunner Dhaulagiri Expedition
countries: Czech Republic
bcdate: 2007-04-16
smtdate: 2007-05-05
termdate: 2007-05-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to avalanching
campsites: BC(16/04,4700m),C1(20/04,5750m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(05/05,7400m),xxx(05/05,7400m)
accidents: Orsulova's cerebral edema only
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Rai)
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C2 on NE Ridge
  C3 higher than Spanish team on ridge.


  Mrs Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner's Dhaulagiri I climb - spring 2007

  Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and Lucie Orsulova had pitched C1 on the North Col on 20 April and left their tent with important gear in it when they went down to BC. When they returned to C1 on 3 May, the tent and all the gear were gone. They were able to borrow essential items and they had a spare tent, so they managed to carry on with their climb. Kaltenbrunner learned later that the kitchen boy and another Sherpa sent up by an independent Italian, Renzo Benedetti, to bring down his gear, brought the ladies gear too, and it was left with his trekking agency in Kathmandu.

  Kaltenbrunner and Orsulova climbed from C1 to C3, which was right on the NE Ridge itself, on the 4 May and to C3 on 5 May. Now Orsulova was moving slowly, not feeling well with a bad headache, not eating or drinking because of feeling nauseous, losing her sense of balance; she had cerebral edema. They stayed two nights in C3 and during the second night Kaltenbrunner found Orsulova not even sleeping, but sitting up expecting to vomit at any moment; she started hallucinating.

  They began their descent to BC at 6:00 am the next day, the 7th. It was very slow: Orsulova had to be helped with the fixed ropes and fell down often (while attached to the ropes). There was a bad storm and sometimes there was no visibility; they had to wait in C2 for two hours for the storm to pass. They finally reached BC at 8:00 pm. Orsulova recovered enough at BC for her to be able to leave on the 11th.

  On the 11th, Kaltenbrunner left BC and climbed alone to C1. On the 12th she moved up to C2 in the company of members of a Spanish team, Santiago Sagaste, their leader, Ricardo Valencia and Javier (Javi) Serrano. Segaste was slow and arrived in camp four hours later than the others in a thunderstorm.

  On the 13th, there was a storm with strong wind and moving out of the tents was nearly impossible. But Kaltenbrunner knew she had to leave her tent when at 8:55 am she felt an avalanche moving it 10-15 meters down the mountain. (It was a small snow slab avalanche that had started not far above her camp). She used a knife to cut open her tent and got out of it without her boots (she had on two pairs of socks and down booties) and her sunglasses. She grabbed her shovel near the tent and dug it out of the snow, put on her boots and sunglasses and went to dig out the tent in which Sagaste and Valencia had spent the night. After an hour's digging, she found the tent with one lifeless arm and a leg sticking out of it. She then went to the other Spanish tent in which Serrano was still sleeping, woke him up and for an hour they tried to clear his tent of the snow.

  But then fearing more avalanching, they decided to go down to C1, and on the way, they met the independent Australian climber Michael Parker climbing up, unaware of any avalanche. He went on to his own undamaged C2, which was above the site of Kaltenbrunner's and Spaniards tents. She and Serrano reached C1 at about 12:30 pm. They waited for the end of avalanching that was coming down from a North Face feature known as Eiger and crossing the icefall section of the route from C1 to BC. They left C1 at 4:00 pm. and got to BC at 6:30 pm.

  Kaltenbrunner stayed in BC on 4 May and left it on 15 May to trek to Marpha with the Spanish team's survivors. On the 16th trekked to Jomsom and on the 17th flew Jomsom/Pokhara and Pokhara/Kathmandu. She is not sure what her next move is: she hesitates to go home, where a number of reporters are waiting for her...she doesn't even want to open her email. Her husband, Ralf Dujmovits, is climbing Manaslu, and she might trek towards his base camp, but if he is late finishing his climb, he will ask for a helicopter from his base camp and fly over her. She may wait for him to return to Kathmandu on the 26th; they are booked to fly home on the 29th.


expid: DHA107108
peakid: DHA1
year: 2007
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Santiago Sagaste
sponsor: Dhaulagiri 2007 Ejea de los Caballeros Expedition
approach: Beni->Dovan->Bagar->Italian BC
bcdate: 2007-04-14
smtdate: 2007-05-03
termdate: 2007-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to death of two members in an avalanche
campsites: BC(14/03,4600m),C1(19/04,5700m),C2(02/05,6700m),C3(03/05,7400m),xxx(03/05,7400m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Dhaulagiri 2007 C.M. Ejea Expedition

  On 13 May three members of Spanish expedition and Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, Austrian from another expedition, were at C2 waiting for the storm to subside to go to C3. Sagaste and Valencia were in one tent and Serrano was in another tent. There was a heavy snowfall previous day. Around 9 am an avalanche buried the tent in which Sagaste and Valencia were sleeping. Serrano heard Gerlinde calling him and she came to his tent. Both went to see the tent of Sagaste and Valencia which was buried in snow about 2m down. Then they started shoveling out the snow for may be about 40 minutes then they saw Valancia's arm and of Sagaste. It was not possible for two persons to remove maybe more than 500 kg of snow and ice to bring out the bodies. Another problem was the place where they dug it filled up by top snow and it could not be stopped. Then Serrano and Gerlinde decided to leave the place. On the way down to BC they met Parker coming up. There were many avalanches on that day. All the way down to BC there was lots of snow, some places more than a meter deep. 

  Gaspar and Royo went up to C2 on 2 May, descended to BC same day due to stomach problem of Gaspar and Royo suffering from headache. 

  Sanchez went up to C3 on 3 May due to bad weather went down to BC.

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 17 May and will leave on 25 May.


expid: DHA107109
peakid: DHA1
year: 2007
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Michael Parker
sponsor: Australian on Dhaulagiri I
approach: Beni->Doban->Bagar->Italian BC
bcdate: 2007-04-14
smtdate: 2007-05-01
termdate: 2007-05-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(14/04,3535m),C1(19/04,5700m),C2(23/04,6750m),C3(29/04,7500m),xxx(01/05,7600m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Accident fell into crevasse about 30m deep which was just two meters away from his C2 site. He managed to come out with the help of his axe and crampons.

  Details of climb: On about 1 May, Parker thinking to go to summit left C3 and climbed for an hour...it was snowy little by little and became white out, then he turned around to C3. He slept there and waited the storm to calm down. But storm did not ease off until 3 May. Then he went down to BC. Snow condition was very bad wth every day snowfall. Last time he left BC was on 12 May and stayed at C1, it was pretty windy - very strong wind indeed. He left for his high camp on 13 May at 6 am. After about two or three hours climbing he did not see the tent of Spanish expedition which was supposed to be at C2 site. Then he tried to contact over radio to C2, but could not make any contacts. After some time he saw two people coming down struggling in deep snow - more than a meter deep. After about an hour Parker met Serrano and Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner. They told him about the avalanche in C2 which killed Sagaste and Valencia. Parker continued for C2. Reaching C2, for about 30 minutes he could not think what to do next. Then he went to see the Spanish tent buried in snow to make sure that two bodies were there. The two different arms are the only parts visible on the surface. It is impossible to clear the snow and ice to bring out the bodies alone. Then he saw a big slab above C3 sliding down. That made impossible to go beyond C3 as with the sliding slab it cut off the climbing route. He then descended to BC on 14 May. It was very hard for members and porters to reach Marpha due to deep snow all the way from BC. He returned to Kathmandu on 17 May and will leave on 8 or 9 June. Next year he may come for Makalu.


expid: DHA107110
peakid: DHA1
year: 2007
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Mexico
leaders: Eva Martinez Sandoval
sponsor: Escalando Suenos to Dhaulagiri I
approach: Beni->Dovan->Bagar->Italian BC
bcdate: 2007-04-14
smtdate: 2007-05-05
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2007-05-09
termnote: Abandoned at 8120m (fore-summit)
accidents: Martinez and Phu Dorchi fall
agency: Monterosa Treks
campsites:
  BC(14/04,4800m),C1(17/04,5750m),C2(18/04,7000m),C2.5(19/04,7300m),C3(25/04,7400m),ForeSmt(05/05,8120m)

routememo:
  Martinez and Phu Dorchi Sherpa left C3 at the midnight of 4 May, reached summit (pole site) at about 6 am on 5 May. While descending Martinez was tired and leaned on a rock face to have a little rest. She suddenly slipped; Phu Dorchi tried to hold her but both of them tumbled down on the snow slope. Phu Dorchi said he was unconscious. He does not remember for how long. He lost his gloves. Then he went to Martinez, she was lying unconscious. About an hour later she became conscious and they walked to C3, spent night there. Next day to C2 and BC on 7 May. When I [Liz Hawley] met her at Marshyangdi Hotel on 14 May, Martinez had swollen left jaw, swollen left ankle, bruises in both legs, waist and shoulders. Her left hand fingers were white. Her voice was weak and coughing. She said she had little fever too and thinking to go to the Clinic the next day with her sister who is doing meditation in one of the Buddhist monasteries. I met Martinez and Phu Dorchi on 19 May at the residence of Laxman Shrestha (he speaks Spanish). Phu Dorchi told me that they reached to the point where the pole is and thought that was the summit. Martinez and her sister were staying at Laxman's Shrestha's home.

  Another independent climber Michael Parker said that when Martinez and Phu Dorchi returned to BC both of them look traumatized and did not talk to anybody at BC; instead Martinez went straight to her tent and Phu Dorchi went behind the BC site and was weeping. Parker said that he does not want to say whether Martinez and Phu Dorchi went to summit or not. It does not matter to him. But considering the poor climbing skill of Martinez and the bad condition of mountain, he thinks it was too early to get to the summit, though it was not impossible. He said, despite not being very experienced Sherpa Phu Dorchi indeed had done a great job for Martinez. 

  Martinez and Phu Dorchi returned to Kathmandu on 14 May. Martinez will leave Nepal after 15 days.

  Sherpa:
    Phu Dorchi Sherpa, 28/2/83 (16/11/2039), Sedua-4, Makalu, no 8000ers


  Additional information on Mexican Dhaulagiri I - from Phu Dorchi 

  Phu Dorchi Sherpa said that the pole is of steel and well-fixed on the ridge. The pole is about four inches in diameter and about a meter high. The top is pointed as of an arrowhead with three edges. No idea about the altitude of the place [an aluminum pole is at the false summit at 8120m].

  Phu Dorchi said Martinez and himself climbed along the ridge to the place where the pole is placed.

  They were on the ridge when they fell (no idea about the altitude). Phu Dorchi lost his glove in the fall. When he got conscious after the fall his three fingers (middle, ring and little) were swollen and getting black. Phu Dorchi put his fingers on a rock and pressed hard/hammer with his boot till the fingers started flowing out black blood then he started sucking the fingers till all the black blood is completely out. Phu Dorchi kept his palm under his armpit. It started getting warm. By the time he got to BC his frostbitten fingers recovered and were in normal condition.

  Martinez had a camera but it did not work in C2; she changed to a new battery but it still did not work.


expid: DHA107111
peakid: DHA1
year: 2007
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Inaki Ochoa
sponsor: Inaki Dhaulagiri Expedition
ascent1: 123,129
countries: Romania, Switzerland, USA
bcdate: 2007-04-07
smtdate: 2007-04-24
smttime: 1505
termdate: 2007-05-05
othersmts: Attempted Annapurna I (ANN1-071-04)
campsites: BC(07/04,4700m),C1(10/04,5800m),C2(15/04,6640m),C3(30/04,7500m),Smt(26/04,01/05)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Inaki Ochoa - 30 May 2007

  Ochoa and Egocheaga summited on 26 April. They made their successful summit push from C2 at 1:00 am; Ochoa was on the top at 3:05 pm and Egocheaga at 4:00 pm. They were later hit by a violent storm. Ochoa descended to C2 at 11:00 pm, but Egocheaga spent the night out. Ochoa went down to C1 the next day and found Egocheaga there already; Ochoa hadn't known where his teammate was since they had no walkie-talkie.

  Ochoa had made their route above C2 via a couloir that had been used by Spaniards in 1979 and others after them. The couloir is shaped like an open book: the left hand page is rock and the right hand page is snow.

  Non-summiting members:

  Barrio went to only 6300m, was not strong enough to go higher.

  Fernandez went to 7000m. He at first wanted to stay with Santiago Sagaste's Spanish team but changed his mind and left the mountain before them.

  Dates of departure from BC:
    Egocheaga and Ogwyn on 24-25 April
    Ochoa on 2 May
    Fernandez and Barrio on 3 May
    Colibasanu and Brupbacher on 5 May

  Ochoa and Colibasanu went from Dhaulagiri I BC to Annapurna I BC. The others went from Dhaulagiri to Kathmandu.


  Joby Ogwyn - 1 May 2007:

  Team's camps: 
    BC   9 April  4700m 
    C1  12 April  5700m
    C2  15 April  6400m

  On 21 April, Colibasanu, Egocheaga, Ochoa and Ogwyn went up from BC to C2 in a summit push. On 22nd they went up from C2 intending to establish C3 and then go for the top the following day. The weather had been very good, but that night in C2 it was cold and very windy, and they had a miserable night. On 23rd they set off for C3, but after climbing 400m above C2, the other three climbers decided they were too tired from their wretched night before to continue up; Ogwyn did not want to climb alone, so he turned back with them, and they descended all the way to BC.

  Ogwyn did not resume climbing; the weather forecast was for strong winds continuing, and he had other commitments elsewhere that meant he had no time to stay on into May.

  Barrio, Brupbacher and Fernandez went to C2, but no higher while Ogwyn was with the team.


  Jorge Egocheaga - 1 May 2007:

  Egocheaga reached the summit alone on 26 April 50 minutes after Inaki Ochoa. In his descent when in the area of C2, a huge snow avalanche hit him and carried him over onto the East Face and down 800 meters. He lost his gloves and his gear; it was a dark night, and "when I stopped, I didn't know where I was" because his eyes were frozen over. He fell into a crevasse on the face, climbed out of it, and spent the rest of the night walking 100 meters to one side and back 100 meters. When the sun had gotten quite bright, he could see a shadow coming towards him; the shadow said she was Cristina (Castagna from Casorotto's team) and she led him to C1, where he was joined by Inaki, who had waited for him in C2. "I think the mountain wants to take me!" The last time he was on Dhaulagiri in autumn 1992, his partner was very badly frostbitten and lost all his toes.


  Miss Joelle Brupbacher - 11 May 2007:

  Ochoa and Egocheaga left C2 on 26 April at 2:00 am in summit push and on the way up put C3 at 7500m. They reached the top at about 3:00-4:30 pm.

  Brupbacher went up from C1 to C2 alone on 28 April; 29th to C3, stayed there two nights and 1 May to summit with Horia Colibasanu, who joined her in C3 on the 30th, plus members of two other teams (Richard Brill, plus some Russians and Kazakhstanis from Denis Urubko's team). She left C3 at 6:00 am and reached summit at 7:00 pm (after dark); Colibasanu gained the summit summit at 4:00 or 5:00 pm and down to C3. But Brupbacher did not get to C3 that night; she climbed down towards it but could not find the route at about 7600m, got confused, was very tired and apparently lay down and went to sleep where she was. She is still confused about events and altitudes; she is sure she was very close to C3 when she fell asleep or blacked out, but she understands that she stopped at 7600m.

  She had no bivvy bag or any other protection except the warm clothes she was wearing, but she did not get any frostbite. The next morning, 2 May, she thinks, she got up -- does not think anyone woke her up -- and went to C3, where she spent the day and the next night. She did not see Colibasanu on the 2nd; when she reached C3, he had already left to go on down the mountain. On 3rd May she was in C2 and 4th May in BC, left BC on 7th or 8th and was back in Kathmandu on 10 May.

  She used no oxygen, had no Sherpa with her, and had no accident, illness or frostbite. She was on Ochoa's permit to climb Annapurna I with him after Dhaulagiri I but dropped the idea.


  Denis Urubko, Kazakhstani (Russian team leader) - 11 May 2007:

  Colibasanu summited on 1 May at 7:00 pm with Urubko's members and returned to C3 with them at 10:00 pm. Brupbacher summited at 9:00 pm on the 1st, slept at 7600m in her descent and reached C3 at 9:00-10:00 am on 2 May.


  Richard Brill, German climber with Gianni Goltz (Swiss) - 11 May 2007:

  Brill went to the summit on 1 May with Brupbacher and Colibasanu and Urubko team members. He returned to C3 at midnight because he made a 3-hour bivouac with Brupbacher at 7600m waiting for Brupbacher to descend to that point, went with her to 100m above C3, then went on to C3 to make warm water for her. But she stayed that night at 100m above camp because she was exhausted. Brill stayed in C3 with her on the 2nd.


expid: DINS07101
peakid: DINS
year: 2007
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kenro Nakajima
sponsor: Khumbu Expedition of Kwansei Gakuin University Alpine Club 2007
approach: Thame, N to Arye, NNW to Pangbuk Glacier (Meluka Glacier on HMG map)
bcdate: 2007-03-03
smtdate: 2007-03-18
termdate: 2007-03-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6132m due to difficulty of route
campsites: BC(03/03,4950m),C1(08/03,5435m),xxx(18/03,6132m)
achievment: 1st attempt by this route
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at Pangbuk Glacier 
  C1 at foot of SE Face
  High point at East Ridge.

  From C1 climbed SE Face to East Ridge and along East Ridge. Tried for top on 12 March from C1 by 3 members, but only to 6000m because getting late and back to C1. 2nd attack on 18 March by 3 members and 2 reached 6132m than very tired and back to C1. No more attempts because difficult snow and ice ridge and near summit snow and ice face. "Not so difficult but difficult for us." Difficult traverse and snow and ice between 6132m and top. Fixed 500m rope from high camp (C1).

  Lhakpa Chhiring from Lokhim to C1 only. 18 March Demoto and Nakajima only reached high point; Tanaka to 5700m where he hit his back side against rock while attached to fixed rope and bruised himself, so down to C1. Nakajima would like to go back to mountain via same route but with 10-member team.


expid: DORJ07101
peakid: DORJ
year: 2007
route1: W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hitoshi Ogi
sponsor: 2007 Miagi Rousan Nepal Himalaya Expedition
bcdate: 2007-03-14
smtdate: 2007-04-14
termdate: 2007-04-16
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to route difficult and lack of rope to fix route
campsites: BC(14/03,5400m),C1(10/04,6000m),xxx(14/04,6900m)
agency: Himalayan Treks (Him Treks)
routememo:
  Took long time to fix rope from 5600m to 6000m. Did not go above 6900m because 100m hard blue ice above 6900m was difficult when no more rope available, so climb finished and returned to C1 and down to BC 15 April. 

  All members reached 6000m campsite but only Ogi, Satoh and Yamaguchi stayed in C1.

  Hired:
    Dhan Bahadur Rai, 28/11/80 (3/8/2037), Makalu-7


expid: EVER03202
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: N Col
nation: Denmark
leaders: Henning Bitsch
sponsor: Motorbike Expedition to Everest
countries: Sweden
approach: Kathmandu->Lhasa->BC
bcdate: 2003-08-15
smtdate: 2003-08-17
termdate: 2003-08-17
termnote: Abandoned at 5320m due to altitude sickness & snow conditions
campsites: BC(15/08,5200m),IC(17/08,5270m),xxx(17/08,5320m)
accidents: Altitude record for motorbikes?
agency: High Mountain Wave Trekking
routememo:
  Arrived BC 15 Aug but 3 members including leader got altitude sickness and down to Rongbuk monastery at 4900m and 16 Aug to Chodzom village and lodge. Back to join others at BC 17 Aug. Four tried to go from BC to 2nd camp, but snow on ground & snow falling; everything was so slippery. Leader got altitude problem at interval camp at 5270m others to 5320m, before 2nd interval camp but where slope gets steeper and thus had to give up. 

  All had altitude sickness so all down to Chodzom 17 Aug evening, 18 Aug to Nyalam. 19th trying to get to Kathmandu was "terrible" because of landslides; needed 120 porters to carry everything including motorbikes 25 km.

  Expedition left Kathmandu from Tibet 6 Aug, arrived Lhasa 9 Aug, left Lhasa 12 Aug, arrived at BC 15 Aug via New Tingri. They will leave Kathmandu 25 Aug except Bitsch, who leaves 1 Sept.

  Two members, Krishna Humigain and Lisbeth Zacho, did not go above base camp.

  The diary of Anne Seel is given at the following web sites:

    www.rallyprincess.com/everest2003_en.html
    www.rallyprincess.com/everest2003_diary_eng.htm


expid: EVER07102
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Kazakhstan
leaders: Maxut Zhumayev
sponsor: Kazakhstan Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2007-04-11
smtdate: 2007-04-30
smttime: 1530
termdate: 2007-05-04
campsites: BC(11/04),ABC(15/04,6400m),C1(18/04,7100m),C2(19/04,7500m),Smt(30/04)
accidents: Pivtsov pulmonary edema and slight frostbite one toe
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C2 moved to 7900m 26 April.

  Made C2 low because good place on snow and dirt know what campsite like on rock above. 2 nights in C2; 2nd day up to 7800m to acclimatize and see area, then down to ABC. 25th to C1; 26th to C2 and moved it to 8900m, but did not occupy it because strong wind and back to ABC. 28th again up from ABC to C1. 29th to C2 and in evening 10:00 pm NST both members started for top; 8:00 am on 30th reached 8500m and 3:30 pm on top (perhaps 1 hour after Brice's Sherpas were on top). No other summiters this day. Russell Brice said he saw Kazakhstanis on top from video pix by his Sherpas, had fixed rope to top with snow packet there; stayed 30-45 minutes on top, then down. Stopped at 8300m in empty Brice tent and stayed there from 8:00 pm 30th to 9:00 am 1 May; to C2 on 1 May and on down to ABC. 

  [On descent] Pivtsov from 7700m used oxygen given by Arun Treks Sherpa with South African expedition because of pulmonary edema; stopped using oxygen at 6700m. Reached ABC 7:00 pm 1 May very tired but "very happy." Left 20m+ rope at summit because didn't use it; when he had started for top didn't know Sherpas would have fixed route to top.

  Pivtsov oxygen bottle partly empty: South Africans Sherpa Namgye had been using it. On top was Brice blue oxygen bottle and framed picture of Dalai Lama with white kata around it.


expid: EVER07103
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kazuhiko Miyamoto
sponsor: Japanese on Everest
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-18
smtdate: 2007-05-03
termdate: 2007-05-16
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to bad weather, lack of time
campsites: BC(18/04,5300m),ABC(26/04,6200m),C1(02/05,7000m),xxx(03/05,8300m)
agency: Bochi Bochi Treks
routememo:
  Peme Sherpa left C1 at 5 am (NST) to carry oxygen bottles and tents to C3. Weather was good. He returned to C1 the same evening.

  Miyamoto reached 7000m and stayed 3 nights with Rinzing, Nima and Peme on 7 May. They descended to ABC on 10 May as the weather was not improving. Miyamoto abandoned climb as he had to catch a flight to Japan on 21 May.

  Nima Dorje Sherpa reached 7900m on 3 May to carry tents and oxygen to C2. Rinzing Tempa Sherpa reached 7500m on 3 May. He only did it for acclimatization. During Sherpas' carry, Miyamoto stayed at ABC.

  Sherpas:
    Peme, Tashigaon, Makalu-5, 21/9/65, Ever 2006 (Korean) North, Ever X2 more
    Nima Dorje, Tashigaon, Makalu-5, 17/3/81, Everest X2 (2003 & 2005)
    Rinzing Temba, Makalu-9, Walung, 39 years, 14/04/1968


expid: EVER07104
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Gheorghe Dijmarescu
sponsor: Dijmarescu to Everest
countries: Nepal
bcdate: 2007-04-23
smtdate: 2007-05-15
smttime: 0635
termdate: 2007-05-20
campsites: BC(23/04,5200m),ABC(26/04,6400m),C1(7050m),C2(13/05,7800m),C3(14/05,8300m),Smt(15/05)
agency: None
routememo:
  C1 at North Col.

  Had limited resources: "it was really, really primitive." C1 area very very crowded, almost impossible to find a spot. Left ABC for top 10 May and on top 15 May 6:35 am NST; had left C3 9:40 pm 14 May for top, but got stuck behind very slow Indians at bottom of 2nd Step had to wait 20 minutes; got around them above 2nd Step. Left top at 6:57 and down at C3 at 9:30 am to drink down to C1 at 2:30 pm and back to ABC at 4:00 pm. Had no resources if storm came, so had to go all way down. Mingkipa "like a jack rabbit" as very fast and beat Gheorghe to top by about seven minutes. 

  Gheorghe used oxygen from C2 to top to ABC. Mingkipa turned hers off at 7200m in descent.

  Gheorghe took off goggles after daylight came for 10-15 minutes on 15 May, knew he would become snowblind, kept his eyes squinted; in ABC put them on as was snowblinded for 1-1/2 days.


expid: EVER07105
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Jun Yasumura
sponsor: Mountain Gorilla Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2007-04-14
smtdate: 2007-05-15
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2007-05-20
campsites: BC(14/04),ABC(02/04,6400m),C1(12/05,7000m),C2(13/05,7600m),C3(14/05,8200m),Smt(15/05)
accidents: Hashikawa altitude sickness; Hoshiko hypertension
agency: Rolwaling Trek
routememo:
  ABC at highest ABC
  C1  at North Col.

  From C3 at 11:00 pm (NST) were Tuboi, Dawa Chhiri and Danuru Sherpas; Tuboi and Dawa Chhiri on top at 6:00 am and Danuru (carrying extra oxygen bottles) at 6:10 am; down to ABC same day at 6:00 pm. Tuboi was "very tired."

  Miss Miwako Hashikawa went to C2 on 13 May in summit party, but she developed pulmonary edema, could no longer climb up the mountain nor descend alone. Yasumura put her on oxygen and took her down to ABC on 14 May.

  Sadao Hoshiko reached 6000m but his blood pressure became very high; he left expedition on 24 April.

  Oxygen: Hashikawa given it when she got altitude sickness. Summiters Tuboi, Dawa Tshering and Danuru used oxygen in C3 to summit to, but not in C3.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Dawa Tshering (Dawa Chhiri) Sherpa, 19/11/66, Thami, Cho Oyu X3, Everest X7 
    Danuru Sherpa, 10/4/73, Namche, Cho Oyu X4


expid: EVER07106
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Koichi Oyama
sponsor: Oyama Koichi Chomolongma Expedition 2007
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-23
smtdate: 2007-05-15
smttime: 0538
termdate: 2007-05-20
campsites: BC(23/04,5180m),ABC(29/04,6350m),C1(02/05,7000m),C2(13/05,7700m),C3(14/05,8300m),Smt(15/05)
agency: Rolwaling Trek
routememo:
  Oyama, Nima Gyalzen and Pemba Gyalzen Sherpa left C3 at 21:20 hours of 14 May, summited at 05:38 hours (NST) on 15 May, stayed at summit about 15 minutes, descended to C3 at 09:00 hours. Rested there for an hour then went down to ABC at 18:00 hours. No clouds, no wind, but cold; while descending in the afternoon it was windy and cloudy. Ahead of them on the summit there was one Sherpa? On that day may be 30 people summited. Among them were Okura team, Ken Noguchi and others. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 21 May and will leave on 23 May. Next spring may come for Cho Oyu.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Gyalzen Sherpa, 27/3/1972, Beding, Dolakha, 
      Everest 2000 May Japan and 2005 Indian Army, Xixa X2
    Nima Gyalzen Sherpa, 9/8/1985, Beding, Everest 2005 Indian Army


expid: EVER07173
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Heo Young-Ho
sponsor: 20th Anniversary Winter Everest Summit Polo Climb 2007
bcdate: 2007-04-10
smtdate: 2007-05-17
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2007-05-19
campsites: BC(10/04,5350m),C1(20/04,6500m),C2(08/05,7200m),C3(10/05,7900m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Rai)
routememo:
  C2 at Lhotse Face
  C3 at South Col.

  Heo, Tashi Lhakpa and Muktu Lhakpa started up for top on 10 May from C3 at 9:00 pm and reached the Balcony at 3:30 am, but no higher: strong wind, no fixed ropes, so down all the way to BC 6:00 pm tired.

  14 May from BC again, 15 May to C2, 16th at South Col and at 7:00 pm Heo and Tashi up from Col and on top 6:00 am on 17 May in good weather. Spent almost 2 hours on top taking pictures, then down to 6500m camp at 5:00 pm. Tashi and Heo used oxygen in C3 to high point to C3 in both summit bids.

  Sherpas:  
    Tashi Lhakpa, 18/11/85, Mathilow, Walung, Makalu, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X3
    Muktu Lhakpa, 21/8/72, Tashigaon, Makalu, Everest X2


expid: EVER07108
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Tashi Tenzing
sponsor: Tashi Tenzing North Face Mount Everest Expedition
countries: Czech Republic
bcdate: 2007-04-09
smtdate: 2007-05-16
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2007-05-20
campsites: BC(09/04),ABC(14/04,6441m),C1(24/04,7150m),C2(14/05,7800m),C3(15/05,8300m),Smt(16/05)
accidents: Polackova frostnip on fingers
agency: Tenzing Asian Holidays
routememo:
  Both members and both climbing Sherpas left C1 at 8:00 am NST to go to C2 site; got to 7700m at 12:00 noon since this was high enough on this acclimatization trip; down to ABC. 28 April Tashi Pema to North Col and back, timing the climb for Polackova's future climb. 29th both Sherpas to 8300m C3 site and dropped loads and to North Col. 1-4 May in BC for rest. 

  13 May Pema and 2 members left ABC to North Col, 14th to C2, 15th C2 and C3 with Nima Gombu joining them in C3 from C2; arrived 12:30 pm C3. All 4 climbers up at 9:30 pm from C3, but 10:30 pm to 3:00 am strong wind and snow showers when reached bottom of 2nd Step; Tashi breaking trail, on up Step to its top at 1:00 am or later. On top 7:00 am (all 4 climbers), stayed on top on hour. Now weather was beautiful and down to C2 to sleep. 17th to ABC.

  Oxygen:
    Nima from C3 to top to C2
    Pema from C2 to top to C2 
    Members from 7300m to top to C2

  Sherpas:
    Nima Gombu, 2/1/69, Beding, Cho Oyu X3, Everest X11
    Pema Sherpa, 28/8/73, Makalu-5, no 8000ers


expid: EVER07109
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Ian Woodall
sponsor: Briton on Everest
bcdate: 2007-04-28
smtdate: 2007-05-21
termdate: 2007-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 8550m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(28/04),ABC(02/05,6500m),C1(14/05,7050m),C2(15/05,7900m),xxx(21/05,8550m)
agency: Sherpa Expeditions
routememo:
  Ang Gyalzen and Woodall on 16 May went out of tent at C2 and straight into storm and down to ABC. 17 and 18 May rested in ABC and 19 May both again up; North Col on 12 May, 20 May at C2, 21 May to First Step bottom. "Huge ascent of snow on face, never seen so much snow on mountain." Took shovels and knew from past years where body [Francys Arsentiev who died in Spring 1998] was and dug her out of 3-1/2 feet of snow, had small ceremony for her, pushed body down North Face, at bottom of which she must now lie. Down to ABC on 21 May and BC 22 May. 

  Oxygen used by Woodall from 8100m to 8550m to 8300m where ran out; Ang Gyalzen at 8100m to 8550m to 8200m where ran out. 

  Sherpa:
    Ang Gyalzen/Geljen, 24/6/73, Kharikhola, no 8000ers


expid: EVER07110
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Takashi Ozaki
sponsor: 2007 Spring International Expeditions Mt. Qomolungma
bcdate: 2007-04-20
smtdate: 2007-05-15
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2007-05-20
campsites: BC(20/04),ABC(29/04,6350m),C1(06/05,7050m),C2(13/05,7800m),C3(14/05,6300m),Smt(15/05)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  All 3 members and 2 Sherpas on 14 May left C3 11:00 pm NST for top. Nakai very slow to 8450m, could get in trouble, so Ozaki said he had to go down because just too slow and Ozaki down with him to C3 while Tojo and 2 Sherpas went to top at about 8:00 am in good weather, very clear; summiters to C3 to sleep while Ozaki and Nakai to C1 slowly and with some difficulty by Nakai. 

  Nakai got frostbite in fingers and toes in slow ascent from 8450m; will lose ends of 4 fingers.

  Oxygen used: Tojo sleeping in C1 11 May and all the way to top and down and sleeping in C1. Nakai from C1 11 May to high point to C2. Ozaki used none. Phurba Chhiri and Pasang from C3 to top to C3.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Phurba Chhiri Sherpa, 4/10/68, Kurima, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X3, Lhotse X2
    Pasang Tamang, 4/12/68, Deusa, Everest X1


expid: EVER07111
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Romano Benet
sponsor: Everest North Expedition 2007
bcdate: 2007-04-21
smtdate: 2007-05-17
smttime: 1015
termdate: 2007-05-24
campsites: BC(21/04),ABC(25/04,6350m),Biv(30/04,7050m),Biv(14/05,7600m),Biv(15/05,8100m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  On 1 May moved tent at North Col to 7600m and left gear there and down to ABC. From ABC to 7600m on 14 May after 4 day's rest at BC. 15th took tent up to 8100m and stayed there on 16th because of wind and snow. 17th better weather so at 9:30 am NST all 3 members left tent still together; after half an hour Manoni moved more slowly than others; because so cold entered other team's tent at 8300m then continued up with Mr Nadia Tiraboschi; he got to 8600m and decided too late for top, but even too late to reach 8100m so slept outside at 8500m and down to ABC on 18th. Benet and Meroi to top at about 10:15 am, Benet decided to descend to North Col, stopped at 8100m tent left it for others to use temporarily; left at 4:00 pm and arrived ABC 9:30 pm, very tired (ten steps and rest ten steps and rest).


expid: EVER07112
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Norway
leaders: Cato Pedersen
sponsor: Everest Unarmed 2007
countries: Sweden, Switzerland
bcdate: 2007-04-12
smtdate: 2007-05-16
termdate: 2007-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 8600m due to overcrowding at Second Step
campsites: BC(12/04),ABC(20/04,6400m),C1(04/05,7050m),C2(14/05,7700m),C3(15/05,8300m),xxx(16/05,8600m)
agency: Tseringma Treks
routememo:
  Everest Unarmed, Spring 2007 - 24 May 2007

  Summit party of Hauge, Nilsson, Osland, Pedersen, Zulauf, and five Sherpas left C3 at 10:00 pm (NST) on 15 May for an attempt to reach the top. Dawa Tshering (sirdar) was in the lead. Dawa Chhiri stayed close to Pedersen, who has no left arm and a prothesis on right arm from below the elbow, and helped Pedersen with tying and untying rope and so on.

  As they approached the Second Step, the sirdar was worried about the weather's getting worse, which would mean that they would be trapped and unable to descend quickly because of the crowd of people on the one-way Second Step ladder. All party members reached the Step at 8600m except Jaya Prakash Rai, who had gotten confused and followed the wrong team, reached 8400m and was met by the others as they were coming down from the expedition's high point of 8600m.

  Team descended to C3 and on down all the way to ABC the same day and climb was finished. Pedersen would not be able to make a summit bid: it would have been too exhausting for him to try again. "I am satisfied with this attempt," he said.

  They got to ABC on the 16th and BC on the 17th, but then had to wait until the 22nd to leave BC because of a shortage of yaks.

  Oxygen: the five summit party members used it in their summit push; Pedersen in C1 to 8600m to C1, the others in and from C2 to 8600m to C1. The two Dawas used none, while the other three Sherpas used it from C3 to 8600m to C3.

  The only person with any medical problem was Dawa Chhiri (Phurte), who got frostbite on three fingers.

  Non-summit party members:

  Hageboe, BC manager, did not go above BC; was not very well and left expedition 
    on 25 April.
  Oestmoen, photographer, went to C1 only.

  Sherpas:
    Sirdar Dawa Tshering/Chhiri Sherpa, 3/8/71, Beding, Cho Oyu X6, Everest X4, etc
    Dawa Chhiri Sherpa, 19/2/78, Phurte, Namche-4, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X2, etc
    Pasang Sona Sherpa, 21/7/77, Thami, Namche-7
    Mingma Nuru Sherpa, 20/12/75, Thami, Namche-7
    Kami Singee Tamang, 16/7/77, Syamba, Ramache, Rasuwa-4
    Jaya Prakash Rai, 28/3/74, Makalu-6, Sankhuwasabha


expid: EVER07172
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: SW Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Park Young-Seok
sponsor: Park Everest South West Face Expedition
bcdate: 2007-04-10
smtdate: 2007-05-14
termdate: 2007-05-19
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to fatal accident
campsites: BC(10/04),C1(14/04,6000m),C2(17/04,6400m),C3(06/05,7380m),C4(15/05,7700m),xxx(14/05,8000m)
agency: NE-KO Treks
routememo:
  Route: SW Face (unclimbed route)

  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on SW Face
  C4 on SW Face (near top of couloir).

  Park Everest Southwest Face Expedition 2007 - 25 May 2007

  Expedition's high point was reached during the period of rope-fixing on the face. On 14 May, Lee Hyeong-Mo, Ang Babu Sherpa, and Sangay Furi Sherpa fixed rope to 8000m and descended to C2.

  On 15 May, Lee Hyun-Jo and Oh Hee-Joon moved up to 7700m near the top of a couloir and pitched C4 there. Next morning at 1:45 a snow avalanche, the first real avalanche on the face since their arrival at BC on 10 April, came down into the couloir and carried C4's tent with Lee and Oh inside it all the way down to the bottom of the face in the Western Cwm; they were found dead on top of hard blue ice under 15 cm of snow. Their bodies were brought to Kathmandu and cremated at Swayambhu on 20 May.

  Oxygen was used by the three men fixing rope on 14 May from 7700m to 8000m (not in their descent), and on the 15th by Oh and Lee Hyun-Jo from 7500m to and in C4.

  Their route was between the American 1963 route and that of the USSR team in 1982. It was very steep, alternating rock and snow. Park intends to go back to the face next spring; all this team's gear is stored at Gorak Shep for next year's bid.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Babu Sherpa (aka Jimba Zangbu), 20/12/74, Khumjung, Cho X1, Everst X3, 
      Lhotse X2
    Sangay Furi Sherpa, 1/7/72, originally from Walung-9 but now lives in Darjeeling


expid: EVER07174
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: SummitClimb Everest Expedition 2008
bcdate: 2007-04-08
smtdate: 2007-05-22
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2007-05-26
campsites: BC(08/04,5350m),C1(16/04,6100m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(05/05,7150m),C4(21/05,7900m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  American Everest expedition led by Daniel Mazur, Spring 2007 - 3 June 2007

  Summit party of Schuck and Lhakpa Gelu left C4 for the summit at 9:00 pm on 21 May and reached the top at 8:30 am on the 22nd. They returned to C4 for the night.

  Non-summiting members:

  Burke left C4 for the top with a Sherpa at 9:30 pm on 20 May and climbed above the Balcony, then decided he had to turn back because he was tired, could not climb rapidly and did not have enough time to reach the summit and return safely to C4, so down to C4.

  Luscher developed a serious stomach problem on 26 April on C1, went up to C3 nevertheless, but then left the expedition on 17 May.

  Mazur was team leader, but was on his own Lhotse expedition and did not attempt to summit Everest.

  Oxygen: members used it in C3 to high points to C2, Sherpas in C4 to high point to C4.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa, 13/4/77, Thumduk, Beni, Solu, Everest 18/5/04


expid: EVER07175
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Sung-Bong
sponsor: 2007 Everest Silver Expedition 2007
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2007-04-07
smtdate: 2007-05-18
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2007-05-21
campsites: BC(07/04,5300m),C1(15/04,5900m),C2(21/04,6500m),C3(14/05,7300m),C4(16/05,7900m),Smt(18/05)
accidents: Kim Sang-Hon suffered from HAS (headache)
achievment: Kim oldest Korean to summit Everest
agency: Discover Adventure
routememo:
  BC on Khumbu Glacier
  C1 above Khumbu Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm/ABC
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Kim Sung-Bong, Lee Jang-Woo, Pasang Dawa Sherpa, Jangbu Sherpa, Nima Gyalzen Sherpa, Nga Tenji and Tshering Jangbu Sherpa left C4 at 7:30 pm on 17 May. Around 7:30 am on 18 May reached the summit. The team stayed on summit about 30 minutes then descended to C4 at 11 pm. Next day to C3 and following day to BC. Summit day weather was very good no wind, no snow. 

  Summit team member Cha went up to C1 and gave up too old to climb further. According to Chun (BC manager) Cha was the leader of the West Ridge expedition in 1995 (the team went up to C3).

  Another summit team member Cho went up to South Col on 16 May and gave up climbing due to exhaustion. 

  Chung went up to C2 (advance BC) on May 10 coordinating with BC and high camps. 

  Kim Jong-Ho remained at BC as BC manager. 

  Summit team member Kim Sang-Hong slept at C2 on 10 May had headache and went down to BC. 

  Lee Chang-Kee BC only. 

  Lee Chung-Ho summit team member went up to C2 on 21 April and did not climb further up. 

  Lee Jae-Seung expedition doctor climbed up to C2 on 21 April.

  Lee Nam-Jin also went up to C2 on 21 April, then stopped climbing as he was scared when he saw the mountain.

  Park Seung-Eon also up to C2 and did not like to go up further. 

  Um (Mrs) - BC only. 

  Yoo went up to South Col as support team member on 16 May. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 25 May, spent a night at Hyatt and left Kathmandu on 26 except Chun and Yoo. They moved to Villa Everest. They will leave on 31 May.

  Sherpas:
    Da Gyalzen Sherpa, (23-5-2038), Nachi Pang-3, Chaurikharka
      Summits: 1994 Dhaulagiri I, France, 1998 Shisapangma (France), 
      1999 Cho Oyu (France)
    Nga Tenji Sherpa, (28/2/80), Makalu-9, Nurbugaon, 2006 Everest North (Korean)
    Nawang Lhakpa Sherpa, (3-10-2028), Chaurikharka-3
      2002 Aut Ama Dablam (USA), 2004 Aut Pumori (France), 2004 Aut Ama 
      Dablam (Korean), 2005 Spring Everest (Korean), 2006 Everest (Korean)
    Phura Nuru Sherpa, (14-3-2042), Namche-5
     2004 Cho Oyu (UK), 2006 Everest (Korean)

  Sherpa summiters:
    Nima Gyalzen, 31/8/86, Ghat, Everest 17/5/06
    Nga/Nga Tenji, 28/2/80, Nurbugaon, Makalu-9, Ev 17/5/06
    Tshering Jangbu, 1/8/77, Lokhim, Everest X1, Lhotse X1
    Jangbu Sherpa, 19/9/79, Kharikhola, Everest X2
    Pasang Dawa, 14/4/77, Choplung, Chaurikharka-3 
      (claims Everest N spring 2003 and 2006 with French teams)


expid: EVER07117
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dick Morse
sponsor: American Cho Oyu Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2007-05-03
smtdate: 2007-05-21
smttime: 0415
termdate: 2007-05-25
othersmts: Climbed Cho Oyu (CHOY-071-20)
campsites: BC(03/05,5200m),ABC(05/05,6400m),C1(12/05,7000m),C2(19/05,7700m),C3(20/05,8300m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Peak Promotion
primid: CHOY07120
routememo:
  Cole, Fetzer, Pemba, Kami and Lhakpa left C3 at 8:30 pm on 20 May. Weather was relatively warm and clear. When Fetzer got to about 8500m between 1st and 2nd Step at 1:30 am, he decided to turn back as he was moving too slowly. He descended to C3 with Lhakpa where they arrived at 4 am. Kami went up and caught up with Cole and Pemba who were 15 minutes ahead. They stayed at summit for 1 hour, descended to C3 and arrived at 7:30 am. They picked up Fetzer and left C3 at 9:30 am. Fetzer and Cole descended to C1, arrived at 1 pm. Sherpas to ABC. They descended to ABC on 23 May.

  Morse never touched Everest BC. He left after Cho Oyu due to frostbite on right fingers. His fingers are Ok now, will keep them. 

  Summit Sherpas: 
    Pemba Rinzi/Ringi, 1975, Bishinga, Okhaldhunga, Dhaulagiri I X2
    Kami/Kame Sherpa, 1962, Bagam, Kerung, Solu, Cho Oyu X1, Dhaulagiri I X1,
      Everest X6, Lhotse X1


expid: EVER07176
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Claude Boisvenue
sponsor: Canadians on Everest
approach: Lukla->Lobuje East
bcdate: 2007-04-11
smtdate: 2007-05-19
termdate: 2007-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 8750m due to bad weather, high winds
othersmts: Lobuche East
campsites: BC(11/04,5250m),C1(16/04,5960m),C2(26/04,6230m),C3(07/05,7200m),C4(18/05,7925m),xxx(19/05,8750m)
agency: Nomad Expeditions
routememo:
  Claude Boisvenue, Yann Boisvenue and Pemba left C4 together with Filippi's Canadian team at 10:20 pm on 18 May. Clear skies, but windy (40 knots). Team stopped at South Balcony at 8360m. Yann turned back at this point due to cold feet; Wangchu descended with him to C2 and they arrived at 2 pm. Claude and Filippi's team carried on, but stopped at 8750m due to high winds. They turned back at around 9 am and descended to C2. Arrived at 5 pm. BC on 20 May.

  Sherpas:
    Wangchu Sherpa, Taksindu-3, Solu, 2/2/1978, Everest summiter 21/5/06
    Ang Pemba Sherpa, Taksindu-3, Solu, 01/10/84


expid: EVER07119
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Gary Parker
sponsor: British North Ridge Expedition 2007
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-09
smtdate: 2007-05-15
termdate: 2007-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 8700m due to lack of motivation (after seeing dead body being lowered)
campsites: BC(09/04,5200m),ABC(16/04,6400m),C1(24/04,7000m),C2(13/05,7600m),C3(14/05,8300m),xxx(15/05,8700m)
agency: Nepal Exploration (NEPA) Treks
routememo:
  High point team left C3 on 14 May at 10 pm. Weather calm but cold. When they reached about 8700m, Berry saw body of dead Japanese climber who died on summit being lowered. He did not want to carry on up even though he was feeling strong. He was disillusioned; they turned back at about 11 am. Berry said Sherpas lowered body to about 8600m and left it there. He, Pasang and Lila descended to C3, arrived at 6 pm. Next day ABC. 

  Parker got to ABC on 16 April. He left ABC on 20 April as he had to go back to UK for business. He left Kathmandu on 23 April.

  Lil Bahadur Tamang, Suti Khola-5, Khimrang, 1963
    Everest X2 in 16/05/2004 - South
    Cho Oyu X1 in 7/05/2006  - North

  Pasang Kaji Sherpa, Sotang VDC, Solu, 30/11/81, no expedition peaks


expid: EVER07120
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Robin Beadle
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Everest Expedition 2007
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-09
smtdate: 2007-05-16
smttime: 0623
termdate: 2007-05-21
campsites: BC(09/04,5200m),ABC(17/04,6400m),C1(30/04,7000m),C2(14/05,7700m),C3(15/05,8300m),Smt(16/05)
accidents: None except Armour's fainting
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Summit team left C3 at 9:30 pm on 15 May. Day started off snowing, but cleared just before daylight. Many people, but good views from summit. Tebay and Beadle descended to C2, arrived at 5:30 pm. Rest of team descended to C3, arrived at 4:30 pm apart from Blackmun and Pasang who arrived at 7:30 pm. On 17 May Gibson and Taylor descended to ABC from C3, Tebay to ABC from C2. Beadle, Blackmun and Harling to C2. Everybody moved to ABC on 18 May. 

  Armour reached C2 on 14 May, stayed one night, but returned to ABC on 15 May. He had lost consciousness for a few seconds and was scared to go up. 

  Best reached C1 on 14 May, stayed 1 night, but returned to ABC due to sickness. Left BC on 18 May. 

  Wilkinson reached C1 on 14 May, stayed one night and returned to ABC on 15 May. He was feeling sick and tired. Left BC on 18 May.

  Williams reached 7100m on 14 May, but turned back due to chest pain. Left BC on 18 May.

  Sherpas: 
    Nuru Wangchu Sherpa, Pangboche, 18/08/77, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2
    Pasang Bhote Lama, Hatiya-3, Sankhuwasabha, 19/05/86
      Everest South spring 24/5/06 with Adventure Consultants
    Surendra Gurung, Khewang, Taplejung, 10/11/1973, no previous climbing experience
    Thendorje, Pangboche, 22/04/83, Everest X3, Manaslu


expid: EVER07121
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Colombia
leaders: Juan Pablo Ruiz
sponsor: Colsegoros Everest 2007
approach: Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-20
smtdate: 2007-05-23
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2007-05-29
campsites: BC(20/04,5200m),ABC(27/04,6400m),C1(02/05,7000m),C2(21/05,7600m),C3(22/05,8300m),Smt(23-24/05)
accidents: Frostbite on big toe by Gonzalez; pulmonary edema by Lozada
achievment: 1st Colombian women (Bernal and Guzman), 1st Colombian ascent without oxgyen (Ossa)
agency: Ang Nuru Sherpa
routememo:
  Ossa left C3 at 10:30 pm on 22 May with Gonzalez. Just before 2nd Step Gonzalez had very cold feet (neither him nor Ossa were using oxygen) and turned back at 8600m at 3 am. He descended to BC, arrived at 8:30 pm. Ossa spent one hour on summit and descended to ABC after summit, arrived at 5:30 pm.

  24 May summit team left C3 at 10 pm on 23 May. Weather was calm and clear. They spent about 1 hour on summit. Nawang and Giraldo descended to ABC, arrived at 8:30 pm; Guzman and Bernal descended to C1, arrived at 5:30 pm. Ruiz, Jyamchang and Dorje descended to C2, arrived at 3 pm.

  Avila reached 7700m on 21 May. He left C2 in the morning, but after 100m on fixed rope his Jumar froze. He gave up and descended to ABC.

  Barrio reached 7700m on 21 May. His back was hurting, so he descended to ABC. 

  Lozada reached 7400m on 17 May. He was on way to C2, but turned back due to problems with the lungs, possible pulmonary edema, and descended to BC.

  Gonzalez frostbite is not too serious. He will not lose his toe.

  Sherpas:
    Nawang Karsang, Khumjung, 26/11/67 (10/8/24), Everest 24/5/06
    Dorje Khatri Sherpa, Lelep-9, Taplejung, 19/12/68, Everest X1 in 2006
    Ang Nuru, Khumjung, 28/5/69, no expedition peaks
    Jyamchang Bhote, Hungung, Farang VDC, Sankhuwasabha, 13/4/81, Everest X1, 
      Cho Oyu X2


expid: EVER07122
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: S Africa
leaders: Janusz Warchol
sponsor: South African on Everest
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-03
smtdate: 2007-05-15
termdate: 2007-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 8010m due to inability to climb alone to summit
campsites: BC(03/04,5150m),ABC(10/04,6370m),C1(20/04,7035m),C2(14/05,7635m),xxx(15/05,8010m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Warchol during his acclimatization period realized that he alone could not make it to the summit. Then, he planned to try to be above 8000m. Therefore he does not like to say that he had abandoned the expedition. The decision was taken some time in mid-April. He left C2 at 07:00 am NST on 15 May, reached at 8010m at 12:30 pm, rested there for a while and descended to C2, slept there. Next day to ABC. Warchol returned to Kathmandu on 22 May and will leave on 27.


expid: EVER07124
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Duncan Chessell
sponsor: DCXP 2007 Everest North Expedition
countries: Germany, UK, USA
bcdate: 2007-04-23
smtdate: 2007-05-23
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2007-06-07
othersmts: Lhakpa Ri
campsites: BC(23/04),ABC(11/05,6450m),C1(10/05,7050m),C2(21/05,7650m),C3(22/05,8200m),Smt(23/05,05/06)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  First acclimatized on Lhakpa Ri (except Chiew).

  DCXP Everest Expedition led by Duncan Chessell - Spring 2007

  First summit party who left C3 for the top at 2:30 am (NST) on 23 May consisted of Bingham, Chessell, Nagel, North, Remza, Sarah, Namgya, Lhakpa Sherpa, Kusang Tenzing, and Densa Bhote. Sarah, who was very slow and "ran out of steam and time," turned back at 8450m at about 4:30 am and Kusang Tenzing with her and they went down to C1. North turned back at 8500m at 5:00 am and Densa with him; North kept thinking about his one-year-old daughter instead of the mountain, and the descended to ABC. The rest of the party went to the summit between 8:00 and 10:00 am, and all went down to ABC that day.

  The next summit bid was made on 5 June and all in this party got to the top. They were Chiew, Jackson, Sheen, Namgya (again from ABC), Densa Bhote, Pasang Tharke, and Kami Rita. Along with them went an independent Indian, Shekhar Babu, who "literally crawled" up to C1, but then when he started using oxygen from C1, he went very well. The summit party left C3 at midnight and 15 minutes later, and were on the top at 4:50 am (Sheen) to 5:30 am. All down to ABC from 11:00 am (Sheen) to 6:00 pm (Chiew, who was very tired and took his time in his descent).

  Sherpas:
    Namgya/Namgyal Sherpa, 11/8/71, Lelep, Ghunsa, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X1
    Lhakpa Sherpa, 11/10/78, Zarok, Everest X3
    Densa Bhote, 4/11/81, Hungung, Makalu, Cho Oyu 25/05/06
    Pasang Tharke Sherpa, 23/7/71, Thami, Everest X3
    Kami Rita Sherpa, 22/10/77, Thami, Everest X6 (according to him)
    Kusang Tenzing Sherpa, 16/5/84, Lelep, no 8000ers
    Ngata Sherpa, 2/2/76 (9/10/2038), Lelep-9, Taplejung

  Ngata Sherpa was semi-attached to Chessell's expedition and Ronnie Muhl's expedition from same trekking agency (Arun Treks) and he tagged along with Muhl's summit party on 23 May, using oxygen [and summited at 6:00 am well ahead of Chessell's party at 8:00 am].

  Oxygen: Members in the first summit party used it in C2 to high points to C1; in second summit party, Chiew and Jackson from C1 to top to C1, and Sheen in C3 to top to C1. Sherpas in both summit parties in C3 to high points to C2 or C1.

accidents:
  Chiew and Jackson got pneumonia and left BC on 14 May to go down to Zangmu's lower altitude to recover (they returned to BC on 18 May and later summited)


expid: EVER07125
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Werner de Jong
sponsor: Dutch Chomolungma Expedition
bcdate: 2007-04-16
smtdate: 2007-05-21
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2007-05-26
campsites: BC(16/04),ABC(23/04,6400m),C1(05/05,7060m),C2(18/05,7750m),C3(19/05,8200m),Smt(21/05)
accidents: Nothing serious but Nurbu Sherpa slight frostbite
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Dutch Everest expedition led by Werner De Jong, Spring 2007 - 30 May 2007

  Expedition divided into two groups: first summit party of Van den Broek, Hof and three Sherpas, and backup party of De Jong and De Vries as safety for other two members: Hof was very nervous, without experience in the Himalaya.

  Hof climbed without oxygen and wore only shorts, socks and high climbing boots (to just below his knees); his chest was naked. He turned back on 18 May at 7400m because, he told De Jong, his legs were starting to freeze, but De Jong believes Hof was satisfied with the record he had set and felt no need to go higher. So he left the summit party at 7400m and descended to C1 alone and later to ABC alone. (Hof said in Kathmandu that he was completely satisfied with his achievement)

  Van den Broek and three Sherpas on 18 May established C2 at 7750m and on 19th made C3 at 8200m. At 9:00 pm NST on the 19th they left C3 for the summit, but they got only 20 meters above camp; Van den Broek's oxygen system was not working; Kami Sherpa complained that his oxygen system also was not working, so the four men aborted their summit bid and stayed at C3. Kami descended to ABC on the 20th.

  Meanwhile the backup party of De Jong, De Vries and three more Sherpas came up from C2 to C3, and the three Dutchmen, De Jong, De Vries and Van den Broek, and five Sherpas left C3 for a summit bid at 9:00 pm on the 20th. Van den Broek started up first; the Sherpas took a long time getting their boots on and making themselves ready to start, and De Jong was also slow to start. De Vries reached the summit at 6:00 am on the 21st with Tenjen Sherpa and descended to C2; Van den Broek and Nurbu Sherpa were on top at 6:30 am and went down to C2. De Jong reached 8450m. Temba, who was with De Jong when they left C3, seemed to disappear but actually went into a Chinese tent because his oxygen failed, leaving De Jong alone for 15 minutes. Nima came up to De Jong at 8450m, but his oxygen failed and he went back down. De Jong had not realized that he too was not receiving oxygen, but he had no strength left so he went down to C3 and C2.

  Oxygen:
    De Vries used oxygen from C2 to top to C2.
    Tenjen and Nurbu from C3 to top; Tenjen used none in descent, but Nurbu used 
      it to C3.
    De Jong used oxygen from C2 to 8450m and again from C3 to C2.
    Temba and Nima from C3 to their high points to C3.

  Sherpas summiters:
    Nurbu Sherpa, 10/12/1984, Nurbugaon, Makalu, no 8000ers
    Tenjen/Tenzing Sherpa, 1/1/1975, Nurbugaon, Makalu, Everest X2

  Other Sherpas:
    Kami Sherpa, 29/6/66, Tashigaon, Makalu, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1
    Nima Sherpa, 14/2/77, Nurbugaon, Makalu, Everest 21/5/06
    Phurba Ongel Sherpa, 30/7/81, Nurbugaon, Makalu, no 8000ers
    Temba Sherpa, 24/11/72, Tashigaon, Makalu, Everest spring 2006


  Email from Werner De Jong to Miss Hawley - 20 Jan 2007

  From April 4th until 11 we will be on the Langtang trekking. April 12 is for relaxing and arranging the rest of the logistics. We will start to travel to Tibet on April 13, but want to arrive on 16 in BC.

  Wim Hof is the Iceman and is all his life doing experiments with his body in extremely cold situations.

  He has already several world records. In fact he is trained in what Tibetan Monks train themselves. He can generate his inner body heat to his skin and will not freeze standing hours in ice.

  He did demonstrate this all over the world.

  Next week he is going with Discovery Channel to Finland and will run a half marathon above the polorcirkel and only in shorts and with bare feet. This movie will be shown somewhere in the fall.

  On Everest he will try to do every part of the way up in shorts. Every part will be done one time. So, we will several times go up to camp one, but he will do this only one time in shorts. This is the same with every camp. The higher he get the more spectacular it will be.


expid: EVER07126
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Arnold Coster
sponsor: SummitClimb Everest Expedition 2007
countries: Australia, Belgium, Canada, Lithuania, Nepal, Turkey, UK, USA
bcdate: 2007-03-30
smtdate: 2007-05-15
smttime: 0445
termdate: 2007-05-22
campsites: BC(30/03),ABC(05/04,6400m),C1(09/04,7200m),C2(21/04,7850m),C3(10/05,8300m),Smt(15-16,21,23/05)
accidents: Hsu's snowblindness; Jangjiu's frostbite
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  Int'l Everest (north) expedition led by Arnold Coster, Spring 2007 - 3 June 2007 
     (EVRCOST.S07)

  Team summited on 15, 16, 21 and 23 May.

  The first party of Baltutis, Maginelle, Tant, Vandewege, Jangbu and Banba Tseren (Tibetan), left C3 on 14 May at midnight (Chinese time) and summited on the 15th at 7:00-7:30 am (4:45-5:15 NST), and at 9:00 am (7:45 NST) by Tant and Jangbu. Tant, Jangbu and Banba Tseren descended to C3, Vandewege and Maginelle to C2, Baltutis to ABC.

  The second summit party of Adams, Barnett, Crampton, Hsu, plus Tibetans Yundan and Awang Dantzen, started from C3 on the 15th at 4:30 pm (CST) and all were on the top on the 16th at 8:00 am (5:45 NST) except for Hsu, who summited at 12:30 pm (10:15 NST); Hsu was very slow because he was not using oxygen and for other unspecified reasons. He stayed on summit for one and half hours taking pictures with his goggles off and so became snowblind; he had to be escorted down the mountain. All in this party went down to C3 only except for the two Tibetans, who went to C2. (There was a third Tibetan, Jangjiu, who left C3 with this party, but at the summit pyramid turned back because his fingers were freezing and went down to ABC).

  The third summit party of Findik, Kalayci, Vulk, and Tibetans Cheme Thashi and Tsering Dantar, left C3 at 11:00 pm on the 20th and were on the summit at 7:00 am (4:45 NST) of the 21st. All descended to ABC except Kalayci, who stopped in C1.

  The fourth and last summit party of Coster, his wife Maya Sherpa, Hoglin and Jangbu (again from ABC), left C3 at 11:30 pm of the 22nd, summited at 9:00 am (6:45 NST) of the 23rd and descended to C2.

  Oxygen use by members: First summit party: Tant frm C1 to top to C1; the two other Belgians from 7200m to top to C1. Second party: Crampton from 7650m to top to C2; other members from 7350m to top to C1. Third party: Vulk in C1 to top to C1; Findik and Kalayci from 7450m to top to C1. Fourth party: Hoglin from 7500m to top to C1; Coster and Maya Sherpa from C3 to top to about C1. By Sherpas and Tibetans from C2 to top to C3 except by Jangbu in his second ascent, when he used it down to C2.

  Health problems:  
    Hsu got snowblindness
    Non-summiting Tibetan Jangjiu got frostbite on three fingers

  Non-summiting members:
    Davey got to North Col, turned around and left expedition on 25 April (homesick).
    Reisinger went reached 7300m.
    Sibley went to C2.
    Stuckey reached 5800m, learned his wife was pregnant and went home; left 12 Apr.

  Other personnel:
    Jangbu Sherpa, 24/5/67, Patle, Okhaldhunga, Everest X2

  Tibetans:
    Bianba Tseren, 18 years old
    Yundan, 3/12/83, Tingri, Everest 27/5/04 with Mazur's team
    Awang Dantzen, 23 years old
    Cheme Thashi, 21 years old, Nyalam
    Tsering Dantar, 23 years old, Shekhar


expid: EVER07127
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Miroslav Hrad
sponsor: Expedition Medea Cho Oyu & Everest 2007
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-30
smtdate: 2007-05-18
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2007-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to exhausted, alone without oxygen was not possible to climb
othersmts: Attempted Cho Oyu (CHOY-071-23)
campsites: BC(30/04,5775m),ABC(05/05,6375m),C1(07/05,7073m),xxx(18/05,7600m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
primid: CHOY07123
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 04 May at 5700m
  C1 at North Col
  High point at C2.

  Hrad left C1 at 5 am on 18 May, reached 7600m at 11 am, turned back, to ABC at 4 pm. It was not possible to climb alone without oxygen, so gave up. Weather was no problem. Mulac to C1 on 7 May; he was too exhausted and remained at C1. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 25 May and will leave on 3 June.


expid: EVER07129
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Robert Rozmus
sponsor: Polish Evereste 2007 Annapurna Club Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-11
smtdate: 2007-05-15
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2007-05-21
campsites: BC(11/04,5200m),ABC(17/04,6400m),C1(20/04,7000m),C2(08/05,7600m),C3(14/05,8300m),Smt(15-16,18/05)
accidents: 3 members Polish successful expedition
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Hudek and Mingma Temba left C3 at 22:00 hours (NST) on 14 May, reached summit at 07:00 hours on 15, stayed on summit about 30/40 minutes, descended to C3 at about 11:00 hours. Rested for about 30 minutes then to ABC at 19:00 hours. It was good weather day. 

  Dzida and Mingma Dukpa left C3 at 21:00 hours on 15 May, reached summit at 06:00 hours on 16 May. They stayed on summit 30 minutes, descended to C2 at 13:00 hours. Next day to ABC. At the beginning there was snowfall and little windy, but at the summit it was very good weather. There were about 20 people on summit. 

  Rozmus left C3 at 22:30 hours on 17 May. He reached summit at 09:30 hours, stayed there 30 minutes, descended to C3 around 14:00 hours. Next day to ABC. There were about 8-10 people ahead of him and behind him were about 5-6 people. Snowfall in the night of 17 May. Summit weather was very good. 

  The team returned Kathmandu on 22 May and will leave on 26 May.

  Sherpas:
    Mingma Dukpa Sherpa, (15-6-1980), Yaphu-9, claims Tukuche in 2005 (Dutch)
      [note: Dutch did not summit in 2005]
    Mingma Temba Sherpa, (19-1-80), Yaphu-9, summited Everest in 2006 (Spanish)


expid: EVER07130
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Shekhar Babu Bachinepally
sponsor: Indian on Everest
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-05-03
smtdate: 2007-06-05
smttime: 0540
termdate: 2007-06-07
campsites: BC(03/05,5200m),ABC(09/05,6400m),C1(15/05,7000m),C2(21/05,7800m),C3(04/06,8300m),Smt(05/06)
achievment: 1st and youngest from South India to summit Everest
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Bachinepally and Ngima Sherpa left C3 at 9:30 pm NST on 4 June. They reached summit at 5:40 am on 5 June. They stayed on summit about 15 minutes, descended to C3 around 8 am, then to North Col where they spent about one hour and to ABC around 5 pm. Ahead of Bachinepally about 30 minutes Mark [Sheen] of DCXP, a Chessell leader. He was the first one to summit on that day. Then other two members of DCXP and Bachinepally with Sherpas reached the summit. While descending Bachinepally met Jamie [McGuinness], one more person and a woman together with Sherpas almost at the end of the final ridge going up. The weather was very good, while descending wind started at C3 and at C2 the wind was very strong. It was hitting hard at ABC it was Ok. When they left CBC, Russell Brice team was still there. 

  Bachinepally returned to Kathmandu on 8 June and will leave on 12 or 13 June. He is planning to come for Cho Oyu in Autumn.

  Duncan Chessell told Miss Hawley that Shekhar Babu joined DCXP summit push and summited on 5 June. Chessell said Shekhar Babu was literally crawling to C1 but when he went on oxygen at C1. Shekhar Babu climbed very well.

  Sherpa:
    Ngima Nuru Sherpa, Tesho, Namche-4, 6/11/1981 (21/7/2038)
      Summited Everest 7 times in 2007 summited twice from ABC, 1st time with South
      African team led by Ronnie Muhl


expid: EVER07131
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Karl Kobler
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Everest (North Col) Expedition 2007
countries: France, Germany, Norway
bcdate: 2007-04-12
smtdate: 2007-05-16
smttime: 0410
termdate: 2007-05-21
agency: Iceland Trekking (Dorje)
campsites:
  BC(12/04),ABC(19/04,6400m),C1(24/04,7000m),C2(28/04,7500m),C3(14/05,7800m),C4(15/05,8300m),Smt(16/05)

routememo:
  Everest (North Col) expedition led by Kobler, Spring - 28 May 2007

  Summit party of Kobler, Meyer, Moerdre, Da Nima and Mingma left C4 at 9:00 pm NST on 15 May and despite having to break trail, they were first summiters on 16 May at 4:10 am. They had gone to the summit very early in order to avoid the queue at the Second Step. They descended all the way to ABC the same day.

  The expedition left BC on 21 May, except Kobler and the six Sherpas, who stayed to wait for Americans led by Mike Marolt to complete their climb.

  Non-summiting members:
    Kuebler reached C2.
    Plessy reached C1, mountain too big, left expedition 10 May

  Oxygen:
    Members in C3 to top to 7800m; Sherpas from C3 to top to C4

  Sherpa summiters:
    Da Nima Sherpa, 18/6/72, Bhakanje, Solu, Everest X3 including N-S traverse 
      on 18 May 2006
    Mitenjen (called Mingma) Sherpa, 30/7/69, Nurbugaon, Makalu, Cho Oyu 25/9/04


expid: EVER07178
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Iain Peter
sponsor: Jagged Globe Everest Expedition 2007
countries: Ireland, USA
bcdate: 2007-04-06
smtdate: 2007-05-17
smttime: 0710
termdate: 2007-05-21
campsites: BC(06/04,5350m),C1(14/04,6100m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(15/05,7300m),C4(16/05,7900m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  Summit party left C4 for top at 10:00 pm 16 May; all to top 7:10 to 7:30 am of 17th and back to C4 11:30 am. 18 May to C2 on 18 May. BC 19 May. Perfect weather.

  Non-summiting members:

  Bates went very slightly above BC, said he was sick, left expedition 20 April.

  Doble went to C3 on 28 April and down to BC with others, was exhausted. Peter then told him he could not go higher because he would push himself beyond his strength.

  Larsen went to C4 on a Lhotse permit.

  Rutland to C2 on 24 April, had no motivation to go higher.

  Oxygen:
    Members in C3 to top to 7600m by Peter, to C2 by Lehane 
    Sherpas from C4 to top to C4

  Sherpas summiters:
    Pem Chhiri, 16/12/80, Chankhu, Dolakha, Cho Oyu 28/9/05
    Dawa Gelji, 18/4/75, Chankhu, Dolakha, Cho Oyu X2
    Pemba Rita, 29/8/79, Beding, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Wangchu, 20/11/67, Phurte and Thamiteng (has two houses), Everest South X1?


expid: EVER07133
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Penelope Goddard
sponsor: New Zealander on Everest
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-18
smtdate: 2007-05-16
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2007-05-21
campsites: BC(18/04,5300m),ABC(23/04,6500m),C1(26/04,7000m),C2(06/05,7500m),C3(15/05,8300m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 22 April at 6200m
  C1 at North Col.

  Miss Goddard and Ang Dawa left C3 on 15 May at 10:30 pm (NST), reached summit at 8:30 am on 16 May, stayed at summit at about 30 minutes, descended to C3 at 11:30 am, then continued to C1. Ahead of Goddard there were about 15 people on the summit and behind here were about 20 people on 15th night. There was snow storm, but cleared up before sun came up. Very good weather on 16 May.

  Goddard returned to Kathmandu on 22 May and will leave on 9 June.

  Sherpa:
    Ang Dawa Sherpa, 18/11/84, Kharikhola, 1st time on Everest


expid: EVER07179
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Guy Cotter
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Everest Expedition 2007
countries: Australia, Belgium, UK, USA
bcdate: 2007-04-09
smtdate: 2007-05-20
smttime: 0500
campsites: BC(09,10/04),C1(16/04,6100m),C2(18/04,6400m),C3(01/05,7400m),C4(19/05,7900m),Smt(20-21/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  C1 at start of unbroken Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Adventure Consultants Everest led by Guy Cotter - Spring 2007

  1st summit bid by Michael Roberts party left C4 at 9:30 pm in 19 May, on top 5:00 am of 20th and C4 9:30 am and down to C2 at 1:30 pm. 

  Second summit party left C4 10:00 pm of 20 May and on top from 7:04 to 7:33 am of 21 May. All stayed at col from noon to 3:30 pm. These people also helped get USA member down from South Col afternoon of 21st (she had been told at BC by HRA doctors and Grocott members because she had chest infection she should not climb).

  Summiters:

  20 May: Hayden, Roberts, Pasang Bhote, Lhakpa Dorje, Nima Dorje.

  21 May: Arnett, Benitez, Burrows, Cotter, Gillespie, Glorie, Moore, Sedon, Pasang Tenzing, Dawa Jangbu, Phu Tashi, Sonam Jangbu, Pemba Chhoti, Mingma Tenzing, Sange Dorje, Temba Sherpa, Tendi Sherpa, Tashi Thundu, Phurba Ridar Bhote, Dawa Finjo Lama Bhote.

  David Tait made a north-south traverse with Phurba Tashi and summited on 16 May. He belonged to Russell Brice's team on the north side and was a member of this expedition for his descent on the south side -- and for his ascent from the south side in his proposed double traverse, which he did not actually attempt [listed on Brice's team].

  Non-summiting members:

  Dunjey reached 6300m on 1 May, mountain too big and climate too cold, left expedition 3 May.

  McGibbon got to South Summit on 21 May, ran out of steam, returned to C4.

  Slachman reached C3 on 1 May, but was moving too slowly and was told on 15 May he could not be in a sumit party, so went no higher.

  Oxygen: 
    Members in C3 to summit to C3 
    Sherpas from C4 to summit to C4

  Accidents, etc: only serious medical problems were Moore's abscessed tooth, which was taken care of at BC by Hayden, a dentist, and his four cracked ribs caused by heavy coughing while on his way to the summit.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Pasang Bhote, 3/9/82, Hatiya, Chepuwa-1, Makalu, Everest 19/5/06
    Lhakpa Dorje, 16/11/61, Gudel-4, Solu, Makalu X3, Everest X2, Lhotse X1
    Nima Dorje, 18/10/74, Pangboche, Everest X2
    Pasang Tenzing, 21/1/78, Phortse, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X1
    Dawa Jangbu, 22/4/73, Pangboche, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X1
    Phu Tashi, 1973, Pangboche, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X2
    Sonam Jangbu, 24/12/84 (10/9/2041), Phortse, 1st 8000er
    Pemba Chhoti, 25/11/72 (10/8/2029), Namche-7, Thami, Everest 24/5/06
    Mingma Tenzing, 1967/68 (2024), Pare, Namche-6, 1st 8000er
    Sange Dorje, 14/4/78 (1/1/2035), Khumjung, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Temba Sherpa, 24/6/68 (11/3/2025), Khumjung, Everest 18/5/06
    Tashi Thundup/Thundu, 10/4/85, Khumjung, Everest X3
    Tendi Sherpa, 13/10/68 (28/6/2025), Gudel-4, Solu, 1st 8000er
    Phurba Ridar Bhote, 1958, Chepuwa-4, Makalu, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2
    Dawa Finjo Lama Bhote, 5/9/88 (20/5/2045), Hatiya-1, Makalu, 1st 8000er


expid: EVER07136
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Jamie McGuinness
sponsor: Project Himalaya Everest 2007
countries: France, UK, USA
approach: Lhasa, Xigatse->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-23
smtdate: 2007-05-24
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2007-06-07
campsites: BC(23/04,5150m),ABC(28/04,6400m),C1(02/05,7000m),C2(22/05,7650m),C3(23/05,8210m),Smt(24/05,05/06)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  24 May summit team left C3 at 11:30 pm on 23 May. It was very windy. A Chinese commercial team (led by Mr Wang and handled by Tibet Himalaya expeditions) summited same day. Gatta descended to C1 after summit, arrived at 4 pm. Nima Chhiri to ABC. On 25 May Gatta to ABC and 26 May both to BC. 

  5 June summit team left C3 at midnight. It was very windy. Summited at 7:30 am and spent 15 minutes on summit. All descended to C2, arrived at 5 pm. On 6 June to ABC.

  Weir got to C1 on 2 May and 21 May, spent night there both times. He abandoned climb due to giardia.

  Attwood reached 8500m (just below 1st Step) on 5 June. He turned back as he felt tired and exhausted. He descended to ABC with Pasang Gombu and they arrived at 5 pm.

  Gatta left BC on 27 May.

  Sherpas:
    Namgyal Sherpa, Rakha, Khotang, 5/10/77
      Summited Everest North with Everest Peace Project on 18/5/2006, 
      Cho Oyu and Everest in 2005 and 3 times more on Cho Oyu
    Nima Chhiri, Gudel-4, Solu, 30/4/77
       Summited Everest North with Project Himalaya on 25//5/2006
    Mindu Chhiri, Kurima, Lokhim-9, Solu, 29/8/71
       Summited Everest North with Project Himalaya on 25/5/2006


expid: EVER07180
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Vernon Tejas
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Everest Expedition 2007
countries: Canada, Turkey, UK
bcdate: 2007-04-12
smtdate: 2007-05-22
smttime: 0710
termdate: 2007-05-25
campsites: BC(12/04),C1(19/04,6900m),C2(21/04,6500m),C3(02/05,7200m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  The summit party consisted of all those who reached the top plus Bullard. They left C4 at 9:30 pm on 21 May. Bullard got to 8600m, developed a respiratory problem, and from there went down to C2 that day. The others summited from 7:10 to 11:36 am on the 22nd and descended to C4. On the 23rd they went to C2 and on the 24th to BC.

  The first summiters were Morton, Ogilvie, Stawiecki with Tshering Dorje at 7:10 am. They were followed by Beeton, Berger, Eren, Griber, Hanlon, King, Macy, Tejas and nine more Sherpas.

  Non-summiting members:
    Bullard (see summit party).
    Henke was base camp manager and stayed in BC.
    Jardine reached C2, had "a medical condition" and left on 29 April.
    LeClaire aslo reached C2, had "a medical condition" and left on 24 April.
    Vescovo reached C2, then a family emergency caused him to leave on 25 April.

  Oxygen: 
    Members in C3 to high points to C4, or by some to C2. 
    Sherpas from C4 to top to C4.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Chuwang/Chewang Nima, 20/8/8/67, Tesho, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X13
    Gyalzen Sherpa, 22/4/61, Thami, Dhaulagiri X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Kami Rita, 17/1/70, Thami, Cho Oy X3, Everest X10
    Lhakpa Rita, 9/9/66, Thami, Cho Oyu X3, Everest X9
    Mingma Chhiri/Chhiring, 22/7/68, Thami, Everest X8
    Mingma Dorje, 28/5/69, Waku-1, Everest 24/5/04
    Nima Kancha, 29 yrs old, Thamo, 1st 8000er
    Pasang Rita, 32 yrs old, Thami, 1st 8000er
    Phura Kancha, 31 yrs old, Thami, Everest & Cho Oyu in 2006 with Alpine Ascents
      teams
    Tshering Dorje, 20/7/70, Kharikhola, Cho Oyu X4, Everest X8


expid: EVER07181
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Mike Grocott
sponsor: Caudwell Xtreme Everest
countries: Ireland, S Africa, Spain, USA
bcdate: 2007-04-05
smtdate: 2007-05-23
smttime: 0629
termdate: 2007-06-04
accidents: Doyle's cerebral edema
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
campsites:
  BC(05/04),C1-Sherpas(10/04,6100m),C1-Members(17/04,6400m),C2(21/04,6400m),C3(28/04,7100m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(23-24/05)

routememo:
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  The expedition sent climbers to the summit on 23 and 24 May. Those on the 23rd were Hart, Grocott, Martin, Rasmussen, Imray, Dhillon, Pema Tharke, Mingma Tshering, Pasang Tenzing, Pema Tshering, Pasang Nuru, Ongda  Gyalzen, Thundu Sherpa, Tshering Pemba, Dendi Sherpa, and Tashi Sherpa. 

  On top on the 24th were Brown, McMorrow, O'Dwyer, Windsor, Phurba Gyalzen, Ang Kaji, Pemba Nuru, and Lila Bahadur Basnet.

  Non-summiting members:
    Ahuja went to South Col on 20 May as planned on Lhotse permit.
    Doyle went to C3 on 18 May, got cerebral edema, escorted to C2 by Vercueil 
      and recovered.
    Gunning got to 8400m on 24 May in summit party, turned back very tired
    Hoyland to C2 on 21 May, had medical problems and did no more climbing.
    Khosravi went to South Col on 20 May as planned on Lhotse permit.
    Levett as expedition doctor went to C2 only.
    Lowe to C2 only as planned.
    Richards to C2 only as planned.
    Segarra to C2 only as planned and left expedition 15 May.
    Tankard to C1 only as planned and left expedition 15 May.
    Vercueil went to South Col on 20 May as planned on Lhotse permit.

  Oxygen: 200 bottles were consumed by members and Sherpas in summit pushes and by members who stayed for several days conducting scientific research at C4 (three members for five days, one for four days and five or six for three days each). In summit bids, most members in C3 to high points to C4; Dhillon and Brown in C4 to top to C4; Sherpas in C4 to top to and in C4.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Pema Tharke, 19/5/61, Lamabagar-3, Dolakha, Cho Oyu 29/9/05
    Mingma Tshering/Tsiri/Chhiri, 2/8/70, Beding, Everest X11, Cho Oyu X2, 
      Dhaulagiri 1 11/10/93, K2 X1
    Pasang Tenzing/Tenzi, 1/10/84, Beding, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1
    Pema Tshering, 16/6/70, Walung, Makalu-9, Dhaulagiri I X1, Everest X2
    Pasang Nuru, 17/3/73, Kharikhola, Cho Oyu X2, Lhotse X1
    Ongda Gyalzen, 23/2/81 (11/12/2037), originally from Makalu-9 but migrated 
      to Darjeeling and is Indian citizen, Everest 14/5/06 with Indians
    Thundu, 18/2/78, Beding, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2
    Tshering Pemba, 22/11/85 (7/8/2042), Beding, 1st 8000er
    Dendi, 22/11/76 (7/8/2033), Gorakhani-2, Solu, 1st 8000er
    Tashi, 4/12/77, Bung-9, Solu, Cho Oyu 8/5/06
    Dawa Tenzing/Tenzi/Tenji, 31/10/75, Beding, Everest X3, Cho Oyu 2/10/06
    Phura/Phurba Gyalzen, 24/1/74, Pangkoma, Kangch X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Lila Bahadur Basnet, 31/3/83 (17/12/2039), Lamabagar-3, Dolakha, 1st 8000er
    Ang Kaji, 21/8/84 (5/5/2041), Kharikhola, 1st 8000er
    Pemba Nuru, 17/1/77, Thamiteng, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1


expid: EVER07182
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Willie Benegas
sponsor: Mountain Madness Everest Expedition 2007
countries: Canada, Jordan, Norway
bcdate: 2007-04-07
smtdate: 2007-05-16
smttime: 0745
termdate: 2007-05-27
campsites: BC(07/04,5350m),C1(14/04,6100m),C2(19/04,6400m),C3(28/04,7200m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(16,24/05)
accidents: Smith's edema; Chhongba Nurbu frostbitten toes and chopper from BC to KTM
agency: Mountain Madness
routememo:
  C1 at spot safer from avalanching
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Main summit party left C4 at 9:00 pm on 15 May; at 8:00 pm Benegas, Nima Wandeki, Changba Nuru and Pasang Tendi left early to fix ropes from Balcony to top. On top at 7:45 am 16 May and all down to C4 to sleep. The summiters on 16 May were Benegas, Dalzell, Evensen, Tryti, Lhakpa Nuru, Changba Nuru, Nima Wandeki, Tshering Wangchu, Pasang Tendi, Ang Pemba and Maila Tamang.

  Benegas, Smith and Pasang Tendi left C4 at 9:00 pm and on top 2:50 am 24 May and South Col 5:45 am and on to C2 at 11:30 am. On the 24th they were Benegas and Pasang Tendi again with Smith, who had developed a bad case of pulmonary edema in C2 on 7 May, gone down to Namche Bazar to recover, and returned to BC about the 14th.

  Non-summiting members:
    Henley went into the Icefall to 5500m with Salmeh and left expedition with 
      him on 1 May.
    Salmeh went to 5500m in the Icefall, ran out of steam, and left expedition 
      on 1 May.

  Oxygen: Members in the first summit party used it in C3 to top to and in C4; Sherpas in C4 to top to C4. In the second summit push both members and their Sherpas used it in C2 to the summit to C4; Smith started at a low altitude because of his recent case of edema, and Benegas and Pasang Tendi because they had used a lot of their strength while summiting with the first group.

  Sherpas summiters:
    Lhakpa Nuru/Norbu, 23/5/78, Namche Bazar, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X3
    Changba Nuru/Chhongba Nuru, 1964, Tate, Chaurikharka-7, Everest X5, 
      Dhaula X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Nima Wandeki/Ongdi, 22/6/1973, Kharikhola, Everest X3, Lhotse X1, Kangch X1
    Tshering Wangchu, 16/3/83, Thamo, Everest X1, Lhotse X1
    Ang Pemba, 25/7/78, Thami, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Maila Tamang, 1967-8 (2024), Narayanthan-6, Kavre, Cho Oyu 1/10/06
    Pasang Tendi, 27/10/83, Yaphu, Makalu, Everest X3


expid: EVER07183
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Mark Tucker
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Everest Expedition 2007
countries: Canada, Mexico, S Africa, Singapore, UK
bcdate: 2007-04-04
smtdate: 2007-05-19
smttime: 0515
termdate: 2007-05-21
campsites: BC(04/03,5350m),C1(18/04,6035m),C2(22/04,6500m),C3(02/05,7300m),C4(10/05,7900m),Smt(19-22/05)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  Expedition sent climbers to the summits on 19, 20, 21 and 22 May.

  On the 18th, Bredenkamp, Hancock, Salazar, Waldron, Pasang Rinji, Mingma Tshering, Dawa Nuru, Mingma Tenzing, Chewang Lendu, and Ang Namgyal left C4 at 9:20 pm for the summit; Schlimme left C4 ten minutes later and at about 8300m, "respiratory distress" forced him to turn back. All the others got to the top; Salazar was the first member to summit, at 5:15 am on the 19th, and Bredenkamp was the last that day, at 8:25 am. Salazar got down to C2 at 2:05 pm; Bredenkamp, Hancock and Waldron descended only to C4.

  On the 19th, Campbell, Kay, Lamb, Mello, Patterson, Smelser, Gyalzen Dorje, Ang Karma, Panuru, Kami Tshering, Mingma Dorje, Panuru, Samduk Dorje Tamang, Mingmar Sherpa, Dawa Sona, and Karma Serki went for the top between 8:55 and 9:10 pm. They summited on the 20th between 4:53 am (Patterson) and 7:30 am (Smelser).

  The summiters on the 21st left C4 from 9:40 (Haugen) to 11:55 (Hahn) pm on the 20th and were on the summit at 5:00 am (Haugen and Grom) to 6:55 am (Hahn) the next day. The Sherpas who summited on the 21st were Cheppi Bhote, Lhakpa Bhote, Karma Rita, Nima Karma, and Phinzo Dorje.

  The last summit party consisted of the two Singaporeans and Jamling Bhote. Goh left C4 at 8:15 pm on 21 May not using oxygen, got to just below the Balcony at 2:45 am, but was moving much too slowly and turned back there, started to use oxygen, and went down to C2 on it. Ang and Jamling Bhote set out from C4 at 9:30 pm on the 21st and were on the summit at 8:15 am on the 22nd.

  Other non-summiting members:
    Jones went to C2 only, was not acclimatizing well, left team on 1 May.
    Loeffler got to C2, had "health issues" and left expedition on 8 May.
    Tucker went into the Icefall, no further.
    Warren got to C3, developed chest infection.

  Oxygen: General pattern: members in C3 to high point to C2; Sherpas in C4 to high point to or in C4.

  Sherpa summiters:

  19 May
    Dawa Nuru, aka Danuru, 26/10/78, Phortse, Cho Oyu X7, Everest X8, Manaslu X1
    Mingma Tshering/Mingma Chhiring, 26/4/72, Phortse, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X4
    Mingma Tenzing/Tenjing, 1/6/86, Phortse, Cho Oyu X2, Everst X2
    Pasang Rinji, 18/1/77 (5/10/2033), Phortse, Everest 31/5/05
    Chewang/Tsewang Lendu, 19/4/80, Phortse, Lhotse & Manaslu in 2006
    Ang Namgyal, 21/6/80, originally Phortse now Pangboche

  20 May
    Kami Tshering, aka Ang Tshering/Chhiring, 1962, Pangboche, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X5
    Ang Karma, 25/7/74, Phortse, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X1
    Dawa Sona/Da Sona/Da Sonam, 1965, Pangboche, Everest X6
    Gyalzen/Gyaljen Dorje, 17/2/88, Phortse, 1st 8000er
    Karma Serki/Sarki, 25/1/87, Phortse, 1st 8000er
    Mingma Dorje, 22/7/65 (7/4/2022), Phortse, Everest 26/5/03 & 30/5/06 
     (with DOB 21/6/65)
    Panuru/Pasang Nuru/Pa Nuru, 22/5/68, Phortse, Cho Oyu X3, Everest X5
    Phu Nuru, 16/5/80, Phortse, Cho Oyu X6, Everest X2
    Samduk Dorje Tamang, 31/5/83, Pangboche, Everest 18/5/06
    Mingmar, 1970-71, Jantarkhani, 1st 8000er

  21 May
    Chhepi/Chhebbi Bhote, 30/9/74, Hatiya-3, Sankhuwasabha, Everest X1, Makalu X1
    Finjo Dorje, 03/9/86, Pangboche, 1st 8000er
    Karma Rita, 21/1/76, Phortse, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X3
    Lhakpa Bhote, 5/11/70, Hatiya-3, 1st 8000er
    Nima Karma, 30/6/83, Phortse, Everest 18/5/06

  22 May
    Jamling Bhote, 28/12/77, Hatiya-3, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X1


expid: EVER07144
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Serbia
leaders: Dragan Jacimovic
sponsor: Serbia on Everest
countries: Canada, UK
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-08
smtdate: 2007-05-20
smttime: 0615
termdate: 2007-05-24
campsites: BC(08/04,5200m),ABC(15/04,6400m),C1(03/05,7150m),C2(18/05,7800m),C3(19/05,8300m),Smt(20/05)
accidents: 1st Serbian woman
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Summit team left C3 at 11 pm on 19 May. Weather was clear, not windy. 7 Summits Club was also on summit push. When they got to summit, there were two climbers (Adventure Consultants from south side). Team spent an hour on average on summit. They descended to C2 where they spent the night. They arrived there between 6 pm and 7 pm. Team descended to ABC on 21 May.

  Dragicevic reached 8530m on 20 May at about 2 am. He felt tired and had cold fingers so he turned back. He went to C3 and slept till summit team arrived. 

  Jacimovic (leader) never planned to go above ABC. He was coordinating from there.

  Nikolic got to 7600m on 18 May, but he was too slow. He spent at C2 in one of Brice's tents (7600m) and descended on 19 May.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Nima Thundu, 20/4/80, Pangboche
    Phur Sona, aka Ang Sona, 17/7/69, Pangboche
    Lhakpa Chhiri, aka Sonam, 11/11/74 (17/11/74?), Pangboche, Everest X4, K2 X1
    Lhakpa Tharke, 15/5/81 (14/5/81?), Phortse, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1


expid: EVER07184
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: David Ratcliffe
sponsor: Adventure Guide Qomolangma Expedition 2007
approach: Lukla->Namche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2007-04-06
smtdate: 2007-05-21
smttime: 0840
termdate: 2007-05-23
campsites: BC(06/04,5300m),C1(12/04,6050m),C2(13/04,6400m),C3(16/05,7100m),C4(19/05,8000m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Climb High Himalaya
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 above Khumbu Glacier
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Ratcliffe and Nuri Chhiri Sherpa left South col at 8 pm on 20 May, reached summit at 8:40 am on 21 May, stayed on summit about 45 minutes, descended to South Col at 3 pm. Next day to BC. The weather on summit day was very good and warm. Ahead of Ratcliffe team there were about 30 people and behind were about 2-3 people. Ratcliffe returned Kathmandu on 26 May and will leave on 27 May.

  Sherpa:
    Nuru/Nuri Chhiri, (26-4-1970) Bhakanje-2
      Summited: Pumori in 1997 (Italians)
      Lhotse in 2003 (Koreans) 
      Everest Tibet in 2004 (Koreans)


expid: EVER07148
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yoshitomi Okura
sponsor: Adventure Guide Qomolangma Expedition 2007
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-27
smtdate: 2007-05-15
smttime: 0650
termdate: 2007-05-20
campsites: BC(27/04,5178m),ABC(03/05,6460m),C1(12/05,7066m),C2(13/05,7850m),C3(14/05,8300m),Smt(15/05)
achievment: Funahashi oldest Japanese woman to reach 8820m
agency: Rolwaling Trek
routememo:
  Funahashi, Ishii, Okura, Nima Nurbu, Pasang Kidar and Dawa Nuru Sherpa left C3 at 22:00 hours (NST) on 14 May. Okura and Dawa Nuru reached summit at 06:50 hours. They stayed on summit one and half hours. Ishii and Pasang Kidar summited at 08:27 hours. Okura and Dawa Nuru descended to Second Step waiting for other team members. Ishii stayed on summit about 20 minutes and while descending Ishii collapsed at about 8650m at 9:30 am and died within few minutes. His body was buried by 3 Sherpas at the end of triangular snow field. Okura arrived C3 at 16:30 hours and slept there. There Funahashi and Nima Nurbu reached up to 8820m at about 09:00 hours. There were many people on the queue. She could not wait for her turn, then she and Nima Nurbu turned back to C3. Next day all members and Sherpas descended to ABC about 20:00 hours. Summit day weather was very good. No wind, no clouds. Ahead of Okura team there were about 10 to 12 climbers and behind maybe 20-30 climbers. Okura saw at the summit Buddha's statue in a glass box with lots of kata and prayer flags. 

  Okura used oxygen from C2 to summit to C2. Ishii from C1 summit to 8600m. Funahashi from ABC to 8820m to C1. Sherpa summiters used oxygen from C3 to summit to C3. Nima Nurbu from C3 to 8820m to C3.

  Sherpas:
    Nima Nurbu Sherpa, 20/2/80, Thamiteng, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X2
    Pasang Kitar/Kidar, 25/2/79, Beding, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X3
    Dawa Nuru, 25/9/63, Thami, Everest X8, Cho Oyu X1


expid: EVER07185
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Jim Williams
sponsor: Exploradus Everest and Nuptse
approach: Lukla
bcdate: 2007-04-12
smtdate: 2007-05-18
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2007-05-28
othersmts: Attempted Nuptse (NUPT-071-01)
campsites: BC(12/04,5200m),C1(17/04,6000m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(04/05,7100m),C4(16/04,8000m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
primid: NUPT07101
routememo:
  On 16 May summit team left at 10 pm, but turned back at about 11 pm due to Robert Vaughn's cold feet. They spent all day at C2 and left again at 8 pm on 17 May. Weather was calm and clear. Arrived at top at sunrise; about 10 other people on summit. They spent about 2 hours on summit. Vaughn hit 3 golfballs from top. Descended to C4, arrived at 4 pm. On 19 May descent to C2 and 20 May to BC.

  Vaughn waited at BC as his son came to see him and he waited for Nuptse team to come back. They left together with Nuptse team.

  Dawa Sherpa got to 8300m on 18 May; he was cook on South Col (w/o oxygen).

  Sherpas:
    Nima Tashi, Pangboche, Khumjung-7, 4/4/60, Everest X7
    Nima Tamang, Pangboche, Khumjung-7, 1979, no expeditions
    Dawa Sherpa, Pangboche, Khumjung-7, 1954, no expeditions


expid: EVER07186
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Nathan Figg
sponsor: Sky High Scouts on Everest
approach: Lobuje East->Island Peak->Everest BC
bcdate: 2007-04-14
smtdate: 2007-05-21
smttime: 0650
termdate: 2007-05-25
campsites: BC(14/04,5200m),C1(19/04,6100m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(19/05,7200m),C4(20/05,8000m),Smt(21/05)
accidents: 8 frostbitten toes on both feet by Fry; retinal hemorrhage by Smith
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Summit team left C4 at 10 pm on 20 May. Weather was calm and clear. They spent about one hour on summit descended to C4, arrived at 11:30 am. On way up Fry noticed his cold feet but decided to go for summit despite cold feet. When he got to C4 he saw that 8 of his toes were brown. He warmed them up in his sleeping bag. The next day team descended to BC. Fry was able to walk down himself. He was helicoptered out on 24 May. Went to CIWEC and doctors said he could keep toes.

  Smith got to C2 on 20 April but did not stay night (team's acclimatization). Stayed at C1, BC on 21 April. When he got to BC he noticed a blind spot in his eye. He saw HRA doctors, who told him to go down. He left BC on 24 May to go "back" to KTM.

  Figg reached C3 on 2 May, but did not stay night (acclimatization trip). On summit push he left BC with rest of team on 17 May. He had a cold and rested in C1 for one day. On 18 May he reached C2 but did not go any further due to his cold. He stayed there until summit team came down.

  On 21 May Pemba Tenzing was involved in rescuing Usta Bista from C4 to C2. She was put in a stretcher and dragged down to C2. They left C4 at 11:30 am and arrived at C2 at 7 am.

  Sherpas:
    Naga/Nanda Dorje, Khumjung, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X3
    Phurba Sherpa, Phurte, Namche-4, 1958, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1
    Lhakpa Nuru, Phurte, Namche-4, 21/5/75, this was his 1st Everest ascent
    Thukten Dorje, Thami, Namche-7, 38 years 30/6/68, Everest X5
    Pemba Tenzing, Khumjung, 6/1/88, 1st ascent


expid: EVER07193
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Victor Saunders
sponsor: Saunders International Everest Expedition
countries: Belgium, USA
bcdate: 2007-04-12
smtdate: 2007-05-17
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2007-05-21
campsites: BC(12/04),C1(20/04,6000m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(27/04,7100m),C4(16/05,7900m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Summit party of 6 foreigners and 5 Sherpas left C4 on 16 May at 11:00 pm and all on summit at 9:00-10:30 am 17 May except David Larson who was slow and summited at 1:00 pm; all to C4 that night about 1:00-2:00 pm and 6:00 pm (Larson). Windless and warm day. Next night in C2.

  Members used oxygen from C3 to top to and in C4 to C3; Sherpas from C4 to top to C4.

  Summit Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Thundu, 20/5/70, Pangboche, Annapurna I X1, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X4
    Tika Bahadur Tamang, 34 years old, Rampur-8, Ramechap, Cho Oyu X1
    Pemba Gyalzen, 4/9/74, Phortse, Everest 24/5/06
    Dorje Gyalzen, Pangboche, 16/7/82 (1/4/2039)
    Ang Namgyal/Tshering Nyamgal, Pangboche, 14/6/84 (1/3/2041), Everest X1, 
      Cho Oyu X1


expid: EVER07187
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Simon Hall
sponsor: British Military Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2007-04-15
smtdate: 2007-05-22
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2007-05-26
campsites: BC(15/04,5350m),C2(20/04,6400m),C3(20/05,7100m),C4(21/05,7900m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  British Military Everest Expedition led by Simon Hall

  The summit party of all eight climbing members and four Sherpas left C4 at 9:30 pm on the 21st of May for the top. The summit people were Clark, Hall, Jackson, Joshi, Lancashire, MacDonald, Porter, Wilkinson, Pasang Ila, Nurbu Bhote Lama, Chayang Jangbu Bhote and Kalzang Dorje. They reached the top on 22 May between 6:00 am (Porter and Wilkinson) and 8:30 am (Joshi).

  They returned to C4 from 10:00 am to 1:00 pm. Next day they descended to C2. On the 24th they were involved in escorting the Nepalese woman with the Democratic Everest team, Usha Bista (who wore a Maoist badge), down to BC.

  Oxygen: Members used it from C3 to C4 to top to C3. Climbing Sherpas from C4 to top to C4; kitchen boy from C4 to Balcony to C4.

  Sherpas: The total number of Sherpas with this team  unknown to Hall. He, Kenton Cool and Victor Saunders shared Sherpas with Henry Todd, who hired them, and the Sherpas were switched around amongst them, so men who had been climbing with Hall's team were transferred and suddenly another, new man turned up. This was "just a bit irritating," Hall said. They had a total of four (plus the climbing kitchen boy) at any given time.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Pasang Ila/Yila, 17/12/77 (2/9/2034), Pangboche, Everest X3
    Nurbu Bhote Lama, 29/5/81 (12/7/2038), Hatiya-3, Makalu
    Chayang Jangbu/Jyabu Bhote, 28/9/1979 (12/7/2036), Hatiya-1, Makalu, 1st 8000er
    Kalzang Dorje, 23/7/81 (8/4/2038), Pangboche, 1st 8000er


expid: EVER07153
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
route2: N Col-NE Ridge (up); SE Ridge-S Col (down)
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Everest Expedition 2007
countries: China, Denmark, Lithuania, Japan, Switzerland, UK, USA
bcdate: 2007-04-05
smtdate: 2007-04-30
smttime: 0525
termdate: 2007-06-19
achievment: Yanagisawa oldest summiter
agency: Mountain Experience
campsites:
  BC(05/04,5141m),ABC(09/04,6376m),C1(26/04,7024m),C2(12/05,7511m),C3-Members(13/05,7806m),C3(28/04,7806m),C4(14/05,8250m),Smt(30/04,15,21-22/05,14/06)

routememo:
  Himalayan Experience Everest led by Russell Brice - Spring 2007

  Expedition's first summiters were five Sherpas who fixed the rope to the top on 30 April: Phurba Tashi, Dorje Sonam Gyalzen, Son Dorje, Lakpa Nuru (Phortse), and Lhakpa Nuru (also Phortse).

  Next summiters, who reached the top on 15 May, were Tait and Phurba Tashi (again from ABC) in a north-south traverse (see below for further notes about Tait). 

  The first large summit party consisted of Baber, Medvetz, Li, Staples, Vaiciulis, Wardle, Woodward, Ziel, Sherpas Lhakpa Nuru (again from ABC), Son Dorje (again from ABC), Nuru Gyalzen, Pasang Kami, Nima Tenzing, and Tibetans Tashi Namgyal, Lobchong, and Dor Jee. They left C4 at 0:42 hours (NST) on 21 May and were on the top at 5:25 am (Staples) to 7:27 am (Medvetz). Members descended to C3, Sherpas to ABC same day.

  Second large summit party consisted of one member who turned back (Valloton), and the successful climbers, who were Crouse, Jensen, Kobayashi, Kuraoka, Whetu, Yanagisawa, Yoshida, Nima Wangchu, Dorje Sonam Gyalzen (again from ABC), Dawa Tenji, Tshering Tashi and Ang Chhiring, and Tibetans Tenzing and Pemba. They left C4 at 0:03 am (the four Japanese members and their Sherpas) and 1:03 am on 22 May and were on the summit at 6:10 am (Crouse and Tenzing) to 8:10 am (Japanese and their Sherpas). The Japanese party went down to C3, the other members and Sherpas to ABC.

  Yanagisawa is the oldest person to summit Everest: on 22 May, he was 71 years and 63 days old, whereas his predecessor was 70 years and 225 days old. Brice said Yanagisawa climbed well, on his own two legs, not carried, pushed or pulled to the top.

  Primary Himex expedition left base camp on 27 May. Brice, Staples, Woodward and some Sherpas stayed on until 19 June.

  Two of this expedition's deputy leaders, Staples and Woodward, summited with Conrad Anker's team on 14 June. Anker's film party members were unable to function at high altitude, so Staples and Woodward substituted for them to do their filming.

  Brice worked closely with Conrad Anker's expedition. His people established camps before Anker and party arrived, and Brice's Sherpas did other chores for them. Five of them climbed up to the Second Step to remove the ladders and ropes for Anker and Leo Houlding to scale it without these post-1924 aids, and they went to the summit from there on the same day, 14 June.

  The trail this spring was very fast, which enabled so many of this team's climbers to move up and down rapidly, descend all the way from summit to ABC on the same day, and many unskilled climbers on other teams to reach high altitudes and even to succeed. The route was fast because it was stamped down by Brice's Sherpas fixing the ropes, then light snowfall froze the route; when climbers came along later, they moved on top of a thin layer of snow covering the frozen trail right underneath.

  This expedition moved away from the trail and dumped down the mountainside the bodies of the Czech climber, Libor Kozak, who died this spring, and last spring's David Sharp and a Frenchman whose name Brice didn't remember (presumably Jacques Letrange). The 1996 Indian body known as Green Boots was not removed; it was under the snow, and earlier efforts to move it were unsuccessful since it is solidly frozen in place.

  Oxygen: All members, Sherpas and Tibetans used it from 7900m to top and down until it ran out (some to about C3, some even to C1).

  Non-summiting members:
    Brice led his expedition from North Col.
    Huelskamp reached North Col on 11 May; not experienced enough to climb higher.
    Valloton was in summit party going for top on 22 May, but stopped at 8000m; 
      she refused to use oxygen and said she was too cold (on a warm day).
    Wakui reached North Col, then said he was not feeling well and left the 
      expedition.

  Sherpa and Tibetan summiters:

  30 April
    Phurba Tashi, 24/5/71, Khumjung, Everest X10, Cho Oyu X5
    Dorje Sonam Gyalzen, Phortse, 24/5/81, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X1
    Son Dorje, 22/5/63, Phortse, Everest X4
    Lakpa Nuru, 1962, Khumjung/Phortse, Everest 15/5/06, Manaslu 30/9/06
    Lhakpa Nuru, 18/6/80, Phortse, Everest 22/5/03 with Chinese

  15 May
    Phurba Tashi, again from ABC in north-south traverse

  21 May
    Lhakpa Nuru, again from ABC
    Son Dorje, again from ABC
    Nuru Gyalzen, 18/8/73, Phortse, Everest 27/5/04
    Pasang Kami, 26/7/79, Phortse, no 8000ers
    Nima Tenzing, 16/4/88, Khumjung, no 8000ers
    Tashi Namgyal, Tibetan, 4/6/84, Everest X1
    Lobchong, Tibetan, 27/10/84, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X2
    Dor Jee, Tibetan, Everest 11/5/06 with Brice's team

  22 May
    Nima Wangchu, 1/8/74, Phortse, no 8000ers
    Dorje Sonam Gyalzen, again from ABC
    Dawa Tenzi, 14/5/80, Khumjung, no 8000ers
    Tshering Tashi, 30/4/80, Khunde, no 8000ers
    Ang Chhiring, 1952, Phortse, no 8000ers
    Tenzing, Tibetan, 28/3/83, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X2
    Pemba, Tibetan 1/7/82, Everest 4/6/05 with Brice, Cho Oyu X1

  14 June
    Phurba Tashi, his third ascent with this team, again from ABC
    Don Dorje, his third ascent with this team, again from ABC
    Dorje Sonam Gyalzen, his third ascent with this team, again from ABC
    Lhakpa Nuru, his third ascent with this team, again from ABC
    Nuru Gyalzen, again from ABC


  David Tait's traverse of Everest

  Tait was a member of Russell Brice's Himex Everest expedition on the North Col route, but he came to be a sub-team consisting of himself and Phurbu Tashi Sherpa.

  Tait and Phurba Tashi decided on 11 May to go for the summit and left ABC on the 12th for C1 (7000m on the Col); on the 13th they climbed from C1 to C3 (7900m), skipping C2 (at 7500m) in "a hard day" of climbing; on the 14th to C4 (8400m).

  At 11:00 pm (NST) on the 14th, they left C4 for the top. The weather was not very cold (-10 degrees), very calm with almost no wind, and clear sky with stars shining. They reached the summit at 6:10-15 am on the 15th at the same time as 20 other summiters. They had had to wait in a queue at the First Step for about 20 minutes, then "went steaming past them" on the way to the Second Step. They spent ten or fifteen minutes on the top taking pictures while some Indians were holding aloft their banner, then started down the SE Ridge.

  They knew the route had not yet been fixed to the summit on the Nepalese side, but they did not realize the distances on this side; Phurba Tashi had summited Everest ten times, but always via the North Col route. They belayed each other with their 25m short rope down the Hillary Step, but at the bottom of the Step they found that they had to use the 100m rope Phurba Tashi had been carrying to fix their route from the bottom of the Step up to the South Summit. They resumed belaying each other and at one point didn't know exactly where they were as the clouds rolled in. They thought they were at the Balcony when they weren't there yet. From the actual Balcony the route was already fixed, and at about noon on the 15th they reached the South Col and had their first drink there.

  From the Col down, there was deep snow. They passed three C3's at three levels; at Kenton Cool's low C3, he gave them another drink. At 6:00 pm they got to C2 and went to sleep in a tent at Guy Cotter's camp. On the 16th they left C2 at 7:00 am and arrived at BC at noon time after having descended the Icefall, which was hot and at bit mushy at the bottom. Avalanches were coming down the slopes on both sides. An army helicopter picked them up to BC on the morning of the 17th and brought them to Kathmandu.

  Both Tait and Phurba Tashi used oxygen. They started using it in their ascent from C2's 7500m to and in C3, to C4 to 8835m, where their first bottles became empty. They discarded those bottles and replaced them with the second bottles each had been carrying, starting on the second bottles at 8840m on the north side and switching them off at 7300m on the south side's route down the West Face of Lhotse, switching off because the masks were uncomfortable.

  The original plan had been to do a double traverse -- from BC turn around and go back up the south side and descend the north side. Although Tait has no doubt that Phurba Tashi could have done that immediately, he himself would have had to take a good long rest before he could do the second traverse. He didn't have the time to spare, and didn't feel the need to do it. Besides his knees were sore from the long descent; he had trained for the ascent, but had not thought to train for the descent.

  "The traverse was great, fantastic, more than I could ever hope for." He had done it to raise funds for the charity he supports, the National Society for the Prevention of the Cruelty to Children, and he decided at 3:15 pm during his descent of the south side that what he had done was good enough for his purpose.

  He will have to wait in Kathmandu for his two barrels of gear and his passport to come from Tibet. On the 18th, Phurba Tashi goes by road to the border, where a vehicle will meet him bringing the barrels and passport and taking Phurba Tashi back to BC to resume climbing Everest with Brice's team.


expid: EVER07192
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Kenton Cool
sponsor: Cool Everest Expedition
countries: Egypt, S Africa
approach: Lukla
bcdate: 2007-04-12
smtdate: 2007-05-17
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2007-05-28
campsites: BC(12/04,5200m),C1(20/04,6000m),C2(25/04,6000m),C3(27/04,7000m),C4(16/05,7900m),Smt(17,24/05)
accidents: Cerebral edema by Chewang Dorje
achievment: 1st Egyptian
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  17 May summit team left C4 at 10:30 pm on 16 May. In perfect conditions Cool, Maud and Chewang Dorje arrived at top at 8 am. Samra and Lhakpa Wangchu at 9:30 am [9:49 am according to Samra]. On way down Chewang Dorje collapsed (about 10 am) and Cool thinks it was cerebral edema. Cool gave him Dexamethasone and Chewang Dorje recovered quickly. They arrived at C4 at 12:30 pm. Samra and Lhakpa Wangchu arrived at 3 pm. On 18 May Cool descended to BC; the rest of team to C2.

  On 21 May Cool left BC again for 2nd Summit push. Stephen, James, Lhakpa Thundu and Tapchen had left BC on 19 May. Cool caught up with James, Lhakpa Tundu at C2 on 21 May. They caught up with Stephens and Tapchen at C4 on 23 May. On summit push Stephens and Tapchen left C4 at 8 pm; Cool, James and Lhakpa Thundu left at 9 pm. Cool left James and Lhakpa Thundu and sped up as he was feeling unwell and wanted to get to summit as quickly as possible; he arrived at 3:50 am. James and Lhakpa Thundu summited at 8:30 am and Stephens and Tapchen at 9:30 am. Cool descended to C2, arrived at noon. Rest of summit team spent night at C4, arrived at about 2 pm. On 25 May they descended to C2 and 26 May to BC.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Wangchu, 20/10/86, Pangboche, Khumbu
    Chawang/Chewang Dorje, 17/4/81, Pangboche, Khumbu, Everest 19/5/06
    Lhakpa Thundu, 20/5/71, Pangboche, Khumbu, Everest X4
    Topchen Lama, aka Bhote, 28/8/79, Hatiya-3, Sankhuwasabha originally,
      now Somere near Pangboche; Everest 25/6/06 with Calder/Todd expedition

  Their second ascents this month: 
    Lhakpa Thundu with Saunders 17 May
    Topchen Lama with Todd's team 17 May


expid: EVER07191
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Henry Todd
sponsor: ICE 8000 Everest & Lhotse Expedition 2007
countries: Canada, France, New Zealand, USA
approach: Lukla
bcdate: 2007-04-12
smtdate: 2007-05-17
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2007-05-27
campsites: BC(12/04,5300m),C1(20/04,6000m),C2(21/04,6350m),C3(01/05,7050m),C4(16/05,8000m),Smt(17,24/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  17 May summit team left C4 at 10:30 pm on 16 May. It was very calm. Casserley dropped some hair on summit which fell straight to the ground. They spent 30 minutes on summit and descended to C4, arrived at 1:30 pm. Casserley descended to BC on 18 May. He left C4 at 8 am, had some tea at C2 at noon and arrived at BC at 6:30 pm. Rest of summit team descended to C2 on 18 May and to BC on 19 May.

  On 19 May Shekhdar, Allsop, Hickey moved to C2. Casserley rested at BC and moved to C2 on 21 May. He caught up with group there. They moved to C3 on 22 May and C4 on 23 May where they caught up with Davey who had left BC one day ahead of other members. Sherpas caught up with them at C4. On 23 May he "24 May summit team" left C4 at 9:30 pm. It was very windy (20 knots) but clear. They were the only team on summit that day together with Kenton Cool. They spent about 20 minutes on summit and descended to C4, arrived at noon. On 25 May they descended to C2 in very strong winds.

  Jen got to C3 on 22 May. He stayed night, but decided not to go to Lhotse due to bad conditions. He descended to C2 on 23 May.

  Clemenson reached C2 on 21 April and stayed the night. When "17 May summit team" left BC for summit push he went as far as Icefall and turned back to BC due to lack of motivation.

  Todd stayed at BC for duration of expedition.

  Sherpas: 
    Pasang Dawa, aka Pa Dawa, Pangboche, 18/1/77, Everest X7, Lhotse X1 ,Cho Oyu X4
    Topchen Lama, aka Bhote, originally from Hatiya-3, now from Shomere, 28/8/79
      Everest on 25/5/2006
    Ang Namgyal/Tshering Nyamgal, Pangboche, 14/6/84 
      Also summited with Saunders on 17/5/07
    Lhakpa Wangchu, Pangboche, 20/10/86, no expedition peaks 
      Also summited with Cool on 17/5/07
    Dorje Gyalzen, 16/7/82 (1/4/2039), Pangboche
      Also summited with Saunders on 17/5/07


expid: EVER07194
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Gabriel Filippi
sponsor: Finding Life Everest Expedition
approach: Lukla->Lobuje East
bcdate: 2007-04-11
smtdate: 2007-05-19
termdate: 2007-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 8750m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(11/04,5200m),C1(18/04,5960m),C2(23/04,6230m),C3(04/05,7200m),C4(18/05,8000m),xxx(19/05,8750m)
agency: Nomad Expeditions
routememo:
  High point team left C4 at 10:20 pm. Clear skies but very windy (about 40 knots) and very cold. They had to break trail and were very slow. They were climbing together with Claude and Yann Boisvenue from another expedition. They stopped at Balcony (8360m) and waited for a storm to abide for about 2 hours, then carried on at sunrise about 5:30 am. At 9 am they decided to turn back as they all were too exhausted and weather did not improve. Filippi and Lhakpa Nuru together with Boisvenues descended to C2, where they arrived at 5 pm. Saikaly and Phinjo spent night at C3. On 20 May everybody descended to BC.

  Dawa Sherpa reached C4 on 18 May but descended to C2 on 19 May due to cold (sore throat). He spent one night at C2 and descended to BC on 20 May.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Nuru, Yilajung, Namche-9, 25/9/72
    Dawa Tenzing, Thamo, 21/3/1986, Everest 21/5/06, Cho Oyu 2/10/06
    Phinjo Sherpa, Taksindu-3, Solu, 2/9/73


expid: EVER07165
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Wongchu Sherpa
sponsor: Nepal TV Lions Club Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Chhukung->Gorakshep->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-11
smtdate: 2007-05-16
smttime: 0915
termdate: 2007-05-19
campsites: BC(11/04,5300m),C1(20/04,6000m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(30/04,7100m),C4(15/05,8000m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  C1 above the Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Nepal TV Lions Club Expedition 2007

  Kami, Lhakpa Gelje, Sonam and Da Chamba ("Chhemba") Sherpa left C4 at 11 pm on 15 May for the summit. Lhakpa Gelje and Sonam reached summit at 9:15 am on 16 May; Kami and Da Chamba reached summit at 9:45 am. The team spent about 3 hours on the summit, then descended to South Col at 3 pm and slept there. Next day to C2 and the following day to BC. 

  Note: Kami Sherpa was also assisting/working for Johan Nilson of the Asian Trekking group.

  Leader Wangchu Sherpa stayed at BC throughout the expedition period and left BC on 19 May. The team while on the summit displayed flags and banners of 13 different sponsors of the expedition. Weather was very good.

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 24 May.

  Records: Kami Sherpa became the first television journalist from South Asia to summit the Everest. Kami had interview Super Sherpas member Lhakpa Gelu on the summit. This is also first time a journalist interviewed on the top of the world. The team members commonly released book titled "Seti Pani Kali Pani" authored by Pratik Dhakal (pen name of Khadananda Dhakal, Under Secretary, Mountaineering Div, MOCTA). Apa Sherpa released earlier (same day) another book written by the same author on the summit. This is also the first time that all the climbers of the team used sleeping bags, down jackets, down suits, down mittens, under garments: about seven items produced by Everest Hard Wear owned by Sonam Sherpa, climbing member. Sonam said that the test of the products were very good and beyond his expectation.

  Da Chhemba, (19-10-2024) 2/2/68, Gudel-5, Solukhumbu
    Summited Baruntse in 2000 with British, 
    Cho Oyu in 2005 with Japanese, 
    Everest in 2003 with British and in 2004 with Japanese.


expid: EVER07166
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Vladimir Zboja
sponsor: Czech & Slovak Everest Expedition
countries: Slovakia
approach: Helicopter to Pheriche (15 April), then standard approach
bcdate: 2007-04-19
smtdate: 2007-05-18
smttime: 0645
termdate: 2007-05-20
campsites: BC(19/04,5300m),C1(21/04,6100m),C2(23/04,6500m),C3(02/05,7150m),C4(17/05,7920m),Smt(18/05)
accidents: Svaricek suffered from stomach problem
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 above Khumbu Glacier
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Bem, Nima Nurbu Sherpa and Pemba Tenjin Sherpa left C4 at 10:30 pm on 17 May, reached summit at 6:45 am on 18 May, stayed on summit about 30 minutes, descended to C2 at 6 pm. Next day to BC. 

  Elias was at C2 on 14 May. He had to go with Dawa Sherpa down to BC on 17 because Dawa had severe toothache. Svaricek also was at C2 on 14 May, got stomach problem and went down to BC on 17. Zboja, Bem, Nima Nurbu and Pemba Tenjin were at C3 on 16 May. During the night of 16 there was snowfall. He was awake and clearing snow accumulated over their tent. In the morning Zboja decided to go down to C2 to coordinate with the two members. Elias and Svaricek with Bem who continued his climb to South Col. The team returned to Kathmandu on 24 May. Bem will leave on 27 and rest of the members on 3 June. 

  The Zboja team originally planned to go to north side of Everest. Accordingly Windhorse Trekking applied for permission but TMA refused permission saying that the mountain was full. Bem then contacted the Prague Foreign Ministry seeking help of the Chinese Embassy in Prague for permission and also the Czech Embassy in Beijing but to no avail. Then the team approached Monterosa which indeed got the permission as well as visas for the four-member Czech and Slovak team in one day. The team left Kathmandu for Tibet on 12 April, but the border authority did not allow them to enter into Tibet. Then they returned to Kathmandu and got permission for south side of Everest and took off to Pheriche in a helicopter. According to Zboja, the reason for TMA refusal was:

    (1) Bem had put an Tibetan flag in front of the Chinese Embassy in Prague,
    (2) Bem met with the Dalai Lama several times. 

  Bem's inclination to Buddhism and support for Tibetans caused all the trouble in the process of trying to go to north side of Everest.

  Sherpas:
    Nima Nurbu, 18/6/74, Thamiteng, Everets X5, Cho Oyu X2
    Pemba Tenzing/Tenjin, 2/2/76, Phurte, Everest 17/5/06


expid: EVER07164
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Marie-Nadinie Laborde
sponsor: Frenchwoman on Everest
approach: Lukla
bcdate: 2007-04-08
smtdate: 2007-05-16
termdate: 2007-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 8750m because Laborde was too slow
campsites: BC(08/04,5400m),C1(16/04,6000m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(14/05,7100m),C4(15/05,7950m),xxx(16/05,8750m)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  Laborde and Pasang Sherpa left C4 at 8:30 pm on 15 May. It was very windy but clear. The Benegas team was in front of them. The ascent was without problems. No waiting at the Hillary Step. When they got to South Summit, Pasang decided to turn back as he thought Laborde was too slow. They spent about one hour at 8750m and descended to C4, where they arrived at 8 am. They spent 1 night there and descended to C2 on 17 May; one day rest at C2 and descended to BC on 18 May.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Sherpa, Jiri-7, Dolakha, 11/8/1975, Everest X1


expid: EVER07167
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Herbert Wolf
sponsor: Austrian-German Everest Team
countries: Germany
approach: Lukla
bcdate: 2007-04-21
smtdate: 2007-05-21
smttime: 1124
termdate: 2007-05-25
campsites: BC(21/04,5300m),C1(29/04,6000m),C2(09/05,6400m),C3(10/05,7130m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Rai)
routememo:
  Team left C4 at 9:30 pm on 20 May. Weather was clear and calm. No queues on Hillary Step. They reached South Summit at 10 am and the main summit at 11:24 am. They spent 10 minutes on summit, then descended to C4, where they arrived at 4 pm. They spent the night and left C4 at 7:30 am and descended to BC, where they arrived at 7:45 pm.

  Expedition went well. No sickness, no accidents. However, Ziegelmeier was very slow.


expid: EVER07168
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Malaysia
leaders: Mohammad Fauzan Hassan
sponsor: Merdeka de Everest 2007
bcdate: 2007-04-15
smtdate: 2007-05-21
termdate: 2007-05-25
campsites: BC(15/04,5200m),C1(20/04,6000m),C2(21/04,6500m),C3(30/04,7200m),C4(20/05,8000m),Smt(21/05)
achievment: 1st Malaysian Woman
agency: Himalayan Treasure
routememo:
  Summit team left C4 at 10 pm on 6 May. Weather calm and clear. A bit of waiting time at the Hillary Step and Balcony. About 20 people on summit. They spent between 30 minutes and 1 hour on summit. All summiteers descended to C4, arriving between noon and 6:30 pm. Hassan was very tired and had some chest infection. Everybody else was well. On 22 May they spent a night at C2 and on 23 May to BC.

  Khalid Yunus reached C3 on 30 April and on 19 May on summit push. On 19 May he spent night at C3, but was feeling the altitude so decided to go down next day with Phunuru and Thile Sherpa. They spent 2 nights at C2. Yunus recovered quickly at C2.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Gyalzen, 8/6/74, Jubing-1, Kharikhola, Solu, no 8000ers
    Dendi, 18/11/85 (2042/8/3), Jubing-3, Bumburi, Solu
    Doma Chhiri, 18/11/1984, Jubing-9, Sikli, Solu, Everest X2
    Dorjee, 2026, Bung-9, Cheremy, Solu
    Funuru, 2038/10/12, Jubing-1, Kharikhola, Solu
    Lama Dawa, 18/2/75 (2031/11/6), Waku-4, Sibuje, Solu
    Nga Temba, 1955-1956, Jubing-9, Sikli, Solu, Everest X11, Cho Oyu X1
    Pasang Gelu, 28/11/63 (2020/8/7), Gudel-9, Kurima, Solu, Everest X2, Dhaula, 
      Kangch, Ama Dablam X2
    Pasang Nuru, 2019, Namche-5, Thami, Khumbu
    Ridorji, 2010, Jubing-1, Kupra, Solu


expid: EVER07169
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Bangladesh
leaders: Ebsanur Rahman
sponsor: Royal Bengal Everest Expedition 2007
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-21
smtdate: 2007-04-29
termdate: 2007-05-04
termnote: Abandoned at 5710m due to mostly physical inability, no real climbing done
campsites: BC(21/04,5334m),xxx(29/04,5710m)
agency: Climb High Himalaya
routememo:
  Rahman went up to 5710m on 29 April and gave up. The reason for abandoning climb are mostly his physical inability, and needing more practice with climbing he wrote in his email. 

  Rahman returned Kathmandu on 7 May and left same day.


expid: EVER07170
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Apa Sherpa
sponsor: Super Sherpas on Everest
countries: USA
bcdate: 2007-04-28
smtdate: 2007-05-16
smttime: 0844
termdate: 2007-05-20
campsites: BC(28/04),C2(03/05,6400m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(16/05)
agency: World Records Expeditions
routememo:
  Summiters left C4 at 10:30 pm 15 May and on top at 8:44 am by all except Pemba Rinzi (at 9:00 am) and on top 45 minutes. All to C3 for 3-4 hours to drink, etc; left C4 4:00 pm and down to C2 at 7:00 pm, "so tired." Oxygen used by all from C4 to top to C4. Went to top a little late because had to wait for good light for filming (video).

  Scott McIntosh stayed separately in C1 and C3 in tents provided by this team (Mingma Tshering with him); joined summit party in C4 on 15 May to top wth them and slept in C4 on 16 May; McIntosh started using oxygen sleeping in C3 to top to and in C4.

  Staci Nix stayed at BC and left early.

  Apa Sherpa & Lhakpa Gelu employed other Sherpas to climb with them. The hired summiters were:

    Ang Pasang Sherpa, 19/6/67, Thami Og, Everest X7, Lhotse X1
    Arita Sherpa, 1959/60, Thami Og, Apa's brother, Everest
    Mingma Tshering Sherpa, 25, Kharikhola, no 8000ers
      (citizenship certificate gives name as Ang Tshering, but is called 
       Mingma Tshering)
    Pasang Gyalzen/Geljen Sherpa, 21, Kharikhola, no 8000ers
    Pemba Rinzi Sherpa, 3/10/70, Kharikhola, Everest X1


expid: EVER07114
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Manuel Pizarro
sponsor: Everest 2007 'Learning Without Limits'
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-11
smtdate: 2007-05-16
smttime: 0915
termdate: 2007-05-19
campsites: BC(11/04,5200m),ABC(15/04,6400m),C1(26/04,7000m),C2(14/05,7900m),C3(15/05,8300m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Pizarro left BC at 10:15 pm (NST) on 15 May. He was on his own without a Sherpa. It was snowing, temperature was about -15 degrees C. At about 2 am wind picked up to about 25 knots. At 4:30 am light began to rise and sky was clear. About 6 people were waiting on 2nd Step. Pizarro saw dead Japanese climber on bottom of 2nd Step. Great views from Summit. About 15 people on summit. Pizarro spent two hours on summit. He descended to C3 where he spent the night. Next day he descended to ABC where he arrived at 8 pm. On his ascent Pizarro climbed to C3 with his Sherpa Fur Gyalzen on summit push. Fur Gyalzen did not want to get up. He told Pizarro that he did not want to go to summit. He had spoken to his wife on satellite phone and his wife told told him not to go up.

  When Pizarro and Gyalzen arrived at C3 on 15 May at 4 pm, there was no camp for them. Fur Gyalzen had told Pizarro that a camp would be in place but there wasn't. Czech climber Libor Kozak and his Sherpa took him into their tent. Libor did not look very well. He ate a cup of noodles and a cup of tea. He was lucid but weak and looked blue. Pizarro wanted to check his oxygen saturation but Libor refused. Pizarro had feeling that Libor did not want to know any more about his bad condition.

  When Pizarro got ready to go for summit at 9:30 pm he saw Libor struggling with his crampons. Libor then was still planning to go up. Pizarro was scared to go alone and was keen to climb with Libor. At 10:15 pm Libor started to move towards the summit. When Pizarro saw how slow he was, he took off without him [the next time Pizarro saw Libor he was dead at 8300m]. When he came back from summit at 4 pm the tent they had spent the night in was gone, so was Fur Gyalzen Sherpa and Libor (on his descent to C3 a huge storm started which lasted for about 20 minutes). Pizarro got into a free tent and spent night there. He found Libor's dead body the next morning. He was lying about 100m above 1st tent of C3, about 50m left of the fixed rope. Libor almost looked as if he was resting. Pizarro tried to wake him up, but quickly noticed that he was dead. Pizarro speculates he died of cerebral edema, due to Libor's behavior in tent the previous night. Libor was not wearing crampons. Pizarro tried to put Libor into better position, but no one would help him. Pizarro believes that Libor had died in this position as snow was undisturbed and becasue of the levitation of the body. He spent about 1 hour with Libor's dead body. He left C3 at about noon and got to ABC 8 pm.

  Sherpa:
    Fur Gyalzen, Kharikhola, 21/11/75, Baruntse 1997 [as Phurba?], 
      Ama Dablam 2000 [?]


expid: EVER07107
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: S Africa
leaders: Ronnie Muhl
sponsor: South African Expedition to Everest Northeast Ridge 2007
bcdate: 2007-04-12
smtdate: 2007-05-16
smttime: 0500
termdate: 2007-05-26
campsites: BC(12/04),ABC(19/04,6450m),C1(28/04,7050m),C2(14,24/05,7700m),C3(15,22/05,8300m),Smt(16,23/05)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  First summit party of Van der Velde and Ngima Nuru left C3 at 9:00 pm (NST) on 15 May and reached summit at 5:00 am on 16 May. They were the first summiters of the 16th. They went all the way down to ABC that day, and arrived at ABC at 6:00 pm.

  Second summit party consisted of Muhl with Lhakpa Nurbu and Patterson with sirdar Lhakpa Rangdu. They left C3 at 9:30 pm on the 22nd; Muhl and Lhakpa Nuru were on the summit at 6:00 am of the 23rd, and Patterson and Lhakpa Rangdu joined them 20 minutes later. Members descended to C2 and Sherpas to ABC.

  John Brand went just above the North Col [on 20 May] but was not well, had stomach problem that persisted. He left expedition on 23 May.

  Oxygen:

  By first summit party: Van der Velde from C1 all the way to the summit and down to bottom of North Col at about 6600m; Ngima Nuru used it from C3 to summit to C3. 

  By second summit party: same pattern - members from C1 to top to 6600m; Sherpas from C3 to top to C3.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa, 22/9/80, Thami, Everest 15/5 and 24/5/06
    Lhakpa Rangdu Sherpa, 18/11/67, Sotang, Solu, Cho Oyu X3, Everest X2 
    Ngima Nuru Sherpa, 6/11/81 (21/7/2038), Tesho, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X1

  It was Lhakpa Rangdu who helped to bring Kazakhstani climber Pivtsov (Zhumayev's teammate), descending from C2 to ABC and who put him on oxygen (Namgyal of Chessell's expedition helped also).


expid: EVER07115
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Anatoly Bondarev, Rubat Du Merac
sponsor: Calgary 2007 Everest Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-04
smtdate: 2007-05-15
termdate: 2007-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to lack of support (Sherpas) and overcrowding on route
campsites: BC(04/04,5200m),ABC(10/04,6400m),C1(18/04,7060m),xxx(15/05,7900m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Bondarev and Marc Rubat Du Merac left C1 at 6 am (NST) on 15 May to make a deposit at C3. They returned 7900m at 12 noon. There were too many people lined up at 7900m, they then descended to C1 at about 2 pm. It was very good weather. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 22 May because were very tired without Sherpa helpers. Bondarev will leave on 25 May and Marc Rubat Du Merac on 12 June.


expid: EVER07116
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Serge Dessureault
sponsor: Merrell Rona Expedition to Everest
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-03
smtdate: 2007-05-15
smttime: 0645
termdate: 2007-05-18
campsites: BC(03/04,5200m),ABC(08/04,6400m),C1(24/04,7000m),C2(13/05,7700m),C3(14/05,8300m),Smt(15/05)
agency: Loben Expeditions
routememo:
  Summit team left C3 at midnight on summit day. Weather was calm and clear, about -25 degrees. They stayed on top for 1 hour and descended [to C3] at 10 am. They then descended to C2 where Dessureault arrived at 5:45 pm. Beausejour, Pemba and Pasang arrived at 7 pm. Phura went to C1. On 16 May, they descended to ABC.

  Constantineau reached ABC on 8 April. He was feeling very sick and went down to BC to recover on 12 April. He did not recover there and left BC on 16 April to go back to Kathmandu.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Chhoti Sherpa, Yaphu village, Sankhuwasabha, 15/7/78, Everest 24/5/00
      Everest North 2003, Everest South 2000, Cho Oyu 2006
    Pasang Phutar Sherpa, Yaphu, Sankhuwasabha, 8/07/06, Cho Oyu X2
      Cho Oyu 1997 and 2002
    Phura Temba Sherpa, Thami, Khumbu, 20/1/70, Everest 4/6/05, 
      Everest North 2003, 2005, 2006 [?]


expid: EVER07118
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: William English
sponsor: International Everest Expedition
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-05
smtdate: 2007-04-28
termdate: 2007-05-10
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to bad weather, lack of time
campsites: BC(05/04,5200m),ABC(12/04,6400m),C1(28/04,7000m),xxx(29/04,7000m)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  English and two Sherpas ascended to C1 on 28 April. Weather started off nice, but storm hit C1 in afternoon. Team was climbing together with Indian army team. On 30 April Chhiring Dorje told English and Indian team to descend as bad weather was coming in. They left C1 at 10 am and reached BC at 4 pm (NST). Chhiring descended to ABC. English stayed at BC until 10 May and waited for weather to improve. He did not go back up again.

  Sherpas:
    Phurba Namgyal, Beding, 7/2/1986, Cho Oyu 24/5/2006, Ama Dablam 7/11/2006
      (Phurba summited Everest with Indian team led by Ishwar Singh Thapa on 15/5/06)
    Tshering/Chhiring Dorje, Beding, 25/10/1974, Cho Oyu X4, Everest X6,
      Manaslu X1 (Tshering Dorje summited with Indian team on 2/5/07 and 15/5/07)


expid: EVER07132
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Ludovic Challeat
sponsor: French on Everest
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-19
smtdate: 2007-05-16
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2007-05-21
campsites: BC(19/04,5200m),ABC(24/04,6400m),C1(27/04,7050m),C2(30/04,7700m),C3(03/05,8200m),Smt(16/05)
accidents: Bonhomme suffered from HAS (vomit & headache)
agency: Pemba Sherpa
routememo:
  Challeat and Pemba Sherpa left C3 at 11 pm NST on 15 May, reached summit at 7:30 am on 16 May. They stayed on summit 30 minutes, then descended to C2 at 5 pm. Next day to ABC in the morning of 16 May.  It was snowing till 5 am. After that weather became good. 

  Bonhomme went up to 7300m on 5 May and turned around to C1 due to bad weather conditions. At ABC he had vomit and headache. He was given oxygen at ABC and moved to CBC. 

  The team returned Kathmandu on 22 May and will leave on 29 May. Challeat planning to come for Makalu next spring.

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Sherpa, 4/9/71, Taksindu-5, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X2
      (with Challeat to summit last year on Cho Oyu 1/10/06)


expid: EVER07134
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: David Pritt
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Everest Expedition 2007
countries: Ireland
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-20
smtdate: 2007-05-16
smttime: 0623
termdate: 2007-05-21
campsites: BC(20/04,5200m),ABC(24/04,6400m),C1(01/05,7000m),C2(14/05,7700m),C3(15/05,8300m),Smt(16/05)
accidents: Snowblindness by Mckeever
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  McKeever and Lhakpa left C3 at 9:30 pm on 15 May with Beadle's team. The day started off snowing but cleared at daylight. After summiting, they descended to C3, where they arrived at 3:00 pm. When he got to C3 he could not open his eyes. He said he had taken off his glasses on summit for 5 minutes. On 17 May he descended to C1. Robin Beadle helped him down as he could not see. It took him two days until he could open his eyes again. 

  Pritt reached 7200m on 14 May. He felt altitude sickness and turned back to ABC and waited there for McKeever.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Tshering Sherpa, 17/07/76, Pangboche, no 8000ers


expid: EVER07137
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Cyril Cointre, Clement Latour
sponsor: Les Toits de Monde a Velo
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-07
smtdate: 2007-05-19
termdate: 2007-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 8600m due to exhaustion of Latour
campsites: BC(07/04,5200m),ABC(16/04,6400m),C1(27/04,7050m),C2(17/05,7600m),C3(18/05,8300m),xxx(19/05,8600m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 14 at 5800m
  C1 at North Col
  High point at 8600m between First Step and Second Step.

  On 18 May Cointre, Latour and Pasang Tenji left C3 at 9:45 pm (NST), reached 8600m at 4:30 am of 19 May. At that point Latour was so exhausted, the team had to call off the climb. Then they descended to below First Step and tried to paraglide from the ridge below the First Step. They waited for three hours but could not take off due to inappropriate wind conditions. They left the glider on the ridge and descended to C2 at about 2:30 pm. They returned to Kathmandu on 27 May and may be leaving on 30th.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Tenji Sherpa, 16/1/71, Upper Walung, Makalu-9
      Summited Everest in 2005 with 7-Summit Club (Abramov) 30/5/05


expid: EVER07138
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Norway
leaders: Alexsander Gamme
sponsor: Hamar Till Top Everest Expedition 2007
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-12
smtdate: 2007-05-16
smttime: 0530
termdate: 2007-05-22
campsites: BC(12/04,5200m),ABC(18/04,6400m),C1(22/04,7100m),C2(14/05,7700m),C3(15/05,8300m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Tseringma Treks
routememo:
  Int BC at CBC/IC on 17th at 5700m.

  Gamme, Voldmo, Nawang Tenji and Kilu Pemba Sherpa left C3 at 9:50 on 15th, reached to summit at 5:30 am NST on 16th all together. Stayed on summit for about 40 minutes, then descended to C3 at 11 am. Then they went down to C1 at 4 pm. Ahead of Gamme's team there were about 20 people on the summit. Night of 15 May was snowing, but in the morning it became clear and warm, very good weather. 

  Miss Buerke remained at ABC as BC Manager. She left BC on 4 May and Nepal may be after 2/3 days. 

  Miss Loekken went up to C1 site (N Col) on 19 April and returned to ABC same day. That was her plan to visit C1. She left ABC on 22 April. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 23 May and will leave on 1 June.

  Sherpas:
    Kilu Pemba, 16/5/80, Beding, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2, Manaslu X1
    Nawang Tenji, 12/5/67, Beding, Everest X1


expid: EVER07140
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Wilfried Studer
sponsor: Wolfurt Everest Expedition 2007
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-27
smtdate: 2007-05-17
termdate: 2007-05-28
termnote: Abandoned at 8700m due to lack of strength and storm
campsites: BC(27/04,5200m),ABC(02/05,6400m),C1(15/05,7500m),C2(16/05,7800m),xxx(17/05,8700m)
agency: High Country Trekking
routememo:
  On 17 May arrived 1 am at 8300m (no camps above C2). Left 8300m at 7:30 am, reached 8700m about 1 pm; started snowfall, so turned around to ABC at 11 pm. 

  Studers and Sherpa tried again on 24 May but could not go beyond North Col. The team left its tent at 7500m. Morning weather was very good. 

  Klocker was only to North Col. 

  Preisch went up to North Col on 5 May and spent the night, did not feel good then went down to ABC. No HAS. 

  It is 11th time on Everest by the Studers. Studer said that they are not coming again for Everest. The team returned Kathmandu on 29 May and will try to leave as soon as possible.

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Gyalzen, 29/11/73, Pangkoma, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X2


expid: EVER07147
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Hungary
leaders: David Klein
sponsor: Ahico Everest Expedition 2007
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-07
smtdate: 2007-05-21
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2007-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 8600m due to lack of time (too late in the day to summit)
campsites: BC(07/04,5200m),ABC(14/04,6400m),C1(28/04,7000m),C2(06/05,7800m),C3(20/05,8300m),xxx(21/05,8600m)
agency: World Records Expeditions
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 13 April at 5900m.

  Klein and Varkonyi left C3 approximately at 3 am on 21 May, reached at 8600m at 9 am (NST). They decided to turn around to ABC [too late to summit that day]. Weather was good and little windy. About 12 people summited on that day. 

  Seregi went up to the North Col on 28 April and left then ABC. 

  Klein and Varkonyi planning to come for Kangchenjunga in 2008 Spring. They returned to Kathmandu on 24 May and will leave on 27 May.


expid: EVER07149
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Jae-Soo
sponsor: Flying Jump Gimhae Everest Expedition 2007
countries: USA
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-07
smtdate: 2007-05-16
smttime: 0615
termdate: 2007-05-24
agency: Explore Himalaya
campsites:
  BC(07/04,5200m),ABC(14/04,6300m),C1(16/04,7010m,),C2(27/04,7700m),C3(15/05,8300m),Smt(16-17,19-20/05)

routememo:
  Goo, Kim Gil-Woo, Kim Jae-Soo, Kim Ju-Jin, Lee Sang-Ho, Shin Myun-Dai, Yi Sung-In, Yun Chi-Won, Tarke, Jumik Bhote, and Nima Tenji left C3 at 10:40 pm (CST) on 15 May. Miss Go, Kim Gil-Woo, Kim Jae-Soo, Lee Sang-Ho, Yi Sung-In, Yun Chi-Won, Tarke, Jumik Bhote, and Nima Tenji reached the summit at 6:15 (NST) on 16 May. They stayed on summit one hour and descended to C3 at 11:30 am then to C1 at 6 pm. Kim Ju-Jin turned back to C3 from 8500m it was too much for him to continue. Shin Myun-Dai tried from C3 on 15 May but he had to turn back due to strong wind from 8500m. He slept at C2 and tried again on 18 May but turn back from C3 to North Col. He was very tired. The members of a big Indian team and some other people also summited on that day.

  Jeang, Miss Song and Sange Sherpa left at midnight of 16 May and reached summit at 9:10 am on 17 May. They stayed on summit one hour and 30 minutes. The team descended to C3 where Jeang reached at 1:30 pm. Then he went down and reached ABC at 7 pm; Miss Song and Sange Sherpa reached C3 at 3:40 pm and to C1 at 9 pm.

  Youn Sam-Jun and Ngima Dendi left C3 at 00:30 on 19 May. They reached summit at 10:30 am, stayed on summit 40 minutes, then descended to C3 at 2 pm then to C1 at 7 pm. About 20 people summited on that day.

  Park and Kim Seng-Sang left C3 at 11 pm on 19 May. Kim Seng-Sang had to turn back to C2 from 8800m due to diarrhea. Park reached summit at 9 am on 20 May. He stayed on summit about an hour descended to C3 at about 11:30 am and to ABC at 9 pm.

  Cheung and Kim Jong-Dae reached C3 on 15 May at about 10 pm. It was late so they did not try to summit.

  Miss Eum only up to North Col (she did not want to climb). 

  Kim Kwan-Jae, Lee Hyeong-Geun and Yoon went up to C3 on 18 May slept there. Kim Kwan-Jae and Yoon went back to ABC on 19 and Lee Hyeong-Geun to North Col on 20th. They were exhausted. 

  Song Ki-Bong only up to North Col (no climbing).

  Oxygen: all climbers used oxygen from C2 to summit C2 except Park and Yun who used from C3 to summit to C3 and Yi from 7500m to summit and to 7000m. 

  Record: Miss Song may be oldest Korean woman to summit Everest.

  Sherpas:
    Chhewang Palden (Palten), 6/2/74, Sotang-6
    Jumik Bhote, 06/06/78, Hungung, Hatiya-1, Everest X1
    Ngima Dendi, 25/5/74, Bakachola-9, Khotang, 1st 8000er
    Nima Tenji, 1980, Kharikhola-9, Everest 4/6/05
    Pasang Gelu Sherpa, 4/11/65, Sotang-6
    Sange, 20/9/73, Sotang-6, 1st 8000er
    Tarke, 1967, Kurima, Lokhim-4, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X5

    Sardar Pasang Gombu, 21/3/62 (8/12/2018), Saframa, Lokhim-9, Solu, Cho Oyu X4


expid: EVER07150
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Alex Abramov
sponsor: Seven Summits Club Everest Expedition
countries: Azerbaijan, Germany, UK, USA
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-08
smtdate: 2007-05-19
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2007-05-23
campsites: BC(08/04,5200m),ABC(16/04,6400m),C1(24/04,7000m),C2(17/05,7700m),C3(18/05,8300m),Smt(19-20/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  19 May summit team left C3 at midnight. Weather clear, but lots of fresh snow and had to break trail. They spent 1 hour on summit. Shields, Myers and Shakirov descent to C1, arrived at 6 pm. Shield was feeling sick. She descended together to ABC with Mingma. Left C1 at 10 pm, arrived in ABC at midnight. All other summiteers went straight to ABC, arrived at 3 pm.

  20 May summit team left C3 at midnight. Perfect conditions, no wind, spent 1 hour on summit. Descended to C3, had 1 hour break and then to ABC. Arrived at 5 pm, apart from Taylor and Ivanov who were slow and arrived at 10 pm on 21 May. Team  rested at ABC and descended to BC on 22 May. 

  Tigranyan left BC to return to Kathmandu on 10 April. He never got beyond BC. He had one sleepless night at BC and left. 

  Zaitsev reached C1 on 24 April. Spent night there and descended to ABC. On 2nd acclimatization trip he did not reach C1 as he had problems with his liver and his eyesight. He descended to BC and left BC for Kathmandu on 2 May.

  On 19 May Kofanov was involved in helping Italian Marco Epis of Italian Expedition (Tiraboschi). He found Epis at C3, who was uncoordinated and wanted to move down without harness and crampons. He gave Epis Dexamethasome and helped him to C2. Kofanov did that without oxygen.

  Sherpas:
    Jangbu Sherpa, 26/8/85, Makalu-Balakharka, Everest 5/5/06
    Lakcha Sange Sherpa, 20/6/64, Makalu-Nurbugaon, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1
    Mingma Dorchi/Dorje Sherpa, 30/8/80, Makalu-Tashigaon, Everest 21/5/06
    Mingma Gelu Sherpa, 5/2/79, Makalu-Balakharka, Everest X4
    Nima Dorje Sherpa, 31/8/84, Khumbu-Thami
    Nima Ongdi Sherpa, 19/2/79, Makalu-Balakharka, Everest 15/5/06
    Nurbu Chhiring Sherpa, 29/7/80, Makalu-Tashigaon, Everest 21/5/06
    Pasang Sherpa, 20/2/83, Makalu-Balakharka, Everest X2
    Pemba Nuru Sherpa, 28/3/80, Everest 25/5/06
    Pemba Rinjin Sherpa, 1965, Makalu-Balakharka
    Pemba Tenjing Sherpa, 23/8/76, Khumbu-Thamo, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1
    Rinjen Sherpa, 3/2/73, Makalu-Balakharka, Everest X3


expid: EVER07151
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Lt. Col. Ishwar Singh Thapa
sponsor: Indian Army Mt. Everest Expedition
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-07
smtdate: 2007-05-02
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2007-05-24
campsites: BC(07/04,5200m),ABC(15/04,6400m),C1(28/04,7000m),C3(14/05,8300m),Smt(02,15-16/05)
achievment: Chhiring Dorje summited 3 times
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  Tshering Dorje and Phurba Chhoter left ABC at 1:30 pm on 1 May. They reached C3 at 1 pm and had a rest there. They started again at 2 am and reached the top at 7 am (NST). They used oxygen from 7500m to summit to 7500m. However, they stayed on summit for 2 hours without oxygen. They put a 12 kg heavy statue of Buddha and an 8 party flag on summit. Statue is in a box of about 1 meter. They left summit at 9 am and descended to ABC. Arrived at 1 pm. Weather was very good, not cold.

  15 May summit team left C3 at 10:30 pm on 14 May. Route busy. Summited at 6:00 am, spent half an hour on summit. Descended to C1. Arrived at 4 pm. BC on 16 May. Tshering Dorje descended only to C3 as he was going back up again on same day.

  16 May summit team left C3 at 10:30 pm on 15 May. It was snowing. When they reached 2nd Step at 1:30 am they were thinking about retreating due to snowfall. But weather report from Delhi said it would be clear later, and at 3 am it cleared. Summited at 6:00 am, stayed 30 minutes and descended to ABC, arrived at 4 pm. On 17 May they descended to BC. 

  Pathare reached C1 on 27 April together with Thapa. Thapa had decided to stay at North Col to coordinate expedition and not go to summit. However, this would have reduced number of members to 13, which is an unlucky number, so Thapa decided to keep the youngest member back.

  The team did not have a camp at the normal C2 site.

  Indian Army Sherpas:

  15 May Summit:
    Chhiring Pinzo, Langtang-3, Mundu, 17/04/85 (5/1/2042)
    Dawa Gyalzen, Beding, 10/5/86, Cho Oyu in 24/5/2006 (Indians)
    Damai Chhiri, Sikli, 19/6/75, Everest South X2, North X2, Kangch X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Nawang Pasang, Beding, Everest South X1, Everest North X1
    Phurba Namgyal, Beding
    Tashi Sherpa, Beding, 18/4/79, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1, Ama Dablam
    Tshering/Chhiring Dorje, Beding, 25/10/74

  16 May summit
    Jangbu Sherpa, Khotang-2, Solu, 18/6/65, Everest X2
    Pasang Gyalzen, Makalu village, 30/7/81, Everest X1 21/5/06
    Pasang Karma Sherpa, Paiya, Jubing-7, Solu, 25/12/72
    Phurba Chhoter, 20/8/71, Thami, Khumbu, his second ascent (2 May summit also)
    Serap Sherpa, Taktar, Beni, Solu, 8/8/72, Everest X2
    Tshering Dorje again from C3


expid: EVER07143
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Gian Mario Trimeri
sponsor: Italian on Everest
bcdate: 2007-04-21
smtdate: 2007-05-18
smttime: 1024
termdate: 2007-05-24
campsites: BC(21/04,5200m),ABC(25/04,6300m),C1(01/05,7000m),C2(16/05,7500m),C3(17/05,8050m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Team left C3 at 10 pm on 17 May. Weather was not that good it was snowing. Sun came out at dawn. Good views from summit. They spent 30 minutes on summit. Trimeri ran out of oxygen on summit and felt very tired. They descended to C3, where they arrived at 5 pm. He could not sleep and found it difficult without oxygen. Next day Dawa and Trimeri descended to C2. Mingma was helping Marco from other expedition.

  Trimeri felt exhausted when he got to C2. He had take about 9 hours from C3 to C2. At C2 he found a bottle of oxygen the next morning which belonged to Russell Brice. He felt a lot better using the oxygen and descended to ABC. 

  Sherpas:
    Mingma Tshering Sherpa, Namche, Khumbu, 18/4/75, Everest X2
    Dawa Sherpa, aka "Dhaulagiri Dawa", 7/12/59, Walung, Makalu-9, 
      Cho Oyu X4, Dhaula X3


expid: EVER07145
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Francesca Raffaelli
sponsor: Everest Italians
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-20
smtdate: 2007-05-22
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2007-05-26
campsites: BC(20/04,5200m),ABC(24/04,6400m),C1(29/04,7000m),C2(16/05,7500m),C3(21/05,8300m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  On summit push team went from ABC to lowest point of C2 at 7500m on 19 May. On 20 May they descended to 7900m. On 21 May they left C3 at midnight. Weather was clear. At 9 am wind picked up. It was very cold. They summited at 10 am and spent 15 minutes on summit, then descended to 7900m, where they arrived at 5 pm. Next day to ABC.


expid: EVER07146
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Ivan Tiraboschi
sponsor: Spirito Libero to Everest
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-20
smtdate: 2007-05-17
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2007-05-26
campsites: BC(20/04,5200m),ABC(24/04,6400m),C1(14/05,7000m),C2(15/05,7900m),C3(16/05,8300m),Smt(17/05)
accidents: Maurizio disappeared at about 8800m; Epis edema
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Summit team left C3 at midnight. They bumped into Nives Meroi and Romano at 2nd Step; they were on their way down. Nadia Tiraboschi and Borlini were quicker than Maurizio so they pushed on and made it to the summit at 1 pm. They saw Maurizio between 2nd and 3rd Step on the way down. Maurizio summited at around 2:30 pm. The last time Nadia Tiraboschi saw Maurizio was at about 8800m. She looked up on their descent and saw Maurizio coming down. They descended to C3 where they spent 3 nights to look for Maurizio. They could not find him so they descended to ABC on 20 May.

  Santoro reached 7900m on 14 May. He stayed one night and descended to ABC on 15 May. He did feel slight altitude sickness. He was also upset to see the body of the Japanese climber at 7300m.

  Ivan Tiraboschi reached 6900m on 15 May. He turned back and descended to ABC the same day as he was feeling exhausted. Santoro and Tiraboschi left BC on 19 May.

  On 17 May Epis got to just before 2nd Step. He had lost one of his gloves just after the 1st step when he was trying to adjust his crampon. He had one spare glove in his rucksack but it was for the wrong hand. He tried to carry on but it was impossible with one glove and he was feeling increasingly unwell. Weather was also getting worse, so at 3 pm he turned back. He descended to C3 and slept in the first tent he saw (it was a deposit tent). He did not eat nor drink or sleep with oxygen. On the next morning he went to his tent. He was feeling very weak. When he started his descent to C2 at about 7:00 am, he tried to do so without oxygen and crampons. A Sherpa and deputy Leader from Abramov's team helped him and gave him Dexamethasone as Epis was very uncoordinated. He was helped down all the way to ABC. They left at 8:30 am and reached ABC at about 7:30 pm. Epis left BC on 21 May.


expid: EVER07152
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Peter Guggemos
sponsor: Guggemos Everest
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-22
smtdate: 2007-05-18
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2007-05-22
campsites: BC(22/04,5200m),ABC(26/04,6400m),C1(30/04,7000m),C2(06/05,7500m),C3(17/05,8300m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Whole team left C3 at 10:30 pm on 17 May. Weather was clear, but cold. Zuerner started off walking but had problem with oxygen mask. He started having hallucinations. He returned to C3 to lie down. He left C3 at 10 am and descended to C2 as weather had closed in. Guggemos and Nima Da Gyalzen spent about 30 minutes on summit with about 20 other people. They descended to C2 where they arrived at 4 pm. When they descended it started snowing heavily. On 19 May they descended together with Zuerner to ABC.

  Zuerner got to about 8330m as he turned back pretty quickly.


expid: EVER07135
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Adrian Crane
sponsor: Hi-Tech Everest Expedition 2007
countries: Australia
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-16
smtdate: 2007-05-20
termdate: 2007-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 8150m due to unfolding tragedies of other climbers
campsites: BC(16/04,5200m),ABC(22/04,6400m),C1(10/05,7000m),xxx(20/05,8150m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 21 April at 5800m
  C1 at North Col.

  On 20th May Adrian Crane left C1 at about 3:30 am/NST reached deposit point at 7500m at 8:30 am and picked up a fresh bottle of oxygen. He found that two bottles of oxygen bottles were missing from the place. Soon after, Christopher (younger son) at ABC called on the radio to say that all the reports of Pierangelo Maurizio were in fact Marco Epis and that Pierangelo was missing and presumed dead while descending from the summit. There was no need for Crane to look for Pierangelo in C2. Crane said that on 19 May while resting at C1 after returning from the deposit point with Jonathan (elder son) in a strong snow storm and in white-out, about mid-afternoon, three women, one Italian and two French, stopped by their tent and asked to use their radio. The women were trying to contact ABC to ask about an Italian man and possible to get some Sherpas to come up to try and assist him in descending the mountain. Since Crane's radios were a different frequency to theirs, Christopher (who was still in ABC) was called to go up and down ABC checking if anyone had heard from Pierangelo Maurizio. Crane said that they received conflicting reports about Pierangelo and another Italian "Marco" who was slowly descending in a bad way from the summit. Pierangelo and Marco were just two of several climbers that Crane saw or heard of who were suffering greatly from altitude and were attempting to escape from the mountain with their health or their life. Crane climbed through C2, met two of his collegues from the Dutch expedition, and climbed to 8150m where he arrived at 12:45 pm. He saw a small flat area and he unhooked from the fixed rope and sat and look at the view. He was comfortable, physically well and no altitude problem. While sitting there, he reflected on the sad stories that he had seen and heard as he climbed to that point. He counted his blessings as a father, husband and friend. Then he decided that he would indeed honor his personal pledge to touch 8000m and descend. He took a lot of pictures, gave encouragement to Dutch friends who went on to summit and began his descent between 1:15 pm and 1:30 pm, picked up cache at 7500m, and arrived at North Col between 4-4:15 pm where Jonathan was waiting from him. Both father and son left North Col at 5 pm arrived at ABC around 8 pm. Crane said that it had been a great experience to reach 8000m; it had been a sad experience to see the toll that the mountain could take; it had been a great experience to return to Jonathan in North Col and Christopher in ABC.

  Castle climbed up to 6700m on 25 April. He left CBC on 1 May due to the news that his wife had some medical problem. He may have left Kathmandu on 12 May. 

  Jonathan climbed up to 7500m on 18 May to put the load there and returned together to C1.

  Christopher did not intend to climb, but did make one trip to the N Col. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 27 May and will leave on 1 June.


expid: EVER07155
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Ingrid Alder
sponsor: Swiss on Everest
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-06
smtdate: 2007-05-07
termdate: 2007-05-09
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to inflamed right hand
campsites: BC(06/04,5200m),ABC(12/04,6300m),C1(24/04,7070m),xxx(07/05,7600m)
accidents: Alder's right-hand inflammation
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Parajuli)
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 11 April at 5400m
  C1 at North Col.

  Alder left C1 at 9 am (NST), reached at 7600m at 3 pm, turned back to C1 at 5 pm. Alder returned to Kathmandu on 11 May. She is trying to leave as soon as possible.


expid: EVER07157
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: John Ross
sponsor: Foindle Everest Expedition
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-04
smtdate: 2007-05-16
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2007-05-18
campsites: BC(04/04,5200m),ABC(10/04,6450m),C1(18/04,7000m),C2(03/05,7900m),C3(15/05,8300m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Unique Adventure International
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 9 April 5750m
  C1 at North Col.

  Ross, Moti Lal Gurung and Dawa Tenjen Sherpa left C3 at 10:30 pm NST on 15 May. At 1st Step they had to wait for an hour. Moti turned back from that point; he was slow and may be feeling cold. When Ross reached just below the pyramid, his oxygen ran out. He felt good, no problem for breathing. But he borrowed one oxygen cylinder from one of the Sherpas probably of Indian team. Ross and Dawa reached summit at 7:30 am on 16 May. They stayed at summit for 30 minutes. Then, descended to C3 at about 11 am. Moti was there waiting for Ross and Dawa. Ross and Moti went down to C2 at about 4 pm, slept there. Dawa went down to C1. Next day Ross and Moti descended to ABC. There were 30-40 people on summit. Weather was good. Ross turned to Kathmandu on 21 May and will leave on 28.

  Sherpas: 
    Moti Lal Gurung (30-7-1950), Makalu-2
      summited: Dhaul I 1982, Makalu 1987, Manaslu 1988, Everest 1993 spring & 
        autumn, Cho Oyu 2006
    Dawa Tenjen Sherpa (21-12-1974), Makalu-5
      summited: Ama Dablam 2005 and 1998, Everest 25/5/06


expid: EVER07156
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Ken Noguchi
sponsor: Noguchi Everest Expedition
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-10
smtdate: 2007-05-08
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2007-05-21
campsites: BC(10/04,5200m),ABC(19/04,6400m),C1(26/04,7050m),C2(02/05,7600m),C3(14/05,8200m),Smt(08,15,17/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  15 May summit team left C3 at 9 pm on 14 May. Weather was good and clear about 30 people on summt. Hiraga, Noguchi, Krishna and Ang Kaji descended to C3 where they arrived at 5:30 pm. They were involved helping lower down the body of Japanese Shinichi Ishii who died near summit. Pemba Dorje and Kailash descended to C2; Palden to C1. On 16 May everyone, apart from Pemba Dorje who climbed back up, descended to ABC. 

  17 May summit team left C3 on 16 May at 10 pm. Weather was clear. Not many people maybe 10 on summit. They descended to ABC, arrived at 9:30 pm. On way down they helped a few people, who were exhausted and needed oxygen (1 Korean, 1 Filipino, 1 Austrian and 1 Italian). On 18 May they descended to BC. 

  Pemba Dorje from Rolwaling (speed record holder) summited 3 times. The first time he summited on 8 May with his brother Phurba Tenzing. Pemba did not use oxygen that day. Phurba used oxygen from C3 to summit to C3. They summited at 10:30 am and descended to ABC same day.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Kazi, 12/7/78, Sisuwakhola, Makalu VDC, Manaslu 16/5/06
    Kailash Tamang, 13/2/82, Kanku, Solu
    Krishna Bahadur Tamang, Kanku-5, Solu, 25/9/68, Cho Oyu X3,
      Everest X2 (Ever South 1999, Ever North 2002)
    Kazi, 23/1/72, Tapting, Solu
    Ongje, 22/8/83, Gaurishankar-2, Cho Oyu X2, Manaslu X1
    Palden Nima, 29/8/78, Makalu-9
    Miss Pasang Lhamu, 10/6/84, Lukla
    Pemba Dorje, 29/4/77, Beding, Lhotse X1, Manaslu X1, Everest X3 (speed climber)
    Phurba Tenji, 15/1/89 (2/10/2045), Beding, brother of Pemba Dorje, 1st 8000er


expid: EVER07141
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Julio Bird
sponsor: Everest 2007
countries: UK
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-07
smtdate: 2007-05-15
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2007-05-22
campsites: BC(07/04,5182m),ABC(14/04,6400m),C1(23/04,7010m),C2(13/05,7600m),C3(14/05,8000m),Smt(15/05)
agency: World Records Expeditions
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 13 April at 19,000 ft
  C3 at lower than usual campsite.

  On 14 May, Bird, Delehanty, Rehfeld, Severis and Lobsang Sherpa left top camp 8000m at 11 pm NST. Severis and Lobsang summited at 10:30 am on 15 May. They stayed 10 minutes on summit. On the summit Severis saw a glass case [containing a Bhudda statue] and lots of prayer flags. Severis and Lobsang descended to top camp at 2 pm. A Japanese team was ahead of them and behind were an Irish team. The summit day weather was beautiful. 

  Bird and Delehanty turned around from base of the Second Step at 7 am and back to top camp where they reached at 10:30 am because their oxygen supply decreased. Rehfeld turned around from the base of First Ftep due to intestinal pain and back to top camp at 8 am. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 23 May and leaves on different dates.

  Sherpa:
    Lobsang Sherpa, 27/6/85, Jubing, 1st 8000er


expid: EVER07163
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Paul Giorgio
sponsor: Americans to Everest
approach: Lukla->Namche->Gorakshep->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-10
smtdate: 2007-05-17
smttime: 0615
termdate: 2007-05-19
campsites: BC(10/04,5364m),C1(14/04,6400m),C2(15/04,6700m),C3(09/05,7193m),C4(10/05,7925m),Smt(17/05)
accidents: Giorgio's three toes frostbitten in each foot (he said not serious)
agency: Mountain Madness
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 above Khumbu Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Giorgio, Lhakpa Tsheri, Phur Tenji and Nima Dorje Tamang left C4 at 7 pm on 16 May, reached summit at 6:15 am on 17 May, stayed on summit 30 minutes, descended to C4 at 9 am, then to C2 at 10 pm. Next day to BC. Weather was excellent. Ahead of the Giorgio team was a Korean solo and some Sherpas behind them; there were at least 20-30 climbers. 

  Plouffe went up to South Col on 10 May. He was too slow and had to give up. He used oxygen from C3 to South Col to C3. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 23 May and will leave on 25 May. 

  Summit Sherpas: 
    Lhakpa Tsheri/Tshering, 25/11/72 (10/8/2029), Chaurikharka-2
    Phur/Fur Tenji, 1/5/68 (19/1/2025), Bupsa, Jubing-5, Everest X2 (claims more)
    Nima Dorje Tamang, 8/1/80 (24/9/2036), Chitre, Bakachola-9, Khotang, 
      Everest 30/5/05

  Other Sherpas:
    Ang Tshering, 22/4/80, Chaurikharka-3 
    Kami Tsheri Lama, 15-2-1968 
    Pasang Dawa, 18/11/78 (3-8-2035), Chaurikharka-2
    Lhakpa Nuru, 24/1/78 
    Ang Sarki, 18/5/61 (5-2-2018)

  Route opening Sherpas all went up to 8500m on 10 May and turned back to South Col on 11 May due to bad weather (Ang Tshering, Kami Tsheri Lama, and Pasang Dawa); Lhakpa Nuru turned back at 8400m due to cold feet and hands. Ang Sarki was only to South Col.


expid: EVER07101
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge (up); SE Ridge-S Col (down)
route2: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Philippines
leaders: Arturo Valdez
sponsor: First Filipino All Women Everest Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-13
smtdate: 2007-05-16
smttime: 0610
termdate: 2007-05-17
campsites: BC(13/04,5243m),ABC(19/04,6526m),C1(24/04,7010m),C2(14/05,7772m),C3(15/05,8300m),Smt(16/05)
achievment: 1st women expedition to traverse from north to south, 1st Filipino to summit Everest
agency: International Adventures Treks/Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  First Filipino All Women Everest Expedition 2007

  Mrs Belarmino, Mrs Dayondon, Miss Wenceslao, Pemba Chhoti, Lhakpa Gyalzen, Pasang Nuru and Ang Phurba Sherpa left C3 at 9 pm (NST) on 15 May. Wenceslao with Pemba Chhoti reached summit at 6:10 am on 16 May; Dayondon with Lhakpa Gyalzen at 6:20 am; Belarmino, Pasang Nuru and Ang Phurba reached at 9 am. Wenceslao, Pemba Chhoti, Dayondon and Lakpa Gyaljen stayed on summit almost an hour. There were many people on summit, may be 20-30. Then the team started descending to South Col where they reached at about 11 am. South Col Sherpa Pema Nuru was there to meet them. Belarmino, Pasang Nuru and Ang Phurba stayed on summit about 30 minutes. Ang Phurba descended to north side and Belarmino and Pasang Nuru to South Col where they reached at 4 pm. All the team and Sherpas slept at South Col. On 17 May the team descended to C2 and to BC on 18 May at 4:30 pm. 

  Leader Valdez and Dr. Esguerra left CBC on 17 and arrived Kodari on 18 May and took helicopter to Khumbu BC where they reached at 1 pm. The flight was delayed for long time due to poor visibility. The expedition left Everest BC on 19th and returned to Kathmandu on 22 May. The expedition will leave Kathmandu on 29 May.

  Oxygene: 
    Members used oxygen from C1 (north side) to summit to C2 (south side)
    Sherpas used C3 (north side) to summit to C4 (South Col) 
    Ang Phurba used oxygen from C3 to summit to C3 (north side)

  Records: 

  First Filipino women to summit Everest, first women summiteers from Asean. The Filipinos are the first women to traverse Everest from north side to south side.

  Accidents: 

  Member Wenceslao suffered from moderate AMS (PE) on 20 April in ABC. She was put in Gamov bag. She was given a high dose of medicine to stop her vomiting and also given little oxygen. She recovered on 22 April. On 23 she got same symptoms again (vomiting); she could not take medicine due to vomit then she was sent to CBC. She recovered after few days.

  Fu Dorji climbed up to C3 on 15 May; he suffered from snow blindness and went down to ABC. 

  Traverse fee: 

  On 18 April, CTMA informed expedition leader Valdez that the expedition has to pay additional fee of $3000 each. Valdez said he went to see CTMA authority seeking clarification about the new fee. He was told by CTMA Vice Secretary General that the new fee was decided in Beijing lately and it is applicable for each climber who wants to traverse.

  North side team: Belarmino, Dayondon, Esguerra, Valdez and Wenceslao.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Gyalzen, 20-7-74, Paiya, Jubing 
      Everest X6 (was with Filipino Everest expedition from south side in 2006),
      climbed Baruntse in 2005 Oct
    Pemba Chhoti, 27-1-81, Rolwaling, Gaurishankar-1
      Everest X4, Ama Dablam X4 and Kongde in 2002 with Japanese expedition
    Ang Phurba, 26-08-67, Chaplung, Chaurikharka-3
      Summited Everest north side in 2006 with Italian expedition, Cho Oyu X4, 
      Bhrikuti in 2000, Putha Hiunchuli in 1996 and 2000
    Phu Dorje, 7/12/75, Phortse, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Pasang Nuru, (17/5/74)
      Summited with Filipino Everest Expedition from south side in 2006

  Mr Fortes and his team arrived in Kathmandu April 20, 2007 and departed Kathmandu for Lukla on  April 26, 2007 and trekked to arriving at Everest BC on May 5.

  Non-summiting members:
    Esguerra and Valdez - ABC (north side) only
    Emata, Fortes and Jamili - BC (south side) only


  Email from Arturo Valdez - 12 July 2007 

  We paid to CTMA US$3000 as additional traverse fee per climber/member. This on top of the first US$11,500 per climber/member traverse fee the CTMA charged us: plus US$17,750 per climber/member climbing fee charged us by Thamserku. The Sherpas were not charged traverse fees, however.

  The north side support members were me, Pastour Emata, Doc Ted Esguerra, Vince Rodgiguez and Sha Faminialgao.

  South side BC support team: Leo Oracion, Pee Wenceslao, Dr. Jodell Coates, Nurse Ralph Pilapil and Larry Honoredez. Emata, John fortes (co-expedition leader-joined later, Jamili and Pema Nuru Sherpa from Paiya, Jubing-7.

  Mr Fortes and his team arrived in Kathmandu April 20, 2007 and departed Kathmandu for Lukla on April 26, 2007 and trekked to arriving at EBC on May 5.

  Pemba Nuru went up to C4 South Col on May 15th, waited for and climbed down with 3 Filipinas and 3 Sherpas to C2 on May 17th, then arrived at EvBC around 3 pm of May 18.


expid: EVER07159
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Wang Yong-Feng
sponsor: Tibet Gods Mountain Chomolungma Expedition (Chinese Amatuers Exped)
bcdate: 2007-04-14
smtdate: 2007-05-21
smttime: 0345
agency: None
campsites:
  BC(14/04,5100m),IC(20/04,5800m),ABC(27/04,6500m),C1(01/05,7028m),C2A(06/05,7500m),C2B(19/05,7900m),C4(20/05,8300m),Smt(21,24/05)

routememo:
  Tibet Gods Mountain Chomolungma Expedition - Spring 2007

  According to Tshering Palden Bhote, who runs Himalayan Guides Trekking, this expedition was financed by one of China's wealthiest women, Mrs Wang Qui-Yang. She also supported the Olympic Torch expedition, but this was a separate team. Wong Yong-Feng was the leader of both teams.

  This team had a total of about 25 members and support staff, and they were joined by one man from the Olympic torch expedition, Sun Bin, after the Olympic team had left the mountain. 

  According to Ang Phurba, of Great Escapes Trekking, which sent Tshering Palden and another Sherpa to this team (six other Sherpas came from Rolwaling Excursions), Mrs Wang was a previous client of Wang Yong-Feng, and she summited Cho Oyu on his expedition in autumn 2006. Tshering Palden said all the Chinese members of the Tibet Gods team summited Cho Oyu in 2006 with Wang Yong-Feng.

  The first summit team left C3 at 10:00 pm (CST) on 20 May and reached the summit at 6:00 am (3:45 NST) on the 21st. They descended to ABC at 7:00 pm that day.

  The second summit team left C3 at 11:30 pm (CST) on 23 May and were on the summit at 6:00 am (3:45 NST) on the 24th. Mrs Wang, Fan, Tsering Dendu, Tashi Phuntsok and Tshering Palden Bhote descended to C1 at 2:00 pm, while all other summiters went down to ABC at 5:00 pm.

  Oxygen: Mrs Wang used it from C1 to summit to ABC; all other Chinese members from 7500m to summit to C1; Tibetans and Bhote in C2, in C3 to top to C3.

  Summiters:

  Tshering Palden Bhote said there were a total of 12 summiters on 21 May and 10 on 24 May. The names he could provide were:

  21 May (Group A Chinese summiters)
    Anan [Nan Shi-Zhen]
    Li Xiang-Ping
    Liu Fu-Yong, October 1960, company employee member of 2003 spring Chinese 
      Everest expedition
    Fan Wen-Jun, on Everest spring 2005 Chinese expedition

  21 May (Group A Tibetan summiters)
    Dorjee/Big Dorjee, from Nyalam
    Ngawang/Awang Tashi, 1983, from Tashi Zom, Everest 14/5/06
    Jhampa, from Nyalam?
    Norbu, from Nyalam?, 1st 8000er
    Thumba/Dompa, 1/10/86, from Shigatse, Cho Oyu X3, Everest X1
    Wangbe/Wang Dui, 1/3/86, Cho Oyu 1/10/06
    Wangyal/Wang Jia, 10/5/57
    Pubu Ciren

  24 May (Group B Chinese summiters)
    Xu Jiang-Lei (Sports Ministry official)
    Mrs. Wang Qui-Yang, 39 years old
    Sun Bin,  January 1978, China Mountaineering Assoc. staff member in 2003, 
      member of Chinese Everest expedition in spring 2003
    Wang Yong-Feng

  24 May (Group B Tibetan summiters)
    Chhilok/Ci Luo (33, Tashi Dzong) 
    Tashi Phuntsok, 1/8/80, Shigatse, Cho Oyu X3, Everest X4
    Tshering Dendu, Tingri, 1st 8000er [??]
    Deqing Ouzhu
    Awang Zhandui

  24 May (Group B Nepalese summiter)
    Tshering Palden Bhote, 20/2/78, Hungdung, Sankhuwasabha, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2

  Campsites:

  As given by Tshering Palden Bhote:

    BC(06/04),ABC(09/04,6400m),C1(21/04,7100m),C2(30/04,7800m),C3(20/05,8300m),
     Smt(21,24/05)

    Did Tibetans/Sherpas arrive early to establish campsites ahead of climbing team?

  As given by Chinese team's web site:

    BC(14/04,5100m),IC(20/04,5800m),ABC(27/04,6500m),C1(01/05,7028m), 
      C2A(06/05,7500m),C2B(19/05,7900m),C3(20/05,8300m),Smt(21,24/05)

    Group A departed BC on 24 May 2007


  Summary from Chinese team's web site:

  On May 21 and 24, 2007 Everest Amateur Mountaineering Team members, a total of alpine guides and collaboraters achieved 22 successful Everest top, no injuries, all staff secure. 

  Following is the list of summiters [from Chinese web site]: 

  May 21: Liu Fu-Yong, Nan Shi-Zhen (A-Nan), Fan Wen-Jun, Li Xiang-Ping, Wangjia (second ascent), Ngawang Tashi (second ascent), Thumpa (second ascent), small Dorje, small Wangdui, small Pubu Tsering, small Norbu, Jhampa.

  May 24: Wang Qui-Yang, Xu Jiang-lei, Wang Yong-Feng, Ci Luo (second ascent), Sun Bin, Ngawang Dhandul (fourth ascent), Dechen Ngodup (second ascent), Tashi Phuntsok (fifth ascent), small Tsering Dhondup, Tsering Palden Bhote (fourth ascent).


expid: EVER07160
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Li Zhi-Xin
sponsor: CCTV Olympic Torch Trial Relay Team
bcdate: 2007-03-23
smtdate: 2007-05-09
smttime: 0600
campsites: BC(23,25/03,6400m),ABC(31/03,7100m),C2(30/04,7800m),C3(08/05,8300m),Smt(09/05)
agency: None
routememo:
  Summit party left C3 at midnight (CST) and on top 6:0O am 9 May and all down to ABC same day. They were 1 Chinese and 7 Tibetans in torch relay team and 8 Tibetans in the CCTV film team.

  Note: Wang Yong-Feng and Sun Bin summited on 24 May 2007 with the Tibet Gods (Chinese Amateurs) team. The Tibet Gods team's financial backer, Mrs. Wang Qui-Yang, was a former expedition client of Wang Yong-Feng.


  From www.mt8848.com web site:

  Today, 8:15 (CST), selected CCTV reported torch relay torch relay team group and the Holy Mountain Adventure eight staff successful summited Everest.

  Today, the success of the top staff of Holy Mountain Adventure: Ngawang Norbu, Wangdui (large), Tashi Tsering (large), Pubu Dhondup (small), Ngawang Tsering: (CCTV reported mountain photography) 

  Norbu Dhendup, Tashi Tsering (small), Pubu Dhondup (large): (Torch relay team) 

  Holy Mountain Adventure Group to report them to express their heartfelt congratulations!


  From Eberhard Jurgalski (28 Apr 2008):

  8 Tibetan and 1 Han Chinese addiitional summiters for May 9, 2007:

    Chimi (Small), Dachung, Gyalha, Kai Zhong (Khetsun), Lhakpa, Padma Trinley,
    Phurbu (Puba), Sonam Dhondup, and Jing Yang (Han Chinese)

  List from email correspondence with Tibetan Mountaineering School official.


expid: EVER07158
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Shi Hai-Feng
sponsor: 2007 Mt. Chomolangma Expedition (Xinjiang K2 Expedition Co.)
countries: Mongolia
bcdate: 2007-03-28
smtdate: 2007-05-16
campsites: BC(28/03),ABC(02/04,6500m),C1(10/04,7000m),C2(14/05,7700m),C3(15/05,8300m),Smt(16/05)
accidents: Chinese woman (Li Xiao-Li) cerebral edema 10 Apr at C1 and left expedition about 12 Apr
agency: None
routememo:
  Report from Pasang Dawa Sherpa - 3 June 2007

  Summit party left C3 at 10:00 pm (NST 15) May and first on top was Pasang Dawa with leader, last to summit was Dendi Sherpa who went up alone (and Pasang Dawa is not sure he actually summited). All down to ABC on 16 May. 

  At BC as advisor was veteran Tibetan climber Akebu (Akbulnut).

  Sherpa summiters
    Dendi Sherpa, 20/8/70, Bhitakharka, Solu, no 8000ers
    Kancha Nuru, 6/9/63, Khumjung, Cho Oyu X2
    Lhakpa Tshering, 24/6/75, Khumjung, Annapurna X1, Everest X3
    Nima Grimen, 1982, Solu, no 8000ers
    Pasang Dawa, 16/6/80, Khumjung, no 8000ers
    Pemba Gyalzen, 21/6/73 (2030/3/7), Khumjung, Everest 24/5/06 with Luis Benitez
    Phurba Cheten/Tchheten, 8/6/84, Khumjung, no 8000ers

  Summit times from Chinese web sites:
    Yang Chun-feng, 6:10 CST (3:55 NST)
    Zhang Jing-Chuan, 7:10 CST (4:55 NST)
    Ren Zi-Xiang, 8:03 CST (5:48 NST)
    An Shao-Hua, 8:03 CST (5:48 NST)
    Yuan Wei, 10:50 CST (8:35 NST)


expid: EVER07113
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Ivan Vian
sponsor: Italians on Everest
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-21
smtdate: 2007-05-18
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2007-05-24
campsites: BC(21/04,5200m),ABC(25/04,6900m),C1(01/05,7000m),C2(16/05,7500m),C3(17/05,8000m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Valentini left C3 at 9 pm on 17 May. Weather started off good. A bit of snow later but then again clear. When he got to summit there were about 10 people. He did not have problems without oxygen. He spent about 20 minutes on summit, then descended to C1 same day, where he arrived at midnight. He actually wanted to stay night at C2 but two Americans were sleeping in his tent. On 19 May he descended to BC.

  Vian reached 7500m on 16 May. He descended to North Col the same day and stayed the night there. He did not feel well and abandoned climb.


expid: EVER07123
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Pascal Jouanny
sponsor: Jomolangma 2007 Expedition
countries: Switzerland
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-10
smtdate: 2007-05-18
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2007-05-24
campsites: BC(10/04,5170m),ABC(20/04,6450m),C1(28/04,7040m),C2(16/05,7700m),C3(17/05,8200m),Smt(18-19/05)
agency: Himalayan Windhorse Adventure
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 15 at 5800m
  C1 at North Col.

  Jomolangma 2007 Expedition (French & Swiss)

  First group: Battu, Jouanny, Martine, Wolter, Zuberer, Dawa Sherpa, Man Bahadur Tamang (also know as Gopal) and Pasang Sherpa left top camp (8200m) at midnight of 17 May. The team members reached summit between 8 am to 9 am (NST) along with three Nepali climbers on 18 May. Wolter was the first and Martine was the last one to reach the summit. Zuberer climbed without oxygen. The summiteers stayed on summit 30 minutes and descended to top camp between 11 am to 2 pm. Weather was very good, clear and no wind. The team was the first one to reach summit from north side on that day. They met some people coming up from south side.

  Second group: Charrier, Mrs Charrier, Dufresne, Ferragu, Danuru and Mingmar Tshering Sherpa left top camp at 11 pm on 18 May. Charrier reached summit at 8:15 am on 19 May and Dufresne at 8:45 am along with Danuru. They stayed on summit about 30 minutes and descended to top camp at 12:15 pm. Ahead of them were 5-6 people from north side and 2 people from south side. Very good weather but little windy at the beginning in the night. Mrs Charrier and Ferragu had to turn back from 8600m with Mingmar Tshering Sherpa. Ferragu just did not like to climb further. There was not any other particular reason. Mrs. Charrier accompanied Ferragu to top camp. Kanchha Nurbu Sherpa climbed up to C2.

  Oxygen used:  All summiters used from C2 to summit and to C2 except Zuberer who climbed without oxygen. Mrs. Charrier and Ferragu from C2 to 8600m back to C2. Sherpas used from top camp to summit and back to C3. 

  The expedition team returned to Kathmandu on 25 May and will leave on 28 May.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Dawa Sherpa, 1970, Tamakhani, Solu, Everest X4
    Dawa Nurbu/Danuru Sherpa, 22/11/76, Kharikhola, Everest X6
    Man Bahadur Tamang (Gopal), 1959, Jaidu, Salleri-5, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X1
    Pasang, 18/5/76, Thamakhani-7, Solu, Everest X1


  Everest: Summit Alexia Zuberer respiratory assistance
  Google Translation from French website (www.sportweek.fr)

  The Alexia Zuberer Swiss mountaineer reached the summit of Everest (8848m) for the second time. It has still not been able to do without oxygen, as she hoped.

  Zuberer Alexia, who had already conquered Everest (8848m) in 2003, has once again reached the summit, Friday May 18. It has unfortunately not been able to do without oxygen, his original draft.

  "I expect the team to be returned to Complete Base Camp Advanced to announce the good news," said the Swiss climber. This is an experience "happy". At 9, we have 7 members at the top. In To me, my attempt without oxygen was increased to 8400m. After this was very, very hard to endure the cold, but I had planned a Sherpa with a bottle of oxygen, have a history of angel guard at my side, so I took the bottle and finished at the top. The same day I was with Pascal Jouanny, Yves Martin, Philippe Battu and Pierre-Olivier Wolter. It was a beautiful day and a good mountain time."

  The first members of the group have set foot on the roof of the world, between 8 am and 9 am in the morning (local time), in perfect conditions, with winds exceptionally low (around 10 km/h) and temperature very smooth for such an altitude (-23C).

  A complete success by the success, the next day, two other members of the team, and Denis Charrier and Olivier Dufresne. Sylvie Ferragu and Isabelle Charrier-Rebuffet have themselves had to give up 8600m.

  Alexia is currently not become the third woman in the world to achieve the feat of climbing Everest without oxygen, after the New Zelandaise Lydia Bradey, in 1988, and the Englishwoman Alison Hargreaves in 1995.


expid: EVER07128
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
route2: N Col-NE Ridge (variation)
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Marc Nowak
sponsor: Monaco Everest Expedition
countries: Austria
bcdate: 2007-04-15
smtdate: 2007-05-19
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2007-05-25
campsites: BC(15/04),ABC(24/04,6400m),C1(27/04,7050m),C2(05/05,7700m),C3(18/05,8300m),Smt(19-20/05)
agency: Himalayan Travel Bureau
routememo:
  The expedition divided into two summit parties. In the first one were Guerin-Marthe, Novak, Urban, Nima Tenzing, Mingma Gyalze, and Ngima. They left C3 at 11:00 pm (NST) on 18 May for the top. Nowak turned back at 8500m at about 5:00 am because one foot was freezing and he was tired; he descended to C1. His Sherpa, Nima Tenzing, went ahead of him and got to ABC that day.

  Urban reached the summit at 8:00 am on the 19th; his Sherpa, Ngima, was not in good health and was very slow; at 8700m, Urban took his skis from Ngima and went to the top by himself (Ngima summited after him, according to sirdar Nawang Dorje and Ngima himself). Urban saw it was impossible to ski from the summit, so he then "walked" down to the top of the Great Couloir, put on his skis and tried to make a ski descent from there. He skied three or four turns (50 meters down), then stopped because of exposed rocks and avalanching. He climbed up to Ngima on the normal route and down this route; Ngima stopped in C3 while Urban continued descending the same day to ABC, skiing down from C2 to C1.

  Guerin-Marthe summited at about 10:30 am on the 19th and descended to C3 at 5:30 pm, moving slowly because he was very tired. He was accompanied to the top by Mingma Gyalje.

  In the second summit party were Bataillou, Lugrin, Rodriguez, Nima Gyalzen and Dawa Gyalje. Rodriguez got to only 7800m on the 19th, had trouble with his oxygen mask and went down to ABC the same day. Lugrin reached C3 but went no higher and descended from there to ABC with Bataillou on the 20th.

  Bataillou, Nima Gyalzen and Dawa Gyalje (who was Lugrin's Sherpa) left C3 for the top at 9:40 pm on the 19th, summited at 4:40 am on the 20th and descended to ABC at 6:00 pm that day. Bataillou said "the weather was so nice, the snow was so nice, I was feeling good so I go fast." He was the first person to reach the summit on the 20th (others came up from the south side about ten minutes later) and he waited at the top for about an hour for the sun to rise.

  Bubendorfer was not a skiing climber; he originally wanted to climb the North Face via the Japanese and Hornbein Couloirs, but there was too much snow there. His next idea was to climb a new line directly from ABC to somewhat above C1, going up an unclimbed couloir and not touching the North Col, and then join the normal route. He made his attempt with Nima Nuru on 14 May, but they turned back at just 6700m because of avalanching.

  Sirdar Nawang Dorje stayed at ABC for most of the climb, but he went once to C2 with Lugrin.

  Oxygen: Members used it in C2 to their high points and down to C2 or C1. Sherpas from C2 to high points to C3.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Gyalje, 14/3/79 (1/12/2035), Beding, Everest X2
    Mingma Gyalje, 14/4/86 (1/1/2043), Beding, 1st 8000er
    Nawang Dorje (sirdar), 27/4/65, Beding, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X3
    Ngima Sherpa, 23/5/74 (10/2/2031), Khanding, Gorakhani-4, Solu, Everest 22/5/05
    Nima Tenzing/Tenji, 24/8/80, Beding, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2, Manaslu X1, 
      K2 in 2005
    Nima Gyalzen, 18/5/76 (5/5/2033), Beding, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X1, Manaslu X1
    Nima Nuru, 35-36 years old, Chaurikharka, no 8000ers


expid: EVER07154
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Conrad Anker
sponsor: Altitude Everest Expedition 2007
countries: New Zealand, UK
bcdate: 2007-05-07
smtdate: 2007-06-14
smttime: 0955
termdate: 2007-06-19
achievment: Ascent of Second Step without ladder
agency: Mountain Experience
campsites:
  BC(07/05,5141m),ABC(18/05,6376m),C1(25/05,7024m),C2(03/06,7511m),C3(12/06,7800m),C4(13/06,5250m),Smt(14/06)

routememo:
  Conrad Anker - 22 June 2007

  The point of this expedition was to discover whether the Second Step can be surmounted without using its ladder. Before the summiters reached the Step, the ladder and fixed ropes were removed by the expedition's Sherpas [and Tibetans].

  The summit team of Anker, Houlding, Moffatt, Thaw, Mingma Dorje, Nima, Mingma Tshering, Jangbu and Karsang Namgyal left C4 at 3:00 am NST and were on the summit from 9:55 to 10:45 am on 14 June. Snow conditions were good: "everything was completely filled in" said Anker.

  Anker and Houlding scaled the Second Step to its top at 8600m in 20 minutes. "It is more difficult with the ladder than without it," Anker said, because the best area to climb is the rock normally behind the ladders. Its difficulty is between 5.9 and 5.10 (US rating). They used two No. 4 cams and one No. 3 cam here; they did not use bottled oxygen while climbing the Step because of its weight and because a mask obstructs one's view of where to place one's feet.

  They ascended different lines on the Step: Houlding, the rock expert, moved to the left and up the "wide crack" to its exit and then up the rest of the Step; most of the line he took did not cross the area behind the ladders. But Anker climbed to the  right of the "crack", and traversed across the Step in the area which is normally behind the ladders, then up the rest of the Step.

  Anker and Houlding descended from summit to ABC at 7:00 or 7:30 pm. Anker said he didn't mind being very tired from the day's climb because "I'm so elated to have finished it successfully."

  Anker and Houlding (as Mallory and Irvine) wore 1924-type clothing to be filmed in them at BC, ABC, C1 and C2, but did not climb in them.

  Russell Brice's large expedition came to Everest a month earlier than this team. Brice's people fixed all the ropes to the top (which Anker's team -- like all other expeditions were using except at the Second Step), set up all the camps, which Anker's group could use, and had everything in place for them. Five of Brice's Sherpas helped remove the ladders and ropes at the Second Step (and then summited), and two of his deputy leaders, Staples and Woodward, were also involved in making Anker's effort a success by filling in for Anker's film-makers who could not tolerate the high altitudes, and they summited with this expedition.
   
  Anker does not believe Mallory or Irvine got to the top. There were no fixed ropes in place for them, their clothes were too thin for the extreme cold at the highest altitudes, and their gear was not so good as today's gear. "Its incredible they got to the Yellow Band" (8100m Anker's altitude, 8250m to 8453m, according to Brice) where Irvine's ice axe was found in 1933.

  Non-summiting members
    Chin  reached 7000m, left expedition on 3 June because of his mother's serious 
      illness.
    Sauls reached 7500m, but persistent serious cough made him stop climbing.

  Oxygen: Summit party members: Houlding, Moffatt, and Thaw from 7900m to top to around C3, Anker from 8400m to top to C3 -- but Anker and Houlding did not use it while climbing the Second Step (see the reasons above), nor from "Mark's rock" at 8752m to summit in memory of Mallory and Irvine. Sherpas used it from 7900m to top to 7900m. [Also for sleeping]

  Anker's Sherpa summiters:
    Jangbu, 22/2/81, Kharikhola
    Karsang Namgyal/Namgel, 24/8/71, Thami, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X7
    Mingma Tshering, 26/9/82 (10/6/2039), Beding, no 8000ers
    Mingmar Dorje, 17/7/79, Tapting-1, Everest 17/5/04
    Nima Sherpa, 30/9/75, Tapting-1, no 8000ers

  Brice's Sherpas, who helped at Second Step and then summited with this expedition after having already summited with Brice's members, are included in the report of Brice's expedition.
    Phurba Tashi
    Son Dorje
    Dorje Sonam Gyalzen
    Lhakpa Nuru
    Nuru Gyalzen


expid: EVER07171
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Park Sang-Soo
sponsor: For Hope 2007 Korea Expressway Corporation Everest Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Gorakshep->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-09
smtdate: 2007-05-16
smttime: 0820
termdate: 2007-05-22
othersmts: Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-071-05)
campsites: BC(09/04,5400m),C1(12/04,5800m),C2(18/04,6300m),C3(02/05,7000m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal
primid: LHOT07105
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu glacier
  C1 above icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Kim Hong-Bin, Kim Mi-Gon, Youn Jung-Hyun, Sanu Sherpa left South Col at 11 pm on 15 May for summit. Ming Tenzi left South Col earlier around 8 pm and joined the route-opening Sherpa teams. Kim Mi-Gon reached summit at 8:20 am on 16 May, Kim Hong-Bin at 10:30 am with Sanu and Youn Jung-Hyun at 11:40 am. Kim Mi-Gon waited for fellow climber on the summit. Youn Jung-Hyun stayed on summit about 15 minutes and all descended together till below the Hillary Step then Kim Mi-Gon went down alone to C2 where he reached at 6:30 pm; next day to BC. Kim Hong-Bin, Youn Jung-Hyun and the Sherpas reached South Col at about 5 pm and they stayed there. Next day they descended to C2 and following day to BC.

  On their first attempt Kim Chang-Ho and Kim Mi-Gon left South Col on 14 May at midnight reached Balcony at about 5 am on 15 May, but they had to turn around to South Col due to strong wind. Kim Chang-Ho did not attempt again due to tiredness and descended to C2 on 16 May. Kim Joo-Hyeng was at South Col on 15 May, but to exhaustion did not attempt for summit and descended to C1 on 16 May. 

  Leader Park Sang-Soo remained at BC throughout the expedition. Support members Hwang, Kim Seok-Won, Lee Chae-Sung, Lee Pyong-Soo, Park Chong-Suk and Youn Jong-Churl finished their works at BC and left on 18 April. They arrived Kathmandu on 22 and left for Korea on 25 April. Out of five Sherpas Mingma and Sanu got to the summit and Dorje, Dorchi, Wangchuk went up to South Col.

  Leader Park Sang-Soo and Kim Mi-Gon returned to Kathmandu on 22 May and rest of the members on 25 and will leave on 29 May.

  Sherpas:
    Dorchi Sherpa, 1/12/79 (15/8/2036), Walung, Makalu-9
    Dorje Sherpa, 22/6/70 (8/3/2027), Tapting-9, Solu
    Mingma Tenzi, 28/10/84 (22/7/2041), Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha
    Sanu Sherpa, 30/4/75 (17/1/2032), Walung, Makalu-9, Cho Oyu 8/5/06
    Wangchuk


expid: EVER07177
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Nima Dorchi
sponsor: First Nepali Labor Everest Expedition 2007
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2007-05-13
smtdate: 2007-05-23
smttime: 0845
termdate: 2007-05-26
campsites: BC(13/05,5700m),C2(15/05,6300m),C3(18/05,7000m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
accidents: At C2 vomit, no appetite (used oxygen, became Ok)
achievment: 1st Labor expedition
agency: Green Lotus Trekking
routememo:
  He does not know about altitude of camps. He used C2 tent that belongs to Xtreme Everest expedition at C3 and C4. He carried his own tent. He took an ILO Flag to summit. 

  First Nepali Labour Everest Expedition 2007

  Nima Dorchi left C4 at 9 pm on 22 May for summit. His left mitten was blown away by wind while trying to change oxygen cylinder at Balcony. After a while, his left hand started getting cold. He started rubbing his hand with glove on the fixed rope holding it strongly and that helped him to keep his hand warm preventing frostbite. Nima Dorchi reached summit at 8:45 am on 23 May. He was the last one to reach summit on that day. Nima Dorchi asked Pasang Sherpa of Xtreme Everest Expedition to take his summit pictures. He displayed flag of Small Hotel and Restaurant Worker's Organization of Nepal (SHRWON) and ILO flag on the summit. Nima Dorchi stayed on summit less than 10 minutes and descended. At about 11:30 am he reached Balcony (about 8400m). He was exhausted and sat down there and slept. Dr. Mike Grocott, leader of Xtreme Everest Expedition, said that one of his Sherpas spotted Nima Dorchi sitting in snow, motionless and could not speak. He was badly sick and needed immediately medical help. Grocott's Sherpa carried rucksack of Nima Dorchi and Grocott himself with help of rope started dragging him to South Col. It was very difficult. Nima Dorchi said that his throat was completely dry and could not speak and also difficulty in breathing. Once Grocott people started giving him warm drinks Nima Dorchi started feeling good and slept in South Col. Next day Nima Dorchi went down to C2 by himself, stayed there one night. Then went to BC and and went to Gorak Shep to call Kathmandu. He had talk with Bishnu Bahadur Thapa, Senior Vice President of Small Hotel and Restaurant Worker's Organization of Nepal (SHRWON), about his climb and came to know that Ministry has not issued his climbing permit until that day. Nima Dorchi left BC on 26 May and stayed in Namche waiting for the Ministry to issue the permit.

  SHRWON applied to the Ministry requesting for permission for Nima Dorchi (he is executive central member of SHRWON) to climb Everest representing Laborers of Nepal and also of whole world. The Organization also requested Ministry to waive the royalty for the permission and application was submitted through Green Lotus Trekking along with necessary documents on 17 April 2007. Since the process in the Ministry was taking time and climbing time was approaching Nima Dorchi left Kathmandu on 12 June after he was informed that his climbing permit has been issued.

  The SHRWON members including Nima Dorchi met ILO Country Director Mr. Li in his office in Lalitpur to have ILO flag to take with Nima Dorchi to summit of Everest and also to request for financial support for the expedition. Mr. Li told them that he would try to get financial support from Geneva but not for the estimated sum of US$20000.


expid: EVER07188
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Troy Aupperle
sponsor: Independent on Everest
approach: Lukla->Namche->Gorakshep->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-07
smtdate: 2007-05-15
termdate: 2007-05-19
termnote: Abandoned at 8400m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(07/04,5400m),C1(14/04,5900m),C2(22/04,6400m),C3(14/05,7300m),C4(15/05,8400m),xxx(15/05,8400m)
agency: Mountain Madness
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 at above the Khumbu Icefall.
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 at South Col
  High point at Balcony.

  Aupperle and Lama Babu left South Col at 9 pm on 15 May, reached 8400m (Balcony) about 2 am of 16 May. Started snowfall and strong wind, so Aupperle decided to turn around and arrived South Col at about 6 am. Descended to C2 where they reached around 5 pm. Next day to BC. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 23 May. Aupperle left Kathmandu on 24 May. He stayed at Yak and Yeti Hotel.

  Sherpa:
    Lam Babu/Lama Babu, 23/9/68, Cheremy, Bung-9, Solu, Everest X3


expid: EVER07139
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Juan Antonio Huisa
sponsor: Expedicion Andalucia Everest 2007
bcdate: 2007-04-21
smtdate: 2007-04-27
termdate: 2007-05-11
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to member's illness (pulmonary edema)
campsites: BC(21/04,5300m),IC(25/04,5600m),ABC(26/04,6400m),xxx(27/04,6900m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Rai)
routememo:
  Huisa and Pedro Lopez stayed at ABC for four nights. Huisa was not feeling well at ABC so they decided to rest there until he got better. On 1st May Huisa felt better and the two climbers started of towards C1. However Huisa started to feel bad again, so they returned to ABC where they went to see Dr. Monica Piris (doctor for Himex), who diagnosed Huisa with slight pulmonary edema.

  She told Huisa to rest and descend to BC as soon as possible. On 3rd May the two climbers descended to BC where they rested for three days. They left BC on 6th May and went to Shegar where they were going to rest, hoping that Huisa would recover there. They stayed another day in Shegar and returned to BC on 8 May.

  They stayed another 5 days and left BC on 13th May.


  Juan Huisa - 22 Dec 2007 (translation of email to Billi Bierling)

  Please find below the details for Huisa's expedition to the north side of Mount Everest in spring 2007:
   
  Arrived at BC        21st April 2007 (5300m)
  First night at ABC   26th April 2007 (6400m)
  Highest point        27th April 2007 (6900m)
   
  Both members of the expedition reached 6900m on 27th April, however, Huisa was not feeling well so they decided to descend back to ABC. On 28th April they descended to BC as neither of them was feeling well. They stayed at BC as Huisa was trying to recover from his pulmonary edema and Pedro had a kidney stone and was suffering from a lot of pain. Neither of them recovered, so they decided to abandon the expedition on 9th May.
   
  Expedition abandoned:  9th May
  Left BC:              11th May
   
  Members at end:       2
  Oxygen:               Taken, not used
   
  The two members arrived back in Kathmandu on 13th May and flew back to Spain on 15th May.
   
  As Huisa and Pedro are attempting to finish the Seven Summits they will probably come back to Everest in 2009. Huisa said that he needed a break from Everest, so that is why they are not coming back in 2008.


expid: EVER07189
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Pakistan
leaders: Muhammed Faizan
sponsor: Mission Everest Yoga 2007
approach: Lukla->Namche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2007-04-23
smtdate: 2007-05-21
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2007-05-24
campsites: BC(23/04,5300m),C1(01/05,6400m),C2(15/05,6750m),C3(19/05,7100m),C4(7900m,20/05),Smt(21/05)
agency: Himalayan Glacier/Encounter Nepal
routememo:
  Faizan reached C2 with Furwa Jangbu & Da Dendi on about 15 May. Faizan felt difficulty in breathing and Sherpas gave him oxygen for some time. Then Faizan told Da Dendi and Furwa Jangbu that he cannot go any further up and decided to give up climbing. Then they descended to BC same day. It was Ok with Faizan at BC.

  The two Sherpas started from South Col about 12 midnight of 20 May and reached summit around 10-10:15 am of 21 May, stayed on summit about an hour helping Ang Ngima and Furwa Jangbu with the rescue team of Usha Bista between C4 and C3 where they reached at 9 pm and slept there. Next day to BC. Faizan agreed that Da Dendi and Furwa Jangbu to got to summit. 

  Faizan returned to Kathmandu on 27 May and Furwa Jangbu and Da Tendi on 29 May. Faizan trying to leave as soon as possible. 

  Note: Upon return to Kathmandu, Faizan claimed success, but that was refuted by his Sherpas, another Sherpa Ang Ngima who was on the summit, and the liaison officer.

  Sherpas:
    Da Dendi, 22/1/69 (9-10-2025), Waku-9, 1st 8000er
    Phurba/Furwa Jangbu, 10/01/1970, Tamakhani-9, Solu, Lhotse 2004 Spring


expid: EVER07190
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Ang Ngima Sherpa
sponsor: Democratic Everest Expedition 2007
bcdate: 2007-04-30
smtdate: 2007-05-21
smttime: 1010
termdate: 2007-05-26
campsites: BC(30/04,5300m),C2(05/05,6500m),C3(06/05,7500m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  BC at 5300m on Khumbu Glacier
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Bhuwan S. Rai, Ang Ngima and Tshering Pintso left C4 at 00.30 am on 21 May for the summit. Ang Ngima reached summit at 10:10 am, stayed on summit about 45 minutes, descended to C4 at 5 pm, then to C3 at 9 pm. Next day to BC. When Ang Ngima reached summit there was nobody. After a while Da Dendi and Furwa Jangbu Sherpa of Pakistani climber's team came up and the two Sherpas helped taking pictures of Ang Ngima displaying the flags of 8 ruling political parties (first time on summit to have 8 political flags) and some of the human rights organizations and banner of Ang Ngima's sponsors. Ang Ngima placed photographs of martyr of Jana Andolan II (first time the martys photos placed on summit) and a big picture of Buddha given by the Siddhartha Foundation. Ang Ngima also made visual recording for a national song sung by him, written by Durga Lal Shrestha and music composed by Nhyoo Bajracharya. This is first time such visual recording done by Kami Sherpa of Nepal TV Lions Club Expedition Deputy Leader on 16 May.

  Bhuvan S. Rai went up to 8500m little above balcony on 21 May and had to turn back to South Col due to exhaustion. Ensu Rai went up to may be 300m above C3 on 19 May. He too became exhausted and went down to C2. Ang Rita as planed remained at the BC. Dorje Sherpa did not join the expedition instead he joined other expedition. Tshering Phintso went up to South Summit on 21 May he was tired and turned around to South Col. He tried again on 22 May reached South Summit where he took a rest but became sleepy and got frostbite in four fingers of his left hand and descended to C3 same day and next day to BC. He had treatment at BC and Pheriche and went to his village. Tshering Phintso left BC on 24 May. The expedition team was the last one to summit on that day. 

  Another member of the team  Miss Usha Bista reached South Col around 7 pm on 21 May. Bista said upon arriving she asked for water but none of the members of her Sherpa team offered her water. Her water bottles were often stolen (started missing even while she was at BC). Leader Ang Ngima asked her to return and not to try for summit, as she was moving very slowly. Ang Ngima also said to her that other members would not climb with her. They had argument for a while. Then she told Ang Ngima that she would climb with her Sherpa alone. Her Sherpa Kami first hesitated to go with her, but later [agreed] after long discussions he with Bista. While arriving near to Balcony around 4 am of 21 May, Bista's oxygen ran out and she asked Kami to change it. Kami changed the oxygen and she started climbing. After 20 minutes of climbing the new cyclinder also ran out. She suspects that Kami intentionally gave her used oxygen cyclinder. She did not see her Sherpa - he just disappeared. After that she does not remember that what had happened to her. She vaguely remembers two foreigners, one man, another woman and a Sherpa dragging her down to C4. She also remembers that the male member was calling over phone for help.

  Billi writes in her email of 9 June 9 2007 that Meagan McGrath (Canadian) told her (Billi) that she saw Usha Bista just below the Balcony at about 8350m. She was resting and her oxygen mask was askew and she was very unwell but still on way up. Bista was completely alone. Her oxygen mask cord was wrapped around her neck. McGrath and a guy called Chuck from Alpine Ascents and another Sherpa helped her down for about 20 metres. Dave Hahn (IMG team led by Mark Tucker) arrived and helped drag her to C4, where she was looked after by the doctors.

  Dave Hahn in his email of 16 June said that when he found Usha Bista, she was semi-conscious, lying on her back at about 8300m. Hahn was with Phinjo Dorjee from Pangboche. Meagan (McGrath), a Canadian climber, was with Usha and had her own oxygen on her as Usha's tank was empty. Hahn added that it was readily apparent to him that Usha had collapsed due to exhaustion and cerebral edema. He wrote that Usha's wrists and hands were quite cold; there was frost on her face. She was continually shaking off her mittens although her thumb was obviously frostbitten already. Hahn wrote that he placed his oxygen setup on Usha, injected her with Decadron (at 9 am) and worked with Phinjo Dorje to drag her downward. Several climbers descending from the summit pitched in to help in the next hour and two climbers from the South Col came up to help (Lhakpa Rita, the Sirdar/guide with AAI, and Michael Brown (cinematographer with Grocott leader Xtreme Everest). Dave Morton of AAI came to the base of the Triangular Face to help get Usha to high camp. Usha was re-warmed and stabilized at the South Col by doctors from the Xtreme Everest Expedition. Many Sherpas from AAI and Adventure Consultants, along with Luis Benitez of Adventure Consultants helped to get Usha to the top of the Geneva Spur and then she was lowered to C3 over next nine hours by a team of seven climbers. Hahn wrote that those seven consisted of himself, Mike Haugen, Casey Grom, Andre Vercueil (a doc from the Xtreme team), a Sherpa from Xtreme team, a Sherpa from the Asian Trekking group and a Sherpa that Hahn was told was from Usha's team (this man was exhausted and not terribly capable of helping, but he was at least present). Then they turned Usha over to the Xtreme docs at C3 at about 9 pm. Hahn said that throughout the day, she'd been going in and out of consciousness and increasingly, as we neared C3 she was crying out in pain. Usha said she became conscious in the moring of 22 May. She was still on oxygen. Then doctors asked about her climb, family, etc. She was brought down to C2 by eight Sherpas. At C2 she was given four packets of saline. On 25 May she was taken down to BC by 3 Sherpas and 5 foreigners. Left BC on 26 May by helicopter.

  All her fingers and toes were frostbitten and treatment was done at B&B hospital. Her right thumb was amputated after a few days. Rest of the fingers and toes are recovering. She used oxygen from C3 while climbing and was on oxygen when she was brought to hospital all the way from the place where she collapsed.

  Leader Ang Ngima said that Bista was very very slow. She left C3 at 6 am and reached South Col at 9 pm. He said that he told her not to continue for summit, but she insisted and went up. She reached just below the balcony on 21 May.


  Democratic Everest expedition led by Ang Ngima Sherpa - Spring 2007

  Mike Grocott, leader of Xtreme Everest team of doctors, said on 13 June that the expedition came late to Everest and had little acclimatization. They had no tents of their own at C4 so helped themselves to others empty tents.

  He was told that Tshering had paid $500 to join the expedition and Usha Bista had paid $12,000 for her membership (she told Jeevan on 7 March that money was no problem for her.)

  Her rescue involved many teams except her own. Mike Brown of the IMG expedition gave her oxygen and food, and he and David Hahn got her down from the Balcony to C4; Casey Grom and Andre Vercueil of Grocott's team, plus two Grocott Sherpas, Mark Tucker's IMG expedition's Sherpas and other teams Sherpas got her to C3, where Grocott team doctors took care of her, and in C2 other Grocott doctors looked after her.

  Grocott doctors also helped Tshering with his frostbite.


expid: EVER07142
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Mike Marolt, Steve Marolt
sponsor: Cho Oyu-Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2007-05-12
smtdate: 2007-05-20
termdate: 2007-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 8600m due to feet being too cold
othersmts: Climbed Cho Oyu 5 May (CHOY-071-13) by Steve Marolt, Karma Sherpa and Pemba Norbu Sherpa
campsites: BC(12/05),ABC(14/05,6400m),C1(17/05,7000m),C2(18/05,7700m),C3(19/05,8300m),xxx(20/05,8600m)
agency: None
primid: CHOY07113
routememo:
  Entire team left C3 at 9:00 pm on 19 May for summit. Steve turned back at 8400m at about midnight and Mike, Jim Gile and both Sherpas at 8600m at about 1:30 am on 20 May. They gave up because they were not using oxygen and the members wore ski boots, so their feet had gotten too cold to continue the climb.

  The three members descended to C2 on the 20th and on the 21st skied from C2 to the moraine of ABC. Both Sherpas descended to ABC on the 20th.

  Sherpas:
    Karma, 7/7/76, Sotang, Solu, no 8000ers
    Pemba Norbu, 12/6/78, Lelep, Taplejung, no 8000ers


  Kari Kobler - 28 May 2007

  The three-member team of Mike Marolt, his twin brother Steve, and Jim Gile went first to Cho Oyu and from there directly to Everest. They had two Sherpas with them on Cho Oyu.

  They arrived at their Cho Oyu BC on 19 April. On about 10 May they went for the summit; Gile and Mike Marolt stopped at 8100m, but Steve went to the summit with Norbu and Karma Sherpas. The three members then skied down the mountain to C1, Steve from the summit and the others from 8100m.

  They went immediately to Everest and arrived at BC on 14 May. They now had three Sherpas with them: Norbu and Karma from their Cho Oyu climb, and Mingma from Kobler's Everest climb.

  The Americans moved up the mountain as follows:

  	ABC - 16 May
  	C1  - 17 May, down to ABC on about 18 May
  	C2  - 19 May at 7800m
  	C3  - 20 May at 8300m

  On 21 May they left C3 for the summit, but they turned back at 8500m. They had climbed without any oxygen; now they were cold and very tired, and they descended to C2.

  On 22 May the three members skied from C2 to 6600m.

  Mitenjen (Mingma) Sherpa, Nurbugaon, Makalu-Barun, 30/07/1969
     (to 8300m with Steve Marolt?)


expid: EVER07195
peakid: EVER
year: 2007
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Sergio Martini
sponsor: Italian on Everest
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-14
smtdate: 2007-05-21
termdate: 2007-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 8440 due to lack of Sherpa support?
campsites: BC(14/04,4600m),C1,C2,C3,C4,xxx(about 8400m,21/05)
accidents: Martini's Sherpa Dawa died on 26 April due to ice falling on his head at the base of Lhotse Face
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Parajuli)
routememo:
  Willie Benegas told Miss Hawley that Martini's Sherpa Dawa had ice fall on his head at the bottom of Lhotse Face. Dawa's body was brought to BC by lots of Sherpas and Martini himself was working with other Sherpas. Philip Ling (member of Lhotse team of Dan Mazur) in his email wrote that when Martini's first Sherpa died, Thamserku refused to give him another one. Martini came to Dan Mazur for help. Mazur told him that his Sherpas would carry some gear up the mountain for Martini and De Stefani teams. Mr Sharma of Everest Parivar said that the Mazur Sherpas did carry some loads to C2, but no Sherpas were provided to Martini as they (Everest Parivar) themselves were lacking Sherpas because two of their climbing Sherpas got sick and left BC. Benegas told Miss Hawley that Martini went above C4 and returned. 

  Martini returned to Kathmandu probably on 30 May. Jeevan met Martini at his hotel on 31 May at about 7:15 am. But he refused to talk to him about his climbing. Jeevan talked to Parajuli of Thamserku, but he did not know anything about a substitute Sherpa or of Martini's climbing. Parajuli said he met Martini after his return from mountain for a very short time and did not talk about climbing.


  Martini on Everest from Willie Benegas - 29 May 2007

  Sergio Martini arrived at BC with Fausto De Stefani, who went to Lhotse, a week after Benegas arrived at BC, which was the 7th of April. Martini climbed climbed without oxygen. At the start of his climb, he had one Sherpa with him, Dawa, who was killed by ice falling on his head at the bottom of the Lhotse Face. Martini was "devastated" by this fatal accident. The body was brought down to BC; Martini went back up again without a Sherpa. He climbed above C4, but not to the summit. He wants to come to Everest via the South Col again in 2008.

  Sherpa:
    Dawa Sherpa, 19/6/66 (5/3/2033), Kanku-9, Solukhumbu


  Email to Jeevan from Philip Ling - 22 July 2007

  When his first Sherpa died at the base of the Lhotse Face, Thamserku Trekking refused to give him another one. Sergio, Fausto and Roberto were very unhappy with Thamserku Trekking. Sergio came to our dining tent one day and Dan Mazur told him our Sherpas would carry some gear up the mountain for them. But our Sherpas did not go with Sergio on his summit day. I don't know what happened after that, or even if Sergio had a Sherpa above C3. I do know that Roberto Manni summited Lhotse, because he was on the summit at the same time with a member of my team.


expid: GAUG02301
peakid: GAUG
year: 2002
route1: W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kiyoshi Ishii
sponsor: Club Yeti Mustang Expedition Summer 2002
ascent1: 2nd
approach: Jomsom->Chhamnnang->Tange->Yara->Gumathati
bcdate: 2002-09-23
smtdate: 2002-09-25
termdate: 2002-09-26
campsites: BC(23/09),Smt(25/09)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC North of Gaugiri.

  Left Kathmandu 6 Sept and returned to Kathmandu 7 Oct.

  When he was on the mountain in 2002 he thought he had not climbed Gaugiri but some other mountain. Only when he returned in summer 2004 and climbed a peak east of it did he realize he actually had climbed Gaugiri in 2002.


expid: HIME07101
peakid: HIME
year: 2007
route1: NE Face-NW Ridge
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Mstislav Gorbenko, Sergei Pugachov
sponsor: National Himalayan Expedition Ukraine-Himal 2007
ascent1: 8th
bcdate: 2007-04-13
smtdate: 2007-05-19
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2007-05-26
othersmts: Attempted Simnang Himal (SIMN-071-01)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
campsites:
  BC(13/04,3600m),ABC(19/04,5100m),C1(23/04,5900m),C2(25/04,6500m),C3(10/05,6200m),C4(12/05,6800m),C5(16/05,7250m),C6(17/05,7680m),Smt(19/05)

routememo:
  BC  east-northeast of mountain north of Lidandu Col
  ABC at Lidandu Col east of north
  C1  on plateau east of Rani Peak
  C2  on South Ridge of Rani Peak
  C3  on plateau northeast of summit
  C4  on NE Face
  C5  on NW Ridge bergschrund
  C6  on NW Ridge.

  21 km from BC to summit. Summit party left C4 at 3:50 am 19 May, on top 9:30 am of 19 May, to C4 about 8:00 pm. NW Face very difficult; very steep (60 degrees in middle section), but section of 80-degree very hard ice). Ridge not technical, but bad rock and snow, so climbed 100m down from ridge on right side for 800m. On descent no sleeping bags in C6 and C5 crushed by snow, so had to go to C4 to sleep on 19th. 20th May to C3, 21st to C1, and 22nd to BC.


expid: HIML07101
peakid: HIML
year: 2007
route1: W Ridge
nation: Iran
leaders: Ebrahim Naderi
sponsor: Esfahan Himlung Expedition 2007
ascent1: 19th
approach: Nadi->Jagat->Dharapani->Koto->Meta
bcdate: 2007-04-02
smtdate: 2007-04-10
smttime: 1730
termdate: 2007-04-13
campsites: BC(02/04,4850m),ABC(04/04,5380m),C1(06/04,5840m),C2(08/04,6300m),Smt(10/04)
achievment: 1st Iranian expedition to Himlung
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Ahmadi, Bahman Ziari, Jamalifar, Kohnouri, Labbaf, Mobarakeh, Raji, Reza, Salehi, Taei, Namgya Sherpa and Dawa Sangmu Bhote left C2 at 04:00 hours. Bahman Ziari, Jamalifar, Kohnouri, Mobarakeh, Raji, Reza, Namgya Sherpa and Dawa Sangmu Bhote reached summit at 17:30 hours. Climbers stayed on summit about 30 minutes, then descended to C2 at 02:00 hours of 11 April. Next day to BC. 

  Ahmadi, Labbaf, Salehi and Taei turned around from 7000m due to lack of enough time. Leader Naderi and Kamali went up to C2. They did not attempt for summit as they had to look after camps and supplies for climbing members. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 18 April and members left on different dates. The leader is suppose to leave Kathmandu on 26 April.

  Sherpas: 
    Namgya Sherpa, 18/7/70, Olanjungola-9
    Dawa Sangmu Bhote, 6/9/77 (21/5/2034), Hatiya-3


expid: KANG07101
peakid: KANG
year: 2007
route1: SW Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Oscar Cadiach
sponsor: Friendship Expedition to Kangchenjunga
bcdate: 2007-04-30
smtdate: 2007-05-24
termdate: 2007-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to bad conditions
campsites: BC(30/04,5500m),C1(05/05,6200m),C2(11/05,6800m),C3(22/05,7600m),Biv(23/05,8250m),xxx(8300m,24/05)
accidents: De Pineda's fatal fall
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  C4 (biv) at northeast edge of Great Shelf.

  Spanish Kangchenjunga led by Oscar Cadiach - 31 May 2007

  On 23 May Cadiach, De Pineda, Goni and Reketa climbed from C3 in ankle-deep soft snow, which made their progress slow, towards the col between Yalung Kang and Kangchenjunga's main summit. They reached 8300m at about 6:00 pm. Goni and Reketa now decided to return to C3 because they had no tent with them, and Cadiach gave them his headlamp. It was a dark but clear night with some starlight and a half moon. Cadiach and De Pineda stayed at 8300m in an unprepared bivouac with a little protection from a rock formation from the very cold wind. They did have a Sterno stove, and they heated snow to make tea.

  At 5:30 am on the 24th, Cadiach and De Pineda resumed their climb, moving "slowly, slowly" to a point about 100 meters below the final summit ridge and from there traversed over to the summit, which they reached at 9:30 am. They quickly left the summit and retraced their route down the couloir from the col.

  About 100m below the top of the couloir at 8200m, Cadiach was leading the descent when suddenly De Pineda came hurtling past him, not making any attempt to stop himself or crying out. Cadiach thinks De Pineda must have collapsed and died, probably from a heart attack, and was already dead as he plunged 1000 linear meters down the mountainside to about 7900m near the plateau. Cadiach put the body in a crevasse close to where it stopped falling and went to C4 for the night.

  Cadiach descend to C2 on the 25th and to BC on the 26th. Rubio came up to meet Cadiach at C1 on the 26th. He had stayed in BC throughout the climb because of a persistent bad headache.


  Desnivel - 29 May 2007

  Further details have been provided on Inigo de Pineda's death. The accident took place last Friday, May 25th, at 8300 meters, according to fellow team members Patxi Goni and Julen Reketa.

  Originally taking part in the team's summit push, Patxi and Julen turned around on Thursday from above C4 due to bad snow conditions and the late time, while Catalans Oscar and Inigo chose to go on toward the summit. The climbers going down found their C2 swept by the wind, and thus had to proceed all the way back to BC; the two still climbing were forced to improvise a bivouac at 8250 meters. 

  On the following morning, the climbers in BC followed their mates' progress through binoculars. "They saw Oscar and Inigo climbing up the upper couloir leading to the top, but they turned around shortly after setting off from the bivouac place." Diario de Navarra reports. "Minutes afterwards, Julen and Patxi saw one of the descending climbers slipping and falling 1000 meters down; finding out it was Inigo hours afterwards."


  Oscar Cadiach - 27 May 2008 (in response to email questions from Elizabeth Hawley)

  If you could now please help me again, I would like to know what did happen on the 24th of May last year.
   
  EH: Did you and De Pineda leave your bivouac at 8300m at 5:30 am with the plan to go to the summit?

  OC: Yes. I left the bivouac from 8200m at 5:30 am.

  EH: What was the highest altitude you reached, and at what time did you reach it?

  OC: Highest altitude at 8300m that I reached around 9:30 am.
   
  EH: Were you on the final summit ridge above the col between Yalungkang and Kangchenjunga's main peak?

  OC: We were between the col and the main peak, the same height that of col.
   
  EH: What was the reason you did not go higher?

  IC: We always said that we wouldn't step on the top. We were very cold.
   
  EH: Is it correct that while you were descending from the col and were at 8200m, which was about 100m below the top of the couloir, De Pineda came falling rapidly from behind you and continued falling past you to about 7900m, near the plateau?

  OC: Absolutely yes.
   
  EH: Is it correct that you went to him, found that he had tragically died, put his body in a crevasse near it, and went down to C4 to spend that night?

  OC: Yes.


  Email from Oscar Cadiach - 8 May 2009

  I am very sorry to have troubled you, it wasn't my intention. I remembered i was very confused when I came down the mountain with all the problems that had happened and perhaps I told you what I had in mind to explain to De Pineda's family that he reached the summit because it was all very sad.

  We wanted to arrive very near the summit but not to pass over. We stopped at 150m of the summit so for me we didn't reach it and it is what I have told. I don't know how it came to the notice that we had reached the summit. Perhaps it was my fault so I'm very sorry. De Pineda's' family don't know very much about mountaineering climbing and I thought it could be nicer to explain that he reached the summit.


expid: KHAM07101
peakid: KHAM
year: 2007
nation: USA
leaders: Peter Athans
sponsor: Mt. Khumjung Himal Expedition
termdate: 2007-03-26
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  Mt. Khumjung Himal Expedition led by Peter Athans, Spring 2007 - 20 April 2007

  (The mountain is 6759m high in Mustang's Damodar Himal)

  The two-man team's start and their progress after that were slowed by two snowstorms and Athan's other objectives including a film project besides this climb, plus the late arrival of their horsemen at Tange.

  From Jomsom, the team went north-northeast to Kagbeni, Geling, Ghani Chharang (aka Tsarang) and De; from De, east, south and west to Tange Khola, at the confluence of Tange Khola and Chame Khola; base camp was just into the Chame Valley and south of Chame Khola.

  From here they could just see the top half of Mt. Khumjung (called Khumjungar on the HMG map) and hills northwest of the mountain. It was a very wild area visited only by goat herders; no one was living there.

  They realized that they had come too early in the spring to be able to proceed to Khumjung because of deep snow. Also, just two climbers with no Sherpas was too small a team. Furthermore, Athans had to meet a trekking group in Kathmandu to lead them in Khumbu.

  They did not get to their mountain -- did no climbing at all. Athans said he wanted to return in the autumn with more time and more men. This trip was purely a reconnaissance.


expid: LANG07101
peakid: LANG
year: 2007
route1: S Face-SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Chang-Baek
sponsor: 2007 From Halla to Langtang Lirung Korea Snow-Rock Expedition
approach: Langtang Khola->Langtang village, north to BC
bcdate: 2007-04-03
smtdate: 2007-04-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to route to summit too long
campsites: BC(03/04,4400m),C1(06/04,5000m),C2(08/04,5400m,C3(11/04,5600m),C4(14/04,6200m),xxx(24/04,6700m)
agency: NE-KO Treks
routememo:
  24 April Ko and 2 Sherpas in summit bid from C4 at 6:00 am and reached 6700m at 11:00 am after having crossed crevasses but stopped at 6700m, where he could see route too long to reach top and return to C4 same day, so abandoned attempt and returned to C3 because C4 exposed to avalanche; there was avalanche activity but team not actually affected. 

  Yi went to C4 with Ko and 3 Sherpas on 23rd April but Yi and Nima Dorje did not join summit attempt on 24th because Yi had bad headache and could not go higher and descended to C3. Oh to C3 only. Lee stayed in BC throughout climb.

  Sherpas:
    Nima Dorje Sherpa (7/10/80), Makalu-5, Tumlingtar, Sankhuwasabha
    De Chhumbe Sherpa (22/9/87), Makalu-5
    Mingma Thinduk Sherpa (14/9/69), Tumlingtar


expid: LHOT07101
peakid: LHOT
year: 2007
route1: W Face
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Martin Minarik
sponsor: Minarik Lhotse Expedition
ascent1: 109
bcdate: 2007-04-23
smtdate: 2007-05-21
smttime: 1800
termdate: 2007-05-25
campsites: BC(23/04),C1(29/04,6100m),C2(30/04,6400m),C3(2/05,7400m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Iceland Trekking (Tendi)
routememo:
  From C3 tried to find Kalny's body which could not find in 3 days, must be buried under pure ice. Down to BC. 

  Minarik up to C3 on 17 May, 3 nights waiting for fresh snow to consolidate; knew couloir's snow could be deep. Left C3 evening of 19th, climbed all night and had to start breaking trail at 7800-7900m; stopped when heat got bad at 7000m; rested noon to 5:00 pm, then started trail again up couloir in waist-deep snow. At 8250m stopped climb at 9:00 pm and dug hole to sleep in. 21 May started just before noon after cooking. At 1:30 pm stepped aside because climbers descending from top (including Pemba Doma Sherpa) were kicking a lot of snow and ice and he didn't want it in his face. A minute later Pemba Doma came falling down and she would have taken him with her. She fell from same spot where Kalny fell in 2006, so Minarik frozen for half an hour not knowing whether to go up or down, then on up to top at 6:00 pm. Stayed on top half an hour, then descended slowly because of accident. Spent night in Falahey's C4. Next day (22nd) in descent saw Pema Doma's body at same spot Kalny had stopped falling. Spent night in C3, 23rd in C2 and BC on 24th. On 25th to Lobuche and helicopter to Kathmandu on 26th. 

  This climb "took a lot out of one emotionally" because of searching for Kalny's body and coincidences of Pema Doma's fatal accident.


expid: LHOT07102
peakid: LHOT
year: 2007
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: SummitClimb Lhotse Expedition 2007
ascent1: 108
countries: Australia, UK
bcdate: 2007-04-08
smtdate: 2007-05-21
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2007-05-26
campsites: BC(08/04,5350m),C1(16/04,6100m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(05/05,7150m),C4(20/05,7850m),Smt(21/05)
accidents: Kim persistent bad headache; Fitzpatrick pulmonary edema
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  Lhotse Expedition led by Dan Mazur, Spring 2007 - 3 June 2007

  Summit party of Fitzpatrick, Manning and Mazur (no Sherpas) left C4 at 4:30 am on 21 May for the top. Fitzpatrick and Manning were on the summit at 12:30 pm. Manning descended in good time to C4, but Fitzpatrick, who had been going strong on his way to the top, in descent from about 2:00 pm developed pneumonia and then also pulmonary edema.

  Mazur had stopped his own ascent about 100 meters below the summit at a dangerous place to wait there for his two summiting members in case they needed help here. Fitzpatrick needed it; Mazur descended slowly with him from just below the couloir to C4 that day. All three went down to C2 on the 22nd, but Mazur with Fitzpatrick stayed an extra day at C2 before going to BC. Fitzpatrick flew to Kathmandu by helicopter.

  Oxygen: 
    Manning in C4 to top to C4
    Mazur from C4 to high point to C4
    Fitzpatrick in C4 to top to Kathmandu

  Other non-summiting members:

  Kim went to C2, but had eight-hour bad headaches daily and also got a bad head cold; left expedition 5 May.

  Ling went to C4, but no higher because he didn't want to use oxygen, but not able to climb to top without it.


expid: LHOT07103
peakid: LHOT
year: 2007
route1: W Face
nation: Australia
leaders: Blair Falahey
sponsor: Lhotse Dream Expedition
ascent1: 106
approach: Lukla->Lobuche
bcdate: 2007-04-16
smtdate: 2007-05-21
smttime: 1145
termdate: 2007-05-25
campsites: BC(16/04,5200m),C1(24/04,6100m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(28/04,7100m),C4(29/05,7800m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Summit team left C4 at 3 am together with Will Cross. Weather was clear. Snow conditions were difficult as there was a thin crust on top of snow. When they arrived on summit, Mrs Pemba Doma was on summit with other Sherpa. Descent was difficult to walk down face down so they down climbed. They overtook Pemba Doma on the down climb and heard her scream and saw her slip when they were at 8300m. Next thing they saw was Pemba and other Sherpa slipping past them. Blair said they were not going too fast but he could not stop them. Other Sherpa managed to stop himself. Whilst Pemba Doma slipped further and they lost sight of her.

  Blair and team helped the other climber, who was in shock, down to C4. They arrived at 5 pm. Martin Minarik (Czech) stumbled into Blair's tent at 12:33 am. Blair took him in and gave him tea and food. Next day C2 and BC on 23 May.

  Nawang Tenzing (01/02/60, Phortse) was with Will Cross (American on same Asian Trekking permit). Will Cross abandoned his summit bid and Nawang Tenzing then continued to summit with Blair Falahey (summit credited on LHOT-071-04).


expid: LHOT07104
peakid: LHOT
year: 2007
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Will Cross
sponsor: American on Lhotse
ascent1: 106 w/Australia
approach: Lukla->Lobuche
bcdate: 2007-04-14
smtdate: 2007-05-21
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2007-05-24
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(14/04,5200m),C1(24/04,6100m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(28/04,7100m),C4(20/05,7800m),xxx-Cross(21/05,8200m),Smt-Sherpa(21/05)

routememo:
  xxx at 8200m end of fixed line.

  Cross left C4 at 3 am with Nawang Tenzing Sherpa, Blair Falahey and Palden Namgye. Cross led up to 8100m, but then he stopped due to cold feet. Nawang, Falahey and Palden carried on to summit and arrived there at 11 am.

  Cross did not like snow conditions; it was to sugary. He descended to C4, thawed his feet and carried on to C2 and arrived at 2 pm.

  Nawang Tenzing summited with Falahey and Palden. On way down they saw Mrs Pemba Doma slip. The other Sherpa climber who was with Pemba Doma, managed to stop. Falahey, Nawang and Palden helped him down to C4 and arrived at 5 pm.


expid: LHOT07105
peakid: LHOT
year: 2007
route1: W Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Park Sang-Soo
sponsor: For Hope 2007 Korea Expressway Corporation Everest Expedition
ascent1: 104
approach: Lukla->Namche->Gorakshep->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-09
smtdate: 2007-05-04
smttime: 0823
termdate: 2007-06-10
othersmts: Climbed Everest 16 May (EVER-071-71)
campsites: BC(09/04,5400m),C1(12/04,5800m),C2(18/04,6300m),C3(02/05,7000m),C4(03/05,7600m),Smt(04/05)
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal
primid: EVER07171
routememo:
  BC on Khumbu Glacier
  C1 above Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 below South Col.

  Kang, Kim Mi-Gon, Youn Jung-Hyun, Dorje, Dorchi and Mingma Tenzi Sherpa left C4 at 11:45 pm on 3 May. reached summit at 8:23 am on 4 May and stayed on summit for about 40 minutes. Kang, Kim Mi-Gon, descended to C2 at about 5 pm and Youn Jung-Hyun to C3 at 5:30 pm. Next day all arrived BC. 

  Park Nam-Soo climbed up to C4 on 3 May. He could not go to summit due to exhaustion and turned back to C3. 

  Lee Seok-Hui was sent back to Kathmandu from Pheriche by helicopter on 7 April. He suffered from appendicitis. He left Kathmandu for Korea on 14 April after operation of his appendicitis in B & B hospital. 

  Out of five Sherpas Dorje, Dorchi, Mingma reached to the summit. Sanu and Wangchuk went up to South Col.

  Leader Park Sang-Soo and Kim Mi-Gon returned to Kathmandu on 22 May and rest of the members on 25 and will leave on 29 May.


expid: LHOT07106
peakid: LHOT
year: 2007
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Jamie Laidlaw
sponsor: Mountain Madness Lhotse Expedition 2007
bcdate: 2007-04-07
smtdate: 2007-05-24
termdate: 2007-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to weather getting worse and oxygen mask broke
campsites: BC(07/04,5350m),C1(14/04,6100m),C2(19/04,6400m),C3(14/05,7200m),C4(23/05,7700m),xxx(24/05,8300m)
achievment: 1st Lhotse couloir ski descent
agency: Mountain Madness
routememo:
  C4 below couloir on West Face
  High point in couloir.

  Mountain Madness Nuptse/Lhotse led by Jamie Laidlaw - 29 May 2007

  Laidlaw's first job was to guide a "sightseeing" group through the Icefall into the Western Cwm on a Nuptse permit; there was no intention to actually climb Nuptse. The group's members were:

  1. Ms. Erin Cally, American - went to C2 at 6400m in the Cwm
  2. John Inderdall, Norwegian - went to C2
  3. Grant Musgrove, American - went to C1 at 6100m at the top of the Icefall
  4. Henry William Querfurth, American - went to C2
  5. Trond Stenevson, Norwegian - went to 5500m in the Icefall

  Cally, Inderdall and Musgrove left BC on 21 April; Stenevson, had left earlier. Laidlaw guided Querfurth to C2 on the 23rd, and Querfurth left BC on the 26th.

  After taking Querfurth to C2, Laidlaw got pulmonary edema and went down to Namche Bazar to recover. He returned to BC 1 May, moved up through the Mountain Madness Everest Expedition's C1, C2, C3 and alone went for Lhotse's summit. He pitched his C4 at 7700m and left it for the top at 11:00 pm on the 23rd. He reached 8300m in the couloir at 2:30 am on the 24th; now, when he changed oxygen bottles, his oxygen regulator broke, and he turned back. (He had been on oxygen from C3). He now had no oxygen and had just had pulmonary edema, so he decided "not to push things further" and was back in C4 at 4:00 am. He skied from 8300m to C4 in the dark without oxygen but with a headlamp to see by. Next day, the 25th, he descended on skis to C2 in the Cwm in just 30 minutes, was tired on arrival and slept in C2. Went down to BC on 26th.


expid: LHOT07107
peakid: LHOT
year: 2007
route1: W Face
nation: India
leaders: Ramesh Chandra Tripathi
sponsor: Indian Air Force Mountain Lhotse Expedition 2007
approach: Lukla->Namche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2007-05-10
smtdate: 2007-05-23
termdate: 2007-06-03
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to poor Sherpa support and high wind
campsites: BC(10/05,5300m),C1(14/05,5900m),C2(20/05,6300m),C3(29/05,7200m),C4(23/05,7900m),xxx(29/05)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  Indian Air Force Mt. Lhotse Expedition 2007

  Dahiya, Jaikishan, Melur Rahman and Panda reached C3 on 29 May. Sherpas told the members that they would come from C2 to C3 and go together to C4 on 30 May to summit on 31 May. Sherpas were supposed to leave C2 around 6 am, but Sherpas did not move from C2 until 8 am of 30 May saying that there is strong wind above C3. Time was running and the members at C3 were ready to move long ago. As there were no signs of Sherpas moving out of their tents at C2, leader Tripathi decided to call off the climb and asked Sherpas to go to get down gear from C4 and the expedition was cancelled. Then C2 Sherpas went to C4, dismantled, and came down to C2 at 2:30 pm. Next day to BC.

  Bahl to C1 on 17 May; supposed to be in second team
  Choudhry to C2 on 23 May and back to C2; had bad cough
  Nizamuddin to 5900m, support team
  Pal to 5900m; left BC on 17 May and Kathmandu on 20 May as his mother passed away 
  Rawat to 5900m, support team 
  Saini to C2 on 25 May
  Ajit Singh to C2 on 25 May 
  Singh Jasbir to C2 on 25 May 
  Tripathi to C1 and BC 
  Tyagi to 5900m; left BC on 23 May, took helicopter from Namche and 24 to Delhi 
    as his father passed away
  Yendigeri to C1, support team

  On 15 or 16 May (leader does not remember the exact date) eleven members and three Sherpas of the Indian Lhotse expedition brought down to C1 bodies of two South Korean climbers who fell from SW Face of Everest. Next day the bodies were brought down to BC by 8 hired Sherpas of South Korean team and 3 Sherpas of the Indian team. The expedition returned to Kathmandu on May 12 and will leave on 16 or 17 May.

  At the beginning the expedition had eight Sherpas; later two more Sherpas were added totaling to 10 Sherpas. Sherpas who went up to C4 on 23 May.

  1.  Ang Pasang, 28/9/79 (12-6-2036), Waku-4, Lhotse 15/5/04
  2.  Tendi Sherpa, 2/11/76), Gudel, 1st 8000er
  3.  Tendi Sherpa, (45), Tapting-6
  4.  Pemba Sherpa, 28/2/80 (16-11-2036), Makalu-5
  5.  Gyalje Sherpa, 26/9/77 (10-6-2034), Ragani-8, Okhaldhunga, 1st 8000er
  6.  Furi Sherpa, 14/3/86, Chuple Bhanjyang-5, Okhaldhunga
  7.  Santa Bahadur Gurung, 23/4/59 (10-1-2016), Chisapani, Swara-5, Gorkha
  8.  Lhakpa Sherpa, 31/7/72 (16-4-2029), Phalate-2, Okhaldhunga, Ever smtr; up to C2
  9.  Lhakpa Sherpa, (42), Lower Kharka-9, Walung
  10. Mingmar Tenzi, (2036) 1979-80, Makalu-4; up to Yellow band

  The expedition first applied CTMA for permission to climb Cho Oyu. It took long time to get reply. Member's name list was sent as it appears in the passport. Passport does not carry army rank. Later Delhi asked the Indian Embassy in Beijing to help expedite the permit attaching detailed list of the expedition member with ranks. The Embassy accordingly sent its request for permit and also to give required facilities to expedition. Leader Tripathi thinks that when CTMA received the request letter, it might have found the difference between the previous member list without army rank and the new one with full rank. Then the CTMA replied saying that it cannot extend required facilities to the expedition because it does not has enough time to make necessary arrangement for the Indian expedition. Then the expedition decided to go to Lhotse.


expid: LHOT07108
peakid: LHOT
year: 2007
route1: W Face
nation: Canada
leaders: Thomas Masterson
sponsor: Canadian Lhotse Spring 2007
ascent1: 110
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-12
smtdate: 2007-05-21
smttime: 1900
termdate: 2007-05-23
campsites: BC(12/04,5300m),C1(15/04,5800m),C2(16/04,6500m),C3(06/05,7200m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Climb High Himalaya
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 at above the icefall
  C2 at Western Cwm
  C3 at Lhotse West Face.

  Masterson in his email reply said that he summited on 21 May at 7 pm (no oxygen, no guides or Sherpas. He left Kathmandu on 30 May).


expid: LHOT07109
peakid: LHOT
year: 2007
route1: W Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Fausto De Stefani
sponsor: Italians on Lhotse
ascent1: 107
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2007-04-14
smtdate: 2007-05-21
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2007-05-27
campsites: BC(14/04,4600m),C1(5800m),C2(6500m),C3(7200m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(21/05)
accidents: De Stefani suffered from stomach problem
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Parajuli)
routememo:
  De Stefani and Manni left C4 for summit on 21 May. De Stefani had stomach problem and turned around from couloir to C4. Next day to C3. Manni continued and got to summit around 12:45 pm [or about 11:45 am if Pemba Doma was there?]. The team returned to Kathmandu on 30 May?


  De Stefani on Lhotse - Willi Benegas -  29 May 2007

  De Stefani went into the Lhotse couloir on the same day as the Czech Martin Minarik (which was 20 May, according to Minarik). But De Stefani had stomach trouble and went down to Lhotse C4 that day and to C3 the next day.

  Roberto Manni climbed to the summit, also without oxygen. He reached the summit 15 minutes after Mrs Pemba Doma. (Pemba Doma was on the top at 11:30 am of 21 May, according to the Ministry of Tourism's press release on 22 May).

  The Italians left BC the same day as Benegas, 27 May. They were in Pheriche on 27 May and Kathmandu on 30 May. They had arrived at BC one week after Benegas: Benegas arrived on 7 April.

  The Italians climbed without oxygen or Sherpas.


expid: LHOT07110
peakid: LHOT
year: 2007
route1: W Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Pemba Doma Sherpa
sponsor: Pemba Doma's Lhotse Climb
ascent1: 105
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2007-05-12
smtdate: 2007-05-21
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2007-05-28
campsites: BC(12/05,5300m),C2(17/05,6500m),C3(19/05,7200m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(21/05)
accidents: Pemba Doma's fatal fall
achievment: 1st Nepali woman on Lhotse summit?
agency: Climb High Himalaya
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C2 at Western Cwm
  C3 at Lhotse West Face
  C4 at Lhotse Face.

  Lhotse - Pemba Doma - Spring 2007

  Pemba Doma and Da Sange left C4 at 6 am, reached summit at 12:24 pm [11:30 according to Ministry of Tourism]. They stayed on summit between 5 to 10 minutes. They were followed by one member (Falahey) and two Sherpas (Palden Namgya and Nawang Tenzing both from Phortse) of Asian Trekking. Then they started descending. About 100 meters below the summit there is a small flat area where 3 or 4 people can sit, Pemba Doma asked Da Sange to go little away from her (Da Sange thought that she might want to urinate). Da Sange was just 5 or 6 steps down, he suddenly heard her frighening scream and before he could realize the reason Pemba Doma took him along down. Pemba Doma fell all the way down to the base of Lhotse face. Later at C4 Da Sange was told by they two Sherpas that he was unconscious and they brought him down to C4 still unconscious. The two Sherpas found Da Sange stuck on an empty Oxygen cylinder with his large backpack. Next day Da Sange went down to C2 and on 23 to BC. He was not seriously injured; only he had pain in his left side ribs. Pemba Dome's body was retrieved on 22 May and cremated in Tengboche on 25 May.

  Da Sange said that there was no sign of altitude effect on Pemba Doma. She was quite Ok and happy with her achievement. He thinks most probably her crampon might some how stuck on her garment and got off balance on the slope.

  According to Da Sange camps were the same as of Thomas Masterson. Pemba Doma shared the tent with another woman (Cristina Piolini?) climber who was supposed to go to Lhotse and Everest at C4 on 20 May. Martin Minarik, Czech climber who was ascending on Lhotse on 21 May, told Miss Hawley that he saw falling of Pemba Doma and Sherpa. He said that at around 1:30 pm he had to step aside because climbers descending from the top including Pemba Doma were kicking lots of snow and ice and he did not want it hit his face. A minute later Pemba Doma came falling down. She would have taken him along if he did not duck aside. Minarik told Miss Hawley that Pemba Doma fell from the same spot where his friend Kalny fell last year and on his descending from C4 on 22 May he saw Pemba Doma's body where his friend's body was (fell last year).

  Rajen Thapa, husband of Pemba Doma, and Da Sange said that she arrived BC on 12 May whereas Masterson's email mentioned the date as on 11 May. Rajen also told me that Pemba Doma summited at about 12:30 pm and she climbed Lhotse in 10 days of her arrival to BC.

  Da Sange Sherpa from Bhakanje-1. He was 17 years old at the time of issuing the citizenship certificate on 12-1-2045. Lhotse is his first 8000m summit. He was on Dhaulagiri two years ago. He had to turn back from C1 because members gave up climbing.

  Source: Rajen Thapa, Da Sange, email of Thomas Masterson, Miss Hawley as told by Minarik, and information about Asian Trekking Lhotse team from Billi.


  Mrs. Pemba Doma fatal accident on Lhotse 

  Blair Falahey, Australian independent climber, told Billi on 29 May 2007 that when his summit party left C4 at 7800m for the top, the weather was clear but the snow conditions were difficult as there was a thin crust on top of the snow. When they arrived at the summit at 11:00 am, Pemba Doma was there with another Sherpa. The descent was difficult facing down, so they down climbed facing the mountain side.

  They overtook Pemba Doma on the down-climb and heard her scream and saw her slip when they were at 8300m. The next thing they say was Pemba Doma and the Sherpa with her, slipping past them. Falahey said they were not going very fast, but he could not stop them. The other Sherpa managed to stop himself, but Pemba Doma slipped farther, and they lost sight of her. Falahey and his party helped the other climber, who was in shock, down to C4, which they reached at 5 pm.


  Email from Thomas Masterson - 31 July 2007

  Pemba Doma arrived at BC for the first time on 11 May. She went from BC to C2 on 11 May. She went from BC to C2 on 17 May to C3 on 19 May & C4 on 20 May. She headed up from C4 to 5:30 am about an hour earlier than I. These times are estimated from dawn as I did not have a watch, and so I also have no idea as to the time she got to the summit. I was bit above the summit ridge col heading up the final bit as she was coming down. Weather was nice; no frostbite or other injuries.

  There were people descending from the South Col on Everest who saw them fall. I believe her Sherpa was "Sangay." These folks should have much more reliable information on her climb than I.

  Pemba Doma was climbing with a Sherpa; they were apparently roped together. Whe the accident occured, both fell and the Sherpa was also seriously injured. I did not see the accident as they were ahead of me and on their way down while I was higher up near the summit. I was climbing solo.


