# exped

expid: CHOY09348
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Tatsuo Matsumoto
sponsor: International Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 2009-09-06
smtdate: 2009-09-24
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2009-10-06
othersmts: Attempted Xixabangma after Cho Oyu
campsites: BC(06/09,4900m),ABC(10/09,5700m),C1(15/09,6400m),C2(22/09,7150m),C3(23/09,7500m),Smt(24/09)
agency: Adventure Extreme
routememo:
  Matsumoto and Dorje left C3 at 11:00 pm (NST) on 23 September to go to the top. They reached the summit at 6:00 am on the 24th and saw Everest. They descended to C2 at 3:00 pm.

  They went to C1 on the 25th and ABC on the 26th. Now they had to wait for the yaks to arrive at ABC to take them and their baggage; they finally left ABC on 7 October, then went through BC to Tingri on their way to Xixabangma.

  Matsumoto used two bottles of oxygen climbing from C3 to the summit and back to C3. Dorje used none.

  They attempted to climb Xixabangma, but did not reach the summit.

  Sherpa:
    Dorje Sherpa, 22/6/70, Dimbil, Tapting-9, Lhotse X1, Makalu X1


expid: CHOY09349
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Koichi Oyama
sponsor: Saitama Climbing Mt. Cho Oyu Project Team 2009
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2009-09-14
smtdate: 2009-09-27
smttime: 0604
termdate: 2009-09-30
campsites: BC(14/09,4800m),ABC(17/09,5600m),C1(21/09,6400m),C2(26/09,7200m),Smt(27/09)
agency: Numbur Himal Treks
routememo:
  Kazama, Oyama, Nima Gyalzen and Pemba Gyalzen left C2 on 26 Sept at 22:00 hours NST. They reached summit at 06:04 hours on 27 Sept, descended to C1 at 14:30 hours. Next day descended to ABC. The team returned to Kathmandu on 1 Oct and left on 3 Oct.

  Sherpas:
    Nima Gyalzen Sherpa, 9/8/85 (25/4/2042), Beding, Gaurishankar,
      Everest in 2005, 2007, 2008, 2009. Cho Oyu in 2007
    Pemba Gyalzen Sherpa, 17/3/72 (4/12/2028), Beding, Gaurishankar-1,
      Everest 2000, 2005, 2007, Xixabangma X2


expid: CHOY09350
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge (to 7100m)
route2: NW side
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Leopold Sulovsky
sponsor: Expedice Cho Oyu 2009
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2009-09-02
smtdate: 2009-09-19
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2009-09-25
agency: Nepal Trans Himalayan Explorer
campsites:
  SWR.BC(02/09,4700m),BC(07/09,5700m),ABC(11/09,6150m),C1(18/09,7000m),xxx(19/09,7100m); NWR.BC(28/09,5700m),C1(29/09,6400m),C2(30/09,7200m),Smt(01/10)

routememo:
  SW Ridge route (left side):

  Bortel and Marek started putting fix ropes about 1000m up to 710 m on 19 September. There is a most difficult part about 100m up from 7100m. Then started snowfall for four hours. Bortel and Marek descended to C1. Next day 20 September, they went down to BC, their C1 collapsed by avalanche on 20 September. Weather was bad and there was not sign of improving. They were running out of time. The expedition decided switch their climb to normal route instead of waiting to try the planned SW Ridge.


  NW side (normal route):

  Approach: from SW Ridge to northwest side BC

  Bortel, Lukas, Luptak, Marek and Sulovsky started from C2 at 3:30 am NST of 1 Dec. Marek and Sulovsky reached summit at 2 pm. Bortel reached summit at about 2:15 pm. Luptak reached summit at 2:45 pm. They stayed on summit about one hour then descended to C2 at 6 pm. Slept at C2 next day to BC. Lukas turned around from around 7300m due to his crampon problem. The summit day weather was beautiful, nice view, no wind. After 5 pm then started snowing a little. Bortel, Luptak and Marek started cycling from Kodari and arrived in Kathmandu on 7 Oct. Lukas and Sulovsky returned to Kathmandu on 8 Oct by bus.


expid: CHOY09351
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Javi Chicon
sponsor: Javi's Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2009-09-03
smtdate: 2009-09-22
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2009-09-27
campsites: BC(03/09,5000m),ABC(06/09,5700m),C1(10/09,6400m),C2(21/09,7100m),Smt(22/09)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Chicon left C2 at 00:30 hours of 22 Sept, reached summit at 4:30 pm, stayed on summit for about 20 minutes, descended to C2 where he arrived at 10:30 pm, slept at C2. On 23 Sept descended to ABC. Summit day weather was very good. He had very good view of Everest, Lhotse and other mountains. Snow conditions were not good and it was a hard walk. There were only four climbers on the summit including Chicon, Eva, Roberto and Salinas (all Spanish). 

  Chicon returned to Kathmandu on 28 September and plans to leave on 2 October. 

  Gonzalez's high point was 7800m on 28 September.


expid: CHOY09352
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Patrick Artola
sponsor: Frenchman on Cho Oyu
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2009-09-14
smtdate: 2009-09-27
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2009-09-30
campsites: BC(14/09,4800m),ABC(17/09,5600m),C1(21/09,6400m),C2(26/09,7200m),Smt(27/09)
agency: Numbur Himal Treks
routememo:
  Artola and Dawa started their summit push at abut 11 pm NST on 26 September. They reached summit at around 7 am on 27 Sept, stayed on summit for about 40 minutes, descended to C2 at about 4 pm. Next day to BC, the team returned to Kathmandu on 1 Oct. 

  Artola left Kathmandu on 18 or 19 Oct.

  Sherpa:
    Dawa Gyalje/Dawa Galje, 14/3/80 (1/12/2036), Beding, Everest X4


expid: CHOY09353
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: Australia
leaders: Patrick Hollingworth
sponsor: Independent Australian Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: By road from Kathmandu
bcdate: 2009-09-05
smtdate: 2009-09-29
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2009-10-01
campsites: BC(05/09,4800m),ABC(07/09,5550m),C1(11/09,6400m),C2(17/09,7050m),C3(28/09,7550m),Smt(29/09)
agency: Himalayan Ascent
routememo:
  The team started from C3 at midnight. The weather was calm with low clouds. Straightforward climb. Two Italians and an Austrian were about one hour behind them. They stayed about half an hour on the summit an descended to C2, where they arrived at 6 pm (Nepali Time). The next day they descended to ABC.

  Rope fixing: Lhakpa Sherpa refixed about 10m of the rope on the ice cliff between C1 and C2.

  Oxygen: From C3 to summit to 7050m by Hollingworth; none by Lhakpa.

  He did not know where Lhakpa Sherpa was from, but he told me that Lhakpa Sherpa had climbed Cho Oyu in 2008 (I guess in autumn) and he rescued the Sultan of Oman from the south of summit of Everest (also in 2008 spring).


expid: CHOY09354
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: Canada
leaders: Sebastien Audy
sponsor: Cho Oyu-Shishapangma 2009 Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2009-09-06
smtdate: 2009-09-24
smttime: 0704
termdate: 2009-09-29
campsites: BC(06/09,5400m),ABC(11/09,6000m),C1(14/09,6500m),C2(17/09,7200m),Smt(24/09)
accidents: Audy felt dizziness at 7400m on his way up
agency: Nima Gombu Sherpa (freelancer)
routememo:
  BC at CBC/midcamp on 10 Sept at 5800m.

  Leclerc and Tshering Dorje Sherpa left C2 at 11 pm NST on 23 Sept, reached to top at 7:04 am NST on 24 Sept, stayed on summit between 30 to 40 minutues, then descended together to C1. Leclerc stayed in C1; Tshering continued to ABC. Next day Leclerc went down to ABC. 

  Tshering and Nima Gombu started from ABC on 27 Sept for summit bid. Audy was in C1 who joined Tshering Dorje and Nima Gombu and started between 8-9 pm NST. Tshering was replacing Pemba Nuru who got sick in ABC and was supposed to climb with Lovoll (Langeland Team). When Audy reached at 7400m he felt dizziness and decided to go down to C2. Audy and Nima Gombu went down to C2. Next day to ABC. 

  Audy team returned to Kathmandu on 2 Oct and left on 4 Oct or 5 Oct.

  Sherpa:
    Tshering Dorje/Chhiring Dorje, 3/3/89 (20/11/2045), Beding, Everest X2


expid: CHOY09355
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: Norway
leaders: Henrik Langeland
sponsor: Ski Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2009-09-06
smtdate: 2009-09-28
smttime: 0804
termdate: 2009-10-02
campsites: BC(06/09,5400m),ABC(11/09,6000m),C1(14/09,6500m),C2(17/09,7200m),Smt(28/09)
accidents: Langeland eyes problem in C2; Valseth got chest infection in CBC
agency: Nima Gombu Sherpa (freelancer)
routememo:
  On 27 Sept. Lovoll, Steinar, Chhiti and Tshering started from C2 at 11:20 pm NST for the summit. They reached to the top at 8:04 am on 28 Sept, stayed on summit between 15-20 minutes, then descended to C2 where they reahced at 12 noon. Tshering went down to C1. Next day all descended to ABC. Lovoll and Steinar skied down from C2 to C1 on 29 Sept. The summit day weather was clear and good. They had nice view of Everest. 

  Tshering Dorje who summited on 24 Sept with Leclerc (Audy's team) had to go up again to replace Pemba Nuru who got sick in ABC and he was supposed to climb with Langeland team. Tshering had double summit. 

  Langeland got eyes problem in C2 and spend the nights (27-28 Sept) there. He did not try again to go for the summit. Another member Valseth got chest infection in CBC and left the expedition team on 10 Sept. 

  The Langeland team returned to Kathmandu on 2nd Oct and left on 4 Oct or 5 Oct.

  Sherpas:
    Chhiti Thinduk Bhote, 25/8/1981 (9/5/2038), Hatiya-3
    Tshering Dorje/Chhiring Dorje, 3/3/1989 (20/11/2045), Beding, Everest X2


expid: CHOY09356
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: Norway
leaders: Therese Sjursen
sponsor: Norwegian woman on Cho Oyu
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2009-09-06
smtdate: 2009-09-24
smttime: 0704
termdate: 2009-09-29
campsites: BC(06/09,5400m),ABC(11/09,6000m),C1(14/09,6500m),C2(17/09,7200m),Smt(24/09)
agency: Nima Gombu Sherpa (freelancer)
routememo:
  Sjursen and Pasang left C2 at 11 pm NST on 23 Sept for the summit. They reached summit at 7:04 am on 24 Sept, stayed on summit about 20 minutes, then descended to C1 where they reached at 3 pm. Next day went down to ABC. The weather on the summit day was clear. They had good view of Everest. About 40 climbers summited on that day. 

  Sjursen returned to Kathmandu probably on 27 Sept and may have left on 28 or 29 Sept.

  Hired:
    Pasang Bhote, 19/5/1986 (5/2/2043), Chepuwa-1, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X1


expid: CHOY09357
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Marty Schmidt
sponsor: Schmidt & Maloney-Slow & Easy to Cho Oyu
countries: USA
approach: By road to BC
bcdate: 2009-09-03
smtdate: 2009-09-24
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2009-09-28
campsites: BC(03/09,3700m),ABC(06/09,5600m),C1(12/09,6400m),C2(19/09,7000m),C3(23/09,7400m),Smt(24/09)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Scmidt & Maloney = Slow & Steady to Cho Oyu

  The two members climbing policy is in the team's name: slow and steady. Marty's client, Cliff Maloney, was nearly 72 years old.

  They spent three nights in BC, took two days to trek to ABC, spent two nights in ABC, bivouacked at C1 site the night of 8 September, but the next day, the 9th, went back to ABC and rested there on the 10th. On the 11th they climbed to and bivouacked at 6000m, went up on the 12th to C1 for just one night, then down to ABC to rest again.

  They began their slow push for the summit on 16 September, when they returned to C1. On the 17th, they went up to bivouac at C1.5 at 6700m, Schmidt's bivvy site just above the icefall. They made C2 at 7000m on the 19th. That day Schmidt climbed to C3's site to deposit C3's tent, etc., a supply of oxygen for Maloney and bivy gear. Both members slept in C2 for the night, then down to C1 on the 20th and rested there on the 21st; Schmidt believed it was wise not to go all the way down to ABC, and this gave Maloney a good rest before going for the top.

  On the 22nd they returned to C2, then occupied C3 on the 23rd, and slept there from 4;00 pm to 12:00 midnight, (Nepali time), when they got up for their final climb to the summit. They left the camp at 2:00 am on 24 September and were on the top at 9:30 am with Maloney leading all the way.

  Oxygen: Schmidt used none. But it was used by Maloney on their final climb to the top; he climbed on it from C2 to C3, slept on it in C3, used it on their summit day to the top and back to and in C3, which they reached at 4:00 pm. He continued to use it during the descent to C2 on the 25th, that night in C2 and on the 26th, when he died at 10:15 am. Doctors in New York concluded that a blood clot in the brain was the cause of his death.

  Schmidt escorted Maloney's body all the way to his home town, New York City. Schmidt left BC on 28 September; a large landslide blocked the road to Zhangmu and held up other team's departures, but the Chinese army helped Schmidt over the debris and carried the body with him (but not their baggage, which had to be left behind at BC). Schmidt reached Kathmandu on the 29th and left for New York with the body the next day.

  Maloney was the husband of a Democratic member of the U.S House of Representatives from New York City; Mrs Hillary Rodham Clinton was a US senator from New York State before she became Secretary of State in 2008. Her request for speedy repatriation of Maloney's body presumably helped to get it home from Tibet-China through Nepal quickly.


expid: DHA109301
peakid: DHA1
year: 2009
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Carlalberto Cimenti
sponsor: Clmenti Dhaulagiri Expedition 2009
bcdate: 2009-09-19
smtdate: 2009-10-04
termdate: 2009-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(19/09,4630m),C1(24/09,5800m),C2(24/09,5800m),C2(03/10,6600m),xxx(04/10,6800m)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  C1 at NE Col
  C2 at start of NE Ridge.

  Cimenti Dhaulagiri Expedition 2009

  On 4 October, the two climbers went up from C2 to 6800m, where they deposited gear, and then returned to BC to rest for two days. This turned out to be their highest point.

  Now the weather turned bad: on their first day in camp, it rained and next day snow fell and continued to fall daily. Strong wind came up, and it was foggy. They were stuck in BC.

  Finally on the 10th, they were able to return to C1. Here they found their tent completely smashed and unusable, but they could recover the gear inside it, and they sheltered in a nearby snow cave.

  On the 11th they went up towards C2, but the snowfall and strong wind returned, and they turned back at 6150m and went back to the C1 snow cave.

  On the 12th they left the snow cave at 2:00 am and at 7:00 am Cimenti arrived at the site of C2; Riba came an hour later. They dug in the deep snow for their tent for four hours but could find no trace of it, and at 11:30 am snow began falling again. They decided they had to abandon the climb because they had no more equipment left with which to continue. Cimenti descended all the way to BC at 2:15 that afternoon, while Riba stayed an extra night in the snow cave and joined Cimenti in BC at noon the next day, 13 October.

  The two members had climbed together all the time except on their final descents to BC.

  They fixed 200m of rope on 21 September between BC and C1 on the rock wall called the Eiger. When they went up this way again after the heavy snowfall, their rope was buried, but they didn't need it to climb a snow-covered wall.


expid: DHA109302
peakid: DHA1
year: 2009
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Chile
leaders: Andres Guzman
sponsor: Lippi Dhaulagiri Expedition 2009
approach: Pokhara->Beni->Tatopani->Marpha->open camp->Hidden Valley
bcdate: 2009-09-20
smtdate: 2009-10-01
termdate: 2009-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6650m due to bad weather, especially fresh snow
campsites: BC(20/09,4700m),ABC(24/09,5500m),C1(25/09,5800m),C2(01/10,6650m),xxx(01/10,6650m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Fica and Guzman reached C2 on 1 Oct, but could not go to C3, and descended to BC due to strong wind and bad snow conditions. On 4 Oct an avalanche destroyed their ABC and lost their climbing gears. Fica and Guzman went up to C2 again on 15 Oct to retrieve their cache but it was not possible to locate due to heavy snow. 

  Fica said that they worked very hard on the mountain but the dangerous snow conditions and bad weather compelled them to give up the expedition. The team returned to Kathmandu on 23 Oct.


expid: EVER09301
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: N Col-NE Ridge (to 7500m)
route2: N Face (to 7200m)
nation: Spain
leaders: Juan Vallejo
sponsor: Spaniards on Cho Oyu
bcdate: 2009-09-05
smtdate: 2009-09-18
termdate: 2009-10-10
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to extremely strong wind
campsites: BC(05/09,5500m),xxx(18/09,7500m),NE Ridge(25/09,7500m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  After the team had arrived at ABC on the Rongbuk Glacier on 5 September, they spent ten days looking at the possible lines of ascent on the North Face into and up the Japanese and Couloirs. Then, before attempting the face, the three climbing members, Inurrategi, Vallejo and Zabalza, went to acclimatize on the normal route and bivouacked at the normal ABC site at 6400m on the 16th of September. On the 17th they bivouacked at the North Col at 7100m, on the 18th at 7500m, still on the normal route, then down to the normal ABC site to bivouac again at 6400m. Now their acclimatization phase was over, and they returned to their North Face base at 5500m on the 20th.

  On 24 September they moved up to 6200m at the bottom of the North Face. The route was in very good condition after having been cleared by wind. Next day, the 25th, they went up the face to 7200m. At 1:00 am (NST) on 26 September a small avalanche brushed their tent and 20 minutes later it was followed by a large avalanche which buried the tent. They emerged unscathed and, using their experience, immediately rappelled down 100m to shelter below overhanging rock at 100m. From there they descended later that to their base.

  They waited for better weather. But snow began to fall and extremely strong wind came up: there was not much snowfall, but "I have never seen such strong wind," Vallejo said. It blew from the west at more than 100 km/hr, and the temperature now was a very cold minus 10 degrees Celsius inside their tent.

  Weather reports said the strong jet stream wind would continue. They decided on 10 October to give up, and they left the mountain the same day.

  Olasagasti, their base camp manager, never went above it. He did, however, go below: when the team arrived at their base on 5 September, he had a bad case of cerebral edema. He was taken down to Chinese BC and to the nearby village of Tashigaon, and stayed there for three days, then returned to the team's base. He had fully recovered.


expid: EVER09302
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Harbhajan Singh
sponsor: First Indian Mountaineering & Skiing Expedition to Mt. Everest
bcdate: 2009-09-02
smtdate: 2009-10-01
termdate: 2009-10-06
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to extremely deep snow
campsites: BC(02/09),C1(16/09,6000m),C2(22/09,6300m),C3(30/09,7000m),xxx(01/10,7200m)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  C1 storage only (never slept there)
  C3 storage only (never slept there).

  The expedition never reached the South Col because of continous snowfall. Above C3 at 7000m, four feet of snow accumulated. No camp was pitched at the normal C1 site at the to of the Icefall and under the SW Face, and the C3 site at 7000m, on the west face of Lhotse was used for storing supplies only (never slept in) because of dangerous avalanching. On 14 September huge avalanches came down from Lhotse and Nuptse into the Western Cwm, down the Cwm and the Icefall to BC. Climbers in the Icefall had a "miraculous escape," but no one was hurt and tents at BC were undamaged.

  The expedition's high point at 7200m was reached on 1 October at 9:00 am by climbers from C2 at 6300m. They were members Baghu, Gurung, Jagmat Namgyal, Napishu, Ram, Sherpa and Shimray with Sherpas Lhakpa Tenji, Mingma Temba, Na Dorje, Ngima Dorje and Ongda Gyalzen. They retreated from the very deep snow and returned to C2 at about 12:00 noon.

  The seven members and six Sherpas stayed in C2 until 4 October for the official decision to end the climb to be issued from New Delhi by the Director General of Police. But the team themselves had actually decided on 1 October to abandon the climb.

  Fixed rope: about 3500m all the way from BC to high point.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Tenji, 21/9/73 (5/6/2030), Makalu-9, Sankhuwasabha, no 8000ers
    Mingma Temba, 7/9/83 (22/5/2040), Makalu-9, Sankhuwasabha, no 8000ers
    Nga Dorje, 24/12/75 (9/9/2032), Makalu-9, Sankhuwasabha, no 8000ers
    Nima/Ngima Dorje, 29/1/83 (15/10/2039), Makalu-9, Sankhuwasabha, no 8000ers
    Ongda Gyalzen/Gyalje, 23/2/81 (Indian living in Darjeeling, but born Nepalese
      in Makalu-9, Sankhuwasabha), Everest X2


expid: EVER09303
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: N Col-N Face (Great Couloir)
nation: Japan
leaders: Nobukazu Kuriki
sponsor: Team Kuriki Everest Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2009-08-27
smtdate: 2009-09-24
termdate: 2009-09-28
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to heavy snowfall and strong wind
campsites: BC(27/08,5200m),ABC(2/09,6400m),C1(12/09,7000m),C2(23/09,7600m),xxx(24/09,7900m)
agency: Bochi Bochi Treks
routememo:
  BC at CBC/midcamp on 1 Sept at 5800m
  C1 at North Col.

  Kuriki left C2 at about 8:30 am NST on 24 Sept for higher camp. When he reached 7900m around 4 pm toward Great Couloir, started snowfall and strong wind. Then Kuriki turned around to C2 where he reached at 7:30 pm. Slept there, next day descended to ABC. 

  The Kuriki team returned to Kathmandu on 1 Oct.

  Ishii, Kodotani and Tatsuno slept at 7000m North Col from 22-25 Sept. All other members stayed in BC or ABC.


expid: GAUR09301
peakid: GAUR
year: 2009
route1: E Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Kazuya Hiraide
sponsor: Gaurishankar 7134m Expedition 2009
approach: By road via Tingri to police and army posts at Thumphug
bcdate: 2009-10-22
smtdate: 2009-11-10
termdate: 2009-11-14
termnote: Abandoned at 6850m due to impassible 500m rock wall
agency: Cosmo Treks
campsites:
  BC(22/10,4300m),ABC(05/11,4600m),C1(06/11,5500m),C2(07/11,5900m),C3(08/11,6300m),C4(09/11,6600),xxx(10/11,6850m)

routememo:
  C1 on East Face
  C2 on East Face
  High point at East Face bottom of rock band.

  The team reached their BC in Tibet by road from Kathmandu to Zhangmu to Tingri and on east to Thumphug, where there are police and army posts. From Thumphug, they trekked south-southwest to the confluence of two small rivers flowing north from Menlung Glacier and Menlung Chhu respectively, and here they pitched their BC at 4300m on 22 October northeast of the mountain.

  Their original plan had been to scale Gaurishankar via its East Face and descend via its NW Ridge. But as they trekked from Thumphug, they saw that the ridge was not suitable because of a lot of loose rock, so they decided to make their descent route on the NE Face to the North Ridge instead.

  To prepare this route, they went to the NE Face and made a camp there on 27 October at 4800m. The next day they moved up to another camp on the North Ridge at 6800m. But now they discovered that it would not be possible to continue this line because of the large number of seracs above. They returned to BC on the 30th and concluded that they would have to descend by the same line as their ascent route on the East Face.

  They left BC for the east face on 5 November and pitched ABC at 4600m at the junction of the same small river from Menlung Glacier that BC was on, plus another one west of that from the same glacier. They made C1 the next day at 5500m on the face.

  They now climbed up the East Face by a line that was leading towards the East Summit. As they moved up the face, they took their entire camp with them, leaving nothing behind at the previous campsite. They moved their camp up on three more successive days, making their fourth high camp on 9 November at 6600m.

  On 10 November they went for the summit and left the fourth camp at 8:00 am. But at 2:00 pm at 6850m, they were confronted by a 500m high vertical rock band, which was entirely bare rock with no snow or ice covering any part of it. They are snow and ice climbers, not rock climbers; they had no equipment or great talent with which to scale the rock band. They turned around here, went back to the fourth camp at 4:00 pm, and their climb was finished.

  On the 11th they descended to C1 in light snowfall, and on the 12th got back to BC in heavy snowfall. They left BC on November 14th, trekked to Thumphug, and took the jeep provided by the CTMA to Zhangmu. They were in Kathmandu the next day.


expid: HCHI09301
peakid: HCHI
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Simon Yates
sponsor: Mountain Dream Hunchi
countries: Australia
approach: Phakding->Namche->Chame->Gokyo
bcdate: 2009-10-12
smtdate: 2009-10-20
termdate: 2009-10-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to difficult route and lack to time
campsites: BC(12/10,5100m),C1(19/10,6100m),xxx(20/10,6100m)
accidents: Moir suffered from chest infection at BC
agency: Himalayan Ascent
routememo:
  Yates, Davis, Higham, Hudson, Mackenzie, Herries, Koch together with two Sherpas spent ngiht at C1. They found that the climbing route is difficult to tackle. Also, if they wanted to continue it may need more time. The team did not had enough time, so they gave up the climb. 

  Dolamore did not feel good and he left from Gokyo on 12 Oct.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa, 25/7/68 (10/4/2025), Thamku-9, Sankhuwasabha, Cho Oyu 2/10/08
    Ang Kazi, 12/5/78 (28/1/2035), Sisuwakhola-9, Makalu, Everest X2, Manaslu X1


expid: HIML09301
peakid: HIML
year: 2009
route1: W Face
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Paul de Graaf
sponsor: Dutch Himlung 2009 Sponsor Trek Expedition
ascent1: 28th
bcdate: 2009-10-01
smtdate: 2009-10-17
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2009-10-20
campsites: BC(01/10,4800m),C1(05/10,5500m),C2(19/10,6000m),C3(16/10,6400m),Smt(17/10)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  BC west-northwest of mountain on north side of glacier
  C1 at glacier
  C2 at glacier
  C3 near section of glacier.

  Between the dates on which the expedition pitched C1 and C2, 5th and 10th October, where there were three days of snowfall, which delivered one meter of snow at BC and more higher up on the mountain.

  From C1 to C2, the generally west to east route led up a steep section of the glacier involving a brief turn to the left (north). 

  The team fixed a total of 200m of rope in scattered places.

  The summit push began from C3 at 2:30 am on 17 October, when de Rybel, Terbrack, Wesseling and Sherpas Dawa and Norbu left for the top. One member, de Rybel, turned back at 7050m because he was exhausted and returned to C3 while the rest of the party gained the summit at 11:00 am. All were in BC on the 18th.

  The leader, de Graaf, had climbed to only C1's 5500m on the 5th in the establishment of the camp. He stayed there that night, descended to BC the next day, and spent the rest of the time there. He had no more strength to carry on.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Sherpa, 1/11/71, Tapting, Solu, no 8000ers
    Norbu Chhiri Sherpa, 29/5/87 (15/2/2044), Bhamti Bhandar, Ramechap, no 8000ers


expid: HIML09302
peakid: HIML
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Javier Bermejo
sponsor: Karrikiri Himalayan Expedition to Himlung
approach: Besisahar->Jagat-> Dharapani->Koto->Meta->Kaum->Phu
bcdate: 2009-09-28
smtdate: 2009-10-01
termdate: 2009-10-12
termnote: Abandoned at 5700m due to heavy snowfall
campsites: BC(28/09,4800m),C1(01/10,5700m),xxx(01/10,5700)
agency: Asian Adventure
routememo:
  Uriz, Bermejo, Casimiro, Donazar, Irureta, Labiano, Lazarobaster, Lejarza, Morales and Pico slept at C1 on 1 Oct. Snowfall started during the night; the snowfall buried tents under snow and four tents were damaged. The team descended to BC on 2 Oct. Snowfall continued for 5 days. 

  They returned to Kathmandu on 17 Oct. Casimiro, Donazar, Lejarza and Pico will leave on 24 Oct, other six members left on 20 Oct.


expid: HIML09303
peakid: HIML
year: 2009
route1: NW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Nicolas Brun
ascent1: 29th
countries: Netherlands
approach: Bhulbhule->Jagat->Dharapani->Koto->Meta->Phu
bcdate: 2009-10-13
smtdate: 2009-10-19
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2009-10-22
campsites: BC(13/10,4800m),C1(15/10,5650m),C2(18/10,6100m),Smt(19/10)
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  Bonhomme and Brun left C2 at 8 am on 19 Oct, reached summit at 2:30 pm, stayed on summit for about 5 minutes (t was windy), descended to C2 at 6 pm, slept there. Next day to BC. Bonhomme skied down to BC from top. Brun skied down from 6500m to BC. Both members had to stop skiing between 6200-6400m. Summit day weather was sunny, but windy. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 27 Oct and will leave on 5 Nov.


expid: HIML09304
peakid: HIML
year: 2009
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Wilhelm Haupt
sponsor: Diamir Himlung Expedition 2009
ascent1: 32nd
approach: Phu Khola->Phugaon
bcdate: 2009-10-17
smtdate: 2009-10-30
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2009-11-02
campsites: BC(17/10,4500m),C1(19/10,5700m),C2(21/10,6100m),C3(25/10,6350m),Smt(30/10)
agency: Multi Adventure
routememo:
  BC west-northwest of route
  C1 on glacier west-northwest of mountain
  C2 on glacier
  C3 on NW Ridge.

  The expedition mounted two summit attempts, but only the second one was successful.

  In the first one were Angelika and Klaus Baehr, Bohs, Haupt, Wehrle and Lila Bahadur Tamang. They left C3 for the summit at 7:00 am on 26 October, but there was strong wind and it was very cold. They all turned around at 7055m at 1:00 pm and were back in C3 at 5:00 pm.

  The second group consisted of Block, Klaus and Baerbel Greiner, Satvary, Axel and Britta Vorberg and Jamba Sherpa. They also left C3 for the summit at 7:00 am on 30 October; only two members and their Sherpa got to the top. 

  Satvary stopped at 6400m because the climb had become too difficult for him.

  Axel and Britta Vorberg stopped at 6500m at 1:00 pm because they thought it was now too late to continue up. They returned to C3 a little after 3:00 pm.

  Baerbel Greiner turned back at about 7000m when her fingers were getting dangerously cold; she had fallen into a crevasse at 6400m, and this probably made her uneasy about the climb. She was back in C3 at 6:00 pm.

  Only Block, Klaus Greiner and Jamba went on to the summit and arrived there at about 2:00 pm.

  All members of the second party spent the night of the 30th in C3 and everyone was back in BC on the 31st.

  Sherpas:
    Jamba Sherpa, 16/10/79 (6/30/2036), Lumsa, Tapting-7, Solu, no 8000ers
    Lila Bahadur Tamang, 15/10/66, Khimrang, Sardikhola, Kaski, Cho Oyu X1, 
      Everst X2, Makalu X1


expid: HIML09305
peakid: HIML
year: 2009
route1: W Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Duncan Chessell
sponsor: Chessell Adventure Himlung Expedition
ascent1: 33rd
countries: New Zealand, UK
bcdate: 2009-10-29
smtdate: 2009-11-06
smttime: 1700
termdate: 2009-11-10
campsites: BC(29/10,5000m),ABC(01/11,5300m),C1(03/11,5900m),C2(05/11,6250m),Smt(06/11)
accidents: Slight frostnip on the fingers of Maclachlan, Mannix & Morrow making their fingers numb
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  ABC on moraine of large Glacier southwest from BC
  C1  at North Spur of West Ridge
  C2  on the North Spur.

  The team approached the mountain from the northwest; they followed the Phu Khola past Phugaon to Phu Goth and east to BC, which they established at the normal BC site for climbers on Ratna Chuli to the north.

  From BC, they went down a moraine wall and southwest up a large unnamed glacier to ABC.

  Above C2 they moved up a steeper section of the spur at about 40 degrees and joined the normal West Ridge route, which they followed to the top.

  Two parties made bids for the summit. The first one left C2 at 8:00 am on 6 November; its members were Chessell, Mannix, Morrow and Sarah, plus three Sherpas: Dawa Chhiri, Pasang Sherpa and Lhakpa Rangdu. All of them reached the summit at 5:00 pm and all descended to C2 at 8:30 pm. They returned to ABC the next day.

  The second party was not so fortunate. Lord, Maclachlan, Yates, Densa Bhote, Doma Chhiri and Pemba Norbu left C2 early on 7 November, at 5:00 am. Lord turned back at 8:00 am, when he had reached 6400m and become exhausted; Doma Chhiri went back to C2 with him. The remaining two members and two Sherpas got to 6900m at 11:30 and they, too turned back; the members were cold and tired and didn't want to carry on. They also went back to C2 for the night. All were down in ABC on the 8th and everyone was in BC on the 9th.

  One member, Turner, never went above ABC. Every time he ate, he was nauseous (perhaps from incipient altitude sickness) and he became weak. He stayed in ABC throughout the climbing period.

  The only other health problem was slight frostnip on the fingers of Maclachlan, Mannix and Morrow, making their fingers numb.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Chhiri, aka Da Chhiri, 19/2/78, Phurte, Khumbu, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X2, 
      Lhotse X2, Makalu X1
    Densa Bhote, 4/11/81, Hungung, Farang, Makalu-Barun, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X1
    Doma Chhiri, 17/1/84, Sikli, Jubing, Solu, Everest X4
    Lhakpa Rangdu, 18/11/67, Tala Kharka, Sotang, Solu, Cho Oyu X3, Everest X5
    Pasang Sherpa, 27/4/78, Lelep-8, Taplejung, Kangch X1
    Pemba Norbu, 6/12/78, Lelep, Taplejung, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X2


expid: HIML09306
peakid: HIML
year: 2009
route1: W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Osamu Tanabe
sponsor: Shinshu University Alpine Club Peri Himal Expedition
ascent1: 26th,27th
approach: Phu Khola->Phugaon, east to BC
bcdate: 2009-09-18
smtdate: 2009-10-14
smttime: 1010
termdate: 2009-11-01
othersmts: Climbed Nemjung (NEMJ-093-01)
campsites: BC(18/09,4800m),C1(26/09,5560m),C2(13/10,6250m),Smt(14-15/10)
agency: Cosmo Treks
primid: NEMJ09301
routememo:
  BC towards east end of Pangari Glacier
  C1 on moraine on north side of glacier
  C2 on West ridge.

  The original plan was for an ascent of Himlung via its West Ridge, descent to BC by the same ridge, then ascent of Nemjung's NW Face in alpine-style with no fixed camps or fixed ropes from the same BC, and finally, again from the same BC, an attempt on the South Face of Himjung and a traverse to Himlung via Himjung's North Ridge and descent via Himlung's original, West Ridge route.

  As planned, they first went to Himlung. They arrived at their BC on 18 September and made C1 on the 26th.

  Progress in early October was halted by three days of heavy snowfall on the 5th to the 7th that buried C1 but did not do any damage, as they found out when they dug it out. They had to wait for avalanching to stop before they could move up and pitch C2, which they did on the 13th.

  The West Ridge, which they followed to the summit, was fairly steep, up to 40 degrees, covered with snow, very little ice.

  They summited in two parties. The first one, Egawa, Oki, Takizawa and Jaya Prakash Rai (their cook and porter, who wanted to climb and was told he could do so) left C2 5:50 am on 14 October, were on the summit at 10:10 am, back in C1 at 4:20 pm and BC on the 15th.

  The second party, Mr and Mrs. Hanatani and Kadoya, left C2 on the 15th at 6:15 am, summited at 12:00 noon, and returned to C2 at 9:00 pm. The next day they were again slow in descending, and at 6:00 pm it was too late and they were too tired to go all the way to C1 at 5560m, so they pitched a tent at 6100m and spent the night there. They went down to BC on the 16th.

  After their climb was finished, Egawa and Takizawa left the team while the others shifted their attention to Nemjung.

  Fujimatsu reached 5600m on 30 September, retreated to BC and stayed there: the climb was too difficult for him.

  Hired:
    Jaya Prakash Rai, 28/3/74 (15/12/2030) according to citizenship certificate,
      but 28/3/77 (15/12/2033) according to Rai, Makalu village, Makalu X1

  After having completed their climb of Himlung, on 19 October the team checked the west side of Himjung's South Face. They discovered that their proposed route from Nemjung to Himjung was too dangerous from rock fall. They were forced to abandon their idea of any traverse, and now concentrated on simply climbing Nemjung from their established BC.

  From their C2 at the bottom of the West Face at 6000m, they moved up the face just north of the West Ridge and pitched C3 on the ridge itself at 6840m on the 29th. From there on 30th October, Yasuhiro Hanatani, Kadoya, Oki and Tanabe set out for the top at 9:15 am. They were on the summit at 1:30 pm and down in C3 at 4:15 pm. They returned to BC on the 31st.

  The expedition's climbing was over.


expid: HIML09307
peakid: HIML
year: 2009
route1: A ridge on SW Face
nation: UK
leaders: Murray Campbell
sponsor: Scotland/Canada Himlung Expedition
ascent1: 31st
countries: Canada, Hungary
approach: Bhulbhule->Dharapani->Koto->Meta->Phu
bcdate: 2009-10-18
smtdate: 2009-10-27
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2009-10-29
campsites: BC(18/10,4815m),C1(20/10,5650m),C2(21/10,6200m),C3(26/10,6400m),Smt(27/10)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Campbell, Cattrall, Webber, Ang Kami, Dawa and Pemba left C3 at 7 am on 27 Oct for summit. Campbell and Dawa turned around to C3 from 7050m as Campbell suffered from backache. Cattrall got exhausted and went down to BC from 6500m with Pemba. Webber and Ang Kami and reached summit at 12 noon. They could not stay on summit for more than 2-3 minutes due to cold and strong wind. Webber and Ang Kami descended to C3, spent the night there. Next day to BC. 

  Veres climbed up to C1 on 22 Oct; he suffered from lung infection and did not try for the summit. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 3 November. Campbell and Webber will leave on 4 November. Cattrall will leave on 7 Nov and Veres will leave on 6 November.

  Fixed rope: 100m between C1->C2.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Kami Sherpa, 21/8/82 (5/5/2039), Gudel-5, Everest X2, Lhotse X1
    Dawa Syangmu Bhote, 18/8/77 (21/5/2034), Hatiya-3, Makalu-Barun, no 8000ers
    Pemba Tsering, 21/8/88 (5/5/2045), Lelep-8, no 8000ers


expid: HIML09308
peakid: HIML
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Mick Chapman
sponsor: International Himlung Expedition
ascent1: 30th
countries: Australia
approach: Bhulbhule->Jagat->Dharapani->Koto->Meta->Kyang->Phu
bcdate: 2009-10-14
smtdate: 2009-10-22
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2009-10-26
campsites: BC(14/10,4900m),C1(17/10,5680m),C2(19/10,5900m),C3(21/10,6300m),Smt(22/10)
agency: Himalayan Mountain Guides
routememo:
  Chapman, McDougall, Pasang and Lhakpa left C3 at 6:30 am on 22 Oct for summit. It was windy. After an hour of climbing McDougall started feeling cold and turned back to C3 with Pasang. Pasang got back from C3 and joined Chapman and Lhakpa on summit slope. Then Lhakpa went ahead where as Pasang and Chapman slowly proceeded towards the summit. Due to strong wind, Pasang thought that the climbing progress was too slow for himself and Chapman and Lhakpa was far ahead of them. The expected summit time was around 11 am, but they could manage to reach only 7000m at 1:30 pm. The summit looked very close but the pace they were able to move forward on the mountain could take them more than two hours. The wind was very strong, often they had to stop for wind to stop. Then they decided to turn around. Lhakpa went to the summit at 1:30 pm. He stayed on summit for about 15 minutes. He caught up to Pasang and Chapman on their way down to C3. All of the team spent night at C3. Next day all descended to BC.


  Email from Mick Chapman - 25 Feb 2010

  On summit day we were due to leave around 5 am, but due to strong winds and cold we delayed our departure till after 7:00 am. After half an hour Katrina, who was cold and moving very slowly decided to return to camp. Pasang escorted her back whilst Lhakpa and myself continued on. We moved quite quickly and at this stage the weather was cold but only light winds. Lhakpa and I began the ascent of the long summit slopes and it was around 6500m that the wind began to pick up. Our weather report for this day suggested temperatures of minus 25. The climbing surface was excellent. At around 7000m (12.00 pm) we took a break as Pasang had caught us up. It was extremely cold at this time.

  Then followed a rather bizarre situation. When I got up from the rest I swung my rucksack on and put my back out. I was in extreme pain and I decided that I could not carry on. Pasang and I turned back to camp. Lhakpa carried on to the summit. However, I was only able to move very slowly and I did not get back to Camp 3 until 8:30 pm. Much thanks to Pasang and Lhakpa (who caught us up on his return) who assisted me back.

  It was a bit of an effort to get back to base camp and trek out to Besisahar. It took a few weeks for the situation to clear up.

  I'm now officially semi-retired having left Peregrine last year. I still in Reading, UK. Katrina lives in Queensland.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Sherpa, Garima-8, Solu, 9/3/74 (26/11/2030), Everest 19/5/06
    Lhakpa Tenzi Sherpa, Lokhim-4, Solu, 4/4/75 (22/12/2031), no 8000ers


expid: JOBO09301
peakid: JOBO
year: 2009
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Stephane Schaffter
sponsor: Mountain Adventure Jobo Rinjang
countries: France, Nepal, Pakistan
bcdate: 2009-09-26
smtdate: 2009-10-22
termdate: 2009-10-25
campsites: BC(26/09,5128m),Pangbuk North(22/10,6589m)
agency: Tenzing Asian Holidays
othersmts:
  Climbed Pangbuk North (PANN-093-010 subpeak south-southwest of Jobo Rinjang on 22 Oct [ascent disputed]

routememo:
  BC south of Lunag Glacier.

  The Swiss expedition's permit was for Jobo Rinjang, but since an American had scaled its main summit, Pt 6777m on the Schneider Khumbu map, Schaffter decided to change his objective to another peak in the same range, Lunag's West Summit, 6907m, west-northwest of Pt 6777m.

  BC was established on 26 September at 5128m on grass south of Lunag Glacier and due south of their summit. Their C1 was pitched on 11 October at the bottom of the ridge that leads north towards the summit (and then turns east towards Pt 6777m).  From the 11th to the 16th, Carrard, Haeni, Schaffter, Dawa and Krishna Bahadur [Tamang] fixed 800m of rope and had made their route to 5800m on a glacier southeast of Lunag's west summit by the 16th. But there was a lot of rock fall in the area, and they decided to abandon the attempt to scale this Lunag peak.

  They now focused on an ascent of Pt 6589m [6478m on HMG-Finn map], which is south-southwest of the Lunag peaks, southwest of Jobo Rinjang's Pt 6777m and west-northwest of BC. For this climb, they pitched a new C1 south of the old C1 on the 17th. From the 17th to the 19th, they fixed 800m rope on this mountain also. They climbed 500m up a steep (60 degrees) snow couloir, then a 120-meters-high ice wall 80-degrees steep, next 80-85 degrees bare rock, and finally a snow ridge with cornices.

  On 22 October the summit party left their new C1 at 2:00 am. They were Carrard, Haeni, Schaffter, Vallot and the two Sherpas. When they reached 6150m, it was very cold and the members decided to move quickly in alpine style, leaving the Sherpas to go back to BC while the members continued to the summit, where they arrived at 2:10 pm. Schaffter went down to C1 while the three other members descended to BC; Schaffter was in BC the next day after the others had joined him at C1 to retrieve the camp's gear. [This ascent is disputed: see AAJ 88:64-71 (2014)].

  On 24 October, all the members, including Apa and Abdul Karim, plus both Sherpas, climbed Pt 5777m, which was south of their BC, via its rocky NE Ridge. The purpose of this climb was to show Apa and Abdul Karim in action for the film Schaffter was making.

  The next day, the team left BC to return to Kathmandu.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Sherpa, 7/2/78 (25/10/2034), Tashigaon, Makalu-5, no 8000ers
    Krishna Bahadur Tamang, 26/10/69 (10/6/2026) according to his citizenship
      certificate, Kanku, Everest X4


expid: KTUN09401
peakid: KTUN
year: 2009
route1: N side
nation: Japan
leaders: Shinji Sato
sponsor: Hokkaido Khatung Kang Expedition
approach: Lete->Marpha->Muktinath
bcdate: 2009-12-30
smtdate: 2010-01-04
termdate: 2010-01-11
othersmts: Climbed Thorang Peak on 12 Jan (all members except Haysaska)
campsites: BC(30/12,5200m),xxx(04/01,5600m)
accidents: Haysaska suffered from HAS: vomit, headache (on 31 Dec left BC & stayed in Jomsom)
agency: Bochi Bochi Treks
routememo:
  Matsumoto, Matsuura, Ochiai, Sato, Ueda, Man Bahadur, Bibas and Kami went up to 5600m. They found it was a very difficult climb and descended to BC.

  Then on 11 January the team moved Thorang Peak BC. Spent a night and summited it on 12 January. Same day the team reached Jomsom.

  Hired:
    Kami Sherpa, 29/6/66, Sedua, Makalu-5, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1, Makalu X1
    Bibas Gurung, 6/6/88, Hatiya-7, Makalu, Manaslu 19/5/09
    Man Bahadur Gurung, 27/4/64, Sitalpati-6, Sankhuwasabha, Dhaulagiri I X2, 
      Cho Oyu X4, Lhotse X2


expid: LANG09301
peakid: LANG
year: 2009
route1: S Face
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Tomaz Humar
sponsor: Humar Langtang Lirung Expedition
bcdate: 2009-10-08
smtdate: 2009-11-08
termdate: 2009-11-14
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to Humar's death
campsites: BC(08/10,4200m),xxx(08/11,6200m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at north side of moraine of Lirung Glacier.

  Humar died on the mountain, and the only person with him, Jagat Bahadur Limbu, was not a climber. The following information is the best available at a joint meeting with Limbu, his usual doctor, Dr. Anda Perdan, who was not in Nepal at the time of his accident but came with his girl friend, Ms. Sasa Spolar and an expert Swiss search and rescue team as soon as they learned he had been badly injured.

  Their approach march took them north to Dunche and Syabru Besi, which is on the Langtang Khola. They followed the khola east and northeast to Langtang and Singdum villages, then north to BC.

  BC was established on 8 October at 4200m on the north side moraine of what some maps call the Lirung Glacier. Jagat believes this is the usual BC site for teams climbing the normal SE Ridge route.

  On 14 October Humar and Jagat want to examine the route possibilities on the South Face. They made a camp at 4800m and the next day moved up onto the SE Ridge to 5600m to get a better view and then returned to BC, where they stayed until the 19th.

  On the 19th, they left the mountain to visit Kyangjin village. Humar wanted to mediatate, and he met with a Buddhist Lama there. They returned to BC on the 28th, but set out again, this time eastward and camped at Dakpatsen, which is north-northwest of Tsergo Ri, on the 30th. The next day, Humar climbed a small peak north of Dakpatsen. They were back in BC on 1 November.

  Now Humar turned his attention back to Langtang Lirung. On the 5th, they returned to their 14th October camp site at 4800m on the South Face. On the 7th, Humar alone started up a wide couloir leading leftwards and then diagonally up towards the SE Ridge, and bivouacked there at 6100m. The weather forecast predicted strong wind.

  Humar's movements on the 8th are unknown. On the 9th at 10:00 am he told Jagat by walkie-talkie, "I'm here at 6300m and not possible (to continue the climb). I come down." At 9:00 pm, he spoke again to Jagat, who understood him to say that he had broken his leg and his back. Meanwhile at 6:00 pm Nepal time he told his girl friend, Sasa Spolar, by satellite phone, "I have had an accident. I'm dying."

  At 10:00 am the next day, 10 November, he spoke once more to Jagat and simply said "this is my last call" and switched off (for the walkie-talkie broke the connection?).

  On the 10th, his trekking agency, Asian Trekking, had sent a party of Sherpas in a helicopter to rescue him. They started up from BC immediately, and on the 11th reached 6234m. But they found no trace of Humar.

  On the 13th, a Swiss search-and-rescue team arrived from Europe. They were led by the Chief rescue officer of Heli Zermatt Co., Bruno Zelk; the others were a rescue pilot, Robert Andenmatten, and the climber Simon Anthamatten, who had just returned home from his alpine-style ascent of Khumbu's Pasang Lhamu Peak in late October.

  On the 14th they flew in a Nepalese piloted helicopter to scan the Langtang Lirung, and they spotted him. The helicopter immediately landed, arranged a rope from which Simon would hang from the helicopter and tie Humar onto it. The technique worked and they flew Humar directly to Kathmandu.

  Humar was now dead, literally frozen stiff. He had been plucked from the south side of the SW Ridge at about 6100m. The camera in his pocket showed an extremely steep wide couloir in both directions, up and down.

  Dr. Perdan said in his body's frozen condition, it was impossible to tell whether he had, in fact, broken any bones, and the Nepalese doctors who perform autopsies said they were incapable of examining such a body, but his clothing and the camera and other gadgets in his pockets were undamaged. She speculated that he had managed to get himself down 200m to where he was found and then froze to death there.

  Humar's body was cremated in Kathmandu and his ashes scattered over the Langtang Lirung BC site.

  Hired:
    Jagat Bahadur Limbu, 29/1/76 (15/1/2032), Anikhibhui-4, Sankhuwasabha


  Simon Anthamatten by telephone to Christine Kopp (email 20 Jan 2010)

  He said, the way they found Tomaz's body was the strangest thing he has ever experienced: no harness, no crampons, no ropes, no backpack. To him, it was not clear at all what had happened before his death. I wondered whether Tomaz had left his gear somewhere else or whether, a little bit more crazy than other, he just didn't have it along.


expid: LHOT09301
peakid: LHOT
year: 2009
route1: S Face (Russian 1990 rte)
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Hyung-Seob
sponsor: 2009 Lhotse South Face Expedition
bcdate: 2009-09-07
smtdate: 2009-11-05
termdate: 2009-11-08
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to bad weather (strong winds and cold)
campsites: BC(07/09,5200m),ABC(14/09,5100m),C1(15/09,5900m),C2(10/10,6500m),C3(25/10,7100m),xxx(05/11,7600m)
agency: NE-KO Treks
routememo:
  BC  on west side of Lhotse Glacier
  ABC on west side of Lhotse Glacier
  C1  on South Face
  C2  on South Face
  C3  on South Face.

  The expedition's progress was severely hampered in the last half of September into early October by heavy snowfall, and it came to a halt in early November partly because of fierce winds.

  They followed the direct route pioneered by Russians in 1990. "It was very long and very difficult technically," Kim Nam-Il said. For example, the route between C1 and C2 was a long one, although C2 was only 600m higher than C1, and it was difficult to find a campsite on the face here. Their original plan was to place C1 at 6000m and C2 1000m higher, but this was impossible.

  The team's high point at 7600m was reached on 5 November; that day it was decided to abandon the effort. By now it was very cold at minus 40-50 degrees Celcius, the wind was very strong, and from mid-October there were dangerous rock falls. Four members and one Sherpa were struck by falling rock:

    Lhakpa Tshering's arm was broken, and he left on 23 October.
    Cha's arm was also hit, but only badly bruised.
    Kang and Kim Suk-Woo were hit in the ribs; Kim's rib was broken on 
      15 October and he left on the 27th; Kang was bruised.
    Kim Hyun-Jung was hit on the side of his forehead, which was bruised,
       but no bones broken.

  Their original plan called for the expedition to separate into two groups of climbers, one to ascend the South Face and the others to go up the normal West Face route, paving the way for the South Face summiters to descend an easier line. But the climbers for the West Face were to begin their ascent only after C3 had been set up on the south side. It never was, and no attempt was made from the west.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Tshering, 15/6/75 (1/3/2032), Khumjung, Annapurna I X1, Cho Oyu X1, 
      Everest X4, Manaslu X2
    Bir Kazi Tamang, 10/12/78 (25/8/2035), Gorakhami-4, Solu
    Pasang Namgyal, 25/11/72, Khumjung, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X2, Lhotse X1


expid: LOBW09401
peakid: LOBW
year: 2009
route1: N Face
nation: UK
leaders: Andrew Parkin, Victor Saunders
sponsor: Khumbu Winter Expedition
approach: See route details
bcdate: 2009-12-25
smtdate: 2010-01-04
termdate: 2010-01-06
campsites: BC(25/12,4930m),ABC(01/01,5250m),Biv(03/01,5500m),xxx(04/01,5600m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  at Lobuche village
  ABC at Changri Nup Glacier.

  Parkin and Saunders trekked from Lukla via Pangboche and Pheriche to Dughla village, where they arrived at 22 December. They intended to climb the SW Face of the North Summit of Cholatse (pt 5939 on the Schneider map). But when they looked at the face from Dughla, they saw that it was entiredly bare rock, whereas they had planned to climb on ice. They abandoned the idea of climbing Cholatse, for which they had a permit.

  They turned their attention to the North Face of Lobuche West, a so-called trekking peak, for which they did not have a permit. They believed that they were the first climbers to attempt this face.

  They trekked north from Dughla to Lobuche village, where they made their base in a lodge on 25 December, and continued nearly as far as Gorak Shep to turn west on the Changri Nup Glacier for access to their face. They made a camp there at 5250m; they ferried loads to the camp site and finally occupied the camp on 1 January. While he was carrying a load, Parkin slipped on the moraine, hurt the base of his spine, and his spine was painful all the way up to his neck.

  Nevertheless Parkin carried on. They climbed the right side of the North Face up a steep (80 degrees) frozen waterfall onto the plateau of a hanging glacier and bivouacked here at 5500m on 3 January. Above the icefall, the face was mixed bare rock and snow at an average steepness of 55-60 degrees to a bergschrund at 5100m.

  The next day they planned to go to the summit and returned to the bivouac, so they left their bivy gear and went for the top. They left the bivouac at 8:00 am, but turned around at 9:30 am, when they reached about 5600m. Because of his injury, Parkin was moving too slowly to get to the summit and back.

  They abandoned the climb. On the same day, 4 January, they rappelled down to their tent on the glacier and went all the way to Lobuche village.

  They believe they could have summited via their route if Parkin had been fit.


expid: MANA09301
peakid: MANA
year: 2009
route1: NE Face
nation: Mexico
leaders: Mauricio Lopez
sponsor: Mexican Manaslu Expedition
approach: Densi->Arughat->Jagat->Samagaon
bcdate: 2009-09-12
smtdate: 2009-10-03
termdate: 2009-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to bad weather and too much snow
campsites: BC(12/09,4900m),C1(18/09,5900m),C2(23/09,6400m),C3(27/09,6400m),xxx(03/10,6900m)
accidents: Lopez had breathing problem (spent two nights 3 days in Samagaon)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Couple's summit bid started on 30 Sept from BC to C1. On 2 Oct to C2, 3 Oct to C3. It was not possible to continue farther as there was waist-deep snow. On 4 Oct they descended all the way to BC. 

  Bonilla and Lopez returned to Kathmandu on 14 Oct and will leave on 20 Oct.


expid: MANA09302
peakid: MANA
year: 2009
route1: NE Face
nation: Chile
leaders: Andres Jorquera
sponsor: Chilean Manaslu Ski Expedition
approach: Samagaon
bcdate: 2009-09-05
smtdate: 2009-09-28
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2009-10-01
campsites: BC(05/09,4800m),C1(14/09,5500m),C2(25/09,6500m),C3(26/09,7400m),Smt(28/09)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  On summit day, Koller and Jorquera left C3 at 4:30 am. Rutllant was not feeling well on the day, so he decided to remain in C3, which was his high point. Weather was calm and clear. Jorquera stopped at about 8000m due to very cold feet. He stayed at the point to wait for Koller to come back from the summit. Koller spent only a few minutes on the summit and descended back to Jorquera, and even though he had carried his skies all the way up to the summit, he was too tired to ski down. He walked down to C3; however, Jorquera skied down from his high point to C3, where Ruttlant had been waiting for them.

  Even though Koller was walking, he reached C3 before Jorquera as Jorquera had stopped at one point to rest. Koller arrived at C3 at 3:45 pm and Jorquera arrived at 3:55 pm. Everyone stayed at C3 that night.

  On 29 Sept Koller descended by foot from C3 to BC. He was not feeling well and still too tired to ski down. He descended to BC that day.

  Rutllant and Jorquera left C3 at 11 am and skied from about 7000m to C1, where they arrived at 7:30 pm and stayed the night. On 30 Sept they cleared their C1, put the gear on a sledge and skied down to crampon point at about 5000m. They started skiing from C1 at 11:30 am, reached crampon point at 3 pm and arrived at BC at 5:25 pm. They left the sledge at crampon point and picked it up the following day.


expid: MANA09303
peakid: MANA
year: 2009
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Gilles Trousselier
sponsor: French Manaslu Expedition
bcdate: 2009-09-26
smtdate: 2009-09-30
termdate: 2009-10-08
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(26/09,4800m),C1(28/09,5600m),C2(30/09,6300m),xxx(30/09,6300m)
accidents: Ricaud's altitude sickness
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  One member, Ms. Anne Picaud, developed serious altitude sickness at BC and had to be evacuated to Kathmandu by helicopter from BC on 1 October. She had never moved above BC.

  After occupying C2 on 30 September in the acclimatization phase of their climb, the four remaining members returned to BC to rest for two days. They had to stay longer: it started snowing on 3 October.

  On the 4th they decided to abandon their climb because the bad weather seemed likely to continue. On the 5th they returned to C1 to clear the gear and returned to BC, while their two Sherpas remained in C1 for two days waiting to go to C2 and clear it. But the Sherpas could not move above C1, and all the gear in C2 had to be left there.

  They left BC on 8 October and trekked out via the Larkya Pass.

  Sherpas:
    Chhang Dawa, 30/7/82 (15/4/2039)?, 31/7/79 (15/4/2036)?, Nurbu Chaur, 
      Upper Walung, Makalu-9, Everest X2, Makalu, Lhotse and Cho Oyu X1 each
    Mingma Temba, 28/4/88 (1/1/2045), Makalu, Sankhuwasabha, no 8000ers


expid: MANA09304
peakid: MANA
year: 2009
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Michel Vincent
sponsor: Midi Expedition to Manaslu
bcdate: 2009-09-17
smtdate: 2009-09-26
termdate: 2009-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6850m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(17/09,4898m),C1(21/09,5700m),C2(25/09,6400m),C3(03/10,6850m),xxx(03/10,6850m)
agency: Khumbu Shangri-La Nepal
routememo:
  Only two members, plus two Sherpas, occupied C3 on 3 October.

  Abraham, who is a nurse, had turned back at 5900m on 1 October to help a stricken Slovenian climber on Davo Karnicar's team get down to BC. (Earlier she had not been acclimatizing well and had descended to Samagaon on 19 September for two days.)

  David and Philippe Delmas and Laroche went to C3's site on 26 September on an acclimatization trip and descended to BC, where they remained until they left on 3 October, then took a helicopter from Samagaon to Kathmandu on the 5th. They were no longer interested in the climb.

  Thus only Hintzy and Vincent occupied C3 on 3 October with Phu Dorje and Then Dorje Sherpa. On the 4th snow started falling, and they returned to BC. 

  The remaining members of the team left BC on the 5th, and strong wind began blowing on the 6th.

  Sherpas:
    Phu Dorje, 7/12/75, Phortse, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X1
    Thendorje/Thendu Dorje, 22/4/83, Pangboche, Everest X5, Manaslu X1


expid: MANA09305
peakid: MANA
year: 2009
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Michel Fauquet
sponsor: Derek Manaslu Expedition
countries: Canada
bcdate: 2009-09-16
smtdate: 2009-09-30
smttime: 0430
termdate: 2009-10-09
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to Mayne's feet starting to freeze and bad weather forecast
campsites: BC(16/09,4893m),C1(18/09,5700m),C2(21/09,6400m),C3(28/09,6850m),C4(29/09,7400m),xxx(30/09,7700m)
agency: Khumbu Shangri-La Nepal
routememo:
  The team arrived at Samagaon by helicopter on 9 September and then trekked in the area before going to BC on the 16th.

  The team went first to C3 site on 23 September and returned to BC the same day to rest.

  They returned to C2 from BC on 27 September, went up to C3 and stayed there on the 28th. On the 29th they made C4.

  On the 30th they left C4 at 1:00 am in their summit push, but at 4:30 am at 7700m, Mayne's feet began to freeze. They retreated to BC that day. 

  They left BC the following day, 1 October, and descended to Samagaon. On the 2nd they flew by helicopter to Kathmandu.

  Sherpas:
    Mingma Tshering/Chhiring, 1975-76 (2032), Khunde
    Nima Kancha, 19/7/75 (3/4/2032), Namche-6


expid: MANA09306
peakid: MANA
year: 2009
route1: NE Face
nation: UK
leaders: Rob Casserley
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Manaslu Expedition 2009
countries: Australia, Canada
approach: Samagaon
bcdate: 2009-09-11
smtdate: 2009-09-28
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2009-09-30
campsites: BC(11/09,4850m),C1(13/09,5700m),C2(19/09,6400m),C3(25/09,6900m),C4(26/09,7400m),Smt(28/09)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  On 28 Sept summit team left C4 at 2:30 am. Weather clear and calm. The Chinese team had already broken part of the trail a few days earlier. Lhakpa and Thundu broke trail to the col. The summit ridge had been fixed by the Chinese. From the col it got a bit windy and cold.

  Allen, Jack, Norris, Willet, Lhakpa Thundu and Tshering Namgyal stopped at the false summit due to the queue, the exposure of the final cornice, or they were planning to ski down (like Jack and Willet).

  The rest of the team (Pitkethly, Prodlock, Sovdat, Casserley, Todd, Mellor, Nima Gyalgen, Nga Tenji and Lhakpa Wangchu had to wait for Russell Brice's Sherpa Dorje to fix the rope in order to get to the real summit. When Casserley came down the cornice he met Mallor and Todd on the bottom of it. They asked him to go back up to summit again to take a picture, so he did.

  Jack and Willet skied down from the false summit to BC. They took their skies of 200m below C2 due to a white-out and walked for about 50m. They skied the rest all the way down to crampon point at 5000m. They left the summit at 8:05 am and arrived at BC at 4 pm.

  Todd, Mellor, Allen, Tshering Namgyal and Lhakpa Wangchu descended to C3, where they arrived at 5 pm. Norris, Casserley, Sovdat and Pikethly arrived at C2 at 4 pm. Proudlock to C2 arrived at 7 pm. Nima Gyalgen, Nga Tenji and Lhakpa Thundu descended to BC, where they arrived at about 7:30 am.

  On 29 Sept everybody went down to BC. People, who came from C3 arrived at 7 pm, and people, who came from C2 arrived at 1 pm.

  Trott reached C2 on 19 Sept. She stayed two nights but turned back due to a bad Achilles tendon and she felt generally ill. She stayed in BC for the remainder of the expedition.

  Fixed rope: 1000m from C1 + C2, C3 to C4.

  Oxygen:
    Members (apart from Casserley) from C3 to summit to C4.
    Casserley from C4 to false summit. He climbed up the final cornice 
      without oxygen and descended without oxygen.
    Sherpas from C4 to summit to C4.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Wangchu, Pangboche, Khumbu, 23/10/86
      Everest: Double summit in 2007, 2008 and 2009
    Nima Gyalzen, Ghat, Solu, 31/8/86 (15/05/2043)
      Everest: 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009
    Nga Tenji, Makalu-9, Nurbagaon, 28/2/80 (16/11/2036)
      Everest: 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009
    Lhakpa Thundu, Pangboche, Khumbu, 20/05/70
      Everest: 2001, 2004, double summit in 2007, Annapurna I, Cho Oyu
    Tshering Namgyal, aka Ang Namgyal, Pangboche, Khumbu, 14/5/84 (1/3/2041)
      Everest: 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009; Cho Oyu: 2006


expid: MANA09307
peakid: MANA
year: 2009
route1: NE Face
nation: UK
leaders: Phil Crampton
sponsor: Altitude Junkies Manaslu Expedition 2009
countries: Australia, Finland, USA
bcdate: 2009-09-11
smtdate: 2009-09-27
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2009-10-01
campsites: BC(11/09,4900m),C1(15/09,5800m),C2(19/09,6400m),C3(25/09,6800m),C4(26/09,7400m),Smt(27/09)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  Summit bid was made by just two members and a Sherpa: Mansikka, Watroba and Pasang Gombu Sherpa. They left C4 on 27 September at 2:00 am. Watroba and Pasang Gombu were on the top at 10:30 am and Mansikka followed at 11:00 am (they actually stopped two meters below the summit). They descended to C3 that day and were back in BC on the 28th.

  Non-summiting members:

  Faluotico got to C3 on 25 September, then ran out of energy and motivation and went all the way down to BC the next day.

  Crampton descended with Faluotico.

  Ilacqua went only as far as C1 on 15 September, failed to acclimatize, and went back to BC on the 16th.

  Savage got as high as C2 on 24 September, had no energy or motivation to continue, descended to BC the next day.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Gombu, 21/3/62, Saframa, Lokhim-9, Solu, Cho Oyu X4


expid: MANA09308
peakid: MANA
year: 2009
route1: NE Face
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Manaslu Expedition 2009
countries: Denmark, Japan, Netherlands, New Zealand, UK, USA
bcdate: 2009-08-31
smtdate: 2009-09-28
smttime: 0840
termdate: 2009-10-01
agency: Mountain Experience
campsites:
  Sherpas(31/08,4895m),Mbrs(03/09,4895m),C1(14/09,5728m),C2(20/9,6170m),C3(25,26/09,6741m),C4(27/09,7416m),Smt(28/09)

routememo:
  The expedition mounted one summit bid: on 28 September, six members and five Sherpas left C4 for the top at 4:00 am, and all were on the summit between 8:40 and 9:30 am (there was little space for all of them to stand on the summit together). They were Ballinger, De Lint and Kuraoka spent the night in C2 while all other summiting members returned to BC at 6:45-7:00 pm. De Lint and Kuraoka were back in BC on then next day.

  Oxygen was used by all members who summited: De Lint started using it from C3; all the others used it in and from C4 to the top to C2 or, like De Lint, wherever their supplies ran out before reaching there. Sherpa summiters used it from C4 to the top to C2 or whereever it ran out.

  It was necessary to use much more fixed rope this autumn than last year because there were now very many crevasses, and these had to be fixed for the Sherpas carrying loads.

  Sherpas:
    Dorje Sonam Gyalzen, 24/5/81, Phorste, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X10, Manaslu X1
    Lakpa Nuru, 1962, Phortse, Everest X3, Manaslu X1
    Nima Tshering Sherpa, 22/4/72, Phortse, Everest X2, Manaslu X1
    Nuru Gyalzen, 18/8/73, Phortse, Everest X4
    Son Dorje, 22/5/63, Phortse, Everest X7, Manaslu X1


expid: MANA09309
peakid: MANA
year: 2009
route1: NE Face
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Davo Karnicar
sponsor: Slovenian Manaslu Ski Expedition
approach: Kathmandu to Samagaon by helicopter 28 Sept
bcdate: 2009-09-29
smtdate: 2009-10-01
termdate: 2009-10-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to fatal accident
campsites: BC(29/09,4550m),C1(01/10,5700m),xxx(01/10,6000m)
accidents: Oderlap injured by falling ice
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  On 1 October, the two-member team pitched C1 at 5700m and moved on up in an acclimatization climb. From an area of a lot of seracs at 5900m, a few small blocks of ice camp down. At 11:00 am Karnicar was 150m above Oderlap, and when he looked back, he didn't see his teammate. He descended to see where Oderlap was and found him in critical condition. Oderlap did not respond to any attempt to communicate with him; blood was coming from his mouth and an ear. Apparently an ice block had gravely injured him.

  Karnicar tried to carry Oderlap to C1, but at 85 kilos (187 pounds), Oderlap was too heavy for him. Five Frenchman (led by Michel Vincent) came up to 5450m on their way to the top, and they stopped and helped carry Oderlap down to C1 at 4:00 pm; he was still alive. Karnicar's cook with five Sherpas he had recruited reached C1 with oxygen, and by 3:30 am of 2 October, they had moved Oderlap to the beginning of a glacier at 5100m, where a rescue helicopter could land.

  A helicopter came as far as BC only and immediately returned to Kathmandu. Now 12 local people came to carry him to BC at 11:00 am. Only on the next day, the 3rd, did the helicopter return, arriving at BC at 8:00 am and landing at Kathmandu airport. At 9:30 am an ambulance delivered him to Norvic hospital in the city. Doctors said he had died one and a half hours prior to this arrival at the hospital.

  Oderlap's body was being sent to his family in Slovenia.


expid: MANA09310
peakid: MANA
year: 2009
route1: NE Face
nation: China
leaders: Yang Chun-Feng
sponsor: Chinese Manaslu Expedition 2009
approach: Soti Khola->Jagat->Namrung->Syallo->Samagaon
bcdate: 2009-09-12
smtdate: 2009-09-27
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2009-09-30
campsites: BC(12/09,4850m),C1(15/09,5730m),C2(19/09,6450m),C3(26/09,7400m),Smt(27/09)
agency: Tseringma Treks
routememo:
  Fang, Ge, Li, Jing Wang, Shi Wang, Yang, Liang Zhang, Wei Zhang and ten Sherpas reached summit at 9:30 am. The team stayed on summit for about an hour. Fang descended to BC same day where he reached at 9 pm. Ge descended to C1 followed by Shi Wang at about 4:30 pm. Wei Zhang to BC at 6 pm. Rest of the members and Sherpas at C2 where they reached between 3-4 pm. Next day to BC.

  Wei Zhang left Kathmandu on 1 Oct. Rest of the members to leave on 3 Oct.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Chhiri/Dawa Tshering, 3/8/71, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X4, etc
    Lhakpa Gelu, 31/8/83 (15/5/2040), Gorakhani-1, Solu, no 8000ers
    Ongje, 22/8/83 (6/5/2040), Gaurishankar-2, Everest X2, Manaslu, Cho Oyu 26/5/06
    Lhakpa Nuru, 22/11/80 (7/8/20370), Thami, Namche-7, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X1
    Phurbu Temba, 1968-69 (2025 BS), Yilajung, Namche-9, Khumbu, Everest X2
    Kili Pemba, 15/5/80 (2/2/2037), Beding, Gaurishankar-1
    Mingma Gyalje, 14/4/86 (1/1/2043), Gaurishankar-1, Beding, Everest 19/5/07
    Nima Tenzi, 24/8/80 (8/5/2037), Beding, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2, Manaslu X1
    Dendi, 22/11/76 (7/8/2033), Gorakhani-2, Solu, Everest X2, Kangch 18/5/09
    Dawa Tenji, 31/10/75 (14/7/2032), Beding, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X2, Kang 18/5/09


expid: MANA09311
peakid: MANA
year: 2009
route1: NE Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Adrian Schuler
sponsor: Three Swiss on Manaslu
bcdate: 2009-09-09
smtdate: 2009-09-28
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2009-10-01
campsites: BC(09/09,4665m),C1(15/09,5600m),C2(22/09,6300m),C3(23/09,6740m),C4(27/09,7400m),Smt(28/09)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  Schuler was the only member to get to the summit. He was there at 10:30 am on 28 September.

  All three members reached C4 on 27 September, but Benz developed a case of incipient cerebral edema during the night. He and Luck, who went along to look after him, descended: they stopped in C3 early on the morning of the 28th; later that morning went on down to C2, where they waited for Schuler to join them, and all three returned to BC at 6:00 pm that day.

  This expedition had two trekking agencies looking after them. Russell Brice, who had his own team as well, gave them advice, and all logistics, including tents, sleeping bags, etc., plus food and kitchen staff, were provided by his agency, Mountain Experience. Their arrangements in Kathmandu were provided by Active Holidays Nepal Trekking.


  Email - Feb 1, 2010

  We took our skis up during our acclimatisation phase. On 23 Sept we started from our C1 at 6400m to the North Col at 7000m. We put up a camp there and stayed the night. On 23 Sept the three of us skied all the way down to crampon point, and we skied all the way - from 7000m all the way to crampon point at the bergschrund at about 4900m. The North Col at 7000m was the highest point for us during our acclimatization. We did not put up a camp there during our summit push. After that acclimatization we decided to push for the summit from BC without skies. The reason for this was that it would have been too exhausting to take our skis as we did not have any climbing skis. During the night on 27 Sept Benz got sick and he had to descend from 7400m and that was, of course, without skis as nobody had used skis during the summit push.


expid: MANA09312
peakid: MANA
year: 2009
route1: NE Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Mario Rizzi, Samuel Urech
sponsor: Swiss Manaslu Expedition
bcdate: 2009-09-09
smtdate: 2009-09-28
smttime: 1025
termdate: 2009-10-01
campsites: BC(09/09,4900m),C1(11/09,5730m),C2(21/09,6170m),C3(22/09,6700m),C4(27/09,7400m),Smt(28/09)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  Both members, Rizzi and Urech, plus Kusang Tenzing Sherpa, reached the summit at 10:25 am on the 28th and stopped in C2 at 6:45 pm in their descent. They returned to BC on the 29th, left BC on 1 October and trekked out via Larkya Pass.

  Sherpa:
    Kusang Tenzing Sherpa, 16/5/86, Ghunsa, Lelep-9, Taplejung, Everest X2

  This expedition had two trekking agencies, looking after them. Russell Brice, who had his own team as well, gave them advice, and all logistics, including tents, sleeping bags, etc., plus food and kitchen staff, were provided by his agency, Mountain Experience. Their arrangements in Kathmandu and their climbing Sherpa were provided by Active Holidays Nepal Trekking.


expid: MANA09313
peakid: MANA
year: 2009
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Christophe Ludot
sponsor: Frenchman on Manaslu
approach: Arughat, 9 days to Samagaon
bcdate: 2009-09-14
smtdate: 2009-09-17
termdate: 2009-09-22
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to Ludot's neck problem
campsites: BC(14/09,5100m),xxx(17/09,6100m)
accidents: Neck problem (cannot raise up and move sides)
agency: Arun Treks permit
routememo:
  Ludot and Lhakpa Rangdu went up to 6100m (C1 site) on 17 Sept and returned to BC. Their plan was to go up again on 20 September. On that day they could not go up due to Ludot's neck problem. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 27 September and left on 28 September.

  Fixed rope: 25m before C1.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Rangdu Sherpa, 18/11/67, Sotang-6, Cho Oyu X3, Everest X4


expid: MERR09301
peakid: MERR
year: 2009
route1: S Face of E Ridge-E Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Frederic Dorn
sponsor: French Merra Expedition
ascent1: 4th
approach: Bus to Taplejung, N to Ghunsa Khola->Ghunsa->Kangbachen->Jannu Glacier
bcdate: 2009-10-30
smtdate: 2009-11-03
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2009-11-04
campsites: BC(30/10,4771m),C1(01/11,5286m),C2(2/11,5981m),Smt(03/11)
agency: Trinetra Adventure
routememo:
  BC at moraine on northern side of Jannu Glacier
  C1 on rock on very day Merra Glacier area
  C2 on Merra Glacier.

  The climbing route followed by Dorn was essentially the same as that of the French autumn 2007 team led by Vincent Palandre: South Face of the central (main) summit's East Ridge to the East Ridge.

  All the climbing was done by only Dorn and Pasang Phutar; when they reached BC, Prudhomme had a bad headache and congested nasal passages making breathing difficult. As Dorn and Pasang Phutar set off on their climb on 1 November, she retreated to Kangbachen village, where their trekking guide, porters and cook were camped.

  The climbers found it difficult to find a good site for C2 on the Merra Glacier, which had many crevasses and where the snow was very soft.

  Dorn and Pasang Phutar left C2 for the top at 4:54 am on 3 November, summited at 8:00 am, and were back in C2 at 11:30 am. On this day's climb, again the snow was very soft, but the weather was excellent: no wind, no clouds, and not very cold (minus 10 degrees Celcius at the start, but warm sunshine later, and only light gloves necessary on the summit).

  On 4 November, Dorn and Pasang Phutar descended through BC all the way to Kangbachen village to join the rest of the party who camped there. They trekked back to Taplejung and took a bus to Kathmandu.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Phutar/Futar, 8/7/61, Yaphu, Yaphu-9, Makalu-Barun, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X1


expid: NEMJ09301
peakid: NEMJ
year: 2009
route1: NW Face-W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Osamu Tanabe
sponsor: Shinshu University Alpine Club Peri Himal Expedition to Nemjung
ascent1: 2nd
bcdate: 2009-09-18
smtdate: 2009-10-30
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2009-11-01
othersmts: Climbed Himlung (HIML-093-06)
campsites: BC(18/09,4800m),C1(27/10,5300m),C2(28/10,6000m),C3(29/10,6840m),Smt(30/10)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  After having completed their climb of Himlung, on 19 October the team checked the west side of Himjung's South Face. They discovered that their proposed route from Nemjung to Himjung was too dangerous from rock fall. They were forced to abandon their idea of any traverse, and now concentrated on simply climbing Nemjung from their established BC.

  From their C2 at the bottom of the West Face at 6000m, they moved up the face just north of the West Ridge and pitched C3 on the ridge itself at 6840m on the 29th. From there on 30th October, Yasuhiro Hanatani, Kadoya, Oki and Tanabe set out for the top at 9:15 am. They were on the summit at 1:30 pm and down in C3 at 4:15 pm. They returned to BC on the 31st.

  The expedition's climbing was over.


expid: NEMJ09302
peakid: NEMJ
year: 2009
route1: S Face
nation: France
leaders: Yannick Graziani, Christian Trommsdorff
sponsor: French Nemjung Expedition
bcdate: 2009-10-09
smtdate: 2009-10-15
termdate: 2009-10-19
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to Trommsdorff's weakness
agency: None
campsites:
  BC(09/10,4400m),Biv1(11/10,5300m),Biv2(12/10,5800m),Biv3(13/10,6200m),C4(14/10,6500m),xxx(15/10,7000m)

routememo:
  BC   at bottom of South Face
  Biv1 on South Face
  Biv2 on South Face
  High point at top of South Face.

  Email from Christian Trommsdorff - Nov 10, 2009

  Nemjung South Face, Yannick Graziani & Christian Trommsdorff - Oct 11-16, 2009

  A route of around 2400m, 45 pitches (+some simu-climbing, maybe 25% of the route), ED +, mostly ice/mixed and snow, a few pitches with just rock. Many very delicate snow ridges/walls/flutes to climb or traverse, fantastic gullies and mixed climbing, many vertical sections; a very committing route, complicated abseils during the descent and also we had to climb from a gully onto the base of the first tower (which we avoided by a 60m abseil on the way up).

  Bottom of the face 4750m, bivys at around 5300m, 5800m, 6200m, 6500m. We reached the top of the South Face at an altitude of about 7000m.

  We climbed the entire route free.

  Gear: 2x60 twin ropes, 4 ice screws (not enough!!!), 6 friends, a few nuts, 10 pitons (we dropped 4), and a few slings... We managed to put up what we believe is a new route on the South Face of Nemjung.

  A great 6-day climb of the South Spur, maybe the most beautiful we have ever done, certainly the most continously steep, sustained and constantly exposed, although no pitches were as hard as the hardest ones on Chomolonzo or Pumori. Always uncertainty about the key passages; on the last day there was a miraculous hole in the very corniced ridge to cross to the other side.

  We reached the top of the South Face on Oct 15th at 2:15 pm, but not the top of Nemjung; another bivy would have been necessary to follow the the fairly flat and long ridge to the summit, but the lower wind window was closing in on us, and I felt too weak to keep going that day which would have meant a long descent in the dark, so we turned around. The previous day I had been hit on the helmet by big chunk of ice and I felt in a kind of shocked state, although I didn't lose consciousness.

  Later on the long way down I would have several moments of "absence," in particular when dropping Yannick's backpack. (2 days after the climb he went up to a bergschrund and found the pack, but the camera had dropped out ... so we have only my photos and lost his 2 hours of film!!!)...

  No objective dangers in stable conditions except for an easy 1-minute traverse of a couloir below the big serac. We waited 3 full days after the massive snow dump and started early on Oct 11th, and come back down to BC at 10 pm on Oct 16th. On the 2nd day the cold weather helped the gully behind the first tower has some mixed sections with very poor rock. On the third day the absence of strong wind probably prevented icicles falling off the 1st serac on the ridge.


expid: NUPT09301
peakid: NUPT
year: 2009
route1: N Face
nation: Russia
leaders: Alexandra Guryeva
sponsor: Austria-Nepal Nuptse Autumn 2009
approach: Phakding->Namche->Tengboche->Dingboche->Lobuche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2009-11-05
smtdate: 2009-11-12
termdate: 2009-11-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to Guryeva suffered from tonsilitis
othersmts: Climbed Pokhalde on 29 Oct (Guryeva)
campsites: BC(05/11,5300m),C1(12/11,6100m),xxx(12/11,6100m)
accidents: Guryeva's illness
agency: Himalayan Ecstasy Treks
routememo:
  The team spent a night at C1 on 12 November on the process of acclimatization. On 13 Nov the team went down to BC. The team's plan was to start its summit push on 20 November. But had to abandon due to sickness/tonsillitis of Guryeva. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 27 November and left on 1 Dec. Ms Guryeva plans to come back for Nuptse next autumn.

  Hired:
    Ang Kami Sherpa, 8/2/82 (26/10/2038), Goli-7, Solu, Everest 28/5/2008
    Anil Bhattarai, 15/5/71, Hangdewa, Taplejung, Everest and Cho Oyu 


expid: NUPT09302
peakid: NUPT
year: 2009
route1: Western Cwm
nation: UK
leaders: Ben England
sponsor: ITN Icefall Film Team
approach: Lukla->Chhukung->BC
bcdate: 2009-11-12
smtdate: 2009-11-15
termdate: 2009-11-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to fierce high winds
campsites: BC(12/11,5350m),C1(15/11,6000m),xxx(15/11,6000m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall and entrance to Western Cwm
  High point at C1.

  This was a film team from the British channel ITN filming the retreat of glaciers. From Lukla they went first to Chhukung to film Imja Lake, which has expanded from greater glacier melt, then to Everest/Nuptse BC. Their original plan was to go into the Western Cwm to film from C2, but Dawa Steven of Asian Trekking, who was advising and guiding them, convinced them a better site for filming was between C1 and C2, and this became their objective.

  But the two members who went above BC, England and Mates, were not fit. It took them 13 hours to climb from BC to C1 at the top of the Icefall and then the entrance to the Western Cwm.

  They spent one night in C1, the night of 15 November. It was a miserable night during which no one could sleep because of the fierce wind (at least 50 knots/hr), which knocked their tents. The wind, which was extremely cold, also blew out their stoves, so they cold not boil water or cook food, and they became very hungry and thirsty. It also blew ice crystals against their faces.

  The next morning, after the sun had come up and it was clear that the wind was not abating at all. Dawa Steven declared this climbing phase of the program was over and all must descend to BC immediately. The British members protested that they needed to rest in C1 for a day, but Dawa Steven was adamant that they must go down.

  The members were very slow moving down; it took them nine hours to reach BC. Their slowness gave Dawa Steven frostnipped toes; his boots were not meant for such a situation. One of the Britons had to be helped down by a Sherpa on each side of him and one short-ropping him.

  But they got there on the 16th. Dawa Steven left BC on the 17th, but the members stayed and rested there for two days. From BC, they and three Sherpas, Pemba Tenzing, Tshering Thundu and Tshering Phinjo went to Gokyo Lake for more filming before they flew from Lukla to Kathmandu on 7 December.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Steven, 11/3/84, Kathmandu, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X2, Lhotse X1
    Nawang Karsang, 26/11/67, Khumjung, Everest X2
    Pemba Tenzing, 6/1/88, Khumjung, Everest 21/5/07
    Pemba Tshering, 18/4/79, Khumjung, Everest X2, Lhotse X1
    Tshering Phinjo, 29/4/73, Khumjung, Everest 20/5/06
    Tshering Thundu, 4/10/74, Khumjung, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1
   


expid: PASA09301
peakid: PASA
year: 2009
route1: A ridge on SE Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Simon Anthamatten
sponsor: Jasamba 2009
ascent1: 7th
approach: Lukla->Thami & north to Sumna Glacier
bcdate: 2009-10-08
smtdate: 2009-10-29
smttime: 1420
termdate: 2009-11-01
campsites: BC(08/10,5200m),Biv1(26/10,5800m),Biv2(27/10,6500m),Biv3(28/10,6900m),Smt(29/10)
agency: Royal Orchid Treks
routememo:
  BC at west side Sumna Glacier due east of Nangpai Gotaya.

  Before attacking Pasang Lhamu Chuli (aka Jasamba), the team did some acclimatization climbs on two peaks northwest and north of their mountain, point 6295m & point 5820m.

  On Pasang Lhamu, they climbed their snow ridge in alpine style, the three members always together. They set out from BC at 7:00 am on 26 October made their first bivouac at 1:00 pm on the ridge at 5800m. 

  On the 27th at 6:00 am they moved up the ridge to make their second bivouac at 6500m at 2:00 pm. They took two hours more than on the previous day because there were snow mushrooms and the ridge had gotten steeper.

  On the 28the they resumed their climb of the ridge again at 6:00 am and had a long day's climb before they bivouacked at 6900. at 5:00 pm. The ridge had become much steeper and more difficult technically. Some sections were covered with ice and 90-degrees steep, there was a 200m rock wall, plus numerous cornices and mushrooms. They were very tired when they made their third bivouac.

  They pushed on. They left their last bivouac earlier than before, at 5:00 am on 29 October. An even longer day saw them gain the summit at 2:20 pm and return to their third bivy at 7:00 pm.

  They started their final descent at 6:00 am and at last were safely back in BC at 5:00 pm. They rested there a full day before heading down to Lukla and Kathmandu.


expid: PETH09301
peakid: PETH
year: 2009
route1: S Face-SW Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: David Graham
sponsor: High Hope Pethangtse
ascent1: 6th
bcdate: 2009-10-24
smtdate: 2009-10-30
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2009-11-01
campsites: BC(24/10,5300m),C1(28/10,5800m),Smt(30/10)
agency: Adventure Thamserku
routememo:
  The team approached the mountain by trekking up the Arun River valley to Runbaun, then north to Tashigaon, Shipton Pass, Hillary BC and the Barun Glacier. They established BC on 24 October at 5300m on the height above the junction of the Barun Glacier and the glacier coming down from the Makalu La, near or at the lower site of Makalu base camps.

  On the 26th they spent the day moving along the right (east) side of the Barun Glacier and made a temporary camp at 5660m near a very small lake. While the members stayed in the camp, their two Sherpas, Dawa Gyalzen and Pema Tshering, climbed to point 6403m (on HMG Mount Makalu map), which was northeast of the lake, to see which way they should be going. They could see they should move north on the left side of the glacier.

  The next day they changed course and reached 5732m, where, David Graham believed, the British 2008 Pethangtse team had placed their BC, although the British gave a different altitude for their camp. The Canadians camped here for the night, on a glacial flat, an area of moraine west of point 5775m.

  On the 28th, they placed their high camp at 5880m on glacial ice north of and above point 5792m.

  They made their bid for the summit on 30 October. The three members and two Sherpas left high camp at 2:00 am. As they moved up the South Face, they fixed rope from 6200m to 6600m and still needed more rope, so the the Sherpas pulled out the lower ropes and re-fixed them; they actually could have used a total of 1000m of rope, but they had only 400m of it, plus 100m of climbing rope, which they pressed into use here. They were climbing a snow face which varied in steepness from 35 to 60 degrees; the snow was soft but sufficiently solid.

  At 6600m they joined the SW Ridge. It was a rounded ridge also covered by snow, but to get onto it they had to surmount the problem of a huge crevasse all across the face; its right end led to a very steep ice face, while its left end was only 30m wide. Pema Tshering free-climbed the sides of the crevasse and the team crossed there.

  The summit was reached at about 11:00 am by all five climbers and stayed there for half an hour despite strong wind. Towards the top of the ridge, they had to contend with gusts of wind of up to 100 km/hr. which knocked them to their knees; they hunkered down, waited for the wind to drop and got back onto their feet.

  They were back in High Camp after dark at 7:30 pm, having moved fixed ropes and re-fixed them as they descended. On the 31st they returned to BC and next day left BC to return to Kathmandu via the East Col and West Col below Baruntse, then across the Amphu Laptsa on 10 November.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa/Da Gyalzen, 22/8/68 (7/5/2025), Tiue (near Sanam), Gudel-4, Solu
    Pema Tshering, 3/10/72 (17/6/2029), Tiue, Gudel-4, Solu


expid: POKR09301
peakid: POKR
year: 2009
route1: N Ridge-NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
sponsor: Paulo Pokharkan Expedition
ascent1: 2nd
approach: Besisahar, up Marshyangdi->Phu Khola->Phu
bcdate: 2009-11-12
smtdate: 2009-11-20
termdate: 2009-11-22
campsites: BC(12/11,4850m),ABC(15/11,5200m),C1(18/11,5500m),C2(19/11,5800m),Smt(20/11)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  northeast of mountain on grass
  ABC on moraine northeast of mountain
  C1  on north ridge
  C2  on glacier.

  Grobel had led another expedition on Ratna Chuli in October, so he met the members when they arrived at Phugaon on 9 November. The members had gone by road to Besisahar, then up the Marshyangdi River to the Phu Khola and via Phu Khola to Phugaon. From there, the team went north to Hagoru village via the Khumjugar Khola, west to Kulung Kharka via the Lunnakya Khola, and finally northwest to BC.

  Three days after their arrival at BC on 12 November, they made an ABC from which all five members and five Sherpas attempted to climb Sahasar, a 6188m peak north-northwest of Pokharkan. On the 16th they went up the glacier on the southeast side of Sahasar to 5800m, but then they turned around. There was some wind and light snowfall. They returned to ABC the same day.

  They then concentrated on climbing Pokharkan with two camps above ABC. C1 was at 5500m on the North Ridge; now to reach their C2 site, on the 19th they went along the North Ridge to 5900m, then down the slope on its east side to the glacier below at 5800m to pitch C2 there.

  From C2, De Varax and Sherpas Chhotemba, Pasang, Rinji, Bishal Rai and Kishor Gurung moved up the glacier onto the NE Ridge at 6215m. This point on the ridge was between two small Pokharkan peaks 6205m and 6265m high. They then followed the rounded snow-covered NE Ridge to the summit.

  They descended to C2 for the night and were back in BC on the 21st.

  Grobel had planned that after Pokharkan, the team would search for an approach to Mt. Amolsang. However that idea was abandoned because of the cold (minus 15 degrees Celsius) and wind (over 50 km/hr), and they returned about one week early to Kathmandu.

  Sherpas:
    Bishal Rai, 22 yrs old, Dharan, Sunsari, no 8000ers
    Chhotemba Sherpa, 29/9/84 he says; 5/10/84 according to Himalayan Database, 
      Densi Chhungbu he says, Grobel thinks Walung, Database says Nurbugaon, 
      all agree Makalu-9, no 8000ers
    Kishor Gurung, 26 yrs old, Gorkha, no 8000ers
    Pasang Sherpa, about 25 yrs old, Walung, Makalu, no 8000ers
    Rinji Sherpa, 10/3/85 (27/11/2041), Yaphu-9, Makalu, Dhaulagiri I X1


expid: PUMO09301
peakid: PUMO
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Vladimar (Volodymyr) Lanko
sponsor: Ukrainian Pumori Expedition
bcdate: 2009-09-30
smtdate: 2009-10-05
termdate: 2009-10-11
termnote: Abandoned at 6150m due to heavy snowfall
campsites: BC(30/09,5250m),C1(04/10,5800m),C2(05/10,6150m),xxx(05/10,6150m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at south end of large lake 
  C1 at east face of south side just below ridge
  C2 at start of SW Ridge
  High point at C2.

  After having slept in C2 on 5 October, the two climbers descended to BC on the 6th to rest. Then they were pinned down for days by constant snowfall, and on the 10th, they decided to abandon the climb because of the continuous snowfall. When they left BC on the 11th, it was still snowing.

  Fixed rope: 400m from 5500m to C2.


expid: PUMO09302
peakid: PUMO
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Tim Rippel
sponsor: Peak Freaks Pumori Expedition 2009
countries: Australia, Ireland, Norway, Oman, USA
bcdate: 2009-10-13
smtdate: 2009-10-28
termdate: 2009-10-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6350m due to dangerous snow conditions
campsites: BC(13/10,5250m),ABC(18/10,5700m),C1(27/10,6100m),xxx(28/10,6350m)
accidents: Rippel's broken rib
agency: Senge Treks & Expeditions
routememo:
  BC  at shore of lake close to East Face [??]
  ABC on east face of SW Ridge
  C1  150m below SW Ridge
  xxx on SW Ridge horizontal section leading to Kalapattar.

  On 28 October a party of climbers left C1 to establish C2 at 6400m, but they never got there. Those in the party were Asiyabi, Bates, Havgen, Noonan, White and Williams. Sherpas Pasang Kaji, Tashi Thundu and Palden Namgyal went ahead of the members to fix rope all the way to C2 and arrived at 6350m at 1:00 pm, when Tashi Thundu radioed to Rippel, who was in BC because of his injury that the snow was in dangerous condition: it was waist deep and very unstable -- unable to hold snowbars or crampons; they were going no farther. Rippel immediately radioed Bates, who was at 6200m with the other members of the party, that it was too dangerous to continue the climb and they should come down. The climb was over.

  In their descent that day, Williams stopped in C1, Noonan and White in ABC, and Asiyabi, Bates and Havgen at BC. All were together in BC on the 29th.

  Other members:

  Rippel was with the group who established C1 on 27 October. At 3:00 am on the 28th, he was asleep in his tent when a chunk of ice (50 x 20 cm) fell from the SW Ridge and crashed onto his tent. The impact broke one rib and bruised another. He descended to BC, but was kept informed of progress above C1 by walkie-talkie.

  Higgins did not go above BC; he did not acclimatize well and left the expedition on 20 October.

  Powys reached C1 on 23 October, then ran out of energy and went no higher.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Kaji, 27/5/73 (14/2/2030), Bhakanje-5, Solu
    Palden Namgyal, 20/9/72, Phortse, Annapurna I X1, Everest X3, Lhotse X4, 
      Manaslu X1
    Tashi Thundu, 10/4/85, Khumjung, Everest X5


expid: PUMO09303
peakid: PUMO
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Wally Berg
sponsor: Expedition Hanes Brands Pumori
countries: Canada
bcdate: 2009-10-18
smtdate: 2009-10-28
termdate: 2009-10-31
termnote: Abandoned at 6260m due to dangerous rock fall
campsites: BC(18/10,5200m),ABC(22/10,5700m),C1(27/10,6100m),xxx(28/10,6260m)
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  BC  by large lake at bottom of East Face
  ABC on serac and around a big serac slightly off route to right
  C1  at 100m below horizontal section of SW Ridge
  high point at 6260 m at southwest ridge.

  Clarke, Craig and Simper left C1 at 6100m to establish C2 on 28 October at 4:40 pm, hoping that from late afternoon they would be safer from falling rock than in the warmer hours of the day. However, when the reached 6260m at 7:30 pm, they became worried that when the sun came up and shone warmly, the route would be unsafe for load-carrying porters, so they abandoned their climb and turned around. Craig descended to BC, while Clarke and Simper stopped in C1 that night. All were in BC on the 29th. The expedition's climb was over.

  Craig had gone to ABC and 100m above it on the 20th, when a bad chest infection caused him to retreat to BC and next day to Pheriche to recover. Fully  recovered, he returned to BC on the 24th.

  The leader, Berg, stayed in BC for the entire climbing period.

  Lingafelter also did not go above BC. She had a bad headache from the altitude, went to Pheriche with Craig, returned on the 25th and remained in BC.


expid: PUMO09304
peakid: PUMO
year: 2009
route1: W Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Robert Jasper
sponsor: Deutsche Pumori Expedition
bcdate: 2009-10-11
smtdate: 2009-10-16
termdate: 2009-10-18
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to heavily crevassed glacier
othersmts: Climbed Ama Dablam (AMAD-093-46)
campsites: BC(11/10),C1(14/10,5500m),xxx(16/10,5900m)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  The two-member team established no BC for Pumori, but began their bid to climb the mountain's West Face from Gorak Shep, near the foot of the mountain.

  On 16 Oct, when they were at 5900m on the glacier below the face, they saw that it was heavily crevassed ahead of them. They immediately abandoned their climb and left Gorak Shep two days later.

  They had intended to go to Ama Dablam and Cholatse from Pumori, and to climb Ama Dablam by an uncommon route from the south-southwest. But they had heard and seen that there was too much snow on Ama Dablam, so on the 20th Jasper decided to go home (he had no interest in Ama Dablam's normal route) while Treppte went directly to Ama Dablam and joined two other Germans, Felix Berktold and Christian Kohler, on the SW Ridge route.

  Treppte arrived at Ama Dablam BC that day, the 20th, slept in C1 on the 22nd, and followed the same pattern as Berktold and Kohler; he returned to BC on the 23rd, went back to C1 on the 24th and summited with them at 1:00 pm on the 25th.

  Treppte did not then attempt Cholatse since his climbing partner was already in Germany and Treppte did not want to try it alone.


expid: PUCH09301
peakid: PUCH
year: 2009
route1: SSW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Koichi Kato
sponsor: 2009 Punchen Himal Expedition
approach: Near Buri Gandaki's Syar Khola with Yaghi Khola
bcdate: 2009-09-27
smtdate: 2009-10-04
termdate: 2009-10-06
termnote: Abandoned at 5888m due to difficult rock section
campsites: BC(27/09,4200m),C1(29/09,4800m),C2(03/09,5700m),xxx(04-05/10,5888m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at Syar Khola
  C1 at Yangdi Khola
  C2 east of Yangdol
  High point at beginning of rock.

  The team made two bids to reach the summit. The first one was on 4 October by Shigemori and Tanaka, plus Pasang Tamang and Dhan Kumar Tamang. They left C2 for the top at 4:00 am, moving up the snow ridge to 5888m, where the final section of the route led up difficult bare rock. Here they stopped, turned around and descended to C1. The two members returned to BC the next day.

  The other three members, brothers Akira and Koichi Kato and Isie, and the same two Tamangs (who came up from C1) left C2 on 5 October at 7:00 am, and they in turn stopped at 5888m, at 12 noon. They went down to BC on the same day. The climb was over.

  Tamangs:
    Dhan Kumar, 4/12/85 (19/8/2042), Deusa, Solu, no 8000ers
    Pasang, 4/12/68, Deusa, Solu, Everest X3


expid: PUTH09301
peakid: PUTH
year: 2009
route1: NE Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Urs Hefti
sponsor: Putha Hiunchuli Expedition
ascent1: 33rd
countries: Italy
approach: Nepalgunj->Kakkot
bcdate: 2009-09-15
smtdate: 2009-09-23
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2009-09-25
campsites: BC(15/09,4950m),C1(19/09,5730m),C2(21/09,6305m),Smt(23/09)
achievment: 1st Swiss and Italian woman
agency: Iceland Trekking (Dorje)
routememo:
  Members were using skies and skins to ascend and descend the mountains. They started using the skies on the ascent from 5500m and skied down from 15m below the summit to the same point.

  On summit day team left C2 at 3 am in the morning. It was slightly overcast, but no wind. Members were using skies during the ascent. Sherpas was walking.

  They spent about one hour on the summit. Good views of Dhaulagiri range. Members skied down and helped take down their camps on the way down. They descended to BC. where they arrived at 5:15 pm.

  Rest day on 24 Sept. Left BC 25 Sept.

  First Swiss woman and first Italian woman to the summit.

  Sherpas:
    Dendi Sherpa, Taksindu-5, Deku, Solu, 22/1/1983
      Everest 20/5/2009, Cho Oyu 15/5/2007, Ama Dablam in 2007
    Kancha Sherpa, Taksindu-2, Solu, 19/11/82
      Himlung in 2008 with Iranians [??], no 8000ers


expid: PUTH09302
peakid: PUTH
year: 2009
route1: NE Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Hajo Netzer
sponsor: Amical Alpin Putha Hiunchuli Expedition 2009
ascent1: 34th
countries: Austria, Netherlands
bcdate: 2009-10-06
smtdate: 2009-10-17
smttime: 1115
termdate: 2009-10-19
campsites: BC(06/10,4950m),C1(11/10,5400m),C2(16/10,6300m),Smt(17/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  The expedition flew from Kathmandu to Juphal. They trekked along the Thuli Bheri Khola to Laisicap, then the Bharbung Khola to Karkot and climbed from there to BC.

  The summiters were Drexler, Hinterwimmer, Netzer, Pasang Temba and Pemba Jangbu. They left C3 at 3:00 am and were on the top from 11:15 am (Pemba Jangbu) to 12:00 noon (Hinterwimmer and Netzer). The weather was clear with strong wind from the southwest. The members slept in C2 that night, the Sherpas went down to BC.

  Non-summiting members:

  Boerder-Remberg and husband Edgar Remberg got to C1 only, then abandoned their climbing effort because of bad coughs.

  Deunk also got to C1 only, developed diarrhea and stopped climbing.

  Reuter reached C2, but found the wind was too strong on summit day.

  Schoederlein went to C2, but thought the wind was too strong to try for the top.

  Schoenfeld went to C1 only, had high altitude problems.

  Schubert also got to C2, but found the wind too strong for a summit bid.

  Siempelkamp reached and slept in C2, but the strong wind during the night frightened him very much, and he descended to BC.

  Trisl gave up after reaching C1 because of a permanent headache.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Temba, 20/1/83 (6/10/2039), Tashigaon, Makalu-5, Everest X1
    Pemba Jangbu, 16/2/86 (5/11/2042), Bupsa, Jubing-5, Solu, Makalu X1


expid: PUTH09303
peakid: PUTH
year: 2009
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Gilles Marcaud
sponsor: French Putha Hiunchuli Expedition
ascent1: 35th
approach: Nepalgunj->Juphal->Dunai->Tarakot->Barbung Khola->Kakkot->Panji
bcdate: 2009-10-14
smtdate: 2009-10-22
smttime: 0945
termdate: 2009-10-26
campsites: BC(14/10,4950m),C1(16/10,5550m),C2(20/10,6000m),C3(21/10,6550m),Smt(22/10)
agency: Trinetra Adventure
routememo:
  Caillean, Marcaud, Mingma and Iman Gurung left C3 at 5:15 am, reached summit at 9:45 am. The team could not stay on summit for more than a minute due to very strong wind (maybe 100 km/hr) and very cold. The team reached at C3 at 11 am, continued to descend to C1 where they arrived at 4 pm. Cailleau and Marcaud slept there. Sherpas wnet down to BC same day. Members went down to BC next day. 

  Most of the time there was snowfall, a meter deep at BC. 

  Pierre Berthelot slept at C3 on 21 Oct; he had headache; he did not try for the summit. 

  Suzon Berthelot went up to C1 twice on 16 and 19 Oct; she slept there; she went down to BC due to heavy bag. 

  Galland went up to C1 on 16 Oct, slept there; rest of the time he stayed at BC. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 1 Nov and left on 3 Nov except Marcaud who will leave on 2 Dec.

  Hired:
    Mingma Dukpa Sherpa, 26/9/80 (10/06/2037), Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha, 
      Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1
    Iman Gurung, 15/3/79 (2/12/2035), Laprak-6, Gorkha, no 8000ers


expid: PUTH09304
peakid: PUTH
year: 2009
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Jehan-Roland Guillot
sponsor: Odyssee Montagne Putha Hiunchuli
ascent1: 36th
bcdate: 2009-10-17
smtdate: 2009-10-25
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2009-10-28
campsites: BC(17/10,4900m),C1(19/10,5400m),C2(23/10,6000m),C3(24/10,6600m),Smt(25/10)
accidents: De Boysson's 8 fingers frostbitten on 25 Oct
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  De Boysson, Guillot, Le Menajour, Perrois, Lecerf and Pema Nuru left C3 at about 6 am. Le Menajour reached summit at 12 noon and last one De Boysson reached summit at 1 pm. The summiters stayed on summit about 3 minutes due to strong wind. Guillot and Sherpa descended to BC. The summit day was windy but sunny. De Boysson got frostbite on his eight fingers. He left BC on 28 Oct by helicopter and left Kathmandu on 30 Oct. Rest of the team members returned to Kathmandu on 4 Nova and will leave on 6 Nov.

  Sherpa:
    Pema Nuru, 27/1/75 (14/10/2031), Paiya, Jubing-7, Solu


expid: RAMC09301
peakid: RAMC
year: 2009
route1: N Face
nation: UK
leaders: Andy Houseman
sponsor: British Chang Himal Expedition 2009
ascent1: 2nd
approach: Lhonak->Kangchenjunga Glacier
bcdate: 2009-10-17
smtdate: 2009-11-01
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2009-11-05
campsites: BC(17/10,5050m),Series of Bivs,Smt(01/11)
agency: Loben Expeditions
routememo:
  The two members did all their climbing together. They had no Sherpas or bottled oxygen, had no fixed camps above BC, and fixed no ropes.

  First they did some acclimatization climbs from their BC from the afternoon of 17 October to and including the 24th. They summited one 6200m peak and attempted two 6000ers in the area north of Pangpema village, near where they had pitched BC in the morning of the 17th.

  They shifted their attention to Ramtang Chang, or Wedge Peak, on 25 October, when they deposited gear at the bottom of the mountain's unclimbed North Face at 4900m. They rested in BC for the next two days, then moved to the deposit site, where they bivouacked for the night of the 28th.

  Then they started up the face to the top in a series of three bivouacs, all on the face. On the 29th they made a 1000 meter-high direct line, starting from the first bivouac at 2:30 am and ending at 3:00 pm by dogging out a platform on a snow field above a rock formation for their next bivy at 6000m.

  On the 30th they gain much less altitude because of the difficult terrain. They begin at about 7:00 am up very steep bare rock, which in parts was vertical and even overhanging slightly; this section averaged about 80 degrees. They bivouacked at 7:30 pm above the rock at 6200m.

  Next day, the 31st, they again started climbing at abot 7:00 am. Now they moved slightly to their right onto the right side of the face on very loose snow "with little bits of rock as well" to 6550m at about 4:30 pm for their final bivouac.

  The 1st of November was their summit day. As usual, they got started at about 7:00 am. They climbed snow fluting to 100m below the summit, where they joined the snow-covered West Ridge and followed the ridge to summit, enjoying the first direct sunshine they had since the start of the North Face climb. At 12:00 noon they stood on the summit in the first ascent of the face. They were back in their last bivouac at 6550m, where they had left their rucksacks, at 3:00 pm.

  The 2nd of November was their last day on the mountain. At about 7:30 am they began their descent of the route they had just come up, and they down climbed the entire route to their first bivy at 4900m at 9:30 pm. Bullock confessed that they were "quite tired" when they reached the bottom of the face.

  They were back in BC on the 3rd and left it on the 5th. They flew to Kathmandu from Sukitar's grass airfield via Biratnagar on the 11th.

  At the time from arrival at BC to their departure, they had winds coming from the west, which were especially strong in the afternoons above 6500m. The temperature was about minus 10 to 15 Celcius, so the chill factor was "uncomfortable."


expid: RATC09301
peakid: RATC
year: 2009
route1: SW Face of W Smt
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Ernst Marti
sponsor: Swiss Ratna Chuli Expedition
approach: Phu Khola->Phugaon
bcdate: 2009-10-29
smtdate: 2009-11-07
termdate: 2009-11-09
termnote: Abandoned at 6604m (W Smt) due to difficult ridge to main summit
campsites: BC(29/10,5100m),C1(02/11,5800m),C2(06/11,6857m),xxx(07/11,6604m)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  BC at Phugau both
  C1 at east of point 6374m on HMG map glacier
  C2 on southwest face of West Ridge
  High point at West Summit (on Tibetan border).

  The team's summit push was launched on 7 November by seven members (all except Zweifel) and two Nepalese (Mingma Gyalbu Sherpa and Kangcha Lama Sherpa). They left C2 at 6:00 am on the southwest face of the West Ridge. This face was mostly a steep (30-45 degrees) snow face with short section of ice: one five meters high ice section was vertical. They gained the West Ridge and moved eastward on the ridge to the West Summit, 6604m high. As they looked ahead along the ridge to the main summit, they saw it was steep and covered by ice, which would have required 500 or more meters of fixed rope, taking four or five days to install. Since they were now short of time, they turned back from the West Summit and descended all the way to BC, where they arrived at 6:00 pm and the climb was finished.

  Marti had not expected so much bare ice in the post-monsoon period and was not prepared for it.

  Zweifel turned back at 6100m on 6 November as the team was climbing to C2. He was not strong enough to continue, so he returned to C1 instead.

  Sherpas:
    Kancha Lama Sherpa, 19/11/82 (4/8/2039), Taksindu-2, Solu, no 8000ers
    Mingma Gyalbu Sherpa, 19/1/88, Gyabla, Lelep, Taplejung, no 8000ers


expid: RATC09302
peakid: RATC
year: 2009
route1: SW slope of W Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
sponsor: Paulo Ratna Chuli Expedition
countries: Switzerland
approach: By road to Besisahar->Kato->Phu Khola->Phu, NE to BC
bcdate: 2009-10-25
smtdate: 2009-11-01
termdate: 2009-11-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to route too difficult for Sherpas without fixed and high winds
campsites: BC(25/10,5200m),C1(27/10,5700m),C2(29/10,6000m),C3(31/10,6350m),xxx(01/11,6550m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 on glacier due north of BC
  C2 on glacier west of start of West Ridge
  High point at col on border ridge.

  The expedition left Kathmandu by road to Besisahar and then trekked to BC via Kato, along the Phu Khola to Phu, then northeast to BC near Phugaon Goth (on HMG Phugau Ghomion map).

  Their climbing route went east from C2 on the glacier that is west of the beginning of the West Ridge, then up the southwest slope of the border ridge to a col on the ridge at 6550m between point 6662m and point 6604m on the HMG map. C3 was pitched 200m below the col.

  Their high point was reached at the col on 1 November, the day after C3 was established, by all members except Klein (who had stopped in C2 because was not experienced enough to go higher) and their two Sherpas, Chhotemba and Mingma Tshering. They stopped at the col because the Sherpas refused to go any higher along the summit ridge without fixed ropes, and because the wind was blowing at 40 km/hr and the temperature was minus 18 degrees Celsius. The members returned to C2 while the Sherpas went all the way down to BC. The members were in BC the next day.

  During the last stage of the climb, one of Jenck's fingers and one of Quatrini's fingers got frostbitten; their condition was not serious, but Grobel now concentrated his attention on caring for them and was not ready to launch a second summit bid. In any case, there was not sufficient time left to try again. The climb was over.

  The members returned to Kathmandu on 11 November, but Grobel stayed in the village of Phu to wait for his next expedition, which he was to lead from there to Pokharkan.

  Fixed rope: 150m between C2 and C3.

  Sherpas:
    Chhotemba Sherpa, 29/9/84 he says; 5/10/84 according to Himalayan Database, 
      Densichhungbu he says; Grobel thinks Walung, Database says Nurbugaon, 
      all agree Makalu-9, no 8000ers
    Mingma Tshering, 42 yrs old, Kharikhola, no 8000ers


expid: RAKS09301
peakid: RAKS
year: 2009
nation: USA
leaders: Kristoffer Erickson
sponsor: Raksha Urai/Saipal Region Expedition
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  BC on Seti River at Dhuli village.

  The four-member American team went to the Raksha Urai/Saipal region of the northwestern district of Bhajang on a permit for Mt. Korko, a 6053m peak they paid no attention to. They actually were on an extensive trek.

  They entered the area by flying on 30 September from Kathmandu wast to Dhangadi in the Terai and next day driving to Darchula. They trekked east to Dena on the Kalinga Narli River to its junction with the Seti River, then north along the Seti through Chainpur to a village called Dhuli (also called Saingaon), the last village on the Seti. They set up their BC here on 8 October at 2900m.

  On 14 October they went from BC following the Seti to Naya Odar, a stone refuge for porters trading between Nepal and Tibet, and the next day they continued up the Seti to another such refuge called Garaphu Odar at 3800m. On the day after that, the 16th, they went for an acclimatization trek but were stopped by sheer cliffs at 4700m.

  On 17 October they moved camp across the Seti to its west side and camped on the bank of a small stream at 3900m north-northwest of Garaphu Odar at the foot of a 5508m mountain northeast of Korko and east of the Raksha Urai range of 6000ers. On the 18th, Erickson, Garre and Laidlaw skied a south facing couloir on Pt 5508m while O'Neil took pictures of them.

  On the 19th they went back to Naya Odar, and the next day to Dhuli. They were now on their way out. On the 22nd they took a new trail along a mountain ridge to Sunikot village, just above the Seti, and back along the Seti to Chainpur. From Chainpur they took a charter flight to Surkhet, a vehicle to Nepalgunj and a scheduled flight to Kathmandu. They arrived in Kathmandu on 25 October.


expid: SAMD09301
peakid: SAMD
year: 2009
route1: N Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Aymeric Clouet
sponsor: Samdo Expedition
approach: See route details
bcdate: 2009-11-01
smtdate: 2009-11-05
termdate: 2009-11-06
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(01/11,4500m),C1(02/11,5200m),C2(03/11,5600m),xxx(05/11,6000m)
accidents: Marietti and Lasserre suffered from high altitude sickness
agency: Glacier Safari Treks
routememo:
  Approach: Besisahar->Chimje->Tilje->Bimthang->high camp->Larkya Pass->Samdo.

  On 5 Nov Bourgine, Clouet, Ulcakar, Babulal and Mingma left BC at 7 am. They reached C2 at 12 noon. They continued their climb till 6000m (about) where was a wall about 45 degrees and 100m high which was avalanche prone. Visibility was poor; then they turned around to C2 where they reached about 8 pm, slept there. Next day descended to BC and down to Samdo village. 

  Marietti got sick at Bimtong and stayed at Samdo. He did not go to BC. 

  Similarly Lasserre got sick at Larkya Pass and did not go to BC. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 13 November. Members left on 14 and 15 Nov. Clouet will leave on 29 November.

  Hired:
    Babulal Lama Tamang, 29/1/79 (15/10/2035), Kavre, Bhimkhuri-5 
    Mingma Dorchi/Dorje Sherpa, 30/8/80 (14/05/2037), Tashigaon, Everest X2, Makalu X1, 
      Lhotse X1


expid: SAMD09302
peakid: SAMD
year: 2009
route1: NNE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yusuke Kuramoto
sponsor: Japan Alpine Club Panpoche Expedition
ascent1: 1st,2nd
approach: See route details
bcdate: 2009-09-02
smtdate: 2009-09-20
smttime: 1020
termdate: 2009-10-19
othersmts: Attempted Panpoche 1 (PAN1-093-01)
campsites: BC(02/09,4330m),C1(11/09,4600m),C2(14/09,5600m),Smt(20,27/09)
achievment: 1st ascents of Samdo
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Approach: Besisahar->Marshyangdi->Buri Gandaki->Samdo, E on N side of Sonam Glacier.

  The team went by bus to Besisahar and trekked north up the Marshyangdi River to the Buri Gandaki River, north along the Buri Gandaki to Samdo village, east alng the north side of the Sonam Glacier to BC. BC was pitched on 2 September at 4330m on the north side of the glacier and C1 on 11 September 270m higher along the glacier near its bends to the north and then again towards the east.

  C2 was placed on 14 September on Samdo's NNE Ridge, which forms the border with Tibet, at a col at 5600m. They left C2 for top at 4:15 am on 20 September and all members were on the summit at 10:20 am. The ridge was not difficult: it was covered with good snow and not sharp. They descended to C2 at 1:15 pm.

  The team then, on the 21st, made a camp on the same ridge north of Samdo at 5900m, and the next day they tried to proceed directly to Panpoche, which is southwest of Samdo. But now snow was falling, and all the members were tired, so instead they descended to BC.

  On the 25th, Kameoka, Kotani and Yamamoto returned to C1, which was northwest of Samdo on the glacier at 4600m. On the 26th, they made a camp at 5900m, and on the 27th they went to Samdo's 6335m summit and along its West Ridge to 6400m, but then turned back to their camp at 5900m. They had expected to summit Panpoche and then return to the camp; they had taken no tent with them that day.

  On the 28th the other three members arrived at 5900m with two more tents. And on the 30th the whole team moved southwest from Samdo and reached 6500m on Panpoche's NE Ridge. Here they had to turn back: the rock ridge was covered in places by unstable snow, which broke off under their feet. So back to 5900m and the climb was finished.

  They had fixed 650m of rope between BC and C1, and 50m more above C2.


expid: TASH09301
peakid: TASH
year: 2009
route1: S Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hidehiro Minamii
sponsor: Pethangtse Tashi Kang Expedition
ascent1: 5th
approach: See route details
bcdate: 2009-09-19
smtdate: 2009-09-23
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2009-09-26
campsites: BC(19/09,5280m),C1(12/09,5800m),Smt(23/09)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Approach: By road to Beni and Marpha, crossed Thapa Pass into Hidden Valley->NE to BC.

  On 23 September Minamii and his two Sherpas Ang Phuri Lama and Dawa Chhiri Sherpa, left their only high camp C1 (5800m), at 5:45 am and reached the summit at 11:30 am. They had climbed the steep (varying from 45 to 60 degrees) South Ridge, where they had to fix 600m of rope. From C1 to the top (6386m), they were large cornices all along the right side of the ridge and the left side was very steep (60 degrees). The ridge itself was knife-edged with a thin layer of snow covering blue ice. Minamii considered himself "very lucky" to have had fine weather on his summit day, for if snow had been falling, there would have been considerable danger from avalanching. He return to BC at 3:00 pm "completely tired."

  Sherpas:
    Ang Phuri Lama, 19/2/48 (7/11/2004), Beni-3, Solu
    Dawa Chhiri Sherpa, 19/2/69 (8/11/2025), Kurima, Lokhim-9, Solu


expid: TAWO09301
peakid: TAWO
year: 2009
route1: N Face (up); S Face-E Face (down)
nation: Japan
leaders: Fumitaka Ichimura
sponsor: Tawoche Expedition
ascent1: 14th
bcdate: 2009-11-19
smtdate: 2009-11-28
termdate: 2009-11-29
othersmts: Attempted Lobuche East (to 6000m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
campsites:
  Biv1(19/11,4620m),Biv1(4930m,25/11),Biv2(5600m,26/11),Biv3(6000m,27/11),Smt(28/11),Biv4(6000m,28/11)

routememo:
  The two-member team first went to Lobuche East to acclimatize. They climbed via the North Face Tsho Glacier to 6000m on 9 November.

  On the 11th, they went to Pheriche for a week, then on the 19th moved north-northwest to Duglha village at 4620m, east of Tshola Tsho (lake) and north-northwest of their mountain. They had no fixed camps including no fixed BC; as they moved up and down the mountain, they carried all their gear with them as they climbed in alpine style and traversed the mountain.

  On the 20th they bivouacked on the North Face at 4930m. The next day they climbed to 5500m and spent the night there, then descended to Duglha village on the 22nd.

  On the 25th they returned to 4930m and now made their ascent of the North Face of their mountain. On the 26th they bivouacked at 5600m and on the 27th at 6000m. On 28 November they were on the 6495m summit and descended the South Face to 6000m and their last bivouac. From 6000m, on the 29th they traversed to the East Face and went all the way down this face and on to Pheriche on the same day.


expid: TAWO09401
peakid: TAWO
year: 2009
route1: S Central Buttress
nation: USA
leaders: Cory Richards
sponsor: Richards-Ozturk Taboche Expedition
ascent1: 15th
approach: Namche->Phortse->Pangboche
bcdate: 2009-01-11
smtdate: 2009-01-16
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2009-01-18
campsites: BC(11/01,5200m),Biv1(14/01,5700m),Biv2(15/01,6100m),Smt(16/01)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  BC was established on 11 January at 5200m on a glacial meadow northwest of Pt 5315m of the SE Ridge and below the ridge, which they did not climb. Instead they made a new route on the South Central Buttress in three days of climbing with two bivouacs directly to the main summit (about 6500m).

  Their first day's climb ended on 14 January at a bivouac at 5700m, which they placed on a ledge on the buttress. They had climbed without taking any water with them because they had expected to find snow at the bivouac site, but there was none; they went 24 hours without water.

  On the 15th they gained 400m in altitude on the buttress. Their second bivouac site at 6100m was near the top of the buttress at a line of seracs. Here they chipped ice from a serac to melt for water.

  On 16 January they went to the summit. They left the bivouac at 7:30 am after waiting for sunshine and, using one ice tool in each hand, moved up an ice face to 6300m (at one place on the face they climbed through a vertical hole in the ice). The ice face led them to the summit, which they reached at 2:00 pm. The day was not very cold and there was no wind at that altitude.

  They were back in their second bivouac that night and in BC on the 17th. In their descent via their ascent route, their rappel rope got caught on bare rock; they had to cut most of it off, which left them with only 20m for the last part of their steep descent on rock.

  Before going to BC, they had been to Pangboche, which had a good view of Taboche's west side. A local yak herder told them that the mountain from that side was called Chaluk, just as Everest had different name for its north and south sides.


expid: TILI09302
peakid: TILI
year: 2009
route1: NE Spur-N Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Florent Gex
sponsor: Mitho Ghumnu Tilicho Expedition
bcdate: 2009-10-13
smtdate: 2009-10-25
termdate: 2009-10-26
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to deep snow high on ridge
campsites: BC(13/10,4900m),C1(16/10,5800m),C2(24/10,6300m),xxx(25/10,6900m)
agency: Khumbu Shangri-La Nepal
routememo:
  BC near Tilicho Lake
  C1 on NE Spur
  High point at NE Ridge.

  The team's high point was reached at 12:00 noon on 25 October at 6900m by Bruchez and Peschier with Sherpas Phurwa Gelzen and Danuru. The Sherpas said the snow was too deep: it was nearly knee-deep at 6900m. The Sherpas also said it was too late to continue, although Gex doesn't know why it would have been too late.

  All the members had left C2 at 6:00 am to proceed up the North Ridge to establish C3. But four members turned back because their feet were cold due to their plastic boots which gave insufficient protection: Audibert and Lafouge stopped at 6500m while Bombeur and Gex continued only to 6600m. The only one of the four to be slightly frostbitten was Gex, whose toes became blue and on 5 November were still numb.

  All members descended to BC the same day; the pair who went the highest arrived in BC at 3:00 pm. The climb was finished.

  Fixed rope: 800m from 5600m to C2.

  Sherpas:
    Danuru/Dawa Nurbu, 22/11/76 (7/8/2033), Kharikhola, Jubing-1, Solu, Everest X7
    Phurwa Gelzen, 3/2/84 (20/10/2040), Pangkoma, Jubing-8, Solu


expid: TILI09303
peakid: TILI
year: 2009
route1: NE Spur-N Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Rainer Herbert Schlattinger
sponsor: Two Austrians on Tilicho
approach: Besisahar->Manang->Khangsar->Tilicho BC lodge
bcdate: 2009-10-22
smtdate: 2009-10-24
termdate: 2009-10-26
termnote: Abandoned at 5850 due to sickness of Muller
campsites: BC(22/10,4990m),xxx(24/10,5850m)
accidents: Muller suffered from altitude sickness
agency: Unique Adventure International
routememo:
  High point at C1 site.

  Schlattinger, Muller and Dawa Gyalzen went up to C1 on 24 Oct and returned to BC same day. The team did not try for the summit due to sickness of Muller. 

  Leader and Muller left BC by helicopter on 26 Oct. They left Nepal on 30 Oct.

  Dawa Gyalzen, 26/9/1979 (10/06/20360, Yaphu-9. no 8000ers


expid: TUKU09302
peakid: TUKU
year: 2009
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Finland
leaders: Anna-Marl Hyrylainen
sponsor: Finnish Tukuche Expedition
ascent1: 22nd
countries: Australia
approach: Jomsang->Marpha->Yak Kharka (4200m) BC
bcdate: 2009-09-16
smtdate: 2009-09-24
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2009-09-27
campsites: BC(16/09,5070m),C1(21/09,6025m),C2(23/09,6300m),Smt(24/09)
accidents: Ian Rutherford's altitude sickness
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  Hyrylainen couple, Dayula and Kami started from C2 at 5 am of 24 Sept. They reached middle peak of Tukuche at 10:30 am, stayed there about 30 minutes then descended to BC at 4 pm. They returned to Kathmandu on 29 September and will leave on 4 October. 

  Rutherford slept at C1 on 21 September. He had headache and vision problem and went down to BC on 22 September. He left BC on 26 September. He returned to Kathmandu on 2 October and will leave on 4 October.

  Sherpas:
    Dayula Sherpa, 21/4/72 (09/01/2029), Sotang-6, Solu, Everest X2, Makalu X1
    Kami Sherpa, 4/64, Cho Oyu X2, Everest 25/5/06


expid: TUKU09303
peakid: TUKU
year: 2009
route1: N Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Daniel Newton
sponsor: Project Himalaya Tukuche Expedition
countries: S Africa
bcdate: 2009-11-04
smtdate: 2009-11-09
termdate: 2009-11-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to loss of tent at C1 in deep snow and strong wind
campsites: BC(04/11,5130m),C1(09/11,5800m),C2(10/11,6350m),Sherpas.xxx(09/11,6700m),Mbrs.xxx(10/11,6350m)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  BC southwest of Thapa Pass
  C1 on west side of the wide North Ridge
  C2 at plateau at start of sharper ridge
  high point at 6700 m at C2 site.

  The two-member team went from Kathmandu by road from Pokhara to Beni and Darbung on the Myagdi khola, trekked north along the Myagdi through Bagora, Dobang, and around the west side of Dhaulagiri I via Pakabon, the Chhonbarang Glacier and Dhaulagiri BC, then northeast over French Pass to BC, which was southeast of Dhampus Pass.

  They found that their entire North Ridge route was covered in snow. They placed C1 on the west face of the wide North Ridge. C2 was sited at 6350m on a small plateau south of a small summit on the ridge and at the beginning of the ridge's narrowness, but it was never occupied. The members put gear and a tent at C2's site on 10 November; their Sherpas had gone on ahead of them on the 9th and fixed rope to 6700m, but had slept in C1.

  On 10 November the members descended to BC to rest. They rested on the 11th. On the 12th a snowstorm all day and night deposited two feet of snow at BC. On the 13th the snowfall was not so heavy, but a strong wind blew up.

  On the 14th, the whole team went up to C1. Here they found their tent buried under the snow; they dug it out but it was completely squashed and unusable, so back to BC in high wind. Their climb was over. They left BC on the 15th.

  Sherpas:
    Da Gelje, 11/2/67, Kurima, Lokhim-9, Solu, no 8000ers
    Dayula, 21/4/72, Dhodre, Sotang-6, Solu, Everest X2, Makalu X1


expid: URKM09301
peakid: URKM
year: 2009
route1: W Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Mark J. Houston
sponsor: Urkinmang 2009 Expedition
smtdate: 2009-10-28
termdate: 2009-10-29
termnote: Abandoned due to dangerous moraine, porters reluctance to go to Tilman's pass, snow
othersmts: Yala Peak on 26 Oct, Naya Kanga on 5 Nov by all
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  Approach: Dhunche, Syabru, Ama Hotel, Langtang, Kyanjin, Langshisa Kharka, Langshisa Glacier north of Urkinmang

  The team camped north of Urkinmang. It was difficult to cross the glacier to reach other side to reach Tilman's Pass, there was lots of snow. On 28 Oct Houston and Pasang went up to 4800m to see the possible way to reach Urkinmang BC, but they failed to find any possible way. Then they turned back to the camp. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 12 November and to leave on 15 November.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Sherpa, 17/8/67, Taksindu-8, Solu


expid: YAKA09301
peakid: YAKA
year: 2009
route1: S Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Shoji Sakamoto
sponsor: Sakamoto Khatung Kang & Yakawa Kang Expedition
approach: By road to Pokhara->Beni->Jomsom->Muktinath
bcdate: 2009-11-03
smtdate: 2009-11-15
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2009-11-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6450m due to slow climbing
campsites: BC(03/11,5100m),C1(05/11,5416m),xxx(15/11,6450m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC on main trekking route east from Muktinath
  C1 on Thorang La.

  Sakamoto made two attempts to scale Yakawa Kang. The first attempt was made from High Camp on 6 November. He and Pasang Kaji reached 6200m, just below a glacier, and then turned back because, at 1:30 pm, it was too late to continue. They went back to High Camp.

  They needed more fixed rope, so Sakamoto asked his trekking agency, Cosmo Treks, to send 200m of rope and 20 rock pitons. Now they could try again.

  They left High Camp on 15 November at 1:50 am. Pasang Kaji fixed from 6100m to the top of the rock band at 6200m, then up a 50-degree glacier of stable ice and fixed this to 6250m (in the first summit bid, he had already fixed rope from 5800m to 6100m). They reached their high point at 6450m at 2:00 pm or a little later; they turned back because again they were late, and also a cold, strong wind was blowing now. So back to High Camp; the climb was finished.

  Sakamoto had originally planned to go from Yakawa Kang to a nearby peak south of Yakawa Kang, Khatung Kang, but abandoned that idea because they had no more kerosene and little food. They descended to BC on the 16th and left for Kathmandu via Muktinath on the 17th.

  Sakamoto did not plan to leave Nepal immediately. He was leaving Kathmandu on the 25th on a bicycling trip northwest to Rara Lake.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Kaji, 24/2/81 (13/11/2037), Dogre [Dhodre], Sotang-6, Solu, Cho Oyu X1,
      Everest X1, Manaslu X1


expid: CHOY09358
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: China
leaders: Wangchen Sonam
sponsor: Holy Mountain Adventure Cho Oyu Expedition
smtdate: 2009-09-26
smttime: 0642
agency: Holy Mountain Adventure
routememo:
  6 Chinese summiters plus several Tibetan assistants summited from 8:57-10:00 am (CST) (6:42-8:45 am NST) on 26 Sept 2009.

  All Chinese used oxygen from high camp to summit (except Luo Zheng-Hao).


expid: PAN109301
peakid: PAN1
year: 2009
route1: W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yusuke Kuramoto
sponsor: Japan Alpine Club Panpoche Expedition
approach: See route details
bcdate: 2009-09-02
smtdate: 2009-09-30
termdate: 2009-10-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to unstable snow on ridge
othersmts: Climbed Samdo (SAMD-093-02)
campsites: BC(02/09,4330m),C1(11/09,4600m),C2(26/09,5900m),xxx(30/09,6500m)
primid: SAMD09302
routememo:
  Approach: Besisahar->Marshyangdi->Buri Gandaki->Samdo, E on N side of Sonam Glacier.

  The team went by bus to Besisahar and trekked north up the Marshyangdi River to the Buri Gandaki River, north along the Buri Gandaki to Samdo village, east alng the north side of the Sonam Glacier to BC. BC was pitched on 2 September at 4330m on the north side of the glacier and C1 on 11 September 270m higher along the glacier near its bends to the north and then again towards the east.

  C2 was placed on 14 September on Samdo's NNE Ridge, which forms the border with Tibet, at a col at 5600m. They left C2 for top at 4:15 am on 20 September and all members were on the summit at 10:20 am. The ridge was not difficult: it was covered with good snow and not sharp. They descended to C2 at 1:15 pm.

  The team then, on the 21st, made a camp on the same ridge north of Samdo at 5900m, and the next day they tried to proceed directly to Panpoche, which is southwest of Samdo. But now snow was falling, and all the members were tired, so instead they descended to BC.

  On the 25th, Kameoka, Kotani and Yamamoto returned to C1, which was northwest of Samdo on the glacier at 4600m. On the 26th, they made a camp at 5900m, and on the 27th they went to Samdo's 6335m summit and along its West Ridge to 6400m, but then turned back to their camp at 5900m. They had expected to summit Panpoche and then return to the camp; they had taken no tent with them that day.

  On the 28th the other three members arrived at 5900m with two more tents. And on the 30th the whole team moved southwest from Samdo and reached 6500m on Panpoche's NE Ridge. Here they had to turn back: the rock ridge was covered in places by unstable snow, which broke off under their feet. So back to 5900m and the climb was finished.

  They had fixed 650 meters of rope between BC and C1, and 50m more above C2.


expid: EVER08102
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Nyima Tsering
sponsor: Chinese Ladder Removal
termnote: Abandoned at 8700m due to ladder removal objective
campsites: xxx(8700m,May)
agency: Tibet Mountain School
routememo:
  Purpose of this team was to remove the original Chinese ladder that was erected in 1975 and bring it to a Chinese climbing museum. The original ladder has been replaced by a new, longer and more efficient ladder.


expid: AMAD09347
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Lorette Anderson, John Chate
countries: UK
approach: Lukla->Namche->Gokyo->Dregnak->Dzongla
bcdate: 2009-11-25
smtdate: 2009-11-28
termdate: 2009-12-31
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m
campsites: BC(25/11),C1(28/11,5800m)
agency: Himalayan Guides permit
routememo:
  Tendi told me the team did not go to summit. After returning to Kathmandu, the two climbers went to Pokhara. Tendi does not know when they left Nepal.


expid: MANA09122
peakid: MANA
year: 2009
route1: NE Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Bruno Rankwiler
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Manaslu Expedition 2009
countries: Austria, Germany, Italy
approach: Samagaon
bcdate: 2009-04-21
smtdate: 2009-05-14
termdate: 2009-05-18
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(21/04,4500m),C1(23/04,4800m),C2(26/04,5800m),C3(04/05,6800m),xxx(14/05,7000m)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  High point team (Aebischer, Brunner, Juda, Niederoest, Tesch, Esther Wenger, Rankwiler and Phuri Sherpa) left C3 at 4 am. The weather was a bit overcast. Straightforward climb. However, when they reached 7000m at about 9 am, Rankwiler decided to turn around as the weather had turned bad and there was avalanche danger. The team descended to C1, where they arrived at 5 pm. The next day they descended to base camp.

  Klahr reached 5800m on 26 April and stayed one night at C2. When they returned to base camp she got sick and decided to leave the expedition. She left BC on 30 April.

  Leuthold reached an altitude of 4800m (C1) on 23 April. He stayed at C1 for one night, but he was not feeling well. When they returned to BC he decided to abandon the expedition due to an infection and left BC on 21 April.

  Wenger reached an altitude of 6200m on 13 May; however, he had to turn around due to altitude problems.

  Rankwiler's note on the death of the Italian climber, Guiseppe Antonelli on Manaslu:

  The dead Italian Guiseppe Antonelli died, because the members and the leader (Mario Merelli) of the Italian expedition didn't care about Guiseppe. He lies over 7000m alone in the snow; no body was there, as they were heading towards the summit. A very bad story. We pulled Giuseppe to C2, where I gave him medicine and oxygen. After 1 hour he died.

  Note: Rankwiler does not know where Phuri Sherpa is from; however, he has climbed with Kobler before. 

  Sherpa:
    Furi Sherpa, 19/6/81 (5/3/2038), Kerung-1, Solu, no 8000ers


expid: TKRG10101
peakid: TKRG
year: 2010
route1: E Face-S Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: David Gottlieb
sponsor: Takargo 2010
ascent1: 1st
bcdate: 2010-03-06
smtdate: 2010-03-12
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2010-03-14
campsites: BC(06/03,4750m),Smt(12/03)
achievment: 1st ascent
agency: Climb High Himalaya
routememo:
  The two-man team approached the mountain from the west via the Rolwaling Khola to Beding and spent three weeks acclimatizing by ice climbing along the south side of the khola between the villages of Nyimare and Na (which are on the north side).

  On 4 March they moved from Na to the south side of the Tsho Rolpa lake to their BC, which they made on 6 March at 4750m on the Trakarding Glacier, a "dirty" glacier of rocks strewn atop the ice, south of Takargo.

  They had originally thought they might climb the mountain via a west rib, and on the 7th they bivouacked on the glacier between Chobutse and Takargo to have a look at the west side of Takargo. But they didn't like that side's bare unstable rock and rockfall.

  They returned to BC on the 8th, and the next day they went around to the east side of Takargo and bivouacked east of the mountain at 5400m on the Drolamba Glacier. They decided to climb the East Face of mixed rock and snow.

  On the 10th they bivouacked at 5740m on a glacier coming away from the East Face, and on the 11th they made their next bivouac 6400m on top of a large hanging glacier against the East Face.

  Finally on 12 March, they left this last bivouac at 7:30 am for the summit. They climbed up the mildly steep East Face just north of a widely rounded kind of ridge to its top, point 6756m (on the Schneider Rolwaling map). There they turned north and ascended the summit ridge, the South Ridge of Takargo's main summit; this ridge was covered by a continuous series of sharp cornices. Despite the lightly falling snow on a very cold day with winds blowing moderately (at 15-25 mph), they made their way along the cornices to the three highest of them, about 100m apart, to make sure they stood on the very highest.

  They had made the first ascent of Takargo. They were there at around 2:30 pm and returned to their highest bivouac at 5:30 pm in gentle snowfall that added two inches of new snow.

  At 7:30 am on the 13th they left their last bivouac at 6400m and descended all the way to BC at 4750m, where they arrived at 7:00 pm. They were very tired, but they managed to pack up everything and leave BC on the 14th with heavy loads to return to Kathmandu. They were back in their modest Kathmandu hotel on the 21st.


expid: AMPG10101
peakid: AMPG
year: 2010
route1: NE Ridge of Amphu East
nation: UK
leaders: John Allen
sponsor: British Amphu Expedition
approach: Via Chhukung
bcdate: 2010-04-05
termdate: 2010-04-09
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to loose rock on Amphu East
othersmts: Attempted Amphu East
campsites: BC(05/04,5100m),Biv.Amphu East(06/04,5600m),Amphu East.xxx(07/04,5900m)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  Biv on NE Ridge of Amphu East
  High point at NE Ridge of Amphu East.

  The three-man team had a permit for Amphu Gyabjen, southeast of Chhukung in Khumbu, but their goal was a nearby peak they called Amphu East, which is the unnamed point, 6205m on the Schneider Khumbu map.

  They first climbed Island Peak with their group of trekkers. The three members summited it on 3 April. Then the climbers went to their own mountain and established BC on 5 April at 5100m beside a trail marked on the Schneider map that leads east from Chhukung village, and camped at about the point where the trail turns south to Amphu.

  From this base, on the 6th they placed a bivouac at 5600m on the NE Ridge of point 6205m. The next day, the 7th, was to be their summit day, and they set out at 8:00 am for the top, leaving all their gear in their bivouac. But when they reached 5900m on the ridge, the ridge now steepened considerably and consisted of loose rock. They tried to avoid this hazard of scree and loose rock by traversing 20m onto the southeast side of the ridge, but the rock was still steep and loose.

  At 2:00 pm, they were still unhappy with conditions under foot: it was still steep and loose. They had gone back onto the ridge, but that was no improvement. They decided that it was now too late to try for the summit, and they returned to their bivouac at 6:00 pm. The climb was over and they were back in BC the next day. They left BC for Deboche on 9 April.

  Franklin thinks it is possible to climb this ridge, and he might go back to it after a couple of years.


expid: CHOY06382
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Taiwan
leaders: Huang Der-Hsiung
sponsor: Taiwan Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 2006-08-28
smtdate: 2006-10-02
smttime: 0610
termdate: 2006-10-11
campsites: BC(28/08),ABC(5650m),C1(13/09,6050m),C2(29/09,7100m),C3(30/09,7500m),Smt(02/10)
routememo:
  Climbed along with the Chinese Amateurs expedition (Wang Yong-Feng).

  The Taiwanese members each used less than one full bottle on summit day.


expid: KWAN91301
peakid: KWAN
year: 1991
route1: E Face
nation: UK
leaders: Ric Potter, Pete Richardson
approach: From Thami
bcdate: 1991-11-13
smtdate: 1991-11-18
termdate: 1991-11-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to lateness in the day
campsites: BC(13/11,4600m),ABC(15/11,5000m),Biv1(17/11,5700m),xxx(18/11,6100m+),Biv2(18/11,5200m)
routememo:
  Ric Potter - 15 Sept 2010 (email)

  BC  on a spur below Kwangde's North Face (altitude probably around 4600m)
  ABC at the base of the "inverted Y" of the NE Ridge (around 5000m).

  From ABC we traversed up and leftwards around the base of the ridge into a large cirque dominated by the E Face of Kwangde - a wide triangular face (800-900m high maybe) with the NE Ridge running up the right-hand side. We climbed a couloir in the centre of the face but were forced right-wards by difficult ground at about half height. We eventually joined
  the NE Ridge at around 6000m. The standard was around Alpine D.

  No other members, just 2 porters who met us back at base camp on the 20th and helped us carry our gear back out.


  Ric Potter - 16 Sept 2010 (email)

  Ok I have dug out my diary so I have exact dates now (I was a day out). Got to base on 13th, spend 14-16 moving up to ABC and then resting before climbing on 18th & 19th. Got back to base on the 20th.

  For the climb had 2 bivis: The first was on a ledge on the face below the NE ridge, at around 5700-5800m maybe; that was on the 17th.

  On the 18th we carried on to the ridge, which we reached mid-morning. We did a couple of hours along the ridge, but it was hard & slow going (with some new snow over blocks) so we dumped our sacks and carried on without them. 

  We followed the summit ridge until some time in the afternoon but didn't make the highest point. We thought we were at the top but then it carried on some more and we were keen to get back to our sacks and were worried about the time. Must have been above 6100m, so pretty close.
   
  We turned around about 4 in the afternoon. Got back to the sacks, and then abseiled straight down the face (must be line of anchors as we left a krab on every one). Finished in the dark and bivied a second night by a boulder at the foot of the face (5200m?).

  Staggered back to ABC then BC the next day (20th). Porters met us on 21st and back to Thame.


expid: AMAD09348
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Christoph Goretzka, Christoph Kreutzenbeck
approach: Lukla->Pheriche->BC
bcdate: 2009-10-24
smtdate: 2009-11-03
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2009-11-06
campsites: BC(24/10,4600m),ABC(28/10,5200m),C1(31/10,5600m),C2(02/11,5800m),Smt(03/11)
accidents: Goretzka got slight frostbite on summit day on both hands, however, it healed perfectly
agency: Himalayan Sherpa Adventure
routememo:
  On summit day, the team left C2 at 3:30 am. On top the weather was sunny, but cold. There were a couple of French climbers and a Sherpa on the summit.

  Goretzka and Kreutzenbeck returned to C2 at 3 pm, Limmer arrived at 5 pm. Limmer stayed at C2 and Goretzka and Kreutzenbeck descended to BC, where they arrived at 10 pm.


expid: AMAD08344
peakid: AMAD
year: 2008
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Andreas Sippel
sponsor: Two Germans on Ama Dablam
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2008-10-27
smtdate: 2008-11-05
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2008-11-08
campsites: BC(27/10,4700m),C1(02/11,5800m),C2(04/11,6040m),Smt(05/11)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Andreas Sippel and Saskia Held left C2 at 5 am. At about 6:30 am they came across blood in the snow which bothered Held so much that she wanted to turn back. Sippel descended to C2 with her and arrived at 7:00 am; At 7:15 am Sippel started again and summited on his own. After summit he descended to C2, wehre he arrived at 1 pm. On 6 November they tried another summit push but it was too cold, so they turned back at about 6200m and descended to BC.


expid: AMAD10101
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Andorra
leaders: Orial Ribas
sponsor: Andorrans to Ama Dablam
bcdate: 2010-04-05
smtdate: 2010-04-21
termdate: 2010-04-22
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to high winds
campsites: BC(05/04,4500m),Biv1(07/04,5500m),Biv2(21/04,5800m),C3(22/04,6100m),xxx(21/04,6500m)
achievment: 1st Andorran attempt
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Although they had thought they might try Ama Dablam's West Face, the two Andorrans did not do so but concentrated solely on the normal SW Ridge route.

  They climbed basically in alpine style. They had no Sherpa support, fixed no ropes, and bivouacked at C1 and C2 sites; they had a tent at C3 for their summit bid.

  They arrived at BC on 5 April, "went up to C1 at 4500m on the 7th and on the 8th climbed to the C2 site at 5500m and left some gear there, but descended to BC the same day to rest.

  On 11 April they bivouacked again at C1, and on the 12th they moved up to C3 at 6100m and slept there.

  On the 13th, they climbed up to the top of the mushroom at 6200m. But it was very cold and very windy, so they retreated all the way to BC that day.

  They moved up again from BC on the 20th and slept at C3. The next day, 21 April, they set out for the top rather late, at 8:00 am, because it was very windy until then. They reached the Dablam at 6500m at 2:00 pm, which they felt as too late for them to continue to the summit; they turned around here.

  They would have liked to spend that night in C3, but their tent at this camp was in bad condition. They descended to their C2 bivouac, where they arrived at 7:00 am.

  On 22 April they went down to BC and on to Pangboche. They flew out from Lukla on the 25th.


expid: AMAD10102
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Kazakhstan
leaders: Dmitri Suponnikov
sponsor: Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Russia
approach: Phakding->Namche->Porchtuga->Machermo->Zongla->Pangboche
bcdate: 2010-04-20
smtdate: 2010-04-27
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2010-04-30
campsites: BC(20/04,5300m),C1(21/04,5800m),C2(22/04,6000m),C3(23/04,6270m),Smt(27/04)
accidents: Ivanova suffered from breathing difficulty
achievment: 1st climber to summit in the season
agency: Durga Tamang (Himalayan Guides pmt)
routememo:
  Fixed rope - 600m between C3 to summit.

  On 22 April Suponnikov went up to C3 and back to C2 same day. Ivanova went down to C1 on 23 April. On 23 April Suponnikov, Bezruchko of Russian team and his Sherpa put fixed ropes about 100m above the C3. Bezruchko had a little frostbite on his fingertip and went down. Suponnikov's summit push started from C3 on 27th April at 8 am. He reached the top at 4 pm; stayed on summit for about 20 minutes, then descended to C3 at 7 pm. The summit day weather was cloudy around the top, not very windy and temperature was comfortable. Ivanova was at C3. 

  Next day 28 April Suponnikov and Ivanova started from C3 for the summit. When they reached about 6350m, Ivanova had difficulty in breathing and decided to descend. They arrived at C2 and telephoned to their insurance company for evacuation by helicopter. On 29 April Ivanova and Suponnikov went down to BC. Next day 30 April they arrived in Kathmandu by helicopter. Ivanova was admitted to Norvic Hospital. When I met Suponnikov on 1 May he told me that Ivanova is Ok and may be discharged from hospital on 2 May. Both of them will be leaving Nepal on 3 May. 


expid: AMAD10103
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Sergei Kofanov
sponsor: Media Arts Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Ukraine
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->ABC
bcdate: 2010-04-04
smtdate: 2010-04-10
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2010-04-13
campsites: BC(04/04,4000m),ABC(05/04,5100m),C1(06/04,5800m),C2(07/04,5900m),C3(08/04,6300m),Smt(10/04)
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC  in Pangboche
  ABC entire team
  C1  entire team
  C2  entire team
  C3  entire team, but Sherpas didn't stay.

  10 Apr - 4 members started from C3 6300m at 6am, summited at 16:00, stayed on the top for 25 minutes. Cloudy weather but managed to take some photos. Came down to C3 at 00:00 stayed overnight.

  11 Apr - came down to C2 at 5900m
  12 Apr - Pangboche

  Climbing Sherpas reached high point at 6550m on 9 Apr and went down; were only fixing ropes.


expid: AMAD10104
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Volodymyr Khytrykov
sponsor: Seven Summits Club Ama Dablam
countries: Canada, Kazakhstan, Ukraine
approach: Namche
bcdate: 2010-05-03
smtdate: 2010-05-13
termdate: 2010-05-15
campsites: BC(03/05,4500m),ABC(04/05,5200m),C1(05/05,5780m),C2(11/05,5900m),C3(12/05,6080m),Smt(13/05)
accidents: Kovalev pneumonia, hypostasis of lungs
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
routememo:
  Kovalev had pneumonia, hypostasis of lungs; from C1 to ABC he was carried by Sherpas and from ABC by helicopter to Kathmandu.

  13 May started to summit from C3 6080m at 4 am. Summited at 11-12, stayed on the top about 1 hour. The weather was sunny, no clouds, very windy. Came back to C3 about 17:00.

  14 May returned to Pangboche.

  Sherpas:
    Kami Dorje Sherpa, 15/1/83, Kharikhola
    Mingma Dorchi Sherpa, 18/8/87, Tashigaon, Makalu


expid: AMAD10105
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Evgeny Voronov
sponsor: Two Russians on Ama Dablam
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2010-04-26
smtdate: 2010-05-02
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2010-05-05
campsites: BC(26/04,5450m),ABC(29/04,5450m),C2(30/04,6000m),C3(01/05,6300m),Smt(02/05)
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
routememo:
  On 2 May started from C3 at 10:00 am, reached summit at 16:00, stayed at about 1 hour on the top. The weather was not very good, snowing and cloudy, but they managed to take photos. Returned to C3 at 19-20:00 for onwards. On the 3rd May they met 1 Polish and 1 French climbers.


expid: AMAD10106
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Dmitri Bezruchko
sponsor: Russian team to Ama Dablam
bcdate: 2010-04-17
smtdate: 2010-04-26
termdate: 2010-04-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to frostbitten fingers of leader
campsites: BC(17/04),ABC(19/04,5300m),C2(22/04,6040m),C3(25/04,6400m),xxx(26/04,6500m)
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC  at Pangboche
  ABC 5 male members onwards except Irina Bezruchkova
  C2  4 male members except Yuri Levin
  C3  at 6400m Dmitri Bezruchko.

  The team had to split due to Irina Bezruchkova felt sick from the beginning. Only leader was able to reach the highest point with the Sherpa. They had to stop climbing, due to leader had frostbitten fingers [while fixing rope for the team]. The team didn't want to continue climbing without the leader.

  Sherpa:
    Doma Chhiri Sherpa, 17/1/84 (3/10/2040), Sikli, Jubing-9, Solu, Everest X4


expid: AMAD10107
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Mathias Le Douce
sponsor: Frenchman on Ama Dablam
approach: Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2010-04-29
smtdate: 2010-05-04
termdate: 2010-05-05
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to too much snow
campsites: BC(29/04,4600m),C1(03/05,5600m),xxx(04/05,5900m)
agency: South Asian Treks
routememo:
  On 4 May Le Douce and Pemba tried to go to C2. But it was not possible due to snow conditions. From 29 April there was snowfall almost everyday after 11 am. 

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Rinji Sherpa, 3/10/70, Kharikhola, Everest X4


expid: AMAD10108
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dick Morse
sponsor: US Ama Dablam and Lhotse Expedition
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2010-03-21
smtdate: 2010-04-12
termdate: 2010-04-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to rock fall, bad conditions
othersmts: Attempted Lhotse (LHOT-101-03)
campsites: BC(21/03,4700m),C1(01/04,5700m),C2(12/04,6100m),xxx(12/04,6300m)
agency: Peak Promotion
primid: LHOT10103
routememo:
  High Point: 13th April at 6300m by Morse and Mingma Dorje.

  Team left C1 at 7 am on 12 April. Weather was good. There was not a lot of snow and the mountain was very dry. Mingma Dorje had fixed rope before, around 400m between C1 and C2.

  They reached C2 at around 10 am. They stayed the night at C2 as they wanted to push for the summit on 13th April. However, the weather turned very bad during the night and as the conditions on the mountains were also very difficult, they decided to return to BC on 13th April. They left Ama Dablam BC to go to Lhotse on 15th May.

  Fixed rope: 800m between C1 and C2.

  Sherpa:
    Mingma Dorje, Tapting, Solu, 17 July 1979, Everest in 2004, 2007 and 2008


expid: AMAD10109
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Thierry Bonhomme
sponsor: Ethnic Himalaya Expedition to Ama Dablam
approach: Phakding->Namche->Tengboche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2010-04-17
smtdate: 2010-04-27
termdate: 2010-04-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to no fixed ropes, snowfall
campsites: BC(17/04,4600m),ABC(19/04,5500m),C2(20/04,6000m),xxx(27/04,6300m)
agency: Dhan Prasad Gurung (Himalayan Guides pmt)
routememo:
  Bonhomme and Suman Gurung spent a night at C2. On 26 April next day they went up to 6300m. There were no fixed ropes, so they descended to BC and gave up climbing Ama Dablam.

  The team return to Kathmandu on 2 May and will leave on 15 May.

  Hired:
    Suman Gurung, 27/9/85, Laprak-7, Gorkha, no 8000ers


expid: AMAD10110
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Roger Fleming
sponsor: Swiss-German Duo to Ama Dablam
countries: Germany
approach: Phakding->Namche->Island Peak BC->Chhukung
bcdate: 2010-04-21
smtdate: 2010-04-26
termdate: 2010-05-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to icefall and rockfall (route was all ice)
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak by all on 18 April
campsites: BC(21/04,4700m),C1(23/04,5800m),C2(24/04,6100m),xxx(26/04,6500m)
agency: Matterhorn Treks (Himalayan Guides pmt)
routememo:
  High point at 6500m at below C3.

  Fleming and Lutzenberger went up to C2. Ngima and Kami went up to just below C3. The route was covered by ice and there was no fixed rope. Lutzenberger wrote in her email that Fleming was completely exhausted and not acclimatized at all, but, she [Lutzenberger] was perfectly fine for climbing. At the end Ang Kami decided to abort the expedition. 

  Lutzenberger returned to Kathmandu on 2 May. Fleming returned to Kathmandu on 4 May and left Nepal on 11 May.

  Sherpas:
    Ngima Wangchu, 12/2/78 (1/11/2034), Ghat, Chaurikharka-6, Solu
    Ang Kami Sherpa, 23/01/73, Sanu Gumela, Chaurikharka-9


expid: AMAD10111
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Alexandre Fremin Du Sartel
sponsor: Mr. Duss on Ama Dablam
bcdate: 2010-04-14
smtdate: 2010-04-23
termdate: 2010-04-25
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to Sherpas were instructed by their agency not to put fix rope above C2
campsites: BC(14/04,4650m),C1(16/04,5600m),C2(19/04,6200m),xxx(23/04,6300m)
agency: Himalayan Guides permit
routememo:
  Email of Alexandre Fremin Du Sartel - 28 Sept 2010

  Fremin Du Sartel was in C2 on 23 April and intended to summit in 1 or 2 days. The Sherpas who were supposed to fix the ropes to the summit were instructed not to put up the ropes as their agency did not receive money from his agency. Then Du Sartel went down to BC. 

  He returned to Kathmandu on 27 April and left for home on 28 April.


expid: ANN110101
peakid: ANN1
year: 2010
route1: N Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Frank Gasser
approach: Pokhara to Tatopani by helicopter->Tatopani to BC
bcdate: 2010-04-16
smtdate: 2010-04-28
termdate: 2010-05-01
termnote: Abandoned at 5500m due to stomach problem, gas
campsites: BC(16/04,4200m),C1(17/04,5000m),C2(20/04,5500m),xxx(28/04,5500m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Gasser went to C2 three times during his acclimatization process. He spent two nights there on 20 April and on 24 April; both nights he had stomach problem. Last time he went to C2 was on 28 April. On that day he did not sleep but went down to BC same day. He gave up his climbing on Annapurna. 

  Gasser returned to Kathmandu on 3 May from Pokhara by plane and trying to leave on 6 May.


expid: ANN110102
peakid: ANN1
year: 2010
route1: N Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Edurne Pasaban
sponsor: 14 X 8000 Annapurna & Sishapangma Expedition
ascent1: 51st
bcdate: 2010-03-15
smtdate: 2010-04-17
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2010-04-21
campsites: BC(15/03,4200m),C1(17/03,5000m),C2(20/03,5600m),C3(29/03,6400m),C4(16/04,7100m),Smt(17/04)
accidents: Latorre's accident
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  The team made a variation of earlier routes on the North Face by going to the left (east of the Dutch Rib and thus avoiding a dangerous big serac at the top of the rib. (The rib route is now "impossible," Pasaban said.) They fixed 1150m of rope from 5800m just below the rib, to C3 at 6400m. All other teams on the face this spring followed this route. The "most dangerous area" on the North Face is now at 5800m from falling seracs tumbling down from the area above it. The team took three days to fix the ropes, sleeping in C2 and working on the route above.

  After accomplishing that job, they descended to BC. They then resumed their climb and fixed 150m between C3 and C4 at 7100m to skirt around to the left a very wide crevasse to its narrow point at 7100m.

  Before they had occupied C4, Latorre had an accident while skiing from C2 to C1. On 27 March at 5400m, a ligament in his right leg was badly torn when his ski hit a boulder hidden under a snow. He managed to get to BC on his own feet and left BC by helicopter on 29 March.

  That left four climbing members to make the team's successful summit bid from C4 on 17 April with three Sherpas: Chicon. Izagirre, Orviz, Pasaban, Jangbu, Mingma Thindu and Pasang Tendi. They were on the top at about 1:30-2:00 pm.

  Sherpas:
    Jangbu Sherpa, 19/9/79 (3/6/2036), Kharikhola, Solu, Everest X3, Kangch 18/5/09
    Mingma Thindu Sherpa, 2/12/82, Makalu vdc
    Pasang Tendi Sherpa, 25/2/88, Kharikhola


expid: ANN110103
peakid: ANN1
year: 2010
route1: N Face
nation: USA
leaders: Nick Rice
sponsor: Nick Rice on Annapurna
bcdate: 2010-04-05
smtdate: 2010-04-21
termdate: 2010-05-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6250m due to injuries suffered from falling ice
campsites: BC(05/04,4200m),C1(14/04,4870m),C2(15/04,5565m),xxx(21/04,6250m)
accidents: Rice hit by falling ice (stomach trouble earlier)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Rice arrived at BC on 5 April and two days later went to C1, then returned to BC on the 8th. On the 9th he developed stomach trouble and stayed in BC while he recovered.

  He went back up to C1 on the 14th and on to C2 the next day. On the 6th he gave his light tent to Joao Garcia, the Portuguese climber on the expedition led by Piotr Pustelnik, for Garcia's summit push. Rice descended to BC.

  On the 20th, Rice climbed from BC to C2, and on 21 April he headed up to C3. He reached 6250m, where he was hit on the head by a block of ice, a part of a serac that had fallen, struck a rock and broken into pieces. His head was not visibly injured, but left him vomiting and dizzy, and his balance was not normal. He managed to go down alone to C1 at 4:00 pm in near white-out conditions. On the 22nd he was back in BC.

  He left BC on the 25th and went up to C2 with the intention of climbing the next to C4. However on the 26th, when he had not gone very far above C2, to only 5750m, he became dizzy again and abandoned his attempt on Annapurna I. He returned to BC that day and stayed there until 1 May, when a helicopter arranged by Pustelnik's expedition picked them (and him) up at BC and flew them to Kathmandu.


expid: ANN110104
peakid: ANN1
year: 2010
route1: N Face (east of Dutch Rib)
nation: Spain
leaders: Carlos Pauner
sponsor: Spanish Annapurna I Expedition
ascent1: 54th
bcdate: 2010-03-30
smtdate: 2010-04-27
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2010-05-02
campsites: BC(30/03,4200m),C1(03/04,5000m),C2(04/04,5500m),C3(14/04,6500m),C4(26/04,6950m),Smt(27/04)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  The team climbed the North Face to the east (left) of the Dutch Rib by the route fixed by other Spaniards led by Edurne Pasaban.

  After having pitched C1 on 3 April and C2 on the 4th, they went down to BC on the 5th to rest. On the following days, they carried loads up to C2 but slept in BC. On the 15th they went up to C2 and on the 16th established C3 at 6500m and slept there on an acclimatization trip.

  But that day, the 16th, Arias and Rafols were in their at C3 while Calafat, Oiarzabal, Pauner, Perez and their Sherpas were outside a tent they were trying to erect. Those outside could see big ice blocks fall and hit the erected tent. The ice hit Arias in his back and Rafols in the back of his neck. They were not seriously injured but they were in considerable pain. Everyone returned to BC on the 17th. Arias and Rafols stayed in BC for a while, then decided they had enough of Annapurna. They left BC by helicopter on the 24th for Kathmandu and on the 25th flew home.

  On 24 April the othere set out for the top: Calafat, Oiarzabal, Pauner and Perez, plus Sherpas Dawa and Lhakpa Sonam, left BC for C2. The next day five of them went up to 6950m and made C4 there. The sixth, Perez, had to descend to C2 because one of his crampons had broken. He continued down to BC on the 26th.

  Calafat, Oiarzabal, Pauner, Dawa and Lhakpa Sonam left C4 at 2:00 am on the 27th for the summit and arrived there at 4:00 pm, an hour later than the Koreans led by Miss Oh because the Spanish party took time to fix 150m of rope above C4 near the summit. At the top, they left to the high bump.

  In their descent from the top Oiarzabal, Pauner and Dawa were faster than other two and got well ahead of them. At 7:00 pm Calafat spoke on his walkie-talkie to Perez, saying that he and Lhakpa Sonam had lost the trail in the dark. They managed to find it after half an hour or an hour, but now Calafat reported that he and Lhakpa Sonam were at about 7600m. He was exhausted and sitting in the snow. He could not stand up, he was too tired to move. Perez exhorted him to move, but he did not. By 9 pm he was unable to talk intelligibly. 

  At 5:00 am on the 28th, other teammates continued the exhortation to get up and move down if he wanted to see his wife and children again. Now he did try to stand up, but his legs didn't hold him and he sat down again. Sonam went down to C4, where he found the three other summiters at 7:00 am; they were too tired to climb up to Calafat, having returned to C4 only at midnight after having waited for two hours at 7300m for Calafat to reach them. Meanwhile, at about 6:30 am, Perez used the team's satellite phone to call the head of their trekking agency, Sonam of Thamserku Trekking, and ask for a helicopter to come and help rescue Calafat -- perhaps to take some climbers up from BC to C4. A helicopter was sent, but it was cloudy at lower altitudes, and the helicopter could get no closer to BC than Ghorapani. His teammates still could not persuade Calafat to move.

  At 1:00 pm on the 28th, Dawa went up from C4 with oxygen and mask made available by Miss Oh's Korean team, a sleeping bag and medicine for Calafat. It started snowing at 3:00 pm. Pauner and Oiarzabal stayed in C4 at 9:00 am on the 29th and reported that he gone nearly to the summit and had seen nothing of Calafat, who, Pauner and Perez believe, must by then have been lying under a blanket of snow and been invisible to Dawa as he went right past him.

  At 7:00-7:30 am on the 29th, a search and rescue mission in a helicopter overflew Calafat's position at 7600m and could see no trace of him. His body remains there, on the trail followed by this team and the others this season.

  Doctors who are experts in high altitude problems said Calafat did not have cerebral edema but died of hyperthermia, exhaustion and dehydration, which caused him to give up.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Sherpa aka Ang Dawa, "Dhaulagiri Dawa", 7/12/59, Walung, Makalu-9, 
      Cho Oyu X5, Dhaulagiri X2-3
    Lhakpa Sonam, 7/6/81, Kharikhola, Solu, Cho Oyu 19/5/07


expid: ANN110105
peakid: ANN1
year: 2010
route1: N Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Oh Eun-Sun
sponsor: 2010 Oh's Annapurna Expedition
ascent1: 53rd
bcdate: 2010-04-04
smtdate: 2010-04-27
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2010-05-01
campsites: BC(04/04,4100m),C1(07/04,5100m),C2(17/04,5600m),C3(23/04,6400m),C4(26/04,6500m),Smt(27/04)
achievment: Miss Oh's 14th 8000er
agency: Korean Treks & Expeditions
routememo:
  The team's route on the North Face was the same as that established by the Spanish expedition led by Miss Edurne Pasaban, which went east of the Dutch Rib.

  Their BC at 4100m consisted of 50 tents, most of which were occupied by Korean television personnel and equipment. The Portuguese climber, Joao Garcia, said he had never seen such a well equipped TV studio anywhere in the world. He added that at this BC was a banner listing the expedition's sponsors; the largest was Korean TV and the total of the sponsors support was seven million dollars.

  Miss Oh's team established C1 on 7 April at 5100m and returned to it on the 14th. On the 14th, an avalanche hit some Spaniards in Carlos Pauner's expedition, so on the 15th Oh's members descended unhurt to BC.

  On the 17th they went from BC past C1 to pitch C2 at 5600m. The next day they returned to BC to rest. Then there were several days of snowfall that kept them in BC.

  On the 22nd they started their push for the summit. They again went directly to C2 and on the 23rd climbed to C3, which they pitched at 6400m.

  On the 24th they retreated to C1 because of snowfall and very cold wind. But next day they returned to C2, and on the 26th they climbed from C2 to C4, which they pitched rather low, at 6500m. They fixed 400m of rope between C3 and C4 and above C4 because some of Pasaban's ropes were buried under the new snow.

  On the 27th the summit party left C4 at 2 am, when it was dark, cold and very windy. They were Cheong, Oh, Ra with three Sherpas, Dawa Wangchuk, Pema Tshering and Chhiji Nurbu. From their low C4, they needed 13 hours to gain the summit at 3:00 pm. They went to the farthest left (east) bump on the top.

  Miss Oh said when she was on the top, "My condition no good." She was extremely cold and snow as being blown about by the wind. When she finally got back to C4 with the other summiters at 9:30 pm, she was very tired and immediately flopped down on her back in her tent and waited for tea to be brought to her.

  On the 28th, the three Korean summiters and two of the Sherpa summiters spent the night in C1, while Chhiji Nurbu descended to BC. On the 29th, everyone was in BC. On 1 May, the team flew by helicopter to Pokhara, where they remained for two days before returning to Kathmandu.

  Oxygen:

  Miss Oh and the three Sherpas used none at all. The two other Korean summiters, who were taking pictures, used in from C4 to the top to but not in C4.

  Sherpas:
    Chhiji Nurbu, 30/7/80 (15/4/2037), Upper Walung, Makalu-9, Annapurna I X1, 
      Makalu X1
    Dawa Wangchuk, 17/12/72 (3/9/2029), Mathilow, Walung, Makalu-9, Kangch X4, 
      Everest X3, Dhaulagiri X1, Manaslu X1, etc
    Pema Tshering, 16/6/70 (2/3/2027), Mathilow, Walung, Makalu-9, Everest X3, 
      Dhaulagiri I X2, Kangchenjunga X1, Lhotse X1


expid: ANN110106
peakid: ANN1
year: 2010
route1: S Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Park Young-Seok
sponsor: 2010's Park's Annapurna South Face Expedition
bcdate: 2010-03-29
smtdate: 2010-04-12
termdate: 2010-05-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to continuous bad weather
campsites: BC(29/03,4250m),ABC(07/04,5150m),xxx(12/04,6100m)
accidents: Kang's injured knee
agency: Villa Everest
routememo:
  BC at north end of South Annapurna Glacier
  C1 at bottom of face.
  High point at bottom of face.

  Three members went up the Bonington route to acclimatize before the team attempted to pioneer a new route east of it in an alpine-style ascent. From ABC, Jin and Shin reached 6100m on 12 April and returned to BC on the 13th.

  Kang had been with Jin and Shin to 5600m, where he was hit on the knee by a falling stone, which cut skin and muscle. He was evacuated by helicopter to Kathmandu and was to have an operation in South Korea.

  This was all the climbing the expedition did. Every day in the afternoon, week and after week, fresh snow fell, and they finally abandoned any idea of climbing the mountain. They had arrived at BC on 29 March; they left on 15 May.

  Park wants to return in the autumn to make a serious attempt on his proposed new line up the South Face.


expid: ANN110107
peakid: ANN1
year: 2010
route1: N Face
nation: Iran
leaders: Amir Hossein Partovinia
sponsor: Iranian to Annapurna I
approach: Beni
bcdate: 2010-04-09
smtdate: 2010-04-13
termdate: 2010-05-16
termnote: Abandoned at 6370m due to dangerous avalanche conditions
campsites: BC(09/04,4025m),C1(11/04,5200m),C2(12/04,5750m),C3(13/04,6770m),xxx(13/04,6370m)
accidents: Avalanche, bruised body
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  High Point: 13th April 6370m.

  On 22nd April, Partovinia was caught in an avalanche just below C3 at about 6000m. He was on his way to C3 when the avalanche hit at about 7 am. On the left-hand side of the slope, three Sherpas from the South Korean team were walking up, however, they only got dusted.

  When Partovinia saw the avalanche coming, he threw away his backpack and put a facemask on his mouth (luckily he had time to do that). When the avalanche hit, he was swept down the mountain for about 300m. He managed to "swim" in the avalanche and stayed more or less on top so he could dig himself out. Nobody else got caught in the avalanche. He descended to base camp afterwards, but he was in a lot of pain and it took him 7 hours to get there.

  He stayed in BC for about ten days during the bad weather period. On 11th May he went back up to 6000m and fixed some rope just below C3, the place where the avalanche hit. After he did that he went back to base camp.

  On 14th May he tried another summit push and reached C2. He stayed one night at C2 but decided that there was too much snow and it was too dangerous. On 15th he descended to base camp and decided to abandon the expedition due to avalanche danger. He left BC on 16th May.

  When I asked him whether he was following Edurne Pasaban's new route, he said he thought so.


expid: ANN110108
peakid: ANN1
year: 2010
route1: N Face via different lines above C4
nation: Poland
leaders: Piotr Pustelnik
sponsor: International Expedition to Pumori & Annapurna I
ascent1: 51st,52nd
countries: Portugal, Romania, Russia, Slovakia, Spain
bcdate: 2010-04-10
smtdate: 2010-04-17
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2010-05-01
othersmts: Attempted Pumori (PUMO-101-03)
campsites: BC(10/04,4200m),C1(5200m),C2(5600m),C3(6400m),C4(6970m),Smt(17,27/04)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Pustelnik described this group as one expedition composed of five teams. Their members were:

  1. Joao Garcia
  2. Ms. Kinga Baranowska and Horia Colibasanu
  3. Sergei Bogomolov and Evgeni Vinogradski
  4. Peter Hamor and Piotr Pustelnik
  5. Jorge Egocheaga and Martin Ramos

  The first four teams arrived at Annapurna I BC on 10 April [after acclimatizing on Pumori]. The fifth team, the Spaniards, Egocheaga and Ramos, who had not acclimatized on Pumori, had arrived separately on 28 March.

  The teams moved with other teams sometimes, separately at other times, and a members of one team did not always move with the other members. All of them didn't even follow the same line above 7950m.

  Joao Garcia was a fast climber and, spurred on by his ambition to reach his 14th 8000m summit, quickly moved ahead of all the others. He had arrived at BC with most of the others on 10 April. He never slept in C1 or C2. He made a deposit of supplies at 5600m, the site for C2, on the 13th from BC and returned to BC. On the 15th, with weather expected to remain good to the 17th, Garcia left BC at 6:00am, climbed to C2 site, picked up his cache, went on to 6400m and at 6:00 pm made his first high altitude camp there, one hour below where Miss Pasaban's Spaniards had pitched their C3. Without any Sherpa helping to carry his load, he used ropes fixed by Pasaban's team.

  On the 16th Garcia left C3 at 8:00 am, met Pasaban's members and Sherpas halfway to C4 and arrived at C4 with them at 4:00 pm. On 17 April, he left C4 for the top at 4:20 am with the four members and three Sherpas of Pasaban's team. These eight climbers reached the summit within five minutes of each other around 1:30 pm. Pasaban had her 13th 8000er and Garcia his 14th. They all returned to C4 at 6 pm. Garcia went down on the 18th to C2, where he spent the night with Hamor and Pustelnik; they helped him carry his loads to BC on the 19th, and he left BC on the 22nd for Pokhara by helicopter and flew by scheduled flight the same day to Kathmandu.

  The other members of the expedition were well behind Garcia and made their summit bids ten days after his. Pustelnik and Hamor stayed together, and sometime moved with the others. They occupied C1 on 13 April, and according to Garcia, Pustelnik slipped going down from C1 and fell on his ribs but was unhurt. Hamor and Pustelnik went to C2 on the 24th, moved to C3 the next day and to C4 on the 26th.

  Finally they left C4 on the 27th for the top with all the other members (except, of course, Garcia, who had already summited) between 2:00 and 2:30 am. Not everyone used the same line from here to the summit; Pustelnik, who started using oxygen from C4, and Hamor followed the Pasaban route and were on top at 1:45 pm. Hamor returned to C4 at 5:00 pm while Pustelnik was an hour behind him and switched off the oxygen when he reached camp. They went down to C2 on the 28th and to BC on the 29th.

  Egocheaga and Ramos never slept in C1 or C2 but they did some acclimatization climbing on Annapurna I before joining the others to stay in C3 on 25 April and in C4 on the 26th. On the 27th Colibasanu joined them in leaving C4 at 2:30 am and traversing eastward onto the East Ridge at 7950m and following the ridge to the top, but his teammate, Kinga Baranowska, went for the top with Hamor and Pustelnik via the Pasaban route.

  Egocheaga, Ramos and Colisbasanu left C4 at 2:30 am. Egocheaga and Ramos climbed very fast and got ahead of Colisbasanu, but Colisbasanu managed to catch up with them at about 9:30 am and they summited together at 11:40 am, well ahead of the others. The three climbers descended the East Ridge to 7950m, then down the face to 7450m and back onto the Pasaban route. Egocheaga and Ramos were back in C4 at 1:30 pm and Colibasanu joined him there at 2:00 pm, at about the same time as others were reaching the top.

  Colisbasanu stayed on in C4 to help in the effort to rescue a Spaniard, Tolo Calafat, a member of Carlos Pauner's expedition. He was not found (see report on Pauner's team), despite the flight of a helicopter during the search for him. Colibasanu was delivered to BC on the 29th by this helicopter, left BC on the 30th or 31st and returned  to Kathmandu on 7 May.

  Ms Baranowska, who went for the top with Hamor and Pustelnik via the Pasaban route, had not slept in C1, but moved up from C2 on the 24th, C3 on the 25th, C4 on the 26th, summited at 2:00 pm on the 27th and went back to C4 with Pustelnik at 6:00 pm. She descended to C1 on the 28th and to BC on the 29th.

  Bogomolov and Vinogradski stayed together through-out almost all of their climb except on the summit day. They occupied C1 on the 12 April and C2 on the 13th. They occupied C3 for the first time on the 25th at the same time as the others. Then their movements are uncertain, and with the very limited capability in English, the other members could only report where they were seen and when.

  In the push for the summit, Bogomolov was seen by Pustelnik moving up behind the Spanish group led by Carlos Pauner, who summited at 4:00 pm, who in turn had summited after Miss Oh's Korean party. Bogomolov was again seen descending between the Pauner and Oh teams. He apparently had made a short traverse diagonally on the left to the East Ridge and stayed on the ridge for the very last part of his ascent to the top. Colibasanu saw him with the mainstream of summiters going up to 7000m, but did not see him again.

  When he started up the East Ridge at about 10 am, Colibasanu saw Vinogradski coming up alone at about 7650m, and met him at 7950m at about 12:20 pm as Vinogradski was going up and he, Egocheaga and Ramos were descending from the summit. Colibasanu met him once more at 12:30 pm; Vinogradski was descending at about 100m vertical meters (200 linear meters) below the summit. Asked whether he had gotten to the top, Vinogradski answered that the summit was not important; he had turned back because his nose was freezing, a strange reply because when a man's nose is freezing, he rubs it vigorously, but Vinogradski was not rubbing his. Colibasanu believes Vinogradski was developing cerebral edema, a diagnosis reinforced when he was found digging in the snow for his tent before getting to C4 at 4:00 pm or a bit later. He had actually lain outside his tent for awhile, explaining that it was full of people (it was, in fact, empty). He claimed he had summited at 2:00 pm, but Barnowska, who was there at 2:00 pm, did not see him. Carlos Pauner, the Spanish leader whose team also summited on the 27th, "saw Evgeny trying to follow Jorje (Egocheaga) and Martin (Ramos) by the ridge, but he could not and they help him to go down 200 meters before summit, sure."

  Bogomolov arrived in C4 at 7 pm or so, and next morning he was going up to look for his jumar.  He fell during this ten minute long search but wasn't hurt; he too appeared to be suffering from cerebral edema. He said he had gotten to the summit at 4:00 pm, but according to Pauner, who summited at 4:00 pm, "he went just behind me all route up to begin of corridor (final couloir below summit). There, it was the last time I saw him. I didn't see him at summit and I did not cross him going down, so I don't know what he did exactly."

  The two Russians were given oxygen during the night of 27-28 April from the bottle Pustelnik had used to reach the summit; there was only one bottle available, so the oxygen was administered to them alternatively that night in C4. They descended to C2 on the 28th and BC on the 29th. They flew to Kathmandu by the helicopter that brought back most of the expedition's members on the 1st of may and left Nepal on the 3rd.

  Oxygen was used by Pustelnik from C4 to top only. It was given to Bogomolov and Vinogradski in C4 during the night of 27-28 April.


expid: ANN110109
peakid: ANN1
year: 2010
route1: N Face (German route)
nation: Ecuador
leaders: Santiago Quintero
sponsor: Ecuadorian Annapurna Expedition
approach: Kathmandu->Pokhara by car; Pokhara->BC by helicopter
bcdate: 2010-04-16
smtdate: 2010-04-25
termdate: 2010-05-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6550m due to Quintero's knee problem
campsites: BC(16/04,4400m),C1(17/04,5000m),C2(17/04,5600m),C3(23/04,6550m),xxx(25/04,6550m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Quintero and Pema started their summit bid from BC to C2 on 14 May. When they reached at 6000m on 15 May Quintero suffered from knee pain and went down to BC same day. BC was covered with two meters of snow. Snowfall remained on 14, 15th and 16 May. Weather was good. Quintero returned to Kathmandu on 17 May by helicopter. 

  German route (1980) leads a bit east of the Dutch Rib and then directly to Central Summit.

  Fixed rope: 50m between C2 & C3.

  Sherpa:
    Pema Dorje, 17/10/74 (1/7/2031), Waku-9


expid: ANN310101
peakid: ANN3
year: 2010
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Nick Bullock
sponsor: British Annapurna III Southeast Ridge Expedition
agency: Loben Expeditions
routememo:
  The team's departure from Kathmandu was delayed by several days by the failure of their third member Peter Benson to join them. He was struck in England by a ban for days on all flights because of Icelandic volcanic ash in the sky; in fact, he was able to book seats from London to Kathmandu so late, then Bullock had to email him not to come at all because of the two members problems on their trek to BC.

  Bullock and Helliker went by road from Kathmandu to Pokhara and a village beyond, Paribas, on 20 April and started on their trek to BC the same day via the Seti Khola. They left without items Benson was supposed to bring from England: Helliker's boots, satellite phone, bivvy tent and solar chargers.

  They had to contend with heavy rainfall and hailstones every day and porters and replacement porters frequent defections. They encountered a snow-covered col leading up to to a steep technical ridge, and finally 50m of a steep glaciated wall of rubble. They called a halt to their aproach march at the wall on 23 April.

  They were back in Pokhara on 25 April and in Kathmandu the 27th. But they were already planning a return attempt in October with a helicopter flight from Pokhara to BC. During this very expensive recce they had seen nothing of the mountain, but had learned that the original way to BC for the SE Ridge had become impossible.


expid: APIM10101
peakid: APIM
year: 2010
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Diego Wellig
sponsor: Swiss Api Himal Expedition
bcdate: 2010-04-18
smtdate: 2010-05-01
termdate: 2010-05-04
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(18/04,4300m),C1(21/04,5300m),C2(26/04,6050m),xxx(01/05,6500m)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  The expedition was plagued by bad weather: 14 days of snowfall.

  The three members and four Sherpas made their push for the summit starting from BC on 29 April and slept that night in C1. They moved up to C2 on the 30th, and went for the top on 1 May. They reached 6500m and then turned back because of deep snow under foot and "windy, stormy" weather, said Maass, and it would have taken them perhaps six hours more to get to the summit.

  They retreated to C2 and used their satellite phone to consult a meterological forecast office in Switzerland. They were informed that there wuld be more snowfall next day and bad weather was on the way. They abandoned the climb.

  The most difficult part of the climb via the NW Ridge was between BC and C1, where they fixed 250m of rope. There was a couloir and a steep mixed snow and ice face.

  A helicopter picked them up from BC on 4 May and delivered them to Kathmandu.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Sherpa, 22/4/65 (10/1/2022), Makalu-9
    Mingma Gyabu, 26/8/87 (10/5/2044), Lelep-9, Taplejung
    Na Dorje, 19/12/75 (4/9/2032), Makalu-9, Everest X1
    Ringji Lama Sherpa, 27/8/87 (11/5/2044), Makalu-5


expid: BARU10101
peakid: BARU
year: 2010
route1: SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Ben Clark
sponsor: Ski the Himalayas
bcdate: 2010-04-22
smtdate: 2010-04-25
termdate: 2010-05-02
termnote: Abandoned at 6250m due to Clark's accident
campsites: BC(22/04,5420m),C1(25/04,6240m),xxx(25/04,6240m)
agency: Mountain Tribes Trekking
routememo:
  BC near lake
  C1 just across West Col via south face of Col.

  Three days later after having established BC near the lake at the normal site, the team climbed up to the West Col south of the usual route and pitched C1 just over the Col (on its east side).

  On the 26th, they went up from C1 to reconnoitre to way to C2, and to give Miller the opportunity to check whether the sensitive condition of the back of his neck was reacting adversely to altitude (it wasn't). They returned to BC to sleep.

  They rested two days in BC, then packed up and were ready to go back to C1 on the 29th, planning to spend that night in C1, climb up to C2 the next day and go for the summit on 1 May. Clark had just put his backpack on his shoulders, ready to leave, when his right foot struck a rock, he fell over and a minor bone in his ankle was cracked. He was left with no mobility in the ankle. The climb was over.


expid: BHRS10101
peakid: BHRS
year: 2010
route1: N Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
sponsor: Tirawa Bhrikuti Expedition
ascent1: 3rd
bcdate: 2010-03-16
smtdate: 2010-03-18
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2010-03-19
campsites: BC(16/03,5450m),C1(17/03,5800m),Smt(18/03)
agency: Himalayan Society
routememo:
  BC near Bawa Khola north of mountain
  C1 on border ridge close to pt 5843 on HMG map.

  The expedition approached Bhrikuti [Sail] from the north and made their BC on 16 March at 5450m near the Bawa Khola and very near pt. 5430 on HMG map. They moved south-southeast to Bhrikuti's North Ridge, which forms the border with China, and which Grobel considers the easiest route on Bhrikuti. They placed their high camp on the 17th on the ridge at 5800m close to pt 5843 on HMG map.

  From this camp, the entire team set out for the summit at 5:30 am on 18th March. Their route to the top was along the north of camp. But when they had gone only 50 meters in ten minutes out of camp, Chevalier and Duchateau turned back because they were not feeling well. The remaining eight members and their three Sherpas (who were officially members of the expedition, according to the Nepalese government's requirement for Bhrikuti teams) continued on towards the top.

  While most of the team reached the top at 8:00 am, Filippucci, who was a slow climber, suddenly had a neurological episode, a stroke, when he was at 6300m, very near the summit, at 9:00 am. This affected the right side of his body. He was helped down to high camp by Grobel, who met him on Grobel's descent from the top, and by Tashi Temba.

  The summit party of Bonodeau, Cruon, Grobel, Mathey, Montanari, Princip, Rubichon, Pasang Gyalzen and Chhotemba moved down through their high camp at 12:00 noon and arrived in BC at 2:30 pm. Filippucci descended to BC on horseback and also reached there at 2:30; he recovered that afternoon and was evacuated to Kathmandu by helicopter from Gami village in Manang. (He had another stroke a week later, but still survived. He had another stroke a week later but still survived. He expected to leave Nepal on 2 May, one day after the other member and two days before Grobel was scheduled to leave for Tibet to climb a small mountain near Lhasa.)

  Sherpas:
    Chhotemba Sherpa, 29/9/74 he says, Makalu-9, no 8000ers
    Pasang Gyalzen, 30/7/81, Walung, Makalu-9, no 8000ers
    Tashi Temba, 18/5/66 (5/2/2023), Makalu-9, no 8000ers


expid: BHRS10102
peakid: BHRS
year: 2010
route1: S Face
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Robert Eckhardt
sponsor: Dutch Expedition to Bhrikuti Sail
ascent1: 4th,5th
approach: Besisahar->Jagat->Koto->Meta->Junam->Phu->Ngaru
smtdate: 2010-05-15
smttime: 1300
othersmts: Climbed Saribung
campsites: BC(5000m),ABC(5240m),Smt(15-16/05)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  Van der Meulen and Pasang Kaji started from ABC. They reached summit at 13:00 hours on 15 May, stayed on summit for 15 minutes. 

  Robert Eckhardt, Annette Spelt, Niels Weijsenfeld, Ang Gyalzen and Furu Sona started from ABC. They reached summit at 13:30 hours on 16 May, stayed on summit for 15 minutes.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Geljen Sherpa, 14/2/79 (2/11/2035), Kharikhola, Jubing-1, Solu
    Pasang Kaji, 31/12/65 (15/01/2022), Jubing-8, Pangkoma, Solu
    Furu Sona Sherpa, 7/3/90 (24/11/2046(, Jubing-8, Pangkoma, Solu


expid: CHOY09359
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: Bangladesh
leaders: Mohammad Abdul Mohit
sponsor: Bangla Expedition to Cho Oyu
approach: By road from Kathmandu
bcdate: 2009-09-14
smtdate: 2009-09-27
smttime: 0845
termdate: 2009-09-30
campsites: BC(14/09,4860m),ABC(17/09,5700m),C1(21/09,6400m),C2(26/09,7200m),Smt(27/09)
accidents: Onu suffered from altitude sickness and never went above ABC
agency: Adventure Extreme
routememo:
  Onu suffered from altitude sickness and never went above ABC.

  Oxygen used by only Mohit, from C2 to top to C2.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Rita, 31/8/79, Beding, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X4
    Mingma Tshering, 26/9/82, Beding, Everest X2


expid: CHOY10101
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: Australia
leaders: Gregory Miller
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-04-11
smtdate: 2010-04-26
termdate: 2010-05-09
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to stomach problems
campsites: BC(11/04,4900m),ABC(14/04,5500m),C1(18/04,6400m),xxx(26/04,7200m)
agency: Solukhumbu Treks/Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Team left C1 at 7:30 am. Nice morning, but wind came up later. As this was the acclimatization trip, they descended to C1 and next day to ABC. On 1 May Miller was supposed to ascend again, but got sick with a stomach bug and descended to Chinese BC. After he had calculated his days left at the expedition, he decided that he did not have time to go back up.

  Hired:
    Man Bahadur Tamang, Salleri-5, Solu, 1959


expid: CHOY10102
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: Bulgaria
leaders: Rumen Metodiev
sponsor: Bulgarian on Cho Oyu
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-04-11
smtdate: 2010-04-22
termdate: 2010-05-09
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to broken crampon
campsites: BC(11/04,4900m),ABC(19/04,5500m),C1(20/04,6400m),xxx(22/04,6500m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Metodiev reached about 6500m and then his crampon broke. He returned to ABC and stayed there for rest of expedition. His English was not very good, so communication was difficult.


expid: CHOY10103
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: Canada
leaders: Sebastien La Pointe
sponsor: Asian Trekking Everest North 2010
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-04-11
smtdate: 2010-05-06
termdate: 2010-05-09
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to no ropes fixed, ran out of time
campsites: BC(11/04,4900m),ABC(14/04,5500m),C1(20/04,6400m),C2(04/05,7100m),xxx(06/05,7500m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Team left C2 at 7 am on 5th May. They had spent two nights at C2 as they were hoping that the rope would be fixed by then. It took them about three hours to get to C3. Conditions were good and weather was sunny and clear, not windy. When they got to C3 they noticed that the rope was not fixed and as they did not have any rope or any climbing gear themselves.

  They contemplated to go up for about one hour and when they noticed that they could not get over the Yellow Band they decided to turn back.

  They descended to C1 and broke down their camp at C2. They arrived at C1 at about 5 pm. The next day they descended to ABC.

  They left ABC on 9th May and drove straight to Zangmu on that day.


expid: CHOY10104
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: Malaysia
leaders: Ravichandran Tharumalingam
sponsor: Malaysian on Cho Oyu
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-04-11
smtdate: 2010-05-03
termdate: 2010-05-09
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to no ropes fixed above C3
campsites: BC(11/04,4900m),ABC(14/04,5500m),C1(20/04,6400m),xxx(03/05,7100m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Team left C1 at 7:30 am. It was a very warm day. When they reached C2 they heard that the Sherpas, who were supposed to fix the rope, only fixed to C3. They immediately turned back and slept at camp 1.5 at about 7000m. (above serac). The following day they stayed at C1. They reached ABC on 6 May.

  Sherpa:
    Nawang Tenzing (Nawangle) Sherpa, Phortse, 1/3/60, Everest X3, Lhotse X2


expid: CHOY10105
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: Argentina
leaders: Jorge Eduardo Gonzalez
sponsor: Argentinians to Cho Oyu
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-04-13
smtdate: 2010-04-28
termdate: 2010-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to no fixed rope and bad weather forecast
campsites: BC(13/04,4900m),ABC(16/04,5500m),C1(25/04,6400m),C2(28/04,7000m),xxx(28/04,7000m)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Team took about 8 hours from C1 to C2. It was very windy and it was snowing. They stayed for two nights and descended to ABC.

  The second time they ascended to C2 on 4 May. They arrived at 5 pm. The weather was too windy and no rope was fixed. They descended to BC on 5 May. After contemplating, what to do they received weather forecast which was too bad to carry on.


expid: CHOY10106
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: Austria
leaders: Christian Schnoell
sponsor: Austrian Cho Oyu Expedition 2010
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-04-23
smtdate: 2010-05-04
termdate: 2010-05-16
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to too much wind
campsites: BC(23/04,4900m),ABC(26/04,5500m),C1(03/05,6400m),xxx(04/05,7100m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  High Point: 7100m on 4 May.

  Gerhardter, Schnoell, Schweiger and Zietit left C1 at 10:30 am. It was a warm and calm day. Snow conditions good. They set up camp at C2 and descended to C1 to stay the night there.

  Schnoell, Schweiger and Ziettl went back up to C2 to dismantle the both camps as they had decided to abandon the expedition due to bad weather. They descended to ABC afterwards to pack up and leave.

  Prugger reached 6600m on 4th May. He turned back as he was not feeling very well. He descended to C1 where he stayed another night. The following day he descended to ABC, where he stayed for the rest of the expedition.


expid: CHOY10107
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Erwin Jacomet
sponsor: Alpinus Cho Oyu Expedition
countries: Germany
bcdate: 2010-04-19
smtdate: 2010-04-30
termdate: 2010-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to bad weather forecasts
campsites: BC(19/04,5000m),ABC(22/04,5500m),C1(25/04,6400m),C2(30/04,7100m),xxx(30/04,7100m)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  High Point: 7100m 30 April.

  Brill, Jacomet, Schuler and Walker left C1 at 8 am on 30 April. Weather warm and calm. Good conditions. They spent one night at C2 for acclimatization and descended to ABC the following day. They had finished their acclimatization process and waited for the weather to improve for the summit push.

  However, the high winds did not abate and on 11 May the team decided to abandon the expedition due to bad weather forecast and they were running out of time.

  Dannecker's highest point was C1. He reached it for the first time on 25 April, and in total the whole team reached C1 four times. When the team went to C2 on 20 April he did not join them as they were thinking of starting their summit push at that time and that would have been too early for him.

  However, when the high point team reached C2, they decided that they were not ready for the summit and descended back to ABC.


expid: CHOY10108
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Javier Bermejo
sponsor: Aoiz Cho Oyu 2010
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-04-17
smtdate: 2010-04-28
termdate: 2010-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(17/04,4900m),ABC(21/04,5500m),C1(26/04,6400m),C1.5(28/04,6800m),xxx(28/04,6800m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  High Point: 6800m 28th April.

  Jimenez, Iriguibel and Bermejo were on their way to C2, but stopped at intermediary camp as it was too windy to carry on. The next day they descended to ABC as the winds were too strong.

  Eugui and Ripodas reached 6700m on 30 April on their way up to intermediate camp at 6800m. However, the wind was too strong for them to carry on all the way to the camp. They returned to ABC that day.

  On 11th May, Jimenez and Iriguibel ascended again to intermediary camp to collect the tents from there and C1.

  They left ABC on 14th May and returned to Kathmandu on 15th May.


expid: CHOY10109
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Eric Remza
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Cho Oyu Expedition 2010
countries: Australia
bcdate: 2010-04-13
smtdate: 2010-05-17
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2010-05-09
campsites: BC(13/04,4724m),ABC(17/04,5639m),C1(22/04,6400m),C2(15/05,7040m),C3(16/05,7467m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Beyul Adventure
routememo:
  C1 was established on 22 April and then all down to ABC. On the 28th C1 was reoccupied, and an attempt to establish C2 on the 29th was foiled at the top of the first ice cliff (6800m) by strong wind and snowfall, and the climbers retreated to ABC.

  By the first of May, four members had left the expedition. McEachern never got above BC because of a digestive problem; he returned to Kathmandu on 19 April and left Nepal the next day. Pelizzoni managed to get to C1, then found the climb was too much for him, and he returned to Kathmandu on 26 April and left Nepal on the 27th. His good friend, Gears, got only to ABC and decided to leave with Pelizzoni. McGahan climbed 150m above C1, decided he was not strong enough for this climb, and he returned to Kathmandu on 1 May, left Nepal on 2 May.

  On 3 May the remaining four members went back to C1 hoping to carry on higher. But in the morning of the 4th, the sky looked ominous, and Remza decided they had better return to ABC; they did.

  It snowed every day from the 5th to the 8th, creating white-out conditions. The reduced team trekked down to Shegar village to get to a lower altitude. On the 10th they took a long day's drive from Shegar to Everest BC and and on to Tingri village and its hot spring.

  They went back to their ABC on the 11th and stayed there until the 14th, when they returned to C1. It was extremely windy that night, and no one got more than two hours sleep. The next day they headed up to C2 but at 6700m, at the base of the first ice cliff, McMartin turned around. She had had enough and went back to ABC. The other three established C2 at about 7000m.

  The final dropout was Hedberg, who turned back on the 16th on their way to make C3; he got to about 7000m and was too exhausted to continue. That left only two members, Lane and Remza, out of the original eight, to set up C3 and go for the top the next day.

  Lane and Remza, Panuru Sherpa and a Tibetan, Pingtso, left C3 at 2:00 am (NST) in their summit bid. They arrived at the summit at 8:00 am, had a fine view of Everest and Lhotse, and then descended. They stopped to rest at C3 and again at C2 but continued to C1, where they arrived at 5:00 pm.

  They were in ABC on the 18th. Lane and Remza drove to Tingri on the 19th and to Kathmandu on the 20th.

  Panuru said that in his 12 climbs on the mountain, he had never seen Cho Oyu so dry, and the head of IMG, Eric Simonson, back in the USA said, when he saw pictures of the mountain as the team it, he, too, had never seen it so dry. Panuru pointed out that a snowfield, that was normally an important part of the climb, had completely melted away; Remza said they saw ice screws lying on the dry shale surface. There had been a lot of snowfall in April and May, but the winds had blown it away.

  Oxygen was used by Lane and Remza in their summit push from C2 all the way to the top and down to C1. Sherpas and Tibetans used none.

  Hired:
    Panuru Sherpa, 22/5/68, Phortse, Everest X8, Cho Oyu X3
    Pingtso, about 35-36 years old, came from Shegar, summited Cho Oyu X3


expid: CHOY10111
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Francisco Mich
sponsor: Italian Cho Oyu Expedition
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 2010-04-25
smtdate: 2010-05-17
termdate: 2010-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 8175m due to snowing bad weather
campsites: BC(25/04,4835m),ABC(25/04,5700m),C1(03/05,6440m),C2(16/05,7135m),xxx(17/05,8175m)
accidents: Fabrizio Defrancesco's cerebral edema; Fabrizio Bartoli ear problems
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  High point at summit plateau.

  Three members, Amort, Felicetti and Giongo, arrived at ABC later than the others, on 4 May instead of 25 April, and stayed later, until 27 May instead of 21 May.

  The mountain was very dry. It was "completely rock above C3 (sites)."

  The climbers spent the time from 3 May, when C1 was established, to the 16th, when they made C2, moving up and down the mountain, acclimatizing and carrying laods up to C2's site at 7135m. (They had only one Sherpa for 12 members.)

  The team did not pitch any C3 because its site was too close to C2 and these climbers were fast. However, not all members agreed that there should be no C3 since that meant C2 was 1000m below the summit; furthermore, on the summit plateau there was a considerable linear distance to be crossed to reach the highest point.

  The expedition made two serious bids and one aborted attempt to reach the summit. On 17 May Dado, Montolli and Orlando left C2 at 3:15 am (NST). Orlando turned back at 8031m, just below the plateau, because he had no more strength. He managed to reach C2 alone at 6:00 pm. Dado and Montolli got onto the plateau. Montolli made the mistake of turning left on the plateau while Dado went straight ahead. Snow started falling, and they wandered around for an hour separately, not seeing each other, from about 6:00 pm. They got back to C2 at 10:30-11:00 pm. All three descended to ABC the next day.

  Two other members, Mich and Valentini, made their attempt to summit from C2 by leaving at 1:30am on 22 May. Mich gave up at about 7700m around 5:00 am. Valentini climbed very fast, and Mich, trying to keep up with him, became too tired to continue. Valentini himself turned around at about 7900m at 5:00 am when his toes were getting very cold. they descended to ABC, where they arrived at about 4:30 pm.

  The three who had joined the others somewhat late, Amort, Felicetti and Giongo, stayed on at ABC after the rest of the team had left, hoping the weather would be good enough for them to make their own summit bid. They climbed from ABC to C1 on the 22nd and went on to C2 the next day. But now it was snowing, so on the 24th they abandoned the effort and returned to ABC.

  Other members:

  Bartoli went up to C1 on about 2 May, developed a serious ear problem, and left the expedition on 4 May.

  Carpano got to C1 three or four times, but was too tired to climb higher and spent most of his time in ABC.

  When Defrancesco descended to ABC from C1 on 10 May. He had cerebral edema and left the team the same day.

  Defrancesco was the only one to use oxygen. The expedition had taken no oxygen with them, so a bottle was bought for him from another team. He used it from ABC down to 5300m, where a vehicle picked him up and drove him to the Nepalese border.


expid: CHOY10112
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Chris Szymiec
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Cho Oyu Expedition 2010
countries: Canada, Ireland, Luxembourg
bcdate: 2010-04-30
smtdate: 2010-05-24
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2010-05-27
campsites: BC(30/04,4900m),ABC(03/05,5700m),C1(08/05,6400m),C2(11/05,7150m),C3(23/05,7500m),Smt(24/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Three members Koch, Malber and Woodman, left the expedition on 13 May because they were not acclimatizing well and they had had enough. The other three got to the top.

  The three successful ones, Lally, Long and Szymiec, with two Sherpas, Lhakpa Sherpa and Pasang Bhote, began their summit push from ABC on 21 May and climbed to C1. On the 22nd they moved up to C2, and the next day they established C3.

  They left C3 at 15 minutes past midnight of the 23/24 May (NST) and were on the summit between 7:00 am and 7:30 am of the 24th in warm weather with light wind. But it was snowing, and they had no view of other mountains from the top; they stood beside the collection of prayer flags and oxygen bottles that marked the summit.

  The five summiters returned to C2 at 6:00 pm and next day, the 25th, they were back in ABC. 

  Oxygen was used by Lally, Long and the two Sherpas from C3 to the top to C3. Szymiec's oxygen malfunctioned that day until he reached the summit, where the Sherpas restored the flow, and he then used oxygen from the top to C3.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Sherpa, 20/6/75, Sotang-6, Solu, no 8000ers
    Pasang Bhote, 19/5/86, Chepuwa-1, Makalu vdc, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X2


expid: CHOY10113
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Jae-Soo
sponsor: Colon Sport Cho Oyu-Annapurna Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-04-07
smtdate: 2010-04-25
termdate: 2010-04-27
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to high wind and snow
othersmts: Had permit for Annapurna I
campsites: BC(07/04,4500m),ABC(10/04,5700m),C1(14/04,6400m),C2(23/04,7100m),C3(24/04,7400m),xxx(25/04,8000m)
accidents: Frostbite both members noses, Kim's two right toes and fingers (but not serious)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 9 April at about 5100m
  High point at 8000m at the shoulder of summit plateau.

  Kim, Son and Ang Kami left C3 on 25 April at midnight (CST). It was windy. When they reached summit plateau shoulder wind started picking up, very strong wind. It was 6:30 am. It was not possible for the climbers to continue, so they descended to ABC same day. Kim team was the first one to attempt for summit this season. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 29 April. They plan to leave Kathmandu on 13 or 15 May for Annapurna I BC by helicopter.


expid: CHOY10114
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Maximo Kausch
sponsor: SummitClimb International Cho Oyu Expedition 2010
countries: Australia, Finland, USA
bcdate: 2010-04-30
smtdate: 2010-05-24
smttime: 1015
termdate: 2010-05-21
campsites: BC(30/04),ABC(02/05,5700m),C1(06/05,6400m),C2(10/05,7100m),C3(23/05,7520m),Smt(24/05)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  Holt, Kausch (the leader) and two Sherpas, Ang Gelu and Palden Nima, set out for the summit from C3 at 4:00 am (Chinese time) on 24 May. Ang Gelu arrived at the top at 12:30 pm (10:15 NST) while the others got there at 1:00 pm.

  They descended in a windy snowstorm and reached C3 at 4:30 pm. The next day, the 25th, they were back in ABC.

  Holt and the two Sherpas used no oxygen; Kausch used it from C3 to the top and back to C3.

  Non-summiting members:

  Graeffe went up to C2 twice, on 10 and 15 May, then down to ABC both times; when the summit party were on their way to the top and went to C3, she got to only 6600m, ran out of energy and retreated to ABC, where she stayed.

  Newton got to 5900m on 6 or 7 May; he had been seriously ill and was not acclimatizing; he turned around, descended to C1 and then to ABC, where he remained for the rest of the climbing period.

  Solari got to C1 on 8 May, was not acclimatizing, and the mountain was too much for him. He made no further attempts to climb above BC.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Gelu, 23/7/70, Surke, Chaurikharka-4, Solu, Everest X1
    Palden Nima, 29/8/78, Yaphu-9, Makalu, Everest X3


expid: CHOY10115
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: Russia
leaders: Alexander Shismov
sponsor: Independent on Cho Oyu
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-04-15
smtdate: 2010-05-04
termdate: 2010-05-17
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to very strong wind
campsites: BC(15/04,4300m),ABC(19/04,5700m),C1(22/04,6400m),C1.5(02/05,6800m),C2(04/05,7200m),xxx(04/05,7200m)
agency: Kamaz Travels (Monterosa Treks pmt)
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 18 April at 5300m.

  Shismov in his acclimatization process spent 12 days in C2. First few days Shismov and Rinjin waited in C2 to go to C3, but there was no fixed rope. Later days weather became bad, strong wind, and waited for weather to improve. Rinjin stayed in C2 for 8 days. 

  Shismov returned to Kathmandu on 18 May and will leave on 21 May.

  Hired:
    Rinjin Bhote, 26/6/67, Chepuwa-2, Sankhuwasabha, no 8000ers


expid: CHOY10110
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Lucia Lopez
sponsor: Cho Oyu International Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-04-14
smtdate: 2010-05-22
termdate: 2010-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 8049m due to tiredness and high wind
agency: Monterosa Treks
campsites:
  BC(14/04,5000m),ABC(18/04,5700m),C1(24/04,6400m),C1.5(02/05,6800m),C2(28/04,7150m),C3(21/05,7500m),xxx(22/05,8049m)

routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 17 April at 5300m.

  Lopez along with Lhakpa left C3 at 1 am NST for summit on 22 May. They reached 8049m at 5 pm. Lopez was climbing without supplementary oxygen. She was exhausted and decided to turn around. They arrived at C3 at 10 pm, spent the night there. Next day slept in C1 and the following day to ABC. Lopez left BC on 26 May and arrived Kathmandu on 27 May. She was to leave on 3 June.

  Ibero spent the night of 28 April at C2 at 7150m. Whole day there was high wind (more than 100km/h) and afternoon snowfall. Next day 29 April Ibero descended to ABC. He left BC on 17 May and arrived Kathmandu on 18 and will leave on 21 May.

  Bonilla left BC on 28 April due to backache. No idea when left Kathmandu.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Sherpa, 25/9/85 (9/6/2042), Champalung, Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha, no 8000ers


expid: CHOY10116
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: Russia
leaders: Sergei Nikitin
sponsor: International Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-04-15
smtdate: 2010-05-02
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to unexplained death
campsites: BC(15/04,4300m),ABC(19/04,5700m),C1(6400m),C1.5(02/05,6800m),xxx(02/05,6800m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 18 April at 5500m.

  Nikitin was independent on the mountain. Since Shismov another Russian climber was also on the same permit, Nikitin was climbing with him. Both of them sleeping in one tent in the middle camp between C1-C2 (6800m). Shismov said in night on 2 May Nikitin told him that he had stomach pain. There was nothing abnormal with him except the stomach pain. Spanish climber Ms. Lopez and her Sherpa Lhakpa also were in the same camp. Next morning 3 May Shismov found Nikitin dead. The dead body was brought down to ABC on 16 May and to Kathmandu on 18 May.


expid: CHOY10301
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Adriano Favre
sponsor: Valle d'Aosta Campo Base Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 2010-09-07
smtdate: 2010-09-20
termdate: 2010-09-30
campsites: BC(07/09,4800m),ABC(10/09,5550m),C1(15/09,6400m),C2(20/09,7200m),xxx(20/09,7200m)
agency: Campobase Treks
termnote:
  Abandoned at 7200m due to high wind forecast above Yellow Band, bad condition of mountain, no fixed rope

routememo:
  In the process of acclimatization the team spent a night at C2 on 20 Sept and descended to ABC 21 Sept. The plan was to attempt for summit on 24 or 25 Sept. But the condition on mountain did not improve and no fixed ropes were put up above the Yellow Band. The Chinese team fixed the ropes between 15-20 Sept. An avalanche hit the rope team and a rescue team was sent up to bring down the injured members. A second time ropes were fixed by Sherpas around 25-26 Sept. This team too was hit by an avalanche. There were some injured Sherpas and a rescue team was sent up to bring down the injured members. After that no team tried to put up the fixed line. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 1 Oct. Leader will leave on 5 Oct. Members will leave on 14 Oct after Annapurna trek.


expid: DHA110101
peakid: DHA1
year: 2010
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Stephan Keck
sponsor: Alpinist at Dhaulagiri Ski Expedition
approach: Marpha->Damphus
bcdate: 2010-04-20
smtdate: 2010-04-29
termdate: 2010-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 6650m due to too much wind
campsites: BC(20/04,4650m),C1(25/04,5800m),C2(29/04,6650m),xxx(29/04,6650m)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  High Point: 6650m on 29th April.

  Team set up C2 on 28th April but did not stay the night there. It took them five hours to get from C1 to C2. They pitched their tent in high winds and descended to C1, where they spent the night. On 29th April, they ascended again to C2 to spend the night. The weather was good and warm in the morning, but winds picked up in the afternoon. The snow conditions on the mountain were good.

  On 30th April they descended to base camp, where they stayed until 6th May, when they spend another night at C1. They returned to BC on 1st May.

  On 10th May, they went back to C1, and on 11th May to C2, where they stayed another night. It snowed so hard during the night that they had to dig out their tent as it was almost completely covered in snow. They stayed up the whole night to shuffle snow.

  On 12th May they dismantled C2 and C1 and descended to base camp. They left base camp on 14th May.

  They had intended to use their skis on the mountain, however, due to the bad conditions and the high winds, they never got to use them.


expid: DHA110102
peakid: DHA1
year: 2010
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Richard Bolt
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Dhaulagiri Jubilaeums Expedition 2010
countries: Austria, Germany, Italy
approach: Darbang
bcdate: 2010-04-21
smtdate: 2010-04-29
termdate: 2010-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 6650m due to avalanche danger
campsites: BC(21/04,4650m),C1(25/04,5750m),C2(29/04,6650m),xxx(29/04,6650m)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  High Point: C2 by all members.

  When team climbed to C2, they left C1 at about 6 am and the conditions on the mountain were good. When they got to C2 about 5 hours later, they set up camp and stayed the night. The next day, they dismantled most tents and put them with their deposit into a couple of tents to protect them from the wind. They descended again to base camp.

  On 20th May, the whole team ascended again to C1 for the summit push. Weather was clear. On 21st May, they wanted to ascend to C2, however, it was very windy and the conditions on the mountain precarious (avalanche danger). At 6250m the team turned back and descended to base camp.

  Dendi, Tshering Bhote, Lila Sherpa and Phurba Sherpa carried on to C2; however, the tents had disappearred under the snow. They were looking for a while but could not find them. The members had some material, such as down suits inside the tents.

  Sherpas:
    Dendi, Deku, Taksindu-5, Solu, 22/1/83, Cho Oyu in 2007, Everest in 2009 
      with Karl Kobler, Ama Dablam
    Lila Bahadur Tamang, Khimrang, Sardikhola-5, Kaski, 15/10/66, Everest X2,
      Makalu X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Tshering Pande Bhote, Hungdung, Farang VDC, Sankhuwasabha, 20/2/78, Everest X5, 
      Cho Oyu X2
    Phurba Kusang, 6/12/73 (21/8/2030), Makalu-9


expid: DHA110103
peakid: DHA1
year: 2010
route1: NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Francois Marsigny
sponsor: Marsigny Dhaulagiri Expedition
approach: Via French Pass
bcdate: 2010-04-25
smtdate: 2010-04-27
termdate: 2010-04-29
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to bad weather and danger of serac fall
campsites: BC(25/04,4700m),C1(27/04,5800m),xxx(27/04,5800m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Tseringma Treks pmt)
routememo:
  Francois Marsigny in his email wrote that they went up to C1 on 27 April and slept. Next day to BC. The team gave up climbing Dhaulagiri due to bad weather and danger of serac fall between BC and C1.

  We arrived in BC 25 April from the French Pass. Its altitude is 4650m. The 27 April we went to C1 in 6 hours 15 minutes from BC. Altitude C1 around 5800m near to the pass. The 28 April we went down to BC and we left it on the 29 April. Maybe the shortest expedition of the history of Dhaulagiri.

  There was some fix rope below the Eigar to climb up an to traverse (around 1000m) and we used them. There was some few spots of fix ropes on the glacier, but we didn't use them.

  We decided to stop this expedition simply because it was too dangerous due to the serac falls between BC and C1. And because we were not enough acclimatized which obliged us to do it again and again (the weather was not good enough to stay in altitude to finish the acclimatization in one time). The day we climbed to C1 we saw avalanche and serac, fortunately not too big, and Gyelze Sherpa (our friend Sherpa) dropped his backpack and ran in the opposite direction to be safe. In case it would be bigger and few people Swiss and Sherpa would be seriously injured. Because I am mountain guide and instructor at the ENSA (National School of Ski and Alpinism in France), I couldn't accept that kind of risk for relative, my wife Martine, and friend, Gyelze Sherpa.

  Sherpa:
    Gyalze Sherpa, 26/9/77, Kagani-8, Okhaldhunga, Everest 22/5/08


expid: DHA110104
peakid: DHA1
year: 2010
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Iran
leaders: Mahmoud Shoaei
sponsor: Dhaulagiri Iranian Expedition
ascent1: 151
approach: Fly to Pokhara, bus to Beni->Darvan->Bagar->Dovan->Italian BC
bcdate: 2010-03-26
smtdate: 2010-04-26
smttime: 1136
termdate: 2010-04-30
campsites: BC(26/04,4750m),C1(05/04,5850m),C2(11/04,6800m),C3(25/04,7250m),Smt(26/04)
achievment: 1st successful Iranian expedition
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Gheichisaz, Hashemi Sougheh, Maani Golestan, Nematolahi, Seyed Mousavi, Halung and Ngima left C3. At midnight of 25 April for summit. Ngima turned back from about 8100m due to tiredness. The members and Halung reached the top at 11:36 am on 26 April. They stayed on summit for about 20 minutes. Then descended to C3 at around 6 pm. They spent the night there. Next day descended to C1, Sherpas to BC. On 28 April all summit members down to BC. 

  High points for other members: Chesmeh Ghasabani, Naderian, Nasiri Ghajor, Saberi and Salehi climbed up to 7300m for acclimatization on 12 April. Ranjbari and Shaoei remained at BC. 

  The summit day weather was good, clear sky but little windy. The team returned to Kathmandu on 3 May and will leave on 8 May.

  Sherpas:
    Halung Dorchi Sherpa, 25/11/89 (10/8/2046), Makalu-5
    Ngima Dorchi Sherpa, 10/9/75 (25/5/2032), Makalu-9
    Tshering Tashi, 7/12/85 (22/08/2042), Khumjung, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1
    Phudorchi Sherpa, 25/12/83 (16/11/2039), Makalu-4                                                                                           


expid: DHA110105
peakid: DHA1
year: 2010
route1: NE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Yang Chun-Feng
sponsor: Chinese Dhaulagiri Expedition
ascent1: 152
approach: Beni->Myagdi Khola->Italian BC
bcdate: 2010-04-18
smtdate: 2010-05-13
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2010-05-15
othersmts: Climbed Annapurna I (ANN1-101-11)
campsites: BC(18/04,4650m),C1(22/04,5700m),C2(11/05,6700m),C3(12/05,7500m),Smt(13/05)
agency: Tseringma Treks
routememo:
  Han, Rao, Li, Lou, Yang, Zhang Liang, Zhang Wei, Zhao Liang, Dawa Chhiri Sherpa, Dawa Tenji, Kili Pemba, Kami Singee Tamang, Pemba Chhiri, Lhakpa Gelu, Dendi, Mingma Chhiri and Mingma Sherpa (Iranian Expedition) started their summit bid from C3 at 1 am on 13 May in good weather. The team reached to the top at 12:30 pm except Mingma Chhiri. They stayed on the summit for about 30 minutes. When they reached to the summit it was cloudy and after a while a snowstorm started. The team descended to C3 in bad weather, some times it was total white-out. Zhang Wei, Dawa Chhiri, Mingma Chhiri and Mingma reached C3 between 5-6 pm. Zhang Liang reached C3 after 6 pm. Yang arrived C3 after midnight. On 14 May three Sherpas rescued Lou (frostbitten feet) and Rao from 7700m. Lou reached C3 at 10 am and Rao at 6 pm. Three members, Han, Li and Zhao, could not make it to C3. The remaining climbers were exhausted and descending slowly and had asked for evacuation. On 15 May Fishtail Air and Swiss Air Zermatt on its reconnaissance flights located 8 people stuck in C3, but could not make any rescue work due to bad weather. On 16 May four Chinese climbers and 2 Sherpas were evacuated from between C2 and C1 to BC. Then five Chinese were flown to Kathmandu. Dawa Chhiri was flown in to Kathmandu on 17 May and hospitalized.

  Zhang Shuo-Ping climbed up to C2 on 26 April and left BC on 3 May due to time constraint.

  Mingma Chhiri Sherpa, climbed up to 7900m; he did not go beyond.

  When I met Yang and Zhang Wei on 22 May they told me all other members already left Kathmandu and they were not sure when they will be leaving.

  Injuries:
  Rao - frostbitten feet.
  Lou - frostbitten feet.
  Zhang Wei - snowblind.

  Dawa Chhiri Sherpa was exhausted and slept in open at about 7000m. When he woke up he realized that he could not move right part of his body. After sunrise, heat from the sun helped him to move very slowly.

  Deaths:

  Han fell above C3 about 7400m. Dawa Chhiri said he was walking down carelessly and not clipped with fix rope. He might have suffered from high altitude sickness. Dawa Chhiri saw Han fall. There was no trace of body.

  Li was exhausted and could not walk; maybe suffered from high altitude sickness at 7600m.

  Zhao Liang fell above C3 about 7400m; he might have suffered from high altitude sickness. There was no trace of body.

  Fixed rope: between C2 and summit.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Tshering/Chhiri, 3/8/1971, Beding, Cho Oyu X6, Ever X4, Makalu, Manaslu X2
    Dawa Tenzen/Tenji, 31/10/75, Beding, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X5, Kang X1, Manaslu X1
    Kili Pemba, 15/05/80, Beding, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X4, Manaslu X2
    Kami Singee Syangba Tamang, Ramche-4, Rasuwa, Everest, Makalu, Manaslu
    Lhakpa Gelu, 31/08/88, Gorakhani-1, Solu, Manaslu X1
    Dendi, Gorakhani-2, Everest X2, Kang, Manaslu
    Mingma Chhiri, 19/1/72 (5/10/2028), Beding
    Pemba Chhiri, 24/02/87 (12/11/2043), Simigaon-3, Dolakha
    Mingma Sherpa, 16/06/1978, Nurbu Chaur, Upper Walung, Makalu-9, Cho Oyu X3 
      Ever X1, Makalu X1, etc
      He was supposed to climb with the Iranian Dhaulagiri expedition. 
      When Mingma came to Dhaulagiri Iranian had already left.


expid: GAUG10201
peakid: GAUG
year: 2010
nation: USA
leaders: Peter Athans
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  The chief goals of the expedition were to finish establishing a Nepali-English library in the village of Chhele in Manang north of Kagbeni, and to continue their program of exploring caves of great archeological interest in the area as far north-northeast as Samajung village.

  They flew from Kathmandu to Pokhara and then to Jomsom, from where they began their exploration trek. They finished their work in Samajong on 2 August and retraced their route southwards with the plan to climb Gaugiri before returning to Kathmandu.

  But when they were near Chhele on 6 August, Richards fell while climbing a cliff and fractured his coccyx ("tailbone") which left him in great pain. All climbing plans were immediately cancelled to concentrate on his care. Segal accompanied him in his helicopter evacuation to Kathmandu the same day, and the rest of the team followed to Kathmandu two days later.


expid: HIML10101
peakid: HIML
year: 2010
route1: W Ridge
nation: Peru
leaders: Gabriel Filippi
sponsor: Two to Himlung
countries: Canada
approach: Koto->Phu
bcdate: 2010-04-29
smtdate: 2010-05-02
termdate: 2010-05-04
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to impassible crevasse
othersmts: Attempted Everest (EVER-101-75, EVER-101-76)
campsites: BC(29/04,4800m),ABC(30/04,5200m),C1(01/05,5500m),xxx(02/05,5800m)
agency: Mountain Tribes Trekking
routememo:
  Hidalgo and Filippi went up to 5800m four times. On their way, they had to cross a few big crevasses. When they reached 5800m they noticed that they could not carry on as they were faced with a huge crevasse and they were standing on a snowbridge. They would have needed a ladder to cross. The weather was bad and it was hard to see another point where they could cross. So they abandoned the expedition and left to go back to Kathmandu.

  Both members continued to go to Tibet to climb Mount Everest. Filippi with Mountain Tribes and Hidalgo with Adventure Extreme.


expid: HIML10102
peakid: HIML
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Sang-Bae
sponsor: 2010 Korea Himalaya Himlung Expedition
approach: Besisahar->Tal->Koto->Dharmasala->Kyang->Phu
bcdate: 2010-04-24
smtdate: 2010-04-30
termdate: 2010-05-12
campsites: BC(24/04,4800m),C1(27/04,5600m),xxx(30/04,5900m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Hwang, Jeong, Jin, Kim Dae-Hak, Kim Kwan-Jae, Kim Kye-Su, Kim Kwoun-Jong, Kim Tae-Hun, Lee Bo-Yun, Tshering Thundu, Ngima Kancha and Pemba Tenjing climbed up to 5900m near C2. The team found lots of hidden crevasses and snow condition was very bad. It was dangerous to continue climbing and the team gave up. Pemba fell into crevasse and had to be rescued to BC. 

  Lee Sang-Bae, the leader said he will return to Himlung in autumn 2010. 

  High point for rest of the members was C1. The team returned to Kathmandu on 16 May and left on 19 May.

  Fixed rope: between C1 - C2.

  Sherpas:
    Tshering Thundu, 4/10/74 (18/06/2031), Khumjung, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1
    Nima/Ngima Kancha, 15/5/30 (02/02/2037), Khumjung, Everest X2, Lhotse X1
    Pemba Tenjing, 9/1/86 (25/09/2044), Khumjung


expid: HIML10103
peakid: HIML
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Hans Honold
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Himlung Expedition 2010
ascent1: 34th
countries: Austria
approach: Koto->Phu
bcdate: 2010-05-07
smtdate: 2010-05-17
smttime: 1530
termdate: 2010-05-21
campsites: BC(07/05,4800m),C1(09/05,5400m),C2(14/05,6050m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  BC at edge of Pangri glacier
  C1 at beginning of glacier
  C2 on south side of false summit.

  Summit: On 17th May by Becker, Gaugg, Honold, Klauser, Kancha, Zamba, Lal Bdr Tamang at 3:30 pm.

  Honold decided to do a different route from the normal route as other teams they had met on the approach march had told him that the crevasses on the normal route were too big to cross without a ladder. However, the teams had bad weather during their expedition and finding a way through the crevasses would have been more difficult. Honold chose the SW Ridge, the route of the Japanese in 2009. Unlike the Japanese, they had no C3. The route went below the C3 of the Japanese.

  The whole team left C2 on 17th May at 3:30 pm. Good weather, clear and calm. Route was icy and no snow. They fixed a rope on the ridge from the false to the real summit. They reached the summit at 3:30 pm, stayed half an hour and descended to C2, where they arrived at 9:00 pm.

  On 18th May they descended to BC.

  Schneider and Hermwille reached 6200m at 8:30 am on summit day. Schneider was too tired to carry on. Hermwille found out that his crampon technique was not good enough and the climb was too technical. He did not have enough water for the climb. Both waited for the team to summit and come back to pick them up at 6200m.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Jambu Sherpa, 18/5/79 (4/2/2036), Tapting-7, Solu
    Kancha Lama Sherpa, 19/11/82 (4/8/2030), Taksindu-2, Solu
    Lal Bahadur Tamang, 21/6/83 (7/3/2040), Ramche-6, Rasuwa


expid: KANG10101
peakid: KANG
year: 2010
route1: SW Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Hong Bo-Seong
sponsor: Dynamic Busan Kangchenjunga & Annapurna Expedition
ascent1: 79th
approach: Fly to Biratnagar, bus to Phidim->Tharpu->Dovan->Yamphudin->Ramje
bcdate: 2010-03-24
smtdate: 2010-04-29
smttime: 1325
termdate: 2010-05-01
campsites: BC(24/03,5400m),C1(03/04,6300m),C2(04/04,6800m),C3(12/04,7550m),Smt(29/04)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  Leader remained at BC through out the expedition.

  Member Kim Jin-Tae went up to C3 on 12 April, spent night, but did not try for the summit due to tiredness.

  Kim Chang-Ho, Seo, Sangay Phuri and Ngima Gyalzen Sangay Phuri left C3 at 8pm on 28 April. The team reached to the top at 1:25 pm on 29 April and stayed on summit for 50 minutes, returned to C3 where they arrived at 7:30 pm and spent the night there. On 30 April all descended to BC. The summit day weather was very good, calm and clear sky. About 7000m it was little cloudy. The summit is flat snow field and triangular in shape. Around 8000m on the way up there was a small rock face on which they saw two pitons to which slings were tied. They also saw a red oxygen cylinder around 8000m. The route from C3 to summit was a long walk and difficult; it was mostly rocky and little snow.

  The team's first attempt on 13 April was abandoned due to very strong wind; they waited at C3 for long time for the wind to recede, but it continued and the team descended to BC same day.

  The second attempt was on 15 April. When the team reached C2 around 6 pm they found the tent was gone, the strong wind blown off the tent and the wind was still there. They were exhausted and descended to BC where they reached at 11 pm. The third attempt was on 19 April from C3 from where they started at 10 pm when they reached 8150m they realized that there is not enough time to reach summit it was a long way. Sangay got a little frostbite in his feet .. then returned to C3 rest for a while and descended to BC around 5 am next day.

  The team was suppose to go to Annapurna I, but at the time of meeting it has not decided whether to go to mountain or to go home. The expedition team returned to Kathmandu on 6 May. Did not go to Annapurna I.

  Sherpas:
    Ngima Gyalzen, 19/11/82 (04/08/2039), Chheskam-2, Solu
    Sangay Phuri, 24/1/70 (09/08/2027), Makalu-9, Kangchenjunga X1


expid: KOJI10101
peakid: KOJI
year: 2010
route1: E Face of S Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Michihiro Honda
sponsor: Team Honda to Kojichuwa Chuli
ascent1: 1st
bcdate: 2010-05-15
smtdate: 2010-05-25
smttime: 1900
termdate: 2010-05-29
campsites: BC(15/05,3600m),ABC(21/05,4600m),C1(24/05,5100m),C2(24/05,5300m),Smt(25/05)
achievment: 1st ascent
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  The team flew from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj and by chartered Twin Otter aircraft to a new airfield at Tolcha, just east of Rara Lake. They trekked east to Gamgadhi and to Mugu Karnali River, east along the river to Mugu Khola, then north along the Mugu Khola to their BC at 3600m on 15 May on the west side of Mugu Khola.

  They established their ABC at 4600m on 21 May east of Mugu Khola just southwest of point 6053m (on HMG's map called Western Nepal Sheet), close to the border ridge on which Kojichuwa Chuli is located and south-southwest of the summit.

  The five members (no Sherpas) climbed up to the site of C1 at 5100m on 24 May. None of them slept there. Honda and Suzuki turned back to ABC; Suzuki had an altitude problem and Honda went down with her.

  At the same time Fujikawa, Kawamura and Kimoto climbed onto the border ridge and down the Tibetan side on the East Face of the ridge where they made C2 at 5300m and slept that night, 24 May. They had to fix rope from C1 site up the rocky Nepalese side of the ridge and down the icefall to C2 on the Tibetan side.

  The next day, 25 May, the three men left C2 at 8:00 am, traversed diagonally northwards on the East Face up onto the border ridge and the summit, which was on the ridge. They reached the summit at 7:00 pm; they had made the first ascent of the mountain. They slept at 6200m in their bivy tent.

  They left their bivouac at 5:30 am the next morning, followed their ascent route and descended to C2 that night. They returned to BC on the 27th.


expid: KYR110101
peakid: KYR1
year: 2010
route1: W Ridge-S Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Yoshichika Yamada
sponsor: Japanese CCA Club Kyungga Ri Expedition 2010
approach: Syabru Besi->Riverside->Kyangin Gompa->Langshisa Kharka
bcdate: 2010-03-25
smtdate: 2010-03-31
termdate: 2010-04-07
termnote: Abandoned at 5860m due to bad weather and lack of rope
campsites: BC(25/03,4400m),ABC(26/03,5020m),C1(27/03,5500m),C2(31/03,5860m),xxx(31/03,5860m)
agency: Nireekha Treks
routememo:
  Since the arrival of team at BC, every afternoon there was a snowfall. On 31 March all members went up to 5860m and slept there. The way up from C2 are lots of crevasses and danger of avalanche due to fresh snow. Also the team ran out of ropes.

  Leader estimated that if the team were to try for summit they would need 500m of additional rope. On 1 April the team descended to ABC and had to spend 3 nights due to snowfall. Thet team returned to Kathmandu on 11 April.


expid: LHOT10101
peakid: LHOT
year: 2010
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Joby Ogwyn
sponsor: Everest Wingsuit Expedition 2010
bcdate: 2010-04-30
smtdate: 2010-05-07
termdate: 2010-05-08
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m (never really intended to summit)
campsites: BC(30/04,5350m),C1(06/05,5900m),xxx(07/05,6400m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Joby never intended to climb Lhotse. He is planning to jump out of a helicopter in a wingsuit in October 2010. He wanted to have a closer look at the Western Cwm to see where he could land.


expid: LHOT10102
peakid: LHOT
year: 2010
route1: W Face
nation: Russia
leaders: Alexei Bolotov
sponsor: Lhotse Expedition
countries: New Zealand
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2010-04-10
smtdate: 2010-05-16
smttime: 1815
termdate: 2010-05-19
campsites: BC(10/04,5300m),C1(15/04,6000m),C2(16/04,6400m),C3(22/04,7100m),C4(15/05,7800m),Smt(16/05)
accidents: Duganov at C4 of HAPE or HACE
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Manuylov, Lutokhin, Kirievski and Totmyanin started their summit push from C4. Manuylov started his push at 6 am (the others had started a bit earlier). The weather and snow conditions were good. The route was partly fixed. Manuylov reached the summit at 6:15 pm and descended to C4 the same day where he arrived very late. Manuylov stayed with the Kazakh team at C4. The following day, he reached C2 and on 18th he reached base camp.

  Manuylov used oxygen from 7400m to the summit back down to C4.

  Lutokhin, Kirievski and Totmyanin (none of them used oxygn) had turned back during the summit push at different altitudes due to bad health. They all descended to C2 on that day.

  On 6th May, the team tried their first summit push and reached about 8300m. They turned back as it was getting too late in the day and they spent the night at C4. When they got back to C4, Duganov started feeling bad in the evening and on 7th May in the morning Belous, Bolotov, Duganov, Kirievski and Totmyanin started to go down. Duganov walked for a few meters and collapsed after having clipped into the fixed rope and died. His teammates tried to resuscitate him, but there was no sign of life. His body was taken down to C2, where a helicopter picked it up on 20th May 2010.

  Duganov died of high altitude cerebral or pulmonary edema on 7th May at 10 am near C4.

  Frolov and Pavlenko reached C4 on 15th May. Frolov did not join the summit push on 16th May, as he did not feel confident about the climb. Pavlenko did not go due to a bad cough.

  Ladygin reached C3 on 10th May and decided to abandon the climb as he did not feel confident and it was his first 8000m peak.

  Loutzenko reached 7200m, just above C3 on 5th May; he abandoned the expedition due to a bad cough.

  Rozhkov Eduard reached C3 on 25th April; he abandoned the expedition due to bad cough and flu.

  Rozhkov Ilya and Ryzhenko reached C3 on 22nd April; they abandoned the expedition due to flu and bad cough.

  Lutokhin reached 7900m on 15th May; he was on the summit push with Manuylov but turned back just outside C4 due to a bad cough.

  Alexandr Frolov used oxygen from 7500m to his high point and back to 7500m. Apart from Frolov and Manuylov, nobody else used oxygen on the mountain.


expid: LHOT10103
peakid: LHOT
year: 2010
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Dick Morse
sponsor: US Lhotse Expedition
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2010-03-21
smtdate: 2010-05-15
termdate: 2010-04-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to no tent at C4
othersmts: Attempted Ama Dablam (AMAD-101-08)
campsites: BC(16/04,5350m),C2(22/04,6400m),C3(26/04,7100m),C4(06/05,7900m),xxx(15/05,7900m)
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  Mingma Dorje went to C4 on 6th May to drop the loads and pitch the tent. Morse was at BC.

  On 15th May, Morse and Mingma Dorje climbed to C4. Mingma Dorje started from C2 at 3 am and Morse started from C3 at 7 am. They reached C4 at about 3 pm. When they got there, their tent had gone (probably blown away by the wind). It would have been their summit push to use the weather window on 16th May, but as they did not have a tent they abandoned the expedition. They descended again to C3, where they arrived at 8 pm and stayed the night. On 16th May they descended to C2, and on 17th May to BC.

  Morse used oxygen from C3 to C4 and back to C3.

  Mingma used oxygen from Yellow Band to C4.

  Sherpa:
    Mingma Dorje, Tapting, Solu, 17/7/79, Everest in 2004, 2007 and 2008


expid: LHOT10104
peakid: LHOT
year: 2010
route1: W Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Catalina Quesada
sponsor: Lhotse Female Andalusian Expedition
approach: Phakding->Namche->Tengboche->Pheriche->Lobuche
bcdate: 2010-04-23
smtdate: 2010-05-16
termdate: 2010-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to icy snow conditions and no fixed ropes
campsites: BC(23/04,5300m),C1(29/04,6100m),C2(30/04,6500m),xxx(16/05,7600m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  On 16 May while climbing up Quesada was told by Sherpas descending from South Col that there were no fixed ropes. On Lhotse and in the couloir, the snow conditions were icy and it would be dangerous to go up. Then she descended to BC on 17 May. Her target to summit was 23 May. She did not try again. 

  Sherpa:
    Ngima Dendi Sherpa, Harishe, Bakachol-9, Khotang, 25/5/74, Everest X1


expid: LHOT10105
peakid: LHOT
year: 2010
route1: S Col-W Face
nation: Mexico
leaders: David Liano
sponsor: Asian Trekking Eco-Everest Expedition 2010
bcdate: 2010-05-18
smtdate: 2010-05-23
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2010-05-26
othersmts: Climbed Everest South (EVER-101-15) and attempted Everest North (EVER-101-26)
campsites: BC(18/05,5300m),C2(19/05,6400m),C3(20/05,7000m),C4(22/05,7800m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
primid: EVER10115
routememo:
  Summit: Pasang Norbu on 23rd May at 11 am
  HighPt: Liano to 8000m on 23rd May at 3 am.

  After having climbed Everest on 22nd May, Liano went from C4 on Everest to C4 on Lhotse, where Pasang Norbu was waiting for him.

  On 23rd May, Liano and Pasang Norbu left C4 at 1 am. Liano got to about 8000m at the start of the couloirs. Two IMG Sherpas were fixing ropes behind Liano, so he waited for them to come up, however, he got too cold and decided to go down again. He turned back at around 3 am and descended to C4, where he stayed until 10 am and then carried on to C2. On 24th May he descended to BC.

  Pasang Norbu carried on to the summit helping the IMG Sherpas to fix the ropes and arrived there at about 11 am. After the summit Pasang Norbu returned to C2, where he arrived at 6 pm and met Liano. On 24th May they descended to BC.

  Oxygen:
    Liano from C2 to high point to C4
    Pasang Norbu from C4 to Lhotse summit to C4

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Norbu, Nurbugaon, Makalu, 21/12/72, Everest X4, Manaslu X1, Kangch X1


expid: LHOT10106
peakid: LHOT
year: 2010
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Cleo Weidlich
sponsor: Asian Trekking Eco-Everest Expedition 2006
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2010-05-12
smtdate: 2010-05-24
termdate: 2010-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 8218m due to bad snow conditions, no fixed rope
othersmts: Climbed Everest (EVER-101-16)
campsites: BC(12/05,5350m),C1(13/05,6100m),C2(14/05,6400m),C3(15/05,7400m),C4(23/05,7700m),xxx(24/05,8218m)
agency: Asian Trekking
primid: EVER10116
routememo:
  After having climbed Everest on 17th May, Weidlich and Dawa Tshering descended to C2 on 18th May. They stayed there for four days. On 22nd May, Dawa Tshering and Wiedlich ascended to C3 and to C4 of Lhotse on 23rd of May.

  They left C4 at 5:10 am on 24th May. It was snowing and very warm. The snow conditions were not good and the ropes had not been fixed. When they got to their high point at 8218m at 8:15 am, they decided to turn back due to lack of rope and bad snow conditions. They descended to C4, took it down and then they carried on to C2, where they arrived at about 3:30 pm. On 25th May to BC.

  Oxygen:
    Not taken, not used.

  Sherpa:
    Dawa Tshering, Thami, Khumbu, 19/11/66, Everest X11


expid: LHOT10107
peakid: LHOT
year: 2010
route1: W Face
nation: Canada
leaders: Meagan McGrath
sponsor: Meagan McGrath Adventurer Expedition 2010 to Lhotse
bcdate: 2010-04-15
smtdate: 2010-05-23
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2010-05-26
campsites: BC(15/04,5350m),C1(20/04,6100m),C2(21/04,6400m),C3(28/04,7100m),C4(21/05,7750m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Summit: 23 May by McGrath and Pemba Tenji.

  McGrath was intending to climb without oxygen. She reached C4 on 21 May and was ready to summit on 22 May. McGrath and Pemba Tenji left C4 at 1:30 am on 21st May; they were behind the Finnish team. Pemba Tenji was supposed to fix the lines with the IMG Sherpas beforehand, however, the IMG Sherpas never showed up and Pemba Tenjin could not do it by himself.

  They caught up with the Finnish team, who were fixing the ropes. When they were just below the couloirs the Finnish team told them that they had run out of rope and that they could not carry on without a rope.

  McGrath was still without oxygen and was doing great. They all decided to turn back at around 5 am and descended to C4, where they arrived at about 6:45 am. The Finnish team descended to C2 that day, but McGrath decided to stay as she wanted to give it another go.

  The IMG Sherpas had reached C4 by then and had fixed the rope in the couloirs just in front of McGrath and Pemba Tenji.

  On 23rd May, Pemba Tenji and McGrath left at 1 am. McGrath felt very weak that morning and decided to take oxygen.

  Good views into Nepal. They spent about 30 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at about 12:30 pm. Stayed there about one hour and descended to C3, where they rested and McGrath decided to use oxygen from C3 to C2 as she was so slow. They reached C2 at about 7 pm.

  Oxygen:
    McGrath from C4 to summit to C4 and from C3 to C2
    Pemba Tenji from C4 to summit to C2

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Tenji, Chatu, 24/1/63, Lhotse X1, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X1


  Pemba Thiley Shera (Asian Trekking) - 14 Sept 2017

  The Sherpa summiter was Pemba Tshering (Pangboche, 1979) instead of Pemba Tenji.


expid: LHOT10108
peakid: LHOT
year: 2010
route1: W Face
nation: Argentina
leaders: Matias Erroz
sponsor: Argentinian on Lhotse
approach: Phakding->Namche->Pangboche->Lobuche
bcdate: 2010-05-06
smtdate: 2010-05-23
smttime: 0530
termdate: 2010-05-27
campsites: BC(06/05,5300m),C2(12/05,6200m),C3(15/05,6700m),C4(22/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
achievment: 1st Argentinian to top without oxygen
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  Erroz started his summit push from C4 at 1 am on 23 May and got to the summit at 5:30 am. He stayed on summit for about 15 minutes and descended to C4 at 8 am. He continued to descend to C2 where he reached at 12 noon and spent the night there. Next day to BC. The other climbers summited on that day were Eva and Tamara. There was another woman and 3 or 4 Sherpas. The summit day weather was perfect. 

  He returned to Kathmandu on 29 May and will leave on 1 June.


expid: LHOT10109
peakid: LHOT
year: 2010
route1: W Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Tamara Lunger
sponsor: Everest-Lhotse 2010
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2010-04-07
smtdate: 2010-05-23
smttime: 1023
termdate: 2010-05-26
othersmts: Island Peak
campsites: BC(07/04,5350m),C2(13/04,6400m),C3(01/05,7150m),C4(22/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Summit: 23 May by Lunger and Wangchu at 10:23 am.

  Lunger and Pemba Ongchu Sherpa left C4 at 1 am on 23rd May. Weather was clear and slightly windy. There were a few other people climbing on the mountain. Conditions were good, the couloir was rocky and snowy. They spent about half an hour on the summit. The views were Ok, however, with a few clouds.

  After the summit they descended to C4, where they rested for a while and continued to C2, where they arrived at around 8 pm. They descended to BC on 24th May.

  Oxygen:
    Lunger from 8100m to summit to 8400m
    Ongchu Sherpa from C4 to summit

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Ongchu Sherpa, Kharikhola, Everest 22/5/10

  Pemba Ongchu was assigned Simone Moro for his client, Aldo Garioni. When Garioni left, Pemba Ongchu then climbed with Lunger.


expid: LHOT10110
peakid: LHOT
year: 2010
route1: W Face
nation: Finland
leaders: Tomi Myllys
sponsor: Everest-Lhotse 2010
bcdate: 2010-04-05
smtdate: 2010-05-22
termdate: 2010-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to no fixed rope
campsites: BC(05/04,5350m),C1(17/04,6100m),C2(21/04,6400m),C3(30/04,7100m),C4(21/05,7750m),xxx(22/05,7900m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  High point at 7900m at 100m below couloir by Kirtola and Myllys.

  Kirtola and Myllys left C4 at about midnight. It was cold and a bit windy. The first 50m out of base camp there was a fixed rope, however, after that there was nothing. They fixed about 150m towards the couloirs, however, they ran out of rope and nobody had fixed up to there, so they decided to turn back. They had met Megan McGrath from Canada, who was also climbing Lhotse, and together with her they descended to C4. McGrath stayed another night at C4 as she was trying another summit push the following day. The Finns descended to C2 the same day, where they arrived at about 6 pm. Next day they descended to BC.

  Oxygen:
    All members from C3 to high point to the bottom of the Lhotse Face.


expid: LHOT10111
peakid: LHOT
year: 2010
route1: W Face
nation: Sweden
leaders: Annelie Pompe
sponsor: Fisherman's Friends Swedish Expedition to Lhotse
approach: Pangboche
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  According to Chris Klinke, who is a friend of Pompe, she and her boyfriend Fred Strang, got sick in the Khumbu and she did not get near the mountain. I emailed her twice but no answer. I emailed Fred Strang, who told me that Annelie may not want to talk about Lhotse.


expid: LHOT10112
peakid: LHOT
year: 2010
route1: N Ridge-W Face up; W Face down
nation: Kazakhstan
leaders: Maxut Zhumayev
sponsor: Kazakhstan Military Expedition to Lhotse
bcdate: 2010-04-25
smtdate: 2010-05-16
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2010-05-20
campsites: BC(25/04),C1(28/04,6100m),C2(29/04,6550m),C3(05/05,7300m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C4 at bottom of couloir.

  The summit party consisted of just three members: Chekhlov, Pivtsov and Zhumayev. They left C4 at 3:00 am on 16 May and reached the summit at 1:00 pm, then returned to C4 at 5:30 pm to spend that night and the next day there. On the 18th they went down to C2 and on the 19th were back in BC.

  Non-summiting members:

  Gabbasov developed a bad headache (maybe incipient cerebral edema) in C1 on 28th April and returned to BC. On 4 May, he climbed up to C2 but did not sleep there; he had now lost all motivation to continue the climb.

  Ilyinski, who is 69 years old, never went above BC and had no plan to do so. He is a coach in the military's mountaineering group.

  Khonin was in the Himalaya for the first time and had stomach trouble on 24 April before the team reached BC. He climbed up to C4 on 6 May carrying a load but immediately descended to C2 and was back in BC on the 8th. He remained in BC for the duration of the climb; he had no strength left.

  When Sofrygin returned to BC on 8 May from C4, the area behind his nose and eyebrows was painful. He also remained in BC.

  Most of the team left BC on 20 May, but Ilinski and Zhumayev stayed at BC while Asian Trekking Sherpas with their Eco Everest climbers brought down to C1 the body of the Kazakhstani climber, Sergei Samoylov, who had fallen to his death while on Lhotse in the spring of 2009. From C1, a helicopter brought the two men and Samoylov's body from C1 to Gorak Shep on the 27th. Then porters hired at BC came down to bury the body in a spot halfway to Gorak Shep.

  Ilyinski flew in the helicopter to Kathmandu that day while Zhumayev trekked out to Lukla and got back to Kathmandu on the 30th.


expid: LHOT10113
peakid: LHOT
year: 2010
route1: W Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Eva Maria Zarzuelo
bcdate: 2010-04-19
smtdate: 2010-05-23
smttime: 1000
campsites: BC(19/04,5300m),C1(21/04,6100m),C2(22/04,6400m),C3(01/05,7400m),C4(22/05,7800m),Smt(23/05)
accidents: Zarzuelo fell into icefall about 30m
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Zarzuelo started her summit bid at 1:30 am on 23 May from C4. She reached the summit at 10 am. She stayed on summit for about 30 minutes, then descended to C2 where she arrived around 7:30 pm and slept there. On 24 May while going down to BC, the bridge ladder (around 5900m) which she was crossing fell into icefall about 30m down. She was rescued by icefall doctors (Sherpas) and other Sherpas of IMG. Willie Benegas and Chiocconi provided Zarazuelo with oxygen, medicines, etc. Zarzuelo, Willie and Chiocconi spent night in one tent above the icefall. Willie and Chiocconi accompanied Zarzuelo to Pheriche and Zarzuelo was flown by helicopter to Kathmandu. On 25 May she was admitted at Norvic hospital. She had knee injury and could not move her left knee, back problem and abrasions in her hands. She left Kathmandu on 4 June.


expid: LHOT10114
peakid: LHOT
year: 2010
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Mike Hamill
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Lhotse Expedition
countries: Japan
bcdate: 2010-04-11
smtdate: 2010-05-23
smttime: 1015
termdate: 2010-05-25
campsites: BC(11/04,5350m),C1(20/04,5960m),C2(22/04,6500m),C3(03/05,7300m),C4(22/06,7927m),Smt(23/05)
accidents: Tsuzuki's inner ear problem
agency: Beyul Adventure
routememo:
  This Lhotse party was attached to IMG's big Everest expedition led by Mike Hamill, and the camps to and including C3, Sherpas, and logistics were the same for both parties. There was no leader designated for Lhotse.

  The team was reduced to a single member, Mancinelli, by the time the summit was attacked. Tsuzuki climbed up to C3 on 4 May, but went down to C2 the same day and continued down to BC on the 5th because of an inner ear problem which caused her to lose her balance. She left the team on the 8th.

  Mancinelli, Chewang Lendu and Gyalzen Dorje left C3 on the joint Everest-Lhotse route on 22 May and pitched their Lhotse C4 that day. At 0:30 am on the 23rd they left for the top and arrived there at 10:15 am. They descended to C2, which they reached at 4:00 pm.

  Mancinelli used oxygen in C3 to the summit and down to (but not in) C2. The two Sherpas use it from C4 to the top to C4.

  Sherpas:
    Chewang Lendu, 19/4/80 (7/1/2037), Phortse, Lhotse X2, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1, 
      Manaslu X1
    Gyalzen Dorje, 17/2/88 (5/11/2044), Phortse, Lhotse X1, Everest X1

  Two Sherpas from Himex joined to help with the rope-fixing to the summit
    Phurba Tashi, Khumjung, 24/5/71
    Rita Dorje, Phortse, 24/10/77


expid: LHOT10115
peakid: LHOT
year: 2010
route1: W Face
nation: Finland
leaders: Josette Valloton
sponsor: International Everest-Lhotse Expedition
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 2010-04-08
smtdate: 2010-05-25
termdate: 2010-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at C3 due to avalanching
campsites: BC(08/04,5350m),C1(21/04,6000m),C2(22/04,6500m),C3(25/05,7300m),xxx(25/05,7300m)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  The two Finns for Lhotse were attached to the Everest expedition led by Valloton. They arrived at BC with them and Valanne first occupied C1 on the same day as they, 21 April.

  But Kallio only "touched" C1 on 19 April, descended to BC the same day and left the expedition on the 20th. He said wanted to trek, not to climb a mountain, but he flew from Lukla to Kathmandu on the 23rd and left Nepal on the 24th.

  That left Valanne as the only member for Lhotse. Lhotse's BC, C1, C2 and C3 are the same for Everest and Lhotse. He went up to C2 on 22 April, then down to BC on the 23rd. He started up again and reached C2 on the 29th, spent two nights there, and on 1 May tried to go up Lhotse's West Face to C3. However he gained no altitude: he went over to the bergschrund at the bottom of the face, but had become very tired so retreated to C2 for the night and descended to BC on the 2nd.

  Valanne went down to Pheriche to rest, returned to BC, went back to Pheriche and again to BC. Now he tried to make progress and on 23 May climbed to C1, on 24th to C2, and on 25th to C3 on the face.

  But then it snowed all that night, and small avalanches came down the face. On 26 May he went all the way down to BC, left BC on the 27th, and left Nepal on 1 June.

  One Sherpa climbed with Valanne: 
    Sange Sherpa, 21/5/71, Dinding, Makalu, Lhotse 20/5/09


expid: LHOT10116
peakid: LHOT
year: 2010
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Cory Richards
sponsor: Independent on Lhotse
smtdate: 2010-05-23
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2010-05-25
campsites: BC(5350m),C2(18/05,6400m),C3(21/05,7200m),C4(22/05,8000m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  Richards flew to Lukla in April to be a member of a glacial survey team led by Conrad Anker. They did no climbing, and when the survey work was done, Richards "wanted to climb something." His trekking agency got him on a permit for Lhotse.

  He left BC to climb Lhotse on 18 May and spent that night in C2 in a tent belonging to the Everest expedition led by Damian Benegas. He spent the 19th at C2; on the 20th; he climbed up to C3 and returned to C2 to sleep. On the 21st, he moved up to C3, again using a Benegas tent.

  On the 22nd he moved on up to Lhotse's C4 at about 8000m with a Benegas client from Argentina, Matias (Matoco) Erroz, who was also on a Lhotse permit. At 1:30 am on 23 May, Richards and Erroz left C4 for the top. Richards summited at 6:30 am and waited there for Erroz to join him an hour later; Richards was faster because he was using oxygen, while Erroz was not. They descended together to C2 at about noon.

  Richards used oxygen at a very low flow during the night of 22/23 May and all the way to the summit. He did not use it during his descent from the top.

  Richards got back to BC on the 24th after having joined in the efforts to rescue the independent Spanish woman, Eva Maria Zarzuelo, who had fallen when a ladder in the Icefall collapsed beneath her. He left BC the next day and returned to Kathmandu on the 27th.


expid: MAKA10101
peakid: MAKA
year: 2010
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: John Gray
sponsor: Two Americans to Makalu
approach: Tumlingtar
bcdate: 2010-04-20
smtdate: 2010-05-07
termdate: 2010-05-17
termnote: Abandoned at 7450m due to bad weather, running out of time
campsites: BC(20/04,4812m),ABC(22/04,5570m),C1(30/04,6100m),C2(01/05,6700m),xxx(07/05,7450m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  On 7th May, Gray together with Blair Falahey left C2 at 8 am. Blair Falahey had cold feet so they stopped at the German C2, which was a bit further up, for one hour to warm up. It was a very cold morning. The German and American team had fixed the route to the Makalu La. The route was very icy and rocky. They tagged the C3 site and descended to C2, where they arrived at about 7:20 pm.

  On 8th May Gray descended to base camp, where he stayed until 16th May, when he went back to C2 to pick up the material they had left there.

  Cortes reached C2 on 1st May. She stayed there for one night with Gray. On 2nd May, they both descended back to BC. On 5th she went back to C1 on her own to spend one night there. On 6th may, Gray went to C1 to pick her up to go to C2; however, Cortes had a bad night's sleep and decided to go back to BC. Gray continued to C2, where he stayed the night and then carried on to Makalu la the following morning.

  Even though the rest of the Thamserku team decided to give it another try on 22nd May, Gray and Cortes decided to leave as they were running out of time. They left BC on 17th May.


expid: MAKA10102
peakid: MAKA
year: 2010
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Blair Falahey
sponsor: An Aussie on Makalu
bcdate: 2010-04-20
smtdate: 2010-05-24
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2010-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 8455m due to dangerous climbing conditions and bad weather
agency: Thamserku Trekking
campsites:
  BC(20/04,4700m),ABC(22/04,5600m),C1(29/04,6200m),C2(05/05,6700m),C3(22/05,7400m),C4(23/05,7800m),xxx(24/05,8455m)

routememo:
  Blair and Pemba Nuru left C4 at 4 am on 24th May. The weather was very bad, it was snowing and they had to wade through knee-deep snow. At the base of the French Couloir they met Marty Schmidt and they climbed together from this point. The conditions seemed to be very dangerous and when the team and Marty Schmidt reached the bottom of the false summit it was already 2 pm. Falahey did not like the look of the ridge that went over to the false summit. Marty Schmidt carried on and Pemba Nuru and Falahey watched him cross the ridge for about an hour and then turned back. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 5:30 pm. When they reached C4, there was a Ukrainian climber in their tent.

  The following day, they descended to ABC. It took them about 8 hours. They broke down all the camps on the way down.

  Falahey says he had missed the weather window by one day and he believes that he would have summited on 23rd May.

  Oxygen:
    Taken from Sylvie Ferragu of the French/Swiss Expedition and used from 7800m 
      to high point

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Nuru (aka Kaila), Pare, Khumbu, 03/02/1973, Everest X3, Lhotse in 2000, 
      Makalu in 2008


expid: MAKA10103
peakid: MAKA
year: 2010
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Alexia Zuberer
sponsor: Makalu 2010 Expedition
ascent1: 117
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 2010-04-24
smtdate: 2010-05-23
smttime: 1730
termdate: 2010-05-25
campsites: BC(24/04,5700m),C1(27/04,6400m),C2(02/05,6800m),C3(06/05,7500m),C4(22/05,7600m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  Summit: 23 May 2010 by Bourgine, De Choudens, Zuberer, Chhiring Dorje, Angdu at 5:30 pm.

  The whole team (except Gamby), Chhiring Dorje and Angdu left C4 for the summit at 2 am. Weather was clear and calm. Conditions good. They were climbing with the US team, lead by Chris Klinke.

  Ferragu turned back at 7800m, just below the serac at 4:30 am. She was using oxygen and had a problem with the oxygen mask. She was not getting enough oxygen. She was getting very tired and decided to turn back. She descended to C4, where she arrived at 5:30 am.

  When she reached C4, Gamby was just leaving the camp to go for the summit. He reached 8100m at about 2 pm. He turned back as he was exhausted. He had not eaten properly the previous day and was too tired.

  Gotti reached 8200m at about 2:30 pm. There was a short period of bad weather moving in and he decided that he did not want to climb in snow, so he descended to C4.

  The summit team reached the top at 5:30 pm. They had good views and stayed there for about 15 minutes. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 10 pm. The next day they descended to BC.

  Sherpas:
    Tshering/Chhiring Dorje, Beding, Rolwaling, 25/10/74
    Angdu Sherpa, Gaurishankar-3, Dolakha, 10/09/1979, no 8000ers

  Oxygen:
    Bourgine from C4 to summit
    Zuberer from 7900m to summit to C4
    Ferragu from C4 to 7800m
    Gotti from C4 to 8200m to C4


expid: MAKA10104
peakid: MAKA
year: 2010
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Luis Stitzinger
sponsor: Makalu Expedition 2010
ascent1: 122
countries: Italy
approach: Tumlingtar
bcdate: 2010-04-12
smtdate: 2010-05-25
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2010-05-29
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
campsites:
  BC(12/04,4850m),ABC(14/04,5600m),C1(24/04,6300m),C2(28/04,6800m),C3(22/05,7400m),C4(23/05,7800m),Smt(25/05)

routememo:
  Summit: 25 May by Lunger at 12:30 pm.

  Lunger, Stitzinger and Von Melle left C4 at 12:30 am on 25th May. Weather was clear but very cold. When Stitzinger and Von Melle reached about 8050m, Stitzinger had very cold feet. He was only wearing skiing boots as he had planned to ski down the mountain. However, in these conditions it was impossible to carry on in these boots. Von Melle did not want to continue by herself. Lunger was well ahead and she could not see him, so she decided to turn back as well. They turned around at 2:30 am and descended to C4, where they rested for a few hours. At 8 am, they descended to ABC, where they arrived at 6 pm.

  Lunger carried on and had a straightforward climb. There was a bit of fresh snow but he had a good run. He overtook Arnold Coster's team, who were using oxygen. He crossed the ridge to the summit together Guntis Branos of Arnold Coster's expedition. He stayed on the summit for about 15 minutes. Great views, but very windy. He descended to C4, where he arrived at 7 pm. On his way down, he helped Arnold Coster bring down Adele Pennington, who was suffering from HAPE. The next day, he descended to C2 and on 27th May to ABC.

  Greher, Gruber, Haas, Hackhofer, Grassl, Lieske, Soell and Stark reached Makalu La (C3) at 7400m on 15th May. They were intending to spend the night at C3, but the wind was too strong to stay there or set up camp. They descended to C2, where they stayed the night. On 16th May the whole group descended to ABC and everyone (apart from Stitzinger, Von Melle and Lunger) left BC on 17th May as they did not have time to try another summit push. They walked out via East Col, West Col and Amphu Laptsa.

  Oxygen:
    Not taken and not used.


expid: MAKA10105
peakid: MAKA
year: 2010
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Colin Scott
sponsor: British Services Makalu Expedition
bcdate: 2010-04-04
smtdate: 2010-05-23
termdate: 2010-05-28
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to bad weather
othersmts: Climbed Shershon Northwest (SHNW-101-01) (all except Hornby and Jones)
campsites: BC(04/04,4800m),ABC(10/04,5800m),C1(15/04,6200m),C2(10/05,6700m),C3(20/05,7300m),xxx(23/05,7600m)
accidents: Colin Scott frostbite
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  BC was established at the south end of Barun Pokhari (lake). ABC was placed at the south end of the SE Ridge, which had turned south at its bottom end, and C1 was higher on this southward bottom part of the ridge. C2 was placed at the South Col, after having climbed northward and crossed over the top of 6825m high Peak 3. C3 was on a small plateau on the SE Ridge.

  The expedition was plagued by bad weather: snowfall, plus very strong winds that blew at 60-70 km/hr every day after C1 had been established on 15 April on the exposed ridge. In addition, they were climbing a route that was ten kilometers long.

  C2 was not occupied until 10 May because the distance between the camps was three and a half kilometers, and they had to spend a long time moving up, fixing rope and establishing a gear dump at C2's site but sleeping every night in C1. C1 actually became an advance BC, where the team stayed when descending from higher altitudes rather than going all the way down to BC.

  It took four days to fix the rope from C2 to C3, which was occupied on 20 May. Then they had to retreat to C1 for three days because bad weather had set in again. On the 23rd one foot of snow fell within 15 hours; that morning Gale and Smith had fixed lines to 7600m, which turned out to be the expedition's high point. The snow buried these ropes.

  They stayed in C3 hoping for better weather until the 26th. They they abandoned the climb.

  The expedition fixed a total of 3000m of rope and used 4000m rope that they had installed when they were on the same route in 2008.

  While moving up and down between C1 and C2, their four climbing Sherpas and every member except Hornby and Jones went up and over the summit of Peak 3.

  Oxygen was used by members in and from C3, and to C2 when carrying big loads to clear the mountain. Sherpas used none.

  Colin Scott suffered a frostbitten finger, but it will heal completely.

  Members high points:

  Gale to 7600m fixing rope.

  Hart was not expected to go very high; he got stomach trouble at 6800m.

  Hornby as expedition doctor went to C1 (6200m) only.

  Jones was assigned to look after logictics; he also went no higher than C1.

  Parkes went to C3 (7300m) and waited there for improvement in the weather.

  Colin Scott also went to C3 and waited for better weather.

  Phylip Scott, like Hart, had not been expected to be a high climber; he got to 6800m also.

  Sherwood, like Hart and Phylip Scott, had not been expected to go very high and stopped at 6800m.

  Smith to 7600m with Gale fixing rope.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Gelu, 18/1/73 (5/10/2037), Sedua, Makalu-4, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2
    Mingma Thinduk, 22/9/80 (6/6/2037), Makalu-9, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Ongda Gyalzen (Indian citizen), 23/2/81 (12/11/20370), Makalu-9,
      moved to Darjeeling, Everest X2
    Pasang Ngima, 11/10/87 (25/6/2044), Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha, Dhaulagiri I X1


expid: MAKA10106
peakid: MAKA
year: 2010
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Arnold Coster
sponsor: Outware International Makalu Expedition
ascent1: 121
countries: Greece, Israel, Switzerland, Turkey, UK
bcdate: 2010-04-16
smtdate: 2010-05-25
smttime: 1015
termdate: 2010-05-27
accidents: Kiriakakis died during descent from summit
agency: Everest Parivar
campsites:
  BC(16/04,4750m),ABC(19/04,5750m),C1(25/04,6160m),C2(30/04,7200m),C3(22/05,7450m),C4(23/05,7700m),Smt(25/05)

routememo:
  BC at Hillary BC
  C3 at Makalu La.

  Most of the summit party moved up from C3 to C4 on 23 May with the intention of going to top the next day. But there was fresh snowfall on the 24th, so they had to a day in C4.

  On the 24th, Kiriakakis left C3 for the summit at 8:00 pm and joined the other members in C4, all left C4 together at 9:30 pm. The others were Brands, Coster, Findik and Pennington. All, except Kiriakakis and Kancha, arrived at the summit with Dawa on the 25th at 10:15 am. Lhakpa Ongyal turned back at 8100m because of a problem with his oxygen system. Kiriakakis and Kancha finally made it to the top at 1:00 pm.

  Pennington and her Sherpa Pemba Chhiring were also in the summit party to 8200m. Then Pennington had to abandon her summit bid because she was very ill. When she returned to Kathmandu she was told she had pneumonia; back in England it was found that one lung had collapsed. She was very weak. She had a kidney infection in late April-early May while on the mountain, but the doctor for a German expedition led by Luis Stitzinger gave her antibiotics and she carried on.

  She was using a new type of oxygen system, and Coster thinks it wasn't working properly. When Coster and Dawa met her as they were descending from the top, she was lying down, nearly unconscious, and appeared to be suffering from cerebral edema and hypothermia. Coster gave his oxygen system, and he and Dawa had to drag her down to a small tent in Stitzinger's C4 at 7800m, from which the German summiters had left (it was 100m above their own C4).

  Meanwhile Findik had descended to C3 at 3:00 pm. Brands made his way down very slowly because he was very weak and arrived at Stitzinger's C4. He tried to take refuge in the small tent now occupied by Pennington, Coster and Dawa, but Coster said there was no room there and he should go on down to his tent at their camp. Coster says Brands fell asleep on his way down, and as a result got badly frostbitten fingers (and slightly frostbitten toes).

  Findik was the first member to return to BC, where he arrived on the 26th. Coster got there on the 27th, Brands and Pennington came into camp on the 28th.

  Kiriakakis never turned up. He was met by Coster at 12:30 pm on the summit ridge: Coster was coming down from the top and Kiriakakis was going up. Coster told him it was too late for him to continue ascending and he must turn around. Kiriakakis refused to do so and they very nearly came to blows. Kiriakakis and his Sherpa, Kancha, went on up to the top.

  At the top of the French couloir, below the Makalu La, Kiriakakis and Kancha got into an argument, perhaps because the Sherpa was trying to hurry Kiriakakis, who now told the Sherpa to go on down and wait for him at the bottom of the couloir. Kancha waited for three hours, then climbed up about 100 meters but found no sign of Kiriakakis, and after 2:00 pm it was snowing and windy. Kancha went down to C4 about 5:00 pm and reported to Coster by walkie-talkie that Kiriakakis was not coming down. Coster told him to wait as long as he could.

  At eight o'clock the next morning, Kiriakakis radioed to Coster that he had spent the night in a cave, didn't know where he was but thought he was at 8200m, the altitude of the bottom of the couloir, but hadn't been able to find their team's black fixed ropes. Coster told him to come out of the cave so he could be seen, but actually most of the mountain was not visible. Kancha went up to the bottom of the couloir at 1:00 pm, but by now 30 centimeters of new snow had fallen and all tracks were covered; he found no sign of the missing member. Coster told him to return to C4 and stay there.

  On the 27th, Lhakpa Ongyal and Kancha searched up to the bottom of the couloir, but again there was poor visibility and now also strong wind. Kancha was coughing blood, and Coster told them to come down. Later a search team of six Sherpas on the ground, and a flight in a helicopter on 1 June, discovered no trace of Kiriakakis. Coster speculates that he had strayed far to one side of the route and ended up buried under the snow.

  For most of his climb, Kiriakakis had consistently been a slow climber, but on the summit day, he was exceptionally strong for the first eight hours: he was right behind the Sherpas who were fixing rope. Then he slowed down noticeably. He often talked approvingly about doping in sports. According to the leader of another Makalu expedition, hypodermic needles were found in his tent.

  Other non-summiting members:

  Doron reached C4 on 23 May with the group heading for the summit, but then he decided he couldn't get to the top and he went down to C2. He was back in ABC on the 26th.

  Rutland was with the team that pitched C2 on 30 April, climbed to 7100m the next day, then back to C2 on an acclimatization trip, and on 2 May down to ABC. Now there was a long period of bad weather; he stayed for a while but his motivation was deserting him, and on 18 May he was flown from BC to Kathmandu.

  Oxygen was used by all members from C3 to their high points to C4 and by their Sherpas from C4 to their high points to C4.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Sherpa, 16/6/69, Loding-9, Solu, Everest X6
    Lhakpa Ongyal, 19/8/66, Nurbugaon, Makalu-9, Makalu X2, Everest X1, Manaslu X1
    Kancha Sherpa, 23/1/81 (10/10/2037), Beni-5, Solu
    Pemba Chhiring, 38 yrs, Bhakanje, Solukhumbu


expid: MAKA10107
peakid: MAKA
year: 2010
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Will Cross
sponsor: An American to Makalu
approach: Tumlingtar
bcdate: 2010-04-20
smtdate: 2010-05-07
termdate: 2010-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to no Sherpa support
campsites: BC(20/04,4900m),ABC(22/04,5800m),C1(29/04,6200m),xxx(07/05,6700m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Cross went to C2 on 7th May to drop a load. It took him about 5 hours from C1 to C2. After he dropped the load he descended to BC. He went back to C1 on 16th May. He was on his own and had to cross a few crevasses below C1. While he was going up he realized that it was not the best terrain to be on your own, so he decided to turn back and descend again to BC.

  Cross did not have a Sherpa due to differences about the price of the expedition with the agency. He tried to hire a Sherpa at BC, but it was impossible. He realized that he should not be climbing the mountain on his own and abandoned the expedition on 20th May.


expid: MAKA10108
peakid: MAKA
year: 2010
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Chris Klinke
sponsor: 2010 Valandre Makalu Expedition
ascent1: 118
approach: Tumlingtar
bcdate: 2010-04-24
smtdate: 2010-05-23
smttime: 1800
termdate: 2010-05-25
campsites: BC(24/04,5700m),C1(6400m),C2(07/05,6800m),C3(7500m),C4(22/05,7600m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  The team left for the summit C4 at 2 am. Weather was clear and calm, conditions good. They were climbing with the French team, lead by Alexia Zuberer. However, two members turned around and only Klinke carried on and reached the summit at 6 pm. It turned windy and overcast. He took two pictures and left immediately. He descended to C4, where he arrived at 10:45 pm. The following day he descended to ABC.

  Johnson tried to summit from C3 on 22nd with Marty Schmidt. They left C3 at 3:30 am and got to 8100m. They turned back at around 1 pm as they thought it was getting too late. Good weather and good conditions, but they thought they were too slow and turned back to C3 and spend the night there. He did not join the summit push on the next day, as he was too tired.

  Klimek reached 7800m, just below the serac, on 23rd May. He turned back as he did not feel strong enough. He descended to ABC the same day.

  Meyer reached 8300m on 23rd May, however, it was getting late in the day and he and Lhakpa decided to turn back at 4:30 pm. They descended to C4, the weather had turned really bad by that time. They got very disorientated and were looking for C4 and could not find it. Lhakpa Chhiring slipped and fell but it was a complete white-out; Meyer could not find him. When Chhiring Dorje and the French came down from the summit, they were looking for Lhakpa for about another two hours. They reached C4 at about 11:40 pm and Lhakpa Chhiring was already there.

  The next day they descended to BC.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Tshering, Namche, 11/11/83, Everest in 2004, Cho Oyu in 2003


expid: MAKA10109
peakid: MAKA
year: 2010
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Fabrizio Zangrilli
sponsor: Field Touring Alpine Makalu Expedition 2010
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 2010-04-20
smtdate: 2010-05-24
termdate: 2010-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to bad weather, Brupbacher fear of frostbite
campsites: BC(20/04,5650m),C1(22/04,6400m),C2(23/04,6600m),C3(21/05,7500m),C4(22/05,7650m),xxx(24/05,7800m)
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
routememo:
  C1 at Chago Glacier
  C2 at beginning of steep wall
  C3 just above Makalu La on Tibet side.

  The team was defeated by strong winds. Eight times they got to C2, but each time after spending one night there, they were driven back down. For example, they deposited equipment at C2 on 7 May, but 70 km/hr wind sent them down to BC on the 8th.

  Finally on 21 May they managed to climb to C3 and sleep there and on the 22nd to occupy C4. On the 23rd they waited in C4 while snow fell.

  The 24th was summit day. Smith didn't have enough oxygen left to go for the top, and at 6:00 am he left for BC; his Sherpa, Tapche Bhote, descended with him.

  The other two, Brupbacher and Zangrilli, left at 2:00 am for the summit. But they got no higher than 7800m. They were not using oxygen and were not well acclimatized; it was windy and the temperature was minus 40 degrees Celsius; and Brupbacher, whose nose had been frostbitten on an earlier climb, was afraid of frostbite now again. They turned around at 5:00 am and were back in BC at 4:30 that afternoon.

  Smith was the only person to use oxygen. He used it in C3 to C4 to C2. (Zangrilli had carried some for him). Brupbacher, Zangrilli and Tapche used none at all.

  Hired:
    Tapche Bhote, 24/11/72, Hatiya, Makalu-Barun, Cho Oyu X1


expid: MAKA10110
peakid: MAKA
year: 2010
route1: SE Ridge (to 7100m)
route2: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Marty Schmidt
sponsor: Shared Summits Makalu
ascent1: 120
countries: New Zealand
bcdate: 2010-04-05
smtdate: 2010-05-24
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2010-05-27
agency: Himalayan Guides
campsites:
  BC(05/04,4100m),ABC(08/04,5400m),C1(16/04,6700m),xxx(16/04,7100m);2nd BC(14/05,5700m),series of Bivs,Smt(24/05)

routememo:
  BC  at 100m above Hillary BC
  ABC from SE Ridge route
  C1  at South Col
  2nd BC at normal BC site for NW Ridge route.

  The goal of the two-member team of Marty Schmidt and Chris Warner was to forge a new route up the South Face with few fixed camps and perhaps a traverse down the NW Ridge's normal route. They placed their BC 100 meters above the Hillary BC on 5 April; three days later they established ABC at 5400m on the glacier leading up in a northwesterly direction to the South Col; and on 12 April they camped at 6200m on the glacier while making the route on the face.

  On the 16th they reached 6600m on the glacier. But now they found that too many rocks were coming down the face, which was mostly bare rock with nothing to hold them in place. Schmidt and Warner made the wrenching decision to abandon the face and go to the col to climb the SE Ridge in its entirety. That day they made C1 at the col at 6700m.

  They started fixing rope to C2 at 7400m but got no higher than 7100m on the SE Ridge because of winds up to 80-100 mph. They retreated to BC, then left BC to return to the col on 2 May to take advantage of a weather window forecast for the 2nd to the 5th. They were back at the col on the 3rd and climbed to the top of the fixed lines at 7100m on the SE Ridge aiming to summit no later than the 5th.

  The wind now picked up strength, it was cloudy and cold. They went back to C1. Here Warner was stricken with a major ailment: his legs became swollen, which could be symptoms of life-threatening pulmonary embolisms. He had to get off the mountain, and the quickest way down from where they were was via the route a British team led by Colin Scott had established that did not go all the way to the col but went straight down to the bottom of the face. On the 6th, with help from British climbers, they descended this line and in nine hours of stormy weather they got back to the Hillary BC, slept in a British tent. Warner was evacuated by helicopter to Kathmandu on the 7th and left Nepal on 10 May.

  Now Schmidt was alone. He did not want to climb their route without Warner, so from 11 to 14 May he cleared their camps and on the 16th trekked around to the BC at 5700m used by teams on the normal route, where he slept that night.

  From here he climbed alpine style. He went up to the Makalu La at 7400m on the 17th to reconnoitre the route, to get a feel of it and to make sure it was safe, and descended to sleep in a bivvy a 6700m, the normal site for C2. He was back in the normal BC on the 18th.

  On 20 May he returned to 6700m, this time climbing with Brad Johnson, a member of an American expedition led by Chris Klinke. The next day, they got to the Makalu La at 7400m and on 22 May they left the La at 3:30 am, climbed up and out on the North Face in Tibet and reached 8150m at 1:00 pm. Here they decided it was getting too late to push on to the summit without ending up in an unprepared bivouac. They turned back and in five hours were again at the Makalu La.

  On the 23rd Schmidt and Johnson parted company; Johnson went down while Schmidt went up. Schmidt climbed alone up to a bivouac site at 7700m. At 1:00 am on 24 may he went for the top despite the cold and falling snow. He began to encounter descending Ukrainians (under Mstislav Gorbenko's leadership from below) who had come up a different route and didn't know the way down the normal route. Schmidt gave the first one water and showed him the fixed lines to Marty's tent. When he got to 8200m at 5:00 am, Marty found another one, sitting down from exhaustion; Marty got him on his feet, short-roped him to 7900m and showed him the way down from there.

  At 7:00 am Marty moved upwards again and succeeded in getting to the summit at 3:00 pm in clear weather on the final ridge but not below. At 6:00 pm he was back at his bivy at 7700m, where he found one of the Ukranians in his tent. Marty nursed him through the night and the next morning brought him down to the Makalu La, where his teammates took charge of him.

  Marty was back in his BC at 5700m for the normal route on the 25th and at BC near the Hillary BC site on the 26th.


expid: MAKA10111
peakid: MAKA
year: 2010
route1: SW Face-W Pillar-SW Ridge
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Mstislav Gorbenko
sponsor: Ukrainian National Himalayan Expedition Makalu 2010
ascent1: 119
countries: Russia
approach: Khanbari->Sedua->Tashigaon->Shipton Pass->Yangla Kharka->old French BC
bcdate: 2010-04-07
smtdate: 2010-05-23
smttime: 1815
termdate: 2010-05-25
accidents: Frostbite & high altitude sickness
agency: Windhorse Trekking
campsites:
  BC(07/04,4800m),ABC(09/04,5850m),C1(12/04,6200m),C2(17/04,6600m),C3(21/04,7000m),C4(30/04,7500m),C5(17/05,7700m),Smt(23/05)

routememo:
  Bublyk, Roshko and Venslavosky started their summit push from BC on 15 May. They reached C3 on 17 May and had to sleep there for three nights due to bad weather (high wind). The three-member summit team left C5 at 00:30 hrs of 23 May. Bublyk reached summit at 18:15 hrs. Roshko and Venslavosky reached at 20:00 hrs. When they were on the top snowfall started. Each of them stayed on the summit for about five minutes and descended via normal route, the NW Ridge. Bublyk waited for the two fellow climbers on the summit and they went straight down. Kruglov advised the descending summit members that the guides on the normal route were fixing up the ropes for their clients to the summit on that day. Kruglov got that information over radio. When Bublyk got to the summit he met Chiring and his client who just started their way down the normal route leaving good footprints on the snow.

  While Bublyk, Roshko and Venslavosky were descending, Marty Schmidt was preparing for his summit bid from his camp at 7700m on normal route on 24 May. 

  On 7 June 2010, Schmidt wrote about the Ukrainians in his last dispatch for Makalu season. Excerpt from Schmidt dispatch, "I got up at 23:00 hours, got out the door after brewing up for a few hours by 01:00 hours. Upon my first hour of climbing, I noticed the full moon on the horizon. I thought great, the weather is improving since it was snowing for the past few hours and I am going to have nice summit day. But that moon started to dance around like it was pulled by a string and it ended up being one of the (Bublyk) Ukrainian's headlamps who summited their new route on the South Face/West Pillar the night before; they reached the top at night and could not reverse their route so decided to descend the North Face, they knew I was climbing that day and had my camp up high on the North Face, because Giannina was in radio contact with their BC. I got the first sorted out with water and getting him on track towards my camp for him to use and rest in. Then an hour later I ran into the second Ukrainian (Roshko), seeing his hands were ungloved and frostbitten, I asked if he had more gloves. We dug into his pack and found mittens, got them on, gave him a lot of hot water to drink and got him on his way towards my camp at 7700m. Before we separated he told me that there was one more of his comrades, some where up there!!!! I took off looking for him. From 8100m I looked up towards the French Couloir and saw a rock in the middle of the snow. As I got closer this rock turned into the third Ukrainian (Venslavosky). He was sitting on his pack, arms crossed, head down and not moving. The death zone was so real at this very moment... I got to him, slapped him awake, got him up, got dex into him, gave him the last of my hot water, took his pack, put a short rope on him and lead him down 300m to his safety and towards my camp. He was able to walk on his own to my tent. I was still able to turn and head towards the summit. It was 09:00 hours by the time I got back to the start of the hard climb with the French Couloir in front of me."

  "I got back to high camp by 18:00 hours and took care of Dima Venslavosky in my tent through out the night. We packed up in the earlier morning and headed down to the La where his two mates were staying in Arnold's tents. They were re-united as a Ukrainian National team like when they started their climb." (Schmidt's dispatch was forwarded by Kruglov to Jeevan Shrestha).

  Kruglov and Dr. Bondar met the three summitters in C1 (normal route) on 25 May and descended together to ABC. They stayed at Chiring's camp overnight and descended to British BC at Hillary BC place on the following day 26 May. The Ukrainian BC was already cleared off on 25 May and the team had already set off for Tumlingtar. In the afternoon of 26 May Kruglov and Dr. Bondar along with the three summitters set off for Yangri Kharka where they arrived at 9 pm. On 27 the team waited for Heli to pick them up, but due to bad weather Heli could not reach there. On 28 May the team returned Kathmandu via Lukla by Heli. On the other side, rest of the team members including Leader Gorbenko got stuck in Tumlingtar because the runway was wet and not good for planes to land. On 30 May they drove 8 hours to Biratnagar then took plane to Kathmandu. The expedition team left Nepal on 1 June.

  Earlier, a team of three members of the expedition Klebanski, Kiyko and Perevalov started their summit push from BC on 13 May. When the team reach 7700m on around 18 May, Klebanski suffered from chest pain, Kiyko got frostbite in his toes (his toes not fully recovered from the frostbite on the previous expedition year before) and Perevalov suffered from pulmonary edema.

  Another team consisting of Kruglov, Kyrychek, Pugachev and Zakolodny went up on 16 May. Kruglov and Kyrychek helped Perevalov to descend to BC from C5 on 18 May. Perevalov's condition was quite bad. He was able to get down to C1 with little support, but had no strength left to go down any further and was heavily relying on help of Kyrychek and Kruglov. In ABC expedition doctor Bondar gave some injections to Perevalov. Klebanski and Kiyko got down to BC following day 19 May with help of Kilichenko. Pugachev and Zakolodny continued their climb and got to 7700m. Pugachev got high attitude sickness and both descended to BC on 22 or 23 May.


expid: MANA10101
peakid: MANA
year: 2010
route1: NE Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Alberto Pellizzari
sponsor: An Italian on Manaslu
approach: Arughat
bcdate: 2010-04-16
smtdate: 2010-05-12
termdate: 2010-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to high winds
campsites: BC(16/04,4900m),C1(19/04,5700m),C2(24/04,6500m),xxx(12/05,6900m)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  High point at Korean camp.

  Pellizzari and Pem Chhiri left C2 at 7 am. The weather was Ok, but there was a lot of snow. It took them five hours to C2.5 at 6900m. They reached the camp at about 12 am as the wind picked up and moving was getting more and more difficult. They were intending to move on to C3.

  They stopped at the Korean Camp and got into a tent together with Clive Jones and Rosa Fernandez's team, and discussed what to do. The wind was about 60 km/hour and they decided to descend again. They left the camp at about 2 pm and descended to C2 at 6500m to spend the night. The weather at C2 was calm, but it was snowing heavily. When they woke up in the morning their tents were covered in about one metre of snow.

  On 13th of May in the morning they packed up the camp and descended to base camp. Jones and Pellizarri decided to abandon the expedition and left base camp on 14th May.

  Sherpa:
    Pem Chhiri, 1989, Kurima, Lokhim, Solu, no 8000ers


expid: MANA10102
peakid: MANA
year: 2010
route1: NE Face
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Clive Jones
sponsor: Kiwi on Manaslu
approach: Helicopter to Samagaon
bcdate: 2010-04-12
smtdate: 2010-05-12
termdate: 2010-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to high winds
campsites: BC(12/04,4900m),C1(16/04,5700m),C2(24/04,6500m),xxx(12/05,6900m)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  High point at 6900m at Korean Camp.

  Jones and Lhakpa Dendi left C2 at 7 am. The weather was Ok, but there was a lot of snow. It took them five hours to Camp 2.5 at 6900m. They reached the camp at about 12 am as the wind picked up and moving got more difficult. They were intending to move on to C3. They stopped at the Korean Camp and got into a tent together with Alberto Pellizari and Rosa Fernandez's team and discussed what to do. The wind was about 60 km/h and they decided to descend again. They left the camp at about 2 pm and descended to C2 at 6500m to spend the night. The weather at C2 was calm, but was snowing heavily. When they woke up in the morning their tents were covered in about one meter of snow.

  On 13th of May in the morning they packed up the camp and descended to base camp. Jones and Pelizarri decided to abandon the expedition and left base camp on 14th May.

  Sherpa
    Lhakpa Dendi, 22/11/74, Gudel-9, Solu, Makalu 18/5/07


expid: MANA10103
peakid: MANA
year: 2010
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Oscar Cadiach
sponsor: A Spaniard on Manaslu
approach: Arughat->Samagaon
bcdate: 2010-04-16
smtdate: 2010-04-30
termdate: 2010-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to strong winds
campsites: BC(16/04,4800m),C1(17/04,5700m),C2(20/04,6500m),C3(29/04,6900m),C4(30/04,7500m),xxx(30/04,7500m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  When Cadiach went to C4 on 30th April the weather was not so good. The wind was very strong and there were high clouds. He left C3 at about 7 am and reached C4 at around 4 pm. He spent two nights at C4, but it was too windy to carry on. He returned to BC on 2nd May.

  Cadiach had a second attempt with Morales and Rosa Fernandez on 10th May. They reached C1 on 11th and C2 on 12th May, but the wind was too strong. They stayed one night in C2 and descended to BC on 13th.


expid: MANA10104
peakid: MANA
year: 2010
route1: NE Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Simone La Terra
sponsor: Himalaya Challenge 2010
countries: Poland
approach: Samagaon
bcdate: 2010-04-09
smtdate: 2010-04-19
termdate: 2010-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to much wind
campsites: BC(09/04,4800m),C1(11/04,5750m),C2(14/04,6500m),C3(18/04,6900m),xxx(19/04,7400m)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  La Terra and Michalski left C3 at around midnight on 19th April for their summit push. It was snowing and very windy. Visibility about one metre. They reached C4 site at 4:30 am. As the weather did not improve, they decided to descend to BC the same day. It took them about 8 hours to go back and they arrived at BC at about 4 pm.

  They stayed in BC for the time being (with outings to Samagaon) and started their second push on 10th May. They moved directly to C2, then C3 and then again C4, where they arrived on 12th may at 11:30 am. It was impossible to stay up there, as it was too windy (150 km/hr). They dismantled C2 and C1 on the way down and descended to BC.

  They left BC on 14th May and walked back to Arughat in two days.


expid: MANA10105
peakid: MANA
year: 2010
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Rosa Maria Fernandez
sponsor: Fernandez on Manaslu
approach: Arughat
bcdate: 2010-04-12
smtdate: 2010-04-24
termdate: 2010-05-16
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to bad weather, high winds
campsites: BC(13/04,4800m),C1(14/04,5800m),C2(23/04,6500m),xxx(24/04,6900m)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  High Point: 6900m on 24 April and 12 May by Rosa and Alfredo Fernandez, Dawa Chhiri and Nawang.

  Team left C2 at 7 am. The weather was clear and calm, but it had snowed a lot and it took them five hours to ascend to the Korean Camp at 6900m. They left a deposit there and descended back to base camp, where they arrived at about 5 pm. They stayed at base camp until 6th May and ascended to C1 again, but the weather was to bad to carry on, so they descended back to base camp.

  The second time they reached 6900m was on 12th May with Clive Jones and Alberto Pellizzari (from other expeditions).

  They were intending to ascend to C3 but they stopped at the Korean Camp and got into a tent together with Clive and Alberto to discuss what to do. The wind was about 60km/h and they decided to descend again. They left the camp at about 2 pm and descended to C2 at 6500m to spend the night. The weather at C2 was calm ,but it was snowing heavily. When they woke up in the morning their tents were covered in about one metre of snow. On 13th of May in the morning the packed up the camp and descended to BC. They abandoned the expedition and left BC on 14th May.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Chhiri, Kurima, Lokhim, 20/02/1967, Everest X3, Makalu X3, Cho Oyu X3, etc.
    Nawang Gechwo Sherpa, 1986, Kurima, Lokhim-9, Solu, no 8000ers


expid: MANA10106
peakid: MANA
year: 2010
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Jesus Morales
sponsor: UEC Horta Manaslu Expedition and Trekkimg 2010
approach: Arughat
bcdate: 2010-04-08
smtdate: 2010-05-01
termdate: 2010-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to high winds
campsites: BC(08/04,4800m),C1(12/04,5600m),C2(17/04,6500m),C3(22/04,6810m),C4(01/05,7500m),xxx(01/05,7500m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Morales, Pemba and Tenji left C3 at 8 am on 1st May and arrived at C4 at 5 pm. Weather was good up to 7300m when the wind started. They stayed at C2 for two nights. It was very windy. they could hardly open the tent. On 3rd May the wind died down a bit and they descended to base camp.

  Morales had a second attempt with Oscar Cadiach and Rosa Fernandez on 10th May. They got to C2 on 12th May, but the wind was too strong to carry on. They stayed one night in C2 on 12th and descended to BC on 13th.

  Llopis reached C1 (5600m) on 12th April. It was his first time on an 8000m peak and he had never been high before. He never intended to go much higher.

  They left BC on 14th May 2010.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Dorje, 1/8/70, Kharikhola, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X1
    Tenji Sherpa, 15/12/82, Waku-9, Solu, no 8000ers


expid: MANA10107
peakid: MANA
year: 2010
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Carlos Soria
sponsor: Manaslu 2010
bcdate: 2010-04-09
smtdate: 2010-04-30
termdate: 2010-05-08
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to bad weather & high wind
campsites: BC(09/04,4800m),C1(12/04,5700m),C2(24/04,6500m),C2.5(29/04,6900m),C3(30/04,7500m),xxx(30/04,7500m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Goni, Lagunilla, Porras, Soria, Chhang Dawa and Ngawa Gyalzen Sherpa left C2 at 8 am on 30 April. It took them about 8 hours to get to C3. It was very icy and it was snowing from about 7300m. They arrived at 4 pm at C3. It was very windy and it was difficult to pitch the tents, as the ground was very hard and icy. They stayed two nights at C3 and it was almost impossible to use the cooker to boil water as it kept on being blown out by they wind. After two days they descended to base camp, which took them about 12 hours. The snow was knee-deep and they were a bit worried about avalanches.

  They left the tents in the various camps as they were intending to do their summit push later. But the weather did not improve and they were were not able to move back up again.

  Carcavilla reached C2 on 24th April. He decided not to go any further as the slope looked very avalanche prone and he did not want to risk it. He spent one night at C2 and descended to BC the following day.

  Sherpas:
    Chhang Dawa Sherpa, Nurburchaur, Upper Walung, Makalu-9, Everest X3, Lhotse X1, 
      Makalu X2, Cho Oyu X1
    Ngawa Gyalzen (brother of Dawa), 2/8/81 (18/4/2038), Makalu-4, no 8000ers


expid: MANA10109
peakid: MANA
year: 2010
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Claude Labatut
sponsor: Expedition Manaslu 2010
approach: Arughat->Machha Khola->Filim Gap->Samagaon
bcdate: 2010-05-04
smtdate: 2010-05-25
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2010-05-28
campsites: BC(04/05,4800m),C1(06/05,5700m),C2(10/05,6450m),C3(11/05,6900m),C4(24/05,7400m),Smt(25/05)
agency: Expes.com Treks
routememo:
  Heymes, Bigard, Cantanese, Labatut, Lemordant, Pasquer and Fortier started from C4 at 2:30 am on 25 May. Portier was the first one to reach to the top at 10:30 am and last one was Bigard who reached to the top at 12 noon. The members spent between 15 to 20 minutes on the summit, due to narrow summit, members had to wait for summit members to come down. The team descended to C4 between 2-3 pm. They spent the night at C4. Next day to BC. The summit day weather was Ok with 45 km/ph wind speed, some clouds and it was cold -25 degrees. 

  This team was the last one on the mountain. There was snowfall almost every day after 10 am. The team saw a Korean body near C4 around 7500m and Japanese body below C4 along the climbing route.

  The team used a 6m long ladder between C1-C2 at 6200m. There was a red rope fixed on the final leg of the summit. 

  The frostbitten Albert was evacuated from BC by helicopter on 15 May. He probably left Kathmandu on 18 May.

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 2 June and will leave on 6 June.

accidents:
  Frostbite, second degree fingers of Albert (his crampons were not fixed properly and he had to take off his gloves to fix crampons between C2 & C3 on 11 May)


expid: MANA10110
peakid: MANA
year: 2010
route1: NE Face
nation: Poland
leaders: Jacek Berbeka
sponsor: JB 5 x 8000m summit in 12 montbs to Manaslu, Annapurna I
approach: Arughat->Jagat->Samagaon
bcdate: 2010-04-12
smtdate: 2010-05-02
termdate: 2010-05-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to strong winds and deep snow
campsites: BC(12/04,4700m),C1(15/04,5700m),C2(18/04,6500m),C3(01/05,7000m),xxx(02/05,7400m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Berbeka summit push started from BC to C2 on 30 April. He climbed to C3 on 1 May. On 2 May, he left C3 between 12-1 am and reached at about 7400m at about 5 am. It was very windy and started snow falling. No other climbers were willing to continue. Then Berbeka descended to C3 at about 6 am. He had to rest for some time. The wind was still blowing. He descended to BC where he arrived about 5 pm. 

  On his second bid to summit Berbeka left BC on 10 May to C2. On 11 May to C3 and continued towards C4 hoping to summit on 12 May. He was with three members of French expedition when Berbeka reached 7200m, very strong and started picking up. Then French went down. There was a danger of avalanche too, so Berbeka turned around, arrived at BC between 5-6 pm. The snow condition was knee-deep, ascending was very slow. There were three crevasses between C2 and C3. These too were dangerous. 

  Berbeka returned to Kathmandu on 19 May and will leave on 24 May. His plan to go to Annapurna was cancelled.


expid: MANA10108
peakid: MANA
year: 2010
route1: NE Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Joo-Hyung
sponsor: 2010 Korea Expressway Corporation Manaslu-Annapurna Expedition
approach: Arughat->Khola Bes->Jagat->Deng->Lec->Samagaon
bcdate: 2010-04-03
smtdate: 2010-04-23
termdate: 2010-04-20
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to bad weather and white-out
campsites: BC(03/04,4800m),C1(10/04,5400m),C2(15/04,6200m),C3(22/04,6900m),xxx(23/04,8100m)
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal
routememo:
  Kang, Kim Joo-Hyung, Kim Mi-Gon, Park, Yun, Sanu and Chinjung Bhote started from C3 at 10 pm on 22 April. Same time other independent Korean climber Kim Hong-Bin with two Sherpas too started from C3.

  Kim Joo-Hyung (expedition leader) turned around from about 7700m on 23 April and had to bivouac between C2 and C1. He reached BC on 24 April. Chinjung Bhote also turned around from about 7700m and waited in C1 for other members.

  Park turned around from 8000m on 22 April. He was very tired and decided not to continue. Three members Kang, Kim Mi-Gon, Yun and Sanu continued climbing. They reached just below the summit 8100m (email of Kang) on 23 April at around 1 or 2 pm. Suddenly, it became a white-out. The team waited for a while for clear weather, but it did not improve. Kim Mi-Gon said he saw the summit at some clear moment which was very near, but he could not say how near it was. The place where he stood was not the summit. The weather remained very bad and white-out continued. Then the climbers started descending and bived at 8000m together (Kang, Kim Mi-Gon, Yun, Sanu and other independent Korean climber Kim Hong-Bin and his two Sherpas). On the way down on 23 April, Kang reached around 7600m where Park was bivouacking Kang too bived there. Kang got frostbite in all fingers. Park also had frostbite in both hands and feet. He had thrown awy his gloves. Kang could not help Park to move down. Because Park was extremely exhausted and there was no strength to move by himself with frostbitten hands and legs.

  Kang continued his descend alone on 24 and reached at around 7100m in white-out and bived there. He managed to reach C3 on 25 April at around 11 am and to C2 on 26 April at about 6 am. He was rescued from C2 by helicopter to Samagaon and same day flown to Kathmandu by helicopter. He had treatment at Norvic Hospital. He left Kathmandu on 27 April.

  Kim Joo-Hyung turned around from about 7700m and bived between C2-C1 on 23 April. He reached BC on 24 April. Kim Joo-Hyung returned to Kathmandu on 8 May and left for Korea on 9 May.

  Kim Mi-Gon (climbing Leader) climbed up to 8050m (email of Kang). On descent he bived at 8000m with fellow climbers. He did not see Park while descending. He was at C3 on 24 April and on 25 in C2. He was exhausted and rescued from C2 by helicopter on 26 April. He left Kathmandu on 3 May. His left toes had minor frostbite.

  Park turned around from 8000m on 22 April due to tiredness. He stopped and bived at around 7600m. Kang bived with Park on 23 April. Park's both hands and feet were frostbitten. He was left alone there, because Kang with frostbitten hands and himself exhausted could not help Park to move down.

  Yun climbed up to 8100m with Kang and Kim Mi-Gon and Sanu. Yun bived at 8000m with his fellow climbers on 23 April. On 24 April while descending, Yun saw Park around 7600m and communicated to BC by walkie-talkie that he is trying to help Park to go down. The last heard from Yun was around 8 pm. After that nobody saw him.

  Cha, Lee and Shin remained in BC. They left BC on 13 April and Kathmandu on 20 April (according to Wangchu Sherpa of Trekking Camp).

  The fixed line put up by the expedition team was swept away by avalanche on 15 April.

  Note: The above information was given to me by Kang Yeon-Ryong on 2/6/2020 when he returned to Kathmandu to sort out pending works of the expedition.

  The altitudes are noted in approximation.

  The French expedition which summited Manaslu on 25 May 2010 found a dead Korean body (Park Haeng-Su) at 7500m. Pasquer of French expedition has sent a photo of the dead body.

  Accident:
    Kang both hands frostbitten.
    Kim Mi-Gon left toes frostbitten
    Park dead
    Yun missing

  Sherpas:
    Sanu Sherpa, 30/4/75, Walung, Makalu-Barun, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X2, Lhotse X1 
    Chinjung Bhote, 8/2/92 (25/10/2048), Hatiya-1


expid: PK0410101
peakid: PK04
year: 2010
route1: S Ridge
nation: Georgia
leaders: Merabi Nemsitsveridze
sponsor: Georgian Peak 4 Expedition
approach: Tumlingtar->Khanbari->Num->Sedua->Tashigaon->Dobata->Yangle Kharka
bcdate: 2010-05-17
smtdate: 2010-05-24
termdate: 2010-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to avalanche danger from fresh snow
campsites: BC(07/05,4750m),C1(23/05,5800m),C2(24/05,6400m),xxx(24/05,6400m)
agency: Unique Adventure International
routememo:
  Team memberes:
  1. Astakhishvili
  2. Buskhikutze
  3. Nemsitsveridze, Merabi (father)
  4. Nemsitsveridze, Saba (son)
  5. Shirbiladze

  Climbing route: From BC walk towards west then turn East up to South Ridge to South Shoulder then eastward approach to summit pyramid.

  BC about 60m below the Makalu BC, west of Arun river.
  BC to C1 about two hours easy walk on muddy, grass and rock tail.
  C1 at 5800m below Rock wall about 60m high on South Ridge.
  C2 at 6400 on South Ridge below rocky pyramid. Route between C1-C2 mainly dry rock - can be graded 4-5 Russian grade.

  On 24 May the team reached C2. The team planned to summit next day. Whole night snow fell. Nemsitsveridze said that following morning he saw the route it was not possible to follow up with lots of fresh snow. There was danger of avalanches on the route. Then he decided to call off the expedition.

  The returned to Kathmandu on 2 June and will leave on 10 June.


expid: PUMO10101
peakid: PUMO
year: 2010
route1: SE Face
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Janko Opresnik
sponsor: Pumori Expedition 2010
approach: Phakding->Namche->Dingboche->Lobuche
bcdate: 2010-04-25
smtdate: 2010-05-01
termdate: 2010-05-02
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to bad weather, rockfall, too dangerous to continue climbing
campsites: BC(25/04,5300m),ABC(27/04,5700m),xxx(01/05,6100m)
accidents: Falling piece of rock hit left side of body of Janko Opresnik (but not hurt)
agency: South Asian Treks
routememo:
  On 1 May the team and Sherpas planned to go to C2 from C1 but weather was very bad. Visibility was very poor and snowfall, they were at 6100m. Then decided to go down. They descended to ABC then to BC. the team returned to Kathmandu on 5 May and will leave on 11. 

  Sherpa:
    Wonchhu Sherpa, 22/6/67 (8/3/2024), Paiya, Jubing-7, Solu


expid: PUMO10102
peakid: PUMO
year: 2010
route1: SE Face
nation: Finland
leaders: Antti Waltari
sponsor: Finnventures to Pumori
approach: Phakding->Namche->Tengboche->Dingboche->Lobuche
bcdate: 2010-04-20
smtdate: 2010-05-08
termdate: 2010-05-10
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to deep snow and soft snow
campsites: BC(20/04,5300m),ABC(26/04,5750m),C1(30/04,6200m),xxx(08/05,6300m)
agency: Adventure Extreme
routememo:
  The team had targeted to summit on 9 May. They started their summit push on 6 May. The team slept at C1 on 7 May. On 8 May C2 then started snow falling whole day, it was a lot, 30 cm deep snow. It was not possible for the team to continue climbing; then they gave up and descended to BC. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 15 May. Rest of the members will leave on 16 May.

  Fixed rope: 1000m from ABC to C3.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Kazi, 27/5/73 (14/2/2030), Bhakanje-5. Pumori X2, Ama Dablam X1
    Phurba Cheten, 08/06/84 (26/2/2041), Khumjung, Everest X1, Manaslu X1

accidents:
  Pasang Kazi fell between C1 to ABC while descending (he was lifted from ABC by helicopter on 9 May, he now is Ok, his shoulder was swollen)


expid: PUMO10103
peakid: PUMO
year: 2010
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Piotr Pustelnik
sponsor: International Expedition to Pumori & Annapurna I
countries: Portugal, Romania, Russia, Slovakia
bcdate: 2010-03-20
smtdate: 2010-04-01
termdate: 2010-05-02
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to lack of ice screws and cold wind
othersmts: Climbed Annapurna I (ANN1-101-08)
campsites: BC(22/03,5350m),C1(24/03,5700m),C2(30/03,6400m),xxx(01/04,7000m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
primid: ANN110108
routememo:
  The members climberd Pumori to acclimatized before attempting their main goal, the summit of Annapurna I.

  Their BC was placed on 22 March at the normal site near lake at 5350m. On the 23rd they carried loads to C1 site at 5700m and the next day all members returned to the site to sleep for two nights, fix ropes and make a deposit of gear.

  They returned to BC on the 26th. On the 28th, Bogomolov, Colibasanu, Garcia, and Vinogradski returned to C1 to spend the night there. The next day, they made a deposit above the camp; Bogomolov and Vinogradski stayed in C1 while the other two members returned to BC.

  On the 30 all members mvoed up to C2 at 6400m below the East Col, and on the 31st they went up to check the route to the col and to fix ropes.

  They tried to go to the summit. All seven members left C2 at 6:00 am on 1 May. Hamor and Pustelnik turned back at 6700m, at the end of the fixed ropes because Pustelnik had no strength left; they descended to BC. The other five reached 7000m, about 150m below the top, at 2 pm and then retreated to C2. They did not have the ice screws they would need for the final climb to the summit, and they were being hit by strong northwesterly winds of up to 80 km/hour. Garcia's toes were getting numb: he was not ready for such cold wind. They arrived at C2 at 5:00 pm, where all except Colibasanu stayed; Colibasanu went on down to BC and joined Hamor and Pustelnik there at 9:00 pm. Everybody was in BC on the 2nd.

  Pustelnik had a slight case of pulmonary edema. He and Hamor left on the 3rd and the others left on the 5th. No one else had any health problems. A few rocks and ice blocks fell, but there were no snow avalanches, and one was hurt.


expid: PUTH10101
peakid: PUTH
year: 2010
route1: NE Face
nation: Australia
leaders: Mick Chapman
sponsor: Australian Putha Hiunchuli Expedition Spring 2010
ascent1: 37th
countries: UK
bcdate: 2010-04-30
smtdate: 2010-05-10
smttime: 1315
termdate: 2010-05-13
campsites: BC(30/04,4910m),C1(03/05,5225m),C2(06/05,5890m),C3(08/05,6275m),C4(09/05,6590m),Smt(10/05)
agency: Himalayan Mountain Guides
routememo:
  C1 lower than normal
  C3 on North Face
  C4 on North Face.

  On 19 April, the team flew from Kathmandu to Pokhara and next day took a charter flight to Juphal, then trekked to Dunai. From there they set out on foot for BC via Tarakot, Musi Khola and Kakot (3290m) to an acclimatization camp at 4155m for two nights, 25 and 26 April.

  Their itinerary called for their trek to BC on the 27th, but they stayed three nights at the so-called German BC at 4640m because of snowfall which dumped six inches of snow at this camp. Finally they could proceed to their BC at 4910m on the 30th.

  Once on the mountain, they moved steadily up to make four camps before going for the top. Four members and four Sherpas set out from C4 for the summit at 6:00 am on 10 May. They were Chapman, Haala, Harkins, Laurence, Kaji, Lhakpa Tenzi, Pasang and Pasang Rinji. All reached the top at 1:15-1:30 pm and returned to C4 at 4:30 pm. They descended to BC on the 11th.

  Non-summiting members:

  Johnson developed an ear infection. He went to C1 on 3 May with the others to establish the camp and spents two nights there but he retreated to BC on the 5th and stayed there throughout the rest of the climb. 

  Allen and Armitage went all the way up to C4 with the team on 9 May, but on the 10th, instead of joining the summit push, they descended to BC. They were not acclimatizing well. Furthermore they had been unsettled on the 8th by being caught in a windslab avalanche with Chapman when moving up between C2 and C3; They dug in with their ice axes and let the avalanches pass over them. They were not hurt, but the experience shook them.

  The only person to use oxygen was Armitage, who consumed it in C4.

  Sherpas:
    Kaji Sherpa, 24 years old, Kanku-5, Solu, no 8000ers
    Lhakpa Tenzi Sherpa, 33 years old, Lokhim-4, Solu, no 8000ers
    Pasang Sherpa, 9/3/74, Ngimar, Garma-5, Solu, Everest 19/5/06
    Pasang Rinji, 22 years old, Lukla, Solu, no 8000ers


expid: ROMA10201
peakid: ROMA
year: 2010
route1: N Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Tamotsu Ohnishi
sponsor: Osaka Alpine Club Roma Expedition
termnote: Abandoned due to route difficulty and shortage of food
accidents: Ohnishi's illness
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  The four-man team left Kathmandu on 9 May by bus to Surkhet and from there flew to Simikot the next day. They trekked south to their mountain, which is southwest of Saipal. Their intended climbing route was the North Face.

  They reached BC but no higher. The mountain looked too difficult for them, and they had a shortage of food, since they had been unable to buy supplies, as they had planned, at Simikot because the region was suffering from a food shortage. It was unexpectedly very hot, and Ohnishi had developed a stomach problem. They abandoned any idea of climbing the mountain and  returned to Kathmandu, on foot to Simikot, plane to Nepalgunj and another plane to Kathmandu, where they arrived on 7 June; they left Nepal on 9 June, a nearly two months earlier than expected monthly earlier than expected.


expid: TKRG10102
peakid: TKRG
year: 2010
route1: E Face-N Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Malgorzata Jurewicz
sponsor: Polish Takargo Expedition
approach: Beding & Rolwaling Khola to Na
bcdate: 2010-04-24
smtdate: 2010-05-05
termdate: 2010-05-09
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to fog and white-out
accidents: Marek Pawlowski illness
agency: Ang Rita Treks
campsites:
  BC(24/04,4500m),Biv1(26/04,5000m),Biv2(27/04,5200m),Biv3(28/04,5500m),Biv4(29/04,5700m),xxx(05/05,6100m)

routememo:
  BC   at southside of Tsho Rolpa (lake)
  Biv1 at Trakarding Glacier
  Biv2 at Drolomba Glacier, east side
  Biv3 at Drolomba Glacier, east side near Khubukam
  Biv4 on East Face of Takarago
  High point on East Face 100m below North Ridge.

  The four member team had no fixed camps above BC, only a series of bivouacs. They made their first bivouac on 26 April and their second one on the 27th. At the second bivouac, Gradzki became sick with stomach trouble and bad throat, so he and Garwolinski descended to BC; Garwolinski said he would rejoin the other two about two days later.

  On the 28th Jurewicz and Pawlowski went up to 5500m and the next day to 5700m. On the 30th they climbed up to 6000m, left some gear there and returned to their bivouac at 5700m.

  They now heard by walkie-talkie that there was some problem at BC, but they could not hear the message very well, so they descended to 5200m for better reception. They learned that their two BC staff, a cook and a man to look after the camp, had left. Garwolinski went to the nearest village, Na, west of Tsho Rolpa (lake), and learned that the two men had had a violent fight, throwing rocks at each other, and the cook was injured. Garwolinksi returned to BC, quite tired. On 1 May, and he and Gradzki went to 5200m. But Gradzki was still not well, and the two men abandoned their climb.

  Jurewicz and Pawlowski were at 5200m on 1 May. There was snowfall the next day, so they stayed in that bivy, but on the 3rd they moved up to 5700m. On the 4th they were plagued by a problem with their stove, which they fixed, and on 5 May, they tried to reach the North Ridge, from which they would go to the summit. They managed to reach 6100m, 100 meters below the ridge, in fog and white-out. This was their high point. They returned to 5700m and next day, the 6th, to 5500m.

  They checked the weather forecast, which said there would be bad weather for the next three days. They descend to BC on the 7th. They were running out of time; the climb was finished. They left BC on the 9th.

  Jurewicz and Pawlowski would like to return to Takargo and finish the route they had started on. Perhaps they should come earlier in the spring, as the Americans had, and perhaps approach the mountain from the west instead of from the east.


expid: TILI71301
peakid: TILI
year: 1971
route1: NE Spur-N Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Reinhold Messner
ascent1: 1st?
agency: Bepe Tenti
routememo:
  Messner said that in the late summer of 1971 he was the leader of a trekking group in the Annapurna-Tilicho area. The group consisted of 30 members from Italy's South Tirol, like himself. Arrangements in Kathmandu were handled by Bepe Tenti, who was very active in those days.

  Some of the members joined him in August 1971 on the NE Spur of Tilicho, but they got no higher than 6000m on the spur. He himself continued up the spur to the North Ridge and followed the ridge to the summit. This was the first ascent of Tilicho.

  In April 2010 he remembered no other details, but in one of his books, which has not been translated into English but its title in German means "All My Mountains," he notes this ascent (without details).


expid: LHOT10117
peakid: LHOT
year: 2010
route1: S Col-N Ridge-W Face (up); W Face (down)
nation: Italy
leaders: Simone Moro
sponsor: Everest-Lhotse 2010 Spring Expedition
countries: Kazakhstan
bcdate: 2010-04-07
smtdate: 2010-05-16
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2010-05-26
othersmts: Climbed Everest (EVER-101-73) by Moro
campsites: BC(07/04,5550m),C2(13/04,6350m),C3(26/04,7250m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
primid: EVER10173
routememo:
  Moro and his client Garioni arrived in Nepal in March and went first to Island Peak for Garioni's acclimatization, then proceeded to Everest BC, where they arrived on 7th April. They made no C1 on the 13th, then descended to BC the next day because they needed to rest and no ropes had been fixed yet above C3. 

  Urubko came to Nepal in April and reached BC on 22 April. He joined Garioni and Moro when they returned to C2 on the 25th and the three men established C3 on the 26th.

  Garioni and Moro took a helicopter to Kathmandu on 29 April for a better rest for Garioni and flew back to BC on 3 May. But now Garioni started feeling sick with a stomach virus, and on the 4th he again flew from BC to Kathmandu, this time alone, and left Nepal later that day.

  The Garioni-Moro attempt on Everest together had ended, but that of Moro and Urubko had not, and they pitched C4 at the South Col on 8 May. On the 9th they returned to BC to rest, went back to C2 on the 13th and to C3 in the 14th. On the 15th, while Urubko went up alone to C4, Moro climbed as high as the Yellow Band (7600m) to help in the planned evacuation by helicopter of the bodies of a Russian, Sergei Duganov, who had died there on 7th May from altitude sickness, and of a Swiss, Uwe Goeltz, who collapsed and died on 22 May 2008.

  On 16 May Urubko left C4 at 6:10 am to forge a new route on Lhotse. He moved from the Col to Lhotse's North Ridge and along the ridge for 600m. He then traversed for 1.5 km below the ridge, avoiding the pinnacles on the crest of the ridge, to the couloir at 8300m on the West Face, which he gained at about 10:00 am, and finished his climb up the normal route through the couloir. He did this entire day's climb without fixed ropes, making it difficult, and without oxygen, and reached the summit at 11:30 am. The weather was clear, the wind blowing at 40 km/hr. He descended to C2 by the normal Lhotse-Everest route at 4:00 pm and rejoined Moro in BC at 8:00 am on the 17th.

  On 20 May Moro left BC at 7:00 am and climbed in three hours and twenty minutes to C2. The next day he moved up at 7:00 am from C2 and reached C4 at 4:00 pm. He rested there, then left at midnight and at 6:20 am on 22 May, he gained the summit of Everest, where he found Koreans and Russians. He went down all the way to BC the same day and was back there at 4:30 pm.

  Urubko in his own bid for Everest's summit, left BC at 3:00 am on 23 May, but got no higher than C2. He was too tired to go on and was back in BC at 8:00 pm.

  The two climbers left BC on the 26th in a helicopter co-piloted by Moro flew to Kathmandu.

  Oxygen was used by Garioni when he was sick in BC, and by Moro while ascending the final 300 meters to the top because his fingers and toes were becoming numb.


expid: SHNW10101
peakid: SHNW
year: 2010
route1: S Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Colin Scott
sponsor: British Services Makalu Expedition
ascent1: 8th+
bcdate: 2010-04-04
termdate: 2010-05-28
othersmts: Attempted Makalu (MAKA-101-05)
campsites: BC(04/04,4800m),ABC(10/04,5800m),C1(15/04,6200m),Smt
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
primid: MAKA10105
routememo:
  While moving up and down between C1 and C2 on Makalu, their four climbing Sherpas and every member except Hornby and Jones went up and over the summit of Peak 3.


expid: AMAD10301
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Justin Carter
sponsor: International Ama Dablam 2010
approach: Lukla->Namche->Dingboche->Chhukung->Island Peak BC->Dingboche
bcdate: 2010-10-12
smtdate: 2010-10-24
termdate: 2010-10-27
termnote: Abandoned at 5950m due to no fixed rope above C2 & not enough time to wait for it
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak on 11 Oct by both members
campsites: BC(12/10,4500m),C1(15/10,5670m),C2(24/10,5950m),xxx(24/10,5950m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  The team had acclimatization on Island Peak. The team moved gear to C2. The team did not sleep in C2. Nobody put up fixed ropes beyond C2. Weather was perfect and the members were ready. There was not enough time to wait for until somebody put up the ropes.

  Sherpas:
    Mingma Temba Sherpa, 19/1/80, 5/10/2036, Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha, 
      Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1
    Pema Sherpa, 28/8/73, 12/05/2030, Ekuwa, Pathivara-1, Everest X2


expid: CHAN10301
peakid: CHAN
year: 2010
route1: SW Face-N Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hirofumi Kobayashi
sponsor: Doshisha University Western Nepal Expedition to Changla
ascent1: 1st
approach: Bus to Simikot & beyond to roadhead, then trek up Chuwa Khola
bcdate: 2010-09-06
smtdate: 2010-09-27
smttime: 1140
termdate: 2010-10-02
campsites: BC(06/09,4700m),C1(21/09,5500m),C2(26/09,6090m),Smt(27/09)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC on Chuwa Khola
  C1 on North Ridge
  C2 on Col in ridge.

  Changla is in northwest Nepal, northeast of Mt. Saipal on the border with Tibet. The team took a bus to Simikot and not far beyond, to the end of the road, then trekked along the Chuwa Khola east to Damjam and followed the river as it turned north to the border. The base camp was pitched beside the small river.

  Next, they made a reconnaissance to find a good climbing route, and they had a temporary C1 at 5000m where they stayed for four or five days while they observed the SW Face. Their decision was to get onto the North Ridge, which delineates the border, from the SW Face of this ridge (the face is on Tibetan side of the border). Their temporary camp was actually at the bottom of this face.

  They returned to BC on 14 Sept. A period of rain and snow kept them in camp until the 21st, when they returned to the camp and climbed higher and pitched a permanent C1 at 5500m on the ridge. On the 22nd they started to make the route along the ridge on mixed rock and ice. They finally established C2 on the 26th at a col on the ridge at 6090m.

  The following day, 27 September, the four members attacked the summit from C2. They left the camp at 4:00 am on "a beautiful day - no wind, no clouds." They gained the top at 11:40 am after having surmounted a 300m high icefall just above C2 (from 6100m to 6400m, where they fixed the only rope on the route).

  They got back to C2 at 11:30 pm. Their return was very slow because they decided they should descend via the long fluted North Ridge into Tibet and down to the glacier at the foot of the ridge. They walked along the glacier and then up onto the ridge to C2.

  On the 28th, Nakatsukasa and Shibayama descended to C1 while the Kobayashi and Yamaguchi packed up their high camp and joined their teammates in BC on the 29th.

  They left BC on 2 October, trekked to Simikot, flew to Surkhet, and took a bus to Kathmandu, which they reached on the 6th.


expid: CHOY10302
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: Canada
leaders: Meagan McGrath
sponsor: Mountain Magic Cho Oyu Expedition
countries: USA
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-09-10
smtdate: 2010-10-01
termdate: 2010-10-03
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to high winds
campsites: BC(10/09,4900m),ABC(13/09,5700m),C1(19/09,6400m),C2(20/09,7000m),C3(01/10,7500m),xxx(01/10,7500m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  On the summit push McGrath spent two nights at C2 at 7000m. The reason why she spent two nights was that she was waiting for some other Asian Trekking members to arrive who she wanted to climb with.

  On 1 Oct McGrath left C2 at 10:30 am (NST). She partnered up with two Czechs, Tony and  Petra. McGrath arrived at C3 at 1:30 pm and started digging the platforms for her and the two Czechs as they only arrived one and a half hours later.

  As the night of 1 Oct was very windy, they decided to abandon their summit push and go down rather than up. On 2 Oct at about 8:30 am they left C3 to descend to ABC, where they arrived at 4:30 pm.

  Alstrin reached C2 on 20 Sept, but he did not stay the night. He was filming McGrath. However, he did not acclimatize properly and decided not to go back up to continue his filming.

  Hughes reached Chinese Base Camp, but did not feel well and left the expedition on 16 Oct. 

  Oxygen: 
    Not taken, not used


expid: CHOY10303
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Olivier Levasseur
sponsor: Argentinean-French Cho Oyu
countries: Argentina
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-09-12
smtdate: 2010-10-02
termdate: 2010-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 7550m due to risk of avalanche, strong wind
campsites: BC(12/09,4950m),ABC(15/09,5700m),C1(20/09,6400m),C2(26/09,7100m),xxx(02/10,7550m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Levasseur and Toiga during their acclimatization climbed up to 7550m on 2 Oct and gave up further attempt due to strong wind, risk of avalanches and no route opening. Weather forecast was not favourable.

  De Aglis went up to C2 on 2 Oct.

  There was no summit attempt by this team.


expid: CHOY10304
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Mario Mochet
sponsor: Italian Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Lhasa->Xigaze->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-09-02
smtdate: 2010-09-25
termdate: 2010-09-02
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to avalanche risk
campsites: BC(02/09,4750m),ABC(05/09,5700m),C1(11/09,6400m),C2(25/09,7200m),xxx(26/09,7200m)
agency: Campobase Treks
routememo:
  All four members of the team reached C2 on 25 Sept and spent night there for acclimatization. After the second avalanche on 27 Sept, the team decided to give up climbing due to the risk of avalanche.


expid: CHOY10305
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: Austria
leaders: Josef Doppler
sponsor: Austrian Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 2010-09-10
smtdate: 2010-09-26
termdate: 2010-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to windy and very cold
campsites: BC(10/09,5100m),ABC(15/09,5690m),C1(16/09,6410m),C2(19/09,6850m),xxx(26/09,7100m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  High point at normal C2.

  On 26 September, Hastelsteiner climbed up to 7100m to place a tent there, the usual site for C2, for future use. He then returned to the team's low C2 and joined the other members the next day in their descent to ABC. This altitude of 7100m turned out to be the highest point that any of them reached.

  In the whole team's bid for the summit, the four members started up from C1 on 1 October and reached their low C2 at 6850m. But the strong cold wind drove them down to C1 on the 2nd and on the 3rd to ABC. They now abandoned the climb.


expid: CHOY10306
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Fabrizio Zangrilli
sponsor: Field Touring Alpine Cho Oyu Expedition 2010
countries: Canada, Mexico
bcdate: 2010-09-09
smtdate: 2010-09-21
termdate: 2010-10-10
termnote: Abandoned at 7050m due to wind and avalanche danger
campsites: BC(09/09),ABC(10/09,5700m),C1(13/09,6400m),C2(21/09,7050m),xxx(21/09,7050m)
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
routememo:
  High point at 7050m at C2.

  The team made C2 at 7050m on 21 September and then descended to ABC the next day because of strong wind and avalanche danger.

  On 1 October they tried to go to the summit, but got no higher than C1 and back to ABC on the 2nd. Then the weather changed, and all four members plus Siddhi Bahadur Tamang climbed to C1 on the 4th and to C2 on the 5th.

  But again the weather deteriorated and they retreated to ABC on the 6th after deciding on the 5th that, in the face of recurring strong wind and avalanche danger, their climb was finished.


expid: CHOY10307
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Hirotaka Takeuchi
sponsor: Japan Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 2010-09-03
smtdate: 2010-09-30
termdate: 2010-10-04
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(03/09,4900m),ABC(07/09,5680m),C1(13/09,6420m),C2(19/09,7100m),xxx(30/09,7700m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  From ABC on 28 September Nakajima and Takeuchi moved up to C1, on the 29th up to C2. At midnight of 29/30 September they set out for the summit. 

  At 7:00 am (NST) on the 30th they got to 7700m, when ice blocks in avalanche debris were threatening to come down. They retreated all the way to ABC, where they arrived at 7:07 pm, and abandoned their climb because of the very bad snow conditions including avalanche danger.


expid: CHOY10308
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: Nepal
leaders: Sumit Joshi
sponsor: Australian Cho Oyu Expedition 2010
countries: Australia, Sweden
approach: Lhasa->Xigaze->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-09-06
smtdate: 2010-09-18
termdate: 2010-09-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to avalanche risk
campsites: BC(06/09,4700m),ABC(10/09,5700m),C1(15/09,6400m),C2(17/09,7200m),xxx(18/09,7200m)
agency: Himalayan Ascent
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 9 Sept at 5100m.

  The team planned their summit push for 27-28 Sept and all members and Sherpas went to C2 on 26 Sept and spent the night there. There was an avalanche. On 27 Sept the team went down to ABC.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Kaji, 11/5/78, Sisuwakhola, Makalu, Manaslu X1, Everest X4
    Jangbu, 20/7/87, Chitre, Sisuwakhola-9
    Lhakpa, 25/7/68, Tamku-9, Sankhuwasabha, Cho Oyu X2


expid: CHOY10309
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Ralf Arnold
sponsor: International Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-09-09
smtdate: 2010-10-01
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2010-10-05
campsites: ABC(09/09,5700m),C2(30/09,7100m),Smt(01/10)
achievment: 1st person to summit in the season
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Arnold started his summit bid from C2 on 30 Sept at 11 pm NST. He reached summit at 10:30 am on 1 Oct. He spent about 10 minutes on the summit, then descended to C2 at 2 pm. Then to C1 at 6 pm and slept there. Next day to ABC. Weather condition was good with little northern wind and it was cold. Had pictures of Everest. Snow condition on summit plateau was not good. It broke almost every step that made walking a bit difficult. 

  Next day on 2 Oct Alix Von Melle from Munich and one more climber together summited Cho Oyu in strong wind.


expid: CHOY10310
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Silvio Mondinelli
sponsor: Italian Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-09-14
smtdate: 2010-09-26
termdate: 2010-09-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to danger of avalanche
campsites: BC(14/09,4880m),ABC(16/09,5700m),C1(18/09,6300m),C2(26/09,7200m),xxx(26/09,7200m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  The team did not attempt for summit due to danger of avalanche. 

  Dalla Rosa went up to 6600m. He left the expedition on 28 Sept and left Nepal on 30 Sept due to the work back home. 

  Pesci went up to mid-camp on 15 Sept. He had cough and left expedition on 17 Sept and left KTM on 19 Sept.


expid: CHOY10311
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Sean James
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Cho Oyu Expedition 2010
countries: Ireland
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-09-05
smtdate: 2010-09-20
termdate: 2010-10-01
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to deep snow and avalanche risk
campsites: BC(05/09,4800m),ABC(09/09,5700m),C1(15/09,6400m),C2(20/09,7100m),xxx(20/09,7100m)
accidents: Cronin suffered from high altitude sickness (vomiting)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 8 Sept at 5353m.

  The team planned to make its summit push on 27 Sept. After two avalanches, the team decided to abandon the expedition due to avalanche risk. 

  Griffin left ABC on 29 Sept and he left Kathmandu on 2 Oct. 

  Cronin suffered from AMS at C1 on 15 Sept; he left expedition on 24 Sept, arrived Kathmandu on 26 Sept and probably left for home on 28 Sept. 

  Power spent a night at C2 on 15 Sept.


expid: CHOY10312
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Teddy Anderson
sponsor: Team Anderson Cho Oyu
bcdate: 2010-09-14
smtdate: 2010-09-25
termdate: 2010-10-01
termnote: Abandoned at 7070m due to deep snow and avalanche danger
campsites: BC(14/09),ABC(16/09,4755m),C1(23/09,6187m),xxx(25/09,7070m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  26th down to ABC; to BC 1 Oct.

  Sherpa reached 7070m, Anderson reached 7000m.

  Sherpa:
    Sonam Tashi, 3/12/71, Khumjung, Cho Oyu X5


expid: CHOY10313
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Casey Grom
sponsor: Rainier Mountaineering (RMI) Cho Oyu Expedition 2010
approach: Lhasa->Xigaze->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-09-11
smtdate: 2010-09-28
termdate: 2010-10-03
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to bad weather, avalanche danger
campsites: BC(11/09,4900m),ABC(14/09,5700m),C1(21/09,6400m),Mbrs(25/09,7000m),Shrpa(28/09,7900m)
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  Grom, Pasang Tendi and Lama Babu along with Amos, Lacey and Scaife left C1 at 9 am (NST) on 25 Sept. It was very warm and it had snowed a lot. Amos, Lacey and Scaife reached about 6900m (above the ice cliff), but turned around at 1 pm as it was getting late in the day and the team was only going to touch C2. Pasang Tendi had already been to C2 and dropped his load and when he came down the team turned back with him. Grom carried on to C2 without the group and dropped his load at about 1:40 pm. He then descended to C1, where he met the others. They all spent the night there. The next day they all went back to ABC.

  Pasang Tendi, together with six other Sherpas from IMG, AC and HG did some rope fixing on 28 Sept. They left C2 at 7:45 am to go above C3 and fix the rope at the Yellow Band. When they reached about 7900m at noon, they triggered a slab avalanche, which was about 1 meter thick. The Sherpas were clipped to a rope and fell about 50m. Fortunately one anchor to which the rope was fixed held, which probably saved the Sherpas lives. Nobody was seriously injured. After the avalanche happened the Sherpas descended to C1, where they met Grom and then continued to ABC.

  The 28th was also the day on which Grom's team tried another summit push. During this attempt they stayed two nights at C1, but the weather was too bad, so they abandoned the climb on 1 October.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Tendi, Yaphu-9, Makalu, 27/10/83, Everest X8 (in 2009 with RMI)
    Lama Babu, Cheremy, Bung-9, Solu, 23/09/1968, Everest X4

  Oxygen:
    Taken, not used


expid: CHOY10314
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Marek Wencel
sponsor: Independent American on Cho Oyu
bcdate: 2010-09-09
smtdate: 2010-09-20
termdate: 2010-10-01
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to avalanche danger
campsites: BC(09/09),ABC(13/09,6000m),xxx(20/09,7100m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Sherpas refused to go very high because of avalanches.

  Sherpa:
    Nima Kancha, 15/5/80, Kangchenjunga, Everest X2, Lhotse X1


expid: CHOY10315
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: Argentina
leaders: Adrian Jorge Sanchez
sponsor: Expedition Argentina Himalayan 2010
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-09-09
smtdate: 2010-10-07
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2010-10-10
campsites: BC(09/09,4900m),ABC(13/09,5700m),C1(15/09,6400m),C2(19/09,7135m),Smt(07/10)
achievment: Probably 6th Argentinean to top Cho Oyu
agency: Chomolungma Pilgrimage
routememo:
  Sanchez started his summit bid alone from C2 on 7 Oct at 6 am NST. He reached the top around 2 pm (he did not carry a watch). He used a GPS borrowed from another Argentinean climber Maximo Kausch. Sanchez returned to C2 at 5 pm and spent the night there. On 8 Oct he slept at C1 and next day to ABC. The weather on summit day was windy and blowing snow and did not see Everest as it was cloudy.

  Hernandez went up to C1 and slept there on 4 Oct. His plan was to be in BC in C1 and not to attempt for summit. 

  Ruiz went up to C2 on 2 Oct. He left BC and arrived Kathmandu on 4 Oct and departed on 6 Oct. He was was on holiday and had to go back to his job.


  Max Kausch - 10 April 2011

  Max Kausch says he did not loan a GPS unit to Sanchez, but he did meet Sanchez and his two mates in Zhangmu and gave them the GPS waypoints of the summit region in case it was cloudy. Kausch thinks that Sanchez transferred these waypoints to his own GPS unit.


expid: CHOY10316
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: Denmark
leaders: Jakob Urth
sponsor: Independent Dane on Cho Oyu
bcdate: 2010-09-10
smtdate: 2010-10-06
smttime: 1456
termdate: 2010-10-08
campsites: BC(10/09,5000m),ABC(12/09,5700m),C1(14/09,6350m),C2(20/09,7100m),Smt(06/10)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Urth arrived at BC on 10 September with other Asian Trekking's small parties, and he often climbed with them: Ms. Tamara Lunger from Italy, Josep Doppler from Austria, and Rupert Hauer, the leader of a small Austrian-German team.

  On 15th Sept he went up from C1 with Lunger to 6800m and down to ABC on his first acclimatization trip. On the 20th he and Lunger climbed together from ABC to C1, and on the 21st he continued up to C2 to spend one night there and again down to ABC.

  He spent five full days in ABC resting during a period of snowy weather. Then he returned to C1 on the 28th and with Hauer and a member of his group, Ms Alix Von Melle, climbed to C2 the next day. But instead of continuing his ascent, on 1 October he had to descend to ABC because stomach trouble had left him weak.

  He set out again for the top from ABC on the 4th. The day after that he was in C2, and from here he launched his summit bid. He and others left C2 at 2:00 am (NST) on 6 Oct, and he stood on the top at precisely 2:56 pm. He was sure he summited because he spent two hours walking around the summit plateau to get to the highest point. Furthermore, he saw Everest from one of these points. He returned to C2 at about 8:00 pm. The long day had been cold and very windy.

  Urth arrived back at ABC on the 7th and now discovered that his right big toe was frostbitten. It will heal completely, but in order to protect it from the damage of walking on it, he rode a motorbike from an intermediate camp between ABC and BC at 5500m to BC, from where he could travel on four wheels to Kathmandu.


expid: CHOY10317
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Tamara Lunger
sponsor: Independent Italian on Cho Oyu
bcdate: 2010-09-09
smtdate: 2010-10-02
termdate: 2010-10-16
termnote: Abandoned at 7550m due to cold winds
campsites: BC(09/09),ABC(13/09,5650m),C1(16/09,6320m),C2(21/09,6930m),xxx(02/10,7550m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Before tackling Cho Oyu, Ms. Lunger climbed an unnamed peak on the Tibet-Nepal border northwest of the Nangpa La; it is the first peak on the west side of the pass. Its altitude is given as 6192m on the Nepa Cho Oyu map; her altimeter showed 6118m. She climbed it easily on 25 September and skied down from its summit to about 5650m in five minutes at 11:45 am.

  On Cho Oyu, she left C2 for the summit alone at 11:00 pm (NST) on 1 October. She reached 7550m in cold and windy weather and turned around. She was back in C2 at 4:00 am, slept there for three hours, and descended to ABC.

  It was not until 12 October that she launched her second summit bid from ABC. On the 14th she went up from C2 with Santiago Quintero from Ecuador. At 7300m she stopped her ascent: Quintero's pace was too slow for her, but she didn't want to go on up alone. She returned to ABC that day and abandoned her climb.

  There was another reason for her decision to quit: "I had a bad feeling that this mountain is not my friend...I think you have to pay aatention to these feelings."

  She had been very upset about the death on Cho Oyu of a compatriot, Walter Nones, who fell to his death on 2 October while climbing on a different route from hers. (She had gone a few other climbers from ABC to help Nones' teammate bring the body down from where it lay.)

  On her last day at ABC, she tripped on a stone and pulled a ligament in her right ankle. (She will seek medical attention back in Italy, but was walking on it in Kathmandu without a limp).


expid: CHOY10318
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Rupert Hauer
sponsor: DAV Summit Club Cho Oyu Expedition
countries: Austria
bcdate: 2010-09-10
smtdate: 2010-10-02
smttime: 1115
termdate: 2010-10-05
campsites: BC(10/09,4900m),ABC(13/09,5690m),C1(16/09,6410m),C2(19/09,6850m),C3(01/10,7500m),Smt(02/10)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  The team's summit bid started from C3 on 2 October, when all three members left the camp at 4:15 am (NST). Reininger climbed only 100 meters above camp, then at 4:45 am he found the weather too cold and too windy, and he descended to ABC.

  The other members, Hauer and von Melle, continued their climb. They took one hour and a half to cross the summit plateau. The wind was blowing at 50 km/hr and clouds obstructed the view of Everest and Lhotse, but they are confident that they were actually on the summit: they were on the eastern edge of the plateau, and there was no higher bump/peak. Hauer reachd the summit at 11:15 am and von Melle got there fifteen minutes later, thus becoming the first German woman to claim the summits of four eight-thousanders.

  They left the top at 11:30 am and descended to C2. The next day they joined Reininger in ABC.


expid: CHOY10319
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: Hungary
leaders: Lajos Kollar
sponsor: Cho Oyu Rehab
bcdate: 2010-09-10
smtdate: 2010-09-22
termdate: 2010-10-03
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to bad conditions
agency: Ang Rita Treks
campsites:
  BC(10/09,4900m),ABC(12/09,5700m),C1(15/09,6400m),C2(22/09,6800m),Sherpa(22/09,7100m),Mbrs(01/10,7100m)

routememo:
  C2 at low C2 site
  High point at normal C2 site.

  Before attempting to climb Cho Oyu, seven members (not including Mecs, who arrived in Kathmandu later than the others, or Kollar) plus Pemba Nuru trekked onto the Rongbuk Glacier and up to the site of ABC for Everest climbers via the normal northern route in order to acclimatize.

  The team's C2 was pitched below the normal C2 site: it was placed at 6800m on 20 September. On the 22nd, Pemba Nuru climbed up to the normal site at 7100m to put a tent there.

  On 30 Oct all members except Kollar returned to their low C2, and on 1 October they went up to the normal site of C2 just to have a look with no intention of staying there. They returned to their low, except for Wetzl, who took his skis with him to 7100m and skied down to C1 at 6400m. On 2 October all were back in ABC.

  They had already decided on 30 September not to attempt the summit because Japanese and South Koreans told them that snow conditions higher on the mountain were very bad.

  Kollar was not really a climber. He went up to C1 on his only trip above ABC; he spent the night of 17 September there. He had not been expected to climb.

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Nuru, 17/1/77, Thamiteng, Namche-8, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X1


expid: CHOY10320
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Chris Klinke
sponsor: Foursome on Cho Oyu
countries: France, Sweden
bcdate: 2010-09-05
smtdate: 2010-09-17
termdate: 2010-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7150m due to strong wind
campsites: BC(05/09,4900m),ABC(08/09,5700m),C1(11/09,6400m),C2(17/09,7150m),xxx(17/09,7150m)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  Every time the team got to C2, they were hit by strong wind and forced to retreat to ABC. This happened to them on the 17th and 24th of September and the 6th and 13th of October. And, in addition to the winds, there was frequent snowfall, loading the slopes above C2. They never climbed above C2.

  They had hoped to go to the summit on 15 October, but after black clouds started building up on the 14th at about 12:40 pm and came in at 2 pm, they retreated to ABC, clearing their camp as they descended, and reached ABC at 6:30 pm. They had abandoned the climb.

  It started snowing that night: at ABC, four inches (ten centimeters) fell during the night. The black clouds delivered their loads.

  All members on the mountain and both Sherpas climbed together always. 

  Tredway left the team on 8 October as he had planned; he had to meet his wife in Thailand.

  Sherpas:
    Tshering Dorje/Chiring Dorje, 25/10/74, Beding, Cho Oyu X4, Everest X10, etc.
    Tashi Sherpa, 18/4/79, Namche Bazar/Beding, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X5


expid: CHOY10321
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Domenic Lanz
sponsor: Domenic Lanz Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 2010-09-09
smtdate: 2010-09-21
termdate: 2010-09-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to avalanche danger
campsites: BC(09/09,4900m),ABC(12/09,5700m),C1(19/09,6400m),xxx(21/09,7100m)
agency: Ramdung Expedition
routememo:
  27 Sept to ABC; 26 Sept to C1 and slept there; 27 Sept to ABC; 30th left.

  On 21 Sept, Lanz to 6900m and Domi Sherpa to 7100m.

  Sherpa:
    Domi Sherpa, 34 years old, Phaplu, Solu


expid: CHOY10322
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: Serbia
leaders: Dragan Jacimovic
sponsor: Extreme Summit team to Cho Oyu
countries: Bosnia-Herzegovina, Croatia, Slovenia
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-09-03
smtdate: 2010-09-14
termdate: 2010-10-02
termnote: Abandoned at 7132m due to bad weather, risk of avalanche
campsites: BC(03/09,4600m),ABC(07/09,5600m),C1(11/09,6400m),C2(14/09,7100m),xxx(14/09,7132m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 06 Sept at 5200m.

  The team members and Sherpas went up to 7132m on their acclimatization process on 14 Sept. On 15 Sept the members and Sherpas got down to ABC. The team waited for good weather in ABC, but it remained bad weather; then the team gave up. 

  Bubica remained in ABC due to stomach problem.

  Sherpas:
    Phurba Ridar Bhote, 1/1/1958, Chepuwa, Makalu-Barun, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2
    Chheten Dorje Sherpa, 28/5/1987, Pangboche, Everest X1
    Kul Bahadur Magar, 31/7/1970, Taluwa-9, Okhaldhunga, Everest X2
    Phu Tashi Sherpa, 1/11/1973, Khumjung
    Mingma Dukpa Sherpa, 28 yrs, 29/6/80, Yaphu-9, Makalu-Barun, Cho Oyu X1, 
      Everest X3


expid: CHOY10323
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: Ecuador
leaders: Santiago Quintero
sponsor: Ecuadorian Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-09-11
smtdate: 2010-10-06
termdate: 2010-10-16
termnote: Abandoned at 8150m due to high wind and fatigue
campsites: BC(11/09,4800m),ABC(15/09,5750m),C1(22/09,6400m),C2(25/09,7200m),xxx(06/10,8150m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 14 Sept at 5400m.

  Quintero's first attempt started from C2 at 2 am on 6 Oct. He reached 8150m at 1:30 pm then turned around to C2 at 5:30 pm. It was windy very cold. Next day he went down to ABC. 

  His second summit push started from ABC on 12 Oct to C1. On 13 Oct to C2. On 14 Oct he stopped at 8000m at about 3:30 pm. It was too late and he was very tired. Back to C2 at 6 pm. Next day to ABC at 7 pm; he was very tired.


expid: HIML10302
peakid: HIML
year: 2010
route1: NW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Sang-Bae
sponsor: International Korean Himlung Expedition
ascent1: 36th
approach: Besisahar->Taal->Koto->Kang->Phu
bcdate: 2010-10-06
smtdate: 2010-10-19
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2010-10-21
campsites: BC(06/10,4870m),C1(09/10,5500m),C2(11/10,6000m),C3(18/10,6400m),Smt(19/10)
achievment: 1st Korean team to summit Himlung
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Jeong, Kim Seong-Sang, Oh, Tshering Thundu and Samden Bhote started at 2 am on 19 Oct from C3. The team reached summit at 4 pm, stayed on summit for about 30 minutes and descended to C3 where the first one arrived at 10 pm and last arrived at 1 am on 20 Oct. On 20 Oct leader spent a night at C1, rest of the member descended to BC.

  Sherpas:
    Tshering Thundu Sherpa, 18/06/74 (18/06/2031), Khumjung-2
    Samden Bhote, 25/07/79 (09/04/2036, Hatiya-2


expid: LANG10301
peakid: LANG
year: 2010
route1: E Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiroyoshi Manome
sponsor: Langtang Lirung Climbing Team
approach: Bus to Syabru Besi, east on Langtang Khola to Kyanjin Gompa
bcdate: 2010-10-13
smtdate: 2010-10-15
termdate: 2010-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 4150m due to East Face too dangerous
campsites: BC(13/10,3800m),ABC(15/10,4150m),xxx(15/10,4150m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at Kyanjin Gompa.

  The team reached the mountain from the west, trekking eastward along the Langtang Khola to Kyanjin Gompa, where they made their BC on 13 October.

  On the 15th, the two members went north on the west side of the Lirung Glacier to Sangbu, which is just a yak herders hut near the moraine, and here they made ABC at 4150m in order to examine the East Face, which they wanted to try to climb. Using a telescope, they spent the day searching for a suitable route up one of the many ribs on the face. What they found on all the ribs was a large number of seracs, which were standing, and falling rocks, which were falling onto seracs.

  On 16 October, they returned to BC and spent the day discussing what to do now; the face was too dangerous to attempt. Since they were not interested in climbing the normal route on the SE Ridge, they decided to leave the mountain altogether.

  Manome remarked that this was shortest expedition he had ever been on.


expid: MANA10304
peakid: MANA
year: 2010
route1: NE Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Stefano Febbroni
sponsor: Stefano Febbroni Manaslu Expedition
bcdate: 2010-09-15
smtdate: 2010-10-06
termdate: 2010-10-08
termnote: Abandoned at 7850m due to deep snow and too late to continue
campsites: BC(15/09,4850m),C1(21/09,5400m),C2(26/09,6300m),C3(27/09,6800m),C4(05/10,7400m),xxx(06/10,7850m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  In his summit bid on 6 October, Febbroni started out from C4 at 8:00 am with three Spaniards from two different teams, Sechu Lopez and Xavi Arias and his teammate Unai Llantada. But they went at their separate paces and reached different points on the mountain. Febbroni got to 7850m at about 2:00 pm and then turned around. It was too late for a safe trip to the top and back to C4. The deep snow had made progress slow and tiring. He retreated to C2 that day and BC the next day.


expid: MANA10301
peakid: MANA
year: 2010
route1: NE Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Mario Castiglioni
sponsor: Mariolaguida (MLG) Expedition Manaslu
countries: Bulgaria, Switzerland
approach: Arughat-Mechha Khola->Jagat->Namrung->Samagaon
bcdate: 2010-09-10
smtdate: 2010-09-30
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2010-10-02
campsites: BC(10/09,4800m),C1(14/09,5800m),C2(20/09,6800m),C3(29/09,7450m),Smt(30/09,01/10)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Bohny, Martinelli, Ronkoroni, Schneidt and Nima Gyalzen Sherpa started their summit push on 30 Sept at 7 am. Bohny turned around from about 7600m due to tiredness and descended to BC same day. Martinelli turned around from 8050m to C2 due to tiredness. Roncoroni, Schneidt and Nima Gyalzen continued their ascent and reached the top. Schneidt at 3 pm stayed on summit about 10 minutes and descended C2 which he reached at about 6:30 pm. Roncoroni and Nima Gyalzen reached summit at 4 pm, stayed on summit for less than 10 minutes and descended to C3 at around 6 pm. Next day all got down to BC. 

  On 1 Oct Castiglioni and Rita Dorje started from C3 at 6:30 am, reached the top at 1 pm. They stayed on summit for about 10 minutes, descended to C2 at 7 pm. Next day went down to Samagaon.

  Baggi slept in BC; he left BC on 20 Sept, reached Kathmandu on 25 and left on 26 Sept. 

  Riva climbed up to C1 slept there on 14 Sept; he did not continue climbing due to leg pain.

  Shipkova climbed until below C2 (6600m) on 20 Sept and gave up, due to tiredness.

  Fixed rope: 200m between C1 to C2.

  Sherpas:
    Nima Gyalzen, 9/8/85 (25/4/2042), Beding, Dolakha, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X2
    Rita Dorje, 24/10/77 (8/7/2034), Phortse, Khumjung-9, Everest X7


expid: MANA10302
peakid: MANA
year: 2010
route1: NE Face
nation: Canada
leaders: Frederic Bleau
sponsor: DeFi Manaslu 2010
approach: Arughat->Samagaon
bcdate: 2010-09-10
smtdate: 2010-09-30
termdate: 2010-10-02
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to high winds
campsites: BC(10/09,4700m),C1(17/09,5550m),C2(24/09,6270m),C3(28/09,6800m),C4(29/09,7400m),xxx(30/09,7700m)
agency: Mountain Tribes Trekking
routememo:
  High point team left C4 at 7 am. It was very windy. They reached 7700m at 9 am, but it was too windy and they turned back. Slept at C1. 

  Frederic Bleau reached 7500m on 30 Sept; he turned back due to exhaustion and cold.

  Boutin reached 7100m on 29 Sept; he was feeling strong, but there were too many people on fixed rope. He descended to C3, where he stayed night.

  Morin reached 7100m on 29 Sept, then abandoned climb due to headache.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Nuru, 26/9/72, Yilajung, Khumbu, Everest X9, Cho Oyu X3


expid: MANA10303
peakid: MANA
year: 2010
route1: NE Face
nation: Mexico
leaders: Mauricio Lopez
sponsor: Unaparejaenascenso in Manaslu
approach: Arughat->Mechha Khola->Jagat->Deng->Namrung->Samagaon
bcdate: 2010-09-09
smtdate: 2010-10-01
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2010-10-03
campsites: BC(09/09,4900m),C1(14/09,5700m),C2(19/09,6400m),C3(28/09,6900m),C4(30/09,7500m),Smt(01/10)
achievment: 1st Mexican couple without oxygen and without Sherpas
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Bonilla and Lopez (couple) started their summit push at 9 am on 1 October from C4 (7500m). They reached summit at 2:30 pm, stayed on summit about 10 minutes, then back to C4 at 6 pm. They spent the night at C4. The couple left C4 at about 11 am and reached BC at 10 pm. The summit day weather was good; little windy, but on the top there was a strong wind. 

  The couple were the last ones to summit on that day. According to Lopez at least 20 climbers summited on that day.


expid: MANA10305
peakid: MANA
year: 2010
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Carlos Soria
sponsor: Manaslu 2010 Expedition
approach: Arughat->Samagaon
bcdate: 2010-09-14
smtdate: 2010-10-01
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2010-10-06
campsites: BC(14/09,4700m),C1(20/09,5500m),C2(26/09,6300m),C3(30/09,7400m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Smt: Soria and Muktu Lhakpa on 1/10 at 12:30 pm.

  Soria and Muktu Lhakpa left C3 at 6 am. It was very windy and cold. They reached the true summit at 12:30 pm. They took a few pictures and spent about 10 minutes on the summit.

  They descended to C2, where they arrived at 6 pm. The next day they descended to BC.

  Oxygen:
    Not taken, not used

  Sherpas:
    Muktu Lhakpa, Tashigaon, Makalu, 21/08/1972, Everest X3, Manaslu in 2008, 
      K2 X1, Dhaulagiri I X1


expid: MANA10306
peakid: MANA
year: 2010
route1: NE Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Richard Bolt
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Manaslu Expedition 2010
countries: Belgium, Italy
approach: Arughat->Jagat->Samagaon
bcdate: 2010-09-09
smtdate: 2010-10-05
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2010-10-06
campsites: BC(09/09,4850m),C1(14/09,5650m),C2(23/09,6650m),C3(20/09,7400m),Smt(05/10)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  Richard Bolt, Lal Bahadur Tamang and Lama Kancha left C2 at 5:30 am. The weather was cold and windy. Lal Bahadur Tamang and Lama Kancha stopped at C3 [traditional C4 site] as it was too cold for them. They arrived there at 8:30 am and two Sherpas stayed at C3 and waited for Bolt to summit. Bolt carried on to the summit. He went all the way to the summit along the cornice. He spent about 5 minutes on the summit and he was completely on his own.

  Bolt descended first to C3, where the two Sherpas were waiting for him. He got there at about 2 pm and the three descended all the way to base camp at 7:30 pm. The next day they descended to Samagaon and Bolt took a helicopter back to Kathmandu.

  Spoden and Stoll reached 7600m, just above C3 on 30 Sept. Together with Bolt they were attempting the summit, but as they were climbing without oxygen it was too cold and they turned back. Bolt descended to BC that day and Spoden and Bolt stayed the night at C1.

  Thomas Bolt, Leuthold, Roth and Winistoerfer reached C2 (6650m) on 23 Sept. They spent the night there. Nobody of the group felt well at this altitude and abandoned expedition. Apart from Richard Bolt, everyone in the group is walking out via the Larkya La.

  Oxygen:
    Not taken, not used

  Hired:
    Lama Kancha, Chhulemu, Taksindu, 17/01/1974, Cho Oyu in 2004
    Lal Bahadur Tamang, 21/6/83 (7/3/2040), Ramche-6, Rasuwa, no 8000ers

  These two also worked with Steve Marolt's team which was on the same permit.


expid: MANA10307
peakid: MANA
year: 2010
route1: NE Face
nation: UK
leaders: Kenton Cool
sponsor: Dream Guides Manaslu Expedition
countries: Sweden
approach: Arughat->Samagaon
bcdate: 2010-09-08
smtdate: 2010-09-30
smttime: 1420
termdate: 2010-10-03
campsites: BC(08/09,4700m),C1(13/09,5500m),C2(21/09,6400m),C3(28/09,6800m),C4(29/09,7400m),Smt(30/09)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Smt: 30th September by Cool, Egglstone, Burr, Ostman, Dorje Gyalzen, 
       Lhakpa Wangchu, Lhakpa Sherpa at 2:20 pm.

  Summit team left C4 at 8:30 am on 30 Sept. It was very windy and cold. Cool and Eggleston were carrying their skies. The team reached the rock tower (which is about 10m below the cornice) at about 2:10 pm. Cool continued up the cornice on his own and fixed it partly with rope. The members stayed at the rock tower as the rope was not good enough to bring the whole team up. There was a Spaniard, Miguel, who acted very angry and Cool said that he sort of prevented his members to go all the way to the top. They all stayed at the summit (the rock tower is close enough to the summit to be recognized as summit) for about 30 minutes. Cool and Eggleston skied down to C4, where they arrived at 4 pm. The other members and the Sherpas walked down and arrived at about the same time. The next day everyone went back to BC.

  Goddard reached 7000m on 29 Sept, however, as he had twisted his back (recurring injury) in the morning, he was in too much pain to carry on. He returned to C2 the same day, where he spent the night.

  Wright reached C4 on 29 Sept. He stayed the night, but as it was very windy he could not sleep and decided to descend to C2 the next day and not go to the summit.

  On 1 Oct Eggleston and Cool skied from the end of the fixed rope to C3 and then all the way from C3 to C2, from where they carried the skies down to BC.

  Oxygen:
    All members and Sherpas from C4 to summit to C4.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Sherpa, Kerung-3, Solu, 1977, 1st 8000er
    Lhakpa Wangchu, Pangboche, Khumb, 23/10/1986, Everest X4 (summited again 
      with Casserley on 23/5/2010)
    Dorje Gyalzen, Pangboche, Khumbu, 16/07/1982, Everest X6, Manaslu in 2008,
      Cho Oyu 9/2009


expid: MANA10308
peakid: MANA
year: 2010
route1: NE Face
nation: USA
leaders: Cleo Weidlich
sponsor: Weidlich Manaslu Expedition
approach: Arughat->Jagat->Samagaon
bcdate: 2010-09-19
smtdate: 2010-10-01
smttime: 1058
termdate: 2010-10-04
campsites: BC(19/09,4700m),C1(24/09,5450m),C2(29/09,6400m),C4(30/09,7400m),Smt(01/10)
accidents: Tshering Phinjo got cerebral edema at C3
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Summit team left C4 at about 7 am. The weather was very windy and cold. They reached the true summit on the cornice at 10:58 am. They spent about 5 minutes on the true summit to take photos.

  On their descent they stopped at C3, where they arrived at about 1 pm. Tshering Phinjo was not feeling well and Wiedlich thinks that he had developed cerebral edema (he was hallucinating). They had a cup of tea at C3 and then carried on to C2, where they arrived at about 3 pm. They spent the night there, but Tshering Phinjo was not feeling better and kept on hallucinating and had a bad night. At 5 am on 2nd October it got too bad and they descended to BC where they arrived at 10 pm. Tshering Phinjo carried on to Samagaon the same day, whereas Weidlich and Ang Mingma stayed at BC.

  On 4th October, Weidlich slipped at BC and tore a ligament. She took a helicopter to Kathmandu on the same day.

  Oxygen:
    Weidlich used oxygen at C4 to sleep, but climbed without it
    Ang Mingma Sherpa used oxygen from C2 to the summit and back again
    Tshering Phinjo used oxygen from C2 to the summit to BC

  Sherpas:
    Ang Mingma Sherpa, Yilajung (near Thami), 21/02/68, Everest X9
    Tshering Phinjo, Khumjung, 1973, Everest in 2006 and 2010


expid: MANA10309
peakid: MANA
year: 2010
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Chizuko Kono
sponsor: Gamushara Manaslu Expedition
approach: Arughat->Soti Khola->Mechha Khola->Jagat->Gap->Lho->Samagaon
bcdate: 2010-09-10
smtdate: 2010-10-01
smttime: 1148
termdate: 2010-10-03
campsites: BC(10/09,4850m),C1(20/09,5750m),C2(28/09,6350m),C3(29/09,6750m),C4(30/09,7400m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Chomolungma Pilgrimage
routememo:
  Kono, Nima Gyalzen and Ngawang Rinji started from C4 at 7 am on 1 Oct. They reached summit at 11:48 am, stayed on summit for about 10 minutes, then descended to C4 at 1:48 pm. Continued to C2 where they arrived at 5:30 pm and slept there. On 2 Oct descended to BC. The summit day weather was windy and blue sky.

  Sherpas:
    Ngawang Rinji, 30/11/84 (15/8/2041), Beni-8, Solu
    Nima Gyalzen, 18/5/76 (5/2/2033), Beding, Everest X8, ManasluX2, Cho Oyu X1


expid: PUTH10301
peakid: PUTH
year: 2010
route1: NE Face
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Alexander Bijlsma
sponsor: Dutch Putha Hiunchuli Expedition
approach: Beni->Myagdi Khola->Phalagaon->Dhorpatan->Tarakot->Kakkot->S to BC
bcdate: 2010-10-09
smtdate: 2010-10-21
termdate: 2010-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to very strong wind blowing, frozen snow, very cold
campsites: BC(09/10,4900m),C1(11/10,5400m),C2(15/10,6000m),C3(20/10,6550m),xxx(21/10,7000m)
accidents: Nothing serious, just numb fingers
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  C1 on rocks at foot of snow slope (40 degrees)
  C2 at snow plateau
  C3 at snow face
  High at NE Face.

  Both members, Alexander Bijlsma and his wife, and their two "Sherpas," Pemba Tamang and Kumar Magar, moved up and down the mountain together (except that Magar descended to BC the day before the others).

  On 21 October the four climbers left C3 for the summit on 21 October at 3:30 am, when it was dark and cold, but not windy. They climbed to 7000m, where they arrived at about 7:00 am. Now they were in the middle of a windstorm, which was blowing particles of frozen snow that stung and that reduced visibility to only a few meters. Fierce gusts of wind made it hard to stand upright; Bijlsma and his wife had to use a stick in each hand to stand against the wind. They couldn't get their fingers warm; eight days after the storm, the fingers of the Dutch members were still numb from the cold.

  The team retreated from 7000m to C3, where they found that snow had been driven inside their inner tents. They went down to C2, where the wind the wind was still very strong, and on down to C2, where the wind was still strong, but there was no snow. The Dutch and Pemba stayed in C1 that night while Kumar continued to descend to BC. Everyone in BC the next day, the 22nd. Their climb was finished, and they left the mountain on the 24th.

  Hired:
    Kumar Magar, 28-29 years old, Kratrasingo, Solu (near Phaplu), no 8000ers
    Pemba Tamang, 31/5/73, Taksindu, no 8000ers


expid: SAMD10301
peakid: SAMD
year: 2010
route1: Gully on N Face
nation: France
leaders: Aymeric Clouet
sponsor: French Samdo Expedition
approach: Bhulbhule->Sange->Dharapani->Kharka->Bimtong->Ponkatal->BC->Larkya La
bcdate: 2010-09-25
smtdate: 2010-09-25
termdate: 2010-10-09
termnote: Abandoned at 3800m due to difficult rock (lack of snow)
campsites: BC(25/09,3800m),xxx
agency: Glacier Safari Treks
routememo:
  Clouet and Pretet went up to 5700m on Swelokhan area north of Samdo on 25 Sept and returned to Samdo on 1 Oct. The team did not try to climb Samdo as there was no snow to begin the climb. Starting point on Samdo was only rock and not possible to climb up. The team gave up the climb.

  Clouet leaving Kathmandu on 17 Oct. Pretet will go for Everest trek. She will return on 8 Nov and will leave on 10 Nov.


expid: TASH10301
peakid: TASH
year: 2010
route1: S Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kazuhiro Tagami
sponsor: Fukuoka JWAF Mt. Tashi Kang
ascent1: 6th
approach: Pokhara->Beni->Kalopani->Marpha->Alubari->Hidden Valley
bcdate: 2010-09-22
smtdate: 2010-09-26
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2010-09-27
campsites: BC(22/09,5300m),Smt(26/09)
accidents: Ishimaru high altitude sickness
agency: Bochi Bochi Treks
routememo:
  Ryuichi, Tagami, Santa Gurung, Sona Chhiri Sherpa and Ramesh Gurung started their summit bid on 26 Sept at 2 am and reached the top at 9 am. They stayed on summit for about 30 minutes and descended to BC at 12 noon. The summit day weather was very good.

  Mikurino remained in BC through out the expedition period. 

  Nagao climbed up to 5800m and turned around due to tiredness. 

  Ishimaru left BC on 25 Sept due to altitude sickness; she left Kathmandu on 9 Oct.

  Hired: 
    Santa Bahadur Gurung, 3/4/59, Chisapani, Sunwara-5, Gorkha, Manaslu X2, 
      Cho Oyu X1
    Ramesh Gurung, 29/6/88 (15/3/2045), Hatiya-7, Makalu
    Sona Chhiri, 26/8/89 (10/5/2046), Makalu-9


expid: TILI10301
peakid: TILI
year: 2010
route1: NE Spur-N Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Ang Pemba Sherpa
sponsor: Bespoken Tilicho Expedition
countries: Nepal, Switzerland
approach: Jomsom->Yak Kharka->Mesokanto Pass
bcdate: 2010-10-07
smtdate: 2010-10-10
termdate: 2010-10-11
termnote: Abandoned at 5600m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(07/10,4800m),xxx(10/10,5600m)
agency: Bespoken Himalaya Treks
routememo:
  The team put up a camp at 5100m on 8 Oct which is normal C1, as deposit camp. On 10 Oct all members and Sherpas climbed up to 5600m which is normal C2, then descended to BC. The team found snow condition was bad and not stable. So the team decided to give up the climb.

  Fixed rope: 800m C1->C2.


expid: MANA10311
peakid: MANA
year: 2010
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Carlos Pauner
sponsor: Spanish Manaslu Expedition
approach: Samagaon by helicopter
bcdate: 2010-09-09
smtdate: 2010-10-01
smttime: 1245
termdate: 2010-10-04
campsites: BC(09/09,4750m),C1(21/09,5570m),C2(25/09,6400m),C4(30/09,7400m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Summit team left C4 at 6 am, very windy. Arrived at summit at 12:45 pm, spent about half hour on real summit, then descended to BC where they arrived at 10:30 pm.

  Perez reached C2 on 25 Sept, stayed one night during acclimatization. On summit push he started off with Pauner, but turned back before C1 as he had an inflammation of his throat.

  Sherpa:
   Pasang Temba, 20/1/83, Tashigaon, Makalu-5, Sankhuwasabha, Everest

  Non-summiting members:

  Oiarzabal went up to C1 on 21 September and stayed there two nights, descended to BC on the 23rd, and left the expedition on the 24th because of a prior commitment in Argentina.

  Pauner and Perez, his cameraman, left immediately after Pauner had summited. Pauner had no time to stay longer and saw no reason to do so. Perez left with him.


  Arias - 4 November, 2010

  Arias and his client, Llantada, stayed on the mountain and made their own bid for the summit. They climbed up to C4 on 5 October and left C4 for the top at 8:00 am the next day. Llantada got to 7600m and then turned back to C4 because he was climbing too slowly.

  Arias carried on up alone. But on the the 4th, new snowfall had deposited deep fresh loose snow on the route, and wind had covered all tracks of previous climbers; indeed, it obliterated Arias's own tracks on the 6th immediately after he had plunged his feet into the snow. He made some effort to find a new route, but he became "very, very tired," and his tracks behind him quickly disappeared; he decided it was not possible to go higher alone. He stopped at 7800m at 11:00 am. He returned to C4 at 12:00 noon, rested briefly, and then he and Llantada descended all the way to BC, where they arrived at 8:30 pm. They left BC on the 8th.

  Arias stayed on in Nepal, flew back to Kathmandu from Lukla on 4 November, and stayed one night in Hotel.


expid: MANA10310
peakid: MANA
year: 2010
route1: NE Face
nation: Ecuador
leaders: Patricio Tisalema
sponsor: Project Everest Ecuadorian Manaslu Expedition
approach: Arughat->Mechha Khola->Philim->Gap->Samagaon
bcdate: 2010-10-12
smtdate: 2010-10-14
termdate: 2010-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to deep snow conditions and extreme danger of avalanches
campsites: BC(12/10,4700m),C1(13/10,5400m),xxx(14/10,7000m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  The team started its summit push on 19 Oct, reached C1. On 20 Oct towards C2. Due to waist-deep snow conditions, turned around from 7000m and all the way down to BC.


expid: PUTH10302
peakid: PUTH
year: 2010
route1: NE Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Wolfgang Kirschner
sponsor: AG Niederoesterich Putha Hiunchuli Expedition
approach: Jupal by air, Dunai->Tarakot->Barbung Khola->Kakkot->Yak Kharka
bcdate: 2010-10-01
smtdate: 2010-10-09
termdate: 2010-10-11
termnote: Abandoned at 7015m due to high altitude sickness
campsites: BC(01/10,4920m),C1(06/10,5450m),C2(08/10,6300m),xxx(09/10,7015m)
accidents: Some members suffered from high altitude sickness
agency: Makalu Adventure
routememo:
  Vincze and Dawa Nurbu left C2 at 5 am on 9 Oct for summit. When they reached 7015m at about 9 am Vince got headache, breathing problem and also very tired; then turned around with Dawa Nurbu to BC at 5 pm together with Ang Dawa who was in C2.

  Erb spent night at C1 on 6 Oct. He had severe headache in the night. Next day he went down to BC. 

  Gravogel spent night at C1 on 6 Oct; went up to 6200m on 7 Oct, back to C1 had headache in the night. Next day he went down to BC. 

  Hofmann spent the night at C1 on 6 Oct. He had no problem. He accompanied Erb down to BC. 

  Kirschner couple spent night at C1 on 6 Oct. On 7 Oct went up to 6000m. Both suffered from headache. Martina felt dizzy, same day went down to BC.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Dawa Sherpa, Makalu-5, summited Putha Hiunchuli in 2008, 
      Everest in 2009 (no smt) 
    Dawa Nurbu Sherpa, Makalu-5


expid: ANN110110
peakid: ANN1
year: 2010
route1: N Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Nobukazu Kuriki
sponsor: Kuriki Annapurna Expedition
approach: Helicopther to BC
bcdate: 2010-04-19
smtdate: 2010-05-23
termdate: 2010-05-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to cold
campsites: BC(19/04,4200m),C1(25/04,5000m),C2(26/04,5500m),C3(30/04,6500m),C4(22/05,7200m),xxx(23/05,7700m)
agency: Bochi Bochi Treks
routememo:
  Kukiki climbed up to 7700m on 23 May. It was very cold. The down jacket which Kuriki put on was of small size and it did not help to keep him warm enough. Then Kuriki descended to BC same day. 

  Hirose and Takahashi remained at BC through out the expedition. Ishii and Kadotani went up to C2 on 27 April and returned to C1 same day. The team returned to Kathmandu on 1 June and left Nepal on 4 June.


expid: LHOT10118
peakid: LHOT
year: 2010
route1: W Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Marco Confortola
sponsor: Lhotse 2010
approach: Phakding->Namche
bcdate: 2010-04-17
smtdate: 2010-05-15
termdate: 2010-05-18
termnote: Abandoned at 7791m due to cold feet
campsites: BC(17/04,5000m),C2(20/04,6450m),C4(14/05,7791m),xxx(15/05,7791m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Confortola and Pasang Lama started their summit push and spent the night of 14 May at C4. Confortola's feet started getting cold. All his toes were amputed due to frostbite while on K2 in 2008. On 15 May Confortola and Pasang descended to BC.


expid: AMAD10302
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Abel Alonso
sponsor: Spanish Ama Dablam International Expedition
approach: Jiri->Junbesi->Kharikhola->Namche->Dingboche
bcdate: 2010-10-16
smtdate: 2010-10-23
termdate: 2010-10-27
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to no fixed rope above C2
campsites: BC(16/10,4500m),C1(19/10,5600m),C2(23/10,5900m),xxx(23/10,5900m)
accidents: Munoz German suffered from high altitude sickness at Dingboche and left for Namche on 18 Oct
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Alonso and Temba spent night at C2 for acclimatization. No team fixed the rope above C2. There was lack of coordination among the expedition teams at BC for opening the route above C2. Due to uncertainty of fixing ropes above C2, Alonso gave up the expedition. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 29 Oct and will leave on 7 Nov.


expid: AMAD10303
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Spiros Soulis
sponsor: Fat Yak Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Norway
approach: Phakding->Namche->Debuche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2010-10-18
smtdate: 2010-10-31
termdate: 2010-11-02
termnote: Abandoned at 5950m due to snowstorm, no fixed ropes above
campsites: BC(18/10,4600m),ABC(20/10,5340m),C1(23/10,5736m),xxx(31/10,5950m)
agency: Adventure (Monterosa Treks pmt)
routememo:
  High point at 5950m below C2.

  Landorf and Soulis left BC on 25 Oct, returned to Kathmandu on 31 Oct and will leave on 3 Nov. Grimsaeth and Mackay returned to Kathmandu on 5 Nov. Grimsaeth will leave on 7 Nov, Mackay will leave on 9 Nov. 

  Grimsaeth, Mackay and Lhakpa Bhote on their summit bid spent the night of 31 Oct at C1. On 1 Nov a snowstorm started. Then the team descended to BC on 1 Nov. 

  High point for Landorf, Lim and Soulis was 5750m.

  Fixed rope: 200m contributed

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Bhote, Hatiya-3, Sankhuwasabha, 5/11/70


expid: BARU10301
peakid: BARU
year: 2010
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Marco Crameri
sponsor: Swiss Baruntse Expedition
approach: Lukla east to BC
bcdate: 2010-10-16
smtdate: 2010-10-20
termdate: 2010-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6780m due to deep snow and Chuwang Nima's fatal fall
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak and Island Peak
campsites: BC(16/10,5500m),C1(19/10,6100m),xxx(20/10,6780m)
agency: Mera & Island Peak
routememo:
  BC by lake
  C1 just over east side of West Col.

  Deragisch stayed in BC throughout the climbing period because of altitude problems. That left two members, the Crameri brothers, and their two Sherpas to make the climb. They didn't stay long.

  The two members and the two Sherpas, Dendi and Pemba Norbu, on 20 October went up from C1 to the site for C2 at 6400m. Marco Crameri and Dendi turned around and went back to C1 because they found the snow too deep to continue without any fixed ropes in place above C2: no one had made the route. Arnold Crameri and Pemba Norbu continued up to have a look and then they too returned to C1. What they had seen was not encouraging.

  Back in BC, they discussed what to do next. Pemba Norbu recommended waiting for the next team's Sherpas to arrive and all Sherpas then to fix rope together. But the next team to turn up was Ms Melissa Arnot, American, and when her only Sherpa, Chhuwang Nima, had a fatal fall on 23 October, the Swiss left the mountain.

  They wanted to continue climbing, so they went to Island Peak. (The Crameris and both Sherpas had already scaled Mera Peak on 13 October enroute to Baruntse BC, Deragisch had stopped 50m below the summit because there were too many other climbers in the queue). The Crameri brothers and both Sherpas summited Island Peak on 27 October.

  Sherpas:
    Dendi, 22/1/83, Deku, Taksindu, Solu, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X1
    Pemba Norbu, 6/12/78, Ghunsa, Lelep-9, Taplejung, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X2


expid: AMAD10304
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Dean Staples
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Australia, Austria, Denmark, Finland, UK, USA
bcdate: 2010-10-22
smtdate: 2010-11-04
smttime: 1015
termdate: 2010-11-07
campsites: BC(22/10,4529m),ABC(28/10,5415m),C1(31/10,5880m),C2(02/11,6064m),C2.7(03/11,6277m),Smt(04-05/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  C2.7 at mushroom ridge.

  The first summit party of Bradey, Thellersen and Sange Dorje left C2.7 at 6:00 am on 4 November, reached the summit at 10:15 am and went down to C2 at 4:00 pm. They returned to BC on the 5th.

  The final summit party left C2.7 at 6:30 am on the 5th, arrived at the top at 1:00 pm, returned to C2.7 at 4:00 pm and were in BC the next day. They were Bauer, Lines, Rogers, Lhakpa Dorje, Pasang Bhote and Sonam Tshering.

  One member left the expedition early: Hochmeister developed pulmonary edema and was evacuated by helicopter on 29 October.

  The other non-summiting members remained until the climb was over:

  Clotworthy went only as high as ABC on 28 October. She was not strong enough to do more climbing after a long trek she had taken before joining the team.

  Halliday was not well with miscellaneous ailments, got to C1 on 2 November and gave up the climb.

  Hollen also reached C1 on the 2nd, had no energy left and quit. 

  Miller got a mild case of altitude sickness when he got to C2 on the 2nd and recuperated at BC.

  Nykanen was unwell when he arrived at C1 on the 2nd and turned back.

  Staples, the leader, went down with the members who stopped climbing after he reached C1 on the 2nd.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Dorje, 16/11/61, Sanam, Gudel, Solu, Cho Oyu X3, Everest X5, Kangch X1,
      Lhotse X1, Makalu X3
    Pasang Bhote, 30/11/73, Chepuwa, Makalu-Barun, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X4
    Sange Dorje, 14/4/78, Khumjung, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X5
    Sonam Tshering, 1/10/86, Khunde, Everest X2


expid: ANNS10301
peakid: ANNS
year: 2010
route1: E Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Stephane Benoist
sponsor: Annapurna 2010 to Annapurna South and Annapurna I
ascent1: 13th
bcdate: 2010-09-24
smtdate: 2010-10-08
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2010-10-26
othersmts: Attempted Annapurna I (ANN1-103-01)
campsites: BC(24/09,4350m),Smt(08/10)
agency: Glacier Safari Treks
routememo:
  BC at South Annapurna Glacier.

  The two Frenchmen, Stefane Benoist and Yannick Graziani, climbed their mountains with no Sherpas and no fixed camps above BC, no fixed ropes, no bottled oxygen. From the same BC for both mountains, they first summited Annapurna South, but they acclimatized on the Bonington route Annapurna I's South Face to 6100m on 28 September.

  With all their gears on their backs, they left BC on 1 October and moved higher up the South Annapurna Glacier to 5500m. On the 3rd, they climbed to the ridge running east from Annapurna South to Hiunchuli and bivouacked there 6060m. They moved along the ridge, bivouacked on the ridge for two nights, the 4th and 5th, at 6500m. On the 6th they moved higher on the ridge to bivouac at 6800m.

  On 7 October, they left their last bivouac at 8:00 am in good weather, summited Annapurna South at 11:00 am and descended to 5500m, where they had bivouacked on the 1st. They returned to BC on the 8th.

  Next they turned their attention to Annapurna I. But the weather had changed and it started to snow. They finally left BC on 20 October and bivouacked that night at 5100m at the bottom of glacier below the South Face.

  They made their next bivouac on the 22nd at 6000m on the face. On the 23rd they moved up the face and bivouacked at 6300m near the Japanese route. The next day they made a bivouac at 6700m and on 25 October they reached their high point of 6850m and bivouacked there.

  Snow kept falling, snow conditions were not good, they were processing too slowly, the route was growing more difficult technically and it would be hard to find a site for their next bivouac. They abandoned the climb and went down to bivouac at 5100m. From there on the next day they left the area and trekked to Sinuwa village on the Modi Khola and down river on their way back to Kathmandu, where they arrived very early on the 28th in time for their flights out.


expid: ANN410301
peakid: ANN4
year: 2010
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Wolfgang Seeliger
sponsor: German-Russian IV Autumn Expedition
countries: Russia
approach: Bhulbhule->Hongde->Yak Kharka
bcdate: 2010-10-12
smtdate: 2010-10-20
termdate: 2010-10-27
termnote: Abandoned at 5500m due to high wind and risk of avalanche
campsites: BC(12/10,4800m),xxx(20/10,5500m)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  On 14 Oct team started opening route and fixing ropes from BC to 100m below C1. The first leg from BC to C1 was mixed technical climbing and there was vertical rock face about 30-40 meters. Then the team descended to BC. On 20 Oct the team went up to 5500m close to C1. There was a very narrow ridge to pass before reaching C1. Both sides of the ridge were steep and with snow on top of the narrow ridge it was dangerous to cross it. There was danger of breaking the snow on the ridge if someone stepped on it. Then the team decided to return to BC. On 21 and 22 Oct snowstorm started. On 23 and 24 Oct there were avalanches. There was not enough time to wait for weather to improve. Then the team decided to abandon the expedition.

  Fixed rope: BC to C1.

  BC GPS reading: N28 degrees.35'.05,1" E.084,04 degrees - 50.9"


expid: BARU10302
peakid: BARU
year: 2010
route1: SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Melissa Arnot
sponsor: Independent on Baruntse
bcdate: 2010-10-20
smtdate: 2010-10-23
termdate: 2010-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to Sherpa's death
campsites: BC(20/10,5400m),C2(20/10,5500m),Mbr.xxx(22/10,6500m),Sherpa.xxx(23/10,7000m)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  C2 below of SE Ridge.

  In a rapid ascent of Baruntse, Arnot and her highly experienced Sherpa, Chhewang Nima, skipped C1 and went directly to C2 from BC on 22 October, two days after arriving at BC. On the 23rd, Arnot rested in C2 while Chhewang Nima and a Sherpa with an Iranian expedition, Nima Gyalzen, decided to break trail above and left C2 at 10:30 am. At 2:00 pm, she saw them very near the so-called first summit at about 7000m. At 4:30 that afternoon, another team's Sherpa told her that he saw Chhewang and Nima Gyalzen coming down, and she should make tea for him.

  She brewed up some tea, and half an hour later Nima Gyalzen appeared, crying and screaming that there had been an avalanche and "Chhewang finished!" Melissa and a Sherpa with the Iranians tried to go up to the scene of the tragedy, but it was getting dark and quite windy; they climbed up about ten meters in 15 minutes, then retreated to C2.

  Nima Gyalzen turned up at 5:00 pm. He was using oxygen; in his hysterical condition, the supplementary oxygen helped him to be able to catch his breath and to walk. Nima Gyalzen told her with difficulty that just above 7000m, there was a crevasse with a cornice on its northwest side. Chhewang was on top of the cornice, hammering in a picket, when the ice beneath him collapsed onto the East Face of steep fluted snow and then rock. The cornice carried him downwards and a snow avalanche came down on top of him and buried him. Nima Gyalzen had been roped to Chhewang, but he said the ice sliced the rope in two and saved his life. He thought the incident had happened at 3:30-4:00 pm.

  At 7:10 pm, Arnot and Nima Gyalzen headed to down to BC, where they arrived at about 10:00 pm. The next morning a helicopter arrived at BC to make search for Chhewang, but there was a strong wind on the east side and a search was not possible. So she and Nima Gyalzen flew to Chhewang Nima's village, Tesho, near Thami in Khumbu and landed in a potato field close to his family's home to inform them of what had happened. The family was so angry with Arnot for taking him to Baruntse that she retreated to the nearby home of a cook, Ang Tshering, who had been with her on earlier expeditions.

  On the following morning, the 25th, Arnot and Nima Gyalzen trekked to Namche Bazar, where a helicopter picked them up and flew them to Kharikhola in Solu where Chhewang's brother Ngima Nuru lived. The helicopter, co-piloted by Simone Moro, a well-known Italian mountaineer who knows the region, carried them to a hilltop near Baruntse. After a 45-minute search, the two Nimas reported that there had been three huge avalanches on the northeast side of the mountain and there was no chance to find Chhewang Nima's body.

  The helicopter dropped Nima Gyalzen at Lukla to see the family, and it carried Arnot and Ngima Nuru to Namche, where they met Nepalese govenment officials for extensive interviews.

  24 October was the day when Arnot and Chhewang had planned to summit Baruntse from C2 and return to BC the same day.

  Sherpa:
    Chhewang Nima (Chuwang Nima), 20/8/67, Tesho, Namche-4, Khumbu, Cho Oyu X2,
      Everest X18


expid: CHAM10301
peakid: CHAM
year: 2010
route1: E Hungu headwall-Chamlang Glacier
nation: Australia
leaders: Theodore Kossart
sponsor: Australian Chamlang Traverse
bcdate: 2010-10-13
smtdate: 2010-10-26
termdate: 2010-10-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6230m due to unconsolidated chest-deep snow, strong wind
othersmts: Climbed Mera South Smt by Stuart Morris on 3 Oct
campsites: BC(13/10,5320m),ABC(16/10,5640m),C1(25/10,5850m),xxx(26/10,6230m)
agency: Nepal Sanctuary Treks
routememo:
  Approach: Puiyam, Pangkongma, Nashing, Digma, Chulan Kharka, Chumbu Kharka, Kotte, Tagnag, Khare, Kogma Dingma, Low camp, Depot Camp above Amphu Camp

  Kossart and Morris started their [east to west] summit traverse bid on 26 Oct from C1 (5850m) at 9:30 am climbing the headwall about 500m high; as their climbing progressed the steepness on the wall was between 70-80 degrees and the snow condition was not good. It was chest-deep and unconsolidated. The wind was very strong. They reached the high point of 6230m at 4:30 pm, then decided to turn around to C1 where they arrived between 6:30-7 pm. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 5 Nov and will leave on 9 Nov.

  Fixed rope: 200m between C1 to high point.


expid: CHOY09360
peakid: CHOY
year: 2009
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Walter Lang
bcdate: 2009-09-10
smtdate: 2009-09-28
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2009-09-30
campsites: BC(10/09,5000m),ABC(15/09,5550m),C1(18/09,6400m),C2(23/09,7000m),Smt(28/09)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  The summit team started from C2 on 27 Sept at 10:36 pm. The weather was calm and the conditions were good. The new snow that had fallen a couple of days before had settled and was firm. The team decided to climb from C2 as Lang felt fit enough to do it and he did not want to spend one night at 7400m. When they got to the summit they saw Everest. They spent about half an hour on the summit and descended to C1, where they arrived at 4:15 pm. They had stopped at C2 at about 11 am to dismantle the camp and carried on to C1. They descended to ABC on 29 Sept and left ABC on 30 Sept. 

  They arrived in Kathmandu on 1 Oct (they left Chinese BC on 30 Sept) and as there was some time left, Lang went trekking in the Annapurnas before he returned to Germany on 14 Oct.

  Sherpa:
    Phurba Namgyal Sherpa from Beding, 7/2/86, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2, Ama Dablam


expid: MANA10111
peakid: MANA
year: 2010
route1: NE Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Hong-Bin
sponsor: 2010 Manaslu Annapurna Expedition
approach: Arughat->Jagat->Deng->Lec->Samagaon
bcdate: 2010-04-03
smtdate: 2010-04-23
termnote: Abandoned at 8050 due to bad weather
campsites: BC(03/04,4800m),C1(10/04,5200m),C2(15/04,6400m),C3(22/04,7000m),xxx(23/04,8050m)
accidents: Frostbite Kim's nose, ears left toes
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal
routememo:
  Kim Hong-Bin, Karma Gyalzen and Nima Chhedar started from their summit push from C3 at 10 pm on 22 April. At the beginning the weather was clear but cold and a little windy. Same time the members of Korea Expressway Corporation expedition, Kang, Kim Joo-Hung, Kim Mi-Gon, Park, Yun, Sanu and Chinjung, started from C3 as well. When I met Kim on 29 April at his hotel he was exhausted. Kim said that he and his two Sherpas got to the summit on 23 April in complete white-out. He did not check his watch so he does not know the summit time. Karma Gyalzen joined us a little later during the interview. He too said that they got to the summit. They stayed on the summit about 10-15 minutes and descended. Kim had to biv at around 8000m due to the bad weather with other Korean climbers. On 24 April Kim again had to biv alone above C3 at around 7200m-7300m due to bad weather. He realized he had frostbite in the night around 11-12 pm. On 25 April Kim reached C2 to Samagaon then to Kathmandu by Helicopter. He had treatment at Norvic.

  Sherpas:
    Karma Gyalzen Sherpa, 21/10/2032, Bung-9
      (got frostbite in one finger)
    Nima Chhedar Lama, 15/10/2035, Chepuwa-1
      (got frostbite in all fingers of right hand)


  No summit:

  I met Kim Mi-Gon, climbing leader of the Korea Expressway Corporation expedition (KECE) on 2 June 2010 in Kathmandu. During our meeting Kim told me that none of his team members and Sherpas got to the summit. While asking about the summit claim of Kim Hong-Bin, he did like to comment on it. Meanwhile, I had a few email exchanges to know the high points of the members with other member of the KECE, Kang Yeon-Ryong. He wrote in his email on 1 Oct that Kim Mi-Gon's high point was 8050m. Meanwhile, Kim Hong-Bin in his email reply to my email on 7 Oct wrote that he was with Kim Mi-Gon (Kon). That indicates that Kim Hong-Bin's high point was 8050m as with Kim Mi-Gon.

  Fixed rope: 50m contributed.


  Kim Hing-Bin - 25 Nov 2010 (email)

  "I agree with Kim Mi-Gon's insist and the message that Kim Mi-Gon sent you is right." (Thus no summit, high point for all "summiters" was 8050m).


expid: AMAD09351
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Dean Perez
bcdate: 2009-10-19
smtdate: 2009-10-26
smttime: 0945
termdate: 2009-10-28
campsites: BC(19/10,4650m),C1(21/10,5690m),C2(25/10,5950m),Smt(26/10)
agency: Mongolian Treks & Expeditions (Himalayan Guides pmt)
routememo:
  Dean Perez - 8-9 Dec 2010 (by email)

  I used Mongolian Treks & Expeditions as my outfitter. I was climbing alone, but the agency put me in a group to split the cost of the climb. The others were:

    Lydia Bradey (team leader), New Zealand
    David Gywnne-Jones (Lydia’s client), New Zealand
    Eric Haselsteiner, Germany

  Campsites:
    Oct 19 - Arrival date
    Oct 19-20 – Base Camp
    Oct 21 – C1
    Oct 22-23 – back to Base Camp
    Oct 24 – C1
    Oct 25 – C2
    Oct 26 – Summit, back to C1
    Oct 27 – Base Camp
    Oct 28 - Departure date

  We climbed the SW Ridge. I was one of the lucky summiters on that month. No one would be able to ascent from C3 to the summit due to a bad snow condition. A British team lead by Scottish climber with the help of 3 Sherpas fixed a rope and made to the summit on October 25th, then the following day (October 26th), my Sherpa and I pushed for the summit from C2 and summited around 10 am. I did not have enough time to climb with the group, so I decided to climb alone; the rest of the group summited on the 28th. I was climbing with Melissa Arnot (First Ascent athlete from the USA) and her client that day.

  I was behind 45 mins [at the summit]. They were off from C2 for the summit at around 4:00 am and we followed them 30 mins after they departed.

  Nuru Wangchu and I descended to C1 from the summit, where we met Eric and the rest of the group. The next day I went back to base camp, while Nuru stayed with Eric. Lydia and Eric's plan was to sleep in C3. I believe Nuru went back to C2 and did not sleep in C3.

  Lydia has been in the base camp for about a week when I arrived. Eric has been climbing around Khumbu region that month. He had summited Island Peak. I believe we both arrived at the base camp on the same day.


expid: ANN110111
peakid: ANN1
year: 2010
route1: N Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Mingma Sherpa
sponsor: Independent on Annapurna I
ascent1: 51st w/Spanish
bcdate: 2010-03-15
smtdate: 2010-04-17
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2010-04-21
othersmts: Climbed Dhaulagiri I (DHA1-101-05)
campsites: BC(15/03,4200m),C1(17/03,5000m),C2(20/03,5600m),C3(29/03,6400m),C4(16/04,7100m),Smt(17/04)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Mingma Sherpa was on a Thamserku Annapurna I climbing permit, but he was not a member of any other team. He was an independent climber who went to the top on 17 April imbedded amongst Edurne Pasaban's summit party's members and Sherpas and close to Joao Garcia. Then he helicoptered to Dhaulagiri I to join the Chinese.


expid: CHOY10117
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: Lithuania
leaders: Saulius Vilius
countries: Estonia
bcdate: 2010-04-20
smtdate: 2010-05-22
smttime: 1045
termdate: 2010-05-24
campsites: BC(20/04,5700m),C1(22/04,6400m),C2(26/04,7100m),Smt(22/05)
accidents: Sikk suffered stroke at 7000m (below C2)
agency: Ang Rita Treks
routememo:
  Three members summited on May 22, c13:00-13:20 Chinese Time (c10:45-11:05 NST), no more than 5-10 minutes apart, in summiting order: Tanel Tuuleveski, Allan Valge, Saulius Vilius.

  All four other members reached C2 in acclimatization climb. Tolpezninkaite and Kaasik found this spring's conditions too icy and technical and therefore too dangerous for them. Kala volunteered to help Sikk back to Kathmandu and home.

  All members were equal, financially and otherwise, but since Vilius had more experience on 8000ers, than the rest of the group put together, it was only logical that he took the leader position.

  No Sherpa or Tibetan climbing assistants. Following the evacuation of one member from the route and departing of two others, we used 4 or 5 Tibetan porters hauling baggage back from C1 to ABC.

  Used the usual C1 (6400m) and C2 (7100m). C1 established April 22, C2 established April 26. After two aborted summit pushes on May 3-5 and 9-15, the successful summit push followed:

    May 19 ABC -> C1
    May 21 C1 -> C2 
    May 22 C2 -> Smt -> C2 
    May 23 C2 -> ABC

  We didn't use the usual C3. Also no supplemental oxygen was used.

  ABC arrival was April 20, departure on May 24.

  Alar Sikk was evacuated from the altitude of c7000m (13-14 May), with suspected HACE, later diagnosed as stroke in Kathmandu.

  For permits and base camp support we used Ang Rita Treks & Expeditions.
  Camp manager and cook was Gyalzen Sherpa.


expid: RIPI55101
peakid: RIPI
year: 1955
route1: N Face
nation: UK
leaders: Alfred Gregory
sponsor: Merseyside Himalayan Expedition 1955
ascent1: 2nd
approach: From Tibetan side
smtdate: 1955-05-18
campsites: Smt(18/05)
primid: RAMD55101
othersmts:
  Climbed Panaio Toupa (PANT-551-01), Parchamo (PARC-551-01), Pimu (PIMU-551-01), Ramdung (RAMD-551-01), Chekigo (CHEK-551-01), Dingjung Ri (DING-551-01), Dapladadangdio and Singkar; attempted Pangbuk Ri (PANG-551-01); recon Gaurishankar (GAUR-551-01)

routememo:
  Upon reviewing map provided by Dennis P. Davis, it appears that the 1952 Shipton expedition and this expedition on May 18 climbed an unnamed peak of 6705m south of Menlung La, not the true Pangbuk Ri which is much further north of Menlung La and Kangkuru (6320m).

  4 days earlier on May 14, Boultbee and Davis climbed to the lower West Summit of the true Pangbuk Ri via the SW Ridge approaching from the Tibetan side.


  Letter to Salisbury from Dennis Davis - March 5, 2004

  To answer your questions. I am amazed that the Japanese, Schneider and Finnish maps with all their latest technology cannot agree of heights, names and locations of peaks. It makes my map almost the most accurate. The Schneider map has been used by the Nepalese without reference to other maps. Under Menlungtse is a long glacier, always known as the Menlung Glacier, very logically, not the "Drogpa Nagtsang." This leads to the Menlung La crossed by Shipton and party in 1952. They ought to know where it is, and that Pangbuk was south of that on the Tibetan/Nepalese border. I do not believe the Pangbuk Ri north of Kangkuru, which you say is added to the Nepal government's list of peaks open for mountaineering, when it has not yet been climbed!! I think that would be dangerous to say the least, and remember we climbed it from inside Tibet.

  The reason we named Kangkuru was that we had to jump an enormous crevass which would have stopped us reaching us reaching the summit had we not done so. Kang is used on many names of peaks, also Kuru is used as in Dhankuru. It seemed apt to us to name the peak after such a big jump after the Australian Kangeroo, hence Kangkuru! Silly, but true.

  There seems to be some collusion between your three maps makers as in some cases the heights are identical particularly on Schneider & Japanese maps. I just do not believe these heights were arrived at independently. 

  It would be very interesting to see the complete maps of the area to compare other details. 

  I enclose a copy of our climb on the 14th May taken from my diary. I sometimes wish I had taken the trouble to attempt a book of my visits to Nepal. A bit late now! 


  May 14th (taken from Dennis Davis diary of 1955)

  An unusually early start 6:55 am, before even the sun was up, saw us plodding crampon-shod up the snow slopes and winding our way through a maze of crevasses and seracs. At one stage we had to descend onto a doubtful snow bridge and cut our way up the other side on a quite vertical section. After this we made quite good time still hoping to cross over on the snow face before the summit. Alas after arriving at a snow shoulder our way was barred by a nearly vertical rock and ice face several hundred feet wide. We did not despair and hoped the ridge ahead of us would go. It went until we [were] at the summit of a snow peak on the ridge beyond. It started as a thin blade of frozen snow almost vertical on both sides, and continued horizontally over rock pinnacles and ice seracs. The rocks then stopped and we made many difficult traverses to avoid towers of rocks necessitating treading on very loose ground and sometimes extremely steep ice. After being thwarted by one traverese, I made up to the ridge and was then faced with a 30-foot section of rock which overhung slightly at the top, but had a weakness which might go. To avoid removing crampons, this was climbed with difficulty, but there was still more to come and after several more snow ridges and avoiding cornices, we came to more rock. This time crampons came off and at the next to final tower we were forced to traverse out again on the right. This was out of the sun and took us aross very steep ground indeed, finishing with a vertical chimney to get back onto the ridge again. Another 30 feet took us to the final tower. Dismayed and disappointed, I turned to Peter and said "We've had it." It towered some 200 feet above us, parts of which could be climbed I'm sure, but we had no pitons and would have taken at least 2 hours, and it was already 3:30 pm. (We had taken 4-1/2 hours to traverse the 400-foot long horizontal ridge and climb a mere 400 feet higher than the snow peak at the end of the ridge.) We returned forlornly, all our gains were now losses as we had to climb down all the difficulties we had recently won. Forunately it was perhaps the finest day of the expedition, little wind, and we descended to yet another glorious sunset, only wishing the hills & mountains we could see in Tibet were ascessible to us. The two Sherpas had come out from the tents to look for us, but we soon reassured them. The last rays of the sun struck higher peaks with an orange tinge and we retired into our tents at 7:30 pm. Just 12-1/2 hours since we left them.


expid: RIPI05101
peakid: RIPI
year: 2005
route1: W Ridge from S
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Bruce Normand
sponsor: AACZ Rolwaling Expedition 2005
ascent1: 3rd
countries: Italy, Spain, UK, USA
approach: Rolwaling Valley->Beding
bcdate: 2005-04-24
smtdate: 2005-05-07
smttime: 1612
termdate: 2005-05-12
othersmts: Climbed Chekigo (CHEK-051-01) and Drangnag Ri (DRAN-051-01)
campsites: BC(24/04,4800m),Smt(07/05)
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC  at Drangnak on west side of Glacier
  ABC Ripimo Shar Glacier, under West Face of Drangnag Ri
  C1  at snowcave.

  After establishing ABC spent a week acclimatizing; Normand and Hartmann climbed point 5965m northwest of ABC and mountain on 1 May and on 3 May all other members climbed it. Normand and Von Rotz to top of point 6705m (Ripimo Shar) on Schneider map on 7th May; very cloudy this afternoon.

  Normand and Hartmann on 8 May to Drangnag Ri. On 9th Vidono and Scarsi left BC to go trekking as planned. On 9th Normand and Hartmann climbed Drangnag Ri's West Face to SW Ridge; at junction of face and ridge put C1 in snowcave after climbing snowfield 50-degree steep and 55-degree ice average some up 80-85 degrees with 14 pitches total up ice. Route had to be abseiled at night or very early in morning so as not to be hit by falling ice and rocks. Hartmann tired so stayed in C1 on 10th while Normand climbed SW Ridge to top, first part badly corniced (too vertical on section) and last 100 vertical meters had snow to top. Left C1 at 11:00 am (had gone to sleep 5:00 am that day) and got to top at 4:12 pm and back to C1 7:00 pm. Clouds came and went. 11th 2:00 pm down to ABC in 10 hours and BC at 6:30 pm. 

  On return to KTM, Von Rotz and Normand on 15 May summited Chekigo, a trekking peak.


