# exped

expid: CHOY93401
peakid: CHOY
year: 1993
route1: W Ridge-W Face from S
nation: Spain
leaders: Jean-Luc Beausire, Juan-Carlos Piedra
sponsor: Cho Oyu Friendship Expedition
ascent1: 139
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 1994-01-08
smtdate: 1994-01-26
smttime: 1100
termdate: 1994-01-30
agency: Kunga
campsites:
  BC(08/01,5600m),Biv1(01,19-20/01,5800m),Biv2(21/01,6400m),Biv3(22/01,6750m),Biv4(23/01,7000m),Biv5(24/01,7400m),Biv6(25/01,7900m),Smt(26/01)

routememo:
  BC   on glacier start of ice and end of moraine, one hour from Nangpa La high point
  Biv3 at top of seracs
  Biv4 at middle of steep snow slope
  Biv6 below final snow slope.

  2 Swiss had good technical ability, good ice climbers in Alps but never before climbed in Himalaya, were preparing for K2 climb in 1995 which Magrina was to join. Expedition for Cho Oyu put together by 2 Swiss, who advertised in Spanish magazine & 2 responded while trekking agent told Magrima & his friend about expedition; four Spaniards actually met only on plane from Karachi to Kathmandu. 

  Was very cold: -24C at 10 pm at BC (outside tent) on arrival there. Made no fixed camps to climb as there independent parties, but Tell decided mountain not for him after having climbed across Nangpa La to bottom of mountain, where all members camped 12 Jan at 5800m; stayed there 2 days in very bad weather & 2 tents broken by 200km/hr winds, all decided to return to BC & Tell to Ktm. 2 Swiss left BC on 19th to go up again after breakfast as weather cleared in mid-morning; snow had stopped during the previous night. At BC about 40 cm had fallen; wind had blown a lot of snow about, so difficult to say how much exactly fallen. 3 Spaniards left BC on 20th (had no walkie-talkies on this expedition). Spaniards slept on 20th at same spot had biv on 12 Jan (found there a bag of food left by Swiss). 21st Spaniards biv on ridge at 6400m at 10 pm after having trouble to find route this day saw Swiss on ridge below seracs & biv below seracs. On 22nd Spaniards left 6400m biv & climbed the ridge & seracs; Swiss climbing seracs when Spanish were on ridge. Spanish left just above serac this was last time Swiss were seen. On 23 had late start because of cold & now route is easy; 4 pm reached 7000m & pitched tent next to Swiss tent, where found sleeping bag, stove, food, etc but no one; presumably Swiss had gone for top that day, but why not taken sleeping bag or other biv equipment in winter time? 24th Spaniards followed Swiss footsteps in snow & reached 7400-7500m at 4 pm under rock. 25th again Spanish followed footsteps which were not always visible on ice; as Spaniards climbed, saw something red, which first thought was flag, but as it grew bigger, realized was a Swiss but to right of normal route in a dangerous place on rock & ice; Swiss appeared from 250m away lying with one arm outstreched. On 25th climbed rock & a small couloir; at 7600m Cucurull decided to turn back & spend night in Swiss tent at 7000m; Spanish had left their tent at 7400m & were climbing with sleeping bags but no other equipment. 2 other Spaniards Magrina & Garra, went to 7900m, where sat on top of rock in sleeping bags & got little sleep & Garras fingers became frostbitten. On 26th Magrina & Garra reached highest summit; before first summit, Swiss footsteps last seen but no indication whether they fell here, went to 1st or 2nd summit. Garra & Magrina at 2nd, highest summit at 11 am after 4 hrs climb. Garra & Magrina slept 26th night at 7000m in Swiss tent (Cucurull had gone to BC) because Magrina had fallen with their own tent and it was ruined. 27th slept at 6400m without tent & reached BC 29th 2:00 am. 

  2 Swiss perhaps died of fall, perhaps exhaustion, definitely not avalanche.

accidents:
  Garra frostbitten fingers (black but will not loose tips); Magrima swollen & painful ankle from 20m fall; all toes frostnipped of summiters & Cucurull


expid: AMAD93401
peakid: AMAD
year: 1993
route1: SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Yoon Kwang
sponsor: 1993 Dong Eui Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 140
bcdate: 1993-11-18
smtdate: 1993-12-01
termdate: 1993-12-04
campsites: BC(18/11,4500m),ABC(21/11,5200m),C1(23/11,5800m),C2(27/11,6200m),C3(29/11,6500m),Smt(01/12)
accidents: None
agency: Universal Trekking Network
routememo:
  Padma KC, Ministry of Tourism - 2 Jan 1994

  Ministry now waiting for Korean Ama Dablam for explanation of climb during Nov. LO is being punished by not permitting him to be LO again. Punishment for team a problem; sirdar did not stop them.


expid: AMAD94102
peakid: AMAD
year: 1994
route1: SE Face-ESE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Vladimir Bachkirov
sponsor: Russian Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 144
bcdate: 1994-04-10
smtdate: 1994-04-28
accidents: None
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(10/04,5300m),Biv1(21/04,5900m),Biv2(22/04,6100m),Biv3(23/04,6200m),Biv4(24/04,6400m),Biv5(25/04,6500m),Biv6(26/04,6700m),Smt(04/28)

routememo:
  No fixed camps. First went to see mountain and acclimatize to 6000m on south side for 6 days. Then to Pangboche for rest and returned to BC 20 April to start climb, which began 21 April (with all 4 members climbing together). Bivs close together because very steep route and possible to climb for only 3-4 hours in morning before clouds and falling snow made visibility only 20 meters and necessary to see where to go. To Biv3 55 degrees, above average 50 degrees but sometimes vertical, some places horizontal. Many rock towers; mixed snow and rock. Spent 1 hr on top, saw from Kangchenjunga in east to maybe Annapurna in west. 200m down from top, could see nothing; descended to 6400m and 29th glacier, exhausted; had spent 2 nights at 6th biv because on 27th could not see way above. Had little food left on descent; had only 4 ropes which used only for belaying; climbed in "pure alpine-style." Route rather difficult especially where were unstable seracs or very hard ice, but main problem was weather. Many avalanches: only small ones on this route ("we chose route correctly") but 100m to right big ones.


expid: CHOY94103
peakid: CHOY
year: 1994
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: Argentina
leaders: Orlando Aedo
sponsor: Spanish-Argentine Team to Cho Oyu
countries: Spain
bcdate: 1994-04-14
smtdate: 1994-05-09
termdate: 1994-05-17
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due wind damage to tents and lack of time for further attempts
campsites: BC(14/04),ABC(17/04,5560m),C1(24/04,6100m),C2(01/05,6600m),C3(09/05,7400m),xxx(09,15/05,7400m)
accidents: Casabona altitude sickness & left ABC 16th May
agency: Saathi Nepal
routememo:
  BC at road
  C3 just below rock ridge (100m below Loretan's C3).

  Night of 9th May wind tore tent at C3; had intended to go to top on 10th but instead Rodriquez & Justicia went down to C2 and on to BC. 

  Next attempt by one Argentinian and arrived C3 on 15 May; Vidal & Sorhochar had been with him to C2. 16th May down from C3 because Aedo getting frostbite in fingers & toes (not serious). Yaks arranged for 17th May so no more time for climbing. Had problem of theft of gear deposited above C1 by Sherpas with other expeditions.


expid: CHOY94108
peakid: CHOY
year: 1994
route1: W side 'W Corner'
nation: UK
leaders: Malcolm Duff
sponsor: Ascent Cho Oyu International Expedition
ascent1: 145
countries: New Zealand, USA, Venezuela
bcdate: 1994-04-23
smtdate: 1994-05-08
smttime: 1015
achievment: 1st Venezuelan atop any 8000er
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(23/04,5260m),ABC(26/04,5700m),C1(29/04,5800m),C2(02/05,6300m),C3(06/05,6900m),C4(07/05,7300m),TrueSmt(08/05)

routememo:
  BC  at Kangchung
  ABC south of Nangpa La
  C1  due east of point 6600m on Gyabrag Glacier on Schneider map
  C2  near point 6500m
  C4  with C3's tent.

  Summit bid from C4 began at 4 am by 5 men who reached top 10:15-10:30 am in no wind & excellent snow conditions but cloudy & began snowing heavily when reached C4 at 3:30 pm with Delgado needing help on descent because of lack of oxygen.

  Pasang Gombu to 8300m (with Soviets?) & summited Api, but this his first 8000m summit.


  David Horrex - March 30, 2002

  Neil Lindsey was given as a summiter on May 8 when actually it was not Lindsey who got to the top, but Horrex. Lindsey was given as the summiter by the leader on his return from Cho Oyu because Horrex was not on the list of authorized members.

accidents:
  Simpson lung infection; Pierce & Secor didn't acclimatize; Jones frostbite of one toe (may lose tip)


expid: AMAD94101
peakid: AMAD
year: 1994
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Guenther Kerber
sponsor: Tirolean Himalaya Expedition OAV 1994 to Ama Dablam
countries: Germany
bcdate: 1994-04-04
smtdate: 1994-04-19
termdate: 1994-04-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to snow fall, lack of manpower & lack of time
campsites: BC(04/04,4500m),ABC(08/04,5400m),C1(12/04,5700m),C2(18/04,6000m),xxx(19/04,6100m)
accidents: Hofner left early because of knee problem
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  19 April Kerber, Simon and sirdar Nima Tashi tried to go to make C3 at 6200-6300m on ice wall, but at 6100m at yellow tower heavy snowfall sent them down. 1st five days on mountain very clear, but then snowfall and wind in afternoons. 19th went back to depot camp, 20th to BC and climb over: weather bad, no other strong and willing climbers and time almost finished.


expid: URKM94101
peakid: URKM
year: 1994
route1: N Face/Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Tamotsu Ohnishi
sponsor: Osaka Yama-no-kai Expedition to Urkinmang
ascent1: 5th
approach: Nangtang Khola->Langshisa Khola
bcdate: 1994-04-18
smtdate: 1994-05-01
smttime: 1630
termdate: 1994-05-02
othersmts: Attempted Ama Dablam (AMAD-941-03)
campsites: BC(18/04,4600m),C1(29/04,5400m),Smt(01/05)
accidents: None
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at Langshisa Glacier
  C1 at North Face.

  Route good simple line, direct to top. Fixed rope from 5000m to summit. 12 hours from C1 to top on 1st May, when had fixed to 5700m already; fixed all the way to summit for descent in dark. On top at 4:30 pm and back to BC at midnight. Climb somewhat difficult mixed rock and ice, ice gully, loose rock. No avalanching. Some steep sections up to 75 degrees (last bit to top steep ice).


expid: DHA194101
peakid: DHA1
year: 1994
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Bart Vos
sponsor: Dhaulagiri Expedition
approach: Myagdi Khola
bcdate: 1994-04-09
smtdate: 1994-04-30
termdate: 1994-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to constant heavy snowfall
campsites: BC(09/04,4650m),C1(26/04,5200m),C2(28/04,5700m),xxx(30/04,7100m)
agency: Trekking International
routememo:
  BC at near normal site
  C2 at 50m below North Col (moved to 5850m)
  High point at NE Ridge.

  Impossible to go to smaller peaks first because deep snow everywhere - even to pass icefall because deep snow. Biv at 5050m 19th April & on 20th back to BC & avalanche covered him. 26th April finally reached C1 & on 28th to C2 in deep  new snow. 29th dumped 2 week's supply at Col & 30th reached normal C4 site, dumped gear (7100m) & down to BC & bad weather again but had gear in place & had to stay 6 nights with one meter new snow everyday, heard falling seracs. Finally 10th May tent with Vos in it pushed 50m aside by windblast of avalanche. Down to BC 11th with constant avalanche threat. Again bad weather & climb abandoned. Spent 22 nights in BC & 14th above; very boring; finished all 4 books taken to read.


expid: CHOY94106
peakid: CHOY
year: 1994
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: Italy
leaders: Oscar Piazza
sponsor: Trentino Expedition to Cho Oyu
ascent1: 147,149
bcdate: 1994-04-20
smtdate: 1994-05-12
smttime: 1200
campsites: BC(20/04),ABC(24/04,5600m),C1(01/05,6200m),C2(02/05,7100m),C3(15/05,7400m),Smt(12,16/05)
accidents: Giambisi bronchitis; altitude problems for Castlunger & Kritzinger
agency: In Wilderness (Kunga)
routememo:
  BC at road
  C3 at was Novak camp.

  After wind took tent out at C2, new tent pitched at 7000m on 8th May. Piazza and Giovanetti went to top from C1: left C1 at 3:30 pm 11 May and climbed without biv; when reached C2 searched for head lamps, couldn't find any, decided to continue ascent through crevasse area with light from one gas cigarette higher; reached C3, met Silhan and Hruby there and climbed after them - on top at 12:00 noon (farthest summit).

  Oberbacher and Kritizinger arrived C1 13th May, 14th C2, 15th to Jiri Novak's C3 (7400m). 16th Kritizinger feeling altitude problems and down alone to ABC while Oberbacher went up 5 am from Novak C3; on true summit 11:30 am (had difficulty finding of route alone and in wind), back to C3 to sleep; went to summit 4 days after Piazza, et al, because his friend Castlunger had altitude problem and he went with her to Zangmu.


expid: CHOY94104
peakid: CHOY
year: 1994
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N (direct)
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Christian Dupre
sponsor: Swiss Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 141
bcdate: 1994-04-14
smtdate: 1994-04-29
smttime: 1200
termdate: 1994-05-05
campsites: ABC(14/04,5700m),C1(17/04,6400m),C2(21/04,7000m),C3(28/04,7600m),Smt(29/04)
accidents: Helene Dupre altitude sickness at Chinese BC & left after 1 night
agency: Surya Travel
routememo:
  1st summit attempt on 29th by Pedrina alone from C3. Left C4 4 am Chinese time & on top at 12:00 noon (went to highest point) & descended to C2. 

  2nd summmit bid set for 3 May but during night of 2nd May tents destroyed by winds: lost C2 and its supplies completely, C2 tent broken; so no actual summit bid on 3rd and climb finished.


expid: CHOY94109
peakid: CHOY
year: 1994
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: Mexico
leaders: Demetrio Carrasco
sponsor: Mexican Expedition Cho Oyu Tibet 1994
countries: Chile
bcdate: 1994-04-25
smtdate: 1994-05-21
termdate: 1994-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to snowfall, lack of Himalayan experience
campsites: BC(25/04),ABC(27/04,5360m),C1(01/05,5900m),C2(05/05,6400m),C3(12/05,7100m),xxx(21/05,8100m)
accidents: None
agency: Pun Hill
routememo:
  13 May summit bid reached 7950m from C3: Carrasco, Rivera, Santos, Pena & Hermosillo tired, Carrasco developed serious coughing & was very windy & cold; it was only 8 am & should have waited, but believed they could come back another day so down to ABC that day. 

  21 May Hermosillo went to 8100m from C3, snow began to fall & his footprints being filled in; he feared he would lose his way on descent & abandoned attempt. 

  Carrasco went to C3, feeling strong, but on 24 May they decided not to try for top alone and brought camp down.


expid: CHOY94110
peakid: CHOY
year: 1994
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Norbert Joos
sponsor: Swiss Cho Oyu Expedition 1994
ascent1: 150
countries: Austria, Germany, UK
bcdate: 1994-05-04
smtdate: 1994-05-20
campsites: BC(04/05),ABC(07/05,5500m),C1(08/05,5950m),C2(10/05,6500m),C3(15/05,7150m),TrueSmt(20/05)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  Summit bid on 14th May from C2 by Blatter and Joos to 8000m but strong wind stopped them and on down to BC; had started a little late. 20th May next bid successful and final bid on 23rd to 7400m only.

  5 members (Ernst, Knorr, Koenig, Oertli, Ruetschi) left BC on 22 May, crossed Nangpa La (told Chinese it was for medical reasons) and flew to KTM from Lukla 27th May. LO didn't mimd.


expid: CHOY94101
peakid: CHOY
year: 1994
route1: W side 'W Corner'
nation: Austria
leaders: Herbert Mayerhofer
sponsor: Austrian-Brazilian Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 1994-03-30
smtdate: 1994-04-27
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to no strength left
campsites: BC(30/03,5200m),ABC(20/04,5600m),C1(07/04,5900m),C2(16/04,6400m),C3(26/04,7100m),xxx(27/04,8000m)
accidents: Karma Tenzing Bhotia said he had serious heart problem; Assem slight frostbite 17 April
agency: Lamjung
routememo:
  ABC at 1/2 hour before Nangpa La.

  1st went to Gokyo, Cho La and Ama Dablam BC to acclimatize (not to Pokalde); removed ABC on 18th April because Tibetan intruders stole everything and didn't need it anymore. On 17th started a cross icefall. From C2 but turned back at 7000m because others with him gave up. After long rest, made 2nd summit bid: 24 April from BC Fritz and Mayerhofer and 2 Sherpas to C1. 25 April one member turned back, no strength, 1 Sherpa with him. Only Fritz and Karma reached C2. 26th to C3, which they pitched, thus started for top when full moon high at 10:00 pm. Climbed steadily till till 4:30 am, 27 April when reached 8000m and reached edge of ice ridge. Stayed an hour hoping summit clouds and light snowfall would stop, then went down with Fritz's toes beginning to freeze and Karma seemed to be have recurrance of heart problem. Were 2 hours from top. 

  Not strong team: Zipper not a climber and 1 of 2 climbing Sherpas lazy (not Karma).


expid: CHOY94102
peakid: CHOY
year: 1994
route1: W Ridge-W Face from N
nation: Germany
leaders: Erhard Loretan
sponsor: International Mountain Climbing (IMC) Cho Oyu Expedition 1994
ascent1: 140,143
countries: Mexico, Switzerland
bcdate: 1994-04-09
smtdate: 1994-04-26
smttime: 0957
campsites: BC(09/04),ABC(13/04,5650m),C1(16/04,6400m),C2(17/04,6700m),C3(03/05,7400m),TrueSmt(26/04,04/05)
accidents: Delgado serious illness (no other serious problems)
achievment: Fastest ascent; 1st Mexican ascent
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  After Carlos arrived ABC got throat infection & stayed in camp 6 days. 20th went to 7400m alone for acclimatization; moved slowly because not fully well; down to ABC on 22nd. Waited till 25th, where had rested & full moon that night left ABC 3:00 pm on 25th in perfect weather (no wind) with Loretan in summit party, but Loretan not so well & no motivation for normal route so he turned back at 6600m at about 7:30 pm. Carlos continued up alone with no wind & full moon light so bright no need to use headlamps for climbing; had beautiful sunrise on Rolwaling; [on top] at 9:57 am, weather bad in descent with cloud & snowfall. Fastest ascent of Cho Oyu 19 hrs - slept in C2 at c7000m in descent; had rested & changed clothes on C1 at 6400m in ascent for one hour. Climbed direct route up from C2. No accident or frostbite; did not use oxygen - now goes to Lhotse.

  Helmut and Walter attempted to reach summit from C2 on 27th April but very cold & windy and turned back at 7500m. Next attempt was by three members who made C3 on the 3rd May with Danu Sherpa, who decended to C1 same day. Summiters left C3 at 5:15 am (Nepali time) & on top 11:20 am together & returned to C3 at 2 pm; 3:00 pm storm came & destroyed tents at C3. Fixed ropes & established C2, then down - doesn't like normal routes & has summited Cho Oyu.
   
  No Chinese police/army seen.


expid: LHOT94101
peakid: LHOT
year: 1994
route1: W Face
nation: Sweden
leaders: Oskar Kihlborg
sponsor: Swedish Lhotse Expedition
ascent1: 25th-27th
countries: Mexico, New Zealand, UK, USA
bcdate: 1994-04-12
smtdate: 1994-05-09
smttime: 1730
othersmts: Climbed Everest (EVER-941-04)
campsites: BC(12/04),C1(15/04,6000m),C2(16/04,6500m),C3(22/04,7200m),C4(08/05,7900m),Smt(09,13,16/05)
accidents: Reuterward frostnipped fingers, nose & cheek
achievment: W Face (normal route): 1st Sweden/Scandinavian; 1st Mexican/Latin American
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on West Face
  C4 between yellow band and bottom of Couloir.

  Swedes went to summit on 9th May in the couloir on hard packed snow. Summited at 5:30 pm with returns to C4 11:30 pm & 3 am in very strong wind going upward in couloir during descent; had forgotton to take headlamps from C4 & was only starlight & had to feel their way down. Fixed 100m above yellow band where Everest fixed roped veered off to the left to C4 & 50m in couloir.

  Carsolio arrived BC 6th May. Attempted summit on 8th May from BC & reached base of Lhotse face (c6700m) & turned back because did not know the way in the dark & too many crevasses; wanted to do expedition climb; returned to BC; continuous ascent with 2 hour rest in C2 & 1 hr in C4 & on up to top at 12:25. Had wanted to make ascent in 21 hours, but last big chang party in BC before started & lost much time with diarrhea. Spoke with wife by radio from summit. Made top in just under 24 hrs in rush at end to make top in less than 24 hrs. No frostbite & accident. Could see W Cwm from top of Lhotse: made special point of noting this.


  Hall - 24 May 94

  Hall and Viesturs went down to BC after Everest ascent and then started up on 14th to C2, 15th to C4 of Lhotse (tent left there by Sweden) 16th 3:30 am left C4 and on top at 9:30 am (not actually on top because impossible to stand there) down to C4 at 11:30 am and C2 at 3:30 pm, slept there "moderately exhausted." Hall led all the way up on hard snow but two men were together all the way despite fact Hall on oxygen and Viesturs none. Cold but very little wind.

  No Sherpas specifically for Lhotse. None carried to C4, but Sherpas with Hall's Everests expedition did leave some supplies at a cache which Hall carried up to C4 and of course had helped with C1, C2 and C3.

  Swede's and Carsolio's color transparencies taken from summit (which I saw) show a section of W Cwm is visable from top of Lhotse.


expid: PUMO94102
peakid: PUMO
year: 1994
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Dirk Jansen
sponsor: German Pumori Expedition 1994
bcdate: 1994-04-30
smtdate: 1994-05-08
termdate: 1994-05-09
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to bad weather & bad ice conditions
campsites: BC(30/04,5300m),ABC(02/05,5750m),Biv(08/05,6200m),xxx(08/05,6200m)
accidents: None except Foerster's fingers
agency: Nepal Trek House
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  Biv1 at top of rocky ridge on SE Face.
  High point at bivouac.

  Always steep ice so had to belay and thus very slow. Ice not hard enough to hold ice axe. From ABC moved up gear and rope 200m/day average and down to ABC to sleep each night until 8th May, when bivouacked at 6200m (all 4 climbers together). Snowfall every afternoon and that could not see wall. Foerster's fingers got frostbitten while putting up tent at bivouac. 9th down because morning cloudy, lightning previous night and ice conditions bad; at 5800-5900m rock falling.


expid: BARU94101
peakid: BARU
year: 1994
route1: W Face of N Col-NW Face-N Ridge-N Smt
nation: Czechoslovakia
leaders: Martin Otta
sponsor: Czech Expedition to Baruntse 1994
bcdate: 1994-04-07
smtdate: 1994-05-06
termdate: 1994-05-09
termnote: Abandoned at 7014m (N Smt) due to wet equipment
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
accidents: Nothing
agency: Everest Adventure
campsites:
  BC(07/04,4970m),ABC(24/04,5600m),Biv1(02/05,5970m),Biv2(03/05,6210m),Biv3(04/05,6400m),Biv4(05/05,6580m),N-Smt(06/05)

routememo:
  BC at Imja Khola
  Biv 1 at Imja Glacier at bottom of west wall of North Col
  Biv 2 at west wall of North Col
  Biv 3 at west wall
  Biv 4 on North Ridge.

  Most difficult part between 1st & 2nd biv rock ramp of 200m height. Slept 6th night back in 4th biv. Did not go on to other summits because sleeping bags, etc had gotten very wet; Otta's gloves shredded & had to go up from 4th biv without gloves. Descent route Spring '84 Koreans.

  At first, team summited Island Peak, then 6 to Baruntse (Stastry had altitude problem on Island Peak).


  Martin Otta - 15 May 94

  1) West Face - Baruntse North
  2) From Imja Glacier
  3) Start: 2 May from ABC (5600m)
     a) 2 May from 5600m to 5950m direct approx 50-60 degree ice climbing.
     b) 5950m to 6150m ramp from left to right approx 65-70 (200m) ice with
        unpleasant stones and finish mixed terrain 70 degree 50m
        Biv1 at 5970m in ramp.
     c) 1st snowfield - 100m 60 degree slope - from left to right to right 
        upper corner and 20m mix (IV) Between Biv1 and Biv2 snowfield, good
        hard snow.
        Biv2 at 6210m in 1st snowfield.
     d) 2nd snowfield 200m 55 degree direct up - good hard snow.
     e) 3rd snowfield 150m 60-65 degree ice -> no hard bad snow following 
        left side of field.
     f) 4th snowfield (200-250m) traverse in upper part of field (approx 50 
        degree) - very good hard snow. Biv3 at 6400m in snowfield.
     g) from 4th snowfield before end direct up in mixed terrain (IV) 50m 
        and continue 100m to the north ridge to four stones - Biv4 at 6580m.
     h) from 6580m North Ridge to the North Summit (7014m).
     i) descending - North Ridge to Numri-La, from Numri-La to Imja Glacier
        6-8 May (basecamp).


expid: PUMO94101
peakid: PUMO
year: 1994
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Ruggero Zanini
sponsor: Pumori 1994
ascent1: 88th
bcdate: 1994-04-05
smtdate: 1994-04-14
smttime: 1530
termdate: 1994-04-17
campsites: BC(05/04,5300m),C1(08/04,5750m),C2(12/04,6300m),C3(13/04,6520m),Smt(14/04)
accidents: Castella bad altitude sickness (stayed at BC after this); nothing else serious
agency: Sherpa Alpine Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site near small lake below Kalapattar
  C1 on rib on SE Face
  C3 under rock 30m below East Ridge.

  Every night temperature at BC -10 to -20 degrees. Not possible to go to S Ridge in short time available so went on rib on SE Face (same as Spanish Spring 1985). 14 April 3 summiters on top at 3:30 pm (left C3 7:30 am going up and returned to C3 6:30 pm). No time or strength for more to top. 

  BC -> C1 all rock and walking; C1 - mixed rock and ice for 350m, then always ice till near summit where ws soft snow for last 200m.


expid: MAKA94101
peakid: MAKA
year: 1994
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Thor Kieser
sponsor: Condor Adventures International Makalu Expedition
ascent1: 41st
countries: Bolivia, Kazakhstan, UK
bcdate: 1994-04-02
smtdate: 1994-05-15
smttime: 1615
termdate: 1994-05-17
othersmts: Climbed Kangchungste (Makalu II) (MAK2-941-01) and Chomo Lonzo
campsites: BC(02/04,5600m),C1(03/04,6400m),C2(20/04,7400m),C3(28/04,7700m),Smt(15/05)
accidents: None
achievment: 1st Russian ascent; 1st attempt by South American and Native American
agency: Above the Clouds
routememo:
  BC at middle of Chago Glacier's southern end
  C1 on NW Ridge
  C2 at Makalu La
  C3 on North Face.

  1st summit bid was made by 2 members 29th April & down to C3 [Guarachi and Boukreev stopped 30m below summit due to route difficulties]. Guarachi left expedition while Boukreev stayed on to attempt speed ascent & was in C3 on his way up when Kieser left BC on 14th May. 

  May 8th McPherson tried alone from C3 & got to 8200m before wind & clouds made him decide to turn back (didn't want to climb alone in clouds) & down to C3 & left for home. 

  May 9th third summit bid after spell of bad weather & resting from supporting 1st team. 9th May Bain, Beidleman & Kieser left C3 for top at 1:45 am (Bain on oxygen, others two not); Beidleman & Kieser turned back at 8340m, close to summit ridge, because of getting late, cloudy & tired; all three were making stupid mistakes at 100m in route finding. Bain continued to 20m below summit & down to C2 (were only 2 sleeping bags in C3). Beidleman & Boukreev left BC at 5:30 pm on 13th, were in C2 4 am on 14th; going for ascent in 24 hrs (without oxygen). Beidleman had returned to BC only on 10th May, amazing how he could go back up so soon. Making normal route very safe. Bain had gone to top of Makalu II alone from C2 2 May & on 10 May went alone to Chomo Lonzo summit & from C2 via SW Ridge. Back to C2 in same day, arrived BC very tired on 11 May.

  Beidleman & Boukreev (without oxygen)
  Left BC 13 May 6:30 pm
  Arrived C2 14 May 4:00 am
  Left C2 5:00
  In C3 6:15 - C3 tent flattened so spent several hours putting it back together - brewed tea & slept
  Left C3 2:00 pm - too tired to go top so at 2:30-3:00 pm back to C3 for better sleep.
  Returned C3 3:30 am 
  Left C3 15 May 8:30am
  On summit 4:15 pm
  Returned to C3 at 6:30 pm 
  Returned to BC 16 May which now had been cleared & on to lower BC at 4600m - a long day (Hillary BC).
  Bain got to 20m below summit, to summit ridge & then stopped ascent at technically difficult steep knife-edge since he was alone.


  Part of a note from E. Hawley to Adams Carter, editor of the American Alpine Journal, 6 September, 1994:

  Makalu Spring 1994

  I have been talking in recent days with two men who were on Makalu last spring, and I have now learned that the only people who actually reached the summit were Anatoli Boukreev and Neal Beidleman on 15 May. According to Beidleman, who has returned to Nepal just now to lead a team on Cho Oyu, and Bernardo Guarachi, who has been in town to go to the Tibetan side of Everest, on 29 April, Guarachi reached the area of the summit at the base of twin ice towers; he considered this to be good enough but was perhaps 50 meters vertically below the very highest point. Boukreev, who had been climbing with him, went on farther to about 20 vertical meters below the top. Only on 15 May did anyone from their expedition reach the summit at the second tower, and they were Boukreev and Beidleman.


  Beidleman said on 3 Sept 94:

  Those who tried to reach the summit actually got to the following vertical distances below Makalu's summit:

  29 April - Guarachi 50m
             Boukreev 15-20m
  09 May   - Bain 50m
             Kieser 125m
             Beidleman 125m
  15 May   - Boukreev on top
             Beidleman on top

  The wording of Climbing's story attached here on the right is correct, he said.

  On Makalu (8463 meters), a Bolivian, who says he is the first Native American ever to climb in the Himalaya, reached the base of the twin ice towers approximately 30 meters from the summit via the normal route on the northwest side. Bernardo Guarachi, a 41-year-old mountain guide from La Paz, reached his high point on April 29 with Russian climber Anatoli Boukreev, who continued solo to just below the summit. On May 9, American climbers Steve Bain, Thor Kieser, and Neal Beidleman climbed to within 125 meters of the summit; Bain, using oxygen, continued alone to the base of the ice towers.

  Boukreev and Beidleman stayed on to repeat the Makalu climb in a speed ascent that they hoped to accomplish in under 24 hours. The two men left basecamp (5300m) at 6:30 pm on May 13, climbed through the night, reached C2 (7400m) at 4 am, and stayed there an hour before pushing to C3 (7700m) on the North Face, where they arrived at 6:15 am to find its tent flattened. The two spent several hours rebuilding the camp, brewing tea, and sleeping, before setting out for the top at 2 pm, but returned to C3 an hour and a half later, too lethargic for a summit attempt.

  They set out again at 8:30 am and 46 hours after leaving basecamp, gained the true summit at 4:15 pm on May 15.


expid: BARU94102
peakid: BARU
year: 1994
route1: SE Ridge from W
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Thomas Pfenninger
sponsor: Swiss Baruntse Expedition
ascent1: 29th
bcdate: 1994-04-16
smtdate: 1994-05-04
termdate: 1994-05-17
campsites: BC(16/04,5400m),C1(22/04,6100m),C2(03/05,6600m),Smt(04/05)
accidents: None
agency: Kailash Journeys Treks
routememo:
  BC near smaller lake WSW of West Col (west side of lake)
  C1 at West Col
  C2 at beginning of SE Ridge.

  At 6800m powdered snow was deep and therefore a problem. Very icy approaching West Col. Fixed 200m at West Col and on ridge 250m from 6800m to 6900m using cornices to secure rope.


expid: CHOY94201
peakid: CHOY
year: 1994
route1: W side 'W Corner'
nation: UK
leaders: Jonathan Tinker
sponsor: OTT (Out There Trekking) Sishapangma-Cho Oyu Expedition
countries: Australia, USA
bcdate: 1994-06-01
smtdate: 1994-06-07
termdate: 1994-06-14
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to wind & Brennan's painful ribs
othersmts: Climbed Xixabangma (West Smt)
campsites: BC(01/06,5000m),C1(03/06,5500m),C2(05/06,6700m),xxx(07/06,6800m)
accidents: Brennan's ribs damaged in minibus, very painful
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  BC at road (ruined barracks)
  High point on NW Face.

  Only 5 (4 members, 1 Sherpa) went to Cho Oyu and attempted it in pure alpine-style from BC. Had already been on Xixabangma and all except Michael Brennan had reached its West Summit.


expid: ANN194201
peakid: ANN1
year: 1994
route1: N Face (Dutch Rib)
nation: Japan
leaders: Ichiro Hosoda
sponsor: Kouhoku Alpine Club Annapurna I Expedition 1994
bcdate: 1994-07-19
smtdate: 1994-08-10
termdate: 1994-08-18
termnote: Abandoned at 5840m due to avalanching and lack of manpower
accidents: Koto & Oomiya altitude sickness; falling stones hit Kokubo but no broken bones
campsites:
  BC(19/07,4200m),ABC(21/07,4900m),C1A(28/07,5400m),C1B(30/07,5200m),C2(10/08,5840m),xxx(10,12/08,5840m)

routememo:
  Avalanche destroyed C1 on 29th July & repitched 30 July at 5200m. C2 also destroyed by avalanche when Hosoda alone on 12 Aug to C2 but could stay there that night. Afraid more avalanching coming & Oomiya had developed pulmonary edema on way to C2. Hosoda on 13th to BC & climb finished.

  Kato also got altitude sickness. Kokubo & Taira heard avalanching & not interested in climbing after Kokubo had been to 1st C1 & Taira to new C1. C2 pitched on 10th Aug but not slept in them. Hosoda on 12th only person to sleep in C2. Fixed BC to ABC 200m, bottom of Dutch Rib to 200m, C2 400m.


expid: DHA194301
peakid: DHA1
year: 1994
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Ichita Ono
sponsor: Club Yama-Bokko Dhaulagiri I Expedition 1994
ascent1: 65th
bcdate: 1994-08-25
smtdate: 1994-09-27
campsites: BC(25/08,4700m),C1(02/09,5700m),C2(13/09,6400m),C3(26/09,7360m),Smt(27/09)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  C1 at NE Col.

  Summit party on 27 Sept included Tamanai, who began vomiting at 7900m and turned back with a Sherpa while Ueno and 2 Nepalese continued to top. Ueno toes frostbitten in descent to C3, which reached 5:00 pm (had left C3 on 26th 30 minutes after midnight)

  Sirdar Hasta Bahadur Gurung on 23 Sept taken from 6750m by slab avalanches 650m down; broken hand and maybe ribs but now Ok.

accidents:
  Ueno frostbitten toes (may loose tips); sirdar Hasta Bahadur Gurung 23 Sept taken from 6750m by slab avalanche 650m down, broke hand & maybe ribs but now OK


expid: TUKU94301
peakid: TUKU
year: 1994
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Shingoro Tamai
sponsor: Kobe Workers Alpine Federation Tukuche Peak Expedition
ascent1: 17th
bcdate: 1994-09-25
smtdate: 1994-10-07
smttime: 1100
termdate: 1994-10-08
campsites: BC(25/09,4970m),C1(01/10,6000m),C2(06/10,6500m),Smt(07/10)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Hidden Valley near point 5087m on Japanese Dhaulagiri map
  C1 on ridge just before North and NW Ridges West
  C2 on ridge just after North and NW Ridges West.

  Not so difficult, but many hidden crevasse between C1 and C2 (one member fell in one but not injured).

accidents:
  Yuasa had cold & spent a week at Marpha so got only to C1; Tamai frostbitten fingers & toes but will lose nothing


expid: DHA194305
peakid: DHA1
year: 1994
route1: NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Richard Henke
sponsor: Southern California Expedition to Dhaulagiri 1994
ascent1: 67th,68th
countries: UK
bcdate: 1994-09-11
smtdate: 1994-10-03
smttime: 1230
campsites: BC(11/09,4725m),C1(14/09,5800m),C2(21/09,6700m),C3(26/09,7000m),C4(30/09,7250m),Smt(03-04/10)
accidents: Robert Green & Johnson slight frostbite & Henke also frostnip
agency: Arniko Travel
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at NE Col.

  4th Oct summiters got to top at 2:30 pm & misjudged time to get down to C4 & had headlamps but snow blowing & at 25,000 ft at 6 pm bivouacked; at midnight Robert Green realized toes froze & put them on Johnson's stomach to keep warm; reached C4 at 10:30 am. 

  9th Oct Brameld & Custer reached 8000m & stopped by very high winds at 8 am.


expid: DHA194304
peakid: DHA1
year: 1994
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Marco Berti
sponsor: International Dhaulagiri Expedition
ascent1: 61st w/Swz,63rd
countries: Poland, Portugal, USA
bcdate: 1994-09-05
smtdate: 1994-09-25
campsites: BC(05/09,4800m),C1(08/09,5700m),C2(14/09,6850m),C3(24/09,7200m),Smt(25-26/09)
accidents: Garcia frostbitten toes
agency: Himalayan Excursions
routememo:
  BC at normal route
  C1 at Col
  C2 on NE Ridge
  C3 on NE Ridge.

  Had only 3 days of serious storm with much avalanching around 18 Sept.


expid: DHA194307
peakid: DHA1
year: 1994
route1: NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Michel Richard
sponsor: French Dhaulagiri Expedition 1994
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 1994-09-27
smtdate: 1994-10-16
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to winds & client's fatigue
campsites: BC(27/09,4750m0,C1(02/10,5800m),C2(07/10,6800m),xxx(16/10,7400m)
accidents: 1 Sherpa frostnipped toes - nothing else
agency: Tip & Top Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 just below col
  High point at NE Ridge.

  3 Sherpas reached C3 site on 16 Oct and left gear there returned to BC and after climb finished 2 of them back to retrieve it on 21 Oct. Members reached 7100m on 18 Oct and retreated in face of wind too strong for clients and spent night in C1. Clients tired now and not enough time for BC rest and remount attack (Richard, Parein, Brigaudeau, Keller, Ang Dawa and Nima).


expid: DHA194308
peakid: DHA1
year: 1994
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Bernard Mousny
sponsor: Belgian Military Expedition Expedition Dhaulagiri 1994
bcdate: 1994-10-08
smtdate: 1994-10-16
termdate: 1994-10-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to dangerous snow conditions, wind & cold
campsites: BC(08/10,4800m),Dep(10/10,5200m),C1(11/10,5900m),C2(15/10,6200m),xxx(16/10,7600m)
accidents: Vansteene fell jumping a crevase & injured his knee; nothing else
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  Depot camp 0n a plateau
  C1 above col on right side of col
  C2 on NE Ridge
  High point at NE Ridge.

  Took long time to reach C2 because of winds. Had acclimatization up to 6000m in 8 days in Chamonix lodge and in 5 days Brussels pressure chamber for pilots but above 6000m did feel altitude. From Brussels chamber to BC was 9 days. 17th 3 Ukrainians dissappeared in slab avalanche & French Sherpas investigated snow conditions & reported terrible snow condition. Now 25th at 6000m after sun behind ridge at 3 pm.

  Ukrainians took clothing & gear of other teams.

  Mousny did no climbing on Dhaulagiri because not acclimatized since had not been Brussels chamber.


expid: DHA194306
peakid: DHA1
year: 1994
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Ivan Valenia
sponsor: National Ukrainian Expedition to Dhaulagiri I
ascent1: 69th,70th
bcdate: 1994-09-22
smtdate: 1994-10-11
campsites: BC(22/09,4850m),C1(26/09,5800m),C2(27/09,6700m),C3(05/10,7320m),Smt(11,13,18/10)
accidents: Tanet's one eye problem; Svergun slight frostbite; leader in poor health; one fatality
achievment: 1st Ukrainian ascent
agency: Himalayan Sherpa Adventure
routememo:
  Galina fell on 13 Oct near BC Icefall and disappeared; don't know if she died. Climb ceased in search and on 14th all down from high camps; former Soviet Union climbing ethics did not allow for climbing after a member dies or disappears.

  Ena and Galina to top with other 3 on 13th. Galina fell on descent at about 7400m at traverse at 7:00 pm; no one saw her fall. She should have been in camp 10 minutes after others but never came and search did not reveal any traces. No other summit bids: first searched, then no heart for it. Leader to C3 but health not good, arrived late from Pokhara and ended expedition staying in BC. Ena, Galina and Lebedev were not on expedition's permit because their trekking agent failed to keep promise to add their names when money arrived summited and when realized they were not, leader told all members not to speak in KTM their summiting (correct reports published in Ukrainian papers).


  Dhaulagiri I (1994) Autumn 1994 Ukrainian expedition led by Valenia: 

  This team gave a false report to the Nepalese tourism ministry, and at the time I got some information from the Ukrainians and other teams who were on the mountain at the same time; part of this information was incorrect. This September (1999), I interviewed one of the leading climbers from this expedition, Victor Pastuk, who had come back to climb Xixabangma later that month), and he gave me data that I am confident are correct. He said: "The summit was reached on 11 October, 1994 by Igor Svergun and Gennady Lebedev; they were followed to the top on 13 Oct by Vladimir Gorbach, Igor Chaplinsky, Vladimir Lanko, Miss Tamara Ena and Mrs Galina Tchekanova. (Ena, Lebedev and Tchekanova had not been included in the orginal list of members given to the tourism ministry because the expedition did not have enough money to do so at the start of the climb, and their trekking agent failed to pay when the funds did turn up, so their successes could not be revealed at the time.) Tchekanova is assumed to have fallen on her descent from the top at about7400m at the traverse by those coming down just ahead of her, and she should have joined them in C3 at 7320m ten minutes after them. She never arrived and the search for her produced no traces of where she went. No more attempts were made to go to the top; ethics of the Soviet Union and its successor states do not allow a climb to continue after the death or disappearance of a member.


  Original Notes (1994)

  1st summit bid by 3 members, but only Svergun to top because not well acclimatized; Svergun on top only 10 minutes, very windy returned to C4 same day; had left C3 5 am; reached BC 12th at 21 hrs. 2nd party better acclimatized than 1st one (had made C3 and then descended) and left C3 for top at 5:30 am and reached top at 12:10 pm.

  No attempt on Annapurna - no time or money.

  28th Oct: official explanation of Tchekanova's death is that she disappeared at/near BC; only 9 members were in climbing permit; she, Ena and Lebedev were not. Expedition is not admitting to any summit success after 13th, but Tanets reluctantly says "maybe more members did succeed." Besides 12 climbers there were at BC a journalist and an elderly climber who managed BC. Expedition was not highly disciplined or tightly structured: people who wanted to come and who paid, came - everyone climbed unroped, independently of others.

  French and Belgian Dhaulagiri teams heard 3 Ukrainians lost between summit and C3 17th or 18th Oct. Tanets: only Tchekanova is dead. 

  1 Nov 94: Sedov of Belarussian Kangchenjunga expedition, staying in same small hotel as Ukrainians and having talked with them, says four Ukrainians went to summit on same day; including Tchekanova, which date he doesn't know - summiters were Tchekanova, Ena (also not on expedition permit), leader Valenia and Vasilenko - only Tchekanova died.

  15 March 96 - according to Chultim of expedition's trekking agency, last summiters (on 18 Oct?) were Ena, Tchekanova, Bershov (deputy leader) and Vasilenko, according to team's Sherpas - Valenia never went to BC, stayed at Jomsom throughout climb.


  Email to Eberhard Jurgalski from Mstislav Gorbenko - 12 May 2005

  Dear Eberhard!
  > On 11.10.94  G.Lebedev, I.Svergun have reached the top of Dhaulagiry
  (North-East crest).
  > On 13.10.94 - V.Gorbach, I.Chaplinskiy, V.Lanko, T.Ena, G.Chekanova have
  summited.
  > S.Bershov and G.Vasilenko haven't reached the top of Dhaulagiry in 1994.
  > Best wishes, Mstislav Gorbenko.


expid: DHA194303
peakid: DHA1
year: 1994
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Olivier Roduit
sponsor: Dhaulagiri Swiss Guides Expedition
ascent1: 61st,62nd,64th
bcdate: 1994-09-02
smtdate: 1994-09-25
campsites: BC(02/09,4800m),C1(08/09,5700m),C2(11/09,6600m),C3(24/09,7200m),Smt(25-27/09)
accidents: None except fatal fall
agency: Sherpa & Swiss Adventures
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at Col
  C2 on NE Ridge
  C3 on NE Ridge.

  C3 established for summit push - tried first summit push when weather turned bad: 2 members in C2 on 18th Sept when over one meter of snow fell on them & descended next day because Radio Nepal reported continued bad weather for 3-4 days. On 2nd summit push C3 established & top reached.

  Baehler turned back from summit party; as oldest did not have ambition to go to top but to go as high as he felt like & 2 hrs before he fell he said on radio he felt too tired to go to summit "but I didn't care (about missing summit) its so marvelous up here." Probably he waited for Italian-Polish US team's summiters to go by so he could follow them. Pole was ahead of him (30-50m ahead) & American further behind, could not see Baehler when he fell by Pole who heard something & saw him sliding - no track of him fall seen in snow which was constantly windswept; ice ax found at probably point of fall; no attempt to go down N Face because it dangerously exposed to avalanches - his ice axe found 200m below about where his fall started.

  On 3rd Oct Perraudin said 25th Sept summiters took different lines just below summit & Caughron of Italian-Polish expedition explained 5 Oct 1994 that Swiss didn't know which was correct line to top on 25th Sept. Their member Paul (Amandruz) line to right with 2 Italians while Francois took line to left, which was wrong; it got him to 40m below summit & then impossible for him to go higher; without oxygen, ropes and teammates he hadn't strength to go down 200m, make long traverse to correct lines to right & up again (he had come up from C2 & descended to C2).


expid: ANN394302
peakid: ANN3
year: 1994
route1: W Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Cesar Gregorio
sponsor: Extremadura Expedition 1994 to Annapurna III
bcdate: 1994-09-29
smtdate: 1994-10-06
termnote: Abandoned at 5400m due to falling rock and leader's eye injury from falling rock
campsites: BC(29/09,3975m),C1(02/10,4600m),C2(05/10,5100m),xxx(06/10,5400m)
accidents: Gregorio eye hit by rock
agency: Ama Dablam Trekking
routememo:
  BC at west side of river Modi Khola
  C1 at right side of East Glacier
  C2 at left side of central rock.

  While climbing above C2 at 5400m big stone went into many pieces and one piece hit Gregorio in eye and made a scar but sight will be Ok. This route had much falling stone and ice blocks from SW Face which is very steep.


expid: ANN494301
peakid: ANN4
year: 1994
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Zare Guzej
sponsor: Slovenian Annapurna IV Expedition
countries: Italy
bcdate: 1994-09-23
smtdate: 1994-10-11
termdate: 1994-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to strong winds
campsites: BC(23/09,4700m),C1(29/09,5800m),C2(04/10,6400m),C3(05/10,6600m),xxx(11/10,6700m)
accidents: 1 slight frostbite
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC at Sabje Khola
  C2 on NW Ridge
  C3 on NW Ridge
  High point on NW Ridge.

  Lenarcic and Bratanic on 11th Oct left C3 and reached 6700m in 1/2 km distance and turned back in 150 km/hr winds and Lenarcic some toes slightly frostbtten. Zoric, Strmsek and Guzej waited in C1 4 days for chance to make summit bid but still fierce winds so down to BC 14th. 15th snow started falling with 30 cm soft snow at C1.


expid: TILI94301
peakid: TILI
year: 1994
route1: NE Spur-N Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Miguel Angel Martin
sponsor: Bomberos Tilicho Expedition 1994
ascent1: 21th
bcdate: 1994-09-24
smtdate: 1994-10-10
campsites: BC(24/09,4800m),C1(04/10,5900m),C2(09/10,6300m),Smt(10/10)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC 30m above Tilicho Lake's northeast end
  C1 at NE Spur (halfway to North Ridge)
  C2 at top of spur before crevasse.

  Route very technical and must fix rope from C1 to C2 (continuously fixed to C1).


expid: TILI94302
peakid: TILI
year: 1994
route1: S Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Colin Scott
sponsor: Himalaya Venture 1994 to Tilicho
bcdate: 1994-09-25
smtdate: 1994-10-18
termdate: 1994-10-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to stone fall & loose snow
campsites: BC(25/09,4180m),C1(29/09,5300m),C2(04/10,5700m),xxx(18/10,6600m)
accidents: McLachlan's elbow hit by falling stone & had to stop climbing
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  BC just east of small lake due east of Tilicho
  C1 near bottom of South Ridge on the ridge
  C2 on South Ridge
  High point at 6600m.

  After C2 pitched, tried climbing 100-200m to left of S Ridge but because of stone fall in that side so retreated at 6100m to C2 and tried line 100-200m to right of ridge till at 6600m were almost back to ridge when stopped here by bombardment of falling stones plus too soft snow to progress up it. If had more snow and good snow would have succeeded; were slowed "significantly" by stone fall. At bottom near C1 and C2 some very loose and steep rock sections. Would not go back to this South Ridge.


expid: GLAC94301
peakid: GLAC
year: 1994
route1: S Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Torsten Leyh
sponsor: German Glacier Dome Expedition
bcdate: 1994-10-05
smtdate: 1994-10-07
termdate: 1994-10-08
termnote: Abandoned at 5300m due to dangerous conditions on mountain & Leyh not very fit
othersmts: Attempted Fluted Peak
campsites: BC(05/10,4800m),C1(07/10,5300m),xxx(07/10,5300m)
accidents: Leyh head cold & reaction to other medication
agency: Lamjung
routememo:
  BC northeast of Tent Peak (pt 5663m on German Annapurna map)
  C1 on SE Spur of Fluted Peak
  High point at C1 on Fluted Peak.

  From C1 saw 2 avalanches of snow & falling stone down S Face of Glacier Dome & very steep at top. Leyh at BC was not well, so decided to cancel climb. Also glacier below S Face making serious amount of noise. Both Sherpas, who have summited 8000ers, agreed conditions dangerous. Had to fix rope coming down from C1 & also from Macchapuchare BC to Eve's BC for porters on dangerous rock.

  Comparing pictures of mountain and reality, pictures captioned Glacier Dome are actually of an unnamed peak east of it, point 7069 on German map.


expid: ANN494302
peakid: ANN4
year: 1994
route1: NW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Bruno Douillet
sponsor: Allibert Annapurna IV Expedition
bcdate: 1994-10-12
smtdate: 1994-10-25
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(12/10,4800m),C1(14/10,5300m),C2(16/10,5800m),C3(24/10,6450m),xxx(25/10,6700m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  High point at NW Ridge.

  Stopped at 6700m because on north side smooth & south side slightly windy & avalanche danger.


expid: ANN394301
peakid: ANN3
year: 1994
route1: SW Ridge-W Face
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Boris Strmsek
sponsor: Slovenian Himalaya Expedition Annapurna III 1994
countries: Germany
bcdate: 1994-09-21
smtdate: 1994-10-14
termdate: 1994-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to fatal accident
campsites: BC(21/09,4050m),Dep(23/09,5050m),C1(26/09,5100m),C2(06/10,5750m),C3(09/10,6600m),xxx(14/10,7000m)
accidents: 1 frostbitten finger case & 1 frostnip leg; Dolinsek killed (in fall?)
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC under Gandharbha Chuli
  Deposit before glacier
  C2 at bottom of SW Ridge
  High point on W Face.

  Very bad rock above C1, no belays on first line attempted and changed line slightly, fixed ropes and made C2. 14 Oct Dolinsek left C3 alone for summit from C3 despite advice no one should go alone. At 6750m he radioed he was having trouble with ice screws and was in fog. Next day could see a man had fallen (traces of gear). Waited 2 days in C1 for him to return but he did not reappear and no idea where his body is. There was lot of falling seracs at this time. Think he fell 1000m into crevasse.

  Fixed 500m rope from Machhapuchare BC to expedition's BC.


expid: TILI94303
peakid: TILI
year: 1994
route1: NE Spur-N Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Hubert Fritzenwallner
sponsor: Austrian Tilicho Peak Expedition
ascent1: 19th,22nd
bcdate: 1994-10-05
smtdate: 1994-10-10
campsites: BC(05/10,4850m),Dep(06/10,5800m),C1(09/10,6200m),Smt(10-11/10)
accidents: 2 members mild alttude sickness; nothing else
achievment: 1st Austrian attempt and 1st success
agency: Pleasure
routememo:
  BC near northeast end of Tilicho Lake
  Depot at NE Spur (not slept in)
  C1 at top of NE Spur (normal C2 site).

  5 members slept night of 9th in C1 but next morning 2 go down with altitude problems while 3 to summit and leader arrives at C1. One member attempted again on 12th to make summit bid but again altitude sickness and down from C1. Very good snow conditions. No avalanche problem.

  Before went to Tilicho, trekked around west side of Dhaulagiri & down to Kali Gandaki at Marpha so had 6 nights of acclimatization.

  1. Italian Dhaulagiri BC 3700m
  2. Stop BC 3900m
  3. Normal Dhaulagiri BC 4800m
  4-6. Near Dhampus Pass; then 3 nights 2 days rest at Marpha. 

  Left Marpha 4th Oct and slept at 4150m before Mesokantu Pass.


expid: ANN194302
peakid: ANN1
year: 1994
route1: S Face (Korean rte)
nation: France
leaders: Erik Decamp
sponsor: French Team to Xixabangma and Annapurna I
bcdate: 1994-10-10
smtdate: 1994-10-24
termdate: 1994-11-14
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to avalanche danger and strong winds
othersmts: Attempted Xixabangma before Annapurna (no summit)
campsites: BC(10/10,5000m),C1(13/10,6200m),C2(17/10,6800m),C3(23/10,7400m),xxx(24/10,7800m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC same as Koreans (normal ABC)
  C1 at Bonington C3
  C2 at left of Bonington route
  High point at South Face left of Bonington route.

  Korean's route at and above 6800m better and safer than Bonington route; "very good route" says Decamp; wanted to use Korean's route in descent so went to their C5 at 7400m. 24th went half way to top from 7400m but started to snow at 11:00 am (snowed every day from 9 am or later like monsoon, never had sunlight after noon after 20th Oct). Decided to go down, rest and wait for better weather but never reached base of pillar; had planned to traverse right top between Bonington and Beghin routes. One Sherpa was to bring gear to bottom of pillar and even invited him to top via Korean route but had to be belayed above 7400m and he slowed them on 24th. Much unconsolidated snow and slab avalanche danger increasing. On 25th returned to BC. Tried to go up again on 1 Nov and did not reach C2 because of strong wind, some snowfall and many snow avalanches ("very scared" says Destivelle). 10th again up but stayed 3 days there and down on 13th and it was over but still hoping to go again but did not. "Pillar is good but 2 climbers not enough" says Destivelle.

  Tournaire only to C1; reaching C1 involves rock climbing.


expid: ANN194301
peakid: ANN1
year: 1994
route1: S Face (new line)
nation: S Korea
leaders: Park Ju-Hwan
sponsor: Korean Annapurna I S Face Expedition
ascent1: 30th
bcdate: 1994-09-16
smtdate: 1994-10-10
smttime: 1610
termdate: 1994-10-12
achievment: 1st Korean ascent
agency: Windhorse Trekking
campsites:
  BC(16/09,5100m),C1(17/09,5600m),C2(21/09,6200m),C3(26/09,6800m),C4(29/09,7050m),C5(09/10,7400m),Smt(10/10)

routememo:
  BC at normal C1 site
  C2 at Bonington C3
  C3 at route here west to left of Bonington route
  C4 at Bonington C6.

  BC to C2 same as Bonington route but not above C2 to C4 then back to Bonington route. Made variation because wanted new route. Rock fall hit 2 Sherpas on different days 5 days apart. All climbers wore helmets since from BC to C4 rock was falling. Summit 4 men started from C5 at 6:20 am & reached summit 4:10-4:15 pm; only 4 summiters because not enough food & equipment at C5 for more. Fixed 4000m rope & all left on mountain but all other gear brought down. Very difficult route. C4 reached by 5 members but summiters only one to C5.

  Nepalese summiters (according to Dawa Sherpa):
    Dawa Sherpa from Salleri, Solu, 33 yrs (his 1st 8000m summit)
    Dawa Tamang from Ghorekhani, 26 yrs (his 1st 8000m summit)
    Mingma Tamang from Chimdung, Solu, 32 yrs (scaled Makalu Aut '93)


  Decamp & Destiville - 22 Nov 94 

  Korean's route a good one, safer than Bonington route.

accidents:
  Rock fall hit Sarki & Dorje Sherpa, left some injury; Park Jung-Hun frostbitten toes & fingers (probably lose nothing)


expid: MANA94301
peakid: MANA
year: 1994
route1: NE Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Andre Georges
sponsor: Manaslu Expedition
ascent1: 44th
countries: France, Netherlands
bcdate: 1994-09-23
smtdate: 1994-10-19
smttime: 1130
accidents: Nothing
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
campsites:
  BC(23/09,4000m),BC2(26/09,4900m),C1(28/09,5500m),C2(01/10,6000m),C3(02/10,6800m),C4(06/10,7400m),Smt(19/10)

routememo:
  C1 at Naike Col.

  Porters only go to 4000m but not good place so expedition moved BC up to good site after 3 days. 27-29 Sept beautiful weather but then the winds started and were very strong. C4 pitched but winds destroyed tent and not sensible to pitch new C4. When making C2 heavy snowfall and little avalanching. 

  1st summit attempt was from C3 on 9 Oct Georges and Salamin to 7500m, next Chantal Mauduit 11th to 7600m, 13th Turrettini to 7000m. 19 Oct Georges, Salamin and Mauduit from C3 for top, Mauduit again only to 7600m (the plateau) because of winds ("she had not enough kilos") while other 2 went to summit at 11:30 am and returned to C3 that night (Sherpas had already cleared C1 and C2). This the last day for climbing because of fixed program and flight bookings.

  Fixed ropes: 300m on big seracs between C1 and C2.


expid: GYAJ94301
peakid: GYAJ
year: 1994
route1: W side from NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Gupta Bahadur Rana, Taichi Fujimatsu
sponsor: Japan Shinshu University & Nepal Police Joint Expedition
ascent1: 1st,2nd,3rd
countries: Nepal
approach: Marshyangdi River->Markhola->Phu Khola->BC
bcdate: 1994-09-19
smtdate: 1994-10-07
smttime: 0740
termdate: 1994-10-19
campsites: BC(19/09,4800m),C1(24/09,5350m),C2(30/09,6100m),C3(06/10,6600m),Smt(07,10,14/10)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Nepal Police
routememo:
  BC by side of glacier
  C2 northeast of NW Ridge
  C3 between NW Ridge and small north ridge below West Ridge.

  1st summit: 6 men left C3 6 am and reached W Summit at 7:40 am and all to East Summit at 8:55 am because from West Summit the east one appeared higher; returned to C3 at 7 am, W Summit 8:45 am; 3 Japanese and Nuru went also to E Summit at 10:00 am and BC 4:30 pm.

  2nd summit party of 6 left C3 at 7:30 am, (2 Nepali members not in "so good condition" and not necessary to go to lower peak); decended to BC. T Nakamura tried to measure 2 peaks alt. with handy level and found no difference. 3rd summit team left C3 8 am and on peak 10 am; none to East Peak and down to BC.

  BC to C1 rope fixed for crossing icefall; rock climbing from BC to C1. C1 to C2 750m rope fixed at steep snow slope and crevasses (if snowed, might be avalanches). C2 to C3 150m fixed to go around big crevasse. Route was "little difficult" says Tanabe for inexperienced younger members who needed fixed ropes. C3 to West Summit gentle snow slope and "could play football game on top" says Nakamura - gentle up and down slopes to East Summit.


expid: DORJ94301
peakid: DORJ
year: 1994
route1: W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Sachi Takano
sponsor: Gakushuin University Ascent Club Nepal Expedition 1994
ascent1: 9th
bcdate: 1994-09-15
smtdate: 1994-10-13
smttime: 1145
campsites: BC(15/09,4700m),C1(23/09,5400m),C2(04/10,6100m),Smt(13/10)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC north of Urkinmang on Trupaiku Langshisa Glacier
  C1 at Col southeast of point 5611 on German Langtang East map
  C2 at 50m on side of West Ridge (one space on ridge itself).

  Weather very good through climb. Where C2 blue ice and needed fixed rope; took 2 days to fix route above C2. Also fixed between C1 and C2. Summit day Omae could not join ascent from C2 because had problem with contact lens and descended with others to BC on 14 Oct. Summit party left C2 5:00 am and on top 11:45 am; not difficult to top.


expid: KHAT94301
peakid: KHAT
year: 1994
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Peter Ripplinger
sponsor: Heidelberger Khatang Expedition 1994
approach: Lukla->Ghat->Mera La->Lumding Drangka river
bcdate: 1994-10-01
smtdate: 1994-10-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to difficulties of ridge and lack of time and manpower
othersmts: Climbed Kwangde Nup (6035m) NE of Khatang
campsites: BC(01/10,4060m),ABC(03/10,4800m),C1(06/10,5600m),C2(18/10,6350m),xxx(19/10,6400m)
accidents: Nothing serious
achievment: 1st German attempt
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at Lunding Kharka
  ABC at lake Tsho Og southeast end
  C1  on plateau near top of icefall
  C2  on NE Ridge.

  "The ridge was really hard." Icefall not problem but ridge really steep and had only 6 people to work on ridge, fixing ropes (no Sherpas, not all 9 members capable of fixing ropes). Above C2 was mixed loose snow and hard ice with snow mushrooms. 

  After abandoning attempt on Khatang, Kwangde Nup climbed from ABC by Emmert, Reinhard, Wahlhaeuser and Dawa Tamang on 22 Oct and on 23rd by Ripplinger and Leitenstorfer via south side, a glacier with some seracs, not steep or difficult.


expid: KGUR94301
peakid: KGUR
year: 1994
route1: W Face-NW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Pierre Frachon
sponsor: Atalante Kang Guru Expedition
ascent1: 16th
bcdate: 1994-10-25
smtdate: 1994-11-04
smttime: 1300
campsites: BC(25/10,4200m),C1(26/10,5250m),C2(30/10,5800m),Smt(04/11)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  Fixed rope between C1 & C2 rock wall & ice gully. Not a difficult climb technically. Some people might need 600-800m more fixed rope between C2 & summit where slope is steep, about 45-50 degrees. Left C1 at 5 am & were on top at 1:00 pm, stayed half an hour & descended to C2.


expid: CHMN94301
peakid: CHMN
year: 1994
route1: NE Ridge from NE
nation: UK
leaders: Robert Brown
sponsor: British-Nepalese Chamar Expedition
countries: USA
approach: Buri Gandaki->Shar Khola->Dumje->Sharpu Khola
bcdate: 1994-10-27
smtdate: 1994-11-06
termnote: Abandoned at 5400m due to route difficulty, lack of gear and time
campsites: BC(27/10,3800m),C1(31/10,4450m),C2(04/11,4913m),xxx(06/11,5400m)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  BC at snout of Sharpu Glacier east of mountain
  C1 at glacier moraine above 1st icefall
  C2 at glacier between 2nd and 3rd icefalls
  High point at foot of NE Ridge.

  Left Trisuli Bazar 15th, but took long time to BC because of problem of recuiting porters and keeping them moving during [Dasain] holiday period and had to go over 4600m col which many refused to cross. Complicated mountain with numerous ridges and icefalls. Above BC very bad moraine rock rubbish, very difficult to cross. To C2 huge icefall and on glacier below 3rd icefall. Did not make a C3 on NE Ridge because when got to its bottom could see lower part of ridge, which had greatly changed since New Zealanders were there in 1953: 1000-1500 ft steep rock threatened by seracs which were too dangerous or 60 degrees snow and hanging glacier. Did not have time and equipment to tackle this and not enough time left. Very cold at C2 and weather unsettled. Had expected snow slope ridge, but this it was no longer. Mountain cannot be seen from its base and all approaches very difficult. Lots of seracs coming down on south, east and north sides.


expid: LSIS94301
peakid: LSIS
year: 1994
route1: WNW Face up; S Face down
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Vanja Furlan
sponsor: Slovenia 1994 Langshisa Ri Expedition
ascent1: 9th
approach: Dunche
bcdate: 1994-09-27
smtdate: 1994-10-08
smttime: 1200
termdate: 1994-10-11
othersmts: Morimoto
campsites: BC(27/09,4150m),Biv(07/10,5820m),C1(08/10,5700m),Smt(08/10)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC  at Langshisa Kharka
  Biv at WNW Face in ascent
  C1  at plateau at bottom of South Face in descent.

  Furlan thinks correct altitude of summit is 6330m (from his very accurate altimeter). First did 2 acclimatization climbs: (1) on opposite site of valley up Morimoto peak 5260m, where biv there on its ascent face night of 30 Sept and down to BC next day; (2) 2 Oct went to NZ BC to plateau under South Face of Langshisa Ri at 5700m biv night and next day down to BC (1st climb was to see his route, 2nd to see normal route for his descent. Rested till summit push on WNW Face started 7th Oct at 11:30 am entirely alone (as had been on accliamtization climbs also). Face starts at 4700m and 2 very big and dangerous seracs so climbed a rock ridge between these seracs as safest line (top of ridge was 5360m). Left ridge at 5360m (was difficult climbing some parts of this complicated ridge); quite nice climbing on this ridge which had sun therefore warm rock. 2 pitches grade 5, some grade 4, rest grade 3. Reached bergschrund in serac (5820m) 8:30 pm and biv here for the night without sleeping bag (to save weight because had to take 2 ropes for descent of S Face), so cold night. 8th Oct started at 6:30 am up upper part steepest part of route, never less than 60 degrees & place 80 degrees, where had to traverse rock with bad snow on it and very difficult move. Rest of snow in upper part snow excellent (it was frozen - not ice). Reached SW Ridge 110m below top and followed right side of ridge just over to summit at 12 noon. From delicate traverse at about 5920m at 8 am climb was straightforward with no special problem ("beautiful climbing" here). At top quite cold and some wind so stayed 10 minutes briefly by walkie-talkie to doctor below and took photos. Descended ridge to where had left rucksack at 110m below top, then traversed 100m on South Face to normal route and down this route, rapelling almost all the way to the plateau at bottom of S Face which reached 5:20 pm when getting dark and he so tired he decided to biv here. 9th Oct down to bottom of mountain and around to BC (from 8 am to 12 noon). "I'm really happy because everything went just as I planned them and as I hoped they would go; I did everything by myself, found sponsors myself, planned it myself, climbed it alone and I feel very good."

achievment:
  1st alpine-style ascent; 1st solo ascent; 1st ascent of WNW Face; 1st traverse; 1st Slovenian-Yugo attempt


expid: NEMJ94301
peakid: NEMJ
year: 1994
route1: S Buttress-W Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Peter Hudd
sponsor: British Himlung Expedition to Himlung/Nemjung
approach: Marshyangdi->Tharche->then north->Bhute and north->BC
bcdate: 1994-10-13
smtdate: 1994-11-07
termdate: 1994-11-13
termnote: Abandoned at 6370m due to snowfall and especially lack of time
campsites: BC(23/10,4450m),C1(15/10,4800m),C2(21/10,5300m),C3(01/11,6000m),C4(02/11,6200m),xxx(07/11,6370m)
accidents: Slight frostbite by McCarthy
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  BC east of Tilje Peak
  C1 at glacier, northeast of Tilje and southeast of Gyajikang
  C2 at rock buttress
  C3 just below col
  C4 at col between Gyajikang and Nemjung
  High point at West Ridge.

  Were having avalanches every 10 minutes; of 30 days at BC only 4 days of no new snowfall & were even serac avalanches; were caught in spindrift of 1 or 2 avalanches but no damage done except few bruises from stonefall. Because of serac danger did not go up S Face direct but up a moraine glacier to W Ridge & reached col between Gyajikang & Nemjung. Between BC & C1 easy glacier travel but danger from seracs & crevasses; between C1 & C2 90% rock, rock buttress with technical climbing quite hard in places; fixed 750 ft rope here. C3 above buttress on snow slope to col, technically easy but relatively high risk from crevasses & serac. C4 not far beyond C3 & used C3 more as dump than place to stay but not entirely. From C4 went 500-600 vertical feet along W Ridge but bad weather from 2nd November with high winds & much snowfall. On 4th & 7th went above C4 but very exposed ridge, very cold & windy & snowfall continuously & ridge 50 ft cornice & seracs. Would have needed 7-10 days to have finished ridge, using but not fixing ropes abseiling down & didn't have that much time. Had fixed 1000 ft more rope above C2 on rock buttress.

  * This team was on mountain named Nemjung on Annapurna Conservation Area map and Hudd satisfied this same mountain. British attempted 1991 winter and Americans 1987 spring he thinks likely same mountain as Japanese were on in 1980s: his sirdar wandered around and found old Japanese items at a camp in a logical site for an east ridge attempt in 1983 autumn, the time of Japanese claimed 1st ascent of Himlung.


expid: LANG94301
peakid: LANG
year: 1994
route1: SW Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Carles Gonzalez De Agustin
sponsor: Langtang Lirung 1994
ascent1: 14th
bcdate: 1994-09-25
smtdate: 1994-10-07
smttime: 1420
termdate: 1994-10-11
campsites: BC(25/09,4450m),C1(29/09,5200m),C2(03/10,5800m),Biv(04/10,6500m),C3(05/10,6800m),Smt(07/10)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Nepal Trekking & Expeditions
routememo:
  BC at bottom of glacier just northeast of Seng Demsa village
  C2 on West Face of South Ridge.

  A)   Details of approach march from KTM to Base Camp:
       21 Sep KTM to Dhunche.
       22 Sep Dhunche to Ghoretabela
       24 Sep Langtang to Langtang BC

  B)   Date, Altitude and place of the establishment of BC: 25 Sep at 4450m

  C)   Climbing route attempted beyond BC: 
       Base Camp :  4450m  25 Sep
       Camp I    :  5200m  29 Sep
       Camp II   :  5800m  03 Oct
       Bivouac I :  6500m  04 Oct
       Camp III  :  6800m  05 Oct
       Summit    :  7233m  07 Oct

  D)   Climbing details beyond the BC, the name of the members, date and 
       altitude of pitching of higher camps:
       26 Sep rest at Base Camp
       27 Sep established C1 5200m and returned to BC
       28 Sep BC to C1 and returned to BC
       29 Sep BC to C1 5200m and camp
       30 Sep C1 to C2 and returned to C1
       01 Oct C1 to C2 and returned to C1
       02 Oct C1 to C2 and camped at C2
       03 Oct C2 5800 m to Bivouac I 6500m
       04 Oct Bivouac I 6500m to C3 6800m
       05 Oct C3 6800m rest
       06 Oct C3 to 6900m and returned to C3
       07 Oct C3 to Summit at 14:20 hours NST
       
  E)   Details of summit attempt (the name of the members who started for 
       summit which camp, altitude, date and time, oxygen used or not, 
       the route to the summit, the time reached at the summit, the time 
       stayed at the summit, activities of summiters at the summit, 
       activities of summitters at the summit, if they found something at 
       the summit or if they left something at the summit, took
       photograph or not hoisted the flags or not, feeling of the 
       summiters at the summit, weather condition, etc):
       Summit from C3 at 6800m by South Ridge at 2:20 pm NST on 7th
       Oct 1994, and 10 minutes stayed at summit activities of summitters
       at the summit.
       If they found something at the summit or if they left something at 
       the summit: nothing found and nothing left took photograph or not: 
       took photographs hoisted the flags or not: Hoisted flag of
       Catalunya feeling and decided to do expedition to Annapurna I 
       weather condition: very cold, windy and good visibility 

  F)   If expedition team abandons its climbing, the highest point of 
       altitude reached and the date, name of the members who reached that
       height. The details of the reason for abandoning the attempt:
       Abandoned by Mr Joan Portes Costa
       Highest point reached at 5200m
       Abandoned date 03 Oct
       Caused of abandoned Health (Lungs) problem

  H)   Date of leaving base camp and details of return march from base 
       camp to Kathmandu:
       09 Oct C1 to BC to Langtang
       10 Oct Langtang rest
       11 Oct Langtang to Syabrubesi
       12 Oct Syabrubesi to Thade
       13 Oct Thade to Kathmandu
       
  I)   Details of cleaning the litters and garbage on apprach route, in
       the base camp in the higher camps and in climbing route (quantity 
       of garbage burnt, places and quantity of garbage buried place & 
       date):
       74 kgs garbage bring back to Base camp including about 14 kgs 
       garbage left from previous expedition about 20 kgs burried and rest
       burnt 7 pieces snowbar and 5 pieces rock piton bring to Kathmandu 
       which was left by previous expedition.
  J)   Fire woods were used or not during the expedition, if please 
       mention the quantity and place: During expedition fire woods are
       not used
  K)   Other details if any:

  This should be attached along with the report to be submitted after the
  complation of the expedition as pers schedule 5 of the mountaineering regulation.
   
  Financial Details
  1.   Total expenditure of the expedition US$13,850 including airfare
  2.   Amount for the equipments to provided to the liaison officer, 
       Nepalese members and Nepalese workers
       For liaison Officer US$ 1000
       Guide               US$  700
       Cook                US$  500
  3.   Total expenditure within the Kingdom of Nepal US$ 8780 
  4.   Custom and import duties
  5.   Royalty: US$ 2000
  6.   Insurance premium paid in Nepal for Nepalese: US$ 300 
  7.   Agency Service charge: $4280 for full arrangement trip 
  8.   Allowance to Liaison officer, sirdar, altitude guides and basecamp
       worker
       Liaison Officer $ 89.79
       Sirdar          $ 89.79
       Cook            $ 79
       Sherpa          $ 74
  9.   Wages to Local Porter $667
  10.  Fooding expenses in approach and return march $
  11.  Lodging expenses in approach and return march $
  12.  Lodging and fooding in Kathmandu in friends house
  13.  Local purchases (please specify the items broadly)


expid: GAN594301
peakid: GAN5
year: 1994
route1: S Ridge/Spur
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Stane Belak
sponsor: General Himal Expedition 1994 Slovenia to Ganesh V
ascent1: 4th
approach: Trisuli River->Thanjet east of Chilime Khola->Gupchong Khola
bcdate: 1994-10-22
smtdate: 1994-11-13
smttime: 1810
termdate: 1994-11-18
campsites: BC(22/10,4300m),C1(04/10,5200m),C2(01/11,6000m),Smt(13/11)
accidents: Vettorazzi stomach trouble; 2 summiters slight frostbite
achievment: 1st non-Japanese attempt
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC at bottom of SSE Ridge at gear and stone
  C1 at glacier at start of ridge
  C2 at top of serac on SSE Ridge.

  From C1 to top distance much geater than Belak had estimated in spring & then was lot of snow but now bare rock & ice & water falls & lots of snow fall so did not try new route on SW Face, which is impossible in Aut. So climbed ridge which is quite easy to go up & quite safe. Daily snow & for a very little & gave soon. If had come 14 days earlier & thus had 14 more days, could have climbed SW Face & W Ridge. Found much Japanese fixed rope hanging crazily now from 1987 autumn Japanese climb. 4 Nov made summit bid from C2 but in more than 12 hrs reached 6750m at summit rocks; here headlamp batteries failed & had to go back 150m (linear meters) from top at too difficult rock to climb in darkness. 

  Next summit party too old & unable to handle difficulty; reached between C1 & C2 Nov 8-10th Nov. 

  Griljc, Humar & Belak started from BC; 11th to C2; 12th 2:30 am from C2 but very windy, couldn't see where going, very cold feet of Humar & Griljc so back to C2 & Griljc down to BC because chest problem; Humar & Belak stayed in C2 through snowfall all day; 13th left C2 at 7:30 am (too late) climbed ice to upper plateau & small snow ridge; at 11 am on plateau where waist-deep snow which had fallen in previous 10 days, difficult to cross; above hard ice and 100m rock climbing; at start had used last piton on 70-degree steep ice just below 80-100m  to summit; reached top 6:10 pm, descent dangerous with feeble headlamps in very cold [weather]; got to C2 at 10:30 pm: got slightly frostbitten toes. Took all next day to descend to BC over sticky snow which clung to boots. Very long route.


expid: HIME94301
peakid: HIME
year: 1994
route1: S Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Jeong Duk-Chai
sponsor: 1994 Seokang Junior College Himalchuli Expedition
bcdate: 1994-09-04
smtdate: 1994-10-04
termdate: 1994-10-06
termnote: Abandoned at 7450m due to winds
campsites: BC(04/09,4950m),C1(18/09,5450m),C2(22/09,6320m),C3(26/09,6950m),C4(29/09,7250m),xxx(04/10,7450m)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  C3 on South Ridge
  C4 on South Ridge.
  High point at South Ridge.

  Long way to C1: glacial moraine, steep rock; had depot tent between BC and C1. Stayed in C4 29 Sept to 3 Oct, when 3 members went down and on 4 Oct 2 members made route towards top to 7450m and there gave up because of winds which had kept them confined to C4 for days before. Very long route.


expid: CHOY94309
peakid: CHOY
year: 1994
route1: W side from N (Tichy rte)
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Rob Hall
sponsor: New Zealand-American Expedition to Cho Oyu
ascent1: 160
countries: USA
bcdate: 1994-09-18
smtdate: 1994-10-06
termdate: 1994-10-10
campsites: BC(18/09),ABC(21/09,5800m),C1(23/09,6400m),C2(25/09,7100m),TrueSmt(06/10)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Made deposit at C3 on 28th Sept & planned to occupy it later but when weather getting colder & very windy, to avoid a wind-battled C3 never occupied it. Hoped one climb client could make resulting long climb, so 6th Oct 4 members set out for top from C2, 3 on oxygen (Viesturs not), but Jewell turned back at 7500m exhausted while other 2 went on up & reached highest (southern) summit, where saw Everest & Lhotse. Perfect weather till winds turned on like clock at beginning of Oct & then much colder.

  Were very surprised when Japanese Yamanoi descended via normal route.


expid: CHOY94305
peakid: CHOY
year: 1994
route1: W side from S
nation: USA
leaders: Neal Beidleman
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Cho Oyu Expedition 1994
countries: Kazakhstan
bcdate: 1994-09-10
smtdate: 1994-09-22
termdate: 1994-09-22
termnote: Abandoned at 5700m due to Chinese fee demand and threat from Tibetan refugees & their guide
campsites: BC(10/09,5200m),ABC(11/09,5300m),C1(11/09,5700m),xxx(22/09,5700m)
accidents: None
agency: Above the Clouds
routememo:
  BC  at true Karshang
  ABC at Dzasampa
  C1  just before Nangpa La
  High point at Nangpa La.

  Beidleman & Boukreev pitched 2 camps on 11 Sept for clients not realizing threat from guides of people fleeing Tibet & from some of their clients expecting food & shelter from climbers. Expedition clients & Sherpas occasionally occupied 2 higher camps before danger of looting got so bad during night of 17, 18 & 19 Sept that expedition had to be abandoned. Boukreev & Celsi stayed behind hoping still to climb & Spaniards had arrived. Also had problem of some clients fighting each other. Hopes permit for this climb will be available next year for another mtn.

  Celsi - 1 Oct: he went to Nangpa La on 22nd, met Chinese officer who wrote price of $2000 in snow for Celsi to go ahead to climb. He thought about it but decided not, had been to Nangpa La & that enough. Boukreev stayed at BC while Celsi to Nangpa La last time.

  2 Oct (by telephone) - Celsi did cross Nangpa La on invitation from Chinese officier & had lunch with him at his team's ABC north of La in very cordial atmosphere. Officer had thick wad of dollar bills he showed to Celsi to indicate term's strictly cash. Celsi met hall & Viesturs, but they could not supply & cash to him. Officer pointed to Tibetans heading towards La & laughed, not at all concerned about their departure. Celsi & Spaniards not worried about these Tibetans; felt other Americans on USA team were naive, inexperienced in Asia & overreacted, frightened by strange people & perhaps by the mountain.

  Rob Hall: Celsi asked Hall to cash personal cheque for $2000 - who takes cheque book climbing a mountain? Hall refused.


expid: CHOY94302
peakid: CHOY
year: 1994
route1: W side from N (Tichy rte)
nation: Japan
leaders: Kazuo Fukase
sponsor: Nihon University Cho Oyu Expedition 1994
ascent1: 156,159
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1994-08-30
smtdate: 1994-09-29
smttime: 1130
campsites: BC(30/08),ABC(03/09,5450m),C1(10/09,6520m),C2(15/09,7200m),C3(28/09,7700m),Smt(29/09,04/10)
agency: Rolwaling Trek
routememo:
  BC  at road
  ABC at normal site
  C1  same as New Zealand-US.

  Route to C2 already well made and rope fixed by Iman Gurung with French-Japanese. Tried 3 times to reach C2 while Sherpas made C1; finally Japanese slept there 15th Sept. 16th Sept small avalanches hit Korean C2. Japaese never again slept in C2; went down on 16th to ABC while Sherpas moved C2 to one side and on 23rd members occupied this new C2 after 4 members had also acclimatized to 7000m. Sherpas made C3 on 27th but it was first slept in on 28th. 29th 2 members and 2 Sherpas left C3 4:50 am for top. Ang Rita from French expedition had made route above C3 but Japanese fixed 3 more ropes above rock band and reached summit at 11:30 am, started down 12:25 pm very good weather and no wind. Slept in C3 and Sherpas to C2; Imato and Homada to BC 30th Sept. 

  Next summit party of 4 members and 3 Sherpas ABC->C1 on 1 Oct; 4th Oct they left C3 7:30 am; 1 member and 1 Sherpa fast go ahead and on top at 1:10 pm for half hour; on descent met 3 members and 2 Sherpas. 1 member went down with them while 2 members and 2 Sherpas defied leadership orders and continued up although Otsuka turned back 8050m, Tamuna at 8150m. Sasahara and Lhakpa Gyalu on top at 3 pm and Lhakpa Gyalu descended much faster than Sasahara, who lost route C3. After 7 pm C3 asked to supply him with torch and tea, members not strong enough to go up but Lhakpa Gyalu up to top fixed ropes at 7850m could not find Sasahara, returned to C3. Sasahara "lost his mind" and paid no attention to time on summit day and slept that night at 7900m just above and to side of fixed rope's top, he makes small snowhole but no preparation for bivouac, on 5th Sasahara moved slightly and was spotted, but when others reached him he couldn't move. Oxygen brought up from C2 (none in C3) for him. NZ and Tibetan "Sherpas" helped descent; meanwhile Lhakpa Gyalu also needed to be carried to ABC: according to NZ-US team's doctor 12 Oct and confirmed by Imoto, he became lethargic during 5 Oct and developed intestinal pain (due to altitude perhaps) and died 8th Oct below ABC.

  Sherpa Summiters:
    Kunga, Rolwaling, 1960 
    Nawang Dorje, Rolwaling, 2 March 1965, his 1st 8000er
    Chhong Ringe, Rolwaling, 5 March 1964, his 1st 8000er
    Lhakpa Gyalu, Chaurikharka, 1963
      this his only 8000er, but 2nd ascent of Cho Oyu.

  Oxygen:
    Imoto and all Sherpas not at all except by dying Lhakpa Gyalu
      on night of 7th Oct in ABC.
    Hashiguchi in ABC and BC.
    Harada, Tamura, Tabata and Otsuka - sleeping in C3 night before going to summit.
    Sasahara - sleeping in C3 night before summit and on 5th Oct in descent.

accidents:
  Otsuka & Sasahara bad frostbite; Hashiguchi very rapid pulse & did not climb; intestinal clot of Lhakpa Gyalu


expid: CHOY94304
peakid: CHOY
year: 1994
route1: Left of Loretan rte up; W side down
route2: SW Face-Loretan rte up; W side down
nation: Japan
leaders: Taeko Nagao
sponsor: Japan Cho Oyu Expedition 1994
ascent1: 151
ascent2: 152
bcdate: 1994-09-03
smtdate: 1994-09-23
smttime: 1600
campsites: BC(03/09),ABC(05/09,5600m),Smt(23,25/09)
accidents: Slightly frostbitten toes, Nagao and Yamanoi
achievment: New route and 1st woman on Loretan route
agency: None
routememo:
  BC  at road
  ABC at normal ABC.

  Three climbed together on normal route to 7000m to acclimatize, then on 21 Sept from ABC in afternoon to 6000m at bottom of SW Face, made no camp here (3 hrs from ABC), rested and ate, then at 8:30 pm Yamanoi began his solo climb on new route left of Loretan route of 1990 and 2 women began their ascent of Loretan Route. Yamanoi reached 7200m on snow face with some hard ice; here he stayed 4:00-7:00 am to rest and wait for daylight to see way ahead; decided to take couloir of rock and snow to right; made 1st bivouac at 7600m at 4 pm; slept here in tent and 23 Sept 6 am again up tough very, very deep snow to summit at 4 pm (spent 2-3 hrs searching for highest summit, from which he photographed Lhotse and Everest); had reached summit ridge 12 noon. Descended normal route and at 7000m 2nd biv at 9 pm 23 Sept (at normal route C2); reached ABC 6 pm 24 Sept. "Very tired" from this "good mixed route" but had hoped to climb more direct line but it would have meant much, too much, difficult vertical rock climbing. 

  2 women on 21 Sept wasted one day because took wrong couloir to left (one couloir before correct one). This their first experience with night climbing and moonlight  no help went to end of couloir on 22 Sept afternoon to 6700m and bived there; 23 Sept descended in day light and found correct line, biv at 7700m that night. 24 Sept deep snow traverse (to above knee) and snow needed to be packed down by knee and then trod on; so another biv at 8000m little before ridge. 25 Sept to true summit, again through very deep (chest deep for short women, 156 and 165 cm high) snow. On summit 1:30-1:45 pm & down to 7000m (normal C2) for biv and 26 Sept ABC.


expid: CHOY94303
peakid: CHOY
year: 1994
route1: W side 'W Corner'
nation: S Korea
leaders: Um Hong-Gil
sponsor: Cho Oyu and Sishapangma Expedition
ascent1: 154,155
bcdate: 1994-09-02
smtdate: 1994-09-27
termdate: 1994-10-02
othersmts: Attempted Xixabangma
campsites: BC(02/09),ABC(06/09,5800m),C1(08/09,6400m),C2(13/09,6900m),C3(27/09,7400m),Smt(27-28/09)
accidents: Nothing serious
routememo:
  In Sept much snow fall. 16th Sept Park & Ngati ABC to C2 & 27th C2 to summit & return to C3 via normal route. C2's 3 tents destroyed 18th Sept 8 pm by avalanche & 6 members & 2 Sherpas inside tents & takes down 100m; all carried down & slept that night in Japanese C2 which was lower; lost tents, gear, shoes, but no one hurt; had been on summit push. Down to ABC & bought items from French (Salino) who were leaving.
   
  Made cairn of snow blocks at summit 28th Sept & next day Japanese (Imoto) found it - very good weather "no cloud, no fog, no wind."


expid: CHOY94307
peakid: CHOY
year: 1994
route1: W side from N (Tichy rte)
nation: France
leaders: Yves Salino
sponsor: French International Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 153
bcdate: 1994-09-15
smtdate: 1994-09-26
campsites: BC(15/09),ABC(15/09,5700m),C1(19/09,6400m),C2(24/09,7200m),C3(25/09,7600m),TrueSmt(26/09)
accidents: Nothing very serious
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Mountain in very good condition when this team on top: no wind, snow good. But bad snowfall & wind in mid Sept which delayed progress before "window of nice weather" so much acclimatization in camps rather than going down to BC to rest.

  3 members were Salino's clients. Left to himself to decide progress, he would have taken big rest because he had real problem with nose & throat (took antibiotics) but felt he had to continue, forced himself to climb. Joncheres missed summit because of diarrhea at C3.

  Ang Rita not drinking; had strong Sherpa team because director of Peugot in China was to be a member. 2 sons of Ang Rita were on climb, both very strong especially Pasang Janbu who was running at 8000m.


expid: CHOY94306
peakid: CHOY
year: 1994
route1: W side from S
nation: Spain
leaders: Inaki Ocha de Olza
sponsor: Uda Cho Oyu 1994
countries: USA
bcdate: 1994-09-13
smtdate: 1994-09-22
termdate: 1994-09-24
termnote: Abandoned at 5700m due to Chinese fee demand
campsites: BC(13/09,5270m),xxx(22/09,5700m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: In Wilderness (Kunga)
routememo:
  Tried to go to on ABC north of Nangpa La but a Chinese army expedition to climb Cho Oyu arrived at northern ABC that day, 21 Sept; Inaki could see them by binoculars. He retreated to BC. 22nd all Spaniards went to Nangpa La & met & Chinese officers; one had pistol - no fingers on one hand, spoke English & said that anyone with Nepali permit & wanted to climb Cho Oyu must pay $2000/person (but for 7 persons only total $13,000). Spanish said would return to BC and consider payment but didn't need to think since didn't have the money.


expid: CHOY94311
peakid: CHOY
year: 1994
route1: W side from N
nation: France
leaders: Pierre Gay-Perret
sponsor: Thones Himalaya to Cho Oyu
ascent1: 158
bcdate: 1994-09-24
smtdate: 1994-10-02
smttime: 1400
campsites: BC(24/09),ABC(26/09,5700m),C1(30/09,6400m),C2(01/10,7100m),TrueSmt(02/10)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Summiter Bibollet skied down from 7900m to C1 on same day as summit - too windy for him to carry up skis to top so left them at 7900m. Chappaz & sirdar Mingma went with Bibollet to C2 but went down to C1 because both had altitude sickness (Mingma vomiting all night) & went down to C1 leaving no one in C2 on summit day. Bibollet left C2 at 8 am, 2 pm on summit & after 5 mostly in fog (but did see Everest) went down - reached his skies after 30 mins perhaps; ski descent took 1-1/2 hours to C1. 

  After his success two attempts for top but none higher than 7500m also because very cold & tired. All 3 men climbers again tried but again none of them above 7500m.


expid: CHOY94308
peakid: CHOY
year: 1994
route1: Chinese route
nation: Japan
leaders: Takeo Nishikawa
sponsor: Kitami Alpine Club Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Chengdu->Lhasa->BC and return
bcdate: 1994-09-15
smtdate: 1994-10-13
termdate: 1994-10-21
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to strong winds
campsites: BC(15/09,4980m),ABC(18/09,5680m),C3(7500m),xxx(13/10,7500m)
agency: None
routememo:
  According to other teams on the same route at the same time, this team was the last one left when all other left BC to return home. Imoto of another Japanese expedition (from Nishon University) said this team were to make a summit bid on 13th Oct, but others who left BC later said they had not yet done so. On 28th Dec (after trip to Japan) Imoto said expedition sent members to C3 three times but none could move above C3 because of winds.


expid: CHOY94301
peakid: CHOY
year: 1994
route1: W side from N
nation: France
leaders: Michel David
sponsor: French Expedition to Cho Oyu
bcdate: 1994-08-24
smtdate: 1994-09-11
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to excessive snow
campsites: BC(24/08,5720m),C1(26/08,6400m),C2(01/09,6900m0,C3(04/09,7300m),xxx(11/09,7300m)
agency: Mandala Trekking
routememo:
  From 5 to 11th Sept acclimatization, carrying tents, food, fixed ropes, gear.

  It was very good leadership from Iman Gurung and was his decision to abandon. When they left, other expeditions were coming. Felt they were too early. Got wrong information from French tour operator. Above C3 there was 4 feet fresh snow.

accidents:
  De Metz acute mountain sickness & pneumonia (edema) at BC requiring emergency return to Lhasa and flight to France


expid: CHOY94310
peakid: CHOY
year: 1994
route1: W side from N (Tichy rte)
nation: China
leaders: Samdrup
sponsor: China-Tibet Expedition to 14 Mountains of 8000m
ascent1: 157
bcdate: 1994-09-17
smtdate: 1994-09-30
smttime: 0905
campsites: BC(17/09,5200m),ABC(22/09,5800m),C1(23/09,6400m),C2(24/09,7200m),C3(29/09,7500m),Smt(30/09)
accidents: Nothing
routememo:
  9 climbers & leader (to C2) & doctor at ABC and two porters whom they called coolies - climbed very fast.


expid: AMAD94309
peakid: AMAD
year: 1994
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Jacques Couton
sponsor: Get High Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Italy, Switzerland
bcdate: 1994-10-30
smtdate: 1994-11-07
termdate: 1994-11-11
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(30/10,4600m),C1(03/11,5800m),C2(05/11,6040m),C3(07/11,6400m),xxx(07/11,6400m)
accidents: Umbauer blind in one eye at C1 from altitude (Gamov bag used but not helped)
agency: Chuldim Sherpa
routememo:
  BC at normal site above Mingbo
  C1 on SW Ridge
  C2 on SW Ridge
  High point at C3.

  8th Nov to BC because of snowfall (enough to make difficulty on fixed ropes) & wind and very cold (-30 degrees) so didn't want frozen fingers. Mtn always cloudy: mornings clear "like a London smog" so climb finished 8th Nov & all in BC 10 Nov.

  When leader Couton had to leave climb with Umbauer, leader was Norbu.

  Ama Dablam is a very technical mountain; "we were all guides (Umbauer is in training to be guide) & still we did not succeed; of course the weather"; perhaps came a bit too late in the season.


expid: AMAD94306
peakid: AMAD
year: 1994
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Takao Miyashita
sponsor: Club La Neige Ama dablam Expedition
ascent1: 154
bcdate: 1994-10-19
smtdate: 1994-10-27
smttime: 1139
othersmts: Climbed Pokalde (16 Oct by Oizumi)
campsites: BC(19/10,4600m),C1(21/10,5800m),C2(26/10,6400m),Smt(27/10)
accidents: None
agency: Above the Clouds
routememo:
  BC at normal site near lake Mingbo
  C1 on SW Ridge
  C2 on SW Ridge.

  Goto not to summit but only C1 because "not strong." Route easy.


expid: AMAD94307
peakid: AMAD
year: 1994
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Rene Tomio
sponsor: Ama Dablam 1994
ascent1: 152
bcdate: 1994-10-21
smtdate: 1994-10-26
termdate: 1994-10-29
campsites: BC(21/10,4700m),C1(24/10,5800m),C2(25/10,6400m),Smt(26/10)
achievment: 1st father & son together to summit
agency: Tshering Sherpa Trekking
routememo:
  Had to spend four hours building site for C1; had very good relations with Pawlowski, who did most of rope fixing on route. From summit return to C2 to be sure to make further descent safely & went to BC on 27th. "Not so easy" this mountain.

  No Sherpas above BC for climbing, but 5 to clear C1.


expid: AMAD94304
peakid: AMAD
year: 1994
route1: NW Ridge (to 5790m )
route2: N Face of W Col (to 5790m) (Tsuro Ri)
nation: USA
leaders: Edward Webster
sponsor: 1994 Ama Dablam NW Ridge Expedition
countries: Canada, Sweden
bcdate: 1994-10-07
smtdate: 1994-10-23
termdate: 1994-11-07
termnote: Abandoned at 5790m due to deep snow and loose rocks
othersmts: Chhukung Ri
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
campsites:
  BC(07/10,4700m),Biv1(20/10,5380m),Biv2(21/10,5555m),Biv3(22/10,5740m),xxx(23/10,5790m);Biv(07/11,5750m)

routememo:
  BC  at north edge of large lake of Dingboche
  Biv on NW Ridge
  Biv on NW Ridge
  Biv on NW Ridge
  Biv on North Face of Tsuro Ri under West Col
  High point at NW Ridge.

  1st acclimatized on Chhukung Ri and on Ama Dablam (and had bad throats). Reached 5790m on NW Ridge on 23 Oct and then stopped by danger from loose blocks, deep powder snow and route-finding differences of opinion, whether to continue up ridge or over onto right hard face, so down to BC same day.

  7 Nov started on new route after trip to Namche to replace gear left on 1st route in 18 rappels. Second route was much more dangerous from big seracs fall threatening but easier climb on North Face of Tsuro Ri under the West Col. Got to 5750m on 7 Nov, slept 5700m here. That afternoon began to snow and very cold  on North Face with no direct sun. On 8th down to BC and climb over. Came week or two too late. "Wonderful reconnaissance of Ama Dablam, fairly expensive though." Would like to try again, so don't want route possibilities publicized.


expid: AMAD94303
peakid: AMAD
year: 1994
route1: N Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hidehiko Tajiri
sponsor: Tokyo Young Climbers Club Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 149,150
bcdate: 1994-09-26
smtdate: 1994-10-19
campsites: BC(26/09,5030m),ABC(27/09,5369m),C1(28/09,5600m),C2(04/10,6000m),C3(24/10,6450m),Smt(19,21/10)
accidents: Yanigisawa's face swelled when on top; but OK now
agency: Trans Himalayan Trekking (THT)
routememo:
  BC  just above Ama Dablam Glacier on west side of small North-South Ridge
  ABC at col north of ABC
  C1  on North Ridge just above meeting of ridge with South Spur
  C3  on North Ridge.

  Near top 3m snow face of 90 degrees was very difficult. Knife ridge above C2 bad snow with mushrooms.


expid: AMAD94308
peakid: AMAD
year: 1994
route1: S Ridge up; SW Ridge down
nation: Australia
leaders: Armando Corvini
sponsor: Australian Ama Dablam SE Ridge Expedition Post-Monsoon 1994
ascent1: 157,158
countries: UK, USA
bcdate: 1994-10-21
smtdate: 1994-11-08
othersmts: Lobuche East
accidents: Corvini, Burns, Smith and Willard frostbitten fingers; also 3 with frozen toes
agency: Himalayan Hill Treks
campsites:
  BC(21/10,5050m),C1(26/10,5600m),Biv1(28/10,5900m),Biv2(30/10,6200m),Biv3(31/10,6300m),Biv4(07/11,6500m),Smt(08,10/11)

routememo:
  BC  east of South Ridge, due west of Mingbo La
  C1  on South Ridge
  Biv on South Ridge
  Biv on South Ridge
  Biv in cave on South Ridge
  Biv on SW Ridge where South and SW Ridge meet.

  "That was a desperate day" when C3 cave was occupied with sugar snow and its instability but kept going: "don't give up that easily" says Smith. All down to BC to rest and 3 days of snowfall. Now because 2 groups when climb resumed: should have been 3 groups made biv in same place on way to top. Immediately above camp at 6300m traversed diagonally off to SW Ridge and normal route because here snow ridge peters out rocks wall. 200m vertically from start of traverse to its ending at SW Ridge, when made biv inside one of series of crevasses. 2nd group started one day behind 1st group. 1st started ascent on 3 Nov, moved up steadily through camps, biv on 7th, summit on 8th, stopped at normal C4 at 6400m in biv there and back to BC on 9th. 2nd group left BC on 4th for 5600m that night; 5th Nov made biv just below 5900m; 6th at 6200m, 7th at 6300m, 8th slept at 600m, 9th at 6500m; 10th on summit (slower than 1st team because of more frequent snowfall) and back to 6500m only because of snow falling even at midday when on top; 11th at 6400m in different sites, 12th and 13th different places with Smith staying night at normal C1 and arrived BC 14th, last man back, fighting for ropes buried in frozen snow and should not have fixed any rope: waste of time but had been told that was way to do it and fixed on what way actually easiest section. Was constantly bad climbing from 5900m because of sugar snow, unconsolidated snow plus same rock ice; but descent was nightmare for 2nd group for at least 48 hrs.

  All camps above 5600m were bivouacs in the sense that no tents left in place. Each member had a biv sack and sometimes member of same team biv apart, sometimes one team couldn't find other's biv ledge; 2nd team had extra biv on ascent and thus lost a day. 

  Smith says they should have climbed in 3 teams of 2 climbers each so as to avoid waiting around on 3 more teams.

  17 Nov 1994 - French leader Couton: Australians seemed "not perfectly organized"; they descended normal route and if French themselves had summit, they would have brought down all fixed ropes (Smith on 18 Nov - Australians had agreement with British to leave British ropes - they're plenty of ropes left). Australians arrived at C2 at 4 pm (this must have been 1st team) no room for than on C2's narrow ledge. French told them to go down to C1, where empty French tents were available for them. Australians waited at C2 2 hours, descended in dark in 6 more hours.

  18 Nov 1994 - Brian Whyte, Australians trekking agent: Australians did not get along with each other and had numerous disputes. Sirdar had to go up to C2 to bring Corvini down in his badly frostbitten condition.

  Dec 1994 - Corvini in hospital for "several months" for plastic surgery on fingers and toes with major losses, says trekking agent.


expid: CHOL94302
peakid: CHOL
year: 1994
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Hans-Joerg Gutzler
sponsor: Berlin Jubilee Expedition 1994 Cholatse-Tawache
bcdate: 1994-10-26
smtdate: 1994-11-10
termdate: 1994-11-15
termnote: Abandoned at 5750m due to weather
campsites: BC(26/10,4730m),C1(09/11,5140m),xxx(10/11,5750m)
agency: Khumbu Himalayan Trekking
routememo:
  BC halfway between Na and summit on Schneider map
  C1 just below SW Ridge
  High point at SW Ridge.

  Technically difficult part of climb: 1st part of the icefall & then short steep ice wall & took time to find safest way through icefall. At first while working on icefall route, put 2 tents on plateau at 5450m to right of icefall; left them there for storing gear but no longer slept there; icefall from 5050m to 5300m to 5700m also just below SW Ridge, farther along from C1; very deep snow on ice wall & same snow avalanches from new snowfall every afternoon; fixed 200m rope on wall also. Then 2 members tried to make biv but at 5750m got "some frozen toes" so descended to BC. 2 others tried to go high but got no higher than first pair; made biv but snowfall collapsed their biv sack used as shelter above them & they had to go down to C1; stayed 2 nights & then down to BC on 12th because very cold: stove wouldn't work in cold morning & Meier's toes freezing. Now not enough time to try again & anyway weather colder & more snowfall although John still hoped to make quick ascent despite slight frostbite. Abandoned this hope on 15th. Came too late in season, but want to try again in '96.

accidents:
  4 highest climbers slightly frostbitten toes; Burchard, Gutzler and Hoffman slight problem with altitude sickness


expid: AMAD94301
peakid: AMAD
year: 1994
route1: SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Son Moon-Kyu
sponsor: 1994 Korean Himalaya Exped to Ama Dablam, Tawache & Cholatse
ascent1: 145
bcdate: 1994-08-30
smtdate: 1994-09-10
termdate: 1994-09-15
othersmts: Climbed Cholatse (CHOL-943-01) and Tawoche (TAWO-943-01)
campsites: BC(30/08,4500m),C1(01/09,5200m),C2(04/09,5700m),Smt(10/09)
accidents: 1 member slight injury to leg on Cholatse
agency: Khumbu Himalayan Trekking
routememo:
  Up on arrival in Khumbu by helicopter to Shyangboche 5 Koreans (including Ro at BC only and Sarki Nurbu Lama) to Ama Dablam BC while 5 Koreans went to Tawoche BC. 

  Ama Dablam climbed by SW Ridge by 2 Koreans only (other 2 Koreans sick and Sarki not interested in for him a second ascent). On 10th Sept on Ama Dablam top were Kim Young-Jeoung and Park Bung-Gil; Kim Young-Su and Ro Im-Jun to C1 only. 

  In spare time 5 other Koreans, Ila Tashi and Lhakpa Gyalu Sherpa to Tawoche and must have climbed SE Face as planned with summit reached on 9th Sept by 3 members, Lee Seung-Bok, Lim Sam-Gyun and Gang Hee-Chang.  

  To Cholatse went 3 Tawoche Koreans (none from Ama Dablam) and Sarki Nurbu Lama: Lee, Lim (who stayed at Cholatse BC only) and Kim Young-Su who did not reach summit. Climbed SW Ridge of Cholatse.

  * 2 Tawoche members went home as soon as that climb finished. Cholatse BC left on 16th Sept and met Ama Dablam people at Namche one day after they had gotten there (16th Sept).

  Cholatse summiters could not descend to C2 same day (very deep snow), but spent night in crevasse. Very difficult climb; very deep snow on Ama Dablam ascent also.


expid: TAWO94301
peakid: TAWO
year: 1994
route1: SE Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Son Moon-Kyu
sponsor: 1994 Korean Himalaya Exped to Ama Dablam, Tawache & Cholatse
ascent1: 10th
bcdate: 1994-08-31
smtdate: 1994-09-09
termdate: 1994-09-16
othersmts: Climbed Cholatse (CHOL-943-01) and Ama Dablam (AMAD-943-01)
campsites: BC(31/08,5000m),C1(01/09,5400m),C2(05/09,5900m),Smt(09/09)
agency: Khumbu Himalayan Trekking
primid: AMAD94301
routememo:
  Up on arrival in Khumbu by helicopter to Shyangboche 5 Koreans (including Ro at BC only and Sarki Nurbu Lama) to Ama Dablam BC while 5 Koreans went to Tawoche BC. 

  Ama Dablam climbed by SW Ridge by 2 Koreans only (other 2 Koreans sick and Sarki not interested in for him a second ascent). On 10th Sept on Ama Dablam top were Kim Young-Jeoung and Park Bung-Gil; Kim Young-Su and Ro Im-Jun to C1 only. 

  In spare time 5 other Koreans, Ila Tashi and Lhakpa Gyalu Sherpa to Tawoche and must have climbed SE Face as planned with summit reached on 9th Sept by 3 members, Lee Seung-Bok, Lim Sam-Gyun and Gang Hee-Chang.  

  To Cholatse went 3 Tawoche Koreans (none from Ama Dablam) and Sarki Nurbu Lama: Lee, Lim (who stayed at Cholatse BC only) and Kim Young-Su who did not reach summit. Climbed SW Ridge of Cholatse.

  * 2 Tawoche members went home as soon as that climb finished. Cholatse BC left on 16th Sept and met Ama Dablam people at Namche one day after they had gotten there (16th Sept).


expid: CHOL94301
peakid: CHOL
year: 1994
route1: SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Son Moon-Kyu
sponsor: 1994 Korean Himalaya Exped to Ama Dablam, Tawache & Cholatse
ascent1: 12th
bcdate: 1994-09-12
smtdate: 1994-09-15
termdate: 1994-09-16
othersmts: Climbed Ama Dablam (AMAD-943-01) and Tawoche (TAWO-943-01)
campsites: BC(12/09,5000m),C1(13/09,5600m),C2(14/09,6000m),Smt(15/09)
accidents: 1 member slight injury to leg on Cholatse
agency: Khumbu Himalayan Trekking
primid: AMAD94301
routememo:
  Up on arrival in Khumbu by helicopter to Shyangboche 5 Koreans (including Ro at BC only and Sarki Nurbu Lama) to Ama Dablam BC while 5 Koreans went to Tawoche BC. 

  Ama Dablam climbed by SW Ridge by 2 Koreans only (other 2 Koreans sick and Sarki not interested in for him a second ascent). On 10th Sept on Ama Dablam top were Kim Young-Jeoung and Park Bung-Gil; Kim Young-Su and Ro Im-Jun to C1 only. 

  At same time 5 other Koreans, an Italian and Lhakpa Gyalu Sherpa to Tawoche and must have climbed SE Face as planned with summit reached on 9th Sept by 3 members, Lee Seung-Bok, Lim Sam-Gyun and Gang Hee-Chang.  

  To Cholatse went 3 Tawoche Koreans (none from Ama Dablam) and Sarki Nurbu Lama: Lee, Lim (who stayed at Cholatse BC only) and Kim Young-Su who did not reach summit. Climbed SW Ridge of Cholatse.

  * 2 Tawoche members went home as soon as that climb finished. Cholatse BC left on 16 Sept and met Ama Dablam people at Namche one day after they had gotten there (16 Sept).

  Cholatse summiters could not descend to C2 same day (very deep snow), same night but spent night in crevasse. Very difficult climb; very deep snow on Ama Dablam ascent also.


expid: LHOT94303
peakid: LHOT
year: 1994
route1: W Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Agostino Da Polenza
sponsor: Ronast Ev-K-2-CNR Lhotse S Col Expedition
ascent1: 29th disputed
bcdate: 1994-09-22
smtdate: 1994-10-11
smttime: 1200
campsites: BC(22/09,5350m),C1(26/09,6000m),C2(05/10,6400m),C3(7100m),xxx(11/10,8400m)
accidents: Moro frostnipped finger, toes & nose
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Only 2 members & 1 Sherpa were engaged in attempting to reach Lhotse summit: all others involved only in research effort. Moro & Mondinelli made summit push from C2 which they left at 10:00 pm on the 10th of Oct. On their way up they found Pawlowski in small tent at 7600m; they joined him in tent & than all 3 left his tent at 6 am & reached top at 12 noon. Chamoux on top 3 hours later.

  None of Lhotse S Col team climbed to Col. 6500m was maximum altitude reached by any of them except Lhotse climbers Moro, Mondinelli & 1 Sherpa who turned back.

  10 May 95 - Pawlowski says that he and the two Italians climbed fairly close together to rock in couloir about 100-150m below summit. Italians said route above difficult and there was strong wind, so they descended. Pawlowski paused for five minutes, then decided to see how high he could reach, found couloir not so difficult and went to summit. Moro's tale of being on summit waiting to photograph others coming up to him is not correct.

  28 March 95 - Chamoux says he does not know how high Italians reached but it was not the summit.

  22 May 95 - Marco Bianchi (Everest North) says team was under enormous pressure to summit Lhotse since it was financed by CNR (Italian research organization) and its program of high altitude research did not take place.


expid: LHOT94304
peakid: LHOT
year: 1994
route1: W Face
nation: France
leaders: Benoit Chamoux
sponsor: Lhotse 1994 Expedition
ascent1: 29th w/Pol
countries: Italy
bcdate: 1994-09-22
smtdate: 1994-10-11
smttime: 1400
campsites: BC(22/09,5350m),C1(26/09,6465m),C2(01/10,7100m),Smt(11/10)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  C1 deposit only
  C2 at moraine in Cwm
  C3 on West Face.

  C3 very low because seracs moving so for protection had to keep it low. Slept twice in C3: 1 and 7th Oct and 10th left BC at 8:00 am, arrived top 2:00 pm on 11th with few hours rest in C2 and 1 hour rest in C3. Very cold and had to protect nose with hand from cold wind. Moro to top with Chamoux from C2; also from C2 was Mondinelli of scientific expedition (Da Polenza) and Pawlowski from his C4 above yellow band (7600m)

  Wagnon tried for summit on 13th but stopped at 7600m by wind.

  No one from this team went to S Col while this team was climbing Lhotse.

  * Moro said 21 Oct 1994 that Moro, Mondinelli and Pawlowski went to summit together at 12:00 noon, Chamoux at 3:00 pm but Chamoux said 18th Jan 1995 the 2 Italians stopped below summit and Pawlowski said 10 May 1995 same thing.


expid: LHOT94302
peakid: LHOT
year: 1994
route1: W Face
nation: Poland
leaders: Ryszard Pawlowski
sponsor: Polish International Lhotse Expedition
ascent1: 29th w/Fra
countries: Canada, Germany, UK
bcdate: 1994-09-04
smtdate: 1994-10-11
smttime: 1330
othersmts: Climbed Ama Dablam (AMAD-943-05) (by Pawlowski)
campsites: BC(04/09,5300m),C1(11/09,6000m),C2(18/09,6400m),C3(26/09,7200m),C4(29/09,7700m),Smt(11/10)
accidents: Lakes & McNab frostbite
agency: Himalayan Excursions
routememo:
  Lakes and McNab started from C4 10:00 pm 30 Sept for top with Loretan and Troillet, but weather bad (wind) and snow river down couloir; Swiss much faster and went on to summit on 1 Oct while McNab turned back 100m below because frostbitten toes and fingers and Lakes to 7900m and then tired and descended.

  2nd summit bid by only Pawlowski and Schleypen, who spent 3 nights in C2 and C3; Pawlowski to C4 on 10th 5:30 am left C4 (Chamoux and 2 Italians joined him at C4 and went to top same day - Chamoux left at 4:30 am) with 2 Italians and passed Chamoux and arrived at top 1:30 pm (Chamoux at 2 pm) after starting out with Lakes and McNab.

  Moro and Mondinelli stopped below summit.


expid: PUMO94310
peakid: PUMO
year: 1994
route1: W Ridge from SW
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Aldo Verzaroli
sponsor: Swiss Pumori Expedition 1994
bcdate: 1994-11-10
smtdate: 1994-11-17
termdate: 1994-11-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to difficulty of route, lack of time and rope
campsites: BC(10/11,5300m),C1(14/11,5900m),xxx(17/11,6200m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC near point 5295 on NGS map west of Kalapattar (between the two)
  High point at right side of small North-South ridge coming from Pumori West Ridge.

  First trekked in Langtang with a group he led. This had originally been planned for after Pumori climb in Sept-Oct, but he was not fit enough for climb then, so put scheduled trek first and followed it with Pumori attempt. Tried three times to reach W Ridge (or NW Ridge), but "the problem was the places below it" on mountain's west side with very big crevasse. 1st on 11th Nov tried to cross just under West Face, reached 5600m and then not possible to cross crevasse and very dangerous serac on right side of glacier, too dangerous alone. 2nd was 12 Nov Verzaroli and climbing cook, Tirtha Tamang (3 times 8000ers) tried to cross middle of glaciers, crossed many very small faces up and down and after 5 hours at 5800m abandoned this and again back to BC. 3rd on 14th Nov Verzaroli and Tamang made a camp at beginning of small ridge. Stopped at 6180m with bad weather (snowfall and wind in afternoon) so put equipment there and down to BC. 17th Verzaroli and Tamang returned to equipment and crossed 150m on rock wall but this took 2 hours carrying 20 kg each with tent. Now at 6200m decided to stop: would have to cross more glacier, need fixed ropes for descent. Problem is to reach col and after that not so difficult but not possible to solo this route.


expid: NUPT94301
peakid: NUPT
year: 1994
route1: Central Pillar of S Face
nation: France
leaders: Michel Fauquet
sponsor: ENSA-FFME Nuptse Expedition
bcdate: 1994-09-22
smtdate: 1994-10-16
termdate: 1994-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to strong winds
campsites: BC(22/09,5200m),Dep(5600m),Biv1(14/10,6400m),Biv2(15/10,7000m),Biv3(17/10,6200m),xxx(16/10,7500m)
accidents: Vionnet-Fuasset fell and twisted his back; nothing else serious
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at west side of Lhotse Nuptse Glacier east of Chhukung Peak
  Deposit on pillar
  Biv 1 on pillar (US 1986 team's high point)
  Biv 2 at ice on glacier
  Biv 3 on pillar (in descent)
  High point at 100m below East Summit.

  Made deposit of gear at 5600m. Put fixed rope from deposit in various sections to 6200m, sometimes taking 2-3 days to do the job and bivouacing on pillar. Last rest was 10th Oct, started summit push from BC 14th Oct by Fauquet and Moulin at 5 am and reached 6400m (at about where Jeff Lowe and Mark Twight stopped in ice cave at 7000m on glacier). On 16th left all gear in cave and tried to go directly to top but stoped at 7500m by "very violent wind." Even at morning from just above cave could not stand many times and at end "it was terrible" where we were exposed to wind and descended to cave for night. 17th down to 6200m for a biv and 18th to BC clearing ropes.

  Route was Central Pillar of S Face directly N of Lhotse Nuptse Glacier.

  Route was in 3 parts.
  1. pillar to 1st biv (very steep, 800-900 some overhang and many difficult 
     overhanging cornices, lot of deep snow on rock).
  2. snow and ice slopes 45-60 degrees
  3. very bad loose rock, unprotected rock with very thin ice on top, 60-80 degrees.

  * High point was 300m below Nuptse East, a virgin peak.


expid: LHOT94301
peakid: LHOT
year: 1994
route1: W Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Erhard Loretan
sponsor: Swiss Lhotse Expedition
ascent1: 28th
bcdate: 1994-08-26
smtdate: 1994-10-01
smttime: 0910
campsites: BC(26/08,5300m),Biv1(29/09,6400m),Biv2(30/09,8200m),Smt(01/10)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Biv in West Cwm.

  After arrived at BC climbed small peak SW of Nuptse, then to Dingboche. Snow not good: too warm. Then went into Cwm 17th Sept to make deposit. 22 Sept climbed Khumbutse shoulder. 23 Sept to 8000m on Lhotse to make deposit (just above yellow band) and back to BC at 9 pm 24th Sept. Rested. 29th Sept 5 pm started summit push; reached C2 of French 8:30 pm, rested in French tent, 30th Sept 4 am climbed to 8000m deposit at 2 pm; took supplies to snow cave to wait for daylight; 6 am 2 Swiss & McNab up again & 8 am, 100m below summit, McNab turned back (McNab had spent 2 nights at 8000m before Swiss came up & joined him). 9:10 am Loretan & Troillet reached Lhotse summit; was very cold and windy. Because of snow and wind, did not take equipment for a traverse. Spring is better for traverse when snow is harder, but ascent of Lhotse more difficult because of hard ice on face. Is possible to make traverse; there is a route. Should take 2 Sherpas to Lhotse to carry equipment there. From Dingboche saw there are good South Face exit routes "if necessary maybe better 3 members and 2 Sherpas: for 3 members same equipment as for 2." "It's one of the most [difficult] traverses you can do now." Loretan would like to do it, but Troillet now more interested in sailing so Loretan will have to find other teammates.


expid: PUMO94304
peakid: PUMO
year: 1994
route1: SE Ridge/Face-E Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Gerhard Schmatz
sponsor: Pumori Expedition
ascent1: 92nd,94th
bcdate: 1994-09-26
smtdate: 1994-10-06
campsites: BC(26/09,5300m),C1(29/09,5740m),C2(01/10,6200m),Biv(06/10,6550m),Smt(06-07/10)
accidents: Schmatz infected nose
achievment: 1st Mexican success
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC  at right of lake
  Biv at col of East Ridge.

  3 members reached C2 but Schmatz got bad infection in his nose and descended. Engl and Zembsch left C2 together but Engl went onto summit on 6th Oct while Zembach bivouaced at col of East Ridge where others had a camp and continued onto top next day. Both climbed via col.


expid: PUMO94306
peakid: PUMO
year: 1994
route1: SE Ridge/Face-E Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Hans Eitel
sponsor: International Mountain Climbing (IMC) Pumori Expedition 1994
ascent1: 93rd,95th
countries: Italy, Mexico, Switzerland
bcdate: 1994-09-27
smtdate: 1994-10-07
termdate: 1994-10-15
campsites: BC(27/09,5316m),Dep(29/09,5700m),C1(29/09,6130m),C2(06/10,6455m),Smt(07,10/10)
accidents: Nothing serious
achievment: 1st Mexican success
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at south end of large lake
  C1 on top of SE Rib
  C2 at 20m below col on East Ridge.

  12 Oct Scharl planned summit from C1 but had throat infection and went down from C1 instead and then climb finished. Only 7 members actually did any climbing, 5 others made trek only to deposit camp and 1 never got to BC. Climb from C2 not easy. 60% ice on seracs and fixed 100m rope here. Also fixed all the way from deposit to C1 and other sections above.


expid: PUMO94301
peakid: PUMO
year: 1994
route1: SE Ridge-E Ridge
nation: Czechoslovakia
leaders: Radek Kubik
sponsor: Czech Himalaya Expedition 1994 to Pumori
ascent1: 90th
bcdate: 1994-09-21
smtdate: 1994-10-04
termdate: 1994-10-08
campsites: BC(21/09,5300m),C1(01/10,6100m),C2(03/10,6500m),Smt(04/10)
accidents: Nothing
achievment: 1st Czech attempt
agency: In Wilderness (Kunga)
routememo:
  C1 at SE Ridge's top
  C2 on East Ridge.

  Some difficult 85-degree ice between C1 and C2 and deep snow in places with some snow avalanching and falling ice seracs.


expid: PUMO94302
peakid: PUMO
year: 1994
route1: SE Ridge-E Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Chris Comerie
sponsor: British Pumori Expedition
ascent1: 89th,91st
bcdate: 1994-09-21
smtdate: 1994-10-04
smttime: 1205
termdate: 1994-10-09
campsites: BC(21/09,5300m),ABC(28/09,5725m),C1(29/09,6200m),Biv(03/10,6500m),Smt(04-05/10)
accidents: 2 frostnip and 1 altitude sickness
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  ABC at bottom of ridge
  C1  at top of ridge
  Biv col of east ridge (just below it).

  C2 was biv with no tent, 2 in crevasse. From this biv Cleary and Bryan went to top at 12:05 and 12:20 pm respectively and on 5th other 2 climbing members started up but Albert very sick (alt sickness apparently) and returned to biv and still ill, Albert descended with previous day's summiters escorting him as far as C1 and to BC with Czechs; his toes started freezing at biv. Comerie went to summit alone at 1:15 pm and slept at biv. Cleared mountain of equipment on 8th.

  More technical than expected. Summit ridge had changed from earlier years and so had icefall.


expid: PUMO94305
peakid: PUMO
year: 1994
route1: S Ridge from SW
nation: Japan
leaders: Ayumi Nozawai
sponsor: Barbarian Club Pumori Expedition 1994
ascent1: 96th
bcdate: 1994-09-26
smtdate: 1994-10-21
campsites: BC(26/09,5300m),C1(29/09,5600m),C2(03/10,6200m),C3(20/10,6700m),Smt(21/10)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC just south-southeast of point 5295m on National Geographic map
  C1 at glacier below point 6186 and east of point 5628m
  C2 at junction of SW Ridge and South Ridge
  C3 at snow face on east side of South Ridge.

  Soft snow made climb difficult. Fixed rope below C3 on 2 ridges: one above C1's glacier on SW Ridge, then on S Ridge.


expid: PUMO94307
peakid: PUMO
year: 1994
route1: S Ridge from SE
nation: Australia
leaders: Grant Dixon
sponsor: Australian Pumori Expedition 1994
ascent1: 97th
countries: New Zealand, UK
bcdate: 1994-09-28
smtdate: 1994-10-21
smttime: 1200
campsites: BC(28/09,5330m),ABC(03/10,5500m),C1(09/10,6180m),C2(20/10,6450m),Smt(21/10)
accidents: Nothing serious
achievment: 1st NZer atop Pumori
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
routememo:
  BC  at 50m from crowded normal site
  ABC at glacier, below South Ridge, on its east side
  C1  at junction of South and SE Ridge
  C2  at South Ridge - bived in on 19th Oct.
   
  Australians got up 6700m on 19th Oct and decided ridge wouldn't go and went down to biv at 6450m. Next summit party of 3 men. Aussies decided to make their own try. Morton turned back on 20th not feeling well, thus enabling Findlay and Barnes to make camp at site too small for 3-man camp. Summiters left low C2 at 4 am and were on summit at 12:00 and 12:15 noon. Used Japanese ropes and put in 100m of ropes above theirs. Series of sharp arretes just below summit.


expid: PUMO94309
peakid: PUMO
year: 1994
route1: SE Ridge/Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Rudolf Berni
sponsor: Swiss Pumori Expedition 1994
bcdate: 1994-10-09
smtdate: 1994-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to avalanche danger
campsites: BC(09/10,5300m),C1(16/10,6100m),xxx(20/10,6400m)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Dhaulagiri Trek House
routememo:
  BC south-southeast end of big Lake
  C1 near top of SE Ridge
  High point on SE Face below East Ridge.

  20 Oct summit attempt from C1 by 2 members, reached 6400m & turned back tired; had started late so would have to sleep again in C1 on descent but C1 dangerously threatened by seracs so abandoned climb. Started 6 am & reached 6400m 8:30 am with expected arrival at summit at 4 pm. Climb now finished. There was a big avalanche down west side of SE Ridge from seracs high above.


expid: PUMO94308
peakid: PUMO
year: 1994
route1: SE Ridge/Face-E Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Josef Redolfi
sponsor: Tirol Pumori Expedition 1994
bcdate: 1994-10-06
smtdate: 1994-10-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6650m due to member's health not very good
campsites: BC(06/10,5200m),C1(09/10,5700m),C2(11/10,6100m),xxx(19/10,6650m)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC just before Kalapattar's SE Ridge, 1/2 hours below (normal site)
  C1 on SE Ridge
  C2 at snow field above SE Ridge
  High point on East Ridge.

  BC away from sand of lake and had good water. Walch had stomach and throat problems when they were trying for summit on 19th Oct and had just reached E Ridge and all turned back. Other 2 members also "not so good" health. No other attempt because everyone had head colds and bronchitis. Many ice avalanches but did no damage to this team. Technically not difficult.


expid: PUMO94303
peakid: PUMO
year: 1994
route1: E Ridge from S
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Ki-Hwan
sponsor: Korean Alpine Federation in America 1994 Mt. Pumori Expedition
countries: Canada, USA
bcdate: 1994-09-21
smtdate: 1994-10-04
termdate: 1994-10-06
termnote: Abandoned at 6550m due to lack of rope & hardware
campsites: BC(21/09,5330m),ABC(22/09,5500m),C1(27/09,5750m),C2(01/10,5995m),C3(02/10,6250m),xxx(04/10,6550m)
accidents: Yu altitude sickness and left; nothing else
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC  at 2 hours east of normal BC 
  ABC at moraine
  C1  on face of East Ridge
  C2  on face of East Ridge
  C3  on East Ridge between 6375m and 6126m
  High point at East Ridge.

  C2 destroyed by falling rock. On 1 Oct new tent taken there to sleep in on way to C3 and ridge. Stopped climb at 6550m because ran out of ropes, pitons and snow bars (needed 1500m rope more). Rock unstable and loose before ridge; on ridge many cornices and snow was slush. Now understood why others haven't gone this way. 3 Sherpas balked at crossing snow bridges as too risky. Route was basically same as Kim's attempt in 1984.
   
  Yu got sick and was replaced by Hong, a sponsor who was trekking in area (not officially recorded with Tourism Ministry).


expid: BARU94305
peakid: BARU
year: 1994
route1: SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Yves Detry
sponsor: Montagnes de la Terre Baruntse Expedition
ascent1: 31st,33rd
bcdate: 1994-10-15
smtdate: 1994-10-25
termdate: 1994-10-28
campsites: BC(15/10,5400m),C1(18/10,6100m),C2(20/10,6600m),Smt(25-26/10)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC southwest of lake southwest of West Col
  C1 at West Col
  C2 on South Ridge.

  Unlike Germans, this team made summit attempt only from C1 at 6600m and both attempts succeeded.

  * Sirdar Kami Tenzi Sherpa died of heart attack at Khote river at 3520m on approach march on 10 Oct at 4:15 am in his tent - 32 years, from Surka, near Lukla.


expid: BARU94303
peakid: BARU
year: 1994
route1: SE Ridge from W
nation: Finland
leaders: Sami Laitinen
sponsor: Finnish Baruntse Expedition
ascent1: 30th
bcdate: 1994-10-06
smtdate: 1994-10-23
smttime: 1550
campsites: BC(06/10,5445m),C1(11/10,6135m),C2(16/10,6450m),Smt(23/10)
accidents: None
achievment: 1st Finnish expedition in Nepal; 1st Finnish attempts and success in Baruntse
agency: Jannu Himal
routememo:
  BC at southwest shore of lake 
  C1 at West Col
  C2 on South Ridge.

  23 Oct 3 summiters left at 3:40 am for summit and on top 3:50 pm after fixing 100m that day and route making through soft snow and a tower (took 2 hours for 100m section) and returned to C2 at 7 pm. Had made a biv at 6720m earlier while exploring route - technically not difficult, but Finns not used to altitudes.


expid: BARU94304
peakid: BARU
year: 1994
route1: SE Ridge from W
nation: Germany
leaders: Josef Holzer
sponsor: DAV Baruntse Expedition
ascent1: 32nd
countries: Italy
bcdate: 1994-10-12
smtdate: 1994-10-26
smttime: 1200
campsites: BC(12/10,5420m),C1(14/10,6143m),C2(24/10,6600m),Smt(26/10)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC near lake southwest of West Col
  C1 at West Col
  C2 on South Ridge.

  1st summit attempt by 4 members from W Col on 21 Oct & reached 6900m & here had no ice axe and rope but technical problem: ice tower which required ropes & ice axe so turned back at 10:00 am. 

  2nd attempt on 24th when 2 members turned back at 6600m with medical problems while different people made C2 after realizing a second high camp was necessary. These two who made C2 rested on 25th & set out for summit on 26th: Loipfinger turned back at 6650m no longer interested in such hard work to get to top while Markert continued on up; had left C2 at 6:30 am & Markert summited at 12:00 noon & down to BC same day. Now no more time to climb.


expid: KANG94301
peakid: KANG
year: 1994
route1: SW Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Yoo Jae-Il
sponsor: 1994 Korean Kangche Expedition to Kangchenjunga
bcdate: 1994-08-31
smtdate: 1994-09-18
termdate: 1994-09-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to huge crevasse at 6800m
campsites: BC(31/08,5400m),C1(05/09,6100m),C2(07/09,6300m),xxx(18/09,6800m)
accidents: 2 Sherpas hit by avalanche 18th Sept & fell 10-20m but not hurt
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  High point near top of 2nd Icefall.

  Big crevasse across 2nd icefall at 6800m that could not go around or across (was 6 to 10m wide and team had no ladders). This was first major crevasse encountered. To right side of crevasse was very steep and difficult rock; to left side danger of big slab avalanches, so climb not possible.

  Fixed rope entire route from BC to 6800m. 

  2 Sherpas hit by snow avalanches 18 Sept and fell 10-20m but not hurt.


expid: JANU94301
peakid: JANU
year: 1994
route1: N Face-NW Buttress
nation: France
leaders: Pierre Rizzardo
sponsor: Jannu 1994
bcdate: 1994-09-20
smtdate: 1994-10-12
termdate: 1994-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to route difficulty, cold and wind
campsites: BC(20/09,4500m),C1(28/09,5400m),Biv(10/10,6350m),Biv(12/10,6900m),xxx(12/10,6900m)
accidents: Slight frostbite toes of Robach and Rizzardo; Robach serious virus and went down
agency: Pabil Treks
routememo:
  BC  at Khumbha Glacier south of Mera Peak
  C1  on top of rock pillar beside icefall (left side)
  Biv at Col between Jannu and Sobithongie on Jannu's NW Ridge
  Biv at snow cave on NW Buttress
  High point at 2nd bivouac.

  On top of rock pillar is glacier plateau where pitched C1 to at same site as previous expeditions; fixed rope from BC to C1 to make easier to ferry loads & slow ascent to C1 was good acclimatization. Alpine-style climb above C1 with moving tent but fixed from end of plateau with 500m light foxed ropes. Climbed 50m to left to 400m to right of Belgian's route on N Face because big serac over it looked dangerous. Reached col between Jannu and Sobithongie (6669m to W of Jannu) on 10th, rested at biv here on 11th & on 12th moved up NW Buttress to 6900m. Mixed ice snow and rocks, very difficult between C1 and col only slightly less difficult above col with same sections below col 80 degrees steepness and fixed 500m here. Stopped climb at 6900m because of continuing technical difficulty & because of cold and wind. Perhaps 400m below end of difficulty at shoulder but difficulty was continuous. NW Buttress is right border of N Face.

  Robach returned to climb and C1 on 6 Oct after serious viral infection; Molinatti and Rizzardo did most of fixing above C1 in Robach's absence.


expid: BARU94301
peakid: BARU
year: 1994
route1: E Ridge (to 5800m)
route2: SE Ridge (to 6600m)
nation: USA
leaders: Georgie Powers
sponsor: Wyoming Woman's Baruntse Expedition
bcdate: 1994-09-18
smtdate: 1994-09-26
termdate: 1994-10-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to lack of strength
accidents: Lichtenfels injured leg on approach march and was unable to go on
achievment: 1st woman's expedition to Baruntse
agency: In Wilderness (Kunga)
campsites:
  BC(18/09,5200m),ERidge(25/09,5600m),xxx(26/09,5800m); SRidge.C1(30/09,6100m),C2(02/10,6400m),xxx(03/10,6600m)

routememo:
  BC at Barun west side of Glacier due south of Makalu BC
  East  Ridge route C1 east of pt 6190m and northwest of pt 6220m on Schneider map
  South Ridge route C1 north of Sherpani Col
  C2 at 6400m at ridge.

  Got to top of serac and bottom of slope and didn't like snow conditions: lot of avalanche debris and crown fractures where slabs had started their slides. 5 hours tedious scrambling from BC to C1. Abandoned East Ridge as a route and went to West Col area and made new C1 at 6100m north of Sherpani Col to attempt SE Ridge; made C2 at 6400m on 2 Oct on normal route. Summit bid on 3rd by Brew, Powers and Wolfe to 6600m: 2 members not well and Brew not interested in continuing alone, so down to BC same day, 3rd Oct.


  Expedition News - Wyoming Women's Baruntse Expedition

  On September 18, 1994 the Wyoming Women's Baruntse Expedition arrived at Baruntse basecamp. Two days later the monsoon broke to blue skies continuing a streak of luck that had included the arrival of all of the climber's baggage, an excellent Nepali staff, and the absence of altitude illness amongst the expedition, even at 17,000 feet. The only blight was an accidental fall that caused Christine Lichtenfels bruises, cuts and a pulled leg muscle that were to hamper her the rest of the trip.

  The equipment was ferried up the Barun glacier the first week. The presence of huge and unstable rocks and four miles of slogging made for slow going. Baruntse was visible from the base camp but the expedition was anxious to head towards C1 to get a view of the projected route, the East Ridge.

  On Sept 24, Georgie Powers, Aileen Brew, and Sue Miller moved up to C1 at 18,000 ft. The three set out to scout the East Ridge the next day. There were large slab avalanche crowns on both sides of the ridge, some right at the ridge crest. There were cornices on the north side of the ridge, and the entire route was snowy including the initial headwall. The team moved up through an icefall, and eventually came to a snow slope at 19,000 ft that was determined to be unsafe and avalanche prone. Given the dangerous snow condition and the reduced load ferrying capacity due to Christine's accident, the team decided to abandon an East Ridge attempt.

  The new plan was to climb the normal route on the mountain, the SE Ridge. This route was more accessible, starting directly above base camp. It was not as technical either, allowing for a quick alpine style attempt. After a few days of ferrying loads back down the glacier to basecamp the group embarked on the SE Ridge. The new C1 was located at 20,000 feet. Aileen, Georgie, and Lynne Wolfe moved up to C1 while Sue remained at basecamp with the flu and Christine nursed her injuries. C1 was located at the head of a cirque: a 200-foot rock ridge the team dubbed "the Cleaver" would have to be surmounted in order to gain the Lower Barun Glacier and the summit ridge. On Oct 1, the team negotiated the Cleaver and followed a ramp to C2 at 6500m. The team woke at 3 am for a summit bid. 

  Unfortunately, the isobutane cannister used for cooking leaked fumes into the tent, Georgie became severely ill, vomited, and became exhausted. Lynne was not faring much better. After some rest, the team headed up the summit ridge, but turned around after two hours.

  While the summit was not reached the expedition succeeded in its goals of remaining safe and remaining friends. The experience was unforgettable.


expid: BARU94306
peakid: BARU
year: 1994
route1: SE Ridge from W
nation: Austria
leaders: Karl Gabl
sponsor: Alberg Expedition Adventure 1994 to Baruntse
ascent1: 34th
bcdate: 1994-10-20
smtdate: 1994-10-28
termdate: 1994-10-31
campsites: BC(20/10,5400m),C1(23/10,6100m),C2(27/10,6600m),Smt(28/10)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC south of West Col (normal site)
  C1 at West Col
  C2 on South Ridge.

  Ridge quite sharp & very hard snow, no slab as avalanches. French had already fixed ropes so this team did not have to fix much. Gusting winds required careful balancing.


expid: BARU94307
peakid: BARU
year: 1994
route1: SE Ridge from W
nation: France
leaders: Daniel Zanaroli
sponsor: French Expedition to Baruntse
bcdate: 1994-10-31
smtdate: 1994-11-06
termdate: 1994-11-08
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to big crevasses
campsites: BC(31/10,5400m),C1(04/11,6140m),C2(05/11,6500m),xxx(06/11,6800m)
accidents: None
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC just west of lake 5448m on National Geographic map
  C1 at top of West Col
  C2 just below pass on South Ridge
  High point on South Ridge.

  6 Nov try for summit from C2 at 6800m big crevasse; think previous expedition must have broken a snow bridge here. Members too tired to try another way going around this crevasse and weather now changing and actually snow started falling on 10 Nov.


expid: KANG94302
peakid: KANG
year: 1994
route1: SW Face
nation: Belarus
leaders: Sergei Novikov
sponsor: First Belarussian Kangchenjunga Expedition Lux-Geya
ascent1: 43rd
countries: Bulgaria, Russia
bcdate: 1994-09-28
smtdate: 1994-10-23
smttime: 1700
campsites: BC(28/09,5300m),C1(02/10,6200m),C2(15/10,7200m),C3(21/10,7800m),Smt(23/10)
accidents: Losowski altitude sickness; Koulabatchenko frostbitten finger (will lose parts)
agency: Kailash Journeys Treks
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at plateau at top of icefall
  C2 slightly below Great Shelf
  C3 just about Great Shelf at start of couloir.

  23 Oct Bulgarians left C3 at 3 am, without oxygen; Borislav turned back at 4:30 am 8100m, there toes started getting frostbitten so went down to BC same day and gave himself infection (now Ok); other member continued up; at 8:30 am he saw Dimitrova at about 8200m; at 11 am he saw her at 8300m not moving; he at BC 2 pm. After 11:00-11:30 am clouds obscured view from BC and lower mountain. Same day Koulabatchenko left C3 at 8:30 am using oxygen and started later than Bulgarians because he feared frostbite earlier. At 12 noon at 8100m near found outer glove in it's loop; 50m higher, found her ice axe also drilled into snow; at 8300m he found foot prints going 20m left (towards Yalung Kang) and 20m back to track but no footprints going higher. At 17 hrs Victor on summit and returned at 22 hrs to C3 completely exhausted and entirely alone; reached BC on 24th very weak and 3 black (frostbitten) fingers. 24th 2 members to 7200m and 25th to 7800m (on 25th to look for Dimitrova but no sign of her). They were not strong and did not go off track to search thoroughly. 

  9/10 Oct night hard snow avalanche fatally hit Ivanova and Jvirbiva in biv at 6700m but others waited for 2 days to hear from them, then rescue team went up to search and found only one camp on top snow.

  Oxygen used by Victor climbing above C3 to top and 45 minutes down from top; Losowski in C1 when sick from effects of altitude.


  Note: Italian Spr 1995 exped (Simone Moro) found the remains of a woman:

  29th April Mondinelli, Galezzi and De Stefani at 7700m to left of classical route 100m under serac (at base of seracs) found body of woman whose left leg from knee and right arm pulled out of socket; Mondinelli thinks she fell from distance; skull missing from eyebrows up and most hair gone (little left was curly light brown). Bulgarian pills found in chest pocket. Mondinelli saw it was a woman: breast flesh was left and waist narrow; leg broken at knee and skull means did not fall with snow avalanche, means fell on rock. Mondinelli found body thinking pink and yellow he saw from distance was a tent and went to look. Body placed in crevasse; nothing taken from it.


expid: BARU94302
peakid: BARU
year: 1994
route1: SE Ridge from W
nation: Greece
leaders: Nikolaos Magitsis
sponsor: Volos Greek Baruntse Expedition
bcdate: 1994-10-01
smtdate: 1994-10-03
termdate: 1994-10-04
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to avalanching and strong winds
campsites: BC(01/10,5500m),C1(02/10,5900m),C2(03/10,6400m),xxx(03/10,6400m)
accidents: Leader had fallen and went to C1 only
agency: Himalayan Excursions
routememo:
  C1 at before West Col
  C2 at South Ridge.

  Many avalanches and strong winds so rested from C2 and returned on 4th below.

  Arrived Nepal 11 Sept and left Kathmandu 23 Sept. 

  Snow Lion Guest House - Himalayan Excursions Tkg. agent.


expid: LANG94402
peakid: LANG
year: 1994
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Ichiro Hosoda
sponsor: Kohoku Alpine Club Langtang Lirung Expedition
bcdate: 1994-12-11
smtdate: 1994-12-24
termdate: 1994-12-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to strong winds
campsites: BC(11/12,4200m),ABC(12/12,4800m),C1(18/12,5600m),C2(24/12,6200m),xxx(24/12,6200m)
accidents: Tieko slight altitude sickness; Hosoda slight frostbite on toes (during descent from C2)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at normal site of Lirung Glacier
  ABC same as other Japanese Langtang exp.

  From 18th Dec 3 days of heavy snowfall & many avalanches. Kato and Tamang only pitched C1 on 18th and went down that day to BC because snowfalling and many avalanches. C1 occupied on 23rd by Hosoda and sirdar Tamang in summit bid. Reached C2 24th, sirdar descended 25th and Hosoda 27th because strong winds continuously and a little new snowfall. Rope and ladder already in place meant climb not so difficult; difficulty was the winds.


expid: ANN194401
peakid: ANN1
year: 1994
route1: N Face (French rte)
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Teuk-Hee
sponsor: Korean Annapurna I Expedition
bcdate: 1994-11-20
smtdate: 1994-12-02
termdate: 1994-12-04
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to avalanche
campsites: BC(20/11,4300m),ABC(26/11,4800m),C1(01/12,5400m),xxx(02/12,5800m)
accidents: Avalanche
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at normal site
  ABC at normal C1 site
  C1  at normal C1 site
  High point at beginning of steep section on north side.

  Route to C2 to 6400m was being made on 2nd Dec when ice avalanche started from 6000m and hit 3 members and 3 Sherpas at 5800m. Song's head slightly injured (no helmet) and Ha's finger broken requiring operation; Hwang injured in head, shoulder and leg; Ha and Song by helicopter to KTM.

  Now expected more avalanching and with 3 members and 1 Sherpa, Kazi Tamang also injured (shoulder and leg), plus 3 other members suffering in ABC from altitude, climb finished. "Not difficult without avalanche, maybe it's easy" says Jung and Kim agrees in 2nd day of from BC.

  Jun fell near Thulobugin on 2nd day of return trek; fell 50m on snow crust and died after 6-1/2 hours (about Dec 6).


expid: KTEG94401
peakid: KTEG
year: 1994
route1: Under SW side of SE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Hans Rauner
sponsor: Swiss Kangtega Expedition
bcdate: 1994-11-17
smtdate: 1994-12-01
termdate: 1994-12-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to dangerous bergschrung crevasse
othersmts: Climbed Mera (by all members)
campsites: BC(17/11,4900m),ABC(27/11,5200m),C1(30/11,6000m),xxx(01/12,6600m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at south end of Hinku Glacier
  ABC at start of SE Ridge on Hinku Nuptse side
  C1  at Kangtega Glacier
  High point at bergschrung on Kangtega Glacier.

  First climbed Mera Peak then 27th Nov started Kangtega with very long walk up glacier to ABC. 29th Nov crossed over to Kangtega Glacier, made camp at 6000m and down to ABC. 30 Nov back to C1. 1st Dec started early to go for summit via Kangtega Glacier where were many crevasses and bad snow (thin crust on top of 1 meter deep snow), then at bergschrund was deep crevasse & small bridge, very dangerous & turned back, taking C1 with them to BC; arrived at BC 2 Dec and sent for helicopter for some of expedition friends on Mera, who were slightly sick, to BC.


expid: AMAD94401
peakid: AMAD
year: 1994
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yasuhiro Takiguchi
sponsor: Kathmandu Club of Japan 1994-95 Winter Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 159
bcdate: 1995-01-01
smtdate: 1995-01-14
smttime: 1030
termdate: 1995-01-16
campsites: BC(01/01,4600m),C1(07/01,5700m),C2(10/01,6000m),Biv1(12/01,6300m),Biv2(13/01,6712m),Smt(14/01)
accidents: Ikeda slight altitude sickness; Kimura and Takiguchi slightly frostbitten toes
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  12 Jan 2 members from C2 to only 6300m and biv there because no fixed ropes between red tower and yellow tower, all rock. Another biv on 13th at dark at 6712m. Started that morning 9 am without any sleep because had noted over sleeping bags so very cold; on top at 10:30 am on 14th and slept at 6300m where have left biv sheet and 2 sleeping bags and cooking equipment. 15th to C2 and 16th to Pangboche. Technically not difficult, but reached to acclimatize on summit push.


expid: ANNS94401
peakid: ANNS
year: 1994
route1: Central Spur of S Face
nation: Russia
leaders: Vladimir Bachkirov
sponsor: Russian South Annapurna Winter Expedition
ascent1: 11th
bcdate: 1994-11-28
smtdate: 1994-12-17
termdate: 1994-12-22
campsites: BC(28/11,2200m),ABC(04/12,4300m,Biv(09/12,4800m),Smt(17/12)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at Chamrang
  ABC near South Ridge above point 3741m
  Biv 1 on South Ridge.

  First made to 4300m along from Chomrong to top, then rested 2 days. On 7 Dec started climb from Chomrong. At 6000m found ropes of Americans in 1988; middle section of Russian route was same as American route. On 7th biv at 3806m (took 2 days to reach ABC from Chomrong) and on 8th stayed at ABC. 9 Dec biv on S Ridge 200m below small summit at 5000m (4941m on map of German pub) and next day lower biv at 4700m on a ridge with many up and down sections. Ridge almost all ice with some snow; rock only 2 pitches where found American rope. Most difficult section was between 6000m (biv on 13th) to 6500m (biv on 16th) on knife ridge sometimes hard ice and sometimes strong wind (Cherny blown on 14th 20m off his stance but was clipped to fix rope and its ice snow held). 

  This climb technically not so difficult as Bachkirov's Ama Dablam climb but harder work: greater difference in altitude from Chomrong. Difficult to find route amongst rock towers, small gullies, etc. & difficult knife ridge. Had to carry 2 weeks provisions so very heavy loads. Days very short (6 am to 5:30 pm only) and very cold mornings. Until reached 6000m very clear but cold. Carried 4 ropes of 45m length more permanently fixed. Had only one tent on climb: "We had to climb together or descend together" and together all 5 reached summit: nice route straight line (only 300m at most off of ridge). At 7000m left descending rope with ice screw and others will find this. Summit is great plateau.


expid: DORJ94401
peakid: DORJ
year: 1994
route1: NW Face-NW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Andy Selters
sponsor: American Dorje Lhakpa Expedition
countries: Germany
approach: Langtang Khola
bcdate: 1994-11-14
smtdate: 1994-12-03
termdate: 1994-12-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to fatal accident
accidents: Slightly frostbitten toes 3 members; fatal fall
agency: Windhorse Trekking
campsites:
  BC(14/11,4630m),ABC(21/11,4940m),C1(30/11,5180m),C2(01/12,5900m),C3(01/12,6100m),C4(03/12,6400m),xxx(03/12,6400m)

routememo:
  BC  at Langshisa Glacier
  ABC under NW Face, only several hundred feet from wall
  C1  under NW Face
  C3  on NW Ridge
  C4  on NW Ridge
  High point at NW Ridge.

  After arrival at BC trekked around area and pitched ABC. Langshisa Glacier very rocky, worst glacier Collum ever on (& he has been in Karakoram). No fixed camps above ABC. Started climb c30 Nov and made 4 camps of one night each, carrying everything on their backs; inside tent frost formed which meant everything got wet. 4 hrs of sun each day only. From C2 climbed up steep section onto ridge which was moderate; difficult part was getting up steep section onto ridge. West Ridge is much easier to climb, lower angle and warmer from direct sunlight; would have probably gone over to West Ridge if accident hadn't happened. Only Selters and Schmierer went to C4, others too cold with toes begining to freeze. 5th Selters & Schmierer descended slowly to C3 and slept night there. 5th just 100 ft above C2 Schmierer's crampon came off while descending, had been off rope only a minute at 40-degrees hard ice, slid down hard ice & into crevasse, probably breaking his neck on ridge of crevasse at 2:45 pm. Selters reached him 15-20 minutes later but dead in crevasse (left there). Would have serious problem attempting rock climb at top of NW Ridge in very cold weather and wind.


expid: DHA194401
peakid: DHA1
year: 1994
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Franco Dellatorre
sponsor: Swiss Dhaulagiri Expedition
approach: Morang->Thorang Pass->Kali Gandaki south
bcdate: 1994-11-02
smtdate: 1994-12-10
termdate: 1994-12-12
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to lack of rope
campsites: BC(21/11,4800m),C1(06/12,6000m),xxx(10/12,6500m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Tip & Top Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 100m above NE Col
  High point on NE Ridge.

  Make C1 180m above col because many crevasses at col and it is very windy - had to fix rope in icefall and had to refix often because everyday changing with seracs falling; stayed close to rock. C1 only fixed camp; stayed here 4 nights but every day up to acclimatize (to 7000m) before trying for top from C1. One day a 300m long crevasse had opened, 1m wide but could cross it; used maybe 4m of autumn team's fixed ropes; no more than that still in proper place. From BC could see with binoculars would need to fix perhaps 400m rope and sent letter to his trekking agent to send this rope to BC and on 7th Dec Sherpa with rope met LO in Marpha. LO said Dellatore coming to Marpha on 10th so not necessary for Sherpa to go further and to leave rope and Rs. with him. Dellatore had sent letter from BC to Mainali saying he would try for top 12-13 Dec and if successful would send kitchen boy again on 15th to arrange porters. On 10th Dellatore returned BC to receive rope but not at BC. Waited one day and then left, abandoning climb. Had expected to be able to use fixed ropes left by autumn expeditions. Dellatore climbed entirely alone throughout climb.

  26 Dec 94 - Tourism ministry official, Padma KC, says LO had not been informed by BC that rope was needed. LO at Marpha recieved letter from sirdar at BC saying all was well, supplies were sufficient, Dellatore was trying for summit on 12-13 Dec and if he could not succeed, he would come down on 15th. No mention of rope needed and not clear whether Dellatore would make another summit bid after 15th. Dellatore should have brought rope with him from Kathmandu, not rely on old fixed ropes; anyway he was supposed climb alpine-style. Rope sent from Kathmandu arrived at Marpha and a porter set out with it for BC but he was unable to get to BC because of weather and returned to Marpha same day.


expid: LANG94401
peakid: LANG
year: 1994
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Koichi Ezaki
sponsor: Sapporo Alpine Association Langtang Lirung Expedition
ascent1: 15th
approach: Langtang Khola
bcdate: 1994-11-25
smtdate: 1994-12-14
smttime: 1525
campsites: BC(25/11,4800m),C1(01/12,5600m),C2(04/12,6150m),C3(08/12,6500m),Smt(14/12)
accidents: 2 members temporary altitude sickness (Ezaki was one)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at Lirung Glacier moraine on west side of Glacier (higher than normal site)
  C1 at top of a couloir on east side of SE Ridge 20m below ridge under big stone
  C2 at SE Ridge
  C3 at SE Ridge.

  C1 site well sheltered from snowfall but very small place where only two people can stay. C2 occupied one night but place but next day when all members down in BC this tent and C2 tent destroyed by wind. 

  Started climb up from BC when weather good again 13 Dec, stayed at C2 which actually "half broken" (torn and pole broken - tent could be used by four people instead of intended seven). 14th to summit: had not expected to sleep in C3 because assumed it destroyed by wind & know would have to climb to top from C2; had studied earlier expedition's reports and knew it was possible to go direct from C2 to top. Left C2 at 3 am and reached top 3:25 pm and returned to C2 7:30 pm (in dark) after having gathered up item from C3. On 15th returned to BC.

  16th Dec from C2 second attack reached 250m below top and then turned back when strong winds prevented them from staying up; Ezaki, Kudo, Ito and Man Bahadur Gurung in this party. Route was difficult this Dec because autumn's snow had been blown away or frozen, so were climbing on ice or rock in strong wind. Most of route fixed.


expid: DHA195102
peakid: DHA1
year: 1995
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Norbert Joos
sponsor: Swiss Dhaulagiri Expedition 1995
ascent1: 73rd-75th
countries: Austria, Germany, Mexico
approach: Myagdi Khola
bcdate: 1995-05-01
smtdate: 1995-05-15
smttime: 1000
campsites: BC(01/05,4800m),C1(04/05,5800m),C2(09/05,6800m),C3(16/05,7500m),Smt(15,17,19/05)
accidents: Hammann 19th May cerebral edema and froze to death
achievment: 1st Mexican and 1st Swiss woman
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 just below North Col
  C2 on NE Ridge
  C3 on NE Ridge above shoulder.

  Joos and Ennemoser went to 7500m with Carsolio and turned back at 3 am because not well acclimatized & dangerously sleepy. 

  17th Kofler and Schmid left C3 16th 8 pm and climbed through night and were on top at 8 am 17th & down to C1 same day. 

  19th summiters: 18th Joos and Ennemoser made snow cave at 7700m and next morning left for top 5 am and on top, Ennemoser on top at 9 am and Joos at 9:30 am after falling on route and down to C1. Braschler and Hammann left C3 at midnight and on summit at 2 pm together; started down at 3:30 pm together in strong wind. Braschler saw Hammann lying on plateau and 5-6m away his stick on snow; he was unaware pole not with him - discussed medical treatment and resumed descent, Braschler first; Braschler waited for him, called to him, he appeared on ridge looking down, disappeared & reappeared, shouted he had helicopter and now was not rational and refused to go down perhaps waiting for helicopters. Braschler tried to go up to him but in 15 minutes only, 10 mins gained because of exhaustion and went down; no other member able to go up to Hammann in "reasonable time." He/his body left at 8150m. Hammann was now totally irrational with serious altitude sickness and would die of it soon or freeze to death soon.

  Avalanche danger too great to climb middle of North Face, so joined Swiss route perhaps 10 days after they had been there, On 14th 4:00 am started up from BC with Joos, G. Ennemoser, Schneider, Kofler and Sommer. Above C1 only Carsolio, Joos Ennemoser continued up to C2 at 6400m at 2:00 pm and rested and cooked. At 10:00 pm 3 men continued up but at 7200m Joos and Ennemoser not well enough acclimatized and went down. Carlos on up, visited Russians (woke them up) at 7500m and left them at 5:00 am and on to top in quite deep snow but no wind, no clouds, even warm ("perfect day"). 30 hours from BC to top despite deep snow at 10:00 am. Down all the way to C1 at about 6:00 (before sunset). Too dangerous to descend to the side of icefall at night, so stopped at C1. 16th BC arrived 8:00 am.

  Carsolis did no climbing on Dhaulagiri till push to top on 14-15th.

  Now Carsolis had only Gasherbrums I and II and Manaslu still to climb among the 8000ers. "I am not in a hurry but I would like to climb there I will decide when I am home and see my daughter." He is a member of Wielicki's Gasherbrum I and II expedition for arrival on 15 June, but chances are 50-50 whether he goes or not.

  German summiter Albrecht Hamman died near the summit in his descent. His body lies on its back and is seen by most Dhaulagiri I summiters via the NE Ridge.

  The father of a Spanish climber, Quico Dalmases, came to believe that this body was that of his son who disappeared when he was climbing alone in the autumn of 1989, and the father, Joan Dalmases, appealed in the spring of 2007 to climbers that season to check various details to identify the body as that of Quico.

  Inaki Ochoa, one of the climbers whom Dalmases asked for help, summited Dhaulagiri I on 26 April 2007, said that the body was that of the German on Norbert Joos's team in the spring of 1995. The kind of crampons worn by the body did not exist in 1989.


expid: DRAN95101
peakid: DRAN
year: 1995
route1: E Ridge from S
nation: Norway
leaders: Arne Naess
sponsor: Drangnag Ri Expedition
ascent1: 1st
countries: Sweden, UK
bcdate: 1995-04-11
smtdate: 1995-04-30
smttime: 1300
campsites: BC(11/04,5430m),ABC(17/04,5830m),C1(23/04,6200m),C2(27/04,6400m),Smt(30/04)
accidents: Ulvang acute kidney complaint which was life-threatening
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC  at Drolambo Glacier on Schneider Rolwaling map east of Tashi Lapcha
  ABC below East Peak 6486m on glacier
  C1  at col above northeast of point 6086m at north end of glacier
  C2  at notch at north central end of Glacier.

  "A technically challenging mountain" - used Nordic skis to move from BC up glacier - for description of climb.

  One problem with climbing this mountain is having to evacuate someone up over the Tashi Lapcha.


expid: SITA95101
peakid: SITA
year: 1995
route1: N Ridge from E
nation: Japan
leaders: Kuniharu Okawa
sponsor: JAC Youth Section Sita Chuchura Expedition 1995
approach: French Pass
bcdate: 1995-03-24
smtdate: 1995-04-04
termdate: 1995-04-10
termnote: Abandoned at 5550m due to deep snow, avalanche danger and strong wind
campsites: BC(24/03,5100m),ABC(24/03,5250m),C1(04/04,5550m),xxx(04/04,5550m)
accidents: Nothing
achievment: 1st spring attempt
agency: Himalayan Culture Treks
routememo:
  BC  before French Pass
  ABC deposit before French Pass
  C1  at south side of ridge west from Pass.

  BC not at French Pass because too much snow and very strong wind at pass. C1 just little down on south side of ridge running west from French Pass. Had stayed at deposit camp/ABC 1 March to 3 April. Then night at C1 and then decided to go down: avalanche danger, deep snow falling every evening and strong wind. Every day deep snow above Koreans. 5th April to ABC and 7th April to BC. Then had trouble with deep snow below BC to Dhampus Pass and had to stay BC 3 days.
   
  3 members and no Sherpas not enough manpower; should be at least 6 people; also maybe came too early.


expid: ANN495101
peakid: ANN4
year: 1995
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Adi Weissensteiner
sponsor: Styrian Gesause Mountaineering Club Annapurna IV Exp 1995
bcdate: 1995-04-01
smtdate: 1995-04-09
termdate: 1995-04-10
termnote: Abandoned at 5250m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(01/04,3400m),ABC(06/04,4200m),xxx(09/04,5250m)
accidents: None
agency: Highland Expeditions
routememo:
  Took 4 days to get from Hongde up Sabje Khola to ABC because of fresh deep snow. Took all afternoon from ABC to 4600m and there decided where route should go: face up to 5800m totally snow packed with rock underneath. Next day from ABC to 5200m making route but sleeping both nights at 4200m. Then started snowing and could make little progress in deep snow which was powder. Decided to stop attempt because no chance to climb mountain in such deep snow. So part of expedition climbed Pisang and rest trekked around Annapurna.


expid: LANG95101
peakid: LANG
year: 1995
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Jose Javier Quinones Querencia
sponsor: Spanish Madrid Langtang Lirung Expedition
bcdate: 1995-04-13
smtdate: 1995-04-29
termdate: 1995-05-04
termnote: Abandoned at 5600m due to snow conditions
campsites: BC(13/04,4300m),ABC(14/04,4800m),xxx(29/04,5600m)
accidents: None
agency: Himalayan Sherpa Nepal
routememo:
  When arrived at mountain already deep snow and frequent new snowfall and snow did not consolidate. Made 3 carries of gear to ABC and from there up snow couloir twice reached 5600m on mixed snow and rock trying to reach C1 site at 5700m. Could not get to C1 because bad snow conditions and daily more snowfall made it pointless to continue. 4th May give up and twice go up to retrieve gear.


expid: MANA95101
peakid: MANA
year: 1995
route1: NE Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Holger Kloss
sponsor: High Dream Expedition 1995 to Manaslu
ascent1: 45th
bcdate: 1995-04-02
smtdate: 1995-05-07
smttime: 1310
termdate: 1995-05-14
agency: Kusum Kanguru
campsites:
  BC(02/04,3650m),C1(08/04,4850m),C2(09/04,5490m),C3(20/04,6100m),Biv1(01/05,6500m),Biv2(03/05,6700m),Biv3(04/05,7200m),Biv4(05/05,7700m),Biv5(06/05,7500m),Smt(07/05)

routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C2 (biggest camp - almost ABC).

  After 9th April was snowstorm and must fix 150m on 60-degree glacier and cross avalanche area first; between 2 and 3 was most technical part of climb. From C3 alpine-style since acclimatization good and original plan was to have 2 fixed camps. Difficulties above C2 and took 7-8 hrs to reach 6100m. 3 members up to 6500m on 1 May and 2 others went up a day earlier and join them at 6500m on 1 May. 5 members up together to 7500m on 5th May. 6th May 1 member was tired so Petter & Starke down and Starke fell from 7000m and Petter leading and heard Starke call out behind him, turned and saw Starke slip to 7000m; 1 hr later Petter reached him but he died half hour later despite Petter's effort to bring him out of unconsciousness and got frostbitten fingers. Left body in biv sack in snow. 

  7th May 3 members to summit: started at 6 am and on top at 1:10 pm, stayed 20 mins and then started down. Zunk at 7750m at 4 pm fell, was last of trio coming to biv at 7700m and reason for fall not known. Now snowstorm; next morning could not find body on great wall. Others on 8th moved up to bring down 3 who needed help and no more summit plans.

  42 days at BC and above - 40 days snowfall.

accidents:
  Petter frostbitten fingers; Thomas frostbitten toes; Bartok frostbitten (may lose toes and needed horse and helicopter to KTM); Kloss inflamed lungs; Bornschein broke rib in fall; Starke and Zunk fatal falls


expid: ANN195101
peakid: ANN1
year: 1995
route1: N Face (French rte)
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Tone Skarja
sponsor: Annapurna I
ascent1: 31st,32nd
countries: Croatia, Mexico
bcdate: 1995-04-12
smtdate: 1995-04-29
campsites: BC(12/04,4100m),C1(14/04,5100m),C2(18/04,5800m),C3(27/04,6600m),C4(28/04,7400m),Smt(29/04,06/05)
accidents: Only 1 skier's toes frostbitten
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC at normal site.

  No attempt on NW Buttress because frequent snowfall made it too dangerous. Dutch Rib not possible approach, very dangerous (ice avalanches) and upper part all broken with over hanging serac preventing passage to face. 

  This team had avalanching from below C2 seracs and snow avalanches between C2 and C3 (which hit 2 members but they were not hurt); almost broke fixed ropes. Also avalanches from hit 2 other men (this the most dangerous part) and destroyed (buried) C3 by the time Humar descended there. Ski descent by Karnicar brothers began at 9:15 am at 1200m below and followed ascent route; at c100-150m below C3 Davorin in lead passed OK, but Andre (Drejc) skied into fixed rope which got entangled around one leg at very steep place, rope stopped him and made him fall on his side; he cut rope with very sharp edge of ski and carried on; stopped skiing at c4200m where morning began. 2 men kept no more than 50 lines meter apart; used alpine touring skies; arrived at 4200m at 3:30 pm; paused for 15 minutes at C4, at C3, below C2 at C1. Andre very tired at end and had frostbitten toes (will lose ends of 2 toes).

  Ascent delayed by daily changing of weather with frequent snowfall. Arjun Tamang went up with Humar from C3 but did not want to summit so waited in C4 while Humar went to top alone.

  In 1979 French skier started not from summit but 200m below it, below rock section. Slovenes, very expert started from 2m below top, descended by ski down couloir to west of rock section just east of West Face. Also French did not use skies in section below C3 at 2-3 times, 10-20m each but Slovenes did; both stopped ski descent 100m above BC because of moriane.

  Carsolio: face "extremely dangerous"; "most dangerous climb I have ever been." Climbed with Slovenes as one team. Reached BC 9:00 pm of 29th (skiers at 4:00 pm) alone with 3 porters.

  Important dates:

  12 Apr:  BC at 4300m
  14 Apr:  C1 at 5100m established by Andrej and Davorin Karnicar, 
           Janko Opresnik, Tomaz Humar, Carlos Carsolio, Arjun Tamang,
           Zen Zen Bhote and Dawa Phuri.
           200m fixed rope was used between base camp and C1. It was
           temporarily dangerous from big avalanches of seracs and powder snow.
  18 Apr:  C2 at 5800m by Tomaz Humar, Janko Opresnik, Carlos Carsolio,
           Arjun Tamang, Zen Zen Bhote and Dawa Phuri Sherpa. The way
           between C1 and C2 was very difficult due to new deep snow 
           and dangerous because of falling of ice from seracs.
  26 Apr:  C3 at 6600m by Andrej and Davorin Karnicar, Tomaz Humar, 
           Carlos Carsolio, Arjun, Zen Zen and Dawa Phuri.
           Route between C2 and C3 led on glacier and snow buttress with
           many seracs and with the presence of dangerous snow 
           avalanche, on this section we used 300m of fixed rope and
           lost 6 loads in the avalanches.
  28 Apr:  C4 at 7400m by Andrej and Davorin Karnicar, Carlos Carsolio;
           weather was fine.
  29 Apr:  Before midnight they left C4 and without moonlight and 
           before sunrise they reached the last rock part 200m 
           below the summit. On the far right side they found a narrow
           couloir and at 8:25 am. They finished their ascent on the top
           of Annapurna I at 8091m. Weather was nice and the climbers
           stayed on the summit for one hour. After that Karnicar 
           brothers put their skis on and then made the first ski 
           descent from the summit of Annapurna I and continued to the
           last snow before base camp, about 4500-4600m. They took only
           short rest at C4, C3 and C1 and reached base camp at 6 pm. 
           Carlos Carsolio descended to BC at 9:30 pm. Next day we found
           that Andrej Karnicar had frostbite on his toes and we called
           for a rescue flight by helicopter.
  01 May:  Viki Groselj and Stipe Bozic reached C4 late evening and there for
           for 3 days because it was windy and snowing. Stipe Bozic became sick.
  04 May:  Viki Groselj tried to make ascent alone but after two hours he
           abandoned and both left C4 for the base camp.
           Same evening in bad weather condition (foggy, deep snow) Tomaz Humar
           and Arjun reached C4. They were tired and waited there for one day.
  06 May:  Tomaz Humar left C4 at 9:20 am by himself, leaving Arjun at C4.
           Climbing on deep snow he reached the summit at 7:00 pm and stayed
           10 minutes on the summit for photograph. He returned to C4 at 9:30 pm.
  07 May:  Both (Humar and Arjun) reached base camp at 6 pm. In the 
           meantime C3 disappeared under new snow and small avalanches.
  08 May:  At base came landed a big Asian Airlines Helicopter MI-8 and
           lifted Andrej Karnicar, Dr. Damjan Mesko and Stipe Bozic to KTM.
  10 May:  Rest of the expedition team left base camp for Deurali.
  15 May:  Arrived back in KTM.


expid: DHA195101
peakid: DHA1
year: 1995
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Dmitri Bochkov
sponsor: Russian Tomsk's Alpine Club Burevestnik Dhaulagiri 1995
ascent1: 71st,72nd
bcdate: 1995-04-01
smtdate: 1995-05-09
accidents: None
achievment: 1st Russian woman
agency: Everest Trekking
campsites:
  BC(01/04,3500m),ABC(05/04,4700m),C1(13/04,5800m),C2(20/04,6600m),C3(30/04,7200m),C4(06/05,7450m),C5(08/05,7800m),Smt(09,14/05)

routememo:
  BC  at Italian BC (low BC because here helicopter could land)
  ABC at normal BC site
  C1  at North Col
  C2  at start of NE Ridge.

  Throughout April and 1st 4 days May every evening gone. 1st summit attempt on 2 May by Bachkirov, Khilko, Krylov and Popov stopped at 200m above, saw state of snow (waist deep and great avalanche very close); had started from first C4 at 7400m, which on 6th May was placed at 7450m. 7th May Akinina, Outechev and Solomatov tried for top from 7450m camp and to avoid avalanches kept on ridge; reached 5000m at 4 pm so too late for summit and turned back. 9th May from C4 this trio plus Bochkov again tried for top and succeeded; left C5 at 5 pm in bad winds from south (dangerous to traverse very far below ridge so traversed above). Next summit bid on 14th May and party used normal traverse route: weather had changed from winter to spring with much better snow conditions; left C4 at 2:30 am and reached top 10:30 am and back to C4 at 2 pm in perfect weather, very warm on top (without down jacket), no clouds, no wind. 

  ABC entirely removed on 23 April by unknown persons: borrowed from Swiss to be able to summit, but not enough clothes for all members and had to trek tents from C5 down to C4. Marpha police caught 2 porters of trekking groups and restored half or more of stolen goods after climb finished.


expid: ANN495102
peakid: ANN4
year: 1995
nation: Australia
leaders: Gary Hayes
sponsor: Australian Annapurna IV Expedition
countries: Denmark
termnote: Abandoned due to theft of expedition funds
othersmts: Chulu East
accidents: 1 porter died on trail during approach march
agency: Bhrikuti Himalayan Treks
routememo:
  Did not reach BC 
  Did no climbing.

  10th April Hongde and stopped there because Sirdar Dawa Tshering took off with all expedition's funds. Did not think snow would be a problem and thought would go up NW Ridge but with funds gone and rest of staff his men, so never reached BC and did no climbing on Annapurna IV. Stayed at Hongde 8 days, while runner went to Kathmandu to fetch more funds; funds did not came and had obligation to pay porters, which have just now done.

  Porter died before Hongde in slab avalanche (Tenzing Lama) on 26th March.


expid: CHOY95101
peakid: CHOY
year: 1995
route1: NW side from N (Messner 1983 var - direct C1->C2)
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Danilo Tic
sponsor: International Cho Oyu Expedition 1995
ascent1: 161
countries: USA
bcdate: 1995-04-03
smtdate: 1995-04-18
campsites: BC(03/04,5650m),C1(08/04,6400m),C2(15/04,7000m),C3(17/04,7400m),Smt(18/04)
accidents: Chest infection main problem
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  Very strong cold wind on arrival at BC. Snow conditions excellent but not enough snow for skiing or making traverse from Yugoslav route so followed Messner variant. Between 2 yellow bands 1 member pitched C3 at 7400-7500m alone and went for top next morning while all others were in BC (chest and throat problems). No other summit attempts because not much time left. Constantly cold and very windy (fresh fruit frozen at BC).

  Oxygen used once by sick member.


expid: CHOY95104
peakid: CHOY
year: 1995
route1: NW side from N
nation: Japan
leaders: Hirofumi Konishi
sponsor: Japan Cho Oyu Research Expedition 1995
ascent1: 163
bcdate: 1995-04-13
smtdate: 1995-05-09
smttime: 1240
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(13/04),ABC(16/04,5700m),C1(23/04,6400m),C2(02/05,7000m),Smt(09/05)
accidents: None
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  After C2 on 2 May to ABC for 3 days rest. Started from ABC 7th May to C1, to C2 8th May and top 9th May. 9th May from C2 at 2 am and on top 12:40 pm, on top windy and very cloudy, could not see Everest but followed German's member wands for 1-1/2 hrs on plateau, returned to C2 6 pm; 10th May to ABC.


expid: CHOY95105
peakid: CHOY
year: 1995
route1: NW side from N
nation: Germany
leaders: Harald Popp
sponsor: DAV Summit Club Jubilee Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 162
countries: Austria
bcdate: 1995-04-14
smtdate: 1995-05-06
smttime: 1445
accidents: None except Zedrosser frostbite
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
campsites:
  BC(14/04),ABC(16/04,5450m),C1(18/04,6000m),C2(23/04,6600m),C3(04/05,7050m),C4(05/05,7400m),Smt(06/05)

routememo:
  Left C4 7:30 am Chinese time at 3:45 pm; took 1-1/2 hours to reach final summit from 1st peak which one thought was true summit. Both got to true summit. Zedrosser returned to C4 at 10:30 pm 2-1/2 hours after Eibl, very tired; he fell into crevasse up to hips and had to struggle to get out of it and fingers frostbitten when taking off crampons at C4; had left summit 5:00 pm. No wind at summit. Zedrosser needed help to get down mountain due to his exhaustion.

  Had more camps then normal with low ABC but had no altitude problems at all.


expid: CHOY95103
peakid: CHOY
year: 1995
route1: NW side from N
nation: Mexico
leaders: Andres Delgado
sponsor: International Mountain Climbing (IMC) Cho Oyu Expedition 1995
ascent1: 163
countries: Argentina
bcdate: 1995-04-12
smtdate: 1995-05-09
smttime: 0900
campsites: BC(12/04),ABC(14/04,5700m),C1(16/04,6400m),C2(25/04,7200m),C3(27/04,7400m),Smt(09/05)
accidents: Torres broke arms leaving ABC for BC
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Ponce de Leon and Delgado 26th tried to go to top from 7200m, reached 7900m and not well acclimatized and took rest while 2 other members made C3; stayed 3 days there and also down to ABC. On 3 May ABC to C2, didn't like weather and down to ABC. 

  7th May Ponce de Leon and Delgado from ABC to C1 in afternoon, 8th May C1 to C3 and 9th May to top. Left C3 at 3:00 am, on top at 9:00 am and back to C3 at 2:00 pm, 10 May to ABC.


expid: CHOY95108
peakid: CHOY
year: 1995
route1: NW side from N
nation: Austria
leaders: Erich Gatt
sponsor: Horizont Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 173
countries: Germany
bcdate: 1995-05-16
smtdate: 1995-06-01
campsites: ABC(16/05,5700m),C1(6350m),C2(6900m),C3(7100m),C4(7400m),Smt(01/06)
accidents: Ms. Koch some frostbite, says trekking agent
agency: Lamjung
routememo:
  Unguided commerical climb: 

  Group's members independent and did what they wanted to do, Gatt gave no orders - no slaves, no oxygen. "Climbed by fair means", but used other's ropes. All members tried reach summit but C4 reached by only 8 members and of these only 2 went to very top. 25th in clouds at 3 pm and didn't want to go all the way because couldn't see things: had to follow flags and went to last flags, then too dangerous to go on. Were very late in season and had cloudy weather. Members who went to plateau only:

  25th May - Gatt, Kerler and Fuchs
  31st May - Linhofer
  1st June - Hartlein
  3rd June - Gatt again, Vielkind

  Michael Fuchs - did not go to highest point because was 5:30 pm, returned to C2 at 9:00 pm.


  Michael Fuchs - 31 May 95

  I reached very near (could not see Everest plateau), went a little higher the summit on 25 May with the leader Erich Gatt and Michael. Our ascent goes in three days from the base camp to the top and one day down the route is the normal route over the northwest side.


expid: GIMM94301
peakid: GIMM
year: 1994
route1: E Ridge-E Summit-N Peak from N
nation: Japan
leaders: Kensihiro Otaki
ascent1: 1st
bcdate: 1994-10-03
smtdate: 1994-10-29
othersmts: Climbed Gimmigela Chuli East (GIME-943-01)
accidents: 29th Oct summiters had serious frostbite
achievment: 1st ascent
campsites:
  BC(03/10,4900m),C1(06/10,5250m),C2(09/10,5850m),C3(17/10,6500m),C4(25/10,6900m),C5(28/10,6700m),Smt(31/10)

routememo:
  BC at Zemu Glacier
  C1 at Nepal Gap Glacier
  C2 at Nepal Gap Glacier
  C3 on east ridge of Twins East (7005m)
  C4 on east ridge of Twins East Peak
  C5 at north side of ridge between east and main peaks.

  Route was same as that in Aut 1993 E Ridge from North to E Summit and on towards main summit.

  Twins (7350m) - Gimmigela Chuli

  From September to November 1994, a Japanese expedition led by Kenshiro Otaki with 7 members climbed Twins, in North Sikkim. The summit was climbed on 29 September 1994 by Kazunori Chikui and Ishimori Takashima. The summiters were reported missing and a helicopter rescue and search was mounted. After anxious days due to a hail storm, they could be traced only on 4 Nov and reached base camp on 8 November. Earlier on 29 October Shigeru Yokokuwa with Pasang Tenzing, Dawang and Pasang had climbed the summit of Twins. They all returned with serious frostbites and had to be evacuated. Thus this was an eventful expedition to Twins.


  Iwa-to-Yuki, April 1995

  The Twins (Gimmigela 7350m)

  As reported in our previous issue, The Japan Sikkim Climbing team, who made the first ascent of this peak, was involved in an accident. On Oct 31, Ishimori Takashima (47) and Kazunori Chikui (34) made the second summit after the first one on 29th. They however had to bivouac 3 nights at 7000m point due to sudden deteriorating weather on their way down. On the 4th day they returned C5 (final camp, 6700m) where they were welcomed by a Sherpa who had been waiting for their coming down. They however needed to take a rest for a while there. Then a Sherpa, leaving 2 members at C5, descended down, which resulted in their isolation from lower camps again. A helicopter, which was expected to find out the whereabouts of these 2 isolated climbers, researched on Nov 10 and found them who were coming down to C4, but failed to pick them up to helicopter. A rescue team was dispatched on Nov 15th. Sherpas reached C4 as late as on 21st but only to find two dead bodies.

  On 28th Oct, Ishimori Takashima (47) and Shigeru Yukokawa (43), plus Pasang Gyalzen Sherpa (30), Dawa Wangchuk Sherpa (23) and Dawa Sherpa (22), crossed over East Peak and pitched C5 on Nepalese (north) side of ridge connecting East and Mani Peaks. Next day, these 5 climbers made summit bid and reached point right beneath main summit at 5:00 pm. Sherpas refused to go farther because "summit sancturary boundary should not be stepped on," and they returned to C5. Takashima and Yokokawa could not claim summit success, and Takashima insisted on trying again. 

  On 31st Oct, he [Takashima] and Kazunori Chikui (34) made second summit bid. They succeeded, but had to bivouac for 3 nights at 7000m because weather suddenly deteriorated during their descent. They reached C5 on 4th day (3 Nov) and met Dawa there (he had waited there for them) they had to rest there. Dawa left them at C5, leaving them isolated from lower camps. Helicopter search for them found them on 10th Nov descending to camp but did not pick them up. Rescue teams went up on 15th Nov and on 21 Nov Sherpas found them both dead in C4.


expid: CHOY95106
peakid: CHOY
year: 1995
route1: NW side from N
nation: Germany
leaders: Ralf Dujmovits
sponsor: Amical Alpin Cho Oyu Expedition 1995
ascent1: 164,167
countries: Austria, France, Switzerland
bcdate: 1995-04-16
smtdate: 1995-05-09
smttime: 0948
campsites: BC(16/04,4900m),ABC(19/04,5700m),C1(23/04,6300m),C2(27/04,6950m),C3(08/05,7350m),Smt(09,11/05)
accidents: Osterbauer lung infection and sent back from BC
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  1st summit team 9th May Dujmovits, Nawang Thile at 9:48 am and between 10:40 am and 1:30 pm: Arvis, Brand, Brill, Edel, Hauesler, Mr. Hub & his wife (2 hours later), Prasicek, Spescha, Vedani (from C2).


expid: TAWO95101
peakid: TAWO
year: 1995
route1: NE Pillar up; SE Ridge down
nation: UK
leaders: Michael (Mick) Fowler
sponsor: Tawoche Expedition 1995
ascent1: 11th
bcdate: 1995-04-11
smtdate: 1995-04-28
accidents: None
agency: Himalayan Sherpa Nepal
campsites:
  BC(11/04,5060m),Biv1(22/04,5700m),Biv2(23/04,5850m),Biv3(24/04,5950m),Biv4(25/04,6050m),Biv5(26/04,6200m),Biv6(27/04,6450m),Smt(28/04)

routememo:
  BC   east of point 5096 and Tawoche Glacier
  Biv1 at northeast shoulder (French '90 high point)
  Biv2 at NE Ridge/Pillar/Buttress
  Biv  also on descent at 5950m on SE Ridge.

  Above 1st biv, very steep rock so next biv not much higher, in fact entire remainder of pillar was equally steep and difficult. Morrison and Watts got no higher than 5600m while Fowler and Littlejohn made push to top with series of 6 bivs. In descent via SE Ridge at 5950m had one biv on night of 28th.


expid: CHOY95107
peakid: CHOY
year: 1995
route1: NW side from N
nation: UK
leaders: Martin (Barney) Barnicott
sponsor: Himalayan Kingdoms Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 171,172
countries: Australia, Norway, USA
bcdate: 1995-05-12
smtdate: 1995-05-29
campsites: BC(12/05),BC(14/05,5700m),C1(18/05,6450m),C2(21/05,7000m),C3(28/05,7400m),Smt(29-30/05)
accidents: Crom did not go on acclimatization trek, felt altitude and left
achievment: 1st person with artificial limb on 8000m summit
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  16th May avalanche covered 4 members who ran from it; filled valley but no one hurt.

  Nima Temba, 36, Beding, climbed Everest with Dutch in May 92
  Ang Temba, Beding, climbed Everest
    (was with Koreans winter '84 and actually went to Annapurna middle summit)
   
  Croucher bived alone at 7800m at about 4:00 pm, very tired especially by snow 4 deep on slabs and breaking descent with ski poles is exhausting work for man with 2 artificial legs. Alarmed others who had no idea what had become of him when he didn't come on radio after 6:00 pm.


expid: CHOY95102
peakid: CHOY
year: 1995
route1: NW side from N
nation: USA
leaders: Eric Simonson
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 166,168-170
bcdate: 1995-04-11
smtdate: 1995-05-11
smttime: 1145
campsites: BC(11/04,4875m),ABC(15/04,5670m),C1(20/04,7130m),C2(24/04,7470m),Smt(11-12,16-17/05)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  1st summit bid on 11th May - on top 11:45 am - 12:00 noon
                    12th May - on top 10:30 am
                    16th May - on top  8:30 am
                    17th May - on top  9:30 am

  11th party on oxygen, fixed rope and trail with Germans not on oxygen behind by 2 hours. 12th no one else on top nor on 16th and 17th.

  Sherpas: 
    (Tenzing) Finzo,  40, Phortse - this was his 1st 8000er
    (Dawa Nuru) Domurk, 36, Phortse - Everest '90 (Porzak)
                                      Everest '93 (Burleson)
                                      Makalu '87 (Porzak)
                                      Cho Oyu '90 (Brice)


expid: CHOY95109
peakid: CHOY
year: 1995
route1: NW side from S
nation: Germany/Iran
leaders: Mischa Saleki
ascent1: Claimed
approach: Nangpa La
smtdate: 1995-05-07
termnote: Success claimed
campsites: Smt(07/05?)
agency: None
routememo:
  Eric Simonson:

  Mischa Saleki was seen from below summit plateau, then disappeared from sight reappeared 1-2 hours later, so probably summitted. Was totally alone, had old equipment and a tent which he moved with him. He managed to sneak back across Nangpa La into Nepal without being stopped.


expid: LHOT95101
peakid: LHOT
year: 1995
route1: W Face
nation: Australia
leaders: Michael Groom
sponsor: Australian-Finnish Lhotse Expedition
ascent1: 30th
countries: Finland
bcdate: 1995-04-10
smtdate: 1995-05-06
smttime: 1100
othersmts: Climbed Makalu (MAKA-951-05) (Gustafsson)
campsites: BC(10/04,5350m),C2(21/04,6450m),C3(23/04,7300m),Smt(06/05)
accidents: Groom frostbitten fingers which will heal
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
routememo:
  C2 in West Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face.

  25th down to BC and up from BC on 2nd May at 4 pm intending to go straight to top, but strong wind and snowfall stopped them in C2 for 3 nights (2nd, 3rd and 4th). On 5th to C3 and 6th 12:30 am from C3 for top. Groom got to top 11:00 am & Gustafsson 12 noon (slowly). "Pretty boring" climb.


expid: PUMO95101
peakid: PUMO
year: 1995
route1: NE Face/Ridge
nation: Denmark
leaders: Rene Andersen
sponsor: Danish Pumori Expedition 1995
bcdate: 1995-04-18
smtdate: 1995-04-29
termdate: 1995-05-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to avalanching
campsites: BC(18/04,5300m),C1(24/04,5750m),xxx(29/04,6400m)
accidents: None
agency: Ama Dablam Trekking
routememo:
  BC at above lake
  C1 at rock ridge of NE Face
  High point at NE Face.

  22nd pitched C1 and down to BC to sleep and spent 23rd there. 24th to C1 to sleep. 25th in C1. 26th to site of C2 at 6200m and down to BC because of bad weather (snowing fairly hard). C1 just below big serac about to collapse. 27th rest in BC. 28th to C1 to sleep. 29th to C2 site and on to 6400m on ridge despite avalanche which atarted at 6500m and went down side of ridge. At 6400m decided to descend because no longer on ridge and therefore not safe from avalanche. Down to BC on 29th. On 30th huge serac avalanche. 

  Breil-Hansen and Schroder left mtn early because they thought it was too dangerous; they had reached C1.


expid: AMAD95102
peakid: AMAD
year: 1995
route1: NW Ridge from S
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Robert Steenmeijer
sponsor: First Dutch Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 1995-04-28
smtdate: 1995-05-07
termdate: 1995-05-12
termnote: Abandoned at 5735m due to bad snow conditions and to save remaining time for attempt on SW Ridge
campsites: BC(28/04,4530m),ABC(01/05,5200m),xxx(07/05,5735m)
accidents: Idema cerebral altitude sickness
achievment: 1st Danish attempt
agency: Himalayan Hill Treks
routememo:
  BC  east of Mingbo
  ABC on glacier
  High point on South Pillar of NW Ridge.

  Stayed at ABC (all 4 members) from 1st May. On 5th May up from ABC Steenmeijer and Valkenberg opened 5 pitches rock climbing (to Grade 6) while other fixing ropes. On 7th Redeker and Steenmeijer opened another 5 pitches (Grade 6) and Valkenberg fixing ropes (Idema ill and down to BC). Next 6-7 days tried to progress but very steep slabs with ice cover and on top of that snow (when fresh snow melted, snowed again) and fixed ropes got crushed with ice. So now abandoned this route quickly to make attempt on SW Ridge in remaining time to 31 May and end of season, but permission not granted for another route.

  Route much same as Bulgarian Autumn 1987.


expid: AMAD95101
peakid: AMAD
year: 1995
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Donald McIntyre
sponsor: 1995 American Environmental Friendship Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 160
bcdate: 1995-04-17
smtdate: 1995-04-25
termdate: 1995-04-27
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(17/04,4500m),C1(19/04,5800m),C2(23/04,6400m),Smt(25/04)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site across moraine from Mingbo
  C2 at normal C3.

  24th April made summit attempt by Cleary and Bridges but turned back in bad weather exhausted at 21,300 ft. On 25th same pair reached top from last camp after having rested, eaten and drank most of 24th. More ice climbing than expected and route continuously technical climbing from C1 to summit. 24 rope lengths of technical climbing on ridge: fixed on rope but on lower part of route did use some old fixed ropes on ridge.

  In ascent all 4 members made biv at 19,500 ft on 22 April but no one slept there later. Cleary and Bridges were stronger team at the time. On 23rd McIntyre and Koury went down from biv while stronger pair went on up.

  On 25th April Koury and McIntyre found a woman's body out 600 ft down the south side of the ridge between C1 ant C2; body was covered with stones with boots sticking out (must be Karine Van Dooren of 1992 Aut French-Belgian-USA-Italian team).


expid: LHOT95102
peakid: LHOT
year: 1995
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Todd Burleson
sponsor: 1995 American Everest Exped & 1995 American Lhotse Exped
ascent1: 31st
countries: UK
bcdate: 1995-04-10
smtdate: 1995-05-10
termdate: 1995-05-12
othersmts: Attempted Everest (EVER-951-09)
campsites: BC(10/04,5350m),C1(16/04,6000m),C2(18/04,6500m),C3(25/04,7200m),C4(09/05,7000m),Smt(10/05)
accidents: None on Lhotse
agency: Asian Trekking
primid: EVER95109
routememo:
  Climbed couloir to top and straddle W Face and Kangshung Face in only attempt for Lhotse's summit. Ken arrived in KTM 15th April, BC 23 April and acclimatized extremely fast. 6th May left BC for summit push.

  Oxygen: Bishop sleeping in C3 and above; Kerr climbing C3 to C4 and C4 to top but not sleeping Sherpas in and above C4.


expid: MAKA95101
peakid: MAKA
year: 1995
route1: E Ridge to plateau E of Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Tsuneo Shigehiro
sponsor: Japanese Alpine Club Makalu Expedition 1995
ascent1: 47th,48th
bcdate: 1995-03-30
smtdate: 1995-05-21
smttime: 1245
termdate: 1995-05-28
accidents: Nothing serious
achievment: 1st attempt and 1st ascent from Tibet
agency: Himalayan Journeys
campsites:
  BC(30/03,3920m),C1(17/04,4670m),C2(04/04,5180m),C3(14/04,5660m),C4(28/04,6300m),C5(13/05,6800m),C6(19/05,7350m),C7(20/05,7650m),Smt(21-22/05)

routememo:
  C1 (at first only deposit)
  C2 on south side of East Ridge
  C3 on south side of East Ridge
  C4 on East Ridge
  C5 on East Ridge
  C6 on NW Ridge normal route.

  E Ridge originally intended route but decided at BC this ridge had too many small rock peaks and would take much time to follow it, so went from BC to C3 on south side of ridge and then from C3 to ridge, where C4 and C5 were pitched. C6 below Makalu La and C7 on NW Ridge of normal route. Fixed 5600m: C2 to C3 half this distance, half of route again between C3 to C4, all of C4 to C5, C5 to junction peak of 7300m all; C6 to C7 150m only, from C7 to summit 400m - most difficult from C3 to C5: from C3 to C4 very sharp snow and ice ridge with cornices. From C3 and C4 ice avalanche hit 2 Sherpas but not seriously hurt. Tanabe hit by rock at 8300m and head gashed but could continue descent without help. On 21 May summit party left C7 at 4 am and on top 12:45 pm and 2 members returned to C7 to sleep while others 2 to C6 about 6 pm and slept there; very clear but very strong wind. 22 May summiters started from C7 at 3:30 am, on top 11:40 am and slept in C6. "This most difficult climb in my experience" says Tanabe.
   
  Expedition financed by Yomiyuri newspaper. Royalty was $30,000 and were 12 climbing members.

  Campsites as given in JAC notes:
    BC(30/03,3960m),C1,C2(04/04,4690m),C3(14/04,5650m),C4(28/04,6300m),
    C5(13/05,6820m),C6(19/05,7350m),C7(20/05,7650m),Smt(21-22/05)


expid: MAKA95102
peakid: MAKA
year: 1995
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Juanito Oiarzabal
sponsor: Basque Makalu Expedition 1995
ascent1: 43rd,45th
countries: S Korea
bcdate: 1995-04-06
smtdate: 1995-05-08
smttime: 1030
campsites: BC(06/04,5600m),C1(08/04,6200m),C2(15/04,6700m),C3(25/04,7400m),C4(26/04,7800m),Smt(08-09/05)
accidents: Kitchen boy altitude sickness
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at beginning of glacier, higher than same ABCs
  C3 at Makalu La.

  27th April made timid summit attempt from C4 with 200-300m gained, very windy and dark clouds and down. 2 May from C3 but tent broken in night by very strong winds and all 5 down again. 3rd attempt on 8th May: left C4 3 am, on top 10:30 am and down to C4 2 pm. On 7th May reached C4 but found wind had taken away camp's one tent, so 3 members slept in Australian's tent, 1 in French tent with Chamoux and Royer and Zerain went back to C3. On 9 May Zerain left C4 at 3:30 am and on top 9 am and down to C3 at noon. All to BC 9 and 10 May.


expid: MAKA95105
peakid: MAKA
year: 1995
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Rob Hall
sponsor: NZ, US and Finn to Makalu (on Spanish permit)
ascent1: 46th
countries: Finland, USA
bcdate: 1995-05-13
smtdate: 1995-05-18
smttime: 0630
othersmts: Climbed Everest (EVER-951-01) (Hall) and Lhotse (LHOT-951-01) (Gustafsson)
campsites: BC(13/05,5100m),ABC(14/05,5700m),C1(15/05,6300m),C2(16/05,7400m),C3(17/05,7800m),Smt(18/05)
accidents: None
achievment: 1st NZer & 1st Finn
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at Barun Glacier, 3 hours walk from junction BC
  ABC at Basques's ABC
  C1  at normal C2
  C2  at Makalu La
  C3  at normal C4.

  Left for summit at 0:30 hrs on 18th May, 3 members together and got to top at 6:30 am little windy but it died on summit ridge, no clouds and down to last camp 11:30 am, rested down Makalu La camp (Hall last, oxygen finished on return to highest camp).

  Hall and others saw 4 Japanese on 18th while they were descending to Makalu La camp and Japanese were putting up a tent at 7350m and moved.


expid: MAKA95104
peakid: MAKA
year: 1995
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Benoit Chamoux
sponsor: Two French and one British (on Spanish Makalu permit)
ascent1: 42nd disputed
countries: UK
bcdate: 1995-04-09
smtdate: 1995-05-07
smttime: 1300
termnote: Success disputed
campsites: BC(09/04,5450m),C1(13/04,6200m),C2(19/04,6800m),C3(25/04,7400m),Biv(06/05,7900m+),Smt(07/05)
accidents: None
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  BC above and to west of junction.

  27th April 1st summit bid by 2 members, stopped at 7000-8000m serac - was lot of ice, so down to BC. On 6 May biv at 7900-8000m at bottom of last serac. On 7 May fixed rope at 8400m to 8500m because couls in very dry rock. Started up at 3:00 am and on top at 1:00 pm, having carried rope and fixed 120m+ of rope; returned to biv 8:00 pm and down to BC on 8th. Made second bid waiting a week for wind to drop.

  * Two Spaniards Vallejo and Oiarzabal, who reached summit on 8 May 1995, said on 8 Oct 95 (when they came to Lhotse) that Chamoux and Royer did not go all the way to top the previous day. Spaniards saw footprints stop 50-60m below summit; stopped at plateau which is bottom of summit pyramid. French were very late on 7th May and would have taken 1 more hour on difficult terrain to reach top.


  Viesturs - 26 March 97: 

  Australians told Viesturs and Hall that Chamoux's footprints in snow stopped at first pinnacle, well below summit. Snow would have revealed prints if wind didn't blow them away.


expid: BARU95101
peakid: BARU
year: 1995
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Renate Link
sponsor: ABER Expedition Team to Baruntse
ascent1: 35th
bcdate: 1995-05-09
smtdate: 1995-05-19
campsites: BC(09/05,5000m),BC2(11/05,5500m),C1(15/05,6130m),C2(17/05,6600m),Smt(19/05)
accidents: None
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  BC at Hillary BC on Barun Glacier
  BC south of point 6095m on Schneider map
  C1 on West Col
  C2 on saddle between point 6730m and South Ridge.

  Perfect weather.


expid: MAKA95103
peakid: MAKA
year: 1995
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: David Hume
sponsor: Australian Makalu Expedition 1995
ascent1: 44th
bcdate: 1995-04-08
smtdate: 1995-05-08
smttime: 1800
campsites: BC(08/04,5400m),C1(15/04,6050m),C2(22/04,6800m),C3(05/05,7400m),C4(07/05,7800m),Smt(08/05)
accidents: Hume fatal fall
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
routememo:
  C1 on moraine
  C3 at Makalu.

  [First chronicle]
  1st carried to 7400m 26th April and felt acclimatized on push to La on 5th by Hume, Pavich, Auricht and Tingay; rest day on 6th & 7th set out for C4 and probably summit. Tingay got symptoms of cerebral edema and down before C4, 3 others made C4 (Basques going up at same time). Pavich down to C3 on 8th because exhausted and stayed in C3 in support of summiters. Hume and Auricht to top in clear and highest wind. Used no oxygen and Hume not a fast climber. When Hume began his slide at 250m he was 20m above started of fixed rope; snow with thin crust on ice. Contributing factor to Hume's condition when he went to the top was his generosity in letting Basques use his team's tent and couldn't sleep. Cause of fall could have been Hume's blacking out since he did not call out, but could have been loss of crampon. Auricht had glissaded in his descent, arrested this, came to stop at pile of rocks and stood up while Hume shot past Auricht. Pavich made meticulous plans. Chessell thought Hume not a good leader because no confidence in his climbing ability and fitness (fell on Xixa and had to be helped down Everest). Body may be in icefall crevasse at 7900m.

  [Second chronicle]
  Gear put at C3 on 26 April but not slept in till 1 May (C2 slept in 24 April). C4 made by Auricht, Hume and Pavich on 7 May. On 8th Pavich down to C3 because very weak and slow while Hume and Auricht went up to top, leaving C3 at 1:00 am and got to true top at 6:00 pm, left top 6:45 pm; at 8:00 pm at top of icefall at 8300m both slipped, Mark arrested his own descent but David kept slidding, hit Mark. Ice axe with glove in its leash at about 8200m (and other glove and boots found by Spaniards at 8100m and blood at 8200m or lower); believe body went into crevasse about 7900m. Mark shocked got to C4 down blue ice very slowly reaching C4 at 4:00 am. C4 had 2 Basques but no Aussies. Mark on 10th tried to go up to look for Hume's body, got only 100m and too tired and turned down and joined Pavich, still at C3 and both slept there that night. 11th Chessel and Tingay with porters up from camps to help those above turned back while Pavich took 10 hours from C3 to C2 while Auricht to BC same day. 12th Pavich stopped at Spanish BC at 5600m and enjoyed their hospitality so all members were down by 12 May.


  Australian Makalu Expedition - Spring 1995

  Statement regarding the death of David Victor Hume as witnessed by Mark Auricht:

     David Hume, Chris Pavich and Mark Auricht established C4 at 7800m on the afternoon of the 7th of May.
     The Basque climbers who also climbed to C4 on the 7th approached us to share our tent as theirs had blown away! We allowed 3 Basque climbers to share our tent and stove. The result was an uncomfortable night with little or no sleep.
     David and I rose at midnight and left the tent for the summit push at 1:30 am on the 8th May. Chris returned to C3 later that morning due to fatigue.
     We reached the summit at approx 6:15 pm. We sat for about 35 minutes taking photos, video and enjoying the experience.
     At approx 6:50 pm we left the summit, belayed each other across to the false summit, walked the summit ridge and found the descent gully by approx 8:30 pm.  We began the descent on steep snow.
     After about 50m of descent my legs were struck by David as he had slipped above me and had collided with me. I was able to arrest my fall as I witnessed David accelerate on his back over the rock step below. I did not see him again.
     I continued my descent looking and calling for David. As I climbed/abseiled down I found evidence of his fall including his ice axe and one glove, also a streak of blood on the ice approx 250m below where he first slipped.
     It was clear that David must have continued to fall/slide down into the icefall below (possibly another 100m or more). I felt that there was no hope for his life. I also felt it was unsafe to search for David at that time.
     I returned slowly to C4 arriving at 4:30 am on the 9th of May, 27 hours after leaving.
     30 minutes prior to arriving back at C4 (i.e., 4:00 am) I met Alberto [Zerain] Berasategi (the Basque climber). I told Alberto about the tragic accident and asked him to look for David. Alberto returned to C4 that afternoon after being on the summit, he was unable to find David. However he saw two boots (one with crampon) and a large blood streak below the gully.
     Alberto and the remaining Basque left C4 on the afternoon of the 9th. I was alone continuing to rest.
     At 5:00 am on the 10th of May I left C4 to search for C4 and 30 min later I decided to return to C4.
     Back at C4 I rested, got warm again and at approx 10:00 am and I began my descent to C3.
     I arrived at C3 at about 3:30 pm and was met by Chris who had waited for my return.
     On the 11th of May Chris and I descended to C2. Chris remained at C2 and I continued to BC assisted by Duncan Chessel, David Tingay and 3 Sherpas.


  Monday, 8 May 1995:

  1:00 am: David Hume and Mark Auricht at C4. Left for summit 1:00 am. (Shared their tent with 4 Basque climbers, whose tent had been blown away - left for summit before Basques)
  Chris Pavich overnighted at C3, alone.
  Duncan Chessell and David Tingay arrived at BC at 9:00 pm, David T had descended from C4 with cerebral edema symptoms.
  Paul Richards and Matt Rolfe at BC preparing to leave for walk out next morning.

  Tuesday, 9 May 1995:

  4:30 am Mark Auricht arrived back at C4, 27 hours after leaving with David H for summit. It was reported by radio by the Basque climbers:
  David had fallen during the previous evening, somewhere between the summit and C4 and had not been since.
  Mark Auricht was at C4 - condition unknown.
  5th Basque was attempting summit today and would be able to report further.

  8:00 am Paul R and Matt R left BC for the walk out, unaware of any of the above events.

  4:30 am Nima (Mike Groom's Sirdar) and Amrit (Australian Expedition Sirdar) returned from the Basque BC, which was further up the mountain than the Australian BC. It should be noted that prior to this, we did not know any of the above events.

  They reported: David H. had fallen and was lost above C4. Mark A was at C4. Chris P was at C3.

  5:30 pm Duncan C, David T and Jo Pearce (friend of David Hume visiting BC) went to the nearby French Base Camp to discuss the situation with Benoir and Pierre, the French climbers who had summited on 7/5/95 and who had radio communication with the Basques on the mountain.

  6:00 pm Scheduled radio call to Basque BC - spoke to the Korean member of their expedition, who spoke good English. No Basque radio at C4.

  He was able to confirm the facts as we, at this stage knew then, but unable to give us any further information, apart from: Chris was unwilling to leave C3.

  Decision by Duncan C, David T and Jo P:

  Wednesday, 10 May 1995:

  9:00 am Duncan C, David T and Jo P returned to French BC. No update from Basques at this stage. Benoir spoke to one of his climbing Sherpas currently at C1. Asked him to go to C3 and talk Chris P into descending. (Facts: Both Mark and Chris had been at altitude too long - several days - needed to descend to prevent medical complications of AMS - acute mountain sickness or altitude sickness. We were concerned the longer they stayed on the mountain alone, the more difficult it would be for them to make the decision to descend. 
          
  Give the radio to Chris and he can talk to Duncan C. who will order him to come down.

  12:30 pm French Climbing Sherpa (radio contact was between C3 and C2, on his descent) reported that he had gone to C3. Chris was unwilling to leave C3 (reason unknown).

  No successful radio communication from C3 due to cloudy conditions. French opinion was that Chris after 5-6 nights at C2 and C3 was suffering AMS.

  2:00 pm Duncan C, David T and Jo P returned to Australian BC. Held meeting with Amrit (Sirdar), Nima (David Groom's Sirdar).


expid: KANG95101
peakid: KANG
year: 1995
route1: SW Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Simone Moro
sponsor: Kangch Crossing Challenge to Kangchenjunga and Yalungkang
countries: Czech Republic
bcdate: 1995-04-04
smtdate: 1995-04-30
termdate: 1995-05-05
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to deep snow
accidents: Nothing
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
campsites:
  BC(04/04,5500m),C1(07/04,6200m),C2(16/04,6900m),C3(28/04,7300m),C4(29/04,7500m),Biv(30/04,8000m),xxx(30/04,8000m)

routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C3 at Great Shelf
  High point at biv.

  30th April stopped because of deep snow (70cm) and above the high point was couloir with avalanche danger. From 4 April to 4 May it snowed every day from 3 pm to evening or midnight. Went above camps nine times trying to make real progress.

  29th April Mondinelli, Galezzi & De Stefani at 7700m to left of classical route 100m under serac (at base of seracs) found body of woman whose left leg from knee and right arm pulled out of socket. Mondinelli thinks she fell from distance - skull missing from eyebrows up and most hair gone (little left was curly light brown). Bulgarian pills found in chest pocket. Mondinelli saw it was a woman: breast flesh was left and waist narrow - leg broken at knee & skull means did not fall with snow avalanche, means fell on rock. Mondinelli found body thinking pink and yellow he saw from distance was a tent and went to look. Body placed in crevasse; nothing taken from it.


  Description of body found by Italians and Michael Groom - 15 May 95

  Her falling down southwest side does not mean she reached summit - difficulties of summit pyramid near one traverse at about 8400m to right to West Ridge and a col there, then up West Ridge to top, traversing rock buttress on southwest side, so "very easy to fall down SW Face - can even get blown down the SW Face."

  Body: [Yordanka Dimitrova or Ekaterina Ivanova from Belarus Aut 94 expedition, or Wanda Rutkiewicz?]


  Simone Moro - 3 April 2007

  Simone Moro says that De Stefani told him that the body was Wanda Rutkiewicz. The body had the right leg missing below the knee, the other leg had a Scarpa boot, and the down suit was pink and yellow matching previous clothing worn by Wanda. It was a woman with curly hair. The body was at 7200m on a snow plateau and appeared to have fallen down from the col that separates the main peak from Yalung Kang. The body was buried in a crevasse by Mondinelli, Galezzi & De Stefani.


  Czech Kangchenjunga Spring 95 from Simono Moro - 15 May 1995

  1/4/95   Established BC - good weather
  5/4/95   Michelangelo Opranos, return to KTM
  7/4/95   Established C1 by Fausto De Stefani, Silvio Mondinelli
  16/4/95  Established C2, time 15:00 by Fausto De Stafani, Silvio Mondinelli, 
           Marco Galezzi
  19/4/95  Mauro Mabellini return to KTM because home program with family
  19/4/95  Idel Corsini (wife of one member) arrive in BC
  28/4/95  Established C3 - 7300m, time 13:30 by Simone Moro, Fausto
           De Stefani, Silvio Mondinell, Marco Galezzi
  29/4/95  Established C4 - 7600m, time 12:30 by Fausto De Stafani, Silvio
           Mondinelli, Marco Galezzi
  29/4/95  Found the body of one women probably Wanda Rutkiewicz, 
           but put it in crevasse
  30/4/95  Carry to 8000m the tent of C4 
           Biv Fausto De Stefani, Silvio Mondinelli, Marco Gallezi
  1/5/95   Fausto De Stefani, Silvio Mondinelli, Marco Gallezi return to BC
  5/5/95   Members leave BC


expid: EVER95112
peakid: EVER
year: 1995
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Robert Hoffman
sponsor: Americans on Sagarmatha 1995
ascent1: 214
countries: Argentina, India
bcdate: 1995-04-13
smtdate: 1995-05-15
smttime: 0800
campsites: BC(13/04,5350m),C1(20/04,5500m),C2(22/04,6650m),C3(25/04,7300m),C4(06/05,7900m),Smt(15/05)
achievment: 1st ascent of Argentinian
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  C1 beyond top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  1st summit bid on 7th May with Hall's team: Scaturro, Demarest, Bull and Bull, Apa, Pemba, Ang Pasang and Tashi Sherpa; got to S Summit at 12:30 pm when decided too late for safe return and wind coming up back to C4 at 7 pm. Had to wait total 4-5 hrs while Hall's team were fixing some of the rope & then getting Chantal Mauduit down narrow part of route. Then all down to BC 9th May.

  2nd bid from Col by B. Bull, Heinrich, Apa, Nima Rita & Arita at 11 pm on 14th, got to top: Bull at 8, Heinrich at 8:10, 3 Sherpas 7:40 am; (6 am at S Summit & took 2 hrs to establish route because of snow. Back to S Col at 1 pm and slept there; BC on 17th, icefall closing day (Sherpas pulling ladders out right behind Burleson team). Price at 7 pm in icefall, members found him and put his warm clothing on him and too tired to bring him down; 2 Sherpas from BC at 7 pm reached him at 9 am and got him to BC 2 am on 7th May.

  This was Nima Rita's 3rd ascent of Everest, Apa's 7th, Arita's 1st (Apa and Arita are brothers).


  Americans on Everest 1995 - Bob Hoffman, leader

  During the next 10 days, the group, consisting of climbers, trekkers, Sherpas, porters and yaks trekked upward toward Everest Base Camp. The trek passed through the mountain villages of Phakding, Jorsale, Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, Pheriche, Dingboche, Lobuche and Gorak Shep. Everyone was picking litter on the trail and carrying it to the next camp; carrying the extra weight was difficult with the altitude, but the result - cleaner trail - made it worth the challenge.

  On April 13th the group, in reasonably good health and excellent spirits, arrived in BC. 
  On the following day, the puja ceremony was performed, a traditional Buddist blessing of the climbers and the expedition. It was an especially auspicious day to hold a puja because the weather was clear and calm - a good omen. Armed with trash bags, the entire group swept the Base Camp area for trash, where they collected 60 kilos of trash left from previous expeditions. 

  During the next  week, eight of the ten members made carries through the icefall to C1. Then, C2 was established and was occupied by the eight members. The team and Sherpas would now begin to make carries to C3. Each day the team would start the climb in the cold and darkness of early morning when the icefall was more stable with less chance of collapse or avalanche. 
  A few days later Guy ventured through the icefall where he stayed at C1.

  Meanwhile, Tommy now recovered began making his way up the mountain. By April 30th, Americans on Sagarmatha continued to be ahead of schedule. Tommy and Guy, now together, moved up to C2 getting accimatized, while the rest of the team headed back to BC for rest and recuperation after seven days at higher altitudes.

  Over the past weeks, the rest of the team had established three camps while carrying numerous loads of supplies and equipment up the mountain. The South Col route, had been climbed four times as the high altitude camps were established.

accidents:
  Price pneumonia; Hoffman bronchitis; Williams gastroentritis & dehydration; Scaturro pneumonia after summit bid & slight frostbite; Demarest bronchitis


expid: EVER95101
peakid: EVER
year: 1995
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Rob Hall
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Everest Expedition
ascent1: 200
countries: France, Japan, Poland, USA
bcdate: 1995-03-21
smtdate: 1995-05-07
smttime: 1330
termdate: 1995-05-11
termnote: Sherpa success only, abandoned by clients due to lack of strength
othersmts: Climbed Makalu (MAKA-951-05) (Hall)
campsites: BC(21/03,5350m),C1(12/04,5899m),C2(14/04,6400m),C3(25/04,7300m),C4(06/05,7900m),Smt(07/05)
accidents: Mauduit very serious altitude sickness; Ulrich broken arm; Popinska bronchitis
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  C1 on edge of top of icefall
  C2 in Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.
  High point [for members] at South Summit.

  Mauduit left C4 with 2 Sherpas at 11:30 pm 6th May; Sotelo, Ward, Hansen, Hall, Viesturs, Cotter, Ang Dorje, Ang Pasang [from Hoffman team], Lobsang Jangbu left C4 at 0:56 am of 7th May - clear weather and no wind. Hoffman party of 9 came just behind - conditions in lower gullies harder snow than usual and rope fixed. Hall group passed Mauduit group at C3 am at 8300m (she without oxygen, Sherpas with so as not to get cold waiting for her). Wind came up at dawn and at SE Ridge, deeper snow and very cold wind blowing snow around; reached here at 8500m at 6:30 am. All ropes below S Summit had to be dug out and some rope replaced. At 8:30 am at 8650m started up steep rock to S Summit and arrived at S Summit at 12:15 pm in chest deep snow on the rock. Cotter and Lobsang Jangbu worked in up fixing rope to Hillary Step while Hall, et al, waited at S Summit (Hoffman party too) to see Cotter progress and decided at 1 pm to cancel bid because too late (Hoffman party made same decision). Lobsang carried on to top at 1:30 pm while all others turned back. All were in C4 by 8:30 pm Mauduit "was turned around" at S Summit at 1:40 pm and collapsed, was given oxygen while drifting in and out of consciousness and lost motor control; was dragged down from S Summit and then supported down, carried and dragged all the way to C4 where she collapsed and went into spasms and was medicated for cerebral edema and on oxygen all the time to bottom of Lhotse Face at 11 am on 8th May and by time back in BC on 9th had fully recovered. All back at BC on 9th, but all clients on this attempt would not have returned alive to C4 if they had continued up; guides & Sherpas would have been OK. 

  Oxygen used:
    Ward from bottom of Lhotse face (6800m)
    Sotelo and Hansen from C3 (sleeping)
    Guides from yellow band (7600m)
    4 Sherpas at and from Col
    Mauduit on descent from S Summit
    Lobsang Jangbu not at all


expid: EVER95109
peakid: EVER
year: 1995
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Todd Burleson
sponsor: 1995 American Everest Exped & 1995 American Lhotse Exped
countries: S Africa
bcdate: 1995-04-10
smtdate: 1995-05-12
termnote: Abandoned at 8500m due to deep snow
othersmts: Attempted Lhotse (LHOT-951-02)
campsites: BC(10/04,5350m),C1(16/04,6000m),C2(18/04,6500m),C3(25/04,7200m),C4(11/05,7900m),xxx(12/05,8500m)
accidents: Berg's fall & Sherpa's death only
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C2 in Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col
  High point at below South Summit.

  Summit bid on 12th May by Athans, Williams, Hanna, Pond, Kammler, Leonard, Fischbeck, Hoffman, Berg, Gyalzen, Tenzing, Gopal Tamang, Kami Rita, Dorje and Nima Tashi. Left C4 at midnight, all together to 8500m when snow became very deep (Hall's rope of few days early under 3 feet of snow) so progress too slow, so turned back at 10:40 am: very apparent not going to summit and safety was imperative. Returned to C4 3:00-5:00 pm. Last summit bid because this was entire team (except for Burleson, who was busy with Sherpa's death) and no strength left.

  Sherpa who died at age 22, very strong C2 assistant & climbing Sherpa to carry loads to C2 when clients not in C2. Was descending from C3 carry when fell: went very fast & not clipped in. Died immediately from "severe head trauma" - fell at 7100m to base of face.

  Berg fell 14th May into last crevasse descending icefall - unconscious for 20 mins. Hall Sherpas helped rescue. Williams down 50 ft into crevasse & got him out with head injuries & broken left wrist - helicoptered from BC.

  Oxygen Used: 
    by all or most members (no Sherpas) sleeping at C3
    by all or most members (no Sherpas) sleeping to C4
    Berg after his fall for at least 24 hrs.


  Mohan Singh, Asian Trekking - 11 June 95

  Bribe demands from HMG official: Indul KC, Under Secy in Tourism in charge of mountaineering, claimed he had "done everything" to get Burleson's permit for Everest this spring and therefore he demanded $5000-$10,000 in cash, camera, video camera and mountaineering equipment. Demands made after Burleson had left for Khumbu - made to Burleson in Khumbu when Indul went to Namche for meeting of Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee and Burleson was returning to KTM from climb. Burleson gave Indul nothing in Khumbu. In KTM Indul pressed the matter, met Burleson in Mustang Hotel, was given a payment (not more than Rs 30,000) and was taken into custody by Special Police.


expid: EVER95114
peakid: EVER
year: 1995
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Jonathan Tinker
sponsor: OTT (Out There Trekking) North Ridge Everest Expedition
ascent1: 210,217,221,222,224
countries: Australia, France, Ireland, Russia, Turkey, USA
smtdate: 1995-05-14
smttime: 0710
campsites: C3(c8200m),Smt(14,17,24,26-27/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Used up every bottle of oxygen with so many summit parties and "Sherpas absolutely exhausted." Hempstead fell on summit ridge 100m below summit, but reached top in his own steam.
   
  OTT charged clients $25,000 each, same as Russell Brice charged. Peak fee paid was $55,000, which is fee for up to 20 members.

accidents:
  Zalokar bronchial sickness; Alen frostbitten fingers but will heal; Smith's lung partly collasped when oxygen ran out on near summit


expid: EVER95104
peakid: EVER
year: 1995
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Paul Pfau
sponsor: American Mount Everest Expedition
ascent1: 209,215
countries: Australia
bcdate: 1995-03-24
smtdate: 1995-05-14
smttime: 0530
campsites: BC(24/03),ABC(09/04),C4(18/04,7000m),C5(27/04,7800m),C6(04/05,8300m),Smt(14,16/05)
accidents: None
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  C4 at North Col
  C5 on North Ridge
  C6 on snowfield below 1st step on North Face.

  Yaks were dumping gear and there was snowfall after BC arrival. 14th summit by 4 members, Kaji, Chhiring and Wangchu. Left C6 at 1:00 am and on top 5:30 am by Mallory, Chhiring, Kaji and Hall 6 am; Litch at 9 am; Aguilar at 9:30 am; Wangchu at 9:15 am and returned to C6 by 9:20 am to 5:30 pm.

  16th summit party 4 members, Jangbu, Phinzo and Karma (Karma back at First Step with stomach trouble); on top Phinzo, Lynch 8 am, Budnick 10 am, Jangbu twice (2nd time from 200 ft below top to help a member) at 10:30 am, Reneker and Jangbu at 11:45 am, Wedberg 12:15 pm; back to C6 1:30 pm to 5 pm.

  Total climb was fixed from bottom of N Col by various teams at various times (Mallory climbed from highest camp to summit in 4 hrs 35 mins, where as most people this season took 6 hrs, says Brice team member.

  Hsieh left team 13 May because Pfau told him he couldn't go higher than N Col as other members didn't have confidence in his judgement and did not want to make summit bid with him. He went to Henry Todd's team to climb with them (Todd said 2 June his group felt sorry for Hsieh and agreed he could climb with them independently but he did not summit).

  Mallory convinced his grandfather reached summit. If Odell correct that he saw George Leigh Mallory at Second Step, it would not have impossible technically for G.L.M. to get to summit even without the ladder everyone uses nowadays. G.L.M. was skilled rock climber; above Second Step no great obstacle and G.L.M. was highly motivated.

  This expedition had a 13th climbing member, David Tollakson of Studio City, Calif, was Reneker's good friend. He died on practice climb with Renekar in US on 9 April 1994 and Renekar carried his ashes to Everest summit. Tollakson had summited highest points on other six continents.

  Sherpa Summiters:
    Kaji (Loding), 32 - speed climber - this his 3rd ascent
    Chhiring = Ongda Chhiring (Dingjung, Makalu area), 25 - 3rd ascent
    Wangchu (Changba Village, Tapting VDC, Solu), 29 - 1st ascent
    Jangbu (Changba Village, Tapting VDC, Solu), 23 - 1st ascent
    Phinzo (Rolwaling), 26 - 3rd ascent (previous ones: US via S Col in 1990 
                          Oct and US via S Col 1993 Spring)


expid: EVER95102
peakid: EVER
year: 1995
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Tadao Kanzaki
sponsor: Nihon University Chomolungma Expedition 1995
ascent1: 201
bcdate: 1995-03-22
smtdate: 1995-05-11
smttime: 0645
accidents: Nomoto 2 frozen toes
achievment: 1st NE Ridge ascent and descent
agency: Rolwaling Trek
campsites:
  BC(22/03,5150m),ABC(31/03,6300m),C4(14/04,7100m),C5(23/04,7850m),C6(09/05,8350m),C7(10/05,8560m),Smt(11/05)

routememo:
  BC at road
  C1 on NE Ridge
  C2 on NE Ridge above rock face and below Pinnacles
  C2 above 3rd Pinnacle and on North Ridge
  C4 below First Step.

  Most difficult part of route between C5 to C6 amongst pinnacles; spent 3 days making route here, fixing 1250m rope here. 11th May up from C6 Nima and Pasang at 3 am (not enough tent space and oxygen for them in C7) & others from C7 at 4 am & arrived at top 6:45 am. Nima and Pasang arrived at top 7 am (1st arrivals spent 1 hour at summit taking photos & collecting rocks; no clouds, no wind (had to hold flags horizontally - flags of 3 countries, university flag & flags & flags of sponsors). Descended NE Ridge to ABC at 6 pm same day & climb finished. General leader & deputy feared accident by other members who in "no good conditions." Had made a camp at North Col (camp NC4) in case of failure on NE Ridge. 
   
  Use of oxygen - used by some sleeping in C4; by all members & Sherpas sleeping in C5 & above C5.

  Summit Sherpas:
    Dawa Tshering - summit Everest with Japan spring 1994 S Pillar (Beding)
    Lhakpa Nuru   - summit Everest 5 times before (Kharikhola)
    Nima Dorje    - summit Everest 4 times before (Beding)
    Pasang Kami   - summit Everest 1 time before (Kharikhola)

  Boardman's body seen atop 2nd Pinnacle at 8200m about 2 meters from Japanese fixed ropes - harness 1m below body - laying face down with right arm outstretched - hair on head not visible: biv sack covering head - through trousers could see hair on leg.

  Sherpa's previous Everest summits:

  Dawa Tshering (Beding)   -  8/5/94 S Pillar - Japanese team
  Lhakpa Nuru (Kharikhola) - 25/2/92 S Pillar - Spanish
                           - 28/9/92 S Col - Italian
                           - 22/4/93 S Col - Nepalese
                           - 9/10/93 N Col - British
                           -  8/5/94 S Pillar - Japanese
  Nima Dorje (Beding)      - 7/10/90 S Col - French
                           - 27/5/91 N Col - Japanese
                           - 16/5/93 S Col - Indian
                           -  8/5/94 S Pillar - Japanese
  Pasang Kami (Karikhola)  - 7/10/93 S Col - British


expid: EVER95105
peakid: EVER
year: 1995
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Marco Bianchi
sponsor: International Mt. Everest Expedition
ascent1: 203 w/Pawl,205
countries: Poland
bcdate: 1995-03-31
smtdate: 1995-05-12
smttime: 1130
campsites: BC(31/03,5500m),ABC(03/04,6300m),C1(17/04,7000m),C2(08/05,7600m),C3(11/05,8200m),Smt(12-13/05)
accidents: Terlikowski thrombosis/phlebitis in leg; Gozdzik pulmonary edema
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Did not try Great Couloir because too little snow. 1st team to arrived at BC with Japanese (22 March), so this team fixed ropes to N Col, so slow progress to Col. Bianchi & Kuntner climbed together, 3 Poles climbed with Pawlowski of Todd Exped. Someone took depot of gear at 7600m which was to be C2 (food, gas, maybe sleeping bags). Were only team not to have Sherpas so perhaps other's Sherpas took it), so no C2 for Poles. Pustelnik to ABC same night (10 pm) & Pawlowski at 7800m 12th & ABC 13th says Pustelnik.


expid: EVER95110
peakid: EVER
year: 1995
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Wilhelm Bauer
sponsor: Everest N Expedition 1995
ascent1: 213
bcdate: 1995-04-11
smtdate: 1995-05-14
smttime: 1830
termdate: 1995-05-22
campsites: BC(11/04),ABC(18/04,6300m),C1(22/04,7000m),C2(25/04,7400m),C3(11/05,8200m),Smt(14/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  13 May Bauer and Franzl summit bid from C3, reached 8600m and turned back because too late 1:00 pm and difficult to biv. Bauer to C3 and Franzl to C2. 

  14 May Hinding and Streif left C3 at 5:00 am, Steif back at 8300m because fingers and toes very cold. Hinding went on to top alone at 6:30 pm as sun was setting "and causing the moon" and down to C3 at midnight. No more summit bids.

accidents:
  Obojes altitude sickness, Bauer phlebitis in right leg on descent from summit bid in ABC; no frostbite


expid: EVER95111
peakid: EVER
year: 1995
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Latvia
leaders: Reinhard Patscheider, Teodor Kirsis
sponsor: International Mountain Climbing (IMC) Everest Expedition
ascent1: 208,212
countries: Italy
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk
bcdate: 1995-04-10
smtdate: 1995-05-14
smttime: 0430
termdate: 1995-05-27
campsites: BC(10/04),ABC(16/04,6450m),C1(25/04,7000m),C2(30/04,7800m),C3(13/05,8300m),Smt(14/05)
accidents: Patscheider head and stomach problems and came to KTM; Pauls kidney problem only
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C2 on North Ridge
  C3 on snow field 200m below North Ridge on North Face.

  [Kirsis and Zauls] 14th May left C3 at 8:30 am, reached top at 3:15 pm and back at C3 at 7 pm having spent 45 mins (without oxygen at the top). 

  16th May summit bid from C3 reached 8500m. Pauls and Tilen Tamang turned back because of problem with both men's [oxygen] sets. 

  17th May Bernans and Buss arrived at C3 to make summit bid, but not enough oxygen and wind and snow had come up and had spent 2 nights at 7800m waiting for Sherpas to bring oxygen.

  Hired:
    Tilen (Tamang?), 27, from Makalu area [most likely Thilen Sherpa from Nurbugaon]

  Patscheider returned to Chinese BC 24 April (from KTM, went twice to N Col including one trip on to 7500m; then 13th May left ABC at 7:30 am, climbed through night (N Col 3 hrs cooking, C2 again 3 hrs cooking), left C2 at 8 pm 13 May and climbed all night, cold slightly windy on ridge, but not too much in moonlight ("nice night") and reached summit at 4:30 am; was entirely alone until joined on top by 1 member of other expedition and 2 Sherpas. Was little bit tired, but returned to ABC at 1 pm 14th May. Fastest ascent of Everest, Patscheider believes (but he started from 6450m whereas Batard from 5350m; Batard had icefall to climb through).


expid: EVER95107
peakid: EVER
year: 1995
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Thor Kieser
sponsor: Condor Adventures Everest N Ridge Expedition
ascent1: 216
countries: Peru
bcdate: 1995-04-07
smtdate: 1995-05-16
smttime: 1000
campsites: BC(07/04),ABC(17/04,6450m),C1(22/04,7000m),C2(01/05,7750m),C3(13/05,8350m),Smt(16/05)
accidents: Caffrey chest infection; Gocking, Tonsing and Kaji frostbite
achievment: Altitude record for under 16 yrs old
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  16 May summit bid by Tonsing at 1:00 am (half-hour before Pfau's party) and Kaji. Pfau's party and they went together soon but later 2 Pfau members and a Sherpa pulled ahead and other came after Tonsing and Kaji (who now made his 1st Everest ascent). Windless and cloudless (clouds later), Tonsing back to C3 on 17th at 10:00 am while Kazi descended to Pfau's camp at 8350m because toes beginning to freeze and he wanted to be with other Sherpas (hadn't wanted to go to summit). Tonsing left summit at 10:50 am was short on oxygen so reduced flow but badly affected performance (i.e., very slow) in descent; oxygen ran out at Second Step, most technical section; made couple of attempts getting on ladder with stiff fingers and start snowing heavily (this was in late afternoon); snow obscured route and he slipped off lodge and fell 10 ft till fixed rope held him but a hidden fixed rope caught right leg and took 30 minutes to disentangle; at 5:00 pm decided to biv in hole which left his knees to toes not in it and by morning toes freezing (Kotov of OTT gave Sherpas and oxygen to help); down to ABC same day. Other members and Sherpas were at N Col and told by radio that Tonsing was "half dead" so aborted their own ascent and "poured all resources into rescue" with Dorr and Gocking and 3 Sherpas with use of oxygen to meet Tonsing while Kieser and Straskroba down to ABC to prepare med tent; Gocking party met Tonsing at C2 and found him doing well, so went on up without down clothes; Dorr to 8300m and down while Gocking and Moti Lal Gurung tried for top 19 May from C3 but bid wind, reached 8600+, turned back and returned to C3. Kieser and Straskroba tried later but got no higher than C2 19 May and climb finished.

  15 yr old member Pfetzer reached 7300m [+ got tired, he said].

  Henry Todd 2 June said Tonsing made his high biv thinking he was setting a high altitude record for bivouacs on Everest. Russell Brice on 6 June agrees. Tonsing was slapped with a bill from Brice and Jon Tinker for rescue operation which pulled 3 Sherpas off their climbs to summit and required 3 bottles of oxygen for Tonsing; bill totalled $2000 (3 Sherpas summit bonuses @$200, 3 bottles of oxygen @$350 and cost of lifting the oxygen to high camp). Tonsing considered to have behaved in bizarre fashion by other climbers.


expid: EVER95108
peakid: EVER
year: 1995
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience 8000 to Everest
ascent1: 219,223
countries: Australia, Canada, Finland, France, New Zealand, Romania, USA
bcdate: 1995-04-09
smtdate: 1995-05-17
smttime: 1400
campsites: BC(09/04),ABC(14/04,6400m),C1(20/04,7000m),C2(01/05,7800m),C3(15/05,8200m),Smt(17,26/05)
accidents: Jones intestinal problem
achievment: 1st Romanian to top
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C2 at top of snow ridge.

  "It was incredible weather." Most on top in middle of month; winds came up on 18th but dropped again on 22nd and "you could probably climb it now." 1st attempt from top camp by Brice on 16th and turned back at 1st Step, moving very slowly in fresh snow, had left camp later but beautiful weather. 

  17th 1 am Lacatusu, Clemenson and Chuldim Sherpa set out for top; Clemenson turned back only few meters and too cold; Chuldim stopped above 1st Step to help Tony Tonsing; descended with Sherpa from OTT (and Sherpas lost their summit bid) and Lacatusu to top at 2 pm; started down at 2:15 pm and returned to C3 at 8:00 pm; oxygen had run out during ascent at Second Step. 

  Next summit bid delayed by strong winds. 26th May Brice, Child, Whittaker, Karsang (Ang Rita's son) and Lobsang left at midnight (25th/26th); at 4:30 am at 8500m reassessed situation and Whittaker (with artificial leg) turned back; slow ascent, fixed ropes in condition, head lamps had failed; Brice back with him but Child and Karsang and Lobsang carried on up and reached top at 10:00 am; caught up with Tinker's summit party. A Tinker member slid towards edge but somehow stopped, Child pulled out old fixed rope and so did Tinker Sherpa Ang Babu; they pulled him back to route and he went to top in state of shock. "North side is a poor one for me" says Whittaker because loose surface he is not good on. 

  27th May Valanne reached 2nd Step and then turned back with problem with crampon, oxygen ran out and he was slow.

  Sherpas: 
    Karsang, son of Ang Rita, 1971, lives in Thami
    Lobsang Temba, 1968, lives in Khumjung

  Fee for peak: $5500.


expid: EVER95103
peakid: EVER
year: 1995
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Taiwan
leaders: Liang Ming-Pen
sponsor: 1995 Mt. Everest Expedition
ascent1: 204
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk (returned to Lhasa)
bcdate: 1995-03-23
smtdate: 1995-05-12
smttime: 1130
campsites: BC(23/03),ABC(08/04,6500m),C1(20/04,7000m),C2(23/04,7900m),C3(30/04,8300m),Smt(12/05)
accidents: None
achievment: 1st Han Chinese woman and 1st Taiwanese
agency: Surya Travel
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C2 on North Face
  C3 just below North Ridge before 1st Step.

  Were expedition's 1st team to go to ABC, many crevasses between BC & ABC so yaks could not go there, took time to establish ABC. 1st summit bid was on 12th May: left C3 2:40 am, on summit 11:30-11:45 am, before one European, whom they met a second step at 1-1:30 pm; returned to C2 9 pm. 12 oxygen bottles stolen from C3 before summit bid leaving only 12 for Taiwanese. Summit party's Taiwanese: only used to sleep in C3 on oxygen on climb to top. Taiwanese only used oxygen till last 1 hour when Mingma also used it; used down as far as C3 only. Miss Chiang; "not so difficult but some places very dangerous." On descent Tenzing slipped below 2nd step but Miss Chiang caught him & he was okay. All climbing members reached N Col. Only one summit attack because so little oxygen.

  Oxygen used only by Chen & Chiang sleeping in C3 & climbing above C3; Mingma Tshering only climbing near summit (last 1 hr of ascent); Lhakpa none, Tenzing none.

  Summit Sherpas: 
    Mingma Tshering, 24, Rolwaling 
    Lhakpa Dorje, 29, Kurima (see note with EVER-961-04)
    Tenzing, 25, Namche


expid: EVER95106
peakid: EVER
year: 1995
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Kazbek Khamitsayev
sponsor: N Ossetian Himalayan Expedition Everest 1995
ascent1: 202,207
bcdate: 1995-04-04
smtdate: 1995-05-11
smttime: 1800
campsites: BC(04/04),ABC(09/04,6250m),C1(19/04,7000m0,C2(23/04,7550m),C3(09/05,8200m),Smt(11,13/05)
accidents: Nothing serious
achievment: 1st Ossetian summiter; 2nd oldest summiters
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Did not go to N Face because were delayed for 7 days at Zangmu by avalanches on the road; now not enough time left to go to face. After C2 made, very bad weather with very strong winds. 11th May team C3 10:30 am & on summit 6 pm & return C3 10 pm; were 1st summiters via normal route of all expeditions. Very deep snow on traverse from 2nd step & this very dangerous. 13th May left C3 8:30 am & on top 4 pm & C3 8:30 pm in very good weather (1-1/2 hours to top taking photos). Ang Rita very strong climber. Not more on summit because had not planned to go to this route, some inexperienced in high mountains & not enough oxygen (had 30 bottles total).


expid: EVER95113
peakid: EVER
year: 1995
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Henry Todd
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Everest Tibet 1995
ascent1: 203,211,218,220
countries: Brazil, Denmark, France, Ireland, Kazakhstan, Poland, Russia
bcdate: 1995-04-15
smtdate: 1995-05-12
smttime: 1130
accidents: Nothing except Todd's back out again
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(15/04),ABC(19/04,6450m),C1(22/04,7000m),C2(01/05,7800m),C2(08/05,7600m),C3(11/05,8200m),Smt(12,14,17,23/05)

routememo:
  C1 at North Col.

  A later C2 pitched at 7600m on 8/9th May because long way from N Col to 7800m, but this 7800m camp kept and called C2 1/2. 17th May from C3 2 am (Boukreev without oxygen), Ratcliffe and Sitnikov, reached top at 8:30 am (Ratcliff) Sitnikov at 12 noon and Boukreev at 9:30 am and waited at and near summit 2-1/2 hrs for team's client Sitnikov at 12 (no frostbite); somewhat windy; Ratcliffe to 7800m at 1 pm; Russians to C3 at 3 pm. 

  23 May Jones and Jorgensen left C3 at 4 am, on top 1 pm together and back to C3 6 pm. Had been very windy on 21st and 22nd, so waited 2 days for improved weather: less wind and rather warm. 

  Chappaz tried for top from C3 on 21 May without oxygen; left C3 1:30 am, lost fixed rope, headlamp malfunctioned, waited for dawn and returned to C3, down farther on 22nd. No other attempts.
   
  Oxygen: Chappaz and Boukreev none at all; others: some at 7600m and above, others at 7800m or even 8200m and above.

  Jinx against commercial team's clients summiting broken by the lovely weather from 11th May and decision to go for it quickly. Had hoped for stable weather at full moon time (moon was full on 14th), and people and supplies were ready. When Japanese and even Taiwanese suceeded on 11th, everyone determined they could too. Pawlowski, who paid to be a member of this expedition, was 1st client to top.

  Charles Hsieh of Pfau's expedition joined Todd's team as an independent climber (not formal member).


expid: EVER94312
peakid: EVER
year: 1994
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Takashi Miyahara
sponsor: Miyahara-Nukita Expedition to Everest
ascent1: 198
bcdate: 1994-08-27
smtdate: 1994-10-10
smttime: 1155
campsites: BC(27/08),C1(15/09,6000m),C2(18/09,6400m),C3(02/10,7200m),C4(06/10,7900m),Smt(10/10)
accidents: Chuwang Nima Sherpa frostbite slight on 1 toe; Miyahara's temporary blindness in one eye
agency: Trans Himalayan Trekking (THT)
routememo:
  Thamserkhu Trekking said would make route through icefall by 1 Sept but started to make it on 1st. This delay bothersome because Japanese wanted summit in Sept. Delayed C4 by winds which started 1 Oct. Spent 5 nights at C4. 9th Oct could have summited but 1 Sherpa not well & went down & 2 others came up from C2. Japanese left C4 10:30 pm 9th Oct (2 Japanese & 6 Sherpas left Col for summit) & had to wait 30 mins on SE Ridge for 2 Sherpas who left C4 at 11 am. 6:30 am at col beyond S Summit Miyahara said could not see from his right eye (it's pupil white) & route condition bad, brittle ice, easy to break on surface. Miyahara decided to go down & 3 Sherpas went with him while Nukita continued up with 3 other Sherpas. At one point Sherpas didn't want to go to top but Apa changed his mind & went up after all despite strong wind & on top 11:55 am. Nukita & Miyahara left C4 together on 11th. Miyahara eyesight better on return to C4 & all night in BC.

  Miyahara - 20 Oct 94: Max altitude reached 8793m=South Summit; right eye started failing at about 8500m & blind by S Summit; cause unknown, perhaps first time this has happened to a mountaineer; at C4 on descent better; at C2 normal.

  Oxygen used:
    Miyahara: in C2 & climbing up from 7000m, sleeping in higher camps & descending to C2.
    Nukita: sleeping in C3 & C4, climbing above & back to C3.
    Sherpas: 2 in C3 & all in C4 & above it (waiting 2 nights)

  Sherpas: 
    Apa, 37, Thami, Everest summit 5X before this one
    Chuwang Nima, 22, Thami, Everest once before
    Dawa Tshering, 28, Thami, this his 1st 8000er


expid: EVER94302
peakid: EVER
year: 1994
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Simon Currin
sponsor: British Mount Everest Medical Expedition 1994
ascent1: 199
countries: USA
bcdate: 1994-08-22
smtdate: 1994-10-11
campsites: BC(22/08),C1(06/09,5950m),C2(18/09,6440m),C3(22/09,7100m),C4(25/09,7900m),Smt(11/10)
accidents: Robb mild stroke
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 just below start of West Cwm
  C2 in Cwm
  C3 never slept in
  C4 at Col.

  C4 1st occupied by members 6 Oct and spent 1 night only. Then 3 back up on 10th and summit by Kirkwood and Hornsby while Hargreaves waited a day and lost her chance. Snow conditions good, but winds started on 1 Oct.

  Dorje: Everest 4 times before now (including Bell's Exped 1993)
  Dawa Temba: Everest once before

  Hargreaves: reached 8400m in 5 hrs climb from C4 and turned back when feet began getting numb.


expid: EVER94303
peakid: EVER
year: 1994
route1: N Rib-W Ridge
nation: Norway
leaders: Jon Gangdal
sponsor: Norweigian Everest Expedition 1994
bcdate: 1994-08-23
smtdate: 1994-09-07
termnote: Abandoned at 7060m due to dangerous avalanche conditions and Sherpa death
campsites: BC(23/08),ABC(27/08,5600m),C1(30/08,5900m),C2(06/09,6700m),xxx(07/09,7060m)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  BC at road
  C1 at foot of North Rib
  C2 on North Rib.

  1st heavy snowfall came on 8-9th Sept & all in C2 down; after snow stopped, on 12th Sept started up again (as did all other expeditions). 12th 6 Sherpas & 3 members from C1 reached C2 at 11:30 am, rested & stored gear; at 12 noon 4 Sherpas went up to fix rope above C2, pulling rope from snow & reached 50+ meters above C2 when 2m deep slab avalanche came down, burying Mingma Norbu, who apparently was not properly attached to fixed line; others were not buried. One hour after accident started snowing again & snowed for 3 days. This combined with loss of Mingma led to decision to abandon climb. Big avalanche from Changtse & another big one from N Col on 14th were expecially alarming. Body cremated at old Rongbuk 13th. LO said team could go to other route or some to join other teams, but no one wanted to continue & advice from sponsors was to stop in such dangerous conditions. Were very fit had came as a team & wanted to leave as a team. "As a climb this was a fiasco but as a human experience it was marvelous"; close knit group of Norweigians & Sherpas.


  But Everest was Stronger - by Jon Gangdal
  (Received from Gangal - 14 March 1995)

  "We have had an accident. A major avalanche has swept right over us. Four Sherpas were taken by the avalanche, and a fifth has lost one of his fingers."

  The message came clear and slowly over the radio from C2 at 6600m. It could not be mistaken. Everything had seemed so perfect, the expedition was experiencing great progress on the mountain, but everything had turned upside down within seconds and a major tragedy had happened. Mingma Norbu Sherpa was shortly found dead in the avalanche at the bottom of the mountain, 700m further down from C2. He left behind a pregnant women and two children, two years and five years old.

  We had set us a very ambitious goal. The West Ridge on Mount Everest (8848m) from Tibet. One of the by far hardest and toughest routes on the worlds highest mountain. The route had been attempted by a dozen earlier expeditions. Only one had succeeded. That was during the spring. We were going to try the route during the autumn, and thereby write another proud chapter in Norwegian Himalaya history.

  We knew very well that our attempt could be very dangerous, like all climbing in the Himalayas. For that reason we had gone through 3 years of very thorough preparations and taken as many precautions as humans can take. This had made the Norwegian Everest Expedition to Norway's largest climbing expedition ever, with 22 Norwegian climbers - 20 men and 2 women, 15 Sherpas and close to 10 tons of food and equipment.

  Ahead of Schedule

  When the accident and tragedy struck the expedition, the expedition had reached every goal up to that point. We were considerably ahead of schedule, thanks to two very strong teams who had during the course of less than one week, managed to fix ropes and carry equipment above the first magic point of 7000m. At the same time a dozen Norwegians and Sherpas were working on carrying food and equipment from Advance Base Camp (5600m) up to C1 at 5900m, which were located by the foot of the mountain.

  24 hours of continous snowfall put a temporary stop on the record breaking progress. At that time all the climbers who were evaluated to be in good enough form had spent a least one night in C2 at 6600m. The few who were still fighting the after effects from high altitude sickness, flue and colds, were on their way to full recovery. The team was doing very well.

  After some discussion we had reached an agreement regarding progress on the mountain. The climbers literally queued up in order to help out on the mountain. Even the most pessimistic climbers started to believe that we would reach the summit.

  A Beautiful Day

  The third day after the snowfall, Monday Sept 12th was a cold beautiful day. Three Norwegians and six Sherpas were on the ropes before 8 am and made good progress towards C2, even though they had to plow their way at times in knee-deep snow. But even though the snow was deep in certain places, it appeared solid and not very likely to start any avalanches.

  The plan was to reach 7350m that afternoon and establish C3 on the top of the West Shoulder. The Norwegians and two Sherpas were to stay there overnight and to stretch climing ropes along the west ridge the following day. The four other Sherpas were going to return to C1.

  It were these four Sherpas who started climbing from C2 after a short break with juice and chocolate. Three of the Sherpas were tied to the ropes. The fourth was a short distance behind and was just about to tie himself on the to the ropes when a major roar suddenly interrupted the silence on the mountain and massive amounts of snow thundered towards the climber.

  The ones who were still in C2 saw that the avalanche had started far to the left of the Sherpas. For a moment they hoped that the snow would avoid the four Sherpas. This did not happen. They last they could see was a chaos of snow, arms and legs rushing past the point where they were staying. The avalanche also swept over the ones who were still in the C2. Luckily they managed to hold on to the ropes.

  Despiration

  The complete silence which always follows immediately after huge avalanches was very brief. The Sherpas very quickly became aware of what happened and cried and yelled in desperation over the fact that they had lost one of their closest friends and family member.

  We found Mingma under only 20 cm of snow. He was probably killed instantly during the fall down the 700m high mountain side. Thanks to his very strong Sherpa friends we were able to carry him all the way down to BC the following day.

  While the rescue work continued on the mountain, relatives, sponsors and media in Norway were informed through our satellite telephone. Mingma's relatives in Kathmandu were informed. The only ones who didn't get any information before one week after the avalanche were Mingma's pregnant wife and two children. This is the time it took Mingma's brother to travel from Base Camp to Mingma's hometown Rolwaling which is four days by foot from Kathmandu.

  At that time a husband and father to two beautiful daughters had been ashes for six days. The day after the avalanche Mingma was according to Buddhist customs cremated in a monastery a couple of kms below BC.

  Postpone or continue the expedition?

  Before our departure from Norway we had discussed what we should do in the situation where someone died on the mountain. Nobody had been able to give an unambiguous answer. The most important elements with such discussions is not to draw the most substantial conclusions but rather be able to think through unpleasant and frightening approaches. This is one of the critical elements in the mental preparations to risky projects. We decided to divide the discussions in two faces. First it was important to evaluate all sides with the accident. Then we waited for one day, in order to reach a conclusion of postponing or continuing the expedition. There were mixed reactions. Nobody wanted to continue on the West Ridge, but about 50% of the climbers wanted to explore the possibility of climbing other routes on Everest, or other adjacent mountains. The rest wanted to postpone the expedition and go home. As a climber I wanted to continue along another route. As the expeditions leader I concluded differently.

  "Our common goal was to climb Everest along the West Ridge. We can choose another route and in many ways reach our goal. But based on the worsening conditions we have concluded that this could above be very dangerous. We cannot afford yet another accident. To let someone climb another and lower mountain is too far away from our original goal, and will therefore not add any additional value to the expedition. In many ways it would be the opposite, it would split the expedition. We left Norway as a team, and should therefore return as a team. I have therefore decided to postpone the expedition at this time and go home.

  Four days later the whole Lhotse Face came down in one enormous avalanche. It happened in the middle of the night, at 00:30 am and the avalanche was so strong that people woke up in their tents because of the air pressure reaching Base Camp, 17 kilometers away.

  The day before one climber almost was hit by an avalanche coming down the West Face of Changtse.

  After this, we did not regret to much our decision fo postponing the expedition.

accidents:
  Ang Temba's finger end cut off by taut rope at time 4 others were hit by avalanche; Mingma Norbu killed by avalanche


expid: EVER94307
peakid: EVER
year: 1994
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Daniel Petraud
sponsor: Autsime Everest
bcdate: 1994-09-03
smtdate: 1994-09-04
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to too much deep snow
campsites: BC(03/09),C1(06/09,5850m),ABC(07/09,6400m),C2(09/09,7000m),xxx(17/09,7500m)
accidents: Besson sick (altitude? psychology?) & left early; nothing serious
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at road
  ABC at East Rongbuk at southwest bottom of Changtse
  C2  at North Col (from east).

  16th Sept on 3rd trip to N Col found all tents covered by snow but could dig them out & sleep there. 17th went to 7500m for 2nd time but again only deposited supplies there for snow above knee-deep & very tired. Returned to ABC & now clients no longer interested in climb, had no patience to wait for good weather.

  7500m reached:  
     4th Sept - Doligez, Nima Gambu, Mingma Chiring, Nawang Tenzing
    10th Sept - Petraud & Mingma Chiring
    17th Sept - Petraud, Doligez and 6 Sherpas

  No clients went more than 100m above N Col.


expid: EVER94305
peakid: EVER
year: 1994
route1: N Face
nation: Czechoslovakia
leaders: Josef Rakoncaj
sponsor: Czech Everest Expedition 1994
countries: Italy
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 1994-08-30
smtdate: 1994-09-10
termdate: 1994-09-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to bad weather and lack of time
campsites: BC(30/08,5200m),ABC(01/09,5600m),C1(03/09,6100m),C2(07/09,7050m),xxx(26/09,7300m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: In Wilderness (Kunga)
routememo:
  C1 at bottom of North Face
  C2 on North Face well southwest of Great Col
  High point at North Face.

  From 10th to 11th Sept much snowfall. 3 members left early: De Stefani had lecture program; Nezerka bored & thinking of responsibilities in Czech Rep; Sedlackova same. Climbers now expect faster action on a mountain. Not above 7300m because stopped fixing rope that day & then snowfall began; 26th Sept: old fixed rope had been lost in avalanching as was gear left there by earlier group. Now finished because permit only to 29-30 Sept & jeep ordered for 29th at BC. Also discouraging more climbing was early morning avalanching off Changtse on 4th Sept. Czechs took longer route to left of direct line because De Stefani had experience on face & thought it safer & easier (no longer needed to C2 on Czech's route).

  Team had only 6 climbing members and after 2 left early (they arrived KTM 22 Sept) only 4 Czechs, no Sherpas to climb mountain.


expid: EVER94310
peakid: EVER
year: 1994
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Indonesia
leaders: Anton Patandung
sponsor: PPGAD Everest Expedition
bcdate: 1994-09-15
smtdate: 1994-10-06
termdate: 1994-10-09
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to lack of strength
campsites: BC(15/09),C1(17/09,5800m),C2(20/09,6300m),C3(30/09,7400m),xxx(06/10,7900m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Kailash Journeys Treks
routememo:
  C1 in Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  High point at South Col.

  Went to BC slowly to acclimatize and went to Kalapattar; did not sleep at S Col: "many many wind, no good place." Japanese stayed there but Indonesians not acclimatized well enough and Sherpas had headaches so slept in C3. Stayed there in C2 2 nights and 8th Oct up to C3 but 9th down because not enough oxygen left, members tried so went to BC and climb finished because members had no strength for another attempt.

  British and French expedition's leaders and summiter of Japanese team very much doubt Indonesians got to S Col but are confident their Sherpas did. British said Sherpas reported their "clients" turned back at C3.


expid: EVER94308
peakid: EVER
year: 1994
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Rogelio Recio
sponsor: Aragon Expedition Everest 1994
bcdate: 1994-09-04
smtdate: 1994-09-25
termdate: 1994-10-07
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to winds
othersmts: Lhagba Peak (7050m)
campsites: BC(04/09,5200m),ABC(13/09),C1(17/09,7050m),C2(23/09,7800m),xxx(25/09,8300m)
accidents: Nothing very serious
agency: Ama Dablam Trekking
routememo:
  4 climbing members reached only 7900m on 23 Sept. Only Sherpas went higher fixing rope to 8300m.

  Sports Activities :

  The Camp Base was installed at 5200m on the 4th of September.

  The 13th of September the ABC was installed. C1 was installed at 7050m at the north Col, on 17th of Sept.

  The C2 was installed on the 23rd of Sept at 7800m on the North NE Ridge.

  On the next days fixed ropes was fixed on the ridge onto 8300m. Been impossible to install C3 due to the strong wind at this altitude, the expedition was forced down to ABC.

  Due to changing weather conditions (windy and stormy) and that the autumn came before its time, the members [saw it ]was impossible to press higher than 7400m, then the expedition made the decision to retire from the mountain.

  The 4th of Oct with a little change in the weather conditions, 4 members of the team and sirdar Dorje Sherpa, climbed the Lhakpa Peak (7045m) located northeast of Everest. The 10th of Oct, the team left the ABC and the 15th the team left the BC, arriving in Kathmandu on the 18th of October.

  Scientific Activities:

  During the expedition, the team had collected (picked up), geological samples, Botanic samples and Water samples (from the different Glacier Rivers) for its study and analysis in differents institutes of the CSICC.


expid: EVER94304
peakid: EVER
year: 1994
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Sergei Efimov
sponsor: Irkutsk Himalaya Expedition Everest 1994
bcdate: 1994-08-29
smtdate: 1994-10-11
termdate: 1994-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to strong cold winds
campsites: BC(29/08),ABC(04/09,6300m),C1(08/09,7000m),C2(23/09,7800m),C3(25/09,8200m),xxx(11/10,8300m)
accidents: Krivocheev slight frostbite; Efimov had no strength from cold or what?
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C2 at North Ridge
  C3 at North Face
  High point at North Face.

  4 and 9 Oct parties tried to go to summit but no success. 9th Oct 9 people to C2 and 10th 4 of them slept in C3. 11th no communication with 4-man party and 2 from below tried to meet them but very strong wind at 7500m to 8000m. The 4 stayed 2 nights in C2, moving it to 8300m. 13th communication established and highest team advised to come down as temperature had suddenly dropped and winds continued and slowly party descended to North Col as dark was falling and 14th to ABC. 15th yaks arrived BC. 

  10 strong climbers and plenty of supplies but winds and cold.


expid: EVER94311
peakid: EVER
year: 1994
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Kaji Sherpa
sponsor: Nepalese Speed Expedition to Everest
bcdate: 1994-09-24
smtdate: 1994-10-11
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to cold wind & bad weather
campsites: BC(24/09),C2(02/10,6500m),C4(10/10,7900m),xxx(11/10,8300m)
accidents: Lhakpa frostbitten toes & fingers all black
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  High point on SE Ridge.

  Summit attempt from BC at 4:00 pm 10 Oct arrive C4 1:00 am 11 Oct and 400m above Col and then "many winds" at 7:00 am and turned back and descended to BC same day. 2 teammates sent up with supplies to C4 on 28 Sept but one got frostbite at C3 on 29th so they down to BC and which reached BC 3 Oct and helicoptered to KTM. Mingma again up to Col on 10 Oct before Kaji. Mingma had not left at C3 as requested Kaji's climbing suit so Kaji arrived at Col only in cotton shirt (though had enough energy to climb and through night to C3 without climbing suit - arrived C3 at 9:30 pm). Climbing suit was at Col and put it on and got into sleeping bag for an hour to get warm. Main reason for failure was his being cold as he did not wear climbing suit from BC because it weighs 1 kg.

  Wants to try again next spring.

  Japanese Nukita said 20 Oct that Nepalese used other people's tents.


expid: EVER94306
peakid: EVER
year: 1994
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Bernard Muller
sponsor: Group on UK Medical Everest Expedition permit
countries: Belgium, Portugal
bcdate: 1994-09-02
smtdate: 1994-10-11
termdate: 1994-10-12
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to wind
campsites: BC(02/09),C1(12/09,6000m),C2(18/09,6400m),C3(25/09,7100m),C4(07/10,7900m),xxx(11/10,7900m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  "There were 2-3 days of no wind but in these days we were not in the right place, maybe we make a mistake not to try before 1st Oct, but we didn't have oxygen at S Col." Weather was very fine in late Sept.

  1st night slept at South Col was 11 Oct (La Ferriere, Hubert, Muller, Pacheco and Renard and 4 Sherpas (Sonam Dendu, Nawang Pura/Phura, 2 others)). During night of 11th tent broken by wind and no one went above Col but all descended to C2 and climb finished.


expid: EVER94309
peakid: EVER
year: 1994
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Peter Kowalzik
sponsor: International Mountain Climbing (IMC) Everest Expedition
countries: Austria, Bolivia, Indonesia, Switzerland, USA
bcdate: 1994-09-11
smtdate: 1994-09-28
termdate: 1994-10-13
termnote: Abandoned at 8200m due to winds
campsites: BC(11/09),ABC(15/09,6470m),C1(18/09,7070m),C2(23/09,7800m),C3(28/09,8200m),xxx(28/09,8200m)
accidents: Guarachi bronchitis stopped his climbing; nothing else
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at road
  C1 at North Col
  C2 on North Ridge
  C3 on North Ridge.

  Winds started 30th Sept. On 27th Kawalzik & Guarachi tried to go to top from ABC, which left 9 am, reached C2 5 pm, stayed 4-1/2 hours & 9:30 pm left C2 to go to top, reached 8050m & returned (Kowalzik too cold & Guarachi feared too deep snow for a person to climb alone) back to C2 1 am 28th. 

  28th 10:00 am same 2 members & 4 Sherpas left C2 again pitched C3 but all except Guarachi down to ABC & no one in C2. Guarachi now wanted to attempt summit alone but next morning decided to descend because didn't like avalanching on N Face's middle where 1 km wide avalanche down on 30th. 

  No one ever again reached C3 & only Kowalzik, Guarachi & 3 Sherpas reached C2 on 10th Oct. Winds so strong couldn't move without using fixed ropes from N Col up.

  4 members left expedition on 2 Oct: 1 was sick, others no longer motivated?


expid: EVER94301
peakid: EVER
year: 1994
route1: N Face (Great Couloir)
nation: USA
leaders: Tony Lewis
sponsor: 1994 Everest Razor's Edge Expedition
bcdate: 1994-08-18
smtdate: 1994-10-19
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to wind, cold & snow fatigue
campsites: BC(18/08),ABC(22/08,5500m),C1(04/09,6000m),C2(25/09,6950m),C3(06/10,7590m),xxx(19/10,8300m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Above the Clouds
routememo:
  BC at road
  C1 at bottom of North Face
  C2 on North Face directly below Great Couloir
  C3 at bottom of Great Couloir
  High point at yellow Band in ascent couloir.

  10-23 Sept really bad weather with avalanching. Tried to go for summit 3 times from C3 but only on third attempt actually got out of it & above C3 (1st 2 times were 7-8 Oct & 12-13 Oct). Winds stopped both of these attempts & defeated 3rd one on 19th Oct.

  Route basically same as Australians "White limbo" route with variation to left to C2.


expid: EVER94201
peakid: EVER
year: 1994
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Nick Banks
sponsor: Himalayan Kingdoms Everest Expedition 1994
countries: Australia, Denmark, New Zealand
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 1994-06-12
smtdate: 1994-07-23
termnote: Abandoned at 8200m due to snow conditions & clients lack of strength
campsites: BC(12/06),ABC(17/06,6200m),C1(29/06,7000m),C2(03/07,7500m),C2(06/07,7500m),xxx(23/07,8200m)
routememo:
  BC at road
  C1 at North Col
  C2 on North Face to right of ridge.

  Weather perfect all through time (no snow fall, no wind including no snow from top, no afternoon clouds, "just clean blue skies") but July had typical monsoon weather. C2 moved 300m up because its site too exposed to avalanching that could come at any time. Snowing every afternoon & trail at 8100-8200m but couldn't find safe-protected site for it [C3] on 23 July. "Just too risky" to put on open face. Another problem was that client Bager was very tired & could not have gone to top next day. No other members at all strong enough for very high altitude. Totally unrealistic for any of these clients to be on Everest except Bager, who could have made summit via S Col route. Bager only competent climber amongst clients.

  Banks on 29 July in bed in North Wales - still had no feeling on right side and will take time for destroyed nerve endings to grow back. He came to KTM on 19th, flew to UK on 22nd and spent 4 days in hospital.

  Peter came to KTM 28 July with baggage and Sherpas. Other members fly from Lhasa to KTM 2 Aug.

accidents:
  Banks developed every serious hemoglobin problem in which blood not supplying capillaries: lost feeling on right side and veins swelled; Buckton altitude sickness


expid: EVER94101
peakid: EVER
year: 1994
route1: N Face (Great Couloir) (to 8000m)
route2: N Col-N Ridge-N Face (to 8685m)
nation: Canada
leaders: Jamie Clarke, Alan Hobson
sponsor: Emergo Mt. Everest Expedition
bcdate: 1994-03-08
smtdate: 1994-05-25
termdate: 1994-05-29
termnote: Abandoned at 8685m due to need to save McIsaac which had exhausted everyone
accidents: Clarke bad sinuitis from BC; McIsaac nearly died of altitude sickness; Brown altitude sickness
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
campsites:
  BC(08/03),C3.ABC(29/03,6550m),C4A(02/04,7000m),C5A(12/04,7590m),C6A(28/04,8000m),xxx(8000m);
  C5B(19/05,7800m),C6B(24/05,8200m),xxx(25/05,8685m)

routememo:
  BC at road
  C at North Col
  C at bottom of Great Couloir under rocks and well protected
  C in Couloir (not actually occupied)
  C on North Ridge.

  Acclimatized for 3 weeks in BC area, which was good for psychology but not physiologically, especially for Sherpas who were no longer interested in high climbing after months at the mountain. Had two camps between BC & ABC, one of which was only temporory. Camp "2" at 20,000 ft was kept through the climb. 1st went to Great Couloir via traverse across couple of deeper gullies, taking 4-1/2 hours to cross, very tiring. In gullies protected from winds but were avalanches. C6 not occupied: Bilodeau & Lhakpa Sonam went to C5A on 13th May enroute to occupy C6A & started fixing yellow band above it. But heavy snowfall started on 14th & wind loading more snow in gullies on traverse. Ventured out of C5A to tent snow conditions on 15th & found they were setting off slab avalanches. Finally on 17th started down when avalanching struck them, in one Bilodeau entirely covered & by time they got down they were "totally freaked out" and Lhakpa never returned to the climb. 

  Route immediately changed route with Simonson's segment & used up a lot of energy carrying up Simonson's oxygen to classical route. Now very strong winds hammered C5B which is terrible place to be. Hobson, Clarke & McIsaac occupied 5B on 19th & got stuck there 3 nights by winds. Hobson & Clarke kept McIsaac well fed & on 23rd May then two went down leaving McIsaac to try summit with Brown, who reached 5B on 25th; 24th McIsaac & Brown made C6B & on 25th went for top 45 mins after Swenson. They left 6B at 3:45 am & never caught up with Swenson. Brown reached top of 1st step at c8500m while McIsaac reached 8685m, third step now he reached he was losing control, could hardly stand up & getting tunnel vision. He soon lost a crampon & fingers freezing while coped with crampon. Clarke told him to use emergency oxygen in his pack (2.75 kg small bottle) & this brought him around. Brown in his descent left his small oxygen at bottom of 1st step for McIsaac & used other bottle in C6B to warm himself there while waiting for McIsaac. McIsaac didn't find bottle & suddenly unable to move well but crossed yellow band but very slowly with long rests. Finally joined Brown in 6B just before sunset. 40 mins later his lungs filled with fluid, wind howling & very cold so not evacuated till next morning when Brice's Sherpas arrived from C4 in 4 hrs. He had been using oxygen given to him by Rheinberger before he left for top, leaving McIsaac again very sick & was expected to die in few minutes. Decided to move him down immediately in Gamov bag & stream of climbers with headlamps moved up to help carry him down. Got him to ABC at 2 am on 27th found him really more dead than alive but IV fluid, oxygen, & antibiotics & strepcils & lower altitude brought him back to life. Took 3 days before he could sit up.


expid: EVER94110
peakid: EVER
year: 1994
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Giuliano De Marchi
sponsor: Everest 1994 Valasassina Expedition
bcdate: 1994-04-01
smtdate: 1994-05-19
termdate: 1994-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 8650m due to lack of time
accidents: De Marchi frostbitten toes & fingers; nothing else
agency: In Wilderness (Kunga)
campsites:
  BC(01/04),ABC(11/04,5550m),C1(16/04,6500m),C2(19/04,7000m),C3(26/04,7700m),C4(29/04,8400m),xxx(19/05,8650m)

routememo:
  C2 at North Col
  C3 on North Ridge
  C4 at bottom of yellow band on North Face.

  1st attempt for top reached C4 9th May De Marchi, Spazzadeschi and Tirtha Tamang; winds forced 2 nights stay in C4 and 11th down to C2 and then ABC: "multi vento." 

  2nd bid up from ABC 16th May: De Marchi, Gianola, Beltrami, Tenzing and reached C3 17th; De Marchi, Beltrami and Tenzing reached C4 on 18th; found oxygen and 2 sleeping bags and taken from C4 (using Taiwanese tent and perhaps Simonson's Sherpas thought bags and oxygen were Taiwanese). De Marchi on 19th at 3:30 am, left from C4 together [with Hahn]; reached 2nd Step and De Marchi turned back (tired and long way to go still and getting later and had only 1 bottle oxygen while Hahn had 2) at 8650m at 1 pm and slept in C4 and 20 May to C2. During descent to C4 got frostbite taking many hours, trouble finding route, all alone, stopped too often and long. Now climb finished: this was to be last summit bid and yaks scheduled to clear gear from ABC 21 May.


expid: EVER94109
peakid: EVER
year: 1994
route1: N Face (Great Couloir)
nation: Italy
leaders: Giuseppe Vigani, Bruno Ongis
sponsor: Everest 1994
bcdate: 1994-03-30
smtdate: 1994-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 8400m due to fatal fall by leader
accidents: Curnis frostbitten fingers; leader fell and 1 cook boy died altitude sickness
agency: In Wilderness (Kunga)
campsites:
  BC(30/03,5150m),ABC(03-04/04,5650m),C1(11/04,6200m),C2(18/04,6400m),C3(24/04,7300m),C4(03/05,7700m),C5(10/05,8200m),xxx(12-13/05,8400m)

routememo:
  BC at road
  C1 on North Face
  C2 on North Face
  C3 on North Face
  C4 at bottom of Great Couloir
  C5 in Great Couloir.

  Fixing rope on rock band was this team's job, agreed with Canadians & reached 8350-8400m. Fixed a little rope & down to C4 waiting to go to top. 15th May after 5 days in C5, they decided to descend; had been waiting for winds to drop. Curnis was in lead in descent, then 4 hrs behind was G Vigani & last was Soregaroli, fixed Canadian rope to 8150m (couloir very bad very icy) but Vigani slipped at 8000m (seen by binoculars from C2). Body seen at 6400m but not reached because too dangerous where it is ("we saw lots of things [that he was carrying] & the body probably") - climb finished.

  Kitchen boy Prem Thapa died of altitude sickness; became sick at ABC & died at BC on about 6 April and cremated at Rongbuk.


expid: EVER94111
peakid: EVER
year: 1994
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Steven Matous
sponsor: American Tibet Everest Expedition
bcdate: 1994-04-03
smtdate: 1994-04-27
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to high winds, much new snow and delayed by rescue of Sherpa
campsites: BC(03/04),ABC(08/04,6500m),C1(15/04,7000m),C2(27/04,7600m),xxx(27/04,7600m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  BC at road
  C1 at North Col
  C2 at right of ridge
  High point at C2.

  C2 destroyed by wind on 6th May and never had a chance to re-establish it. Camp set up on 27th April by 3 Sherpas who slept at N Col and returned with more loads next day; on 13th May same 3 Sherpas went again to C2, slept in Italian tent and left camp next morning. All 3 in C2 night of 13th May hoping to make bid with Sherpas afer having made one more camp at 8200m and go to top on 16th.


expid: EVER94105
peakid: EVER
year: 1994
route1: E Face-S Col (Venables rte)
nation: USA
leaders: David Breashears
sponsor: Vaseline Research Everest 1994 Expedition
countries: Canada
approach: KTM->Tingri->->Karta
bcdate: 1994-03-26
smtdate: 1994-05-05
termdate: 1994-05-09
termnote: Abandoned at 7375m due to dangerous snow conditions
campsites: PreBC(26/03,3840m),BC(03/04,5425m),C1(14/04,6200m),C2(05/05,7375m),xxx(05/05,7375m)
accidents: Wind blast of avalanche knocked people & things about in BC on 25 April
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  Pre-BC at Karta - end of road
  C1 at Kangchung Glacier 1-1/2 km; from base of East Face
  C2 at same site as Venables teams
  C3 at same site as Venables teams.

  Route is very dangerous from avalanches & unstable seracs & not sensible to be on East Face anywhere. Had to move BC down to normal BC site after avalanche hit to 17,500 ft. This took a week & the several members got bronchitis so C2 no tent established till May. Swenson & others carried to C2 & he only slept the night of 5th; he came down to C1 next day. All to BC on 8th & decided to give it up. 12 April heavy snowfall put 1 meter of snow on route which was avalanching - classic slab-avalanche conditions. 

  After decision to abandon East Face, Lowe, Pittman and Swenson went to north side to ask to join Simonson's or other's teams; Swenson was accepted (had climbed K-2 without oxygen), but not Pittman and Lowe was her guide so he went only where she went.

  Had chosen East Face because magnificent face in wild lonely area, not a climb from a base camp village of many others teams. "It's the journey, not the destination." - Breashears.


expid: EVER94113
peakid: EVER
year: 1994
route1: Couloir on E side of N Ridge (to 8000m)
route2: N Col-NE Ridge (to 7800m)
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience 8000 to Everest
countries: Canada, France, Guatemala, Romania, USA
bcdate: 1994-04-11
smtdate: 1994-05-28
termdate: 1994-06-02
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to effort & strength expended, leaving no support for summit party
campsites: BC(11/04),ABC(17/04,6600m),C1(03/05,7400m),C4(24/05,7000m),C5(25/05,7800m),xxx(28/05,8300m)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at road
  ABC at East Rongbuk (normal site)
  C1  in couloir immediately on east side of North Ridge
  C4  at North Col
  C5  on North Ridge by Schmidt and Lacatusu.

  2 French were not teammates really, refused to carry even light loads. Quite technical ground to C1 subject to a little rock fall on warm days & to slab avalanche conditions if there snow & wind; very steep mixed rock & hard ice; fixed from glacier at about 6800m to C1. From C1 up couloir & very fast but steep & fixed here also to 8000m. 9th May & again 16th May reached this highest point on this route: Brice & Chuldin Sherpa 1st, Schimid & Ang Rita 2nd time (Ang Rita strong). Intended to make C2 at N Ridge at normal C6 site, but ran out of rope temporarily & there heavy snowfall with strong winds loaded couloir with small avalanching daily. 22nd May Brice at 7800m avalanche came from above & confirmed that would have trouble if continued. 

  23 May asked Swenson his agreement to change route to normal one & on 24th had people at the N Col C4 7000m & content (paid Americans fee of $1000 per person). 25th Lacatusu & Schmidt at C5 without Sherpa at 7800m on N Ridge & this the highest any members reached (but 3 Sherpas went higher, to C6 at 8300m on 26th to rescue Canadian). Found some old fixed ropes 200m above C1 which had not been placed by Schmuck's Spring 1991 member who died there. Japanese C1 debris found there & Barry Blanchard reportedly had been in this couloir then basically ended up helping rescue others. 

  If commercial expeditions went to take shortcuts; it's irresponsible because spare oxygen, etc. lacking. 5th May sent Sherpas down to help Simonson's Sherpas carry down one of there Sherpas from ABC to BC. 19 & 20 May helped N Ridge Italians get down from N Col & down to ABC. 25th May Simonson member (Paul) very sick with asthma at N Col & Brice's doctor had to help him & sending 31 Sherpas on oxygen from C4 (7000m) to C6 (8300m) in 4 hrs 20 minutes & rescued Canadians (used up all of Brice's Sherpa support and oxygen). 28th helped Simonson's Whetu get down from C5 to C4 & on down to ABC in storied rescue. 30th Whetu rode Brice yak to BC. For Brice team to continue impossible: were totally exhausted - had also spent time & effort looking after Kowalzik's members, Lacatusu went out and fixed Canadian's McIsaac when he was falling on N Ridge, plus cleaned everything off the mountain; had people in position to go for top & in condition to do so but burned out by rescues & support not available for possible summit pair (Schmidt & Lacatusu). Sherpas to 8300m were Chuldin, Karsang (Ang Rita's son) and Lobsang.

  Brice team came at right time; others there a month before them, battled wind and cold for a month. People on south summited while north side people tied down by winds; north side never successfully climbed by guided clients.


expid: EVER94103
peakid: EVER
year: 1994
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Eric Simonson
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Everest Expedition
ascent1: 194-197
countries: Australia, New Zealand
bcdate: 1994-03-16
smtdate: 1994-05-19
smttime: 1655
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
campsites:
  BC(16/03),C1(21/03,5650m),C2(24/03,6100m),C3(28/03,6500m),C4(02/04,7000m),C5(05/05,7800m),C6(18/05,8300m),Smt(19,25-26,31/05)

routememo:
  Took a month to stock a C4 in a satisfactory site in battles against winds. Swenson came from E Face 12 May asking to join this expedition; committed to not using oxygen so would not be draining oxygen supply; friend of Eric Simonson who liked him & he fitted in well.

  Whetu "amazingly strong" - was at over 28,000 ft more then 24 hrs without oxygen.

  On May 4 Ang Phinzo (Phortse) collapsed from a stroke in ABC, was carried by 3 teams to BC, driven immediately to KTM in 36 hrs from ABC (C3), given 10,000 liters of oxygen, etc. During the evacuation he suffered 7 grand mal seizures. Team was ready to go up to C6 & summit when this emergency stopped everything.

  Hahn to top alone giving gear to Italians & then went up with this attempt.

  2 members were at C6 with Edwards who almost would have gone to top if hadn't had to rescue others. Simonson could see Viesturs [who summited from Nepal] happy on summit while only 300m below Taiwanese lost & dying.

accidents:
  Ang Phinzo stroke at ABC 5th May but recovered completely; Hahn needed help in descent, so did Morgan; Rheinburger died of exhaustion after summiting


expid: EVER94106
peakid: EVER
year: 1994
route1: N Col-NE Ridge (up); Great Couloir (down)
nation: Taiwan
leaders: Chang Jui-Kong
sponsor: 1994 Taiwan Everest Expedition
ascent1: 188
bcdate: 1994-03-26
smtdate: 1994-05-08
smttime: 1718
termdate: 1994-05-15
campsites: BC(26/03),ABC(01/04,6500m),C1(08/04,7028m),C2(21/04,7790m),C3(04/05,8300m),Smt(08/05)
accidents: None except Shih's death
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  On 8th May from C3 were Shih and Hu with Ongda Chhiring and Moti Lal Gurung - walkie-talkie contact 2 pm, Hu run out of oxygen at 8450m and turned back with Moti Lal to C3. Chhiring at 8600m about 2 pm felt not well because lack of oxygen (carried but didn't use it) and suggested to Shih they turn back and try again next day, but Shih decided to continue up alone. Chhiring went back to C3. Shih at 17:18 called by walkie-talkie, said had come to top and many flags here; took pictures; was told to come down because getting late (snowfall would start that time). At 20:27 Shih radioed "I'm in danger - don't know how to go" because of snow and said he had fallen twice. At 20:46 Shih said he'd found rope and wanted to use it. Moti said no, wrong rope because it was in Great Couloir - 21:00, Shih said "I'm very tired, I must dig snowhole to have nice sleep." Moti told Shih he would bring oxygen and from tomorrow morning so stay where he was but keep moving all night not to sleep. From 22:00 every 30 minutes BC called Shih and talked to him; he responded 7:32 am 9th May when said he's okay and could see him. 9:38 am told him to go east, he could hear because he moved that way but could no longer transmit. Was seen moving very slowly until before 12:00, after 4 hrs movement, he was seen to stop and not move again. Then strong winds began. Moti did not go up but went down with Hu to C1 at noon; Hu very weak. Moti called on radio to other team's Sherpa to go up but no one can help. Shih stopped at 8700m, 100m east of Great Couloir. Ongda Chhiring and 2 other Sherpas started up from C1 to go up to bring down C2 tents. These Sherpas will never enter Tibet again: CMA knows whole story and never think about life but about recovering valuable tent. 2 members in C1 but not strong enough to go up - climb finished. Moti Lal had said no C4 necessary.

  All Koreans except BC manager went to ABC but only 9 to C1.

  Oxygen used by 4-man summit party of 8 May - used sleeping in C3 and climbing up on 8th May.


  Steve Matous, US Everest N leader - 24 May 94 (re Taiwanese Everest):

  Norman Shih ordered to summit or not come back. Taiwanese refused to help rescue Phinzo in Simonson team. 18 Sherpas carried him down ABC and this set back all teams except Taiwanese who wanted to go for summit instead.

  Moti worked very hard for Taiwanese - "murder" not justified. Taiwanese blamed Sherpas when they themselves were not competent.


  Sloezen - 9 June 94 (re Taiwanese Everest):

  Moti was completely occupied with rescuing another Taiwanese who had altitude sickness and couldn't possibly rescue Shih too.

  Taiwanese inexperienced - not up to this kind of climb.


expid: EVER94112
peakid: EVER
year: 1994
route1: N Col-N Face (Great Couloir)
nation: Germany
leaders: Peter Kowalzik
sponsor: International Mountain Climbing (IMC) Everest Expedition
countries: Austria, Canada, Denmark, UK, USA
bcdate: 1994-04-10
smtdate: 1994-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 8430m due to cold, frostbite and other illnesses
campsites: BC(10/04),ABC(14/04,6470m),C1(17/04,7070m),C2(27/04,7560m),C3(03/05,7920m),xxx(14/05,8430m)
accidents: 2 frostbite cases (will not lose toes); kitchen boy altitude sickness but returned
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at road
  C1 at glacier on east side of North Col
  C2 at North Col
  C3 on North Face
  C3 in Great Couloir.

  Up from C3 on 14 May midnight to 16:00 am NST Rockenbauer and two Rohrmosers and from C2 Kowalzik (10:00 pm NST 13 May) for summit bid. W Rohrmoser turned back at 8050m because too cold; T. Rohrmoser at 8350m 4:00 am because toes frostbitten (will go to hospital in Austria). Kowalzik at same point at 5:30 am because of stomach problems. Rockenbauer at 8430m 8:30 am because he had come to section he could not climb alone without fixed rope. All down to ABC. Climb now finished: no time left because flight have from Kathmandu fixed for 22 May.


expid: EVER93202
peakid: EVER
year: 1993
route1: N Face (Great Couloir)
nation: USA
leaders: Robert Anderson
sponsor: Everest 1993 - 40th Anniversary Ascent
countries: Canada
bcdate: 1993-07-08
smtdate: 1993-09-13
termdate: 1993-09-16
termnote: Abandoned at 8400m due to deep snow
campsites: ChineseBC(08/07),ABC(17/07,5565m),C1(29/07,6150m),C2(05/08,6520m),C3(12/09,7600m),xxx(13/09,8400m)
accidents: Hammell's eyes hit by rock
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at road head
  ABC at Tilman's meadow (below North Face west of Changtse)
  C1  just north of pt 6189 on NGS map
  C2  in basin below North Col on col's west side
  C3  at bottom of Great Couloir.

  From C2 split into parties but used some route (and did not attempt heavily snowed-up "Anderson Couloir"). Up N Face into Great Couloir (as Italians led by Forno in '91). Anderson, Teare & Bearzi left C2 17th Aug, Anderson to 7500m to see snow conditions & other 2 went on up all night & made deposit for C3 at 7600m. Easiest walking was on avalanche tracks - came down through C2, where Anderson had spent the night and all those down to ABC. Went up to C2 several times hoping that weather break had arrived; 27th Aug (Duncan & other 3 climbers) spent night there, camp hit and buried by two avalanches and back to ABC on 28th in strong storm from north. 3 Sept up again by Anderson & Bearzi, blizzard came and on 4th back to ABC. 11th Sept to C2 by 3 climbers but Anderson slept there; others down because storm clouds reappeared. 12th Sept Anderson left alone 5 am & climbed to 7600m deposit in 9 hrs; had hoped to go straight thru to summit but snow knee-deep & worse so stayed at 7600m. At 3 am 13th Sept Anderson started up again but snow in couloir deep. Got to yellow band & snow deeper. At 6:15 pm stopped ascent getting dark so down; in dark couldn't find own tracks on C3 and at 11 pm bivouacked at about 7600m near C3 in small snowhole for the night. 7 am on 14th left biv & down to C2, 15th to BC - raging blizzard on 14th.

  Anderson sees his climb a solo attempt since he was alone on his last two days push to the summit.

  Ed Viesturs - 21 Oct 93: Viesturs saw Anderson just below yellow band and believes his account of having gone across the band using rope he found there.


expid: EVER93301
peakid: EVER
year: 1993
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Amulya Sen
sponsor: Indian Everest Expedition (N Col) 1993
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 1993-08-10
smtdate: 1993-09-21
termdate: 1993-10-06
termnote: Abandoned at 8200m due to winds
accidents: Nothing serious except 2 frostbite cases (Ganguli and Dutta)
agency: None
campsites:
  BC(10/08,5100m),C1(21/08,5840m),C2.ABC(27/08,6500m),C3(14/09,7065m),C4(21,30/09,8000m),xxx(21,30/09,8200m)

routememo:
  BC at road
  C1 at North Col
  C2 at North Ridge C2.

  Too much snow and ridge very dangerous, so made no camp below below 8000m because no safe place. Took 9 hrs to climb from C3 to C4 and 4 hrs to return to C3. From 8200m would have traversed yellow band into N Face. Original plan was to climb Messner route but too much snow on face. C4 established at 8200m on 21st but did not sleep there till 30th, when 4 members went for summit push. On 30th westerly winds started and blew way one tent at 8000 but luckily no one in it; 120-140 km/hr; tent heavily laden inside - temp -35-40 degrees. Slept in C2 2 nights, then abandoned attempt on 2nd Oct because of winds. Had made a temporary camp at 7600m on 20th Sept while moving up and slept in only by Sherpas ferrying loads. On 2nd Oct 4 men down to C3 at Col and during descent 2 members got both hands and fingers frostbitten badly (not using proper gloves and not taking proper care) and left before main team's departure by few days but climbing finished. Sherpas tried to clear C4 later but couldn't reach it because of wind (now snow conditions good and weather clear) - wind blew out snow under C4 tent when it was occupied. 2 frostbitten men left BC 4th and other members 6th.


  Duration: Aug 7 to Oct 9, 1993

  Report: Bibhujit, Soumitra and Atanu established C4 at about 8200m: on Sept 21, 1992 on yellow band. Bibhujit, Soumitra, Atanu and Goutam slept from Sept to Oct 2 in an intermediate camp at 7700m. The expedition abandoned on Oct due to high wind and abnormal weather conditions. Goutam and Soumitra were frostbitten in both hands and were rescued from North Col by the other members.


expid: EVER93201
peakid: EVER
year: 1993
route1: N Col
nation: USA
leaders: James Wickwire
sponsor: Two on Everest 1993
bcdate: 1993-07-06
smtdate: 1993-09-03
termdate: 1993-09-04
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to deep snow, avalanching, there long enough
campsites: ChineseBC(06/07,5150m),ABC(17/07,6400m),C1(03/09,7000m),xxx(03/09,7000m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  We were ready to go to the summit on the 13th of Aug with the col camp stocked on the 5th. Went back up to ABC on the 13th for summit bid but didn't sleep at col till 3 Sept, the only night slept there - but snow too deep (thigh deep) & didn't get above. Slept 33 nights at ABC & only 1 night at col. Major avalanching almost wiped out other American expedition. Perfect weather in all July but weren't acclimatized then. N Col slopes "horrendous" with huge slab avalanches.


expid: EVER93304
peakid: EVER
year: 1993
route1: N Face (Great Couloir) (to 7160m)
route2: N Col-NE Ridge (to 7800m)
nation: USA
leaders: Ed Viesturs
sponsor: 1993 Everest N Face Solo
bcdate: 1993-08-24
smtdate: 1993-10-13
termdate: 1993-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to strong winds
accidents: None
agency: Nepal Himal
campsites:
  ChineseBC(24/08,5250m),ABC(28/08,5500m),C1(03/09,5850m),C2(13/09,6550m),xxx(14/09,7160m); NCol-RidgeRte-Biv(11/10,6500m),Biv(12/10,7000m),xxx(13/10,7800m)

routememo:
  BC  at road
  ABC at Shipton Meadows (nice lateral moraine)
  C1  at base of Changtse before the glacier
  Biv at North Col ABC
  Biv at North Col.

  Did carries to corner camp (C1) - whole basin of Rongbuk couloir was basin of avalanche debris so decided to acclimatize on route leading to Great Couloir - got to 23,500 ft. On 14th Sept after having gone around to other side of N Col hoping to acclimatize by going to col, but bad weather intended & on 14th again bad weather (big storm) so down to ABC on 15th. Back to C2 on 19th, another storm 20th ABC, C1 on 25th, ABC 26th with another storm. C2 on 29th & 30th to 23,000 ft on earlier but snow "slabby" & back to C2. On 2nd Oct again to 23,000 ft but snow no better & down to ABC. 5th to C2, snow fell & back to ABC. C2 on 8th, on 9th even worse than before so decided finished with N Face. 

  On 11th to N Col ABC from east side now alpine-style; N col ABC at 21,300 ft. 12th to N Col, 13th to 25,600 ft close to traditional C5 but strong wind could barely stand up so back to col; 14th at col, 15th one more push: to 25,000 ft, still very windy & down to N Col ABC & 16th to Chinese BC. Other team's camps had been shredded by winds. Viesturs last person off the mountain from north side. 

  Ms Gunn spent most of time at ABC but to C1 once; Tanding Sherpa to C2 once; rest of time Viesturs climbed alone.


expid: EVER93305
peakid: EVER
year: 1993
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Stephen Bell
sponsor: Himalayan Kingdoms Everest Expedition 1993
ascent1: 179,180
countries: Spain, USA
bcdate: 1993-08-25
smtdate: 1993-10-07
othersmts: Held permit for Lhotse to allow more members to attempt (illegally) Everest
campsites: BC(25/08,5350m),C1(31/08,6000m),C2(05/09,6450m),C3(19/09,7150m),C4(06/10,7900m),Smt(07,09/10)
accidents: 3 members slight frostbite; Warham pulmonary edema at C4 and left early; Lees 'post rinal fatigue'
agency: Amtrek
routememo:
  Did not make any serious attempt at Lhotse as a summit. Avalanche took away C2 on 20th Sept at 8 pm when no one was in camp; obliterated from C3 too and carried away from C4 loads there also. British established C3 on 29th in much same place. 1st people slept on C4 on 6th. 

  Blanco, on oxygen but it was exhausted, passed out in Hillary Step. Spanish Sherpa gave him a new cylinder and he revived after 1/2 hour and was helped down to C4 at 7 pm (in dark). Had slept on oxygen night before, but none left on night 7th. Today still very tired; had very slow descent; "it's as though he used all his energy going up and had left none for going down"; "he is very tough but Everest is such a big mountain it does test your stamina."

  Blessed got 8400m never using oxygen on 9th, now out of energy and came down to C4; had waited for day light before setting out to go up (others left at 1:30 am - he only person on 9th not to get to top).

  Sherpa summiters earlier 8000ers:

  7th Oct - Nga Temba, 35-36, Everest Spring 1993 with Indian women (S Col)
          - Dorje, 28, Everest Spring 1993 with Indian women; Everest
               Spring 1992 with Americans, etc (Burleson, S Col)
            Pasang Kami, 20, no previous 8000ers
  9th Oct - Tenzing, 29, Everest Spring 1993 with Indian women
          - Nga Temba, 42, Everest Spring 1993 with Indian women;
               Makalu 1978; Kangchenjunga 1982
          - Lhakpa Gelu, 26, no previous 8000ers
          - Ang Pasang, 46, no previous 8000ers


expid: EVER93306
peakid: EVER
year: 1993
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Alain Esteve
sponsor: Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne (GMHM)
ascent1: 177,182
bcdate: 1993-08-27
smtdate: 1993-10-06
smttime: 1430
othersmts: Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-933-01)
campsites: BC(27/08,5400m),C1(30/08,6000m),C2(05/09,6400m),C3(18/09,7150m),C4(05/10,7900m),Smt(06,09/10)
accidents: Gryzka slight frostbite; Gyalbu not hurt by slight fall
agency: Pabil Treks
routememo:
  C1 in Western Cwm
  C2 on Lhotse Face; later at 7250m (after avalanche)
  Everest C4 at South Col.

  10th Sept avalanche took away C3 and supplies for Lhotse C4, Everest C4 (3000m rope) and fixed ropes; re-established C3 100m higher than first C3 on 30th Sept with only one tent since Sherpas didn't want to sleep on face. Then fixed rope on 1 Oct 250m, above C3 from C3. 2nd Oct bad winds; 3rd Oct two teams left C3, one for S Col and other for C4 of Lhotse and slept in Lhotse C4 by 1 French and 2 Sherpas while 1 French slept in C3 to join them next day to Lhotse summit. 4th Oct Lhotse team in their C4 started at 9:00 am while man in C3 started at 4:30, on Lhotse C4 at 8:00 am and down at 9:00 am; 2 Sherpas fixed rope to bottom of couloir; Lhotse summit reached 4 pm by Vionnet-Fausset (sirdar Danu claimed he also got to top but French do not believe him and Vionnet denies this) and slept in C2 at 9:30 pm; now Lhotse climb finished. 

  Everest C4 made and occupied 5th Oct by Gramond, Cayrol, Bernard, Gyalbu & Dawa Tashi and all 5 on summit on 6th (Gramond never used oxygen) and slept in C4; On top about 2:30 pm; Gyalbu fell 15m on Hillary Step and waited for 2 French to go first. 9th next party to top; Esteve found 1 British guide and 1 Sherpa from Ball's expedition and tripod with glass altitude measuring device from Italian research program.

  Sherpas previous ascents of Everest:
    Norbu - South Col route
    Gyalbu - Hornbein route 
    Dawa Tashi - 2X South Col
    Gombu - no Everest summit before

  Everest Aut 1993, Sherpa summiters
   
  6 Oct - Gyalbu, 29, Rolwaling
            Spr 1991 Everest (N) Swedes
          Dawa Tashi 30, Rolwaling
            Spr 1993 Everest
            Aut 1992 Everest Dutch
  9 Oct - Norbu (Nuru) 25, Rolwaling   
          Gombu, 25, Rolwaling
            no previous Everest ascent

  None atop any other 8000ers before.


expid: LHOT93301
peakid: LHOT
year: 1993
route1: W Face
nation: France
leaders: Alain Esteve
sponsor: Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne (GMHM)
ascent1: 24th
bcdate: 1993-08-27
smtdate: 1993-10-04
smttime: 0800
othersmts: Climbed Everest (EVER-933-06)
campsites: BC(27/08,5400m),C1(30/08,6000m),C2(05/09,6400m),C3(18/09,7150m),C4(03/10),Smt(04/10)
accidents: Gryzka slight frostbite
achievment: 1st French Lhotse summiter
agency: Pabil Treks
primid: EVER93306
routememo:
  10th Sept avalanche took away C3 and supplies for Lhotse C4, Everest C4 (3000m rope) and fixed ropes; re-established C3 100m higher than first C3 on 30th Sept with only one tent since Sherpas didn't want to sleep on face. Then fixed rope on 1 Oct 250m above C3 from C3. 2nd Oct bad winds; 3rd Oct two teams left C3, one for S Col and other for C4 of Lhotse and slept in Lhotse C4 by 1 French and 2 Sherpas while 1 French slept in C3 to join them next day to Lhotse summit. 4th Oct Lhotse team in their C4 started at 9 am while man in C3 started at 4:30 am, on Lhotse C4 at 8:00 am and down at 9:00 am; 2 Sherpas fixed rope to bottom of couloir. Lhotse summit reached 4 pm by Vionnet-Fausset (sirdar Danu claimed he also got to top but French do not believe him and Vionnet denies this) and slept in C2 at 9:30 pm; now Lhotse climb finished.

  Everest C4 made and occupied 5 Oct by Gramond, Cayrol, Bernard, Gyalbu and Dawa Tashi and all 5 on summit on 6th (Gramond never used oxygen) and slept in C4. On top about 2:30 pm; Gyalbu fell 15m on Hillary Step and waited for 2 French to go first; 9th next party to top; Esteve found 1 British guide and 1 Sherpa from Ball's expedition and tripod with glass altitude measuring device from Italian research program.

  Sherpas previous ascents of Everest:
    Norbu - South Col route
    Gyalbu - Hornbein route 
    Dawa Tashi - 2X South Col
    Gombu - no Everest summit before

  Everest Aut 1993, Sherpa summiters
   
  6 Oct - Gyalbu, 29, Rolwaling
            Spr 1991 Everest (N) Swedes
          Dawa Tashi 30, Rolwaling
            Spr 1993 Everest
            Aut 1992 Everest Dutch
  9 Oct - Norbu (Nuru) 25, Rolwaling   
          Gombu, 25, Rolwaling
            no previous Everest ascent

  None atop any other 8000ers before.


expid: EVER94107
peakid: EVER
year: 1994
route1: S Pillar-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Mitsuyoshi Hongo
sponsor: Aichi-Gakuin University Mt. Everest Expedition 1994
ascent1: 187,191
bcdate: 1994-03-28
smtdate: 1994-05-08
smttime: 1020
termdate: 1994-05-17
campsites: BC(28/03,5200m),C1(02/04,6100m),C2(09/04,6700m),C3(18/04,7500m),C4(23/04,8100m),Smt(08,13/05)
accidents: None
achievment: 2nd oldest Everest summiter
agency: Himalayan Journeys
routememo:
  C2 at West Cwm
  C3 at South Pillar
  C4 at South Pillar.

  Most difficult section: 6850m to C3 which all blue ice and fixed rope from 6850m to 5 pitches above C4 - little snow on mountain. 10 ice axes broken in climbing overhanging and ice and no place to rest.

  Use of oxygen: 
    members (but not Sherpas) sleeping in C3;
    members and Sherpas sleeping in C4, climbing from C4 to summit to C4 and 
      again sleeping in C4.

  This expedition sent the first people to the summit on 13th May, according to Peter Athans of Burleson expedition on 26th May. Japanese were on top by 10:00-10:30 am.

  Sherpa summiters (according to Lhakpa Tenzing - 30 May 94):

  1) Nima Dorje (not Mingma Dorje), 38, Rolwaling - this his 4th Everest ascent
  2) Dawa Tshering, 23, Beding, summited Cho Oyu last Oct; this was his first
     Everest ascent.
  3) Lhakpa Nuru, Kharikhola, this his 5th Everest ascent
  4) Nima Temba, Lukla, this his 1st Everest ascent but his 4th 8000er
  5) Dawa Tashi, Beding, this his 4th Everest ascent
  6) Pasang Tshering, Beding, scaled Everest Cho Oyu before
  7) Na Temba (Lhakpa Tenzing doesn't know which Nga/Na Tenzing this is) [Nga Temba 
     went to Everest in summer 1994 & told leader he summited only twice before]


expid: EVER94108
peakid: EVER
year: 1994
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Steven Goryl
sponsor: Sagarmatha Enviromantal Expedition 1994
ascent1: 189,193
bcdate: 1994-03-29
smtdate: 1994-05-09
smttime: 0910
termdate: 1994-05-15
campsites: BC(29/03,5350m),C1(03/04,6000m),C2(15/04,6650m),C3(22/04,7200m),C4(08/05,7900m),Smt(09,13/05)
accidents: None
agency: Himalayan Treks (Him Treks)
routememo:
  BC as same as all others
  C2 high in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Left C4 at 12:45 am of 9th all 5 together: 1st 3 to summit used no oxygen at all; Bishop from C3 up and down to C4 and to top and back to C4 and sleeping in C4 again. Lobsang made trail and others followed close behind.

  9th May Goryl arrived at C4, stayed till 13th because of winds; left 3 am, on top 12:40, last that day to summit (used oxygen from C3 to C4, was on oxygen at 2 liter/min all day and all night, scavanging old bottles and use 30-40 bottles from previous expeditions at C4 and used to summit. 

  Clean-up efforts: bounty a trash (Rs 100-150/10 kg) brought from BC area - paid Rs 300 per oxygen bottle C4->C2 and 100-150 C2->BC. Got 5000 pounds trash off mountain and away from BC. Spent $2000+ Got 250 bottles off mountain by Sherpas descending after carrying loads. Gave Sherpas income without making go up just for trash. Hope to continue this program next up and thus get Sherpas to demand such bounty in future. Still couple thousand at col now after this team paid for 260 from col (60 only to C2) - exceeding total rubbish removal goal of 2000 lbs by 3000 lbs.

  Lobsang Jangbu told team that he used oxygen in spring 1993 (with Indian women's expedition) while sleeping in C4.

achievment:
  3rd son of an Everest summiter to summit; first American father/son combination to summit (separately).


expid: EVER94102
peakid: EVER
year: 1994
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Todd Burleson
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Everest Expedition 1994
ascent1: 192
countries: Canada, Poland, S Africa, UK
bcdate: 1994-03-15
smtdate: 1994-05-13
smttime: 1100
campsites: BC(15/03,5300m),C1(12/04,6100m),C2(14/04,6500m),C3(22/04,7300m),C4(09/05,7900m),Smt(13/05)
accidents: Whitley intestinal obstruction; Todd & Morrow frostbite (will heal)
agency: Main Excursions
routememo:
  C4 at South Col.

  7th May one of Hall team's Sherpas went up early on Lhotse Face, came back after dropping load and prepared tents collapsed and not possible to sleep in them. Members tured around after only an hour's trek out of C2 (at bottom of W Face) and thus put back program by a day. Burleson Sherpas not turned around and found tents actually entirely usable. So summit party reached C3 on 8th and C4 on 9th; on 9th winds became very strong in mid-afternoon. 10th in this party: Burleson, Athans, Pawlowski, Todd, Cedergreen, Morrow, Kerr, Fischbeck, Lakes and Sherpas Lhakpa Rita, Chuwang Nima, Kami Rita, Dorje and "Gopal" Man Bdr Tamang. Had to stay in C4 4 nights before able to go for top because of winds (may be 50-60 mph - could walk around col but could not have gotton clients to top) and would never have gotten clients back up to C4 if had gone down. 12th May afternoon winds died and all 15 climbers set out for summit at midnight. Todd frostbite and turned back at 8150m; Lakes suddenly took off oxygen, fell hours behind (had been helping Todd) but cannot account for reason he turned back 100m below South Summit. Fischbeck ran out of oxygen below South Summit and turned back, so his pal Kerr (who had summited before) also turned back. Fischbeck moving fairly slowly and would have difficult to get him to summit. All slept at C4 again and on 14th to C2.

  Whitby evacuated by helicopter from BC 25th April because of intestinal obstruction and went to Singapore for treatment and is recovering.

  Oxygen: 
    C2-C3 - Burnett
    C3-C4 - all clients, some guides, no Sherpas
    At C4 - all climbers all the times they were there whenever they wanted it
    C4 to top - all who went up from Col 
       Lhakpa Rita no oxygen above 8400m
       Lakes stopped and used at 8600m
    C4 in descent used by Morrow, Cedergreen and Fischbeck to about 6600m 
       (base of fixed ropes)

  Sherpa Summiters:

  1) Lhakpa Rita Sherpa, Thami, this is 3rd summit ascent, no other 8000ers
  2) Chuwang Nima Sherpa, Thami, this his first 8000m summit
  3) Kami Rita Sherpa, Thami, Lhakpa Rita's younger brother, this his 1st 80004er
  4) Dorje Sherpa, Thami, this his 4th Everest ascent
  5) "Gopal" Man Bahadur Tamang, lives in Kathmandu, this his 2nd Everest ascent

  Summiters times on summit:
  11:00 am - 5 Nepalese together
  12:00 pm - Pawlowski and Cedergreen
  12:30 pm - Morrow and Athans
   1:15 pm - Burleson


expid: EVER94104
peakid: EVER
year: 1994
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Rob Hall
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Sagarmatha Cleanup Expedition 1994
ascent1: 190
countries: Germany, Norway, USA
bcdate: 1994-03-16
smtdate: 1994-05-09
smttime: 1030
othersmts: Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-941-01)
campsites: BC(16/03,5350m),C1(12/04,6100m),C2(14/04,6500m),C3(22/04,7300m),C4(08/05,7900m),Smt(09/05)
accidents: Keaton mildly frostbitten toes
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  C2 at West Cwm 
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Advance team with Sherpas arrived BC 16th March but only Arnold and Viesturs only members there till early April. Compressed climbing climbing time into shorter than normal and no plans had to be altered because of bad weather.

  Expedition had eight climbing members (one more than limit) because was old application submitted before new rules announced; actually had permission for 12 members [Tourism Ministry official said 13 May that limit on member didn't apply since this was a cleanup expedition and there is no fixed limit on these]. Cleanup efforts concentrated on removing oxygen bottles from S Col to C2 (@ Rs. 150-300/bottle) to Sherpa returning from Col) in cooperation with Goryl's US team. 200 bottles brought to C2 by 3 expeditions & 40-50 of these are still in C2.

  Kagge claims to be first person to go to N Pole, S Pole and "Third Pole" from their bases. Korean Heo Young-Ho (N Pole 1990, S Pole Jan 1993) started his ski trip at 80 degrees, 3 weeks closer to S Pole than coast, where Kagge began.

  Oxygen: Members (possibly not Viesturs) sleeping in C3 enroute to summit. Sherpas not (they didn't sleep in C3, went directly from C2 to C4). All members climbing from C3 to C4. All members except Viesturs and Sherpas sleeping in C4 night of 8th May. All members and Sherpas climbing from C4 to summit to C4 and sleeping in C4. 3 other Sherpas stayed at C4 to cook and be in support of needed on 8th and 9th; they also used oxygen.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Dorje, Pangboche  - also known at Chuldin Dorje scaled Everest 
                            on Hall expeditions 12/5/92 & 10/5/93
    Nima Gombu, Rolwaling - scaled Everest with French 9/10/93 (as Gombu)
    Norbu/Nuru, Rolwaling - scaled Everest and Lhotse with French in Oct 1993


expid: EVER93108
peakid: EVER
year: 1993
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Ji Hyun-Ok
sponsor: 1993 Korean Woman Everest Expedition
ascent1: 156
bcdate: 1993-03-27
smtdate: 1993-05-10
smttime: 1045
campsites: BC(27/03,5350m),C1(02/04,6050m),C2(08/04,6400m),C3(14/04,7200m),C4(23/04,7900m),Smt(10/05)
accidents: 2 Sherpas snowblinded; also 2 [members] had snowblindness & leader little snowblind
achievment: 1st Korean women to summit
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at Col at 3:00 pm.

  24th April was planned for 1st summit attempt but Tourism Ministry said team's Sherpas must search for Mrs Pasang Lhamu, Nepali team leader and 2 went up to about 8400m but no higher because wind (1 Sherpa from SW team and 1 from Pasang Lhamu team also went to search). Ministry said if not searching, permit cancelled. 24th stayed at Col while 2 Sherpas to C2; 25th others down. 

  2nd summit bid from Col on 5th May planned but only to col on 4th May and down same day. 

  3rd summit bid on 10 May by 3 members and 4 Sherpas and all to top; left C4 2:00 am, reached top 10:45 am and return C4 3:15 pm and members slept there while 4 Sherpas to C2, leaving only members in C4 (2 Sherpas snowblind and other 2 helping). 

  No more summit bids because think dangerous from weather; also had been climbing long time and very tired; Col tents all broken by very strong wind. Decided 12 May no more summit attempts.


expid: EVER93106
peakid: EVER
year: 1993
route1: S Pillar-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Jeon Byoung-Man
sponsor: 1993 Chonbuk Everest Expedition, Korea
bcdate: 1993-03-23
smtdate: 1993-05-08
termdate: 1993-05-11
termnote: Abandoned at 8600m due to deep snow & members tired
campsites: BC(23/03),C1(30/03,6100m),C2(31/03,6400m),C3(15/04,7150m),C4(17/04,7800m),xxx(08/05,8600m)
agency: Universal Trekking Network
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 at left side of pillar
  C4 at left side of pillar
  High point at SE Ridge.

  Lee in Aut 1980 was in pillar and this time more difficult because of blue ice; also problem in of big snow bridge now "all broken." 25th April 1st summit bid from C4 and reached 8400m where deep snow: at 8100m left the pillar and crossed to normal route 25th down to C4 stay there and 1 member to C2. 

  Next summit bid 7th May from C4 by 1 member and 1 Sherpa and they reached 8300m, deep snow and 2 men not strong enough to continue and down to C4. 

  Another bid on 8 May and got to 8600m and again to chest-deep snow and strong wind and 2 to C4 and 1 member to C2. Now weather not so good; on 10th eight teams together could force route through deep snow. 

  All members this team very tired after long period on mountain and Sherpas not so strong.

accidents:
  Ang Kami hurt his back while pulling out frozen rope; Jin & Yu Han both have frostbitten toes but not serious, will not lose any parts of their toes


expid: EVER93119
peakid: EVER
year: 1993
route1: N Col-NE Ridge (up); SE Ridge-S Col (down)
nation: S Korea
leaders: Oh In-Hwan
sponsor: S Korean Everest Expedition (N Side)
ascent1: 152
bcdate: 1993-03-29
smtdate: 1993-04-13
smttime: 1330
termdate: 1993-04-19
achievment: 1st unsupported N-S traverse
agency: None
campsites:
  BC(29/03),C2.ABC(03/04,6500m),C3(10/04,7000m),C4(11/04,7700m),Biv1(12/04,8300m),Smt(13/04),Biv2(13/04,8500m),C5(14/04,6500m),C6(15/04,5300m)

routememo:
  BC at Rongbuk
  C3 at North Col
  C4 on North Face
  1st biv C5 at slightly below North Ridge (snowhole)
  2nd biv at SE Ridge
  C5 in Western Cwm (Changbuk Korean expedition's tent)
  C6 at south side BC.

  4 climbing members and only 1 climbing Sherpa, Ngati. C4 and biv made by Heo & Ngati alone. 13th April both to summit at 1:20 pm Tibet time after having left biv at 4 am in good weather but 6 am snow fall started strongly with wind - very difficulty very long way: rock, snow, rock, snow along with N Ridge up 1st and 2nd steps all the way to summit. 1st Step didn't recognize but 2nd Step very steep; earlier season's team had left ladder at 2nd Step, but it moved when weight put on it and "not safely" but stayed in place (at 2nd Step maybe 10:00 am). At summit found broken tripod on summit; little snow on N Face; stayed 40 min on top; could not talk to Oh in BC and C3 on summit snowing at this time and visibility not good, could not see Lhotse; took video films of each other and broken tripod from 1992. Descended to 8500m at about 8 pm Chinese time and slept in biv here. 14th April down to col (no one had reached there yet), on to C3 (Korean women) and to C2 to sleep in Changbuk Korean Everest Expedition camp (Korean team did not know Heo would to descend Nepalese side and Heo himself did not plan it). 

  Why Heo did this climb? "I like the mountains." Came down Nepalese side because knew route easier than N Route; now in bad weather (snow and wind) easier to descend Nepalese side and thought some people would be camped at S Col (none of Heo's members were in their C4 or higher; C4 tent broken on 12 April). 13th and 14th Heo's teammate thought he was dead; when he arrived south side BC he talked by other Korean's walkie-talkie that he was OK. Today they leave BC for Lhasa and 1 Sherpa cook may bring his passport. Heo and an LO from S Side expedition came to Kathmandu 19 April and went to Tourism Ministry who said no problem. Today with embassy letter went to ministry & they also raised no problem.

  C4 tent "broken" so took no tent above C4 and had no biv bag but did have 2 sleeping bags.


  Lusang Dawa, TMA official - 13 June 93

  His descent on southern side caused no problem.

  Lusang Dawa agrees that last year TMA and NMA officials agreed about climbers border traverse when necessary because of bad weather. "We must think about members safety."


  G. Bass, Swiss Everest (north) - 6 May 93

  Korean Everest (north side)

  Chinese-Taiwanese expedition were very angry at Koreans because Koreans went up on ropes Chinese had just fixed for themselves.

  Remaining Koreans left BC 20 or 21 April, just as Swiss were arriving. They met each other below BC. Chinese interpreter with Koreans smiled broadly over Heo's having gone down onto Nepalese side of mountain.


  Lee and Jeon, Korean Everest South Pillar expedition - 17 May 93

  Lee, Heo's friend, knew Heo would be on north side of Everest when he himself would be on south, but he knew of no plan by Heo to descend South Col route. Before coming to Everest, Heo was in New Zealand and they did not talk to each other for quite a while before Everest.

  Lee heard on his walkie-talkie in C2 Heo saying to his BC "this is summit, this is summit - I am very tired" but heard no response and he thinks Heo's walkie-talkie soon died.

  Next day when he saw two people descending Lhotse Face to C3 there, Lee thought they were Heo and his Sherpa because no teams were yet at Col. Lee was making route to his C3 on Pillar that day, descended to C2 to sleep and met Heo at C2.


  Jean and Lee Eui-Jae, Korean South Pillar Everest Expedition - 15 May 93

  Heo: I almost died he said to Lee at C2 14 Apr. He was extremely tired, coughing a lot, very thin (Lee has known him well, he stayed night of 14 Apr in Lee's tent); too tired to be happy; only thought was that he was now safe.

  Ngati slept in Korean SW Face tent; his fingers blistered from frostbite but not extremely serious. No doubt he came from summit. In his ascent, hadn't fixed rope; now no oxygen.

  Heo slept in Jeo's tent at BC.


  Heo and Ngati - 24 Apr 93

  C4 tent 1st broken by wind and wreck still used for shelter but Ngati's cooking caught tent on fire and still could use remnants for cover 8300m used earlier season teams snowhole for 1st biv.

  13 Apr summit and bad weather drove down South Side where route easier and expected camp at Col. At 8500m Ngati made snowhole very narrow (slept on their sides). Ngati forgot to put sleeping bag over his head and left hand outside was covered by snow: now 5 fingers frostbitten, almost died, not talking till Heo covered him with sleeping bags and gave extra gloves.

  No cooking, no waters no eating except snow from C4 North side till reached Korean woman C3 on south side (from 2:00 am 13 Apr to 3:00 pm 14 Apr).


  To HMG - 16 April 93

  "I climbing leader of the Himalaya expedition climbed the to of Mountain Everest from Tibet on the 13th of April at 14:20 (China Time). When I stopped the top of Mount Everest, there was a very strong wind with snow, I cannot afford to descend to the North Col at that time, I have to escape from the hard time. So I bivouaced a night just below the South Peak. The next day, 14th of April, I descended to South Col and C2 at the Khumbu Himalaya. On the 15th of April, I arrived at the base camp. I'd like to go back to Tibet as soon as possible."

accidents:
  Ngati frostbite 6 fingers but will be OK; Heo altitude cough to day; cook Pasang altitude sickness & given oxygen


expid: EVER93109
peakid: EVER
year: 1993
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Bachendri Pal
sponsor: First Indo-Nepalese Women's Everest Expedition 1993
ascent1: 159,169
countries: Nepal
bcdate: 1993-03-27
smtdate: 1993-05-10
smttime: 1200
termdate: 1993-05-22
accidents: Yadav slight frostbite; Sarla eye hemorrhage; U Malla blood pressure
agency: Amtrek
campsites:
  BC(27/03,5300m),C1(06/04,6100m),C2(10/04,6500m),C3(12/04,7400m),C4(04/05,7900m),C5(10/05,8400m),Smt(10,16/05)

routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col
  C5 but not occupied.

  1st summit party occupied C4 and opened route and fixed ropes to S Summit on 5th May; Nimi and her husband in this group; down on 6th May because of deep snow. 

  2nd summit party of 10 reached S Col and on 10th 8 to summit while 2 others put emergency camp at 8400m and returned to col in support. 

  3rd support-3rd summit team to col on 15th and to top on 16th.

  On summit on 16th May (total 10 - 4 Indian women, 2 Indian men and 4 Nepali 
     Sherpas):
  10:45 - Radha Devi Thakur 
          Rajiv Sharma
  11:00 - Lobsang Jangbu Sherpa (no oxygen), 22, Beding (his 1st 8000er)
  12:00 - Deepu Sharma 
          Savita Martolia
          Nima Dorje Sherpa, 37, Beding
          Tenzing Sherpa, 25, Thami (his 1st 8000er)
          Nima Norbu Dolma
  01:00 - Suman Kutiyal
          Sirdar Nga Temba Sherpa, 38, Kharikhola

  Rajiv Sharma: technical advisor were guiding some members.

  Sherpas on Summit 10th May: 
    Dorje Sherpa, 28, Thamo (Everest once before)
    Ongda Chhiring, 24, Dinching (near Sedua), Makalu (1st 8000er)
    Kusang Dorje Sherpa, 34, Walung, Makalu (1st 8000er)
    Na Temba Sherpa, 36, Kharikhola (1st 8000er) - not same as Nga Temba on 16 May.


  Re Lobsang Jangbu - 21 May 1994 

  US Everest expedition led by Goryl reported Lobsang Jangbu, who summited with them, told them he had used oxygen sleeping in C4 in May 1993 (did not do so in May 1994). 


  Guy Cotter of New Zealand-US site - 14 May 1995 

  Everest expedition said Lobsang Jangbu, this expedition's only summiter, told them he did not use oxygen on either of his previous Everest ascent.


  Todd Burleson - 22 May 1993

  Burleson saw "technical advisor" clipping and unclipping teenagers. Most of these women would not have reached summit without those male advisors who told Burleson they were doing "typical guiding" on this climb.


  Banskota - 7 May 1993

  5 May summit party left South Col at 2:00 am, reached South Summit 3:45 pm in waist deep snow; left South Summit at 5:00 pm and arrived back at South Col 10:00 pm. 6 May summit party descended to C2. 

  In party were Anita Gurumayum, Deepu Sharma and Nimi Sherpa. "Supported" by Rajiv Sharma, Nima Norbu, Lhakpa Sherpa, Nima Rita Sherpa and Nga Temba Sherpa.

  2nd summit attack is planned.


expid: EVER93102
peakid: EVER
year: 1993
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Zeng Shu-Sheng, Lee Cheng-Yen
ascent1: 154
countries: Taiwan
bcdate: 1993-03-08
smtdate: 1993-05-05
accidents: Frostbite to all six summiters
campsites:
  BC(08/03,5100m),ABC(25/03,6500m),C1(01/04,7050m),C2(08/04,7790m),C3(03/05,8300m),C4(04/05,8680m),Smt(05/05)

routememo:
  Team of 8 Chinese and 8 Taiwanese, pluse Tibetan assistants.

  Tibetans were the expedition's Sherpas. Ropes fixed from the bottom of North Col (6650m) to top (7050m) and from North Col to C2 (7800m). Above, occasional ropes fixed to C3 (8300m) and new ropes placed on the second step (approximately 8700m).

  Leaders: Zeng Shu-Sheng - Standing vice president, C.M.A.
  Climbing leaders:  
    Hwang De-Hsiung - (Taiwanese party)
    Ji Jun-Xi - (Chinese party)

  Tibetan Summiters (Previous 8000ers according to Sandrup of Ama Dablam Expedition)

  1) Jimi = Chhimi (called Chhimi Chhungwa or small Chhimi in Tibetan) 
            scaled Xixabangma in Spring 1990 & Spring 1991
  2) Kai Zhong = Gyatso
  3) Pu Bu = Phurbu - scaled Xixa in Spring 1990
     

  Taiwanese Leader (from visiting card)
  Mrs. Cheng-Yen Lee
  Chief Executive
  I-Lun Productions Ltd
  No.11-1F, Lane 97
  Yenchi Street
  Taipei, Taiwan
  Fax (886) 2777-5988


expid: EVER93104
peakid: EVER
year: 1993
route1: SW Face (to 8450m)
route2: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Jong-Ryang
sponsor: 4326 (Korean year) Sagarmatha SW Face Expedition
ascent2: 171
bcdate: 1993-03-20
smtdate: 1993-05-16
smttime: 1340
accidents: Kim Tae-Kon slight frostbite
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
campsites:
  BC(20/03,5300m),C1(29/03,6100m),C2(03/04,6500m),C3(10/04,6950m),C4(15/04,7650m),C5(19/04,8300m),xxx(19/04,8450m); C3(14/05),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(16/05)

routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm 
  C3 on SW Face
  C4 on SW Face (Bonington route)
  C5 on SW Face.

  19th April made route to C5 site, fixed rope to 8300m site and 100m higher, but weather no good (wind, snow), so down to C4 at 8 pm. Again on 20th to C2. Next 10-15 days snow falling and stayed in BC waiting for good weather but after so many days made one more try on face. 30 April 2 men went up face to check conditions on route and 4th May C4 reoccupied; 5th May to C5 and pitched tent but rope under ice and snow and in same places broken when pulled out; reached C5 late afternoon 7 pm and decided route not possible because of bad snow conditions on rock band; 6 May down to C2.

  Asked for permit to change to S Col route and all down to BC. Then helped bring down Pasang Lhamu's body. For S Col climb from BC to C2 13th May, 14th May 2 to C3; 15th May An and Park C2 to C4 with Pasang Kazi, 2 Kims and C2 cook, Ang Kami to C4 16th May. Cook stayed C4 while 3 members and Pasang Kazi in 1:20 am left C4 (Park no oxygen, others used oxygen) and reached summit 1:40 pm, last party to reach top; down to C4, An and Kim Tae-Kon oxygen finished and both in very bad condition - very cloudy. Park at C4 7 pm; An next behind him. An turned right and went to S Pillar route C4 by mistake (S Pillar team had already left mountain). 17th May An came on walkie-talkie at 1 to 9 am but not 10:00 am. Think he fell on very steep blue ice below C4 in Pillar and rope was under ice; Nawang Norbu saw his body at 6450m, just above Pillar C2. 3 Sherpas went up and brought body down.

  Nam went up face to get his camera at C4 on face. He went alone up face on 16 May from C2. He went on above C4 and reached 7800m and then fell (seen falling by Tashi Tenzing); blood trail to very deep crevasse just above C2 into which body fell. Think he wanted to take pictures. He was not good technical climber he should not have gone on face and was told by Park not to. 


  Park Young-Seok - 23 Aug 97

  Park and Pasang Kazi used oxygen in face attempt; sleeping in C4 night of 3 May, climbing to C5 and sleeping there 4 May, climbing to high point 8450m and sleeping in C5 again on 5 May. Then abandoned face route. 6 May without oxygen down to C2 and to BC on 7 May and stayed in BC to 13 May.

  Park next went for summit via S Col. Used no oxygen 13 May in ascent to C2, 15 May to C4, 16 May to summit and returned to C4; but Park couldn't get up in morning of 17 May. Was very tired, very weak from having summited on 16th and then having worked hard to get teammate An down Hillary Step. So in this emergency on 17th May, teammates searched S Col for oxygen since their expedition had none left. Found small amounts of oxygen in a couple of bottles descended by others and gave him oxygen from these bottles for total 5-10 minutes. This enabled him to get up and with help from Kazi to descend to C2 on 17th. Reached BC 18th having used no oxygen again.


expid: EVER93107
peakid: EVER
year: 1993
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Paul Pfau, Michael Sinclair
sponsor: 1993 American Sagarmatha Expedition
ascent1: 160,170
bcdate: 1993-03-24
smtdate: 1993-05-10
termdate: 1993-05-18
campsites: BC(24/03,5350m),C1(06/04,6050m),C2(08/04,6400m),C3(17/04,7300m),C4(09/05,7900m),Smt(10,16/05)
accidents: Many members had stomach trouble (sirdar Wangchu also)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 next to Korean woman
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  1st summit team of 6 left col at 2 am and Moti at 3:00, Wangchu 4:00 and Pemba Temba at 5:00 am. Wangchu turned back above Hillary Step because of abdominal pain and diarrhea; other 5 to top. Pemba Temba descended to C2, others slept at C4 (including Wangchu). 

  Next summit bid: Sinclair, Rabold and 3 Sherpas to col on 15th; left col at 1:00 am on 16th together and all got to top before Koreans; all slept at C4. 

  No more attempts: only 1 more climbing member, who helped bring down body of Lobsang and had personal reasons not to try.


expid: EVER93110
peakid: EVER
year: 1993
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Tashi Tenzing
sponsor: Australian Macedonian Everest Exped 1993
ascent1: 157
countries: India, Macedonia
bcdate: 1993-03-27
smtdate: 1993-05-10
smttime: 1030
termdate: 1993-05-17
campsites: BC(27/03,5350m),C1(09/04,6150m),C2(16/04,6450m),C3(19/04,7200m),C4(09/05,7900m),Smt(10/05)
accidents: Zangbu back problem of unknown cause & left early
agency: Sherpa Trekking Service (STS)
routememo:
  C1 a little higher then normal because Icefall breaking up
  C2 in Western Cwm 
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  1st summit bid made on 10th May: Tashi, Groom and Lobsang occupied C4 on 9th with Hume and Aleksov and Lock occupying C3 same evening. Groom left C4 at 11 pm on 9th with Harry Taylor of British team; Tashi and Lobsang left camp at about 1 am on 10th using oxygen. When Groom and Taylor reached 8650m, other teams Sherpas on oxygen passed them. Groom to summit at 10:30 am. Tashi abandoned attempt at 8400m with vision problem (probably retinal - couldn't have been snowblindness  because no pain and only 1-1/2 hours of day light for him) and down to C2. Lobsang to top with Indians. Ball saw him just below S Summit and OK in descent, not seen alive again; found at 8200m without any of his oxygen supply on slope leading to col; apparently he became confused when oxygen supply ended and wondered on to same very steep ground and fell and died of fractured skull; found on 12th (search on 11th impossible because of winds); body taken down over a week and cremated at Pangoche on 20th. Hume and Aleksov and Lock to C4 on 10th but unable to go go top on 11th because of wind; 12th Lock and Aleksov found body. Hume wanted to go up to top but Tashi decided expedition over and all Sherpa effort from other teams to bring down body.

  (Tashi helped by American's Sirdar and Rabold descended by talking them down over walkie-talkie, said Keith Brown).


expid: EVER93112
peakid: EVER
year: 1993
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Rob Hall, Gary Ball
sponsor: Hall & Ball Everest Expedition 1993
ascent1: 161
countries: Finland, France, UK, USA
bcdate: 1993-04-01
smtdate: 1993-05-10
termdate: 1993-05-16
campsites: BC(01/04,5350m),C1(07/04,6100m),C2(10/04,6500m),C3(21/04,7350m),C4(09/05,7900m),Smt(10/05)
accidents: Chirstine Allen exhaustion; Ball bleeding sinuses
achievment: 1st Finn to summit
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  C2 in Wesetern Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Only one summit bid, which was original plan (safer to have larger group together). 10 people left C4 on 10th at 0:20 hrs to go to top. Mauduit got cold at 8200m and Cotter turned back with her to guide her down safely. Ball at 8100m quite ill from hemorrhaging sinuses and bleeding into mask so couldn't see. 

  Mauduit tried on 17th to go to top with Catalans and turned back, again too cold, below S Summit (reason cold probably not moving fast enough).

  Oxygen: Chantal Maudit not all; most others who slept in C3, climbed from C3 upwards; all others at and above C4.

  Sherpas summiters: (Everest is 1st 8000m summit for all 3)
    Ang Chumbi, 42, Khumjung
    Ang Dorje, 22, Pangboche (Citizenship papers give his name as Chuldin
      - family named him Chuldin Dorje)
    Nuru Sherpa, Beding


expid: EVER93101
peakid: EVER
year: 1993
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Keith Brown
sponsor: Self-contained group on Todd Burleson permit
ascent1: 168
countries: Australia
bcdate: 1993-03-05
smtdate: 1993-05-16
smttime: 1045
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East
campsites: BC(05/03,5350m),C1(26/03,6100m),C2(10/04,6500m),C3(17/04,7200m),C4(10/05,7900m),Smt(16/05)
accidents: None
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Cwm (next to Korean leader)
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Went 1st to BC, then 3 members to Lobuche East to acclimatize and then to Namche to rest; then back to BC 23 March, when 4th member, Rheinberger on 10th May to col and slept there that night and down next day with Brown and Harris because of high winds. Intended summit bid for 11th and on 11th down to C2. 14th Brown and Harris to C3, C4 15th and to summit on 16th. Left C4 at 1:30 am together and arrived at top within 15 minutes of each other, having joined SE Ridge at 8500m, where ridge had become flat, had kept to left of SE Ridge below 8500m.

  4th member Bach, never climbed on Everest after Lobuche; it was decided he did not have the skills or the ability to work with a small, Sherpa-less team.

  Rheinberger was slow and not strong enough.


expid: EVER93105
peakid: EVER
year: 1993
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Todd Burleson
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Everest Expedition 1993
ascent1: 155
countries: Canada, S Africa
bcdate: 1993-03-27
smtdate: 1993-05-10
smttime: 1115
termdate: 1993-05-20
campsites: BC(22/03,5350m),C1(03/04,6100m),C2(06/04,6400m0,C3(23/04,7300m),C4(09/05,7900m),Smt(10/05)
accidents: Solmonson got slight case pulmonary edema; Tamang cookboy sick at BC
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  On 10th May ten set out for summit, but Gordon and Gopal Tamang turned back at 27,500 ft. Set out at midnight and got to top from 11:15 onwards. Lowe planned the way, weather getting bad at 3:30 and descended 100 yds, then turned around again and continued up; returned to C4 by 5:30 pm. This the only summit bid.

  Burleson and Athans led a 2nd summit party which got no higher than C3 for night of 12th; stormy, windy on 13th and clients wanted to go down and down they went.

  Oxygen: Sutton, Dufficy, Gordon and Helenek above C3 to top; on summit day, Lowe and Berg at and above C4; 3 summit Sherpas at and above C4; Gopal Tamang at and above C4 and Ang Pasang, C4 cook, at C4; Tamang cook boy sick at BC, used at BC.

  Sherpas:
    Chuldin Temba, 29, Namche (Zarok, Solu said Tourism Ministry)
    Apa, 32, Thami
    Dawa Nuru (Danuru said Ministry), 33


expid: MANA83303
peakid: MANA
year: 1983
route1: S Ridge (to 7500m)
route2: S Face
nation: W Germany
leaders: Guenther Haerter
sponsor: German Manaslu Expedition
ascent2: 18th
countries: Italy
bcdate: 1983-09-22
smtdate: 1983-10-22
smttime: 1530
campsites: BC(22/09,4300m),C1(29/09,5200m),C2(01/10,5800m),C3(07/10,6600m),C4(17/10,7400m),Smt(22/10)
accidents: None
routememo:
  BC at Thulnagi Glacier.

  Arrived top 15:00 to 15:30 hrs in strong wind (problem to stand up). Met Heo who was first on top and followed immediately by 2 Sherpas, then Haerter, then Wehrs, then Streibel and Tauber last. Heo "was in real good condition." Were surprised to see him. Sherpas said there is someone 500m up there in the rocks and Geyer didn't believe them, thought altitude affected him; thought he would be on top earlier. Route on ridge was same Yugoslavian spring 1983 as far as Yugoslavian's high point of 7100m, then same route on face as Austrian 1972 spring.

  Reached highest point on ridge of 7500m on 18th Oct, then very stormy and lost everything at C3 under snow so no longer possible to continue on ridge and also too windy for ridge. So back to C2, made new C3 on face. On 20th Oct moved camp up on ice wall to plateau at 7400m; on plateau on 22nd to top.


expid: EVER83301
peakid: EVER
year: 1983
route1: N Face (Great Couloir)
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Romolo Nottaris
countries: Italy
bcdate: 1983-08-12
smtdate: 1983-09-16
termdate: 1983-10-12
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to deep snow, very strong climbers left expedition, Nottaris' broken foot
campsites: BC(12/08,5100m),C1(19/08,5500m),C2(25/08,6000m),C3(03/09,6500m),C4(16/09,7400m),xxx(16/09,7400m)
accidents: Nottaris broke foot Sep 16 night at C2 and could climb no more on this expedition
routememo:
  BC at usual site at end of road, 10-12 km beyond Rongbuk monastery on Dzakar Chu (Schneider map).

  Very, very much snow; very strong climber Tiziano Zuend left expedition; Nottaris broke foot so two of best cllimbers out of action.

  Originally planned Japanese 1980 direct to Hornbein Couloir, "very nice" direct route, but too much avalanching in Hornbein so went left towards Great (Norton) Couloir. Both routes easy technically on gentle slopes. In Oct wanted to join French on W Ridge but still too much snow.


  Nottaris - 22 Aug 1982

  Original plan: Japanese 1980 route direct to Hornbein, very nice, direct route, but too much avalanche in Hornbein, so went to left towards Great (Norton) couloir; same route as US 1982.

  16 Sept Nottaris C3 to C4 and broke foot after descent to C2 (that night twisted ankle breaking foot bones).

  17 Sept Nottaris on hands and knees down to C1 and by yak to BC.

  3 men in C3, all others in BC. 6 days much snow fall and unable to move. C3 safe place but above and below much danger avalanches from Changtse.

  23 Sept near in C3 descend

  3 Oct one member of party of 3 reached C4 again in waist-deep snow and 4 Oct down again.

  Discussed with Yannick Seigneur, French West Ridge expedition leader, joining forces on West Ridge, which was safer from avalanches.

  4-12 Oct 3 Swiss members in C2 (Swiss and French C2's in same place) waiting for snow conditions to permit going up, but neither Swiss nor French went up.

  12 Oct - all to BC.

  14 Oct - left BC expedition finished.

  To C4 on 16 Sept:
    Romolo Nottaris
    Gianluigi Quarti 
    Ivano Regazzoni 
    Jean Troillet
    Aldo Verzaroli 

  In C3 and C2
    Jean Troillet
    Gianluigi Quarti
    Aldo Verzaroli

  Nottaris leader
  About 10 members
  Left Switzerland mid-Aug - arrive BC end Aug
  End of Oct finish
  North Face (try to make new route)
  Jean Troillet, Makalu 1982 is a member


  Nottaris (Swiss Makalu) - 5 Nov 1982

  Nottaris will be on Everest NE Ridge in early autumn 1983 and then come to Ama Dablam joining expedition already on Ama Dablam in autumn.


  Expedition Romolo Nottaris: Ice gully, North Face, highest point reached, 7400m abandoned due to bad weather. On Oct 12 Nottaris broke his leg on 7200m while descending. Running away from falling rock, stepped into small gap.

  Nottaris climbed 6700m peak about 3 Sept for acclimatization in solo trip one day BC->summit->BC. (40-50 degrees not very difficult) = point 6720m on Schneider Khumbu map, ESE of BC.


expid: PUMO83401
peakid: PUMO
year: 1983
route1: SE Buttress on S(E) Face
nation: USA
leaders: Jeff Lowe
sponsor: Colorado Nuptse Expedition
ascent1: 17th
bcdate: 1983-12-06
smtdate: 1983-12-18
smttime: 1630
termdate: 1983-12-20
othersmts: Had permit for Nuptse (NUPT-834-01)
campsites: BC(06/12,5300m),Biv1(15/12,5640m),Biv2(16/12,6250m),Biv3(17/12,6615m),Smt(18/12)
achievment: 1st solo ascent
agency: Sherpa Cooperative Trekking (SCT)
routememo:
  Jeff reached there in solo ascent. Reached top 4:30 pm (from 3rd biv at 9:00 am) and back to 3rd biv about midnight in bright moonlight. Returned to BC on 19th.

  Wiggins tried gully on face to 18,500 ft and would have carried on up if hadn't become ill for second time.

  Did not do route originally planned: wind so strong it was blowing rock off the ridges and so considerable rockfall. Had planned to climb deep gully to left of buttress actually climbed. Scottish Grade 4 and a little [Grade 5] ice climbing with hardest about 22,600 ft and some had between 20,500 and 21,000 ft.

  Wiggins altitude illness; on 8th he come down to Pheriche where Lowe recovering from cold. Returned to mountain and started up on 19th on originally planned route, got to 18,500 ft fixing rope, but got sick again that night and had to quit. Left Pumori BC in rush.

  No accidents. Had permit for Nuptse but with Wiggins sick they made no attempt.

  Dec 8 Wiggins developed pulmonary edema and evacuated to Namche by Lowe who returned to BC and made his climb. Wiggins returned to BC Dec 16 and again on 20th developed pulmonary edema. Planned expedition to Nuptse therefore cancelled.

accidents:
  Wiggins altitude illness: on 8th down to Pheriche where Lowe recovering from cold, returned to mtn and started up on 19th original planned route, got to 18,500 ft fixing rope, but got sick again that night


expid: GANG83101
peakid: GANG
year: 1983
route1: E Ridge from S
nation: Austria
leaders: Reinhold Amann
sponsor: Vorarlberger Himalaya Expedition
bcdate: 1983-03-22
smtdate: 1983-04-02
termdate: 1983-04-16
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to bad weather with heavy snow
campsites: BC(22/03,4000m),C1(25/03,4800m),C2(27/03,5600m),C3(02/04,6300m),xxx(02/04,6500m)
accidents: 13th April avalanche hit C3 and tent collasped (2 men cut tent with knife and got out)
routememo:
  BC south of Gangapurna on moraine of east branch of Modi Khola.

  Wanted to go to top on 3rd but weather bad with heavy snow and all went to BC on 3rd. All 4 started up on 8th reached C2 where spent 2 days snowbound. On 12th all up from C2 but one sick [Thoma] and Amann down with him to BC. Bitschnau and Mattle to C3 on 12th.

  Reached last crevasses above C3 and from C3 wanted to go to top. Too much snow and too dangerous from avalanching to go on. Had not actually reached W Ridge; changed to E Ridge before began climb after saw condition of W Ridge from BC.

  11:30 am 13 April avalanche hit C3 and tent collapsed. Bitschnau and Mattle cut tent with knife and got out in underwear and barefoot, saw another avalanche coming, dropped to ground, powder went over them and they dug out their sleeping bags, stove and biv sack and made snow cave. Clear 13th am, made better cave in avalanche danger zone. 14th to C2 in chest-high snow and 15th almost in C1 and returned to BC and climb finished.


expid: CHOY83101
peakid: CHOY
year: 1983
route1: W Ridge-W Face (Messner 1983 rte)
nation: Italy
leaders: Reinhold Messner
sponsor: German Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 4th
countries: W Germany
approach: Lukla->Nangpa La
bcdate: 1983-04-26
smtdate: 1983-05-05
termdate: 1983-05-08
campsites: BC(26/04,5200m),ABC(29/04,5600m),Biv1(02/05,6000m),Biv2(03/05,6600m),Biv3(04/05,7100m),Smt(05/05)
accidents: None
routememo:
  Storm strong wind and clouds from southwest. Summit huge plateau with several points, highest of which is at southeast plateau. Spent night before and after summit in 3rd bivouac, night of 6 May back in ABC and 7 May in BC.

  True southwest ridge is in China, so did a ridge on the southwest side to high point part of face. Partly technically difficult from 6400m to 7400m; steep snow and ice fields and some rock.


expid: AMAD83101
peakid: AMAD
year: 1983
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Arthur Haid
sponsor: Tirolean Ama Dablam Expedition 1983
ascent1: 21st
bcdate: 1983-04-02
smtdate: 1983-04-21
smttime: 1930
campsites: BC(02/04,4550m),C1(02/04,5030m),C2(05/04,5750m),C3(12/04,6000m),Smt(21/04)
routememo:
  Haid and Krismer started from C3 at 7:30 am 21 April and reached summit at 19:30 hrs as sun was going down. Bivouacked on summit for 12 hrs because too dangerous to go down in dark - very cold (-25 to -30 degrees). Made crude snow cave and stayed awake shivering all night. Took pictures when sun came up and 8:00 am started down; reached [C3] 13:00 hrs on 22nd where slept;  23rd to BC.

  No time for other summit attempt afterwards by other 2 members who had actually gone up for try before Haid and Krismer. They went as far as C2 and then had to descend because of snowstorm (doctor adds that he was struck by lightning during storm).

  Much snowfall after 12th, again 18th so some delay but strong winds blew away snow that would fall, were in hurry to finish climb. Also had no extra time left with 45-day air tickets.

accidents:
  Haid has frostbitten toes on both feet but may lose nothing [actually lost seven toes]; Krismer none; both walked from BC to Lukla; Haid thinks frostbite not from summit but tight boots


expid: KANG83102
peakid: KANG
year: 1983
route1: SW Face (variation on lower part)
nation: Austria
leaders: Hanns Schell
sponsor: Austrian Kangchenjunga Expedition
ascent1: 13th
bcdate: 1983-04-10
smtdate: 1983-05-28
smttime: 1145
campsites: BC(10/04,5500m),C1(20/04,6200m),C2(29/04,6500m),C3(04/05,7200m),C4(27/05,7800m),Smt(28/05)
accidents: None
routememo:
  2 Sherpas and Bachler made C4. Sherpas stayed in C4 on 28th while Bachler went up alone and without oxygen to top. He left C4 at 5:30 am and on top at 11:45 am, 10 mins on top in cold and clear weather and 1 hr back to C4. Had left BC on 25th May for this summit push.

  C4 to top dangerous loose snow on loose rocks. Lot of snow brought frequent avalanche danger and frequent retreats to await better weather.


expid: KGUR83101
peakid: KGUR
year: 1983
route1: W Face-NW Ridge
nation: W Germany
leaders: Bernhard Scherzer
sponsor: Munich Himalaya Expedition to Kang Guru
bcdate: 1983-04-22
smtdate: 1983-05-09
termdate: 1983-05-10
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to insufficient equipment
campsites: BC(22/04,3600m),C1(29/04,4900m),C2(05/05,5600m),C3(08/05,6000m),xxx(09/05,6200m)
accidents: One serious altitude illness and one minor injury in small fall
routememo:
  Made try for summit on 9th May by Scherzer and Brill. Got to 6200m when hard ice began. This ice continued for at least 500m and had no chance to go to top because would then a week to prepare route's fixed ropes and had insufficient equipment for this.

  Would have needed big team cutting steps in tedious hour after hour and risk of freezing toes standing in small cut steps. Lot of avalanches between BC and C1. Huge avalanche 2 meters from 2 members. Not so steep but very hard ice.

  A lot of equipment and clothing stolen by yak herders from C1. Police recovered almost all of it after a week.

  One serious altitude illness and one minor injury in small fall.

  Scherzer in conversation with EAH states that there is no N Ridge. Previous expeditions climbed W Face to NW Ridge (1955, 1982, 1983).

  Probably German 1978 and Japanese 1980 were on NW Ridge instead of NE Ridge [only Germans 1978 on NW Ridge, Japanese on (E)NE Ridge].


expid: LSHR83101
peakid: LSHR
year: 1983
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Giancarlo Riva
sponsor: Alpine Expedition City of Lecco Himalaya 1983 to Lhotse Shar
bcdate: 1983-03-31
smtdate: 1983-04-20
termdate: 1983-04-26
termnote: Abandoned at 6985m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(31/03,5300m),C1(02/04,6100m),C2(09/04,6600m),xxx(20/04,6985m)
accidents: None except 1 case altitude illness
achievment: 63-year-old doctor left early because of altitude sickness
routememo:
  BC on west side of Lhotse Glacier northwest of Island Peak.

  Site for C3 = high point plus 15m but not reached because bad weather: snow fall heavy and avalanche danger too acute. Young members wanted to stay on, but Riva called whole thing off and weather continued bad while they waited for porters to arrive.

  Winds impossible even in BC, 3 days bad weather for every 1 day of good; and avalanching danger. Winds of 100-150 km/hr and 40 cm snow almost daily. Would have had to stay one month more to succeed but in one more month climbers bodies deteriorate too much at altitude.

  Could succeed in good weather. Route difficulties not a problem in technicalities for this team, just constant strong wind and snowfall.


expid: KANG83101
peakid: KANG
year: 1983
route1: N Face
nation: W Germany
leaders: Hermann Warth
sponsor: Bavarian Kangchenjunga Expedition
approach: Dhankuta->Ghunsa->Pangpema (BC)
bcdate: 1983-03-27
smtdate: 1983-05-01
termdate: 1983-05-10
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(27/03,5050m),C1(20/03,5700m),C2(18/04,6600m),C3(22/04,7200m),C4(01/05,7900m),xxx(01/05,7900m)
routememo:
  For 2nd May planned to go to top by Warth and Ang Chopal, but by 8 am weather remained bad as last night. Went down to BC and missed short period excellent weather. Went again to C3 but bad weather because warm and waist-deep snow followed by heavy snowfall and avalanches.

  Difficult: Ang Chopal and Warth led entire climb. Between 6000m to 6600m, right of Scott route, difficult rock and ice mixed and then ice only; very hard ice requiring double fixed ropes. Between 7200 and 7450m difficult steep rock.

  Nawang Tenzing fell on glacier and cut open his forehead on 6 April. Miss Geiss got serious altitude illness at BC and both left expedition.

  19 April: Leutgaeb's old frostbite recurring and left expedition 4 May. Nawang Tenzing and Leutgaeb were next strongest climbers after Warth and Ang Chopal.

accidents:
  Nawang Tenzing fell on glacier and cut open his forehead on 6th April; Miss Geiss got serious altitude illness at BC; Leutgaeb's old frostbite recurring


expid: AMAD83102
peakid: AMAD
year: 1983
route1: E Ridge to Serac-ice face up; S Face down
nation: Belgium
leaders: Nadine Hubert
sponsor: Belgio-Swiss 1983 Expedition to the Himalaya - Ama Dablam
ascent1: 22nd
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 1983-04-10
smtdate: 1983-04-26
smttime: 1200
campsites: BC(10/04,5250m),C1(13/04,5700m),C2(16/04,6000m),C3(19/04,6200m),C4(20/04,6300m),Smt(26/04)
accidents: Georges has 4 frostbitten fingers from making snowhole for 4th bivouac
routememo:
  Hubert and Georges started for C4 on 22 April and 1st biv at 6350m of seracs. 22 April bad weather, Hubert fell 60m and lost rucksack with sleeping bag and camera, leaving them with one bag, returned to bivouac. 

  24 April again up, good weather and snow later therefore got to end of 2 km ridge and started up face with seracs and bived at 6600m on small plateau from 25 April same several face; bived just under 70m wall at 6750m. 

  26 April up the ice wall to summit at 12 pm in beautiful weather. Then in descent too dangerous to return by same ridge in exhausted condition and without food and drink, so came down S Face to 5500m, where Dr. waited with biv gear.

  Route difficult. Waited to stay on east and not get around on north; east was their plan and wanted to stay on new route on east. Last 70m was 90 degrees ice wall; above C2 lots of cornices, very dangerous; last 500m serac to go up or around in lots of fresh snow.


expid: MAKA83102
peakid: MAKA
year: 1983
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Wounter Panis
sponsor: Flemish Himalaya Expedition 1983
bcdate: 1983-04-05
smtdate: 1983-05-16
termdate: 1983-05-17
termnote: Abandoned at 8050m due to bad weather
accidents: 1 porter died on return march
campsites:
  BC(05/04,5300m),C1(10/04,6300m),C2(29/04,6930m),C3(06/05,7400m),C4A(14/05,7750m),C4B(16/05,8050m),xxx(16/05,8050m)

routememo:
  Planned to leave BC 22 May and so when bad weather 4-5 days after 2nd C4 established, decided they must stop. By then had stayed long time at high altitude and were exhausted.

  1 porter died on return march.


expid: BARU83101
peakid: BARU
year: 1983
route1: NW Face-N Smt
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Joost Ubbink
sponsor: Baruntse 1983
ascent1: 1st of N Smt
bcdate: 1983-04-04
smtdate: 1983-05-04
termnote: Abandoned at N Smt (7057m) due to running out of time
campsites: BC(04/04,5000m),C1(09/04,5250m),C2(12/04,5500m),C3(27/04,6220m),Biv(03/05,6600m),N-Smt(04/05,7057m)
accidents: None serious - slight altitude problems
achievment: 1st ascent of North Smt of Baruntse
routememo:
  Running out of time and technically climb was finished. "It just was enough" to have gotten to North Summit. We enjoyed this much and it was enough. Had decided on 1 May to go only to this point. Also all the time very strong winds and maybe we didn't like going on ridge in this wind.

  Hard ice on face and long route. 800-900m quite steep and because of hard ice quite difficult. On upper part of face lot of loose rock which kept falling but hit no one.


expid: JANU83101
peakid: JANU
year: 1983
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Henri Sigayret
sponsor: French Expedition to the SW Ridge of Jannu
ascent1: 11th
approach: Dharan->Ghunsa->Yamatari Glacier (BC)
bcdate: 1983-03-29
smtdate: 1983-04-29
smttime: 1500
termdate: 1983-05-05
accidents: None
campsites:
  BC(29/03,4500m),C1(31/03,5000m),C2(07/04,5500m),C3(17/04,6000m),C4(20/04,6500m),C5(27/04,7000m),C6(28/04,7400m),Smt(29/04)

routememo:
  Not difficult to do last part, which Czechoslovakians avoided [in 1981], straight to summit: 55 degrees in good snow (Czechs were exhausted). Most difficult part was very steep ice (10m high but vertical) at about 6900m and also steep ice just below C4: 65-degree hard blue ice, also chimney very difficult pitch. 

  Others did not try: 1 ill, 1 hit in back by rock and was taking care of ill member; leader needed fixed rope which wasn't there. C1 to C2 very dangerous: steep icefall also.

  Fillon carried parachute to summit and tried to jump from top down N Face and again from C6 but wind too strong. At C6 tried to run on snow patch but wind came in all directions. He fell 20m and did not try again. With gentle steady wind would have been possible from top to C1.


expid: MANA83101
peakid: MANA
year: 1983
route1: S Face/S Ridge
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Vinko Maroevic
sponsor: Split Alpine Expedition to Manaslu
bcdate: 1983-03-31
smtdate: 1983-04-23
termdate: 1983-04-24
campsites: BC(31/03,4000m),C1(01/04,4400m),C2(06/04,5300m),C3(19/04,5700m),C4(22/04,6500m),xxx(23/04,7000m)
accidents: Fatal avalanche 100m above C1 on April 24 (Bucan and Zaplotnik killed, Gregov severely injured)
termnote:
  Abandoned at 7000m due to fatal avalanche showed lower part of face too dangerous (had lost 2 friends)

routememo:
  Base to 5700m Austrian 1972 same route and hence Yugoslavians more direct to S Face. C2 destroyed by strong wind on 15th April and had to be replaced. Very easy route C2 to C3.

  Fatal avalanche 100m above C1 on April 24. Bucan and Zaplotnik killed, Gregov severely injured.


expid: HIME83101
peakid: HIME
year: 1983
route1: S Ridge from W
nation: Poland
leaders: Tadeusz Piotrowski
sponsor: Polish Gynia Himalayan Expedition to Himalchuli
bcdate: 1983-05-01
smtdate: 1983-05-22
termdate: 1983-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to snow, fierce winds and many avalanches
campsites: BC(01/05,4200m),C1(02/05,5200m),C2(04/05,6100m),C3(17/05,7100m),Biv(20/05,7350m),xxx(22/05,7600m)
accidents: None
routememo:
  Snow and fierce wind defeated 22 May bid and on 23 May returned to BC. Climb then abandoned because warm weather brought dangerous soft, deep snow and many avalanches. 16 May big serac avalanches destroyed C1, which happened to be empty (1 day before 6 members in it) and equipment in C1 found 2 km below.

  Last part is very steep rock from 7300m to summit, the main problem of this route. Used 1600m fixed rope from C2 to C3.


expid: GAUR83102
peakid: GAUR
year: 1983
route1: S Face
nation: Poland
leaders: Tadeusz Preyzner
sponsor: Warsaw Mountaineering Expedition to Rolwaling Himalaya
bcdate: 1983-03-31
smtdate: 1983-04-10
termdate: 1983-04-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to bad weather and heavy showfall
campsites: BC(31/03,4000m),xxx(10/04,6000m)
accidents: None
routememo:
  Acclimatization up to 5020m 4 April to 5 April, down to BC for rest and again up 8th April to 6000m 10 April and again down. 1 week very bad weather. 10th April went up for summit push. For 1st 3 days good weather and reached 6000m but again heavy snowfall. Had to wait 2 days for sun to thaw snow and 4 could descend and in night 24/25th could go down safely; went to BC and gave up. Left BC 30 April.

  Main problem was snowfall which brought avalanches. Also did not have right equipment: no place to pitch tents, so needed hanging tents. Would like to come back again, considering this spring as reconnaissance.


  Lindsay Griffin (email) - 12 Jan 2014

  Poles made the first significant attempt on the South Face in 1983, coming in from the left to gain the steep, shallow couloir left of the Central Pillar. Wieslaw Grzybowski, Lech Kiedrowski, Andrzej Mirga and Tadeusz Preyzner reached ca 6000m before making a difficult retreat in heavy snowfall. In 1985 the same line was attempted by Tsuyoshi Ohizumi and Kensaku Sakai. Three years previously the latter had made a notable first ascent of 7163m Hachindar Chhish in the Karakoram. The Japanese pair climbed in three days to 6100m when Sakai fell and hit his head. They bivouacked and descended the next day, but at 5900m Sakai fell again, this time to the bottom of the face. Ohizumi was unable to locate his body and the face was left alone until 2011 when Stefan Glowacz, David Goettler and Klaus Fengler arrived to attempt the Central Pillar. The weather was so bad they were only able to climb a rope-length above the base before giving up.


expid: DHA183101
peakid: DHA1
year: 1983
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Wojciech Szymanski
sponsor: Gdansk-Torun Polish Himalayan Expedition to Dhaulagiri I
ascent1: 23rd
countries: Austria, W Germany
bcdate: 1983-04-21
smtdate: 1983-05-18
smttime: 1600
campsites: BC(21/04,4800m),C1(26/04,5800m),C2(27/04,6400m),C3(10/05,7100m),C4(17/05,7600m),Smt(18/05)
routememo:
  Tried twice to make C3 earlier but bad weather prevented this. On 17th May 4 set out for top at 9 am, on top c4:00 pm by 1 man and last man 5:00 pm. In descent could not find C4, so bived 200m above it in snowhole. Next day in C4 and 19 May 3 to C1 and Laukajtys to C3 only with 2 others there [Lwow and Karolczak].

  No other summit attempts because bad weather man Lwow and Karolczak who wanted to try had to look after frostbitten men.

  No route problems, very easy route. Danger from avalanches just above BC (but did not camp on col as an ABC).

accidents:
  Severe frostbite to Laukajty's all 10 fingers (probably lose all), Jezierski's 10 toes ( 2-3 will probably be lost) from summit night's biv; no accidents


expid: GAUR83101
peakid: GAUR
year: 1983
route1: SW Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Masaaki Tomita
sponsor: 1983 Yeti Dojin Gaurishankar Expedition
bcdate: 1983-03-29
smtdate: 1983-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to very tired at 50m rock wall and too much snowfall
campsites: BC(29/03,3900m),C1(02/04,4900m),C2(10/04,5200m),C3(18/04,5450m),C4(30/04,6400m),xxx(22/05,7000m)
accidents: Nimura hit on knee by falling rock at C3 on 5th May
routememo:
  Too much snowfall, no avalanches but each day had make route again. Nimura hit by rock and member had to get him down mountain. After Tomita and Takahashi went with him to Kathmandu, only 6 members left and very tired.

  Above 7000m, 50m vertical rock wall and all members very tired and 3 had left because of Nimura's injury. Above rock wall, no problem, easy snow field.


expid: TUKU83101
peakid: TUKU
year: 1983
route1: N Ridge from Ridge at French Pass
nation: Japan
leaders: Hisako Yamamoto
sponsor: Tukuche Peak Expedition 1983 (Bush Women's Mtnrg Club)
ascent1: 6th
bcdate: 1983-04-26
smtdate: 1983-05-09
campsites: BC(26/04,5200m),C1(30/04,5700m),C2(04/05,6200m),C3(07/05,6500m),Biv(08/05,6600m),Smt(09/05)
accidents: Nothing serious; frequent falls into crevasses but no injuries
routememo:
  Slope very difficult. Even more so without Pemba Norbu and Nawang Yonden making route and helping with climb. Technically not so difficult but ridge steep and sharp.


expid: CHMN83101
peakid: CHMN
year: 1983
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yoshiharu Miyashiro
sponsor: Nepal and Keio University Joint Himalayan Expedition 1983
bcdate: 1983-04-24
smtdate: 1983-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(24/04,4150m),C1(01/05,4900m),C2(05/05,5700m),C3(13/05,6400m),xxx(23/05,7000m)
routememo:
  Carried loads to C4 site 6800m in mid-May and then all down to BC. 20th May attack party of Harada, Akao, Dorje and Mingma Tshering started up from BC to C1. Summit attack scheduled for 24 May, but attack party 22 May reached C3 and found 2 tents broken by heavy snow and gave up plan to make C4 because C3 tent was to be taken to C4. So now decided to make summit attack directly from C3 towards top, reached 7000m and turned back because route long with deep snow returned to C3 and slept there 23 May night. 

  24 May these 4 plus Iwanaga and 2 Sherpas (also in C3 23rd night) down from C3. At C2 7 men found no tent and one man was there; Ikari also not there. They dug in snow, found one tent where Ikari slept but he was not in it. Weather bad and 7 men down to C1 and to BC on 24th. 25th May Hirao, Miyashiro and 3 Sherpas to C2 and dug in snow. 2 again down to return to Kathmandu while others found 2nd tent and Ikari inside tent but nothing else. Think small avalanches hit Ikari in big tent at midnight and he escaped to small tent only to be crushed there. 4 down also to C1 and 26 May all up again and brought body to BC where Kanai determined death by suffocation. Body to be cremated 29 May.

  Route not very difficult although same problems with icefall; ridge is very wide and had many avalanches with this spring's heavy snowfall.


expid: LCHA83101
peakid: LCHA
year: 1983
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kyoko Endo
sponsor: Nepal-Japan Women's Joint Exp to Mt. Changla (Jungfrau AC)
bcdate: 1983-05-06
smtdate: 1983-05-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to difficult climb on snow ridge
campsites: BC(06/05,4300m),C1(09/05,4900m),C2(15/05,5400m),C3(19/05,6000m),C4(27/05,6200m),xxx(28/05,6300m)
accidents: Only 3 hepatitis cases
routememo:
  Very difficult climb on snow ridge: very sharp with hidden crevasses and cornices, sometimes ice face. Also 3 members became sick of hepatitis and so with escort, 4 left early depleting forces and one really strong Sherpa. Then at 6300m no more fixed rope left and Sherpas refused to climb without it. Fuel also finished and season almost finished.

  SW Ridge = border - S(E) and N Ridges look easier, but S(E) Ridge is in China and N Ridge too difficult to get out to, so climbed via SW Ridge.


  10 Nov 1998 - Japanese Changla and Kanti Himal expeditions:

  Autumn 1998 climbing leader Tamotsu Onishi:

  1983 Japanese attempt on Changla was via W Ridge to S Peak about 6700m which is actually highest peak of Changla and is on border with Tibet and is south of official main peak 6563m.

  Three of the 5 Sherpas, including one woman, have been designated as the expedition's Nepalese members.


expid: NEMJ83101
peakid: NEMJ
year: 1983
route1: NE Ridge from SE
nation: Japan
leaders: Teizo Yoshino
sponsor: Sendai Nepal Himalaya Expedition
bcdate: 1983-03-17
smtdate: 1983-05-07
termdate: 1983-05-08
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to snow everyday, very steep and sharp ice rock on E Ridge
accidents: Few hits by avalanches but nothing serious
campsites:
  BC(17/03,4050m),ABC(22/03,4220m),C1(30/03,5080m),C2(12/04,5660m),C3(25/04,5960m),C4(06/05,6190m),xxx(07/05,6500m)

routememo:
  Expeditions to Himlung prior to 1992 were probably climbing Nemjung.

  Very steep and sharp ice and rock = E ridge. Snow every day, sometimes more than 50 cm/day. Route in couloir had daily avalanches and could move only in mornings because too dangerous in afternoons, so took many days to built up 4 camps. Needed fixed rope on ridge in 2 more days, but not enough rope left after fixing 6000m rope already. Also members altitude sickness and 2 Sherpas left leaving not enough manpower.

  Above BC were 3 Sherpa members and 1 H-A porter.


expid: PUMO82401
peakid: PUMO
year: 1982
route1: S Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Nam Sun-Woo
sponsor: Korean Winter Pumori Expedition
ascent1: 16th
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1982-11-27
smtdate: 1982-12-11
smttime: 1612
termdate: 1982-12-16
campsites: BC(27/11,5350m),C1(03/12,5950m),C2(09/12,6400m),Biv(6800m),Smt(11/12)
accidents: No accidents, no real frostbite (Nam 2 numb fingers)
routememo:
  10 Dec Nam alone made route towards summit 150m above C2 and returned to C2 to sleep. 11th Dec 6 am Nam and Lhakpa Gyalzen left. [On top] 4:12 pm - very late because made no C3 as Japanese had done, though no need more fixed rope and could move up very quickly in very good weather. On top very windy, stayed 2 minutes; descent more difficult and moved slowly. Stopped at 7:30 pm at 6800m and made little snowhole. Had only down jacket, down boots and winter trousers. Sherpas had no down boots but also no frostbite. 12th Dec 7:20 am started descent again and reached C2 11 am. Lee in C1 and thinks Nam dead until Nam comes on walkie-talkie from C2. Lee did not attempt summit because no one to go with. With only 2 members and 1 Sherpa would have been better to have a C3, but with windy weather that came up maybe would not succeed in reaching top if took time for making the added camp. C1 to C2 most difficult: 2 big rocks on this S Ridge route. All fixed rope on this very steep rock and ice section.

  No accident, no real frostbite (Nam 2 numb fingers).


  Sharma, Tourism - 17 Dec 82

  Summit 11 Dec. At 6:00 am Nam Sun-Woo started climbed from C3 at 6450m. Reached top 4:12 pm where sunny but very very windy and planted Nepal and Korean flags but couldn't stay more than 2 minutes because high winds. In descent could not reach C2 and bived at 6800m. On 12 Dec returned to C2 at 9:00 am and to BC 13 Dec.

  Leave BC 16 Dec. Other climber, Lee Hyun-Soo became sick and did not climb above C2 in expedition.

  All well, no frostbite.


  Kim - 16 Nov 82

  Advanced party left KTM on 24 Oct with caravan on foot to Khumbu. Leader leaves KTM 21 Nov to Lukla.


  Nam - 19 oct 82

  Route up South Ridge, climbed by Japanese.
  Leave KTM 5 Nov by plane to Lukla and acclimatize.
  Start climb 1 Dec and reach summit 15 Dec. Make 2 camps above BC.
  BC 5500m
  C1 6100m
  C2 6750m
  1 Sherpa above BC = 3 men climbing 
  No oxygen
  Korean Winter Pumori Expedition


expid: AMAD82401
peakid: AMAD
year: 1982
route1: S Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Robert Siegrist
sponsor: American Winter Expedition to Ama Dablam
bcdate: 1982-12-03
smtdate: 1982-12-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6550m due to wind and cold
campsites: BC(03/12,4815m),C1(09/12,5820m),C2(15/12,6000m),C3(22/12,6310m),xxx(24/12,6550m)
routememo:
  Murphy left expedition 13th Dec - homesick; Jorgenson left 25th Dec. 

  On 24th and 26th tried for top. 24th Siegrist, Jorgenson, Krueger and Risse got to 21,500 ft. 26th Siegrist and Krueger got to 21,300 ft. After 24th try other 2 went down. Attempt defeated by wind and cold, 2nd [attempt] by both these and altitude related problems.
   
  No further attempts: short on food and manpower and by time got to BC was snowing.

  1st time in Himalaya for all and learned a lot, even walking was mental hassle, postage shortage, etc. Climb itself well within capabilities. High wind more continuous than expected. 

  No accidents, no real frostbite. No Sherpas above BC which took its toll in hauling loads.


  Attributed to HMG:

  Abandoned 25 Dec after 2 attempts 24 and 25 Dec defeated by extreme cold and high wind; highest point 21,500 ft. All safe and return ot KTM 2 and 3 Jan. 

  22 Dec C3 20,700 ft


  Sharma, Tourism - 24 Dec 82

  C2 13 Dec 19,700 ft. Hope C3 20,700 ft by 21 Dec says leaders letter on 14th and summit soon thereafter. Weather had been acceptable and all well.


  Sharma, Tourism - 17 Dec 82

  Ama Dablam C1 9 Dec 17,000 ft. From 12 Dec started making for C2.


  Siegrist - 14 Nov 82

  First time in Nepal for all 6 members. Chose Ama Dablam for experience.

  Leave KTM 19th or 20th walking in and hope BC early Dec at 15,700 ft high in Mingbo Valley and ABC at 17,000 ft before getting onto South Ridge.

  Route = South Ridge (standard route)
  Modified fixed camps, not camps and same fixed rope on difficult sections, move camp upwards.
  High camp at 20,500 ft or so.
  No Sherpas above BC.
  No oxygen at all.
  Summit between Xmas and N Years, probably New Years more reasonable.


expid: CHOY82401
peakid: CHOY
year: 1982
route1: SE Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Reinhold Messner
sponsor: South Tirolean Cho Oyu Winter Expedition 1982-83
countries: Austria, Poland
approach: Lukla->Gokyo Valley
bcdate: 1982-11-29
smtdate: 1982-12-18
termdate: 1982-12-22
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to dangerous seracs
othersmts: Island Peak summited by all members except Oelz in Nov 1982
campsites: BC(29/11,5200m),C1(02/12,6000m),C2(06/12,6600m),C3(18/12,7500m),xxx(18/12,7500m)
routememo:
  Messner wants Cho Oyu again via SW Face which is probably more difficult but less dangerous. Would like it for next autumn with one other, Kammerlander. "On normal route sure to succeed."

  Alpine-style, Dhaulagiri I NE Ridge, Spring 1984.
  S Face Lhotse - more direct route than Yugoslavs - 12 good climbers.
  E Face of Makalu.
  W Face of Ama Dablam - it's not so high. 

  I'm not so interested in winter. Weather better, cold not so bad and winds. "Did not stop climbing except once. Did not think we could be stopped in winter by snow. Now I've had the experience."

  Our camp sites 100% safe but route had to pass under serac, threatening walk where had to run across. "Its a dangerous face, more dangerous than difficult. Difficult part was pillar."


  Oelz - 25 Dec 82

  Hanny on 16 Dec at beginning of pillar at 7100m. At 15:20 hours big avalanche came off at about 7500m and roared over him; he was in crevasse in small tent where he bivouacing for the night and helped Reinhold and Hans on the pillar (then at that time in C2 at 6600m) next day, which he did. Oelz had been with Hanny that day but had no interest in biv and was descending where heard seracs break off icefall from seracs all the time. Stone fell also. On 17th Messner and Hans escaped from high piece of rock which smashed into pieces 10m above him at about 7300m.

  Kurtyka, Eisendle and Oelz in Karl-accident area. If 5 minutes earlier at a site would have been buried by ice avalanche, on 6th or 7th Dec, so actually only got hit by shower of tiny ice particles.

  Mutschlechner did not go above C1 because frostbite not entirely healed from Kangchenjunga.

  Actually all members Ok; no injuries, no frostbite.

  No sign of Karl or Austrian C2 near where he was killed by ice avalanche.

  "I consider us very lucky that all of us came back even without the summit."

  Messner today in Lukla, to KTM tomorrow; waiting for all loads to reach Lukla today by yak.

  Hanny thinks because altitude didn't realize his danger and was deep in crevasse. Pieces of ice did bury him and he had to dig himself out, then stayed where he was. 


  Sharma, Tourism - 24 Dec 82

  Failed on SE Face after making C3 18 Dec 7500m. All difficulties climbed, but endless powder snow made it impossible to continue, so we had to give up at beginning of less steep summit slopes.

  "It was an important experience, hard climb and hard conditions."
  22nd Dec will leave BC.


  Sharma, Tourism - 12 Dec 82

  Messner's letter to Sharma says they made a temperature C2 at 6600m on 6 Dec. All well.


  Messner - 2 Nov 82

  7 climbers and 4 Sherpas above BC - Ang Dorje 
  Route = SE Face, perhaps above 6500m will be same as unauthorized Austrian-Germans.
  BC at 5100m on right side of glacier.
  Maximum 3 camps above BC, possibly 2 only. Snowholes in every camp.
  Start climb 1st Dec, will go to summit: "small chance if we do not do it before Xmas."

  More than 60 steepness in middle of face; will require fixed ropes with winter wind. 2 weeks minimum to prepare face for summit push. Probably 3 weeks climb. No oxygen at all.

  Official name in Nepal: Italian-Nepalese Cho Oyu Winter Expedition.
  For selves: South Tirolean Cho Oyu Winter Expedition 1982-3.

  Fly to Lukla on 6 Nov. Oelz arrives 6 Nov and he and Messner probably go to Lukla on 7th.


expid: ANN182301
peakid: ANN1
year: 1982
route1: S Face
nation: UK
leaders: Alexander (Alex) MacIntyre
sponsor: An Expedition to Annapurna I via its S Face
countries: Italy
bcdate: 1982-09-14
smtdate: 1982-10-13
othersmts: Climbed Glacier Dome (GLAC-823-01)
campsites: BC(14/09,4270m),C1(18/09,5900m),xxx(13-17/10,7200m)
accidents: MacIntyre fatal accident
agency: Sherpa Cooperative Trekking (SCT)
routememo:
  BC = Bonington BC at 14,000 ft on 14th Sept.

  Rene and John went up to biv at foot of face at 5900m 18th Sept; face then like Niagara Falls with constant snowfall. Figured by end of Oct will be cold and no problem, so went back to BC where Alex had infected toe. Col between Modeste and Himalchuli and to Glacier Dome via new route. All 3 were 10m below below summit 6th Oct from plateau between Fluted and Glacier Dome. Abandoned idea of descent from Annapurna I via E Ridge and decided would have to go down N Face.

  Down to BC for rest. Porter not well; other 2 went to face on 13th Oct.

  Sharma report correct except they reached 7200m. Rene did not go up to recover body - was Porter and sirdar, but sirdar not climbing man and storm blew up so gave up and came to KTM as quickly as possible. Porter returns tomorrow and hopes to catch up with Al Burgess now trekking in C area. Rene may also go. If snowing heavily as is likely, today body may be away. Will build stone chorten next to Ian Clough.

  Got to 7000m on 15th Oct, then very difficult vertical if not overhanging rock barrier; above that only 2 days to summit via top of Polish route once they surmounted rock barrier.

  Rene would return thru route but Porter not. Polish route much safer and lot easier and would consider this one. Bonington route also safe (but Japanese not). "Line Alex chose is superb, but you must be totally to accept risk."


  Sharma, Tourism - 21 Oct 82

  MacIntyre killed Oct 17 at about 10:30 am while descending with Rene on South Face to BC. Killed when 5 kg stone struck him at back of neck. He rolled 250m down. After 2 hours Rene could reach him and found his neck broken and dead. Rene carried body to safe place and covered it with biv sack and left it there. Rene arrived BC same day.

  MacIntyre and Rene had reached 7000m on face because of shortage of rock pitons to climb steep rock above 7000m. Had decided to come to BC and rest 2-3 days before resuming climb alpine-style.

  Porter and Rene tried to move body to BC next day but failed because shortage of manpower. Left BC 19 Oct to arrange helicopter to bring body to KTM and UK.


  Cheney, SCT - 21 Oct 82
  Laliguras

  Alex MacIntyre killed at bottom of face; hit by falling rock. Porter arrived KTM today; Rene in Pokhara, arrive tomorrow.

  Had not reached top. Acclimatization not right and were coming down for rest and then push for top.


  MacIntyre - 5 Sept 82

  3 here now. Rouse not coming. Kurtyka might come (will come to KTM in Oct in any case).

  Route on South Face probably to right of Polish route to Annapurna I ridge (east of middle summit) and thence to main summit ideally; possibly up couloir between British and Japanese route.

  Leave KTM 7 Sept. Rene might have to stay behind for baggage. Have requested Fluted Peak tkg peak permit) which will give acclimatization and good views of Annapurna South Face.
  Arrive BC 15 Sept; same BC for both mountains, 16,000 ft
  Fluted Peak summit 25-6 Sept if weather fine.

  Annapurna I "has to be alpine style: 3 people, 1 rope and a bivy sack"
  No Sherpas above BC.
  No oxygen at all and no doctor.
  Speed up Annapurna depends on John Porter route of acclimatization.
  Would like to be up and down Annapurna I in 1st week of Oct; depends on acclimatization and on when fierce winds might come. 
  Expedition has no name.


expid: PUMO82302
peakid: PUMO
year: 1982
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Steve Van Meter
sponsor: 1982 American Himalayan Expedition
bcdate: 1982-10-03
smtdate: 1982-10-07
termdate: 1982-10-11
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to illnesses
campsites: BC(03/10,5250m),Dep(07/10,5800m),xxx
accidents: No accidents or frostbites
agency: Mountain Travel
routememo:
  Van Meter got sick at Jorsale for first time and had diarrhea for 10 days and then at BC section dehydration and then got wrenching cough.

  BC established on 3 Oct at 17,200 to 17,300 ft. Dump at 19,000ft (5800m) on 7th Oct = highest point reached by both members. 10th Oct left BC for climb but hour out of BC below dump, Van Meter's health drove him back down. Had gone more directly towards W Face than Japanese had done; were not actually yet on face.

  Nima Sherpa went up with McCullough to clear dump after Van Meter dropped out, only time he went above BC.

  McCullough and Van Meter wants to come to Pumori with 2 others in 1985; could not trust Schenck after "same things he did" on way to BC.


  Ale, Tourism - 12 Oct 82

  Schenck left because of personal differences between Schenck and others, Van Meter writes.

  BC 2 Oct
  C1 9 Oct - 5920m


  Jeb Schenck - 10 Oct 82

  At Thyangboche Van Meter and other member told Schenck he was not trusted and no longer part of expedition. Jeb never even got to BC.


  Bobby Chettri, Mountain Travel - 17 Sept 82

  Pumori expedition left today. Plan to climb up West Face and descend via NW Ridge = Traverse says Sharma of Tourism. Have cancelled plans to attempt Kusum Kangru also (no funds).


  Steve Van Meter - 7 Sept 82

  Route = West Face or NW Ridge if can get permit for it - NW Ridge. 
  Leave 17 Sept by road to Lamosangu or Kirantichap.

  Arrive BC 4 Oct at latest maybe 1 Oct on Changri Shar Glacier southwest of Pumori at about 5400m.

  Alpine ascent carrying 1 tent and 4 ropes. 
  5 days climbing if on face, don't know how many days if on ridge.
  No Sherpas above BC. 
  Maybe medical oxygen (none for climb).

  Return mid-November after attempt on Kusum Kangru except Tom McCullough who flies from Lukla 1 or 2 Nov.

  1982 American Himalaya Expedition


expid: NILN82301
peakid: NILN
year: 1982
route1: SE Face
nation: UK
leaders: Michael Fowkes
sponsor: British Nilgiri N Expedition
bcdate: 1982-09-17
smtdate: 1982-09-28
termdate: 1982-09-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6160m because route too difficult when alone
campsites: BC(17/09,4270m),ABC(19/09,4875m),C1(22/09,5640m),C2(27/09,6095m),xxx(28/09,6160m)
accidents: Fowkes altitude sickness
routememo:
  At ABC Fowkes developed symptoms of cerebral edema, so both went down couple of days hoping he'd get better but didn't. 

  Gunson back up on 26th alone, established C2, went up little from C2 but too difficult to climb safely by one man. On 28th went to 20,200 ft and then retreated same day to BC.

  Were on SE Face; found Japanese ABC and a bit of rope in couloir.

  Gunson fell 20 ft during climb alone but no harm done.

  Report released by ministry incorrect about altitudes because Fowkes set altimeter wrong.


expid: MAKA95301
peakid: MAKA
year: 1995
route1: SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Daniel Mazur
sponsor: Makalu SE Ridge Expedition
ascent1: 49th
countries: France, Russia, Switzerland, UK
bcdate: 1995-09-03
smtdate: 1995-10-09
accidents: Slight frostbite by summiters
achievment: 1st British summiters
agency: In Wilderness (Kunga)
campsites:
  BC(03/09,4800m),ABC(08/09,5400m),C1(13/09,6000m),C2(15/09,6550m),Biv3(06/10,7200m),Biv4(07/10,7750m),Biv5(08/10,8100m),Smt(09/10)

routememo:
  BC  south of Barun Pokhari
  ABC NNE of Barun Pokhari
  C1  on glacier southwest of southeast Glacier
  C2  at South Col
  Biv 3 at SE Ridge - the mushroom (rock)
  Biv 4 in Cwm (eastern Cwm)
  Biv 5 at west wall of eastern Cwm.

  SE Face too dangerous from avalanching so not attempted. Winds from east got stronger as ths summit team came down from camp/biv 5 to C2 on 10th. Lost 2 tents early in climb at S Col. From 15th Sept to 3 Oct very bad weather with 1 meter of unconsolidated snow and strong winds that blew snow especially at S Col. Most difficult section at 8400m rock on West Pillar (50-75m high) which couldn't surmount and had to climb around in very deep snow on steep cliff. Snow, rain and wind from 3 Sept to 3 Oct and this demoralized member who left early. With weather not letting up, it was not possible to make fixed camps above South Col; wanted to make at least one camp in cwm.


expid: BARU95301
peakid: BARU
year: 1995
route1: W Pillar up; SE Ridge down
nation: Russia
leaders: Sergei Efimov
sponsor: Alp-Sport Expedition 1995
ascent1: 36th
bcdate: 1995-09-23
smtdate: 1995-10-11
smttime: 1500
termdate: 1995-10-16
accidents: None
achievment: 1st ascent of W Pillar
agency: Everest Trekking
campsites:
  BC(23/09,5450m),Biv1(03/10,5950m),Biv2(05/10,6100m),Biv3(06/10,6350m),Biv4(07/10,6510m),Biv5(08/10,6710m),Biv6(10/10,6950m),Smt(11/10)

routememo:
  BC at normal BC (on west side) for SE Ridge, west-southwest of West Col
  Biv 1 near top of Icefall
  Biv 2 at beginning of W Pillar
  Biv 3 on W Pillar
  Biv 4 on W Pillar
  Biv 5 on W Pillar
  Biv 6 on W Pillar just below South Summit on SE Ridge.

  1st climbed to West Col 27-28th to mark descent route in weather bad (snow and cloud) and could see nothing and went only to 6500m and back to BC. Next searched for route to icefall, which is easy. Fixed ropes but after climbed up, then made biv above, removed rope and used again. Summited on 11 Oct at 3 pm (left biv 6 at 9 am). In descent biv near south summit at 5 pm; next down S Ridge to BC on 12th at 2:30 pm. Others went up 6600m for making route of descent. Next difficult section in mixed rock and ice below to above biv 6 at 65 degrees; problem to find belay points because ice covered rock and Efimov just above last biv and here route steeper (75 degrees for 50m).

  No other team had started climbing Baruntse when Russians were on it.


expid: BARU95302
peakid: BARU
year: 1995
route1: SE Ridge from W
nation: Germany
leaders: Andreas Kraus
sponsor: Amical Alpin Baruntse Expedition 1995
approach: Hongu and Mera La
bcdate: 1995-10-11
smtdate: 1995-10-23
termdate: 1995-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 7050m due to member's slight accident that left no client's strength
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (by 6 members who left Baruntse expedition)
campsites: BC(11/10,5400m),C1(15/10,6145m),C2(20/10,6600m),xxx(23/10,7050m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at West Col
  C2 below ridge.
  High point at SE Ridge.

  Planned summit bid for 21 Sept but heavy snowfall during night of 20/21 sent the 7 in C2 down to BC. Most members wanted to go to Island Peak because of deep snow so 7 members went with sirdar to Island Peak while Kraus, Heckele & Winklhofer stayed at Baruntse BC. 

  22 Oct up to C1, 23rd 3 am & in 2-1/2 hours in C2; very strong wind but reached ridge 8 am (had waited for sunrise) at 7000m. Here found 90-degrees ice wall 2-1/2 to 4m high & ridge totally blank ice; Kraus putting in ice and screws and when Heckele fell and hanging from fixed rope and had no energy to get out of this fix; Kraus had to come down 150-200m in wind to see what had happened, cut Heckele from fixed rope (who was not injured) and helped him down to BC at 4:30 pm. Kraus at least would have reached summit otherwise. These 3 men went to Island Peak via Amphu Laptsa and arrived Island Peak BC 25th Oct.


expid: MAKA95302
peakid: MAKA
year: 1995
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Eltjo Reint Jon (Reiner) Zuidhoff
sponsor: Dutch Makalu Expedition
bcdate: 1995-09-08
smtdate: 1995-09-26
termdate: 1995-10-11
termnote: Abandoned at 6850m due to unsafe snow conditions & deep snow
campsites: LowBC(08/09,4850m),HighBC(10/09,5250m),C1(15/09,5900m),C2(25/09,6700m),xxx(26/09,6850m)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  BC at usual site near junctions of glacier
  C1 at south end of rock island of Chago Glacier
  High point at upper part in Chago Glacier directly below Makalu La.

  Wanted to follow Kukuczka route, but too dangerous from rock fall for non-alpine-style climb so on 12th Sept decided to follow French (normal) route. After C1 had fresh snowfall so back to BC. 21st started up & took time to find route through seracs & then snow conditions horrible. Made C2 but then again snow condition bad (2 hrs to gain 150m) & 28th Sept a big snowstorm with heavy snow & strong wind forming big snow slabs & saw snowslab avalanche tracks. Back to BC and on 11 Oct returned to C2 and found snow conditions not changed with deep snow over unsafe snow.


expid: EVER95305
peakid: EVER
year: 1995
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Jong-Ho
sponsor: 1995 Korean University Qomolangma Expedition
ascent1: 225
bcdate: 1995-09-02
smtdate: 1995-10-14
accidents: Park critical stomach perforation & appendicitis; Jo slight frostbite
agency: Windhorse Trekking
campsites:
  ChineseBC(02/09,6000m),C2.ABC(06/09,6500m),C3(21/09,7000m),C4(07/10,7900m),C5(08/10,8350m),Smt(14/10)

routememo:
  BC at road
  C3 at North Col
  C4 on North Ridge
  C5 just below North Ridge on North Face.

  C3 made only on 21st Sept after other Korean (NE Ridge) team had fatal accident & ceremony attended; Park had serious stomach problem which needed help. Now NE Ridge & [two Korean] teams climbing together. 1st summit bid on 9th by 2 members & 1 Sherpa, turned back at 2nd Step for lack of rope & ladder. 2nd attempt on 14th & successful. In descent Jo oxygen finished & very slow. Zangbu fell in descent & from 8800m (was ahead of Jo): slipped on small avalanche & fell 3000m down Great Couloir (body not recovered because not much left to find after 3000m fall, which was watched from N Col).

  Jo & Lee Seok-Bu made 1st attempt, Lee got frostbitten fingers & Lee & Kang left early.


expid: EVER95306
peakid: EVER
year: 1995
route1: NE Ridge (to 7700m)
route2: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Dong-Ho
sponsor: Korea Qomolangma NE Ridge Expedition
ascent2: 225
bcdate: 1995-09-02
smtdate: 1995-10-14
accidents: Avalanche 10 Sept also injured 2 Koreans and another Sherpa
agency: Windhorse Trekking
campsites:
  BC(02/09),C1(04/09,5700m),C2.ABC(05/09,6500m),C3(24/09,7100m),C3.NCol(04/10,7000m),C4(07/10,7900m),C5(08/10,8350m),Smt(14/10)

routememo:
  BC at road
  C3.1 at NE Ridge
  C3.2 at North Col.

  10th Sept going up face to make C3 but avalanche at 6900m hit 2 members, Ra & Park & 4 Sherpas & falling 700-800m; Park broke 2 ribs, Ra ankle injured & 2 Sherpas Ok, but Lhakpa Nuru buried in snow & died of suffocation despite artificial respiration. All members & Sherpas down to BC & body cremated at Rongbuk Gompa. 17th Sept up to C2 & but still dangerous avalanching on route so abandoned this time & went up ridge to main route to make C3 at 7100m on 24th Sept. Then followed main NE Ridge & reached only 7700m on 28th Sept; but strong wind & no support Sherpas & when tried to carry up more rope, etc., not enough strength to continue this route so 3 Oct descended & abandoned NE Ridge attempt. 

  From same ABC went to N Col. 9th Oct summit bid by 7 members & reached 8700m at bottom 2nd Step but stopped here because not enough rope & bottom of ladder missing & back to ABC.

  Next summit bid 12th Oct to C4 from ABC, 13th to C5 & 14th summit. In descent Han stopped for 5 hours at 2nd Step, waiting for University member whose oxygen stopped and helped University member down. Now climb finished.


expid: LHOT95302
peakid: LHOT
year: 1995
route1: W Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Felix Inurrategi
sponsor: Lhotse 1995 Basque Expedition
ascent1: 32nd,33rd
countries: S Korea
approach: Via Gokyo & Cho Oyu for 3 mbrs->direct normal trail for other
bcdate: 1995-09-19
smtdate: 1995-09-27
smttime: 1200
othersmts: Climbed Cho Oyu illegally (CHOY-953-13)
accidents: Um frostbite starting but not serious
achievment: 1st Spanish to top
agency: In Wilderness (Kunga)
campsites:
  TeamA(19/09,5350m),Biv1(24/09,6400m),Biv2(26/09,7600m),Smt(27/09);
  TeamB(20/09,5350m),Biv1(30/09,6400m),Biv2(01/10,7600m),Smt(02/10)

routememo:
  BC at bottom of Icefall
  Biv in Cwm
  Biv on West Face.

  Really 2 teams: 
    Team A: Alberto, Felix, Fernando & Onchu
    Team B: Juanito, Um, Juan & Kazi.

  Team (A) to C2 directly from BC 24th Sept; 26th to 200m above normal C3 of Everest at 7600m on Lhotse W Face without fixed rope. 27th to summit, arrived at 12:00 after 9 hrs climbing & slept in camp in Cwm (6400m); BC on 28th (Fernando to Cwm only & back to BC).

  26th Team (B) fixed 600m on face & down to BC. (B) left BC on 30th Sept to C2, 1st Oct to (A)'s camp at 7600m & 2nd to summit (Um & Kazi not to top: Um frostbite problem, Kazi not so strong).

  8 Oct - Kazi only to between Cwm Camp & face & down because not so strong & no space on face for 4 men in tent. 2nd Oct 3 members started up together but Um stopped briefly because toes getting cold; waited half-hour in sun, then up alone to top half - 3/4 hrs after 2 Spanish members.

  Inurrategi team on Cho Oyu had no problem about crossing border illegally at Nangpa La to climb without permit.


  Xavier Egueskitza - 6 May 96

  Basques say Um did not reach Lhotse summit - he was too tired. Claimed he summited because of fear of losing his sponsorship if he failed.


  Um - 23 Dec 96

  Um denies stoutly that he failed to reach summit.


  Inaki Ochoa - 28 Mar 2007

  Um Hong-Gil, Juan Vallejo and Juanito Oiarzabal were on the same rope together on Lhotse when approaching the summit. But Um turned back at about 8300m disconnecting himself from the rope, thus not summiting.


expid: EVER95301
peakid: EVER
year: 1995
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Atanu Chatterjee
sponsor: Indian Everest Expedition (N Col) 1995
bcdate: 1995-08-09
smtdate: 1995-10-09
termnote: Abandoned at 8750m due to part of ladder at 2nd step missing and lack of rope
campsites: BC(09/08),ABC(14/08,6400m),C3(18/08,7000m),C4(23/08,7900m),C5(07/10,8300m),xxx(09/10,8750m)
agency: Himalayan Journeys
routememo:
  BC at road - 1 camp before ABC: 5500m 
  C1 at North Col
  High point at top of 2nd Step.

  After camp made at col tents down-faced, food destroyed, avalanches took out fixed ropes 4 times. Too much snow. Spent total 60 days in ABC. 9th Oct made 3rd summit bid (first 2 failed to pitch C4 because of wind and snow - 28th Aug and 15th Sept tried). 3rd bid on 9th Oct from C5 and got to 8800m in good weather; 13 Koreans, Indians and Sherpas got to this point, found only 3-4 feet of ladder left where as 8-9 feet gone. Started from C5 midnight of 8th/9th, reached 8750m at top of 2nd Step and found ladder part gone so turned back. Tried to make ladder with 25m of rope at hand. Did not go out onto face because there too would have need more rope and would have go down to 8500m and then traverse and again up, so not enough rope to rope up 13 people. Returned to C5 11 am and climb finished. Chatterjee stopped extra night in C4 because spectacles broken; at this time, without oxygen got frostbitten fingers here alone.

  Will return to Everest again.
   
  Korean Park Young-Seok said on 21 Oct 1995: Chatterjee failed because not technically skilled, waited for Sherpa Ngati to do things for him.

accidents:
  Chatterjee & Ngati frostbite - may lose tip of 1 finger; Banerjee altitude sickness at BC & left; photographers also left


expid: EVER95304
peakid: EVER
year: 1995
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Dong-Yeon
sponsor: 1995 Posco Everest Expedition
bcdate: 1995-09-01
smtdate: 1995-10-09
termnote: Abandoned at 8750m due to lack of rope & all members tired
campsites: BC(01/09),ABC(06/09,6400m),C1(07/09,7000m),C2(16/09,7900m),C3(08/10,8300m),xxx(09/10,8750m)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C2 on North Ridge
  C3 on North Face close to North Ridge.

  9th Oct summit attack by Kwon and Mingma Tamang from C3 reached 8750m and stopped below 2nd Step because ran out of rope to fix and strong wind and down to ABC in 20 hours total ascent and descend that day. This last attempt; 1st two failed because of wind and avalanche: 1st try 21st Sept to 8500m and 2nd 26th Sept, 8500m also; too windy to pitch C3 because too strong wind so only bivouac. Now after 3rd attempt all members very tired from load carrying and summit attempts.

  Did not try Great Couloir because deep snow & avalanching.


expid: EVER95302
peakid: EVER
year: 1995
route1: N Face (Japanese & Hornbein Couloirs) (to 6600m)
route2: N Col-NE Ridge (to 8500m)
nation: Spain
leaders: Albert Castellet
sponsor: UPC Everest 1995 (UPC=Polytecnic University of Catalonia)
bcdate: 1995-08-12
smtdate: 1995-10-11
termnote: Abandoned at 8500m due strong winds and cold
agency: In Wilderness (Kunga)
campsites:
  BC(12/08),ABC(13/08,5550m),C1(01/09,6150m),Biv1(07/10,7000m),Biv2(08/10,7800m),Biv3(09/10,8200m),xxx(11/10,8500m)

routememo:
  Chinese BC at road
  ABC at normal ABC
  C1  at base of Japanese Couloir
  Biv at North Col
  High point at 1st Step.

  Spent all of Sept acclimatizing to N Col and south of Everest. On 4th Oct started attempt to climb face/couloirs, reached 6600m on 4th; then stopped and abandoned route because danger of windslab avalanching here so down to C1. 

  Then went to normal route. Made biv at N Col on 7th Oct. 8th to 7800m and biv. 9th 8200m. 10th stayed there resting (was lot of wind). 11th 2 members reached 1st step at 8500m but had to retreat in strong wind and very cold ("we were about to freeze") so back to 8200m that night. Climb now finished because cold and wind (Koreans summited on 14th but bad frostbite).

accidents:
  None on Everest itself; Xavier Lamas killed by avalanche on nearby Changzheng (6977m) while descending from summit during acclimatization climb


expid: PUMO95301
peakid: PUMO
year: 1995
route1: SE Ridge-E Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Ivan Foltyn
sponsor: Pumori 1995
bcdate: 1995-09-22
smtdate: 1995-10-06
termdate: 1995-10-08
termnote: Abandoned at 6576m due to no time to bring up more rope
campsites: BC(22/09,5280m),ABC(24/09,5700m),C1(04/10,6100m),xxx(06/10,6576m)
accidents: Betak serious pulmonary edema (taken to Lobuje for Gamov bag use, then Khunde)
agency: Everest Adventure
routememo:
  C2 not planned: intended to go to top from C1 and back to C1 but did not: ridge from Col would need 150m fixed rope and many crevasses, so turned back. Did not have time to go down and arrange for rope from other teams. Yaks were fixed for BC departure on 8 Oct.


expid: PUMO95303
peakid: PUMO
year: 1995
route1: SE Ridge/Face-E Col
nation: Italy
leaders: Oreste Forno
sponsor: Italian Pumori Expedition
ascent1: 100-102
bcdate: 1995-10-06
smtdate: 1995-10-14
termdate: 1995-10-21
campsites: BC(06/10,5300m),C1(07/10,5800m),C2(08/10,6200m),C3(13/10,6550m),Smt(14,16,19/10)
accidents: None
agency: In Wilderness (Kunga)
routememo:
  C1 aon ridge on SE Face
  C2 on SE Face at top of ridge
  C3 at col of East Ridge.

  On 13 Oct 2 Tamangs made C3 and went on to top next day. 16th 2 Italians to top from C2 4:00 am, 8:00 am on Col, top at 2:00 pm and back to C2 6:00 pm. 19th Faustinoni and Rinzi to top from C3 and back to C3. 

  2 men with artificial legs (Faustinelli and Mendeni) reached C3, which is at top of most technical part of ascent (Forno accompanied them).


expid: PUMO95305
peakid: PUMO
year: 1995
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Greece
leaders: Eleni Stamatakis
sponsor: Greek Pumori Expedition
bcdate: 1995-10-14
smtdate: 1995-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to leg problem
campsites: BC(14/10,5350m),ABC(18/10,5700m),C1(21/10,6200m),xxx(22/10,6300m)
accidents: Only uncontrolled shaking of leg
agency: Highland Expeditions
routememo:
  C1 at top of SE Ridge
  High point at SE Face.

  16th Oct made ABC & down to BC. 18th Oct back to ABC & slept there. 19th Oct to C1 & down to ABC. 21st slept in C1 & 22nd up to reach col & last camp site but after 100 meters Eleni unable to control right leg's shaking & Sherpas said must go down & down to BC same day & climb finished. Most difficult section was from ABC to C1, very steep & same of route not fixed by Czech (or anyone else). Heavy snowfall on 2 days.


expid: NUPE95301
peakid: NUPE
year: 1995
route1: Central Pillar of S Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Wolfgang Pohl
sponsor: DAV Training Expedition 1995 to Nuptse East I
bcdate: 1995-09-12
smtdate: 1995-10-25
termdate: 1995-10-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7050m due to wind and cold (lack of strength)
othersmts: Chhukung and Chhukung Ri first from BC
campsites: BC(12/09,5200m),Depot(5400m),C1(01/10,6050m),C2(14/10,6750m),xxx(25/10,7050m)
accidents: Jasper lung infection
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC at Lhotse Nuptse Glacier
  Depot not slept in - across glacier from BC
  C1 at snow cave on South Pillar.

  From depot at 5400m the climb began with (rock climbing at the start). C2 on top of diamond tower where and of difficulties & laid back snow fields began. Very serious climbing even with fixed rope above C1; overhanging, loose rock, some traverses on snow (ropes of French appeared out of snow as sun melted snow in Oct). In Sept snow deep & unconsolidated & sometimes broke through it up to chest; in Sept snowed every night. Fixed rope on entire route from depot to highest point. Had hoped to do alpine-style ascent from snowfield but winds very strong & had to crawl & 1 member's incorrectly fastened helmet & ice axe blew away. Also very cold. 25th 30 degrees in day light so feared frostbite. Winds started at at 10 Oct & monsoon snowfall ended only about same day. Difficulty of climb: grade UIAA 7+ or 8- free climbing & aid climbing A-3. Stone fall injured no one but and fall size of big cupboard. Completed climb of difficulties perhaps through highest 400m again difficult - up to 90 degrees steepness between C1 & C2 & numerous places 70 to 80 degrees.

  In interview with EAH after expedition, Wolfgang Pohl states that many expeditions from 1986 to 1994 actually climbed on the same route: S Spur to E Summit.


expid: PUMO95306
peakid: PUMO
year: 1995
route1: SE Ridge/Face-E Col
nation: UK
leaders: Richard Horsburgh
sponsor: British Pumori Expedition 1995
bcdate: 1995-10-20
smtdate: 1995-10-25
termdate: 1995-10-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to lack of strength
campsites: BC(20/10,5100m),C1(23/10,6000m),C2(25/10,6500m),xxx(25/10,6500m)
accidents: Scott cerebral edema & left
agency: In Wilderness
routememo:
  BC slightly lower than normal site (used 4-walled roofless structure)
  C1 at rock spur
  C2 just below Col on East Ridge.

  With no Sherpas carrying loads, members who remained exhausted. Hornsburgh worried about frostbite in sensitive fingers. Down to BC on 26th. Smith wanted to try for top but neither Hornsburg or Barker ready to join him although Barker went back up with him to C1 and then stopped. First time in Himalaya for all members. Next time will have Sherpas to share the loads.


expid: PUMO95304
peakid: PUMO
year: 1995
route1: SE Ridge/Face-E Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: William Crouse
sponsor: 1995 American Pumori Expedition
ascent1: 104
bcdate: 1995-10-13
smtdate: 1995-10-25
campsites: BC(13/10,5400m),C1(19/10,5850m),C2(24/10,6250m),Smt(25/10)
accidents: None
agency: In Wilderness (Kunga)
routememo:
  C2 at top of snow pillar (SE Ridge).

  Athans and 2 Sherpas first scaled Cho Oyu together and Sherpas wanted to climb Pumori, so as friends they were very welcome.


expid: PUMO95302
peakid: PUMO
year: 1995
route1: SE Ridge/Face-E Col-E Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Hans Rauner
sponsor: 1995 International Pumori Expedition
ascent1: 98th,99th
countries: Czech Republic, Germany
bcdate: 1995-09-27
smtdate: 1995-10-09
othersmts: Climbed Ama Dablam (AMAD-953-10)
campsites: BC(27/09,5300m),ABC.Depot(30/09,5700m),C1(02/10,6150m),Smt(09,12/10)
accidents: None
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  near lake
  ABC depot at bottom of face
  C1  at top of SE Ridge.

  12th Oct attempt by Schleypen and Salcman left C1 together, but Salcman did not feel well enough to go beyond col at 6500m and turned back alone while Schleypen went alone to summit. On 9th Durst went to only 6800m on East Ridge with Berlinger and Rauner because of difficulty of route (deep snow and no fixed rope); she waited 3 hrs there while 2 men went to top and all 3 descended together.


expid: AMAD95310
peakid: AMAD
year: 1995
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Hans Rauner
sponsor: 1995 Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 171,173,176
bcdate: 1995-10-18
smtdate: 1995-10-22
othersmts: Climbed Pumori (PUMO-953-02)
campsites: BC(18/10,4600m),C1(21/10,5800m),C2(6100m),Smt(22-23,31/10)
accidents: None
agency: Asian Trekking
primid: PUMO95302
routememo:
  BC at normal site which is large area
  C1 at start of ridge
  C2 at camp of Henry Todd's expedition.

  22nd Berlinger & Rauner left C1 for summit, but Berlinger not feeling well & stopped at Todd's C2 (6100m) & summited on 23rd. Habeler team member left C2 with Berlinger but Berlinger arrived at summit about an hour earlier. Menzo climbed alone from C1, summited & returned to BC same day, 31 Oct.


expid: AMAD95301
peakid: AMAD
year: 1995
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Joseba Elorrieta
sponsor: Basque Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 162
bcdate: 1995-09-23
smtdate: 1995-10-11
campsites: BC(23/09,4500m),C1(25/09,5300m),C2(05/10,5900m),C3(10/10,6300m),Smt(11/10)
accidents: None
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  After C1 pitched, raining/bad weather & stayed in BC. On way to C3 Joseba's backpack went down mountain so he had to go down. Summit day, clear & wind very cold & Artola turned back on 11th 100m below top because he very cold & very tired; no time for another attempt.


expid: AMAD95302
peakid: AMAD
year: 1995
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Hans Kammerlander
sponsor: Alpine School S Tirol Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 161,165 w/Maling
countries: Germany, Switzerland
bcdate: 1995-10-02
smtdate: 1995-10-10
smttime: 1100
campsites: BC(02/10,4900m),C1(05/10,5700m),C2(14/10,6300m),Smt(10,15/10)
accidents: Kafmann pulmonary edema but after 2 days at Thyangboche and up
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  9th Oct Kammerlander, Thomaseth and 2 Sherpas left C1 at 11 pm with lot of rope and fixed 800m rope during night in full moon. Sherpas turned back at 6300m where deposited C2 supplies, while 2 Italians went on to summit at 11 am and back to BC 3 pm of 10th. 


expid: AMAD95312
peakid: AMAD
year: 1995
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Rsyzard Pawlowski
sponsor: Patagonia Mountain Agency (PMA) Ama Dablam Expedition 1995
ascent1: 172,177
countries: Germany, USA
bcdate: 1995-10-20
smtdate: 1995-10-23
smttime: 1200
termdate: 1995-10-24
campsites: BC(20/10,4500m),C1(21/10,5800m),C2(31/10,6000m),C3(22/10,6300m),Smt(23,31/10)
accidents: None
agency: Himalayan Excursions
routememo:
  Schleypen & Pawlowski went to summit on 23rd (1st summiters of the day) from C3 9:00 am to top to BC 8:15 pm. 25th Keegan and Pawlowski to C1 but back to BC on 26th because she was still feeling effects of altitude, which had kept her at BC while the 2 men went up. 29th again up to C1; 30th to C3 and 31st to top and back to C2, where pitched tent from C3 and slept night at 6000m; down to BC 1 Nov. 

  Keegan had been on snow and ice only for 2 hours on an Alaskan glacier before this climb.


expid: AMAD95305
peakid: AMAD
year: 1995
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Aldo Verzaroli
sponsor: Swiss Ama Dablam-Pumori Expedition
ascent1: 164
bcdate: 1995-10-08
smtdate: 1995-10-13
termdate: 1995-10-16
othersmts: Climbed Pumori (PUMO-953-08) and Island Peak
campsites: BC(08/10,4580m),C1(11/10,5400m),C2(12/10,6050m),Smt(13/10)
accidents: Only Piezzi slight altitude problem
agency: Thamserku Trekking
primid: PUMO95308
routememo:
  C1 at slightly lower than 5800m of others: water here and too high.

  At C2 space for only 3-4 tents so pitched one tent & asked French if could use one of theirs & did.

  All members first climbed Island Peak & on top 7th Oct.


expid: AMAD95304
peakid: AMAD
year: 1995
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Alan Burgess
sponsor: American Ama Dablam 1995
ascent1: 168,175
countries: UK
bcdate: 1995-10-07
smtdate: 1995-10-19
termdate: 1995-10-24
campsites: BC(07/10,4400m),C1(11/10,5800m),C3(17/10,6400m),Smt(19,24/10)
accidents: None
achievment: Youngest summiter (15 years old)
agency: Highland Sherpa
routememo:
  BC at normal site (lower than some this autumn)
  C3 at normal C3.

  Never used C2; took people training to site of C2 at top of tower & first party tried for top from C1 to normal site of C2 & on 18th got within 150m of top but got very cold (had started at 5 am) & started to get white toes - they hadn't expected this cold weather (Kvale, Palmer & Smith); came down to C1 same day. Others 4 members went up to C3 on 18th & to top on 19th. 2 "Sherpas" left C3 an hour after members; came up because wanted to & meet members just below summit in descent; all down to BC; first trio left BC 22 Oct & on top 24th Oct; left C3 later (8:30 am) than in 1st attempt.

  First successful party down to C1 19th except Pfetzer & Spitzer, who stayed in C3 because 15-year-old Pfetzer was tired. 

  Burgess actually leader but went into Khumbu a week ahead of others to buy supplies & set up camp & met members in Namche. This planned in advance & made Spitzer leader so he could be in KTM for tourism briefing.

  Very impressive how smoothly teams mixed together, esp. Kammerlander, Dujmovits & H. Todd met with Burgess to work out what would be done by whom & "it was good to work with professionals" about correctly fixing ropes, e.g.

  Pfetzer (15 yrs) left expedition as soon as he finished his climb so he could get back to high school - his mother was at BC and he had his text books there too and send them - Pfetzer returned to KTM 27 Oct and said by phone 28 Oct: had left C3 at 9:30 am reached top at 12 noon - "it make great" although route in shade and very cold - plans to go to Everest again in spring '96 (with Henry Todd expedition).


expid: AMAD95311
peakid: AMAD
year: 1995
route1: NW Ridge from N
nation: Nepal
leaders: Pemba Tsering Sherpa
sponsor: American Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: USA
bcdate: 1995-10-18
smtdate: 1995-10-21
termdate: 1995-10-21
termnote: Abandoned at 5830m due to difficulty of route for mostly inexperienced climbers
campsites: BC(18/10,5270m),C1(20/10,5820m),xxx(21/10,5830m)
accidents: None on mountain but Stewart leg wounded by trail collapse near Chaunrikharka
agency: Dhaulagiri Trek House
routememo:
  BC just north of Tsure Glacier at west end of ridge
  C1 at NW Ridge (ridge forming north side of West Face)
  High point on NW Ridge.

  Route attempted started at west end of ridge; sugar snow and ridge "no place to put rock piton so we just turned down." Tried to go up but made no real progress. C1 pitched by 5 people & slept in by Wood & Pemba Sherpa (Ghat) on 20th & tried to go higher on 21st. 4 members trekked (with fixed line) to deposit at 18,000 ft on 20th enroute for 5 to C1. Stopped & turned back thinking route too difficult route. All down to Dingboche on 21st. 

  Wood strong climber, wanted to do alpine style climb from C1, but Pemba not experienced enough to do it and Wood accepted fact that he should not do it solo as no one could get up to help him if he got into trouble.


expid: CHAM84101
peakid: CHAM
year: 1984
route1: N Face-NE Ridge-E Smt
route2: N Face-NE Ridge-Central Smt
nation: UK
leaders: Doug Scott
sponsor: Makalu 1984
ascent1: 1st of E Smt
countries: France, Ireland, Switzerland, USA
bcdate: 1984-04-19
smtdate: 1984-05-16
termdate: 1984-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7290m due to snow and ice and far distance to main summit; East & Central Smt only
othersmts: Climbed Baruntse (BARU-841-02) and Shershon Northwest (SHNW-841-01), attempted Makalu (MAKA-841-03)
accidents: Hall hit on head by ice block causing concussion; Mooney was snowblinded
achievment: Reached East and Central Summits only
primid: MAKA84103
campsites:
  BC(19/04,4700m),Biv1(12/05,5600m),Biv2(14/05,6500m),Biv3(15/05,7200m),Biv4(16/05,6600m),E-Smt(16/05,7290m)

routememo:
  Scott's party and another (Hall, Brooks, Mooney, Sustad and 2 Sherpas) because separated. Hall, Brookes and Sustad reached 6900m when Hall hit by ice block and they had to turn back. 

  Did not go to main summit because it was too far away. Chamlang climb was primarily a warm up for Makalu.

  "Quite technical" below 3rd bivouac - snow and ice.


  Scott - 13 June 84

  5600m  1st camp (successful team)
  6500m  2nd camp
  7200m  3rd camp
  6600m  4th on way down

  Quite technical below 3rd camp. Scottish grade 2 & 3 snow and ice. Led by Michael Scott. 5-day round trip from BC at 16,000 ft to BC. Did not go to highest summit because too far away; did climb as warm up for Makalu.


  Brian Hall - 27 May 84

  Chamlang: After rest at BC back to ABC on 12 May; from ABC on 14 May; from ABC on 14 May up ice face to 6200m (face south of Chamlang Glacier) - North Face of East Summit point 7290m by 2 teams.

  1) Doug and M Scott, Afanassieff and Ang Phurba
  2) Brookes, Sustad, Mooney, Hall, Pasang and Saila

  15 May 2) went to 6700m (just west of point 6705m) and bivouacked while Jean to biv at about 7000m (east of pt 7290m)

  16 May 1) to pt 7290m = East Summit at 8:30 am intended to traverse to point Scott and Messner reached in 1981 but Scott mistook which col for descent and went down a north face which took them to night of 17th to get off of. Extremely difficult descent and Ang Phurba did very well in such an alpine climb; as difficult as descending North Face of Eiger Doug and Jean reported. In dark of 17th returned to ABC.

  2) Mooney developed snowblindness during night of 15/16 May; May 16th am was completely blind and in great pain. 2 Sherpas did not want to go on. Hall, Brookes and Sustad set off for East Summit intending not to traverse but return way they came. They reached steep part of ridge between 6800-7000m with Sustad in lead when he knocked block of ice off which hit Hall on head and knocked him out for few seconds. Hall didn't feel well and decided to go down. Sustad and Brookes helped him to biv where Mooney and Sherpas were. Then Mooney, Hall and 2 Sherpas were lowered down face on ropes to 6200m. 17 May Hall better. Mooney lowered while Hall escorted Sherpas down - got to ABC finally.

  18 May all to BC. Hall, Bruce and Higgins left BC 20 May.

  3 Sherpa listed on permit as members since Chamlang requires joint expeditions until first success.


expid: BARU84102
peakid: BARU
year: 1984
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Doug Scott
sponsor: Makalu 1984
ascent1: 14th
countries: France, Ireland, Switzerland, USA
bcdate: 1984-04-19
smtdate: 1984-05-04
termdate: 1984-05-31
othersmts: Climbed Chamlang (CHAM-841-01) and Shershon Northwest (SHNW-841-01); attempted Makalu (MAKA-841-03)
campsites: BC(19/04,4700m),C1(5400m),C2(01/05,5600m),C3(02/05,6100m),C4(03/05,6700m),Smt(04/05)
accidents: None
primid: MAKA84103
routememo:
  Scott article:

  BC(19/04,4700m),C1(5400m),C2(01/05,5600m),C3(02/05,6100m),C4(03/05,6700m),
    Smt(04/05) 


  EAH Notes:

  BC(19/04,4700m),ABC(03/05,5600m),Biv1(04/05,6135m),Biv2(05/05,6666m),Smt(06/05) 

  From summit returned to bivouac at 6666m for that night and on 7th returned to BC at 4700m.


  Brian Hall - 27 May 84

  Baruntse original SE Ridge route. Walk up until last day and done in alpine style - camp and dump at 18,500 ft as ABC for both Baruntse and Chamlang Glacier meet (on true left bank). To West Col (6135) and from there north-northwest to about 6600m (very near to point 6730m) and thence up SE Ridge.


  Letter from Jan - 30th April 84

  BC established on 19th April. Brian Hall, Colin Brookes, Stephen Sustad and Terry Mooney went up to higher camp where Basque/American camps are for further acclimatization on 22nd April. Richard Chaplin, Michael Scott, Ariane Giobellina, Jim Fullalove, Molly Higgins and Larry Bruce went to camp opposite our BC on 23 April, climbing up to Col (20,300 ft). Next day when joined by Jean Afanassieff and Doug Scott. All climbers back in BC by 27th April, all having been up to 20,000 and slept high. Rest day 28th April. Celebration of Doug and Jan's 22nd wedding annivarsary. 29th April loads carried to 1st camp enroute to Baruntse via Chamlang Glacier. 30th April all climbers left to walk to Baruntse as part of acclimatizing for Makalu and also because its a nice mountain to climb.

  Ang Phurba, Ang Pasang Sherpa and Saila Tamang also attempting Baruntse in preparation for Chamlang.


expid: LSHR84102
peakid: LSHR
year: 1984
route1: S Face-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Antoni Sors Ferrer
sponsor: Catalan Mataro Lhotse Shar Expedition 1984
bcdate: 1984-04-20
smtdate: 1984-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7350m due to lack of food, supplies and fuel, route too difficult
campsites: BC(20/04,5250m),C1(24/04,5800m),C2(01/05,6250m),C3(18/05,6650m),C4(19/05,6850m),xxx(20/05,7350m)
accidents: Nothing serious
routememo:
  BC at Lhotse Shar Glacier east of Island Peak.

  Antoni needs one week more to go above 7350m and running out of food and fuel. Had chosen more difficult Austrian and Japanese route rather than easier Swiss route and had just reached SE Ridge where Swiss Route joined their route and finished difficult part of climb.

  Difficult part between BC and C3, especially C2 to C3 where very steep ice and rock (little snow).


expid: MAKA84103
peakid: MAKA
year: 1984
route1: SE Ridge (to 8370m)
route2: NW Ridge (to 7400m)
nation: UK
leaders: Doug Scott
sponsor: Makalu 1984
countries: France, Ireland, Switzerland, USA
bcdate: 1984-04-19
smtdate: 1984-05-29
termdate: 1984-05-31
othersmts: Climbed Chamlang (CHAM-841-01), Baruntse (BARU-841-02) and Shershon Northwest (SHNW-841-01)
accidents: None
campsites:
  BC(19/04),Biv1(23/05,6100m),Biv2(24/05,6700m),Biv3(25/05,7200m),Biv4(26/05,7900m,Biv5(27/05,8150m),Biv6(28/05,8350m),xxx(29/05,8370m)

routememo:
  Doug Scott, Afanassieff and Sustad attempted to traverse Makalu, up SE Ridge and down NW Ridge (normal) route. Mooney, Fullalove, M. Scott and Brookes attempted NW Ridge route.

  Trio turned back short of summit and descended via ascent route because of bad snow conditions and fatigue which led Afanassieff to panic and retreat via route he knew.
   
  While trio made southeast push, four other men went for northwest side. Mooney and Michael Scott reached 7400m (Makalu La) on 27 May then went down next day because of Mooney's eye problem.

  Avalanche hit Sustad at bottom of East Face at 8000m on 29 May but no real injury to him. Mooney suffered painful pressure on one at 7400m on Makalu, 3 on earlier climbs.

  Sickness (hepatitis) took Giobellina; concussion on Chamlang caused Hall to leave; Chaplin came only for Baruntse climb; Bruce and Higgins had important family event back home to attend.


  Doug Scott - 13 June 84

  Climbed Makalu SE Ridge and then to left of Korean route on East Face - suffered from same bad snow.

  Bivouac sites:
  7200m "on mushroom"
  7900m in Eastern Cwm just below on summit
  8150m on headwall = East Face 8350m and 50m above that night to 8400m 
  9 days BC to BC.

  Turned back because Jean didn't think it safe for him to go on. Fatigue and couldn't let him go back alone on descent. Sustad got avalanched at bottom East Face at about 8000m on 29th.

  3 days without fuel gas, so no fluids except snow in water bottles.
  6 miles - 1st integral traverse of SE Ridge down into Eastern Cwm and up East Face; Cwm full of bad snow.
  3 nights above 7900m which is a lot.
  Sustad: "never been so exhausted in my life." 
  Scott: getting out of East Cwm most strenuous thing I've ever done in my life, extra bit you have to pull out cause from stomach the horror, tend to just want to go to sleep and forget it."

  No Sherpas went above BC for Makalu, but 3 beyond BC earlier climbs.

  Complete traverse would have been preferable to what we did. Would have been easier to go lower 40-degree slopes walk down to Makalu La than back down into East Cwm. Most impossible thing we could have done was what we did - down avalanche-prone head wall. If hadn't been for Jean's "demise," would have continued on to do traverse. Jean said last night he panicked at 8400m and if going again would go on up. This is why so few traverses are done - going into the unknown on other side is frightening.

  Jean also bothered perhaps more than Scott and Sustad by body sitting at 8350m where they camped. Rather "off putting" - presumably is 1976 Czech's Schubert.


  Mooney - 13 June 84

  Mooney went to Makalu La in 3 days with Michael Scott - too fast perhaps. Next morning had eye trouble with pain and pressure form behind eye so went down. Would have stayed one day at La for rest and then tried for top. Michael becoming stronger than Mooney. They got to Col 27 May and down 28th.

  Slightly different route from Spanish 1984 spring route - more direct route by Mooney. Used no ropes at all. Camped route at 22,000 ft on 26th and then to original French route. Stopped on 26th at about 20,000 ft on glacier.


  Buhler - 9 June 84

  Scott, Afanassieff and Sustad reached high point on 29 May on SE Ridge at foot of a rock wall blocking route. Wall can be traversed around and above that 50 degree snow slopes, very soft snow. Schubert's body at foot of this rock wall. Scott team's high point about 27,500 ft (8400m). 3 bivs at and above 7900m. Descended southeast side.

  M Scott and Mooney got to Makalu got to Makalu La and turned back. Mooney had eye problem.


  Brian Hall - 27 May 84

  Makalu when left BC on 20th planned rest till 22nd and then go to mountain but Doug bad bronchitis and perhaps delayed - 2 teams again.
   
  1) Brooks, M Scott, Mooney and perhaps Sustad
  2) D. Scott, Afanassieff and perhaps Sustad

  1) northwest side, normal route, which Basques had just climbed with a Sherpa part way up with Brookes party.
  2) to southeast - original buttress plan dropped because too icy so would go to same route Scott tried before; possible if Scott's illness delay and then all to do alpine ascent of northwest [ridge].


