# exped

expid: ANN121101
peakid: ANN1
year: 2021
route1: N Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Chhang Dawa Sherpa
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks International Annapurna I Expedition 2021
countries: Brazil, Greece, Kosovo, Mexico, Poland, Romania, Russia, Taiwan, USA
approach: Both by trekking and by heli to BC
bcdate: 2021-03-23
smtdate: 2021-04-16
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2021-04-19
campsites: Smt(16/04)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Seven Summit Treks Annapurna expedition was a combination of several independent individuals. Seven Summits provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. Their accounts are given below:


  Uta Ibrahimi (Kosovo)

  Appr:  Trekked via Tatopani to BC
  Camps: BC(23/03,4200m),C1(04/04,5300m),C2(05/04,5600m),C3(12/04,6300m),
         C4(14/04,7200m),Smt(16/04)
  Left:  
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success at 13:00

  Summit team: Viridiana with Dendi Sherpa, Antonios with Dawa Sherpa, Ago (Lu Chung-Han) with Gesman Tamang, Badia and Mauricio with Pemba [Lakpa Temba?] Sherpa...and my Sherpa (Tashi) was sick so I climbed without him, just with the team.

  We started our summit push on 15 April and 500-600m below the summit we had to return since there was no rope to fix. It was around 4-5 in the morning when we started to go down after all night of climbing. Later that day, they brought rope with helicopter.

  The night of the summit it was snowing all the time till 23:30 and our tent was almost completely covered with snow; that's why I started a bit later (I was also climbing without a Sherpa so I wanted to climb after others would open the route.

  In the first part, maybe the first 300m the snow was deeper, and then higher up the conditions were better. After some time I caught the fixing team and other climbers which were on Mingma Gyalje's team and I climbed after them.

  When we started to climb the couloir, again the fixing team didn't have enough rope and all teams and climbers started to collect and give our own rope and ice screws. We reached the summit in good weather, but not so much visibility. Going down was fast. I ran out of O2 (I had 1 bottle) - kind of mis-organization.

  I stayed on summit maybe 20 minutes, since I wanted to make room for other climbers who were coming. I think others stayed for 1 hour.

  Oxygen: Ibrahimi used 1 bottle from C4 to summit and down part way.
  Hired:  Tashi Sherpa

  Injuries:
    Ago (Taiwan) he had just a little bit frostbite and I think on his fingers, 
      he was climbing without O2
    Jarek (Poland) he had frostbite on how 2 fingers (I am not sure what happen),
      they started without O2, but then they started to use it.
    Others: nothing in our team.


  Badia Bonilla (Mexico)
  Mauricio Lopez (Mexico)

  Appr:  Helicopter to BC
  Camps: BC(28/03,4700m),C1(31/03,5100m),C2(01/04,5500m),C3(11/04,6500m),
         C4(14/04,6985m),Smt(16/04)
  Left:  1
  Hired: Lakpa Temba Sherpa, 14/05/85, Makalu
  Term:  Success at 13:30

  First summit attempt on 15/04, but turned back due to lack of rope (rope then supplied by helicopter for summit attempt on the next day). Summit team of Bonilla, Lopez and Lakpa Temba Sherpa left C4 at 00:15 on 16/05, summited at 13:30 pm. Long way from C4 to summit. So much cold, may be -35 centigrade. Returned to C4 arriving at 6 pm.

  Oxygen: Used from C4 to summit to C4.
  Hired:  Lakpa Temba Sherpa, 14/05/85, Makalu


  Waldemar Kowalewski (Poland)
  Jaroslav Zdanowicz (Poland)

  Appr:  Trekked via Tatopani to BC
         (trekked in via a new and safer route from Tatopani)
  Camps: BC(243/03,4000m),C1(26/03,4500m),C2(28/03,5200m),C3(12/04,6400m),
         C4(14/04,7100m),Smt(16/04)
  Left:  18/04
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Success by both members at 13:00 pm.

  They wanted to try without supplemental oxygen initially. As a reserve, they each had 3 liters of oxygen with them which they eventually used.

  First summit push on 15/04. Couldn’t reach summit because ropes not fixed in French Couloir. Started at C4 at midnight and turned back at 7400m at 5 am. Later that day a helicopter dropped the missing ropes and some food for them at C4. A lot of snowfall in the afternoon.

  Second summit push started at 1 am on 16/04. It was cold and windy, they measured -40°C. Started from C4 without using oxygen. Because of the cold, they took their reserve oxygen at 7800m. They had to wait in the queue of climbers, which made it more difficult because of the cold. Sherpas went ahead to fix the remaining ropes, which made progress slow. On the summit at 1 pm. Stayed for maybe 30 minutes. Many people on summit, some almost fell off the mountain because too little space for so many people.

  Down to C3 at 10 pm. Next day to BC. On 18/04 Jaroslaw took a heli from BC to Tatopani. Then Jeep to Pokhara, on 20/04 by plane to Kathmandu. Waldemar was involved in the heli search for the missing Russians on 18/04. He then flew to Pokhara by heli from BC on 20/04. He will attempt Dhaulagiri later this season.

  Jaroslaw frostbite (grade 3) on two of his fingers. No amputation, but lasting damage expected.

  Oxygen: taken and used from 7800m to summit to just before C4.


  Adrian Laza (Romania)

  Appr:  Trekked via Marpha, Yak Kharka to Tukuche BC; then by heli to Annapurna BC
  Camps: BC(14/04,2200m),C2(14/04,5700m),C4(15/04,6900m),Smt(16/04)
  Left:  18/04
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success at 13:00

  Prior to arriving at Annapurna BC, Laza went to Tukuche to acclimatize and reached 6850mm. Then left by heli for Annapurna BC, arriving on 14/04, then quickly ascended to C4 on 15/05. Summited at 13:30 pm, stayed 15-20 minutes, then descended to C4 arriving at 19:30 pm. Good weather.

  Dawa Sherpa abandoned at 7500m (5:00am) because his oxygen regulator failed.

  Oxygen: Used from C4 to summit and down.
  Hired:  Dawa Sherpa, Nurbugaon


  Lu Chung-Han (Taiwan)

  Appr:  Helicopter to BC
  Camps: BC(24/03,4000m),C1(29/04,5100m),C2(05/04,5500m),C3(11/04,6400m),
         C4(13/04,6800m),Smt(16/04)
  Left:  17/04
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success at 14:30

  First summit push on 14/04, but not enough ropes fixed. Reached 7000m and back to C4. Started for second summit push at 10:30 pm on 15/04.

  Summit on 16/04 at 2:30 pm. On summit for maybe 30 minutes. Cloudy weather, many people on summit. Back to C4 at 7 pm. On 17/04 got frostbite on toes and fingers (grade 2). Helicopter from C4 to BC and on to hospital in Kathmandu.

  Oxygen: Carried for emergency, not used (both member and hired)
  Hired:  Gesman Tamang (stayed to participate in the rescue of Russians).


  Dmitri Sinev (Russia)
  Alexandr Lutokhin (Russia)
  Sergei Kondrashkin (Russia)

  Appr:  By heli from Tatopani to BC
  Camps: BC(02/04,4000m),C1(04/04,5100m),C2(05/04,5500m),C3(14/04,6400m),
         C4(15/04,7300m),Smt(16/04)
  Left:  19/04
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Success by Sinev (15:00 pm) and Kondrashkin (13:30 pm)

  They had their C4 higher than normal C4, at 7300m. They didn’t climb together, but everyone in his own pace and time. All three started for summit push at C4 at 6 am on 16/04. Sergei reached summit at about 1:30 pm, together with Sadetskiy and Sykaris from other teams. Dmitri on the summit at around 3 pm.

  Sergei back at C4 at 5 pm. Dmitri back at C4 at 10 pm. Alexandr on his way up from C4 got frostbite on fingers and didn’t reach the summit. He turned back to C4. Wasn’t acclimatized enough.

  All three spent horrible night at C4, their tent was torn. Next morning down to normal C4 at 6800m. Sergei went first and got there in 1 hour. Dmitri got there after 5 hours, Alexandr after 9 hours. Sergei prepared an old tent he found there because they had left their broken tent behind. Alexandr was in bad condition, badly frostbitten. Their walkie-talkie was out of battery so they couldn’t call for help. Next day Sergei couldn’t find the fixed ropes down, they were buried in deep snow. In the night, they put a headlamp on their tent, with flashing light, hoping for someone below to see it and send help. Waldemar Kowalewski at Crampon Point spotted the flashing light. Next morning on 19/04 heli came and rescued them, one by one on long-line to BC. From BC to hospital in Kathmandu on the same day. Sergei has a pulmonary infection and bad cough. Dmitri slight frostbite on fingers, not serious. Alexandr severe frostbite on fingers, necessary amputation.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


  Antonios Sykaris (Greece)

  Appr:  Trekked via Tatopani to BC
  Camps: BC(24/03,4190m),ABC(27/03,4450m),C1(28/03,5000m),C2(04/04,5500m),
         C3(12/04,6400m),C4(14/04,6890m),Smt(16/04)
  Left:  19/04
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success at 13:33 pm

  Summit attempt on 15/04, got to 7400m when team ran out of rope. Next day attempt, left C4 at 12:00 am, summited at 13:33, stayed 30 minutes, then descended to C4. Good weather, but extremely cold (-36C).

  Oxygen: Used from 7500m until 8090m after summit finish.

  Hired:  Dawa Sherpa (Italian Dawa)


expid: ANN121102
peakid: ANN1
year: 2021
route1: N Face
nation: India
leaders: Umesh Zirpe
sponsor: Giripremi's Annapurna I Expedition 2021
countries: Nepal
approach: Heli from Dana to BC
bcdate: 2021-04-02
smtdate: 2021-04-16
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2021-04-18
campsites: BC(02/04,4200m),C1(05/04,5200m),C2(06/04,5600m),C3(14/04,6400m),C4(15/04,6986m),Smt(16/04)
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  Team arrived in Kathmandu on 14/03. They quarantined for seven days at the Manaslu Hotel and flew to Pokhara and Jomsom on 23/04 and 24/04, respectively. They walked to Muktinath and then drove to Dana. On 02/04 they flew to BC from Dana.

  BC  02/04  4200m
  C1  05/04  5200m
  C2  06/04  5600m
  C3  14/04  6400m
  C4  15/04  6986m
  Smt 16/04  by Harshe, Gavare, Mandale, Dawa Ongju Sherpa, Mingmar Tindu Sherpa,
             Pasang Tenji Sherpa between 1:30 and 2 pm.
  Smt 16/04  by Sheetal and Pasang Sherpa at 2 pm.

  Summit team left C4 at midnight like most other teams. The route was busy, and the snow was deep as it had snowed between 8 pm and 11 pm. They stayed about 15 mins on the summit, then descended to C4 where they arrived at 6:30 pm. On 17/04 everyone back at BC.

  On the descent from the summit, the team bumped into Maya Sherpa Coster in the couloir at about 7900m whose Sherpa (who was also called Mingmar was feeling sick). Mingmar Tindu Sherpa accompanied Maya and Mingmar again to the summit.

  Gear drop (Zirpe’s opinion):

  Gear was dropped at C4 on 15/04 by one helicopter. Ropes, fixing equipment, some oxygen bottles and food and gas were lowered to C4 by long-line. “But if the helicopter had not come, a lot of people would have gotten into trouble. Mountaineering has changed and we have to adapt.”

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 by all members and Sherpas.

  Left BC by helicopter to Dana.

  Sheetal Raj, Yogendar Garbiyal and Maya Sherpa were not Zirpe's clients, but climbed with Peak Promotion.

  Umesh Zirpe and his team were going to climb Lhotse. They arrived at BC on 27 April but when it became clear how many climbers were already infected with COVID-19 and how many had been evacuated, Zirpe and Mandale decided to leave BC on 02/05 and to go back to India on 04/05.

  Jitendra Gaware and Dinesh Kotkar decided to stay and continue their expedition to Everest and Lhotse.


expid: ANN121103
peakid: ANN1
year: 2021
route1: N Face
nation: USA
leaders: Chris Warner
sponsor: Expedition Base Annapurna I Expedition 2021
countries: New Zealand
approach: By Heli from Kathmandu to Dana to BC
bcdate: 2021-04-04
smtdate: 2021-04-16
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2021-04-20
campsites: BC(04/04,4200m),C1(07/04,5080m),C2(09/04,5560m),C3(14/04,6413m),C4(15/04,6986m),Smt(16/04)
agency: Expedition Base (Peak Promotion pmt)
routememo:
  Report by Stephen Hart:

  BC  04/04  4200m
  C1  07/04  5080m
  C2  09/04  5560m
  C3  14/04  6413m
  C4  15/04  6986m
  Smt 16/04  by Metcalfe, Warner, Chhiring Sherpa, Pasang Sherpa 2 pm.

  Hart and Pasang Sherpa and Metcalfe and her Pasang Sherp left C4 at midnight. Warner and Chhiring left from C3 also at midnight. There were about 15cm of unconsolidated powder snow. Sherpas broke trail. They were following the rope fixing team. Warner and Chhiring caught up with the team just below the summit. They summited together apart from Hart and Pasang (see below) and stayed for about 20 minutes on the summit. Warner and Chhiring descended to C3 where they arrived at 7 pm, Metclafe and Pasang descended to C4 where they arrived at 8 pm.

  Hart and Pasang Sherpa turned back at around 7000m at 2 am. Hart was too cold as he was only on one litre of oxygen and turned back.

  On 17/04 everyone was down at BC.

  Gear drop

  Gear was dropped at C4 on 15/04 by one helicopter. Ropes, fixing equipment, some oxygen bottles and food and gas were lowered to C4 by long-line. 

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to high point to C3 by Hart and from C4 to high point to C4 by his Pasang; C4 to summit to C4 by Metcalfe, Warner, Chhiring and Pasang.

  Left BC: 20/04 by helicopter to Pokhara by Warner and Metcalfe, and to 				Dana and then to Kathmandu by Hart.


  Notes by Tracee Matcalfe:


expid: ANN121104
peakid: ANN1
year: 2021
route1: N Face
nation: India
leaders: Kakka Keval Hiren
sponsor: Satori Adventures Annapurna Expedition 2021
countries: Andorra, Azerbaijan, Nepal, Russia, S Korea, Spain
bcdate: 2021-04-02
smtdate: 2021-04-16
termdate: 2021-04-19
campsites: Smt(16/04)
agency: Satori Adventures
routememo:
  Report from Georgy Sadetskiy (client of ChaTours):

  BC(02/04,4000m),C1(04/04,5100m),C2(05/04,5500m),C3(13/04,6400m),C4(15/04,6800m),
    Smt(16/04)

  Sadetskiy and two Sherpas on summit at 1:30 pm. Back to C4. On 17/04 descended to BC from C4. Left BC by heli to Dana on 19/04.

  Oxygen: From C4 to summit to C4 by Sadetskiy and Sherpas.

  Hired:
    Pasang Tshering Sherpa
    Pemba Sherpa


  Report from Israfil Ashurli (client of ChaTours):

  BC(02/04,4100m),C1(04/04,5000m),C2(05/04,5500m),C3(12/04,6500m),xxx(14/04,6800m)

  According to personal acclimatization plan, Ashurli reached 6800m and returned to C3, and after one night went down to BC for rest. Then due to frostbite, he had to abandon the expedition to avoid future amputation of his fingers.

  Ashurli noted that there was high avalanche risk on the ridge between C2 and C3.

  Ashurli left BC on 19/04.


expid: ANN121105
peakid: ANN1
year: 2021
route1: N Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Mingma Gyalje Sherpa
sponsor: Imagine Nepal Annapurna I Expedition 2021
countries: Canada, China, Pakistan, USA
approach: Heli from Tatopani to BC
bcdate: 2021-03-23
smtdate: 2021-04-16
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2021-04-18
campsites: BC(23/03,4200m),C1(27/03,5008m),C2(30/03,5515m),C3(12/04,6413m),C4(13/04,6986m),Smt(16/04)
agency: Imagine Nepal (Satori Adventures pmt)
routememo:
     Sirbaz  Gina
  BC  23/03  02/04  4200m
  C1  27/03  04/04  5008m
  C2  30/03  05/04  5515m
  C3  12/04  14/04  6413m
  C4  13/04  15/04  6986m
  Smt 16/04  by all members listed below apart from Carriere at 1:30 pm.

  Sirbaz, Abdul and Dawa Yangjum ascended to C4 on 13/04 even though they knew that the summit push was not going to be on 14/04, but they wanted to acclimatize up there. The rest of the team spent 13/04 at C3 (apart from Rzucidlo who was a day late due to sickness – see below) and ascended to C4 on 14/04. On 15/04 the whole team (apart from Rzucidlo) left C4 at 12:30 am and reached 7440m. The Sherpa team of about 10 people were fixing the ropes ahead of them. When they reached the high point at 5 am, the team had run out of rope and everyone descended to C4 again, which they reached at about 5:45 am.

  Team left C4 together with the rope-fixing team at 11:30 pm on 15/04. The snow was deep as it had been snowing the whole night until 11 pm. Conditions were actually good as Sherpas had broken the trail, especially Mingma Tenji of SST. They spent about 20 minutes and descended to C4 where they arrived at about 6 pm. According to Rzucidlo, it was a bit chaotic on the summit as the line was very tight and there were too many people. The whole team descended to C4 after the summit and to BC on 17/04.

  Gear was dropped at C4 on 15/04 by one helicopter. Ropes, fixing equipment, some oxygen bottles and food and gas were lowered to C4 by long-line.

  Avalanche on 27/04: There were two avalanches while the Sirbaz and Joshi were on the way to C1. They did not get caught, but were in the spin drift of the second avalanche.

  Rzucidlo’s health issues: After the first rotation, Rzucidlo came back to BC and fell sick with diarrhea. She took a helicopter to Pokhara on 07/04, where she stayed in a hotel for two nights and flew back to BC on 09/04. On 10/04, Rzucidlo still felt sick while the rest of the group started their summit push from BC. On 11/04, she took another helicopter to Pokhara and went to hospital there. She was put on a drip for the night and flew back to BC on 12/04. the other members of the team were at C3 on 12/04. On 13/04 she ascended from BC to C2 and on 14/04 to C3. On 15/04 she met her other teammates at C4.

  Dean Carriere reached 5700m (the wall above C2) on 06/04. When he came down to BC he felt very unwell and was unable to walk properly. He flew to Pokhara on 08/04 and to Kathmandu on 09/04 where he spent two nights at HAMS hospital. He left Nepal on 11/04. Back in Canada he was diagnosed with Guillain-Barré syndrome (GBS) syndrome which is likely to have been brought on by the COVID-19 AstraZeneca vaccination.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 by Gina, Khan from 7900m to summit to 7800m and Joshi from 7800m to 8000m. Dawa Yangjum and Mingma Gyalje did NOT use oxygen.

  Left BC on 18/04 by helicopter to Pokhara.


expid: ANN121106
peakid: ANN1
year: 2021
route1: N Face
nation: India
leaders: Bhagwan Chawale
sponsor: Pioneer Adventure Annapurna I Expedition 2021
countries: China, Nepal
approach: By heli from Dana to BC
bcdate: 2021-03-28
smtdate: 2021-04-16
smttime: 1320
termdate: 2021-04-18
campsites: BC(28/03,4200m),C1(02/04.5200m),C2(03/04,5600m),C3(13/04,6400m),C4(15/04,6986m),Smt(16/04)
achievment: Mohite first Indian woman to summit Annapurna
agency: Pioneer Adventure (Satori Adventures pmt)
routememo:
  BC  28/03  4200m
  C1  02/04  5200m
  C2  03/04  5600m
  C3  13/04  6400m
  C4  14/04  6986m
  Smt 16/04  by Mohite and Mingma Dorchi (1:20 pm), Chawale and Pema Tshering
             at 1:30 pm, Hu and Sanu at 2 pm.

  Team took part in the first summit push on 15/04, but rope ran out at about 7400m and they turned back to C4 at 5:30 am, and arrived at C4 at 9:30 am and stayed there the whole day. On 16/04 they left C4 at 12:30 am. Many people on the route and deep snow. They spent about half hour on summit and descended to C4, rested for a bit and continued to C2 where they arrived at 9 pm.

  On 17/04 team at BC.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 by all members and Sherpas.


expid: ANN121107
peakid: ANN1
year: 2021
route1: N Face
nation: France
leaders: Marc Batard
sponsor: Marc Batard Annapurna I Expedition 2021
countries: Brazil, Nepal
approach: Trekking from Tatopani to BC
bcdate: 2021-04-03
smtdate: 2021-04-16
termdate: 2021-04-18
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to dangerous conditions
campsites: BC(03/04,4100m),C1(07/04,5000m),C2(08/04,5500m),C3(15/04,6500m),xxx(16/04,7400m)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  Pasang Nuru climbed with the team as a full member, not as a hired Sherpa.

  Yorick and Bertrand formed a climbing team; Marc and Pasang another. Alpine style attempt, no hired, no supplemental oxygen.

  Marc and Pasang Nuru reached highpoint on 09/04. They slept in a snowcave at 5700m. They realized conditions were too dangerous and didn’t want to cross the dangerous ‘Guillotine Gully’.

  Yorick started summit push from C3 on 16/04 at 1 am, reached highpoint at around 7400m at 6:30 am. He was feeling tired and felt it was too hard to continue all alone. Not motivated enough, and decided to turn back.

  Bertrand had turned back before at 6300m because he fell sick with pulmonary infection.

  All down to BC on 16/04. Other people in BC said the weather would deteriorate and they didn’t have much time left. So decision was made to abandon climb.

  Whole team is very disillusioned and sad about the current development on 8000ers like Annapurna, with the crowds and increasing helicopter support above BC.

  Marc Batard, 5700m (HP)
  Yorick Vion, 7400m (HP)
  Bertrand Delapierre, 6300m (HP)
  Pasang Nuru Sherpa, 5700m (HP)


expid: BARU21102
peakid: BARU
year: 2021
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Gerhard Osterbauer
sponsor: Austrian Baruntse Expedition 2021
approach: Lukla->Pangom->Kothe->Tangnak->Khare->Kongmadingma->BC
bcdate: 2021-05-02
smtdate: 2021-05-04
termdate: 2021-05-10
termnote: Abandoned at 5759m due to two Sherpas being covid-positive
campsites: BC(02/05,5450m),xxx(04/05,5750m)
agency: Climbalaya (Seven Summit Treks pmt)
routememo:
  2 Sherpas were suspected to be Covid-positive, thus expedition abandoned.

  Weather was very unstable during the approach to the mountain. Just 3 days were perfect (09-11 May).


expid: BARU21104
peakid: BARU
year: 2021
route1: SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Philip Andrews
sponsor: Namas Adventure Mera-Baruntse Expedition
approach: Lukla->Mera Peak->Baruntse BC
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to covid contact with Austrian team
campsites: BC,xxx(6100m)
agency: Namas Adventure (Seven Summit Treks pmt)
routememo:
  From Namas Adventure Facebook:

  Baruntse Expedition 2021 had to be called OFF, because of COVID outbreak in the Baruntse base-camp.

  We summited MERA and the whole team was on a positive mood to Baruntse climb. 

  Our team reached Baruntse base camp, rested and ate well for 3 days, puja day and had our clear weather window day. All team made a push to camp 1, then the news broke out from the other team [from Austria] that their team had been in touch with a COVID positive person along the whole trails upto MERA PEAK. The guiding team had been getting symptoms, were feeling fatigue and weak by this point.

  The other climbing team called off their climb and we had to discuss about the potential risks before we made any decision. After contemplating with the decision for hours we chose to cancel Baruntse climb looking at all the risk if any of our member were to be sick at 6000M+ (since our guiding team had been in touch with the other teams guiding members) altitude then that would be total irresponsible and would put the whole team on life threatening situation.

  Thats the nature of expedition and current situation. The decisions goes against the plan more than we can think so. Now our team is all safe, healthy and resting in Namche Bazaar.


expid: BARU21105
peakid: BARU
year: 2021
route1: W Face
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Marek Holecek
sponsor: Czech Baruntse Expedition 2021
approach: Lukla->Namche->Gokyo to BC via Amphu Laptsa
bcdate: 2021-05-21
smtdate: 2021-05-25
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2021-05-30
campsites: BC(13/05,5600m),Biv1(21/05,5800m),Biv2(22/05,6200m),Biv3(23/05,6500m),Biv4(24/05,6900m),Smt(25/05)
agency: Green Horizon
routememo:
  BC  13/05  5600m (normal Baruntse BC)

  Climb started on 21/05. They had to wait for 8 days for good weather.

  Biv1  21/05  5800m
  Biv2  22/05  6200m
  Biv3  23/05  6500m
  Biv4  24/05  6900m
  Smt   25/05 by Holecek and Groh

  Bad weather started on 24/05 in evening. A lot of snowfall and wind. After summiting, they bivouacked for 2 nights at 7100m, nearby summit. No visibility on the summit. Next bivy at 7000m for 2 nights.

  On 29/05 the weather finally improved, and they managed to go down to 6000m. Descended on normal route. On 30/05 helicopter was able to pick them at their bivy at 6000m. Flight to Lukla and on to Kathmandu the same day.

  Crux on route: At 6900m for 150m M6+/80°. Horrible conditions in the whole face, a lot of mixed terrain.

  They named the route “Heaven Trap”

  Left BC on 30/05 from 6000m.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


  Holecek Media Report:

  Heavenly trap

  Hi, I am sending you the first more detailed information from our spring trip to the Himalayas. The goal of me and "Radar" (Radoslav Groh) was the western wall of the Baruntse (7129m), rising from the Hunku valley, in the Khumbu region. For several years, I had carried this idea in my head on beautiful wall with a new line, which showed great respect in my eyes. I revived the idea in 2019, when I saw Baruntse again in its full beauty. However, at that time there was another top on the list a little further in the same valley where we went with Zdenda Hácek, to climb a new path to the NW wall of Chamlang. But that single look was enough for me to say that I had to go back there, and so it happened this year. We arrived at the base camp under the Baruntse wall on 13 May. We were already well acclimatized from the previous trek, so we just waited for four consecutive days of good weather to appear so we could start climbing the west face.

  21th of May 

  We pack climbing material and food for six days and go to the glacier. We bivouac just below the entrance to the wall. 

  22th of May 

  We start climbing and immediately run into climbing problems from the first meters. There was hard ice in the lower parts, which often turned into mixed sections. This is because the western wall has undergone a major change in the last dry years. A lot of snow and ice disappeared from the slopes. For example, the ascent of the 1997 expedition of Sergey Efimov. This ascent led through a pillar of the western wall. Significantly to the left of our direction. In the current conditions, I can't imagine anyone repeating it.

  Due to the complexity of the terrain, our progress could not be accelerated. On the contrary, more and more difficult sections were added. With the rising day sun and temperature, stone projectiles began to fly around us, carrying death. After ten hours on the crampons, we have no choice but to dig an ice platform and survive the bivouac in a sitting position, suspended on a rope. Wrong place and about a hundred meters lower than we originally planned to climb.

  23th of May 

  The weather is good. We climb to the ice plate, which leads us diagonally to the left over the snow organ, to the rock sections. We hack ice axes in hard ice all day and climb from one groove, which is always bordered by a rib made of non-holding and loose snow. The process is slow and costs us a lot of energy. Before sunset we find a hole for a tent in one snow rib and we make a bivouac.

  24th of May 

  In the morning we find the most difficult passage of the ascent. Above our head we have a 250 meter barrier of broken rock. It takes us a while to decide where our steps will lead. The ascent began to slow down and the weather broke down. Finally, with all our might, we climb seventy meters below the ridge during a heavy snowfall. We have to camp there. Fortunately, we find a rocky outcrop, protruding above the valley, which is exactly large for our tent. We are building an airy bivouac and snow rivers are falling around us all night.

  25th of May

  The weather is bad, but there is no other way than to climb the ridge, then the top and go down the classic way. It's easy to say, but the falling snow, including the wind, and the last mix sections will take up all day again. We reach the top around 4 pm, completely frozen and we can't see the step due to the fog. We make a tent. At night, a hurricane came and completely covered our tent with new snow. The strong wind did not stop in the morning, bringing new torrents of snow. We tried a few tens of meters lower, but then we set up the tent again and climb into it. It was not possible to continue the descent.

  27-28th of May

  The weather is devilish and even ordinary basic tasks, such as boiling water or going to urinate, are on the limits of survival. We free the tent from the grip of the snow several times. We wait on the spot and pray. There is nothing more you can do. We already have everything wet, frozen and we are cold.

  29th of May 

  The weather improved a bit, the wind calmed down and at least a little was visible. We descend more than 1000m along a sharp ridge that leads into the valley. However, due to the amount of new snow and the risk of avalanches, the progress is slow. In the afternoon it is clear that today we will not be able to climb the glacier below the foot and another unpleasant bivouac awaits us.

  30th of May 

  It's a beautiful morning and the promise of a nice day. We immediately take advantage of the opportunity and call for helicopter via satellite phone. The reasons were clear, no one in BC was waiting for us. There was a lot of new snow on the slopes and in the valley, which was constantly falling down. Neither of us wanted to push ourselves with avalanches after those days. Fortunately, our call was heard and at 7 o'clock in the morning we were freed from the ice hell by a helicopter, which took us directly across the Himalayas to Lukla in 30 minutes. The End

  „Heavenly Trap“ we have called the new rute, which leads through the western wall of Baruntse 7129m. Difficulties of ascent are ABO + (M6 + / VI + / 80 °), found ascent meters 1800m (1300m elevation gain). The climbing partner is Radoslav Groh. The date of ascent is from 21.5 till 30.5. 2021. We agreed that we wanted to dedicate it to our two friends "Petr Machold and Kuba Vanek", who got lost in this wall eight years ago and no one has seen them since.

  I can say for myself that I have not yet done a harder climb in the mountains. I would like to thank my partner Radárek and the Almighty for their patience. It was thanks to these two that an mountaineering gem could be created.

  Greetings from Kathmandu,
  Maara


expid: DHA121101
peakid: DHA1
year: 2021
route1: NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Cory Richards
sponsor: Non-Covid-19 Dhaulagiri Expedition 2021
countries: Ecuador
approach: By heli to Japanese BC at 4000m
bcdate: 2021-04-04
smtdate: 2021-05-08
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to avalanche danger
campsites: BC(04/04,4200m),ABC(08/04,4700m),C1(11/04,5850m)),C2(16/04,6470m),C3(07/05,7300m),xxx(08/05,7800m)
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  Team orignally planned to attempt the NW Ridge, but when Cory Richards dropped out due to a lack of motivation to climb, Mena and Perez switched over to the standard route.

  Weather was good, but snow conditions were hard and bad. Mena and Perez opened trail from base camp to the highest point. Nobody else wanted join them.

  Mena reached 7800m, then turned back due to avalanche danger.

  Joyce was the camaraman and didn't have enough experience to climb in alpine style. He touched C2 on 06/06 and waited for the team in C1.


expid: DHA121102
peakid: DHA1
year: 2021
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Romania
leaders: Horia Colibasanu
sponsor: Dhaulagiri NW RIdge Post-Pandemic Expedition 2021
countries: Slovakia
approach: Heli to BC
bcdate: 2021-04-05
smtdate: 2021-05-09
termdate: 2021-05-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to avalanching
campsites: BC(05/04,4000m),C1(20/04,5000m),C2(26/04,5700m),C3(09/05,6700m),xxx
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  On 09/05, all three members reached C3. That night an avalanche destroyed their tent. They survived relatively unharmed, but decided to abandon the expedition.

  "It was a lot of work, a lot of steep sections, a lot of fixed rope to carry and fix. Heavy backpacks transported on overhanging, narrow chimney where backpack blocked, big snow and buried ropes. Working every second day to keep the schedule until you feel like employed to do this. Constant danger, depending on section, for avalanche, rock fall, falling or crevasse. Sweating all the time, because of effort or fear. When things got easier technically, they were hampered by altitude, with double weight in the backpack and one third the speed of ascent."


expid: DHA121103
peakid: DHA1
year: 2021
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Sophie Lavaud
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks International Women's Dhaulagiri Exped 2021
countries: Czech Republic, Japan, Kosovo, Mexico, Nepal, Norway
approach: Fly to Pokhara->Sibang->Dobhan->Italian BC->BC
bcdate: 2021-04-13
smtdate: 2021-04-19
termdate: 2021-05-07
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to covid outbreak amongst teams
campsites: BC(13/04,4700m),C1(18/04,5700m),C2(19/04,6400m),xxx
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Team abandoned expedition due to covid outbreak amoungst various members of the expedition teams at base camp.

  Lots of snow, but general conditions were good.


  Report from Vibeke Sefland:

  A lot of snow, snowstorm slowed us down, many avalanches in route, ropes snowed down after each rotation, deap snow, tents burried, some lost/had damaged equipment due to snowstorm.

  Unfortunately the Sherpas (90% of them) didnt want to put in the effort. They were affraid of covid and moral was low. We also don't know how avalanche hazard was above C3.


expid: DHA121104
peakid: DHA1
year: 2021
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Carlos Soria
sponsor: Carlos Soria Dhaulagiri Expedition 2021
approach: Jeep to Marpha, heli to BC
bcdate: 2021-04-17
smtdate: 2021-04-30
termdate: 2021-05-17
termnote: Abandoned due to covid outbreak amongst teams, bad weather and bad conditions
campsites: BC(17/04,4700m),C1(29/04,5000m),xxx(30/04,5600m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  It was a terrible season with very bad conditions, bad weather and so many problems about COVID in base camp.


expid: DHA121105
peakid: DHA1
year: 2021
route1: NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Sean James
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks International Dhaulagiri Exped 2021
bcdate: 2021-04-07
termdate: 2021-05-14
termnote: Abandoned due to covid outbreak amongst teams
agency: Seven Summit Treks
countries:
  Andorra, Brazil, Greece, India, Iran, Italy, Japan, Mexico, Poland, Romania, S Korea, Serbia, Spain, Taiwan, Turkey, USA

routememo:
  Seven Summit Treks Dhaulagiri expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Seven Summits provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Giorgio Masetti Zannini (Italy)

  Appr:  Heli from Takam to Italian BC, then trekked to BC
  Camps: BC(08/04,4750m),C1(16/04,5800m),xxx(17/04,6200m)
  Left:  02/05/21
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned due to covid outbreak at base camp.

  Masetti reached 6200m on 17/04, then turned back due to bad weather.

  Masetti had strong bronchitis and cough and thought that going down a few days was a good idea. Then the covid situation in Nepal was heavy and as he knew the gov't was about to close the skies, so took the first available flight to return. He had negative pcr in Katmandu, but was found positive at my arrival at home.

  Dhaulagiri was not in its best condition as weather was often bad and lot of snow was a serious obstacle. He was hit by a small avalanche and stonefall on his way from C1 to BC on 29/04.


  Adrian Laza (Romania)

  Appr:  From Tukuche BC via French Pass
  Camps: BC(05/01,4700m),C1(07/05),xxx
  Left:  09/05/21
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Abandoned due to covid outbreak at base camp.

  Arrived in base camp on May 1.
  May 4 Laza tested Nurbu Sherpa as positive for covid; he left base camp on May 6
    by heli. Laza got another sherpa (Dawa Sherpa).
  Laza and Dawa reached C1 on May 7. 
  Dawa Sherpa did not feel good (chest pain and short breath).
  Laza tested Dawa as positive for covid (he had about 30 covid tests with him and
    tested regularly the porters and Sherpas).
  Laza decided to abandon the expedition and returned to base camp on May 8.
  Left to KTM by heli on May 9.


  Jonaton Garcia (Spain)
  Stefi Troguet (Andorra)

  Appr:  Trekked to BC
  Camps: BC(07/04,4700m),C1(11/04,5850m),C2(19/04,6470m),xxx
  Left:  11/05/21
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned due to covid outbreak at base camp.


  Badia Bonilla (Mexico)
  Mauricio Lopez (Mexico)

  Appr:  By Heli from Annapurna BC
  Camps: BC(27/04,4700m),C1(01/05,5700m),xxx
  Left:  
  Hired: 
  Term:  Abandoned at due to covid outbreak at base camp.

  A lot of snow in all mountain. Some parts with avalanche danger (wind slabs). Weather...typical Dhaulagiri. Clear mormings, afternoon snow. Big snowfalls.


  Sean James (UK)

  Appr:  By Heli to BC
  Camps: BC(11/04,4600m),C1(14/04,5850m),C2(15/04,6500mm),xxx
  Left:  01/05 by heli
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned due to covid outbreak at base camp

  Expedition abandoned due to COVID-19 and little chance to reach the summit due to the chaos on the mountain. 

  Oxygen: Taken, but not used


  Tracee Metcalfe (USA)

  Appr:  By Heli
  Camps: BC(26/04,4620m),C1(08/05,5720m),C2(09/05,6400m),xxx
  Left:  14/05/21
  Hired: 
  Term:  Abandoned due to covid outbreak at base camp.

  The rope fixing team was having trouble coordinating, the weather deteriorated and COVID was spreading.


  Antonios Sykaris (Greece)

  Appr:  By Heli, West Face side
  Camps: BC(29/04,4470m),C1(06/05,5670m),xxx(07/05,5800m)
  Left:  
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned due to covid outbreak at base camp.


expid: DHA121106
peakid: DHA1
year: 2021
route1: NE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Bhagwan Chawale
sponsor: Pioneer Dhaulagiri Expedition 2021
approach: Pokhara->Beni->Takam->BC
bcdate: 2021-04-26
smtdate: 2021-05-08
termdate: 2021-05-11
termnote: Abandoned due to covid outbreak amongst teams
campsites: BC(26/04,4700m),C1(07/05,5700m),C2(08/05,6500m),xxx
agency: Pioneer Adventure (Seven Summit Treks pmt)
routememo:
  Route was not opened above C3, so all expedition canceled. All climbers abandoned this expedition.

  Weather was everyday snowy. But the main reason of failure of this expedition was COVID in our expedition. Almost 70% team got infected of COVID. So we faced lack of manpower to open the route. Also on 9 May there was heavy snowfall. So opened route again vanished.


expid: EVER21101
peakid: EVER
year: 2021
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Sherpa Rope-Fixing
sponsor: Sherpa Rope-Fixing Everest South 2021
smtdate: 2021-05-07
smttime: 1800
campsites: Smt(07/05)
routememo:
  A team of 12 Sherpas working for summited at 6:00 pm fixing ropes to the top:

    Kami Rita Sherpa
    Phurtenzi Sherpa
    Lakpa Nurbu Sherpa
    Ngima Tashi Sherpa
    Mingma Tenji Sherpa
    Fura Tshering Sherpa
    Tenjing Sherpa
    Chheten Dorjee Sherpa
    Tenjing Gyaljen Sherpa
    Phurba Chhotar Sherpa
    Mingma Dorchi Sherpa
    Furba Kusang Sherpa


expid: EVER21102
peakid: EVER
year: 2021
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Dawa Steven Sherpa
sponsor: Asian Trekking Eco-Everest Expedition 2021
countries: China, Colombia, Greece, India, Poland
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2021-04-11
smtdate: 2021-05-24
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2021-05-29
campsites: BC(11/04,5364m),C1(5950m),C2(20/04,6400m),C3(21/04,7000m),C4(10/05,7950m),Smt(24/05)
achievment: Zhang Hong became the 1st Asian (and world's 3rd) blind person to summit Everest
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Oxygen: Members and Sherpas started from C2, stopped on descent from C3


  Report from Zhang Hong team (Tao Chen):

  BC(11/04,5400m),C1(27/04,5900m),C2(28/04,6400m),C3(22/05,7200m),
     C4(23/05,7900m),Smt(24/05)

  Summit on 24/05 at 9 am Zhang Hong, Samden Bhote, Dawa Wongchu and Lakpa Sherpa.

  Summit team left C4 at 7 pm on 23/05, waited at 8500m for 20 mins due to strong winds (speed: 50km/h), then went ahead towards the summit (except for Wang Zen who started his descent due to the wind). Chen Tao and Ding Liang reached 8700m, gave 2 bottles of oxygen to Zhang Hong, then descended and arrived at C4 at 8 am and waited for Zhang Hong and his Sherpas to return. Also Chen's oxygen regulator leaked.

  Oxygen: From C2 to high point to C2.

  Hired: 
    Samden Bhote
    Dawa Wongchu
    Lakpa Sherpa
    Pemba [Tshering] Sherpa who fell into a crevasse and broke his ribs.


  Report from Mateo Isaza:

  BC(10/04,5250m),C1(28/04,6000m),C2(29/04,6500m),C3(10,22/05,7000m),xxx

  Isaza again reached C3, but was turned back by bad weather.

  Oxygen: Not used


  Report from Arjun Vajpai:

  BC(19/04,5350m),C1(28/04,6100m),C2(29/04,6440m),xxx

  Vajpai injured his back (while sleeping) at BC, but still went up to C2. However, the pain got worse and after five days at C2 he was in so much pain that he was picked up by helicopter and was flown to Kathmandu.

  Oxygen: Not used


expid: EVER21103
peakid: EVER
year: 2021
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Ishwar Singh Thapa
sponsor: NIM and JIM & WS Everest Expedition 2021
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2021-04-11
smtdate: 2021-06-01
smttime: 0620
termdate: 2021-06-03
campsites: BC(11/04,5364m),C1(19/04,5950m),C2(20/04,6400m),C3(21/04,7400m),C4(31/05,7925m),Smt(01/06)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  JIM & WS: Jawahar Institute of Mountaineering & Winter Sports, Pahalgam, J&K
  NIM:      Nehru Institute of Mountaineering, Uttarkashi, Uttarakhand

  Summit team went from C2 to C4 on 31 May, then left C4 at 8 pm that evening,
  summited between 6:20-7:20 am on 1 June, stayed 30 minutes, then descended to C2.

  Oxygen: From C2 to summit to C3.


expid: EVER21104
peakid: EVER
year: 2021
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Garrett Madison
sponsor: Madison Mountaineering Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2021
countries: Canada, Estonia, Iceland, Ireland, Norway
approach: Lukla->Namche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2021-04-13
smtdate: 2021-05-23
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2021-05-27
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-221-04)
campsites: BC(13/04,5350m),C1(24/04,6059m),C2(26/04,6490m),C3(19/04,7230m),C4(21/04,7950m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Summit bid schedule:

  15 May - BC to C2
  16 May - Rest day at C2
  17 May - Weather delay at C2
  18 May - Weather delay at C2
  19 May - C2 to C3
  20 May - Rest day at C3
  21 May - C3 to C4
  22 May - Rest day at C4
  23 May - Summit day, return to C4
  24 May - Descent to C2
  25 May - Descent to BC

  Success on Everest!

  Our team had a perfect summit day on the world's highest peak! During a tough season on Everest with a very low overall success rate, many teams canceled due to harsh weather, COVID-related issues, or other challenges. However, our team "threaded the needle" and was able to have a successful and safe expedition. Our first group of climbers reached the top of Everest and Lhotse on May 11th & 12th, then our main team reached the top on May 23rd, a calm day between 2 Cyclones, with some of our climbers also reaching the top of Lhotse the same day. Our youngest climber on the team was 25-year old Ben Veres, and our oldest was Arthur Muir, age 75! Art is now the oldest American (& oldest non-Asian) to reach the top of Everest. Kristin Harila from Norway reached the top of Everest at sunrise and the top of Lhotse later that day at sunset! All of our climbers are now safely off the mountain and home.

  Madison Mountaineering 2021 Everest Summits:

  May 11th: Kenton Cool, John Gupta, Rebecca Ferry, Dorji Gyaljen Sherpa,
  Chheten Dorji Sherpa, Lakpa Wongchu Sherpa, Tenjin Bhote

  May 23rd: Garrett Madison, Kevin Walsh, Ronan Murphy, Kristin Harila, Ben Veres, Arthur Muir, Krisli Melesk, Kristin Bennett, Helen Berenyi, Andrew Hughes, Terray Sylvester, Sidney Pattison, Mark Pattison, Robert Smith, Aang Phurba Sherpa, Temba Sherpa, Pasang Bhote, Dorchi Sherpa, Sangge Sherpa, Phurpu Ridar Bhote, Mingma Sherpa, Siddhi Bahadur Tamang, Pemba Chhiri Sherpa, Mingmar Sherpa, Pasdawa Sherpa, Ming Dorchi Sherpa, Kamdorji Sherpa, Phree Chhombi Sherpa, Dawa Bhote, Dawa Nupu Sherpa, Dawa Gelje Sherpa, Chhiring Bhote, Tenzi Sherpa, Lakpa Bhote

  Madison Mountaineering 2021 Lhotse Summits:

  May 12th: Kenton Cool, John Gupta, Rebecca Ferry, Dorji Gyaljen Sherpa, Chheten Dorji Sherpa, Lakpa Wongchu Sherpa, Tenjin Bhote

  May 23rd: Kristin Harila, Pasdawa Sherpa, Bibas Sherpa, Kami Rita Sherpa 

  May 24th: Terray Sylvester


expid: EVER21105
peakid: EVER
year: 2021
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Kenton Cool
sponsor: Kenton Cool Adventures Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2021
approach: Lukla->Namche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2021-04-17
smtdate: 2021-05-11
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2021-05-14
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-211-05)
campsites: BC(17/04,5350m),C1(21/04,6000m),C2(22/04,6400m),C3(09/05,7100m),C4(10/05,7950m),Smt(11/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Cool and Dorje Gyalzen Sherpa left C4 at 22:45 on 10 May, summited Everest at 6 am on 11 May, stayed 30 minutes, then descended to C4 arriving at 10 am. No wind, good conditions underfoot.

  Cool and Dorje Gyalzen Sherpa left C4 at 5:30 am on 11 May, summited Lhotse at 11 am on 12 May, stayed 15 minutes, ten descended tol C2. No wind, good conditions.

  Ardavan Farmanfarmanian reached 7000m on 24 April, then abandoned expedition due to ill health.

  Oxygen: From C3 to smt to 8000m.


expid: EVER21106
peakid: EVER
year: 2021
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Jon Gupta
sponsor: Jon Gupta Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2021
approach: Lukla->Namche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2021-04-15
smtdate: 2021-05-11
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2021-05-15
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-211-06)
campsites: BC(15/04,5350m),C1(19/04,6100m),C2(20/06,6500m),C3(09/05,7100m),C4(10/05,7950m),Smt(11/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Gupta, Ferry and two Sherpas left C4 at 22:45 on 10 May, summited Everest at 8:30 am on 11 May, stayed 45 minutes, then descended to C4 arriving at 1 pm. Good conditions, no clouds, light breeze.

  Gupta, Ferry and two Sherpas left C4 at 6 am 11 May, summited Lhotse at 1 pm, stayed 30 minutes, then descended to C2 at 6500m. A little windy in the couloir, but otherwise all normal. A bit cloudy/snowy/windy on descent.

  Oxygen:
     From C2 to smt to 7000m for members
     From C3 to smt to C3 for Sherpas

  Tim Mosedale summited both Everest and Lhotse with this team.


expid: EVER21107
peakid: EVER
year: 2021
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Roeland Van Oss
sponsor: Dutch-Finish Everest NoO2 Expedition 2021
countries: Finland
bcdate: 2021-04-08
smtdate: 2021-05-14
termdate: 2021-06-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6970m due to fatigue
othersmts: Climbed Imjatse
campsites: BC(08/04,5350m),C1(11/04,6100m),C2(11/05,6400m),xxx(14/05,6970m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  From expedition website (https://projecteverest21.com):

  28 May 2021

  We turned around. After five rotations through the Icefall and being sick for almost 10 days, my body was tired and empty, and I lost many kilos in the process. People asked me if it was difficult to turn around, but honestly it was not. It was sad and emotional, but the decision felt good. After climbing and guiding for more than 10 years, I know how I should feel like to even try a mountain like this. And I didn’t feel like that at all…which meant too much risk if we would have pushed on. So we packed our camps and all our gear, almost 35 kgs of it, and descended back to BC… that was it.

  We used no oxygen and we carried all are own gear up and down the mountain. We even carried our poo back to BC when there were no toilets and cleaned up the track of rubbish between BC and C2. And by doing it this way it made me proud; we stuck to our own beliefs, although it was sometimes difficult and hard. Many people didn’t seem to understand us on the mountain or why we wanted to do it our way, but that was not important. We knew what our climbing ethics and style were, stood by it and I feel we can now leave this mountain with our heads held up high.

  25 May 2021

  The trip through the Khumbu Icefall went smoothly, although you could see it was getting late in the season: crevasses were larger and snowbridges thinner. A lot of fresh, ice debris was evident everywhere and I was glad we only had one more passage through it to do.

  Camp 2 (C2) was relatively quiet and we could easily see where everyone was: the slow, ant line of people heading up toward camp 3 (C3) and South Col, aiming to catch the next window when the wind dropped. And it was blowing furiously higher up, it could not have been easy on the climbers to hang around there waiting for the break in wind.

  We continued our summit push toward C3 the next day, but it didn’t start well. Roeland was feeling weak and I was also not in my top strength, but we decided to continue toward the bergschrund. Perhaps we’d find our ‘oomph’ on the approach? Perhaps it was just morning slowness at altitude?

  Sadly, it wasn’t. As we continued Roeland got increasingly slower and I was wondering how I was going to manage to get the gear in my bag, and get myself to C3 and South Col — it felt so, so heavy. Roeland slowed down even more until we decided to stop for a break and then he admitted that he could not go on. His tank was empty and although I had not reached the same level yet, it was obvious that summit push wasn’t going any further uphill anyway. Our bodies just put a stop to it.

  As hard as we had tried to recover, after the illness, it seemed that we never quite got the full 100% strength back, which we’d had before, and it became evident when attempting to get higher.

  And as we stood below Lhotse face looking up at the windy C3 and beyond, it was obvious: to continue was unwise and unsafe. By pushing to C3 we’d enter a more difficult, demanding, and dangerous terrain, and for this you needed to be in top form, which at that point, we were not.

  The decision to turn around was not hard as such, because it was very black and white: your health comes first, always, but of course it was crushing, sad, and disappointing. We had poured so much time and effort into it, trained like crazy people for two consecutive seasons, and now we didn’t even get to test ourselves higher up! It felt hard, but it would have been even harder to justify continuing up like this.


expid: EVER21108
peakid: EVER
year: 2021
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Jonathan Schrock
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2021
countries: Canada, Finland, Japan, Nepal, S Africa, Sweden, Tanzania, UAE
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2021-04-09
smtdate: 2021-05-23
smttime: 0540
termdate: 2021-05-25
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-211-02)
campsites: BC(09/04,5340m),C1(12/04,6000m),C2(18/04,6550m),C3(05/05,7300m),C4(20/05,7927m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Beyul Adventure
routememo:
  From IMG webiste (https://www.mountainguides.com/wordpress/climb/everest):

  23 May 2021

  Our Everest and Lhotse Teams are now in either Camp 2 or the South Col. Some climbers elected to stay at the South Col to get additional rest before descending to Camp 2 in the morning. Other members elected to drop down to Camp 2 and will evaluate how they feel before making a plan for tomorrow to either continue down to EBC or take a rest day at Camp 2.

  23 May 2021

  We are proud to announce that our Everest and Lhotse Teams have summited today!  The weather was excellent and our climbers are now descending. IMG would like to congratulate all of our Everest and Lhotse climbers!. Of special note, todays summiters include a Father, Son and Daughter: Tenzing Dorjee Sherpa (Father), Sonam Tashi Sherpa (Son) and Pasang Kanchi Sherpa (Daughter).

  22 May 2021

  The Team made great time from Camp 3 to the South Col today. IMG Expedition Leader Jonathan Schrock reported that the entire Team made it into the South Col by noon and the Advanced Sherpa Team did a GREAT job having tents up and water ready so our team could eat, drink and rest before heading up tonight for the summit. The plan is for the team to depart the South Col by 9 pm. The weather reports calls for more decreasing winds and clear skies.


expid: EVER21109
peakid: EVER
year: 2021
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Mike Hamill
sponsor: Climbing the Seven Summits (CTSS) Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2021
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2021-04-15
smtdate: 2021-05-12
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2021-05-30
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-211-24)
campsites: BC(15/04,5350m),C1(22/04,6000m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(10/05,7100m),C4(11/05,7950m),Smt(12,23/05)
agency: TAGnepal Trekking
countries:
  Argentina, Australia, Canada, Croatia, Ecuador, India, Ireland, Italy, Mexico, Qatar, S Africa, Thailand, UK, Uruguay


expid: EVER21110
peakid: EVER
year: 2021
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Ben Jones
sponsor: Alpine Ascents Everest (AAI) Expedition 2021
bcdate: 2021-04-09
smtdate: 2021-05-24
termdate: 2021-05-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7950m due to weather and Sherpas tired
campsites: BC(09/04,5350m),C1(25/04,5950m),C2(29/04,6550m),C3(23/05,7130m),C4(24/05,7950m),xxx
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  Windy and snowy at the South Col [on 24 May].

  Oxygen: 
    Clients started using from C2, stopped using back at C2.
    Sherpas used from C4 to C2.

accidents:
  Bob Wood and Ang Nuru Sherpa injurd ice collapse in the icefall (both were rescued by helicopter, both had minor injuries).


expid: EVER21111
peakid: EVER
year: 2021
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Richard Sweitzer
sponsor: The Northwest Passage Everest Expedition 2021
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2021-04-22
smtdate: 2021-05-11
termdate: 2021-05-14
campsites: BC(22/04,5350m),C1(07/05,6065m),C2(08/05),C3(10/05),C4(11/05),Smt(11-12/05)
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  Summit team laft C4 at 10 pm on 11 May, summited at 4:40 am, stayed 30 minutes, then descended to C2 arriving at 1:30 pm. Great climbing conditions, first people on the summit morning of May 12.

  Oxygen: From C3 to summit to C3.

  Tenzing Gyalzen summited on 11 May with a group of Sherpas.


expid: EVER21112
peakid: EVER
year: 2021
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Alex Abramov
sponsor: Seven Summits Club Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2021
countries: Israel, Kyrgyz Republic, Uzbekistan
approach: Phakding (by heli)->Namche->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2021-04-23
smtdate: 2021-05-23
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2021-06-03
othersmts: Attempted Lhotse (LHOT-211-14)
campsites: BC(23/04,5350m),C1(28/04,6060m),C2(29/04,6400m),C3(04/05,7300m),C4(22/05,7950m),Smt(23/05,01/06)
accidents: Wong Dorchi Sherpa died on 23 May at South Col after summiting.
achievment: 1st Israeli woman summiter and 1st Kyrgyz summiter
agency: 7 Summits Adventure
primid: LHOT21114
routememo:
  BC  23/04  5350m
  C1  28/04  6000m
  C2  29/04  6400m
  C3  04/05  7300m
  C4  22/05  7950m
  Smt 23/05  Kubatov, Mikheev, Permilovskaya, Shulepov, Wolfson, Phu Dorchi, 
             Lakpa Ongjuk, Nima Dindu, Pemba Nurbu, Dawa Geljen, Wong Dorchi, 
             Ngima Thindu, Dawa Temba, Ming Nurbu and Nima Ungdi.
  Smt 01/06  by Rostovtsev, Kalabukhova, Lakpa Ongjuk, Ngima Dorchi, Nima Dindu
             and Ngima Thindu.

  First summit team:

  Kubatov, Mikheev, Permilovskaya, Shulepov, Wolfson and Livanov led by Abramov along with seven Sherpas started their summit push from BC on 16 May to C1. On 17 May they arrived C2. Due to bad weather they had to stay at C2 four days. On 21 May the team reached C3 and on 22 May to C4. On 22 May the team started from C4 at 11 pm with 14 Sherpas. Abramov had to turn around with Livanov (altitude) from the Balcony with two Sherpas. Rest of the climbers and 10 Sherpas got to the summit at 11:30 am on 23 May. The team returned C4 around 4 pm and went down to C2 where they arrived around 10 pm. Wolfson and Dawa spent the night at C3, next day to C2. Three climbers and two Sherpas including Abramov spent night at C1. All members moved to BC and Kathmandu (Livanov) from C2.

  Wong Dorchi Sherpa died on 23 May at South Col after summiting (Phu Dorchi found him dead).

  Second summit team:

  Rostovtsev and Kalabukhova with 3 Sherpas left BC on 21 May to C1. On 22 May they went to C2. The team waited there for good weather till 29 May and on 30 May they reached C3 with four Sherpas. They were at C4 on 31 May and started for summit at 9 pm. The team got to the summit at 6 am on 1 June and stayed there for about an hour, then descended C4 around 10 am. They left C4 at 11:30 am and reached C2 around 2:30 pm. The climbers went down to BC and to Kathmandu by Heli.

  All the other members reached C2 during the rotation period. Grigorev left BC on 26 April with his daughter who was a member of the trekking group of the company.

  Oxygen: 
    Rostovtsev and Sherpas: C3 to Smt to C3/C4
    Others: C2 to Smt to C2


expid: EVER21113
peakid: EVER
year: 2021
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Ryan Waters
sponsor: Mountain Professionals Everest Expedition 2021
countries: Norway
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2021-04-12
smtdate: 2021-05-23
smttime: 1115
termdate: 2021-04-29
campsites: BC(12/04,5300m),C1(20/04,6000m),C2(28/04,6500m),C3(21/05,7200m),C4(22/05,7950m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Himalayan Trailblazer
routememo:
  Summit team left C4 on 23 May at 4 am, summit at 11:15 am, stayed 20 minutes, then descended to C4 arrivng at 4 pm.

  Extremely windy night. Team chose to leave in the morning after a predicted low wind period was forecast for most the day of 23rd. Also behind all the others. So no waiting and it was warm climb.


expid: EVER21114
peakid: EVER
year: 2021
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Romania
leaders: Marius-Sebastian Purice
sponsor: High Himalayan International Everest Expedition 2021
countries: Nepal, USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2021-04-24
smtdate: 2021-05-24
smttime: 0632
termdate: 2021-05-27
campsites: BC(24/04,5350m),C1(01/05,6000m),C2(04/05,6400m),C3(21/05,7000m),C4(22/05,8000m),Smt(24/05)
agency: High Himalayan Climbing
routememo:
  The night of the 23rd was relatively mild at start (8:40 pm), but the wind picked up significantly during the triangular face and balcony. At summit level, we estimated the wind was a stead 35-40 kph, and windchill -40c. Other than the wind, fair weather conditions persisted and there were few clouds in the sky.

  Hershman, Jyamchang Bhote and Pasang Bhote summmited at 6:32 am, while Purice, Rinjin Bhote and Panche Rai summited at 7:40 am. Both groups stayed on top 10-12 minutes, then descended to C4, around 11:40 am for Hershman and 1 pm for Purice.

  Team attempted the night of 22nd, but turned around at the beggining of the triagular face due to strong winds at low altitude, a late start, and many other climbers slowing the route.

  Oxygen: Used from C3 to summit to 8000m.


expid: EVER21115
peakid: EVER
year: 2021
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Andreas Neuschmid
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Everest Expedition 2021
countries: Luxembourg
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2021-04-27
smtdate: 2021-05-12
smttime: 0714
termdate: 2021-05-15
campsites: BC(27/04,5350m),C1(03/05,6100m),C2(04/05,6440m),C3(10/05,7200m),C4(11/05,7800m),Smt(12/05)
agency: Himalaya Vision (High Himalayan Climbing pmt)
routememo:
  BC  27/04  5350m
  C1  03/05  6100m
  C2  04/05  6440m
  C3  10/05  7200m
  C4  11/05  7800m
  Smt  2/05  by Philipe Harles, Dendi Sherpa and Lal Bahadur Tamang at 7:14 am.

  On summit day summit team left C4 at 8 pm on 11/05. Weather was perfect. It was not too cold and no wind whatsoever. They spent about 30 minutes on the summit. They descended to C4 where they had a rest and continued to C3 where they arrived at 8 pm. They intended to go down to C2 on the day, but a storm prevented them from continuing farther. On 13/05 the storm abated and they descended to BC.

  Neuschmid reached BC, but contracted COVID-19 and was evacuated to Kathmandu on 30/04. He spent two days in hospital and then quarantined in a hotel in Kathmandu. It took him a long time to recover, but he was getting better on 16/05.

  Harles left BC on 15/05 by heli.

  Oxygen: taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Harles and Sherpas.


expid: EVER21116
peakid: EVER
year: 2021
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Africa
leaders: Seva Gorlach
sponsor: South African Everest Expedition 2021
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2021-04-13
smtdate: 2021-05-12
termdate: 2021-05-30
termnote: Abandoned at 8200m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(13/04,5364m),C1(02/05,6100m),C2(04/05,6400m),C3(11/05,7100m),C4(12/05,7900m),xxx(12/05,8200m)
agency: Top Himalaya Guides (High Himalayan Climbing pmt)
routememo:
  Seva Gorlach and Tshering Pande Bhote made two attempts for the summit:

    12/05 - reached 8200m, then turned back due to bad weather
    26/05 - reached 8100m, then turned back due to bad weather and strong winds
            (only Gorlach and Bhote tried for the summit that day)

  Gorlach spent a total of 3 nights at the S Col.


expid: EVER21117
peakid: EVER
year: 2021
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Rupert Hauer
sponsor: Furtenbach Adventures Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2021
countries: Germany, Italy, Luxembourg, Romania
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2021-04-24
smtdate: 2021-05-01
termdate: 2021-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to Covid outbreak at base camp
othersmts: Attempted Lhotse (LHOT-211-12)
campsites: BC(24/04,5360m),C1(28/04,5940m),C2(29/04,6400m),C3(01/05,7100m),xxx
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  Lukas Furtenbach cancelled his two Furtenbach Adventure expeditions due to safety concerns over the massive Covid outbreak in base camp. The officially cancelled their expeditions on May 15th, after they tested one member positive in their team.

  Ther teams were Covid free until they did the first rotation. They had a closed, isolated base camp and followed strict safety and hygiene protocols. In the Icefall they had contact with other teams for the first time. The next day they tested one member positive for Covid-19.

  The following members stayed on after the others left base camp and summited with the Pioneer team on 31 May:

    Markus Allesch
    Anja Blacha
    Moritz Werner
    Delia Zanoschi
    Julia Zanoschi


expid: EVER21118
peakid: EVER
year: 2021
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Lukas Furtenbach
sponsor: Furtenbach Adventures Flash Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2021
countries: Germany, Israel, Norway, USA
approach: Lukla->Mera Peak->Everest BC
bcdate: 2021-05-01
smtdate: 2021-05-07
termdate: 2021-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to Covid outbreak at base camp
othersmts: Attempted Lhotse (LHOT-211-13)
campsites: BC(01/05,5300m),C1(05/05,6050m),C2(06/05,6450m),C3(07/05,7100m),xxx
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  Lukas Furtenbach cancelled his two Furtenbach Adventure expeditions due to safety concerns over the massive Covid outbreak in base camp. The officially cancelled their expeditions on May 15th, after they tested one member positive in their team.

  Ther teams were Covid free until they did the first rotation. They had a closed, isolated base camp and followed strict safety and hygiene protocols. In the Icefall they had contact with other teams for the first time. The next day they tested one member positive for Covid-19.


expid: EVER21119
peakid: EVER
year: 2021
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Khai Van Nguyen
sponsor: Pioneer Adventure Everest Expedition 2021
countries: Austria, Germany, India, Italy, Kuwait, Lithuania, Morocco, Nepal, Poland, Romania, UK
smtdate: 2021-05-23
smttime: 0630
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(23,31/05)
agency: Pioneer Adventure
routememo:
  Report from Anja Blacha (transferred from Furtenbach teams to Pioneer):

  Regarding summit times:
     5:55 am - Pasang Sherpa and Chakra Rai
     6:00 am - Delia Zanoschi, Ming Dorchi Sherpa and Pemba Tashi Sherpa
     6:10 am - Iulia Zanoschi, Lakpa Gyaljen Sherpa and Lakpa Thinduk Sherpa
     6:20 am - Moritz Werner and Chhiring Namgel Sherpa
    11:20 am - Anja Blacha and Dawa Sherpa

  Manuel Villani who also moved from Furtenbach to Pioneer reached C2 on the summit rotation. He felt insecure about the whole move to Pioneer and was mentally not prepared for it. When the weather turned and it got windy he decided to go down after one night at C2.

  Oxygen:
    Blacha was intending to go without supplemental O2, but with the high winds
    she started using oxygen at the Balcony to the summit and back to somewhere 
    between Balcony and C4.

    Werner from 8300m to C4
    Delia Zanoschi from C2 to summit to C3
    Iulia Zanoschi C2 to just before BC
    Sherpas from C3 to summit to C4


  Report from Sambhaji Gurav:

  BC(19/04,5340m),C1(23/04,6000m),C2(03/05,6400m),C3(21/05,7200m),
    C4(22/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)

  Team (Gurav, Kumar and Taibi) summited at 6:30 am, stayed 20 minutes, then descended to C2 at 7 pm.

  Oxygen: 
    Members from C3 to summit to C3, Sherpas from C4 to smt to C4


  Khai Van Nguyen report:

  BC(18/04,5364m),C1(04/05,5900m),C2(05/05,6400m),C3(21/05,7162m),
    C4(22/05,7906m),Smt(23/05)

  Van Nguyen and Chhiring Namgyal left C4 at 12:20 am, summited at 7 pm, stayed 15 minutes, then descended to C4 at 11:40 pm.

  "When I started out at South Col, the wind had died down significantly from the night before (when most climbers, including from Pioneer started their summit push). However, after about 3 hours, we reached to the balcony when the wind picked up again. Because we started our summit push at "odd" hour, there were only 4 people (2 climbers, that is myself and Markus and two Sherpas) going up. Other climbers were descending and surprised to see us going up. Near the yellow band rock with the steep slope, there was virtually no wind that I was warm in my down suit. Markus started out from South Col earlier than me, probably around 12:00 pm and climbed quite fast. He summited before me. I met Markus and his Sherpa near South Summit on their way down. While my Sherpa and I marched on to the summit, we experienced the beautiful sunset and by the time I reached to the top, the sun disappeared from the horizon."


  Additional Notes:

  Leo Namen was a client of Makalu Extreme on the Pioneer Adventures permit. Dorchi Sherpa is husband of Oxana Morneva (Makalu Extreme owner) and summited on 11/05 to take videos.


expid: EVER21121
peakid: EVER
year: 2021
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Elia Saikaly
sponsor: Ascent Himalayas Everest Expedition 2021
countries: Argentina, France, Norway, USA
bcdate: 2021-03-20
smtdate: 2021-05-11
smttime: 0805
termdate: 2021-05-14
campsites: BC(20/03,5125m),C1(30/03,5900m),C2(06/04,6200m),C3(08/05/7200m),C4(10/05,8000m),Smt(11/05)
agency: Ascent Himalayas (Pioneer Adventures pmt)
routememo:
  Summit team left C4 at 9 pm on 10 May, summited at 8 am on 11 May, stayed 30 minutes, then descended to C4. Clear weather, winds 5 to 20 kph during the climb.

  Oxygen: From C3 to summit to C3 (7200m).

  Drouin was a Thamserku client with Ascent Himalayas on the Pioneer Adventure permit. Dawa Gyalzen was with Drouin.


expid: EVER21122
peakid: EVER
year: 2021
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: SummitClimb Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2021
countries: UK
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2021-04-16
smtdate: 2021-05-24
smttime: 0430
termdate: 2021-05-29
othersmts: Attempted Lhotse (LHOT-211-11)
campsites: BC(16/04,5350m),C1(25/04,6000m),C2(28/04,6400m),C3(02/05,7200m),C4(23/05,7950m),Smt(24/05)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  Summit team left C4 at 8 pm of 23 May, summited at 4:30-6:00 am, then descended to the S Col.

  Oxygen: Members and Sherpas from C3 or C4 to summit to C3.


  From Jacob Gardner - 20 Dec 2021

  Summit Push:

  BC  16/05 5300m to C2 6500m
  C2  21/05 6500m to C3 7100m
  C3  22/05 7100m to C4 7950m
  C4  24/05 7950m to Smt

  Smt 24/05 by Jacob Gardner, Don Wargowsky, Karma Gyalje Sherpa and Gyalje Sherpa at 4:30 am, and by Eric Gran, Tenzing Sherpa and Ang Dorje Sherpa at 6:00 am.

  Jacob Gardner (Jake) and Don Wargowsky pushed to 8000m without O’s. They left C3 on the 22 May at around 07:30 am after the winds had died down. It took them around 9 hrs at a steady pace to reach C4. The original plan was to stay at C4 for 3 hrs and then head to the summit. But it was decided at C4 by leader Don that they would go for the summit the following day. The upside was avoiding any potential queues. Jake made the decision to not to sleep with no O’s at C4. This was his first time above 7000m.

  Jake and Don left C4 at 20:00 on the 23rd May. Jake “With next to no one above us, a stark contrast to the night before. A clear night, with a full moon on O’s we made good progress up to the Balcony where we had a small break. We reached the summit at around 04:30 am at a steady pace. Stayed on the summit for around 30-45 minutes as it got light and then made our way back down. C4 to summit to C4 in around 12 hrs. We then made our way back down to C2. One night at C2 and then made our way back down to EBC the following day.”

  [Gardner] suffered with back injury and arm (injuries sustained on operation in Afghanistan).

  No attempt on Lhotse.

  No COVID or illnesses in team as all rules were adhered to. No mixing with other teams.


expid: EVER21124
peakid: EVER
year: 2021
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Arnold Coster
sponsor: Arnold Coster Expeditions Everest 2021
countries: China, Mexico, USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2021-04-15
smtdate: 2021-06-01
smttime: 0440
termdate: 2021-06-04
campsites: BC(15/04,5200m),C1(30/04,6050m),C2(01/05,6400m),C3(07/05,7100m),C4(31/05,7950m),Smt(01/06)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Summit team left C4 at 8 pm on 31 May, summited between 4:40 and 6:45 am on 1 June, stayed 10 minutes (very windy, about 40 kph), then descended to C2 arriving from 5 to 7 pm. Straight-forward climb.

  Coster remained at S Col to coordinate the expedition.

  Oxygen:
    Miao Zhong, Jur Rademakers and Hylke Knot started from bottom Lhotse face
    at 6700m. Other members from C3 7100m. Everybody used oxygen to return C2.
    Sherpas used from C3.


expid: EVER21125
peakid: EVER
year: 2021
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Umesh Zirpe
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks International Everest Expedition 2021
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->BC
smtdate: 2021-05-11
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-211-21_
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(11-12,21,23,31/05,01/06)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
countries:
  Argentina,Austria,Germany,Hungary,Iran,Ireland,Israel,Japan,Latvia,Pakistan, Poland,Russia,S Africa,Spain,Switzerland,Tajikistan,UK,Ukraine,USA, Uzbekistan

routememo:
  The Seven Summit Treks Everest expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-4 climbers each). Seven Summit Treks provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Felix Berg (Germany)
  Robert Westreicher (Austria)

  Camps: BC(29/05,5350m),C3(30/05,7100m),C4(31/05,7950m),Smt(01/06)
  Left:  03/06/21
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Summited 01/06 at 6:10 am by Westreicher and Pasang [?] and by Berg
         and Rinji [?] at 8:20 am.       

  Summit team left C4 on 31 May at 8 pm, summited at 6:10-8:20 am, stayed 20 minutes, then descended to C2. Good conditions, windy about 50 km/h, too early, not many people.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to summit to C2.


  Josette Valloton (Switzerland)

  Camps: BC(23/04,5350m),C1(25/04,6100m,C2(26/04,6440m),C3(30/05,7200m),
           C4(31/05,7800m),Smt(01/06)
  Left:  04/06/21
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Summited 01/06 at 8 am by Valloton and Mingma Ongdi Sherpa

  On summit day team started from C4 at 11 pm on 31/05. They met Arnold Coster’s team who were coming down at the Hillary Step. Spent about 20 minutes on summit and descended to C2, where they stayed the night. On 2nd June BC.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from above the Yellow Band (7700m) to summit to C3.


  Amin Dehgan (Iran)

  Camps: BC(20/04,5350m),C1(26/04,5900m,C2(27/04,6450m),C3(10/05,7150m),
           C4(11/05,7950m),Smt(12/06)
  Left:  04/06/21
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Summited 12/05 at 7:30 am by Dehghan and Mingma Nurbu Sherpa.


  David Goettler (Germany)
  Kilian Jornet (Spain)

  Camps: BC(22/04,5350m),C2(24/04,6500m),C3(09/05,7300m),C4(31/05,7950m),xxx
  Left:  03/06/21 (trekked to Pheriche)
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned due to climbers not feeling well.

  On 30/05 Goettler left BC at 5 am and reached C2 at 9 am. He rested at C2 for the day and continued from C2 at 6 pm and reached C3 at 8 pm the same day. He felt good. He reached C4 at 5:30 am on 31/05, pitched a tent and waited for Kilian Jornet who set out from BC on 30/05 at 4 pm and reached C4 at 6 am on 31/05.

  Jornet’s times and descent times for both Goettler and Jornet
    BC: 4 p, on 30/05
    C2: 7:30 pm (+30’ rest, prepared water)
    C3: 11 pm
    C4: 6 am (then we stayed about 1h in C4)
    C2: 10 am (we went down very slowly, talking with people,then packed all the
        tents and gear in C2 for about 1h30
    BC: 3 pm

  Both Göttler and Jornet were not feeling well and they seemed to be suffering from the same thing. Goettler thought it could have been a light sun stroke. Due to their physical condition, they both decided to descend to BC and abandon the expedition. Had they felt better they would have given it a go even though the winds were still quite high.

  On 01/06 they trekked to Pheriche and took a helicopter to Kathmandu on 02/06.

  BC set up: Goettler spent most of his time in Dingboche and Pheriche and only stayed 10 nights at the actual Everest BC. Jornet arrived in Dingboche on 27/04. He had been pre-acclimatising in a hypoxic tent and joined Goettler.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


  Noel Hanna (Ireland)
  Molly De Jager (S Africa)

  Camps: BC(13/04,5400m),C1(27/04,6000m),C2(28/04,6400m),C3(10/05,7200m),
           C4(11/05,7900m),Smt(12/05)
  Left:  15/05/21
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Summited 12/05 at 8:30 am by Hanna, De Jager, Tshering Sherpa, Nima Sherpa.

  Summit team started from C4 at 9 pm on 11/05, summited at 8:30 am, stayed 10 minutes, then descended to C4 at 2 pm. Windy approaching summit and back to C4.

  Oxygen:
    Used from C3 to summit to C3.


  Mykyta Bababanov (Ukraine)
  Sergejs Belovs (Lativa)
  Vitaly Khinenzon (Tajikistan)
  Natalia Vladykina (Ukraine)
  Sergey Denisenko (Uzbekistan)
  Jurii Solodukhin (Russia)

  Camps: BC(21/04,5300m),C1(29/04,6100m),C2(30/04,6470m),C3(29/05,7100m),
           C4(30/05,7900m),Smt(31/05,01/06)
  Left:  03/06/21
  Hired: 5
  Term:  Summited 31/05 at 6:30 am by Soludukhin and Dawa Rinji.
  Term:  Summited 01/06 at 6:30-9:00 am by Balabanov, Vladykina, Denisenko, 
         Khinenzon, Belovs, Nga Tashi [?], Pemba Thinduk, Ngima [?] and Mingma 
         Dorchi [?].

  First summit team started from C4 at 9 pm on 30/05, summited at 6:30 am. Very windy.

  Second summit team started from C4 at 8 pm on 31/05, summited at 6:30-9:00 am, then descended to C4. Clear sky, but a lot of wind.

  Oxygen: Used from C3 to summit to C3 by members, from 7800m by Sherpas.


  Vassily Vorobiev (Switzerland)
  Mikhail Vorobiev (Switzerland)

  Camps: BC(19/04,5300m),C1(23/04,6000m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(21/05,7100m),
           C4(22/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
  Left:  26/05/21
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Summited 12/05 at 9 am by Vassily & Mikhail Vorobiev, Fursang Sherpa.

  Summit team started from C4 at 9 pm on 22/05, summited at 9 am, stayed 30 minutes, then descended to C4 at 8 pm. Strong wind at night, around 50 km/h. Then when the sun rose, the wind stopped and amazing weather with no clouds.

  Oxygen:
    Used from C3 to summit to C3.


  Alex Chicon (Txikon) (Spain)

  Camps: BC(29/04,5350m),C1(07/05,6100m),C2(08/05,6440m),xxx
  Left:  10/05/21
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned at 6440m due to illness.

  Txikon felt bad at C2 and he suspected that he had contracted COVID-19 so he descended to BC on 09/05, where he was tested and the test came out negative. As he did not feel better, he took a helicopter back to Kathmandu on 10/05 where he tested positive a few days later. Txikon has a suspicion that the tests at BC are meant to come out negative.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


expid: EVER21126
peakid: EVER
year: 2021
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Pasang Phurba Sherpa
sponsor: Nepalese Sagarmatha Expedition 2021
smtdate: 2021-05-11
smttime: 0756
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(11/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Five members of the Nepalese Sagarmatha Expedition summited on 11 May at 7:56 am, Tashi Lakpa Sherpa (climbing leader), Sobit Gauchan (professional helicopter pilot), Phurba Chhiring Sherpa, along with two high-altitude assistants, Nga Tashi Sherpa and Pasang Sherpa.

  Gauchan is the first Nepalese helicopter pilot to summit Everest and is the director of Heli Everest. Tashi Lakpa and Phurba Chhiring are also affiliated with the company.


expid: EVER21130
peakid: EVER
year: 2021
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Craig Van Hoy
sponsor: Kaitu International Everest Expedition 2021
countries: Denmark, Iceland
bcdate: 2021-04-26
smtdate: 2021-05-23
smttime: 0945
termdate: 2021-05-29
campsites: BC(26/04,5364m),C1(02/05,6050m),C2(03/05.6550m),C3(21/05,7300m),C4(22/05,7925m),Smt(23-24/05)
agency: Kaitu Expedition
routememo:
  Sveinsson and Hallgrimsson were Ang Himalayan Adventures clients on Kaitu permit along with their Sherpas:

    Ang Tshering Lama (owner of Ang Himalayan Adventures)
    Lakpa Chhiri Sherpa
    Mingmar Tamang

  They made no attempt on Lhotse after summiting Everest.


  Reid Larson report:

  Larson and Tashi Thundu left C4 at 11:45 pm on 22 May, summited at 9:45 am on 23 May, stayed 30 minutes, then descended to C2 at 7:30 pm. Windy at S Col <=40 knots.

  Oxygen: Used from C3 to summit to C3.


  Carsten Pederson report:

  Appr: Namche to EBC by heli

  BC(27/04,5350m),C1(02/05,6100m),C2(03/05,6440m),C3(21/05),C4(22/05,7900m),xxx

  Pedersen started to feel very tired on the way from C3 to C4. When Pedersen and Yukta Gurung arrived at C4 the weather was bad, and they stayed for two nights to wait for the weather to improve. However, the weather did not improve, and Pedersen did not feel too well and slow, they descended to C2 on 24/05. The storm came in and Pedersen felt worse and the COVID-19 symptoms were getting worse. The weather only cleared on 29/05 and picked up Pedersen and first flew to BC where they picked up another person. They flew to Lukla, changed helicopters and flew to Kathmandu.

  In Kathmandu, Pedersen did a COVID-19 test at CIVIC, and it was positive. He stayed at the Hyatt for his quarantine and flew back to Denmark on 07/06 with a negative PCR test.

  Hired: Yukta Gurung from Gorkha


expid: EVER21131
peakid: EVER
year: 2021
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Harshvardhan Joshi
sponsor: Satori International Everest-Lhotse Expedition
countries: France, Italy, Japan, S Korea
bcdate: 2021-04-12
smtdate: 2021-05-12
smttime: 0700
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-211-08)
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(12,23/05)
agency: Satori Adventures
routememo:
  The Satori Interational Everest expedition was a combination of several independent teams. Satori Adventures provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Angelo Vasco (Italy)

  Camps: BC(12/04,5345m),C1(24/04,6100m),C2(25/04,6450m),C3(11/05,7100m),
           C4(12/05,7900m),xxx
  Left:  17/05/21
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 7900m due to weather conditions (windstorm with blizzards,
           70/80 km/h wind gusts and visibility below 5m distance)

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C2 to C4 to C3.


  Franck Tessier (France)

  Camps: BC(13/04,5300m),C1(24/04,5900m),C2(27/04,6500m),C3(11/05,7200m),
           C4(11/05,7900m),Smt(12/05)
  Left:  15/05/21
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Summited at 7 am with Nima Sherpa.

  Summit team left C4 at 8 pm on 11/05, summited at 7 am, stayed 30 minutes, then descended to C2. Good weather, but despite of COVID, a lot of people were climbing and very slowly.

  Tessier had light frosbite injuries (level 2). Difficulties to use rope on the descent from C4 to C3 with the big gloves. He was obliged to use light ones and he got frostbite. A other reason is the lack of water ingestion.

  2 died during the ascent day, but he do not know who they were.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from 7500m to summit to C3.


  Yuki Ueda (Japan)

  Camps: BC(15/04,5300m),C1(16/04),C2(17/04),C3(21/05),C4(22/05),Smt(23/05)
  Left:  29/05/21
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Summited at 9:00 am by Ueda, Dachhetar Sherpa and Chhiring Sherpa.

  The team started its summit push at 10:30 pm on 22 May and reached summit at 9 am on 23 May. They stayed on summit 10-15 minutes and returned C4 where they arrived at 3 pm. Descent took long time due to traffic jam mainly at the Hillary Step. There were 25-30 climbers before them on the summit. Over 200 climbers summited on that day. On 24 May went down to C2 where they stayed for two nights and on 26 descended to BC. On 29 May to Gorak Shep and on 30 Heli to Lukla. Weather on summit day it was windy above Balcony-South Summit. Many climbers returned from Balcony and South Summit due to the high wind.

  Note: UEDA planned to go for the Lhotse summit, but due to tiredness he did not try for it.

  Oxygen: 
    Used by Ueda and Chhiring from C2 to summit to C2
    Used by Dachhetar from 8000m to summit to 8000m.


expid: EVER21133
peakid: EVER
year: 2021
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Manish Kashniyal
sponsor: Indian Mountaineering Federation (IMF) Everest Massif Expedition 2021
bcdate: 2021-04-15
smtdate: 2021-05-31
smttime: 0520
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-211-03)
campsites: BC(15/04,5364m),C1(26/04,6100m),C2(27/04,6400m),C3(22/05,7200m),C4(30/05,7906m),Smt(31/05,01/06)
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  All team members from C2 to C4 on 30/05. Kumar then summited on 31/05 while the other members summited on 01/06.

  Second summit team left C4 at 9 pm on 31/05, summited at 5:15-5:50 am on 01/06, stayed 25-30 minutes, the descended to C2 from 6 to 10 pm.


expid: EVER21136
peakid: EVER
year: 2021
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jonathan Lamy
sponsor: Glacier Himalaya International Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2021
countries: Cuba, Japan
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2021-04-15
smtdate: 2021-05-23
smttime: 0650
termdate: 2021-05-28
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-211-16)
campsites: BC(15/04,5300m,C1(26/04,6050m),C2(27/04,6500m),C3(19/05,7300m),C4(21/05,7925m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Glacier Himalaya Treks
routememo:
  French Team report from Lamy:

  French team to Lobuche East on 20 Apr for acclimatization.
  29 Apr touched C3 and back to C2 for sleeping; next day to BC.
  Stayed to Namche Bazar to recover for a while, back to BC on the 10 May.

  Lamy summit assault schedule:

  16-18 May: at C2 waiting for the summit window
  19 May:    at C3
  21-23 May: at C4
  23 May:    left C4 at 10:20 pm on 22 May, summited at 6:50 am n 23 May, stayed 
             there 2:10, then back to C4 at 12:30 pm. Up in 8:30 hrs, 
             down in 3:30 hrs (12h day/effort).
  24 May:    left C4 at 9 am, summit of Lhotse at 4 pm, back to C2 at 10:30 pm
             (14h day/effort).
  25 May:    back to BC.

  Lamy is the 2nd French to make Everest-Lhotse after Elisabeth Revol. Climbed with Da Dendi Sherpa.

  Jonathan Kubler: same dates than Lamy. On Everest, started at 9:20 pm, summited at 7:30 am; on Lhotse summited at 4:30 pm.

  Michel Viso: Acclimatization up to C3, his high point. Abandoned the expedition because of contracted Covid (was heli-rescued).

  Oxygen: Used from C3 to summit to C3.

  Hired:
    Da Dendi (Da Tendi) Sherpa
    Basanta Tamang
    Sange Sherpa
    Ang Gelu Sherpa
    Da Lakpa Sherpa


expid: EVER21137
peakid: EVER
year: 2021
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Romania
leaders: Maria Danila
sponsor: Snowy Horizon International Everest Expedition 2021
countries: El Salvador, Estonia, India, Japan, Montenegro, UK, USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2021-04-11
smtdate: 2021-05-23
smttime: 0629
termdate: 2021-05-30
campsites: BC(11/04,5300m),C1(28/04,6050m),C2(29/04,6500m),C3(12/05,7100m),C4(22/05,7950m),Smt(23/05)
accidents: Some members infected by covid.
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  Approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->BC (main team); 2 Americans via 3 passes.

  BC  11/04  5300m
  C1  28/04  6050m
  C2  29/04  6500m
  C3  12/05  7100m
  C4  22/05  7950m
  Smt 23/05  by Ferrier-May and Pemba Nuru Sherpa at 6:29 am.

  On 16 May summit push started from BC; Danila, Merisalu, Valle Arrue, Birukov, and Birukova reached C2 along with their support Sherpas. Ferrier-May left BC on 17 May to C2. On 21 May all went to C3 and on 22 May to C4. Ferrier-May had a rest for three hours in C4 and left for summit at 9:20 pm with Pemba Nuru Sherpa. They got to the top at 6:29 am on 23 May, and stayed on the summit about 30 minutes. They got back to C4 between 11 am-12 pm and left there around 2:30 pm and reached C2 at 9:30 pm. Next day, 24 May they went down to BC. The summit day weather was windy.

  High points reached by the other members;

  Maria Danila: on 22 May climbed up to 8200m with Bir Bahadur and gave up due to high wind.

  Darko Sekularac: on 12 May went up to 6600m (above C2); he used Oxygen from C1. He suffered from altitude sickness vomiting + probably infected by Covid and evacuated by heli from C1 on 14 May.

  Konstantin Birukov: to 7950m (C4) on 22 May and did not go further up due to the high winds.

  Umesh Giri Panicker: to 6050m; he stayed in C1 for three days infected by Covid and evacuated by heli on 9 May to Kathmandu.

  Toshihiro Yokoi: to 6800m on acclimatization rotation and back to BC on 1 May, stayed 2 days in the tent and heli to Kathmandu on 3 May infected by Covid. He was back to BC on 22 and wanted to try for summit on 27 push and went off the Khumbu icefall 200m and gave up due to exhaustion.

  Vimal Kumar: to 6500m (C2). After his first rotation he went down to Lukla and tested Covid positive. On 22 May he came back to BC. On 27 May he went up to probably to C2 and returned BC on 28 May, probably loss of vision.

  Anna Birukova: to 7950m, C4 on 22 May.

  Alfa Karina Valle Arrue: to 7950m, C4 22 May. Aborted due to high winds.

  Katrin Merisalu: to C4 on 22 May. Heli lift from C2 on 24 May (Covid?) She left Nepal on 29 May.

  Returned to KTM different dates, but all the climbers left on 30 May.

  Oxygen: 
    Ferrier-May from C4-summit-7300m, other members from C3 and C1
    Sherpas C4-summit-C4


  From Simon Ferrier-May Instagram posting:

  Me and Pemba Nurbu Sherpa (a lama from Pangboche monestry) reached the highest point on Earth at 06:29 on 23rd May.

  “Here is just some of what we had to battle along the way:

  • 45km/h winds on summit day. Enough to literally blow you off your feet, 
    producing a wind chill of -35C.
  • Pemba and I only had 5 bottles of oxygen to share between us on our summit 
    push (you usually need 5 each), and two of the bottles were found on the 
    south col from a 2018 expedition and kept aside for us.
  • My first sherpa got pneumonia and got heli evacuated at the end of April.
  • My second sherpa got Covid and got heli evacuated in mid-May.
  • I climbed between base camp and camp 2, alone, four times when my sherpa 
    were sick.
  • I fell down a small crevasse in the Khumbu icefall, alone, and climbed 
    myself back out, getting away with only some scrapes and bruises.
  • I got covid (then climbed from base camp to camp 2, 6500m / 21300ft… one 
    of the more difficult days of my life!).
  • We had the worst weather on Everest since 2005. We didn’t have a real 
    weather window. We just made do with the only possible chance.
  • And on the descent we got completely lost in the Khumbu icefall.

  We left camp 4 for our summit bid at 21:30 on 22nd May. We then went 24 hours(!) from camp 4 to the top of the world and down to camp 2… an ascent of 940m, and a descent of 2300m!! That was all after only 3 hours’ rest at camp 4…. which was after climbing 9 hours from camp 3 to 4 (7100m – 7910m) without oxygen.

  In total, a 36 hour push!

  My ascent from camp 4 was with oxygen (I used 3 bottles from 7920m). A no-oxygen attempt was over for me when my second sherpa got sick at camp 2, right before our planned rotation to camps 3 and 4 – the most important thing for a no-ox attempt.

  After I got covid, any version of success seemed unachievable… so I’m very happy to have got the summit.

  Of our expedition (the company I had a permit with), there were 10 members and I think 14 sherpa…. Only Pemba and I made the summit. All others either got sick or turned around.

  Everest, for me, is done. I’m never coming back. But I stood on top of the world, and no one will ever be able to take that away from me.


expid: EVER21138
peakid: EVER
year: 2021
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Taiwan
leaders: Tseng K-Erh (Grace)
sponsor: "Speed Ascent of Everest" Expedition 2021
countries: China, Nepal
bcdate: 2021-04-23
smtdate: 2021-05-12
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2021-05-29
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-211-18)
campsites: BC(23/04,5350m),C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(12,23/05)
achievment: Fast woman to summit Everest
agency: Dreamers Destination Treks
routememo:
  From Dreamers Destination:

  It is an honor and pure pleasure to inform you that the team of Yin Hung Tsang - Ada (Hong Kong) accompanied by Sirdar Pemba Dorje Sherpa (Nepal), mountain guides Phurba Thiley Sherpa (Nepal), Nima Gyalzen Sherpa (Nepal), Mingma Nuru Sherpa (Nepal), Padam Tamang (Nepal), and expedition leader Phurba Tenjing Sherpa (Nepal) have successfully completed the speed ascent of the Mt. Everest in the female category. Ada, an ultra runner and the first Everest Summiteer from Hong Kong climbed Everest from base camp (5300m) to the summit (8848.86m) in 25 hours and 50 minutes today.

  She started this journey yesterday at 1:20 pm in the afternoon (May 22, 2021) from the base camp and reached the summit this afternoon at 3:10pm (May 23, 2021) making the world record of 25 hours 50 minutes.

  Ada and the team first attempted this speed ascent on May 12, 2021. Due to extremely harsh weather (high-speed wind and knee-high snow), they decided to descend back from 8750m.

  Tons of Congratulations to the entire team for this wonderful feat. 
  With this good news, the team #dreamersdestination has 100% (Everest & Lhotse) expedition success this spring with three record-breaking achievements.

  1. The fastest woman to climb Everest from the south (Nepal) side by Ying Hung Tsang.

  2. The most siblings to have climbed Everest (Pemba Gyalzen Sherpa, Phurba Thundu Sherpa, Pemba Gyalzen Sherpa, Nima Gyalzen Sherpa, Phurba Tenjing Sherpa, Phurba Thiley Sherpa, Dawa Diki Sherpa and Nima Lhamu Sherpa).

  3. 21st successful Everest ascent by an eminent record holder mountaineer Pemba Dorje Sherpa.

  Also, the team leader Miss Grace Tseng Ko (Taiwan) has climbed Everest and Lhotse on May 12 and May 23 simultaneously, one step closer to 14’ 8000ers.

  Special thanks go to amazing government officials Mr. Gyanendra Shrestha  (Everest Summiteer and LO) and Sona Sherpa (LO of the team) who supported tremendously being at the Everest Base Camp.

  A big round of applause to our base camp manager and head chef Bhuchung Lama (Executive Director) and all kitchen staffs for providing amazing food and amazing service. Shout out to Davide Peuzzi(Italy) and Josef Einwaller (Austria) for continuous information supply on weather reports. Kudos to Rojita Buddhacharya (Netherlands) for commendable communication and groundwork.

  Finally, we would like to thank all mountaineering communities for making this spring better amidst COVID terror.

  Note: “The [previous] fastest woman to climb Everest from the south side (Nepal) is Phujo Jhangmu Lama (Nepal), who completed her climb in a time of 39 hours 6 minutes on May 15-17, 2018.”


expid: EVER21139
peakid: EVER
year: 2021
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Nirmal Purja
sponsor: Elite Exped Everest-Lhotse 2021
countries: Canada, UK, USA
smtdate: 2021-05-31
smttime: 0700
othersmts: Attempted Lhotse (LHOT-211-23)
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4(30/21,7950m),Smt(31/05)
agency: Elite Exped
routememo:
  Team summited on 31 May.

  The following Everest summiters wanted to attempt Lhotse, but the attempt was called off due to avalanche danger:

    Jennifer Drummond
    Marie-Pier Desharnis
    Adriana Brownlee
    Nirma Purja 
    Mingma David Sherpa
    Prakash Sherpa
    Geljen Sherpa
    Dawa Tenji Sherpa
    Pem Dorji Sherpa (did not summit Everest)


expid: EVER21141
peakid: EVER
year: 2021
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Jacob Schmitz
sponsor: Mountain Trip Everest Expedition 2021
countries: Canada, Ireland, Poland, S Africa
bcdate: 2021-04-18
smtdate: 2021-04-24
termdate: 2021-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to approaching typhoon and Sherpa staff infected with Covid
campsites: BC(18/04,5350m),C1(26/04,6035m),C2(28/04,6500m),xxx
agency: Expedition Himalaya
routememo:
  From Marta Misztal (22 May 2022):

  I attempted Everest first time in 2021, completed 2 rotations (both times to Camp 2), then headed down to Dingboche for rest, got back up to base camp and the night before we were going to leave for the summit push the expedition got cancelled, because of Covid and bad weather.


expid: EVER21143
peakid: EVER
year: 2021
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Bernard Muller
sponsor: Climbalaya Everest Expedition 2021
countries: Hungary, Nepal, Switzerland, USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2021-04-13
smtdate: 2021-05-08
termdate: 2021-05-31
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to heavy snowfall
campsites: BC(13/04,5350m,C1(09/05,6070m),C2(10/05,6500m),xxx(11/05,7000m)
agency: Climbalaya
routememo:
  From Climbalaya FB page:

  Update from base camp 28 May 2021 @ 10am: Heavy snow at base camp and above. As reported Cyclone Yaas is going to hit the Everest regions for another 2 days and weather opening above camp 2 is expected tomorrow. How the conditions are for a safe climbing above camp 2 will have to be accessed. Matt, Emil, Nima, Christine, Pascal, Yves and our Sherpa team are waiting at camp 2 and are healthy and in good spirits.
   
  29-05-21: Due to the heavy snowfall for the past few days , we have accessed that there will be high risks in continuing our climb above camp 2. In this regard, we announce the cancellation of our summit bid and also the end of the expedition. Climbing members are currently descending to base camp and are all safe. This is sad and unfortunate and a difficult decision to make, but keeping the lives of our clients and Sherpas safe will always remain our top priority.


  From Emil Neszmelyi report:

  Expedition high point for members reached on 11/05 by Neszmelyi, Magoffin, Nima Doma and Nima Tenzing Sherpa.

  The Indian Cyclone made unexpected weather change and avalanches. Also icefall doctors kept in secret that they will not close icefall on 31 May, but will stay until 4 June. Therefore we started summit push too early.


expid: EVER21144
peakid: EVER
year: 2021
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Belarus
leaders: Sviatlana Kuzkova
sponsor: 8K Expeditions Everest 2021
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->BC
smtdate: 2021-05-23
smttime: 0745
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(23/05)
achievment: Likely the fastest female from Ktmdu to summit
agency: 8K Expeditions (Happy Feet Mountaineers pmt)
routememo:
  Kuzkova summit team left C4 at 9:30 pm on 22/05, summited at 7:45 am, stayed 15-20 minutes, then dsecended to C2.

  Oxygen: From C3 to summit to C3.

  Total 15 days from Kathmandu to summit.


expid: EVER21146
peakid: EVER
year: 2021
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Purna Kumar Sherpa
sponsor: Father & Son Climate Change Campaign Expedition 2021
smtdate: 2021-05-23
smttime: 0850
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(23/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  The father-son duo of Purna Kumar (PK) Sherpa and Sonam Sherpa (age 16), reached the top of the mountain at 8:50 am on 23 May, formally beginning their campaign to climb the tallest mountains of all the continents to raise awareness about climate change.


expid: EVER21150
peakid: EVER
year: 2021
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Chatur Tamang
sponsor: ChaTours Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2021
countries: China, India
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2021-04-20
smtdate: 2021-05-31
smttime: 0710
termdate: 2021-06-03
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-211-09)
campsites: BC(20/04,5350m),C1(26/04,6000m),C2(27/04,6400m),C3(21/05,7300m),C4(22/05,78900m),Smt(31/05,01/06)
agency: Chatours Treks (Satori Adventures pmt)
routememo:
  BC  20/04  5350m
  C1  26/04  6000m
  C2  27/04  6400m
  C3  11/05  7300m
  C4  12/05  7900m
  Smt 31/05  by Maoxing Fang and Pasang Dorjee Sherpa at 7.10 am
  Smt 01/06  by Naina Singh Dhakad and guide Anup Rai at 9 am.

  Fang team left C4 at midnight on 31 May, summited at 7:10, then descended to C2.

  Dhakad team left C4 at 8 on on 31 May, summited at 9 am on 01/06, then descended to C4.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C2 to summit to C3.


expid: EVER21151
peakid: EVER
year: 2021
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Tsering Samdrup
sponsor: Holy Mountain Adventure Everest Expedition 2020
smtdate: 2021-05-14
termnote: Abandoned due to danger of covid infection
campsites: BC,ABC,xxx(14/05)
agency: Holy Mountain Adventure
routememo:
  Reuters, Beijing, May 15-

  Due to the current severe international epidemic situation, the State Sports General Administration of China issued a notice stating that it has decided to stop mountaineering activities on the north slope of Mount Everest in the spring of 2021, and requested the organizers to stop the mountaineering activities originally applied for.

  Xinhua News Agency quoted the notice later on Friday and stated that in order to effectively implement the directive requirements of "external defense input, internal defense rebound" and ensure foolproof, it decided to cancel the "General Administration of Sports Approval of Tibet Yala Shampoo Adventure Service Co., Ltd. to organize the spring of 2021." The decision to climb Mount Everest."

  The company is the only organizer to obtain a permit to organize climbing activities in the North Slope in the spring of 2021. A total of 21 Chinese climbers have obtained climbing permits.

  Mount Everest is located on the border between China and Nepal, but the recent epidemic situation in Nepal has been deteriorating.

  The Tibetan mountaineering management department previously decided to set up a "separation line" on the northern slope of Mount Everest, prohibiting anyone from the north and south slopes from contacting each other on the summit, and prohibiting Chinese climbers from having any contact with Nepalese Hada and other objects that have been hung on the summit.


expid: KCHS21101
peakid: KCHS
year: 2021
route1: Kangchung La-NW Ridge from N up; NW Ridge-S Face down
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Zdenek Hak
sponsor: Czech Kangchung Shar Expedition 2021
approach: From Gokyo over Ngojumba and Gaunara Glaciers below Kangchung Shar
bcdate: 2021-04-23
smtdate: 2021-04-28
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2021-04-27
campsites: BC(23/04,5200m),Biv1(27/04,5600m),Smt(28/04)
achievment: 1st traverse, 1st ascent of the North Face
agency: Utmost Adventure
routememo:
  BC   23/04  5200m
  Biv1 27/04  5600m (saddle between both Kangchung peaks)
  Smt  28/94  by Hak and Bansky

  Left BC on 27/04 (at beginning of climb, a traverse)

  Hired:  0
  Oxygen: Not taken, not used

  Route: North Face of Kangchung La; round trip from Kangchung La to the top by the NW Ridge, abseiled down to Kangchung La, thendown southwards from Kangchung La to Dragnag village.  

  Records: 1st traverse of the peak, 1st ascent of the North Face.

  Climbed by North Face to the saddle between KCHS and Kangchung Nup (or Cholo or Kangchung West/KCHN in HD), called Kangchung La. From there round trip to the top via the NW Ridge, already climbed by KCHS-843-01/KCHS-843-02 and KCHS-163-01*. Down from Kangchung La on the south side until Dragnag village.

  Route called "da’s heavenly travers", rated TD+, in the honour of the ex-chief of Czech Mountain Patrol in the Giant Mountains and Bánský's uncle, Adolf Kleps (12.9.1964-10.10.2017).

  Hak sick most of the trip, from Dole village on the way up. On return of the mountain, Hak contracted Covid.


expid: LHOT21101
peakid: LHOT
year: 2021
route1: W Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Sherpa Rope-Fixing
sponsor: Sherpa Rope-Fixing Lhotse 2021
smtdate: 2021-05-10
smttime: 1845
campsites: Smt(10/05)
routememo:
  A team of 6 Sherpas working for Seven Summit Treks summited at 6:45 pm fixing ropes to the top:

    Tenjing Sherpa (Makalu-1)
    Phurtenje Sherpa (Makalu-2)
    Ngima Tashi Sherpa (Thame-5)
    Fura Tshering Sherpa (Thame-5)
    Tenjing Gyaljen Sherpa (Phortse-4)
    Phurba Kusang Sherpa (Makalu-2)


expid: LHOT21105
peakid: LHOT
year: 2021
route1: S Col-W Face
nation: UK
leaders: Kenton Cool
sponsor: Kenton Cool Adventures Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2021
countries: Iceland
approach: Lukla->Namche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2021-04-17
smtdate: 2021-05-12
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2021-05-14
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-211-05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
primid: EVER21105
campsites:
  BC(17/04,5350m),C1(21/04,6000m),C2(22/04,6400m),C3(09/05,7100m),C4(10/05,7950m),EVER.Smt(11/05),LHOT.Smt(12/05)

routememo:
  Cool and Dorje Gyalzen Sherpa left C4 at 22:45 on 10 May, summited Everest at 6 am on 11 May, stayed 30 minutes, then descended to C4 arriving at 10 am. No wind, good conditions underfoot.

  Cool and Dorje Gyalzen Sherpa left C4 at 5:30 am on 11 May, summited Lhotse at 11 am on 12 May, stayed 15 minutes, ten descended tol C2. No wind, good conditions.

  Ardavan Farmanfarmanian reached 7000m on 24 April, then abandoned expedition due to ill health.

  Oxygen: From C3 to smt to 8000m.


  Heimir Hallgrimsson and Sigurdur Sveinsson were Kaitu Expedition clients on the Himalayan Guides permit.


expid: LHOT21106
peakid: LHOT
year: 2021
route1: S Col-W Face
nation: UK
leaders: Jon Gupta
sponsor: Jon Gupta Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2021
approach: Lukla->Namche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2021-04-15
smtdate: 2021-05-12
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2021-05-15
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-211-06)
agency: Himalayan Guides
primid: EVER21106
campsites:
  BC(15/04,5350m),C1(19/04,6100m),C2(20/06,6500m),C3(09/05,7100m),C4(10/05,7950m),EVER.Smt(11/05),LHOT.Smt(12/05)

routememo:
  Gupta, Ferry and two Sherpas left C4 at 22:45 on 10 May, summited Everest at 8:30 am on 11 May, stayed 45 minutes, then descended to C4 arriving at 1 pm. Good conditions, no clouds, light breeze.

  Gupta, Ferry and two Sherpas left C4 at 6 am 11 May, summited Lhotse at 1 pm, stayed 30 minutes, then descended to C2 at 6500m. A little windy in the couloir, but otherwise all normal. A bit cloudy/snowy/windy on descent.

  Oxygen:
     From C2 to smt to 7000m for members
     From C3 to smt to C3 for Sherpas

  Tim Mosedale summited both Everest and Lhotse with this team.


expid: LHOT21107
peakid: LHOT
year: 2021
route1: S Col-W Face
nation: Brazil
leaders: Carlos Santalena
sponsor: Himalayan Ascent Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2021
bcdate: 2021-04-17
smtdate: 2021-05-23
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2021-05-29
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-211-40)
campsites: BC(17/04,5350m),C1(25/95,6100m),C2(04/05,6350m),C3(06/05,7200m),C4(22/05,7950m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Himalayan Ascent
primid: EVER21140
routememo:
  Santalena summited Everest from the S Col. The original plans was for him to climb with Luis Alex Cruz after Cruz summited Everest, but Cruz abandoned the Lhotse attempt after eye frostbite suffered on the Everest attempt.


expid: LHOT21109
peakid: LHOT
year: 2021
route1: W Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Chatur Tamang
sponsor: ChaTours Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2021
countries: India, Israel
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2021-04-20
smtdate: 2021-05-23
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2021-06-03
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-211-50)
campsites: BC(20/04,5350m),C1(26/04,6000m),C2(27.04,6400m),C3(21/05,7300m),C4(22/05,7800m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Chatours Treks (Satori Adventures pmt)
primid: EVER21150
routememo:
  BC  20/04  5350m
  C1  26/04  6000m
  C2  27/04  6400m
  C3  21/05  7300m
  C4  22/05  7800m
  Smt 23/05  by Tatiana Abramson, Naina Singh Dhakad, Pasang Tshering Sherpa and 
             Chatur Kumar Tamang at 8:30 am.

  Team summited at 8:30 am, stayed 1 hour, then descended to C2.

  Oxygen: Used from C2 to summit to C2.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Tshering Sherpa, Namche-7
    Chatur Kumar Tamang, Kanku-4


expid: LHOT21116
peakid: LHOT
year: 2021
route1: S Col-W Face
nation: France
leaders: Jonathan Lamy
sponsor: Glacier Himalayan International Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2021
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2021-04-15
smtdate: 2021-05-24
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2021-05-28
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-211-36)
agency: Glacier Himalaya Treks (Expedition Himalaya pmt)
primid: EVER21136
campsites:
  BC(15/04,5300m,C1(26/04,6050m),C2(27/04,6500m),C3(19/05,7300m),C4(21/05,7925m),EVER.Smt(23/05),LHOT.Smt(24/05)

routememo:
  French Team report from Lamy:

  French team to Lobuche East on 20 Apr for acclimatization.
  29 Apr touched C3 and back to C2 for sleeping; next day to BC.
  Stayed to Namche Bazar to recover for a while, back to BC on the 10 May.

  Lamy summit assault schedule:

  16-18 May: at C2 waiting for the summit window
  19 May:    at C3
  21-23 May: at C4
  23 May:    left C4 at 10:20 pm on 22 May, summited at 6:50 am n 23 May, stayed 
             there 2:10, then back to C4 at 12:30 pm. Up in 8:30 hrs, 
             down in 3:30 hrs (12h day/effort).
  24 May:    left C4 at 9 am, summit of Lhotse at 4 pm, back to C2 at 10:30 pm
             (14h day/effort).
  25 May:    back to BC.

  Lamy is the 2nd French to make Everest-Lhotse after Elisabeth Revol. Climbed with Da Dendi Sherpa.

  Jonathan Kubler: same dates than Lamy. On Everest, started at 9:20 pm, summited at 7:30 am; on Lhotse summited at 4:30 pm.

  Michel Viso: Acclimatization up to C3, his high point. Abandoned the expedition because of contracted Covid (was heli-rescued).

  Oxygen: Used from C3 to summit to C3.

  Hired:
    Da Dendi (Da Tendi) Sherpa
    Basanta Tamang
    Sange Sherpa
    Ang Gelu Sherpa
    Da Lakpa Sherpa


expid: LHOT21117
peakid: LHOT
year: 2021
route1: W Face
route2: S Col-W Face
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Valentyn Sypavin
sponsor: Alpomania Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2021
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2021-04-25
smtdate: 2021-05-23
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2021-05-27
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-211-20)
agency: Pioneer Adventure (Expedition Himalaya pmt)
primid: EVER21120
campsites:
  BC(25/04,5350m),C1(29/04,6000m),C2(30/04,6500m),C3(13/05,7134m),C4(14/04,7950m),EVER.Smt(23/05),LHOT.Smt(23-24/05)


expid: LHOT21118
peakid: LHOT
year: 2021
route1: W Face
nation: Taiwan
leaders: Tseng K-Erh (Grace)
sponsor: "Speed Ascent of Everest" Expedition 2021
bcdate: 2021-04-23
smtdate: 2021-05-23
smttime: 0750
termdate: 2021-05-29
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-211-38)
campsites: BC(23/04,5350m),C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(23/05)
agency: Dreamers Destination Treks (Expedition Himalaya pmt)
primid: EVER21138
routememo:
  From Dreamers Destination:

  The team leader Miss Grace Tseng Ko (Taiwan) has climbed Everest and Lhotse on May 12 and May 23 simultaneously, one step closer to 14’ 8000ers.


expid: LHOT21119
peakid: LHOT
year: 2021
route1: W Face
nation: India
leaders: Shivangi Pathak
sponsor: 8K Expeditions Lhotse Expedition 2021
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2021-04-16
smtdate: 2021-05-17
termdate: 2021-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to exhaustion (via covid infection)
campsites: BC(16/04,5350m),C1(17/05,6100m),xxx
agency: 8K Expeditions (Expedition Himalaya pmt)
routememo:
  Shortly after arriving at base camp Shivangi and her Sherpa got infected with Covid-19. She was flown to Civic hospital in Kathmandu where she underwent treatment for 3 days. Afterwards she spent 14 days in isolation in her hotel in Kathmandu.

  After her recovery she flew back to base camp and reached her highpoint at 6100m. But she felt too weak to continue and decided to abandon the climb.


expid: LHOT21120
peakid: LHOT
year: 2021
route1: W Face
nation: France
leaders: Mehdi Van Haver
sponsor: French Lhotse Expedition 2021
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2021-04-21
smtdate: 2021-05-10
termdate: 2021-05-16
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to altercation with his Sherpa
campsites: BC(21/04,5300m),C2(27/04,6400m),C3(09/05,7200m),xxx(10/05,7500m)
agency: Himalayan Shepherd (Expedition Himalaya pmt)
routememo:
  Van Haver intended to climb Lhotse without oxygen and a minimum of assistance. He had taken a light paraglider with him in case of an opportunity would have occurred to fly from the saddle down to the top. Knowing it was too hard to take off alone, he vaguely planned to ask his Sherpa and others to help if the day would ever happen. Eventually the paraglider came up maximum to C2 and Van Haver never flew with it. First of all, Van Haver was here to try Lhotse without oxygen.

  Van Haver had hired Pemba Dorje Sherpa (speed climber), who was informed about his flying idea from the beginning of the expedition. Despite that both Pemba Dorje and Van Haver knew it wasn't authorized to fly, Pemba Dorje wasn't vindicative or frontally forbidding it either (“we will see”). Pemba Dorje came back to BC from his successful Everest summit (12 May) on the 14 May. During this evening, a dispute occurred, when at some stage Van Haver said he didn't need Sherpa assistance until C4 (he was in fact climbing on his own since the beginning of the expedition, so far up to 7500m). A few similarly originated little frictions had already occured before, maybe worsened by Pemba Dorje's rough English knowledge. For instance when Van Haver wanted to walk up to C2 alone, Pemba Dorje had told him the camp was provided with food: when Van Haver arrived up there there actually wasn't any.

  Whatever the exact origin of the dispute, on the day after it occured (15 May), Pemba Dorje called the liaison officer, revealing the paragliding “plan”. Pemba Dorje and other Sherpas came in front of the Van Haver tent, shouting and agressively threatening him sometimes with rocks (equivalent to the “Everest fight” of Simone Moro with the Sherpas). Then the army came and took his passport. Ministry police contacted him, asking him to come back to KTM with a 6:30 am helicopter flight on the next day. Nims Dai and Dawa Sherpa tried to intervene in his favour in vain.

  Van Haver left BC on 16 May by foot, reaching Namche Bazar on that day. On 17 May he reached Lukla, where he got blocked 2 days (18-19 May 18), eventually reaching KTM on 20 May.

  Van Haver came to the Tourism Police, which gave him back his Passport. Since he hadn't done anything wrong (nor actually flew from anywhere), the police told him he wouldn't be banished from Nepal nor had to pay any penalty, but he was advised not to go back to BC this time. Anyway from now his schedule was getting too narrow: he would have needed to come back to BC, re-acclimatize and hire a new Sherpa in order to be able to try the next summit window. And mostly the game was not anymore a happy one in such context.

  Van Haver waited for his gear (Camera, Go-Pro, fur sleeping back, tent, etc., about 8000 Euros in total) to be brought back down from C2 and C3.

  Van Haver was disappointed by the human behaviour rather than not having tried for the summit. He was stunned by the mountain beauty, but also amazed by the Disneyland atmosphere reigning on the normal route, where “ordinary people act as if they were extraordinary people”.


expid: LHOT21121
peakid: LHOT
year: 2021
route1: W Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Johannes Siebert
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks International Lhotse Expedition 2021
countries: Austria, India, Ireland, Nepal, Romania, Russia, S Korea, Singapore, Ukraine, USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->BC
smtdate: 2021-05-23
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(23/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
primid: EVER21125
routememo:
  The Seven Summit Treks Everest expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-4 climbers each). Seven Summit Treks provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Adrian Laza (Romania)

  Camps: BC(15/05,5350m),C2(20/05,6400m),C3(22/05,7200m),Smt(23/05)
  Left:  25/05/21 by heli
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Summited 23/05 at 8:30 am by Laza and Tenzing Sherpa.

  Left Ktmdu on 13 May and arrived at BC by heli on 15 May after spending one night in Lukla due to bad weather. Summit team left C4 on 22 May at 8 pm, summited at 8:30 am, then descended to C2.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to summit to C3.


  Taras Pozdnii (Ukraine)
  Dmytro Semerenko (Ukraine)
  Pavlo Bezdienezhnykh (Ukraine)

  Camps: BC(21/04,5300m),C1(29/04,6100m),C2(30/04,6470m),C3(30/05,7100m),
           C4(31/05,7700m),xxx(01/06)
  Left:  03/06/21
  Hired: 3
  Term:  Abandoned at 8050m due to too much snow.

  Pozdnii, Bezdienezhnykh and Semerenko climbed to 8050m on 01/06, then stopped due to too much snow in the Lhotse couloir and avalanche danger.

  Oxygen: Used from C3 to highpoint to C3.


  Khoo Swee Chiow (Singapore)

  Camps: BC(01/05,5350m),C1(04/05,6060m),C2(05/05,6500m),C3(30/05,7070m),
           C4(31/05,7700m),xxx(01/06,8020m)
  Left:  03/06/21 
  Hired: 1 (Chhepal Sherpa)
  Term:  Abandoned at 8020m due to too much snow and buried rope.

  Oxygen: Used


expid: LHOT21122
peakid: LHOT
year: 2021
route1: W Face
nation: India
leaders: Aparna Kumar
sponsor: Indian CAPF’s Everest and Lhotse Expedition 2021
smtdate: 2021-05-23
smttime: 0630
othersmts: Attempted Everest (EVER-211-27), summited Pumori (PUMO-211-01)
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(23/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
primid: EVER21127
routememo:
  CAPF = Central Armed Police Forces

  Seven Summit Treks FB Page - 23 May

  Congratulations to the team members of “CAPF’s Everest Lhotse Expedition 2021” for successful ascent of Mt. Lhotse (8516m) this morning, between 6:30 to 9:30 am.

  Summiteers:
  1. Ratan Singh Sonal
  2. Sumit Somra
  3. Suresh Chhetri
  4. Nima Sherpa Sankhuwasabha
  5. Pastemba Sherpa Sankhuwasabha
  6. Lakpa Sherpa Sankhuwasabha
  7. Ming Tenzi Sherpa Sankhuwasabha


expid: LOBE94301
peakid: LOBE
year: 1994
route1: E Face
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Francois Hagenmuller
sponsor: French Lobuche and Kwangde Expedition 1994
smtdate: 1994-10-19
campsites: Biv1(16/10),Biv2(17/10),Biv3(18/10),Smt(19/10)
routememo:
  The expedition called “Jeunes Alpinistes de Haut Niveau” was funded by FFME (Federation Francaise de Montagne et d'Escalade) and was the final session of youngsters training course. It was coached by J-F Hagenmuller. The expedition aimed for 2 goals: open 1 or 2 new rock routes on the East Face of Lobuche East, then 1 or 2 ice routes on the North Face of Kwangde.

  On Lobuche East, 2 teams tried 2 distinct lines:

  1: On 14 and 15 October 1994, Mallon, Ravanat and Hagenmuller tried the future “Two Arrows Flight” (Ukrainians likely found the remnant of their attempt in 2014, LOBE-141-01), but had to abandon after 2 days of climbing because of serious repeated rock falls.

  2: From 14 to 19 October 1994, Thinieres, Robert and Mercier opened a new modern line right at the core of the East Face. Trio started in the vicinity of “Ave Maria” then straight up into the most compact rock area of the middle of the face, right to “Ave Maria” and Korean route which it crosses in the higher part. Team found excellent rock, very sculpted, allowing to climb with a maximum of removable protections (5 spits left in the face). In the upper part, team had however to contour a 100m high rotten schist band by the left (when Koreans went up by the right at that stage), traversing until it reached the corniced ridge leading to the fore-summit of Lobuche East.

  Route is called “The Golden Friends” (hommage to Thinieres who passed away in 2004): 900m (last 100m in snow to reach the summit ridge), rock French 6c+ obligatory /7a maximum. 

  Preparation on 14 and 15 of October; climb from 16 to 19 of October with 3 nights on portaledge in the face. Robert considers it afterwards as “a modern route offering a very pleasant climb, rather committed, with a perfect view on Everest and Nuptse.”

  After Lobuche, team would face dry conditions on the Kwangde North Face (dates unknown).

  Hagenmuller, Mallon and Robert tried for the Lowe-Swenson pillar (1989) on Kwangde Nup, aiming for the direct exit (Doublebsky-Lienerth, 2001). On second day of their attempt, at the middle of the pillar, a rock fall cut down their double rope into a single one. After numerous 30m abseils, could exit out of the face.

  Thinières, Ravanat and Mercier attempted a steep ice line in the face down to Kwangde Lho, attacking between Breashears-Lowe route (1982) and “Mandala” (Lorenzo-Munoz, 1985). Without much ice but just snow on the rock, they had a few frightening pitches without reliable protections before abandoning the climb.


expid: MAKA21101
peakid: MAKA
year: 2021
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Georgia
leaders: Archil Badriashvili
sponsor: Satori Makalu Expedition 2021
countries: France, India, Iran, USA
approach: By Jeep to Num, then classic Barun Valley trek
bcdate: 2021-04-15
smtdate: 2021-05-24
termdate: 2021-06-02
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to bad weather
othersmts: BADRIASHVILI ARCHIL
campsites: BC(15/04,5700m),C1(20/04,6560m),C2(07/05,7450m),xxx(24/05,7800m)
agency: Satori Adventures
routememo:
  Report from Badriashvili and Tepnadze:

  Approach: By Jeep to Num, then classic Barun Valley trek.

  BC  15/04  5700m (usual ABC)
  C1  20/04  6560m (usual C2, skipped C1, as most people did btw)
  C2  07/05  7450m (usual C3) at Makalu La
  HPt 24/05  7800m (above ususal C4 by Badriashvili and Tepnadze).

  Fixed rope: 700m by themselves, in total. Fixed 500m to 600m until C1, including circa 200m at an ice wall at 6300m halfway to C1 (on 17/04). Fixed 1 roll of Korean ropes (200m) above C1, plus refixed old ropes also between C1 and C2.

  Climb abandoned on 25/05 due to bad weather conditions.

  Left BC on 26/05.

  Members at end: Badriashvili and Tepnadze.

  Sherpas above BC: 0
  Oxygen: not taken, not used

  After 7 days of quarantine, it happened that the flight to Tumlingtar was postponed. So took instead a jeep, starting 24-hour non-stop travel to Num.

  Were the first climbers to arrive on the mountain's normal route, so begun to equip the route themselves, fixing ropes in the hard parts (steep or too crevassy). Sherpa team (cleaning expedition) fixed from 7050m to Makalu La. Between C3 and C4, Sherpas also fixed a little bit...Georgians stayed in total more than 40 days on the mountain.

  Georgian attempt started on May 23rd in the evening at 11 pm from C2, and ended at about 3 am on May 24th. The weather forescast was announced very bad from the morning, so tried to go to the top ASAP, pushed by the weather forecast. Other teams had started 1 or 2 hours before. The duet met the latter going back down, retreating, but they continued in very bad weather, with no visibility in the night, just breaking trail. Found C4 place, then the big slope which leaves to the “French Couloir”. But at some point, they understood to have been slightly too much to the right. In fact they just couldn't see the way because of the weather. The slope was also becoming avalanche prone. So they decided to turn around, it was too dangerous to continue as they couldn't see the route anyway ("everything is different from Makalu La plateau up there; it's long, big distances"). They were at circa 7800m, as confirmed by the GPS and satellite phone, in the glacier section. Went back to C2 at sunrise in strong snow, between 5 and 6 am, then straight to BC on the same day.

  It was the first and last attempt for the summit in the season before the monsoon's arrival. The teams starting a day after them also went down. Some other people stayed, some other even arrived later. But for the latter, there would have been too much snow; even if with good weather, they couldn't have gone up. In such conditions, they decided the expedition was over on the 25th.

  It was their second experience on a classic route of an 8000er, this time with many more people on the route, but eventually “not in our taste”. “With many other people around, we could take and share a lot of ideas one one hand, but on the other mostly learned to be more independent and eventually rely on ourselves. Despite the concentration of people on the peak, we couldn't in fact achieve something all together”.


  Report from Catherine Vulliez:

  Approach: By Jeep to Num, trekked to BC, then ABC

  BC(20/04,4800m),ABC(21/04,5690m),C1(26/04,6150m),C2(01/05,6600m),
     C3(23/05,7400m),xxx

  Vulliez abandoned expedition after too much snow from two cyclones.

  Left BC: 02/06

  Oxygen: Used from 7000m up and down until C2 (6600m).

  Hired:  Nuru Wangchu Sherpa


  Report from Alireza Behpour:

  Approach: By Jeep to Num, trekked to BC

  BC(23/04,5700m),C1(30/04,6100m),C2(01/05,6550m),C3(23/05,7430m),xxx(24/05,7700m)

  High point reached by Alireza Behpour, Morteza Ramezani, Chebi Bhote and Tashi Chhumbel Sherpa on 24 May, then abandoned due to unexpected bad weather and lack of fixed rope.

  "Unstable weather in all time that finally with heavy snow fall up to 120cm made us termiate our expedition. Also it was not clear who was responsible for fixing rope to summit. Some of the personal Sherpas of the members refused to participate in fixing the route. But overall it was a god experience and very beautiful mountain."

  Oxygen: From C3 to 7700m

  Left BC on 2 June.


  Garrett Madison and Chase Merriam went to Makalu BC in early June, but left without climbing due to deep snow. Here Sherpa only went up to C2.


expid: MAKA21102
peakid: MAKA
year: 2021
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Felix Berg
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks International Makalu Expedition 2021
countries: Austria, Canada, Chile, Czech Republic, Greece, S Korea, Turkey, USA
approach: By Jeep to Num, trekked from Num
bcdate: 2021-04-15
smtdate: 2021-05-24
termdate: 2021-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to bad weather
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Report from Peter Hamel:

  Approach: By Jeep to Num, trekked from Num

  BC(15/04,4850m),ABC(18/04,5700m),C1(25/04,6400m),C2(26/04,6600m),
    C3(22/05,7400m),xxx(24/05,7600m)

  Abandoned at 7600m due to high wind, blowing snow, low visibility on summit attempt. Didn't try another summit push because of incoming cyclone.

  15-20 climbers gathered at C3 for a summit push, but some never left tents, worried about the weather forecast.

  Hamel started climbing maybe 9 or 10 pm on May 23rd. The weather started clear, but snow started a couple hours later. A few Sherpas were leading the way, with the intent of fixing the route. They turned around first. Allegedly this was prior to the snow starting, and happened because they "heard a noise".

  The German team turned around after weather deteriorated, and Hamel descended with them. 2 Georgians and 1 Czech climber continued a bit higher in bad weather, to maybe 7800m, but they eventually gave up as well.

  Oxygen: Hamel planned this trip as an O2 free ascent, but got psyched out by the bad weather window, thought it might be too windy to stay warm without it.

  A Canadian climber with 7 summits left the trip a week earlier. He left his O2 at C3 and offered it for him for use. He carried 2 of his bottles for the summit push, started using it at C3. He turned it off when they turned around (7600m?) and  descended without (it wasn't really useful). Then he breathed it for a few hours at camp that night.

  Rope-fixing: 2 Georgian climbers fixed sections up to ~7000m. Nepalese army team fixed to 7400m.

  Left BC on 26/05.


  Report from Robert Weistreicher: (Berg, Guggemos, Troeger, Westreicher)

  Approach: Lukla->Zatra La->Mera Peak->Baruntse->Sherpani Col->Makalu BC

  BC(11/05,4600m),ABC(16/05,5700m),C1(18/05,6500m),C2(24/05,7450m),xxx(24/05,76000m)

  Abandoned at 7600m due to bad weather, and Sherpas not strong enough. All members reached 7600m.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used

  Left BC on 26/05.


  Report from Lukas Jasenky website:

  Approach: By Jeep to Num, trekked from Num

  ABC(18/04,5700m),C1(6300m),C2(6600m),C3(7450m),xxx(24/05,7600m)

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used

  Hired: None

  We arrived at the camp after nine days of trekking on April 18th. Stable weather in the second half of April made it possible to start a good acclimatization. Without sherpa and without oxygen, I had to rely only on myself. To see if it can withstand body and head. The very stay at this height pleasantly surprised me. My body got used to it quickly and I felt at home without any problems. No headache, excellent pulse and saturation. The acclimatization itself was carried out in the same spirit. Twice to C1. Then C1 (6300) and C2 (just over 6600) with the delivery of a fixed rope to 6800. Stopped by a maze of cracks.

  The first window for the summit appeared on the first days of May. However, the acclimatization was not completed. After a few days of rest, the boys and I went upstairs again. In C2 I always left only a tent, gas, stove and mat. With everything else always up. The weather began to turn. Zero visibility allowed us to ascend only to 6800 meters. Subsequently, the days of bad weather showed a short window around May 11-12. A couple of us went upstairs, and another change came in the form of wind and snow. Lastly, we turn with bitterness and head back to BC. Bad weather is gaining momentum. We decided to descend to the lower Makalu BC for a few days. We return to the top just in time. Rested and full of strength. Another very short window appeared at 21. But as it quickly turned out, the next morning it was after him. He struck the first cyclone.

  After weeks of waiting, we are frustrated, but our prayers have been answered. The weather window shows for summit day 24. It's 50 to 50. Let's get to it. The first day in C2 took me 4 hours. The other two kick the platform and pitch a tent. Day two to C3 (7450 ??m) I experienced agony. I literally cried over my own grave at times with the heavy pig on my back. After 10.5 hours I'm in C3. Peter and I share a tent, but it's behind me somewhere. For another good hour and a half, I straighten the platform, pitch and mainly anchor the tent from the strong wind. After Peter arrives at night, we make water. In the morning we decide for a change. Rest in C3 and at night to the top. My head does not hurt, I breathe well and overall I feel good. Fatigue is normal. The joy of the top experiment is starting to spoil the weather again. The cyclone, which should not hit in full parade until around the 26th, is starting to show. During the day he comes from the right, let us run down from there. The psyche gets busy. The mass discussion in the early evening decided that the majority would go to the top soon. I leave the camp around 11 pm. Some are already on the road and out of sight. The weather is turning, the last I see is a string of lights heading for the top of Everest. I'm more calm. Nevertheless, the wind grows stronger, it snows and Makalu begins to shroud in thick clouds. Alone, I head to the top at a tempo of about 30 steps and 10 breaths. The only option is Alpine style. The weather is getting worse. I pass with those who have decided to turn around. Only the lights of two boys from Georgia in front of me. In zero visibility we lose at least this contact. At 7600 meters I am alone. Impenetrable clouds, zero visibility, strong winds and snow. Surrounded by darkness. Everything is frozen to me. It is necessary to keep a calm head and make a decision that is clear and very simple at that moment. I turn like everyone else. Mainly to hit C3, Dext's injection is now a good friend of mine, whom I guard against the cold. The wind takes an incredible amount of energy. But I'm back. A tent full of snow, all frozen and damp. Peter and I lie like two frozen sardines and a strong wind keeps pushing new snow inside. You can't sleep. We're just waiting for the sun. I'm still wondering what the guys. He finally returns at night. Sleepy night and morning mass flight down.


expid: MAKA21103
peakid: MAKA
year: 2021
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Jon Gupta
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Makalu Expedition 2021
approach: By heli from Ktm
bcdate: 2021-05-21
smtdate: 2021-05-23
termdate: 2021-06-01
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to too much snow
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-211-06)
campsites: ABC(21/05,5700m),C2(22/05,6500m),C3(23/05,7500m),xxx
agency: Himalayan Guides
primid: EVER21106
routememo:
  ABC 21/05  5700m (by heli from KTM)
  C2  22/05  6500m
  C3  23/05  7500m
  ABC 24/04  5700m

  High point was C3 on by Gupta, Ferry, Lhakpa Wongchu Sherpa, and Dorje Gylgen Sherpa (both from Pangboche).

  They abandoned due to too much snow and the inability of the Sherpa to fix the rope.

  Helicoptered back to KTM on 01/06.


expid: MANA21101
peakid: MANA
year: 2021
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Toshihiro Yokoi
sponsor: Friendship Manaslu Expedition Spring 2021
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to bad weather and lack of time.
campsites: BC,C1,C2(6300m),xxx
routememo:
  Abandoned at 6300m due to bad weather and lack of time (he was acclimatizing for Everest and Lhotse).


expid: PUMO21102
peakid: PUMO
year: 2021
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Tim Mosedale
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Pumori Expedition 2021
countries: Czech Republic, India
smtdate: 2021-05-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to waist-deep snow
campsites: BC,xxx(15/05,6900m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Tim Mosedale Report:

  Mosedale tried in one push from EBC because the weather was fabulous for the 15th and then it was going to crap out from 16th onwards. The Peak Promotion team had summited 10th and 12th, so I knew that the ropes were in. Unfortunately the storm that we had came down in off Lhotse had buried the ropes. I was trail breaking from the very start in ankle to knee-deep snow and by the end it was thigh to waist deep.

  I started up the evening of the 14th. I was alone and got to about 200m below the summit, then back to EBC. Went up in around 18 to 19 hours and down in around 5 (with a few stops along the way!).


expid: TUKU21101
peakid: TUKU
year: 2021
nation: Romania
leaders: Adrian Laza
sponsor: Romanian Tukuche Expedition
approach: Marpha->Yak Kharka
bcdate: 2021-04-07
smtdate: 2021-04-12
termdate: 2021-05-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6850m due to lack of time
campsites: BC(07/04,5200m),C1(09/04,5600m),C2(12/04,6200m),xxx(12/04,6850m); BC(27/04,5200m),xxx
agency: Mountain Cape Treks
routememo:
  Laza made two attempts on Tukuche, once before his Annapurna expedition, then again after Annapurna.

  On the first attempt, the Laza and two Sherpas (Pasang and Nurbu) fixed ropes up to 6850m. Then they ran out of time as Laza and Pasang went to Annapurna and Nurbu went to Dhaulagiri.

  Laza Report:

  After Annapurna summit I spent 5 days in Tatopani and left again for Tukuche. We got the same route Marpha, Yak Kharka, Tukuche base camp. Very deep snow and bad weather.

  We reached base camp April 27; we have a lot of equipment and only two porters. We spent 3 days trying to locate the ropes that we fixed prior Annapurna summit. There was about 1-1.2m of fresh snow and we found only few ropes. This time we carried only 200m of rope because the fixed ropes were up to 6850m, about 100m under the peak. We worked hard for three days, but we could locate all the ropes.

  We abandoned the peak and left for Daulagiri basecamp on May 1 via French Pass.


expid: AMAD21301
peakid: AMAD
year: 2021
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Macedonia
leaders: Lazo Minovski
sponsor: Snowy Horizon Ama Dablam Expedition 2021
countries: France, Oman, Portugal, Ukraine, USA
smtdate: 2021-10-17
campsites: Smt(17,23-24,29/10)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  Wiseman was a client of Adventure High Mountain.
  Rux was a client of Climbing the Seven Summits (TAGnepal).
  Catherine Vulliez was a client of Prestige Adventures.

  Report from Catherine Vulliez:

  BC  17/10  4600m
  C1         5700m
  C2  28/10  6000m
  Smt 29/10  by Vulliez and Nuru Wangchu at 9 am.

  Team set out from C2 on 29/10 at 2 am. No clouds, wind After C3 (6300m): 60km/h. Good snow after C3. Stayed 20 minutes, then descended to BC at 6:30 pm. Left BC on 30/10.


expid: AMAD21303
peakid: AMAD
year: 2021
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Jon Gupta
sponsor: Jon Gupta Ama Dablam Expedition 2021
approach: Lukia->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2021-10-26
smtdate: 2021-11-05
smttime: 0757
termdate: 2021-11-09
campsites: BC(26/10,4530m),ABC(30/10,5450m),C1(31/10,5800m),C2(07/11,6100m),C3(08/11,6400m),Smt(05,08/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Gupta’s speed ascent:

  Gupta left BC at 00:05 and reached the summit at 07:57 on 05/11. He reached BC at 11:56 am. 11 hrs 51 min in total.

  Left BC at 00:05 on 05/11
  Arrive C1 at 02:28, stay ~20 mins
  Arrive C2 at 03:49, Stay ~15 mins
  Arrive C3 at 05:21, stay ~20 mins
  Smt at 07:57, stay ~10 mins
  Back at C3 at 08:40, stop for ~5 mins
  Back at C2 at 09:28, stop for ~15 mins 
  Back at C1 at 10:20, stop for ~12 mins 
  Arrive BC 11:56 am

  Total time on the move up:

  BC to C1:  2 hrs 23 min
  C1 to C2:  1 hr 1 min
  C2 to C3:  1 hr 15 min
  C3 to Smt: 2 hrs 16 mins
  Total = 6 hrs 55 min
  Total to reach smt = 7 hrs 53 min

  Total time on the move down:

  Smt to C3: 33 mins
  C3  to C2: 43 mins
  C2  to C1: 37 mins
  C1  to BC: 1 hr 24 mins
  Total = 3 hrs 17 mins

  Total moving time = 10 hrs 12 mins
  Total time stationary = 1 hr 39 mins
  Total time taken = 11 hrs 51 mins

  BC   4530m
  C1   5800m
  C2   6100m
  Smt  05/11 at 7:57 am by Gupta.


  Second summit with client:

  BC  26/10  4530m
  ABC 30/10  5450m
  C1  31/10  5800m
  C2  07/11  6100m
  C3  08/11  6400m
  Smt 08/11  by Gupta, Roberts, Mingma Sherpa at 8 am.

  Team started summit push from C2, where they left at midnight. They stopped at C3 for one hour at 3:30 am. Carried on at 4:30 am. Weather was fine and not too windy. They stayed at the summit for about 45 mins, then descended to BC where they arrived at 7 pm.

  Oxygen: Taken, not used.

  Left BC on 09/11 by helicopter to Kathmandu.


expid: AMAD21304
peakid: AMAD
year: 2021
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Garrett Madison
sponsor: Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam Expedition 2021
countries: India
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2021-10-26
smtdate: 2021-11-08
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2021-11-10
campsites: BC(26/10,4530m),C1(29/10,5700m),C2(07/11,6100m),Smt(08/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  26/10  4530m
  C1  29/10  5700m
  C2  07/11  6100m
  Smt 08/11  by 5 members and 5 Sherpas at 8:30 am.

  Summit team left C2 at 1:30 am. Perfect day, good consolidated snow. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit.

  Madison, Shine and Hawes descended to C2 from where Hawes was helicoptered to Lukla due to breathing difficulties. He went to Lukla hospital where he received 7 liters of IV fluids. He spent one night at the hospital and went to Kathmandu the next day.

  Rest of the team descended to C1 after the summit. All back at BC on 09/11.

  Todd Ammerman reached C1 on 5700m. He left the expedition after the first rotation as he was not acclimatizing well.

  Oxygen: Taken and used by Eakes from C3 to top to C3.

  Left BC on 10/11.


expid: AMAD21305
peakid: AMAD
year: 2021
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Tim Mosedale
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Ama Dablam Expedition 2021
countries: Canada, Ireland, USA
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2021-11-06
smtdate: 2021-11-17
termdate: 2021-11-29
campsites: BC(06/11,4500m),ABC(10/11,5350m),C1(12/11,5800m),C2(16/11,6100m),Smt(17,27/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Report from Ronnie Legg (HG Guides Group II):

  BC(13/11,4650m),ABC(16/11,5100m),C1(19/11,5700m),C2(26/11,6000m),Smt(27/11)

  Summit team of Legg, Bradley and Phinjo Dorje Sherpa left C2 at 11:15 pm on 26 Nov, summited at 9:15 am on 27 Nov, stayed 10 minutes, then descended to C2 at 5 pm. -20 C degrees on leaving C2, light winds on the Mushroom Ridge. Paused for a short rest in tents of C3 on the way up, and for about 1:45 on the way down. Team left by heli from BC on 29 Nov.


expid: AMAD21306
peakid: AMAD
year: 2021
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Seven Summit Treks Staff
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks (SST) Ama Dablam Expedition 2021 (Team A)
smtdate: 2021-10-23
campsites: Smt(23,28/10,04,08-09,15/11)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
countries:
  Australia, Canada, Croatia, Denmark, Ecuador, France, India, Japan, Kuwait, Norway, Poland, Russia, UK, USA

routememo:
  Seven Summit Treks Ama Dablam expeditions were a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Seven Summits provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Omran Abdullah (Kuwait)

  Appr:  Lukla->Lobuche East->BC
  Camps: BC(30/10),C1(03/11,5800m),xxx(08/11,6200m)
  Left:  09/11 by heli
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned on 08/11 due to physical unwellness (headache, body shaking).

  Abdullah and Gesman Tamang started from C2 at noon, had planned to sleep at C3. Turned around due to headache at 1:30 pm. Down to BC at 9 pm. 

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


  Larry Daugherty (USA)
  David Snow (USA)
  Damaon Tedford (Canada)
  Cecil Groetken (USA)

  Appr:  Lukla->Lobuche East->BC
  Camps: BC(29/10),C1(31/10,5800m),C2(03/11),Smt(04/11)
  Left:  05/11
  Hired: 4
  Term:  Success

  Summit team of David Snow, Damon Tedford, Larry Daugherty, Temba Bhote, Ang Geli and Tashi Gyaljen left high camp at 11 pm on 3 Nov and summited at 9 am on 4 Nov. Stayed 40 minutes, then returnd to C1 at 5 pm. Windy on summit day and cold.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


expid: AMAD21308
peakid: AMAD
year: 2021
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Emrik Favre
sponsor: Italian Tengkangpoche-Ama Dablam Expedition 2021
approach: From Tengkangpoche
bcdate: 2021-11-09
smtdate: 2021-11-11
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2021-11-12
othersmts: Summited Tengkangpoche (TKPO-213-02), attempted Tengi Ragi Tau South (TENS-213-01)
campsites: BC(09/11),C2(10/11,6000m),Smt(11/11)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
primid: TKPO21302
routememo:
  BC  09/11
  C2  10/11  6000m (only Bovard, Perruquet)
  Smt 11/11  by all members.

  Cazzanelli and Favre from BC to summit in one push. Cazzanelli started at BC on 11/11 at 6:30 am, on the summit at 1 pm. Favre started at 3:30 am, on the summit at 11 am.

  Perruquet and Bovard started from C2 at 7 am, on the summit at 11:30 am.

  Cazzanelli and Perruquet back to BC at 5 pm, Bovard and Favre at 6 pm. Left BC on 12/11.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


  Speed Ascent Report from Cazzanelli:

  Cazanelli started at 6:30 am from a specific “solid point” of the base camp (a stone grave, as he had chosen in Manaslu BC) at 4567m. From there:

  In 1:00 to Yak Camp
  In 1:50' to C1
  In 2:50' to C2
  In 3:50' to C3 (stopped 15 to 20m at C3, a stop included in total time)
  In 5:32'8'' from BC to the top

  Only Russell Brice in 1995 and Jorge Egocheaga in 2011 had reached similar climb rate standards in the past (respectively 3:20' from 5200m to the top; 5:28' from 4900m to the top). Cazzanelli considers his BC to C1 not to be a good time, since he started with too many clothes (feared to be cold, so had taken too much clothing, was “mouillé de chaud”).

  On the opposite his descent time from summit to C3 was very fast: 18 min. After the 4:30 long stop at C3 for the rescue, needed 2:17' from C3 to BC. His total descent absolute time is 2:34'52'' (not counting as a proper speed descent record).

  Favre started at 3:30 am from the same place in base camp, needing 7:30 for his speed ascent from BC to summit.

  Bovard and Perruquet reached the top 15 min before Favre (both stayed for a while on top, then started to descend before the arrival of Favre and Cazzanelli). Cazzanelli reached the top 1 hour after Favre, staying maximum 10 min on top.

  On descent, the Italians (All 4?) helped Mingma David Sherpa team (Nims Dai) with the rescue of an Iranian female climber. The latter showing signs of a full edema, couldn't walk, sleeping all time. Put her on a maximum oxygen flow for 1 hour, then she was feeling a bit better. As a mountain guide and rescuer himself, Cazzanelli felt shocked by the Sherpas' behaviour, lacking of professionalism and responsibility: as himself was spending money in satellite phone calls, Sherpas were laughing. In KTM, Cazzanelli even had troubles with the Iranian climber's lawyer, regarding pictures he had published on Facebook regarding the rescue. In total, the Italians stayed 4:30 at C3 for help in this rescue.


expid: AMAD21310
peakid: AMAD
year: 2021
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Tshering Palden Bhote
sponsor: Top Himalaya Guides (THG) Ama Dablam Expedition 2021
countries: Finland, Germany, India, Lithuania, USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Gokyo->Cho La->Kalapattar->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2021-10-29
smtdate: 2021-11-02
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2021-11-13
campsites: BC(29/10,4700m),C1(5800m),C2(6000m+),Smt(02,11,13/11)
agency: Top Himalaya Guides
routememo:
  Report from Annilina Vanhatalo:

  Approach: Phakding, Namche, Dole, Machhermo, Gokyo, Thangka, Chola La, Zongla, Lobuche, Gorakschep, Everest BC, Lobuche, Lobuche HC, Pangboche. 

  BC  07/11  7000m+
  C1  11/11  5800m
  C2  12/11  6000m+
  Smt 11/11  by Gunnarsson with Sonam Lama
  Smt 13/11  by Vanhatalo, Dorchi Wangdak, Chhiring Bhote

  Fixed rope: 600m from C1 to summit with intervals. 

  Vanhatalo left C2 at 11:30 pm on 12 Nov, reached summit at 10:55 am on 13 Nov. They stayed on summit for about 20 minutes, then back to C2 around 4:30 pm. Next day 14 Nov went down to BC. Left BC on 15 Nov.

  Records: youngest and first female from Finland.

  Other peaks: Lobuche East on 6 Oct by Vanhatalo, Dorchi Wangdak.

  Dorchi Wangdak Bhote, 101018/63, 11/12/1990=25/08/2047.
    Bhotkhola, Hatiya-3, (old) New Hungjung, Sankhuwasabha.

  Chhiring Bhote, 101018/307, 02/10/2051, Bhotkhola 3, Hungjung, Sankhuwasabha   
    AMAD 2019 HG Rope-fixing team, EVER 2019, 2021 Madisson team HG.

  Note: Vanhatalo is part of the expedition climbing separately.


  Report from Stefan Koehler:

  Approach: via Dingboche

  BC  29/10  4600m
  C1  31/10  5800m
  C2  01/11  6100m
  Smt 02/11  by Koehler, Rinjin Bhote

  Started for summit from C2 at 12:45 am, on summit at 9:30 am. 

  Koehler long-line evacuated from C2 on 03/11 at 9 am by heli to Lukla, then airplane to KTM. Rinjin Bhote back to KTM after 3-4 days.

  Frostbite on 3 fingers on right hand, grade 2-3. Frostbite happened on descent between C3 and C2. Strong gusts of wind, more than forecasted.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

  Other peaks: Nirekha Peak, Lobuche Peak, Island Peak.

  Hired:
    Rijing Bhote (S)


expid: AMAD21311
peakid: AMAD
year: 2021
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Chad Peele
sponsor: Alpenglow Ama Dablam Rapid Ascent Expedition 2021
countries: Ecuador, Germany, UK
approach: Namche by heli, trekked via Phortse to BC
bcdate: 2021-10-28
smtdate: 2021-11-04
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2021-11-05
campsites: BC(28/10,4575m),C1(01/11,5760m),C2.5(03/11,6340m),Smt(04/11)
agency: Himalaya Vision
routememo:
  Summit team left high camp at 5 am on 4 Nov, summited at 9 am, stayed 1 hour, then descended to C2.5. Conditions were extremely cold with high winds.


expid: AMAD21312
peakid: AMAD
year: 2021
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Ecuador
leaders: Topo Mena
sponsor: Ecuadorian Ama Dablam Expedition 2021
bcdate: 2021-10-28
smtdate: 2021-11-04
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2021-11-05
campsites: BC(28/10,4700m),Smt(04/11)
agency: Himalaya Vision
routememo:
  Mena and Perez left BC on 4 Nov at 5 am, summited at 13:30 pm, stayed 30 minutes, then descended to BC at 16:00.

  9-hour ascent from BC, including 1 hour wait in C2.5.


expid: AMAD21313
peakid: AMAD
year: 2021
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Urs Hefti
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Ama Dablam Expedition 2021
smtdate: 2021-11-12
smttime: 0900
campsites: BC,C1,C2,Smt(12/11)
agency: Himalaya Vision
routememo:
  Report from Schneider and Salzmann:

  BC  11/10  4530m (stayed at Ama Dablam BC lodge)
  C1	14/10  5800m
  C2  15/10  6100m
  HPt 15/10  6100m by Schneider, Salzmann, Pasang.

  First summit push on 14/10, however, the fixed ropes ended about halfway up the Great Couloirs. Team descended to BC on 15/10 and waited for the weather. There was a snowy period. Second summit push started on 20/10 reached C1 and descended the following day. Abandoned climb due to too  much snow.

  Registered on Himalayan Guides permit.


  Report from Urs Hefti:

  BC  09/11  4530m
  C1  10/11  5600m
  C2  11/11  5980m
  Smt 12/11  by Hefti, Raillard, Palden Sherpa at 9 am.

  Summit team left C2 at 1 am and ascended to C3, where they arrived at 3 am. They slept for 2 hours there and continued towards the summit at 5 am. Good conditions. They spent about 15 minutes on the summit. Descended to BC where they arrived at 7 pm.

  Left BC on 14/11 by helicopter from BC to Ktmdu.


expid: AMAD21314
peakid: AMAD
year: 2021
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: SummitClimb Ama Dablam Expedition 2021
approach: Lukla->Namche-Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2021-11-07
smtdate: 2021-11-12
smttime: 0830
campsites: BC(07/11,4600m),ABC(10/11,5430m),C1(11/11,5700m),C2(6100m),Smt(12-13,16,23/11,03/12)
agency: Everest Parivar
countries:
  Australia, Belgium, Germany, Iran, Israel, Italy, Poland, Russia, S Africa, Slovakia, Switzerland, UK


expid: AMAD21316
peakid: AMAD
year: 2021
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Nirmal Purja
sponsor: Elite Exped Ama Dablam Expedition 2021
countries: Bulgaria, Canada, Iran, Poland, Qatar, Sweden, UK, USA
smtdate: 2021-11-08
campsites: BC,C1,C2,Smt(08,11-12/11)
agency: Elite Exped
routememo:
  Report from Steve Davis:

  When did you leave C2 for the summit?
    11 Nov at around 12:30 am (local time)
  What date and time did you summit?
    11 Nov at 8:00 am (local time)
  Name of your Sherpa:
    Mingma David Sherpa
  Which camp did you return after the summit?
    C2 on 11 Nov and Base Camp on 12 Nov on foot
  When did you leave BC and did you walk or take a helicopter?
    Helicopter to KTM on 12 Nov


expid: AMAD21318
peakid: AMAD
year: 2021
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Roland Striemitzer
sponsor: Furtenbach Adventures Ama Dablam Flash Expedition 2021
countries: Germany
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 2021-10-23
smtdate: 2021-10-28
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2021-10-29
campsites: BC(23/10,4600m),C1(25/10,5800m),Smt(28/10)
agency: Iceland Trekking (Satori Adventures pmt)
routememo:
  BC  23/10  4600m
  C1  25/10  5800m
  C2         Passed on summit push date
  Smt 28/10  by Striemitzer and Siebler at 8 am.

  Striemitzer and Siebler started summit push from C1 on the 27 Oct at 10:45 pm. No wind until C3, then really windy and cold. It was Ok, but really cold. On return rested for 1 hr at C1. Packed up and left and back to BC on on 28 Oct at 4 pm.

  Eduard and Melissa Wagner started 1 hr later for summit push. High point C2 6000m, due to Melissa's altitude sickness. They returned to BC on 28 Oct.

  Left BC on 29 Oct at 9 am by foot to Namche.

  Oxygen: None, just 1 bottle carried for emergency.

  Sherpas:
    Mingma
    Rinji


expid: AMAD21319
peakid: AMAD
year: 2021
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Norway
leaders: Kristin Harila, Graciela Cuenca
sponsor: 8K Expeditions Ama Dablam Expedition 2021
countries: Peru
bcdate: 2021-10-21
smtdate: 2021-10-28
smttime: 0530
campsites: BC(21/10,4600m),C1,C2,Smt(28/10,05/11)
agency: 8K Expeditions (Satori Adventures pmt)
routememo:
  Report from Graciela Cuenca:

  BC  30/10  4530m
  C1  01/11  5700m
  C3  02/11  6400m
  Smt 03/11  by Cuenca at 9:30 am.

  Cuenca left C3 at 6:20 am. It was very windy that night. She was the only person at C3 and because she had a pretty sleepless night due to the wind; she overslept and only started at 6:20 am. Her ascent was straight-forward, but it was very windy. She stayed one hour on the summit and descended to C2 where she arrived at 3:40 pm. On 04/11 back to BC. Left BC on 07/11.


  Report from Kristin Harila (from Facebook and Instagram):

  BC  21/10  4600m
  C1  22/10  5700m
  C2  27/10  6000m
  Smt 28/10  by Harila and Chhiring Namgyal at 5:40 am.

  Summit push:

  Tuesday we started from Base Camp (4600m) to Camp 1 (5700m), lucky I was feeling much better then on the first rotation up. Then I used 8.5 hours up, now it was easily done in 5 hours.

  After a really good night in Camp 1, we started to climb to Camp 2 (6000m). A technical climb on rocks, especially the Yellow Tower, where I was struggling. But I felt good, and we arrived Camp 2 after three hours. It was so warm in our tent, but I got a few hours of sleep in the afternoon before the alarm woke us up at 10.30 PM.

  11.30 PM we where ready, and started to climb to Camp 3 (6500m). I had my down suit and 8000m boots on, and where so warm! Crampons on all the way from Camp 2! After about three hours, we reached Camp 3, and took a short cola and snacks break in a tent.

  When we started to climb from Camp 3, I was a little worried that it would be dark at the summit. But just before we reached there, we could enjoy a beautiful sunrise, and at 05.30 AM, we finally reached the summit of Ama Dablam (6814m).
  After taking some pictures, we started our climb down and decided to go all the way down to Base Camp. It was so warm in the sun, and after 17 hours in total, we finally arrived Base Camp again.

  So how was it? Technical, yes! But first of all I will remember the climb for just being constantly steep, and the mountain for being SO beautiful.


expid: AMAD21320
peakid: AMAD
year: 2021
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Khai Van Nguyen
sponsor: Pioneer Adventure Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: India, Kyrgyz Republic, Russia, Spain
smtdate: 2021-10-27
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,Smt(27/10,15/11)
agency: Pioneer Adventure
routememo:
  Khai Van Nguyen report:

  BC  25/10  4580m
  C1  30/10  5650m
  C2  08/11  6000m
  Hpt 09/11  6300m

  Nguyen and Lakpa Gyaljen reached 6300m on 9 Nov when Nguyen experienced AMS symptoms. The weather was reasonable with wind predicted top be around 45-55km/h. It weas a clear day. He felt fine at C2, but started to experience a few AMS symptoms as he went higher toward C3. Went down and left BC on 10 Nov.


  Manisha Waghmare report:

  BC  10/11  4570m
  C1  33/11  5700m
  C2  14/11  5900m
  Smt 15/11  by Waghmare, Lhakpa Nuru and Ang Chhongbi at 13:15 pm.
  C3  15/11  6200m

  Team left C2 at 1 am on 15/11, summited at 13:15, descended to C3 around 6 pm.


expid: AMAD21321
peakid: AMAD
year: 2021
route1: SW Ridge
route2: W Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Ganesh Thakuri
sponsor: Utmost Adventure Ama Dablam Expedition 2021
countries: Czech Republic, France, India, Portugal, USA
smtdate: 2021-10-29
smttime: 0845
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,Smt(29/10,02-05/11)
agency: Utmost Adventure
routememo:
  Report from Zdenek Hak:

  Approach: Lukla->Gokyo->Gokyo Ri->Cho La->Lobuche East for acclimitization.

  BC  30/10  4600m
  ABC 31/10  5400m
  C1  01/11  5800m
  C2  02/11  6000m
  C3  03/11  6400m
  Smt 04/11  by Gembal and Hak at time 11:30 am.

  Left on the 4th Nov early morning 6 am. Perfect conditions. Spent 1 hour on the summit taking photos. Good temp, light wind. Perfect. C2 same day and slept the night. 5th Nov returned to BC.

  Gembal left BC on 8 Nov  by walking to Lukla.

  Gembal was a client of Hak.


  Report from Pedro Queiros Clemente (from Facebook):

  @Pangboche, Nepal

  The final journey to the summit of Ama Dablam mountain in Nepal took a total of 80 hours.

  50 hours to go up and 30 down. 80 hours of constant struggle, focus every second, anxiety in accomplishing the goal, a lot of joy and fear too.

  The mountain is not an easy place. It's cold and uncomfortable And when you're there, in the middle of the Himalayas, without the comforts you're used to, no cell phone network, no food in the fridge, no heating, no TV, no car, you have to be the best version of yourself.

  The summit arrived on Friday, October 29th at 8:45 am.

  After two days of hiking in dizzy precipitation and climbing monstrous walls, some level 5B or 5C, there was still 9 hours of hiking through rock, ice and snow to reach the summit.

  It was at this moment that not all went well. The wind increased to 60km/h at dawn from the attack to the summit and there were fears of getting worse. Snow flurries slammed the body and some rocks and ice rolled down the mountain.

  At 3:50 in the morning we found an abandoned tent next to the old Camp 3 at 6400 meters altitude, and we stayed there for two hours waiting for the sunrise. Sitting with head between knees and hugging my legs to try and keep warm. It was -25 degrees and the wind was beating the fragile tent cloth. Still sang some Bob Marley songs "Every little thing, is gonna be all right. "I thought a lot about my family and friends.

  At 5:45 and with the first rays of light, we decided to leave the tent and advance to the summit trying mode. If it wasn't possible to move forward, we'd have to cancel the climb. And always not forgetting that you had to go back.

  Step by step we went there for 4 hours, going up and up and down. The sun did not warm the body but at least it was a sign of hope. Sometimes the wind would hit my snowy face so hard, it was like being slapped. Many times I stopped feeling my fingers and toes.

  About 100 metres from the summit my tears started to fall and the mantra was just one: "You can do this!! No one takes you out of this adventure!!"

  Reached the peak.

  Took some pictures with our flag, thanked the heavens and placed a lego block of my son Vicente in the snow. Phone just died in 5 minutes Hugged my friend and guide Furba Tenjing Sherpa . A hero and a living legend. Without him none of this would be possible.

  Now I still have to go back. Going up is optional. Going down is a must.


expid: AMAD21322
peakid: AMAD
year: 2021
route1: W Face
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Zdenek Hak
sponsor: Czech Ama Dablam Expedition 2021
approach: Lukla->Gokyo->Cho La->Lobuche East->BC
bcdate: 2021-10-30
smtdate: 2021-11-12
smttime: 1630
termdate: 2021-11-15
campsites: BC(30/10,4600m),C1(09/11,5200m),Biv1(10/11,6000m),Biv2(11/11,6300m),Smt(12/11)
agency: Utmost Adventure
routememo:
  Approach: Lukla->Gokyo->Gokyo Ri->Cho La->Lobuche East for acclimitization.

  Route: West Face via American Direct route

  Left normal Base Camp on 9 Nov. Went below the face for C1 on at 5200m, stayed the night.

  Biv 1: 10 Nov started climbing at 5 am, perfect conditions. Used the ridge under the American route, to the right side because the snow conditions were firmer than on the left side where snow was like sugar. Climbed for 11 hours. Mixed rock and ice climbing. Arrived 4 pm at Biv 1 at 6000m.

  Biv 2: 11 Nov started too late at 10:30 am because we were waiting for the sun. We climbed 5 hrs approx. till 6300m: climbing was so difficult because there were many seracs. We found the route between the seracs with icy ridges with a lot of unstable snow. It was really hard; we didn’t imagine it to be like this. It was dangerous during this climb.  Arrived at 4 pm at Biv 2.

  Summit day: Left next day 12 Nov. Woke at 4 am and started at 6 am. First part was very technical rock and mix climbing below the big serac. Americans went right, whilst we went directly up, finally able to climb the same route as Smid, about 200-300m till the summit.

  [Our first plan was to repeat the Miroslav Smid 1986 Czech route all the way, but it was not possible. 35 years ago there was more snow and ice. Now too rocky, no snow, and the serac is deadly. On the ridge you are safe.]

  Rappelled down to C1 normal route and arrived at 7 pm and stayed the night.

  13 Nov left at 7 am and arrived at BC at 9 am.

  Summit date: 12 Nov at 4:30 pm. Spent half hour on the summit.

  Hak left BC on 15th Nov	by walking back to Lukla. Kacha went on a trek.


expid: AMAD21325
peakid: AMAD
year: 2021
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Gregory Lesperance
sponsor: Wild Yak Ama Dablam Expedition 2021
countries: Germany, Netherlands, S Africa, Spain, Turkey
smtdate: 2021-10-23
campsites: Smt(23/10,05,10,16/11)
agency: Wild Yak Expeditions
routememo:
  Report from Dawa Sambu Sherpa:

  BC  12/11  4900m
  C1  14/11  5400m
  C2  15/11  5900m
  Smt 16/11  by Dawa Sambu and Tendi at 10 am.

  Tendi Sherpa and Dawa Sambu Sherpa summited together (their clients returned from C2 and C3). After summiting, they descended to C1 and next day to BC on 17 Nov. Left BC on 18 Nov.

  Dawa Sambu Sherpa is from Dream Himalaya (on Wild Yak permit).


expid: AMAD21401
peakid: AMAD
year: 2021
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Simone Moro
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks (SST) Winter Ama Dablam Expedition 2021-2022
countries: Libya, Netherlands, Romania, Thailand, USA
smtdate: 2021-12-20
campsites: Smt(20/12)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  From George Ionescu FB page:

  Ama Dablam 2022, entirely Romanian winter expedition

  We reached base camp today, to find out that we are the only team to attempt the summit in the coming weeks; this will be an attempt without the help of a rope fixing team and without Sherpa support.

  Gina Badescu and I started this expedition on January 2nd; we will attempt to summit Ama Dablam 6812m until the end of January.

  Today, after our first base camp lunch ( accompanied only by the basecamp manager, the cook and the cook’s helper), we went for an acclimatization hike up to approximately 5000 meters, trying to asses the route condition toward camp 1. Tomorrow we plan for an active recovery day.


  Report from Arnold Coster:

  BC  10/01  4600m
  C1  15/01  5700m
  C2  16/01  5850m
  HPt 16/01  5850m Coster, Gieling, Pasang Sherpa, Rinji Sherpa.

  Team reached C2 on 16/01 and stayed the night. Conditions were Ok, but client decided to give up on the expedition, so they descended to BC on 17/01.

  Left BC on 18/01 by heli.

  Sherpas above BC: 2
  Fixed rope: Route still fixed from autumn


expid: ANN321301
peakid: ANN3
year: 2021
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Viacheslav Polezhaiko
sponsor: Ukrainian Annapurna III Expedition 2021
approach: By heli from Ktmdu
bcdate: 2021-09-23
smtdate: 2021-11-06
smttime: 1040
termdate: 2021-11-09
accidents: Light frostbite on fingers by Polezhaiko, Balabanov; numb fingers Fomin
agency: Seven Summit Treks
campsites:
  BC(23/09,4600m),C1(23/10,5600m),C2(25/10,5800m),C3(26/10,5600m),C4(27/10,6000m),C5(28/10,6150m),C6(29/10,6250m),C7(30/10,6400m),C8(31/10,6500m),C9(01/11,6600m),C10(02/11,6800m),C11(03/11,6900m),C12(04/11,7000m),C13(05/11,7400m),Smt(06/11)

routememo:
  Team arrived in Kathmandu around 19 Sept. On 23 Sept they helicoptered to BC since the trekking route to BC was impossible due to rockwalls that were in the path.

  BC  23/09  4600m where glacier and meadow meet by a stream.
  C1  23/10  5600m on the ridge.
  C2  25/10  5800m on the ridge.
  C3  26/10  6000m on a plateau.
  C4  27/10  6100m on the rocky ridge on the technical part.
  C5  28/10  6150m
  C6  29/10  6250m underneath the chimney (the team’s highest point in 2019).
  C7  30/10  6400m on a small ledge on the right side of the ridge.
  C8  31/10  6500m on a snowy tooth (the point where David Lama’s and 
                   Nick Bullock’s team turned back).
  C9  01/11  6600m on the ridge.
  C10 02/11  6800m on the ridge underneath snow mushroom.
  C11 03/11  6900m on the ridge on a piece of ice and snow hammock.
  C12 04/11  7000m just on the top of the ridge.
  C13 05/11  7400m on a very windy slope.
  Smt 06/11  by Balabanov, Fomin, Polezhaiko at 10:40am.

  At BC they had a big tent where they cooked, slept and ate. NO SUPPORT STAFF! For their high camps they had a two-man tent that weighed about 1.2 kg. They spent one month at BC and first acclimatised on the ridge between Annapurna III and Annapurna IV where they reached about 5800m.

  Second acclimatisation rotation on the slopes of Annapurna IV where they reached about 7100m. They spent two nights at this altitude.

  After their two rotations, the team spent 11 days at BC as bad weather had hit the region in mid-October. Their BC tent collapsed three times under the heavy snow. On 21 Oct the weather improved, and they waited for another two days for the snow to consolidate before they started their climb which was done in true Alpine style!

  On 23 Oct they headed out of BC at midnight. They climbed all the night until 5 pm. The lower part of the route was mixed rock/ice without vertical sections – about 50 to 60 degrees. They gained the ridge and climbed to the right of David Lama’s line. It was very warm and the waterfall Lama’s team climbed during their attempt was no longer frozen.

  They stayed two nights at 5600m and continued on the ridge through a rocky section, which was a lot more difficult than in 2019 as it was very dry. They spent half a day to get through the rocky section and gain about 150m in altitude. The snow on the rocky section was very unstable. Climbing was mainly done during the night as the sun was too strong and would have made climbing more difficult.

  On 26 Oct, they left C2 during the night and continued up the ridge until they reached a small plateau, where they set up C3. This was the only place on the climb where the team was actually able to take off their harnesses and relax a bit. Higher up, this was no longer possible.

  On 27 Oct, they left C3 in the morning and climbed on the rocky ridge gaining a more technical part. They climbed below the ridgeline which made progress very slow. Every afternoon they had precipitation dumping about 18 to 20cm of snow every day.

  On 29 Oct, Fomin spent half day climbing the chimney while the others rested at C6. The chimney is about one pitch but extremely difficult. Bad rock, bad protection and very sharp rock. Fomin returned to C6 where the team spent another night.

  On 30 Oct, the entire team climbed the chimney and gained better ground which was rock and ice.

  On 31 Oct they camped on a snowy tooth from where they had to descend a vertical snow face. They understood why nobody continued from here as it seemed as if the route did not continue. They put Polezhaiko on a top rope (without putting any protection such as anchors in) and he descended for about 10m. Even though it looked impossible he managed to cut steps and the others followed.

  After the descent they had to climb across some unprotected snow and brittle rock on the ridge.

  Above C10, the route was more mixed again. Polezhaiko climbed a few pitches on mixed terrain and they spent the night underneath a big snow mushroom on the ridge.

  They continued on the ridge and set up the worst camp of the climb. On that day (4 Nov) they aimed to reach the top of the ridge, however, there was a big snow storm dumping about 30cm of snow. Strong winds. They did not manage to reach the top of the ridge and had to find a place for their bivvy which proved very difficult There were no ledges whatsoever on the ridge. They had a snow hammock which they used to build a makeshift ledge. They found a small piece of ice with a bit of snow on top of it. They put their snow hammock on top of it. The slope was about 50 degrees steep, and they ended up sitting up all night.

  On 4 Nov they climbed to the top of the ridge on vertical ice (cascades). It was a very long day and they set up their camp once they gained the ridge at 2 am on 5 Nov. They intended to push for the summit on 5 Nov but as the team was exhausted they decided not to push for the summit on that day. They reached 7400m at 5 pm. The winds were very strong and they realised it was too late, too cold and too windy. So, they set up another bivvy on a snowy slope that was not wind protected. They found a rock which gave them some shelter.

  On 6 Nov, they left their high camp at 7 am (they could not start earlier as it was too cold and too windy). Even though it was only another 150m in altitude the distance was very long. They reached the summit at 10:40 am.

  Desecnt:

  Initially they wanted to descend their ascent route. They had about 30 pitons with them for the descent. But when they were on the summit they realised that descending the same route would take at least 4 days. At first they wanted to descend towards the North (Manang side). They had looked at it before the climb and thought it was easy as there were slopes they could walk down. However, the main problem was getting to the slopes. They would have had to traverse about 3.5 km to get to the gentle slopes. They had headwind and even though it was a good plan it was too dangerous in the wind. When they approached the summit, they realised that going to Manang was not possible due to the wind.

  They ended up descending the western slopes towards Annapurna South BC.

  On 6 Nov, they walked down on snow and ice to 6800m where they set up a camp. They arrived at 5 pm. The camp was just on the top of the steeper section.

  On 7 Nov, they started to downclimb and later abseil down the steep ice sections on abalakovs. They set up a camp on an ice pillow at about 6400m.

  On 8 Nov, they continued to abseil, but suddenly reached a huge ice overhang of about 100m. They had to abseil around this ice block and continue to abseil and downclimb on ice and rock sections until 2 am on 9 Nov. The last abseil was a vertical ice section of 55m, which was lucky as they had a 60m rope – it was just long enough for them to get down. After the last abseil the ended up in a glacial icefall on the bottom of the slope. They realised that they were unable to find the route through the icefall in the dark. They walked away from the face for about 200m and found a large serac that was protecting them a bit. They set up a camp at 5400m and slept for about 3 hours until sunrise. They finished their last gas and their last food, so they knew they had to reach the bottom the following day.

  On 9 Nov, they crossed the icefall early in the morning (first sunrays) to get away from the danger. They descended the valley on the glacier and realised that it was still a long way to civilization. At about 5200m, they rang SST to order a helicopter, but told them they would want to reach about 4800m as the helicopter would be cheaper when it lands lower down. However, when they had reached 5000m, the helicopter came to pick them up which was arranged by SST.

  The helicopter took them to Pokhara and Polezhaiko went to their BC to collect the gear. They helicoptered back to Kathmandu the same day.

  Accidents: Light frostbite on fingers by Polezhaiko, Balabanov; numb fingers Fomin.

  Each member lost between 12 and 16 kg during the trip.


expid: BARU21301
peakid: BARU
year: 2021
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Juergen Greher
sponsor: Thamserku Baruntse Expedition 2021
countries: Colombia, Denmark, France, India
approach: Lukla->Zetra La->Mera Peak->Baruntse BC
termnote: Abandoned at 6480m due to high winds and impassable crevasses above at 6900m
campsites: BC,C1,C2,xxx
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  The Thamserku Baruntse expedition was comprised of several small independent teams that climbed on different dates.

  Impassable crevasses were found at 6900m (by Sherpas?) that would have prevented summiting. Climbers reached only C2 (6480m), C1 (6100m) on the West Col, or went only to base camp.


  Report from Juergen Greher:

  BC  30/10  5400m
  C1  02/11  6100m (West Col)
  C2  03/11  6480m
  HPt	03/11  6480m by Soell, Greher, Mingma Sherpa

  It was simply too windy to climb. The night at C1 was already very windy, however, the weather forecast predicted good weather for 04/11. So the team continued to C2, but the night was too windy, about 110 km/h. On 04/11 they descended to BC and left BC on 05/11.

  On 06/11 they crossed the Amphu Laptsa into the Khumbu.


expid: BARU21303
peakid: BARU
year: 2021
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Stuart Peacock
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Baruntse Expedition 2021
countries: France, Ireland
approach: Lukla->Khare->Mera La->Baruntse BC
bcdate: 2021-10-22
smtdate: 2021-11-01
termnote: Abandoned at c6400m to due high winds
othersmts: Attempted Mera Peak (bad weather)
campsites: BC(22/10,5400m),C1(25/10,6100m),C2(01/11,6400m),xxx
agency: Makalu Adventure
routememo:
  Oct 22 - Arrival at BC
  Oct 25 - Moved up to C1
  Oct 29 - Touched C2
  Nov 01 - Moved up to C2
  Nov 02 - Abandoned expedition due to high winds


expid: BARU21304
peakid: BARU
year: 2021
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Finland
leaders: Peter Silander
sponsor: Finnish Baruntse Expedition 2021
approach: Lukla->Mera La->Baruntse BC
bcdate: 2021-10-31
smtdate: 2021-11-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6420m due to strong winds
campsites: BC(31/10,5400m),C2(03/11,6420m),xxx
agency: Expedition Himalaya
routememo:
  From Joni Hukkanen Facebook:

  Namaste,

  The exceptional weather in the Himalayas continued in Baruntse as well. Normally, areas that would have been snow-free at this time of the year were now under over a meter of snowflakes. The transition from Mera to Baruntse was heated in the snow, when normally progress would take place mostly on dry fields and rocks. This made making the trip difficult and also challenging.

  31.10 we arrived at Baruntse base camp (5400m). We had been booked for 10 days to stay here. There should be a suitable weather window inside it to reach the top. Weather forecasts still showed really strong winds the whole time, so we were left with only one option to try to cheat. 3/11 we were on our way to Baruntsen camp 2. (6420m). Over a kilometer and 5.7 km of elevation in one day. In a strong headwind, the step was hard and staying up was challenging. N. After 9 hours of climbing, just arrived at camp 2 at sunset. According to the weather forecast, the wind was supposed to fall around 02-03 at night. However, this did not happen. On the contrary, the strength of the wind rose over 25m/s and there was something completely different in the bushes. I spent the scariest moment of my life with two other climbers in a tent side by side for 12 hours. At some point in the night, when the wind was blowing the tent, I was already sure that I wouldn't make it out of here unharmed. Three or four of our five tents broke or destroyed overnight. Luckily no one was injured or frozen during the night. In the morning it was stated that we had no access to the summit of Baruntse, so we set off to land towards base camp. Despite what happen we were all content and happy. We made it through camp 2. up to the bad weather and we were all fine. Baruntse has not been able to outline since 2019. At the same time, there were several expeditions with us and everyone had a trip to camp 2.

  I returned to Finland yesterday. Over a week earlier than planned. Weather conditions also affected Baruntse's exit. Blizzard had closed Amphu Lapcha sola, through which we had to hike away, so we had to leave base camp in helicopters to Lukla from which we flew back to Kathmandu.

  The whole trip from 13/10 to 9/11 contained many experiences and events that will surely stay in your mind for the rest of your life. I went for adventure and I got it with bonaris worth the money.


expid: CHAM21301
peakid: CHAM
year: 2021
route1: N Face (up), SW Ridge-W Face (down)
nation: France
leaders: Benjamin Vedrines
sponsor: French Chamlang N Face Expedition 2021
ascent1: 8th
approach: Phaplu by Jeep->Kharikola->Khare->Mera Peak for acclimatization->Mera La
bcdate: 2021-10-04
smtdate: 2021-10-12
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2021-10-16
campsites: BC(04/10,4970m),ABC(09/10,5450m),Biv1(10/10,6400m),Biv2(11/10,6700m),Smt(12/10),Biv3(12/10,6600m)
agency: Pralhad Chapagain (Freelancer at Expes.com)
routememo:
  BC   04/10  4970m
  ABC  09/10  5450m
  Biv1 10/10  6400m (at foot of the route's crux section)
  Biv2 11/10  6700m (above the crux section)
  Biv3 12/10  6600m on the W Ridge (at the first quarter/third of it starting
                    from the top)
  Smt  12/10  by both members at 3 pm.

  Details of Climb:

  24/09: Jeep to Phaplu
  25/09: 1st trekking day
  26/09: Tangnak (4200m)
  27/09: rest day in Tangnak
  28/09: Khare
  29/09: rest day in Khare
  30/09: first night of acclimatization at 5600m on Mera Peak
  01/10: 5600m to 6000m, night at 6000m
  02/10: second night at 6000m
  03/10: 6000 to 6400m, night at 6400m
  04/10: 6400m to BC of Chamlang.
  05/10: rest day in BC
  06/10: carrying loads, deposit and reconnaissance of ABC campsite (5450m).

  07/10: second wave of load-carrying (deposit of waterproof bags...). Also put crampons to check the bergschrund/rimaye plus beginning of the route. Made 1 big pitch in soft snow, finding the latter's conditions to be good enough (“quick snow”, halfway between snow and ice, similar to polystyrene, on which can climb safe and fast) for an attempt. Fixed that pitch to cross the rimaye in prevision of the coming attempt (afterwards happened to be a good precaution, since the rimaye would open inbetween).

  08/10: rest day in BC, doing preparations for the climb.

  09/10: slept at ABC, doing ultimate preparations.

  10/10: first day of the ascent. First 300m (55 to 65° in snow) climbed in simul rope. Then belayed pitch by pitch in a difficult section from c6050m to 6400m. Installed a bivy to the left of the crux start.

  11/10: after an abseil to reach its footstep, climbed the 200m high crux section, consisting mainly in steep ice (WI 5+ in ice, mixed M5+) of ephemeral veneers (safe enough with possibilities for setting good belays and putting ice screws). Bivy installed a little above the end of the crux section.

  12/10: as the upper snowy slopes got less sustained (45-50°), first put the rope then went free soloing. Had good snow for breaking the trail (maximum to the ankles). Just had to negotiate 2 mixed pitches (in M4, M5) where had to climb with the rope and belay. Duet reached the top at 3 pm.

  At 4:30 pm, duet had downclimbed the upper SW Face to the W Ridge, bivying at c6600m.

  13/10: duet continued to solo downclimb the West Ridge (“like Lyskamm ridge, but a little steeper”), finding it quite sharp in some sections ; lower found old fixed ropes remnants, then a rotten rock section, the grassfields and eventually the path bringing them back to BC, reached at c.1:30-2:00 pm.

  14/10: helped by Symon, the duet came back to remove its ABC.

  15/10: rest day at BC.
  16/10: left BC to Tangnak.
  17/10: rest day in Tangnak.

  18/10: As Symon Welfringer got a serious knee injury after a short fall from a little wall, him, Aurelien Vaissieres, Benjamin and Charles took an helicopter flight from Tangnak (4200m) back to Kathmandu.

  19/10: left Nepal.

  Intented as a plan A this new line on the part of the North Face located left to the Czech line (“UFO”, 2019, Marek Holecek and Zdenek Hak). As a plan B, Vedrines had thought about the South Pillar reaching the crest of Chamlang further to the east, or the Hongku Chuli traverse.

  Conditions eventually allowed the duet to achieve plan A in alpine style. The duet had good snow/ice conditions in general. Their line goes to the left of “UFO”, joining it before the exit from the face. It's called “In the shadow of lies” (1600m/ED/5+/M5+/90°).


expid: CHAM21302
peakid: CHAM
year: 2021
route1: N Pillar
nation: France
leaders: Damien Tomasi
sponsor: French Chamlang N Pillar Expedition 2021
approach: Phaplu by Jeep->Kharikola->Khare->Mera Peak for acclimatization->Mera La
bcdate: 2021-10-04
smtdate: 2021-10-11
termdate: 2021-10-16
termnote: Abandoned on 2nd day due to dangerous snow conditions and slow progress
othersmts: Mera Peak
campsites: BC(04/10,4970m),C1(10/10,6100m),xxx(11/10,6100m+)
agency: Pralhad Chapagain (Freelancer at Expes.com)
routememo:
  Shared BC with Vedrines-Dubouloz N Face team.

  From Aurelien Vaissiere Facebook page:

  Symon Welfringer:

  Coming back from another trip to Nepal, feeling so grateful to have the chance to travel back to this awesome country after the crisis, for sure the future is brighter and this year was an amazing season with a lot of great ascents.

  Together with @aurel_vassiere, @fanny_schmutz @dam_tomasi, @charles_dubouloz and @benjaminvedrines we went to Chamlang Basecamp in the Hunku valley. Our team of 4 with Aurel, Dam and Fanny was focused on the North Pillar, an awesome line which was our main goal. Sadly, during our attempt, snow conditions were pretty complexe and tricky, and on the second day of our ascent we decided to turn back as we were too slow and thinking the conditions were too dangerous.

  In the meantime, the strong Duo composed by Benj and Charles made an amazing ascent opening a great climb straight in the middle of the face.

  This expedition wasn't a success in terms of climbing but an amazing trip together with some really good friends. On the way back, I broke my foot and had to go back to KTM by helicopter, my first flight ever.


  Report from Fanny Tamasi-Schmutz:

  Approach: Mera La, Mera Peak for acclimatization

  BC  04/10  4900m
  C1  10/10  6100m
  HPt 11/10  6100m+ (a little further above C1, by all members)

  Fixed rope: None

  Climb abandoned on 11 Oct due to snow conditions on Chamlang; injury on Hongku Chuli; lack of time at the end.

  Left BC on  16 Oct.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

  Other peaks: Mera Peak for acclimatization.

  Details of climb:

  07 Oct: the team made an attempt to make a deposit afoot of the little face giving access to the glacier plateau, the latter afoot of the North Pillar. On this day, the large amount of snow in the face made the team return to BC. On this same day, Vedrines and Dubouloz were back from their successful reconnaissance above the rimaye of Chamlang’s North Face.

  10 Oct: the team reached the plateau’s C1.

  11 Oct: the team went a little further up from C1 towards the attack of the North Pillar. Considering the amount of snow to be too much on the pillar for an attempt (fearing objective risks and trail to break), the team chose to abandon for trying instead Hongku Chuli’s SW Ridge on the next day.

  12 Oct: as they were packing for the SW Ridge of Hongku Chuli and as he was working without gloves, Symon Welfringer seriously hurt his thumb with a carbon tent pole which suddenly broke. After some hesitations, the team eventually decided to come back down to BC.

  13 Oct: the team watched Vedrines-Dubouloz’s descent final stage and their return to BC.

  On the last two days (14-15 Oct), as the forecast was announcing 1 meter of fresh snow at BC for the 16 Oct, in that short weather window Vedrines went for his solo on Hongku Chuli.


expid: CHEK21301
peakid: CHEK
year: 2021
route1: W Face
route2: S Face-E Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Marc Subirana
sponsor: FEDME Women's Mountaineering Team Chekigo Expedition 2021
approach: Simigaon->Na
bcdate: 2021-10-05
smtdate: 2021-10-30
termdate: 2021-11-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6003m due to high winds on E Ridge
othersmts: Yalung Ri and Parchermo
campsites: BC(05/10,4183m),C1(29/10/5090m),xxx(30/10,6003m)
agency: Dream Carrier Treks
routememo:
  Approach: Simigaon, 3 days trek to Na.

  BC  05/10  4183m (at Na)
  C1  29/10  5090m
  HPt 30/10  6003m (on Chekigo’s E Ridge, after climbing a new route on the S Face)
             by Laia Duaigues, Nieves Gil and Marc Subirana.

  Climb abandoned on 30/10 due to high and strong wind up to 90km/h in Chekigo’s East Summit Ridge.

  1. Acclimatization on Yalung Ri (5650m) in 3 days, then Pachermo (6275m) in 4 days up to 6100m.

  Then followed a period of bad weather, covering the valley's walls with almost 1 meter of fresh snow. The team waited in base camp.

  2. Various attempts and ascent on Chekigo:

  First the team established an advanced base camp (4950m) down the South Face, necessitating 2 days (Oct 21-22) for carrying material.

  A team (Laia Duaigues, Lucía Guichot and Pablo Herraez) attempted to repeat "Sopeti" (1100m, MD +) opened by Oriol Baro and Paula Alegre in 2014 and also B team (Nieves Gil, Amaia Agirre and Marc Subirana) a direct entrance to the road «Mito Cha" (1000m, MD) that ascends to the West Chekigo (6190m). But teams couldn't make it to the top in both cases, due to the new snow conditions which slowed progression.

  Whole crew recovered in BC for a few days, then were keen again for action.

  First it aimed for the West Face from Beding village, but strong winds noticed up the mountain discouraged their attempt. Instead, the team switched for a spur on the South Face, which Mikel Zabalza had advised them.

  Laia Duaigues, Nieves Gil and Marc Subirana, after 22 hours of activity, opened a new itinerary (1000m, MD) to the top ridge, where they were rejected by the strong wind and could not reach the summit. The lower half of it is rocky, the upper half in snow and ice with some seracs at its top.

  The other members Lucía Guichot, Amaia Agirre and Pablo Herraez made a simpler exploration route on a hill between Nepal and Tibet, in the Langdung area, photographing possible lines for an upcoming trip.


expid: CHOB21301
peakid: CHOB
year: 2021
route1: NW Face
route2: SW Ridge (to 6100m)
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Luka Strazar
sponsor: Slovenian Chobuje Expedition 2021
approach: By Jeep to Chhetchhet->Simagaon->Dongang->Beding->Na
bcdate: 2021-10-12
smtdate: 2021-10-30
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2021-10-31
othersmts: Summited Omitso Go (OMIT-213-01)
campsites: BC(12/10,4100m),Biv1(28/10,5800m),Biv2(29/10,6200m),Smt(30/10)
agency: Dream Himalaya Adventures
routememo:
  First acclimatization climb: Omitso Go 6230m

  BC   12/10  4100m at Na village
  Biv1 14/10  5000m Yalung Ri BC
  Biv2 21/10  5100m by all 4 members, camped on glacier lake above Dudh Kunda
  Biv3 22/10  5700m slept at the saddle
  Smt  23/10  Omitso Go summit by all four members via easy snow ridge,
              then back down to 5700m. 

  24 Oct back to Na BC. 25 Oct rest day at Na BC

  Details of the Tsoboje climb + pre conditions:

  Around 18-19-20 Oct there was bad weather. Nejc Marcic was sick for a week and the joined climbing on 21 Oct. There were a lot of single day rotations, returning back to Na.

  All four did the acclimatization more or less together, except Nejc Marcic was sick at the start, however he (Marcic) climbed the route with Luka Strazar.

  Strazar/Marcic (summited):

  26 Oct went to check the approach to NW of Tsoboje and back to BC.

  27 Oct rested, packing at BC.

  28 Oct 1 am started from Na, good clear, cold weather conditions, windy. Approached the face, started climbing the lower part of the route at 5 am. Climbed until 7 pm reaching 5800m. Bivyed there.

  29 Oct tired from the day before, at 9 am continued with technical climbing up to 6200m. It’s NW Face so it’s really cold, so there’s no rush to get started. Bivyed there.

  30 Oct left at around 8 am; it was windy and cold, strong west, southwest winds and climbed to the summit reaching at 2 pm 6686m.

  There are two summits, pretty even in terms of height. So the Eastern most one and the Central one. Spent about 5 minutes on the summit. Then descend the West Face approx. Mingma’s line (approx. in this area). Descended all the way back to Na reaching at 8 pm on 30 Oct.


  Prezelj/Volontar (Nno summit):

  Marko Prezelj and Matija Volontar attemped Tsoboje via the SW Ridge (same as 1985 route). They began their climb on the 28 Oct (same day as the Strazar team). 

  28 Oct Bivy 1 slept at 5600m.
  29 Oct Turned around at 6100m, then descended, slept at 5600m.
  30 Oct returned to BC at around 1 pm.
  Climb abandoned on due to strong winds.

  Everyone Back to BC on 30th Oct. 
  Left BC on 31 Oct and returned same way.


expid: CHOL21301
peakid: CHOL
year: 2021
route1: SW Ridge
route2: N Face-NE Face (up),SW Ridge (down)
nation: France
leaders: Stephane Benoist
sponsor: GEAN (Groupe Excellence d'Alpinisme National) Kantega Expedition 2021
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2021-10-08
smtdate: 2021-10-15
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2021-11-10
othersmts: Summited Nare Ri Shar (6005m), attempted Omoga Ri Chang (6070m)
agency: Pralhad Chapagain (Freelancer at Expes.com)
primid: KTEG21301
campsites:
  BC(08/10,3985m),Biv1(13/10,5600m),Biv2(14/10,5800m),Smt(15/10); Biv1(25/10,5380m),Biv2(26/10,5730m),Biv3(27/10,5980m),Biv4(28/10,6200m),Smt(29/10),Biv5(29/10,6370m)

routememo:
  Plan to break up into 2 to 3 teams aiming for various goals: "Mingbo Eiger" North Face, Peak 6430m N Face (N summit of Kangtega), Cholatse North Face.


  GEAN (Groupe Excellence d'Alpinisme National) of French Alpine Club, leader Stephane Benoist.

  BC on 08/10 at 3985m (Pangboche).

  Acclimatization Climbs:

  11/10: First known ascent of Nare Ri Shar (name's ref by Jan Kielkowski, 6005m, not an opened peak) by its NE Ridge (christened “Sugar ridge” (700m, D), by Stephane Benoist, Pauline Champon, Pierrick Fine and Pierrick Giffard.

  12/10: ABC at 4900m (afoot Nare Ri Shar);
  13/10: C1 at 5300m, walking day.

  14/10: first climbing day. Both Pierrick's broke the trail. The crux was located at 5980m (M4+). Summit reached at circa noon. Could have been down the mountain on same day (“daily route”), but for perfecting its acclimatization, the team choose to bivouack at 5900m instead, just below the summit's rocky tower. After an early dinner, they were laying down at 4:30 pm in their sleeping bags. Felt a bit the altitude, little slower, but fine (no need of medicines).

  15/10: back to ABC at 4900m.
  16/10: back to Pangboche's BC.

  Meanwhile, the rest of the team with Thomas Arfi, Louis Pachoud, Gabriel Miloche and Anouk Felix-Faure climbed the normal route (SW Ridge) of Cholatse.

  13/10: first climbing day. From 4000m, intended to make first bivouac on the glacier afoot of the col. Since they couldn't find a suitable place there (not being exposed to objective risks), the team climbed up instead directly to the col. Made a bivouac at 5600m, which happened difficult for acclimatization.

  14/10: had a "small day" further up on the ridge until a 5800m bivouac.

  15/10: made the round trip to the top, summiting between 1 and 2 pm. At first had been concerned by the weather, since last days' clouds were arriving at about noon. However on that day, they got clear sky conditions on the top.

  16/10: from the 5800m bivouac down to Thare village (4350m).

  17/10: back to BC.

  Primary Climbs:

  21/10: Anouk, Pauline, both Pierrick's and Stephane went for a new line up the North and NE Faces of Cholatse. The new established line mostly climbs new ground: it first starts left to the French route, then traverses in the NE Face before traversing back to the N Face, where it joins the very exits of American/Steck routes (upper left side of the N Face).

  Most of the route sections would happen to be generally 20° steeper than anticipated from the ground. Bivouac places would happen to be rather complicated to build, necessitating 2:30 of daily earth-moving work.

  21/10: quartet with porters went to Dzongla (4800m), while Stephane was staying with the Omoga Ri Chang team.

  22/10: Stephane joined the quartet at Dzongla.

  23/10: the group went to Cho La Pass with the lodge keeper.

  24/10: the group made a deposit afoot of the route. Following the previous day's snowfall, the starting ramp now looked like the obvious option to start with. Ice veneers on the left side of the face looked also well-shaped.

  25/10: first climbing day. First climbed unroped the obvious right-to-left snowy – with little mixed ground – ramp (45° to 55°). At 5100m, team faced the first difficulties, with a rightwards traversing pitch in delicate mixed ground. Then they took left until the bivouac, meeting a ground harder than expected – involving several pitches with some delicate mixed ground sections (yet less sustained than the first aforementioned pitch).

  Bivouac 1 established at circa 5380m (altitude given by the altimeter's swatch – precision at roughly 50m). The weather forecast had announced some bad weather for this day followed by good weather for the next days, thus the team choose to start precisely on this day in order to optimize the good weather window. Eventually this afternoon saw a few clouds, sleet and snowflakes, but nothing really bad.

  26/10: first joined the NE Face by traversing up a long ramp of hard snow in 3 pitches. Then the team broke the trail in deep snow, succesively passing 3 sort of snow mushrooms. When arriving in front of the third one, took a left-to-right ramp, facing a new delicate pitch. Bivouac 2 established at 5730m.

  27/10: on this day, could enjoy the morning sun with the rather eastern orientation of the face. Straight above the bivouac was standing a high attractive steep ice section: first hesitated to try for it, but following the wise advices of its coach, the team avoided it by the left trough some ice section (in very solid ice). Next had a very beautiful ice veneer pitch to the right, well protectable on the rock lying to the left. Next was an other ice veneer pitch to the left. From there went simul-climing into a hard snow section, some sections for which they needed to break the trail. Next had 2 other ice veneer pitches. Bivouac 3 at 5980m (likely figured too low on the topo).

  28/10: started first with a long pitch of horizontal traverse, at first easy, then ending by a slightly delicate descending section (spur made of steep slabs covered with snow). Then made a pitch upwards in the axis of the couloir. Then went up left towards the right bank of the couloir. Next was a 15m descending traverse to bypass some rocks from below. From there, they were back again in the main couloir axis, now going straight upwards. They were worried at first regarding the conditions of this couloir, but luckily it was in hard snow, with ice to be found 15cms behind it for putting protections. They could haul their bags to better enjoy the climbing (maximum steepness estimated at about 80-85°).

  Bivouac 4 established at 6200m for both Pierrick's at 6200m. Three others stayed 50m below (as high as a long pitch) in a poorly confortable place; following a difficult terracing, they could obtain the space for one person lying horizontally, so that the other two had to sleep half in the tent and assured.

  29/10: exited on the summit ridge in 2 steep pitches then 1 pitch of deep snow. Considering the steep mushrooms of the summit ridge, the team choose to avoid the latter via the S Face, digging a tunnel to traverse from the N to S Face. Then they traversed the S Face in rather warm temperatures across fine 45° snow slopes, sometimes breaking the trail; this in order to join the very end of the SW Ridge, a little less than 50m below the top. The latter was reached at sunset in magnificent lights. The evening before, Pauline had wondered if they were not enjoying their last sunset on Everest, but this luckily didn't happen!

  Bivouac 5 was established 50m below the top, on some plateform (no terracing on this evening!) close to the SW Ridge lying on the latter's south side to stay sheltered from the west wind.

  30/10: started at about 8:30 am from the bivouac. In a 11 to 12-hour effort, went down via the SW Ridge until Thare, the latter reached nighttime at circa 19 hours.

  “Brothers in arms” (1600m/ED/VI/M5+/WI5) is dedicated to the memory of the 3 GEAN members who lost their lives on Omoga Ri Chang NW Face: Thomas Arfi, Gabriel Miloche and Louis Pachoud.


expid: DHA121301
peakid: DHA1
year: 2021
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Sherpa Rope-Fixing
sponsor: Sherpa Rope-Fixing Dhaulagiri 2021
smtdate: 2021-10-01
smttime: 0530
campsites: Smt(01/10)
routememo:
  A team of 5 Sherpas working for Pioneer Adventure and Seven Summit Treks summited at 5:30 am fixing ropes to the top:

    Sanu Sherpa (Pioneer)
    Nima Tendi Sherpa (SST)
    Tashi Sherpa (SST)
    Tenjing Sherpa (SST)
    Lakpa Dendi Sherpa (SST)


expid: DHA121302
peakid: DHA1
year: 2021
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Sophie Lavaud
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks (SST) Dhaulagiri Expedition 2021
bcdate: 2021-09-14
smtdate: 2021-10-01
smttime: 0530
termdate: 2021-10-16
campsites: Smt(01,07,15/10)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
countries:
  China, France, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Italy, Japan, Mexico, Nepal, Pakistan, Poland, Romania, S Korea, Sweden, USA

routememo:
  Seven Summit Treks Dhaulagiri expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Seven Summits provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Sophie Lavaud (Switzerland)

  Appr:  Heli from Tatopani to Italian BC
  Camps: BC(14/09,4700m),ABC(18/09,5400m),C1(23/09,5700m),C2(24/09,6400m),
         C3(30/09,7250m),Smt(01/10)
  Left:  05/10 to Marpha
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success at 7:40 am by Lavaud and Dawa Sangay Sherpa.

  Lavaud and Dawa Sangay were at C2, which they put at 6700m for the summit push on 29/09. They heard that the fixing team were going to the summit, so they decided to move to C3 for a summit push on 30/09. They left C2 at noon and reached C3 at 5 pm. They rested for two hours and started their summit push at 7 pm. Conditions were difficult due to a lot of snow.

  The fixing team had taken the first corridor which ended up directly at the summit. It was possible this year as there was so much snow. They stayed about 30 mins on the summit and descended to BC where they arrived at around 7 pm.

  Also summiting on 01/10: Cheol-Hee Cho, Alvarez Chavez, Bonalumi, Camandona (no oxygen), Bogdanov, Kowalewski (no oxygen), Watanabe, Picco (no oxygen), Jing He (no oxygen), Pasang Lhamu Sherpa (with Pioneer Adv).

  Oxygen: Used from C3 to top to C3 by Lavaud and Dawa Sangay

  Sherpa: Dawa Sangay (Makalu-Barun)


  Marco Camandona (Italy)
  Pietro Picco (Italy)

  Appr:  Trekked from Marpha to BC
  Camps: BC(14/09,4650m),C1(19/09,5800m),C2(23/09,6400m),C3(30/09,7250m),Smt(01/10)
  Left:  03/10
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Success at 8 am by Camandona and Picco.

  Started from C2 on 30/09 at 10 am. Reached C3 at 4 pm, where they rested for 5 hours, without tent, or sleeping bag. At 11 pm started for summit from C3. At 8 am on summit and stayed on summit for 1 hour. Back to BC at 8 pm the same day.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


  Cheol-Hee Cho (S Korea)
  Sang-Kyu Byun (S Korea)

  Appr:  Pokhara to Tatopani by Jeep, from Tatopani to BC by heli
  Camps: BC(14/09,4700m),C1(21/09,5700m),C2(22/09,6300m),Smt(01/10)
  Left:  03/10
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success at 5:50 am by Cho and Pechhumbe Sherpa.

  Cho started from C2 for the summit at 2:30 pm on 30/09. On the summit on 01/10 at 5:50 am. Stayed on summit for 20 minutes. Good view, nice weather, very cold. Down to C2 at 11 am.

  Sang-Kyu Byun did not go higher than BC because he felt unwell. Both members back to KTM on 03/10.

  Oxygen: Used from C2 to summit and down to C2 by Cho and Sherpa.


  David Klein (Hungary)
  Szilard Suhajda (Hungary)

  Appr:  Chandrakot->Hile->Ghorepani->Tatopani->Marpha by Jeep, trekked Marpha to BC
  Camps: BC(14/09,4700m),C1(21/09,5814m),C2(22/09,6450m),C2.5(23/09,6850m),
         C3(01/10,7200m),xxx(02/10,7600m
  Left:  09/10
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned due to deep snow (1st try), then high winds (2nd try).

  On first the first summit push, team was at C2 on 30/09. When the fixing team decided to continue, team moved to C3 to attempt for the summit on 02/10. The had good weather forecast; however, when they left C3 at 8 pm on 01/10 it snowed. The trail broken by the fixing team was literally gone. On the ridge it was not so deep, but it was sliding down. The traverse was deep snow. When they reached 7600m at 6 am they turned back and descended to BC the same day.

  Second summit push: Good forecast for 07/10. Team left BC on 05/10 straight to C2. On 06/10 they moved from C2 to C3; halfway they met Nims Purja and his team who were at a C2 which was about 100m higher. His team was going to start their summit push from that camp that was at about 6600m. The teams were going to meet at C3 at 9 pm. However, it was very windy and when team reached C3 at 6 pm the winds were at about 70/km. As the wind did not die down during the night, they did not leave their tent.

  Nims arrived at about midnight and his team left for the summit at 5 am despite the high winds. The wind abated at about 7 am; however, the Klein team decided it was too late to attempt for the summit and descended to BC.

  The left BC on 09/10 by foot to Italian base camp. The paths on this route were completely destroyed by the monsoon. On 10/10 to Bagar (2080m), on 11/10 to Takam (1670m); from there jeep to Beni and then Pokhara.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


  Adrian Laza (Romania)

  Appr:  By heli from Pokhara
  Camps: BC(30/09,4700m),C2(01/10,6400m),C3(03/10,7200m),Smt(15/10)
  Left:  16/10 by heli to Pokhara
  Hired: 3
  Term:  Success by Laza, Ang Tenjing, Sonam, Tenzing Lama at 5:30 am.

  During the first summit push, it was very windy. On 03/10 they descended from C3 to C2 as their tent collapsed at C3 due to the wind. When they reached C2 at about 10 pm and wanted to occupy their tent, Nims Dai was in the tent with his clients and refused to vacate the tent. Laza, Ang Tenjing and Nima (Carlos Soria’s Sherpa) pitched a tent and had a rough night. On 04/10 the descended to BC and left for Kathmandu by heli on 05/10.

  On 10/10, Laza, Ang Tenjing, Tenjing Lama and Sonam Sherpa had the opportunity to fly back to Dhaulagiri BC. Laza knew that he had to have a lot of support and hired three Sherpas. On 13/10 they ascended to C2 and to C3 on 14/10.

  They started their summit push at 9:30 pm. The conditions were tricky due to deep snow and no fixed rope on the traverse, but straightforward climb. It was quite windy. They ended up a little bit above the traverse of the previous teams and fixed some ropes. They spent about 30 mins on the summit. It was cold and windy.

  They descended to BC the same day where they arrived at 2:30 pm.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by all summiters.

  Fixed rope:	200m on traverse


expid: DHA121303
peakid: DHA1
year: 2021
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Carlos Soria
sponsor: Carlos Soria Dhaulagiri Expedition 2021
approach: By heli to BC
bcdate: 2021-09-14
smtdate: 2021-09-23
termdate: 2021-10-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to too much snow in summit area
campsites: BC(14/09,4600m),C1(21/09,5850m),C2(23/09,6500m),xxx
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  14/09  4600m
  C1  21/09  5850m 
  Hpt 23/09  6500m by Soria, Soriano, Mingtemba, Ngima Tendi, Ngima Wangdak,
             Mikel Sherpa (C2 site).

  Climb abandoned on 30/09 due to too much snow in the summit area.

  Left BC on 30/09 by heli.

  Oxygen:	Taken, but not used


expid: DHA121305
peakid: DHA1
year: 2021
route1: NE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Piyali Basak
sponsor: Pioneer Dhaulagiri Expedition 2021
countries: Hungary, Nepal, Russia, Spain, USA
smtdate: 2021-10-01
smttime: 0530
campsites: Smt(01/10)
agency: Pioneer Adventure
routememo:
  Pioneer Adventure Dhaulagiri expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Pioneer provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Piyali Basak (India)

  Appr:  Trekked from Marpha->French Pass->BC
  Camps: BC(17/09,4700m),C1(21/09,5700m),C2(23/09,6300m),C2.5(28/09,7000m),
         C3(29/09,7250m),Smt(01/10)
  Left:  03/10 by heli to Pokhara
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success at 6:30 am by Basak and Danuru Sherpa.

  Basak and Danuru did not do an acclimatisation rotation because there was not enough time for the weather window. On 23/09 Basak ascended to C2 (without crampons!!) and Danuru to BC. The weather got bad when Basak was at C2, she stayed at C2. On 25/09 Danuru joined Basak at C2 and picked up her crampons from C1 on the way. On 28/09 the team started their ascent to C3, but it was very deep snow. They did not reach C3 and put up an intermediate camp at 7000m and ascended to C3 on 29/09.

  They started their summit push on 29/09 at 9 pm from C3. Basak carried one bottle of oxygen in her rucksack, but did not use it. They reached about 7700m, but there was a lot of snow and a big snowstorm. They returned to C3 on 30/09 at 1 am. 

  On 30/09, team started their second summit push at 8 pm. Basak was more confident that she could summit without oxygen and left the oxygen at high camp. They stayed 30 mins on the summit and descended to C2 where they reached between 8 pm and 9 pm. On 02/10 to BC.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 only by Danuru Sherpa.


  Pasang Lhamu Sherpa (Nepal)

  Appr:  Trekked from Marpha->French Pass->BC
  Camps: BC(17/09,4700m),C1(21/09,5700m),C2(22/09,6350m),C2.5(28/09,6800m),
         C3(29/09,7250m),Smt(01/10)
  Left:  03/10 by heli to Pokhara
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success at 5:45 am by Pasang Lhamu together with rope-fixing team.

  On rotation, the rope-fixing team fixed to C3 and returned to C2 on 22/09. Pasang Lhamu was intending to reach C3 that time, but as the weather window was going to be on 29/09 she returned to BC to rest and get ready for the summit push.

  On summit rotation, Pasang Lhamu and the fixing team went to C2 direct on 27/09. On 28/09, they intended to get to C3, but the snow was too deep, so they set up a camp at 6800m.

  On 29/09 at 9 pm, she left with the fixing team for the summit, but they turned back at around 7600m because the snow was too deep and it was too windy. They returned to C3. The fixing team left again on 30/09 at 10 am and stayed on the ridge which was possible during the day as it was not so windy. They took the center couloirs which end up directly on the summit. The fixing team summited at 5:45 am [note: other reports give summit time as 5:30 am for fixing team].

  On 30/09 Pasang left C3 at 6 pm on her own. The weather was calm and clear. The snow was very loose and there was no fixed rope on the traverse to the couloirs. She had to wait on the bottom of the couloirs for the fixing team to finish. She was with the Chinese lady Jing who went without oxygen.

  Pasang stayed for about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to BC where she arrived at 10 pm.

  Left BC on 04/10 by heli.

  Oxygen: Taken, used from C3 to top to C3 by Pasang Lhamu.



  Luke Smithwick (USA)
  Iain Kuo (USA)

  Appr:  Besisahar->Karte->Marpha->BC
  Camps: BC(17/09,4650m),C1(20/09,5840m),C2(28/09,6426m),xxx(29/09,6750m)
  Left:  02/10 to Marpha
  Hired: 0
  Term:  High-point by Smithwick and Kuo

  Tean never made a summit push as they saw no sense in going higher with no forecast and no acclimatization yet to do so. They descended to BC, and Marc De Keyser explained to them that there was no summit window in the coming 10 days.

  They left no fixed ropes on the mountain and skied from 6750m to the icefall.

  Conditions were deep snow, they shared in trail breaking with the team that was paid to break trail and fix ropes.

  Fixed rope: 1000m

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


  From Palkesh Kalma (from www.curlytales.com):

  Palkesh said that his best mountaineering experience was when he had first climbed a 7000-metre peak. Elucidating the experience, he said, “During the summit push I continuously climbed for almost 10 hours and reached the Summit early morning and saw a sunrise from there.” When asked about his toughest mountaineering experience, Palkesh said, “On my recent expedition to Dhaulagiri. I climbed continuously for more than 24 hours on the Summit day where I left for the Summit around 5:50 PM on 30th evening, reached the summit of Dhaulagiri (8167m) around 6:15 AM on 1st October and came back directly to Base Camp (4700m) around 8:50 PM on the same day.” Dhaulagiri is the 7th highest mountain peak in the world.


expid: DHA121306
peakid: DHA1
year: 2021
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Peru
leaders: Graciela Cuenca Blas
sponsor: Lone Peruvian on Dhaulagiri
approach: Besisahar->Karte->Marpha->BC
bcdate: 2021-09-18
smtdate: 2021-10-01
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2021-10-04
campsites: BC(18/09,4650m),C1(20/09,5800m),C2(21/09,6200m),C3(22/09,7100m),Smt(01/10)
agency: 8K Expeditions (Pioneer Adventures pmt)
routememo:
  BC  18/09  4650m
  C1  20/09  5800m (300m above normal C1)
  C2  21/09  6200m
  C3  22/09  7100m
  Smt 01/10  by Cuenca at 6 am (Sirbaz Khan a bit earlier).

  After first rotation Cuenca stayed at BC for three days and then started her summit push on 27/09 and went straight to C2. She was following the fixing team. There was a lot of snow and they did not make it all the way to C3 on 28/09. She set up a tent at 6700m where they spent the night. On 29/09 she spent the night at C3 at 7100m. On the evening of 29/09 Cuenca left C3 behind the fixing team who left at 10 pm. She was with Sirbaz Khan from Pakistan; they left C3 at 2 am on 30/09. They climbed for about 100m and turned back as there was too much snow, and the avalanche danger was too high. Everyone turned back to C3 that night.

  The fixing team left C3 at 1:30 pm on 30/09 to fix the rope to the summit where they arrived at 5 am.

  On 30/09 Khan and Cuenca left C3 at about 7 pm. A lot of snow. When she reached the bottom of the couloir at 4 am, there was heavy congestion and she had to wait and had a snooze for about half an hour. She felt strong again after her power nap and reached the summit at 6 am. She spent about one hour on the summit and descended to C3 where she had a break. They continued to C2 where they arrived at 5 pm. On 02/10 to BC.

  Cuenca left BC on 04/10	to Marpha.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


expid: DHA121307
peakid: DHA1
year: 2021
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Taiwan
leaders: Grace Tseng
sponsor: Taiwanese Dhaulagiri-Kangchenjunga Expedition 2021
approach: Trekking via Marpha & French Pass
bcdate: 2021-09-16
smtdate: 2021-10-01
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2021-10-03
othersmts: Summited Kangchenjunga (KANG-213-02)
campsites: BC(16/09,4644m),C1(22/09,5468m),C2(23/09,5900m),C3(30/09,7100m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Dolma Outdoor (Pioneer Adventures pmt)
routememo:
  BC  16/09  4644m
  C1  22/09  5468m
  C2  23/09  5900m
  C3  29/09  7100m
  Smt 30/09  by Tseng, Nima Gyalzen and Dakipa at 7:30 am.

  Team started at 2:30 am. The route was busy with rope-fixing Sherpas and other teams. Snow was very deep and no rope on the traverse. They spent about 20 mins on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at 5 pm. To BC on 01/10.

  Left BC on 03/10 by helicopter to Pokhara.

  Oxygen: Used from 7500m to top to 7500m by all Tseng and Sherpas.

  No ropes fixed by the team.

  Team flew from BC to Pokhara on 03/10 where they stayed till 6/10. On 06/10 they flew to Kathmandu and took heli the same day to Taplejung.


expid: DHA121308
peakid: DHA1
year: 2021
route1: NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Jon Gupta
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Dhaulagiri Expedition 2021
countries: Czech Republic
smtdate: 2021-10-01
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Report from Jon Gupta:

  BC  29/09  4700m
  C1  30/09  5000m
  C2  01/10  6000m
  C3  02/10  7000m
  HPt 03/10  7590m by Gupta, Ferry, Lhakpa Wongchu, Siddhi Bahadur Tamang at 8:30 am

  Team left C3 at midnight. Weather was good, but the there were the tracks of previous teams. When they reached high point the fixed ropes had stopped and as Gupta did not want to take any risks and as he was not sure where the route went they turned back. They descended to BC where they arrived at 7 pm.

  Left BC on 03/10 and 04/10 by heli.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C2 to HPt to C2 by Ferry
    From 7000m to HPt to C2 by Gupta
    From C3 to HPt to C3 by Sherpas.


expid: DORJ21301
peakid: DORJ
year: 2021
route1: S Face
route2: SW Face (to 6100m)
nation: Spain
leaders: Mikel Zabalza
sponsor: FEDME Mt. Dorje Lakpa Expedition 2021
approach: By bus to Thulo Bhotang, trekked north to BC
bcdate: 2021-10-06
smtdate: 2021-10-25
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2021-10-28
othersmts: Attempted Kanshurm/Lingsing
campsites: BC(06/10,4200m),ABC(4900m),Biv1(24/10,5700m),Smt(25/10),Biv2(25/10,6100m)
achievment: 1st ascent of S Face
agency: Dream Carrier Treks
routememo:
  Approach: bus to Thulo Bhotang (1850m), then by foot to Brongdo (2700m), Nasimpati (3700m), Panch Pokhari (4100m), a place close to Tin  Pokhari (3800m) and Base Camp. The last place where there are houses is Panch Pokhari.

  BC   05/10  4200m
  ABC  08/10  4900m
  Biv1 24/10  5700m
  Biv2 25/10  6100m
  Smt  25/10  by Mikel Zabalza, Iker Madoz, Mikel Inoriza at 4 pm.

  Acclimatization on Kanshurm (or Linsin/Lingshing Himal) (east of URKM, 6074m) by the NE to E Ridge. An unclimbed peak officially (not listed in the Ministry's list).

  From Oct 14 to 16, the 6 members reached a high point of 5950m; crew was divided into 2 teams of 3 members, following each other by a day (first wave high point on 15 Oct, second on 16 Oct).

  “We notice a beautiful ridge that comes out of the same hill of the West Ridge towards the Urkinmang Peak (6187m) and that is full of gendarmes and secondary peaks. To acclimatize we go to the east edge of this ridge and ascend to one of its tips (5950m). For this we bivouac at 5300m and 5600m, respectively. Beautiful ridge in which we find some rock steps up to 5º. Then as soon as we finished our acclimatization, an unusual period of bad weather entered that had us standing for more than a week. 5 consecutive days of rains at the base that left almost a meter and a half of snow on the glacier put us on the ropes.”

  Mikel Zabalza, Iker Madoz, Mikel Inoriza climbed the S Face, while Ruben San Martín, Javi Guzman and Ander Zabalza tried the SW Face. Both teams shared the approach to the 5700m bivouac.

  Schedule:

  23/10: from BC to ABC.

  24/10: up the WSW glacier, bivy at 5700m.

  25/10: For both Mikel and Iker, summit by the S Face (850m/55 to 65° slope in snow and ice), descent down to a bivy at 6100m of the WSW glacier, reached at 7:30 pm.

  Meanwhile, Ruben, Javi and Ander tried without success an other line on the peak's SW Face up to 6100m and came back down to BC on same day.

  26/10: Summit trio back down to BC.

  Route generally much covered with snow, involving hard trail breaking. Up and down by the same route, when intended first to go down by the classic W Ridge route.

  Left BC on 30/10.

  Leader Mikel Zabalza had tried the mountain entering from the north (Langtang Valley) in 1992.


expid: EVER21401
peakid: EVER
year: 2021
route1: Lho La-W Ridge-N Face (Hornbein Couloir)
nation: Germany
leaders: Jost Kobusch
sponsor: Jost Kobusch Everest Expedition Winter 2021-2022
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche BC
bcdate: 2021-12-18
smtdate: 2022-01-05
termdate: 2022-03-04
termnote: Abandoned at 6450m due to bad weather
agency: Satori Adventures
campsites:
  BC(18/12,5050m),ABC(21/12,5200m),ABC2(22/12,5350m),C1(25/12,5700m),C2(02/01,6000m),C3(05/01,6450m),xxx

routememo:
  BC   18/12  5050m  Pyramid at Lobuche
  ABC  21/12  5200m  Everest BC
  ABC2 22/12  5350m  Bottom of Lho La
  C1   25/12  5700m  Where glacier meets rock
  C2   02/01  6000m  Just below the La behind a knob
  C3   05/01  6450m  Underneath a cornice
  HPt  05/01  6450m

  On 20/12 Kobusch and his cook set up an ABC at Everest BC. But he only spent there one night. On 22/12, he walked across EBC for about 2 km to the bottom of the Lho La and set up a camp there. Over the next few days, he fixed the rocky route on the Lho La with a rope. It was all very fast. On 23/12 he fixed the lower part, on 22/12 he fixed the upper part on the Lho La. He set up his C1 on 5700m with the tent he had dismantled from the bottom of the Lho La and stayed one night at C1. On 26/12 he ascended to about 6000m to check the route and leave some gear up there. He fixed about 10m of rope on this stretch. After that he returned to the Pyramid. The weather was very good and calm but cold. He chose an easy route, rock grade maybe 5a. Little brittle.

  On 02/12 he set off again from Lobuche to reach C1. On 03/01, he returned to his deposit where he also set up his C2 at 6000m. The ground was firn and he dug a hole for his tent as he was expecting the winds to pick up. On 03/01 he ascended to 6400m and fixed technical difficulties with some rope. It was mixed terrain. He started in a crack that was about grade 5. Old ladders and ropes from previous expeditions. Gear was old and not usable apart from some bolts, which he used to fix his rope. Dry tooling on a dry rock passage which turned into blue ice. Pretty vertical. He fixed this section with three snow anchors and then returned to C2. On 04/01 he stayed at C2 and played Nintendo. On 05/01, he ascended again to the place where he set up three snow anchors and continued from there. The route was mixed with rock and blue ice and he reached 6450m. Very exposed route. Lots of old unusable gear from other expeditions. He set up his tent underneath a cornice and stayed the night there. On 06/01, he stayed the day and on 07/01 he took his tent down and stored it in a hole. He descended to Lobuche. It was very very cold and he got slight frostnip on his feet. He thinks about -40 degrees.

  On 20/01 he set out again even though the weather forecast was bad. When he reached his first ABC (Everest BC), where he found his tent completely destroyed from the wind. He continued to his C1 where he spent the night and on 21/01 he ascended to C2. In the night of 21/01, the winds were so strong that his tent was torn, the poles broke. He wrapped himself into his tent and used it like a bivouac. He could not boil any water and descended on 22/01. He took the broken poles but left the rest of his gear up there. During the descent it was still very windy. He was a bit under shock from the night and returned back to Lobuche.

  He checked the weather forecast daily, read a lot, went for walks and ascended to C1 again for two nights on 07/02 to acclimatize. The night was very windy again that ripped his tent again. He returned to Lobuche and when the weather forecast looked a bit better at the end of February he intended to reach 7600m during his next rotation.

  On 23/02 he left Lobuche again, 24/02 C1; 25/02 C3 (he skipped C2 as it was completely destroyed). When he was at C3 the weather turned bad again and he decided to abandon the expedition as the weather was just too bad. He spent three nights up there and stayed in the tent as the winds were so bad that he was worried that his tent would fly again. The wind ripped 10 holes into tent. On 28/02, he packed up his gear and descended to C1, spent one night there, packed up his C1 (about 50kg) and descended to EBC where his cook met him and his photographer Daniel Hug, who helped him carry and pack up his gear. They descended to Gorak Shep, where they spent one night. On 02/03 they returned to EBC and packed up everything.

  Jost thinks that his expedition was successful as he had already reached 6450m on 05/01 as if the weather had been good he would have had enough time to reach a higher point.


expid: GYAJ21301
peakid: GYAJ
year: 2021
route1: W Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Romain Chambe
sponsor: French Gyajikang Expedition 2021
approach: Koto->Phu->BC
bcdate: 2021-10-07
smtdate: 2021-10-11
termdate: 2021-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to lack of rope, then bad weather
campsites: BC(07/10,4800m),ABC(09/10,5400m),C1(10/10,5900m),xxx(11/10,6100m)
agency: Himalayan Travellers Nepal
routememo:
  BC  07/10  4800m
  ABC 09/10  5400m (one night)
  C1  10/10  5900m
  HPt 11/10  6100m (just above C1).

  Spent 1 night C1 again on 12 Oct, then back to BC at 2 pm on 13 Oct. Climb abandoned on 13 Oct due to not enough rope + eventual bad weather.

  Route: W Ridge (Carlsberg Ridge)

  Details of the climb (as told by trek guide who was waiting at BC):

  Left guide/porters at BC. 4 went alone, alpine attempt. Saw a massive vertical wall that looked very challenging. Not enough rope. They said: It's better to save our lives than to attempt this. Then weather turned bad anyway.

  They stayed at BC 14 Oct for an extra rest day. 15 Oct back by walking to Koto. By 16 Oct heavy snowfall in Manang.


expid: HIML21301
peakid: HIML
year: 2021
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Brazil
leaders: Pedro Hauck Silva
sponsor: 8K Himlung Expedition 2021
countries: Ecuador, France, Iceland, India, Poland, Spain, Switzerland
approach: Besishar->Phu->BC
bcdate: 2021-10-14
smtdate: 2021-10-25
smttime: 1510
campsites: BC(14/10,4900m),C1,C2(6070m),C3,Smt(25/10,04/11)
agency: 8K Expeditions
routememo:
  Rope-fixing team summited on 25 Oct at 15:10:

    Tshering Pemba Sherpa (from 8K)
    Pemba Rita Sherpa (from 8K)
    Dawa Wongchu Sherpa (from 8K)
    Ashok Lama (from 8K)
    Karma Sherpa (from Kobler)
    3 Sherpas (from Thamserku)


  From Brazilian website report:

  November 4th – summit!

  Maria Tereza Ulbrich summited the Himlung today! Luis Cavalieri also tried, but returned due to strong winds. We still don't have more complete information about it.

  Along with her, 3 more Icelanders and 5 Sherpas reached the summit. With these peaks, the Himlung season ended with very few peaks! In one of the toughest seasons in the mountain's recent history.

  Luis is on his way to Kathmandu. He must return to Brazil the day after tomorrow!
  Maria Tereza should stay in Nepal until December. After success on the mountain she will stay to guide the trekking to Everest base camp.

  Maria Tereza Ulbrich, still little known in mountaineering, has an enviable curriculum in mountaineering, having climbed 23 mountains above 6000 meters, in addition to several other classics in just 7 years dedicated to the sport. This was his second mountain in Nepal, but the first above 7000 meters.

  October 31st – Solitaire at Base Cam

  Since the summit of Pedro Hauck and Thiago Melo, no one else has reached the top of the mountain this season. In fact, that was the only summit so far!

  Some agencies have already abandoned attempts, such as the Swiss Kobler and the Himalaya Glacier.

  Maria Tereza and Luís Cavalieri wait for the winds to reduce their strength to try the summit. Tomorrow they will remain at the base, but on the 2nd they start to climb to try their luck on the 4th of November.

  October 30th – Part of the team arrives in Kathmandu

  After 4 days of trails, jeep and road, Pedro Hauck, Thiago Melo, Marlus Jungton and Silvio Gastaldi return to Kathmandu. Maria Tereza and Luis Cavalieri remain at base camp awaiting a second window of good weather. So far it has been quite windy in the upper part of the Himlung, which has prevented any other expeditions from going to the summit.

  October 25th – Summit in the Himlung Himal

  After the weather conditions improved, the Brazilian team invested in another acclimatization cycle, in which they went to Camp 2 at an altitude of 6070 meters. They returned to sleep at Camp 1 and then climbed back up to Camp 2. This is a common acclimatization practice used in high altitude mountains to get the body used to the thin air.

  Taking advantage of the snowless days, expedition leader Pedro Hauck and mountaineer Thiago Mello decided to make a first attempt at the summit. It was a long climb up to 7126 meters of altitude, with very cold and wind in the high regions. However, they were the first climbers to reach the top this season, along with the Sherpas.

  Before going down, the Sherpas team fixed some ropes to facilitate the ascent of the next team that will take place on 11/01. Hauck and Mello head to base camp where they will meet the rest of the team and help prepare the next assault on the mountain.

  October 20th - Snow at Base Camp

  On Sunday the Brazilian team participated in a de puja ceremony. A traditional celebration in Nepal to ask the Gods for permission and protection before climbing a mountain.

  Then they completed the first acclimatization cycle. The team went up to Camp 1 carrying equipment and returned to base.

  But the weather changed, it snowed a lot in the region. So they decided to wait at base camp until the weather improved. Starting tomorrow they returned for the second acclimatization cycle. They will go up to Camp 2 and back, and then go to the last acclimatization cycle.

  October 14 - Arrival at Himlung Base Camp

  After a few more kilometers of walking, the team arrived at the Himlung Base Camp . They are already well settled and said they are eating well. Everyone is well.


expid: HIML21302
peakid: HIML
year: 2021
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Niklaus Stalder
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Himlung Expedition 2021
countries: Austria, Germany
approach: Besisahar->Koto->Meta->Phu->BC
bcdate: 2021-10-15
smtdate: 2021-10-25
smttime: 1510
termdate: 2021-10-31
termnote: Rope-fixing Sherpa only
campsites: BC(15/10),C1(23/10,5400m),C2(28/10,6100m),Smt(25/10)
agency: Himalaya Vision
routememo:
  BC  15/10  4900m
  C1  23/10  5400m
  C2  28/10  6100m
  Smt 25/10  Karma Sherpa (rope-fixing)

  Karma Sherpa on the summit on 25/10 as part of the rope-fixing team. Kobler team set off for the summit from C2 on 29/10 at 12:30 am. Stalder, Fresard, Sany and Loretz reached the highpoint of 6700m at 4:30 am and turned around because of the cold and strong wind. Everyone back to BC the same day at 3:30 pm. Team left BC on 31/10.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

  Members:
    Marisa Tribastone (HPt 6600m)
    Isabell Schittich (HPt 6300m)
    Niklaus Stalder (HPt 6700m)
    Hans Peter Winkler (HPt 6200m)
    Dora Winkler (HPt 6200m)
    Martin Loretz (HPt 6700m)
    Isabelle Fresard (HPt 6700m)
    Peter Sany (HPt 6700m)

  Hired:
    Singhi Sherpa (HPt 6700m)
    Lale Tamang (HPt 6700m)
    Mingma Sherpa (HPt 6200m)
    Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa (HPt 6600m)
    Tashi Tshering Sherpa (HPt 6300m)
    Sonam Sherpa (HPt 6700m)
    Karma Sherpa (S)


  From Kobler & Partner Facebook:

  Himlung Himal Expedition 2021:

  Our team around expedition leader Niklaus Stalder is on the way back to Kathmandu. Everyone is healthy and sound. Unfortunately, it didn't work out with the summit of the Himalang Himal (712 m) due to the conditions. Lots of fresh snow, low temperatures and wind: these are not optimal conditions for climbing a 7000er.

  Every mountaineer knows that "turning around" is often the most difficult decision and that there is no guarantee of the summit. The path is the goal. We congratulate our team on the way to ca. 6700m. For one guest or the other, this was certainly the highest point in life. We hope that everyone will remember the spectacular trekking expedition.


expid: HIML21303
peakid: HIML
year: 2021
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Tobias Pantel
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks (SST) Himlung Himal Expedition 2021
countries: Kenya, Netherlands
approach: Jeep to Koto, trekked to BC
bcdate: 2021-10-24
smtdate: 2021-11-04
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2021-11-05
campsites: BC(24/10,4900m),C1(28/10,5400m),C2(03/11,6100m),Smt(04/11)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  24/10  4900m
  C1  28/10  5400m (all members)
  C2  03/11  6100m (Wandai and Pantel)
  Smt 04/11  by Pantel, Pemba Sherpa at 7:30 am.

  Pleumeekers not fast enough and low oxygen saturation in blood. Decided to abandon climb on 03/11.

  Wandai and Pantel started from C2 for summit just before midnight. Wandai got snowblinded at around 7050m and needed to be assisted by Sherpa to get down. He developed frostbite in the process and was air lifted to Kathmandu by helicopter from 6300m on 04/11.

  Pantel and Pemba Sherpa reached summit at around 7:30 am and stayed a few minutes. Very cold and windy. Both back to BC the same day at 4:30 pm.

  Left BC on 05/11.

  Members:
    Tobias Pantel (S) 
    Gitonga Wandai (7050m)
    Catharina Pleumeekers (5700m)

  Hired: 
    Pemba Sherpa (S)
    Pasang Bhote (5700m)
    Jenjen Lama (7050)

accidents:
  Pantel frostbite grade 2 at 3 fingers of right hand and nose (full recovery). Wandai frostbite grade 3 on 2 fingers of right hand and snowblindness.


expid: HIML21304
peakid: HIML
year: 2021
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Steffen Kiefer
sponsor: AT Reisen Himlung Himal Expedition 2021
countries: Austria
approach: Via Phu Khola Valley->BC
bcdate: 2021-10-23
smtdate: 2021-11-04
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2021-11-07
campsites: BC(23/10,4820m),C1(26/10,5400m),C2(28/10,6050m),Smt(04/11)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Summit team left C2 at midnight on 4 Nov, summited at 8 am, stayed 10 minutes, then descended to C2 at 2 pm. Very cold and windy, about -45 degrees, no clouds.


expid: HIML21305
peakid: HIML
year: 2021
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Slovakia
leaders: Jana Drobna
sponsor: Thamserku Himlung Himal Expedition 2021
countries: France, Germany, Switzerland
approach: Koto->Meta->Phu->BC
bcdate: 2021-10-17
smtdate: 2021-10-25
smttime: 1513
termdate: 2021-10-27
campsites: BC(17/10,490m),C1(17/10,5450m),C2(24/10,6050m),Smt(25/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Schwotzer and Dawa Gyalgen started from C2 at 2:30 am on 25 Oct, summited at 15:13 pm, stayed 10 minutes, then descended to C2.

  They were the first expedition in season 2021; Sherpas had to set the fixed ropes.


expid: JANU21301
peakid: JANU
year: 2021
route1: N Face (to 7200m)
route2: E Face
nation: USA
leaders: Alan Rousseau
sponsor: American Jannu Expedition 2021
approach: Taplejung by jeep, trekked to Ghunsa (N Face team)
bcdate: 2021-09-25
smtdate: 2021-10-14
termdate: 2021-10-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to storms and bad weather
campsites: BC(25/09,4700m),Biv1(08/10,5200m),Biv2(09/10,5800m),Biv3(13/10,6800m),Biv4(14/10,7200m),xxx
agency: Grand Himalaya Treks
routememo:
  Expedition divided into two teams:

  North Face: Alan Rousseau and Jackson Marvell
  East Face:  Sam Hennessey and Seth Timpano

  North Face team to Taplejung by jeep; walked for 5 days from Ranipur up through Gyabla and Ghunsa, then to Base Camp.	

  East Face team went from Ranipur to Tseram. Their BC was 5000m. Left Kathmandu early. (No report from East Face team).


  North Face team report:

  Route: Plan was North Face and descend same way.

  BC    25 Sep  4700m
  Biv 1 08 Oct  5200m	
  Biv 2 09 Oct  5800m	

  Returned to BC for 2 days 10-11 Oct.
  12 Oct at 4 am climbed to 5800m Biv 2.
  13 Oct at 5 am climbed to 6800m Biv 3
  14 Oct at 5 am climbed to 7200m (at 5 pm Biv 4 there).
  15 Oct at 9 am descended back to BC.

  Large storm on 16 Oct deposited 1 meter of snow on the BC and and 2 meters of snow high on the mountain. We waited in BC for 5 days with continuous storms.

  On 20 Oct at 7 am started breaking the trail again up to 5600m and descended back to BC at around 7 pm. Too much avalanche concern and was difficult in the deep snow and decided to end the trip at that point.

  Stayed at BC for a couple of days, arranged pack animals, etc. to get stuff out.

  High point at 7200m on 14 Oct. Bivvy there, and returned to BC next morning.    
  Climb abandoned on 20 Oct due to storms, bad weather.

  Details of the climb: Alpine style attempt.

  The Russian climb of 2004 all the fixed lines and gears – only a couple of meters of rope was visible. A lot of its gone. The lower buttress has a lot of pitons. We removed some trash from other climbs 5200m. Mountain was fairly clean.

  We are planning to be back within 1-2 years.

  Back to BC on 20 Oct.

  Left BC on 26 Oct, walked back to Ghunsa.

  Other East Face team were a couple of days ahead out of Tserum/Ranipur.


expid: KANG21301
peakid: KANG
year: 2021
route1: SW Face
nation: Ecuador
leaders: Topo Mena
sponsor: Alpenglow Kangchenjunga Expedition 2021
countries: Denmark
approach: See Route Notes
bcdate: 2021-09-08
smtdate: 2021-09-18
termdate: 2021-10-11
termnote: Abandoned at 7430m due to dangerous avalanche conditions
campsites: BC(08/09,5500m),C1(13/09,6070m),C2(15/09,6200m),xxx(18/09,01/10,7430m)
agency: Himalaya Vision
routememo:
  Approach: Cheram to BC by helicopter, Chhukung to Kangchenjunga BC by helicopter by Mena and Werner.

  BC  08/09  5500m (Mena and Werner on 11/09)
  C1  13/09  6070m
  C2  15/09  6200m
  Hpt 18/09 & 01/10 (C4)  7430m by Perez, Mena, Pemba Gyalje, Palden Namgye, 
             Mingma Chhiring, Pasang Sona, Dorje Sonam.

  Werner touched C3 (6900m) twice (on 23/09 and 01/10). He had news that his father died, and he left on 08/10. The reason why he did not join the team all the way to C4 was that he was intending to use O2 from C2 on the summit push.

  The conditions on the mountain were difficult. It was too warm during the day and even during the night. Avalanche risk was moderate. It snowed a few times during the time they were there. The snow never consolidated properly as the temperature was too warm.

  When they cleared C3 after the expedition there was a big avalanche from C3 to C4.

  After Werner called off the expedition the whole team decided to leave.

  Left BC on 11/10 by heli from BC to Kathmandu.

  Oxygen:
     From 7000m to 7430m to fix rope by everyone who reached the high point
     Werner did not use any oxygen.

  Fixed rope: 5200m (all the way on the mountain)

  They left the fixed rope on the mountain for the Nepali (Gyaljen Sherpa) and Grace Tseng (girlfriend of Nima Gyalen from Dolma Outdoor expedition) from Taiwan who came in after.


expid: KANG21302
peakid: KANG
year: 2021
route1: SW Face
nation: Taiwan
leaders: Grace Tseng
sponsor: Taiwanese Dhaulagiri-Kangchenjunga Expedition 2021
approach: Taplejung, Taplejung->Cherum, Cherum->BC (all by heli)
bcdate: 2021-10-08
smtdate: 2021-10-16
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2021-10-18
termnote: Abandoned at 8400m due to wrong route followed
othersmts: Summmited Dhaulagiri (DHA1-213-07)
campsites: BC(08/10,5479m),C1(11/10,6070m),C2(12/10,6200m),C3(13/10,6900m),C4(14/10,7500m),xxx(16/10,8400m)
agency: Dolma Outdoor
primid: DHA121307
routememo:
  BC  08/10  5479m
  C1  11/10  6070m
  C2  12/10  6200m
  C3  13/10  6900m
  C4  14/10  7500m
  HPt 16/10  8400m by Tseng, Nima Gyalzen, Gelje, Dakipa, Pasang Rinji at 1 pm.

  On 15/10 Nima Gyalzen, Gelje and Pasang Rinji fixed the rope to 8000m near the couloirs. They returned to C4 at about 3:30 pm, had a rest and at 5:45 pm on 15/10 the summit team started their summit push. Nima Gyalzen and Gelje went ahead to fix the route to the summit. They spent about 30 mins on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 6 pm on 16/10. On 17/10 all at BC.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C4 to summit C4 by all summiters.

  Left BC on 18/10 by heli from BC to Kathmandu everyone.

  Fixed rope: 2000m all the way on the mountain

  Note: It was determined in Dec 2022 that this team followed the wrong route to the summit and stopped at approximately 8400m+ thinking that they had summited.


expid: KTEG21301
peakid: KTEG
year: 2021
nation: France
leaders: Stephane Benoist
sponsor: GEAN (Groupe Excellence d'Alpinisme National) Kangtega Expedition 2021
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2021-10-08
termdate: 2021-11-10
termnote: Took permit to climb other nearby peaks
agency: Pralhad Chapagain (Freelancer at Expes.com)
othersmts:
  Summited Cholatse (CHOL-213-01), summited Nare Ri Shar (6005m), attempted Omoga Ri Chang (OMRC-213-01)

routememo:
  Plan to break up into 2 to 3 teams aiming for various goals: "Mingbo Eiger" North Face, Peak 6430m N Face (N summit of Kangtega), Cholatse North Face.


  GEAN (Groupe Excellence d'Alpinisme National) of French Alpine Club, leader Stephane Benoist.

  BC on 08/10 at 3985m (Pangboche).

  Acclimatization Climbs:

  11/10: First known ascent of Nare Ri Shar (name's ref by Jan Kielkowski, 6005m, not an opened peak) by its NE Ridge (christened “Sugar ridge” (700m, D), by Stephane Benoist, Pauline Champon, Pierrick Fine and Pierrick Giffard.

  12/10: ABC at 4900m (afoot Nare Ri Shar);
  13/10: C1 at 5300m, walking day.

  14/10: first climbing day. Both Pierrick's broke the trail. The crux was located at 5980m (M4+). Summit reached at circa noon. Could have been down the mountain on same day (“daily route”), but for perfecting its acclimatization, the team choose to bivouack at 5900m instead, just below the summit's rocky tower. After an early dinner, they were laying down at 4:30 pm in their sleeping bags. Felt a bit the altitude, little slower, but fine (no need of medicines).

  15/10: back to ABC at 4900m.
  16/10: back to Pangboche's BC.

  Meanwhile, the rest of the team with Thomas Arfi, Louis Pachoud, Gabriel Miloche and Anouk Felix-Faure climbed the normal route (SW Ridge) of Cholatse.

  13/10: first climbing day. From 4000m, intended to make first bivouac on the glacier afoot of the col. Since they couldn't find a suitable place there (not being exposed to objective risks), the team climbed up instead directly to the col. Made a bivouac at 5600m, which happened difficult for acclimatization.

  14/10: had a "small day" further up on the ridge until a 5800m bivouac.

  15/10: made the round trip to the top, summiting between 1 and 2 pm. At first had been concerned by the weather, since last days' clouds were arriving at about noon. However on that day, they got clear sky conditions on the top.

  16/10: from the 5800m bivouac down to Thare village (4350m).

  17/10: back to BC.

  Primary Climbs:

  21/10: Anouk, Pauline, both Pierrick's and Stephane went for a new line up the North and NE Faces of Cholatse. The new established line mostly climbs new ground: it first starts left to the French route, then traverses in the NE Face before traversing back to the N Face, where it joins the very exits of American/Steck routes (upper left side of the N Face).

  Most of the route sections would happen to be generally 20° steeper than anticipated from the ground. Bivouac places would happen to be rather complicated to build, necessitating 2:30 of daily earth-moving work.

  21/10: quartet with porters went to Dzongla (4800m), while Stephane was staying with the Omoga Ri Chang team.

  22/10: Stephane joined the quartet at Dzongla.

  23/10: the group went to Cho La Pass with the lodge keeper.

  24/10: the group made a deposit afoot of the route. Following the previous day's snowfall, the starting ramp now looked like the obvious option to start with. Ice veneers on the left side of the face looked also well-shaped.

  25/10: first climbing day. First climbed unroped the obvious right-to-left snowy – with little mixed ground – ramp (45° to 55°). At 5100m, team faced the first difficulties, with a rightwards traversing pitch in delicate mixed ground. Then they took left until the bivouac, meeting a ground harder than expected – involving several pitches with some delicate mixed ground sections (yet less sustained than the first aforementioned pitch).

  Bivouac 1 established at circa 5380m (altitude given by the altimeter's swatch – precision at roughly 50m). The weather forecast had announced some bad weather for this day followed by good weather for the next days, thus the team choose to start precisely on this day in order to optimize the good weather window. Eventually this afternoon saw a few clouds, sleet and snowflakes, but nothing really bad.

  26/10: first joined the NE Face by traversing up a long ramp of hard snow in 3 pitches. Then the team broke the trail in deep snow, succesively passing 3 sort of snow mushrooms. When arriving in front of the third one, took a left-to-right ramp, facing a new delicate pitch. Bivouac 2 established at 5730m.

  27/10: on this day, could enjoy the morning sun with the rather eastern orientation of the face. Straight above the bivouac was standing a high attractive steep ice section: first hesitated to try for it, but following the wise advices of its coach, the team avoided it by the left trough some ice section (in very solid ice). Next had a very beautiful ice veneer pitch to the right, well protectable on the rock lying to the left. Next was an other ice veneer pitch to the left. From there went simul-climing into a hard snow section, some sections for which they needed to break the trail. Next had 2 other ice veneer pitches. Bivouac 3 at 5980m (likely figured too low on the topo).

  28/10: started first with a long pitch of horizontal traverse, at first easy, then ending by a slightly delicate descending section (spur made of steep slabs covered with snow). Then made a pitch upwards in the axis of the couloir. Then went up left towards the right bank of the couloir. Next was a 15m descending traverse to bypass some rocks from below. From there, they were back again in the main couloir axis, now going straight upwards. They were worried at first regarding the conditions of this couloir, but luckily it was in hard snow, with ice to be found 15cms behind it for putting protections. They could haul their bags to better enjoy the climbing (maximum steepness estimated at about 80-85°).

  Bivouac 4 established at 6200m for both Pierrick's at 6200m. Three others stayed 50m below (as high as a long pitch) in a poorly confortable place; following a difficult terracing, they could obtain the space for one person lying horizontally, so that the other two had to sleep half in the tent and assured.

  29/10: exited on the summit ridge in 2 steep pitches then 1 pitch of deep snow. Considering the steep mushrooms of the summit ridge, the team choose to avoid the latter via the S Face, digging a tunnel to traverse from the N to S Face. Then they traversed the S Face in rather warm temperatures across fine 45° snow slopes, sometimes breaking the trail; this in order to join the very end of the SW Ridge, a little less than 50m below the top. The latter was reached at sunset in magnificent lights. The evening before, Pauline had wondered if they were not enjoying their last sunset on Everest, but this luckily didn't happen!

  Bivouac 5 was established 50m below the top, on some plateform (no terracing on this evening!) close to the SW Ridge lying on the latter's south side to stay sheltered from the west wind.

  30/10: started at about 8:30 am from the bivouac. In a 11 to 12-hour effort, went down via the SW Ridge until Thare, the latter reached nighttime at circa 19 hours.

  “Brothers in arms” (1600m/ED/VI/M5+/WI5) is dedicated to the memory of the 3 GEAN members who lost their lives on Omoga Ri Chang NW Face: Thomas Arfi, Gabriel Miloche and Louis Pachoud.


  22/10: Unclimbed Omoga Ri Chang (in JK, 6070m; not an opened peak, but permit had been taken for nearby Kangtega). NW Face to NW Ridge. "Mingbo Eiger" is the name of NE Face, which looks like Eiger's N Face in the Alps; it's been christened by the Brits who first remarked the face (ref Victor Saunders, Paul Ramsden?).

  Thomas Arfi, Gabriel Miloche and Louis Pachoud intended to climb the NW-orientated broad couloir located on the left side of the W Face, then to follow the NW Ridge to the top (previous solo attempt of Andy Parkin? in ?). From there the duet had planned to down-climb the SW Ridge to the col (with Kang Tari, 6071m), then down-climb the steep NW couloir below it.

  Known details about the attempt:

  23/10: the trio reached the lower ABC (4600m).

  24/10: the trio walked further up till the bottom of the face, sleeping at the higher ABC (circa 4900-5000m) located nearby the start of the route (right bank of the main couloir).

  25/10: the trio took the whole day observing the face and its snow conditions from the higher ABC.

  26/10: first climbing day. Started at 2 am, climbing all day. At 17:11, they sent a SMS via their satellite phone to the other team climbing on Cholatse: "All right, long day, bivouac at 5650m, great gully. Now it's time for the ridge. Kiss". This was to be their last communication.

  Rescue details:

  30/10: Without any news of the trio since the 27th, an alert was launched by the trio following the climbers (weather forecast Nicolas Feraud, plus French climbers Damien Tomasi, Benjamin Guigonnet) to start a flying rescue operation, under the FFCAM aegis.

  31/10: In the morning, a survey heli-flight of Kailash Adventure crew (pilot Claudio Mittner) could fly to the place. The team could first spot the higher ABC tent; then see at the bottom of the NW couloir 1 bag and an ice axe lying on the surface of a vast avalanche debris; then the pilot went up the face, noticing an interruption of the climbing footprints at some stage, then above it the 5650m bivouac place; further up, the team spotted the trio's footprints going up to 5900m as a high point, then back down (the team had obviously passed the steepest section of the ridge already). At 5900m, the team had triggered an avalanche (snow slab, cornice...) on the NE Face, choosing to go back down by the same way.

  FFCAM statement detailed that the helicopter had: "spotted the tracks of the ascent, as well as the debris of a vast avalanche which had swept the face". It also mentioned that: "it spotted the [higher ABC] tent and landed nearby it. Finding no one, it took off again to watch the face and follow the ascent's tracks. The latter stop on the summit ridge at an avalanche' break circa 40cm thick. Here the footprints go back down until a bivouac place where the 3 alpinists likely slept. The footprints go further downwards for about a 100m. Then it stops at a gully from which an avalanche apparently triggered. The pilot went back down at the bottom of the face to discover an avalanche cone with two bags, one mattress and ice axes”.

  01/11: A Nepali rescue team involving Sonam Sherpa, Mingma Gyalje Sherpa, Vinayak J Malla, Ang Dawa Sherpa, Tshering Sherpa and Pemba Gyalzen Sherpa was helicoptered to try to find some potential survivors on the footstep of the face, but they found nothing except empty the aforementioned tents, bags and ice axes.

  The 5 remaining members of the GEAN expedition were helicoptered to the higher ABC, below the face, for a moment of silence.

  Then Stephane Benoist and Pierrick Giffard did a survey flight over the peak (with the same swiss pilot Claudio Mittner). It allowed to follow the footprints of the trio up to 5900m on the NW Ridge. At this place they saw the clear mark of the avalanche, as well as the footprints that the trio had left when turning back down. Circa 50m below the 5650m bivouac, they found a yellow snow stack, confirming that the trio had begun its descent. 30m below the same snow stack, at circa 5570m, they lost any signs of the trio, noticing that the snow here had disappeared for an ice slope instead – obviously the place from which the trio had fell to its death.

  The exact cause of the trio's fatal fall remains unclear: proper fall; snow slide coming from above; snow slab triggered at the 5570m place?

  The remnants of the upper and lower ABC were evacuated on this day.

  02/11: the team stayed in Pangboche, packing his gear.

  03/11: team flew from Pangboche to Kathmandu by helicopter.

  05/11: a French rescue team comprising experts of PGHM and former GEAN coach Christophe Moulin flew from Geneva to Nepal.

  07/11: the Nepali rescue team located the 3 bodies in the remnants of the avalanche, afoot of the face at circa 4900m under 1m of snow upstream and 0.5m downstream. On this afternoon, French Guy le Neve and Christophe Moulin reached the area.

  08/11: the 3 bodies were taken out from the avalanche on this day. The French rescue team begun to analyze the gear remnants and tie-in to understand the circumstances of the accident, an effort which would continue on the next day.

  10/11: the French rescue team made a reconstitution of the accident in its lodge at Namche.

  11/11: the French rescue team left Nepal.


expid: MANA21301
peakid: MANA
year: 2021
route1: NE Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Sherpa Rope-Fixing
sponsor: Sherpa Rope-Fixing Manaslu 2021
smtdate: 2021-09-23
smttime: 2145
termnote: Stopped at high fore-smt (8156m)
campsites: ForeSmt(23/09)
routememo:
  A team of 6 Sherpas from Seven Summit Treks summited at 9:45 pm fixing ropes to the top:

    Sona Sherpa
    Ngima Tashi Sherpa 
    Tenjing Gyalgen Sherpa 
    Fura Tshering Sherpa 
    Pasang Nurbu Sherpa 
    Tashi Sherpa 


expid: MANA21302
peakid: MANA
year: 2021
route1: NE Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Mingma Gyalje Sherpa
sponsor: Imagine Nepal Real Summit Manaslu Expedition 2021
countries: Canada, China, Czech Republic, Iran, Japan, Macedonia, Nepal, Netherlands, Poland, Sweden, USA
approach: Some by heli, some by trekking
bcdate: 2021-09-08
smtdate: 2021-09-27
smttime: 0938
termdate: 2021-09-28
agency: Imagine Nepal
campsites:
  BC(08/09,4700m),C1(17/09,5700m),C2(18/09,6400m),C3(19/09,6800m),C4(26/09,7500m),TrueSmt(27/09,01/10)

routememo:
  BC  08/09  4700m
  C1  17/09  5700m
  C2  18/09  6400m
  C3  19/09  6800m
  C4  26/09  7500m

  F-Smt 27/09  by Manvi, Boogaard, Pemba Nurbu and Dawa Tenzing Sherpa at 9 am.

  T-Smt 27/09  by Mingma Gyalje (9:38 am); others except fore-smtrs at 10 am;
               Hari, Tamting Sherpa and Furtemba Sherpa at 1:14 pm (Hari was 
               climbing without supplemental oxygen).

  The fore-summit team had left C4 together with the true summit team, but were ahead and when Mingma Gyalje arrived at the fore-summit they were already on their way down and did not want to attempt the true summit.

  True summit and fore-summit teams left C4 at 3 am. They reached the fore-summit at about 8:50 am. Mingma Gyalje tried to find the route at first on the main ridge and climbed up for about 3 metres; however, he thought it was too unstable, but saw that it would be possible on the north side. He climbed back to the fore-summit and climbed down on the N Face for about 10 metres and then traversed for about 15 metres and then climbed towards the true summit which was another 35m up. The snow was hip-deep in places and he went straight up towards the summit and reached it at 9:38 am. He saw to his left a rock which was good for an anchor as the snow was quite loose and it would have been difficult to fix it. So, he told the other Sherpas who were still down with the clients to veer to the left and go via the rock and put a piton in the rock. They fixed about 62m from the fore-summit to the true summit.

  They spent about one hour on the summit and descended to BC (apart from Liu) where they arrived at 9:30 pm. They left the fixed rope for other teams to use.

  The team did not have the drone pictures in advance and the drone only flew the day the team climbed to the summit.

  Fixed rope:	62m from fore-summit to true summit.

  Oxygen:
    Rzucidlo, Manavi, Boogaard, Liu, Kedev from C3 to summit to C3
    Gottlieb from 7600m to summit to 7600m
    All Sherpas and Wheatley from C4 to summit to C4
    Hari Mix without O2.


expid: MANA21303
peakid: MANA
year: 2021
route1: NE Face
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Arnold Coster
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks (SST) Manaslu Expedition 2021
bcdate: 2021-09-13
smtdate: 2021-09-25
termnote: Stopped at high fore-smt (8156m)
campsites: BC(13/09,4700m),C1(16/09,5800m),C2(17/09,6300m),C3(6800m),C4(7500m),ForeSmt(25,27-29/09)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
countries:
  France,Germany,India,Iran,Ireland,Israel,Italy,Kazakhstan,Lithuania, Oman,Pakistan,Poland,Romania,Russia,S Korea,Spain,Ukraine,USA

routememo:
  Report from Arnold Coster:

  BC  13/09  4700m
  C1  16/09  5800m
  C2  17/09  6300m
  C3  27/09  6800m
  F-Smt 28/09 by Ruane and Temba Bhote at 6:20 am.

  Summit team left C3 on 27/09 at 7:30 pm. Good conditions, good trail. They descended to BC where they arrived at 6 pm.

  Coster reached C2 on 17/09. He never intended to summit as he was leading the expedition. Team left BC on 30/09.

  Oxygen: Used by Ruane and Temba Bhote from C3 to summit to C3.


  Report from Egocheaga and Ramos Garcia:

  BC  15/09
  C1  18/09
  C2  19/09
  C3  20/09
  Fore-Smt 28/09 by both Egocheaga and Ramos Garcia at 10 am.

  Jorge started from BC at 12 am on 27/09. He met Martin at C3 at 10 pm. Both continued together to the summit. Reached the summit at 10 am. It was snowing, bad visibility. Down to C3 at 6 pm. Left BC on 01/10.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


  Report from Adrian Laza:

  BC  24/09  4700m
  C1   --
  C2  25/09  6400m
  C3  26/09  7000m
  Fore-Smt  27/09  by Laza and Ang Tenjing at 8:14 am.

  Team left C3 at 9 pm on 26/09. Straight-forward climb. They were the first climbers on this day and had to break trail. They spent about 10 mins on the summit and descended to BC, where they arrived at 4:30 pm. On 28/09, he took a heli to Pokhara and 30/09 heli to Dhaulagiri BC.

  Oxygen: From C3 to top to C4 by Laza and Ang Tenjing.


expid: MANA21305
peakid: MANA
year: 2021
route1: NE Face
nation: Argentina
leaders: Ulises Corvalan
sponsor: Furtenbach Adventures Classic Manaslu Expedition 2021
countries: Hungary, Iceland, S Africa, UK
approach: Some by heli, some by trekking
bcdate: 2021-09-08
smtdate: 2021-09-30
smttime: 0645
termdate: 2021-10-02
termnote: Stopped at high fore-smt (8156m)
campsites: BC(08/09,4800m),C1(15/09,5770m),C2(16/09,6500m),C3(28/09,6800m),C4(29/09,7450m),ForeSmt(30/09)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  BC  08/09
  C1  15/09
  C2  16/09
  C3  28/09
  C4  29/09
  F-Smt  30/09  by Corvalan, Tryggvason, Patel, Nel, all Sherpas.

  Summit team started from C4 at 1:20 am on 30/09. Reached summit at 6:45 am. Everyone back to BC the same day at 5 pm.

  Oxygen: Taken and used by members and Sherpas, by some from C3, some from C4 to summit and down to C4/C3.

  Demeny left expedition on 17/09 after he reached C1 due to personal reasons.

  Hired:
    Pemba Rinji Sherpa (S)
    Kusang Sherpa (S) 
    Dorchi Sherpa (S)
    Darinje Sherpa (S)
    Ngima Dorchi Sherpa B (S)


expid: MANA21306
peakid: MANA
year: 2021
route1: NE Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Rupert Hauser
sponsor: Furtenbach Adventures Flash Manaslu Expedition 2021
countries: Germany, Switzerland, USA
bcdate: 2021-09-19
smtdate: 2021-10-01
smttime: 0430
termdate: 2021-10-02
termnote: Stopped at high fore-smt (8156m)
campsites: BC(19/09,4800m),C1(23/09,5500m),C2(24/09,6500m),C3(29/10,6800m),C4(30/09,7500m),ForeSmt(01/10)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  BC  19/09  4800m
  C1  23/09  5500m
  C2  24/09  6500m
  C3  29/10  6800m
  C4  30/09  7500m
  F-Smt  01/10  by Stoschek, M. Wehlau, A. Wehlau, Ramsebner, Huebschmann, 
                Walker, Hauer, all Sherpas at 4:30 am.

  Summit team started from C4 at midnight. At the summit at 4:30 am, they were the only team on the summit and watched the sunrise from the top. No wind, not too cold. Stayed at summit area for 1.5 hours. Everyone back at BC between 12-5 pm the same day. Left BC on 02/10.

  Flash expedition: 14 days KTM-KTM. Team acclimatized before the trip at home in tents.

  Oxygen: Taken and used by all members and Sherpas from C4 to summit and down to between C4-C3.

  Bodenmann left on 23/09 because he suffered from an infection; he reached C1. 

  Laszlo cancelled trip before due to personal reasons.

  Members:
    Andreas Bodenmann (C1)
    Martin Stoschek (S)
    Andreas Wehlau (S)
    Anton Darius Wehlau (S)
    Laszlo Csato (cancelled before)
    Eva Maria Ramsebner (S)
    Lorenz Hübschmann (S)
    Matt Walker (S)
    Rupert Arnold Hauer (guide) (S)

  Hired:
    Mingma Dorchi Sherpa (S)
    Ang Kaji Sherpa (S) 
    Ram Nurbu Sherpa (S)
    Dawa Jangbu Sherpa (S) 
    Ngima Dorchi Sherpa A (S)
    Pasang Sherpa (S) 
    Ngima Tashi Sherpa (S)
    Dawa Dorchi Sherpa (S)


expid: MANA21307
peakid: MANA
year: 2021
route1: NE Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Andreas Neuschmid
sponsor: Kobler & Parter Manaslu Expedition 2021
countries: Denmark, Germany, Switzerland
approach: Besisahar->Tatopani->Larkya La->Samagaon->BC
bcdate: 2021-09-07
smtdate: 2021-09-29
termdate: 2021-10-01
termnote: Stopped at high fore-smt (8156m)
campsites: BC(07/09,4700m),C1(11/09,5800m),C2(16/09,6200m),C3(17/09,6700m),C4(28/09,7450m),ForeSmt(29/09)
agency: Himalaya Vision
routememo:
  BC  07/09  4700m
  C1  11/09  5800m
  C2  16/09  6200m
  C3  17/09  6700m
  C4  28/09  7450m
  F-Smt 29/09  by Goth, Hug (without O2) and Salzmann (without O2) at 7:09 am, 
               Schmid, Neuschmid, Tashi, Karma, Gyalzen, Lakpa Sherpa 
               between 6 am and 7 am.

  Salzmann, Hug, Tashi left C4 at 10 pm on 27/09, the rest of the group using oxygen left at 11 pm. Herz was with the group, but turned back at about 7450m due to lack of motivation. Good track, the weather was cloudy, light snowfall but warm, straightforward climb. The summit was quite busy. They spent about 15 min on the summit.

  Neuschmid, Schmid, Goth and Lakpa descended to C2 where they arrived at about 4 pm. The rest of the group descended to BC where they arrived at about 7 pm. 29/09 everyone at BC.

  Members no summit:
    Baertschi reached about 6100m on 16/09. He felt altitude sickness.
    Lehmann left the expedition on the first trekking day.
    Mach reached 6100m on 16/09. He had a cold.

  Left BC on 01/10 by heli from Samagaon.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C3 to top C3 by all members apart from Salzmann and Hug 
    From C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.


expid: MANA21308
peakid: MANA
year: 2021
route1: NE Face
nation: Sweden
leaders: Bruno Viberg
sponsor: Pioneer Adventure Manaslu Expedition 2021
countries: Hungary, India, Nepal, Poland, USA
smtdate: 2021-09-25
smttime: 0615
termnote: Stopped at high fore-smt (8156m)
campsites: ForeSmt(25,27-29/09)
agency: Pioneer Adventure
routememo:
  Report from Qaisra Saeed:

  BC  17/09  4880m
  C1  21/09  5500m
  C2  22/09  6100m
  C3  23/09  6700m
  C4  25/09  7300m
  Smt 27/09  by Saeed and Lakpa Gyaljen at 7:30 am.

  Left C4 for summit on 26/09 around 9:30 pm, summited, then descended to C3. Light snow, some areas not roped. To BC on 28/09. Left BC on 29 or 30/09 by heli.

  Oxygen: By Saeed from C3 to summit to C3. Sherpa did not use oxygen.


expid: MANA21309
peakid: MANA
year: 2021
route1: NE Face
nation: India
leaders: Bhagwan Chawale
sponsor: 8K Expeditions Manaslu Expedition 2021
countries: Canada, China, Iran, Ireland, Mexico, Russia, Singapore, UK, USA
approach: Kathmandu->Arked->Samagaon->BC
bcdate: 2021-09-13
smtdate: 2021-09-28
smttime: 0500
termdate: 2021-09-30
termnote: Stopped at high fore-smt (8156m)
campsites: BC(13/09,4750m),C1(18/09,5800m),C2(19/09,6400m),C3(26/09,6750m),C4(27/09,7400m),ForeSmt(28/09)
agency: 8K Expeditions
routememo:
  Summit team let C4 at 11:30 pm on 27/09, summited at 5 am on 28/09, stayed 10 minutes on summit, then descended to BC same day at 5 pm. Good weather, no wind, but little bit white-out.

  Kober summited on 29 Sept.


expid: MANA21310
peakid: MANA
year: 2021
route1: NE Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Chatur Tamang
sponsor: Chatours International Manaslu Expedition 2021
countries: Czech Republic, Russia
approach: Helicopter to Samagaon on 12/09
bcdate: 2021-09-14
smtdate: 2021-09-27
termdate: 2021-10-04
termnote: Stopped at high fore-smt (8156m)
agency: Chatours Treks
campsites:
  BC(14/09,4700m),C1(16/09,5800m),C2(19/09,6200m),C3(20/09,6800m),C4(26/09/7400m),ForeSmt(27/09,02/10)

routememo:
  BC  14/09  4700m
  C1  16/09  5800m
  C2  19/09  6200m
  C3  20/09  6800m
  C4  26/09  7400m
  F-Smt  27/09 by Chatur, Jeb Tamang, Pasang Chhiring Sherpa, Sergey Belkin, Abildaev (no O2) and Klemiashov at 7:30 am, Valeriia Merkureva (no O2) at 10 am.

  First summit team left C4 at 2 am. Good weather, good conditions. Many people on the summit. Belkin, Klemiashov, Chatur, Jep Tamang and Pasang Chhiring descended to BC where they arrived at 6 pm. Merkureva and Abildaev descended to C3 where they stayed the night. On 28/09 they descended to BC.

  F-Smt  02/10 by Rustam Nabiev (no legs, no prothesis), Ermakova, Chechnev and Mingma Gyalje’s Sherpas listed below at 10:30 am.

    Dawa Gyalje Sherpa
    Dawa Tenjin Sherpa
    Kilu Pemba Sherpa
    Pemba Tenjin Sherpa
    Thundu Sherpa

  Chatur Tamang did not have enough Sherpa so Mingma Gyalje provided five of his Sherpas to him.

  Rustam’s team left C4 at 1 am. They reached the fore-summit at 10:30 am and descended to C3 where they arrived at 5 pm. On 03/10 they descended to BC. Rustam climbed without legs and without prosthesis and will be the first to have done so.

  No Summit:
    Oxana Morneva to C1 only, problems in her knee.
    Afanasyeva, Antonov and Borisov were BC staff, but reached C1 together with 
      the team. They never intended to summit.
    Hula, Bauer, Stejskal reached C2; they climbed without support and gave up 
      at C2 (they only had one Sherpa between them).

  Left BC on on 29/09 and 04/10.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 by everyone except Abildaev and 
      Merkureva.


expid: MANA21311
peakid: MANA
year: 2021
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Jonathan Lamy
sponsor: Glacier Himalaya Manaslu Expedition 2021
countries: Belgium, Romania, Spain
approach: Jagat->Samagaon->BC
bcdate: 2021-09-11
smtdate: 2021-09-27
termdate: 2021-09-30
termnote: Stopped at high fore-smt (8156m)
campsites: BC(11/09,4900m),C1(17/07,5800m),C2(18/09,6400m),C3(26/09,6800m),C4(27/09,7400m),ForeSmt(27-28/09)
accidents: Heli-rescue of Jonathan Kubler from C3 to Ktmdu because of exhaustion
agency: Glacier Himalaya Treks
routememo:
  BC  11/09  4900m
  C1  17/09  5800m during acclimatization)
  C2  18/09  6400m during acclimatization and 25/09 during final push
  C3  26/09  6800m during final push
  C4  27/09  7400m during final push
  F-Smt  27-28/09

  Jonathan Lamy summited without oxygen on the 27/09 at 8:00 with Da Dendi Sherpa (boss of Glacier Himalaya agency). Didn't use C4 for sleeping.

  Jonathan Kubler was heli-rescued on the 29/09 from C3 to KTM because of health troubles (at C4, had become unable to walk up or down; managed to reach C3 on the 28/09). Left BC on the 29/09 for Samagaon, then Kathmandu; other members all left on the 30/09. Kubler was climbing with Kaljang Sherpa.

  Vadim Druelle summited without oxygen on the 27/09 at 8:30 am with Da Lakpa Sherpa. Didn't use C4 for sleeping.

  Carlos Cardelle summited without oxygen on the 28/09 at 8 am with Ang Gelu Sherpa.    
  Gabriel Baicus summited without oxygen on the 28/09 at 8 am.

  Remainder of team left BC on 30/09.

  Sherpas: Only 1 Sherpa for Damien Francois.

  Oxygen: Only for Damien Francois.


  Report from Damien Francois (Everquest client)

  Approach: Jeep from Pokhara to Dharapani, trekked to BC via Larkya La 

  BC  10/09  4800m
  C1  13/09  5500m
  C2  14/09  6500m
  C3  25/09  6800m
  C4  26/09  7500m
  F-Smt 27/09 by Francois and Jamling Bhote.

  Started for the summit from C4 at 3 am. At the summit at 11 am. Nice view to the west, to the east cloudy. Back to C4 at 3-4 pm. Left BC on 30/09.

  Oxygen: Taken and used by Francois and Jamling from C3 to summit and down to C3.

  Return on 01/10 by heli to Arket, then bus to KTM.

  Agency: Everquest (permit shared with Glacier Himalaya).


expid: MANA21313
peakid: MANA
year: 2021
route1: NE Face
nation: USA
leaders: Casey Grom
sponsor: Shangri-La Nepal Treks (SNT) Manaslu Expedition 2021
countries: Sweden
approach: Heli Ktm to Samagaon
bcdate: 2021-09-12
smtdate: 2021-09-28
termdate: 2021-10-02
termnote: Stopped at high fore-smt (8156m)
campsites: BC(12/09,4900m),C1(15/09,5800m),C2(20/09,6400m),C3(21/09,6700m),C4(27/09,7400m),ForeSmt(28,30/09)
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  David Landman summited on 28/09 with 2 Sherpas (all with exygen). Landman ski descent.

  Grom and Wedel attempted without oxygen; did not summit due to fatigue.

  Granberg summited on 20/09 with 2 Sherpas (all with exygen). Granberg intended to summit without oxygen, but started using at 7650m to summit and down to 7400m.

  Granberg left high camp at 4:20 am on 30/09, summited at 10:56 am, stayed 20 minutes, then descended to C3 arriving at 4:40 pm. Snowy and a bit windy when they started climbing, cleared up around sunrise. Blue skies, pretty warm and sun the rest of the day. Stabil conditions. Dry and cold sugar snow.


expid: MANA21314
peakid: MANA
year: 2021
route1: NE Face
nation: UK
leaders: Jon Gupta
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Manaslu Expedition 2021
approach: Heli to Samagaon
bcdate: 2021-09-12
smtdate: 2021-09-27
smttime: 0602
termdate: 2021-09-28
termnote: Stopped at high fore-smt (8156m)
campsites: BC(12/09,4700m),C1(18/09,5800m),C2(21/09,6400m),C3(25/09,6700m),C4(26/09,7450m),ForeSmt(27/09)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  12/09  4700m
  C1  18/09  5800m
  C2  21/09  6400m
  C3  25/09  6700m
  C4  26/09  7450m
  F-Smt  27/09 by Gupta, Ferry, Lhakpa Wongchu, Siddi Bahadur Tamang at 6:02 am.

  Team left C4 at 3 am, conditions were Ok, but in some places knee-deep snow. There were in a little queue on the summit ridge, but not a lot of waiting time. They spent about five minutes and descended to BC where they arrived at 4 pm.

  Left BC on 28/09 by heli to Pokhara.

  Oxygen: From C3 to top to C3 by members; from C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.


expid: MANA21315
peakid: MANA
year: 2021
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Clement Flouret
sponsor: Expeditions Unlimited Manaslu Expedition 2021
bcdate: 2021-09-15
smtdate: 2021-10-02
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2021-10-04
termnote: Stopped at high fore-smt (8156m)
agency: Himalayan Travellers Nepal
campsites:
  BC(15/09,4950m),IC(17/09,5400m),C1(18/09,5750m),C2(23/09,6350m),C3(24/09,6800m),C4(01/10,7400m),ForeSmt(02/10)

routememo:
  From Expeditions Unlimited Facebook:

  Ascension du Manaslu 2021 | 5 FRANCAIS SUR LE SOMMET DU MANASLU

  They reached the summit of Manaslu at 8156 meters on Saturday, October 2 at 8:30 am local time. Well done to the 14 summiters. Jerome, Pascal, Alexandra, Patrick, Eric Bonnem (founder of Expeditions Unlimited ) and our team of nine Nepali leaders (Dawa, Dipen, Karma, Pasang, Suzan, Sajjan, Dukchung, Guru and Sonam). Clément, Laurent and Lucie have reached 6800 meters and Pierre 7800 meters, all without oxygen. Special mention also to Pascal who made the ascent of Manaslu without oxygen. Congratulations and thanks to Dawa Bhote, Bishal Rai, Dipen and Clement who led the expedition with a master hand. Everyone was incredible and we are proud to include them on this adventure!


expid: MANA21316
peakid: MANA
year: 2021
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Thibaut Wadowski
sponsor: Wild Yak Manaslu Expedition 2021
countries: Switzerland
approach: Via Larkya La
bcdate: 2021-09-10
smtdate: 2021-09-27
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2021-09-29
termnote: Stopped at high fore-smt (8156m)
campsites: BC(10/09,4750m),C1(15/09,5700m),C2(20/09,6440m),C3(25/09,6800m),C4(26/09,7450m),ForeSmt(27/09)
agency: Wild Yak Expeditions
routememo:
  From Leo Sensi:

  On the 27 Sep 2021, around 8:30-9:00 am, my friends and I summited Manaslu without oxygen:

    Guillaume Jean Francois Boudet
    Antoine Georges Robin
    Leo Sensi Jules Bernard

  Thibaut used O2 when he left C3 for C4 and then for the summit.

  Vincent was able to reach C1, but the climb was physically too demanding for him. Also he had pains in his knees.

  Perrine could reach C3, but it was also too hard to continue and she didn't wanted to use O2, so she stopped there.


expid: MANA21319
peakid: MANA
year: 2021
route1: NE Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Tendi Sherpa
sponsor: Climbing the Seven Summits (CTSS) Manaslu Expedition 2021
countries: Canada, USA
approach: Via Larkya La->Samagaon
bcdate: 2021-09-10
smtdate: 2021-09-28
termdate: 2021-09-30
termnote: Stopped at high fore-smt (8156m)
campsites: BC(10/09,4800m),C1(13/09),C2(18/09),C(26/09),C4(27/09),ForeSmt(28/09)
agency: TAGnepal Trekking (Snowy Horizon pmt)
routememo:
  Rux, Chamoun and two Sherpas started their summit push at 1:30 am on 28 Sep from C4. Rux reached the fore-summit around 6 am and  back to C4 around 8:15 am, whereas Chamoun reached the fore-summit at 7:30 am. Both of them stayed there for about 10 minutes and back to C4 8:15 am and 9:30 am, respectively, then continued down to BC where they arrived at 6:30 pm. There were about 6 or 7 climbers along with them.

  The Canadian climber Brent Seal collapsed before the summit at about 7885m.

  Donald Brier, USA: Left BC on 14 Sep, he went up little above BC.

  Team returned to Ktm by heli on 30 Sept.

  Note: Why they did not try for the main summit? Rux said that the anchors along the route were not good enough, for him; it does not matter much about the main summit.


expid: MANA21321
peakid: MANA
year: 2021
route1: NE Face
nation: Romania
leaders: Gabriel Tabara
sponsor: Snowy Horizon Manaslu Expedition 2021
countries: Canada, France
approach: Via Larkya La->Samagaon
bcdate: 2021-09-09
smtdate: 2021-09-30
termdate: 2021-10-02
termnote: Stopped at high fore-smt (8156m)
campsites: BC(09/09),C1(18/09),C2(19/09),C3(20/09),C4(29/09),ForeSmt(30/09)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  BC   09/09
  C1   18/09
  C2   19/09
  C3   20/09 (Gabriel, others only touched C3)
  C4   29/09
  F-Smt  30/09 by Frederic, Gabriel, Jakes.

  Gabriel on summit at 7 am, Frederic at 8 am, Jakes at 10:35 am. Stayed on summit for 30 minutes. Group started from C4 at between 12-1 am. Perfect weather on the top, no wind. Frederic all the way down to BC the same day, Gabriel and Jakes to C2.

  Muhrez abandoned expedition on 20/09. He decided to turn around in between C1 and C2 at approximately 6200m. He felt physically unwell.

  Mayalen Berterreche reached highpoint at 7600m. She had started with summit team from C4, but felt cold and unwell. She returned to C4 and later to C2 together with Jakes.

  Oxygen: 
    Used by Bire Tamang from C4 to summit.
    By Da Thsiri Sherpa from C4 to summit and down to C4.
    By Mingma Tamang on descent from C4 to C2.
    Not taken not used by members.

  Left BC on 02/10.

  Members:
    Gabriel Tabara (S)
    Mayalen Berterreche (7600m)
    Jakes Sallaberremborde (S)
    Frederic Arburua (S)
    Ayham Muhrez (6200m)

  Hired:
    Mingma Tamang Sherpa (7600m)
    Da Thsiri Sherpa (S)
    Bire Tamang (S)
    Namgel Sherpa (6200m)


expid: MANA21322
peakid: MANA
year: 2021
route1: NE Face
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Michel Brama
sponsor: Nepal Guide Treks Manaslu Expedition 2021
countries: Czech Republic, Singapore, USA
approach: Via Larkya La->Samagaon
bcdate: 2021-09-11
smtdate: 2021-09-28
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2021-10-02
termnote: Stopped at high fore-smt (8156m)
campsites: BC(11/09,4800m),C1(18/09,5800m),C2(19/09,6400m),C3(27/09,6800m),C4(28/09,7400m),ForeSmt(28-29/09)
agency: Nepal Guide (Snowy Horizon pmt)
routememo:
  BC  11/09  4800m
  C1  18/09  5800m
  C2  19/09  6400m
  C3  27/09  6800m
  C4  28/09  7400m (Sri only)
  F-Smt  28/09 by Michel, Yeniel, Martin
  F-Smt  29/09 by Sri.

  Started from C3 on 27/09 at 8 pm. Yeniel started at 6:30 pm. Yeniel summited first at 8:30 am, Martin at 12:15 pm, Michel at 12:30 pm. Cloudy day, weather was constantly changing, sometimes snowing. In the afternoon it cleared up. Down to C3 at 8 pm.

  Sri tried to summit on 28/09, but lacked energy and slept in C4. Next day he summited at 9:45 am after setting out from C4 at 2:30 am.

  Those who summitted from C3 directly, between 14-18 hours to the summit. For the others from C4, about 7 hours.

  Left BC on  01/10 and 02/10.

  Oxygen: Taken and used by members and Sherpas from C3 to summit and back to C3.

  Members:
    Michel Brama (S)
    Yeniel Madrigal (S)
    Sri Dattatraya (S)
    Martin Jachym (S)

  Hired:
    Dorji Sherpa (S)
    Nuri Sherpa (S)
    Dendi Sherpa (S)
    Dakipa Sherpa (7800m)


expid: MANA21401
peakid: MANA
year: 2021
route1: NE Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Simone Moro
sponsor: Italian-Spanish Manaslu Winter Expedition 2021-2022
countries: Spain
approach: Samagaon by heli
bcdate: 2021-12-25
smtdate: 2021-12-30
termdate: 2022-02-08
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to deep snow, avalanche danger, and predicted bad weather
campsites: BC(25/12,4750m),C1(04/01,6000m),xxx(12/30,6500m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  The plan was to complete first winter traverse of Manaslu 8163m and Pinnacle 7992m without oxygen.

  In early January Moro, Alvarez and Chicon (Txikon) climbed up to C1 at 6000m, but bad weather and deep snow hindered their progress.

  By January 9, all Manaslu teams retreated from BC to Samagaon, some by heli and some by walking, leaving only a small Sherpa team to manage their camps.

  Moro, Alvarez and Chicon remained in Samagaon much of January, feeling that conditions were too dangarous to climb. They called off their attempt in early February.


  From Alex Txikon's blog:

  23 Dec: Team arrived at BC by 23 Dec after heli flight to Samagaon.

  30 Dec: Snowed for 36 hours (2m of snow). Climbed up to 6500m to deposit gear.

  10 Jan: Avalanche conditions are getting worse. Down to Samagaon.

  24 Jan: Team waits at Samagaon for conditions to improve. Over 3m of snow at BC.

  22 Feb: Expedition abandoned. 6500m highest point reached.


expid: MANA21402
peakid: MANA
year: 2021
route1: NE Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Chhepal Sherpa
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks (SST) Winter Manaslu Expedition 2021-2022
countries: Belgium, Finland, Poland
approach: Samagaon by heli
bcdate: 2021-12-25
smtdate: 2021-12-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to deep snow, avalanche danger, and predicted bad weather
campsites: BC(25/12,4800m),C1(01/05,5800m),xxx(12/30,6500m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Team was able to establish and occupy C1, but Sherpas unable to climb higher than 6500m towards C2 due to deep snow and avalanche danger.


  From Paula Strengell:

  Jan 2: 6 hr climb to BC, 4800m.

  Jan 3: Acclimatization climb to 5300m – Alex does an avalanche test, turns out to be grade 5 ... and everyone climbs higher the next day...

  Jan 4: climb to lower camp 1, 5700m.

  Jan 5: climb to higher camp 1, 5800m – depot – back to BC Jan 6: bad weather/snowfall.

  Jan 7: Bad weather/snowfall. Chhepal and Alex announce that everyone will descend to the village of Samagaon. A small Sherpa team stays in BC to protect the big tents from the snow, but the small tents are broken down. We are free to decide what to do, but there would be a shortage of gas and food. Since everyone will leave BC due to the bad weather, we decide to descend with them. This proved to be a dangerous undertaking when we see an avalanche passing through the freshly fallen snow next to us. Sherpa team along with Simone take the lead down, but Alex team with Chhepal do not follow.

  Jan 8: Inaki Alvarez and photographer Sendoa Elejalde descend on foot to Samagaon. Alex, Chhepal and Eneko take the helicopter from BC to Samagaon, pick up Simone and fly off to Kathmandu. Personally we don’t think it is a good strategy that “leaders” like Chhepal and Alex abandon their own team (and others). Simone, let us know from the start that he would follow his own trajectory (so no problems with that), while Alex and Chhepal indicated before (and during the expedition) that they wanted to work together as a team.

  Jan 9: Dawa Chhiri becomes the new temporary basecamp leader, but communication is very difficult due to a lack of telephony and internet problems in Samagaon.

  Jan 10: We are informed that a “powerful” avalanche has occurred in BC. The kitchen tent – supply tent and our tent are said to be damaged and the Sherpas are seriously impressed.

  Jan 11: The weather is nice and we’re going to see up to 4200m while we open the track back towards BC. To our great surprise, not much snow has fallen, a lot of snow has already melted and/or settled. We believe it may be possible to reach BC. We consult with the others who want to “try” while Alex, Simone, Chhepal are still comfortable in KTM, Pokhara or wherever. Apparently there are also some private groups that demand the necessary attention from Alex, just like his daily social media.

  Jan 12: We start very early and together with the Sherpa fixing team (without Pasang Rinzee) we manage to get back to the base camp! A tough climb where it is clear that most of the snow fell higher up and when we arrive BC turns out to be completely fine again.

  Jan 13: Since a longer period of good weather has arrived, we can’t resist opening the track to C1 again and going to look/feel the condition of the snow because in our opinion the added snow turns out to be much better than feared. Oswaldo and Stef lead the way and reopen the track to about 5300m and the snow conditions are not too bad. We inform the others about the conditions and ask to join us.

  Jan 14: The meteo is very windy (not so good to return to C1) and there is bad communication... again. The Gentlemen (Simone, Alex, Chhepal) flew over C1 with the helicopter and then landed in Samagaon. They believe the conditions are bad and will not come to BC. Chhepal will not be joining his team and our team and says they have enough time until February. So there is no rush (for them) and therefore none of the fixing Sherpas will climb higher. However, the weather is beautiful for the next few days. Weather forecast announced snow on the 18th, good weather on 19, but from the 20th it will be bad and uncertain for a longer period of time.

  Jan 15: We decide to go to C1 to see if we can get higher. Paula and Ming Temba lead the way and want to go along to get material from C1 because Paula no longer believes a positive sequel. Oswaldo takes his drone to film. Dawa C will join us at C1 as the fixing team remains in BC but thinks C2 is not feasible. At the traverse, the snow does not stick to the icy surface, which means that crampons are needed. This was not the case last time, forcing Oswaldo, Paula and Ming Temba to return. We (Stef, Dawa and myself) climb through what turned out to be a very tough undertaking because there is 1.50m of snow piled up until C1. We arrive around 4pm and need to dig out the depot to set-up the tents.

  Jan 16: We explore the icefall that makes us realize that we need more time and/or manpower and that a summit attempt is almost impossible in these circumstances. We return disappointed to C1 for the last night because on 20 Janaury a longer period of bad weather with lots of snow and wind starts. Oswaldo has come to C1 and is taking drone footage again.

  Jan 17: return to BC. Our return flight is initially planned for the 27th, but of the 10 days remaining, there are at least 7 days of snow. Also due to the lack of cooperation with the “leaders”/fixing team, who have time until Feb, a passage to C2 is not realistic.

  Jan 18: Return to Samagaon with Paula, Dawa Chhiri, Oswald and Simone. Here we say goodbye to everyone. Paula, Dawa and we flew on to Kathmandu afterwards.


expid: MARI21301
peakid: MARI
year: 2021
route1: SW Ridge from S
nation: S Korea
leaders: Koo Eun-Soo
sponsor: Korean Alpine Rescue Association Mariyang Expedition 2021
ascent1: 1st-2nd
approach: See route notes
bcdate: 2021-09-27
smtdate: 2021-10-09
smttime: 0940
termdate: 2021-10-13
campsites: BC(27/09,5150m),HC(05/10,5800m),Smt(09-10/10)
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal
routememo:
  Approach: Flew to Juphal via Nepalgunj, trekked to Dunai->Chepka->Jharana->Ringmo, Phoksumdo Khola camp->Pass Camp->Shey Gompa->Bhijeri->Pho->Nyimgma->Pung Kharka

  BC  27/09  5150m (below the south side rock face)
  HC  05/10  5800m (above the south side rock face)
  Smt 09/10  by Baek, Jung, Joung and Ongchhu Sherpa
  Smt 10/10  by Koo, Lim, Eom, Lee and Ongchhu Sherpa.

  Fixed rope: From BC to High Camp (200m) and above High Camp (140m, total 340m)

  Left BC on 13 October.

  Route: SW Ridge via southern snow wall.

  Records: 1st ascent.

  Other peaks: East peak summited on 10 October by Koo alone.

  The first team left HC at 4 am on 9 October and reached summit at 9:40 am. They stayed on the summit for 30 minutes and returned HC at about noon, continued to BC where they arrived at 3:30 pm. Strong wind at summit time, otherwise good weather with clear skies.

  The second team left HC at 4 am on 10 October and got to the summit at 9:10 am. They stayed on the summit for 20 minutes, back to HC around noon, then to BC where they arrived at 5 pm. Strong wind at summit.

  The team climbed the rock face east of the BC and put up the HC at 5800m little west of the rock face top of the wall, then traversed about 400m west. Climbed the snow/ice wall (70°) about 200m, then walked easy uphill SW Ridge to the summit. 

  ROH remained at the BC.


expid: OMIT21301
peakid: OMIT
year: 2021
route1: SE Face-W Ridge
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Luka Strazar
sponsor: Slovenian Chobuje Expedition 2021
ascent1: 2nd?
approach: By Jeep to Chhetchhet->Simagaon->Dongang->Beding->Na
bcdate: 2021-10-12
smtdate: 2021-10-23
termdate: 2021-10-31
othersmts: Summited Chobuje (CHOB-213-01)
campsites: BC(12/10,4100m),Biv1(14/10,5000m),Biv2(21/10,5100m),Biv3(22/10,5700m),Smt(23/10)
agency: Return: Luka Strazar - 3 Nov 2021 (SR)
primid: CHOB21301
routememo:
  First acclimatization climb: Omitso Go 6230m

  BC   12/10  4100m at Na village
  Biv1 14/10  5000m Yalung Ri BC
  Biv2 21/10  5100m by all 4 members, camped on glacier lake above Dudh Kunda
  Biv3 22/10  5700m slept at the saddle
  Smt  23/10  Omitso Go summit by all four members via easy snow ridge,
              then back down to 5700m. 


expid: OMRC21301
peakid: OMRC
year: 2021
route1: NW Face-NW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Stephane Benoist
sponsor: GEAN (Groupe Excellence d'Alpinisme National) Kantega Expedition 2021
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2021-10-08
smtdate: 2021-10-27
termdate: 2021-11-10
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to dangerous conditions, then suffered fatal avalanche at 5570m in descent
othersmts: Summited Cholatse (CHOL-213-01), summited Nare Ri Shar (6005m)
campsites: BC(08/10,3985m),ABC1(23/10,4600m),ABC2(24/10,4900m),Biv1(26/10,5650m),xxx(27/10,5900m)
agency: Pralhad Chapagain (Freelancer at Expes.com)
primid: KTEG21301
routememo:
  Plan to break up into 2 to 3 teams aiming for various goals: "Mingbo Eiger" North Face, Peak 6430m N Face (N summit of Kangtega), Cholatse North Face.


  GEAN (Groupe Excellence d'Alpinisme National) of French Alpine Club, leader Stephane Benoist.

  BC on 08/10 at 3985m (Pangboche).

  Acclimatization Climbs:

  Meanwhile, the rest of the team with Thomas Arfi, Louis Pachoud, Gabriel Miloche and Anouk Felix-Faure climbed the normal route (SW Ridge) of Cholatse.

  13/10: first climbing day. From 4000m, intended to make first bivouac on the glacier afoot of the col. Since they couldn't find a suitable place there (not being exposed to objective risks), the team climbed up instead directly to the col. Made a bivouac at 5600m, which happened difficult for acclimatization.

  14/10: had a "small day" further up on the ridge until a 5800m bivouac.

  15/10: made the round trip to the top, summiting between 1 and 2 pm. At first had been concerned by the weather, since last days' clouds were arriving at about noon. However on that day, they got clear sky conditions on the top.

  16/10: from the 5800m bivouac down to Thare village (4350m).

  17/10: back to BC.

  Primary Climbs:

  22/10: Unclimbed Omoga Ri Chang (in JK, 6070m; not an opened peak, but permit had been taken for nearby Kangtega). NW Face to NW Ridge. "Mingbo Eiger" is the name of NE Face, which looks like Eiger's N Face in the Alps; it's been christened by the Brits who first remarked the face (ref Victor Saunders, Paul Ramsden?).

  Thomas Arfi, Gabriel Miloche and Louis Pachoud intended to climb the NW-orientated broad couloir located on the left side of the W Face, then to follow the NW Ridge to the top (previous solo attempt of Andy Parkin? in ?). From there the duet had planned to down-climb the SW Ridge to the col (with Kang Tari, 6071m), then down-climb the steep NW couloir below it.

  Known details about the attempt:

  23/10: the trio reached the lower ABC (4600m).

  24/10: the trio walked further up till the bottom of the face, sleeping at the higher ABC (circa 4900-5000m) located nearby the start of the route (right bank of the main couloir).

  25/10: the trio took the whole day observing the face and its snow conditions from the higher ABC.

  26/10: first climbing day. Started at 2 am, climbing all day. At 17:11, they sent a SMS via their satellite phone to the other team climbing on Cholatse: "All right, long day, bivouac at 5650m, great gully. Now it's time for the ridge. Kiss". This was to be their last communication.

  Rescue details:

  30/10: Without any news of the trio since the 27th, an alert was launched by the trio following the climbers (weather forecast Nicolas Feraud, plus French climbers Damien Tomasi, Benjamin Guigonnet) to start a flying rescue operation, under the FFCAM aegis.

  31/10: In the morning, a survey heli-flight of Kailash Adventure crew (pilot Claudio Mittner) could fly to the place. The team could first spot the higher ABC tent; then see at the bottom of the NW couloir 1 bag and an ice axe lying on the surface of a vast avalanche debris; then the pilot went up the face, noticing an interruption of the climbing footprints at some stage, then above it the 5650m bivouac place; further up, the team spotted the trio's footprints going up to 5900m as a high point, then back down (the team had obviously passed the steepest section of the ridge already). At 5900m, the team had triggered an avalanche (snow slab, cornice...) on the NE Face, choosing to go back down by the same way.

  FFCAM statement detailed that the helicopter had: "spotted the tracks of the ascent, as well as the debris of a vast avalanche which had swept the face". It also mentioned that: "it spotted the [higher ABC] tent and landed nearby it. Finding no one, it took off again to watch the face and follow the ascent's tracks. The latter stop on the summit ridge at an avalanche' break circa 40cm thick. Here the footprints go back down until a bivouac place where the 3 alpinists likely slept. The footprints go further downwards for about a 100m. Then it stops at a gully from which an avalanche apparently triggered. The pilot went back down at the bottom of the face to discover an avalanche cone with two bags, one mattress and ice axes”.

  01/11: A Nepali rescue team involving Sonam Sherpa, Mingma Gyalje Sherpa, Vinayak J Malla, Ang Dawa Sherpa, Tshering Sherpa and Pemba Gyalzen Sherpa was helicoptered to try to find some potential survivors on the footstep of the face, but they found nothing except empty the aforementioned tents, bags and ice axes.

  The 5 remaining members of the GEAN expedition were helicoptered to the higher ABC, below the face, for a moment of silence.

  Then Stephane Benoist and Pierrick Giffard did a survey flight over the peak (with the same swiss pilot Claudio Mittner). It allowed to follow the footprints of the trio up to 5900m on the NW Ridge. At this place they saw the clear mark of the avalanche, as well as the footprints that the trio had left when turning back down. Circa 50m below the 5650m bivouac, they found a yellow snow stack, confirming that the trio had begun its descent. 30m below the same snow stack, at circa 5570m, they lost any signs of the trio, noticing that the snow here had disappeared for an ice slope instead – obviously the place from which the trio had fell to its death.

  The exact cause of the trio's fatal fall remains unclear: proper fall; snow slide coming from above; snow slab triggered at the 5570m place?

  The remnants of the upper and lower ABC were evacuated on this day.

  02/11: the team stayed in Pangboche, packing his gear.

  03/11: team flew from Pangboche to Kathmandu by helicopter.

  05/11: a French rescue team comprising experts of PGHM and former GEAN coach Christophe Moulin flew from Geneva to Nepal.

  07/11: the Nepali rescue team located the 3 bodies in the remnants of the avalanche, afoot of the face at circa 4900m under 1m of snow upstream and 0.5m downstream. On this afternoon, French Guy le Neve and Christophe Moulin reached the area.

  08/11: the 3 bodies were taken out from the avalanche on this day. The French rescue team begun to analyze the gear remnants and tie-in to understand the circumstances of the accident, an effort which would continue on the next day.

  10/11: the French rescue team made a reconstitution of the accident in its lodge at Namche.

  11/11: the French rescue team left Nepal.


expid: PANB21301
peakid: PANB
year: 2021
route1: ENE Face
nation: France
leaders: Jean Annequin
sponsor: French Panbari Expedition 2021
approach: Darapani->Tilje->Bimtang->Larkya La
bcdate: 2021-10-09
smtdate: 2021-10-15
termdate: 2021-10-17
campsites: BC(09/10,4750m),C1(12-13/10,5335m),C2(14/10,6345m),Smt(15/10)
achievment: 1st ski descent of Panbari
agency: Sherpalaya
routememo:
  BC  09/10  4750m
  C1  12/10  5335m (gps)
  C2  14/10  6345m (gps)
  Smt 15/10  by Jean Annequin, Loic Renart, Jean-Sebastien Knoertzer, Gilles Ciselet.

  Route: ENE Face (normal route, Japanese had used left glacier) 
  Fixed rope: None

  On the 15 Oct, the summit quartet went back down to C1 for sleeping.

  On the 16 Oct back to BC. Since the weather forecast announced a coming storm with a meter of snow, guides wanted the team to leave the mountain on the next day.

  The route was technically not demanding (maximum 35-40° slopes) and in excellent conditions (no crevasses). So that the climbers didn't require crampons or piolets (just ropes in the bags in case of), and could nicely play with their skis instead. It's the first ski ascent and descent of Panbari.

  Altitude of the summit was measured at 6983m with Annequin's GPS (7m precision). When Damien Tomasi attempted South Pillar of Panbari, Annequin like him weren't aware that this pillar was leading to the most western of the summits of the mountain.

  The team also climbed 2 little bumps above the plateau, one at 6480m, the other at a little below 6600m.

  The storm which came from 17 Oct basically reduced the time of the expedition, damaging the acclimatization plan of the team, so that only a few members of the team could summit.

  No member left BC before the end of the expedition.

  Left BC on 17 Oct.

  Members and high points:

    Jean Annequin, M, summited
    Gilles Ciselet, M, summited
    Jean-Sebastien Knoertzer, M, summited
    Loic Renart, M, summited

    Denis Bodard, M, C2 => col at c6400m, lack of acclimatization.
    Tristan Knoertzer, M, C2 => col at c6400m, lack of acclimatization.
    Eliott Moreau, M, C2 => col at c6400m, lack of acclimatization.
    Hughes Vincent, M,  C2 => col at c6400m, lack of acclimatization.
    Eric Fonteneau, M, maximum at C2 (slept there), had a bad night (limit of 
      cerebral edema), lack of acclimatization.
    Anne Nouvel de Owens, F, maximum at C2 (slept there), lack of acclimatization.
    Helene Grall, F, maximum at C2, lack of acclimatization.
    Laurent Grall, M, reached 6300m while installing C2, lack of acclimatization.
    Jean-Christophe Knoertzer, M, reached 6000m as his day goal, lack of
      acclimatization.
    François Schulz, M, reached 6000m as his day goal (1000m between 2 camps was
      too much for him), lack of acclimatization.
    Jean-Francois Morin, M, hurt his back a little above C1, while putting his skis.


expid: PURB21301
peakid: PURB
year: 2021
route1: W Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Jost Kobusch
sponsor: German Purbung Expedition 2021
ascent1: 1st
approach: Besishahar->Manang->Annapurna Trail->Thorung Phedi
bcdate: 2021-11-18
smtdate: 2021-11-30
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2021-12-02
othersmts: Summited Purkhung by Jost Kobusch (PURK-213-01)
campsites: BC(18/11,4450m),C1(21/11,5100m),C2(23/11,5450m),C3(29/11,5850m),Smt(30/11)
agency: Satori Adventures
routememo:
  BC  18/11  4450m (Thorung Phedi lodge)
  C1  21/11  5100m
  C2  23/11  5450m
  C3  29/11  5850m
  Smt 30/11  by both members at about 1 pm.

  Route: W Face from SW flank and NW glacier.

  Ascent done in pure alpine-style.

  Acclimatization was made while searching for the better/easier route solution to reach the summit.

  30/11: Started from C3. From the upper NW glacier, the duet chose to traverse the peak's W Face. Up via a col then the NW Ridge; down via the SW Ridge, then before reaching p.6335m, down via the W Race.

  Summit altitude measurements:

  2 measurements using a Garmin swatch (altitude based on pressure) showed 6480m and 6430m. 1 measurement using an Inreach device (altitude based on coordinates) showed 6515m. German Wikipedia mentions 6485m. Both members think it's correct, like circa 6480-6485m.

  Route's resume on Purbung: Alpine PD+ (2 in rock grade, 2 in ice grade), stamina/endurance, complicated/elaborate route (not obvious at all from Thorung Phedi). Some scramble (up to grade 2 in rock) from 5000m to 5200m. Some ice technics (grade 2) in the icefall from 5400m to 5500m. Summit went to be surprisingly steeper than expected, with sections at 70° avoided by snow sections up to 50° maximum.

  01/12: as Schweidtweiler was resting in C3 in the morning, Kobusch went for a quick roundtrip to the nearby top of Purkhung (PURK, 6126m), getting up to the top in 1:10 and down in 20 minutes. Route used was the SE Ridge, apparently unclimbed.

  02/12: left BC and to Besishahar the next day.


expid: PURK21301
peakid: PURK
year: 2021
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Jost Kobusch
sponsor: German Purbung Expedition 2021
approach: Besishahar->Manang->Annapurna Trail->Thorung Phedi
bcdate: 2021-11-18
smtdate: 2021-12-01
termdate: 2021-12-02
othersmts: Summited Purbung (PURB-213-01)
campsites: BC(18/11,4450m),C1(21/11,5100m),C2(23/11,5450m),C3(29/11,5850m),Smt(01/12)
agency: Satori Adventures
primid: PURB21301
routememo:
  C  18/11  4450m (Thorung Phedi lodge)
  C1  21/11  5100m
  C2  23/11  5450m
  C3  29/11  5850m
  Smt 12/01  by Kobusch

  01/12: as Schweidtweiler was resting in C3 in the morning after summiting Purbung, Kobusch went for a quick roundtrip to the nearby top of Purkhung (PURK, 6126m), getting up to the top in 1:10 and down in 20 minutes. Route used was the SE Ridge, apparently unclimbed.


expid: PUTH21301
peakid: PUTH
year: 2021
route1: NE Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Luis Stitzinger
sponsor: Furtenbach Adventures Putha Hiunchuli Expedition 2021
countries: UK
approach: Flight Nepalganj to Jupal; trekked via Dunai->Katkot to BC
bcdate: 2021-09-24
smtdate: 2021-10-04
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2021-10-06
campsites: BC(24/09,4940m),C1(27/09,5480m),C2(02/10,6038m),C3(03/10,6313m),Smt(04/10)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  BC  24/09  4940m
  C1  27/09  5480m (on moraine)
  C2  02/10  6038m
  Ca  03/10  6313m
  Smt 04/10  by Stitzinger, Keene, Kunga Sherpa, Thirendra Yakha at 1:30 pm.

  Summit team left C3 at 12:30 am. Weather was clear with a few gusts of wind. There was a lot of snow. The Sherpas were breaking trail and the snow was sometimes thigh deep. The steps did not stay firm. It was tough going. Minimal avalanche danger. Not a technical climb and it is certainly a skiable mountain.

  They spent about half an hour on the summit and descended to C3 where they arrived at about 5 pm. On 05/10 they descended to BC and left BC the next day.
  		
  Fixed rope:
    Between C1 and C2 100m
    From shoulder to col (about 40 degrees) 50m
    From fore-summit to summit about 50m

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C2 to summit to C2 by Keene
    From C3 to top to C3 by Sherpas
    Stitzinger did not use oxygen.


expid: ROKA20401
peakid: ROKA
year: 2020
route1: S Ridge to S Peak to Main Smt via SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: John Kelley
sponsor: Rokapi Winter Expedition 2020-2021
ascent1: 2nd
approach: See route notes
bcdate: 2020-11-20
smtdate: 2020-12-23
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2020-12-25
campsites: BC(20/11),ABC(20/12,4873m),Biv1(21/12,5297m),Biv2(22/12,5663m),Smt(23/12)
achievment: 2nd ascent of the main peak, 1st ascent via south route, 1st winter ascent
agency: Luxury Holiday Treks
routememo:
  Approach: Bus to Dhangdi, Jeep via Lama Bagar to  Makarighat, trekked onward Kandeswari, Ghajir, Chhetti, open camp at 3920m.

  Base camp put up and left climbing gears on 19 Nov at 4380m near the stream below the S Face of Kapchuli rocky field with patches of grass. Then went down to the open camp and slept there. That night Lieber left the camp.

  BC slept on 20 Nov.

  01 Dec went down to Chhetti spent night there. 

  02 Dec climbed up to BC. Snow falling for about a week.

  09 Dec hiked up to 4873m and left gears there and back to BC.

  20 Dec slept 4873m.

  21 Dec summit push to camp at 5297m.

  22 Dec camp at 5663m slept there.

  Summited South Peak of Kapchuli (6050m). Continued up to the South Ridge 6000m col between main peak and the sub-peak slept there. Next day 23 Dec started climbing at around 3:30 am and got to the summit between 4-4:30 pm. Weather was cloudy and some wind at the beginning it was clear sky. Stayed on summit for about 5 minutes. There is picture of going toward the summit, but no picture of summit due to dead battery. Back to col camp around 9 pm and slept there. Next day went down to BC.

  Left BC on 25 Dec.

  Route: S Face via S Ridge from the south peak side on south side.


expid: TENG21301
peakid: TENG
year: 2021
route1: S Ridge from south
nation: Latvia
leaders: Andris Zarins
sponsor: Latvian Tengkoma Peak Climbing 2021
countries: Norway
approach: Taplejung->Ghunsa->BC
bcdate: 2021-11-15
smtdate: 2021-11-17
smttime: 1010
campsites: BC(15/11,5150m),HC(16/11,5350m),Smt(17/11)
routememo:
  From Andris Zarins' Facebook (translated from Latvian)

  Hurray - our group in Nepal reached Tengkoma Peak 6215m! - 13-15/11/21:

  Ghunsa River valley, Jannu, Kangchenjunga Glacier, Pangpema - Northern Kangchenjunga base camp.

  Leaving Ghunsa village to climb again higher in Ghunsa valley, along the steep banks of Ghunsa river. Countless waterfalls are coming down from all sides. These are still the aftermath of the huge amount of snow that fell several weeks ago.
  Unfortunately, after the first half hour, one of the group members realizes that her health condition does not allow her to continue the way up, after a little discussion the decision was made for her to stay 3500m in Ghunsa and keep track of her health. Logistics, negotiations, goodbyes, the rest of us continue the journey.
  An interesting trail that is sometimes renewed, sometimes disappears. Several shrines each with its legends, where someone meditated and left an imprint in a stone, then some cave where 1000 pilgrims took refuge. Rhododendron forests are slowly disappearing and the shrub is becoming rarer. We have arrived at Kambachen 4050m - a settlement consisting of 3-4 lodges at the foot of Jannu 7711m. Jannu impressed with his northern wall - the Holy Mountain where the local sherpas refuse to climb for any reward. There have been many attempts to reach its peak, many have ended tragically.

  Next to the lodge settlement, the American WWF Foundation is building a research center. Something more clever than the existing lodges, but still Nepal made. Building for the second year, it is planned to be completed in a month, but there is no evidence of that.

  Working conditions are also challenging - 4000+m, currently +25C during the day, just when the sun disappears behind the mountain (15:00) it is +5!, at night -10C.

  After dinner, a little music evening when we operate the speaker Ilze brought along.

  Taking it easy this morning. Moving to new heights! All health condition excellent or as per existing conditions.

  The harsh nature of Himalayan mountains can be felt again. Let's continue to climb. Although the weather is sunny and clear, old snow can be seen all around and the cold is already more profound.

  The Slovak group has also shrunk to 4, because one participant has serious road problems over the years and it is no longer possible to go further. Along Ramdung and later the Kangchenjunga Glacier moraines, we reach the last lodge village Lhonak 4775m. Practically there are only two lodges here, one older with Flintstone stone stacking sheds, our younger - wooden, bright pink, fits in perfectly with the environment!

  In the afternoon, we climbed both up and down practically on Kangchenjunga Glacier, which is currently a huge mass of ice, rocks and dusty sand. Another sanctuary - a giant stone pole above a glacier that reminds of a special guard of this place. The pole has withstood multiple earthquakes and has not collapsed, making it automatically something magical.

  The evening passes calmly and you can see the mountain tops coloring in the pink tone of the sunset.

  Around 3:00 am outside begins to receive a strong wind blow, which is currently also inside the lodge room through the dilapidated walls. Unexpectedly and without warning! A first impression that it will impress our further progress. By the morning it is clear that the break will be substantial throughout the day, but it is not that it is impossible to pass. The wind rises up from the valley with great force, carrying the dust clouds from the dried mountain slopes. Dust is covered in everything, including the melting glacier seracs.

  Heading to Pangpema 5150m today - Kangchenjunga North Base Camp, the third milestone of our trek! On the way, the strong wind blows on the back, although sunny, yet the wind blows the heat away. Passing by our destination for the next days Tengkoma Peak, study it from all sides, there will be places to work. The beginning of the route could be along the steep western slope to High Camp, then along the rocky south slope to the snow area and end along the ice cap. How it will be in life - soon we will find out.

  Walking along the moraine uphill, a herd of mountain goats not particularly afraid of human presence as hunting is not allowed here. A beautiful white peak ahead - Nepal Peak 7177m, just as impressive is The Twins 7350m white floor and finally, from the south, Kangchenjunga range is slowly beginning to turn into a power beyond all foreseen. First you can see Kangchenjunga's highest peak at 8586m, later the Central peak at 8473m. However, the southern spike remains hidden behind Yalung Kang 7500m. Impressive ice seracs form the outskirts of the glacier and hang from steep slopes.

  We have reached Pangpema, shortly after the surplus of the Slovak group is also here. Their idea is to stay the night here and then walk the area.

  Pangpema consists of a few small stone sheds, that is all. There used to be a tea house owned by our Sherpa Nada, but it collapsed 5 years ago without enduring the earthquake. The wind is blowing in a major way. Being particularly late here does not make sense - group photos in numerous options and we turn back, now in the opposite direction. Walking down the hill in the headwind is tough.

  Pleased to have reached our third target and acclimatised well too.

  Walked 17km today with a total ascent of 1050m, all at an altitude of 4750-5150m. Someone has more exhaustion, someone less, in the evening we check the equipment again.

  Tomorrow we are going to Tengkoma High Camp to prepare for our final destination.

  Reaching the top of Tengkoma - 16-17/11/21:

  Another busy morning but a little more stressful this time, everyone trying to figure out what to take from the usual stuff to the mountain to leave. Some are not confident in their own strength, others take it easy. Thanks to the mountain gods who have calmed the wind and returned the mountain cold, which will be replaced by the sun in a day.

  It was colder tonight, the water bottle in the room completely frozen.

  9:30 finally ready to face the main challenge. At the beginning, along yesterday's trail along the moraine, then quickly climbing up the slope. Only Nada knows the true route, but it's also a approximate one. He's the only one who's been here 6 times, but landslides and weather always bring new surprises. Trying to hold it together all. The rocky slope is very steep and the height makes itself noticeable with every step. On the opposite side of the Kangchenjunga Glacier, a massive avalanche of snow mass is passing from one of the northern walls, a fascinating sight.

  13:30 we have arrived at High Camp 5350m. Nada has found a good shoulder on a steep slope, which is both wild enough and in the right wind. Once again we conclude how much the weather spoils! Yes, it's cold with the sun going down, but friggin cold.

  A tent camp is quickly being created, Travel-Lunch, boiling water, evening sunset, and of course a puddle! Puja of luck by Tserig at 5350m, great mantra chanting, Travel-Lunch rice rain over the gear and blessings. Now everything is in our own hands. 18:30 everyone is already in the tents and we are getting ready to start out tomorrow around 2:00 am. Looking forward to our strength and luck!

  The night is amazingly peaceful! No wind gusts, not any other sounds, except a non-falling snoring in one of the nearby tents. What a full moon!

  The cold has also moved aside somewhere! Maybe -5C outside, around 0C in the tent. Super!

  01:00 the activity begins, of course also the mantras.

  Janis' fatigue and old ailments, however, prevent him from continuing the climb. The rest of us are ready. Accompanied by Tsering and Nada at 2:30 leaving! We must immediately say that this climb is different from most others because we are completely alone on the mountain! No one can say when someone has stepped here before. Perhaps no one has been here for a couple of years, without Nada's knowledge we would not be able to find the right path to Tengkoma Peak. The climb is quite difficult, but ideal weather makes it particularly enjoyable, around -7C and a little wind. The first 3h in the moon and the light of the lanterns. Stone picking and piles, also snow, climbing, leaning. Surrounded by all the great and below the Kangchenjunga glacier chaos. Sunrise climbing can already be called excellent because of the vastness of this Himalayas views and the power of nature. The height makes you notice yourself and Ilze refuses to reach the peak.

  Last ~200m of snow removal, knee-deep crawling and deeper! Heavy, but probably it's even better than if there was a classic ice cream, which is mainly here when you should put the ropes and be delayed even longer. Once again we are lucky.

  10:10 we are up - Tengkoma Peak 6215m! Cleared the small top field out of the snow so everyone could fit. The panorama of the area is impressive! Rota, Maris, Oskars, both Andri, Tsering and Nada are taking pictures at the top! Greetings, hugs, black currant balm, a new string of Buddhist flags and countless pictures with an impressive panorama! Congratulations!

  Followed by a long and tiring climb, demolition of the camp and continuation of the descent to Lhonak lodge village.

  Strength has been given away a lot today, but the feeling of satisfaction is also there! In total, today 14h "worked" on the mountain. Everyone will have this event marked in their biographies.

  Tomorrow we celebrate the national holiday and also celebrate our success in the already known village of Ghunsa.


expid: TKPO21301
peakid: TKPO
year: 2021
route1: N Pillar (up), E Ridge (down)
nation: UK
leaders: Tom Livingstone
sponsor: British Tengkangpoche Expedition 2021
countries: Ireland
approach: Lukla->Namche->Thami->Thengbo
bcdate: 2021-10-05
smtdate: 2021-10-30
smttime: 1215
termdate: 2021-10-31
achievment: 1st ascent of N Pillar
agency: Dream Himalaya Adventures
campsites:
  BC(05/10,4360m),Biv1(24/10,5500m),Biv2(25/10,5500m),Biv3(26/10,5800m),Biv4(27/10,5900m),Biv5(28/10,6100m),Biv6(29/10,6200m),Smt(30/10)

routememo:
  BC   05/10  4360m (Thengbo Guest House and Restaurant)
  Biv1 24/10  5500m (start of the route at circa 4800m, moderately difficult day)
  Biv2 25/10  5500m (on this second day, climbed further up and came back at the 
                     same bivouac place, hard climbing day)
  Biv3 26/10  5800m (hard climbing day)
  Biv4 27/10  5900m (hard climbing day)
  Biv5 28/10  6100m (duet reached the top of the pillar, at the start of the 
                     final snowy ridge section on right-hand side of the pillar).
  Biv6 29/10  6200m (duet climbed halfway along the snow ridge and bivouacked there)
  Smt  30/10  by both members at 12:15 pm.

  Duet finished to ascend the long snow ridge to the top, reached at 12:15 pm. This same afternoon, the team climbed the E Ridge to a col, then down-climbed from the latter on north (Thame) side. Reached base camp in the evening. During the descent of the E Ridge, could see evidence of a recent climb (1 or 2 days fresh footprints, fixed ropes) coming from the south side (Bazin's team ? “Seems as if Sherpas had fixed some rope, then clients had come after”).

  Left BC on on 31st of october to Lukla (not possible to stay and relax in BC because of flight tickets).

  Acclimatization:

  Acclimatized while trekking to Tashi Lapcha pass. Didn't climb any other mountains.

  Ascent of the N(E) Pillar:

  7 days rount trip ascent, “one of the trickier things I've done”.

  “Massive attack”, about 1400m, proposed grade up to 5.11, A3, M7 (“With good lungs would be easier”). Difficulties involved hard mixed climbing (“ice-choked cracks”), difficult aid (“tricky aid up compact rock”. TL had hoped “never jumaring on a route” “but it was the most efficient method”, his first time doing it on such a big route), and a long snowy ridge to reach the top (“was classic himalayan snow, not much consolidated, reminding last summer's attempt on Pumari Chhish”).

  Waiting for Tom's line draw, showing bivouacs and key climbing sections.

  To be mentioned that the duet had had a 2 days attempt a week earlier to the actual ascent, which went up to circa 5600m, stopped by a fall of the leader (with just minor injuries).

  Previous recorded attempts of the N Pillar:

  2002, French, Herve Qualizza, N Pillar to NE Face to 6100m (difficulty of the 
        route)
  2002, Czech-Slovak, Radek Lienerth, N Pillar to 5400m (loose snow on rock)
  2004, French, Erwan Le Lann, N Pillar to 5200m (heavy snow)
  2006, Canada, John Furneaux, N Pillar to 5750m (deep snow)
  2019, Finland-Canada, Juho Knuuttila & Quentin Lindfield Roberts, N Pillar to 
        5930m (non-protectable route)
  2021, Canada-USA, Quentin Lindfield Roberts and Jesse Huey


expid: TKPO21302
peakid: TKPO
year: 2021
route1: NE Face-E Ridge (up), N Face (down)
nation: Italy
leaders: Francois Cazzanelli
sponsor: Italian Tengkangpoche-Ama Dablam Expedition 2021
approach: Lukla->Namche->Thami
bcdate: 2021-10-18
smtdate: 2021-11-04
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2021-11-06
othersmts: Attempted Tengi Ragi Tau South (TENS-213-01), summited Ama Dablam (AMAD-213-08)
campsites: BC(18/10,4300m),Biv1(02/11,5700m),Biv2(03/11,6100m),Smt(04/11)
achievment: 1st ascent of a double new route on Kongde Ri North Face
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC   17/10  4300m (nearby the lodge)
  Biv1 03/11  5700m
  Biv2 03/11  6100m
  Smt  04/11  by all members, except Bovard.

  Route: new route on N Face of Kongde Ri to E Ridge up; E Ridge to col, then N Face down.

  Other peaks: Thunder Peak, Yasa Thak, Ama Dablam

  Schedule:

  15/10: Lukla to Namche Bazar.

  16/10: Namche to Thami.

  17/10: Thami to BC, the latter chosen a little distant from the lodge (lodge was a too expensive solution, group fearing between some potential Covid cases, and enjoying to stay between friends).

  18/10: for its first acclimatization trip, the group went up to sleep at Tashi Lapcha (4300m to 5700m), knowing the weather would deteriorate on the next day with a good amount of snow.

  19/10: back to BC, everything covered by the fresh snow (down to 4000m).

  20/10: rest day.

  21/10: group went up “Thunder peak” (a 5300m trekking peak on the map). Looking at TKPO, saw Tom Livingstone already climbing on the N Pillar; the intended NE Face didn't look yet in good condition; the group spotted a 6200m peak in front whose N Face seemed potentially attractive.

  22-23/10: the group split into 2 groups in order to ascend Yasa Thak (6141m on Finn map, SE shoulder of Tengi Ragi Tau, peak without permit; Schneider map 6180m, 6187m on other map; also called Tengi Ragi Tau South, or Pahamlahaka).  

  The first group (Cazzanelli, Favre, Gheza) climbed a SE Pillar to a shoulder of the E Ridge, located at c.6000m ESE to the top (from this shoulder, the last bit to the top consisted in a large snow ridge). Route name: “Himalayanos Desperados” (1200m/5+/M5/80°). Enjoyed good rock quality during the climb, with 2 pitches up to 5+ (French rock grade) on first day. Also found 4 pitons obviously put as descent belays (a previous rope had tried the route?). Put a bivouac above that. Had considered the option of staying on the pillar up to the top, but there was a lot of snow, a perturbation announced and it would have meant an other bivouac which the team couldn't afford. So instead, on the second day, the trio chose to turn right into the SE Face to find some quick going mixed ground. As the trio had almost reached the end of the traverse to start with the SE Face, a spontaneous cornice fall followed by rock falls was close to hit them. The would descend in the tracks made by their friends on the E Ridge. Cazzanelli thinks the route could become a local classic, offering a nice climb on good rock close to the lodge.

  Meanwhile the 3 other members had been up by the E Ridge, after having put a camp afoot of the ridge. Reached the same 6000m shoulder, after having broken the trail in big amounts of snow. Even triggered a big avalanche in which they luckily just lost some walking sticks. Delicate snow conditions.

  After a short study, it seems that the pitons found on the SE Pillar may have left whether by Radek Lienerth and Alexandr Toloch during the first ascent of “Tengi Ragi Tau South” in 2002.

  Czech duet had opened “Like a Dhal Bhat“ (1700m/ED/7-/75°) from 21 to 23 October 2002 (TKPO-023-01).

  https://james.sk/jclshow.asp?Id=365

  https://docplayer.cz/17617599-Uvodnik-2-zdenka-sturcova-roz-dil-2-vojtech-dvorak-a-o-tom-to-cely-vlastne-je-4-radek-lienerth-haute-route-9-jiri-a-klara-kocarovi.html

  Or it could have been left by the French team which repeated the route in 2004 (TKPO-043-01): “Then all three members (French Erwan Le Lann, Jean-Marc Clerc, Martial Dumas) went to small peak north-northwest of Tengkangpoche on opposite of valley: Point 6180m on Schneider Khumbu map; local name is Pamamla Haka. Climbed SE Ridge to 6100m, not to top because "not interesting" flat snow; down East Ridge. At high point on 21 Oct with one biv on way up and another down”.

  => The French trio had repeated the Czech route (as mentioned in the AAJ link below), and this in very similar description than the Italian team in 2021 (also stopping at the shoulder).

  Same year 2004 occured the first ascent of “Le sourire de Migma” on the nearby SW Pillar, by an other French team (Herry, Vimal, Potard...):

  http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200538902

  In 2005, this route is again mentioned in AAJ:

  http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200641300/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-Himal-Rolwaling-Himal-Tengi-Ragi-Tau-East-First-Ascent-of-Peak-Via-South-Pillar     
  24-25/10: rest days.

  26/10: first day of climbing on the TKPO. The plan changed a bit: they would keep the start left to the N Pillar, then go straight up via the NE Face to the E Ridge (initally thought to tackle the N Pillar from its NE side half way up). For this day and the next two, the members would make daily round trips from BC. On this day, went up to a high point at circa 4800m. Found remnants of gear from old French expeditions (pitons, spits).

  27/10: reached 5000-5100m. At 4900m, had a delicate 60m pitch in typical Scottish climbing (frozen grass on rock) with only 3 protection points.

  28/10: reached 5500m. As they were traversing a broad couloir to reach a sheltered small islet located between two couloirs, a big serac broke down from TKPO summit and fell down in a huge avalanche. The 4 climbers (Cazzanelli, Gheza, Perruquet, Ratti) had just enough time to hide below a small roof, when their 2 friends at BC thought them dead. Went back down to BC and canceled the attempt on that day.

  Cazzanelli noticed that the straight option they used saw every day avalanches. They also had to break trail in minimum knee deep' snow, making them very slow. The initally planed solution to come back to the N Pillar seems possible via a dihedral. Line is feasible if starting earlier in the season.

  Was nice to look at Livingstone and Glenn climbing up TKPO in big wall style.

  29/10: rest day.

  30/10: Cazzanelli, Perruquet and Ratti went up to look at Kongde Ri N Face conditions. The latter were completely different and felt attractive.

  31/10,01/11: rest days.

  02/11: on this day, the team split into two parties high up the Kongde Ri North face. Francois Cazzanelli and Leonardo Gheza opened “Santarai” (450m/AI5 R/M7/A2), when leftwards Francesco Ratti, Emrik Favre and Jerome Perruquet opened “Settebello” (450m/AI5/M7/A2). Conditions were pretty cold, with no sun, so that teams had to climb some sections in aid (2 pitches for “Santarai”) to be more efficient.

  The whole team joined on top of the face for its first bivouac (5700m).

  03/11: the team crossed the E Ridge across Kongde Ri various tops until reaching the footstep of TKPO's proper E Ridge. GPS on this day shew 5800-6000m maximum for various tops of Kongde Ri (Kongde Nup, Sur, Ri...), the group eventually not understanding where the proper summit was (one of these tops was slightly higher, looking like Mont Blanc du Tacul summit, covered with prayer flags, apparently put by expeditions coming from the south side).

  Had a second bivouac at 6100m.

  04/11: the team climbed the E Ridge to the top of TKPO, reaching the summit at in perfect weather. Saw fixed ropes of French Bazin team up to 6200m, stopping here as the ridge was becoming sharper. After that crossed a plateau, then up the ridge again (where they noticed 2 people descending footprints).

  The team down-climbed to its bivouac vicinity, then took the route down the N Face. Needed 2 abseils and tricky down-climbing to come back down to BC.

  Roger Bovard didn't feel in shape, so stayed in BC.

  06/11: group left BC, going back to Namche Bazar.

  07/11: rest day at Namche.

  Leonardo Gheza and Francesco Ratti flew back to Italy. The rest went to Ama Dablam.

  Cazzanelli will likely come back to Nepal in spring 2022 for a 6000er or 7000er (maybe Kimshung ?).


expid: TKPO21303
peakid: TKPO
year: 2021
route1: E Ridge from south
nation: France
leaders: Serge Bazin
sponsor: French Team on Tengkangpoche 2021
approach: Lukla->Khumjung->Thami->Lumding La->Lumding Tsho BC
bcdate: 2021-10-12
smtdate: 2021-10-22
termdate: 2021-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due lack of lack of time and equipment
campsites: BC(12/10,4850m),C1(14/10,5158m),C2(18/10,5650m),xxx(22/10,6200m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Approach: Lukla, Khumjung, Thami, Lumding La (south of Kwangde)

  BC  12/10 4800m-4900m, halfway between Lumding Tsho Og and Lumding Tsho Teng lakes
            (southeast of TKPO)
  C1  14/10 5158m (Finn Map) at Lumding Tsho Teng (put just 2 tents there)
  C2  18/10 5600m-5700m at the col afoot of the E Ridge
  HPt 22/10 6200m on E Ridge by Marius Lombard and Alexis Profit.

  Fixed rope: 60-70m on a serac section of the East Ridge.

  Climb abandoned on 22 Oct due to lack of time and equipment (fixed rope).


  Acclimatization:

  Members used different acclimatization schedule.

  Bazin and Dawa Sherpa (sirdar) hiked to Sunder Peak (5350m, northwest of Thami across valley from TKPO) from Thami (+1900m of ascent). Dawa Sherpa earlier had made the reconnaissance of the Lumding Tsho Teng conditions for the expedition.

  Attempt details:

  20 years old project of Serge Bazin, back to an ascent of Kongde Ri with client (not in the HD). Back then, the Lumding Tsho Teng’s level was too high to allow a crossing towards Tengkangpoche’s East Ridge. The only solution would have been to get a boat to cross the lake.

  The expedition schedule got basically perturbated by a 1m fresh snow fall at 5000m, following a monsoon queue episode. So that on 12 Oct, the team couldn’t fix its BC properly at Lumding Tsho Teng, but in haste at some platform below it. From there, needed to wait 4 more days before being able to start with the proper climbing, from the end of the lake into the ramp (on the 16 Oct, reached hallway way of the ramp).

  The route chosen from the Lumding Tsho Teng was the logical right to left ramp reaching the col afoot of the TKPO East Ridge (alpine grade PD). E Ridge section afterwards was technically harder, and long.

  Reached 6200m on the East Ridge, stopped by cold and wind at the narrower section of the ridge. Would have needed more time and a 200m roll of fixed rope to equip the section.

  Possibility to establish a further camp on the E Ridge at a plateau at 6100m. Here hadn’t time to make it.

  Porters came back on the 23 Oct for emptying the BC on the day after.

  Access: the hike until the Lumding La and until Yak Kharka of Lumding Khola valley is easy. However from there, the section until 200m below the Lumding Tsho Og (glacial lake) is fairly difficult (not a hike) and can become a trap in case of snowfall. So that the team this time fixed 50m of fixed rope in a chimney for the porters, which stayed the time of the expedition before being removed on descent.


expid: AMAD22101
peakid: AMAD
year: 2022
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Taiwan
leaders: Chan Chiao-Yu
sponsor: 8K Expeditions Ama Dablam Expedition 2022
countries: Australia, Hungary, Morocco, Netherlands, Norway, Peru, Poland, Romania, Spain, USA
bcdate: 2022-03-28
smtdate: 2022-04-02
campsites: BC(28/03),C1,C2,Smt(02,05,09,21,24/04)
agency: 8K Expeditions
routememo:
  The Sherpa rope-fixing team members were supplied by 8K Expeditions and summited on 2 Apr.


  Report from Tri-Fish Chan:

  Approach: Gokyo->Pangboche->BC

  BC  28/03  4530m
  C1  30/03  5700m
  C2  04/04  6100m
  Smt 05/04  by Chan and Chhiring Namgyal Sherpa at 10:30 am.

  After the summit descened to C2 and on 06/04 down to BC.

  Left BC on 07/04 by helicopter back to Kathmandu. On 11/04 Chan took a helicopter to Annapurna 1 BC.

  Sherpa:
    Chhiring Namgyal Sherpa, Solukhumbu, 26 years old


  Garth Miller and Prem Magar were clients of SST on 8K Expeditions permit.

  Aldo Guerrero and his client Maarten de Klerk approached via Tengboche to Island Peak to Ama Dablam BC with plans to continue on to Baruntse after their AMAD climb.

  Jannicke Dahl and Thomas Lone suffered from infections and bad weather near the end of April. Dahl was infected at BC and did not attempt to climb. Lone attempted to climb alone, but was stricken at C2 after climbing from BC in one day. He made a summit attempt the next day, but was too weak to go beyond the C3 site.


  Report from Dhal's Instagram page:

  There was no Ama Dablam on me.

  In base camp I got an infection, which is very difficult to get rid of at this altitude. The body was completely exhausted and after spending 4.5 hours on a 3-hour trip to base camp, we had no doubts. A top push for me would be indefensible.

  Normally we would have gone down to a lower village to rest and let our bodies gather strength to recover. But this time the weather was against us. The weather forecast threatened strong winds, whiteout and extreme amounts of snow 3 days after arriving at base camp. We had to reverse our entire plan and make a risky choice:

  Cancel the summit or send Thomas alone solo?

  Thomas wanted to try! And at 3:00 a.m. that night, he got up to hit the summit. He had bad time and had to skip High camp + Camp 1 and go all the way to camp 2 in one stage. That means heavy climbing up to 1300 meters in height and people in the base camp shook their heads when he confidently threw his 30 kg rucksack on his shoulders and started his ambitious journey towards the top.

  Already 12 hours later he reached C2! And proved again that he is at the top of climbers.

  Unfortunately, he developed a fever overnight, with symptoms similar to what I had. He therefore spent a day in C2 before attempting the summit, but after spending 4.5 hours up to C3 he realized that his body was too weak and that something was wrong. He was alone on the mountain and made the mature choice to turn around.

  I heard on the walkie-talkie that he was really sick and felt my stomach tighten. I therefore packed my daypack and climbed 1000m to meet him, follow him down to base camp and carry the 30 kg bag for him. After 9 hours we finally met on the mountain, in fog and snow. Tears welled up in both of our eyes and we began the descent together. Thomas was mentally fit, but I have never seen such a feverish and exhausted body before. It cut my heart every time we passed a possible tent site and Thomas pointed to the ground. I saw how much pain he was in but he continued to push down. We both know being sick at altitude is dangerous. 15 hours after I left base camp we were finally safely down again.


  Report from Vitaliy Musiyenko:

  BC  18/04  4700m
  C1  19/04  5800m
  C2  20/04  6000m
  Smt 21/04  by Musiyenko and Mestre at 12:18 pm.

  Left C2 at 5:45 am, summited at 12:18 pm, stayed about 1 hour on summit, then descended to C2. Climb went well and descent went well. Returned to camp in about a 10-hour round trip (from C2 to summit and back). No Sherpas, no oxygen.

  "We used Ama Dablam as acclimatization for Nuptse, so we actually spent one more night at C2 and on the following day (04/23) hiked down and all the way back to Chhukung.


expid: AMAD22102
peakid: AMAD
year: 2022
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Dominic Asselin
sponsor: Attitude Montagne Friends Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 2022-04-03
smtdate: 2022-04-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to exhaustion
campsites: BC(03/04,4530m),C1(07/04,5800m),C2(09/04,6000m),xxx(15/04,6700m)
agency: Friends Adventure Team
routememo:
  Reports from Dominic Asselin (Attitude Montage FB page):

  11 April

  Preparations for the final push are almost complete and Ama Dablam team will soon see the top of this mythical mountain. The team also lost a combat warrior who joined base camp and won't be in the final push.

  "The two days at altitude were intense!" 4 out of 6 members were at Camp 2. Daniel and Isabelle stayed at camp 1. Daniel to regain strength but Isabelle unfortunately suffered a severe acute mountain sickness coupled with a cold. She still spent the second scheduled night at camp 1 since the descent to base camp at the end of the day (reministering, the moraine crossing -bolders- and 1300m of elevation) would have taken too much energy. It's really in these moments that we see the mutual help. A team. The next day, everyone took Isa's gear to enable him to go back down to relief base camp!

  That's the end of the adventure to the summit for her, but she's coming out very proud and now hoping to sort out the cold and especially the cough (family and friends she's doing well despite everything! ). Otherwise, the last two days of base camp have done the team great good. Rest, shower, nap, hearty meal! Tomorrow is the start for the last stretch on the mountain. Date planning in Nepal: April 12 Camp 1, April 13 Camp 2, April 14 Rest day Camp 2, on the night of April 14-15 Summit and back to Camp 2 (ideally Camp 1) - Day 15-20, April 16 Back to Camp basic! The efforts required will be superhuman for the next few days! Think good for our mountaineers!"

  21 April

  11:20 pm the dial rings it's time to prepare for the two biggest days of the expedition. The frimas of the tent falls with every move. The temperature outside feels good At midnight five it’s time for me to go in the lead with the first part of the group The Grey Tower, the first section to cross, is a succession of vertical rock climbing passages with rather loose blocks. The risk of dropping it on the rest of the team is a high probability, so we have to climb the 175 meters of the tower as quickly as possible as the others wait in the dark and cold for us to finish. What at this altitude and at night is a real challenge.

  We then attack the mushroom stop, which is a succession of snow and rock paths intertwining vertical and cross sections exposed on anchors of ice and snow. It's at this moment in the dark that the weather decides to show us this so it can. Temperature is dropping drastically and the wind is picking up. The fight against the cold has just begun.

  Coming to camp 3, the rope disappears under the ice. Impossible to get around this 15 meter section. So Matthew and I start the long digging work to get this one free. Twenty minutes later and hanging on the rope, the ice is melting and the anchor is slipping, which gives me a little shivering, fortunately the anchor is still holding on, in pain and misery, and I stop slipping. Once up, I rest the latter in the safest way possible so the crew can track me.

  We pass the old camp 3 where abandoned tents accumulate and we enter the summit cone through a spilling crevice that will unfortunately be the end of Jonathan and Daniel's ascent, with the help of our assistant guides will give everything to succeed this passage in vain. So they shall return to camp 2

  My part of the team continues to climb to the top, burnout is starting to set in and Vincent is slowing it down. Mathieu and I find ourselves waiting repeatedly in the cold and wind to the point where my four jackets and my gore-tex are no longer enough to keep me warm.

  Still, we continue the climb.

  Near the summit, Vincent joins us. It's clear in his eyes that he can't keep this pace up and go down without risk. At the same time I get a radio call that Pierre is not doing well. He's exhausted and can't do these manipulations anymore. 

  Mathieu and I look each other in the eyes, our decision was made. Heading back 80 meters from the summit.

  I join Pierre and our assistant guide asks me to take care of him. He's clearly not well, but Pierre is showing strength and seems able to carry on the downhill by himself. After a while nothing goes right He's having trouble manipulating his way down recall. So I'm taking over all the manipulation for him. Seven hours later we are heading back to camp 2, tired but happy to be there.

  Shortly after we arrived, Pierre asks me to come see him in his tent. Eight of his fingers are starting to blacken. At the moment, it's hard to understand what happened, frostbites don't turn black immediately, normally. I rate it out Our only solution will be to go down to base camp and reevaluate the situation the next day. Exhausted we are spending the night in camp 2

  The next day we pack up all the gear and head to base camp crushed underweight. Reminders of the yellow tower, exposed crosses, big rock walks, helping Pierre pass the sections. After 10 hours of descending, we finally made it to base camp.
  Exhausted and happy.

  The next day, Peter's fingers didn't get any better, despite what he told me. He's too strong. I ask him to choose the option of evacuation for his own good. The chopper arrives, the tears flow and Pierre takes off in the air. We just got deprived of some team force time.

  Two days, 46 km walking, 3053 meters negative, 1363 meters positive elevation, a flight to Kathmandu and we're finally back to civilization and reunited with Peter. After 3 days in the hospital, he couldn't wait to see us. His fingers are still black, but he's fine. There's still some misunderstanding as to what happened to him. A mixture of frost and too high blood pressure that stopped the blood from reaching to his fingertips. This should be alright with time.

  We didn’t make it to the top of the mountain, but everyone did and more.


expid: AMAD22103
peakid: AMAD
year: 2022
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Greece
leaders: Michail Zygomanis
sponsor: Top Himalaya Guides Ama Dablam Expedition 2022
countries: Australia, France, UK, USA
bcdate: 2022-04-29
smtdate: 2022-05-05
smttime: 1148
termdate: 2022-05-08
campsites: BC(29/04,4500m),C1(02/04,5800m),C2(04/04,6000m),Smt(05/05)
agency: Top Himalaya Guides
routememo:
  Report from Cyrille Vuidel:

  Approach: Phakding, Namche, Machhermo, Gokyo, Gokyo Ri climbing on 21 Apr, Lobuche via Chola Pass, Ever BC, Gorak Shep, Kalapattar, Lobuche East summit on 27 Apr, Pheriche, Pangboche.

  BC  29/04
  C1  02/05  5800m
  C2  04/05  6000m
  Smt 05/05  by Vuidel, Vasey, Dukchung Lama and Wangja Bhote.

  Vuidel, Vasey, Dukchung Lama and Wangja Bhote started their summit push at 23:48 hrs on 04 May. They reached the summit at 11:48 hrs on 5 May. Stayed on the summit for about 20 minutes; it was bit cloudy, otherwise fair weather. They returned C2 at 10 pm and next day 6 May down to BC. The two summiters went to Chhukung, Island Peak BC and summited it on 10 May, back to Chhukung. Climbed Chhukung Ri by Vuidel alone. Then came to a village after Tengboche, Namche, Lukla.

  Carter’s high point was C1. He did not want to go up due to bad weather forecast.

  Vuidel said that they were blocked for 1-2 hours by the SST's 3 climbers and 7 Sherpas on their way up.

  Carter left BC on 3 May and the rest on 8 May.

  Sherpas above BC: 2

  Fixed rope: Used already there.

  Other peaks: Lobuche East on 27 Apr by all three; Island Pk on 10 May.


  Raina Lal was a High Himalaya Adventure [??] client on the Top Himlaaya Guides permit.


expid: AMAD22104
peakid: AMAD
year: 2022
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Christopher Pope
sponsor: Snowy Horizon Ama Dablam Expedition 2022
countries: Austria, Canada, Chile, India, Iran, Nepal, Netherlands, Poland, USA
smtdate: 2022-04-11
campsites: BC,C1,C2,Smt(11/04)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  Blog from Victor Zavala (Chilean-Polish team of Zavala and Sebastien Janus):

  APPROACH TO THE CB
  To reach the base camp (BC) of this hill, I had to go through different villages along the route for 5 days: Phakding (2610m), Namche Bazaar (3440m) and Pangboche (3985m) respectively, making a great part of the same route as the BC of Everest. I was staying in hostels, known locally as tea houses. Along the route I was discovering the Nepalese culture and its customs: for example, the porters carry 30 kg or more of load only using their head as a supporting force; suspension bridges are filled with colorful flags; buddha eyes in the "stupas" they are always watching you; yaks are typical on the route and every morning the alarm clock is given by some monk reciting his prayers at the top of his lungs.

  The first few days it was difficult to get used to the food, which stands out for its multiple spices and spicy flavor. When I thought that everything was in order, the meat of some momos (similar to dumplings) played a trick on me. I got sick to my stomach for several days, staying in the CB and thinking that the promotion would have to be left for another opportunity.

  HILL UP!
  Before setting off, Phura Sonam Sherpa did a short traditional ceremony with fire and Nepali chants while we threw rice into the air, hoping that the mountain would give me permission to access such a noble place that gives everything and asks for nothing in return.

  Once I started the walk, I had little energy and my backpack was around 33 kg: I was carrying a lot of weight, since I had to carry water, because I understood that in both camps (C1 and C2) there was none. Then I realized that I was not going to make it to C1: my physical conditions were far from optimal, so I set up a makeshift camp at 5050m where there was a patch of snow. After setting up the tent, I saw someone coming down: it was a local Sherpa Ongchhu Tamang, who told me that in C1 and C2 there was some snow and ice; I would no longer have to carry all the water. In addition, he added: “No summit this season, no one”.

  The next day I arrived at C1 just in time: a Canadian team was leaving and I managed to chat with their 2 Sherpas and the team leader. In this way I understood a little more about the route, its difficulties and the state of the ropes. This team was the one that had gone the farthest in the season (more than the Americans and English), close to 6600m, surpassing the Dablam serac, but they returned because many already had serious symptoms due to the altitude, in addition to the considerable physical fatigue.

  The path from C1 to C2 is a very narrow ridge; you constantly had to traverse very carefully and then the vertical climb began. The crux of the route was the famous "Yellow Tower" which was a grade 5.9 rock climb of approximately 15 meters. It sounded very easy when I read it months ago, but at the time it was very different, not because of its exposure (which was undoubtedly considerable), but because everything changes when you have a backpack weighing 20 kg, double boots and you are at 6000 meters tall trying to breathe. Once I got to C2, I kept repeating to Seb the following: "Drink, eat, sleep". It was around 2:00 pm and he had to be asleep as soon as possible; the next day would come the long-awaited attack on the summit, where we planned to leave at 00:00 on April 18.

  HEADING TO THE SUMMIT
  Day 14: the clock read 00:00 and I was ready to go. My breakfast? A little juice and 1 peanut-white triton cookie, a nutritional disaster.

  The first challenge was the Grey Tower: a mass of approximately 250m of altitude that had to be climbed in its different modalities. After several vertical sections of 15m and 2 hours without resting, I was half-way up the Grey Tower. From then on the rock was dressed in a layer of frozen water, starting ice climbing, with a lot of sections that were between 80-90 degrees.

  Once I got around the Grey Tower, I got to C3. Finally, a plain and the first break to drink and eat something while looking up: a large gutter of snow and ice at 60-70 degrees, where you had to go around the “Dablam” serac on the right. Once we passed the serac, we were close to 6600m. The clock read close to 10:00 and Seb said "I have 2 kids at home, I'm worried I won't be able to make it back". So I replied that there was little left and that everything was in the mind, that he should not give up. After a couple of minutes, Seb made the final decision: "I'm going down". From this moment I continued my ascent and there was no longer any trace, in a couple of meters the ropes disappeared and I continued in "free solo".

  Everything was going well until suddenly I had to stop abruptly: there was a huge crack. I looked to the left, to the right and saw no way to face it; the ropes were meters below the crack, something strange had happened here. Skip? Impossible, it was too wide (about 6m) and, furthermore, it was completely uneven. I thought of all these options in a couple of seconds and I knew that the correct answer destroyed me inside: "there is nothing to do, this is my summit", I did everything humanly possible, I was 19 meters away, I think it is at the discretion of each one whether it is a summit or not, for me the hill was already done. After composing myself a bit, I thought: "I am the only one who has managed to get here this season, not even the gringos, English or Canadians could".

  After 11 hours at full speed I was very tired; I had to de-climb 200 meters to be able to reach the ropes and rappel the remaining 600m. I looked up at the sky and saw my greatest fear: a sea of clouds rapidly approaching that would take away all my visibility for the descent; I had to get to the fixed ropes as quickly as possible. In 1 hour I was in C3, I couldn't see anything around me and I was exhausted, I just thought: "follow the ropes and in a couple of hours you will be safe in C2, hold on". In the middle of the endless rappels, I saw the C2 on the horizon. I zombie-walked the remaining traverse and saw Kami outside the tent he greeted me with a smile. "I'm destroyed", I told him. It didn't give more. He laughed and we talked for a while. I reported that he was fine via Inreach; I got into the sack and forgot everything.

  THE MEETING
  Once I got back to the BC, the lead Sherpa from the 8K Expeditions agency showed up: he was looking for me. He told me to take a tour of the BC tomorrow to meet with the Sherpas from the other agencies and see what measures could be taken regarding the crack, while he repeated to me "coffee, food, whatever you need just tell us". Then I asked him directly if he considered that I had reached the summit, despite the fact that I was a few meters away from the crack, to which he replied: "You summit, no one could make it better, don't worry", leaving me a little more calm and revitalizing my confidence.

  The next day, I entered a tent and in a couple of minutes I was surrounded by the leading Sherpas from each of the agencies, 8K Expeditions, Seven Summits, Friends Adventure, among others. I managed to transmit all the information about the route about 6600m, the absence of ropes, the state of the snow/ice and the crack that prevented the summit, to which we came to the conclusion that in the best case a helicopter would fly over the area, seeing if there was any pass more to the left or right of the sector. However, the weather was not good, so the only thing left was to look from below with binoculars. We also evaluated the option of carrying a ladder; of course, the portage would be complex and would take time, the problem being that the expeditions would start their ascents soon. Regardless of this, the only thing that was clear to us was that, if they wanted to carry their customers safely, there was at least 200 meters of rope missing from the route. A couple of Nepali words came and went; Then someone grabbed the radio giving a couple of orders and everything was resolved: all the necessary rope would arrive tomorrow.


expid: AMAD22105
peakid: AMAD
year: 2022
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Silvestro Franchini
sponsor: Snowy Horizon Ama Dablam Expedition 2022
countries: Canada, Croatia, Ireland, Japan, UK, USA
smtdate: 2022-05-04
smttime: 1100
campsites: BC,C1,C2,Smt(04/05)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  Report from Silvestro Franchini:

  Franchini reached summit in one go from BC. He left BC at 3 am on 4 May and reached the summit at 11 am. He stayed on summit for about 10 minutes and back to BC at 6 pm. At the time of summit, weather was good with little cloud and while descending there was little storm. On 3 May Franchini and Monfaroini went up close to C1 and back to BC. They trekked back to Namche, then went to Gokyo, Kalapattar before heading towards Lukla.

  Franchini and Monfaroini were Monterosa clients on the Snowy Horizon permit.

  Dean, Muskett and O'Connell (a single team) were Monterosa clients on the Snowy Horizon permit.


expid: AMAD22106
peakid: AMAD
year: 2022
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Finland
leaders: Sanna Raistakka
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Ama Dablam Expedition 2022
countries: France
approach: Jeep to Tamdanda, trekked to Island Peak
bcdate: 2022-04-23
smtdate: 2022-05-05
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2022-05-08
campsites: BC(23/04,4530m),C1(25/04,5700m),C2(5980m),Smt(05/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides on Snowy Horizon permit
routememo:
  BC  23/04  4530m
  C1  25/04  5700m
  C2   --    5980m
  Smt 05/05  by Raistakka, Belissent at 1 pm.

  Team started from BC on 03/05 and spent 04/05 in C1. They started their summit push at 11:30 pm on 04/05 from C1. Conditions were snowy. Part of the Yellow Tower was covered in ice. The rest of the route was pretty icey. There were new fixed ropes.

  They spent about 35 min on the summit and descended to C1 where they arrived at about 8:15 pm. On 06/05 everyone down at BC.

  Left BC on 08/05 walking to Tamdanda; Belissent flew from Lukla

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used

  Sherpas: None


expid: AMAD22108
peakid: AMAD
year: 2022
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Juan Arres Segovia
sponsor: Dream Carrier Ama Dablam Expedition 2022
countries: Russia, Slovakia, USA
termnote: Abandoned at 5600m due to bad weather
campsites: BC,C1(5600m),xxx(mid-April)
agency: Dream Carrier Treks
routememo:
  From Maksim Davydik Instagram account:

  Our tents scattered out on the steep slopes of camp 1 at Ama Dublam like little boats in a raging storm. An altitude of 5860 meters. There are no even plots, and the mere movement around the camp is like lasagna on slippery frozen rocks. There is no water, we were drowning from the snow. Going to the bathroom in order not to spoil the snow (in our case, snow equals drinking water) near someone else's tent is impossible, so we had to use... empty plastic bottles . At night, a severe storm hit and the temperature in the tent dropped to minus 20. One of the coldest nights I've ever had. There are 1000 meters left to the top, we make a jump up to 6000, but further it is a technically difficult part, which is impossible to pass in the current weather conditions. The ropes are frozen, visibility is zero, the stones are slippery, wind and snow blow into the face. So the difficult decision was made to go down to base camp since camp 1 is not a safe place to stay for long. In order to get to camp 1, much more to get off it, I had to go through a dangerous technical section of steep rocks on the overrails. The dulphir descent caused a lot of problems because the ropes were covered with a thick skin of ice, which blocked the normal functioning of my device (descender). I had to peel the ice with my bare hands by taking off my gloves (they were wet and slippery). And here's the picture: at the height of 5600 meters on a steep wall, I with a backpack of more than 20 kg trying to make a slippery concession to clear the ice rope and a hoarse descent. The ice deliberately collapsed with a rope, the hands drenched in blood on adrenaline tear off the ice shell, a heavy backpack disrupts balance, shoulders are stiff, the icy wind blows in the face and throws snow... And oxygen drops to 65... Well, how do you spend May holidays?


expid: AMAD22109
peakid: AMAD
year: 2022
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Iran
leaders: Iraj Maani Golestan
sponsor: Prestige Adventure Ama Dablam Expedition 2022
countries: Chile, China, USA
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Brian Barwatt Facebook page (May 8):

  I guess humble pie is best served cold. I came close to the summit of Ama Dablam, but did not succeed. At about 21,500' my body went from feeling strong, to almost completely shutting down in a matter of minutes. I tried to push on for probably another hour only to realize that my situation had become life threatening (vomiting, extreme coughing, nausea).

  The ensuing 5 hours was the most terrifying blur of my life as I had to descend over 2000 technical feet in complete exhaustion involving almost 20 rappels back to our high camp. It took every ounce of my energy to stay focused, the only other thought in my head being Dominique.

  The weather was great, we were making excellent time, and I felt strong when we started our summit push. The only excuses I have is that maybe I could have used a few more days to acclimatize or I am just getting too old for this??. Either way, I am very satisfied with my effort.


expid: AMAD22110
peakid: AMAD
year: 2022
route1: N Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: August Franzen
sponsor: High Altitude Dreams Ama Dablam Expedition 2022
termnote: Abandoned due to HAPE by one member
campsites: BC,xxx
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  August Franzen Instagram report:

  The North Ridge of Ama Dablam. 

  In April, Cory Schmidt and I found ourselves on this ridge with a long awaited weather window and favorable snow/ice conditions. Not a puff of wind and everything was calm all the way up to the 6812m (22,349 ft) summit.

  We had attempted an alpine style ascent of this mammoth line and were on the cusp of the point of no return: our rack was meager and the opportunity to retreat was fading. 

  Cory had developed a cough throughout our climb and it began to work it’s way deeper and deeper into his lungs the higher we climbed. In retrospect, we should’ve caught onto the situation sooner...but we didn’t. 

  Lulled by a perfect summit window, we continued up. We had been steady and moving through the night, climbing ice runnels and mixed alpine choss by headlamp and moonlight. By sunrise Cory’s cough had grown deeper and more frequent.

  After pulling over a cruxy headwall, I stared up at moderate terrain and the snowy ridge that would put us on the summit and safety of the fixed lines on the standard SW Ridge route.

  While I was elated and convincing myself that we would stand on top of Ama Dablam, at the belay, Cory’s cough sunk deeper until he experienced the dreaded gurgling and crackles within his lungs.

  It was now all too apparent: Cory had developed HAPE (high altitude pulmonary edema) high on the ridge.

  The clock was now ticking and our position was a tricky one, push to the summit and safety of fixed lines, or drop elevation quickly as possible, but roll the dice and hope our rack will be sufficient to make it down.

  Down we went. Eventually, we escaped the mountain with just enough gear to bail.

  Ultimately, we turned around from a dream line under blue skies. We had traveled across the globe, trained like never before and went broke in the process. But in the end, we both live to climb another day. What more could you really ask for?


expid: AMPG22101
peakid: AMPG
year: 2022
route1: N Face (5300m)
route2: NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Vitaliy Musiyenko
sponsor: Sherpa Tracks Vitaliy & Nick Amphu Gyabjen Expedition 2022
ascent2: 5th
bcdate: 2022-04-03
smtdate: 2022-04-12
smttime: 1230
othersmts: Climbed Ama Dablam (AMAD-221-01)and Island Peak; attempted Nuptse East (NUPE-221-01)
campsites: BC(03/04),Smt(12/04)
agency: Adventure Sherpa Tracks
routememo:
  Amphu Gyabjen: new route on the N Face [attempt] with climbing up to 5.11b/c and significant, potentially deadly runouts on low 5.10 and below. 

  Also scramble to the summit by the NE Ridge on 12 April, as we didn’t continue to the summit on the N Face attempt in the first round on 4 April because we reached a shoulder with an easy descent from the back side, and we were in a white-out at that point. 

  Both times climbed from Chhukung to Chhukung.


expid: ANN122101
peakid: ANN1
year: 2022
route1: N Face
nation: Brazil
leaders: Moeses Fiamoncini
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks (SST) Annapurna I Expedition 2022
countries: Argentina, Austria, India, Italy, Poland, Romania, Russia, Sweden, Switzerland, Taiwan, UK
approach: By heli from Kathmandu
bcdate: 2022-03-25
smtdate: 2022-04-28
campsites: BC(25/03,4200m),C1(02/04,5000m),C2(05/04,5500m),C3(26/04,6500m),C4(27/04,6800m),Smt(28/04)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Report from Josette Valloton:

  BC  29/03  4200m (by heli from Ktmdu)
  C1  03/04  5000m
  C2  05/04  5500m
  C3  26/04  6500m
  C4  27/04  6800m
  HPt 28/04  7800m by Valloton

  Valloton left C4 at 9:30 pm on 27/04. She left with everyone of SST and reached 7800m at 11 am. She felt too tired to carry on. Especially as she was alone and was not using bottled oxygen. She descended to C4 where she arrived at 5 pm. On 29/04 she descended to BC. 

  Climb abandoned on 28/04 due to too hard without O2 and Sherpa. Left BC on 30/04 by heli to Tatopani, bus to Ktmdu.


  Report from Hans Wenzl:

  BC  29/03
  C1  02/04  5000m
  C2  05/04  5540m
  C3  26/04  6200m
  C4  27/04  6950m
  Smt 28/04  by Wenzl at 12:45 pm.

  Summiters left C4 at 1:30 am. Wenzl summited at 12:45 pm, stayed 15 min. the Weather was good until about 2:00 pm; from 16:00 there was a thunderstorm and a snowstorm. Left BC on 29/04.


  Report from Grace Tseng:

  BC  25/03  4200m
  C1  03/04  5000m
  C2  05/04  5700m
  C3  16/04  6200m (lower C2)
  C4  27/04  6500m
  Smt 28/04  by Tseng, Nima, Mingma Dorji Tamang at 12:30 pm.

  Summit team left C4 at 8:30 pm. The Sherpa team had fixed about 1200m of rope. Many people on the route. They stayed about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to C4 where they arrived at 6:30 pm. On 29/04 all back to BC. Left BC on 30/04 by heli.

  After the expedition, the team stayed in Pokhara until 07/05 and then flew to Makalu BC to climb Makalu.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C4 to top to C4 by Nima and Mingma Dorji.


  Report from Moeses Fiamoncini (SST Facebook page):

  Posted by @moesesfiamoncini: Post 1 - Annapurna 2022 - End of Expedition (3 May)

  Many articles about the world of mountaineering describe Annapurna and K2 as the most dangerous mountains in the world. Each climber will have their own story with them. I did K2 without oxygen on my first attempt and I just tried Annapurna for the second time, unsuccessful. Or maybe I should say: successfully because I came back alive.

  When I was just two hours ago from the peak, 7900 meters away, I was caught by the bad altitude and began to feel mental confusion, silliness and difficulty to walk, as well as nose bleeding. It was 9 o'clock in the morning. Waited two hours sitting, although I knew the symptoms wouldn't go away. The day was beautiful, sunny, little windy. And the top was there...so close.

  When that happens, there are two alternatives: you either go down and recover quickly, or you keep climbing and take the risks. But the decision to come down is harder than climbing any mountain. While I was there, sitting in my illusion that my symptoms could just disappear, two mountaineers who also didn't take oxygen passed me and encouraged me to keep climbing. It was painful, but I took all my frustration out and decided to get down.

  Two days later, coming down in bad weather, made it to base camp for the night. The next morning, 30/04 in Nepal, the rescue helicopter was in search of the two mountaineers who passed by me while I was sitting there. After reaching the top they had trouble getting back to Field 4 due to a 60 mph winds storm and couldn't find their sheds. Both suffered severe effects of frosbite. But I understand their decision to keep climbing, I understand like no one else! Both are excellent mountaineers with extensive experience. I choose to come back, but I don't judge them.

  What we lacked, who don't use oxygen, was aclimatization and when it comes to Annapurna and aclimatization, it's a long story involving geography and the fearless climate of this mountain. In a next post I will explain about it.

  Heartfelt thanks to everyone who prayed for me. Hugs!

  @thenorthfacebr


expid: ANN122102
peakid: ANN1
year: 2022
route1: N Face
nation: India
leaders: Kasturi Savekar
sponsor: 8K Expeditions Annapurna I Expedition 2022
countries: Australia, Mongolia, Morocco, Norway, Taiwan
approach: By heli from Kathmandu
bcdate: 2022-03-29
smtdate: 2022-04-28
termdate: 2022-04-30
campsites: BC(29/03,4200m),C1(03/04,5044m),C2(04/04,5585m),C3(19/04,6425,),C4(27/04,6800m),Smt(28/04)
agency: 8K Expeditions
routememo:
  Report from Alessandra Pepper:

  BC  29/03  4200m
  C2  03/04  5044m
  C2  04/04  5585m
  C3  19/04  6425m
  C4  27/04  6800m
  Smt 28/04  by Pepper and Dawa Tenzing at 15:57 pm.

  Team left C4 at 23:30 on 27/04, summited at 15:57 on 28/04, stayed 10 minutes, the descended to C4 at 9:30 pm. Left BC on 30/04.

  Oxygen: Pepper used from 7800m and back to C2, Dawa Tenzing from C4 and back to C4.

  Jerry from Mongolia did not make the summit. Dawa and Pepper turned him around 200-300m below due to the snowstorm.


  Report from Tri-Fish Chan:

  BC  11/04  4200m
  C1    --   5080m
  C2  12/04  5560m  (stayed 2 nights)
  C3  19/04  6400m (Allie Pepper, Tri-Fish with Sherpa)
  C4  27/04  6800m
  HPt 28/04  7660m by Chan
  Smt 28/04  by Dawa (AD) Sherpa, Allie Pepper

  Chan, Dawa Sherpa, Pepper and her Dawa [Tenzing] Sherpa left C4 at 11:30 pm on 27/04. Weather was good, but at around 1:30 pm the weather turned for the worse. Clouds came in and it started to snow. Winds came up and they ended up in a whiteout. When they reached 7660m at around 1 pm, Chan decided to turn back and started using bottled oxygen. Allie Pepper and her Sherpa were already ahead. Dawa (AD) Sherpa said he would go up a bit with a Mongolian member of the 8K Expedition and return, however, he never did. When Grace Teng came down from the summit and met Chan at around 2 pm, they descended together to C4 where they arrived at 7 pm. AD Sherpa summited and returned to C4 at 10 pm. Allie Pepper and her Sherpa summited and returned to C4 at 9:30 pm. On 29/04 Chan descended to BC.

  Sherpa:
    Dawa (AD) Sherpa, Khumbu, (Everest/Lhotse/Manaslu) 24 years old

  Oxygen: Taken and used from HPt to C4 by Chan.

  Left BC on 30/04 by helicopter to Dana and jeep to Tatopani. From there to Pokhara. On 03/05 Chan together with Kristin Harila took a helicopter to Dhaulagiri BC to attempt Dhaulagiri.


  Report from Kristin Harila:

  BC  06/04  4200m by heli from Kathmandu
  C1  11/04  5080m
  C2  12/04  5560m
  C3  25/04  6500m
  C4  27/04  6800m
  Smt 28/04  by Harila, Pasdawa, Lhakpa Thinduk, Lhakpa [Nurbu] at 11.25 am.

  First attempt was to reach the summit on 20/04. Team reached C2 on 16/04 and descended back to BC on 18/04 as the route was not fixed. They stayed at BC until 23/04 and left for C2 on 24/04. They took 11 hours from C2 to C3 as there was a lot of snow. C3 was at a steep section right under a serac which was moving during the night. Harila thought it was quite a dangerous place, but for some reason they spent two nights at C3. According to Harila it was due to bad planning.

  Pasdawa and Lhakpa Thinduk helped the rope-fixing team and spent 27/04 above C4 working. They returned to C4 in the evening, rested for a few hours and left together with Lhakpa and Harila at 9 pm. On the summit push, the team was still fixing rope, so it was slow progress.

  On the way down, Harila met Josette Valloton who descended with them to C4. They reached C4 at 4 pm, just before the bad weather moved in. In the morning of 29/04, they heard that Tim Bogdanov and Giampolo Corona were missing. Both climbers contracted serious frostbite on hands and feet.

  On 29/04 team descended to BC.

  Oxygen: C4 to summit to C2 by all.

  Left BC on 30/04 by helicopter to Tatopani and 01/05 to Pokhara. They stayed in Pokhara until 03/05 and took a helicopter to Dhaulagiri BC. Harila had eaten something bad for breakfast and felt already sick when she left Pokhara.


expid: ANN122103
peakid: ANN1
year: 2022
route1: N Face
nation: India
leaders: Bharath Thammineni
sponsor: Team Boots & Crampons Annapurna I Expedition 2022
countries: Australia
approach: Jomsom->Muktinath->Tatopani->BC
smtdate: 2022-04-28
smttime: 1120
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(28/04)
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  Report from Baljeet Kaur:

  BC   31/03  4200m by heli from Pokhara
  C1   03/04  5080m
  C2   04/04  5560m (acclimatization)
  C2A  25/04  6150m (we had to stop here because of the bad weather)
  C3   26/04  6500m 
  C4   27/04  6800m
  Smt  28/04  by Baljeet Kaur at 2:08 pm.

  Oxygen: Used from 7400m

  Left BC on 30 April. Took a helicopter from BC to Dana, then a bus ride to Pokhara. Next day a helicopter to Kathmandu on 01 May.


expid: ANN422101
peakid: ANN4
year: 2022
route1: NW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Diahanne Gilbert
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Annapurna IV Expedition
countries: Ireland
bcdate: 2022-04-21
smtdate: 2022-04-28
termdate: 2022-05-09
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to too much snow, bad weather
campsites: BC(21/04,4800m),C1(25/04,5500m),C2(27/04,6100m),C3(28/04,6400m),xxx
agency: Makalu Adventure
routememo:
  Expedition reached 6400m (Dan Gee, Graham Muggleton, Susan Parker and all climbing Sherpas reached this point).

  Too much snow, terrible weather! On summit rotation we couldn't even get back up to C3 due to thigh deep snow. Snow accumulations too great. Easiest mountaineering decision I have ever made.

  We only had one 'good' weather day whilst at base camp and above. We waited (5 days) as long as possible in base camp for a possible weather window, but it just never arrived. Unpleasant conditions moving from base camp unwards.

  Gilbert reports that 4 Sherpas may have summited while fixing ropes to the summit:

    Phurba Sherpa (Makalu)
    Norbu Sherpa
    Lobsang Sherpa (Darjeeling)
    Dorchee Sherpa (Darjeeling)

  Gilbert: "I can't really verify this, but apparently 4 of the climbing Sherpas reached the summit approx a week before we arrived in country (Phurba posted on Facebook saying the 5th April. They were fixing the route. I don't know what time they reached the summit. However, Dorchee told me that they submitted on the 21st March, so I'm not sure."


expid: BARU22101
peakid: BARU
year: 2022
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Julian Sandbrink
sponsor: 8K Baruntse Expedition 2022
countries: Australia, Austria, Canada, Denmark, Netherlands, Norway, Peru, Poland, Sweden, USA
approach: Lukla->Pangoma->Kothe->Khare->BC
bcdate: 2022-04-13
smtdate: 2022-04-26
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to dangerous conditions
campsites: BC(13/04,5400m),C1(24/04,6100m),C2(25/04,6400m),xxx(26/04,6900m)
agency: 8K Expeditions
routememo:
  Instagram report from Julian Sandbrink:

  The southeast ridge to the main summit (7129m) in the background was getting too technical, exposed and dangerous (overhanging cornices, crevasses, no fixed ropes). Ashok Lama and I agreed not to move on as I couldn’t have properly belayed him.

  No summit, but many other aspects of why I climb mountains were perfect: Astonishing views of nature, a spectacular sunrise above the earth, a tough test of physical and psychological limits and an intense feeling of being alive. An absolutely insane experience. I am very happy that I’ve taken that challenge!

  Baruntse was first climbed in 1954 in an expedition led by Edmund Hillary, a year after he climbed Everest with Tenzing Norgay.

  It was last summited in 2017.

  This season, to our knowledge, no other climbing party got to where we were. The main reason: We just managed to cross a big crevasse via a snowbridge before it was getting too unstable from the morning sun.

  The summit is getting more difficult as once stable snow/ice is breaking up, snow bridges over crevasses are becoming fragile and the line of snow that allowed walking over the ridge is vanishing. 

  Initially, we were 11 clients at BC with the same summit schedule. 5 left Camp II, 4 of us met around 9 am on the “false summit” plateau at 6900m, together with our Sherpa crew.


expid: DHA122101
peakid: DHA1
year: 2022
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Mingma Gyalje Sherpa
sponsor: Imagine Nepal Dhaulagiri Expedition 2022
countries: Canada, China, India, Japan, Macedonia, Norway, USA
approach: Flew to Pokhara, heli to BC
bcdate: 2022-03-16
smtdate: 2022-04-09
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2022-04-10
campsites: BC(16/03,4700m),C1(19/03,5700m),C2A(22/03,6200m),C2B(07/04,6450m),C3(08/04,7300m),Smt(09/04)
agency: Imagine Nepal
routememo:
  Approach: Flew to Pokhara on 14 March, Heli to BC.

  BC  16/03  First group
      31/03  Last group
  C1  19/03  5700m 
  C2  22/03  6200m lower camp (established on 21/03)
  C2  07/04  6450m upper camp (camp was used for summit push)
  C3  08/04  7300m
  Smt 09/04  by 10 climbers + 12 Sherpas

  Summit push started from C3 at the midnight of 08 April. The first lot of five members and Sherpas reached summit at 9:30 am. By 12 pm rest of the members and Sherpas reached the summit. Mingma Gyalje stayed on summit for about two and half hour, the rest between 10 to 15 minutes each.

  Team left BC on 10/04 by heli to Pokhara.

  Fixed rope: the team fixed rope all way up.

  Oxygen: 1 without (Nallavelli) and rest used from C2; by Sherpas from C3.

  Liu Mihe stopped at 6200m due to weakness.


  Notes from Tracee Metcalfe:

  9:30 am
    Dong
    Ishikawa
    Metcalfe
    Warner
    Kili Pemba
    Jit Bahadur
    Pemba Tenzing
    Mingma Gyalje

  10.30 am
    Aasvang
    Thundu Sherpa

  Remaining members and Sherpa summited at 12 noon.

  Team set out at 11 pm on 08/04. Tam did not have enough rope to fix the long traverse below the summit. 1/2 of our team worked together using the same piece of rope in a leap-frog style, the second 1/2 did not use a rope there. It was a little challenge with rocks and a cornice to get to the summit plateau. After summiting, team descended, some to C3, C2 or BC.


expid: DHA122102
peakid: DHA1
year: 2022
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Greece
leaders: Antonios Sykaris
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks (SST) Dhaulagiri Expedition 2022
countries: Israel, Japan, Norway, Taiwan
smtdate: 2022-04-11
smttime: 1240
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,Smt(11/04,08-09/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Report from Chan Chiao-Yu:

  Approach: By helicopter

  BC  03/05  4600m
  C1  05/05  5850m
  C2  07/05  6800m
  C3  08/05  7400m
  Smt 09/05  by Chan and Halung Dorchi Sherpa from Makalu at 1 pm.

  Chan arrived at BC by helicopter from Pokhara after having attempted Annapurna 1 where she reached 7660m on 28/04. She was well acclimatised and did not need any rotation before her summit push. She and Halung Dorchi Sherpa left BC on 05/05 and stayed two nights at C1. On 07/05, they reached C2 and on 08/05 they reached C3.

  Halung Dorchi and Chan left C3 at about 8 pm on 08/05. They moved together with the Kobler & Partner team and reached the summit at about 1 pm. They stayed for about 30 mins and descended to C3 where they arrived at around 9:30 pm.

  On 10/05 they descended to BC. Left BC on 12/05 trekking to Marpha.

  Oxygen:	
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Halung Dorchi
    Chan on the descent from summit to C3.

  Chan was a client of 8K Expeditions on the SST permit.


  Report from Danny Gordin:

  Approach: Trekking from Darbang.

  BC  22/04  4600m
  C2  24/04  5850m
  C2  25/04  6400m
  HPt 25/04  6400m by Gordin.

  Gordin had trouble sleeping at C2 as he had periodic breathing [issues]. He did not recover when he was back down at BC and decided that the climb was not for him this year. He abandoned the climb on 01/05. On 02/05 he ascended to his C2 to collect his gear and left BC by helicopter on 03/05. Left BC on 03/05 by helicopter.

  Sherpas: None
  Oxygen:	 Not taken, not used.


  Report by Omri Margalit:

  Approach: Trekking from Darbang.

  BC  16/04  4600m
  IC  18/04  5400m
  C1  21/04  5850m
  C2  22/04  6400m
  HPt 08/05  7050m by Margalit

  During the second rotation Margalit and Nave reached an altitude of about 6800m. They wanted to reach C3 during this rotation, but they were too tired to go any further. They had no Sherpa support and were carrying heavy bags (up to 25kg). They joined the summit push of all the other expeditions on Dhaulagiri leaving BC on 06/05 to reach C1 and on 07/05 to reach C1. Nave turned back at about 6700m as the climb was too exhausting. He descended to C2 where he stayed the night.

  Margalit carried on towards C2, but decided to turn back at about 7050m. He thought he had taken too long towards C3, and when he met the Norwegian climber Kristin Harila and her Sherpa team who told him that it was another 2 hours to C3 he decided to turn back at around 4 pm. He descended to C2 where he arrived at 6 pm.

  Both Nave and Margalit descended to C2 on 09/05 and left BC by heli to Kathmandu.

  Climb abandoned on 08/05 due to exhaustion/slow movement

  Sherpas: None
  Oxygen:	 Not taken, not used.


  Report from Yachiyo Suzuki:

  Approach: Heli to Italian BC

  BC  24/04  4600m
  C1  26/04  5850m
  C2  29/04  6400m
  C3  08/05  7200m
  HPt 08/05  7200m by Suzuki, Dawa Sherpa.

  Suzuki and Dawa Sherpa started their summit push on 06/05 from BC. The days to C3 where quite windy and it was hard to move. They reached C3 on 08/05 at 6pm and as Suzuki was very tired from reaching C3 she decided not to go for the summit. She was contemplating to try the following day, but high winds were forecast. They descended to C2 on 09/05 and to BC on 10/05. Left BC on1 2/05 by helicopter.

  Climb abandoned on 09/05 due to exhaustion, bad weather forecast.

  Sherpas: Dawa (summited with Mingma G on 11/04)
  Oxygen:	 Taken and used from C2 to HPt to C2 by Suzuki.


  Report from Kristin Harila:

  BC  03/05  4600m by heli from Pokhara
  C2  04/05  6800m
  C3  07/05  7400m
  Smt 08/05  by Harila, Pasdawa, Mingma, Dawa (uncle of Lhakpa who owns of 8K) 
             at 11 am.

  Harila arrived by helicopter from Pokhara after summiting Annapurna 1 on 28/04. She was sick the first day at BC and headed to C2 on 04/05. She stayed at C2 for two nights and went to C3 on 07/05.

  Team left C3 at 9 pm on 07/05. They had to break trail and pull out the ropes fixed by Mingma Gyalje on 09/04. It was a difficult ascent due to the snowy conditions.

  Team stayed on the summit for about 10 minutes and descended to C2 where they arrived at 6 pm. They descended to BC on 09/05 and left by helicopter to Kathmandu the same day. 

  On 10/05 they took a helicopter to a village near Kangchenjunga BC. Stayed the night and took a helicopter to Kangchenjunga BC on 11/05.

  Oxygen: From C3 to top to C2 by all.


expid: DHA122103
peakid: DHA1
year: 2022
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Carlos Soria Fontan
sponsor: Carlos Soria Dhaulagiri Expedition 2022
approach: By heli to BC
bcdate: 2022-04-12
smtdate: 2022-04-18
termdate: 2022-05-09
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to high winds and snowfall
campsites: BC(12/04,4600m),C1(16/04,5850m),C2(17/04,6800m),C3(18/04,7400m),xxx(18/04)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Approach: By helicopter to BC.

  BC  12/04  4600m
  C1  16/04  5850m
  C2  17/04  6800m
  C3  18/04  7400m
  HPt 18/04  7400m by Soria, Urqui, Mikel Sherpa and other Sherpas.

  On 18/04 Carlos and his team reached C3 and they were planning to go for the summit on 19/04. However, it was snowing and Carlos was not feeling his best. He could not drink or eat at C3 and when the weather did not look too good, the team decided to descend. On 19/04 Carlos, Mikel, Luis descended to C1 and on 20/04 they continued to BC to rest.

  Team stayed at BC until 06/05 and started their summit push on 06/05. On 07/05 they headed towards C2, however, as the wind was strong and the weather very cloudy they decided to abandon the expedition. They reached about 6100m, but then descended to BC on 08/05 and left BC by helicopter on 09/05.

  Oxygen:	taken and during the night at C3 by members and Sherpas.


expid: DHA122104
peakid: DHA1
year: 2022
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Andreas Neuschmid
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Dhaulagiri Expedition 2022
countries: Germany, Switzerland
approach: Trekking from Darbang
bcdate: 2022-04-17
smtdate: 2022-05-09
termdate: 2022-05-13
campsites: BC(17/04,4600m),C1(22/04,5850m),C2(27/04,6400m),C3(08/05,7200m),Smt(09/05)
accidents: Diez suffered 2nd grade frostbite on most fingers.
agency: Himalaya Vision
routememo:
  Approach: Trekking from Darbang.

  BC  17/04  4600m
  C1  22/04  5850m
  C2  27/04  6400m
  C3  08/05  7200m
  Smt 09/05  by Neuschmid, Diez, Sieveking, Lal Bahadur Tamang, Tashi Chhiring, 
             Karma Gyalzen at 12 noon; Salzmann and Mingmar Sherpa at 12:50 pm.

  Team started from C3 at 8pm on 08/05. They had arrived from C2 at 3 pm and only had five hours to rest. They set off in good and calm weather with a few gusts of wind at 8 pm. Straightforward climb to the summit. There was still some fixed rope from Mingma G’s team who summited on 09/04. The Sherpas fixed some rope on the traverse which the team reached at around 6 am. The wind started at about 9am in the morning which made climbing more difficult Conditions were good but there was a huge serac at the top of the couloirs which seemed rather dangerous, however, the team managed it well. They spent about 30 minutes on the summit and descended to C3. Tashi Chhiring reached C3 at around 2:30 pm, Karma Gyalzen at 3:30 pm, Diez at 5 pm, Lal Bahadur Tamang and Mingmar at 9 pm, Salzmann at 9.45 pm, Neuschmid and Sieveking at 2 am.

  On the descent Sieveking was very exhausted and Neuschmid and Sieveking found a tent about 200m above C3 where they stayed from about 11 pm to 1 am. Once Sieveking had recovered, they descended to C3.

  On 10/05 Salzmann, Diez and Tashi Chhiring descended to C1 while Neuschmid, Sieveking, Bierling, Mingmar Sherpa, Lal Bahadur Tamang and Karma Gyalzen descended to C2. On 11/05 everyone back down at BC.

  Other members:

  Miesch reached C2 at 6400m on 23/04 during the second rotation. During the third acclimatisation rotation he turned back just above C1 due to health issues. He descended to BC on 27/04 and decided to abandon the expedition. He left BC on 01/05 and trekked out via Marpha.

  Bierling reached C3 on 08/05, however, as she took very long from C2 to C3 and only arrived at C3 at 6 pm. She was very exhausted due to the high gusts of wind and the steep ascent to C3 that she felt she did not have enough energy to go for the summit. She stayed at C3 for two nights and descended with the summiters on 10/05.

  Left BC on 13/05 trekking via French Pass and Marpha.

  Fixed rope: 500m at the traverse.

  Accidents: Diez 2nd grade frostbite on most fingers.

  Oxygen:
     Not Used: Salzmann, Diez, Tashi Chhiring, Mingmar and Karma Gyalzen
     Used:
      Neuschmid from C2 to top to C2
  	Sieveking from C2 to top to BC
  	Lal Bahadur from C3 to top to C3

  Sherpas:
    Lal Bahadur Tamang, Ramche-6, Rasuwa, 21/06/1983
    Tashi Chhiring Sherpa, Khumjung, 08/05/1990
    Karma Gyalzen Sherpa, Phortse, Khumbu 23/04/1987
    Mingmar Sherpa, Taskindu, Solu 24/11/1989


expid: DOLM22101
peakid: DOLM
year: 2022
route1: SE Face (up), E Ridge (down)
nation: Spain
leaders: Catalina Llado
sponsor: Dream Carrier Dolma Khang Expedition 2022
approach: Simigaon->Beding->Na (BC)
bcdate: 2022-04-19
smtdate: 2022-05-04
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2022-05-11
othersmts: Climbed Ramdung
campsites: BC(19/04,4183m),ABC(30/04,4940m),Biv1(03/05,5900m),Smt(04/05),Biv2(04/05,5900m)
agency: Dream Carrier Treks
routememo:
  Approach:: KTM to Gonggar (small place, few houses with shops, close to a river); 2 hours closer to Simigaon by jeep. Then trekked to Na via Simigaon, Dongang, Beding. 
  BC   19/04  Na village (4183m)
  ABC  30/04  4940m
  Biv1 03/05  5900m
  Smt  04/05  by Roig and Rubi Pol at noon.
  Biv2 04/05  5900m on E Ridge (in descent)

  Route:   SE Face (partial new line)
  Sherpas: None
  Oxygen:  Not taken, not used

  Acclimatization:

  Climbed a few low things before Ramdung (5930m) on the 26 April. Llado and Rubi Pol reached top, other two reached up to 5500m.

  Considered various other options, took another 3 days exploring with light bags before deciding that it would be Dolma Khang.

  30 April: Tried to get up in bad weather. Then only Roig and Rubi Pol went up to ABC, very close to the base of the face. Found a wooden sign at the campsite marked 2017 (Tore Sunde-Rasmussen expedition). All went back down to Beding.

  1 May: Beding to Na, then Na to Beding to pick up all climbing gear.

  2 May: All 4 went up to ABC from Beding.

  3 May: Roig and Rubi Pol left ABC at 4:30 am, reaching a tiny bivouac on the South Ridge, 1000m higher. On this day they went through a long snow gully, 60/65° (snow in bad conditions) with some vertical rotten ice sections (max WI4), the longest of them of 60m. The last 300m were a more vertical mixed terrain difficult to protect.

  4 May: On the second day, they started at 5:30 am and through a more technical terrain (with isolated sections of M5) and difficult to protect, reached the top in about 6h 30m (400m higher). They saw some old ropes on the spur near the top (the first ones may be at 200m before the top).

  The way down went via the East Ridge through a glacier full of seracs and crevasses. After 50m, descending one abseil was needed, then the rest was down climbing. They were all covered in clouds most of the time so they were navigating between the points they could see from time to time. Once they arrived on the proper ridge, where they not had to worry any more about not getting in a “dead end”, they carried on a bit more until they could find a good place for the bivouac. It was only 4 pm, but they could not see more than 15-20m. They were still at 5900m.

  5 May: Starting at 5 am, they did one first abseil, about 200m of down climbing and another 60m abseil to get onto the glacier below, from where easy walking down the glacier got them to the rocks below. At about 12 pm they were at the camp at 4940m. 
  On that same day we all went down to Beding in about 3-5 hours.

  9 May: Camped one night above Tsho Rolpa lake. Intended Parchermo, but bad weather prevented them to try something else.

  Left BC on 11 May.


expid: DOR222101
peakid: DOR2
year: 2022
route1: N Face (ip), SW Face (down)
nation: UK
leaders: Paul Ramsden
sponsor: British Urkinmang Expedition 2022
ascent1: 1st
approach: Via Panch Pokhari
bcdate: 2022-04-14
smtdate: 2022-04-30
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2022-05-03
campsites: BC(14/04,4200m),Biv1(26/04,5600m),Biv2(27/04,5900m),Biv3(28/04,6100m),Biv4(29/04,6300m),Smt(30/04)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Approach: via Panch Pokhari (same approach route to Shipton’s Col).

  BC   14/04  4200m
  Biv1 26/04  5600m
  Biv2 27/04  5900m
  Biv3 28/04  6100m
  Biv4 29/04  6300m 
  Smt  30/04  by both members at 9 am.

  Acclimatization:

  On nearby peaks, not climbing it. Went up the West Ridge of Dorje Lhakpa up to 5700m (high point on the 20th of April).

  Climbing details (5 days roundtrip):

  24 Apr: Team left BC. Had a short day because of the conditions of the glacier, covered with recent soft snow, and weather. Bivouacked on the glacier, not far from the planned descent route. Left some food there under a rock.

  25 Apr: short day for same reasons. Bivouac on the glacier.

  26 Apr (Day 1): start of the climb/face, at about 5200m. Very similar climbing type on the whole route, following a thin narrow ice ascending line from right to left. On that day duet climbed the easiest portion of the route, in 13 pitches (40m) for about a third of the face’s height.

  Bivouac 1 at circa 5600m, at a surprisingly comfortable spot to put the tent, sheltered below a rock cave.

  27 Apr (Day 2): Was to be the crux of the climb. Had to negotiate a narrow chimney inside the rock for 3 pitches; similar to Gritstone type of climbing says Ramsden.

  Bivouac 2 was established at circa 5900m, at the “first white spider (…) one of the two circular snowfields reminiscent of their namesake on the Eiger”. Would be the worse night of the climb, fighting against snow and cold all night long.

  28 Apr (Day 3): After crossing the first white spider, duet followed the ramp traversing leftwards up to the second “white spider”. Mainly faced ice difficulties on that day, with a difficult pitch in mixed ground at the end of the traverse (“unconsolidated snow on top of rock slabs”).

  Bivouac 3 was made at circa 6100m, at the second white spider, with a rather good night.

  29 Apr (Day 4): In three pitches (the last one delicate), the duet reached the beginning of the upper steep snow slopes at 11 am. Both were now feeling the effects of high altitude as they were keeping up the snow/ice slope to try to reach the shoulder marking the end of the face.

  Bivouac 4 was reached at circa 6300m, at sunset, at a comfortable cave a little down to the end of the upper snow slopes.

  30 Apr (Day 5): After a cold night, had 2 pitches of easy snow to reach the shoulder, then went up to the summit, reached at circa 9 am. Descended back to the shoulder, then further down circa 500m southwards to the top of the west gully. The latter sides the West Face to its south ending. The duet reached the bottom of the mountain 5 hours after having left the summit. Then they walked back down to the previously food deposit of their glacier bivouac of the 24th of April.

  01 May: went back down the glacier, then to BC.

  Waited a few days for the porters, then left BC on the 3rd of May.

  Ramsden still can’t feel his toes, which got cold during the climb despite not frozen. Miller got some blisters on his toes which turned black, but also not frozen. Since he needs time to fully recover, the next trip planned to west Nepal, initially for the autumn, is postponed to 2023.

  Line and Peak details: The "Phantom" line, 1200m, 37 pitches, ED+

  Peak christened “Jugal Spire” by the team, since the locals didn’t have a name for it.

  Had reconnoitre the peak on Google Earth during the lockdown. Decided about the line once there, since they had seen only 1 picture of the mountain shared by Mikel Zabalza’s team. At first, on GE, thought the West Ridge to be an interesting proposal, but when they saw the face, found that straight awkward ascending line, which is a continuous natural line of ice. “Rewarding to find something natural” says Ramsden, as the Siguniang line opened 20 years ago with Fowler. And lucky: if the line wasn’t there, would be harder to find a logical solution throughout the smooth granite face. “I think such type of steep homogenous leucogranite face is quite unusual for Nepal, looking more like Pakistan”.

  Sherpas: None
  Route:   North Face
  Oxygen:  Not taken, not used
  Records: 1st ascent of the peak via the North Face


expid: EVER22101
peakid: EVER
year: 2022
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Sherpa Rope-Fixing
sponsor: Sherpa Rope-Fixing Everest South 2022
smtdate: 2022-05-07
smttime: 1855
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(07/05)
routememo:
  A team of 11 Sherpas working for 14 Peaks Expedition summited at 18:55 pm fixing ropes to the top:

    Kami Rita Sherpa
    Sona Sherpa
    Ngima Tashi Sherpa
    Phurba Tsering Sherpa [Fura Tshering]
    Tenjing Gyaljen Sherpa
    Lakpa Tenji Sherpa
    Phurba Kusang Sherpa
    Mingma Dandhu Sherpa [Dendi]
    Pastenji Sherpa [Tenji]
    Taraman Tamang
    Phurba Chhotar Sherpa


expid: EVER22102
peakid: EVER
year: 2022
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Justin Merle
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Everest Expedition 2022
countries: Australia, Canada, Germany
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Lobuje->Ever BC
bcdate: 2022-04-10
smtdate: 2022-05-12
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2022-05-17
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-221-05)
campsites: BC(10/04,5350m),C1(23/04,6000m),C2(25/04,6440m),C3(10/05,7100m),C4(11/05,7900m),Smt(12,15-16/05)
agency: Beyul Adventure
routememo:
  Approach: Pangboche, Lobuche

  BC  10/04  5350m
  C1  23/04  5800m
  C2  25/04  6440m
  C3  10/05  7100m
  C4  11/05  7900m
  Smt 12/05  by Silloway, Pesek, Funuru, Phura, Gyalzen Dorjee,
             [Chhiring Tendi and Jambale] from 6:30 am [to 9:09 am]
      15/05  by Marshall, Zimmerman, Benyamein, Merle, Dawa Tenzing, Lama
             Phura Gyalzen, Mingma Dorjee, Nima Sona, Thunang Lhomi at 3:30 am
      16/05  by Lam, Argenbright, Ang Karma, Darinji, Mingma Sona, 
             Nuru Jangbu at 3:50 am.

  Lhotse Smt:
      13/05  by Pesek, Phura at 7 am.
      15/05  by Antonini, McMichael, Tenzing Dorjee, Pasang Kanji, Sonam Tashi
             at 7:55 am (Tenzing is the father, Pasang Kanchi his daughter and 
             Sonam Tashi his son).

  All summit teams left South Col at around 8 pm on the previous night. They stayed an average of 30 mins on the summit and everyone descended to C2 after the summit, apart from Merle, who stayed the night of the 15/05 at C4 to support the next group.

  Pesek and Phurba summited Everest on 12/05 and descended to South Col, where they arrived at 10 am. They rested until midnight and went from there to the summit of Lhotse. After the summit they descended to C2, where they arrived 11 am.

  Pollozcek did not climb as he was BC manager.

  Sparks reached BC, but was not very well and left the expedition early.

  Team left BC on 17/05 by heli.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used C2 to top to C2 by all members apart from:
  	Marshall, Merle, McMichael (C3 to top to C3) and Sherpas (C4 to top to C4).


expid: EVER22103
peakid: EVER
year: 2022
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Mike Hamill
sponsor: Climbing the Seven Summits (CTSS) Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2022
countries: Argentina, Australia, Canada, Egypt, France, UK
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Lobuje->Ever BC
bcdate: 2022-04-14
smtdate: 2022-05-12
smttime: 0500
termdate: 2022-05-18
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-221-10)
campsites: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(23/04,6000m),C2(24/04,6440m),C3(10/05,7100m),C4(11/05,7900m),Smt(12,14,16/05)
agency: TAGnepal Trekking
routememo:
  Approach: Pangboche, Lobuche, Everest BC

  BC  14/04  5350m
  C1  23/04  5800m
  C2  24/04  6440m
  C3  10/05  7100m
  C4  11/05  7900m

  EVER Smt: 12/05 by Ceppi, Woodward, Kincaid, Wolfe, Buchanan, Keagy, Hailes
            and Sherpas (see list below) between 5 am and 8 am.

  EVER Smt: 14/05 by Jane and Gabby Kanizay (mother, daughter), Hepburn and 
            Sherpas at 4:30 am.

  EVER Smt: 16/05 by Rostom (1st Egyptian lady), Anup Gurung, 2 Sherpa at 8 am.

  LHOT Smt: 13/05 by Kincaid, Woodward, Pemba Gyalje, 2 more Sherpas at 5:45 am.

  LHOT Smt: 15/05 by Gabby Kanizay, Tendi Sherpa, Kuzang, 1 more Sherpa at 6 am.

  12/05 summit team left C4 at 7:30 pm om 11/05. Most members descended to C4 after the summit and BC on 13/05.

  14/05 summit team left C4 at 6:30 pm and Gabby Kanizay left at 10 pm on 13/05. Members descended to C4 after the summit.

  16/05 summit team left C4 at 6 pm on 15/05. Members descended to South Col after the summit and BC on 17/05.

  Hepburn was evacuated from C2 by helicopter on 16/05 as she was hit by an oxygen bottle on the triangular face.

  Other members:

  Agrawal got HAPE at C1 and was picked up by helicopter from C1 and flown to Kathmandu.

  Daniel had long Covid symptoms at C2 and was picked up by helicopter from C2 to BC.

  Cope reached the base of the Lhotse Face (about 6600m). He suffered from mental fatigue and left the expedition from BC.

  Takhar reached C2, but contracted HAPE on his way to C1. He was helivaced out of C1 to Kathmandu.

  Grom was the guide of Daniel, Takhar and Cope and left the expedition early to look after his clients. He had reached the base of the Lhotse face.

  Soubrane reached the base of the Lhotse face. She had a stomach ulcer and left the expedition early.

  Riedacker had HACE at C1. He was picked up from C1 and taken to Kathmandu.

  Hamill stayed at EBC as he was managing the expedition from there.

  Team left BC on 18/05 by heli.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members; from C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.


expid: EVER22104
peakid: EVER
year: 2022
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: SummitClimb Everest Expedition 2022
countries: Canada, Germany, Ireland, Japan, UK
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Lobuje->Ever BC
bcdate: 2022-04-18
smtdate: 2022-05-15
termdate: 2022-05-23
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-221-08)
campsites: BC(18/04,5350m),C1(26/04,6000m),C2(29/04,6440m),C3(18/05,7100m),C4(19/05,7900m),Smt(15-16,21/05)
agency: Everest Parivar
primid: LHOT22108
routememo:
  Approach: Pangboche, Lobuche

  BC  18/04  5350m
  C1  26/04  5800m
  C2  29/04  6440m
  C3  18/05  7100m
  C4  19/05  7900m
  Smt 21/05  by Jones, Wangchu at 4:45 am, Hawes and Holt at 5:15 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 8:45 pm on 20/05. Perfect weather, light winds. Not many people on the route. Straightforward climb. They spent about half an hour on the summit and descended to C2 where they arrived at about 5 pm. Back at BC on 22/05. 
  Left BC on 23/05 by heli.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from 6600m to top to 6600m by member and Sherpa.


expid: EVER22105
peakid: EVER
year: 2022
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Dawa Steven Sherpa
sponsor: Asian Trekking Eco-Everest & Sichuan ACME Expedition 2022
countries: China, Croatia, Czech Republic, India, Japan, S Africa, UK, USA
bcdate: 2022-04-14
smtdate: 2022-05-13
termdate: 2022-05-17
campsites: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(26/04,6000m),C2(27/04,6440m),C3(05/05,7100m),C4(12/05,7900m),Smt(13,15/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Approach: Pangboche, Lobuche

  BC  14/04  5350m
  C1  26/04  5800m
  C2  27/04  6440m
  C3  05/05  7100m (by Asmita Dorje & Otruba, who tried without O2)
  C4  12/05  7900m

  Smt 13/05  by Otruba and Kami Chhiri Sherpa at 7:20a m; Eror and Mingma Tenjing 
             at 5:35 am; Yuwantika Tamang and Lhakpa (Mote) Sherpa at 6:50 am.

  Smt 15/05  by Jung Thapa with Sonam Tshiring 4:55 am, Kasahara with Sonam 
             Tshering (Chumoa); Bakshir with Tshering Tundu Sherpa, Lhakpa Nuru; 
             Khan with Pemba Tshering Sherpa, Shera Gyaljen Sherpa, 
             Thilen Bhote at 9:35 am.

  Smt 15/05  by Tao, Jiakuan, Pemba Tshering Maila at 3:35 am; Chen Xiaoyi, 
             Samden Bhote, Tshering Tashi at 5 am.

  13/05 summit team left C4 at 7:30 pm. Straightforward climb. They all spent about 20 mins on the summit and descended to C2.

  15/05 (international) left at 8:15 pm. Straightforward climb. Bakshir and Shaikh stayed at C4, Kasahara at C3, Sonam and Jung Thapa to C2.

  15/05 (Chinese) left at 7:30 pm together with Wang Wu-Song. Wu-Song reached 8630m at 6:20 am. As she was going too slowly, she turned back and descended to C2. All summiteers back to C2 after the summit.

  Asmita Dorje and Dawa Tshering left South Col at 7 pm. Asmita Dorje was attempting without supplemental oxygen. At the South Summit, she lost her vision and turned back. During the descent, she regained her vision and continued to C2 on the same day.

  Sean Williams reached C3 during acclimatisation on 30/04. He left BC on 09/05 as his mother had a stroke and he had to return to the UK.

  Bakalwar reached BC. During the acclimatisation on Lobuche East, he got very ill with HAPE. He was flown to Lukla, recovered and trekked back to BC. He contracted HAPE again and flew out of BC.

  Paraglider flight:

  Carter did not feel well and spent five days at C2 before the summit push. He was initially in the first summit group, but decided to stay at C2 to wait for the second summit group. On 13/05 he ascended to C3 and 14/05 to C4. As his main goal was to fly off the South Col (he only had permission to fly from C4 and not the summit) and the weather was volatile, he decided not to go for the summit, but fly instead. On 15/05, he started attempting to fly at 7 am, but it was too cloudy. He tried again at 10 am, but the wind was too strong and he finally took off at about noon as the wind had dropped and there were gaps in the cloud. He had to run to take off and he was in the air for about 20 min. He flew along the SW Face of Everest over the Western Cwm and down the valley to Gorak Shep where he landed. The wind was very strong (about 30km/h); he landed on a little hill just below Kalapattar. Dawa Steven had sent a Sherpa with Carter’s running shoes so he could use them to walk back to BC. Carter was with Tseden Lama.

  Team left BC on 17/05 by heli and trekking.

  Sherpas above BC: 18
  	
  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C2 (during the night due to sickness) to C4 to Gorak Shep
      by Carter
    Taken and used from C2 to top to C2 by Khan, Chen Xiao-Yi
    Taken and used from bottom of Lhotse face to top to C3 by Bakshi
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by rest of members and Sherpas
    Taken and used from the South Summit to C2 by Asmita Dorje.


expid: EVER22106
peakid: EVER
year: 2022
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Garrett Madison
sponsor: Madison Mountaineering Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2022
countries: Argentina, Canada, Ireland, Israel, UK
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Lobuje->Ever BC
bcdate: 2022-04-12
smtdate: 2022-05-20
termdate: 2022-05-24
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-221-06)
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),C1(20/04,6000m),C2(22/04,6440m),C3(17/05,7100m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Approach: Pangboche, Lobuche

  BC  12/04  5350m
  C1  20/04  5800m
  C2  22/04  6440m
  C3  17/05  7100m tagged on 04/05
  C4  18/05  7900m
  Smt 20/05  by members and Sherpas between 7:30 am and 8 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 1:30 am on 20/05. They decided to leave relatively late as there were not many people on the route. Weather was Ok. Not too windy, but cloudy; however, they got a view on the summit. Straightforward climb. All members descended to C4, where they stayed the night. The Everest team descended to C2 on 21/05 while the Lhotse team left for Lhotse at 1 am.

  Lhotse summited on 21/05 by members and Sherpas at 7:30 am. After the summit the Lhotse team descended to C2, where they arrived at about 2 pm.

  On 22/05 everyone down to BC.

  Other members:

  Courtney reached C2, but had very bad gastro problems back at BC. He had lost too much strength (he took 16 hours from BC to C2 on 3rd rotation) and decided to abandon his summit bid. He was helicoptered down from C2.

  Farmanfarmaian reached C3 on 2nd rotation. During the summit push when he was at C2 he learned that his father was very ill. He was helicoptered out of C2 and left the expedition.

  Mayer reached BC. He left the expedition very early due to problems with his business.

  Ammerman was helicoptered from C2 because he hurt his hip on the Hillary Step.

  Accident: Pemba Chhoti broke his leg when he was negotiating a ladder in the icefall on 22/04. He was carried down on a stretcher and taken by helicopter to HAMS hospital in Kathmandu.

  Everyone left BC on 24/05 by heli.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C2 to top to C2 by members
    Taken and used from C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.


expid: EVER22107
peakid: EVER
year: 2022
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Kenton Cool
sponsor: Kenton Cool Everest Expedition 2022
countries: Canada
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Ever BC
bcdate: 2022-04-23
smtdate: 2022-05-15
smttime: 0430
termdate: 2022-05-17
campsites: BC(23/04,5350m),C1(27/04,6000m),C2(28/04,6440m),C3(12/05,7100m),C4(13/05,7900m),Smt(15/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Approach: Pangboche

  BC  23/04  5350m
  C1  27/04  5800m
  C2  28/04  6440m
  C3  12/05  7100m
  C4  13/05  7900m
  Smt 15/05  by Cool, Smith, Saikaly, Pasang Kaji (PK), Dorjee Gyalzen, Chewang
             Dorje, Chheten Dorjee, Kami Rita, Dawa Jangbu Sherpa (Lukla) at 4:30 am.

  Summit team at 8:15 am. Nims Dai’s team was also on the route. It was a warm night, team was not even wearing mittens on the way. They spent about one hour on the summit as they were doing some filming. The summit was windy. They descended to C2, where they arrived at 4 pm. Back to BC on 16/05. 

  Smith took a helicopter to BC while Cool and Saikaly walked down.

  Team left BC on 17/05 by heli.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C2 to top to C2 by Smith, Saikaly
    From C3 to top to C3 by Cool, PK Sherpa
    From C4 to top to C4 by all other Sherpas.


expid: EVER22109
peakid: EVER
year: 2022
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Lukas Furtenbach
sponsor: Furtenbach Adventures Everest Expedition 2022
countries: Australia, Canada, Germany, Ireland, Israel, New Zealand, UK, USA
approach: Heli to Khote->Mera Peak; heli from Khare to Everest BC
bcdate: 2022-05-04
smtdate: 2022-05-13
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2022-05-16
othersmts: Summited Lhotse (LHOT-221-09)
campsites: BC(04/05,5350m),C1(09/05,6000m),C2(10/04,6440m),C3(11/05,7100m),C4(12/05,7900m),Smt(13/05)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  Acclimatisation heli to Khote on 27/04. Mera Peak summit on 03/05 and another night at 6050m o 03/05. On 04/05 descent to Khare and heli flight to BC

  BC  04/05  5350m
  C1  09/05  5800m
  C2  10/05  6440m
  C3  11/05  7100m
  C4  12/05  7900m
  Smt	13/05  by all members apart from Morissey and Orchard between 6 am and  8 am  
             and 27 Sherpas. 44 people in total.

  Summit team left C4 at 9 am on 12/05. There was not too much traffic, but a few very slow people on the route. After the summit, most members descended to C2 where they arrived between 4 pm and 6 pm.

  Hauer stayed at C4 as he was going to Lhotse with Cosima Eggenberger on 14/05.

  Lhotse Summit on 14/05 by Hauer, Eggenberger, Mingma, Nurbu Tsiring 5:40 am.

  Hauer and Mingma left Everest C4 at 11 pm on 13/05 and picked up Eggenberger and Norbu from Lhotse C4 at around midnight. The Lhotse couloir was very dry but straightforward. They descended to C2.

  Everyone down at BC on 15/05. Team left BC on 16/05.

  Other members:

  Morrissey and Orchard reached C2 on 03/05 (they were part of the Classic team and not on Mera Peak) and left BC on 04/05. Both were not very well physically and left the expedition by helicopter.


expid: EVER22110
peakid: EVER
year: 2022
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Stuart Peacock
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Everest Expedition 2022
countries: Sweden
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Lobuche->Ever BC
bcdate: 2022-04-09
smtdate: 2022-05-12
smttime: 0850
termdate: 2022-05-18
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East
campsites: BC(09/04,5340m),C1(19/04,6100m),C2(20/04,6540m),C3(28/04,7100m),C4(11/05,7900m),Smt(12/05)
agency: Makalu Adventure
routememo:
  Summit team left C4 at 10 pm on 11/05, summited at 8:51 am on 12/05, stayed 10-15 minutes, then descended to C4. Clear sky, with thunderstorms off in the distance to the west. Little or no wind until we reached the main summit. We caught the main line of people below the Balcony and then had to queue from there all the way to the summit. Very slow in the queues.

  Team left BC on 18 May by heli.


expid: EVER22111
peakid: EVER
year: 2022
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Sean James
sponsor: Makalu Adventure Everest Expedition 2022
countries: Iran
smtdate: 2022-05-13
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(13/05)
agency: Makalu Adventure
routememo:
  Approach: Pangboche, Lobuche

  BC  12/04  5350m
  C1  19/04  5800m
  C2  20/04  6440m
  C3  29/04  7100m
  C4  12/05  7900m
  Smt 13/05  by Tahmooresi and Phurba Ong [?] at 3 am, Kershaw and Pemba at 6:15 am, 
             James and Dorje at 6:30 am, Prestidge at 7 am, 
             Rahman and Lakpa at 8 am, Moeckell and Tenzing at 7 am.

  Team spent an average of 30 mins on the summit and descended to C4. On 14/05 all down at BC.

  Team left BC on 14/05: James, Rahman and Tahmooresi by heli, Prestidge and 				Kershaw trekking.

  Oxygen:
    from C3 to top to C3 by James, Prestidge, Kershaw, Taahmooresi [and Moeckell]
    from C2 to top to C2 by Akke
    from C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.


  Report from Saman Tahmooresi:

  BC  11/04  5364m
  C1  16/04  6100m
  C2  17/04  6400m
  C3  11/05  7000m
  C4  12/05  S.Col
  Smt 13/05  by Tahmooresi and Phurba Ongel? [Phu Dorchi]

  Summit push started from C4 at 8 pm of 12 May. Tahmooresi and Sherpa arrived at the weather antenna point about 100m below the summit at 4:10 am, waited there till sunrise. They got to the summit at 6:15 am on 13 May and stayed there 1 hour and 30 minutes. They were the first to reach the summit on that day. They got back to C4 at 9:45 am had rest for an hour then went down to C2. Next day 14 to BC. Left BC on 17 by heli.

  Oxygen: from 7500m-summit-C4. Sherpa from C4-summit-C4.


  The two Russians summited on 12 May without Sherpas. They were on the same permit.


expid: EVER22113
peakid: EVER
year: 2022
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Baker Perry, Peter Athans
sponsor: National Geographic Everest Science Expedition 2022
countries: Nepal, UK
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Lobuje->Ever BC
bcdate: 2022-04-13
smtdate: 2022-05-09
smttime: 1115
termdate: 2022-05-11
campsites: BC(13/04,5350m),C1(18/04,6100m),C2(19/04,6500m),C3(7200m),C4(08/05,7950m),Smt(09/05)
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  Summit team left C4 at midnight of 8 May, summited at 7:30 am on 9 May. Stayed 3 hours to install automated weather system; windy. Returned to S Col at 3 pm.


expid: EVER22114
peakid: EVER
year: 2022
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Frederick Campbell
sponsor: Full Circle Everest Expedition 2022
countries: Canada, Kenya
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Lobuche->Ever BC
bcdate: 2022-04-16
smtdate: 2022-05-12
smttime: 0130
termdate: 2022-05-15
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East (22/04)
campsites: BC(),C1(),C2(),C3(),C4(),Smt(12/05)
achievment: First All-Black Everest expedition
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  Approach: Phakding, Namche, Lobuche, Ever BC.

  BC  16/04  5364m
  C1  26/04  6100m
  C2  28/04  6400m
  C3  30/04  7000m
  C4  11/04  S.Col

  Summit on 12 May by Mullins, Taylor, Kugambi, Ainuu, Saal, Moore, Green, Pasang Ngima, Lakpa Chhiri, Phura Temba, Da Chhiree, Lhakpa Sonam, Ngima Nuru, Chhepal, Chhewang Lendup, Tashi Gyalzen, Amrit Ale (7 members and 10 [13] Sherpas).

  Summit push started all together from C4 at 8 pm of 11 May. First to reach summit was Mullins with Fura Temba at 1:30 am of 12 May followed by other members. By 6:30 am all members reached summit. Three members went down to C2 the same day and next day 13 to BC whereas rest of the members reached BC on 14 May.

  Others:
    Ms. Dione to C3 on 8 May on rotation.
    Campbell to C3 on 8 May (respiratory infection)

  Campbell left BC on 13 May and rest of the members on 15 May by heli.

  Oxygen: members from C3, some from C2, Sherpas from C4.

  Record: First all-Black team to Everest.


expid: EVER22115
peakid: EVER
year: 2022
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Alex Abramov
sponsor: Seven Summits Club Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2022
countries: Israel, Nepal, USA
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Lobuje->Ever BC
bcdate: 2022-04-25
smtdate: 2022-05-12
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2022-05-21
campsites: BC(25/04,5350m),C1(29/04,6000m),C2(30/04,6440m),C3(15/05,7100m),C4(16/05,7950m),Smt(12,17/05)
accidents: Kostrikin died at C2 on 7 May. He went up to C2 on first acclimatization rotation and got sick.
agency: 7 Summits Adventure
routememo:
  Approach: Phakding, Namche, Debuche, Pheriche, Lobuche.

  BC  25 Apr
  C1  29 Apr
  C2  30 Apr
  C3  15 May
  C4  16 May
  Smt 17 May  by Abramov, Brychkin, Bykovskaya, Kovalenko, Kuprichenkov, Manevich,
              Motorkin, Rostovtsev, Rumyantseva, Zaripova and 20 Sherpas.

  First member Kuprichenkov left C4 around 7:30 pm on 16 May and reached summit at 2 am of 17 May. Kuprichenkov reached C4 around 8 am. Last member started from C4 at 9:15 pm on 16 May and all summited between 3:40-5 am. All members stayed on summit between 10-15 minutes.

  Abramov, Bykovskaya, Motorkin reached summit 3:46 am, and Zaripova summited at 3:50 am. Rostovtsev was the last one to reach summit [at 5 am].

  All members went down to C2 on 17 May. Three members Kuprichenkov, Bykovskaya and Kovalenko reached BC on 17 May from C2 by Heli. Rest of the members reached BC on 18 May.

  Ermakov and Kozlov did not summit.  

  Team left BC 20 and 21 May,

  Oxygen: All members from C2, Sherpas from C4?


