# exped

expid: EVER06134
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jacques Letrange
sponsor: Everest in the heart of climate
countries: Belgium
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-10
smtdate: 2006-05-17
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2006-05-23
campsites: BC(10/04,5200m),ABC(15/04,6400m),C1(27/04,7000m),C2(15/05,7500m),C3(16/05,8000m),Smt(17/05)
accidents: Letrange fatality on descent from summit
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  Summit team left C3 at 10:30 pm on 16 May. The weather was calm and clear [when they summited at 12:00.] Near the mushroom rock at about 8600m, Jacques on the descent collapsed due to exhaustion. De Bare, Pemba and Pasang Sona tried to drag him down and talk him into moving for about 6-1/2 hours, but to no avail. They left him at about 6 pm and went back to C3 and stayed the night there.

  Caroline who had reached C3 on 16 May, had already descended to C1 on 17 May. On 18 May she went to ABC and remaining summit team descended to C1. De Bare informed Caroline via radio about her husband's death on 18 May in the afternoon.

  When she found out she tried to find people to go back up to check on her husband. But could not find anybody. Two Sherpas, one from Dan Mazur's team, told her that they saw her husband and that he was definitely dead.

  She then asked a member of the Everest Max Expedition leader (Dominic Faulkner) to bring down some personal things for her. Andrew Sutherland, the expedition doctor of the Everest Max team, brought down some personal things on 21 May.

  Oxygen: De Bare and J. Letrange from C2 to top, De Bare to C4. Sherpas from C3 to top to C3.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Pasang Sona, aka Ang Sona, 21/7/77, Thami Og, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X1, Apa's son
    Kunga, 19/4/61, Rolwaling, Cho Oyu X4
    Pemba Tenjin, 2/2/1976 (19/10/2032), Phurte, Namche-4


expid: EVER06127
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Kalpana Dash
sponsor: Team Everest
approach: Lukla->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-04
smtdate: 2006-05-20
termdate: 2006-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to Sherpas refusal to continue due to her tiredness/sickness
campsites: BC(04/04,5300m),C1(19/04,6000m),C2(20/04,6300m),C3(26/04,7300m),C4(20/05,7900m),xxx(20/05,7900m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Dash and Sherpas left C3 at 6 am and arrived at 7900m at C4 at 4 pm. She wanted to stay the night and go for the summit but the Sherpas refused to stay the night and go for the summit. But Sherpas refused to take her up and said she was too sick. She was very angry about it when she spoke to me. They descended to C3, where they arrived at 7 pm.

  An Austrian climber, Ronald Mattle, who was attempting to climb Lhotse saw Dash on her descent between C2 and C3. He said she was extremely tired and sick; she was throwing up. Mattle thought the Sherpas were right to turn her back.


expid: EVER06128
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Philippines
leaders: Romeo Garduce
sponsor: Mt Everest Climb for a Cause
bcdate: 2006-04-03
smtdate: 2006-05-19
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2006-05-22
campsites: BC(03/04,5300m),C1(13/04,6100m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3(05/05,7000m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(19/05)
achievment: If Abenojar's summit is affirmative, Garduce will be the fourth Filippino to summit Everest
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Garduce, Lhakpa Rangdu, Lhakpa Nuru and Pasang Sherpa left C4 at 21:30 hours on 18th, reached summit at 11:00 hours on 19th. Stayed on summit about 15-20 minutes, returned to C4 at 16:30 hours. Next day to BC at 19:30 hours. Other people summited on that day were Koreans, Americans and Apa Sherpa with whom Garduce had taken photograph. Weather was good. 

  The Garduce team returned to Kathmandu on May 24 and will leave on 25th.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Lhakpa Rangdu, 18/11/67, Sotang-6, Ever X1, Cho Oyu X2
    Lhakpa Nuru, 23/5/78, Namche, Ever X2
    Pasang, 28 yrs old, Garma-5, Solu


expid: EVER06129
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Africa
leaders: Sean Disney
sponsor: Everest South Africa 2006 Expedition
approach: Lukla->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-09
smtdate: 2006-05-24
smttime: 0530
termdate: 2006-05-27
campsites: BC(09/04,5360m),C1(15/04,6100m),C2(21/04,6400m),C3(28/04,7200m),C4(22/05,7950m),Smt(24/05)
accidents: Hochreiter frostbite
achievment: Disney's youngest South African to scale seven summits; oldest South African De La Harpe
agency: High Country Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier.

  De La Harpe, Disney, Pemba Gyalje and Nang Chombi Sherpa and Jangbu Sherpa left C4 at 21:00 hours on May 23. All except Jangbu reached summit at 05:30 hours of 24th, stayed at summit about 30 minutes, descended to C4 at 09:30 hours. Next day to C2 and the following day to BC. Jangbu Sherpa came up to Balcony, but due to excessive cough, he had to turn around. 

  The team was to reach summit first from south side. The Disney team met at summit Turkish expedition members and Sherpas, about six people from north side. Then followed by Adventure Consultants and IMG members from south side. There may be other 4 or 5 people on the summit. Weather was perfect, no wind. While descending it was cold and little windy. 

  The Disney team returned to Kathmandu on May 30 and will leave on June 1. Disney is planning to come for Cho Oyu next year. 

  Other member of the team Hochreiter who got initial frostbite left Lobuche on April 30 by helicopter to Kathmandu and left the country on May 1.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Gyalzen/Gyalje, 29/11/93, Pangkoma, Solu, Ever X5, Cho Oyu X2
    Nang Chombi, 24/10/77, Kharikhola, Ever X2, Cho Oyu X1
    Jangbu Sherpa, 19/9/79, Kharikhola, Ever X2


expid: EVER06138
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Tateo Yamashita
sponsor: Yamashita Tateo Qomolangma 8848m Expedition 2006
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-21
smtdate: 2006-05-15
smttime: 0815
termdate: 2006-05-21
campsites: BC(21/04,5200m),ABC(05/04,6500m),C1(28/04,7050m),C2(13/05,7800m),C3(14/05,8300m),Smt(15/05)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  Yamashita, Pasang Tshering Sherpa and Kami Singee Tamang left C3 at 00:00 hours on May 14, summited at 08:15 hours of 15th, stayed on summit 30 minutes, descended to North Col at 20:00 hours. After three days to CBC. Summit day weather was good, but afternoon was windy and snowfall. Yamashita said thay May 14 to 20 was good weather; about 10 people summited on the 15th. Yamashita said he saw the dead body of British (Sharp) at Second Step and two more at 8400m, another one at 8700m. Mark Inglis (NZ double amputee) summited almost together with Yamashita. Yamashita returned to Kathmandu on May 22 and will leave on 27th.

  Hired summiters:
    Pasang Tshering/Tshiring Sherpa, 10/4/63, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X4
    Kami Singee Tamang, 16/7/77, Syamba, Rasuwa, probably 1st 8000er


expid: EVER06131
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
route2: S Col-SE Ridge (up); NE Ridge-N Col (down)
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Karl Kobler
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Everest Expedition 2006
countries: Austria
approach: Lukla->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-10
smtdate: 2006-05-17
smttime: 1530
termdate: 2006-05-20
othersmts: Had permit for Lhotse (did not attempt)
campsites: BC(10/04,5300m),C1(15/04,6000m),C2(16/04,6300m),C3(25/04,7300m),C4(15/05,8000m),Smt(17/18,05)
accidents: Fessler altitude sickness; Merat eye problem
agency: Iceland Trekking (Dorje)
routememo:
  17 May summit team and Julen, Fessler, Nima Tendu and Kobler left C4 at 11 pm on 16 May. Julen, Fessler and Kobler turned back at 8500m at 6 am as Kobler decided it was too late and he thought Julen had a better chance for his traverse the following day. Arnold, Nima Tendu and Namgyal carried on to the summit. The weather was cloudy and it was snowing slightly. After summiting they descended to C4, where they arrived at 6 pm. Kobler and Fessler had already descended to C2 on 17 May as Fessler was slightly altitude sick. Arnold, Namgyal and Nima Tendu descended to BC on 18 May.

  On 17 May Julen and Da Nima started summit push at 9 pm. They arrived at the summit at 5:20 am Nepali time. They descended via the North Col and arrived at ABC at 11 am Nepali time on 18 May. They were the first team to summit that day. The conditions were good, especially on the north side. They used oxygen until 8300m.

  Frehner got to 7300m (Kobler could not remember the date), but turned back due to
    weakness.
  Holdener got to 8300m on 19 May but turned back due to cold hands and feet.
  Merat got to C3 on 12 May, but abandoned her climb due to an altitude related eye
    infection (she had developed a spot in her left eye).
  Meyer had to leave the expedition in Pangboche; her mother died and she returned
    home.

  The team had abandoned idea of a Lhotse attempt altogether on 12 May due to Merat eye infection and lack of enthusiasm by all others.

  Sherpas:
    Namgyal, 11/8/71, Lelep-8, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1
    Da Nima, Bhakanje, Solu, 18/06/72, Everest X2
    Nima Tendu/Thenduk/Thundu, 31/8/73, Pangboche


expid: EVER06132
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: S. C. Negi
sponsor: First Indian Border Security Forces (BSF) Everest Expedition 2006
approach: Lukla->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-14
smtdate: 2006-05-20
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2006-05-27
campsites: BC(14/04,5300m),C1(21/04,6000m),C2(01/05,6300m),C3(18/05,7000m),C4(19/05,7900m),Smt(20,24/05)
accidents: Pulmonary edema by Dinesh Bhagat Negi
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  20 May summit team left C4 on 19 May at 9 pm. Weather was clear, good views from summit. There were about 30 people on the summit. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 9 pm. Negi, the leader, did not go for the summit that day as he wanted to be able to organize rescue if needed. He was in C2 and stayed there from 18 May to 21 May. 

  Negi, Rita Dorje and Pemba Gyalzen left C4 at 10 pm on 23 May. The weather was clear. There were about 25 people on the summit. After summiting they descended to C2, where they arrived at 4 pm. Negi stayed on top without oxygen for 15 minutes. 

  Satish Chander Nair could not climb due to his heavy weight. He never got beyond BC.

  Dinesh Bhagat Negi got pulmonary edema in Lobuche on 9 April. He was evacuated to Kathmandu on 14 April and flew back to Lukla on 30 April. He returned to BC on 9 May where he stayed the rest of the expedition.

  Sangram Munde got to C3 on 14 May. He turned back due to a bad cough and descended to C2 and never ascended again.


  Member summiters:

  20 May:
    BOUNTHIYAL, Kamlash Kumar
    DAHAL, Manoj
    DHARMSHAKTU,Loveraj Singh
    KORANGA, Kedar Singh
    LOHIA, Parveen Singh
    RAWAT, Bhagat Singh

  24 May:
    NEGI, Sharab Chandub

  Sherpa summiters:

  20 May:
    Rita Dorje, 24/10/77, Phortse, Everest 26/5/03
    Nima Kancha, 26 years old, Khumjung, 1st 8000er
    Thukten Dorje, 30/6/68, Thami, Everest X4
    Pemba Tshering, 18/4/79, Khumjung, Everest X2
    Thsering Phinjo, 29/4/73, Khumjung, 1st 8000er
    Ang Chuldim, 23/7/67, Khumjung, 1st 8000er
    Nima Tshering, 22/4/72, Phortse, Everest 5/6/05

  24 May:
    Pemba Gyalzen, 4/9/74, Phortse, 1st 8000er
    Nawang Karsang, 26/11/67, Khumjung, 1st 8000er
    Rita Dorje (again from C2)


expid: EVER06114
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Taiwan
leaders: Yu-Cheng Kuo
sponsor: Independent climber on Everest
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2006-04-16
smtdate: 2006-05-19
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2006-05-21
campsites: BC(16/04,5645m),C1(21/04,6195m),C2(24/04,6665m),C3(02/05,7150m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Nomad Expeditions
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 at usual campsite
  C2 at usual campsite
  C3 at usual campsite
  C4 at South Col.

  Kuo and Pasang left C4 at 23:00 hours on May 18, reached summit at 10:30 hours of May 19, stayed about 20 minutes on summit, descended to C4 about 17:00 hours. Next day to BC. Summit day weather was windy. The expedition team returned to Kathmandu on May 24 and will leave on 25.

  Pasang Sherpa, Taksindu-5, Solukhumbu, 21 years old, 1st 8000er


expid: EVER06126
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Mongolia
leaders: Ganbaatar Begzsuren
sponsor: Mongolian Everest Expedition 2006
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2006-05-06
smtdate: 2006-05-23
termdate: 2006-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to severe toothache of Tseren
campsites: BC(06/05,5300m),C1(11/05,6100m),C2(12/05,6400m),C3(13/05,7100m),C4(22/05,7985m),xxx(23/05,8100m)
agency: Churen Himal Treks
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C2 at usual campsite
  C3 at usual campsite
  C4 at South Col.

  Begzsuren, Tseren, Pasang Sherpa and Shree Maharjan left C4 at 21:30 hours on May 22, reached 8100m. Tseren suffered from severe toothache, then decided to turn around to C4. Next day descended to C2 and following day to BC. The weather was very good. South Col was little windy which is normal. The team returned to Kathmandu on May 30th and trying to leave on 4th.

  Hired:
    Pasang Sherpa, Jiri, 11/8/1975, summited Everest with Mongolian Exp in 2005
    Shree Maharjan, 11/12/80, Kathmandu, no 8000ers


expid: EVER06125
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Philippines
leaders: Arturo Valdez
sponsor: First Philippine Mt. Everest Expedition
approach: Lukla->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-17
smtdate: 2006-05-17
smttime: 1530
termdate: 2006-05-21
campsites: BC(17/04,5340m),C1(26/04,6000m),C2(27/04,6300m),C3(09/05,7115m),C4(16/05,7900m),Smt(17-18/05)
achievment: 1st National Philippines expedition to summit Everest from south
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier.

  Oracion and Pemba Chhoti Sherpa left C4 at 22:00 hours on May 16, summited at 15:30 hours of 17th, stayed on summit for 30 minutes, descended to C4 at 22:00 hours. When they started it was windy and snowfalling but when they got up higher it was quiet and no snowfall. Ahead of the team were British, Swiss and others. Pemba was among the first one to lead on the final stretch to summit.

  On 17th Emata and Lakpa Gyalzen Sherpa started from C4 at 21:20 hours. Reached summit at 05:20 hours on the 18th, stayed on summit for 30 minutes, descended to C4 at 09:45 hours, rested for about 3 hours, then went down to C2 together with Oracion and Sherpas. It was very windy. The 18th summit day weather was very good. Emata team met summiters from north side. Behind Emata were Spanish and Korean teams who came to summit from south side.

  The expedition returned to Kathmandu on May 25 and leave the country on 29.

  The expedition leader said that the Philippine National expedition is planning to send a bigger expedition to Everest in 2007 which will include at least 3 women members.


expid: EVER06119
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Eiko Funahasi
sponsor: Independent team on Everest
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2006-04-11
smtdate: 2006-05-18
termdate: 2006-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to bad weather, strong wind and snowfall
campsites: BC(11/04,5380m),C1(01/05,6050m),C2(02/05,6400m),C3(18/05,7200m),xxx(18/05,7200m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  While at C3 weather was bad, windy and snowfall. Sherpas told members to turn around and Funahashi and Uchida decided to call off their climbing. The team returned to Kathmandu on May 24 and will leave on 27.

  Pasang Gyalzen Sherpa, 18/7/76, Kerabari, Siddhapokhari-8, Sankhuwasabha, Everest 31/5/05


expid: EVER06137
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Malaysia
leaders: Ravichandran Tharumalingam
sponsor: Malaysian Everest 2006
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-05
smtdate: 2006-05-15
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2006-05-18
campsites: BC(05/04,5200m),ABC(6400m),C1(25/04,7100m),C2(13/05,7600m),C3(14/05,8200m),Smt(15/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Tharumalingam and Nawang Tenzing left C3 (8200m) about 21:30 hours NST of May 14 and reached summit between 14:00-14:30 hours of 15th, stayed on summit less than 5 minutes. They were the last ones to reach summit on that day. Nawang said that they had to wait for 2 hours at Second Step while ascending. On the summit clouds were down, visibility was very poor, the wind was strong. Tharumalingam tried to photograph but his camera did not work. Nawang took out the camera battery and put in his pocket. While descending Nawang tired to take photographs at close to mushroom rock and the camera battery worked. Then Tharumalingam and Nawang descended to their top camp (8200m) where they reached between 18:00-18:30 hours. On May 16 reached ABC and on 17th morning left for CBC while Nawang went back to North Col to pick up stuff from their camp. Tharumalingam left CBC on May 18 and arrived Kathmandu on 19th evening. He stayed one night at Hotel Norbulinka and rest of the days with one staff members of the Malaysian Embassy. He left Kathmandu on May 25. Tharumalingam in his email said that he realized about the frostbite at the summit when he took out the mitten. The numb feeling started after the Second Step.

  Tharumalingam, Sharp and Nawang Tenzing reached together at ABC. Due to weather condition Tharumalingam and Nawag Tenzing stayed at ABC. But Sharp continued his ascend. Tharumalingam writes about Sharp who was a day ahead of Tharumalingam going towards summit. But, he does not know if Sharp had summited. Tharumalingam and Nawang Tenzing met Sharp on 15th morning at around 8500m on their ascent and the last one to see Sharp on their descent. Nawang Tenzing said while going up he saw Sharp sitting beside another dead body and looking something in his bag. At that time Nawang Tenzing did not realize that it was Sharp. Nawang Tenzing said on their descent Sharp was already dead. Both, Tharumalingam and Nawang Tenzing have no idea about the high camps of Sharp. Tharmalingam in his email (Aug 4, 2006) said that it is difficult to say if Sharp reached the summit or not. He said that when he saw him (Sharp), he was still alive and could not communicate or not responding. Tharumalingam further added that "He (Sharp) was a detailed person so I believe he reached the summit on 14th."


expid: EVER06130
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Shin Jang-Seop
sponsor: 2006 Korean Chung-Dong 100th Anniversary Everest Expedition
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2006-04-04
smtdate: 2006-05-17
smttime: 1510
termdate: 2006-05-24
campsites: BC(04/04,5349m),C1(13/04,6000m),C2(24/04,6300m),C3(01/05,7200m),C4(12/05,7950m),Smt(17,19/05)
achievment: 1st South Korean to top in the season
agency: Hyecho Adventure Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 at usual campsite
  C3 at usual campsite
  C3 at usual campsite
  C4 at South Col.

  Min Yeon-Sik, Shin Jang-Seop, Youn Sheong-Weon, Nima Gyalzen, Chomba Nurbu, Nawang Wongchu, Phurtemba left C4 at midnight of May 16. After about an hour Youn, Nawang Wongchu, Phurtemba decided to turn around. At South Summit Min's oxygen mask did not work. He waited there for others to descend from top. Shin Jang-Seop, Nima Gyalzen and Chomba Nurbu summited at 15:10 hours, stayed on summit for 10 minutes then descended to C4 at about 20:00 hours. Next day all descended to C2. At the beginning it was cloudy and windy; when they reached around Balcony it was quite and no wind. At summit it was cloudy around the summit. 

  Choi, Lee, Park, Da Gyalzen, Nawang Lhakpa and Thile Nuru started 20:30 hours of May 18. After 30 minutes they found Miss Kwak of Korean Dream Everest Expedition (broken hips, both hands frostbitten); apparently she might have fallen down. She was carried down by three members and Sherpas to C4. She was given oxygen and attended by two members and Sherpas. Lee, Nawang Lhakpa and Thile Nuru restarted from C4 at 23:00 hours. After 30 minutes climb they found Lee Sang-Bae of Korean Dream Everest Expedition lying almost unconscious. Lee, Nawang Lhakpa and Thile Nuru brought him to C4 and gave him oxygen. Then Lee, Nawang Lhakpa and Thile Nuru again started after mid-night. The team reached summit at 11:00 hours, stayed on summit little more than 30 minutes, descended to C4 at 17:50 hours. 

  The expedition returned to Kathmandu on May 28 and will leave on 31st.

  Summiters 17 May
    Changba/Chongba Sherpa, Tate, Chaurikharka-7, 41
      Summits: Everest 4X, Dhaulagiri I, Ama Dablam, Anna IV & Pumori 1X each, 
        Cho Oyu X1
    Nima Gyalzen Sherpa, Ghat, Chaurikharka-6, 31/8/86
      Summits: Pumori 1X, Ama Dablam 4X, 1st 8000er

  Summiters 19 May
    Thile Nurbu Sherpa, Chaurikharka-3, 26/5/74
      Summits: Everest 2X and Ama Dablam 1X
    Nawang Lhakpa Sherpa, aka Ngawang Lhakpa, Chaplung, Chaurikharka-3
      Summits: Everest 1X, Pumori 1X, and Ama Dablam 2X


expid: EVER06139
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Kenneth Hill
sponsor: Second Try Expedition 2006 to Everest
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-05
smtdate: 2006-05-17
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2006-05-23
campsites: BC(05/04,5400m),ABC(13/04,6400m),C1(19/04,7000m),C2(01/05,7600m),C3(16/05,8300m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 12th at 5900m
  C1 at little lower than North Col.

  Hill left C3 at 02:30 hours (NST) on 16th, summited at 10:00 hours, stayed on summit about half an hour, descended to C2 where he reached at 16:00 hours. Next day to ABC. Hill showed his summit photograph without clothes waist up. He said he took off clothes for few seconds. Weather was very good, clear, saw Lhotse, Makalu. He saw clouds forming on the east side. About 50 people summited on that day. Hill had to wait for less than an hour at the First Step, two hours at the Second Step (about 30 people were ahead of him), and at Third Step an hour. 

  Hill returned to Kathmandu on May 23 and trying to leave on 25. 

  Mrs Lakpa Sherpa arranged for him two oxygen cylinders and a porter to carry them to C3.


expid: EVER06140
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Mathieu Fagnan
sponsor: Math Everest Expedition
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-09
smtdate: 2006-05-02
termdate: 2006-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to bad cold
campsites: BC(09/04,5200m),ABC(15/04,6360m),C1(30/04,7060m),C2(01/05,7500m),xxx(02/05,7600m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Fagnan suffered from a bad cold while resting for summit attempt at CBC. He left CBC for summit and reached North Col on May 15 where he spent a night. Due to bad health he gave up the climb. Fagnan returned to Kathmandu on May 24 and left Nepal on May 25. He stayed in Manang Hotel.


expid: EVER06141
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Joby Ogwyn
sponsor: Independent climber on Everest
bcdate: 2006-04-10
smtdate: 2006-05-05
termdate: 2006-05-18
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(10/04,5150m),ABC(16/04,6450m),xxx(05/05,8600m)
agency: World Records Expeditions
routememo:
  High point at bottom of Second Step.

  1st week at mountain weather very cold and snow; me and Klein (Hungarian) till April 19 to BC and 21st to Tingri. 27th back from Tingri and to ABC (Klein on 28th). Went to North Col for his first view of route and to see what ropes had been installed on 28th and down to ABC. Since ropes installed quite high, decided to do his speed climb immediately in good weather. 

  On 1 May up as far as 7500m where rocky area starts and down to ABC in 2 hour 45 minutes ascent. Left ABC 11:00 pm 4 May for non-stop ascent to top in 14 hours from base of route at 6550m; left base one minute after midnight (NST); went very well to 7500m in 3 hours; now on route he didn't know, warm night and route mostly rock not covered by snow and easy to see where to put his feet. Never used fixed ropes (except as guide to where route was) continued up steep rocks and up towards North Ridge, still moving fast; sun came up and could now see very well (had been no moonlight) and little wind. Around 10:00 am reached high point at about 8600m at bottom of 2nd Step, stopped to reached for 30-40 minutes; clouds rising all morning and now started snowing which got worse and worse, so down; at 8000m met Sherpas and descended with them in snowstorm which at times brought white out. Down to C1 that night and ABC 6 May. Weather got colder and "lost a lot of power" at that altitude and wind strong next few days. 15th May, after staying at ABC all the time, left at 4:00 pm to 7500m at 7:00 pm, stayed in Australian's tent there warm himself but stayed all night because fierce cold wind. Waited for Klein to descend to 7500m both together to ABC at 16th afternoon. Climb now finished. 

  "Saw that I could make speed ascent in good conditions" and will comeback on 2007, probably on south route. "I think I can set a new standard."


expid: EVER06142
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Vincent Waters
sponsor: Guelph Everest Expedition 2006
bcdate: 2006-04-09
smtdate: 2006-05-15
termdate: 2006-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to sickness (pneumonia)
campsites: BC(09/04,6400m),ABC(18/04,6400m),C1(30/04,7060m),C2A(01/05,7500m),C2B(15/05,7700m),xxx(15/05,7700m)
accidents: Waters assisted back to ABC after encountering breathing difficulties
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  High point at C2.

  2nd May gusty wind and spindrift piling up against tent, and took tent off and went to ABC with Matt Fangman. 4 May to BC. 6th May Pasang village at 4300m. Returned to BC 8 May; ABC on 11 May; C1 on 14 May; 15th to 7700m. 16th very tired and weak to go higher than 5 meters, so returned to 7700m. 17th down in afternoon to C1 at 11:00 pm, very weak and difficulty breathing. 18th still very slow and weak and put on oxygen by doctor of Everest Max team at C1. Spanish lead by Buendia up from ABC on 19th to help Waters down and lowered him down to ABC and now on his own oxygen. 20th yaks to BC. 21st left for Kathmandu.


expid: EVER06144
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Brazil
leaders: Paulo Coelho
sponsor: Brazilians on Everest
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-17
smtdate: 2006-04-29
termdate: 2006-05-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to disappearance of equipment in C2
campsites: BC(17/04,5200m),ABC(21/04,6400m),C1(28/04,7000m),C2(29/04,16/05,25/05,7800m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  On their first summit push on 16 May, the team left C1 at 9 am. Paolo met Ravi from Malaysia at 7500m, who was on his way down;he had bad frostbite. Helena descended to North Col after Paolo informed her by radio. She was slightly behind Paolo. Paolo, Ravi and his Sherpa descended to North Col (after Paolo had deposited his gear at C2). They ate some food there and Paolo, Ravi and his Sherpa descended to ABC, where they arrived at 10 pm Nepali time. Helena descended on 17 May to ABC and both descended to BC on same day. Ravi was taken to Kathmandu on 19 May. The Coelhos do not know whether Ravi summited. 

  Their 2nd summit attempt on 25 May was shattered as they found their tent at C2 was destroyed and sleeping bags, mattresses and stove was gone. They arrived at C2 in the early afternoon. They left their tent at C2 and descended to C1, where they arrived at 5 pm in very bad weather. The next day (26 May) they descended to ABC. They say they do not know what happened to their stuff.

  On the same day, 25 May, Josette Valloton also found her tent to be empty at C2. However, she found out that her stuff (sleeping bag and mattress) was mistakenly taken by a Sherpa of Russell Brice's team.


expid: EVER06145
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Clark Jackson
sponsor: Dream Everest 2006
bcdate: 2006-04-05
smtdate: 2006-05-13
termdate: 2006-05-23
campsites: BC(05/04,5200m),ABC(14/04,6400m),C1(21/04,7000m),C2(10/05,7800m),C3(12/05,8100m),Smt(13/05)
achievment: Probably first American Indian to summit Everest
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 13 April at 5800m about
  C1 at North Col (little lower)
  C3 at lower than usual campsite.

  Jackson and Gyaluk left the camp at 8100m at 22:00 hours (NST) on May 12 and reached summit at 10:30 hours of 13th. They stayed on summit for 20 minutes and was back to 8100m at about 18:30 hours. Next day to C2. Weather was good, little windy but not too cold. More than 20 people were ahead of Jackson team and behind them were only few people. May be Chinese or Korean, but could not recognize them. Jackson said he had to wait at Second Step about 3 hours, very tired. Jackson also said that David Sharp was frozen, he refused to take oxygen. Sherpas tried to help him but Sharp refused their help. 

  Jackson returned to Kathmandu on May 23 and will leave on 25.

  Sherpa summiter: 
    Gyaluk/Gyalu, 18/4/75, Patle, Everest 27/5/04


expid: EVER06146
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Brazil
leaders: Rodrigo Raineri
sponsor: Try On-Go Outside Expedition 2006 to Everest
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-05
smtdate: 2006-05-18
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2006-05-25
campsites: BC(05/04,5200m),ABC(14/04,6400m),C1(19/04,7100m),C2(11/05,7700m),C3(17/05,8300m),Smt(18/05)
accidents: Negrete died due to hypothermia
achievment: 1st Brazilian to summit Everest
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 13 April at 5800m
  C1 at North Col
  C2 for Negrete on 25 April
  C3 for Negrete on 17 May.

  Negrete left alone C3 at 22:30 hours (NST) on May 17, reached summit between 12:30-13:00 hours on May 18th. Stayed on summit for about 10 minutes. Negrete contacted Ang Dawa at C3 at about 18:00 hours and asked for rescue. Ang Dawa immediately left C3. He met the rescue team of Peace Expedition black member at about 200m above the C3, Ang Dawa found Negrete lying between First and Second Step (maybe 8500m). Ang Dawa took off his oxygen mask and put it on to Negrete. Negrete's outer gloves were hooked on to his down jacket and inner gloves were kept inside the jacket. Ang Dawa put on both gloves on Negrete's hands and helped Negrete to drink hot water. Negrete's both hands were frozen and became white. Ang Dawa could not understand what Negrete saying - his words were not clear. At times Negrete ask Ang Dawa to leave him  there. Negrete could not walk by himself. Somehow Ang Dawa managed to bring Negrete to the place where a small rock face is near to C3. Exhausted Ang Dawa then asked his younger brother Pechumbi who was at C3 to come and help him. Two Sherpa brothers brought Negrete to their tent at C3 at 01:00 hours of 19th. The two brothers started massaging Negrete's body and hands, helped him to drink warm juice. It was windy. Negrete was kept between the two brothers. At about 02:00 hours Negrete took quick breath for three times and became motionless. Ang Dawa and Pechumbi raised Negrete's head and hands but there was not any movement. Both the Sherpas were shocked to see that happened. Ang Dawa nervously started calling Dawa Sherpa whose tent was opposite of their tent. It was windy and Ang Dawa did come. (Dawa Sherpa - speed traversed from CBC to BC in 20 hours and 15 minutes. He was with Everest Parivars' expedition). Ang Dawa and Pechumbi left C3 at 05:00 hours to ABC where they arrived between 12:00-13:00 hours. Ang Dawa informed Raineri who was at CBC about the death of Negrete. Raineri came to ABC next day around noon time. The body of Negrete was buried little away from C3 on the left side on May 22 with consultation of family of Negrete.

  Raineri's highest point is 7700m. He had sore throat and went down to CBC for rest. Raineri returned to Kathmandu on May 25 and left on June 03.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Dawa Sherpa, 27/4/81 on citizenship certificate, but he says 28/4/82,
      Tashigaon, Makalu-5, Sankhuwasabha, Everest in 2004 and 2005 with Mrs Lakpa
      Sherpa
    Pechumbi Sherpa, youngest brother of Ang Dawa (he is 17 or 18 years old), 
      no summits



  Email correspondence Paul Firth and Rodrigo Raineri [regarding Vitor Negrete] 
  Sent 29 December 2007, replied July 27, 2009

  Raineri:
   
  I did climb Mount Everest on May 27th, 2008. In this expedition I did climb to 8000 oxygenless, but used oxygen to the top. 
   
  In 2005 I slept one night at 7500m and next day I reached 8300 oxygenless, then 30 hours later start to the summit and got very close to it with oxygen (less than 50 vertical meters). In 2006 I slept one night at 7800, then my partner died and I came back home.

  Firth (lowercase), Raineri (UPPERCASE): [with some spelling correction]

  We obtained a record of the death of Mr Negrete in this record. In the Database it states he radioed for help during his descent. YES.
   
  Sherpa Ang Dawa came up AND VITOR CONTINUED DOWN, found him with bad frostbite and hypothermia YES. He helped him back to his tent YES. 

  They attempted to warm him there but he died about 1 hour (2 HOURS) after getting into the tent. We were wondering if you could provide us with any further details:
   
  1. Do you know why Mr Negrete initially needed help - was he exhausted, did he have cerebral edema, pulmonary edema, or was he already hypothermic, or a combination of these causes? What did he say on the radio? I DIDN'T HEAR THE RADIO. I ONLY KNOW HE CALLED FOR HELP ABOVE THE SECOND STEP, BUT CONTINUED ON HIS WAY DOWN AND MET THE SHERPA BELOW THE FIRST STEP.

  2. Was he using oxygen? NO. OXYGENLESS SOLO ASCENT.

  3. Was the weather bad at the time - high winds, poor visibility, clouds, or particularly cold weather? HIGH WINDS, CLOUDS AND COLD WEATHER.

  4. Why do you think he died - hypothermia, altitude illness or some other cause? TALKING TO SOME DOCTORS, FRIENDS AND ALSO MOUNTAIN CLIMBERS, WE GOT THE CONCLUSION VITOR COULD HAVE HAD A HEART STOP CAUSED BY HEATING AGAIN, RECOVERING FROM HYPOTHERMIA. HE TALKED TO THE SHERPA HIS LUNGS PAIN. MAYBE HE HAD FROSTBITE IN THE LUNGS (THE SHERPAS BELIEVE THIS CAN HAPPEN).

  5. Is there any other information you think is relevant to this death. HE HAD SOME BREATH DISEASES WHEN YOUNG, AND USED SOME MEDICINE TO PREVENT THIS (BRONQUITIS?).


expid: EVER06147
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: E Ridge (to 6000m)
route2: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Gheorghe Dijmarescu
sponsor: USA-Nepal Everest Expedition
countries: Nepal
bcdate: 2006-03-28
smtdate: 2006-05-11
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2006-05-19
campsites: BC(25/03),ABC(02/04,6400m),C1(08/05,7000m),C2(09/05,7800m),C3(10/05,8300m),Smt(11/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col.

  Spent nights of 2nd to 5th April at ABC, then BC for a week to rest, then to ABC 13th April stayed there till 16th when all except Lakpa went to bottom of NW Face, up a couloir of NE Ridge and started climbing the face fixing rope. Plan was to scale NE Ridge to junctions of East and NE Ridges, leave gear cache and have look at East Ridge's upper part and icefall at bottom of ridge; climbed one day to almost 6000m and then started to snow, which brought heavy snow into their prominent couloir, which could mean avalanching, so same day back to ABC till 20th when walking in deep snow around foot of NE Ridge to Rapha La to see snow conditions on East Ridge, expecting okay conditions but actually in worse conditions with leaning towers of snow and ice (looked like back of dinosaur) and top part of ridge heavily crevassed; decided ridge too dangerous and out of condition and back to ABC having abandoned any plan to climb East Ridge. 

  So started ferrying oxygen to North Col on 23rd. Watson and John Bagnulo of Mazur's expedition left C3 at midnight of 10/11th May and on top 7:00 am (Watson) and 7:20 am (Bagnulo) and down to ABC at 4:00 pm, Gheorghe, Lakpa and Dawa Nuru left C3 at 0:30 hours of 11th and caught up with Watson and Bagnolo at mushroom rock because Watson and Bagnolo had to break trail (Bagnolo C3 to First Step and Watson First Step to top). Gheorghe, Lakpa and Dawa Nuru also to ABC (all 4 members together from North Col to ABC).

  Oxygen used by all 4 members in C2 on 9th May to sleep, up to top (in C3 and climbing) and down, Watson down to ABC, other 3 to North Col.

  Rope fixed: 300m on face of NE Ridge; none elsewhere.


expid: EVER06148
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Nyima Tsering
sponsor: 2006 China Afterhours Exp to Qomolungma & First Mongolian Women's Exp
countries: Mongolia
bcdate: 2006-04-03
smtdate: 2006-05-14
smttime: 0815
termdate: 2006-05-17
campsites: BC(03/04,5300m),ABC(6400m),C1(11/05,7028m),C2(13/05,8300m),Smt(14/05)
agency: None
routememo:
  Nima Tshering of the CTMA was the leader of combined Chinese and Mongolian expeditions:

    2006 China Afterhours Expedition to Qomolungma
    First Mongolian Women's Expedition (Mongol Altai Mountaineering Club) 

  They climbed together and shared camps and Tibetan staff.


  So Near, Yet So Far - 2006-05-18 Mongol Messenger

  To climb a mountain is a glorious achievement; to come close and have to turn back is a bitter one. A Mongolian women's team last week came extremely close to scaling Mt. Everest and stand higher than anyone else in the world - but had to turn back within sight of their goal. Erdene-Togtokh is a smallish Mongolian woman with a charming smile. Everest is a towering giant with a grim face, the highest mountain in the world; they would seem to have little in common. But they have been in intimate contact, because Erdene-Togtokh is one of Mongolia's best mountaineers, man or woman, given the title Master of Sport. She spent most of September in Tibet with three others in a Mongolian women's team, training for the Everest ascent by climbing up and down the 7117m My Tangla mountain - several times. Back from Tibet, they went to Russia to practice on more mountains. 

  The team was led by B. Gangaamaa and included Ch. Terbish and P. Sarantuya. All members, aged 31-38, have each been climbing for over 15 years. Erdene-Togtokh comes from Dalanzadgad, in the south Gobi, where the local people are better known as cameleers than as Sherpas. Sponsored by Ivanhoe Mines, she was hoping to have her photo taken standing where Tiger Tensing Norgay and Edmund Hillary were the first to pose for a photo, over 50 years ago, on top of the world. Last year the first-ever Mongolian conquest of Everest was achieved by a male team. One of the successful climbers, G. Osokhbayar, was there to advise and help the women. Three of the women started the last stage at 8:30 am May 15, leaving Sarantuya at the last camp. Frustratingly, the team was forced to turn back at various stages. Gangaamaa reached 6400m, Terbish made it to 7900m and only 148m from the top, Erdene-Togtokh was forced to turn back suffering from snow blindness. Osokhbayar went on with a Sherpa and reached the top for his second time at noon Mongolian time (09:45 NST). S. Zaya said, "Our team left Lhasa, at 3250 metres, and went up to 6200 metres to acclimatize on March 29-30." "They were all fit and psychologically prepared. The team was the third generation of Mongolian mountaineers. However, this was their first attempt on Everest." The team has now started back down the mountain and are expected home in about two weeks.


expid: EVER06149
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Scott Woolums
sponsor: Project Himalaya Everest 2006
countries: Spain, Sweden, UK
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-28
smtdate: 2006-05-25
smttime: 0704
termdate: 2006-05-31
campsites: BC(28/04,5200m),ABC(01/05,6400m),C1(08/05,7100m),C2(23/05,7700m),C3(24/05,8300m),Smt(25/05)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  Summit team left C3 at 11:30 pm on 24 May. Conditions and weather were perfect. Great views from top. On their way up they saw the German climber, Thomas Weber, at 3rd Step who later died. He was already uncoordinated. On descent they saw him again on 2nd Step. Klinke offered Harry Kikstra, Weber's guide, some Dex to inject into Weber but he declined. By the time Woolums got to Weber at 10 pm he was lying in the snow facing downwards on the edge of the bottom of the 2nd Step. He turned him around to facilitate his breathing but it was too late. Woolums spent about 30 minutes with Weber. The rest of the team had carried on descending. Woolums left Weber at abut 10:30 am to descend to C3. He was running out of oxygen. The whole team rested at C3 for about 2 hours. When bad weather moved in they decided to descend to C2 at 2 pm. They got to C2 at 4 pm. Klinke and Strang descended to C1 on summit day.

  De Pineda got to C2 on 23 May but did not stay the night; he got a chest infection and returned to Kathmandu on 26 May.

  Kodas got to C1 and stayed there for 2 nights from 8 May to 10 May; he abandoned climb due to health problems; he had colitus and had lost a lot of blood.

  Moore got to C1 and stayed there for 2 nights from 8 May; he abandoned climb due to exhaustion and he could not take the challenge psychologically.

  Driggs never arrived in Tibet; he had to return home before the team left for Tibet due to family reasons.

  Pearsall got to C1 twice but she was very slow and had very low oxygen saturation.

  Rapoport got to C1 twice but did not like the climb and left expedition on 21 May.

  Searle got to 7500m on 8 May but gave up due to serious cough.

  Summit Sherpas: 
    Chhewang Palden, 6/1/74, Sotang-6, 1st 8000er
    Dawa Gyalzen, 15/2/67, Saframa, Lokhim-9, Everest X1, Lhotse X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Kami, April 1964, Kurima, Lokhim-4, Cho Oyu X2
    Mindu Chhiri, 29/8/71, Kurima, Lokhim-9, Solu, 1st 8000er
    Nimi Chhiri, 30/4/77, Gudel-4, 1st 8000er
    Pasang Gelu, 4/11/65, Sotang-6, 1st 8000er
    Pasang Gomba, 26/12/69, Lokhim-9, 1st 8000er
    Tarke, 1967, Rakshi Kharka, Kurima, Lokhim-4, Cho Oyu X5


expid: EVER06150
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Ecuador
leaders: Patricio Tisalema
sponsor: Seven Summits Everest Expedition 2006
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-09
smtdate: 2006-05-16
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2006-05-21
campsites: BC(09/04,5200m),ABC(16/04,6400m),C1(7010m),C2(7500m),C3(15/05,8100m),Smt(16/05)
achievment: 1st Ecuadorian to summit Everest without oxygen
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 15t April at 5950m
  ABC at usual camp site
  C1 at North Col (little lower)
  C2 at lower than usual campsite
  C3 at lower than usual campsite.

  Tisalema left his top camp (8100m) at midnight (NST) of May 15, summited at 13:00 hours on the 16th stayed on summit about 20 minutes, it was late and very tired. Tisalema descended to 8300m had rest for a while in one of the Sherpa's tents then descended to his top camp at 8100m, collected his things, then went down to C2 (7500m) where he reached at 21:30 hours - very exhausted. About 8 people were on the summit ahead of Tisalema. On his way up he met at Second Step descending climbers all with oxygen. He saw about 4 or 5 dead bodies between 8600m to 8700m. Tisalema said that he felt very hard to go up after 8750m without oxygen. When he reached at 8800m he was thinking to give up his attempt for summit as his head became heavy. The summit day weather was windy and there were cloud on the summit. He saw lots of prayer flags on the summit. About 50 meters below the summit there were lots of oxygen cylinders. 

  Tisalema returned to Kathmandu on May 22 and will leave on 23rd. He plans to attempt any of these mountains K2, Lhotse, Shisapagma or south side of Everest next year.


expid: EVER06151
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Lance Trumbull
sponsor: Everest Peace Project
countries: India, Israel, Jordan, New Zealand, S Africa
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-17
smtdate: 2006-05-18
smttime: 0651
termdate: 2006-05-23
campsites: BC(17/04,5300m),ABC(22/04,6400m),C2(16/05,7600m),C3(17/05,8300m),Smt(18/05)
accidents: Pneumonia by Trumbull; HACE by Selamolela; frostbite by Selamolela and Yaniv
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  Summit team left C3 between 11:15 pm and 12:45 pm on 17 and 18 May respectively. Weather was calm and clear. When Selamolela got to the top at 10:20 am, he was incoherent and collapsed on the summit due to exhaustion and mild HACE. McGuinness and Dawa Gyalzen were still on the summit and stayed with Selamolela on the summit. They motivated him to move down. When they got to the 3rd Step McGuinness checked Selamolela's oxygen and noticed that hose was twisted. He fixed it and Selamolela got better. Namgyal Sherpa was at C3 and climbed up to 8700m to meet them. He assisted him down to C3 where they arrived at 8 pm. The next day Selamolela still felt sick but better and managed to walk down to 7000m with McGuinness, Dawa Gyalzen and Namgyal. From there he was put on a stretcher and was carried down to ABC where they arrived at 9 pm. He used oxygen all the way to ABC. The next day (about 20 May), he was able to eat and he got better on 22 May. He got back to Kathmandu on 25 May and went to CIWEC clinic. He has frostbite on both feet but will be able to keep his toes. His fingers are also frostbitten and he might lose his fingertips of his right hand.

  All other summiteers descended to C2 on 18 May, where they arrived around 7 pm; Yifrah arrived at 1 pm. 

  Yifrah from Israel planted a joint Palestinian and Israeli flag on the summit.

  Bushnaq got to 7000m on 3 May, but turned back due to mild AMS.

  Patil got to 7000m on 3 May, but turned back due to sickness, nausea and persistent cough.

  Trumbull got to 7000m; he never intended to summit (he was the organizer); he also had slight pneumonia, which he treated with antibiotics.

  Yaniv also got frostbite on his big toes, but according to CIWEC he will keep them.

  Sherpa summiters
    Da Gelje, 10/1/69, Gudel-4, Solu, 1st 8000er
    Dayula, 21/4/72, Sotang-6, Solu, Everest 21/5/05
    Lhakpa, 26/11/72, Rakha-5, Khotang, 1st 8000er
    Namgyal, 5/10/77, Rakha-5, Khotang, Cho Oyu X4, Everest 4/6/05


expid: EVER06152
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Ecuador
leaders: Patricio Crausaz Sarzosa
sponsor: Ecuadorians without Limits to Everest
bcdate: 2006-04-08
smtdate: 2006-05-25
smttime: 0948
termdate: 2006-05-23
accidents: Ono stomach problem; Mesias liver problem
agency: Iceland Trekking (Sange)
campsites:
  BC(08/04),ABC(12/04,6400m),C1(24/04,7050m),C2(26/04,7700m),xxx(18/05,8100m) 2nd Summit bid: C1(20/05,7050m),C2(23/05,7700m),C3(24/05,8300m),Smt(18/05)

routememo:
  Pasang Dawa, 1980, Khumjung, no 8000ers, was added to this team in Tibet when he became available from anther expedition that had abandoned their climb, says Sange of Iceland trekking.


  Ecuadorian Everest (North Col) expedition, Spring 2006

  There were two summit bids by members of this expedition.

  On 25 May 2006, Ona and Mesias described the first bid:

  Since Ona had a stomach problem and never slept in C2, the first bid was made by the other three members, plus Aulestia's personal Sherpa, Pasang Dawa. They went up from ABC to C1 on 16 May, to C2 on 17th, and tried to go to the summit on the 18th. Aulestia had been very slow because she did not have enough mountaineering experience and was very tired, so she had turned back at 7900m and slept in their C2 at 7400m that night. Pasang Dawa had retreated with her.

  Mesias and Crausaz carried on towards the top but stopped at 8100m because Mesias developed liver problem, and back to C2 at 7700m for the night.

  The climb was now finished for all members except Crausaz: two were sick and one not strong enough. All except Crausaz left the mountain, while Crausaz stayed for another attempt.


  On 2 June, Crausaz described his activities after the first bid:

  Crausaz stayed at ABC after the others left. At ABC he met Jamie McGuinness, the owner of a trekking-climbing business called Project Himalaya, who told Crausaz he could use the tents of the Project Himalaya expedition led by Scott Woolums. Crausaz had his own food and ate it in ABC, C1 and C2, then shared the expedition's food higher up.

  Crausaz left ABC on 22 May for his summit bid, climbing about one hour behind the expedition, and stayed in their C1 at the North Col that night. On the 23rd he went to their C2 at 7700m for the night, and on the 24th to their C3 at 8300m.

  He left C3 at 0:30 hours (Nepal time) on the 25th. About 45 minutes out of C3, while he was fussing with its batteries, his headlamp slipped out of his hands and was lost in the dark. He spoke by walkie-talkie with McGuinness, who encouraged him to continue his ascent without artificial light; although there was only a sliver of a moon, it was clear night and when he reached the Second Step, the sun would be giving him good light. And that's was what happened. He reached the Second Step after dawn, at about 5:00 am.

  He continued his ascent alone about 1-1.5 hours behind the Project Himalaya team and was on the summit at 9:48 am. There was almost no wind, and he was above the clouds. He stayed half an hour on the top, then seeing storm clouds forming, he descended to the expedition's C2 at 7700m. He had intended to stop for the night in their C3, but McGuinness urged him to continue to C2 to sleep, and he did so. He got there at about 6:00 pm in strong wind and falling snow. Next day he was safe in ABC.

  Oxygen:

  Aulestia used it during the team's first summit push in C2 at 7400m to her hight point of 7900m to and in C3.

  Crausaz used it in C3 at 8300m to the top to C3 and sleeping in C2.


expid: EVER06153
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: John Bagnulo, Bill Yeo
sponsor: Independent team on Everest (on SummitClimb permit)
bcdate: 2006-04-05
smtdate: 2006-05-11
smttime: 0720
termdate: 2006-05-13
campsites: BC(05/04),ABC(15/04,6400m),C1(15/04,7000m),C2(08/05,7700m?),C3(10/05,8300m),Smt(11/05)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  C1 at 7000m North Col.

  Yeo thought he had signs of pulmonary edema so he went down from C2 while Bagnulo went to summit with Gheorghe Dijmarescu's team member David Watson.

  Bill developed a bad cough and turned at high camp on May 10th, not spending the night there. Dave Watson and I left for the summit at 11:00 pm on May 10th. I had two oxygen bottles with me that I had bought from Dan Mazur in Kathmandu. Dave and I reached the summit at approximately 7:30 am. We made it back to advanced basecamp by evening on May 11th.


  Email from John Bagnulo - 22 Jan 2007

  We arrived in ABC a few days ahead of Dan Mazur's group [whose permit he and Bill Yeo were on]. I was not the leader, Bill and I were simply partners on this climb.

  I am quite sure I first spent the night at Camp 1 on the 15th of April. Bill had a bad coughing attack and did not spend the night as he turned around on the glacier. Later, we spent the night there together and hiked up towards Camp 2 the next day, maybe 2/3rds of the way or so. This would have been around the 22nd of April. We only spent the night at Camp 2 on our summit push. Yes, we did start to use oxygen at Camp 2 on the summit push at the lowest flow rate. Stopped using oxygen at around Camp 2 on the descent. Arrived at ABC around 7:30 pm on summit day.

  We left base camp on the 13th of May; left Kathmandu on the 14th or 15th.


expid: EVER06155
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Christian Stangl
sponsor: Everest Dream Team
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-05-05
smtdate: 2006-05-25
smttime: 0942
termdate: 2006-05-29
campsites: BC(04/04,5300m),ABC(09/05,6500m),C1(11/05,7000m),C2(15/05,7880m),Smt(25/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at CBC
  ABC at usual campsite
  C1  at North Col
  C2  at usual campsite.

  Stangl left ABC (approx 6500m) at 17:00 hours on May 24, reached the summit at 09:42 hours on May 25, stayed on summit about three minutes and descended to ABC at 16:30 hours. Ecuadorian climber Patricio Crausaz was on the summit who took summit picture of Stangl. There were other two or three people on the summit. Stangl saw 3 or 4 oxygen cylinders (orange and blue colours) on the summit. Weather was good but cold and little windy in the afternoon. The summit was clear. While descending at about 8300m Stangl realized that his toe was swollen. On May 15 he used one of the tents at 7880m in which there was a sleeping bag, a mattress and some empty glas cylinders but no stove or pots. No idea about the owner of the tent. 

  Stangl returned to Kathmandu on May 29 and will leave on June 1.


expid: EVER06156
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Roberto Piantoni
sponsor: Everest North 2006
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-27
smtdate: 2006-05-26
smttime: 0850
termdate: 2006-05-29
campsites: BC(27/04,5200m),ABC(30/04,6400m),C1(07/05,7000m),C2(16/05,8000m),Smt(26/05)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  C2 on ledge about 1 hour below C3.

  Astori left C2 at midnight, Piantoni left at 2 am (Nepali time). The reason for Piantoni to leave later was that he climbed without oxygen and did not want to climb in the cold for too long. He caught up with Astori at about 8500m and they carried on together. They were on the summit on their own and stayed on the summit for 40 minutes. They descended to ABC where they arrived at 5 pm (Piantoni) and 9 pm (Astori). They had a perfect summit day, fantastic views. Piantoni had no problems climbing without oxygen. He never lost his coordination and the fact that he was quicker than Astori, who climbed with oxygen, shows that.


expid: EVER06157
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Gilles Sere Bouchet
sponsor: Everest Tibet North Side
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-10
smtdate: 2006-05-18
smttime: 1020
termdate: 2006-05-21
campsites: BC(10/04,5200m),ABC(22/04,6400m),C1(24/04,7100m),C2(15/04,7500m),C3(17/05,7900m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 21 at 5700m
  C3 at top camp lower than usual C3 site.

  Bouchet left his top camp (7900m) at mid-night of May 17, summited at 10:20 hours NST on May 18. Stayed on summit for 20 minutes and descended to top camp at 15:30 hours. On May 19 to ABC. Weather on summit day was very good, no wind, but big cloud over the summit. Bouchet met on summit 3 Polish coming up from south side. Also there were 3 people of Peace Project expedition from north side; their South African black member Selamolela was carried down by other members.

  Bouchet returned to Kathmandu on May 24 and will leave by the end of May.


expid: EVER06158
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Wilfried Studer
sponsor: Austrian Team on Everest
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-23
smtdate: 2006-05-15
termdate: 2006-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to bad weather and cold wind
campsites: BC(23/04,5200m),ABC(30/04,6400m),C1(22/05,7100m),C2(05/05,7600m),C3(15/05,7900m),xxx(15/05,7900m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Team was ready to leave C3 on 15 May at 10 am (Nepali time) for the summit push. However, they decided to abandon summit push as the weather had turned bad. They stayed the night at C3 and descended back to BC on 16 May. They left BC again on 21 May and ascended to 7500m on 23 May. However, they turned back to C1 as the wind was very cold, up to -60 degrees. They descended to BC on 24 May and left BC on 25 May. The reason they did not try again was a bad weather forecast for the following days.


expid: EVER06159
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Bernard Muller
sponsor: French Everest Expedition 2006
bcdate: 2006-04-12
smtdate: 2006-05-17
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2006-05-21
campsites: BC(12/04),C1(22/04,7100m),C2(01/05,7500m),C3(16/05,8300m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Summit party, all successful, left C3 at 10:00 pm (NST) on 16th, on top 10:00-10:45 am of 17th and in C3 for night (Martinez, Hedrich and Karsang); Invernizzi to C1; sirdar Tashi to ABC. All in ABC on 18th.

  Oxygen:
    Used by 3 summit members in and from C2 on summit push to top to C2 
      (Invernizzi to C1. 
    Sherpas in C3 to top, Karsang to and in C2 but Tashi to C3 only.

  Muller stayed in ABC during summit push; earlier went to C1.

  Summit Sherpas:
    Karsang, 29/5/63, Pare, Namche-6, no 8000ers
    Tashi, 3/9/78, Rolwaling VDC, Everest 22/5/03


expid: EVER06160
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Neill Elliot
sponsor: British Team on Everest
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-10
smtdate: 2006-05-17
smttime: 0640
termdate: 2006-05-24
campsites: BC(10/04,5200m),ABC(22/04,6400m),C1(03/05,7000m),C2(15/05,7600m),C3(16/05,8300m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  Corrigan, Elliott, Hassard, Hodge, Salter, Jangbu Sherpa, Lhakpa Sherpa, Dawa Sherpa and Lila Tamang left C3 at 10:30 pm of May 16. Five members and four Nepali climbers reached to summit between 06:40-07:10 of May 17. They stayed on summit about 45 minutes. Hassard, Hodge and Salter descended to C2, Corrigan to C1, Elliot to ABC, Dawa to C3, Lhakpa to C2, rest of Nepalese to ABC. The weather was perfect no wind, clear and sunny day; saw nice views of surrounding mountains. Ahead of them were two British people and behind them were many people. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on May 25 and leaving on 26th by different flights.


expid: EVER06161
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Freddy Journet
sponsor: Frenchman on Everest
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-10
smtdate: 2006-05-17
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2006-05-21
campsites: BC(10/04,5200m),ABC(17/04,6400m),C1(21/04,7000m),C2(05/05,7500m),C3(15/05,7900m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 16 April
  C1 at North Col
  C3 at lower than normal C3 site.

  Journet and Jangbu left camp at 7900m at 10:30 NST of 16 May. Summit at about 12:00 hours of 17 May, stayed on summit for 20 minutes, descended to 7900m. Next day to ABC. Weather was very good, no wind; Nepal side was cloudy for sometime. It was clear and saw view of South Col. Ahead of Journet were French Expedition with 8 Sherpas, there were about 10 people. 

  Journet returned to Kathmandu on 24 May and will leave on 1 June.

  Sherpa:
    Jangbu Sherpa, (2037/11/1), Kharikhola, Jubing-1, Solukhumbu


expid: EVER06163
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Dominic Faulkner
sponsor: Everest Max
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-10
smtdate: 2006-05-17
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2006-05-27
campsites: BC(10/04,5200m),ABC(17/04,6400m),C1(27/04,7000m),C2(15/05,7500m),C3(16/05,8000m),Smt(17-18,21/05)
achievment: 1st British couple (Sanderson) & 1st person to travel from lowest to highest point (Pauline)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  17 May summit team left C3 at 9 pm NST on 16 May. Weather was clear. After summiting they descended to ABC on 18 May.

  18 May summit team left  C3 at 9 pm NST on 17 May. Weather was clear. After summiting they descended to C1 and on 20 May to ABC.

  21 May summit team left C3 at 11:30 pm on 20 May. It was very windy and partly cloudy. They descended to C3, where they arrived at 2 pm. On 22 May they descended to C1 and on 23 May to ABC.

  Clarke got to C1 on 3 May and stayed for one night. He abandoned climb due to flu he could not get rid of.

  L'Herpiniere got to ABC on 17 April, but felt very altitude sick. He descended to BC on 18 April and returned to Kathmandu on 21 April.

  Nigel Lyle got to 7300m on 30 April. When he descended to ABC the next day, he developed a bad cough, which he never recovered from.

  Sarah Lyle got to C3 on 20 May; she stayed there for 2 nights, but abandoned the climb as she found lack of motivation. She got scared, especially after a few fatalities had happened.

  Zlattinger got to 7500m on 2 May; he found it mentally and physically too challenging and abandoned climb.

  Dominic Faulkner developed altitude sickness at BC on 13 April. He was evacuated to Shegar, where he stayed for 4 nights. He returned to BC on 17 April and felt fine. He recovered completely as he finally made it to the summit.

  Sherpas:
    Karma Gyalzen Sherpa, Surke, Chaurikharka-4, Khumbu, 26/09/71, 1st 8000er
    Tshering Tashi Sherpa, Khumjung-2, Khumbu, 07/12/85, Everest 2004


expid: EVER06164
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: W Ridge from N
nation: UK
leaders: David Bunting
sponsor: British Services Mt Everest West Ridge - 2006
countries: Canada, USA
bcdate: 2006-04-03
smtdate: 2006-05-21
termdate: 2006-05-31
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to avalanche risk
accidents: Nothing
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
campsites:
  BC(03/04,5500m),C1(09/04,5800m),C2(17/04,6400m),C3(30/04,7200m),C4(16/05,7600m),C5(20/05,8000m),xxx(21/05,8100m)

routememo:
  BC at East Rongbuk Glacier
  C2 at North Spur
  C3 at North Spur (just below West Ridge)
  C4 at West Ridge before steep rock section
  C5 at bottom of Hornbein Couloir
  High point just inside couloir.

  Summit push by 4 members and 2 Sherpas who came from C3 from on 20 May through C4 to C5 late of evening of 20th. Left C5 for top at 11:00 pm (NST) - 18 inches of windslab snow on top of hard snow underneath; gained vertical meters in 2-3 hours; windslab sliding underneath them so abandoned attempt and down to C4. Whole climb abandoned because at that altitude avalanche conditions not going to change and risk unacceptable, so quit 25 May when all in BC. 

  All 20 climbing members got to C4; very strong team.

  Oxygen: 
    All members in C3, in and from C4 to high points to and in C4. 
    Sherpas in C4 to high point to C4.

  Sherpas to high point: 
    Pasang Norbu, 21/12/74, Norbu, Walung VDC, Makalu, Kangch 20/5/00, Everest X2
    Nima Tenzi/Tenzing, 24/8/80, Beding, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1


expid: EVER06165
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
route2: N Col-NE Ridge (up); SE Ridge-S Col (down)
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: SummitClimb Everest Expedition 2006
countries: Argentina, Australia, Canada, New Zealand, UK
bcdate: 2006-04-05
smtdate: 2006-05-17
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2006-05-19
campsites: BC(05/04,6400m),ABC(12/04,6400m),C1(21/04,7000m),C2(16/05,7800m),C3(17/05,8000m),Smt(17,22/05)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  First summit party left C3 at 11:00 pm on 17 May (CST): Crampton, Garcia, Milana, Pacey, Tindale, plus Tibetans Deeching Narup and Norbu. At Second Step Milana developed serious cerebral edema, and Crampton, with Jangbu Sherpa, who came stayed in C3, brought him down to C3; Milana and Jangbu stayed in C3 while Crampton went on C2. Tindale turned around at 8400m because route too difficult for him. Garcia, Pacey and the two Tibetans reached the summit at 7:30 am on 18th May; the two members descended to C3, Tibetans to ABC same day.

  Second summit party: severe storm with strong wind and heavy snowfall, which kept Crampton pinned down to C2, prevented second summit party from leaving C3 on the night of the 18th to go to the top. They were Brash, Hewson, Mazur, Osborne, Statler, a Tibetan named Aden, and two Sherpas, Jangbu and Dawa. The members abandoned their summit plans.

  Dawa Sherpa, who had been Statler's Sherpa, launched his bid to traverse Everest alone at 9:00 pm. (NST) on 21 May, reached the summit at 8:40 am on the 22nd, and was down in Nepal side's base camp at 5:15 pm for an elapsed time of 20 hours, 15 minutes. He had hoped to do it in 18 hours. Nevertheless, he set a speed record for Everest traverses. He used two bottles of oxygen from 8300m on the north side to 8500m on the south side.

  Third summit party of Brash, Crampton, Mazur, Osborne and Jangbu left C3 at midnight (CST) of 25/26 May. Crampton turned back at 6:30 am on the 26th at the First Step (8500m) because his oxygen supply becoming exhausted and his hands were becoming cold. The other four continued up until at the "Mushroom Rock" at about 8550m where they found Lincoln Hall, Australian member of 7 Summits Club expedition led by Alexander Abramov, at 7:20 amm without the top of his down suit on his arms, his gloves and cap off, no oxygen equipment, ice axe and backpack: he was sitting up three feet from the edge of the Kangshung Face. He said to them: "I imagine you guys are suprised to see me here." Mazur: "Yeah, yes I am." Hall: "Can you please tell me how I got here?...You guys on this boat too?" They pulled him away from the edge, secured him with rope tied to his harness and an ice axe, gave him oxygen, food, water and put his hat and gloves back on him, but he kept taking them off and Mazur's party had to keep putting them back on. "He was like a three year old child," said Mazur. They radioed for Sherpas from his expedition to come and get up and get him; when the Sherpas arrived at 11:30 am, he was delirious. 

  Osborne said when they found Hall, "I'm not going to leave this guy here." Brash, the other client in the party, said "Oh God!" he was depressed at the thought of losing his chance for the summit in perfect weather, but he also stayed till the Sherpas came. Now it was too late for the three members and their Sherpa to go for the top, they thought a storm would probably blow up in the early afternoon, and their oxygen supply was running low. Now there could not be another summit bid because the team was running out of oxygen.

  Oxygen used by all members from C1 to their high points except Brash, Crampton, Garcia, Milana, Tindale and Wells, who used it in C2 and up; all used it down to C2 or when their supply ran out, except Crampton, whose supply had run out at 7550m but he didn't know it. Sherpas and Tibetans from C2 to their high points.

  Sherpas and Tibetans:
    Deeching Narup, 20, Pasum Zom village, now Lhasa
    Norbu, 1980, Latse
    Aden [Yunden?]
    Jangbu Sherpa, 24/5/67, Patle, Everest X2
    Dawa, 1970, Loding, Solu


expid: EVER06166
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Juan Antonio Huisa Garcia
sponsor: Andalucia Everest 2006
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-19
smtdate: 2006-05-07
termdate: 2006-05-11
termnote: Abandoned at 6850m due to equipment problems, altitude problems, and family problems at home
campsites: BC(19/04,5200m),ABC(23/04,6450m),C1(26/04,7050m),xxx(07/05,6850m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Team left ABC for C1 on 7 May at 10 am Nepali time. At 1:30 pm they turned back due to bad weather. When they arrived at ABC, they decided to abandon the expedition as both members had problems with their respective families (sick mother). Huisa Garcia could also feel the altitude and on top of it they were having problems with their equipment. The generator broke down on 2nd day which resulted in the cameraman and journalist (BC only) leaving early (24th April). 

  On April arrival in Kathmandu Huisa Garcia's barrel got lost in Cargo and was never found. All in all they were not happy with Thamserku Trekking. Team arrived on 11 May and will leave on 15 May.

  Sherpas above BC:
    Mingma Tshering, 25/3/81, Kharikhola, Everest X5   
    Pemba Nuru, 03/02/72, Pare, Lhotse 15/5/00, Everest (2003 and 2004)  

  Tshering Dorji Sherpa (17/4/85, no Everest Ascents) did not go above ABC due to altitude problems.

  Pemba Nuru ascended to C3 on 28 Apr and 10 May to deposit oxygen there.


expid: EVER06167
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Agusti Pallares
sponsor: Terres de l'Ebre Expedition to Everest
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-05-01
smtdate: 2006-05-17
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2006-05-21
campsites: BC(01/05,5200m),ABC(03/05,6400m),C1(08/05,7100m),C2(15/05,7900m),C3(16/05,8300m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Summit team left C3 at 10:30 pm on 16 May. The weather was clear and calm. There were about 7 other people on the summit. After summiting they descended to C1, where they arrived at 6 pm Nepali time. They descended to BC on 18 May.

  Escriva got to C2 on 15 May, but abandoned the climb due to pain in his right leg from a previous injury. 

  Pallares reached C2 on 15 May and stayed the night, and returned to BC on 16 May due to gastric problems. 

  Sancho stayed at BC the whole time; he had never really intended to climb.

  Pasang Dawa Sherpa reached 7900m, then abandoned climb due to back pain.

  Sherpas
    Lhakpa Tshering/Tsiri, 24/6/75, Khumjung, Everest X2, Annapurna I X1
    Pasang Dawa, Khumjung, 16/5/80, no 8000ers


expid: EVER06168
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Stanislava Ludikova
sponsor: A Czech on Everest (on Czech Fojtik permit)
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-26
termdate: 2006-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to health problems
campsites: BC(26/04,5400m),ABC(6200m),C1(7000m),xxx(?/7000m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Ludikova arrived at BC together with David Fojtik and Milos Palacky, whom she shared a permit with. According to Fojtik she took two days to reach the North Col (date not known). She started from ABC, stayed the night below the ice wall and advanced to C1 the next day. She stayed one night at C1 and descended to ABC the next day due to health problems.


expid: EVER06169
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Miroslav Palacky
sponsor: Czechs on Everest
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-26
smtdate: 2006-05-18
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2006-05-22
campsites: BC(26/04,5400m),ABC(30/04,6400m),C1(02/05,7000m),C2(16/05,7800m),C3(17/05,8350m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Fojtik left C3 at 22:00 hours NST on May 17, summited a 06:30 hours on May 18. Stayed on summit about 30 minutes, descended to ABC at about 14:00 hours. On May 20 to CBC. Weather was very good, no wind, little snowfall around 10:00 hours. Fojtik saw about 6 people on summit maybe from south side. Behind Fojtik there were some people from north side. Fojtik summited with overboots only; he did not use special boot. 

  Palacky climbed up to 7300m. He turned around to ABC due to tiredness. It was his third attempt. 

  The expedition returned to Kathmandu on May 23 and leaving on 26th.


expid: EVER06170
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Josef Kubicek
sponsor: Czech Everest Expedition 2006
approach: By helicopter to Kodari; Bartusek by air to Lhasa
bcdate: 2006-04-28
smtdate: 2006-05-21
termdate: 2006-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to bad weather and lack of time
campsites: BC(28/04),ABC(03/05,6370m),C1(12/05,7100m),xxx(21/05,7900m)
agency: Nepal Trans Himalayan Explorer
routememo:
  While climbing from C1 to C3, they were hit by "strong snowfall and wind." Visability only two meters and could not find fixed ropes above. Now abandoned climb as no more time to make another attempt.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Dorje, 2 June 1971, Lukla, no 8000ers


expid: EVER06172
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Robert Pulka
sponsor: Polish French Everest Expedition 2006
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-04
smtdate: 2006-05-18
termdate: 2006-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 8500m due to bad weather (snow and wind)
campsites: BC(09/04,5200m),ABC(16/04,6400m),C1(21/04,7100m),C2(17/05,8300m),xxx(18/05,8500m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Dlubacz, Granatowicz and Pulka left C3 at 10:00 hours (NST), reached at 8500m at about 13:00 hours. Weather became very windy and snowfall, then turned around to ABC where the team arrived at 21:00 hours.


expid: EVER06101
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge (up); SE Ridge-S Col (down)
nation: S Korea
leaders: Park Young-Seok
sponsor: 2006 Park-Trans Everest Expedition
countries: New Zealand
bcdate: 2006-04-07
smtdate: 2006-05-11
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2006-05-16
campsites: BC(07/10),ABC(13/04,6400m),C1(21/04,7100m),C2(09/05,7700m),C3(10/05,8300m),Smt(11/05)
achievment: 3rd N-S traverse
agency: NE-KO Treks
routememo:
  Park Trans-Everest Expedition (spring 2006) - 15 May 2206

  Summit party left C3 at 0:30 hours (NST) on 11 May for the top. They were: Hur Young-Man, Lee Hyeong-Mo, Oh Hee-Joon, Oh Young-Hoon, Park Young-Seok, Serap Jangbu, Thendu Dorje, Pasang Tharke, Kama Tshering and Lama Kancha Sherpas. At about 5:00 am. Lama Kancha turned back because of problems with him oxygen mask at the First Step; at about 11:00 am. Hur and Oh Young-Hoon turned back also at the First Step because they were climbing much too slowly. Lee Hyeong-Mo, Oh Hee-Joon, Park, Serap Jangbu, Thendu Dorje, Pasang Tharke and Kama Tshering went to the summit at 11:00 am.

  The summit party members (except for Park and Serap Jangbu) returned to C3 at 4:00-5:00 pm to sleep there that night. They reached ABC on the 13th, BC on the 15th, and were to leave for Zhangmu on the 16th to return to KTM on the 17th.

  Meanwhile Park and Serap Jangbu began their traverse down the SE Ridge at 12:30 hours on the 11th. They found that the route above 7300m had not yet been opened so they had to descend without any freshly-installed fixed ropes. They went down from summit to C3 on Lhotse's West Face roped together.

  The Hillary Step was "very difficult," said Serap Jangbu. Park got one crampon entangled in old rope and hung there for half an hour till he righted himself. They then descended on the left side of the Step (left side to them as they descended) on snow and rock. At the South Col they found deep snow, in places waist deep, elsewhere thigh-deep.

  They finally reached C3 at 7300m at 2:00 am on the 12th and slept there. Next night they slept in C2 in the Western Cwm because both men were slightly snowblind and very tired. On the 13th they went down to BC and on to Gorakshep to sleep there that night.

  Two members left expedition early: Choi left on 15 or 16 April because of a headache due to high altitude, and on 25 April Hur [Heo?] left for the same season. These headaches, plus Park's and Serap Jangbu's slight snowblindness, were the team's only health problems.

  This was the third north-south traverse of Everest. The first was in May 1998 by the massive Japanese-Chinese-Nepalese team. Second was made (without permits) by South Korean Heo Young-Ho and Ngati Sherpa in April 1993. Park and Serap Jangbu were on the permits of teams on north and south sides, and they were the only ones to have to descend from the summit without fixed ropes already in place from top to Col.

  Summit Sherpas:
    Serap Jangbu, 25/4/83, Pangboche, Everest X2
    Thendorje, aka Thendu Dorje, 22/4/83, Pangboche, Everest X2
    Pasang Tharke, 16/3/83, Khunde
    Kama Chhiring, 9/11/77, Walung village, Makalu-6

  Other Sherpas:
    Lama Kancha, 17/1/74, Khumjung, Everest X1


expid: EVER06174
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge (up); N Face (Great Couloir) (down)
nation: Sweden
leaders: Tomas Olsson
countries: Norway
bcdate: 2006-04-07
smtdate: 2006-05-16
smttime: 0945
termdate: 2006-05-23
campsites: BC(07/04),ABC(26/04,6450m),C1(05/01,7100m),C2(15/04,7900m),Smt(16/05)
accidents: Olsson's fatal fall
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C2 at deposit camp only.

  Summit push from ABC 14 May by Olsson and Lama Babu to C1. 15th to 7900m while Granheim and Tshering Pande Bhote left ABC 15th only because Granheim had been having having case of diaharrea and caught up with Olsson and Lama Babu at 7900m, where rested for hours in 2 tent not equipped with sleeping bags. All climbers left 7900m at 10:00 pm Chinese time and to top at 12:00 hours (09:45 NST) and stayed an hour (weather good so no pressure to hurry and it takes time to put on skis). In descent, Olsson was behind Granheim, and he waited for Olsson to join him at about 8400m or more where rock so narrow in couloir that forced skier's weight on back of skis. Olsson's was very lightweight left ski cracked (ski 1.80m long), but he didn't take off skis but went on down; an anchor pulled out and he fell down from 8500m in Great Couloir and out of sight. Granheim soon took of skis and went eventually down to North Col to sleep that night with the 2 Sherpas who had descended normal route. 17th to ABC and 18th to BC.

  Body found on 23 May by 2 Sherpas and helicoptered to KTM and leave KTM 26 May to Sweden.

  Granheim skied 8850m
                 8800m
                 8750m
                 8500m
                 8480m
                 7100m spend night
             to  6500m

  Oxygen: 
    Sherpas from C2 to top and down to C2,
    Granheim from 7500m to top to 8500m, where his mask's attachment broke.
    Olsson from 7900m to top until his fall.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Lama Babu Sherpa, 23/9/68, Cheremy, Everest X2
    Tshering Pande Bhote, 20/3/78, Farang, Sankhuwasabha, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2


expid: EVER06175
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Hungary
leaders: David Klein
sponsor: Independent climber
bcdate: 2006-04-10
smtdate: 2006-05-16
termdate: 2006-05-18
termnote: Abandoned at 8450m due to strong winds and snow-covered slabs
campsites: BC(10/04,5150m),ABC(16/04,6450m),C1(03/05,7000m),C2(15/05,7900m),xxx(16/05,8450m)
agency: World Records Expeditions
routememo:
  Bad weather at beginning sent him to Tingri with Ogwyn, Klein made camp at higher than almost all other teams camps because of crowding below, so no space, Made summit bid from C2 after having descended to ABC on 12th to rest. Left ABC 14th to C1, 15th to C2 and at 5:00 pm that night (15th) left C2 for summit bid, turned back about 8450m 16 May at 7:00 am in very strong wind, fresh snow and stone slabs covered by snow but not good for crampons and very very cold, so down to Indian tent at 8300m, At 10:00 am thought to go up again but rather late so finally decided to descend instead, met Owgwn at 7500m and both to ABC. Climb finished now.


expid: EVER06176
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Luis Carlos Garranzo
sponsor: Spaniard on Everest
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-18
smtdate: 2006-05-18
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2006-05-23
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (7 April)
campsites: BC(18/04,5200m),ABC(25/04,6440m),C1(03/05,7030m),C2(16/05,7500m),C3(17/05,8300m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Garranzo and Pemba Nuru left C3 at 23:00 hours NST on 17th, reached to summit at 07:00 hours of 18th, stayed at summit about 20 minutes, descended to C3 at about 13:00 hours. Rested there for few hours then to C2 (7900m) between 19:00-20:00 horus. Slept at 7900m. Next day to ABC. Very tired. Weather was very good while ascending. On descending there was very strong wind. Garranzo saw 3-4 people coming from south side; there were 10-12 people on the summit while he was there. Garranzo while descending met Diego Estebanez coming up. 

  Garranzo returned to Kathmandu on May 24 and trying to leave on 27th.


expid: EVER06177
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Sweden
leaders: Olof Sundstrom
sponsor: Swedish Expedition to Cho Oyu (on SummitClimb permit)
bcdate: 2006-04-05
smtdate: 2006-05-16
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2006-05-17
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (22 March)
campsites: BC(05/04,5200m),ABC(13/04,6400m),C1(26/04,7000m),C2(02/05,7700m),C3(15/05,8300m),Smt(16/03)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  Swedish Everest (North Col) team (Sundstrom & Letzter) - Spring 2006

  Information from Olof Sundstrom in his email letters dated 10, 12 & 17  July, 2006:

  Sundstrom, Letzter and Lobsang (Tibetan) summited together on 16 May, and the Swedes descended to C1 the same day. Like Hans Kammerlander in the spring of 1996, Sundstrom and Letzter skied their descent, they took off their skis at sections of bare rock. What percentage of this descent was made on skis? "Hmm, a bit higher lengthwise than heightwise (the parts we climbed were logically very steep) but I would estimate about 90 percent."

  "I and Mr Letzter skied from the summit to ABC, although we had to take the skis off as previously explained. We pretty much followed the same route we climbed up the North Ridge, which is the same route Mr. Kammerlander climbed (and skied)," but Sundstrom does not know precisely the line taken by Kammerlander.

  On the 17th "we heard that a countryman of ours, Mr. Tomas Olsson (on another team making a ski descent), had fallen from about 8500m and was most likely dead. Martin Letzter therefore went straight to Chinese base camp (5400m) to help arranging a search party and I followed the next day after having arranged with our gear in ABC (6400m). We searched for Mr. Olsson until the 21st when his body could be recovered from 6700m. The body was sopped by Mr. Tsering Sherpa (Tshering Pande Bhote) Martin (Letzer), myself and Mr. Schenholm (Tomas's photographer) on May 21st. We (Sundstrom's party) left Chinese base camp on May 23rd.

  Health problem: "Mr Lopshong (Lobsang) got frostbite on his fingers during the summit bid and as a result of this hit his head on the way down due to a fall around 8000m. He had to stitch his head in ABC and was later treated for frostbite in Lhasa. He is recovering fully, except from two joints on a finger of his left hand that had to be amputated."
    
  Oxygen: Sundstrom and Letzter from about 7700m to the summit and back to about 7700m. Lobsang from 8300m to the summit and down probably all the way back to 7000m although he is not sure about this because "we split high on the mountain due to his frostbite and he descended before us."

  Lobsang/Lopshong/Lorchun/Luo Qong/etc., Tibetan, 27/10/84 in Mamu, now in Lhasa as student at mountaineering school


expid: EVER06178
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Jose Gregorio Diego Estebanez
sponsor: Coulibrel to Everest
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-10
smtdate: 2006-05-18
smttime: 0740
termdate: 2006-06-23
campsites: BC(10/04,5200m),C1(17/04,6400m),C1(28/04,7000m),C2(30/04,7500m),C3(17/05,8300m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Diego Estebanez left C3 at 11:55 hours (NST) on 17th, reached summit at 07:40 hours on 18th, stayed at summit about 45 minutes, descended to C3 about 13:00 hours. Weather was very good, no wind,sunny. But when Diego Estebanez reach C3 it became windy and cloudy. Next day to ABC. Before Diego Estebanez there were about 8-12 people on the summit and 2 Spanish climbers. Behind him were about 4-5 people coming up. 

  Diego Estebanez returned to Kathmandu on May 24 and leaves on 26th.


expid: EVER06179
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Josu Feijoo-Gayoso
sponsor: Spanish team on Everest
approach: By helicopter to Tatopani->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-16
smtdate: 2006-05-18
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2006-05-20
campsites: BC(16/04,5000m),ABC(24/04,6400m),C1(01/05,7000m),C2(05/05,7700m),C3(17/05,8300m),Smt(18/05)
achievment: Feijoo-Gayoso first diabetic type to summit Everest; Martin-Sanz first commercial pilot to summit
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Martin-Sanz left C3 at 0010 (NST) of May 18, summited at 08:00 hours, stayed on summit an hour. Feijoo-Gayoso left C3 at 00:45 hours, summited at 08:15, stayed on summit 45 minutes. Members and Sherpas descended to C2 at about 17:00 hours. Next day to CBC 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on May 24 and is leaving on 26th. 

  Sherpa summiters:
    Muktu Lhakpa Sherpa (21-08-1972) Makalu-5, Sankhuwasabha, Everest 23/5/96.
    Pasang Temba Sherpa (20-01-1983)
    Lhakpa Nurbu Sherpa (14-02-1983)

  All three Sherpas from same place.


expid: EVER06180
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Joan Cardona
sponsor: Expedicion Pirineude Girona
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-29
smtdate: 2006-05-17
smttime: 0615
termdate: 2006-05-29
campsites: BC(29/04,5200m),ABC(01/05,6300m),C1(07/05,7000m),C2(16/05,7900m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Cardona, Servosa Roca, Kami Rita and Ang Phurba left C2 at 9:30 pm (NST) on 16 May. When they arrived at C3 midnight. Servosa Roca abandoned climb as he had dislocated his right shoulder the previous night. He has a long history of problems with his shoulder. He just turned around in the tent to get something and his shoulder was dislocated. When he got to C3 it was too painful, so he descended to C1. Summit team descended to ABC after summit. They picked up Servosa Roca in C1 where they arrived at 6 pm (NST).

  Fuentes and Lluis Julia got to C2 on 16 May at 7500m; they decided to turn back as they thought they were too slow. They got to C2 at 5 pm (NST) and descended to C1, where they arrived at 7 pm.

  The team did not have a C3 as they wanted to do it more quickly. Fuentes thinks he would have had a better chance had they had a C3.

  Canigueral got to C1 on 7 May. He stayed there one night but descended to ABC. He did not carry on climbing due to lack of motivation.

  Julia Bonmati reached C3 [site at 8300m] on 20 May. The group had planned another summit attempt, but there was a misunderstanding between him and Kami Rita. They were supposed to climb together after Kami Rita had come down from 7900m. However, they missed each other and Julia Bonmati arrived at C3 on his own without tent and food. He stayed the night in a tent of Ang Phurbu's friend. Next day he descended to ABC.

  Sherpas:
    Kami Rita Sherpa, 25/8/60, Thami, Everest X4
    Ang Phurba Sherpa, 26/8/1967, Chaplung, Solu, Cho Oyu X4


expid: EVER06181
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Josette Valloton
sponsor: Independent climber on Everest
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-09
smtdate: 2006-05-06
termdate: 2006-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to disappearance of material in C2
campsites: BC(09/04,5200m),ABC(16/04,6400m),C1(04/05,7100m),C2(06/05,7700m),xxx(06/05,7700m)
agency: World Records Expeditions
routememo:
  Valloton and Jangbu Lama ascended to C2 on 6 May for first time. Valloton wanted to try for the summit but there was not enough material. Valloton and Jangbu Lama went back to C2 on 16 May to try for the summit but it was too windy and too cold. They descended to ABC on 17 May.

  On 25 May she climbed back from ABC to C2. She took about 7 hours. She was on her own. When she arrived at C2 on 25 May at 3 pm she found that her sleeping bag and mattress were gone. As it was impossible to sleep there, she packed up her things and descended to ABC, where she arrived at 6:30 pm (Nepali time). She went straight to Russell Brice's tents as she thought it could have been a mistake on their behalf. Russell's Sherpas were the only Sherpa group she met that day. The previous day Dan Mazur checked her things in her tent as she asked him to do it as she wanted to make sure everything is still there. Dan Mazur radioed to her that all her things were in the tent. But when she got thre on 25 May, sleeping bag and mattress were gone. On her arrival at ABC she talked to Russell's sirdar, Phurba Sherpa, and asked him whether they accidently took her things. He went to find out and when Valloton returned to her tent at ABC all her things had been returned. The next day Phurba Sherpa talked to Valloton and said that one of his Sherpa's had made a mistake and took her things down as he thought it was somebody else's, who had already left the mountain.


expid: EVER06182
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Jose Andres (Pepe) Blanco Sanchez
sponsor: Dream of a Disabled Man to Everest
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-11
smtdate: 2006-04-29
termdate: 2006-05-02
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to cold feet, got very cold
campsites: BC(11/04,5400m),ABC(13/04,6400m),C1(29/04,7100m),xxx(29/04,7100m)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Blanco Sanchez and Sherpa spent night in C1. During the night Blanco Sanchez's feet got very cold; he thinks probably to lack of proper circulation of blood. Descended to ABC on 30th and to CBC on May 1. Returned to Kathmandu on May 2 and leaving Nepal on May 4.

  Sherpa was Lhakpa Nuru, 22/11/80, Thami, who stayed on Everest and summited with Turkish expedition on 15 May and 24 May.


expid: EVER06183
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Juan Jose Buendia
sponsor: First Expedition of Castegoa la Mancha
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-09
smtdate: 2006-05-17
smttime: 0545
termdate: 2006-05-21
campsites: BC(09/04,5105),ABC(16/04,63340m),C1(30/04,7000m),C2(06/05,7580m),C3(16/05,8300m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  On May 16 Buendia, Cardo, Checa, Kami Sherpa, Mingma Pemba and Temba Sherpa left C3 at 22:30 hours (NST). Buendia, Cardo and Kami reached summit at 05:45 hours on May 17, stayed about an hour and descended to ABC where they reached at about 19:30 hours. Checa, Mingma and Temba reached summit at 08:30 hours, stayed on summit about 45 minutes, descended to C2 at 16:30 hours. Sherpas to C1 weather was very good. Sunny, no wind, no snow. Ahead of this team there were 4-5 people on the summit, behind were 3 Spanish/Catalan. 

  Fuentes to 7350m on May 6, exhausted, turned around to C1. 
  Garcia climbed up to 7150m - not acclimatized, went down to C1. 
  Jimenez spent a night at C2 - very tired, went down to C1. 
  Noves went up to 6800m on May 1; breathing difficulty, turned around to ABC. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on May 24 and will leave on June 2.

  Sherpas:
    Kami Sherpa, Makalu-5, Sankhuwasabha, brother of Temba, Everest 29/5/05
    Mingma Pemba Sherpa, (19/1/1980), Yaplu-9, Sankhuwasabha, 1st 8000er
    Temba Sherpa, (24/11/1972), Makalu-5, Sankhuwasabha, 1st 8000er, brother of Kami


expid: EVER06184
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Israel
leaders: Gdaliahu Shtirmer
sponsor: An Israeli on Everest
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-12
smtdate: 2006-05-17
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2006-05-25
campsites: BC(12/04,5200m),ABC(17/04,6400m),C1(10/05,7100m),C2(16/05,7900m),C3(16/05,8300m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Nomad Expeditions
routememo:
  Team left C3 at 11 pm on 16 May. Weather was clear and not windy. When they got to the summit it was crowded. They stayed on the summit for about 30 minutes, then descended to C2 where they arrived at 4 pm. They descended to ABC on 18 May. He saw two dead bodies from previous years on summit ridge.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa, 25/03/1964, Chitre, Sotang-6
      Everest summits: 1995 - North, 1996 - South, 2003 - South Japan, 2004 - South
    Mingma Nuru Sherpa, Thame, Namche-7, 20/12/1975, Everest North 2005 (Brice)


expid: EVER06185
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Turkey
leaders: Serhan Pocan
sponsor: Everest Turkish Expedition
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-06
smtdate: 2006-05-15
smttime: 0700
campsites: BC(06/04,5200m),ABC(16/04,6400m),C1(22/04,7100m),C2(13/04,7800m),C3(14/05,8300m),Smt(15,24/05)
achievment: Mrs Mavis became first Turkish woman to summit Everest
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Buyukatalay, Girgin, Mavis, Mrs Mavis, Pocan, Mrs Ozoglu Pocan, Ulkenli with six Sherpas left C3 at 10:30 pm of 14th. Mavis and Pocan without oxygen up to 8500m at 8600m (Second Step). Ozoglu Pocan collapsed, Mavis and Pocan with two Sherpas turned around to bring down Ozoglu Pocan. Sherpas from other expedition also helped the Turkish team including Sherpa of Filipino Abenojar. Ozoglu Pocan was taken down to ABC. Four members and four Sherpas continued and reached summit, Mrs Mavis and Lhakpa Nuru at 07:00 hours of 15th, followed by Buyukatalay at 07:45 hours, Ulkenli at 08:00 hours and Girgin and Sherpas at 08:30 hours. The members and Sherpas stayed on summit between 15 minutes to 45 minutes. Descended to C3 where they reached between 10:30 hours to 12:00 noon. After resting at C3, Buyukatalay and Mrs Mavis went down to ABC, Ulkenli to C1 and Girgin stayed at C3. The weather was perfect. Before this team two people were already there on the summit. Behind them was a big group of Russell Brice coming up for summit. 

  May 24 Chihan, Mavis, Ozmine, Pocan, Mrs Ozoglu Pocan, Yilmaz, Lhakpa, Phurba Temba Lama, Lhakpa Tshering and Nima Nuru Sherpa left C3 at 09:30 pm of 23rd, reached summit at 5:45 am of 24th, stayed about an hour on the summit. About 15 people came up to summit from south side. There were not any other summiters from north side on that day. Members and Sherpas descended to C3 at about 12 noon, rested for a while at C3, then down to ABC where they reached between 6-7 pm.

  Note: Oxygen used: summit day

  Buyukatalay, Girgin, Mrs Mavis, Ulkenli from 7900m to summit and to 7000m. They used for sleeping as well. Rest of the members from 7000m to summit and to 7000m, sleeping as well. Sherpas from 7000m and 8300m to summit and back to 8300m.

  Sherpas summited on May 15.
    Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa, (22/9/80), Namche-7, Thami
    Kami (Kame in the citizenship), 26 years old at the
     time of issuing citizenship certificate. Kerung-4, Everest X5, Lhotse
    Dorje Khatri, (19/12/68), Lelep-9, Taplejung, 1st 8000er
    Nima Nuru Sherpa, Namche VDC 

  Summited on May 24
    Lhakpa Nuru (same person No. 1), double summited May 15 and 24th from BC
    Lhakpa Tshering Sherpa, (28/6/77), Namche-9, Yilajung, 1st 8000er
    Sonam Bhote, (13/12/81), Lelep-9, Taplejung, (summited Ama Dablam in 2005)
    Phurba Temba Sherpa (Lama), 1968-69. Namche-1, Khumbu, Everest in 2004 and 2005
    Lhakpa Sherpa, (11/10/78), Namche-1, Khumbu, Everest in 2004 and 2005
    Nima Nuru Sherpa, (6/11/81), (same person No. 1), dbl-summited May 15 and 24th from BC

  Non-Summiters:
    Dawa Sherpa, Lelep-8, Taplejung
       Dawa reached up to Second Step and had to turn around rescuing the collapsed 
       member of the expedition from above the Second Step.
    Dawa Sherpa, 1971-72, Tapting-9. Solu 
       Climbed up to 8300m had to give up due to stomach problem.


expid: EVER06186
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Harbhajan Singh
sponsor: Indian Mt. Everest Expedition 2006
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-05
smtdate: 2006-05-14
smttime: 0945
termdate: 2006-05-25
campsites: BC(05/04,5200m),ABC(19/04,6400m),C1(25/04,7100m),C3(13/05,8300m),Smt(14,17/05)
accidents: Kishan slipped at 8400m and fell down; Anand cerebral edema
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  On 14 May at 2:15 pm (NST) Kishan, who was last in the descending party, slipped - supposedly whilst unclipping from the rope at an anchor. The team assumes he fell down the cliff as his body could not be found. When members noticed that he was gone, two members went back up to the 1st step to look for him but he could not find him. Harbhajan Sing declared him missing at 6 pm Nepali time. Two Sherpas went back to 1st step to locate the body but he was never found. There are rumours that he committed suicide. 

  14 May summit team left C3 10:55 pm on 13 May. It was cloudy and snowing but when they reached 2nd Step the weather cleared good views from the top. They spent about 30 minutes on the summit and descended to C3, where they arrived between 1:30 pm and 5:30 pm Nepali time.

  17 May summit team left at 10:20 pm on 16 May. The weather was clear and calm. Good views from the summit. The summit team descended to C1, where they arrived at 6 pm Nepali time.

  Anand got as far as C1 on 25 April. He got cerebral edema and became unconscious. Dr. Terry from Russell Brice's expedition gave him two injections. He was then carried down to ABC, where he came to again. The 28 May he was brought to Kathmandu.

  Angdush got to 7900m on 13 May but turned back due to stomach problem.

  Bhutia got to 7900m on 16 May but turned back due to exhaustion.

  Harbhajan Singh got to C1 on 28 April but he abandoned the climb due to the accident of Kishan. He needed to morally support the team.

  Timungapi got to 7900m on 13 May but turned back due to health problems.

  Namgyal [down] from 7900m (C2) on 15 May because of abdominal pain.

  Other climbers have told me that they heard Kishan jumped off the cliff. When I talked to Singh about his expedition I had not heard the rumour, so I did not ask him.

  Khamba Singh went to 7600m but not feeling well.


expid: EVER06187
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Boris Korshunov
sponsor: Team Korshunov Everest 2006
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-17
smtdate: 2006-05-23
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2006-05-26
campsites: BC(17/04,5200m),ABC(22/04,6400m),C1(23/04,7000m),C2(10/05,7700m),C3(12/05,8300m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
routememo:
  23 May Totmyanin started with Tsialpuk (Belarus) from C3 at 04:00 CST, summitted at 12:15 (10:00 NST), stayed for 1 hour 15 minutes. Good weather came down to C3 at 16:15 stayed for 30 minutes and came down to C2 at 19:00. No other climbers summit that day.

  Korshunov reached high point at 8300m (C3) together with Bolotov and Surmonin on 12 May. Didn't stay overnight due to bad weather conditions. 

  Bolotov and Surmonin made 2nd attempt on 21 May reached only 7700m due to health condition of Surmonin who didn't feel well and asked Bolotov to help him descend to BC same day.


expid: EVER06188
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Belarus
leaders: Vladimir Telpuk
sponsor: Belarussian Everest Expedition 2006
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-19
smtdate: 2006-05-21
smttime: 0645
termdate: 2006-05-26
campsites: BC(19/04,5200m),ABC(24/04,6400m),C1(29/04,7000m),C2(04/05,7700m),C3(20/05,8300m),Smt(21,23/05)
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
routememo:
  21 May Lutov and Kahan started from C3 at 2:00 am (CST), summitted at 9:00 am (6:45 am NST), stayed for 15 minutes together with Abramov's members 7 pax and 3 pax from Nepal side. Came down to C3 at 13:30. Used oxygen from 8000m up to the summit and down to 8000m.

  23 May Telpuk started with Totmyanin (Russian) from C3 at 04:00 CST, summitted at 12:15 (10:00 NST), stayed for 1 hour 15 minutes. Good weather came down to C3 at 16:15 stayed for 30 minutes and came down to C2 at 19:00. No other climbers summit that day.

  Melnikov reached 7700m on 4 May, went to BC on 5 May due to health problem (pneumonia) and was taken to hospital in Kathmandu and stayed 10 days.


expid: EVER06189
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Alex Abramov
sponsor: Seven Summits Club Everest 2006
countries: Australia, Denmark, Germany, Netherlands, Norway, S Africa, UK, Ukraine, USA
bcdate: 2006-03-29
smtdate: 2006-05-15
smttime: 0915
termdate: 2006-06-01
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  SherpasBC(29/03),MbrsBC(18/04),ABC(24/04,6400m),C1(07/05,7000m),C2(13/05,7800m),C3(14/05,8300m),Smt(15,21,25/05)

routememo:
  1st summit party of Lande and Nima Ongdi left C4 at 3:00 15th, on top at 11:30 am CST (9:15 am NST) and down to 8300m.

  2nd summit party (Gariano, Hanna, Kofanov, Olsen, Ryzhenko, Stern, Svergun, and Wheatley) left C4 at midnight 20/21 May and on top 7:30 am CST (5:15 NST) (4 Sherpas) and 7:30-10:00 am (5:15-7:45 NST) (members) and down to C2 to sleep.

  3rd party Hall and 3 Sherpas left C3 at 12:00-1:00 am 25 May, on top at 9:00 am CST (06:45 NST).

  Non-summiting members:

  Abramov to 7500m "to help with organization."

  Bousselaire developed cerebral edema at ABC on 25 May and left expedition.

  Brevik to C2 (7800m) on 19 May with Kragset, heard of death in Great Couloir of Tomas Olsson, Swedish teammate of a Norwegian, and left expedition.

  Cherny to C1, had bad cough, left expedition 14 May to help Pushkarev go home.

  Dillon to 7300m on 12 May as photographer assigned to very young Australian, Christopher Harris, and turned back with Harris.

  Christopher Harris hoped to be youngest Everest summiter, but when he had episodes of extremely low blood pressure at his high point of 7300m twice, he abandoned climb.

  Richard Harris to North Col only; on 7th May developed bad cough, down to ABC, left expedition with his son, Christopher.

  Kikstra to 8800m on 25 May [accompanying Thomas Weber].

  Korobeshko to 7000m on 12 May to acclimatize and left after Plyushkin's death.

  Kragset to 7800m with Brevik on 19 May, heard of Olsson's death and left.

  Lien to 7800m, then down with Brevik and Kragset.

  Morrow to 6500m on 7th May, then no more strength to go higher.

  Muhl to 8700m (Second Step) with 21st May summit pary, his oxygen mask broke, and turned back. 

  Orkelbog base camp only; after he had been there for three days, his pregnant wife asked him to come home.

  Plyushkin to 8750m with 21st May summit party, was moving very slowly, turned back alone to C2, slept there one night, next day went down 10-15 meters from camp, could not breathe, was given injection, died of cerebral edema.

  Pushkarev had a stroke at North Col and left expedition 14 May, escorted home by Cherny.

  Rozhkov to First Step, with 21st May summit party, very slow, oxygen supply finished but didn't know it, down to C1 that day.

  Tyler to ABC only, had back pain and left expedition 24 April.

  Weber to 8800m with 25th May summit party, lost his vision at very high altitude (had some kind of special eye problem) at ladder on Second Step, collapsed from a stroke and died.

  Oxygen used by all members in summit parties from C1 to top to C1 or ABC. All Sherpas in summit parties in C2 to their high points to and in C2.

  Sherpa summiters:

  17 May:
    Nima Ongdi, 19/2/79, Makalu vdc, first 8000er?

  21 May:
    Mingma Dorje, 30/8/80, Makalu vdc, 1st 8000er?
    Mingma Gelu, 5/2/79, Balakharka, Tashigaon, Makalu, Everest X3
    Nima, 14/2/77, Makalu vdc, 1st 8000er?
    Pasang Gyalzen, 30/7/81, Makalu vdc, 1st 8000er?
    Pasang (aka Pasang Temba), 20/2/83, Tashigaon, Sedua, Makalu, Everest X1
    Rinjen, 3/2/73, Tashigaon, Makalu, Everest X2

  25 May:
    Dawa Tenjen, 21/12/74, Makalu vdc, 1st 8000er?
    Dorje, 1/6/60, Makalu vdc, 1st 8000er
    Jangbu, 26/8/85, Makalu vdc, 1st 8000er
    Lackha Sange, 21/6/64, Balakharka-Tashigaon, Makalu, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Pemba Nurbu, 28/3/80, Makalu vdc, 1st 8000er?
    Pemba Rinjin, 1/1/65, Tashigaon, Makalu, Everest X1
    Phurba Kusang, 20/5/82, Makalu vdc, 1st 8000er


  Lincoln Hall's collapse:

  Mike Dillon said on 29 May 2006: Hall reached summit at 9:00 am (Chinese time) on 25 May and then had difficulty descending, but resisted help from the Sherpas with him who were trying to get him down. By 7:20 pm he was only halfway to down the Second Step, which normally takes one hour to descend. Now the four Sherpas were exhausted by their efforts, and they reported to the base camp manager that he had been hallucinating, had fallen asleep at one time in this period, and finally was not moving. At 7:20 pm, the base camp manager told others (apparently including an Internet website) that Hall was dead. However, at 7:00 am on the 26th, Dan Mazur, another teams' leader, found him alive, gave him tea and reported to Abramov he was alive.

  Dan Mazur said on 9 June 2006: At the "Mushroom Rock" at about 8550m he, two clients and Jangbu found Lincoln Hall, at 7:20 am (NST). Without the top of his down suit on his arms and shoulders, his gloves and cap off, no oxygen equipment, ice axe or backpack, he was sitting up three feet from the edge of the Kangshung Face. He said to them, "I imagine you guys are surprised to see me here." Mazur, "Yeah, yes I am." Hall, "Can you please tell me how I got here? ... You guys on this boat too?" They pulled him away from the edge, secured him with rope tied to his harness and an ice axe, gave him oxygen, food and water and put his hat and gloves back on him -- but he kept taking them off and Mazur's party had to keep putting them back on -- "he was like a three-old-year child," said Mazur. They radioed for Sherpas from his expedition to come up and get him; when Sherpas arrived at 11:30 am, he was delirious. Now Mazur's party knew it was too late for them to go for the top, they expected a storm to blow up, and their oxygen supply was running low; they went down to ABC.

  Russell Brice in a memo "Reflections on Everest 2006" dated 9 June 2006, wrote: "It was heart-wrenching to hear Lincoln on the radio, and also to hear the conversations of the Sherpas who were helping him down the mountain. They also had to leave Lincoln for dead [in addition to other climbers who had had to leave the British independent, David Sharp], but somehow in his unconscious state he still managed to move along the ridge where he was found by members from another [Mazur's] team. Alex from 7 Summits tells me that even with this help, it still took another 15 Sherpas and 50 cylinders of oxygen to get Lincoln down to BC."


  Where am I asks noted Australian climber, by Elizabeth Hawley

  "Can you please tell me where I am?" asked the confused Australian mountaineer Lincoln Hall when climbers from another expedition on their way to the summit of Mount Everest found him sitting very close to the edge of a 2000m drop to the foot of the mountain's precipitous east face.
     "Are you guys on this boat too?" he asked American Dan Mazur, two of Mazur's team members, Briton Myles Osborne, Canadian Andrew Brash, and Sherpa Jangbu. He was "delirous," Mazur told Reuters here Friday.
     "He was like a three year old," said Mazur. When Mazur's party found Hall on May 26, he had no gloves or hat on and his down jacket had been pulled off his shoulders and arms. He had no bottled oxygen supply.
     They put his clothing back on him, but he kept taking them off like a small child, and they repeatedly had to get them back on him.
     None of his gear was near Hall, whom they had found at the altitude of 8550m on the giant 8850m mountain.
     Mazur's party moved Hall away from the precipice and tied him securely to the fixed rope and an ice axe. They gave him food, water and oxygen, and Mazur radioed to Hall's base camp that they had found Hall alive and his team should immediately send up Sherpas to get him down the mountain.
     Hall had been to Everest summit the day before, but had had great difficulty descending, according one of his teammates who asked not to be identified. Furthermore he resisted help from the four Sherpas who were trying to assist him.
     He was extremely slow going down and by 7:20 pm (Chinese time) on May 25, when they had reached 8700m, the Sherpas were exhausted. Hall was now hallucinating, then not moving.
     The Sherpas reported to base camp that he was dead, and his team's base camp manager put out the news.
     He was not dead, but he had become badly frostbitten in his fingers and one big toe, and he was extremely confused.
     Mazur's party stayed with him until his expedition's Sherpas arrived four hour later. Mazur is a professional mountaineer, and he observed the mountaineering ethnic that anyone found in distress must be helped if possible.
     Mazur said that Osborne and Brash also agreed to sacrifice their summit chances: Osborne announced, "I'm not going to leave this guy here." Brash, with an eye on the perfect weather, said "Oh God!" and was depressed, said Mazur, but made no move to join others headed for the top.


expid: EVER06190
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Bahrain
leaders: Adnan Al Qassab
sponsor: Bahraini Team to Everest
bcdate: 2006-04-10
smtdate: 2006-04-12
termdate: 2006-04-13
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to altitude sickness
campsites: BC(5200m),IC(11/04,5800m),xxx(12/04,5800-6400m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Bahraini media gives name of leader as Adnan Al Qassab, not Adnan Al Jaber.


  Billi Bierling - 14 April 2006

  I met them in front of the Annapurna Hotel on 14 April. Both members told me that they had arrived in KTM on the previous day (13 April). The reason for their return was that Al-Qassimi got altitude sickness at ABC. They said that were returning to BC on 16 April. Both according to Mr Rai of Thamserku Trekking never intended to go back to Everest. They went back to Bahrain. Mr Rai was asked not to disclose any more details on the climbers. Other mountaineers doubted that the two even got as far as ABC. Phil Crampton told Miss Hawley that he did not think that they had time to get higher than intermediate camp. In an interview in "The Gulf Daily News" on 20 May 2006 Al-Jaber claimed they got to 8500m.


  Phil Crampton - 31 August 2006 

  They never got higher than ABC and probably not higher than intermediate camp at 5800m. It is 24 km from BC to ABC. One got altitude sickness in BC, the other higher and they left mountain right away. If seen by Billi Biering in KTM on 14th and said they had left BC on 13th, not likely they got above intermediate camp - there was a serious shortage of transport.


  Dominic Faulkner - by emails 1 and 4 Sept 2006 

  Unlikely they reached ABC; did not return to mountain after mid-April trip to Ktm.


  Commentary of the Bahrainis Everest Climb by E. Hawley - 4 Sept 2006

  There is the case of the two men from the Gulf state of Bahrain who set out to be the first Arabs to reach the summit of Everest on any Arab's first attempt, although they had never before been higher than 2000 meters. Adnan Al Jaber and Faraj Al Qassimi arrived in Kathmandu on 20 March to conquer the 8850m high peak. They made a nine-day acclimatization trek, not a technical climb, in Nepal's Everest area at altitudes of 4500-5000m before going to base camp in Tibet.

  When they returned to Kathmandu in mid-April, they would say only that one of them got altitude sickness but they were going back very soon. Instead, they left the area completely. Apparently they reached no higher than intermediate camp at 5800m. They had not been on the mountain long enough to have reached even advance base camp at 6400m.

  On return to Bahrain, however, they claimed triumphantly to have reached 8500m. "We were so close ... We could see the Everest peak," Al Jaber is quoted by the Gulf Daily News as saying. (One cannot see the summit of Everest from that altitude on the north side). They gave a chatty interview to the paper, spoke of the kindly help they had received from the Crown Prince to solicit funds, the training they devised to get in shape, how awesome their first sight of Everest was, how one must have "a 100 percent positive attitude" without which "you might kill yourself," and how unpleasant their experience was in the mountain's cold and rarefied atmosphere. But the published interview provided extremely few details of their actual climb, which is not surprising if they did very little.


expid: EVER06191
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Jang Duk-Sang
sponsor: 2006 Korea Jeju Qomalangma Expedition
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-07
smtdate: 2006-05-16
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2006-05-20
campsites: BC(07/04,5150m),ABC(10/04,6400m),C1(16/04,7100m),C2(14/05,7700m),C3(15/05,8300m),Smt(16/05)
agency: NE-KO Treks
routememo:
  Jung Sang-Soo, Kim Dae-Reang, Kim Min-Ho and Ang Babu Sherpa left C2 midnight of May 15. Jung and Ang Babu summited at 09:30 hours of 16th, stayed on summit for one hour, descended to C2 at 15:00 hours. Kim Dae-Reang Kim summited at 09:40 hours, stayed on summit 30 minutes, descended to C2 at 14:30 hours. Kim Min-Ho Kim summited at 10:20 hours, stayed on summit for 30 minutes and descended to C1 at 18:30 hours. Weather was clear during the day time. 

  Byun Chi-Woo highest was between ABC and North Col. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on May 22 and will leave on May 24.

  Ang Babu Sherpa summited Everest in 2004, 2005, Lhotse in 2001 and 2002. Cho Oyu in 2004, Sisha Pangma in 2001.
   

  Email from Jang Duk-Sang to Jeevan - 9 Aug 2006

  Our members used oxygen for sleeping and climbing from C2. 

  As an additional remark, it took about nine and half hours from C1 to C2 for my team members due to heavy snowstorm and a knee fall of snow. It took about 4 hours from C2 to C3.


expid: EVER06192
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Blair Falahey
sponsor: Australian Boxing Kangaroo Expedition to Everest
bcdate: 2006-04-10
smtdate: 2006-05-18
smttime: 0645
termdate: 2006-05-21
campsites: BC(10/04),ABC(16/04,6400m),C1(21/04,7000m),C2(27/04,7500m),C3(17/05,8300m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  17 may Falahey and 2 Sherpas left C3 at 10:44 pm NST on 16th, got to top 6:45 am of 18th and found 10-12 there from north and south sides; down to C3, half hour before wind hit at C3 about 12:00 hours and slept there. 19th to ABC.

  Falahey used oxygen in C2 to top to 7700m; 2 Sherpas in C3 to top to 8000m.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Karma Gyalzen, 4/9/83, Makalu-9, Everest X1
    Pasang Nuru, 17/5/74, Bupsa Solu, no 8000ers


expid: EVER06193
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Philippines
leaders: Dale Abenojar
sponsor: Dale Abenojar's Mt Everest Climb for Charity 2006
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-09
smtdate: 2006-05-15
smttime: 0845
termdate: 2006-05-21
campsites: BC(09/04,5200m),ABC(16/04,6400m),C1(03/05,7100m),C2(12/05,7700m),C3(13/05,8300m),Smt(15/05)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Abenojar, Tshering and Pasang Dorji left C3 at about 9:30 pm (NST) of May 14. Abenojar and Tshering reached to summit at 8:45 am on May 15, spent about 15 on the summit. The team saw lots of prayer flags on the summit. Abenojar said there were 6-7 people on the summit ahead of him and many people behind him. He could not recognize other people. At the summit Tshering took his picture from different sides and camera stopped functioning. Tshering also helped to lower a woman of Arun Trek at Second Step (the woman must be the Turkish woman who became unconscious as told by Turkish Expedition). Abenojar and Tshering descended together First and Second Step. Tshering got eye sight problem; he left for C2 telling Dale to descend slowly. Abenojar reached C3 at about 3 pm and stayed in his tent without sleeping bag, no stoves without food till the morning of 16th. At night there was snowfall and inside tent temperature estimated at -50 degrees. At about 8700m he lost his right glove while taking a chocolate. It was very difficult to descend using left glove on the right hand. He left C3 (the time could not recall as he did not have a watch) snow condition was 2 feet deep and difficult to walk. After about fifteen minutes walking Abenojar saw a man descending who was on main rope and two Sherpas of 7 Summits Club, going up. Abenojar asked for their help to descend him as he got frostbitten toe and very tired. Sherpa helped him to harness and clipped on to main rope. He reached C2 around 11:30 am, rested for a while and went down to C1 (North Col). 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on May 22 and may leave in first week of June.

  Sherpas:
    Chhiring Jangbu Sherpa, 1/18/77, Lokhim-9, Solu
      summited Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Sishapangma, Everest from both sides once
    Pasang Dorji Sherpa, Makalu, Walung, 26/9/81

  (TMA Certificate shows the height of Everest as 8844.43). His certificate gives him summit success based on what Abenojar told the LO.


  Email from James Ben Mallen 

  Subject: Dale Abenojar's Claim on summiting Everest

  Dale Abenojar's character and achievements here in the Philippines is very much doubtful because many have witnessed his failing in climbing one of the country's major mountain and I have personally witnessed his lack of endurance in climbing a less than 1000 meter.

  We have heard of your "exclusieve" interview with one of our broadcast network claiming such, but still we have doubts because of the practice of broadcast networks of sensationalizing news and information.


  Dear Mr. Mallen,

  This is in reply to your e-mail to <himalayandatabase.com).

  During the last week or two, I have had numerous phone calls from Filipino media about Dale Abenojar on the summit of Everest. My answer every time (most were taped) has been: He gave me two photos of a person on the top, and one of these clearly shows Makalu (but not Lhotse) in the background, which means that it was shot by someone at the summit of Everest from the north side.

  The face of this person cannot be clearly seen because it is in shadow and mostly covered by an oxygen mask. However, while I was talking with Mr. Abenojar at his hotel, a Canadian climber whom I have met several times in recent years and who was on the north side of Everest this spring but not on the top, joined us and looked at the two photos; he said the pattern and colors of the person's down clothes were the same as those on Mr. Abenojar's clothes.

  I have not specifically stated that Mr. Abenojar was on the summit. To the question whether I confirm that he was the first Filipino to reach the top, I have said that I have no idea who amongst them got there first.

  Sincerely yours,
  Elizabeth Hawley

accidents:
  Abenojar got chest infection (antibiotic was given by Indian expedition doctor at C1), then went down to CBC for recovery); Pasang Dorje got frostbite of toes of both feet; Abenojar got frostbite of left toe and was operated on


expid: EVER06194
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Chang-Beak
sponsor: 2006 from Halla to Everest Korea Snow Rock Expedition
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-07
smtdate: 2006-05-16
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2006-05-20
campsites: BC(07/04,5150m),ABC(10/04,6400m),C1(16/04,7100m),C2(25/04,7800m),C3(15/05,8300m),Smt(16/05)
agency: NE-KO Treks
routememo:
  BC  at CBC/IC on 9th at 5800m
  ABC at usual campsite
  C1  at North Col
  C2  at usual campsite
  C3  at usual campsite

  Ko, Nima Dorje, Mingma Thinduk, Tenji and Tenzing left C3 at midnight of May 15 and summited at 10:30 hours of 16th, stayed on summit about 30 minutes. All descended to C2 at 16:00 hours. Descended to ABC next day. Summit day weather was good but little windy. Three people of Korean Busan expedition and another 3 Korean people were ahead of Ko's team on the summit. 

  Han had to leave expedition due to personal reasons; he left CBC on April 29 and
    left Kathmandu on 31st. 
  Lee (leader) stayed at ABC. 
  Lee Young-Ho went up to C1. He suffered from headache and went down to ABC. 
  Oh also had to go down from C1 to ABC due to toothache. 
  Park remained at ABC. No climbing. 

  The expedition team returned to Kathmandu on May 22 and will leave on 24th.


expid: EVER06195
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Yoon Keon-Jung
sponsor: 2006 IT's Daejon Everest Expedition
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-03
smtdate: 2006-05-16
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2006-05-19
campsites: BC(03/04,5200m),ABC(08/04,6400m),C1(11/04,7100m),C2(20/04,7600m),C3(15/05,8300m),Smt(16-17/05)
accidents: First degree frostbite in both toes of Go whiles descending between ABC to CBC
achievment: 1st ascent on Everest of Daejon St Mary's Hospital
agency: NE-KO Treks
routememo:
  Kang, Lee Seung-Bok, Pasang Rita and Ang Tshiring left C3 at 23:00 hours on May 15. Kang and Ang Tshiring reached summit at about 07:30 hours on 16th, stayed on summit for one hour. Lee Seung-Bok Lee and Pasang Rita summited at about 08:00 hours. They stayed on summit 30 minutes. All members and Sherpas descended to ABC between 19:00-23:00 hours. Weather was very good, no wind, clear and warm. The team saw clear view of Makalu, Lhotse - south side view was very good. Ang Tshiring offered rice and put prayer flags around summit. About 10 climbers and Sherpas were already there when they reached summit. Behind them there were 6-8 climbers. 

  Kim, Phura Nuru and Nga Tenji Sherpa started from C3 at 23:00 hours on May 16, summited at 07:20 hours on 17th, stayed on summit for 30 minutes. Kim and Phura Nuru descended to ABC where they reached at 18:00 hours. Nga Tenji slept at North Col. Weather at the beginning of climbing was windy but when the team came over to Second Step the weather became calm and clear. There were already people on the summit from other expeditions. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on May 21 and will leave on 24.

  Member Go very tired while at ABC and sent to CBC; also suffered from frostbite in both toes. 
  Lee Kyong-Yol climbed up to C2 (7600m) on April 11. 
  Yang You-Suk highest was C1 - he suffered from headache and went down to CBC. 
  Yoo Jae-Il and Yoon Keon-Jung (leader) both members went up to C1.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Pasang Rita, 17/12/77, Thamo, Everest X2
    Ang Tshering, 22/4/80, Chaplung, Chaurikharka-3, 1st 8000er
    Phura Nuru, 28/06/85, Tesho, Namche-3, Cho Oyu X1
    Nga Tenji, 28/2/80, Makalu-9, Nurbugaon, 1st 8000er


expid: EVER06196
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Baek Doo-In
sponsor: 2006 Chonman National University Qomolangma Expedition
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-07
smtdate: 2006-05-16
smttime: 0820
termdate: 2006-05-20
campsites: BC(07/04,5150m),ABC(10/04,6400m),C1(16/04,7100m),C2(14/05,7700m),C3(15/05,8300m),Smt(16/05)
agency: NE-KO Treks
routememo:
  Hyun-Jo Lee, Yun, Hyung-Kwan Lee, Thilen Sherpa, Peme Sherpa and Tashi Sherpa left C3 at midnight (CST) of May 15. Yun had to turn around to C3 from First Step due to eye problem. Both Lee, Thilen, Peme and Tashi Sherpa reached summit together at 10:35 hours (08:20 NST) on May 16, stayed on summit one hour and descended to C3 at 14:00 hours. Next day to ABC. Others on summit on that day were members and Sherpas of Korean expeditions, Swedish and Chinese. The summit day weather was little windy and there were snowfall at the beginning. After sunrise it became clear and warm. 

  The expedition was organized on the occasion of celebrating 50th anniversary of founding of the Chonnan National University alumni. 

  The expedition team returned to Kathmandu on May 22 and will leave on 24th.

  Baek (leader), Hyun-Jun Kim, Yong-Oyk Kim and Young-Pil Kim remained at North Col through out the expedition as support team.

  Miss Ga-Young Kim climbed up to C2 on April 23 and gave up climbing due to cold.

  Summit Sherpas:
    Thilen Sherpa, 18/5/1968, Nurbugaon, Makalu, Ever X6, Cho Oyu X1
    Peme Sherpa, 21/9/65, Tashigaon, Makalu, Ever X2
    Tashi Lhakpa, 18/11/85, Mathilow, Makalu, Ever X2.


expid: EVER06171
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Hong Bo-Seong
sponsor: Dynamic 2006 Busan Everest Expedition
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-08
smtdate: 2006-05-16
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2006-05-19
campsites: BC(08/04,5150m),ABC(22/04,6400m),C1(26/04,7050m),C2(06/05,7700m),C3(15/05,8300m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  Kim, Soo, Nima Nurbu, Jumik Bhote and Pemba Nuru Sherpa left C3 at 22:30 hours (NST) on May 15. Two members and three Sherpas summited at 06:30 hours on May 16, stayed on summit for 40 minutes, descended to C3 at 10:00 hours. Other people ahead of this team were about 8 people from other Korean expedition and many others from international expeditions. About 20 people summited on that day. Summit day weather was good, little windy and little lowland clouds.

  Cho went up to C1 on May 5, suffered from stomach problem then descended to CBC.
  Hong (leader) went up to ABC on May 3 and remained at CBC for rest of the time.
  Jeong climbed little above ABC to 6600m on May 14, suffered from stomach problem, 
    descended to CBC. 
  Kwon went up to 7150m, had stomach problem, then descended to CBC. 
  Park went up to 7300m, had stomach problem, then descended to CBC.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Nima Nurbu Sherpa, sirdar, 18/06/1974, Namche-8, Solukhumbu,   
      summited Everest from south 3 times and one time from North
    Jumik Bhote, 7/6/79, Hatiya-1, Sankhuwasabha, summited Pumori 29 March 2005
    Pemba Nuru Sherpa, 17/1/77, Namche VDC-8, Solukhumbu, Everest 2X

  The team returned to Kathmandu on May 21 and will leave on 24.


expid: EVER06154
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Seiichi Kitamura
sponsor: Japanese team on Everest
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-06
smtdate: 2006-05-17
smttime: 1222
termdate: 2006-05-26
campsites: BC(06/04,5200m),ABC(12/04,6400m),C1(24/04,7000m),C2(15/04,7900m),C3(16/04,8300m),Smt(17/05)
accidents: HACE by Ang Temba; frostbite by Kamikomaki
agency: Nepal Exploration (NEPA) Treks
routememo:
  Team left C3 at 11 pm on 16 May. They encountered a traffic jam at 2nd Step. They had to wait for about one hour. After summiting they descended to C3, where they arrived at 5 pm NST. When they arrived they noticed that Ang Temba who was at the end of the line, was missing. They expected him to arrive shortly. Due to exhaustion they all fell asleep very quickly. Pasang Tendu woke up at 4 am and noticed that Ang Temba still had not arrived. He and Chhedar started to look for him when it got light. They found him just above C3. Ang Temba was being helped down by Jangbu Sherpa from Dan Mazur's expedition. He had spent the night at 8600m near the cave where the dead Indian (from 1996 spring) otherwise known as "Green Boots" is lying. On descent he was very exhausted and sat down. He fell asleep and when he woke up it was dark and his oxygen had run out. He had no battery power for his head torch left, so he decided to stay up there. When it got light he started descending but was very weak. Crampton (Mazur's expedition) and Jangbu found him below 1st Step all tangled up in ropes. When Ang Temba arrived at C3 he collapsed but his team managed to get him down to the North Col - short roped. The next day (19 May) they descended to ABC and from there he was carried down to BC by 4 Tibetans as he was by that point unable to walk. On drive back to Kathmandu he was most of the time unconscious. When they got to Kathmandu, Ang Temba and Kamikomaki (who had suffered frostbite on both hands and feet) were taken to hospital. Ang Temba had lost his memory for 5 days but recovered and is fine now.

  Oxygen:
    From 7000m to summit to 7900m by Kamikomaki and Endo
    From 7900m to summit to 7900m by Kitamura and Yajima
    From 8300m to summit to 8300m by Chhedar and Pasang Tendi
    From 8300m to summit to 8600m by Ang Temba

  Sherpas: 
    Ang Temba Sherpa, Beding, 10/2/59, Everest 1990, Anna 1985, Dhaula, Cho Oyu X3
    Tendi Sherpa, 27/10/83, Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha, Everest X2
    Chhedar Sherpa, Sisuwakhola, Sankhuwasabha, Everest X2


expid: EVER06143
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Everest Expedition 2006
countries: Australia, Denmark, France, Lebanon, Switzerland, UK, USA
bcdate: 2006-04-05
smtdate: 2006-04-30
smttime: 1505
termdate: 2006-05-20
accidents: Several frostbite cases; Thapa Magar died of pulmonary edema
achievment: 1st double amputee on top (Inglis)
agency: Mountain Experience
campsites:
  SherpasBC(23/03,5141m),MbrsBC(05/04,5141m),ABC(13/04,6376m),C1(27/04,7024m),C2(10/05,7511m),C3(11/05,7806m),C4(13/05,8250m),Smt(30/04,14-15/05)

routememo:
  Made C3 and C4 to stay out of way of all others. This team fixed ropes from 6500m to top all the way (spent $32,160) and received from other climbers $14,700 only).

  Sherpa/Tibetan summit party of 30 April summited at 15:05 and returned to ABC at 20:45.

  1st [client] summit party left C4 at 1:10 am of 14 May and on top 9:55 am to 10:06 am; left top at 10:30 am: Hefti to C3 at 5:32 pm; at 7:42-8:25 pm all others to C1. Jensen turned back at 8100m (not using oxygen getting cold) on 13th of May.

  2nd [client] summit party left C4 at 11:10-11:20 pm on 14 May; on top at 6:15 am of 15 May, left at 7:05 am. All members down to C3 at 11:43 am to 2:22 pm, some Sherpas/Tibetans to C2. In 15th summit party Bourrat and Medvetz turned back at 8700m too slow - frostbitten waiting at bottom of 2nd Step, 1 hours for others to move and over 1 hour in descent of 2nd Step.

  Summiters:

  30 April:
    Phurba Tashi, 24/5/71, Khumjung, Everest X9, Cho Oyu X5
    Son Dorje, 22/5/63, Phortse, Everest X2
    Dorje Sonam Gyalzen, 1981, Phortse, Everest X4
    Tashi Phinzo, aka Tashi Phuntsok, Tashi Pingtso, Tibetan, 1980,
  	Shigatse, Cho Oyu 21/9/03, Everest 23/5/04
    Tashi Tsering, aka "Small" Tashi Tsering, Tibetan, Cho Oyu 21/9/03 & 22/9/05.
    Tenzen, aka Tenzing, Den Zeng, Tashi Tenzing, Tibetan, 28/2/82,
  	Shigatse, Everest 30/5/03, Cho Oyu 27/9/03 (Japanese) & 26/9/04 (Brice)

  14 May
    Marcel Bach
    Bill Crouse
    Kurt Hefti
    Terrace O'Connor
    Kenneth Sauls
    Phura Nuru, 30/10/82, Thami, 1st 8000er, Ang Rita's son
    Karsang Namgel/Namgyal, 24/8/71, Thami, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X6
    Lopsang/Lupsang Temba, 23/5/68, Khumjung, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X7
    Pema Chhosang, 30/4/72, Khumjung, 1st 8000er
    Ngawang Dhandun, aka Norbu Dradul, Norbu Dhendup, Luo Bu Zhan Dul, Tibetan, 
      1980, Shigatse, Everest 5/6/05, Cho Oyu 25/9/04
    Ping Tso, aka Phinzo, Tibetan
    Tashi Tsering (again from ABC)

  15 May
    Wayne Alexander
    Maxime Chaya
    Shaun Hutson
    Mark Inglis
    Robert Kilip
    Mark Whetu
    Mark Woodward
    Son Dorje (again from ABC)
    Lhakpa Nuru, 18/6/80, Khumjung (moved to Phortse), Everest 22/5/03
    Dorje Sonam Gyalzen (again from ABC)
    Tashi Phinzo (again from ABC)
    "Small" Phubu Tshering, aka Phurbu Tshering, Tibetan, 13/12/83, Shigatse, 
      Everest 23/5/04 & 5/6/05 (Brice)
    "Small" Wang Dui, Tibetan
    Dor Jee, Tibetan
    Tenzen (again from ABC)

  Notes regarding non-summiter members

  Brice stayed at C1 at North Col because from here he could see all camps by telescope and so more effective leader.

  Medvetz turned back at 8700m in his summit bid since he was too slow because of a lot of pieces of metal in his legs after a motorbike accident and can't walk properly.

  Merrell turned back at North Col because not fit enough to go on.

  Peedom was member of film team and went to C4 only.

  Oxygen:
    Bach from C2 to top to C1
    Bourrat from C1 to 8100m to ABC
    Inglis in C3 to top to supply ran out below C3
    Medvetz from C2 to 8700m to ABC
    All other members from C3 to high points till supply ran out except 
      Jensen, who used none.
    Sherpas and Tibetans in C4 to top until supply ran out somewhere below C3.

  Frostbite cases: 
    Bourrat slight frostbite
    Hutson frostbitten toes
    Inglis frostbitten fingers and stumps of both legs (see next page)
    Kilip one toe frostbitten
    Medvetz slight frostbite

  Tuk Bahadur Thapa Magar (18/5/74, Kerung, Solu) died of pulmonary edema at base camp on 4 April after fixing ropes to the North Col. After his second ascent to the North Col, he fell ill from HAPE, was evacuated to base camp where he later died.


  Mark Inglis interview - 22 May 2006:

  "If you're a climber, as I have been all my life, the skills are there" already. "My problem is not going up but coming down." This means "you have to be very careful" and there is "by far more wear and tear on the stumps." He got "superficial" frostbite on his stumps during descent (temperature was minus 45 degrees going up), and one finger will lose its top digit.

  During his climb, one of his artificial legs broke, but that was only "a minor handicap." When he was going down the fixed ropes from the North Col, an anchor pulled out, he did a couple of somersaults, and ended up sitting in snow with one foot beside him. He did "a field fix" with duct tape and went carefully down the ropes. A new leg was brought up from ABC by Wayne Alexander, the maker of his legs, who later rebuilt the broken one stronger than it was originally (Alexander went to the top with him).

  He had trained for this climb and summited Cho Oyu on 24 Sept 2004, but "the extreme environment" above C3 on Everest was not present at the summit of Cho Oyu.

  He feels "huge satisfaction" at having climbed Everest. He will not go to any big mountain in future.


  Mark Whetu interview - 22 May 2006

  Inglis was stuck for 14 days on Mt. Cook in 1981 or '82 and his frostbitten legs were amputated at mid-calf. His fingers were only slightly frostbitten and no amputation on them.

  On this Everest climb, during which Whetu was assigned to him, on the summit on 15 May he realized his fingers had been affected by the cold but it was only back in C3 that evening when he took his legs off that he realized his stumps were discolored from frostbite. Inglis went down to ABC in the evening of 16 May by being lowered on his bottom by Mark Woodward, another guide assigned to him. He rested in ABC on the 17th, and yaks carried him to base camp on the 18th.


expid: JANK06101
peakid: JANK
year: 2006
route1: S Face-SW Pillar/Ridge-W Face-N Ridge
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Andrej Stremfelj
sponsor: Slovenian Pathivara Expedition 2006
ascent1: 1st
approach: From Pathivara Chuli BC
bcdate: 2006-04-11
smtdate: 2006-05-06
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2006-05-07
othersmts: Attempted Pyramid Peak (PYRM-061-01); climbed Sphinx (SPHN-061-01)
campsites: BC(11/04,5140m),ABC(03/05,5715m),Biv1(05/05,6800m),Smt(06/05)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Wilderness Experience
primid: SPHN06101
routememo:
  ABC at Broken Glacier just east of point 6082m on Nepali map
  Biv 1 on SW Pillar/Ridge.

  3 May Stremfelj, Zalokar and 2 Sherpas porters left BC at 7:00 am east to Lhonak, north to Broken Glacier to ABC at same place in autumn 2005 but now much more snow; members arrived at this ABC at 3:00 pm and Sherpas at 4:00; put up one tent and only Slovenians stayed there (Sherpas to BC). 4 May rested, but 2 hours to bottom of South Face to see face, which Zalokar had not seen before. 5 May 0:30 hours started for climb from ABC and at 2:30 am started actual ascent of South Face; up face to join SW Pillar at 6300m (face had a lot of wide ice gullies, not smooth climbing); now up SW Pillar which had numerous pitches, to biv of only tent and cooker at 6800m at 6:00 pm on icefield. 6 May at 6:00 am up pillar's icefield to west side of pillar, now to West Face (45-70 degree ice mostly same mixed rock and Ice) to summit ridge, the North Ridge of Janak Chuli (on North Ridge only 60 minutes to top). On top at 2:30 pm with light snowfall; after 5 minutes started down same route to bottom of face (5900m) at 5:30 am 7 May and on to ABC at 9:00 am. Sherpas arrived at 2:00 pm to get loads and down to Lhonak at 7:00 pm in heavy snowfall. Stayed at Lhonak that night and on 8th to Ghunsa and joined rest of team there (all 7 members).


expid: KANG06101
peakid: KANG
year: 2006
route1: SW Face
nation: Colombia
leaders: Ivan Vallejo
sponsor: South American Expedition
ascent1: 70th w/Garcia
countries: Ecuador
approach: By helicopter to Taplejung
bcdate: 2006-04-14
smtdate: 2006-05-22
smttime: 1706
termdate: 2006-06-25
campsites: BC(14/04,5500m),C1(24/04,6200m),C2(29/04,6800m),C3(07/05,7200m),C4(21/05,7700m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Ang Nuru Sherpa
routememo:
  On 19 May Vallejo, Gonzalez-Rubio and Juanito's team left C3 at 2:10 am. The weather was good. When they got to 8300m the weather closed in and they decided to turn back to C3, where they arrived at 4:30 pm. On 20 May everybody decided to descend to BC, but Vallejo stayed at C3. Even though he was tired he thought he could give it another try. Joao Garcia was on his way up, which Vallejo knew. He arrived on 21 May at midday. Vallejo and Garcia carried on to C4, where they arrived at 6 pm on 21 May. On 22 May they left C4 at 3:20 am. The conditions were good, a bit of fresh snow. Weather was clear, but the climb was hard. They spent about 30 minutes on summit and descended to C4 where they arrived at 9 pm. When they arrived at C4 they could not melt any snow as they could not find the gas Garcia had deposited previously. The next day they left C4 at 10 am and arrived at BC at 9 pm. They stopped at C3 for drinks as there was gas.

  The climb was very strenous, not because of the technical difficulties, but because of the long distance.


expid: KANG06102
peakid: KANG
year: 2006
route1: SW Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Ralf Dujmovits
sponsor: International Kangchenjunga Expedition 2006
ascent1: 68th
countries: Austria, Finland, Japan
bcdate: 2006-04-16
smtdate: 2006-05-14
smttime: 1630
termdate: 2006-05-17
othersmts: Attempted Lhotse (LHOT-061-02)
campsites: BC(16/04,5300m),C1(24/04,6100m),C2(01/05,7200m),C3(13/05,7700m),Smt(14/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at little lower than Garcia's camp
  C1 at left of top of Icefall
  C3 at west end of Great Shelf.

  Started from C3 5:00 am (had intended to start at 11:00 pm of 13th but finally snowfall stopped only at 4:00 am but not enough for avalanche danger). Got to top 4:30 pm and back to C3 at 9:00 pm with wind and snowfall; horrible night in tents that had been collapsed by Portuguese. Garcia to keep them from blowing away and in storm not possible to erect them. 15th to BC direct; from BC to Ramche where helicopter took them to Everest BC on 18th.


expid: KANG06103
peakid: KANG
year: 2006
route1: SW Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Juanito Oiarzabal
sponsor: Yalung Kang Expedition
approach: Suketar->Lalikharka->Jambuding
bcdate: 2006-04-14
smtdate: 2006-05-19
termdate: 2006-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 8500m due to bad weather (thunderstorm)
campsites: BC(14/04,5500m),C1(20/04,6200m),C2(25/04,6800m),C3(30/04,7200m),C4(18/05,7700m),xxx(19/05,8500m)
accidents: Oiarzabal had problems with his feet (previously frostbitten)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Team left C4 at 1:30 am on 19 May (Ivan Vallejo and Fernando Gonzalez climbed with this team). There was a lot of snow. Weather was changeable. They got to 8500m at midnight and decided to turn back as the weather turned very bad. Snowfall and wind, however when they got back to C4 at 3 pm the weather was clear again. They arrived at C4 at 3 pm, packed up their tents and descended to C3, where they arrived at 5 pm. Ivan Vallejo stayed at C3 on 20 May. Team went down to BC. Team was very upset that they did not wait at C3 for another day as the following days were perfect. They watched Ivan Vallejo and Joao Garcia on their summit push with binoculars. 

  Oiarzabal got to 6500m on 22 April, but abandoned climb due to problems with his feet (he has no toes left - he lost them on K2 in 2004). He also not feeling strong enough. He left BC on 23 April and returned to Kathmandu 3 May.

  Initially team wanted to climb Yalung Kang. But after Juanito had left the expedition, the remaining team decided to go for Kangchenjunga as there was too much snow on Yalung Kang and they knew that they needed the help of other teams.

  Sherpas did not climb above 7700m on 18 May. The two Sherpas were Pemba Dorjee and Pasang Norbu Sherpa.


expid: KANG06104
peakid: KANG
year: 2006
route1: SW Face
nation: Australia
leaders: Andrew Lock
sponsor: Independent climber on Kangchenjunga
ascent1: 69th
approach: Suketar->Ramche
bcdate: 2006-04-16
smtdate: 2006-05-14
smttime: 1700
termdate: 2006-05-17
campsites: BC(16/04,5350m),C1(24/04,6150m),C2(30/05,6700m),C3(01/05,7200m),C4(13/05,7700m),Smt(14/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Lock left C4 at 4 am together with Dujmovits, Garcia, Kaltenbrunner, Gustafsson, Hirotaka. Norbert Joos team left at the same time. Weather was cloudy an it was snowing. When they started it was calm but wind picked up during course of the day. Climb was very strenous. He stayed on summit for a few minutes to take pictures as they had good views. Wind was very strong. He descended in the dark and arrived at C4 at 9:30 pm. His and Garcia's tent was half buried in snow and torn when they arrived at C4. Next morning the wind had eased. He went back to BC, where he arrived at 6 pm. 

  On 18 May he took a helicopter to Lukla. The helicopter first went to BC to pick up Norbert Joos and 2 of his members as Joos had suffered a minor stroke. He was taken to Ramche. When he arrived there he felt better. So Lock, Kaltenbrunner, Dujmovits, Gustafsson and Hirotaki flew to Lukla. Helicopter refuelled there, dropped off Kaltenbrunner, Dujmovits and Hirotaki at Everest BC and returned to Kathmandu with Lock and Gustafsson.


expid: KANG06105
peakid: KANG
year: 2006
route1: SW Face
nation: Portugal
leaders: Joao Garcia
sponsor: Independent team on Cho Oyu
ascent1: 70th w/Vallejo
bcdate: 2006-04-16
smtdate: 2006-05-22
smttime: 1700
termdate: 2006-05-25
campsites: BC(16/04,5300m),C1(01/05,6100m),C3(12/05,7100m),C4(13/05,7700m),Smt(22/05)
accidents: No accident or injuries
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  Garcia left C4 for the top at 1:00 am of 22nd May and got there at 5:00 pm; on top also was Ivan Vallejo from his Ecuadorian expedition; slept in C4 and next day in BC. Very good weather on summit day.


  Email from Joao Garcia to Billi Bierling - 22 June 2006

  On the 23rd April, Andrew Lock, Antonio and myself were going to C1 (6100m) from BC, our first incursion on altitude camps and before the 1st shoulder (+6000m). Antonio started to slow down. He said nothing and it is normal for a party of 3 pax that one decides to go slowly. At about 10:00 me and Andrew reached C1 and made the altitude deposit. We didn't pitch any tent so quickly we started descent back to BC. About 12h we find Antonio laying on the snow in pain agony on top of the 1st shoulder. We made a first diagnosis and we knew that it was something bad and serious. We abandoned his load there and Andrew and I descend him to BC. I short-roped him and Andrew carried the 3 empty packs. Here in BC Gerlinde and Ralf helped along with some sat phone call to doctor, helped to make a better diagnosis. It was something bad and he had to go to a hospital quickly. About 14h we started descending to Ramche where I was told that the helicopter could land to pick us up. Antonio descended all the way on his own. I helped coordinating by phone with insurance company and helicopter and we brought 3 Sherpas along, well a kitchen cook, a sirdar and another kitchen boy just in case... nobody else from our expedition helped anymore. We arrived on Ramche about midnight after 10 hours of trekking. I was giving antibiotics and strong pain killers to him, checking SPO2 and pulse to Antonio from time to time... On the 24th morning Antonio was vomiting, and had much more pain on top of his right leg. At 7:00 we heard the helicopter coming. At about 10:00 we were at the hospital. In the evening and after other tests and exams, the doctor Malla (Norvic Hospital) told me that it was for sure appendicitis and that they were going to operate him immediately.

  I stayed in Kathmandu 3 more days until doctor gave Antonio medical release and that I could organize his repatriation back home. On the 28th I flew back to Ramche. Next day I trekked directly to BC.


expid: KANG06106
peakid: KANG
year: 2006
route1: SW Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Norbert Joos
sponsor: Swiss Kangchenjunga Expedition
ascent1: 67th
bcdate: 2006-04-13
smtdate: 2006-05-14
smttime: 1630
termdate: 2006-05-19
campsites: BC(13/04,5500m),C1(21/04,6150m),C2(28/04,6850m),C3(13/05,7730m),Smt(14/05)
accidents: Joos stroke and slight frostbite in foot; Gujan & Zinsli slight frostbite in foot
agency: Himalayan High Country Treks
routememo:
  BC at highest plan for BC in normal area.

  Hoped to make C3 one week after C2 but heavy snowfall with knee-deep snow on ground delayed progress till 13 May. Left C3 for top; all members and Sherpas Phura Gyalzen, Pemba Rinzi and Dawa Tshering. Abegglen turned back at 8500m at 8:00 pm because he saw a storm coming up, back in C3 5:00 pm. 3 members and 3 Sherpas got to top at 4:30 pm of 14 May; Toggenburg had also turned back at 8500m. Bad storm (wind,snow) came at 6:30 pm and lasted 2 hours; it blew away one of C3's 3 tent containing all cooking supplies, so 5 members crowded into one tent and 4 Sherpas in the other. 15th May all down to BC with all gear. 3 members got slight frostbitten in descent from top in the storm: Joos in one foot, Zinsli and Gujan in fingers. 

  On 16th May in BC Joos had a stroke: for 4 hours he couldn't speak and right side paralyzed; this condition gradually improved (trekking agent said 18 May when Joos in Kathmandu his speech slurred; Zinsli questions possibility of full recovery).

  Sherpa Summiters:
    Phura Gyalzen - 22 yrs old, Pangkoma, Solu, 1st 8000er
    Pemba Rinzi   - 25/11/74, Kharikhola, Everest X6, Kang X1, Lhotse X1
    Dawa Tshering - 24 yrs old, Khunde, 1st 8000er


expid: KWAN95301
peakid: KWAN
year: 1995
route1: N Face-Kwangde Shar-Main Smt (up); NE Ridge (down)
nation: France
leaders: Christophe Profit
bcdate: 1995-11-04
smtdate: 1995-11-30
smttime: 1300
termdate: 1995-12-01
campsites: BC(04/11,3600m),Biv1(06/11,4800m),Biv2(28/11,5600m),Biv3(29/11,5800m),Smt(30/11),Biv4(30/11,5000m)
agency: None
routememo:
  Alpine style above ABC.

  7 Nov went north to NE Ridge to see route up North Face; west to 5100m on ridge and rapelled down to ABC. 9 Nov to BC and raining in mid-afternoon (start of great storm of 9-10 Nov); stayed at BC on 11th to dry everything and 12th to Namche because too much snow up above and back to BC. 13th at BC. 14th to ABC but nothing there in 3-4 meters of snow of huge avalanche so back to BC. 15th up to look for ABC tents in Parechu Khola, where was lot of avalanche debris but no tents. 16th again BC to ABC, borrowing 4 shovels; made 16 holes in snow but could find nothing of camp and back to BC. 17th Profit to Kathmandu to get more gear from his drums [containers] (others to Kala Patar). All returned to Namche used as base 22 Nov with no tented BC. Had to wait for nearly week for snow conditions. 26 Nov to Hongu in local house. 26th 4:00 pm to bottom face, at 7:00 am 27th arrived at bottom. 8:00 am went on to face with all gear and made 1st biv on North Face at 3:00 pm. Route was technical from bottom of face with 80-85 degree ice climbing at start and then 300m above bottom of face not nearly so steep most of rest of distance to 1st biv. 28th very difficult section so gained only 200m with very difficult very technical 2 pitches of poor ice but could make good platform for 2nd biv. 29th made route to East Summit Kwangde Shar, (Jeff Lowe had made route to West Summit Kwangde Lho and arrived on East Ridge of Kwangde Shar). 30th Ruby not well, so he and Beauzey descended after 1 hour's climb towards summit to biv and on down mountain while Profit and Rhem reached top at 1:00 pm and down (all down NE Ridge to biv together at 5000m on East Face of NE Ridge. 1st Dec to Namche and 2nd to Kathmandu.

  Difficulty same as Droit in Alps - "very nice route."


expid: LHOT06101
peakid: LHOT
year: 2006
route1: W Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Fabio Meraldi
sponsor: Un Songnare Longo 3 Cime (Ama Dablam, Pumori, Lhotse)
ascent1: 103
approach: Pumori BC
bcdate: 2006-05-20
smtdate: 2006-05-24
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2006-05-26
othersmts: Climbed Ama Dablam (AMAD-061-09); attempted Pumori (PUMO-061-04)
campsites: BC(20/05,5350m),C2(22/05,6400m),C3(23/05,7200m),Smt(24/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Giovannini & Meraldi left C3 at 2:30 am. Weather was good, not cold and it was clear. At about 8000m Meraldi decided to turn back as he felt too tired. He thinks he had lost all his energy on Pumori. It was about 11 am when he turned back to C3, where he arrived at 1 pm. Giovannini carried on to the summit. Good views. He descended to C3 where he arrived at 4 pm. They descended to BC on 25 May.


expid: LHOT06102
peakid: LHOT
year: 2006
route1: W Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Ralf Dujmovits
sponsor: International Lhotse Expedition
countries: Austria, Japan
bcdate: 2006-05-18
smtdate: 2006-05-26
termdate: 2006-05-29
termnote: Abandoned at 8400m due to exhaustion and closure of icefall route
othersmts: Climbed Kangchenjunga (KANG-061-02)
campsites: BC(18/05,5350m),C2(24/05,6400m),C3(25/05,7200m),xxx(26/05,8400m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Everest BC site
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face.

  19th too tired to climb so down to rest to Deboche. 23rd back in BC. 26th May all 3 members tried to go to top: got to 8400m at 5:00 pm very near top of couloir but now too late to continue up and weather "beautiful." 20 minutes in descent, Kaltenbrunner headlamp died. Down to C3 to sleep and BC 27th May and climb finished because too tired and Khumbu Icefall route being closed.


expid: LHOT06103
peakid: LHOT
year: 2006
route1: W Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Mario Merelli
sponsor: Lhotse 50th Anniversary
ascent1: 102
countries: Spain
approach: Lukla->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-26
smtdate: 2006-05-19
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2006-05-21
campsites: BC(26/04,5200m),C2(30/04,6400m),C3(03/05,7000m),C4(17/05,7800m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Berardi fell down about 20m between BC/C1 at about 5600m on April 29 (evacuated from BC by helicopter on 30th to Kathmandu). Stayed one night in hospital. Next day left for Italy. Berardi was shocked and his eye sight is very weak, he may stay in hospital for two months.

  On May 19 Casarotto, Castagna, Confortola, Corona and Mondinelli left C4 at 04:00 hours. Casarotto, Corona and Mondinelli summited at 09:00 hours, stayed on summit about 10 minutes; there was strong wind. Corona and Mondinelli descended to BC at 21:00 hours. Casarotto descended to C3 at 13:00 hours (about). Miss Castagna suffered from cold feet at 8100m; she was without oxygen (first female member to reach 8100m without oxygen in the season). Castagna turned around to C4. Confortola had to give up at 8400m due to cold feet and back to C4. 

  On May 20 Merelli and Quesada attempted for summit but had to turn around from 8450m due to strong wind and deep snow about two feet to C4. Summit day weather was very good, no wind, sunny, snow condition was also good.

  The expedition returned to Kathmandu on May 25 and leave on 27th.

  Zaffaroni reached up to C3 on May 3; due to work problem back home had to leave expedition early.

accidents:
  Berardi fell down about 20m between BC/C1 at about 5600m on April 29 (evacuated from BC by helicopter)


expid: LHOT06104
peakid: LHOT
year: 2006
route1: W Face
nation: Norway
leaders: Sven Gangdal
sponsor: Norwegian Lhotse Expedition
ascent1: 100
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2006-04-18
smtdate: 2006-05-13
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2006-05-15
campsites: BC(18/04,5200m),C1(25/04,6000m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(29/04,7300m),C4(09/05,7900m),Smt(13/05)
agency: Chchhogaru Treks
routememo:
  Gangdal, Dawa Chhiri and Da Chhiri Sherpa left C4 at 03:00 hours on May 13, summited at 07:00 hours, stayed at summit 30 minutes. Descended to C2 at 14:00 hours. Next day to BC. Summit day weather was good, no wind, no clouds, view from summit was very good. Clouds started forming while descending. There was half-meter deep snow between C2 and BC. 

  Alnaes climbed up to 6700m between C2 and C3; she was exhausted and had breathing problem on 5th or 6th May. 

  Other member Oppegaard left expedition on May 4 and Kathmandu on 8th or 9th. Oppegaard had to leave due to his bad behaviour; at one point Gangdal had to leave. Oppegaard wanted to use performance enhancing drugs to climb the mountain which Gangdal refused and did not want to take responsibility for Oppegaard. 

  The expedition returned Kathmandu on May 19 and trying to leave as soon as possible. 

  Gangdal is planning to come for Cho Oyu in autumn next year.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Tshering/Chhiri, 3-8-1971, Gaurishankar-1, Beding, Dolakha. 
      Summited Everest 4 times. Dawa said that he was the first 
      Nepali to summit Everest through NE Ridge (Tibet) with Japanese Expedition. 
      Other summits are on Manaslu, Makalu, Cho Oyu (5 times), Shishapangma (twice), 
      Broad Peak (Central), Ama Dablam (2 times - winter), 
      summited 50 times on Goldsotigen highest peak in Norway.
    Dawa/Da Chhiri Sherpa, 19/2/78, Phurte, summited Makalu X1 and Everest X2

    Kili Pemba Sherpa, up to 7900m, 16/5/85, Beding, Manaslu X1, Cho Oyu X2, Ever X2
    Nawang Tenzing Sherpa, up to 7500m, 11/5/67, Beding, Ever X3, Cho Oyu X4


expid: LHOT06105
peakid: LHOT
year: 2006
route1: W Face
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Arnold Coster
sponsor: SummitClimb Lhotse Expedition 2006
ascent1: 101
countries: Turkey, USA
bcdate: 2006-04-13
smtdate: 2006-05-17
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2006-05-20
campsites: BC(13/04,5350m),C1(22/04,6000m),C2(29/04,6350m),C3(03/05,7200m),C4(16/05,7700m),Smt(17/05)
accidents: Hodges frostbite
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 at the "turtle" below couloir

  4 May down from C3, where had gone for acclimatization for BC. Hodges was slow to get to C2 and arrived with frostbite in 10 fingers because wearing too thin gloves and exhausted; Findik reached BC while Hodges stayed in C2 to warm fingers in warm water, went to BC on 5th, then 7th by helicopter to KTM to go home; fingers black with blisters and may loose some tips. 

  Findik had to wait till Chileans finished their climb and made space for him in C4. Findik left BC 12 May to C2, 15th to C3 and 16th in C4; in this party were Phuri Sherpa, Phurba Sherpa and Mrs Maya Sherpa; left 17th May at 2:00 am and all reached 8450m at 1:30 pm and Findik on top at 2:00 pm while Sherpas not so skilled technically not able to go to top up thinly snow-covered rock and now no fixed ropes so each failed to surmount this part and started down at 2:30 pm from their high point and Findik later joined Sherpas so all 4 down together. Findik to C2, Maya in C4 with Coster and other 2 Sherpas to C3.

  Oxygen used by Findik and Mrs Maya Sherpa from C3 to their high points and other Sherpas from C4 to their highpoint; all oxygen finished in C4 on descent.

  Sherpas:
    Phuri Sherpa, 1969, Patle, Everest 27/5/04
    Phurba Chhiri, 4/10/68, Kurima, Lokhim, Lhotse X2, etc, etc


expid: LHOT06106
peakid: LHOT
year: 2006
route1: W Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Roland Mattle
sponsor: Lhotse Golden Jubilee Expedition
approach: Lukla->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-29
smtdate: 2006-05-23
termdate: 2006-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 8150m due to tiredness and gastric illness
campsites: BC(29/04,5300m),C2(07/05,6300m),C3(22/05,7300m),xxx(23/05,8150m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  High point at bottom of couloir.

  Mattle left BC at 2:30 am on 22 May. He climbed to C2, where arrived at 7:30 am. He had breakfast there and carried on climbing to C3 at 9 am. It was extremely hot. When he arrived at C3 at 1 pm. He felt slightly sun-struck and had stomach problems. He slept from 2 pm till 11 pm. He left C3 at 11:30 pm for his summit push. He was feeling better but had to go to the toilet several times due to gastric problems.

  He also found it very tiring especially digging out the fixed rope, which was covered by drift snow. He turned back at bottom of couloir at 5 am as he did not think he would make it to summit. He descended to BC after dismantling C3 and C2.


expid: LHOT06107
peakid: LHOT
year: 2006
route1: W Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Jesus Gonzalez Calleja
sponsor: Lhotse Desafio Extremo
ascent1: 98th
approach: Lukla->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-13
smtdate: 2006-05-12
termdate: 2006-05-15
campsites: BC(13/04,5350m),C1(20/04,6060m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(10/05,7200m),C4(11/05,7900m),Smt(12/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Calleja and Tshering Wangchu left C4 at 2 am. They teamed up with Dawa Chhiri Sherpa from Phurte/Thamo, who was working for a Norwegian Expedition. Calleja and Dawa Chhiri were quicker than Tshering Wangchu Sherpa so they left him at about 8250m. Calleja did not want to use oxygen but was forced to as it was very cold and windy (about 130 km/h). Calleja and Dawa Chhiri summited together and stayed about 30 minutes on the summit.

  Even though it was very cloudy, the clouds lifted occasionally and Calleja could take pictures on their descent. They met Tshering Wangchu Sherpa at 8400m on his way up. Calleja and Dawa Chhiri arrived at C4 at 8:30 am. Tshering Wangchu arrived at 9:30 am; he had very cold hands and feet and remained in C4 for a while with Dawa Chhiri before they descended to C2 together.

  Calleja left C4 at 9:45 am, descended to C2 where he had some soup and carried on to base camp, where he arrived at 5:50 pm.

  He thinks that he is the first person to have C4->summit->BC in the 15 hours 50 minutes.

  Calleja and Tshering Wangchu climbed alpine-style until 100m below the summit, where they fixed 100m of rope.


expid: LHOT06108
peakid: LHOT
year: 2006
route1: W Face
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Martin Minarik
sponsor: Czechs to Lhotse
bcdate: 2006-04-15
smtdate: 2006-05-09
termdate: 2006-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 8420m due to member's death
campsites: BC(15/04,5350m),C1(21/04,6100m),C2(22/04,6400m),C3(26/04,7700m),xxx(09/05,8420m)
accidents: Kalny's fatal fall; Minarik's frostbite
agency: Iceland Trekking (Tendi)
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall - occupied only 1 night
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on West Face
  C4 at right of top of Geneva Spur
  High point at West Face Couloir

  After established C3, down to BC to rest. Left from BC on 5 May and went straight through to C3 same day; rested 1 day in c3; 7th went to C4 stayed there till evening of 8 May. Left in summit bid at about 10:00 pm and had to break trail since no one had gone ahead of them. Snow was solid and did not require them to fix any rope; left their rope at bottom of couloir. Got to 80-100m below summit in couloir, taking turns leading in deep snow in couloir, Kalny had stomach problem but insisted on pushing on to top; they agreed they would turn back at 5:00 pm; at 4:00 pm Kalny starting to hallucinate and Minark insisted they descend immediately and did 4:00 pm, he suddenly realized Kalny no longer beside him; found him in deep snow 200m below turn around point (300 linear meter below) without helmet which had left in C4. Minarik took 15 minutes to reach him; Kalny looked Ok and said he was fine only in shock. They continued down, Kalny ahead of Minarik. At about 7850m altitude Kalny asked Minarik to go ahead to C4 to make drink for him and Minarik did so, but Kalny did not come to C4. Minarik stayed in C4 not searching in night because he was tired and nowhere to look up or down. In morning 10 May Sherpas going to South Col told Minarik that Kalny was below and alive; Kalny had gotten nearly to C3 and 5 hours after Minarik reached him, he died of multiple injuries internally. Kalny no longer wearing his gloves, which must have been stolen by Sherpas. Body wrapped in bag near seracs and no help from other team to cover him. Minarik got frostbitten toes in summit push. 

  This was Kalny's first Himalayan peak but many climbs and up to 7000m in Pamirs, etc.

  When Minarik looked down towards C3 saw Kalny being given oxygen by some Sherpas.


expid: LHOT06109
peakid: LHOT
year: 2006
route1: W Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Kazufumi Watanabe
sponsor: Lhotse Golden Jubilee Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-12
smtdate: 2006-05-18
termdate: 2006-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to fresh deep snow, waist deep (not possible to continue climb alone)
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),C1(17/04,6050m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(30/04,7200m),xxx(18/05,7900m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier.

  Watanabe started from C3 at 20:00 hours of May 17. Reached 7900m at 03:00 hours of 18th. Turned around to C3 between 07:30-08:00 hours. Weather was good, no wind, not so cold. But there was deep fresh snow which made it not possible to climb. Watanabe returned to Kathmandu on May 24 and will leave on 26th. 

  Watanabe will come for north side Everest next spring.


expid: LHOT06110
peakid: LHOT
year: 2006
route1: W Face
nation: Chile
leaders: Rodrigo Jordan Fuchs
sponsor: Chilean Lhotse Expedition 2006
ascent1: 97th,99th
bcdate: 2006-04-02
smtdate: 2006-05-11
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2006-05-17
campsites: BC(02/04),C1(21/04,6100m),C2(23/04,6500m),C3(09/05,7300m),C4(10/05,7800m),Smt(11-12/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on West Face
  C4 on "turtle" at Yellow Band and bottom of couloir.

  11th May summiters left C4 3:00 am and on top 1:30 pm; Alvial, Jordan and Scott Ibanez slept in C4, Nicolas Ibanez and Meza in C3, and Lhakpa Rita and Phu Tash in C2. 11 May 7:00 pm summit party for 12 May arrived in C4 and this the reason 2 members and Sherpas went to lower camps.

  12 May summiters left C4 at 1:00 am, Becker and Varela on top at 8:00 am, Guzman and Alvial arrived 9:30 am, Ibarra and Irarrazaval at 12:00 with 2 Sherpas Palden Namgyal and Chewang Lendu.

  Oxygen: all members in C4 to top to C4 except Alvial and Olivares used none at all and "Scott" Ibanez in C3 to top to and in C3; Sherpas in C4 to top to C4.

  Lucero went to C2, then decided he had climbed enough and made no attempt to go higher.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Chewang Lendu, Phortse, 19/4/80
    Lhakpa Rita, Phortse, 4/9/71, Everest X3, etc
    Palden Namgye, Phortse, 22/9/72, Everest X2, etc
    Phu Tashi, Phortse, 18/5/73


expid: LHOT06111
peakid: LHOT
year: 2006
route1: W Face
nation: UK
leaders: Henry Todd
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Lhotse Expedition
countries: France, USA
bcdate: 2006-04-12
smtdate: 2006-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to member equipment and oxygen difficulties
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),C1(21/04,6100m),C2(28/04,6300m),C3(05/05,7380m),C4(19/05,7700m),xxx(20/05,8300m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on West Face
  C4 below couloir of West Face.

  Lhotse Expedition led by Henry Todd - Spring 2006

  Summit attempt by Casserley, Ms David, Stanford, Pemba Tshering and Gurmin/Gurmi Dorje from C4 at midnight of 19/20 May ended at 8300m at 8:30-9:00 am on the 20th. Casserley had to stop when his crampons broke. Ms David was using no oxygen during this very cold night and feared frostbite. Stanford did not have enough oxygen to go higher and return to C4 on it. The two Sherpas turned back with them. All descended to C3 or C2 on the 20th.

  Oxygen used by all in the summit party except Ms. David, who used none at all. The others used it from C4 to their high point to C4.

  Other members:

  Ferrera went into the Icefall, lost all motivation to continue his climb, and left after one week.

  Ratcliffe slipped a disc at base camp, went no higher and left after one week.

  Todd stayed at C2 throughout the climb.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Tshering, 42 years old, Pangboche
    Gurmin/Gurmi Dorje, 23/7/76, Pangboche, Everest X3, Lhotse X1, Cho Oyu X1 


expid: LHOT06113
peakid: LHOT
year: 2006
route1: W Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Om Seong-Hoan
sponsor: Korean Dream Lhotse Expedition 2006
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2006-04-05
smtdate: 2006-05-12
termdate: 2006-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to involvement in rescue work of Kwak and Lee (Everest Korean team)
campsites: BC(05/04,5400m),C1(15/04,6200m),C2(22/04,6900m),C3(06/05,7600m),C4(12/05,7900m),xxx(12/05,7900m)
accidents: None
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 at usual campsite
  C2 at usual campsite
  C3 at usual campsite
  C4 at South Col
  High point at C4.

  Joung, Kyu-Jin Lee, Seung Lee, Seo and Son all five climbers waiting for their summit bid. The team had to help in rescue work of 2 members Kwak (Miss) and Lee Sang-Bae of Korean Dream Everest Expedition from South Col. Injured Korean members were brought down to South Col by the members and Sherpas of Korean Chung-Dong 100th Anniversary Everest Expedition. The injured climbers were brought down to BC and evacuated by helicopter to Kathmandu. 

  The Lhotse expedition team returned to Kathmandu on May 25 and will leave on 29. 

  High point for leader Om and Hoon-Jae Lee was C2 on April 22.


expid: LHOT06114
peakid: LHOT
year: 2006
route1: W Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Seizou Kusakari
sponsor: Lhotse Golden Jubilee Expedition
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2006-04-11
smtdate: 2006-05-02
termdate: 2006-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to chest pains and frostbite
campsites: BC(11/04,5380m),C1(01/05,6050m),C2(02/05,6400m),xxx(02/05,6400m)
accidents: Chest pain and frostbite
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  While at C2 suffered from chest pain and symptoms of frostbite in legs. Decided to give up. The team returned to Kathmandu on May 24 and will leave on 27th.

  Sherpa:
    Mingma Dorje, aka Mingma, 1/10/77, Thamo, Everest X2


expid: LHOT06115
peakid: LHOT
year: 2006
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: John Lee
sponsor: Lhotse Golden Jubilee Expedition
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2006-04-10
smtdate: 2006-05-12
termdate: 2006-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m because never intended to summit (went along with his friend Myung-Joon)
campsites: BC(10/04,5397m),C1(24/04,6200m),C2(25/04,6600m),C3(12/05,7200m),xxx(12/05,7200m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 at top of Khumbu Icefall
  C2 in western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face.

  Lee went up to C3 on May 12 accompanying Kim (on Everest permit). Lee did not spend night at C3. He descended same day to C2 where he spent the night and next day to BC. 

  Lee waited at BC for Kim to return from Everest summit. Lee and Kim both returned to Kathmandu on May 23 and left on May 25.


expid: LHOT06112
peakid: LHOT
year: 2006
route1: W Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Cristina Piolini
sponsor: Independent climber
approach: Syangboche->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2006-05-12
smtdate: 2006-05-18
termdate: 2006-05-29
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to disappearance of gear in C3
campsites: BC(12/05,5400m),C2(13/05,6400m),C3(16/05,7400m),C4(17/05,8000m),xxx(18/05,8300m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  On 18 May Piolini left C4 at 1 am. Her Sherpa Prem Lhakpa did not go with her as he did not have the right equipment (no ice axes, old crampons). Piolini reached 8300m at 3 am but turned around as there was too much snow. That day she returned to the Italian research centre, "The Pyramid," near Lobuche. On her descent she stayed at C4 from 4 am to 8 am. She arrived at BC at 6 pm where she stayed for one hour and carried on to the Pyramid, where she arrived at 9 pm. On 28 May Piolini left the Pyramid at 5 am and ascended all the way to C3 but all her gear had disappeared from C3. She arrived there at 3 pm. She looked for her things but could not find them. She left her tent at C3 as it was broken and descended to C1 where she arrived at 7:30 pm.

  On her first summit attempt she saw Silvio Mondinelli and Marco Confortola at C3. They were on their way to C4 on their summit push.


expid: LSHR06101
peakid: LSHR
year: 2006
route1: S Ridge-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Um Hong-Gil
approach: Lukla->Namche->Khumjung->Tengboche->Pangboche->Chhukung
bcdate: 2006-03-29
smtdate: 2006-05-15
termdate: 2006-05-19
termnote: Abandoned at 8200m due to lots of snow, big serac on last face
agency: Windhorse Trekking
campsites:
  BC(29/03,5400m),C1(07/04,5900m),C2(12/04,6300m),C3(28/04,6800m),C4(30/04,7200m),C5(13/05,8200m),xxx(15/05,8200m)

routememo:
  On May 14 summit bid to put up fix rope till 8200m, came down to C5. Next day 15 May attempt for summit, but too much snow below 200m to summit and a big serac overhanging on the climbing route; not possible to tackle - it was danger of probable avalanche. Then the team of Lee, Um and Sirdar Pasang Namgyal and Gyalzen turned around to BC where the team reached at about 8 pm.

  Weather was bad all the time. Clouds, snowfall everyday for 11-12 days. It was dangerous. Um said Austrian ascent in 1970 but not sure if that was same route. 

  Pasang Rita from Thami and Pemba Rinji ran away after C2. Pemba Dorji whose father climbed SW Face of Everest two times (1985 & 1986) with Um also sent away due to his irresponsible behavior. Out of 9 Sherpa support Um had only six Sherpas at the end. The team used lots of pitons snow bars and ice screws. The route is graded at 60 X 90 degrees all the way.

  On 15th Um, Lee and two Sherpas started from C5 at 03:00 hours. Reached 8200m about 07:00 hours with oxygen then turned around to BC. Um thinks if the team was there on the mountain one week before it may had good chance to summit.

  An went up to 7700m - exhausted and gave up.
  Chung is support member who reached up to 6800m. 
  Nam too is support member and reached up to 7700m. 
  Pack is also support member and reached up to 6300m. 

  Um will be going to Nanga Parbat in winter.

  The Um team returned to Kathmandu by helicopter on May 22 and will leave on 26th.

  Sherpas to high point:
    Pasang Namgyal, Khumjung, 31/1/73, when summited (with Um) Yalung 5/05/04
      (trekking agent now says born 25/11/72, Everest X1
    Phur Gyalzen/Fur Geljen, Thami/Yilang, 16/4/70, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2, 
      Yalung Kang with Um 5/5/04


expid: MAKA06101
peakid: MAKA
year: 2006
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Anna Czerwinska
sponsor: Independent team on Makalu
ascent1: 86th
approach: Lukla by helicopter on 16 April to Makalu BC (south of Barun Pokhari)
bcdate: 2006-04-17
smtdate: 2006-05-25
smttime: 0920
termdate: 2006-04-28
campsites: BC(17/04,5600m),C1(02/05,6600m),C2(12/05,7400m),C3(23/05,7600m),Biv(24/05,8200m),Smt(25/05)
accidents: Natkanski throat infection; both members cerebral edema
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  BC at same site as 3 Italian teams
  C1 on steep section below Makalu La
  C2 on Makalu La.

  First trekked in Khumbu to acclimatize. Had big snowfall after as BC and camped at 6400m and 6500m before established C1 at 6600m because of deep snow and heavy loads but wanted to camp as high as possible. After established C2 down to BC to rest, by now Natkanski developed throat infection. 18 May to C1 and 19th down to BC because of snow conditions. 21 May all up to C1; 22nd to C2; 23rd moved to 7600m. 24 May 2 members and Tamang left early to join Italians 1 Sherpa rope fixing. 2 members left 5:00 am taking oxygen and started using it at about 7800-7900m but Natkanski slow and Czerwinska went up alone and at 5:00 pm realized couldn't go to top that day and decided to biv at 8200m (no biv equipment - very cold) while Natkanski reached 8000m at 6:00 pm and down to C3 and "Sherpas" in C3 too. Czerwinska did not use oxygen now because mask prevented her seeing route. 5:30 am up following trail of yesterday's climbers and passed what had thought was top but not top so on to end of fixed rope and on to top. Convinced was top because tracks ended and no place to go higher; on top were pieces of colored paper (no poles or oxygen bottles). She was hallucinating but is sure it was top, was alone here at 9:20 am. Down to C3 at 8:00 pm. 26th to C1. 27th all to BC. 28th lower BC south of Barun Pokhari and back to Tumlingtar to fly out to KTM.

  Natkanski was hallucinating at C3 24-5 May, thought he was in BC. Problem like Anna's was oxygen starvation (cerebral edema).

  "Sherpa" was Tshering Tamang, 25/5/74, Gorakhama, Solu, no 8000ers


expid: MAKA06102
peakid: MAKA
year: 2006
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Daniele Nardi
sponsor: Italian Makalu Expedition 2005
ascent1: 85th w/other Italians
approach: Tumlingtar->Makalu BC
bcdate: 2006-04-03
smtdate: 2006-05-24
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2006-05-27
campsites: BC(03/04,4795m),ABC(03/04,5500m),C1(24/04,6300m),C2(14/05,7300m),C3(15/05,7500m),Smt(24/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 4795m
  C3 on first summit push.

  Team left C3 at 5 am on 24 May. The conditions were difficult, a lot of snow; they had to break trail; the weather was good. Nardi turned back at 8200m due to chest infection. After summiting summt team descended to C3, where they arrived at 11 am. They said the conditions were very difficult this year. A lot of snow prevented them from going up to C2 before 14 May. 

  Their first summit push on 15 May was abandoned due to bad weather. 

  Nardi spent one week in Kathmandu at the end of April due to chest infection. He recovered but it came back during the summit push.


expid: MAKA06103
peakid: MAKA
year: 2006
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Renzo Benedetti
sponsor: Italian team on Makalu
ascent1: 85th w/other Italians
approach: Lukla, by helicopter to Makalu BC
bcdate: 2006-04-24
smtdate: 2006-05-24
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2006-05-26
campsites: BC(24/04,5000m),ABC(26/04,5400m),C1(02/05,6400m),C2(12/05,7400m),C3(22/05,7600m),Smt(24/05)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Summit team (and Mario Panzeri, Daniele Bernasconi, Mario Vielmo from other teams) left C3 at 4 am. Conditions were difficult, a lot of snow, they had to break trail. Benedetti and Temba Wangdi Sherpa arrived at summit at 4 pm; Giovanetti arrived at 6 pm with Mario Vielmo. Benedetti and Sherpa arrived back at C3 at 9 pm. Giovanetti got back at 3 am on 25 May; he was very slow as he was on his own and it was very dark. But Weather was calm and clear. 

  De Leo got to C3 on 23 May. He abandoned climb as he was exhausted. Returned to ABC on 24 May on 24 May. 

  Sala also got to C3 on 23 May, but abandoned climb due to fatigue. He'd been having stomach problems for 2 weeks.


expid: MAKA06104
peakid: MAKA
year: 2006
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Mario Vielmo
sponsor: Italian team on Makalu
ascent1: 85th w/other Italians
bcdate: 2006-04-13
smtdate: 2006-05-24
smttime: 1815
termdate: 2006-05-27
campsites: BC(13/04,4800m),ABC(17/04,5600m),C1(27/04,6400m),C2(12/05,7400m),C3(15/05,7600m),Smt(24/05)
accidents: Nothing serious but Moretti throat infection and Mingma Nuru stomach problem
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at south of Barun Pokhari
  ABC at foot of Chago Glacier
  C1  at bottom of steep section of Chago Glacier
  C2  at Makalu La
  C3  at Nw Face on rock pillar.

  2 members went no higher than BC: Moretti got throat infection and left after 10 days; Peretti left after, one week: tired and his style is to climb without shoes, so not possible to climb Makalu. This left four climbing members.

  On 24 May left C3 for top: 4 climbing members plus Mingma Nuru and Lhakpa Sherpa. Zambaldi turned back at 8200m because he was hungry at noon; down to ABC at 9:00 pm. Bertole turned back at 8300m at 5:30 pm because it was now too late to continue; back to C3. Ferro also dropped back because it was too late to go on; he stopped ascent at 8200m at 4:30pm and down to C3. Only Vielmo went to top and back to C3 at midnight. Both Sherpas had turned back: Mingma Nuru at just 7700m with stomach ache and Lhakpa just above 8000m tired (had stopped using oxygen).

  Only Sherpas used oxygen: Mingma Nuru in C3 during night of 23rd and Lhakpa from 7800m to 7900m.

  Sherpas:
    Mingma Nuru, 18/7/79, Khumjung, Everest 2/6/05
    Lhakpa, 7/5/65, Makalu-9, Cho Oyu 21/9/03

  Sherpas not satisfactory, especially Mingma Nuru who got very angry at Vielmo for no known reason and tried to attack Vielmo several times with a bottle, rocks and ice axes.


expid: MANA06101
peakid: MANA
year: 2006
route1: NE Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Peter Guggemos
sponsor: Manaslu Golden Jubilee Expedition
approach: By helicopter to Samagaon
bcdate: 2006-04-07
smtdate: 2006-04-30
termdate: 2006-05-01
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to cold/cough and beginning of frostbite
campsites: BC(07/04,4800m),C1(16/04,5800m),C2(22/04,6350m),C3(29/04,6800m),xxx(30/04,7500m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  BC at usual camp site.

  Guggemos and Gelu left C3 on April 29 at 21:30 hours, reached 7500m at about 02:30 hours of April 30. It was  too cold; started coughing; symptoms of frostbite, so then turned around to BC where they reached around 14:00 hours. Guggemos said that when he reaches above 7000m, cough starts due to thin air. 

  Guggemos will not be climbing any more. Guggemos returned to Kathmandu by helicopter on May 3 and leaves Kathmandu on May 4 in the morning.


expid: MANA06102
peakid: MANA
year: 2006
route1: NE Face
nation: Romania
leaders: Romeo Dunca
sponsor: Manaslu Golden Jubilee Expedition
ascent1: 85th w/Spanish
bcdate: 2006-04-07
smtdate: 2006-04-29
smttime: 1115
termdate: 2006-05-01
campsites: BC(07/04,4840m),C1(15/04,5750m),C2A(25/04,6850m),C2B(28/04,6950m),Smt(27/04)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 4840m (by helicopter KTM/Samagaon 2 April with Ochao)

  Colibasanu always climbed up mountain with Ochoa. 29 April Colibasanu to top with Ochoa and Egocheaga and roped to them.

  Dunca to C1 on 27 April, 28 April to C2B. Dunca 28/29th alone in summit bid; reached 8012m at 9:30 am 29th; now scared because alone, not a climber and never before above 2400m. Dunca left plateau (7400m) at 5:00 am and at his high point at 4:30 am and turned back because scared by being alone; at 1:30 pm in C2B, in BC 21:00 hours. Had put crampons on for first time in his life 21 April. At 5:00 am at plateau (7400m) and now could see where he had climbed at night, was astonished at what he had done in dark, even without proper ice tools. Dunca was Colibasanu's backer and in return for financial support, Dunca told Colibasanu that he had to go on the climb too.

  Ochoa - Dunca reached 7600m only, not 8012m, according to Ochoa's calculations.


expid: MANA06103
peakid: MANA
year: 2006
route1: NE Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Steffen Kiefer
sponsor: Adventure Train Manaslu Expedition
approach: Arughat->Namrung->Samagaon
bcdate: 2006-04-12
smtdate: 2006-05-17
termdate: 2006-05-19
termnote: Stopped at 8125m (fore-summmit) due to too much difficulty on summit ridge
accidents: Pulmonary edema by Steffen Kiefer at 7050m
agency: Shiva Treks
campsites:
  BC(12/04,4800m),C1(20/04,5700m),C2(27/04,6400m),C3(08/05,7050m),C4(16/05,7400m),ForeSmt(17/05,8125m)

routememo:
  C3 at 7050m near serac
  High point at beginning of summit ridge.

  Richter and Weist left C4 at 4 am. Weather was clear and calm. There was a lot of snow and they had to break trail. When they arrived at 8125m they saw that the summit ridge was too difficult for them, too steep and too much ice. They turned back at 1:30 pm and descended to C4, where they arrived at 4 pm. They descended to BC on 18 May.

  Peter and Steffen Kiefer reached 7500m on 9 May (with Weist). But turned back due to bad weather. They spent the night at C3. Steffen Kiefer developed pulmonary edema during the night (his lungs gurgled). The three (Weist, Peter and Steffen Kieffer) left C3 at 7 am on 10 May and descended to BC. So they led him down on a rope. It took them 9 hours to get to BC. He stayed at BC on 11 May and descended to Samagaon on 12 May with Schoene.

  Peter Kiefer left BC on 16 May; he met up with Steffen and Schoene in Samagaon and trekked out via Larkya La.

  Schoene got to 6500m on 28 April. But turned back due to exhaustion; he descended to C2, stayed the night and descended to BC the next day. He tried another ascent on 4 May but only only got to C1, stayed the night and descended to BC the day, where he stayed until he descended to BC with Steffen Kiefer.

  Richter and Weist told the Ministry of Tourism that they did go to the summit because the trekking agent asked them to say so for publicity purposes. [Richter and Weist said back in Germany they only reached the fore-summit.] 


expid: MANA06104
peakid: MANA
year: 2006
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Chieko Shimada
sponsor: Golden Jubilee Manaslu Expedition
approach: By helicopter to Samagaon
bcdate: 2006-04-15
smtdate: 2006-05-17
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2006-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at fore-summit
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(15/04,4700m),C1(23/04,5600m),C2(30/04,6200m),C3(15/05,6800m),C4(16/05,7300m),ForeSmt(17/05,8125m)

routememo:
  Shimada, Kusang and Jangbu left C4 at 04:30 hours, summited at 10:30 hours, stayed on summit 15 minutes, descended to C2 where they reached at 18:00 hours. Next day to BC. Summit day weather was very good, no wind, no clouds, sunny day. 30 minutes later Russians and Germans reached to summit without oxygen. Sue Fear who was also trying to reach summit without oxygen gave up.

  When Shimada left BC Fear and Konishi, member of Ken Noguchi's cleaning expedition were at C1 to try for summit. Shimada returned to Kathmandu from Arughat by local bus at about 22:00 hours on 30th. Shimada will leave Kathmandu in a week time. According to Shimada it was late to start in May. Snow started melting, crevasses getting wider. She thinks if she started in April it would have been much better. The original plan was to begin climbing in April, but she was kept waiting in Kathmandu for 10 days due to late arrival of Junko Tabei. During the acclimatization period when Shimada and Taniguchi were on C3 there was an avalanche between C1 and C2.

  Fixed rope was put up only up to C4.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Kusang Dorje, July 58, Makalu-9, Manaslu X1
    Jangbu, 28/4/59, Tapting, Everest X4


  Junko Tabei - 24 May 2006

  Shimada arrived Kathmandu 6 April, but was stuck in Kathmandu because of general strike; so instead of trekking to BC, she had to fly on 14 April to Samagaon on helicopter. She was very difficult woman demanding all Sherpas' attention, thinking only of her needs.


  Eberhard Jurgalski - 11 Jan 2010

  The two Germans [Richter and Weist] stated, that all seven climbers on that day were only below the fore-summit. The "summit photos" from Sergei Bogomolov were identified by Ralf Dujmovits as on the rocks of the fore-summit!


expid: MANA06106
peakid: MANA
year: 2006
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Ken Noguchi
sponsor: Ken Noguchi Manaslu Cleaning Expedition
ascent1: 87th
approach: By helicopter to Samagaon
bcdate: 2006-04-21
smtdate: 2006-05-16
smttime: 1115
termdate: 2006-05-22
campsites: BC(21/04,4750m),C1(24/04,5700m),C2(07/05,6400m),C3(15/05,7200m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at usual campsite.

  Miss Taniguchi, Pemba Dorji and Ang Kazi left C3 at 04:00 hours on May 16, reached to summit at 11:15 hours, stayed at summit till 12:30 hours, descended to C2 at 17:00 hours. Next day to BC. Weather, little cloudy and windy in the morning and rest of day it was very nice. On May 17th, some members of International Expedition, Germans, and Shimada summited. Another member of Expedition Konishi reached up to 6800m on May 26th; it was very windy and Konishi gave up climbing. 

  The expedition collected 200 kgs of garbage from and around BC of Manaslu and about 4800 kg from Samagaon. The expedition could not undertake cleaning work on the mountain due to heavy snow conditions. Hiraga, Noguchi and Taniguchi returned to Kathmandu on May 24 by helicopter. Hiraga and Noguchi will leave Kathmandu on May 29, Taniguchi to leave on June 1. Konishi returned to Kathmandu on May 31 and leaves on the June 2.

  Pemba Dorje Sherpa (3 times Everest summiter) is from Beding, 29/4/77, and speed climbed in 2004 (8 hours 10 minutes to Everest summit). 

  Ang Kazi climbed Manaslu, his first 8000er. He is 28 years old, Sisuwakhola, Sankhuwasabha district (Makalu area).


expid: MANA06107
peakid: MANA
year: 2006
route1: NE Face
nation: Russia
leaders: Sergei Bogomolov
sponsor: Manaslu Golden Jubilee Expedition 2006
countries: Georgia
approach: By helicopter to Samagaon (5 April)
bcdate: 2006-04-07
smtdate: 2006-05-17
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2006-05-19
termnote: Abandoned at fore-summit
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
campsites:
  BC(07/04,4700m),C1(10/04,5650m),C2(15/04,6300m),C3(15/05,6900m),C4(16/05,7400m),ForeSmt(17/05,8125m)

routememo:
  Near other team's camps
  C2 at below (4 hrs to Col).

  Of 42 days at mountain, only 5-6 days of good weather. 22 April slept in 1st C3 at 6750m; 22 April to 7400m, just below summit plateau and slept there at C2 and wanted to go to top but strong winds forced retreat instead; on 24th and down to BC. Bad weather for long time. 6 May from BC to C1, C2 on 7th, 8th in new C3 at 6950m at North Col. 9th from new C3 to 7700m, big storm down to C2 and 10th to BC. 14 May up to C5, 15th to C3 at (all at 6900m, 16th to 7500m to C4. 17th 4:00 am up to top at 11:30 am (Bogomolov) and 12:15 (Tortladze with 2 Germans from Kiefer expedition) and down to sleep at 7500m again at 4:00 pm. 18th to BC in bad snowstorm below C2 (deep snow, fog and strong wind) and lost way, so arrived BC at 5:30 pm.


  Eberhard Jurgalski - 11 Jan 2010

  The two Germans [Richter and Weist] stated, that all seven climbers on that day were only below the fore-summit. The "summit photos" from Sergei Bogomolov were identified by Ralf Dujmovits as on the rocks of the fore-summit!


expid: MANA06108
peakid: MANA
year: 2006
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Inaki Ochoa
sponsor: Manaslu Golden Jubilee Expedition
ascent1: 85th w/Romanian
bcdate: 2006-04-07
smtdate: 2006-04-29
smttime: 1045
termdate: 2006-05-01
othersmts: Permit for Dhaulagiri I
campsites: BC(07/04,4840m),C1(15/04,5750m),C2A(25/04,6850m),C2B(28/04,6950m),Smt(29/04)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  After our 7 April non-stop snowfall for 72 hours 9-10 April and 13 April 36 hours non-stop snowfall, so C1 occupation delayed. Again weather bad and had to work to keep track open. Summit push from BC on 28 April at 6:00 am, reached C2, moved it to 6950m at 11:30 am and stayed  there 14 hours; decided not to put a C3 at 7400-7500m because waited to take advantage of good weather. Left C2 at 1:30 am of 29th and got to top at 10:45 am after having to break trail from 6900m to 7400m (to plateau which was already swept clear by winds); waited at top for 1/2 hour waiting for Romanian Colibasanu to come up. Ochoa to C1 packing up gear while Egocheaga to BC. From C2 to top climbed roped together.

  25 May 2006 - Ochoa tried to reach BC for his Dhaulagiri I climb, and he broke trail through deep snow to get there with one porter, but porter balked & said had been hit by lightning part way there and Ochoa abandoned the idea: thought no one else would be on the mountain so he was too late. Never reached BC.


expid: MANA06109
peakid: MANA
year: 2006
route1: NE Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Ernst Marti
sponsor: Swiss Manaslu Expedition 2006
approach: Arughat->Samagaon
bcdate: 2006-05-07
smtdate: 2006-05-20
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2006-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at fore-summit
campsites: BC(07/05,4700m),C1(14/05,5450m),C2(18/05,6170m),C3(19/05,6500m),ForeSmt(20/05,8125m)
accidents: Gallati got frostbite on two fingers on right hand
agency: Iceland Trekking (Dorje)
routememo:
  Summit team left C3 at midnight. Weather was clear and calm. Snow conditions very good at about 7700m. They deposited their rucksacks. Pemba and Marti Ernst carried straight on, but Gallati rested there for a while. Ernst Marti and Pemba summited at 2 pm, spent 20 minutes on summit and descended to C3, where they arrived at 4:30 pm. Marti is a bit confused about the summit. They went up to the highest point on the right side. He thinks the "double summit" on the left side is 20m higher. There were no prayer flags on their summit; there were tracks to their summit though.

  In the meantime Gallati carried on to the summit and arrived at the same summit at 4 pm.
  When he descended it had clouded over. He missed C3 and descended to C3 where he arrived at 7:30 pm. C2 was deserted, no gas for cooking. He stayed at C2 until Ernst Marti and Pemba arrived there at 10 am on 21 May. They descended to BC from C1 on skies, which they had deposited at the camp.

  Leuzinger got to C2 on 15 May, but did not stay the night; he did not climb back up as he was feeling exhausted.

  Werner Marti got to C2 on 24 May, but did not stay the night; he abandoned the climb as he was feeling too weak and exhausted.

  Gallati got frostbite on two fingers on right hand. He has not seen a doctor but thinks he'll be able to keep his fingers.

  Pemba Tamang, 31/5/72, Taksindu


expid: MANA06110
peakid: MANA
year: 2006
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Junko Tabei
sponsor: Golden Jubilee Manaslu Expedition
approach: By helicopter to Samagaon
bcdate: 2006-04-21
smtdate: 2006-05-18
termdate: 2006-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 6950m due to bad conditions and tired Sherpas
campsites: BC(21/04,4600m),C1(25/04,5600m),C2(16/05,6500m),C3(18/05,6750m),xxx(18/05,6950m)
accidents: Ang Tshering 1st stage of altitude sickness at C3
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at next to others camp
  C2 at next to others camp
  C3 by Sherpas only.

  Very dangerous to go above C3 because deep snow (waist-deep) and Sherpas extremely tired. 18 May to C3 from C2 both members carried one oxygen bottle themselves because Man Bahadur and Ang Tshering too tired from constantly moving up and down with Mrs Shimada, who was very demanding of service especially Man Bahadur, whom she understood was her personal "Sherpa." At C3 site, left Man Bahadur and Ang Tshering who stayed in C3 while Tabei and Hiraki went down to C2 to sleep and to return with 2 Noguchi Sherpas they thought would go up with them, but next evening learned these 2 Sherpas not able to do so. Next morning 19th, Man Bahadur and Ang Tshering left C3 with all gear to C2 and climb finished because 2 Sherpas had assured Japanese not going to continue and the other 2 were with Shimada. 

  Shimada a problem for Tabei and Hiraki demanding priority for Sherpas' assistance though all 3 Japanese paid $2600 each to trekking agent for a personal Sherpa.

  "Sherpas" to high point
    Chhiri, aka Ang Chhiring, 2/6/73, Thamo, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2
    Man Bahadur Tamang, aka Gopal, 1959, Jaidu, Salleri-5, Solu, Everest X4


expid: MANA06111
peakid: MANA
year: 2006
route1: NE Face
route2: NNE Face (variation)
nation: Kazakhstan
leaders: Denis Urubko
sponsor: Manaslu Golden Jubilee Expedition
ascent1: 84th
ascent2: 86th
bcdate: 2006-04-07
smtdate: 2006-04-25
smttime: 1145
termdate: 2006-05-11
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
campsites:
  BC(07/04,4700m),ABC(12/04,5600m),Biv1(22/04,6300m),Biv2(23/04,6900m),Biv3(24/04,7400m),Smt(25/04);Biv1(04/05,6000m),Biv2(05/05,6500m),Biv3(06/05,7200m),Biv4(07/05,7500m),Smt(08/05)

routememo:
  BC  at normal BC site
  ABC at normal C1 site.

  From Camp at 5600m went alpine-style because impossible for 2 climbers with their own ideas of route to agree with other teams on mountain at same time. Because of deep snow in classical route and made no fixed camps, First biv made only on 22nd because of bad weather (heavy snowfall). Left Biv3 at 4:15 am and on top 11:45 am and down to Biv3 3:00 pm and slept there. 26th at BC at noon (12:00 hours). Then to Samagaon (3600m) to rest.

  Left for BC on 1 May. 4 May from BC at 2:00 am to ascend new route - plan was to climb SW Face but changed plans because in deep snow difficult and dangerous to be the only climbers there, and also could have problem about the permit for this route. So instead made new route on NE Face well to east of classical route in 4 bivouacs: 1st biv at 6000m on 4 May, 5 May 2nd biv 6500m, 3rd biv at 7200m on 6 May, 4th biv at 7500m on 7 May and top on 8 May; left 4th biv at 6:30 am, difficult rocks above till snow couloir where reached 3:30-4:00 pm at 7750m, at top 5:30-6:00 pm. Now down first ascent route and biv at 7600m 8:00 pm. 9 May 6:30 am left biv and reached BC 12:30 pm (13:30 hours) after 3 days of no food, but others gave drink and Chieko Shimada gave liquid "energy food."

  "It was my dream to make new route in the Himalaya."


expid: MANA06112
peakid: MANA
year: 2006
route1: NE Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Dirk Grunert
sponsor: German on Manaslu
approach: Arughat->Jagat
bcdate: 2006-04-21
smtdate: 2006-05-17
termdate: 2006-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to bad weather, high winds
campsites: BC(21/04,4800m),C1(26/04,5700m),C2(27/04,6400m),C3(16/05,6900m),C4(17/05,7400m),xxx(17/05,7400m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Grunert reached C4 on 17 May. However the weather was bad and he decided to wait for his summit bid for another day. He was together with Sue Fear and her Sherpa Bishnu Gurung. The weather did not improve and they decided to descend to BC on 19 May. They left C4 at 10 am and arrived at BC at 7 pm. He left BC. The next day and arrived in Kathmandu on 24 May.


expid: MANA06105
peakid: MANA
year: 2006
route1: NE Face
nation: Australia
leaders: Susan Erica Fear
sponsor: Golden Jubilee Manaslu Expedition 2006
ascent1: 91st
approach: By helicopter to Samagaon
bcdate: 2006-04-15
smtdate: 2006-05-28
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2006-05-30
campsites: BC(15/04,4700m),C1(21/04,5700m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(05/6800m),C4(18?/05,7450m),Smt(28/05)
accidents: Sue Fear fell into crevasse
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at usual campsite
  C1 at usual campsite
  C2 at usual campsite
  C3 at usual campsite.

  Fear and Bishnu Gurung started from C4 (7400m) at 03:00 hours on May 28; both reached the summit at 10:30 hours, stayed on summit for 30 minutes. The weather on summit was less windy but cloudy. While descending at 7800m, Bishnu heard a big noise and saw Fear fall into a crevasse head down, since they both were on the same main rope, Bishnu immdediately used his safety and put brake with his ice axe. For two hours Bishnu tried all he could do to pull Fear out of the crevasse, but no success. Bishnu did not get any response from Fear. During the course slowly and gradually the crevasse started getting wider and wider and Bishnu who was totally exhausted, tied the rope on his axe anchor and descended to C1 (5600m) at 21:00 hours. Then Bishnu radioed to BC to the Sherpa staff of Ken Noguchi Manaslu Cleaning Expedition 2006. Bishnu reached BC on May 29 at 14:30 hours. Bishnu flown in by helicopter from Samagaon on May 31.

  Bir Bahadur Gurung, aka Bishnu/Vishnu, 20/9/67, Tharanpani VDC, Tanho, Cho Oyu 5/10/02


  Email Billi Bierling to Hawley (word by word translation of Grunert's email of 17 July 2006

  "Sue and Bishnu reached C3 on 15th May and C4 on 16th May. She told me that they tried to go for summit on May 17th but did not feel well and came back to C4, where I met her on the 17th. We wanted to give it another try on the 18th May but the weather had turned bad (storm). As the weather did not improve on 19th May we decided to descend. Bishnu and I descended to BC the same day and Sue stayed at C2 and descended to BC on 20th May. I left BC for Kathmandu on 20th May.

  Email of 14th July

  Sue had her camps in the same places as I did apart from C3. She had her camp at 6800m on a little plateau (official C3). I had my camp at 6900m in a crevasse. Here are the altitudes of Sue's camps:

  C1: 5700m
  C2: 6400m
  C3: 6800m
  C4: 7450m

  All camps were set up by Bishnu. I ascended together with Sue twice (BC to C1 and C1 to C2) and we descended together from C4. Well, when I say we ascended together I mean we ascended at the same day. We then met up at the camp and we had a chat. Sue, Bishnu and I descended together from C4. Bishnu and I descended to BC and Sue stayed the night at C2 and descended to BC the next day.


expid: PASA06101
peakid: PASA
year: 2006
route1: S Pillar-S Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Hans Kammerlander
sponsor: Kammerlander Pasang Lhamu Chuli Expedition
approach: Thami, up Bhote Kosi->Arya, up Bhote Kosi Glacier->Nangpa Glacier
bcdate: 2006-04-30
smtdate: 2006-05-11
termdate: 2006-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 7030m due to fatal accident
campsites: BC(30/04,5250m),C1(04/05,5950m),xxx(7030m)
accidents: Nothing except fatal accident
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at southwest of mountain on Nangpa Glacier
  C1 at icefield below pillar
  High point at snow field above pillar.

  Pillar not dangerous from rock avalanche, which fell on both sides of it, which is knife-edged, but not enough ice or snow to glue loose rock to mountain. "Pillar is very beautiful." High point at start of snow field of south face reached. 5th 11 May fixing rope above C1 and resting days in BC (7-8 May in BC and 9 returned to C1). 10 May cloudy and light snowfall so stayed in C1. 11th May 4:00 am left C1 fixing rope, 3:00 pm arrived at snow; 3:30 pm turned down to rest in BC. At about 6800m at 4:00 pm Brugger leading descent while Kammerlander made movie and was 15 minutes behind. Brugger fell probably due to carabiner breaking - fell at least 1100m down face east of pillar and probably into crevasse; has not seen body from C1 through binoculars (in helicopter too cloudy to see any thing). Kammerlander to BC 7:00 pm same day. 

  He is deeply offended by Tourism Ministry's classifying Brugger's body, lying somewhere on the mountain, as rubbish and therefore refusing refund of rubbish deposit ($2000). Kammerlander wants to return to mountain next spring and make small memorial to Brugger.


expid: PLNG06101
peakid: PLNG
year: 2006
route1: E Ridge (Cho Rapsek)
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Kim Logan
sponsor: Strata Title Expedition 2006 to Palung Ri
approach: Thami, up Bhote Kosi->Nangpa Glacier->Dzampa on Nangpa Glacier
bcdate: 2006-05-03
termdate: 2006-05-11
termnote: Did not attempt Palung Ri (it was in Tibet)
othersmts: Climbed Cho Rapsek
campsites: BC(03/05,5150m),ABC(07/05,5300m),C1(08/05,5700m),Cho Rapsek Smt(09/05,6550m)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  BC  at south of Nangpa Glacier
  ABC at north of ABC 
  C1  at Nangpa La.

  Climbing permit given by Nepalese government, but peak is in Tibet; made no attempt on it, but went to Cho Rapsek 6550m near Nangpa La.

  When reached Nangpa La on 5 May found border pillar and saw Cho Oyu BC tents and knew Palung Ri in Tibet. 9 May went to climb point 6210m west of Nangpa La with Ang Phurba. 3 men climbed mountain via east ridges a rock ridges, then snow on top, a single climb for experts; left C1 at 4:00 am on top at 10:30 am and back to C1 at 1:00 pm and down to ABC same day. BC on 10 May, 11 May to Lonak.

  Their Sherpa (Ang Phurba, Thami, 1961, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2) says mountain they climbed is called Cho Rapsek. On Schneider map, it is 6210m, high but team say it is 6550m high. He told New Zealanders he doubted Palung Ri was in Nepal; he was on first ascent of Cho Aui/Jasamba.

  "It is morally unacceptable" that Nepal govt. gave permit and charged fee to climb "a Chinese mountain" and Chapman-Smith demanded a refund from Tourism Ministry.


expid: PUMO06101
peakid: PUMO
year: 2006
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Jay Reilly
sponsor: SummitClimb Pumori Expedition 2006
countries: Canada, Germany, Netherlands, New Zealand, S Africa, Sweden, UK, USA
approach: Pangboche->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2006-03-10
smtdate: 2006-03-24
termdate: 2006-03-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to non-fatal accident
campsites: BC(10/03,5300m),ABC(12/03,5700m),C1(15/03,6100m),C2(20/03,6500m),xxx(24/03,6900m)
accidents: Tenji, Lhakpa Chhiri and Jonsson fell at 6900m
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  C2 at East Col
  High point at 9:30 am on East Ridge

  Lhakpa Chhiri and Tenji were fixing rope at 6900m when Tenji lost his balance and fell, dragging Lhakpa Chhiri down with him. The fall caused two of the anchors to be pulled out. Jonsson was climbing below and got pulled down due to the impact. Tenji and Lhakpa fell about 400m; Jonsson was able to stop himself after about 5m; he sprained his ankle. 

  Tenji stopped inside a small crevasse about 6550m; he was dislocated hip and shoulder. Tenji was lowered to C2 by Reilly and Phuri. There he was wrapped up and lowered down to C1, where they arrived at 2 am on 25 March. The next day (25 March) he walked with assistance to intermediate camp and he arrived at BC on the 27th. 

  Lhakpa broke part of his knee. He was also lowered down from the site of the accident. He followed the same time frame as Tenji on his return to Kathmandu. He was kept in hospital for a few days.

  Jonsson stayed at C2 with Karlsson on 24 March but was picked up by Lhakpa Kongle on 25 March and helped down to C1. On 26 March Lhakpa Kongle and Phuri Sherpa helped him down to intermediate camp and on 27 March to BC.

  All three injured climbers were picked up by an army helicopter from BC on 27 March.

  Injuries:
    Jonsson: sprained ankle
    Tenji:   dislocated right hip and shoulder  
    Lhakpa:  broken knee

  Other members:

  Fitscen climbed to ABC but abandoned the climb as it was too hard for her on 23 March.

  Radun only got to Lobuche, where he felt the start of pulmonary edema and descended on 8 March.

  Vulk, Reisinger, Segelstrom, Fordberg were on their way to C1 when the accident happened (24 March). Vulk and Reisinger carried on to C1 and stayed the night; they descended to BC the next day. Segelstrom and Fordberg turned back and stayed the night at ABC.

  Sherpas:
  - Tenji Sherpa          - Patle/Okhaldhunga - 1982, Everest Spring 2004 and 2005
  - Lhakpa Chhiri Sherpa  - Kurima/Solukhumbu - 1964, Everest X2
  - Lhakpa Karmu Sherpa   - Patle/Okhaldhunga - 1978, no 8000ers
  - Lhakpa "Kongle" Sherpa- Patle/Okhaldhunga - 24/1/64, Everest Spring 05
  - Phuri Sherpa          - Patle/Okhaldhunga - 1969, Everest N Spring 04
  - Nima Doma Sherpa      - Ghat/Solukhumbu   - 1986, no 8000ers
  - Ang Shera Sherpa      - Patle/Okhaldhunga - 1976, no 8000ers

  Jay Reilly left BC on 30 March with Lhakpa Karmu. All remaining members left on 29 March for Namche.


  Australian Pumori expedition - Spring 2006
  Leader Jay Reilly, 2 May 2006

  The climb was abandoned immediately after the accident on 24 March because of the effort and the manpower needed to evacuate the injured Sherpas. After three days' effort, members and uninjured Sherpas were exhausted.

  There are two explanations of how the accident happened. One is that Tenji lost his balance and pulled the others with him. The other and more probable one is that Jansson pulled out a snowbar anchor and the Sherpas fell as a result of the Swede's fall.

  The normal route via the SE Face to east ridge is becoming increasingly dangerous from avalanching and more and more technical with, for example, newly-opened large crevasses across the East Ridge. The safer route is the South Ridge.


expid: PUMO06102
peakid: PUMO
year: 2006
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Tim McCall
sponsor: Oregon to Pumori
approach: Lukla->Lobuche->Chhukung->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-10
smtdate: 2006-04-23
termdate: 2006-04-25
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to not enough fixed ropes, bad snow conditions
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (by Knoll and a member of trekking team)
campsites: BC(10/04,5200m),ABC(12/04,5700m),xxx(23/04,6000m)
accidents: Michele McCall had bad cough (treated in Pheriche)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at lake side.

  Knoll, Leavens and Tim McCall reached up to 6000m on April 23. The expedition had to be called off due to lack of ropes, bad snow conditions, snowfall and weak team. Michele McCall and Roddy could only climb up to 5800m. Roddy was not acclimatized well. Only three people could not continue climbing. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on April 30. Knoll and McCalls leaving on May 6. Leavens and Roddy left on May 2.


expid: PUMO06103
peakid: PUMO
year: 2006
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Camillo Della Vedoua
sponsor: Nepal Expedition Pumori 2006
approach: Lukla->Lobuche->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-21
smtdate: 2006-04-21
termdate: 2006-04-25
campsites: BC(21/04,5300m)
agency: Amuse Treks
routememo:
  Did no climbing above base camp.

  The team waited for four days in BC expecting improvement in the weather, which remained bad;  then they trek to Gyoko, Kalapattar and Everest BC. The team returned to Kathmandu on May 3 and will leave Nepal on May 6.


expid: PUMO06104
peakid: PUMO
year: 2006
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Fabio Meraldi
sponsor: Un Songnare Longo 3 Cime (Ama Dablam, Pumori, Lhotse)
approach: Ama Dablam BC (Pangboche)
bcdate: 2006-05-09
smtdate: 2006-05-18
termdate: 2006-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to a huge 5-meter crevasse
othersmts: Climbed Ama Dablam (AMAD-061-09) and Lhotse (LHOT-061-01)
campsites: BC(09/05,5290m),xxx(11/05,6900m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  On 15 May team climbed to 5900m (C2) to have a look at the route. It took them 5 hours to C2 and 3 hours to go back to BC. 

  On summit push on 18 May the team started at 2:30 am, got to C2 at 5 am. Above C2 at 6100m they crossed a 3-meter crevasse by sliding on a fixed rope that was already there. They clipped in with their harnesses and slid across. When they got to 6700m the weather closed in and they dug an ice cave as they thought they might stay the night. They waited 1-1/2 hours till 10:30 am and weather cleared. They carried on but were stopped by a 5-meter crevasse at 6900m. They looked for another way for about one hour and decided that it was too dangerous. They went to BC, where they arrived at 5 pm.


expid: PYRM06101
peakid: PYRM
year: 2006
route1: NW slope-NE Ridge-Sphinx Smt-NE Smt
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Andrej Stremfelj
sponsor: Slovenian Pathivara Expedition
approach: Taplejung->Ghunsa->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-11
smtdate: 2006-04-29
termdate: 2006-05-03
othersmts: Climbed Sphinx (SPHN-061-01); climbed Janak Chuli (JANK-061-01)
campsites: BC(11/04,5140m),ABC(15/04,5445m),C1(23/04,6200m),Sphinx Smt(28-29/04,6825m),NE Smt(29/04,7090m)
accidents: None
agency: Wilderness Experience
primid: SPHN06101
routememo:
  BC  at Pangpema (Erpic & Plevnik arrive BC 15 April)
  ABC at southwest end of West Langpo Glacier
  C1  at below Langpo Col (Langpa La)
  High point at NE Summit.

  To acclimatize Zalokar, Stremfelj, Mihalic and Markovic climbed 6000m peak between Pangpema and Drohmo Peak on 13 April.

  Made an ABC because 25 km from BC to C1; was at start of West Langpo Glacier. 24 April went to Langpo Col at 6400m but later route avoided this col and joined NE Ridge at 6600m. From C1, Mihalic on 28 April alone tried to reach Pathivara's summit (via Sphinx summit at 6825m), but ridge knife-edged and avalanche prone from 18-19 April snowfall, so he returned to C1 because too dangerous for one climber alone. 

  29 April Stremfelj and Zalokar at 4:00 am left C1 and at 8:00 am on top of Sphinx via simple ridge (NE Ridge) of hard snow and ice easy to climb; (in descent fixed 200m for others but then decided too difficult for other members). Stremfelj and Zalokar continued from Sphinx to Pathivara NE Summit 7090m at about 3:00 pm along NE Ridge; from there to main summit was in clouds, and would have to biv and abandon their 2nd plan to go to Janak, so down to C1 same day. 

  30 April Stremfelj, Markovic and Novak went to Sphinx summit and down to ABC and on 1 May to BC. 3 May Stremfelj and Zalokar with 2 Sherpa porters to Janak Chuli.

  Sphinx (6825m) summited on 3 successive  days:

  28 Apr by Mihalic alone in 5 hours from C1 to summit.
  29 Apr by Stremfelj and Zalokar in 4 hours C1 to summit.
  30 Apr by Stremfelj (again), Markovic and Novak in 4 hours C1 to summit.

  Route: Northwest slope (snow slope 35 degree-40 degree) to NE Ridge (45 degree snow and ice) for all three parties. Had no permit for Sphinx.

  Health problems: 
    Hartman had a back problem and reached  ABC only.
    Horvat lost his way descending Pathivara Chuli from ABC to BC, had to bivouac 
      and fingers frostbitten.


expid: SARI06101
peakid: SARI
year: 2006
route1: NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Mick Chapman
sponsor: UK Saribung Expedition
ascent1: 3rd
approach: Bus to Besisahar->Koto->Pha->Laylu Khola->NW to Bhatchuk Glacier
bcdate: 2006-05-15
smtdate: 2006-05-19
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2006-05-21
campsites: BC(15/05,4950m),ABC(17/05,5425m),C1(18/05,5650m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Himalayan Adventures
routememo:
  BC  at Bhatchuk Glacier
  ABC further up (4 hours) Bhatchuk Glacier
  C1  at base of Saribung on Bhatchuk Glacier.

  Followed USA route (Ackroyd) basically to top. Left C1 7:30 am, late team because still snowing from early morning, then snow stopped, sun came out and no avalanching, so went to try for top. On top at 12:00 noon. Crevasses filled up by snow and easy to negotiate. 20th in BC. 

  Climbed from C1: avoided crevasses to right, then to col at 6042m and from col up NE Ridge. On return, used ponies to cross Layla Khola.

  Nepalese summiters: 
    Mingma Sherpa 41, Taksindu, no 8000ers
    Pasang Nima Sherpa, 32, Darjeeling to KTM, no 8000ers
    Nima Lama Tamang, 33, Darjeeling to KTM, no 8000ers

  Chapman arrived Kathmandu 3 May, stayed at Shangrila Hotel.


expid: SPHN06101
peakid: SPHN
year: 2006
route1: NW slope-NE Ridge-Sphinx Smt
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Andrej Stremfelj
sponsor: Slovenian Pathivara Expedition
ascent1: 4th-6th
approach: Taplejung->Ghunsa->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-11
smtdate: 2006-04-28
termdate: 2006-05-03
othersmts: Attempted Pyramid Peak (PYRM-061-01); climbed Janak Chuli (JANK-061-01)
campsites: BC(11/04,5140m),ABC(15/04,5445m),C1(23/04,6200m),Smt(28-30/04)
accidents: None
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC  at Pangpema (Erpic & Plevnik arrive BC 15 April)
  ABC at southwest end of West Langpo Glacier
  C1  at below Langpo Col (Langpa La)
  High point at NE Summit.

  To acclimatize Zalokar, Stremfelj, Mihalic and Markovic climbed 6000m peak between Pangpema and Drohmo Peak on 13 April.

  Made an ABC because 25 km from BC to C1; was at start of West Langpo Glacier. 24 April went to Langpo Col at 6400m but later route avoided this col and joined NE Ridge at 6600m. From C1, Mihalic on 28 April alone tried to reach Pathivara's summit (via Sphinx summit at 6825m), but ridge knife-edged and avalanche prone from 18-19 April snowfall, so he returned to C1 because too dangerous for one climber alone. 

  29 April Stremfelj and Zalokar at 4:00 am left C1 and at 8:00 am on top of Sphinx via simple ridge (NE Ridge) of hard snow and ice easy to climb; (in descent fixed 200m for others but then decided too difficult for other members). Stremfelj and Zalokar continued from Sphinx to Pathivara NE Summit 7090m at about 3:00 pm along NE Ridge; from there to main summit was in clouds, and would have to biv and abandon their 2nd plan to go to Janak, so down to C1 same day. 

  30 April Stremfelj, Markovic and Novak went to Sphinx summit and down to ABC and on 1 May to BC. 3 May Stremfelj and Zalokar with 2 Sherpa porters to Janak Chuli.

  Sphinx (6825m) summited on 3 successive  days:

  28 Apr by Mihalic alone in 5 hours from C1 to summit.
  29 Apr by Stremfelj and Zalokar in 4 hours C1 to summit.
  30 Apr by Stremfelj (again), Markovic and Novak in 4 hours C1 to summit.

  Route: Northwest slope (snow slope 35 degree-40 degree) to NE Ridge (45 degree snow and ice) for all three parties. Had no permit for Sphinx.

  Health problems: 
    Hartman had a back problem and reached ABC only.
    Horvat lost his way descending Pathivara Chuli from ABC to BC, had to bivouac 
      and fingers frostbitten.


expid: EVER04164
peakid: EVER
year: 2004
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Mathias Baumann
smtdate: 2004-05-19
termdate: 2004-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to altitude sickness
campsites: BC,ABC(6350m),C1(7090m),C2(17/05,7600m),C2B(18/05,7900m),C3(19/05,8300m),xxx(21/05,8300m)
agency: None
routememo:
  Expedition in part for testing Summit Oxygen systems (expedition briefly described on Explorer's Web).


expid: KYAS05301
peakid: KYAS
year: 2005
route1: SW Face (up); W Ridge (down)
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Marek Holecek
bcdate: 2005-10-10
smtdate: 2005-10-14
termdate: 2005-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to cold weather conditions
campsites: BC(11/10),Biv1(11/10),Biv2(12/10),Biv3(13/10,6400m),xxx(14/10,6500m),Biv4(14/10)
agency: None
routememo:
  Made three bivs on SW Face during ascent, and last biv on W Ridge in descent. High point was just above third biv where they joined the W Ridge at 6500m. They descended along the W Ridge.


expid: AMAD06301
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Oswald Santin
sponsor: Italian and German to Ama Dablam
countries: Germany
approach: Thami->Renjo La->BC
bcdate: 2006-10-08
smtdate: 2006-10-19
termdate: 2006-10-21
termnote: Abandoned at 5700m due to too little time, bad conditions and no fixed rope
campsites: BC(08/10,4500m),C1(11/10,5700m),xxx(19/10,5700m)
agency: Himalayan Culture Treks
routememo:
  Team left BC at 10 am on 19 Oct and arrived at C1 at 3 pm. Weather started off nice but deteriorated and it started snowing in afternoon. On 20 Oct it was cloudy and when they realized that weather was not going to improve, they descended to BC and left the next day. Another problem was that the mountain had not been fixed.


expid: AMAD06302
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Agnes Sauvage
sponsor: Independent on Ama Dablam
bcdate: 2006-10-13
smtdate: 2006-10-20
termdate: 2006-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 5700m due to snow conditions (whiteout)
othersmts: Attempted Cho Oyu before (CHOY-063-58)
campsites: BC(13/10),C1(20/10,5700m),xxx(20/10,5700m)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  Stuck in BC because of deep snow conditions. Went to C1 on 15th and back in BC and planned to go up in one push. Left 20 Oct from BC with Kami Tshering. 21 Oct big snowstorm and managed to get to BC nevertheless that day - very tired.

  Sherpa:
    Kami Tshering, aka Ang Tshering, 1962, Pangboche, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X5


expid: ANN106301
peakid: ANN1
year: 2006
route1: N Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Marco Camandona
sponsor: Annapurna 2006
ascent1: 47th
approach: By helicopter Kathmandu->Pokhara->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-18
smtdate: 2006-10-12
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2006-10-19
campsites: BC(18/09,4200m),C1(21-23/09,5000m),C2(23/09,5700m),C3(10/10,6700m),Smt(12/10)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at deposit only (not slept in)

  Every year mountain changes and is necessary to find safe route each time, so it took time to find relatively safe way (from falling ice seracs above C2) and to fix the route from C2 to C3; this took long time. Spent 11 Oct in C3 because of strong wind; summit party left C3 for top at 1:30 am of 12 Oct; on top: Mondinelli and Pemba Rinzi at 12:00 and Confortola at 12:40 pm, Camandona 1:00 pm (Mondinelli well acclimatized from frequent climbs of 8000ers, other 2 members not and so slower and as day wore on, wind picked up and blow away tracks of Mondinelli and Pemba Rinji). Camandona slept in C3 12 Oct, tired and did not want to move in darkness, while other 3 summiters went all the way down to BC at 11:30 pm.

  Iacchini to C2 3 times but not acclimatizing well, so no higher.

  Blanc left expedition 25 Sept (son's death); had reached C1.

  Team left BC only on 19th because they waited for helicopter. 

  Avalanching taking place "all the time" from several places.


expid: BARU06101
peakid: BARU
year: 2006
route1: NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Thomas Grenier
sponsor: HEC Baruntse Expedition
approach: Mera Peak->Mera La->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-25
smtdate: 2006-05-08
termdate: 2006-05-11
termnote: Abandoned at 7020m due to avalanche danger, lack of experience
campsites: BC(25/04,5450m),ABC(27/04,5800m),C1(06/05,6170m),C2(07/05,6450m),xxx(08/05,7020m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  by lake
  ABC below West Col
  High point between South and Main Summit.

  On 07 May team left C2 at 6 am. When they started the weather was clear, however, clouds moved in at around 10 am. Shortly above the south summit they reached the ridge, but conditions were not good. They worried about avalanches and had too little experience. At 10 am they turned back and descended to C2, arrived at 12 noon. The next day they descended to BC and left valley via Mera La. They think they could have done it with more experience.

  Sherpa:
    Mingma Nuru Sherpa, Jubing-7, Paiya, 1959-60


expid: BARU06301
peakid: BARU
year: 2006
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Pier Paolo Role Romano
sponsor: Italians on Baruntse
approach: Lukla->Mera La
bcdate: 2006-10-09
smtdate: 2006-10-09
termdate: 2006-10-14
termnote: Abandoned at 5400m due lack of equipment and too much snow
campsites: BC(09/10,5440m),xxx(14/10,5440m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Team did not climb beyond BC as, according to Tricou from French team, they were not well prepared. They had no fixed rope or Sherpas. They remained at BC for 5 days and did not go beyond BC. They left BC via Amphu Laptsa together with the French team.


expid: CHOY06301
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Reiner Taglinger
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Cho Oyu Expedition 2006
countries: Austria
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-03
smtdate: 2006-10-01
smttime: 0615
termdate: 2006-10-03
campsites: BC(03/09,4910m),ABC(06/09,5700m),C1(12/09,6426m),C2(17/09,7135m),C3(30/09,7546m),Smt(01/10)
accidents: Schweizer frostbitten hands; Taglinger frostbitten toes
agency: Iceland Trekking (Dorje)
routememo:
  Summit team left C3 on 30 Sept at 1 am. Weather was clear. After 1-1/2 hours Taglinger felt that his feet were going numb and sped up to prevent frostbite. He reached summit 2 hours before clients. He took pictures of Everest and immediately returned to C3 where he tried to thaw his feet. Rest of team reached summit at 8:15 am. They spent 15 minutes, saw Everest and descended to C3. They arrived at 11 am.

  Joachim Schweizer noticed there that his ring and middle fingers of both hands were numb. Together with Taglinger they descended to C2. He massaged them all night. As Taglinger they descended to C2, arrived at 2 pm. Schweizer's fingers started to turn blue in C2. He massaged them all night. As Taglinger's feet were still cold he descended to ABC, where he arrived at 7:15 pm. There he put his feet in 37 degree C water until feeling started to come back. 

  Part of team that stayed at C2 on 1 Oct returned to ABC on 2 Oct and arrived at 4 pm. Schweizer also put his hand into 37 degree C water at ABC. On his return to Kathmandu, both his ring and middle fingers were still dark blue. He did not go to CIWEC. Will see doctor on his return to Germany. Taglinger's toes seemed Ok.

  Griessmeier reached C2 on 17 Sept; he abandoned climb due to fatigue and stomach problems on 29 Sept, when he reached C1 for 2nd time.

  Awang Dorje from Lhasa (21 years) reached C3 on 30 Sept; he descended to ABC the same day as he was not feeling well.


expid: CHOY06302
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Michael Niemeier
sponsor: German on Cho Oyu
bcdate: 2006-09-03
smtdate: 2006-09-30
smttime: 0855
termdate: 2006-10-02
campsites: BC(03/09,4900m),ABC(08/09,5500m),C1(16/09,6300m),C2(17/09,7100m),C3(29/09,7500m),Smt(30/09)
agency: Himalayan Windhorse Adventure
routememo:
  Team left C3 at 3:30 am Nepali time. It was clear, lot of snow but hard, good to walk. They arrived at summit at 8:55. Niemeier was the first client to reach the top this season. When they got to the top it was very cloudy and windy (100 km per hour). They spent about 40 minutes on the summit as he hoped that the weather would clear but it did not. He is sure that he was on the real top as his Sherpa re-assured him. They descended to C2, where they arrived at 3 pm. They descended to ABC on 1 Oct.


expid: CHOY06303
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Winfried Kurzeder
sponsor: Amical Alpin Cho Oyu Nachmonsoon Expedition 2006
countries: Austria, Netherlands
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-01
smtdate: 2006-10-01
smttime: 0845
termdate: 2006-10-03
campsites: BC(01/09,4900m),ABC(04/09,5500m),C1(11/09,6300m),C2(16/09,7050m),C3(30/09,7400m),Smt(01/10)
accidents: Pulmonary edema by Kurzeder
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Harald and Martina Bauer, Leitner and Ang Nima Rai left C3 at 3 am (NT). Ang Nima Rai felt too sick and immediately turned around and descended to C2. Harald Bauer turned back at 7500m due to sickness/nausea; Martina turned back at 7700m due to fatigue. The weather was clear. Leitner carried on to summit and arrived at 8:45 am. No wind on summit, saw Everest. He spent 1 hour on summit and descended to C2, where he arrived at 3 pm. Harald, Martina and Ang Nima also spent the night at C2. 

  Berghuis reached C1 on 8 Sept, but did not stay the night; he abandoned climb due to flu and lack of mental strength.

  Buys-Den Ouden and Buys Willem reached C1 on 8 Sept, but did not stay the night; both abandoned climb due to lack of technical skills.

  Kurzeder reached ABC but could not go any higher due to HAPE. He descended to Tingri on 6 Sept and stayed there for two nights. He returned to ABC where he stayed for the rest of expedition.

  Van Den Broeke reached 6400m (just below serac) on 12 Sept, then turned back due to exhaustion and weakness. He got to the same point again on 16 Sept and turned back due to same reasons.

  Chuldim Sherpa (10/09/71, Khumjung, Cho Oyu X7) reached C2 on 15 Sept, but did not go higher due to lack of motivation.

  Ang Nima Rai (Namche, 14/08/67) reached C3 on 30 Sept.


expid: CHOY06304
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Koldo Zubimendi
sponsor: Cho Oyu Team
bcdate: 2006-09-05
smtdate: 2006-10-01
smttime: 1345
termdate: 2006-10-04
campsites: BC(05/09),ABC(09/09,5700m),C1(16/09,6400m),C2(29/09,7100m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Makalu Adventure
routememo:
  Did not go to North Ridge as planned because glacier very broken up and long distance; also because they had planned to acclimatize on normal route before going to North Ridge, but long period of bad weather left not enough time for this.

  Iriondo not fast climber, so only Zubimendi went to top. Both left C2 at 11:30 pm 30 Sept; Iriondo to 7400m and turned back to C2 while Zubimendi went alone till 7:00 am, then met others (French). Had to stop often because problem with crampons; took direct line to plateau, reached highest point and saw Everest and Lhotse at 1:45 pm. On top were 3 others including Italians. 

  Iriondo was very tired and asked for help and they gave him food and water; he was very slow, stopped off at C3 while Zubimendi now moved faster to C2 at 7:00 pm. To ABC on 2nd and there realized both feet frostbitten (right more seriously then left).


expid: CHOY06305
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Serbia
leaders: Dragan Jacimovic
sponsor: Cho Oyu Expedition 2006
countries: Croatia
bcdate: 2006-09-02
smtdate: 2006-10-01
smttime: 0855
termdate: 2006-10-04
campsites: BC(02/09),ABC(06/09,5400m),C1(14/09,6400m),C2(18/09,7100m),C3(30/09,7500m),Smt(01/10)
accidents: Only Nikolic slight frostbite
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  3:00 am 7 members and both Sherpas left C3 for top, on top at various times from 8:55 am to 11:00 am in more or less two groups. Very good weather, clear and windless. All to C2 to sleep; arrived 5:00-8:30 pm on 1st. 2nd all to ABC.

  Oxygen used:
    by members from C3 to top to C3, 
    by Sherpas: Ang Pasang occasionally C2 to top to C3; Pemba Jeba none.

  Grdovic to C2 only; had stomach trouble.

  Jacimovic to 6600m only; as leader, had no intention to go high and spent most of his time at ABC directing his members by walkie-talkie.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Pasang, 11/2/66, Pangboche, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X5
    Pemba Jeba, 30/8/74, Hungung,  Makalu, 1st 8000er


expid: CHOY06336
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Australia
leaders: Blair Falahey
sponsor: Australian on Cho Oyu
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-04
smtdate: 2006-10-01
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2006-10-03
campsites: BC(04/09,4700m),ABC(07/09,5500m),C1(16/09,6300m),C2(29/09,7100m),C3(30/09,7500m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Team left C3 at 1 am (NT). Weather was clear, slight wind. Falahey spent about 15 minutes on summit. Lhakpa left summit before Falahey. Falahey descended to C2, where he arrived at 1 pm. Lhakpa had already descended to C1. The next day Falahey descended to C1 where he arrived at 10 am. He and Lhakpa packed packed up C1 and descended to ABC.

  Lhakpa Sherpa, 7/5/65, Makalu-9, Cho Oyu 21/9/03


expid: CHOY06306
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Cho Oyu Expedition 2006
countries: Argentina, France, Japan, Netherlands, Sweden, Switzerland, UK
bcdate: 2006-09-01
smtdate: 2006-10-01
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2006-10-05
campsites: Sherpas.BC(01/09,5400m),ABC(06/09,5669m),C1(13/09,6389m),C2(19/09,7149m),C3(30/09,7400m),Smt(01/10)
accidents: Lahuin's fall
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  Route: NW side (east of normal route above C2 in bow).

  All members were on summit push except Brice, Maria Stam and Suzuki. Team left C3 2:30 am NST and on top 9:00 am of 1 Oct and down to C2 (except skiers to C1).

  Oxygen used by all summiters and Lehuin and Windle from C3 to high points to between C3 and C2 except Macklin, Lehuin and Stam, who started using it from C2. 

  Defazio and Palm skied from summit to C1 except for down climbing at ice cliff, 10m high.

  Non-summiters: Bradey at time for summit push, got stomach trouble; 
    reached C2 only.
  Brice to C1 3 times, mostly in ABC.
  Lehuin slipped and fell 20m; not seriously hurt but turned back at 7850m.
  Windle, deputy leader, went down with Lehuin.
  Stam van Tatenhove went to C1 only, didn't enjoy the climb left team 18 Sept 
    and went to Lhasa
  Suzuki to C1, not capable of going higher.

  Summit Sherpas: 
    Dorje Sonam Gyalzen, 1981, Phortse, Everest X6
    Ang Karma, 25/7/74, Phortse, Everest X1
    Phura Nuru, 28/6/85, Tesho, Namche-6, Everest X1


expid: CHOY06308
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Christophe Ludot
sponsor: Independents on Cho Oyu
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-10
smtdate: 2006-10-01
smttime: 0815
termdate: 2006-10-03
campsites: BC(10/09,4900m),ABC(15/09,5750m),C1(20/09,6400m),C2(25/09,7100m),C3(30/09,7550m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Arun Treks/Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Team left C3 at 1:30 am on 1 Oct. Weather was clear and calm. Many people headed out at the same time. They saw Everest and stayed at summit for about 40 minutes. They descended to C2, where they arrived at 9 pm (NT). They descended to ABC the next day.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Rangdu Sherpa, Sotang-6, Solukhumbu, 18/11/67
      Everest 2005 - 21/5 (North)
      Everest 2006 - 19/5 (South)
      Cho Oyu 2003, 2004
    Da Ongchhu Sherpa, Lhokim-4, Solukhumbu, 16/4/79 
      Everest North 2005
      Cho Oyu 2005


expid: CHOY06309
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Thomas Grenier
sponsor: HEC Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-08
smtdate: 2006-10-01
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2006-10-04
campsites: BC(08/09,4900m),ABC(11/09,5700m),C1(16/09,6400m),C2(17/09,7200m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Team left C2 at midnight on 1 Oct. They were climbing with Cimenti from Italian team. At about 8000m Cimenti carried on his own. Grenier, De La Forest Divonne and Lhakpa spent about 30 minutes on summit. They descended to C2, where they arrived at 3 pm. The next day they descended to ABC.

  Lhakpa Nuru, Namche, 23/5/78, Everest X3 (2003 was his first time)


expid: CHOY06310
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Fabio Meraldi
sponsor: High Passion Expedition Cho Oyu 2006
approach: 2 members & leader via Lhasa & Giovannini via Zhangmu
bcdate: 2006-09-02
smtdate: 2006-09-02
termdate: 2006-09-05
termnote: Abandoned at 5650m due to destruction of tents and equipments
campsites: BC(02/09,5640m),xxx(05/09,5650m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  No climbing due to destruction of tents and climbing gears at BC. A Chinese truck ran over the tents (two sleeping tents and one mess tent). The team could not use anything as all destroyed.

  Three climbers including leader left BC on Sept 5 and arrived Kathmandu on Sept 6. They left Kathmandu on 8. Diego Giovannini left BC on 6 and arrived Kathmandu on 7. He left Kathmandu on 10. Diego stayed at Royal Singi. Leader and other members stayed at Dwarika.


expid: CHOY06311
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Cesare Cesa Bianchi
sponsor: Cho Oyu 2006 Expedition
bcdate: 2006-09-08
smtdate: 2006-09-19
termdate: 2006-09-27
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to heavy snowfall and lack of time
campsites: BC(08/09,4900m),ABC(11/09,5750m),C1(14/09,6750m),C2(18/09,7200m),xxx(19/09,7500m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  High point at 100m below C3.

  Went to high point on 19th for acclimatzation and down to ABC. Planned to go to C1 on 22nd for summit push, but big snowfall now (1/2 meter in ABC) and lasted 4 days. Now on 25th too late for third attempt to continue although 26th good weather but necessary to wait for avalanche to stop 3-4 days. Winds had started in last days.


expid: CHOY06312
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Georges Derycke
sponsor: Odyssee Montagne Expedition Cho Oyu
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-01
smtdate: 2006-09-19
termdate: 2006-09-25
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to deep snow (continous snowfall)
campsites: BC(01/09,4800m),ABC(04/09,5700m),C1(08/04,6400m),C2(19/09,7200m),xxx(19-21/09,7200m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  First group of four climbers Boucher, Derycke, Milliere and Poirier reached C2 on Sept 19; waited for snowfall to stop to go for summit. 

  Second group of two members Laurens and Milan reached C2 on 21. There was big avalanche started from summit plateau and climbers decided to descend to lower camp. There was minimum 1m deep snow and it was not possible to climb higher up.

  The expedition had to call off climbing as the Chinese liaison officer refused to extend climbing period. 

  Barreau and Mrs Laurens climbed up to C1 on Sept 20, and Souccar on Sept 19 to C1. They were tired and did not continue their climb. 

  The expedition returned to Kathmandu on Sept 27 and will leave Nepal on 30th.


expid: CHOY06313
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Valeria Restelli
sponsor: Cho Oyu Flying Expedition 2006
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-03
smtdate: 2006-09-21
termdate: 2006-10-02
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to too much snow
othersmts: Peak North-East of ABC by Pedroncelli
campsites: BC(03/09,4900m),ABC(08/09,5500m),C1(20/09,6300m),C2(21/09,7100m),xxx(21/09,7100m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Frigerio and Pedroncelli left C1 at 9 pm (NT) on 21 Sept. It was cloudy. Conditions were good. They deposited their gear at C2 and returned to C1 at 5 pm. It started snowing which was the beginning of the bad weather, which lasted 5 days. The next day they descended to ABC. On 27 Sept Pedroncelli and Nanda Dorje Sherpa left ABC. Slept another night at C1 and ascended to C2 the 28 Sept. They left C1 at 9:30 and arrived at 3 pm. Pedroncelli decided at 5 pm to fly down with the paraglider as the weather was perfect and he was worried that it would turn bad again. He flew about 15 minutes and landed on top of the Nangpa La. He walked to ABC, where he arrived at 7:30 pm.

  Nanda Dorje Sherpa stayed the night at C2 on 28 Sept. He packed up C2 and descended to ABC the same day.

  The team decided to abandon the climb due to too much snow.

  On 1 Oct Pedroncelli ascended the peak which is northeast of ABC (6300m - don't know the name). It took him 3 hours to get up. He flew down with his paraglider and called landed on the Nangpa La again.

  Sherpa:
    Nanda Dorje, 30/12/66, Khumjung


expid: CHOY06314
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Alberto Bianchi
sponsor: Italians on Cho Oyu
countries: Spain
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-08
smtdate: 2006-10-01
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2006-10-04
campsites: BC(08/09,4900m),ABC(11/09,5700m),C1(15/09,6400m),C2(29/09,7200m),C3(30/09,7500m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Bianchi and Phu Dorje left C2 at 2 am (NT) on 1 Oct. Weather was clear. Phu Dorje was a lot quicker than Bianchi, so he carried on without him. Bianchi stayed on summit for about 10 minutes, then descended to C3, where he arrived at 4 pm. Phu Dorje was waiting there.

  Cimenti started from C2 at midnight. He spent 15 minutes on to, then descended to C2. At about 8150m he met Bianchi and gave him his glasses as Phu Dorje carried Bianchi's stuff. But he had already gone on. Cimenti arrived at C2 at noon. He descended to ABC on 2 Oct. Bianchi descended to C1 on 1 Oct and ABC on 3 Oct.

  Santos got to about 7400m on 30 Sept. He turned back due to lack of experience and energy. He descended to ABC the same day. (He had left with Bianchi from C3).


expid: CHOY06315
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Josef Simunek
sponsor: Cho Oyu Expedition 2006
bcdate: 2006-09-19
smtdate: 2006-10-07
termdate: 2006-10-10
campsites: BC(19/09),ABC(21/09,5600m),C1(27/09,6400m),C2(06/10,7000m),xxx(07/10,7600m)
agency: Nepal Trans Himalayan Explorer
routememo:
  Jelinek, Prokop, Simunek and Lhakpa Dorje left C2 for summit at midnight (NST). Jelinek climbed for only 30 minutes and decided no more and down to C2; other 3 went on up. Simunek at 7500m boots "not satisfactory" following other 2 saw they stopped at 7600m because Prokop was slow; Simunek joined them at 7600m and then at 10:00 am all down to ABC and all 4 arrived ABC 5:00 pm. 

  Cuda had reached C2 and down to C1 same day 1 Oct. 
  Kricka to 6700m late Sept, early Oct. 

  Simunek left ABC 6 Oct 6:30 am, arrived C2 6:00 pm and left for top with others at midnight. Other factors discouraging Simunek from continuing his climb: 1) he lived in a communist country, Czechoslavakia, and he detested Chinese army's shooting a Tibetans fleeing Communism for Nepal; 2) huge number of climbers on Cho Oyu.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Dorje, 16/11/61, Sanam, Gudel VDC, Solukhumbu, 
      Makalu X3, Lhotse X1, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X3


expid: CHOY06316
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Denmark
leaders: Nick Nielsen
sponsor: Cho Oyu 2006
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-06
smtdate: 2006-09-18
termdate: 2006-09-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to continuous bad weather
campsites: BC(06/09,4800m),ABC(09/09,5700m),C1(14/09,6400m),xxx(18/09,7100m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC Sept 08 at 5300m.

  Nielsen went up to 7100m (C2) and left his deposit there. There was lots of snow. The weather remained bad. Nissen went up to 6700m. Both the climbers spent 3 nights in C1 and finally decided to give up climbing. The team returned to Kathmandu on Sept 20 and will leave on Oct 4.


expid: CHOY06317
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Manuel Benito
sponsor: Spaniards on Cho Oyu
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-11
smtdate: 2006-10-07
smttime: 1140
termdate: 2006-10-10
campsites: BC(11/09,4900m),ABC(13/09,5700m),C1(18/09,6400m),C2(25/09,7100m),C3(06/10,7400m),Smt(07/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Summit team left C3 at 5:30 pm (NT). Weather cloudy and very windy. Spent 1 minute on summit. Descended to C3, where they arrived at 2:45 pm. Benito saw Everest, Nuptse and Lhotse as he was on top a bit earlier. 

  Lara got to C1 on 18 Sept, but did not sleep there; felt altitude sickness. He left BC on 5 Oct.

  Benito and Logrono climbed together with Agostin Guerrero & Rafael Perello.


expid: CHOY06318
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Russia
leaders: Gennady Kirievsky
sponsor: Ural Cho Oyu Expedition 2006
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-10
smtdate: 2006-09-30
campsites: BC(10/09,5000m),ABC(13/09,5700m),C1(16/09,6400m),C2(21/09,7100m),C3(29/09,7400m),Smt(30/09,01/10)
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
routememo:
  C1  6400m Kirievsky, Frolenko, Ovchinnikov, Ragozin and Loutsenko
  C2  Bolotov, Lomoskikh
  C3  entire team.

  30 Sept team start from C3 at 4 am Nepali time, summit at 11:30 by entire team. Stayed for 40 minutes, good weather, made pictures of Everest, Lhotse. Met 1 Polish with Sherpa and other climbers, all together 6; came down to C2 at 5:30 pm. Ovchinnikov stayed in C3.

  1 Oct Kirievsky started from C3 at 4:30 Nepali time, summit at 1:30 together with 2 French and 1 Polish, stayed 10-15 minutes, came down to C3 at 4 pm.


expid: CHOY06319
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Takehiko Ikeda
sponsor: JWAF Nagano Mt. Cho Oyu Expedition 2006
bcdate: 2006-09-05
smtdate: 2006-10-03
smttime: 0650
termdate: 2006-10-11
campsites: BC(05/09),ABC(09/09,5700m),C1(14/09,6400m),C2(01/10,7000m),C3(02/10,7600m),Smt(03,06/10)
accidents: Ikeda & Takegani frostbite
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  First summit party left C3 at 2:30 am NST 3 Oct, on top at 6:50 am (Hirano) and other members 8:16 am; Hirano to ABC at 16:20 hours, Hiroki and Ueno to C2 at 14:00 hours; no wind, clear sky, saw Everest.

  2nd summit party left C3 at 2:30 am, on top at 9:40 am and back to C2 at 14:00 hours; clean sky but strong wind and Ikeda and Takegami got mild frostbite (Ikeda's nose and Takegami's toe); saw Everest and Lhotse.

  Oxygen used on 3 Oct by members in C2 to top to C2, but Sherpas used none and 6 Oct summiters used none. 

  Sherpa summiters:
    Nima Nuru, Thamiteng, 18/6/84, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X1
    Tika Gurung, Makalu VDC, 32 years old, K-2 2004, Gasherbrum II 2003
    Pemba Nuru, Thamiteng, 17/1/77, Everest X3
    Dawa Jangbu, Thamiteng, 28/4/86, 1st 8000er

  Takako Wago did not go above ABC; she was ABC manager.


expid: CHOY06320
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: John Ross
sponsor: Foindle Cho Oyu Expedition 2006
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-08-28
smtdate: 2006-09-29
smttime: 1630
termdate: 2006-10-02
campsites: BC(28/08,4800m),ABC(30/08,5700m),C1(07/09,6400m),C2(21/09,7200m),Smt(29/09)
achievment: 1st one to summit (Aut 2006)
agency: Unique Adventure International
routememo:
  Ross and Moti Lal left C2 at 13:00 hours NST on Sept 29, reached summit at 16:30 hours, descended to C2 at 21:30 hours - very tired. Next day descended to ABC. Ross and Moti Lal had to wait about 2-1/2 hours at the final leg. The Sherpas fixed the rope up to 7900m and returned to lower camp. At the summit there was strong wind and very cold. Snow condition was good. Ross and Moti Lal saw beautiful view of Everest and other mountains. 

  Ross returned to Kathmandu on Oct 3 and will leave on 5th.


expid: CHOY06321
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Domenico Di Bartolomeo
sponsor: Cho Oyu Expedition 2006
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-15
smtdate: 2006-10-05
termdate: 2006-10-12
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to bad weather and tiredness
campsites: BC(15/09,5000m),ABC(17/09,5600m),C1(21/09,6400m),C2(05/10,7100m),xxx(05/10,7100m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 16 Sept at 5300m.

  When the team reached C2, it was very cold. Weather was bad and members were very tired. Then decided to give up further climbing. 

  The expedition returned to Kathmandu on Oct 12 and trying to leave as soon as possible. There return booking is for Oct 20.


expid: CHOY06322
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Agustin Guerrero
sponsor: Expedicion 'Civdad de Burgos' to Cho Oyu
bcdate: 2006-09-11
smtdate: 2006-10-07
smttime: 1215
termdate: 2006-10-10
campsites: BC(11/09,4900m),ABC(13/09,5700m),C1(18/09,6400m),C2(25/09,7100m),C3(06/10,7400m),Smt(07/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Guerrero left C3 at 5:30 pm (NST) with Perrello. Weather was windy and cloudy. No views from the summit. They saw prayer flags. He spent about 1 minute on the summit. Wind was too strong. He descended to C3 where he arrived at 5 pm. He descended to ABC the next day. Benito and Logrono from another Spanish team also climbed with them. 

  Castrillo got to 7200m on 6 Oct. He had lost most of his material when his tent was blown away at C2 between 13 Sept and 18 Sept. He had in it his Goretex jacket and he was mentally not prepared. He returned to C2, where he stayed another night.


expid: CHOY06323
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Rafael Perello
sponsor: Spaniard on Cho Oyu
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-11
smtdate: 2006-10-07
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2006-10-10
campsites: BC(11/09,4900m),ABC(13/09,5700m),C1(18/09,6400m),C2(25/09,7100m),C3(06/10,7400m),Smt(07/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Perello left C3 at 5:30 am with Guerrero. Weather was windy and cloudy. No views from summit, but he saw prayer flags. He spent 1 minute on the summit. He descended to C3 where arrived at 5 pm. Next day to ABC.

  * Benito and Logrono also climbed with him.


expid: CHOY06324
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Juan-Carlos Santamaria
sponsor: Spaniard on Cho Oyu
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-11
smtdate: 2006-10-01
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2006-10-10
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to pain in his ribs
campsites: BC(11/09,4900m),ABC(13/09,5700m),C1(21/09,6400m),C2(25/09,7100m),xxx(05/10,7100m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Santamaria reached C2 on 5 Oct. He felt sick and tried to vomit but couldn't. Due to the contractions from vomiting he pulled a muscle in his right rib cage. He was in too much pain to carry on. The next day he descended to ABC, where doctor from Philippines treated him.


expid: CHOY06325
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Greece
leaders: Anastasia Iliopoulou
sponsor: Greeks on Cho Oyu
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-06
smtdate: 2006-10-01
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2006-10-03
campsites: BC(06/09,4900m),ABC(11/09,5700m),C1(16/09,6400m),C2(30/09,7200m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Tashi Lhakpa Sherpa left C2 at 10 pm of Sept 30, reached summit at 7 am of Oct 1, stayed on summit about 30 minutes, descended to ABC at 4 pm. Tashi did not use oxygen. Weather was very good, little windy, at the summit ahead of Tashi were one Sherpa and a client. Behind Tashi there were many people. 

  The Greeks abandoned the climb at 7600m due to exhaustion, lack of confidence, and cold.

  The expedition returned to Kathmandu on Oct 5 and will leave on 6.

  Sherpas:
    Tashi Lhakpa Sherpa, 18/11/1985, Walung, Makalu-9, Sankhuwasabha. 
      Musician and climber. Smt: Everest 2004 & 2005, Ama Dablam 2005
    Nawang Sherpa (brother of Tashi), 2/8/81, climbed up to C3
    Karma Gyalzen Sherpa, from same village, climbed up to C3


expid: CHOY06326
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: David Pitar
sponsor: Tarazona Cho Oyu Expedition 2006
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-11
smtdate: 2006-10-04
termdate: 2006-10-07
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to high winds, broken crampons
campsites: BC(11/09,4900m),ABC(14/09,5700m),C1(21/09,6400m),C2(30/09,7100m),xxx(04/10,7400m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Pitar left C2 at midnight on 4 Oct. Weather was very windy. When Pitar arrived at 7400m below C3 at 2 am, he decided to turn back as wind was too strong and his crampons kept on falling off. He descended to C2 where he arrived at 3 am. On 5 Oct he descended to C1, where he stayed the night. On 6 Oct to ABC.

  Cuenca and San Vincente got to 6600m on 22 Sept. They descended to C1 due to exhaustion. They stayed the night and descended to ABC the next day.

  Juste reached C1 on 21 Sept and stayed the night. The next day she descended to ABC as she was feeling ill. She had throat infection.


expid: CHOY06327
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Javier Sanchez Gutierrez
sponsor: Team Malaga to Cho Oyu
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-06
smtdate: 2006-10-02
smttime: 0955
termdate: 2006-10-05
campsites: BC(06/09,4900m),ABC(08/09,5700m),C1(14/09,6400m),C2(20/09,7150m),Smt(02/10)
agency: Bochi Bochi Treks
routememo:
  Sanchez Gutierrez left C2 at 11 pm on 1 Oct. Weather was calm and clear. He spent 10 minutes on top. He descended to C2, where he arrived at 2 pm. On 3 Oct he descended to ABC.

  Lopez reached 6800m on 20 Sept. He turned back at 4 pm because he was going to slow and it was getting late. He descended to C1 where he arrived at 5 pm. He stayed 2 nights at C1.

  Merchan reached C2 on 20 Sept and stayed the night. The next day he and Sanchez descended to C1 and all members descended to ABC on 22 Sept. Merchan felt ill when Sanchez left for summit push so he decided to stay at ABC. He felt very dizzy, probably problems with his ear.


expid: CHOY06328
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Poland
leaders: Darius Wylezol
sponsor: Cho Oyu Expedition 2006
countries: Germany
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-04
smtdate: 2006-10-01
smttime: 1145
termdate: 2006-10-05
campsites: BC(04/09,4900m),ABC(08/09,5700m),C1(13/09,6900m),C2(15/09,7200m),C3(30/09,7400m),Smt(01-02/10)
agency: Himalayan Sherpa Adventure
routememo:
  Summit 1 Oct: Naludka, Sarna, Wolanin left C3 at 6 am, Wylezol and Pasang Dawa left C3 at 6 am but had to return to C3 after about 200m as Wylezol did not wear enough clothes. All summiters stayed about 30 minutes on summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at 6 pm, apart from Wolanin who arrived at 9:45 pm.

  Summit 2 Oct: Pilatowski, Hudek and Grazadziel left C3 at 3:30 am. Apanasewicz and Semieniec left at 8 am. Weather was clear. They spent about 30 minutes on summit. Hudek arrived at C2 at 7 pm. Pilatowski arrived at C2 at 9 pm. Remaining members stayed at C3. Apanasewicz and Siemieniec arrived at 9 pm, Grzadziel at 11 pm.

  Krzysztof Hudek reached 6800m on 16 Sept, but turned back due to altitude problems.
  Juziuk reached 6800m on 20 Sept, but abandoned climb due to fatigue.
  Kawalec reached 6800m on 01 Oct, but turned back due to altitude problems.

  Lukasik reached 8000m on 2 Oct but turned back at 10 pm as it was getting too late. He had also taken a wrong turning on summit plateau. He followed tracks on left hand side. He returned to C3 where he arrived at 7:30 pm on 3 Oct. When he arrived C3 Apanasewicz and Siemienic were still at C3 sleeping; at about 10 am they descended to ABC. Lukasik spent another night at C3 and descended to C2 on his own on 4 Oct. He felt very tired and took 4 hours to C2. He tried to take tent with him from C3 but wind was too strong and it flew away. On 5 Oct he descended to ABC where he arrived at 1 am on 6 Oct. The other members had to leave as they had ordered their yaks which they used together. They left him a tent and asked Phil Crampton's cook to look after him. Lukasik left ABC on 6 Oct. He walked to intermediate camp from where he took a truck to Tingri. There he met Phil Crampton and he got a lift with him to Zhangmu, where Siemieniec and Apanasewicz were waiting for him. They arrived in Kathmandu on 7 Oct.

  Pasang Dawa, Chaurikharka, Solu, 18/11/78, Cho Oyu X1 24/9/2005


expid: CHOY06329
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Canada
leaders: Jean-Pierre Danvoye
sponsor: L'Echappe Belle Cho Oyu 2006
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-05
smtdate: 2006-10-02
smttime: 0625
termdate: 2006-10-06
campsites: BC(05/09,4900m),ABC(10/09,5700m),C1(17/09,6400m),C2(19/09,7100m),C3(01/10,7450m),Smt(02/10)
accidents: Malo stroke
agency: Nomad Expeditions
routememo:
  Summit team left C3 at 1:30 (NST). Weather was clear but windy. Good views of Everest. They spent 1 hour on the summit. They descended to C2, where they arrived at 1:30 pm. Next day they descended to C2 where they arrived at 1:30 pm. Next day they descended to ABC. 

  Malo suffered a stroke on 15 Sept at 10:15 am at 5850m just below "killer slope." He collapsed and Danvoye gave him dexamethasone and called his Sherpas. Luis Benitas and Victor Saunders were also involved in rescue. At about 12 noon 15 Sherpas carried Malo down the night with doctors from Xtrem Everest, who Danvoye thinks saved his life. The next day 10 Tibetans and 2 Sherpas carried him to roadside. Danvoye, Chris Imray from Xtreme Everest were with Malo. They drove to Zhangmu on 16 Sept; on 17 Sept they drove to Tatopani from where they took a helicopter to Kathmandu. Malo spent 6 nights in the Norvic hospital and was flown to Canada on 22 Sept. He is now in hospital in Montreal. Danvoye returned to Tingri on 21 Sept and was back at ABC on 22 Sept at 2 pm.

  Marois reached C2 on 19 Sept, spent the night there but returned due to stomach problems. He left ABC on 30 Sept.

  Setlakwe reached C2 on 30 Sept. He did not feel well and decided to descended to ABC. He was too exhausted to climb.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Pemba Sherpa, 25/7/78 Thami, Everest Spring 2006 (18/5/06)
    Tendi Sherpa, 2/6/1967, Taksindu, (brother of Babu Chhiri) 
      Everest 16/5/2004, Cho Oyu 26/9/2005 (with Danvoye)
    Dawa Tenzing, 21/3/86, Tesho, Everest 21/5/06 Spring 2006
    Lhakpa Nuru, 25/9/1972, Yilajung, Everest X6, Cho Oyu 2005 (with Danvoye)  


expid: CHOY06330
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Simon Hall
sponsor: Precious Air Dragon 2006 (British Army)
countries: Nepal
bcdate: 2006-09-15
smtdate: 2006-10-09
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2006-10-11
campsites: BC(15/09),ABC(19/09,5650m),C1(28/09,6400m),C2(30/09,7130m),Smt(09/10)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Summit team left C2 11:15 pm NST 8 Oct and on top 6:30 am, saw Everest, and down to C2 11:00 am. 10th to ABC. 

  When summit team left ABC on 7 Oct for top, they were joined by Dawa Steven Sherpa, son of Asian Trekking's boss Ang Tshering Sherpa and his Belgian wife; Dawa born in Kathmandu, was in ABC for Asian Trekking to help their clients and tagged along to summit party up from C2 to top to C2.

  Sherpa summiters: 
    Krishna Bahadur Tamang, 25/9/1968, Kanku, Solu, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X2
    Tshering Thundu, 4/10/74, Khumjung, Everest X1

  (Not part of official team: Dawa Steven Sherpa, 11/3/84, Kathmandu, 1st 8000er)


expid: CHOY06331
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Damian Benegas
sponsor: Patagonian Brothers Expedition Expedition 2006
countries: Argentina, Brazil
bcdate: 2006-09-09
smtdate: 2006-09-30
termdate: 2006-10-06
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to illness of client
campsites: BC(09/09),ABC(11/09,5400m),C1(16/09,6200m),C2(30/09,7200m),xxx(30/09,7200m)
accidents: Souza's asthma
agency: Nomad Expeditions
routememo:
  17th Sept to rest at ABC and then big snow storm, so only on 27th Sept, could return to C1; Benegas and Souza and Wangchu went to C1 while Erroz was busy with Frenchman for Palang Ri but joined them arriving C2 on 30th Sept. 1 Oct down to ABC because Souza had bad asthma, had great trouble breathing in high altitude cold air and she only client left. 

  Highest point reached by Benegas, Erroz, Souza and Wangchu Sherpa on 30th Sept at C2.

  Barnes went to ABC, then left team on 12 Sept because of family problems.

  Sherpa:
    Wangchu Sherpa, 2/2/78, Taksindu-3, Ev 21/5/06


expid: CHOY06332
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Portugal
leaders: Daniela Nicolau Teixeira
sponsor: Portuguese on Cho Oyu
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-18
smtdate: 2006-10-07
smttime: 1345
termdate: 2006-10-11
campsites: BC(18/09,4900m),ABC(20/09,5700m),C1(27/09,6400m),C2(29/09,7200m),Smt(07/10)
achievment: 1st Portuguese woman to summit Cho Oyu
agency: Happy Treks
routememo:
  Nicolau Teixeira left C2 at 2:30 am (CST), reached summit at 3 pm (1:45 NST), stayed on summit about 5 to 10 minutes and then descended to C2 between 5:30-6 pm. Next day to ABC. On the summit there were some Sherpas and probably 3-4 Italians. Weather was good, saw on summit prayer flags and oxygen cylinder. She did not put in any tents. She used tents of Philippines camps at C1 and C2. 

  Nicolau Teixeira returned to Kathmandu on Oct 12 and will leave on 15.


expid: CHOY06333
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Brendan Cusik
sponsor: American Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 2006-09-27
smtdate: 2006-10-07
termdate: 2006-10-18
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to strong wind
campsites: BC(27/09),ABC(30/09,5665m),C1(03/10,6500m),C2(07/10,7100m),xxx(07,12/10)
accidents: Nothing except Cusik's respiratory infection
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  8th all 3 down to ABC. Adam and Harries to C1 (Cusik respiratory infection) and 12th in C1. 13th Harries to ABC for lack of will while Adams stayed C2. 14th Adams to C1, others part way to C1, all gear down to ABC. Winds 50-60 km/hours at C2 and "summit just a big plume." So crowded (1000 people) at ABC, took time to find space for their tents when they arrived.


expid: CHOY06334
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Romania
leaders: Alex Gavan, Sergiu Matei
sponsor: Cloud Climbing Cho Oyu Expedition 2006
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-05
smtdate: 2006-10-02
smttime: 1730
termdate: 2006-10-04
campsites: BC(05/09,5000m),ABC(09/09,5700m),C1(14/09,6400m),C2(20/09,7200m),Smt(02/10)
accidents: Matei suffered from pulmonary edema
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 08 at about 5300m.

  Gavan left C2 at 01:30 hours on Oct 2, reached summit around 17:30 hours, stayed on summit maximum 20 minutes, descended to C2 around 22:00 hours. Next day to ABC. After Gavan reached summit about 10 minutes later one climber came to summit (maybe from Poland, not sure). While ascending Gavan met many people above the rock band descending. Weather was very nice, got very nice view of Everest on the summit. Gavan saw many prayer flags and one oxygen cyclinder. 

  Matei reached up to 6800m on Sept 25 and suffered from pulmonary edema and turned around to C1 and to ABC. 

  The expedition returned to Kathmandu on Oct 5 and will leave on Oct 13.


expid: CHOY06335
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Philippines
leaders: Regidor Pablo
sponsor: First Philippino Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 2006-09-19
smtdate: 2006-10-07
termdate: 2006-10-11
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to high winds
campsites: BC(19/09),ABC(22/09,5700m),C1(28/09,6925m),C2(05/10,7200m),xxx(07/10,8100m)
accidents: Pablo frostbite
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  High point of 8100m at summit plateau.

  ABC 20 meters lower than normal site, which was so crowded there was no room for this team.

  First summit party (Anonuevo, Pablo and Pasang Nuru) left C2 at midnight of 6-7 Oct (NST), reached plateau at 8100m at 11:00 am, wind was very strong and they returned to C2; to C1 next night.

  Second summit party (Dayandon, Wenceslao and Lhakpa Gyalzen) left C2 at 2:00 am, also climbed to summit plateau, also were defeated by wind and down to C2 and to ABC next day.

  Oxygen used: members from 7400m to plateau to and in C2. 

  Pablo's boots were too small and the tips of his toes frostbitten; also his left thumb and other finger tips were frostbitten.

  Sherpas:  
    Pasang Nuru, 17/5/74, Bacha VDC, Solu, Everest 18/5/06
    Lhakpa Gyalzen, 1975, Paiya village, Jubing, Solu, Everest X3

  Non-summit team members: 
    Aquino was ABC manager, climbed to between ABC and C1 once.
    Esguerra, expedition doctor, stayed in ABC except for one trip halfway to C1.


expid: CHOY06307
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Russell Brice (Japanese group)
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Cho Oyu Expedition 2006
countries: New Zealand
bcdate: 2006-09-01
smtdate: 2006-10-02
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2006-10-05
agency: Mountain Experience
campsites:
  BC(01,04/09,5000m),ABC(06-07/09,5670m),C1(13-14/09,6400m),C2(19/09,7150m),C3(01/10,7400m),Smt(02/10)

routememo:
  Summit party left C3 at 4:00 am NST and on top at 9:00 am (70-year old Yanagisawa first) and down to C2.

  Oxygen: 
    Kobayashi none.
    All others Japanese summiters from C3 (except Yanigisawa from C1) to top to C2. 
    Sherpas none.

  Koyama had cerebral edema in BC; never went above BC and left expedition 6 Sept. Brice to C1 only.

  Sherpa summiters: 
    Karsang Namgel, 24/8/71, Thami, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X6
    Dawa Tshering, 19/11/66, Thami, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X5
    Danuru, 10/4/73, Namche, Cho Oyu X3


expid: CHOY06337
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Paul Verdier
sponsor: Chablais Venezuela Cho Oyu Expedition 2006
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-10-01
smtdate: 2006-10-13
termdate: 2006-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to very strong winds
campsites: BC(01/10,4900m),ABC(05/10,5700m),C1(12/10,6400m),xxx(13/10,7000m)
agency: Nomad Expeditions
routememo:
  High point at just below C2.

  Team left C1 at 8 am on 20 Oct. Weather was clear but windy. They got to the point where they had deposited their tents on 13 Oct, then decided to turn back due to high winds. They could not carry on to C2 as it would have been too windy to pitch tent. They picked up their tent and returned to ABC where they arrived at 4 pm. On 21 Oct Verdier and Dawa Sherpa (cook) ascended to C1 to collect tents.


expid: CHOY06338
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Ecuador
leaders: Ivan Vallejo
sponsor: Ecuadorian Expedition to Dhaulagiri
bcdate: 2006-09-14
smtdate: 2006-09-21
termdate: 2006-09-30
termnote: Terminated at 7000m due to climbing only for acclimatization for Dhaulagiri
othersmts: Attempted Dhaulagiri (DHA1-063-04)
campsites: BC(14/09),ABC(16/09,5600m),C1(28/09,6400m),xxx(21,18/09,7000m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
primid: DHA106304
routememo:
  Went to C2 site purely for acclimatization for Dhaulagiri climb on 21 and 28 Sept but didn't sleep there and back to C1. 29th in ABC. 

  30th Sept to Tingri; 30th and 1 Oct in Kathmandu.


expid: CHOY06339
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Tim Mosedale
sponsor: Cho Oyu Expedition 2006 (ICE 8000 permit)
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-02
smtdate: 2006-10-01
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2006-10-04
campsites: BC(02/09,5000m),ABC(08/09,5500m),C1(14/09,6300m),C2(18/09,6600m),C3(19/09,7000m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 7 Sept at 5300m.

  Kerr, Larsen, McGarvey, Mosedale, Tendu and Namgyal Sherpa left C3 at 11 pm NST of Sept 30. Summited on Oct 1 at 9:30 am, stayed on summit about 20 minutes, descended to C3 at 12 noon. Next day to ABC. Weather was very good, clear sky, light wind, saw good view of Everest. The expedition met lot of people descending. There may be about 70-80 people that summited on that day. The expedition returned to Kathmandu on Oct 4 and left on Oct 6.

  Lockyer went to C1 on 14 Sept, then left expedition 16 Sept because of problems back home.

  "Summit: Sherpas:
    Tshering Namgyal, aka Ang Namgyal, 14/5/84, Pangboche, Everest 19/5/06
    Lhakpa Thundu/Thudu, 20/5/70, Pangboche, Everest X4, Annapurna X1

  * Both Sherpas summited from C2 after summiting with Henry Todd's team on 30 Sept


expid: CHOY06340
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Francisco Jose Ruiz
sponsor: Expedicion Vega Baja al Cho Oyu
bcdate: 2006-09-10
smtdate: 2006-10-02
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2006-10-08
campsites: BC(10/09),ABC(12/09,5700m),C1(19/09,6400m),C2(29/09,7200m),Smt(02/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  All 4 members left C2 for top at midnight of 1-2 Oct (NST). Ruiz turned back at 8000m because too slow due to bad cough which injured his ribs; others on top between 2:00 and 3:00 pm (NST) and all returned to C2 to spend the night.


expid: CHOY06341
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Luis Marja Barbero
sponsor: Alcoy First 8000 - to Cho Oyu
bcdate: 2006-09-16
smtdate: 2006-10-02
termdate: 2006-10-08
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to strong winds
campsites: BC(16/09),ABC(12/09,5700m),C1(29/09,6400m),C2(01/10,7200m),xxx(02/10,7500m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 occupied on 29 Sept. 

  On 30th Barbero climbed to the seracs at 6700m, then abandoned the climb and went down to ABC. 

  Menendez moved up to C2 on 1st Oct and on 2nd Oct to site of C3 but did not stay there; she went down to ABC on 3rd Oct and climb finished.


expid: CHOY06342
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Javier Martinez
sponsor: Expedicion Navarra al Cho Oyu 2006
bcdate: 2006-09-10
smtdate: 2006-10-03
termdate: 2006-10-08
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to strong winds
campsites: BC(10/09),ABC(12/09,5700m),C1(16/09,6400m),C2(28/09,7200m),C3(03/10,7500m),xxx(7500m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  All 3 members reached C2 on 28th Sept then down to ABC on 29th. 30th in ABC. 1st Oct to C1, 2nd to C2, 3rd to C3, but 100 km/hour wind that night (at 3:00 am on 4th) sent them down to ABC; 2 tents taken away by the wind at C1.


expid: DHA106301
peakid: DHA1
year: 2006
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Ryszard Pawlowski
sponsor: Mountain Dhaulagiri Expedition
bcdate: 2006-09-28
smtdate: 2006-10-06
termdate: 2006-10-12
termnote: Abandoned at 7250m due to strong wind
campsites: BC(28/09,4600m),C1(30/09,5600m),C2(01/10,6400m),C3(05/10,6900m),xxx(06/10,7250m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal BC site.

  On 6 Oct Murawicz and Pawlowski climbed Swiss's expedition's rope together on NE Ridge but stopped at 7250m because of strong wind blowing away Swiss tent at 7400m. Pawlowski then decided his team should go to C1 to wait for weather to improve. 8th no better so down to BC and again wind very strong. 

  This autumn very dangerous icefall.


expid: DHA106302
peakid: DHA1
year: 2006
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Kamil Bortel
sponsor: High-Tec High Point Dhaulagiri Expedition 2006
bcdate: 2006-09-27
smtdate: 2006-10-12
termdate: 2006-10-02
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to deep snow and strong winds
campsites: BC(27/09,4700m),C1(29/09,5600m),C2A(30/09,6600m),C2B(10/10,6900m),xxx(12/10,7900m)
agency: Nepal Trans Himalayan Explorer
routememo:
  C1  slightly below NE Ridge
  C2A on NE Ridge
  C2B on NE Ridge
  High point at NE Ridge.

  High on ridge deep snow and always windy. 12 Oct 3 members up from C2B for top at 1:00 am and Langr and Bortel stepped at 7800m because deep snow and strong wind at 11:30 am where Jaros, faster climber had gone to 7900m at 11:00 am and joined them and said no time to go to top, snow and wind conditions bad and all should go down; they did, and climb finished.


expid: DHA106304
peakid: DHA1
year: 2006
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Ecuador
leaders: Ivan Vallejo
sponsor: Ecuadorian Expedition to Dhaulagiri
approach: By air to Pokhara and Jomsom
bcdate: 2006-10-07
smtdate: 2006-10-17
termdate: 2006-10-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to dangerous snow conditions
othersmts: Attempted Cho Oyu (CHOY-063-38)
campsites: BC(07/10,4600m),C1(16/10,5500m),xxx(17/10,6400m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Went to C1 site on 8 Oct to leave gear then to BC and waited one week for weather to improve (main problem was strong wind). 16th started summit push from BC. 17th reached 6400m (C2 site), but snow very deep and danger of avalanching high, so down to BC and climb finished.

  Sete Tamang, 30/4/70, Gorakhani-8, Solu, no 8000ers


expid: DHA106305
peakid: DHA1
year: 2006
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Alexei Gorbatenkov
sponsor: Russians on Dhaulagiri I
bcdate: 2006-09-27
smtdate: 2006-10-09
termdate: 2006-10-11
termnote: Abandoned at 8050m due to strong wind and low supplies of food
campsites: BC(27/09,5600m),Biv1(28/09,6000m),Biv2(29/09,6700m),xxx(09/10,8050m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC   at normal site (same as others this season)
  Biv1 at slightly higher than NE Col
  Biv2 bottom of NE Ridge's steep section
  High point at NE Ridge.

  30 Sept both members went 200m above C2 to acclimatize and then down to BC and rested at BC. Swiss expedition's forecast said weather good on 4 Oct; Russians to 6100m that day to biv. 5th Oct windy went to 6400m to biv. 6th Oct up to 6900m biv and 7th Oct left tent and went to 7400m without tent, but took Swiss tent (with Swiss permission), fixing rope for them. 8th biv 7400m to rest. 9th up at 7:30 am. 8:00 am Gorbatenkov turned back to 7400m because fingers and toes cold; Shamalo up to 8050m on ridge, then saw summit. 

  10th both to BC. Decided on 9th, wind getting stronger at higher altitudes; and they were tired, food running out.


expid: DHA106303
peakid: DHA1
year: 2006
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Michel Wirth
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Dhaulagiri Expedition 2006
countries: USA
approach: Bus to Pokhara, plane to Jomsom, Yak Kharka->Dhampus
bcdate: 2006-09-06
smtdate: 2006-09-30
termdate: 2006-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to jet stream, bad weather, and lots of snow
campsites: BC(06/09,4650m),C1(14/09,5700m),C2(15/09,6600m),C3(29/09,7300m),xxx(30/09,7400m)
agency: Iceland Trekking (Dorje)
routememo:
  Wirth, Danima and Norbu Sherpa left C3 at 05:00 hours on Sept 30, reached 7400m; started very strong wind and snow conditions were very bad with deep snow, so turned around to C3, packed up and descended to C1 at 12 noon. 

  Team's C1 was totally destroyed by avalanche on around 23. The team trekked down to Beni and bus ridge to Kathmandu on Oct 11; will leave on Oct 16.

  Balmer climbed up to 6600m on Sept 15.

  Clark couple climbed up to 5000m on Sept 14; they left BC on 15 and left Kathmandu on Oct 12.
   
  Kuhn and Martig both reached 7300m on Oct 29; they were very tired.

  Sherpas:
    Da Nima, 18/6/72, Bhakanje, Everest X3 including S-N traverse 17/05/06
    Pemba Nurbu, 6/12/78, Lelep-9, Taplejung, Xixabangma Spr 2005


expid: DOMK06301
peakid: DOMK
year: 2006
route1: S Face-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Carlos Soria
sponsor: Spanish Geographical Society Dome Kang Expedition 2006
bcdate: 2006-09-19
smtdate: 2006-10-04
termdate: 2006-10-09
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m
campsites: BC(19/09,5350m),C1(22/09,5900m),C2(30/09,6200m),xxx(04/10,6500m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Rai)
routememo:
  BC at north of junction of Kangchenjunga and West Langpo Glacier
  C1 at Jonsang Glacier
  C2 at below SE Ridge and northwest Jonsang La

  Very narrow ridge covered by thin powder snow, which prevented good belay. North side very steep and avalanche prone so impossible. Key was to be able to climb ridge, which would have been possible if could use ice screw or snowbar. In attempt to reach summit from 30 Sept was 3 days fixing ropes and climbing couloir leading to ridge. Reached ridge 22 Sept, climbed ridge for 2 days. On 6 Oct from C1 in 4-5 hours by Lagunilla and Salas.

  If return to this mountain, they would want to approach from Tibet or Sikkim to West Ridge.

  Sherpas:  
    Muktu Lhakpa, 21/8/72, Tashigaon, Everest X2
    Lhakpa Nurbu, 14/2/83, Makalu-5, Everest 18/5/06


expid: MANA06301
peakid: MANA
year: 2006
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Noel Urban
sponsor: French on Manaslu
approach: Gorkha->Samagaon
bcdate: 2006-09-11
smtdate: 2006-09-30
termdate: 2006-10-03
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to bad acclimatization
campsites: BC(11/09,4700m),C1(16/09,5600m),C2(21/09,6500m),C3(29/09,7300m),xxx(30/09,7600m)
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  Cadet left C3 at 7 am on 29 Sept. Weather was clear, but very windy. He reached high point at 10 am. He was not feeling well and as he was alone he turned back. He got to C2 at 12 noon and stayed night. Next day BC where Urban and Brun were waiting.

  Urban reached C2 on 21 Sept on acclimatization trip. On summit bid he got to 5800m on 28 Sept. He was not feeling well and turned back to BC. 

  Brun reached 6900m on 29 Sept. He was on his way to C3 with Cadet but turned back at 1 pm as he had upset stomach. He reached BC at 7 pm.

  After they left BC they did Manaslu trek. They did not use their skis due to bad snow conditions.


expid: MANA06302
peakid: MANA
year: 2006
route1: NE Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Thomas Strausz
sponsor: Austrian on Manaslu
ascent1: 93rd
approach: Samagaon by helicopter
bcdate: 2006-09-09
smtdate: 2006-09-30
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2006-10-05
campsites: BC(09/09,4750m),C2(17/09,6450m),C3(29/09,7300m),Smt(30/09)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC before the beginning of Glacier.

  Strausz left C3 at 07:00 hours, summited at 12:00 hours, stayed on summit 20 minutes and descended to C2 at 15:30 hours. Next day to BC. Weather was cloudy and strong wind on the summit. About 30 minutes ahead of him Japanese group with oxygen were on summit. Nobody summited the mountain the mountain on that day after him.

  Strausz trekked down to Arughat, took ridge to Dhading and from there bus ride to Kathmandu. He arrived Kathmandu on October 10 and will leave on 12.


expid: MANA06303
peakid: MANA
year: 2006
route1: NE Face
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Pavel Matousek
sponsor: Manaslu 2006 Light Expedition
ascent1: 95th-96th
approach: Samagaon by helicopter
bcdate: 2006-09-09
smtdate: 2006-10-02
termdate: 2006-10-10
campsites: BC(09/09,4800m),C1(15/09,5700m),C2(18/09,6900m),C3(01/10,7300m),Smt(02,04/10)
accidents: Matousek last finger of left hand seriously frostbitten
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Oct 2 Hofmannova and Kolar left C3 at 07:00 hours, reached summit at 16:00 hours, stayed on summit about 45 minutes, descended to C3 at 19:00 hours. Next day to BC. Summit day weather was clear but windy. There was nobody else on the summit on that day. 

  Oct 3 Matousek and Novakova left C3 at 05:00 hours. Novakova had to turn around from 7600m to C3 waiting for Matousek to return to C3. Matousek summited at 20:00 hours. It was windy and started snowfall. He stayed on summit about 20 minutes, descended to C3 around 06:00 hours of Oct 4, stayed at C3 that day. Next day C2. It was very cold, strong wind. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on Oct 11 by helicoptr and will leave on Oct 16.

  Churavy went up to 7050m; he was tired and gave up further climbing.


expid: MERR06301
peakid: MERR
year: 2006
route1: SE Face-ENE Ridge
nation: Denmark
leaders: Claus Ostergaard
sponsor: Danish Merra Expedition
ascent1: 1st
approach: Ghunsa north on east side of Ghunsa Khola
bcdate: 2006-10-14
smtdate: 2006-10-18
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2006-10-19
campsites: BC(14/10,4040m),ABC(15/10,4705m),C1(16/10,5445m),Smt(18/10)
achievment: 1st official ascent
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  BC  across river from Kanbachen village
  ABC just above Khumbakarna Glacier, just NE of point 4462
  C1  on southern end of Merra Glacier.

  17th Oct rested and 18th Ostergaard left C1 at 5:30 am climbed to Merra's summit. Both members climbed on right side of SE Buttress, crossed Merra Glacier at about 5650m from west side to east side of glacier. Climbed small gully to SE Face at 5800m on face. Ortmann very tired and went only to 6000m on face, going very slowly, where Ostergaard met him on descent from top (had climbed face to northeast (6227m on HMG Map, 6160m according to Ostergaard's GPS) and along main summit's ENE Ridge. "Quite easy" climb; only tricky section was 20m rock slab just below east summit. Ridge covered in snow. On top at 10:00 am. Ortmann had altitude problem that slowed him; both down to ABC at 4:45 pm and climb over. 19th left ABC and down to Ghunsa.


expid: NUPT06301
peakid: NUPT
year: 2006
route1: S Face
nation: France
leaders: Patrice Glairon-Rappaz
sponsor: Glairon-Rappaz Nuptse Expedition
approach: Dingboche->Bibre & north along west side of Nuptse Glacier
bcdate: 2006-09-29
smtdate: 2006-10-14
termdate: 2006-10-23
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to strong wind
campsites: BC(29/09,5350m),C1(04/10,5550m),xxx(14/10,6600m)
agency: Trinetra Adventure
routememo:
  BC  on west side of Nuptse Glacier
  C1  near on end of Nuptse Glacier
  xxx on South Face.

  From C1 made 3 bivs at 6100m: at 6100m 6 or 7 Oct to acclimatization and down to BC and 12 Oct to 6400m; 13th to 6500m; 14th to 6600m and down to BC because of wind (planned to biv at 7000m that day, also for acclimatization). Stayed a week in BC waiting for wind to drop but stayed strong (50-60 km/hr). 21 Oct to C1, 22nd down to BC and climb finished.

  Good route for solo ascent, ice on face, no dangerous seracs.


expid: PANB06301
peakid: PANB
year: 2006
route1: W Face-N Ridge from NE side
nation: Japan
leaders: Yoshimi Kato
sponsor: Panbari Himal Expedition of Japanese Alpine Club 2006
ascent1: 1st
bcdate: 2006-09-07
smtdate: 2006-09-29
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2006-10-04
campsites: BC(07/09,4865m),C1(09/09,5235m),C2(18/09,5740m),C3(23/09,6290m),Smt(29/09)
achievment: 1st attempt and 1st ascent
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at Fukam Glacier east of mountain
  C1 below Icefall of Fukam Glacier
  C2 in icefall towards its top
  C3 near top of icefall (west of Fukam Glacier).

  Had to fix 1000m rope in icefall across many crevasses and 150m above Icefall between C2 to C3. Left C3 at 3:30 am and on top at 9:30 am in not difficult climb above icefall. Returned to C3 at about 2:00 pm to sleep. 30 Sept to C1 taking down all rope with them. 1 Oct to BC. 

  In final day's climb to top, went from [northeast side across col to] West Face to North Ridge at about 6500m and thence south on ridge to summit ridge flat but in six places had steps about 40m high (no rope left to fix here). While making route above C3, heavy snowfall broke 1 tent in C1. On summit day snow 30 cm deep.


expid: PUMO06301
peakid: PUMO
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Matthias Robl
sponsor: DAV Summit Club Pumori Expedition 2006
bcdate: 2006-10-07
smtdate: 2006-10-14
termdate: 2006-10-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6180m due to dangerous snow conditions above
campsites: BC(07/10,5350m),ABC(10/04,5635m),C1(14/10,6180m),xxx(14/10,6180m)
accidents: Kieffer had bronchitis/pneumonia
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC  at normal site
  ABC at South Face
  C1  at start of SW Ridge (not occupied).

  At C1 site got walkie-talkie message from member in BC, who saw four Sherpas on normal route of SE Face hit by falling ice seracs; thus Sherpas did not want to continue and also saw above snow overhanging route at 6200m and above that would have to go over onto north side and bad snow there. So C1 not occupied and down to BC. 

  15th carried Sherpa's body down to helicopter landing site (Sherpas of another expedition on SE Face). 

  Binder and Kieffer arrived BC 13 Oct and went to ABC only.

  Sherpas were:
    Cheddar Sherpa, Dec 62, Makalu, Everest X2
    Singi Lama, 22/10/69, Kulu, Sindhupalchowk
    Changba Sherpa, 1966-67, Taksindu, Solu


expid: TILI06301
peakid: TILI
year: 2006
route1: Glacial ridge leading to SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Claudio Rosset
sponsor: Tilicho 2006
approach: Kali Gandaki to Lete, SE to Deurali, Karki & E to BC on small stream
bcdate: 2006-09-16
smtdate: 2006-10-02
termdate: 2006-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 5600m due to objective danger (bad rock quality)
campsites: BC(16/09,4200m),C1(19,25/09,5000m),xxx(02/10,5600m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC at 20 minutes from Annapurna BC
  C1 near east side of glacier west of summit & east side of rock ridge
  High point at glacial ridge.

  From C1 descended next day to BC because rain began and it lasted 4 days. Searched for safe way from C1 but in glacier area many falling ice seracs. Climbed rock for ridge in glacier area to 5600m - other third small couloir but vertical step blocked way at about 5400m. Then climbed West Face of glacier's ridge, put 250m rope here. Rock bad quality, so climbed 100m of ridge but dangerously bad quality rock. Descended from about 5600m. All south side is too dangerous from avalanching and bad rock.


expid: TILI06302
peakid: TILI
year: 2006
route1: NE Spur-N Ridge
nation: Slovakia
leaders: Marian Sajnoha
sponsor: Slovak Mountaineering Expedition Tilicho Peak
ascent1: 31st
bcdate: 2006-10-02
smtdate: 2006-10-14
smttime: 1115
termdate: 2006-10-17
campsites: BC(02/10,5111m),C1(08/10,5800m),C2(13/10,6500m),Smt(14/10)
accidents: Prokop fatal fall
agency: Trekking International
routememo:
  BC at north of mountain (not on lake - French BC).

  Summit trio on top at 11:15 am of 14 Oct. In descent Prokop fell 500-600m into crevasse from 6900m; no rope fixed above C2; rope was fixed from bottom of NE Spur to junction with N Ridge. Descent route deviated slightly from ascent route because of bad ice from 6700m to top and it was in this area Prokop fell.


expid: TSAR06301
peakid: TSAR
year: 2006
route1: SW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Goetz Wiegand
sponsor: German-Romanian Himalayan Expedition 2006
countries: Romania
approach: Jomsom->Marpha->Dhampus Pass
bcdate: 2006-10-04
smtdate: 2006-10-06
termdate: 2006-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6386m due to difficult cornice between Tashi Kang and Tsartse
campsites: BC(04/10,4800m),C1(06/10,5500m),xxx(11/10,6386m)
agency: Multi Adventure
othersmts:
  Climbed Tashi Kang (TASH-063-02) on Oct 11 and Thapa Peak on Oct 3, both peaks by Lacatusu, Meutzner and Wiegand (and both climbs unauthorized)

routememo:
  BC southwest of Tashi Kang and Tsartse in Hidden Valley
  C1 near lake south of Sandacche Himal on Sandachhe Glacier.

  From Jomsom did recce up Syam Khola northwest and camped at 5400m near khola on 28th Sept and decided not possible to climb mountain this side because rock bottom. 29th to Jomsom and 30th south to Marpha and then on 1st Oct camped at foot of Thapa Peak from Thapa Pass. 3rd "climbed"/trekked up Thapa Peak to see Tsartse and to acclimatize. 4th through Dhampus Pass down to Hidden Valley to BC. Met no human beings on this trip. 7th went to Tashi Kang to 100m below summit as safest fastest way to get to Tsartse. Weather generally clear but always windy. Down to BC on 7th. 10th back to C1, 11th to Tashi Kang summit via SW Ridge. Saw that ridge connecting Tashi Kang to Tsartse was heavily corniced, so down West Face of Tashi Kang to col at 6177m between Tashi Kang and unnamed peak of 6403m north-northwest of Tashi Kang at 1:30 pm via SE Face of Peak 6403 on snow and ice only and back to Col, then down a face and went west to main valley west of Sandachhe. Waterfall blocked them, so slept in valley at about 5300m. 12th found an exit on left of waterfall and down to Hidden Valley and then South to BC. 

  Meutzner left 15th because of knee problem and weather conditions. 15th Goetz and Lacatusu to C1 to try to climb Tsartse via three 6000m peaks, but Goetz Wiegand had stomach problem so night of 15th decided climb finished. 16th to BC.


expid: TASH06301
peakid: TASH
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge?
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Alain Nikles
sponsor: Tashi Kang 2006
approach: Jomsom->Marpha->Tukuche->Dhampus Pass
smtdate: 2006-10-22
campsites: Pre-BC(22/10,4900m)
accidents: Fatal avalanche on return trek
agency: K2 Summit Treks
routememo:
  17 Oct Kathmandu/Pokhara, 18 Oct Pokhara/Jomsom to Marpha. 19 Oct to Tukuche village to meet kitchen staff and expedition loads. 20th northwest along ridge to 3800m north ridge. 21st left camp and walked up to 4400m to acclimatize. 22nd took up camp to 4900m east of Dhampus Pass and camped there. 23rd now had snowed in night and deep snow, so turned then back to Marpha for the night. 24th decided to abandon idea of climbing Tashi Kang with no improvement in weather and to trek to Muktinath and then back to Jomsom for plane to Pokhara and Kathmandu. 

  Went to Kagbeni to sleep. 25th to Muktinath; camped at 5100m between Muktinath and Thorang La. 26th went up onto a ridge above Thorung La for plan to make film; in this party was 2 Nikles cousins, Serap Jangbu and Kancha Nuru Sherpa; just below ridge was area of windblown unstable snow and this snow avalanched on top of them at 5700m and carried them down 300m on to mixed snow and rock. Alain got broken left leg, torn ligament in ankle and broken jaw; Thomas also broken leg and damaged head, Serap broken left coccyx 'tail'; Kancha Nuru broken bone in thigh. Alain and Serap managed to get down to valley and Israeli and German trekkers came along with their Sherpas and porters who brought down Thomas and Kancha. Thomas showing increasing signs of mental problems; foreign trekkers went to Muktinath to call Swiss insurance company for rescue but in meantime Thomas died that afternoon. Alain asked people in Muktinath to bring team's tent up to them and spent night where they were. Next day army helicopter brought them to Kathmandu in clear and windless weather.

  Sherpas:
    Kancha Nuru, 6/9/63, Khumjung, Cho Oyu X2
    Serap Jangbu, 25/7/69, Khumjung, Annapurna X1, Everest X2, etc, etc


expid: MANA06304
peakid: MANA
year: 2006
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Atsushi Yamamoto
sponsor: Manaslu Guide Expedition
ascent1: 92nd
approach: Samagaon by helicopter
bcdate: 2006-09-04
smtdate: 2006-09-30
smttime: 1120
termdate: 2006-10-04
campsites: BC(04/09,5100m),C1(07/09,5900m),C2(15/09,6900m),C3(29/09,7500m),Smt(30/09)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Summit team left C3 at 5:20 am, apart from Yamamoto and 5 Sherpas, who left from C2 at 5 am. They caught up with rest of team just below summit. Weather clear but windy. Stayed on top for 10 minutes, then descended to C2, where they arrived at 4 pm. Next day BC and then Samagaon. Returned to Kathmandu by helicopter on 6 Oct.

  Kurihara reached 6300m on 16 Sept, turned back due to fatigue.
  Uchida reached 6300m on 10 Sept, not feeling well, maybe pulmonary edema.
  Yamashita reached 7100m on 2 Oct, turned back due to altitude problems.

  Oxygen: Fujimori, Nakajima, Usui from C1 to summit to C2; Kadoya, Kato, Yamamoto and all climbing Sherpas C2 to summit to C2.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Rita, 4/9/71, Phortse
      1998 - Everest North - IMG
      2001 - Everest North - US Team
      2004 - Everest South - Chilean team
      Lhotse, Anna I, Cho Oyu

    Lhakpa Nuru, 18/6/80, Phortse
      Spring 2006 - Lhotse - Chilean team

    Chewang Lendu, 19/4/80, Phortse
      Spring 2006 - Lhotse - Chilean team

    Phu Tashi, 18/5/73, Phortse 
      2004 - Everest South - Chilean team
      2006 - Lhotse        - Chilean team

    Tul Bahadur Tamang, 30/08/66, Deusa, Solukhumbu
      2000 & 2004 - Cho Oyu
      2002 & 2006 - Everest North - Japanese team
      1998        - Dhaulagiri I


expid: CHOY06343
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: SW Face
route2: NW side (to 7000m)
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Uros Samec
sponsor: Slovenian Cho Oyu 2006
bcdate: 2006-09-12
smtdate: 2006-10-02
smttime: 1545
termdate: 2006-10-07
campsites: BC(12/09),Biv(02/10),Smt(02-03/10)
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  Email from Uros Samec to Miss Hawley - 17 Oct 2006

  Our team attempted (and climbed) South West Face. Pavle Kozjek, Emil Tratnik and Marjan Kovac started a new route at left side. The same day Uros Samec and Alijaz Tratnik started up the Kurtyka-Loretan-Troillet route, but because of bad conditions traversed to the left to join the new line. New line has difficulties 50-60 degrees with one pitch on ice WI 4+. Pavle bypassed this pitch on rock UIAA V-. We fixed no rope. While Kozjek continued to the top the same day, completing  his ascent in fourteen and a half hours (he reached base camp thirty hours after departing), the other four slept above the junction with the normal route and reached the summit next day. Samec and Aljaz Tratnik climbed in alpine style, spending the night in their own tent at C3 on the normal route. Kovac and Tratnik used the team's acclimatization tent at C2.

  We acclimatized on normal route, first we slept at C1, second time at C2.
  We first slept at ABC at 15 Sept, C1 at 17 Sept, C2 at 21 Sept.
  C1 at 6400m, C2 at 7000m.

  Summit - Pavle Kozjek on Oct 2, 18:00 Chinese time (15:45 NST)
           Uros Samec, Aljaz Tratnik, Oct 3 at 12:00 Chinese time (09:45 NST)
           Emil Tratnik, Marjan Kovac, Oct 3, at 16:00 Chinese time (13:45 NST)

  Peter Poljanec some problems with altitude, so his highest point was 6600m. Urban Golob had high altitude cerebral edema. Miha Habjan had pulmonary edema. Both of them returned to Slovenia from Chinese camp, so they didn't climb on the mountain. Their highest point was Chinese base camp, more precisely 300 meters higher; they made acclimatization above Chinese base camp.

  We left ABC on Oct 7, returned to Kathmandu on Oct 10.


expid: CHOY06344
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Dusan Rauter
sponsor: Cho Oyu Expedition 2006
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-17
smtdate: 2006-10-06
smttime: 1315
termdate: 2006-10-11
campsites: BC(17/09,5000m),ABC(19/09,5700m),C1(23/09,6300m),C2(28/09,7000m),C3(06/10,7500m),Smt(06,08/10)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 17 Sept.

  On Oct 6 Kovelj left C2 at 06:30 hours (NST), reached summit at 13:15 hours, stayed on summit 5 minutes, descended to C1 at 18:00 hours. Kovelj was the last one to summit on that day. He saw Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Shishapangma. Weather was clear but windy may be 60-80 km/hr. Saw on the summit oxygen cylinder, one pole with flag, prayer flags. 

  On Oct 8 Karnicnik and Rauter left C3 at 08:00 hours (NST), summited at 16:00 hours, stayed for 15 minutes, descended to C3 at 20:00 hours. Summit was clear, saw oxygen cyclinders, prayer flags. It was very windy, saw Shishapagma but Everest side was covered with clouds. Pawel Michalski (Poland) summited with Karnicnik and Rauter. Another Italian climber Marabotto who shared the Slovenian tent at C3 also left C3 at the same time, but he had to turn around from 8000m due to exhaustion.

  The Slovenian team returned to Kathmandu on Oct 12 and trying to leave on Oct 16.


expid: CHOY06345
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Manuel Hernandez
sponsor: Spaniard on Cho Oyu
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-11
smtdate: 2006-10-04
termdate: 2006-10-07
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to bad weather, strong winds
campsites: BC(11/09,4900m),ABC(13/09,5700m),C1(21/09,6400m),C2(25/09,7100m),xxx(04/10,8000m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Hernandez left C2 at midnight on 4 Oct together with Tosas and Carrascoso from another Spanish expedition, led by Jordi Tosas. The winds were very strong (up to approx. 70 km/hr). He arrived at about 8000m at 4:30 am (NST), but decided to turn back due to the strong wind. He packed up C2 and C1 on way down and descended to ABC, where he arrived at 4:30 pm.


expid: TASH06302
peakid: TASH
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Goetz Wiegand
sponsor: German-Romanian Himalayan Expedition 2006
ascent1: 4th
countries: Romania
approach: Jomsom->Marpha->Dhampus Pass
bcdate: 2006-10-04
smtdate: 2006-10-06
termdate: 2006-10-17
campsites: BC(04/10,4800m),C1(06/10,5500m),Smt(11/10)
agency: Multi Adventure
primid: TSAR06301
othersmts:
  Attempted (TSAR-063-02) on Oct 11; climbed Thapa Peak on Oct 3 by Lacatusu, Meutzner and Wiegand (climb unauthorized)

routememo:
  BC southwest of Tashi Kang and Tsartse in Hidden Valley
  C1 near lake south of Sandacche Himal on Sandachhe Glacier.

  From Jomsom did recce up Syam Khola northwest and camped at 5400m near khola on 28th Sept and decided not possible to climb mountain this side because rock bottom. 29th to Jomsom and 30th south to Marpha and then on 1st Oct camped at foot of Thapa Peak from Thapa Pass. 3rd "climbed"/trekked up Thapa Peak to see Tsartse and to acclimatize. 4th through Dhampus Pass down to Hidden Valley to BC. Met no human beings on this trip. 7th went to Tashi Kang to 100m below summit as safest fastest way to get to Tsartse. Weather generally clear but always windy. Down to BC on 7th.  
  10th back to C1, 11th to Tashi Kang summit via SW Ridge. Saw that ridge connecting Tashi Kang to Tsartse was heavily corniced, so down West Face of Tashi Kang to col at 6177m between Tashi Kang and unnamed peak of 6403m north-northwest of Tashi Kang at 1:30 pm via SE Face of Peak 6403 on snow and ice only and back to Col, then down a face and went west to main valley west of Sandachhe. Waterfall blocked them, so slept in valley at about 5300m. 12th found an exit on left of waterfall and down to Hidden Valley and then South to BC. 

  Meutzner left 15th because of knee problem and weather conditions. 15th Goetz and Lacatusu to C1 to try to climb Tsartse via three 6000m peaks, but Goetz Wiegand had stomach problem so night of 15th decided climb finished. 16th to BC.


expid: CHOY06346
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Sergio Martini
sponsor: Italian on Cho Oyu
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-14
smtdate: 2006-10-01
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2006-10-08
campsites: BC(14/09,5000m),ABC(16/09,5600m),C1(21/09,6400m),C2(29/09,7200m),Smt(01/10)
achievment: 3rd ascent to Cho Oyu
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on Sept 15 at 5300m.

  Martini left C2 at 01:30 hours of Oct 1, summited at 09:00 hours, stayed on summit about 50 minutes, descended to C2 at 14:00 hours. Next day to ABC. Martini returned to Kathmandu on Oct 9 and will leave on Oct 16. 

  Saw good view of Everest and other mountains. When asked whether Camilo Lopez summited, Martini said that he met Lopez descending between C2 and C3 and Lopez told Martini that he is going down because he is suffereing from stomach problem and vomiting. Martini said it is not possible that Lopez summited at all. He also asked me to check with Italian climber Svevo Mondino as Lopez and Mondino were climbing together.


expid: MANA06305
peakid: MANA
year: 2006
route1: E Ridge (to 6200m)
route2: NE Face (to 6800m)
route3: NE Face (to 7500m)
route4: S Ridge (to 6400m)
nation: France
leaders: Yannick Graziani
sponsor: French Manaslu South Ridge
countries: Denmark
bcdate: 2006-09-26
smtdate: 2006-10-12
termdate: 2006-10-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to bad snow conditions
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Rai)
campsites:
  BC(26/09,4250m),C1(11/10,6800m),xxx(12/10,7500m),xxx(7500m);C1(24/10,5700m),xxx(25/10,6400m),xxx(6400m)

routememo:
  French-Danish Manaslu - Autumn 2006 - 1 Nov 2006

  Team's goal was to make a pure alpine-style ascent of Manaslu and their preferred route was the South Ridge direct. Other teams had climbed the South Ridge but had not stayed on the ridge all the way, as this party intended to do.

  The team made their base camp southeast of the mountain in the Pungyen Valley at 4250m on about 26 Sept. They first did some acclimatization climbing on the East Ridge and normal route (NE Face): Norrselet and Graziani went to the East Ridge, slept two nights at 6200m, so they went no higher. At the same time the other three members, Trommsdorff, Wagnon and De Choudens, acclimatized to 6800m, stayed there one night and down to normal route's base camp, where they were reunited with Norrselet and Graziani on 10th October. On the 11th the whole team ascended the normal route to 6800m, on the 12th to 7500m, then back to their original base camp where all their things were.

  Now they were ready to make their pure alpine-style ascent of the South Ridge despite the fact that access to the ridge was exposed to avalanching. For this climb they needed good weather, but on about the 20th there was "a big dump of snow." They decided on the 23rd to abandon the South Ridge and make their summit bid via the normal NE Face route. They dismantled their base camp and moved it to the normal base camp site.

  On the 23rd they were in Samagaon village, on the 24th they went direct to C1 at 5700m, and on the 25th they went to 6400m. Here they were stopped by deep snow and risk from slab avalanches (they triggered one such avalanche themselves). They descended to base camp the same day; the climb finished.

  The South Ridge direct is a "nice" route. To gain the ridge at all, the climber has to overcome a heavily corniced section, and the ridge itself has difficult rock at 7400-7500m. It is a "very committed route" from which they would have descended by the normal route.


expid: MANA06306
peakid: MANA
year: 2006
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Yoshitomi Okura
sponsor: Japan Mt Manaslu Expedition 2006
ascent1: 94th
approach: Samagaon by helicopter
bcdate: 2006-09-11
smtdate: 2006-10-01
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2006-09-11
campsites: BC(11/09,4900m),C1(15/09,5800m),C2(19/09,6800m),C3(21/09,7450m),Smt(01/10)
achievment: Japanese classic route with little deviation
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  Ogawa, Okuka, Yamanasi, Serap Jangbu, Nima Tenzi, Pemba Gyalzen, Nima Gyalzen and Wangche Sherpa left C3 at 04:15 hours, reached to summit at 10:00 hours, stayed on summit about an hour. Due to narrow path to summit the team members had to wait for each of the members to return from summit. The team descended to C2 at 14:20 hours. Next day to BC. There was not any one on the summit on that day. Weather was very good, clear sky and no wind. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on Oct 11 by helicopter from Samagaon and will leave Nepal on Oct 15.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Serap Jangbu, 25/7/69, Khumjung, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X2, etc, etc
    Nima Tenzi/Tenji/Tenzing, 14/8/80, Beding, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1
    Pemba Gyalzen, 22/7/69, Thami, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X4
    Nima Gyalzen, 18/5/76, Beding, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X1
    Wangche/Ongje, 22/8/83, Gaurishankar-2, Cho Oyu 26/5/06


expid: EVER06301
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Wally Berg
sponsor: Berg Adventures Everest 2006
countries: Canada
bcdate: 2006-09-09
smtdate: 2006-10-18
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2006-10-22
agency: Peak Promotion
campsites:
  Sherpas-BC(24/08),Mbrs-BC(09/09),C1(17/09,6000m),C2(01/10,6425m),C3(06/10,7315m),C4(17/10,7800m),Smt(18/10)

routememo:
  This team's Sherpas fixed Icefall, not Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee and finished the job on 8 Sept, the day before team arrived and that enabled team to go for very good wind on 18th Oct. On summit day Sherpas Pemba Dorje, Pasang Tenzing, Da Nuru and Dawa Tshering had left C4 at 11:30 pm to fix rpe and break trail. Summit party left C4 1:45 am members (11:30 pm of 17th by 4 Sherpas), on top 10:00 to 10:54 am (10:00 am summiters stayed on top till others arrived). Weather good including mild wind. Kit DesLouriers, Chin and Rob DesLauriers skied from summit to Hillary Step and then down fixed lines with skis on but not using them or even taking skis off (Kit) and stayed at C4 that night (Chin and Rob DesLauriers) last 300 ft to C4. 19th three skiers skied from C4 to top of Icefall, only 5000 ft descent down Lhotse Face to left side of Geneva Spur; return to C4 by Kit 3:30 pm to 4:45 pm (Hahn). Skiers on 19th did Lhotse Face in 1-1/2 hours and after lunch at C2 in bad weather weather in BC 6:00 pm; on 19th Brown and Sherpas summiters slept in C2 and 20th to BC.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Da Nuru, 19/5/59, Phortse, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X3, Makalu X1
    Da Sonam, 1965, Pangboche, Everest X5
    Dawa Tshering, 24 years old, Khunde, Kangchenjunga X1
    Kami Sherpa, 31/3/78, Jantarkhani, Everest X4
    Mingma Ongel, 27/3/78, Phortse, Everest X3
    Lhakpa Chhiri, 17/11/74, Pangboche, Everest X3, K2 X1
    Lhakpa Gelje, 25/1/72, Tapting, Everest X2
    Pemba Dorje, 1961, Pangboche, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X2
    Pasang Tenzing, 21/1/78, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X1

  Non-summiting members:
    Boni reached C3 3 Oct immediately down to C3 and left expedition 8 Oct.
    Berg to C2 once, led team from BC.
    
  Oxygen: Mingma Ongel slept in C3 and in C4 to top and in C4, and other Sherpas in C4 to top and in C4; members slept on it in C3 to top to and in C4 to C3 except Hahn, who stopped at C4.

  All of team's 13 Sherpas were still at BC waiting for Koreans to finish and then clear icefall ropes and ladders.


expid: EVER06302
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Face (Japanese & Hornbein Couloirs)
nation: Spain
leaders: Alberto Inurrategi
sponsor: Spaniards on Everest
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-08-26
smtdate: 2006-10-03
termdate: 2006-10-07
termnote: Abandoned at 8500m due to exhaustion
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Parajuli)
campsites:
  BC(26/08),ABC(29/08,5600m),C1(06/09,5900m),Biv1(30/09,6100m),Biv2(01/10,7200m),Biv3(02/10,7950m),xxx(3/10,8500m)

routememo:
  BC  at normal BC site
  ABC at Rongbuk Glacier
  C1  at bottom of North Face
  Biv 1 at beginning of North Face
  Biv 2 above Japanese Couloir
  Biv 3 at bottom of Hornbein Couloir
  High point near top of Hornbein Couloir.

  From C1 to acclimatize went all the way around Changtse to reach North Col because direct line very dangerous from avalanching. 16 Sept slept at Col. On 20 Sept from ABC to Tashigaon Village in Tibet to rest. 23rd to ABC. Waited about 1 week for snowfall and avalanching to stop. 30th up from ABC to 1st biv. 1st Oct to 2nd biv and 2nd Oct to 3rd biv. 3rd Oct from biv 3 to 8500m at 7:30 am 5 hours above biv 3 where Hornbein Couloir opens out, by Alberto and Juan (Ferran stopped at 8200m not feeling strong). At 8500m Juan's strength finished "quite steep no ropes." Alberto turned back with Juan because didn't want to go on alone and maybe beginning to get tired too, so both back to biv 3 with Ferran. "We made good push." Biv 3 at terrible place (rocks, took 4 hours to make place for 1 small tent). 4 Oct to ABC at 11:00 pm NST . Strong wind on 2nd; 3rd no wind, sunny and very cold at that altitude.

  Team arrived in Nepal on 18 Aug & left Kathmandu for border on 21 Aug.


expid: ANN106302
peakid: ANN1
year: 2006
route1: S Face (Bonington route)
nation: Japan
leaders: Yoshichika Yamada
sponsor: C.C.A. Annapurna Expedition
approach: Bus to Pokhara and Nayapul, up Modi Khola to BC
bcdate: 2006-10-04
smtdate: 2006-10-22
termdate: 2006-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6220m due to fatal avalanche hitting Lhakpa Rita Sherpa
campsites: BC(04/10,4130m),C1(12/10,4900m),C2(21/10,6200m),xxx(22/10,6220m)
agency: Nireekha Treks
routememo:
  C1 on glacier at start of South Face
  C2 on South Face
  High point on South Face.

  Lhakpa Rita was fixing rope when at 9:20 snow avalanche hit him and carried him 500m down and buried him (body not recovered); same avalanche carried Noma and Kumar Rai 5m, but they were not hurt. Climb finished.

  Sherpas:
    Kumar Rai was pseudo-member, 2/6/75, Walung, trekking agent
    Lhakpa Rita, 4/9/71, Phortse, Everest X3, Lhotse X3, Annapurna I X1, Cho Oyu X1

  High point 6220m reached by Lhakpa Rita, Kumar Rai and Noma.


expid: CHOY06347
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Russia
leaders: Alexsandr Moiseev
sponsor: First Expedition of Rostov-on-Don to Cho Oyu
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-27
smtdate: 2006-10-18
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2006-10-21
campsites: BC(27/09,4900m),ABC(01/10,5700m),C1(05/10,6400m),C2(11/10,7100m),Smt(18/10)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Moiseev, Politiko, Makovkin and Podlesny left C2 at 4 am. It was very cold, slight wind. Moiseev and Makovkin got 7600m (below rock band) but turned back due to cold and Moiseev was feeling sick. They turned back at 8 am. Politiko got to 7900m (above rock band) but turned back due to cold at 9 am. Podlesny got to top at 12 noon and stayed there for 20 minutes. No views. He saw 3 oxygen bottles on top. He returned to C2 where other three were waitng for him. He arrived at 2 pm. All four dismantled C2 and descended to ABC. 

  Shevchenko and Zhuralev got to C1 on 7 Oct but abandoned climb due to lack of physical strength.

  Iskhakov did not get beyond ABC due to cold; he left ABC around the 3rd October, came back to Kathmandu and flew to Pokhara.


expid: CHOY06348
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Jordi Tosas
sponsor: Campo de Borja Cho Oyu 2006
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-11
smtdate: 2006-10-04
termdate: 2006-10-07
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to bad weather, strong wind
othersmts: Climbed Palung Ri (new route by Tosas) (PLNG-063-01)
campsites: BC(11/09,4900m),ABC(14/09,5700m),C1(21/09,6400m),C2(30/09,7100m),xxx(04/10,8000m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Carrascoso and Tosas left C2 at midnight on 4 Oct. Wind was very strong, up to about 70 km/h. When they arrived at about 8000m at 4:30 am (NT), they decided to turn back as the wind was getting stronger. They packed up C2 and C1 and descended to ABC, where they arrived at 4:30 pm. Manuel Hernandez from other Spanish expedition climbed with them.

  Baquero stayed at ABC for duration of expedition. She never intended to climb. She left BC on 4 Oct.

  Tosas climbed a new route (SW Face) on Palung Ri on 19 Sept. It was difficult 55-60 degrees. He soloed it in 8 hours (ABC->top->ABC). He descended via West Ridge.


expid: CHOY06349
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Vernon Tejas
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Cho Oyu Expedition 2006
countries: Jordan, Turkey, UK
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-06
smtdate: 2006-10-02
smttime: 0615
termdate: 2006-10-05
campsites: BC(06/09),ABC(10/09,5600m),C1(16/09,6400m),C2(21/09,7000m),C3(01/10,7500m),Smt(02/10)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  Summit party (all of them summited) left 3:00 am NST from C3 and on top 6:15-9:00 am and down to C2 to sleep. Very clear, saw Everest and its neighbors. All to ABC on 3rd.

  Beeton climbed despite urinary tract infection.
  Gusinde had recurrence of old leg injury and left 22 Sept.
  Ross to C2 only because of lack of training; 
  Salameh left 15 Sep because of ulcer.

  Oxygen:
  Members in C3 to top to and in C3. Sherpas none except for Lhakpa Rita, who became tired from fixing rope, from just above C3 to above rock bands, used oxygen on summit plateau and down to C3.

  Sherpas: 
    Lhakpa Rita, 9/9/66, Thami, Everest X9, Cho Oyu X5
    Kami Rita, 17/1/70, Thami, Everest X10, Cho Oyu X2
    Tshering Dorje, 20/7/70, Kharikhola, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X3
    Fur/Phura Kancha, 25 yrs old, Everest X1


expid: NAG106301
peakid: NAG1
year: 2006
route1: S Face of S Smt
nation: Japan
leaders: Kazuyoshi Kondo, Da Gombu Sherpa
countries: Nepal
bcdate: 2006-10-03
smtdate: 2006-10-26
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2006-10-29
achievment: 1st ascent of Nangpai Gosum I's South Summit
agency: Nepal Mountaineering Assoc/Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(03/10,5250m),C1(08/10,5600m),C2(14/10,6300m),C3A(24/10,6800m),C3B(25/10,7150m),S Smt(26/10,7225m)

routememo:
  Japanese-Nepalese Nagpai Gosum (Autumn 2006) - 2 Nov 2006

  Team made C3 first at 6800m because of much new snow, which was tiring for the climbers to make trail through. The new snow had fallen during the ten-day period after C2 had been established. Also above C2 was a difficult section. But the only place for a camp at 6800m had space for only one tent, so a higher camp 3 was needed for more climbers to stay in. So C3B was pitched at 7150m the next day. (It was placed in a spot that could have been avalanched, but no avalanches actually hit it).

  The route, which was the South Face of the summit, was made difficult by very poor ice and snow conditions, says Da Gombu. Ice was very unstable, and in places there was a layer of snow over hollow ice. There was also bad rock. It was impossible to use ice screws; team used snowbars and rock pitons.

  Da Gombu rates the technical difficulty of much of the route as equal to the Everest's South Pillar, but it's "not too bad" for the well trained Sherpas of this team. (The elderly Japanese members, he says, followed the ropes fixed by the Nepalese.)

  Summit party members Kondo, Kozu and Mingma Dorje left CA at 4:30 am on 26 October, joined the other summit party people, Da Gombu, Pemba Dorje, Miss Pasang Lhamu, and Lam Babu, at CB and all left CB at 7:00 am. They were on the South Summit at 7225m together at 11:00 am. Da Gombu, Miss Pasang Lhamu and Mingma Dorje descended to C1 at 6:00 pm; the others stopped for the night in C2 at 6:00 pm. All were in BC on the 27th.

  They did not go beyond the South Summit because they were very tired and would have needed to go down to BC to rest before resuming climb, and perhaps would have to pitch C4. This would have meant at least another week on the mountain and 300 meters more rope. They were happy with the summit they did reach.

  Note: Kondo and Da Gombu are absolutely certain that Nangpai Gosum I, the western-most of the three Nangpai Gosum peaks, is the same as Pasang Lhamu Chuli, Cho Aui, and Jasamba. [Note: most maps consider this expedition's peak as Nangpai Gosum I.]

  Liaison officer Saroj Timalsina from the cultural department of the ministry of culture, tourism and civil aviation, became sick at base camp. Da Gombu believes he had pneumonia, but it could have been pulmonary edema. He was taken down from base camp on 8 Oct and died at Thami on the 11th.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Da Gombu, 9/7/58, Cheremy, Bung-9, Solu, Cho Oyu X1, Dhaulagiri X1
    Pemba Dorje, 29/4/77, Beding, Everest X3, and speed climb claim, Lhotse X1,
      Manaslu X1
    Miss Pasang Lhamu, 10/6/84, Gumila, Chaurikharka-8, no 8000ers
    Mingma Dorje, 17/7/79, Tapting, Solu, Everest X1
    Lam Babu/Lama Babu, 23/9/68? 24/9/69?, Cheremy, Bung-9, Solu, Everest X3
      (He was the only hired Sherpa on the team, although the Japanese financed 
      the other Sherpas and all other costs)


expid: EVER03147
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Denis Etienne
sponsor: Everest 2003
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2003-04-15
smtdate: 2003-05-22
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2003-05-27
campsites: BC(15/04,5200m),ABC(22/04,6400m),C1(27/04,7000m),C2(20/05,7700m),C3(21/05,8300m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
routememo:
  Delrieu, Etienne, Gresset, Lachaud and Nima Nurbu Lama left C3 at 02:00 hours on May 22. Lachaud and Lama reached summit at 09:30 hours, stayed on summit for 45 minues, descended to C2 at 18:00 hours. 

  Delieu reached up to 8480m without oxygen, but it was very cold and windy, so she gave up and returned to ABC. Gressset reached below Second Step, but his oxygen mask was not fitted properly, so he gave up climbing and descended to ABC. Etienne reached up to 8650m, but his oxygen ran out and had to turn around to ABC. Jond climbed up to C1, but he had back pain and did not try to climb. 

  All members used oxygen from C2 except Delrieu. Lachaud used oxygen from C2 to summit to C2. Lama sued oxygen from 8300m to summit to 8300m. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on May 28 and to leave on 31st.

  Sherpa:
    Nima Nurbu Lama 20/2/80 (2036-11-8), Namche VDC 8, Thami, Khumbu (1st 8000er)


expid: CHOY06350
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: S Korea
leaders: Oh Eun-Sun
sponsor: Oh Eun-Sun Sishapangma and Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Sishapangma BC->Nyalam
bcdate: 2006-10-23
smtdate: 2006-10-31
termdate: 2006-11-02
termnote: Abandoned at 8170m due to cold, very strong wind
campsites: BC(23/10,4700m),ABC(24/10,5700m),C1(29/10,6300m),C2(30/10,7000m),xxx(31/10,8170m)
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 23 Oct at 5300m.

  Oh, Heo and Thilen left C2 at 01:15 hours NST, reached at 8170m at 11:00 hours. Oh started feeling cold especially her head and decided to turn around to C1 where they arrived around 17:00 hours. Next day to ABC. Weather was good, very windy, little snowing. The summit was cloudy. The team was the last one to leave mountain.

  The expedition returned to Kathmandu on 3 November and will leave after 10 days.

  Sherpas:
    Thilen Sherpa, 18-5-1968, Nurbugaon, Makalu VDC-5, Sankhuwasabha
    Peme Sherpa, Nurbugaon, Makalu VDC-5

  They are brothers.


expid: CHOY06351
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Gianluca Summa
sponsor: Alta Montagna Climbing Team Cho Oyu Expedition 2006
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-16
smtdate: 2006-10-06
termdate: 2006-10-11
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to frostbite and end of climbing time
campsites: BC(16/09,5000m),ABC(20/09,5800m),C1(22/09,6400m),C2(02/10,7200m),xxx(06/10,7600m)
accidents: Lucco got minor frostbite in his right toe
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 18 Sept at 5300m.

  Lucco left C2 at midnight (NST) of 5 October, reached at 7600m at 03:30 hours of 6 October. He realized that his toes were getting cold, then turned around to C1 where he arrived at 12 noon. Next day to ABC.

  Dalla Gasperina climbed up to C2 on 2 October; he was very tired and gave up further climbing. 

  Summa left ABC on 30 Sept, arrived Kathamndu on 2 October and left Nepal on 4 October. 

  The expedition returned to Kathmandu on 12 October and left Nepal on 16th.


expid: CHOY06352
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Austria
leaders: Lukas Furtenbach
sponsor: Tirol Cho Oyu Ski Expedition 2006
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-30
smtdate: 2006-10-01
smttime: 1015
termdate: 2006-10-05
campsites: BC(30/09,4900m),ABC(03/10,5650m),C1(09/10,6400m),C2(14/10,7050m),C3(30/10,7450m),Smt(01/10)
accidents: Furtenbach frostbite (left big toe & on right 1st and 3rd toes)
agency: Iceland Trekking (Tendi)
routememo:
  Furtenbach, Mair and Tendi left C3 at 2:30 am  (NST) on 1 Oct. Weather was calm and clear. Mair turned back just below yellow band due to cold feet. Furtenbach and Tendi spent 40 minutes on the summit. Good views of Everest. They returned to C3, where they arrived at 1:30 pm. Furtenbach felt sick and tired due to a flu he's had for a while but still skied down to C2 with Mair. They arrived at C2 at 4 pm and stayed the night. Furtenbach noticed at C2 that his toes were numb. He massaged them and tried to thaw them. He was going to see doctor at CIWEC Clinic. 

  Holzer turned back at 7450m (C3) on 30 Oct as she was feeling sick (flu), returned to C2 on foot, not on skies; she was carrying them and could not be bothered to change from crampons to skies.

  On 21 Oct all 3 members skied down to C1 from C2. They did not ski down the icefall but abseiled down.

  Sherpa:
    Tendi Sherpa (46 years), Tapting, Solu, no 8000ers, Ama Dablam several times


expid: CHOY06353
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: Denmark
leaders: Lee Jensen
sponsor: Danish Cho Oyu 2006
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-05
smtdate: 2006-10-02
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2006-10-04
campsites: BC(05/09,4800m),ABC(10/09,5600m),C1(14/09,6400m),C2(01/10,7100m),Smt(02/10)
achievment: Summited without oxygen and Sherpa
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 8th at 5200m.

  Jensen and Ploug left C2 at 12 midnight (NST) of Oct 1. Summited by Ploug at 07:30 hours of Oct 2, stayed on summit 15 minutes, descended to C2 at about 14:00 hours. Next day to ABC. There were 7-8 people already on the summit all of them using oxygen. Ploug on his way down met many people coming up. Weather was clear, little windy and cold. Ploug saw Everest, Makalu, Lhotse, Shishapagma, etc. Jensen turned around because he was very tired and slow due to altitude.
   
  Als climbed up to 6800m on 1 October. He could not acclimatize well. 
  Maina climbed up to 6400m on 17 Sept and gave up climbing due to lack of acclimatization. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 5 Oct and will leave on 9 October.


expid: MANA06307
peakid: MANA
year: 2006
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Ukyo Katayama
sponsor: Team Ukyo Manaslu Expedition 2006
ascent1: 98th
approach: By helicopter to BC
bcdate: 2006-10-15
smtdate: 2006-11-05
smttime: 1024
termdate: 2006-11-08
campsites: BC(15/10,5000m),C1(19/10,5900m),C2(26/10,6900m),C3(03/11,7600m),Smt(05/11)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Summit team left C3 at 5:30 am. Weather was calm and clear. From C3 to about 7900m snow conditions were good, crusty. From 7900m snow was very soft and it was hard work. Good views from summit. They spent 15 min on summit. Descended to C2 where they arrived at 4:30 pm. It started to snow during the night. The next day they descended to C1. It took them 17 hours due to lots of new snow. They started at 6:30 am from C2 and arrived at C1 at 11:30 pm. Katayama started to feel frostbite coming on during descent. During descent to C1 they left 5 full oxygen bottles and a tent as it was too heavy to carry. On 7 Nov they descended to BC. Katayama tried to thaw his feet there with hot water. On 8 Nov they left BC and descended to Samagaon from where they took a helicopter back to Kathmandu.

  Katayama's feet were still painful on his return but did not turn black. He does not think he will loose any toes.

  Sherpas:
    Phura Chhiri Sherpa, Kurima, Lokhim, Solu, 4/10/68, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1, 
      Xixapangma X1 (Central), K2 X1, Manaslu X1, Lhotse X2
    Dawa Chhiri Sherpa, Kurima, Lokhim-9, Solukhumbu, Everest X3, 
      Cho Oyu X2, Autumn 2005 with Australian Expedition (Andrew Lock), Makalu X2


expid: MANA06308
peakid: MANA
year: 2006
route1: NE Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Oh Hee-Joon
sponsor: 2006 Korean Manaslu Expedition
ascent1: 97th
approach: Bus to Pokhara; helicopter to Samagaon
bcdate: 2006-10-01
smtdate: 2006-10-20
smttime: 1145
termdate: 2006-10-23
campsites: BC(01/10,4800m),C1(03/10,5700m),C2(04/10,6600m),C3(19/10,7300m),Smt(20/10)
agency: NE-KO Treks
routememo:
  Oh and Then Dorje left C3 at 04:15 hours on 20 Oct, reached summit at 11:45 hours, stayed on summit about an hour, descended to C2 at 16:30 hours. Next day to BC. Weather in the early morning was good. After 10:00 hours started high wind, but clear sky. The expedition trekked down to Arughat and arrived Kathmandu on 28 Oct and will leave on 30th.

  Sherpa:
    Then Dorje Sherpa, Pangboche, 22/4/83, Evererst X3

  Lee Hyeong-Mo stayed in BC throughout the climbing period because his name was not on the permit.


expid: CHOY06377
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Yann Delevaux
sponsor: French On Cho Oyu
countries: Switzerland
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-09-10
smtdate: 2006-10-01
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2006-10-06
campsites: BC(10/09,5000m),ABC(12/09,5700m),C1(18/09,6400m),C2(29/09,7100m),C3(30/09,7500m),Smt(01/09)
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Rai)
routememo:
  BC at 5000m CBC/IC on 11 Sept at 5300m.

  Carrard, Cosson, Despature (Alexis), Despature (Jean) and Ravanel left C2 at 01:30 hours(NST), joined other members at C3 (Angiboust, Baccard, Delevaux and Perez), and all together left C3 at 05:00 hours. The team reached to summit at 10:30 hours, stayed on summit for 30 minutes, descended to C2 where members reached between 13:30 to 17:00 hours. Weather was excellent, no wind and Everest view was perfect. There were many prayer flags on the summit. The summiters also saw marks of vomit on the summit. The team met Italians descending without oxygen. Two French and a Sherpa was already were on the summit when Delevaux team got to the summit. Angiboust had to turn around from 8100m, due to exhaustion. 

  Bourrel left expedition saying that he had seen enough. 

  Cosson reached up to C3, suffered from severe backache and had to give up further climbing.

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 9 Oct and trying to leave as soon as possible.


expid: EVER06303
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Go Young-Kuk
sponsor: 2006 Everest Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2006-09-02
smtdate: 2006-10-08
termdate: 2006-10-28
termnote: Abandoned at 8400m due to bad weather and mainly SPCC pulling off the icefall route
othersmts: Attempt Lhotse (LHOT-063-01)
campsites: BC(02/09,5400m),C1(13/09,6100m),C2(15/09,6400m),C3(03/10,7200m),C4(08/10,7900m),xxx(8400m)
accidents: Kim suffered from headache and vomit at C1 on 23 Oct
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal
routememo:
  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 above Khumbu Icefall
  C2 in West Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 at South Col by Sherpas (not used)
  High point for members at 7200m at C2-C3.

  Go Woo-Seek, Go Young-Kuk (leader) and Kim Young-Hak reached C3 on 17 Oct on their way up to South Col. But snowfall compelled them to stay at C3. Snowfall continued on the 18th and they remained at C3. On the 19th the three Koreans descended to C2 and two Sherpas waiting to go up to C3 at C2 descended to BC. Snowfall started when the three Koreans reached at C1 on 23 Oct. Kim suffered from headache and started vomiting. At BC the Koreans requested Ang Nima for help to clear the icefall to enable them to bring down Kim from C1. The request was refused saying that it is too dangerous to open the icefall. Kim had to stay three nights at C1 without food. On 25th the weather became clear and the Koreans descended to BC on 26th.

  The Koreans said that Wally Berg asked Ang Nima (SPCC staff hired by Wally Berg?) to remove the icefall ladders after 27th. And Ang Nima told the Korean expedition that the icefall ladders will be removed after 27 Oct and if the Koreans wanted to used the ladders on icefall after 27th they have to pay additional charge of US$1800. Also said that the Koreans will be liable to pay US$300 for each ladder in case of damage or lost.

  The Koreans expedition was disappointed by the behavior of Berg.

  Three members South Korean Everest expedition are part of the seven-member South Korean Lhotse expedition. The expedition planned to climb Everest first and to move Lhotse West Face normal route. The Canadian Everest expedition led by Wally Berg was already at the base camp when the Koreans arrived to the base camp on 2 September. The Wally Berg team and the Korean team made arrangement to use the icefall route by the Korean expedition paying US$8000 to Peak Promotion. And also agreed on that which ever team summits first the icefall route will be kept open till the climbing period of the expedition permit.

  The expedition returned to Kathmandu on 31 Oct and will leave 6 Nov. The expedition leader Go said that he will never return to Khumbu Icefall to climb Everest, rather he will try from Tibet.

  1. Dawa Ongchu Sherpa (2029-9-3) Makalu VDC-9, Walung. He went up to 
     South Summit opening the route. He has summited Everest 2 times, 
     Kangchenjunga 4 times, Broad Peak, G1 and C2.

  2. Pasang Tenzing Sherpa (2038-8-10), Makalu VDC-9, Walung. His high 
     point was 7200m. He has summited Everest from Tibet.

  3. Tashi Sherpa (2034-8-19) Bung VDC-9, Cheremy, Solukhumbu. His high 
     point was South Summit. He has summited Cho Oyu.

  4. Pasang Nurbu Sherpa (2029-9-7) Makalu VDC-9, Walung. His high point
     was 7200m. He has summited Everest two times, Kangchenjunga two 
     times, Dhaulagiri, Langtang Lirung, Ama Dablam, Tilicho.

  Two Sherpas used oxygen above S Col for opening route to S Summit.

  Wally Berg, leader of Canadian Everest team - 21 Oct 2006

  All his Sherpas were still at base camp waiting for the Koreans to finish their climb before they dismantled the Khumbu Icefall route.

  Berg's team was asked to rescue Korean members from C1 because it was snowing and they were exposed to avalanche danger. Berg refused on the grounds that the snowfall made it too dangerous to move. There were an almost constant roar of avalanches when the five-day snowstorm ended.


expid: LHOT06301
peakid: LHOT
year: 2006
route1: W Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Go Young-Kuk
sponsor: 2006 Korean Lhotse Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2006-09-02
smtdate: 2006-10-08
termdate: 2006-10-28
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to mainly SPCC pulling off the icefall route and bad weather
othersmts: Attempted Everest (EVER-063-03)
campsites: BC(02/09,5400m),C1(13/09,6100m),C2(15/09,6400m),C3(03/10,7200m),C4(08/10,7900m),xxx(7900m)
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal
primid: EVER06303
routememo:
  The expedition's plan was to summit Everest first then move to Lhotse. Due to pulling out of the icefall Ladders, the actual Lhotse team could not continue climbing on Lhotse.

  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 above Khumbu Icefall
  C2 in West Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 at South Col by Sherpas (not used)
  High point for members at 7200m at C2-C3.

  Go Woo-Seek, Go Young-Kuk (leader), Kim Young-Hak and Kim Do-Hyung reached C3 on 17 Oct on their way up to South Col. But snowfall compelled them to stay at C3. Snowfall continued on the 18th and they remained at C3. On the 19th the three Koreans descended to C2 and two Sherpas waiting to go up to C3 at C2 descended to BC. Snowfall started when the three Koreans reached at C1 on 23 Oct. Kim suffered from headache and started vomiting. At BC the Koreans requested Ang Nima for help to clear the icefall to enable them to bring down Kim from C1. The request was refused saying that it is too dangerous to open the icefall. Kim had to stay three nights at C1 without food. On 25th the weather became clear and the Koreans descended to BC on 26th.

  The Koreans said that Wally Berg asked Ang Nima (SPCC staff hired by Wally Berg?) to remove the icefall ladders after 27th. And Ang Nima told the Korean expedition that the icefall ladders will be removed after 27 Oct and if the Koreans wanted to used the ladders on icefall after 27th they have to pay additional charge of US$1800. Also said that the Koreans will be liable to pay US$300 for each ladder in case of damage or lost.


expid: EVER06197
peakid: EVER
year: 2006
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Endra Bahadur Rai
sponsor: Youth Everest Expedition
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2006-04-19
smtdate: 2006-05-15
smttime: 0640
termdate: 2006-05-19
agency: Arun Treks
campsites:
  BC(19/04,5200m),IC(23/04,5300m),ABC(24/04,6400m),C1(11/05,7000m),C2(13/05,7900m),C3(14/05,8300m),Smt(15/05)

routememo:
  Rai and Thapa left C3 at 22:00 hours (NST) of 14 May. Rai summited at 06:40 hours of 15 May, stayed on the summit about 25 minutes, then descended to C3 at about 16:00-17:00 hours. Rai met Dorje Katri, Kame, Lhakpa and Nima Sherpa of Turkish expedition followed by Turkish woman while descending. 

  Rai's co-climber Thapa had to turn around to C3 from about 8600m as he suffered pulmonary edema and also had problem with oxygen. 

  Both Rai and Thapa returned to Kathmandu on 20 May.


expid: AMAD06304
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Maciej Berbeka
sponsor: Climb High Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 2006-11-07
smtdate: 2006-11-10
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2006-11-13
campsites: BC(07/11,4500m),C1(08/11,5800m),C2(09/11,6200m),C3(10/11,6400m),Smt(10-11/11)
accidents: Dziob frostbite
agency: Climb High Himalaya
routememo:
  10th Nov summiters left C2 at 5:00 am, top at 12:00 noon, back at C2 for Berbeka and Krystek to C3, where others 2 members had arrived.

  2nd party started at 8:30 am from C3 with Nuru; 150m higher Kaminski turned back (too hard for him) so down to C2 while Dziob and Nuri to top at 12:00 and back to C3. Dziob to high camp at 5:50 pm on 12th while Kaminski went to BC. Dziob to BC on 13th. Dziob has 3 frostbitten toes which may heal.

  Sherpa:
    Nuri/Nuru Chhiri, 26/4/70, Churung Kharka, Bhakanje-2, Solu, Lhotse 2003,
      Dhaulagiri I 2005, Everest 2004


expid: AMAD06305
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Krysztof Wielicki
sponsor: Polish Ama Dablam Expedition 2006
countries: Canada
bcdate: 2006-10-27
smtdate: 2006-11-02
termdate: 2006-11-08
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (summited 6 Nov by 4 members)
campsites: BC(27/10,4600m),C1(28/10,5800m),C2(31/10,6000m),C3(01/11,6450m),Smt(02-03,05-06/11)
accidents: Gazdik 2 fingers badly frostbitten; Kalwak lung infection
agency: Nomad Expeditions
routememo:
  Non-summiters:
    Dubiel reached C1, climb too difficult, left 4 Nov for Island Peak
    Kalwak reached C1, got lung infection, left 2 Nov
    Kaminski reached C2, route too technical and descended
    Mrs Siewierska reached C1, route too technical, left 4 Nov for Island Peak
    Siewierski reached C1, route too technical for his wife, left with her on 4 Nov
      and went to Island Peak
    Striczek reached C1, route too technical, left 4 Nov and went with Dubiel 
      to Island Peak


expid: AMAD06306
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Sergei Kovalev
sponsor: Ukrainian Ama Dablam
countries: Russia
approach: Pangboche-Deboche
bcdate: 2006-10-18
smtdate: 2006-10-23
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2006-10-25
campsites: BC(18/10,3700m),C1(19/10,5600m),C2(22/10,6000m),Smt(23/10)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  Summit team left C2 on 23 Oct at 8 am. Weather was calm but cloudy. No view from the summit. Team descended to C2 where they arrived at 8 pm.

  Gonchar, Gonsharov, Kulysaba, Kiselov and Lykov reached C1 on 19 Oct. They all stayed the night but descended to Deboche due to lack of motivation. They stayed in Deboche for rest of expedition.


expid: AMAD06307
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Angel Navas
sponsor: Ama Dablam 6856 Expedition 2006
approach: Lukla->Namche->Tengboche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2006-09-29
smtdate: 2006-10-14
termdate: 2006-10-16
termnote: Abandoned at 5700m due to lack of time, bad weather conditions
campsites: BC(29/09,4700m),ABC(01/10,5500m),C1(03/10,5700m),xxx(14/10,5700m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  On 14 Oct the expedition went up to C1. Bad weather and snow conditions compelled the expedition members to give up the climb. 

  The expedition returned to Kathmandu on 19 Oct and will leave Nepal on 24th.


expid: AMAD06308
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Gorka Ripodas Perez
sponsor: Basque Ama Dablam Expedition 2006
approach: Lukla->Namche->Dingboche->Island Peak->Pangboche
bcdate: 2006-10-14
smtdate: 2006-10-26
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2006-10-29
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (summited on 12 Oct by all three members)
campsites: BC(14/10,4600m),C1(16/10,5745m),C2(24/10,6030m),C3(25/10,6320m),Smt(26/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Gorka Ripodas Perez, Mikel Ripodas Perez and Santiso Barrenetxea left C3 at 08:00 hours, summited at 11:30 hours, stayed on summit about one hour, descended to C3 at 14:00 hours. Next day to BC. On summit day, weather in the morning was good. But after their summit time which was 11:30 hours it became cloudy and started snowfalling. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 2 Nov and will leave on 4 Nov.


expid: AMAD06309
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Roberto De Paz Lopez
sponsor: Spaniards on Ama Dablam
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2006-10-22
smtdate: 2006-11-02
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2006-11-05
campsites: BC(22/10,4600m),ABC(25/10,5400m),C1(28/10,5800m),C2(31/10,6000m),C3(01/11,6300m),Smt(02/11)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Team left C3 at 9 am shortly after Adventure Consultants team. Weather was calm and clear. When they got to the summit they had about 5 minutes of good views before clouds came in. They descended to C3 where they arrived at 3 pm. The next day they descended to C3, where they stayed the night. On 4 Nov they descended to BC. 

  Aller is diabetic but had no problems on the mountain.


expid: AMAD06310
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Pierre Blanc
sponsor: Pierre Blanc Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Gokyo->Cho La->Kalapattar->Island Peak
bcdate: 2006-10-14
smtdate: 2006-10-23
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2006-10-26
othersmts: Island Peak
campsites: BC(14/10,4680m),C1(17/10,5800m),C3(22/10,6400m),Smt(23/10)
agency: Himalayan Travel Bureau
routememo:
  Team left C3 at 6 am on 23 Oct. Weather was clear but cold. Good views from the summit. They stayed on the summit for 30 minutes. When they packed up C3 at around midday the weather had closed in. They descended to C1, where they arrived at 9:30 pm on 23 Oct. They took so long because of bad conditions. They descended to BC the next day.

  Sherpas:
    Nima Nuru, Chaurikharka, Khumbu, 2024/3/5 (19/6/67), Baruntse several times
    Nima Gyalzen, Chaurikharka, Khumbu, 2043/5/5 (31/8/86), Everest X1, Spring 2006


expid: AMAD06311
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kenichi Nagaoka
sponsor: Nagoaka Ama Dablam Expedition 2006
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2006-10-21
smtdate: 2006-11-06
smttime: 0820
termdate: 2006-11-08
campsites: BC(21/10,4600m),ABC(23/10,5400m),C1(26/10,5800m),C2(03/11,6200m),C3(05/11,6500m),Smt(06/11)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Summit team left C3 at 4:30 am. Weather was calm and clear. Snow condition good. Good views from the summit. Nagaoka spent nearly two hours on the summit as he was waiting for all his members to arrive. They descended to C2, where they wanted to spend the night but it was too crowded there, so they descended to C1, where they arrived at 4 pm. On 7 Nov they descended to BC.

  Shimizu reached 6200m on 3 Nov. However he descended to BC the same day as he had pain in his right foot. On his return to Kathmandu he went to CIWEC. But they did not find anything wrong with it.

  "Sherpas:"
    Tul Bahadur Tamang, Deusa, Solu, 30/8/1966
      Everest North in 2002 and 2006
      Cho Oyu in 1999, 2000, 2004
      Dhaulagiri I in 1998
      Manaslu in Autumn 2006 (just before Ama Dablam)

    Santa Man Tamang, Deusa, Solu , 1976, (brother of Tul Bahadur), no 8000ers


expid: AMAD06312
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Singapore
leaders: Ramli Ahmad
sponsor: Singapore Ama Dablam 2006 Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Tengboche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2006-10-14
smtdate: 2006-10-28
smttime: 1455
termdate: 2006-11-01
campsites: BC(14/10,4500m),ABC(21/10,5600m),C1(25/10,6100m),C2(26/10,6400m),C3(27/10,6500m),Smt(28/10)
accidents: Ramli Ahmad suffered from vomit 300m below the summit
achievment: 1st Singaporean to climb Ama Dablam
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Ramli and Roslan Ahmad left C3 at 09:30 hours. Ramli had to turn around to C3 because he started vomiting. Roslan reached summit at 14:55 hours, stayed on summit about 15 minutes, returned to C3 around 16:00 hours. Next day to C2 together and the following day to BC. Weather was good, but afternoons cloudy. 

  The expedition team returned to Kathmandu on 2 Nov and will leave on 6 Nov.


expid: AMAD06313
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Mark Sedon
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Ama Dablam Expedition 2006
countries: Australia, Colombia, USA
bcdate: 2006-10-23
smtdate: 2006-11-02
termdate: 2006-11-05
campsites: BC(23/10,4650m),ABC(27/10,5150m),C1(28/10,5400m),C2(31/10,5750m),C3(01/11,6230m),Smt(02/11)
accidents: Phu Tashi food poisoning; Krupp altitude sickness in white-out
achievment: 1st Colombian summiter
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Summit party left C3 at 7:30 am and on top 12:15 to 1:00 pm and all slept in C3, back 2:30-4:00 pm. 3rd down to C1 and 4th all in BC. 

  Krupp got altitude sickness at C1 twice, so stayed at BC.
  Rees quit climbing at 5600m from exhaustion.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Lhakpa Dorje, 16/11/61, Sanam, Gudel VDC, Solu, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X3, etc
    Sange Dorje, 29 yrs old, Khumjung, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Dawa Jangbu, 22/4/73, Pangboche, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X1

  Other Sherpa was Phu Tashi (1973, Pangboche, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X2) who got food poisoning at C1 and was sent home. He had been assigned to carry the heavy backpack of Ms. Lopez, who was small.


expid: AMAD06314
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Takuo Fujiwara
sponsor: Paine Club Ama Dablam Expedition 2006
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2006-10-18
smtdate: 2006-11-07
termdate: 2006-11-11
termnote: Abandoned at 6015m due to fatigue by Ishimisu
campsites: BC(18/10,4700m),C1(03/11,5800m),xxx(07/11,6015m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  On 7 Nov team left C1 at 7 am. It took them 4 hours to get to high point due to Miss Ishimusu being very slow and weak. The weather was calm and clear with few clouds around. At 11 am the whole team decided to turn back as Ishimisu was too slow. They descended to C1 where they arrived at 4:30 pm. On 8 Nov they descended to BC.

  Hired:
    Pasang Tamang, Deusa VDC, Solu, 1968 in December (04/12/68), 
      Everest North in 2003
    Hit Tamang, Deusa VDC, brother of Pasang Tamang, (BS 2027), 
      Hungchi Peak in 2003 (Japanese Expedition)


expid: AMAD06315
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Sweden
leaders: Lars Svens
sponsor: Swedish Ama Dablam Expedition 2006
approach: Lukla->Namche->Tengboche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2006-10-14
smtdate: 2006-10-27
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2006-11-01
campsites: BC(14/10,4500m),ABC(17/10,5500m),C1(19/10,5800m),C2(24/10,6000m),Smt(27/10)
accidents: Ojefelt started vomiting at C2 on 26th suffered from diarrhea
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Svens left C2 at 07:15, summited at about 13:00 hours, stayed on summit about 10 minutes and then descended to C2 at 15:00 hours. Svens and Ojefelt descended to C1 on 28th and following day to BC. Weather on summit day was good, but at 12:30 hours cloud started coming. Good view of Everest side but other areas were too cloudy. Other climbers on the summit that day were two Serbians, 2 Swedish and two Sherpas and a Spanish Monterosa. 

  The expedition team returned to Kathmandu on 3 Nov and will leave on 9th.


expid: AMAD06316
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Pedro Manuel Millan del Rosario
sponsor: Canaries 8000 Ama Dablam Expedition 2006
approach: Lukla->Namche->Island Peak->Dingboche
bcdate: 2006-10-17
smtdate: 2006-10-27
smttime: 1115
termdate: 2006-10-29
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (14 Oct by Lopez and Millan Del Rosario)
campsites: BC(17/10,4360m),deposit(19/10,5400m),C1(24/10,5800m),C2(25/10,6200m),C3(26/10,6300m),Smt(27/10)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Deposit at 5400m between yak camp and C1.

  Lopez left C3 at 08:00 hours and reached summit at 11:15 hours. He stayed on summit about 45 minutes, called his wife in Spain, talked with friends at BC, then descended to C3 at about 13:00 hours. Next day to BC. Weather was sunny clear, excellent view. There were prayer flags on summit. Lopez was first to reach summit followed by Serbian, 2 Sherpas with two clients, one Swedish and other Serbian. 

  Millan del Rosario climbed up to 5400m on 19 Oct, spent night. He lost appetite. Next day descended to BC. 

  Ramos spent a night at 5400m on 23 Oct. He suffered from cough and headache. Next day descended to BC. 

  The expedition returned to Kathmandu on 31 Oct and will leave on 4 Nov.


expid: AMAD06317
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Serbia
leaders: Hoselito Bite
sponsor: Ama Dablam 2006 - Serbia
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2006-10-14
smtdate: 2006-10-27
smttime: 1245
termdate: 2006-10-31
campsites: BC(14/10,4600m),ABC921/10,4750m),C1(22/10,4800m),C2(24/10,6000m),C3(25/10,6300m),Smt(27/10)
achievment: Summited without Sherpa support
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  ABC at between Yak camp and C1.

  Bite and Trifunovic left C3 on 27 Oct at about 09:00 hours. Bite summited at 12:45 hours and waited for Trifunovic who reached summit at about 14:00 hours. Trifunovic stayed on summit about 15 minutes, the weather became cloudy. Bite descended to C3 16:30 hours. He had to wait for Trifunovic about 2 hours near serac, otherwise Bite could have reached C3 much earlier. Trifunovic reached C3 at about 18:00 hours. Next day Bite reached BC at 21:00 hours and Trifunovic reached BC at about 01:30 hours of 29th. 

  Bite and Trifunovic made their first attempt on 26 Oct. The two started from C3 at 07:30 hours. When they reached about 100m above C3, hands and toes of both members started getting cold. It was freezing cold. Then Bite and Trifunovic returned to C3. Both the members realized that their fingers and toes were getting white and little swollen. Bite said that the gloves he was using not good enough to keep his fingers warm. The Spanish climber Gorka Ripodas Perez who was descending after summit gave his gloves to Bite. Then Bite and Trifunovic made their second attempt on 27th.

  Note: Frostbite in toes of both feet and two fingers of right hand of Trifunovic are bit serious, but he had not consulted with doctor. Bite's frostbitten toes are getting Ok.

  The expedition team returned to Kathmandu on 3 Nov and will leave on 5 Nov.

accidents:
  Frostbite in toes of both feet & two fingers of right hand of right hand of Trifunovic are bit serious; Bites frostbitten toes are getting Ok.


expid: AMAD06318
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Sweden
leaders: Lars Gunnar Bergqvist
sponsor: Swedes on Ama Dablam
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2006-10-17
smtdate: 2006-10-27
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2006-10-29
campsites: BC(17/10,4600m),C1(20/10,5800m),C2(26/10,6000m),Smt(27/10)
agency: Nima Gombu Sherpa (freelancer)
routememo:
  Team left C2 at 5:30 am on 27/10. Weather was clear and calm. Great views from the summit. They spent 30 minutes on summit. On descent clouds moved in. They descended to C2, where they arrived at 5:30 pm. Next day they descended to BC.

  Sherpas:
    Nima Gombu Sherpa, Beding, 2025/10 (day not known), Everest X11, Cho Oyu X2
    Thundu Sherpa, brother of Nima Gombu, Beding, 18/2/78, 
      Everest South Col X2 (2006 & 2003), Cho Oyu X1


expid: AMAD06319
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Norway
leaders: Aud Juvall
sponsor: Sissel & Aud's Touch of Ice to Ama Dablam
approach: Lukla->Namche->Dingboche->Chhukung Ri->Lobuche->Kalapattar->Lobuche BC
bcdate: 2006-11-01
smtdate: 2006-11-09
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2006-11-11
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East (30 Oct)
campsites: BC(01/11,3980m),C1(03/11,4800m),C2(07/11,6100m),C3(08/11,6300m),Smt(09/11)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Juvall, Jyamchang Bhote and Kusang Tenzing left C3 at 06:30 hours on 9 Nov, summited at 10:00 hours, stayed on summit about 20 minutes and descended to C1. Next day to BC. Very good weather, clear no wind. Wonderful view of Himalaya. Only Juvall team was there on the summit. 

  The expedition returned Kathmandu on 15 Nov and will leave on 17.

  Sherpas:
    Jyamchang Bhote, 13/04/81, Hungung, Farang VDC, Sankhuwasabha, Cho X2, Everest X1
    Kusang Tenzing Sherpa, 16/5/86, Lelep-9, Ghunsa


expid: AMAD06320
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: W Face up, SW Ridge down
nation: Japan
leaders: Yasuyuki Shinno
sponsor: 2006 Ama Dablam West Face Expedition
bcdate: 2006-11-11
smtdate: 2006-11-19
smttime: 0920
termdate: 2006-11-22
accidents: Yoshida 3 frostbitten fingers
agency: Cosmo Treks
campsites:
  BC(11/11,4600m),ABC-Biv(14/11,5050m),Biv1(15/11,5950m),Biv2(16/11,6240m),Biv3(17/11,6270m),Biv4(18/11,6700m),Smt(19/11)

routememo:
  BC at normal BC site
  ABC-Biv at bottom of West Face
  Biv1 at West Face (middle of face)
  Biv2 at West Face (middle of face)
  Biv3 at West Face (middle of face)
  Biv4 at West Face (middle of face).

  Climbed a line to left of intended route because the intended route was very steep rock so took less direct line to top on snow and ice not so steep (intended line 70-80 degrees, line taken 50-60 degrees mostly but in 2 sections, 85 degree at 6300m). 9:20 am on top after 40 minutes climb from biv at 6700m, then descended SW Ridge to normal route C1 (very long way) and no fixed rope left by 14 Nov avalanche from 6500-6400m. Returned to C1 5:40 pm ("I'm very tired", Shinno). Yoshida had lost his headlamp and Shinno had to go up from C1 to 5900m to give lamp; Shinno could see well in dark night but Yoshida could not see. 20 Nov to BC. 

  Team had only one tent which they carried with them as they went up and down the mountain; they always climbed together. Yoshida noticed he had 3 frostbitten fingers when he reached C1 on descent; frostbite will probably heal. The big overhanging serac usually seen on West Face was not there in November and their route from biv 2 went right over its former place.


expid: AMAD06321
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiroyuki Kuraoka
sponsor: Earth Desk Ama Dablam Expedition 2006
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2006-10-29
smtdate: 2006-11-08
smttime: 1205
termdate: 2006-11-13
campsites: BC(29/10,4700m),C1(02/11,5800m),C3(07/11,6300m),Smt(08/11)
accidents: Nishino broken toe bone
agency: Bochi Bochi Treks
routememo:
  Team left C3 at 8 am on 8 Nov. Weather was clear but cold. Good views from the summit. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit, then descended to C3 where they arrived at about 3:30 pm. That afternoon a big piece of ice broke from the serac above them and flew past them. Nobody got hurt. The next day they left C3 at 10 am, they stopped at C1 at 7:30 pm but could not stay there as Sherpas had taken everything down. They carried on to BC where they arrived at 1:30 am on 10 Nov.

  On 12 Nov the whole team went bouldering at BC and Nishino fell down about (about 1 m) and broke in her toe. The next day she was picked up by helicopter from BC. Rest of group left the same day.

  Sherpas:
    Da Chhemba Sherpa, Gudel-5, Solu, 20/2/68
      Everest  - 2003 & 2004
      Baruntse - 2002
      Cho Oyu  - 2005 & 2003

    Bir Bahadur Gurung, Tanahun District, Kamal Bari village, 2024 (20/9/67)
      Cho Oyu:  2002 & 2005
      Ama Dablam X2


expid: AMAD06322
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Sweden
leaders: Mikael Forsberg
sponsor: Island Peak and Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 2006-11-08
smtdate: 2006-11-13
termdate: 2006-11-16
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to fatal avalanches
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(08/11,4600m),C1(10/11,5700m),C2(12/11,6030m),C3(13/11,6400m),xxx(13/11,6400m)
accidents: Fatal avalanche; Bergman cough and fever
agency: Saran Subba
routememo:
  Forsberg and Carlsson planned to summit on 14th and were killed by avalanche early in that morning; both Sherpas killed with them: 

    Tashi Dorje, 26/9/70, Pangboche, Cho Oyu X2, Annapurna X1, Everest 31/05/06
    Danuru Sherpa, 25/4/69, Pangboche, no 8000ers

  Bergman got to 5000m on 11 Nov, but fever and bad cough made him too weak to continous climbing, so he returned to BC and stayed there till the end; he was weak for 3-4 days so could not go up again as he hoped to do.


expid: AMAD06323
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Zbigniew Mlynarczyk
sponsor: Bergprofis Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 2006-10-29
smtdate: 2006-11-07
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2006-11-10
campsites: BC(29/10,4600m),C1(01/11,5800m),C2(06/11,6100m),Smt(07/11)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  First trekked to Gorak Shep and Kalapattar.

  Left C2 for top at 6:00 am and on top at 2:00 pm, return to C2 at 7:00 pm.

  Summit Sherpas:
    Tshering (Chhiring) Dorje, 25/10/74, Beding, Xixa X1, Cho Oyu X4, Manaslu X1,
      Everest X6
    Phurba Namgyal, 7/2/86, Beding, Cho Oyu X1


expid: AMAD06324
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Fernando Errekalde
sponsor: Spanish Ama Dablam Expedition 2006
approach: Island Peak->Pangboche
bcdate: 2006-10-06
smtdate: 2006-10-18
termdate: 2006-10-22
termnote: Abandoned due to bad weather, no fixed rope, no time
othersmts: Island Peak
campsites: BC(06/10,4500m),C1(17/10,5700m),xxx(18,20/10,6000m)
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  High point at 6000m at C2 site.

  Alejandre, Elorza, Errekalde, Fernandez and Jimenez left C1 at about 9 am. On both the 18 Oct and 20 Oct. The weather was good in the morning and bad in the after on both days. On 20 Oct they did not stay at C2 as they had decided not to carry on due to too much snow and the lack of fixed rope. They did not stay night as there was no space, so they descended to C1. 

  Kortabarria and Trabado reached C1. Kortabarria felt altitude sick and decided to return to BC. Trabado stayed with him. They got to C1 on 17 Oct but did not stay the night, but back to BC.


expid: AMAD06325
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Vicente Lillo Rodrigo
sponsor: Spanish Ama Dablam Expedition 2006
approach: Lukla->Namche->Dingboche->Island Peak->Dingboche
bcdate: 2006-10-11
smtdate: 2006-10-20
termdate: 2006-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to bad weather and time constraint
campsites: BC(11/10,4700m),C1(12/10,5700m),C2(20/10,6200m),xxx(20/10,6200m)
agency: Sange Sherpa
routememo:
  Andreu, Gavilan, Lillo and Jangbu Sherpa spent night in C2 - waited for good weather. There was no improvement in weather then decided to call off the expedition. 

  Aguado reached up to C1 on 19 Oct, spent a night then gave up. It was very difficult for her to climb. Llombart also spent a night at C1 - he suffered from dry cough and breathing problem.

  The expedition returned to Kathmandu on 26 Oct. Gavilan left Kathmandu on 28th, Aguado, Andreu and Lillo will leave on 30th and Llombart on Nov 27 after visiting some places in Nepal. 

  Sherpa:
    Jangbu Sherpa, (2024-11-30), Ghunsa, Tingla VDC 2, Solukhumbu


expid: AMAD06326
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Juan Carrillo Olmos
sponsor: Spanish Expedition to Ama Dablam 2006
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2006-09-29
smtdate: 2006-10-14
termdate: 2006-10-16
termnote: Abandoned at 5700m due to permit period and bad weather
campsites: BC(29/09,4600m),ABC(01/10,5500m),C1(03/10,5700m),xxx(14/10,5700m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  The last attempt of the expedition was on 14 Oct. Went up to 5700m. The snow condition was bad but the weather was good. It was not possible for the expedition to continue climbing further.

  The expedition returned to Kathmandu on 19 Oct and will leave on different dates - 23rd and 24th.


expid: AMAD06327
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Giorgio Passino
sponsor: Italian Ama Dablam Expedition 2006
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Lobuche BC->Smt->Pangboche
bcdate: 2006-10-15
smtdate: 2006-10-23
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2006-10-26
othersmts: Lobuche East
campsites: BC(15/10,4518m),C1(18/10,5700m),C3(22/10,6100m),Smt(23/10)
agency: Monviso Treks
routememo:
  Torretta left C2 at 06:30 hours on 23 Oct, reached summit between 14:00-15:00 hours, stayed on summit about 10 minutes, descended to C2 at 19:00 hours. Next day to BC. Weather was good in the morning. From noon time started forming cloud, little bit windy and snowing, very cold. Ahead of Torretta on summit where 3 Ukrainians; she was the last one on summit on that day. Earlier 3 or 4 French summited on that day. 

  Leader Passino, Delfino and Savin reached up to 5700m. Viviana suffered from respiratory problem and chest pain and leader and two members descended to BC. 

  Delfino, Passino and Savin left BC on 22 Oct, arrived Kathmandu on 24 Oct and left Kathmandu on 27. Torretta returned to Kathmandu on 28 Oct and will leave on 31 Oct. 
  Tendi Sherpa was with Passino up to 5700m.


expid: AMAD06328
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Bryce Brown
sponsor: Canadian Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 2006-11-16
smtdate: 2006-11-17
termdate: 2006-11-18
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to unstable serac at C3 site
othersmts: Brown on Everest top 18 Oct; Twelker on Lobuche East (no top)
campsites: BC(16/11,4600m),xxx(17/11,5800m)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  High point at 5800m.

  At Pangboche, where they arrived evening of 13th, Brown and Twelker learned from lodge owner about fatal avalanche. They left all gear at Pangboche and went to BC with Grant, who had left gear at BC and C1, to see situation on mountain but had really thought not safe to climb. From BC Brown and Twelker went up to C1 site, had lunch there, decided area of serac too unstable to climb beneath or over so abandoned any lingering hope of climbing mountain at this time (come back some other day). Stayed at BC another night.


expid: AMAD06329
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Wilfried Studer
sponsor: Austrians on Ama Dablam
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2006-10-11
smtdate: 2006-10-25
smttime: 1015
termdate: 2006-10-26
campsites: BC(11/10,4700m),C1(20/10,5760m),C2(24/10,6000m),Smt(25/10)
agency: High Country Trekking
routememo:
  Wilfried, Sylvia and Nima left C2 at 5:45 am on 24 Oct. Weather was perfect. They spent 30 minutes on summit. Fantastic views. They descended to BC where they arrived at 6:30 pm.

  The three daughters got to C1 on 20 Oct and stayed one night. However, they were too cold and did not carry on. They descended to BC.

  Sherpa:
    Nima Sherpa, Kharikhola, 2/12/72 (2029/8/17), Ama Dablam Spring 2006, Cho Oyu

  Sylvia and Studer are husband and wife and their three daughters.


expid: AMAD06330
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Marc Genevois
sponsor: International Ama Dablam Expedition 2006
countries: Belgium, Canada
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2006-10-30
smtdate: 2006-11-12
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2006-11-16
campsites: BC(30/10,4600m),C1(06/11,5800m),C2(11/11,6050m),Smt(12/11)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  Summit team left C2 at 3:30 am. Weather was calm and clear. Amazing view from summit. They spent about 45 minutes on summit. At about 3:45 pm they started descending to C2, where they arrived at 7 pm. On 13 Nov they descended to BC. They did not hear the avalanche that wiped out C3 on 14 Nov. Their departure from BC was delayed by one day due to the avalanche.

  Jespers got to C3 site on 12 Nov, but did not carry on due to fatigue. He stopped at C3 at 10 am, then descended to C2 the same day.

  Team arrived at Lukla on 18 Nov but were stuck there till 24 Nov due to bad weather.


expid: AMAD06331
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Giuseppe Pompili
sponsor: Ama Dablam Expedition 2006
countries: Germany
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2006-10-08
smtdate: 2006-10-25
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2006-10-27
campsites: BC(08/10,4600m),ABC(11/10,5250m),C1(12/10,5650m),C3(24/10,6250m),Smt(25/10)
agency: Sherpa Alpine Trekking
routememo:
  Team left C3 at 6:30 am on 25 Oct. Weather was clear and cold. Dal Cin, Pompili and Rubbani had absolute clear views from the summit. They descended to BC, where they arrived at 6 pm. 

  Hausel, Bernard, Gyalu had Ok views from the summit as it started to cloud over at about 1 pm. They descended to C2, where they arrived at 8 pm.

  Sherpa:
    Gyaluk/Gyalu, Patle, Okhaldhunga, 31 yrs (21/8/75?), Everest Everest X2, 
      Ama Dablam X2


expid: AMAD06332
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Rainer Pircher
sponsor: Amical Alpin Ama Dablam Expedition 2006
countries: Austria
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2006-10-09
smtdate: 2006-10-21
smttime: 1315
termdate: 2006-10-25
campsites: BC(09/10,4600m),ABC(12/10,5400m),C1(15/10,5800m),C3(20/10,6300m),Smt(21/10)
achievment: 1st expedition this season
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Rai)
routememo:
  Summit team left C3 at 7:30 am. Weather was cloudy and it snowed occasionally. They spent about 45 minutes on summit, no views. Everybody of summit team, apart from Pircher, descended to C3, where they arrived at 4 pm. Pircher descended to C1, where he arrived at 6:30 pm.

  Bucher, Kahn and Landwehr reached C1 on 15 Oct and stayed the night, then descended to BC.

  Kahn and Landwehr left BC on 17 Oct due to lack of psychological strength. 

  Bucher ascended to C1 one more time on 19 Oct but abandoned climb due to lack of motivation. 

  Teichert got to 6000m on 20 Oct but turned back due to weakness and he had a cold. He descended to C1, where he stayed the night, then descended to ABC the next day and BC on 22 Oct.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Chhoti Sherpa, Beding, 27/1/81, Everest X4
    Tshering Tashi Sherpa, Khumjung, 7/12/85, Everest X2


expid: AMAD06333
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Reinhard Schertler
sponsor: Independents on Ama Dablam
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2006-10-12
smtdate: 2006-10-23
termdate: 2006-10-24
campsites: BC(12/10,4700m),C1(20/10,5800m),C2(21/10,6000m),C3(22/10,6400m),Smt(23/10)
agency: High Country Trekking
routememo:
  Schertler and Pemba left C3 at 6:30 am. Weather was calm and clear. About 20 cm new snow rope was fixed all the way to the summit. Good views. Weather deteriorated in afternoon and it started snowing. They descended to C1 where they arrived at 6 pm.

  Braito got to 5700m on 20 Oct but turned back due to cold hands. He thought he was getting frostbite. Fingers still numb. He remained in BC for rest of expedition.

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Gyalje Sherpa, Pangkoma, Solu, 29/11/73


expid: AMAD06334
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Robert Steenmeijer
sponsor: Dutch Ama Dablam Expedition 2006
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2006-09-30
smtdate: 2006-10-18
termdate: 2006-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to too dangerous, only partly fixed rope
campsites: BC(30/09,4700m),ABC(05/10,5500m),C1(06/10,5800m),C2(17/10,6100m),xxx(18/10,6200m)
agency: Nepal Sanctuary Treks
routememo:
  High point at 6200m at grey tower.

  Stoop and Steenmeijer left C2 at 5:20 am. Weather was perfect. Bad snow conditions when they got to grey tower. They decided that carrying on would be too dangerous as the rope was badly fixed and only partly fixed. As they thought that Canadian team (Peak Freaks) would fix rope from C2 to C3 they did not bring gear, so they could not do it in alpine style. They descended to C2, where they picked up 3 other members and then down to BC and arrived at 3:30 pm. 

  All other members apart from De Waard, reached C2 but did not carry on as they could not do it alpine style. Riedstra, Moussault, Ernest, Joosen-Stegeman, Spriensma, Van Egten and Stegeman got to C2 on 18 Oct, but did not stay the night as they saw that it would be too difficult. They descended to BC.

  De Waard left BC at 10 Oct as his father, Hans De Waard, suffered a stroke whilst trekking in the Khumbu. De Waard met his father in Pheriche, from where they took a helicopter back to Kathmandu. Eric De Waard got to ABC (5500m) at 9 Oct, but then a porter came from Pheriche to BC to tell him about his father, so he left next day.

  Sherpa:
    Nima Tashi Sherpa, Pangboche, 4/4/60, Everest X7


expid: AMAD06335
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Clive Roberts
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Ama Dablam Expedition 2006
bcdate: 2006-11-05
smtdate: 2006-11-13
termdate: 2006-11-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to fatal avalanche
othersmts: Attempted Pumori (PUMO-063-04) (Williams & Mingma Nuru - Williams hit by avalanche)
campsites: BC(05/11,4500m),ABC(09/11,5300m),C1(11/11,5750m),C2(12/11,6000m),C3(13/11,6400m),xxx(13/11,6400m)
accidents: Fatal avalanche; Roberts chest problem
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  British Ama Dablam - Autumn 2006 (leader Clive Roberts)

  All members did not move together; Williams came from Pumori, was already acclimatized and went up ahead of Gandy and Roberts. They moved as follows:

  Williams & Mingma Nuru Sherpa    Gandy, Roberts & Phurbu Bhote
    5  Nov - arrived BC              9 Nov - arrived BC
    11 Nov - BC to C1               10 Nov - BC to C1 site to BC
    12 Nov - C1 to C2               12 Nov - BC to C1
    13 Nov - C2 to C3               13 Nov - Gandy & Phurbu Bhote to C2
                                    14 Nov - Gandy to C3 accident site

  On the 13th Roberts turned around just below C2 because of a chest problem while Gandy and Phurba went to C2 and stayed there.

  At about 5:00 am on 14 November, a big avalanche struck C3 and carried Williams and Mingma Nuru down to their deaths.

  (There was a second avalanche in the morning and another on at 1:15 pm). Gandy, who was not hit by the avalanching, arrived at C3's site at 1:30 pm and found no trace of the camp or its inhabitants except a metal spoon and two sections of fixed rope that were no longer in place. He made a "cursory search," descended about 100m and sent a message to Roberts, who was in BC, about the devastation. He then went to C2 and stayed there that night in case anyone arrived; on 15th he went down to BC.

  Sherpas:
    Mingma Nuru, 22/4/69, Pangboche, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X3, Lhotse X1
    Phurba Ridar Bhote, 1958, Chepuwa-4, Makalu, Everest X2, K2 X1, Cho Oyu X1


expid: AMAD06336
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Norway
leaders: Sigrid Hammer
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Syangboche by helicopter->Pangboche->Gorakshep->Lobuche
bcdate: 2006-11-21
smtdate: 2006-11-24
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2006-11-25
othersmts: Lobuche East
campsites: C1(21/11,5700m),C2(23/11,6000m),Smt(24/11)
achievment: May be second Norwegian woman to summit
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Hammer and Bhote left C2 at 02:00 hours, reached summit at 13:00 hours, stayed on summit for 10 minutes, descended to C2 at 19:00 hours. Next day to Pangboche. 

  Japanese team summited after Hammer team and one British also summited in later afternoon on same day. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 26 Nov by helicopter. Hammer will leave on 4 Dec.

  Sherpa:
    Tshering Pande Bhote (20-02-1978) Hatiya-1, Sankhuwasabha 
      Everest, 2001, 2004, 2006.
      Cho Oyu 2002, 2003, Shishapangma 2003
      Ama Dablam 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004. 
      Mt Cook 2003, 2004 (new line South Face)
      Mehra 2006 (new peak in Khumbu)

accidents:
  Frostbite in four fingers in right hand and toes of both legs of Hammer (she said doctor told her the frostbites are not serious)


expid: AMAD06337
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Sergei Pereyaslavets
sponsor: International Ama Dablam 2006
countries: Ukraine
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pheriche->BC
bcdate: 2006-10-25
smtdate: 2006-11-06
smttime: 1130
campsites: BC(25/10,4450m),ABC(26/10,5100m),C1(29/10,5700m),C2(30/10,6000m),C3(05/11,6300m),Smt(06/11)
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
routememo:
  ABC - Belov, Pereyaslavets
  C1  - All 3 members
  C2  - Lanko, Pereyaslavets
  C3  - Lanko, Pereyaslavets

  Started from C3 at 08:30, summited at 11:30 am, stayed about 30 minutes. Good weather made photos. 6 Japanese summited before them. On the way down met 1 American and Sherpa and 2 Polish. Came down to C1 about 7 pm. 

  Belov reached C2 on 3 Nov and had to abandon the climb due to broken crampons. They wanted to note that C3 was in very bad condition due to lots of garbage.


expid: AMAD06338
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Tim Mosedale
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Ama Dablam Expedition 2006
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2006-10-29
smtdate: 2006-11-07
smttime: 1145
termdate: 2006-11-14
campsites: BC(29/10,4500m),ABC(01/11,5300m,C1(05/11,5850m),C2(06/11,6000m),C3(06/11,6300m),Smt(07-08,11-12/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Mackenzie left C3 at 9 am on 7 Nov, summited at 11:45 am. Weather was good. He descended to C1, where he arrived at 5:30 pm. 

  Day left C3 at 9:30 am on 8 Nov. Weather was good. He descended to C3, arrived at 4 pm.

  Brett and Ang Namgyal left C3 at 9:30 am on Nov 11, summited at 12:20 pm. Weather was good. Brett descended to C2, arrived at 5 pm. Ang Namgyal arrived at C3 at 1:30 pm and stayed there as he was due to go back to summit the next day.

  Summit team of 12 Nov left C3 at 9:30 am. Weather was good. They descended to C3. Vernon and Benson arrived at 4 pm. Murray and Ang Namgyal at 5:30 pm.

  Mosedale reached C3 on 11 Nov. He did not stay night, descended to BC same day. He did not summit as he gave his space to Murray, as logistics did not allow both. Murray tried to for summit on 11 Nov but turned back 50m above C3 as he was too snow. Mosedale told him to give it another go the next day which he did but Mosedale stayed at BC as there were not enough tents.

  Holding reached C1 on 5 Nov and stayed the night. He abandoned climb due to chest infection and left BC on 8 Nov.

  Smith reached C1 on 2 Nov on acclimatization walk. He did not stay night but returned to ABC. He abandoned climb on 7 Nov due to back pain.

  Sherpa:
    Ang Namgyal Sherpa, Pangboche, 14/5/84
      Cho Oyu with Tim Mosedale in autumn 2006 (1/10/06) 
      Everest Spring 2006


expid: AMAD06339
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Bill Atkinson
sponsor: DCXP Ama Dablam Expedition 2006
countries: New Zealand, UK, USA
bcdate: 2006-10-29
smtdate: 2006-11-03
termdate: 2006-11-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to lack of space in C2 and time limit
othersmts: Lobuche East and Island Peak
campsites: BC(29-30/10,5120m),ABC(01/11,5400m),C1(02/11,5800m),xxx(03/11,6000m)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  ABC at yak camp
  High point at yellow tower.

  First group of five people (leader Atkinson, Coats, Law-Smith, Robertson and Wilson): Phakding, Namche, Monjo, Gokyo Valley, Dole, Marchamo, Gokyo, Thagnac, Dugla, Lobuche BC, Lobuche high camp, Dingboche, Pokhalde, high camp Chhukung, Island Peak BC, Pangboche. 

  Second Group (Bentley, Hallam, Hollingworth, McDonald, Moriarty, Shaw and Williams): Phakding, Namche, Dingboche, Chhukung, Island Peak BC and Pangboche.

  Atkinson, Bentley, Coats, McDonald, Moriarty, Robertson, Shaw, Williams and Wilson and six Sherpas left C1 on 3 Nov for C2. Atkinson said that there were many climbers on the route. The expedition members had to wait for 2-3 hours and it was getting dark, so then descended from 6000m at 14:00 hours to BC between 17:20-18:20 hours. Next day it was snowing and Atkinson tried to negotiate with other expeditions for space at C2, but could not make do so. Then the team decided to leave BC. 

  The expedition returned to Kathmandu on 8 Nov. Members leave on different dates.

  Hallam left BC on 2 Nov; went up to ABC on 1 Nov. 
  Bentley, McDonald and Shaw left BC on 4 Nov.
  Hollingworth was sent back from Pangboche on 31 Oct due to altitude sickness.
  Law-Smith left the expedition on 26 Oct from Chhukung.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Sherpa, Gudel-9, Ramechap, 24/4/81
    Sonam Bhote, Lelep-9, 13/12/81 (28-8-2038)
    Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa, Namche-7, Thami, 22/11/80 (7-8-2037)
    Lhakpa Rangdu, Sotang-6, 18-11-1967
    Densa Bhote, Haliya-1, 30/10/81 (14-7-2038) 
    Pasang Sherpa, Gyabla, Lelep-8, 26/4/85 (14-1-2042)


expid: AMAD06340
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Erik Werner
sponsor: Venture 6 Colorado Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->Gorakshep->Lobuche BC->Smt->Pangboche
bcdate: 2006-11-19
smtdate: 2006-11-24
termdate: 2006-11-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to avalanche disaster and bad route condition, not enough time
campsites: BC(19/11,4500m),ABC(21/11,5000m),C1(22/11,5200m),C2(23/11,5700m),xxx(24/11,6300m)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  Crotwell and Gutmaan left C2 at 10:00 hours and reached C3 between 13:30-14:00 hours. Their plan was to hike up to C3 and if things are Ok to come to C3 next day. But they realized that the route condition was bad and gave up their attempt for summit. C3 was very cold and windy. There was no body on the mountain that day. 

  Cacy went up to ABC on 21 Nov. Her nose was congested and having difficulty breathing and feeling cold. Vachon went up to ABC suffered from cough, did not feel going further up. Werner arrived BC left next day 20 Nov. Werner told members that if they decide to climb the mountain he will leave. Members decided to climb, so Werner left the expedition. Cacy and Vachon left BC on 23 Nov. The two wanted to go for trek but Cacy's nose condition did not improve, so then they stayed in Namche waiting for Crotwell and Gutmann. Crotwell doing alone Gokyo trek and will return to Kathmandu on 2 or 3 Dec. Cacy, Gutmann and Vachon returned to Kathmandu on 29 Nov and will leave on 1 Dec.


  Email from Erik Werner - December 2, 2006

  My reason for aborting the climb of Ama Dablam was that I felt it would be disrespectful to attempt a climb, in the selfish pursuit of happiness and adventure, so soon after 6 people had lost their lives in a tragic accident. Our expedition had just descended from Lobuche base camp and arrived in Pangboche the day the avalanche happened. Initially my thoughts went towards the safety of the route and whether or not it was still climbable. Soon, however, my thoughts turned to the 3 international climbers and 3 Sherpas who lost their lives in the avalanche and how their families must be feeling. The next morning while still in Pangboche, we met the brother of one of the Sherpas who perished. His pain solidified my decision that climbing a mountain in the persuit of joy, while so many were in mourning, was the wrong time to do at that time. Basically, the risk/reward profile had become unbalanced, as the reward side of the equation had vanished for me. I wish I would have come to that realization while still in Pangboche, but it didn't fully grasp me until reached the base camp and felt the full reality of being there. So, there that afternoon I announced my decision to the team and I left the following day.

  Now having some distance from those events, I am very happy with my decision. Although I really wanted to climb Ama Dablam and I felt stronger as a climber than ever had in my life, spiritually and morally I know I made the best choice for me by letting the memories of those who passed have their time and space to heal. Surprisingly, on my hike down the Khumbu to Lukla, I met two others climbers from a separate Ama Dablam expedition who went through the same decision process as I and came to the same conclusion. The gentleman was Bryce, but he was also a member of this fall's American ski descent of Everest team, so I sure you can figure out who he is. He was leaving base camp with a woman - medium height with dark brown or black hair. Both of them also voiced that they felt it would be disrespectful to climb on the mountain so soon after the tragedy.


expid: AMAD06341
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Diego Zubani
sponsor: Club Alpine Italiano Ama Dablam 2006 Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Dingboche->Island Peak->Chhukung
bcdate: 2006-10-16
smtdate: 2006-10-25
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2006-10-27
campsites: BC(16/10,4500m),C1(19/10,5700m),C3(24/10,6320m),Smt(25/10)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Argentero, Bertussi and Zubani left C3 at 06:30 hours, summited at 10:30 hours, stayed on summit 15 minutes, descended to BC at 21:00 hours. Weather was good until 12:00 hours. After that cloudy and snowing. There were 3 other Italian climbers (Pompili team), two Sherpas, two French, maybe one Italian guide with one woman client ahead of Zubani team. 

  The expedition returned to Kathmandu on 29 Oct. All three members will go to Chitwan on 31st and will return to Kathmandu on 2 Nov. Bertussi and Zubani will leave Kathmandu on 4 Nov and  Argentero on 10 Nov.


expid: AMAD06342
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: John Freeman
sponsor: Berg Adventures Ama Dablam Expedition 2006
countries: USA
bcdate: 2006-11-16
smtdate: 2006-11-27
termdate: 2006-11-28
othersmts: Lobuche East
campsites: BC(16/11,4785m)C1(17/11,5700m),C2(26/11,6050m),Smt(27/11)
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  Amantia and Freeman went to C2 site on 19 Nov. Amantia wanted to go as high as he could and stay safe after 13 Nov avalanche. C2 was high enough for him; they had lunch and return to BC (Pasang Tenzing was with them) and down to BC same day. All left BC to Pangboche 20th. Freeman with Amantia to Lukla 22nd. 

  Freeman back to Pangboche on 24th. 25th to C1 (with Kharka Rai, porter). 26th Freeman alone to C2. 27th left C2 at 6:00 am and on top at 3:00 pm having helped two Jagged Globe Sherpas fix rope from C3 to 6600m. Windy but clear on top. Down to C2 at 5:20 pm. 28th to Pangboche.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Tenzing, 21/1/78, Everest X6 (including 18/10/06), Cho Oyu X1
    Kharka Rai (porter)


expid: AMAD06343
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Danny Brown
sponsor: Briton & German on Ama Dablam
countries: Switzerland
approach: Lukla->Namche->Tengboche->Dingboche->Island Peak->Pangboche
bcdate: 2006-11-06
smtdate: 2006-11-08
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2006-11-09
othersmts: Island Peak
campsites: C1(06/11,5800m),C3(07/11,6300m),Smt(08/11)
agency: Himalayan Ecstasy Treks
routememo:
  Brown and Heule left C3 at 07:00 hours, reached summit at 12:00 hours, stayed on summit 20 minutes, descended to C1 about 15:00 hours. Next day to Pangboche. Japanese team summited after Brown team and one British also summited late afternoon on the same day. 

  The expedition team returned to Kathmandu on 12 Nov and will leave on 18 Dec.


expid: AMAD06344
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Chris Atkinson
sponsor: Canadian on Ama Dablam
approach: Mera Peak
termnote: Did not do any climbing (did not get to BC as climb abandoned due to sick mother at home)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Atkinson went with a client to Mera Peak before he was due to go to Ama Dablam. His client got altitude sickness at Mera BC and he returned to Lukla with him. When he arrived in Lukla he checked his email and found out that his mother had fallen seriously ill. He returned to Kathmandu immediately and left for Canada on 22 Nov.


expid: AMAD06345
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Joby Ogwyn
sponsor: Independent climber on Ama Dablam
bcdate: 2006-10-26
smtdate: 2006-10-29
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2006-10-31
campsites: BC(26/10),C1(28/10),Smt(29/10)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC at Todd's special site
  C1 at normal site, where climb actually begins.

  "I don't clip  into all that stuff (old rope), I just climb it." Left C1 at 8:15 am, on top at 2:00 pm and to C1 at 6:30 pm. On "best weather day" had waited 48 hours at BC for change he could see was coming and when left mountain getting cloudy. Was in BC 30th. Made climb to take pictures of Everest for two companies making energy drink and sunglasses.


expid: AMAD06346
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Stuart Remensnyder
sponsor: Field Touring Alpine Ama Dablam Expedition 2006
countries: Australia, Canada, Malaysia, UK
bcdate: 2006-10-22
smtdate: 2006-11-01
smttime: 1045
termdate: 2006-11-08
campsites: BC(22/10,4450m),ABC(25/10,5100m),C1(27/10,5700m),C2(30/10,5950m),C3(31/10,6400m),Smt(01,03/11)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
routememo:
  First summit party all reached summit on 1 Nov. Left C3 at 8:00 am, on top at 10:45-1:00 pm, returned to C3 at various times.

  Second party all left C3 on Nov 3 at 9:00 am, on top at 1:00 pm and back to C3 for the night despite 30-40 mph wind and lots of spindrift. 

  Third party of Kuppusamy and Parsu Ram "Tshering" Rai left for top from C2 at 3:30 am on 5 Nov, turned around at 6600m at 1:30 pm in whiteout and Kuppusamy weak from stomach problem day before; returned to C2. 

  Wong got nasal problem, trouble breathing, got to ABC site only and left expedition 29 Oct.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Sherpa, 25/7/68 (10/4/2025), Tamku-9, Sankhuwasabha, no 8000ers
    Parsu Ram (Tshering) Rai, 1969, Rakha-1, Dhirtel, no 8000ers


expid: AMAD06347
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Denmark
leaders: Mark Jensen
sponsor: SummitClimb Ama Dablam Expedition 2006
countries: Italy, Norway, UK, USA
bcdate: 2006-10-07
smtdate: 2006-10-23
termdate: 2006-10-27
campsites: BC(07/10,455m),ABC(10/10,5300m),C1(13/10,5670m),C2(17/10,5900m),C3(23/10,6300m),Smt(23-25/10)
accidents: Malia mild frostbitten fingers because inadequate gloves
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  SummitClimb International Ama Dablam 2006 - Autumn 2006
  Led by Mark Jensen & Douglas Sandok for Dan Mazur's Summit Climb

  Summit on 23 Oct by Shera, who was fixing rope, finished the job but just kept on going up to the summit.

  Summit on 24 Oct by Ambrosi, Hansen, Jensen, Malia, Millegan, Sandok, Lhakpa (Kongle), Phuri, Pasang Gelu, and Lhakpa Kormu. Team left C3 at 8:00 am, were on the summit between 12:30 and 1:30 pm, and all back to C3 at about 3:30 pm for the night except Hansen, who went down to C2 at 5:30-6:00 pm.

  Summit on 25 Oct by Askeland, Ormasen, Jangbu, Tenji and Miss Usha Bista who was in training to be a climber and was hired as team helper. Team left C3 at 7:30 am, were on the summit between 11:00 am and 1:00 pm, and all down to base camp the same day except Usha, who needed to stop in C2, and Jangbu and Tenji, who stayed with her to help her continue her descent next day.

  Non-summiting members:
    Bakkeng to about 6000m on 23rd
    Biglino left team on 22nd - too much discomfort and struggle
    Blodgett left on 20th - did not like presence of fixed lines and such a crowd of
      climbers
    Boersma to 5900m on 16th, on 17th left team - mountain too difficult technically
    Breemer left team on 20th with Blodgett for same reasons
    Haugland to C2
    Johansen to C3 and then developed chest problem, which prevented his going for 
      the summit
    Meling got to C1, then lost motivation to go higher but stayed with the team.
    Sandbakk to 6100m on 23rd

  Sherpas:
    Shera (aka Ang Shera) Sherpa, 22/4/76 (10/1/2033), Patle, no 8000ers
    Lhakpa (aka Kongle) Sherpa, 24/1/64, Patle, Everest 5/6/05
    Phuri Sherpa, 27/4/69, Patle, Everest X2
    Pasang Gelu Sherpa, 4/11/65, Gudel, Solu, Everest 25/5/06 (??)
    Lhakpa Kormu Sherpa, 28/3/77 (15/12/2033), Patle, no 8000ers
    Jangbu Sherpa, 24/5/67, Patle, Everest X2
    Tenji Sherpa, 1/6/82, Patle, Everest X3


expid: AMAD06348
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Tim Rippel
sponsor: Peak Freaks Ama Dablam Expedition 2006
countries: Australia, Greece, Lithuania, UK
bcdate: 2006-10-01
smtdate: 2006-10-14
termdate: 2006-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6150 due to unstable snow conditions and oncoming storm
campsites: BC(01/10,4600m),ABC(05/10,5200m),C1(08/10,5750m,C2(12/10,6000m),xxx(14/10,6150m)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  BC on normal site
  C1 at SW Ridge
  Sherpas high point on 14 Oct by Dendi and Ngima Tsering at 6150m.

  Climb abandoned because dangerously deep unstable snow on the ridge and clouds movement indicated snowstorm coming. On 13th members turned back at 6100m because of dangerous snow and on 14th Oct Sherpas turned back at 6150m for same reason; thigh-deep snow, which other climbers fell through onto rocks.

  Sherpas:
    Dendi, Chaurikharka, 30 years old
    Ngima Tsering, 19, Khunde


expid: AMAD06349
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Michael Bromley
sponsor: Britons on Ama Dablam
approach: Charikot->Beding->Tashi Laptsa->Pangboche
bcdate: 2006-11-22
smtdate: 2006-11-24
termdate: 2006-11-27
termnote: Abandoned at 5700m due to AMS symptoms by Nicholson
campsites: BC(22/11,4600m),xxx(24/11,5700m)
accidents: Nicholson AMS symptoms (headache, sickness)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  Team left BC at 10 am on 24 Nov. Weather was clear but windy they arrived at C1 at 3 pm. They pitched their tent about 100m below C1 as Nicholson was already feeling ill. They had some tea but after 1 hour they descended to BC, where they arrived at 7 pm. Nicholson felt better, once he was at BC. They all returned together because they wanted to climb as a team. Also lack of motivation due to avalanche of 13 Nov.


expid: AMAD06350
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Norbert Joos
sponsor: Swiss on Ama Dablam
agency: Himalayan High Country Treks
routememo:
  From Lukla went to Thami and Renjo La to Gokyo and woke up like an old man (problem breathing) and may need more time to recover from heart operation last Aug (had hole in heart). So down to Namche and Lukla and never went to BC.


expid: AMAD06351
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Justin Merle
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Ama Dablam Expedition 2006
bcdate: 2006-10-22
smtdate: 2006-10-31
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2006-11-02
campsites: BC(22/10,4572m),C1(25/10,5791m),C2(30/10,6035m),Smt(31/10)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  Summiters left C2 at 4:30 am 31 Oct and on top 11:00 am, left top at 11:30 am in cloudy weather and starting to snow as usual; back to C2 3:30 pm.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Kami Tshering, aka Ang Tshering, 1962, Pangboche, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X5
    Ang Pasang, 11/2/66, Pangboche, Everest X3 including 17/5/93, Cho Oyu X4


expid: AMAD06352
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Miles Smart
sponsor: Americans on Ama Dablam (Mountain Madness)
approach: Lukla->Namche->Dingboche
bcdate: 2006-10-25
smtdate: 2006-11-05
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2006-11-07
campsites: BC(25/10,4600m),ABC(28/10,5200m),C1(31/10,5700m),C2(04/11,6400m),Smt(05/11)
accidents: Wiedemer altitude sickness; Rehfeld cough and cold that persisted
agency: Mountain Madness
routememo:
  Miles Smart and Eric Dazell made their summit trip from base camp to top to base camp in two and half days. They left base camp at 7:00 am on 4 Nov, slept in C2 that night, left it at 4:00 am and were on the top at 11:00 am of the 5th, arrived back in C2 at 3:00 pm to sleep, and returned to base camp at 1:00 pm on the 6th. On their summit day, the weather "was perfect, no clouds, warm, no wind, full moon," says Smart on 10 Dec.

  All camps were established for them by Henry Todd's Sherpas, Pasang Dawa (Pa Dawa) and Gurmin. "They set up camps for us as we needed them a day or two before we used them," says Smart in his 11 Dec email. We were the first to use all the tents, then other people used them after us."

  They had "three porters up and two down (who) carried basically everything we used on the mountain: food, climbing gear, sleeping bags, boots, etc. They went up the day before we slept at ABC, then again the day we slept at C1. The day we descended from C2 to BC the porters met our 2 loads at C1 and brought them down. We carried everything we used on the mountain from C1 to C2 except tent." (Smart's 10 Dec email).

  These local porters came from Gudel vdc, Solu, according to Todd's non-climbing sirdar, Kami Nuru, who lives in Kathmandu. They were Deepak Rai, Talktse Rai and Ganesh Bahadur Rai.

  Kami Nuru confirmed that this team were the first foreigners to occupy Todd's camps; base camp was occupied on 23 Oct by the staff. Todd provided not only the tents but also all food, two climbing Sherpas, Gurmin and Pasang Dawa (aka Pa Dawa), and kitchen staff.

  Eugene (Gene) Rehfeld got to C1 and slept there during the team's acclimatization climb early in the trip, but after his return to BC, he got a bad cough and cold which persisted. He remained at BC till the summit party returned to base.

  James (Jim) Wiedemer arrived at BC with the team on 25 October, spent one night there, developed "moderate or worse AMS," left the mountain on the 26th, and spent four days in Pangboche. "The AMS got better, but snowballed into other things, which ended the trip for him," says Smart on 10 December. He trekked to Lukla with Henry Todd.


expid: AMAD06353
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Jang-Weon
sponsor: 2006 Sulwoo Alpine Club Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Deboche
bcdate: 2006-11-01
smtdate: 2006-11-12
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2006-11-15
campsites: BC(01/11,4670m),ABC(03/11,5780m),C1(04/11,5820m),C3(11/11,6320m),Smt(12/11)
accidents: Kim Kyu-Tae suffered from stomach pain and vomit
agency: Korean Treks & Expeditions
routememo:
  Kim Kyoung-Rae, Lee, Oh, Seo, Ang Dawa and Pema Chhiring left C3 at 05:00 hors on 12 Nov, reached summit at 09:00 hours, stayed on summit about an hour, descended to C3 at 12:30 hours. Then to BC. Seo and Ang Dawa and Pema Tshering stayed at C1, next day to BC. There were two Italians on summit on the summit day. Weather ws very good - good view of Everest and other mountains. 

  Kim Kyu-Tae had to leave BC on 8 Nov due to stomach and vomit. He could not eat for five days. He is Ok in Kathmandu. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 17 Nov and will leave on 20th.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Dawa, 27/4/81, Tashigaon, Makalu-5
    Pema Tshering Sherpa, 16-06-1970, Makalu-9, Upper Walung, 
      Everest 26/5/2003 and 16/5/2004, Dhaulagiri 4/5/2005, GI and GII


expid: AMAD06354
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Neal Short
sponsor: Jagged Globe Ama Dablam Expedition 2006
countries: Australia, Netherlands, S Africa
bcdate: 2006-11-20
smtdate: 2006-12-02
smttime: 1345
termdate: 2006-12-06
campsites: BC(20/11,4600m),ABC(23/11,5400m),C1(28/11,5700m),C2(30/11,5900m),C3(01/12,6200m),Smt(02,04/12)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  C2 lower than normal site because normal site strewn with ice blocks and remnants of gear, "didn't feel right" to camp where fatal avalanche had hit and this lower site better protected but rather restricted space (only 2 tents with 3 people each in a squeeze). 

  Summit party of 2nd: left C2 at 8:30 am; Hicks turned back at 6282m (just below old C3) and down to C1; Briggs turned around at 6400m: ran of energy and down to C3. All others in party to top at 1:45 pm (Weight and Tashi) and at 2:15 (Goddard) and C3 at 5:45 and 6:10 pm respectively. 

  4th Dec summit party of Wheeldon and Pema Tshering left C3 at 6:30 am, arrive top at 10:50 am and in C2 at 6:00 pm (Wheeldon fell 15 m where anchor came out at about 6000m but only bruised). Weight had also fallen 4m into bergschrung at 6350m when put foot into what was actually empty space (also not hurt) on his descent from top but was attached to fixed rope.

  This team last on mountain and it was "beautiful." 


expid: AMAD06358
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Henry Todd, Kami Nuru Sherpa
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Canada, Nepal, S Africa, USA
bcdate: 2006-11-04
smtdate: 2006-11-11
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2006-11-17
campsites: BC(04/11,4600m),ABC(06/11,5400m),C1(08/11,5900m),C2(09/11,6200m),C3(10/11,6400m),Smt(11/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Ama Dablam team led by Henry Todd and Kami Nuru Sherpa - Aut 2006

  Henry Todd went to see that all was in order and arrived at base camp on 27 Oct, climbed that day to C1, slept in base camp that night and left on the 28th. Kami Nuru Sherpa was the team's leader thereafter; after members arrived he spent 70% of his time in base camp and 30% in his home village, Pangboche, nearby.

  The summit team of Carl Griffiths, Michael Kenny, Grant Meekins and Pasang Dawa left C3 at 7:45 am on 11 November and were on the summit at 12:30 pm. They returned to C3 at 3:00 pm and slept in it that night. Griffiths was a client of Meekins, a professional guide.

  Non-summiting members in addition to Todd:

  Cowen went to C2 on 7 Nov, was not well, left the team on 11 Nov with Harling.

  Harling went to C2 with Cowen on the 7th, his feet got cold and he left the team with Cowen on the 11th.

  Hartley climbed with Pearce and Gurmin Dorje; went to C2 on 7th or 8th Nov, got cold feet and left team on the 13th.

  Hudson got to C1 only on the 6th, had bad cough, left team on the 8th.

  Pearce climbed with Hartley and Gurmin Dorje; reached C2, found the mountain was too steep, left on the 13th.

  Reeder went only as high as 5700m on the 15th, had no more desire to climb Ama Dablam and left on 16th or 17th.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Dawa, aka Pa Dawa, 18/1/77, Pangboche, Everst X7, Cho Oyu X4, Lhotse X1
    Gurmin Dorje, 23/7/76, Pangboche, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1


expid: AMAD06303
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Robert (Bo) Parfet
sponsor: American on Ama Dablam
approach: By helicopter to Pangboche
bcdate: 2006-10-11
smtdate: 2006-10-17
termdate: 2006-10-18
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m because route not fixed and lack of time
othersmts: Climbed Cho Oyu 30 Sept (CHOY-063-54)
campsites: BC(11/10),C1(17/10,5900m),xxx(17/10,5900m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC at Pangboche (was acclimatized from summiting Cho Oyu)
  High point at C1.

  Parfet left after having reached only C1 because route not fixed to C3 and he wanted to be in US for father's 60th birthday on 21 Oct. 

  He returned to KTM by helicopter and caught plane to USA same day. Had trekked from BC to Namche on 18 Oct.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Dawa, aka Pa Dawa, 18/1/79, Everest X7, Lhotse X1, Cho Oyu X4


expid: AMAD06355
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Sumit Joshi
sponsor: Australia to Ama Dablam
countries: Australia
approach: Lukla->Namche->Gyoko->Namche->Tengboche
bcdate: 2006-10-27
smtdate: 2006-11-03
termdate: 2006-11-06
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to bad weather and time
campsites: BC(27/10,4560m),C1(29/10,5760m),C2(01/11,6000m),C3(03/11,6350m),xxx(03/11,6400m)
accidents: Chhetri had accident at about 6000m causing tearing of his ligaments
agency: Nomad Expeditions
routememo:
  Joshi, Mader, Waters and Wiessner went up to 6400m on 3 Nov. Weather was very bad and windy, so they descended to C3. On 4 Nov started snow fall. Joshi, Waters and Wiessner descended to BC.

  Chhetri while descending had accident between C2 and C1. On 4 Nov other climbers helped him to descend to BC. Chhetri was evacuated from BC on 6 Nov. He left for Delhi on 8 Nov. Rest of the team returned to Kathmandu on 8 Nov and will leave on different dates. Waters left on 10 Nov. Wiessner and Mader on 15th, Joshi on 14th.


  Email from Rajan Chhetri - Dec 13, 2006

  The highest altitude I got up to would be around 6400m [6200m], the same height as the mushroom ridge. I don't know if I reached the mushroom ridge but I was very close to it. As I did not have an altimeter with me at that time, I can give you the exact altitude that I got to.

  The reason why I decided to turn back: 1) relatively bad weather 2) The previously set turn back time 3) Also I was not carrying any food or stove with me.

  I did have an accident between C2 and C1 on my way back to base camp. The accident happened on a tricky abseil when the rope moved above me and threw off balance causing the pack on my back to pull me upside down. The rope hit me on the knee instantly tearing my ligaments. I've found from my MRI scan that I have torn medial ligament, posterior cruciate ligament and the anterior cruciate ligament as well. I was helped by Kaska Karwaycka from Poland as she was the first person on the scene. I used her radio to notify base camp. Then Sumit Joshi tried to organize a rescue from base camp and also asked people from higher camp to help me out. John Mader from my team who was at C2 came down immediately to help me, but took him more than two hours to reach me. We made a support for my knee using my sleeping mat as it didn't support my body weight properly. After that, I continued abseiling down to C1 with John who stayed with me all the way to C1. I left my pack at the scene of accident and our friend, mountain guide, Lhakpa (Sherpa?) brought it down for me later on. We stayed at C1 that night and I left for base camp in the morning still doing the same with Mingma Sherpa. About 400 meters below C1, I met Kancha and he and Mingma carried me on the doko on easier sections while I walked on the difficult sections using my poles. On this section I was helped by an American guide Stu with keeping my knee immobilized. We reached base camp around 3:30 and waited for the helicopter. The helicopter arrived the next day and I went to see the doctors the same day. I think the accident may have happened around 6000m, on the yellow tower. (I'm not sure about the alitude again.)


expid: AMAD06356
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Paul Crosby, Ivan Scrase
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Ama Dablam Independent team
bcdate: 2006-10-27
smtdate: 2006-11-05
termdate: 2006-11-08
campsites: BC(27/10,4500m),ABC(5300m),C1(5750m),C2(03/11,6000m),C3(04/11,6400m),Smt(05/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Members climbed on two "ropes" with Crosby and Scrase on one and Holmes and Nilles on the other. They moved up the mountain one day apart with one tent per party, moving their tent up to each camp site as they went up and and down the mountain. 

  Crosby and Scrase went to the top from C3's site on 5 Nov and down to C2 site. 

  Holmes and Nilles were on the top at 6:00 am on the 6 Nov and descended to BC the same day, arrived at BC at 8:00-9:00 pm extremely tired. Holmes big toes were black from frostbite.


expid: AMAD06359
peakid: AMAD
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Owen Davis
sponsor: Australian Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 2006-11-26
smtdate: 2006-11-30
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2006-12-03
campsites: BC(26/11,4600m),C1(28/11,5700m),C2(29/11,5900m),Smt(30/11)
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
routememo:
  Davis summited alone on 30 Nov at about 10 am and returned to C2 that day.

  Worthington did not go above C2 and team did not go onto West Face as originally planned because Worthington not fit enough.

  From BC they trekked to Lobuche East to do some ice climbing, but mountain not in condition for that. They returned to Kathmandu 8 Dec.


expid: ANN406301
peakid: ANN4
year: 2006
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Alex Gisler
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Annapurna IV Expedition 2006
ascent1: 32nd
countries: Germany
approach: Road to Pokhara, chopper to Hongde, west to Manang Mtnring School
bcdate: 2006-10-14
smtdate: 2006-10-29
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2006-10-31
campsites: BC(14/10,4800m),C1(18/10,5150m),C2(22/10,6150m),C3(28/10,6750m),Smt(29/10)
accidents: Locker's leg arteries problem and frostbite
agency: Iceland Trekking (Dorje)
routememo:
  C1 at northern slope
  C2 at northern slope
  C3 at NW Ridge.

  All members went to C3 on 28 Oct but weather very cold on 29th morning; -25 degrees, so Streit and Wirth stayed in camp when all others set out for top. Only Gisler and 2 Sherpas reached top; others turned back because of the cold: Till at 6900m; Locher, Tanner and Winistoerfer at 7000m and Bischof at 7250m. Locher's toes got frostbitten and this resulted in arteries in his leg closing, requiring hospitalization in KTM (Gisler and Locher were brought to Kathmandu by army helicopter on 1st Nov while rest of team came on 2 Nov by chartered commercial helicopter). Summit party left C3 at 4:00 am, summiters on top at 12:00 and all team down to C2 between 1:00 and 3:00 pm, Sherpas on down to BC.

  Sherpa summiters: 
    Da Nima, 18/6/72, Bhakanje, Everest X3 including S-N traverse 17/05/05
    Mitenjen, 37, Makalu-5, Cho Oyu, Xixa


expid: BARU06302
peakid: BARU
year: 2006
route1: SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Nicolas Tricou
sponsor: Les Gets Baruntse 2006 Expedition
approach: Lukla->Mera Peak->Mera La
bcdate: 2006-10-08
smtdate: 2006-10-12
termdate: 2006-10-14
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to too much snow
othersmts: Mera Peak
campsites: BC(08/10,5440m),xxx(12/10,6100m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Parajuli)
routememo:
  On 10 Oct team went to below West Col on skies. On 11 Oct Tricou went to about 5900m on skies to leave some material. He deposited it just below West Col. On 12 Oct West Col team left BC at 8:30 am and arrived at West col at 12 Noon. The weather was good. They left some material on West Col and returned to BC, where they arrived at 3:30 pm. Tricou had stayed at BC that day as he had been to 5900m the previous day. In the evening of 12 Oct team decided to abandon climb due to too much snow and difficult snow conditions. On 13 Oct Sherpas picked up deposited material at West Col. They left BC on 14 Oct via Amphu Laptsa.


expid: BARU06303
peakid: BARU
year: 2006
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Rene Tomio
sponsor: French on Baruntse
approach: Lukla->Zatra La->Mera Peak
bcdate: 2006-10-11
smtdate: 2006-10-12
termdate: 2006-10-14
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to bad snow conditions
othersmts: Mera Peak and Island Peak
campsites: BC(11/10,5400m),xxx(12/10,6100m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Rai)
routememo:
  High point at West Col.

  Cordola, Gotti and Tashi Sherpa left BC at 7 am on 12 Oct. The weather was good. Arrived at C1 at midday and left material and tents there. They returned to BC the same day. On 13 Oct Gotti went back to C1 to collect material.

  Tomio and Fattccioli stayed at BC as they waited for Tashi to decide whether snow conditions would be good enough. They left BC via Amphu Laptsa and climbed Island Peak.

  Sherpa
    Tashi Sherpa, 9/3/75, Phortse


expid: BARU06304
peakid: BARU
year: 2006
route1: W side of SE Ridge from W
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Tomaz Humar
sponsor: Humar Baruntse Expedition
ascent1: 71st
bcdate: 2006-10-24
smtdate: 2006-10-30
smttime: 0520
termdate: 2006-11-01
campsites: BC(24/10,5435m),Smt(30/10)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at northwest end of Panch Pokhari.

  Very cold (-20 degrees C at BC) and windy; sunny in morning and snowy in afternoon. 26th Humar, Ros went to look at West Face from West Col but it was foggy and wouldn't see wall. 29th Humar and kitchen boy Pemba to 6300m on southern slopes of Baruntse crossing crevasse, not knowing exactly where they were. Next morning up to 6600m west side of SE Ridge. Got to vertical rock pillar where kitchen boy turned back. Humar tried to get up pillar, but 5m from top all covered by sugar snow or another section overhanging cornice and after 1 hour got up its west side and traversed West Face at 6600-6800m altitude where faced alternated pillars and couloirs and its "a long ridge." At top at 5:20 pm just after sun had gone behind mountains. Stayed one minute there and retraced route fast, really running down; did vertical pillar in darkness, wind blowing, no headlamp. Came to place where had left stick (where kitchen boy had turned back) and know he was on right track. On down to 6300m where Pemba waiting for him in small tent they had pitched on 20th. Stayed that night in tent. 31st returned to BC by lunch time.

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Tshering, about 24 years old, Tashigaon


expid: CHOY06355
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Kenton Cool
sponsor: Ski Cho Oyu 2006 (ICE 8000 permit)
countries: Australia
approach: 7 members went via Lhasa; Cool, Casserley and Willett via Tingri
bcdate: 2006-09-03
smtdate: 2006-10-02
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2006-10-05
campsites: BC(03/09,4900m),ABC(07/09,5700m),C1(15/09,6450m),C2(20/09,7100m),C3(01/10,7450m),Smt(02/10)
accidents: Tom Avery retinal hemorrhage
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Cool, Farr and Tika left C3 at 1 am (NT). Weather was clear, good views of Everest. Spent 1 hour on summit. Cool skied all the way to C2, wehre he arrived at 10 am. Farr was also intending to ski down but as he did not wear ski boots, on way up his boots had frozen in bag. Farr and Tika walked down new route put in by Russell Brice this year. Brice's route veers off to left just below rock band and rejoins original route just above rock band.

  James, Ramsden, Casserley, Lhakpa and [Gurmin Dorje] left C2 at 11:30 pm on 1 Oct. After the summit they descended to C2, where they arrived at 1 am. 

  The next day everybody walked down to ABC, Cool skied down. He did not ski icefall between C1 and C2, but abseiled. 

  Avery reached C1 on 11 Sept. He suffered retinal hemorrhage and descended to ABC same day, where Extreme Everest Doctors treated him. He returned to Kathmandu on 15 Sept and left for UK on 17 Sept.

  Moore reached C3 on 1 Oct but abandoned climb due to stomach problems.

  Samara reached C2 on 18 Sept. He called off expedition due to time pressure since he had to be back in London for his studies at the London School of Economics. He left ABC on 26 Sept.

  Stephens reached 7200m on 1 Oct. He turned back due to fatigue.

  Willet got to C2 on 1 Oct. He did not join others on summit push due to stomach problems.
   
  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Thundu/Tundu, 20/5/70, Pangboche
      Everest: 2001, 2004
      Annapurna I: 2002
      Summited Cho Oyu on 1 Oct 2006 with Tim Mosedale's expedition
    Pasang Dawa (aka Pa Dawa) Pangboche, 18/1/77
      Everest X7
      Cho Oyu X3
      Lhotse X1
    Tika Bahadur Tamang, Age: 34, Rampur VDC ward 8, Ramechhap
      No 8000ers before

  Lhakpa Thundu summited after having summitted with Henry Todd's team on 30th Sept and with Tim Mosedale's team on 1 Oct.

  [Gurmin Dorje] summited after having summited with Henry Todd's team on 30 Sept and with Victor Saunders' team on 1 Oct. 


expid: CHOY06356
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Victor Saunders
sponsor: Saunders International Cho Oyu Expedition (ICE 8000 permit)
countries: Belgium, USA
bcdate: 2006-09-09
smtdate: 2006-10-01
smttime: 0715
termdate: 2006-10-03
campsites: BC(09/09),ABC(13/09,5700m),C1(15/09,6400m),C2(18/09,7150m),Smt(1/10)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Long period of snowfall. 30th again to C2 and from there directly to top in 7-1/2 hours. On top 7:15-7:45 am NST; left C2 midnight. Saw Everest from top.

  Oxygen used members summit day from C2 since had not gone higher earlier and made no C3; Sherpas oxygen from C3. All to top to C2 (Sherpas again to top with Cool's group from C2). Returned to ABC 2nd after spending night of 1st in C2.

  Both Sherpas went to summit from C2 after having climbed to the summit with Henry Todd on 30th Sept.

  Sherpas: 
    Pasang Dawa/Pa Dawa, 18/1/77, Pangboche, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X3, Lhotse X1
    Gurmin Dorje, 23/7/76, Pangboche, Everest X3


expid: CHOY06357
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Luis Benitez
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Cho Oyu Expedition 2006
countries: Australia, Belgium, UK
bcdate: 2006-09-08
smtdate: 2006-10-03
smttime: 0915
termdate: 2006-10-07
campsites: BC(08/09),ABC(10/09,5550m),C1(17/09,6400m),C2(21/09,7200m),Smt(03/10)
accidents: Curtis's cerebral edema
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  ABC at 50m below others lowest of the ABC's this autumn.

  No C3 because of long snowstorm; in summit bid went nonstop from C2. Summit party Glorie, Rogers, Lhakpa Tharke, Chuldim, Pasang Bhote and Sange Dorje left C2 at 10:00 pm NST on 2 Sept and got to top at at 9:15 am NST and returned to C2 by noon and slept there. All in ABC on 4 Oct.

  Oxygen all in summit party who were members in C2 to top to and in C2; also Benitez and Curtis in C2 night of 2 Oct (although Curtis found mask too annoying and took it off); they had expected to go for top too, but when Curtis woke up to prepare for summit bid, he was in early stage of cerebral edema and had to descend and Benitez escorted him between C1 and C2. Cubitt ran out of energy after reaching C2. Both left expedition.

  Sherpas:
    Chuldim, aka Chuldim Dorje, 26/11/63, Khumjung, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X3
    Pasang Bhote, 21, Chepuwa, Makalu, Everest X1
    Sange Dorje, 29, Khumjung, Everest X1


expid: CHOY06358
peakid: CHOY
year: 2006
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Michael Hamill
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Cho Oyu Expedition 2006
countries: France, Mexico, UK
approach: Members to Lhasa from Beijing, Sherpas by road from Kathmandu
bcdate: 2006-09-01
smtdate: 2006-10-02
smttime: 0505
termdate: 2006-10-05
campsites: BC(01/09),ABC(05/09,5600m),C1(12/09,6280m),C2(17/09,7000m),C3(01/10,7450m),Smt(02/10)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  Climbing days out of 5 weeks because of weather and without oxygen. 2nd acclimatization went to 7500m.

  American, etc. Cho Oyu Expedition led by Mike Hamill - Autumn 2006

  Report by Ang Jangbu Sherpa of Great Escapes Trekking: He was at advance base camp throughout the climb, and kept a record of it for E. Hawley at her request since team did not come to Kathmandu either before of after their climb.

  Midway through the climb, two members, Borland and Bridges, dropped out because the mountain was too big. They turned around on 18 Sept and left the mountain on 20 or 21 Sept.

  Two other members, Johnson and Sauvage, turned around at C1 on 30 Sept because they were too cold; they went no higher.

  Summit party left C3 from 1:00 to 1:30 am (NST) on 2 October and summited from 5:05-6:20 am. The members were: Des Jardins, Messner, Patterson, Harter, Vallejo, Vaream and Hamill.

  After summit Patterson descended all the way to ABC same day; Harter and Vallejo stayed in C2; Des Jardins, Messner, Vaream and Hamill descended to C1.

  Sherpas:
    Tashi Tshering, 18/4/70, Pangboche, Everest X11, Cho Oyu X2
    Mingma Tenzing, 1/6/86, Phortse, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X2
    Dawa Nuru aka Danuru, 26/10/78, Phortse, Everest X8, Cho Oyu X6, Manaslu X1
    Phu Nuru, 16/5/80, Phortse, Cho Oyu X5, Everest X2

  Tibetans: 
    Tashi Tsering, 11/5/87, Shigatse, [Everest X3, Cho Oyu X3 ??]
    Danzeng (Tenzing), 1/7/84, Tingri, 1st 8000er
    Tse Dan Qiu Mie, 9/7/85, Nyalam, Cho Oyu X1
    Small Tsering Dunzhu, 1/7/88, Lingdri area/Miling county, Cho Oyu X1

  All climbers were in ABC on the 3rd. Team left ABC on 5 October. Members to Shigatse on 6 Oct, Lhasa on the 7th, Beijing on the 8th. Sherpas to Kathmandu on the 7th.


  Mike Hammil's Cho Oyu Aut 2006
  Record by Ang Jangbu of Great Escapes

  28/8  Sherpa team reached Tingri
  29/8  Sherpa team to BC
  30/8  Members arrived Tingri from Shigatse
  31/8  Tingri
   1/9  Tingri - BC, half Sherpa team to ABC with 30 yaks
   4/9  BC- IC
   7/9  ABC puja
   8/9  established C1
  12/9  members slept at C1
  13/9  members down from C1
  16/9  first team to C1 sleep
  17/9  first team to C2 sleep, second team to C1
  18/9  second team to C2, first team back to C1 
        Borland and Steve Bridges turned around; left 20-21 mountain since too big
  29/9  Yellow Band fixed by ---
        summit team left for C1
  30/9  summit team to C2
        Martin and Agnes turned at C1 too cold
  1/10  team to C3
  2/10  team left C3 at 1:00-1:30 am NST
        summit 5:05-6:20 J Patterson came all the way down to ABC. James 
        Marter and Carlos stayed at C2. Hamil, Peter, Nicky, Phil came to C1.
  3/10  ABC - everyone came to ABC
  4/10  Yaks arrived
  5/10  ABC - Tingri
  6/10  Team to Shigatse, Sherpas to Kathmandu
  7/10  Team to Lhasa
  8/10  Team to Beijing

  More information about this expedition on www.mountainguides.com


