# exped

expid: EVER14163
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Olivier Ruembelli
sponsor: Swiss on Everest North Spring 2014
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2014-04-17
smtdate: 2014-04-23
termdate: 2014-05-04
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to cerebral edema
campsites: BC(17/04,5200m),ABC(23/04,6400m),xxx(23-25/04,6400m)
accidents: Cerebral edema at 6400m at ABC
agency: Expedition Himalaya (Seven Summit Treks pmt)
routememo:
  Ruembelli contracted cerebral edema at ABC on 23 April and was evacuated on a yak from ABC to BC with oxygen on 25 April.

  Sherpa:
    Palden Nima, 29/8/78 (2035/5/13), Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha

  Ruembelli was a part of the Seven Summit Treks commercial group that included 4 Maltese, one Brazilian, one Japanese and one French.


expid: EVER14165
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Scott Patch
sponsor: SummitClimb Everest Expedition 2014
countries: Australia, Austria, Denmark, Finland, France
bcdate: 2014-04-14
smtdate: 2014-05-25
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2014-06-01
campsites: BC(14/04,5150m),ABC(21/04,6400m),C1(07/05,7000m),C2(23/05,7600m),C3(21/05,8400m),Smt(25/05)
accidents: Williams had altitude sickness
achievment: 1st summiter from Faroe Islands (Arne Vatnhamar)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  The summit party left C3 at 8:15 pm (NST) on 24 May, reached the summit at 6:30 am on the 25th, and all returned to C1 between 5:15 and 7:00 pm later that day except for Vatnhamar, who stopped for the night at C2 at 6:15 pm.  All were in ABC the next day.

  Members used oxygen for climbing and sleeping from C2 to the summit and down to C1. Sherpas used it from C2 to the top to C2.

  The only non-summiting member was Williams. He developed altitude sickness on 7 May as he climbed with the team to estabish C1 at 7000m. He left from BC the next day.

  Sherpas summiters:
    Chhewang Karma, 28/1/89, Patle, Everest X1
    Dorje Sherpa, 8/9/85, Patle, Lhotse X2
    Gyalzen Sherpa, about 24 yrs old, Patle, no 8000ers
    Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa, 13/4/77, Thumduk, Beni-3, Solu, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X8,
      Lhotse X1
    Lhakpa Tendu Sherpa, 28/3/77, Patle, Cho Oyu X1


expid: EVER14166
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Alex Abramov
sponsor: Seven Summits Club Everest Expedition 2014
countries: Canada, Ireland, Poland, UK, Ukraine
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->Shigar
bcdate: 2014-04-17
smtdate: 2014-05-24
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2014-05-28
agency: 7 Summits Adventure
campsites:
  BC(17/04,5100m),IC(20/04,5800m),ABC(28/04,6400m),C1(01/05,7000m),C2(22/05,7700m),C3(23/05,8300m),Smt(24-25/05)

routememo:
  The first group of climbers, Abuev, Berdychowski, Dmitriev, Hanna, Ernitskiy, Lachkaren, Mahon, Umrilov with Pemba Norbu, Rinje, Ngima Ongdi, Dorchi, Rinjen, Ram Nurbu and Pasang Gyalzen started their summit push from C3 at 11:30 pm/NST on 23 May. All members and Sherpas got to the top between 6:30-7 am of 24 May. They stayed on summit for about 30 minutes and returned C3 between 10:30 am - 2:30 pm. All members and Sherpas went down to ABC where they arrived between 4-10 pm. The summit day weather was windy but clear. About 40 climbers summited on that day.

  The second group of climbers, Abramov, Bautin, Chamgoulov, Ermakov, Matusova, Stoliarov, Seleznev, [Voronin,] Zadarnowska-Wingert, Pemba Rinjin, Mingma Dorchi, Ang Dawa, Nima Dorje, Phurbu Kusang, Ming Temba [and Nurbu] started their summit bid from C3 at 10:30 pm on 24 May. Chamgoulov got to the top at 7 am and last one was Abramov who reached at 2 pm on 25 May. Summiters spent time on the summit in an average 10 minutes each. Chamgoulov and Bautin returned C3 at 10 am and continued down to ABC. Rest of the climbers and Sherpas stayed at C2. Next day they went down to ABC. The summit push started with little wind, but after 2 pm started snow fall and remained whole day on and off. Abramov said there may be 100 climbers trying for summit on that day. 

  Butler left expedition on 18 May due to business problem back home. His high point was North Col.

  Larin's high point is 8300m; he had breathing problem.

  Seleznev replaced Butler.

  Sherpas summiters:

  First group 24 May:
    Pemba Nurbu, 28/3/80, Makalu -5
    Rinje, 2/5/71, Makalu-5
    Nima Ongdi, 19/2/79, Makalu-5
    Dorchi, 26/2/1986
    Rinjen, 1/2/73, Makalu-5
    Ram Nurbu, 25/11/80, Sankhuwasabha
    Pasang Gyaljen, 30/7/81, Makalu-9

  Second group 25 May:
    Pemba Rinjin, 6/4/65, Makalu-5
    Mingma Dorchi, 30/8/80, Makalu-5
    Ang Dawa, 30/11/84, Makalu-9
    Nima Dorje, 2/10/87, Sankhuwasabha
    Phurbu Kusang, 6/12/73, Makalu-9
    Ming Temba, 2/6/92, Sankhuwasabha
    Nurbu, 16/2/91, Sankhuwasabha

  Non-Summiting Sherpas:
    Nurbu, 21/1/80, Sankhuwasabha


expid: EVER14150
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Eric Murphy
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Everest Expedition 2014
countries: Canada, Turkey, UK
bcdate: 2014-04-13
smtdate: 2014-04-18
termdate: 2014-04-22
termnote: Abandoned at 58000m due to fatal avalanche
campsites: BC(13/04),xxx(18/04,5800m)
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  Not above BC except Murphy and Horst and then only to Icefall to rescue Sherpas.

  The avalanche fatal to 16 Sherpas was caused by a serac breaking off from the lower west shoulder at 6:45 am on 18 April.

  Five Sherpas working with this team and with the associated NBC team led by Ben Jones were killed in this icefall disaster. They were Tshering Chottar Sherpa, Nima Sherpa and Ang Tshiri Sherpa with this team and Dorji Sherpa and Mingma Nuru with the NBC group.

  Murphy, Horst and Lhakpa Rita Sherpa went into the Icefall to take part in rescuing Sherpas hit by the avalanche. They rescued first those who could walk despite their broken arms, wounded the bodies of the dead. They stayed in the Icefall for two hours, 45 minutes (not nearly as long as other rescuers, who stayed until 2:00 pm).

  The Sherpas had been unhappy about the way the "Icefall Doctors" had made the route, installing only one leader in places where there should have been two, for example. They felt that the route should have received more attention, in that it had not been up to the quality of the past.

  But this was not the major factor in the refusal of the Sherpas to resume climbing after the fatal avlanche. The deaths of their collegues were what led them to stop. Some Sherpas at first were willing to resume the climb, but their eyes and body language showed their extreme reluctance, following all the deaths. Most foreigers did want to go back, and many said they intended to return to Everest as soon as they could manage. (The Nepelese government reportedly offered new permits for climbs within the next five years).

  This team's members concluded that they would not resume their climb this spring out of respect for their team's Sherpas and the other dead Sherpas. The first four members to leave flew out of BC in a helicopter on 21 April. The leader, Murphy, walked out to Lukla on the 22nd. Others were still there, using the BC for an attempt to climb nearby Lobuche East.

  Note: three AAI Sherpas were among the avalanche victims:
    Ang Tsiri Sherpa, Thami, Namche-7
    Nima Sherpa, Namche-9
    Tenzing Chhotar Sherpa, Namche-9, 24/11/1989


expid: EVER14152
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Shekhar Bachinepally
sponsor: Transcend Adventures Swaeroes Everest Expedition 2014
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2014-04-15
smtdate: 2014-05-25
smttime: 0615
termdate: 2014-05-28
agency: Arun Treks
campsites:
  BC(15/04,5300m),IC(23/04,5900m),ABC(24/04,6400m),C1(01/05,7100m),C2(23/05,7800m),C3(24/05,8300m),Smt(25/05)

routememo:
  Dhankude, Poorna, Anand Kumar, Ngima Nuru, Mingma Nuru, Gyanjo, Lhakpa, Nima Tenzing and Tshering left C3 at 9:45 pm on 24 May. 

  Poorna reached to the top at 6:15 am on 25 May, Anand Kumar at 7:43 am and Dhankude at 10:45 am. Poorna spent 1-15 minutes then went down to C3 where she arrived at 11am. Anand Kumar stayed 10 minutes on summit and returned to C3 at about 11:30 am. Dhankude spent 5 minutes on the summit then returned C3 by 5 pm. Dhankude, Tshering and Nima Tenjing spent night at C3; rest of the climbers went down to ABC.

  Bachinepally stayed at ABC. 

  Chavda went up to 7300m. She had to quit her climbing due to broken eyeglasses (she could not see clearly).

  Summit day weather at the beginning was good but around 9 o'clock it became cloudy  and windy. According to Bachinepally about 30 climbers summited on that day.

  Sherpas:
    Ngima Nuru, 6/11/1981, lives in Phurte, Namche-4
    Mingma Nuru, 30/12/75, Thami Og
    Gyamjo, 3/8/86, Lelep-9
    Lhakpa Sherpa, 28/1/86, Lelep-8
    Nima Tenjing, 1980, Jubing-7
    Tshering Sherpa, 27/3/80, Thami Og
    Ngada Sherpa, 2/2/76, Lelep-9


expid: EVER14127
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Brazil
leaders: Axel Cezar
sponsor: Project Everest 2014
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2014-04-17
smtdate: 2014-05-24
termdate: 2014-05-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to windy weather and exhaustion
campsites: BC(17/04,5150m),IC(21/04,5800m),ABC(22/04,6400m),C1(29/04,7100m),C2(23/05,7800m),xxx(24/05,7800m)
accidents: High altitude retina hemorrhage close to macula area in right eye
agency: Adventure Thamserku (Seven Summit Treks pmt)
routememo:
  On 24 May it was suppose to be Cezar's summit push and went up to 7800m, but due to high wind [and exhaustion] he and Da Wangchu decided to turn around. On his return to ABC, he realized that he had problem in his right eye.

  Cezar climbed with the Seven Summit Treks commercial group that included Gregory Attard, Matthew Xerri, Douglas Barbaro Sant, Raphael Fenech Adami (all Maltese), Olivier Ruembelli (Swiss), Satoshi Tamura (Japanese) and Richard Malblanc (French).


expid: EVER14135
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Pradeep Chandra Sahoo
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Indian Expedition 2014
bcdate: 2014-04-15
smtdate: 2014-04-18
termdate: 2014-04-27
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to Sherpa strike
campsites: BC(15/04,5350m),xxx(18/04,5800m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Roorkee Everest Spring 2014

  The members did not go through the Icefall; however, their six Sherpas wnet through the icefall on 18 April and had crossed the accident site 20 minutes before the fatal avalanche happened.

  "It was not us who decided to abandon the climb. We were not allowed to go beyond base camp afer 18th. We were threatened with dire consequences. Of course, we all were shaken, but Everest had taken many lives before and we would have continued with our climb if the situations had been normal and if we all had taken the loss on our stride."

  Rookee Members:
    Pradeep Sahoo (Leader)
    Arupam Das
    Debraj Dutta
    Aditya Gupta
    Chetna Sahoo

  The remainder of the members on this team were individual Indian clients of Seven Summit Treks.


expid: EVER14164
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Waldemar Kowalewski
sponsor: Monterosa International Everest Expedition 2014
countries: France
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri (Kowalewski); Lhasa->Gyantse->BC (Butaye)
bcdate: 2014-04-16
smtdate: 2014-05-24
smttime: 0815
termdate: 2014-05-29
accidents: Ankowski got frostbite in two fingers in both hands and left toe
agency: Monterosa Treks
campsites:
  CBC(16/04,5300m),IC(20/04,5800m),ABC(21/04,6400m),C1(06/05,7150m),C2(22/05,7700m),C3(23/05,8300m),Smt(24-25/05)

routememo:
  Waldemar Kowalewski Report:

  Kowalewski and Sonam left C3 at 01:20 hours/CST on 24 May. They got to the top at 10:30 am (8:15 NST) and spent 15 minutes there, then returned C3 at 14:30 hrs, had one hour rest, then descended to C2. There was a strong storm at C2. Next day 25 May they went down to ABC.

  Ankowski, Ang Dawa and Phursemba summited on 25 May. As told by Kowalewski, Ankowski was alone at C3 on his descent. Ankowski told Sherpas to go down and he will follow, but he came to ABC on 27 May.

  [Ang Dawa also summited on 24 May with Butaye.]

  Szewczak left expedition around 6 May. He left at C1. He was exhausted.


  Laurent Butaye Report:

  BC  17 Apr - 5200m
  ABC 21 Apr - 6400m
  C1   3 May - 7200m
  C2  22 May - 7700m
  C3  23 May - 8300m

  Butaye did acclimatize up to C1 in April, reaching it only for day trips from ABC. In begining of May, he slept first at C1 then went to C2 to fulfill his acclimatization. Then bad weather forced him to wait, the Chinese officer deciding for a summit window not before 23 May. When he saw the good weather of the 18 May, Butaye worried about the pending wait too long for him, so he went to sleep on his own at C1 for reacclimatizing (on 17 May), then went back to ABC the day after. 

  Eventually, after putting pressure with other groups on the Chinese liaison officer, the latter organized a meeting on 21 May at ABC to negociate the autorizations to go for the summit. The fixing rope team would finish it on 23 May (at the beginning the liaison officer wanted two days for the summit last part, but hired more staff to make it in one day), then summit window for climbers would be opened from 24 May until 26 May at noon (Butaye: "it’s quite a power to open a summit window"). Everyone had to chose his day and Butaye chose the first one. 

  That day he went directly at C1 for sleeping, the day after at C2, day after at C3. On 24 May, Butaye with Dawa Sherpa started at 1:30 am (Chinese time for here and after), reached the summit at 10:30 am, back to C1 at 7:30 pm. Butaye reported no wind on top, good tempetatures (-10/-15°C). The day after was back to the BC. 

  According to Butaye, the liaison officer was happy about the season, with no deaths reported and good success for most of the teams.

  [Ang Dawa also summited again from C3 on 23 May with Androwski.]

  Sherpa:
    Ang Dawa Sherpa, Tashigaon, Makalu, 7/2/78 (2034/10/25)


expid: GYAJ14101
peakid: GYAJ
year: 2014
route1: N Shoulder-W Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Lev Ioffe
sponsor: US & Russian Gyajikang Expedition
approach: Besisahar->Phu
bcdate: 2014-05-02
smtdate: 2014-05-07
termdate: 2014-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to accident of Leonid Rokhinson
campsites: BC(06/05,5500m),C1(06/05,5500m),C2(6000m),xxx(07,11/05,6100m)
accidents: Leonid Rokhinson fell into a crevasse and suffered a bad injury under the chin
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  C1 at 5500m on the N Shoulder
  C2 at 6000m on the N Shoulder.

  The team had a good acclimatization, the route looked really nice and clear, but on the 9 May, the strongest member of the team, Leonid Rokhinson, had an accident just 50m above C2 (where the team aimed to sleep that day) at 6050m: he fell in a crevasse, injuring his chin with a lot of blood but conscious. He could go on his own down to BC (Olek believes he was hit by one of his ski poles during the fall). As none of Olek or Lev had any medical experience to repair this bad deep cut (a few centimeters deep) they decided to call for an helicopter rescue which happened on 10 May. Even in Kathmandu doctors couldn't deal with an injury they had ever seen before, just kept it open. Leonid flew back to USA for further care on the 17 May. 

  Both members remaining didn't feel confident enough to go on their own, so they used a couple of days to remove the camps and tents. On 11 May the duo climbed 100m  again above C2 as Lev Ioffe wanted to see the route.

  Denisenko reports otherwise that there were 2 other teams than theirs in the surrounding, including one international team (UK, Europeans) on a higher peak nearby theirs, using 1 Sherpa for 1 client, with the Sherpas doing everything. This team told them weather was very windy (what he agrees with) and they reached the top, but Sherpas themselves said they didn't get to the top.


expid: HIML14101
peakid: HIML
year: 2014
route1: W Face
nation: UK
leaders: Jason Bailey
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Himlung Expedition 2014
countries: Australia, Finland, Poland
approach: Besisahar->Tal->Koto->Meta->Kyang->Phu
bcdate: 2014-04-28
smtdate: 2014-05-09
termdate: 2014-05-11
termnote: Abandoned at 6360m due to dangerous crevasses on the climbing route
campsites: BC(28/04,4835m),C1(01/05,5466m),C2(08/05,6000m),xxx(09/05,6360m)
agency: Makalu Adventure
routememo:
  Bailey, Gwinnell, Harvey, Quain, Lhakpa Dendi, Ngima Dorje, Lhakpa and JB Rai left C2 at 2:30 am on 9 May for summit. They reached at 6360m around 7 am. Ahead on their climbing route there were crevasses which are difficult to tackle, so they decided to go down to BC.

  Falkiewicz suffered from bad cold at BC on 30 April and left the expedition on 3 May. 

  Hibbert climbed up to 5800m between C1 and C2. He had breathing problem, left on 3 May and left Nepal on 17 May. 

  Keene went up to C2. He was not sure of climbing. 

  Kettunen went up to C1. He suffered from stomach problem, left on 7 May and left Nepal on 11 May.


expid: KANG14105
peakid: KANG
year: 2014
route1: SW Face
nation: India
leaders: Rajib Bhattarcharya
sponsor: Indian Kangchenjunga Expedition 2014
approach: Kolkata->Pashupati->Phika->Taplejung->Kombe
bcdate: 2014-04-21
smtdate: 2014-05-18
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2014-05-23
campsites: BC(21/04,5700m),C1(25/04,6300m),C2(29/04,6700m),C3(15/05,7000m),C4(17/05,7500m),Smt(18/05)
accidents: Slight frostbite on the right foot's big toe
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  There were 4 Indians climbing on Kangchenjunga this season: Rajib Bhattarcharya and Chhanda Gayen (both with Seven Summit Treks), Tusi Das and Dipankar Ghosh (both with Loben Sherpas). Chanda Gayen climbed the entire expedition with Rajib Bhattacharya.

  The duo did their acclimatization without ever sleeping at C1, this year the location not allowing all members to sleep there. So they always went to sleep at C2 instead.

  From beginning of May, teams were stuck at BC waiting for a favourable weather forecast window and the route to be opened. After two weeks of false starts, weather forecasts eventually announced a good weather window for the 16 to 18 May. Sherpas fixing the ropes would start on 13 May, and the BC members would start on 14 May.

  On 15 May Chhanda and Rajib slept at C3, and the day after as well, the forecast not being good enough.

  On 17 May both rested at C4 and started at 7:30 pm for the summit.

  On 18 May the pair reached the summit at 11 am, coming back at 8 pm to C4. Rajib had a problem on the left eye due to wind. He considers Kangchenjunga to be more difficult than Everest and Lhotse. 

  On 19 May Rajib decided to stay again at C4 in the evening, his eye ailment having increased; besides this he could see that his right big toe had frozen again. Meanwhile Chhanda started at 10:30 pm to ascend Yalung Kang with 3 Sherpas, Tashi Sherpa, Temba Sherpa and Dawa [Wangchhu] Sherpa.

  On 20 May Furtemba Sherpa, climbed up to C4 to join Rajib and accompany him down. They started at 10 am and reached BC at 5:30 pm. Rajib reports he could see all 4 climbers on Yalung Kang at 1:30 pm from C3, little up in the final couloir of Yalung Kang. Furtemba having a very huge bag left some of his luggage in C2.

  On 21 May Furtemba went up to C2 with another Sherpa to pick up the luggage he left there the previous day.

  On 23 May Rajib Bhattacharya left BC for Tseram.

  Fixed rope: 6000m for all teams

  Sherpa:
    Dawa Wangchhu Sherpa, Tamku-5, Sankhuwasabha, (2042/06/15)
    Fur Temba Sherpa, Makalu-9, Sankhuwasabha, (2038/04/09)


expid: KANG14106
peakid: KANG
year: 2014
route1: SW Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Yukio Matsuhira
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Kangchenjunga Expedition 2014
approach: Sukhetar->Yamhpudin->Ramche
bcdate: 2014-04-21
smtdate: 2014-05-18
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2014-05-20
campsites: BC(21/04,5600m),C1(25/04,6300m),C2(14/05,6400m),C3(15/05,7000m),C4(17-18/05,7400m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Acclimatization:
   
  Reached C1 for the first time on 25 April, then went back just below there 5 times for acclimatization, even in bad weather. He never used C1 for sleeping as the space was too small there.

  Then he went for further trip to sleep at C2 and C3 then back to BC (couldn't remember the dates, didn't take any notes).

  Summit push:

  On 14 May: slept at C2
  On 15-16 May: slept at C3
  On 17 May: rest at C4 then started at 6pm to climb all night
  On 18 May: reached summit at 10 am, then went back to C4 at 6pm that day 
        after 24 hours climbing ("very very long way, very tired')
  On 19 May went back to BC

  Yukio Matsuhira has shown good pictures taken from summit. Now he wants to go to K2.

  Sherpa:
    Nuri Sherpa, Goli-7, Solu, (2043/1/12)


expid: KANG14107
peakid: KANG
year: 2014
route1: SW Face
nation: Bulgaria
leaders: Boyan Petrov
sponsor: Bulgarian Kangchenjunga Spring 2014
approach: Olangphungola->Ghunsa->Pangpema->Mirgin La->Tseram->Ramche
bcdate: 2014-04-11
smtdate: 2014-05-20
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2014-05-23
campsites: BC(11/04,5600m),C1(25/04,6250m),C2(27/04,7000m),C3(12/05,7500m),Smt(20/05)
accidents: Light frostbite on right big toe
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  First summit push brought him up to 8400m on 13 May, stopped by weather conditions.

  For second summit push, started on 18 May from BC to C2. Day after slept at C3. On 20 May started at 00:30 am and reached summit at 2:30 pm, being back to C3 at 8 pm. The next day was back to BC.

  Boyan provided with excellent pictures from the summit from Yalung Kang to Kangchenjunga south.

  He lost 10 kgs after these 2 summit pushes.

  He is probably the first diabetic (type 1, 5 insulin shots a day) and for sure the first Bulgarian climber to reach Kangchenjunga summit.

  Climbed G1, G2 and attempted Broad Peak and K2 last summer. This summer 2014 he is going back on these both and will come back next year in Nepal for Manaslu.


expid: KANG14108
peakid: KANG
year: 2014
route1: SW Face
nation: India
leaders: Chhanda Gayen
sponsor: First Indian Lady's Expedition
approach: Ktm to Phiktal by bus, Taplejung->Kebang->Yamphudin->Ramche
bcdate: 2014-04-21
smtdate: 2014-05-18
smttime: 1100
othersmts: Attempted Yalung Kang (YALU-141-01) on southeast side (died on Yalung Kang normal route)
campsites: BC(21/04,5700m),C1(25/04,6300m),C2(29/04,6700m),C3(15/05,7000m),C4(17/05,7500m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  There were 4 Indians climbing on Kangchenjunga this season: Rajib Bhattarcharya and Chhanda Gayen (both with Seven Summit Treks), Tusi Das and Dipankar Ghosh (both with Loben Sherpas). Chhanda Gayen climbed the entire expedition with Rajib Bhattacharya.

  The duo did their acclimatization without ever sleeping at C1, this year the location not allowing all members to sleep there. So they always went to sleep at C2 instead.

  From beginning of May, teams were stuck at BC waiting for a favourable weather forecast window and the route to be opened. After two weeks of false starts, weather forecasts eventually announced a good weather window for the 16 to 18 May. Sherpas fixing the ropes would start on 13 May, and the BC members would start on 14 May.

  On 15 May Chhanda and Rajib slept at C3, the day after as well, the forecast not being good enough.

  On 17 May both rested at C4 and started at 7:30 pm for the summit.

  On 18 May the pair reached the summit at 11 am, coming back at 8 pm to C4. Rajib had a problem on the left eye due to wind. He considers Kangchenjunga to be more difficult than Everest and Lhotse. 

  On 19 May Rajib decided to stay again at C4 in the evening, his eye problem had increased, besides his eyes he could see that his right big toe had frozen again. Meanwhile Chhanda started at 10:30 pm to ascend Yalung Kang with 3 Sherpas, Tashi Sherpa, Temba Sherpa and Dawa [Wangchhu] Sherpa.

  On 20 May Furtemba Sherpa, climbed up to C4 to join Rajib and accompany him down. They started at 10 am and reached BC at 5:30 pm. Rajib reports he could see all 4 climbers on Yalung Kang at 1:30 pm from C3, little up in the final couloir of Yalung Kang. Fur Temba having a very huge bag left some of his luggage in C2.

  On 21 May Furtemba went up to C2 with another Sherpa to pick up the luggage he left there the previous day.

  Same day, Tashi Sherpa, the main Sherpa of Chhanda arrived at BC around 12:30 pm announcing that his 3 teammates had probably fallen to their death from Yalung Kang normal route couloir. The accident occured the previous day around 1:30 pm. After they decided to stop 200m below the summit because of much deteriorating weather (blizzard, strong winds) the Sherpas decided to come down; the accident happened at 8200m on the way down. Being exhausted, Chhanda Gayen fell on the soft snow, Pemba Sherpa who was leading then Dawa Sherpa who couldn't prevent their fall. In fact, as there were no fixed ropes on this normal route, the Sherpas chose to send Tashi Sherpa ahead and unroped to break the trail on the way up, whereas Chhanda Gayen would be roped between Temba Sherpa (up) and Dawa Sherpa (down). Thus on descent Tashi was walking 10m above the trio and could directly watch all the scene and escape the accident. The fall of the 3 unfortunate created a little avalanche in the soft snow which led them inevitably to jump into the South Face of Yalung Kang. Tashi Sherpa went 40m down just above the cliff, but couldn't see nor hear anything else than clouds and wind.

  Having spent many days in altitude and cold, Tashi didn't have any more battery left in his walkie-talkie, being impossible for him to warn BC about the accident. On the same day he went back to C4 to sleep and the day after started at 4 am down, reaching BC at 12:30 pm and announcing the bad news.

  The same day, the helicopter went at BC and tried searching on the spot, but weather did not allow. Meanwhile an Indian searching team was formed with members of the West Bengal Mountaineering Adventure Sports Foundation (Youth Service Department Gov't of West Bengal) in cooperation with the Indian embassy. These were Vijal Ray (advisor) Prasanta Mondal (Deputy Director), Debdas Nandy (governing local member) and Tusor.

  On 23 May Rajib Bhattacharya left BC for Tseram.

  On 24 May the helicopter rescue conducted by Maurizio from Fishtail could eventually fly 6 times to the spot of the accident, all flights during 3 hours clicking many pictures of the area from the 8200m beginning of the fall down to the footstep of the South Face of Yalung Kang. From 11 am the weather deteriorated, so they went back to Kathmandu, picking up Rajib from Tseram to Kathmandu.

  After analyzng the pictures, the search team saw nothing but some avalanched rocks at the footstep of the South Face (which seem only as screes remaining from natural rock fall due to erosion). They believe the bodies fell on the South Face of Yalung Kang and finished in a crevasse of the very crevassed glacier at the footstep of it, marking the busy notch between the hump and upper icefall.

  In a deteriorated weather since 1 week after the accident, the search team abandoned the idea even to see anything new as the fresh new snow covered everything.

  Fixed rope: 6000m for all teams

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Wangchhu Sherpa, Tamku-5, Sankhuwasabha (2042/6/15)
    Ngatashi Sherpa, Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha, (2037/06/18)


expid: KANG14109
peakid: KANG
year: 2014
route1: SW Face
nation: Russia
leaders: Oxana Morneva
sponsor: Russians to Kangchenjunga
approach: Olangphungola (bus)->Ramche
bcdate: 2014-04-11
smtdate: 2014-05-18
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2014-05-21
campsites: BC(11/04,5600m),C1(15/04,6100m),C2(21/04,6400m),C3(22/04,7000m),C4(17/05,7600m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Dream Himalaya Adventures
routememo:
  Started at 4:30 pm on 17 May from C4 to summit.

  On 18 May the team used a variant in the final stage of the climb, avoiding the brown chimney by the left to join the West Ridge. Oxana reached about 8500m via this variant around 11:30 am with the 3 Sherpas. At this stage, as they needed to make an exposed climb down then up again on the ridge to reach the proper summit, the Sherpas argued they didn't have enough oxygen left (in fact according to Oxana afterwards they could use it down until C2) and because unroped, they couldn't help Oxana to come down in case of accident or exhaustion (Oxana being handicapped due to a serious 300m fall on K2 which hurt her left leg; she was operated 3 times in Pakistan but her leg still not working very well).

  Coming back to take the normal route up to summit would have taken too long time (5 hours), so they came down, whereas her 2 teammates continued via the same variant and reached the summit at 12 pm. All group went back at C4 at 5 pm. There Oxana and her 3 Sherpas decided to continue down to C2 (reached at 8 pm), whereas 2 summiters remained at C4 for sleeping.

  On 19 May all the group was back to BC.

  On 21 May Oxana flew by helicopter to Tseram with the Korean team; remnant of the team left BC by foot.

  Team had serious problems during the return march, as their gear was stolen by local porters. Things deteriorated into fights and death threatenings by locals without any intervention from local police at all. 

  Oxana had difficult acclimatization time on the mountain, feeling physically better during summit push. However, she mentioned that she never experienced something so difficult; she felt the mountain to be less dangerous than K2 but steeper, with notable technical ice difficulties on the way to C1 and C3, some serac danger at C4 and a very long summit day.

  Fixed rope: shared with all teams, 6000m

  Sherpas:
    Lakpa [Jarok] Sherpa, 11/10/78 (2035/06/25), Zarok, Namche-1
    Lakpa Chhiring Sherpa, (2040/07/25) 11/11/83, Namche-3
    Chatur Kumar Tamang, Chhanga, 25/8/1973, Kanku-4, Solukhumbu

  [Data revised in May 2017 to indicate that Lhakpa and Chatur Tamang summited.]


expid: KANG14110
peakid: KANG
year: 2014
route1: SW Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Carlos Soria
sponsor: Carlos Soria BBVA Kangchenjunga 2014
approach: Helicopter from Kathmandu to BC (acclimatized 18 days in Khumbu)
bcdate: 2014-04-14
smtdate: 2014-05-18
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2014-05-22
campsites: BC(14/04,5500m),C1(22/04,6200m),C2(15/05,6950m),C3(17/05,7300m),Smt(18/05)
achievment: Oldest climber on Kangchenjunga
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Fixed rope: 6000m shared with other expedition.

  For acclimatization, slept in C1 and had to go and return to C2 without sleeping.

  On 15 and 16 May, had to wait 2 nights in C2 for wind to decrease. Then started for the summit on 17 May at 8 pm from C3, climbed all night to reach summit next day at 9 am in a clear day with no wind (temperature however estimated as -30 degrees C). Stayed there 15 minutes knowing the descent would be difficult (with no fixed rope for the last traverse from 8200m) and eventually reached C3 the same day at 6:30 pm. On 19 May reached BC at 5 pm.

  Previously on 17 May, Sherpas had fixed the rope until 8000m; they started earlier than the team on the summit day, fixing remaining rope from 8000m at the beginning of the traverse.

  Carlos Soria says: "The last 250m were very difficult to climb down, more difficult than on K2, where its more dangerous due to the bottle serac but where 50m only are difficult to down climb." However the team mentioned as well that the small blocks of the area are not so solid, so tried to hurry in the descent to avoid stone fall due to coming remnant of climbers.   

  As usual, avoided brown chimney by a few meters down; found in the chimney some remnants of old black thin ropes, in a doubtful security state, as the other beats found here and there in this final area.

  Fixed rope: 6000m shared with other expeditions

  Sherpa summiters:
    Muktu Sherpa, 21/8/1972, Makalu-5 Sankhuwasabha
    Jangbu Sherpa, 19/9/1979, Jubing-1, Solukhumbu
    Pasang Temba Sherpa, 20/1/1983, Makalu-5, Sankhuwasabha

  Sherpas who fixed ropes to 8200m:
    Pasang Tenji Sherpa, 25/2/1988, Jubing-1, Kharikhola
    Pema Nuru Sherpa, 16/2/1973, Jubing-1, Kharikhola

  Sherpas up to C3:
    Mingma Sherpa, 12/2/1982, Makalu-5, Sankhuwasabha
    Karma Sherpa, 11/5/1990, Jubing-1, Kharikhola
    Norbu Sherpa, 24/8/1973, Makalu-5, Sankhuwasabha
                                            


expid: KANG14112
peakid: KANG
year: 2014
route1: SW Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Jorge Egocheaga
sponsor: Spanish Kangchenjunga Spring 2014
approach: Olangphungola (bus)->Ramche
bcdate: 2014-04-22
smtdate: 2014-05-18
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2014-05-21
campsites: BC(22/04,5400m),C1(27/04,6100m),C2(28/04,6800m),C3(17/05,7300m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Summit push. Pair started at 10:30 pm from C3 on 17 May, reached summit on 18 May at 10 am, back to C3 at 4:30 pm. The day after both back to BC.

  "It was a perfect climb. Last day very very long, very difficult."


expid: KANG14113
peakid: KANG
year: 2014
route1: SW Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Emrik Favre
sponsor: Italian Kangchenjunga Expedition 2014
approach: Olangphungola (bus)->Yamphudin->Ramche
bcdate: 2014-04-15
smtdate: 2014-05-18
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2014-05-21
campsites: BC(15/04,5600m),C1(17/04,6100m),C2(15/05,6900m),C3(17/05,7300m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Adventure Zambuling Treks
routememo:
  BC  15 Apr - 5600m
  C1  17 Apr - 6100m
  C2  15 May - 6900m
  C3  17 May - 7300m
  C4  not used this year due to seracs fall danger
  HPt 18 May - 8400m (altimeter 8330m) by Confortola
  Smt 18 May by Camandona at 11:30 am.

  Confortola did 3 sleeps for acclimatization, 1 night in C1 and 2 nights in C2. None of the members used traditional C1 on top of the hump, being too small this year, but a further lower C1 in the core of the basin at the footsteop of the upper icefall. On summit push, all members would directly reach C2 from BC, with no stay at C1.

  Team waited 2 nights at C2 for the wind to decrease.

  Camandona started at 8 pm on 17 May, reaching summit at 11:30 am, then reached C3 at 8 pm, then C2 the same day.

  Confortola started at 7 pm on 17 May, reaching 8400m at 11 am as his high point. Here due to pain in the right chest area and frozen feet (due to former frostbites of all toes of feet) had to go down, reached C3 along with Camandona at 8 pm and stayed there for night.

  Cazzanelli and Favre started same as Confortola, stopped on 18 May at 7800m and 7700m respectively because of lack of experience (felt cold and tired). Both went down to C2 same day for sleeping. On 19 May all members were back to BC.

  Confortola mentions that he could see one of the dead bodies of Spring 2013 laying on the right side of the corridor before the traverse at around 7800m (was in fact body of Phu Dorchi found around 8150m). Otherwise that Kangchenjunga is a very long way on summit day compared to C2; starts from 7950m on K2 shoulder whereas here it starts from 7300m. He hired a Sherpa otherwise to help him at camps to manage his feet, whose toes were all cut after K2 climb.

  Team had problems otherwise with porters, some gear being stolen in the tents; otherwise with the agency, evacuation  of the photographer suffering from a lung edema being not efficiently managed by the agency, not sending the helicopter during 3 days of beautiful weather.

  Marco Confortola had bad fall at BC before starting for summit, hurting one of his right ribs; Dr Carols Martinez from Carlos Soria's team diagnosed him afterwards with a muscle tear with blood flowing from rib with pain suddenly appearing below summit.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Lama Bhote, 2/12/1984, Hatiya-1, Makalu-Barun


expid: KANG14114
peakid: KANG
year: 2014
route1: SW Face
nation: Finland
leaders: Samuli Mansikka
sponsor: Samuli Mansikka Kangchenjunga 2014
approach: By road to Ilam, Taplejung, Khewang, trek to Yamphudin->Torotong
bcdate: 2014-04-18
smtdate: 2014-05-18
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2014-05-20
campsites: BC(18/04,5500m),C1(22/04,6250m),C2(29/04,7000m),C3(30/04,7450m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  Mansikka started his summit push from C3 at 8 pm on 17 May and reached summit at 8:30 am on 18 May. He stayed on summit between 5 to 10 minutes, then back to C3 at 12:30 pm. He rested there for 2 hours, then went down to C1 where he arrived at 7 pm. Next day 19 May down to BC. Ahead of Mansikka was Kim from Korea with Sherpas. Summit was windy, but the Nepal side weather was quite good.


expid: KANG14111
peakid: KANG
year: 2014
route1: N Ridge
route2: SW Face (BC only)
nation: Russia
leaders: Denis Urubko
sponsor: Kangchenjunga International North 2014
countries: Poland, Spain
approach: Ghunsa->Pangpema
bcdate: 2014-04-20
smtdate: 2014-05-18
smttime: 0940
termdate: 2014-05-28
accidents: Chicon got left big thumb frostbitten; Sinev had hand swelling
achievment: Urubko 2nd man after J. Oiarzabal to climb Kangchenjunga from both Nepal sides without oxygen
agency: Seven Summit Treks
campsites:
  BC(20/04,5130m),C1(22/04,5700m),C1+(23/04,5700m),C2(01/05,6600m),C3(08/05,7050m),C3+(08/05,7050m),C3+(16/05,7300m),C4(17/05,7650m),Smt(19/05)

routememo:
  At first the team intended a new route on the North Face, but after a few days of observation, they could notice much serac danger on the imagined new line, with avalanches falling on it practically every day. "One year may be possible, but it wasn't this year". Then they shifted onto the classic North Ridge route.

  First wave: to C1+ (6000m)

  First wave started from BC by two teams in different days (21 and 22 April). Set C1+ for acclimatization and deposit, turned back to BC on 24 and 25th of April.

  Second wave: to C2 (6600m)

  On 29 April Adam found a harder but safer way to plan their C2, more on the left than initially planned and sheltered from serac fall danger (in fact, they didn't know it was German-Bavarian route of 1983). Denis and Alex would eventually fix it on 1 May, and the day after were back to BC in 5 hours. Meanwhile, Adam, Dmitri and Artem behind were hit by a small avalanche at C2, but the tent resisted it; a bit afraid, they decided to go back to base camp which they reached later than their friends. Would have needed 5 days of hard work in cold snowy conditions to equip the route up to that point already, 200m including a hundred vertical meters in hard ice remaining above the camp to reach North Col (this upper part being a new route/variant).

  Third wave: to 7300m

  5 May: Urubko and Braun in C1. Other 3 left the day after and joined with Urubko and Braun at C2 for dinner. Needed 6 hours to dig the camp out of the snow.

  7 May: Alex and Denis stayed at C2.

  8 May: Denis and Artem reached 7050m whereas Alex, Adam and Dmitri installed C3. All went back tired to sleep at C2 ice cave.

  9 May: in the morning, Adam and Alex fixed the last 250 of rope up to 7300m, contacting Kathmandu for 200m rope in anticipation of the bastion (route from C3 to 7300m not difficult, but preferred to secure it with rope). All slept at C3. C3 much better place than C2, the latter being very cold in NW Face shadow.

  10 May: Adam and Alex descended back to BC for rest, whereas Denis, Artem and Dmitri reached 7150m on the ropes (altitude record for Artem). Trio found a German remnants deposit that day. Not good weather. Trio slept at C3, then back to BC the day after.

  12 May: the team had a birthday celebration for Adam at BC.

  Climb more difficult than anticipated, in unfavourable ice (dry) and weather conditions.

  Summit push:

  14 May: received 400 of fresh rope, ready to go for the summit push. The group would be divided into teams: first with Adam, Alex and Dmitri; second with Denis and Artem following one day from 7500m to 7900m. Sunday 18 May teams should reach summit.

  15 May: first team reached C3 (7100m), the second C1.

  16 May: second team at C3 (7100m), Artem feeling tired after 2000m from BC in 2 days. Meanwhile first team went to sleep at C3+ at 7300m. And fixed ropes by bastion to 7400m. Dmitri stayed in C3+ for cooking dinner.

  17 May: first team spent all day working hard on the bastion. In fact Alex and Adam opened a new variant on the right side of the usual bastion couloir as they feared it may be prone to avalanche. Then they reached old fixed ropes in the upper part and eventually fixed C4 at 7600m where Alex, Adam and Dmitri slept (Denis and Artem established their tent at 7650m). Thus all slept at C4 that night, ready for summit push the day after.

  18 May: First team started with everything to bivouac in their bags, aiming to do the first traverse of the mountain. As it made them too heavy, they had to stop at 4:30 pm in the NW triangle face (8350m) and returned to C4 with difficulty after 22 hours of hard attack. Alex had contracted big right thumb frostbite (same as the one contracted on Kangchenjunga south side in 2009 with Edurne Pasaban's team). Artem helped him to reach C4 as he had difficulty to walk. Dmitri had phalanxes (hand) swelling that Alex helped him to contain that evening, and Adam was very tired with a very bad cough, Denis helping him to warm.

  Meanwhile second team waited at C4 after short try in "too dangerous slope" where Artem gave his maximum, anyway expecting to follow footsteps of the first team the day after. But the plan was cancelled after the failure of first team; day after would go down with them for care.

  19 May: During the night Denis decided anyway to have a try for the summit on his own, even in unfavourable conditions with wind planned for that day. His companions would be able to rely on themselves to care. Denis started at 5:10 am, reaching the top at 9:40 am. At the col lying directly above pinnacles, Denis went 7 to 8 meters down on southwest side to join the normal route and finished its climb through it. "My limit is usually 8500m (without oxygen), but here I felt perfectly well. Ate very few food during the expedition, was not very hungry". After he made some pictures with Russian flag, he begun his descent to reach empty C4 at 12:10 am. Then could join with Adam and Dmitri at 7050m, then Alex and Artem in C1 where all slept that night.

  20 May: entire team back to the BC, with expected wind now well established on the mountain (this wind was initially expected for 19 May by weather forecasters).

  Last attempts:

  21 May: Alex Chicon decided to cancel any new attempt on 21 May due to his right thumb frostbite; he left BC on 23 May and was heli-rescued on 24 May from Kangbachen to Kathmandu.

  25 May: Adam Bielecki intended to climb alone to the summit, but abandoned that day due to too much snow (Denis accompanied him at C1, to prevent from crevasse danger of the 9 kms way between BC and C1) He and Denis left BC 3 days after.

  On the day, Artem Braun and Dmitri Sinev had reached the south side base camp intending a try on the equipped normal route by previous teams. After 3 days of continuous snow, they had to admit defeat to resume their attempt and left BC on 28 May.

  The team had much difficulty to leave with both BCs buried in snow.

  Impressions:

  Adam Bielecki: "it was tecnically more difficult and demanding than K2."

  Denis Urubko: "I already climbed more difficult routes with new routes on Broad Peak or Cho Oyu. However for existing routes, it was the most difficult one (more difficult as well than SW Face which consists more in glacier and snow slopes), with 26 technical pitches and a very "puzzled way" for the final push during which I had to remain fully concentrated on any move. NW triangle face (40 to 50 steep slope) was hard snow with some obstacles to negotiate at best (one delicate traverse around a rock - avoided on descent, a 3m hard snow vertical wall, then a rocky wall to reach the pinnacles saddle climbed by the right on a "like warm nice rock," but with no mistake allowed all time. Touched really to have walked in the steps of Scott and Messner on this route.

  "Limited by weather and ice conditions, the 5-person team has worked like a 10 to 15 team. Alex had done the most for North Col route and the hardest pitch in the bastion, Artem gave anything he could at the selle." Denis worked ahead in difficult points sometimes also.

  They were dry conditions on Kangchenjunga upper plateau this year. This they could find at 8200m the body of Atsushi Shiina, lying in the same position his partner let him in 1998, sitting hands posed on the thighs, body not scratched.

  Fixed rope: 1400m divided in 1000m from C1 to C3 (20 pitches of 60m in the W Face of N Col) plus 400m between C3+ (7300m) and C4 (6 pitches of 60m in the bastion). All fixed ropes left on slope. One rope 50m left on the mountain at 8150m by Alex group on the descent.


expid: LHOT14103
peakid: LHOT
year: 2014
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Cleo Weidlich
sponsor: Weidlich Lhotse Expedition 2014
countries: Hungary
bcdate: 2014-04-28
smtdate: 2014-05-17
termdate: 2014-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to continuous rockfall
campsites: BC(28/04,5340m),C1(30/04),C2(02/05),C3(14/05),xxx(17/05,8000m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Cleo checked into the Hyatt Hotel in Kathmandu on 17 April, then flew to Lukla to spend a few days (20-24 April) visiting Sherpa friends in Thamo village. She knew nothing about the fatal icefall disaster of the 18th. A lama came from a village above Thamo to bless her climb, and he told her to go to the mountain.

  Cleo reached BC on 28 April with her regular Sherpa, Pema Tshering. Now they then learned about the Sherpas' deaths in the Icefall. The following day a small group of Sherpa agitators enforced a boycott of climbing into and thus above the Icefall up Everest and Lhotse. They threatened Pema with broken arms and legs and his home being burned down if he violated their boycott. On 29th he went to SPCC, whose "Icefall doctors" make the route through the Icefall, installing ladders and ropes along the route, and then Pema left, presumably after being informed that the Icefall route would no longer exist.

  On 30 April Cleo went alone through the Icefall (with ladders still in place) to C1, where she left some gear. The next day, 1 May, she returned to BC, the same day the ladders were removed. 

  A very angry Cleo posted a defiant statement on Facebook. "This is just to let you know that my climb on the Everest massif will continue with or without ladders. I have climbed some of the world's most dangerous mountains without them and this mountain is, actually, very tame compared with the likes of Nanga Parbat, Annapurna I and Kangchenjunga. I refuse to give in to the pressures of the Everest mafia. I'd like to decide for myself when I have reached my limits."

  So on the 2 May at 1:00 am, Cleo packed up and called up Fishtail Helicopters to fly her to C1. She collected her gear and the same chopper then flew her, still alone, to C2 in the Western Cwm.

  On the 3rd, she searched for a route to the bergschrund, the crevasse between the Cwm and the beginning of the Lhotse face, and on the 4th and the 5th she managed to make her way to the bergschrund past crevasses and an ice ridge making use of old ropes still in place from previous expeditions.

  Next she began to reconnoitre Lhotse's West Face. Meanwhile the American embassy became aware of the fact that one of its citizens was attempting all alone to climb Lhotse against the wishes of the Sherpa boycott organizers and asked Fishtail Helicopters about her. A few days later, Fishtail flew Pema to C2, where he joined Cleo on 12 May.

  On 14 May, Cleo and Pema established C3 on the Lhotse face with the aid of old Chinese ropes. The next day Pema fell into one of the many crevasses on the face, but he was not injured, and they continued on up.

  Although she now had a Sherpa with her, she went to ask for more help with fixing the difficult Lhotse face route at Jing Wang's camp, where the cook tent was occupied by some of Jing Wang's Sherpas. They declined to be of assistance.

  Jing Wang said that "when were at C3, I saw her camp; at that time it was already ragged from wind blowing and wearing (it) down. We were quite concerned that her tent would be blown away by the wind. The next morning she departed first; when we passed by her later on, we exchanged a few words, 'be safe, kind of thing', not a lot of communication." That was the sole encounter between the only foreigners on the mountain.

  On 17 May, Cleo and Pema were at about 8000m on the face and set about digging a platform for their tent for C4. During the digging, they found the body of a Taiwanese climber who had died the previous year. They cancelled their digging because of the constant rockfall and retreated to C3 and on the following day to C2. Now there was very strong (perhaps 90km/her) wind, which forced them to stay pinned down in C3 for four days.

  On the 22nd, they decided to try to resume climbing once again and reached C3. The rockfall, crashing down the couloir and threatening Cleo's helipad, drove them back to C2 on the 23rd. Finally they gave up in the face of such serious continous falling rock. They were not bothered by much snow on the face, which was mostly exposed rock or rock covered by ice. It was the falling rock that stopped them.

  On 23 May, Cleo concluded that they would never be able to claim the summit. With chopper flights required and no summit in sight, "it was not worth it" to continue.  On 25 May, they flew from C2 to BC to Lukla by their final helicopter flight and from there to Kathmandu.

  Sherpa:
    Pema Tshering Sherpa, 16/6/70, Mathilow, Walung, Makalu-9, Lhotse X3, Makalu X9,
      Dhaulagiri I X4, Kangch X2, Annapurna I X2


expid: LHOT14104
peakid: LHOT
year: 2014
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: John All
sponsor: Himalayan Ecstasy Lhotse Expedition Spring 2014
countries: UK
bcdate: 2014-04-15
smtdate: 2014-04-18
termdate: 2014-04-22
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to fatal avalanceh and Sherpa strike
campsites: BC(15/04,5300m),xxx(18/04,5800m)
agency: Himalayan Ecstasy Treks
routememo:
  No climbing as Khumbu icefall doctors did not fix the route due to death of 16 Sherpas by avalanche on the icefall. Gale did not leave Kathmandu.

  Hired:
    Asman Tamang, (22/1/2044) 5/5/1987, Sotang-9, Solukbumbu
     (his first time on Everest)
    Roshan Bhattarai

  Asman Tamang died in the fatal avalanche of April 18.


expid: LHOT14102
peakid: LHOT
year: 2014
route1: W Face
nation: India
leaders: Neeraj Rana
sponsor: Ocean to Sky Lhotse 2014
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2014-04-18
smtdate: 2014-04-18
termdate: 2014-04-26
termnote: Abandoned at 5350m due to Sherpa strike
campsites: BC(18/04,5350m),xxx(18/04,5350m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  The team never went through the Icefall nor were they involved in the rescue efforts. When they heard that the mountain was closed for the season, they decided to abandon the climb and go home.


expid: LOBE14101
peakid: LOBE
year: 2014
route1: E Face (new rte)
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Yuri Kilichenko
sponsor: Odessa Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Thyangboche
bcdate: 2014-04-21
smtdate: 2014-04-27
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2014-04-28
othersmts: Summited Ama Dablam (AMAD-141-03)
campsites: BC(21/04,5150m),Biv1(24-25/04,5570m),Biv2(26/04,5950m),Smt(27/04)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
primid: AMAD14103
routememo:
  At first made 6 pitches then weather turned bad and the 4 came down, waiting 3 days under the wall (snow most of time, fully on the 2 first days, 3rd day waiting for the rock to clear from the snow).

  On 24 April, first begins on the right in a 75 to 80m mixed ground hidden couloir located behind a tall block detached from the main face; first 50 degrees steep, then 70 degrees in a frozen waterfall, then eventually 50 degrees. The team used 1-1/2 to 2 hours for this part.

  Then Wall 1 begins, the line following 10m on the left of a water-polished rocky gully. In 4 pitches of 60 meters (the team always used 60m ropes) for a 240m effective climb, the team met with difficulties up to A2/A3 on 100m, 50 percent of free climb in 5b/6a and 10% of 6b.

  The team fixed further line up to the begining Wall 2 the same day in an easy 30-40 degree pitch climbed straight without protections, searching for a bivy place directly at the footstep of it without success. Then spent 2 nights at their bivy 1, recovering a bit from Wall 1. At this place they could properly install the tent they carried from BC.

  Up to that point the team noticed an earlier attempt on the same route, believing it to be 10 years old according to the gear (found 3 to 4 old bolts with carabiners on Wall 1, then one roped belay at bivy 1 put around a pinnacle, with more bolts and carabiners for abseiling on it).

  On 26 April, the team came over the difficulties of Wall 2 in 4 pitches from the main ledge (240m again), meeting with difficulties up to 6b (45 to 50% in 5b/6a, 15% in 6b - a little more than on Wall 1, 30% in 4b/5a). Having finished with Wall 2, the team had a rest time before going on and reaching its bivouac 2 on a small ledge. That evening had the traditional moral emergency sort of red caviar can to cope with hard bivouacs!

  On 27 April, the team finished with the ending ridge "really simple", max 2b/3a at the buttress, with some snow and ice otherwise - all climbed straight without protections. This ridge couldn't be seen from the footstep of the wall (1h 30 to 2h from the picture summit to the true summit!). All 4 members reached the summit at 1:30 pm in low visibility conditions, with fog and little snow. They went down by the normal route to eventually reach Lobuche village at 8:30 pm.

  On 28 April, the team came back in 2 hours to their BC to take back their equipment (sandals, ski sticks, etc) and returned to Lobuche. The day after they started for Ama Dablam (see next report).

  Route eventually named "two arrows flights" because of the impression for its creators that from the footstep of each Wall 1 and 2 they looked up and had to make a route almost completely straight up! Hard climbing on these 2 really separated parts. 


  Further comments about both wall difficulties: 

  Similar difficulties in Wall 2 than wall, but a little shorter. Maybe 2 pieces (15 to 20m in Wall 1 and 10m in Wall 2) were in 7a; difficulty presented itself like a 10m overhanging part, needing 30-minutes tries before putting a bolt. 

  They met no ice at all in Wall 1 and 2, where they could climb 30 to 40% with climbing shoes. Remnant was climbed using boots. 

  The second in rope would use jumar to join belays. 

  About the rock and protections:

  There were not so many cracks on Wall 1 (granite like) and 2 (less sure about granite, some mixed ground), were like 4 cms minimum up to 8 to 10 cms wide. The rock was almost all time compact, stable with many blocks (from half a meter to bigger size) allowing to chose quite a direct route (otherwise, "without it would have to slalom much more"), even if many of them required a lots of attention in order to not make them fall. Otherwise would need to bolt most of it (bolts "which may be put forever!"). Both wall steepness around 80° and got some lichens.

  Central part of the face between Wall 1 and 2 brings quite stable rock and belays, not as final ridge where belays were less good in unstable kind of step-shaped layers of loose rock.

  The team used camelots, anchors, pitons, leaving 5 or 6 bolts fixed for belays on the whole route. 

  About bivy places: 

  There were no possible bivy places in Wall 1 and 2. Bivy 1 was very good and sheltered, it wasn't in fact possible to find a correct one directly at the footstep of Wall 2 (by the way not a safe place with stone fall).


expid: THAM14101
peakid: THAM
year: 2014
route1: Central Spur of SW Face
nation: Russia
leaders: Alexander Gukov
sponsor: Thamserku 2014
approach: Lukla->Monjo
bcdate: 2014-04-10
smtdate: 2014-05-03
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2014-05-08
agency: 7 Summits Adventure
campsites:
  BC(10/04,4100m),C1(26/04,5450m),C2(28/04,5650m),C3(29/04,5900m),C4(30/04,6200m),C5(01/05,6500m),C6(02/05,6600m),Smt(03/05)

routememo:
  The two Russian alpinists started their summit bid from Monjo on 24 April. They spent night at 5000m at west of Kusum Kangaru. On 26 April they spent night at 5450m and on 28 April at 5650m. Subsequently, on 29th at 5900m, on 30th at 6200m, on 1 May at 6500m and on 2 May at 6600m. 

  They summited on 3 May and stayed on the summit for 40 minutes. They returned at top camp at 6600m at 7:20 am in bad weather. Visibility was so poor they find difficulty to find the way down. Then the climbers traversed from 6600m at 8 am down to South Ridge (6100m); the ridge was sharp and they had to abseil 400m vertical. They arrived (6100m) at 5 pm and slept there. Next day, 4 May the climbers started moving down at 7 am, vertical abseil to bottom of the mountain face where they reached at 8 pm. On 5 May they started moving down at 8 am to Monjo where they arrived at 6 pm. Weather condition, in general morning was good but in the afternoon most of the day snow fall, cloudy and windy. Summit day weather was good. Gukov and Lonchinskiy used a light tent bag without poles. It could be used as a bag.


expid: TLNG14101
peakid: TLNG
year: 2014
route1: NW Face-NW Pillar
nation: Italy
leaders: Mario Panzeri
sponsor: Italian Talung Northwest Pillar Expedition 2014
approach: Biratnagar->Bhadrapur->Taplejung->Yamphudin->Ramche
bcdate: 2014-04-20
smtdate: 2014-05-17
termdate: 2014-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to difficulty of the route, lack of time
campsites: BC(20/04,5000m),C1(16/05,6000m),xxx(17/05,6400m)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  High point on 17 May at 6400m on NNW Pillar by Bernasconi and Corona.

  At first, the team lost time waiting for the porters and loads first 10 days in Ramche, then 5 days in mid-camp (halfway between Ramche and their BC located 600m below Kangchenunga BC - which is more difficult to reach).

  Eventually, from 16 May when they could reach BC with porters, the trio began their climb, doing day trips to fix rope higher and higher (did so 11 to 12 times) on the mountain. Their precise itiniery followed the same route as the Czechs on the North Face at the beginning (attack at 5600m) in 60-degree steep snow. Then from 6000m and the only comfortable bivouac place, on top of the serac (same used by the Czechs as Bivouac 1 in 2013), they continued up to the right by steep ice pitches (80 degrees in old ice hard as rock, difficult to put ice screws - some beats 90 degrees) to reach at 6300m the proper NNW Pillar at the rock band, this latter sizing 400m high.

  In their ultimate attempt, on 16 May Bernasconi and Corona could begin to fix few pitches to the rock band, finding no bivouac places up there coming back to sleep at Bivouac 1. On 17 May they tried again to force the rock band up to 6400m, then had to stop because of the difficulty to put in protection (impossible to put friends or rock pitons). Corona reports that on before their last pitch he had to climb 40m roped without protection in boots. Overall grade difficulty for the climbed part of the rock band.

  The trio thinks they underestimated the steepness of the face. They climbed and fixed in total 31 pitches on the route.

    BERNASCONI, Daniele (high point 6400m)
    CORONA,Giampaolo (high point 6400m)
    PANZERI, Mario (Leader) (high point 6200m)


expid: AMAD14104
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Pavel Ivanovsky
sponsor: Osho World Adventure Ama Dablam Ural Expedition 2014
approach: Lukla->Namche->Tengboche
bcdate: 2014-04-23
smtdate: 2014-04-28
termdate: 2014-05-05
termnote: Abandoned due to deaths of two members from AMS
campsites: BC(23/04,3980m),C1(26/04,5800m),C2(27/04,6000m),C3(28/04,6400m),xxx
accidents: Two members died from AMS
agency: Osho World Adventure
routememo:
  From Ministry file:

  Death of Igolkin on 28 April and Ivanovsky on 29 April at about 6000m between C2 and C3. Death certificates issued in Kathmandu state that the reason of death was due to pulmonary edema and cardiac arrest for both climbers. Bodies were brought to Kathmandu by Simrik Helicopter on 30 April.

  Details of climb: Climbing details not available as members did not want to talk.


  From Jost Kobusch report:

  About the Russian accident (Osho Treks):

  Were 9 people on the mountain, even 10 on the permit. Jost Kobusch met 1 member in Dingboche who was feeling not well and didn't climb.

  Russians high point at around C3 (about 6400m).

  On 30 April, Jost Kobusch was going alone from C1 to C2, then met some of the Russian people at the top of the Yellow Tower. At 6:30 am, was an helicopter rescue around 6300m (lower than mushroom ridge, some of them in Grey Tower). 2 people had died from HAPE. Russians decided to go down to their C1 that day (Russian C1 a bit higher than Jost Kobusch C1) at 5700m. All look very exhausted.

  The Russian told they had 4 nights above 6000m (at C2 for sure and maybe C3). Jost Kobusch believes them to be too slow using very heavy style, 2 people having already altitude effect problems in Thyangboche.

  On 29 April usual afternoon snowfalls (5 cms of new powder snow) didn't allow helicopter to fly.

  Jost Kobusch hypothesis: Russian group climbed during the night of the 28th to 29 April from C2 to C3 around Grey Towers, went into bad situation due to altitude sickness on the 29 April, then on the 30 April two dead bodies and others could be picked up from the mountain. He is not sure whether they were going up or down when accident happened, maybe blocked or in between camps.


expid: KANG14102
peakid: KANG
year: 2014
route1: SW Face
nation: India
leaders: Tusi Das
sponsor: Reach Altitude Kangchenjunga 2014
approach: Taplejung->Khewang->Yamphudin->Torendem->Tseram->Ramche
bcdate: 2014-04-20
smtdate: 2014-05-18
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2014-05-21
campsites: BC(20/04,5500m),C1(25/04,6175m),C2(26/04,6285m),C3(15/05,6900m),C4(17/05,7400m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  Left BC for summit push on 14 May.

  Start time for summit was 6:40 pm on 17 May, reached summit at 10 am on 18 May, stayed there about 1 hour, returned back to C4 by 9 pm.

  From 300m below summit to summit there was no fixed rope. Above C4 there were two dead bodies (saw 2 bodies above C4 approx 7600m-7700m). One body wearing green cloth probably, can't remember it). Weather was good sky was clear.

  Sherpa:
    Phurba


expid: YALU14101
peakid: YALU
year: 2014
route1: SW Face of KANG-SE Face of YALU
nation: India
leaders: Chhanda Gayen
sponsor: First Indian Lady's Expedition
approach: Ktm to Phiktal by bus, Taplejung->Kebang->Yamphudin->Ramche
bcdate: 2014-04-21
smtdate: 2014-05-20
smttime: 1100
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to bad weather (and subsequent fatal fall)
othersmts: Climbed Kangchenjunga (KANG-141-08)
accidents: Fatal fall of Chhanda Gayen and 2 Sherpas
agency: Seven Summit Treks
primid: KANG14108
campsites:
  BC(21/04,5700m),C1(25/04,6300m),C2(29/04,6700m),C3(15/05,7000m),C4(17/05,7500m),Kang.Smt(18/05),C4(19/05,7500m),xxx(20/05,8300m)

routememo:
  There were 4 Indians climbing on Kangchenjunga this season: Rajib Bhattarcharya and Chhanda Gayen (both with Seven Summit Treks), Tusi Das and Dipankar Ghosh (both with Loben Sherpas). Chhanda Gayen climbed the entire expedition with Rajib Bhattacharya.

  The duo did their acclimatization without ever sleeping at C1, this year the location not allowing all members to sleep there. So they always went to sleep at C2 instead.

  From beginning of May, teams were stuck at BC waiting for a favourable weather forecast window and the route to be opened. After two weeks of false starts, weather forecasts eventually announced a good weather window for the 16 to 18 May. Sherpas fixing the ropes would start on 13 May, and the BC members would start on 14 May.

  On 15 May Chhanda and Rajib slept at C3, the day after as well, the forecast not being good enough.

  On 17 May both rested at C4 and started at 7:30 pm for the summit.

  On 18 May the pair reached the summit at 11 am, coming back at 8 pm to C4. Rajib had a problem on the left eye due to wind. He considers Kangchenjunga to be more difficult than Everest and Lhotse. 

  On 19 May Rajib decided to stay again at C4 in the evening, his eye problem had increased, besides his eyes he could see that his right big toe had frozen again. Meanwhile Chhanda started at 10:30 pm to ascend Yalung Kang with 3 Sherpas, Tashi Sherpa, Temba Sherpa and Dawa [Wangchhu] Sherpa.

  On 20 May Furtemba Sherpa, climbed up to C4 to join Rajib and accompany him down. They started at 10 am and reached BC at 5:30 pm. Rajib reports he could see all 4 climbers on Yalung Kang at 1:30 pm from C3, little up in the final couloir of Yalung Kang. Fur Temba having a very huge bag left some of his luggage in C2.

  On 21 May Furtemba went up to C2 with another Sherpa to pick up the luggage he left there the previous day.

  Same day, Tashi Sherpa, the main Sherpa of Chhanda arrived at BC around 12:30 pm announcing that his 3 teammates had probably fallen to their death from Yalung Kang normal route couloir. The accident occured the previous day around 1:30 pm. After they decided to stop 200m below the summit because of much deteriorating weather (blizzard, strong winds) the Sherpas decided to come down; the accident happened at 8200m on the way down. Being exhausted, Chhanda Gayen fell on the soft snow, Temba Sherpa who was leading then Dawa Sherpa who couldn't prevent their fall. In fact, as there were no fixed ropes on this normal route, the Sherpas chose to send Tashi Sherpa ahead and unroped to break the trail on the way up, whereas Chhanda Gayen would be roped between Temba Sherpa (up) and Dawa Sherpa (down). Thus on descent Tashi was walking 10m above the trio and could directly watch all the scene and escape the accident. The fall of the 3 unfortunate created a little avalanche in the soft snow which led them inevitably to jump into the South Face of Yalung Kang. Tashi Sherpa went 40m down just above the cliff, but couldn't see nor hear anything else than clouds and wind.

  Having spent many days in altitude and cold, Tashi didn't have any more battery left in his walkie-talkie, being impossible for him to warn BC about the accident. On the same day he went back to C4 to sleep and the day after started at 4 am down, reaching BC at 12:30 pm and announcing the bad news.

  The same day, the helicopter went at BC and tried searching on the spot, but weather did not allow. Meanwhile an Indian searching team was formed with members of the West Bengal Mountaineering Adventure Sports Foundation (Youth Service Department Gov't of West Bengal) in cooperation with the Indian embassy. These were Vijal Ray (advisor) Prasanta Mondal (Deputy Director), Debdas Nandy (governing local member) and Tusor.

  On 23 May Rajib Bhattacharya left BC for Tseram.

  On 24 May the helicopter rescue conducted by Maurizio from Fishtail could eventually fly 6 times to the spot of the accident, all flights during 3 hours clicking many pictures of the area from the 8200m beginning of the fall down to the footstep of the South Face of Yalung Kang. From 11 am the weather deteriorated, so they went back to Kathmandu, picking up Rajib from Tseram to Kathmandu.

  After analyzng the pictures, the search team saw nothing but some avalanched rocks at the footstep of the South Face (which seem only as screes remaining from natural rock fall due to erosion). They believe the bodies fell on the South Face of Yalung Kang and finished in a crevasse of the very crevassed glacier at the footstep of it, marking the busy notch between the hump and upper icefall.

  In a deteriorated weather since 1 week after the accident, the search team abandoned the idea even to see anything new as the fresh new snow covered everything.


expid: LHOT14105
peakid: LHOT
year: 2014
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Eric Murphy
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Lhotse Expedition 2014
countries: UK
bcdate: 2014-04-13
smtdate: 2014-04-14
termdate: 2014-04-22
termnote: Abandoned at 58000m due to Sherpa strike
campsites: BC(13/04,5350m),xxx(13/04,5350m)
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  The two Lhotse climbers never went through the icefall nor were they involved in the rescue efforts.


expid: CHOY14106
peakid: CHOY
year: 2014
route1: NW side
nation: Argentina
leaders: Mariano Galvan
sponsor: Makalu Adventure Cho Oyu Expedition 2014
countries: Romania, Russia, Spain
bcdate: 2014-04-17
smtdate: 2014-05-18
campsites: BC(17/04),ABC(19/04,5700m),C1(22/04,6400m),C2,C3(17/05,7400m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Makalu Adventure
routememo:
  From Radu Stancescu blog:

  Joan and Radu with have full Sherpa support across the 3 high altitude camps, while the other three (Mariano/Igor/Irina) opted for a more budget oriented option with no Sherpa support on the camps. I am not sure whether they will be using oxygen on the summit day. Radu will climb with Ongchhu Sherpa (39 years old) and Joan with either Ngima or Ang Kami Sherpa. Ngima and Ongchhu are younger, Ang Kami will be celebrating his 60th birthday this year (same birthday as Radu), so I am not sure whether all three Sherpas are going for the summit or one will wait at Camp 3 for support.

  Regarding oxxygen, Radu mentioned that he and his Sherpa will be using 3 + 2 oxygen bottles.

  April 23

  I spoke this morning with Radu ( Wed, 7 pm Tibet local time) and he seems convinced that a summit bid is very unlikely in the current conditions. There are no fixed ropes up the mountain, the has been a lot of recent snow and the morale given the recent accident on Khumbu has put a dent in everyone’s confidence. This decision has been supported by the Sherpas who are less inclined to continue the climb. He mentioned they went to Camp 1 (6400m), but did not overnight there. Joan, Radu and the 2 Sherpas are coming back to Nepal, while the 3 semi-independent climbers (Mariano, Igor, Irina) decided to stay + the cook/Sherpa.

  May 2

  The main reason that pushed me to return home earlier was the medical condition. My acclimatization wasn’t that great, maybe starting from sea level, maybe the extreme cold/wind, etc.

  One day we climbed up a bit at 6200m (20500ft) and I didn’t take it very well. The next day I talked with one of our Sherpa and let him know that I might go down from here.

  Here you have other considerations that played a big role in my decision:

  - Just a couple of days before taking the above decision something happened a few miles from us in the Everest area, the biggest tragedy ever where 17 Sherpa were killed by an avalanche. After this event almost all the Sherpa from Everest took the decision not to climb anything this season. The same opinion was immediately shared by our Sherpa’s, saw it in their behavior. If you don’t have the support of these great people then everything is lost, in the end, they save your life if you’re ready to push your luck beyond the limits.

  - This season were registered only 6 to 8 teams to climb Cho Oyu the lowest record in the history, normally there are at least 15/20 expeditions here.

  - Our mountain was virgin this season; nobody ever touched the Camp 1 at 6400m due to extremely strong winds; that was up to the point I was there, I’m pretty sure there are teams advancing as we speak.

  - Normally there are several Chinese teams that setup and fix ropes in the mountain and of course charge the other people; this year was different, none of these was done. Another expedition (much bigger than us) ordered over 8 miles of ropes in Kathmandu to place them in the dangerous/exposed places. Delivery would take more than five days plus at least 1 week of good weather to mount them. Also cleaning the old ropes might take a couple of days too. I just didn’t like the idea to wait two more weeks at this altitude and then going up on un-tested fixed lines.

  - Missing snow at high altitude caused rocks to be exposed so difficulty of the climb went up to the roof; see the picture to compare; that’s what caused in Everest the big avalanche. The picture with the snow (first) represents the normal conditions; the other one was taken by me from ABC.

  - Weather was pretty bad, very strong winds, cold, temperature outside with the wind factor almost reaching minus 40C/F, inside the tent minus 15

  - My equipment was not pretty good; I just didn’t want to spend several other thousand buying new things for something that I might not repeat it in the future.

  We were five in our group, Mariano by far the most experienced one, climbed Everest and other 8000m’s in the past with no oxygen, guide in Aconcagua; also Irina and Igor, Russians, both with 8000m experience and Juan, Spain 68 years old, already climbed Everest a couple of times and other higher mountains. I was the only one with no experience at this altitude. Mariano is actually one of the 170 people who scaled Everest without oxygen; however there are a few thousands so far that did it with O2.

  May 13

  Coming back to my Spanish friend, so far he climbed the seven summits (the highest mountain on each of the seven continents) and Everest (two times). He was well prepared and very motivated to summit Cho Oyu.

  He told me that his decision was not based on health issues; he was much better acclimatized than me. He didn’t like the idea that only a few teams are in the mountains and specially the missing fixed lines (ropes). He also mentioned that climbing Everest twice was safer than the conditions we were encountering in Cho Oyu. It’s very important to climb together with other teams, you feel that you are not alone, if something unexpected happens, at least you know that other people could help (which is not necessary true as Everest proved many times…)


expid: EVER14144
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Greg Vernovage
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Everest Expedition 2014
countries: Australia, Brazil, Canada, Germany, Italy, Mexico, Morocco, New Zealand, Norway, UK
smtdate: 2014-04-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to Sherpa strike
campsites: BC(5350m),C1(17/04,6100m),C2(19/04,6400m),xxx
agency: Beyul Adventure
routememo:
  Before attempting to climb Everest, the team went to Lobuche East and all members reached the summit on various dates between 10 and 17 April. But one of these members, Ms. Ghizlane Aakar, injured her leg during her descent, and she therefore was unable to go to Everest.

  On 17 April, six members moved up from BC to C1 in their routine rotation up and back in the acclimatization phase. They were Battelli, Bunce, Clement, Fredinburg, Merle, Nagl and Saikaly.

  Then the massive avalanche came off Everest's West Shoulder and struck 16 Sherpas in the Icefall on the 18th at 6:45 am, killing 16 men. The only damage done to any Sherpa with this team were contusions on the leg of Kami (Ang Kami) Sherpa from Kerung, Solu.

  These members and a party 16 of Sherpas moved up to C2 on the 19th as per their rotation program: "We believed we were still climbing Everest," Vernovage explained. They stayed there for two nights and then descended to BC on the 21st.

  Meanwhile a meeting of all team leaders was scheduled for the 18th at 10:00 am at BC to discuss a plan for fixing ropes up to the summit. But because of the disastrous avalanche early that morning, the meeting was cancelled and never took place.

  The expedition's climb of Everest was abandoned by a decision by Vernovage announced at a meeting of the team's members on 23 April. He had told his Sherpas to go home to their families (they lived in villages not far from BC) to discuss their resuming the attempt on Everest, and, according to him, 95% of these Sherpas were ready to return to the climb. But in the meantime he had been hearing about the possibility of injury to anyone who went back, and he did not want his people to be in harm's way. So he had decided to cancel the climb.

  Members began leaving BC on the 24th and 25th. Sherpas and team leaders on this expedition cleared all 400 kg of gear they had at C1 and consolidated it with gear at C2 (considered a safer storage site) belonging to the IMG expedition along with gear from Himalayan Experience (Russell Brice), Jagged Globe, Alpine Ascents, the Benegas Brothers, Rainier Mountaineering Institute, Peak Freaks (Tim Rippel) and Adventure Consultants. Their hope is to return and use the gear next spring.


expid: EVER14138
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Francesco Rovetta
sponsor: Snowy-Satori Everest Expedition Spring 2014
countries: Chile, Finland, India, New Zealand, USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Tengboche->Dingboche->Lobuche
bcdate: 2014-04-12
termdate: 2014-04-27
termnote: Abandoned at 5350m due to Sherpa strike
othersmts: Summited Island Peak on 16 April (Moya)
campsites: BC(5350m)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  On the morning of 18 April an avalanche in the icefall killed 16 Sherpas. This accident resulted in a halt of further climbing activities because majority of Sherpas did not want to climb.


expid: EVER14143
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Cha Jin-Chol
sponsor: 2014 Kyungil University Alpine Club Everest Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Debuche->Pheriche->Lobuche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2014-04-17
smtdate: 2014-04-17
termdate: 2014-04-28
termnote: Abandoned at 5350m due to Sherpa strike
othersmts: Summited Island Peak on 25 April (both members and 3 Sherpas)
campsites: BC(5350m)
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal
routememo:
  On the morning of 18 April an avalanche in the icefall killed 16 Sherpas. Due to this accident most of Sherpas did not want to continue climbing.


expid: KAG114101
peakid: KAG1
year: 2014
nation: USA
leaders: Peter Ackroyd
sponsor: Cowboys in Kagmara Expedition 2014
countries: UK
termnote: Abandoned due to illness, bad weather and mule problems
agency: Jai Himal Trekking?
routememo:
  Peter Ackroyd - 15 Feb 2014

  After 20 years of going to Nepal there was bound to be one disappointment.

  Dolpa is a wonderful area with many unclimbed peaks, no roads, few villages, fewer people and tourists, making it one of my favorite places in Nepal. This was the case in 1998 and would have still been the case, but for the recent interest in Yarsagumba (Cordyseps Sinensis), a caterpillar fungus.

  Unbeknownst to Sam, Richard and me, thousands of Nepalis, mostly women, children and hundreds of mules now flock to elevations above 4000m to pick this caterpillar fungus for a few weeks in the spring. Pickers can make up to $8000 per lb of this plant, a fortune in a poor country. It sells for $40,000 per lb in Shanghai. The reason? It is believed to be an aphrodisiac by the Chinese.

  Because of this there were no porters available, even though they had been promised to us, only mules and they cannot travel through the higher snowy passes. This forced us to turn back after a week of hiking to find a different route. Then we got a bug from contaminated river water, even after all our precautions. The rivers were particularly dirty in this area. Despite antibiotics I was not recovering and after another 8 days had to head out on my own, glad to be in Kathmandu four days later. The saga continued for Sam and Richard with a dead mule, a drunken muleteer, heavy snow and another turn around. They reached Kathmandu a week after me. We did not get a chance to attempt the peak, Kagmara.

  The degradation to the environment from the picking of this fungus is severe and the crowded trails are no fun. During the picking season there were at least 13 deaths from hypothermia and 2 murders this year. Of course, we enjoyed the companionship and scenery. I love Nepal and it's people but, like many places, change can make it hard to return."


expid: PUMO14102
peakid: PUMO
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Sebestiano Valentini
sponsor: Valentini Pumori Expedition 2014
bcdate: 2014-04-23
smtdate: 2014-04-29
termdate: 2014-05-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to bad conditions, bad weather
campsites: BC(23/04,5500m),xxx(29/04,6400m)
agency: Four Brothers Adventure Travel
routememo:
  Team left BC on 29 April at about 1:20 am and climbed up to 6400m. The weather was very bad, snow conditions were precarious and there was a lot of rockfall and hanging seracs. They decided to turn back to BC.


expid: PUTH14101
peakid: PUTH
year: 2014
route1: NE Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Matthias Mueller
sponsor: Nature Freunde Bersgteiger Gruppe Linz Expedition
approach: Ktm, Nepalganj, Juphal by flight, then trekked to BC
bcdate: 2014-05-06
smtdate: 2014-05-18
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2014-05-21
campsites: BC(06/05,4900m),C1(11/05,5400m),C2(12/05,6200m),C3(17/05,6600m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Was the only team on the mountain. The glacier was in very good conditions, with a very few parts in ice (C2 area had some crevasses covered with snow), remnant was in good (not too much!) snow. Summit day not very cold (-15°C) even a bit windy. Best conditions!

  On 18 May, the entire team started at 7 am from the last camp, Matthias and Roman reaching summit at 12:30 then C3 for sleeping at 3 pm, Frank and Reinhard reaching summit at 4 pm, then C3 for sleeping at 7 pm. Next day the team was back to BC.


expid: CHOY13325
peakid: CHOY
year: 2013
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Stefan Gerhard
sponsor: Snowy Horizon Cho Oyu Expedition
countries: Japan
smtdate: 2013-09-29
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2013-10-01
campsites: ABC(5700m),C1(6400m),C2(7200m),C3(28/09,7600m),Smt(29/09)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  Sven Sjoeberg - 2 Oct 14 (email)

  Summit attempt:
  C1  Sept 26 
  C2  Sept 27 
  C3  7600m Sept 28 
      Summit Sept 29, 9:30 Nepali time. 
  ABC Sept 30 
  Left ABC Oct 1

  Stefan came later to ABC. I did not know that Stefan was coming, he joined the Himalayan Ecstasy. With Stefan came a Japanese, Taro Yamagata. He climbed with a guide from Snowy Horizon, they "borrowed" only our ABC. Me and Stefan climbed together from Sept 26.


expid: CHOY14301
peakid: CHOY
year: 2014
route1: NW side
nation: Australia
leaders: Benjamin Kane
sponsor: Asian Trekking Cho Oyu Expedition 2014
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2014-09-08
smtdate: 2014-09-30
termdate: 2014-10-01
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to cold and worry about frostbite
campsites: BC(08/09,4900m),ABC(12/09,5700m),C1(18/09,6400m),C2(29/09,7100m),xxx(30/09,7000m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  08/09  4900m
  ABC 12/09  5700m
  C1  18/09  6400m	
  C2  29/09  7100m	
  HPt 30/09  at 7600m by Kane at 3 am (NST).

  Kane left C2 at 11 pm (NST) on 29 Sept. Weather was calm and not too cold. At about 2:30 am the wind picked up and it got a lot colder. As he was worried about his feet, he decided to turn back. He descended to C2, where he arrived at 5 am, and stayed there for 2 hours. He then continued to ABC, where he arrived at 4 pm.


expid: HIML14301
peakid: HIML
year: 2014
route1: W Ridge from SW
nation: Germany
leaders: Andreas Bucher
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Himlung Expedition 2014
countries: Austria, Switzerland
bcdate: 2014-09-14
smtdate: 2014-09-24
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2014-09-27
campsites: BC(14/09,4840m),C1(18/09,5400m),C2(23/09,6100m),Smt(24/09)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  BC  14/09  4840m
  C1  18/09  5400m
  C2  23/09  6100m
  Smt 24/09  by Bucher, Herndl Georg, Herndl Nicola, Tanner, Lila Bahadur, 
             Mingmar at 8 am.

  Summit team and Stieb left C2 at midnight. Weather was good, not cold, snow conditions good. Stieb got cold hands at about 6200m and turned back to C2, where Goettlicher and Lehnicke were staying.

  Summit team spent about 15 minutes on the top and descended to BC, where they arrived at 7 pm. Goettlicher, Lehnicke and Stieb descended from C2 to BC in the morning of 24 Sept.

  Goettlicher and Lehnicke reached C2 on 23 Sept. They were not strong enough to carry on.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

  Sherpas: 
    Lila Bahadur Tamang, Khaimrang, Sardikhola, Kaski, 15/10/1966
    Mingmar, Taksindu-6, 20/08/1974


expid: MANA14301
peakid: MANA
year: 2014
route1: NE Face
nation: China
leaders: Ma Li-Yamu
sponsor: Chinese Women's Expedition Manaslu 2014
approach: Samagaon
bcdate: 2014-09-09
smtdate: 2014-09-26
smttime: 1349
termdate: 2014-09-30
campsites: BC(09/09,4700m),C1(15/09,5400m),C2(17/09,6300m),C4(24/09,7400m),Smt(26/09)
agency: Dreamers Destination Treks
routememo:
  BC  09/09  4700m
  C1  15/09  5400m
  C2  17/09  6300m
  C3   ---
  C4  24/09  7400m
  Smt 26/09  by Liang & Nima Gyalzen at 2:58 pm, Ma & Kaji Sherpa at 1:49 pm.

  Summit team, Han and Mingma Gyalje left C4 at 7 am on 26 Sept. The reason they left so late was that it was very windy (about 50 km/h). Yoshimasa Sasaki from Japan, who was with the same trekking agency, but not in the same team, stayed at C4 as he was not feeling well. When they were on the way up, Hans's Sherpa, Mingma Gyalzen, received a radio call that Sasaki fell down near C4 on his way down and that help was needed. Han and Mingma Gyalzen descended to C4 where they arrived at 6 pm. However, it was too late and Sasaki had already died. Han and Minmga Gyalzen spent the night at C4.

  Ma and Kaji spent about 4 minutes on the summit. Kaji wanted to get back down quickly to help Sasaki. Liang and Nima Gyalzen spent about 20 minutes on the summit. The summit team reached C4 at about 6:10 pm and spent the night there. On 27 Sept everyone descended to BC.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to summit to C4 by Ma
    Taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 by Liang
    Taken and used from C3 to high pt by Han

  Sherpas:
    Nima Gyalzen, Beding, Dolakha, 9/8/85
    Kaji (Pasang Kaji, Pasang Kami), Loding (Tamakhani), Solu, 1963
    Mingma Gyalje, 14/4/86, Beding, Dolakha


expid: MANA14302
peakid: MANA
year: 2014
route1: NE Face
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Arnold Coster
sponsor: Arnold Coster Expeditions Manaslu 2014
countries: Australia, Canada, UK
bcdate: 2014-09-10
smtdate: 2014-09-27
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2014-09-29
campsites: BC(10/09,4850m),C1(15/09,5800m),C3(25/09,6800m),Smt(27/09)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  10/09  4850m
  C1  15/09  5800m
  C2   --	    --
  C3  25/09  6800m
  Smt 27/09  by Maybank and Lhakpa at 9:30 am; McDonald and Karma Sherpa at 9 am.

  Summit team and Coster and Bailey left C3 at 8 pm on 26 Sept. They had stayed two nights at C3 as the weather was not good enough to go for the summit on 26 Sept. Perfect conditions and straightforward climb.

  Summit team spent about 30 minutes on top: McDonald descended to BC where she arrived at 8 am. Maubank descended to C3, where he arrived at about 1 pm.

  Bailey reached about 7000m on [night of] 26 Sept. He was feeling nauseas and turned back to BC. 

  Coster reached C4 at 7400m. As the team was making very slow progress, he knew that his oxygen was needed, so he gave it to the team and turned back. He descended to BC.

  On 28 Sept everyone was back at BC.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Maybank and McDonald
    Taken and used from C3 to high point by Coster
    Taken and used from C3 to 7000m to C3 by Bailey
    Taken and used from C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas


expid: MANA14303
peakid: MANA
year: 2014
route1: NE Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Hong-Bin
sponsor: Korea Manaslu Expedition 2014
bcdate: 2014-09-10
smtdate: 2014-09-25
smttime: 1039
termdate: 2014-09-27
campsites: BC(10/09,4900m),C1(14/09,5800m),C2(17/09,6200m),C4(24/09,7400m),Smt(25/09)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  10/09  4900m
  C1  14/09  5800m
  C2  17/09  6200m
  C3   --
  C4  24/09  7400m
  Smt 25/09  by Kim, Ra, Nuri and 2 other Sherpas [Pemba Thinduk and Renje Lhakpa]
             at 10:39 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 4 am. Weather good, but windy. Straightforward climb. They spent about 10 minutes on summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at 5 pm.

  Han reached C1 on 14 Sept; he had a pain in his foot and left BC on 17 Sept.

  Seo reached C2 on 17 Sept; he was too tired to carry on and stayed at BC for the rest of the expedition.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C2 to top to C4 by members
    From C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas


expid: MANA14304
peakid: MANA
year: 2014
route1: NE Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Markus Brand
sponsor: Amical Alpin Manaslu Expedition 2014
countries: Austria, Switzerland
approach: Samagaon trekking
bcdate: 2014-09-10
smtdate: 2014-09-30
smttime: 0615
termdate: 2014-10-03
campsites: BC(10/09,4850m),C1(14/09,5800m),C2(23/09,6507m),C3(28/09,6850m),C4(29/09,7450m),Smt(30/09)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  10/09  4850m
  C1  14/09  5800m
  C2  23/09  6507m
  C3  28/09  6850m
  C4  29/09  7450m
  Smt 30/09  by Sieveking, Lhakpa at 6:15 am, Bauer and Pema Nuru at 8:15 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 1:15 am. Light snowfall, no wind. Straightforward climb. Sieveking and Lhakpa stayed for about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at 1:30 pm. They stayed the night at C2 and descended to BC the following day. Bauer and Pema Nuru stayed about 10 minutes on summit and descended to C3, where they arrived at 3:30 pm.

  Manuela Brand reached 6950m on 29 Sept. She turned back after one hour as she was feeling dizzy. She went back to BC, where she arrived at 2 pm.

  Markus Brand reached C1 on 22 Sept. He had been suffering from the flu for most of the expedition and stayed at BC and managed his team from there.

  Harold Bauer reached 6200m on 23 Sept. He had not been feeling well for most of the expedition. He was suffering from fatigue. He left BC on 30 Sept to trek back via Larkya La.

  Ruppen reached C2 on 23 Sept. He had cold feet and felt weak and decided to abandon expedition. He left BC with Bauer on 30 Sept to trek back via Larkya La.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from 7450m to top to C3 by Sieveking
    Taken and used from top to C4 by Lhakpa

  Sherpas:
    Pema Nuru, Paiya, Jubing, 27/01/75
    Lhakpa [Nuru] 


expid: CHOY11118
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Jan Midde
sponsor: HT Wandelreizen Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 2011-04-30
smtdate: 2011-05-21
termdate: 2011-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 7830m due to lateness of the day and deteriorating weather
accidents: Ronald Naar died of altitude sickness
agency: Kailash Himalayan Treks?
campsites:
  CBC(30/04,4900m),IC(02/05,5375m),ABC(03/05,5700m),C.5(06/05,6000m),C1(07/05,6400m),C2(19/05,7100m),C3(20/05,7500m),xxx(21/05,7830m)

routememo:
  The summit team of Martine Bakker, Ronald Naar, Mark Van den Berg along with Kaji,  Nuru Jangbu and Pasang departed C3 (7500m) on 21 May. Naar, Van den Berg and Kaji reached 7830m with Martine and Nuru Jangbu slightly back at 7800m. At 4:30 pm after 8 hours of climbing, they decided to turn back due to the lateness of the day; the weather also was deteriorating.

  The next day 22 May the team descended down. Since Naar did not feel well, he and Kaji started down immediately ahead of the other members towards C1. But at around 6800m Naar collapsed and died of apparent altitude sickness. 

  Bert De Jong, Klaas Klein, Remco Loewensteyn, Annette Meesters and Ben Verbree left the expedition early due to various illnesses and/or fatique. 

  The leader Jan Midde managed the expedition from ABC.


expid: MANA14305
peakid: MANA
year: 2014
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Borja Real Sanchez
sponsor: Manaslu 2014 UNA Pala
approach: Samagaon trekking
bcdate: 2014-09-08
smtdate: 2014-09-30
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2014-10-04
campsites: BC(08/09,4800m),C1(10/09,5800m),C2(13/09,6400m),C3(15/09,6800m),C4(29/09,7400m),Smt(30/09)
accidents: Frostbite on both feet by Carvajal and both hands by Saldana; Velez fall
agency: Bochi Bochi Treks
routememo:
  BC  08/09  4800m
  C1  10/09  5800m	
  C2  13/09  6400m
  C3  15/09  6800m
  C4  29/09  7400m
  Smt 30/09  by Carvajal Rodriguez and Fernandez Vivancos at 10 am, 
             Saldana Rodriguez and Velez Ruiz 11:30 am.

  When summit team arrived at C4, they had to sleep in somebody else's tent due to the fact that Saldana had lost their tent on the ascent (it fell out of his rucksack). On 30 Sept, they left C4 at 3 am. Weather was good. On the ascent there were no complications. Carvajal and Fernandez were the first to summit and waited for the others to arrive on the top. During this time Carvajal got very cold feet. Once everyone was on the top they descended to C4 at about 12 noon.

  When they arrived at C4 at 2 pm they first could not find a tent to sleep in; however, they did not want to descend any further as the team was very tired. When they found a shovel, they started digging and found two very small tents, where they camped in for the night. It was very uncomfortable and they could not really sleep. At C4 Carvajal noticed that he had frostbite on both feet and Saldana realized that he had frostbite on both hands.

  On 1 Oct, the summit team descended to C3. On his way down, Velez Ruiz took a fall on the fixed ropes and hurt his knee at about 7200m. He could hardly walk and the others had to help him down to C3, where they arrived at 11 am. On 2 Oct Carvajal, who was suffering from frostbite, descended to BC carrying some of their gear while Fernandez, Saldana and Velez stayed at C3 for another night as they were waiting for a helicopter rescue for Velez Ruiz. On 3 Oct the helicopter arrived and first evacuated Velez Ruiz from C3 and then Carvajal from BC as his frostbite was getting worse. Fernandez and Saldana descended to BC by foot and flew out of BC by helicopter on 4 Oct.

  Real Sanchez reached about 7000m on 29 Sept. He did not continue as he was not feeling well.

  Garcia Lorente reached 7000m on 18 Sept. He did not get on with one of the team members and decided to leave the expedition. He left 26 Sept and walked out via the Larkya La.

  Merchan Cotos reached 6200m 14 Sept. He did not acclimatize well and abandoned his climb. He left the expedition on 26 Sept and walked out via the Larkya La together with Garcia Lorente.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


expid: MANA14306
peakid: MANA
year: 2014
route1: NE Face
nation: Poland
leaders: Andrej Bargiel
sponsor: Manaslu & Cho Oyu Ski Challenge 2014
approach: Samagaon
bcdate: 2014-09-09
smtdate: 2014-09-25
smttime: 1206
termdate: 2014-09-27
othersmts: Held permit for Cho Oyu (did not attempt)
campsites: BC(09/09,4800m),C1(11/09,5600m),C2(13/09,6200m),C3(16/09,6700m),C4(29/09,7400m),Smt(25/09)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  09/09  4800m
  C1  11/09  5600m
  C2  13/09  6200m
  C3  16/09  6700m
  Smt 25/09  by Bargiel at 12:06 pm.

  Andrzej Bargiel started from BC at 10 pm on 24 Sept. He was carrying his skis on his backpack. He reached C3 at 2:30 am on 25 Sept. He rested there for 2 hours and carried on to the summit arriving at 12:06 pm. He stayed for about 20 minutes on the summit and skied down to about 6500m from where he took off his skis and continued to BC by foot. He reached BC at 7 pm.

  With this ascent, Andrzej Bargiel did the fastest ascent of Manaslu in 14 hours and 6 minutes. He did the round trip in 21 hours.

  Grzegorz Bargiel reached C4 on 25 Sept at 8 am. He did not feel well acclimatized and turned back. He descended to BC the same day.

  Zaluski reached C3 on 25 Sept. He was the cameraman and did not intend to summit.

  Marcin Kin reached 6000m on 13 Sept. He was the photographer and did not intend to summit.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


expid: MANA14307
peakid: MANA
year: 2014
route1: NE Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Hans Goger
sponsor: Austrians on Manaslu
countries: Finland, Italy
approach: Larkya La
bcdate: 2014-09-11
smtdate: 2014-09-24
termdate: 2014-09-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to altitude sickness of Niederkofler and Tod
campsites: BC(11/09,4800m),C1(15/09,5600m),C2(18/09,6400m),C3(24/09,6800m),xxx(24/09,6800m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  11/09  4800m 
  C1  15/09  5600m
  C2  18/09  6400m
  C3  24/09  6800m
  HPt 24/09  6800m by Bruckner, Fellner, Goger, Niederkofler, Schweiger, Tod.

  The team was on their summit push and stayed the night at C3 on 24 Sept. On 2 Sept it was very windy, so they decided to stay another night at C3. Neither Tod nor Niederkofler felt well and they were very altitude sick. On 26 Sept at 6 am, it was clear that both Niederkofler and Tod had to go down as they had not recovered. After discussing with the group they decided that everyone would descend. They left C3 at about 8 am and arrived at BC at 5 pm.

  The team had established all their own camps without help of Sherpas. On the way down they dismantled all the camps and brought all their rubbish down. Once they were back down, Niederkofler and Tod felt better.

  Nordstrom reached 5800m on 16 Sept. He was not strong enough to continue and remained at BC for rest of expedition.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


expid: CHOY14302
peakid: CHOY
year: 2014
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Oier Plazaola
sponsor: Spaniards to Cho Oyu
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2014-09-10
smtdate: 2014-10-02
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2014-10-04
campsites: BC(10/09,5000m),ABC(14/09,5700m),C1(17/09,6400m),C2(22/09,7200m),C3(01/10,7400m),Smt(02/10)
accidents: Garcia has bad frostbite on both feet
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  10/09  5000m
  ABC 14/09  5700m
  C1  17/09  6400m
  C2  22/09  7200m
  C3  01/10  7400m
  Smt 02/10  by Garcia at 9:20 am, Piazaola at 8:30 am, Urrate at 9 am (NST).

  Team started from C3 at 11:30 pm (NST). Weather was good. After about 30 minutes Garcia already noticed that his feet were very cold, but carried on. They climbed very slowly and stayed for about 40 minutes on the summit. They descended to C3, where they arrived at 11 am. Due to the wind, their tent was buried in snow and they had to dig for one hour hour to get it out.

  In C3 Garcia noticed that he had frostbite on both feet. It would have been better for the team to descend to C2 that day, but they were too tired. On 3 Oct they descended to ABC.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


expid: CHOY14303
peakid: CHOY
year: 2014
route1: NW side
nation: Poland
leaders: Olek Ostrowski
sponsor: Cho Oyu 8201 Samyang Ski Expedition 2014
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2014-09-05
smtdate: 2014-09-29
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2014-10-03
campsites: BC(05/09,4900m),IC(08/09,5350m),ABC(09/09,5700m),C1(13/09,6400m),C2(23/09,7100m),Smt(29/09)
achievment: 1st Polish to ski down Cho Oyu
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Ostrowski started his summit push from C2 at 1:45 am (CST) on 29th September. He got to the top at 4:45 pm (2:30 pm NST) (about 15 hours climbing) and stayed there for about 45 minutes. Then he skied down to C2 where he arrived at 6:45 pm. Packed up C2, then continued to ski to C2 where he reached at 11 pm. Next day 30 September went down to ABC. The summit day weather was good.


expid: CHOY14304
peakid: CHOY
year: 2014
route1: NW side
nation: Malaysia
leaders: Azim Afif Ishak
sponsor: Malaysian 8000ers to Cho Oyu
approach: Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2014-09-07
smtdate: 2014-09-29
smttime: 0745
termdate: 2014-10-01
campsites: BC(07/09,4900m),ABC(10/09,5700m),C1(12/09,6400m),C2(21/09,7200m),C3(28/09,7500m),Smt(29/09)
accidents: Frostbite on right middle finger by Afif
agency: Ever Quest Expeditions
routememo:
  BC  07/09  4900m
  ABC 10/09  5700m
  C1  12/09  6400m
  C2  21/09  7200m
  C3  28/09  7500m
  Smt 29/09  by Afif and Ongdik Bhote at 10 am CST (7:45 NST).

  Summit team left C3 at 1:30 am (CST). When they started out the weather was calm, but cold. They spent about 30 minutes on the summit. On the way down, Afif took off his right glove on the Yellow Band to put the rope through his rappel device and the wind blew away his right glove. His right hand got very cold and he got slight frostbite on his right middle finger. They descended to C3, where they arrived at about 4 pm. The following day they descended to ABC.

  On his return to Kathmandu, Afif went to Norvic Hospital to get treated for his frostbite.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from 7400m to summit to C2 by Afif
    Ongdik Bhote did not use any oxygen

  Sherpas:
    Ongdik Bhote, Hungung, Hatiya, Makalu-Barun (1st 8000er)


expid: MANA14308
peakid: MANA
year: 2014
route1: NE Face
nation: USA
leaders: Ryan Waters
sponsor: Mountain Professionals Manaslu Expedition 2014
countries: Ireland, Norway
bcdate: 2014-09-12
smtdate: 2014-10-01
smttime: 0820
termdate: 2014-10-03
campsites: BC(12/09,4800m),C1(16/09,5800m),C2(19/09,6200m),C3(6800m),C4(30/09,7400m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Himalayan Trailblazer
routememo:
  All five members and their three climbing Sherpas summited. Falkum, Gude, Roche, Teigen and Waters left C4 at 3:30 am on 1 October with their Sherpas Ang Gelu, Ang Phurba and Tshering Dorje, and were on the top at 8:20 am. The entire party descended to C2 at 5:00 pm that day and were back in BC on the 2nd. They left BC on the 3rd and flew to Kathmandu by helicopter on the 4th.

  All the members used oxygen from C4 to the summit and down to C3. The Sherpas used none.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Gelu Sherpa, 23/7/70, Surke, Khumbu, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X3, Manaslu X1
    Ang Phurba Sherpa, 1/12/90, Phurte, Namche-4, Khumbu, Everest X2
    Tshering Dorje Sherpa, 3/3/89, Beding, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X7, Manaslu X2


expid: CHOY14305
peakid: CHOY
year: 2014
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Ben Jones
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Cho Oyu Expedition 2014
countries: UK
bcdate: 2014-09-05
smtdate: 2014-09-29
smttime: 0654
termdate: 2014-10-02
campsites: BC(05/09,4800m),ABC(09/09,5300m),C1(16/09,6400m),C2(24/09,7030m),C3(28/09,7600m),Smt(29/09)
accidents: Alexander's exhaustion
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  Summit team, composed of all members except Alexander, plus four Sherpas, left C3 at 1:00 am (NST) on 29 September, got to the summit at 6:54 am, returned to C3 at 9:30 am and descended to C1 at 2:30 pm. They were back in ABC on the 30th, left ABC and BC on 2 October and arrived in Kathmandu on the 4th.

  The summiters were D'Hers, Jones, Morris, Safari and Siewald, plus Sherpas Ang Kancha, Fur Kancha, Kami Rita and Lhakpa Rita.

  Michael Alexander had dropped out on 24 September. He reached C1 on 23 September with difficulty, then quit the expedition because of exhaustion, and left the team on the 24th.

  They fixed 1000 feet (300 meters) of rope from 7700m to 8075m (35,500 to 26,500 feet), from slightly above C3 through the Yellow Band and above it.

  Bottled oxygen was used by Jones and Lhakpa Rita up from C3 to the summit and down until it ran out. The other summiting members used in up from C2 to C3, slept on it in C3, and used it continously up from C3 to the top and down as long as it lasted.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Ang Nuru Sherpa, 5/12/81, Thamiteng, Everest X2
    Fur Kancha Sherpa, 17/1/77, Thami, Cho Oyu X3, Everest X9
    Kami Rita Sherpa, 17/1/70, Thami, Cho Oyu X6, Everest X19, Lhotse X1
    Lhakpa Rita Sherpa, 9/9/66, originally from Thami but now lives in 
      Shoreline, Washington, USA


expid: MANA14309
peakid: MANA
year: 2014
route1: NE Face
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Manaslu Expedition 2014
countries: Canada, China, France, Japan, Kenya, Norway, Poland, Switzerland, UK, USA
approach: Helicopter to Samagaon
bcdate: 2014-09-02
smtdate: 2014-09-25
smttime: 0856
termdate: 2014-09-29
campsites: BC(02/09,4847m),C1(02/09,5159m),C2(17/09,6376m),C3(22/09,6916m),C4(24/09,7438m),Smt(25/09)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  The summit party was composed of all 11 climbing members and all nine Sherpas with the team; all reached the top. (Doctor Metcafe and the leader stayed in BC). The climbers left C4 for the summit on 25 September at 4:00 am and were on the the summit from 8:56 am to 10:18 am. In their descent, Barton, Baissieres, Lichota, Orderud, Rehsi and Song stopped for the night in C2 while the other summiters continued all the way down to BC.

  The Sherpas used oxygen from C4 to the top and down until their supplies ran out.  The members started on it from C3 and used it to the summit and down until it ran out.

  Sherpas:
    Fura Chheten, 29/8/90, Phortse
    Galzen Dorji, 2/1/88, Phortse
    Lhakpa Nuru, 1962, Phortse
    Ngawang Tenzing, 20/11/93, Phortse
    Ngima Sona, 18/9/69, Khumjung
    Phurba Tashi, 24/5/81, Khumjung
    Phuru Namgya, 13/8/87, Khumjung
    Tashi Tsering, 5/8/90, Khumjung
    Tenzing Gyalgen, 30/10/96, Phortse


expid: CHOY14306
peakid: CHOY
year: 2014
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Giorgio Brunori
sponsor: Cho Oyu Trekking Cho Oyu Expedition 2014
countries: Ecuador, Romania
bcdate: 2014-09-17
smtdate: 2014-10-02
smttime: 0715
termdate: 2014-10-08
campsites: BC(17/09,4900m),ABC(14/09,5600m),C1(20/09,6400m),C2(23/09,7100m),C3(01/10,7400m),Smt(02/10)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  This climb was organized by Cho Oyu Trekking, who considered them as one team, but actually there were three separated parties who arrived in Nepal on different dates and stayed in two different hotels, and climbed separately with no leadership. The only members who knew of the other were the two Italians who did not know each other.

  All of them left Kathmandu together on 11 September by road to BC and returned together by road from BC on 9 October.

  Only one party, the Italians, had one Sherpa with them, and they took medical oxygen along but did not use it. No one in the group became frostbitten or seriously ill, nor had any accidents.

  The Italians, Antonio Magliacano and Giorgio Brunori, arrived in Kathmandu on 8 September and stayed in the Malla Hotel. The Ecuadorian, Ms. Carla Perez, also arrived on 8 September, while the Romanian, Justin Ionescu, arrived on the 1st, and the two went to the Hotel Thamel.

  For much of the climb, the three parties climbed independently of each other and made separate camps. Their progress up the mountain was roughly as follows:

  Chinese BC was reached by all together at 4900m on 17 September, and ABC together at 5600m on 19 September. Then they moved separately.

  Perez apparently was the best climber in the group. She pitched her C1 at 6400m on 20 September.

  All members got to C1 at 6400m on 20 September. Perez and Ionescu carried on to the top, but the two Italians dropped out well below. Brunori got midway between C1 and C2 on 16 September, but then turned around because he was tired and had a bad cough; he went down to ABC. Magliacano climbed up on 3 October from C2 to reach 7350m before giving up in the face of strong winds and retreating to C2. Their Sherpa, Pemba Gelje, climbed first with Brunori and then with Magliacano.

  The only summiters were Ms. Clara Perez from Ecuador and Justin Ionescu from Romania. They left C3 for the top at 1:30 am on 2 October. Perez was on the summit at 7:15 am and Ionescu followed at 9:30 am.

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Gelje, 30/12/91, Jubing, Solu 
      Claims Everest ascents in 2012 with Simone Moro (no one summited with this
      team) and in 2013 with an Indian team with Ashwami Kumar (confirmed)


expid: MANA14310
peakid: MANA
year: 2014
route1: NE Face
nation: Kyrgyz Republic
leaders: Dmitri Grekov
sponsor: South Lnylehek Team
countries: Georgia, Russia
approach: Helicopter to Samagaon
bcdate: 2014-09-07
smtdate: 2014-09-24
termdate: 2014-09-28
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(07/09,3600m),C1(11/09,5600m),C2(12/09,6400m),C3(22/09,6800m),C4(23/09,7440m),xxx(24/09,8000m)
agency: Dream Himalaya Adventures (Snowy Horizon pmt)
routememo:
  The "South Lnylehek Team" team started its summit push with three members (Braun, Kudashova and Terentyeva) led by Grekov from C4 at 6 am in windy weather on 24 September. They reached at 8000m at 3:30 pm and could not go beyond due to excessive snow conditions enroute. The team turned around from 8000m to C4 about 6 pm. They spent the night there at C4. Next day 25 September they went down to C2 and following day to Samagaon.

  Gujabidze's high point was 7500m.

  About 25 climbers summited on 25 Sept.


expid: CHOY14307
peakid: CHOY
year: 2014
route1: NW side
nation: S Korea
leaders: Choi Young-Kyu
sponsor: Barum Cho Oyu Expedition 2014
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2014-09-10
smtdate: 2014-09-28
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2014-10-04
campsites: BC(10/09,5000m),ABC(14/09,5700m),C1(19/09,6400m),C2(20/09,7200m),Smt(28/09)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  10/09  5000m
  ABC 14/09  5700m
  C1  19/09  6400m
  C2  20/09  7200m
  Smt 28/09  by Park, Chhiji Nurbu at 9 am (NST). 

  Park and Chhiji Nurbu left C2 at 11 pm (NST) on 27 Sept. Weather was calm. Straigtforward climb. They stayed for about 30 minutes on the summit and descended to ABC the same day. It took them about six hours to get there.

  Choi reached C1 three times; he was not strong enough to go any higher.

  Jeong reached 6800m on 20 Sept; he did not continue due to lack of strength.

  Kwak reached 6600m on 20 Sept; he was too slow and even though he felt good, he decided to quit.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from 8000m to top to 8000m by Park and Chhiji Nurbu.

  Sherpas:
    Chhiji Nurbu, Upper Walung, Makalu-Barun, 30/7/80


expid: CHOY14308
peakid: CHOY
year: 2014
route1: NW side
nation: Denmark
leaders: Bo Belvedere Christensen
sponsor: Danish Cho Oyu Expedition 2014
approach: Kodari->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2014-09-13
smtdate: 2014-09-27
smttime: 1615
termdate: 2014-09-30
agency: Arun Treks (Snowy Horizon pmt)
campsites:
  BC(13/09,5000m),IC(14/09,5300m),ABC(15/09,5750m),IC2(17/09,6150m),C1(18/09,6450m),C2(19/09,7130m),Smt(27/09)

routememo:
  Christensen started his summit bid from C2 at 7 am NST on 27 September. He got to the top at 4:15 pm and stayed there for about 10 minutes, then back to C2 where he arrived at 6:45 pm and spent the night there. Next day, 28 September, he went down to ABC. He could not see Everest as the Nepal side was covered by clouds. He saw some flags on the summit.

  He spent 2 days around ABC of Shishapangma and left on 5 October.


expid: CHOY14309
peakid: CHOY
year: 2014
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Wolfgang Pohl
sponsor: Three Germans on Xixabangma and Cho Oyu
approach: Lhasa->Tingri->Xixabangma
bcdate: 2014-09-24
smtdate: 2014-10-01
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2014-10-04
campsites: BC(24/09,4900m),ABC(26/09,5700m),C1(29/09,6400m),C2(30/09,7100m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  24/09  4900m
  ABC 26/09  5700m
  C1  29/09  6400m
  C2  30/09  7100m
  Smt 01/10  by Pohl, Dawa Jangbu at 10:15 am CST (8:00 NST); Steinberg and Mingma
             at 11:30 am (CST).

  Summit team left C2 at 3 am (CST). Weather was calm and clear, but very cold. Straightforward climb. They spent about 30 minutes on the summit and descended to site of C3, where Steinberg and Pohl had left their skis. They descended on skis to C2, where Pohl arrived at 1:30 pm and Steinberg at 5 pm. The following day they continued on skis to C1 and continued on foot to ABC.

  Biagosch reached 6500m on 30 Sept. He had very cold feet and decided to abandon the climb.

  The team acclimatized very quickly as they came from Xixabangma, where they reached C1 at about 6200m before heading to Cho Oyu.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C2 to summit to C3 by members and Sherpas.

  Summit Sherpas:
    Mingma (Ang Mingma) 21/2/1968, Yilajung, Khumbu
    Dawa Jangbu (Da Jangbu), 28/4/1986, Thamiteng, Khumbu


expid: MANA14311
peakid: MANA
year: 2014
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Toshiyuki Kitamura
sponsor: Adventure Guides Mt. Manaslu Expedition 2014
bcdate: 2014-09-15
smtdate: 2014-10-03
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2014-10-05
campsites: BC(15/09,4800m),C1(20/09,5600m),C2(26/09,6300m),C3(01/10,6800m),C4(02/10,7400m),Smt(03/10)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Team left C4 3 October at 3 am and reached summit at 8:30 am. Then descended to C2 and reached there at 5:00 pm. On 4 October everyone reached BC.


expid: CHOY14310
peakid: CHOY
year: 2014
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Michael Hamill
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Cho Oyu Expedition 2014
countries: France, New Zealand
bcdate: 2014-09-04
smtdate: 2014-09-29
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2014-10-03
campsites: BC(04/09,4968m),ABC(09/09,5669m),C1(14/09,6123m),C2(20/09,7071m),C3(28/09,7470m),Smt(29/09)
agency: Beyul Adventure
routememo:
  The summit party left C3 at 1:30 am (NST) on 29 September. They were Arnold, Behmand, Burke, Cayrol, Christianson, Hamill, McDowell, Mingma Tenjin, Mingma Tshering, Nima Karma and Phunuru.

  All reached the summit between 6:00 and 8:00 am of the 29th and descended as follows: Rogers and Phunuru were in ABC at 1:30 pm, Behmand joined them at 5:00 pm, Burke, Christianson and McDowell stopped in C2 while Arnold, Cayol, Hamill and Morrow went down to C1. All Sherpa summiters descended to ABC.

  Oxygen was used by summiting members from C2 or nearby to top and down to C2, and by summiting Sherpas from C2 to top and down until their supply ran out.

  The only casualty was Burke, who developed a mild case of frostbite on the tip of one finger on summit day.

  Non-summiting members

  Bennett got stomach bug (food poisoning) in C2 on 28 September.

  Duester twisted his knee before arriving at BC, and left the team on 20 September.

  Wilhide had some kind of throat infection, perhaps tonsillitis and left on 25 September.

  Sherpas:
   
  All of the Sherpas came from Phortse and all but one, Fura Gyalzen, had been to 8000-meter summits before. Their dates of birth were:

    Fura Gyalzen, 30/5/96
    Mingma Dorje, 22/7/65
    Mingma Tenjin, 10/6/92
    Mingma Tshering, 26/4/72
    Nima Karma, 30/6/83
    Phunuru, 16/5/80


expid: MANA14312
peakid: MANA
year: 2014
route1: NE Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Riccardo Bergamini
sponsor: Riccardo Bergamini on Manaslu
approach: Arughat->Labubesi->Filim->Gap->Low->Samagaon
bcdate: 2014-09-22
smtdate: 2014-09-28
termdate: 2014-10-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to Sherpa refusal to go up
campsites: BC(22/09,4800m),C1(26/09,5700m),C2(27/09,6500m),xxx(28/09,6700m)
agency: Cultural Treks (Snowy Horizon prmt)
routememo:
  Bergamini planned to go to summit on 1 October, but after rotation no one to go with him [after his Sherpa refusal to go up].

  Sherpa:
    Sonam Chhiring Lama, (11/5/2046) 27/8/89, Hatiya


expid: CHOY14312
peakid: CHOY
year: 2014
route1: NW side
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Rene Mathis
sponsor: Cho Oyu 2014
approach: Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2014-09-09
smtdate: 2014-09-30
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2014-10-04
campsites: BC(09/09,4900m),ABC(12/09,5700m),C1(19/09,6400m),C2(29/09,7100m),Smt(30/09)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  09/09  4900m
  ABC 12/09  5700m
  C1  19/09  6400m
  C2  29/09  7100m
  Smt 30/09  by Mathis and Pasang Rita Sherpa at 9 am (NST).

  Summit team left C2 at 10 pm (NST). Weather was calm and clear, but very cold. Straightforward climb. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at 2 pm. The following day they descended to ABC.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C2 to summit to 7900m by Mathis and from C3 to summit to C2 by Pasang Rita.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Rita, 1/7/77, Thamo, Khumbu


expid: CHOY14313
peakid: CHOY
year: 2014
route1: NW side
nation: Russia
leaders: Alex Abramov
sponsor: Seven Summits Club Cho Oyu Expedition 2014
countries: Latvia
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->Old Tingri
bcdate: 2014-09-18
smtdate: 2014-10-06
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2014-10-07
agency: 7 Summits Adventure
campsites:
  CBC(18/09,4800m),IC(20/09,5300m),ABC(21/09,5700m),C1(24/09,6400m),C2(29/04,7100m),C3(05/10,7500m),Smt(06/10)

routememo:
  Abramov team started its summit push from C3 between 2:30-3 am on 6 October. The team got to the top between 9:30-9:45 am. Climbers stayed on the top about 30 minutes, then descended C3 where the first member reached around 11 am and last one Kuzmin at 1 pm. The team did not use oxygen on descent. Menskiy and Voronov went down to ABC and left in the night. Other members spent night at C1 and next day went down to ABC. Abramov team was the only team on the summit on that day. The summit day weather was perfect.

  Sherpas:
    Kasang Dawa, 25 November 1992
    Ngima Ongdi, 19 February 1979
    Nurbu Chhiring, 29 July 1980
    Nurbu, 16 February 1991
    Pemba Nurbu, 28 March 1980
    Phurbu Kusang, 6 December 1973

    All are from Sankhuwasabha.

  Menskiy and Voronov left ABC 6 Oct, rest of team on 7 Oct.


expid: CHOY14314
peakid: CHOY
year: 2014
route1: NW side
nation: Nepal
leaders: Lakpa Sherpa
sponsor: Himalayan Ascent Cho Oyu Expedition 2014
countries: Australia, UK
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2014-09-17
smtdate: 2014-10-04
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2014-10-06
agency: Himalayan Ascent
campsites:
  CBC(17/09,4900m),IC(19/09,5300m),ABC(20/09,5700m),C1(25/09,6100m),C1.5(27/09,6700m),C2(02/10,7100m),C3(03/10,7400m),Smt(04/10)

routememo:
  Lakpa led the team consisting of Burke, Watroba and Jangbu. They started the summit push from C3 at 3 am (NST) and got to the top at 8:30 am. The team members stayed on summit for 30 minutes, then returned to C3 where they arrived around 11 am. Same day the team went down to ABC. This is the only team on the mountain on that day.

  High point for Marriott was 6800m; he was exhausted.

  Sherpa:
    Jangbu Sherpa, 20/7/87, Sisuwakhola-9, Sankhuwasabha


expid: LUGU14101
peakid: LUGU
year: 2014
route1: S Couloir-SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Rim Il-Jin
sponsor: Hankuk University of Foreign Studies (HUFS) Lugula Expedition
ascent1: 2nd
approach: Bhulbhule->Kot->Meta->Kyang->Phu
bcdate: 2014-04-13
smtdate: 2014-04-23
smttime: 0915
termdate: 2014-04-27
campsites: BC(13/04,5050m),ABC(16/04,5500m),C1(17/04,5800m),C2(22/04,6150m),Smt(23/04)
achievment: 1st official ascent
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  13 Apr - 5050m on Bharchapk Glacier.
  ABC	16 Apr - 5500m
  C1  17 Apr - 5800m
  C2  22 Apr - 6150m on the crest of Lugula’s SW Ridge.

  Hong, Buhm, Kim, Jand, Peme and Lakpa, led by Rim started their summit push from C2 at 2 am of 23 April. When the team reached at 6750m strong wind started; then Rim asked Kim and Jang to stop. Two climbers and Rim turned around from 6750m to C2 while Hong, Buhm and the two Sherpas continued to the top where Hong and Peme reached at 9:15 am followed by Buhm with Lakpa at 9:30 am. The team stayed on summit for 20 minutes, then went down to C2 at 12 noon. Next day all descended BC.  
  •  The couloirs just below C2 named as "Korean Gate"
  •  The snowfield leading to SW Ridge named after "Hong Step", 25-30 degree slope.
  •  ABC to C2 steep face 80 degrees
  •  Not very difficult route.

  The HUFS (Hankuk University of Foreign Studies) Lugula Expedition 2014 Spring to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the HUFS Mountaineering Club.

  Fixed rope: 400m between C1 and C2

  Sherpas:
    Peme, 21/09/65 (05/06/2022), Nurbugaon, Makalu-5
    Lakpa, 27/11/86, Makalu-9

  Note: The peak at the time expedition was not open for expeditions. The team got a permit for Chako.


  Lugula (6899m): First official ascent, by south couloir and west ridge
  By Lim Sung-Muk

  On April 10 an eight-member expedition from the Hankuk University of Foreign Studies Alpine Club, led by Rim Il-Jin, arrived in Phu. Here they hired a local guide to lead them to base camp (5050m) on the Bharchapk Glacier.

  Lugula is the highest point of the Lugula Himal in the most northerly section of the Annapurna Conservation Area. Seen from base camp to the south, it stands between Bhrikuti Sail (6361m) on the left and Chako (6704m). The east-west ridge connecting Bhrikuti Sail to Chako forms the Nepal-Tibet border.

  The team climbed steep moraine hill and narrow valley for three kilometers to reach the left side of Lugula's south face. Here they established advanced base at 5450m and then set about climbing the couloir falling from the col between Bhrikuti Sail and Lugula. They placed Camp 1 on the ridge leading into the couloir. (The friable rock on this crest led them to dub it Biscuit Ridge.) Fixing ropes, they moved upward until the 18th, when they were forced down to base camp to collect the equipment needed to break through the final 80-degree, 60m ice face leading to the col.

  On the 22nd climbing leader Hong Seung-Gi forced the route to the col, and the team established Camp 2 on the crest of Lugula's west ridge. The dry Tibetan plateau was visible to the north; a large snowfield, dubbed Minerva (the university motif) unfolded above.

  At 2:30 am on the 23rd, five members, including Rim Il-Jin and two Sherpas, set out for the summit. Due to strong wind and snow it was hard to see, but by the time the sun came up they had reached the point where the west ridge turns more toward the northeast. A slip from this narrow ridge would have resulted in a fall of about 1000m in either direction. As the wind increased, Rim and two other members decided to retreat from 6550m.

  The remaining climbers surmounted the steep Hong's Step, and at 9:10 am Hong Seung-Gi and Peme Sherpa reached the top. They were joined five minutes later by Bum Won-Taek and Lakpa Sherpa. All returned to Camp 2 that afternoon and were safely back in base camp the next day.

  Provided and translated by Lim Sung-Muk, Man and Mountain, Korea

  Editor's note: This team may not have been aware of an unauthorized ascent of Lugula in 2010. In autumn that year a French party climbed Bhrikuti Sail by the south face and upper southwest ridge. The three French went to the summit on November 1 from a bivouac halfway up the face at 6070m, and returned to this bivouac the same night. On the 2nd one of the French reports moving east from the bivouac, gaining the west ridge of Lugula, and following it to the summit. He descended to the bivouac, and the same day all three climbers went down to their lower camp at 5500m.


expid: AMAD14302
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Adrian Ballinger
sponsor: Alpenglow Expeditions Ama Dablam 2014
countries: USA
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2014-11-12
smtdate: 2014-11-15
termdate: 2014-11-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m (filming only)
campsites: BC(12/11,4600m),C1(13/11,5700m),C2(14/11,6000m),xxx(15/11,6400m)
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  BC  12/11  4600m
  C1  13/11  5700m	
  C2  14/11  6000m (members)
  HPt 15/11  6400m (just below Camp 2.7) by Doucette, Rogel, Bardon, 
             Ballinger and Warren.

  Team never intended to climb to the summit as it was filming trip.

  Left BC 17 Nov by helicopter.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


expid: AMAD14303
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Mike Hamill
sponsor: Hamill Ama Dablam Expedition 2014
countries: UK
bcdate: 2014-10-24
smtdate: 2014-10-29
termdate: 2014-11-04
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to client exhaustion
campsites: BC(24/10,4600m),C1(27/10,5600m),xxx(29/10,6100m)
agency: Beyul Adventure
routememo:
  Hamill leads large teams to Everest for International Mountain Guides (IMG), but this season he led one private client on a much smaller moutain, Ama Dablam. The two members and one Sherpa, Nuru Gyalzen, established BC on 24 October and occupied C1 three days later. A tent was pitched at C2 for storing supplies, but not intended for climbers to occupy, and indeed they did not. On the 29th they climbed to the camp's site at 6100m for acclimatization and returned to BC the same day.

  They rested in BC for two nights, then returned to C1 on 1 November and the next day up to C2 site and down to C1 to sleep. But of the 3rd, instead of moving up the mountain, they abandoned the climb and descended to BC. Follows had run out of steam.

  The team fixed no rope themselves, but contributed to the work of others.

  Katrina Follows plans to attempt Lhotse in 2015.

  Sherpa:
    Nuru Gyalzen Sherpa, 18/8/73, Phortse, Everest X6, Manaslu X2


expid: AMAD14304
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiroko Yamanaka
sponsor: Yamanaka to Ama Dablam
bcdate: 2014-10-20
smtdate: 2014-10-23
termdate: 2014-10-27
termnote: Abandoned at 5760m due to Yamanaka's breathing problems
othersmts: Summited Mera Peak on 9 Oct
campsites: BC(20/10,4600m),C1(22/10,5650m),xxx(23/10,5760m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Ms. Yamanaka's team consisted of just three climbers: herself and two Tamangs, Tul Bahadur and Chhombe. Before going to BC, they climbed Mera Peak and all three of them summited it on 9 October.

  They established Ama Dablam BC on 20 October and two days later occupied C1 at 5650m. On the 23rd, they set out for C2, but never got there. Yamanaka was now having difficulty breathing and had to turn back at 5,760m.

  This was the expedition's high point. Yamanaka was unable to walk properly and the two Tamangs had to bring her down to C1, one supporting her on the each side. They stayed in C1 for two nights. At the lower altitude, Yamanaka's ability to walk unaided returned and they descended to BC on the 25th, left BC for Lukla on the 25th.

  Hired:
    Chhombe Tamang, 19/11/68, Deusa, Solu, no 8000ers
    Tul Bahadur Tamang, 30/8/66, Deusa, Solu, Cho Oyu X2, Dhaulagiri X1, Everest X2,
       Manaslu X1


expid: AMAD14305
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Soren Kruse Ledet
sponsor: World Expeditions Ama Dablam 2014
countries: China, Denmark
approach: Lukla->Namche->Phortse->Gokyo->Chola->Lobuche->Dingboche
bcdate: 2014-10-27
smtdate: 2014-11-02
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2014-11-05
othersmts: Summited Lobuche East on 24 Oct by all except McHenry
campsites: BC(27/10,4700m),C1(30/10,5700m),C2(31/10,6000m),C3(01/11,6300m),Smt(02/11)
agency: Highland Excursions
routememo:
  Carter, Jankowski, Jay, Jennings, Kratky, Ledet, Price, Lakpa Nuru, Ang Pemba, Laxmi Kumar and Nawang Dorje started from C3 around 6:30 am for summit. All members and four Nepalis went to the summit by noon. They stayed on summit for 30 minutes. They returned C3 by 4:30 pm and slept there. Next day 3 November all went down to BC where they arrived at 9:30 pm. 

  High point for Jing and McHenry is bottom of grey tower 6050m. They were slow and went back to C2.

  The morning of 3 November was pretty hectic for Ledet team; first Jennings realized frostbite in his middle finger of left hand and became handicapped as he is left-handed. They asked for a helicopter lift for Jennings. On the same morning around 4:30 falling ice killed Dendi Sherpa of Himalayan Ascent climbing with a Swiss team. The ice hit straight on his face. The Swiss climber Gertsch had a fractured pelvis. The accident occured above C3. Gertsch had initial treatment inside the tent of Ledet team. Jennings and Gertch were rescued from C3 by helicopter (Simrik) to BC, then to Lukla and the same day to Kathmandu. The dead body of Dendi also was brought down to BC by helicopter.

  Sherpas:
    Lakpa Nuru Sherpa, (5/5/2038) 21/8/1981, Chaurikharka-5
    Ang Pemba Sherpa, (15/6/2014) 1/10/84, Namche-9
    Nawang Dorje Sherpa, (10/5/2033) 26/8/76, Jubing-9
    Laxmi Kumar Rai, (15/12/2040) 28/3/84, Bung-5


expid: AMAD14306
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Brazil
leaders: Clarissa De Carvalho
sponsor: Monterosa Ama Dablam 2014
countries: USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Chhukung->Island Peak BC->Pangboche
bcdate: 2014-10-20
smtdate: 2014-10-26
termdate: 2014-10-30
othersmts: Summited Island Peak on 18th Oct by Carvalho and Nichols
campsites: BC(20/10,4600m),ABC(22/10,5400m),C1(23/10,5800m),C2(25/10,6000m),Smt(26/10)
accidents: Nichols suffered from HAS (headache, dizziness, persistent cough) starting from Namche
achievment: 2nd female and 3rd person from Brazil
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  De Carvalho started her summit bid from C2 at O:30 am. She got to the top at 2:30 pm. She had to stay an hour an half on the summit waiting to clear the rope as a Slovakian climber was very slow to descend since he could not rappel and his Sherpa was helping him to go down. She reached C2 at 8 pm. Next day 27 October she went down to BC. Ahead of De Carvalho there were Slovenians + Sherpas, two Germans + Sherpas and two Spanish.

  Nichols did not stay in Ama Dablam BC due to illness and left for Namche.


expid: AMAD14307
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yuki Maeda
sponsor: Hosei Alpine Club Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Tengboche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2014-10-15
smtdate: 2014-10-22
smttime: 1450
termdate: 2014-10-23
campsites: BC(15/10,4700m),C1(20/10,5750m),C2(21/10,5950m),Smt(22/10)
accidents: Maeda suffered from high altitude sickness at C2 (cough and fever).
agency: Independent guide (Snowy Horizon pmt)
routememo:
  Hashimoto, Ishii, Maeda, Matsumoto, Ang Dawa and Chhapte started their summit bid from C2 at 1:30 am on 22 October. Hashimoto, Ishii and Matsumoto turned around from 6500m to C2 since they were slow and getting late as it was already 2 pm. Maeda, Ang Dawa and Chhapte continued their climb and got to the top at 2:50 pm and stayed there for about 30 minutes. They returned to C2 at 8:30 pm and spent the night there. Maeda got sick and he was given oxygen. Next day 23 October Maeda was heli-lifted to Kathmandu from ABC and the rest of the members went down to BC.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Dawa, 18/11/84, Jubing-1, Cho Oyu Aut 2014
    Chhapte, (11/10/2042) 24/1/86, Tapting-1, 1st time on expedition peak


expid: AMAD14308
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Daniel Gomez Perez, Alfonso Puerta Gullien
sponsor: Spanish Ama Dablam Expedition 2014
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2014-10-14
smtdate: 2014-10-27
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2014-10-29
campsites: BC(14/10,4700m),C1(17/10,5900m),C2(26/10,6100m),Smt(27/10)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Gomez and Puerta started their summit push from C2 at 3 am on 27 October. They got to the top at 2:30 pm and stayed on summit for 30 minutes, then went back to C2 where they arrived at 6 pm. Next day they went down to BC. 

  Other climbers on summit on that day they were 1 Slovak, 2 Germans with 2 Sherpas and 1 Brazilian.


expid: AMAD14309
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Timothy Robertson
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Ama Dablam 2014
countries: UK, USA
bcdate: 2014-10-22
smtdate: 2014-11-02
smttime: 1045
termdate: 2014-11-04
campsites: BC(22/10,4500m),ABC(25/10,5400m),C1(26/10,5800m),C2(30/10,6100m),C2.7(01/11,6350m),Smt(02/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Five members and three Sherpas summited Ama Dablam on 2 November: Holt, McIntosh, Neave, Robertson and Yasso, plus Sherpas Chhewang Rinzing, Kami Rita and Sange Dorje. Four members and three Sherpas left for the top from C2.7 at 4:45 am while Yasso left from C2 at about the same time. They were on the summit between 10:30 and 11:00 am and back in C2 at 6:30 pm. All were down in BC the next day.

  Non-summiting members:

  Bidwell reached C2 on 31 October, but she was suffering from dehydration and the altitude and was on oxygen from the night of the 31st until she got back to BC on 1 November. She left the team on the 2nd.

  Bohannan got only as far as C1 and was unable to go higher. He left the team on 30 October.

  Fiori on her way to C2 on 30 October decided to leave. She was not in good condition, partly due to a hip injury from previous months.

  Sherpas:
    Chhewang Rinzing, 2/8/71, Taksindu-5, Everest X3
    Kami Rita, 22/10/77, Thami, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X12
    Sange Dorje, 14/4/78, Khumjung, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X9


expid: AMAD14312
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Stojan Burnik
sponsor: Slovenian-Bavarian Expedition 2014
countries: Germany
bcdate: 2014-10-17
smtdate: 2014-10-26
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2014-10-27
campsites: BC(17/10,4600m),ABC(20/10,5400m),C1(24/10,5800m),C2(25/10,6000m),Smt(26/10)
agency: Dream Himalaya Adventures
routememo:
  At BC, Wuttig got sick and then went down to sleep. Next day came back then on 18 Oct, the situation was the same. On 21 Oct he left BC and went back to KTM and continued to Germany.

  On 24 Oct, Stoib and Urbancic didn't feel good at C1. They slept and next day returned to BC.

  Sunshine with intermittent snow showers and fog at summit, but mostly sunny. Spent about 30 minutes on the summit.

  Accidents: Stiller had frozen fingers from summit bid (they were turning blue). Upon return to BC, he got first-aid and on 27 Oct a helicopter came and took him and Stoib to KTM. Upon arrival in KTM, they went to the hospital for immediate care and both then proceeded to return home.

  On 26 Oct, Von Freysing died during climb down from summit. Around 6000m he pulled back from the fixed rope, put both arms out, exhaled a deep breath and died. Both Sherpas went to him, but could not revive him. A helicopter retrieved his body via a long rope. The team said he had a history of heart problems, so it is possible that it was a heart attack.


expid: AMAD14313
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Tom Schindfessel
sponsor: Verticle Explorers to Ama Dablam
countries: Romania, USA
approach: Namche->Pangboche->Chhukung->Island Peak BC->Chhukung
bcdate: 2014-10-31
smtdate: 2014-11-02
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2014-11-05
othersmts: Summited Kwangde S Ridge by Bowyer and Capusan on 18th; summited Island Peak by all three
campsites: BC(31/10,4600m),C1(01/11,5400m),C2(02/11,5600m),Smt(02/11)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  Bowyer and Capusan started from C1 at 2 am of 2 November and got to the top at 7:30 am. They stayed on the summit about 40 minutes, then went down to C2 where they arrived at 10:30 am. Next day 3 November they went down to BC. About ten climbers summited on that day. 

  Schindfessel remained in BC.

  Capusan said that C2 was full of defecation, toilet paper, food cans and really disgusting.


expid: AMAD14314
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Markus Greussing
sponsor: Ama Dablam Austrian 2014
approach: Lukla->Namche->Thame->Lungding->Gokyo->Tangnag->Lukla
bcdate: 2014-10-25
smtdate: 2014-11-03
termdate: 2014-11-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to falling ice (dangerous to go up)
campsites: BC(25/10,4640m),C1(27/10,5700m),xxx(03/11,6300m)
agency: Himalayan Garden Treks
routememo:
  Ausserdorfer and Bitschnau went up to 6300m on 3 November. The falling ice accident occurred in the same morning resulting death of Dendi Sherpa. Then Ausserdorfer and Bitsolinau decided to stop further climbing due to the falling ice.

  While two members were up, Greussing and Tschofen were at C1 and after the falling ice accident they could not see any movement on the mountain. Greussing and Tschofen went up to 5900m, then they saw Ausserdorfer and Bitschnau coming down.


expid: AMAD14317
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Wilhelm Comploi
sponsor: Amical Alpin Ama Dablam Expedition 2014
countries: Austria, Italy
approach: Lukla
bcdate: 2014-10-02
smtdate: 2014-10-19
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2014-10-21
campsites: BC(02/10,4600m),ABC(06/10,5600m),C1(07/10,5800m),C2(18/10,6100m),C3(18/10,6300m),Smt(19/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  On 18 Oct Kassar, Nickels and Stefanon got to C2, but did not feel well and had general feeling of tiredness. They made the decision to abandon the climb. They proceeded down to C1 that day, while the remainder of the team slept at C2.

  A lot of people at C2 on 18 Oct, so Comploi decided to ascend to C3 and sleep due to lack of space.

  Remaining team left for the summit on 19 Oct joining with the German Amical Ama Dablam Expedition 2014. Fixing team left C2 at 4 am and both teams allowed time to pass for the fixing team to fix the ropes. They pushed for the summit around 6 am and got there shortly after the fixing team. Remained on the summit for around a half hour at which point around 10-12 people also reached the summit from other teams.

  Snow was loose at summit. Weather good with on and off wind. Snow bars were visible on return from summit.

  Accident: Hellmuth fell on 8 Oct when coming down from C1 to ABC and broke his ribs. Helicopter came on 11 Oct returning him to Kathmandu. He then returned to Germany and plans to return this season to try and climb again.


expid: AMAD14318
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Mark Allen
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Ama Dablam Expedition 2014
bcdate: 2014-10-23
smtdate: 2014-11-04
termdate: 2014-11-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6150m due to fatal accident of Swiss team's Sherpa
campsites: BC(23/10,4540m),ABC(26/10,5510m),C1(29/10,5800m),C2(04/11,6150m),xxx(04/11)
agency: Beyul Adventure
routememo:
  It was planned to have a C2.7 at 6150m and to make the team's summit bid from C1 on 3 November, move into C2.7 on the 4th and stay there on 4 November en route to the summit on the 5th and descend to C2 later that day.

  However C2.7 was never occupied. At 5:40 am on the 3rd, a Sherpa named Dendi, climbing with five Swiss, was fatally hit by falling ice which fell on the route from above C3 (6300m) and struck him in the face. Its blows fractured the pelvis of one of the members and injured others, but Dendi was the only fatality amongst the groups climbing that day.

  However, one death was all that was needed to put a sudden end to this and other Ama Dablam climbing efforts this season. Two of the IMG team's Sherpas, Chewang Lendu and Nuru Gyalzen, had reached this expedition's high point, 6150m at C2.7 on the 4th, at the same time, Allen, Field and Heinle and got to 6120m at the top of the grey tower, the high point for the members.

  All members and Sherpas were in BC by that afternoon, and all left BC on the 5th.

  Allen said he doesn't want to climb the SW Ridge as long as the Dablam is active; the whole section is unstable, and he judges it could stay that way above that section of the route for up to two years.

  David Medlar got sick with a respiratory infection on 20th October and got only to C1, then left the team. Joshua McDowell had several bouts of intestinal troubles and also went no higher than C1 before he left. Kara Stinson's high point was also C1; she was not capable of climbing high as she didn't have the necessary coordination and balance.

  Sherpas:
    Chewang Lendl, 19/4/80, Phortse, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X5, Lhotse X6, Manaslu X1
    Nuru Gyalzen, 18/8/73, Phortse, Everest X6, Manaslu X2


expid: AMAD14319
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: N Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Ama Dablam 2014
countries: Germany, Japan
bcdate: 2014-10-13
smtdate: 2014-11-02
termdate: 2014-11-04
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to dangerous avalanching
othersmts: Summited Island Peak
campsites: BC(13/10,4800m),C1(22/10,6100m),xxx(02/11,6500m)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  The North Ridge of Ama Dablam is technically difficult and exposed to avalanching, as this team discovered. It was very different from the North Ridge route Brice had scaled in autumn of 1980. He found it was now not suitable for commercial expeditions: he said that it is "too hard and too dangerous to go on that route for commercial climbs," he said.

  Before he realized the hazards for commercial teams, Brice organized this climb of the North Ridge. First, they went to Island Peak in two groups for acclimatization, and all summited it before occupying their Ama Dablam BC on 13 October.

  C1 at 6100m was not occupied until nine days later, on 22 October, because of the route's technical difficulty. No C2 was established because there was "no space to put it." The ridge was too narrow for a thousand feet. Therefore climbers would have to go for the top from C1, too far away.

  The climb was called off when they came to a place where the snow cover was waist-deep on a slope that had become 40-degrees steep, and just beyond that they would have to traverse an area of a 50-degree slope below a hanging glacier falling off the East Face, plus there were many crevasses which forced one to go over onto the West Face.

  The team's highest point was reached by four Sherpas at 6500m on 2 November; the two assistant leaders, Tamura and Woodward, got as high as 6300m on 30 October, but none of the clients reached that height (the two assistant leaders had been working with the Sherpas fixing the route).

  The climb was abandoned on 2 November: the overriding reason was the danger posed by avalanching. The team returned to Kathmandu by helicopter from Phortse on the 5th.

  Sherpas:
    Ngawang Tenzing, 20/11/69, Phortse
    Nima Tenzing, 20/4/91, Phortse
    Phurba Tashi, 24/5/71, Khumjung
    Urken Lendup, 10/2/93, Phortse


expid: AMAD14320
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Brian Warren
sponsor: Alpenglow Expedition to Ama Dablam 2014
approach: Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2014-10-17
smtdate: 2014-10-29
termdate: 2014-11-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to bad conditions that were too difficult for clients' abilities
campsites: BC(17/10,4600m),C1(23/10,5640m),xxx(29/10,6000m)
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  BC  17/10  4600m
  C1  23/10  5640m
  HPt 29/10  6000m (C2) by Warren, Hellstrom, Brooks.

  The team was on their summit attempt; however, the conditions on the mountain were not favorable and the clients had difficulties with the technical climbing. They reached C2 at 11 am on 29 Oct and decided to abandon the expedition. The team descended to BC the same day.

  Gallant reached C1 on 23 Oct.

  Left BC on 1 Nov by helicopter.

  Fixed rope:
    Warren patched up some sections between C1 and C2.


expid: AMAD14321
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Ragna Krueckels
sponsor: Amical Alpin Ama Dablam 2014
approach: Lukla
bcdate: 2014-10-04
smtdate: 2014-10-19
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2014-10-21
campsites: BC(04/10,4600m),ABC(05/10,5600m),C1(08/10,5800m),C2(17/10,6100m),Smt(19/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Krueckels, Roth and Schoepf went to C2 on 18 Oct. Roth and Schoepf assessed the situation and determined that with the weather conditions, time remaining and the amount of people at C2 they wouldn't be able to climb as fast as needed to reach the summit and decided to abandon their summit bid. They descended to C1 that day and snow started falling.

  Fei and Krueckels left for the summit on 19 Oct joining with the Amical Ama Dablam Expedition 2014. The rope-fixing team left C2 at 4 am and both teams allowed time to pass for the fixing team to fix the ropes. They pushed for the summit around 6 am and got there shortly after the fixing team. Remained on the summit for around a half hour at which point around 10-12 people also reached the summit from other teams.

  Snow was loose at summit. Weather good with on and off wind. Snow bars were visible on return from summit.

  Accident: Upon return from summit between C2 and C1, Fei was rapelling on the fixed rope and it broke. He fell, but was caught as he was also attached to a second rope. He only sustained cuts on his left arm.


expid: AMAD14322
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Peter Schatzl
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Ama Dablam Autumn 2014
countries: Germany, Switzerland
approach: Lukla
bcdate: 2014-10-16
smtdate: 2014-10-23
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2014-10-26
campsites: BC(16/10,4600m),ABC(18/10,5400m),C1(21/10,5700m),C2(22/10,6050m),Smt(23/10)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks (Himalayan Guides pmt)
routememo:
  Flade abandoned climb on 21 Oct due to problems with ankle and back after getting to C1.

  Jaeggi abandoned climb on 21 Oct due to diarrhea and headache at C1.

  Schardt abandoned climb on 21 Oct due to diarrhea as well as getting nervous after seeing helicopter recover dead body of a Russian climber from an accident [AMS] on the mountain.

  Schreyer abandoned climb on 21 Oct due to altitude headache at C1.

  After several members abandoned summit bid, Schatzl decided they didn't need all 3 climbing Sherpas for the summit. So on 22 Oct, Schatzl decided that only Lhakpa Sherpa would continue to summit so, Nima Sherpa and Namgyal Sherpa did not continue.

  Perfect day on summit. Wind was almost still, but clouds were coming up.

  Sherpas:
    Nima Sherpa (about 41 yrs old)
    Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa (about 25 yrs old; from near Thuling) 
    Namgyal Sherpa (about 23 yrs old; from Pangboche)


expid: BARU14301
peakid: BARU
year: 2014
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Stephan Wijnkamp
sponsor: DAG (Dutch, Austria, German) Baruntse Shishapangma Expedition
countries: Austria, Germany
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->Chhukung
bcdate: 2014-10-23
smtdate: 2014-11-05
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2014-11-07
othersmts: Summited Lobuche East on 21 Oct by all members
campsites: BC(23/10,5900m),C1(28/10,6100m),C2(30/10,6400m),Smt(05/11)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Near lake normal BC site
  C1 just across West Col from east side
  C2 near start of SE Ridge.

  The team went to Lobuche East to acclimatize and all summited it on 21 October. Then they went for their Baruntse BC. They intended to cross Amphu Lepcha pass, but there was too much snow in the pass, so from Chhukung they flew by helicopter to BC on the 23rd and rested there for a few days.

  C1 and C2 were placed at just over the West Col on its east side and near the foot of the SE Ridge, respectively. C1 was not pitched on the ridge because on the ridge there was unstable snow and very strong wind. The team returned to BC the same day as they pitched C2.

  They returned to the attack and slept here in C1 on 3 November. They were in C2 on the 4th, and on the 5th they went for the top. On the 5th the three members and Pemba Nuru left C2 at 2:00 am in clouds; the previous night there was strong wind, but it stopped blowing on the morning of the 5th. The SE Ridge was very steep and covered by snow, but they managed to climb it to the summit, where they arrived at 10:00 am in strong wind. The huge crevasse that had plagued expeditions in former years was not an obstacle now, and they descended all the way to BC the same day.

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Nuru, 27/11/80, Khumjung


expid: BARU14302
peakid: BARU
year: 2014
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Zac Zaharias
sponsor: Australian Baruntse Expedition
bcdate: 2014-10-05
smtdate: 2014-10-09
termdate: 2014-10-18
termnote: Abandoned due to deep snow conditions
campsites: BC(05/10,5454m),C1(09/10,6165m),xxx(09/10,6180m)
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  Team was on summit bid on 12 Oct and while at C1 that evening, high cirrus clouds were seen and they got news that a storm was coming in. On 13 Oct clouds covered 7500m to 8500m and the team had discussion about the coming storm. Zaharias could smell the moisture in the air and they decided it was better to go back down. On 13 Oct, they descended to BC and it began to snow.

  The team had planned to set out for summit bid again after returning to BC, but as they were waiting in BC during the evening of 13 Oct, they got a big dump of snow. Next morning, they assessed that it would take over a week for the snow to consolidate after the storm and they abandoned the climb as they didn't have enough time (they needed to return back to Australia on schedule)

  Team left non-essential gear at BC and it took 3 days to get over the pass due to deep snow. Before the storm, there were beautiful conditions and no snow at BC.


expid: CHOY14317
peakid: CHOY
year: 2014
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Hans Honold
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Cho Oyu Expedition 2014
countries: Austria, Mexico, Switzerland
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2014-09-06
smtdate: 2014-09-29
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2014-10-02
campsites: BC(06/09,4900m),ABC(09/09,5700m),C1(17/09,6300m),C2(18/09,7000m),C3(28/09,7400m),Smt(29/09)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  BC  06/09  4900m
  ABC 09/09  5700m
  C1  17/09  6300m
  C2  18/09  7000m
  C3  28/09  7400m
  Smt 29/09  by Daniel Gasser, Konrad Gasser, Contreras, Gonzalez del Castillo, 
             Honold, Spichiger, Kusang Sherpa, Lundup, Chhewang Lama at 7:30 am.

  Summit team and Loidl left C3 at 11:30 pm (NST) on 28 Sept. Weather was clear with 30 kmh winds. At about 2 am, Loidl reached 7600m, but he got too cold and turned back to C3. The rest of the team carried on and reached the summit at 7:30 am. They stayed for about half an hour on the summit.

  Contreras, Gonzalez and Spichiger descended to C2, where they arrived at 2 pm.  Honold descended to C1, where he arrived at 4 pm. Daniel Gasser, Konrad Gasser and Kusang Sherpa descended to ABC, where they arrived at 5 pm.

  Kraehenbuehl, Wirth, Kober, reached C2 on 18 Sept. Wirth had bronchitis, Kraehenbuehl did not acclimatize and Kober had stomach problems.

  On 30 Sept everyone was back at ABC.

  Fixed rope:	200m between C1 and C2.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

  Sherpas:
    Kusang Sherpa, 16/5/86, Ghunsa, Lelep
    Lundup, with Peter Schatzl on Cho Oyu in spring 2014
    Chhewang Lama, brother of Kancha Lama, Taksindu-2


expid: CHOY14319
peakid: CHOY
year: 2014
route1: NW side
nation: Austria
leaders: Dieter Obersteiner
sponsor: Two Brothers on Cho Oyu 2014
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2014-09-09
smtdate: 2014-10-01
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2014-10-04
campsites: BC(09/09,4900m),ABC(12/09,5700m),C1(19/09,6400m),C2(30/09,7200m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  09/09  4900m
  ABC 12/09  5700m
  C1  18/09  6400m
  C2  24/09  7200m
  Smt 01/10  by Dieter Obersteiner at 3 pm (NST)

  Dieter and Albert Obersteiner left C2 at about 3 am (NST). Weather was calm and clear, but very cold. When they reached 7600m, Albert Obersteiner felt very cold and decided to turn back. He descended to C2, where he stayed. Dieter Obersteiner carried on and reached the summit at 3 pm. He descended to C2, where he spent the night. On 2 Oct Albert and Dieter Obersteiner descended to ABC.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


expid: CHOY14320
peakid: CHOY
year: 2014
route1: NW side
nation: Iran
leaders: Mohammad Hassan Najarian
sponsor: Iranians to Cho Oyu 2014
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2014-09-10
smtdate: 2014-10-02
smttime: 0937
termdate: 2014-10-04
agency: Prestige Adventure
campsites:
  CBC(10/09,4900m),IC(11/09,5200m),ABC(12/09,5300m),C1(18/09,6300m),C2(20/09,7300m),C3(01/10,7600m),Smt(02/10)

routememo:
  Najarian, Ashgezari and Nuru Ongchu left C3 at 3 am on 01 October and got to the summit at 9:37 am. They stayed on summit for one hour and descended C3 at 3 pm. Next day 2 October they spent night at C2. On 3 October the team went down to ABC.

  High point for Arman Hadad Momeni was C3.

  Oxygen:
    Used by Ashgezari from C3->Smt->C3.
    Najarian and Nuru Ongchu did not use.


expid: CHOY14321
peakid: CHOY
year: 2014
route1: NW side
nation: Iran
leaders: Masoud Aghabalaei
sponsor: Azarkouh Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2014-09-18
smtdate: 2014-10-02
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2014-10-06
campsites: BC(18/09,4850m),IC(20/09,5300m),ABC(21/09,5700m),C1(25/09,6450m),C2(01/10,7200m),Smt(02/10)
agency: Adventure Extreme (Himalayan Ascent pmt)
routememo:
  On 1 October Aghabalaei, Mashouf, Rezal, Shabeh, Jangbu, Dawa Gyalzen, Ang Gelu and Ang Gyalzen reached C2 around 4:30 pm and they rested there for 5 hours. They started at 9:30 pm (NST) and reached the summit at 7:30 am on 2 October, stayed there for one hour, then back to C2 to sleep. Next day 3 October they went down to ABC. Ahead of the Aghabalaei team there were about 15 Chinese on the summit, Italians, Spanish and behind were 2 Iranians and Sherpas and other climbers.

  Kaffash's high point was 6200m below C1.

  Omidvar went up to 6900m; he had shoulder pain.


expid: CHOY14323
peakid: CHOY
year: 2014
route1: NW side
nation: Sweden
leaders: Joakin Ander
sponsor: Rolwaling Excursion Cho Oyu 2014
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2014-09-11
smtdate: 2014-10-02
smttime: 0616
termdate: 2014-10-06
campsites: BC(11/09,4900m),ABC(16/09,5700m),C1(19/09,6400m),C2(30/09,7100m),C3(01/10,7500m),Smt(02/10)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  When the team reached C2 Ander lost feeling on the right side of his face and hand and started the use of oxygen. The team slept at C2 and the next morning Ander abandoned his climb and returned to C1 with Tashi. Ander rested at C1 for half hour, then proceeded to ABC while Tashi met up with Ahlqvist and Chhiring Dorje at C3.

  Ahlqvist, Chhiring Dorje and Tashi only rested at C3 and did not sleep overnight there. They pushed for the summit leaving at 12:45 am on 2 Oct just after having breakfast. Early in the morning the weather was cold, but the conditions improved and as they came closer to the summit it was a perfect day (no clouds, no wind). The team spent a half hour on the summit, then descended all the way to C1 as Chhiring got notice that bad weather was coming.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used at C2, while sleeping at C2 and return to C1 by Ander
    Taken and used from C2 to summit to C1 by Ahlqvist
    Taken and used from C3 to summit to C3 by Chhiring Dorje and Tashi

  Sherpas:
    Chhiring Dorje Sherpa, 26/10/74, Beding
    Tashi Sherpa (about 35 yrs old)


expid: CHOY14324
peakid: CHOY
year: 2014
route1: NW side
nation: Nepal
leaders: Satish Man Pati
sponsor: Miuruo on Cho Oyu
countries: Japan
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2014-09-10
smtdate: 2014-09-29
smttime: 0840
termdate: 2014-10-04
accidents: Frostbite in right-hand index finger of Pati
agency: Nireka Adventures (Seven Summit Treks pmt)
campsites:
  CBC(10/09,4950m),IC(13/09,5300m),ABC(14/09,5700m),C1(19/09,6400m),C2(27/09,7200m),C3(28/09,7500m),Smt(29/09)

routememo:
  Pati, Kiyatake Miuruo and Pasang started their summit push from C3 at 00:45 am (NST) on 29 September. They got to the top at 8:40 am and stayed there for about 30 minutes. Then back to C3 where they arrived between 12:30-1 pm. They continued to C2 where they arrived at 4 pm and slept there. Next day 30 September, they went down to ABC. There were many climbers ahead of the Pati team. The summit day weather was windy.

  Oxygen: C3->summit->C3 by all three

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Bhote, 19/11/1985 (2042/8/4), Hatiya-3, Hungung, Makalu


expid: CHOY14325
peakid: CHOY
year: 2014
route1: NW side
nation: Venezuela
leaders: Alejandro Lamus
sponsor: Venezuelen on Cho Oyu 2014
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2014-09-15
smtdate: 2014-09-27
termdate: 2014-10-05
termnote: Abandoned due to Tshering Phinjo's altitude sickness
campsites: BC(15/09,4900m),ABC(16/09,5700m),C1(26/09,6400m),C2(27/09,01/10,7133m),xxx
accidents: Tshering Phinjo suffered from AMS
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  15/09  4900m
  ABC 16/09  5700m
  C1  26/09  6400m
  C2  01/10  7133m
  HPt 01/10  at 7133m between 5-5:30 pm (NST) by Boscan and Tshering Phinjo.

  All members reached Chinese Base Camp on 15 Sept and slept one night. Lamus felt altitude sickness and returned to Tingri on 16 Sept. Chonchol, Boscan and Tshering Phinjo went on to ABC on 16 Sept. Lamus returned to Base Camp on 18 Sept and then to ABC on 19 Sept. Boscan and Tshering Phinjo reached C1 for acclimatizing on 19 Sept and returned to ABC. Chonchol got altitude sickness at ABC on 20 Sept. All returned to BC, with Chonchol being carried part of the way, where she started to recover. From BC, a jeep took them all to Tingri. Next day, Boscan assessed that Chonchol could return to KTM without them and the trekking agency coordinated her return to KTM via overland. Upon arrival Chonchol went trekking in Annapurna area.

  Lamus, Boscan and Tshering Phinjo returned to ABC on 23 Sept. On 24 Sept, Boscan, Lamus and Tshering Phinjo reached C1 for acclimatizing and returned to ABC. 25 Sept all rested at ABC. Boscan proceeded to C1 on 26 Sept and stayed for 2 nights. On 27 Sept, Lamus and Tshering Phinjo reached C2 for acclimatizing and returned to C1. All returned to ABC on 28 Sept and rested until 29 Sept. 

  All pushed for the summit on 30 Sept from ABC, however Lamus got diarrhea and returned to ABC with Tshering Phinjo. Boscan and Tshering Phinjo reached C1 and stayed overnight. Boscan and Tshering Phinjo reached C2 1 Oct and spent the night while they waited for Lamus who reached C1 on 1 Oct. During the night of 1 Oct, Boscan heard Tsering Phinjo having trouble breathing and around 3 am Boscan noticed that Tsering Phinjo had a headache and vomited 3 times. On 2 Oct Boscan watched Tshering Phinjo vomit 2 more times and saw that his face was swollen. Boscan radioed Lamus that Tshering Phinjo was ill and they needed to do something. Lamus met Boscan and Tshering Phinjo at 6973m. Tshering Phinjo continued down to ABC and Lamus and Boscan stayed at C1 on 2 Oct. Lamus and Boscan returned to ABC on 3 Oct and all returned to BC on 5 Oct.

  Snow conditions were good, weather cold.

  It was snowing when bringing Chonchol out and also snowing when they reached C2 on 1 Oct which made it difficult to see and Boscan had to follow the fixed rope.

  Oxygen: Taken, not used.

  Sherpas:
    Tshering Phinjo Sherpa, 29/4/73, Khumjung, Khumbu


expid: CHOY14326
peakid: CHOY
year: 2014
route1: NW side
nation: Singapore
leaders: Muhammad Hilwan Idrus
sponsor: Aluminaid Team Singapore Everest 2014
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2014-09-09
smtdate: 2014-09-29
smttime: 0715
termdate: 2014-10-01
campsites: BC(09/09,4900m),ABC(11/09,5700m),C1(16/09,6400m),C2(27/09,7100m),C3(27/09,7450m),Smt(29/09)
agency: Ever Quest Expeditions
routememo:
  BC  09/09  4900m
  ABC 11/09  5700m
  C1  16/09  6400m
  C2  27/09  7100m
  C3  27/09  7450m
  Smt 29/09  by Ismail Latiff, Nur Yusrina Ya’akob, Muhamad Hilwan, Pasang Lama
             Bhote, Temba Bhote, Densa Bhote, Jamling Mhote at 9:30 am (CT)

  Summit team left C3 at about midnight. It was clear, but very cold. During the ascent, Ismail Latiff had problems with his eyesight as he was suffering from windburn. Otherwise straightforward climb. Team spent about 30 minutes on top and descended to C2, where they arrived at 7 pm. Latiff rested and his eyesight became better the following day when they descended to ABC.

  Suemas Yeo reached C2 during the acclimating rotation. On the summit push, he abandoned the climb at about 6500m due to a medical condition, which was causing pain that was unbearable to continue climb.

  Zulkifli Latiff did not leave ABC (5700m) as he was trying to recover from mild AMS, but never did.

  Accidents:

  Windburn by Latiff.

  Hilwan, suffered a minor stroke at ABC (based on doctor's diagnosis after back in Singapore) which was thought to be mild cerebral edema during the acclimatization. He descended to Tingri for a few days before the summit push and managed to reach the summit with the team. He suffered headaches throughout the way back to Singapore. In Singapore he was admited to hospital and was diagnosed to have had a minor stroke.

  Oxygen:
    From C3 to summit to C3 by Latiff, Nur Yusrina Ya'akub and Sherpas
    From C3 to summit to ABC by Hilwan.

  Sherpas:
    Densa Bhote, 30/10/1961, Hungung, Hatiya, Makalu-Barun
    Jamling Bhote, 28/12/1977, Hungung, Hatiya, Makalu-Brun
    Pasang Lama Bhote, 17/10/1984, Hungung, Hatiya, Makalu-Barun
    Temba Tshering Bhote, Hatiya-1, Makalu-Barun


expid: CHOY14328
peakid: CHOY
year: 2014
route1: NW side
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Steve Moffat
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Cho Oyu Expedition 2014
countries: Australia, Czech Republic, UK, USA
bcdate: 2014-09-04
smtdate: 2014-09-30
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2014-10-03
campsites: BC(04/09,4800m),ABC(08/09,5650m),C1(16/09,6400m),C1.5(21/09,6700m),C2(29/09,7100m),Smt(30/09)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Very nice weather this year with no major storm cycles through out the acclimatization phrase, only a couple of windy days when the jet stream moved south onto the Himalayas.

  Charles Mixon left due to business issues back home.

  Jan Bajer and Stewart Dennis suffered from non-altitude health issues.


expid: HIML14302
peakid: HIML
year: 2014
route1: W Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Lutz Feldmann
sponsor: Diamir Cho Oyu Expedition 2014
countries: Austria
approach: Besisahar->Jagat->Tarapani->Koto
termnote: Abandoned due to snow damage to approach route on the way to BC
agency: Multi Adventure
routememo:
  The expedition never reached their BC. Their approach march took them through Besisahar, Jagat and Tarapani to Koto. They had reached Tarapani on 13 October, and that night there was heavy rain that prevent their proceeding for a day. They managed to go on to Koto on the 15th, but next day they came to halt.

  They now found that landslides and snow avalanches had so badly damaged their approach march route that they could not continue much farther; they turned around and went back to Koto and continued their retreat. They got back to Kathmandu on 22 October, and then went for a 15-day trek in the Rolwaling just before leaving Nepal on 9 November.


expid: MAKA14301
peakid: MAKA
year: 2014
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Colin Scott
sponsor: British Tri-Service Makalu Southeast Ridge Expedition
approach: By air to Tumlingtar, by road to Num, trek to Tashigaon->Kongma
bcdate: 2014-08-20
smtdate: 2014-10-22
termdate: 2014-10-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to breakdown in Sherpa cooperation
campsites: BC(20/09,4800m),ABC(24/09,5800m),C1(26/09,6100m),C3(12/10,7200m),C4(22/10,7800m),xxx(22/10,7800m)
agency: Himalayan Ecstasy Treks
routememo:
  This was Scott's fourth expedition to attempt to climb Makalu's SE Ridge all the way from the start of the ridge to the summit, staying on the ridge all the way. If successful, this would be the first ascent of the entire length of this narrow, difficult ridge.

  They had good weather almost all the time they were on the mountain and were able to establish successively higher camps along the ridge in good order. There was one brief spell of bad weather with heavy snowfall, but mild winds; they retreated to BC on 8-9 October, but established C3 at 7200m on the 12th and proceeded to stock C3 for carries to their final camp, C4. But by now they had the help of only one Sherpa to fix the line to C4. Two members, Scott and Steel, plus Pechhumbe Sherpa, climbed to the site for C4 at 7800m on the 22nd and pitched a tent there, but returned to sleep in C3; Scott and Steel hoped to occupy C4 the next day.

  The plan was to occupy C4 and finally make their summit bid from there, but the tent was never occupied and the summit bid never launched. They were not defeated as so many teams on other mountains were by bad weather. What defeated them was the failure of their team of Makalu-area Sherpas to stay the course. Their Sherpas came from one family, but they were busy now with what appeared to be a squabble for power within the family involving Pechhumbe and his brother Nima Dorje, the sirdar. (Scott believed Nima Dorje was "not completely honest" with the other Sherpas about their individual earnings.)

  The brothers were no longer willing to go up to the highest camp with supplies -- to continue the climb. Scott and Steel wanted them to stay just one more day to stock C4, but they refused to do so. The weather forecast was for the period of good weather to end when fierce winds would blow up from the 25th making it impossible to mount another summit bid. It was now or never. It was never; the climb was abandoned on the 25th because of the "breakdown in Sherpa cooperation." The team left BC on the 29th.

  Oxygen was used from C3 to C4 site and back to C3 by members and Sherpa.

  The team's only casualty was a cousin of Pechhumbe, also named Nima Dorje, who twisted his knee on his way to C2 on 2 October. He left BC by helicopter to Kathmandu.

  Sherpas:
    Nima Dorje (sirdar), 17/3/81, Tashigaon, Makalu, Everest X3
    Pechhumbe, 22/9/87, Tashigaon, Makalu, Everest X3, Annapurna X1, Makalu X2, 
      Manaslu X1


expid: MANA14313
peakid: MANA
year: 2014
route1: NE Face
nation: Singapore
leaders: Swee Chiow Khoo
sponsor: Singaporean Manaslu 2014
approach: Samagaon by helicopter
bcdate: 2014-09-30
smtdate: 2014-10-06
termdate: 2014-10-07
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to deep snow and buried fixed ropes
campsites: BC(30/09,4800m),C1(02/10,5800m),C2(05/10,6400m),xxx(06/10,6800m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  30/09  4800m 	
  C1  02/10  5800m
  C2  05/10  6400m
  HPt 06/10  6800m (C3 site) by Khoo, Mingma Gyabu.

  Khoo and Mingma Gyabu left C1 at 9 am on 6 Oct and climbed all the way to C3. However, the snow was very deep and the rope that had been fixed by other teams was buried and iced up, so they could not retrieve it. When they reached C3 they decided to abandon the expedition due to the bad conditions. They descended to C2, where they arrived at 5 pm and stayed the night on 6 Oct.

  Dhiren Doshi reached C1 on 2 Sept; he abandoned the expedition due to his problems with acclimatizing.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C2 to high point to C2 by Khoo.

  Sherpa:
    Mingma Gyabu, Lelep-7, Taplejung, 16/05/1989


expid: MANA14314
peakid: MANA
year: 2014
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Yoshimasa Sasaki
sponsor: Sasaki Manaslu 2014
approach: Samagaon
bcdate: 2014-09-09
smtdate: 2014-09-24
termdate: 2014-09-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to not feeling well
campsites: BC(09/09,4700m),C1(15/09,5400m),C2(17/09,6300m),C4(24/09,7400m)
agency: Dreamers Destination Treks
routememo:
  BC  09/09  4700m
  C1  15/09  5400m
  C2  17/09  6300m
  C3   ---
  C4  24/09  7400m by Sasaki, Dawa Gyalje.

  Sasaki was part of the Chinese group led by Ma Li-Yamu. When Ma's team left for the summit on 26 Sept, Sasaki decided to stay at C4 as he was not feeling well. At about 8 am he and Dawa Gyalje left C4 to descend to BC.

  Just outside C4 at an altitude of about 7300m, Sasaki slipped on some blue ice and fell for about 25m. Dawa Gyalje fell with him (they were probably roped together), however, Dawa Gyalje did not hurt himself. After having tried to pull Sasaki up, Dawa Gyalje contacted Mingma Gyalze and Kaji, who were on their way to the summit with the Chinese team. The two Sherpas arrived at the scene at about 12 noon; however, Sasaki was dead when they got there.

  On 27 Sept the Dawa Gyalje, Kaji and Mingma Gyalje descended to BC to rest. On 28 Sept they ascended to C4 and brought Sasaki's body to C3, from where he was picked up by helicopter on 30 Sept.

  Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to C4 by Sasaki.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Gyalje (Dawa Gyalzen), 14/3/80, Beding

  From Ma team:
    Kaji (Pasang Kaji, Pasang Kami), 1963, Loding (Tamakhani), Solukhumbu
    Mingma Gyalje, 14/4/86, Beding


expid: MANA14315
peakid: MANA
year: 2014
route1: NE Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Cesare Cesa Bianchi
sponsor: Mountain Kingdom Manaslu
countries: Turkey
approach: Helicopter to Samagaon
bcdate: 2014-09-15
smtdate: 2014-10-02
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2014-10-04
campsites: BC(15/09,4850m),C1(18/09,5750m),C2(19/09,6400m),C3(30/09,6850m),C4(01/10,7400m),Smt(02/10)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  BC  15/09  4850m
  C1  18/09  5750m
  C2  19/09  6400m
  C3  30/09  6850m
  C4  01/10  7400m
  Smt 02/10  at 9 am by Ismet Inan, Tshiring Jangbu.

  Summit team and Ivano Bianchi left C4 at 2:20 am. Weather was clear, cold and no wind. Straightforward climb. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at 4 pm. The next day everyone was back at BC.

  Ivano Bianchi reached about 7600m on the summit push on 2 Oct. He had stomach problems for a while and could not carry on. He descended to C2, where he spent the night.

  Cesare Cesa Bianchi reached C1 on 18 Sept. He never intended to climb; he came as a non-climbing expedition leader.

  Spinelli reached C2 on 19 Sept. He had slight frostbite on his right foot and did not carry on. He stayed at BC for the rest of the expedition.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

  Sherpas:
    Tshiring Jangbu, 1/8/77, Rakshi Kharka, Lokhim, Solukhumbu


expid: MANA14316
peakid: MANA
year: 2014
route1: NE Face
nation: UK
leaders: Phil Crampton
sponsor: Altitude Junkies Manaslu Expedition 2014
countries: Australia, Canada, Denmark, Germany, Netherlands, Switzerland
bcdate: 2014-08-31
smtdate: 2014-09-25
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2014-09-26
campsites: BC(31/08,02/09,4800m),C1(06/09,5700m),C2(13/09,6400m),C3(23/09,6800m),C4(29/09,7400m),Smt(25/09)
agency: Expedition Himalaya
routememo:
  Summit team left C4 for the top at time am on 25 September. They were seven members and seven Sherpas: Brands, Crampton, Poldersaart, Seagram, Seidensticker, Sindbaek and Wild, with Sherpas Sange, Kami Nuru, Karma Gelgen, Pasang Gombu, Pasang Wangchu, Pemba Chhiri and Tarke.

  At 7800m, Poldersaart decided to turn back. He said he was not feeling well, Crampton thought his problem was probably more psychological than physical. Karma Gelgen retreated with him down to BC that day.

  The others continued on to the top, where they arrived between 8:30 and 9:00 am. Brands, Seagram, Sindbaek and Wild stopped in C2 for the night, while all the others descended all the way to BC and got there at 5:00 pm.

  Wright was not in the summit party: he had reached C3 on the 23rd, but went no higher because of an extremely bad cough that prevented him from getting any sleep.  On the 24th he returned to BC [with Dorje].

  Oxygen was by all members and Sherpas in the summit party in and from C4 to their high points and back to C3.

  Sherpas:
    Dorje Sherpa, May/June 1965 (2022), Phakding, Chaunrikharka-5
    Kami Nuru Sherpa, 25/8/85 (10/5/2042), Chaurikharka village
    Pasang Ongchu Sherpa, 25/4/87 (12/1/2044), Bung-9
    Pasang Gombu Sherpa, 25/11/69 (8/10/2026), Kurima, Lokhim-9
    Pemba Chhiri Sherpa, 31/1/72 (17/10/2028), Pawai-2
    Tarke Sherpa, 1967 (2024), Kurima, Lokhim-9
    Karma Gelgen Sherpa, 21/1/78 (8/10/2034), Taksindu-7


expid: MANA14317
peakid: MANA
year: 2014
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Toshiki Kobayashi
sponsor: Japanese Manaslu Expedition 2014
approach: Samagaon
bcdate: 2014-09-12
smtdate: 2014-09-26
termdate: 2014-10-01
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to Kobayashi's frozen fingers
campsites: BC(12/09,4700m),C1(17/09,5500m),C2(18/09,6300m),C3(25/09,6800m),C4(26/09,7600m),xxx(26/09)
agency: Himalayan Treasure
routememo:
  Members felt strong and healty for summit. At C4, Mr. Kobayashi realized his fingers were frozen because he forgot to change his gloves and team decided to abandon climb.


expid: PK4114301
peakid: PK41
year: 2014
route1: N Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Koo Eun-Soo
sponsor: Korean Peak 41 Expedition 2014
approach: Lukla->Chutanga->Cheterwa->Kote->Tangnag->Khare->Kongmadigma
bcdate: 2014-09-30
smtdate: 2014-10-11
termdate: 2014-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6140m due to snowfall and wind
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal
campsites:
  BC(30/09,5200m),Biv1(03/10,5400m),Biv2(05/10,5800m),Biv3(07/10,6000m),Biv4(09/10,5800m),xxx(11/10,6140m)

routememo:
  The team of four alpinists left BC on 3 October and bivouacked at 5400m. They had their second biv on 5 October at 5800m and subsequently at 6000m on 7th and at 6100m on the 9th. Their summit target day was 12 October. Accordingly, they got to 6140m on 11 October and were stuck there due to snowfall and wind. They were able to get down to BC on 15 October.


expid: PUTH14301
peakid: PUTH
year: 2014
route1: NE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Malcolm Haskins
sponsor: Jagged Globe Putha Hiunchuli Expedition 2014
countries: Brazil, Switzerland, UK
approach: Jupal->Yak Kharka
bcdate: 2014-10-21
smtdate: 2014-10-21
termdate: 2014-10-24
termnote: Abandoned due to deep snowfall from Cyclone Hudhud
campsites: BC(21/10,4950),xxx
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  This expedition was abandoned due to Cyclone Hudhud and the team never reached base camp. However, Lizzy Hawker, who is a well-known ultra-runner, decided on 21 Oct in the afternoon to go for a run. She reached the base camp site and returned to Yak Kharka immediately.

  The highest point for the rest of the group was Yak Kharka.

  5 Sherpas were hired to go above BC.
    Thundu Sherpa, Beding, 18/2/78 [Ministry gives 7/2/78, ID 21341]
    Lila Bdr Basnet, Lamabagar-3, 30/4/83  [ID 22719/24]
    Tamtin Sherpa, Beding, 20/12/74 [ID 55/1789]
    Pemba Chhongbi Sherpa, Kharikhola, 29/6/85 [ID 5413/128]
    Ngima Nurbu Sherpa, 20/2/80, Thami [ID 73]


expid: PUTH14302
peakid: PUTH
year: 2014
route1: NE side
nation: Germany
leaders: Eckhard Schloeder
sponsor: Amical Alpin Putha Hiunchuli Expedition 2014
countries: Austria, Switzerland
approach: Flight to Juphal
bcdate: 2014-10-05
smtdate: 2014-10-10
termdate: 2014-10-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to massive storm
campsites: BC(05/10,4900m),C1(09/10,5400m),C2(10/10,6200m),xxx(10-11/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  On 11 Oct, Schloeder developed bad cough at C1 and became weaker and weaker. He climbed down and went to closest village. Then returned to KTM on 16 Oct, where he waited for the team to return.

  Team got information on 11 Oct that a storm was coming [Cyclone Hudhud]. On 13 Oct, BC got 5 feet of snow. Team decided to abandon climb due to snow conditions and avalanche risk. Chuldim Sherpa went up to C1 to make trail, but snow was above his waist. Conditions were too cold to allow the snow to consolidate enough to allow climb to continue.

  Team left gear at C2 as well as equipment and staff at BC as it was too risky for them to leave BC and difficult to remove equipment as no porters or yaks could get above 4000m.

  Before the storm, conditions were good on the mountain. Little bit windy, perfect snow and good visibility.


expid: TAWO14301
peakid: TAWO
year: 2014
route1: A ridge on N Face
nation: Portugal
leaders: Joao Garcia
sponsor: Portuguese Tawoche Expedition 2014
countries: Spain
bcdate: 2014-10-30
smtdate: 2014-10-31
termdate: 2014-11-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to difficult route and very tired
campsites: BC(30/10,4800m),xxx(31/10,6100m)
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  The two members team began their attempt on the mountain by leaving BC at 4:10 am on 31 October to scale the 80-degree wall of ice that was the North Face. At 6:00 pm as it was getting dark they reached the 6100m high col where the face met the summit ridge and decided to go down rather than bivouac there. They rappelled from 5400m down the face to 5200m and walked from there to BC, which they reached at 11:00 pm. They were very tired and dehydrated.

  They slept at BC until 9:00 am and left it at 12:00 noon on 1 November.


expid: TENR14301
peakid: TENR
year: 2014
route1: W Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Yasuhiro Hanatani
sponsor: Tengi Ragi Tau Climbing Team 2014
approach: Thami->Parchamo BC
bcdate: 2014-11-07
smtdate: 2014-11-07
termdate: 2014-11-08
termnote: Abandoned at 4230m due to too much snow on W Face
campsites: BC(07/11,4230m),xxx
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Climbers returning said that the weather above BC was not favorable as there had been snowfall and the path was slippery.

  One member (Suzuki) suffered from rectal bleeding.

  Hired:
    Ang Dawa Tamang, Kerung-5, Solu, 22/6/70


expid: DHA114111
peakid: DHA1
year: 2014
route1: NE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Cha Jin-Chol
sponsor: 2014 Kyungil University Alpine Club Dhaulagiri Expedition
approach: Pokhara-Jomsom by air, Marpha->Yak Khola->Dhampus BC->Hidden valley
bcdate: 2014-05-13
smtdate: 2014-05-18
termdate: 2014-05-21
campsites: BC(13/05,4700m),C1(15/05,6200m),C2(16/05,6800m),C3(17/05,7200m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal
routememo:
  Cha, Bae and Karma Gyaljen left C3 at 3 am on 18 May. They got to the top at 2:45 pm and stayed on summit for one hour. The team descended C3 at 7 pm. Next day 19 May started descending at 9 am and reached BC at 5 pm.

  Lee stayed in BC.

  Fixed rope: 200m on rock band, used NEKO Korean expedition rope up to 7100m.

  Oxygen: Used by all above 7600m, not continuous, but in and out (2 bottles).


expid: DHA114301
peakid: DHA1
year: 2014
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Slovakia
leaders: Jan Matlak
sponsor: Slovak Mountaineering Expedition Dhaulagiri 2014
countries: Czech Republic
bcdate: 2014-09-18
smtdate: 2014-10-09
termdate: 2014-10-16
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to fatal avalanche at BC
campsites: BC(18/09,4750m),C1(03/10,5850m),C2(09/10,6600m),xxx
agency: Sherpa Adventure Travel
routememo:
  (By Raheel Adnan/Update added at the end of story at 9 AM). The severe weather stimulated by cyclone Hudhud recedes in Nepal, leaving a catastrophe of great magnitude behind. Blizzard and avalanches killed several trekkers, climbers and natives in Western Region, whereas dozens are still missing. Rescue operation continues for retrieval of bodies and search and evacuation of missing persons.

  An enormous avalanche hit Dhaulagiri BC on Tuesday, where the Slovak climbers were waiting for improvement in weather to resume the climb. They had already established C1 and C2 on the mountain. It's reported that two Slovaks and three Nepalese have gone missing after the avalanche. Other stranded members of the expedition (7 Slovaks and 1 Czech) have been evacuated to Pokhara. Exact details of the accident are still vague.

  Slovakian's website expedition.sk wrote on Wednesday night:

  "We have new information directly from Sonam Sherpa, from the agency that provided services to our expedition in Nepal. Sonam unfortunately confirmed that Jan Matlak and Vladimir Svancar along with three Nepalese helpers remain missing after the avalanche. Other members of the expedition were flown to Pokhara by helicopter. Three local Sherpa unsuccessfully searched for them today (Wednesday). Tomorrow (Thursday), two members of expedition will also join them."

  Missing Nepalese have been identified as Bhoj Kumar Rai of Mauling VDC-5, Okhaldhunga; Dorje Sherpa of Jubing VDC-2, and Gopal Rai of Gudin VDC-8, Solukhumbu district.

  Last dispatch from Slovakians read, "Snowing, snowing, still snowing .... still waiting in BC for better weather :( We all believe that the weather will improve."

  Jan Matlak is a climbing and ski-mountaineering instructor. He led several expeditions to Tatra, Alps, Caucasus and Pamir. In Himalayas, he has attempted Shishapangma and Annapurna. Vladimir Svancar is also a seasoned mountaineering professional with multiple winter and summer ascents in Tatra, Alps and Pamir.

  The hope of finding either of five missing persons (Jan Matlak, Vladimir Svancar, Bhoj Kumar Rai, Dorje Sherpa and Gopal Rai) alive didn't materialize. Expedition.sk reports that the bodies of Slovak climbers and the BC staff were found at Dhaulagiri BC, today. It appears that only Jan Matlak and Vladimir Svancar were inside their tent when avalanche came down. Other members of the expedition were in "social" tent which avalanche probably didn't hit with full force.


expid: AMAD14329
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: David Morton
sponsor: Morton Ama Dablam Expedition 2014
approach: Ktm->Lukla->Renjo La->BC
bcdate: 2014-10-30
smtdate: 2014-11-03
termdate: 2014-11-07
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to bad conditions above C2
campsites: BC(30/10,4575),C1(02/11,5700m),xxx(03/11,6100m)
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  David Morton - 10 March 2015

  It was a very short trip with C2 as the high point for two of us. On November 3rd, as we went to C2 as an acclimation day, Dendi Sherpa was killed. We returned to BC as per planned itinerary that day. Once back at BC, we discussed a reasonable approach may be to return high on the mountain to assess conditions first-hand above C3. It was decided by the members, in part from discussions at BC with others, that the reasonable decision would be to abandon our expedition.

  Oct 22 - Flew to Lukla
  Oct 30 - Arrive Ama Dablam BC 4575m (via Renjo La)
  Nov 02 - BC to C1, overnight
  Nov 03 - C1 to C2, returned to BC (Darrell Kinder decided in the morning that it was "too much" for him so he returned to BC in the morning with a Sherpa, his high point C1). Same day Wayne Hickey and I reached our high point of C2, 6100m.
  Nov 05 - brought loads from C1 to BC
  Nov 07 - departed BC
  Nov 09 - Flew to KTM

  Two Sherpas went to C1 with us: Panuru Sherpa from Phortse as the sirdar went to C1 and returned from C1 with Darrell Kinder. Danuru Sherpa from Phortse (Panuru’s younger brother) went to C2 with myself and Wayne Hickey.


expid: AMAD14330
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Klemen Gricar
sponsor: Jagged Globe Ama Dablam Expedition 2014
countries: Brazil, Canada, Slovenia
bcdate: 2014-11-10
smtdate: 2014-11-16
termdate: 2014-11-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to Dablam serac collapse
campsites: BC(10/11,4500m),ABC(14/11,5300m),C1(14/11,5700m),C2(15/11,5900m),C3(16/11,6300m),xxx(16/11,6300m)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  C3 was pitched at 6300m on 16 November and was occupied by the summit team, who had set out for the top from C2 (5900m) that morning at 3:00 am. They were three members and three Sherpas: Dean Carriere (Canadian), Mark Joyce (UK), Simon Thomasson (UK), Pema Chhiring Sherpa, Rakesh Tamang and Tschering Sherpa. They reached C3 at 9 am.

  Progress then came to an abrupt halt when the Sherpas who pitched had C3 raised the alarm about the danger from the Dablam serac overhead which had developed a large crack and threatened to break off. The summit team turned around and retreated; all expedition members and Sherpas later that day were in C1 -- or were below it involved in the emergency evacuation of Thomasson, who was seriously ill with pulmonary edema.

  Thomasson survived and travelled by helicopter from BC to Kathmandu on the 17th. The remaining members met on the 18th and agreed they would not attempt to reach the summit because of the dangerous condition of the Dablam serac.

  High points reached by the climbers:

  6300m (C3) - Joyce, Carriere, Thomasson, Pemba Chhiring, Rakesh and Tschering Pemba.

  5900m (C2) - Jones, Butcher, McKinght, Holding and Gricar.

  5800m - Cookston and De Almeida.

  The remaining members left BC on the 19th and the 22nd to trek to Lukla and fly to Kathmandu.

  Sherpas:
    Pema Chhiring Sherpa
    Rakesh Tamang
    Tschering Pemba Sherpa


expid: AMAD14331
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Alyssa Azar
sponsor: Azar Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2014-10-21
smtdate: 2014-10-28
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2014-10-30
campsites: BC(21/10,4650m),C1(22/10,5700m),C2(27/10,6100m),Smt(28/10)
agency: Dream Himalaya Adventures
routememo:
  Azar and Ang Kami left C2 at 1 am on 28 October. They got to the summit 2 pm, back to C2 around (midnight) 12 pm. They spent the night at C2. Next day went down to BC.

  Sherpa:
    Ang Kami Sherpa, (2039/5/5) 21/8/82, Gudel-5


expid: AMAD14332
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Mieczyslaw Kwapich
sponsor: Polish Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Dingboche->Island Peak BC->Pangboche
bcdate: 2014-11-16
smtdate: 2014-11-22
smttime: 1145
termdate: 2014-11-24
othersmts: Summited Island Peak by all members and Sherpa on 13 Nov
campsites: BC(16/11,4600m),C1(19/11,5800m),C2(20/11,6100m),Smt(22/11)
agency: Lhakpa Chhiri (Himalayan Guides pmt)
routememo:
  Ms. Zofia Bachleda started at 4:30 am from C2 on 22 November and reached summit at 11:45 am. She stayed at the summit about 15 minutes, returned to C2 at 3 pm and spent night there. Next day went down to BC.

  Zwierzanski and Szymaniak went up to 6300m on 21 November. They were slow and tired.

  Dolinska went up to 5800m; she was exhausted.

  Mieczyslaw Kwapich remained at BC.

  Lhakpa Chhiri Sherpa (Sonam Gyalzen) went up to C2.


expid: NPHU14301
peakid: NPHU
year: 2014
route1: W Face
nation: UK
leaders: Brian Jackson
sponsor: Unclimbed Peak Expedition 2014
ascent1: 1st official
approach: Syanga->Marshyangdi
bcdate: 2014-11-19
smtdate: 2014-11-22
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2014-11-23
campsites: BC(19/11,5230m),Smt(22/11)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  The team went to the so-called hidden valleys or lost valleys where the villages of Naar and Phu are located north and northeast of Pisang Peak, and west of Kanguru in the Annapurna Conservation Area. All six members and three Nepalese helpers made the first ascent of 5921m high Mt. Narphu.

  They left BC at 5230m on 22 November at 3 am, avoided a hanging glacier via the steep West Face, were on the summit 12 hours later, and were back in BC at 7:30 pm. via the same route. They fixed 150m of rope from 100m to 50m below the top on the steepest section (45 to 70 degrees) in 85 km/hr wind on summit day.

  Nepalese assistants:  
    Mingmar Dorje Sherpa, 28/6/81 (14/3/2038), Gudel, Solu
    Pasang Sherpa, 12/8/75 (27/4/2032), Jiri
    Shikhar Pandey, 15/4/90 (2/1/2047), Kathmandu, son of Bikram Pandey, Head of
      Himalaya Expeditions trekking agency


expid: HIML14303
peakid: HIML
year: 2014
route1: W Ridge from SW
nation: Italy
leaders: Christian Denicolo
sponsor: International Himlung Expedition
countries: Denmark, UK
approach: Dharapani->Phu
bcdate: 2014-10-18
smtdate: 2014-10-26
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2014-10-30
campsites: BC(18/10,4500m),C1(22/10,5100m),C2(23/10,5800m),C3(25/10,6100m),Smt(26/10)
agency: Dreamers Destination Treks (Himal Exped pmt)
routememo:
  C1 on West Ridge
  C2 at top of icefall below West Ridge
  C3 just below ridge on side of a col.

  The team chose to climb Himlung from the southwest via a route they said had been established only three years earlier. They pitched their BC on 18 October at 4500m on the south side of the Pangi Glacier. (There was too much snow on the north side). They crossed the glacier to the south side of the West Ridge, a steep climb. On 22 October they made C1 on the West Ridge. The next day they placed C2 at the top of an icefall below the West Ridge, and C3 was made just below the West Ridge on the south side of a col.

  Finally on 26 October, the five members and their five Sherpas went for the top from C3 at 2:20 am. At 6300m Vardy turned back because he feared that his right foot, which had previously been frostbitten, was going to be affected again; he went back to C3 with one of the Sherpas, Bir Kazi, and next day descended to C1.

  The remaining four members and four Sherpas continued up. The leader, Christian Denicolo, was the first to reach the summit at 1:30 pm, with Dawa Gyalje Sherpa; the rest of the team got to the top at 2:30 pm.

  They were slow in their ascent, they explained, because it was a new route and there were no other climbers there, so they had to find the way and the do all the rope fixing themselves. The ridge was blue ice all the way; they had to fix 1000m on the ridge. (They did not have that much rope with them, so they fixed 600m and brought up 400m of rope they had fixed and reused it). From the top, they descended all the way to BC the same day; it was 8:00 pm when they reached BC.

  None of the climbers were injured, but Denicolo did fall into a crevasse while on his way to the summit. However, he was roped to another climber; he didn't fall far and was not injured.

  Oxygen was used by two members only. Niebur used it from 6500m to 6700m because he got tired on his way to the summit, and James Glazebrook used it for his last 15 minutes below the top.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Gele
    Bir Kazi
    Dakipa
    Dawa Gyalje
    Nima Gyalje


expid: TOBS14301
peakid: TOBS
year: 2014
route1: S Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Tom Richardson, Adrian Summers
sponsor: KE Adventure Tobsar Peak
countries: Australia, France, USA
approach: Arughat->Buri Gandaki->Tsum Valley->Chho Syong
bcdate: 2014-11-21
smtdate: 2014-11-30
termnote: Abandoned at 4860m due to route's difficulty
campsites: BC(21/11,4200m),xxx(30/11,4860m)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  KE Adventure Travel, a British outdoor adventure company, decided to offer their clients the opportunity to climb Tobsar, a seldom-attempted mountain near the northern reaches of the Buri Gandaki river northwest of the Ganesh Himal group. So many people signed up that it was necessary to divide them into two teams leaving Kathmandu five days apart.

  However KE Adventure had not investigated the mountain. The two teams, following the same approach route up the Buri Gandaki and the same climbing route up the South Ridge, each encountered an icefall at about 4800m. They found it was too difficult technically for these clients. Summers said that professional climbers with some strong Sherpas could have climbed the icefall successfully, but not this group.

  Group A led by Thomas Richardson turned back at 4600m on 21 November and Group B led by Adrian Summers gave up at 4860m on 30 November.

  Group A left Kathmandu on 12 November by bus to Arughat Bazar and then trekked northward for 10 days to Mu Gompa following the Buri Gandaki, turned northeast into Tsum Valley to Lokpa, Rainjam, Lamagaon, Nile, and to BC at Chho Syong at 4200m, where they arrived on 21 November. They never made high camp, which they had planned for 5000m, fixed no rope, and retraced their steps to Kathmandu, where they arrived on 29 November.

  Group B left Kathmandu on 17 November, followed the same approach route, arrived at the same BC on 23 November, also fixed no rope and made no higher camps. They returned to Kathmandu on 6 December.

  The two groups shared the same three climbing Sherpas. They took no oxygen with them and had no health problems.


expid: AMAD14324
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kang Duk-Moon
sponsor: South Korean Ama Dablam Autumn 2014
approach: Phakding->Namche->Robusasa->Pangboche
bcdate: 2014-10-31
smtdate: 2014-11-14
smttime: 1055
termdate: 2014-11-15
campsites: BC(31/10,4000m),C1(03/11,5800m),C2(12/11,6100m),Smt(14/11)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  Kang, Pasang Namgyal and Fur Gyaljen left C2 at 4:10 am towards the summit. They reached the top at 10:55 am and stayed there 30 minutes, then descended to C2 at 2 pm, rested there for 30 minutes and continued to BC where they arrived at 8 pm. Summit day weather was good, a bit windy. Ahead of them were one man and a woman, one Polish; after them were two Polish. 

  Rest of the members Choi, Hwang, Kim, Park and Shin spent night at C1 only. C2 is stinky.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Namgyal, (10/8/2029) 25/11/72, Khumjung-3, Cho Oyu, Everest X3, 
      Lhotse Shar, Yalung Kang
    Fur Gyaljen, Namche-9, (2027) 1970


expid: AMAD14325
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Croatia
leaders: Matija Rovsnik
sponsor: Ama Dablam Autumn 2014 Expedition
countries: Slovenia
approach: Lukla->Namche->Tengboche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2014-11-03
smtdate: 2014-11-14
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2014-11-17
campsites: BC(03/11,4600m),ABC(05/11,5200m),C1(06/11,5700m),C2(13/11,6000m),Smt(14/11)
agency: Trekking Mart (Snowy Horizon pmt)
routememo:
  Rovsnik and Mingma started their summit push at 7 am from C2 on 17 November and reached the top at 1 pm. They stayed on summit about 10 minutes, then went down to C2 at 4 pm. Next day descended to BC. Two Polish climbers also summited on that day. 

  Cubrilo stopped at C2 as he was not insured for the climb and he did not want to take any risk.

  Sherpa:
    Mingma Sherpa


expid: AMAD14326
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Richard Rapoport
sponsor: American Ama Dablam Autumn 2014
approach: Lukla->Namche->Tengboche->Dingboche->Island Peak BC->Pangboche
bcdate: 2014-11-17
smtdate: 2014-11-19
termdate: 2014-11-21
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to lack of motivation
othersmts: Summited Island Peak by Rapoport with Tamding on 13 Nov
campsites: BC(17/11,4600m),C1(18/11,5800m),xxx(19/11,5800m)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion (Himalayan Guides pmt)
routememo:
  Rapoport and Tamding went to C1 and spent one night, then gave up climbing.

  Sherpa:
    Tamding Sherpa, (5/9/2031) 20/12/1974, Gaurishankar-1


expid: AMAD14327
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Tomasz Kobielski
sponsor: Polish-German Ama Dablam Autumn 2014
countries: Germany
approach: Lukla->Namche->Dingboche->Gorakshep->Everest BC->Kalapattar->Pangboche
bcdate: 2014-11-08
smtdate: 2014-11-15
smttime: 1345
termdate: 2014-11-17
othersmts: Summited Island Peak on 4 Nov by all three members
campsites: BC(08/11,4550m),ABC(12/11,5400m),C1(13/11,5800m),Smt(15/11)
achievment: Psujek's right leg hit by rock while going down from C1 that resulted a big wound (unable to walk)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  Kobielski and Psujek left C2 at 1:30 am for summit. Psujek turned around from 6250m because he was slow. Kobielski reached top at 1:45 pm. He stayed on summit about 10 minutes, then went down to C1 where he arrived at 8 pm. Next day descended BC.

  Stoba went up to 5200m. She suffered from cough.


expid: EVER14167
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Richard Malblanc
sponsor: French Everest 2014
bcdate: 2014-04-16
smtdate: 2014-05-25
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2014-05-29
campsites: BC(16/04,5100m),ABC(20/04,6400m),C1(27/04,7100m),C2(23/05,7800m),C3(24/05,8300m),Smt(25/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides (Seven Summit Treks pmt)
routememo:
  Richard Malblanc - 21 Feb 2015

  Malblanc climbed with the Seven Summit Treks commercial group that included Gregory Attard, Matthew Xerri, Douglas Barbaro Sant, Raphael Fenech Adami (all Maltese), Olivier Ruembelli (Swiss), Axel Cezar (Brazilian) and Satoshi Tamura (Japanese).


expid: EVER14168
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Satoshi Tamura
sponsor: Japanese Everest 2014
bcdate: 2014-04-17
smtdate: 2014-05-23
termdate: 2014-05-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to exhaustion
campsites: BC(17/04,5100m),ABC(20/04,6400m),C1(27/04,7100m),C2(23/05,7800m),xxx
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Satoshi climbed with the Seven Summit Treks commercial group that included Gregory Attard, Matthew Xerri, Douglas Barbaro Sant, Raphael Fenech Adami (all Maltese), Olivier Ruembelli (Swiss), Axel Cezar (Brazilian) and Richard Malblanc (French).


expid: PLNG06301
peakid: PLNG
year: 2006
route1: SW Face (up); W Ridge (down)
nation: Spain
leaders: Jordi Tosas
sponsor: Campo de Borja Cho Oyu 2006
bcdate: 2006-09-11
smtdate: 2006-09-19
termdate: 2006-10-07
othersmts: Attempted Cho Oyu (CHOY-063-48)
campsites: BC(11/09),Smt(19/09)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Tosas climbed a new route (SW Face) on Palung Ri on 19 Sept. It was difficult 55-60 degrees. He soloed it in 8 hours (ABC->top->ABC). He descended via West Ridge.


expid: PANN13301
peakid: PANN
year: 2013
route1: NE Face (direct)
nation: USA
leaders: Chris Wright
sponsor: Khumbu Express Expedition 2013
ascent1: 1st
bcdate: 2013-10-17
smtdate: 2013-11-01
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2013-11-06
othersmts: Summited Lunag West (LUNW-133-01)
campsites: BC(17/10,5100m),Smt(01/11)
agency: Climb High Himalaya
primid: LUNW13301
routememo:
  Wright and Adamson climbed the NE Face of nearby point 6589m on the Schneider Khumbu map [aka Pangbuk North 6478m] with one bivouac on the 31st at 6280m. They were on the top of this unnamed peak at 4:00 pm on 1 November and returned to their bivouac for another night. They reached ABC at 2:00 pm on the 2nd, returned to BC on the 3rd and left it and the Lunags on the 6th.


expid: PANN09301
peakid: PANN
year: 2009
route1: NE Face (via 6150m col)
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Stephane Schaffter
sponsor: Mountain Adventure Jobo Rinjang
countries: France, Nepal, Pakistan
bcdate: 2009-09-26
smtdate: 2009-10-22
smttime: 1410
termdate: 2009-10-25
campsites: BC(26/09,5128m),xxx(22/10,6150m)
agency: Tenzing Asian Holidays
primid: JOBO09301
routememo:
  The team now focused on an ascent of Pt 6589m [6478m on HMG-Finn map], which is south-southwest of the Lunag peaks, southwest of Jobo Rinjang's Pt 6777m and west-northwest of BC. For this climb, they pitched a new C1 south of the old C1 on the 17th. From the 17th to the 19th, they fixed 800m rope on this mountain also. They climbed 500m up a steep (60 degrees) snow couloir, then a 120-meters-high ice wall 80-degrees steep, next 80-85 degrees bare rock, and finally a snow ridge with cornices.

  On 22 October the summit party left their new C1 at 2:00 am. They were Carrard, Haeni, Schaffter, Vallot and the two Sherpas. When they reached 6150m, it was very cold and the members decided to move quickly in alpine style, leaving the Sherpas to go back to BC while the members continued to the summit, where they arrived at 2:10 pm. Schaffter went down to C1 while the three other members descended to BC; Schaffter was in BC the next day after the others had joined him at C1 to retrieve the camp's gear. 

  [This ascent is disputed: see AAJ 88:64-71 (2014) and PANN-173-01.]

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Sherpa, 7/2/78 (25/10/2034), Tashigaon, Makalu-5, no 8000ers
    Krishna Bahadur Tamang, 26/10/69 (10/6/2026) according to his citizenship
      certificate, Kanku, Everest X4


expid: LHOT14301
peakid: LHOT
year: 2014
route1: S Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Hong Sung-Taek
sponsor: Korean Lhotse South Face Expedition 2014 (Pioneer Korean Venture Rte)
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pheriche->Chhukung
bcdate: 2014-09-02
smtdate: 2014-11-02
termdate: 2014-11-07
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to end of climbing period, bad weather, and lack of team strength
campsites: BC(02/09,5200m),ABC(06/09,5250m),C1(26/09,5800m),C2(23/10,7300m),C3(02/11,7900m),xxx
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal
routememo:
  Hong and Sanu Sherpa went up to 7900m and had to stop due to running out of time.

  Strong avalanches between C1 and C2 in September that made climbing difficult. Everyday snow fell between 26 September to 23 October. 

  High point for both Choi's was 6100m, for Jeon was 7300m, for both Kim's was BC and for Lim is 5800m, his first time in the Himalaya.

  Hong will continue his climb on Lhotse South in Spring 2015.

  Fixed rope:
    4600m from ABC to 7900m

  Oxygen:
    Taken for emergency; not used by members, but used for one the Korean trekkers
      who had altitude sickness at BC

accidents:
  Hong fell down 15-20m while tackling an overhang at 6500m, injuring his left knee (it was fine after 2-3 days of medication)


expid: CHUG14301
peakid: CHUG
year: 2014
route1: W Face
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Domen Kastelic
sponsor: Slovenian-American Chugimago Expedition 2014
ascent1: 1st official
countries: USA
smtdate: 2014-11-12
campsites: BC,Biv,Smt(12/11)
agency: Dreamers Destination Treks
routememo:
  From Domen Kastelic (www.mytendon.com):

  After first visit of Rolwaling region in Nepal last year I headed back this autumn with new climbing objectives. My company and climbing partner on this trip was Sam Hennessey, who I met and climbed with a few years ago in Yosemite. 

  By a set of coincidences, just as we approached Rolwaling we met a local that remembered me from the last year, and who arranged us with an accommodation in a house of an elderly Sherpa couple, instead of staying in a lodge in last village before the mountains, Na Gaon (4200m). This was our base camp.

  Our climbing objective was first ascent on a virgin West Face of Chukyima Go (6259m) and an actual "first" ascent of the mountain. Nepalese authorities have opened the peak for climbing in this year. Before our departure to the mountains, when we were sorting out the formalities in Kathmandu, the ministry claimed that the peak was yet unconquered, although before our expedition we have found a record that the first ascent was made by the English-Nepalese expedition in 1952. We have not found any other records of ascents on the mountain [originally thought that 1952 Scottish expedition climbed this peak, but likely Peak 5794m instead].

  After arriving to the base camp we started with acclimatization. The first departure was onto a glacier and eponymous ridge called Rimposhar, from where we examined the peaks in the area and checked climbing conditions. Following that we have spent 3 days under and around Chukyima Go, to see the West Face and sleep at the altitude. We also climbed Yalung Ri (5630m), which offered a good view on our climbing objective.

  For the present, 14 days since we arrived in Rolwaling, the weather was still unstable, post-monsoon with clear mornings and cloudy afternoons. It even occurred a couple of times that the weather forecast we were receiving showed partial clouds, only in reality it snowed with occasional thunders.

  After few rest days and waiting for nicer weather after acclimatization, the forecast showed 3 days of improvement and clear sky before the next weather front. We decided to give it a try and started packing.

  Part of the gear that we used for acclimatization tour was already stored half way up of the approach to Chukyima Go West Face, so we started with lighter backpacks on the first day. We pitched our tent on the glacier bellow the wall, only to be surprised by light snowing. Instead of exposing our gear and tent to the wet conditions already on the approach, we cooked and spent the rest of the afternoon under an overhanging boulder nearby. The evening though sky cleared up. Early next morning we entered the wall in the light of headlamps and started climbing. We encountered different conditions during the climb. In first, lower part we were sinking in the snow and waded through the terrain; the middle revealed excellent alpine ice and some mixed terrain; while in the upper part of the wall we were slowed down by the fresh fine snow. It took as whole day before we reached the ridge, found a bivy place and pitched our tent before the sunset.

  Next morning we waited for the sun, left the bivouac gear behind, and started with lighter packs. There were only about 150 meters that separated us from the summit, but because of the sharp ridge, fresh drifted snow and some rocky sections, the progress was slow. In three hours we reached the summit. Based on the available information we did second ascent of the mountain. This was also the first time we viewed the South and East faces of the mountain, and thought that the English-Nepalese expedition did a good effort to reach the peak in 1952, because the terrain of the mountain was visibly technically demanding on all sides. The same day we descended back by our route and continued further to the base camp, which we reached at night.


expid: AMAD14310
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Helmut Hackl
sponsor: Atomic Adventure Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Austria
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2014-10-13
smtdate: 2014-10-25
campsites: BC(13/10,4600m),C1(15/10,5800m),C2(24/10,6100m),Smt(25/10)
agency: Ramdung Expedition
routememo:
  Hackl and Hoflehner summited 25 Oct according to Ramdung Expedition's Facebook entry.

  Ramsauer's high point 5600m on 20 October; he got sick.

  Lechenbauer's high point 6300m on 25 October; he suffered from cold.


expid: AMAD14311
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Ray Smith
sponsor: Adventure Before Dementia Ama Dablam 2014
termnote: Abandoned before BC due to bad weather from Cyclone Hudhud
othersmts: Attempted Island Peak
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Smith and Berry abandoned climb due to adverse weather conditions from Cyclone Hudhud. They were attempting Island Peak as a precursor to Ama Dablam.


expid: AMAD14315
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Brian Jones
sponsor: Canuck Place Nepal Trip
bcdate: 2014-10-18
smtdate: 2014-10-23
smttime: 1345
termdate: 2014-10-25
othersmts: Summited Lobuche East (4 members)
campsites: BC(18/10),C1(20/10,5700m),C2(22/10,6000m),Smt(23/10)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Wheeler, Jones and Phurba Bhote summited on 23 October at 1:45 pm.

  Two additional members, Randy Bosma and Tom Burley, planned only to climb Lobuche and Island Peak and not go to Ama Dablam (not on Ama Dablam permit).


expid: AMAD14316
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Lakpa Sherpa
sponsor: Himalayan Ascent Ama Dablam Expedition 2014
countries: Canada, USA
termnote: Abandoned after death of Dendi Sherpa
agency: Himalayan Ascent
routememo:
  The team abandoned the expedition after the fatal ice avalanche that killed Dendi Sherpa, a Himalayan Ascent guide that was working with the Himalayan Ascent Swiss team led by Tom Martinson.


expid: AMAD14337
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Dani Paolo
sponsor: Italian Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->Kalapattar->Chhukung->Island Peak->AMAD BC
bcdate: 2014-11-18
smtdate: 2014-11-21
termdate: 2014-11-23
termnote: Abandoned due to high winds and danger of serac falling
othersmts: Summited Island Peak by all members except Righi
campsites: BC(18/11,4630m),C1(19/11,5800m),C2(20/11,6100m),xxx(23/11,6380m)
agency: Dream Himalaya Adventures permit
routememo:
  High point for Paolo and Grego is C2. 

  Tendi Sherpa was worried about the dablam falling.

  Righi left expedition on 18 November and probably left Nepal on 23 or 24 November.


expid: AMAD14334
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Tom Martinson
sponsor: Swiss Ama Dablam
smtdate: 2014-11-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to Sherpa fatality from falling ice
campsites: xxx(6400m)
agency: Himalayan Ascent
routememo:
  The team abandoned the expedition after the fatal ice avalanche that killed Dendi Sherpa during the team's summit bid on 3 Nov.

  From Himalayan Ascent website:

  Early morning on November 3rd, Dendi Sherpa was guiding a strong Swiss team of three on their summit bid on Ama Dablam. They started from Camp 2 at midnight and had passed Camp 3 by 3 am. Shortly after this time, the team was hit by falling ice.

  Dendi was in front and sadly he was hit directly. A rescue was conducted at the earliest opportunity to evacuate the surviving Swiss climbers. Hans Rudolf climbing behind Dendi sustained injuries to his pelvis and he's currently recovering in Kathmandu. The other two Swiss climbers, Catherine Martinson and Thomas Martinson, were generally unharmed and are relocated in Kathmandu.

  We have cancelled our remaining expeditions on Ama Dablam. 


  From eKantipur.com & Himalayan Times:

  SOLUKHUMBU, NOV 04 - One person died and two others have been injured due to an avalanche occurred on Mt Ama Dablam at Khumjung-7 on Monday.

  The deceased has been identified as 26-year-old Dendi Sherpa of Jubing-3. The avalanche occurred at around 6 am. Similarly, 42-year-old Hans Rudolf and 35-year-old Tina Rufela Graf, both Swiss nationals, have sustained injury in the incident. Rudolf suffers a broken back while Graf has received general injuries, police said. They have been brought to Kathmandu for treatment.


expid: AMAD14338
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Noel Hanna
sponsor: Seven Summits Adventure Ama Dablam Expedition 2014
countries: Azerbaijan, Belarus, Kazakhstan, UK
smtdate: 2014-10-20
smttime: 0945
campsites: BC,C1,C2(19/10),Smt(20/10)
agency: 7 Summits Adventure
routememo:
  Team summited on 20 Oct and returned to C2. The next morning they began their descent to C1. Murad Ashurly died when his rappel rope broke just below C2 and he fell 300m.

  From 7 Summit Club website:

  20th of October a group Noel Hanna (Team Leader), Murad Ashurly, Gennadiy Durov, Iurii Kormazov, Makar German, with Climbing Sherpa's Rinjin Sherpa, Jangbu Sherpa, Pasang Sherpa reached the summit of Ama Dablam. On the same day they went down to the Camp 2. The next morning (21.10), the accident occurred at the beginning of the descent towards Camp 1. Ashurly Murad died falling with a broken fixed ropes.

  We bring our condolences to the family and all who knew and loved him!


  Report of Noel Hanna:

  "The last 30 hrs has been the worst 30 hrs in my life.

  We left Camp 2 on Ama Dablam at 0930 yesterday morning to return to Camp 1. I left the camp 1st followed by the rest of my team. I just had climbed down about 30 minutes when your worst nightmare happened. I had just came off rappelling down a rope (lots of old ropes with 1 new rope) and moved onto the next rope to rappel when my friend Murad who was rappelling down the last rope I was on and the rope broke. Murad fell 300-400 mts vertically down on the rocks/snow. A rescue was put into place but unfortunately the weather was very bad. Early this morning I accompanied the rescue helicopter and retrieved his body from the mountain back to Kathmandu.

  I have lost a good climbing buddy and friend. My prayers go out to Olga and all Murad's family."


expid: AMAD14339
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Dani Fuller
sponsor: SummitClimb Ama Dablam Expedition 2014 (Group 1)
countries: Australia, Austria, Germany, Israel, Pakistan, Switzerland, USA
bcdate: 2014-10-16
smtdate: 2014-10-28
termdate: 2014-11-01
campsites: BC(16/10),C1(5700m),C2(6000m),Smt(28,30/10)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  The SummitClimb Ama Dablam expedition was organized into two groups, both led by Dani Fuller. Group A (16 members) arrived at base camp on 16 Oct.

  From SummitClimb website:

  Oct 28:

  First Group Summit Report: Paul Sodamin, Alfons Hoellwarth, Anselm Roehrl all
    summited and are safely back at C2.  
  Christian Mueller, Pamela Pappas, Kevin Farebrother got so close, but made the 
    correct decision to turn around, all safe at C2.

  Oct 30:

  This is Dani leader: Ama Dablam congratulation to Jordan Baggs, Salima Shafi,
    Darren Shepherd, who all summited today. All back at C2.

  Update from Kaji Tamang: 4 members and 3 Sherpa summited together today. We 
    will update you more update soon. Thank you very much.


  From Graham Lyman blog:

  Some team members left early due to climber death from falling while using old ropes and discontent with condition of ropes on the mountain.


expid: AMAD14340
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Dani Fuller
sponsor: SummitClimb Ama Dablam Expedition 2014 (Group 2)
countries: Australia, Canada, Germany
bcdate: 2014-11-06
termnote: Abandoned at 6150m due to avalanche danger
othersmts: Summited Island Peak (Hansel, Jones-Warner and Valentine)
campsites: BC(06/11),C1(5700m),C2(6000m),xxx(6150m)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  The SummitClimb Ama Dablam expedition was organized into two groups, both led by Dani Fuller. Group B (7 members) arrived at base camp on 6 Nov.

  The team abandoned the expedition due to avalanche danger near the dablam.

  From www.everest2k15.com:

  Tom Valentine along with Sange Sherpa made a summit attempt after the team had decided to abandon the expedition. They only reached 6150m before deciding for themselves that the conditions were too dangerous.


expid: AMAD14333
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Israel
leaders: Ido Ben Nun
sponsor: Israeli Ama Dablam Expedition 2014
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2014-11-15
smtdate: 2014-11-18
termdate: 2014-11-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to exhaustion and climbing mishap
campsites: BC(15/11,4400m),C1(17/11,5700m),xxx(6100m)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  In the morning of 25 November during his summit push Ben Nun found that his boot sole had broken, but he continued climbing. Around 1 pm on the Yellow Tower about five meters below C2 he missed his hold and was hanging away from the rock face with 30 kg backpack. He struggled for more than two hours to reach to the rock face, but could not get into any hold and became exhausted. Then two Sherpas from Himalayan Guides came up and with their help Ben Nun went down to C1; it was completely dark. Next day he went down to BC and on 27 November he was heli-lifted to Kathmandu. He was not injured, but very exhausted.


expid: AMAD14342
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Jon Gupta
sponsor: Jon Gupta Ama Dablam Expedition 2014
countries: Denmark, Ireland
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to unstable conditions on the dablam
campsites: BC(4500m),ABC(5500m),C1(5800m),C2(6000m),xxx(6400m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  The team abandoned the expedition due to unstable conditions on the dablam and a earlier fatal ice avalanche.


expid: AMAD14343
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Marco Zamberlan
sponsor: Zamberlan 85th Anniversary Expedition To Ama Dablam 2014
countries: Russia
smtdate: 2014-10-20
smttime: 1030
campsites: BC(4500m),C1(5800m),C2(19/10,6050m),Smt(20/10)
agency: International Sherpa Adventure
routememo:
  From RedFox website:

  On October 20th, 2014 the members of the Zamberlan Expedition summited Ama Dablam in Nepal, via the classic southwest route. The expedition was undertaken to commemorate the 85th anniversary of the Zamberlan Outdoor company, makers of fine mountaineering boots.

  Members of the expedition team included Marco Zamberlan, Vlad Moroz (Director of Red Fox), Vasily Voloshin (VP Sales at Red Fox), Caio Pellizzari, Michele Barbiero, and Stelvio Frigo. The expedition bid began October 3rd, with members reaching the summit October 20th.

  Comments from Vasily Voloshin:

  During the ascent the expedition divided. I (Vasily Voloshin), Vlad, Claudio and our guides Onchu and Dava reached the Camp 1 (5800m). Then, myself, Vlad, Dava and Onchu went on to the Camp 2. This is a rule that climb is done gradually: after an ascent a mountaineer should descend. We went up with a very high pace. We were trapped by possibility of bad weather, so we hurried. We climbed to 5800m. It was very difficult, because from the base camp at 4600 meters we had to climb to 5800 meters. We overcame 1 km 200m through a very steep trail with a heavy backpack. And then from 5800m to 6050m – this is a very big section where you should climb with a backpack on an almost vertical cliff with rocky sections 6a category of difficulty. It was a long queue on this section, we had to hang on the cliff and wait for our turn, it was cold. It was very hard section, so finally, when we came to Camp 2, I had a severe headache which lasted all night and next morning. We planned to pass this section in alpine style, so we went straight to the top. This short section of 250m we were climbing took almost the whole day. When we completed it was already dark. And at 1 am we should go further. I just physically could not move forward because I had a severe headache. I decided to go down to calm down my head, and then go up. And at the same time, our guide Onchu injured his shoulder and also could not go any further. Therefore Dava with Vlad went up at 2:30 am, and in the morning I and Onchu went down. I went down, and at one section my rope broke, and I was injured. That fate decided for me that I will no longer participate in the ascent. And Vlad with Dava climbed to the top.

  Comments from Vlad Moroz:

  The section from camp 2 to the top was very specific. Usually all expeditions start to go very early. Some people tried to start at 10 pm. We started at 2:30 am. All this section is overcame in dark with flashlights. And, of course, I was pleased that the guide walked side by side. He was going first, he knew where to go and lighted up the path. If my flashlight batteries became exhausted because of cold and it was a contingency for me. We should go almost by touch, the guide lighted up the way ahead. There are a lot of ropes hanging along the route. All of them are different, and some of them are entirely bad. But at night it is not visible. Soon the sun rose, so we didn't have any problems. And I went down early, when it was light, so I did not need a flashlight. All the others who went after us, went down in the dark. It was a very beautiful view at night: a slope, flashlights and then the stars. There are several quite dangerous places on this section. Some time earlier between the Camp 2 and the summit a Camp 3 existed. And this Camp 3 is situated under a big glacier. A few years ago this glacier fell down, and several persons were killed. Since that time Camp 3 is not done there. Along all the route there are rocky sections under the melting glaciers. They can fall down at any second. That's why these sections should be passed very quickly. Especially during the day, because ice melts. And in the night it's cold, and not so dangerous to go.


expid: AMAD14345
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Stephan Keck
sponsor: Friends Alpinist Ama Dablam Expedition Autumn 2014
countries: Germany
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2014-10-08
smtdate: 2014-10-19
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2014-10-21
campsites: (BC(08/10,4500m),C1(10/10,5800m),C2(11/10,6000m),Smt(19/10)
agency: Friends Adventure Team
routememo:
  From Stephan Keck website (www.stephan-keck.at):

  19 Oct (summit day)

  The Sherpas start at 4:00 am to fix the last ropes. There's a lot of activation going on. 15 persons, including 4 Sherpas start towards the summit.

  Everything is very hectic and it is dark and cold outside, and so we decided to wait until the sun reaches Camp II. At 6:30 we stand in front of our tent, ready to try a summit push. The people who started before us are near already, and so we can take a short break in the morning sun until the steeper parts start. We are making good progress. The way leads us over steep terrain, ice and rock, and we head towards Camp III.

  Finally we reach the Mushroom Ridge and the sun. It was really freezing on the first two hours of this hike.

  At about 10:00 we reach Camp III, which is hidden under a serac. We don't lose time and continue to about 45°–55° steep terrain towards summit. Also in the summit flank we are making good progress.

  We can see Tsering and there are only 100 Hm to the summit. Tsering has taken the lead in fixing the ropes from Camp II to the summit. I hear on the radio that he has now reached the peak, it is 12:00 o'clock. I can reach the summit 45 minutes later, Christian follows another 15 minutes later. Our goal is achieved, bright sunshine, but quite low temperatures about -20°C and 25 Km/H wind. We spend about half an hour at the top, make photos and enjoy the breathtaking view.

  Then we make our way back towards Camp II. Across steep rock and ice passages it goes down.

  After we left Camp III the most dangerous parts are managed. Within the last sunrays and very tired we reach Camp II at 17:00. We decide to stay here again. From todays perspective that was a mistake because we didn't close an eye for 2/3 of the night. Dehydrated and no longer willing to eat we slipped in our sleeping bags.


expid: AMAD14347
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Norway
leaders: Sigurd Felde
sponsor: Peaks of Nepal Ama Dablam Expedition 2014
bcdate: 2014-10-28
smtdate: 2014-11-03
termdate: 2014-11-06
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to dangerous avalanche conditions
campsites: BC(28/10,4500m),ABC(01/11,5300m),C1(02/11,5700m),xxx(03/11,6000m)
agency: Peaks of Nepal
routememo:
  Notes extracted from Norwegain website:
    http://www.hvitserk.no/turer/egne/ama-dablam/ama-dablam-ekspedisjonen-2014/ 

  Oct 28 - Arrived at base camp.
  Oct 29 - Trekked up to Yak Camp (ABC) at 5450m.
  Oct 30 - Rest day.
  Nov 01 - Team moved up to Yak Camp, all except Vestad (altitude issues)
  Nov 02 - Team moved up to C1 (5700m).
  Nov 03 - Climbed up to C2 site (6000m), returned to C1, then down to ABC and BC.
  Nov 04 - Ama Dablam expedition canceled due to dangerous conditions higher up on
           the mountain.
  Nov 06 - Departed BC for Dingboche and Lobuche.
  Nov 10 - Summited Lobuche East.
  Nov 11 - Went to Gokyo via Cho La.
  Nov 12 - Went to Thame via Rengo La, then eventually down to Lukla.


expid: AMAD14328
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Di Gilbert
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Ama Dablam Expedition 2014
countries: Australia
bcdate: 2014-11-16
smtdate: 2014-11-25
termdate: 2014-11-28
campsites: BC(16/11,4500m),C1(19/11,5700m),C2(20/11,6000m),Smt(25/11)
agency: Makalu Adventure
routememo:
  Other members:
    Andy Mitchell (summiter)
    Will Lake (to 6150m)
    Kevin Haydn (to 5400m only)


  From Adventure Peaks website:

  Ama Dablam Expedition 2014
  By Di GilbertDecember 2, 2014
  Leader and News updates: Di Gilbert. Departed 8th November 2014.

  10th November
  Update: All the team arrived in Kathmandu yesterday at various times, minus Will’s bag. However, the good news is that bag and owner have now been reunited. Visit to the Tourism Ministry this afternoon to get the permit. Our in-country agent has organised a cultural evening tonight. The plan is to catch one of the first flights out of Lukla tomorrow morning. The team feel they are still probably suffering from various stages of jet lag but are looking forward to the adventures ahead!

  13th November
  We successfully managed to get one of the first flights out of Kathmandu to Lukla a couple of days ago. It was then a case of organising some equipment for the yaks before walking very very slowly to Phakding for the night. The next day we maintained our ninja walking pace up to the cirque containing Namche Bazaar. Today we had a very leisurely stroll up to the Everest View Hotel for our first views of Ama Dablam.

  So we have been trekking for 2 days up to the capital of the Solu Khumbu, Namche Bazaar, where we have had a relaxing acclimatisation day. Phurba is obviously happy with our progress, because he was confident to let us walk up to the Everest View Hotel armed with a quality Nepalese map. Today we managed to see our peak for the first time.  Needless to say that the group are having to contain their excitement.

  We are accompanied by our Sirdar/Climbing Sherpa Phurba and our second Climbing Sherpa Pasang Sherpa. Our cook, Rosan and our kitchen boy, Pasang, are in the area but are having a relaxing time (all relative) as we enjoy the luxuries of the tea houses. They will soon kick into action as we near the mountain. Tomorrow we will head to Phangboche and then onto Ama Dablam Base Camp. All the group are in good spirits and are acclimatising well.

  15th November
  The AP team finally left the comforts of Namche Bazaar and headed towards Denboche via the spectacular Tengboche Monestry. The following day saw us head to the Llama in Pangboche for our puja ceremony – in Phurba’s words “the llama is old and would require a helicopter to get him to Base Camp”. The same afternoon we continue up to Ama Dablam Base Camp – home for the next couple of weeks.

  We all have a rest day in Base Camp (another puja) – unfortunately cloudy – followed by a day trip up to ABC by Di, Will & Andy. Kevin didn’t feel great so decided to have an extra acclimatisation day enjoying the comforts of Base Camp life then headed up to ABC the following day.

  16th November
  A quick call from Di – we arrived at Ama Dablam Base Camp yesterday and now have a rest day. The weather has been quite good up to now, but is overcast today so feels a little chilly! We are all enjoying some relaxation before tomorrow’s acclimatisation walk up to Advanced Base Camp at 5400m and back. All are well and looking forwards to the challenge ahead.

  18th November
  Sat phone connections are very intermittent in the Khumbu Valley but Di has just called to say the team are making good progress and are back to Base Camp now. Di, Will and Andy spent the night at Yak Camp and are having a rest day today with Kevin and a Sherpa following that routine today.

  19th November
  Di, Andy, Will and Phurba make the journey to ABC. Kevin and Pasang will follow our itinerary one day later. The trek to ABC is probably further than any of us expected and nobody, except Phurba who has just returned off the Baruntse trip, could say that they had an enjoyable nights sleep.

  The following day the team make there way up to Camp 1 – a mixed of scree, boulders and fixed lines. An amazing camp site with some fantastic views along the valleys and of Ama Dablam herself.

  20th November
  An excellent day up to Camp 2 – apparently the technical crux of the route with the famous yellow tower proving the most entertainment – before the team make the long descent back down to Base Camp. On return to BC Kevin decided to leave the trip.

  22nd November
  We are making great progress and now have a tent at ABC; a tent at Camp One and a tent at Camp 2. We all rested yesterday and paid over the odds for coke and were delighted when Paul and some of the Mera/Island team popped in to say hello.
  This morning Andy (who has been very strong throughout) has departed Base Camp for Camp 1 in preparation for his summit bit – he will be joined by Phurba tomorrow morning at Camp 1 before they both move to Camp 2 the same day. Fingers crossed they will summit the following day.

  Di has decided to delay her summit bid departure by 2 days – this will allow Pasang to return and for Andy to clear Camp 2. Will made the decision to join Di and therefore we will be 2 days behind Andy.

  25th November
  Summit success! Andy and Phurba reached the summit of Ama Dablam today in light winds with no clouds to obscure the spectacular view. Well done to you both! They are now in Camp 2 and will move down the mountain tomorrow. Di and Will are in Camp 1 tonight and will be moving up the mountain tomorrow to Camp 2 ready to make their summit bid in the next few days, weather permitting – Good luck!

  27th November
  Di has called with an update after returning back to Base Camp and was in great spirits. Both Will and Di climbed to Mushroom Ridge before deciding conditions did not look good higher on the mountain. They enjoyed an amazing days climbing with stunning views and conditions before clearing down the mountain and have just arrived in Base Camp. We’ll post a full update and photos from Di Soon.

  28th November
  Wow – what an adventure.

  Will and Di are obviously gutted not to have summited but sometimes when a routes not in condition, its not in condition. At least we can hold our heads high and say that we did give it our best. Despite numerous conversations about trekking options the boys are now set on Kathmandu asap. As a result of this, we are now in Deboche – the in country team remain in Base Camp packing up and shall probably catch us up in Namchee tomorrow. Tomorrow we shall head to Namchee and then on to Lukla.

  As for now, it’s absolutely baltic in Base Camp today (spindrift off Ama Dablam) and we were the last camp bar one to leave :)

  1st December
  We are all currently tucked up in Lukla waiting for a flight out tomorrow morning.  We should have been here slightly earlier but Will contracted some horrendous tummy bug (egg burps to give you a clue) and we have therefore been walking at a rather slow pace down the valley. Good news is that he has managed to keep some food down now so hopefully will be fighting fit soon again.

  All team good, looking forward to a different menu choice, a shower and some clean clothes.

  2nd December
  This is the last dispatch from our team. All the team are safely back in Kathmandu well ahead of schedule. Will and Andy plan to head down to Chitwan National Park for some R&R as I have the delights of the Ministry to look forward to tomorrow.  Enjoy cheap pop, free internet and good (i.e. a change) of menu :)


expid: BARU14303
peakid: BARU
year: 2014
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Stuart Peacock
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Baruntse Expedition 2014
approach: See route notes
bcdate: 2014-10-26
smtdate: 2014-11-04
termdate: 2014-11-06
termnote: Abandoned at 6470m due to client difficulty with exposure
campsites: BC(26/10,5430m),C1(28/10,6170m),C2(03/11,6470),xxx(04/11,6995m)
agency: Makalu Adventure
routememo:
  Approach: Lukla->Poyang [Paiya]->Panjana [Panggom]->Tashing Dingma->Chute Kharka
    ->Kote->Tangnag->Khare->Mera La     

  Peacock, Heaton and Phurba Wangchu started their summit bid at 4 am on 6 November around 9 am. They reached at 6995m near overhand exposure, then Heaton did not like to continue to climb due to the steep exposure. The team descended to BC where they arrived at 2 pm.

  Fixed rope: contributed 400m

  Note: Adventure Peaks website gives high-point date and 4 November.


expid: BARU14304
peakid: BARU
year: 2014
route1: SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: SummitClimb Baruntse Expedition 2014
countries: Denmark, Germany, Switzerland
bcdate: 2014-10-29
smtdate: 2014-11-04
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2014-11-06
othersmts: Summited Mera Peak on 25 Oct
campsites: BC(29/10,5450m),C1(31/10,6143m),C2(03/11,6450m),Smt(04/11)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  SummitClimb Baruntse & Mera Peak Expedition 2014:

  14 Oct - team flew to Lukla
  16 Oct - crossed over Chetra La (4600m) to Chetra (4100m)
  18 Oct - reached Tagnang (4300m)
  23 Oct - reached Mera Peak BC (5300m)
  24 Oct - reached Mera Peak high camp (5800m)
  25 Oct - summited Mera Peak (entire team)
  29 Oct - reached Baruntse BC (5450m)
  31 Oct - climbed West Col to C1 (6143m)
  01 Nov - Sherpas carried loads to C2 in strong winds
  02 Nov - team remained in C1 due to high winds
  03 Nov - team moved up to C2 (6450m)
  04 Nov - team summited at 1 pm, returned to C2
  05 Nov - team returned to BC
  06 Nov - team departed BC to cross Amphu La


expid: BARU14305
peakid: BARU
year: 2014
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Romania
leaders: Ionut Stefanescu
sponsor: Unique Adventure Romanian Baruntse Exp Autumn 2014
smtdate: 2014-11-05
smttime: 0945
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak
campsites: Smt(05/11)
agency: Unique Adventure International
routememo:
  From Romanian website:

  Ionut Stefanescu is the first Romanian climber who managed to reach the peak of the Baruntse in the Himalayas, a feat he achieved this year on November 5.

  The team which included Ionut Stefanescu, Marin Amarinei, Stefan Teodoru, Adrian Laza, Iulian Petre and Ciprian Chelariu has planned to reach first on Mera Peak, at 6475m. Then the group would split into two: Marin Amarinei, Ionut Stefanescu, Ciprian Chelariu and Stefan Teodoru to reach Baruntse (7162m), while Adrian Laza and Iulian Petre to aim for Island Peak (6189m).

  Because of the harsh conditions and problems of acclimatization, the team plans were thwarted. In turn, Stefan Teodoru, Marin Amarinei and Ciprian Chelariu left the team, so Ionut Stefanescu remained alone to reach peak Baruntse. Stefanescu reached its peak on November 5 at 9:45, along with three Austrian climbers [Stephan Wijnkamp team].                                                          .


expid: BARU14306
peakid: BARU
year: 2014
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Anton (Toni) Spirig
sponsor: Strapazis Baruntse Expedition 2014
approach: Zatra La->Mera Peak->Baruntse BC
bcdate: 2014-10-26
smtdate: 2014-11-04
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2014-11-07
othersmts: Summited Mera Peak and Ama Dablam on 13 Nov (AMAD-143-48)
campsites: BC(26/10),C1(28/10,6150m),C2(29/10,6550m),Smt(04/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  26/10  5450m
  C1  28/10  6150m at West Col
  C2  29/10  6650m
  Smt 04/11  by Ursina Spirig, Bernhard Staehli, Siddhi Tamang at 1 pm.

  Summit team left C2 at 6 am. Weather was perfect. Straightforward climb. They stayed about 30 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at about 5 pm. The next day they descended to BC.

  Non-summiters:
    Toni Spirig, C1, 6150m due to illness (fever)
    Daria Spirig, C1, 6150m due to illness (fever)
    Stephan Braun, C2, 6650m due to headache
    Benedikt Braun, C2, 6650m due to headache
    Albin Kretz, C2, 6650m due to headache and fever
    Urs Pfister didn't get to base camp due to high altitude problems and had 
      to fly out by helicopter.


expid: CHOY14311
peakid: CHOY
year: 2014
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Sean James
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Cho Oyu Expedition 2014
bcdate: 2014-09-13
smtdate: 2014-09-29
termdate: 2014-10-02
campsites: BC(13/09,5700m),C1(16/09,6400m),C2(26/09,7100m),C3(28/09,7500m),Smt(29/09)
agency: Makalu Adventure (Snowy Horizon pmt)
routememo:
  From Adventure Peaks website:

  29th September: Our patience and tactics paid off. we moved up the mountain using intermediate camps and sat out a windy day at 1.5 with the promise of a settled spell. We moved up to Camp 3 at7500m and spent a cold evening before launching for the summit.

  Every member of the AP team and our Sherpa Onchou summited Cho Oyu on a perfect day. The snow was crisp and good under foot, a little wind blew the clouds away and we had views of almost every Himalayan mountain you can think of. We are looking forward to getting back to Kathmandu and the delights there.


expid: CHOY14318
peakid: CHOY
year: 2014
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Clement Bois
sponsor: Monterosa International Cho Oyu Expedition
countries: Italy, Japan
bcdate: 2014-09-05
smtdate: 2014-09-29
smttime: 0715
termdate: 2014-10-03
campsites: BC(05/09,4900m),IC(5300m),ABC(08/09,5600m),C1(13/09,6400m),C2(28/09,7050m),Smt(29/09)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  On Return Report for Caria:

  Caria and Ang Dawa arrived C3 site from C2. They rested for a few hours and left C3 at 2:30 am (CST) of 29 September. They reached the summit at 9:30 am, stayed on summit for about 30 minutes, then went down to C3 site where they arrived at 12:10 pm; they continued descending to C2 where they arrived at 1:10 pm, then to ABC at 8:30 pm.

  Oxygen:
    Caria used from C3->Smt->C3; Sherpa did not use.

  Sherpa:
    Ang Dawa


expid: CHOY14315
peakid: CHOY
year: 2014
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Luca Montanari
sponsor: Snowy Horizon International Cho Oyu Expedition 2014
countries: Canada, France, Germany, India, Mexico, Philippines, Poland
bcdate: 2014-09-09
smtdate: 2014-09-28
smttime: 0945
termdate: 2014-10-04
campsites: CBC(09/09,4930m),IC(11/09,5330m),ABC(12/09,5640m),C1(17/09,6430m),C2(19/09,7050m),Smt(28-29/09)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  The Snowy Horizon International Cho Oyu expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-4 climbers each). Snowy Horizon Treks provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below where known:

  Sonia Dandl (Germany)

  Name:  Sonia on Cho Oyu
  Camps: BC(09/09,4900m),IC(11/09,5300m),ABC(12/09,5600m),C1(17/09,6400m),
         C1.5(24/09,6900m),C2(30/09,7100m),xxx(01/10,7300m)
  Left:  4/10/2014
  Term:  Abandoned at 7300m due to coldness

  It was Dandl's summit push day, but she felt too cold and gave up further climbing.


  Steffen Hirzel (Germany)

  Name:  No Oxygen Cho Oyu Expedition
  Camps: CBC(09/09,4930m),IC(11/09,5330m),ABC(12/09,5640m),C1(17/09,6430m),
         C2(19/09,7050m),Smt(28/09)
  Left:  2/10/2014
  Term:  Success

  Hirzel and Ang Dawa started from C2 at 1 am (CST) on 28 September and reached top at 12 noon (9:45 NST). They stayed on summit for 10 minutes, then went down to C2 where they arrived at 5:15 pm. Next day 29 September they reached ABC. Summit day weather was bit windy, but clear. There were four climbers ahead of Hirzel and behind were some Italians and others.

  Oxygen: 
    Used only by Sherpa from 7900m to smt to 7900m

  Sherpa:
    Ang Dawa Sherpa, 18/11/84, Jubing-1


  Manish Kumar Deka (India)

  Name:  Assam Cho Oyu Expedition  
  Camps: BC(09/09,5000m),IC(11/09,5300m),ABC(12/09,5800m),C1(14/09,6200m),
         C2(18/09,6800m),Smt(29/09)
  Left:  3/10/2014
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success

  Deka and Phurba Gyalje started their summit bid from C2 at 11 pm (IST) on 28 September. They got to the top at 6:50 am [7:05 am NST] on 29 September and stayed there for about 25 minutes. Then back to C2 where they arrived at 10:30 pm and spent night there. Next day 30 September, they went down to ABC. Ahead of Deka team there were about 5 climbers and behind about 18 climbers. The weather on summit day was a bit windy.

  1st Assamese to summit Cho Oyu.

  Oxygen:
    Deka below C3–>Smt->C3; Sherpa did not use.

  Sherpa:
    Phurba Gyalje Sherpa, 31/8/78, Makalu-9 (lives in Darjeeling)


  Gustavo Mejia Mora (Mexico)
  Arturo Guerra Gonzalez (Mexico)

  Camps: CBC(09/09,4900m),IC(11/09,5300m),ABC(12/09,5780m),C1(17/09,6400m),
         C2(19/09,7100m),C3(28/09,7500m),Smt(29/09)
  Left:  3/10/2014
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success

  Guerra Gonzalez and Sherpa left for summit from C3 at midnight of 28 September. They got to the top at 7 am and stayed there for about 20 minutes. Then back to C3 at around 11:30 am. They rested for one hour and reached C2 around 5 pm and slept there. Next day 30 September, they went down to ABC.  

  Mejia Mora's high point was C2; he had cough and throat problem.

  Oxygen: C3 up (stopped before two hours to summit)

  Sherpa: ??


  Gilles Larivee (Canada)

  Camps: CBC(09/09,4900m),IC(11/09,5300m),ABC(12/09,5600m),C1(17/09,6400m),
         C2(27/09,7100m),C3(28/09,7400m),Smt(29/09)
  Left:  3/10/2014
  Term:  Success

  Larivee and Karna started their summit push from C3 at 2:30 am (CST) and got to the summit at 9:30 am (7:15 am NST). They stayed on summit between 15 to 20 minutes, then went down to C3 where they reached at 2:30 pm and slept there. Next day 30 September they stopped at C2 for lunch and went down to C1 to sleep. Following day they went down to ABC. Summit day weather was clear.

  Oxygen: 
    Larivee used from C3->Smt->C3. 
    Karna used only for recovery inside the tent (did not use for climbing).

  Sherpa:
    Karna Tamang


  Bogdan Velev (France)

  Camps: CBC(09/09,4900m),IC(11/09,5300m),ABC(12/09,5660m),C1(17/09,6200m),
         C2(18/09,6800m),C3(28/09,7500m),Smt(29/09)
  Left:  3/10/2014
  Term:  Success

  Velev and Migma left C3 at 2 am of 29 September. They got to the summit at 7:15 am, stayed on summit for 45 minutes, then went down to C3 where they arrived at 10:30 am stayed there for one hour then went down to C1 at 4 pm. Next day 30 September descended to ABC. Lots of climbers summited on that day (between 30-40).

  Oxygen: 
    Velev used from C3->Smt->C3; Sherpa did not use.

  Sherpa:
    [Mingma Tenzi]


  Luca Montanari (Italy)
  Massimiliano Colombo (Italy)
  Luciano Dal Toe (Italy)
  Samuele Santagiuliana (Italy)

  Camps: CBC(08/09,4900m),IC(10/09,5300m),ABC(12/09,5700m),C1(16/09,6400m),
         C2(18/09,7150m),C3(28/09,7450m),Smt(29/09)
  Left:  4/10/2014
  Term:  Success

  Montanari and Funuru started their summit push from C3 at 3 am (NST) and got to the summit at 9 am. They stayed on summit for about 20 minutes, then went down to C3 where they reached at 1 pm; they rested for about half an hour and continued to ABC where they reached at 7:30 pm. About 15 climbers summated that day.

  Rest of the members went up to 7450m. One member [Colombo] left expedition early.

  Oxygen: 
    Montanari used from C3->Smt->C3; Sherpa did not use.

  Sherpa:
    Funuru


  Robert Jedynak (Poland)

  Camps: CBC(09/09,4900m),IC(11/09,5300m),ABC(12/09,5700m),C1(17/09,6400m),
         C2(19/09,7050m),Smt(28/09)
  Left:  2/10/2014
  Term:  Success

  Jedynak and Lakpa Tashi left C3 at 2:30 am and got to the summit at 9 am, stayed on summit for about 15 minutes, then went down to C3 where they arrived at 11 am; they continued to C2 where they spent the night. Next day 29 Sept descended to ABC.

  Oxygen: 
    Jedynak used from C3->Smt->C3; Sherpa did not use.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Tashi, Yaphu-9, 25/9/85


expid: CHOY14316
peakid: CHOY
year: 2014
route1: NW side
nation: Israel
leaders: Nadav Ben Yehuda
sponsor: Snowy Horizon International Shishapangma-Cho Oyu Expedition 2014
countries: Australia, Denmark, Italy
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2014-09-09
smtdate: 2014-09-28
smttime: 1205
termdate: 2014-10-04
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
campsites:
  CBC(09/09,4900m),IC(11/09,5300m),ABC(12/09,5780m),C1(17/09,6400m),C2(19/09,7100m),C3(28/09,7500m),Smt(28-29/09)

routememo:
  The Snowy Horizon International Shishapangma & Cho Oyu expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-3 climbers each). Snowy Horizon Treks provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below where known:

  Gillian Kit Wai Lee (Australia)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: CBC(09/09,4900m),IC(11/09,5300m),ABC(12/09,5700m),C1(17/09,6400m),
         C2(18/09,7100m),C3(28/09,7400m),xxx(29/09,7800m)
  Left:  04/10/2014
  Term:  Abandoned at 7800m due to diarrhea

  Lee started his summit bid from C3 at midnight (NST) of 28 September. When he reached 7800m at around 1 am, he got diarrhea and became very weak. He was offered oxygen, but did not take it. He returned to C3 and slept there. Next day 30 September went down to C2 and slept there. On 1 October he descended to ABC. 

  He left ABC on 4 October for Xixabangma and stayed there two nights. There was nobody from other expeditions at BC, so he then left for Kathmandu.

  Oxygen:
    Not used


  Ivan Braun (Denmark)

  Camps: BC(09/09,4900m),IC(11/09,5300m),ABC(12/09,5780m),C1(17/09,6400m),
         C2(19/09,7100m),C3(28/09,7500m),Smt(29/09)
  Left:  01/10/2014
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success

  Braun and Mingma left for summit from C3 at 3 am (NST) on 29 September. They got to the top at 10:41 am and stayed there for about 15 minutes, then back to C3 at around 2 pm. They had a rest and drink and reached C2 around 4 pm and slept there. While descending from summit Braun helped three climbers who had oxygen problems, health problems, etc with other Sherpas that made his descent a little longer. Next day 30 September, they went down to ABC. 

  He will go for trekking in Rolwaling from 9 October.

  Oxygen: Not used

  Sherpa:
    Mingma Sherpa


  Nicola Bonaiti (Italy)
  Alice Cavellera (Italy)
  Alberto Pacellini (Italy)

  Camps: BC(09/09,4915m),IC(11/09,5370m),ABC(12/09,5700m),C1(16/09,6430m),
         C2(19/09,7150m),Smt(28/09)
  Left:  30/09/14 to Shishapangma

  All three Italian climbers Bonaiti, Cavallera and Pacellini started from C2 at midnight (CST) of 27 September and got to the summit at 2:20 pm (12:05 pm NST) of 28 September. They stayed on summit for about 40 minutes and went down to C2 where they arrived at 6:45 pm. Next day 29 September all went down to ABC. While going up the team came across at C3 about 8 climbers coming down. It was very cold and used one of the tents at C3 for half an hour with permission. The team was the last one to reach to the top on that day.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used

  Sherpas: None


  Nadav Ben Yehuda (Israel)

  Camps: BC(09/09,4900m),IC(11/09,5300m),ABC(12/09,5700m),C1(16/09,6400m),
         C2(27/09,7100m),C3(28/09,7400m),Smt(28/09)
  Left:  03/10/14

  Yehuda and Tashi started their summit push from C3 at 2 am (NST) and got to the summit at 9:30 am. They stayed on summit for about 30 minutes, then went down to C3 where they reached at 4 pm, and C2 at 6 or 7 pm. Next day to ABC.

  Oxygen:
    Used from 7800m->Smt->7800m; Sherpa did not use.

  Sherpa:
    [Nga] Tashi


expid: CHOY14322
peakid: CHOY
year: 2014
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: SummitClimb Cho Oyu Expedition 2014
countries: Austria, Germany, Iceland, Netherlands, Portugal, Sweden, UK
bcdate: 2014-09-07
smtdate: 2014-09-28
smttime: 0930
agency: Everest Parivar
campsites:
  BC(07/09,4900m),ABC(10/09,5650m),IC(1410,6000m),C1(15/10,6400m),C1.5,C2(19/10,7142m),Smt(28-29/09,02/10)

routememo:
  Sept 28: Leo Wang summited at 9:30 am. The German team of Stefan Simchen, Thomas Hoffman, Uwe Werner and Christian Muendl also summited. 

  Sept 29: SummitClimb Cho Oyu team returned from summit to C3. Everyone summited: Glen Nyberg, Andreas Aaldering, Marina Cortes, Alan Barclay, Dan Mazur, Jangbu Sherpa, Ang Pasang Sherpa.

  Oct 02: Villa Gissurardottir and Atli Palsson summited without oxygen or Sherpa support. The Icelanders climbed independently from the SummitClimb group above ABC.

  What happened to Sebastian Dennerlein?
  What happened to Cops on Top group?


expid: CHOY14327
peakid: CHOY
year: 2014
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Luca Macchetto
sponsor: Mountain Kingdom Cho Oyu Expedition 2014
approach: 3 members via Nyalam->Tingri and 4 members via Lhasa->Xigatse->Xigar
bcdate: 2014-09-06
smtdate: 2014-10-01
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2014-10-06
agency: Prestige Adventure
campsites:
  BC(06/09,4900m),IC(08/09,5300m),ABC(09/09,5600m),C1(16/09,6400m),C2(30/09,7100m),C3(01/10,7500m),Smt(01-02/10)

routememo:
  Sanna started his ski ascent from C2 at midnight of 30 September. He got to the summit at 8:30 am of 01 October. He skied down to C3 then to C1. From C1 to ABC no skis. He was without supplementary oxygen.

  Annovazzi, Macchetto, Fasciani, Boaretto started their summit push from C3 at midnight of 30 September. Annovazzi reached the top at 6:30 am on 02 October. He stayed on summit for 20 minutes and returned to C3 at 9:30 am. Macchetto got to the top at 8 am, Fasciani at 8:20 am, Boaretto and Nima at 8:30 am. All of them stayed on summit for about 30 minutes and descended to C3 where they arrived between 12 to 2 pm. They stayed at C3 till 2 pm then went down to C2 where members arrived between 3 pm to 4:30 pm. Next day all went down to ABC.

  Crippa left expedition on 14 September due to coughing problem. He reached Kathmandu on 16 September and left probably for home on 17 or 18 September.

  Colombini went up to C2 and retreated to ABC due to lack of energy.

  Oxygen: Not used


  Paraphrased from Montagna.tv:

  The September 29, 2014, six Italian mountaineers, organized by the Mountain Kingdom, taking advantage of ideal weather, departed from Cho Oyu base camp to the Summit (8201m) scheduled for October 2: Federico Sanna, Luca Macchetto (mountain guide and expedition leader), Italo Fasciani, Stelvio Boaretto, Valerio Annovazzi and Paolo Colombini. The expedition was accompanied originally by another mountaineer, Pierangelo Crippa, but due to a sickness that occurred during the first period of the expedition, had to give up and returned to Italy early.

  On 30 September, unfortunately, Paolo left the team at about 7000 feet and returned to BC (5600m). On the same day Federico parted at midnight for the summit from C2 (7140m) with a load of skis. The summit came on the morning of 1 October 8:30 am after leaving the skis to C3 (7520 meters) to be used for descent.

  Meanwhile others, crossing Federico skiing downhill between C2 and C3, not without a hint of envy, struggled to get to C3. At 00:30 on October 2 all left for the summit reaching in order: Valerio at about 7:00, Luca and Italo at 7:30, and Stelvio at approximately 07:45. Also participating in the expedition were Sherpas Rita Dorje and Nima Tenji. The members from the expedition did not use oxygen either uphill or downhill.

accidents:
  Annovazzi got frostbitten fingers in both hands as he took off his gloves at 7800m (left-hand index finger is seriously frostbitten and right-hand four fingers are not that bad)


expid: MANA14320
peakid: MANA
year: 2014
route1: NE Face
nation: USA
leaders: Alex Barber
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Manaslu 2014
approach: Trekked via Samagaon
bcdate: 2014-09-09
smtdate: 2014-10-01
smttime: 1050
termdate: 2014-10-04
agency: Seven Summit Treks
campsites:
  BC(09/09,4800m),ABC,C1(11/09,5500m),C1B(12/09,5800m),C2(17/09,6400m),C3(24/09,6800m),C4(30/09,7400m),Smt(01/10)

routememo:
  BC  09/09  4800m 	
  C1  12/09  5800m
  C2  18/09  6400m
  C3  24/09  6800m	
  C4  30/09  7400m
  Smt 01/10 at 10:50 am by Barber.

  Barber left C4 at 6 am. It was calm and clear. He was climbing on his own; however, Arnold Coster's team was also going for the summit that day. He refixed some anchors of the fixed rope on the way up as he did not think they were sufficiently fixed. He spent about 5 minutes on the true summit and descended to C3, where he arrived at 2:30 pm.

   
  From RMI Blog:

  RMI GUIDE ALEX BARBER SUMMITS MANASLU!
  Posted by: Alex Barber | October 01, 2014 
  Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Guide News 
  Elevation: 26,759 ft

  Alex called from the summit of Manaslu on October 1st 10:50 am Nepali time (September 30th 10:32 pm PT)

  "It was a really chilly morning. Keeping moving on the summit to keep my fingers and toes warm. There are some clouds starting to come in and it's starting to snow. Hoping to go all the way down to Basecamp today. Looking forward to some good food and a decent mattress. The pace was pretty grueling: Base to Camp 2 in 8 hours, Camp 3 to Camp 4 in 3 hours and 45 minutes, and Camp 4 to summit in just over 4 hours.  I have the summit almost entirely to himself. Just one other climber up here. Pretty cool. Going to start making my way down. I’ll check in when I hit base. Ciao."

  Email from Alex received October 1st 8:25 pm Nepali time (7:40 am PT)

  I stood on the peak of Manaslu at 11 am on October 1st! Funny thing is that exactly one year ago to the day I was at the summit of Cho Oyu.

  Tired and cold, I just arrived back at Camp 3. I'm going to have something warm to drink and bundle up here for the night. I'll post something more descriptive tomorrow from Basecamp.


expid: MANA14318
peakid: MANA
year: 2014
route1: NE Face
nation: USA
leaders: Olya Lapina
sponsor: Olya on Manaslu
approach: Arughat->Jagat->Samagaon
bcdate: 2014-09-14
smtdate: 2014-10-01
smttime: 0815
termdate: 2014-10-03
campsites: BC(14/09,5100m),C1(18/09,5769m),C2(22/09,6307m),C3(29,6828m),C4(30/09,7454m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Tendi Sherpa (Snowy Horizon pmt)
routememo:
  Lapina and Pasang Tendi started their summit push at 2:15 am on 1 October from C4. The team got to the top at 8:15 am. They stayed on summit for 10 minutes and descended C4 at 10 am. They went down to C2 where they arrived around 2:30 pm.  Next day 2 October they went down to BC.

  Summit day weather was excellent. There were around six climbers ahead of Lapina team and behind probably 15 climbers.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Tendi


expid: AMAD09401
peakid: AMAD
year: 2009
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Pasang Tendi Sherpa
bcdate: 2009-12-18
smtdate: 2009-12-19
smttime: 1545
termdate: 2009-12-20
campsites: BC(18/09,4700m),Smt(19/12)
agency: None
routememo:
  From Pasang Tendi website:
    www.tendiguide.com/summit/

  Ama Dablam Summitted on 19 December 2009.

  I climbed solo. I just received the permit from the Government of Nepal to climb Ama Dablam. For the experience, I decided to climb Ama Dablam in one day, so I left BC in the morning at 5 am and then summitted at 3:45 pm and then I spent a night at camp two and the next day I got safely back to the base camp. It was a great and challenging experience making solo climb by myself in one day!


expid: MANA14319
peakid: MANA
year: 2014
route1: NE Face
nation: Canada
leaders: Caroline Jette
sponsor: Snowy Horizon International Manaslu Expedition 2014
countries: Germany, India
approach: Arughat->Jagat->Samagaon
bcdate: 2014-09-15
smtdate: 2014-10-01
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2014-10-03
campsites: BC(15/09,4770m),C1(18/09,5550m),C2(22/09,6400m),C3(29/09,6800m),C4(09/30,7450m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  Jette, Joisher, St. Germain and Dawa Temba reached summit at 7:30 am and stayed there for about an hour waiting for fellow climbers. Joisher and Nga Dorje reached summit at 7:47 am and Jette and Pema arrived at 8:15 am, both climbers and their Sherpas stayed on summit for about 15 minutes. St-Germain and Dawa Temba returned C4 at 09:30 am; last one Jette reached at 1 pm. They continued to C2 where they arrived at 4 pm. Next day 2 October all the climbers and Sherpas went down to BC. St. Germain and Dawa Temba were the first ones to reach to the summit on that day. Summit day weather was superb.

  Oxygen:
    Jette from C3-Summit-C3
    Joisher and St. Germain from C4-Summit-C4
    Sherpas not used.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Temba, Yaphu-9
    Pema
    Nga dorje, Makalu-9


expid: MANA14321
peakid: MANA
year: 2014
route1: NE Face
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Ladislav Nosek
sponsor: Czech Republic Manaslu Expeditin 2014
countries: Slovakia
bcdate: 2014-09-12
smtdate: 2014-10-01
smttime: 1000
campsites: BC(12/09,4800m),C1(5800m),C2,C3(25/09,6800m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  Translated by Google from Czech blog:
    http://www.lezec.cz/clanek.php?key=11951

  Paintings from the roof of the world
  Manaslu 2014

  Small minimalist five-member expedition to the first day of October to the summit of Manaslu looked at two: Thomas Hanicinec and Larry Ladislav Nosek ...

  I. 12.9. - Basecamp (4800m)

  So that's perhaps not! Scare staring at a broken rod from its single tent. The first five minutes of Basecamp and this. Resigned sink with head in hands in the wet stones, rain nedéšt. So let's summarize: Do I bejzu through fever, cough, runny nose, colds and do not know what the next dragged probably just a mistake, all the way raining, and it has to continue for a week, well, and now in addition the rod. Like when you go somewhere, so it is normal that sometimes something along. With that counts. But this expedition lasted fourteen days, and still there is nothing wrong at all. A top eighth highest mountain in the world is now therefore seems to be far away ...

  II. 25.9. - Camp 3 (6800m)

  It's snowing already incessantly for almost ten hours. Sometimes walks around the heavily cloaked figure with a large metal cylinders on their backs and disappearing somewhere below the seracs. Damn! So why is everyone so fired yesterday to four. The last day summit today and in the afternoon to close the window. Our window ... The trio stayed with us only the snow drifted stokilometrovými gusts and a sense of doom. We came on a bad day and later in the morning because of the revulsion we'll have to come down. Senior attack in the ass ... And yet I know that for me tomorrow to leave the mobs of desperate Austrians that his buddy has swelling of the brain and if I would not say not wait to have a GPS. And that is honestly recorded a track where we almost an hour to carve avalanche slopes in the metro New snow and excavating the burial markers ... Uff, so that's not. Perhaps someone else forces dig in one attempt.

  III. 1.10 - Peak (8156m)

  Overtaking me. The entire group. Like, I tried, but eight thousand, it is as if I went against a wall and kyslíkári did not give me a chance. So I'll be upstairs alone, as well. I take a picture with the camera. Yeah own camera! So I could shoot something while I'm here, right? The peak ridge necessary, it will look nice ... Oh, and the last few meters, especially the last meters! That shot, I prepared at home including what there in that moment of triumph I will do and say. And when it's over now for all the trouble still managed, only what he sighs between different Cheer is cut them into clumps motlitebních flags and breathe heavily. Even with a running camera. Moment of triumph ... but it was expected that it will go without water tough. Holt got it that I was on the night of quadruplets lazy cook. Well, the end of the meditation, it's time to go down ...

  To cut a long story short

  Of the five members of our expedition we are minimalist to the first day of October at the summit of Manaslu looked at two. I'm at about 10 am and Larry about one half. Both under almost ideal conditions.

  For those of you who would like to try first an eight is Manaslu think quite a good choice - it's not such a drbacka like Cho Oyu (tozn. A little bit there and climbs - ladders, cracks, ice and so), it is not well fixed, and certainly You happen to you that you were there yourself. Strongly I recommend at least one (positive) experience of sedmitisícovky, because otherwise simply do not know what you're getting. Compared to traditional 'commercial' sedmám (Lenin, Himlung, Khan, corset, etc.), it is about twice as physically demanding.

  Regarding total costs, so here we showed what we are really good and probably startling world record :-) We can do it and even climb under 80,000 bag of chips, but it's really extreme and Japanese permanently the supported on each side by one sash you will be the envy of the entire month. Next time I'd rather have some things added ...

  Special thanks to Martin, who made the trip invented and organized, Michal for my bag with food there as we had to leave, and complimentary line art and an unknown good man in a threesome what we pinched útocnej tent. Gradually growing selection of photos from me refer to photoplanet.


expid: MANA14323
peakid: MANA
year: 2014
route1: NE Face
nation: Norway
leaders: Toril Elvan
sponsor: Team Manaslu Norwegian Expedition 2014
bcdate: 2014-09-16
smtdate: 2014-09-25
termdate: 2014-09-29
othersmts: Summited Yala Peak (5500m)
campsites: BC(16/09,4900m),C1(),C2(6400m),C3(),C4(7460m),Smt(25/09)
agency: Seven Brothers Summiters
routememo:
  Translated by Google from Norwegian website blog:
    http://www.hoyfjellspesialisten.no/Manaslu.php

  TOP IS REACHED! CONGRATULATIONS!
  Expedition to Manaslu 8163 m. 3 Sept. - October 8, 2014
  Toril Elvan - Atle Heum - Kjetil Rønning Hansen

  01.oktober
  Toril, Atle and Kjetil are now in Kathmandu. They have had their flight their so they go home to Norway already tomorrow on October 2. They arrive Oslo Gardermoen 3rd October at. 13:30. Toril writes that it will be good to come back home after the hectic weeks in the mountains. We see well all looking forward to hear more about the tour and see pictures.

  On September 29,
  The team is now in Samagaon and they will in course of tomorrow fly by helicopter back to Kathmandu.
   
  27th September
  Talked to office in Kathmandu today, and they've got bekjed that everything is fine with the three. The group came to camp 2 yesterday and had to stay there because it came so much snow. Today they supposedly come to camp 1, and during the evening or early morning they come back to BC.

  25.september
  Just got told that the top of Manaslu is reached! It happened in the morning hours today, and all three are fine. They now rest in camp 4 (7459moh), and the plan is to come back to BC tomorrow. Coming back with more info during the day if I get further contact.

  24.september
  It has been very difficult with communication from Manaslu. Got today notified by the office in Kathmandu that everything is fine with the three. The overnight now camp2 (6400m), and they are supposedly well acclimatized already. Weather permitting, they will try their hand at the top tomorrow. Exciting! If this is not possible, then the original plan that they go down to BC and waiting for a weather window.

  16.september
  Now the whole expedition with Nima Gombu Sherpa spearheaded come to Manaslu BC. They had appeared a couple of good days in Kathmandu, before they flew by helicopter to Samagaon (approximately 3360mon). The next day they went to BC (about 4895moh). Was notified yesterday from Nima that all are in good shape in BC. Tomorrow, on September 17, they shall have the Puja, a Buddhist ceremony. Sherpas are Buddhists, and none of them goes on mountain without first obtaining the blessing as a Puja provides. During Puja incense, a llama asks and it is offered everything from beer to rice and biscuits. It's a long ceremony, which can last several hours. Western participants also tend to witness the ceremony.
       
  September 11th
  Was notified yesterday from Nima Gombu Sherpa that the three had reached the top of Yala Peak (5500m). Acclimation had gone fine, and they are in good shape.

  Today they sanynligvis come to Shebrubesi, and tomorrow they will reach Kathmandu.
  Just got contact with Toril via FB. It sounded like they had it good, and they look forward to a rest day in Kathmandu before flying towards Manaslu.


expid: PUTH14304
peakid: PUTH
year: 2014
route1: NE Face?
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Pavel Matousek
sponsor: Czech Putha Hiunchuli Expedition 2014
approach: Via Mu La
bcdate: 2014-09-18
smtdate: 2014-09-24
smttime: 1420
termdate: 2014-09-30
campsites: BC(18/09,4900m),C1(21/09,5340m),C2(22/09,5720m),C3(23/09,6600m),Smt(24,26/09)
agency: Campobase Treks
routememo:
  From Czech website (www.lezec.cz):

  The Czechs on top of Putha Hiunchuli (7246m)

  On the days of 24 and 26 Sept 2014 Antonín Belik and Pavel Matousek went from the north to the top of the Nepalese seven-thousand-meter peak Putha Hiunchuli (Dhaulagiri VII). Probably this is the first Czech summit.

  Both were members of the expedition Putha Hiunchuli 2014 CZ, which had the objective to climb this mountain that is located in the massif of the crest of the Dhaulagiri. The other participants and the height attained: Jindrich Pospísil 5340m (Camp 1), Petr Kral 7000m, Olga Novakova 7100m and Sarka Jegrova (trekker in our expedition) 5200m (under Camp 1).

  Olga and Pavel


  From Czech website (www.vrcholeni.cz):

  September 18, 2014

  The long march, but finally, at 4 pm (after 8 and a half hours) come to BC, 4900 m. Total decent place. There are a few tents  of a Japanese expedition (2 + accompaniment).

  September 19-20, 2014

  REST - Exploratory day. Usually in the evening thunderstorm and rains, but otherwise, especially in the morning the weather is nice. We pack up.

  September 21, 2014

  So let's go upstairs. Sarka accompany us until almost the C1 - 534 m. We build tents in a pile of mud, next to the glacier. It took us five hours, but we have enough.

  September 22, 2014

  Morning Jindra returns to BC, the other half of the 11 are coming along. Locally glaciers, sometimes after debris. Finally, at 18 o'clock on a rock next to a glacier at an altitude of 5720m build the C2. Very pleasant place.

  September 23, 2014

  So up again, this time purely glaciers. Trail and after a few shifts build C3 height 6200m. It is already showing problems with height and in the afternoon the weather deteriorates.

  September 24, 2014

  We start late, at 7 pm. It's an infinite distance. Tonda [Antonin] is the fastest and gradually escapes us. Tries and tries around 14:20 is at the top. It does not stay there very much and returns. Around 7000 meters Peter legs start to get tired and then returns. Olga still go a little higher. Tondu meet. The weather was pretty spoiled and increasingly freezing. Finally, we turn and go back to C3.

  September 25, 2014

  Morning Tonda and Peter (a little dark toes) go down. Originally we wanted to camp with Olga move higher, but the night was not good and Olga troubled health and we remain where we are.

  September 26, 2014

  We get up at 3, after 4 we start (still dark). Weather would have wished, but it freezes very, very strongly. Around noon, we are again at about 7000m. Olga is getting worse, and eventually with heavy heart stops and comes back. I continue. It does not have much height, but very, very far away. Only at 15:30 am at the top. It was a little spoiled by the weather, but they're still nice views. It is even seen Dhaulagiri (initially we thought it was II, but after clarification showed that alone I). Descent is quick (enough it breaks) and C3 come up in 18 hours. Waiting for me already quite nervous Olga - expected me earlier.

  September 27, 2014

  Olga descends to BC. It's a nuisance, but eventually we arrive in the evening. Along the way we meet a new great expedition of about 15 people and a correspondingly large (i.e., very numerous) accompaniment.


expid: MUST14301
peakid: MUST
year: 2014
route1: E Ridge-N Face (to 6135m)
route2: N Face-W Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Melissa Arnot
sponsor: Eddie Bauer First Ascents Mustang Expedition 2014
ascent1: 1st
bcdate: 2014-10-22
smtdate: 2014-11-02
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2014-11-06
campsites: BC(22/10,4937m),C1(26/10,5334m),C2(27/10,01/11,5672m),Smt(02/11)
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
othersmts:
  Attempted Mansail (MNSL-143-02); held permits for Mansail South (6248m) and Ghyun Himal I (6110m)(no attempts)

routememo:
  The three-member team flew from Kathmandu to Pokhara on 16 October. They took no Sherpas to help them in their exploration of a previously unclimbed area northwest of Lo Manthang in Upper Mustang on the border with Tibet. They succeeded in summiting one of them in the first ascent of 6195-meter Mustang Himal and made a serious attempt on Mansail, 6242 meters high.

  From Pokhara, they drove north-northeast to Jomsom, walked and drove north-northwest via Samura village and finally walked and skied to the last small village of Chung Chung (4270m) before their base camp. Chung Chung is above Lo Manthang and below the border crossing into Tibet. Their original plan was to climb three peaks clustered together: Mansail, Mansail South and Mustang Himal.

  On 22 October they made BC at 4937m in the southeast drainage below Mustang Himal. Four days later, their first high camp for Mustang Himal was pitched at 5334m in the same drainage. And the following night was spent in C2 at 5672m among rocks on the edge of a glacier.

  Now this attempt on Mustang Himal was aborted because of extremely deep snow, and the team moved east and north to the Nhubine Glacier to try to climb Mansail (6242m), a true border peak. On the 29th they got to 6125m, but here they were forced to turn back by the rock surface (below 6100m there was mixed rock and some snow, but above it was all exposed rock); they were not prepared for this technical rock climbing. Also by now it was after 4:00 pm, too late in the day to continue climbing upwards. They abandoned their attempt to scale Mansail and retreated to BC.

  They turned their attention once again to Mustang Himal: on 1 November they were back in C2 (5672m) and without fixing any rope, they ascended the slope of the North Face to the West Ridge at about 30 vertical meters below the top. On 2 November the three members left C2 at 8:30 am, were on the summit at 2:00 pm and returned to C2 at 5:30 pm in the perfect weather they had enjoyed almost every day of their climbing period. They were back in BC on the 4th and left it on 6th for Lo Manthang and the return trip to Kathmandu, including a miserable ride by tractor to Jomsom.


expid: MNSL14301
peakid: MNSL
year: 2014
route1: E Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yukiko Inoue
sponsor: Japanese Alpine Club (JAC) Mustang Expedition 2014
bcdate: 2014-09-20
smtdate: 2014-09-29
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2014-10-03
othersmts: Had permits for Mansail South (6248m) and Mustang Himal (6195m)
campsites: BC(20/09,4900m),C1(25/09,5500m),C2(27/09,5700m),Smt(29/09)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  From Japanese Alpine Club bulletin:
    http://jac.or.jp/authorba0a6/2014/09/a-women-students-expedition-team-successfully-scales-mt-mansail-in-mustang-nepal-for-the-first-time-.html    

  A women students' expedition team successfully scales Mt. Mansail in Mustang, Nepal, for the first time on September 29

  A women students' expedition team of the Japanese Alpine Club (JAC) succeeded in scaling the thus-far-unexplored 6242-meter-high Mt. Mansail in the Mustang Himal in Nepal on Monday, September 29, the expedition team reported to the JAC in Tokyo the same evening.

  According to the team's report via satellite telephone from the Camp 2, the team reached the peak at 1 pm local time (4:15 pm in Japan) on September 29 for the first time ever. The mountain was opened for climbing for the first time this year.

  It was snowing steadily when they reached the rocky peak from the north side of the mountain. It was clear when they left C2 at 5,684 meters on September 25 but began snowing on their way, according to the report.

  Those who achieved the feat are: Yukiko Inoue, leader of the expedition team (senior, Musashino University, Tokyo); Eri Hasegawa (22, senior, Soka University, Tokyo); Mariko Nakamura (22, senior, Tsukuba University, Ibaraki Prefecture); and Kei Taniguchi, 42, who accompanied them as adviser.

  The student climbers are all members of the JAC's Students Division. Another member of the team, Kaho Mishima (21, junior, Hirosaki University) who had been in a Kathmandu hospital since she arrived there, arrived at the Base Camp at 4888 meters to join the team, according to the report.

  They canceled the plan to scale two other peaks in the area, Mt. Mansail South (6251 meters) and Mt. Mustang Himal (6195 meters), because of the heavy snow. They returned to C2 at 5:15 pm local time Monday.

  The team, which left Japan on September 5, is expected to return to Kathmandu on October 10, and will return home on October 13.

  The JAC's Student Division has sent four expedition teams during the past 10 years to scale then unexplored 6000-plus-meter-high peaks.


expid: MANA14324
peakid: MANA
year: 2014
route1: NE Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Massimo Ruffini
sponsor: Unlimited Italian Manaslu Expedition 2014
bcdate: 2014-09-11
smtdate: 2014-10-01
smttime: 1109
termdate: 2014-10-04
campsites: BC(11/09),C1(17/09,5760m),C2(20/09,6400m),C3(30/09,7000m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Unlimited Sherpa Expeditions
routememo:
  From http://www.manaslu2014.com

  Posted on 01/10/2014

  Today, Wednesday, October 1, 2014 at 09.11 Nepalese time (7:24 am in the Collagna), Samuele has reached the summit of Manaslu at 8,163 meters. Ruffo has remained with him up to quota 7800 and then decide (bold choice, professional, but not easy) to rietrare to Camp 3 from where they left last night.

  At this time (10 am in Italy) Ruffo is already in tent in Camp 3 while Samuele is coming down to Camp 4 and will reach him soon to spend the night there.

  Posted on 09/30/2014

  They're [Samuele and Ruffo] good, are in Camp 3 at 7000 meters.

  Posted on 09/20/2014

  Camp 1 is all set and yesterday was also set up Camp 2 at 6400 meters, after a serac worthy of Everest, equipped with six stairs to be able to pass safely. Mauro, Ruffo and Sam are doing well after the night at high altitude and are determined to go back even further, to Camp 3, before descending again to the base camp.

  Posted on 09/19/2014

  Today, good weather, Sam, Ruffo, Mauro at C2 6400m. Dapo drops to Samagoun to post you a bit of photos and return tomorrow, and do not complain then!

  Update afternoon: Sam, Mauro and Ruffo are well, have set up C2 and tomorrow morning will rebound to evaluate the path to C3 and then return to base camp.

  Posted on 09/18/2014

  Tweet from Field 1: The first night in C1 has gone very well, excluding flooding the tent, now it's up to Sam, Ruffo and Mauro. The weather is beautiful!

  Posted on 10/09/2014

  We are ready to go up to the base camp, the weather is still uncertain, but we decided to pick up and place the field that will welcome in the next 24/25 days of Mountain with the capital "M". 


expid: TILI14302
peakid: TILI
year: 2014
route1: N side
nation: Spain
leaders: Lluis Rafols
sponsor: Spanish Tilicho Expedition 2014
termnote: Abandoned due to bad conditions (deep snow)
agency: Parbat Kailash Adventures Treks
routememo:
  The team abandoned the expeditions since conditions were not optimal for climbing [from team comments on Facebook].


expid: TUKU14301
peakid: TUKU
year: 2014
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Adriano Favre
sponsor: Aosta Valley Tukuche Peak Expedition, 2014
approach: By pplane to Jomsom->Marpha->Yak Kharka->Dhampus Col
bcdate: 2014-10-09
smtdate: 2014-10-12
termdate: 2014-10-17
termnote: Abandoned due to Cyclone Hudhud
campsites: BC(09/10,5050m),ABC(5500m),C1(12/10,5800m),xxx
agency: Campobase Treks
routememo:
  On 12 October Sete Tamang and Pasang Tamang left climbing gear and tents at 5800m.  The evening of 13 October around 8 pm storm started picking up and 14 October whole day snowing. Five French and one Australian trekkers were given shelter in the BC (they were heli-lifted on 16 October). Expedition member Monica [Aschei] left expedition on 13 October. Rest of the team left BC to Pokhara by heli on 17 October. They thought to go back, but due to bad weather conditions, they decided to abandon the expedition.

  Hired:
    Sete Tamang, 30/3/1970, Gorakhani-8
    Pasang Tamang, Tapting-8


  From Montagna.tv website:

  Italians Stranded in the Himalayas, 
    Adriano Favre: Wait for the helicopter
  October 16, 2014-10:01
  Author: Valentina d'Angella

  Four Italians are stuck in the Annapurna area of Nepal. They are Adriano Favre, head of the Valle d'Aosta mountain rescue, his son [Yannick], and two others. The four are fine, and have enough food for ten days and await for a helicopter to be rescued since there is too much snow on the ground. "We had a snowstorm of exceptional intensity, it snowed for 30 hours".

  According to what reported today by Ansa, the 4 Italians are going to Tukuche Peak, a peak of almost 7000 meters between the Annapurna massif and Dhaulagiri. Their base camp is about 5000 meters. Precipitation in the districts of Mustang and Manang began Monday, and continued until Wednesday: hundreds of tourists these days are in the area, in particular in the Annapurna Circuit, which is one of the preferred destinations for trekking in Nepal.


expid: PUTH14305
peakid: PUTH
year: 2014
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Thomas Rabl
sponsor: Bergspechte Putha Hiunchuli Expedition 2014
countries: Germany, Italy
approach: Nepalgunj->Kakkot->Pangzi
bcdate: 2014-09-24
smtdate: 2014-10-01
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2014-10-06
campsites: BC(24/09,4950m),C1(27/09,5450m),C2(29/09,5900m),C3(30/09,6300m),Smt(01/10)
accidents: HAPE, HACE, bruised thigh
agency: Kang Kora Treks
routememo:
  BC  24/09  4950m 
  C1  27/09  5450m
  C2  29/09  5900m
  C3  30/09  6300m [or 6500m?]
  Smt 01/10  by Monika Schmoltner at 4 pm.

  Team left C3 at 3 am. Weather was good and calm. Schmoltner was the only one to reach the summit. On the way down, she fell and badly bruised her thigh.

  From On Return report:
    Dietmar Moosbrugger, Highest Point: 6700m on 30/09, Problem: HACE
    Klaus Eikemeier, Highest Point: 5600m on 28/09, Problem: none
    Andreas Henkel, Highest Point: 5900m on 01/10, Problem: HAPE
    Friedrich Kaltner, Highest Point: 6700m on 30/09, Problem: none
    Bettina Gruenberger, Highest Point: 6700m on 03/10, Problem: none
    Karl Hittmaier, Highest Point: 6700m on 03/10, Problem: none
    Gabi Weixelbaumer, Highest Point: ca. 7100m on 01/10, Problem: none
    Carola Riedmeier, Highest Point: 6500m on 02/10, Problem: none
    Max Munninger, Highest Point: 6500m on 02/10, Problem: none
    Anita Del Barba, Highest Point: 6500m am 02/10, Problems: many
    Frieda Del Barba, Highest Point: 6500m am 02/10, Problems: many
    Thomas Rabl, Highest Point: 7063m am 03/10

  From Bergspechte website:

  Members:
    Monika Schmoltner (summited on 1 Oct)(injured thigh in descent near C1)
    Gabi Weixelbaumer (to 7100m on 1 Oct)
    Fritz Kaltner (smt attempt on 3 Oct to 6500m)
    Bettina Gruenbrugger (smt attempt on 3 Oct to 6700m)
    Karl Hittmaier (smt attempt on 3 Oct to 6700m)
    Andi Henkel (to C2, altitude)
    Dietmar Moosbrugger (to 6100m, altitude)
    Carola Reidmeier (to high camp on 2 Oct)
    Max Munniger (to high camp on 2 Oct)
    Thomas Rabl (smt attempt on 3 Oct to 7063m)
    Klaus Eikemeier (to C2, had enough)
    Anita Del Barba (to C2?)
    Frieda Del Barba (to C2?)

  Sherpas:
    Temba (to 7100m on 1 Oct)
    Saila (summited on 1 Oct with Monika?)
    Lhakpa (to 6700m on 3 Oct)
    Karma (to C2?)
    Bir (to 6700m on 3 Oct)
    Sane (to C2?)


expid: PUTH14303
peakid: PUTH
year: 2014
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Joan Cardona
sponsor: Catalan Putha Hiunchuli Expedition 2014
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(4900m),C1(5400m),xxx(6000m)
agency: Four Brothers Adventure Travel
routememo:
  From Desnivel.com:

  The Catalan expedition formed by the brothers Oriol (20 years) and Nil Cardona (24) with his father, Joan (56), Mireia Miro (26), Gerard Garreta (42), Marta Riba (42), Marta García (22), Gerard Vila (25) and Àlex Masdeu (35) have just returned from their expedition to Dhaulagiri 7 (7246m). They are all mostly mountain skiers, besides climbers and runners.

  The goal was to try an "easy" mountain of the Himalayas with the mountain skis and learn and live the experience of the high mountains, but bad weather conditions made the expedition a great lesson about how hard that is to make the summit.

  "We had one day of bad weather that was enough to spoil everything, that was the catastrophe," says Joan Cardona. The facts were these: was a storm in the Bay of Bengal, which resulted in a devastating typhoon that fell in the area of the Dhaulagiri where they were and left more than one meter of snow from the 4500 meters.

  {Subsequently, the team was only able to climb up to 6000m due to the deep snow.]


expid: NANG14301
peakid: NANG
year: 2014
route1: S Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: David Berther
sponsor: Back Country Nangamari 2014
ascent1: 2nd
smtdate: 2014-11-17
campsites: BC(4850m),C1(5200m),Smt(17/11)
agency: Trip Himalaya Treks
routememo:
  From Trip Himalaya website:

  The first climb on Nangamari I expedition was made by a Swiss team led by David Berther and Remo Decurtins in the autumn of 2015. 

  Resident of Switzerland as member of Trip Himalaya Treks Nangamari Expedition 2014 team lead by David Berther has successfully climbed 6547 meter high Nangamari I on 17 November 2014 including Nepali climbing guide Tulshing Gurung and Hira Lal Gurung.

  [Note: An Australian team led by Timothy McCartney-Snape made the first ascent of Nangamari in Autumn 2010. At the time, they thought they were climbing Pabuk Kang (6244m).]


expid: PATR14301
peakid: PATR
year: 2014
route1: N Face
nation: UK
leaders: Bradley Morrell
sponsor: Bradley and Alek's Patrasi Faces Expedition
approach: Jumla->Chaudhabise Khola
bcdate: 2014-10-24
smtdate: 2014-10-30
termdate: 2014-11-05
termnote: Abandoned at 5400m due to route unsuitability
campsites: BC(24/10,4200m),xxx(30/10,5400m)
agency: Adventure Thamserku
routememo:
  Patrasi Expedition report:
    https://www.thebmc.co.uk/media/files/international/2014%20expeditions/2014-12-04%20Nepal%202014%20Expedition%20report%20FINAL%20(no%20numpties).pdf                                                                              
  Summary:

  On the 13th of October 2014, this lightweight Anglo-Russian expedition, sponsored by the Alpine Club and the BMC, set off to the Upper Dolpo region of Nepal in order to attempt to climb the fifteen hundred meter north face of Patrasi (6450m) in the Kanjiroba Himal. Following a seven day approach (four with porters, three without) from Jumla by the Chaudhabise Khola via col 4942, a basecamp was established at roughly 4200m at the head of the Chyandayng Khola on the 24th of October and following reconnaissance, an attempt on the face made, despite snow conditions which may be inadequately described as horrific.

  The attempt was subsequently aborted at around 5400m on the 30th of October on account of one of the expedition members acquiring mildly frostbitten toes. Following a five day rest and recovery period, the expedition made an exploratory retreat down the Chyandayng Khola to avoid exposing the toes to potential refreezing on col 4942. In the process, the unsuitability of this route for approaches and retreats to the north face of the mountain was confirmed. The expedition team followed the Mugu Karnali and arrived at Talchi airport on the 12th of November.

  The expedition subsequently returned to the UK safely on the 17th of November as planned. With the exception of the unseasonal storm between 14th and 16th of October and moderate snowfall on the 25th and 26th of October, the weather was fair, with almost no cloud or precipitation. Snow conditions resembled something between Tian Shan summer and alpine winter. Most equipment, with the notable exception of footwear, exceeded expectation. Medical conditions suffered by expedition members included mild altitude sickness, frostnip, frostbite, generalised inflammation of the foot, local cuisine and really bad jokes.


expid: AMAD15101
peakid: AMAD
year: 2015
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Michael Groom
sponsor: Australian Ama Dablam Expedition 2015
countries: New Zealand
bcdate: 2015-04-23
smtdate: 2015-05-05
termdate: 2015-05-08
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to deep snow and old tangled ropes
campsites: BC(23/04,4570m),C1(26/04,5700m),C2(27/04,5900m),xxx(05/05,6300m)
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
routememo:
  The route normally is mainly rock climbing up to C2, but because of the "excessive amount of snow, it was a completely different climb with deep snow from BC....We found during our stay in the Khumbu the weather to be completely unpredictable this season."

  "We left C2 at 3:00 am on the 5th of May and took six hours to climb the Grey Tower, a climb that should have only taken 2.5 hours. Deep snow and a tangle of old fixed ropes made it difficult to climb safely. We reached the top of the Mushroom Ridge (6300m) at 9:00 am and decided the conditions were going to make it difficult to get to the summit and back safely, so we turned around. Later that morning the weather changed for the worse, and it seemed like we had made the right decision."

  The top of the ridge was the team's high point. It was reached by Groom, Morgans, Robson, Sharp and Tucker, plus Lal Singh and Furba Tamang. That same day, 5th of May, they returned to C1, on the 6th they removed all their equipment to BC, and on the 8th they left BC.

  Farmer never reached BC. He developed cerebral edema during the approach march and left the team by helicopter from Pheriche. Oxygen was used by Farmer at Pheriche Hospital.


expid: ANN115101
peakid: ANN1
year: 2015
route1: N Face
nation: Iran
leaders: Reza Shahlaee
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Annapurna I Expedition 2015
countries: China, Finland, Macedonia, Turkey
approach: Pokhara, from Tatopani to BC by helicopter
bcdate: 2015-03-02
smtdate: 2015-03-24
smttime: 1515
termdate: 2015-03-28
campsites: BC(02/03,4100m),C1(05/03,5100m),C2(09-10/03,5600m),C3(22/03,6500m),C4(23/03,6750m),Smt(24/03)
agency: Dreamers Destination Treks
routememo:
  BC  02/03  4100m
  C1  05/03  5100m
  C2  09/10  5600m
  C3  22/03  6500m
  C4  23/03  6750m
  Smt 24/03  Shahlaee, Dejanovic, Dong, Irmak, Liu, Mansikka, Shahlaee, Zhang, 
             Mingma Gyalje, Nima Ongchu, Nima Gyalzen, Kaji, Angeli, Pemba 
             between 3:15 pm and 4 pm.

  Team left C4 at 12:30 am. Weather was clear and calm. The first 300m of the climb had fixed rope; however, afterwards the team split in groups of 6 and 7 and moved on a main rope together. The ascent was straightforward and the group reached the summit between 3:15 pm and 4 pm. They stayed for about 15 minutes to take pictures.

  On the descent they used three main ropes to abseil down, which with 13 people took quite some time. When they reached 7400m at about 11:30 pm on 24 March, they were all very tired and decided to wait for the sun to come up. Mansikka and Pemba Sherpa continued their descent, however, without a rope. Shahlaee saw the headlamps from his spot at 7400m, but all of a sudden at about 3 am they were gone. The assumption is that Pemba Sherpa took a fall, bumped into Mansikka and they both fell to their deaths. On 26 March a helicopter came to look for the bodies and could identify them an altitude of about 7100m. It was impossible to retrieve them.

  The 11 team members and Sherpas, who rested at 7400m waited for the sun to rise and continued down at about 6 am. After many abseils, they reached C4 at 10 am. Everyone stayed C4 and continued on 26 March. Apart from Irmak and Ngima, who stayed at C2, everyone descended to BC where they arrived at 8 pm on 26 March. Irmak and Ngima reached BC on 27 March.

  The Spanish doctor Carlos visited their camp and helped them for frostbite and bandaged them. On 28 March a helicopter came and picked up the team.

  Oxygen: 		
    Taken and used: from C4 to summit to C4 by Dejanovic, Dong, Irmak, Liu, Zhang,
      Nima Gyalzen, Kaji, Ang Geli and Pemba 
    Not taken, not used: Shahlaee, Mansikka, Mingma Gyalje and Nima Ongchu did not 
     use oxygen

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Sherpa, 28/2/1980, Sankhuwasabha, Makalu-5
    Mingma Gyalje, 14/4/86, Beding, Dolakha
    Nima Gyalzen, 9/8/1985, Beding, Dolakha
    Nima Ongchhu Sherpa, 15/12/2041, Solukhumbu, Chaurikharka-8
    Kaji Sherpa, 15/2/2028, Sagarmatha, Solukhumbu, Tapting-9
    Ang Geli Sherpa, 20/11/2043, Janakpur, Dolakha, Gaurishankar-6

accidents:
  Irmak frostbite on all 10 toes; Dejanovic frostbite on 3 fingers of left hand; Ang Geli frostbite on 5 fingers of right hand; Mansikka and Pemba Sherpa fatal fall at 7100m.


expid: CHOY15101
peakid: CHOY
year: 2015
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Daniel Fuller
sponsor: SummitClimb Cho Oyu Expedition 2015
countries: Australia, Austria, Germany, Romania, USA
bcdate: 2015-04-22
smtdate: 2015-04-27
termdate: 2015-05-30
termnote: Abandoned at 5200m due to earthquake
campsites: BC(22/04,4900m),xxx(27/04,5200m)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  Despite the fact that on 25 April there had been an earthquake that was disastrous for teams on the Nepalese side of Everest, this team was not aware of any serious problems on the Tibet side of Cho Oyu. They had arrived at Chinese BC for Cho Oyu on 22 April, and on the 27th all members except Merritt trekked about 300 meters up a hill from BC and returned to BC that day.

  The 28th was a rest day, and they learned then that the Chinese authorities had cancelled all climbs in Tibet because of the earthquake. So on the 30th they left BC and went by road to Tingri and on to Lhasa. They spent two nights in Lhasa and on 3 May flew back to Kathmandu.


expid: CHOY15102
peakid: CHOY
year: 2015
route1: NW side
nation: India
leaders: Debasish Biswas
sponsor: Cho Oyu, Everest & Lhotse 2015
bcdate: 2015-04-20
smtdate: 2015-04-24
termdate: 2015-05-02
termnote: Abandoned at 5200m due to earthquake
campsites: BC(20/04,4850m),ABC(24/04,5650m),xxx(24/04,5650m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  20/04  4850m
  ABC 24/04  5650m	
  HPt 24/04  5650m by Biswas.

  When the earthquake hit at about 11:50 am Nepali time, Biswas was in the dining tent, writing his dairy. It was a severe vibration and lasted for about a minute. He instantly came out and called the other members as they were all inside their tents. There was a strong wind at ABC and it took them a while to realize that this was an earthquake. Biswas was scared about the serac that was towering above their tent, but luckily nothing happened. He could then hear the sound of avalanches from the eastern slopes, which were far away.

  They had to abandon the climb due to the Chinese Authority's decision to stop mountaineering for the season in Tibet.


expid: EVER15168
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Garrett Madison
sponsor: Madison Mountaineering Everest Expedition 2015
countries: Australia, Brazil, Guatemala, Germany, India, Japan, Norway
bcdate: 2015-04-13
smtdate: 2015-04-25
termdate: 2015-04-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to earthquake
othersmts: Attempted Lhotse (LHOT-151-04)
campsites: BC(13/04),C1(22/04,6000m),C2(25/04,6500m),xxx(25/04,6500m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  All members except Brier, Nissen and BC doctor Girawong, spent the nights of 25 and 26 April with 16 Sherpas at C2 (6500m) because the earthquake on the 25th had cut the climbing route and left them stranded. On the 27th they trekked down to C1 and were picked up from there by a helicopter and flown to BC. From there they trekked down to Gorak Shep; some members, including the two who intended to scale Lhotse. flew from Gorak Shep to Lukla and flew to Kathmandu via Biratnagar; the others trekked to Lukla and flew to Kathmandu directly.

  The BC doctor, Marisa Eve Girawong, a physician's assistant specializing in emergency medicine, was killed by the earthquake-triggered avalanche in BC on 25 April.


expid: EVER15112
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Slovakia
leaders: Slavomir Fila
sponsor: Slovak Expedition to Everest 2015
countries: Argentina, Canada, India, Mexico, Pakistan, Poland
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2015-04-13
smtdate: 2015-04-17
termdate: 2015-05-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to earthquake in Nepal
campsites: BC(13/04,5200m),ABC(17/04,6400m),xxx(17/04,6400m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  13/04  5200m
  ABC 17/04  6400m
  HPt 17/04  6400m at ABC by all team members.

  The team was at ABC when the earthquake happened. They abandoned the climb on 29 April, the day the Chinese authorities decided to close down all mountains.


expid: EVER15122
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Phil Crampton
sponsor: Altitude Junkies Everest Expedition 2015
countries: Australia, Czech Republic, Guatemala, New Zealand, S Africa
bcdate: 2015-04-11
smtdate: 2015-04-23
termdate: 2015-05-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to earthquake
campsites: BC(11/04,5250m),C1(6000m),C2(6400m),xxx.Mbrs(23/04,5900m),xxx.Shrpas(23-24/04,6400m)
agency: Expedition Himalaya
routememo:
  No members had ventured far above BC before the earthquake struck the area on 25 April and triggered avalanches. But on 23 April all Everest (and Lhotse) members, plus 9 Sherpas, did go to just below C1 (to 5900m) and returned to BC the same day.

  The team had a C1 at 6000m, but no one slept in it. All 14 of the expedition's climbing Sherpas carried loads to C2 (6400m) on the 20th and 24th and trekked back to BC. The team's two cooks/kitchen boys, Pemba Ngatar Sherpa and Pasang Lakpa Sherpa, also went up to C2 on the 20th and stayed there. During the earthquake, many crevasses opened up between C1 and C2 making it necessary to evacuate the kitchen staff by helicopter; they flew out to BC on the 27th.

  On the day after it was decided to abandon the climb, and the members left BC on 1 May. They trekked to Pheriche, from where they flew by helicopter to Lukla. They went from there by plane to Biratnagar and thence to Kathmandu. The leader left BC on 3 May: he found a seat in a helicopter going directly to Kathmandu.

  The team's only casually was Barbara Padilla, who suffered some broken teeth when she fell while running to a tent to take cover from an advancing avalanche on 25 April.


expid: EVER15159
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Guy Cotter
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Everest 2015
countries: Australia, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, USA
bcdate: 2015-04-12
smtdate: 2015-04-22
termdate: 2015-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to earthquake
campsites: BC(12/04,5300m),C1(24/04,6100m),C2(22-23/04,6400m),xxx
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  The expedition occupied BC at 5350m on 12 April, and all the members established C1 at 6100m on 24 April. They were forced to stay there by the disaster of the earthquake on 25 April that caused devastating avalanching from Pumori. Seven members were evacuated from C1 to BC by helicopter on 26 April and the rest of the members the next day.

  Some of the load-carrying Sherpas went up to C2 at 6400m and slept there, but none of the members moved above C1.

  Six of their Sherpas were killed by the avalanches: five on the day of the earthquake, 25 April, and one died in Kathmandu on the 30th from his injuries. They were:

    Chhimi Dawa Sherpa, 26/8/67, Bung-9, Solu
    Dawa Chhiri Sherpa, 25/11/89, Chaurikharka, Solu
    Jangbu Sherpa, cook, 9/5/61, Taksindu-5, Solu (died in Kathmandu)
    Milan Rai, kitchen staff, 9/5/73, Bung-4, Solu
    Pemba Sherpa, cook, 25/2/96, Taksindu-5, Solu
    Pemba Yish (Hissi) Sherpa, 31/1/82, Bung-9, Solu

  Most of the team's members left BC by helicopter on 30th April; the leader and three members walked to Lukla and flew in a plane from there to Kathmandu.

  Two Sherpas were seriously injured by the quake; they and 7 others were evacuated by helicopter.

  Note: Cotter, Smith and Wells held permis for both Everest and Lhotse.


expid: EVER15160
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Ryan Waters
sponsor: Mountain Professionals Everest Expedition 2015
countries: Norway, Sweden
bcdate: 2015-04-12
smtdate: 2015-04-24
termdate: 2015-05-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to earthquake
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),C1(14/04,6100m),xxx(24/04,6100m)
agency: Himalayan Trailblazer
routememo:
  The team established BC on 12 April, and C1 was occupied on the 24th by all 4 Everest members and their only Lhotse climber in their brief acclimatization climb.  They descended to BC in the morning of the 25th, a few hours before the earthquake struck.

  Fortunately they had pitched their BC close to the foot of the Khumbu Icefall, so it was not damaged by the avalanching triggered by the earthquake that destroyed camps farther away from the Icefall. All their tents were undamaged except for the shower tent, which had been tied down and therefore ripped.

  The team stayed in BC until 1 May and then trekked to Lukla and flew to Kathmandu on the 4th.


expid: EVER15129
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dennis Broadwell
sponsor: Mountain Gurus Everest Expedition 2015
bcdate: 2015-04-09
smtdate: 2015-04-23
termdate: 2015-04-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to avalanche triggered by earthquake
campsites: BC(09/04,5350m),C1(20/04,6100m),xxx(23/04,6500m)
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  All members occupied C1 (6100m) on 23 April and next day climbed up to the site of C2 (6400m), but returned to C1 for the night. On the 25th the earthquake triggered avalanching off Pumori at 11:55 am. The team had descended to BC at 11:40 am.

  They abandoned their attempt to climb Everest, but they spent three nights in their BC, which was at the top end of the base camps and was undamaged. They helped during these next days in the efforts to rescue climbers who were trapped in and above BC.

  On the 27th they trekked to Pheriche and from there flew by helicopter to Lukla.  On 1 May they reached Kathmandu by plane.


expid: EVER15105
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: David O'Brien
sponsor: SummitClimb Everest in Tibet Expedition 2015
countries: Australia, Sweden, USA
bcdate: 2015-04-13
smtdate: 2015-04-24
termdate: 2015-05-04
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to earthquake in Nepal
campsites: BC(13/04,5200m),ABC(24/04,6400m),xxx(24/04,6400m)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  All 12 members moved into ABC at 6400m on 24 April and were there when the earthquake caused the earth to shake the next day at midday. Fortunately, the north side of the mountain suffered from no avalanching or any other misfortune. The team descended to Chinese BC (5200m) on the 26th.

  On the 28th, the China Tibet Mountaineering Association informed Everest climbers that all climbing within Tibet was officially "terminated" during the 2015 spring season because of the earthquake; the written version of this announcement was dated 1 May. On 3 May, yaks brought the team's equipment downt to BC; on the 4th they were driven to Shigatse and on the 5th to Lhasa. They flew to Kathmandu on the 8th.

  From SummitClimb website:

  The season began in early April, after a snowy winter. The snow continued to fall lightly through the middle of April and the temperatures remained moderate. Our teams began arriving in Tibet on 9 April. An initial acclimatization cycle brought the team up to 6400 metre / 21,000 foot high Advanced Base Camp, from which an attempt to reach the 7000 metre / 23,000 foot high North Col (camp 1) was launched. On 25 April, a 7.5 earthquake hit the region. Although very few, if any, effects of the earthquake were felt on the Tibet side of Everest, the China Tibet Mountaineering Association chose to end the climbing season and bring everone home, due to casualties and infrastructure effects elsewhere in Tibet and also in Nepal, where many of the mountain staff are from. 


expid: EVER15140
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Africa
leaders: Ronnie Muhl
sponsor: Adventures Global Everest Expedition 2015
countries: Australia, Nepal
bcdate: 2015-04-09
smtdate: 2015-04-09
termdate: 2015-04-27
termnote: Abandoned at base camp due to earthquake
campsites: BC(09/04,5350m),xxx
agency: Dream Himalaya Adventures
routememo:
  BC  09/04  5350m
  HPt 09/04  5350m by all members of expedition.

  Team was at BC when the avalanche occurred. They got dusted and Lhakpa Nuru cut his hand and dislocated his shoulder. On the day of the avalanche the entire team went down to Gorak Shep and spent 2 nights there. They went back up to BC, packed their bags, left BC and trekked to Deboche and Namche Bazar. They were still unsure whether they would go back to BC. The final decision on abandoning the climb was made at 1 May in Namche Bazar.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Nuru, 30 November 1987, Gudel-5, Solukhumbu

  Note: Ms. Chhurim Dolma Sherpa (Philips Hughes Yatra Sagarmatha Expedition 2015) joined up with this team. She was intending to take the bat and jersey of the late Australian cricketer, Phillip Hughes, to the summit of Everest.


expid: EVER15115
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Richard Cartier
sponsor: Mellow Yellow Everest Expedition 2015
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2015-04-10
smtdate: 2015-04-23
termdate: 2015-05-02
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to avalanche triggered by earthquake
campsites: BC(10/04,5350m),C2(23/04,6400m),xxx(23/04,6400m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  10/04  5350m 
  C2  23/04  6400m	
  HPt 23/04  6400m at C2 by Cartier.

  Cartier spent two nights at C2 for acclimatization purposes. During the earthquake he was coming down the Icefall. A big tower of ice, 10 meters of diameter and 25 meters high, collapsed about 20 meters from where he was standing. Also he got a big blow of wind from an avalanche coming down Nuptse West Face that was triggered by the earthquake. He continued to BC the same day.

  He abandoned the expedition when the Under Armour expedition pulled the plug. If the Icefall doctors had come back and took care again of the Icefall, he would have continued his expedition.


expid: EVER15158
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Rolfe Oostra
sponsor: 360 Everest/Lhotse 2015
countries: UK
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2015-04-15
smtdate: 2015-04-25
termdate: 2015-04-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to avalanche triggered by earthquake
campsites: BC(15/04,5350m),C1(25/04,6100m),xxx(25/04,6100m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  15/04  5350m
  C1  25/04  6100m	
  HPt 25/04  6100m by Oostra and Bradshaw.

  Oostra and Bradshaw had just arrived at C1 and were setting up their tent. A huge roar could be heard all around them and then the earth shook. Bradshaw thought a crevasse was opening up underneath her in the tent. She shot outside to join Oostra. The earth shook for about 30 seconds as well as spindrift snow blasts from the various avalanches coming off the Western Shoulder and Nuptse. No visibility. They were helicoptered back to BC on 27 April.

  Oostra and Bradshaw were sharing BC services with Henry Todd, who lost three Sherpas in the avalanche that was triggered by the earthquake.

  Oostra and Bradshaw held permits for both Everest and Lhotse.


expid: EVER15120
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Jamie McGuinness
sponsor: Project Himalaya Everest Expedition 2015
countries: Australia, France, Japan, Singapore
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2015-04-16
smtdate: 2015-04-23
termdate: 2015-05-01
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to earthquake in Nepal
campsites: BC(16/04,5100m),ABC(20/04,6400m),xxx(23/04,7000m)
agency: Expedition Himalaya
routememo:
  BC  16/04  5100m
  ABC 20/04  6400m 
  HPt 23/04  7000m at North Col by Tran Van Hao for acclimatization.

  Team was at ABC during the earthquake. They felt the strong shakes, but not particularly violent.


expid: EVER15137
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Adrian Ballinger
sponsor: Alpenglow Expeditions Everest North 2015
countries: Japan, USA
bcdate: 2015-04-25
smtdate: 2015-04-25
termdate: 2015-05-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to earthquake in Nepal
campsites: BC(25/04,5100m),xxx(25/04)
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  BC  25/04  5100m
  HPt 25/04  5100m at BC by Ballinger, Warren, Carney, Seiwald, Osoro, Linville,
             Medvetz, Hiraide.

  Team arrived at CBC on the day the earthquake hit. They went no higher as Chinese authorities announced the closure of all mountains for the season.


expid: EVER15109
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Luis Stitzinger
sponsor: Go Climb a Mountain Everest 2015
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2015-04-15
smtdate: 2015-04-22
termdate: 2015-04-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to earthquake in Nepal
campsites: BC(15/04,5160m),IC(21/04,5780m),xxx(22/04,6000m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  15/04  5160m
  IC  21/04  5780m
  HPt 22/04  6000m by Von Melle and Stitzinger.

  When the earthquake happened, the team was at CBC.


expid: EVER15116
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Gillian Lee
sponsor: Gillian Lee Everest Spring 2015
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2015-04-11
smtdate: 2015-04-25
termdate: 2015-04-28
termnote: Abandoned at 5950m due to avalanche triggered by earthquake
campsites: BC(11/04,5350m),xxx(25/04,5950m)
accidents: Lee tore muscle in chest
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  11/04  5350m	
  HPt 25/04  5950m just short of C1 by Lee.

  Lee was in the Icefall when the avalanche happened. He was just below C1, but was unhurt. However, when he helped carry a person down to BC, he tore a muscle in his chest. They descended to BC and decided to abandon the expedition after it became clear that the Icefall doctors were not going to refix the Icefall.


expid: EVER15135
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Ranveer Singh Jamwal
sponsor: Ranveer Singh Jamwal Indian Army Everest-Lhotse Massif Exped 2015
countries: Nepal
bcdate: 2015-04-20
smtdate: 2015-04-23
termdate: 2015-05-04
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to earthquake
campsites: BC(20/04,5200m),C2(23/04,6400m),xxx
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  The Indian army mounted a large effort to scale Everest and Lhotse with 22 climbing members (16 Indian citizens and 6 Nepalese) from various army regiments, plus eight men from the Army Adventure Wing to assist in administration. Morever, two of the climbers, Ranveer Singh Jamwal and Hajari Lal, planned to summit Everest, descend to the South Col and summit Lhotse.

  But despite the meticulous planning and climbers high hopes, it all came to naught when on 25 April a serious earthquake triggered fatal avalanching off of Pumori and Nuptse that devastated the Khumbu Valley. After-shocks continued for some time, and when this team left BC on 4 May, Pumori was still avalanching. A large part of Everest's base camp area was obliterated, but this team's camp was safe.

  10 Sherpas had carried loads to C2 and marked out this team's camp area on 23 April. They were safely back in BC on the 25th. Jamwal, the leader, told his members on 27-28 April that he did not think it would be possible to do any more climbing this season, and when it was clear that no one would be refixing the route up to C2, he formally decided to abandon the climb on 4 May.


expid: EVER15152
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Melissa Arnot
sponsor: Melissa Arnot Everest Expedition 2015
bcdate: 2015-04-27
termdate: 2015-05-01
termnote: Abandoned at 5350m due to earthquake
campsites: BC(27/04,5350m),xxx
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  The team was one of the last to go to BC. Their plan was to attempt Lobuche East to acclimatize and used Lobuche Lodge as their base for this climb without Sherpa help. But they arrived there on the day of the earthquake, 25 April, so they did no climbing on Lobuche East or Everest. On the 27th they walked back to Everest BC to pack up all their belongings at a BC that had been devastated, and went on to Pangboche. On 1 May they flew by helicopter to Lukla, flew by plane to Biratnagar, and from there to Kathmandu on the same day.


expid: EVER15101
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Nima Namgyal Sherpa
sponsor: Asian Trekking Eco-Everest Expedition 2015
countries: Australia, Belgium, China, Denmark, France, India, Mexico, S Africa
approach: Thami->Pheriche
bcdate: 2015-04-22
smtdate: 2015-04-25
termdate: 2015-04-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to avalanche triggered by earthquake
campsites: BC(22/04,5350m),C1(25/04,6100m),C2(25/04,6300m),xxx(25/04,6300m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  22/04  5350m
  C1  25/04  6100m by Rashid, Kumar and Maila Magar (cook)
  C2  25/04  6300m
  HPt 25/04  6300m by Khumalo, Freeman, Veyt, Murmu, Gupta, Arvind, Liano, Luitel,
             Pederson, Canderle.

  High point team was at C2 during the earthquake. David Liano describes it as follows: "It was overcast, but following the first ground movement, a massive avalanche broke off Nuptse. Then the ground really started shaking and we could see, but mostly hear, avalanches being released from Nuptse, Lhotse, Everest (lots of rockfall from the west face) and the West Shoulder. Many seracs collapsed from the West Shoulder. The team was picked up by helicopter in between C1 and C2 and flown back to BC on 27 April. Nobody got hurt."

  Rashid, Kumar and Mangar were at C1 when the avalanche happened. They were picked up by helicopter from C1 on April 27th and flown back to BC.

  Loveraj was at BC during the avalanche as well as the Leader/Doctor/Base Camp Manager, Dr. Nima Sherpa, Carsten Lillelund Pedersen (Denmark) and Jelle Veyt (Belgium) and seven members of the kitchen staff. The whole base camp of Asian Trekking survived intact.


expid: EVER15106
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Greg Vernovage
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Everest 2015
countries: Australia, Canada, Germany, Italy, Mexico, Morocco
bcdate: 2015-04-12
smtdate: 2015-04-25
termdate: 2015-05-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to earthquake
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),C1(23/04,6100m),C2(25/04,6500m),xxx(28/04,6500m)
agency: Beyul Adventure
routememo:
  This large Everest/Lhotse expedition, with 36 climbing members and 30 climbing Sherpas, set up two camps above BC: C1 at the top of the Icefall and C2 in the Western Cwm, which were occupied by 10 Sherpas and 10 members. Bunce, Connally, Hess, Hota, Merle, Pastor, Penson, Polloczek, Pottinger and Williamson moved to C1 on 23 April and to C2 two days later, on the 25th.

  Then at midday on the 25th a major earthquake struck the area. IMG's C2 was untouched, and its occupants stayed there for two nights; on the 27th they walked down to C1 and a helicopter picked them up and flew them to BC the same day.

  Also on the 27th, the expedition's leadership decided to abandon the climb because of the risk of serious aftershocks. On the 29th, the expedition trekked to Lukla to wait for available flights to Kathmandu, where all of them had landed by 5 May.


expid: EVER15110
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: N Face (Great Couloir)
nation: Germany
leaders: Ralf Dujmovits
sponsor: The Great Couloir Everest North Expedition
countries: Canada
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2015-04-15
smtdate: 2015-04-26
termdate: 2015-05-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to earthquake in Nepal
campsites: BC(15/04,5200m),ABC(26/04,6400m),xxx(26/04,6400m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  15/04  5200m
  ABC 26/04  6400m
  HPt 26/04  6400m at ABC by Dujmovits and Hansen.

  Team was enroute to intermediate camp when earthquake hit, about one hour out of CBC. There was a lot of rockfall coming down from the eastern slopes and they had to run for cover. They carried on to intermediate camp and then ABC on 26 April. They waited for 3 days, but were told that the mountain was closed on 29 April. They left ABC on 30 April.


expid: EVER15124
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiroyuki Kuraoka
sponsor: Mountain Experience Everest 2015 in Nepal
countries: France
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2015-04-18
smtdate: 2015-04-24
termdate: 2015-05-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to earthquake
campsites: BC(18/04,5200m),ABC(24/04,6400m),xxx(24/04,6400m)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  BC  18/04  5200m
  ABC 24/04  6400m
  HPt 24/04  6400m at ABC by all team members.

  The team was at ABC when the earthquake struck. They were all in their tents having a nap.


expid: EVER15125
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: David Hamilton
sponsor: Jagged Globe Everest Expedition 2015
countries: Australia, Germany, Ireland, Italy, USA
bcdate: 2015-04-10
smtdate: 2015-04-20
termdate: 2015-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to earthquake and avalanche
campsites: BC(10/04,5300m),C1(12/04,6100m),C2(20,24/04,6400m),xxx.Shrpas
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  High point at 6100m at top of Icefall by all the members.

  This team was one of the early arrivals at BC: they reached it on 10 April and occupied C1 at 6100m two days later. This was the highest point any members reached.

  The avalanches of rocks and ice blocks off of Pumori triggered by the earthquake on 25 April destroyed the area where their BC was pitched, and the whole camp was wiped out. One member, Dan Fredinberg, was killed and four Sherpas were injured.

  Load-carrying Sherpas reached C1 (6100m) and C2 (6400m) on 20 and 24 April. Five Sherpas who got to C2 had to be evacuated to BC by helicopter on the 27th. (They were the only people from this expedition to sleep in C2).


expid: EVER15126
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Richard Gale
sponsor: Himalayan Odyssey Expedition Spring 2015
countries: Nepal
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2015-04-14
smtdate: 2015-04-25
termdate: 2015-04-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6110m due to earthquake
campsites: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(25/04,6110m),xxx(25/04,6110m)
accidents: Pneumonia by Rice
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  BC  14/04  5350m
  C1  25/04  6110m
  HPt 25/04  6110m by all members apart from Rana, Gurung Subarna, Gurung Shakti
             and Rice.

  The high point team was at C1 when the earthquake happened. They saw several big avalanches coming down, but they were safe and unaffected. On 27 April they were picked up by helicopter and taken BC.

  Rana, Subarna Gurung, and Shakti Gurung reached 5900m at 11 am on 25 April. As they were too slow, Gale told them to turn back to BC, so they did. When the avalanche happened they were still in the Icefall but fine and after the dust had settled down they continued to BC. When they got down they found that their whole camp was wiped out; however, their BC manager and 3 kitchen staff were fine.

  Rice never managed to get out of BC. He was suffering from pneumonia and left on 17 April.

  During the time of the avalanche, 7 Sherpas were at C2 and 9 Sherpas were in the Icefall. No injuries.


expid: LHOT15101
peakid: LHOT
year: 2015
route1: W Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Javier Camacho Gimeno
sponsor: Spanish Lhotse Spring 2015
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2015-04-19
termdate: 2015-04-28
termnote: Abandoned at 5350m due to avalanche triggered by earthquake
campsites: BC(19/04,5350m),xxx
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Camacho and Fernandez were at BC when the avalanche happened. They helped some injured people for a few days and left on 28 April.


expid: LHOT15102
peakid: LHOT
year: 2015
route1: W Face
nation: Poland
leaders: Wojciech Flaczynski
sponsor: Polish Family Lhotse Expedition 2015
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2015-04-15
smtdate: 2015-04-21
termdate: 2015-05-04
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to avalanche triggered by earthquake
campsites: BC(15/04,5350m),C1(21/04,6100m),xxx
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  15/04  5350m
  C!  21/04  6100m	
  HPt 21/04  6100m by Lech and Wojciech Flaczynski.

  Team carried deposit to C1 on 21 April. They did not stay the night.

  On 2 May Wojciech Flaczynski went to C1, stayed a night and came back down to BC through the destroyed Icefall on 3 May. He brought their whole deposit down. On 3 May Lech Flaczynski attempted to climb to C1, but had to turn back their expedition due to broken ladders and difficulties in the Icefall. The team had wanted to continue their expedition; however, due to the fact that the Icefall did not get refixed they were forced to leave.

  Wojciech by email:

  We were in the mess tent in BC (Seven Summit Treks) in the highest camp in whole BC when the earthquake happened. After 3-4 seconds we heard the sound of avalanches wall about 30-50m high rolling down in our direction from the lower part of BC. It was in 200m distance when whe saw it. We ran 10-15m and hid behind the big rock near the mess tent. After 2 minutes we left our hideout, a little bit covered with snow powder. No one from our agency got destroyed, also no injured. The rest of the day after earthquake we worked hard helping injured people from the destroyed part of BC, carried injured on self-made stretchers about 1 km down to medical tents in IMG agency. Unfortunately some of them died in the night, because first helicopters came next day after the tragedy (bad weather and no visibility).


expid: LHOT15103
peakid: LHOT
year: 2015
route1: W Face
nation: Iran
leaders: Azim Gheichisaz
sponsor: Last 8000m Peak to Lhotse
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2015-04-21
smtdate: 2015-04-21
termdate: 2015-04-29
termnote: Abandoned at 5350m due to avalanche triggered by earthquake
campsites: BC(21/04,5350m),xxx
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Gheichisaz was in his tent at BC when the earthquake hit. He was unharmed, but helped Dr. Alireza Behpour from Iran to treat injured people.

  Gheichisaz also held a permit for Everest.


expid: LHOT15105
peakid: LHOT
year: 2015
route1: W Face
nation: UK
leaders: Neil Ward
sponsor: Himalayan Ecstasy Lhotse Expedition 2015
countries: Norway, USA
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2015-04-16
smtdate: 2015-04-25
termdate: 2015-04-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to avalanche triggered by earthquake
campsites: BC(16/04,5350m),C1(23/04,6100m),C2(25/04,6500m),xxx(25/04,6500m)
agency: Himalayan Ecstasy Treks
routememo:
  BC  16/04  5350m
  C1  23/04  6100m	
  C2  25/04  6500m
  HPt 25/04  6500m by Ward and Chamberlayne.

  Ward and Chamberlayne had just arrived at C2 when the earthquake happened. It was very low visibility and snowing. The ground below moved unnaturally like standing on jelly. This created avalanches and rock fall from all three sides, Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse. At one point it felt as if the world was going to end. Everything got a good dusting of snow, but nobody was hurt. On 26 April Ward and Chamberlayne walked down to C1 and were helicoptered to BC.

  Ludvigsen was at BC when the avalanche happened.

  Note: Ward also held a permit for Everest.


expid: MAKA15101
peakid: MAKA
year: 2015
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Iran
leaders: Parvaneh Kazemi
sponsor: First Iranian Woman's Attempt on Makalu
bcdate: 2015-04-13
smtdate: 2015-04-22
termdate: 2015-04-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to earthquake
campsites: BC(13/04,5700m),C1(21/04,6300m),xxx(22/04,6400m)
agency: Prestige Adventure (Mountain Experience pmt)
routememo:
  Kazemi and her Sherpa, Tshiring Jangbu, while on their way to C1 on 21 April on the West Face, were carried one meter downward from 6200m by a slab avalanche. They were attached to a fixed rope already in a place, and suffered no injuries, so they continued their climb to C1 at 6340m. They spent two nights there.

  On the 22nd they climbed up to Russell Brice's C1, but it started to snow, and  they retreated to BC on the 23rd. At 11:30 am on the 25th a major earthquake caused an avalanche that missed them, but they did not venture out of camp. On the 27th all teams at BC met and decided to stay there two more days.

  On the 29th Kazemi decided to quit climbing, and she and her Sherpa packed up and left the mountain.

  Sherpa:
    Tshiring Jangbu Sherpa, 1/8/77, Lokhim-9, Solu


expid: MAKA15102
peakid: MAKA
year: 2015
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Michael Wirth
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Makalu Expedition 2015
countries: Belgium, France, Kyrgyz Republic, Switzerland
approach: Tumlingtar->Num
bcdate: 2015-04-18
smtdate: 2015-04-25
termdate: 2015-04-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to earthquake
campsites: BC(18/04,4900m),ABC(21/04,5700m),xxx(25/04,6100m)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  BC  18/04  4900m
  ABC 21/04  5700m 
  HPt 25/04  6100m by Bodenmann, Brees, Cherkasov, Lavaud, Richter, Viso, 
             Westermeier and Wirth.

  Team was on the way to C1 when the earthquake occurred. They heard avalanches going down everywhere, but they were safe and nobody was injured. They descended to ABC the same day. On 27 April all the expeditions on Makalu had a meeting and it was decided to leave the mountain in unison.


expid: MAKA15103
peakid: MAKA
year: 2015
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Martina Bauer
sponsor: Austria Goes to Makalu
countries: Andorra, Spain, UK
approach: Tumlingtar->Num
bcdate: 2015-04-18
smtdate: 2015-04-25
termdate: 2015-04-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to earthquake
campsites: BC(18/04,4900m),ABC(21/04,5700m),xxx(25/04,6300m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  18/04  4900m
  ABC 21/04  5700m
  HPt 25/04  6000m by Zarzuelo, Trastoy, Ibero Cobos, Wenzl, Unterberger, Hayes. 

  High point team was on their way to C1 when the earthquake happened. They were faced with avalanches and rockfall, however, no injuries. They continued to ABC after the earthquake.

  Latorre, Picas and Bauer reached crampon point at 5900m during an acclimatization trip. They were at ABC during the earthquake, where they saw and heard avalanches and rockfall and they were worried about their teammates further up on the mountain.


expid: MAKA15104
peakid: MAKA
year: 2015
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Victor Saunders
sponsor: Makalu Spring Expedition 2015
countries: Belgium, Poland
approach: Tumlingtar->Num
bcdate: 2015-04-18
smtdate: 2015-04-22
termdate: 2015-05-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to earthquake
campsites: BC(18/04,4900m),ABC(21/04,5700m),C1(24/04,6400m),xxx(24/04,6400m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  18/04  4900m
  ABC 21/04  5700m
  C1  24/04  6400m
  HPt 24/04  6400m by Saunders, Baranowska, Smets, Smolokowska.

  After having spent night at C1 for acclimatization, the team descended to ABC when the earthquake happened. They were just below the headwall on the glacier and they could hear avalanches everywhere and were not able to pinpoint where the noise was coming from. They got very scared; however, they were fine and continued their descent to ABC. The team decided pretty quickly that the expedition should be over. Baranowska and Smolokowska flew out by helicopter on 2 May and Saunders and Smets left ABC on 3 May and walked to Tumlingtar.


expid: MAKA15105
peakid: MAKA
year: 2015
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Joie Seagram
sponsor: Canadian Makalu Expedition 2015
approach: Tumlingtar->Num
bcdate: 2015-04-24
smtdate: 2015-04-30
termdate: 2015-05-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to earthquake
campsites: BC(24/04,4900m),ABC(26/04,5700m),C1(30/04,6400m),xxx
agency: Expedition Himalaya
routememo:
  BC  24/04  4900m
  ABC 26/04  5700m
  C1  30/04  6600m	
  HPt 30/04  6400m by Seagram and Pasang Gomba.

  Seagram and Pasang Gomba were at Hillary BC when the earthquake struck. There was a strong snow/wind blast just after the quake due to avalanche activity across the valley to the south. The following day they continued to ABC.

  Seagram by email:

  We intended to continue climbing after the earthquake, as all support staff (cook and 3 kitchen staff) and Gomba had checked in with their families and everybody was fine.

  It was the clear choice of all support staff on my trip to stay with the climb.  There were other climbers, Sherpas and support staff on Makalu who also wanted to continue climbing as their families were safe and there were no casualities on Makalu. However ABC slowly emptied out, so we all descended.


expid: MANA15101
peakid: MANA
year: 2015
route1: NE Face
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Peter Hamor
sponsor: Manaslu Spring 2015
countries: Romania, Slovakia
bcdate: 2015-04-15
smtdate: 2015-05-08
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2015-05-12
campsites: BC(15/04,4850m),C1(20/04,5800m),C2(22/04),C3(07/05,6900m),Smt(08/05)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  BC  15/04  4850m
  C1  20/04  5800m
  C2  22/04   --
  C3  07/05  6900m
  Smt 08/05  by Bem at 3 pm.

  Bem climbed together with Daniel de Gabai of Paulo Grobel's expedition. They started from C3. The weather was windy when they started, but improved during the course of 8th May. They stayed about 30 minutes on the summit and descended to C3, where Bem picked up his skis and skied down all the way to BC. He reached it at about 8 pm.

  Hamor and Colibasanu never reached BC, but reached Samagaon on 17 April. Hamor suffered a fall during the approach trek and injured his ribs. He did not think it was too bad; however, when he got to Samagaon the pain was too much and he decided to take a helicopter back to Kathmandu on 20 April. Colibasanu joined him and never returned to the mountain.

  Mazanek had bronchitis and left BC on 16 April.

  During the earthquake Bem was in Samagaon. He did not sustain any injuries, but saw a lot of injured people, to whom he provided medical care.


expid: EVER15111
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: N Face (Hornbein Couloir)
nation: Spain
leaders: Jordi Tosas
sponsor: Spanish Everest Spring 2015
countries: France
approach: Kodari->Tingri
termnote: Abandoned due to earthquake
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Team never went to the mountain as they arrived on 25 April, the day the earthquake happened. They supported an aid agency in getting some relief items to Ganesh and Langtang.


expid: EVER15102
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Andreas Holzer
sponsor: Asian Trekking International Everest Expedition 2015
countries: India, Mongolia
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2015-04-15
smtdate: 2015-04-25
termdate: 2015-05-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to earthquake in Nepal
campsites: BC(15/05,5160m),IC(23/04,5780m),ABC(25/04,6400m),xxx
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Andy Holzer Blind Climbing Expedition 2015 

  BC  15/04  5160m
  IC  23/04  5780m
  ABC 25/04  6400m
  HPt 25/04  6400m at ABC by Bichler, Klocker, Holzer.

  Team was on their way from intermediate camp to ABC when the quake happened. Even though there was a lot of rockfall and avalanches coming down, they were safe. They stayed at ABC for 4 nights and when the Chinese authorities told them that the season was over they descended to ABC on 29 April.

  Team left Tibet via Beijing.


expid: EVER15103
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Ted Atkins
sponsor: British Army Everest 2015
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2015-04-17
smtdate: 2015-04-25
termdate: 2015-05-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to earthquake in Nepal
campsites: BC(17/04,5300m),ABC(25/04,6400m),xxx(25/04,6400m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  17/04  5300m
  ABC 25/04  6400m
  Hpt 25/04  6400m at ABC by Atkins, Black, Bradshaw, McMahon, Naywr, Watson
             of the British Army expedition, plus the members of the North Col
             Dinner expedition: Law, Mason, Llewellyn-Davies and Elliman.

  Team was enroute to ABC when the earthquake happened. They were on the medial moraine about 2/3 up the route to ABC. The ground shook and ice towers collapsed left and right. They carried on to reach ABC; however, afterwards all movement was banned.


expid: LHOT15104
peakid: LHOT
year: 2015
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Garrett Madison
sponsor: Madison Mountaineering Lhotse Expedition 2015
countries: S Africa
bcdate: 2015-04-13
smtdate: 2015-04-25
termdate: 2015-04-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to earthquake
othersmts: Attempted Everest (EVER-151-68)
campsites: BC(13/04),C1(22/04,6000m),C2(25/04,6500m),xxx(25/04,6500m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
primid: EVER15168
routememo:
  All members spent the nights of 25 and 26 April with 16 Sherpas at C2 (6500m) because the earthquake on the 25th had cut the climbing route and left them stranded. On the 27th they trekked down to C1 and were picked up from there by a helicopter and flown to BC. From there they trekked down to Gorak Shep; some members, including the two who intended to scale Lhotse, flew from Gorak Shep to Lukla and flew to Kathmandu via Biratnagar; the others trekked to Lukla and flew to Kathmandu directly.


expid: AMAD14348
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Anton (Toni) Spirig
sponsor: Strapazis Ama Dablam Expedition 2014
approach: Zatra La->Mera Peak->Baruntse BC->Amphu La->Ama Dablam BC
bcdate: 2014-11-09
smtdate: 2014-11-13
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2014-11-16
othersmts: Summited Mera Peak and Baruntse on 4 Nov (BARU-143-06)
campsites: BC(09/11,4600m),C1(11/11,5800m),Smt(13/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
primid: BARU14306
routememo:
  BC  09/11  4600m
  C1  11/11  5800m
  Smt 13/11  by Stephan Braun, Benedikt Braun, Albin Kretz, Toni Spirig, 
             Bernhard Staehli, Siddhi Tamang at 11:30 am.

  Summit team left C1 at 4 am. Weather was perfect. Few high clouds and calm. Straightforward climb. One other summiteer from Poland. The stayed 30 minutes on the summit and descended to C1, where they arrived between 4 pm and 5 pm. 

  Pfister got altitude sick on the trek to BC and left expedition before they reached Baruntse BC.


expid: AMAD14349
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Boris Eshcheulov
sponsor: Snowy Horizon International Ama Dablam Expedition 2014
countries: Brazil, Canada, Germany, Italy, Slovenia, Spain
smtdate: 2014-10-19
campsites: Smt(19/10)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  The Snowy Horizon International Ama Dablam expedition was a combination of several independent teams that climbed separately during October 2014. 

  The three Russians were the first group in October.

  The two Italians, Laurent Perruchon and Nicola Zarbo, abandoned their attempt at base camp after climbing Kalapattar and Island Peak due to bad weather and suffering from bronchitus.

  Others teams on the mountain were also on the same Snowy Horizon permits:

    Tom Shindfessel team
    Tomasz Kobielski team
    Yuki Maeda team
    Matija Rovsnik


expid: AMAD14350
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Josef Simunek
sponsor: Czech Ama Dablam Expedition 2014
bcdate: 2014-09-29
smtdate: 2014-09-30
termdate: 2014-10-03
termnote: Abandoned at 5700m due to bad weather (snow) and forecasts for future bad weather
othersmts: Summited Island Peak
campsites: BC(29/09,4700m),C1(30/09,5700m),xxx
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Translated by Google from Czech team blog: http://blog.namche.cz/?tag=ama-dablam

  Weather decided expedition ends
  10/04/2014

  Yesterday morning, Simon said by phone. Unfortunately the weather decided for them.

  Over the past week, each day on the hill thought Novena 7-15 cm of snow. That the output is safe, it would need to stopped snowing. Then, it takes two to three days before he sits snow, slope solidifies and can be planned output. But it is projected to snow until Friday morning. Without snow fall was only Saturday and Sunday. So if the weather held, and on Monday it could soar upwards. But on Monday it was reported the next snowfall. And no cooing, the proper snow flurry.

  Thus a "window" on the output of substantially any. So how do we expeditions unfortunately experienced several times. The Group therefore decided to not spend time waiting at base camp and climb terminate. Yesterday retreated downhill equipment (packed C1) and returned to the Pangboche. According to their information returns under the Island Peak, so that even the other half At least expedition reached the top of Island Peak.

  Built C1
  01/10/2014

  This morning we again managed to establish telephone contact. The boys have since yesterday built the first altitude camp in it and rendered some equipment. But it is still troubling weather. Snowing day, every day think of 5-10 cm new snow, making climbing is not at all good. On the weekend (Friday - Sunday) should be good weather (clear, no snow fall), but it's hard to tell whether this will be enough to output. So keep your fist !!!

  Another attempt to establish a connection - tonight - was unsuccessful.

  Spoiled by the weather, what's next?
  09.30.2014

  The expedition team arrived yesterday to Base Camp of Ama Dablam below. However, it welcomed the snow fall and the outlook for the next days the weather is not very good. The group now awaits vynášky, just for the first high camp. Another course of action will affect mainly the weather. So we wish, at predictions tweaks and get a chance to climb.


expid: AMAD14353
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Heinrich Lederer
sponsor: Canan Nepal Expedition
countries: Bulgaria
bcdate: 2014-10-18
smtdate: 2014-10-23
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to dangerous avalanche conditions and rope safety issues
campsites: BC(18/10,4700m),C1(5600m),C2(5900m),C3(23/10,6200m),xxx
agency: Ace the Himalaya Trekking
routememo:
  Team abandoned expedition at 6200m due to dangerous avalanche conditions and rope safety issues (a Russian died in descent while falling from unsafe ropes).


expid: AMAD14354
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Igor Radovic
sponsor: Slovenian Ama Dablam Expedition 2014
bcdate: 2014-11-03
smtdate: 2014-11-04
termdate: 2014-11-05
termnote: Abandoned at 5600m due to dangerous avalanche conditions
othersmts: Summited Island Peak
campsites: BC(4700m,03/11),xxx(5600m,04/11)
agency: Happy Feet Mountaineers
routememo:
  Extracted from Slovenian website:
    http://www.gore-ljudje.net/novosti/109789/                                                                                                                                                                                       
  Nov 01 - Summited Island Peak with 3 other companions.
  Nov 03 - Arrived Ama Dablam BC
  Nov 04 - Went to C1 (5600m)
  Nov 05 - Abandoned expedition due to dangerous avalanche conditions and Sherpa 
           death up above them


expid: AMAD14355
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Rolfe Oostra
sponsor: Roelof Oostra Ama Dablam Expedition 2014
countries: UK
smtdate: 2014-11-07
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to dangerous avalanche conditions
campsites: BC,C1,C2(07/11,6000m),xxx
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  From 360 Expeditions Facebook entry:

  360 Expeditions added 7 new photos — with Rolfe Oostra and 4 others.
  November 5, 2014 · Edited · 
  AMA update: (Nepal)

  After a few days at basecamp mulling over the situation and taking stock of the recent accident while watching and assessing the route the team have decided that they are going to go higher and start the climbing phase. At this stage this doesn’t mean they are heading for the summit but they do have it in their sights.
  Yesterday they had a very powerful Puja ceremony - An essential part of any technical or high expedition in the Himalayas and now they are bedding down ready to move at first light tomorrow.

  The plan has been etched out and will be a little like this.

  Tomorrow (I will call Day 1)

  Day 1 Thursday: climb to camp 1 where they will sleep.

  Day 2 Friday: Climb up to camp 2 – checking out the route and then head back to C1 to sleep
  Day 3 Satu
  rday: Climb back up to camp 2. Matt and Jo will rest here while Rolfe and Phurba will then head higher to check out the route and re asses. The team will sleep at C2.

  Day 4 Sunday: IF Rolfe and Phurba feel it is do-able they will now attempt the summit direct from C2. They will have an additional tent with them for C2.7 which will be used IF they are too beat to come all the way back to C2. (will be a sung night) If the route is deemed too unstable the team will make a plan B which will inevitably mean heading back to BC and having a think!)

  Rolfe seemed happy and well – and said Jo and Matt are doing great. Henry a good friend came to camp today and created much fun banter so it’s been a really good positive day and they are all ready for the next phase.

  Mountaineering is always a worry for us back home and never easy but I have been assured the right calls are being made and I fully trust their decision. Rolfe will be trying to call daily and as I have news I will update.


  360 Expeditions added 4 new photos.
  November 9, 2014 · Edited · 
  Ama final up date.

  Matt and Phurba had an amazingly cold and noisy night high on Ama Dablam at C2 with the serac and surrounding glaciers booming and creaking. It’s an impressive and intimidating place to be as you will see in the photos below.

  Rolfe and Jo were almost just as cold back at base camp as unfortunately Jo had picked up a bug at C1/C2 – not really surprising as so many teams who come here for the purity of climbing feel it’s okay to use these camps as dumping grounds for all waste. I guess they aren’t so pure after all and no doubt just ego chasing the technical high peaks. Needless to say we take all rubbish off the hill when we climb. Grr…

  After rest and more rest Jo has picked up and feeling much better. It was a hell of a tough few days for the team with so many concerns that even had our guru 360 leader Rolfe on a raw edge of decision making that literally can kill if the wrong call is made. He has spent three nervous nights on the hill just listening to the conditions and then days climbing difficult routes while beadily watching -
  After many talks and hours of thinking our team on Ama Dablam are heading home as currently the conditions are unjustifiable and the serac is deemed too dangerous creating a Russian roulette situation.

  Imagine a 3 - 4 story building hanging above you – within it large cracks ready to break as well as this the serac is constantly dropping pieces the size of pianos that then "boom" down the hill – These huge blocks have already shredded and taken out most of the fixed lines (as well as having killed three this season) – To reach the summit of Ama Dablam you have to climb under this for quite some time (twice!) and with the added risk that you might have to camp nr by on your descent its a big call to make.

  With the conditions as they are we feel the risk is too great for our team – and esp our Sherpas, who with Rolfe were preparing to re fix the lines so our team could climb.

  Rolfe’s team have had a blast – its taken them well out of their comfort zones with very long technical climbing days – they have learnt a lot and have met some fantastic characters along the way. Its been a great expedition which has them all coming home –

  They are battered shattered bruised but happy with the call they have collectively made. Well done – takes a great leader and team to make these calls and walk away but in this case they had little choice - proud of you all.


expid: AMAD14356
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Kenneth Applegate
sponsor: Apple Mountaineering Ama Dablam Expedition 2014
bcdate: 2014-11-09
smtdate: 2014-11-14
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2014-11-17
othersmts: Summited Island Peak
campsites: BC(09/11,4700m),ABC(10/11/5200m),C1(11/11/5700m),C2(13/11,6000m),Smt(14/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  From blog at www.applemountaineering.co.uk:

  The main event! As we arrived at Ama Dablam Base Camp, at 4700m, there was a lot of talk (some factual, some undoubtedly less so) regarding the stability of the Dablam, which had developed a large crack on its right hand side and shed some ice just over a week earlier, unfortunately killing a Sherpa and injuring three others at Camp 3 (which since 2006 is no longer deemed a safe camp) whilst they were descending the Normal Route, the SW Ridge. This event in turn had immediately, and understandably, led to a number of commercial expeditions pulling out of their summit bids on Ama Dablam, so that on our arrival, no one had summited since the incident. Other commercial expeditions were being extremely cautious and not making any firm commitments to summit and it didn't take us long or much convincing to adopt a cautious approach, settling on the decision to go as far as Camp 2, at 6000m, which is objectively quite safe and a brilliant adventure in its own right and to see the conditions of the Dablam for ourselves. In fact we were so cautious that we purposefully set off from base camp the following day without our winter boots or any gear required for summit day, as it is feasible to reach camp 2 wearing just approach shoes.

  We spent a night at advanced base camp, at 5200m, before negotiating the boulder field and rocky slabs leading to camp 1 at 5700m. Space at camp 1 and more so at camp 2 is one of the limiting factors on the mountain and can prove to be a logistical barrier, with space for only 15-20 tents at camp 1 and 8-10 tents at camp 2, so we were extremely lucky to be able to liaise with Danny, expedition leader for SummitClimb, who kindly offered us space in his tents, of which he had a few at both camps and that had been put in place early in the climbing season by his Sherpa team. Danny was still waiting for his clients to arrive at base camp and so wouldn't need the tents for a few days.

  It was whilst en-route to camp 1 that we spotted three tiny figures on the upper snow slopes of the mountain, one of whom had summited and was on his way down with the other two, who had turned around 200m or so from the summit. It turned out to be an Italian pair plus Sherpa, all of whom had set off for the summit from Camp 1 earlier that morning. Just because they had passed the Dablam unscathed, it doesn't necessarily make it safe we told ourselves, but the fact that they had was a positive sign. That evening, with multiple thoughts going through our minds, we both decided that we should venture up to Camp 2 with the gear necessary to summit, in the event that we felt it safe enough to attempt, albeit with the thought that if for any reason either of us felt uneasy, that we would turn round. This meant a quick hit back to base camp for me in order to haul up enough food, both of our boots, axes etc, and the following morning, we had our first proper taste of Himalayan fixed rope climbing up to camp 2.

  Even before setting foot on the mountain, we had come to the conclusion that to climb it alpine-style, i.e., with using the fixed lines as little as possible and moving together, would be impractical and potentially unsafe due to the fact that everyone else climbing around us would be jumaring up the fixed line, and so to do anything different to the norm could and would in fact pose a danger to ourselves and be a perceived danger to others, so for others reading this with hopes of climbing the mountain alpine-style, peak season on Ama Dablam, which is October through to mid-November probably isn't the time.

  The journey from camp 1 to 2 only ascends 300m or so, but with plenty of airy traverses and with one of the main cruxes of the entire SW Ridge right beneath camp 2, the exposed and steep Yellow Tower, this section of the mountain proved to be good fun and thoroughly absorbing throughout, and took about 3 hrs. On arrival to one of the wildest camping spots on the planet, we picked our way carefully through the cat's cradles of ropes, guy lines and Sherpas and found an empty SummitClimb's tent, just around the corner from the main pinnacle, just beneath the Grey Tower. During the course of the day, 15 climbers had set off at 2:30 am from Camp 2, but were turned around by their Sherpas, who claimed that the ropes and anchors on the Grey Tower were in poor condition, however, we were able to quiz a strong and well acclimatised team of six Swiss climbers as they passed our tent en-route back to Camp 1, who had started a few hours later and been successful in reaching the summit. As they passed us at varying intervals, they all reported that the ropes and anchors were solid enough on the Grey Tower and beyond that conditions on the route were good, with no ice peeling off the Dablam.

  For us, it was crunch time. We had as much information as we were going to gather and the big questions in our minds were: whose reports could we trust and what our tolerance to the risks were, given that we were a small team of two, who could potentially move quite quickly, especially if we were to start earlier than anyone else the following morning. After deliberating for some time that day, and having kept a close eye with our binoculars on the section of the route in question, between camp 3 and the top right hand corner of the Dablam, we decided that we should attempt the route early the following morning, get to Camp 3, and make a decision from there as to whether we felt it to be safe enough to continue.

  So at 1:20 am, having forced down breakfast, we set off with only the beams from our head torches to light up our individual worlds. On arrival at the Grey Tower, I carefully ascended the best of the fixed lines, but was also clipped into numerous other ropes for back-up, and was pleased to find that the first anchor was far better than I had expected. I called Han on up, as I continued up the 70 degree mixed slope. Now, there is no question that some of the anchors were questionable, but in virtually every case, the questionable anchors were well backed up by something far sturdier a few meters higher, so had an anchor failed, the one above would have been loaded and limited any fall. That said, we were able to minimise any excessive loading of the anchors by keeping our weight over our feet.  Beyond the Grey Tower, the ground eased for a bit, before a narrow and exposed traverse on a foot wide ledge brought us to snow slopes that lead up to the 'Mushroom Ridge'. I wonder whether the Sherpa's turned the 15 climbers round simply because they would have been climbing the lower sections together, and potentially on top of each other, therefore exerting excessive loads on the anchors (some of which I wouldn't really want to trust with any more than a single climber's body weight alone).

  The section between the Mushroom Ridge and the small plateau of camp 3 went smoothly and was quite straight forward despite tackling some of the steepest steps of snow on the entire route. Well, I say smoothly, just as dawn was about to break, Hannah’s head torch slipped out of the clips on her helmet, and into her hood, and as she attempted with her mitted hands to reach for the head torch, it dropped out, and disappeared into the dark void beneath. It's a shame that in this day and age that something so simple yet crucial, such as a helmet's capability to hold a head torch in place is flawed, this happened only a few hours after the adjustment dial on her helmet broke. Not a one off either, as I've had the same problems with my identical helmet…

  By now a lone Polish Climber had caught up with us, and fortunately, with the ground being straight forward, the light cast by both mine and his head torches were enough to assist Hannah for the next 30 minutes or so until dawn broke. Guess where our spare head torch was? Yep, basecamp.

  The ground levelled out as we approached the now hardly used camp 3 at 6300m (here's why it’s hardly used as a camp anymore), we knew that we were fast approaching the point beyond which the next section of the route is threatened by ice fall from the Dablam and had to make a decision as to whether we felt it safe enough to continue. From a safe distance, we attempted to gauge whether there had been any recent ice fall, what the terrain ahead was like, it’s distance and how long it would take before we were beyond the objective dangers presented by the Dablam. By starting early, we were the first climbers of the day to reach this point, which gave us a clear run without having to overtake anybody else and the sun still had a while before reaching the Dablam. The lone Polish climber was content to stay behind us for the remainder of the climb. Things appeared to be safe enough, and so we continued.

  An hour of hard work and fast moving later, we were beyond the Dablam, and on the upper snow slopes, which seemed endless, broken up by a rocky step about halfway up. We both got into our own rhythms, and so a gap of about an hour opened up between myself and Hannah, with me finally topping out into sunshine at 7:30 am and her an hour later. We both found reaching the summit an overwhelming experience, probably brought on by all the time, effort and unknowns that had been an integral part of the planning and execution right up to this one single moment in time.

  The lone Polish climber also topped out right behind Hannah, and so with huge congratulations passed around, we snapped a few summit pics before preparing our descent. One thing I always remind myself, and my clients when I'm working, is that reaching the summit is only half of the journey, and that the descent from any mountain can often be as serious, if not more so, than the ascent, and with that in mind, we couldn't afford to let our guard down. The descent followed our steps back down the SW Ridge, so we knew exactly where we were going, and that the ropes were all in good condition. It was a matter of double checking the anchors, and in particular those that relied on the integrity of the snow, which by this point had received a bit of sunlight, and again, moving quickly past the Dablam. As we made our descent, we passed a further four climbers, who also all went on to summit, but it turned out to be a far quieter day than the previous day, and than we had expected.

  The descent passed quickly, and we found ourselves stepping back into our tent at camp 2 by 1:20 pm, ready for a well-earned lunch, as we had barely eaten whilst climbing that morning. It had taken us 12 hours in total, including an hour or so on the summit, which was about the average time taken. We had met a chap earlier in our trip who had taken 20 hours from camp 2 to camp 2, that level of determination and hard grit deserves commending!

  Following a more relaxed night at camp 2 (mentally relaxed that is, as sleeping wasn't overly comfortable with our body positions being akin to that of bananas, being entirely dictated by the scooped profile of the ledge on which we were perched!) we packed up, made our way via camp 1, to pick up a few bits that we had left there, and then hauled our fully laden packs back down to base camp.

  The rest of our trip was quite easy going, with a rest day at base camp the following day, during which we caught up with friend and fellow mountaineering instructor Di Gilbert who was out leading a trip for Adventure Peaks, and thanked Tim Mosedale & Jon Gupta, who were also leading trips, for their valuable advice. We somehow managed to catch earlier flights back to Kathmandu, I'm still not quite sure as to how the kind folk at Paradise Lodge in Lukla managed to arrange for us and all of our kit to end back up in Kathmandu in amongst numerous flight delays and cancellations (made worse by the upcoming 18th Saarc Conference in Kathmandu, which meant that airspace priority was given to VIPs arriving at Kathmandu Airport, not tired and shower needing hikers with onward international flights to catch).


expid: AMAD14358
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Daniele Fringuello
sponsor: Fringuello Italian Ama Dablam Expedition 2014
bcdate: 2014-11-08
smtdate: 2014-11-10
termdate: 2014-11-12
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to lateness in the day
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East
campsites: BC(08/11,4700m),C2(08/11,5900m),xxx(10/11,6600m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Translated by Google from Wordpress blog:
    https://cip67.wordpress.com/2014/11/11/quasi-cima-ma-grande-soddisfazione/

  ALMOST CIMA .... BUT GREAT SATISFACTION!

  11/11/2014

  Update flash: Yesterday Daniel tried the climb to the top of the field 2 (5900, 1000 meters from the top!).

  Overcome problems without the dangerous area of seracs near the camp 3 and the smooth plate final, very tiring.

  Eventually it lacked 200 meters to the top but the hour was already too late! Better return on the verge of success, but avoid taking unnecessary risks and stupid.

  However, a great satisfaction for what happened during the shipment. Now is on the field 1, for a well-earned rest and a bit of holiday.


expid: AMAD14361
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Garrett Madison
sponsor: Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam Expedition 2014
countries: Norway, UK
approach: From Makalu BC by helicopter
bcdate: 2014-10-24
smtdate: 2014-10-30
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2014-11-01
othersmts: Attempted Makalu (MAKA-143-02)
campsites: BC(24/10,4700m),C1(28/10),C2(29/10,6000m),Smt(30/10)
agency: Himalayan Guides (Asian Trekking pmt?)
routememo:
  From Madison Mountaineering website: 
    http://madisonmountaineering.com/dispatches/amadablam/amadablam14/

  Ama Dablam 2014 Recap
  BY GARRETT, Posted on November 3, 2014

  We had a wonderful climb to the summit of Ama Dablam just a few days ago, and since then have trekked down the Khumbu Valley to Lukla, and just this morning we flew by twin otter to Kathmandu. We are very happy to be back in the city after more than six weeks in the mountains climbing Makalu and Ama Dablam.

  The conditions on Ama Dablam were near perfect. Much of the route was covered in snow and made for good cramponing on our way up to the summit in the pre dawn hours of October 30th. There was little wind, and a cloudless sky that allowed amazing views from the summit of the 8000 meter peaks Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Kangchenjunga, and Cho Oyu, as well as countless other summits.

  We descended from the summit to Camp 1 and spent the night, then continued to base camp the following day. We were fortunate to have experienced such great route conditions on the mountain, thanks to our Sherpa team that climbed with us, and our exceptional base camp staff that supported us with amazing meals throughout the expedition.

  Unfortunately, this season has not been a good one for all teams on Ama Dablam, as there have been several accidents resulting in a total of 3 fatalities over the last few weeks, and one serious injury. We feel very fortunate that our climb was relatively uneventful, and we made the summit and returned without incident. Our thoughts go out to the families of the climbers who did not make it down from Ama Dablam this autumn.

  Ama Dablam Summit Success!!
  BY KURT, Posted on October 29, 2014

  We just received a sat phone call from the spectacular summit of Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft). Garrett and team sounded fantastic and are enjoying a picture perfect summit day. A transcript of the call is provided below. Congratulations team!

  Transcript:

  This is Garrett Madison for the Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam expedition and we are calling from the summit of Ama Dablam! It is October 30th, 8:30 am Nepal time. A beautiful day here, not a cloud in the sky, hardly a breeze here on the summit and just a glorious day. We are really excited to be up here, fantastic climb, and we are looking forward to getting back down and being back in base camp shortly. We are really luck to be up here, wonderful climb, and we are going to take our time on the descent. All is well!

  Ama Dablam Camp 2
  BY KURT, Posted on October 29, 2014

  After ascending to Ama Dablam Camp 1 yesterday from base camp, earlier today Garrett and team climbed on and established Camp 2 near 6000m (19,685ft). Ama Dablam Camp 2 is stunningly located on the cap of a rock pillar with narrowly room for just a few tents.

  Weather continues to be favorable. Tomorrow the team will either press on for a summit attempt or move up to Camp 2.7 (6280m). Stay tuned for live tracking!

  Ama Dablam: Climb on!
  BY GARRETT, Posted on October 27, 2014

  After a few days in Ama Dablam base camp we are now ready to begin our summit attempt. We have been reviewing fixed line techniques, rappelling and have sorted our equipment and food for the high camps. The weather forecast looks good, and the recent snowfall has negligible effect on our route as it is generally follows an exposed ridge.

  Today we plan to climb to camp 1, then tomorrow ascend up the southwest ridge to camp 2, then summit the following morning. We are well acclimatized and looking forward to the epic climbing along sections such as the Yellow Tower and Mushroom Ridge, as well as the spectacular views along the way. We should be able to see at least 6 of the 8000 meter peaks from the summit!

  Follow along with our real-time tracking. We will post another dispatch from Camp 1 tomorrow.


expid: AMAD14362
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Andy Leemans
sponsor: Belgian Ama Dablam Expedition 2014
approach: See route notes
bcdate: 2014-10-27
smtdate: 2014-11-13
termdate: 2014-11-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to dangerous conditions
campsites: BC(27/10,4600m),C1(04/11,5800m),C2(05/11,6000m),xxx(13/11,6400m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Approach: Tumlingtar by plane->Num by jeep->Sedua->Makalu BC->Sherpani Col->West Col->Mingbo La->Ama Dablam BC

  Notes from Dutch website:
     http://www.expeditieamadablam.be 

  Oct 11 - Flight to Tumlingtar (met by Samden Bhote and three Sherpas: Karma, 
           Nima and Dawa); by jeep to Chichila, then to Num.
  Oct 12 - Camped at Sedua (1500m).
  Oct 13 - Camped at Tashigaon (2070m).
  Oct 14 - Camped at Khongma (3560m).
  Oct 15 - Crossed Shipton La (4170m), down to Dobate (3800m).
  Oct 16 - Camped at Yangle Kharka (3600m).
  Oct 18 - Reached Makalu BC (4450m).
  Oct 19 - Camped in Barun Glacier (5250m).
  Oct 21 - Reached Sherpani Col low BC.
  Oct 22 - Reached Sherpani Col high BC (5700m).
  Oct 23 - Cross over Sherpani Col, West Col, and down to Hongu Glacier to Baruntse
           BC (5450m).
  Oct 24 - Went to Seto Pokhari (5072m)
  Oct 25 - Rest day.
  Oct 26 - Went over below Mingbo La (4511m)
  Oct 27 - Crossed Mingbo La (5817m) to Ama Dablam BC (4600m).
  Oct 28 - Rest day at BC.
  Oct 29 - Climbed toward ABC (5400m).
  Nov 02 - Climbed to C1 site (5800m), but no place to put camp due to crowding
  Nov 04 - Went to C1.
  Nov 05 - Went to C2 (6000m), now alone on mountain due to accident above since
           other teams cancel expeditions.
  Nov 08 - Back at BC.
  Nov 10 - Climbed to C1.
  Nov 11 - Climbed to C2.
  Nov 12 - Climbed above C2 until encountered damaged ropes.
  Nov 13 - Make another summit attempt to 6400m.
  Nov 15 - Depart BC for Phortse.


expid: AMAD14363
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Lok-Kee Siu
sponsor: Hong Kong Ama Dablam Expedition 2014
approach: Thalsharoa->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2014-11-07
smtdate: 2014-11-20
termdate: 2014-11-23
campsites: BC(07/11,4570m),ABC(10/11,5300m),C1(13/11,5700m),C2(19/11,6000m),Smt(20/11)
agency: Dreamers Destination Treks (Himalayan Guides pmt)
routememo:
  Siu, Yim, Mingma Gyalgen, Pemba Rita and Kazi left C2 at 3 am on 20 November and got to the top at 11:30 am. They stayed on summit for 45 minutes and went down to C2 where they arrived at 5 pm. Next day 21 November they descended to BC. Wong went up to C1.


  From Dreamer's Destination website:

  On 18th Nov 2014, Our first team including Mingma Gyalje Sherpa and Oliver Xavier Robert Demay from France made successful attempt on Ama Dablam.
   
  Again on 20th Nov 2014, Our another team led by Mingma Gyalje Sherpa including Kazi and Pemba Rita made successful attempt on the summit of Ama Dablam with the first ever Hong Kong team including Mr LK Siu and Vincent Yim. Congratulations to them for being the first team from Hong Kong to the summit of Ama Dablam.


expid: AMAD14364
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Olivier Demay
sponsor: Demay French Ama Dablam Expedition 2014
approach: Lukla->Phortse->Gorakshep->Kalapattar->Everest BC->Ama Dablam BC
bcdate: 2014-11-07
smtdate: 2014-11-18
campsites: BC(07/11,4600m),ABC(08/11,5100m),C1(16/11,5800m),C2(17/11,6100m),Smt(18/11)
agency: Dreamers Destination Treks (Himalayan Guides pmt)
routememo:
  From Dreamer's Destination website:

  On 18th Nov 2014, Our first team including Mingma Gyalje Sherpa and Oliver Xavier Robert Demay from France made successful attempt on Ama Dablam.
   
  Again on 20th Nov 2014, Our another team led by Mingma Gyalje Sherpa including Kazi and Pemba Rita made successful attempt on the summit of Ama Dablam with the first ever Hong Kong team including Mr LK Siu and Vincent Yim. Congratulations to them for being the first team from Hong Kong to the summit of Ama Dablam.


expid: AMAD14365
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Faust Punsola
sponsor: Spanish Ama Dablam Expeditin 2014
termnote: Abandoned due to dangerous avalanche conditions
agency: Himalayan Guides permit
routememo:
  From Fiona Pujol's Facebook (10 Nov 2014)

  The Ama Dablam has decided that enough, which is no longer in the month this season, and as that is the mountain decides, we have had to withdraw.

  Although our route was not for the normal route, the last section there agreed, and right is this part which has made us lose. At this point there have been various dandruff of the serac (the hanging serac characteristic that is at the top of the mountain) due to the great rift which has developed these days, one of which caused a crash serious enough and that we witness, in part that if finally the serac decided to finish the chaos everything was very likely to also fall on our way. So we played to take the drastic decision to collect all the junk that we had climbed to the Field1 and go down.

  Now prepare the trekking towards the Valley of Langtang to finish these days take advantage of the espectacuars area.


expid: AMAD14366
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Tim Mosedale
sponsor: Tim Mosedale's Ama Dablam Autumn 2014
countries: Canada, Norway
termnote: Abandoned due to dangerous avalanche conditions
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  From Tim Mosedale's website:
    http://www.timmosedale.co.uk/ama_dablam/ama_dablam_3.htm

  Unfortunately at the beginning of November 2014 a climbing Sherpa was killed and 3 clients injured when some ice fell from the right side of the Dablam. We arrived at Base Camp with this news very much at the forefront of our collective minds and we observed the state of the Dablam on a daily basis through the telescope. We also gained quite a lot of corroborating evidence from other teams about the state of the ropes (great), the state of the route (great) and the state of the route from the old C3 to where it past the Dablam (dodgy). We witnessed quite a few calvings and sheddings of blocks of various sizes and there were doubtlessly others that we didn't see.

  Despite the fact that clients from other teams were still summiting I was not convinced that this meant that the route was safe (enough) for our team to progress beyond C3. In particular I was concerned that if anyone were to get injured whilst making an unsupported summit attempt that I would still need to get the climbing Sherpas in to action to go and assist - thereby rendering any solo action pointless.

  To that end it was decided that we would not be attempting the summit at all in 2014 - a decision that was respected by the team and Sherpas alike. We then changed tack slightly and some folk went home, some went trekking and I took some round to Island Peak.


expid: BARU14307
peakid: BARU
year: 2014
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Sweden
leaders: Joel Zachrisson
countries: Germany
smtdate: 2014-10-30
termnote: Abandoned on 30 Oct due to deep snow and cold weather
campsites: BC,C1(28/10),C2(29/10),xxx(30/10,6900m)
agency: Climb High Himalaya
routememo:
  October 2014 saw an international team organised by Climb High Himalaya attempt Mount Baruntse, a 7129m peak in the Barun region of Nepal. The team were going well until, due to unexpected heavy snow and cold weather, they had to call off the climb at 6900m on 30 Oct 2014.


expid: HIML14306
peakid: HIML
year: 2014
route1: W Ridge?
nation: USA
leaders: Luke Smithwick
countries: Australia, Canada
termnote: Abandoned before BC due to Cyclone Hudhud
agency: Explore Himalaya (Seven Summit Treks pmt)?
routememo:
  Luke Smithwick 
  Himalaya Alpine Guides : http://www.himalaya-alpine.com 
  Phakding, Solu Khumbu, Nepal | 21 October 2014 | 0619 | 2715m

  Jump forward a week, we've since moved the entire expedition to the Marsyangdi gorge, approached Himlung base camp, experienced a massive storm that claimed more than 40 lives, retreated to Kathmandu, and then flown to the Everest region yesterday.

  We're now on approach to Nirekha peak, a gem of a mountain sandwiched between the Gokyo, Khumbu, and Changri glacier complex. We'll approach via Namche Bazaar ("Nauche" in Sherpa/Tibetan), the cultural and economic center of the Everest region.


expid: MAKA14302
peakid: MAKA
year: 2014
route1: SE Ridge
route2: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Garrett Madison
sponsor: Madison Mountaineering Makalu Expedition 2014
countries: Norway
approach: Flight to Tumlingtar->Num by jeep->Sedua->Makalu BC
bcdate: 2014-09-26
smtdate: 2014-10-20
termdate: 2014-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6850m due to deep snow and dangerous conditions
othersmts: Summited Ama Dablam (AMAD-143-61)
campsites: BC(26/09,4865m),ABC(5680m),C1(07/10,6150m),C2(20/10,6850m),xxx
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Madison team at first intended to attempt SE Ridge, but switched to normal route soon after reaching base camp.


  From Madison Mountaineering blog:
    http://madisonmountaineering.com/dispatches/makalu/makalu14/

  Makalu 2014 Dispatches

  Makalu: dangerous conditions end expedition
  BY GARRETT, Posted on October 21, 2014

  We have just returned to base camp after pushing as high as possible on Makalu.

  Above our Camp 2 at 22,500' we found deep snow left by the recent storm that caused the avalanches and fatalities on nearby peaks in the Annapurna region. We felt it unreasonable to press on in such difficult / dangerous conditions, so have called off our climb. Currently we are packing up our base camp and preparing to head out in a few days.

  We have had a great time attempting the world’s 5th highest mountain, and have made some great friends along the way.

  Thanks for following!

  Makalu Summit Push!
  BY KURT, Posted on October 18, 2014

  Here we go! The summit push is on! We spoke with Garrett a little while ago from Makalu base camp. According the tracking map, the team has just left base camp and is heading up to Camp 1 (6150m / 20,177ft.). Weather and conditions pending, the rough target for summit day is currently October 24th. Follow along with the team by visiting this dispatch page and monitor the real-time RainOn tracking.

  More details as we get them.

  Waiting on the Weather
  BY GARRETT, Posted on October 15, 2014

  The forecasted storm came and deposited about 30 centimeters of new snow in our base camp.

  Currently the winds are still very high, we hope they will drop in a few days. We are waiting patiently here in base camp, enjoying the clear blue sky and sunshine during the day, and if the weather cooperates soon we will make our summit push.

  Everything is good here, as we have plenty of nice food, books, movies and some very friendly Slovenian climbers to share the time with.

  We will check in again soon,
  Garrett Madison

  Makalu 2nd Rotation
  BY GARRETT, Posted on October 11, 2014

  After a few nights up high on Makalu at elevations of approximately 21,000' we are now back in base camp relaxing and enjoying the comforts of our camp. We accomplished our goal of stocking camps with gear and food, as well as acclimatizing to the higher altitudes.

  We experienced perfect weather thus far, but we hear from our forecasting service that the weather is about to change. Apparently a storm is brewing in the bay of Bengal, and is moving north towards us, reaching our area on October 14th. We could have up to 12 inches of snow per day during this time. We are crossing our fingers and hoping a strong wind will appear and blow this low pressure system off track before it reaches us. The benefit of this storm is that it may push the jet stream (high winds), currently over the summit preventing a summit bid, north away from the mountain so that we have calm conditions for an extended period.

  Our plan will be to rest a few days in base camp and see what happens…

  Makalu ABC, Camp 1, Camp 2…
  BY KURT, Posted on October 7, 2014

  After moving base camp 5.5 miles and 3,100 vertical feet up the Barun glacier and then climbing up to Camp 1 at 20,100 ft. on the Makalu standard North West route, today the team established Camp 2 at 21,210 ft. Garrett called in the following dispatch via satellite phone.

  Transcript:
  Hi, this is Garrett Madison calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Makalu expedition. Today is Tuesday October 7th. It’s 6:30pm and we are tucked in up at our Camp 2 on Makalu. Beautiful day climbing up from Camp 1 to Camp 2! We had clear skies. We could see for miles and miles in every direction and we are the only ones up here right now. Here’s a few down at Camp 1. But great to be up here on the mountain having a fantastic time. We are going to climb up towards Camp 3 tomorrow, probably come back down to this camp and then head down the following day. Everything’s going great and we’ll check in soon.

  Makalu Route Change
  BY GARRETT, Posted on October 2, 2014

  We had a great time the last few days up at our advanced base camp on the South East Ridge. Great views of the surrounding peaks and fun climbing on the ridge line! We are now enjoying a rest day in base camp, with hot showers and great food!

  We have decided to change our climbing route to the Northwest side of the mountain or what is the normal route via the Makalu La. This means we will move our base camp tomorrow up the Barun Glacier about 2500' higher than our current camp, to approximately 18,500' (5639m). We are looking forward to exploring this side of the mountain as we have not yet seen it from this angle. It’s great that our climbing permit allows us to climb on both sides.

  We are doing well, the days are typically sunny and clear in the morning with clouds and some snow in the afternoon / evening.

  We will check in again soon!
  Garrett Madison

  Acclimatization
  BY GARRETTPosted on September 29, 2014

  Yesterday we went for an acclimatization hike up to 19,000' and found a good location for our advanced base camp on the South-East Ridge route. The hiking was mostly on rock and scree and we reached the snowy ridge line where we took a break before heading down.

  Today we had our Puja ceremony in base camp. We built a small stone altar and burned juniper at it’s base; asking the mountain for safe passage. This ceremony is an essential part of any Himalayan climbing expedition in Nepal or Tibet and sometimes Pakistan as well, depending on who is on the climbing team. Now that we have completed this important ceremony we can begin climbing the mountain.

  Tomorrow, our plan is to rest and organize equipment, then the following day move up to our advanced base camp (ABC) to spend a night or two to begin acclimatizing.

  Garrett Madison

  Makalu Base Camp!!
  BY GARRETT, Posted on September 26, 2014

  After six days of trekking over approximately 80 miles have finally reached Makalu base camp! We are very excited to be here, as we can now settle into our new home here for a few weeks. At just under 16,000 ft, we are now above the clouds and rain that were present for much of our journey to base camp. Awaking for the first time to sun shine, and a view of the mountain, as well as the glistening peaks surrounding, deserves a moment of pause as we consider the challenge before us. Today we are enjoying hot showers, drying our gear, and organizing camp.

  Camped nearby are a well provisioned team of British climbers, and further up the glacier moraine a small team of Slovenian climbers. It’s a very peaceful and scenic place to call home. After dinner last night we watched the film Top Gun, selected by our Nepali staff who really enjoyed the action scenes with fighter jets.

  We will spend a few days in base camp, taking short hikes to acclimate, before heading up to the higher camps. We plan to have our Puja ceremony in the next few days as well. All is good for our team, and we look forward to checking in again soon!


expid: MAKA14303
peakid: MAKA
year: 2014
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Irena Mrak
sponsor: Slovene Makalu Expedition 2014
bcdate: 2014-09-15
smtdate: 2014-10-20
termdate: 2014-10-23
termnote: Abandoned at 6850m due to deep snow and dangerous conditions
campsites: BC(15/09,4850m),ABC(18/09,5700m),C1(6200m),C2(6800m),xxx
agency: Seven Summit Treks?
routememo:
  Translated by Google from Slovenian website blog:
    http://www.gore-ljudje.net/novosti/112500/

  Makalu 2014

  The aim was to climb the normal route on Makalu (8481 m), in addition, they also had research objectives: ECG changes in height; Changes in tissue oxygenation with the level and impact of acclimatization; Comparison of scale glaciation of the southern wall of Makalu and surrounding peaks by comparing photos of 4 the Yugoslav expedition to Makalu in 1972 and the current situation.

  After completion of the formalities in Kathmandu on 8 September we fly to Tumlingtar and on the same day by all-terrain vehicles continued to the village of Num (1500m). On the approach to the base joined us yet Vojka Gorjup, Marjan Harjac and Matej Blatnik.

  This was followed by the seven-day hike to the base of the south face of Makalu at an altitude of 4850 meters. All the time we were accompanied by monsoon rains and - albeit extremely picturesque landscape - has always been shrouded in fog and clouds.

  The database is followed by a couple living acclimatization and research work.
  18 September we continue to ABC (5700m), respectively. the current base camp for a normal approach to the mountain.

  After a few days of rest we started to approach the mountain. 21 September we set up camp 1 (6200m). Promotion is hampered deep Layers of compressed snow and unstable weather.

  Camp 2 (6800m) was set up until 2 October.

  On 3 October, we are in the base camp joined by some members of the other two expeditions, which are also intended to try the normal direction.

  In autumn, in addition to us to try to mount two elimination of both in order to climb the south-east ridge.

  In an attempt to approach the camp 3 we were stopped on 5 October high snow, landslides and strong winds; We have reached a height of 7100 meters.

  Re-attempt the ascent is stopped forecast bad weather with heavy snow (cyclone Hudhud), before which we quickly re-ascend to camp 2 and all the amenities retreated back to camp first

  This was followed by a week of waiting in the database. Overdue about 30 inches of snow, strong was cooled and the wind strengthened. Temperatures in the database (tent) at night dropped to -15 ° C during the day and also remained below freezing.

  15 October is due to work commitments eliminate left Thomas. Mojca Irena and I decided to try again in collaboration with members of the other two expeditions. (Members of these expeditions because of the cold and bad snow conditions to achieve one camp and finally decided to descend ...).

  On 19 October, we reached T1 and the rest of the day spent on the rescue equipment from buried and destroyed the tent. The next day we continued in T2.

  In the following days we tried to climb to T3, but we were on 22 October the two of us decided to descend due to the severe cold, wind, adverse snow conditions. This day we also returned to base.

  On 24 October we have planned descent into the valley.

  In the early hours of the morning (ok. 7h) on 23 October, the Irena became ill with symptoms of breathlessness and gradual loss of vision. The health situation has deteriorated rapidly, until the disturbance of consciousness that occurred within a few hours.

  Luckily, the weather allowing helicopter rescue. Irene was transported first to Lukla, where after initial care doctor estimated that will require treatment in a hospital in Kathmandu.

  Upon arrival at the hospital (at 14h) it has been extremely critical condition (not measurable arterial pressure, low heart rate, non-reactive Zenica). After a few minutes, the revival has been accepted by the intensive care unit, where they continued the treatment of severe metabolic acidosis and multi-organ failure.

  The first signs of awakening has started to show only in the night. In the intensive care unit he remained for three days and then the treatment continued for four days at the normal ward. In a lot of luck, the health status of good repair; only the result remained loss of vision in both eyes.

  The reason health problems, even after numerous tests in a hospital in Kathmandu and Slovenia is not yet entirely clear. Nepali doctors have concluded that it was a high altitude cerebral edema, which is having a good acclimatization and descent of 1400 meters the day before the event is unlikely. Another possibility is that the problems were a result of metabolic disorders.

  The happy end health issues are a decisive factor: fast response Nepalese agency Seven Summits by activating helicopter rescue (Mingma Sherpa), the organization of Global Rescue, who took care to organize and cover the cost of solving the Kathmandu team and hospital Vayodha.

  On this occasion, to intervene in Nepal would like to thank the Alpine Association of Slovenia.

  Thomas Goslar, Irena Mrak, Mojca Švajger


expid: MANA14326
peakid: MANA
year: 2014
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Franck Candelier
sponsor: French Manaslu Expedition
approach: Via Larkya La->Samagaon
bcdate: 2014-09-11
smtdate: 2014-10-02
smttime: 1104
termdate: 2014-10-04
agency: Seven Summit Treks
campsites:
  BC(11/09,4700m),ABC(13/09,5100m),C1(17/09,5700m),C2(24/09,6400m),C3(30/09,7000m),C4(01/10,7450m),Smt(02/10)

routememo:
  Translated by Google from expedition blog:
    http://expedition-manaslu2014.blogspot.com

  Manaslu 2014 expedition ... "passion 8163 Meters"

  Friday, October 3, 2014
  Latest news
  Franck and Purna resting at base camp ...
  Although tired and happy.
  They have been very lucky because one hour and a half after their visit to Camp 2 an avalanche swept across the face. She would have left them no chance.
  Everything is going very well.

  Thursday, October 2, 2014
  Latest news at 14h40 (local time)
  Franck is at camp 4 with Purna.
  They will spend the night at 7450 m.
  Franck is very tired. On the phone, he said: "I do not even know if I'm happy, I'm just glad it's over. I really drooled lowering and I even fell asleep a dozen times. Tomorrow we descend to the base camp as soon as possible. "
  Go bravery and rest before back down to the base camp.

  11:04 (local time) summit of Manaslu
  Blow live Franck phone from the summit of Manaslu.
  8163 m dream come true !!
  Franck and Purna are very moved. They are the only 2 at the top.
  They embrace everyone.
  Again a big bravo to you!
  Be careful to back down.

  Manaslu J32
  10:30 local time Franck phone call.
  Franck and Purna are 150 meters from the summit. They are hyper motivated.
  Excellent weather condition.
  It progresses slowly but surely.
  By 2:00, the summit can expect the phone call!
  Go friends !!

  Wednesday, October 1, 2014
  Manaslu J31
  It is 14 h18 in France when the phone rings. Franck is on the other side of the world in his tent at Camp 4 of Manaslu in 7450 m altitude!
  He had said yesterday the climb to Camp 4 is a little justice ...

  Franck and Purna reached camp 4: "It was very hard, I got to pick it up, says Franck, in the end I walked five steps and 10 minutes écroulais me to my knees. I understand why all other use oxygen! But the hardest part is over, tomorrow it remains essentially the great false flats to reach the top .. I will not leave like other in the night, but with Purna we will wait until the sun is not too far to enjoy temperatures milder. I will go with very little equipment to be as light as possible. The scenery is fabulous, I see the mountains of Tibet but also the Annapurna, Dhaulagiri, it's magic ... "
  Franck is alone in the tent, Purna has joined a Czech mountaineer who no longer knows where his companion, hope it will not run!
  Go tomorrow: a little over 700 m elevation to realize a dream ...
  We are with you, and tomorrow we hope the call from the summit!

  Tuesday, September 30, 2014
  Manaslu J30
  One approach to ending!
  As Franck said on the phone: "tomorrow is the Justice of the Peace: Camp 4-7 400m last step before the summit." They are therefore mounted every 2 to Camp 3 (around 7 000m) without much problem, if it was the fog and a few snowflakes caught them along the way.
  They are now in their tent at the edge of the clouds, the wind dropped: sacred word!
  The two Italians chose to leave that night from camp 3 to go directly to the top. Our two friends will stay on their program: Camp 4 tomorrow and after tomorrow the summit! At Camp 3, they house in their tent a Sherpa who picked the body of the damaged Japanese, Sherpa obviously very strong camp who carried out a base camp climb 4 in 7 hours!
  Morale is set fair, more than ever, we must believe!
  Good night friends...
  PS: they kiss to everyone !!!

  Monday, September 29, 2014
  Manaslu J29
  As expected our two friends went up to Camp 2 (6400 m) today. A climb with snow, and fog, which did not prevent big sunburn on his nose! Difficult climb with a trace not always obvious and snow bridges increasingly thin and fragile ... There is even an avalanche of seracs that came through the trace.

  There remain only two Italians on the 4 who had accompanied them yesterday, two of them finally gave up.
  However the altitude bearers of a Japanese expedition joined them this afternoon and tomorrow this dream team should mount directly to Camp 4 starting at 3:00 am. Our two friends will go a little later when the sun will warm tents.
  So hopefully tomorrow it will be the camp 3 to 7000 and Wednesday 4 camp and who knows?

  On Thursday, the summit?

  Fatigue is felt but morale is good, now we have to believe it!

  Sunday, September 28, 2014
  Manaslu J28
  Franck we had touched briefly yesterday but without certainty. However the news is confirmed today: A Japanese died on the mountain, probably suffered a fall of about thirty meters.

  Franck and Purna today at camp 1-5 700 m as they had expected.
  If all went well, however for 16 hours the clouds came and now it is snowing. Our climbers shake the tents a dozen times and the snow does not stop.
  Hopefully in this wet night episode will end and that mountaineers can climb safely to Camp 2.
  One thing is certain: the large sales teams are parties and the mountains found a certain serenity.
  The original program is still relevant in the hope the summit on October 2!
  Encourage them!

  Saturday, September 27, 2014
  Manaslu J27
  The wind chased the clouds, the weather returned as expected (it is very cold in hand before yesterday was lower than 24 ° (-24 ° C). This morning at the base camp and coming ahead of sub auspiciousness.

  Tomorrow morning, our two friends, in the company of Italians leave for camp 1, then September 29 they will join the camp 2, camp September 30 3-7 000 meters. October 1 they will camp 4-7 450 m and if everything goes as planned they will be at the summit on October 2!
  They think of all those who helped them to live this beautiful dream, special thought to Patrice Cullieret (which excused if his name is a bit scratched, satellite communication is not always on top).
  As they say "the die is cast" to them to play, to support us with lots of positive thoughts!
  Courage friends!

  J25 and J26 Manaslu
  Our two friends take rest at base camp after their getaway to 7000m ...
  Last night big bad weather: snow fell in abundance, perhaps 1m fresh to the base camp. It took time to clear move the tents and the mess tent collapsed ...
  The side of the commercial shipment of Russel Brice, it seems that about twenty customers have made the summit before yesterday ... Unlike our friends Russel Brice customers are abundantly provided in altitude porters and bottles oxygen ... which is not the case of Franck and Purna attempting to climb Manaslu to fair.

  So rest until the weather improves, and if the forecasts are good in two or three days our friends will go to the top. Meanwhile they treat their shape at base camp (it coughs some) and sent their good vibes for the coming days will be decisive.
  To be continued !

  Wednesday, September 24, 2014
  Manaslu J24
  The night was difficult in this camp 2-6 400m.
  Franck and Purna are mounted to Camp 3, located on a ridge about 7000 m altitude. They could set up a tent and to fly the flag of their sponsor Decor 2000! And then they came down to join the kitchen staff at base camp. Suffice to say that the day was long and exhausting ...
  The other climbers who use oxygen should take advantage of the two days of good times ahead to reach the top. For our friends is standing for 2 or 3 days and the hope of a future summit if the weather continues to beautiful.
  At the base camp, it rains gently while in altitude the sun is shining!
  We believe in.

  Manaslu J23
  It is 2:35 p.m. in France, the phone rings, it's a call Thuraya satellite phone and it is inevitably the friend Franck!
  They are 2-6 at Camp 400m!
  And they are snug in their down. The friend Purna prepared water, they could drink and eat properly now hopefully sleep.

  To climb to camp 2 our two climbers took off from 5700 m (camp 1) at 8 and 30 arrived in 6400 at 13h 15 m.
  As Frank said, "the route holds out its promises, it is both beautiful and terrifying, I counted no less than 8 ladders to cross crevasses that open onto the vertiginous peaks.

  It was sunny, almost no wind, cold just dawning with the night. If tomorrow we are in shape: We continue our journey to camp 3 with the hope to set up a tent. The show is certainly living up to our expectations: it's beautiful! "

  Monday, September 22, 2014
  Manaslu J22
  As expected our two friends are mounted quietly join the camp 1-5 700 m. A climb that went smoothly, now in their tent they rest eat and drink in abundance hoping a good night.
  If all goes well they will go tomorrow to camp 2-6 400 m, a different story by following a path that crosses the seracs "it feels like a house of cards," says Franck.
  The weather announces a 3 day slot beautiful 24th, 25th and 26th ... Then in the form and tomorrow they will force or not fate for a summit attempt? To have.

  One downside: unscrupulous climbers, if not more, serve in tents, Italians and Franck found the disappearance of food in their tents!


expid: PUTH14307
peakid: PUTH
year: 2014
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Alexander Scherl
sponsor: Furtenbach Adventures Putha Hiunchuli Expedition 2014
countries: Austria
approach: Flight to Jupal->Yak Kharka
bcdate: 2014-09-29
smtdate: 2014-10-08
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2014-10-12
campsites: BC(29/09,4950m),C1(02/10,5450m),C2(04/10,5900m),C3(07/10,6200m),Smt(08/10)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  BC  29/09  4950m 
  C1  02/10  5450m	
  C2  04/10  5900m
  C3  07/10  6200m
  Smt 08/10  by Scherl at 10 am.

  Scherl left C3 at 3:30 am. Weather was finem but windy. Straightforward climb. He stayed 20 minutes on the summit and descended to BC the same day.

  Herbst (client) reached C2 at 5900m, but turned back due to the storm.


expid: MNSL14302
peakid: MNSL
year: 2014
route1: SE side
nation: USA
leaders: Melissa Arnot
sponsor: Eddie Bauer First Ascents Mustang Expedition 2014
bcdate: 2014-10-22
smtdate: 2014-10-29
termdate: 2014-11-06
termnote: Abandoned at 6125m due to technical rock climbing required
campsites: BC(22/10,4937m),xxx(6125m)
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
primid: MUST14301
othersmts:
  Summited Mustang Himal (MUST-143-01); held permits for Mansail South (6248m) and Ghyun Himal I (6110m)(no attempts)

routememo:
  The three-member team flew from Kathmandu to Pokhara on 16 October. They took no Sherpas to help them in their exploration of a previously unclimbed area northwest of Lo Manthang in Upper Mustang on the border with Tibet. They succeeded in summiting one of them in the first ascent of 6195-meter Mustang Himal and made a serious attempt on Mansail, 6242 meters high.

  From Pokhara, they drove north-northeast to Jomsom, walked and drove north-northwest via Samura village and finally walked and skied to the last small village of Chung Chung (4270m) before their base camp. Chung Chung is above Lo Manthang and below the border crossing into Tibet. Their original plan was to climb three peaks clustered together: Mansail, Mansail South and Mustang Himal.

  On 22 October they made BC at 4937m in the southeast drainage below Mustang Himal. Four days later, their first high camp for Mustang Himal was pitched at 5334m in the same drainage. And the following night was spent in C2 at 5672m among rocks on the edge of a glacier.

  Now this attempt on Mustang Himal was aborted because of extremely deep snow, and the team moved east [west?] and north to the Nhubine Glacier to try to climb Mansail (6242m), a true border peak. On the 29th they got to 6125m, but here they were forced to turn back by the rock surface (below 6100m there was mixed rock and some snow, but above it was all exposed rock); they were not prepared for this technical rock climbing. Also by now it was after 4:00 pm, too late in the day to continue climbing upwards. They abandoned their attempt to scale Mansail and retreated to BC.

  They turned their attention once again to Mustang Himal: on 1 November they were back in C2 (5672m) and without fixing any rope, they ascended the slope of the North Face to the West Ridge at about 30 vertical meters below the top. On 2 November the three members left C2 at 8:30 am, were on the summit at 2:00 pm and returned to C2 at 5:30 pm in the perfect weather they had enjoyed almost every day of their climbing period. They were back in BC on the 4th and left it on 6th for Lo Manthang and the return trip to Kathmandu, including a miserable ride by tractor to Jomsom.


expid: ANN115103
peakid: ANN1
year: 2015
route1: N Face
nation: Australia
leaders: Christine Burke
sponsor: Annapurna I Spring 2015
approach: Kathmandu to BC by helicopter
bcdate: 2015-03-12
smtdate: 2015-03-23
termdate: 2015-04-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6750m due to earthquake
campsites: BC(12/03,4100m),C1(18/03,5300m),C2(20/03,5700m),C3(21/03,6500m),C4(22/03,6750m),xxx(23/03)
agency: Himalayan Ascent
routememo:
  When Lakpa and Burke reached their high point, they were on their acclimatization trip and descended to BC on 24 March. 

  They were at BC when the earthquake hit [on 25 April]. They definitely felt a shake, however, nothing major and no injuries.

  Burke by email:

  After the earthquake, we waited a few days and considered whether we would go back up the mountain. We considered trying to arrange to get more supplies and more oxygen, but after the scale of the earthquake devastation in other parts of Nepal became evident and learning it would not be possible to fly in new supplies (as helicopters were naturally required elsewhere) we had to abandon any plans to return for another summit push.

  Rope fixing:

  Team helped with ropes between C2 and C3. Dreamer's Destinations were at the mountain earlier than them and apparently fixed to C2. When they arrived, they were aiming to fix to C3 in 1.5 days. By Day 3 they were a long way off, so Lakpa went up to help and he led about 250m. The ropes were fixed to C3 by Day 4 of attempts.


expid: ANN115104
peakid: ANN1
year: 2015
route1: N Face
nation: USA
leaders: Alexander Barber
sponsor: Barber Annapurna I Spring 2015
approach: Helicopter to BC
bcdate: 2015-03-28
smtdate: 2015-04-23
termdate: 2015-04-30
termnote: Abandoned due to earthquake
campsites: BC(28/03,4100m),C1(01/14,5400m),C2(02/04,5700m),C3(22/04,6400m),C4(23/04,7000m),xxx
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  28/03  4100m
  C1  01/04  5400m
  C2  02/04  5700m
  C3  22/04  6400m
  C4  23/04  7000m 
  HPt 23/04  7000m by Barber.

  Barber reached the high point during his acclimatization trip. He was at BC when the earthquake occurred. It was foggy and he could not really see the avalanches around him, but heard them. When he realized that it was a bad earthquake, he abandoned expedition to do some volunteering work in Nepal. He flew to Gorkha on 30 April and did some relief work until 10 May. On 11 May he returned to Kathmandu.

  [Barber shared Seven Summit Treks base camp facilities, but climbed on his own without Sherpas or oxygen.]


expid: CHOY15103
peakid: CHOY
year: 2015
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Klaus Hoche
sponsor: Cho Oyu Germany Spring 2015
countries: France, Switzerland
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2015-04-17
smtdate: 2015-04-25
termdate: 2015-04-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to earthquake
campsites: BC(17/04,4900m),ABC(21/04,5500m),xxx(25/04,6000m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  17/04  4900m
  ABC 21/04  5500m 
  HPt 25/04  6000m on glacier.

  On 25 April when the earthquake hit, the team was carrying material towards C1. They were at about 6000m, when the earth started shaking. They immediately noticed it was a quake and even though they were worried about the seracs hanging over ABC, they descended to ABC.

  When the decision was taken to close Tibet for climbing, they left ABC on 27 April and descended to CBC.


expid: CHOY15104
peakid: CHOY
year: 2015
route1: NW side
nation: Canada
leaders: Heather Geluk
sponsor: The Nth Degree Himalayan Challenge
approach: Kodari->Tingri
termnote: Not attempted due to earthquake
othersmts: Attempted Xixabangma (abandoned due to earthquake)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Geluk was intending to climb both Cho Oyu and Shishapangma, so when the avalanche happened Geluk and Lhakpa Wangcbu were at crampon point of Shishapangma. They were in complete fog and could not see what was happening. After the mountains stopped shedding rocks and ice, they descended to ABC and left to come back to Kathmandu.

  They never reached Cho Oyu BC.


expid: CHOY15105
peakid: CHOY
year: 2015
route1: NW side
nation: Australia
leaders: John Spencer
sponsor: Team Health Cho Oyu 2015
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2015-04-19
smtdate: 2015-04-22
termdate: 2015-04-30
termnote: Abandoned at 5700m due to earthquake
campsites: BC(19/04,4900m),ABC(22/04,5700m),xxx(22/04)
agency: Dream Himalaya Adventures/Infinite Mountain Adv
routememo:
  BC  19/04  4900m
  ABC 22/04  5700m 
  HPt 22/04  5700m by Spencer, Fitzpatrick.

  We were all waiting for conditions to improve and then the earthquake occured. This triggered a huge avalanche that happened on the mountain opposite the camps, so fortunately there were no accidents or injuries on Cho Oyu as a result of the earthquake. The weather appeared to be improving and we were confident of making some progress, but a meeting was called on 29th April and we were informed by the Chinese liaison officer that the Chinese and Tibetan Mountaineering Association along with the Chinese government had decided to close all 8000m mountains in Tibet and that we would all be evacuated to Lhasa.


expid: CHOY15106
peakid: CHOY
year: 2015
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Daniel Nash
sponsor: Satori Cho Oyu Expedition Spring 2015
countries: Georgia, Germany, Czech Republic, New Zealand
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2015-04-16
smtdate: 2015-04-26
termdate: 2015-05-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to earthquake
campsites: BC(16/04,4900m),ABC(23/04,5700m),xxx(26/04,6000m)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  BC  16/04  4900m
  ABC 23/04  5700m 
  HPt 26/04  6000m by all members and Sherpas.

  The team was having lunch at ABC when the earthquake hit. They saw several avalanches coming down from the mountain.

  When the Chinese government decided to close all the mountains they were forced to abandon the expedition. As they were unable to go to Nepal because of the destroyed roads, the CTMA transported them back to Lhasa.


expid: DHA115101
peakid: DHA1
year: 2015
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Teppei Kamitani
sponsor: Teppei Dhaulagiri I Expedition
approach: Pokhara->Jugapani
bcdate: 2015-04-20
smtdate: 2015-04-22
termdate: 2015-04-29
termnote: Abandoned at 5700m due to earthquake and too much snow
campsites: BC(20/04,4600m),C1(22/04,5700m),xxx(22/04,5700m)
agency: Himalayan Sherpa Adventure
routememo:
  BC  20/04  4600m
  C1  22/04  5700m			
  HPt 22/04  5700m by Kamikanti.

  Kamitani was at BC during the earthquake. He was intending to climb solo, without Sherpas and without oxygen.


expid: EVER15133
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Malaysia
leaders: Azim Afif Ishak
sponsor: Misi Perdana UTM Everest 2015
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2015-04-09
smtdate: 2015-04-15
termdate: 2015-05-02
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to earthquake
campsites: BC(09/04,5350m),xxx(15/04,5800m)
agency: Ever Quest Expeditions
routememo:
  BC  09/04  5350m
  HPt 15/04  5800m on acclimatization trip through the Icefall by all members
             of the expedition.

  When the earthquake occured, the team was in their mess tent at BC. They got dusted but no injuries.


expid: EVER15128
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: David Hahn
sponsor: Rainier Mountaineering (RMI) Everest Expedition 2015
countries: China, Germany
bcdate: 2015-04-04
smtdate: 2015-04-24
termdate: 2015-04-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to earthquake and avalanche
campsites: BC(04/04,5350m),C1(23/04,6000m),xxx(24-26/04,6500m)
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  Hahn's team were one of the earliest to get to BC and therefore were able to pitch their camp not far below the Khumbu Icefall, when the the earthquake triggered avalanching suddenly descended on the BC area on 25 April, their BC was in "a good spot and just got dusted by the enormous slides off of Pumori." No one on this expedition was killed or seriously injured. It was the middle third of the mile-long area of various camps that was devastated by the quake.

  At the time of the quake, all RMI members except Seaton, who had various health problems, and all climbing Sherpas were in C1 at 6000m. They had reached C1 on the 23rd, and during the period 24-26 April the seven members and 11 Sherpas who were in C1 rotated higher and "touched" C2 at 6500m. But the day after the quake it was clear that it was "hopeless" to try climb Everest, and the decision to abandon the expedition was taken on the 28th.

  The people in C2 spent a total of four nights there, then flew by helicopter to BC and left on the 30th. By this time no one was going to attempt the mountain: the Icefall doctors, who install the fix ropes all the way to C2, had fled. No member had set food above C2; there were no fixed lines above there, and the whole area was still shaking days after the quake.

  Hahn is not keen to climb Everest again. He has summited it 15 times and made five other attempts. It is much too crowded nowadays; he would enjoy climbing alone, but not in the massive crowds that Everest attracts.


expid: EVER15123
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Everest Expedition 2014
countries: Canada, Japan, Poland, UK, USA
bcdate: 2015-04-10
smtdate: 2015-04-12
termdate: 2015-05-06
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to earthquake
othersmts: Summited Lobuche East by all members
campsites: BC(10/04,5350m),xxx.Mbrs(19/04,5500m),xxx.Shrpas(12-19/04,6100m)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  The Himex Everest and Lhotse expeditions were early arrivals at BC: their camp was established on 10 April. The members went next to Lobuche East to acclimatize, and all summited it on 14 April. Then they returned to Everest BC on the 18th.

  The next day one Everest member, Julian Mountain, ventured into the Icefall as far as the "football field" at about 5500m. Meanwhile their Sherpas moved up to C1 to dump loads and descend to BC from the 12th to the 19th.

  But there was no significant movement of these members or Sherpas on Everest or Lhotse any higher. The earthquake hit the area of the 25th of April. The Icefall doctors, the Sherpas who install the fixed ropes up to C2, fled and climbing came to an abrupt halt.

  The Himex climbers were evacuated from C1 and BC on 6 May in an orientation that began with the Himex Makalu team's evacuation from Hillary BC by helicopters that then picked up the Khumbu teams and flew all of them to Kathmandu.


expid: EVER15130
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Kenya
leaders: Steven Obbayi
sponsor: Kenyan Everest Expedition 2015
approach: Lukla->Thami->Pheriche
bcdate: 2015-04-11
smtdate: 2015-04-25
termdate: 2015-04-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to earthquake
campsites: BC(11/04,5350m),C1(24/01,6100m),C2(25/04,6300m),xxx
agency: Explore Himalaya (Expedition Himalaya pmt)
routememo:
  Obbayi was at C2 when the earthquake occured. He was with his Sherpa [Karma] and they were both fine. They were helicoptered back to BC on 27 April.


expid: EVER15131
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Ireland
leaders: Paul Devaney
sponsor: Ascent Himalayas Everest Expedition 2015
countries: France, Japan, Mexico, Norway
approach: Chhukung->Island Peak
bcdate: 2015-04-14
smtdate: 2015-04-24
termdate: 2015-04-26
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to avalanche triggered by earthquake
campsites: BC(14/04,5350m),xxx.Mbrs(24/04,5700m),xxx.Shrpas(6400m)
agency: Ascent Himalayas
routememo:
  BC  14/04  5350m	
  HPt 24/04  5700m at the football field by entire team.

  Team was on their acclimatization trip when they reached their high point on 24 April. During the earthquake they were in their dining tent at BC and got badly shaken and dusted by the avalanche.

  They decided to leave BC midday on 26 April as soon as their Sherpas were safely back from C2. They relocated to Pheriche to wait there to assess the situation for a few days. They then decided on 29th April to keep descending as it was clear that the season could not restart.

  The team remained in Kathmandu until 15 May doing relief work.


