# exped

expid: EVER11166
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Norway
leaders: Anny Kvithyll
sponsor: Norwegian [and American] on Everest
countries: USA
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2011-04-18
smtdate: 2011-05-20
termdate: 2011-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 8500m due to cold fingers
campsites: BC(18/04,5200m),ABC(24/04,6500m),C1(28/04,7000m),C2(18/05,7500m),C3(19/05,8300m),xxx(20/05,8500m)
agency: Loben Expeditions
routememo:
  Kvithyll along with her two climbing Sherpas left C3 at 9:30 pm on 20 May. They reached First Step (8500m) at midnight. They waited for 40 minutes at the First Step. It was getting very cold and wind started picking up. Kvithyll's fingers started getting cold. Then she decided to turn around. They arrived C3 at 1:30 am of 21 May. They stayed there until 7 am then went down to C1. Next day, 22 May, they descended to ABC.

  Ang Tashi got sick on 26 May. Kvithyll said that perhaps Ang Tashi's intestine was damaged due to carrying heavy loads on the mountain as Ngata had not cooperated to carry loads. She was disappointed by the behaviour of Ngada.

  Sherpa:
    Ang Tashi, 18/08/81, Makalu
    Ngata (Nada, Ngada), 2/2/76, Ghunsa 


  Billi Bierling - 11 June 2017

  Shieh Winston and Nima Gombu climbed with Anny Kvithyll. Winston stopped at C3. Nima Gombu then joined with Chhirring Dorje and Annelie Pompe to summit with a Swedish team.


expid: EVER11161
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dennis Broadwell
sponsor: Mountain Gurus Everest Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Debuche->Pheriche->Lobuche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2011-04-21
smtdate: 2011-05-15
smttime: 0530
termdate: 2011-05-17
campsites: BC(21/04,5364m),C1(23/04,6065m),C2(28/04,6400m),C3(05/05,7010m),C4(15/05,7924m),Smt(15/05)
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  Dickinson reached the summit on May 15 at 5:30 am from the South Col after starting at around 1:30 am. On the summit day, the weather was windy and most of the climbers had stayed behind in C4. Dickinson spent about 30 minutes in the summit. He started his descent and reached the South Col at 1 pm where his team member Dennis Broadwell had been waiting. While descending from the summit Dickinson had snowblindness because he had forgotten to take his snow goggles.

  As for Broadwell, he had to abandon his climb because his Sherpa Nawang had problems with his oxygen mask regulator and they did not have sufficient oxygen to go up. Dickinson's Sherpa, Pasang could not accompany him hecause he had been sick since they reached C4, and did not think it was appropriate to go up. On May 14, all of them went down to C2. They spent the night there and headed to Pheriche the next day (May 17), and reached there the same day.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Temba, Lukla, 6/2043, Everest X2 5/25/10 & 9/15/2010
    Ngawang Lhakpa, Chaplung


expid: EVER11160
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Ganesh Chandra Jena
sponsor: Orissa Everest Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Tengboche->Dingboche->Lobuche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2011-04-16
smtdate: 2011-05-18
smttime: 0915
termdate: 2011-05-24
campsites: BC(16/04,5400m),C1(24/04,6100m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(26/04,7060m),C4(17/05,7900m),Smt(18/05)
accidents: Minor frostbites
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Reached the summit on May 18 at 9:15 am after starting at 8:45 pm. He spent about 15 minutes on the summit. The weather was very bad. Started descend to C4 and reached the destination at 5 pm. Spent the night on C4. On May 19 started to C2 at around 8 am and reached there at 3 pm and spent the night there. On May 20 reached the base camp at 1 pm after starting at 7 am.

  First summit push on May 13 from C3, but had to return from 7200m due to unfavourable weather conditions, extremely windy.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Kami Sherpa, Aug 21, 1982, (Bhadra 5, 2039), Solukhumbu, Everest X3
    Dawa Jangbu Sherpa, April 28, 1986, Namche-8, Solukhumbu, 
      Everest X4 [?], Cho Oyu 2006, Ama Dablam 2009 [?], Shishapangma 2007
    Tashi Tshering Bhote, March 21, 1985, Taplejung


expid: EVER11159
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Pemba Dorje Sherpa
sponsor: Everest Nepal Expedition (Nepal Cycling Association)
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2011-04-21
smtdate: 2011-05-21
smttime: 0550
termdate: 2011-05-23
campsites: BC(21/04,5200m),ABC(24/04,6400m),C1(18/05,7000m),C2(19/05,7600m),C3(20/05,8300m),Smt(21/05)
agency: World Summit Explorer
routememo:
  They reached the summit at 5:50 am (NST) on May 23 from C3. Started at 9 pm on May 20. Spent about 30 minutes in the summit, cleaning the summit and taking pictures. They brought down banners and prayer flags. People from the Seven Summits Adventure Group were ahead of him on the summit. Then descended to C1 (8 pm) and slept there. On May 22, went down to ABC (7 am-8:30 am) slept there. On May 25, reached base camp.

  He claims to be the first person from the Nepali Sports Fraternity to make it to the summit; also the first person from Manang district.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Dorje Sherpa, Dolakha, Gaurishankar-1, 27 April 1977, 
      Everest X11 (set record for the fastest climb in May 2004)

  Gurung did not have any trekking agency; he went with Pemba.


  NPC Secretary Meets Chhimi Gurung (Mt. Everest Climber Sport Worker)
  (www.paralympic.org.np/news/view/5)

  Today on 31st May 2011, NPC Secretary Mr. Hashanah Khatiwada meets Mr. Chhimi Gurung, Treasurer of NOC and President of Nepal Cycling Association. Mr. Gurung successfully climb the world highest 8848m peak Mount Everest on 21st May 2011 with the seven members of team. With Mr. Gurung they were Pemba Dorji Sherpa (12 times Mt Everest climber, Guinness Book of World Records holder), Phurba Tenzing Sherpa (5 times Mt. Everest Climber), Mingma Sherpa (4 times Mt. Everest Climber), Dawa Kipa Sherpa (4 Times Mt. Everest Climber), Nawang Phuti Sherpa (2 times Mt. Everest Climber) and Jungbu Sherpa (1st time Mt. Everest Climber)

  [Note: Dawa Kipa and Mingma Tshering were attached to Bangladesh (Mohit) expedition.]


  Mount Everest Cleaning Expedition
  (www.nocnepal.org.np/index.php?listId=85)

  Today 26 May 2011

  President of Nepal Olympic Committee Mr. Dhruba Bahadur Pradhan felicitated Mr. Chhim Urkyen Gurung, Treasurer of Nepal Olympic Committee as well as President of Nepal Cycling Association on his successful Mount Everest cleaning expedition. On the auspicious occasion of felicitation program Secretary General Mr. Jeevan Ram Shrestha and executive members of NOC Nepal were also present. The program organized by Nepal Olympic Committee at Satdobato, Lalitpur. He reached at the highest peak in the World, Mt. Everest (8848m) on 21st May, 2011 at 5:50 am (NST). Mr. Gurung had commenced his expedition on 19th April, 2011. Along with him seven mountaineers of his Expedition also successfully conquer the summit. He is the first Executive Member of Nepal Olympic Committee to scale the world's highest summit. In his expedition, his team collected 150 kg of scattered garbage from the Mt. Everest.


expid: EVER11157
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Bhagyashree Sawant
sponsor: Adventure Extreme Everest Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2011-04-25
smtdate: 2011-05-22
termdate: 2011-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to snowstorm
campsites: BC(25/04,5900m),ABC(05/05,6200m),C1(20/05,7000m),C2(21/05,7900m),xxx(22/05,8000m)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Sawant and Lakpa left C2 on 22 May at 11:30 am CST. They reached 8000m at 1 pm, then started a snowstorm and they returned to C2 at 3 pm. They continued to C1.


expid: EVER11154
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Susmita Maskey
sponsor: Extreme Sports for Gender Equality Everest Expedition 2011
approach: Lukla->Pheriche->Lobuche (flew by helicopter to Pheriche)
bcdate: 2011-04-24
smtdate: 2011-05-18
smttime: 0645
termdate: 2011-05-21
campsites: BC(24/04,5300m),C2(07/05,6450m),C4(17/05,7900m),Smt(18/05)
accidents: Abdominal infections at the base camp while going up
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  She reached the summit on May 18 at 6:45 am after starting from C4 at 8:15 pm on May 17. She spent about 10 minutes in the summit. The weather on summit day was very windy, about 70 km/hr. A group of about 15 people from the Civil Servants expedition were ahead of her. She reached C2 from the summit and spent the night there on May 15. On May 19, she reached the base camp. 

  Initially, she had planned to summit twice but had to cancel the idea after her first Sherpa, Mingma Sherpa, fell sick at the base bamp, leaving her with no other option but to hire another Sherpa Ang Dawa. She said she was running out of time to carry out out what she had planned, to summit twice in one season. 

  Summit push: 
    May 15 from BC to C2 (slept)
    May 16 from C2 to C4 (slept)
    May 17 from C4 to summit.

  Sherpa:
    Ang Dawa, Kharikhola, 18/11/84, Everest from north


expid: KANG11107
peakid: KANG
year: 2011
route1: SW Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Christian Stangl
ascent1: 85th
approach: From sea leval in Indian resort Digha on west to Taplejung
bcdate: 2011-04-07
smtdate: 2011-05-20
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2011-05-24
campsites: BC(07/04,5500m),C1(12/04,6100m),C3(30/04,7000m),C4(18/04,7400m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking (Bolotov pmt)
routememo:
  Stangl approached the mountain from sea level. He arrived in Kathmandu in late February, left on 5 March for Calcutta, travelled down the beach of the Indian Ocean to a vacation resort, Digha. This was his starting point for Kangchenjunga, and from here he moved on foot and by Indian bicycle through the Indian state of West Bengal, then north in Nepal to Taplejung, with a friend, Chris Schmid. At Taplejung, his friend turned back, but here Stangl met the Russian Kangchenjunga team led by Alexei Bolotov. With one of its members, Nikolai Totmyanin, Stangl trekked to BC, where they arrived on 7 April.

  Stangl climbed Kangchenjunga independently of others on the same permit. He skipped C2 as he progressed up the mountain in April, but he summited on 20 May in the company of Mario Panzeri (Spanish) and Tunc Findik (Turkish) at about 7:30 am in "perfect" weather. He had left C4 at 10:00 pm the night before and returned there about noon to spend the night.

  About C4: Stangl stayed in the C4 tent of Mario Panzeri during the night of 18th, then on the 19th he descended to C3 to get his own tent, took it back up to C4, and rested in it for a while before going up to the summit on the 20th and returning to it to spend that night.


expid: KANG11108
peakid: KANG
year: 2011
route1: SW Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Oscar Cadiach
ascent1: 90th
approach: See route details
bcdate: 2011-04-14
smtdate: 2011-05-20
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2011-05-23
campsites: BC(14/04,5500m),C1(19/04,6100m),C2(28/04,6450m),C3(14/05,7100m),C4(19/05,7500m),Smt(20/05)
accidents: Cadiach suffered from high altitude sickness
achievment: 2nd Spanish woman to summit
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Approach: 
    Rosa Fernandez helicopter to Ramche, Tseram BC.
    Cadiach: Bharatpur, Taplejung, Kharka, Newang, Amage, Yamphudin, Tseram, Ramche,
      BC on 20 April.

  This Spanish team of two climbers led by Cadiach included Fernandez. They were supposed to climb together, but their dates of arrival to Kathmandu and departures to the mountain were on different dates.

  The summit push: Cadiach left C4 at 6 pm of 19 May without supplementary oxygen for the summit and Fernandez left the camp at 7:30 pm with supplementary oxygen and her Sherpa Ang Kami. Fernandez got to the top at 8 am on 20 May and stayed on top for about 35 minutes. She descended to C4 where she reached at about 2:30 pm. She spent the night there and next day 21 May went down to BC.

  Cadiach without supplementary oxgyen and without Sherpa got to 8300m [8100m according to Brands] at 4 am of 20 May and ran out of energy due to the long walk. Swiss climber Brands on his way up found Cadiach standing and shivering. Brands continued his climb about 100m, but decided to return to Cadiach thinking that he need help to go down. Brands tried to give his oxygen to Cadiach, first he refused to use it. Cadiach said that he used Brand's oxygen for about three minutes in two different times. They got to C4 about 10 am. Next day 21 May Cadiach went down to BC.

  Rosa Fernandez's Sherpa: 
    Ang Kami 13/02/2044, Makalu-9


expid: KANG11109
peakid: KANG
year: 2011
route1: SW Face
nation: India
leaders: Basanta Kumar Singha Roy
sponsor: Bengal Kangchenjunga Expedition 2011
ascent1: 87th
approach: See route details
bcdate: 2011-04-13
smtdate: 2011-05-20
smttime: 0745
termdate: 2011-05-24
campsites: BC(13/04,5500m),C1(20/04,6200m),C2(29/04,6400m),C3(14/05,7000m),C4(16/05,7600m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Loben Expeditions
routememo:
  Approach: Medi Bung->Sunga->Khewang->Yamphudin->Toradin->Tseram->Ramche->
    Yalung BC    

  Biswas, Singha Roy, Nga Tashi, Pasang Phutar and Pemba Chhoti started their summit bid at 17:15 hours on 19 May and got to the top at 7:45 hours on 20 May. The team stayed on summit for 90 minutes and descended to C4 at 20:30 hours. On 21 May they went down to C2 and on 22 May to BC.

  The members did not come to Kathmandu. 

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Phutar, 3/7/61 (20/14/2037), Yaphu-9
    Pemba Chuti (Chhoti), 15/7/73 (06/09/2030), Yaphu-9
    Nga Tashi, 4/10/80 (18/6/2037), Yaphu-9


expid: KANG11110
peakid: KANG
year: 2011
route1: SW Face
nation: Australia
leaders: Blair Falahey
sponsor: Australian Kangchenjunga Expedition
ascent1: 91st
approach: Helicopter to Ramche->Tseram
bcdate: 2011-04-15
smtdate: 2011-05-20
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2011-05-24
campsites: BC(15/04,5500m),C1(24/04,6100m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(15/05,7100m),C4(19/05,7500m),Smt(20/05)
achievment: Maybe the 3rd Australian to top
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Falahey and Dawa left C4 at 8:30 pm on 19 May for the summit. They reached to the top at 8:30 am on 20 May, stayed on summit for 30 minutes and returned to C4 at around 1:30 pm. They spent the night at C4. Next day Falahey and Dawa descended to BC. Other climbers ahead of Falahey team on summit were Chinese climbers and three Sherpas, Iranian Gheichisaz, a Serbian climber, Spanish climber Fernandez, Ted Atkins and his climbing partner and also the Indians. The weather was very good.

  Sherpa:
    Chang Dawa Sherpa, 30/7/82 (15/04/2039), Norbu Chaur, Makalu-9, Everest X2, 
      Cho Oyu X1, Lhotse X1, Makalu X1


expid: KANG11111
peakid: KANG
year: 2011
route1: SW Face
nation: France
leaders: Ludovic Challeat
sponsor: French Kangchenjunga Expedition 2011
ascent1: 80th
countries: Switzerland
approach: Started from Tharpu on 11 April
bcdate: 2011-04-20
smtdate: 2011-05-19
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2011-05-22
campsites: BC(20/04,5500m),C1(25/04,6170m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(30/04,7000m),C4(18/05,7560m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Expes.com Treks
routememo:
  C4 at 7560m 80m above of International Expedition and the Russian Expedition.

  Fixed rope: 500m contributed to Mingma's team.

  The French team's summit push started from C4 at 22:00 on 18 May in light snowfall. The team consisted of Phu Dorchi, Pemba, Pasang Tendi, Dawa Nurbu, Rosset, Zuberer, Gatta, Haehlen and Challeat. All except Gatta were without supplementary oxygen.

  Challeat wrote in his email that before the summit push he talked to Mingma (Seven Summits Trekking International Expedition) at BC that his members were unable to make the track and only Sherpas worked. French team and Mingma agreed to break the trail to summit together. Challeat further added that when the started on the 18 May nobody from other expedition were there to go with the French team. When the French team reached at 8000m after four hours climb, trail was in deep snow and there was no track. Further up from 8200m, the slope became steeper (40 degrees to 45 degrees) and the snow was hard and there was no fixed ropes. At that point Zuberer thought that it could be dangerous to continue to summit and to come down without any fixed rope. So she decided to go down and descended with Pemba Sherpa.

  At 8200m, Alexei Bolotov (Russian Expedition) joined the French team and followed the team. Rosset continued up to the end of the couloir (8300m) and decided to turn around because he was very tired and thought that it may be very difficult to go to summit and to return. Challeat continued with Gatta and Sherpas behind them were Bolotov and Haehlen.

  Challeat team reached summit at 9 am. There was no wind but heavy cloud over the summit. After 10 minutes Bolotov arrived. They had snap shots on the summit. Challeat stayed 15 minutes on the top and started his descent followed by everybody. He met Haehlen on short rappel (5m) 10 minutes below the summit. He got to the summit around 9:40 am. Challeat team got down to C4 after three hours. They kept going. On 19 May he went down to C2 with Zuberer and Rosset. The Challeat team went down to BC on the 20th May.

  Wojcik was sick and didn't go above 6800m.

  Tornay was sick; she climbed up to C4 on the 17 May, but went down to C2 on 18 May and BC on the 19 May.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Tendi Sherpa, 30/7/88 (15/04/2045), Namche-9
    Dawa Nurbu Sherpa, 26/6/82 (12/03/2039), Namche-9
    Phu Dorchi Sherpa, 30/4/82 (17/01/2039), Makalu-5
    Pemba Sherpa, 4/9/71 (19/5/2028), Taksindu-6


expid: KANG11113
peakid: KANG
year: 2011
route1: SW Face
nation: China
leaders: Yang Chun-Feng
sponsor: Chinese Kangchenjunga Expedition 2011
ascent1: 84th
approach: Helicopter to Ramche (two camps)
bcdate: 2011-04-14
smtdate: 2011-05-20
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2011-05-23
campsites: BC(14/04,5400m),C1(18/04,6200m),C2(22/04,6400m),C3(15/05,7000m),C4(17/05,7500m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Rao, Yang, Sange and Nima started their summit push from C4 at 6 pm on 19 May. They arrived summit at 6 am on 20 May and stayed on the summit around an hour. They descended to C4 at 2 pm and slept there. Next day 21 May went down to BC. Weather on summit day was good, no wind. Ahead of the Yang team on the summit were Mingma and the Iranian climber Gheichisaz. Many climbers followed the Chinese team. 

  Ge climbed up to C2 on 22 April and spent night there. He left BC on 7 May due to business back home. Ge returned to Kathmandu on 14 May and left for home on 15 May.

  Sherpas:
    Sangay Furi, 24/11/70 (9/8/2027), Makalu-9, Kangchenjunga X2
    Ngima Thundu/Thendu, 25/8/82 (9/5/2039), Makalu-9


expid: LHOT11107
peakid: LHOT
year: 2011
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Garrett Madison
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Everest & Lhotse Expedition 2011
countries: S Africa
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2011-04-14
smtdate: 2011-05-15
smttime: 0530
termdate: 2011-05-31
othersmts: Climbed Everest on 14 and 19 May
campsites: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(20/04,5900m),C2(22/04,6400m),C3(29/04,7300m),C4(13/05,8000m),Smt(15,20/05)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
primid: EVER11149
routememo:
  Horst left the South Col after climbing Everest at midnight of 14 May. He descended via Geneva Spur and ascended via Lhotse C4. AAI Sherpas had fixed rope the previous day. He spent half an hour on summit and descended to C2, where he arrived at 10 am.

  Kami Rita, Madison and Halliday left South Col on 19 May at 9:45 pm. After summiting Everest they descended via Geneva Spur and ascended via Lhotse C4. When they reached summit it was still dark so they waited until sunrise. They descended to C2, arrived 9 am. 

  Kami Rita had stayed at South Col while team climbed Everest.


expid: LHOT11108
peakid: LHOT
year: 2011
route1: W Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Kazuyoshi Kondo
sponsor: Hiun Chituwa Lhotse Expedition 2011
bcdate: 2011-04-20
smtdate: 2011-05-20
smttime: 0825
termdate: 2011-05-23
campsites: BC(20/04,5350m),C1(27/04,6050m),C2(04/05,6450m),C3(18/05,7200m),C4(19/05,7750m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Bochi Bochi Treks
routememo:
  Approach: Lukla, Manikob, tried to go to Mera La, but lots of snow ,then returned to Kan/Kob, Nurpang, Phakding, Namche, Thamo, Tempo, Parchemo BC; attempted to summit Parchemo on 11 April but had to turn around from 100m below the summit due to bad weather. Namche, Pangboche, Takura.

  Kondo's summit push started from BC to C2 on 17 May. C2 to C3 on 18 May and C3 to C4 on 19 May. Kondo and Bibas left C4 at 3:15 am on 20 May. They got to the top at 8:25 am and stayed on summit for 35 minutes then returned to C4 at 10:35 am where they stayed 3 hours. Kondo and Bibas arrived C2 at 5:55 pm. Next day 21 May reached BC. Summit day weather was very good. No wind clear sky, but around noon time there was cloud and little snowfall. The young Indian climber Arjun Vajpai was on summit together with his three Sherpas. Kono said that the oldest and youngest were on the summit on same day.

  Hired:
    Bibas Gurung, 06/06/1988, Hatiya-7


expid: LHOT11109
peakid: LHOT
year: 2011
route1: W Face
nation: Hungary
leaders: Laszlo Mecs
sponsor: Hungarian Lhotse Expedition 2011
approach: Lukla->Namche->Tengboche->Pheriche->Lobuche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2011-04-20
smtdate: 2011-05-21
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2011-05-24
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak on 23 April (all except Kollar)
campsites: BC(20/04,5300m),C2(28/04,6400m),C3(04/05,7100m),C4(20/05,7850m),Smt(21/05)
accidents: Gal got frostbite all fingers of both hands on 22 May while descending (not very serious)
achievment: Eross 1st Hungarian to summit with prosthetic leg (right)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  The two Hungarian climbers started their summit push on 21 May from C4. Gal left at 3 am and Eross at 5 am. Gal got to the top at 4 pm, stayed on summit for about an hour and returned to C4 at 7 pm. Eross reached summit at 5 pm stayed on summit for 15 minutes then descended to C4 at 9 pm. 

  Earlier Mecs too started from C4 at 4 am. When he got to 7900m around 4:30 am, he vomitted and could not drink water. So he turned around to C4 then continued to C2 with Horvath. The summit members Zsolt Eross and Laszlo Gal spent night at C4 and next day to BC. 

  Lajos Kollar remained at BC. 

  The summit day weather was nice, no wind, sunny but morning was cold.


expid: LHOT11110
peakid: LHOT
year: 2011
route1: W Face
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Armand Dirks
sponsor: Climb for Water
approach: Lukla->Namche->Debuche->Pheriche->Lobuche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2011-04-24
smtdate: 2011-05-19
termdate: 2011-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 8200m due to bad weather and tiredness
campsites: BC(24/04,5400m),C1(30/03,6000m),C2(07/05,6600m),C3(17/05,7500m),C4(18/05,8000m),xxx(19/05,8200m)
agency: Mountain Consult
routememo:
  Dirks went up to C1 on 30 April. His knee got twisted and he went down to BC and left BC on 15 May. He returned to Kathmandu on 19 May. 

  Wessels planned to go to the summit on 20 May. She was waiting at South Col for Namgyal to return from Everest Summit to go to Lhotse. Wessels and Namgyal climbed up to 8200m on 19 May, then weather became bad and the team descended to C4 and slept there. Next day went down to C2 and the following day to BC.

  Sherpa:
    Namgyal, 5/10/77 (19/06/2034), Rakha Bangdel, Khotang, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X4


expid: MAKA11106
peakid: MAKA
year: 2011
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Cha Jin-Chol
sponsor: 2011 Daegu Makalu Expedition Korea, Cha Jin-Chol
bcdate: 2011-03-30
smtdate: 2011-05-17
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2011-05-23
campsites: BC(30/03,5600m),ABC(05/04,5900m),C1(07/04,6600m),C2(02/05,7400m),C3(16/05,7600m),Smt(17-18/05)
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal
routememo:
  Approach: Tumlingtar, Khadbari, Num, Sedua, Tashigaon, Komyang, Chobeto, Yangri Kharka, Tadasa, Langmale Kharka, Makalu BC.

  On their summit bid Cha, Eun, Mingmar and Tapchen left C3 at 9:30 pm on 16 May. They got to the summit at 11 am on 17 May and stayed on summit for 40 minutes, then descended to C3 at 4 pm. Eun, Mingmar and Tapchen slept at C3; Cha went down to C2 and spent the night there. Next day 18 May all of them went down to BC. On 18 May Eun realized that three of his toes in both feet had frostbite. He was helicopter lifted from BC on 21 May. He left Nepal on 26 May. Weather on 17 May was clear night and during the day it was cloudy. There were 3 members and 4 Sherpas of Jagged Globe who summited on that day.

  On 17 May Hong, Kim and Nima Gyaljen left C3 at 10 pm for the summit. At 8100m the pipe connecting to regulator of oxygen cylinder used by Hong was broken and hit his mouth breaking three of his front teeth. Hong then turned around to C3. He also suffered from lung infection and left BC on 21 May by helicopter with Eun. Kim and Nima continued their climb and got to the summit at 5:30 am on 18 May. They stayed on summit for 40 minutes and descended to C3 at 4 pm and slept there. Next day 19 May all went down to BC. On 18 May the weather way up was good but while descending was stormy. No other expeditions summited on that day.

  Park Jun-Won was helicopter lifted from BC on 14 April due to lung infection. He was hospitalized for four days in Kathmandu, then left Nepal on 28 April.

  Kim Seung-Ho climbed up to C1; he left BC on 5 May and returned to Kathmandu on 10 May and left Nepal on 12 May.

  Park Young-Woo climbed up to C1. Yoo suffered from altitude sickness at ABC. Both Park Young-Woo and Yoo left BC on 10 May by helicopter. They left Nepal on 19 May.

  Fixed rope: 4000m put up jointly up to C3.

  Sherpas:
    Mingmar Tamang, 23/09/64, Kerung-1, Solu
    Tapchen Bhote, 14/11/79, Hatiya-3, Sankhuwasabha
    Ngima Gyalzen Sherpa, 12/5/84, Chheskam-2, Solu


expid: MANA11105
peakid: MANA
year: 2011
route1: NE Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Park Sang-Soo
sponsor: 2011 Manaslu Expedition for Freedom
approach: Arughat->Jagat->Machha Khola->Deng->Namrung->Samagaon
bcdate: 2011-03-31
smtdate: 2011-05-09
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2011-05-10
campsites: BC(31/03,4800m),C1(15/04,5400m),C2(17/04,6400m),C3(26/04,6900m),C4(28/04,7350m),Smt(09/05)
accidents: Kim Mi-Gon's left toes frostbite (he had frostbite in 2010 on same peak)
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal
routememo:
  Fixed rope = 2200m from C1 to C4.

  Kim Mi-Gon, Sanu and Chinjung Bhote started their summit bid from C4 at midnight of 8 May. The team got to the top at 6 am on 9 May. Six-seven members of Indian expedition with two Sherpas also reached the summit almost same time. The team stayed on summit for about an hour and descended to C4 at 9:15 am. The team continued to descend to BC where it arrived at 3:30 pm.

  The main objective of the expedition was to bring dead body of Park and to search for another missing climber Yun in 2010 (Korea Expressway Corporation Expedition - Spring). The search team consisting of Kim Mi-Gon, Sanu and Tashi Sherpa found the body of Park at 7550m on 28 April and carried down to C3. On 29 April the body was taken down to C2. Then the body was taken to Samagaon by helicopter on 4 May and same day to Kathmandu. Park's body was cremated in Kathmandu on 11 May at the presence of his father, sister and aunt.

  The team searched for the other missing climber Yun's body for three days around 7300m, but there was no trace of body and they called off the search.

  High points of other climbers:
    Kim Dok-Sin climbed up to C3 on 7 May
    Lee climbed up to 7200m on 7 May
    Park Sang-Soo, leader remained in BC
    Park Nam-Soo climbed up to C4 on 7 May
    Shin climbed up to 7200 on 8 May
    Yun climbed up to C3 on 29 April

  Sherpas:
    Sanu Sherpa, 30/4/75 (17/1/2032), Walung, Makalu-9
    Chinjung Bhote, 8/2/92 (25/10/2048), Hatiya-1


expid: MANA11106
peakid: MANA
year: 2011
route1: NE Face
nation: Iran
leaders: Alireza Behpour
sponsor: Iranian Manaslu Expedition
approach: Arughat->Khorsani Bari->Machha Khola->Sallaghari->Ghat->Samagaon
bcdate: 2011-04-18
smtdate: 2011-05-09
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2011-05-13
campsites: BC(18/04,4850m),C1(22/04,5650m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3(07/05,6850m),C4(08/05,7500m),Smt(09/05)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  The Iranian expedition started its summit push all together at 1 am on 9 May from C4. The expedition members and Sherpas arrived at 7700m at 3 am. It was very cold and they turned around to C4. 

  Hasmi Sougheh, Mami Golestau, Lhakpa and Nima started again from C4 at 6 am and they got to the summit at 1 pm. They stayed on summit for 15 minutes, then descended to C4 at 3:30 pm. Next day 10 May the team spent night at C2 and on 11 May went down to BC. Weather on summit day, morning was clear and good in summit, it was cloudy. Ahead of the Iranian team there were about 15 Indian climbers and a Korean team.

  Sherpas:
    Ngima Tenji Sherpa, 31/8/84 (2041/5/15), Waku-9
    Lakpa Sherpa, 25/12/86 (2043/9/10), Khumjung-9 [Phortse]


expid: NUPT11102
peakid: NUPT
year: 2011
route1: W Shoulder-W Ridge (to 6500m)
route2: N Face (to 6500m)
nation: Russia
leaders: Valeri Shamalo
sponsor: Russian Nuptse
bcdate: 2011-05-04
smtdate: 2011-05-10
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to route difficulty?
campsites: BC(04/05,5350m),C1(09/05,6100m),xxx.W Shoulder(10/05,6500m); N Face(18/05,6500m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Information about this team's climb is chiefly from Damian Benegas on Everest, who reported that they were seen on about 10 May climbing from their C1 at 6100m to the West Shoulder to about 6500m, then down the mountain's West Ridge to Gorak Shep, where they had their BC. Benegas said the two men seen were probably Gukov and Moldozhen.

  A week later the same two climbers were seen on the Nuptse's North Face. They were 200 meters from the bergschrund, which is at 6500m, and then rappelling down onto hard ice.

  They abandoned their attempt on Nuptse when one member fell sick. 

  They had no Sherpas with them, not even a BC cook, and no artificial oxygen.


expid: EVER11101
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Dawa Steven Sherpa
sponsor: Asian Trekking Eco-Everest Expedition 2011
countries: Brazil, India, Japan, Mexico, Nepal, Spain, Switzerland, USA
bcdate: 2011-04-11
smtdate: 2011-05-06
smttime: 1045
termdate: 2011-05-25
campsites: Smt(06-07,11,13,19-20/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  The Asian Trekking Eco Everest expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-4 climbers each). Asian Trekking provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Charles Wittmack (USA)
  Brian Block (USA)
  Joseph Brus (USA)
  Matthew Boelman (USA)

  Name:  The World Tri-Everest Expedition 
  Camps: BC(11/04,5350m),C1(23/04,6100m),C2(24/04,6500m),C3(04/05,7100m),
         C4(05/05,7900m),Smt(06,13/05)
  Left:  15/05/2011
  Hired: 4
  Term:  Success

  C1 by Block only
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col

  Fixed rope: 200m from C2 to C3.

  Wittmack spent nine months getting to Khumbu. He swam down to Thames River in England to the English Channel, took 12 hours to swim across the Channel, bicycled from Cherbourg to Kathmandu (he entered Nepal on 16 February) and trekked to Everest BC. He returned to Kathmandu by air from Lukla on 16 March and returned to Lukla on the 19th.

  Before setting up Everest BC on 11 April, Wittmack and other members climbed some trekking peaks: Wittmack scaled Chhukungtse via Chhukung Ri; Boelman, Brus and Wittmack climbed Island Peak; Brus and Wittmack did Lobuche East.

  The team placed their C3 lower than the usual site for this camp, but crevasses across the face restricted space available for pitching tents, and all possible sites above 7100m as high as 7300m were already occupied.

  Boelman, Block and Brus did not want to try to summit without Shepras helping them because no rope had been fixed that far, but the Sherpas were too tired from having carried all their loads to C4 to move so soon.

  Wittmack was "the only one comfortable" without the ropes. He left C4 on 6 May at 1:00 am and was on the top at 10:22 am. He descended all the way to BC and got there at 7:30 pm.

  Brus later made a successful bid for the summit: he went to C3 on 10 May, to C4 on the 11th, and left C4 for the top with Gyalu and Pasang at 9:00 pm. The arrived at the summit only at 7:30 am because they got stuck in the queue at the Hillary Step; Joe was not a fast climber. They returned to C4 at 6:30 pm.

  Block had a problem with his breathing when he was ascending the Hillary Step. He explained in an email, "it was as I was climbing through the Hillary Step that I felt my breathing was more challenged than it should be. Of course, not having been to that elevation prior (to this) -- as I had not previously visited the summit of Everest -- I was unsure as to whether what I was experiencing was unusual, or just par for the course. It was in face of the realization that Joe Brus had caught up to me, and I am usually much faster when we have climbed together prior (to this), that I realized that he seemed to be laboring much less when I realized that I was suffering from something more than a challenging climb (and later to find out a failing oxgygen mask as it was missing a key component that pressurizes the mask) -- which would later be found near C4 that evening. Apparently my "feeling" that the mask was smothering me and was more challenging to breathe through than not using it (which was my original intention and planning not to use oxygen) was actually correct. Best guesses that I was only getting about 40% of the oxygen provided by the tank/mask combo due to the missing piece. Which in turn I am guessing exasperated the onset of the pneumonia that I ahd apparently contracted prior (to this) but had not felt the effects of until approaching the summit."

  Nevertheless he pressed on. He had left C4 the night of the 12th with Pasang Rita. "Brus and Gyalu caught up to us close to the Hillary Step. I had stopped at the South Summit corniced area briefly to clear my eyes. As the sun was rising and things were heating up both outside and inside my goggles, it caused some gel sun-screen to ooze into my eyes and so I used some ice to clear the gunk and hence restore my vision. When Pasang and I continued on it, was not long before Joe (Brus) and Gyalu joined the ranks (of other climbers) behind us very near the Hillary Step."

  It was 13 May when the two Americans and two Sherpas summited together. After taking summit pictures, "we then started down, and the pneumonia I was now feeling the effects of seemed to continually compound." The four climbers stayed that night in C4 and descended to C2 together. Block was picked up by helicopter from C2 at 10:30 am on the 15th; Wittmack got aboard at BC, and they flew to Lukla, then to Kathmandu, where Block went to a hospital for treatment. The doctor who treated him "upon hearing the news that I had gone to the summit, and that the onset had actually started prior (earlier) based on the level of blockage caused by the pneumonia, said it was "impossible." I am just glad I was strong enough to get down, as that is the most important part."

  Boelman was the only member who did not get to the top. He got as high as 8500m (at the Balcony) on 12 May but the developed cerebral edema. Kami Tshering and Tshering Thundu helped him down to C4 that day, to C2 the next day, and to BC on the 14th.

  Oxygen was used by Boelman in C3 to his high point to and in C3. Brus was on it from C3 to the summit to C3. Wittmack used oxygen in and from C4 to the top to and in C4. Their four Sherpas used it in C4 to their high points to and in C4.

  Block was on oxygen climbing up from C4; when he felt he was being smothered by his mask, "I tried to take it off right away and again as we neared the summit, but Pasang, with whom I was climbing, thought I was confused or hypoxic each time I tried to remove it as I could markedly breathe more easily, kept "helping" or telling me to put it back on. As we climbed to the summit from the South Summit I removed it repeatedly to catch my breath. I removed it briefly at the summit and was again scolded to keep it on, that it was "your imagination that you can breathe better without it." I did eventually remove it completely above Camp 4. Then the missing piece was found near C4, and he spent that night in C4 on a medical flow (while he sat upright "struggling to breathe as the pneumonia had at this point severely obscured my breathing pathways. It was only a remainder bottle and I used it for two hours. The next day I used a low flow rate on the descent to C3, but ended up removing the mask completely above C3 and did not use it again."

  Sherpas:
    Gyalu Lama, 1977, Patle, Okhaldhunga, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Kami Tshering/Chhiring Sherpa, 30/8/86, Khumjung, Everest X1
    Pasang Rita (Pa Rita) Sherpa, 10/7/74, Yilajung, Khumbu, Everest X4
    Tshering Thundu Sherpa, 30/9/74 (14/5/2031), Khumjung, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1


  Rodrigo Raineri (Brazil)
  Carlos Canellas (Brazil)
  Carlos Santalena (Brazil)

  Name:  Projeto Everest 2011 
  Camps: BC(14/04,5400m),C1(24/04,6100m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(05/05,7200m),
         C4(06/05,8000m),Smt(07,20/05)
  Left:  24/05/2011
  Hired: 3
  Term:  Success

  The three-member Brazilian team set out from C4 for summit at different times on 6 May. Raineri at 9:30 pm, Santalena at 10 pm and Canellas at 11 pm. Raineri turned around from above the Balcony around 6 am on 7 May due to strong wind. Raineri was suppose to paraglide from top and due to strong wind conditions he thought that paragliding was not going to work out in that condition. Santalena and Canellas continued their climb in clear sky and strong wind with Pasang Rinji and Sera Gyalzen. They got to the top at 9:50 am on 7 May with two climbing Sherpas. They stayed on summit for about 20 minutes and descended to C4 at 2 pm. They spent the night there. Next day 8 May they descended to C2 and the following day 9 May to BC.

  Raineri's second summit push started from C4 at 9 pm on 19 May with his climbing Sherpa Kami Tshering. They arrived on summit at 9:55 am on 20 May in perfect weather condition. They stayed on summit for 20 minutes and descended to C4 at 3 pm, spent the night there. Next day 21 May they went down to C2 and on 22 May to BC.

  Carlos Santalena youngest Brazilian to summit Everest.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Rinji, 2/4/2031, Namche-9
    Shera Gyalzen, 9/6/2044, Khumjung-1
    Kami [Chhiring] Sherpa, 7/3/87 (23/11/2043), Khumjung-4


  William Burke (USA)
  David Liano (Mexico)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(07/05,5300m),C2(11/05,6400m),C3(12/05,7100m),C4(18/05,7950m),
         xxx(19,29/05,8350m)
  Left:  24/05/2011
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 8350m due slow climbing queue and lack of oxygen bottles

  High point below Balcony.

  The plan was to climb Everest from both sides and also Lhotse by American climber Burke and Mexican climber Liano. Liano had to leave ABC on the north side of Everest 20 April due to neck pain and headache. Liano returned to Kathmandu and had treatment at Norvic hospital. After recovery he went to the south side of Everest. [Burke remained in Tibet.]

  Liano and his climbing Sherpa Pemba left C4 at 11 pm on 18 May for the summit. At 1 am on 19 May high wind started picking up and also started snowfall. So they went back to C4. At 10 pm on 19 May Liano and Pemba started from C4. The climbers found that the traffic was heavy from halfway up to the Balcony due to a slow Indian team and the Nepali Guru. It was already 3 am of 20 May. Then they descended to give up the attempt on Everest and returned to C4 at 4 am. Snowfall remained until 9 am on that morning. Dawa Steven of Asian Trekking also was climbing with Liano. They went down to C2 and next day 21 May to BC.

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Tenzing Sherpa, 1/6/88 (22/09/2044), Khumjung-3


  Deke Williams (USA)

  Name:  Team Wilmanco Everest Expedition 
  Camps: BC(13/04,4115m),C1(24/04,5944m),C2(25/04,6553m),C3(05/05,7315m),
         xxx(05/05,7315m)
  Left:  16/05/2011
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 7315m due to chest infection

  Williams on his summit push left BC on 3 May with Pemba to C2. On 5 May went to C3 and slept there. He had chest infection, then went down to C2 on 6 May. Next day to BC.

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Tenjing, 9/6/2044, Khumjung-3


  Christopher Shumate (USA)

  Name:  Within the Limit Everest Expedition
  Camps: BC(13/04,5534m),C1(24/04,5944m),C2(25/04,6553m),C3(05/05,7777m),
         C4(10/05,8000m),Smt(11/05)
  Left:  16/05/2011
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success

  Shumate and his climbing Sherpa Dawa Chhiri left C4 at 10:45 am on 10 May along with clients and guides of Asian Trekking. Shumate reached summit at 9:15 am on 11 May with HB Sherpa and Apa Sherpa. Shumate stayed on summit for 15 minutes, then descended to C4 at 1:30 pm, spent the night there. Next day 12 May went down to C2 and the following day 13 May to BC. Summit day weather was windy, clear day, in general good weather.

  Sherpa:
    Dawa Chhiri, 19/11/66 (4/8/2023), Namche-7, Everest X10, Cho Oyu X3


  Bruno Gremion (Switzerland)

  Name:  None
  Camps: BC(13/04,5330m),C2(19/04,6480m),C3(01/05,7100m),C4(10/05,7900m),Smt(11/05)
  Left:  16/05/2011
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success

  Gremion and Phurba along with other climbers and Sherpas started from C4 at 22:45 hours on 10 May. Gremion wanted to summit without supplementary oxygen, but he had to use it from South Summit. The Gremion team reached summit at 09:15 hours on 11 May. Other climbers who reached the summit were Apa, Arita, Shumate with the Sherpa Ang Dawa and the two clients of Adventure Consultants with three Sherpas. Gremion stayed on summit for 30 minutes and descended to C4 where they arrived at 18:45 hours. They spent the night at C4. Next day 12 May went down to BC. The weather on summit day was good, but windy from South Summit. 

  During acclimatization Gremion touched South Col from C3 on 2 May. 

  Sherpa:
    Phurba Sherpa, 2015, Namche-4, Phurte, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X1


  Joan Clofent Torellas (Spain)

  Name:  None
  Camps: BC(15/04)
  Left:  17/04/11
  Hired: 0 
  Term:  Unsuccessful (stomach illness)


  Sunita Singh Choken (India)

  Name:  None
  Camps: BC(14/04,5400m),C1(19/04,6000m),C2(25/04,6630m),C3(11/05,7100m),
         C4(19/05,7900m),Smt(20/05)
  Left:  25/05/11
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success

  Choken reached the summit on May 20 at 8:10 am after starting at 8:30 pm on May 19. The weather at the summit was good, so she spent around 30 minutes there. There were about 9-10 people ahaed of her on the summit. She started her descend to C2, where she spent the night. On May 21, she reached base camp from C2 at 11 am. 

  First summit push was on May 12 but came back to C2 after reaching 7400m. She came back to base camp on May 13. For her next attempt, she left the base camp on May 16, and slept at C2 on May 16 and 17, C3 on May 18 and then to C4 on May 19.

  Sherpas:
    Nima Kancha Sherpa, Thami, 20/4/77 (8/1/2034) [biodata from AT]
    Sonam Tashi Sherpa, Khumjung, 3/12/71 [biodata from AT]
      (accompanied this team)


  Vikas Kaushik (India)
  Sushma Kaushik (India)

  Name:  None
  Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(24/04,6000m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(12/05,7100m),
         C4(19/05,8000m),Smt(20/05)
  Left:  25/05/11
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success

  They reached the summit at 10:25 am. They had started at 8:30 am from C4 (May 18). The weather at the peak was very good (spent 30 minutes) and about 15 people had summited before them. They reached C4 at around 6 pm and slept there. On May 19, they reached C2 from C4 (8 am-4 pm), where they spent the night. The next day they reached base camp at around 12 in the afternoon. They spent the night at base camp.

  They made their first attempt to the summit from C2, but had to return where they started from 7500m (yellow band) due to bad weather.

  Youngest Indian couple to summit Everest.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa, 18/1/91, Khumjung
    Tenzing Dorje Sherpa, 19/11/70, Phortse


  Pawan Grewal (India)

  Name:  None
  Camps: BC(15/04,5350m),C1(26/04,6000m),C2(27/04,6400m),C3(12/05,7100m),
         C4(19/05,7900m),Smt(20/05)
  Left:  23/05/11
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success

  Grewal and Pasang Temba left C4 for the summit at 8:30 pm on 19 May and got to the top at 10:00 [11:00 as per Asian Trekking] am on the 20th. Grewal was exhausted by the time they returned to C4 that afternoon. They descended to C1 on the 21st and to BC on the 22nd.

  Grewal used oxygen in C3 to the summit and back to C3. His Sherpa used it in C4 to the top down to and in C4.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Temba, 27/1/70, Thami (not 6/8/86 from Khumjung)

  Narinder Singh (India)

  Name:  None
  Camps: BC(15/04,5200m),C1(24/04,6000m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(12/05,7100m),
         C4(19/05,8000m),Smt(20/05)
  Left:  23/05/11
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success

  He reached the summit at 10:30 am (May 20) from C4 after starting at 8:30 pm on May 19. On their way up, their march was halted for about two hours at the Balcony (8400m) due to a long queue caused by a man who had been meditating on the summit for two hours for world peace (the man was a Nepali). There were about 30-40 people ahead of him trying to make it to the summit. He spent about an hour at the summit without oxygen. Weather was clear. 

  He headed down from C4 on May 21 and reached C2 from C4 and spent the night there. Then descended to base camp the next day on May 22 and spent the night at the base camp.

  First push: May 13 from C2, but returned from Yellow Band (7500m) to C2 because of unfavourable weather conditions.

  Sherpa:
    Sonam Tshering Sherpa, Khumjung, 17/2/88 (11/5/2044) [biodata from AT]


  Premlata Agrawal (India)

  Name:  None
  Camps: 
  Left:  
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success

  Sherpas:
    Tshering Phinjo Sherpa, Khumjung, 29/4/73 (17/1/2030) [biodata from AT]
    Kalden Sherpa, Khumjung [no biodata available from AT]


  Also on Eco-Everest permit (from Ang Chirring, Himalayan Sherpa Treks)

  Juan Glenn Uribe (Mexico)
  Richard Eric Salter Bennet (Mexico)
  Eduardo Manuel Martinez Palomera Angel (Mexico)

  Name:  None
  Camps: BC(13/04,5380m),C1(21/04,6100m),C2(28/04,6500m),C3(17/05,7000m),
         C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(20/05)
  Left:  23/5/11 & 26/5/11
  Hired: 4
  Term:  Success

  Before going to Everest BC, the team went to Lobuche East for an acclimatization climb. The three members with Ngima Thenduk and Jyamchang Bhote reached its summit on 10 May.

  Bennett, Martinez, Uribe, Gyamjo Sherpa, Jyamchang Bhote and Nima Thenduk Sherpa made their summit push from C4 at 9:00 pm on the 19th, and the six climbers were on the summit at 7:00 am on 20 May. They were back in C4 at 3:00 pm. descended to C2 on the 21st and to BC on the 22nd.

  Oxygen was used by the members from C3 to top to and in C3. Their Sherpas used it in C4 to top to and in C4.

  The members left BC on 23 May were flown from Gorak Shep to Kathmandu on the 24th. The Sherpas left BC on the 26th and flew from Lukla on the 29th.

  Sherpas:
    Gyamjo Sherpa, 3/8/86, Lelep-9, Taplejung, no 8000ers
    Nima Thenduk Sherpa, 31/8/73, Mathilow, Walung
    Jyamchang Bhote, Hungung, Hatiya, Makalu-Barun


  Ken Noguchi (Japan)
  Mingma Gyalje Sherpa (Nepal)

  Mingma Gyalje summited Everest on 19 May using a bottle of oxygen.

  Mingma Gyalje: "We started 18 May from C3, but Ken Noguchi and Nima Gyalzen Sherpa returned back from Juniper Spur on same day. Another Sherpa Tamting Sherpa returned back from South Col on 19 and I alone went to the summit for taking videos.

  I spent almost 2 hours on the summit taking videos and pictures. At the end I met Tibetan Sherpas on the summit. They came there fixing lines from Tibet."


expid: EVER11102
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Hari Bahadur Basnet
sponsor: Asian Trekking International Everest Expedition 2011
countries: Austria, Canada, Ireland, Mexico, Russia, Sweden, Switzerland, USA
bcdate: 2011-05-12
smtdate: 2011-05-20
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2011-05-31
campsites: Smt(20-21,26/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  The Asian Trekking International Everest expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Asian Trekking provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high-altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  William Burke (USA)
  David Liano (Mexico)

  Name:  None   
  Camps: BC(12/04,5304m),ABC(19/04,6187m),C1(17/05,6706m),C2(18/05,7772m),
         C3(19/05,8382m),xxx(20/05,8687m)
  Left:  23/05/11
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 8687m due to inadequate supply of oxygen to continue

  Burke and Liano planned to climb Everest from both sides and also to climb Lhotse in Spring 2011. Liano suffered from headache and neck pain at ABC on 20 April. He returned to Kathmandu and had treatment at Norvic. He went to climb Everest on the south side. Burke continued his attempt on the north side of Everest. 

  Burke and his climbing Sherpa left C3 at 8:30 pm NST on 19 May for the summit. They reached the First Step (28,500 ft) at 1 am of 20 May. There was not enough oxygen to continue, so they decided to turn around and returned C3 where they reached at 3:30 am. They spent the night there. Next day 21 May they went down to ABC. Burke did not go to south side of Everest.

  Sherpa:
    Phura Gyalzen, 16/04/1970 (2027), Namche-9
    Mingma (Dorje) (also climbed with Burke on summit day)


  William Holland (USA)

  Name:  Long Way to the Top Everest Expedition   
  Camps: BC(15/04,5750m),ABC(20/04,6400m),C1(25/04,7000m),C2(03/05,7700m),
         C3(11/05,8300m),Smt(26/05)
  Left:  29/05/11
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Success

  BC at CBC/IC on 19 April at 5800m.

  Holland started his summit push from ABC to C2 on 24 May. He arrived C3 on 25 May. He left C3 at 11:45 pm (NST) of 25 May and reached summit at 7:45 am of 26 May. Holland stayed on summit for about 45 minutes without oxygen. He descended to C3 between 2-3 pm, very tired. He spent the night at C3. Next day 27 May went down to C2 and on 28 May to ABC and continued to ABC. On summit there were Canadians and members of Adventure Peaks and some Sherpas. On summit he asked one of the Sherpas to take his photo. Sherpa asked Holland 200 dollars for taking the snap shot. It was "disgusting" attitude of the Sherpa.

  (Holland was deported from Nepal in 2008 for having a Tibetan flag on Everest).


  Douglas Scarborough (USA)

  Name:  None   
  Camps: BC(12/04,5303m),ABC(19/04,6188m),C1(17/05,6706m),C2(18/05,7772m),
         C3(19/05,8382m),xxx(20/05,8565m)
  Left:  23/05/11
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 8565m due to inadequate supply of bottled oxygen

  Scarborough wrote in his email that they [he] turned around at 28,100 ft, 5 hours after setting off from C3. [Ngima Dorje continued onto the summit with Elmezov.]

  Sherpa:
    Ngima Dorje Sherpa, 31/8/84 (15/5/2041), Namche-6
    Phura Nuru (also climbed with Scarborough on summit day)


  Ivan Schmid (Switzerland)

  Name:  Adventure Alternative 2011 to Everest   
  Camps: BC(18/04,5400m),ABC(24/04,6300m),C1(28/04,7000m),C2(19/05,7600m),
         C3(20/05,8300m),Smt(21/05)
  Left:  24/05/11
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success

  BC at CBC/IC on 23 April at 5800m.

  Schmid and Pemba Nuru started their summit bid at 11:20 pm on 20 May from C3. Pemba Nuru had to turn around from 8750m due to a problem in the oxygen regulator. Schmid continued his climb and got to the top at 6:20 am on 21 May. He spent about an hour on the top, then descended to C3 at 11 am and spent the night there. Next day on 22 May went down all the way to ABC. The summit day weather was very good. There were about 10 climbers ahead of Schmid. He also saw about 10-15 climbers coming up from south side.

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Nuru Sherpa, 17/1/1977, Thamiteng, Khumbu, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X6


  Leonardo Fernandez (Mexico)

  Name:  None   
  Camps: BC(18/04,5400m),ABC(24/04,6400m),C1(28/04,7000m),C2(19/05,7600m),
         C3(20/05,8300m),Smt(21/05)
  Left:  26/05/11
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Success

  CBC/IC on 23 April at 5800m.

  Fernandez started from C3 at 9:30 pm NST on 20 May. He reached the top at 9 am on 21 May. Fernandez stayed on summit for 45 minutes and descended to C3, where he arrived at 1 pm. He spent the night there. Next day 22 May went down to C1 and on 23 May to ABC. Ahead of Fernandez there were 3 climbers; later about 10-12 other climbers came up. The summit day weather was very good.

  Fernandez frostbite (right-hand ring and little fingers); he took off glove to take pictures and video on the summit; he realized frostbite at C3 on descent.


  Martin Byrne (Ireland)

  Name:  Irishman to Everest   
  Camps: BC(17/04,5200m),ABC(22/04,6400m),C1(25/04,7100m),C2(19/05,7900m),
         C3(20/05,8300m),Smt(26/05)
  Left:  30/05/11
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success

  Before attempting Everest, Byrne and his two Sherpas climbed a 3500m peak near the village of Nyalam on their way to BC.

  Byrne's bid for the summit started from ABC by going up to C1 on 23 May, climbing to C2 on the 24th and to C3 on the 25th. He and his Sherpas had earlier occupied all these camps, but the weather was unfavourable for a summit bid until now.

  Byrne and one Sherpa, Lhakpa, left C3 for the top at 10:00 pm (NST) on 25 May. They summited at 11:30 am of the 26th and returned to C3 at 6:00 pm that evening. They descended all the way to ABC on the 27th and were in BC on the 28th waiting for the yaks to bring down their baggage.

  Both Byrne and Lhakpa used oxygen on their summit push from 7400m to the top to C1.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Sherpa, 24/12/73, Rawadole-1, Okhaldhunga
    Ngima Sherpa, 18/3/80 (5/12/2036), Bishinga-8, Okhaldhunga


  Niklas Hallstrom (Sweden)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(07/05,5200m),ABC(09/05,6400m),C1(10/05,7050m),C2(19/05,7600m),
         C3(20/05,8100m),xxx(20/05,8300m)
  Left:  26/05/11
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 8300m due to leg thrombosis and vomiting

  The first attempt for the summit was on May 20, but Hallstrom had to abandon the climb due to leg thrombosis from which he suffered on May 19. On May 20, he started his descent and reached C2 on the same day. On May 21, he reached the base camp.

  Before attempting Everest, he had tried Xixabangma, but had to abandon the climb due to an avalanche on May 12.

  Sherpa:
    Fur Tenji, Jubing-5, 1/5/68


  Abdul Elmezov (Russia)

  Name:  Russian on Everest 
  Camps: BC(12/04,6300m),ABC(21/04,6400m),C1(29/04,7000m),C2(18/05,7750m),
         C3(19/05,8300m),Smt(20/05)
  Left:  25/05/11
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success

  Elmezov reached the summit at 6 am (NST) on May 20, after starting from C3 at 8 pm on May 19. The weather at the summit was very good, so he spent 30 minutes in the summit. Reached C3 from the summit at 11 pm on May 20 and then to C2 on the same day at 3 pm. He spent the night at C2. On May 21, started to descend to ABC in the morning and reached ABC at 1 pm. From there he reached the base camp on May 23 after spending 2 days at the ABC.

  Sherpa:
    Nima Dorje Sherpa, Namche-5, Thamo, Everest X3, 2007 (north side), 
      2010 (north side), 2011 (north side)


  Clemens Strauss (Austria)
  Joeseph Uitz (Austria)

  Name:  The Jomolungma-Project-Datti Sports to Everest
  Camps: BC(19/04,5150m),ABC(04/05,6400m),C1(11/05,7660m),C2(24/05,7700m),
         xxx(25/05,8000m)
  Left:  31/05/11
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned at 8000m due to storm and too slow

  BC at CBC/IC on 3 May at 5780m.

  Strauss and Uitz set off from C2 at 11 am for C3. They arrived at 7850m around 1:30 pm. They thought they were too slow to reach C3 and turned around to C2 where they arrived at around at 2:30 pm. On 25 May they started to climb up at 8:30 am. When they arrived at 8000m at about 1:30 pm there started a storm and snowfall. They realized that they could not reach C3 in a reasonable time in that weather condition and turned around to C2 where they arrived at around 3 pm and spent the night there. They waited for the storm to subside until 9 am next day. But it did not do so. So they decided to give up their attempt for summit and descended to ABC.


  Zoltan Benedek (Austria)
  Ildiko Benedek (Austria)

  Name:  Two Austrians to Everest
  Camps: BC(23/04,5160m),ABC(28/04,6400m),C1(30/04,7000m),C2(20/05,7700m),
         xxx(25/05,8650m)
  Left:  28/05/11
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned at 8650m due to cold feet, frostbite

  The team tried for a summit push on 21 May. They left C2 at 3 am. The weather was good, however, when Ildiko Benedek reached 8050m, she was too tired to carry on. They turned back at around 7 am and descended to C2 where they arrived at around noon. The next day they carried on to ABC. Ildiko decided to remain at ABC and not to join her husband for a second summit attempt, as he was too exhausted.

  Zoltan Benedek left C2 at 3 am on 25 May. He was completely on his own and had to break trail as there was new snow. He felt good and strong, however, when he reached 8650m he noticed that his feet and hands were too cold. He was just before the Second Step when he decided to turn back due to his cold toes. It was about 3 pm. He descended to C2, where he arrived at 6:30 pm. When he too his shoes off, he noticed that he had frostbite on three toes at the right foot. He stayed the night there and on 26 May he descended to ABC.

  Zoltan Benedek suffered frostbite on right foot.


  Helmut Ortner (Austria)

  Name:  None
  Camps: BC(14/05,5200m),ABC(18/05,6400m),C2(20/05,7700m),Smt(21/05)
  Left:  26/05/11
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Success

  Ortner's summit push started from ABC on 20 May and he arrived C2 directly. Next day 21 May he left C2 at 3 am and reached the top at 3 pm. He stayed on summit for about 30 minutes, then descended to C3 where he reached at 6 pm, and slept in a Sherpa tent. Next day 22 May he left C3 at 6 am and arrived ABC at 4 pm. On 23 May he came down to CBC. The summit day weather was sunny and warm but the night was very windy and very cold.

  Also summited Xixabangma alone on 6 May.


  Esteban Barahona (Canada)
  Philip Peter Bota (Canada)
  Manuel Pizarro (Canada)

  Name:  Climb for Heart & Stroke Everest Expedition 
  Camps: BC(06/05,5334m),ABC(10/05,6096m),C1(23/05,7000m),C2(24/05,7700m),
         C3(25/05,8300m),Smt(26/05)
  Left:  29/05/2011
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success

  Bota, Pasang Namgyal and Phurba Temba Sherpa started their summit push from C3 at 9 pm NST on 26 May. They arrived at the top at 7:38 and stayed on summit about 20 minutes, then descended to C3 at 11:30 am and to ABC at 6 pm. Next day 27 May went down to CBC. The summit day weather was perfect clear sky, sunny, no wind.

  Barahona got frostbite at around 7400m during acclimatization on 20 May (index finger, middle finger purple color).

  Manuel Pizarro suffered heart problems while acclimatizing in the Khumbu and did not accompany the team to Tibet.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Namgyal Sherpa
    Phurba Temba Sherpa
    Nima Kancha (also climbed with Barahona)


  Antoine Cina (Switzerland)

  Name:  
  Camps: BC(11/05,5050m),ABC(6400m),C1(7000m)
  Left:  
  Hired: 
  Term:  Unsuccessful

  Intention was a paraglide from the summit of Everest.

  Turned around at 7600m due to problems with eye sight.


expid: EVER11103
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Wangchen Sonam
sponsor: Holy Mountain Adventure 2011 Everest Expedition
countries: Japan
smtdate: 2011-05-19
smttime: 0215
campsites: BC,ABC(6400m),C1(7000m),C2(7700m),C3(8300m),Smt(19-20/05)
agency: Holy Mountain Adventure
routememo:
  Presume the rope team summited the prior day (19 May) to main team.

  Summit time reported at 4:30 am CST (2:15 am NST) (summit photo show night sky).


expid: GYAJ10302
peakid: GYAJ
year: 2010
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Ernst Marti
sponsor: Marti Ratna Chuli Expedition
approach: Besisahar->Koto->Phu->BC
bcdate: 2010-11-03
smtdate: 2010-11-08
termdate: 2010-11-13
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to rotten rock on very narrow ridge
campsites: BC(03/11,4500m),C1(06/11,5540m),xxx(08/11,6000m)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  High point 8 Nov (ca 6000m) on the long ridge leading towards Phugaon.
   
  The high camp is reached over slopes with no difficulties. Then the ridge becomes icy and narrow. We were forced to stop at a narrow ridge consisting of very rotten rock where we didn’t want to take such a big risk of a long fall with all that rubbish. We planned to make one more camp, but this passage was too dangerous.

  We went down to BC and looked for another possibility on the NW glacier and put a high camp at 5400m at 10 Nov. We tried to find a route through the many huge crevasses, but were running out of time.

  We left BC at 13 Nov.

  I had a description of the route from Paulo Grobel where nothing was mentioned about a risky ridge, but only about not too difficult passages. Perhaps something has changed.

  Hired:
    Saila Tamang
    Tenzing Sherpa


expid: CHOY11115
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: Ecuador
leaders: Santiago Quintero
sponsor: Ecuador Spain Todo Los Alto 14 X 8000 to Cho Oyu
countries: Spain
bcdate: 2011-04-19
smtdate: 2011-05-05
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2011-05-08
campsites: BC(19/04,4800m),ABC(20/04,5700m),C1(28/04,6400m),C2(29/04,7200m),C3(04/05,7450m),Smt(05/05)
accidents: Rodriguez's altitude problem; Quintero's fall
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Quintero was the only member to climb above C2. Echeverri (ABC manager) stayed in ABC throughout the climb. Rodriguez went with Quintero on 29 April towards C2, but he got to only 6800m, then turned back to ABC because he was not acclimatized properly.

  Quintero continued with the team's only Sherpa, Pasang Tshiring, to pitch C2 at 7200m that day and to C3 on 4 May. The early morning of the 5th was very windy, and they were the first persons to start for the summit when they left C3 at 5:00 am.

  Pasang Tshiring turned back after ascending to 8100m, but Quintero went on and went to the very highest point at noon. He went to the plateau's edge, where he found a standing snow bar and many prayer flags; he had a glimpse of Everest through the cloud cover.

  In his descent to C3, he used new ropes fixed by a French team led by Paulo Grobel. At about 7600m, two pitons holding the rope in place pulled out, and he fell 1.5 meters. He was not injured, but stuffing has come out of his down pants from two holes torn in his fall. He returned to C3 at 4:30-5:00 pm to spend the night and was back in ABC on the 6th.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Tshering Sherpa, 10/4/63, Beding, Cho Oyu X5, Everest X3

  Note: On his web site, Quintero says he summited with Tshiring Sherpa. Other climbers confirm that he was accompanied by a Sherpa.


expid: EVER11153
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Chris Szymiec, Zac Poulton
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Everest Expedition 2011
countries: Canada, Mauritius
bcdate: 2011-04-15
smtdate: 2011-05-26
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2011-05-31
campsites: BC(15/04,5170m),ABC(23/04,6400m),C1(28/04,7000m),C2(24/05,7800m),C3(25/05,8300m),Smt(26/05)
achievment: 1st Mauritian summiter
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  This big expedition made a single push for the top. The summit party left C3 on 25 May in four groups totaling 11 members and nine Sherpas between 9:00 pm and 10:30 pm (NST). The members were Arumugum, Atkinson, Green, Healey, Poulton, Robertson, Salam, Stewart, Szymiec, Thackwray and Walsh. The Sherpas with them were: Ang Phurba, Dawa Dorje, Dorje Khatri, Kul Bahadur Magar, Mingma Drukpa, Mingma Gyabu, Nurbu Bhote, Pasang Wangchu and Sonam Dorje.

  One of the summit party did not get all the way to the top. Salam turned around at 8500m with Mingma Drukpa, 200 meters above C3, because he was too cold. He retreated to C2 that day and to ABC on the 27th.

  All others reached the summit on 26 May between 6:30 am (Arumugum, Stewart and Szymiec with two Sherpas, Dorje Khatri and Ang Phurba), and 9:45 am (Atkinson, Healey, Poulton and three Sherpas, Sonam Dorje, Nurbu Bhote Lama and Mingma Gyabu), in weather the leader described as "gorgeous."

  Walsh went back to C3 at 4:00 pm, while Healey and Poulton with two Sherpas were in C3 an hour later. Green got pulmonary edema, and Szymiec went down with him to C1, where they arrived at 2:00 am, and to ABC at 3:00 am on the 27th. The remaining summiters stopped in C2 at 7:00 pm of the 26th. All were in ABC on the 27th.

  Other non-summiting members:

  Carter reached C3 on the 25th with the summit party, but he was tired and too slow. He went back to C2 on summit party, the 26th.

  Geluk and Knighton climbed to 7400m with the team enroute to C2 on 24 May, ran out of steam, turned around and descended to ABC.

  Manassie turned around at 8000m due to kidney failure and was evacuated to Kathmandu according to Poulton and Syzmiec.

  Besides Green's edema, the only other health problem was Thackwray's frostbite in seven fingers which he got on his way to the summit. He descended to C2 on the 26th, to ABC on the 27th, to BC on the 28th, and was back in Kathmandu on the 29th.

  Oxygen was used by the Sherpas from C2 to the summit to C2. Member's use was as follows: Atkinson, Geluk, Healey, Knighton, Manassie, Salam, Szymiec and Stewart from C1 to their high points to C2, except for Geluk and Knighton, plus Green, who used it down to C1.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Phurba, 25/11/85, Makalu, Sankhuwasabha
    Dawa Dorje, 22/8/83, Pangboche, Everest X2
    Dorje Khatri, 19/12/68, Lelep, Taplejung, Everest X5
    Kul Bahadur Magar, 31/7/70, Taluwa-9, Okhaldhunga, Everest X2
    Mingma Gyabu, 16/5/89, Lelep-7, Taplejung, Everest X1
    Mingma Dupka, 29/6/80, Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1
    Nurbu Bhote Lama, 29/5/81, Hatiya-1, Makalu, Everest X3
    Pasang Wangchu, Taplejung, Everest X1 [??]
    Sonam Dorje, 18/1/86, Pangboche, Everest X3


expid: EVER11152
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Mike Roberts
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Everest Expedition 2011
countries: Australia, Canada, Ireland, Nepal , Switzerland, UK, USA
bcdate: 2011-04-09
smtdate: 2011-05-05
smttime: 0400
termdate: 2011-05-14
campsites: BC(09/04,5350m),C1(17/04,6100m),C2(19/04,6500m),C3(29/04,7250m),C4(10/05,7900m),Smt(05,11,13,19/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  The nine-member expedition put all of its members on the summit on three different days.

  Actually, the first summiter from this expedition was not a member, but one of their Sherpas, Kami Rita, who went to the top on 5 May helping a group from Brice's Himex team and the IMG expedition led by Vernonage to fix the last ropes up the mountain. They left C2 at 00:20 that night, left C4 at 6:38 am and worked their way up to the summit at 4:00 pm and returned to C4 that evening.

  The first of the team's parties was composed of Staples and his client, Hameister, with Ang Gelu, Tendi and Lhakpa Dorje. They set out from C4 at 10:45 am on the 10th and summited at 8:40 am on 11 May. They returned to C4 at 12:00 noon.

  The second group followed two days later, Dillier Degelo, Jude, Kao and Chuldim Dorje, plus Dawa Jangbu, Pemba Chhoti, Temba, Lhakpa Bhote, Sonam Tshering and Namgyal. The ten climbers left C4 early because the day's weather forecast incorrectly predicted very strong winds. They left C4 for the top at 8:40 pm on the 12th and got to the top at 4:00 am on the 13th. They were back in C4 so early (at 9:00 am) that they continued their descent to C2, where they arrived at 4:30 pm.

  The third party summited six days later: Geoghegan, Roberts, Uhlir, Sange Dorje, Pemba Rinji, Lhakpa, Pasang Bhote [and Kami Rita] left C4 at on the 18th at 10:00 pm and arrived at the summit at 7:25 am (members Geoghegan and Roberts) and 7:45 am (Uhlir) on 19 May. They went back to C4 at 1:00 and 2:00 pm.

  All members used oxygen in C3 to the summit to and in C3. The Sherpas used it in C4 to the top to and in C4.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Gelu Sherpa, 23/4/1986 (15/1/2043), Phedi-9, Khotang
    Chuldim Dorje (Ang Dorje) Sherpa, 23/11/64, Pangboche, Everest X14, Cho Oyu X3
       (listed by Adventure Consultants as a member)
    Dawa (Da) Jangbu Sherpa, 22/4/73, Pangboche, Everest X8, Cho Oyu X1
    Kami Rita Sherpa, Thami, 22/10/77 (6/7/2034), Everest X8
    Lhakpa Bhote, 15/11/83, Hatiya-2, Makalu, Everest 2010 (S Col only)
    Lhakpa Sherpa, 20/6/75 (6/3/2032), Sotang-6, Solu, Cho Oyu 24/5/10
    Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa, 16/11/61, Sanam, Gudel, Solu, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X3, 
      Makalu X3, Lhotse X1, Kangch X1
    Namgyal Sherpa, 25/9/71, Bung-9, Solu
    Pasang Bhote, 19/5/86, Chepuwa-4, Makalu-Barun, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2
    Pemba Chhote/Chhoti Sherpa, Thami, no 8000ers
    [Pemba?] Rinji Sherpa, 26/6/75, Gorakhani-6 Solu
    Sange Dorje Sherpa, 14/4/78, Khumjung, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X2
    Sonam Tshering (Ang Sona) Sherpa, 1/10/86, Khunde, Everest X2
    Temba Sherpa, 24/6/68, Khumjung, Everest X5
    Tendi Sherpa, 13/10/68, Sanam, Gudel, Solu, Everest X2, Kangch X1


expid: EVER11143
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiroyuki Kuraoka
sponsor: Mountain Experience Everest Expedition 2011
countries: Indonesia
bcdate: 2011-04-12
smtdate: 2011-05-20
smttime: 0512
termdate: 2011-05-24
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),C1(30/04,6100m),C2(01/05,6400m),C3(03/05,7200m),C4(19/05,7900m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  After having established BC on 12 May, the team went to nearby Lobuche East for an acclimatization climb. In two groups, three members and two Sherpas summited on 17 May and four more members and two other Sherpas went to the top on the 22nd.

  Then back to Everest and four high camps above it. Funahashi left the team on 28 April, Hiroyuki told her she could not climb without her Japanese speaking Sherpa guide, whom she had fired, so she left.

  C4 was established on 19 May, and that night, at 10:30 pm, the summit party set out from C4 for the top. They were eight members and seven Sherpas: Fesa, Frans, Ginting, Hiraoka, Kuraoka, Nabeshima, Sihombing and Toji, with Sherpas Ang Tshering, Dawa Temba, Dawa Tenjing, Gyalzen Dorji, Pasang Dawa, Pemba Gyalzen and Pemba Nuru.

  At the bottom of the Hillary Step (8800m), Nabeshima was moving too slowly because he was not getting oxygen through the ice that had frozen on his mast, so at 11:30 am he and Dawa Temba retreated to C4, where they arrived at about 3:00 pm.

  Ang Tshering also did not summit. He got a chest infestion, retreated and went to Khunde Hospital for treatment.

  All the other members and Sherpas were on the summit on the 20th. The first arrivals were Kuraoka, Sihombing and Pemba Nuru at 5:12 am and they descended all the way to BC at 6:10 pm. The last were Hiraoka, Toji and Pasang Dawa at 12:00 noon, and they stopped at C4 at 3:00 pm.

  Hiraoka, Nabeshima and Toji were too tired to descend farther than C2 on the 21st; five Sherpas (Gyalzen Dorje, Pasang Dawa, Dawa Tenjing also stayed that night in C2 because they were packing up camp. Everyone was in BC on the 22nd.

  The members used oxygen from C3 to their high points to C2. Their Sherpas used it in their summit bid from C2 (they did not sleep in C3) to C4 to their high points to and in C4.

  Three Sherpas had health problems. Dawa Tenjing and Pemba Gyalzen had very sore legs. As already noted, Ang Tshering got a chest infection. 

  Sherpas:
    Ang Tshering/Ang Chhiring, 1952, Phortse, Everest X3
    Dawa Temba, 1959, Thamo
    Dawa Tenjing, 1981, Khumjung
    Gyalzen Dorje, 17/2/88 (5/11/2044), Phortse
    Pasang Dawa, 1981, Khumjung
    Pemba Gyalzen, 1975, Phortse
    Pemba Nuru, 27/11/80, Khumjung, Everest X2


expid: EVER11141
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Scott Woolums
sponsor: Mountain Trip Everest 2011
countries: Canada, Poland, UK
bcdate: 2011-04-14
smtdate: 2011-05-20
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2011-05-22
campsites: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(21/04,6000m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3(17/05,7400m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  The expedition made an unsuccessful bid for the summit when they left C4 at 9:30 pm on 18 May, but stopped at the ice dome (8150m) at 10:30 pm because of strong wind. They were back in C4 at 11:30 pm.

  Their second effort on the following day was successful. The summiters were all eight members, Allen, Beidleman, Davenport, Gildor, Hunter, Mellon, Szpot and Woolums, plus 12 Sherpas: Da Ongchu, Tarke, Pasang Gombu, Mindu Chhiri, Pasang Tendi, Temba, Da Phinju, Da Kusang, Karma Gyalzen, Da Pasang, Samden and Kazi.

  The group left C4 at 10:00 pm on the 19th. Four climbers arrived at the top at 8:30 am on 20 May, while all the others were on the summit at 9:50 am. The entire group returned to C4 between 11:45 am and noon. All were down on BC on the 21st.

  There were 15 Sherpas with the expeditions who went above BC. In the first summit attempt, 13 set out for the top on 18 May: the 12 who did summit on the 20th, and one other, Sonam Chhiring, who was in the earlier unsuccessful summit party, turned back with them, and did not try again.

  All members used oxygen in C3 to their high points to and in C4 on both ways. Their Sherpas used it in C4 to their high points to and in C4.

  Sherpas:
    Da Kusang Sherpa, 28/4/86, Kurima, Lokhim, Solu, Everest 23/5/10
    Da Ongchu Sherpa, 16/4/79, Kurima, Lokhim, Solu, Everest X3
    Da Pasang Sherpa, 2/5/79, Sotang-6, Solu
    Da Phinju Sherpa, Lokhim-9, Solu
    Kaji Sherpa, 12/2/87, Sikli, Jubing-5, Everest X1
    Karma Gyalzen Sherpa, 31/7/88, Sotang-6, Solu, Everest 23/5/10
    Mindu Chhiri Sherpa, 29/8/71, Kurima, Lokhim, Solu, Everest X2
    Pasang Gombu Sherpa, 28/12/69, Sotang, Solu, Everest X3
    Pasang Tendi Sherpa, 29/9/88, Jubing, Solu, Everest 23/5/10
    Samden Sherpa, 29/1/88, Bakachol-9, Khotang
    Sonam Chhiring Sherpa, 30/8/94, Kurima, Lokhim, Solu, Everest 23/5/10
    Tarke Sherpa, 1967, Rakshi Kharka, Lokhim-4, Solu, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X5, 
      Manaslu X1
    Temba Sherpa, 4/9/77, Sotang-6, Solu, Everest X3


expid: EVER11140
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Everest Expedition 2011
countries: Australia, China, Japan, Netherlands, Norway, UK, USA
bcdate: 2011-04-15
smtdate: 2011-05-05
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2011-05-22
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East
campsites: BC(15,19/04,5200m),C1(28/04,6100m),C2(19/04,6400m),C3(02/05,7300m),C4(19/05,7900m),Smt(05,20/05)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  The expedition sent two teams to the top, but the first team summited only because they were fixing the ropes to the summit.

  The first team consisted of Ballinger accompanying Phurba Tashi, Dorje Sonam Gyalzen, Rita Dorje, Tshering Tashi and Tashi Tshering. They left C2 at 00:20 on 5 May and started up from C4 at the South Col at 6:38 am fixing rope as they slowly made their way to the summit, where they finally arrived together at 4:00 pm. The foreign member was with them at the Sherpas' request for guidance on how to do the job.

  The main Everest summit party left C4 at 12:25 pm on 19 May and reached the summit on 20 May as follows:

  Member                   Sherpa with this member         Summit time

  Adrian Ballinger              (none)                      5:56am
  Renee Bergsma                Lakpa Nuru                   6:54am
  Martin Frey                  Tashi Chhiring               7:09am
  Matthew Gabriele             Dorje Sonam Gyalzen          6:05am
  James Holliday               Lhakpa Nuru                  6:55am
  Naoki Ishikawa               Nima Tenzing                 6:12am
  Alan Millard                 Pasang Kami                  6:18am
  Adam Parore                  Pasang Nima                  6:15am
  David Tait                   Nawang Tenjing               5:50am
  Shinji Tamura                 (none)                      7:09am
  Mark Woodward                 (none)                      6:54am
                               Son Dorje                    5:56am
                               Phurba Tashi                 6:54am

  (For Ballinger, Dorje Sonam Gyalzen and Phurba Tashi, their ascents on 20 May were their second ascents this month, after having fixed rope to the top on 5 May.)

  All summiters returned to C4 by 9:45 am.

  Non-summiting Everest members:

  Brice remained in BC throughout the climb.

  Jacobsen reached C3 on 2 May, then went down to BC; he made an attempt to go up the mountain again and went into the Icefall, then decided he didn't want to continue and left the expedition on 17 May.

  Chung went up to C2 on 28 April, but became concerned about his health. He left the team on 14 May after taking a while to make up his mind whether to go or not.

  Oritz did not get past BC for no clear reason and left on 12 April with his wife and daughter who had trekked to BC.

  Sandstrom also did not go above BC, and because of a heart problem left on 27 April.

  Oxygen was used by all members from C3 to their high points to C2 or wherever their supplies ran out. The Sherpas who fixed the ropes on May 5 used it in C2 to the top and down to C2 or wherever their supplies ran out. The main summit party's Sherpas used in C4 to their high points and down to C2 or wherever their supplies ran out.

  Sherpas:
    Dorje Sonam Gyalzen, 24/5/81, Phortse, Everest X9, Cho Oyu X1, Manaslu X1
    Lakpa Nuru, 1962, Phortse, Everest X2, Manaslu X1
    Lhakpa Nuru, 18/6/80, Phortse, Everest X4
    Nawang Tenjing, 1994-95, Phortse, no 8000ers
    Nima Tenzing, 26/4/91 (13/1/2048), Phortse, Everest X3
    Pasang Kami, 26/7/79, Phortse, Everest X3, Manaslu X1
    Pasang Nima, 1/10/92 (15/6/2049), Phortse, Everest X2
    Phurba Tashi, 24/5/71, Khumjung, Everest X17, Cho Oyu X5, Manaslu X1
    Rita Dorje, 24/10/77 (8/4/2034), Phortse, Everest X7
    Son Dorje, 22/5/63, Phortse, Everest X9, Manaslu X1
    Tashi Chhiring, 8/5/90, Khumjung, Everest X3
    Tashi Tshering, 26/4/77, Khumjung, Everest X2
    Tshering Tashi, 30/4/80, Khunde, Everest X3


expid: EVER11139
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Kari Kobler
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Everest Expedition 2011
countries: Austria, Germany, Italy
bcdate: 2011-04-15
smtdate: 2011-05-21
smttime: 0500
termdate: 2011-05-23
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
campsites:
  BC(15/04,5100m),ABC(21/04,6400m),C1(26/04,7000m),C1A(05/05,7500m),C2(11/05,7800m),C3(20/05,8300m),Smt(21/05)

routememo:
  During their acclimatization period, the team used C1.5 for one night only, 5 May. After that, it was bypassed.

  Except for the leader, who stopped in C1 in order to direct the climb from there, all members participated in the summit push of 20/21 May. They left C3 at 11:00 pm (NST)

  Non-summiting members:

  Baumann-Klittich and her husband, Baumann, climbed to 8700m and then descended to ABC on the 21st for "no clear reason," according to the leader.

  Brakus reached 8750m on the 21st but had no more strength to continue his ascent. He went back to C2 that day and to ABC on the 22nd.

  All the other members (that is, other than Baumann, Baumann-Klittich, Brakus and Kobler) gained the summit between 5:00 am (by Paratscha) and 6:00 am (by Fiala). All three members except Fiala, Gielesberger and Paratscha descended to ABC that day. Fiala stopped in C2, while Gielesberger and Paratscha went as far as C1.

  Oxygen was used by every member and Sherpa who went above C1 (Kobler did not go above it) from C1 except Paratscha, who began using it from C3, and Wirth, who used it from C2. Paratscha descended from the summit on it down to C1; Wirth was on it from C2 to the top to C3. All the Sherpas used it from C3 to the summit to C3.

  The Sherpas with them were Dendi, Jangbu, two Namgyals, Ngima Chhiring Lama, Pemba, Pemba Norbu and Phurba Kusang. Two more Sherpas climbed above C3, but failed to get to the summit. They were:

    Nga Dorje, 19/12/75, Makalu-9  (reached 8560m)
    Ngima Dorji, 10/9/75, Makalu-9  (reached 8320m)

  Sherpa Summiters:
    Pemba Norbu, 6/12/78, Lelep-9, Taplejung
    Dendi Sherpa, 22/1/83, Deku, Taksindu-5, Solu, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Jangbu Sherpa, 1/10/87 (1/10/81?), Sotang, Solu, Everest X2
    Namgyal Sherpa, 11/8/71, Lelep, Taplejung, Everest X9, Cho Oyu X1
    Kusang Tenzing, 16/5/86, Lelep-9, Taplejung
    Ngima Chhiring Lama, 15/8/73, Yamphudin-3, Taplejung
    Pemba Sherpa, 9/7/82, Lelep-8, Taplejung, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Phurba Kusang Sherpa, 10/9/75, Makalu-9
      (given as Phurbu Kusang, 6/12/73, Makalu-9 for DHA1-101-02)


expid: EVER11136
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Alex Abramov
sponsor: Seven Summits Club Everest Expedition
countries: Ireland, UK, USA
bcdate: 2011-04-12
smtdate: 2011-05-21
smttime: 0110
termdate: 2011-05-25
othersmts: Climbed Changtse
accidents: Only Delaney's death
agency: 7 Summits Adventure
campsites:
  BC.Sherpas(12/04,5200m),BC.Mbrs(19/04,5200m),ABC(24/04,6400m),C1(01/05,7000m),C2(09/05,7700m),C3(20/05,8300m),Smt(21/05)

routememo:
  C1 at North Col.

  Before tackling Everest, four members climbed Changtse, Everest's north summit. They were Bobok, Hanna, Mezova and Prinzyuk.

  The large expedition sent its members and Sherpas to the top in just one group, who left C3 on 20 May at 7:30 pm (Chinese time). They were: Beloyvan, Bobok, Cannizzaro, Delaney, Gretzky, Hanna, Mezova, Podolyan, Prinzyuk, Sokov plus eight Sherpas: Dawa Tenjin, Mingma Gelu, Nima Ongdi, Nur Ching, Pemba Nurbu, Pemba Renjin, Renjen and Tenjin.

  Delaney was a cancer survivor from 2006 and had told his family that he would climb no higher than C1's 7000m. But here he was a member of the summit party headed from the top. He had acclimatized quickly and was very strong.

  He and Mingma Gelu with him, never made it to the top. They climbed to 8800m on the morning of 21 May, and then Delaney became so exhausted that he suddenly collapsed. He couldn't move up or down. He was attached to to the only fixed rope, so everyone behind him had to stop. He became blind, couldn't stand up.

  Hanna and two Sherpas, descending from the summit, met them. They got Delaney to the bottom of the summit snowfield at the top of the Third Step at 8750m, and there Delaney literally dropped dead. The cause of his death is not known. His body was left where he died, wearing a red Mountain Hardwear down suit.

  Meanwhile all other members of the summit party had gone to the top at 1:10 am to 2:00 am on 21st, and all returned to ABC between 6:00 pm and midnight.

  Oxygen was used by the members from C1 to their high points to ABC. The Sherpas were on it from C2 to their high points to C1.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Tenjen, Balakharka, Makalu-5
    Mingma Gelu, 5/2/79, Balakharka, Makalu-5, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X1
    Nima Ongdi, 19/2/79, Balakharka, Makalu-5, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X1
    Nur Ching, Balakharka, Makalu-5
    Pemba Nurbu, Balakharka, Makalu-5
    Pemba Rinjin, Balakharka, Makalu-5
    Rinjen, 1/2/73, Balakharka, Makalu-5, Everest X6
    Tenjin, 14/4/91, Balakharka, Makalu-5


expid: KANG11114
peakid: KANG
year: 2011
route1: SW Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Mario Panzeri
sponsor: Friends Kangchenjunga Expedition
ascent1: 93rd
countries: Poland, Romania
bcdate: 2011-04-08
smtdate: 2011-05-20
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2011-05-22
campsites: BC(08/04,5500m),C1(16/04,6100m),C2(23/04,6800m),C3(01/05,7100m),C4(07/05,7400m),Smt(20/05)
agency: 7 Summits Adventure
routememo:
  The four-member expedition had no climbing Sherpas with them and took no artificial oxygen. They were able to put only one member on the summit.

  The successful summiter was Mario Panzeri. After 16 hours of climbing, he arrived at the top on 20th May at 9:00 am with a climber from Austria. He had left C4 for the top at on 19th May at 6:30 pm and was back in C4 at 3:30 pm on the 20th. The following day, the 21st, he returned alone from C4 to BC.

  The three other members turned back before the summit as follows:

  Gavan went to BC on 17 May during in his push for the top: he had stomach problems while climbing between C2 and C3 and did not resume the climb. He had been to 7000m with Michalski on 7 May during their acclimatization period.

  Michalski reached 8400m on the 20th, but turned back when he decided he did not have enough energy to get to the top and return safely.

  Martines turned back not far above C4 at 7400m. He had not acclimatized to the high altitudes throughout the climb.

  Fixed rope: 700m donated.


expid: LHOT11111
peakid: LHOT
year: 2011
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Eben Reckord
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Lhotse Expedition 2011
countries: UK
bcdate: 2011-04-11
smtdate: 2011-05-19
smttime: 1415
termdate: 2011-05-21
campsites: BC(11/04,5350m),C1(20/04,5900m),C2(22/04,6550m),C3(01/05,7300m),C4(20/05,7850m),Smt(19,21/05)
agency: Beyul Adventure
routememo:
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on West Face
  C4 on West Face.

  The team  had four members, but only two got to the summit.

  McCullum went into the Icefall to 5400m on 30 April, but her bad back sent her down to BC, and she never went higher.

  Reckord stayed in BC after having gotten to the South Summit of Everest on 21 May and then turned back because he was tired. He did not try for Lhotse's summit.

  The summiters, Arnsby, Postal and two Sherpas, Chewang Lendu and Pemba Dorje left their C4 for the top at 10:00 pm on 20 May, and summited at 5:00 am on the 21st. They descended to C2 at 2:00 pm.

  Chewang Lendu had already been to the top on the 19th, when he and Himalayan Experience Sherpas finished fixing the rope to the summit. He joined Arnsby and Postal from C3 on their way to the top on 21 May and thus did not make a complete second ascent.

  Arnsby and Postle used oxygen in C3 to the to where. Their Sherpas used it from where? to where? to where?.

  Fixed rope: 1600m from C4 to top.

  Sherpas:
    Chewang Lendu, 19/4/80, Phortse, Lhotse X3, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1, Manaslu X1
    Pemba Dorje, 1961, Pangboche, Everest X8, Cho Oyu X2


expid: LHOT11112
peakid: LHOT
year: 2011
route1: W Face
nation: UK
leaders: Adrian Ballinger
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Lhotse Expedition 2011
countries: China, Germany, Ireland, New Zealand, Norway, USA
bcdate: 2011-04-30
smtdate: 2011-05-19
smttime: 1415
termdate: 2011-05-28
othersmts: Climbed Everest (EVER-111-40)
campsites: BC(30/04,5350m),C1(14/05,6100m),C2(14/05,6400m),C3(24/05,7300m),C4(25/05,7550m),Smt(19,26/05)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  C1 was used by this Lhotse team only when the weather was too hot for them to go all the way to C2 on the same day.

  Two members, Jones and Smaller, had already left the expedition when the summit party set out from from their C4 to go to the top on 26 May at 1:00 am. Ballinger, Bierling, McKinley, Wang and Zhang with Sherpas Lhakpa Nuru, Phurba Tashi and Tashi Tshering summited at 4:45 am and descended to C2 at 9 am. They were back in BC on the 27th. This was Tashi Tshering's second ascent this month after having fixed rope to the top.

  Three Sherpas of the team's had already summited Lhotse on 19 May between 2:12 and 2:28 pm. They were Nima Tshering, Rita Dorje and Tashi Tshering, who went in advance to fix rope to the top with one Sherpa from the IMG Lhotse team and then descended to BC.

  Non-summiting members:

  Jones left team on 14 May; he had no more motivation to climb the mountain. 

  Smaller left on 15 May; she also had no more motivation to scale the mountain.

  Tait summited Everest and made no attempt to reach the summit of Lhotse.

  Oxygen was used by summit party members from C3 to the top to C2 and by their Sherpas from C2 to the summit to C2.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Nuru, 18/8/80, Phortse
    Nima Tshering/Nigma Chhiri, 22/4/72, Phortse, Everest X4, Manaslu X1
    Phurba Tashi, 24/5/71, Everest X17, Cho Oyu X5
    Rita Dorje, 24/10/77, Phortse, Everest X7, Manaslu X1
    Tashi Tshering, 26/4/77, Khumjung, Everest X2


  Billi Bierling - 14 Nov 2011 (email)

  Chris Jones did not get higher than base camp. He went on the acclimatization trip to Lobuche East and then quit. Sissel Smaller got to the bottom of the Lhotse Face, so I guess around 6500m.

  Brian Warren's highest point was C3. During our summit push he quit at the bottom of the Lhotse Face due to problems with his eye. He had had problems with his eye for a few days and he thinks it was from one very windy day, when it got infected.


expid: LHOT11113
peakid: LHOT
year: 2011
route1: W Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Carlos Pauner
sponsor: Spanish Expedition to Lhotse
countries: Mexico
bcdate: 2011-04-15
smtdate: 2011-05-20
smttime: 1310
termdate: 2011-05-25
campsites: BC(15/04,5350m),C2(28/04,6400m),C3(07/05,7100m),C4(20/05,7800m),Smt(20/05)
accidents: Manual Gonzalez exposure and frostbite on descent
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  The members included in Pauner's Lhotse permit were semi-independent parties: 1) Pauner and Perez; 2) Soria (and his Sherpa Muktu); and 3) Garra, Garcia and Oiarzabal. According to Perez, "We were three teams sharing everything at BC (Nepali staff, kitchen, etc). On the mountain, Soria worked separately from us with his Sherpa Muktu, but on many days we were together (during good weather periods, everybody climbed to upper camps.)"

  All the members reached the summit, but some of them developed serious health problems during or after their descent, and one was briefly thought to be dead.

  Five members, Garra, Gonzalez, Oiarzabal, Pauner and Perez left C4 on 21 May at 1:00 am. They were confronted by deep fresh snow, but carried on to the top. Soria and Muktu Lhakpa did not leave until 11:30 am, but they are fast climbers. The group summited between 1:10 and 1:30 pm.

  Then when they were coming down from the top, disaster struck Gonzalez. He didn't arrive at C4 on the 21st as expected; he was extremely tired and bivouacked at 7900m on a rock buttress called the Turtle. According to a report distributed by leaders of the teams involved in several rescue efforts of Lhotse climbers, when Gonzalez was seen from a distance, he looked to be dead. Damian Benegas of the Argentinian Everest expedition, who was descending from Everest's C4 to C3, saw the inert body and immediately left his Everest party in the hands of his Sherpas. Benegas and a professional guide on his expedition, Matias Erroz, headed towards Lhotse C4, and after giving help to two stranded Spanish climbers there, moved down to Gonzalez, and found that he was actually alive: he had survived the night out at 7900m.

  "When they arrived, he (Gonzalez) was conscious but unable to moved from the waist down. Due to his precarious position far from the fixed rope and in grave danger of a fatal fall, it took more than two hours of complex and dangerous rescue techniques to get Manuel Gonzalez to C4. Meanwhile, Phurba Tashi and Nigma Chhiri, two Himex (Russell Brice's team) Sherpas, had begun their ascent from C2 to the scene of the accident with a stretcher. They arrived at C4 in the afternoon and immediately initiated descent with the casualty back down towards C2 (6400m). With the help of at least 20 other people in the final few hundred meters, Manuel Gonzalez arrived at C2 at half past midnight," and the following day he was evacuated from C2 by helicopter.

  Oiarzabal started to collapse while descending from C1 through the Icefall to BC because of extreme dehydration and was administered oxygen there. He was a hospital patient in Kathmandu for several days.

  Soria, too, was admitted to a Kathmandu hospital. On 26 May he was under treatment for a serious kidney problem.

  Pauner did not take oxygen to BC for the team. Soria and his Sherpa used their own oxygen in C4 to the summit to and in C4. Perez bought some from Brice's expedition and used it from C2 to the top to and in C2. Gonzalez was administered oxygen during his rescue, and, as stated above, Oiarzabal was given it during his descent through the Icefall below C1.

  Sherpas:
    Muktu Lhakpa Sherpa, 21/8/72, Tashigaon, Makalu vdc, Everest X3, 
      Dhaulagiri I X3, Manaslu X2, K2 X1
    Nurbu Sherpa, 10/12/84, Nurbugaon, Makalu, Everest X1, Lhotse X1, Kangch X1


expid: MAKA11107
peakid: MAKA
year: 2011
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge (to 8200m)
route2: W Face-W Ridge (to 7000m)
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Marko Prezelj
sponsor: Slovenian Makalu Expedition
countries: USA
bcdate: 2011-04-23
smtdate: 2011-05-13
termdate: 2011-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 8200m due to bad weather
othersmts: Traversed entire Chago ridge (including summits) (CHAG-111-01)
campsites: BC(23/04,4850m),ABC(25/04,5700m),xxx(13/05,8200m)
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC  at Hillary BC area near Tangmar
  ABC at normal BC site
  High point at NW Ridge.

  BC was pitched on 23 April at 4850m near Tangmar in the Hillary BC area at a grassy spot pleasant for resting. Two days later, they occupied teh normal BC site at 5700m. Then they immediately went up the normal NW Ridge route to acclimatize before going to climb their chosen line on the West Face. On the 26th they moved up to 6300m on the Chago Glacier and returned to BC the same day. On the 30th they went up to 5795m and on 1 May to 6682m and back to BC that day.

  Now they divided into two groups. On 5 May House and Prezelj went onto the Chago ridge, which borders the west side of Chago Glacier and in three days with two bivouacs traversed the ridge from its southern end to point 6350m on the ridge (by the Schneider Khumbu map) and down to the tent they had left at ABC (5700m).

  The other group, Blagus, Lindic and Lorencic, went up onto the Chago ridge and bivouacked there at about 6000m. The next day they took the shortcut over to the normal route at 6700m. On the 7th they moved to the Makalu La at 7400m, then down to 6700m. On the 8th they descended to 5650m and BC.

  After a few days rest, the climbers moved up again on 11 May. House and and  Prezelj climbed to 5550m and the next day they went to the West Face to the Kukuczka-Kurtyka-MacIntyre 1981 route and bivouacked at 6600m. There was a lot of deep wet snow on the route because of the warm sunshine. In the afternoon of the 13th they moved up to 7000m in their final acclimatization climb and to check out conditions on the West Ridge; they went back down to 6600m and were in BC on the 14th.

  Meanwhile the other three members, Blagus, Lindic and Lorencic, went to the normal route for their final acclimatization. Blagus and Lindic climbed to C2 at 6600m, but Lorencic turned back at about 5800m because he was not feeling well and returned to BC. On the 12th Blagus and Lindic went on up to the Makalu La (7400m). On the 13th they got to 8200m, which turned out to be their high point: they descended to the Makalu La to bivouac that night. On the 14th they were in C2, on the 15th at 5700m, and on the 16th in BC. The three men were now too tired to continue climbing. 

  House and Prezelj carried on for another week attempting the West Face/Ridge but had no success. On 18 May they went from BC back to 5550m. That night it snowed, but next day they started up the ridge and raeched 6600m, where they had left a tent and some gear. To their dismay, they discovered that birds had gotten into the tent and carried away their only sleeping bag, a two-man bag. Then some big rocks came avalanching down five meters from their tent. So with fresh snow, rock fall, a bad night without a sleeping bag, and unsettled weather, they retreated to 5550m on the 20th.

  They decided to go back to the normal route and reached C2 on the 21st. The morning of the 22nd was clear but windy. Now well-known members of other teams coming down the mountain told House and Prezelj that it was not safe to try a fast climb in the strong wind. They moved down to 5700m that night; on the 23rd they climbed up to C2 to retrieve the oxygen they had left there. A descending American told them incorrectly that a Sherpa had died on the mountain above them. From C3 they retreated to BC, and left BC on the 25th. Their climb was finally over.


expid: MAKA11108
peakid: MAKA
year: 2011
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Joelle Brupbacher
sponsor: International Makalu Expedition
bcdate: 2011-04-18
smtdate: 2011-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 8400m due to climbing too slowly
campsites: BC(18/04,5700m),C1(25/04,6400m),C2(26/04,6600m),C3(19/05,7400m),xxx(21/05,8400m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  C3 at Makalu La
  High point at NW Ridge.

  Brupbacher left C4 (7700m) for the summit on 21 May at 2:00 am with Oscar Fernandez a member of the small team led by Jorge Egocheaga, according to Peter Hamor and Horia Colibasanu. She was slower than Fernandez and did not reach the summit as he did, but got to 8400m. Her Sherpa, Pasang Gyalzen, claimed they summited, but Egocheaga and her camera said 8400m only.

  She had made the same progress reaching C4 as Colibasanu, Hamor and Joao Garcia, said Colibasanu and Hamor.

  She had not been well during her entire climb, according to Fabrizio Zangrilli. She had been coughing a lot. But when Egocheaga and Ramos Martin, his teammate, met her at 8200m in the French couloir at 2:30 pm of the 21st, and they urged her to turn around because it was late, she refused and continued her ascent.

  She and Pasang Gyalzen returned to C4 at about 10:30 pm, according to a statement by Martin and Egocheaga. Next morning at 5 o'clock Egocheaga said every one should descend as soon as possible and asked Brupbacher and her Sherpa how they were. They said were tired but well, but that afternoon Brupbacher was in C3 (7400m at the Makalu La), exhausted and unable to move. Efforts to find oxygen for her from various teams was fruitless for hours, and by the time some had been found, she had died.

  Brupbacher died in C3 at 11:30 pm on the 22nd from pulmonary edema, hypoxia and cardiac arrest. Her body was left in the tent at C3; Zangrilli went up, collapsed the tent over her, and packed snow over the tent.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Gyalzen Sherpa, 30/7/81, Makalu village, Everest X2


expid: MAKA11109
peakid: MAKA
year: 2011
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Slovakia
leaders: Peter Hamor
sponsor: International Makalu Expedition
countries: Poland, Romania
bcdate: 2011-04-18
smtdate: 2011-05-21
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2011-05-25
othersmts: Attempted Pumori (PUMO-111-01)
campsites: BC(18/04,5500m),Biv(25/05,6400m),C2(26/05,6600m),C3(19/05,7500m),C4(20/05,8000m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Hamor and Colibasanu left C4 together on 21 May at 5:00 am and summited at 1:00 pm. They returned to C4 at 6:05 pm.

  They were in C3 on the 22nd after having stopped to help the distressed Swiss climber, Ms. Joelle Brupbacher, down from 7700m. On the 23rd they were back in BC.

  Hamor does not know exactly who will join him on Makalu; he brings all necessary ropes and hardware for mountain and his own gear and food while others bring their own food and gear. "I am ready to go alone if no others turn up but if they do, I am willing to climb with them."

  Jackovic and Pustelnik did not go to Makalu from Pumori.


expid: MAKA11105
peakid: MAKA
year: 2011
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Jorge Egocheaga
sponsor: International Makalu Expedition
bcdate: 2011-04-18
smtdate: 2011-05-21
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2011-05-24
campsites: BC(18/04,5500m),Biv(25/04),C2(26/04,6600m),C4(20/05,7700m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  The three Spaniards were semi-independent of Peter Hamor (who held the permit) and Horia Colibasanu.

  Martina and Egocheaga left C4 on 21 May at 2:00 am and summited at 1:00 pm. They returned to C4 at 7:00 pm.

  Fernandez, who set out from C4 with them, was not such a fast climber as his two teammates and had reached only 8350m at 1:00 pm. He then decided it was too late for him to continue his ascent. He turned around and descended to C4 at 4:00 pm. He was back in BC on the 22nd.


expid: MANA11312
peakid: MANA
year: 2011
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Sophie Denis
sponsor: Manaslu Autumn 2011
approach: Arughat
bcdate: 2011-09-23
smtdate: 2011-10-04
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2011-10-07
campsites: BC(23/09,4700m),C1(28/09,5700m),C2(29/09,6400m),C3(30/09,6800m),C4(03/10,7400m),Smt(04/10)
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
routememo:
  Denis left BC on her summit attempt on 28 Sept. She spent 3 nights at C3 during which she carried some material from C2 to C3. On 4 Oct she left C4 at 7 am and summited with Oscar Cadiach. She descended to C4 where she arrived at 4 pm. Following day to BC.


expid: MANA11313
peakid: MANA
year: 2011
route1: NE Face
nation: India
leaders: Arjun Vajpai
sponsor: Ultimate Grand Slam Challenge Manaslu Expedition 2011
approach: Arughat
bcdate: 2011-09-21
smtdate: 2011-10-04
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2011-10-06
campsites: BC(21/09,4700m),C1(01/10,5900m),C2(02/10,6700m),C3(02/10,7400m),Smt(04/10)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Mingma left with rope fixing Sherpas at 9 am. Nima and Vajpai left C3 at 5 am. Weather was calm. When they got to real summit there were about 15 people on the small summit. Vajpai thinks he was the 26th person to summit. They spent about 5 minutes on summit and descended to BC at 5 pm.


expid: MANA11314
peakid: MANA
year: 2011
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Rosa Fernandez
approach: Arughat
bcdate: 2011-09-12
smtdate: 2011-10-04
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2011-10-06
campsites: BC(12/09,4700m),C1(18/09,5700m),C3(23/09,6800m),C4(03/10,7400m),Smt(04/10)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Fernandez and Dorchi Sherpa left C4 at 6 am. Weather was calm. She reached real top at 2 pm, thene descended to C4, where she arrived at 5 pm. Next day they went to BC. On 7 Oct helicopter to Kathmandu.


expid: MANA11301
peakid: MANA
year: 2011
route1: NE Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Silvio Mondinelli
sponsor: Manaslu Italian Expedition 2011
countries: Spain
approach: Arughat
bcdate: 2011-09-15
smtdate: 2011-10-05
smttime: 0705
termdate: 2011-10-07
campsites: BC(15/09,4700m),C1(18/09,5700m),C2(22/09,6400m),C4(04/10,7400m),Smt(05/10)
accidents: Oiarzabal blindness, cerebral edema
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Mondinelli, Nuru Wangchu, Chiesa, Oiarzabal, Botta, Magliano, Salvatore and Dalla Rosa left C4 at 2 am. It was very windy. Magliano literally went back to his tent immediately as it was too windy. Dalla Rosa walked for about 1-1/2 hours and got too cold and turned back at about 7600m. Salvatore reached 7850m after 3 hours, but got too cold and turned back. [After summiting] Mondinelli and Nuru returned to C4 where they arrived at 9 am; Chiesa and Sonam Dorje also got back at 9 am. Botta arrived at C4 at 11 am to tell Sonam that Oiarzabal was in trouble near the summit (he was blind and exhausted). Sonam took oxygen from a Japanese expedition and ascended to Juanito to assist him down to C2, where Oiarzabal and Botta and 3 Sherpas spent the night. All other members had descended to BC in the mean time. On 6 Oct Mondinelli went back to above C1 to assist Oiarzabal on his descent. They arrived back at BC at noon.

  Oxygen:
    Chiesa and Sonam Dorje from C3 to summit to C3.
    Oiarzabal used emergency oxygen at about 8000m.

  Sherpas:
    Nuru Wangchu Sherpa, Pangboche, 18/8/77 (2/5/2034), Everest X6, Cho Oyu X3
      (Baruntse in 2008 with Mondinelli, Everest in 2011)
    Sonam Dorje Sherpa, Pangboche 18/1/86 (5/10/2042), brother of Nuru Everest, 
      Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2, Manaslu X1


expid: MANA11302
peakid: MANA
year: 2011
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Oscar Cadiach
sponsor: International Expedition K2 Guides Manaslu 2011
countries: Argentina
bcdate: 2011-09-19
smtdate: 2011-10-04
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2011-10-12
campsites: BC(19/09,4700m),C1(21/09,5700m),C2(22/09,6400m),C3(23/09,6800m),C4(03/10,7400m),Smt(04/10)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Summit team started at 7 am. Straightforward climb. On real summit for 20 minutes. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 4 pm. Comas arrived at 8 pm. Following day everyone at BC.

  Lucero reached 7300m on 3 Oct. When he was on his way to C4, he suddenly felt a pain in his heart and descended to C2. On 4 Oct a Sherpa helped him down and he was evacuated by helicopter on 5 Oct. He is now in CIWEC clinic.

  Munduate, Rull and Serra will try for summit on 10 Oct.


expid: MANA11303
peakid: MANA
year: 2011
route1: NE Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Simone La Terra
sponsor: X-Bonic Manaslu 2011
approach: Arughat
bcdate: 2011-08-31
smtdate: 2011-10-04
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2011-10-06
campsites: BC(31/08,4700m),C1(03/09,5700m),C2(12/09,6440m),C3(13/09,6770m),C4(03/10,7400m),Smt(04/10)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  La Terra left C2 at 6 am. It was cold and he had very cold feet, but he carried on. He got to summit at noon and spent about 5 minutes there. He descended to C3 where he arrived 4 pm. On 5 Oct he descended to BC. He carried all his own gear.

  Gervasi reached C3 on 2 Oct. He was too slow and struggled too much (altitude). He descended to BC on 2 Oct and left BC on 4 Oct32-+.


expid: MANA11304
peakid: MANA
year: 2011
route1: NE Face
nation: USA
leaders: Will Cross
sponsor: Cross on Manaslu
approach: Samagaon
bcdate: 2011-09-21
smtdate: 2011-10-05
smttime: 0915
termdate: 2011-10-08
campsites: BC(21/09,4700m),C1(26/09,5450m),C2(27/09,5800m),C3(03/10,6200m),C4(04/10,7400m),Smt(05/10)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Team left C3 at 3 am. Windy and cold. They spent 10 minutes on peak summit. Descended to C3, arrived at 4 pm.

  Sherpa:
    Gyaluk Lama, 18/04/75 (5/1/2032), Patle, Okhaldhunga, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1


expid: MANA11305
peakid: MANA
year: 2011
route1: NE Face
nation: Peru
leaders: Richard Hidalgo
approach: Arughat
bcdate: 2011-09-22
smtdate: 2011-10-04
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2011-10-06
campsites: BC(22/09,4700m),C1(24/09,5400m),C2(02/10,6670m),Smt(04/10)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Hidalgo left camp 2 at 10 pm on 3 Oct. Weather was good. He spent 15 minutes on the summit. He descended to C2, where he arrived at 6 pm. He spent the night in Oscar Cadiach's tent. Following day he descended to BC in 8 hours.


expid: MANA11306
peakid: MANA
year: 2011
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Marti Gasull
sponsor: Spanish Manaslu Expedition 2011
approach: Arughat
bcdate: 2011-09-12
smtdate: 2011-09-19
termdate: 2011-09-23
termnote: Abandoned at 5650m due to sick Sherpa
campsites: BC(12/09,4700m),C1(19/09,5650m),xxx(19/09,5650m)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  Gasuli went to C1 on 19 Sept and spent one night there. When he got back to BC on 20 Sept his Sherpa Mingma Tshering was feeling sick.

  They both left BC on 23 Sept to return to Kathmandu.


expid: MANA11307
peakid: MANA
year: 2011
route1: NE Face
nation: USA
leaders: Ryan Waters
sponsor: Mountain Professionals Manaslu 2011
countries: Australia, Norway
approach: Arughat
bcdate: 2011-09-08
smtdate: 2011-10-04
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2011-10-06
campsites: BC(08/09,4700m),C1(14/09,5700m),C2(21/09,6250m),C3(22/09,6750m),C4(03/10,7400m),Smt(04/10)
agency: Himalayan Trailblazer
routememo:
  Team left C4 at 6 am. Weather was good. They reached the real summit  and no one was there. They spent about 10 minutes on summit. They descended to C3 where they arrived at 5 pm. Next day BC.

  Barclay reached 6000m on 15 Sept for acclimatization. When he got back to BC, he found out that his wife was pregnant and abandoned the expedition. He left BC on 26 Sept.

  Sherpas:
    Tshering Dorje, 3/3/89, Rolwaling
      (usually works for RMA and summited Everest with Eric Larsen in Autumn 2010)
    Lhakpa Dorje, 2/6/71, Muse, Chaurikharka-4, Solu, Lhotse X1
      (summited Lhotse with Waters this spring 2011)


expid: MANA11308
peakid: MANA
year: 2011
route1: NE Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Carlalberto Cimenti
sponsor: Manaslu Expedition Fall 2011
approach: Arughat
bcdate: 2011-09-10
smtdate: 2011-10-04
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2011-10-06
campsites: BC(10/09,4700m),C1(12/09,5700m),C2(13/09,6440m),C3(18/09,6770m),C4(03/10,7400m),Smt(04/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Parajuli)
routememo:
  Team left C4 at 4 am. They carried skies and a snowboard. They had to wait to get the real summit for 40 minutes. Cimenti skied and Galliano snowboarded from Rock Tower to C4 and halfway to C3, then all the way from C3 to C2, where they slept. Arrived at 4:30 pm.

  Following day they skied from C2 to top of hour glass and then all the way to Crampon Point. Arrived at BC at noon.


expid: MANA11309
peakid: MANA
year: 2011
route1: NE Face
nation: UK
leaders: Philip De-Beger
bcdate: 2011-09-06
smtdate: 2011-10-04
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2011-10-06
campsites: BC(06/09,4700m),C1(12/09,5700m),C3(16/09,6700m),C4(03/10,7400m),Smt(04/10)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Team left C4 at 4 am. Weather was calm but cold. Straightforward climb. Reached true summit and spent 5 minutes up there. They descended to C3 where they arrived at 6:30 am.

  The following day to BC.

  Sherpa:
    Ang Phurba, Khembalung, Sankhuwasabha, 25/11/1985, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1


expid: MANA11310
peakid: MANA
year: 2011
route1: NE Face
nation: Belgium
leaders: Damien Francois
sponsor: Kutang 2011 to Manaslu
bcdate: 2011-09-13
smtdate: 2011-09-20
termdate: 2011-09-26
termnote: Abandoned at 5670m due to bad weather and Sherpas shortage of time
campsites: BC(13/09),C1(20/09,5700m),xxx(20/09,5670m)
agency: Himalayan Human Adventure
routememo:
  Damien Francois is very disillusioned with his expedition as his Sherpa Mingma Tshering only had 10 days to climb the mountain. When the weather did not improve, the team decided to leave base camp on 26th September and go to Samagaon from where they took a helicopter back to Kathmandu.

  Francois did not go higher than C1. He reached C1 on 20 Sept, stayed a night and came back down the following day, stayed at BC and then decided to leave on 24 Sept. He had problems with his Sherpa (the Sherpa did not have enough time) and as the weather was bad and did not get better they left. It was raining all the time.

  Sherpas:
    Mingma Tshering, Beding


expid: MANA11311
peakid: MANA
year: 2011
route1: NE Face
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Manaslu Expedition 2011
countries: Ecuador, France, Germany, Japan, Ireland, Latvia, Nepal, Russia, UK, USA
bcdate: 2011-09-03
smtdate: 2011-10-04
termdate: 2011-10-08
campsites: BC(03/09,3665m),C1(08/09,5670m),C2(16/09,6250m),C3(18/09,6650m),C4(03/10,7400m),Smt(04-05/10)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  The 30 member expedition assisted by 23 Sherpas above BC sent 23 members and 21 Sherpas to Manaslu's summit on 2 days, but first they ahd aborted attempts by two groups of members: they had been split into two parties because the expedition was so large. They were aborted because of heavy snowfall which triggered serious avalanche danger.

  The first party to abort their attempt left BC on 22 Sept, got to C3 the next day and stayed there for two nights. Bad weather sent them back to BC on the 25th. They were Atkinson, Ballinger, Barranov, Gwilt, Hawkins, Hewitt, Hinett, Rai, Sauls, Van Gass, Warren and Wiseman.

  The second party left BC on the 23rd and reached C1 that day, but went back to BC the next day. They were Bierling, Fujikawa, Godof, Hellmuth, Hiraoka, Kravcova, Kudo, McKinley, Saito, Sakai, Spruzs and Wallace.

  The successful climbers reached the top on 4 and 5 October, as follows:

       Member         Sherpa with this member       Summit time

       (none)         Dorje Sonam                   9:24 am
       (none)         Galgen Dorje                  9:24 am
       (none)         Ngima Chhiring                9:24 am
      Hellmuth        Lhakpa Nuru (old)             9:44 am
      Avila           Urken                         9:49 am
      Spruzs          Dawa Tenzing                  9:49 am
      Kravcova                                      9:49 am
      McKinley                                      9:49 am
      Saito           Rita Dorje                   10:23 am
      Kudo            Nima Sona                    10:23 am
      Hiraoka         Nima Tenzing                 11:04 am
      Fujikawa        Nawang Tenzing               11:04 am
      Sakai                                        11:04 am
      Godof           Son Dorje                    11:38 am
      Bierling        Pasang Kami                   1:55 pm

  5 October

      Warren          Pasang Nima                   8:41 am
      Hinett                                        8:41 am
      Rai             Ang Nuru                      8:45 am
      Sauls           Phura Namgel                  8:52 am
      Atkinson        Tashing Tshering              8:56 am
      Van Gass        Ang Pinjo                     8:58 am
      Ballinger                                     9:01 am
      Wiseman         Lhakpa Nuru (young)           9:01 am
      Barannov        Phurba Tashi                  9:09 am
      Hewitt          Sonam Tashi                   9:09 am
      Hawkins         Tashi Chhiring               10:25 am

  In their descent from the summit on 5 October, Ballinger and Baranov skied down from the big rock about 10 meters below the very top to C2. They had already skied down from C2 to 500m above BC, where the snow cover stopped, on 10 September.

  A contingent of 9 soldiers from the British army were sent to the expedition, all of them disabled to varying, degrees. They were no longer serving in combat units but were posted in offices or elsewhere in the army and were living in army barracks. Seven of them reached the summit of Manaslu.

  Non-summiting members:

  Brice considered the best spot from which to manage such a large team was from C1, so he went no farther.

  Chambers reached 6400m on 2nd October during the first summit attempt. He had not been feeling well all morning and continuously vomited during the ascent. He returned to C2 and descended to BC the following day. He stayed at BC for the remainder of the expedition.

  Chambers got to C2, but no higher; he didn't acclimatize well.

  Chaplin reached C4, but he was too slow climbing from C3 to C4 to try to go on to the summit.

  Craven hadn't acclimatized by 10 September and, like all other non-summiters, spent the rest of the team's climbing period in BC (leaving a Manaslu expedition early is not easy and is quite expensive).

  Gwilt got a lung infection after reaching C3.

  Howard reached C2 on 16th September. 

  None of them (other than Howard) left the expedition early because it would have been difficult or expensive to leave Manaslu BC separately.

  Two members, Bierling and Godof, used no oxygen at all. Bierling was slow without the oxygen and almost didn't get to the top. All other members used it on their push to the summit from C3 to their high points down to about C3. All Sherpas used it from C4 to their high points to about C3.

  All members descended to base camp after the summit.

  Ballinger and Baranov skied down from the summit (rock tower underneath the cornice) and skied all the way to C4. From there they skied to C3 and from C3 to C2 they only skied intermittently (I will get the exact distances later).

  Majid reached 6000m during the first acclimatization rotation on 16th September. He was feeling the effects of altitude and turned back. He descended to BC the same day and stayed there for the remainder of the expedition.

  Howard reached C2 on 16th September. He did not join the rests of the group to "tag" C3 on 18th of September as he was not feeling well. He had problems all the way through the expedition as he was feeling the effects of altitude. He returned to BC on 19th September and left BC on 26th September by helicopter from Samagaon.

  Chambers reached 6400m on 2nd October during the first summit attempt. He had not been feeling well all morning and continuously vomited during the ascent. He returned to C2 and descended to BC the following day. He stayed at BC for the remainder of the expedition.

  Craven reached 6900m on 3rd October during the first summit attempt. He felt very weak and turned back after having climbed for about five hours. He stayed the night at C2 and returned to BC the following day.

  Chaplin reached C4 on 4 October. He had taken more than eight hours from C3 to C4 and Brice decided that he was too slow to make it to the summit. He returned to BC on 5 October with the rest of the group after their summit success.

  Brice reached C1 on 6th September during the first acclimatization rotation. He stayed at BC for the rest of the expedition.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Nuru, 19/1/64, Khumjung [biodata in error]
    Dawa Tenzing, 22/7/70, Phortse, Everest X8, Manaslu X1
    Dorje Sonam Gyalzen, 24/5/81, Phortse, Everest X11
    Gyalzen Dorji, 17/2/88, Phortse, Everest X1, Lhotse X2, Manaslu X1
    Lakpa Nuru, 1962, Phortse, Everest X5, Manaslu X3
    Lhakpa Nuru, 18/6/80, Phortse, Everest X7, Manaslu X1
    Nawang Tenzing, 20/11/93, Phortse, Everest X1
    Ngima Chhiri/Tshering, 22/4/72, Phortse, Everest X4
    Nima Sona, 18/9/70, Phortse, Everest X2
    Nima Tenzing, 26/4/91, Phortse, Everest X3
    Pasang Kami, 26/7/79, Phortse, Everest X4
    Pasang Nima, 1/10/92, Phortse, Everest X3
    Phura Namgya, 13/8/87, Khumjung
    Phurba Tashi, 24/5/71, Khumjung, Everest X19
    Rita Dorji, 24/10/77, Phortse, Everest X8, Manaslu X1
    Son Dorje, 22/5/63, Phortse, Everest X10
    Sonam Finjo/Ang Pinzo, 3/10/85, Khunde, Everest X3
    Sonam Tashi, 4/11/90, Phortse
    Tashi Chhiring/Tashi Tshering, 8/5/90, Khumjung, Everest X2, Manaslu X1
    Tashi Tshering, 26/4/77, Khumjung, Everest X2, Lhotse X2
    Urkien Lendu/Urgen Tenzing, 10/2/93, Phortse, Everest X1, Manaslu X1

  Additional info on ski descent"

  On 18 September 2011, Sergey and Adrian skied from C2 (6250m) to Crampon Point (5000m). This day was combined with some other skiing days as high as C3 (6650m) and repeated descents below 6000 meters. They took their skis off for one 2-meter ladder, but had them on for the entirety of C2-Crampon Point other than the ladder.

  Summit day:

  Ballinger skied alone from the true summit (the highest rock point from where the route steps onto the summit cornice) down to the summit plateau (false summit where, to my understanding, all ski attempts have in the past begun from). Sergey joined Ballinger at the plateau. From there they skied continuously to approx 6100m, just below C2. Due to high avalanche danger (Ballinger caused a big slide onto clients and climbers below before deciding to stop skiing) and the fact that they had already skied this dangerous section, they took off their skis and descended by foot from 6100m to 5800m (below the hour glass) where they put their skis back on. They then skied from there to the rock step below Crampon Point (4900m) where the snow ended. From there they walked to BC.

achievment:
  1st Russian & British skiers from top
  1st Latvian man and woman
  1st German woman without supplementary oxygen


expid: PUMO11101
peakid: PUMO
year: 2011
route1: SE Face
nation: Slovakia
leaders: Peter Hamor
sponsor: Slovak Pumori
countries: Poland
bcdate: 2011-03-23
smtdate: 2011-03-25
termdate: 2011-03-27
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to very loose rock
othersmts: Climbed Makalu (MAKA-111-09)
campsites: BC(23/03,5140m),C1(24/03,5700m),xxx(25/03,5800m)
accidents: Jackovic mild chest infection (not going to Makalu)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
primid: MAKA11109
routememo:
  BC at Gorak Shep Lodge
  C1 at middle of first buttress on SE Face
  High point at SE Face.

  25 March fixed 100m rope up a rock couloir in which loose rock was falling (very dangerous);  returned to BC 25th. On 26th up to clear C1. Weather now collapsed; weather was very cold. Team did not bring enough food and had not enough time to try other route. Hamor had to go to Makalu.


expid: CHOY11301
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Ferran Latorre
sponsor: Spanish Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2011-09-13
smtdate: 2011-10-01
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2011-10-07
campsites: BC(13/09,4900m),ABC(15/09,5700m),C1(20/09,6400m),C2(24/09,7200m),C3(04/10,7600m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 14 Sept at 5300m.

  Orviz started his summit push from C2 at midnight of 30 Sept. He got to the top at 9 am on 1 Oct, stayed on summit for 30 minutes and descended to C2 at 11 am. He continued to descend to ABC, which he reached at 4 pm. He said that he had good view of Everest, Lhotse and other peaks.

  Latorre and Massague Palau put up their C3 on 4 Oct for summit push on 5 Oct. But due to high wind they could not continue their climb and went down to ABC on 5 Oct.


expid: EVER11104
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Kyle Beaird
sponsor: Bull Run Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2011-04-19
smtdate: 2011-05-21
smttime: 0215
termdate: 2011-05-26
campsites: BC(19/04),ABC(24/04,6400m),C1(29/04,7000m),C2(10/05,7600m),C3(20/05,8400m),Smt(21/05)
agency: 7 Summits Adventure
routememo:
  Beaird and his one Sherpa, Pasang left C3 for the top at about 7:00 pm on 20 May. He explained their early start: "We decided on an overnight summit because our summit window was so small and we didn't want to get stuck in traffic. We summited at 2:15 am on the 21st. We were one of the first groups up after the Chinese team, and I found one of the summit ropes (installed for the Chinese) to be dangerously improperly anchored (the end of the rope pulled right out of the anchor) and so I fixed this before we came back down." They descended to C1 for the night.

  Beaird commented that "I am thankful to have had the opportunity to summit Everest and to be joined by such hard working and talented Sherpas. Although we summited at night, it was a fantastic experience and well worth the physical and financial cost.

  "My only disappointment was the degree to which the Chinese politicized the mountain -- something I've not experienced anywhere else in the world. There were many instances where I was left a little confused regarding the political climate in Tibetan China. Issues not directly related to the mountain were having goods inspected while crossing into China for, among other things, pictures of the Dalai Lama and Tibetan flags. This continued with Internet access in country, which was censored. I could not access my email or my climbing blog."

  "On the mountain, it was the insistence of the Chinese that their team be the first to summit, which forced everyone else on the mountain to wait until the Chinese climbing team felt the conditions were just right. The non-Sherpa rope team didn't put up any ropes until the Chinese climbing team was ready to go for the summit, and in acting this way, the rope team missed many good chances to get ropes in much earlier. Additionally, it seemed (I only know this from second-hand accounts) that there was tension between the Chinese climbing team and the Tibetan rope team, for obvious political reasons.

  "The coup-de-grace was that once the Chinese team did actually make a summit attempt, something like only three of the 12-14 climbers actually summited. So we all waited many extra days if not weeks so that three Chinese climbers could claim the summit first. It seemed to me like a very amateurish way for a country of China's stature to act. The emphasis should be on climber safety, not on national pride. As you can imagine, emotions and frustrations on the mountain were running high, which I'm sure affected my perception of the political issues."

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Sherpa, 20/2/83 (8/11/2039), Balakharka, Makalu-4, Everest X4, 
      Cho Oyu X1, Makalu X1


expid: EVER08103
peakid: EVER
year: 2008
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Dawa Steven Sherpa
sponsor: Asian Trekking Eco-Everest Expedition 2008
countries: Austria, Brazil, Germany, Japan, Mexico, S Korea, Slovakia, Spain, USA
bcdate: 2008-04-13
smtdate: 2008-05-22
smttime: 0555
termdate: 2008-05-29
othersmts: Climbed Lhotse by Dawa Steven Sherpa (LHOT-081-13)
campsites: Smt(22,24-26/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
primid: LHOT08113
routememo:
  Asian Trekking Eco Everest 2008, led by Dawa Steven Sherpa - 5 June 2008

  Dawa Steven Sherpa was a nominal leader of this Everest Expedition, which was actually a collection of 11 independent foreign climbers. He was also on a permit to climb Lhotse, and he scaled both mountains. He moved independently of others schedules but sometimes joined them in sections of his ascents.

  First he climbed Lhotse. On 19 May he went up to C3 without any prior acclimatization trips. He had moved from C2 to C3 on the 18th with David Liano, the American member of his Everest group, and Stuart Smith, an American climbing Lhotse. On the 20th he went to Lhotse C4 at 7800m, at the bottom of the rock formation known as the Turtle below the couloir, with three Sherpas, Palden Namgye (22/9/72, Phortse), Nima Kancha (15/5/80, Khumjung), and Pemba Tshering (18/4/79, Khumjung), who were working with Smith's two-man team led by Will Cross.

  On 21 May, he left Lhotse C4 at 2:00 am and was on the summit at about 7:45 am same day with Stuart Smith and Pemba Tshering. He descended to C2 that day and went to BC on the 23rd.

  He immediately turned his attention to Everest. On the 24th he was back in C2 and on the 25th he moved up to Everest C4 on the South Col, which he reached at 12:45 pm. David Liano and Mingma Dorje (1/10/77, Thamo), had already arrived there earlier that day. They left C4 at 10:00 pm on the 25th and went to the summit on 26 May together at 6:55 am. He descended to C2 that day and to BC on the 27th.

  Dawa Steven used oxygen for his Lhotse climb in C4 to the summit to and in C4 and down as far as the bergschrund at the bottom of the West Face, where it ran out. On his Everest climb, he used it up from C2 to about an hour's climb below the Geneva Spur, then again in C4 to the summit and to C2.

  Name:  Dawa Steven Sherpa
  Camps: BC(13/04,5300m),C1(21/04,6100m),C2(05/05,6500m),C3(19/05,7300m),
         C4(25/05,7900m),Smt(26/05)
  Left:  28/05/2009
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Success


  The individual accounts for the other teams are given below:

  Apa Sherpa (Nepal)

  Name:  None
  Camps: BC(13-14/05,5350m),C2(16/05,6500m),C4(21/05,7900m),Smt(22/05)
  Left:  24/05/2009
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success

  Apa climbed to C2 on 16 May with Dawa Steven Sherpa and went to BC alone on 17 May. He began his summit push from BC with Mingma on 20 May to C2, on 21st to C4 and summit on 22nd at 5:55 am. They descended to C2 same day, but Apa arrived there late, at 6:00 or 7:00 pm, because he stopped to help another expedition's leader, Willi Benegas, get his snowblind member down. Apa complained that they had to wait an hour at the top of the Hillary Step for others to descend ahead of them.

  Hired Sherpa:
    Mingma Sherpa, 21/2/68, Yilajung, Everest X6


  Walter Laserer (Austria)
  Helmust Linzbichler (Austria)

  Name:  None
  Camps: BC(16/04,5350m),C1(24/04,5850m),C2(25/04,6430m),C3(22/05,7100m),
         C4(23/05,7960m),Smt(24-25/05)
  Left:  28/05/2009
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success

  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 at above Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 at south col.

  Laserer and Rita Dorje left C4 at 9 pm of 23 May, reached summit at 7 am of 24 May. They stayed on summit about 30/40 minutes, then descended to C4 at about 1 pm, slept there. Next day to C2 and the following day to BC. 

  Linzbichler and Pasang left C4 at 7 pm of 24 May, reached summit at 9:07 am, stayed on summit about 35 minutes, descended to C4 around 5 pm, slept there. Next day to C2 and following day to BC. 

  Laserer had to wait almost two hours because of senior citizen's (Sherchan's) expedition which were ahead of Laserrer between Balcony and South Summit. Weather on 25 May, south summit to summit was 30-40 mph and -35 degree. Summit was clear, there were clouds below, however Makalu Kangchenjunga could be seen. On 24 May weather was much the same as on 25 May, but wind was strong. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 31 May and will leave on 3 June.

  Sherpas:
    Rita Dorje, 24/10/77 (08/07/2034), Khumjung-9, Phortse, Everest X3
    Pasang Sherpa, 10/07/76 (27/03/2033), Siddhapokhari-8, Kerabari, Everest 31/5/05


  Tejvir Singh Khurana (USA)
  Gabriel Willmann (Germany)

  Name:  Everest Hypoxia Research Expedition
  Camps: BC(25/04,5300m),C1(27/04,6100m),C2(29/04,6500m),C3(26/05,7300m),
         C4(27/05,8000m),xxx(28/05,8500m)
  Left:  29/05/2009
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Abandoned at 8500m due to mice started dying
  Other: Climbed Island Peak (5 May by both members, Lhakpa Nuru & 8 mice)

  C4 at South Col
  High point below the Balcony.

  Khurana, Willmann, Lhakpa Nuru and Tenzing left C4 at about 8:30 pm of 27 May. Willmann, Lhakpa Nuru and Tenzing reached at 8500m probably at 12:30 am of 28 May. One of the Mice died; then the team turned around arrived at C4 at about 1:30. Khurana went up to 8300m. It was cold and windy. The team descended to C2 between 3-4 pm. Blood sample of mice was taken in C2. Next day to BC. The objective was to take blood sample of mice on the summit. The team returned to Kathmandu on 1 June and will leave on 4 June.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa, 21/5/75 (7/2/2032), Namche-4
    Tenzing Dorje Sherpa, 19/11/70 (4/8/2027), Khumjung-9, Phortse, Everest X3


  Email from Tejvir S. Khurana to Miss Hawley - 17 June 2008

  What was the reason that you ended your research when one of your eight mice died at about 8500 meters?

  Our gaol was to analyze gene changes from blood. One needs to a take a blood sample while animals are alive (as blood will clot after death). Hence when one mouse died probably from cold and the rest didn't look too good (just below the Balcony), we believed it was just a matter of time before all of them would be dead of hypothermia (this despite the insulated heating chamber they were in). Hence we returned to South Col.

  Why not continue up with the live ones and discover whether any of them could survive at 8850m?

  As mentioned our goal was to obtain from live animals and not to test whether they could survive at the summit.

  Why did you have to climb to do this research?

  We wanted to to these experiments in the "death zone" hence Everest was an obvious choice here.

  Why not do it in pressure chamber, where you can control and alter conditions at will?

  We do have a chamber at our lab, however, the kind of hypoxia you get using a chamber simulation ("normobaric hypoxia) is not the same as in the real world ("hypobaric hypoxia"). Additionally, the "real world" conditions such as cold/dehydration due to loss of water from mouth breathing, etc., probably also contribute to the bodies responses to hypoxia, especially in the peripheral tissues. Hence computer simulations or chamber simulations cannot replace the real world experiments. Indeed, we hope to be back next year to do more experiments. 


  Tatsuo Matsumoto (Japan)
  Helena Coelho (Brazil)

  Name:  M.M.E. Everest Expedition
  Camps: BC(22/04,5300m),C1(25/04,6000m),C2(26/04,6500m),C3(13/05,7100m),
         C4(22/05,8000m),xxx(23/05,8500m)
  Left:  24/05/2009
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 8500m due to cold and high wind

  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 above Khumbu Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Matsumoto and Phurba Sherpa left C4 at 9:30 pm on 22 May. They reached balcony around 12:30 am of 23 May. Weather at the beginning was good. At Balcony it was little windy and Sherpa told Matsumoto that high up there is strong wind and not safe to continue. Then Matsumoto and Phurba turned around to C4 and to C2 at 6 pm. Next day to BC. 

  Coelho went up to C2 on 13 May. She said that she did not come to climb but to coach Matsumoto.

  The team returned Kathmandu on 27 May and Matsumoto left on 28 and Coelho will leave on 30 May.

  Sherpa:
    Phurba Sherpa, 28-6-81 (14-03-2038), Namche-4, Phurte


  David Liano (Mexico)
  William Burke (USA)
  Quang Trong Than (USA)

  Name:  None
  Camps: BC(14/04,5300m),C1(20/04,6100m),C2(22/04,6500m),C3(10/05,7100m),
         C4(25/05,8000m),Smt(26/05)
  Left:  28/05/2009
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success
  Other: Climbed Lhotse on May 21 by David Liano (LHOT-081-18)

  Liano and Mingma left C4 10 pm on 25 May, reached summit at 6:45 am, stayed on summit for 45 minutes, descended to C4 at 10:30 am, then to C2 at 5 pm, and slept there. Next day to BC. It was windy, maybe 60 kmph and snowing. At the beginning up to balcony, cloudy till below the South Summit; summit was windy. Liano had good view from the summit. Others who were on summit, Japanese Miura with 3 or 4 Sherpas, Dawa Steven, 4 or 5 more Sherpas and also saw 3 or 4 climber coming up. Liano returned to Kathmandu on 31 May and will leave on 4 or 5 June.

  Burke suffered from lung infection in Namche. He stayed 3 nights in Namche. In Pheriche Burke suffered from pulmonary edema. He was given oxygen. He was evacuated by helicopter on 11 April. Burke left Nepal maybe on 16 or 17 April. 

  Than had acclimatization problem in BC. He could not sleep and eat. HRA clinic doctor advised him to go to Pheriche. He spent two nights in Pheriche. But back in BC he had same problem than left BC on 30 April. He probably left Nepal on 4 or 5 May.

  Sherpa:
    Mingma Dorje Sherpa, 1/10/77 (15/06/2034), Thamo, 
      Summited Cho Oyu on 2006 and 2007, Everest in 2000, 2004 & 2007,
      Friendship Peak and Kanguru X4


  William Holland (USA)

  Name:  None
  Camps: BC(15/04,5350m),C1(18/04,6100m),xxx(18/04,6100m)
  Left:  21/05/2009
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned due to deportation for possession of Tibetan flag in his 
         backpack as he climbed from BC to C1

  Independent climber on Everest - 28 April 2008

  Holland had a Tibetan flag in his backpack as he climbed from BC to C1 on 18 April. He planned to raise it on the summit, although he said he had no strong feelings about Tibetan independence. Apparently he thought it would be "cool" to put it up on the summit.

  Holland said he was unaware of the strict rules laid down by the Nepalese Tourism Ministry against possessing (even at base camp) any flag, banner, poster or other item dealing with Tibet during the sensitive time in March-May when Tibetans were staging protest demonstrations in Tibet and elsewhere in the run-up to the Olympic games in Beijing in August, which included the Chinese plan to take the Olympic torch to Everest's summit from the Tibetan side of the mountain in May.

  A unit of the Nepalese army was posted at BC and above to enforce these rules. His possession of the flag was reported to the army (see text of his statement of 28 April), and when he returned to BC on 19 April, he was ordered to immediately return to Kathmandu and report to the tourism ministry. He was never escorted by soldiers or police, but obeyed orders and left BC on 20 April.

  He flew from Lukla to Kathmandu on the 24th and went to the ministry. He was interrogated during several days and finally deported from Nepal on 28 April, and he left on that afternoon's flight by Thai International to Bangkok.

  The ministry banned him from climbing in Nepal for two years. (He could have been given a stiffer penalty of being banned from entering Nepal for two years, and of being fined $5000.)


  Letter from William Holland to the US Embassy - 28 April 2008

  I intended to climb Chomolungma from Tibet side for this spring and signed up for one of the Asian Trekking fixed departures. For the purposed of better acclimatization and for the condition I came via China by bicycle. While my trip in China and Tibet I enjoyed very much and had a great time experiencing the people and culture. As pre-planned, my mother and sister came from USA on 8th March to Kathmandu and we did Ghorapani Trek and Chitwan from 10 March till 18th March. When we arrived back from Chitwan I got the messsage from Asian Trekking that all the Tibet expeditions are postponed for this spring. I was very upset and did not know what I should do as I wished to climb Chomolungma for long time and worked hard last couple of year to save the money. I then requested Asian Trekking to put me on their Nepal Everest expedition, but since the expedition was full Asian Trekking managed to join with Himalayan Guides III Everest Expedition permit in the condition that I still can stay with Asian Treking basecamp service.

  Meanwhile I visited Bhutan 24th March till 2nd April. I then departed from Kathmandu to Lukla on 9th April and reached the base camp on the evening of 15 April. I was quite briefed that no electronic equipment such as camera, laptop, sat phone are not allowed to use without permission from security force at base camp until the May 10th. Upon late arrival to base camp I had missed the major meeting with rules and regulations.

  On 18th April I started crossing the Icefall and met the Mountain Maddness Expedition American team with their 2 Sherpas. I happened to have the Tibetan flag in my backpack which I showed to the team. They then informed me that the flag was a violation of the permit regulations. I told them that I had yet to receive the permit but that I was more than willing to follow the rules. I then disposed of the flag in the crevasse. Trusting to have the Sherpas dispose of the flag to alleviate a problem they instead took another action, as they then turned the flag over to security forces. I by no means intended to stage a protest or hinder the Olympic torch. I had simply wished to take a picture with the flag on the summit and return home with the flag. I also by no means belong to any such pro-Tibetan group. I had come to see many Tibetan flags, etc in Thamel and assumed this was not a problem to carry. I have come to know the Ministry and wrote this letter for Asian Trekking and Himalayan Guides at fault for the incident. I was responsible and hope that the problem will be resolved. They have in no way intended to cause a problem. Upon returning home I will provide full cooperation with regards to the incident and am willing to help clarify with no fault to Asian Treking and Himalayan Guides.


  Letter from K. P. Gnwali (Under Secretary) Ministry of Culture, Tourism & Civil Aviation to William Brant Holland - 28 April 2008

  As per the decision made by Government of Nepal, dated 2065/01/5 BC (27th April, 2008), you are deported from Nepal and banned to climb any of Nepalese mountain till 2 (two) years effecting from today against violating the Tourism Act 2035 (1978 AD) article No. 38, 1(c) and (f).


  Manuel Sanjuan (Spain)

  Name:  None
  Camps: BC(14/04,5300m),C1(23/04,6000m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(22/05,7100m),
         C4(23/05,8000m),xxx(24/05,8750m)
  Left:  26/05/2009
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 8750m due to snowblindness

  Independent on Everest - 21 July 2008

  C4 at South Col
  High point at South Summit.

  Sanjuan and Pemba Tenzing Sherpa left C4 at 9 pm on 23 May, arrived at 8750m at about 5 am of 24 May. It was very windy and San Juan became snowblind, turned around to C4 at about 12 noon, descended to C2 at 6 pm. Next day to BC. Sanjuan returned to Kathmandu on 29 May and will leave on 02 June.

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Tenzing, 6/1/88 (22/9/2044), Khumjung, Everest 21/5/07


  Jozef Kubica (Slovakia)

  Name:  None
  Camps: BC(15/04,5350m),C1(19-20/05,6100m),xxx(19-20/05,6100m)
  Left:  20/05/2009
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Did not plan to climb

  Independent on Everest - 21 July 2008

  Jozef Kubica was a non-climbing member of the Eco Everest Expedition, a collection of climbers under the nominal leadership of Dawa Steven Sherpa. He was told by Dawa Steven not to go above BC, but when Dawa Steven was climbing Lhotse, Kubica went without permission to C1. He was a student of photography, and he apparently went up to get some better pictures for his photography project.

  He went went to C1 on the 19th or 20th of May and returned to BC the same day. When he got back to camp, he was instructed by the liaison officer and sirdar to go immediately to Kathmandu, and he left BC the next day.

  In Kathmandu, he was banned from climbing any mountain in Nepal for two years.


  Tourism Ministry (via Jeevan Shrestha, July 2008):

  Kubica (19/7/79) was at BC with trekking permit with Asian Trekking. Lhakpa Tsheri Sherpa of High Altitude Dreams (aka Mountain Madness Trekking) expedition while descending from C2 to BC met Kubica at C1 area on 19 May 2008. Lhakpa had a chat with Kubica and became suspicious about Kubica. Lhakpa submitted a written note to one of the LO's in BC.

  On 1 June, Kubica said in the ministry that he does not know about the requirement of a permit to go to C1 area and he did not reach C1. He said that he was trying to have some photographs of the areas for his master's degree thesis. He is studying in Muthesrus University of Art in Kiel, Germany, which is mentioned in an e-mail sent by his professor to Asian Trekking for its assistance to Kubica to go to BC. On 2 June the ministry notified Kubica the decision of the Ministry that he is banned from mountaineering and expeditions in Nepal for two years from 2 June. Ministry also asked Asian Trekking to pay a penalty of Rs 10,000 for not abiding by the rules and regulations of the Ministry.


  Choi Seung-Hyun (S Korea)

  Name:  None
  Camps: BC(15/04,5400m),C1(22/04,5900m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(21/05,7300m),
         C4(22/05,8000m),xxx(23/05)
  Left:  26/05/2009
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Abandoned at 8500m due wind was picking up, one oxygen cylinder stolen, 
         and mask not working properly

  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 above the Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 at South Col
  High point at 8500m at Balcony.

  Korean Everest, Choi Seung-Hyun "Charles" - Spring 2008

  Choi and Tshering Thundu Sherpa left C4 at 8:30 pm on 22 May and reached Balcony around 4:30 am on 23 May. Tshering changed oxygen cylinder of Choi while Choi having rest and drinking water. Thukten went past leader and Tshering Thundu dropped two 4 lt oxygen far away from the place where Choi was sitting. When Choi and Tshering prepared to go up, Choi saw that the wind was picking up the speed. Choi saw dark clouds over Lhotse and lightning. At the same time Choi realized that the oxygen mask was not working properly. The slot that lets the outside air in was blocked with ice and snow. He felt his hands and feet were getting cold. For some time Choi was hesitant whether to continue or to go down for safety. After a while, Choi decided to turn around. Tshering Thundu started picking up oxygen cylinders then he realized that one of they cylinders was missing and found one used Korean cylinder instead of full cylinder. Earlier while Choi and Tshering Thundu were sitting facing Lhotse, Choi heard a Korean woman talking to a Korean man saying that the Korean woman's oxygen finished at that point and the Korean man told the woman to pick up one of the cylinders lying in the place (Choi's cylinders which were left by Thukten for Choi to use later). Choi was sure that his cylinder was taken by the Korean [woman] climber. Then Choi and Sherpas descended to C4 at 9:30 am. At 12 noon left C4 for C2 where they arrived at 8:30 pm and next day to BC.
   
  Choi had talk with the Korean expedition leader but the expedition denied taking Choi's cylinder. Choi returned to Kathmandu on 29 May and will leave on 2 June. Choi submitted his hand written 22 pages complain against the Korean team whose member had stolen the oxygen cylinder to Nepal Tourism Board on 29 May. The officer at NTB told Choi that his complaint will be forwarded to Mountaineering Section of the Tourism Ministry and to contact the Mountaineering Section on 31 May.

  Sherpas:
    Thukten Dorje Sherpa, 30/6/68 (17/03/2025), Thami, Everest X6
    Tshering Thundu Sherpa, 4/10/74 (18/06/2031), Khumjung-2, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1


expid: EVER09101
peakid: EVER
year: 2009
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Dawa Steven Sherpa
sponsor: Asian Trekking Eco-Everest Expedition 2009
countries: Austria, Denmark, Germany, India, Netherlands, USA
bcdate: 2009-04-11
smtdate: 2009-05-21
smttime: 0433
termdate: 2009-05-27
campsites: Smt(21,23/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  The Asian Trekking Eco Everest expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-5 climbers each). Asian Trekking provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Nicholas Cunningham (USA)

  Name:  None
  Camps: BC(17/04,5300m),C1(24/04,6096m),C2(25/04,6522m),C3(05/05,6950m),
         C4(20/05,8000m),Smt(21/05)
  Left:  25/05/2009
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success

  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 above the Khumbu Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Cunningham and Phurba started from C4 at 9:15 pm on 20 May, reached summit at 5:30 am on 21 May, and stayed on summit for 40 minutes. Cunningham and Phurba descended to C4 at 8:40 am. They had rest in C4 for 3 hours then to C2 at 4:30 pm, slept there. Next day to BC. 

  Summit day weather was perfect. About 50 climbers were ahead of Cunningham and 10-15 climbers were with them and may be about 50 climbers were behind him. Cunningham returned to Kathmandu on 28 May. He probably will leave on 1 June.

  This was the last of his Seven Summits.

  Sherpa:
    Phurba Sherpa, 27/6/58, Thamo, no 8000ers


  Jesse Easterling (USA)

  Name:  None
  Camps: BC(17/04,5350m),C1(22/04,5900m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3(08/05,7200m),
         xxx(08/05,7200m)
  Left:  17/05/2009
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 7200m due to sickness from drug taking

  Easterling had to abandon expedition as he followed his doctor's advice and took 4 mg of Dexamethasone 3 times per day. He started taking it in mid-April. He started feeling first symptoms (paranoia, memory loss, ravanous appetite, confusion, ulcers, internal bleeding in first week).

  He thought it was altitude and his upset stomach. When he climbed to C3 he even took Nipefidine to make climb easier. But it was still very hard for him. After his ascent to C3 he descended to Lobuche for four days to rest and recover. All the time he continued taking Dex. He went back to BC and started getting panic attacks. However, he did not tell anyone as he still wanted to go to summit. Bill Burke gave him $60 to go to HRA tent. They found acute adrenal failure and steroid-induced psychosis. He was helicoptered out from BC together with Henry Voigt. He first went to Blue Cross, then to International Clinic, where they took some blood and told him to take Prozac against his paranoia. He went back to the Malla hotel for one night and after his stool was bloody and he threw up blood, they took him to Norvic Hospital. He stayed there from 19 May until 1 June.

  Easterling emphasizes that his memory has not quite come back and that he cannot remember everything in detail.

  Sherpa:
    Phu Tashi, 23/10/77, Phortse, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1


  Will Cross (USA)

  Name:  None
  Camps: BC(11/04,5400m),C1(15/04,6000m),C2(16/04,6300m),xxx(27/04,6500m)
  Left:  08/05/2009
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 6500m due to lack of time (and death of Lhakpa Nuru)

  BC at Khumbu Glacier
  C1 above the Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  High point at base of Lhotse Face.

  Cross spent the night at C2 and went to BC on 28th. He waited in BC for good weather till 8 May. He said he just did not like to wait for long and left BC. He returned to Kathmandu on 11 May and will leave on around 15 May. Cross wants to go to Cho Oyu, but Asian Trekking told him that it will take a week to get permit for Cho Oyu. He said he does not have enough time if he is to wait one week in Kathmandu [but he ultimately did go to Cho Oyu].

  Sherpa:
    Nawang Tenzing (Nawangle), 1/2/60, Phortse, Everest X3, Lhotse X2


  William Burke (USA)
  Randolph Allen (USA)

  Name:  None
  Camps: BC(15/04,5350m),C1(18/04,5900m),C2(21/04,6400m),C3(20/05,7200m),
         C4(21/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
  Left:  27/05/2009
  Hired: 3
  Term:  Success

  Summit team left C4 at 10 pm on 22 May. It was very windy at start; however wind died down later on. They spent about 30 minutes on summit, but with no views. They descended to C4, arrived at 2 pm. On 24 May descent to C2. They had to stay at C2 for two nights due to heavy snowfall and descended to BC on 26 May.

  Allen reached C4 on 21 May, stayed two nights. When Burke left for summit on 22 May, he left C4 at 11:30 pm with Puchhanga Bhote. He reached about 8000m when he noticed that he could not breathe due to problem with oxygen mask. He decided to turn back to C4 at about 2 am. Puchhanga carried on to the summit.

  Sherpas:
    Mingma Sherpa, Thamo, 01/10/77
    Puchhanga Bhote, Chepuwa-3, Gumba village, 2/4/80, no 8000ers
      Ama Dablam, 2008 Pumori 1998 & 2005 (Korean, Austrian exp with Ernst Meschik)
    Samden Bhote, aka Sonam Bhote, 25/79 (4/9/2036), Hungdung, Makalu, no 8000ers


  Walter Laserer (Austria)
  Thomas Arnold (Germany)
  Bernadina Maria Notenboom (Austria)
  Felix Stockenhuber (Austria)
  Dagmar Wabnig (Austria)

  Name:  Laserer Alpin Everest Expedition
  Camps: BC(14/04),C1(24/04,6000m),C2(26/04,6000m),C2(26/04,6400m),
         C3(06/05,7200m),C4(22/05,7980m),Smt(23/05)
  Left:  25/05/2009
  Hired: 3
  Term:  Success

  On 7 May, when Lhakpa Nuru from Phurte, Laserer and Notenboom were in the lower part of the Icefall, they were hit by an ice avalanche. Lhakpa Nuru's body was never found; he was probably buried under avalanche debris. Laserer and Notenboom were pushed by the avalanche about ten meters into a crevasse and found themselves upside down with Notenboom on top of Laserer. They shouted for help, and Pasang Sherpa with big Indian expedition responded. Laserer pushed Notenboom up while Pasang climbed down to her and pulled her out. Now it was possible to get to Laserer and Pasang and others pulled him out too. Laserer and Notenboom were not injured and were able to go on with their climb.

  Laserer, Notenboom and Stockenhuber, plus two Sherpas, Lhakpa Nuru (from Khumjung) and Tenzing Dorje, made their bid for the summit when they left C4 for the top on 22 May at 9:30 pm. Stockenhuber turned back at 8200m on the 22nd because his fingers and toes were cold, while the others continued to the summit at 7:30 am on the 23rd. They returned to C4 at 11:30 am, descended to C2 on the 24th and BC on the 25th.

  On their way from C4 to the top, Laserer and Notenboom found the American summiter Mike Farris, who was seriously affected by cerebral edema. They pushed him to a safer spot and put his warm clothes back on him and radioed Russell Brice to send up Sherpas to rescue him.

  Stockenhuber, with Arnold and Wabnig, left BC on the 25th: they had no chance of summiting and the weather was not good. Laserer and Notenboom left on the 26th following their summit success.

  Non-summiting members:

  Arnold reached C4 with Laserer and Notenboom on 22 May, but did not join them in their summit bid because he didn't like the strong wind that was blowing.

  Wabnig reached only the bergschrund at about 6800m at the bottom of the Lhotse Face on 5 May and never went higher. He had a breathing problem.

  Oxygen was used by Laserer, Notenboom, Arnold and Stockenhuber in C3 to their high points; Laserer and Notenboom continued to use it until they returned to C2. The Sherpa summiters used it from C4 to the top to C4.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Nuru, 18/1/91 (4/10/2047), Khumjung, no 8000ers
    Lhakpa Nuru, 21/5/75, Phurte, Khumbu, Everest 21/5/07
    Tenzing Dorje, 19/11/70, Phortse, Everest X3


  Henry Voigt (Germany)

  Name:  None
  Camps: BC(15/04,5380m),C1(28/04,6100m),C2(29/04,6400m),C3(01/05,7300m),
         xxx(01/05,7300m)
  Left:  19/05/2009
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 7300m due to illness

  High point at 7300m.

  Voigt summit push target was 21 May. He was in C2. On 17 May he told that he remembered going to sleep on 17 May evening. On 18 May morning a Sherpa found Voigt lying unconscious about two meters away from his tent. Sherpas helped him to go to C1. He was unconscious and vomiting, very weak. Sometimes he could walk and sometimes Sherpas carried him to C1. Dawa Steven gave him oxygen. He felt better and walked to BC by himself. He was using oxygen in BC too. Dawa Steven slept in his tent with him. HRA doctors advised him to leave BC. On 19 May he was evacuated to Kathmandu by helicopter. When I met him he was Ok. He could not tell me how and when he went out of his tent. Earlier on 20 April Voigt had toothache. HRA clinic doctor gave him medicines but it was not effective. He went to Namche on 23 April from BC. On 24 April his wisdom tooth (right) extracted in Namche clinic. He went back to BC on 27 April and to C1 on 28 April [and then up to C3 on 1 May]. 

  He was supposed to leave Kathmandu on 25 or 30 May.

  Assigned Sherpa:
    Tenzing Dorje Sherpa, 19/11/70 (04/08/2027), Phortse, Khumjung-9, Everest X3

  Tenzing Dorje later summited with Walter Laserer and Bernadina Notenboom and is listed with that team for summiting.


  Yuri Pritzker (USA)

  Name:  None
  Camps: BC(17/04,5300m),C1(22/04,6100m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3(05/05,7200m),
         C4(20/05,8000m),Smt(21/05)
  Left:  25/05/2009
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success

  Pritzker and Thukten Dorje started from C4 at 9:15 pm of 20 May. They reached summit at 4:33 am of 21 May. Pritzker and Thukten spent 45 minutes on summit, then descended to C4 where they arrived at 8:30 am. They had rest for a while then descended to C2 where they arrived at 6:30 pm, slept there. Next day to BC. Summit day weather on South Summit little windy. Pritzker returned to Kathmandu on 28 May and will leave on 1 June.

  Sherpas:
    Thukten Dorje, 30/06/68, Thami, Everest X6
    Nima Kancha, 19/7/75, Pare, Everest 18/5/06


  Mogens Jensen (Denmark)

  Name:  None
  Camps: BC(14/04,5300m),C1(22/04,6000m),C2(23/04,6500m),C3(21/05,7100m),
         xxx(22/05,7750m)
  Left:  25/05/2009
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 7750m due to symptoms of pulmonary edema

  High point below Geneva Spur.

  It was suppose to be the summit push for Jensen. He started from C3 at about 6 am on 22 May with Pemba. At 7750m where they reached around 9 am, Jensen felt difficulty in breathing. The initial symptom of PED (pulmonary edema) and he decided to turn around. Arrived C2 around 2 pm, slept there. Next day to BC. 

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Tshering Sherpa, 18/4/79, Khumjung, Everest X2, Lhotse X1


  Krushnaa Patil (India)

  Name:  None
  Camps: BC(20/04,5330m),C1(27/04,6200m),C2(28/04,6400m),C3(19/05,7200m),
         C4(20/05,7950m),C4(20/05,7950m),Smt(21/05)
  Left:  25/05/2009
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success

  Patil, Pasang and Gyaluk started from C4 at 9 pm on 20 May. They reached summit at 6:30 am on 21 May, stayed on summit between 30-40 minutes, descended to C4 at 12:40 pm, slept there. On 22 May to C2 and on 23 May to BC. During the ascent the weather was good but little windy. Climbers ahead of Patil were less than 100 and behind were were about 30 climbers. Patil returned to Kathmandu on 28 May and will leave on 1 June.

  Patil is 1st Maharashtrian girl and 2nd youngest Indian to summit Everest.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Temba Sherpa, 27/1/70 (14/10/2026), Thami
    Gyaluk Lama, 21/8/75, Patle, Okhaldhunga, Everest X2


  Unassigned climbing Sherpas:
    Naga Dorje Sherpa (Sirdar)
    Pemba Tenzing Sherpa
    Ang Mingma Sherpa 
    Nima Tshering Sherpa    
    Phurba Jangbu Sherpa 


expid: EVER10113
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Malaysia
leaders: Muhammad Mugharabbin Mokhtarrudin
sponsor: Seven Summits Malaysian Expedition (Monterosa Treks)
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-04-07
smtdate: 2010-04-11
termdate: 2010-04-12
termnote: Abandoned at 5700m due to leader physically unprepared
campsites: BC(07/04,5200m),xxx(11/04,5700m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Mokhatarrudin and Pema went up to mid-camp on 11 April and returned to CBC.

  Mokhtarrudin said that he was not prepared physically to climb further up and decided to give up. He will try in 2012 to climb Everest from the north side. 

  Sherpa:
    Pema Sherpa, 28/8/73 (12/5/2030), Pathivara-1, Sankhuwasabha, Everest X2


expid: EVER10115
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Ireland
leaders: Domhnall O'Douchartaigh
sponsor: Irishman to Everest
bcdate: 2010-04-07
smtdate: 2010-05-07
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2010-05-10
campsites: BC(07/04,5350m),C2(17/04,6400m),C4(06/05,8000m),Smt(07/05)
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  Team left C4 at 7:30 pm. Weather was calm and clear. Clouds about 5500m. Climb was straightforward. Reached the summit at 6 am together with Lucile de Beaudrap from Peak Promotion and her Sherpa Tshering. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit. They descended to C4 to rest and arrived there at about 10:30 am. Pemba and O'Dochartaigh took their tent down and continued to C2, where they arrived at 1 pm.

  The next day they descended to base camp. O'Dochartaigh and Pemba together with Lucile were the first clients to summit this season.

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Sherpa, Patle-4, Okhaldhunga, 06/01/1980, Everest 2008 and 2009


expid: EVER10104
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Jim Williams
sponsor: Exploradus Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2010-04-14
smtdate: 2010-04-27
termdate: 2010-05-10
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to Slaughter's weakness
campsites: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(25/04,6100m),C2(27/04,6500m),xxx.Mbrs(27/04,6500m),xxx.Shrpa(28/04,7300m)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  The two Americans arrived in C2 on 27 April and spent two nights there. On the 28th Nima Tashi went up to the site for C3 at 7300m, then all of them descended to BC on the 29th.

  On 4 May, Slaughter and Nima Tashi moved up to C1 and on the 5th to C2. On the 6th they walked over to the bottom of Lhotse's West Face, where their route led next.

  Back in BC on the 7th, Slaughter said that he was too weak to continue and his climb was finished. He was a very light eater and simply had no strength left.

  On the 10th, the team went from BC to Pangboche; the next day a helicopter picked up Slaughter and took him to Kathmandu. The same afternoon he flew to Bangkok.

  Williams stayed at Pangboche to wait for the gear to come down. On the 15th he hitched a ride in another team's helicopter to Lukla and from there flew by scheduled flight to Kathmandu.

  Two Sherpas above base camp plus C2 cook.

  Team's high points: 
    Sherpa  - 7300m on 28 April
    Members - 6500m on 27 April

  Sherpa:
    Nima Tashi, 4/4/60, Pangboche, Everest X8


expid: EVER10105
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Wally Berg
sponsor: Hanesbrands Everest 2010
countries: Canada
bcdate: 2010-04-10
smtdate: 2010-05-17
smttime: 0840
termdate: 2010-05-21
campsites: BC(19/04,5300m),C1(20/04,5800m),C2(22/04,6500m),C3(14/05,7250m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  The leader, Wally Berg, remained in BC throughout the climb.

  The two members, Clarke and Simper, made their summit push in mid-May. They established C3 on 14 May and C4 at the South Col on the 15th. They spent two nights in C4 so as to be rested before setting out for the top.

  The two members with four Sherpas, Ang Namgyal, Arita, Kami Tshering and Pemba Dorje, left C4 at 11:00 pm on the 16th and got to the summit at 8:40 am on 17 May. It was warm and only slightly windy at the top, where they spent an hour and 20 minutes filming for themselves and for the team's sponsors Hanesbrands, then returned to C4 at 2:00 pm. They descended to C2 the next day and were back in BC on the 19th.

  The two members left BC on 21 May and took a helicopter from Pangboche to Lukla on the 23rd. They were back in Kathmandu on the 24th on a scheduled flight and left the country the next day.

  Both members used oxygen in C3 and all the way to the top, including the time spent in C4, then to and in C4. Sherpas used it in C4 to summit to, but not in C4.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Namgyal, 21/6/80, now Pangboche, Everest X4
    Arita Sherpa, 1959, Thami, Everest X8
    Kami Chhiring, aka Ang Chhiring, 1962, Pangboche, Everest X9, Cho Oyu X6
    Pemba Dorje, 1961, Pangboche, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X2


expid: EVER10106
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Albert Bosch
sponsor: Spaniard on Everest
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2010-04-10
smtdate: 2010-05-17
smttime: 1217
termdate: 2010-05-20
campsites: BC(10/04,5350m),C1(16/04,6100m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3(28/04,7100m),C4(16/05,8000m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Summit: Bosch and Ang Kami at 12:17 am.

  Team left C4 at 9:30 pm on 16 May. Weather was windy but clear. From the Hillary Step it started being cloudy. No views from top. They stayed about 20 minutes on top. They descended to C4 where they arrived at 7 pm. On 18 May they descended to C2 and on 19 May to BC.

  Oxygen:
    Bosch from C3 to summit to C3
    Ang Kami from C4 to summit

  Sherpa:
    Ang Kami, Gudel-5, Solukhumbu, 21/08/82, Everest X2, Lhotse X1


expid: EVER10107
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dave Morton
sponsor: First Ascent Everest Expedition 2010
bcdate: 2010-04-13
smtdate: 2010-05-23
smttime: 1015
termdate: 2010-05-26
campsites: BC(13/04,5360m),C1(19/04,6300m),C2(20/04,6450m),C3(4/05,7200m),C4(22/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  The summit party, which was the entire team, Arnot, Morton, Tshering Dorje and Tshering Wangchu, left C4 for the summit at 1:00 am on 23 May, and all got there at 10:15 am. They returned to C4 at 3:00 pm.

  They were back in BC on the 24th, left BC on the 26th and trekked to Gorak Shep, where a helicopter picked them up and took them to Kathmandu the same morning.

  Everyone, members and Sherpas alike, used oxygen in C4 to the summit to and in C4.

  Sherpas:
    Tshering Dorje, 20/7/70, Kharikhola, Solu, Everest 11, Cho Oyu X5, K2 X1
    Tshering Wangchu, 16/3/83, Thamo, Everest X3, Lhotse X1, Cho Oyu X1


expid: EVER10109
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Julio Bird
sponsor: Wret Six Friends Chomolungma Expedition 2010
countries: Japan
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-04-12
smtdate: 2010-05-17
smttime: 0645
termdate: 2010-05-19
campsites: BC(12/04,5200m),ABC(17/04,6400m),C1(06/05,7000m),C2(15/05,7600m),Smt(17/05)
agency: World Records Expeditions
routememo:
  Summit: 17 May by Bird, Lhakpa Gelu and Lobsang at 9 am (CST).

  Bird, Lhakpa Gelu and Lobsang left C2 on 16th May at 5 pm Nepali time. It was windy (about 20 knots) but clear when they set off. The reason why they summited from C2 was that Lobsang was not able to go to C3 the previous day to put up camp. As the weather window was very small, they did not have enough time to go to C3 for another night, so they tried from C2.

  The team reached C3 at 10 pm. They met the Chinese team in their camp, but did not stop and carried on straight to the summit. They reached the top at about 9 am Chinese time (6:45 am NST). They spent about 15 minutes on top, then descended to C2, where they arrived at about 9 pm (NT).

  On 18th May, they descended to ABC.

  Bird, Lhakpa Gelu and Lobsang used oxygen from 7600m (C2) to the top and back to C2. They also slept on it.

  Fisher reached 7000m (North Col) on 22 April. He was not feeling well that day. He went back to ABC and rested there for two days. On 26th April, Bird and Fisher descended to Chinese Base Camp and stayed there for eight days. Fisher was trying to make up his mind whether to stay or not. He decided to abandon the expedition as he had some health issues (eye infection) and left BC on 30th April.

  Hoshino reached Chinese BC Camp at 5200m on 12th April. He had a severe toothache and a dentist at BC told him that he had a huge hole in his tooth. On 16th April, he went to Shegar to have it treated, but never came back to BC.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Gelu, Kharikhola, Jubing-1, 23/06/07 (World Record Speed Ascent Holder)
    Lobsang, Kharikhola, Jubing-1, 27/06/85, summited Everest on 15/5/07


expid: EVER10110
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Dario Schwoerer
sponsor: Top to Top Clean Up Expedition
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2010-04-19
smtdate: 2010-05-23
smttime: 0530
termdate: 2010-05-26
campsites: BC(19/04,5350m),C2(01/05,6400m),C3(21/05,7100m),C4(22/05,8000m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  Summit: Hug and Nima Sherpa on 23rd May at 5:30 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 7 pm on 22nd May. There were lots of people on the fixed ropes. It was a calm night and not too cold. They reached the top at 5:30 am, and descended to C4, where they arrived at 12 noon. As the wind had picked up in the afternoon they got stuck at C4 and stayed the night. On 24th May, they descended to base camp, where they arrived in the late afternoon.

  Schwoerer reached C4 on 22nd May together wth Hug and Nima Tshering Sherpa. Due to the weather forecast that predicted high winds for that day, he decided not to take the risk. He and his wife had set a wind speed limit of 30k/h for Schwoerer and he promised he would not go up if the winds are supposed to be stronger than this. He rang his wife from C4 and she told him that the winds were going to be higher than 30k/h. He did not stay the night at C4 and left again at about 3 pm.

  On the way down, he started having problems breathing just before C3. He took Diamox but it did not really help. He got to C2 at about 6:30 pm. The following day he did not feel much better and left C2 to descend to BC at 5 am. He reached base camp at about 12 noon, packed his things and left BC at 2 pm to go to Khumjung where his family was waiting.

  The main aim of the expedition was to clean up. Schwoerer was also involved in organising the recovery of the dead body of Uwe Gianni Goltz, who was picked up from C2 by two Swiss pilots (one was the Italian climber, Simone Moro).

  Oxygen:
    Hug and Nima Tshering used oxygen from C4 to summit to C4
    Schwoerer used oxygen from partly from C3 to C4

  Sherpas:
    Nima Sherpa (17/10/68, Lelep-9, Taplejung, no 8000m peak experience


expid: EVER10111
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Huang Nu-Bo
sponsor: Huang Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2010-04-17
smtdate: 2010-05-17
termdate: 2010-05-20
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak on 13 April
campsites: BC(17/04,5350m),C1(22/04,6100m),C2(23/04,6500m),C3(28/04,7200m),C4(17/05,7900m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  Before going to Everest BC, the team of one member and two Sherpas went to Island Peak, and all three men summited it on 13 April.

  On Everest, after occuping C2 on the 22nd and 23rd of April, the team descended to BC on the 24th to rest. On the 26th, they moved up again: to C1 on that day, made C2 on the 27th, and pitched C3 on the 28th, then back to BC for a rest.

  On 4 May the two Sherpas went up again to C2, nad on the 5th they climbed to the site of C4, where they deposited the equipment for the camp and bottles of oxygen. They went down to C2 on the 6th and to BC on the 7th for their rest; Huang had remained in BC while they were above.

  They began their climb to the top on the 13th, when all three men ascended to C2 from BC. They went to C3 on the 14th and occupied C4 on the 15th. On the 16th at 9:30 pm they left C4 for the summit, and at 10:30 am of the 17th they arrived there. They spent that night in C4, then descended all the way to BC on the 18th.

  On the 20th, they flew by helicopter from BC via Lukla to Kathmandu. The next day, the 21st, Huang left by road to go to Kodari and thence to China.

  All of them used oxygen. Huang started using it from C3, and continued on oxygen to and in C4, to the summit, and to and in C4. The Sherpas used it from C4 to the top and back to C4.

  Sherpas:
    Kame Sherpa, 28/8/62, Bagam, Kerung-4, Solu, Everest X9, Lhotse X1, Cho Oyu X1,
      Dhaulagiri I X1
    Lhakpa Dorje, 1/10/65, Chitre, Sotang, Solu, Everest X5, Lhotse X1


expid: EVER10112
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Colombia
leaders: Juan Pablo Ruiz
sponsor: Epopeya Everest sin Limites 2010
bcdate: 2010-04-11
smtdate: 2010-05-17
smttime: 1120
termdate: 2010-05-21
campsites: BC(11/04,5350m),C1(15/04,6100m),C2(22/04,6400m),C3(24/04,7100m),C4(16/05,8000m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Arun Treks/Ang Nuru
routememo:
  Summit: Cardona, Avila, Phu Dorje on 17th May at 11:20 am.

  Summit team left C3 at 9:30 pm on 16th May. The night started off being windy, however, the wind died down later. Cardona, who has a prosthesis, did not have any problems going up, however, coming down was quite difficult and he needed a lot of help.

  On the way up, Avila ran out of oxygen on the South Summit, but he carried on to the summit without. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit and started the descent. Due to Cardona's problems with the prosthesis they were very slow coming down. Avila carried on down without oxygen, however, Phu Dorje found an oxygen bottle on the South Summit on the way down that was not entirely empty, so Avila used it. It only lasted a couple of hours.

  They arrived back at C4 at about 8:30 pm where Ruiz was waiting. Ruiz did not carry on to the summit on 16th May due to breathing problems. He suffered from pneumonia a few months before he went to Everest and at C4 he had similar symptoms, so he decided to stay there and wait for the summit team to return. On 18th May, they descended to C2 and on on 19th back to base camp.

  Henao reached 7700m on 16th May. He was not feeling well that day; his body felt numb. He left C3 using oxygen, however, as the numbness in his body did not go away, he turned back and descended to C2.

  Oxygen:
    Avila from C4 to 8450m and after that on and off to C4
    Cardona from C4 to summit to C4
    Henao from C3 to 7700m to C3
    Ruiz from C3 to C4 to C3
    Phu Dorje from C4 to summit to C4

  Sherpas:
    Phu Dorje/Fu Dorjee Sherpa, Phortse, 7/12/75, Everest X2 (with Koreans),
       Cho Oyu X1


expid: EVER10137
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Basanta Singha Roy
sponsor: Mt Everest Silver Jubilee Expedition
approach: Lukla->Jorsale->Namche->Pangboche->Dingboche->Thukla->Lobuche
bcdate: 2010-04-14
smtdate: 2010-05-17
smttime: 0740
termdate: 2010-05-22
campsites: BC(14/04,5300m),C1(21/04,6000m),C2(27/04,6400m),C3(29/04,7300m),C4(15/05,7950m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Loben Expeditions
routememo:
  On 16 May Biswas, Singha Roy, Pemba and Pasang started from C4 at 8 pm. Pemba reached to the top at 7:40 am followed by Biswas, Singha Roy and Pasang at 8:40 am on 17 May. They stayed on summit for one hour and 20 minutes. Weather was beautiful, no wind and clear sky. There were 15-20 climbers ahead of Singha Roy team and behind them were many climbers. The team descended to C4 at 1 pm and slept there. On 18 May down to C2 and on 19 May to BC. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 25 May and will leave on 2 May.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Chhuti Sherpa, 15/7/73, Yaphu-9, Everest X4
    Pasang Phutar Sherpa, 8/7/61, Sankhuwasabha, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X1


expid: EVER10118
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Mexico
leaders: Aldo Valencia
sponsor: A Mexican on Everest
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2010-04-06
smtdate: 2010-05-23
smttime: 0815
termdate: 2010-05-26
campsites: BC(06/04,5350m),C2(14/04,6400m),C3(10/05,7100m),C4(22/05,8000m),Smt(23/05)
accidents: Infection on back of leg
agency: Mountain Tribes Trekking
routememo:
  Summit: On 23rd May, Valencia Corona and Pema Sherpa at 8:15 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 8 pm on 22nd May. Many people were climbing that morning. There were a few traffic jams on the way. Valencia had problems with his boots and had big blisters, which were painful and slowed him down.

  They stayed about 20 minutes on the summit. Good views from the summit. On their descent to C4 at about 8300m they bumped into a sick Frenchman who was helped by Willie Benegas and created a traffic jam. They had to wait quite a bit. They arrived at C4 at 2:30 pm and stayed the night there. On 24th, they descended to BC; it took them 12 hours to get down.

  During the expedition, on 14th May, Valencia went to Kathmandu for treatment for an infection he had on the back of his leg. Peter Hackett of the HRA at BC had cut out the infection on 13th May and told Valencia that it would heal more quickly if he went to Kathmandu. He was treated at CIWEC for four days and returned to BC on 18th May by helicopter.

  Oxygen:
    Valencia from C3 to summit to C2
    Ang Pemba from C4 to summit to C4

  Sherpa:
    Ang Pemba Sherpa, Thami, Khumbu, 25/7/78, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1


expid: EVER10140
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Heo Young-Ho
sponsor: Jecheon Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2010-04-10
smtdate: 2010-05-17
smttime: 0840
termdate: 2010-05-23
campsites: BC(10/04,5350m),C1(25/04,6050m),C2(26/04,6500m),C3(14/05,7200m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  The summit party left C4 at 8:40 pm on 16 May. They were Heo Jae-Seok, Heo Young-Ho, Kim Dong-Sik, Shin and Sherpas Wang Dorje, Ang Phurba, Pemba Jangbu and Tashi Lhakpa. All reached the summit on the 17th at 8:40 am (Heo father and son, Tashi Lhakpa) and 9:40 am (the other members and Sherpas). In their descent, the second group had to wait an hour and a half at the Balcony because of the crowd of climbers. The first group got back to C4 at 4:00 pm, while the second one arrived at 7 pm.

  The whole team were down in C2 on the 18th and BC on the 19th.

  Non-summiting members:
   
  Baek reached C2 on 10 May and went to the bottom of the Lhotse Face but climbed no higher. He returned to BC with the Heos.

  Kim Heon-Yong climbed to just below C1, then descended to BC because of stomach trouble and left the expedition on 27 April.

  Kim Sung-Hwan went to C4 on the 15th to join in the summit push, but he became snowblinded and went down to C2 on the 17th instead.

  Oxygen was used by Kim Dong-Sik from the Balcony to the top to and in C4. The Heos, Shin and the Sherpas used it in C4 to the top to and in C4.

  Sherpas:
    Wang Dorje, 22/4/79 (9/1/2036), Makalu, Sankhuwasabha
    Ang Phurba, 1969, Lukla, Solu
    Pemba Jangbu, 16/2/86, Bupsa, Jubing, Solu, Makalu 11/5/08
    Tashi Lhakpa, 18/11/85, Mathilow, Walung, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X1


expid: EVER10161
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Victor Saunders
sponsor: Challenge 8000 Everest Expedition
countries: Brazil, Malta
bcdate: 2010-04-14
smtdate: 2010-05-17
smttime: 0620
termdate: 2010-05-22
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(17/04,6050m),C2(22/04,6350m),C3(15/05,7300m),C4(16/05,7950m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Before going to Everest, all members and Pasang Dawa went to Island Peak and summited it on 11 April.

  The entire expedition left C4 9:00 pm on 16 May and reached the summit between 6:20 (Gatt) and 7:30 (Monteiro) am on the 17th. They all returned to C4 between 10:30 and 11:00 am to spend the night there. They descended to C2 on the 18th and to BC the next day.

  Oxygen was used by the members from C3 to C4, in C4 to the top to and in C4 to C3. The Sherpas used it from C4 to top to, but not in C4.

  Sherpas:
    Chyang Jangbu Bhote, 28/9/79, Hatiya-9, Makalu-Barun, Everest X2
    Pasang Dawa (Pa Dawa), 18/1/77, Pangboche, Everest X11, Cho Oyu X5, etc
    Pemba Dorje, 36 yrs old, Pangboche, Everest 22/5/08
    Dorje Gyalzen, 16/7/82, Pangboche, Everest X4, Manaslu X1, Cho Oyu X1
      (assigned to Kenton Cool's group)


expid: EVER10175
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Gabriel Filippi
sponsor: Filippi to Everest
bcdate: 2010-05-11
smtdate: 2010-05-24
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2010-05-29
othersmts: Attempted Himlung (HIML-101-01)
campsites: BC(11/05,5200m),ABC(17/05,6400m),C1(19/05,7000m),C2(22/05,7800m),C3(23/05,8300m),Smt(24/05)
agency: Mountain Tribes Trekking
routememo:
  Summit: 24 May by Filippi and Lhakpa Nuru at 9 am.

  Filippi and Lhakpa Nuru left C3 at 2 am. Weather was calm, snowy and very warm. Straightforward climb, but long waits on the steps (about 1.5 hours on the 1st Step). No views from the summit. They spent 1 hour 45 minutes on the summit, during which they were sending text messages and taking pictures. They descended to C3, where they arrived at 12:45 pm. They rested there for about 15 minutes and carried on to ABC, where they arrived at 5 pm.

  Oxygen:
    Filippi from C1 to summit to C2
      (during the 1:45 hrs on the summit they did not use oxygen)
    Lhakpa Nuru from C3 to summit to C3

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Nuru, Yilajung, Khumbu, 26/7/72, Everest X8, Cho Oyu X3


expid: EVER10176
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Peru
leaders: Richard Hidalgo
sponsor: A Peruvian on Everest
bcdate: 2010-05-11
smtdate: 2010-05-25
termdate: 2010-05-29
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to too much wind, not feeling confident
othersmts: Attempted Himlung (HIML-101-01)
campsites: BC(11/05,5200m),ABC(17/05,6400m),C1(20/05,7000m),C2(24/05,7800m),xxx(25/05,8000m)
agency: Adventure Extreme
primid: HIML10101
routememo:
  Hidalgo left C2 at 9:30 am. It was very windy and clear. Nobody was going up, however, people were coming down from the summit. He climbed for about 1 hour 30 minutes until he reached 8000m. He did not feel confident in himself that day and as it was also very windy, he decided to turn around. He descended to C2 in about 45 minutes. He spent another night at C2 and on 26th May he descended to ABC.

  Hidalgo did not have any Sherpas or oxygen.


expid: EVER10108
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Sung Gi-Jin
sponsor: 2010 Dong A University Everest Expedition
approach: Phakding->Namche->Debuche->Pheriche->Lobuche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2010-04-08
smtdate: 2010-05-17
smttime: 0750
termdate: 2010-05-20
campsites: BC(08/04,5400m),C1(19/04,6100m),C2(20/04,6400m),C3(23/04,7200m),C4(15/05,7980m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal
routememo:
  Choi, Jang, Kim, Tashi, Nima and Wangchukal left C4 at 9 pm on 16 May. Cho reached summit at 7:50 am, Kim at 9 am followed by Sherpas; Jang arrived on summit at 9:50 am. Cho stayed on summit for about two hours waiting for two fellow climbers and Sherpas. Cho descended and arrived at Balcony around 3 pm, then to C4 at 4 pm; by 5:30 pm all arrived to C4. They spent the night there. On 18 May, Cho and Kim along with three Sherpas descended to BC. Jang spent the night at C2 and on 19th May to BC. At the time of start from C4 it was windy, later no wind and not very cold, overall weather was good. On 17 May while descending at about 11 am started snowfalling around South Summit. Ahead of Cho's team there were about 10 climbers. 

  Leader of the expedition Sung climbed up to C2 and slept there on 20 April. 

  Team returned to Kathmandu on 20 May and will leave on 28 May.

  Fixed ropes: contributed 200m ropes

  Sherpas:
    Tashi, 04/12/77, Cheremy, Bung-9, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X3
    Nima Chhiri, 30/04/77, Gudel-4, Everest X5
    Wangchukal (Onjukal), 19/1/80, Yamakani, Olangchungola-9, Everest X2


expid: EVER10138
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Ian Hibbert
sponsor: An Australian for Everest
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-04-16
smtdate: 2010-05-21
termdate: 2010-05-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to weakness, lack of nutrition
campsites: BC(16/04,5200m),ABC(18/04,6400m),C1(21/05,7000m),xxx(21/05,7000m)
agency: Adventure Extreme
routememo:
  Hibbert made 4 attempts to get to North Col, but he was too weak and hypoxic. He had trouble eating all the way through the expedition. When he finally got there, he slept well and was Ok. However, due to feeling so weak due to lack of food, he abandoned his climb. On 22 May he descended to ABC.

  Sherpa:
    Dorje, Dimbil, Tapting-9, Solu, 22/6/1970, Makalu in 2008, Lhotse X1, Cho Oyu X1


expid: EVER10130
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Robert Miller
sponsor: Austrians for Everest
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2010-04-23
smtdate: 2010-05-23
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2010-05-25
campsites: BC(23/04,5350m),C2(26/04,6400m),C4(22/05,8000m),Smt(23/05)
accidents: Frostbite 3rd degree by Ranner on right hand
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  Summit: On 23 May, Miller, Ranner and Jyamchang Bhote at 6:00 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 8 pm on 22nd May. It was clear with a slight wind. Climb was straightforward. They stopped at the Balcony to wait for the Sherpas for about 20 minutes, which cost them quite a bit of time. They spent about half an hour on the top. Good views. Ranner kept on taking off his big gloves on the summit, which could have been the reason for him getting frostbite.

  They descended to C4, where they arrived at 12 noon. When they got to C4, Ranner noticed that he had frostbite on four fingers of his right hand. He put them into a bowl with hot water to defrost. On 24th May they descended to C2, where they stopped for water and food and carried on to BC, where they arrived at 6:30 pm.

  Ranner went to the HRA to get some treatment. He took a helicopter back to Kathmandu on 26th May and went to CIWEC. He might lose parts of his fingers.

  Miller walked out and left BC on 25th May.

  Oxygen:
    Miller from 7700m to top to 7700m
    Ranner from 7700m to top to C2
    Jyamchang Bhote from C4 to top

  Sherpas:
    Jyamchang Bhote, Hungung, Farang, Sankhu, 13/4/81, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2


expid: EVER10133
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: John Furneaux
sponsor: Canada West Mountain School Expedition to Everest
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2010-04-09
smtdate: 2010-05-25
smttime: 0915
termdate: 2010-05-28
campsites: BC(09/04,5350m),C1(16/04,6100m),C2(22/04,6400m),C3(22/05,7100m),C4(23/05,8000m),Smt(25/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Summit: 25th May by Furneaux at 9:45 am, Ainscough, Dawa Finjo and Thendorje at 9:15 am.

  Furneaux, Ainscough, Hill, Dawa Finjo and Thendorje were forced to stay at the South Col for two nights as the weather on the 24th did not look very good. The whole team left C4 at 8 pm on 24th May. Weather was clear, but very windy. They had to break trail to the Balcony as the snow was knee-deep.

  Hill reached the South Summit (8750m) and decided to stop there as he was very tired. He was happy with his achievement and decided to call it quits. He turned back at 9:15 am and descended to C4 [with Mingma Dukpa]. In the meantime Ainscough, Dawa Lama and Thendorje summited at 9:15 am and after having sent off Hill, Furneaux caught up and summited at 9:45 am. They spent about 3 minutes on the summit with great views. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 2 pm.

  On 26th May they descended to C2 and on 27th to BC.

  Summit Sherpas:
    Dawa Finjo Lama Bhote, Hatiya-1, Makalu, 5/9/88, Everest X1
    Thendorje, Pangboche, Khumbu, 22/4/83, Everest X5

  Oxygen:
    Ainscough from C3 to summit to C3
    Hill from C3 to high point to C3
    Furneaux from C3 to summit to C4
    Sherpas from C4 to summit to C4


expid: EVER10135
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Finland
leaders: Mikko Vermas
sponsor: Finnish Expedition Everest-Lhotse 2010
bcdate: 2010-04-05
smtdate: 2010-05-22
smttime: 0803
termdate: 2010-05-26
campsites: BC(05/04,5350m),C1(17/04,6100m),C2(21/04,6400m),C3(30/04,7100m),C4(21/05,8000m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Summit team left C4 at 10 pm on 21st May. Straightforward climb, no problems. Lots of people on the ropes. There were about 40 people going up. They spent about 22 minutes on the summit. After the summit they descended to C2 where they arrived at about 7 pm. The next day they descended to BC.

  Mikko Vermas was part of the Finnish Everest-Lhotse team, led by Tomi Myllys; however, he was the only member to climb Everest.

  Oxygen:
    Vermas from C3 to summit C3
    Pasang Nuru from C4 to summit to C4

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Nuru, Bupsa, Jubing-5, 17/5/74, Everest X3, Makalu X1, Cho Oyu X1


expid: EVER10129
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiroshi Ogasawara
sponsor: A Japanese to Everest
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-04-13
smtdate: 2010-05-24
smttime: 1030
campsites: BC(13/04,5200m),ABC(19/04,6400m),C1(21/05,7000m),C2(22/05,7800m),C3(23/05,8300m),Smt(24/05)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  Summit date: 24 May by Ogasawara, Pemba Nurbu, Pemba Rita and Mingma Gyalje at 10:30 am (NST).

  Ogasawara, Pemba Nuru, Pemba Rita and Mingma Gyalje left C3 at 9:30 pm on 23rd May. They were together with Peter Adolfsson and his Sherpas. It was snowing and there was a bit of a wait at the steps. Adolfsson reached the summit before Ogasawara, who got there at 10:30 am, but Adolfsson met him when he was on his way down. Even though Hiroshi seemed exhausted he was doing Ok. He said he was tired, but Ok.

  Pemba Nurbu told Adolfsson later that at one point Ogasawara grabbed his heart on the summit and said there was a slight pain. However, he got down to the 3rd Step Ok, but when he reached the 2nd Step he had to be short-roped and helped down. His three Sherpas dragged him down. Pemba Rita was running up and down between C3 and 8400m to get some water and tea for Hiroshi. When Hiroshi and Pemba Nurbu got to about 8400m, Hiroshi sat down and collapsed and died at about 1:30 am on 25th day.

  Nobody knows what Hiroshi died of. Pemba Nurbu arrived at C3 at about 3 am. He was very tired and very shaken.

  Oxygen:
    Hiroshi C1 to summit to point of death
    Sherpas from C2 to summit to C2

  Sherpas: 
    Pemba Rita, Beding, Rolwaling, 31/8/79, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X1
    Pemba Nuru, Beding, Rolwaling, 22/7/80, Everest X4
    Mingma Gyalje, Beding, Rolwaling, 14/4/86, Everest in 2007, Manaslu X1


expid: EVER10131
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Silvio Mondinelli
sponsor: Italian Everest Expedition 2010
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-04-08
smtdate: 2010-05-24
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2010-05-26
campsites: BC(08/04,5200m),ABC(15/04,6400m),C1(21/04,7000m),C2(22/04,7500m),C3(23/05,8300m),Smt(24/05)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Summit: 24 May by Blanc, Camandona, Enzio and Mondinelli at 1 pm without oxygen.

  Team left C3 on 24th May at 2:30 am. It was snowing, but it was warm. All four of them climbed without oxygen. On their way up, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, who also climbed without oxygen, caught up with them on the 2nd Step. They climbed together and reached the summit at 1 pm (NST). It must have been the first time ever that five people had reached the summit of Mount Everest together without oxygen.

  They had no views from the summit. After the summit they descended to C2.

  On 25th May they descended to ABC.


expid: EVER10132
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Andreas Sippel
sponsor: Two Germans to Everest
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-04-09
smtdate: 2010-05-24
smttime: 0940
termdate: 2010-05-28
campsites: BC(09/04,5200m),ABC(14/04,6400m),C1(23/04,7000m),C2(22/05,7700m),C3(23/05,8300m),Smt(24/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Summit: 24 May by Sippel, Eberhard and Pemba Gyalzen at 9:40 am (NST).

  Team left C3 at 1:20 am on 24th May. It was snowing, but warm. Hardly any views from the summit, only a part of the South Col and Nuptse. They spent about one hour on the summit and left at about 10:30 am. They descended to C3, where they arrived at 2:11 pm. They rested until 4 pm and continued on to C2, where they arrived at 6:30 pm. It was very windy in the evening.

  On 25th May, Eberhard left C2 at 10 am and descended to ABC. Sippel waited for the two Spanish climbers, Pedro and Alfredo Garcia, who had suffered frostbite on the mountain. Alfredo seemed to have edema and Sippel gave him Dexamethasone. The Tibetan Mountaineering Rescue team came to C2 and helped the two Spaniards down to ABC. Sippel and Pemba Gyalzen left C2 at 3 pm and reached ABC at 6 pm.

  Oxygen:
    Members from 7700m to summit to 7700m
    Pemba Gyalzen from C3 to summit to C3

  Sherpa: 
    Pemba Gyalzen Sherpa, Thami, 22/7/69, Everest X5


expid: EVER10134
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Sweden
leaders: Peter Adolfsson
sponsor: A Swede to Everest
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-04-13
smtdate: 2010-05-24
smttime: 0759
termdate: 2010-05-28
campsites: BC(13/04,5200m),ABC(19/04,6400m),C1(01/05,7000m),C2(22/05,7800m),C3(23/05,8300m),Smt(24/05)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  Summit: 24 May by Adolfsson and Tashi Sherpa at 7:59 am (NST).

  Team left C3 at 9:30 pm on 23rd May. It was snowing. Straightforward climb. He had to wait at the 2nd Step for about 50 minutes, but even though there was a queue, it was constantly moving. When they got to the summit, there were no views. He stayed for about 1 hour and waited for the clouds to lift.

  The team descended to C3, where they arrived at about 3:30 pm. They were intending to descend to C2, but all of sudden Tashi said that there was a problem and that they should stay. Much later Adolfsson realized that there was a problem with Hiroshi Ogasawara, the Japanese who died just outside C2.

  On 25th May Adolfsson, Tashi and Ogasawara's Sherpas descended to ABC, where they arrived at about 8 pm.

  Oxygen:
    Adolfsson from C2 to summit to Crampon Point at 6500m
    Tashi from C2 to summit to Crampon Point at 6500m

  Sherpa:
    Tashi Sherpa, Beding, Rolwaling, 18/4/79, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X1


expid: EVER10136
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Mexico
leaders: Ignacio Ananya
sponsor: La Ruta del Bicentenario (Monterosa Treks)
approach: Phakding->Namche->Pangboche->Pheriche->Lobuche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2010-04-12
smtdate: 2010-05-17
smttime: 1110
campsites: BC(12/04,5300m),C1(20/04,6100m),C2(01/05,6450m),C3(03/05,7100m),C4(15/05,7950m),Smt(17/05)
accidents: Ignacio Anaya & Gustavo Flores frostbite; Delgadillo suffered from chest pain
achievment: 1st person to top Everest from Tijuana (6th or 7th Mexican woman)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Anaya, Martinez and Ritemba started their summit bid from C4 at 10:45 pm on 16 May. They reached the summit at 11:10 am on 17 May. Martinez reached the summit ahead of Anaya maybe an hour, does not know exact time. They stayed on summit between 40-50 minutes. The team descended to C4 at 7:10 pm. Anaya realized at C4 that his feet and some fingers had frostbite. They spent the night there. On 18 May Martinez went down to C2. Anaya spent the night of 18 May at C3 and on 19 May all went down to BC. 

  Anaya returned to Kathmandu by helicopter from BC on 20 May. He had frostbite in left foot and minor frostbite in two right fingers. Martinez returned to Kathmandu on 24 May and all to leave on 26 May.

  Delgadillo spent the night of 26 April at C1. He suffered from chest pain. He was flown to Lukla from Pheriche on 30 April and same day to Kathmandu. He left Nepal on 21 May.

  Espinoza stayed at BC throughout the expedition.

  Flores turned up at C4 in the morning of 16 May. He had frostbite in all fingers except thumbs. He was sent down with Mingma; they spent a night at C3. They arrived BC on 18 May, then to Pheriche and to Lukla by helicopter and to Kathmandu on same day. He left Nepal on 21 May.

  Sherpas:
    Ritemba Sherpa, 8/5/70 (25/1/2027), Everest X1
    Mingma Temba Sherpa, 19/1/80 (5/10/2036), Yaphu-9, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1
      (Ritemba and Mingma are brothers)


expid: EVER10139
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Sweden
leaders: Pierre Nasman
sponsor: Mount Everest Time Capsule Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-04-13
smtdate: 2010-05-22
termdate: 2010-05-28
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to stomach bug
campsites: BC(13/04,5200m),ABC(18/04,6400m),C1(01/05,7000m),xxx(22/05,7400m)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  Nasman and Phurba Namgyal left C1 at 10 am (NST). When they reached 7400m at about 4 pm, Nasman was too tired to carry on to C2. He had not really been eating well and had been suffering from a stomach bug.

  Phurba Namgyal had told him that it would be another three hours to C2, so they sat down and discussed what to do. They decided to descend to C1 and abandon the expedition as Nasman had run out of steam. Nasman used oxygen to go down to C1, where they arrived at about 7 pm. On 23rd May, they descended to ABC.

  Oxygen:
    Nasman from 7400m to C1

  Sherpa:
    Phurba Namgyal, Beding, 7/2/86, Everest in 2007 & 2009, Cho Oyu X2


expid: EVER10141
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Duncan Chessell
sponsor: Everest Sea to Summit (Chessell Adventures)
countries: Canada, UK
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-04-24
smtdate: 2010-05-25
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2010-05-28
campsites: BC(24/04,5200m),ABC(02/05,6400m),C1(12/05,7000m),C2(23/05,7700m),C3(24/05,8200m),Smt(25/05)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Summit: 25 May all members, except Kwok and Jackson (and Sherpas as listed below) at 10 am (NST).

  Chessell, Agnew with Nima Kancha, Moriatry with Pasang, Nettleton with Damai Chhiri, North with Pemba, Sarah with Lhakpa, Warner with Ngima Gyalzen, Zaharias with Kusang Tenzing and Robert Jackson with Densa Bhote left C3 between 1 am and 2:30 am. The weather was reasonably calm at the beginning; however, when they got to the summit ridge, the wind ws blowing about 30 knots. Jackson reached the 1st Step at about 5:30 am; he was not feeling very strong and wanted to turn back. He and Densa Bhote descended to ABC the same day.

  Team was stuck behind the SummitClimb group, who did not let them pass. When they got to the snow slope about 3rd Step, a few Sherpas had to refix a few hundred meters of the fixed rope, which took about 20 minutes. Summit views were only towards the north and not towards the south, where it was cloudy. They spent about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to various camps. Chris Warner to ABC, Chessell, Sarah and Nettleton to C1 and the rest to C2. On 26th May everyone was back at ABC.

  Kwok reached 7500m on 15 May; he had a throat infection and decided to leave the expedition on 18 May.

  Chessell biked from Digha, West Bengal on the Indian Ocean all the way to Everest BC. He cycled 13 days in total with a break in Kathmandu for a few days.

  Oxygen:
    All members from 7200m to summit to C1
    Sherpas from C2 to summit to C2

  Summit Sherpas:
    Namgya Sherpa, Lelep-8, Taplejung, 11/8/71, Everest X7
    Dawa Chhiri, Phurte, Thami, 19/2/78, Everest X2, Lhotse X2
    Pasang (brother of Namgya), Lelep-8, Taplejung, 27/4/78, Kangch in 2008
    Doma Chhiri, Sikli, Jubing-9, 1984, Everest X4
    Pemba Sherpa, Lelep-8, Taplejung, 9/7/82, Cho Oyu in 2009
    Lhakpa, Zarok, Namche, Khumbu, 11/10/1978, Everest X4
    Kusang Tenzing, Ghunsa, Lelep, 16/5/86, Everest X2
    Ngima Gyalgen, Jubing-1, Solu, 22/04/1980, Everest in 2008
    Nima Kanchha, Namche-06, Khumbu, 20/04/1977, Everest X2

  Other Sherpas:
    Densa Bhote, Hungung, Farang, Makalu-Barun, 30/10/1981, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X1


expid: EVER10142
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Jochen Hemmleb
sponsor: Austrian-German Mt. Chomolungma Expedition 2010
countries: Germany
bcdate: 2010-04-09
smtdate: 2010-05-25
termdate: 2010-05-30
termnote: Abandoned at 8445m due to snow to deep to find 1924 body of Sandy Irvine
campsites: BC(09/04,5200m),ABC(18/04,6400m),C1(22/04,7100m),C2(02/05,7800m),C3(23/05,8250m),xxx(25/05,8445m)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  The purpose of the expedition was to find the body of Andrew Irvine, who disappeared high on Everest with George Mallory in June 1924. Hemmleb, who is an historian of climbs on Everest with special interest in the British 1924 expedition, knew exactly the area where his searchers on this team should find Irvine. In 2001 and 2008 he had met a Chinese climber, Xu Jing (Hsu Ching), in Beijing, and Xu said that he had seen an old body in a ditch (translation from the Chinese in 2001) or cave (2008 translation) along the North Ridge off the normal route and below the First Step, in the general area where an old ice axe had been found in 1933.

  Five of the team's six members, not counting the leader, were supposed to be the searchers, while the leader, Hemmleb, and Salmina stayed at C1 on the North Col, Hemmleb to direct the search above and Salmina, also staying at the Col, to watch through their cameras' powerful long lens and to take photos of anything notable. Several Sherpas, including two from the climbing team lead by Jamie McGuinness, were needed to carry the camera equipment to C1. Unfortunately, there was nothing to be photographed.

  The members who actually did any searching were Bachmair and Goeberl, who started looking for Irvine above C3 (8250m) on 25 May. They had two Sherpas with them, Pemba Kitar and Bal Bahadur Tamang. But two to three meters of old snow covered the search area; the men went up to 8445m and found nothing. Then Hemmleb decided to call off the search on the 26th because it would be impossible to detect a body under the deep snow cover, and the men had been too long at high altitude.

  Both Bachmair and Goeberl developed health problems. Goeberl's toes had become frostbitten at 8400m standing while waiting for Fritsche to fix his oxygen mask on 25 May. Bachmair developed a lung infection on 28 May during in C1 in his descent. Getting him down to BC at 10:30 pm involved his being carried down on men's backs, then on a stretcher and finally on his own feet; he was driven to Kathmandu on the 29th.

  Holzner had turned back at C2 on 23 May. He "was sick of Everest."

  Naglich had turned back from C3. The forecast was for poor weather and he had no motivation to continue.

  Fritsche's oxygen system suddenly failed when he was at 8400m on 25 May; he was trying to go up from C3 to the search area. He was without supplemental oxygen for 40 minutes. He descended to C2 that day and was in ABC the next day.

  All members and Sherpas used oxygen above C3 (some in C3) to their high points to C3.

  Hired:
    Pemba Kitar, 29/1/64, Sotang-6, Solu
    Bal Bahadur Tamang, 14/1/74, Terang-7, Rasuwa


expid: EVER10143
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Luigi Rampini
sponsor: Luigi Everest Expedition (Monterosa Treks)
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-04-08
smtdate: 2010-05-17
termdate: 2010-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to lost tent and supplies because of strong wind
campsites: BC(08/04,5200m),ABC(12/04,6400m),C1(07/05,7080m),C2(17/05,7700m),xxx(17/05,7700m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Rampini reached C2 on 17 May and spent 2 nights there due to strong wind. On 19 May the wind broke his tent and blew away with all the materials and food stuff. He descended to C1 in the night of 19 May and to ABC on 20 May. 

  He hired a local porter to carry his tent and 3 bottles of oxygen from ABC to C2. He lost his C1 tent too due to strong wind. Rampini returned to Kathmandu on 25 May and will leave on 3 June.


expid: EVER10144
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Zbigniew Bak
sponsor: Polish Everest Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-04-08
smtdate: 2010-05-18
smttime: 0645
termdate: 2010-05-24
campsites: BC(08/04,5200m),ABC(12/04,6400m),C1(28/04,7060m),C2(16/05,7650m),C3(17/05,8300m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Bak, Prask and Dawa satarted their summit push from C2 on 17 May at 8 am NST. They reached C3 at 2 pm and left C3 at 9 pm. They got to the summit at 6:45 am of 18 May. They stayed on summit for about 10 minutes and descended to C3 at 2 pm. They rested at C3 and left it at 4 pm to C2, where they spent the night. On 19th May down to ABC and to CBC on 20th May. 

  The team was the first one to reach to the top on that day. While descending the team met one climber from Taiwan with two Sherpas coming up about five meters below the summit. Other Taiwanese they met at 3rd Step with a broken crampon. No other climbers were on the summit push on that day. The summit day weather was very good, clear sky, no wind. 

  Budny spent a night at ABC on 12 April; that was his plan to go up [only] to ABC. He left BC on 14 April.

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 25 May. Bak to leave on 30th May; Prask to leave on 4 June.

  Sherpa:
    Dawa Sherpa, 20/4/1975, Makalu-5, 1st 8000er


expid: EVER10145
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Ron Hoglin
sponsor: Top Peaks Only
bcdate: 2010-04-16
smtdate: 2010-05-24
termdate: 2010-05-29
termnote: Abandoned at 8450m due to fatigue from climbing from C2
campsites: BC(16/04,5000m),ABC(21/04,6400m),C1(26/04,7000m),C2(22/05,7700m),xxx(24/05,8450m)
agency: Adventure Extreme
routememo:
  Hoglin was an independent climber, had no Sherpa helpers or oxygen supply, and made no C3.

  He made his summit bid from C2 at 7700m on 23 May at 6:40 pm (Chinese time). It snowed all that night, but he managed to climb up to 8450m at 2:30 am the next morning, the 24th. Then he decided that he was getting too tired to continue. He returned to C2 at 8:10 am and went on down to C1 the same day. He was back in ABC on the 25th and BC on the 26th.


expid: EVER10146
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Africa
leaders: Ronald Muhl
sponsor: 2010 Australian Everest Expedition
countries: Australia, New Zealand
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2010-04-09
smtdate: 2010-05-23
smttime: 0519
termdate: 2010-05-27
campsites: BC(09/04,5350m),C1(20/04,6100m),C2(21/04,6400m),C3(03/05,7200m),C4(22/05,8000m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Summit: 23 May by Wells, Lhakpa Gyalgen and Kami Rita Sherpa at 5:30 am, Robertson, Lhakpa Nuru, Bock, Mingma Nuru, Lhakpa Rangdu, Phurba at 9 am. 

  Summit: 24 May by Hoby, Jackson, Pemba Tenjing, Ngima Nuru at 8:30 am.

  23rd May Summit team and Ronnie Muhl left C4 at 8:30 pm on 22nd May. It was breezy and clear. Muhl reached 8200m at 11:30 pm. He turned back as he felt tired and it was not a good day for him. He descended to C4, where he arrived at 12:30 am. The rest of the team carried on. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit. Good views. Wells and Kami Rita descended to C2, where they arrived at 3 pm. The rest of the team descended to C4, where they arrived between 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. On 24th May they descended to C2 and on 25th May to BC.

  Hoby, Jackson, Ngima Nuru and Pemba Tenzing arrived at C4 at 1 pm and left for their summit push at 8:30 pm on 23rd May. It was very windy and it was snowing. Straightforward climb. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 1 pm. They spent the night there and descended to BC on 25th May. They left C4 at 8 am and reached BC at 8:30 pm.

  Cooke reached Namche Bazar at the beginning of the expedition. He had a viral infection and was helicoptered out from Syangboche on 5th April.

  Petousis reached C1 on 20th April. He felt altitude sickness and did not like the icefall and left the expedition on 27th April. 

  Surtees reached C2 on 21st April. He spent a few nights there. He did not like the climb and decided to leave the expedition on 1st May.

  Williams reached C3 on 28th April. He also did not like the climb and decided to leave the expedition on 1st May.

  Oxygen:
    All members from C3 to summit to C2
    Sherpas from C4 to summit to C4

  Sherpas:
    Kami Rita, Thami, Khumbu, 22/10/77, Everest X7
    Lhakpa Gyalgen (brother of Lhakpa Nuru), Mendes, Namche-7, Khumbu, 1st 8000er
    Lhakpa Nuru, Thami, Khumbu, 22/11/80, Everest X5
    Lhakpa Rangdu, Tala Kharka, Sotang-6, Solukhumbu, 18/11/67
    Mingma Nuru, Thami, Khumbu, 20/12/75
    Ngima Nuru, Tesho, Khumbu, 6/11/81, Everest X10, Cho Oyu X2
    Phurba Sherpa, Sotang-6, Solu, 17/7/1982, 1st 8000er summit
    Pemba Tenjing, Phurte, Namche-4, Khumbu, 2/2/1976, Everest X4


expid: EVER10147
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Michihiro Kadoya
sponsor: 2010 Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2010-04-29
smtdate: 2010-05-22
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2010-05-26
campsites: BC(29/04),C1(05/05,6100m),C2(06/05,6700m),C3(20/05,7300m),C4(21/05,7900m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  The two Japanese and Da Dendi left C4 for the summit at midnight of 21/22 May and reached the summit about 11:00 am on the 22nd. The members stayed in C4 that night, while Da Dendi went down to C2 that same day. The members were back in BC on the 23rd and Da Dendi joined them there on the 24th.

  The two Japanese began using oxygen in C2 for their summit push and continued on it all the way to the top, then to and in C4. Da Dendi was on it in C4, to the summit and to C4.

  Sherpa:
    Da Dendi Sherpa, 28/5/81, Saframa, Lokhim, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X3, Manaslu X1


expid: EVER10148
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Mike Roberts
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Everest 2010
countries: Ireland, S Africa, UK
bcdate: 2010-04-10
smtdate: 2010-05-22
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2010-05-25
campsites: BC(10/04,5350m),C1(19/04,6100m),C2(21/04,6500m),C3(01/05,7300m),C4(21/05,7900m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  The expedition succeeded in putting all four climbing members (base camp manager Blaikie never went above BC) and eight Sherpas on the top on a single day, 22 May.

  Hampson-Tindale, 62 years old, and four sherpas left C4 for the summit on the 21st at 9:00 pm while Haydock, Ramsden, Roberts and four more Sherpas left camp at 10:15 pm. They arrived at the summit on 22 May as follows:

  At 6:00 am - Haydock, Lhakpa Dorje and Dawa Jangbu.

  At 6:30 am - Hampson-Tindale, Sange Dorje, Temba Sherpa, Chuldim (known as Ang Dorje) and Sonam Tshering (known as Ang Sona).

  At 7:45am - Ramsden, Roberts, Pemba Chhoti and Pasang Bhote.

  All stayed in C4 that night. The first group on the top got back to camp at 10:00 am, the second group at noon, and the last group to the summit at 1:00 pm. All were down in C2 the next day and in BC on the 24th.

  Oxygen was used by all members except Hampson-Tindale in C3 to the top to, but not in C3. Hampson-Tindale used it in C3 to top to BC. The Sherpas used it in C4 to the top to and in C4.

  Summiting Sherpas:
    Chuldim (aka Ang Dorje), 26/11/63, Khumjung, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X6
    Dawa Jangbu Sherpa, Pangboche, 22/4/73, Pangboche, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X1
    Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa, 16/01/61, Sanam, Gudel-4, Solu, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X3, etc
    Pasang Bhote, 30/11/73, Chepuwa-1, Makalu, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1
    Pemba Chhoti Sherpa, 21/2/73, Thame, Everest X3
    Sange Dorje Sherpa, 14/4/78, Khumjung, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X2
    Sonam Tshering (Ang Sonam), 1/10/86, Khunde, Everest 24/5/08
    Temba Sherpa, 24/6/68, Khumjung, Everest X4

  Non-summiter:
    Lhakpa Bhote, 15/11/83 (9/7/2040), Hatiya-2, Makalu, no 8000ers (S Col cook)


expid: EVER10149
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Elia Saikaly
sponsor: Finding Life to Everest
bcdate: 2010-04-12
smtdate: 2010-05-22
smttime: 0620
termdate: 2010-05-25
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),C1(19/04,6100m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(07/05,7100m),C4(21/05,8000m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Mountain Tribes Trekking
routememo:
  Summit: on 22nd May by Saikaly, Dawa Tenzing at 6:20 am, Baldo, Pema and Namgyal at 8:30 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 10 pm on 21st May. It was snowing hard, but it was quite warm until they reached the Balcony. After that it turned cold and Baldo's valve kept on freezing. When he got to the Hillary Step he had troubles breathing. He initially wanted to turn back but kept on going to the summit. Saikaly and Dawa Tenzing were a bit quicker and reached the summit at 6:20 am. They stayed for about 15 minutes and on their way down they met Baldo, Pema Nuru and Namgyal, who had reached the summit at 8:30 am. They stayed about 10 minutes on the summit (Apa Sherpa was there with him).

  Saikaly reached C4 at about noon. Baldo kept on having breathing problems on the way down. He got to C4 at about 4 pm as he was very slow. When he reached C4 he called Ramon, the Argentinean doctor, who gave him Dexamethasone. He felt better and descended to BC the next day. He took oxygen all the way down to BC. They left about 10 am and reached BC at 5 pm.

  Oxygen:
    Saikaly from C3 to summit to C3
    Baldo from C3 to summit to BC
    All Sherpas from C4 to summit to C4

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Tenzing, Thamo, Khumbu, 21/3/86, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X2
    Namgyal Sherpa, Bung-9, Solu, 25/9/71, Everest X1, Kangchenjunga X1
    Pema Nuru Sherpa, 27/1/75 (14/10/2030), Paiya, Jubing-7, Solu


expid: EVER10150
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Jamie McGuinness
sponsor: Project Himalaya Everest 2010
countries: Mexico, S Africa, USA
bcdate: 2010-04-16
smtdate: 2010-05-23
smttime: 0330
termdate: 2010-06-07
campsites: BC(16/04,5150m),ABC(22/04,6350m),C1(05/05,7000m),C2(21/05,7700m),C3(22/05,8300m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  Summit: 23 May by Cohen and Nima Grimen at 3:30 am and Pasang Kaji and Kapitulik at 4 am.

  Summit team left 7:45 pm on 22nd May. The reason why they left so early was that they wanted to the first ones on the summit to beat the crowds. They summited at 3:30 am and 4 am. It was still dark when they arrived. Cohen and Nima Grimen stayed for about 10 minutes on the summit and did not get views. Pasang Kaji and Kapitulik stayed until sunrise to enjoy the view. Cohen and Kapitulik descended to C1, where they arrived at about 5 pm and Nima Grimen and Pasang Kaji descended to ABC, where they arrived at 7 pm. The next day everybody descended to BC.

  Davalos reached 6500m on 26th April. He was suffering from a bad cough and had breathing problems. He was not up to the climb, so he decided to stop climbing. He stayed at ABC for the rest of the expedition with a few trips to C1.

  Cohen, Kapitulik and Davalos left BC on 25th BC.

  McGuinness reached C2 on 23rd May and stayed for two nights. The reason he was not going on to the summit with Cohen and Kapitulik was that they had two good climbing Sherpas and they only had two tents at C3, so he thought it was better not to go. Another reason for not going with his clients was that they were keen to summit at midnight and McGuinness wanted good views from the summit for a good panoramic photo. He waited at C2 for two nights for the weather to improve, however, the winds did not abate. He descended to ABC on 25th May. On 27th he left ABC to go to BC and on 28th he went all the way to Zangmu to recover from dysentery. He returned to BC on 29th and ascended to North Col on 4th June to pick up some stored gear, including oxygen bottles. McGuinness went back to BC to see whether the weather would improve so he could summit and to clear the oxygen on the mountain. However, as the weather did not improve, he left BC on 7th June.

  Oxygen:
    Cohen and Sherpas from C2 to summit to C2
    Kapitulik from C2 to summit to North Col
    McGuinness slept on oxygen at C2, but did not climb on it

  Sherpas:
    Nima Grimen, Gudel-5, Solu, 31/5/1982
    Pasang Kaji, Dogre, Sotang-6, Solu, 24/2/81, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X1, Manaslu X1


expid: EVER10151
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: N Face (Japanese & Hornbein Couloirs) (to 6750m)
route2: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Ralf Dujmovits
sponsor: Everest North Face Expedition
countries: Austria
bcdate: 2010-04-09
smtdate: 2010-05-24
smttime: 1220
termdate: 2010-05-26
campsites: BC(09/04,5200m),ABC(12/04,5550m),(series of Bivs),Smt(24/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  The team's goals were to scale Everest without Sherpa support and without bottled oxygen up the North Face via the Japanese Couloir and the Hornbein Couloir. In the end one member reached the summit by a different route, the normal North Col route.

  They arrived at the normal BC site (5200m) on 9 April and made ABC at 5500m on the 12th. This was their only fixed camp above base: from here on up, they had only a series of bivouacs.

  On 18th April bivouacked at 5800m just below the bottom of the North Face to launch their reconnaissance of conditions on the face and acclimatize. They moved up the face, bivouacking at 6200m the next day and at 6450m on the 20th. A lot of wind-driven snow was coming down the couloirs, and on 21 April they moved back to ABC.

  They returned to their 6200m bivouac site on the 26th to acclimatize further. The next day they planned to go up to the North Col, but strong wind stopped them at 6750m in their diagonal traverse to the Col. They did succeed in getting to the higher end of the Col at 7100m on 28 April, and continuing their acclimatization, they went up the normal climbing route to their next bivouac at 7600m on the 29th. They stayed here two nights, then descended on 1 May to ABC.

  Now they were struck by bad weather. It was cold (minus 35 degrees Celsius at the summit) and very wind (blowing at 140 km/hr) and again had to stay there. Finally on 15 May they were able to return to 6200m. On the 16th they encountered blue ice 300m higher and retreated again to ABC.

  Wind blowing down the couloirs was creating such thick spindthrift that they had difficulty breathing. The only rope they had with them was just 50 meters long, which required them to change over in relays, and this was very time-consuming on fresh snow atop blue ice. They calculated that they would need 20 more bivouacs above, but there were no places to put them, and the spells of good weather would not last long enough in any case. On the morning of 17 May they decided to abandon all efforts to scale the couloirs and instead climb the normal route.

  They moved once again to 6200m on 19 June and on the 20th across icy slopes to the North Col, where they bivouaced for two nights. They climbed on the 22nd to 7600m and on the 23rd they bivouacked at 8200m, where conventional teams had their C3.

  24 May was the day for their summit push. But Dujmovits throat was badly congested and he had little sleep at night, was falling asleep as he was climbing. So he stayed in their last bivouac while Kaltenbrunner left at 3:50 am (NST) on 24 May for the top alone. Snow was falling and it was dark. At the 1st Step she saw Abele Blanc and Marco Camandona and caught up with them, and above the 2nd Step she caught up with the two Italians' leader Silvio Mondinelli and others. They went to the summit together at 12:20 pm in light snowfall, light wind and not very cold temperatures.

  "The highest point on earth, it was incredible, I was so happy," Kaltenbrunner said about her success on her thirteenth 8000m summit. She had made the climb entirely without artificial oxygen and stayed on the top for 35 minutes also without it.

  She returned to their 8200m bivouac and Dujmovits and she went all the way down, at 9:00 pm, to the site of ABC for climbers on the normal route in clear weather. The next day they went to their original ABC to pack it up, left it on the 26th and got back to Kathmandu on the 27th.

  Kaltenbrunner's final eight-thousander: K2, the second highest point on earth, in July-August, according to her plan.


expid: EVER10152
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: S Africa
leaders: Sean Disney
sponsor: South Africans on Everest (Adventure Dynamics)
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-04-10
smtdate: 2010-05-24
smttime: 0738
termdate: 2010-05-28
campsites: BC(12/04,5200m),ABC(18/04,6400m),C1(01/05,7200m),C2(22/05,7700m),C3(23/05,8300m),Smt(24/05)
accidents: Swart had frostbite and snowblindness
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  Summit on 24 May by Metz, Disney, Nima Gyalzen and Nima Nurbu at 7:38 am: de la Harpe and Karma Gyalzen at 8:15 am; Swart and Pemba Rinjin at 8:25 am; Engelbrecht and Ang Kaji at 8:30 am; Marseden, Ang Dorje and Sonam Bhote at 8:35 am.

  Summit team left C3 at 11 pm. It was cloudy and it was snowing, but it was warm and not windy. They spent about 25 minutes on the summit. No views from the summit. Metz descended to ABC where he arrived at 6:30 pm; Disney and De la Harpe descended to C1, where they arrived at 6:30 pm and the rest of the team descended to C2, where they arrived at 7 pm. On 25th May they all descended to ABC.

  Grove reached 6400m on 18 April. Due to respiratory problems he abandoned the expedition and did not go further. He left the expedition on 2nd May.

  O'Connor reached 7700m (C2) on 22nd May during the summit push. He was moving too slowly the day before, so he spent the night at C2 and decided to descend the next day. He left C2 at 1:30 pm and reached ABC at about 6 pm.

  Injuries:

  Swart got frostbite on both his hands. He thinks he got it on the way down from C3 to C2. He noticed it in his tent at C2. he tried to warm his hands. Dr Torie Goodman treated Swart and thought that he could keep his fingers.

  Oxygen:
    All members used oxygen from C1 to summit to C1
    Sherpas from C2 to summit to C2

  Sherpas:
    Ang Kaji Sherpa, Kharikhola, 21/8/84, Everest X3
    Nima Gyalzen, Ghat, Solu, 31/8/86, Everest X4
    Nima Nurbu, Thamiteng (monk), 20/2/80, Everest and Cho Oyu
    Pemba Rinjin, Makalu, 1/1/65, Everest xX4
    Dorchi, Makalu-Barun, 01/12/79, Lhotse X2, Makalu X2 
    Sonam Bhote, Ghunsa, Taplejung, 13/12/81, Everest X1
    Karma Gyalgen, Kharikhola, 07/01/84, Everest X2


expid: EVER10153
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Karl Kobler
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Everest Expedition 2010
countries: Austria, Germany, Mexico
bcdate: 2010-04-12
smtdate: 2010-05-24
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2010-05-27
campsites: BC(12/04,5010m),ABC(18/04,5630m),C1(22/04,7000m),C2(22/04,7500m),C3(23/05,8300m),Smt(24/05)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C2 at 7500m (C2 moved to 7700m on 22 May).

  The team placed C2 at 7500m originally (on 23 April), but it was moved on 22nd May 200m higher and thus closer to C3's site at 8300m.

  All members except Kobler and Rittler were in the summit party. Kobler was not because a Sherpa had fumbled with his backpack at C2 and it fell from there to the bottom of North Face; it had contained his down suit. Rittler had already left the team on 20th April; he had not been well, and got to only ABC on the 18th.

  The summit party of six members and seven Sherpas left C3 for the top on the 23rd at 9:30 pm (NST) and reached the summit on 24th May at 6:00 am (by Huesser), 6:14 (by Contreras and Gonzalez), and 6:35 (by the other members). It was snowing constantly but warm from C3 to the summit, then it stopped snowing but was cloudy and slightly windy.

  All members except Contreras and Gonzalez descended to C1 that day; Contreras, Gonzalez and all Sherpas except Tenji continued down to ABC. The rest of the party went to ABC the next day.

  Oxygen was used by all summit-party members except Huesser and Blauensteiner from C2 (at 7700m) to the top to C2. Huesser used it from C3 to the top to C3; Blauensteiner from C1 to the top to C1. The Sherpas used it from C3 to the top to C3.

  Sherpas:
    Mitenjen Sherpa, 30/7/67, Nurbugaon, Makalu-5, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1
    Ngata/Nada, 2/2/76 (19/10/2032), Ghunsa, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X2, Kangch X2
    Pasang Gyaljen/Gelji, 4/7/67 (20/3/2024), Walung, Makalu-9, Everest X1, 
      Cho Oyu X1
    Pemba Norbu, 6/12/78, Ghunsa, Lelep-9, Taplejung, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2
    Phurba Temba, 2/5/68, Yilajung, Namche-9, Everest X2, Manaslu X1
    Tenji Sherpa, 16/4/81 (4/1/2038), Tapting-7, Solu
    Wangchu Sherpa, 2/2/78, Taksindu-3, Solu, Everest X3


expid: EVER10154
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Phil Crampton
sponsor: Altitude Junkies Everest Expedition 2010
countries: Australia, France, Finland, USA
bcdate: 2010-03-24
smtdate: 2010-05-23
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2010-05-26
agency: High Altitude Dreams
campsites:
  BC.Ldr(24/03,5350m),BC(08/04,5350m,C1(15/04,6000m),C2(16/04,6400m),C3(24/04,7150m),C4(22/05,7950m),Smt(23/05)

routememo:
  All members except Einolander, the video editor confined to BC, left for the top from C4 between 8:30 and 9:30 pm on 22 May. Two members turned back:

  Herbert got to 8700m developed cerebral edema at 9:30 am on the 23rd, was escorted down by his Sherpa Dorje and Phil Crampton to C4 that day, to C2 on the 24th, and picked up from C2 on the 25th by a helicopter which flew him to Kathmandu. He was diagnosed as suffering from edema, hypoxia and complete exhaustion. He left Nepal on 4 June.

  Watroba reached the South Summit with Lhakpa Tshering and Temba Bhote at 11:00 am on 23 May. She decided it was too late for her to get to the top and return safely, and weather conditions were deteriorating with cloud cover developing. The three returned to C4 at 5:00 pm.

  The first to reach the summit were Crampton and Pasang Nima, who got there at 7:00 am on 23 May. Justinen and Chhedar summited at 8:12 am, Hyrylainen, Stuckley, Pasang Wangchu and Nima Nuru at 8:15 am; and Gernez and Pasang Dawa finally at 10:00 am. All summiters returned to C4 for the night, arriving there between 12 noon to 6:00 pm. It was Crampton who came in last because he had been helping to get Herbert into camp.

  Oxygen was used by all members from C3 to their high points to C2, and by all Sherpas from C3 to high points to C3.

  Sherpas:
    Cheddar, 19/12/63, Sisuwa-9, Makalu, Everest X3
    Dorje Sherpa, 1965 (2022), Taksindu-3, Solu
    Nima Nuru, 19/6/67, Choplung, Chaurikharka-3, Solu, Everest X1
    Pasang Dawa, 26/5/87, Sengma, Khumbu, Everest X1
    Pasang Nima, 28/1/74, Chaurikharka village, Solu
    Pasang Wangchu, 25/4/87, Cheremy, Bung-9, Solu, Everest X1
    Temba Bhote, 5/12/73 (20/8/2030), Hatiya-3, Makalu


expid: EVER10155
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Patrick Hollingworth
sponsor: Patrick Hollingworth Everest Expedition
approach: Phakding->Namche->Debuche->Dingboche->Lobuche
bcdate: 2010-04-09
smtdate: 2010-05-17
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2010-05-20
campsites: BC(09/04,5350m),C1(14/04,6100m),C2(15/04,6500m),C3(26/04,7150m),C4(15/05,7950m),Smt(17/5)
agency: Himalayan Ascent (Windhorse pmt)
routememo:
  Hollingworth, Lhakpa, Joshi, Ang Kazi and Jangbu left C4 at 9 pm on 16 May. The team reached to the top at 10 am on 17 May and stayed on summit for one hour. The team descended to C4 at 6 pm, spent night there. On 18th May they descended to C2, and Ang Kazi and Jangbu on to BC. On 19 May Hollingworth, Lhakpa and Joshi descended to BC. The summit day weather was relatively warm. While descending around midday there was a white-out. Ahead of Hollingworth team there were more than 30 climbers.

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 23 May and will leave on 29 May.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Sherpa, 25/7/1968, Tamku-9, Sankhuwasabha, Cho Oyu X2
    Ang Kazi, 11/5/78, Sisuwakhola, Makalu VDC, Everest X2, Manaslu X1
    Jangbu, 20/07/87, Chitre, Sisuwakhola-9, Makalu VDC
    Sumit Joshi, Katari-4, Udayapur/Bansbari, Maharajgunj-3 (lives in Australia)


expid: EVER10156
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Pushkar Shah
sponsor: Peace Expedition 2010 to Everest
bcdate: 2010-04-21
smtdate: 2010-05-17
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2010-05-23
campsites: BC(21/04,5300m),C1(28/04,6100m),C2(29/04,6400m),C3(13/05,7200m),C4(14/05,7900m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Sita Chuchura Treks
routememo:
  Approach: Jiri, Sivalaya, Kenja, Dudh Koshi, Kharikhola, Lukla, Phakding, Namche, Tengboche, Dingboche, Lobuche on his bicycle.

  Shah, Bhimsen, Dawa, Mingma and Endra left C4 at 9:15 pm on 16 May. Endra turned around from Hillary Step due to exhaustion; rest of the climbers reached to the top at 10:30 am on 17th May. They stayed on summit for 45 minutes and descended to C4, Sherpas arrived between 5-6 pm. Shah himself arrived at 7 pm. On 18 May down to C2; they spent night there. Next day to BC. The summit day weather way up was good. Soft snowfall started while they were on summit and all the way down to C4. The team returned to Kathmandu on 26 May.

  Shah had cycling tour of 150 countries.

  Hired:
    Dawa Finchok Sherpa, 16/7/82, Lamabagar-3, Dolakha, Dhaulagiri X1
    Mingma Tenzi Sherpa, 7/11/84, Yaphu-9, Dhaulagiri I X1, Everest X1, Lhotse X1, 
      Makalu X1
    Bhimsen Shaha Thakuri, 3/6/77 (21/2/2029), Makaibari-5, Dolakha
    Endra Bahadur Rai, 17/07/75, Belsot, Tribeni, Udayapur, Everest X1


expid: EVER10157
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Kenton Cool
sponsor: Dream Guides Everest 2010
countries: Australia, USA
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2010-04-14
smtdate: 2010-05-17
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2010-05-22
campsites: BC(14/04,5300m),C1(20/04,6000m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(15/05,7300m),C4(16/05,8000m),Smt(17/05)
accidents: Fall at Hillary Step by Norris
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Summit: 17th May by Cool & Dorje Gyalzen at 6:30 am, Claytor & Chewang Dorje at 9:30 am, Thurmer & Lhakpa at 10 am, Norris & Lhakpa Wangchu at 10:15 am.

  Summit team left C4 on 16th May at 9 pm. Cool was in front as he and Dorje Gyalzen were breaking trail for the rest of the team. The weather was clear and slightly windy. Everyone spent about 20 minutes on the summit. On the way down, Bonita Norris, who had become the youngest British woman to summit Everest, slipped at the Hillary Step and hurt her neck, which slowed her down.

  She was helped down initially by her Sherpa Lhakpa Wangchu and then by Rick Thurmer and Lhakpa Sherpa. Kenton sent six Sherpas back up, met Norris below the Balcony. They helped her down to the South Col, where they arrived at 2:30 am on 18th May. Cool thinks that there were no lasting problems following Norris injuries.

  After the summit, the team descended to C4, where they arrived between 9 am and 2 pm. The next day they descended to C2 and on 19th May they descended to BC.

  Gallaway reached 5700m on 20th April. He left the expedition early as he was suffering from Cheyne-Stoke breathing and could not sleep at night.

  Trott reached C3 on 15th May. She did not continue her summit bid as she was too slow and found the ascent from C2 to C3 too difficult.

  Oxygen:
    Cool from C3 to summit
    Norris from C3 to summit to BC
    All other members from C3 to summit to C3
    Sherpas from C4 to summit to C4

  Sherpas:
    Chewang Dorje, Pangboche, Khumbu, 17/4/81, Everest X3
    Dorje Gyalzen, Pangboche, Khumbu, 16/7/82, Everest X4, Manaslu X1
    Lhakpa Sherpa, Kerung-3, Solukhumbu, 1977, 1st 8000er
    Lhakpa Wangchu, Pangboche, Khumbu, 23/10/86
      Everest X4 (summited again with Casserley on 25/5/2010)

  According to Himalayan Guides, these two Sherpas also summited with Cool. Waiting for confirmation from Kenton Cool

    Pemba Dorje, Pangboche, 36 yrs old, Everest with Todd in 2008
      (summited with Saunders on 17 May)
    Tapchen Lama, Hatiya-3, Makalu-Barun, 28/08/1979, Everest in 2006
      (unconfirmed, but summit recognized by Ministry for 25 May, with Casserley?)


  Bonita Norris' Account on her Website, posted on 21st May 2010 
    http://www.bonitanorris.com/pages/blog.htm

  The descent started smoothly, we got stuck behind some climbers literally sleeping on the path. People felt like they had done the job and now could rest- we were very aware that safety and relaxation only comes when you are back safety at camp 4.

  The Hillary step was busy- it was my turn to descend a short rock step; I did the normal - clipped in, took hold of the rope, and as best as I could - walked down the section of ice and rock. This is where my crampon must have slipped. The rope, which was anchored behind me, pulled me backwards and the next thing I knew I was face in some snow.

  At the time I felt fine - I was still on the path! Not in Tibet somewhere without a visa! 20 minutes later though, my neck and shoulders had seized up to such a point that I took one last step and a shooting pain went up my spine - it was so painful I yelped and Lhakpa stopped. He saw I was crying - but this time with pain. It was then I realised something was wrong - I must have pulled a muscle in my neck, maybe whiplash. I didn't know what it was, but moving was excruciating. We were in trouble.

  About an hour later and only a couple of hundred feet in distance made, Lhakpa and I stood back on the south summit in a total white out. Here I radioed Kenton and told him the situation - I had done something to my neck, I had plenty of oxygen but was going far too slow. I didn't think I could make it without extra help.

  Kenton got into action straight away. Thankfully he was back at C4 with the Sherpas and organised a "rescue" alongside Henry and Kami at base camp. As the sun set the first Sherpa came to greet us with more oxygen.

  Finally, about an hour below the balcony, another group of Sherpas arrived, from here on I don't remember much - apart from the pain of being dragged across ice and rock as the attempted to get me back to Camp 4 as quickly as possible. My neck was blinding with pain, but I remember having conversations with the Sherpas and thinking I felt OK bar the neck - I knew if I just let them do the job we would all be home safe.

  Before I knew it Kenton's headlight was glaring into my face, he had marched up the face again to ensure I was doing OK, and had bought others with him - including doctor from another team, just in case. After that I remember being at camp pretty quickly - hot tea being poured down my throat and down jackets and sleeping bags shoved onto me. Kenton and the team warmed me up - they were dreading to see my feet, thinking I might have frost damage. Thankfully all digits were in order, and I was passed out asleep from a 28-hour ascent of Everest as they sorted me into my spot in the tent.

  After that - all is blank. Sleep overwhelmed me like nothing before. I was safe, we were all safe. The warmth of the tent was intoxicating. I must have snored so loudly. I owe Kenton, the Sherpas and the rest of the team my life.


  Kenton Cool's account from his website posted on 20th May 2010
    http://dream-guides.blogspot.com/2010/05/kathmandu.html

  Well were to start? It's been a truly amazing 7 days here at Everest, we have seen summits and a wee rescue as well. The most important thing is that the team is all down at BC again safe and sound with 4 summits for the western climbers and 4 for the Sherpa's as well.

  The team got to the top on the morning of May 17th, we all summited at different times. Kenton was the first to the top after breaking trail in deep snow from the balcony with Dorje. He was followed by Tom Claytor, then Rick Thurma and finally Bonita Norris at approx 10:30 am.

  It was a great day for summits with great views and little wind, a perfect summit day!!

  The only hiccup of the day came when Bonita slipped on the way down and hurt her back and neck. This slowed her descent up and in the end I (Kenton) and a Sherpa team had to lower her down the final slopes from the Balcony to the South Col. The team finally all got back to the South Col camp at 2 am after a pretty epic but ultimate safe descent from the top of the world.

  We are all now at BC with part of the team flying back to Kathmandu tomorrow via Chopper while the other half will help break down base camp and probably depart in a few days

  I'll write a full report when I have longer than just 5 mins to myself.

  Until then thanks to everyone

  Kenton and the Everest Team


  Article in The Observer 23rd May 2010 by Jamie Doward
    http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2010/may/23/bonita-norris-everest-mountaineering

  It was an act of physical courage and daring that made headlines, but dramatic new details of last week's successful attempt by a 22-year-old to become the youngest British woman to climb Everest reveal that it nearly ended in tragedy.

  First reports had suggested Bonita Norris, who climbed the world's highest peak on Monday, had suffered only a minor back injury during her descent. But the Observer has learned that Norris, a media studies graduate from Berkshire, could have died but for the efforts of the Sherpas and her support team, who carried her part of the way down the mountain after she temporarily lost the use of her legs in the "death zone."

  Few live to tell the tale of an incapacitating injury in the infamous stretch which starts at about 7500m above sea level and carries its dark nickname because no one can survive there for more than a few hours.

  "It was a huge day, not something I would want to do again," said Kenton Cool, the 36-year-old professional mountaineer whose climbing company helped Norris achieve her dream. "I do everything in my power to make sure people come back safe, but there is no such thing as a risk-free climb. I have lost an unbelievable amount of weight, my voice has almost gone, the feeling in the ends of my fingers suggest I have the early stages of frostbite. It's taken its toll on my body and it will take Bonita a little while to recover."

  The drama had started the previous day when, having achieved a near-textbook ascent and in high spirits, Norris slipped while coming down the mountain, sustaining whiplash.

  Unable to move, her legs quickly became frozen and she could not feel her toes – the first signs of frostbite. After several hours her Sherpa, Lhakpa, informed her support team via a radio link that her condition had become a major cause for concern and he feared she would be unable to come down from the mountain on her own. Extra Sherpas were sent up the mountain with oxygen, medical equipment, food and hot drinks as the support team farther down waited for further information.

  Cool decided to follow the Sherpas up the mountain escorted by a Maltese doctor, Greg Attard, despite the pair of them having descended from the summit only hours before. Around midnight – 12 hours after Norris's ascent – Cool found her. "I'm so sorry for causing you trouble," said Norris. "I slipped on my way down, it was really stupid of me."

  Cool said: "It was a shocking situation. She was lucid but semi-conscious. She recognised me straight away; that was amazing given how long she had been at altitude. But my initial reaction when I saw the way the Sherpas were banging her legs and giving her hot water was, 'Oh my God, she has severe frostbite'."

  He feared Norris might have some sort of respiratory problem caused by being at altitude for too long. "We sat her up, stripped her top off, cut a bit from her thermals," he said. "It was medicine on the edge." Attard injected 15 mgs of the steroid dexamethasone into her arm. "I'm so glad Greg was there," Cool said. "I've injected oranges in practice but never injected somebody for real in the dark at -20C, 8250m above sea level in the snow. It bloody well worked and got her on her feet."

  Lhakpa and another Sherpa, Dorje, had previously lowered Norris down a line of rope attached to the mountain from a section at 8,500m known as "the balcony." In the process they lost radio contact with the support team for around five hours as they descended a stretch of Everest close to the Tibetan-Chinese border.

  "They had bound her up, tied her legs together and lowered her down by her climbing harness because she was unable to walk," Cool said. "This is one of the most harrowing things I've experienced, but the one good thing was the emergency procedures worked really well. The Sherpas and support team were fantastic. It was a pretty precarious situation. One simple slip and they could have all been down the line. The Sherpas were laying everything on the line to get her back down."

  Norris could not be lowered further over the rough terrain that followed. Cool, whose voice was so hoarse from his efforts he had difficulty talking to the Observer, descended the mountain to fetch a sledge to drag her down. However, by the time he had returned, the injection had kicked in and Norris was able to move, albeit slowly and supported by Cool and the Sherpas.

  When Cool was able to examine Norris's toes in a tent farther down the mountain, he was relieved. "She's got some mild frostbite on two of her toes but when I first saw her I thought she was going to lose all her toes," he said. Norris was said to be in good spirits and had managed to drink a beer with some of her rescuers since returning to base camp.

  It was the end to an epic 48 hours on the world's highest mountain, much of it spent outside a tent and in the death zone. While the story is likely to raise the telegenic Norris's profile further when she returns to the UK some time in the next fortnight, after treatment in hospital, it is bound to reignite the debate about the merits of allowing relatively inexperienced climbers on Everest. About 60 people were climbing Everest the day Norris reached the summit. This weekend about 140 people are expected to attempt the climb.

  Cool was at pains to stress Norris was not a novice, having trained in the Alps and climbed Mount Manaslu in Nepal four months ago. But he conceded Everest was a "honeypot". "People flock here because it's easy to get sponsorship, kudos, recognition from peers," he said. "You do see more and more people here on Everest who I believe shouldn't be here. There are people here who have never worn crampons or a harness and think you can just spend thousands of dollars and that's it, but Bonita was not one of these people."

  Cool, who broke his own British record last week when he completed his eighth ascent of Everest, said the mountain's fame may have saved Norris's life. "It's a very safe mountain because the commercial teams here have the experience and the manpower to cope with emergencies so that a simple slip doesn't manifest itself in disaster."

  "But if it had happened on a really small mountain, perhaps she wouldn't be alive. I have lost 36 friends but not one on Everest."


expid: EVER10158
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Rob Casserley
sponsor: ICE 8000 Everest Expedition 2010
countries: Germany, Hungary, USA
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2010-04-10
smtdate: 2010-05-17
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2010-05-28
campsites: BC(10/04,5350m),C1(17/04,6100m),C2(22/04,6400m),C3(15/05,7100m),C4(16/05,8000m),Smt(17/05)
accidents: Tracheitis by Anita Ugyan
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Summit 17 May: Kobold, Ugyan, Casserley, Lhakpa Thundu, Tshering Namgyal at 6 am

  Summit 25 May: Richard Birrer II (5:30 am), Richard Birrer (6 am), Brandon Chalk (6:15 am), Kristine Chalk (7 am), James Stearns (6:15 am), Rob Casserley again from BC (8 am), Ramsden (8 am), Pasang Dawa (5:30 am), Lhakpa Tundu again from BC (6 am), Kalzang Dorje (6:15 am), Dorje Gyalzen (7 am), Chayang Jangbu Bhote (6:15 am), Lhakpa Wangchu again from BC (8 am), Tshering Namgyal again from BC (8 am).

  17th summit team left C4 at 9 pm on 16th May. Weather was clear and calm. The route was very busy. Straightforward climb. Good views. Group spent about half an hour on the summit. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 11 am and rested for an hour and carried on to C2. Kobold arrived at 5 pm: Ugyan and Casserley arrived at 8 pm.

  Ugyan was having troubles breathing at the bottom of the Lhotse Face, where Casserley had met her. She seemed to have tracheitis and at about 11 pm in C4, she had the feeling that she would suffocate. She told her husband Mike Kobold and all of a sudden, she collapsed and turned blue. Casserley fought for her life and with advice from Monica Piris (Russell's doctor), who he talked to over the radio; she came around and seemed Ok. Casserley gave her IV fluids and she was able to sleep. The next day, they all descended to BC. Kobold and Ugyan stayed for another couple of days at BC and then walked to Pheriche and flew back to Kathmandu.

  25th summit team left C4 at 11:30 pm on 24th May. Weather was clear and it was not very busy on the route. Straightforward climb. Good views from the summit. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at 3 pm - apart from Ramsden and Casserley, who arrived at 6:30 pm.

  Feldman reached C1 on 20th April. On his second trip to C1 he fell into a pool of water in the Khumbu icefall, which put him off the climb. He left the expedition on 25th April.

  Todd stayed at Base Camp to orchestrate the expedition. He never intended to climb the mountain. 

  Oxygen:
    All members from C3 to summit to C2, apart from Ugyan
    Ugyan from C4 to summit to C2
    Sherpas from C4 to summit to C4

  Summit Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Tundu, Pangboche, 20/5/70, Everest X7, Anna I X1, Cho Oyu X1, Manaslu X1
    Tshering Namgyal, Pangboche, 14/5/84, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X1
    Pasang Dawa, Pangboche, 18/01/77, Everest X11, Cho Oyu X5, Lhotse X1, Manaslu X1
    Kalzang Dorje, Pangboche, 23/7/81, Everest X2
    Dorje Gyalzen, Pangboche, 16/7/82, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X1, Manaslu X1
    Chayang Jangbu Bhote, Hatiya-1, Makalu-Barun, 28/9/79, Everest X2
    Lhakpa Wangchu, Pangboche, 23/10/86, Everest X4, Manaslu X4, 
      Everest 17/5/10 with Kenton Cool's team
    Lhakpa Tshering, Pangboche, Everest 1st time


expid: EVER10159
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Robert Anderson
sponsor: Jagged Globe Everest Expedition 2010
countries: Canada, Norway, USA
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2010-04-14
smtdate: 2010-05-17
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2010-05-23
campsites: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(20/04,6100m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(28/04,7100m),C4(16/05,8000m),Smt(17,23/05)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  Summit: 17 May: by Finlayson F & R, Rasmussen, Ruddle, Mingma Tsiri, Sherap, Dawa Tashi, Pema Tshering at 10:30 am

  Summit 23 May: by Anderson, Ralph, Phethean, Mingma Tshering, Pema Chhiring, Dawa Gyalzen at 7 am.

  17th May summit team left C4 at 9:30 am on 16th May. The wind had dropped at about 8:30 am but it had started snowing. Massive queues just below South Summit. Good views from the summit into Nepal, but not into Tibet. Team stayed about an hour on summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at about 5:30 pm.

  On 18th they descended to C2 and on 19th May to BC.

  23rd May summit team and Anson left C4 at 8 pm on 22nd May. Weather was clear and calm. Anson reached about 8400m just below the Balcony. He did not feel well and turned back to C4, where he rested for a while before continuing down to C2. The rest had a straightforward climb. Good views from the summit. They spent about one hour on top. The whole team descended to C4, where they arrived at about 11 am. On 24th May they descended to C2 and on 25th May to BC.

  Jakobszyk reached C3 on 28th April. He spent one night at C3, however, he found that the climb was too exhausting for him and abandoned the expedition.

  Oxygen:
    All members from C3 to summit to C3
    All Sherpas except Pema Chhiring, from C4 to summit to C4
    Pema Chhiring summited without oxygen

  Summit Sherpas
    Mingma Tsiri, Beding, Rolwaling, 1/8/70, Everest X14, Dhaula I X1, Cho Oyu X3
    Serap, Taktar, Beni-3, Solukhumbu, 8/8/72, Everest X4
    Pema Tshering, Chankhu, Dolakha, 16/12/80
    Mingma Tshering, Beding, Rolwaling, 26/9/82, Everest X2
    Pema Chhiring, Beding, Dolakha, 17/12/83, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X3, etc.
    Dawa Galje/Gyalzen, Beding, Dolakha, 14/3/80, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X1
    Dawa Tashi, Beding, Dolakha, 18/04/87, 1st 8000er


expid: EVER10160
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Ang Chhiring Sherpa
sponsor: Seven Summits Expedition 2010
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2010-04-29
smtdate: 2010-05-23
smttime: 0940
termdate: 2010-05-26
campsites: BC(29/04,5400m),C1(03/05,6100m),C2(04/05,6500m),C3(15/05,7300m),C4(16/05,7950m),Smt(23/05)
accidents: Snowblinded at South Col on 16 May
achievment: Seven summit within 42 days
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  Ang Tseri on his first summit push with Ang Ngima reached the South Col on 16 May. Ang Tseri suffered from snowblindness and descended to BC on 18 May. 

  Second summit push started from BC on 20 May to C2; on 21 May to C3 and on 22nd May Ang Tseri and Nima Thenduk reached South Col. Both started from South Col at 9 pm on 22nd May. They got to the top at 9:40 am on 23 May, stayed on summit about 40 minutes. Both descended to C4 at 5:30 pm and spent the night at South Col. Ang Tseri and Nima Thenduk had to wait for 4-5 hours at the Balcony due to rescue work going on way down. The weather on summit day was a little windy and a little snowfall until the Balcony. Ang Tseri said that there were 130 climbers on summit day and ahead of him on summit were about 80 climbers. They descended to BC on 24 May. 

  Ang Tseri returned to Kathmandu on 27 May and will leave on 3 June.

  Hired:
    Nima Thenduk/Tendu, 31/8/73 (15/5/2030), Pangboche/Mathilow, Walung 
      (Upper Walung), Makalu-9, Everest with Kobler's team in 2006 & 2008
    Ang Ngima, 16/6/81 (21/5/07), Pangkarma, Beni, Everest X1


expid: EVER10162
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Marc Batard
sponsor: Trek On-Line May 2010 Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2010-05-05
smtdate: 2010-05-22
termdate: 2010-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 8800m due to exhaustion
campsites: BC(05/05,5000m),IC(09/05,5800m),ABC(11/05,6400m),C1(13/05,7150m),C2(7700m),xxx(22/05,8800m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Batard hoped to set a speed record for climbing Everest from Tibet, as he had done on the Nepalese side in 1988. He had come to Everest in the spring of 2009 and found that he still could move very fast.

  Now he was back with eight other members, five of them intended to climb high. They spent three nights together in France at 3600m above Chamonix, flew from Geneva to Lhasa, which is also at 3600m, stayed there for three nights, two nights in Gyantse and one night in Shigatse before arriving at Chinese BC at 5000m on 5 May. They moved up to an interim camp at 5800m on 9 May, and all were in ABC on 11 May.

  Batard was the first to go to C1: he moved alone to C1 (7150m) at the North Col on the 13th, stayed for two nights, climbed to 7500m to acclimatize on the 15th and went back to ABC the same day. He descended to BC on the 17th to see Roux, who was sick, then on the 19th returned to ABC, where he joined Lhakpa Norbu, who had been with Laborde.

  On 21 May at 2:00 pm Batard started his speed ascent with Lhakpa Norbu. They reached C1 in two and a half hours, stayed there for 30 minutes and moved on up. At 7300m, Batard started vomiting. They continued up to 7600m at about 8:00 pm, when Batard's stomach trouble forced him to give up. He told Lhakpa Norbu that he should go on to the summit. Batard returned to ABC at midnight. Lhakpa Norbu turned back at C2 (7700m); he said the reason was that his down jacket was too light, but Batard thinks he did not want to continue alone. Batard made no further attempt to scale the mountain and remained in ABC until the climb was over; he said he would not come back and try a speed climb again.

  Faivre managed to get to fifty meters below the summit before he became too tired to continue. He and Nima Dorje climbed to C1 on 21 May, rested there for two hours, then went directly from there to the 8800m high ledge just below the top on 22 May.

  Lamoureux reached 8000m on 23 May with Pasang Temba. The climb up to C2 to 7700m had been very difficult for her, and she now decided to abandon her summit attempt.

  Defrade got to 7600m before he became very tired and his fingers were getting cold. He turned back here.

  Bremond climbed to C2 with Lamoureux, then gave up.

  Laborde on 19 May got to only 5700m, got sick, went down to BC and left the expedition.

  Non-climbing members:

  Cyprien and Guillemard intended to go to the North Col only, but actually got no higher than ABC.

  Roux went only to ABC as planned, got sick and went down to BC.

  Oxygen was used by Faivre and Nima Dorje from C1 to their high point (8800m) and down to C2. Laborde was on oxygen from C2 to 8000m to C2. Lamoureux used none.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Norbu, 14/2/83, Tashigaon, Makalu-5, Everest 18/5/06
    Nima Dorje/Ngima Dorchi, 7/10/80, Tumlingtar, Makalu-5, Everest X2
    Pasang Temba, 20/1/83, Tashigaon-5, Everest 18/5/06


expid: EVER10163
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Chad Kellogg
sponsor: Independent American on Everest
bcdate: 2010-04-10
smtdate: 2010-05-23
termdate: 2010-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 8250m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(10/04,5350m),C2(20/04,6500m),C3(07/05,7300m),xxx(23/05,8250m)
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  Kellogg's intention was to set a new speed record for an ascent and descent of Everest on the Nepalese side with no Sherpa helpers and no supplemental oxygen.

  After arriving at BC on 10 April, Kellogg spent most of the rest of the month ferrying his loads to C1 and C2, and in the process, acclimatizing. He helped the men fixing rope on the Lhotse Face above C2 by helping to fix 20 double anchors. then on the 27th, he made a speed test run from BC to the site for C3 at 7300m and back in eleven and a half hours round trip.

  On 28 April he descended to the village of Deboche to rest. He returned to BC on 3 May, and on the 6th carried a load to C2. On the 7th he carried a 45-pound load to C3, took two thermos bottles to the South Col and went back to C3 to spend the night there.

  He spent the 9th to the 14th of May resting again in Deboche. He had developed a bad cough, and high winds were forecast to continue through the 14th, when he returned to BC. On the 18th he made one more carry to C2 and descended to BC. The new weather forecast predicted the strong winds would continue until the 22nd. He decided to hire a Sherpa to melt water for him in C3 and it was agreed that a Sherpa with an expedition led by Willie Benegas would be available to melt water for him in their C4 on the Col and fill the two thermos bottles he had left there. (When he reached the Col, the thermoses had disappeared.)

  Finally on the 22nd he left BC alone at 4:15 pm for his summit speed climb. But he got no higher than 8250m at the rocks below the Balcony at 11:30 am on 23 May. He had covered the distance in 19.35 hours.

  He now turned back because of poor weather conditions and 138 climbers crowding the route descending from the top in single file. "Not the day for a speed record," he commented dryly. The number of people on the route was "unbelievable." If there had been no crowd, he believes he would have summited in the dark.

  He spent that night and the next night in C2, hoping the weather would improve. When it did no, he dismantled C2 and carried his equipment to BC. The climb was over.

  He felt he had spent too much energy in the two and a half hours he spent in the Icefall to the site of C1. He said said that next time he would hire four Sherpas to carry his loads and to take oxygen bottles up the mountain for him in case he needed them.


expid: EVER10164
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Josette Valloton
sponsor: SummitClimb International Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2010
countries: Canada, Nepal, Norway, Switzerland, UK
bcdate: 2010-04-08
smtdate: 2010-05-17
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2010-05-25
othersmts: Attemped Lhotse (LHOT-101-15)
campsites: BC(08/04,5350m),C1(21/04,6000m),C2(21/04,6500m),C3(29/04,7300m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(17,23/05)
agency: Everest Parivar
primid: LHOT10115
routememo:
  The first summit party left C4 at 9:00 pm on 16 May. They were Holstad, Mazur, Valloton, Thapa, Da Chhemba, Lhakpa Nuru and Tenji. Da Chhemba turned back at 8500m because he was not dressed warmly enough and his headlamp failed; Tenji had to help him down to C4, where he arrived at 8 am on the 17th. He continued down and got to C2 at 6:00 pm and was in BC the next day, the 18th.

  Da Chhemba also complained that his oxygen regulator was leaking; this was the third regulator that he had been given. Thapa thinks that perhaps he simply didn't want to go higher.

  Holstad had been climbing with Da Chhemba, and when his Sherpa turned around, Holstad didn't want to climb without him and he, too, returned to C4 and descended to C2 at 3:00 pm. Thapa went to C2 with them.

  Mazur with Lhakpa Nuru summited at 7:14 am of the 17th. Mazur went on down to C2 and arrived there at 6:00 pm; he descended to BC on the 18th and left it on the 20th.

  Holstad who had stopped in C2, and Da Chhemba, who had gone to BC, now moved up again. The Sherpa went up from BC on 20 May and the two men, plus Philama, arrived at C4 on the 22nd and left it at 9:00 pm to go for the summit. Holstad and De Chhemba got to the top on 23rd May at 8:30 am and Philama half an hour later. They returned to C4 at 3:00 pm and were back in BC on the next day.

  Non-summiting members:

  Adam went to C1 on 18 April, was homesick and left the team on 22nd.

  Burgess had a problem with one ankle at Gorak Shep, continued to BC but didn't go higher and also left on 22nd April.

  Dixon climbed to C3 on 14 May, decided he had had enough, returned to BC the next day.

  Nuzum moved up to C1 on 21 May and to C2 on the 22nd, but had a very bad cough and descended to BC on the 23rd. He went on down to Pheriche, where the doctor advised him not to return to the mountain but to go home. He did.

  Thapa, as stated above, descended with Holstad and Da Chhemba of the first summit group from 8500m to C2 and did not try to summit again.

  Vora occupied C4 on 15 May having used oxygen in C3 and climbing to C4 and in C4, but nevertheless his fingers and toes were very cold and instead of joining the push to the summit, he went down to C2 on the 17th. He returned to BC on the 18th and left the expedition on the 19th.

  Valloton did not go very far (perhaps 100 meters) above C4 on 16 May in the summit party. She said she was cold; she was not wearing a down suit. She went down to C3 that and left the expedition a few days later. Raj Thapa as deputy leader, took over the leadership.

  The first summit party's members used oxygen from C3 to their high points to C3, and the Sherpas used it in C4 to high points to C4.

  In the second summit group, Holstad was on oxygen from C3 to the top and all the way down to C2 because during his climb to the summit his toes had gotten frostnipped and his fingers frostbitten at the South Summit (his fingers developed blisters, but were expected to heal completely). The two Sherpas used oxygen from C4 to top to C4.

  Sherpas:
    Da Chhemba, 2/3/68, Gudel, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2
    Lhakpa Nuru, 21/8/81, Phakding, Solu, Everest X1, Lhotse X1
    Philama Tamang, 17/7/76 (2/4/2033), Haku-8, Rasuwa, no 8000ers
    Tenji, 1/6/82, Patle, Everest X5


expid: EVER10165
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Tim Rippel
sponsor: Peak Freaks Everest Expedition 2010
countries: Argentina, Australia, Finland, Ireland, Oman, Turkey, UK, USA
bcdate: 2010-04-08
smtdate: 2010-05-07
smttime: 0742
termdate: 2010-05-26
campsites: BC(08/04,5350m),C1(21/04,6000m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(15/05,7150m),C4(16/05,7950m),Smt(7,17,23/05)
agency: Senge Treks & Expeditions
routememo:
  Before occupying C1, the team made numerous trips to the site as they acclimatized during the period of 10 to 17 April.

  The major summit pushes were in made the second half of May, but one member, Ms. Lucile de Beaudrap, summited on the 7th. She and Namgya Tshering carried a tent and food with them as they stayed at the sites for C3 and C4 since the camps had not yet been established. They left C4 site on 6 May at the early hour 6:00 pm because she was a slow climber. They arrived at the summit on the 7th at 7:00 am and went down to C2 at 8:00 pm. She left the expedition on 11 May, reached Kathmandu on the 14th and flew out of Nepal the next day.

  Three members and three Sherpas were the next to go for the top. They were Raiha, Searle, Solie, Mingmar, Chhong Karma and Lhakpa Tshiring, who left C4 on the 16th at 7:30 pm. Lhakpa Tshiring turned back to C4 at about 4:00 am on 17 May at 8300m because he was not feeling well. All the others summited at 7:52 am and joined him in C4 at 5 pm. The party descended to C2 the next day and were in BC on the 19th. They left BC on the 21st, returnd to Kathmandu on the 25th and left Nepal on 27 and 29 May.

  The final summit group consisted of seven members and eight Sherpas: Alsiyabi, Armesto, Jack, Mahruki, Petitt, Sevgul, White, Tashi Thundu, Palden Namgye, Sonam Finjo, Redar Lama Bhote, Mingma Nuru, Namgya Tshering (again from BC), Dawa Tshering and Phu Tashi. They left C4 at 6:30 pm on 22 May. At 3:00 am the following day, Petitt turned around at the Balcony (8500m); he knew he would not be strong enough to reach the top and declared that this would be his high point; Phu Tashi went with him all the way down to C2 at 4:30 pm. The were in BC the next day.

  The rest of the party continued to the summit on 23 May. The first to get there were White and Palden Namgye at 6:45 am; the last were Alsiyabi with Redar Lama Bhote at 12 noon. All summiters stopped in C4 for the night between 1:00 and 6:30 pm except Mahruki, who descended slowly and stopped in C3 at 8 pm. Sevgul, who was much faster, went on down to C2 at 4:00 pm. All were in C2 by the 24th and in BC the next day.

  Everybody used oxygen: all members except Mahruki from C3 to their high points, down to and in C4 and down as long as their supplies lasted; Mahruki started only at 8500m and used it from there to the summit and back to C4. All Sherpas used it from C4 to their high points to and in C4.

  The only health problems hit White and Lhaka Tenzing. White knew his toes were getting very cold when he reached the Balcony on his way to the top, but he said the summit was more important than frozen toes; he will probably lose the ends of the two toes.

  Lhakpa Tenzing fell in the Icefall when a ladder pulled away in the warmish hour of 2:00 pm, and he fell off the ladder. He broke bones in his wrist.

  Sherpas:
    Chhong Karma, 25/6/80 (12/3/2037), Tingla-2, Solu
    Dawa Tshering, 10/9/81 (25/5/2038), Khunde, Everest X1, Kangchenjunga X1
    Lhakpa Tshiring, 18/4/79 (5/1/2036), Khunde
    Mingma Nuru, 27/6/85 (13/3/2042), Khunde
    Mingmar Sherpa, 22/7/70 (4/7/2027), Damar, Jantarkhani-9, Okhaldhunga, 
      Everest X3
    Namgya Tshering, 22/8/82 (6/5/2039), Khumjung, Everest X1
    Palden Namgye, 20/9/72, Phortse, Everest X3, Lhotse X4, Manaslu X1, Annapurna X1
    Phu Tashi, 23/10/77 (7/7/2034), Phortse, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1
    Redar Lama Bhote, 19/11/86, Hatiya-3, Makalu, Everest 20/5/09
    Sonam Finjo, 3/10/85 (17/6/2042), Khunde, Everest X1
    Tashi Thundu, 10/4/85, Khumjung, Everest X5


expid: EVER10166
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Lal Bahadur Jirel
sponsor: International Everest Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-04-14
smtdate: 2010-05-23
smttime: 0335
termdate: 2010-05-28
campsites: BC(14/04,5200m),ABC(18/04,6400m),C1(01/05,7200m),C2(21/05,7800m),C3(22/05,8300m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Jirel started his summit bid on 20 May to C1; 21 May to C2; reached C3 on 22nd May. He left C3 at 7:45 pm NST and reached the top at 3:35 am on 23 May. He stayed on summit for 2 hours 25 minutes waiting for the Sherpa friend who was with other expedition to take his photos.

  At 4 am one foreigner and 3 Sherpas came up from south side. From north side ahead of Jirel there were seven climbers including Sherpas were on the summit. Behind Jirel there were maybe 50/60 climbers. Jirel descended to C3 around 2 pm where he rested for about an hour, then to C2 at about 5:30 pm. Spent night at C2. Next day to ABC. The weather on summit day ws clear. His expenses were borne by [Jirel Association] Nepal. He is General Secretary of the Association. Jirel returned to Kathmandu on 29 May.

  Jirel said that there were three dead on north side: Hungarian, Japanese and French.


expid: EVER10167
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Alex Abramov
sponsor: Seven Summits Club Everest 2010
countries: Macedonia, Poland, UK, Ukraine, USA
bcdate: 2010-04-12
smtdate: 2010-05-23
smttime: 0315
termdate: 2010-05-27
othersmts: Changtse
campsites: BC(12/04,5200m),ABC(16/04,6400m),C1(27/04,7000m),C2(21/05,7700m),C3(22/05,8300m),Smt(23-24/05)
accidents: Berry fell and broke ribs; Filkov went blind
agency: 7 Summits Adventure
routememo:
  All times are Chinese times.

  Summit 23rd May: Hanna, Berry, Wilde, Filkov, Turovskiy, Mingma Gelu, Nima Ongdi, Pasang, Rinjin and Renje Lhakpa at 5:30 am (3:15 NST).

  24 May: Larin, Dejanovic, Pierz-Pekala, Mizera, Gorelik, Pemba Nurbu, Nima Dorje, Bir Kaji, Nima Dorchi and Jangbu at 8:30 am (6:15 NST).

  23rd May summit team and Nadvodnyuk left C3 at 10:30 pm on 22nd May. Weather was good but windy. Nadvodnyuk reached about 8700m, but when his right eye started going blind, he decided to turn back. He descended to ABC and his eye got better during the descent. The rest of the group summited in the dark. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit. Filkov started to have problems with his eyesight on the summit and went completely blind eventually. Hanna short-roped him to C3, where he regained his eyesight.

  The whole team descended to ABC, where they arrived between 5 pm and midnight. The last one to reach was Berry, who had fallen on the way down and broken two ribs.

  24th May summit team left C3 at 10:30 pm on 23rd May. It was snowing but warm. They spent about 15 minutes on the summit. There were no views. Dejanovic and Mizera descended to ABC, where they arrived at 7:30 pm. The rest of the team descended to C2, where they arrived about 9:30 pm.

  On 25th May everyone was back at ABC.

  Abramov, Mingma Gelu, Pemba Nurbu and Nima Ongdi climbed Changtse (7600m) on 16th May. Abramov never intended to climb Everest as he was leading the expedition from base camp.

  Bogatyrev and Karisalov reached C1 on 27 April. Karisalov was very weak and as he had to leave the expedition by 1st May, he abandoned the climb. As Bogatyrev was his guide, he left with him.

  Ginalski reached North Col twice. However, he had a bad cough and was coughing up blood, he decided to abandon his climb.

  Oxygen:
    All members from North Col to summit to ABC
    Sherpas from C2 to summit to C2

  Summit Sherpas:
    Mingma Gelu, Balakharka, Makalu, 5/2/79, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X1
    Nima/Ngima Ongdi, Balakharka, Makalu, 19/2/79, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1
    Pasang, Balakharka, Makalu, 20/02/83, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1
    Rinjin, Balakharka, Makalu-5, Sankhuwasabha, 1/2/73
    Renje, Balakharka, Makalu-5, Sankhuwasabha, 17/2/88, 1st 8000er
    Jangbu, Balakharka, Makalu, 26/8/85, Everest X3
    Pemba Nurbu, Tashigaon, Makalu, 28/3/80, Everest X3
    Nima Dorje, Namche-6, Khumbu, 31/8/84 (15/5/2041), Everest X1
    Nima Dorchi, 18/4/82 (5/1/2029), Makalu 31/8/84
    Bir Kaji Tamang, Gorakhani-4, Solukhumbu, 10/12/78 (25/8/2035), 1st 8000er


expid: EVER10168
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Bangladesh
leaders: Mohammad Musa Ibrahim
sponsor: Bangladeshi Everest Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-04-14
smtdate: 2010-05-23
smttime: 0450
termdate: 2010-05-27
campsites: BC(14/04,5200m),ABC(19/04,6400m),C1(23/04,7100m),C2(21/05,7700m),C3(22/05,8300m),Smt(23/05)
achievment: 1st Bangladeshi to summit Everest
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 18 April at about 5800m.

  Ibrahim, Kailash and Lhakpa Nuru started their summit bid from C3 at 8 pm on 22 May. They reached the top at 4:50 am NST 23rd May, stayed on summit for 25 minutes, then descended to C3 at 10:30 am. They rested for some time, then continued to C2 at 7 pm. On 24 May went down to ABC. The summit day weather was clear, but a little windy. About 20 climbers were ahead of Ibrahim's team and behind were between 25-30 climbers. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 27 May and Ibrahim will leave on 1 June.

  Hired:
    Kailash Tamang, 13/2/82, Kanku-5, Everest in 15/5/2007
    Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa, 3/10/60, Namche-6, Pare, Everest 10/9/09, Cho Oyu X2


expid: EVER10169
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Scott Woolums
sponsor: Mountain Trip Everest 2010
countries: Ireland, Poland
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2010-04-19
smtdate: 2010-05-23
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2010-05-27
campsites: BC(19/04,5350m),C1(23/04,6100m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(21/05,7100m),C4(22/05,8000m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  Team left C4 at 9 pm on 22nd May. Light winds, clear but cold. It was quite a busy day. The team stayed about one hour on the summit as they had very good views. They descended to South Col, where they arrived around 3:30 pm. Very straightforward climb, without any problems.

  On the way down, Pasang Gombu helped bring Phil Crampton's client down to the South Col. He suffered from HAPE and needed help with the descent.

  On 24th they descended to C2 and on 25th to BC.

  Oxygen:
    All members from C3 to summit to C3
    All Sherpas from C4 to summit to C4

  Summit Sherpas:
    Tarke Sherpa, Rakshi Kharka, Lokhim, 1967, Cho Oyu X5, Ever X2, Manaslu X1
    Sange Sherpa, Sotang-6, 20/9/73, Everest X2
    Temba Sherpa, Sotang-6, 4/9/77, Everest X2
    Da Ongchu Sherpa, Kurima, Lokhim, Solu, 16/4/79, Everest X2
    Pasang Gombu, Sotang, Solu, 28/12/69
    Karma Gyalgen, Sotang-6, Solu, 31/7/88 (2045/16/4), 1st 8000er
    Pemba Chhotar, Sotang-6, Solu, 22/9/79 (2036/6/6), 1st 8000er
    Pem Chhiri, Kurima, Lokhim-9, 7/6/75 (2032/2/24), 1st 8000er
    Sonam Chhiring, Kurima, Lokhim-9, Solu, 30/8/84 (14/5/2041), 1st 8000er
    Da Kusang Sherpa, Kurima, Lokhim-9, Solu, 28/5/89 (15/2/2046), 1st 8000er


expid: EVER10170
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Wilfried Studer
sponsor: Austria-Germany Everest Paragliding
countries: Germany
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-04-24
smtdate: 2010-05-23
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2010-05-26
campsites: BC(24/04,5200m),ABC(29/04,6400m),C1(17/05,7100m),C2(21/05,7700m),C3(22/05,8300m),Smt(23/05)
achievment: 1st Austrian woman to top; second mother-daughter ascent
agency: High Country Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC 28 April mid-camp at 5800m.

  Kramer, Niggemann, Claudia Studer, Sylvia Studer, Wilfried Studer, Vienhauser, Phurba Ongel, Nima Tenjing and Nima started their summit bid from C3 between 10-11 pm NST on 22 May. Kramer and Niggelmann turned around from 8450m due to exhaustion and Nima Tenjing accompanied them. Vienhauser climbing without oxygen turned around from 3rd Step (about 8600m); he did not want to go further up and descended to ABC. Claudia Studer, Sylvia Studer, Wilfried Studer, Phurba Ongel and Nima reached to the top at 9:30 am on 23 May. They stayed on summit for 45 minutes and descended to C3 where they reached at 1:30 pm, then continued to C2 where they spent the night. On 24 May went down to ABC. The summit day weather was very good, clear and no wind. The team was the last to reach to the summit. Ahead of the team there were maybe about 20 climbers on the summit. The Studer team saw on the summit about 20 climbers from south side. 

  Vonbank touched C2 on 17 May and left ABC on 21 May and left Kathmandu on 24 May; he had to leave due to lack of time. 

  Wawrla's high point was ABC; he left BC on 13 May and left Kathmandu on 15 May due to lack of time. 

  The expedition team returned to Kathmandu on 27 May and will leave on 30 and 31 May.

  Oxygen:
    Kramer and Niggemann from C2 to 8450m back to C2
    Claudia Studer from C2 to summit back to C2
    Sylvia and Wilfried Studer from C3 to summit to 8500m
    Phurba Ongel Sherpa and Nima Sherpa from C3 to summit to 8500m

  Sherpas:
    Phurba Ongel, 30/7/81 (15/4/2038), Makalu-9, Annapurna 21/4/09
    Nima (Ngima) (aka Maila), 2/12/72, Sikli, Jubing-9, Cho Oyu X4, Everest X2
    Nima Tenji, 1980-81, Paiya, Solu


expid: EVER10171
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: SummitClimb International Everest Expedition 2010
countries: Australia, Canada, Germany, Norway, UK
bcdate: 2010-04-07
smtdate: 2010-05-24
smttime: 0752
termdate: 2010-05-30
campsites: BC(07/04),ABC(13/04,6450m),C1(16/04,7060m),C2(27/04,7820m),C3(21/05,8300m),Smt(24/05)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  C1 at North Col.

  The first summit party left C3 for the top on 23 May at 11:45 pm (Chinese time). They were: Delstanche, Karacic, St. Germain, Vickers and Sherpas Dawa Jangbu and Thile Nuru. All except Karacic and Dawa Jangbu reached the summit on the 24th at 10:07 am (7:52 NST) and were back in C3 at 5:75 pm. Karacic was very slow; he and Dawa Jangbu summited at 2:00 pm (11:45 NST) and got back to C3 only at 9:45 pm.

  The next day, the 25th, all were in C1 except St. Germain, whose three fingers were frostbitten and who descended to ABC. The others joined him in ABC on the 26th.

  Meanwhile the second summit group launched themselves from C3 at midnight of 24/25 May. Those in this group were Bull, Hopper, Kazanas, Kinloch, Lundsgaard, O'Brien, Rodriguez, Tertil and Sherpas Lhakpa Gelu, Pasang Gelu, Phurba Wangchu, Jangbu from Kharikhola, Jangbu from Patle and Gyalzen. Six of the members, Kazanas, Kinloch, Lundsgaard, O'Brien, Rodriguez and Tertil and five Sherpas, Lhakpa Gelu, Gyalzen, the two Jangbus and Phurba Wangchu, made it all the way to the top. The successful members got there between 12:45 (Kazanas) and 1:05 pm (Tertil) (10:30 to 10:50 NST).

  Bull reached 8350m, suffered from vertigo and with Pasang Gelu turned back to C3. Hopper climbed up to 8625m and became fearful and also went down to C3.

  All the second group climbers returned to C3 to sleep that night except O'Brien and Kinloch. Kinloch, descending from the summit, suddenly became blind. He told O'Brien that this had happened to him before (not on a mountain). He had no pain; he just couldn't see anything, O'Brien and Jangbu from (Patle) spent 12 hours getting him down from the top of the 2nd Step to the mushroom rock on the top of the 1st Step at about 8600m. O'Brien was on his knees placing Kinloch's feet and unclipping him from the fixed ropes and clipping him back again while Jangbu short-roped him.

  Now Kinloch sat down and refused to move. The Scottish police officer now threw his oxygen equipment and water flask down the mountain side, pulled out the syringe with which rescuers were trying to inject him with medication, and fought off the Sherpas who attempted to get him up on his feet. He said to O'Brien, "It was my 25 year ambition to climb Everest, I've got to the top, and this is an Ok place to die." He was suffering from extreme exhaustion, cerebral edema and hypothermia.

  By this time O'Brien and Jangbu were very cold and had had no oxygen for seven hours. O'Brien reported the situation to leader Dan Mazur at 2:00 am on the 26th and Mazur told them to come down; by now O'Brien was hallucinating. He and Jangbu from Kharikhola went down to C3 at 5:00 am; Jangbu from Patle and Phurba Wangchu arrived there half an hour later.

  O'Brien got into a Russian tent at C3. At 10:00 am he was awakened by a Russian who was about to dismantle the tent. He descended to C1 at 2:00 am on the 27th and continued down to ABC at 1:00 pm the same day.

  Kinloch's body remained where he had died.

  Other Non-summiting members:

  Crosland on the 22 May got to 7500m, where he became exhausted; he left on the 26th.

  Eli Hall also climbed to 7500m on 27 April, now had a stomach problem, hoped to recover soon and stayed in ABC until 22 May. He then realized he was not fit enough to join any push for the top and left on 22 May.

  Jesse Hall developed a retinal hemorrhage in each eye at C1 on the North Col on 16 April and left the expedition on the 20th.

  One of Irnich's fingers got frostbitten in C3 on 24 May, so he made no attempt to go to the top, and descended with the second summit group.

  Lindstrom was not strong, got to ABC only and left on 15 Aril.

  Marino went to C1 in the party who set up the camp, then got a stomach problem and left on the 26th.

  Expedition leader Mazur never went above C3.

  The members of the first summit party used oxygen from C2 to top to and in C3. Their Sherpas used none. In the second group, the members were on oxygen from C1 to their high points to C1 while their Sherpas were on it from C3 to their high points and back to C3.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Jangbu, 4/6/79, Patle-4, Okhaldhunga, Lhotse 19/5/08
    Gyalzen/Gyalje Sherpa, 25/1/74 (12/10/2030), Patle, Okhaldhunga, no 8000ers
    Jangbu Sherpa, 22/2/81, Kharikhola, Solu, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1
    Jangbu Sherpa, 24/5/67, Patle, Okhaldhunga, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X4, Lhotse S1
    Lhakpa Gelu, 13/4/77, Thumbuk, Beni-3, Solu, Everest X4, Lhotse X1, Cho Oyu X2
    Pasang Gelu, 28/11/63, Dhimbul, Gudel-9, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X1, Dhaula X1
    Phurba Wangchu, 5/12/75, Waku-9, Solu, Everest X1, Lhotse X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Thile Nuru, 26/8/74, Choplung, Chaurikharka-3, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X1, Lhotse X1


  Dan Mazur & Laval St. Germain - 24 March 2020

  St. Germain summited without the use of supplemental oxygen. As


expid: EVER10172
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Rana Bahadur Tamang
sponsor: Everest Expedition for Social Works
approach: Monjo->Namche->Phortse->Lobuche
bcdate: 2010-04-27
smtdate: 2010-05-17
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2010-05-21
campsites: BC(27/04,5300m),C1(08/05,6100m),C2(09/05,6400m),xxx(09/05,6400m),Smt(17/05)
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  Leader of the expedition Rana Bahadur Tamang along with Nima Dorje Tamang went up to C2 on 9 May planning to touch C3 for acclimatization. At C2 Rana Bahadur suffered from cough and respiratory problem and also became very weak. They spent two nights 9 & 10 May at C2 and descended to BC. Rana Bahadur could not recover until the day of summit push which was 14-15 May and on 16 May he decided to abandon the climb. However, Rana Bahadur's climbing Sherpas continued for summit and Nima Dorje Tamang got to the summit on 17 May at 10 am. He descended to C4 around 7 pm. Next day he came down to BC. 

  Kami Nuru got stomach problem at 8400m; he did not go to the summit. 

  Rana Bahadur took helicopter from Gorak Shep to Lukla and got back to Kathmandu on 23 May.

  Hired:
    Nima Dorje Tamang, 8/1/80 (24/9/2036), Chitre, Bakachol-0, Khotang, Everest X4
    Kami Nuru Sherpa

accidents:
  Rana Bahadur Tamang suffered from cough and respiratory problem (could not pack, became very weak at C2)


expid: EVER10174
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Michael Niemeier
sponsor: Karl Wilhelm Niemeier Everest Expedition
approach: Monjo->Namche->Tengboche->Pheriche->Lobuche
bcdate: 2010-04-14
smtdate: 2010-05-23
smttime: 1142
termdate: 2010-05-27
campsites: BC(14/04,5300m),C2(10/04,6300m),C3(20/05,7100m),C4(21/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
achievment: May be the 1st German to summit from north & south
agency: Pasang Rita Sherpa (Peak Promotion pmt)
routememo:
  Niemeier and Pasang Rita started their summit bid from C4 at 8:30 pm on 22 May. They reached to the top at 11:42 am on 23 May and spent an hour on the summit. Niemeier and Pasang Rita descended to C4 at around 6 pm, spent night at C4. On 24 May they went down to C2 and slept there. On 25 May they went to BC. The weather on summit day was sunny still cold due to wind about 80 km/hr. Niemeier team was the last one on the summit on that day. They were stranded at Balcony for an hour due to rescue work ahead of them. 

  On their descent the team returned to Kathmandu on 30 May and will leave on 29 June.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Rita Sherpa, 1/7/77, Thamo, Everest X4


expid: EVER10114
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Paul Romero
sponsor: Team Jordan Everest Expedition
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-04-16
smtdate: 2010-05-22
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2010-05-26
campsites: BC(16/04,5200m),ABC(20/04,6400m),C1(22/04,7000m),C2(25/04,7500m),C3(21/05,8300m),Smt(22/05)
accidents: Jordan's crampon hit Paul's head (had to have 8 stitches) due to avalanche
agency: Nepal Trans Himalayan Explorer
routememo:
  Lundgren, Jordan Romero, Paul Romero, Ang Pasang, Pasang Karma and Lama Dawa started their summit bid from C2 on 21 May at 5:30 pm Chinese Time. They changed oxygen cylinders at C3 on their way up and rested for one hour. They reached the top at 9:45 am (7:30 NST) on 22 May and stayed 30 minutes on the summit. On their way down they rested for one and half hours at C3. They descended to C2 at 7 pm and spent the night. On 23 May descended to ABC. This team was the only team which summited from north side on that day. The weather on the summit day was sunny, wind speed was 20 km/ph and -25 very cold. The team returned to Kathmandu on 26 May and will leave on 29 May.

  The team will go to Antarctica in summer. Also the team has plan to try on Cho Oyu in October 2010.

  Milburn's high point was ABC.

  Accident; On 22 April while the team climbing from ABC to C1 one of the seracs at 6800m fell and created an avalanche that snapped the fix rope on which Jordan and Paul were clipped on. Both father and son suddenly lost the balance due to the snapped rope and tumbled down and Paul's head and legs was hit by Jordan's crampon. At that moment both were on the edge of the avalanche. After a while, they got up and started to move upward. Then, Jordan saw blood in his father's head. Paul had eight stitches in his head, some in his thighs.

  Record: Youngest person to summit the Everest.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Pasang, 28/09/79 (12/06/2036), Waku-4, Lhotse X1
    Pasang Karma, 25/11/72 (10/08/2029), Paiya, Jubing-7, Everest X4
    Lama Dawa, 18/02/75 (06/1/2031), Waku-4, Everest X1


expid: EVER10177
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Garrett Madison
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Everest Expedition 2010
countries: Australia, Germany
bcdate: 2010-04-14
smtdate: 2010-05-05
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2010-05-27
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
campsites:
  BC(14/04,5350m),C1(19/04,5800m),C2(21/04,6700m),C3(30/04,7300m),C4.Shrpas(04/05,7900m),C4.Mbrs(12/05,7900m),Smt(05,24/05)

routememo:
  Three of the expedition's Sherpas worked with a few other Sherpas fixing the ropes to the summit on 5 May. They got to C4 on the 4th and finished the job to the top at 11:30 am on the 5th. They were Chuwang Nima, Kami Rita and Phura Kancha.

  Nine members and eight Sherpas summited on one day, the 24th. They were:

    Members           Sherpas
  Folkerts          Ang Pasang
  Healy             Chuwang Nima
  Horst             Dawa Nuru
  Kraft             Kami Rita
  Levine            Lhakpa Rita
  Madison           Mingma Dorje
  Martin            Mingma Chhiri
  Tejas             Phura Kancha
  Vescovo           

  They went to C4 on the 22nd. Healy (aged 65), Tejas (one of three deputy leaders) and Ang Pasang left camp at 9:45 pm, while all others in the summit party left at 10:45 pm. They reached the top on 24 May at slightly different times: Folkerts, Levine, Madison, Chuwang Nima, Mingma Dorje and Phura Kancha at 8:10 am; Horst, Martin, Vescovo, Kami Rita and Mingma Chhiri at 8:20 am; and Healy, Kraft, Tejas, Ang Pasang and Dawa Nuru at 8:50 am.

  For Chuwang Nima, Kami Rita and Phura Kancha, this was their second ascent this month since they had been there on 5 May fixing rope.

  There was a light wind blowing when they were on the summit and it was slightly cloudy, but when they got down to the South Summit, they were in thick clouds. All returned to C4 between noon and 1:00 pm and stayed there that night.

  On the 25th Tejas and Martin descended all the way to BC; Tejas was attempting to set a speed record for the elapsed time between the first and last of the seven summits. The next day, the 26th, they were picked up by a helicopter from Gorak Shep and flown to Kathmandu. All the other summiters stopped at C2, were back in BC on the 26th and left BC on the 27th. Healy, Craft and Vescovo went to Gorak Shep that day and flew by helicopter to Kathmandu; Vescovo went on to Bangkok the same afternoon.

  Non-summiting members:

  Henke was BC manager and did not go above BC.

  Kluberton was assistant BC manager and also did not go higher.

  McDonald developed a problem with his sciatic nerve in C2 on 18 May, retreated to BC on the 21st and left the same day in a helicopter from Gorak Shep.

  Rudolf had gastrointestinal problems in BC and left by helicopter on 15 April.

  Smith got to C3 but was incapable of climbing higher and left the expedition on 7 May.

  Oxygen was used by all members except Horst and Kraft while going for the summit, sleeping in C3, going to the top and down to C2. Horst and Kraft started using it in C2 on their way up because Kraft was rather dizzy on the day that members left C2 on the team's summit push, and Horst (a deputy leader) moved with him. The Sherpas used none while fixing rope or climbing with members.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Pasang, 19/6/67, Thami, Khumbu, Everest X9, Lhotse X1
    Chuwang/Chewang Nima, 20/8/67, Tesho, Khumbu, Everest X16 (before 5/5/10),
      Cho Oyu X2
    Dawa Nuru/Da Nuru, 25/11/64, Thami, Khumbu, Everest X2
    Kami Rita (Topke), 17/1/70, Thami, Khumbu, Everest X15 (before 5/5/10, Cho Oyu X4
    Lhakpa Rita, 9/9/66, originally from Thami, Khumbu, but now living in Shoreline, 
      Washington, USA, Everest X12, Cho Oyu X7
    Mingma Chhiri/Tsheri, 22/7/68, Thami, Khumbu, Everest X11
    Mingma Dorje, 28/5/69, Sibuje, Waku-4, Solu, Everest X3
    Phura Kancha, 17/1/77, Thame, Khumbu, Everest X4 (before 5/5/10), Cho Oyu X2


expid: EVER10178
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Stuart Peacock
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Everest Expedition 2010
countries: Australia, Canada, Netherlands, USA
bcdate: 2010-04-11
smtdate: 2010-05-23
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2010-05-27
campsites: BC(11/04,5200m),ABC(18/04,6400m),C1(02/05,7000m),C2(21/05,7800m),C3(22/05,8300m),Smt(23/05)
accidents: HACE by Williams
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Summit: 23rd May by Peacock, O'Mahoney, O'Meara, Snook, Sunnucks, Dorje Khatri, Pasang Angjuck, Sonam Dorje, Mingma, Phurba Bhote and Norbu Sherpa at 6:30 am (NST).

  On 22nd May, summit team together with Dickinson, Green, Owen, Price, Reesby, Robertson, Stewart, Walsh and Williams left C3 at 10:30 pm. The weather was very calm and clear. The summit team spent about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at about 8:30 pm.

  Dickinson stopped at 2nd Step due to altitude sickness; he was vomiting and returned to C2.

  Green got to above the 2nd Step and had to stop as he had run out of oxygen. He had taken two half empty oxygen bottles by mistake. A Sherpa brought another bottle for him but it was too late in the day (8:30 am), so he turned back and descended to C3.

  Owen reached the 2nd Step. He had broken the little bottle on his oxygen mask, which led the bottle to ice up. Due to the problems with his oxygen mask, his fingers were also very cold, so he decided to turn back and descend to ABC.

  Price reached 8450m, just below the 1st Step. His guide Surendra Kumar Gurung was suffering from high altitude sickness and was helped down by Nima Thundu and Price. They stopped at C3 to recover and eventually went down to C2.

  Reesby reached 2nd Step. He had problems with his eyesight; his vision was very cloudy. He turned back and descended to C2.

  Robertson reached the top of the 1st Step, but he suffered from a long term knee problem. The pain got too bad and he decided to turn back; he descended to ABC.

  Stewart reached the 3rd Step at 8750m at about 9 am and it was too late in the day to carry on. He turned back and descended to C2.

  Walsh reached the 2nd Step and did not like the look of the climb and was fazed by the exposure. He descended to C2.

  Williams reached the 2nd Step and collapsed with HACE; he had appeared to be suffering from HACE when he left C3, but he still wanted to go for the summit. Even though he had Sherpas with him he was on his own when Peacock found him on his way down from the summit at about 8400m at 10 am. Peacock short roped him to C3, where they rested before they carried on to C2.

  Davies reached 7800m on 22nd May; he showed signs of HACE and descended to ABC.

  Geluk reached C1 on 2nd May. She had pulled a muscle in her back and was in pain. She stayed 2 nights at C1 and descended to ABC. She stayed at ABC for the remainder of the expedition.

  Goldsmith reached C1 on 23rd April. It was on the acclimatization trip and he did not stay a night. After the avalanche on the North Col, in which the Hungarian climber died, he freaked out and left the expedition on 3rd May.

  The Grischows (Kenneth reached 6600m and Scott reached North Col) left the expedition on 3rd May. Kenneth was just not able to cope with the terrain and as they came as a father and son team, they decided to abandon the expedition.

  Reigersmann reached 6500m on 23rd April; he did not feel like climbing the mountain mentally. He left the expedition on 3rd May.

  O'Meara, Walsh, Ridley, Williams and Snook from C1 to summit or high point to C2, apart from Williams, who used oxygen to Chinese BC. All other members from 7500m to summit or high point to 7800m. Sherpas from C3 to summit or high point to C3.

  Summit Sherpas:
    Phurba Ridar Bhote, Chepuwa, Makalu-Barun, 1958, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2
    Dorje Khatri, Ghunsa, Lelep-9, Taplejung, 19/12/68, Everest X3
    Sonam Dorje, Pangboche, 18/1/86, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X2
    Mingma Gyabu Sherpa, Shekhatum-7, Taplejung, 16/05/89
    Nurbu Bhote Lama, Hatiya-1, Makalu-Barun, 29/5/81
    Pasang Angchuk Sherpa, Gyabla-8, Taplejung, 15/02/84, 1st 8000er

  Other Sherpas:
    Surendra Kumar Gurung, Khewang, Taplejung, 10/11/73, Everest X2
    Nima Thundu, Pangboche, Khumbu


expid: EVER10179
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Everest Expedition 2010
countries: Australia, China, Denmark, France, Germany, Japan, Oman, Romania, Spain, UK, USA
bcdate: 2010-04-09
smtdate: 2010-05-05
smttime: 1125
termdate: 2010-05-25
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East after going to BC (all members)
campsites: BC(09/04,5250m),C1(29/04,6057m),C2(29/04,6453m),C3(03/05,7249m),C4(04/05,7900m),Smt(05,22/05)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  The expedition established BC on 9 April, then climbed Lobuche East to acclimatize and returned to BC on 25 April.

  Working with other teams to fix ropes all the way to the top, Ballinger and three Sherpas, Dorje Sonam Gyalzen, Phurba Tashi and Rita Dorje, left C4 at 1:00 am on 5 May and reached the summit at 11:25 am. They returned to C4 that afternoon and went all the way down to BC the next day.

  The rest of the summiting members reached the top on 22 May. Sixteen members and 17 Sherpas left C4 at 11:00 pm on 21 May and all summited the next morning between 6:05 am and 7:58 am as follows.

  Member       Sherpa with this member   Summit time

  Ballinger     (none)                    7:56 am
  Chen          Rita Dorje                7:58 am
  Courtois      Lakpa Nuru                7:43 am
  Davison       (none)                    7:56 am
  Drnek         Nima Tenzing              7:56 am
  Kuraoka       (none)                    6:05 am
  Laaff         Ngima Chhiri              6:29 am
  Li            Ang Chhiring              7:25 am
  Lu            Pemba Nuru                6:10 am
  Nielsen       Pasang Kami               6:45 am
  Pedersen      Lhakpa Nuru               7:56 am
  Viti          Son Dorje                 7:29 am
  Jian Wang     Lopsang Temba             7:43 am
  Jing Wang     Nima Sona                 6:05 am
  Shi Wang      Tashi Chhiring            7:29 am
  Woodward      (none)                    7:29 am

  Sherpas not with specific members:
   
  Dorje Sonam Gyalzen  -  7:29 am
  Pasang Ngima         -  7:43 am
  Phurba Tashi         -  7:43 am
  Tashi Tshering       -  6:05 am
  Tshering Tashi       -  7:25 am

  (For Adrian Ballinger, Dorje Sonam Gyalzen, Phurba Tashi and Rita Dorje, their ascent on 22nd May was their second ascent this month, after having fixed rope to the top on 5 May).

  All summiters descended to C4 to stay the night except Ballinger, Chen, Laaf, Pedersen, Jing Wang and Shi Wang with their Sherpas; they who went down to C2.

  Non-summiting members:

  Al-Busaida climbed Lobuche East and went to BC with them, but he had broken his ankle on Lobuche. He did not go above BC, and he left the expedition on 26 April.

  Baciu also did not get above BC; he had a back problem and also left on 26 April.

  Brice stayed in BC throughtout the climb leading from there.

  Daniels reached C2 twice, on 30 April and 8 May, but was not good enough climber to go higher. He left the team on 10 April.

  Danize got to C3 on 3 May, but not good enough to continue. He left the expedition on 19 May.

  Funabashi reached C2 on 1 May, was too slow, and left the team on 6 May.

  McKinley was in C4 with the summit party on 21 May, but did not feel well enough to go to the the top.

  Piris was expedition doctor and stayed in BC throughout the climb. 

  Terry did not climb above BC; the mountain frightened him. He left on 29 April.

  Oxygen was used by all members in C3 to the summit and down until their supplies ran out below C4. Their Sherpas used it in C4 to the summit and down until their supplies were finished.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Chhiring, 1952, Phortse, Everest X2
    Dorje Sonam Gyalzen, 24/5/81, Phortse, Everest X11, Manaslu X1
    Lakpa Nuru, 1962, Phortse, Everest X3, Manaslu X2
    Lhakpa Nuru, 18/6/80, Phortse, Everest X5
    Lobsang Temba, 23/5/68, Khumjung, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X7
    Ngima Chhiri/Nima Tshering, 22/4/72, Phortse, Everest X3, Lhotse X1, Manaslu X1
    Nima Sona, 18/9/70, Phortse, Everest X1
    Nima Tenzing, 26/4/91, Phortse, Everest X1
    Pasang Kami, 26/7/79, Phortse, Everest X2
    Pasang Ngima/Nima, 1/10/92, Everest X1
    Pemba Nuru, 27/11/80, Khumjung, Everest X1
    Phurba Tashi, 24/5/71, Khumjung, Everest X15, Cho Oyu X5
    Rita Dorje, 24/10/77, Phortse, Everest X5
    Son Dorje, 22/5/63, Phortse, Everest X8, Manaslu X1
    Tashi Chhiring/Tshering, 8/5/90, Khumjung, Everest X1
    Tashi Tshering, 26/4/77, Khumjung, Everest X1
    Tshering Tashi, 30/4/80, Khunde, Everest X2


expid: EVER10180
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Michael Hamill
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Everest Expedition
countries: Canada, China, Czech Republic, Germany, Greece, Singapore, S Africa, Taiwan, UK
bcdate: 2010-04-11
smtdate: 2010-05-05
smttime: 0637
termdate: 2010-05-25
othersmts: Lobuche East
campsites: BC(11/04,5350m),C1(20/04,5950m),C2(22/04,6500m),C3(03/05,7300m),C4(22/05,7900m),Smt(05,23-24/05)
agency: Beyul Adventure
routememo:
  Three Sherpas from this expedition joined others in fixing rope to the summit on 5 May. They were Nima Karma, Phu Tshering and Phinjo Dorje.

  Members and more Sherpas went to the summit in two parties on 23 and 24 May. The group with the most climbers left C4 at 8:10 pm on the 22nd and all of them summited. They were:

    Members                Sherpas
  Boaz                   Da Sonam
  Carstens               Dorje Lama
  Bryan Chapman          Jamling Bhote
  Fairhurst              Kalden Phura
  Hamill                 Kancha Nuru (Pangboche)
  Hancock                Kancha Nuru (Phortse)
  Igo                    Karma Gyalzen
  Sankaran               Karma Rita
  Lein                   Mingma Dorje
  Masek                  Pasang
  Reckford               Pasang Nuru
  Schega                 Pasang Rinji
  Van Dalen              Phinjo
  Vernovage              Phinjo Dorje (2nd ascent in May 2010)
  Chien-Min Wang         Tseten Dorje

  This party left C4 at 8:10 pm on the 22nd. All of them got to the summit on 23 May between 6:37 am (Bryan Chapamn) and 10:40am (Reckford). They descended to C4, Masek was back at 11:00 am and Reckford at 5:20 pm. But Bryan Chapman, Masek and Shega went on down to C2, where they arrived at 2:00 pm. Everyone was in BC on the 25th.

  In the second party were eight members and seven Sherpas, who left C4 on the 23rd at 8:00 pm. They were Bergum, Michael Chapman, John and Ryan Dahlem, Ford, Kay, Merle and Lei Wang with Sherpas Danuru, Dawa Nuru, Mingma Chhiring, Mingma Tenzing, Nima Nuru and Sanduk Dorje. Because of the wind and light snowfall, three members, Bergum, Ford and Kay, turned back at the Balcony (about 8500m) and Mingma Chhiring, Mingma Tenzing and Nima Nuru went down with them; they returned to C4 at 6:00 am. The rest of the group summited on 24 May from 7:40 am (Michael Chapman) to 8:37 am (Merle). All of these summiters stopped for the night in C4 between 11:00 am and 1:00 pm. They descended to C2 on the 25th and BC on the 26th.

  Oxygen was used by all members sleeping in C3 to their high points to and in C4; those who went down to C2 on the 23rd continued using it to C2. Sherpas used oxygen in C4 to their high points to (but not in) C4.

  Members not in summit parties:

  Barnes climbed to C2 on 22 April in the first party to occupy it. A family emergency arose back home, and he left the expedition on 3 May.

  Gottfurcht reached C2, then developed serious breathing problems and left on 8 May.

  Iliopoulou never got above BC; she was unhappy and left on 27 April.

  Sherpas:
    Danuru Sherpa, 26/10/78, Phortse, Everest X11, Cho Oyu X8, Manaslu X1
    Dawa Nuru/Danuru, 19/5/59, Phortse, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X5, Makalu X1
    Dawa Sona/Da Sonam, 5/12/65, Pangboche, Everest X8, Cho Oyu X2
    Dorje Lama, 7/4/71, Churung Kharka, Bhakanje, Solu, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2
    Kalden Phura, 27/2/87 (15/11/2043), Pangboche, no 8000ers
    Kanche Nuru, 5/12/87, Pangboche, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Kancha Nuru, 30/11/82, Phortse, Everest X2
    Karma Gyalzen, 23/4/87 (10/1/2044), Phortse, no 8000ers
    Karma Rita, 21/7/76, Phortse, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X2
    Mingma Chhiring, 26/4/72, Phortse, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X2
    Mingma Dorje, 22/7/65, Phortse, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X2
    Mingma Tenzing, 1/6/86, Phortse, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X4
    Nima Karma, 30/6/83 (16/3/2040), Phortse, Everest X3
    Nima Nuru, 20/6/71 (6/3/2028), originally from Thame, now Khunde and Pangboche
    Pasang, 12/8/78 (28/4/2035), originally from Salleri-9, now Thamo, Everest X1
    Pasang Nuru, 30/1/73, Pangboche, Everest X1
    Pasang Rinji, 18/1/77, Phortse, Everest X3
    Phinzo/Phinjo Sherpa, 23/4/71, Everest X5, Manaslu X1
    Phinjo Dorje, 3/89/86, Pangboche, Everest X2, Cho Oyu 23/9/07
    Phu Tshering, 24/8/77 (8/5/2034), Phortse, Everest X1
    Sanduk Dorje Tamang, 31/5/83 (17/2/2040), Pangboche, Everest X4
    Tseten Dorje, 28/4/79 (15/1/2036), Pangboche, no 8000ers


expid: EVER10181
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: David Hahn
sponsor: Rainier Mountaineering (RMI) Everest Expedition 2010
approach: Phakding->Namche->Debuche->Pheriche->Lobuche
bcdate: 2010-04-07
smtdate: 2010-05-25
smttime: 0653
termdate: 2010-05-28
campsites: BC(07/04,5426m),C1(14/04,6035m),C2(22/04,6492m),C3(30/04,7315m),C4(23/05,7950m),Smt(25/05)
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  Brown, Grom, Hahn, Jones, Waterfall, Whittaker, Pasang Tendi, Pasang Temba, Tshering Dorje, Dawa Jamba, Nima Tenji and Dawa Gyalzen started their summit bid from C4 at 11 pm on 24 May. First one to reach to the top was Waterfall at 6:53 am on 25 May. By 7:40 am all members and Sherpas were on the summit. They stayed on summit from an hour to 30 minutes. Then descended to C4 at 10:30 am. Hahn and Whittaker slept at C4. Rest of the members descended to C2. Next day all went down to BC. Summit day weather was warm and nice but cold feet, good visibility. Ahead of Hahn's team on summit were about 5 climbers of the Himalayan Guides team. Behind them were about 20 climbers. 

  The members returned to Kathmandu on 30 and 31st May. Members will leave Kathmandu on 1-4 of June. 

  Booker left the expedition around 20 April and left Nepal on 22 April; her high point was below C1; she was tired.
   
  Peele's high point was C3; he was supposed to assist other climbers.

  Suero spent a night at C3 on 30 April; next day he went down to BC; he was exhausted.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Pasang Tendi 27/10/83, Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha
    Pasang Temba, 27/10/86 (10/7/2043), Lukla, Chaurikharka-8, Solu
    Tshering Dorje 3/3/89 (20/11/2045), Beding, Gaurishankar-1
    Dawa Jamba, 17/9/78, Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha
    Nima Tenzi, 24/8/80 (8/5/2037), Beding, Gaurishankar-1, Everest X7
    Dawa Gyalzen, 21/8/87 (15/5/2044), Chaurikharka-2, Solu

  These Sherpas went up to C4:
    Lama Babu, 23/9/68, Bung-9
    Nawang (Ngawang) Lhakpa, 17/1/72, Chaurikharka-3
    Kaji, 29/5/71, Tapting-9
    Chhongba Nurbu, 49 years old, Chaurikharka-7


expid: EVER10128
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Yoon Wang-Yong
sponsor: 2010 Bareum Everest Expedition
approach: Phakding->Namche->Pheriche
bcdate: 2010-04-12
smtdate: 2010-05-17
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2010-05-21
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),C1(23/04,6000m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(28/04,7000m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(17/05)
accidents: Yoon got frostbite in middle finger on right hand and both toes
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  Yoon, Baek, Kim, Chhiring, Lhakpa Chhiring and Sona left C4 at 9:30 pm on 16 May. Yoon turned around from about 8600m below the South Summit due to frostbite. Baek, Kim, Chhiring, Lhakpa Chhiring and Sona reached to the top at 11:30 am on 17 May. They stayed on summit about 30/40 minutes, then descended to C4 about 5 pm. On 18 May they slept at C2 and on 19 May down to BC. Summit day weather was good at the start and in the morning. But while descending wind was blowing from Tibet side. Also started snowfall, sometimes it was a white-out. There were maybe 16-17 climbers summited on that day. 

  Yoon was flown out by helicopter from BC to Lukla on 20 May and same day to Kathmandu by plane. He left Kathmandu on 22 May. 

  Jeong suffered from chest pain at BC. He left BC on 24 April arrived Kathmandu 26 April and left Kathmandu on 27 or 28 April. 

  Rest of the members returned to Kathmandu on 24 May and will leave on 28 May.


expid: EVER10127
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Portugal
leaders: Angelo Sousa
sponsor: Portuguese Everest Expedition
approach: Phakding->Tengboche->Dingboche->Lobuche->Gorakshep->Kalapattar
bcdate: 2010-04-14
smtdate: 2010-05-17
smttime: 0745
termdate: 2010-05-20
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(14/04,5200m),C1(17/04,6100m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(28/04,7200m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(17/05)
achievment: 1st Portuguese from south side
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal permit
routememo:
  Sousa, Nima Gombu, Pasang Tenzing and Tshering Pemba spent night of 15 May at C4. They started their summit bid on 16 May at 8:45 pm. The team got to the summit at 7:45 am on 17 May. They stayed on summit for about 15 minutes and descended to C4 where they reached at 11:00 am and spent the night there. Ahead of the Sousa's team there were about 11-12 climbers on the summit. The team also met on summit Chinese team from north side. Summit day weather clear sky and calm wind. They spent night of 18 May at C2. On 19 May they the team reached BC. 

  Sousa returned to Kathmandu on 22 May and left same day. 

  Fernandez got sick. He did not go to BC. He left Kathmandu on 8 or 9 April. 

  Sherpas:
    Nima Gombu Sherpa, 2/1/69, Beding, Everest X14, Cho Oyu X3
    Pasang Tenzing, 1/10/84, Beding, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X5
    Tshering Pemba, 22/11/85, Beding, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1, Manaslu X1


expid: EVER10126
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Guillermo (Willie) Benegas
sponsor: Patagonian Brothers Argentine Biscentenrio 2010
countries: Argentina, Canada, Guatemala, Italy
bcdate: 2010-04-11
smtdate: 2010-05-23
smttime: 0823
termdate: 2010-05-29
campsites: BC(11/04,5350m),C1(18/04,6100m),C2(25/04,6500m),C3(21/05,7180m),C4(22/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
accidents: McLean had kidney stone problem
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  Damian Benegas, Guillermo Benegas (Willie), Chiocconi, Dawson, Deza, Galosi, Cardona, Proverbio, Puente, Lhakpa Nurbu, Phurbu Gyalzen, Pasang Jangbu, Ang Gyalzen and Tul Singh started their summit bid from C4 at 9 pm on 22 May. The team reached the top at 8:23 am on 23 May and stayed on summit for 45 minutes. Most of the members back to C4 by 12 noon. Willie returned to C4 at 5 pm; he was engaged in rescue work. All members descended to C2 and slept there except Willie and Chiocconi who spent night at the top of the icefall helping Eva Maria Zarzuelo from Spain who fell down into the icefall about 30m due to fall of the ladder on which she was crossing. She was not clipped on the fixed rope. Willie and Chiocconi helped Eva Maria with tent, medication and oxygen. Eva Maria was evacuated from the top of the icefall by helicopter to Pheriche on 25 May. Willie and Chiocconi accompanied her to Pheriche and went back to BC on same helicopter. Rest of the members went down to BC on 25 May. 

  Pasang Illa (Yila) was a standby Sherpa at C4. 

  Willie's team returned to Kathmandu on 29 May by helicopter. The team will leave on 2 June.

  McLean had kidney stone problem and left BC on 4 May by helicopter to Kathmandu; he left on 7 May.


expid: EVER10125
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Pedro Jose Garcia
sponsor: Spanish Group to Everest
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-04-09
smtdate: 2010-05-24
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2010-05-28
campsites: BC(09/04,5200m),ABC(14/04,6435m),C1(24/04,7050m),C2(29/04,7600m),C3(23/05,8350m),Smt(24/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/midcamp on 13 April at 5750m.

  Alfredo Garcia, Pedro Jose Garcia and Ortubay started their summit bid from C3 at 10:10 pm NST on 23 May. All the way up snow was falling. Snowfall stopped near summit. Ortubay turned around from 8400m. He was climbing without supplimentary oxygen and was tired. Pedro Garcia and Alfredo Garcia reached the top at (about) 10 am on 24 May. They stayed on summit for about one hour. They descended to C3 where they arrived at about 7 pm and spent night there. Next day descended to ABC. Mexican doctor told Pedro Garcia and Alfredo Garcia to go down to CBC. They continued to CBC. 

  Dawa Nuru went up to C3 [and then summited the next day with Bousnaid Bouadjar; Dawa climbed with two Thamserku Trekking teams]. 

  Two Garcias returned to Kathmandu on 27 May and to leave on 29 May. Ortubay returned on 29 May and will leave on 3 June. 

  Sherpa:
    Dawa Nuru Sherpa, 18/2/78, Thami

accidents:
  Pedro Jose Garcia got frostbite (right ear, left-hand little finger, right-hand index, middle and little fingers); Alfredo Garcia suffered from pulmonary edema while descending


expid: EVER10124
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Luc Boisnard
sponsor: Everest 2010 Cleaning Expedition
approach: Phakding->Namche
bcdate: 2010-04-23
smtdate: 2010-05-23
smttime: 0500
termdate: 2010-05-25
othersmts: Climbed Gokyo Peak on 17 April; Lobuche East on 22 April
campsites: BC(23/04,5800m),C1(29/04,6100m),C2(04/05,6400m),C3(11/05,7100m),C4(22/05,7950m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Expes.com Treks
routememo:
  Boisnard, Pemba Tenji, Ang Jangbu and Chumbe started from C4 at 8:30 pm on 22 May. They got to the top at 5 am on 23 May and stayed on summit for 20 minutes. It was clear sky but windy 35-45 Km/hr. Boisnard got back to C4 at 8:30 am, then to C2 where they arrived at 2 pm and slept there. Next day to BC. Boisnard said that on his way down he crossed more than 150 climbers. 

  Boisnard returned to Kathmandu on 29 May and to leave on 31 May. 

  Boisnard expedition was a cleaning team having 3 climbing Sherpas and seven Sherpas to bring down garbage. The team brought down to BC 1011 kg of garbage of which 524 kg was delivered to SPCC and rest of garbage brought to Kathmandu.


expid: EVER10123
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Bousnaid Bouadjar
sponsor: Stages et Expedition to Everest
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-04-09
smtdate: 2010-05-24
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2010-05-27
campsites: BC(09/04,5300m),ABC(14/04,6400m),C1(18/04,7000m),C2(22/04,7500m),C3(23/05,8300m),Smt(24/05)
achievment: 1st [ethnic] Algerian from north side
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Bouadjar and Dawa left C3 on 23 May at 9 pm. They reached summit at 9 am on 24 May and stayed on summit for about 20 minutes, then descended to C3 where they arrived at 11 am. Then to C2, where they spent the night. Next day Bouadjar and Dawa went down to ABC. The weather on summit was cloudy. 

  Bouadjar returned to Kathmandu on 29 May and will leave on 30 May.

  Sherpa:
    Dawa Nuru Sherpa, 18/2/78, Thami


expid: EVER10122
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Prem Dorchi Lama
sponsor: Independent on Everest
approach: Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2010-04-04
smtdate: 2010-05-17
smttime: 0728
termdate: 2010-05-20
campsites: BC(04/04,5350m),C1(16/04,5900m),C2(20/04,6500m),C3(22/04,7200m),C4(16/05,7950m),Smt(17/05)
achievment: 1st person to climb Everest from Karnali zone
agency: Nima Gombu Sherpa (Trekking Camp Nepal pmt)
routememo:
  Lama left C4 at 9 pm on 16 May. He reached the top at 7:28 am on 17 May and stayed on summit for 35 minutes. Lama descended to C4 around 12 noon and spent the night there. He went down to C2 on 18 May and next day 19 to BC. 

  Lama returned to Kathmandu on 22 May. It was Lama's first 8000m summit.


expid: EVER10103
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Wangchen Sonam
sponsor: Holy Mountain Adventure 2010 Everest Expedition
smtdate: 2010-05-17
smttime: 0545
campsites: BC,ABC(6500m),C1(7028m),C2(7790m),C3(8300m),Smt(05/17)
agency: Holy Mountain Adventure
routememo:
  Holy Mountain Adventure 2010 Everest Expedition

  Leaders:
     Wangchen Sonam (leader)
     Tsering Samdrup (climbing leader)

  11 Chinese clients (total)

  6  Chinese Summiters, May 17, 2010 (all times are CST)

     Hu Jie (aka Black), 8:00 am, from Wuxi, Jiangsu Province
     Yuan Lei (aka Rabbit), 8:00 am, from Wuxi, Jiangsu Province
     Fang Ping, 9:31 am
     Sun Mian, 9:35 am (from Shantou, Guangdong, born 1953)
     Ding Ye-Sheng (aka TinTin), 9:35 am
     Luo Zheng-Hao, 9:52 am

  9  Tibetan H-A Assistant Summiters, May 17, 2010

     Dompa
     Dorje Tsering
     Luda
     Ngawang Dorje
     Norbu Dhondup
     Pasang Tarke
     Pemba Dhondup
     Pemba Tsering
     Tashi Tsering

  3 Chinese clients reached 8800m at 10:10 am on May 17, but turned back just below summit due to high winds and an oncoming storm.

     Xu Gang, from Shanghai (to 8800m)
     Luo Yi (to 8800m)
     Mo Shan-Shan (to 8800m)

  2 Chinese clients reached 8700m on May 17, but turned back due to health reasons.

     Zhang Wei (aka Wolf), from Wuxi, Jiangsu Province
     Du Guo-Rong (aka Adu), from Wuxi, Jiangsu Province

  The team descended to C3 (8300m) and then continued on down to C2 (7790m) at 9:40 pm. On May 18 they descended to C1 (7028m) and onto advanced base camp (6500m).

  In addition, 4 Tibetans setting the fixed ropes summited on May 17 or before.

     Chimi Tashi
     Kedup
     Tenzing
     Wangdu


expid: EVER10120
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Bangladesh
leaders: Mohammad Abdul Mohit
sponsor: Bangla Expedition to Everest
bcdate: 2010-04-11
smtdate: 2010-04-25
termdate: 2010-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(11/04,5200m),ABC(17/04,6400m),C1(25/04,7000m),xxx(25/05,7000m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  The first time the team went to North Col, they stayed one night. The team descended from the North Col on the same day that the Hungarian climber died in the serac fall.

  They descended to ABC on 26th April and stayed one night. On 27th they descended to BC, where they stayed until 6th May.

  On 7th May, they went back to ABC and on 19th May they ascended again to C1 for the summit push. However, the weather was bad and the winds were high. They stayed for two nights, but they decided to abandon the expedition due to the bad weather forecast. On 21st May, they descended to ABC.

  Mohit slept on oxygen for the first night at C1.

  Sherpas:
    Nima Gyalzen Sherpa, Beding, Rolwaling, 9/8/85, Everest X4
    Phurba Tenji Sherpa, Beding, Rolwaling, 15/1/89, Everest X2 in 2007

    Both are brothers of Pemba Dorje from Beding.


expid: EVER10121
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Taiwan
leaders: Lin Yong-Fu
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-04-12
smtdate: 2010-05-18
smttime: 0705
termdate: 2010-05-22
campsites: BC(12/04,5200m),IC(5800m),ABC(6400m),C1(15/05,7027m),C2(16/05,7790m),C3(17/05,8300m),Smt(18/05)
agency: CTMA
routememo:
  This team climbed as part of the Chinese Holy Mountain team, but went to the summit one day later.

  Program:

   Apr 12 - arrived in BC
   Apr 12-May 14 in BC & ABC (altitude adaption and waiting for suitable weather)
   May 15 - ABC -> C1
   May 16 - C1 -> C2
   May 17 - C2 -> C3
   May 18 - C3(00:08 CST) -> Smt(9:20 CST=7:05 NST), stayed 1 hr 5 min -> C3(17:00)
   May 19 - C3 -> C2
   May 20 - C2 -> ABC
   May 21 - Stay ABC (rested and packed)
   May 21 - ABC -> BC
   May 22 - Departed BC


  Lin Sheng-Hung (son of Lin Yong-Fu)- 10 Nov 2010 (email)

  The story what I heard was that Mr. Hu's physical condition was not very well at 8800m, but he still had oxygen.

  According to what Hu said, although he was really very tired, there was still a chance for him to summit with a slow tempo (due to time was still early) if the assistant accompanied him. But the second Nepali assistant (Kul Bahadur Magar) often pointed to dead bodies around to attack his confidence and finally left him behind at 8800m. Yes, Kul Bahadur Magar did summit. But as an assistant, he thinks he is not qualified. 

  Hu sat at 8800m, took breath with his oxygen, and looked at the dead bodies around pointed by Kul Bahadur Magar. "To become a hero or to become a body. It was a struggle in my mind," Hu said. He ponderred a lot and soon lost power to move forward.


expid: EVER10117
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Anil Bhattarai
countries: China, UK, USA
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-04-14
smtdate: 2010-05-23
smttime: 0550
termdate: 2010-05-28
campsites: BC(14/04,5200m),ABC(04/18,6400m),C1(22/04,7100m),C2(21/05,7800m),C3(22/05,8300m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Himalayan Ecstasy Treks
routememo:
  Facebook Posting:

  Kenny
  Chomolungma Expedition 2010 
  A brief summary

  Organising company: Himalayan Ecstasy, Nepal
  Team members: Expedition leader: Anil Bhattarai
  Climbing guide: Roshan Bhattarai
  Nga Tenji Sherpa
  Lakpa Sherpa
  Climber: Ed Laughton
  John All David
  Kenny Cheng
  Route: North/North East Ridge, Everest, Tibet.

  Nepal
  I was the last team member to arrive at Kathmandu, on 4 April 2010. The team spent the next two days packing and performed last minute checking of everything before departure.

  Tibet
  7 of us departed for Kodari, the border crossing point in the early morning of 7 April. Our expedition truck has departed for Tibet the night before. We arrived there after a 4.5 hours ride. After we cleared the Chinese customs, we entered Tibet in the early afternoon. Our welfare was then taken over by the China Tibet Mountaineering Association, CTMA. Traveled on their land cruisers, we shortly arrived at the town of Zhangmu (èæñÿ) at 2,200m and stayed overnight. The weather was excellent.

  We left early again the next morning (8 Apr) and continued going up. After about 1.5 hours ride, we arrived at our next stop Nyalam (ƒÙ¿$ƒæ) at 3,600m. It was a significant gain in altitude in very short time and we planned to stay here for 2 nights. The temperature dropped a lot; it was cold and windy, but the sky remained clear. On 9 Apr, we went to a nearby hill for an acclimatization hike, going up to 4,400m or more.

  On 10 Apr, we left Nyalam and continue to our next stop Tingri (?®»’), where we also planned to stay for 2 nights. The road lead up to Thongla Pass at 5,000m, before descending down to Tingri at 4,200m. On the way to Tingri, we have our first view of Everest in Tibet. The ride last about 4 hours. The weather was still great at Tingri, but the wind was even stronger with occasional dust storm in the afternoon. The next day (11Apr), half of the team (3 guides) left for Everest base camp for preparation work while the rest of us have another acclimatization hike on a nearby hill, where I could have good view of Everest and Cho Oyu.

  The Climb
  On 12 Apr, we continued our journey to Everest base camp. It was a bumpy ride and again a significant gain (1,000m) in altitude. After a rough 4 hours ride, we arrived Everest base camp at 5,200m. All the tents have already been set up by our guides the day before. Many teams have already set up their base camp, including the Chinese team which had 11 climbers. We stayed in base camp in the next few days, acclimatizing. At base camp, our team recruited two Tibetans as kitchen staff and porter, and with our expedition cook also joining us a few days after we reached base camp, our team have a total of 10. 

  During this period, we walk up and down a nearby peak. We have also visited the old Rongbuk monastery as well as the tea houses nearby base camp. Before we pack up for advance base camp (ABC) we have our own “Puja” on 15 Apr. After the ceremony, our guides started to pack our gears, to be transferred to ABC by yaks. The weather was mostly fine during the day, but we started to experience evening snow and even a few thunderstorms. 

  The team left for intermediate camp on 17 Apr, while I stayed one extra day at base camp for more acclimatization, and also because of stomach problem. On 18 Apr, despite the stomach problem, I continued to intermediate camp at 5,800m, while the rest of the team continued their journey to ABC. I stayed there in the next 2 days due to my problem, and also the fact that there was no food at the camp. We ended up need to ask for some instant noodles from the Chinese; they were very kind. It was very windy up there; it almost blown my tent downhill.

  On 21 Apr, I was good enough to continue walking up to ABC and reached there after a 7 hours walk. I then spent the next few days resting and prepare the gears and stuffs to be transferred to higher camps, and visited the other teams around as well. Weather at ABC was unstable and generally deteriorating, and temperature keep dropping. One morning, while walking around, I have some problem with my eyes and I lost some of my vision. I was not sure what the problem was, and decided to rest and see if that will clear up by itself.

  26 Apr was a day to remember. I was supposed to climb up to the North Col, camp 1, but something bad happened. Our guide Dippen was extremely sick after waking up. A doctor from the Chinese team came across to our camp and confirmed his problem was Appendicitis and need an operation in hospital ASAP. A team consisted mainly of Nepalese Sherpa was formed immediately to carry Dippen down to base camp, follow by road transport back to Kathmandu. Most of our guides were involved and therefore our trip to North Col was aborted. Not long after Dippen has left us, an avalanche occurred near the bottom of the North Col. One climber was buried and one other was injured. We were lucky…

  With most of the guides went down to base camp, and my eye problems persist, I decided to descend. On 28 Apr, I reached base camp after another 7 hours walk. It was snowing hard during the last 3 hours of the journey. I spent the next few days resting and tried to figure out what was going wrong in my eyes, which were still bad. It was then concluded that most likely I was suffering from retinal haemorrhage, and the best option was to descend. It was a hard decision to make but after spending few more days, more or less alone, thinking, I decided to go home. The weather was getting worst now and the team was deciding to retreat to base camp as well.

  I radioed Anil at ABC, telling him my decision, and he came down to base camp on 5 May, helping to arrange my journey back to Nepal. On 6 May, I pack up and left base camp for the journey to Zhangmu. The rest of the team also retreat to base camp on the same day and wait for the weather to improve. On 7 May, I returned to Kathmandu and was transferred to the hospital for eye check. Doctor confirmed I have haemorrhage in both of my eyes, and vision of my left eye was seriously affected. However, it should heal itself after about 6 months.

  The rest for the team finally have their summit bid open up after weather report indicating good weather around 22-24 May. On 16 May, they walk up to ABC and stayed there a few days to prepare for the summit attempt. They started their push on 20 May and in the early morning of 23 May 2010, Ed, John, Ngaa Tenji and Lakpa reached the top of the world. They all went down safely and left the mountain on 28 May to conclude an overall successful expedition. 

  Kenny
  June 2010


expid: EVER10116
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Namgyal Sherpa
sponsor: Extreme Everest Expedition 2010
bcdate: 2010-04-24
smtdate: 2010-05-22
smttime: 0845
termdate: 2010-06-01
campsites: BC(24/04,5300m),C2(20/05,6600m),C4(21/05,8000m),Smt(22-23/05)
agency: Mountain Consult
routememo:
  On 22 May Namgyal, Ngawang, Nima, Ngima Nuru and Dorje, members of Extreme Everest Expedition left C4 at 3:30 am and reached the summit at 8:45 am. They stayed on summit approximatelly one hour then descended to C4 at 7 pm. Next day 23 May the team went down to C3. On same day Pasang left C4 at 1:30 am and got to the summit at 8 am. He stayed there for 30 minutes and went down to C3 at 8 pm on 24 May. The team spent night at C2 and on 25 May at C1. On 26 May all went down to BC. The team brought down to BC 2500 kg of garbage. Besides the garbage the team also brought down two dead bodies from 8000m. The body of Uwe Johannes Goltz from Switzerland who died in 2009, buried in Baudha Kathmandu. The other body was that of Sergei Duganov who died on Lhotse on 7 May 2010. They planned to bring down the body of Scott Eugene Fischer who died on 11 May 1996, but those plans were canceled (his family wished for the body to remain on the mountain).

  The expedition included 18 Sherpas besides the six summiters in collecting and bringing down garbage collected from the mountain.

  The Extreme Everest expedition was conceived by friends of Save the Himalaya and operated by Mountain Consult.


expid: EVER10101
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Dawa Steven Sherpa
sponsor: Asian Trekking Eco-Everest Expedition 2010
countries: Canada, Finland, India, Mexico, USA
bcdate: 2010-04-11
smtdate: 2010-05-17
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2010-05-26
campsites: Smt(17,22/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  The Asian Trekking Eco Everest expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Asian Trekking provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Mika Pitamaki (Finland)
  Timo Allan Ilmari Jaatinen (Finland)

  Name:  None
  Camps: BC(16/04,5350m),C1(19/04,6100m),C2(21/04,6400m),C3(20/05,7100m),
         C4(21/05,8000m),Smt(22/05)
  Left:  25/05/2010
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success

  Summit team left C4 at 11:30 pm on 21 May. It was clear and cold and very calm. There were about 40 to 50 people on the fixed ropes. Straightforward climb. They spent two hours on the summit as the views were so good. They left the summit at about 10:20 am and descended to C4, where they arrived at about 1:30 pm. They spent the night there and carried on to C2 the next day. Back to BC on 24th May. They took a helicopter back to Kathmandu on 25th May.

  Oxygen:
    From C3 to summit to C3 by Pitkamaki, Jaatinen and Sonam 
    From C4 to summit to C4 by Phurba Tenzing

  Sherpas:
    Sonam Tshering, 17/2/88 (5/11/2044), Kharikhola, Solu, no 8000ers
    Phurba Tenzing, 36 years old, Thamiteng, Khumbu, no 8000ers


  David Liano (Mexico)

  Name:  None
  Camps: BC(18/05,5350m),C2(19/05,6400m),C3(20/05,7100m),C4(21/05,8000m),Smt(22/05)
  Left:  26/05/2010
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success
  Other: Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-101-05) and attempted Everest North (EVER-101-02)

  After having been up to the North Col on the north side with Bill Burke, Liano went back to Kathmandu, where he stayed for four days and on 18th May he took a helicopter to EBC.

  As he was already acclimatized, Liano and Pasang Rita went straight up to C2 on 19th, C3 on 20th, C4 on 21st and summited on 22nd.

  They left C4 at 11:30 pm. There was a big traffic jam on the Hillary Step. On the summit at 8:30 am they had good views. They stayed for about 45 minutes. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 11:30 am. After having rested for one hour, Liano carried on to Lhotse C4 (7800m), where he arrived at 3 pm. Pasang Rita descended to C2. Another Sherpa, Pasang Norbu, was waiting at Lhotse C4 for him.

  Oxygen:
    Liano from C3 to Everest summit to C4 on Lhotse
    Pasang Rita from C4 to Everest summit to C4

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Rita, Yilajung, Khumbu, 12/7/1974, Everest X3


  Cleo Weidlich (USA)

  Name:  None
  Camps: BC(12/05,5350m),C1(13/05,6100m),C2(14/05,6400m),C3(15/05,7500m),
         C4(16/05,8000m),Smt(17/05)
  Left:  27/05/2010
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success

  Dawa Tshering and Weidlich left C4 at 12:20 pm. The weather was clear and calm. Weidlich tried to climb without the use of supplementary oxygen and reached the top of the Balcony without it. When she got there she had a dry throat and she was getting cold, so she decided to use oxygen. Straightforward climb. They stayed on the summit for about 45 minutes, however, no views. Complete white-out. On the way down, they ran out of oxygen on the bottom of the Hillary Step and carried on without. On the descent, Dawa Sherpa also helped a Nepali climber and they assisted Rick Firmer of Kenton Cool's team, who needed some helped near C4.

  The weather turned very bad at around 2 pm. There was a complete white-out and it was was tough getting down. Weidlich and Dawa Sherpa reached C4 at about 6 pm. On 18th May they descended to C2, where they stayed until 22nd May before they ascended again to C3 to tackle Lhotse.

  Oxygen:
    Weidlich from top of Balcony (8500m) to summit to 8700m
    Dawa Tshering from C4 to summit to 8700m


  Sherpa:
    Dawa Tshering, Thami, Khumbu, 19/11/66, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X3


  Serge Massad (Canada)

  Name:  None
  Camps: BC(15/04,5350m)
  Left:  17/05/2010
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Did not attempt climb

  According to Kaju of Asian Trekking, the pair reached base camp and stayed a couple of nights and left again.


  Bhagyashree Sawant (India)

  Name:  None
  Camps: BC(25/04,5340m),C1(2/05,6300m),C2(03/05,6400m),xxx(22/05,6400m)
  Left:  25/05/2010
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 6400m due to high altitude sickness

  High point at 6400m due to high altitude sickness.

  Sawant spent a night in C2 on way down to BC on 23 May. Next day to BC. 

  Sawant returned to Kathmandu on 29 May and will probably leave on 2 or 3 June. She wants to try Everest from north side in autumn. If not allowed then will try from south side.

  Sawant suffered from HAS at 6400m on 22rd (severe headache, loss of memory, lost appetite, could not speak properly).

  Sherpa:
    Tenzing Dorje, 19 Nov 1970, Phortse, Everest X4


  Mamta Sodha (India)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(11/04,5300m),C1(20/04,6000m),C2(22/04,6400m),C3(20/05,7000m),
         C4(21/05,8000m),Smt(22/05)
  Left:  26/05/2010
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success

  Mamta and Nawang Karsang left C4 between 10-10:30 pm on 21 May. They reached summit at 10:07 am on 22 May and stayed on summit for 30 minutes. Apa Sherpa was also there on summit. Mamta and Nawang descended to C4 at 4:30 pm spent the night. On 23 May went down to C2, slept there and next day to BC. Summit day weather was good bit windy. 

  The team returned to Kathmandu on 29 May and will leave on 2 June.

  Sherpa:
    Nawang Karsang Sherpa, 26/11/67, Khumjung, Everest X2


  Arun Vajpai (India)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(11/04,5334m),C1(20/04,6000m),C2(22/04,6400m),C3(20/05,7200m),
         C4(21/05,7900m),Smt(22/05)
  Left:  25/05/2010
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success

  Vajpai and Tshering Phinjo along with other climbers of Asian Treks Eco Expedition team left C4 between 9:30 pm to 10 pm on 21 May. Vajpai and Tshering Phinjo reached to the top at 6:33 am on 22 May. They stayed on summit for about 20 minutes, descended to C4 and continued to C2 where they reached between 3-4 pm, spent night there. Next day to BC. 

  Ahead of Vajpai there were about 15 climbers on the summit. At the beginning there was a little snowfall, but after about 45 minutes it stopped and weather became clear, but a little bit windy. Vajpai said that it was amazing to see sunrise coming from below. 

  Vajpai returned to Kathmandu on 25 May and will leave on 31 May. Vajpai plans to climb Lhotse next year. 

  Sherpa:
    Tshering Phinjo, 29/04/73 (17/1/2030), Khumjung, Everest X1


  Unassigned climbing Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa (summited with Weidlich)
    Nima Tshering Sherpa (summited with Vajpai)
    Pasang Temba Sherpa (summited with Apa Sherpa)


expid: EVER10102
peakid: EVER
year: 2010
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Hari Bahadur Basnet
sponsor: Asian Trekking Dream Everest Expedition 2010
countries: Belgium, Hungary, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Lithuania, Mexico, Spain, USA
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2010-04-07
smtdate: 2010-05-23
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2010-05-27
campsites: Smt(23/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  The Asian Trekking International Everest expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Asian Trekking provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high-altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Martin Byrne (USA)

  Name:  None    
  Camps: BC(11/04,5200m),ABC(18/04,6400m),C1(25/04,7000m),C2(24/05,7800m),
         C3(25/05,8300m),xxx(25/05,8300m))
  Left:  23/05/2010
  Hired: 3
  Term:  Abandoned at 8300m due to high winds, bad weather

  Team left C2 at 10:45 am on 25th May. The weather was windy and snowy all the way up to C3, where they arrived at about 6 pm. The weather had cleared a bit by then. They were going to push for the summit the same night, but it was too windy. They were going to leave C3 at 9 pm, but it was impossible to go. They waited for a while but as the weather had not improved by midnight and they saw some teams that had turned back, they decided to abandon their summit push.

  The next morning at 9:30 am it was still snowing and windy, so they decided to go down to C1, where they arrived at 5 pm. The weather stayed bad all the way down to C1. On 27th May they descended to ABC.

  Oxygen:
    Byrne and Sherpas from C1 to high point to C1

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa, Khijiphalate-2, Okhaldhunga, 28/7/72, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1
    Lhakpa, Rawadole-1, Okhaldhunga, 24/12/1973, Everest X1
    Phuri Sherpa, Khijiphalate, Okhaldhunga, 14/03/84, 1st 8000er


  Kazufumi Watanabe (Japan)

  Name:  None    
  Camps: BC(11/04,5250m),ABC(17/04,6400m),C1(28/04,7050m),xxx(05/05,7500m)
  Left:  23/05/2010
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned at 7500m due to lost tent at C1 & C2 from high winds

  On 5 May Watanabe climbed to C2 to pitch tent. It was a windy day. He descended to ABC on 17 May. He ascended again to C1 and C2, but found that his tents were blown away at both camps. He took 8 hours to get to C2 from ABC. He decided that he could not carry on due to the loss of his tents. He descended to ABC on same day.


  Geert van Hurck (Belgium)

  Name:  None    
  Camps: BC(12/04,5200m),ABC(19/04,6400m),C1(01/05,7000m),C2(21/05,7800m),
         C3(22/05,8300m),xxx(23/05,8800m)
  Left:  26/05/2010
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 8800m due to his being upset by dead body

  Van Hurck and Gyaluk Sherpa together with Nakamura and Nima Kancha, who were also climbing with the Asian Trekking team, left C3 at 8 pm. The weather was calm and clear. Many people on the way.

  Just below the 3rd Step, Van Hurck saw the body of a dead climber. It upset him so much that he decided to abandon his climb. He turned around at about 6 am and descended to C2, where he arrived at 3 pm.

  On 24th May he descended to ABC.

  Oxygen:
    Van Hurck from C1 to high point to C1
    Gyaluk Sherpa from C3 to high point to C3

  Sherpa:
    Gyaluk Sherpa, Patle-5, Okhaldhunga, 21/08/1975, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1


  Yoshiharu Nakamura (Japan)

  Name:  None    
  Camps: BC(12/04,5200m),ABC(19/04,6400m),C1(01/05,7000m),C2(21/05,7800m),
         C3(22/05,8300m),xxx(23/05,8600m)
  Left:  26/05/2010
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 8600m due to problem with oxygen

  Nakamura and Nima Kancha left C3 at 8 pm. They were climbing together with Geert van Hurck and Gyalu Sherpa, who were also part of the Asian Trekking team. The weather was calm and clear. Many people on the way.

  Nakamura had problems with his oxygen mask and he thought that if the problem was getting worse he would get into trouble. He turned back at 8600m at 1 am (NST), and descended to C1 where he arrived at 3 pm.

  The following day, 24th he descended to ABC.

  Oxygen:
    Nakamura from 7200m to high point to 7200m
    Nima Kancha from C3 to high point to C3

  Sherpa:
    Nima Kancha, Pare, Namche-7, 19/7/75 (3/4/2032), Everest X2


  Manual Sanjuan (Spain)

  Name:  Spaniard on Everest    
  Camps: BC(14/04,5200m),ABC(18/04,6400m),C1(25/04,7000m),C2(21/05,7700m),
         C3(22/05,8300m),Smt(23/05)
  Left:  26/05/2010
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success

  On 22nd May, Sanjuan and Phur Gyalzen left C3 at 8:30 pm. Weather was good, a little bit windy. No people at the steps. They stayed for about half an hour on the summit as they were waiting for the sun to rise. There were four or five people on the summit, who came from the Nepal side.

  They descended to C1, where they arrived at 5 pm. On 24th May, they descended to BC. Sanjuan was part of the Asian Trekking group and was the only one of team to reach the summit.

  Oxygen:
    Sanjuan from C2 to summit to C2
    Phur Gyalzen from C3 to summit to C3

  Sherpa:
    Phur Gyalzen, Yilajung, Khumbu, 16/4/1970, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X2


  William Burke (USA)
  David Liano (Mexico)

  Name:  Eco Everest Double North    
  Camps: BC(11/04,5200m),ABC(18/04,6400m),C1(25/04,7000m),C2(20/05,7800m),
         C3(22/05,8300m),xxx(22/05,8700m)
  Left:  27/05/2010
  Hired: 3
  Term:  Abandoned at 8700 due to exhaustion

  High point at 8700m at 2nd Step at 1 am.

  On 22nd May the high point team left C3 at 8:30 am. The weather was good until they reached the ridge, where it got very windy and cold. Burke was feeling strong until he reached the ridge and he felt the altitude. When they reached the 2nd Step he felt very exhausted and he thought that he probably could make it to the summit, but not down again, so he decided to turn back. They descended to C3, rested there for a while and then carried on to C1, when they arrived at about 6 pm. The next day they descended to ABC.

  Liano and Phur Gyalzen reached the North Col for acclimatization on 25th April. When Liano was back at ABC he developed a chest pain and as his father had suffered from a stroke he did not want to take any risks. He decided to leave BC on 15th May and went back to Kathmandu, where he arrived on 16th May. He stayed in the Yak & Yeti for two days. As he was feeling better and the Norvic clinic could not find any thing wrong with him he decided to go to the south side of Mount Everest. He took a helicopter to BC on 18th May.

  Oxygen:
    Burke from C1 to high point to C2
    Mingma and Sonam Bhote from C2 to high point to C2

  Sherpas:
    Phur Gyalzen, Yilajung, 16/4/70
    Mingma Sherpa, Yilajung, 21/2/68
    Sonam Bhote, Makalu-Barun, 25/7/1979


  David Klein (Hungary)
  Laszlo Alfred (Konyi) Varkonyi (Hungary)

  Name:  Dreher 24 Everest Expedition    
  Camps: BC(07/04,5100m),ABC(11/04,6400m),C1(25/04,7000m),xxx(26/04,7200m)
  Left:  29/04/2010
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned at 7200m due to fatal avalanche 

  BC at normal site
  C1 at North Col.

  The two man team were on the normal North Col route. From ABC, which they established on 11 April at 6400m, they went up to the site for C1 and returned to ABC to rest. They set up C1 at the North Col on the 25th, and next day started climbing above the Col. It was very windy, so at 7200m they turned back to descend to ABC.

  They had gotten down to about 6800m at 12:00 noon (Nepali time), when an ice serac collapsed above them; it broke into pieces and gathered snow as it moved down the mountain. Its ice blocks first hit Varkonyi, who was at 6800m, 15-20 meters above Klein. Klein was then hit by snow and ice which was now rolling down the mountain.

  Klein was left hanging on a fixed rope and was rescued by Sherpas, who pulled him up and helped him get onto his feet. His right arm was badly bruised and very painful; he got back to ABC at 2:00 pm.

  But Varkonyi had disappeared. Klein had expected him to pull him up, but the Sherpas who did said that they could not see him. Sherpas from several expeditions (this team had none with them) did the best they could to search for him that day and the next, but the avalanche area was very unstable and dangerous, and they found no trace of Varkonyi where they felt it was safe to look.

  Whereas the avalanche carried Klein down a short distance with it, it apparently did not move Varkonyi down the mountain. Klein believes his teammate was hit from above and covered by the fallen ice, which still covers him at 6800m.

  Klein returned to BC on the evening of the 27th, and back in Kathmandu a few days later, he thought, but wasn't certain, that he had left BC on the 28th and was back in Kathmandu on the 29th, but actually he had left BC on the 29th and checked into his hotel on the 30th.


  Aldona Skeraityte  (Lithuania)

  Name:  Lithuanian on Everest     
  Camps: BC(12/04,5200m),ABC(19/04,6400m),C1(01/05,7000m),xxx(01/05,7000m)
  Left:  26/04/2010
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 7000m due to bad health, AMS 

  Skeraityte had not been feeling well during most of the expedition. She reached C1 on 1st May, which was her highest point. However, when the team went on the summit push, Skeraityte wanted to join. She got to C1 on 20th May, but did not feel well. She spent one night and when the rest of the Asian Trekking team ascended to C2 she descended to ABC, where she saw the doctor of Alex Abramov's team. She was told that she had mild AMS.

  Oxygen:
    Taken, not used

  Sherpa:
    Phura Nuru, Tesho, Namche-5, 28/6/85, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2


  Tamas Seregi (Hungary)

  Name:  Hungarian to Everest     
  Camps: BC(07/04,5200m),ABC(15/04,6200m),xxx(20/04,6800m)
  Left:  25/04/2010
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 6800m due to bad feeling about expedition 

  Seregi did not reach the North Col. He was on his way up on 21 April and decided he did not feel happy about the expedition. So he returned to ABC and thought it all over again. He decided to leave on 24 April.


  Marco Chiantore (Italy)

  Name:  None   
  Camps: xxx(7000m)
  Left:  
  Hired: 
  Term:  Did not attempt climb 

  Chiantore was only on a North Col permit; he was not on an Everest permit. But he was contemplating going further, had he felt like it. However, Chiantore went to North Col returned to KTM.


expid: EVER11168
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Gerard Bourrat
sponsor: Everest 2011 Cancer Survivor
bcdate: 2011-04-15
smtdate: 2011-04-27
termdate: 2011-05-12
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to weakness from prior lung surgery
campsites: BC(15/04,5200m),IC(20/04,5800m),ABC(21/04,6400m),C1(27/04,7000m),xxx
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Bourrat only reached the North Col before quitting due to weakness from prior lung surgery (Bourrat is a lung cancer survivor).

  Sherpas:
    Pasang
    Phurba
    Finjo


expid: EVER11170
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Tatsuo Matsumoto
sponsor: MME Everest Expedition 2011
approach: Lukla->Namche->Debuche->Dingboche->Lobuche
bcdate: 2011-04-19
smtdate: 2011-05-19
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2011-05-22
campsites: BC(19/04,5300m),C1(23/04,6000m),C2(26/04,6500m),C3(17/05,7300m),C4(18/05,7950m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Adventure Extreme
routememo:
  Matsumoto and Nima Tenzi left C4 for summit at 10:15 pm on 18 May in strong wind. They got to the summit at 11 am on 19 May. Matsumoto and Nima Tenzi stayed on summit 40 minutes and descended to C4 about 5 pm. They spent the night there. Next day 20 May both went down to BC. Matsumoto said that more than 50 climbers summited on that day. It was windy before the Balcony and rest of the day the weather was very good.

  Sherpa:
    Nima Tenzi, 23/8/80 (7/5/2037), Gaurishankar-1, Dolakha, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X4,
      Manaslu X2


expid: CHOY10346
peakid: CHOY
year: 2010
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Marti Gasull
approach: Kodari
bcdate: 2010-09-10
smtdate: 2010-09-23
termdate: 2010-10-03
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to avalanche danger, no provisions
campsites: BC(10/09,4800m),ABC(13/09,5500m),C1(18/09,6300m),C2(23/09,7100m),xxx(30/09,7100m)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Gasull intended to go for the summit when he left ABC on 28 Sept; [upon arrival at C2] his Sherpa did not want to stay at C2 as he was worried about avalanches. Gasull did not have any provisions or a tent at C2 [to stay alone]. He descended to C1 where he stayed one night. He decided to abandon expedition; however he was very angry at his Sherpa.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Gyalzen, 30/9/64 (15/6/2021), Walung, Makalu-9, Cho Oyu X3, 
      Dhaulagiri X1


expid: AMAD11105
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Juan Carlos Martinez Sancho
sponsor: Rider of the Lost Dablam
bcdate: 2011-04-23
smtdate: 2011-04-25
termdate: 2011-04-29
termnote: Abandoned at 5700m due to bad weather
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(23/04,4600m),C1(25/04,5700m),xxx
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  See Spanish internet blog by Alfonso Machancoses at 

    http://www.ventsdemuntanya.com/blog/expecicion-ama-dablam-6812m/


expid: AMAD11106
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Volodymyr Khytrykov
sponsor: Ukrainian Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Russia
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Island Peak->Pangboche
bcdate: 2011-04-02
smtdate: 2011-04-24
termdate: 2011-04-29
termnote: Abandoned at 5700m due to bad weather
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (all)
campsites: BC(22/04,3860m),C1(24/04,5700m),xxx(24-25/04,5700m)
agency: Makalu Adventure
routememo:
  Grushinikov, Khytrykov, Volshyn and Zhagornikov spent two nights at C1. Weather was bad so decided to give up climbing and went down to Pangboche. 

  Members Egunova, Novichkov and Safronov climbed Island Peak and did not go to climb Ama Dablam.


expid: ANN411101
peakid: ANN4
year: 2011
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Nirma Rai
sponsor: Nepalese Women Annapurna IV Expedition
ascent1: 35th
approach: Bhulbhule->Dharapani->Chame->Pisang->Manang->Hungde->Subje Khola
bcdate: 2011-05-12
smtdate: 2011-05-31
smttime: 0500
termdate: 2011-06-04
campsites: BC(12/05,4500m),C1(16/05,5000m),C2(17/05,5500m),C3(18/05,6000m),C4(30/05,6500m),Smt(31/05)
agency: 3 Sisters Adventure
routememo:
  Four members of women's team and four Sherpas left C4 at 1 am on 31 May in snowfall which stopped at about 4 am below the summit. The team got to the top at 5:00 am. They stayed on summit for about 5 minutes, it was windy.

  While descending about 30 minutes, the fresh snow below summit broke which swept all climbers about 125 meters down. Tendi, the climbing guide said that all were in a panic. Fortunately, nobody was hurt and it took them about an hour to regroup and they safely went down to C2 around 5 pm and spent the night there. Next day all descended to BC.

  Sherpas:
    Tendi Sherpa, Tapting-6, 1954 (26 yrs in 19/7/1980 (2037/44/4)),
      Cho Oyu 2006
    Dorje Sherpa, 22/6/1970 (8/3/2027), Dimbil, Tapting-9, Solu, Lhotse X1,
      Makalu X1,Cho Oyu X1
    Nurbu Tshering Lama, 29/5/1983 (15/2/2040), Samti Bhandar-3, Ramechap
    Ngima Dorje Tamang, Gorakhani-7, Solu, 3/12/1973 (18/8/2030)


expid: EVER11171
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Allan Cohrs
sponsor: Himalayan Ascent Everest Expedition 2011
countries: Denmark, Sweden
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2011-04-08
smtdate: 2011-05-20
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2011-05-24
campsites: BC(08/04,5300m),C1(15/04,6100m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(27/04,7200m),C4(19/05,7950m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Himalayan Ascent
routememo:
  Ms. Burke, Cohrs couple, Helander, Lakpa, Ang Kaji, Jangbu, Dendi and Mingma left C4 at 7:30 pm on 19 May for summit. Burke and the Cohrs couple reached summit at 9:30 am on 20 May and Helander at 10:30 am. Team members and Sherpas stayed on summit between 45 minutes to one hour. The team returned C4 at around 4 pm and spent the night there. Next day 21 May the team spent night at C2 and on 22 May they descended to BC. 

  Carlin climbed up to 7000m on 27 April and returned to C2. He spent night there and next day 28 April he went down to BC. 

  Ledet left C4 at 8:20 pm on 11 May for summit; when he arrived at 8500m between 2-3 am, the wind started picking up (60 km/ph); then he turned around to C4 at 5 am. He rested 3-4 hours, then went down to C2. On his second attempt Ledet left C4 at 8 pm on 19 May. He reached at 8500m at 1 am on 20 May and suffered from chest infection, so turned around to C4 at 4 am. He rested there, then went down to C2 and slept there. Next day Ledet descended to BC.

  Oxygen:
    Members C3 to smt to C3
    Sherpas C4 to smt to C4

  Sherpas:
    Lakpa Sherpa, 25/7/68, Tamku-9, Makalu
    Dendi Sherpa, 18/11/85 (2042/8/3), Choplung, Jubing-3
    Ang Kazi Sherpa, 11/5/78 (28/1/2035), Sisuwakhola-9, Everest X4, Manaslu X1
    Jangbu Sherpa (Gore), 20/7/87 (4/4/2044), Sisuwakhola-9, Sankhuwasabha
    Mingma Chhiring Sherpa, 25/12/86 (10/9/2043), Hatiya-3


expid: EVER11172
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Leela Mani Paudyal
sponsor: Nepal Civil Servants First Mt Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2011-04-19
smtdate: 2011-05-18
smttime: 0510
termdate: 2011-05-21
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(19/04,5300m),C1(01/05,6100m),C2(02/05,6400m),C3(16/05,7200m),C4(17/05,7900m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Mountaineering Training Academy Development Cmtee
routememo:
  Padam Bahadur Bhandari, Tulsi Ram Bhandari, Dhakal, Gautam, Guragain, Maharajan, Pokhrel, Shrestha (Gyanendra Kumar), Shrestha (Suber) and 15 Sherpas left C4 at 7:30 pm on 17 May. Mingma Thinduk of the expedition team reached summit at 5:10 am of 18 May followed by Gautam at 5:20 am and last member to reach summit was Bhandari (Padam Bahadur) at 7 am. Members stayed on summit between 10 to 15 minutes and went down to C4 where they reached between 2-4 pm. Bhandari (Padam Bahadur), Pasang Nurbu, Kami and Lhakpa Nuru spent night at C4 and rest of the members and Sherpas went down to C2 and slept there. Next day all members and Sherpas got down to BC.

  Durga Prasad Bhattarai went up to C2; he got leg problem and voice problem.

  Laxman Bhattarai went halfway into the Icefall; he was physically weak and stayed at BC as coordinator.

  Giri went up to C2 and suffered from chest pain, cough and vomit.

  Paudel went halfway into the Icefall and suffered from HAS.

  Paudyal went up to C2; he left BC early as he was called up to join as Home Secretary.

  Rijal went up to the beginning of the Icefall and suffered from HAS.

  Supplementary Oxygen used:

  Eight summit members used oxygen from 6600m and Gautam used from C3 to summit and back to C2. Sherpas used from South Col to summit to South Col.

  Sherpas:
    Mingma Dorchi, 18/8/1987 (2/5/2044), Makalu-5
    Kami, 29/6/1966 (15/3/2023), Sedua, Makalu-5, Everest X2, Makalu X1, Cho Oyu X1,
      Manaslu X1
    Dorchi/Dorje, 1/12/1979 (15/8/2036), Makalu-9, Everest X1, Makalu X2, Lhotse X1
    Karma, 20/8/86, Balakharka, Makalu-5, Everest X1
    Pemba Thinduk, 18/4/1982 (5/1/2039), Makalu-9, Upper Walung, Everest X2, 
      Lhotse X1
    Mingma Thinduk, 14/4/1969 (2/1/2026), Makalu-5, Upper Walung, Nurbugaon
    Na Tenji (Ngawang), Makalu-9
    Pasang Nurbu, 21/12/72 (7/9/2029), Nurbugaon, Walung-9, Everest X4, Lhotse X1, 
      Kang X1
    Peme, 21/9/65, Tashigaon, Everest X4
    Lakpa Nuru, 1962, Tate, Chaurikharka-7
    Pasang, Makalu-4
    Pasang, Makalu-5
    Lhakpa, Makalu-9
    Ngima Dorchi, 29/1/83 (15/10/2039), Makalu-9
    Tashi Lhakpa, 18/11/85, Makalu-9, Mathilow, Walung, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X1


expid: EVER11169
peakid: EVER
year: 2011
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Marek Novotny
sponsor: Everest North Side Expedition
approach: Kodari->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2011-04-14
smtdate: 2011-04-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to strong winds that blew away his tent and equipment
campsites: BC(14/04),ABC(6400m),C1(28/04,7100m),C2(29/04,7700m),xxx
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  April 1 through April 7 was spent in Khumbu to acclimatize while waiting for Chinese visa from embassy in Kathmandu.

  Account of Marek Novotny's Everest attempt (Google translation from Czech):

    http://www.extreme-sports.cz/team-extreme-sports/

  Category: Extreme Sports Team
  08.04.2011 at 11:37
   
  Marek Novotny

  Member of Team Extreme-sports.cz and mountaineering club in Czeike went last week to climb Mount Everest. The plan is clear. Climb the highest mountain in the world alone and without oxygen. In the last interview Marek commented on their preparation. Yesterday he described his first steps. "1.4 I flew to Lukla. Had seven-hour flight delay. That same day I arrived at 4:45 to Namche (elevation 600 m). The next day I graduated in three hours Namche-Tengboche route (3860 m). In Tengboche I climbed the hill to the local height 4150 m. The next day I waited three hour trip to Pheriche. From here, I crawled to Lobuche (4910 m). Here I am waiting for a well-deserved sleep. After a rest I'm from the south reached the base camp of Everest, which is at an altitude of 5364 meters. Later that day I ran out to Kala Patthar 5545 m 4.6 I waited in line to Namche Bazar Lobuche. I spent the night in Namche and Lukla Thursday pushed in the direction. Trek seems to me. Everything is fine and acclimatization are perfect, even though it was a quickie. All you health." 

  Marek Novotny

  Category: Extreme Sports Team
  14.04.2011 at 10:26

  Marek Novotny sent us a few lines further on their experiences of traveling to the summit of Mount Everest. 4.7 arrived back in Kathmandu. "This day off I used to buy important things like the tent pegs, gas bombs and ropes. Previous evening I dined with Radek Jaros, who is preparing himself to climb Lhotse". In the evening 08.04 Marek learned that getting a visa to Tibet. "The night that followed after I received the news of my nevpusteni to Tibet was terrible. I kept wondering what could be wrong, but the morning turned out to be all right, so I 04.09 get into Tibet. Next day I Nyalam arrived. Here I made a couple of outputs at the local hill. Then move to Tingri and 4.14 I should arrive at the base camp of Mount Everest."

  Category: Extreme Sports Team
  03.05.2011 at 11:01
   
  Mount Everest

  We present a summary of other recent reports from Marek Novotny. Extreme athlete is currently back at base camp. During the last days of his tent at an altitude of 7700 meters above sea level. 4.27 We went from BC to ABC-6400 m. He managed me for 7 hours. 4.28 I arrived at C1. After passing the night I went to C2, which is at an altitude of 7500 meters above sea level. Failed to find me a suitable platform until 7700 m. was such miniplacek. I think it is exactly the place that I have at the first attempt to climb Mount Everest shared with Roman. At 6 o'clock I started to build a tent. It was the first and only tent erected in C2. Around the tent has undergone only a couple of Sherpas. At night it was -40 ¡ C. I did not sleep. After 17.5 hours in C2 I descended to ABC. 1.5 I descended to BC. There like a strong storm. Marek in BC resting and waiting for suitable weather. At the top wants to sprout between 6 and 12 in May. Then the plan is as follows. 5.13 - ABC 6400 m. 5.14 - C1 7100 meters above sea level. 5.15 - C2 7700 meters above sea level. 5.16 - C3 8300 meters above sea level. 5.17 - The peak of Mount Everest

  Category: Extreme Sports Team
  23.05.2011 at 9:32

  Marek is back home from trying to solo ascent of Mount Everest. Strong winds swept the tent ready in C2 (7500 m). The necessary equipment was gone. Snow storm continued, and so is Marek returned to base camp. What was the last phase of the output can be found in an article we wrote immediately upon arrival to the CR. Almost one month after the preparatory work on the mountain, I decided that the 6th May I start from BC to ABC 5200 m 6400 m above sea level - where I start my final attempt to conquer Everest without supplementary oxygen. In BC, I rested for the fourth day, after I stepped down after an incredibly cold night of C2. Sixth, I went from BC to the twenty-three kilometer trek glacial moraines in the center of ABC. After a seven-hour output, and I arrived just as the last snow storm in the back I crawled into the tent. My plan was to stay two days in the ABC and 9.5. 2011 for the third time to go to northern saddle, and that's what I did. On the ninth day for me came Sherpa Dawa, who informed me that the guys from the Chinese Association of climbing fixed ropes stretch from the third camp sooner than 5 days. The whole time it was considered that the peak has been long fixed. This report in no way nerozhodila me. I decided to exit the option without the use of fixed ropes. Of course, I hoped that some of those old markers will be there. Weather that day was absolutely perfect. Everest without his cap and wind over the northern saddle beautiful cloudless blue sky. I always thought, especially do not hurry, do you have time. The later you get to C1 the better for you. So I have breakfast (toasted stale toast and one egg), packed specially prepared packages of energy output for four days and went to other than himself. The previous two outputs strengthen me so that I literally May 9 to C1 ejected, because I managed to exit the north wall for three hours and thirty minutes. I was surprised that such a thing is possible. Tent in C1 I found covered with snow, and so began my work. Stan, I rescued a little repaired and started cooking. Of course, after what I Serak of ice the size of a skyscraper chipped off a few ice cubes, which I melted in my mess tin amazing. Everything played until eight o'clock in the evening, it started snowing and I stopped. At four o'clock in the morning I discovered that the walls of my tent closer to my face so much that I was forced to get dressed, get out of the tent and assess the situation. Getting out was not easy. I felt a mess tin lid from the snow and began to throw out. Attacked as a meter of snow. When I successfully threw the snow off the tent, I found that I shovel yesterday extricate your tent is in tension. I continued promotion has thrown the lid of the EGTC. After two hours it was done and the first frostbite were in the world. Completely exhausted and totally hands zmrzl?ma I hid in the tent and started cooking. Not for a second I thought that I should not continue their attack. I had a soup, drank 0.5 l isotonic drinks, packed up and went to C2. Even when I was shoveling snow around the tent, so I passed around a group of high-rise Sherpas who carried additional oxygen clients are likely to C3. So I thought great, at least it will be Down in a little pluck and the boys certainly sunk fixed ropes, as I did it a few days ago.

  Category: Extreme Sports Team
  24.05.2011 at 16:12

  Yesterday we published the first part of the narrative of Marek Novotny for his ascent of Mount Everest. Today you can read how it all works out. After retiring from C1 to C2 up after twenty minutes I found that Sherpas fixed ropes and found that the C2 is the output I have accomplished without the use of fixed ropes. Okay dude, I think you have to be careful, you can not lose your balance and it will be good, just go. I walked twenty steps and then rested. I stuck the ax in front of him and leaned on his forehead. When the ax sank smoothly into the ice, I saw a beautiful translucent blue and I found myself in the vicinity of a crack. I accelerated and instead of twenty steps I took 40th After six hours I arrived at the foot of the rock at an altitude of 7500 meters above sea level where it begins C2 and continued in heavy rain and increasing winds another 300 vertical meters to his tent. Fixed ropes on the rock was already available when needed. This time I'm just not mind and I just graduated from one platform to another in the dark looking for his white tent. When I thought I was too high, so I turned the altimeter and still did not understand that I'm not in his tent. Indeed, so high I did not stand him. After another fifty meters output in the snow I found the orange and blue stripes and I think it can not be out of my tent, so I climb on. After another thirty meters at last find his tent, at least what's left of it. Complete rags, or a stick, just shreds. I try to search the torso of a tent, but do not find anything. Most important thing for me was the gas. I was about seven hours after the output has fully exhausted and without water, I consume way up. All of what I enjoyed and what I was chased up the tent and crawled into the cook water. Snow storm grew and I had to quickly decide what to do. I looked around to see if somewhere there is a tent-based, but nothing I could find. And so with all the equipment went back to the C1. I wanted to dig up a tent there, take the gas and go again the next day to C2. And so I began to descend. After about two hours of cautious descent, which I enjoy every moment of his elevation brobodl crampons boots I turned and saw the silhouette. Was coming to me as undermining step. It was a sash Kadzi Bir, who was in charge of Polish friend. He was sitting somewhere in BC with pneumonia. When Bir came to me, so I knelt facing each other in the snow and leaned on each other faces. I was happy that I'm not alone there. Five minutes later we knelt and I asked if he Kadziho water. He pulled out a small half-liter bottle and poured me a glass maybe. He drank the same amount and continued the descent. I went after him, but because he had no burden, and I returned with a full field, soon disappeared in the gathering storm. I took out my camera and started filming hell and at that moment I realized how quickly begin to fade tracks, which went even a little while ago Kadzi. I got worried that he add, so lost in a storm and do not care to C1. I had to work hard to start more than 100%. Fortunately, I was from C1 only ten minutes, but I did not know. After coming to C1 storm intensified so much that I even thought to stop and start cooking. I kept saying, "You've got down as soon zaleze? the tent, already gone." So I passed my tent in C1 just passed, noticed two holes in it and just went on. Still at number one on me from the very last tent called Sherpa Dawa and shouted: "Marek, come inside to hide." I knelt in front of his tent and say, "I'm not going in, if you have some water, please give me a drink." Dawa was cooking and put me in a cup of coffee, which washed with hot water. I had after I drank a cup of energy of a bit more. I continued to descend further. About ten minutes later turn around and Dawa, together with other Sherpas descended as well. I asked what happened and Dawa responded that he can not stay at number one. And so I followed what were all number one went to ABC. There I decided that the next attempt without equipment, which I took up snow storm and then I quit.


expid: JOBO11301
peakid: JOBO
year: 2011
route1: SW Face
nation: UK
leaders: Steve Holmes
sponsor: British Jobo Rinjang Expedition 2011
approach: Lukla->Namche->Thame->Arya->Samnay Phus
bcdate: 2011-10-11
smtdate: 2011-10-15
termdate: 2011-10-19
termnote: Abandoned at 5400m due to warm weather, danger of avalanche and particularly rock fall
campsites: BC(11/10,5200m),xxx(15/10,5400m)
agency: Lasho Adventure
routememo:
  The team of Holmes and Phillips tried to climb up to C1 (6000m), but could not do so because of rock falls; snow rocks were loose and the weather was warm. At night it was -2. The days were warm. The team plans to return to Jobo Rinjang in winter next year.


expid: SAIP11301
peakid: SAIP
year: 2011
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Ernst Marti
sponsor: Marti Saipal Expedition
bcdate: 2011-10-11
smtdate: 2011-10-21
termdate: 2011-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to snowfall and high winds
campsites: BC(11/10,4050m),C1(12/10,4700m),C2(19/10,5800m),xxx(21/10,6300m)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  Ernst Marti - 14 Nov 2011

  Now this autumn we were two members and one Sherpa at Saipal. Besides me there was Mr Hans-Rudolf Gallati (you have his biodata from Ratna Chuli expedition) and Kanchha Lama Sherpa.

  We had no success regarding the summit, but much success regarding the very good time we spent in the Kherang Khola. We started our approach trek in Simikot at Oct 6th. Through Kermi, Yalbang and Chala we reached our basecamp in the Kherang Khola at 4050m at October 11th. One day later we put up Camp 1 at 4700m. After some days we put up Camp 2 at 5800m at October 19th. On October 21st we tried for the summit, but snowfall and strong high winds forced us to turn back. Our high point was short of Rani Peak at about 6300m. From there the long NE Ridge would be straightforward, but very exposed to the high winds.


expid: PUTH10305
peakid: PUTH
year: 2010
route1: NE Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Dirk Groeger
sponsor: Amical Alpin Putha Hiunchuli Expedition 2010
ascent1: 39th
countries: Austria, Switzerland
approach: Fly to Juphal, trek Barbung Khola->Tarakot->Laisicap
bcdate: 2010-10-04
smtdate: 2010-10-14
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2010-10-17
campsites: BC(04/10,4900m),C1(08/10,5450m),C2(12/10,6100m),C3(13/10,6500m),Smt(14/10)
accidents: Guenther Simon altitude sickness (evacuated with Almut Simon by helicopter from BC on 16 Oct)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Dirk Groeger - Feb 2012 (email to Billi Bierling)

  Putha Hiunchuli Amical Expedition Autumn 2010

  When did you arrive in Kathmandu and which hotel did you stay in?
  25.09.10 Shangri La

  When did you leave Kathmandu and how did you get to your exit point for BC?
  27.09.10 via Nepalganj and Juphal

  What was your approach to BC and which route were you intending to climb?
  Following Barbung Khola to Tarakot, Laisicap, then BC 4900m, NW Face

  When did you arrive at BC and at what altitude was it?
  04.10.10 ca. 4900m

  When did you sleep at C1 for the first time and at what altitude was it?
  08.10.10 5450m

  When did you sleep at C2 for the first time and at what altitude was it?
  12.10.10 6100m

  When did you sleep at C3 for the first time and at what altitude was it?
  13.10.10 6500m

  When did you summit (date and time)? Please state the names of all the members and their times (including Sherpas, if you had any with you)
  14.10.10 ca 10 o'clock Sepp Wrangler, Marc Faber, Regina Schallberger, Josef Muehlmann, Paul Sodamin, Pemba and Sonam Jangbu, Dirk Groeger

  On summit day, what time did you leave the last camp in the morning?
  4 o'clock

  What was the weather like? Sunny and nearly no wind

  Which camp did you sleep at on your way down and at what time did you arrive there?
  BC 7 pm

  What about the other members? Did they also summit and if not how high did they get (please name them individually) and why did they abandon the climb?

  Doris Sieber and Helga Behringer went to 7000m on 14.10 but they were to slow to reach the summit and turned back.

  Almut and Guenther Simon, Christian and Margit Merz reached C3 on 13.10. 
  Even though he was the strongest climber in the group, Christian Merz was not feeling well that day and decided to quit the expedition. His wife Margit never really intended to go to the summit. 

  Guenther Simon was feeling altitude sick and turned back. His wife could have made the summit but stayed with him.

  Bernhard Schmid left BC on 7/10/10. 
  It was the first expedition for him and he found it very hard mentally. He was too homesick to carry on and took helicopter from Karkot back to Kathmandu.

  Did you fix any rope yourself? No

  Did you have any Sherpas with you? If yes, can you give me their names and maybe the village they are from. And have your Sherpas summitted any 8000m peaks before this expedition? If you know, maybe you could give me the year as well.

  Pemba (Everest 2 times), Lower Lukla
  Sonam Jangbu, Lower Lukla (I will find out more about them)

  Which route did you climb? NW regular

  Did you use oxygen? No

  Did you take medical oxygen? Yes

  Any accidents or injuries?
  Height altitude sickness: Guenther Simon, flew out from BC by heli after return from C3 on the 16/10/10.

  When did you leave Base Camp to come back to Kathmandu? 17.10.10

  Members at the end: Everyone apart from Guenther and Almut Simon.

  When did you arrive in Kathmandu and which hotel did you stay in?
  22.10.10 Shangrila

  When did you leave Kathmandu to go back home?
  24.10.10

  Which trekking agent did you use? Thamserku


expid: BARU10312
peakid: BARU
year: 2010
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Michael Waerthl
sponsor: Amical Alpin Baruntse Expedition 2010
countries: Austria, Italy, Switzerland
approach: Lukla->Zatrwa La->Mera La->BC
bcdate: 2010-10-08
smtdate: 2010-10-14
termdate: 2010-10-23
termnote: Abandoned at 6550m due to high avalanche risk
campsites: BC(08/10,5450m),C1(13/10,6150m),xxx(14/10,6550m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Waerthl reached around 6550m on 14 Oct, but the avalanche risk was too high to go further. For all the other members and Sherpas C1 was the highest point, which they reached on 13 Oct.

  Except two or three days with heavy snowfall the weather was very nice.

  Waerthl said that the avalanche risk might be to high to try the summit these days, but Chuwang Nima tried it the day we left BC and died. 

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Chutin, Phakding area
    Pasang Tendi, Phakding area, climbed Xixabangma with Edurne Pasaban
    Nawang Gele, Phakding?


expid: AMAD11301
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Ruben Jimenez Gomez
sponsor: Namaste Berriozar Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: See route details
bcdate: 2011-10-16
smtdate: 2011-10-25
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2011-10-27
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak on 14 Oct
campsites: BC(16/10,4600m),C1(17/10,5700m),C3(24/10,6400m),Smt(25/10)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Approach: Lukla, Namche, Dhole, Machhermo, Gokyo, Chola Pass, Dugla, Chhukung, Island Peak, Chhukung, Pangboche.

  Jimenez and Loiarte left C3 at 5 am on 25 Oct for summit. Both got to the summit at around 8:30 am. They stayed on summit for 20 minutes and descended to C3 where they reached around 10 am. Both continued to descend to C1 and slept there. 

  Burillo started for summit at 8 am and got to the summit at 12:30 pm. He stayed on summit for 10 minutes and descended to C3 where he reached at 2 pm and to C1 at 7 pm. All went down to BC, next day to 26 Oct. The weather on summit day was windy in the morning, clear sky but cold.


expid: AMAD11302
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Nepal/Australia
leaders: Sumit Joshi
sponsor: Himalayan Ascent Ama Dablam Expedition 2011
countries: USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pheriche->Kalapattar->Pangboche
bcdate: 2011-10-11
smtdate: 2011-10-20
smttime: 0915
termdate: 2011-10-22
campsites: BC(11/10,4400m),C1(14/10,5900m),C2(15/10,6000m),C3(19/10,6300m),Smt(20/10)
agency: Himalayan Ascent
routememo:
  Culberson left C3 at 5:30 am for summit. He got to the top at 9:15 am and stayed on summit for 30 minutes, then descended BC same day. 

  Other member Bott went up to 5900m on 18 Oct and did not attempt the summit. 

  Leader of team Joshi left BC on 13 Oct due to business engagement back in Kathmandu.


expid: AMAD11303
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: William Dwyer III
sponsor: SummitClimb Ama Dablam Expedition 2011 (Group 2)
countries: France, Poland
bcdate: 2011-11-09
smtdate: 2011-11-23
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2011-11-25
campsites: BC(09/11),ABC(11/11,5350m),C1(15/11,5700m),C2(21/12,6050m),C2.7(22/11,6250m),Smt(23/11)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  The team had no leader. Bill Dwyer was called the organizer. He went to BC with the other two members, but stayed with them for only five days and did no climbing.

  The team, therefore, consisted of just four people: the two women members and one Sherpa with each of them.

  Joncheres, who was acclimatized since she had just come from Pakistan, and was a good climber, was unfortunately sick (diarrhea and fever). She managed to climb ABC on 13 November with Thile Nurbu and to C1 on the 14th, but then her ill health forced her to descend to BC on the 15th, and Thile Nurbu went with her. She left the mountain on the 16th.

  That left only Gorska and Tenji. They went up to ABC on 14 November, but returned to BC the same day. On the 15th they went up to C1 and on to C2, then returned to ABC to sleep and descended to BC on the 16th.

  Gorska needed to rest in BC because she had a slight case of bronchitis. On the 19th they went back to C1, spent two nights there, and on the 21st climbed up to C2. On the 22nd they continued up to C2.7 and on the following day, the 23rd of November, they went for the summit.

  Gorska and Tenji left C2.7 at 7:00 am on the 22nd and got to the top at about 3:00 pm. They were back in C2.7 at 5:00 pm. They reached BC on the 24th and went to Pangboche the following day. They flew to Kathmandu from Lukla on the 28th.

  Sherpas:
    Tenji Sherpa, 1/6/82, Patle, Everest X6
    Thile Nurbu Sherpa, 26/5/74, Chaplung, Khumbu, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X5, Lhotse X1


expid: AMAD11304
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Tyson Bradley
sponsor: Global Mountain Adventure Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Lobuche->Gorakshep->Lobuche Peak->Pheriche
bcdate: 2011-10-17
smtdate: 2011-10-25
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2011-10-27
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East by all members on 15 Oct
campsites: BC(17/10,4633m),C1(19/10,5791m),C2(24/10,6097m),Smt(25/10)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  Bradley, Gabbert, Wirthlin and Tshering Dorje started their summit push from C2 on 25 Oct at 2 am. Gabbert turned around 21,000 ft as his fingers got cold and difficult to move his fingers. He went down to BC same day. Bradley, Wirthlin and Tshering continued their climb and got to the summit, stayed for 30 minutes and descended to C2 where they arrived at 5:30 pm. They spent the night there at C2. Next day, 26 Oct all went down to BC. The weather on summit day was windy. The team was the first one to summit on that day. Behind the American team there was a Russian team going up to summit. 

  Reberg climbed up to just below C2 on 20 Oct. He had bad cough and went down to BC from C1.

  Sherpa:
    Tshering Dorje, 20/07/1970 (5/4/2027), Kharikhola, Everest X13, Cho Oyu X5


expid: AMAD11305
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Alexandra Robl
sponsor: Karwendel Express Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Germany
approach: Lukla->Namche->Tengboche
bcdate: 2011-10-17
smtdate: 2011-10-28
smttime: 1145
termdate: 2011-10-30
campsites: BC(17/10,4500m),C1(21/10,5700m),C2(27/10,6000m),Smt(28/10)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Robl and Lamprecht left C2 at 6:30 am on 28 Oct. Lamprecht got to the top at 11:45 am and Robl at 12 noon. They stayed on summit for 30 minutes then descended to C2 where they arrived at 2 pm. They continued to descend to BC at 6:30 pm. Summit day weather was perfect, no wind, there was cloud cover. No other climbers summited on that day. They had to wait 8 days in Lukla for their flight to Kathmandu.


expid: AMAD11306
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Max Kausch
sponsor: SummitClimb Ama Dablam Expedition 2011 (Group 1)
countries: Australia, Canada, France, Luxembourg, Poland, USA
bcdate: 2011-10-16
smtdate: 2011-10-29
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2011-11-01
campsites: BC(16/10,4500m),ABC(19/10,5450m),C1(21/10,5800m),C2(23/10,6500m),Smt(29-30/10)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  Nine of the team's members summited on two successive days, the 29th and 30th of October. 

  The only dropout was Sarnquist, who got to C2's site on 22 October and then decided that he was satisfied and had no interest in continuing as he had lost motivation.

  The successful climbers were:

  29 October: Hoffman, Kausch, McDonald, Meunier, Pattison and Shelton-Smith with Sange and Ang Pasang.

  30 October: Hamel, Pontinen and Suckling with Palden Nima, Tenji and Thile Nuru.

  Fixed rope: 45m below C2.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Pasang Sherpa, 15/6/84 (2/3/2041), Patle-4, Okhaldhunga, Everest X1
    Palden Nima Sherpa, 29/8/78, Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1
    Sange Sherpa, 21/5/71, Dinding, Sankhuwasabha, Lhotse X2
    Tenji Sherpa, 1/6/82 (18/2/2039), Patle, Okhaldhunga, Everest X6
    Thile Nuru/Nurbu, 26/5/74, Choplung, Chaurikharka-3, Solu, Everest X5, Lhotse X1,
      Cho Oyu X1


expid: AMAD11307
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Iran
leaders: Arman Hadad Momeni
sponsor: An Iranian on Ama Dablam
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2011-10-27
smtdate: 2011-11-01
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2011-11-08
campsites: BC(27/10,4700m),C1(29/10,5800m),C2(30/10,6100m),C3(31/10,6400m),Smt(01/11)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Hadad Momeni and Pemba left C3 at 8 am for summit. They got to the top at 1 pm and stayed on summit for one hour. They returned C3 at 4 pm and slept there. Next day 2 Nov slept at C1. On 3 Nov they went down to BC. The weather on summit day was good, clear on the summit. Ahead of Hadad Momeni team Korean team members were on summit and behind then were Spanish and other climbers.

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Sherpa, 28/01/1982 (15/10/2038), Lamabagar-1, Dolakha, summited Manaslu on
      29/4/2011 with Iranian team


expid: AMAD11308
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Iran
leaders: Parvaneh Kazemi
sponsor: Memorial of Leila Esfangdiari Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Tengboche
bcdate: 2011-10-21
smtdate: 2011-10-25
termdate: 2011-10-28
campsites: BC(21/10,4600m),C1(23/10,5800m),C3(24/10,6388m),Smt(25/10)
achievment: 1st Iranian woman to summit
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Kazemi and Nima started from C3 at 7 am for summit. They reached the top at 12:40 pm, stayed on summit for 40 minutes, then back to C3 at 3:30 pm and spent the night there. Next day 26 Oct they went down to BC. Weather on summit day was good and a little windy. Ahead of Kazemi there was some climbers of Thamserku Treks and after her there were Spanish and Sri Lankan climbers on the summit on that day.

  Sherpa:
    Nima Gyalzen, 9/8/1985 (25/4/2042), Beding, was on Manaslu in 2011 Spring


expid: AMAD11309
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Singapore
leaders: Ramli Ahmad
sponsor: Team Singapore Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2011-10-17
smtdate: 2011-10-23
termdate: 2011-10-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to campsite overcrowding and exhaustion
campsites: BC(17/10,4800m),C1(20/10,5900m),xxx(23/10,6000m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  On 23 Nov Ahmad brothers went up to C2. They did not find the place to pitch their tent in C2 and came down to C1. Next day went down to BC. On 29 they went to C1. They were exhausted and went down to BC. They gave up climbing. 

  Ramli said that there were many climbers, campsites were full of empty tents. They could not find enough space to put their tent in C1 too. They were stuck in Lukla for 8 days.


expid: AMAD11310
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Choong-Hwan
sponsor: Bucheon Alpine School Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Debuche
bcdate: 2011-10-20
smtdate: 2011-11-01
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2011-11-07
campsites: BC(20/10,4600m),C1(28/10,5800m),C2(30/10,6100m),C3(31/10,6400m),Smt(01/11)
accidents: Rhee minor frostbite (middle finger of right hand)
agency: Korean Treks & Expeditions
routememo:
  Kim Jung-Jae, Rhee, Min, Mingma Thinduk, Ngima and Lhakpa Wangel started their summit push at 6 am from C3 on 1 Nov. They got to the top at 1 pm, stayed on summit for one hour and 30 minutes, then back to C3 between 4-5 pm. The team slept there. Next day 2 Nov, slept in C1 and on 3 Nov to BC. The summit day weather has cold and windy.

  The second team consisting of Jo and Lee went up to C3 on 4 Nov and that was the high point for them. 

  Cho stayed on in BC throughout the expedition.

  Kim Myung-Kwang climbed up to C2 on 3 Nov. 

  Fixed rope: 100m from C3 to summit.

  Sherpas:
    Mingma Thinduk, 2/12/82 (17/8/2039), Nurbugaon, Makalu-9, Annapurna 17/4/10
    Ngima, 14/02/77 (3/11/2033), Nurbugaon, Makalu-9, Everest X1, Makalau X2, 
      Kangch X1
    Lhakpa Wangel, 19/8/66 (03/5/2023), Nurbugaon, Makalu-9, Makalu X3, Manaslu X1,
      Everest X1


expid: AMAD11311
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Benjamin Kane
sponsor: Field Touring Alpine Ama Dablam Expedition 2011
countries: Canada, USA
bcdate: 2011-11-18
smtdate: 2011-11-24
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2011-11-27
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(18/11,4900m),C1(22/11,5400m),C2(23/11,5950m),Smt(24/11)
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
routememo:
  Ben Kane (email) - 21 Nov 2012

  We didn't submit any return info for our trip, and I did think that was unusual as either Miss Hawley or an assistant usually approaches us upon our return to KTM. Anyway, you're correct, myself and 4 members summited between 11:30 am and 12:00 pm on the 24th of Nov. 

  Looking back at some notes it appears as though we arrived in BC (normal Ama Dablam BC) on the 18th Nov after our Island Peak climb. Moved to C1 (5400m) on the 22nd, C2 (5950m) on the 23rd, summit 24th. We departed BC on the 27th.

  These are the members who summited:
    Benjamin Kane (leader)
    Meagan McGrath
    Bryson McLellan
    Colin Carnahan
    Siddhi Bahadur Tamang

  There was nothing unusual except for some rather large crevasses opening up on the summit that were not present in Oct 2007 on my previous summit.


expid: AMAD11312
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Peter Schatzl
sponsor: Austrians to Ama Dablam
approach: Lukla->Pangboche
bcdate: 2011-11-17
smtdate: 2011-11-20
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2011-11-21
campsites: BC(17/11,4600m),C1(18/11,5200m),C2(19/11,6400m),Smt(20/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides permit
routememo:
  Shatzl, Kuehlechner and Pasang left C2 for summit at 6 am. They reached summit at noon and stayed on summit for 30 minutes. All three descended to C2 where they reached at 3:30 pm. Next day 21 Nov they went down to Pangboche. The summit day weather was perfect. Two Polish climbers and 1 or 2 Sherpas were on the summit ahead of the Shatzl team. One Russian girl with a Sherpa was behind the Austrian team. While descending the team met 5 or 6 climbers coming up.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Wangchu, 25/4/87, Cheram (not Cheramy) Bung, Solu


expid: AMAD11313
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Evgeny Burtsev
sponsor: Russian Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Helicopter to Surke->Phakding->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2011-11-18
smtdate: 2011-11-24
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2011-11-28
campsites: BC(18/11,4600m),C1(21/11),C2(22/11),C3(23/11),Smt(24/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Elgaev, Burtsev and Phurba started from C3 at 6:30 am. They got to the top around 1 pm. They stayed on summit for about 30 minutes, then back to C3 around 5 pm and slept there. Next day 25 Nov they spent night at C2. On 26 Nov they descended to BC. There was an American on the summit on that day.

  Sherpa:
    Phurba Ridar Bhote, 1958, Hatiya-1, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X4

  [Note: see further description descent in AMAD-113-72.]


expid: AMAD11314
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Liudmila Mikhanovskaia
sponsor: Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2011-11-17
smtdate: 2011-11-20
campsites: BC(17/11,4600m),C1(18/11,5700m),C2(19/11,6000m),Smt(20/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Mikhanovskaia and Dorje started from C2 at 3:30 am on 20 Nov. They reached the top at 12 noon and stayed on summit for about 20 minutes. The team descended to C2 where they arrived at 6 pm and slept there. Next day they went down to Pangboche. The summit day weather was very good but morning was windy. Three climbers and two Sherpas were on summit ahead of Mikhanovskaya team. Two Austrian climbers also got to the top, almost together with Mikhanovskaya. Behind this team there were about four climbers who went to the top on that day.

  Note: Mikhanovskaia is studying Tibetan Language in Kathmandu. 

  Sherpa:
    Dorje Sherpa, 1965, Everest X6
      He is from "Horsinga" Taksindu-3. He owns Buddha Lodge in Phakding and also
      owns a house at Simaltar-1, Kapan


expid: AMAD11315
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Denmark
leaders: Jakob Urth
sponsor: A Dane on Ama Dablam
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2011-11-14
smtdate: 2011-11-18
smttime: 0635
termdate: 2011-11-20
campsites: BC(14/11,4600m),C1(16/11,5800m),C2(17/11,6400m),Smt(18/11)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Urth left C2 for summit at 10 pm on 17th. He got to the summit at 6:35 am on 18th and stayed on summit for 30 minutes then descended to C2 where he reached at around 12 noon. Urth continued to descend C1 where he slept for 2-3 hours, then went down to BC at 6:45 pm. The snow ice condition between C2 to summit was good. While descending from summit to C3 it was windy. Other climbers who summited on that day were British or Americans and also some Polish.


expid: AMAD11316
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Martin Mayr, David Poechacker
sponsor: Garstner Tal Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Tengboche->Chhukung->Island Peak BC->Chhukung
bcdate: 2011-11-07
smtdate: 2011-11-16
smttime: 1548
termdate: 2011-11-18
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak on 6 Nov (both members)
campsites: BC(07/11,4600m),C1(11/11,5800m),Smt(16/11)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Mayr and Poechacker started their summit bid from C1 at 6:45 am on 16 Nov and reached to the top at 3:48 pm. They stayed on summit for 20 minutes. Both descended to C2 at 7 pm and slept in a tent left by Italian climbers who did not go to the summit. Next day Mayr and Poechacker went down to BC, Weather in the morning on summit day was sunny. When they got to camp 2.7 it started to snow and they waited there for an hour then started again. The weather was good on summit, but not very clear to see other peaks except Everest. It was little windy and very cold. Ahead of them Dawa Sherpa with a Spanish woman (Catalan) sumited. Mayr and Poechacker were the last ones to summit on that day.


expid: AMAD11317
peakid: AMAD
year: 2011
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Sri Lanka
leaders: Reshmin Amarasinghe
sponsor: Lanka Adventure Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Debuche->Pheriche->Lobuche->Gorakshep->Everest BC
bcdate: 2011-10-15
smtdate: 2011-10-25
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2011-10-27
campsites: BC(15/10,4650m),C1(20/10,5700m),C2(22/10,6000m),C3(24/10,6400m),Smt(25/10)
achievment: 1st Sri Lankan
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Amarasinghe and Gyalje left C3 for summit at 10 am on 25 Oct. They got to the summit at 3 pm. They met an Iranian women coming down from summit just below the summit. Amarsinghe and Gyalje stayed on summit for 15 minutes and descended to C3 at 4:30 pm. They spent the night at C3. Next day 26 Oct went down to BC.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Gyalje, 30/9/64, Upper Walung, Makalu-9


expid: BARU11301
peakid: BARU
year: 2011
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Daniele Fringuello, Marco Erbetta
sponsor: Premonte Baruntse Expedition
ascent1: 115
approach: See route details
bcdate: 2011-10-30
smtdate: 2011-11-05
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2011-11-08
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak on 27 Oct
campsites: BC(30/10,5400m),C1(03/11,6150m),C2(04/11,6450m),Smt(05/11)
agency: Monviso Treks
routememo:
  Approach: Thukay (behind Lukla), Chumathrum, Kothe, Tangnag, Khare, Mera La, Kongma Dingma, Seto Pokhari

  Fringuello and Lhakpa Nuru started their summit bid from C2 at 8 am on 5th. They got to the top around 2 pm, stayed on summit for about 30 minutes, then descended to C2 at around 5:30 pm and continued to BC. The summit day weather was foggy, no wind. Fringuello and Lhakpa Nuru were the only summiters on that day. 

  Erbetta went up to BC and did not go beyond BC; he was exhausted. He left BC on 3 Nov for Kathmandu.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa, 22/11/1980 (7/8/2037), Thami, Everest X7, Manaslu X1


expid: BARU11302
peakid: BARU
year: 2011
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Michael Garvin A'Court
sponsor: Jersey Baruntse Expedition 2011
approach: See route details
bcdate: 2011-10-30
smtdate: 2011-11-04
termdate: 2011-11-08
termnote: Abandoned at 6450m due to too tired
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak on 29 Oct
campsites: BC(30/10,5450m),C1(03/11,6150m),C2(04/11,6450m),xxx(04/11,6450m)
agency: Monviso Treks
routememo:
  Approach: Thukaling->Chuma Horum->Kothe->Tangnag->Mera La->Kogma Digma->Seto Pokhari

  Garvin A'Court and Tarke went up to 6450m on their summit push. Garvin A'Court was very tired and decided not to go to the summit.

  Sherpa:
    Tarke, 1967, Rakshi Kharka, Lokhim-4, Solu, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X5, Manaslu X2


expid: BARU11304
peakid: BARU
year: 2011
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Arnold Coster
sponsor: SummitClimb Baruntse Expedition 2011
ascent1: 112-113
countries: Australia, Belgium, Canada, Finland, Germany, Netherlands, Switzerland, USA
bcdate: 2011-10-28
smtdate: 2011-11-01
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2011-11-03
campsites: BC(28/10,5200m),C1(31/10,6100m),C2(01/11,6400m),Smt(01-02/11)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  BC at north side of lake 
  C1 on West Col
  C2 just before ridge.

  Summiters went to the top in two groups, on 1 and 2 November. They negotiated the large crevasse at 6850m by entering it at its far left end, descending into it and climbing back up, still at the far left end.

  The successful climbers in the first summit party, left C1 at 2:00 am on the 1st, got to the summit at 10:30 am and descended all the way to BC at 5:00 pm. They were Bryars, Staehelin and Van den Bos. Chhewang and Jangbu fixed 1700m of rope as they climbed from C1 that morning.

  The successful members of the second party consisted of Coster, Graeffe, Smith, Sotaniemi and Wolput, plus Jangbu and Nawang Nuri. This group did not climb together like the first one, Graeffe, Sotaniemi and Jangbu left C2 at 2:00 am, while Coster, Smith, Wolput and Nawang Nuri started out at 3:00 am. The two Finnish women, Graeffe and Sotaniemi, plus Jangbu, were the first to summit at 9:00 am.  They were followed by Wolput and Nawang Nuri at 12:00 noon; Coster at 12:30 pm; and Smith at 1:00 pm.

  Graeffe and Sotaniemi descended all the way to BC at 4:00 pm on the same day; Jangbu stopped at C2 at 4:00 pm. Coster and Smith did not arrive in C2 until 6:30 pm because Smith was quite slow. Everyone was back in BC the next day.

  The only health problem amongst the team were the mild frostbite that Ogasawara discovered he had on the fingers of his right hand after he had turned around at 7050m because he was too tired to continue (he went down with Lhakpa Kongle from Patle), and Wokka's mild illness, perhaps flu, and got no higher than 5800m on 31 October and left the team that day.

  Other unsuccessful members:
    Barclay never went for a summit push, twisted his knee on the approach to BC
    Bonfert never went for a summit push, stayed in BC
    Cotes turned around just after C2 on 2nd Nov around 6850m (very slow and weak)
    Etchen turned around at same point as Ogasawara at 7050m, descended with 
      Pasang Sherpa from Patle
    Krueger never left C2, he didn't feel good and went down to BC when we 
      where trying for the summit
    Newton turned around just before the summit (Coster picked him up on the way 
      down from the summit)
    Pendleton is Cotes boy friend and stayed together with her, so he also 
      turned around at 6850m (they descended with Lakpha Garmu Sherpa from Patle)
    Wuokka never went for a summit push, had a fever in BC

  Sherpas:
    Chhawang Karma Sherpa, 28/1/89, Patle, Okhaldhunga, no 8000ers 
      (in fact no climbs at all, just a kitchen boy)
    Gyalzen Sherpa, 13/9//90 (28/5/2047), Patle-4, no 8000ers
    Jangbu Sherpa, 24/7/67, Patle, Okhaldhunga, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X4, Lhotse X1
    Lhakpa (Kongle) Sherpa, 27/1/64, Patle, Everest X1
    Nawang Nuri Sherpa, 15/5/79 (1/2/2036), Patle-4, Okhaldhunga, no 8000ers


expid: BARU11305
peakid: BARU
year: 2011
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: David Bunting
sponsor: Himalayan Research Expedition 2011
ascent1: 117
approach: Lukla->Chutang->Thuli Kharka->Gondishung->Tangnag
bcdate: 2011-11-17
smtdate: 2011-11-21
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2011-11-23
campsites: BC(17/11,5400m),ABC(19/11,6000m),C1(20/11,6500m),Smt(21/11)
agency: Himalayan Ecstasy Treks
routememo:
  Cooke, Golding, Jacobs, Martin, Ralph Scott, Endra, Roshan, Nuru, Rinji, and Nga left C1 at 3 am on 21 Nov for summit. Cooke turned around from 6800m, with due to exhaustion. Ralph turned around from 6800m to BC due to tiredness.

  Golding, Jacobs, Martin, Scott, Endra, Roshan and Nuru continued their climb and got to the top at 11:30 am. They stayed on summit for 30 minutes, then returned to C1 at 4 pm. Endra, Roshan and Nuru went down to BC whereas the four summiting members spent the night at C1. Next day all four members went down to BC. The summit day weather was perfect. 

  Brightmore and Coulson went up to 5700m on 19 Nov; they were tired and did not try to go to summit. 

  Bunting got chest infection and left expedition on 14th;  he left Kathmandu on 19 Nov. 

  Fletcher climbed up to 6300m and gave up due to exhaustion. 

  Freeman went up to 4800m on 16 Nov and suffered from AMS. 

  Hand suffered from AMS on 22 Nov at 6500m and went down with Nga; she was flown to Kathmandu by helicopter and left Nepal on 26 Nov. 

  Holdsworth went up to 6500m; she was exhausted and did not try to go further up. Seims too went up to 6500m and did not try for summit due to exhaustion. 

  Rinji suffered from chest pain at 6500m and went down to BC. 

  Phu [Nuru] remained at BC.

  Hired:
    Endra Bahadur Rai, 17/07/75, Belsot, Tribeni, Udayapur, Everest 15/5/06
    Nuru Wangchu, 18/08/77 (2/5/2034), Pangboche, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X3, Manaslu X1
    Dipendra Roshan Bhattarai, 16/02/85 (5/11/2041), Hangdewa-6, Taplejung
    Rinji Sherpa, 10/03/85 (27/11/2041), Nurbugaon, Makalu-9, Everest X5, Manaslu X1
    Nga Tenji, 28/2/80 (16/11/2036), Nurbugaon, Makalu-9, Everest X5, Manaslu X1
    Phu Nuru, 18/11/1972 (3/8/2029), Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha


expid: CHAN11101
peakid: CHAN
year: 2011
route1: S Ridge via E Peak (Gave Ding)
nation: UK
leaders: Julian Freeman-Attwood
sponsor: British Far West Nepal 2011
approach: Nepalgunj->Simikot->unamed valley, 5 days from Surkhet
bcdate: 2011-05-08
smtdate: 2011-05-15
termdate: 2011-05-17
termnote: Permit taken for exploration of region
campsites: BC(08/05,4000m),xxx(15/05,5900m)
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
routememo:
  Freeman-Attwood wrote in his email that they went exploring in another part of the Changla Himal and never tried to climb Changla. He sent a report on the exploration in which he mentioned that the exploration team attempted to climb Gave Ding (6571m). The team went up to 5900m then turned around due to bad weather.


expid: CHOY11116
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: Bolivia
leaders: Bernardo Guarachi
sponsor: Father & Son Bolivian Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2011-04-18
smtdate: 2011-05-05
smttime: 1220
termdate: 2011-05-09
campsites: BC(18/04,4900m),ABC(20/04,5700m),C1(23/04,6400m),C2(28/04,6800m),C3(04/05,7400m),xxx(05/05,8000m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 19 April at 5400m
  C1 at half camp.

  The father and son team started their summit push from C3 at 6 am on 5 May. They got to the top at 12:20 pm and stayed on summit for 40 minutes. They could not see Everest as Nepal side was totally cloudy. Then they went down to C3 where they arrived at 5 pm. Both continued to descend to 6800m (half camp) and slept there. Next day 6 May went down to ABC. Guarachis said that the night of 4 May was very cold and windy. They could not sleep that night. At about 4 am of 5 May the wind stopped. 

  The father-son team showed me their photos of summit which has some peaks in the background. I copied the photos into my laptop and showed later to French climber Aymeric Vinot who summited Cho Oyu in the same season. According to Vinot the peaks in the background are in Tibet and can be seen from Cho Oyu BC. Vinot said that claimed summit photos are not of the Cho Oyu summit because the peaks in the background cannot be seen from the summit. Later, I talked to Korean climber Kim Jae-Soo who summited Cho Oyu, also said that no Tibetan peaks can be seen from the summit of Cho Oyu. The Bolivians high point may be a little above 8000m.


expid: CHOY11117
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Veronique Bruckert
sponsor: Trek-On-Line Cho Oyu Expedition 2011
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Email by Veronique Bruckert to Miss Hawley Nov 17, 2011

  I decided to return in France when I knew that the compression chamber had to stay in the base camp and that it would be impossible to me to call for help in case of emergency because I hadn't a satellite phone in my disposition. I thought that this expedition was too dangerous as I'm married and mother of three boys, I didn't want to take such a risk. So I left Tibet on April 6th, without going up to the base camp.


expid: CHOY11302
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Arnold Coster
sponsor: SummitClimb Cho Oyu Expedition 2011
countries: Brazil, Ireland, Netherlands, S Africa, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland
bcdate: 2011-09-07
smtdate: 2011-10-03
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2011-10-06
campsites: BC(07/09,4900m),ABC(10/09,5650m),C1(16/09,6400m),C2(20/09,7100m),C3(02/10,7450m),Smt(03/10)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  All summiters went to the top on the same day, 3 October. They left C3 at 1:00 am NST on the 3rd, but they reached the top at different times: Coster and Maybank with Jangbu at 7:00 am; Jaeggi and Lhakpa Gelu at 7:30 am; Savage and Da Jangbu at 8:00 am; and Jolis and Lieberberg with Tenji at 9:00 am. All returned to C2 for the night between 4:00 and 6:00 pm.

  Non-summiting members:

  Dos Anjos never reached BC; he turned back at Nyalam on the way to BC because he wanted to rejoin his family.

  Nerve and Robson climbed to C2 on 27 September. Then a snowstorm with very high winds hit the mountain, and they did not want to wait for improved weather, so they left the expedition on the 29th or 30th.

  Oxygen:

  Jolis, Lieberberg and Sherpas used none at all. All other members who reached C3 used it from C3 to the summit and down to C2.

  Sherpas:
    Da Jangbu/Dawa Jangbu Sherpa, 4/6/79, Patle-4, Okhaldhunga, Cho Oyu X1,
      Everest X1, Lhotse X1
    Jangbu Sherpa, 22/8/81, Kharikhola, Solu, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X4
    Lhakpa Gelu/Gelbu Sherpa, 13/4/77, Thumduk, Beni, Solu, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X6,
      Lhotse X1
    Tenji/Tenzing Sherpa, 1/6/82, Patle, Okhaldhunga, Everest X6


expid: CHOY11303
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: Slovakia
leaders: Martin Heuger
sponsor: Slovak Cho Oyu Expedition 2011
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2011-09-16
smtdate: 2011-10-07
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2011-10-11
campsites: BC(16/09,4800m),ABC(18/09,5700m),C1(23/09,6400m),C2(30/09,7050m),C3(06/10,7600m),Smt(07/10)
accidents: Rudolf Bosiak and Dusan Myslivec chest infections
agency: Sherpa Adventure Travel
routememo:
  BC at CBC/IC on 17 Sept at 5200m.

  Gablik and Heuger left C3 for summit at 1 am on 7 Oct. They reached summit at 9 am and stayed on summit for 20 minutes. Gablik and Heuger returned to C3 at 12 noon then continued their descent to C2 which they reached at 2 pm and spent the night there. Next day 8 Oct both went down to ABC. 

  Bosiak spent a night at C2 on 1 Oct. He suffered from chest infection, then went down to ABC. 

  Myslivec spent night at C1 on 23 Sept. He too got chest infection and left expedition on 2 Oct, returned to Kathmandu on 4 Oct and flew out around 6 Oct.


expid: CHOY11304
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Marie-Helene Rougeron
sponsor: Marie-Helene Rougeron (1st woman chartered accountant)
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2011-09-16
smtdate: 2011-10-04
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2011-10-06
campsites: BC(16/09,4700m),ABC(19/09,5700m),C1(23/09,6400m),C2(02/10,7150m),C3(03/10,7500m),Smt(04/10)
achievment: 1st woman chartered accountant on the roof of the world
agency: Adventure 6000
routememo:
  Rougeron, Gyalzen and Jangbu left C3 at 11:45 pm on 3 Oct. They got to the top at 10 am NST on 4 Oct and stayed on summit for 30 minutes. The team descended to C2 and spent the night there. Next 5 Oct they went down to ABC. Rougeron said that 15 Chinese climbers and maybe 15 Tibetan summited on same day. Also 3 Australians with Sherpas summited on that day. Rougeron saw Everest and prayer flags on the summit. The weather on summit day was nice. Rougeron team was the last one to summit on that day.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Gyalzen Sherpa, 18/3/1983 (4/12/2039), Garma-3, Everest X1 [??]
    Jangbu Sherpa, 20/7/1987, Chitre, Sisuwa-9, Makalu, Everest X1


expid: CHOY11305
peakid: CHOY
year: 2011
route1: NW side
nation: Russia
leaders: Ayrat Khaziakhmetov
sponsor: Tatarstan Cho Oyu Expedition 2011
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2011-09-09
smtdate: 2011-09-26
termdate: 2011-09-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to too much snow
campsites: BC(09/09,5000m),ABC(11/09,5700m),C1(13/09,6400m),C2(18/09,7100m),C3(26/09,7600m),xxx(26/09,7600m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Khaziakhmetov and Nugmanov spent the night of 26 Sept at C3 on their supposed summit push. They went down to C2 and spent two nights 27 and 28 Sept waiting for good weather, but it remained bad; then descended to ABC.


  Chris Suggitt (email) - 21 Nov 2012

  We are fairly certain that they did not get to 7600m (Camp 3) on that date because of the very bad weather; we think that they went to Camp 2 on 30th where one of them damaged an ankle and returned to ABC.


expid: CHWT11301
peakid: CHWT
year: 2011
route1: N Glacier & NW Ridge (up), West Ridge (down)
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
ascent1: 3rd
approach: See route details
bcdate: 2011-09-25
smtdate: 2011-09-26
termdate: 2011-09-28
campsites: BC(25/09,5400m),Smt(26/09)
agency: Yeti Adventure
routememo:
  Approach: Simikot, Dharapani, Kermi, Salli Khola, Taluns, Takchhe, Taisolu Khola, Changwatang 

  The base camp is very high and we used no other altitude camp.

  The climb could be of an alpine grade of PD.

  The first part in on a glacier (no name) with some crevasses. Up to a col on the NW Ridge. After a short section a little steeper, the ridge become more flat but very exposed.

  We returned by the same way to the Col du Superieur and instead to descend the glacier we continued on the ridge to another pass lower col northeast of mountain Changwatang at 5772m and then to Changwatang Pass and BC.

  The next day I made an other attempt to the summit with all the group, but we go only to Col Superieur du Changwatang at 5960m and then we turned back to BC by the same way.

  For the return trip, we have planned to walk to Jumla by descending the Ning Khola and the Chang La Valley, but the way was impossible with mules and we returned by the same way to Takchhe, Hepka and Simikot.


expid: DANS11201
peakid: DANS
year: 2011
route1: S Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Tamotsu Ohnishi
sponsor: West Nepal Expedition of Osaka Club
approach: Chainpur->Dhuli->Roma BC->south side of Api->Jumla->Dunai->Tsharka
bcdate: 2011-05-16
smtdate: 2011-06-05
termdate: 2011-06-06
termnote: Abandoned at 4200m due to bad health condition
othersmts: Attempted Roma (ROMA-112-01)
campsites: BC(16/05,3900m),C1(05/06,4200m),xxx(05/06,4200m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
primid: ROMA11201
routememo:
  The team of Ohnishi while going to Danphe Sail at 4200m camp Ohnishi got insect bites and infected feet. Then the team gave up climbing.


