# exped

expid: EVER73301
peakid: EVER
year: 1973
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
route2: SW Face (to 8380m)
nation: Japan
leaders: Michio Yuasa
sponsor: Japanese Expedition to Mt Everest 1973
ascent1: 16th
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1973-08-25
smtdate: 1973-10-26
smttime: 1630
accidents: Zangbu Sherpa killed by avalanche between C2 and C3
campsites:
  BC(25/08,5440m),C1(04/09,6100m),C2(09/09,6700m),C3A(18/10,7450m),C4A(25/10,8000m),Smt(26/10),Biv(26/10,8600m); SW-Face.C3B(18/09,7000m),C4B(26/09,7500m),C5B(07/10,8000m),xxx(26/10,8380m)

routememo:
  SW Face:
  C3B - 18 Sept 7000m
  C4B - 26 Sept 7500m
  C5B - 07 Oct  8000m
  Highest point - 26 Oct 8380m

  SE Ridge:
  C3A - 18 Oct 7450m
  C4A - 25 Oct 8000m
  Highest point - 26 Oct Smt

  SE Ridge: Biv at 8600m just below South Summit, reached 8 pm (on descent); 4:30 pm at summit.

  Both were behind by no oxygen, finished at arrival on summit; no liquid, no food.

  Kato all toes frostbitten but will recover, but will lose little of right finger; Ishigawa no frostbite. 

  Highest C4 on South Col


  Ranjan Bhattacharya - 21 Oct 71

  Japanese paper says Rock Climbing Club received permission to climb Everest, but Japanese Mountain Council cancelled recommendation because in their party, leader Okuyama and another member Furukawa were professional climbers of Japanese Mt Association; so because professional climbers recommendation withdrawn. Will give their recommendation to Takahashi
  meeting held Sept 27th.

  Aattori to be member of RCC team; returns ex-Lukla 29 Oct. He brought half of royalty; he says team doesn't care whether do or don't have JMC backing.


  Yuasa - 3 Nov 73

  8300m on SW Face; 2 climbers: Morita and Shigehiro.

  26 Oct no camp made; then to point back to support South Col on 26 Oct; they could have gone higher, no more progress on face because of support. If had 5-7 days from 1st Oct could have reached top by face, but 24 days bad weather with avalanches, snow, strong wind.

  2 summiters: Ishiguro at BC and Kato at Syangboche; toes frostbitten but Ok.


  Bonington, Everest SW Face

  "Right cocktail of planning, timing, determination, weather conditions and a dash of luck" = success on SW Face of Everest.

  "This does not mean that the face is impossible in the autumn. Given the night trick of circumstances, a few days of freakish, wind less weather at the night time, a party could climb the SW Face of Everest at this time of year."


  ND Shrestha, MFA - 23 Oct 73

  C4 and C5 slightly damaged due to bad weather. Oct 16 same members set up to repair damage camps C4 and C5; also on 16 Oct some members sent to scale by normal SE Ridge route as well to put C3 on Lhotse face and C4 on Col.

  Mr Yuasa, exec leader

  Made all arrangements to scale Everest by end of Oct. 
  Since Oct 16 weather had been good.


  Pandey, MFA - 16 Oct 73

  Sherpa killed 12 Oct.

  2 members and 4 Sherpas had gone to C3 (7000m) from C2 (6700m) carrying loads; on the way, fresh avalanche; 1 Sherpa, Zangbu of Namche lost life.


  Hashimoto - 14 Oct

  3 days at base camp and left yesterday.
  Tomorrow return to Tokyo 

  Some members reached above 8000m but not yet completed top part so camp not yet established. Site for C6 has been reached. Lost couple of days bad weather snow and so ordered members down and reassesing tactics.

  Wind not jet stream but spotty; this am from helicopter saw lot of snow danger to Pheriche.

  Decision to be made today about route and on this decision depends whether will originally through route to left would be easier; snowfall changed this; have lot of snow on SW Face.

  Going down to adv base camp with recent bad weather; supposed all in higher camps by now at ABC.

  No names, team effort.
  All members well, no accidents.

  Summit in 10 days but depends on weather visiting base camp and because very appreciative of British who selected its site but so many expeditions have visited base that there is a lot of trash now.

  Via mountain route difficulty in suppport but its possibility of descent via SE Ridge.


  Michio Yuasa - 9 Aug 73

  (Yuasa flying to Lukla) "Right side of route of snow face could be easier to climb Everest."

  2 camps above 8000m. Summit assault 3rd week Oct. Total camps 7 or 8. 

  Haston, MacInnes and Scott asked if they could join Japanese, but not accepted because of communications difficulties.


expid: PUTH73301
peakid: PUTH
year: 1973
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kunihiko Noro
sponsor: Expedition to Putha Hiunchuli from Yokkaichi Alpine Club in Japan
bcdate: 1973-09-14
smtdate: 1973-10-12
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to fatal avalanche
campsites:
  BC(14/09,4400m),C1(17/09,4820m),C2(20/09,5300m),C3(24/09,5750m),C4(07/10,6350m),C5(12/10,6400m),xxx(12/10,6400m)

routememo:
  2 Japanese and 1 Sherpa killed in C5 when avalanche struck on 12 Oct.

  Noro - 1 Nov 73

  6 arrive yesterday 5 pm.

  C5 6400m avalanche struck 12 Oct 11 pm at night sleeping time with 2 members and 1 Sherpa, sirdar Ang Nima. Avalanche came from 100m above. C5 highest point reached, established 12 Oct. Earthquake Oct 12.

  Miss Nakata and Miss Ogawa reached C4 6350m. All members reached C4.
  Bodies not found.

  Route was SW Ridge. This route possible and summit could be reached in 2-3 days from C5 (C6 not necessary) according those in C5 walkie-talkie report.

  BC 14 Sept 4400m
  C1 17 Sept 4820m
  C2 20 Sept 5800m
  C3 24 Oct  5750m
  C4  7 Oct  6350m
  C5 12 Oct  6400m

  Avalanche struck 11 pm 12 Oct

  13 Oct bad weather prevents movement
  14 Oct search for C5 but cannot find
  15 Oct start withdrawn from mountain
  20 Oct leave BC
  Stay in KTM to meet sirdar Ang Nima's mother coming from Khumbu.


  Noro, Fujita, etc - 23 Aug 73

  All members now in KTM
  Route via South Ridge, Kaphe Khola BC 
  Route goes north of point 5490m on Dhaula map

  Leave KTM 28 Aug by truck. Caravan start from Pokhara 1 Sept, arrive BC 13 Sept.

  C1  17 Sept  5000m
  C2  21 Sept  5450m
  C3  25 Sept  5750m
  C4   3 Oct   6350m very near ridge

  Summit 10 and 12 Oct, finish 21 Oct. Return caravan starts 22 Oct and reaches Pokhara 31 Oct, arrive KTM 2 Nov.

  Route from C3 is new route, easy route.
  1 sirdar Ang Nima, 3 Sherpas, 1 cook, 1 kitchen boy, 2 mailrunners
  1st time in Nepal for all members. All members to summit.


expid: SRKU73301
peakid: SRKU
year: 1973
route1: NW Ridge from E
nation: Japan
leaders: Eiji Kawamura
sponsor: Kitasato University Himalayan Expedition 1973
ascent1: 1st
approach: Jumla->Hurikot->Kagmara La->Ringmo->Phoksundo Khola
bcdate: 1973-09-28
smtdate: 1973-10-30
smttime: 1130
termdate: 1973-11-10
campsites: BC(28/09,4395m),C1(15/10,5200m),C2(21/10,5480m),C3(25/10,5800m),C4(29/10,5815m),Smt(30/10)
routememo:
  Yago - 24 Nov 73

  Rest of expedition arrive KTM 10 Dec by air plane from Khumbu; now trekking (research of lake and mountain). All are very well.

  Same peak as climbed by Japanese in 1970 but different route: 1970 South Face, 1973 East Ridge. East Ridge route "little difficult" - icefall and then very steep ridge.

  Moriyama and Takechi reached summit from C4 5950m. On summit 11:30 am and stayed 1 hour. Very good weather, no wind this only summit attempt.

  No accident, no frostbite, no illness, no yeti.

  C4 established 29 Oct (only 3 members reached C4): Moriyama, Takechi and Anu.

  Ichikawa, Phurba Tensing and Dorje went to North Smt on Oct 29.

  Yago has to return his job 20th, so leaves KTM 27th.


  MFA - 30 Oct 73

  C2  5480m, 5 Kartik=21 Oct
  C1  5200m, 29 Asash=15 Oct
  BC  13 Asosh=29 Sept

  Bad weather delayed reaching C2 from C1.
  Succeed in 2-3 weeks.


  Dr. Kawamura, letter - 29 Sept 73

  Reached BC 28 Sept 3 pm at 4395mm

  Think monsoon already over on 28th. Start climbing on 30th.

  1st wanted BC at Phurpunde but found it impossible to climb from there, so changed to Phoksundo Col.


  Dr. Kuwamura & Yago - 19 Aug 73

  1st time for all in Nepal; arrive 1st 31 July and rest 17 Aug.
  Charter to Jumla 1st week Sept by RNAC. 3 others caravan.
    
  2 weeks to BC via Phoksundo Lake west side up Phoksundo Khola to BC 3 Oct about 4000m.

  Route via 5500m, south of Tso Kharpi Kang (21,509) mtn glacier. 1st route from East Ridge; if not possible from South Face (which Osaka City Univ climbed).

  Via East Ridge, 7 camps and summit 25 Oct.

  3 Sherpas and 1 cook, 1 kitchen boy (and 2 mailrunners to Jumla to Ranjan)
  Return last week of November from Jumla by charter plane.


expid: KANB73301
peakid: KANB
year: 1973
route1: NW Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Yoshikuni Sakai
sponsor: Himalayan Expedition of Rikkio University 1973
approach: Dharan->Taplejung->Ghunsa->Ramtang Glacier (BC)
bcdate: 1973-08-31
smtdate: 1973-10-01
termdate: 1973-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6550m due to deep snow and avalanche danger
campsites: BC(31/08,4775m),C1(06/09,5100m),C2(10/09,5450-5500m),C3(19/09,6200m),C4(01/10,6550m),xxx(6550m)
routememo:
  Terajima - 30 Oct 73

  Sakai, Terajima and Okura arrive today from Ghunsa village.

  C4 on 1 Oct at 6550m; just after that, heavy snowfall 2-1/2 days (60 hrs) and C4 very dangerous: many avalanches and 2m deep snow.

  So climbing leader Yamanoi, Terajima, Iwanaga and 4 Sherpas were at C4 but after 2 days snow at 3 Oct felt very dangerous, so sahibs called them down so went to C2 in blizzard (took 10 hours to C2 5450m).

  In C3 5 members and 4 Sherpas. Also very dangerous and one time avalanche came and snow tower split avalanche from little C3. C3 more dangerous then C4 so also came down to C2 on 3 Oct.

  5 Oct all down to BC and after 3 days rest started. Climbing up again by all except leader to C2 by 9 Oct.

  Next day 2 members reached C3 and found all tents buried in snow and returned to C2.

  Then carried some baggage to C3 to rest but snow started again 10th Oct. Stayed 2 days in C2, but heavier snow than before and it's safety also gone. Very many avalanches, some very big. Also snow powder covered C2's 6 tents, so felt this dangerous place.

  12th Oct snow still falling and went down to BC again started 9 am for BC (usually reach BC 4-1/2 hrs, to C1 1-1/2 hrs). Couldn't reach C1 because snow neck deep and couldn't go up, so 8 members 13 Sherpas spent night in glacier at 5300m.

  C1 5100m
  C2 5450m

  All night snow falling but warm; got wet but not too cold. Next am started 5:30 and reached C1 in 6-7 hrs but  but couldn't see camp under 1m snow. Reached BC at midnight 13th Oct. 2-3 days rest at BC. 16th Oct again up and reached C1. 17th Oct reached C2. 18th Oct 2 members and 2 Sherpas reached C3. They dug in 5 hrs 5m and find all 3 tents broken (C2 was also under snow 2m only).

  On 20th Oct finally found C3 and wanted to go next day to C4. 21 Oct very clear day but strong wind and had no tent, so couldn't go up and gave up and that day expedition abandoned attempts. 

  Same route as Yugoslavia 1965, Ramtang Glacier. If 5 days good weather after C4, would have had success with just one more camp.

  Most difficult climbing between C3 and C4. 1000m fixed rope in steep snow.

  No accidents, no illness, no yeti.

  Others to Biratnagar - after 12 days reach Kathmandu.

  1  Oct made C4
  3  Oct to C2
  5  Oct to BC
  9  Oct to C2
  10 Oct to C3
  12 Oct to biv
  13 Oct to BC
  16 Oct to C1
  17 Oct to C2
  18-20 Oct at C3
  21 Oct - no progress, decided to abandon.


  ND Shrestha - 28 Oct 73

  After 60 hrs continuous snowfall, way to summit abandoned attempt and returned to BC; trying to reach KTM by helicopter.


  Yamanoi - 22 Oct 73

  He arrived Kathmandu evening 20th Oct, vacation finished, 10 members including attempting summit maybe today. Until 26th climbing high altitude; think success because weather not so bad now.

  C4 6550m 1 Oct by Yamanoi, Iwanaga and Terajuna and 4 Sherpas; stayed 2 days.

  Chance to make C5 and try top but weather changed with much snow and wind; left tents and equipment. All members from C3 also evacuated to C2 because many avalanches and lower camps cannot support members in high camps.

  After 1 week wait weather and go up again about 9th Oct. Until 14th Oct weather very good (Yamanoi left BC 11 Oct and Biratnagar 19th Oct). Others leave 24th Oct.

  Route: 1st probably up new snow face and along W Ridge. If this not successful, diagonally across face. Base at Ramtang Glacier at 4700m.

  Terajima - 31 yrs, ex-Tokyo magazine reporter, married 


  Takayama, Japanese - 31 Aug 73

  Kangbachen expedition's approach route from Dharan via Taplejung and Ghunsa to base camp. Climbing route from Ramtang Glacier, or Kangchenjunga, to White Wave Ridge.


expid: ANN173301
peakid: ANN1
year: 1973
route1: NW Buttress
nation: Italy
leaders: Guido Machetto
sponsor: Italian Expedition to Annapurna I
bcdate: 1973-09-03
smtdate: 1973-09-23
campsites: BC(03/09,4300m),C1(04/09,5100m),C2(07/09,5750m),C3(21/09,6300m),C4(22/09,6900m),xxx(23/09,7000m)
accidents: 2 members killed in avalanche
routememo:
  Calcogna - 27 Oct 73

  Left BC 9 Oct, arrived Choya for porters. 3 or 4 days of bad weather still and 6 days for porters up and back. Reached Jomsom 2 days after plane which had not asked for. Reached Pokhara yesterday am and by road to KTM 10 pm last night.


  Gogna - 12 Oct 73

  Arrived yesterday:
  1) Gogna
  2) Dr. Nerli
  3) Prina Cerai
  4) Pomodoro
  5) Zonta

  Others coming with heavy baggage, arrive KTM not less than one week.

  Intended to climb Annapurna with classical method and make new route via NW Buttress. Were a group of friends. All went very well to 26 Sept; because all went well, we were very confident, no problems, no difference of character, good team work.

  Reached C4 6900m 22 Sept.

  On 23 Calcagno and Machetto (leader) went up to 7000m to try to put C5 and then fixed ropes to 7000m (impossible fix more then 100m/day); in evening they returned to C4.

  Next am very bad weather with heavy snow and decided all should return to base camp except 2, Cerruti and Rava, at C2 because C2 very important as advance base camp with all possible HA baggage and other material and C2 without men and with snow camp would collapse so every 2-3 hours they should go out and remove snow.

  24-28 Sept very bad weather; really until 9 Oct only 1 day good weather.

  C1 and C2 same as French, British Army and Japanese; thence to NW Buttress which begins at 6000m and to top of peak. 

  Base camp 4300m at beginning of icefall.
  C1  5100m
  C2  5750m

  From C2 to beginning of buttress is 1 km long snow and ice plateau, about 6000m.

  French route: C1 and C2 same, from C2 Italians went night.

  C2 somewhat protected from avalanching; found Japanese ladders and food; snows from monsoon had not avalanched.

  Had 11 Sherpas and 1 sirdar of whom 1 was with Japanese and they said C2 very safe. From Italians own knowledge this safe site.

  Tragedy was not a normal avalanche: started from 7800m above sickle and of rock, not only ice - whole rock strata fell away; after avalanche, could see exposed bare rock.

  Tragedy occured at 9 pm on 26 Sept; radio 8 am 27th no contact, no reply; again 6 pm no reply. 

  28th good weather. Dr Nerli, Gogna, leader Calcogno, Di Pietro went up and saw crevasses full of snow ice and rock. At C2 found only little piece of tent and 1 chocolate all that was remaining of 5 tents and lot of HA baggage in their advance base camp. Went to see how avalanche came down; saw place of departure and that beyond C2 many up to 60-70m deep x 20m wide crevasses completely filled by ice and started. Saw C3 was not destroyed by this avalanche, but in very bad condition because of snowfall and perhaps wind of avalanche; C2 intact with fixed rope completely carried away. 

  Were searching 3 hours for bodies; "all expedition cried" when found their 2 friends gone - all were close friends for 10 yrs. Cerruti was Gogna's brother-in-law (2 men married 2 sisters). When we in base camp at 9 pm, we felt strong wind shaking tents; wind lasted 10 secs, suddenly started and stopped; snow on tent, cannot see C2 from base camp.

  Lost contact at 6 pm fatal night. They were waiting bad weather go away; calm, tranquil, did not feel themselves in danger.

  Search for bodies impossible because at least 4m ice and stone came down.

  Brought from Italy 4000m of rope; fixed 1000m and rest was in C2 including, in 2 tons equipment there decided to comes back from base to KTM.  Always bad weather; not in hurry, not keen to make 2nd Oct, 5 members in 2 days to 1st village to go quickly to KTM.

  Others today now walking to Jomsom and reach there 3 or 4 days.

  Gogna will not return to north of Annapurna; it is booked up for 3 yrs.

  Italian have Lhotse      1975 spring
               Dhaulagiri  1976 spring

  Power of avalanche so big strength that of experience: little piece of tent 50m down and shredded by explosion.

  Gogna brings back brother-in-law's passport and dairy. Gogna goes quickly to Italians perhaps tomorrow impossible to go by normal route because HA shoes in base, very little rope.

  NW Buttress route is possible; with 10 days good weather could have reached summit; had already by 23 Sept reached 7000m.

  Post-monsoon not so bad for expedition: when good weather was warm and no wind.


  Rana, MFA - 8 Oct 73

  2 died of avalanche 
  9 pm  26 Sept

  Rava    (26 Biella)
  Cerruti (34 Milan)

  Expedition abandoned

  ** There is no information about whether oxygen used or not.


expid: DHA473301
peakid: DHA4
year: 1973
route1: S Face-W Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Anthony Johnson
sponsor: British Dhaulagiri Expedition
approach: Konoban Khola
bcdate: 1973-09-27
smtdate: 1973-11-19
accidents: Dewison killed in fall, one Sherpa killed in avalanche
campsites:
  BC(27/09,3800m),C1(08/10,4725m),C2(17/10,5030m),C3(23/10,5485m),C4(09/11,5800m),C5(14/11,5180m),C6(15/11,5485m),C7(16/11,5800m),C8(18/11,5950m),xxx(19/11,6700m)

routememo:
  Tony Johnson - 6 Dec 73

  "Its a big mountain; it turned aut to be 12 miles from base camp to over top camp." 5-6 mile glacier north of 20,000 ft peak.

  From C1 to C4 a long rocky ridge and up there found lots of Japanese and Austrian gear and tent wreckage and ladders.

  Col is really wind swept, rather exposed; found Japanese tent wreckage and saw same slightly above col with fixed rope.

  Could have happened to Austrians: reason we came down, such long way that if weather turned bad, would be in very serious trouble; could get cut off completely; would need at least a week of completely clear weather.

  Alan slipped while they were cramponing down unroped; dead when Tony reached him 1/2 hour later and hadn't moved since stopped falling.

  Pure logistics = the problem of south route.

  Brook leave 8th RNAC 
  Arrive LDN Air India
  Arrive 11:00 am 9th

  Johnson and 3 
  Leave 10 RNAC, arrive LDN Air India 103
  11 am 10th March


  Ian Rowe - 30 Nov 73

  Ian and Tabbner arrive today and go to UK soon possible; rest of expedition Johnson arrive KTM about 9th.

  From C6 summit bid made by Brook and arrived 17th (day after we established C7) which failed; took biv equipment and were going to snowhole. Failed because route too hard, was too far and we were too far extended.

  Failing that, we decided to make 2nd attempt and established temporary C7 on 18th by Tony and Dewison. On 19th Tony and Dewison climbing up to West Col which they gained and put a tent on col.

  Scott, Brook, Fyffe and Rowe are in support from C7 to try and place Tony, Dewison, Scott and Rowe on the col so Scott and Rowe could make summit bid from col (where Austrians were going to make their bid from).

  Tony and Alan made it to col and put tent in. 4 of us are on glacier below and we noticed bad weather coming midday or early and afternoon decided to retreat; decision radioed to pair above and they agreed to come to C7 that evening; virtual decision to abandon whole thing because 

    a) looked like bad weather and 
    b) our food running out. 

  At that point we could do another attempt; in descending unroped facing in, Alan fell 2000 ft. Tony found him and buried him on glacier near where came to rest; no 3rd person with them. Tony reached C7 that night before dark joining 4 there.

  So we were in full retreat after that; evacuation took place until 24th.

  Rowe and Tabbner left base 24th am.

  Porter killed: Kancha Sherpa who was supplying food to people in C1: Brook, Fyffe and Sherpas above; avalanche struck while going up; he didn't deliver his load.

  All British at BC found body but rescue efforts unavailing; carried body down in dark.

  Between C3 and C4 climbed up and over summit and 20,000 ft down again; possible to climb the route but line is so long its very difficult."

  We did virtually all our carrying" (so more active Sherpas would have helped).

  "Not much fun, we just had too much to do; times are longer than Everest, much longer than expected."

  Scott when got to Pt 20,000 ft, said it's 5 minutes footprints was clear.

  All members Ok (except Dewison).

  Debris at col seen at distance by Tony which showed Austrians had put final camp, but no clues what happened to Austrians.

  Strength across to D-IV; we all said couldn't be and we'd never get there if it was.

  Tony Johnson had 2 tents.

  Brook and 2 Sherpas saw yeti, between BC and C1 about 7 Nov avalanche coming down snow slope towards party; then ran away. Sherpas shouted yeti and Brook saw an animal which Scott thinks from. 


  M Khanal, MFA - 29 Nov 73

  Ang Pasang (Raj Pradhan).

  High-altitude coolie killed by avalanche while coming from C1 to BC at altitude 1000 ft above base camp.

  23 Nov - 2 porters coming from C1 
  Cremated near BC

  Leader and 2 members left BC and main party 22 Nov.


  M Khanal, MFA - 28 Nov 73

  15,000 ft way, fell 1500 hundred feet down is correct.


  MP Khanal, MFA - 28 Nov 73

  18 Nov C8  20,500 ft

  19 Nov. Johnson, Dewison and Sherpa went up to C9, but couldn't make C9 and while coming down to C7 Dewison slipped down to 15,000 ft and died about 4 pm.

  Abandoned climbing 20 Nov. 

  C4  19,000
  C5  17,500
  C6  18,500
  C7  19,500

  Austrians - 1969 - Dhaulagiri IV

  BC     -  1 Oct  3050m
  depot  -  6 Oct  4270m
  C1     -  6 Oct  4950m
  C2     - 12 Oct  5750m

  Summit of rock barrier 20 Oct - 6275m


  Capt. Dowdall - 15 Oct 73

  Baggage arrive Pokhara 2 am yesterday - via bus north of landslide
  5 flights yesterday and 1 this am from Pokhara to base:
  4900 lbs and 5 members and 1 LO and 4 Sherpas
  Perfect weather at BC - show down to 13,000 ft
  Base just about 12,000 ft

  C2 established by yesterday afternoon by Brook very fit and Scott and 3 Sherpas 17,500 ft.

  McHardy via helicopter to KTM and on NDH RNAC today; Air India NDH/LDN tonight - ill; looks ill but can walk; arrived Pokhara yesterday afternoon with Ian Rowe who leaves Sunday by helicopter with extra gear and food.

  Home had good look at mountain from air and not so difficult.

  Are out on ridge. 4 more camps needed to give sufficient back up.

  32 days up to summit and down to base from yesterday.

  All quite confident.


  Johnson - 2 Oct 73

  Cargo truck leaving Bombay tonight; at border Sun 7th helicopter shuttles 9th or 10th.
  Johnson to Pokhara tomorrow, Tabbner from Bhairawa on Sun or Monday.


  Tony Johnson - 1 Oct 73

  Letter from advanced party:
   
  23 Sept reached Muri village; had had porters trouble; at base camp latest 27th; had to change porters at Beni and Muri.

  Johnson returned to KTM from Pokhara today 


  Tony Johnson - 25 Sept 73

  Adv party arrive base about tomorrow and hope they'll surmount rock walls by time. 

  "I am not worried about the cold, I'd just like to see the mountain once."

  Cargo off ship today or tomorrow. 1 day for Customs, so assured to leave Bombay Fri get to Bhairawa Monday 1st Oct.

  Helicopter will be in Pokhara on 6th so expedition will use it for 5 shuttles.

  On 7th to base (45 minutes round trip) and maybe 1 over rock walls; acclimatization carrying loads up from base.

  Had figured main party on base 14th or possibly 12th leaving Bombay yesterday.

  Johnson to Pokhara tomorrow afternoon and probably back Sunday.


  Johnson - 15 Sept 73

  17 porters with equipment left this am with Rowe, Brook, McHardy and Scott and 1 Sherpa and 1 cook boy - have maybe equipment for work on lower rock band, 1st obstacle which Austrians had such trouble with. Will establish base camp in 12 days and start on route into upper basin on rock ridge; have all hardware, 4000 ft rope and 600 ft of climbing rope and 1 HA tent and 3 LA tents and 200 wire loads in sections and saw HA returns.

  lower basin  12,000 ft
  upper basin  18,000 ft

  At top of ridge although may have to go above 18,000 ft.
  Some equipment probably from Kathmandu.
  Ship almost HA food, stoves, 8 tents, pack frames and 4000 ft rope.
  Air freighted out equipment in case recce needed.
  2 in Pokhara: Awbery (Dr) and Tabbner.
  Ship "Indian Tribune" was due in Bombay 9 Aug.


  Johnson - 12 Sept 73

  2 Sherpas 
  3 members 
  15-20 porters with what gear came by air from Pokhara to base camp and start fix-roping. 

  Rock ridge; have enough equipment for 1 month. 

  Awbery, Tabbner and Scott stay at Pokhara till cargo at Bhairawa date known.

  Fyffe and Dewison are in Bombay trying to get sea freight unloaded and on its way to Nepal (at Bentley Hotel, Room 6, tel 291244).


  Johnson - 9 Sept 73

  Sirdar and 3 HA Sherpas cook and kitchen boy and runners
  5 camps above base camp in Kanoban Khola

  Ian Rowe - 8 Sept 73

  Rowe and Co, leave tomorrow for Pokhara.


  Johnson - 7 Sept 73

  Dewison and Fyffe are with lorry of baggage ex-Bombay arriving border 17 Sept.

  2 Land Rovers of member to Pokhara tomorrow; Johnson, Tabbner, Awbery and Scott stay in KTM and Tabbner to Bhairawa to meet lorry. 

  3 to Pokhara might go ahead from Pokhara to recce.

  Pretty much decided to attack from South via 1969 Austrians route.


  Tabbner - 4 Sept 73

  3 here, others arrive Tomorrow and Thursday (Johnson on Thursday); baggage to Bombay tomorrow.

  Hope to set off from Pokhara by 23rd.

  9 total members including Dr. 3 with Kulu experience; from all over UK; recce party to look at south; interested in south approach and east side of Dhaulagiri VI up Kanoban Khola - they to decide whether south or go round to the north; recce party probably Rowe, Brook and McHardy.


  JOMR - 4 Sept 73

  Ken Wilson says some of best young British climbers, very strong team

  * Fyffe
  * Rowe
    Dewison
    Brook
  * McHardy

  All done very difficult climb  *= esp strong
  Brook, Tabbner and Johnson went to Kulu and Rowe to Hindu Kush several times.
  New generation of British climbers.


expid: MANA73301
peakid: MANA
year: 1973
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Jaime Garcia Orts
sponsor: Spanish Expedition to Manaslu
bcdate: 1973-09-20
smtdate: 1973-09-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6050m due to avalanches
campsites: BC(20/09,4250m),C1(22/09,5100m),C2(27/09,5600m),xxx(30/09,6050m)
routememo:
  Rivas  - 20 Oct 73

  1st helicopter flight ex-Samagaon, 11,500 ft

  3 avalanches hit C2 between 10-13 Oct. Stayed 14 days in C2 and in this 6m of snow fell.

  Avalanches destroyed first C2 and on last day 2nd C2 30m higher and stayed 3 days more in C2. 1st C2 destroyed while members out of camp in biv after 29 Sept 14 days new snow non-stop

  13 Oct the 6 members fell but no serious injury. Had decided to descend and while starting avalanche came (every 10 mins) and swept all men down several meters some (Sherpas) (100m).

  Reached base safely and waited for good weather.

  15 Oct went up to bring down gear. 13 Oct decided not possible; too much new snow, technical problems, avalanche all time down very dangerous to keep trying.

  Wish to return Spring 1975 by same route. From technical point of view very interesting. Left equipment at C1 also destroyed by avalanche probably same day, 13th; no one there at time.

  All members Ok.

  Post-monsoon very improbable to reach 8000m. If had not left mountain "we would have died." C2 all destroyed when went up to bring it down.


  Letter from Expedition - 18 Oct 73

  Weather was always very bad, snowing without stop. We were obliged to go down from C2 and C1 to the BC. Fortunately because big avalanches have partially destroyed C2 and covered C1. Everybody members and Sherpas are ok.

  From today until 18 Oct we shall tried to go up, if weather is good or to go down to Samagaon if the weather conditions do not permit this possibility.


  Letter from Expedition

  We arrive to BC on 20 Sep 4300m

  22 Sep - have the way, and back (BC Camp, C1)
           Arrazola, Marquez, Mendoz, Diez
           Establishment C1 (5100m) - Soria, Rivas, Blazquez + 5 Sherpas
  23 Sep - C2 establishment - Soria, Rivas, Blazguez & 5 Sherpas
  24 Sep - a provision C2 - Durand, Repiso
  29 Sep - a provision C2 - Arrazola, Diez, Mendoz, Blazguez
  30 Sep - a provision C2 - Arrazola, Arias, Garcia Orts
  30 Sep - Make way to C3 (until 6050m) - Rivas, Soria, Lopez, Rodrigo, Durand

  Stay in C1 till 4 October: Garcia Orts, Arrazola, Leader
  This people go down to BC 4 October because of danger of avalanches.

  Stay in C2 till 9 October - Soria, Repiso, Durand, Rivas, Lopez, Blazguez and 6 Sherpas.

  On 9 October big avalanche over C2; all members and Sherpas of C2 go down to BC.

  10 October everybody on BC.

  It has snowed until today, from 29 Sept without stop; avalanches everywhere; very bad conditions of the mountain.


  Letter from Expedition - 4 Oct 1973

  In the last 8 days we have to push to C1 and near totally C2 (5600m). Tomorrow we shall tried to begun to shift C3 at 6300m.

  Last 3 days was snowing a lot and was lot possible to do any work. Many avalanches even between C1 and BC but today weather is better.


  Letter from M. Arrazola - 28 Sept 1973

  After 13 days crossing the valleys of the Buri Gandaki. We have arrived the BC. He had no problems and all people of the expedition, Sherpas and porters okay.

  We go to put C1 at 4900m and probably 2 days after C2 at 5600m.

  Weather until now is not so bad. From the BC we see the top of the Manaslu. 


  Mrs Arrazola - 7 Sept 73

  Left 9:30 am today except leader and doctor who left 4:30 pm for Trisuli where they leave tomorrow am.


  Dr. Arrozola - 2 Sept 73

  6th Thurs leave KTM by road to Trisuli; leave Trisuli 7th & 12-13 days to BC. 
  5 high camps; summit 15-20 Oct.


expid: DHA373301
peakid: DHA3
year: 1973
route1: SW Face-W Ridge
nation: W Germany
leaders: Klaus Schreckenbach
sponsor: German Himalaya Expedition 1973
ascent1: 1st, 2nd
approach: Pokhara->Jomsom->Mu La->Mukut
bcdate: 1973-09-21
smtdate: 1973-10-20
smttime: 1250
termdate: 1973-11-01
campsites: BC(21/09,4000m),C1(24/09,5000m),C2(27/09,5300m),C3(12/10,5900m),C4(18/10,6950m),Smt(20,23/10)
routememo:
  K. Schreckenbach - 28 Nov 73

  Bernd Schreckenbach not fit at time of summit attempts.

  Frostbite: 
    K. Schreckenbach, 3 toenails lost + 2 finger nails will go
    Hans Salers toes, but will not lose anything.

  All will be here by today; KS, Saler, Harberl and LO arrived yesterday.

  Route changed for first summit group because of snow; West Face slope below it and then via SW Face and W Ridge.

  No accidents, serious illness
  Small accident 50m by Harberl by avalanche on Charter Ridge
  1st Oct - not much avalanching


  Klaus Schreckenbach, C2 - 24 Oct 73

  21 Sep - reached Base Camp near Mukut (4000m)
  24 Sep - C1 (5000m) established by K Schreckenbach, Hans Saler, Klaus
           Suessmilch, Bernd Schreckenbach
  27 Sep - C2 (5300m) established behind the Charter Ridge (5650m) by
           Peter Von Gizycki and Konrad Hiller
  30 Sep to 9 Oct - bad weather, heavy snowfall
  11 Oct - provisional C3 established at 5600m by Klaus Schreckenbach, 
           Hans Saler and Gerhard Haberl
  12 Oct - after a stormy night final place for C3 at 5900m (snow cave)
  13 Oct - heavy snowfall
  18 Oct - C4 (6950m) established by Saler, Hiller and Sirdar Norbu (snow cave)
  20 Oct - top of Dhaulagiri III reached by K. Schreckenbach, Saler and Haberl,  
           very stormy
  23 Oct - top of Dhaulagiri III reached by Suessmilch Von Gizycki, Hiller and Norbu

  Besides some small frostbite, we are all well and we will reach Kathmandu in about 3 weeks. 


  K. Schreckenbach - 8 Sept 73

  Saler left by road for Pokhara this morning and Schreckenbach leaves with LO by RNAC at 11:30 am today, thus all in Pokhara.

  Leave Pokhara tomorrow for base camp arriving there 25th or 26th Sept (1st mailrunner back from base arrive Pokhara 2-3 Oct).


  K. Schreckenbach - 6 Sept 73

  All expedition baggage and members except Saler reached Pokhara on Mon, 3rd Sept; now arranging porters.

  Expedition leaves Pokhara Sun, 25 Sept at base camp near Mukut.

  Leave base camp beginning of Nov for return KTM.


  K. Schreckenbach - 2 Sept 73

  To Mukut and then south, up glacier end of point of 6181m to Dhaulagiri III from west onto east 200-300m of West Ridge of Dhaulagiri III; totally new route (which could be of interest to future expeditions to Dhaulagiri V).

  Schreckenbach arrived today; all other members except Saler leave NDH (New Delhi) by road today to Pokhara; hope to leave Pokhara on 8 Sept.

  6 high camps, 2 base, 1 at Mukut and 1 after Charter Ridge; may use snowholes at high altitide which are much warmer than tents.

  3 high altitude Sherpas.
  All members unmarried. 

  Pokhara to Mukut about 16 days so arrive BC about 24 Sept. Hope we can reach the peak after 4 weeks; another 1-2 weeks to return all equipment to BC. 1st summit team 2-3 members and if weather and health permit hope more subsequently.


  Dhaulagiri III conquered

  They're back from the mountain with frostbite and grizzly beards. Back from the top of Dhaulagiri III - the highest mountain climbed by a German team (7715m). They had met us with hope and confidence some months ago (German news Sept 15, 1973) and now they came to our offices with triumph and humility. "It was no sense of victory really," said 29 year Klaus Schreckenbach, leader of the 7-man German Himalaya Expedition, "when we stood at the summit we first were happy that it was over, the fight and challenge was behind us. One felt a feeling of friendship with the others," he searched for words. "You feel happy afterwards, you know."

  Gerhard Haberl (27) who came with Schreckenbach also found it difficult to explain how it was to be at the top. "You relax once you get there. you thought it was hard but once you're there you say you've have done your job," he said showing his discoloured frostbitten fingers. The others had frostbitten toe nails and couldn't even dance with the villagers of Mukut a stopover near their base camp, when their victory was celebrated.

  They'd reached Mukut after a 12-day trek out from Pokhara, the starting point, with 59 porters carrying supplies. This was in the end of Sept and they had some good weather to keep them company. Base Camp was set up at the foot of the mountain at 5000m and the spot was reached across steep slopes and after a rocky traverse. C2 was established three days later at 5300m and to reach it called for dangerous rock climbing with fixed ropes to negotiate a steep ridge and heavy ice.

  But with the first days of October came bad weather and the storm winds and avalanches in their wake held them up for nearly ten days. "It was a bad time psychologically," said Schreckenbach who was stranded at C2 with two of his teammates. They read paperbacks, wrote their diaries and penned letters and all that time there was a heavy snowfall and screaming winds outside their flimsy tent. With the first let in the snow storms, the party moved on to set up C3 at 5850m after a hard climb across a one km - long traverse made even more dangerous because of the threat of avalanches.

  Another party of climbers went on to set up C4 at 7000m. They kept changing parties and the rule really was to send up anyone who was needed at a certain place. There were no star climbers and they worked it out as a team.

  It was very stormy at C4 and the climbers there had no food either because their stove had gone out of business. So they decided to think only of reaching the summit and set out in Oct 20 to make for the peak that was a hard 700 metres ahead. At around 12:30 pm of the same day, the three climbers.


expid: ANNS70301
peakid: ANNS
year: 1970
route1: S Face
nation: France
leaders: Gerard Devouassoux
sponsor: Expedition Chamoniarde a l'Himalaya
ascent1: 2nd
approach: Pokhara->Modi Khola->Kyumrum Glacier (BC)
bcdate: 1970-10-02
smtdate: 1970-10-27
smttime: 0600
termdate: 1970-10-30
campsites: BC(02/10,4200m),C1(5200m),C2(6100m),C3(6550m),C4(6850m),Biv(26/10,7100m),Smt(27/10)
routememo:
  Devouassaux - 10 Nov 70

  Climbed the face. Masino and Payot only reached final ridge at 7000m. C4 6850m was highest camp.

  Masino 15 days sick in base with bronchial pneumonia.

  Face more difficult the expected. Had to climb on face, not on ridge and face very dangerous because many stone and ice avalanches.

  Strong winds defeated Masino and Payot's summit attempt on 27th afternoon. 1st team reached summit.

  Summit 6:00 am on 27th having left C4, 5 am 26th Oct. Spent 26th night at 7000m without tent, sleeping bags, no food in dark; made hole in snow.

  BC 4200m
  C1 5200m
  C2 5600m
  C3 6000m
  C4 6850m

  [Note: camp and bivouac elevations differ from published HJ article]

  Top of face very difficult: very steep loose snow. Had expected to reach summit and return on 26th; returned C4 3 pm on 27th.

  Leave KTM after 4-5 days and tour in India 10 days on the way to France.


  French Expedition - 19 Sept

  Arrive KTM 13th Sept. Go Pokhara, Ghandrung, Kyumni, north from Kyumni to approach mountain from south. Expect 2-3 camps above base. 2000m face of rock, snow and ice to PKR 20th. Leave PKR 21st for 6 days to base. 6 Sherpas, sirdar Pemba Tenzing.

  No idea how long to sumit (prospectus says towards end Oct).

  Annapurna South (7195m)
  = Moditse, Modi Peak, Ganesh

  First climbed by Japanese from Kyoto University in 1964 from northern side; only previous attempt on mountain.

  French 1970 expedition attempting new route: direct route up South Face.


expid: MANA73101
peakid: MANA
year: 1973
route1: NE Face
nation: W Germany
leaders: Gerhard Schmatz
sponsor: Swabian Himalaya Expedition
ascent1: 5th
countries: Austria, Switzerland
bcdate: 1973-03-20
smtdate: 1973-04-22
smttime: 1500
campsites:
  BC(20/03,3950m),C1.ABC(21/03,5070m),C2(26/03,5600m),C3(29/03,6450m),C4(12/04,6950m),C5(15/04,7550m),Smt(22/04)

routememo:
  Dr. Schmatz - 9 May 73

  151 Blue Star, this evening

  NE wall climbed by Germans

  Icefall very dangerous towards end of expedition because of many ice avalanches.

  Left of North Col. Were very late on summit day. Weather so bad couldn't leave in till 9 am. On summit 15:00 hours and again back at 17:45 hours. Saw red paint at about 7500m on summit platform and think was one of dead Austrians (tent would have blown away but probably red anorak or red pullover on body). I am sorry I didn't go there but in evening too tired and in following morning we had to go down. I had frozen my feet and cheek and ear and Sigi froze his feet and fingers - frostbite getting well.

  Mrs Schmatz at C2 at Naike Col and climbed a peak over 600m east of Naike Col; had intended climb North Peak but shortage of supplies. Kaempfe and Woergoetter with her on 21 April; probably climbed by Japanese, not so difficult.

  Met Japanese women for 1974 (East Ridge their route).

  Arnold had lung embolism from and probably perhaps also altitude at 5600m. Was very weak and had to be helped down from C2 to C2 and to base; later he went above C4 and had relapse with lungs again on 13 April.

  Sherpas caught in avalanche but no one injured. 
  All but Sturm returned to KTM yesterday evening.


  Sturm - 25 April 73

  Left expedition 19 April; has to return to work.

  Too much snow and more important too much wind. 2nd attempt to be made beginning on 19th by Schmatz, Hupfauer and some Sherpas including sirdar Urkien. The mountain is not difficult but weather bad, snowing every day. British possible they reach the summit if 3-4 days fine weather. 


  Mountain Magazine July-August 1978 on Manaslu by Norman Dhyrenfurth:

  Pinned down by frequent snowstorms, men had to wait until April 22 before summit ascent could be started from C5, 24,700 ft. Gerhard Schmatz, Hupfauer and Urkien did not leave until 9:am, rather late for the test ahead. Soon it was discovered that of the three oxygen sets only 1 Urkein's functioned properly - the valves of others froze up time and again. Painfully short of breath, the two Germans rid themselves of their faulty sets and their rucksack and continued the climb; towards 2 pm the base of rocky summit pyramid was reached. The weather was so bad by then that Urkien was ready to turn back, but in the end he relented and stuck it out. "Another hour went by before we reached the top we are standing on the highest summit ever attempted by German we take few photographs, pick up some rock samples and depart from this inhospitable spot."


expid: MAKA73101
peakid: MAKA
year: 1973
route1: SE Buttress
nation: Czechoslovakia
leaders: Ivan Galfy
sponsor: Czechoslovak Mountaineering Expedition Himalaya 1973
bcdate: 1973-03-29
smtdate: 1973-05-21
termdate: 1973-05-30
termnote: Abandoned at 8010m due to fatal fall
accidents: Jan Kounicky died of injuries related to fall
campsites:
  BC(29/03,4750m),C1(03/04,5700m),C2(06/04,6050m),C3(13/04,6600m),C4(30/04,7200m),C5(11/05,7850m),xxx(21/05,8010m)

routememo:
  Dr. Wolf & Galfy - 31 May 73

  21 May summit group (5 Czechs and 2 Sherpas) started from C5 (7850m) to reach place of C6 (maybe 8200m) and next day to reach summit. Jan Kounicky (34 years) about 8010m 10:00 am slipped on very steep snow slope (terrain not difficult); fell 80-100m down and heavily injured, unable to walk. Summit group stopped ascent, called BC by radio. Injured now brought to C5 and members treated him according to instructions from BC. In some hours he was better and for 6-7 days members and Sherpas (especially members) tried to bring him down but very difficult steep rocks and snow it was not possible to carry him down to BC on fixed ropes and also because lack of oxygen at that altitude and injured man used all supply in C4. Josef Psotka (39) spent 9 days and 8 nights without oxygen with injured man in C5 and he had to be ordered to come down. Another man up with oxygen and food and fuel, after 2 days going up mentally exhausted and had to come down. 26 May he died: Mike Orolin was with him and then new parties went up but knew impossible to bring body down; body [put] in sleeping bag in crevasse with Czech flag over him.

  Summit team:
  1) Jan Kounicky (dead)
  2) Josef Pstoka
  3) Leopold Palenicek
  4) Jan Cervinka
  5) Ivan Fiala

  Leader carried 2 days before BC with pneumonia.

  2 groups of expedition
  1) Tomorrow in Tumlingtar
  2) others with leader

  Route is ready, possible to climb. This way Czech route SW Pillar between Yugoslavia and Japanese route.

  Team used Sherpas above BC for setting high camps.


expid: DHA473101
peakid: DHA4
year: 1973
route1: E Ridge from N
nation: Austria
leaders: Franz Huber
sponsor: Austrian Dhaulagiri IV Expedition
approach: Pokhara->Jangla La->Mukut
bcdate: 1973-04-04
smtdate: 1973-05-07
termnote: Abandoned at 7250m due to big storm and continuing bad weather
campsites: BC(04/04,4000m),C1(11/04,5000m),C2(14/04,5300m),C3(19/04,6000m),C4(22/04,6800m),C5(07/05,7250m),xxx
routememo:
  Franz Huber - 6 March 73

  7 arrive; all excluding Weissensteiner. 

  Some more difficult this route than 1969 probably. North route also long; what part of north route most difficult to say since haven't seen it: Dhaulagiri III in the way.

  Leave KTM after few days.


  Weissensteiner - 28 Feb 73

  Leader and Dr. to KTM on Tuesday next week and with reporter to Pokhara about 8th.

  Adi to NDH tomorrow and by truck to Pokhara with cargo about 7 or 8 March; 6 members by truck also.

  Leave Pokhara about 10 March. Reach base camp in at least 21 days, probably 28 days.

  5 high camps with C5 at about 7200 or 7300m.
   
  Much rock up to C1; snow fields to C2 and from there serious traverse below icefall; then ice to east ridge at about 7200-7300m where C5 will be. Ridge half rock, half ice.


  Adi Weissensteiner - 2 June 73

  C5 in Col; ridge beyond not easy: partly steep, partly at last knife-like, partly distance.

  Waited 2 days in C5 for good weather but didn't come.

  This possible to climb this 2nd route, but it takes time and if we would come again, we would come this same way. Would more try from so but it has to be a damn strong team. Thinking of requesting D-IV again.

  No accidents, illness, frostbite, yeti.

  Thought about 3rd attempt, but who was strong enough after 5 weeks at high-altitude. Only 2 or 3 possibles and distance too much from C2 to C5 to summit with difficult climbing at end and never stopped.

  Adi Weissensteiner arrived yesterday, rest today.


expid: DHA173101
peakid: DHA1
year: 1973
route1: SE Ridge (to 6550m)
route2: NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: James Morrissey
sponsor: American Dhaulagiri Expedition
ascent2: 4th
approach: Pokhara->Tukuche->Dhampus Pass->French Pass
bcdate: 1973-04-01
smtdate: 1973-05-12
smttime: 1300
termdate: 1973-05-24
campsites: BC(01/04,5880m),C1(18/04,6525m),C2(24/04,7225m),C3(01/05,7590m),C4(10/05,7830m),Smt(12/05)
routememo:
  Del Young (Anderson & Bech also) - 2 June 73

  Peter Lev and Ron came down on 18th to C3 after waiting out 17th which was not too bad. On 18th several more feet of snow. Ron and Peter were considering summit for 18th, but gave it up late that am. Yang came down to open route ahead of them; left C3 at nooon; extremely dangerous avalanche conditions between C4 and C3 and Ron got only to C3 that day while Yang to C1 just before dark; snow waist deep, snow sometimes shoulder deep and swinging motions, took 6-7 hours. Peter and Ron started avalanches that went all the way (10,000 ft), very serious conditions.

  Lowell waited for Ron and Peter in support of them. Then took all of tents to come down to C3 which in normal conditions would have taken 1 hour to come down that 1000 ft; after that a matter of cleaning the mountain. When decided to go down on 18th was the decision to abandon the mountain and was clear they had waited too long. All cleared off mountain 22nd May.  

  No accidents, no other damage besides Roskelley's frostbite.

  Bech, Anderson, Young, Reichardt, Lyman and Peterson now in KTM (and Skow); rest by 4th June. Most leave together on 12th to NYC.


  RSS - 27 May 73

  2nd summit attempt on Dhaulagiri I abandoned; expedition returned to base camp 25 May; leave Tukuche 26 May.

  Tom Lyman and Skow have come back to KTM; left expedition with Roskelley and Duenwald.


  Roskelley & Duenwald - 19 May 73

  SE Ridge camps would have been almost impossible to place, such a knife-edge: 13,000 ft down 1 side, 2000 ft down the other.

  19 pitches to the ridge and almost vertical part; just getting to ridge was fine piece of climbing, says Duenwald. Took 10 days to get onto SE Ridge. Ice climbing on this face as hard as anything done in the Himalayas says Roskelley, but it ended up in dead end. Doubtful 2 climbers supported by entire expedition could have gotten up SE Ridge: too difficult to supply camps and too much objective danger from rock fall from supplies.

  Del Young took lead out 12 April 40-50 ft but just didn't get far fast. Between 29 April to 11 May there was 1/2 a climbing day; even summit days was very high winds up to 80 mph gusts: when just came along, couldn't see any of us. Deep snow, day before had heavy snow but so tired of sitting in camp (C4) that went up to summit. Just unbelievable winds; had set in C4 all day of 11th.

  On 7th in C3 Roskelley blown over by winds when went out to get some snow and his tent poles all broke by wind and tent collapsed.

  C4 established by Roskelley and Nawang Samden. 10th excellent weather; we stayed in the tent on the 11th. C5 exposed. Reichardt left C3 late and joined Roskelley with 2 Sherpas later on 10th (2 Sherpas went down tired).
   
  Roskelley froze his feet on 11th and 12th; feet already frozen when set out for summit: had very bitter feeling in them: had spent night before beating them and holding them over fire: "I knew something was wrong with them." Left C4 at 7:30 am and reached summit 1:00 pm, back at camp at 5:00 pm. Lou took some pix and froze couple of fingers (just blistered). Realized feet in trouble when reached base camp on 13th and Drs took his boots off. Roskelley descended alone while Reichardt stopped at C2 for night of 13th. Roskelley carried from base on 15th to Tukuche in 3 days; horse to Jomsom 19th, given seats on police standard flight by Kalayan. 


  Vikram Adhikari
  Today (2 aides off-loaded by Adhikari)

  Duenwald incredibly sparsely evacuation of Roskelley.

  2nd Summit team:
    Lev and Fear in C4
    Smith and Young in C3

  Yesterday am: were going to decide 10 am whether to give up: was snowing at 7 am at time if Duenwald's radio contact at 7 am and Duenwald thinks they came down then for good - weather deteriorating recently and crevasses opening up.

  (American ascent withing 1 day and 1/2 hour of first ascent).

  Roskelley and Duenwald lost 20 lbs in weight.

  Roskelley very disappointed when had to abandon SE Ridge. "Challenge gone repeating others successful route; what we came down for was to do something new and difficult but 27,000 ft is challenge enough and there was difficulties. The wind and weather there, damn lucky to get 3 people on top."

  Will lose parts of a couple of toes and be able climb again in couple of months, but can't walk. Going home fast as possible.
   
  14-16 days for rest of expedition to get back to KTM.

  No other accidents, illnesses, frostbites.


  ND Shrestha - 16 May 73

  Success 12 May 1 pm
    Lou Reichardt
    John Roskelley
    Deputy Sirdar Nawang Samden

  NE Ridge: 2nd group trying to reach top from C3. 


  ND Shrestha (MFA) - 10 May 73

  After reaching 25,000 ft from SE Ridge, abandoned that route and tried from NE Ridge because knife-edged and often double corniced for over, mile towards summit, chances of success by that route very slim.

  Decided to climb NE Ridge and to attempt to get as many members as possible to top.

  From Lowell Smith to US Embassy to MFA: no date given for Smith's report.


  Kathy Peterson - 24 April 73

  Decided on 14 April that the SE Ridge would be intolerable and after 2 weeks of trying just to get up on the ridge, gave it up. Now everybody is focusing on standard NE Ridge and I believe working on C3 as from 20 April.

  Sonam Girme has really worked out well and thus far don't seem to be any problems with logistics, health or Sherpas. Apparently the weather and wind are fairly severe.


  Jim Morrissey to Al Read - 10 April 73

  "Bad weather past week but today is beautiful and with luck we will reach the ridge at 21,000 ft."

  Lowell Smith 559 ice - 11 loads to get halfway up face 6-10 April.


  Emil Wick (of Geneva) - 5 April 73

  "Everything up, everybody in good health. I'm most satisfied."
  Last days 04:55-06:35
  Today GMT
  and then Skow and he flew over top of Dhaulagiri I 29000 ft

  All members on NE Col, 19200 ft

  Dropped altogether:
  1st April 3 4th - 2 (total 8 tons)
  2nd April 4 5th - 3
  3rd April 4  

  Expedition reached base camp on Col site on 3rd April
  "that was best job I ever had" - this aircraft has 700 hp while '60 340 hp"

  Same members cross glacier and start to attack mountain: very steep upwards little icefall yesterday.

  Radio contact


  John Skow - 26 March 73

  24-26th March: 7 droppings, 3500 kg at French Pass compacted snow same boxes opened but all picked food and same equipment: tents, ropes, kerosene.

  John Skow in charge of drop operation and pushed stuff out trap door.

  About 20 ft above ground when pushed out.

  Again 1st April in NE Col about 10 tons, about 10 days. 


  Peterson's wife - 10 March 73

  Expedition left Pokhara Thursday 8 May for base camp (she saw them off at Pokhara); slu staying with Terry Bech's successor until she leaves in May to join them).


  Morrissey - 3 March 73

  Truck left this am with 6 Sherpas
  8 Americans

  6 Americans left in KTM including Terry who leaves March 5 while other 5 including Morrissey leave tomorrow.


  Terry Bech - 4 Dec 72

  Arrive 15 Feb
  16-18 members
  30 tons baggage = 9 truck loads
  Helicoptering Larjum to NE Col at 19,200 ft
  250 miles to Larjum

  1/2 expenses of Sherpas and without loss of life under ice cliffs for several hours and save time.


  PBK - 20 Jan 73

  To climb Dhaulagiri by route refering helicopter deprives Sherpas of status and utility - if not safe otherwise, don't climb by this routes climb some other route.


  Captain Chester - 23 Aug 72

  Helicopter Services will lift Dhaulagiri expeditions's base camp from Jomsom to 19,000 ft - booked by Terry Bech.


expid: EVER73101
peakid: EVER
year: 1973
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Guido Monzino
sponsor: Italian Everest Expedition
ascent1: 14th,15th
bcdate: 1973-03-21
smtdate: 1973-05-05
smttime: 1239
campsites:
  BC(21/03,5400m),C1(27/03,6150m),C2(31/03,6450m),C3(11/04,7000m),C4(29/04,7500m),C5(30/04,7985m),C6(04/05,8515m),Smt(05,07/05)

routememo:
  Hillary - 16 May 73

  Not only quantity but much of it good quality heavy duty equipment, not light weight expedition type. Nobody else could afford to bring the weight to base camp and advance base light weight stretches and kerosene heaters and lights at advance base camp communications - complete any set - 3-way support helicopter with Colonel in charge.

  Camping and education consultant Seans
  Dir of hold Bks in Australia

  substanial supplies in cook tent
  spagetti bolognese
  coke
  bean
  peaches
  operated like military operation
  any personal
  any equipment
  any communications


  Ed Hillary - 11 May 73

  What Monzino has shown: if you have a couple of platoons of Alpine troops and a couple of helicopters and equipment and funds, that the climbing of Everest by South Col routes is a reliable straightforward procedure.

  We shouldn't regard this as a mountain expedition; taking a group of service people and getting then to work together on a difficult and challenging objective; more of a together programme. As a mountaineer I think he would have been much better carrying it on European Alps, but he has been very competent. I hope in future that Everest will be left mountaineering parties composed of small groups enthusiast climbers. It's reached the height of ridiculous.

  8 teams off
  8 3-man assault teams
  (2 Italians)
  summit teams were to be flown down to Lukla for rest and recuperation and then flown back to BC.

  Helicopters key to plan


  Al Read - 8 May 73

  28 April - 2 Chileans from base camp by helicopter enroute to Lukla; met at Pheriche.

  Al said: 11 members including 2 Chileans had gone to C4 and same of these had eye trouble and frostbite - so all went down to base camp except 2 Chileans who spent 3 days at C4 and were well acclimatized ready and willing to go on up to summit on 29th, but expedition refused to give them Sherpas and told them they could not go to summit, presumably because they not Italians. They were leaving expedition (not clear whether asked to leave or quit). They thought it would make Monzino look bad in Chile since he had gone there to recruit them. They would never climb for another Italian expedition because not in best alpine style: helicopters had stocked C2 with men, supplies fuel which they understand was contrary to HMG permission.

  Italian embassy told Read on 8 May 2 Chileans at Lukla or base camp, had not come to KTM.


  ND Shrestha - 7 May 73

  2nd group today summits at 13:00 
  3 Italians, 1 Sherpa

    Capt. Fabrizio Innamorati 
    Virginio Epis
    Claudio Benedetti
    Sonam Gyalzen

  If weather remains clear will try again up to 14th.


  ND Shrestha - 5 May 73

  2 Italians on Everest succeeded 5 May, 12:39 hours

    Minuzzo
    Rinaldo
    Sirdar Lhakpa Tenzing
    (Sherpa) Shambu Tamang

  and returned to C4 which established yesterday 2 pm 28,000 ft. 
  Next group will try day after tomorrow.


  Gallesi - 25 April 73

  Weather bad for past 3 days, preventing radio communication between base camp and higher camps, so no informations, yet about C4.


  Lord Hunt - 16 April 73

  2 Hunts, Wylie and Gurgary to Lukla 17th.
   
  Great disservice to other mountaineers in other countries to use techniques against Ministers of Nepal Govt; inevitability of progress: airlifting in context of mountain is in scope of things to come; used in Alaska and in Pamirs. I don't ethically like it, but respect Nepal govt's attitude on employment.

  One has feelings but uses of technique to overcome human problems advantages of doing it slowly from point of view of acclimatization; in Pamirs we went into much too quickly.

  A mountain expedition is all of a piece approach march, acclimatization shake down between Europeans and Sherpas; miss tremendously lot esthetically not walking in. 


  Landucci - 19 April 73

  eye trouble and one frostbite
  24 Verbi - eye
  03 Miniuzzo - feet frostbite 
  16 Tancan - eye

  In C2 and had to be rescued in afternoon 17:40 hours; weather very strong winds; chopper did not crash; tried to land before all lost; 200m before C2; skidding on ice and hit crevasse at low speed and helicopter damaged and impossible to bring down but rest can be brought.

  Cristallo not fractured but dislocation of left arm; in KTM but not in hospital.
   
  3 injured stayed in C2 and cared for by Dr in camp.


  ND Shrestha - 18 April 73

  Crashed at C2; went to rescue 3 persons suffering from diarrhea. Yesterday at 17:45 tried to land but because of wind crashed. Engineer injured Cristallo Mauro, right fracture. Padro Landuci and Peca Raro Pilots Luigi safe and sound. 3 sick and 1 injured carried to basecamp and other helicopter brought to KTM.


  Everest

  Lindsay Strong reports airdropping pay loads of 150 kg to C2.


  ND Shrestha - 8 April 73

  "Permit strictly for rescue operation, if airdropping, it is violation of permit. Must explain what they are doing."


  PB Khetri - 5 April 73

  Approach route had no facility and no reach in time: time lag.


  Dr. Curzan - 4 April 73

  Saw Everest airdropping on 1 April in Western Cwm; was at Kalapattar, regular flights.


  Gallesi - 6 March 73

  Heavy snowfall this morning at Thyangboche and Lukla; same of expedition have moved off towards base camp probably yesterday.


  Capt. Gallesi - 4 March 73

  Snowing at Thyangboche at 5 pm today where expedition should leave tomorrow but difficult for yaks to move; depends on how deep this evening snowfall becomes; reached Thyangboche about 8 days ago, about 50 Italians at Thyangboche.


  Monzino - 11 Feb 73

  Why South Col route? "because it is easier." Only 5 expeditions have reached summit by it.

  Don't know now how many men will try to reach summit or how many summit teams or where or how many camps.

  Cost and financial informations not allowed to give.

  1st time any member climbed in Himalayas before. "Sure its a handicap," but have Alpine experience. 


  Monzino - 3 Feb 73

  Last 3 flights arrive 4th or 5th Feb and expedition leave KTM about 15th Feb.

  All climbers to fly to Lukla about 15 Feb - acclimatization climbing - established base in 1st or 2nd week March.

  South Col route only - one summit attempt only - how many men and when depends on weather health of 33 climbers (33 if everybody arrive).

   33 climbers
    6 scientists
   11 helicopter people
  5-6 radio operators
    2 doctors
   10 leader, 3 deputy leaders
    6 directors
    2 photographers
    2 information assistants

  Climbing leader - Piero Navas is 1 of deputy leader


  Guido Monzino - 15 Nov 69

  Hopes to bring expedition in 1973 with 25 members; classical South Col route.

  Went to Kalapattar for good view and went on trek to see country and people and to meet HMG and Himal Society for expedition.

  Bech and Carrel also to be members.


expid: LHOT73101
peakid: LHOT
year: 1973
route1: S Ridge-W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Ryohei Uchida
sponsor: Kanagawa Mountaineering Federation Lhotse South Wall Expedition
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1973-03-25
smtdate: 1973-05-08
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to avalanching
campsites: BC(25/03,4900m),C1(04/04,5800m),C2(13/04,6350m),C3(02/05,6850m),xxx(08/05,7300m)
routememo:
  Hiroshima - 20 May 73

  Arrive today Mitsuo Hiroshima, Tsuneatsu Tsuchiya and Shigeru Tanaka if weather good, otherwise tomorrow.

  C1 5800m - 4 April route to C2 very long rock ridge so advance camp at 6000m (established 10 April).

  C2 6350m - 13 April route to C3 snow face with some very deep crevasses.

  C3 6850m - 2 May-29 April already decided site for C3.

  8 May Hiroshima, Toyotaro Ohmasu and Masutomo Takita arrived at 7300m and wanted to establish C4 there, but but many snow avalanches from South Face. Every morning clear, every afternoon snow, so abandoned making C4; this highest point reached.

  9 May decided must turn back to avoid accident. 1300m to summit all rock face. Possible to climb if good weather and no avalanching.

  If possible I want to go another mountain.

  Had wanted to go to South Face directly at east end to summit, but too many avalanches at east end. At base camp 3 days, decided changed and actually approached from west. C4 site below West or East Ridge at west end; ridge very long, almost impossible route.

  7 climbing members, above 6000m only 3. Others not in good, strong health, so Hiroshima had to make route all the time. Too weak an expedition for such a high peak.

  No accident no serious illness, no frostbite, no yeti.


  Uchida & Hiroshima - 20 Feb 73

  Arrive Thyangboche 6 March; arrive basecamp 20 March.

  Leave KTM 22 Feb, drive to Lamosangu and trek except Hiroshima flies to Lukla on 28 with all equipment.


  Uchida & Hiroshima - 12 Feb 73

  Arrive KTM 11 Feb 9 members.
  South Wall, up Lhotse Glaciers, very steep. Below 6000m snow, upper rock. 5000m fixed rope.

  Equipment to Lukla by air. Members to walk in to Lukla, Namche 1 week rest, acclimatization, BC on Lhotse Glacier at 5300m.

  This the first try via this route. 

  6 camps; each 500m above other. This time hope to reach 7500-8000m as high altitude recon. Some spare pavers, want to go to top. 

  Arrive base end of March; leave base end of May; 2 months of climbing.

  Leave KTM about 22nd Feb
  5 high altitude Sherpas
  3 tons baggage


expid: PUMO73101
peakid: PUMO
year: 1973
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Shigeyuki Nakamura
sponsor: Pumori Expedition of Tohan Club Japan
ascent1: 4th
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1973-04-04
smtdate: 1973-05-01
smttime: 0730
termdate: 1973-05-04
campsites: BC(04/04,5200m),C1(08/04,5800m),C2(13/04,6200m),C3(24/04,6520m),Smt(01/05)
routememo:
  Nakamura - 11 May 73

  Arrived KTM yesterday by plane, rest on 12th and 13th.
  Correct Shigero and Shimasaka summited on 1st May

  From C3 summit was very far. 2 summiters stayed in bivouac at 7090m on 30th April and 1 May. Reached summit at 7:30 am and stayed 1 hour on top. Started snowing soon after and because very bad so had to biv again that night. Reached C3 at 4:45 pm 2nd May.

  Fixed rope also above C3; 1300m fixed rope altogether from just below C2. Up to C2 was ice, above C2 rock.

  Route was South Ridge; this expedition 1st to succeed by South Ridge.

  Had planned all to go to summit but since route from C3 so very long, only 1 summit attempt. No C4: not enough time, no place to put tent.

  No yeti, no climbing Sherpas. No accident, illness, frostbite.


  Pumori

  Success 1st May, 07:33 hours inspite of bad weather.

  2 members - Tatsuji Shigeno
              Nobuo Shimasaka

  South Ridge route.


  Kimura - 5 March 73

  Not trekking to Khumbu; fly to Lukla after perhaps 2 or 3 days. Stay at Thyangboche 1 week for practice climbing.


  Kimura - 3 March 73

  South Ridge, same route as British; very difficult so 1 Sherpa.
  Leave KTM 8 March. On foot from Lamosangu.
  BC Gorak Shep about 1 April.


  Yamamoto - 26 Feb 73

  3 members here; all others on 1 March.
  Leave 5 March on foot from Lamosangu, reach base camp about 2 April, return KTM late Jane. Summit 10 May.

  Route = South Ridge: this new route: 1 team tried but no success (tried by Indians 1953). Very steep knife ridge. BC on southwest glacier at 5200m. Ridge begins on their route at 6400m. C2 below at 6200m and C3 6500m, C4 highest at 6800m, summit 7145m.

  Hope all members except chief leader to summit.


expid: APIM73101
peakid: APIM
year: 1973
route1: W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kuniharu Ichikawa
sponsor: Chuo University Api Expedition 1973
bcdate: 1973-04-01
smtdate: 1973-05-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6150m due to bad weather and climbing difficulties
campsites: BC(01/04,4000m),C1(01/04,4800m),C4(29/04,6000m),xxx(01/05,6150m)
routememo:
  Ichikawa & Hirota - 4 June 73

  All members to Kathmandu today. 5 members reached highest point 6150m on 1 May. Bad weather: snow and everyday afternoon bad weather; only 6 hrs climbing time each day.

  Their ridge route very long. 30 days to reach C4 with time-consuming route-finding. 20 more days to reach summit and much hard work. They attacked West Ridge, very unknown ridge. We didn't know surface. Turned out to be rock and ice and very steep slope and everyday icefalls and rock fall; sometimes climb only 100m in one day.

  It's possible reach summit this route. Would like to try again and might be successful.

  Time: both Hirota and he want to try again after 2-3 yrs. All members and Sherpas unscathed, no yeti.


  Ichikawa, Moroi & Hirota - 23 Feb 73

  All members arrive today. Probably same route on Api as 1971 Japanese, S Face, maybe W Ridge. Flight to Damgori early March - Baitadi leaving Dagari 4 or 5 March and reached base end March.

  57 days from base to summit. 10 May we hope summit.

  1971 no good weather; late reaching base and lots of rain. "I hope this year good weather" says leader, maybe now stronger team.

  4 Sherpas & cook, kitchen boy & 2 mailrunners.

  Hope all members to summit.


expid: ANN173101
peakid: ANN1
year: 1973
route1: NE Buttress (to 6500m)
route2: N side (to 8040m)
nation: Japan
leaders: Shigeki Tsukamoto
sponsor: Japanese Annapurna Expedition of Shinano-Shibu - Annapurna I
bcdate: 1973-04-04
smtdate: 1973-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 8040m due to high winds and exhaustion
campsites: BC(04/04,4300m),C1(07/04,5200mm),C2(18/04,6000m),C3(26/04,6500m),C4,C5(7500m),xxx(14/05,8040m)
accidents: 5 killed in two separate avalanches
routememo:
  Tsukamoto, Horiuchi & Sonam Ishi - 28 May 73

  Tsukamoto, Horiuchi and Sonam Ishi arrived today by car from Pokhara.

  Killed: Takahashi, Hama, Ushigoe, Katagiri and Chong Rinji Sherpa from Solukhumbu (Junbesi).

  14th May - 1st attempt on summit. Ushigoe and Pasang Norbu, reached 50m from summit and came back, tired.

  15th May - 2nd attempt by Furihata and Chong Rinji Sherpa. Snow and very strong wind gusts. Came back to C5 and while returning Chong Rinji became sick.

  16th May - to C3 and Sherpa very sick and used much oxygen, almost died.

  17th May - about 3 pm very heavy snow which started 12 noon. In C4 4 members and Pasang Norbu and 3 members and 5 Sherpas in C3; all night heavy snow; C3 very dangerous site with new snow avalanche.

  18 May - all came down, C3 people to C2 and C4 tried for C2. That day many big avalanches every minute. 1st avalanche hit C4 people between C3 and C4: 3 men hit by main avalanche: Sadatoshi Takahashi, Masanori Hama and Kazumi Katagiri at 11:30 am and they were swept away; Masakatsu Tsukahara and Pasang Norbu safe and returned to C4. C3 people going down: another avalanche hits Tadashi Ushigoe and Rinji 14:40 hours and they also were lost.

  Takashi Furihata and Tsuyoshi Shintani and 4 Sherpas Ok.

  Other members on way to Pokhara - reached there 3 or 4 June.

  First tried NE Buttress and make 2 camps and tried make C3. Reached about 6500m in route making but big crevasses and big seracs and many daily ice avalanche. Abandoned this route 20 April.

  Changed route to British Army 1970 and same their fixed rope find or not quite same as French route.


  ND Shrestha, MFA - 27 May 73

  Tried to scale but when 50m remaining to top, weather became very bad, snowfall, so gave up and returned but while summit team returned from C4 on 18 May, avalanches swept away 4 members and Sherpa between C2 and C3 and their bodies could not be found. Dead were:

  1) Masanori Hama
  2) Kazumi Katagiri
  3) Sadatoshi Takahashi
  4) Tadashi Ushigoe
  5) Chong Rinji Sherpa


  N.D. Shrestha, MFA - 10 May 73

  Annapurna I expedition established C3 at 6500m on 26 April
  Expedition changed route: from NE Buttress to north side.


  Tsukamoto & Matsnage - 4 March 73

  Total 11 members; 9 members arrive today. 

  Leave 8 March by plane to Pokhara; caravan beginning probably 13th and 15th days to base camp.

  British army route via NE Buttress, which they retreated from Japanese making new route at end upper Glacier 7100m.

  6 high camps; C6 7500m about 15 May, summit 20 May.

  10 Sherpas including sirdar Sonam, 2 Kitchen boys and 2 mailrunners
  route very difficult but possible.


  Tadashi Hsigata - 27 Feb 73

  2 members now here; rest 9 more arrive 4 March. Leave by truck on 8th March to Pokhara. Caravan leaves 12th or 13th and reaches base camp after about 15 days. 
  Will climb north side, British army route.

  10 Sherpas including sirdar which British abandoned; 6 higher camps with C6 at 7600m; summit 10th May about, 2 summit parties planned. 


  Kaneko - 5 & 7 March 72

  Went Annapurna I next year spring, now recce by 4 members. Route next year not yet decided but interested in north side. Will trek to Tilitso Lake and return via Kali Gandaki.

  Go to Pokhara about 17 March.

  MFA consider this only trekking and no LO assigned to them.


expid: KJER73101
peakid: KJER
year: 1973
route1: W to a southern ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Fumihoto Watanabe
sponsor: Japan Kanjiroba Expedition
ascent1: 1st,2nd
approach: Jumla->Kaigaon->Balangra La->Tibrikot->Suli Gad
bcdate: 1973-04-04
smtdate: 1973-04-22
smttime: 1230
termdate: 1973-05-02
campsites:
  BC(04/04,3700m),C1A(07/04,4600m),C1B(10/04,4700m),C2(11/04,4900m),C3(17/04,5300m),C4(21/04,5800m),Smt(22-23/04)

routememo:
  8 May 73

  Arrive today Hiroshi Hattori, Koichi Kyogoku, Nobuaki Nomura and other 3 day after tomorrow. Climbed the peak they intended to climb.

  22 April Koichi Kyoguku, Yasuaki Goshima, sirdar Mingma Tsering and Mingma Tenzing to summit.

  23 April Hiroshi Hattori, Koichi, Masaru Sakamoto and Pasang Phurba Sherpa to summit.

  "That not was easy, good Sherpas and good weather." Team work good cause Japanese ate same food as Sherpas.

  C4 highest about 6000m; established 21 April by Hiroshi Hattori, Yasuaki Goshima and Masaru Sakamoto.

  Summit reached on 22nd 12:30; very long snow and icefall and deep deep crevasse; left C4 5:50 am. 

  21st very bad weather; snow 22nd good weather in morning, but very windy; snowing in afternoon on return and reached C3 at 5:00 pm.

  23rd almost same time: 12:15 on summit; very bad, snow and wind from 9 am; left C4 at 5:20 am. 

  No accidents, illness or frostbite
  Leader to C2 only 
  Stay KTM more then 1 week


  Watanabe - 12 March 73

  6 members; all arrive KTM today.

  Kanjiroba mountain group west and northwest of Phoksundo Lake of which group highest peak is 6660m = 21850 ft.

  Fly to Jumla 17 March and thence by foot via Kaigaon and Bangthami, Para (June) Darjam Khola and north (east of point 16,280 ft) with BC west of point 21,640 and 21,850 ft.

  BC about 4000m on 1 April
  4 high camps 
  6000m - summit
  3rd part April
  Arrive back at Jumla middle May
  4 Sherpas including 1 Kitchen boy and 1 sirdar


expid: ANNS73101
peakid: ANNS
year: 1973
route1: NE via Ganesh Glacier-E Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kuniaki Yamada
sponsor: Sagamino Alpine Club Annapurna South Expedition 1973
bcdate: 1973-03-28
smtdate: 1973-04-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6760m due to bad weather and dangerous conditions
campsites:
  BC(28/03,3940m),C1(02/04,4545m),C2(09/04,5220m),C3(17/04,5840m),C4(21/04,6280m),C5(26/04,6620m),xxx(28/04,6760m)

routememo:
  Yamada & Ostuka - 11 May 73

  Kuniaki Yamada, Shigeru Watanabe and Suemitsu Otsuka on today by bus; other 3 tomorrow from Pokhara.

  Ostuka and Pasang Sonam turned back; bad weather ice seracs falling, very dangerous in this condition; glacier below had many big crevasses.

  North Ridge route very difficult and very long, so changed route to Ganesh Glacier route on east side. Changed route 1st April to route of 1964 Kyoto U as far as C2 and thence new route more east of 1964 autumn but west Doriya 1972 autumn route. Very steep ice wall from C3 and C4.

  One member hit by ice block on back left side his head 6020m while making route above C3. Had to go down to C2 and 3 day rest there; now Ok and even went to C5.

  Could not reach summit because bad weather; much snow and danger from falling ice seracs. Ostuka thinks this route possible only in April (early).


  Ranjan - 5 May 73

  Annapurna South leader wrote Ranjan on 26 April that if they had not reached the summit by 28th April, they would abandon the attempt. They would reach Pokhara on 10 May and came to KTM probably by bus.


  Yamada - 9 March 73

  All 6 members arrive today.

  Route via Annapurna South North Peak; new route not attempted before; whether difficult or not, don't yet know.

  5 Sherpas including sirdar.

  Leave KTM 15 March by road; leave Pokhara 17th, 10 days caravan to BC on same site as British South Face expedition 1970.

  5 high camps: C5 at 7000m
  Summit 10 May, 4 summiters


expid: YALU73101
peakid: YALU
year: 1973
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Haruo Higuchi
sponsor: Kyoto University Yalung Khang Expedition 1973
ascent1: 1st claimed
approach: Dharan->Taplejung->Tseram
bcdate: 1973-03-29
smtdate: 1973-05-14
smttime: 1800
termdate: 1973-05-22
termnote: Success claimed, but one member died on descent
campsites:
  BC(29/03,4600m),C1(02/04,5950m),C2(11/04,6470m),C3(6990m),C4(26/04,7440m),C5(12/05,8000m),Smt(14/05)

routememo:
  Captain Chester - 29 May 73

  Most of others left base camp. Ageta and Co at base camp at beginning of Yalung Glacier, waiting for helicopter since Sunday at least.

  Ageta, Tazuke and Higuchi arrive today. Ageta right hand and both feet frostbitten - feet not so serious: toes 1st joints; 4 fingers right hand 2nd joint to strong [?] of frostbite.

  Could find only broken shaft of ice axe of Matsuda, but not body near deposit point of oxygen at 8100m. Highest of final C5 almost 8000m; returned to 8300m on 14th May after summit.

  Summit 6:00 pm 14 May. Stayed 30 minutes and started down and forced to biv about 8300m. At 6:00 am could 2 men at biv walking. We watched from base camp. Weather very fine and watched between am and evening accident happened.


  Higuchi - 14 Feb 73

  6 members arrived KTM 8 Feb. 
  3 members now in CCU (Calcutta). 
  6 now in Dharan.
  Caravan starts from Dharan.
   
  20 Feb 6 members in KTM fly to Dharan 16 Feb. Establish BC 20 March on Yalung Glacier. Climb via middle SW Ridge of mixed rock and snow. 6 high camps with summit attempt mid-May.
   
  10 high altitude Sherpas.


expid: EVER72301
peakid: EVER
year: 1972
route1: SW Face
nation: UK
leaders: Chris Bonington
sponsor: British Everest Expedition 1972
countries: Australia
bcdate: 1972-09-14
smtdate: 1972-11-12
termdate: 1972-11-17
termnote: Abandoned at 8230m due to high winds
accidents: Tony Tighe killed in icefall by falling serac
campsites:
  BC(14/09,5350m),C1(22/09,6100m),C2(01/10,6550m),C3(05/10,7000m),C4(12/10,7500m),C5(03/11,7925m),C6(14/11,8230m),xxx(14/11,8230m)

routememo:
  Mike Burke came soon with ITV camera equipment - wife arrive today with all others not Rosedale.


  Bonington - 23 Aug 72

  Organized expedition very quickly. Only started when heard last expedition hadn't suceeded to climb SW Face. Even so, better organized then Annapurna S Face. Thanks to Tiso and Kent. Also without July's liaison and chose cap from HMG.

  Using basic pattern of previous expedition. We know the line we can take up to C6 at 27,000 ft and vast challenge of SW Face is that final 2000 ft getting across that rock band and up gully across face and post monsoon cold.

  I'd like to be somewhere fairly far from front and first behind lead climbers. We have sent very lead climbers ultimate reward is to stand on top of Everest and 2 who do that are roped of whole team. 6 lead climbers: Dougal, Hamish, Scott, Bathgate, Burke established international expedition of 1971 had the worse season any expedition ever had. The thing that defeated that expedition was appalling weather. If Everest is in bad condition, doesn't matter how good your team. Nothing wrong with internationalism; what you do want is group of people who know each other very well indeed and this we do. Cohesive team with one end in view: to climb the mountain by whoever going best at that time.

  Why not Dave? "best team that will work together" is what wanted; he's a very good climber.

  I selected what I felt best team for the problem.

  If we find the summit rocks are impossible via gully straight up. Would go to South Ridge but I feel this may have stronger winds - not trying a directissima. Go very near S Summit - go up gully to right and join original route at col but S and Main summit 200-300 ft below summit by then will have climbed the SW Face. Will leave to future gestures the directissima. Himalayan climbing hasn't yet reached age of directissima; this beyond the logistic pavers we have at present. Our O2 and other equipment much too heavy own equipment std, tried equipment.

  Hope to establish a C6 at about 28,000. Bivs in the winter are chilly.

  Going to have to face minus 20-30 degrees, +100 mph winds. "Its going to be desparately difficult climb in these conditions."

  "Given good weather we have a good chance of success." Always element of luck. We've tried to eliminate all faults and weaknesses possible so if we fail be more due to bad luck than ourselves.

  Every load prepacked for porter's backs and already sorted for various camps and individuals.

  Could be first expedition Sherpas equipped better than ourselves. Summit attempt depends on when monsoon ends and subsequent weather. Earliest is end of Oct; latest: long as one can keep going so probably end Nov.


  Bonington - 24 Aug 72

  "When you climb in the Himalayas you have to accept the fact that there is an element of objective danger," - re Ians death on Annapurna South Face at slide show for Nepal-British Society.


  JOM Roberts - 18 Sept 72

  Apparently Icefall in better conditions in post-monsoon. 2 years experience and Schneider skied down most of it in post monsoon. 1951 recce also easily into Icefall.


  MacInnes - 22 Nov 72

  Dougal and I went up to establish C6. Dougal was half on hour ahead of me. My axe packed in and I had to go back to C5. Scott and Burke also reached C6 but returned to C4 saying couldn't; they did it on bad day with high winds - very very cold. Escourt definite frostbite in big toes and Bathgate's toes, still make forthnight later; so they and Sherpas went down for rest.

  Next problem: to stock C6 and to help and stocked because only, box tents possible at C4 and Tiso had already been hit by falling stones which C4 subject to.

  9 Nov Bonington and 1 Sherpa up to C5 and Tiso in charge of C4 with 4 Sherpas. Objective to stack C5 for 1st assault party of McInnes and Haston supported by Burke and Scott.

  Bonington and Sherpas man last 100 ft of rope to C6 and carried 2 loads next day. 1 Sherpa did another carry to C6.

  12 Nov   Haston and MacInnes roamed up to C5 but still not enough gear  
           in C6. Tiso hit so C4 now not in that camp.

  13 Nov   Bonington did solo carry to C6 and back to C4. Plans for 14th:
           MacInnes and Haston to move up to C6 but tent not erected.

  13 Nov   Burke and Scott up C5 because can't leave tent unoccupied for it 
           will be blown away

  14 Nov   4 members set out for C6. MacInnes and Haston to stay there 
           with other 2 to keep them supplied

  14 Nov - 

  Haston, Scott and I set out from C5 (I was first) towards C6 and made fairly uneventful passage to C6 except from wind which very high which occasionally blew me off the ropes. I reached site of C6 about 2 pm - wind was very strong - went to place where Chris had dumped gear for site and there winds so bad could scarcely stand up. Went wondering around for sheltered spots but no shelter at all - wind swirling around. An hour later Scott came up and joined us. Hamish had had trouble with axe set and turned back not very far above C5 (maybe half hour above). We talked to each other then as much as we could in the wind. We also looked at way ahead and this had been blown completely free of snow and this would make climbing all more difficult. With wind absolutely impossible to climb. Certain parts had to be done without gloves which meant frostbite and 2nd man standing waiting also would freeze; also trying erect tent it would have been blown away. Decided these condition would prevail and decided to come down. Met Burke on way up towards C6 and he agreed with decision. Spent that night at C5. Reached C5 between 4-5 pm.

  Compared with autumn spring is very nice, very pleasant. Less wind, better temperature; wind is whole crux of problem. Route we had chosen a good route.


  Bonington

  Nothing is impossible but I reckon its bloody difficult. If you reach South Col there are days when no wind. SW Face even if try way round side to SE Ridge. In post monsoon very difficult, but I wouldn't say its impossible. So many things have been declared impossible.

  We preferably spent more time above 26,000 ft in post-monsoon season in over party of 10, all reached C4 and C5; I very nerly reached C6. Bathgate and Escourt made route to 400 ft vertical height. 5 actually stood at C6. This indicated but top of Everest very unpredictable place, gully swept clean of all snow. Conditions insufferable - worst conditions I've ever come across. We'd realized conditions were going to be insufferable.

  Proposed C7 we realized amount of time taking we couldn't use C7 and decided to make route through rock bend fixing ropes; but Haston knew rock band which he'd seen earlier expedition.

  When Dougal told his decision, I have total and absolute trust in his judgement as a climber, impossible to climb this gully without snow. In 1971 had reasonable amount of snow but this autumn snow blown away by wind of incredible force: just rock instead of snow in ultra-cold and ultra-windy conditions.

  If I had urged them to press on might well have lost someone or had severe frostbite end of Oct which would have wiped out most expeditions and kind that wiped out Argentinians. Lasted 5 days and it forced us to vacate C4 when large stone size of football hit tent Bathgate and Estcourt were in and destroyed it but didn't hurt them. Tiso really splendid stay in C3 and thus kept one box occupiable. C2 Rosedale and Bonington with Sherpas: tents being buried in snow. I had heaviest snow of all and miracle no one hurt: Sherpas tent buried in 5 feet of snow (all Sherpas in C1). So end of storm lot of tents destroyed and time lost but we pressed up again. Morale of Sherpas and climbers ??

  Each storm caused delay; total in Oct at least fortnight (storm and redeployment time).

  Tony Tighe - close friend of mine Haston and Burke. I said he could join us at base and manage it. On last day I told Tony he could come up Icefall to meet us and see C1. Tony went up just behind 12 Sherpas. In Icefall you don't go roped up; this well-marked and bridged and roped track; a narrow road but desparately dangerous road with seracs that can collapse. Tony passed us (MacInnes, Haston, Scott and myself) and last who could have seen him alive was Phukipa. Tighe at top of Icefall. Sherpas coming down from C1: Phukipa 1st of 6 Sherpas behind with Ang Tende in front and as AT dropped its rope entire ridge collapsed without any using and he left suspended about 10 minutes while other Sherpas turned back. If 5 minutes later, all Sherpas would have died. Rosedale at C1 promptly organized other Sherpas and went straight down and rescued AT when bringing from rope. When Rosedale and party came to BC asked "where's Tony?" Tony not seen; 100% certain Tony must have route gone into trough and must have been in it at time of collapse and must have been covered by hundreds of tons of ice and death must have been instantanous. Immediately Burke and Bathgate that night went straight up with 4 Sherpas to look for him in bright moonlight. Next am MacInnes and Scott went up and to rescue him. MacInnes said most dangerous area he'd been in. Radio on 14th evening Tighe asked permission of Chris to come up I would love to come back to Nepal. No comment on possibility of HMG action on Tighe being above BC.

  Tighe was architect, sound mountaineer and good skier and ski mountaineer; his 1st time in Himalayas.


  Brasher - 17 Nov 72

  MacInnes, Haston, Burke and Scott moved up from C5 to C6. They were being blown off their feet; managed reached C6 and but nothing sheltered from wind. After 15 minutes hands and feet were blocks of ice. Stayed perhaps 1/2 hour in afternoon. Returned to C5 in the evening and walkie-talkie between Dougal and Bonington and was decided hopeless because of cold and wind.

  -21 degrees C at BC; in double sleeping bags plus all down clothing. 


  Brasher - 18 Nov 72

  Tighe killed when hundred tons of ice fell on him near top of Icefall yesterday midday. Body not found, no one else was with him. 6 Sherpas nearby just escaped although one left dangling on rope and rescued by Dr. Rosedale and 4 other Sherpas.

  Friend of Dougal Haston and came to BC to help in any way he could and made himself "absolutely invaluable" at BC including taking load of Kelvin who has frostbite in both hands. Went up yesterday to help Barney evacuate expedition. 


  JOM Roberts - 28 Oct (Base Camp)

  C5 not yet occupied, unsettled conditions sets in on 25 Oct (on this day the French made a summit attempt on Pumori which turned back only 200m below the summit) and heavy snow fell all day and night 26 and 27 Oct.

  On 28 Oct conditions are better but it will take a few days to remake the route from base camp upwards. Major Kent who suffered some frostbite injury to his fingers on 16 Oct (not 17 Oct as earlier reported by me) is making a good recovery. He will remain with the expedition but will not climb higher than base camp.

  For local 

  As at night 27 Oct, 1 member at C3 and remainder at C2, C1 and base camp. Wind and then snowfall have caused expedition to fall slightly behind schedule. However, earlier progress was so good that any slowing up is apt to viewed out of preparation. We still have time in our hands and bonus of just 10-15 days fair weather, might spell a dramatic change in our fortunes. Remember that quite apart from the SW Face we are trying to do something some pundits have declared impossible the ascent of Everest post-monsoon by any route.

  Whatever we achieve, the achievement will not have been easy.


  Mountain Magazine's Ken Wilson - 30 Oct 72

  ropes fixed to C5
  (Wilson left base 27th
                 C2 25th

  On 26 the weather deteriorated from a bit overcast and night 25/26 stone hit C4 and badly damaged 2 boxes and Estcourt and Bathgate who had replaced Bonington. They gotten 2 sets loads to C4 for C5. Evacuated C4 on 26th and on 25/26th started snow - big storm on face: must have been winds on face.

  Tiso in C3 on 26th, only man on face 26th snow all day, but Burke and Scott left base to try to reestablish C4. Reached C1 on 26 but not to C2 because bad conditions: found ridge at top of Icefall had to be repaired. So 27th Hamish was supposed go up from base to repair bridge but snow too bad to leave base.

  Boxes have proved to be weak. Were going to ask French from Pumori to sell French boxes which hope are stronger.
   
  French got 100m from summit on summit ridge and thus finished their route but 300 ft below summit and appeared to be retreating; bad weather hit them too.

  Everest expedition in very serious position; snow yesterday all day so 3 days of snow, damage bridge in a crevasse; only man at most on face; and C4 devastated, only have rope to C5 - morale and fittness of climbers high but morale of Sherpas mediocre. Very, very cold on face. C4 must be rebuilt before can go higher.

  "Chances now one less than I have given them in summer: snow and boxes have food for 3 weeks and can spread it out." 

  Brasher should have reached base 27th.


expid: ANNS72301
peakid: ANNS
year: 1972
route1: E Ridge (Central Smt, 7150m)
nation: Japan
leaders: Yuzo Tada
sponsor: Doriyu Mountaineering Club Annapurna Expedition 1972
approach: Pokhara->Modi Khola->Annapurna Sanctuary (BC)
bcdate: 1972-09-16
smtdate: 1972-10-21
termnote: Abandoned at 7150m (Central Smt) due to lack to time
othersmts: Climbed Annapurna South (Central Smt) via E Ridge (3rd ascent)
campsites: BC(16/09,4000m),C1(18/09,4500m),C2(30/09,5000m),C3(11/10,5500m),C4(18/10,6350m),Central-Smt(21/10)
routememo:
  JOM Roberts - 3 Dec 72

  Annapurna South top is huge absolutely flat snowfield perhaps 2 miles long, so Japanese in autumn 1972 not really a failure - just trudged ahead. They climbed the mountain but not to the highest bump on the summit plateau. 


  Tada, Yamamoto, Hashimoto - 7 Nov 72

  Annapurna South has 3 peaks: North, South and Central
  7219m Annapurna South - 1964 and 1970, 1971 expeditions

  We wanted to climb South Peak, but we have no time, so we climbed Central Peak.

  If we could go from Central to South Peak and return, 3 more hours on very easy route, but no more time; reached Central Peak at 2:10 pm on 21 Oct by Tada, Yamamoto and Yoshido.

  1964 also climbed Central Peak, but French only South Peak as came from South Face from C3 to C4 very difficult, fixed 1000m rope; very steep and hard ice mixed rock. C2 to C3 brought avalanche, seracs and crevasse, difficult to find route. Heavy snow also and C2 tents broken by heavy snow and avalanche 6 Oct.

  No accidents, frostbite or yeti. Leave KTM 12 Nov.


  Shrestha, MFA - 30 Oct 72

  Summit reached by 3 who established C4 at 14:20 hours. No oxygen used. 


  Shrestha, MFA - 29 Oct 72

  C4 - 18 Oct 6250m

  3 members in C4: Yoshio Yamamoto, Kojo Yoshida, Leader Yuzo Tada


  Yosida, et al - 27 Aug 72

  Leader, deputy leader and last member Hashimoto arrive today.

  Leave 31 Aug to Pokhara by road all together; 2-3 days in Pokhara leave 4th or 5th Sept and arrive BC 13th.


  Yoshida & Yamatamoto - 15 Aug 72

  Rest arrive on 25 Aug via Thai and all leave on 27 or 28 Aug by charter to Pokhara. 1 week caravan to BC arrive about 13 Sept to climb by East Ridge of Annapurna South. BC on Annapurna Glacier and route then onto ridge running in from Hiunchuli. 4 high camps, C4 at about 6600m; summit attempt 25 Oct.

  5 Japanese and 5 Sherpas.

  No member has climbed in Nepal before.
  Same route as Chiba Institute last autumn.


expid: JETH72301
peakid: JETH
year: 1972
route1: N Ridge from W
nation: Japan
leaders: Yasuo Ohsumi
sponsor: Nagoya University Expedition to Northwest Nepal 1972
approach: Dhangarhi->Chamlia Khola
bcdate: 1972-10-02
smtdate: 1972-10-27
termdate: 1972-11-07
termnote: Abandoned at 6150m due to storm and Sherpa death
campsites: BC(02/10,3750m),C1(06/10,4410m),C2(17/10,5100m),C3(25/10,6050m),xxx(27/10,6150m)
accidents: 1 Sherpa died of brain hemorrhage
routememo:
  Sweda & Takeyama - 2 Dec 72

  Jettiborani (about 6940m) due south of Nampa on ridge south from Nampa (intermediate peak between Nampa and Jettiborani is Bobaye; another peak south of Jettiborani is Rokapi). 2 km from Nampa to Bobaye and another 2 km to Jettiborani.

  BC (due west) on west side of JB at 3750m established 2 Oct; west side is a face. Expedition's route via glacier northeastwards from BC to ridge north of JB. Had 4 camps above base; C4 at 6050m established 25 Oct.

  Highest point was 6150m on 27th Oct by Naoharu Takeyama, Tatsuo Sweda, Yuichi Furuse, Seizo Hotta. 

  C1 on glacier
  C2 on col north of JB
  C3 and C4 on ridge

  Needed a C5 but had only total 4 tents and snowstorm began 27th and continued 3-1/2 days and during storm 1 Sherpa died of apoplexy (brain bleeding) at C2 at 5100m on 27th (body buried at C2). No accidents, frostbite or other serious illness.

  Route they tried is possible to climb, probably only route. Long route with some easy parts and some very steep parts on ridge and in icefall between C1 and C2 where avalanches come frequently.

  All members returned to KTM by air from Dhangari except Yamagata, who is still trekking. Leader already in Japan; didn't go to BC. 

  "We expected smaller and easier peak. This main difficulty."


  Shrestha - 13 Nov 72

  Nampa (message sent yesterday by LO)

  27 Oct up to 6150m; because bad weather 4 days and death at C2 of Ang Temba Sherpa gave up climbing and returned to base; left base camp 7 Nov. 


  Hotta - 25 Aug 72

  29 Aug leave KTM to Simra; Raxaul to Dangari by rail
  31 arrive Dhangari
  2 Sept leave
  Arrive 28 Sept BC

  "Nampa South" 5-10 km from main peak, due south; has no name: MFA asks it be called "Nampa South."

  Base on west side of "Nampa South." Have no photo, so cannot say route because don't know features. Pioneering like expeditions those in 1950s.

  4 HA Sherpas and 1 kitchen boy and mailrunners (1/2 weeks to MFA and embassy). 50 porters to base.

  5 Nov end of climbing period; if not able reach summit by then, will come back.


  Hotta - 24 Aug 72

  4 members arrived today; leave for India and Dhangari 27th or 28th. Sweda and Furuse have gone to India already.


  Hotta, Sweda and Furuse - 9 Aug 72

  Nagoya University Expedition to NW Nepal 1972 - Nampa South

  3 members in KTM now, rest 4 arrive 24 Aug. 
  Hotta stays KTM whiles other 2 now in KTM go to CCU tomorrow and thence by road with baggage to Dhangari.

  Hotta and 4 to be in Guest House or Rawa House.

  Route from south; will climb Nampa South Peak, not Main Peak. South Peak hidden by other mountains and not discovered. South Peak is 6940m high (thus higher then main peak). No climber has been on South Peak.

  4 Sherpas including Sirdar (not decided who will be Sirdar)
  Hotta and 4 Japanese leave KTM about 26 Aug, by rail in India to Dhangari

  All in Dhangari about 1st Sept. Leave 3 Sept on 25-day caravan to base camp. Expect establish 4 higher camps with C4 at about 6300m; summit attack end Oct or early Nov.


expid: PUTH72301
peakid: PUTH
year: 1972
route1: S Ridge-S Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Tadaaki Sahashi
sponsor: Himalayan Exped of Nagoya YMCA Alpine Club to Putha Hiunchuli
ascent1: 3rd,4th
countries: USA
bcdate: 1972-09-18
smtdate: 1972-10-14
smttime: 1600
campsites: BC(18/09,4500m),C1(21/09,5050m),C2(26/09,5500m),C3(30/09,5720m),C4(09/10,6400m),Smt(14,16/10)
routememo:
  Sahashi & Pritchand - 31 Oct 72

  Trekking to Tukuche: Fujiwara, Ito, Sakaue, Aoyama
  Matsuo in Pokhara 4 days.
  Sahashi and Pritchard ex-Pokhara by 9-10 hours today.

  14 Oct Matsuo and Sirdar Nawang Samden on summit at 4:00 pm, followed 30 minutes by Aoyama, Sakaue and Fujiwara.

  16 Oct Pritchand, Ito and Kanchha Sherpa on summit about 1 pm. Sahashi attempted, reached 7100m and then feet got very cold and tired.

  C4 at 6400m highest camp, established 9 Oct. Next days to make route, fix ropes. Bad weather on 6th and 7th: wind and heavy snowfall. Took Pritchard 3 hours longer than used on 1 run. Not exceptionally easy; moderate climb, but can be extremely difficult: if more ice could have been technically quite difficult. Did not use easy SW Ridge. Up rather steep (40-45 degrees avalanche [chute?]).

  South Ridge, essentially same route Seppyo Party used in April 1972.

  No drastic incidents, accidents or illness.

  When going up to C1 Sherpas said there's a yeti, but Pritchand couldn't see. Mixed snow and rock with lot of rock. 1 of Japanese Sakaue said he saw it but long way away and small. Pritchard did see tracks and Pritchard now believes in Yeti. Not a small bear, not like any normal mammal. Saw tracks up and down slope across path from BC to C1 in bad snow at 4800-5000m on 3 Oct and 19 Oct half mile apart. 2nd tracks Japanese also saw. Pritchard worked in woods as forester and is accustomed to looking at tracks. 12" long x 5" wide, curved down at end like fingers: doesn't weigh as much as I do and I weigh 150 lbs; looks like 80-lbs Donald Duck in bedrooms slippers. Sahashi himself did not see yeti or tracks but believes in yeti.


  Shrestha, MFA - 24 Oct 72

  Climbed on 14 Oct at 4 pm
    Hiroyuki Matsuo
    Sirdar Nawang Samden
  Other 5 members climbed on 16th 
    Fujiwara
    Y. Aoyama
    K Sataye
    D. Ito
    James Pritchard
    Kanchha Sherpa


  Sahashi, NC - 26 Sept 72

  Putha Hiunchuli
  18 Sept  BC 4500m
  21 Sept  C1 5050m
  26 Sept  C2 5500m
  about 28 C3

  Jim trouble with his ears so he at base and leader also not so well and at base.

  Dhaulagiri IV - will be finishing climbing in 15 days; very big snow on 24-25 Sep, 25 cms deep.

  Sahashi saw Yeti, no details. 


  Sahashi - 31 Aug 72

  Sahashi and Fujiwara to stay KTM today. All others Pokhara by air today.
  Sahashi and Fujiwara to Pokhara tomorrow. Start caravan from Pokhara on 2 Sept.


  Sahashi - 27 Aug 72

  1 arrive today; Minoura not coming to Nepal because of auto accident.
  Sahashi = Deputy Leader
  30 or 31 to Pokhara; 3-4 days later from Pokhara; arrive BC about 15 Sept.

  West Ridge very hard for us so we search West Ridge, maybe South Face.
  Summit attack 9-12 Oct.


  Fujiwara & Pritchard - 16 Aug 72

  Base Kaphe Khola, same approach as this spring's expedition. On to South Ridge and then perhaps via South Face or possibly over South Ridge and onto West Ridge. Probably repeat this spring's route but decision to be made when get to the mountain. This expedition planned 1 year ago, before this spring's success.

  This the 1st YMCA Alpine Club in Nepal.
  8 members and 3 Sherpas + 2 kitchen boys.

  Leave KTM about 30 Aug to Pokhara on scheduled flight; leave Pokhara about 3 Sept and arrive base about 15-16 Sept.

  4 camps planned above base (but Pritchard expects at least a bivouac if not another camp in addition).

  Summit attack 10-12 Oct.


expid: TUKU72301
peakid: TUKU
year: 1972
route1: N Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Keiichiro Sakaguchi
sponsor: Tokyo College of Pharmacy Alpine Club Himalayan Expedition 1972
ascent1: 2nd official
bcdate: 1972-09-30
smtdate: 1972-10-17
campsites: BC(30/09,5070m),C1(08/10,5350m),C2(13/10,6050m),C3(16/10,6700m),Smt(17/10)
routememo:
  Sakaguchi - 7 Nov 72

  Arrive KTM 4 Nov all members

  BC - 30 Sept - 5070m
  C1 -  8 Sept - 5350m
  C2 - 13 Oct  - 6050m
  C3 - 16 Oct  - 6700m
  Summit 17 Oct by Matsuyama and Sirdar Lhakpa Norbu

  Only one summit attempt. Weather bad and members feeling high altitude and low spirits (homesick). So Sakaguchi felt should go down to Tukuche Village. Very lucky decision because day we withdrew (23 Oct) terrible blizzard. At BC very clear but over Thapa Col much snow, so if stayed 1 or 2 days longer could not have left BC.

  Climbing not so difficult, "easy but part of difficulty was high altitude, no oxygen". Reached Tukuche village 25 Oct evening and stayed 3 days.

  Arrive 4 Nov. All well, no accident or frostbite.
  "We search yeti but we cannot see."

  Found Pilatus Porter wreckage in Hidden Valley.


  Sakaguchi - 13 Sept 72

  Will climb Tukuche Peak (6920m) itself by northwest side (via Thapa Col and ridge off east of Dhambush).

  5 members in Nepal. Leave KTM 15 or 16 Sept and return KTM about 10 Nov. Pokhara to Tukuche bridge about 1 week. Bridge to base camp 3 days with luck.

  C3 highest camp about 6400m, summit about 20 Oct.
  Sirdar, 3 Sherpas, 1 cook and kitchen boy.


expid: DHA672301
peakid: DHA6
year: 1972
route1: N Ridge from W
nation: Japan
leaders: Akinobu Otsu
sponsor: Japan Rock Climbing Society Expedition to Dhaulagiri IV
ascent1: 3rd
bcdate: 1972-09-02
smtdate: 1972-10-15
othersmts: Attempted Dhaulagiri IV (DHA4-723-01); crossed Gama Peak (GAMA-723-01)
primid: DHA472301
campsites:
  BC(02/09,4100m),C1(08/09,4800m),C2(11/09,5300m),C3(20/09,5700m),C4(29/09,6300m),C5(03/10,6400m),C6(13/10,6900m),Smt(15/10)


expid: GURJ72301
peakid: GURJ
year: 1972
route1: N Ridge
route2: W Face
nation: France
leaders: Pierre Buttin
sponsor: Expedition Lyonnaise a l'Himalaya
ascent1: 2nd
ascent2: 3rd
approach: Dhorpatan->Kaphe Khola
bcdate: 1972-10-03
smtdate: 1972-10-21
termdate: 1972-10-25
campsites: BC(03/10,4420m),C1(06/10,5000m),C2(07,12/10,5700m),C3(15/10,6500m),Smt(21-22/10)
routememo:
  Buttin & Amy - 6 Nov 72

  All members arrive KTM today.

  Dhorpatan to Japanese BC in 4-1/2 days. Our base above Japanese BC at 4400m northwest of Ghustang and used Japanese fixed rope to glacier (Japanese very good gentleman, very amiable).

  C1 at 5000m
  C2    5700m
  C3    6500-6600m

  Fixed rope up spur to ridge 13-14 Oct; 18-19 to top of spur on 21st Oct. First group to summit and down by C3 and established on 21 Oct.

  C2 placed 3 times: 7th, 9th, 12th 
  On 21 summit: Mathieu, Sarthou

  Soubis and Buttin and 2 Sherpas and Mrs Buttin made C3 on 21st so they could make ascent next day from C2 1/2 on West Face. This route was Japanese route.

  Very difficult from C3 up to top of sugar (on 21st) but along ridge very easy but very sharp ridge with cornice and strong wind from west.

  Very easy via West Face: from C2 to C3 1/2 very deep snow only; above C3 1/2 steeper.

  Had hoped send others to summit, but 3 weeks from BC to summit and porters arrive BC 24 Oct so no time for others to try summit because had to return to KTM. Did not know about this pass. Leave KTM Sat. 


  Shrestha, MFA 

  21 Oct Sylvain Sarthou, Benoit Mathieu reached peak.
  22 Oct Mr and Mrs Buttin, Soubis, Sirdar Mingma Tsering and Pasang Sherpa.


  Amy to Rieffel - 19 Oct 72

  C5 5000m
  C2 5700m
  C3 6500m
  20-21 assault towards summit 
  24-25 leave base camp.
  Expect 12 days to Pokhara and arrive 5 Nov and proceed as rapidly as possibly. 


  Mathieu & Amy - 21 Sept 72

  All to Pokhara Today execept Buttin, Amy and Mathieu who go on Sat 23rd in RNAC Pilatus Porter charter with Emil Wick to Pokhara for 5 shuttles on Sat and Sun to Dhorpatan and for aerial survey by Buttin, Amy Soubis, Jillot and Machieu.

  3 or 4 days to base from Dhorpatan via Gurja village and thence to west and southwest of Gurja. On base same members walk from Pokhara starting tomorrow:

    Mrs Buttin
    Leroudier and wife
    Fresafond
    Sarthou

  Brocard will climb a little: to C1: is a climber (Alps and Peru)
  Mrs Buttin can go higher; she hopes to go to summit

  About 1 month for acclimatization and climbing. 3 or 4 camps certainly above base and advance base.


  Mathieus & Thomas - 16 Sept 72

  We left Lyons 27 Aug. 3 days in Lahore waiting for Thursday border opening. In truck with all baggage. Reached Nepal border last Sun. Reached Pokhara after 3 days and baggage in Pokhara. Aarrive KTM 14 Sept.

  Rest of expedition arrive KTM Monday RNAC. To Pokhara Wed or Thursday.

  Gurja routes now difficult so don't know exactly their approach except south is out of question. Will charter Pilatus Porter to make aerial survey and decide whether via northeast or northwest. Will attempt main peak (22,599 ft), same as that climbed by Japanese in 1969.


expid: PUMO72301
peakid: PUMO
year: 1972
route1: S Face
nation: France
leaders: Yves Pollet-Villard
sponsor: Expeditions Savoyarde 1972 a L' Himalaya
ascent1: 2nd,3rd
bcdate: 1972-09-24
smtdate: 1972-10-26
smttime: 1200
campsites: BC(24/09,5200m),C1(29/09,5400m),C2(05/10,6100m),C3(19/10,6600m),Smt(03-04/11)
routememo:
  Pollet-Villard - 16 Nov 72

  Members Yves Pollet-Villard, Jean Coudray, Yvon Masino, Georges Payot to summit 3 Nov; Maurice Gicquel, Pierre Blanc, Raymond Renaud and Ang Temba on 4th to summit. Doctor did not go to summit.

  Terrific snow and big wind defeated summit attempts between 26 and 30 Oct, by same team as on 3rd Nov. They waited one day in C3 and then down to base again up on Nov 1. All camps Ok except C1 where tent was destroyed but went straight then to C2 and C3.

  "Very difficult" route. All a long way, no platform; always nearly vertical; 60-65 degrees at least. 2 days to put one tent because no platform and made platform in ice C2 and C3. South Face directissima.


  Shrestha, MFA - 2 Nov 72

  Reached 22,770 ft 25 Oct
  Bad weather, rest to C3 and will try again 3 or 4 Nov.
  All well.


  Jan Boar - 26 Oct 72

  All members in base camp 21-22 Oct for rest. 3 camps already established on South Face. Perhaps a 4th camp would be needed. Any day after 23rd wanted to go up through camps to summit but cold, winds and cloud were problems.

  20 Oct C3 6600m this the last camp before the summit from leader received 24 Oct by Michelle, French embassy

  C1 established 29 Sept 5400m
  C2 established 5 Oct
  6100m at the foot of the rock face which constitutes a different point in the climb

  Expected progress stopped by bad weather which closed down on the area Friday and Saturday 6 and 7 Oct. All members returns to base camp. Return of good weather should allow resumption of progress, i.e., to climb over the rock face, to install C3 at about 6400m by the end of the week. The whole team is well.


  Shrestha, MFA - 1 Oct 72

  Pumori base camp established at 17,030 ft. No date given, message sent on 27 Sept.


  Thomas - 18 Sept 72

  With other flight at 9:15 today carrying Payot and 1 other member, all Pumori members have now left KTM for Lukla.


  Payot - 9 Sept 72

  Leader and doctor arrive today others tomorrow. Tues-Friday to Lukla for baggage and Saturday members and Sherpas.

  Pumori technically more difficult although not so long route. 6000 ft straight up from base, their routes on Pumori.


  Gicgeul & Payot - 4 Sept 72

  Base camp at Gorak Shep about 5200m. Climbing route South Face. 4 high camps with highest at 6600m.

  If face dangerous, try SW Ridge.
  "Too steep, too difficult that's no problem."
  No oxygen for climbing.
  Summit attack end of Oct - first of Nov.
  Chose Pumori because very difficult and very nice mountain.
  3500 kg baggage, 150 porters
  8 Sherpas
  All members from Chamonix except doctor from Paris
  3000m or more fixed rope on face
  Leave KTM 12-15 Sept by air to Lukla if possible
  All other members arrive 9 Sept

  Lenser says Pumori South Ridge is possible. "150m very steep and very difficult but possible in good weather."

  Lenser intended climb by this route in '62 but every day very strong wind.


expid: MAKA72301
peakid: MAKA
year: 1972
route1: S Face
nation: Yugoslavia
leaders: Ales Kunaver
sponsor: Yugoslav Expedition to Mount Makalu
approach: Tumlingtar->Shipton La->Barun Glacier (BC)
bcdate: 1972-09-05
smtdate: 1972-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m
campsites:
  BC(05/09,4900m),C1(08/09,5900m),C2(11/09,6300m),C3(03/10,7100,7200m),C4(12/10,7500m),C5(22/10,7850m),xxx(24/10,8100m)

routememo:
  ND Shrestha - 6 Oct 72

  Makalu expedition established C1 at 19,500 ft on 7th Sept C2 21,000 ft and 6 members had reached 24,000 ft while making route to C3.


  Kunaver - 24 Aug 72

  1 full flight today. Last flight tomorrow at 1:00 pm Twin Otter.

  165 porters - 25 Aug 72
  Leave Tumlingtar 26 Aug.


  Kunaver  - 22 Aug 72

  4 members already in Tumlingtar today. Today 3:11. Yesterday 8.

  Tomorrow about 5 more days after expedition leave Tumlingtar 25th Aug. About 10 days to base at same site as French and Japanese. About 5th Sept arrived probably five high camps. If follow French route, sites exactly known.

  "It would be very pleasant to finish summit 20th Oct. After that date the winds starts to blow a bit stronger. If choose southern side, will take longer as more affected by monsoon's ending and more difficult pioneering required."

  Mail in Sept via RNAC Biratnagar until Tumlingtar flights start.


  Kunaver - 19 Aug 72

  Plan to climb Makalu via S Face to either from Japanese route at 8000+ meters. Otherwise study French route. Depends on conditions: rock falling, etc.

  Scientists with expedition including Kunaver's brother. 

  Sirdar+ 5-6 French Makalu Sherpas. Total 10 Sherpas with hopes 4 will go very high, 6 shuttle from base to advance basecamp.

  45 climbing days, summit mid-Oct.


expid: KANT97101
peakid: KANT
year: 1997
route1: W side to 5230m pass between two peaks
nation: Japan
leaders: Sadao Yoshinago
sponsor: Osaka Alpine Club Patrasi Himal Expedition 1997
approach: Helicopter->Gangadhi by Rara Lake->Mugu Karnali->Mugu Khola
bcdate: 1997-04-27
smtdate: 1997-05-05
termdate: 1997-05-07
termnote: Recon expedition
othersmts: Climbed two minor peaks during May 5-6 exploration
campsites: BC(27/04,4500m),ABC(01/05,4230m),xxx(6328m)
accidents: None
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC  at Kagi Khola
  ABC pass between peak 6135m and 6328m on Tibetan border.

  From ABC 3 members climbed Pk 6328: ice climbing to top. Went to top from ABC and back to ABC same day. 6th May to top of very easy summit of Pt 6135m (only walking) and back to ABC. 7th May trekked 3 days down Kagi Khola and up Mugu Khola to Nanja Pass and then south to Jumla and out by air and bus to Kathmandu. 

  Will return in autumn 1998 for highest peak of Kanti Himal (6859m on Nepal Govt West Nepal map, but Ohnishi thinks is 6817m); highest peak of Kanti Himal named Kanti? Difficult steep climb as this mountain's East Ridge next year. This trip was primarily to explore, see route and plan next year's climb.


expid: MANA72102
peakid: MANA
year: 1972
route1: S Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Wolfgang Nairz
sponsor: Tirolean Himalaya Expedition to Manaslu
ascent1: 4th
countries: Italy
bcdate: 1972-03-21
smtdate: 1972-04-25
smttime: 1400
othersmts: Climbed Hervis Peak (1st ascent) and Stubaier Spitz (1st ascent)
accidents: Schlick and Jager disappeared; LO died of unknown causes (disappeared from BC)
campsites:
  BC(21/03,4300m),C1(04/04,5240m),C2(09/04,5850m),C2B(15/04,5850m),C3(20/04,6600m),C4(7400m),Smt(25/04)

routememo:
  Expedition climbed 2 minor peaks also

  2 virgin peaks climbed from great plateau by Austrians

  1) 6640m - Stubaier Spitz, west of great plateau of Manaslu
  2) 6890m - Hervis Peak, west of SW Ridge of Manaslu

  1) climbed 24th April by Fankhauser and Nairz, very steep ice climbing 
  2) climbed on 21st April by Messner and Jager, steep ice hill


  Nairz & Messner - 12 May 72

  Nairz: All members have now come by truck last night at 10:00 pm. Knoll and Nairz leave 15th to see embassy. All others to NDH 16th. In evening leave and 17th am home, 1-1/2 hours to Munich. NDH/Paris/Munich Wed 8:00 am.

  Messner loses nothing from fingers which are now pink.


  Messner: 

  Went to C4 7400m Messner and Jager on 24th April; put up 1 tent and on 25th about 6:00 am left this tent and two start for top. First part of route from C4 to top no difficulty only snow. Weather very good (little wind, earlier lot of wind but by 6:00 wind drying down).

  We made first part only a plain and after that we meet a little ice hill - at beginning of 2 big ice hills about 10:00. Franz said I will go back to the tent in camp C4 because impossible for him to reach the top in same day because of his constitution; long way 4-5 km and 800m in height and very difficult without oxygen.
   
  In evening of 24th Jager had said when down not sure of reaching top and back to C4 would return to camp - had lost some toes. Franz in good condition at 10:00 and weather good on north side (south side could not see). Not necessary for Messner to return with him because easy way, easiest part of whole route and weather good.

  Messner was himself not sure too reach summit same day and to return to C4 also when he knew he could not reach summit and return same day; biv without oxygen in cold would be dangerous.

  Messner goes up, not so very difficult: 40-degree ice (needs great strength which Messner had. Jager sees Messner stronger and can do it alone but he couldn't). Messner had temperment which Jager hadn't).

  I go 4 hours; 1st part 2 ice hills and then long rock crest. 1 tower after another each looks like top; 6-7 towers in all and on last tower found 2 pitons and remains of flag pole left by Japanese last year or 1956 (1 piton brought back).

  Weather: little wind from south and sees south clouding and fog so stays on top only few minutes. Goes back along crest which is Ok but when reaches ice hill. Very strong wind and fog and very difficult to find route but rocks along route were like markers and made it possible to find route. Wind and snow and fog increased very much. When reached plateau, can't see with goggles and must take them off. Storm increased and must go backwards. When on plateau no stones; snow pyramids from am were different and he lost his concentration and he doesn't know where he is. I go and go and go and after while I hear voice of Franz; hear him calling Reinhold and I think sure he's in the tent. I try to find direction by his voice but in the storm this was impossible. I try and try to find tent and this crying lasted perhaps 1 hour. Finally found tent at 7:00. If not find tent I think I would have died. 4 times back and forth on crest when C4 is before finding tent. Thinks now Jager also lost on plateau within few hundred meters of C4 and blinded by snow and wind.

  When Messner arrives and no Jager. Fankhauser goes out few minutes and hears Jager. Fankhauser and Schlick go out to look for him and then lose their way.

  Messner 1 hour in tent. After radio contact with others, goes out but can hear and see nothing. Weren't in and out all night until midnight and then sure 3 together in cave or bivouac by tent buried in snow and snow in tent. Next am Fankhauser comes alone. Strong wind but no fog and snow falling and he can easily find tent. Fankhauser and Messner searched plateau but could find nothing. Others could not come up to help because of avalanche danger and deep snow and too dangerous: others must come down searched 2-3 hours, 5-6 times around plateau; "impossible to find anything in this new snow."

  Started down about 11:00 am. Messner's 4 right fingers giving pains and swollen. 4-5 years ago in Alpinism attacks of big faces of 8000m: Annapurna South Face, Nanga Parbat South, Makalu Pillar.

  South Face Manaslu: characteristics of both classical route and these big faces (classical = butterfly valley). 1st part much more difficult then Nanga Parbat South.

  Austrians had few Sherpas and carried loads themselves.

  Think their Manaslu climb highest done without oxygen and earliest success on 8000m peak. Did not use oxygen because believed if acclimatized properly, don't need it and showed this correct.


  Nairz - 3 May 72

  Extremely difficult 4000m south faces of Manaslu climbed within 5 weeks. 1st 8000m peak in April.

  25th Messner and Jager started from last camp 7400m to climb summit. After few hours Jager resigned wanted return to camp. Messner continued and reached summit at 2:00 pm.

  During descent terrible snowstorm started. Because of dense fog Messner had to search for 4 hours for the tent and almost didn't survive in storm. Surprised not to find his friend Jager in the tent. Schlick and Frankhauser who ascended to last camp on same day started immediately to look for Jager. During search snowstorm swelled to a terrible force and last possibility to survive was to dig a snow cave. Schlick died this night from cold and exhaustion; also Jager. Frankhauser survived the night and in morning found tent. In spite in frostbite Messner and Frankhauser tried to find comrades but in accent was worse new snow was hopeless.

  Under greatest exertion and avalanche danger they could reach C3 by themselves. After this tragedy whole team to base camp and expedition ended.

  Very good harmonic team; never any troubles between members with Sherpas.

  Jager's wife had baby boy in March and Schlick's wife expecting in about July.

  Others reach KTM 10 May.


  Fankhauser - 3 May 72

  Reinhold and I ahead up to C2. Then very bad snowstorm and tent lost. After that I was not so well and hear of Korean accident and say we have to go base camp.

  Reinhold Messner makes C3 and C4. From thence Reinhold Messner and Franz Jager start to climb summit from C4. At same time Schlick and I start to go up to C4 from C3 and found Reinhold and Jager not there. Arrived about 2 o'clock. After some time, we hear something crying in very bad weather. I look out of tent and I see Reinhold coming. Reinhold asks if Franz in the tent and I say no, Franz is not here. Then he says you must go and look, I have heard Franz crying. I have been out and I hear Franz as well. I go back to tent, take my rucksack (first & biv) and Andi (Schlick). At that time weather a little bit better then before. We went out and were shouting and we hear Franz shouting as well. Then the storm started again very badly and we could hear nothing, we lost his shouting. I had to put big goggles on and they iced and took them off my eyes full of ice and snow and I could see nothing - nothing with goggles and without goggles. Now dark too: 9-10 o'clock I said to Andi we must build snowhole now this our last chance. I have done this and we go into the snowhole and we stay some time in there and Andi was always saying to me we must find the tent (C4). One time I was going out with him to try to find C4 and after short time I see no chance to see C4 and weather was really terrible and I build another snowhole. We were going into snowhole again and he asked me to rub his legs and hands. I have done this, he was very cold so I was sitting in snowhole and I have him sitting on me (lap) to keep him warm from my body and after some time after some hours, he said I want to look at the weather now. We had closed the snowhole and he opened it with his feet and I see him going out, his legs, he goes to one side and that's all I see. I came out after a little while and I see no track and no Andi. I have called him and no answer. If I go out after him, I know I am lost too; no tracks and storm still. I go back in snowhole and I must stay awake making my feet and bending and arms going to keep me warm otherwise I have no chance to stay alive. I stay there all night in the snowhole in the morning. Then next morning when it is really day windy but clouds lifted up. In night 1-1/2m fresh snow after 3 hours breaking trail in this snow I came back to C4 with a little bit of hope to find Andi there, but he was not there, only Reinhold. Reinhold cooked me some Ovaltine and after some rest we go back up to look after them, but so much snow we couldn't see anything and weather started to go worse again and so after sometime spent to find those 2 we say we must go down because way from C4 to C3 is on ice wall with 1400m of length (800m height) and it was very dangerous from avalanching could come. Before this situation comes we have to go back otherwise we couldn't go down. (Also Fankhauser frostbitten feet and Messner frostbitten fingers).

  This was really a terrible night I have in the mountain at 7700m. What we want was to help Franz but we couldn't. Then storm was so bad we could see nothing. Back at C4 we take our important luggage and rest we have to leave up there in C3. Knoll was waiting for us and he and the Sherpas helped us very much. They take us down to C2 where Dr. Wolfie have broken trails to help us to come down and Dr. looked quickly after our frostbite and he has given me some infusion and Reinhold infusion also will be his home tomorrow. Left base camp on 28th. 4 days to Pokhara with sore feet "very hard way."

  Nairz and Fankhauser arrive KTM today. 
  Schlick and Jager died on 25 April in terrible storm.
  Fankhauser frozen feet, not too bad.
  Messner frozen fingers, comes from base camp to Pokhara now.


  18 April 72

  Reached base camp 6 April after leaving Pokhara 28th. In 4 days reached Naeje village. On 5th day, 1 April, at 9 am met Karki coming from base camp and his 2 porters. He told her too dangerous to go to base alone with her 1 porter and better to go with him - seh 


  Nairz - 13 March 72

  7:00 pm everying evening Manaslu expedition will receive weather report from Prinz, starting 28-30 March.

  Leave KTM 14 March to Pokhara; leave Pokhara 15, reach BC on 22nd; summit attempt end April; early May Pokhara. 

  Other members left. 


  Nairz - 4 March 72

  13 March others arrive and leave for Pokhara after 1 day to catch up.

  Advance to Pokhara 5 March, leave 7th and take 10-11 days to BC area with porters.


expid: MANA72101
peakid: MANA
year: 1972
route1: NE Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Jung-Sup
sponsor: Second Korean Manaslu Expedition
countries: Japan
bcdate: 1972-03-11
smtdate: 1972-03-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to fatal avalanche at C3
campsites: BC(11/03,4300m),C1(14/03,5200m),C2(22/03,5850m),C3(27/03,6500m),xxx(27/03,6500m)
accidents: 5 members and 10 Sherpas killed by avalanche
agency: Unknown, if any
routememo:
  Hawley Reuters Dispatch - 14 Apr 72

  Three persons, one Korean and two Sherpas, survived huge avalanche that completely destroyed Koreans C3 (6500m) on Manaslu early morning of April 10.

  Korean is Kim Yae-Sup who actually survived five avalanches and gale force winds that terrible morning and who briefly recounted his horror to Reuter's this morning in Shanta Bhawan Hospital here while nurses gently bathed in warm water his badly frostbitten feet. He was brought to Kathmandu ex-basecamp by helicopter this morning with the expedition leader's eldest brother Kim Jung-Sup and the expedition's reporter Yun Byung-Hae who were not at C3.

  The avalanche took the lives of four Koreans, one Japanese and ten Sherpas. One Korean dead was climbing leader Kim Ho-Sup who had vowed to conquer Manaslu this time and recover the body of another brother Kim Ki-Sup who died last spring at 7600m on the same side of Manaslu from fierce winds that swept him off his feet. Other dead are Oh Sae-Keun, Song Joon-Haeng, Park Chang-Hee, Japanese photographer Kazunari Yasuhisha, nine high-altitude Sherpa porters and one Sherpa cook.

  Kim Yae-Sup said he woke about midnight that fatal night to make some hot water and to prepare for an early climbing start. Two Sherpas commented to him that there had been too much snowfall. They were worried about snow conditions on the mountain-side. At about 3:15 am, Kim heard the terrible noise of the huge avalanche and woke two members in the same tent and they tried to get outside, but the avalanche struck first and they were carried 800m downwards from C3 (at 6500m) with three shattering bounces before on the 4th bound they stopped moving.

  Both Kim's companions were still alive and spoke to him: Park said whole the midsection of his torso was crushed and his spine broken; Yasuhisha told Kim his left rib and right shoulder were broken.

  Then another avalanche struck them, burying Kim's two friends and carrying him 300m further downwards.

  Three more avalanches hit Kim, but he survived with frostbitten feet and fingers; possible internal injuries not yet known. "I think I am very lucky boy and God is with me," Kim said this morning in the hospital bed. Kim's family are Christians.

  There were four other tents in C3. In one were three Koreans, Kim Ho-Sup, Oh Sae-Keun and Song Joon-Haeng and two other tents held ten Sherpas. All perished in this disaster. The expedition is not continuing. Four surviving Koreans are still in the mountains and will return with recoverable baggage.


  Kim Yae-Sup - 14 April 72

  Very big snow and ice avalanche destroyed 5 tents and 1 kitchen at C3 at 6500m at 3:15 am 10 April. 2 Sherpas say too much snow. 

  Japanese and Park Chang-Hee in same tent and he woke them up and tried and go outside. Avalanche carried them 800m down in 3 bounces and on 4th stopped. Japanese says right shoulder and left rib broken; Park said whole body cut and spine broken. 

  At C3 2 Sherpas clearing snow from tent and now alive. 9 Sherpas and cook in 3 tents at C3 and they died. Other members in C3 in another tent. 

  Another avalanche came and covered his 2 companions and he was swept 300m more down. Had altogether 5 avalanches and very strong winds. "I think I am very lucky boy and God is with me."

  Frostbitten fingers and feet, extent of injuries not known. At Blue Star: Yun and leader. They were not at C3; climbing now ended.

  Dead members:

  1) Kim Ho-Sup
  2) Oh Sae-Keun
  3) Song Jong-Haen
  4) Park Chung-Hee
  5) Kazunari Yasuhisha (Japan)
   

  Kim Ho-Sup - 10 Feb 1972

  12 members altogether. 5 arrive KTM today. 1 to NDH for prepare gas. All arrive 20th except leader Kim Jung-Sup (his elder brother) who will come later because very busy businessman but comes for brother's sake.

  Expedition leaves KTM 25 Feb by truck to Trisuli Bazar.

  Caravan and climbing route (NE) same as last year. East side technically no trouble but last year "swimming in snow" and terrible wind driving snow into face - "man's power nothing against terrible wind."

  Reach base 10 March.

  I know already where crevasse and icefalls are bad already fixed rope up to 7600m so by mid-April 1st attack party will be sent up.

  5 camps with highest at 7700m or 7800m (100 or 200m higher then last year, so summit attempt far their easier).

  If succeed bring back younger brother's body and brought special box to return him to Korea for burial; also to bring body down, brought snow boat.

  3 brothers and 1 brother-in-law in this expedition
  10 Sherpas 
  10 other porters up to C2

  Kim Ho-Sup's son born one day before reached Churen East Peak summit.


  Names of dead Sherpas (as provided by Pemba Tshering Sherpa, a HA-porter on the expedition):

    Sirdar:           Pemba Rinji from Jorsale (aka Lama Ngawang Chultim)
    Second Sirdar:    Rinji Wangel Sherpa from Phaplu, Solu
    Climbing Sherpa:  Ang Tendi from Thami


  From Rising Nepal - April 15, 1972

  "The ten Sherpas who met with their tragic fate were Sardar Pemba Rinji, second Sardar Rinji Wangel, 28-years old Ang Mingma, 37-years old Angmingma, Andrita, Pasang Nima, Angtendi Ang Dawa, Phurba Tenzing, Gyalze and Wangel Kook."


expid: LHOT72101
peakid: LHOT
year: 1972
route1: From SE Barun Glacier
nation: W Germany
leaders: Gerhard Lenser
sponsor: German Lhotse Expedition
approach: Khumbu Valley->Chhukung
termnote: Never reached mountain
routememo:
  1st to Chhukung and to Lhotse Glacier 5400m preferably Austrian Lhotse Shar base camp. Plan to reach 6220m saddle, where would put advance base camp but 600m very steep wall west of saddle not possible for porters. Why Austrians and Koreans not interesting to Lenser because already done by others. Wanted to do East Ridge of Lhotse which not yet climbed and still hopes to do this.

  Then thought to go to Khumbu Icefall but then heard of troubles with Everest expedition between Sherpas and members (heard from Sherpas at Chhukung) and didn't like to go there because would not be independent.

  Then went back to Khunde and arranged with few porters. 4 Shepras to Mingbo to 5400m height. Made camp there and stayed 2 days there. Very bad weather. Returned to Khunde on 12th and waited there for reply from RNAC for early flight to Tumlingtar. 13 days from there to base camp and had to reach it in April or not at all this season. Sherpas now have left equipment in Khunde and ready to go to Barun Glacier in early Sept maybe with Tumlingtar flight, maybe walking but sure to reach base camp in time via Sedua and Makalu expeditions route up Barun Glacier and east side of 6220m saddle. When above this ridge in upper parts will need fixed ropes. Maybe with 1 or 2 more Germany members. Holz also coming.

  "Very much disappointed" when found ice wall; preferred reaching saddle. Stays KTM 9-10 days and then to Germany.

  Lenser said ice wall too difficult for Sherpas and would take 2 weeks to put in enough fixed rope to enable them. Wants to approach Lhotse from Makalu side. 

  Did not raise permit question, only airlift to Tumlingtar and time required to reach base.


  Gerhard Lenser - 12 March 72

  Point 7500 - Shartse
  Point 7589 - Peak 38

  Expedition's route: Imja Khola to Lhotse Shar Glacier or across col north of Cho Polu (Hardies Col) at 6220m and north there along ridge to Pts 7500 and 7589m. Then problem: from Lhotse Shar to Lhotse possible.

  If snow and avalanche bad, may try via W Cwm. Only 2 climbers, Lenser and Holz.


  Lenser - 9 Feb 72

  Cargo due Bombay 20th Feb. Lenser on 17th Feb Bombay.
  Imja Khola - SE Ridge of Lhotse.


  GB Shah, MFA - 9 April 72

  Message of 5th April from Namche requested permussion for Lenser party to go into Kosi Zone (Sedua). Reply to LO allowing him to go into Kosi Zone should have gone to Namche today.


  Aeschluia - 8 April 72

  Lenser said ice wall too difficult for Sherpas and would take 2 weeks put in enough fixed rope enable them. Wants to approach Lhotse from Makalu side.

  Did not raise permit earlier, only air flight to Tumlingtar and time required to reach base.

  Lindsay Strong - 31 March 72

  "The Lhotse party left here (Khunde) last Monday (27th March), and by now they should be well established in their base camp."


expid: CHOB72101
peakid: CHOB
year: 1972
route1: NE Face of N[W] Ridge
nation: W Germany
leaders: Wolfgang Weinzierl
sponsor: Chobuje 1972 Spring
ascent1: 1st
approach: Beding->Upper Rowaling Valley
bcdate: 1972-04-08
smtdate: 1972-04-24
othersmts: Climbed Pimu (PIMU-721-01) and attempted Chugimago (CHUG-721-01)
campsites: BC(08/04,4300m),C1(14/04,5100m),C2(17/04,5900m),C3(18/04,6200m),Smt(24/04)
routememo:
  From Ripimu Glacier we went up the NE Face of the NW Ridge. We followed these and ridge and climbed on the end of the West Face up to the top.

  Chobuje 1972 Spring
  Climbed 24 April 1972

  Climbed by Gustav Harder, Klaus Harder, Peter Vogler, Wolfgang Weinzierl.
  W Face to Summit.
  No Sherpas above BC.

  W Germans 1972 Chobuje route = NE Face
  14 days climb
  3 high camps: snowholes
  5100m
  5900m
  4200m
  Summit 24th April 1972
  5 members - 4 on top

  Wolfgang Weinzierl (Leader)
  Peter Vogler
  Gustav Harder
  Klaus Harder

  According to DAV publication.

  Chobuje Spring 1972

  Harder on his bio form for Churen Himal Aut 1983 gave route as NW Ridge.

  From Col 6125 up E Face, Leader of NZ Spring 1985 expedition understands from correspondence with Germans on account of climb in German Publication; leader Nankerv is in KTM March 1985.


expid: PUTH72101
peakid: PUTH
year: 1972
route1: S Ridge-S Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiroyasu Takahashi
sponsor: Seppyo Alpine Club Putha Hiunchuli Expedition 1972
ascent1: 2nd
approach: Pokhara->Beni->Mayandi Khola->Gurja Khani->Kaphe Khola->BC
bcdate: 1972-03-23
smtdate: 1972-04-28
smttime: 0830
termdate: 1972-05-04
accidents: No accidents, no sickness, no trouble
campsites:
  BC(23/03,4400m),C1(28/03,5000m),C2(01/04,5300m),C3(07/04,5700m),C4A(17/04,6200m),C4B(23/04,6400m),Smt(28/04)

routememo:
  Takahashi - 17 May 72

  7 members arrived today by plane and all others will by bus later today. Climbed South Ridge 600m ice face and then 800m summit by South Face. Summiters Aoki and Ang Norbu. Attack camp at 6400m to summit on 28th April. All fixed rope up 70 degrees ice face and from C4 up surface most difficult part summit face's ice (300m) and rock (500m). About 60-degrees steepness. All members in turn put in fixed ropes up snow down and South Face.

  Long circular route between C2 and C3 under hanging glacier. Made temporary C4. Halfway up ice face. Used oxygen for climbing.

  From attack camp summiters left 4:00 am and on summit 8:30, stayed 1-1/2 hours. Up lift all fixed ropes - only 3 pitches had to put in themselves. Day before Takahashi and 1 Sherpa had put in rope up to 7100m; finished late: 3:30 pm at this altitude, so quit and returned to C4.

  2 members to summit. No other attempts.
  No accidents, no sickness, no trouble.

  Clear mornings, afternoon and night every day snow, but no avalanches: only difficult, no danger.

  Takahashi comes Nov for winter climb Annapurna South Face; he maybe climbing leader; from Rakusei Club, Tokyo.


  Takahashi - 27 Feb 72

  Putha Hiunchuli

  Takahashi and Chigai arrive today. 6 more arrive 5 March (they arrived as scheduled). Leave KTM for PKR 8th March; caravan 14 days.

  Climb PH via South Ridge untried route via Kaphe Khola. BC at 4100m with 4 more camps at 6400m, maybe one more (biv tent at 7000m) with summit attempt 5th May. 4 Sherpas.

  S Ridge involves 800m pillar just below summit; rock ice mixed with fixed rope all its height.


expid: NAMP72101
peakid: NAMP
year: 1972
route1: S Face-W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Seigo Matsushima
sponsor: Aomori Japanese Expedition to Nepal Himalaya 1972
ascent1: 1st
approach: Dhangarhi->Baitadi->Chamlia Khola
bcdate: 1972-03-31
smtdate: 1972-05-05
smttime: 1230
termdate: 1972-05-08
agency: Trans Himalayan Trekking (THT)
campsites:
  BC(31/03,3980m),C1(04/04,4800m),C2(14/04,5395m),C3(24/04,5547m),C4(29/04,5880m),Biv(04/05,6500m),Smt(05/05)

routememo:
  Matsushima - 3 June 72

  Matsushima and Sawada arrive today; Komiyama and Kimura await another flight.

  Only one summit attempt made. C4 established 29 April by Kimura and Takahashi. Arrived 4 May then from C4 on West Ridge at 5:30 started for summit with bivouac bag. West Ridge very steep and very difficult followed ridge almost all way to summit from col. Route already made halfway above C4 but knew would take 2 days to summit. 

  4 May night bivouac at 6500m. 5 May between reached summit 12:30 and stayed 1 hour for photos and sketches, left flags.

  Started down together 1:30 pm, same route down. Kimura down first abseiling and waiting for Takahashi who started down. 5 or 6m from ridge west of summit, fixed pix came off and he fell down onto north face 2000m. Not possible to reach him: no equipment or manpower and anyone can't survive such long fall; like falling out of airplane.

  Sawada and Sherpa Sona up in support and helped Kimura down from 6300m 5 May.

  Matsushima little rib pain. Komiyama hurt knee but now all right.

  Same route as British; fixed their fixed rope.


  Matsushima - 3 March 72

  Dhangari 3 days
  4 week caravan
  Arrive BC about 3 April
  Summit 27 April + 5 days lee way
  Finish climbing - 1 May return to BC


  Matsushima - 21 Feb 72

  Expedition leaves in charter Dakota 
  27 days caravan to base camp
  35 days climbing period of research for mapping and dental conditions
  Arrive KTM 20 July
  Mail via Trans-Himal Tour


  Matsushima - 17 Feb 72

  He arrived today and 4 others 10 days after 10 days; expedition to fly to Dhangari on 1 March in charter flight with 1300 kg baggage. 3 Sherpas.

  Route via Chamlia and Nampa Col. 2 camps on glacier and C3 perhaps same as British C3 site. Perhaps C5 not necessary but will carry 1 small tent to C4 for possible need beyond C4. If possible will put C2 on Col but maybe Col too far. Route via West Ridge.

  Would like to know from Allen re snow rock ice conditions of West Ridge and nbr of Sherpas - steepness above C3 50-60 glacier.
   
  West Ridge seems only route: South Face 3000m very steep and East Ridge has very difficult icefall and other problems.

  Expedition's route to and from the mountain: Kathmandu by air to Dhangari-Doti-Chamlia Khola-base camp-Chaubishi-Seti Khola-Talkot-Jumla-by air to KTM.


  British Manchester Expedition to Nampa

  Climbed via West Ridge. Highest point reached was 20,500 ft where C5 was pitched.


expid: MAK272101
peakid: MAK2
year: 1972
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Tadashige Nishiyama
sponsor: Kanchungtse Reconnaissance Exp from Denki-Tsushin Univ
bcdate: 1972-04-04
smtdate: 1972-05-04
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to lack of supplies for summit bid (recce only)
campsites: BC(04/04,4800m),C1(09/04,5230m),C2(15/04,5800m),C3(20/04,6320m),C4(04/05,6700m),xxx(06/05,7000m)
routememo:
  7 members arrived NW Ridge after setting C4 at 6700m on 6 May (by Ito and 1 Sherpa). No C5 because no tent; this time recce party only. This ridge possible: "some difficult, not very." Did not try other peaks because supplies for 40 days only and 39 days on Kangchungtse.

  No accidents, no illness.

  For 25 days no members in BC. All in high camps. When come back to BC on 9 May money gone. Lost $1450 + Rs 7000 in BC; C1 $150 + Rs 28,000 in money boxes which broken open in BC - Rs 1000 left in Rs 1 Notes.

  I may sent expedition again in 1974 to go to to summit. Last year Japanese try only 200m climbing only reached 6500m, but not yet on ridge which is 7000m.

  Kangchungtse and other peaks around Pyramid, Junction Peak.

  NW Ridge, same as last fall's Japanese expedition BC in Barun Glacier at about 4800m; go to about 6800m.

  5 members, 4 arrived today
  Leave KTM about one week from now
  LO to be assigned from MFA


expid: DHA472101
peakid: DHA4
year: 1972
route1: W Col-W Ridge from S
nation: Japan
leaders: Fumio Kobayashi
sponsor: Japan Gunma Himalaya Expedition to Dhaulagiri IV
bcdate: 1972-03-23
smtdate: 1972-04-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to member death from AMS
campsites: BC(23/03,3450m),C1(27/03,4700m),C2(31/03,5100m),C3(16/04,5800m),C4(26/04,6200m),xxx(30/04,6300m)
accidents: 1 member died in C4 altitude sickness
routememo:
  If Japanese fail, Austrian team led by Franz Huber of Landl, and Dhaulagiri II 1971 have applied for next spring.


  Dr Tanaka - 27 May 72

  All that survived arrive today and in good health.

  C4 highest camp; route beyond 20 fixed ropes (each 50m). All fixed rope from C1 farthest point reached on 28 April at about 6000m (200m below C4) by Matsui and Kuichi and 1 Sherpa. 28th both very tired from their climbing. That night both had bad coughs and couldn't sleep. Next day rested in C4. On 30th 7:00 am they said on walkie-talkie to all camps they would go to C2 or C3 that day but 9:00 am or after very slowly putting ob boots and getting ready, but then until 12:00 doesn't know what happened, sleep or unconscious and when revived at 12:00. Matsui in same position at entrance struggling with boots; Kiuchi put Matsui into sleeping bag and very hot and wanted water to drink; soon Matsui became unconscious and breathing very short and shallow. Dr going down and doesn't hear news on walkie-talkie contact at noon.

  Yagi and 1 Sherpa making route beyond about C4 at this time. Matsui at 12:45 stops breathing and heart stops. At 2:00 Yagi returned about C4 and Kogure arrives from C3 and on walkie-talkie contact from Yagi and Kogure that Matsui dead and Kiuchi very tired, cannot walk.
   
  Dr leaves C3 for C4 3:45 pm and arrive C4 at 5:55 pm and saw Matsui dead and Kuichi face very much swollen (moon faced) and severe cough and short breath; every 2 hours injections prosolin and other medicine, including sedative so can sleep and thus able go down. May all members from C4 to C3 where is oxygen and more injections; with oxygen and medicine next Kuichi can walk. From C3 to C2 very difficult and dangerous knife ridge and snow face; arrive C2 on 2 May about 6:00 pm.
   
  3 May bad weather and all in C2.

  4 May to base camp. Dr. and Kuichi and 5 Sherpas. Kuichi still on injections. Now Dr. realizes some eyesight defect and other effects, all now almost gone.

  May 5 - 5 members and Sherpas up to C4 and put Matsui's body in crevasse near C4.

  May 8 - expedition decide abandoned further climbing because 1 member dead and 1 ill and route very long and dangerous.

  Route possible but very difficult and need many members and many Sherpas and good weather and good luck; may require C8 and 12 members, 15 Sherpas.

  Weather this year good but by 9 or 10 o'clock cloudy and snowy in higher altitudes.

  Found fixed ropes of Austrians and last years Japanese but no tents or bodies.

  No other accidents.
  Stay KTM 1 week and then to Japan.


  GB Shah - 5 May 72

  1 member D-IV died
  Takajuro Matsui
  30 April at 6 pm at C4 6200m
  Dr. said death of pulmonary edema
  C4 established 26 April
  Baglung Police greather LO
  Whether continuing or not known; if fail another Austrian to try.


  Tanaka - 26 Feb 72

  Hamana goes to Pokhara and returns Japan, not to base camp. Leaves KTM after about 1 week but not sure; cargo not here but all members are (Hamana, Tanaka and T. Kobayashi in Shanker); may go by truck, maybe by air or half and half caravan to BC 2 weeks route same as Austrians: Kanabon Khola to Kanabon Glacier and thence to point 6280m and onwards; will put one more camp than Austrians on sharp knife ridge (between C2 and C4 on this expedition's map).

  Maybe too difficult last part of climb below summit and may need take small tent to point AC on map for spending summit night on return to C6.


expid: EVER72101
peakid: EVER
year: 1972
route1: SW Face
nation: W Germany
leaders: Karl M. Herrligkoffer
sponsor: First European Everest Expedition
countries: Austria, Italy, Switzerland, UK
bcdate: 1972-03-21
smtdate: 1972-05-20
termdate: 1972-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 8350m due to cold weather (also low morale and team disunity)
campsites:
  BC(21/03,5250m),C1(03/04,6050m),C2(09/04,6450m),C3(17/04,6900m),C4(26/04,7400m),C5(11/05,7900m),C6(20/05,8200m),xxx(20/05,8350m)

routememo:
  Adi Weissensteiner - 2 June 72

  Don Whillans was not strong enough to reach summit. Austrians wanted Hamish to be in summit team, but out of loyalties Hamish left expedition with Whillans who had invited him on expedition in first place.


  MacInnes, Scott and Whillans - 28 May 72

  Of 55 persons, the non-pulling of weight of one person which caused failure.

  Don: if the Austrians had cooperated might have been successful.
   
  Scott: Proof; film on TV showing British making C4 and C5; compare speed of British and Austrians making camps.

  Scott and Whillans carried rope and tent to C5, repaired ropes from last year and returned to C4. Kuen and Huber came up to C4 and said British should go down - heated argument. Kuen threatened to go down themselves and call off expedition. British said they'd take 2 Austrians up and install them and also said once camp stocked British wanted come up too. Next day 3 British and 2 Austrians up. British first and leveled snow for tent. Austrians with 2 Sherpas carrying their Austrians personal gear. British then went down after they had done almost all work in putting up the tent, etc.

  Kuen and Huber all the way had Sherpas carrying their personal gear because they being saved for the top.

  Austrians went down off face for 10 days on early May to meet Herrligkoffer and took Sherpas with them for 10 days; not a one of them on the face "except for our work in those ten days - they'd never have had any summit attempt" - Don
   
  C4 reached on 26 April. Austrians found Japanese ropes, left part of a platform and a box tent and then went down and "away for the holiday." British then put up another tent at C3 and then went up to C4, selected sites, erected platforms and box tents on platforms. This the beginning of 10 day period when British in C4 and all others except Weissensteiner (in C2) were at base to "give rousing cheer" when Herrligkoffer would arrive in base by helicopter; holiday announced by Herrligkoffer upon his arrival at base.
   
  Whillans spent week in Munich trying to head off problems. Discussed Sherpa nbrs (40 he said and Herrligkoffer cut to 30) and their equipment (send required same as us and Herrligkoffer didn't bring at first).

  Don: "They were very much afraid of our getting in the lead; they extracted promise that after we'd go up to C5, we'd come down and we did go." Then the 10 days rest for others which Don opposed and British carried on work alone.

  Don no doubt about it: there was anti-British feeling right from the beginning. "We finally just got sick of it" both Perner and Berger separately declared "I no carry for English." Most didn't understand British had a job to do, a film unit to make a film.

  Austrians never accepted fact it was a European expedition. Never accepted Saleki, Berger, Breitenberger either. Some Austrians also unhappy and threatened not to carry for others, then Kuen directed this to British.
   
  Perner in Panorama Hotel in beginning said the Austrians especially Kuen don't like British and there's going to be trouble.

  Leader, a doctor, refused to recognize acclimatization needs. Expedition flew to Lukla, rushed to base camp, rushed into icefall. "He even did himself in."

  Austrians never put up a tent for British.

  Scott: "It was as though they tolerated us to get maximum information from Don and then cut us out"

  Don: "This failed because they cut us out too soon. There was still too much work to do and they not strong enough to do it." 


  Whillans - 27 May 72

  We reached an important stratum and made it impossible to stay with the expedition; left expedition 19th. Went to 26,000 ft all 3 on 17th to make C4. We cut out snow for platform for tent. Situation between British and them became such it impossible to stay with expedition. When started? roots in the beginning.

  3 British arrived today from Lukla.


  JOM Roberts - 24 May 72

  "Compared to International expedition considering how much better weather and strong climber they had rather disappointing that they failed make full use of these advantages and didn't apparently failed even to reach as high a point as did intense last year.

  Everest

  20 May est 6 and last 8200m
  21 May summit attempt reached 8250m
  Sudden bad weather expedition abandoned 23 May; leave base 26 May.

  3 attempts by SW Face: 1 Japanese, 2 international


  Breitenberger - 8 May 72

  Glad to be leaving expedition. International expeditions never work out well. Everest SW Face route impossibly dangerous. Other members thought he was pretending to be ill, but lost about 20 kg on Everest.

  Saleki not a very good climber; could not have gone to C4 alone.


  Herrligkoffer - 4 May 72

  Goodbye from Himalaya with broken heart, better then sick heart, I take farewell of any avocation (hobby job) as initiator, leader and doctor of 10 Himalayas expeditions. During the preparations works of Everest expedition, I got seriously ill with influenza, or the consequence was heavy heart trouble, but my health was better as the months passed and I thought that I can do my job as leader and Dr.

  So that I would not have too much work as expedition Dr, I tried to find an experienced mountaineering Dr. I thought of Dr Karl Winkler of Munich but shortly before our departure, he had to say no because of his work. I tried to get a substitute for him, and I found this in same 2 Drs, Dr Zeitz and Dr Fach, who have planned studies. But also these Drs have trouble with leaves and had to have base camp after 2 weeks. However they could do my work at this time while I have to search equipment.

  On the planned date, 30 April, I again reached base camp, to save time I flew by helicopter from KTM to 5400m, in 2 days from Munich to Everest. The 1st 3 days, all seemed to be going well. With the help of oxygen, I tried to acclimatized on the 3rd day I felt so well, I thought I could do without any oxygen; in the night of 3/4 May I got pulmonary edema. Dr. spite of hallucinations my own situations was clear to me and also my responsibility to the expedition and I decided to take the helicopter which was due to arrive on this day (Leo Breitenberger has to fly out at his own wish because of pneumonia). Also in the helicopter Werner came with me; he has injured his leg from a rock fall on the SW Face of Everest, that is my farewell not only from the Everest expedition but also from the Himalayas.

  Will I look for other expedition? Yes, but only at lower altitudes for 1973-74 is planned on Antarctic expedition, in so called Admiralty mountains with mountains about with 4000m. They came out of the sea directly and connect the coast with inland ice.


  Haim's leg not broken; will return soon and after 2 weeks perhaps climb again.

  Breitenberger has pneumonia, in hospital; to Italy next Thursday; hope Herrligkoffer not back to base. Will stay KTM few days then Germany.

  Anderl now assured not much snow on Face. From Cwm to C3 is ice like glass - and half to C4 also ice and then rocky - much stonefall. All above C2 wear helmets. Schneider had sure hit his helmet 2 May. Whillans box tent in C4 kaput; took 1 platform to C4 and found another already there.

  Haim carried to C3 from C2 and C1 with part of Japanese platform at C3; left 12:30 from C1 with him and snow that morning and reached base only at night and fell in crevasse; in this difficult part had crawl/walk - 3m deep; pulled out by Schneider and Huber and 6 Sherpas.

  C4 at neck of rock found, C5 on right side and better. C5 to be established about 11-12th; camp will be highest camp with biv above. Don wants C8 but Kuen doesn't like it.

  If I came one day later in helicopter we have a strike. 12 Sherpas asking for their money and Rs 1000 near given sirdar as guarantee that equipment coming (4 sacks with him ex-KTM only to Pheriche).

  Can make 2 groups 4 men each for summit and if weather permits 2nd group after helping 1st with oxygen can themselves go to summit - it is necessary 1 man sure on top rather then 8 members perhaps - if 8 men stop 100m from top "this for nothing."

  Haim's "rock" - Schneider's rock size don't know: deflected by Helmet and he not hurt.

  C3 protected from rock by overhang and C5 off to one side and also Ok.

  From C4 will follow Whillans-Haston route. Will start up above C4 on 8th; expect find some fixed rope from last year above C4 but danger may be broken.

  1st summit group maybe
    Whillans
    Scott
    Kuen
    Huber

  2nd group
    Perner
    MacInnes 
  ? Schneider 
  ? Maag if acclimatized (always at base until recently)
  ? Sager


  Herrligkoffer - 4 May 72

  Haim and Breitenberger rock fell from C2 to C3 on top of him, broke leg bone, 1 May.

  Breitenberger fever and pluersey in lungs; camps to base 29th; became sick in C2; had helped C4.

  Herrligkoffer came, wants X-ray of Haim. Haim would came only since helicopter; will return to base camp to help there.

  Breitenberger to Italy. Whillans and other British today in C2; he made camp C4 ready and then down. Weiss and Sager in base since yesterday for rest until 7 May; no one in C3 and C4 today.

  If weather is also good I think climbers have success 20 May. 

  3 platforms at C3
  1st in C4:
    Kuen
    Haim
    Huber
    Breitenberger

  made fixed rope to C4


  Saleki - 30 April 72

  Saleki well. Saleki left expedition today. Told Binaya better one nation go to mountain. "I'm so glad I have finished. I am free man."

  Saleki brought Breitenberger from C2 to base yesterday sick; pain in mid-section and coughing a lot, but others don't believe he's really ill just lazy. Saleki doesn't think he can climb any more.

  Saleki kept Breit's arm over Saleki's shoulders and roped together; to C1 this way taking 3 hours to do (1 hr - from C1 then icefall almost carried by Saleki and Sherpas).

  Saleki doesn't say why he left but he expects fight on wall between Breitenberger and Austrians.
   
  Bednar now returned to expedition, but carrying only very slowly and light loads - in C1 carrying to C2 these days.

  Don now climbing well. Scott now climbing well and pacing themselves well.

  C3 on ice - not using platforms so far.
  C4 platforms may be same Japanese some new.
  Saleki to stay KTM same days, 3-4 days then to Germany.

  English have no friends on expedition except Saleki. Don feigns leg pains so as not to be forced carry loads every day.

  Icefall towers fallen between route is still open - much fixed rope under towers and Sherpas spend every day [fixing it]. 

  British-Australians relations better now.

  yesterday C3 Hamish
               Don
               Scott

  from C4      Schneider

  yesterday C4 Berger
               Perner

  Today to C4  Don
               Scott
               Schneider

  to stay and go above

  This morning 30 April:
  Base camp
    Gorter
    Anderl
    Sager - left for C1
    Van Hobe
    Herrligkoffer
    Breitenberger
    Maag

  C1
    Bednar
    Weissensteiner

  C2
    Kuen
    Huber  }  carrying to C3 and back
    Haim

  C3
    Don - to C4
    Scott - to C4
    Hamish 
    Schneider - to C4
    Berger 
    Perner


  Drs Zeitz and Fach - 6 April 72

  Study absorption of fatty emulsion which indicates resistance to virus and bacteria; will later add to subject same medicine and see how it changes requires extreme care and precision. Will do 50 persons.
   
  Stay 2 weeks, then to KTM 2/3 May.

  Test at base - possibly above base at C1 and C2 are fixed official members of expedition but had to finance separately, by watch Company and order firm.


  Herrligkoffer - 4 April 72

  Herrligkoffer and Anderl ex-Pheriche and Von Hobe. Expedition going on very well; reached base 26 March at 5400m same as last years camps.

  2 hrs Sherpas strike. 4 loads equipment and food lost and Sherpas wouldn't go on before they had equipment and only would start when have full equipment. Now Herrligkoffer goes earlier and quicken then originally placed for a contract; now gets equipment and brings it back with him.

  12 Sherpas have full equipment and they go every day; others go also up to C2.
  Will return to Nepal in 2 weeks.

  Have reached C1 2 April and today Kuen, Huber, Haim and British to C1 to stay - beyond icefall top at 6000m. Kuen established camp with other Austrians and Sherpas will bring 15 down jackets and trousers and boots - must be exactly same as members (+ boots must be Sherpas smaller).

  Climbing has been exactly according to plan.

  Austrians team is very good in their work.

  Miss Von Hobe to see KTM and Anderl to arrange food climbers in C2 will reach C2 in 2 days.

  Weather very cold = 10-15 degrees in night. Fair every day until midday little cloudy.

  Kuen in danger of climbing expedition - Weist and Maag.
   
  Whillans not fully acclimatized yet; is at base - dizzy - better then last year.


expid: ANN197301
peakid: ANN1
year: 1997
route1: N Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Marco Bianchi
sponsor: Italian Annapurna I Expedition
bcdate: 1997-09-06
smtdate: 1997-09-25
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(06/09,4200m),C1(15/09,4900m),C2(24/09,6000m),xxx(25/09,6100m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C2 at foot of North Face
  High point at beginning of North Face.

  After 1 night in C1 on 15th down to BC because snowing above 5000m and raining below. 25th Kuntner and Eberhoefer 200m behind C2 and then too deep snow and down to BC. Now too dangerous to go up from avalanche danger; [stopped climbing] because of bleak prospect of success.

  Kuntner, Eberhoefer and Catteruccia go Xixa, leaving KTM 8 Oct.


expid: ANN497302
peakid: ANN4
year: 1997
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Herbert Streibel
sponsor: DAV Summit Club Annapurna IV Expedition 1997
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 1997-10-10
smtdate: 1997-10-20
termdate: 1997-10-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to snowfall
campsites: BC(10/10,4650m),C1(15/10,5350m),C2(19/10,5950m),xxx(20/10,6400m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC at same altitude and place as other German expedition
  C1 at normal place and same as other Germans 
  C2 at same as other C3
  High point just before actual start on NW Ridge.

  Climbing stopped [on Oct 24] by one week of new snow fall. All tents broken into by winds which also opened rucksacks.


expid: ANN497301
peakid: ANN4
year: 1997
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Manfred Salcher
sponsor: Annapurna Friendship Expedition to Annapurna IV
bcdate: 1997-10-08
smtdate: 1997-10-21
termdate: 1997-10-26
termnote: Abandoned on 23 Oct due to snowfall & avalanches
campsites: BC(08/10,3900m),C1(11/10,4700m),C2(14/10,5400m),C3(22/10,6000m),xxx(21/10,6200m)
accidents: Salcher frostbitten toes and fingers but will heal
agency: Om-Mane Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Sabje Khola
  High point at the Dome.

  21st Oct Bayer and Polster made deposit at C3, fixed rope to 6200m and down to C2, getting late and not enough food for them and 2 others coming up to stay in C3, and also birds were destroying tents so did not want to pitch and leave empty a tent. Also problem of mild illness among members in BC and C1 and they unable to carry supplies up at this time. 

  22nd Polster and Salcher occupied C3 intending to make C4 at 6500-6600m but on 23rd heavy snowfall and down to C1. Salcher got badly frostbitten fingers and toes (were frostbitten 2 years ago on McKinley so now sensitive to freezing and when pitched C3 he took off his gloves to work with the tent). Now climb finished with heavy new snowfall (1 m at BC in one day) and avalanching.


expid: ANNS97301
peakid: ANNS
year: 1997
route1: E Ridge (Himalchuli's W Ridge)
nation: Belgium
leaders: Bernadette Laloy
sponsor: Laloy Annapurna South Expedition
bcdate: 1997-10-08
smtdate: 1997-10-16
termdate: 1997-10-17
termnote: Abandoned due to inability to find a route
campsites: BC(08/10,4100m),ABC(14/10,4650m),xxx(16/10,4900m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at Annapurna I BC
  ABC at Hiunchuli ABC (north of Hiunchuli)
  High point at West Ridge of Hiunchuli.

  Sherpas went up from ABC to find route; after few hours reported huge crevasse impossible to cross (but Czech on Hiunchuli said there was no crevasse) and they left for BC. 2 members alone to search route and went to 4900m-5000m and back to ABC. Sherpas came back to ABC on 17 Oct and said they did not want to climb this way, but to abandon attempt and 2 Belgians, not wanting to climb alone, also abandoned climb. Snowfall and weather would have prevented their reaching top.


expid: TILI97301
peakid: TILI
year: 1997
route1: N Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Johannes Rauner
sponsor: Swiss Tilicho Expedition 1997
approach: Jomsom Thrung La Phedi
bcdate: 1997-10-14
smtdate: 1997-10-23
termdate: 1997-10-27
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to too much of snow
campsites: BC(14/10,5200m),C1(22/10,5400m),xxx(23/10,5800m)
accidents: None
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  There was snow up to the chest and there was fresh snow as well.

  Rauner will come back in spring to climb Cho Oyu and Shishapangma.

  Only Rauner and Schaublin went above BC at all because extreamely deep snow.


expid: FANG97301
peakid: FANG
year: 1997
route1: E Face-S Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Yu Jae-Hyung
sponsor: 1997 Korea Fang Expedition
bcdate: 1997-10-04
smtdate: 1997-11-08
termdate: 1997-11-13
termnote: Abandoned due to fatal accident
accidents: Seo's leg injured by avalanche 10th Nov; Hong slight frostbite; Kim fatal fall
agency: Hyecho Adventure Trekking
campsites:
  BC(04/10,4600m),C1(13/10,5400m),C2(16/10,5900m),C3(30/10,6400m),C4(05/11,6900m),C5(07/11,7200m),xxx(08/11,7300m)

routememo:
  BC above Modi Khola on East Face
  C1 at snow ramp on East Face
  C2 on East Face.

  C3 pitched 23 Oct, then snow avalanche came and not occupied till 1 week later. 7th Nov Kim and Lee Hag-Young slept in C5 and 8th Nov Kim and Lee making route beyond C5 and while doing this Kim fell 50-100m; Lee returned to C4 when other members were. 9th Nov 4 members slept again in C4 hoping for helicopter search but helicopter cannot go that high and no search on the ground also. Body not seen. 10th Nov 4 members go down C1; climb now finished.

  C1-C3  1400m
  C3-C4  1200m
  C4-C5   150m
         _____
         2350m   fixed rope on rock in snow which made climbing difficult.

  While climbing ridge strong wind and much new snow falling - on face much avalanching ("continuous avalanche" says Yu).


  Korean Climber Dies
  By Elizabeth Hawley

  Kathmandu, Nov 14 (Reuters) - A South Korean mountaineerer fell to his death on November 8 while climbing in the Nepalese Himalaya, Nepal's tourism ministry announced today.

  The climber was a member of a nine-man South Korean expedition to a 7647 meter (25,089-foot) peak in the Annapurna massif; the peak is widely known as Fang but officially named Varaha Shikhar.

  According to the ministry's report, Kim Yea-Hoon, a 25-year-old employee of a mountaineering-equipment company, who lived in Kwangmyung, plunged 50 meters (165 feet) down Fang's slopes from an altitude of 7200 meters (about 23,600 ft) on November 8. He died from his injuries the next day.

  The expedition abandoned their attempt to scale Fang, the ministry, said because of the death of their teammate and are on their way back to Kathmandu.

  If they had been successful, they would have been the first Koreans to summit Fang and the first mountaineers from any nation to succeed in the autumn season. The mountain is considered to be very difficult to climb, and its summit has been reached only once, by an Austrian team in the spring of 1980 on an entirely different route from the Koreans eastern approach.

  Kim was unmarried. His team was led by Yu Jae-Hyung from Chuncheon.


expid: DHA197307
peakid: DHA1
year: 1997
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Sergei Bershov
sponsor: Ukraine Dhaulagiri Expedition 1997
bcdate: 1997-10-08
smtdate: 1997-10-15
termdate: 1997-11-04
termnote: Abandoned due to dangerous snow conditions
campsites: BC(08/10,4750m),C1(12/10,5800m),C2(13/10,6600m),xxx(15/10,7000m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  C2 at normal site on NE Ridge.

  Stopped by very deep snow at 7000m on 15th and retreated to BC next day. Few days later reached C2, tent broken, ropes under snow and "dangerous situation" and back to C1 from which had spent 2 days making new trail to C2. Snow chest deep. Trying to leave BC, took 3 ferries by members to get all the gear out since only few porters would go to BC.


expid: DHA197306
peakid: DHA1
year: 1997
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Valeri Shamalo
sponsor: Russians on Dhaulagiri I
bcdate: 1997-10-06
smtdate: 1997-10-15
termdate: 1997-10-25
termnote: Abandoned due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(06/10,4750m),Biv(08/10,5000m),C1(12/10,5800m),C2(13/10,6600m),xxx(15/10,7000m)
accidents: Nothing (cook Bhola Kazi Tamang badly frostbitten after leaving BC)
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  Biv on first ascent
  C1 at snow cave
  High point at NE Ridge.

  10th Oct down to BC. 15th Oct with Ukrainians to 7000m fixing rope and down to BC on 16th and resting 3 days longer. Had problems getting to BC from Marpha; had no Sherpas and could find few Marpha porters to help ferry loads across deep snow in passes to BC. Were very slow climbers. Had to bivouac at 5000m on way to establishing C1 at 5800m; always climbed together. On 22nd Oct were going up again but half-meter new snow fell that day.

  12 Nov 97 - Ukrainians said the three Russians climbed with the Ukrainians and abandoned their attempt at the same time and high point as Ukrainians.


expid: PUTH97302
peakid: PUTH
year: 1997
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Jeal-Paul Trichet
sponsor: DEFI 1997 Expedition to Puthi Hiunchuli
approach: Kakhot on Barbung Khola->Kaya Khola via pass just N of Pt 4394
bcdate: 1997-10-30
smtdate: 1997-11-05
termdate: 1997-11-06
termnote: Abandoned on at 6200m due to dangerous snow conditions
campsites: BC(30/10,4800m),C1(31/10,5300m),C2(03/11,5950m),xxx(05/11,6200m)
accidents: Sonam Rendu Sherpa leg injured in crevasse
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC near point 4718m
  C1 on moraine just next of glacier northeast of point 6127m
  C2 on ridge above glacier (between points 6127m and west of point 5002m and 6148m)
  High point on NE Face.

  Arrived at BC 28 Oct but did not stay there till 2 days later because porters could not reach it without trail made by members. Attempted summit on 5th Nov but not beyond 6200m because slab avalanche danger.

  Some members had started slab avalanche on 3rd and now on 5th found condition too dangerous and retreated to BC. Very cold on north side. Only one day of good weather.


expid: DHA197302
peakid: DHA1
year: 1997
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Bulgaria
leaders: Nikolai Petkov
sponsor: Indep. party on ANN1 Spanish permit but climbed DHA1 instead
ascent1: 95th
bcdate: 1997-09-11
smtdate: 1997-09-25
termdate: 1997-09-28
othersmts: Climbed Sita Chuchura (?)
campsites: BC(11/09,4700m),C1(21/09,5900m),C2(22/09,6700m),C3(23/09,7500m),Smt(25/09)
agency: None
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at Col
  C2 on NE Ridge
  C3 on NE Ridge.

  3 Bulgarians came to Dhaulagiri, but only Petkov & Tonchev came to Dhaulagiri BC. After BC reached went to climb several mountains from camp at Dhampus Pass; 3 members (3rd men's name not known) did this climbing, which for Petkov and Tonchev was acclimatization. 3rd man stayed at Dhampus Pass while others were on Dhaulagiri. Moved very fast up Dhaulagiri after return to BC; had series of temporary camps. 24th Sept both climbers tried for top: Tonchev reached 8000m and Petkov only 7700m and both back to 7500m camp that night. 25th Tonchev stayed in camp while Petkov went alone to summit and back to camp. Both returned to BC, the day Spaniards left BC to try Annapurna I.

  (Bulgarians were on Spaniards Annapurna I permit but not on any permit for Dhaulagiri).

  Austrians on DAV German-Austria-Dhaulagiri expedition said Bulgarians very fast climbers. Ukrainians said Bulgarians scaled Sita Chuchura and "many" mountains in Nepal. In Pamirs so well acclimatized when they went to Dhaulagiri and could climb it very fast.


expid: DHA197304
peakid: DHA1
year: 1997
route1: NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Chantal Mauduit
sponsor: Fireband Expedition to Dhaulagiri I and Annapurna I
bcdate: 1997-09-17
smtdate: 1997-10-18
termdate: 1997-10-19
termnote: Abandoned on 18 Oct due to Sherpa's frostbitten toes and deep snow
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(17/09,4650m),Biv.NECol(13/10,5600m+),Biv(14/10,6300m),Biv(15/10,6700m),Biv(16/10,7200m),xxx(18/10,7500m)

routememo:
  BC at normal site
  High point at NE Ridge.

  For 10 days Spaniard's liaison officer wouldn't permit Sherpa Ang Tshering to climb with her and she did not want to climb alone, so went to do other climbing in the area of BC. Then when LO said OK to climb, rain and snow began - went onto mountain. 3 times at end of Sept to 6300m and down to BC: in early Oct to 6400m and down to BC in very deep snow. On 13 Oct to NE Col (5600m+), 14th to 6300m, 15th to 6700m (deep snow), 16th Oct to 7200m, 17th Oct rested at 7200m, 18th Oct to 7500m. Now very cold (Ang Tshering's toes very cold) and down to BC at 8:00 pm that night and climb finished with snow very deep. 19th to Marpha and 20th to Jomsom for doctor to care for Ang Tshering's toes. They returned to Marpha to get porters to go to BC and bring out all gear left there with cook and kitchen boy. Only one porter went to BC and his toes badly frostbitten.

  Did not go to Annapurna - all gear stuck in Dhaulagiri BC and Ang Tshering's feet frostbitten.


expid: DHA197305
peakid: DHA1
year: 1997
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Sigi Hupfauer
sponsor: DAV Summit Club Dhaulagiri Expedition
countries: Austria
bcdate: 1997-09-25
smtdate: 1997-10-19
termdate: 1997-10-21
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to dangerous snow conditions
campsites: BC(25/09,4750m),C1(30/09,5800m),C2(13/10,6600m),C3(19/10,7400m),xxx(19/10,7400m)
accidents: Dorje altitude sickness; Hupfauer's serious infection
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at NE Col
  C2 on NE Ridge
  C3 on NE Ridge
  High point at C3.

  Avalanching on North Face prevented climbing onto face as normally done above 7000m. 19th Oct night cloudy and light snowfall and 8:00 am on 20th heavy snowfall so down to C1. Planned on 20th for summit but had to abandon their plan. Left a tent at C3 for Russians. Climb now finished because very heavy new snowfall daily and therefore more and more dangerous.

  Hafele was leader of Austrians on this expedition, but it was one expedition of Austrians and Germans.


expid: TUKU97301
peakid: TUKU
year: 1997
route1: N Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kazuhiko Tokutake
sponsor: Togokushidohjin Tukuche Peak Expedition 1997
approach: Via Dhampus Pass
bcdate: 1997-10-09
smtdate: 1997-10-12
termdate: 1997-10-16
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to bad conditions and lack of time
othersmts: Climbed Dhampus (DHAM-971-01)
campsites: BC(09/10,4950m),C1(11/10,6100m),xxx(12/10,6300m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC southeast of point 5087m on Japanese map at north end of glacier
  C1 on North Ridge south of little Tukuche Peak, where route came onto ridge.

  Much snowfell and avalanching started so stopped at 6300m. Had no time to wait for better conditions. Went to Dhampus (Thapa Peak) where no snow (only rock); climbed from Thapa Pass via West Ridge on 15 Oct Arakawa, Hirokazu, Ozaki, Tokutake, Yoshida, Pasang Kami Sherpa and Hasa Gurung; easy climb in 5 hr Pass to Peak and 2 hours back to Pass.


expid: PUTH97301
peakid: PUTH
year: 1997
route1: S Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Stephen Adamson
sponsor: 1997 Canadian Putha Hiunchuli Expedition
approach: Kaphe Khola
bcdate: 1997-10-23
smtdate: 1997-10-29
termdate: 1997-11-03
termnote: Abandoned on 29 Nov due to deep dangerous snow
campsites: BC(23/10,4100m),C1(27/10,5000m),xxx(29/10,5500m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at others BC site 
  C1 at stony grassy ridge leading to met - 3 miles from mountain.

  Point 5500m had some bad avalanche slopes off small ridge of moraine of a past glacier. Came down to BC and climb finished. BC much too far from mountain as were on south slopes of a mountain still a far away. Would have needed 3 weeks of good weather but had only one day. No wind but very much new snow and had difficulty leaving BC because of it.


expid: DHA197301
peakid: DHA1
year: 1997
route1: N Face-NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Masayuki Matsubara
sponsor: Japanese Alpine Club Dhaulagiri I Expedition
bcdate: 1997-09-08
smtdate: 1997-10-18
termdate: 1997-11-04
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to bad snow conditions, wind, supplies of food and fuel running short
campsites: BC(08/09,4700m),C1(15/09,5450m),C2(22/09,6000m),C3(28/09,6700m),C4(16/10,7100m),xxx(18/10,7500m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at normal site for NE Ridge route
  C3 at bottom of Pear
  C4 nearly at top of Pear
  High point at NW Ridge.

  At C3 and above no good places for camps, so had to dig away snow to make small sites for C3 and C4 on very steep snow face. 18 Oct reached NW Ridge at 7500m and intended to pitch C5 near that point but down to C4 and on 19th and 20th down to BC because wind and snow. After this reached only C2 because heavy snow fall (BC 1m - high altitude 3.5m) and winds. At C2 on 1 Nov only to retrieve gear, not to make progress higher on mountain.


expid: RAKS97301
peakid: RAKS
year: 1997
route1: Raksha Urai III - NE side (to 5200m)
route2: Raksha Urai IV - SE side (to depot at 5100m)
nation: Austria
leaders: Guenther Mussnig
sponsor: Austrian Raksha Urai Expedition 1997
approach: From Chainpur along Seti river->Saipal (yak huts no people)
bcdate: 1997-10-01
smtdate: 1997-10-06
termdate: 1997-10-13
termnote: Abandoned due to heavy snowfall, avalanche danger and lack of time
campsites: BC(01/10,4100m),ABC(02/10,5000m),Depot(06/10,5100m),xxx(06/10,5100m)
achievment: 1st attempt on massif
agency: Himalayan Sherpa Nepal
routememo:
  BC  2 hours west of Saipal
  ABC at snowslope of East Face of Raksha Urai III below East Ridge
  Depot below icefall below SE Face of Raksha Urai (not slept in).

  Raksha Urai has 6 summits, southern west summit is called Dhulagari 6632m. Deep gorge between Dahachaur and Goranphu, one day's trek south of Saipal village. To go to Raksha Urai or Dhulagari, is best to go via valley directly from Goranphu. 4 of six peaks are entirely rocky, but Raksha III and IV are snow domes with ice face or ice ridge - rock not stable. Raksha IV is exceedingly steep - depot reached on 6th and gear left this but slept in ABC. Now snowfell 3 days and 3 nights but then weather cleared and 10th up from BC to ABC for attempt to climb but ABC almost completely destroyed, but after rebuilding it slept there. 11th 4-member summit attack team went up but all slopes unstable snow and everywhere avalanches; 2 reached depot and cleared it and did clean mountain. On 3rd meanwhile 4 from ABC onto snow ridge to icefalls and stopped here; trying to get onto snow routes to same peak, Raksha Urai IV. Another approach route would be from Simikot, shorter and at higher elevation, but not sure there is a pass to give access to Raksha Urai. Most days via route used rained in afternoon.

  Possible to climb and from Salimor Khola, south of Nampa, to west side of Raksha Urai peaks.

  Police checkpost established at Dhulli said this team 1st foreigners to reach the post ever.

  High points reached:
    to depot at 5100m on Raksha Urai IV:
       5th Oct - G. Mussnig, W. Mussnig, Simmler and Wieser
      11th Oct - U. Lackna and Pokorny

    to 5200m on Raksha Urai III:
       3rd Oct - M. Lackner, Pokorny, Schiechl, Zoehrer

  Only these members listed above went above ABC.


expid: CHOY97321
peakid: CHOY
year: 1997
route1: NW side from S
nation: Spain
leaders: Jesus Martinez
sponsor: Galicia Desafio 8000 to Dhaulagiri I
ascent1: 278
approach: Khumbu->Nangpa La
bcdate: 1997-11-01
smtdate: 1997-11-06
smttime: 1400
termdate: 1997-11-10
othersmts: Climbed Dhaulagiri (DHA1-973-03); attempted Annapurna I (ANN1-973-02)
campsites: BC(01/11,5200m),Biv1(02/11,5700m),Biv2(03/11,5900m),Biv3(04/11,6600m),Biv4(05/11,7600m),Smt(06/11)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Mountain House
routememo:
  BC at Chola, Nangpa Glacier moraine
  Biv Nangpa La
  Biv Gyabrug Glacier, east of point 6600m on Schneider map
  Biv slightly above C1's normal site.

  Rocha went to 5900m and stayed there photographing climb by Martinez brothers. Tony stopped at 7600m (toes cold and stomach problem) while Jesus alone to top at 2:00 pm. Clouds high but saw South Col. 2 brothers slept 6th Nov at 7600m and 7th Nov to 5900m. 3 men to BC 8 Nov. 

  Did not see any Tibetan-Chinese police/army personnel who left avalanche in October, Spanish believe. This team had Nepal's permit for SW Ridge but made no attempt on ridge. Nepalese liaison officer stayed.


expid: DHA197303
peakid: DHA1
year: 1997
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Jesus Martinez
sponsor: Galicia Desafio 8000
ascent1: 94th
bcdate: 1997-09-11
smtdate: 1997-09-24
smttime: 1500
termdate: 1997-09-27
othersmts: Climbed Cho Oyu (CHOY-973-21); attempted Annapurna I (ANN1-973-02)
campsites: BC(11/09,4700m),C1(13/09,5900m),C2(16/09,6700m),Biv(17/09,7000m),C3(23/09,7500m),Smt(24/09)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Mountain House
primid: CHOY97321
routememo:
  From C4 24 Sept started for top 9:00 am and on top 3:00 pm and down to C4 6:00 pm; 25 Sept to BC. Three members had left BC for summit bid on 21 Sept and slept in C1. 22nd to C3; 23rd to C4. On 27th team arrived at Marpha. Martinez brothers stayed there 4 days while Rodriguez went home and Rocha went to KTM to get permit for Annapurna I.


expid: ANN197302
peakid: ANN1
year: 1997
route1: N Face (French rte)
nation: Spain
leaders: Jesus Martinez
sponsor: Galicia Desafio 8000
approach: From Dhaulagiri I ascent
bcdate: 1997-10-08
smtdate: 1997-10-15
termdate: 1997-10-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to avalanche
othersmts: Climbed Dhaulagiri (DHA1-973-03) and Cho Oyu (CHOY-973-21)
campsites: BC(08/10,4300m),C1(10/10,5300m),C2(11/10,5900m),xxx(15/10,6400m)
agency: Mountain House
routememo:
  Planned C3 at 7000m but did not go above 6400m because huge avalanche came down from Sickle and cloud of avalanche in C2; had started up from BC on 14th Oct to C2 by 3 members (Martinez x 2 + Rodriguez). 15th up from C2 and avalanche made them retreat to BC on 16th. Would be very dangerous for next 15 days, so climb finished. From KTM will go trekking in Khumbu then go to Xixabangma, then perhaps return to Annapurna I or try Manaslu.


expid: GAN297301
peakid: GAN2
year: 1997
route1: NE side
nation: Japan
leaders: Keiji Nakamura
sponsor: Tokyo Alpine Club Ganesh II Expedition
approach: Buri Gandaki->Shar Khola->Damje village->Langda Khola
bcdate: 1997-09-25
smtdate: 1997-10-06
termdate: 1997-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 5200m due to deep snow, loss of equipment in avalanche and lack of time
campsites: BC(25/09,4000m),C1(03/10,4700m),xxx(06,16/10,5200m)
accidents: Nakamura altitude sickness; Toda high fever
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Note: This mountain previously known as Ganesh III till re-surveyed in early 1990's.

  BC at Tanagampa Glacier
  C1 at NE Face
  High point at 2 different spots on northeast side.

  From C1 attempted 2 routes on NE Face: 1) west from C1 NE Face and reached 5200m on 6th Oct and down to BC having left equipment then, very difficult above. 7 Oct saw avalanche sweep across route, fixed rope and equipment swept away; above was many crevasses: had planned to place C2 at 5300m. The 5200m point reached by Jakarta, Panima Lama Sherpa and Phurwa Sherpa. 

  Up again from C1 on 13 Oct via different line on this face, headed south from C1 and there snow very deep and time running out so turned back. This line possible (probably same line as '81 aut Japanese when the mountain was called Ganesh III). They now had lost equipment and no time left. Needed more members for this climb.
   
  13th: Sakanoto and Takahata only - 5100m and back to C1
  16th: Sakanoto and Takahata only - 5200m and now snow deep and no time
  17th: Tada & Panima and Phurwa Sherpa to 5200m to retrieve equipment.


expid: MANA97303
peakid: MANA
year: 1997
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Toichiro Mitani
sponsor: Meiji University Manaslu Expedition 1997
ascent1: 59th,62nd
approach: From Samagaon
bcdate: 1997-09-04
smtdate: 1997-10-08
smttime: 0950
termdate: 1997-10-13
campsites: BC(04/09,5000m),C1(14/09,5800m),C2(19/09,6350m),C3(23/09,6900m),C4(06/10,7500m),Smt(08-09/10)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Pertemba summited twice Everest with Bonington SW Face 1975 Autumn; 3rd time with Norwegian; Khumjung, VDC 49 years.

  2 Sherpas of second team used oxygen while sleeping but not while walking.

  All Japanese used oxygen while sleeping and walking. Made route. Then Basques and Slovakians followed. The other teams did not use oxygen.

  First summit group started of 5 am from C4 and reached C4 11:20 and slept C1 (reached C1 6:30 pm). Second group started at 5 am from C4 and reached C3 (they slept there) at 3 pm. Slovakians did not use oxygen; not enough acclimatization. Stayed in C4 one night instead of 2 nights like Japanese.

  Yamamoto will return Nov 17 or 18 (maybe for Annapurna); used C2 only once.


expid: MANA97301
peakid: MANA
year: 1997
route1: NE Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Karl Kobler
sponsor: Swiss International Manaslu Expedition
ascent1: 57th
countries: Ecuador, Germany, Liechtenstein
approach: From Samagaon helicopter landing site
bcdate: 1997-08-27
smtdate: 1997-09-19
termdate: 1997-09-29
campsites: BC(27/08,5550m),C1(30/08,5900m),C2(03/09,6900m),C3(18/09,7400m),Smt(19/09)
accidents: Berlinger serious lung infections; Zgraggen twisted ankle
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site just below glacier.

  Later summit parties Schmid & Kofler tried 3 times to get top but only to C3 (winds too strong all 3 times); also Kindle and Jenny (got only to 7200m and then Kindle not in good condition when he arrived in Nepal so stopped attempt).

  Nepal summiters - their 1st 8000ers Min of Tourism says
    Santa Gurung - 38 years old from Sunwara VDC, Gorkha
    Nima Tamang - 35 years old from Kerung, Solukhumbu


expid: MANA97307
peakid: MANA
year: 1997
route1: NE Face
nation: Slovakia
leaders: Peter Sperka
sponsor: Slovak Mountaineering Ski Alpinist Expedition 1997
ascent1: 61st
approach: Helicopter->Samagaon
bcdate: 1997-09-17
smtdate: 1997-10-08
campsites: BC(17/09,4600m),C1(20/09,5800m),C2(23/09,6800m),C3(06/10,7400m),Smt(08/10)
accidents: Kardhordo disappeared and Rybansky died on fixed ropes; Sperka's toes frostbitten but will heal
achievment: 1st Slovakian ascent
agency: Nepal Trans Himalayan Explorer
routememo:
  Late to BC because 5 days bad weather delayed flight from KTM. For top started from BC 3 Oct: Sperka, Kardhordo and Rybansky. 6 Oct same trio to go to top from C3 together but Kardhordo felt unwell (vomiting probably from altitude, but he said this was normal for him) but stubborn. On 8 Oct it was very cold and other two slow to emerge from tent while Sperka had to wait an hour for them (and he wearing only ski boots). Kardhordo very slow. Sperka went to top with last Spaniard and met Rybansky not far below top. Sperka saw Rybansky descending and met Kardhordo 5:30 pm at 8000m still going up, tried to convince Kardhordo to descend but still determined to go to top. Sperka continued down with weak Spaniards and finally reached C3 at 8:00 pm and 8:15 came Rybansky but Kardhordo never came. On 9 Oct Japanese found Kardhordo's rucksack and ski  pole below summit fixed ropes on ridge, may be 20m below top; don't know whether such a tired man actually reached top or was blown. Strong wind; body not seen. 9 Oct when Kardhordo and Japanese summit team reported by walkie-talkie they found only rucksack and pole, other 2 started down (about 10:30 am for C2 in wind and much snow and 100m ice block which very dangerous from avalanche. At this block at about 7300m Sperka descended first on fixed rope quickly but Rybansky down ropes very slowly and out of sight of Sperka but Sperka not afraid for him and went to C2 alone. Japanese later reported Rybansky found dead, attached to fixed rope and lying on his back, perhaps killed by heart failure; he is still there. All expeditions stopped climbing now in bad winds and lot of new deep snow with avalanche danger.

  8 members reached C2, all to C1. Sperka was wearing ski boots on 8th Oct rather than much warmer climbing boots because he had hoped to ski down mountain. One teammate fell into very deep crevasse but the ski on his feet prevented his plunging irretrievably to the bottom.


  Attached report to Reuters:

  16 Oct - Austrian Manaslu's leader and deputy leader:

  Sperka used Austrians oxygen in C3 on descent - Sperka centered on himself, not concerned about others - Japanese university team (Mitani) helped Sperke and Rybansky find C3 on night of 8th - the members and Sherpas switched lights on and off to making blinking signal for them to let them know where camp was - Japanese Sherpa helped Rybansky descend from C3 and was with him when he became too weak to continue, collapsed and died - Sperka never went back to look for him.
   

  BC-Nepal-Mountaineering
  by Elizabeth Hawley
   
  Kathmandu, Oct. 15 (Reuters) - The first Slovaks ever to reach the summit of the world's eighth highest mountain, Mt. Manaslu in the Nepalese Himalaya, gained the top of this 8163-meters-high peak on Oct 8, but their victory ended tragically for two of the three summit-team members, their leader told Reuters here soon after his return to Kathmandu.

  The expedition leader, Peter Sperka, said that he and two teammates, Jurak Kardhordo and Miroslav Rybansky, left their last camp at 7400 meters together on their summit day, Oct 8, but then made their way separately towards the top.

  Sperka, a 41-year-old mountain guide from Tatranske Zruby, was first to the top, the first Slovak ever to set foot on this lofty summit, and on his descent while still very close to the top he passed Rybansky, also 41 and a guide, who lived in Strbske Pleso, still on his way up.

  At 5:30 pm, Sperka met Kardhordo, 30 years old, a full-time climber (but not a guide) from Bratislava, who had not been well and was only at 8000m and still struggling upwards to make his own "conquest" of Manaslu.

  Sperka judged it was much too late in the day for a safe summit ascent of atleast one more hour and return to camp. He attempted to convince his colleague to come back with him.

  But Kardhordo was stubbornly determined to get to the top and continued very slowly on up. "He just kept climbing."

  Sperka returned to camp at 8:00 pm, well after nightfall. 15 minutes later Rybansky joined him. But Kardhordo never came.

  The next day some Japanese climbers reported to Sperka by walkie-talkie radio that they had just found Kardhordo's backpack and ski pole 200 meters below the summit.

  His body was never seen, and Sperka said it is not known whether Kardhordo actually reached his goal in his extreme fatigue and whether he was blown off his feet by the fierce winds or collapsed and fell down the mountain's precipitous south face.

  After hearing the bad news from the Japanese, Sperka and Rybansky left camp late that morning to continue their descent in more strong winds and through deep snow. They came to a barrier of a very large block of ice, and they had to make use of ropes fixed here to enable them to move on down.

  Sperka said he managed to move quickly down the ropes, but Rybansky was very slow and Sperka soon was out of sight of him and reached the next camp alone in mid-afternoon.

  Now Rybansky failed to join him. The Japanese later reported that they had found Rybansky dead, lying on his back and attached to the fixed rope. Sperka speculates that his heart had failed.

  Sperka rejoined his eight other teammates safely, but his toes had become frostbitten in the extreme cold and deep new snow. He is able to walk and is confident the toes will heal.

  His expedition had climbed without any Nepalese Sherpa helpers or any aritificial oxygen.


expid: MANA97308
peakid: MANA
year: 1997
route1: NE Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Markus Raich
sponsor: Austrian Manaslu Expedition
bcdate: 1997-09-22
smtdate: 1997-10-05
termdate: 1997-10-12
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to wind and snow
campsites: BC(22/09,4600m),C1(26/09,5400m),C2(04/10,6200m),C3(05/10,6900m),xxx(05/10,6900m)
accidents: Hoebenreich altitude sickness and left BC by chopper 4 Oct
agency: Sherpa & Swiss Adventures
routememo:
  High point at C3.

  1st summit attack party reached C3 on 5th Oct but on 6th weather was bad: snowing, foggy, windy. After this weather remained bad with avalanche danger and not possible to reach top; not even possible to retrieve gear at C2 and C3; no one after this (6th) was above C1.


expid: MANA97302
peakid: MANA
year: 1997
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Hirofumi Konishi
sponsor: Japan Manaslu Research Expedition 1997
bcdate: 1997-08-29
smtdate: 1997-10-08
termdate: 1997-10-13
termnote: Abandoned at 7690m due to heavy snowfall and avalanche danger
campsites: BC(29/08,4900m),C1(11/09,5800m),C2(18/09,6900-7000m),C3(20/09,7650m),xxx(08/10,7690m)
accidents: Pemba frostbitten toes which will be OK
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC as same as other teams.

  On 22nd C3 to BC by Konishi, Dawa Tshering Sherpa and Pemba Sherpa. C3 up 40m by Konishi and Pemba on 8 Oct, then feared frostbite (Pemba already started fingers frostbite) so down to BC same day. 10 Oct started heavy snowfall and Sherpa Dawa Tshering afraid of avalanching for long time, so not wanting to wait for safer snow conditions. Climb finished.

  * Yamamoto inexperienced in Himalayan climbing, used oxygen sleeping in C2 6th Oct and climbing with 2 Sherpas (who did not use it) to 7600m, where he received Konishi's advice to turn back because weather not good, and went back to C2. 9 Oct Yamamoto and Pemba flew from BC in helicopter to KTM; Yamamoto had to return to work in Japan.


expid: MANA97304
peakid: MANA
year: 1997
route1: E Ridge (Austrian & Swiss rtes)
nation: Japan
leaders: Kaneo Nakamura
sponsor: Suzuka Alpine Club Manaslu Expedition 1997
bcdate: 1997-09-05
smtdate: 1997-09-26
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to snowfall made great avalanche danger
campsites: BC(05/09,4700m),Deposit(5100m),C1(18/09,5700m),C2(26/09,6300m),xxx(26/09,6700m)
agency: Rolwaling Trek
routememo:
  ABC deposit camp (not slept in)
  C1 on East Ridge
  C2 on East Ridge.

  Wanted to put C3 at 7300m on East Ridge but big icefall above C2 forced route to traverse to right to plateau at 6700m and then planned to go up to ridge, but afraid of avalanching above. Had much new snowfall and tents broken in C1 and C2. Parts of ridge difficult knife-edge. Fixed rope from Deposit camp turn back point. Team who reached highest point stormed in C2 waiting for wind to drop but then big snowfall and everyone on team down to BC. Now stayed in BC till 8 Oct. 9 Oct up from BC 2 members and 6 Sherpas to C1 but very dangerous avalanching. 10 Oct arrived at C2 but again much snow. 12 Oct down to BC and climb finished.


expid: GAUR97301
peakid: GAUR
year: 1997
route1: N Face-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yasushi Yamanoi
sponsor: Japan Gaurishankar Expedition 1997
bcdate: 1997-09-04
smtdate: 1997-09-23
termdate: 1997-09-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to route difficulty
campsites: BC(04/09,4500m),Deposit(15/09,5500m),xxx(23/09,6300m)
agency: None
routememo:
  BC north of Palbugthangat at top of Schneider map on yak route
  Deposit at bottom of North Face
  High point at NE Ridge.

  After arrival at BC, Yamonoi checked East Face but little snow on rock face so reached North Face for solo attempt while Mrs Y. and Iwata went to NE Ridge from its north side. All 3 went to 5850m on NE Ridge (up ridge for acclimatization). At attack time Iwata's condition not good (poor acclimatization), so only the two Yamanoi's went up. Started midnight but after few minutes gave up because of many snow and ice avalanches. Changed route of attack for NE Ridge and started up at 10:00 pm 22 Sept from 5500m (deposit site) after waiting there for 2 days for snowfall to stop. Climbed till 4:00 am at 6300m where ridge became steep, narrow and many mushrooms and here no rope from ridge and climb finished. Slept in "deposit point" during acclimatization climb one night, 15 Sept and again for attack on 20 & 21 Sept. Reached NE Ridge at 5600m. Abandoned climb on 23rd because saw no other possible route except perhaps on North Face but face very dangerous because of many seracs falling. In colder weather may possible in mid-October. On 23rd returned to BC. Really this mountain from Tibet not feasible. Local people demanded much extra money and road frozen after end of Oct. Do not recommend climbing from Tibet.


expid: MANA97306
peakid: MANA
year: 1997
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Juanito Oiarzabal
sponsor: Arabako Expedition Manaslu 1997
ascent1: 60th
bcdate: 1997-09-09
smtdate: 1997-10-08
smttime: 1300
termdate: 1997-10-11
campsites: BC(09/09,5000m),C1(14/09,5800m),C2(15/09,6800m),C3(21/09,7400m),Smt(08/10)
accidents: Lasa badly frostbitten nose and fingers, Oiarzabal same frostbite
achievment: Oiarzabal's 11th 8000er
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at above normal site high BC
  C3 at plateau's edge.

  Tried for summit 3 times and only 3rd attempt successful. Strong winds, cold and snow deep prevented early success. Lasa slow to leave C3, waiting for sun, and ascended to top with 3 Slovakians (on top with Slovakian leader, other two later).


  Basque Mountaineer h]Has Important Success by Elizabeth Hawley

  When the leader of a climbing team of four men from the summit of the world's eight highest Oyarzabal, reached the summit of the world's highest mountain, Mt Manaslu in the Nepalese Himalaya, on Oct 8 with all of his teammates, he became the first Basque and first person of Spanish nationality to have summited as many as eleven great mountains that tower more than 8000 meters above the seas, and only the eighth climber of any nationality to have achieved this momentous goal.

  Oyarzabal told Reuters here soon after his return from his climb that "the winds were terrible, and it was very cold."


expid: CHOY97316
peakid: CHOY
year: 1997
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Eric Escoffier
sponsor: Cho Oyu 1997
ascent1: 276
countries: Germany
bcdate: 1997-09-18
smtdate: 1997-10-13
smttime: 1600
termdate: 1997-10-15
campsites: BC(18/09),ABC(21/09,5600m),C1(24/09,6400m),C2(10/10,7000m),Smt(13/10)
accidents: Desprat light frostbite of feet
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Days for summit were acclimatizing in C1 and then to C2 site but down to ABC. Left ABC 2nd Oct but bad weather sent them back to ABC same day. 8th to C1 4th time, 13 Oct were on top at 4:00 pm. C3 site 2 tents destroyed but no tent could have stood at all at normal C2 site at 7400m because of winds. Left C2 at 3:30 am to go up, in very cold weather but not such strong winds. At same time 2 others stopped at 7400m by wind and cold.


expid: CHOY97313
peakid: CHOY
year: 1997
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Roger Mear
sponsor: Himalayan Kingdoms Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 272,275
countries: Turkey
bcdate: 1997-09-07
smtdate: 1997-09-28
campsites: BC(07/09),ABC(09/09,5400m),C1(17/09,6300m),C2(21/09,6950m),C3(27/09,7400m),Smt(28/09,03/10)
accidents: Nothing
achievment: 1st Turk on summit
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  ABC at lower than others who were at 5650m.

  Mahruki from top to ABC in same day: from C3 to top in 5 hours; very fast and an active climber (goes to Lhotse next spring). 

  Only 3 members got above C2: people just didn't get in right place right time in terms of good weather.

  Mahruki climbed somewhat independently at his own fast pace, but was member of this group.


expid: CHOY97305
peakid: CHOY
year: 1997
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Pierre Schmidt
sponsor: Marathon Mountain Orleans Cho Oyu Expedition 1997
ascent1: 256
bcdate: 1997-09-01
smtdate: 1997-09-20
campsites: BC(01/09),ABC(05/09,5600m),C1(07/09,6400m),C2(19/09,7000m),C3(19/09,7400m),Smt(20/09)
accidents: Yam Bahadur Norgay (cook) got pneumonia
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Summit attempt of 20 Sept was made by members and 1 Sherpa, but Lancrenon gave up at 7900m from exhaustion; other 4 members had had enough and quit.


expid: CHOY97314
peakid: CHOY
year: 1997
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Carlos Soria
sponsor: Real Socieded de Alpinismo Penalaka Expedition Cho Oyu
bcdate: 1997-09-08
smtdate: 1997-09-21
termdate: 1997-10-07
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due winds and low motivation
campsites: BC(08/09,4800m),ABC(10/09,5700m),C1(15/09,6400m),C2(21/09,7000m),C3(21/09,7500m),xxx(21/09,7500m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Very windy. 3 people in C3 2 days but summit not possible so down. Another attempt but not past C2. Wanted to avoid frostbite so no more attempts. 

  Very windy very cold. Team did very little actual climbing: they watched other teams Sherpas struggling to reach 7800m without success and concluded it would be pointless even to try when these strong men were failing - so why go up at all?


expid: CHOY97310
peakid: CHOY
year: 1997
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Joaquin Colorado
sponsor: Sanga Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 260,262
countries: Portugal
bcdate: 1997-09-06
smtdate: 1997-09-22
smttime: 1300
termdate: 1997-10-05
campsites: BC(06/09),ABC(09/09,5600m),C1(12/09,6400m),C2(16/09,7100m),C3(25/09,7500m),Smt(22,26/09)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Ms. Lago climbed from C2 to summit to C2 on 22nd with Ongchu Sherpa. 

  All members slept in C2 but few on top because winds and others feared frostbite.


expid: CHOY97311
peakid: CHOY
year: 1997
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Fernando Marne
sponsor: Cho Oyu 1997 Spain
ascent1: 263
bcdate: 1997-09-06
smtdate: 1997-09-26
campsites: BC(06/09),ABC(08/09,5600m),C1(12/09,6400m),C2(17/09,7100m),C3(25/09,7500m),Smt(26/09)
accidents: Marne developed tooth problem (false teeth in upper jaw) at C2 but OK at lower altitude
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Gear at 15 Sept and slept there 17th. Then team in 2 parties, 1st on occupied C3 on 25th and went to top on 26th and to C2. Campos and Combis slept in C3 26th and try for top on 27th but at 7700m felt frostbite problem in toes on very cold day and returned to C3, waited few hours but feet no better, so down to ABC for better weather for 2nd attempt, but weather did not really improve enough to escape frostbite.


expid: CHOY97312
peakid: CHOY
year: 1997
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Henry Todd
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Cho Oyu 1997
ascent1: 266,274
countries: France, Japan, Mexico, Netherlands, USA
bcdate: 1997-09-06
smtdate: 1997-09-27
smttime: 1220
campsites: BC(06/09,4800m),ABC(07/09,5650m),C1(11/09,6550m),C2(16/09,7150m),C3(24/09,7550m),Smt(27/09,03/10)
accidents: Contreras and Le Poole slight frostbite
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  3 Oct summit party spent 5 nights in C2 waiting for winds to drop; on 3rd wind dropped slightly and they went for it since too long wait.

  Sherpa:
    Ang Tshering Sherpa, 22, Pangboche, his first 8000m summit


expid: CHOY97318
peakid: CHOY
year: 1997
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Michel Asselin
sponsor: Cho Oyu 1997
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 1997-09-25
smtdate: 1997-10-13
termdate: 1997-10-16
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to wind and cold
campsites: BC(25/09,5100m),ABC(27/09,5600m),C1(02/10,6400m),C2(05/10,7000m),xxx(13/10,7700m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  All others tents destroyed by wind 2-3 Oct. Members went above C2: Corneloup & Theron to 7700m on 13th Oct with Escoffier but Corneloup had to go down with eye problem. Asselin, Lacroix and Marrioti and 3 Sherpas from C2 at 2:00 am & arrived at 7600m, then very strong wind, very cold and Pellet feet freezing.

  Very easy climb, nothing technical - had good snow conditions.

accidents:
  Cardinal serious altitude sickness at ABC; Collet, Oddoux, Vouillamoz and Disserens left 5th & 7th Oct; frostbite Poirier in C2 but probably lose no toes


expid: CHOY97317
peakid: CHOY
year: 1997
route1: NW side
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Danilo Tic
sponsor: Project Himalaya Everest and Cho Oyu 1997
bcdate: 1997-09-19
smtdate: 1997-09-27
termdate: 1997-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7550m due to extreme cold bringing frostnip
campsites: BC(19/09),ABC(20/09,5700m),C1(21/09,6450m),C2(26/09,7100m),C3(27/09,7550m),xxx(27/09,7550m)
accidents: Opresnik and Pecovnik serious diarrhea 25th Oct and down to BC and left 2nd Oct (waited for Tic)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  High point at C3.

  Tic went up for summit bid but no higher than C3 because couldn't get enough liquid to drink during night of 27/28 Sept. When he went alone to C3 (+ to C2 day before), so feared bad effects of high alittude without enough liquids and descended. Tic again up on 9th Oct with Escoffier. Tic did not go above C2 and retreated because of wind on 12th Oct and slept in ABC that night. Third summit bid up to 6800m on 14th Oct, but back because his face and fingers becoming frostnipped.


expid: CHOY97319
peakid: CHOY
year: 1997
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Silvio Mondinelli
sponsor: Cho Oyu 1997
ascent1: 277
countries: Brazil, France, Switzerland, UK
bcdate: 1997-09-25
smtdate: 1997-10-15
smttime: 1030
termdate: 1997-10-17
campsites: BC(25/09),ABC(26/09,5700m),C1(01/10,6400m),C2(06/10,6900m),Smt(15/10)
accidents: Zuberer slight frostbite; Andorno stomach trouble & left expedition
agency: None
routememo:
  Arrived Kathmandu for climb 18 Sept and left for Tibet 20 Sept.

  Helped rescue others Italian's Claudio on 4th Oct. Summit party went to C2 on 10th for summit but down to BC because of wind on 13th. 14th afternoon to C1 again, 15th 0:50 hours 6 people from C1 for top, spent 15 mins in Escoffier's C2 (had removed our C2 on 12th); 2 stayed at C2, 1 went down at 7200m (very cold hands). Zuberer down at 8100m (lost her goggles): Paglino and Mondinelli to top - no wind but no sun so cold (-25 degree at top, C2's -14 degree at 3:00 am). 15th 2 French to 7600m and down with Paglino, Mondinelli and Zuberer. Zuberer had fallen behind other two and wandered a bit off the route, but in their descent, Paglino and Mondinelli found her and escorted her down.


expid: CHOY97308
peakid: CHOY
year: 1997
route1: NW side from N
nation: Italy
leaders: Giacomo Scaccabarozzi
sponsor: Tibet 1997 Italian Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 258,265,267
countries: France
approach: Xigatse->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1997-09-05
smtdate: 1997-09-21
smttime: 1330
termdate: 1997-10-03
campsites: BC(05/09,4800m),ABC(08/09,5650m),C1(10/09,6400m),C2(19/09,6900m),C3(20/09,7400m),Smt(21,26-27/09)
accidents: The cook suffered altitude sickness & returned to KTM
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Scaccabarozzi -> 12 noon CST, 9:45 NST walked 1 hour 30 min after hump. Was at plain to summit, reached summit and saw old oxygen bottle. He filmed with video film. Clouds overtook him, did not see Everest, Lhotse. He started from C3 ended at C3. Started at 5:30 CST.
   
  Cemmi, Perego reached summit at 18:50 CST. Started 11:00 CST started at C3 and ended at C3. Spent 15 minutes at summit. Met 10-15 people coming down. Don't know whether they reached the top. Ukrainian, US, Sherpas, Japanese (4) with 1 woman also with masks who did not reach summit. Could see Everest, Lhotse, Pumori, Nuptse. Saw oxygen bottle (reddish). They were the last climbers. Skied from C3 down 200m on 27 Sept. Again skied 200m from C2. Took 1 hour from hump to summit.

  Airoldi at 14:40 Nepali time, left C3 at 8:40 NST was with Burgoa, who stopped at hump because tired. Took 1 hr 30 minutes from hump to summit. On left was Everest. Tibet plain was clear. Saw oxygen bottle reddish colour, blue cover (no. 300 stamped on the bottle). At 8100m 3 persons. 1 was Sherpa, 2 Americans (1 man, 1 woman). He thinks they reached the summit. There was no one after him.

  Claudio Mastronicola - according to Saunders of Himalayan Kingdoms team 10 Oct, it took Claudio 9 hours to reach C3 from C2; Saunders not with him on 3-4 Oct when Claudio had to be rescued after he slipped 50-100m, unable with frostbitten fingers to help himself with fixed rope (may lose tips of his fingers). It is very doubtful Claudio went to summit; others on Cho Oyu agree.

  Magliano of other expedition led by Mondinelli, 12 Oct: Very doubtful he (Claudio) summited; people with binoculars saw no one move up from C3 or down to C3 at any time on 1 Oct and he was found to have cerebral edema as well as frostbite, He was "strong" mentally and abandoned by his expedition, all others of whom were fanatic Northern League members (in Italians politics) and he from southern Italy. 

  Asselin 21 Oct: 2 members of Asselin's expedition, Thierry and Lacroix, went up from C1 with 2 Sherpas in the night to rescue him but he refused to come down; later some members of other Italian expedition went up and persuaded him to come down, and Asselin's expedition doctor took care of him.


expid: CHOY97302
peakid: CHOY
year: 1997
route1: NW side
nation: Singapore
leaders: David Lim
sponsor: Singapore Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 268
countries: Australia, Malaysia, UK
bcdate: 1997-08-31
smtdate: 1997-09-28
smttime: 0830
termdate: 1997-10-05
campsites: BC(31/08),ABC(05/09,5500m),C1(11/09,6200m),C2(19/09,6800m),C3(27/09,7400m),Smt(28/09)
accidents: Silva, Leong and Siew frostbite, but not serious
achievment: 1st Malayasian and Singaporean ascent
agency: Chomalhari Trekking
routememo:
  Split into 2 summit teams for simplicity of logistics (put only 3 tents at C3). 

  1st summit team started at 4:00 am having waited an hour for winds to drop but didn't drop on 28th and took 4-1/2 hours to top (8:30 to 9:00 am on top). 

  2nd summit team moving up to C3 on 28th (1st team down to C2 for night) for summit bid on 29th but night of 28th very strong winds collapsed tents and on 24th went down, abandoning summit bid and climb finished.

  Summiters saw Everest and Lhotse from top.

  Lila Bahadur Tamang, 1966, lives in Sardi Khola, Karki district, this his first 8000m summit? (Xixabangma with Germans in 1995)


expid: CHOY97315
peakid: CHOY
year: 1997
route1: NW side
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Guy Cotter
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Cho Oyu Expedition 1997
ascent1: 269
countries: Australia, China, UK, USA
bcdate: 1997-09-10
smtdate: 1997-09-28
smttime: 0845
termdate: 1997-10-03
campsites: BC(10/09),ABC(13/09,5700m),C1(16/09,6400m),C2(20/09,7100m),C3(27/09,7500m),Smt(28/09)
accidents: Arnett altitude sickness
achievment: 1st Hong Kong Chinese summiter
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  Climb went exactly according to plan except one member got a headache and delayed ascent by one day. Two members left on 19th because one admitted he had bitten off more than he could chew and the other had number of minor ailments and lost motivation.

  Cotter 1st guide to guide successful 8000m teams in 3 successive seasons.

  16 Sept - C1 occupied by Cotter, Hiddleston, Collins, Arnett, Wille, 
               Kerr, Santiago and Nam
  20 Sept - C2 occupied by Cotter, Hiddleston, Kerr, Nam
  27 Sept - C3 occupied by Cotter, Hiddleston, Collins, Kerr, Nam and
              (Sherpa not named)


expid: CHOY97320
peakid: CHOY
year: 1997
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Eric Simonson
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Cho Oyu Expedition 1997
ascent1: 271
bcdate: 1997-09-01
smtdate: 1997-09-28
campsites: BC(01/09),ABC(06/09,5600m),C1(11/09,6300m),C2(15/09,7000m),C3(27/09,7500m),Smt(28/09)
accidents: Nothing really
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  Summit day was very cold but using oxygen prevented serious frostbite (2 cases of very minor frostnip). All this expedition's climbing members and climbing Sherpas went to top (this does not count Mr. and Mrs. Bartley, who were independent team). 

  Sherpas: 
    Tenzing Phinzo (aka Ang Phintso), Phortse, 3rd Cho Oyu ascent
    Ang Pasang, Pangboche, 1st Cho Oyu ascent


expid: CHOY97303
peakid: CHOY
year: 1997
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Dave McNally
sponsor: American Cho Oyu Expedition 1997
ascent1: 259
bcdate: 1997-08-31
smtdate: 1997-09-22
termdate: 1997-09-28
campsites: BC(31/08),ABC(03/09,5500m),C1(10/09,6250m),C2(19/09,6800m),C3(21/09,7400m),Smt(22/09)
accidents: Nothing serious; slightly frostbitten nose of Nichols; Cook cerebral edema
agency: Rolwaling Trek
routememo:
  Summit-time clouds so low could scarcely see where to go. Mack and Pemba sure they had reached highest point. While others 2 members wandered around a bit and fled in concern about their safety. Ellerby is certain he and Pemba reached true summit; saw pole a little below them. Other 2, Ellerby told them, were just a few minutes behind him and Pemba; they consider that they reached the summit (the Koreans on 22nd also did not climb as high as Ellerby and were in fact somewhat behind Nichols and McNally) "in this hurricane."

  Sherpa: Ang Pemba Sherpa, 27 years, this his first 8000er
      [from Kereng, born 1968 says trekking agent]


expid: CHOY97306
peakid: CHOY
year: 1997
route1: NW side from N
nation: Japan
leaders: Michihiro Kadoya
sponsor: Senshu Alpine Club Cho Oyu Expedition 1997
ascent1: 261
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1997-09-01
smtdate: 1997-09-26
campsites: BC(01/09,4800m),ABC(05/09,5700m),C1(07/09,6400m),C2(15/09,7100m),C3(19/09,7500m),Smt(26/09)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Saw Everest, Lhotse, Makalu from top. Took 50 minutes from "the hump." Left a yellow oxygen bottle on the top with silver lid. Did not see anything on top.

  5 or 6 Italians were going up when they came down spent 30 minutes in the summit.

  Kadoya & Dawa slept at C2 on 25th. Started at 2:30 am CST from C2. Tsubosa and Maeda, Man Bahadur slept at C3 on 25th. Started at 3:30 am CST from C3. All returned to C2.

  Were the first to reach the summit on the 26th.


expid: CHOY97307
peakid: CHOY
year: 1997
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Stanley Bartley
sponsor: On Simonson permit
bcdate: 1997-09-01
smtdate: 1997-09-22
termdate: 1997-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to exhaustion and lack of strength
campsites: BC(01/09),ABC(06/09,5600m),xxx(22/09,7000m)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  Stanley Bartley and his wife were independent team above ABC from Simonson's expedition whose permit they were on and who provided transport from KTM and back, BC and ABC facilities. Mrs Bartley climbed to about halfway between C1 and C2 but had little strength and motivation. Stanley carried gear to C2 but never slept there; he too was not very strong and aggressive.


expid: CHOY97304
peakid: CHOY
year: 1997
route1: NW side from N
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Jeong-Ok
sponsor: 1997 Korea Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 257
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 1997-08-31
smtdate: 1997-09-21
smttime: 1230
termdate: 1997-09-25
campsites: BC(31/08),ABC(03/09,5800m),C1(07/09,6400m),C2(12/09,7000m),C3(19/09,7400m),Smt(21/09)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  Because of strong wind and deep snow, the others did not attempt summit. An Italian climbed after them. Other teams used their fixed rope.

  BC - All
  ABC - All Sept
  On 19 5 members slept at C2
  Started for on the summit at 4:30 am (Nepal time)
  Reached top at 12:30 pm 
  On way back from summit Sherpas came to C2-C3 on Sept 21


expid: AMAD97306
peakid: AMAD
year: 1997
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Philippe Grenier
sponsor: Terres d'Adventure French Expedition to Ama Dablam
ascent1: 218
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 1997-10-07
smtdate: 1997-10-19
smttime: 1000
termdate: 1997-10-22
othersmts: Island Peak attempted after Ama Dablam but snowfall prevented success.
campsites: BC(07/10,4600m),C1(11/10,5750m),C2(12/10,6000m),C3(18/10,6300m),Smt(19/10)
agency: Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
routememo:
  Reached C2 12 Oct and down - never slept there because no space with so many teams. Up again from camp at 5500m (again no space at a normal camp site) at 6:30 am and reached C3 at 4:30 pm. 19th on summit; left C3 at 7:00 am, on top at 10:00 am and down to BC at 9:00 pm. On summit 1-2 hours before Pratt team.


expid: AMAD97309
peakid: AMAD
year: 1997
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Hermann Tauber
sponsor: International Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 224,227
countries: Austria, Germany
bcdate: 1997-10-13
smtdate: 1997-10-28
termdate: 1997-10-31
campsites: BC(13/10,4650m),C1(16/10,5700m),C2.Depositonly(5900m),C3(27/10,6280m),Smt(28,30/10)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  After 20th Oct climbing obstructed by snowfall. On 23rd and 24th and climbing resumed for summit bids. On 27th started only at 10:00 am after earlier morning strong winds. On 30th also late (10 am) start because of light snowfall and 2 of this day's summit party, Dr. Gruber and Wiedemann, turned back 150m below top because of cold wind (Dr's fingers and toes starting to freeze).

  Sherpas:
    Nima Tamang, summited Manaslu in Sept '97 with Swiss expedition, 35 years old, 
      from Kerung VDC, Solu
    Santa Bahadur Gurung, 35, from Sunwara VDC, Gorkha


expid: AMAD97307
peakid: AMAD
year: 1997
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Portugal
leaders: Joao Garcia
sponsor: Portuguese Ama Dablam Expedition (on Polish permit)
ascent1: 217
bcdate: 1997-10-10
smtdate: 1997-10-18
termdate: 1997-10-21
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (both members 26 Sept)
campsites: BC(10/10,4500m),C1(12/10,5700m),C2.Depositonly,C3(17/10,6400m),Smt(18/10)
achievment: 1st Portuguese summiters
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  2 Portuguese were on same permit as Polish Pawlowski team, climbed with them and needed their food and dining tent at BC but had own tent and food above BC while climbing together.


expid: AMAD97304
peakid: AMAD
year: 1997
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Alexei Choustrov
sponsor: St. Petersburg Top Sport Travel Team to Ama Dablam
ascent1: 213
bcdate: 1997-10-05
smtdate: 1997-10-15
termdate: 1997-10-18
campsites: BC(05/10,4500m),C1(08/10,5600m),C2(12/10,5850m),C3(13/10,6150m),C4(14/10,6325m),Smt(15/10)
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C3 in little in snowcave 20m above normal site
  C4 at snow cave here also.

  15th Oct only summit bid - no time for another.

  4 members left expedition early and went to Kalapattar.


expid: AMAD97303
peakid: AMAD
year: 1997
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Ralf Dujmovits
sponsor: Amical Alpin Ama Dablam Expedition 1997
ascent1: 211,214
countries: Japan
bcdate: 1997-10-04
smtdate: 1997-10-15
termdate: 1997-10-21
campsites: BC(04/10,4600m),C1(07/10,5800m),C2(12/10,6000m),C3(14/10,6350m),Smt(15-16/10)
accidents: Schmitt frostbitten fingers (will be Ok); Oberwieser fell at 5650m and tore a ligament in ankle
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 4600m only because now no water at 5950m site. Dujmovits camped there 2 years ago when there was water there.


expid: AMAD97305
peakid: AMAD
year: 1997
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Jonathan Pratt
sponsor: United Ama Damlam Expedition
ascent1: 212,215,219,220
countries: USA
bcdate: 1997-10-06
smtdate: 1997-10-15
smttime: 0900
termdate: 1997-10-23
accidents: Chang frostbitten toes
agency: Everest Parivar
campsites:
  BC(06/10,4600m),ABC(08/10,5100m),Deposit(09/10,5400m),C1(14/10,5900m),C2(17/10,6100m),C3(16/10,6400m),C4(18/10,6450m),Smt(15,17,19-20/10)

routememo:
  BC at normal
  C4 at ice cave under the dablam.

  So many teams on mountain at same time that this expedition had tents scattered up and down route and various members slept at various altitudes but not at all tented spots; and Treadwell went ahead of others members and slept in a German tent at C2. Some members skipped some tents/camps and members arrived at different times so they acclimatized at different times; but really were a single expedition.


expid: AMAD97302
peakid: AMAD
year: 1997
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Tsuyoshi Seki
sponsor: Fukuoka Ama Dablam Expedition 1997
ascent1: 210
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->BC
bcdate: 1997-09-22
smtdate: 1997-10-15
smttime: 0900
termdate: 1997-10-18
campsites: BC(22/09,4600m),C1(28/09,5775m),C2(04/10,6000m),C3(13/10,6300m),Smt(15/10)
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  Left C3 at 5:30 for summit. Slept at C3 on 13 Oct.

  German expedition (2 Sherpas), Russian, USA reached summit same day.


expid: AMAD97312
peakid: AMAD
year: 1997
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Peter Habeler
sponsor: Tirolean Ama Dablam Expedition 1997
countries: Germany
bcdate: 1997-10-23
smtdate: 1997-10-28
termdate: 1997-11-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to lack of time
campsites: BC(23/10,4600m),C1(25/10,5800m),C2(28/10,6200m),xxx(28/10,6200m)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Khumbu Himalayan Trekking
routememo:
  28th Habeler and Koidl up to C2 site but weather bad (snowing) and down to BC. 29th by now 

  2 left expedition with flu,etc, but returned. 

  Need more time for Ama Dablam.


expid: AMAD97308
peakid: AMAD
year: 1997
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Ryszard Pawlowski
sponsor: Patagonia Mountain Agency (PMA) Ama Dablam Expedition 1997
ascent1: 216
countries: UK
bcdate: 1997-10-11
smtdate: 1997-10-18
termdate: 1997-10-21
othersmts: Attempted Pumori (PUMO-973-06) (by Pawlowski)
campsites: BC(11/10,4500m),C1(12/10,5700m),C2(17/10,6300m),Smt(18/10)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  2 Portuguese who were on same permit climbed with this team and need this team's food and dining tent at BC, but had own tent and food above BC while climbing together.


expid: AMAD97311
peakid: AMAD
year: 1997
route1: SW Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: David Hiddleston
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 226
countries: Australia, China
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1997-10-19
smtdate: 1997-10-30
smttime: 1350
termdate: 1997-11-02
campsites: BC(19/10,4300m),C1(21/10,5800m),C2(29/10,6200m),Smt(30/10)
accidents: Harvey had pneumonia
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  Left C3 on 30 Oct at 10:45 am. -30 degrees on the summit and slept at C3 on 30th. 

  6 Austrians and 3-4 Americans reached the summit that day. The Americans/UK reached first, then Hiddleston and friend, then the Austrian/Germans.

  Hiddleston and Leung were part of an International expedition (Adventure Consultants) which summitted Cho-Oyu on 28 Sept.

  Lots of snow BC, 1-1/2 feet; C1 3 feet. Every second day there was a new snow.


expid: AMAD97301
peakid: AMAD
year: 1997
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Boris Sedousov
sponsor: Russian Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 209
countries: Georgia
approach: Pendi->Namche->Deboche BC
bcdate: 1997-09-21
smtdate: 1997-10-07
smttime: 1440
termdate: 1997-10-09
campsites: BC(21/09,4500m),C1(25/09,5500m),C2(28/09,5800m),C3(06/10,6200m),Smt(07/10)
accidents: Kouznetsov and Plotnikov not above BC because unwell
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Slept at C3 on 6 Oct. Left camp at 6 am and at 2:40 pm within 10 minutes all reached the top, stayed at the top for 45 minutes. Returned to C3 at 9 pm. 8 Oct reached BC.

  Was windy on 7th morning got better later but was cloudy when they reached the top.

  2 Japanese went up to 6600m on 6 Oct and returned to BC. Was too late. They may have reached summit later.

  This was Karataev's first summit since he lost all fingers and toes from frostbite on Lhotse in 1990. Plans to go to Annapurna I next spring for paraglide descent.


expid: PUMO97302
peakid: PUMO
year: 1997
route1: SE Face/Ridge-E Col
nation: Italy
leaders: Werner Tinkhauser
sponsor: Italian Pumori Expedition 1997
countries: Germany
bcdate: 1997-10-11
smtdate: 1997-10-20
termdate: 1997-10-23
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to bad weather and lack of time
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (by 3 members 8th Oct for acclimatization)
campsites: BC(11/10,5300m),C1(17/10,6200m),C2(19/10,6500m),xxx(20/10,6600m)
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  BC near lake
  C2 at Czech's abandoned tent (100m below Col)
  High point at East Col.

  Used Czech-Slovak tent at C2 and kerosene at BC. From Col could not go up because of wind and also cloudy; 21st snowing, 22nd nice weather but route C1 to C2 very dangerous from avalanching. 20 Oct bid was "lost chance" to summit because of lack of time.


expid: PUMO97303
peakid: PUMO
year: 1997
route1: SE Ridge/Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Akihiko Abe
sponsor: J.W.A.F. Osaka City Workers Alpine Club Pumori Expedition 1997
bcdate: 1997-10-15
smtdate: 1997-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to snowfall
campsites: BC(15/10,5400m),C1(20/10,6100m),xxx(20/10,6100m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at near lake
  C1 at Czech's tent abandoned 100m below Col.

  No higher than C1 because snowfall.


expid: PUMO97306
peakid: PUMO
year: 1997
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Jacek Maselko
sponsor: Patagonia Mountain Agency (PMA) Pumori Expedition 1997
countries: USA
bcdate: 1997-10-29
smtdate: 1997-11-05
termdate: 1997-11-06
termnote: Abandoned at 5850m due to dangerous snow conditions
othersmts: Climbed Ama Dablam (AMAD-973-08) (by Pawlowski)
campsites: BC(29/10,5300m),C1(03/11,5800m),xxx(05/11,5850m)
accidents: Avalanche hit 2 Poles but not seriously hurt
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  High point in SE Face couloir.

  Poles sent 2 clients to clients to C1 on 3rd Nov which Poles had pitched before while they went with Marjan of Slovenian Nuptse team to help frostbitten Humar down to glacier to BC. Clients down to BC 4th Nov. 5th Nov 2 Poles to C1 with intention of pitching C2; checked fixed rope above C1 but 50m above same while crossing small couloir it avalanched under them (unconsolidated snow) and took Pawlowski 350m down and over 2 rock steps and landed in snow cone at bottom of couloir; he bruised but not seriously injured. Maselko managed to stop amongst rocks above first rock steop and not bruised; went up to C1 and brought new crampon and ice axe to Pawlowski and both descended to BC. Clients said they wanted to leave "so that was the end of that expedition."


expid: PUMO97301
peakid: PUMO
year: 1997
route1: SE Face/Ridge-E Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Michal Brunner
sponsor: Czech Pumori Expedition 1997
countries: Slovakia
bcdate: 1997-09-30
smtdate: 1997-10-09
termdate: 1997-10-12
termnote: Abandoned at 6650m due to fall by 4 members that killed 3 of them
campsites: BC(30/09,5200m),C1(5850m),C2(6450m),C2B(6500m),xxx(09/10,6650m)
accidents: 4 members fell: 3 died; Kijonka injured (cerebral hemorrhage, frostbitten face) and leg injuries
agency: Himal Venture Treks
routememo:
  BC near lake
  C1 on SE Face
  C2 below Col of East Ridge
  High point on East Ridge.

  After on BC, 3 members sick including Brunner to Pheriche because of bronchial problems and stayed 4 days and back to BC. Saw rest of expedition were already climbing. Message said they would go to C1 and return to BC (written message left - no walkie-talkies). Saw then at C1 and next day, 8 Oct saw them going above C2. On 9 Oct 7:00 am saw them at Col and then did not see; someone came running from Everest BC to say saw 4 people falling down north side of East Ridge but Brunner didn't believe and waited to see them return. Saw on man descending 3:30 pm falling to left and right. Slovenians from C1 went up to rescue (Slovenians had walkie-talkies) and found him at 17:30 at 6050m in very weak condition and near death, Slovenian doctor said and Dr. gave injection. Next morning on walkie-talkie Kijonka said they had fallen down North Face. Brunner had fever and couldn't go up and Slovenians brought him down on 11th (other 2 Czechs not really well and not strong climbers). Brunner came with him to KTM, put him on plane to Europe and back to Khumbu and met other 2 Czechs at Thyangboche. "I don't know why they kept climbing" - "I will never come back to snow peaks. I like sandstones."

  7 Nov 97 - Tomaz Humar (Slovenian Pumori-Nuptse leader): bodies of Dzurman and Miscak found by Pumori summiters from Slovenia on 15 Oct smashed lying just below East Col on north side. Lenco's body went far down north side and not seen. These members and member that Slovenes reached, Kijonka, were inexperienced climbers who should not have been where they were without guide - leader was very strange.


expid: PUMO97304
peakid: PUMO
year: 1997
route1: SE Face/Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Richard Horsburgh
sponsor: British Pumori Expedition 1997
countries: New Zealand
bcdate: 1997-10-16
smtdate: 1997-10-22
termdate: 1997-10-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6150m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(16/10,5280m),C1(20/10,5750m),C2(22/10,6150m),xxx(22,27/10,6150m)
accidents: James pulmonary edema, recovered in Pheriche and did some trekking
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC near lake (100m from normal site)
  ABC 
  C1 on SE Spur/Ridge
  High point at C2.

  James serious pulmonary edema in C2 and had to be taken to Pheriche so everyone down from C2 and C1. 24th "huge snowfall." Tried later to go up but not above C2 on 27th more to retrieve gear than to go for summit. Had been going well when James got sick; if had not had to take care of him, probably would have reached summit.


expid: PUMO97305
peakid: PUMO
year: 1997
route1: SE Face (left of normal rte)-S Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Carlos Tirado
sponsor: Pumori 1997
bcdate: 1997-10-17
smtdate: 1997-11-01
termdate: 1997-11-10
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to snow conditions
campsites: BC(17/10,5200m),C1(25/10,5700m),xxx(01/11,6200m)
accidents: 3 members left early: one slight altitude sickness, one homesick, one skin rash
agency: Himalayan Sherpa Nepal
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 on SE Face (ice face).

  Climb went from top of big lake onto ice face to South Ridge. Stopped at 6200m because sugary snow on ridge made ascent ridge impossible; could not hold ice axe in such snow and new snow falling.


expid: LHOT97302
peakid: LHOT
year: 1997
route1: W Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Sergio Martini
sponsor: Italian Lhotse Expedition
ascent1: 42nd claimed
bcdate: 1997-09-09
smtdate: 1997-10-15
smttime: 1600
termdate: 1997-10-18
termnote: Reached to 50m below top
campsites: BC(09/09,5350m),C1(Deposit),C2(16/09,6400m),C3(26/09,7350m),C4(05/10,7750m),Smt(15/10)
accidents: Slight frostbite both summiters
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 at 100m above normal site on West Face.

  Slept many nights in C4 "because every day wind and very cold." Also waited often in C3 for winds to drop. 13th Oct summit bid from BC to C2. 14th C2 to C4. 15th left C4 7:00 am (earlier too much wind), help sick Japanese fix rope till 9:00 am and then went ahead at bottom of couloir with no fixed rope in Couloir for ascent or descent. On top at 4:00 pm: think very few meters below rock peak (how many can't say because in fog and with goggles off, very difficult to judge distance which they believe was highest peak). Had taken goggles off because wind blowing snow at their faces which was very painful. Slept in C4 since reached camp only at 7:00 pm: couloir very steep, no fixed rope in it, strong wind blowing snow in eyes and had to stop and close them against snow. 16th slept in C2, 17th in BC having to carry 30 kg loads of gear down themselves. "Many winds, many snow, no satisfaction" says Martini. De Stefani say he wishes he has strength to stop with this, his 13th 8000er but already he and Martini are thinking about their 14th: perhaps next autumn they came for De Stefani to guide Martini up north side of Everest and then Martini guide De Stefani up Kangchenjunga.

  23 Oct 97 - Park Young-Seok, Korean summiter on 18 Oct: Italians told Park they were stopped by winds 30-40m below top but their footprint in snow's crust (which wind could not erase) stopped 50m below.
   
  26 Oct 97 - Martini (by phone): "for me and my friend we think we reached very near summit. We are convinced that with bad weather and without rope we could not go higher in this condition, for us this is the summit we know we were not at the last point, but for us it is the summit."

  1 Nov 97 - Kazuyoshi Kondo, leader of Japanese Lhotse team: the white-haired Italian (Martini) they had reached near the top but not the very top; other Italians said they were on top. Their descent to C4 was done in only 2 hours which would be "difficult" to do from summit that day.

  26 April 98 - Simono Moro, Italian climber: Moro saw Martini's Lhotse slide show and Martini clearly not on summit but inside couloir and therefore unable to see ridge to left going to S Col. Highest summit is to left after finally leaving couloir, which opens and closes again several times. There is a lower peak to the right and one can get confused about which is highest point.

  25 May 98 - Fausto De Stefani: were at the top - went left from couloir - is satisfied that he reached Lhotse summit and with Kangchenjunga summit this month, has now climbed all 8000ers.


  Simone Moro - 26 April 98

  Moro saw Martini's Lhotse slide and he clearly inside couloir and unable to see ridge to left going to S Col. Definitely not to top which is to left after finally leaving couloir which open and closes again several times. There is a peak to right.


  Fausto De Stefani - 10 Apr 2001

  De Stefani syas that Martini's second ascent in 2000 confirms that they reached the summit in 1997.


  Martini - 5 Oct 2001

  Martini and De Stefani climbed to 3-5m below top in 1997. Last few meters very steep and dangerous from wind and possible misstep when unable to see. (He returned in clear weather and could then see exactly where they had climbed).


expid: NUPE97301
peakid: NUPE
year: 1997
route1: SW Ridge-E Smt I (Bonington rte)
nation: Italy
leaders: Hans Kammerlander
sponsor: Alpinschule Sudtirol Nuptse Expedition
bcdate: 1997-09-29
smtdate: 1997-10-18
termdate: 1997-10-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to deep powder snow with snow falling
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (by both members early Oct)
campsites: BC(29/09,5200m),Biv(17/10,6200m),xxx(18/10,6600m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  Unable to go above 6600m because of deep powder snow on snowfield which was not steep but too much snow. Route above is possible on rocky summit face of 400m, which is probably not difficult but no one knows. "Very nice route for alpine-style" after acclimatization but there are technical difficulties on last part of route below summit.


expid: LHOT97301
peakid: LHOT
year: 1997
route1: W Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Dong-Ho
sponsor: Korean Lhotse Expedition
ascent1: 43rd
bcdate: 1997-09-05
smtdate: 1997-10-18
smttime: 1120
termdate: 1997-10-21
campsites: BC(05/09,5350m),C1(17/09,6000m),C2(18/09,6500m),C3(25/09,7400m),C4(03/10,7800m),Smt(18/10)
accidents: Kim Yeong-Rong 32 hours nose bleed in C1, helicopter to BC; OK to return to mountain and go to C3
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on West Face
  C4 at 500m below Couloir of West Face.

  When Park arrived at BC on 4 Oct, all camps C1 to C4 already established. 

  4 Oct Han, Go, Kaji and Gyalzen tried for top, very strong wind drove them down at 8000m and all retreated to BC. 

  9 Oct climbed go to C2 but same day back to BC because of wind. 13 Oct again mounted summit bid go to C2 and waited. 

  17 Oct Park, Han and Ra and Kaji C2 to C4. 18 Oct at 4:00 am 4 men up for top but Ra turned back at 8000m (tired and toes starting to freeze) and 3 men on top at 11:20 am and down to C2 at 7:00 pm and BC next day. 

  19 Oct summit bid from C4 by Go, Kim Hun-Sang and Kami Dorje to 8100m and cold strong wind and back to C2. Climb now finished and all members in BC 20 Oct.


expid: LHOT97304
peakid: LHOT
year: 1997
route1: W Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Kazuyoshi Kondo
sponsor: Japan Snow Leopard Lhotse Expedition 1997
ascent1: 44th
bcdate: 1997-09-17
smtdate: 1997-10-21
smttime: 1550
termdate: 1997-10-25
othersmts: Lobuche East for acclimatization
campsites: BC(17/09,5350m),C1(20/09,5900m),C2(27/09,6400m),C3(03/10,7200m),C4(13/10,7700m),Smt(21/10)
accidents: Nagata bad frostbite: Nagaoka and Sakamoto frostbite but may be no loss
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  C1 at near top of Icefall (all others here also)
  C2 in West Cwm
  C3 on West Face
  C4 at below rock band.

  1st attack group tried for top on 14th Oct and reached just above 8000m, then windy and cloudy so down to C2. 15th next attack group did not go above C4 because of wind. 3rd attack group of 4 members and 2 Sherpas reached C4 on 19th. 20th fairly bad weather and 2 Sherpas down to C2 while 4 Japanese stayed another night in C4. 20th night slight avalanching with light snowfall. 21st morning better weather: Nagata went down C2 because not strong. Nagaoka and Sakamoto oxygen while Kondo fearing frostbite retreated from 7900m to C2. Nagaoka and Sakamoto went to summit taking very long time reaching top at 3:50 pm and leaving it 4:00 pm. Nagaoka failed to find C3 in dark and lost headlamps so down to C2 at there and Sakamoto saw C3 but since Nagaoko did not stop there and Sakamoto also to C2 about same time. Weather on 21st little windy and slight snowfall and cloudy. C4 had been removed by Sherpas on 21st.


expid: LHOT97303
peakid: LHOT
year: 1997
route1: W Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Ignacio (Inaki) Ochoa
sponsor: Spanish Lhotse Expedition
bcdate: 1997-09-09
smtdate: 1997-10-06
termdate: 1997-10-14
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to fierce winds
campsites: BC(09/09,5350m),C1(12/09,6050m),C2(17/09,6450m),C3(25/09,7400m),C4(06/10,7800m),xxx(06/10,7800m)
accidents: Nothing serious: slight frostbite by 2 men to C4
agency: In Wilderness
routememo:
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on West Face
  C4 on West face 200m below couloir.

  C1 had one night only and then moved up. C3 tent also moves up on 6 Oct to make C4. Big wind storm night of 5th; planned to go for top that night but had to spend night with knife in hand and crampons on boots in tent expecting to have to get out immediately as wind buffeted tent. At 4:00 am Ochoa decided to start down C1 hour before daylight) and Ochoa got wind-burnt nose while struggled against windblown snow and took 3 hours to reach Basques C3 (normally took less than 1 hour) where winds not so terrible. In C3 French Everest's Pelle warmed their fingers and gave warm liquids. Down to BC on 7th. 

  10th up again to C2 but hurricane winds and all teams had to take down all tents; those not taken down were broken. Down to BC on 12th and climb finished. Only chance to reach summit was on 25th Sept but 2 members with Ochoa in C3 not acclimatized (Ochoa came from Pakistan) and not safe for one man to try for top alone.


expid: EVER97302
peakid: EVER
year: 1997
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Jean Troillet
sponsor: Swiss Everest Expedition
bcdate: 1997-07-29
smtdate: 1997-08-30
termdate: 1997-10-01
termnote: Abandoned at 8700m due to route finding difficulty, then no more motivation now and wind started
campsites: BC(29/07,5200m),ABC(04/08,6400m),C1(29/08,7800m),xxx(30/08,8700m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  High point on North Ridge.

  "Big change on Everest - people think all you need is two fingers and nose to go up" - Troillet. All expeditions this autumn had telecommunications equipment to communicate with outside world; more talking less climbing on Everest now. 7 telephones at BC (Swiss also had one but it stopped early). Did not put camp at North Col. 1st camp above ABC was at 7800m; it was slept in on 29 Aug in 1st attempt for top and on 30th reached 8700m in dark night and went too far to left, get near Pinnacles and at 5:00 am at light, realized where they were so too far from summit to reach it before 1:00 pm and turned back (Schaffter, Roduit, Apa Sherpa and Krishna Tamang in this attempt) and returned to ABC and next day to BC to rest at low altitude.

  Another attempt 13 Sept from ABC in night and stopped at 7500m because avalanche danger (Apa, Krishna, Ang Pasang, Phur Tenzing, Schaffter and Troillet with Todaka Japanese team). 

  Last attempt by Troillet, Apa, Ang Pasang and Krishna. Apa took oxygen and used from 8300m. Ang Pasang got altitude problem and Krishna who carried oxygen for other 2 Nepolis to 7800m, turned back. Just behind Troillet were 2 Colombians and 2 Sherpas and turned back at about 8200m. Troillet and Apa reached 8700m above snow at summit pyramid and back: Apa said here at 11:00 am was too late to get top to top at 1:00 pm and Troillet soon agreed too dangerous to continue alone and both down; his intention was to snowboard down so did, from 8700m to ABC (from 11:30 am to North Col 5:00 pm down again from Col shortly and arrived ABC at 6:00 pm): left ABC in night of 26 (2:30 am) and been to ABC on 27th.


expid: EVER97304
peakid: EVER
year: 1997
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Josep Maria Maixe
sponsor: Catalan Everest Expedition
bcdate: 1997-08-28
smtdate: 1997-09-15
termdate: 1997-10-08
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to wind, cold and Sherpa problems
campsites: BC(28/08),ABC(09/09,6400m),C1(14/09,7000m),xxx(15/09,7600m)
accidents: Doctor altitude sickness
agency: In Wilderness
routememo:
  C1 at North Col.

  Intended to put C2 at 7800m but winds stopped progress above 7600m where all 8 climbing members (except Gine) reached from C1 on 15th Sept. Forecasts now said 7-10 days bad winds so all down to 22nd BC to wait. 5 days later 6 members up; they reached 28 Sept only C1 and again winds above them sent them back. Again up to C1 on 4 Oct by 3 members to open route to C2 but not above C1 again and climb finished.

  2 experienced Sherpas left said they would leave expedition 25 Sept, saying agent didn't give pay to them. They stayed on but Sherpas and members almost came to blows.


expid: EVER97306
peakid: EVER
year: 1997
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Jordi Tosas
sponsor: Gallina Blanca Everest 1997
bcdate: 1997-09-01
smtdate: 1997-09-27
termdate: 1997-10-03
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to wind and Gel unwell
campsites: BC(01/09,5200m),ABC(11/09,6450m),C1(26/09,7000m),xxx(27/09,7600m)
accidents: Gel stomach trouble from KTM food
agency: Asian Trekking/Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  High point at just to right of North Ridge.

  Tosas alone twice to C1 site 15 and 18 Sept, but not well enough acclimatized to stay there. Both members to C1 on 26th for summit attack. 27th Tosas alone to 7600m and then stopped by strong wind so down to ABC by snowboard and climb was finished because wind was bad and it was difficult to climb without his teammate, who had stomach trouble.


expid: EVER97310
peakid: EVER
year: 1997
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Juan Ramon Madariaga
sponsor: Bizkaia Medio Ambiente Everest 1997
bcdate: 1997-09-07
smtdate: 1997-10-06
termdate: 1997-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to strong winds
campsites: BC(07/09,5350m),C1(13/09,6000m),C2(20/09,6400m),C3(24/09,7400m),xxx(06/10,7900m)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  High point just below South Col.

  No members went above C3: 3 times go to C3 but 1st time Sherpa hadn't put fixed rope above camp; 2nd time very strong wind and same tents broken and some snowfall; 3rd time again same problem with wind and new snow and saw members got slight frostbite. Sherpas got to Col to leave gear and to retrieve it; actually probably did not go quite to Col. 

  Members who reached C3 (none higher):
    Bonales on 24 Sept and 26th Sept
    Orbegozo on 24 and 26th Sept and 10 Oct
    Posado on all three dates
    Rubio on 24 Sept and 10 Oct 
    Ruiz on all three dates.

  Sherpas to 7900m on Oct 6.


expid: EVER97307
peakid: EVER
year: 1997
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Terry Stubbs
sponsor: Adventure Extreme Chomolungma Expedition
bcdate: 1997-09-01
smtdate: 1997-09-16
termdate: 1997-10-08
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to snow and wind
campsites: BC(01/09),IC(09/09,5700m),ABC(10/09,6500m),C1(16/09,05/10,7000m),xxx(16/09,7000m)
accidents: Redley throat trouble, Bell cerebral edema, Mead anal abcess.
agency: Sherpa Excursions
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  High point at North Col.

  Stayed at BC 8 days to acclimatize from there and had intermediate camp above that. Then after ABC reached, snow conditions bad with fresh snowfall making it deep on the ground. Did not try to establish camp on Col but made carries of gear to camp site 12-15 Sept and down. Later some members did go to col but didn't sleep there and missed few days of good weather when were staying in BC waiting for good forecasts. On 5th 3 members did make token stay at C1 one night. All climbing members reached Col except Yvonne Holland, Mrs Sandra Stubbs and Terry Stubbs.


expid: EVER97311
peakid: EVER
year: 1997
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Yvan Estienne
sponsor: French Expedition to Mount Everest
countries: Canada
bcdate: 1997-09-07
smtdate: 1997-10-10
termdate: 1997-10-13
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to wind
campsites: BC(07/09,5350m),C1(12/09,6100m),C2(19/09,6400m),C3(25/09,7285m),xxx(10/10,7900m)
accidents: Nothing serious; slight frostbite to Pelle and Kami
agency: Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
routememo:
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  High point at South Col.

  C3 reached by Estienne, Contino, Navano, Pelle, Preaubert and Voyer on 25 Sept for acclimatization and down 26th to BC. 6 Oct Contino, Estienne, Navarro, Pelle, Voyer again to C3 and down 7th to BC by Estienne and Voyer while others stayed in C2. 10 Oct to C3 by Navarra, Contino and Estienne and on 11th by Voyer down to BC by all on 11th with Sherpas and climb finished. Both summit bids stopped by clouds and wind and 2nd time on 10th only winds, fierce winds over 100 km/hr - winds destroyed 1 tent at C2 and 2 at C3. No members went above C3.

  Sherpas reached 7900m on Oct 10.


expid: EVER97303
peakid: EVER
year: 1997
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Colombia
leaders: Cristobal Von Rothkirch
sponsor: Colombian Granahorrar Everest Expedition
bcdate: 1997-08-06
smtdate: 1997-09-26
termdate: 1997-10-03
termnote: Abandoned at 8200m due to wind and cold weather
campsites: BC(06/08,5200m),ABC(15/08,6410m),C1(22/08,7000m),C2(26/09,7800m),xxx(26/09,8200m)
accidents: Ariano hernia; Vidales violent pulmonary edema in ABC; Indra Gurung HAP, stomach trouble
achievment: 1st Colombian attempt on Everest
agency: Nepal Himal
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C2 on North Face just to west of North Ridge
  High point below North Ridge at start of steep part.

  First reached C2 site on 28 Aug but rain and snow stopped all progress on mountain. 2 members and 2 Sherpas made attempt from C2 with Troillet night of 26 Sept and reached 8200m 11:00 pm NST on 26th itself. Porters didn't want to go higher because very windy and cold and dangerous without rope at night; returned to C2 1:30 am 27th. This last time attempted to climb up because now wind started getting stronger and sponsor suggested another time to go to Everest rather than waiting for days or weeks (forecast was 2 weeks) and leader felt team would not have the energy for later attempt this autumn. Maybe will come to Everest next year perhaps from Nepalese side.


expid: EVER97312
peakid: EVER
year: 1997
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Mexico
leaders: Ana Mendez de Luca
sponsor: Summit for Peace - Everest 1997
countries: Costa Rica
bcdate: 1997-09-17
termdate: 1997-09-24
campsites: BC(17/09,5350m)
agency: Kailash Journeys Treks
routememo:
  Did no climbing because trekking agent, Santa Subba of Kailash Himalayan Treks, never paid HMG for permit. Agent "robbed us," charged thousands of dollars for unnecessary elaborate icefall route of their own, overcharged for more bottles of oxygen than produced, etc, etc. Have a Nepali lawyer to retrieve funds paid to agent and will stay in KTM as long as it takes to reach a settlement. Want to return for Everest ascent next year.

  Ministry of Tourism - 1 Oct 1997 - no permit issued because no royalty paid.

  19 Oct - team representative offered to pay $30,000 before summit guaranteed more later.

  (Mrs Mendez and another member prayed at BC on 23 Sept says German journalist who interviewed Mr and Mrs today, 5 Oct 1997 - they confirmed to her they did no climbing because no permit - have now received refund from agent).


  Inaki Ochoa, Spanish Lhotse leader - 19 Oct 1997 

  Mexican team belonged to some Christian sect which is very well financed by titles from its membership. They explained that their good was to take the devil away from the summit of Everest that God could come to Nepal and people of Nepal, Hindus and Buddhists, could be evangelized, They wrote with an ice axe on seracs near BC "Jesus lives," and made and altar in ice beside BC and prayed there every day. It took them six hours to travel from Gorak Shep to BC (trip of an hour or less normally) because they fell on their knees frequently to pray. On this way to BC, there is a big hole and they said this was the gateway to hell and they prayed to God to close it. They tried to pay less than the the $70,000 fee; said they had excellent Mexican connections with important people in Nepal. When that didn't produce a permit, they said they had realized at BC that BC was as good as the summit for their purpose.

  24 Oct 1997 - trekking agent, Santa Subba of Kailash Himalayan Treks - Mexican leader made connected effort to get entire royalty waived: saw Secretary of Tourism Ministry and Minister of Tourism and argued that fee should not be charged because team would pray for peace in world and peace for Nepal people; if these prayers not conducted atop Everest, disasters would strike Nepal. Officials did not agree to waive fee. Then she offered a blank cheque which she signed, saying no money in account. This expedition paid no bills in KTM: no hotel bills, agent's fees and expenses.

  17 Nov 1997 - Subba said Mendez paid about half of his bills.


expid: EVER97308
peakid: EVER
year: 1997
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: George Tumpach
sponsor: Canadian International Expedition
bcdate: 1997-09-01
smtdate: 1997-10-04
termdate: 1997-10-08
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to winds
campsites: BC(01/09),ABC(08/09,6400m),C1(03/10,7000m),xxx(04/10,7800m)
agency: Sherpa Excursions
routememo:
  Did not go above ABC till 3 Oct because wind and snow and why waste energy going there if would be unable to go higher than C1. Turned down from C1 site on 4 Oct because of winds.


expid: EVER97305
peakid: EVER
year: 1997
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Craig Calonica
sponsor: Everest North Face Ski Expedition
countries: Germany
bcdate: 1997-08-30
smtdate: 1997-09-12
termdate: 1997-10-10
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to retinal trouble of leader
campsites: BC(30/08,5200m),ABC(08-09/09,6400m),xxx(12/09,7000m)
accidents: Calonica altitude sickness, retinal hemorrhage on eye; Kami throat problem
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  High point at North Col.

  Made cache at North Col: Bridwell, Lhakpa and Dawa and Kami on 12-13 Sept and Sherpas again twice, last time on 16-17 Sept. During this time Calonica down to a village because of altitude sickness. Calonica returned to ABC after 8 days but never recovered strength, went down to ABC with Bridwell on 29th from ABC. Colombians reported to Bridwell in KTM that Colonica had developed serious altitude sickness and should return to KTM in next few days.

  Calonica skied around bottom of mountain but never up to Col. He said his one eye still is giving blurred images, perhaps due to damage from violent coughing. He remained at BC days after Bridwell had left because he kept hoping his eye would became normal and he could climb, but after he talked by satellites telephone with doctors in KTM, he was convinced of the danger of going higher.


expid: EVER97309
peakid: EVER
year: 1997
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Teuk-Hee
sponsor: Kyunbuk Alpine Association Qomolongma Expedition 1997
bcdate: 1997-09-01
smtdate: 1997-09-08
termdate: 1997-09-14
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to fatal accident
campsites: BC(01/09,5200m),ABC(03/09,6400m),xxx(08/09,7000m)
accidents: Nothing except fatal avalanche which killed Choi
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  1 Sherpa and 2 members reached North Col while 6 more members following them in single file did not because of accident. Last 2 members in party were hit by avalanche: Han fell 20m down outside and not hurt but Choi at end of party disappeared and body not found during 5 days search. Party was to go to Col to deposit gear but not to make camp there yet. Ha and Keepa to North Col 13 Sept to retrieve gear to look for Choi.

  Team left some gear at Rongbuk Monastery to use in another attempt to find Choi's body and to climb mountain.


expid: EVER97301
peakid: EVER
year: 1997
route1: N Face (Japanese Coulior) (to 6400m)
route2: N Col-NE Ridge (to 8000m)
nation: Japan
leaders: Masafumi Todaka
sponsor: Feel Our Soul Chomolungma Expedition
bcdate: 1997-07-24
smtdate: 1997-09-27
termdate: 1997-10-04
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to cold and wind
othersmts: Changzheng before and summit 13-14 Aug
agency: Cosmo Treks
campsites:
  BC(24/07,5150m),ABC(28/07,5600m),C1(22/08,6200m),ABC2(12/09,6400m),Biv(27/09,7800m),xxx(27/09,8000m)

routememo:
  BC  at normal site
  ABC little above East Rongbuk Glacier
  C1  at bottom of North Face for Japanese couloir attempt
  Second ABC at normal site for normal route attempts
  Biv near North Ridge
  High point near North Ridge.

  M Todaka first acclimatized on Changzheng to its 6950m for peak, which reached on 13 and 14, returned to ABC. Made C1 at bottom of Face for Couloir attacks but new snow came every night from Lho La and after one attempt up North Face, reaching only 6400m on 25 Aug, decided on 5 Sept to go to normal route. 

  12 Sept went to normal route ABC 6400m and in night tried to go to summit via North Col. 3:40 am 13th started up alone and got to 7600m where in afternoon avalanche passed 2 meters from him and back to normal ABC, 14th to North Face ABC. Then to Lhasa to rest (17-23 Sept in Lhasa). Cook took to BC his North Face ABC while he was in Lhasa. 26 Sept afternoon to normal route ABC again. 27th 3:40 am started up again and reached 7800m at noon, rested (no sleep - had no sleeping bag), now windy, 8:30 pm started for top; 10:00 pm at 8000m, stopped by very strong winds and retreated to 7800m where put up his small tent. 28th 8:00 am to BC. Waited till 2 Oct but cold and windy so now climb finished.


expid: BARU97304
peakid: BARU
year: 1997
route1: SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Denis Etienne, Marc Lubin
sponsor: Terres d'Adventure Baruntse Expedition 1997
ascent1: 45th
countries: Italy
bcdate: 1997-10-12
smtdate: 1997-10-22
termdate: 1997-10-26
campsites: BC(12/10,5400m),C1(16/10,6150m),C2(17/10,6500m),Smt(22/10)
agency: Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
routememo:
  BC near lake southwest of West Col
  C1 at West Col
  C2 at bottom of SE Ridge (normal site).

  Had only day for summit: 21 Oct slight storm in evening on 22nd windy till about 7:30 am and than started (on 18th Etienne and Sherpa ahd fixed rope already above C2 so summit possible) and on 23rd afternoon began to snow till afternoon of 24th (total 30-40 cm) with wind.


expid: BARU97301
peakid: BARU
year: 1997
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Norbert Joos
sponsor: Swiss Baruntse Expedition 1997
bcdate: 1997-09-27
smtdate: 1997-10-04
termdate: 1997-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to dangerous snow
campsites: BC(27/09,5450m),C1(30/09,6100m),C2(03/10,6500m),xxx(04,09/10,6700m)
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC west of West Col
  C1 at West Col
  C2 at start of SE Ridge
  High point on SE Ridge.

  4 Oct to 6700m, small avalanche and down to BC. 8 Oct to C2 and to 6700m to see any change of conditions but none. Learned other teams not making good progress, so only to C2 for 3rd time to clear it.


expid: BARU97302
peakid: BARU
year: 1997
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Christoph Hoerster
sponsor: German Baruntse Expedition
ascent1: 44th
bcdate: 1997-10-01
smtdate: 1997-10-15
termdate: 1997-10-20
campsites: BC(01/10,5200m),Biv(5600m),C1(06/10,6000m),C2(07/10,6600m),Smt(15/10)
accidents: Schreck pneumonia and evacuated; Bracker also pneumonia
agency: Himalayan Sherpa Adventure
routememo:
  BC south of Barun Glacier, east of point 6095m on Schneider Khumbu map
  C1 west of Sherpani Col and east of West Col
  C2 on SE Ridge.

  1st summit attempt on 8 Oct from C2 Descher, Hoerster and Helbig, but not able to go above camp because mild altitude sickness, so down to BC in 2 days. 

  2nd attempt by Bock, Bracker and Descher from C2 on 15th to top via last ridge where they had large snow bars that enabled them to succeed in deep powder snow where Dutch without snowbars could not.


expid: BARU97303
peakid: BARU
year: 1997
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Robert Kolber, Hendrik Wesselius
sponsor: Dutch Baruntse Expedition 1997
bcdate: 1997-10-01
smtdate: 1997-10-11
termdate: 1997-10-16
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to bad snow conditions and inability to find attractive line of attack
campsites: BC(01/10,5400m),C1(05/10,6100m),C2(10/10,6400m),xxx(11/10,7000m)
accidents: Kolber pneumonia and Smit altitude sickness; sirdar also pneumonia
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  BC south of Swiss BC and south of smaller lake WSW of West Col
  C1 at West Col
  C2 east of SE Ridge
  High point at bottom of small ridge.

  Planned C2 at 6700m but Swiss camped at 6400m so Dutch Sherpas said their camp at 6400m also. 11th Oct first summit attempt by 3 members and 3 Sherpas; at 6500m (after 1 hour) Timmer not well and turned back. 2 other members [Wesselius and Vreugdenhil] and 2 Sherpas on up to 7000m to small ridge where snow very soft powder very difficult to go further and back to C2. 

  12th Oct 2 Sherpas went up to find another way to pass difficult part but couldn't find one and did not go above same 7000m place. On 11th hadn't had enough snow bars, rope, etc with them to make ascent, so attempt to reach main summit stopped. 

  14th 3 members and 2 Sherpas from C2 started for "Little Baruntse" 6730m, south-southeast of main peak and De Boer succeeded with Karma and Tshering; took 8 hours from C2 to this peak (6:00 am to 2:00 pm and down to BC).

  On 15th Oct watch 3 people (Russians?) go up this teams's route, traverse at 7000m and go to summit and in swift and expert ascent.


expid: BARU97305
peakid: BARU
year: 1997
route1: SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Roger Hassol
sponsor: New England Khumbu Region Expedition 1997 to Baruntse
ascent1: 46th
countries: UK
bcdate: 1997-10-17
smtdate: 1997-11-05
smttime: 1454
termdate: 1997-11-09
campsites: BC(17/10,5400m),C1(03/11,6200m),C2(04/11,6400m),Smt(05/11)
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC southwest of West Col, west of smaller lake
  Ci just east of West Col
  C2 on small plateau east of SE Ridge.

  C1 delayed by snowfall avalanching, new snowfall, avalanching and snowfall and avalanching. 5 Nov Andrews, Cote and Hassol set out for top from C2 at 7:30 am; Andrews turned around not long after (1-2 hrs) after leaving camp while other two went onto top at 2:54 pm and back to C2 at about 5:00 pm and all 3 slept in C2 that night. Left BC by helicopter because porters could not safely reach BC in deep snow.


expid: MAKA97301
peakid: MAKA
year: 1997
route1: Makalu La-NW side
nation: USA
leaders: David Custer
sponsor: Southern California Makalu Expedition
countries: UK
bcdate: 1997-09-03
smtdate: 1997-10-07
termdate: 1997-10-13
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to wind, bad visibility, deep snow and fatigue
campsites: LowBC(03/09,5000m),BC(10/09,5500m),C1(15/09,6100m),C2(20/09,6700m),C3(05/10,7400m),xxx(07/10,7800m)
agency: Arniko Travel
routememo:
  Low BC at Barun Pokhara
  BC at normal site just above glacier's junction
  C1 at rock island in Chago Glacier
  C2 below rock band at start of steep section
  C3 at Makalu La
  High point at near NW Ridge.

  Wind never quit above C2 from late Sept and cold. -15 degrees at BC from 1st Oct, but never got much new snow. Gary Corliss and Brian Johnson separately attempted summit from C3 on 6th and 7th but did not get to 8000m: Gary Corliss to 7700m and Brian Johnson to 7800m alone, but stopped by wind, bad visibility, deep snow and fatigue.

  Plaxco got to C1 but not very strong climber, got homesick and left expedition about 1 Oct.

  Berrys, Bremeld and Custer are trekking back from BC via Sherpani Col while other 4 members come to KTM by helicopter. All 3 to low BC on 14th together and 3 "trekkers" left on 15th to walk out while others 4 waited for helicotper. Went even way via East Col, West Col and Amphu Laptsa in 4 days low BC to Chhukung. We were only team not to have to helicopter anyone ill out. 


expid: MAKA97303
peakid: MAKA
year: 1997
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Denmark
leaders: Per Bager
sponsor: Danish Makalu Expedition 1997
bcdate: 1997-09-22
smtdate: 1997-10-10
termdate: 1997-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to winds and bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(22/09,5300m),C1(25/09,6100m),C2(04/10,6700m),C3(10/10,7400m),xxx(10/10,7400m)
accidents: Sherpa appendicitis; another Sherpa lymphatic infection
agency: Last Frontiers Trekking
routememo:
  BC at junction of Chago and Barun Glacier
  C1 at south end of rock island
  C2 at bottom of steepness
  C3 at Makalu La
  High point at C3.

  C3 occupied by Jorgensen and Nima Rita but they went no higher because of strong wind and deep crust covered snow above. They went there again later to make summit bid if that not possible to remove gear, which they did.

  Lyhne died of cerebral hemorrhage or heart failure of some sort. Got to C1 an hour before his tentmate on 12th, eating well that day, no indication of illness. With his death "on spirit was changed." Died at 4:30 am on 13th in the tent; body brought to Kathmandu by helicopter on 15th (without any member escorting it), stored in German Embassy's freezer till it could be sent to Denmark, where it now is.


expid: MAK297301
peakid: MAK2
year: 1997
route1: S Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Susan Fear
sponsor: Australian Makalu II Expedition 1997
ascent1: 24th
bcdate: 1997-09-18
smtdate: 1997-10-10
termdate: 1997-10-15
campsites: BC(18/09,5600m),C1(21/09,6100m),C2(23/09,6800m),C3(09/10,7400m),Smt(10/10)
accidents: Maraz, Fear and Gregory slight frostbite
achievment: 1st Australian attempt
agency: In Wilderness
routememo:
  1st summit attempt on 3 Oct from C2 by Fear, Gregory and Nima Dorje Tamang; went to 40 minutes and Fear turned back with stomach trouble; others another 40 meters more to 6900m+. Down to BC and Fear recovered. Meanwhile Maraz also had recovered from his own illness below BC.

  From C2 to top (where in ankle-deep snow and weather very cold). From Makalu La went on to glacier on right side of ridge (100m from ridge) and joined South Ridge 80 vertical meters from summit.


expid: MAK297302
peakid: MAK2
year: 1997
route1: S Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Roman Koch
sponsor: Banik 1 Maj Karvina Makalu II Expedition 1997
countries: Slovakia
approach: Tumlingtar->Khandbari->Seduwa
bcdate: 1997-09-21
smtdate: 1997-10-04
termdate: 1997-10-10
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to exhaustion and getting late in the day
campsites: BC(21/09,5600m),C1(25/09,6300m),C2(30/09,6900m),xxx(04/10,7200m)
accidents: Kovocicin had pneumonia
agency: Everest Adventure
routememo:
  Wasn't difficult up to C2; from C2 used fixed rope, not very difficult. It was rather windy but sky was clear most of the time. Did not reach Makalu La = 100m below Makalu La. (None had climbed Makalu II, I). The illness took time/trouble. Not enough time for acclimatization.
   
  3 Oct slept C2. They started at 6 am, reached high point at 3 pm. Tried to reach summit. Should have put C3 at Makalu La. Planning shortcoming.


expid: MAKA97302
peakid: MAKA
year: 1997
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge (slight variation)
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Christophe Berclaz
sponsor: Swiss Makalu Expedition 1997
bcdate: 1997-09-13
smtdate: 1997-10-10
termdate: 1997-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to wind
campsites: BC(13/09,5400m),C1(22/09,6400m),C2(24/09,7000m),C3(28/09,7400m),xxx(10/10,8000m)
accidents: Melly serious spinal back problem and left team 25 Sept by helicopter
agency: Sherpa & Swiss Adventures
routememo:
  BC on west side of Chago Glacier moraine
  C1 at bottom of steep section
  C2 at top of gully southeast of Makalu La
  C3 at Makalu La
  High point at just before rock pinnacle.

  Pitched C1 on 17th then down to BC. After C3 slept in down again. Georges: "slept 5 times at Makalu La and five times windy." Roux forced back 8000m on 10th Oct because of wind.


expid: JANU97301
peakid: JANU
year: 1997
route1: N Face (to 6000m)
route2: SE Ridge (to 6000m)
nation: USA
leaders: Damian Benegas
sponsor: 1997 Jannu North Face Expedition
countries: Argentina, Australia
approach: Ghunsa Khola->Khambachen and in Kumbhakarna Glacier
bcdate: 1997-09-20
smtdate: 1997-10-12
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due route difficulty and route disagreements
campsites: BC(20/09,4550m),ABC(Oct,5100m),Oct(5480m),xxx(12/10,6000m)
accidents: Nothing serious; members left because of disagreements
agency: Nomad Expeditions
routememo:
  BC at Kumbhakarna Glacier
  High point at north wall face.

  Early Oct slept one night in boulder camp, which was essentially a depot. Then still in early Oct, used C1 to sleep in instead. Got only 400m vertically up wall and then down because disagreement on how to climb face. Also could see wind blowing 100 mph daily on summit, so no point in attempting to reach it. 2 Benegas brothers went to 5700m in first effort on wall; were fixing rope to this point and down to C1. In C1 found all others in disagreement with them and brothers gave up climb and down to BC. Ogden & Sustad went up and fixed some more line to 6000m and then down. Really bad snow on wall and difficult to fix rope. Sustad and Ogden felt impossible to climb wall/face with only 2 climbers. Grajales and Wong went around to SE Ridge to see possible descent route and got to 6000m 12-13th Oct and then down. Then told members had abandoned north attempt; had gone up to 6000m from there C2 at about 5900m just below SE Ridge itself with Ang Babu Tshering Sherpa.


  Wong - 27 Oct 97

  Wong and Grajales intended to go to summit via SE Ridge with Babu Tshering and were unpleasantly surprised to be instructed by walkie-talkie by Benegas to abandon climb. Only then learned team had no permit for SE Ridge and he told them to quit as they were there illegally. 


  Spitzer - 27 Oct 97

  Expedition was disaster because leader self-centered and unable to organize things properly.


expid: EVER71101
peakid: EVER
year: 1971
route1: W Cwm-W Ridge (to 7300m)
route2: S Col (to 6900m)
route3: SW Face (to 8380m)
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Norman Dyhrenfurth, J. O. M. Roberts
sponsor: International Himalayan Expedition
countries: Australia, Austria, France, India, Italy, Japan, Norway, Poland, UK, USA, W Germany
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 1971-03-22
smtdate: 1971-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 8380m due to bad weather and illness
accidents: 1 member died of exhaustion, exposure and frostbite
campsites:
  BC(22/03,5425m),C1(03/04,6250m),C2(05/04,6600m),SwF.C3(09/04,7000m),SwF.C4(01/05,7450m),SwF.C5(08/05,8000m),SwF.C6(17/05,8290m),xxx(20/05,8380m)

routememo:
  Roberts - 29 May 71

  Some paper said it's a sad story, we don't think it's a a sad story; it was an attempt on the most difficult face in the world so I think it's a good story on the whole. Very bad weather indeed. This the basic cause of failure: once the weather goes bad, it affects everything else. Bahuguna's death of course very sad but did not affect outcome. Sickness meant only 4 climbers in end; 13 in start, 3 left us (Heibeler was sick), so 10 left intentionally so not so bad.

  Don't agree was lack of planning. When get bad weather and bad conditions things can temporarily get out of control. Indeed had all Sherpas on face route and still they were shouting for more Sherpas. Had lost 2-3 weeks with blizzard and Bahuguna's death; if had stayed with 2nd route would have had even poorer results.

  "Very bitterly disappointed by the failure." 3 years work. Apart from Bahuguna's death nothing to regret.

  Schloemmer contributed nothing to expedition, did very very little for expedition.

  Axt was asked to come up to top camp and help us out and he in C2 said he was thinking it over and in fact after thinking it over, went down to base; he never did go on face. 

  Schloemmer never carried loads on face, not even personal gear.

  People like Maz and Mauri after storm said face not possible, We got higher then any one else. We placed C6 at 27,000 ft and were very close to success. We were making progress every day and felt must use every day to the full. Day before abandonment traversed over to South Buttress and could have gone to summit that way, but would not on the face and that's not what we came to do. Could have done it in one day. 23 people climbed Everest by that route; face not impossible to climb but not possible in our extended state; would have needed another camp.

  2 Japanese were not united; climbed with Sherpas making 2 teams. Ito to give up the climb at one stage (when established C4, about 2 weeks before end) and didn't come up from C2 onto the face for one week: then changed his mind and came back up with a Sherpa in a support role. "Rubbish" that Japanese not allowed up to lead: whenever Dougal and Don wanted to come down and let others take over, there was no one there. At end only Ito and 1 Sherpa in support and week in back: had to get off mountain safely and weather again going to get back there was a lot of trouble (amongst climbers). Dougal and I came to climb a mountain to climb the face, not to argue about routes and while all the arguing going on me just kept climbing. The people who left us really intended to climb by S Col route all along.

  "Big shock to me when Dyhrenfurth and Evans got sick and learned they gone down to base and Dyhrenfurth left altogether. I wondered what was going to happen because from base can't see mountain. For 10 days no one at advance base camp, where could see who could judge what was going on. We lost a lot of time over this: there was some confusion in C2 until Peterson came up and then Evans came back; during this time expedition only half working.

  Extreme cold was hampering us a lot. It looked as if we'd have to establish a C7 and it's doubtful of 2 support people at the back (C5) could have given up the supplies we needed.

  Dropouts had some effect: think lost in argument, then West Ridgers who said would support face then got sick.

  International: "fantastic gamble, but I feel that the people who were left in the end worked very well together."

  Expedition 50% successful; we failed our fairly summit bid, but successful in working together.


  Roberts:

  We chose badly in some cases; if we'd chosen young climbers like Norwegians, Ok.

  Wouldn't want to lead another Everest expedition; one-man expeditions for him.

  If I was asked to go again a face I'd go back definitely. We had the satisfaction of trying to climb; for those who didn't even try and left no satisfaction at all, we probably would have succeeded if they'd backed us up.

  Bahuguna's fingers, eyes wide, face crusted with ice could not recognize Whillans and could not speak; when left him, could have lasted only 20 mins.

  Bahuguna's death due series of mistakes by Bahuguna and Axt themselves and perhaps allowing them to go so high alone had to leave him because in 10 minutes would be totally dark (took 5 hours 40 mins to bring him down after storm) and all others would have been frozen too.

  I lost 1 stone on Everest, 2-1/2 on Annapurna South.

  From when we abandoned climb, 5 more days to reach summit with 1 tent C7 to sleep in. 


  Haston - 27 May 71

  Haston, Uemura, Ito and Peterson on possible directissima: "we hadn't cracked." Bad weather and supply conditions; were coming back left beneath South summit and would have been again on straight line at 28,000 ft; reached 27,500 ft going slightly left; pretty well needed C7 at about 28,000 ft unless could have fixed rope to 28,000 ft "would like to try again."

  "Absolute nonsense" this expedition to put 2 Britons on top; others bid not trying to climb face. We badly needed support but got it only from 2 Japanese.

  Axt's and Schloemmer's bid to come up face "complete balls." When Don, Doug and Ito at C5 asked for 1 of 2 Austrians to come help; would have and replace next. When Schloemmer at C4 and was told from C5 (in desperate need of help to make 2-man teams) to come up, but Schloemmer said had to have Sherpa to carry his personal gear and C5'ers said Sherpa needed for carrying supplies only.

  Reclimbing Everest again I "would prefer to take it with group of climbers I already climbed with and I knew."

  "We could have done with team of 8 lead climbers." 4 which did have not enough. Annapurna South Face team would have had better chance.

  "From C5, it took up about a week to fix ropes and establish C6. Climbing fairly difficult snow and ice but not excessive. C6 we fixed beneath the rock wall and this we preposed to climb by means of a chimney which would lead us to easier angled climbing beneath the summit to left of summit. Climbed about 500 ft of this chimney before we ran out of rope. Difficult climbing at this altitude; then ran out of rope, oxygen and food which Sherpas unable to get up to us because of weather.

  Necessary for push to be made by Don and I if any climbing to be done at all. We were only ones who could push hard enough to get the route going. Japanese were happy as long as they were with us: they the only others who had experience of high Himal.

  Japanese reached C6 once carrying loads but did not stay night that camp.

  If defectors had not left night have helped to success. Vaucher and Mauri might have gone high on face.

  Of course we were disappointed in not succeeding; wife "fantastic" what he did (she was in base 3 days before he came down to base).

  With over very small team managed climb almost 2000 ft higher then very strong Japanese team. We thought we had chance of summit, but only on 1st day when supplies not coming up and stopped climbing that day in mid afternoon Whillans said "I don't reckon we are going to make it."

  If had good weather and enough supplies, another 4-5 days to make summit.

  Not enough Sherpas on face, Phu Temba only one got to C6.


  Uemura:

  Did not stay up all the time because to stay up too long we get very weak and not able to carry up supplies to D & D. Went to C6, 2 trips in one day carrying ropes and cooking set - this my obligation because we had to help them. Don was leader of South Face a that time and all time he decide. Ito and Uemura did what were told and helped D & D. If they had success then we very happy we helped them.

  If weather had been good, expedition could have succeeded. If we given chance 2 Japanese would have tried for summit, but chance not given because weather bad and not much time. If both Japanese 2 times to C6. Ito carried oxygen and tent from C4.

  Not so many falling rocks this year on face because snow (Uemura reached 8000m in 1969 on face,  Ito 1970 7500m on face)

  "Directissima possible but very difficult."


  23 May

  Base camp to be evacuated early 24th May.
  No radio contact on 24th; next contact from Thyangboche at 2:00 pm on 25th.
  Isles and Teigland arrived KTM 23 May; Howell and Eliassen coming tomorrow.


  Axt & Schloemmer - 24 May 71

  Schloemmer and Axt came down to advance because no room in high camps.

  Axt:
  C3  3 tents
  C5  3 tents (1 very dangerous from stonefall, 1 tent only for more than 1 week)
  C5  2 tents (1 tent only for more than 1 week)
  C6  1 tent

  Lack of climbing leader in C2. "No right leading on the face; everyone did what he liked."

  Axt: "I went up on 5th May but until 13th May I could not go on the face because no room, very difficult to find safe place for tents."

  C3 full of Sherpas carrying up loads.

  "There must be authority to say who goes up and who comes down." 2 British stayed up three weeks and should have come down so fresh could have gone up. "I cannot say to Dougal come down because I am not leader." No leader there to change team; 3 weeks up too much; British wanted to monopolize whole show.

  If international team there must be change of men. Japanese or British came down and Austrians go up. I was in very good condition and Leo also.

  Schloemmer: on whole expedition: "I waited several days in C3, but Don Whillans said Sherpas up no room for you" about 8-9 May from C4.


  Axt: 

  JOMR was good organizer with Sherpas to base and through icefall, but from C2 up lack of good authority. Whillans later made climbing leader after Evans sick and went down.

  If there was good organizer on the face, Axt could have succeeded; only lack was no coordinator in C2 to say who could go up and down.

  Don Whillans never came down, always in highest camp; perhaps they thought they only man in good condition and others not fit. I don't know, I never talked with them, never saw them. I was never on the face."

  Axt waited at C2 from 5 May to go up and on 13th said Ok come up, but Japanese went up instead and again no rook. After much time at that height not doing anything, much deteriorated. Japanese worked very hard carrying loads and tried themselves out, but British never carried anything but own personal gear, always looking for route.

  I tried to have a change [on the face] and I tried to go on face but had no chance defection result of poor Dyhrenfurth diplomacy. Should have let them go up via South Col and if they failed then fault not leader's fault.

  Leader intention was to get 2 men to top by face.

  Failure "for expedition and for leader its a pity. It didn't have to happen it there had been good coordinator." Learned of failure at Pheriche.

  If I stayed with Bah I could cry but maybe nobody hear and I lose all my toes and fingers. I couldn't pull him, rescuers tried to pull him. "What should I do? one hour later and I am frozen." After traverse I couldn't wait at end of traverse because stream of snow had to go further across then after some wait "I could not go up; again my fingers stiff and could not go on rope down. I had to go down to get fresh men." I think he lost his nerve on the traverse." He had all his warm clothing in his rucksack.

  I don't like the face, it's a very dangerous route and in Austria I tell my wife I will not go on face; then when leader says only face route, Ok I go".


  Isles & Teigland - 23 May 71

  Arrive Lansenger 8000m today and reached KTM this afternoon.

  Walked from Khumjung; left base 8 May with Dyhrenfurth. Left because of illness and Dr. Steele ordered them to leave so others would not catch it. Steele afraid of complications.

  Isles - those who had mononucleosis very weak and could not go above C1. Isles big mystery is how it got started."

  3 days at Khumjung; saw Dr. Lang to take blood sample but did not stay in hospital.

  Had planned to return to expedition after few days and Evans did, but others did not feel well and did not return.

  Isles had pneumonia and lung partially collapsed; got sick early April.

  6 members had mononucleosis but not Isles.

  Isles got to C3 on face May 1st and Teigland to 7000m just below C3 on ridge day before Bah's death.

  Isles found breathing worse and worse when up high so down to base 3 May; neither Norwegian agreed with defectors statement.

  South Col not possible this expedition because only 2 ridgers not ill. "Would not have been a walk up as of then said. They talked of 10 days and I don't think that possible when only 2 left who wouldn't carry loads; also there was avalanche danger which had to wait out and then icy Lhotse Face which would have taken time consuming fixed rope; doubt they were strong enough to do it alone; we had enough Sherpas on Ridge."

  Isles: storm was very decisive in whole thing; before storm organization hadn't worked out smoothly yet and storm's delay threw off and Sherpas again had to supply lower camps again; these so about South Col had ones who cancelled Ridge but if had been patient organization would have improved and Sherpas available at upper camps and might have been able climb via ridge. 

  Isles: failure it's a great shame of cause; all this effort went into this, especially on part of Dyhrenfurth who has got to live with the debts.

  Teigland: spirit went out of same West Ridge team when decided to shift to Col. "I dreamed for 2 years of West Ridge."

  Isles: afraid of face only one thing I came away regretting; decision in highly emotional moment after Bahuguna's death to cancel West Ridge. "Was great mistake."

  "Shows what is personalities of members" and Teigland their values they have. "Fact that international had nothing to do with it."

  Isles had heard rumours expedition had succeeded; if was going to fail thought would be weather. Not really shocked to learn failed; when left Khumjung "thought it was a toss up."

  Both certainly hope to return to Nepal; before Everest again some smaller peak in smaller party of Canada, USA and Norway.


  JOMR 

  Ito Uemura presumed be at C4 or C5 assisting Sherpas carrying loads to C5, possibly as far as C6; possibility if Japanese making 2nd summit attempt are nil but Japanese have done work 2nd to none including but plain without their assistance Whillans and Haston could not make summit. Sato may be able to Uemura at base on 24 or 25th assuming summit by 22nd.


  17 May 71 - from Roberts am

  C6 not yet actually slept in although way preferred and some stones

  Site is at 27,000 feet on right of face at top right end of right arm of Y couloir. The rock band has yet to be climbed but at least weather is fine.


  Dyhrenfurth - 17 May 71

  I am still 100% optimistic that we will have a success which is after all the best answer to criticism because this after all is what we set out to do; even if only one man reaches the top will have been success. Not quanity irrelevant but hope gaps British, Austrians and even Sherpas if weather reports are accurate that it will improve chances are very very good. I'm only sorry I have to leave but this Dr's order and were 2 leaders. 


  Dyhrenfurth - 16 May 71

  Kohli criticism its based on faulty information. Bahuguna and Axt did not run out of rope but as Axt said in his statement knowing fixed rope had been placed, then knowingly left rope behind.

  Dyhrenfurth said "very proud man" but did not say he "overly ambitious." "He wanted do well for his country and pushed himself hard, perhaps too hard."

  re Axt should not have left Bah but should have gone back to look." "There I agree with him (Kholi) but it's easy to judge after the event."


  Dyhrenfurth - 13 May 71

  Very difficult expedition, the most difficult of 6 Himalayan expedition I been on; weather very bad; worst climb: icefall most difficult and dangerous I have ever seen it.

  Began to consider alternate route: Nuptse shoulder. Didn't want another accident like last year's. Japanese worked to find safest route but almost every day something collapsed.

  On mountain very icy: in 1963 West Ridge approach snow slopes but this year blue green ice - for more fixed ropes needed - very tragic death of because on way up to C2 lost his voice replying to Bah's call; by time rescuers reached him "all but dead." West Ridgers wanted to give up that route because of Bah's death. Axt and Isles still wanted Ridge; Vauchers at first undecided, but swayed by Mazeaud to abandon ridge and try Col by which 23 men have reached summit. JOMR and 1 had in planning decided would not do Col but 2 new routes; so when Ridgers voted for Col, I was disappointed but said reluctantly I would support them, but at C2 Sherpas and sahib came to me and it obvious at C2 thought it too late in season (stating when AMME on summit). Let's concentrate on one route only, so Dhyrenfurth decided to suspend operations on Col and consulted JOMR. Asked JOMR to make decision and Roberts discussed with Sirdar Sonam Girme who said Sherpas all in favour of route; had several times invited them to join face; no plots; they were invited and reasons of their own perhaps they felt others younger and stronger had better chance; beneath dignity to climb others ropes not valid because this done all time in Alps. Contract unfullfillment charges by defectors nonsense because Paragraph I of contract says members will obey leaders on routes and approach, so very clear they did not abide by contract. We did all we could: $8500/man cost totalling $250,000 without salary Dyhrenfurth so very disappointed.

  Despite all these setbacks, we were hit by virus of mononucleosis and my conviction it was carried in by unwanted visitors and this great danger to big expeditions; people we don't know (including hippies) expecting to be fed; this one of first expeditions where leader has to leave expedition before its finished.

  In spite of this we still have 7 or 8 men and strong Sherpas.

  Haston established C5 26,000 ft and Whillans saw route and if we have little luck with weather will make it; slightly to right of directissima.

  Haston and Whillans certainly among 10 outstanding climbers of world.

  Also Uemura and Ito very strong. 2 Austrians and Peterson (at C2 and carried to C3) hope Evans can still play a part; went back to base on 11 May and he is trying; is strong.

  bad weather
  sickness
  bad conditions
  defections

  Will make it.

  Defections not dishonourable but I'm disappointed. Miss Vaucher very ambitious to be first woman on Everest; Mauri a hero past his prime and Everest summit could make him bigger hero; Mazeaud's polished career not harmed by summit.

  Oxygen 6-7 hours/bottle vs Hamburg 3-1/2 hours; might make it from C5 without another camp with this in 1970 Japanese got to 26,000 ft only, but couldn't find camp site to go higher. Haston and Whillans found site slightly over to right.

  Sherpas not just employees; treated them as equals and opinions valuable.

  South Col route's C3 only establish would have taken at least 4 weeks to reach summit.

  Internationalism not the problem we faced. Cooperation good until this thing happened; was because of personality, variety, ego; on whole experiment very successful: e.g., on icefall.

  Vaucher threw rocks at his tent because she was so angry. Many unpleasant things I could say, but I don't think it in good taste.

  Mauri told Eliassen (who never authorized 4 defectors to quote him) about Nevada ski binding and after ski lotion to summit for photography. Himalayan mountain should not be commercialized in this way.

  Vaucher not in C2 for vote and went down to base because of leg pain and thought to be out of climbing. Axt sick, Isles didn't want col, 2 Norwegians voted to support face.

  I reserve right to sue on libel and contract, if they continue to spread stories. Will probably think over Pres International Mt Federation Albert. 

  Experiment in International that was only partially successful, after all UN has tried for good long time and not done too well.

  Followed Japanese route, C3 at same platform; fixed ropes to C4 and again Japanese platform. Then at 26,000 ft rock face start where Japanese unable to go higher, but route still as close to directissima as can be under conditions of this year.

  If weather not so bad and Axt's feet not getting so cold maybe he could have been served; he very ambitious (had not been able to get to summit in 1965) and very strong but didn't admit to his climbing companion how tired he was. On 5 Apr at C2 Norman told him to go down to rest; Bahuguna said was tired and would go down after putting up C3 with Axt. If Axt had known how tired he was, Axt surely would have roped together. Axt misunderstood Bah's having hand signal which Axt thought meant Ok.

  Whillans sure all rescuers would have died if they had not left Bahuguna as and when they did.


  Roberts to Cheney - 12 May 71

  Norm 1) Gary ex-Lukla  13

  Howell, Isles, 2 Norwegians on foot about 23 May (leaving now).

  Provided summit is not later than 16 May, hope to send 4 on 19 May ex-Lukla and 2 on helicopter 18 May.

  2 BBC will walk out leaving total of 13 including 2 woman (Mrs Haston and Kathy Watts).

  Arrive KTM 3 May and left on 5th to BC. Could clear these 13 in 3 flights ex-Lukla between 25-27 May (2 flights additional).


  Roberts - 10 May 

  News from above is very scanty and optimism grows and dies. I think the game must be settled one way or the other within one week.


  Mazeuad - 7 May 

  We asked Nepal permission to come back to Nepal in private expedition to realize goal to climb Everest.


  Vaucher

  Sherpa went down to meet Dyhrenfurth on 18th; very lucky otherwise might have been 2nd tragedy; one man alone in bad weather very dangerous.

  Took 1 hour to reach Bahuguna at about 6 pm; died about 6-6:30 pm.

  On 22nd down to C1 because no food in C2. 24th we went to bring down Bahuguna to C2; after Bahuguna's death and having seen organization not good because lack of food and now 24-25 April and at C2 14 Sherpas but only 4 for ridge. We realize JOMR supports climb by face. Many Ridgers at C2 and discuss this and we think we should go via South Col which is easier and which will allow us to go to the summit.

  Isles and Axt for ridge. 

  Sirdar and Tiegland by radio said would follow majority decision.

  Dyh moved Vaucher coordinator for South Col. In beginning Dyh not happy about change of route, but once it taken he said he would help: I know the col very well and I will tell you where to go. On 24th 4 went to establish C3 7150m with 3 Sherpas.


  Mazeaud

  Discussed would put C4 7600m on col where AMME had some camp when Dyhrenfurth 5 pm said the face climbers was hoping all strength would be put to climb face and this problem could be discussed at dinner. At dinner something strange: Dyhrenfurth asked only facers their opinion and obvious facers would consider South Col should not be continued. Colers tried to resist this decision hoping they would ask all Colers for their opinion; this not done: Dyhrenfurth decided by votes of only facers. Mazeaud and Mauri decided go down to base camp with others. 

  Colers on 28th. 


  Vaucher

  Mazeaud and Mauri arrives completely demoralized at Vaucher's base camp. 

  Vaucher tried to discuss and support Colers but Dyhrenfurth said not I who decided this: all Sherpas decided to go on Face. Vaucher said Dyhrenfurth hired Sherpas and JOMR now at Gorak Shep and Dyhrenfurth said must wait JOMR's return. When he came back and 2 leaders talked 1/2 hour and JOMR said all Sherpas are for the face. 

  If you don't want to go on the face you have to go home.


  Yvette Vaucher

  This decision truly inhuman to decide like, this monstrous to decide like this. To climb highest mountain of world something everyone dreams about to go easier way because we are surer to reach the summit. If we want to do very difficult climb we can as well stay in Europe. I think reputations of Michel, Pierre and Carlo don't need to come here to give them better reputation. Alpinism is friendly sport, not like football where we have to fight morally. They have harmed us very badly and this cannot be repaired. Here at once I lose Everest and all the friends.


  Mazeaud

  Profound motivation of Dyhrenfurth who acts like this. We are not rebels but our only aim was to reach the summit of Everest. This motivation brought us here. Dyhrenfurth agreed with this as at Thyangboche he impressed us those have not personal ambitions to reach summit should go here, but in fact we now believe Dyhrenfurth prevented us to reach summit. So we must find reasons: this time when we have chosen the good, there were 2 conceptions of climbing: which have been in opposition classical amongst those on Ridge and more modern amongst those on face. I note that Alpine climbers were those who held classic conception while the Anglo held the modern conception. Japanese were on the face tried by contact. Tokyo paper and and Dyhrenfurth for the true reason preventing us from going to summit was if we had reached summit by S Col before face group, public camps and press would be no longer interested by face route. For example, if Yvette reached summit by col, this first woman in the world to reach summit. Public opinion no longer interested in what is happening on the face. What Yvette did much more important to press than what they did on face. To me essential motivation of facers with Dyhrenfurth and JOMR was to prevent us to reach summit. If this group has reached summit:
   
    1st Italian
    1st French
    1st Norwegian
    1st Pole to reach the summit. 

  And there's no more interest for face route. Others motivations to be seen as defamatory Dyhrenfurth published: Dyhrenfurth considers we are incompetent and our departures guarantee expedition's success. Why he chose us? Not necessary to give you our record; he said personal and political reasons have driven us to join; why has he chosen us?

  If we 4 hope of success of expedition for the members, we don't hesitate to say that we reserve all our flights, the leader of the expedition. The program was for 2 routes and leaders agreed to modification but by canceling one, they don't respect their contract anymore.


  Vaucher

  JOMR drunk ordered Sherpas to remove Mazeaud by force. Sherpas did not move and at end shake hands with Mazeaud and said they were sorry.

  Criticism of organization: lack of Sherpas.

  Mazeaud: planning. Harsh Bahaguna worked enormously previous days to his death. At this altitude. It is good to rest frequently.


  Vaucher

  We did not go to face because our motivation was to go to summit. On face we could just be porters for Haston and Williams. There and expect to main and myself that we were not climbers worthy to go to face. S Col too easy and should help on face.


  Hiebeler - 27 April 71

  Was 12 days in C2, and then down to rest at basecamp and on this day Bahaguna died at 7200m coming down to C1 and next day received news which made him very sad. Has been 32 years in mountain and never saw accident, not even broken arm. 

  2-3 days in KTM and then to Munich or him details of death not important. Harsh his best friend on expedition.

  West Ridge climbers abandon ad shift to South Col route. Decision 21 April after Bahaguna death. On ridge too difficult for time available. Michel Vaucher now leader of S Col team and Yvette waits him on S Col. 

  Hiebeler reached maximum 7000m on face; all other members or thinks too late to climb to sumit by face. Need 3 weeks just for 8000-8400m on face. 1 Week to reach 8000m and more 2-3 days from 8400m to summit to summit; total 5 weeks and monsoon coming 20 May just possible by S Col.


  Shyam - 26 April

  Body [of Bahaguna] will arrive Camp about 3:00 26 April. Roberts left base for G about 10:30 26 April. Tiegland left base for Lukla early am 25 April. 

  H. B. Gurung now in base from C1 but Sayle not yet at base. 


  From IHE - 25 April 

  To Pranto

  For Indian embassy regret most unlikely cremation possible 27th April in which case ashes felt. 29th April unlikely. Await further news 26th April.


  Kelly - 19 April

  3000 ft close site original American camp. Await details from leader whom arrives base day or day after.

  Sayle at present at camp are - pass prefall summiters also BBC London for news editor newscasts ps4 C3 West establish 3 days ago.


  Recce

  Adv party nearly top icefall 25th March.
    Haston
    Whillans
    Mauri
    Uemura


  28th am

  Steele says having trouble with huge crevasses near icefall top.


  28th pm

  Roberts says work in icefall continues not yet possible establish C1.


  29th March

  In icefall. At first Haston and Whillans down for acclimatization (flow in) so Schloemmer took his place.

  Vaucher inspection - asked Axt and Bahuguna to find safer route which they did, then Eliassen and Teigland perished almost to top of icefall; stopped by crevasse passed by same climbers notabely Haston, but much work left to make it safe.


  5 March

  Expedition at Changma and remaining there are unscheduled day because of desertation of porters, naikes and snow and rain.


  7 March

  Tonight at Junbesi
  Mar 9  Night at Kharikhola
  Mar 11 Night at Phakding
  Mar 13-15th nights at Thyangboche
  Mar 16-20th Night at Pheriche
  21st night at Lobjue
  22nd night at Gorashep

  1963 Everest traverse started new chapter in Himalayas climbing history: here all climb of major Himalayan peaks by easiest route.

  Japanese tried SW Face 1970 but reached 26,000 ft only and defeated by falling rock from poor snow conditions.

  Since 1958 tried in Alps, now in Himalayas. 


  1) climb SW Face and West Ridge "pure mountaineering on tough new routes."

  2) experiment - understand and cooperations amoung many nations - 13 in this expeditions.

  3) physiological research.

  SW Face perhaps more dangerous route - more objective danger.

  West Ridge longer, more exposed to northwest winds so famous on Everest; same near vertical pitches.

  If not successful on SW Face directissima, face might traverse onto Ridge. 

  1st expedition to Everest ex-Nepal not going by easiest route at all; will not attempt South Col route at all.

  Neither leader has summit ambition: "We are two old men of the team." Best age for high altitude climbing is 33 years old. More mature men not so apt to get pulmonary edema, more in getting along with others even at high altitudes lack of oxygen.

  "I believe in the yeti," but don't expect to see on with a big expedition.

  Yvette "capable of reaching summit." One of best woman mountaineers in world; technically capable of reaching the top ,but don't know how she'll acclimatize for has never been at such high altitudes; will be on West Ridge with husband.

  South Buttress route is possible; not so difficult as face but is difficult; if this expedition succeeds on face, next Everest party may want to try buttress.

  300 porters already gone with loads and daily Islanders flights to Lukla. Another 300 porters with team leave 28th. About 150 loads left to leave on 2nd total of 1000 porter loads. Bigger expedition and lot of BBC baggage.

  Reach Pheriche for acclimatization and sorting gear in 14 days from 28th so 13 March. About a week at Pheriche and then 2 days onto base. Meanwhile route to base camp will be opened and 21st March established. By nearly April route through icefall (temporary route anyway) will be opened. Hope to have all of May for summit assaults. 

  Members include LO. 


  Norman Dyhrenfurth - 21 Feb 71

  South Face route as expected now but west of Japanese route; hope to minimize falling rock and hope to keep straight. 

  South face  C3 24,500 feet
              C4 26,000 feet
              C5 27,600-27,700 ft

  Ridge same as AMME

  C3 below crest of ridge 23,500 ft
  C4 end of long snow ridge 24,500 ft
  C5 on ridge 26,000 ft
  C6 on ridge 27,700 ft

  No plan to use South Col at all; has been done. If face no go, will do W Ridge all along.

  Prepare high camps on W Ridge and potential summiters go down and do all way through quickly from base via Lho La and W Shoulder to prepared ridge camps starting with an internal camp between C3 W and C4 W. Maybe biv 1st right below in shoulder and then on to C4 West or intermediary camp. This would be new route an longest route on Everest. Avoids Khumbu Icefall but has even more objective danger of icefalls and avalanches but fast strong climbers could get through early am before sun loosens things. 

  300 porters leave 25th members leave on 27th. Rest of baggage 25 leaves on 3 March, 100 porters. Drive to Lamosangu and 300 more porters.

  Austrian mountain type - can also be used for equipment.

  4 hard pitches: 1 perhaps on ridge and 2-3 on face. Each much has 800m steel cable and 400m thinner wire rope.

  Great deal of ironware: pitons, ice screws, expansion bolts for face.

  Oxygen equipment: cylinders US made, heavier than French but hold more oxygen. Main break through is Blume system with diluter-demand system (also open circuit). Can set at equivalent of certain altitudes. Has no need for breathing bag.


  Dyhrenfurth - 18 Feb 71

  Cleare, Howell and Jerzy Surdel of BBC team all potential summiters.

  Best climbers:
    Michel Vaucher
    Whillans
    Haston
    Schloemmer

  Would like to see 6 men to top from each route (2 at a time) hopes to get to C4 West himself. JOMR to advance base.


  Uemura

  Would like Crown Prince to visit expedition in early April or end of May.


  Dyh - USA

  Mauri (Italy) 
  Haston (British)
  Vaucher
  Vaucher
  Steele (British)
  Hiebeler 

  Axt - W Ridge climbing leader
  Peterson (USA)
  Schloemmer (Austria)
  Eliassen (Norway)
  [David Isles dropped out]

  Sayles


  Norman Dyrenfurth - 16 Feb 71

  After the last time I thought that was it for me, then after home very empty and looking for real challenge and this was it. 

  These 2 routes the most difficult route of Everest; hope to be in position to make assault after May 1 for favorable weather.

  West Ridge - 6 high camps
  South Face - 5 high camps

  10 days at 14,000 ft at Pheriche acclimatization and practice climbs from March 10-19 and then onto base. Ideal altitude for acclimatization and away others so can work peacefully.

  Simultaneous attacks via both routes - perhaps up via one route down other.

  Last camp 27,800 ft on West Ridge 8500m. 
  Base as usual 17,800 ft. 
  C2 = advance base from which routes split, thus 3 camps on face above advance base. 

  Japanese failed because so little snow that rock was loose. Hope this year more snow so rock frozen in place.

  Extremely strong team, strongest team ever to Everest. 2 members did S Face Annapurna and that most difficult accomplishment so far; not had enough to predict.

  Success because Khumbu icefall can act up, weather can be against us, avalanche rockfall on face, but given same luck in all these things team has excellent chances of success.


  Dyhrenfurth International 1955

  Brun Spirig (Swiss) skied from 20,000 ft top of icefall to base camp with taking off skis once.

  1963 skied up West Cwn from top of icefall to 23,000 ft and skied whole W Cwm.

  Japanese skiers didn't discuss with Dyhrenfurth at base concerning route skiing doubt its from summit: too steep, too many rocks sticking out. Lhotse face is skiable: many slopes in Alps have been skied. Couloir is skiable if have strength at that altitude and if have proper oxygen equipment but danger from falling ice and stone but from only 20 couloir not altitude records since Stermberger's Cho Oyu is from higher. 

  JAC climbing leader when met at base camp last north (16th James burial = 22nd met JAC) said had gone to 7500m and were not trying directissima but go to right up south buttress. If they do south buttress Dyhrenfurth's and JOMR's IHE 1971 will try directissima. Hope to have 1 or 2 Russians included, including 1 woman.

  Norm took good look at South face with glasses from Kala Pattar.

  Crevasse at top of West Cwm = bergschrund

  On 27 Feb 69 JOM Roberts wrote American and British ambassadors that his and Norman Dyhrenfurth's Everest expeditions are to be combined: one International (chiefly USA and British) expedition to South Face of Everest in spring 1971, with Roberts and Dyhrenfurth as Joint leaders.

  Dhaulagiri II expedition of Roberts postponed from fall of 1969 to spring of 1970. Most members to be in Everest attempt of 1971.

  Kellas briefly informed Khanal of above on 4 March 69.


expid: CHUR70301
peakid: CHUR
year: 1970
route1: SE Face to Central Pk
nation: Japan
leaders: Ryozo Yamamoto
sponsor: Academic Alpine Club of Shizuoka Churen Himal Expedition
ascent1: 1st,2nd Central Smt
approach: Pokhara->Beni->Gurjakhani
bcdate: 1970-09-24
smtdate: 1970-10-24
smttime: 1100
termdate: 1970-11-01
othersmts: Climbed Churen Himal West (CHRW-703-01)
campsites:
  BC(24/09,4100m),C1(25/09,4750m),C2(01/10,5300m),C3(05/10,5650m),C4(11/10,6300m),C5(18/10,6600m),C6(21/10,6800m),Smt(24,26/10)

routememo:
  All 5 climbers arrive KTM today.

  Believe Koreans reached ony 7000m on East peak because their highest camp at 6300m and not possible to reach summit East Peak from there.

  Japanese C5 - 6600m
           C6 - 6800m highest camp
  From C5 to top took one day up very steep

  Japanese on 24 Oct members Masayoshi and Hasegawa reached summit Central Peak 7371m from C6 at 6800m.

  26 Oct - 2 Sherpas and Doma reached Central Peak summit
  28 Oct - attempted traverse ex-C6 to main peak (West Peak) 7371m
         - successful also Hasegawa again and Sherpa Sirdar Ang Norbu 

  C4 - 6300m
  C3 - 5650m
  C2 - 5310m
  C1 - 4700m
  BC - 4100m
   
  Approached from southeast in Central part of massif. South Face looked very steep from base, but found route by approaching from southeast (Italians had turned by west). Future attempts should try southwest side direct to main peak; if had more fixed rope would have tried this route.

  Stay KTM one week

  After 2-3 Dhaulagiri IV will reach Pokhara; Tukuche expedition 1 week to Pokhara.


  Shah, MFA - 12 Nov 70

  Left base 3 Nov, arrive Beni 9 Nov
  All well; successful or not, not given
  (Sherpa said to have climbed alone, according local paper)


  GB Shah, MFA - 6 Oct 70

  Churen Himal expeditions leader brought to KTM yesterday report of Fukuoka expedition's establish C1; he's not well and is returning to Japan, leaving KTM tomorrow (and not returning to Nepal, according to Matsezawa).

  West Peak of Churen Himal summitted on 28 Oct:
    Kozo Hasegawa
    Ang Norbu Sherpa


expid: DHA170301
peakid: DHA1
year: 1970
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Tokuhu Ota, Seiji Imanari
sponsor: Doshisha University Expedition 1970
ascent1: 3rd
approach: Pokhara->Myagdi Khola
bcdate: 1970-09-06
smtdate: 1970-10-20
campsites:
  BC(06/09,4400m),C1(12/09,5000m),C2.ABC(20/09,5650m),C3(27/09,6300m),C4(6900m),C5(16/10,7300m),C6(19/10,7800m),Smt(20/10)

routememo:
  Kawano - 14 Nov 70

  Doshisha arrive today. 
  Ishikawa & Kawano

  Mostly Swiss route ex-northeast; found Swiss C4 and C5.

  Only one summit attempt because snow weather. Strong winds all in C3 and below 5-12 Oct. After making C4, C5 and C6, success 20 Oct by Kawada and Lhakpa Tenzing and 5 days after schedule and now very difficult route with snow and jet stream very strong winds.

  Difficult: very deep snow and many avalanches and upper side very steep and very soft snow which avalanched and icefall in northeast glacier from base to C1.

  BC 4400m
  C1 5000m
  C2 5650m
  C3 6300m
  C4 6900m
  C5 7300m
  C6 7800m

  All others arrive KTM tomorrow
  No accident or illness


  MFA - 17 Sept 70
  Dhaulagiri I, Doshisha University

  Established base C4 Sept at 4400m. 
  C1 to be established 13 Sept according to letter written on 9th by LO.

  Base camp to be on Myagdi Khola.


expid: DHA470301
peakid: DHA4
year: 1970
route1: Junction Pk-W Ridge from SW-Smt Dha VI
nation: Japan
leaders: Michihiko Ogata
sponsor: Fukuoka Alpine Club Himalayan Committee - Dhaulagiri IV
smtdate: 1970-11-01
termnote: Abandoned due to difficult knife-edged ridge
campsites: BC(4100m),C1(4650m),C2(5000m),C3(5750m),C4(6060m),C5(6350m),C6(6900m),xxx(6900m)
othersmts:
  Climbed Dhaulagiri VI (DHA6-703-01) and Gama Peak (GAMA-703-01); attempted Junction Peak (JUNC-703-01)

routememo:
  Ogata, Fukuoka - 20 Nov 70

  Came to KTM alone today; seats very difficult so others may come by car. Ogata will stay until Nov end.

  "We were deceived by the map and then by the real mountain." Our route too long to reach Dhaulagiri IV.

  Tried to reach from southwest and made C6 at 6900m near Junction Peak of 23,320 ft; first followed same route as Gurja Himal and then north of Dhaulagiri VI to reach Junction Peak (7108m).

  C4 due west of Dhaulagiri VI and then west and up face north of Dhaulagiri IV and found prominent peak north of Dhaulagiri VI. On 25 Oct this north peak reached by Nakashima and Nabeyama and they reported seemed easy to reach Dhaulagiri IV peak. They climbed what they called Gama Peak (Ogata's nickname at medical school); this peak probably the 7100m peak.

  Found very difficult to reach Junction Peak because very narrow ridge of very strong winds and seemed almost impossible to carry loads there; tried until 3 Nov to fix ropes and make route.

  Meanwhile 2 Sherpas and Koga and Nakashima climbed Dhaulagiri VI on 1 Nov from C6 to have better view of Dhaulagiri IV finally gave up because afraid supplies too low; no one could see any signs of Austrians. Their last camps site flat and wide enough for tents, but many crevasses and very rough; could be seen from base and Dhaulagiri VI. Said Austrians must have been very good climbers because face they climbed to last camps very steep and icy.

  BC  4100m
  C1  4650m
  C2  5000m
  C3  5750m
  C4  6060m
  C5  6350m
  C6  6900m

  "Possibility from our C5 there might be direct route to reach rock [Junction] peak but is very steep blue ice so would take many days making route."

  Took us 30 days to make route and establish C5; need more fine days so pre-monsoon better but might be difficult to get porters across pass to BC site.

  Also might be possibility from north but didn't see much of this side.
   
  No accidents and no serious illness.


  Fukuoka

  Same route as Kansai University expedition up to C3: southwest route western ridge.

  Total 8 camps because ridge very long.
  Base at Kaphe Khola
  8 Sherpas says Motherland.


  Dhaulagiri IV

  Base camp to be near Gurjakhani
  Route from Ghustang Khola and west


expid: PK2970301
peakid: PK29
year: 1970
route1: E Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Syotaro Mizuno
sponsor: Himalayan Expedition of Osaka University Mountaineering Club
ascent1: 1st unverified
bcdate: 1970-09-12
smtdate: 1970-10-19
termdate: 1970-10-24
termnote: Success claimed, but summiters died in descent
accidents: 2 summiters killed in fall
campsites:
  BC(12/09,4000m),C1(20/09,5100m),C2(23/09,5800m),C3(09/10,6250m),C4(11/10,6900m),C5(18/10,7500m),Smt(19/10)

routememo:
  Note: Ohsasa's name given as Ozawa in JAC 1971

  Ohsasa - 10 Nov 70

  Ohsasa and Ishihara arrive today and others later this evening.
  No 2nd attempt because of accident.
  Ohsasa reached 7500m last C5.

  Peak very difficult above 7000m because steepness, very hard ice. Almost whole route above C4 (6900m) to C5 fixed rope.

  4 members reached C5: 
    Ishihara
    Ohsasa 
    Ono
    Tai
  Miss Saigusa's high point was C2 5800m.

  Fatal accident. No member saw it happen. Watanabe and Lhakpa Tsering at 1:15 pm could be seen from C3 just below summit and again at 3:00 pm could them see perhaps about 7800m and assumed they reached summit between these 2 times. They fell almost at C5, nearly 2 or 3 pitches above C5; fell to very near C4 which at 6900m. Cause of fall not known. Watanabe head injury; cremated at base camp and ashes now at embassy for taking to Japan. Lhakpa Tsering same head injury and spine broken.

  Climbed by East Ridge (last year's expedition used almost same route). This year had last year's experience: 4 members this expedition twice or 3 times attacked summit last year and these men thus knew route.

  Last year autumn 7400m highest point reached. Last year little late and this year earlier start and C4 establish very early this year. Last year C4 was highest camp whereas this year had C5, extra camp, in crevasse.

  BC - 4000m
  C1 - 5100m
  C2 - 5800m
  C3 - 6200m
  C4 - 6900m
  C5 - 7500m

  Small rock found near Lhakpa Tsering's body, probably summit rock.


expid: KJRS70301
peakid: KJRS
year: 1970
route1: S Spur-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kazuhisa Jokei
sponsor: Osaka City University Himalayan Expedition 1970
ascent1: 1st
countries: Nepal
approach: Surkhet->Jumla->Chaudhabise Khola
bcdate: 1970-09-25
smtdate: 1970-11-07
smttime: 1530
termdate: 1970-11-16
campsites:
  BC(25/09,3810m),C1(03/10,4300m),C2(09/10,4780m),C3(11/10,5360m),C4.ABC(27/10,4000m),C5(02/11,5220m),C6(04/11,5480m),C7(06/11,5800m),Smt(07/11)

routememo:
  Sato

  South of Kanjiroba 2 main peaks - 6882m on 7th Nov 4 members reached summit.

  Route Bijora Khola where put base camp across Patrasi Himal at 5360m col down to Jagdula Khola which followed south to C4. On Jagdula Khola is about one month which all members and 4 Sherpas reached. C4 established 26 Oct from C4 up ice glacier and icefall towards Kanjiroba South Main Peak South Ridge.

  C5 5200m 3 Nov; very dangerous icefall just below C5.

  C7 5800m 6 Nov on South Ridge; final camp most difficult route from C7 to summit: vertical long and steep and snow and very bad and very loose. Campsites difficult.

  1st summit attempt 7 Nov: Left C7 at 5:00 am with headlamps; reached summit 3:30 pm and left 4:30 pm and weather became bad (very strong wind and white-out). Decided at 6:30 to bivouac 100m from summit at 6800m. Very cold, very hungry, very thirsty; no frostbite. On 8th Nov continued down to C7 going very slowly because very tired; reached C7 1:30 pm, all 4 together with help of leader and Sherpa Phurkipa. 

  Had planned that leader and Phurkipa and 2 others would be second attack Nov 8, but 2 went up to help late returns and therefore cancelled 2nd assault and returned to base.

  Members trekking: Okuda, Goto, Sawai

  Returned to Kathamndu via Surkhet after 16th Dec. Others waiting for STOL to bring to KTM 9th Dec.


expid: TUKU70101
peakid: TUKU
year: 1970
route1: N Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Seiji Yamamoto
sponsor: Waseda University Tukuche Peak Expedition
ascent1: 1st official
smtdate: 1970-04-30
smttime: 1400
campsites: ABC(5150m),C1(5800m),C2(6300m),Smt(30/04)
accidents: Kikuchi killed in fall
routememo:
  Yamamoto - 19 May 70

  Today 12 members to KTM with 5 left in PKR and other 3 hope to come tomorrow: Murata, Miyake and Nagatari.

  Yonemoto same pain still, but in few days complete recovery, not so strong yet. Otani right foot 2 toes frostbitten, lost ends 3 upper teeth, but chest recovered already.

  Kikuchi cremated at Tukuche village in dry Kali Gandaki bed on 12th May. Will take ashes to Japan and give ashes to parents at Tokyo airport ceremony. 

  Requesting seat CCU/TKY, for arrival 23rd night 9:00 Pan Am (ed KTM IAC 21st May).


  Naoji Sakai - 6 May 70

  Sakai was at adv Base Camp time of most accidents; still in base camp because 2 injured men now there since 2nd May. Now trying to reach dead body in glacier - or 2 injured with colleague at Tukuche village while search for body.

  Trio started at 2:30 am from C2 about 6300m 30th April. Reached summit at 2:00 pm and stayed 30 mins. Placed flags of Waseda Univ and Japanese and Nepali and taking photos. Kikuchi very tired so we will reach 6300m camp late and maybe reach there about 8:00 pm. Reached Junction Peak about 6600m at 8:30-9:00 pm and after peak, descending Kikuchi slipped fell only 15 minutes above C2. Tied together so 3 fell together 300m on south side towards Miyagdi Khola glacier. 3 were unconscious 1-1/2 hours. About 10:30 Yonemoto sent accident message to adv base camp by walkie-talkie. Yamamoto said they should pitch tents there where they were, but men confused and threw it away; but nights not very cold or windy. 4 members including Yamamoto sent at 11:30 pm to C1 and they reached there about 2:00 am 1 May. There already 4 members and of these 2 members went to C2 starting about 2 am.

  About 5:30 am Yonemoto sent news to Yamamoto in C1 that Kikuchi slipped again from bivouac. Slipped slowly and other 2 tried catch up with him and stop him but unable; Kikuchi fell another 200m. 8 am 3 members from C2 reached biv site and 5-6 others including doctor reached C2. Otani and Yamamoto able walk to C2 where doctor took care of him. 

  Kikuchi body's could be seen through binoculars from spot C1 and C2, but could not be reached because very dangerous terrain of crevasses and seracs.

  Yonemoto's left hip bruised, Otani breast bone maybe broken.

  Kikuchi's family asked cremation and will done at Tukuche village and ashes taken to Japanese by expdition.

  Base 3900m, C1 4300m

  Advance base 5150m beyond Dhampus Pass. After advance Base established 1st 2 camps abandoned and 2 camps made above adv base:
    1st 5800m
    2nd 6300m
    Adv base now called base.

  Waseda University expedition

  Left Pokhara on 3 April 70.


  D. Kykushin - 31st March 70

  Members to PKR 2 days ago, 2 members tomorrow. Rest of members and 2 Sherpas, Ang Temba and A.T. III, and kitchen boy and liaison officer to PKR with all baggage (except rice & veg?) in charter departure 12:40. About 1 week PKR/base camp; dep PKR 3 April. 

    Base at 3900m (Dampus Pass, Hidden Valley advance base):
    C1A - 4800m in Hidden Valley
    Adv BC - 5000m
    C1B - 5600m
    C2  - 6200m
    C3  - 6600m

  Summit attempt about first of May. Same route via NE Ridge as Swiss.


expid: CHRE70101
peakid: CHRE
year: 1970
route1: E side-E Smt
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Jung-Sup
sponsor: Korean Alpine Club, Seoul - Expedition to Churen Himal
ascent1: 1st disputed
bcdate: 1970-04-19
smtdate: 1970-04-29
termnote: Success disputed by Japanese
othersmts: Attempted Churen Himal West Peak (CHRW-701-01)
campsites: BC(19/04),C1,C2,C3(20/04),C4,C5,C6(6600m),Smt(29/04)
routememo:
  Kim Ki-Sup, (Manaslu Spr 1971) - 13 Feb 71

  It was definitely possible to reach Churen East Peak from last camp in 1970; took 16 hours from camp to summit.

  Japanese who doubted Koreans claim would not meet Kim's brother when he was in Japan. Brother is ready to go to summit with Japan, who probably cannot reach it himself so thinks others also cannot.

  29 April summit East Peak. 

  1 May from C6 to West Peak: Kim Ho-Sup and Sherpa in bad condition, weather very good; at 7000m Kim slipped 10m and felt something broken in chest and completely tired and return to C6. Then on 2nd May team returned to base.
   
  Kim and leader yesterday afternoon to KTM and rest today on leader fall 30 April in camp to C4.

  On 29th the summiters so late, leader went to look for summiters and fell slightly and next day left side painful and left arm visable; carried by Sherpas to base from C1 but now better though X-rays indicated.


  Shah, MFA - 28 April 70

  Korean expedition to Churen reports advance party established C3 on 20th April; no altitude given.


  Shah, MFA - 13 April

  Arrived Beni 12 April, plan to establish base camp on 19 April.


  Shah, MFA - 7 April

  Left Pokhara at 8:00 am this morning with 40 porters.


expid: RANI70101
peakid: RANI
year: 1970
route1: SE side-S Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: J. F. Saltet, J. A. Noordyk
sponsor: 1970 Netherlands Himalaya Expedition
ascent1: 1st-4th
smtdate: 1970-05-05
othersmts: Permit for Peak 29 (PK29-701-01)
campsites: BC(4000m),C1(4900m),C2(5600m),C3(6000m),C4(6250m),Smt(05-08/05)
routememo:
  Korthals-Altes & Wouters - 19 May 70

  Technically not difficult climb. Everything very smoothly up to C4 6270m. Above to summit snow ridge and small ice wall and find ice field to summit; had to think while climbing there, while it was walking up to C4. 4 hours to summit for 1st party with bad weather and making route to 1-1/2 hrs for last party in fine weather and route already made. Called Liberation Peak because 25 years ago on May 5 Holland liberated by USA and Canadian forces.

  All except Wouters leave KTM 20th and in Netherlands Sat except ??.


  Noordyk - 4 May 70

  All non-climbers here in KTM.

  After last fall's Peak 29 expedition, potato crop failed and villagers had to go 10 days at least to Aurughat and back to get food. [Villagers angry and blamed climbers.] Japanese able to climb because responsible of Samans in Tibet with yaks.

  So applied for NE Peak of Himalchuli 6550m (attempted by 1959 Japanese expedition unsuccessfully). April received permit. 4000-4600m base and C1 established on 25th having had plenty of time for acclimatization. Approach from southeast. 26th would try make C2 at 5500m and asked trekkers for another tent for a C3 at 6000m.

  Trekkers reached Gorkha airport yesterday and arrived KTM today. All except journalist Hendrik Hovinga leave Friday.

  Climbers return KTM 19 May via Gorkha.


  Noordyk - 27 March 70

  Noordyk and 15 arrive today and Wouters already here. Leave Tuesday am if expedition baggage arrives ex-NDH. 2 weeks to base camp about 5000m in upper Buri Gandaki above Sama village. Has Tibetan message for villagers in Sama from lama in Netherlands.

  Try to find way up. Think will follow partly same route as Japanese towards Peak 29. 1st to identify whether Dakura exists and is perhaps same as Peak 29; probably whole range acclimatizing in Peak 29 and one of these is Dakura about same altitude as Peak 29.

  6-8 really good climbers. De Graeff and Noordyk were not so experienced at high altitudes. Total 8 high climbers.

  No oxygen; have equipment for 4 camps
  Summit end April, early May.


  1970 Netherlands Expedition

  Sponsor: Royal Netherland Alpine
           Amb + Neth-Nepal Friendship Assoc
  Firm:    private members

  March-May 1970
  Route: Arughat-Runiket-Barchan-Samagaon (if res permitted)-Dakara.
  Nima Dorje = sirdar and member

  Leader:
  1) Johannes Adolf Noordyk 
     born 16 March, 1918 in Rio
     Pediatric surgeon, medicine faculty Rotterdam
     Waagdam 30, Warmand


expid: LSHR70101
peakid: LSHR
year: 1970
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Siegfried Aeberli
sponsor: Tyrolean Lhotse Expedition 1970
ascent1: 1st
bcdate: 1970-04-04
smtdate: 1970-05-12
smttime: 1230
termdate: 1970-05-22
campsites: BC(04/04,5220m),C1(06/04,5900m),C2(18/04,6700m),C3(28/04,7200m),Smt(12/05)
routememo:
  Aeberli - 25 May 70

  All arrived today ex-Lukla except Garbeis and Rolf Walter, all well. Exactly same route as Japanese. Found Japanese fixed ropes and oxygen bottles (not to use). 3000m fixed ropes from 5800m to 7300m

  Very difficult last 400m ridge without fixed rope at this altitude - only man to summit.

  From C4 7600m to 8000m without oxygen and to summit (8400m) with oxygen.

  Only about 5 days good weather, others snow every day. From Lhotse Shar to main summit too far and not enough Sherpas for job and ridge too difficult unless big expedition and plenty of good weather. 

  Larcher and Sherpa reached 8200m and then oxygen mask of Larcher frozen and one man not able go alone because friends, etc and would have used rope very last 40m very steep part.


  Shah, MFA - 19 May 70

  13 May Larcher and Sherpa Sirdar Urkien attempted to reach summit, but on the way at 8200m found some difficulty with oxygen masks and were therefore unsuccessful.

  22 May leaving base camp.


  Liaison Officer - filed 18th.

  BC - 5220m,  4 April
  C1 - 5900m,  6 April   
  C2 - 6700m, 18 April  
  C3 - 7200m, 28 April


  Shah, MFA - 23 March 70

  Lhotse expedition reached Jiri on 20 March. Hoped leave Jiri on 22nd and reach Namche on 30th March


  Siegfried Aeberli - 14 March 70

  Leader and 1 other arrived  KTM one week ago. 4 more arrived today; 1 more Dr. Gert Garbeis arrives next Saturday.

  Leave KTM Tuesday - by road to Lamosangu and then trek in - reach base about 18 days with change of porters in Namche - 100 porters.

  9 Sherpas including Sirdar Urkien Sherpa.

  Leader has been here with Erwin Schneider twice but no high climbing in Nepal before.

  Base 5500m on Imja Glacier behind Island Peak. From south side over East Ridge to summit 8383m; highest camp perhaps 8000m; expect 5 advance camps. 3000m of fixed rope to fix.

  Japanese tried route in 1965 and reached 8000m - very difficult and very steep rock and snow.


  Letter from Siegfried Aeberli -  April 30, 1970

  We are glad to let you know that we established Base Camp since 4/4/70.

  We have in our team seven Sherpas, one cook, one kitchen boy who advanced because of his excellent service to permanent cook, as well as a few wood cutters and last not least one mailrunner.

  On April 6 we reached Camp I at an altitude of 5900m. There we built a comfortable ice cage plus one tent. 

  Camp II is on a high of 6700m, the way up is extremely difficult and steep and on the whole route we have fixed ropes. Also there we have fixed ropes. Also there we have one ice-hole and one tent. There is a rope around the entrance of the tent, because the place is extremely exposed.

  The way to C3 is at least as difficult as to C2 and already fixed with ropes. The camp itself will be establisehd within a few days at a high of about 7100m.

  All the seven members are at present in the Base Camp and except one, who has slightly frozen his toes, but he is recovering.

  Besides that we live almost upon fresh yak meat, which we get from a yak killed at BC.

  The weather is until noon time always excellent, but in the afternoon usually snowing. The nights are not so cold; at Camp I we once measured 14 Degrees below O (Celcius).


expid: ANN170101
peakid: ANN1
year: 1970
route1: S Face
nation: UK
leaders: Chris Bonington
sponsor: Mt. Everest Foundation
ascent1: 3rd
countries: W Germany, USA
approach: Pokhara->Modi Khola->Annapurna Sanctuary (BC)
bcdate: 1970-03-28
smtdate: 1970-05-27
smttime: 1430
termdate: 1970-06-01
accidents: Ian Clough killed by falling serac
campsites:
  TempBC(28/03,3360m),BC(4420m),C1(02/04,4875m),C2(06/04,5335m),C3(13/04,6125m),C4(23/04,6550m),C5(09/05,6930m),C6(19/05,7315m),Smt(27/05)

routememo:
  Bonington, Press conf - 7 June 70

  In mountains in general and Himalayas in particular always risk of objective danger; chance of that ice tower collapsing in 2 minutes in 24-hour period tens of thousand to one.

  Summit success very fine climbing especially as did it without oxygen bad conditions high wind and wind-blown snow; but all Himalayan climbs are team efforts and this one very much so; route forged by all climbers at one time or other and doing climbing at higher standard than any other time in Himalayas; load carriers under greater strain than lead climbers: Estcourt and Boysen burnt themselves out and had no chance to go to summit; very high level of cooperation amongst their team that got us to the top plus Don Whillans and Dougal Haston's final push to the top.

  Most high-standard climbing by Boysen and Estcourt on ice ridge leading into middle of face; took one month to climb ridge from 20,600 ft high standard climbing.

  13,000 ft of fixed rope used - more than any other expedition.


  Whillans - 7 June 70

  It's nice to get down, about as tough as expected; Difficulties were all right, but we had break of bad weather doubts about getting to top because of the weather. If hadn't decided to skip C7 might not have conquered summit; had idea when left C6 but didn't know was feasible.

  Dougal Haston: I thought it was going to be hard (not to climb that route) and it was tough.

  Whillans at Machhapuchhare base camp funny looking trekker around; looked out from tent in moonlight and something strong moving around: watched for 1/2 hour (too cold go out); could have been but looked more like monkey type thing.


  Frost - 5 June 70

  Put in fixed ropes essentially on whole face to reascending and carrying loads relatively easy technically, main problem is the breathing and the cold. The leaders had it easier because they were carrying lesser loads. Burke and I spent 5 days fixing rope on rock bend which most technical as for as rock climbing was concerned with Mick doing most of leading and I did the belaying. This of medium difficulty as far as alpine climbing goes. We went off to the left so large part of this climb was on ice fields and gullies. The weakness in the rock band oxygen not up because weakness of same members who got sick (Burke early, Lambert, Chris) plus Estcourt and Boysen weakened by climbing and Sherpas sick and not proficient enough to go above C4. Boysen and Estcourt did great deal carrying while Whillans and Dougal favoured and did little load-carrying and went down to base from rest more times than anyone else - were favoured because going strong and Don has good mountain judgement and good team together whom you couldn't pry apart; this hard on others who didn't enjoy donkey work of load carrying and also wanted enjoyment of route finding (especially Estcourt and Boysen) which meant psychologically had hard work.

  2 times I was out in from 1) with Chris on ice ridge just above C3 above 20,000 ft 3) with Mick on rock band.

  With Chris just above C3 we originally tried push route straight up ice ridge. Shape of ridge had carriers and mushroom shape from with steps in steep places; most difficult pitch I had to lead was up near vertical ice up a steps; plunge ice axe into ice and snow down at angle; had snow picket (piece of angle iron 3 feet long with point at one end) and this I had in other hand. I climbed up section 25 feet nearly vertical and "I made it without felling off" (Chris belaying). Got a good ice axe in and it gives you a handle on the mountain; not whole weight on it; kick points crampons in higher and through up. After we'd moved on up this ice ridge, Don and Dougal came up to C3 and talked us into moving route traversing across to left and not over ridge.

  Frost left C6 at 4:00 am. Mick's speed of movement in preparations showed not feeling well and he left 4:30. Frost reached top fixed ropes 8:00 am. Tremendously windy up there; all while I'd been climbing great wind; had only mittens and fingers getting cold and feet getting cold. Now at beginning of summit snowfield at 25,000 ft. At maximum went to 25,200 ft and when I got to this point I started to lose my resolve before I'd been moving mechanically up the fixed ropes - view had improved and wanted to take photos, resting and moving up slowly and took 1 hour to decide to take off mittens to take pix; alone without moral support and summit already reached; stayed 3 hours in this area, took some pix (even changing film) and collected some rock specimens; decided at one point to go for top but knee-deep snow and increasing winds. So about 11:00 turned back I was quite tired and when got back to C6 at 12:00 Chris quite relieved to learn I'd got back (Chris at C4 talking to Burke at C6).

  Burke started at 4:30; quite strong wind blowing down gully and his fingers which had gotten quite cold day before gave him concern again; went only several feet vertically when cold turned him back; out of camp only about 1 hour.

  Don and Dougal had quite strong winds on their summit day too. Needed 2 pair heavy wool to keep their fingers warm. Don leading whole way for first time; had some difficulty on rock just below summit, didn't stay on summit long because of wind.

  Too much suffering on these big mountains. I want to keep climbing but this high altitude is another thing (he's quite affected by Clough death and he too now feels he has had enough; that sealed the case as far his coming on another big expedition). 


  Thompson - 4 June 70

  Chris, Boysen, Burke, Thompson and Kent reached Pokhara afternoon 3rd June; all rest will reach Pokhara today.

  Last day on mountain, 3 in C3 on 29th night (Clough, Thompson and Lambert) and packed up and pushed load down steep gully down almost to C2; went down leaving C3 about 8 am. Thompson and Clough picked up polyethylene bundle and pulled it down almost to C2 for 3 Sherpas ex-C1 to collect. Clough and Thompson (ahead of weak Lambert) went on down with only personal gear; just below C2, saw 3 Sherpas coming up towards them: route passes beneath quite a long ice cliff which we were frightened of early in expedition because was over hanging then, but overhanging bit fell off one morning. We heard it go about a month ago. Fortunately no one was there - didn't see a danger point, but quite a way above cliff were some quite large ice pinnacles; one big pinnacle fell from 300m above and struck Clough. "We had just turned down away from the cliff we heard this pinnacle from high above start to come down." By this time Sherpas and Clough and Thompson almost met; "was 3 or 4 paces in front of me and my reaction when I heard the noise I turned round and rushed back few paces and threw myself down at the foot of the ice cliff. Clough had been that few paces further on. Sherpas said he didn't seem to react at all but I think he tried to run away from the slope which is what 3 Sherpas did as well and they just got away from it; it stopped surprisingly short. It was a very big ice avalanche and the whole lot came over this cliff straight over the top of me. All the big blocks of ice had same momentum and landed away from cliff and it was only smaller pieces and powder that fell on me. I was buried by all this by perhaps a foot of it. I thought I had it, all went dark when all avalanche was coming down; then it got light and the noise stopped. I suppose it had gone on for 40 secs then when I got up after it and when I looked where this slope had been below me it was just a mass of blocks of ice. I shouted for Ian to see if he had survived and the Sherpas answered so I knew the Sherpas were all right. Then I started searching through al the debris and I found Ian's body sticking out from under a block of ice: The 3 Sherpas came up; we dug away at the block of ice but it was obvious that Ian was dead and then I sent one the Sherpas up to get Dave Lambert, the doctor, and it was 20 minutes or half hour before he arrived; when he arrived, once he was there, I and one of the Sherpas ran down to base camp to take the news to base camp. On the way to base camp, I went through C1 and sent Sherpas ripped old tent and body wrapped in tent and carried down and manouvered through difficult icefall and reached base in evening. Next morning close to 8 am at base, a grassy hollow and just above it a small cliff and Ian had used this cliff to teach TV team and Sherpas various rock climbing techniques so "we buried him on the grassy slope just at the foot of that crag." Chris said a few words about Ian and Tom Frost said a prayer; porters had made wreath of blue alpine flowers on top of grave. Pasang Kami put white Buddist scarf over body in grave; Sherpas built cairn of stones at head of body with wooden cross standing amongst stones. Sherpas also used pack hammer to cut inscription at bottom of cliff "Ian Clough killed 30 May 1970" and Tibetan inscription.

  Tom Frost got to C7's intended site. Burke had already turned back after 200-300 feet from C6. Frost got just to top of fixed ropes. Burke's feet getting numb from extreme cold. Tom maybe didn't intend to go to summit but were high winds very cold.

  Boysen "tremendous long arms, sliding along like a spider" carrying loads up fixed-roped face above C4.

  Don and Dougal never used oxygen at all. Chris at last used oxygen sometime and carries from C5 to C7 after pleurisy; people had servings of O2 occasionally for we had medical sets at camps, but no one except Chris climbed with oxygen hooked up.

  Don and Dougal lived for 3 days at C1 on instant porridge mixed with hot water. Kendal Mint Cane (sugar with mint flavouring - really sweet) like drinking distilled water from your car battery Don said). On 28th someone got Frost or Burke to them with more food. "Don and Dougal never touched the stuff; they just used whiskey".

  We have dead how appetites diminished with altitude, but we especially steady load carriers just ate and ate - Thompson

  1) Olives and Austrian 
     smoked cheese
  2) bread baked at base camp (1 week old at least)
  3) thick onion soup with pork-fat fried croutons
  4) fried pork, fried new potatoes and freeze dried peas 
  5) fruit salad with cream
  6) fried Xmas pudding with whiskey
  7) coffee

  Was enough high altitude food for other week provided food could have been gotten to them but for one week couldn't climb up because of snow conditions. 


  27 May, 8 am (wireless from ASFE)

  Summit bid still delayed by weather conditions. More snow has fallen in last 2 days then on whole expedition. Today looks clear but there are high winds on the face - Haston and Whillans will again attempt today to get up to site of C7 at 25,300 ft and pitch tent they will then return to camp. Tomorrow intention is for them to make second journey to C7 with food camera and radio and then wait until conditions allow to go go for summit. Frost and Burke to supply C6 from C5 and then possibly attempt 2nd summit bid food on mount enough for 4 or 5 days almost out of base camp. Whole effect is one of delay in return on aircraft Pokhara 7 or 8.

  Despite Whillans and Haston frostbite is carried on 24 May both are well, hungry but optimistic and happy to sit out.


  GB Shah, MFA - 12 May 70

  Annapurna South Face Expedition

  May 11 Bonington forced to return to base camp with pleurisy; will have to rest at least 4-5 days. Sirdar Pasang Kami ill with amoebic dysentery which affecting some climbers and local porters. In meantime, Whillans and Haston returned to (base) today to work their way back up to rock band where Burke and Frost are now leading route. It is hoped Burke and Frost will have reached halfway point of very difficult 1500-foot rock band and found site for C6 by the time Whillans and Haston take over from them to lead final assault.

  On May 11 23,000 ft has been reached, but all morale is high and every effort is being made for next phase of huge climb.


  JOM Roberts - 8 May 70

  Rock band - over 2,000 ft in altitudes.

  C6 will be on rock band, once route made and ropes fixed, probably one camp will be enough (in middle of band somewhere) or perhaps a camp above ice cliff at very base of band. Minimum of 2 camps above base.

  Success will now depend on hoped for well before monsoon begins about end of May.


  ASFE - 8 May 70

  5 May C5 established at 22,400 ft by Don Whillans and Dougal Haston. Camp is 350 ft below the rock band which most exacting task for it is hoped to climb the lower part of rock band without oxygen and conserve oxygen for use at C6 and above.

  Weather is starting to deteriorate with more clouds in the morning and heavy snow in afternoon.

  Bonington is now resting at base camp after a 15 days spell on the face. Mike Burke, Nick Estcourt and Tom Frost are in support of the lead climbers who today are attempting the ice cliff between C5 and the rock band.

  Logistically the move of ration and climbing equipment up the mountain is going well; although only half load can be taken above C3 same of the climbers are beginning to feel the effects of prolonged stages above 20,000 ft, but generally morale is high.


  JOMR - 21 April 70

  Left base camp 14th; C3 20,500 ft established and expedition is now stocking camps.
  Difficult rock band approaching 23,000 ft.

  Weather normal pattern fine am. snow afternoon.


  Kent, Pokhara - 31 March

  Bonington party moving from camp at Machhapuchhare side to base camp proper near head of glacier today. Will establish C1 on region tomorrow.

  See Kit with Kent and Clough reached Pokhara at 10:00 am today will leave Pokhara for base camp 2 April with 220 porters. All well.


  From ASFE

  Temporary BC established at Machhapuchhare site. Still heavy snow, but hope we shall be able to establish permanent base when rear party arrive.


  Kent - 26 March 70

  ASFE Chomoro 25th night met Thompson at Ghandrung on 24th/25th Thompson arrive Pokhara 26 am.


  Bonington - 18 March 70

  About 10,000 ft - face but exact height not really known, so expedition's first job is to survey face and learn heights of such features as head of ice shoulder, beginning of rock band, etc.

  JOMR to Pokhara 19 March am back by 20th April; not to get on face at all; will leave Pokhara with party on 22nd but many stop in Gurung villages.


  Bonington - 14 March 70

  Similar challenge to Japanese facing; ours more distance at high altitude climbing but theirs at higher altitudes; certainly greatest challenge any of us. 


  Kent - 5 March 70

  Boat arriving now Bombay 10-15 March; so advance party of 6 members, 2 Sherpas and TV ITN team of 4 + 100 porters to take heavy local purchase food and kerosene; several tents and same kit coming out by air freight to make this possible.

  + 1500 lbs by RAF due 16 March party to be leader by deputy leader Don Whillans and Mike Thompson and 2 Sherpas will leave Pokhara 15-16 March with recon party to find suitable base camp site.

  Main party with 200 porters leave Pokhara 4-5 April.

  Advance party lead by Chris Bonington to leave Pokhara 21 March (Bonington arrives KTM alone 15th rest arrives KTM 18th (except Clough). 

  Here today: Kelvin Kent, Mike Thompson, Don Whillans, Dave Lambert


expid: BAUD70101
peakid: BAUD
year: 1970
route1: E Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Yasuhiko Iso
sponsor: Keio University Baudha Expedition
ascent1: 1st
smtdate: 1970-05-02
smttime: 1045
campsites: BC(3800m),C1,C2,C3(6150m),Smt(02/05)
accidents: 1 member killed in fall
routememo:
  Iso - 17 May 70

  Iso and Okabe arrive today; other 4 leave today from Auraghat and arrive KTM about 20-21st May [actually arrived KTM 19 May].

  Inoue is now well and Iso can now eat but will want more attention in Japan.

  Koje Chujjo (Itaya's full brother) to meet Iso and return Japanese about 20th together. This brother also climber but has not climbed in Himalayas; lives in Tokyo, father and mother live in Ichikawa.

  Very steep ice slope. 23rd April tried reach summit, but at about 6000m slipped 150m to West Face - ice hard and very steep. Itaya lost footing and pulled other 2 am same rope and all fell 150m at 10:00 am. All 3 injured with Itaya alive and conscious, but badly squeezed by rope 6000m summit slip. C3 6150m on east side and slipped on west side so needed climb up to reach camp on other face.

  23rd April 3 climbed 40 meters by 3 pm and stayed night there. Iso lost one crampon, Inoue lost his ice axe and also very tired and in shock. Spent night in ice cave without sleeping bad but had bivouac tent.
   
  24th 7:00 started climb, reached 6095m Itaya again slipped (again tied to other 2, this time with 2 ropes) and his ropes came untied and Itaya fell 100m into crevasse and dead. Iso and Inoue very tired and could not go down to him; 3:00 pm he fell and other could not see him.

  Iso and Inoue to C3 at 7:00 pm to tell others; weather bad so other party to search only on 30th.

  2nd May summit reached 10:45 am. Left C3 at 5:00 am and used same route via north summit and returned to C3.


  Noordyk - 4 May 1970

  3 members on 23rd and 1 slipped and pulled all 3. Stayed in hole in snow for night and next morning tried to reach 3 but again all 3 fell, 1 rope caught on ice gendarme and 1 fell out of rope and disappeared; other 2 hurt (leader Iso 1 severe frostbite and other breastbone fracture). Will come via Trisuli next week. Had only 3 Sherpas and 7 members, so half expedition out of action and Dutch lent 5 Sherpas.


  Shah of MFA - 7 April 70

  Keio University expedition reached Jagat safely with 4 days more to reach base camp, according to message dated 2 April.


  Iso, Keio Expedition

  All 7 members now in KTM; Iso and 4 on today.

  Leave KTM 25 March by truck to Trisuli Bazar and thence 2 weeks to base camp Chuling Khola about 3800m.

  Not same route as British which was South Face; ours is east side with 40 meter icefall and steep snow slope requiring 800m fixed rope.

  Summit by 10th May via 3 camps above base.

    
  Inoue - 15 March

  Keio University. 2 members Toyoabi Inoue, Kiyoyasu Shibata arrive 14 March
  leader 16 - TG 311
  +2 Yashiko Iso

  Leave KTM 23-5 March by truck to Trisuli Bazaar.


expid: ANN370101
peakid: ANN3
year: 1970
route1: NW Ridge from SW
nation: Japan
leaders: Eiko Miyazaki
sponsor: Ladies Climbing Club of Tokyo
ascent1: 2nd
bcdate: 1970-04-03
smtdate: 1970-05-19
smttime: 1445
termdate: 1970-05-26
campsites:
  BC(03/04,3750m),C1(08/04,4350m),C2(11/04,4800m),C3(24/04,5300m),C4(28/04,5900m),C5(18/05,6800m),Smt(19/05)

routememo:
  Junko Tabei

  South Face route very difficult because many crevasses and hard ice wall; no one attempted before so we don't know route.

  C2 to C3 - many crevasses and short icefall.
  C4 to C5 - very steep blue ice face and mixed with unstable rock; this most 
             difficult part climbing wall.

  Members climbed 18th May from C4 to C5; very tired and very late to reach C5 at 5:00 pm (left C4 11:00 am). 17th very heavy snow and took long time to repack loads to carry up). Felt sure would go to summit next day. "I think I must go to summit - one member [Miyazaki] had headache and very tired so not able to go to summit, but Hirakawa and I very strong and must go to summit. All members had worked hard to enable us to get so high and we had to succeed". 

  19th May not so difficult: very long snow field and strong wind and no oxygen, but not so difficult as 18th May. Not so tired on 19th but my steps very slow I thought on 19th May. One Sherpa (sirdar Tenzing Girmi), then Tabei, then Hirakawa finally other Sherpa Pasang Nima all way from C5 to summit.

  About 3-5 meters from summit I took my husband's picture from my pocket and showed him summit; my husband is also climber (he plans to came to Dhaulagiri I in 1972).

  Plan for leader and other member Sato to go to summit, but leader not well and weather not good, so plan abandoned.

  I want to come again to Nepal on higher peak, 8000m peak - Everest even. 


  Ono - 6 June 70

  Arrived today:
  Hirakawa
  Manita
  Ono
  Hiraro
  Urushibara

  Others hope came today or tomorrow's if seats available.
  Ono went to C2 but not overnight, was in base. 
  Highest camp C5 on col. 


  Hirakawa

  Felt she could stand on top because of team work of all members; didn't have any feeling, but she did her duty; not very tired.

  19 May reached summit 2:45 pm, she and Tabei and 2 Sherpas on rope. From C4 6800m; left camp 8:15 am. A little difficult this day because several crevasses and steep slope of ice and snow with some rock. Most difficult route from C4 to C5 because of blue ice face which required fixed rope all way from 6100 to 6800m. 4 members and 4 Sherpas put in this fixed rope in 9 days. C5 site reached 16 May because bad weather prevented movement same days. Hirakawa did same this route making and this not so very difficult. 

  Japanese Alps in winter time more difficult than Annapurna III, she feels. Weather very changeable in winter in Japan and much snow this 1st attempt for summit by expedition. C5 site food and tent dumped by 2 Sherpas 18 May. 3 Sherpas and 3 members Tabei, Miyazaki and Hirakawa brought one more tent up and set up C5 where they all stayed. Spent nights 18 and 19 May in C5. Bad weather prevented 2nd summit attempt. 19th May 2 Sherpas to C4 and on 20th May all down from C5. 21st May 2 Sherpas up to C5 and brought down tents.

  Left base camp 31st May bringing down equipment and waiting for coolies.

  Yamazaki went to C2 mid-May, really well; all others well also. No accident, no other serious illness.


  Miyazaki - 15 March 70

  All baggage arrived 14th. Leave 20th in charters to Pokhara (this not fixed).
   
  Leave Pokhara 21 or 22; up Modi Khola to base camp in 1 week at 3800m south of point 12,430 ft, then north on East Annapurna Glacier (U of Annapurna Glacier Gurung map).

  C5 on ridge between Gangapurna and Annapurna III at about 6800m and another camp at 7300m on ridge.


  Eika Miyazaki - 11 March 70

  Also on  Eiko Hirano
           Reiko Sato
           Hiroko Hirakawa

  3 other members on 17 or 18 KTM and leave KTM 20th. Equipment are 12th 5000 kg.

  2 members in 1st summit assault team; if conditions good 2nd and even 3rd team
  southern route from east Annapurna Glacier. Base on this glacier 3800m. Approach peak from southern face. Very difficult: avalanche danger and very steep 450m high ice wall. "We try our best to succeed".

  Summit attempt 10-15 May and departure from mountain 20 May.


  Mrs Tabei - 7 March 70

  2 members of Ladies Tokyo Climbing Club arrive today
  Leader arrive March by Thai
  Dr. and 2 members 16 March
  Equipment arrive CCU today
  10 days from today to Pokhara
  9 Sherpas, 100-120 porters; 1 week to base
  1st base camp 1 April 3800m 
  May 10 summit from south side (Modi Khola) from 6 camps. 
  Last camp 7200m
  Summit 7577m
  Leader - Miss Eiko Miyazaki 
  Nepal 3 years ago and climbed Kailash.
  Snow View or Shanker Hotel


expid: MAKA70101
peakid: MAKA
year: 1970
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Masao Kumazawa, Yohei Ito
sponsor: Makalu Expedition 1970
ascent1: 4th
approach: Dharan->Sedua->Shipton La->Barun Glacier (BC)
bcdate: 1970-03-24
smtdate: 1970-05-23
smttime: 1910
termdate: 1970-05-29
achievment: 1st ascent of Makalu SE Summit
campsites:
  BC(24/03,4700m),C1(27/03,5300m),C2(30/03,5900m),C3.ABC(01/04,6500m),C4(24/04,7100m),C5(11/05,7500m),C6(18/05,7950m),Smt(23/05)

routememo:
  Dr. Hara - 20 June 70

  Goto and Hashimoto in Biratnagar. Goto to KTM after 1 week, others not know; attending to baggage to Japan via CCU

  Arrive today Kurazawa and Ito gone already; neither ever reached base camp.

   Hasegawa
   Ashiya
   Ikuta
   Yoshihara
   Koshiyara
   Asami 
   Ichikawa

  We as Japanese are ashamed of Everest Expedition; weakest party ever to Everest; social structure of Japanese the cause.

  Americans failed because bad weather. Everest and Makalu very good weather this year. Used 100 of 120 cylinders. Near top summiters supply exhausted and from 8300m up none left; spent 65 days to climbs Makalu. 20 days more than schedule and food, fuel and oxygen not enough.

  SE Ridge very long and had very difficult place where black gendarme was more difficult then we expected; took 18 days to push way up this and move above it.

  C5 - 7500m

  Even if weather fine, Americans could not succeed because they said black gendarme rather easy; we got to black gendarme and tried and found it more difficult then Americans said; our members very strong and they had fighting spirit and good team work. Climbed black gendarme around it and half directly up it.

  Another reason for a success, our Sherpas very good and a very strong.

  Hara 22nd to NDH and arrive Japanese 24th. Expedition dispersing in KTM.

  23 May weather bad; that last chance for expedition to succeed. Goto not going to climb Dhaulagiri I this fall.


  Onoe - 16 June 70

  All others come tomorrow, Onoe and Tani today.

  21st May Goto and Kawaguchi night out; very strong wind and route very difficult rock and ice. On SE Ridge all the way.

  Left camp 4:00 am and reached about 80-100 below summit; stopped for bivouac 6:30 pm (biv on snowfall little bit down); no tent, no sleeping bag.

  22nd May - sunglasses of both broken during nights bivouac so 6:00 am started to return to C6 (no attempt to go up on 22nd). 6:30 pm arrived C6. Ozaki and Tanaka C6 came up to lead them down at 3:30 pm at 7900m.
   
  23rd Ozaki and Tanaka left C6 2:30 am; reached summit 7:10 pm. No C7 because route too difficult to take loads there.

  Goto and Kawaguchi fixed ropes on 19th and 20th and not intended be summiters; plan for others to come up to C6 but they ill and unable reach C6; also Tanaka and Ozaki didn't reach C6. 21st as planned so Goto and Kawaguchi attacked.

  Summiters couldn't take photos because shutter frozen; stayed on summit 20 minutes; returned to C6 at 2:00 am 24th.

  Kawaguchi little frostbite 2 fingers but already healed. All others in good health; no accidents, no serious illness.

  All members thought not succeed because very late and route very difficult; before C6 established thought this, but "when they establish C6 then Ok, we succeed."

  Most leave Nepal after 2-3 days; 2-3 to stay 1 week.


  Shah, MFA - 2 June 70

  23rd May Najima Tanaka and Yuichi Ozaki reached summit at 19:10 hrs from SE Ridge route. Celebrating success 28th May.

  Leaving base 29th May if weather and coolies Ok; reach Dharan in 16 days.

  On 18 May Goto and Yonosuke Kawaguchi established C6 at 14 hours at 7750m. Programme had been to put this camp at 8000m, but too difficult to put camp there so at 7750m.

  Goto and Kawaguchi attempted 21 May to reach summit but unable and also unable to return to C6 and spent night out and on 22 May they tried again for summit but again unsuccessfully because of snowblindness.

  23 May summiters left C6 at 02:00 hr - took 17 hours 10 minutes to reach summit; put flags of Japanese and Nepal on summit.


  Makalu Expedition - 16 Feb 70

  All members now here. Leave 20 Feb by air to Biratnagar on RNAC regular flight and trek from Dharan. Base 4700m 15 March. SE Ridge, the route once tried by Siri expedition 1954.

  Difficulties expected 7000-8000m many difficult rock and ice gendarme including 250m high black gendarme at end of summit assault. April base and 6 camps; 8100-8200m highest camp.

  Advance base begin April at 6500m (C3) with C4 just below gendarmes and C5 and C6 above them.

  Return KTM end of May unless 2nd attempt on summit mid-May.


  20 Feb 70

  Goto and Ozaki already in Dharan arranging porters. Dr. Ito comes only in April (arrive KTM 6 April). 16 to Biratnagar today.


  Japanese Makalu Expedition

  Sponsor: Japanese Alpine Club
  Firm: Tokai Section of JAC (office C/O Hara Hospital 3-17, Wakatake-cho Chikusa-ku, Nagoya)

  Members 
  Director-General: Masao Kurazawa
  born May 4 1904

  Leader Yohei Ito
  born Feb 5 1923
  DM, D Med. Sc, Dir and Exec
  Laboratory of Virology, Aichi Cancer Center


expid: ANN170102
peakid: ANN1
year: 1970
route1: N Face
nation: UK
leaders: Bruce Niven
sponsor: British Army Mt. Association
ascent1: 2nd
countries: Nepal
approach: Pokhara->Kali Gandaki->Mristi Khola
smtdate: 1970-05-20
smttime: 1100
campsites: BC(4510m),C1(5300m),C2(16/04,5975m),C3(12/05,6700m),C4(16/05,7130m),C5(19/05,7400m),Smt(20/05)
routememo:
  Henry Day - 10 June 70

  We had certain advantages: French [not?] acclimatized; tremendous psycho-advantage to make 2nd ascent. Had lot of time by coming earlier but when got to base area so much snow took till end April to get last load to base.

  Used oxygen sleeping last night but C5 (about level of French highest camp) and next day to summit. Did in 3 hours what French took 8 hours to summit. From lower camps observers impressed with speed of climb although Day and Owens not aware moving fast. When turned out pockets, etc., I found I had taken 6 pairs mittens to the top. Fine weather, best bit on mountain: calm high up.

  Sun 14 to NDH. Tues 16 RAF to Singapore and almost 1 week there and disperse to various units.


  Niven - 7 June 70

  Owens very badly shocked and bruised but apparently not broken; both he and Summerton (who was also with Owens in avalanche) all right now. All well and coming KTM 9th.

  Between C3 and C4 tremoundous ice climbing, vertical ice slopes, most difficult part after route decision. 

  Base 14,800 ft
  C1   17,400 ft
  C2   19,600 ft
  C3   22,000 ft
  C4   23,400 ft
  C5   24,300 ft
  Top  26,545 ft


  Shah, MFA - 19 May 19 70

  Sitnep 19 May: C4 established on top of sickle glacier 24,000 ft on 16 May. If weather favourable should make summit attempt on 20 May. Plan for return being made maybe in Pokhara by 5 June.


  Tim Taylor - 6 April 70

  Sick about 3 days ago. Did carry to Mristi Khola and return camp on 24th April. Had bad sleeping night coughing and very fast breathing.

  3 members and 3 Sherpas in Mristi Khola and in next few days with search for base approach; route nothing like so bad as made out by French. Straightforward path to Mristi Khola.

  Jones advises not serious now but was very serious in Switzerland last Dec. and Dr Jones advises not over 10,000 ft in next year - hospital 14 days.


  Niven - 11 May 11 70

  6 Sherpas and 2 RNA officers; air drop of rations.

  Rest of British members and Gorkhas expeditions arrive 16 March evening in Hercules; to be the transferred to smaller RAF aircraft and ferries to Pokhara couple days later.

  8-9 day approach march to base camp by end March. 16-17,000 ft at Mristi Khola head. Route about same as 1950 French (20th aniv). French established 5 camps and Niven expects about same, but not may have changed greatly and entirely new route may be necessary. If 2 British expeditions reach summit same time may descend by each others route. 2nd and 3rd week May for summit assault. Like to put 2 summit pairs on top or even more.

  Will use oxygen for sleeping but perhaps not while climbing.


  Kent - 5 March 5 70

  RAF Hercules C130 arrive KTM with all established team.
  Maj Bruce Niven
  Arrive 11th March
  Bristol Freighter to shuttle KTM-PKR 18 & 19 March
  Leave Pokhara 21 March with full team and 150 porters.


expid: EVER70101
peakid: EVER
year: 1970
route1: S Col (skiing)
nation: Japan
leaders: Yuichiro Muira
bcdate: 1970-03-23
smtdate: 1970-05-06
othersmts: Climbed Pokalde (POKA-701-01)
accidents: 6 Sherpas killed in Khumbu Icefall
termnote:
  Miura skied down from 8100m to South Col to set high altitude skiing record (did not try for summit)

campsites:
  BC(23/03,5350m),C1(04/04,6100m),C2(16/04,6450m),C3(18/04,6950m),C4(26/04,7400m),C5(27/04,7985m),xxx(06/05,8100m)

routememo:
  Miura and 4 today - more tomorrow. Main caravan leaves Namche today to KTM.

  5th night spent on South Col camp - slept well 8 hours on oxygen. On 6th had breakfast of Japanese fish, seaweed, Indian left Ovaltine. Collected oxygen tanks and parachute, skis (filed edges very sharp) helmet. Had to file and check all equipments in tent because wind so strong. 1 hr doing check and filing. Left tent at 9:00 made stone within which placed mirror because mountain is a lady so peak she can see herself.

  Also turned with his name signatures and names of fall members and 2 Sherpas, flags of Nepal and Japanese and Expo 1970.

  At South Col:
    Kato
    Yasuhisa
    Otaki
    Miura
    Ishiguro
    Girme Dorje
    Ang Pemba

  Finished Cairn in 30 minutes - done without oxygen also without oxygen put on equipment climbed 250m higher above South Col because good snow and wanted to ski down to South Col. Did ski from 8150m to S Col in 30 seconds in 5 turns in normal alpine skiing, snow condition excellent.

  Kato and Girme Dorje made starting spot below Geneva Spur, about 200m distance not altitude below South Col; came down by fixed rope since no snow and reached about 11:30 am.

  Amma vice leader at control center in 6800m Western Cwm with 7-page check list, but telemeter checked hero helmet strap, oxygen took valve; took almost hour complete check list.

  After check complete 30 seconds silent wait; also had reputation of wind and other condition favor from several camps with wind dying from 7900m altitude at 1:07 hours. Skiing slope correct length being checked now by scientists.

  First skiing: started slightly 30m east because wind coming from South Face; waiting for no wind condition. At 1:07 began; 5 or 6 seconds about 160 km hour speed about 200m distance from start, opened parachute (drag chute - stabilizer found inadequate). Parachute cut speed half so at 60-80/km/hr; then reached narrow spot where was great air turbulence; about 30 secs after start, realized slope narrowed by rocks; both slopes and from South Face one wind and another friend from Lhotse and winds tangled and made whirling. In this wind he skied 1 minute with alternate no parachute drag and then some drag. So to check breaking by ski edge but almost no effect (this also in this one minute). At entrance of Geneva Spur side and slope avalanche 40 degree. After passing narrow area, ice became very wavey and shifted direction slightly towards Everest South Face and noticed maybe to control speed very difficult; also noticed fallen rocks scattered about. So hit small stone and fell over after having skied 2 minutes 5-10 secs. Lost control and started skidding downwards. Hit rock at 7200m; fell down 100m towards crevasse and after 100m right ski fell off and he hit huge rock which slowed speed and after another nearly 200m and nearly unconscious. Found had stopped at about 150m before crevasse. Crevasse at narrowest 10 meters, but last year 2-3m; so this year could not have jumped crevasse and planned stop at crevasse and fixed rope fixed there and members there to help stop him.

  No pain when stopped, had padded life jacket and helmet. While skidding believed 99% would not survive. Believed had succeeded but lost life in process. To ski down from South Col is not just skiing but gamble with life; had skied almost all of expected 2:25. Could not get up: on ice and had only one ski; waved one ski pole to signal he's Ok. This his well-known fuj, and signal he's Ok. Slowly tried to bend over to remove left ski to used it to prevent more slipping. Meanwhile friends at crevasse and Mr Soga reached him after 20-30 minutes cutting steps with ice axe and made small space next to Miura while Miura getting off parachute which used as mattresses where Miura sat for nearly 45 minutes 1 hour while members fixed rope.

  Six Sherpas killed with Japanese skiers 5 April 70:
    Nima Norbu 42
    Nima Dorji 25 
    Tsering Tarkey 50
    Pasang 44
    Kunga Norbu 33
    Kami Tsering, porter 45


  Miura - 5 March 70

  20 member left yesterday for Lamosangu and waiting there now; 12 leave today for Lamosangu. All tomorrow am leave on foot; reach base about 28 March.

  Miura agrees Dyhrenfurth may be correct about above South Col and only "50-50" chance above South Col down - above South Col strong wind, very steep and rock out cropping from South Col down. "Hard to say" about success because truth regarding high altitudes effect on decision making and control.

  Special life jacket while skiing down protecting chest; 5 inches thick to protect very tough nylon chest. 

  Fiberglass helmet with earphones and microphone in oxygen mask. Talk to 3 stations (advance base camp and 2 stations in course) telling of winds direction and strength and snow conditions, his speed.

  From South Col steepest nearly 40 degrees to be started after 6 sec at 180 Km/hr - 200m of this 40 degrees and so 7 seconds after start 200 km/hr.

  Miura's fastest ever done 172 km/hr Italian CERVINIA (Mattenham glacier) 1964, so if Miura does 180 Km/hr will actually break world record.

  After 5 sec start will try pull cord on 1 parachute to prevent self going over 180/km by 6 sec.

  Red smoke will come from behind each ski boot making red trail to show progress (and weather fallen into crevasse).


  Japanese Ski Expedition - 25 Feb 70

  24 arrive today
  8 already here in Nepal) (including 1 in Birgunj)
  1 Ishihara arrive 28 some leave KTM 2 March most including Miura and Kato 3rd

  Tadano and Miura to the ski: same day following each 10 Km in 3 minutes.

  Japanese fiberglass ski and oxygen and 3 different parachutes (stabilizers of different size).

  End of April to do skiing.


  Kato of JSEE - 16 Feb 70

  1 other member K. Yasuhisa arrived 
  Staying Shanker now; when others came on 23 Feb, move to house next to Japanese embassy
  32 members to base - Shintaro Ishihara only to Kodari Road
  23 Feb - 2 members, 2 journalists and Kato again arrive

  27 members including Miura and Ishihara will take film of wedding. Leave KTM 3-5 March with 700 coolies from Kodari Road (baggage arrrive CCU part yesterday and here 26 or 27 Feb).

  Expect reach base camp about 25-28 March with at least 3 days acclimatization at Thyangboche.

  Maximum 2 months skiing and filming on Everest; if all goes well, 45 days sufficient.

  2 skiers only Muira and Tadano for skiing down very small oxygen cylinders; same as used by US jet fighters pilots for emergency use if ejection necessary - skier will need 3 cylinders size of tall beer bottle.

  Miura or Tadano will try reach 8500m and ski down as much as possible, to 6100m hopefully (6100m south C1 at top of icefall); on unbroken ski 8500m to South Col; rest at South Col; ski to 6800m of Lhotse Face; at least 1 day rest.
   
  7 movie cameras 75m cinemascope. Not bringing computer, too costly and too heavy. Telemetering of speed to control center in Western Cwm at C3 (6700m).


expid: ANN197402
peakid: ANN1
year: 1997
route1: E Face of Fang to Annapurna's SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Simone Moro
sponsor: Annapurna South Face Winter Expedition to Annapurna I
countries: Kazakhstan
approach: By helicopter->BC
bcdate: 1997-12-02
smtdate: 1997-12-25
termdate: 1997-12-26
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to fatal avalanche
campsites: BC(02/12,4100m),Deposit(06/12,4300m),ABC(12/12,5000m),C1(24/12,5500m),xxx(25/12,6300m)
accidents: Boukreev and Sobolev killed and Moro injured in fatal avalanche
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site from Annapurna South Face teams as per German Annapurna map
  Deposit on glacier
  ABC below East Face of Fang
  C1  on East Face of Fang due west of Tent Peak.

  Notes of interview with Moro - 29 Dec 97

  On 7th Dec, 3.7m new snowfall and a BC tent broken by it, so after that, rented 2 rooms in lodge very near BC and this was fell for 3 days. 11 Dec up to deposit camp to BC on 7th; more snow, safer spot; had decided could not use Bonington South Face route to ridge from Annapurna South and Fang to Anna I's summit. Slept 2 - 16th down to tiny village below Chomrong to rest from exertions from struggling against deep snow. 20 Dec returned to BC, 22nd to deposit camp, 23rd to ABC, 24th made C1, 25th started up face at 6:00 am to reach ridge. Moro climbed first, fixing rope, with Anatoli behind. Moro got to 6300m and rope supply almost finished so called down to Anatoli to bring more up; Anatoli was at 5900m and started up to Moro with Sobolev below him (maybe at 5700m); he was video filming.

  Team had watched face for avalanching for a number of days and seen none; now on 25th at 12:15 pm, Moro saw ice cornice had just fallen from the ridge at 6350m and was gathering snow as it broke into pieces and fell as an ice-and-snow avalanche 50m wide. Moro called warning to Anatoli and saw him run to his right (north) to dodge avalanche. Moro clung to fixed rope but fell at 12:30 pm with avalanche 700-800m and became unconscious, partly buried in snow; he opened eye at 12:37 pm, called for reply and no sign of Anatoli, Moro started down alone; "I tried to help but I am not God"; his injuries included eye swollen shut (eye itself not damaged), both hands badly burned by rope (tendon of one left finger cut by rope), legs and one arm painful, and took him six hours to reach BC alone after dark.

  Moro will go by helicopter today (29 Dec) to look for Anatoli and Sobolev but "I don't believe" they're alive. [Moro said on Tel. 27 Dec when asked if Anatoli was dead: "I cannot be sure because I do not find his body ... I believe, yes" that he must be dead. Temperature was -21 in tent after cooking in it at C1 on 25th)]. Moro wants to go inside C1 tent he left stocked with food etc. to see whether Anatoli might have managed to return there. [Helicopter flight that day could not reach BC because of low clouds].

  Anatoli was wearing green one-piece down suit; Sobolev wore red pants and blue jacked; both had many gold teeth.

  Anatoli had one brother and one sister still living, both parents and other siblings dead. "I never saw another person with such instinct for mountains;" his death is "big loss for mountain world"; he never went home from expedition without having reached some summit. His next plans were to go to Everest in Tibet in April '98, main summit of Xixa in May, in summer to Gasherbrum I and Nanga Parbat to finish all 8000ers (& to be first Asian to do so) and then organize his own commercial expeditions.

  * (without going to Fang's summit themselves)


  EAH notes of Khabibulin interview on 7 Jan 1998:

  Kazakh Army Sports Club sent 4-man search team to Nepal; they arrived KTM 1 Jan '98. Members had been on Kazakh Everest expedition to north side in spring '97; they were Rinat Khabibulin, Dmitri Mouravev, Sergei Ovsharenko and Andrei Molotov (these last three are professional climbers and summited Everest in '97).

  Two Sherpas were dropped by helicopter near BC on 31 Dec to try to reach C1 tent to see if anyone was inside, but were unable to reach C1. On 2 Jan, a small helicopter dropped Khabibulin at BC after overflying C1's silver tent at 5500m, and big helicopter carried the other 3 to Pokhara, from where on 3rd they landed at BC, left Molotov there and picked up Khabibulin and Phurba Sherpa and proceeded to C1 site, where it hovered at 8:00 am while up to 5600m, where there was a crevasse with a one-meter open gap and searched this 70m wide area; found no sign of a fall ending; tried to find here the rope Moro had fixed or equipment, but again found nothing. Back to C1 at 2:00 pm, but the searchers were not acclimatized to higher altitudes; they went to BC lodge, spent night there and returned to KTM.

  Anatoli's American friend Linda Wylie, 49, from Santa Fe, was in Kathmandu during these days and flew in helicopter that dropped Sherpas on 31st; she said she and Moro would return in early spring '98, when bodies could be visible, and bury them.


  Search again for Boukreev

  Arrive 5500m in helicopter 22 April 98 after Linda and staff dropped at Annapurna South and BC 4100m. R & Simone dropped out of chopper into deep heavy wet snow - stayed 2 hours there and could not reach bergschrund wanted to go to because avalanches off East Face of Annapurna South - very very dangerous and fled areas.

  Linda in Pokhara and on KTM 27-28 April with Rinat.


expid: AMAD97403
peakid: AMAD
year: 1997
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Christophe Profit
sponsor: Ama Dablam Expedition & Kangtega Expedition
ascent1: 230
countries: USA
bcdate: 1997-11-29
smtdate: 1997-12-07
smttime: 1100
termdate: 1997-12-09
campsites: BC(29/11,4500m),C1(03/12,5400m),Smt(07/12)
agency: Numbur Himal Treks
routememo:
  BC at normal site.
    
  30 Nov made C1 at 5700m and slept there with clients. 3 Dec again up and made C1 at 5400m at larger space for camp (all members again to C1). 4 Dec all up for acclimatization to 6000m and then decided climb too difficult for clients to go higher in alpine-style so down to BC on 4th Dec. 

  3 guides on 6 Dec 3:00 pm up to C1 at 5400m at 6:00 pm; 2:00 am on 7th all 3 to top at 11:00 am and down to BC 5:00 pm same day. It's a technical climb especially at yellow tower without fixed ropes. Clients tired and this was a good experience for them (have climbed together in Alps). Left BC 9 Dec but arrived Lukla on 14th only because yaks could not reach BC through snow and spent 2 days at Thyangboche during snowfall.

  Decided not to go to Kangtega becauses too much snow - plan to go next year, perhaps in spring.


expid: DHA197401
peakid: DHA1
year: 1997
nation: France
leaders: Jean Christophe Lafaille
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Team went only as far as Pokhara. Heavy snowfall at Jomsom cancelled flights and snow conditions proved very bad. They reported abandonment of climb in Ministry of Tourism on 2 December and left for France, saying would return to KTM 2 February to try to climb then, but did not return.


expid: AMAD97401
peakid: AMAD
year: 1997
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Jim Williams
sponsor: Winter 1997 Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 229,231,232
countries: Canada, UK
bcdate: 1997-11-26
smtdate: 1997-12-06
termdate: 1997-12-15
accidents: Slight frostbite (Hackett, Pappas and Sullivan); Hart maybe more serious
agency: Himalayan Nature
campsites:
  BC(26/11,4600m),ABC&Depot(30/11,5500m),C1(02/12,5770m),C2(04/12,6030m),C3(06/12,6300m),Smt(06,08,12/12)

routememo:
  1st summit team went to top from C2 and down to C3, which had been pitched while they were going for summit, at 6:30 pm. 

  2nd team of Williams, Hart, Pemba Tshering and Nima Tashi went for top but in strong wind. Nima Tashi gave up climb while other three waited in C3 and again for top. Hart turned back with cold toes while Williams and Pemba Tashi continued to summit and slept on C3. 9th snowfall kept Williams, Hart and Pemba Tashi in C3 an extra night and down to C1 on 10th. 

  Final summit bid by Sullivan, Corfield and Pappas up from C3 on 12th at 10:00 am and on top only at 6:00 pm because Pappas very slow and guide Sullivan unable to assess the danger of continuing late; descended to C3 2:00 am of 13th. Athans, Sullivan and Williams were paid to guide them by other members.


expid: AMAD97402
peakid: AMAD
year: 1997
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Miguel Angel Vidal
sponsor: Sanga Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Italy
bcdate: 1997-11-27
smtdate: 1997-12-05
termdate: 1997-12-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6025m due to unstable weather and lack of strength
campsites: BC(27/11,4600m),C1(30/11,5770m),C2(05/12,6025m),xxx(05/12,6025m)
accidents: Nothing serious but 3 members mild illnesses
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC same as others this season
  C1 higher than US C1
  C2 at normal C2 site.

  Vidal returned to C2 on 12 Dec to retrieve gear. Vidal alone to C2 because others sick (throat problem, headaches) and must rejoin them. Snowfell on 1 Dec and heavily on 9 Dec. 11 Dec up to C1 Olivier, Morales and Vidal. Not higher on 12th (except Vidal to clear C2) because weather unstable. Now no one can climb with Vidal and he did not want to climb alone.


expid: ANN197401
peakid: ANN1
year: 1997
route1: N Face (UK 1970 rte)
nation: Japan
leaders: Atsushi Yamamoto
sponsor: Meiji University Annapurna I Expedition 1997
approach: By helicopter->BC
bcdate: 1997-11-23
smtdate: 1997-12-04
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(23/11,4300m),C1(03/12,5100m),C2(04/12,6000m),xxx(04/12,6000m)
accidents: Only Takahashi with lung ailment briefly
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at normal site
  C2 slightly higher than normal
  High point on North Face.

  During stay at BC, 4 big snow storms: 23 Nov very little snow there, but when left BC, about 7 feet snow on ground at BC. After arriving at BC, did some acclimatization climbing and then to C1. While pitching C2 tent, huge avalanche from NE Buttress took tent, but found it and pitched in safer place. 5-6 Dec carry loads and 7 Dec left C1 for summit bid, but Takahashi sick and all turned down from 5100m and to BC. 8 Dec start of heavy snowfall for 3 days bringing 2m snow at BC; stayed in BC for 6 days. 13 Dec all 3 members up to C1 in 7 hours in deep snow (3 hours normal time) and C1 tent almost covered in snow and saw much snow above and think C2 probably covered, so down to BC and climb now finished.


expid: MANA97401
peakid: MANA
year: 1997
route1: NE Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Park Young-Seok
sponsor: Korean Winter Manaslu Expedition
countries: Georgia
approach: By helicopter KTM->Samagaon (29 Nov)
bcdate: 1997-12-04
smtdate: 1997-12-23
termdate: 1997-12-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to deep snow and supplies finished
campsites: BC(04/12,4800m),C1(07/12,5500m),C2(23/12,6500m),xxx(23/12,6500m)
accidents: None
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C2 on NE Face
  High point at C2.

  Porters tried to reach BC from Samagaon on 30 Nov and 1 and 3 Dec but snow too deep for them (3 months) and on 4 Nov members shovelled path and again heavy snowfall. On 8 Dec deposited gear at C2 and down to C1 and BC because new 3m snow started to fall. 11 Dec people in C1 to BC and on down to Samagaon that night. Waited at Samagaon 9 days and 20 Dec back to BC. 23 Dec returned to C1 and dug out tent for foods, etc. 23rd returned to C2 but strong wind blew tent with one man inside 20m but not hurt. 242th Dec all to BC and had news from Samagaon Spanish team's helicopter so rushed to Samagaon on 24th because food and other supplies exhausted. Were frequent avalanches which took supplies from deposit at 6100m.


expid: MANA97403
peakid: MANA
year: 1997
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Alberto Inurrategi
sponsor: Basque Manaslu Expedition
bcdate: 1997-12-28
smtdate: 1998-01-27
termdate: 1998-01-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to wind and cold
campsites: BC(28/12,4800m),C1(04/01,5600m),C2(06/01,6800m),xxx(27/01,7500m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C2 at North Col
  High point at NNW Ridge.

  2 meters snow at BC throughout climbing period. Highest point 7500m reached 27 Jan. Tried 4 times to go up from C2 and on 4th attempt got to 7500m. Wind and cold stopped progress each time, not snow. 1st 2 attempts by all 3 remaining climbers, last 2 attempts by Inurrategi's only. 

  When will they return to Manaslu? Don't know, don't like this mountain: route is boring and dangerous especially between C1 and C2 from avalanching. Big serac avalanche swept near them while having breakfast at C1 but no one hurt.


expid: MANA97402
peakid: MANA
year: 1997
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Jesus Martinez, Jose Antonio Martinez
bcdate: 1998-01-11
smtdate: 1998-01-25
termdate: 1998-02-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(11/01,4800m),C1(13/01,5800m),C2(25/01,6800m),xxx(25-26/01)
agency: Mountain House
routememo:
  Spent 4 nights in C2 but not possible to go higher because very windy and on 28 Jan heavy snowfall. Lost time in C2 3 Feb and too deep snow. Went to C2 3 times.


  Basques (Inurrategi brothers) 8 Feb 98: 

  Martinez Bros are fast in descent but average in ascent. Jesus the better climber but not outstanding. Their plans to summit all 8000ers in 12 months is "optimistic."


expid: AMAD97404
peakid: AMAD
year: 1997
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Manuel Gonzalez Diaz
sponsor: Spanish Expedition to Ama Dablam 1998
ascent1: 233
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 1998-02-02
smtdate: 1998-02-13
agency: Himalayan Culture Treks
campsites:
  BC(02/02,4600m),InterBiv(06/02,5640m),Biv(07/02,5900m),C1(10/02,5850m),C2(11/02,5950m),C3(12/02,6300m),Smt(13/02)

routememo:
  BC at normal site.

  Intended to go from 5650m to C2 at 5950m but were unable to reach that point because too heavy loads. Bivouacked at 5900m 7 Feb and down to BC on 8th. Up again and reached C1 on 10th; C2 on 11th; C3 on 12th. Carbone and Fragniere made C3 on 12th and went to summit on 13th; slept in C3 again; 14th to C1 and 15th to BC. 

  On 14th 3 other members, Chapuisat, Gonzalez and Morales tried to reach C3 for their own summit bid but turned back at 6200m because of wind and getting cloudy, so they also returned to BC and climb finished.


expid: DHA469301
peakid: DHA4
year: 1969
route1: W Col-W Ridge from S
nation: Austria
leaders: Richard Hoyer
sponsor: Austria Himalaya Expedition 1969
countries: W Germany
approach: Pokhara->Myagdi Khola
bcdate: 1969-10-01
smtdate: 1969-11-10
termdate: 1969-11-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m+ after disappearance of 5 members and 1 Sherpa
campsites: BC(01/10),C1(06/10,5100m),C2(12/10,5800m),C3(20/10,6200m),C4,C5(09/11,6900m),xxx(10/11,6900m?)
accidents: 5 members, 1 Sherpa dead of unknown causes (disappeared on summit attempt)
routememo:
  Graf - 29 Nov 69

  Nov 12th Graf with Ang Dawa, Phuwa Kitar and Phuwa Tenzing: I would go with point to C3 and other 2 to stay in C1 and wait. As I went on 13th with point above C1 to C2, PT became ill (bronchitis) which he had already and which go worse as he climbed and therefore had to go back to C1 and next day PT and AD went down to base camp and I stayed with PK at C1, but I was not able to go further up because in these 2 days everyday in afternoon heavy snowfall and we were only 2 and could not try this difficult route, so I stayed with PK until 16th.

  Nov 12 - 4 to C1
      13 - Graf and PT try for C2 and return C1
      14 - PT and AD to base
      15 - Graf and PK in C1 
      16 - leave C1 to base

  Idea was to go to C3 only and not beyond; from C3 could see much of route to C4 and C5 and summit and also at C3 was another radio.

  (3 radios: 
   1) base
   2) C3
   3) as far as C5 and stayed there - not taken to summit)

  Whole day of 14th and 15th waiting looking and hoping but in afternoon bad weather prevented sight.

  Graf returned to base on 15th because no sign and radio communication not possible from C1 and Graf didn't know what happened in meantime.

  Graf had gone to C3 (this his farthest) on 21 Oct with Nemac and Reha, carrying loads and return to C2 for night not possible to send up more Sherpas from base cause had no more (except cook who was no climber)

  Early 17th Kubiena left for Beri for helicopter.

  Will do search flight with PP (Krammer aboard) whenever weather will permit again - to look for tents at C5: seems to be removed to be used; if 2 tents at C5 are still to be seen, accident happened on way to summit and return. 

  12-15 - I was healthy but difficulties of route between C1 and C2 reached my limit. I had to make new steps since snowfall and fixed ropes were partly covered with snow; if Sherpa had not gotten sick, could not have reached C2 same day but next day could have done so if Sherpa not sick; but did get sick and now only two men and therefore not safe for two alone to try continue upwards.


  Kubiena & Kramer - 28 Nov 69

  Kubiena thinks all in such good condition, felt all should be allowed to go to summit together on 10th.

  C5 highest planned and way not difficult from C5; they felt this and Kubiena after helicopter search felt this.

  C5 established 15:00 hrs on 9th.

  "We think something happened to them on way to summit; it is possible something happened to wireless but we don't believe it because it worked so well; maybe they reached the summit and it happened on the way down."

  Avalanche not possible because they were on ridge but cornice break possible.

  At higher camps had had snow fall almost every evening but on 9th more snow than before and on 10th weather not so clear.

  Summiters wanted to start on 10th very early. Krammer out at 3 am and saw weather was very clear and bright starlight and Krammer could see C3's site from base.

  C3 was the highest camp one can see from base; cannot see C4 and C5 and summit.


  Krammer diary:

  Weather Nov 10 deteriorating from hr to hr and 3 layers clouds; 22:00 hrs rain at base began and think bivouac in bad weather since no radio.

  Nov 11 bad weather: clouds and high, snow would reach camp C3 3 days later at least from summit (at C3 was radio).

  K and K arrive today by Pilatus Porter.

  Graf and M-J with luggage tomorrow or day after. 

  Graf leaves Pokhara 6:30 in PP but returned 8:15 because could not go even near mountain because wind so strong. If weather could permit might try again tomorrow again tomorrow or Sun. After that (30 Nov) no attempt at flight.

  Normal weather: clouds at noon, little snow, clear by 8 pm.

  Nov 10 - clouds by 9:00 am and stayed low all day and evening rain snow began 10 pm.

  Letter from liaison officer dated 15 Nov ex-basecamp reported last intercom contact from leader 9 Nov 6 pm from C5 where all 6 climbers rested. Pgm for next day was to attempt summit if good weather but if bad weather would contact 7:30 am by walkie-talkie. If weather good and no contact, base camp assume they trying for summit. Next contact should then be at 12:00 and if more then try every hour on hour. We are all in good condition and have food for 1 or 2 days.

  Base camp crew had no contact on 10th by walkie-talkie or on following days, and since no contact these 5 days we assume they are missing. 

  Missing persons: Hoyer, Nemec, Lavicka, Ring, Reha, Tenzing Nindra


  27 Nov 69

  Dr. Bukashi (Austrian embassy) received telegram ex-Austrian Gov't saying Austrian Alpine Club will provide $3000 for Mueller-Jungbluth search party on condition there is some indication same missing men still be alive.


  Mueller-Jungbluth - 24 Nov 69

  M-J with expedition to Muri where expedition went north and he went northwest and that's last he saw of them which was 26 Sept.

  Heard was on radio 21 Nov at Ghari and in 1-1/2 days reached Pokhara at 11 am 23 Nov and at Pokhara met Gen who had letter from Kubiena: Graf, Krammer and Kubiena safe. 

  Helicopter to C3 and let down near from ladder; wants to look down a glacier on north side.


  Mueller-Jungbluth of Austria

  Please inform yourself whether it is possible to get helicopter on charter or free for help of missing Austrian climbers Dhaulagiri IV. If the helicopter going to help 3 fresh good men possibly should go to base camp about 15,000 ft for searching. Confirm crew RNAC Pokhara or air drawn office early morning 24 Nov.


  Jai Singh - 21 Nov 69

  Could see sites of C3, C4 and C5 but no tents; clear weather, circled 6 rounds at 18,000 ft and up to 21,000 ft in 2 rounds at levels climbers might be, see no tracks and no people; very strong wind (60 knots), so tracks and bodies could be covered. 

  Base camp party included liaison officer.

  4 climbers and 2 Sherpas are missing, Jai thinks
  2 in Beni.


  Base camp party, etc, Beni March - Tuesday

  Grand search no use; would have to be expert climbers; one base camp man and 2 Sherpas tried 2-3 days ago but couldn't get up onto ridge.

  Kubiena was in wireless contact with base camp, but now base moving Kubiena feels climbing party lost for good; no further search.


  HMG - 21 Nov 69

  5 members and 1 Sherpa missing from 12 Nov when had climbed to 24,000 ft.


  Mueller-Jungbluth - 13 Sept 69

  Austrian expeditions real climbers are Hoyer, Ring, Nemec, Reha and Levicka
  6 Sherpas:
  sirdar - Ang Dawa
  cook   - Kali Tamang
           Phuwa Tenzing
           Tenzing Nindra
           Phuwa Kita
  kitchen boy - Norbu Lhakpa


  Hoyer and Mueller-Jungbluth - 9 Sept 69

  Most members arrived KTM Sept 8; 2 (Kramer and Ring) arrive 9th; and last one Kubiena arrive 18 Oct.

  Leave for Pokhara soon as possible; route via Beri to Myagdi Khola to Choriban Khola to base.

  Will climb actual Dhaulagiri IV, not peak attempted by JOMR and RAF - this peak never attempted.


  JOMR (JOM Roberts)

  Going down onto glacier for C4, up glacier C5 
  C6 on West Ridge of Dhaulagiri 23,000 ft.


expid: EVER69301
peakid: EVER
year: 1969
route1: SW Face (recon)
nation: Japan
leaders: Hideki Miyashita
sponsor: Japanese Alpine Club (JAC)
bcdate: 1969-09-16
smtdate: 1969-10-31
termdate: 1969-11-04
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m (did not intend to try for summit)
campsites:
  BC(16/09,5400m),C1(28/09,6050m),C2(15/10,6600m),C3(18/10,7000m),C4(29/10,7500m),xxx(31/10,01/11,8000m)

routememo:
  Sato - 12 Nov 69 (ex-Lukla)

  2 today - leader and Sato
  8 more tomorrow including 4 journalists
  2 Friday (5 & 7)

  Could go up SW Face up central ice couloir to snow traverse onto South Ridge; traverse starts at 8000m.

  In recon reached this 8000m point.

  Recon was to experience rock climbing at high altitude 
  On last day, 2 members went to highest point reached by expedition
  at 7970m:
  31 Oct - Konishi and Uemura
  1 Nov - Sato and Nakajima

  Sato proceeded one more pitch to 8000m rock climbing for 1st time; not so steep but much trouble with oxygen equipment. Was 5:30 pm and suffered slight frostbite in toes. At 5:00 oxygen finished; at 5:30 also could find no good belaying point; another time if had ice pitons, Ok.

  South Ridge some danger of rock falls - also space for camp. Sato reached beginning of snow traverse. Directissima from this point forbidding: some overhang and very smooth rock walls. If can make big station including oxygen hut at base thus rock buttress might be possible to do directissima, so expect will do traverse.


expid: GURJ69301
peakid: GURJ
year: 1969
route1: NW Face-W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yoshimi Yakushi
sponsor: Kitanippon Press & Kitanippon Broadcasting Company
ascent1: 1st
approach: Pokhara->Beni->Darbang->Budzunge Bara La->Kaphe Khola
bcdate: 1969-10-04
smtdate: 1969-11-01
smttime: 1445
termdate: 1969-11-08
othersmts: Climbed Ghustang North (GHUN-693-01)
campsites:
  BC(04/10,4100m),C1(09/10,4750m),C2A(14/10,5000m),C2B(18/10,5300m),C3.ABC(22/10,5750m),C4(24/10,5900m),C5(29/10,6450m),Smt(01/11)

routememo:
  Ito & Yakushi - 20 Nov 69

  All members now in KTM.

  C5 6450m - most difficult climbing between C1 (4750m) and C2 (5300m). C3 at 5750m. Searching route up Kaphe Glacier west of Gurja Himal and then rock face at 5000m, 750m high (C3 at top). Fixed rope 1400m on rock face. Took one week up face; deep snow above C3 to near top, but not so difficult climbing.

  Generously good weather. Left base camp 8 Nov. 4 members go to Namche. Yakushi leaves for Japan 10 Dec and Ito for Japan about 25 Nov.

  Gurja a peak suitable for small (5-6 members) expedition. Very attractive for such expedition. This expedition really 6 climbers. Gurja very interesting skiing - nice runs above rock face and also neighbouring peaks. South Face of Gurja very difficult, but maybe very interesting: all rock climbing (maybe all way from base to summit fixed rope and hand tents). North Face very easy.

  To Pokhara (15 Sept)
   Shimioda, Sakai, 4 Sherpas

  To Pokhara (16 Sept)
   Ito. Liaison officer

  To Pokhara (20 Sept) 
   Leader, 4 other members, 4 Sherpas

  Sirdar: Tenzing Girme

  RNAC (fax lists)
  Sakai, Saeki and Inoue
  Flew scheduled flight to Pokhara Sept 15. Charter cancelled no flight to Pokhara Sept 14. Shimoda, Yakushi and 2 Sherpas booked for 14th but flight cancelled.


  Ito & Yakushi - 12 Sept 69

  Leader leaves 14 Sept 
  Ito           15 Sept
  others        16 Sept

  Pokhara-Kusana-Beni-Dharbang-Gurja Khani. Base in upper stream of Ghustang Khola end of Sept. Approach peak from west-northwest. Summit attempts around Oct 25. Return same route.


expid: CHUR69301
peakid: CHUR
year: 1969
route1: WNW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Paolo Consiglio
sponsor: Italian Academic Expedition 1969
approach: Pokhara->Dhorpatan-Budzunge Bara La->Churen Himal (BC)
bcdate: 1969-10-15
smtdate: 1969-11-13
termdate: 1969-11-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to high winds
campsites:
  BC(15/10,4050m),C1(17/10,4750m),C2(20/10,5150m),C3(23/10,5550m),C4(30/10,6000m),C5(12/11,6350m),xxx(13/11,6500m)

routememo:
  Consiglio - 27 Nov 69

  Bellini and Franzina in KTM, others in Pokhara.
  In Dhorpatan 5 Sherpas and 600 kg baggage.

  Rocky ridge very very difficult and strong wind - West Ridge - on other side helped snow and glacier - reached 6500m by Puissi and Gross. Slept C5 at 6350m wth 2 others ready to establish C6; wind very strong and 1 tent C1 blown away and 3 tents broken in C1, C2 and C5 on 13-14 Nov.

  10 Nov snow all day
  11 Nov snow all day but
  11-12 strong wind 
  12 no closed but strong wind
  12 put C5 at 6350m
  13 wind all day and night
  13 + Puissi and Gross at 6500m 

  14 Nov all returned because ridge impossible to climb; all in base on Nov 16; always strong wind from 11th.

  Even without wind, difficulties of ridge.

  9 Nov night - snow, not cold = avalanche danger.

  All other members arrive KTM by RNAC 27 Nov except Marti and Alleto.


  Letter from Giacomelli - 17 Oct

  We reached the day before yesterday. The base camp and one team has actually placed today the first advance camp. So far so good, but Churen Himal is certainly not an easy mountain.


  Letter from Giacomelli 

  Departure from Pokhara on the 10th of October. Arrival and establishment of Base Camp at the head of the Gustang Khola on the morning of the 15th October.

  The trekking has been uneventful but for the crossing of the Gurja Khani Pass which was done under a heavy snowstorm with considerable difficulties for the coolies.

  On the 17th one team has established the first high camp (15,600 ft) on the southwest side of the mountain without difficulties which start immediately above the first camp with a belt of steep rock and some danger of the icefall. The weather has been so far fine.

  The base camp of the Japanese expedition to Gurja Himal is very close to ours and all the members (7) but the leader are at present at the first high camp and at the temporary second high camp so far established at roughly 16,000 ft.


expid: PK2969301
peakid: PK29
year: 1969
route1: E Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Senya Sumiyoshi
sponsor: Himalayan Expedition of Osaka University
bcdate: 1969-09-22
smtdate: 1969-11-01
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to difficult ice wall and crevasses near summit
campsites:
  BC(22/09,4100m),C1(27/09,5100m),C2(30/09,5600m),C3(05/10,5900m),C4(18/10,6100m),C5(19/10,6200m),C6(24/10,6900m),xxx(01/11,7400m)

routememo:
  Sumiyoshi - 25 Nov 69

  End of Oct to 2 Nov - 7 teams attempted summit in 10 days.

  C6 at 6900m, so almost 1000m very steep ice face (very hard ice). Highest point reached was 7400m on 1st Nov. All 8 climbing members at C6 (no Sherpas there). Good weather and almost every day attacked in 2-member teams (same days 2 parties trying on same day).

  Fixed rope necessary all way. No camping place to be found above C6. All 8 members reached 7350m. Declines to give names for highest point.

  If had enough time would develop highest point. Took many days to fix rope and then jet stream causing snow collapsing endangering climbers and very severe cold (-34 degrees at night).

  Leader may come next year with JAC on Everest.
  All members return yesterday to KTM, all well.


  Manadhar, Foreign Ministry - 30 Sept 69

  Message from Osaka University, expedition says they established base camp 22 Sept and on 26th Sept starting up to C1. Those going up to C1 were members Senya Sumiyoshi, Yasuo Tamai, Hideo Misawa, Jiro Kuroda, Yoshihiko Koda, Yoshiki Tanaka, Hiroshi Watanabe.

  BC  4000m
  C1  4800m
  C2  5400m
  C3  6200m
  C4  6800m
  C5  7200m
  C6  7400m

  Left KTM 3 Sept by truck to Trisuli Bazaar.


expid: KAND69301
peakid: KAND
year: 1969
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Minoru Ito
sponsor: Kobe University of Commerce
approach: Jumla->Chaudhabise Khola
smtdate: 1969-10-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due deep gap blocking route to main summit
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4(6000m),xxx(27/10,6500m)
routememo:
  Shimizu - 20 Nov 69

  2 members on 6500m summit of South Peak on night without sleeping bags; sure could reach summit. 1 steep knife-edge ridge gap intervened and needed one more advance camp and 2 members very tired. Not impossible, but very difficult and takes 3 days. Only 150m remained.

  Inoue and Fukui were 2 members who reached highest point 27 Oct.

  Had to return because weather getting bad. Most important thing to go back safely; if very tired not safe and Sherpas not able make difficult climb.

  Wind and clouds (cannot see snow more than 30m).
  Only one route = one they tried.

  Highest camp = C4 about 6000m


  Shimizu - 18 Sept 69

  To Jumla Sept 18 by Twin Pioneer (Royal Nepal Army) left KTM 

  Dr Ito 
  Nishihara
  Fukui
  Liaison officer, Govinda Man Serchand who arranged porters and returned 
    on next flight. 
  2 Sherpas.
  700 kg.
  Other 2 members and 1 Sherpa hope to leave tomorrow + 960 kg

  West Nepal Scientific Expedition

  Sep 14  1st flight to Jumla
  Sep 16  2nd flight to Jumla
  Sep 19  leave Jumla
  Sep 21  arrive Talphi
  Sep 23  Chaudhabise Khola

  Oct 6   establish base
  Oct 13  summit
  Oct 19  leave base
  Oct 23  arrive Jumla
  Oct 27  leave (Surkhet)

  Nov 2   arrive Chilka
  Nov 7   arrive Dailakh
  Nov 11  arrive Surkhet
  Nov 14  leave  Surkhet
  Nov 14  arrive KTM

  Base camp and 3 camps; final attack on point 21,736 from south.
  Same approach as 1963.


expid: EVER69302
peakid: EVER
year: 1969
route1: S Col (recon)
nation: Japan
leaders: Yuichiro Miura
sponsor: Japanese Ministry of Foreign Affairs
termnote: Recon only for skiing
campsites: BC,ABC(6400m),xxx(7500m)
accidents: 1 Sherpa killed by fall into crevasse
routememo:
  Muira & Co - 1 Nov 69

  Arrived KTM today: Yuichiro Miura, Yukihiko Kato, Eiichi Yamamoto glaciologist assistant professor Hokkaido University. All others to come by 5 Nov by plane.

  Great possibility from South Col to Western Cwm to ski all distance, but some perhaps too steep and snow conditions unknown. Huge crevasse in Western Cwm: wants to go straight down from South Summit of Everest and by then by ordinary alpine skiing to South Col and from South Col to Western Cwm straight down with parachute as stabilizer (very small, special kind - first time ever tried by skier Miura used on Fuji and now improved parachute and tried now at foot of Geneva Spur - 9-10 ft diameter); also has emergency brake parachute 15 ft diameter.

  Tried from bottom of Geneva spur into Western Cwm. Wants to try new route and avoid Lhotse Face, but go between Lhotse Face and SW Face of Everest.

  Crevasse at bottom of spur and of Cwm is 10m deep, so must jump over. 

  Tried parachute 2-5 times 10 days ago; Miura went up to 7000m. Advance base at 6400m (didn't use oxygen).

  Dr. checking friction coeffecient of snow. Glacier difficult - some crusty, some = very large flakes weakly connected together (causes avalanches sanctuaries).

  Depth hoar some places crust is broken and in such places ski cannot be controlled there - crust in not so hard as first believed.

  Oxygen will be reached when goes up to South Summit; below South Summit is blue ice couloir 8400m high and from here will try skiing by ordinary alpine skiing techniques; steep part straight down (Schuss technique) and then parachute.

  Will have control center at 6700m at place where slope gentles in Western Cwm and then speed will be monitored and tell Miura by radio when should use stabilizer or breaking parachute.

  Very beautiful place - fantastic views skiing.

  Altitude of Everest an unknown experience for Miura; 7000m not so easy but endurable, 8500m doesn't know; highest 5400m so for him (maximum 2 years ago).

  Miura goes to Japan to improve equipment especially oxygen system and radio control system; leaves soon as possible.

  JAC team (Miyashita) to 7500m; achieved one week ago and still going up aiming at 8000m max; had found [SW Face] route.

  Met Hillary, Dyhrenfurth and Bishop and discussed route with them.

  Phu Dorje wanted to ski with Miura and expedition to succeed, so we must to succeed for him.

  As 21 Sept 1969
  1.  arrive KTM 27 Sept
  2. 
  3.  in KTM
  4.  trekking to Khumbu
  5.  trekking to Khumbu
  6.  trekking to Khumbu
  7.  trekking to Khumbu
  8.  in KTM
  9.  arrive KTM 23 Sept
  10. arrive KTM 23 Sept
  11. arrive KTM Oct
  12. arrive KTM Oct
  13. in KTM 
  14. arrive KTM 23 Sept
  15. arrive KTM 23 Sept
  16.


  Yukihiko Kato, Mgr Japanese ski expedition - 21 Sept 69

  Miura arrives 27 Sept ex-NDH.

  Arrive 23 Sept ex-NDH: members Masaru Tsuchida, Takashi Sasaki, Masaru Otaki and Toshiki Hiyama. These going to Lukla by UN plane on 26 and 28 Sept with Kato, Yamamoto, Seisei Ajisaka and cameraman - 4 flights and Girme Dorje.

  Tomoi Saeki, Kazunari Yashisa, Kazuhiko Yamada and Hisashi Ishiguro on way to Khumbu by foot with all baggage; left KTM 16th afternoon.

  12 arrive Nepal next month and stay in KTM - no a climber.
  one still film cameraman not on list will arrive maybe end Sept.
  President of Now JESE committee is Senator of Japan.

  Takahashi opposed idea 2 Japanese Everest expeditions at same time, but JESE and JAC given HMG permission for pre-monsoon 1970 so no choice about it.

  Japanese Everest Skiing Expedition (JESE)
  C/O Science Museum
  2-chome, Kitanomaru-park, Royal Park
  Chiyoda, Tokyo


  Letter to Nepal Ambassador Tokyo dated 27 Aug 69 re-reorganization of Japanese Everest Skiing Expedition says we have established the executive working committee with:
    General Commander Mr. Shintaro Ishihara
    General Mgr Mr. Taisuka Fujishima
    Skiing Commander Mr. Yuichiro Muira

  Mr. Akira Takabashi who was leader of JESE, will contribute to this expedition in future as one of the advisor-staff, signed by Fujishima and Takahashi.


  YK Silwal, MFA - 21 Feb 69

  Japanese Alpine club's Japan 1970 Everest expedition can be given permission only when rules published. No assurance even given; when rules are out, start processing all applications and Japanese ski-film expedition specifically instructed not attempt any peaks. Permission given because must begin filming now to be ready for Expo 1970.

  10 coming Aug - Nov
  20 coming Feb - Apr 70 


  Akira Takahashi - 27 June 69

  25 members to Nepal next Feb - recon party (12 members) this Sept to Nov. maybe inch Takahashi - ski and climbing not together because dangerous in narrow Khumbu Icefall - if too many people together - JAC climbing expedition maybe 1971.

  Permit for South Col only - not peak of Everest - for ski party.

  intend ski on Lhotse Face skier - Skier member Mr Miura now going South American training on oxygen - now Defence Ministry develop new type oxygen equipment like 2 Coke bottles one below each shoulder in front - Dr. with expedition will check condition only Miura skiing from top to bottom 8000m on Lhotse Face (has trained in top in low pressure and room) to 7 in one time: party to find this out

  Yuichiro Miura from Kamakura (city near Tokyo)
  Takahashi arrived KTM yesterday, staying about 1 week - was leader 1962 AJHE expedition Leongpo Gang (Jugal Himal)


expid: DHA169101
peakid: DHA1
year: 1969
route1: SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Boyd Nixon Everett Jr.
sponsor: American Alpine Club
approach: Pokhara->Lete->SE Dhaulagiri Glacier (BC)
bcdate: 1969-04-21
smtdate: 1969-04-28
termdate: 1969-04-29
termnote: Abandoned at 5335m due to massive fatal avalanche
campsites: BC(21/04,4575m),Dep(26/04,5335m),xxx(28/04,5335m)
accidents: Avalanche at C1 (7 dead)
routememo:
  9 May 1969

  Pemba Phutar, ex-Manjo - 3 wife - 46 Dalamu
  Tenzing, 32, ex-Pangboche, wife - Pemba Tiki, 28, children
     2 daughters - 9 + 3 
     1 son

  arrive today

  1) must spend Rs 4000-5000 each on death service: light 2000 ghee lamps, make 
     rice balls to give each relatives attending ceremony on 49th, give salt also
  2) income tax
  3) schooling

  Pemba Phutar's wife: Rs 10,000 for 3 sons education and rest in house; education at Thyangboche to 6th year and then Salleri School.

  Tenzing's wife: eldest daughter has to look after baby son and baby to school Pangboche; Rs 1200 loan to repay.

  Not to remarry as too much distress when they die and Mrs. Pemba Phutar has already 5 children. Life essentially same. 

  Pemba Phutar had been to Dhaulagiri 4 times and he was avery good climber; half income from climbing and hiking, half from ? 

      5000        5,800  service
      8000        8,000  tax
     10000        1,200  loan
    -------      15,000  education
     23000      


  Duenwald & Read, Press Conf - 2 May 1969

  Ill at ease at airport - apologized for hurried departure.
  Tribute to all Sherpas and liaison officer, terrific help and inspiration.

  Appreciate and welcome new rules of Gov't of Nepal, tremendous cooperation from gov't. Hope our experience doesn't interfere with others in future.


  Chronology statement:

  April 28 - carrying from 12,400 up 14,900 ft and another 14,900 to 17,000 ft
  2nd group:  Everett
              Ross
              Hoeman
              Gerhard
              Reichardt
              + 2 Sherpas

  Arrived at 17,000 ft at noon and putting poles in place across crevasse. Tremendous ice avalanche swept down on party depositing debris 500 vertical ft below. Reichardt unhurt at point of impact and searched for others. Afternoon 1 hour down glacier searching further - reached 12,000 ft and informed rest who went up to 16,500 ft (now 6 pm and searched) until after dark and no signs of others. Went to 12,400 ft next day. On 29th Duenwald to Jomsom to send news there and met Read who had gone for evacuation for minor medical treatment - serve no survivors (end statement) times before - about all members had been up there. Survivors in excellent health. Today helicopter sat Kalo Pani waiting for weather and met 3 and liaison officer and Bech others who all in fine condition.

  Read: 1 week before 28th suffered pulmonary edema (going too light too fast) and now blind in right eye, temporarily he hopes; had planned to fly back to expedition. Expedition now leaving mountain in orderly manner. Hired porters around Kalo Pani, Leyte and Danbu. Will leave Leyte tomorrow or next day: in Pokhara Thursday.

  It's a calculated risk when you climb a mountain, but no premonition of avalanching and morale high. Whole area of accident was sloping glacier.

  Weather during climbing basically good; clear parts of each day; weather had been no major problem.

  First saw summit long way down from mountain, "very beautiful mountain."

  1st day of climbing was 20th or 21st. Planned climbing until monsoon, 1-15 June (perhaps 19th).

  Don't know whether intend to return to Dhaulagiri. Had excellent Sherpas.

  Chose SE Ridge very attractive route and will be climbed some day; declined elaborate on why attractive.

  Liaison officer at 12,400 ft on 28th waiting for permanent base camp be established at 14,900 ft.

  Read and Duenwald to stay in KTM waiting for others.

  Terry Bech accompanied party as well, a Fullbright scholar ex-Spokane; hiked to base camp and at 12,400 on 28th.


  Brooks - 1 May 1969

  Leaves 6:00 am in helicopter; 2 hrs 30 minutes KTM/Jomsom. Read and Duenwald to fly out, Brooks to trek to Pokhara.

  Problem to get through Kali Gandaki gorge's winds and low clouds at narrowest width between Dhaulagiri and Annapurna of 300 yards. Doug Blakely pilot.


  Everett - 7 April 1969

  Concerned about fact that route very long, "most extended route" in Nepal Himalayas. Delay of baggage and monsoon looming; leave Friday or later.

  Married:
    Morrisey - 2 children
    Duenwald - at least 1 
    Hoeman   - none
    Everett  - resigned from Lehman Corp

  Liaison Officer: Hari Das Rai (as subinspector, was with British expedition to Gaurishankar in 1964).

  Boyd Nixon Everett, Junior
    Security analyst

  Al Read
    Moose, Wyoming
    Climbing guide

  Paul Alexander Gerhard
    Laguna Beach, California
    Computer systems analyst

  Rest arriving next 4 days with more expedition baggage

  SE Ridge never attempted before; no oxygen (unable get any).


  Statement of William Read:

  On the morning of April 28 expedition was carrying loads in two groups, one from 12,400 to 14,900 ft, another from 14,900 to 17,000 ft. Group going from 14,900 to 17,000 ft was carrying technical climbing equipment and poles to bridge the crevasse.

  This group included Boyd Everett, Dr. William Ross, David Seidman, Vin Hoeman, Paul Gerhard, Lou Reichardt, Tenzing Sherpa and Pemba Phutar Sherpa. This group arrived at 17,000 ft at approximately 12 noon at which time they were engaged in placing poles across the crevasse. As this was in progress, noise of an avalanche was heard and a tremendous ice avalanche swept through the party and continued down the glacier, depositing its debris approximately 500 feet lower. Lou Reichardt was left unhurt at the point of impact. He immediately searched the area for any sign of the other members of the party but found none. After about an hour of searching, he proceeded down the glacier, searching as he went for any sign of life. Finding none, he descended to 12,400 ft and informed the rest of the party. All of us immediately proceeded up to 16,500 ft to search the debris further for survivors. This was approximately 6 pm, and we searched until after dark, finding only some light pieces of equipment and no signs of life. After completing search, our party descended to 12,400 ft next day. The next day Duenwald descended to Jomsom to bring out the news, and met there William Read who had come down previously to seek evacuation for a minor medical problem. We feel certain as a result of our search that there were no survivors and that it would be impossible recover any bodies.


  Letter from Boyd Everett - April 26

  In the early morning of April 22 William Read, deputy leader of the American Dhaulagiri Expedition, suffered a severe case of pulmonary edema at 15,000 ft. He was immediately treated with oxygen, Laisix and other medication by Dr James Morrissey. He was also evacuated to the town of Leyte at 8000 ft where he is currently recuperating. A full recovery is expected within a week or two but it is not certain that Mr Read will be able to rejoin the expedition on the mountain.

  Pulmonary edema is a disease somewhat similar to pneumonia which is unfortunately quite common among climbers between 12,000 ft and 20,000 ft. It can be fatal within a few hours unless the patient is immediately treated and removed to a lower altitude which was done in this case. Except for requiring a long period of rest there are usually not too many complications from the disease.

  In spite of this setback the expedition, has moved its base camp from 15,000 ft to 17,000 ft on the East Glacier and advance party has requested 2 days foot poles to cross a crevasse, but there have no major technical problem as yet. Beginning at 19,000 ft, however, the route promises to be technically difficult as any ever done in the Himalayas. We will attempt to climb the 2500-foot rock and see ice averaging about 60 degrees to gain the crest of the South East Ridge. The ridge will have several thousand feet of corniced climbing which does not end until about 24,000 ft. Beyond that we have not had or good view.

  The spirit of the party are high, although we regret losing one of our strongest members. Inspite of the difficulties of the route we are fairly confident of success, provided the route can be done before the monsoon comes.


