# exped

expid: EVER01113
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Peter Guggemos
sponsor: German Everest Expedition
countries: Austria
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2001-04-06
smtdate: 2001-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 8750m due to snow conditions
campsites: BC(06/04,5350m),C1(11/04,6050m),C2(16-17/04,6350m),C3(20/04,7350m),C4(02/05,7950m),xxx(22/05,8750m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  C4 at South Col (Guggemos, Hackl and Porsche).

  May 21: left C4 at about 22:30 hours.

  May 22: reached 8750m about 12:00 hours. Snow conditions made difficult to cross above South Summit to Hillary Step. Much rope work done - Dawa exhausted. Returned to C4 sleep.

  May 23: down to C2.

  Schorcht and Steger left expedition on April 8 due to health problem. Dr Zuerner left BC on May 19 due to lack of time. Rest of members returned to Kathmandu on May 30 and leaving on June 1. Guggemos joining K2 expedition on June 8. After that no more expeditions.


expid: EVER01114
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Seizo Imanari
sponsor: Odyssey Everest Expedition
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2001-04-09
smtdate: 2001-05-10
termdate: 2001-05-17
termnote: Abandoned at 7360m due to bad weather (snowfall, high winds)
campsites: BC(09/04,5300m),C1(16/04,6100m),C2(18/04,6500m),C3(10/05,7300m),xxx(10/05,7360m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in West Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face.

  May 5: BC to C2 stayed for the day. Back to C1. Again to C2 and on 10th to C3. Down to BC on 12th.
   
  Oxygen used: C2 to C3 and for sleeping. About 6 Bottles.

  The team returned to KTM via Jiri on 18th (helicopter from Shyangboche to Jiri). Will leave on May 26 midnight to Osaka.

  The leader does not consider Mr. Shimizu as member of the expedition. He had already left Nepal long before the rest of the team.


expid: EVER01115
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Harish Chander Kohli
sponsor: Independent climber
approach: Dhading->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2001-04-16
smtdate: 2001-05-23
termdate: 2001-05-28
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to Sherpas (one said sick, other not trusted)
campsites: BC(16/04,5450m),C1(25/04),C2(26/04),C3(21/05,7100m),xxx(23/05,7100m)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  Altitude of camps were same like the Indian Expeditions. Kohli didn't keep records. C4 was already there.

  Initially Kohli's plan was to go together with Indian Army team using their camps.

  The leader is retired Lt. Colonel in the Indian Army. Background:
    Leader of Trans Himalayan Expedition 1981-82 Arunachal-Karokoram
      5000 km in 75 days.
    Skiing Himalaya Expedition: Karakoram-Indo Nepal Border Lipulekh
      2000 km in 97 days. 1985. 

  His deputy was Colonel K. Kumar (Everest Army Expedition 2001 - Leader).

  Returned to KTM on May 31. Leaves Nepal probably following week, not sure.


expid: EVER01116
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Goetz Wiegand
sponsor: Saxony Himalaya Everest Expedition 2001
ascent1: 386
bcdate: 2001-04-29
smtdate: 2001-05-22
smttime: 1700
termdate: 2001-05-29
othersmts: Attempted Pumori (PUMO-011-02)
campsites: BC(29/04,5350m),C2(02/05,6400m),C3(03/05,7200m),C4(21/05,7900m),Smt(22/05)
accidents: Lhakpa Tshering altitude sickness
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C2 at West Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  From C4 Stingl and Tuerpe 22 May at 12:30 am. Tuerpe to South Summit turned back at 1:30 pm, using ropes fixed that morning by Indian expedition while Stingl to top at 5:00 pm. Stingl slept at C4 at 9:00 pm (with headlamp). Wiegand hoped to go to top starting on 22/23 night, but had to help Tuerpe. 2nd summit bid planned from South Col but weather bad. All in BC May 25 May.

  Oxygen: taken to Everest and used by [Sirdar] Lhakpa Tshering (Khunde) while sick and by Mingma [Nuru] while he stayed at South Col. Members used none at all.


expid: EVER01117
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Carlos Soria Fontan
sponsor: Independent (Asian Trekking)
ascent1: 404
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2001-04-05
smtdate: 2001-05-23
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2001-05-26
campsites: BC(05/04,5400m),C1(12/04,6100m),C2(13/04,6400m),C3(21/05,7300m),C4(22/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C4 at South Col.

  May 22 left C4 at 23:30 hours. Summit on 23rd about 12:30 hours. Stayed about 30 minutes. Returned to C4 18:30 about hours. Next day to C2.

  His Sherpa Pemba did not show up at C4 to accompany him to summit. Met on summit 2 Russians and Italian.

  Returned to KTM on May 29. Leaves on June 1 or 3.


expid: EVER01118
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Francisco Goni
sponsor: Friendship International Everest Expedition (Asian Trekking)
ascent1: 401
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2001-04-09
smtdate: 2001-05-23
smttime: 0915
termdate: 2001-05-27
campsites: BC(09/04,5350m),C1(12/04,6000m),C2(13/04,6400m),C3(28/04,7300m),C4(22/05,7950m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at 6000m (slept all members)
  C4 slept in by all members.

  May 21 - All members slept at C3.

  May 22 - left C4 at 21:30 hours

  May 23 - Alvarez summited at 09:15 hours, stayed about 20 minutes,
           returned to C4 at around 14:30 hours. Used oxygen from C3 summit
           and descent to C3.

           Reketa summited at 10:30, spent about 15 minutes, returned
           to C4 around 17:00 hours. Used oxygen from C4 to top to C4.

           Goni summited at 11:00 hours, spent about 20 minutes, returned to C4. 
           Oxygen C4 to top to C4.

  All descended to C2 on 24th.

  Sherpas:
    Thukten Dorje Sherpa, Thami, first time
    Lhakpa Tshering Sherpa, Khumjung, summited from north in 2000
    [Ang] Pasang Sherpa only up to C4.

  Returned to Kathmandu on May 31. Leaving on June 2.


expid: EVER01119
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Isidoro Rodriguez
sponsor: Everest 2001 Expedution Samuel Rubio Castilla y Leon
ascent1: 384
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2001-04-05
smtdate: 2001-05-22
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2001-05-26
campsites: BC(05/04,5350m),C1(10/04,6000m),C2(15/04,6350m),C3(25/04,7250m),C4(30/04,7900m),Smt(22/05)
achievment: 1st team of the season without Sherpas to summit
agency: Sherpa Alpine Trekking
routememo:
  Perez Alvarez brought down from 8600m and evacuated by helicopter on 28 from Pheriche. Improving condition at hospital at the time of meeting.

  May 22: Lagunilla Alonso, Ramos Garcia and Rodriguez Sanchez with Perez Alvarez left C4 at 00:30 hours; three summited 12:30 hours, stayed half-hour, 16:00 back to C4. Next day down to C2 and following day to BC. (May 20 BC->C2, 21 C2->C4, 22 -> summit). Oxygen used (by summiters) summit and back to little for sleeping.

  Adrados Polo left BC on May 20 to join the city who are trekking.

  The expedition is the first from the city. It is hoped that the success would inspire young climbers from the region, as told by Jaime Rubio.

  Team returned to KTM on May 29; will leave on June 1.

  Source of above information leader and Mr. Jaime Rubio Alavarez, son of late Samuel Rubio Castilla. The expedition is named after him. 

accidents:
  Perez Alvarez at about 8600m got sick due to problem in oxygen supply system, brought down, evacuated by helicopter on 28 from Pheriche; improving condition at Hospital at the time of meeting


expid: EVER01120
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Edurne Pasaban
sponsor: International Everest Expedition
ascent1: 402
countries: Ecuador, Italy
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2001-04-10
smtdate: 2001-05-23
smttime: 1020
termdate: 2001-05-25
campsites: BC(10/04,5200m),C1(14/04,5600m),C2(16/04,6300m),C3(24/04,7300m),C4(22/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
accidents: Nima sick
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  C1 not used (deposits only)
  C2 all six slept
  C3 three slept
  C4 at South Col.

  May 23: left C4 at 00:30 hours, summit at 10:20 hours (Mondinelli, Pasaban and Dawa), 20 minutes later Vallejo, Merelli at about 13:00 hours. First group stayed about 10 minutes, to C4 at about 16:30 hours. Weather at summit sunshine, wind and cold. While at South Summit the weather was very good - above cloudy.

  Oxygen used: leader Merelli and Sherpa C4 -> summit (4 bottles). 1 bottle was used for Nima Sherpa who got sick and evacuated from BC. Mondinelli and Vallejo summited without oxygen.

  The summiters saw on the summit Nepali and American flags. Chileans were before them. They met two Russians (by Merelli), at Hillary Step met Willie Benegas and Chileans coming down; also met while returning 2 from Basque expedition.

  Team attempted first on May 16 (Merelli, Mondinelli and Pasaban), but due to bad weather returned to BC.

  The leader climbed up to 8600m on north side. Due to bad weather gave up the climb on previous expedition.

  On 16th Mondinelli tried on Lhotse (he also was on permit for Lhotse). He had to help to bring down a Korean climber from 7800m (member of two Korean and one Sherpa team). Due to lack of time then gave up the climb on Lhotse.

  Probably all the members will return for Dhaulagiri I in Sept 2001.

  Magliano 23 May reached with oxygen up to 8300m; oxygen supply system did not work and had to retreat. Jose Ramon Lasa 23 May without oxygen more or less same altitude, but had to give up due to bad weather and cold.

  The team returned to Kathmandu on May 29 except Vallejo. The team to leave on June 1. Vallejo to stay few days more.

  Dawa Sherpa, 2026 BS (31 years), father Pemba Sherpa
    Ward No. 9, Loding, Tamakhani, VDC, Solukhumbu 
    Mail GPO Box 20127 Kathmandu
    Married and has 3 year old son.

    Summit Everest North side - May 22, 1998 - Japanese Expedition
    Summit Everest South side - May 23, 2001 - International Everest Expedition.

  Source of above information Miss Pasaban Lizauibar, Mondinelli and Merelli.


expid: EVER01121
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Krishan Kumar
sponsor: Indian Army Everest Expedition
ascent1: 392,406
countries: Nepal
bcdate: 2001-04-03
smtdate: 2001-05-23
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2001-05-29
campsites: BC(03/04,5300m),C1(23/04,6000m),C2(26/04,6250m),C3(01/05,7300m),C4(21/05,7900m),Smt(23-24/05)
accidents: Rai kitchen boy edema (left expedition)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  C4 at South Col.

  3 times from BC to C2 or C3. On 2nd attempt only to C3 and down both times because of bad weather (1st time 1 or 2 May and 2nd time on 12-14 May). 3rd time arrived C2 19 May (skipped C1), to C3 20th, 21st to C4 for first time to occupy it. 21st May 10:00 pm 3 Sherpas, 9 members and 2 Sherpeas from Webster team up from C4 to reopen route from C4 to Balcony and returned C4 22nd at 1:30 am. 22nd March summit party left C4 9:30 pm (first 5 summiters) and second 5 summiters about same time but were a slower party (had been grouped together based on knowledge of their expedition). All reached summit who had started for top. 1st party on top 7:30 am, descended to C2 same day; of 2nd party Palden Giachho down to C2 with them and reached top at 8:00 am, not 9:05. Those in 2nd party stayed at C4 having been slow to get to C4 (1st party returned C4 11:00 am and on down while most of 2nd party return C4 about 4:00 pm).

  23rd May at 8:30-9:00 am, next summiters left C4 and all on top about 5:15 am next day (Pasang Rinji had stayed at Col from 20 May). All down to C2 on 24th. Hillary Step very difficult with no snow covering it. Summit was not rounded but pointed, said Nga Temba on 26 May.

  Oxygen:
  One Sherpa Pasang Rinji, who stayed at C4 from 20th to 23rd May, used oxygen sleeping in C4 each night: 3 members Kothiyal, Sharma and Shekhawat, used oxygen climbing from C3 to C4; all summiters used oxygen in C4, from C4 to top and down to C4. Oxygen also used by sick BC kitchen boy Rai at BC down to Pheriche aid post.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Pasang Tendi, 25, Kharikhola, 1st 8000er
    Nga Temba, 50, Kharikhola, Everest X2 before, Makalu and Kangchenjunga
    Lhakpa Nuru, 22, Sikli, Solukhumbu, 1st 8000er
    Dendi, 28, Gudel VDC, Solukhumbu, 1st 8000er
    Mingma Tshering, 21, Kharikhola, 1st 8000er
    Pasang Gelu, 37, Gudel VDC, Solukhumbu 1st 8000er
    Pasang Rinji, 35, Kharikhola, 1st 8000er


expid: EVER01122
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Terence Stubbs
sponsor: Adventure Extreme Everest Expedition
ascent1: 380
countries: Australia, Ireland, New Zealand
bcdate: 2001-04-09
smtdate: 2001-05-22
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2001-05-25
campsites: BC(09/04),ABC(15/04,6400m),C1(19/04,7000m),C2(19/05,7700m),C3(21/05,8100m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C3 at Simonson's tent used resting 21st.

  Summit party got Eric Simonson's permission to use tent at his C3 at 8100m, so made C3 no of own. 20th impossible to go up because bad winds so up to his C3 on 21st at midday and rested and ate there. Hunter and McDermott left C3 at 1:30 am NST 22nd May and got atop, McDermott at 10:00 am and without oxygen, Hunter with oxygen to top later about 11:00 am. Both down to C2 that night. Climb finished.

  Oxygen: 
    Dunlop used it during illness.
    Hunter used it up from C2 to Simonson's C3 tent and up from C3.
       tents to top and down to C3 tent - not in C3 tents.
    McDermott did not use any oxygen.

  5 members left expedition to return to their jobs: 
    Bash, Peel, Simpson, Staines and Stopford.

accidents:
  T. Stubbs tore ligament in knee, on way to ABC, 15 Apr and stayed in BC or rest of expedition. Dunlop bad chest infection descending from ABC, his highest point.


expid: EVER01123
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Bertrand Roche
sponsor: Antipodes Everest 2001
ascent1: 377
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 2001-04-18
smtdate: 2001-05-22
smttime: 0500
termdate: 2001-05-25
campsites: BC(01/04),ABC(19/04,5400m),C1(05/05,7400m),C2(06/05,7900m),Smt(22/05)
accidents: Gailland lung problem; Graziani stomach problem (left 21 April)
achievment: 1st paragliding descent from summit to ABC on N side
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C2 not occupied by Mr and Mrs Roche.

  21 May 10:30 pm for top - Roux on top 5:00 pm NST, Roche and Bernier Roche on top at 8:00, Trommsdorff on top 1:00 pm without oxygen. Short on oxygen so could not make another camp above 7900m. Roches on top for 2 hours taking pictures, took oxygen off to prepare gliders for flight. Took off with glider at 10:10 am and flew to ABC at ABC 10:22 am, landed safely on feet area with no problem. Very experienced in paragliding; were French champions in '97 and run own paragliding school - "brilliant flight." Roux return in BC at 3:30 pm - Christian slept at 7900m again and to ABC 23 May 1:00 with no health problem.

  21 June (email from Claire Roche): "Our flight from the summit to advance camp lasted only between 8 to 12 minutes. Our Sherpa Lhakpa Geljen, 26 years old, climbed up to 8300m but then we had a frosted regulator and he had to give me his and go down; then we were alone till the summit. We were followed by the Sherpas of Bernard Muller [another French expedition leader]. but I do not know their names." Lhakpa Geljen summited with Spaniards in 2000.


expid: EVER01124
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Walter Keller
sponsor: Anglo-American Lightweight Expedition 2001
countries: UK
bcdate: 2001-04-05
smtdate: 2001-05-23
termdate: 2001-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to oxygen missing in C3 and water bottle lost
accidents: Boelter mild pulmonary edema
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(05/04,5100m),ABC(11/04,6450m),C1(21/04,7050m),C2(16-17/05,7700m),C3(22/05,8300m),xxx(23/05,8300m)

routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  High point at C3 site.

  Weather very bad. On 15 May Keller hit with metal pipe by Stubbs' team Sherpa Jongbu because Keller thought he had agreement with Stubbs to eat with them. Keller also feels Ian Roberts, holder of permit Keller climbed on, had promised to stay till the end of May and to arrange food and transportation with Stubb's team. Instead, says Keller, Roberts "abandoned" him and Robert's basecamp manager Mrs. Kathryn Sharpe, "leaving us without BC, ABC, yak support or outgoing transportation."

  Arrival at BC on April 5 at 5100m
  ABC: (used/slept) on Apr 11 at 6450m
  C1: April 21 at 7050m North Col
  C2: 7700m first reached on May 16 or 17 (sorry I do not have my diary in front of me), slept
  C3: on May 22 (Walter Keller)
  C4: no camp utilized

  The highest point reached by the expedition was 8300m reached by Walter Keller on May 23.

  Climb abandoned due to 3 reasons:
  1. Stove missing from C2 (7600m) when I arrived, but Colombians loaned an extra.
  2. Oxygen missing from C2 (8300m).
  3. Water bottle lost.

  Fixed rope was installed most of the way above the East Rongbuk Glacier by the commercial expeditions on the north side of the mountain up to 8300m. All members of the team used the fixed rope.

  Keller was the only original member on the expedition at the end of with the exception of Kathryn Sharpe. Kathryn Sharpe acted as medical support for the World Summits expedition and stayed on the mountain to support Keller at ABC. Kathryn reached 7200m. Sherpas were hired to carry oxygen (3 bottles) to 8300m for use on summit day. But some of the oxygen was not at 8300m when I arrived. The Sherpa support did not help me reach 8300m when I arrived. I only found two bottles when I arrived at 8300m. I gave one bottle to the Columbians since they had loaned me a stove and carried the second bottle down to base camp.

  To clear the mountain I carried a 30 kg pack down and dragged a second 25 kg pack (ask Russell Brice). He watched me pack up from the North Col. No Sherpas were employed to clean the mountain.

  Walter Keller was the only member to use oxygen on the climb. He used oxygen on and off above 8000m. I turned on my oxygen for the first time somewhere between 8000m and 8100m. The rest of the members did not use oxygen.

  I was physically assaulted by Jongbu Sherpa, the sirdar of the British [Adventure Extreme] team. I was under the impression that we had a deal for me to eat with his team. He disagreed and hit me with a metal pipe two times across my arms. It was dramatic after just returning from 7700m. It occured on May 15; later Terry Stubbs, the British expedition leader suggested I should, "have a go at him" when I stressed that I felt he was as responsible as his sirdar since he condoned such outrageous and uncalled for behaviour.

  Ian Roberts, the leader of World Summits, abandoned Kathryn Sharpe and leaving us without basecamp, ABC, yak support or outgoing transportation. We had shared the permit with World Summits and had an agreement to stay till the end of May. He promised to arrange food and tranportation with the British team, but did not do what he had promised.


expid: EVER01125
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: N Col
nation: USA
leaders: Craig John
sponsor: 2001 Mallory & Irvine Research Expedition (trekkers)
termnote: Trekkers with permission to go only to N Col
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  This team of 11 members were essentially trekkers to ABC but a few went to North Col but no higher. They arrived at BC at different times and left at different times.


expid: EVER01126
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Duncan Chessell
sponsor: South Australian Everest Expedition
ascent1: 398
bcdate: 2001-04-12
smtdate: 2001-05-23
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2001-05-27
campsites: BC(12/04),ABC(16/04,6400m),C1(28/04,7000m),C2(21/05,7900m),C3(22/05,8250m),Smt(23/05)
accidents: Auricht died of stroke
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C2 on North Ridge
  C3 on North Face.

  23 May just before 1:00 Chessell, Auricht and Tshering Palden Bhote left C3 for top. Auricht to top of 3rd Step (8700m) going slowly, Chessell had gone ahead and Auricht told Tshering to catch up with Chessell. (Chessell on top 9:00 am NST, stopped an hour and just waving Nepalese flags furiously - very happy). Chessell waited 15 minutes for Tshering to come down and two on down to top of Third Step, waiting half-hour or one hour and 3 descended together to very 200m from close to C3. Chessell and Tshering down to camp to brew hot liquid. Auricht tired but otherwise fine. Auricht walked into camp. Mark feeling quite well but tired, whereas Chessell very tired: Auricht went to C2 while Chessell and Tshering stayed the night in C3. Auricht did not show up at C2 of this team, where should have arrived 7:30 pm, but wandered into Australia army tent at C2 at 1:00 am of 24th disoriented. Army put him on high oxygen flow, briefly secured to review, put him in sleeping bag and gave drinks. In the morning Auricht emerged from tent, collapsed and died (stroke). Brice's Sherpas to move his body to side of mountain and down to East Rongbuk Glacier. Chessell and Tshering to ABC 24th. Left ABC 26th and BC 27th.

  Initially reported that Auricht summited, but later determined that he probably did not summit.


  The following is the report from the expedition's website
     www.neveimages.com.au/Everest/finalreport.html

  Duncan Chessell & Scott Ferris = Advanced Base Camp

  Early in the morning of the 23rd of May Duncan, Mark and Tshering Sherpa left their high camp at 8300m bound for the summit on an excellent weather day. Duncan left first at 12:40 am followed by Mark and Tshering at 1 am, the start staggered due the tight quarters in the tent in which to boil water and get dressed.

  Mark was not feeling 100% which is not ususual due to the extreme altitude, although he slept reasonably well. Duncan and Tshering did not sleep much at all but both hit good form and were looking forward to the summit. On every other day Mark and Duncan had climbed at the same speed, so Duncan figured that stopping for half an hour would certainly allow Mark to catch up.

  After stopping twice for half an hour it became apparent Mark was not firing on all cylinders on this day and after meeting with another climber Kleron McKenzie, who had passed Mark, Duncan decided to just go for it. Reaching the summit about 9 am Duncan found a melee of about 25 climbers on the summit, many from the Nepal side. It was so crowded that it was almost impossible to get a good photograph. One man was measuring the thickness of ice on the summit with a metal stake, another calling home on his Iridium phone (I thought they were switched off at the moment). In total 45 people summited (from both sides) on that day.

  Duncan spent an hour on the summit waiting for Mark and Tshering to arrive but after this amount of time he was running out of oxygen for this section of the climb and had to leave. On the way he met Tshering rushing up with the video camera but no sponsorship flags which were all sitting in Mark's pack some 150m below.

  We had been very careful to make good plans about oxygen supplies. Each climber had 3 bottles, which would last for 6 to 6.5 hours at 2 L/min. The trick was therefore to make sure you got back within 18 hours and on the way up leave your partial to full bottles stashed so you didn't have to carry them all the whole way. This had been carefully worked out and the plan worked well.

  By the time Duncan had descended to Mark, it was apparent that Mark had neither the energy, nor the oxygen required to summit. So, very sensibly, Mark turned around and the three climbers descended to their high camp together. Mark was noticeably slower but was always within sight. Descent was slow and in fact it took just as long to descend as it had to ascend due to the large numbers of people bottle-necking the abseils on the route down.

  Arriving back at high camp (8300m) at 5 pm with about 1 hour oxygen spare, everything seemed safe and done, Duncan and Tshering were already in the tent brewing up when Mark arrived. Whilst Mark was sad at not having reached the summit, he was glad to have given it a shot. It was disappointing because in his normal good state of health he would have climbed it for sure.

  Duncan and Tshering were both very dehydrated due to problems with their water bottles (each only able to drink 1 of the 3 L they were carrying due to freezing). So they decided to stay up high while Mark thought it would be better to head down to the next camp, at the 7900m, where Pemba Nuru Sherpa was waiting with hot drinks, spare oxygen and a radio should be needed. It is best to get to lower altitudes as soon as possible. It was about 1 and 1/2 hours down the fixed ropes to the next camp and Mark had 2 to 3 hours of oxygen left in his bottle (left over from the climb from 7900m to 8300m and sleeping). So Mark set off at about 6 pm. It gets dark at about 7:15 pm so he should make it in the light or, if he went slowly, well within the time his oxygen ran out.

  We think that at some stage Mark sat down for a rest and fell asleep. This would have left him with no oxygen. He did not call on the radio for the emergency Sherpa (Pemba Nuru) to come to his assistance, but instead continued down, missed our tent, but stumbled upon an Australian Army Expedition tent. The time was now 1 am, 7 hours after leaving high camp and 4.5 hours without oxygen. The people from the Army put him up for the night, with a sleeping bag, and hot drinks. They reported he was initially disorientated but in their opinion did not have any high altitude illness, he was however very tired.

  In the morning at approximately 7:30 am, as they were preparing to leave, Mark got up from the tent, seemingly Ok, but almost instantly collapsed dead. The army team tried all they could but reviving him was a battle they could not win.

  Duncan and Tshering slept very deeply at 8300m, being very, very tired from their summit. They awoke at 4 am and headed down the ropes to the 7900m camp, having received news from Pemba Nuru Sherpa (camped at 7900m) that Mark had not arrived and had not called on the radio. So arriving at 7900m camp and not finding Mark on the way, or any broken ropes, it was all a bit of a mystery.

  Duncan began calling some of the other teams on the mountain to see if he could locate Mark. After some time the call came through from the Australian Army Expedition that Mark was in fact with them, but dead. The likely cause of death is cerebral embolism brought on by high altitude (thick blood) and exhaustion and dehydration. The speed of death and lack of prior symstoms suggests this as probable cause of death but we cannot be sure.

  Duncan, Tshering and Pemba then returned to ABC (6400m) on the 24th, all very tired and upset about Mark's death. The success of the expedition was overshadowed by Mark's death and there were no celebrations. Packing up ABC in readiness for yaks has taken on a much more sombre mood than other expeditions. It will be another week before the truck arrives in KTM and the gear is unloaded, sorted, cleaned, dried.


  Email from Duncan Chessell - Dec 20, 2001

  Mark was going very slowly and never caught up to me on the ascent on that day to the summit. He told Tshering at the top of the first step that Tshering should go on ahead quickly and that he (Mark) was going to descend back to camp. Mark did not descend he kept going up. Tshering and I met Mark at the Top of the third step when we (Tshering and Duncan) were descending. We then all descended together to C3 (8300m) Mark continued down toward C2 (7900m) alone. I think you know the rest.

  Don't think he had frostbite. I think he was only waiting at the top of the third step for 10-20 minutes when we came down. I remember asking him if he had been waiting for long and he said not long, 20 minutes or less, but who knows if this is correct if he was suffering altitude sickness or something. He was travelling very slowly all day and even though Tshering left the 20 minutes after Mark he caught him within 5 minutes on the ascent in the morning.


expid: EVER01127
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Fabrizio Zangrilli
sponsor: 2001 Ultimate Ascents Everest Expedition
countries: Australia, Canada, Mexico
bcdate: 2001-05-08
smtdate: 2001-05-24
termdate: 2001-06-01
othersmts: Attempted Cho Oyu (CHOY-011-01)
accidents: Robertson bronchial problem
agency: Asian Trekking
primid: CHOY01101
campsites:
  ChineseBC(08/05),BC(11/05,5200m),ABC(25/05,5500m),Biv(21/05,5600m),Biv(22/05,6900m),Biv(23/05,7000m),Biv(24/05,7800m),Biv(27/05,5200m)

routememo:
  BC  at Rongbuk Glacier at northeast foot of Changtse
  ABC on Rongbuk Glacier at southeast foot of Changtse
  Biv at foot of North Face
  Biv on North Face in slightly diagonal line from 1st biv
  Biv at North Col
  Biv at normal C2
  Biv at normal intermediate camp.

  1st ABC to last point yaks will reach on Rongbuk Glacier 2 days away from foot of North Col. 20th May after rest at BC from recce, moved up to ABC (5000m) and 21st to bivouac and 22nd to 2nd biv. Did not like Australian "white limbo" route directly up face because hanging seracs and snow after snowfall; it was blue ice covered by loose snow, so dangerous. So made 2nd biv up face on a slightly diagonal line to left of Australian route. 22nd was lot of rock fall above on face and had taken 14 hours reaching this biv. 23rd Zangrilli not feeling well and decided not safe (soft snow and rock fall) so traversed to North Col with falling items (Russian body, oxygen bottles and water bottles) in 7 hours. 24th Zangrilli down to normal ABC (not willing to amongst too many people) and slept in Dijmarescu's tent while Robertson went up normal route to normal C2 at 7800m and bived there. Robertson stayed at C2 for 3 nights because very strong wind. Developed bronchial problems, down to biv at 5200m on 27 May on normal route and 28 May to normal BC, where Zangrilli was waiting. 30 May and 31 May cleaned original ABC and last biv and down to Chinese BC on 31st.


expid: EVER01128
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Eric Simonson
sponsor: 2001 Mallory & Irvine Research Expedition
countries: Germany
bcdate: 2001-03-20
smtdate: 2001-05-25
termdate: 2001-05-28
termnote: Abandoned at 8700m due to oxygen supply exhausted and all tired
campsites: BC(20/03),ABC(25/03,6500m),C1(30/03,7000m),C2(21/04,7800m),C3(22/04,8200m),xxx(24/05,8700m)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
primid: EVER01129
routememo:
  Put in high camp a month before any other team. Good chance to search since no snowfall in April until about 25 April, then heavy snowfall until about 18 May. From 8200m began search by 5 climbers for 16 days and covered 18 times as much territory in 1999. After this big search, weather deteriorated. Found '22 ABC, 1924 C4 (8100m), 1933 C6, 1960 and 1975 Chinese C6 and C7. Found Norton's sock with name tag; spare Chinese tripod, 1922 crampon. 

  First series of summit attempts: 
    06 May, aborted [below ABC] by rescue of Chinese glaciologists who were near 
       death from alititude [Norton, Race, Richards]. 
    14 May to yellow band and deep snow [Hahn, Politz, Race]. 
    15 May to 7800m and too much snowfalling [Okita, Richards, Eichner, Tanguay]. 
    19 May was success of Otis and Lafrance with 4 Sherpas.

  Final Attempt 24 May:

  Hahn, Tanguay and Richards from 8200m on 24th; left camp at 1:00 am with Phu Dorje and Phu Nuru and got 3rd Step (8700m), but had encountered 3 very sick Russians (altitude and hypothermia) and spent time caring for them and then throughout had chance for top and or to look after two of Brice's members in trouble above and spent more time helping them and lost summit chance: his problem to get them (Lapkass and Guatemalean) to stand up and stay on their feet and needed strenuous help.


expid: EVER01129
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Terrence Lafrance
sponsor: Independent team (Simonson permit)
ascent1: 376
bcdate: 2001-03-30
smtdate: 2001-05-19
termdate: 2001-05-23
campsites: BC(30/03),ABC(06/04),C1(08/04,7000m),C2(08/04,7500m),C3(18/05,8300m),Smt(19/05)
achievment: 1st team to top in 2001
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  Used tents food and Sherpas of Simonson expedition. Otis and Lafrance actually climbed mostly independent of each other. Carried most of their own gear up, but Simonson Sherpas carried and put in place all oxygen as well, as common tents and food. Otis made his 1st summit bid 9 May from C2 but 80 mph winds at 8000m drove him down to ABC that day. 

  Next summit bid from 8300m camp by all 6 summiters; left camp 1:45 am (lovely night), summited, and down to 8300m about 3:00 pm but on down to 7500m by members and ABC by Sherpas.

  Sherpa summiters: 
    Mingma Ongel, Phortse, 27/3/78, 1st 8000er
    Dawa Nuru Sherpa, 26/10/78, Phortse, Everest X1 before, Manaslu, Cho Oyu
    Lhakpa Nuru, Thami, 26/9/72, Everest X1 before
    Kami Tshering, Pangboche, 1962, Everest X3 before, Cho Oyu (aka Ang Tshering)


expid: EVER01130
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Zac Zaharias
sponsor: Army Alpine Association 2001
ascent1: 413
countries: New Zealand
bcdate: 2001-04-05
smtdate: 2001-05-25
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2001-06-03
accidents: Bylart cerebral edema
agency: Wilderness Experience
campsites:
  BC(05/04),ABC(12/04,6400m),C1(27/04,7000m),C2(07/05,7500m),C3(23/05,7900m),C4(24/05,8300m),Smt(25/05)

routememo:
  Had extra camp at 7500m (as did Brice) because too great distance between 7000m and 7900m. Zaharias, Cook, Laursen, Robatham, Chuwang Nima and Nima Nuru Sherpas left C4 2:00 am on 25th and Laursen and 2 Sherpas summited at 11:00 am and back to C4. Zaharias and Cook turned around at 8750m because little late (2:00-3:00 pm) and snow started blowing covering track. Zaharias got tangled up in old ropes at bottom of 2nd Step, hanging upside down, but Cook joined him 15 minutes later and helped him out of his fix. Robatham turned around at 8600m [8450m at 1st Step] because going too slow.

  28th May summit bid by Bylart, Whetu, Killip and Grose got to 8500m, but Bylart got cerebral edema and all retreated to C4.

  [28th May summit bid by Donaldson, Hackett and McCallum aborted at 8100m between C3 and C4 due to incoming storm.]

  All members except Johnson, McMaster [and Lambert] got at least to C4 [C3?].


expid: EVER01131
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Everest Expedition 2001
ascent1: 387
countries: Australia, Canada, Denmark, France, Guatemala, Italy, Japan, Switzerland, UK, USA
bcdate: 2001-04-09
smtdate: 2001-05-23
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2001-05-31
agency: Mountain Experience
campsites:
  BC(09/04,4200m),ABC(14/04,6400m),C1(22/04,7000m),C2(30/04,7500m),C3(21/05,7900m),C4(22/05,8300m),Smt(23/05)

routememo:
  Andrew Lapkass - 3rd summit (2 South & North);
  Jaime Vinals - 1st Guatemalan ascent (finished the 7 summits) 
  Marc Siffredi - 1st descent of mountain by snowboard (summit to ABC with no rappel)
  Evelyne Binsack - 1st female Swiss ascent  
  Naoki Ishikawa - finished 7 summits and North and South Poles 
  Lobsang Temba - 3rd summit
  Karsang Namgel - 4th summit
  Phurba Tashi - 2nd summit 
  Dawa Temba - 1st 8000er summit 
  Tibetan Karsang - 1st local yakman on summit (Cho Oyu top 24/9/00)

  Summit Sherpas:
    Lobsang Temba, Khumjung, 1968, Everest X2
    Karsang Namgel, Thami (Ang Rita's son), 1971, Everest X3
    Phurba Tashi, Khumjung, about 30 years old, Everest X1
    Dawa Temba, Khumjung, 1958, his 1st 8000er
    Karsang, Chinese/Tibetan, about 41 years old, 1st ascent of Everest


expid: EVER01132
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Wilfried Studer
sponsor: Independent
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 2001-04-24
smtdate: 2001-05-25
termdate: 2001-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 8500m due to exhaustion and loss of rucksack
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(24/04,5200m),ABC(28/04,6400m),C1(01/05,7050m),C2(20/05,7600m),C3(21/05,7850m),C3(24/05,8300m),xxx(25/05,8500m)

routememo:
  C1 at deposit (not slept in)
  C2 slept in
  C3 at deposit (no sleep, back to ABC).

  May 23 - slept in C3
  May 24 - moved C3 to 8300m and slept
  May 25 - reached NE Ridge at 8500m about 06:30 NST. While resting wind 
           blew away rucksack containing everything including movie camera. 
           Back to the camp (8300m) found the sack with only a broken flask. 
           Retreated to ABC and BC on 26th.

  Very angry for not having any sort of cooperation or help from other expeditions on mountain. He is strongly against the commercial expeditions. Said never to return again.

  Returned to Kathmandu on May 30. Leaving on June 1.


expid: EVER01133
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Sergei Mingote Moreno (on David Rosa's permit)
sponsor: Independent climber
ascent1: 388
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 2001-04-09
smtdate: 2001-05-23
smttime: 0640
termdate: 2001-05-27
campsites: BC(09/04),ABC(16/04,6400m),C1(25/04,7100m),C2(26/04,7700m),C3(28/04,8300m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Mingote and Sherpa started climbing from C3 at 1 am of 23rd, reached the summit at 6:40 am of the same day, spent one hour, took photographs, come down to C3 at 1 pm of 23rd May and came further down to C2 at 3 pm and spent night there. The weather when they were on the top was beautiful. Sherpa also used oxygen above C3.

  Thilen Sherpa from Tashigaon, Makalu area, Everest top '96

  Team returned to KTM by helicopter on 29 May from Tatopani, just south of Tibet-Nepal border.


expid: EVER01134
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Ted Atkins
sponsor: Chomolungma Challenge 2001 (Royal Air Force)
ascent1: 382
bcdate: 2001-04-18
smtdate: 2001-05-22
smttime: 1110
termdate: 2001-06-09
campsites: BC(18/04),ABC(23/04,6400m),C1(03/05,7030m),C2(20/05,7700m),C3(21/05,8300m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  1st summit bid left C3 22 May 1:00 am NST: Bale and Carroll both to top at 11:10 am and down to C2. 

  Another summit bid from C3 23 May by Lennie and MacRitchie planned, but Lennie stomach trouble and they went down to ABC. 

  Next try by Atkins and Kirkpatrick planned for 24th but had to help Lennie descend; met him they going up from C2 and had to turn back. 

  2 June from C3 Atkins, Kirkpatrick and Groark; got "load of snow" and fixed rope buried no turned back at 8400m, came down on 2nd to C3 and waited till 3:00 pm on 3rd and then gave up. Main problem for climbing was too much snowfalling and on mountain. 

  This team not in position to take full advantage of brief periods of good weather. Used oxygen in and above C2 because it was a low camp and had not so many intermediate camps as other teams.


expid: EVER01135
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Bernard Muller
sponsor: Stages and Expeditions French Everest Expedition
ascent1: 379,400
countries: Kuwait
bcdate: 2001-04-10
smtdate: 2001-05-22
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2001-05-29
campsites: BC(10/04),ABC(19/04,6400m),C1(05/05,7000m),C2(20/05,7900m),C3(21/05,8300m),Smt(22-23/05)
agency: Mandala Trekking
routememo:
  22 May 4:00 am (Chinese Time) left C3 for top: Muller, Chardiny, Collet and 4 "Sherpas." Collet, Iman Gurung and Tshering Dorje Sherpa to top 10:45 am (8:30 NST); Muller and 2 Sherpas on top at 11:45 am (9:30 NST); and Chardiny at 12:00 noon. Collet on top 10 minutes after paragliders (the Roches) because crampon broken, so Collet 3rd Frenchwoman on Everest summit. All 7 down to C2 for night by French and Sherpas to ABC.

  On 23rd May Anciaux and Porte with 3 Sherpas on top 9:00-9:30 am (6:45-7:15 NST); French to C3 but Sherpas to ABC that night.

  Nepali summiters:

  22 May 
    Iman Gurung, Cho Oyu X3
    Tshering Dorje, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1, Manaslu X1
    Pema Chhiring, 17, Beding, 1st 8000er
    Chhiri, 27, Thamo, 1st 8000er

  23 May   
    Mingma Nuru, 2/20/79, Jubing, 1st 8000er
    Ang Pasang, 22/7/69, Jubing
    Phinzo Norbu, 40, Beding, Everest X2 (1991 + 1998)


expid: EVER01136
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Juanito Oiarzabal
sponsor: T.V. Spanish Expedition
ascent1: 395
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 2001-04-14
smtdate: 2001-05-23
smttime: 0815
termdate: 2001-05-28
campsites: BC(19/04,5200m),ABC(21/04,6400m),C1(24/04,7050m),C2(07/05,7800m),C3(22/05,8300m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  Apr 24: All climbing members (Bereziartua, Garra, Latorre, Oiarzabal and
          Vallejo) slept in C1/North Col.
  May 07: All members spent night in C2.
  May 22: All members spent night in C3.
  May 23: All members and Nima left C3 at 02:00 hours. Vallejo reached 
          summit about 10:30 (CST). Oiarzabal and Nima about 12:00 (CST).
          All of them spent about half an hour on summit. Vallejo 
          went down to ABC where he arrived around 19:00 hours. Oiarzabal
          and Nima returned to C3 around 19:00 hours. They spent nignt
          in C3. Bereziartua turned back from 8600m (below first 
          step) not feeling well. Garra and Latoree also turned back from
          8500m not feeling well.

  - Oiarzabal with this ascent made all 14 8000ers without oxygen.
  - Live telecast was made only from C3. The team could not make live
    telecast from summit because one of the essential apparatus for 
    the telecast was with the member who had to retreat. They also 
    forgot to carry up other apparatus from BC.

  Weather condition was good on May 22 and 24.

  The team arrived Kathmandu on May 30 and leaving on June 3. Alvaro, the expedition director, gave two video cassettes for Miss Hawley.


expid: EVER01137
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: David Rosa
sponsor: University Polytechnic of Valencia to Everest 2001
ascent1: 409
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 2001-04-09
smtdate: 2001-05-24
smttime: 0815
termdate: 2001-05-27
campsites: BC(09/04),ABC(16/04,6400m),C1(25/04,7100m),C2(26/04,7700m),C3(28/04,8300m),Smt(24/04)
accidents: Rosa's middle finger frostbitten at C2 while coming back; Urtaran had headache and vomiting at C3
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Verdeguer, Urtaran, Rosa and Mingma Sherpa started climbing from C3 at 2 am of 24th May, reached the summit at 9:30 am [10:30 am CST from Spanish reports]. Spent half an hour, took photographs, met one Sherpa who climbed from Nepal side. They came down to C3 at 3 pm and came further down to C2 at 7 pm where they spent night. Sherpa also used oxygen from C3.

  Rosa turned back at 8650m because oxygen supply finished on 24 May in summit bid.

  Team returned to KTM from Tatopani just south of Tibet-Nepal border by helicopter on 29 May. Rosa flew back to his country two days ago.


expid: EVER01138
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Ian Roberts
sponsor: World Summits Everest North East Ridge
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 2001-04-05
smtdate: 2001-05-05
termdate: 2001-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 7550m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(05/04,5100m),ABC(11/04,6450m),C1(21/04,7100m),C2(02/05,7550m),xxx(05/05,8300m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Second attempt for summit on May 11 reached up to C1. Then gave up. The expedition's deadline was May 20. [Members' high point was 7550m according to Ian Roberts.]

  Sherpa: Purna from Taplejung

  Kathryn Sharpe stayed back at ABC.

  The expedition returned to Kathmandu on May 15. May 17 left for kayaking on Seti for three days. Returned to Kathmandu on 20 and leaving Nepal on 21.


  Notes: from Mark Lewis (Expedition Diaries):

  Roberts, Hornett and Lewis made several load carries C2 site at 7800m, but no summit attempt.

  Purna carried oxygen to C3 site at 8300m.


expid: EVER01140
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Itsuo Ota
sponsor: Y.N.G.A. Chomolongma Expedition 2001
bcdate: 2001-04-24
smtdate: 2001-05-12
termdate: 2001-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to deep snow
othersmts: Mera Peak
campsites: BC(24/04),ABC(28/04,6400m),C1(08/05,7000m),xxx.Mbrs(08/05,7000m),xxx.Hired(12/05,7300m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  2 Japanese went to North Col 3 times (8, 12 & 17 May) but no higher because of snow.

  High point at 7000m on 3 May by 2 Japanese; 7300m by Sherpas from North Col carrying loads (Pasang Tshering Sherpa & Nawang Sherpa, brothers) but not slept above North Col on 12 May.


expid: EVER01141
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Temba Tsheri Sherpa
sponsor: Independent team
ascent1: 390
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 2001-04-09
smtdate: 2001-05-23
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2001-05-27
campsites: BC(09/04),ABC(16/04,6400m),C1(25/04,7100m),C2(26/04,7700m),C3(28/04,8300m),Smt(23/05)
achievment: Youngest person atop Everest
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  In summit party push, Temba started from C2 on 21 May and left C2 for C3 on 22nd. Left C3 for top at 00:30 hours NST on 23rd, arrived at top at 7:00 am and back to ABC at 5:00 pm on 23rd.

  Oxygen used by Temba during summit push from 7900m to C3, sporadically while sleeping in C3, all the time up from C3 to top and down to C2.

  Temba started from C3 on 23 May 00:30 NST hours, a bit earlier than Mingote and Thilen Sherpa (Spanish team). He reached the summit at 7 am of the same day. He spent 10 minutes on the top. His brother Mingma went up to the North Col to receive Temba. They came down to ABC at 5 pm 23 May where they spent the night. Temba was tired and weak while coming down to ABC.

  Temba had a great feeling when he reached the summit. He is very happy theat he could break the record to youngest person atop Everest. He was a bit scared when he saw 3 dead bodies at 2nd Step. He had no water to drink on the way to the summit. He felt cold at the last camp. He could not fix harness properly because he had problem with his fingers and it was too cold. On 22nd of May, he had to sleep alone at C2 where he took ready-made food. He did not sleep well there.

  As mentioned in an article published in the Kathmandu Post of June 1, 2001 Lhakpa - a lady climber from International clearing team, gave him oxygen but as mentioned by Temba, this was not true. Temba says, Thilen was the only person from other team who helped him during his climb.

  Temba has not any plan to climb other mountains at this moment rather he will continue his study. However, he can change his mind if he gets good chance.

accidents:
  Temba had vomiting at ABC because he was allergic of Horlicks (his eyes got red at ABC but got rid of it soon)


expid: EVER01142
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Georgia
leaders: Gia Tortladze
sponsor: Independent
ascent1: 378
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 2001-04-15
smtdate: 2001-05-22
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2001-05-25
campsites: BC(15/04),ABC(20/04,6400m),C1(02/05,7000m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Never slept above C1. Gia carried all his gear but Noguchi's Sherpa established Noguchi tents and Gia slept in his tents at 7700m 20 May and at 8300m on 21 May. Gia and Tashi Sherpa left 8300m NST 2:00 am and on top 8:30 am climbing nonstop; returned to 8300m 1:00 pm, Tashi to ABC while Gia slept at 7700m and 23rd in ABC. Gia has video pix to and at top (I saw pix).


expid: EVER01144
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Singapore
leaders: David Lim
sponsor: Singapore Latin American Everest Expedition
countries: Brazil
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 2001-03-30
smtdate: 2001-05-20
termdate: 2001-05-28
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to exhaustion and weather conditions
campsites: BC(30/03),ABC(09/04,6500m),C1(23/04,7000m),xxx(20/05,7800m)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  May 19 to ABC to North Col.

  Note: Mr Lim said that the camp altitudes and Sherpas had to be coordinated with the Irvine-Mallory expedition led by Eric Simonson. Lim shared Simonson's Sherpas.

  Mr Lim is partially disabled from Guillain-Barre syndrome since June 1998.

  Team returned to KTM on May 30 and leaving on June 3.


expid: EVER01145
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Venezuela
leaders: Jose Delgado
sponsor: Venezuelan Expedition Projecto Cumbre
ascent1: 403
bcdate: 2001-04-22
smtdate: 2001-05-23
smttime: 1025
termdate: 2001-05-30
campsites: BC(22/04),ABC(26/04,6400m),C1(29/04,7000m),C2(21/05,7700m),C3(22/05,8300m),Smt(23/05)
achievment: 1st Venezuelan summiter
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C3 at North Face.

  23 May at 1:30 am NST C3 left by Calderas, Castillo, Delgado and Tobia with Pasang Tshering Sherpa and Lhakpa Thudu Sherpa. Calderas turned back at 8550m because one eye giving trouble because of altitude. Castello turned back at 8600m because lost a crampon and afraid of not good footing afterwards. On to top were Delgado and Tobia and 2 Sherpas. Summiters slept in C3 while others down to Castillo to ABC and Calderas to C1 for that night. Delgado got frostnip in fingers on summit day and had to stop many times to warm them in his armpits.


expid: EVER01146
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Ken Noguchi
sponsor: 2001 Noguchi/Asia Qomalangma Cleanup Expedition
countries: S Korea
bcdate: 2001-04-14
smtdate: 2001-05-16
termdate: 2001-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 8500m due to bad weather (snowfall)
campsites: BC(14/04),ABC(21/04,6400m),C1(05/05,7000m),C3(10/05,7700m),xxx(16/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C3 below North Ridge.

  Collected only 60 tents, 84 oxygen bottles, food tins, ropes - total 1.6 tons. Take 700 kg to Japan; 200-300 kg of this to Korean afterwards and some time to Beijing after that. 

  Noguchi comes to clean Nepal side of Everest in 2002 and 2003.

  Oxygen used medically by 2 Sherpas with AMS in C2.


expid: EVER01147
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Colombia
leaders: Juan Pablo Ruiz
sponsor: Agua Manantial Everest 2001
ascent1: 383,410
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 2001-04-07
smtdate: 2001-05-22
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2001-05-28
campsites: BC(07/04,5200m),ABC(13/04,6400m),C1(20/04,7060m),C2(20/05,7700m),C3(21/05,8300m),Smt(22,24/05)
achievment: 1st Colombian expedition to summit
agency: Ang Nuru Sherpa/Asian Trekking
routememo:
  May 22: Left C3 at 00:30 hours; summit at 11:30 hours; spent about half-hour;
          returned to C3 at about 19:30 hours. Next day to C1.
          Both slept at C2 on 20 and in C3 on 21 May.

  May 24: Left C3 at 01:30 hours; summit at 10:30 hours; spent half-hour;
          returned to C3. Next day to ABC.
          Both slept at C2 on 22nd and C3 on 23rd.

  The first to reach summit was French-Swiss Gia RAF expedition on 22nd. Second team met Spanish and Sherpas on the summit.

  The team returned to Kathmandu on May 30. They have flight reservation for 8th but will try for 1st or 2nd.


expid: EVER01148
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Dmitri Bochkov
sponsor: Russian Siberian Expedition
ascent1: 385,405,414
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 2001-04-05
smtdate: 2001-05-22
smttime: 1320
termdate: 2001-05-30
campsites: BC(05/04),ABC(10/04,6400m),C1(18/04,7000m),C2(23/04,7900m),C3(21/05,8300m),Smt(22-23,26/05)
accidents: Nothing except Nikiforov who died
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C2 at North Ridge
  C3 on North Face.

  One month of waiting because of bad weather; it was terrible. 1st summit bid from C3 at 3:00 am Chinese by Foigt, Uteshev, Kozhemyako and Zoev, but Zoev turned back at 8500m because oxygen not working and down to C2. Other 3 to top and down to C2 except Foigt who went to C3.

  2nd summit group left C3 for top at 5:30 am, one member of this group. Nikiforov was not feeling well and, as he started up, was told by others not to go up but went saying he would stay back and turned back after 4 hours; he went 8700m at top of snow; at 4:30 pm 2 summiters met him while he was descending and went down with him now as oxygen finished and he very slow; 2 members gave him oxygen and helped him down but before dark reached only 8600m between 1st and 2nd Steps. All three spent night at 8600m; now other 2 had no oxygen, gave old bottles found there there to him; 24 May Simonson team cared for them with water, tea and oxygen, and went on up, 3 Russians resumed descent very slowly, reached 200m from C3 at 5:00 pm Nikiforov collapsed and died; party moved body. [Novitski and Provatorov assisted in the rescue of the surviving summiters.]

  3rd group of 2 members left C3 2:30 am and on top 1:30 pm 26 May. Only summiters from north that day and returned to C3 at 7:00 pm and Bochkov at 7:30 pm.

  Source of above information: Bochkov


expid: EVER01149
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: Left slope of E Ridge (to 6800m)
route2: E Ridge (to 6900m)
nation: India
leaders: Santosh Yadav
sponsor: New Millenium Indian Everest Expedition 2001
countries: Nepal
bcdate: 2001-04-12
smtdate: 2001-05-20
termdate: 2001-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(12/04,5500m),ABC(16/04,5670m),C1(08/05,6100m),xxx(20/05,6900m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at Kangshung Glacier
  ABC 1 hour behind BC
  C1  just left of East Ridge
  High point at left slope of East Ridge.

  After on BC, 2 days recce and 16 April started climb on the left of intended ridge which had many hanging mushrooms and this seemed safe. Went 6800m up difficult vertical climbing rock initially. At 6800m no route above and no campsite; reached 6800m on 28 April. Were hanging mushrooms here too (Negi, Gautam Chand, Dharmshaktu, Pal and Nadre Sherpa in this effort). Retreated from this route and no camps made on it; bivs hit by avalanches, one hit on 24th and injured 2 men slightly. 27th again avalanches ripping tents and carried down occupied tent but no injury. On 28th returned to BC. 

  Abandoned first route completely and turned to East Ridge, 1st intended route. 30 April started climb to left of ridge and made C1 here 8 May and carried on route-making. Much climbing where had to traverse in small gullies, had to go up and down in bell rocky area; some places 40 degrees and required pitons every 2-3 meters for fixed rope. Reached 6900m in this line, but could not make site for C2 of about 7500m-7600m at snowline. Down to BC on 20 May immediately (Negi, Gautam Chand, Sherpa). 

  Weather turned bad and stayed bad with white-out above BC, even at BC briefly; sunny at BC sometimes. Never had a full day of good weather throughout expedition period; even transit camp hit by serious avalanche on 16 May.

  Initially had 8 Sherpas to climb but 3 demanded more money and left expedition when Yadav refused to sign papers approving bonus.

  Yadav wants to return in autumn 20O1.


expid: EVER01150
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Stefan Gatt
sponsor: Horizont Reisen Chomolungma
ascent1: 381,396
countries: Germany, Luxembourg, USA
approach: Lhasa->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 2001-05-09
smtdate: 2001-05-22
smttime: 1045
termdate: 2001-05-28
agency: Asian Trekking (Dawa)
campsites:
  BC(09/05,11,5200m),ABC(13/05,6450),C1(19/05,7050m),C2A(20/05,7600m),C2B(7700m),C3(21/05,8200m),Smt(22-23/05)

routememo:
  Kastner and Perlia spent night in C1 on May 19.

  The expedition put up C2 at two different altitudes: At 7600m, Fasching, Fritsche, E. Gatt and S. Gatt and spent the night. At C2 7700m Kastner and Perlia spent the night. May 21: Fritsche, S. Gatt, Kastner and Perlia spent night at C3.

  May 22: Summit Bid - from C3 - Chinese Time
          Perlia left the camp at about 04:00 hours. Summit at 13:00 CST
          (10:45 NST); returned to C2 at about 21:00 hours.
          Oxygen used from C3 to summit. No idea how far he used the
          oxygen while descending.

          Fritsche and S. Gatt left the camp at 06:45 hours. Fritsche
          summited at 15:00 hours (12:45 NST). Spent half-hour on top. 
          While descending he met S. Gatt at midway of summit ridge and
          went up again with him to summit - reached at 15:45 hours.

          Fritsche returned to C3 at about 20:30 hours. S. Gatt spent
          about half-hour; returned to C3 at about 21:00 hours. S. Gatt
          descended with snowboard from 8848m to 8630m and 7600m to 6500m.
          Both spent night at C3.

          Both Fritsche and S. Gatt all the way without oxygen.

          Kastner left C3 at 03:00 hours for summit. He had to return from
          8400m as he lost his glove. He went down to C2.

  May 23: Streif left C3 at 01:30 hours. Summit at 10:30 (8:15 NST) 
          Nawang Wanchu Sherpa; spent about 30 minutes. Both returned to
          ABC about 18:00 hours. They used oxygen in C3 for sleeping and
          to the top and on descent, until the bottles were empty little
          below of C3.
   
          Fasching and E. Gatt left C3 at 04:00 hours. Summit at 13:00
          (10:45 NST); spent about 50 minutes. Returned to C2 at 21:30
          at 7900m and on 22nd at 8200m. Used oxygen for climbing from
          8200m to summit and back  again. They were together all the
          time.

  - Einwaller left the group on May 20 due to health problems.
  - Hofer left on 11th because of bad motivation; arrived at BC same day.
  - Roland Maruna returned together with Dr. Steinbock from 7300m on 21st
    because of beginning of frostbite.
  - Weitlaner returned from 8200m (C3) because of misunderstanding with a
    Sherpa, who told him that there would be a tent at 7900m - which 
    not correct. 
  - Eder left the expedition on April 20 due to a bad influenza.
  - Daniels left the expedition on May 6 due to pain in liver area and
    bad condition.
  - The team returned to KTM on May 30 and leaving on 31.


expid: EVER01143
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Gheorghe Dijmarescu, Lakpa Sherpa
sponsor: Independent (other permits)
ascent1: 399
countries: Nepal
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 2001-04-14
smtdate: 2001-05-23
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2001-05-28
campsites: BC(14/04),C3(??/05),Smt(23/05)
accidents: Bronchitis by Dijmarescu
achievment: 1st Nepali woman to summit twice
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Lakpa was on Noguchi's permit and Dijmarescu on Studer's permit, both arranged by Asian Trekking, but the two climbed together. Noguchi left oxygen for Lakpa to use. They summited on day when many others did too, Lakpa told KTM newspaper she had to wait in a queue to get to the top. This was Dijmarescu's 3rd ascent, he told another American's on the mountain, Fabrizio Zangrilli, who knew him, that he kept returning to climb Everest because he liked the achievement. He is not a real climber, said Zangrilli on 3 June, so he likes having the infrastructure installed by others and in place where he went up (he called this the utilization of resources).

  Source of above information Dawa and Ang Thukten of Asian Trekking.

  (Dijmarescu unavailable for interviews - he does not like them and Lakpa too busy before going to USA).

  Dijmarescu started at 12:30 am 22 May from 8300m, last camp; on summit at 9:30 am, on 23 May, and returned to C2 to spend the night. Returned to ABC on 24th and BC 26th.


expid: GANC01101
peakid: GANC
year: 2001
route1: W Face-N Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Juergen Schuetz
sponsor: Nepalese-German Ganchempo
approach: Kyanong->Gompo->Langtang Khola
bcdate: 2001-05-14
smtdate: 2001-05-17
termdate: 2001-05-19
campsites: BC(14/05,4450m),C1(17/05,5550m),xxx(17/05,5550m)
achievment: 1st attempt to ascend W Face
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  From BC to 5000m no snow, 5500m very deep snow to C1. From C1 saw mountain directly in front but glacier ahead to West Face. Had steps and every step there were crevasses which could not cross and going around impossible because hanging ice fields and right side deep glacier, so not possible to go up on right side. Had planned only one high camp (C1) so could not go to ridge on left which was sharp and also had crevasses and had no time for it. "Next time I think we have a little bit more time and some tents more but I think it is very difficult to cross the glacier." Maybe because in to two years possible with more members. Decided climb finished on 18 May. Did not get onto face actually. No time to try on another side of mountain.

  3 Nepalese ([non-climbing] members) to base camp only.


expid: HIML01101
peakid: HIML
year: 2001
route1: W Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Paul Campion
sponsor: Himlung Himal 2001
ascent1: 3rd,4th
countries: Sweden
approach: Marshyangdi River->Koto->Chako->Kayang->Phugaon
bcdate: 2001-04-27
smtdate: 2001-05-14
termdate: 2001-05-24
campsites: BC(27/04,4800m),C(01/05,5400m),C2(07/05,6200m),C3(13/05,6400m),Smt(14,19/05)
agency: Churen Himal Treks
routememo:
  Bc at just before moraine on west side of mountain
  C1 on moraine just before glacier
  C2 on big plateau above ridge
  C3 on West Ridge.

  First part of route on moraine to C2 crevasse and small icefall so route had to be zigzag and fixed 150m from C1 to C2. Hoped to go to top from C2, got 200m below top because very long distance on West Ridge that goes up and down and so decided to establish a C3. 14 May from C3 to top and more again on 19 May. Not technically difficult mountain and no serious dangers but very long route - from mid-May frequent snowfall.

  GPS say summit is 7145m high
  Left BC to go to Jomsom and flew to KTM.


expid: KTOK99201
peakid: KTOK
year: 1999
route1: Recon
nation: Japan
leaders: Tamotsu Ohnishi
sponsor: Osaka Alpine Club Expedition 1999 to Kangtokal
othersmts: Climbed Lunchhung Kamo East (LNKE-992-01)
campsites: BC(5700m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Expedition did no real climbing but walked up 6024m peak Lunchhung Kamo East peak in one day (7 July); BC 5700m to top to BC (10:00 am to 5:00 pm). 

  Purpose of expedition was to explore passes between Nepal and Tibet in Kanti Himal region and they checked out about 10 such passes.


  Ohnishi - Sep 1, 2003: 

  Ohnishi, Yanigahara, Chhuldim Nuru Sherpa, Kanchha Dawa Sherpa made first ascent of Yemelung Kang (6024m) on 9th July 1999 via West Ridge.


expid: KANG01101
peakid: KANG
year: 2001
route1: SW Face
nation: Poland
leaders: Piotr Pustelnik
ascent1: 57th
countries: Mexico, New Zealand, Portugal, Spain, Switzerland, USA
bcdate: 2001-04-11
smtdate: 2001-05-15
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2001-05-21
campsites: BC(11/04,5150m),C1(21/04,6300m),C2(10/05,7100m),C3(13/05,7600m),C4(14/05,7800m),Smt(15/05)
accidents: Slight frostbite; Caughron bronchitis
achievment: 1st Portuguese summiters
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Yalung Glacier
  C3 at top left of Great Shelf.

  Were two teams of climbers who cooperated but had separate food, tents, etc. Had very much snow on mountain, so deep had to fix lots of rope and have intermediate bivouacs. Summit push team A left C3 (Ponce de Leon, Schmidt and Segarra) at 11:00 pm of 14 May and other team B (Duthiers, Pustelnik and Velez) left C3 at 1:00 am in extremely bad snow with periods of bad weather.

  Team A at top, Schmidt 2:00 pm except Velez at 2:15 pm; Ponce de Leon and Segarra turned around at 3:30 am at 7900m because cold and Ponce de Leon tired. All to C2 except for Duthiers and Velez stopped at 7200m biv because too late to see properly. 

  Team B never used C4, set out from C3 for top at 1:00 am. Climbers of same team had different accounts of summit day weather - clearly not a team. 
   
  Were 2 teams: team A Pustelnik, Duthiers and Velez; team B Ponce de Leon, Segarra and Schmidt.



  16 July 2001: Segarra, in fax to me about maybe returning to Kangchenjung next year, wrote "The upper section of the first ascent route (in 1955) was full of snow, so they (this expedition's summiters) kept climbing to the West Col (8380m), through the South Ridge to the Main Summit. They did the ridge (8380m to 8586m) in 2 hours."


  Kangchenjunga a 2001 Climb by Marty Schmidt
  (taken from "The Climber" (NZAC) May 2002)

  My team members were Hector Ponce de Leon from Mexico and Araceli Segarra from Spain. The leader of the other team, with which we shared BC only, was Piotr Pustelnik from Poland. Piotr had four climbers with him, two from Switzerland, one from Portugal, and American climber RD Caughron, who unfortunately passed away on Makalu this May. The plan was to work independently from Piotr's team upon the mountain but help each other with route finding and fixing lines. Like Norman's team in 1955, we were the only expedition on Kangchenjunga. Unlike Norman's team, in which they all knew each other and had worked with each other many months before setting foot onto Kangchenjunga, our two teams were pulled together through emails, and most members had never climbed together. The modern ways of Himalayan climbing were upon us.

  On the 2nd of April we flew by helicopter from Jiri to Ramche. The altitude was around 4500m and we were jumping into this height with no acclimatization, but we were saving 14 days by not walking in. We saw from the air our 16 Sherpas who had left 10 days before us with the remaining food and gear for our 40 days on the mountain. Our goal was the same as Norman's team: find a way up the Yalung glacier so that the Sherpas could follow us and help establish BC. Once BC was in, the goal was to find a way to the Great Shelf via the first ice face, the Hump and the second ice face.

  Our small teams of three and five people had a few issues with communication. For the most part, we did everything separately. Hector and I would lead up the first ice face, fixing about 100m of 6mm to establish C1 at 6300m. The snow was one meter deep all the way to this camp. There was the constant risk of avalanches with so much fresh snow. The next goal was to rappel 80m onto the narrow shelf that ran in to the hanging glacier below the second ice face, and fix 500m of lines to C2 at 7100m. I remember seeing old lines in these places and I thought about the expeditions that had travelled this way in the past 46 years.

  Although Hector and I did 90 percent of the work with fixing lines, trail breaking and establishing camps, we felt good inside to be able to do this for the other members. Everyday it snowed after midday. This meant the entire trail was covered over by the next day. Talk about being frustrated. We were a three person team, trying to work with five other climbers who had their own agendas. Hector and I would look at each other many times and not say a word to each other, we just got on with the work and pushed the route.

  On May 8th we departed BC for our summit bid. We were only at a height of 7100m and the Great Shelf was still unknown to us, but time was running out. We were hoping to establish C3 at around 7600m and head for the summit the next day. We moved quickly to C1, got stuck by a huge storm and rested for two days. We went to C2 under heavy snow conditions. From here we managed to make it to just below the Great Shelf, seeing a 40-50m high seracs blocking the way. The next day Hector was able to secure a new route to the far right hand side of the Great Shelf. Knowing that we were able to make it through now we went went back to C2 for a rest. On May 13th we took off for C3. It was a warm day with a lot of sunshine, and we were hoping the weather would hold for the next 24 hours. We reached our 7600m camp in the early evening and dug into a serac to secure our two person bivvy. Little did we know that in the night we would be pummelled every hour by spindrift avalanches. Because of these avalanches we had no sleep so prepared to leave for the summit that night, May 14th. Resting at 7600m  and thinking about the summit day made my inner fires burn so bright I couldn't sit still. I ended up leaving on my own at 11 pm. Hector and Araceli would be leaving right after me.

  The crisp evening sky was dazzling with millions of bright stars, each breath was felt deep in my lungs and my feet were warm in my boots. It took a few hours to make it to Piotr's tent with much wading through new deep snow. Piotr was not ready to leave and so I continued anyway. My headlamp shone bright and my mind was clear. After four more hours of climbing alone I reached 8000m along with the first light of dawn, Karenema. Some of the best feelings that I have in the mountains are while going for the summit. Like coming out of a dark cave and into the pure goodness of light.

  Piotr caught up with me using his oxygen and we tried desperately to make our way along the traverse that Norman's team had used. It was one the hardest 100m of deep snow that I have ever climbed above 8000m and we were getting nowhere. We were battling 1.5m of snow and it took us 2 hours ot climb this 100m. We were burning energy and time. So close and yet so bloody far. The time came to retreat and to find another way. Imagine how hard it was for us going back in to the unknown, not knowing if we could find anouther way. But looking back, it was the same for Norman's team on their summit days. There the first ever to be up near the summit and they forged a route in great style.

  We dropped quickly and turned our energy to the narrow gully, leading straight to the top of the West Ridge. This gully was filled to the brim, with only small sections of exposed rock. The daily snow showers wer upon us as we climbed, reducing visibility to 10m. We just kept climbing in the the unknown.

  The mixed climbing on the summit ridge of Kangchenjunga was difficult and involved but still enjoyable even at 8400m. The next three hours went by quickly. I was praying for the clouds to lift so that the the magic of the Himalayas could be seen. Now reading about Norman's ascent, he and Streather made the summit in under 4 hours from their high camp. It took me 12 hours to reach the West Ridge, then three hours of intense climbing to the summit. The time was getting towards 2 pm and when I least expected it. I was on the summit. Still engulfed with clouds, I quickly had a photo taken of me holding a picture of my two children, then I called down to Hector and Araceli on the radio to see how they were doing then headed for home, giving thanks to the great spirits of the highest mountains in the world. Hector and Araceli ended up turning around at 8000m because they were worried about their toes. Looking back now, I wish I had know about Norman Hardie and his expedition before I ascended Kangchenjunga. It would have helped me in many ways, knowing that he had also gone this way. But then again, it was an unknown adventure and I would not have had it any other way.


  Hector Ponce de Leon - 25 May 2005

  This morning I met with Norbert Joos and Hector Ponce de Leon, who had just come back from an unsuccessful attempt on Kangchenjunga. I mentioned that I expected to see Piotr Pustelnik tomorrow on his return from the South Face of Annapurna I, and in the course of our conversation, Ponce de Leon mentioned doubts about the ascent of Kangchenjunga in 2001 by Pustelnik and party.

  According to Ponce de Leon, the summit party of Pustelnik, Marty Schmidt (US), Brian Duthiers (Swiss), Miss Areceli Segarra (Spanish), Gonzalo Velez (Portugese) and Ponce de Leon (Mexican) left for the summit at midnight, but it was very cold, the wind was very strong, and there had been heavy snowfall. They were up to their knees in the deep snow. He and Areceli turned back at 4:00 am at about 8000m, while the others continued on up. He and Segarra couldn't see the others above them because clouds obscured their view. At 2:00 pm, Schmidt radioed to Ponce de Leon that they were on the summit, and they were back in Camp 2 at 6:00 pm.

  Schmidt said they had been unable to find the usual route up The Ramp, so they went over to the col between Yalung Kang and Kangchenjunga and then followed the ridge all the way to the summit after some "technical climbing." (This ridge is known to be exceedingly difficult.) However, during their trek out from base camp, Duthiers and Ponce de Leon chatted together and Duthiers said "I am not sure we were on the summit." They couldn't see ten meters ahead and simply followed the ridge for two hours and got to a flat place which Pustelnik declared to be the summit -- he said he knew it from pictures he had seen. But Duthiers' doubt arose from the fact that they had avoided the Brown Crack, which Carlos Carsolio and Erhard Loretan have said is impossible to avoid. Ponce de Leon thinks "they probably got confused -- to put it diplomatically" about what was the actual summit.


  Piotr Pustelnik - 26 May 2005

  I saw Piotr Pustelnik this morning, and he said that since the visibility on his Kangchenjunga summit day was bad, perhaps they hadn't actually reached the summit. "It is possible. It is very true" the weather was bad with "cloud and snow and wind" and "we could see only five to ten meters" ahead.

  They went to a col between Yalung Kang and Kangchenjunga, then up the West Ridge to a flat place. "We didn't know it was the top." 

  When he said the didn't have any problem with the Brown Crack, I suggested perhaps they didn't get to it. He said this is possible, and it is possible they didn't get to the summit." In this weather, everything is possible," he said.

  But he did participate the yesterday's celebrations here of the 50th anniversary of the mountain's first ascent as one of its summiters.


expid: LHOT01101
peakid: LHOT
year: 2001
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Gary Pfisterer
sponsor: International Lhotse Expedition
ascent1: 63rd
countries: Canada, Ecuador, UK
bcdate: 2001-04-07
smtdate: 2001-05-21
smttime: 1315
termdate: 2001-05-26
campsites: BC(07/04,5300m),C1(12/04,6100m),C2(16/04,6400m),C3(02/05,7200m),C4(10/05,7850m),Smt(21/05)
accidents: Moores bad fall on 21 May; Sieger viral infection
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 at West Cwm
  C3 at Lhotse Face
  C4 at Lhotse Face.

  Um (Korean) left his tents at the C4's of this expedition and others used them and put up no tents of their own. Moores made summit bid as only one from this team: left C4 7:00 am in company of 2 Poles (Anna Czerwinska and Zaluski) and Anna's Sherpa. Moores on top 1:15 pm with Zaluski: fell at about 150m at about 8300m at bottom of couloir; Zaluski saw him fall (slipped because warm soft snow compacted on his crampon and they did not hold). When stopped falling, one crampon gone, sat there in shock and immobilized by lack of crampon. He had been told by Pfisterer to stay only one night at C4 and then descend but stopped on next day; pressed on despite no alternate experience. Moro and his teammate rescued him and Moro put him on his back (Moores weighted 50 kg) and brought him to C4. Moores was on oxygen when he fell; there is no information here about his health since he was evacuated to Bangkok; he was evacuated from BC 24 May.
   
  Members left expedition as follows:
  - Bagnulo left 8 May, had enough; 
  - Erazo left 21 May with tooth problem; 
  - Fulton left 5 May to join his girlfriend back home; 
  - Morton left 6 May, was a bit old and slow and decided the West Face
    would be too much for him; 
  - Reynolds left 12 May, was not comfortable on mountain; 
  - Stevenson left 17 May, had enough after arrived at C2, no energy left.

  Pfisterer went way up to 7700m in order to collect Moores and bring him down after rescue by Moro.

  Sieger went to C4 but had to descend because of viral infection and Tonsing escorted him down from C3.

  Vallejo had intended to climb Lhotse after Everest and was on this permit, but after he summited Everest with Spanish team, whose Everest permit he was also on, he made no attempt to summit Lhotse.


  11 June 01 - Peter Walls, leader of another Lhotse team: Pfisterer's team had no Sherpas, no oxygen, even no cook at C2 and large number of inexperienced members so when one member, Thomas Moore fell, other expeditions had to rescue and care for him.


expid: LHOT01102
peakid: LHOT
year: 2001
route1: W Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Simone Moro
sponsor: Lhotse Everest Traverse 2001
ascent1: 67th
countries: Kazakhstan
bcdate: 2001-04-07
smtdate: 2001-05-23
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2001-05-27
campsites: BC(07/04),C2(10/04,6400m),C3(22/04,7400m),C4(30/04,7900m),C5(21/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C2 in West Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 at South Col
  C5 on Lhotse West Face.

  Were first people with Russia Lhotse team to reach col. 1 May down to BC and rest below BC with plan to go to C2 and C3 and summit Lhotse and traverse ridge with several diversions down West Face of Lhotse to South Col and up to Everest summit and down North Face illegally and return to Nepal side via Lha La. About 5 May returned BC and 6 May to C2. 7th May snowing so down to BC. Made 5 trips through Icefall but down because of snowfall. 

  Decided to change tactics and attempt Lhotse first and Everest second. From BC to C3 direct 6 hours 15 minutes on 20 May. Day after that went up to go to Lhotse top and reached 8000m and down to C3 because Moro started vomiting and lost strength so back to BC and again below BC to Deboche and Namche. Back for 3rd time to BC. 20 May BC to C2; 21st to C4 of Lhotse at 7900m and established this camp, ready to go Lhotse summit on 23rd. At 6:00 pm on 21st however, shouting by Zaluski (with Anna Czerwinska who saw fall by Pfisterer member Thomas Moore), so Moro immediately out to do rescue from 8000m vertically above Lhotse C3. Moro alone up to find that Moores, who was alive at 7:00 pm lying on back in deep snow which could avalanche onto C3 at any time. Moore said "leave me, don't tell mama"; had lost crampons and face bleeding. Moro climbed up with Moores on back to near bottom of couloir at 8200m and down Moro's C4, put Moores in Moro's tent, gave medicine and water. Next day Moro organized 2 Sherpas to carry down to BC. Moro stayed 2nd night in C4 to go Lhotse top from traverse to Everest. Reached 8200m and tired so down to BC while Denis went to Lhotse top. Denis on Lhotse top 23rd with other teams and down to BC same day.

  No other teams would join Moro to rescue Moores because they said would lose their chance for summit if they did. Moro told Denis Urubko, his teammate, to stay in camp because of serious avalanche danger.


  1 June 20O1 - Spanish Lhotse leader Cadiach said he joined Moro to go to help Moro rescue Moores.


expid: LHOT01103
peakid: LHOT
year: 2001
route1: W Face
nation: UK
leaders: Peta Watts
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Lhotse Expedition
ascent1: 66th
countries: Canada, Mexico, Spain, USA
bcdate: 2001-04-10
smtdate: 2001-05-23
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2001-05-27
campsites: BC(10/04),C1(14/04,6100m),C2(21/04,6500m),C3((02/05,7200m),C4(22/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on West Face of Lhotse (low C3)
  C4 on West Face.

  27 May 3 am, left C3 for top: Contreras, Ogwgn, Watts and Pasang Dawa Sherpa. On top at 10:00 am and down C4 only Watts, while other 3 summiters to C2 (too dangerous for Watts to stay in C3 and not she would not get to C2, but be tempted to stop in C3). Simone Moro's Kazakh member summited at same time as this party; Spanish afterwards.
   
  Chang stopped climbing after Babu Chiri's death. Cowen left expedition in April: found this effort too soon after Everest in 2000. Markey left BC 17 May because he had no time to stay after 20 May.

  Inaki Ochoa of Ben Webster's Everest South (Canada) climbed to C3 with this expedition and then attended to Webster's small team. When he saw there obviously no time for summiting both Lhotse and Everest because of weather, he chose to summmit Everest and did so with Webster's team.


expid: LHOT01104
peakid: LHOT
year: 2001
route1: W Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Oscar Cadiach
sponsor: Al Filo Ama Dablam & Lhotse
ascent1: 68th
bcdate: 2001-05-07
smtdate: 2001-05-23
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2001-05-25
othersmts: Climbed Ama Dablam (AMAD-011-06)
campsites: BC(07/05,5350m),C2(11/05,6500m),C3(15/05,7300m),C4(21/05,7800m),Smt(23/05)
accidents: Nothing except Callado frostbitten toes
agency: Sea to Summit Trekking
routememo:
  BC at bottom of Icefall
  C2 in West Cwm
  C3 on West Face
  C4 on West Face near rock band.

  Arrived at C4 on 21 May but summit bid delayed one day helping exhausted Polish woman into her tent at midnight of 21st, then joined Moro and Kazakh teams to go up to rescue Pfisterer's all 4 Lhotse members. Callado and Onate turned back at 8100m because cold at 9:00 am. Strong winds late morning but Cadiach and Zerain to top 12:00 noon; Cadiach returned to C3 at 5:00 pm and slept there, but Zerain arrived at C2 2:30 pm as faster than other climbers. Callado turned back with slightly frostbitten toes.

  Had planned to go to Lhotse Middle, but after Ama Dablam not enough time and equipment and days of good weather. Wanted to make C5 at 8500m at Col between two Lhotse peaks and from this C5 to go to Lhotse Middle summit.


expid: LHOT01105
peakid: LHOT
year: 2001
route1: W Face
nation: USA
leaders: Ray Yeritsian
sponsor: Independent climber
approach: Dhading->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2001-04-07
smtdate: 2001-04-18
termdate: 2001-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to bad snow and high wind
campsites: BC(07/04,5300m),C1(11/04,6100m),C2(18/04,6400m),C3(17/04,7400m),xxx(18/04,7600m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  April 24th to C1. Fell in a crevasse on way up to C1. Came out with help of crampon. April 27 Down to BC. May 8 to C1. May 9 to C2 where he stayed till 11th. Mainly heavy snow and high wind.

  Returned to KTM on May 16. Scheduled to leave on 21st but trying for early departure perhaps 19th.

  (He is originally from Armenia - migrated to USA ten years ago).


expid: LHOT01106
peakid: LHOT
year: 2001
route1: W Face
nation: Poland
leaders: Dariusz Zaluski
sponsor: Independent
ascent1: 65th
bcdate: 2001-04-06
smtdate: 2001-05-21
smttime: 1315
termdate: 2001-05-27
campsites: BC(06/04),C1(11/04,6100m),C2(18/04,6400m),C3(21/04,7300m),C4(19/05,7800m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  May 21 left C4 at 06:20; summit at 13:15 hours, spent 20 minutes on top, down to C3 at 19:30 hours.

  Zaluski returned to Kathmandu on May 30. Will leave on June 1.

  In email message to Jeevan, Zaluski said on 29 June: "I was using oxygen while breaking the trail in the couloir; I used about 1/3 of the bottle and stopped using it one hour before summit." So he used it part-time in summit bid on 21 May.


expid: LHOT01107
peakid: LHOT
year: 2001
route1: W Face
nation: Poland
leaders: Anna Czerwinska
sponsor: Independent
ascent1: 64th
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2001-04-06
smtdate: 2001-05-21
smttime: 1315
termdate: 2001-05-27
campsites: BC(06/04,5400m),C1(11/04,6100m),C2(18/04,6400m),C3(28/04,7300m),C4(19/05,7800m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  She left C4 at 05:30 hours; summit at 13:15 hours. Spent 20 minutes. Returned to C4 at about 17:30 hours. 

  Returned to Kathmandu on May 30. Leaving on June 03.

  Next expedition on Makalu or Cho Oyu in September 2001.

  Sherpa: Pasang Tshering Sherpa (Thamo) summited with leader (same person who climbed Everest with Czerwinska last year).


  Joby Ogwyn - 28 March 2007

  Joby Ogwyn reported that he summited Lhotse the day after Anna claimed that she had summited, but about 30-50 meters below the summit he found that her footprints made a U-turn, and therefore did not continue on to the summit.


expid: LHOT01108
peakid: LHOT
year: 2001
route1: W Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Park Young-Seok
sponsor: 2001 Dongguk Lhotse Expedition
ascent1: 61st
bcdate: 2001-04-11
smtdate: 2001-04-29
smttime: 1545
termdate: 2001-05-02
campsites: BC(11/04),C1(14/04,6100m),C2(20/04,6500m),C3(28/04,7300m),Smt(29/04)
accidents: Tek Bahadur frostbitten toes on 29 April; Oh same frosbitten fingers from biv
agency: Beyond Base Camp
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on West Face.

  Left C3 at 1:15 am; 1 "Sherpa" stopped 7700m (Tek Bahadur Tamang got frostbite) and on top 3:45 pm Serap Jangbu. Difficult with no snow "in couloir only rock and ice (above 8200m); windy and snow falling. Slept in C3 that night but Oh biv (because tired and slow) at bottom of couloir at 8200m; Park to C3 at 1:30 am; Oh returned to C3 6:00 am with some frostbitten fingers (will heal).

  Next: K2 end of May and on top end of June or early July. North Pole winter 2001, South Pole winter 2002, new route on SW Face of Everest spring 2002 and in 2002 finish last 3 seven summits.

  Serap Jangbu (Khumjung) summited Kangchenjunga with Park in spring 1999.

  Park summited Lhotse in Oct 1997 but come again because "some people" in Korea questioned his ascent since he had no summit pix. Had none because team's man with camera went to top earlier and not on top when Park arrived - now has "very nice pix and video."


expid: LHOM01101
peakid: LHOM
year: 2001
route1: W Face-S Col-Lhotse N Ridge-N Face
nation: Russia
leaders: Sergei Timofeev
sponsor: Russian Lhotse Middle Expedition
ascent1: 1st-3rd
bcdate: 2001-03-29
smtdate: 2001-05-23
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2001-05-28
accidents: Bad throat for Elagin and Ezmachek; Sherpa Karma bad stomach
achievment: 1st ascent of middle summit
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(29/03),C1(06/04,6100m),C2(10/04,6500m),C3(21/04,7300m),C4(30/04,7900m),C5(22/05,8150m),Smt(23-24,27/05)

routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in West Cwm
  C3 on West Face
  C4 at South Col
  C5 at Lhotse Face.

  So many camps at C2 took 1/2 hour to go from 1st one to the highest one. 1 May started up from South Col to 8250m site for C1 at first pinnacle and left loads. 2 May same. 3 May to BC because bad weather at high altitude. 10 May up from BC and 13 May arrived South Col C4. 14 May went up from C4 to fix 300m beyond C5 sites and return to Col. 15 May bad weather and all down to BC. 17 May up again and 19 May arrived Col. 20 and 21 May from South Col to C5 carrying equipment. Others followed up from BC for extending routes and going for top. 22 May finally C5 slept in by Bolotov, Vinogradski, Kouznetsov and Timofeev and they went to top on 23 May. From South Col route lay over snow and rock to C5 and no fixed rope required. Beyond C5 fixed 1400m over snow and much rock to top some of it 65-75 degrees; final rock steep 90 degrees "very difficult." Top actually big cornice. All summiters slept in BC the day after their summit successes. First summit party left C5 at 5:30 am were on summit at 3:00 pm and returned to C5 8:00 pm. Second party left C5 at 6:30 am, on top at 12:00 noon, returned to C4 4:00 pm. Third party left C5 at 6:30 am, on top at 11:00, returned to C4 at 3:00 pm.

  Oxygen used by all summiters up from South Col (not in C4): all up from C4 to C5; not used sleeping in C5 on their way up. 1st summit party used it up from C5 to top, returning to C5 and sleeping in C5 in return from top; 2nd and 3rd parties used it up from C5 to top and down to C5 but not down from C5 to C4.


expid: LHOT01110
peakid: LHOT
year: 2001
route1: W Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Um Hong-Gil
sponsor: Korean Lhotse/Lhotse Shar
ascent1: 62nd
bcdate: 2001-05-05
smtdate: 2001-05-16
smttime: 0915
termdate: 2001-05-19
othersmts: Attempted Lhotse Shar (LSHR-011-01)
campsites: BC(05/05,5350m),C2(07/05,6400m),C4(10/05,7500m),Smt(16/05)
accidents: Only very little frostbite in toes
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C4 on Lhotse West Face.

  11 May 1st summit bid from C4 and up 300m (2-3 hours), but too windy, cloudy, snowing and returned to C4. 12th wanted to try again but very strong wind and down to C2. 13th in C2, 14th C2 to C4. 15th 2nd try for top but lightning, thunder, windy, cloudy and some snowfalling; got to 7700m and then down after 2 hours ascent back to C4. 16th morning sky clear and left C4 for top: Um, Jimba Zangbu and Ra up for top. Strong wind now but climbing to top at 9:15 Um and Jimba; 10:15 Ra on top. Climbed out of couloir to left summit, the highest one (Jimba 3 minutes after Um). Um and Jimba stayed on top taking photos and pictures in all directions from top. Jimba arrived at C4 1:00 pm and Um and Ra at 2:15 pm. All returned to C2; Um and Ra arrived C2 5:30 pm. All down to BC 17 May.

  Sherpa:
    Ang Babu Sherpa, 1975, Khumjung, 1st 8000er


expid: LHOT01109
peakid: LHOT
year: 2001
route1: Khumbu Icefall
nation: USA
leaders: Peter Athans
sponsor: National Geographic Explorer Team on Lhotse Permit
bcdate: 2001-04-26
smtdate: 2001-04-29
termdate: 2001-05-01
termnote: Did not intend to climb to summit
campsites: BC(26/04,5350m),xxx(29/04,6100m in Cwm)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC after 1 week getting to BC from Lukla
  High point in Cwm (just beyond top of Icefall).

  Touched C1 site on 29 April. Never slept above BC. Film teams took pictures of "icefall doctors" at work maintaining route virtually every day. Had no intention of going higher than beginning of Cwm.


expid: LSHR01101
peakid: LSHR
year: 2001
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Um Hong-Gil
sponsor: Korean Lhotse/Lhotse Shar
bcdate: 2001-03-24
smtdate: 2001-04-22
termdate: 2001-05-03
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to deep snow with avalanche danger
othersmts: Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-011-10)
campsites: BC(24/03,5200m),C1(28/03,5750m),C2(02/04,6000m),C3(08/04,6500m),xxx(22/04,7500m)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
primid: LHOT01110
routememo:
  Lhotse Shar: 9:00-10:00 am very cloudy and wind above 6000m and difficult to see route and dangerous and afternoon. Every day snowfalling. 12 April move route to C4 at C3. 19 April up to C4 site but avalanche had taken away most of gem so down to C3. 22 April went again to C4 with new tent, etc., to 7500m in deep snow, steep, windy; deposited gear there and down to C3. 23 April to BC to rest. 27th up to C2, 28th to C3. 29th weather bad and waited to 30th to try go up but very deep new snow and face down and dangerous from avalanche and only 1/2 hour up, then to 6000m and down to BC and Lhotse Shar climb finished. Route wear SE Ridge. Then to Khumbu for Lhotse Main peak. 

  Um intends to return to Lhotse Shar and carry on his programme to climb all 8000m subsidiary peaks.

  "Sherpas" to 7500m were:
    Pasang Namgyal Sherpa
    Pemba Tenzing Sherpa
    Ang Babu Sherpa, aka Jimba Zangbu, his name as a monk
    Lhakpa Tamang

accidents:
  Um slight frostbitten toes, one Sherpa lung problem and left expedition 10-15 April; Pemba tooth problem


expid: MAKA01101
peakid: MAKA
year: 2001
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Helmut Ortner
sponsor: Lesachtaler Makalu Expedition
ascent1: 70th,73rd
bcdate: 2001-05-01
smtdate: 2001-05-14
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2001-05-20
campsites: BC(01/05,5600m),C1(06/05,6600m),C2(13/05,7400m),Smt(14,18/05)
achievment: 1st Austrian woman summiter
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  BC at bottom of rock island dividing Chago Glacier
  C1 at Chago Glacier
  C2 at Makalu La.

  On top on 14th May; Koreans, Trippacher's team, then this team's summiters. Left C2 for top at 1:00 am, top 1:30 pm, down to C2 by Katstaller and Ruckensteiner, Alex Lugger to BC (skied from C1 to BC). 14 May Kanzian left C2 for top with summiters but feared his toes were freezing and down to BC.

  On 18 May, [Hans] Oberluggauer up to 8200m and too tired to go on and down to BC, while Ortner on to top; left C2 5:30 am and on top 4:00 pm, returned to C2 6:30 pm and slept there.

  Source of above information Ruckensteiner and Katstaller with others.


expid: MAKA01102
peakid: MAKA
year: 2001
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Erich Resch
sponsor: Corinthian Makalu Expedition
bcdate: 2001-04-29
smtdate: 2001-05-14
termdate: 2001-05-17
termnote: Abandoned at 8400m due to fatal accident (disappearance, probable fall)
campsites: BC(29/04,5600m),C2(13/05,7400m),xxx(14/05,8400m)
accidents: Resch disappeared completely
agency: Karyang Kurung Treks
routememo:
  C2 at Makalu La.

  Resch left BC 12 May to camp at 6600m; arrived Makalu La's C2 on 13 May. Left C2 with Ortner's climbers and Trippacher climber. At 8300m Katstaller and both other Ortner summiters met him going up while they descending; he was very tired; A Lugger met him at 8250m (he was ahead of Katstaller in descent) and Resch said this the only good day to go up and he was sitting at that time. Another Australian woman from Trippacher's team was the last to see Resch; he was before false summit at about 8400m and still going up but on his knees. Ortner on 18 May saw no sign of him. On his way up he had left something at about every 100m and when seen on 14th May at 8300m had no rucksack jacket nothing. Ruckensteiner thinks maybe he reached top, then fell; possibly but down again and not up again but just not seen by Ortner.

  Source of above information: Katstaller, Oberluggauer, Ruckensteiner of Ortner's expedition - 26 May 01


  Kaltenbrunner started with Resch from C4 at 5:30 am but he was slow and she climbed ahead of him from start. She saw him at 8300m at plateau ridge he looked tired and going on zagged line like drunkard. She and Denk told him several times to go down but he was determined to go to false summit only 20m lower than main summit and he went on up, Said he would meet them in C5. He was told fixed ropes above were not secure; maybe so tired he sat down and died; maybe fell.

  Corona (Italian) - during his descent, he saw red jacket and thermos in snow along the trail; had met Resch earlier that day and Resch did not respond when Corona spoke to him - this was at 8000-8100m.

  Source of above information: 
     Trippacher, Kaltenbrunner and Denk - 20 May 01
     Giampaolo Corona, Italian Team


expid: MAKA01103
peakid: MAKA
year: 2001
route1: SE Pillar
nation: USA
leaders: Brendan Cusik
sponsor: American Makalu Expedition
bcdate: 2001-04-05
smtdate: 2001-04-21
termdate: 2001-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(05/04,5000m),Dep(14/04,5700m),ABC(17/04,6100m),xxx(21/04,7000m)
accidents: Dunmire abdominal adhesion and stopped climbing 6 May; Kehr evacuated due to AMS
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at south end of Barun Pokhari
  ABC deposit at level spot on SE Pillar's lowest section
  High point at SE Pillar.

  Jane Kehr developed altitude sickness and she and Brown evacuated by helicopter on 7 April; she had gotten sick even below BC on 4th. Brown returned to BC by chopper on 16 April. Team acclimatization climbing on mountain and went to col at 6800m on SE Ridge and up ridge at 7000m. Dunmire all way to Col and up ridge alone; Brown and Cusik dropped back at 6500m the next day 22 April. 28, 29, and 30th Kear and Mortenson went to Col also to acclimatize. 1 May Cusik alone to ABC. Brown joined him there on 3rd while on 2nd Cusik had gone to 6500m. 4th both to BC. 6th Kear and Cusik left BC for summit push; 6th night in ABC and 7th to Cusik's 6500m but weather totally deteriorated as snow started and whiteout, so down to BC and climb finished. One continuous push in alpine style to top impossible. Weather pattern of high wind and snow storms; no good weather in 2 continous days.

  Source of above information Cusik.


expid: MAKA01104
peakid: MAKA
year: 2001
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Eloy Sanchez
sponsor: Asturias Makalu Expedition
bcdate: 2001-04-02
smtdate: 2001-05-01
termdate: 2001-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 8330m due to bad weather and no time
agency: Sherpa Alpine Trekking
campsites:
  BC(02/04,4800m),ABC(05/04,5600m),C1(12/04,6200m),C2(21/04,6600m),C3(29/04,7400m),C4(30/04,7600m),xxx(01/05,8330m)

routememo:
  BC at near Barun Pokhari
  ABC at Chago Glacier
  C1 at Chago Glacier
  C2 at Chago Glacier at below steep section
  C3 at Makalu La
  C4 in snow seracs on left side of NW Ridge
  High point at left (North) side of ridge.

  1 May 3:00 am 4 left C4 for top (Ruiz de la Pena, Diez, Ang Dawa, Dawa), reached high point at 12:00 and turned back because difficult rock ahead, not roped together. No time to reach top and return to camp with bad weather coming. Returned to C4 3:30 pm, C3 at 4:30 pm and slept in C3; to ABC next day. 

  2nd summit bid by Alanso, Alvarez and Falcon with Ang Dawa and Dawa only to C3 9 or 10 May, but down because "no good weather" (wind) and "no good condition" and climb finished.


expid: MAKA01105
peakid: MAKA
year: 2001
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Guy Cotter
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Makalu Expedition 2001
ascent1: 66th
countries: Japan, UK, USA
bcdate: 2001-04-12
smtdate: 2001-05-12
smttime: 1350
termdate: 2001-05-18
campsites: BC(12/04,5600m),C1(16/04,6300m),C2(18/04,6600m),C3(23/04,7400m),C4(11/05,7600m),Smt(12/05)
accidents: Kerr torn knee ligament (left BC 22 April from KTM and home)
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC at Chago glacier higher than most BCs
  C1 at Chago glacier
  C2 at Chago glacier bottom of steepest part
  C3 at Makalu La
  C4 well to west of NW Ridge (same others).

  12 May from C4 at 4:00 am were Cotter, Ozaki, Lhakpa Dorje, Hasler, Stevens, Williams and Tenzing (no 8000ers); last 4 people turned around 7800m (Hasler and Tenzing), Stevens at 7:00 am at 7900m and Williams 11:00 am at 8090m. Williams saw difficulty above; others down because cold. Ozaki slid down with slab avalanche while climbing alone and stopped himself 50m down with no injury and continued up. Ozaki, Cotter and Lhakpa Dorje together at 1:50 pm (Chileans joined them on top after 2 minutes and met 1 more on way down). 12 May slept in C3; arrived 5:30 pm by Cotter and stayed one day C3 while others down to BC. 

  This team broke trails for all others, doing the hard work they benefited by. Iranians were in New Zealand C2 tent and had to be kicked out and moved into Austrian empty tent.


  Guy Cotter - May 12, 2001

  The AC team left C4 (7700m) for the summit at 4 am this morning in moderately windy conditions and reached the summit at 1:50 pm time. The climbers reported conditions on the summit to be windy with cloud covering their views of Everest, Ama Dablam and Baruntse. Their plan was to spend 10 minutes on the summit then return to C3. Other AC team members Bruce Hasler, Mark Williams and Robert Stevens, turned around yesterday before C4. It has taken the team 6 weeks since leaving home to get to this stage of the climb, slowly letting their bodies adjust to the altitude and moving their camps and equipment into position to make their summit attempt.

  The expedition followed the first ascent route, the "Classic" Route, which was first climbed on the 15th of May 1955 by a French team lead by Jean Franco. Makalu has had fewer than 190 ascents and has never had a repeat summit (two successful summits by the same person). Rob Hall climbed Makalu in 1995 and is the only other New Zealander to have summited. Makalu at 8463m is the fifth highest mountain in the world standing close to the Everest group at the head of the Barun valley. The summit ridge is the demarcation point indicating the border between Nepal on the Southern side and Tibet to the North.

  Update 11th May: The latest news in from Base Camp is that the AC team have all arrived safely at C4. They will rest up and review the weather at 1 am. Conditions permitting they will leave for the summit at 2:30 am.

  Update Thursday 10th May: The AC team is heading up to Makalu La today, the weather is good, clear blue skies and not much wind. We have just had the weather forecast in for the next five days which shows good summit conditions, around 18 knots on the summit for Saturday. Guy and Bryan arrived at C2 to find there tent full of water from the pre-season melt.

  Takashi opened up his tent to find two sleeping Iranian team members, he kicked them out and moved in with Rob and Guy, and Bryan took over Takashi's tent. Everyone slet well last night and started to head up to C3 around C3 around 8:30 am. It should take them about 6 hours, but due to the other teams there may be quite a few people on the ropes.

  Guy, Rob and Takashi will be using oxygen, Bruce, Mark and Bryan will not. They will sleep with oxygen at C4 and leave around 4am for the summit and should be on top around 10'ish. We will lose radio contact after C3 until they reach the summit ridge. Other teams on the move up to C3 today are the Chilean and Iranian teams. The two Austrian members going for the summit yesterday had to turn around due to bad weather.


expid: MAKA01106
peakid: MAKA
year: 2001
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Hermann Trippacher
sponsor: Friends of Nature Makalu Expedition
ascent1: 71st
bcdate: 2001-04-12
smtdate: 2001-05-14
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2001-05-17
campsites: BC(12/04,5600m),C1(21/04,6100m),C2(26/04,6500m),C3(29/04,7400m),C4(14/05,7800m),Smt(14/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at high up Chago glacier
  C1 at Chago glacier
  C2 at Chago glacier
  C3 at Makalu La
  C4 at north side of NW Ridge.

  14 May summit party left C3 for summit at midnight 13th; reached top 1:00 pm by Watschinger and Denk on top at 2:45 because left at 1:15 pm, and Kaltenbrunner at 4:00 pm after spending 2 hours in C4 warming her feet (very slight frostbite); Denk and Kaltenbrunner stopped in C4 for the night waiting for Ernst Resch while Watschinger in C3. All to BC 15 May. 

  14 May Herman Trippacher and 2 Sherpas to Makalu La, but turned back same day because he was sick (wife went to Makalu La also and down from there); Sherpas to C4 to go to top on 15 May but they turned back because weather changed and snowfalling (Sherpas Mingma and Temba, both 22 yrs old); Trippachers to BC 14th.


expid: MAKA01107
peakid: MAKA
year: 2001
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Renzo Corona
sponsor: Makalu 2001
ascent1: 72nd
bcdate: 2001-04-16
smtdate: 2001-05-14
termdate: 2001-05-19
campsites: BC(16/04),ABC(18/04,5700m),C1,C2(22/04,6700m),C3(10/05,7400m),Smt(14/05)
accidents: Renzo Corona developed bad cough and had to forego summit bid
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  ABC at left side of rocky hill in Chago Glacier
  C1  as same as New Zealand & Austrians (not slept in)
  C2  as same as New Zealand & Austrians (22 tents in C2)
  C3  at Makalu La.

  Summit party of Corona brothers to Makalu La 13 May afternoon with Austrians (Trippacher team). Renzo's bad cough got acute and stayed at C3 waiting for brother Giampolo, who left camp at midnight of 13-14 March with Austrians. But they stopped on C4 and Corona, after waiting there 1/2 hour, went on up alone but Austrians ahead and behind him. He and Austrians went around into north side of NW Ridge while Koreans went by direct time. First on top were one member of Ortner team, then Rudy Denk of Trippacher party, maybe Karl Watschinger of Trippacher, Corona, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner of Trippacher team, then he met Erich Resch (who did not respond). He returned C3 at 4:00 pm. This only summit party. Others getting fit enough slowly to try later, but group work successful with one man on top.


  20 May 2001 - Austrian Makalu members Rudolf Denk and Miss Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner said Corona did not reach summit. Denk saw him at about 8300m, a little below summit ridge. Corona was a little ahead of Denk, but Denk did not see him on top and Kalten brunner did not see him there. They are sure he could not have been on summit (Watschinger did not join conversation about Corona).

  20 May 2001 - Guy Cotter, leader of another Makalu team, understood from third Austrian summiter (Karl Watschinger), that Karl looked down from summit and saw Corona turn around at couloir below summit ridge. Karl was first of Austrian to top and neither he nor the other Austrians saw the Corona near top.

  26 May 2001 - Austrian exped led Ortner: they are sure Carona did not reach the summit but know he turned back instead.


  Mezzano, Aug 2, 2001 - Letter to Miss Hawley from Giampaolo Corona:

  I want to inform you about the circumstances happened here in Europe. Some Austrian member of the Karinzia Lechtaler Makalu Expedition talked with some journalist and they affirmed that I have never reached the summit of Makalu because they didn't meet me on their way back from summit.

  They never had the politeness to contact me for explanations and they went directly to the newspapers with their opinions.

  After this unfair behaviour thanks to the help of the president of the Suodtiroler Alpen Verein it was organised an understanding meeting in Bozen between Italians and Austrians. To represent the whole Austrian Expedition there was only one member accompanied by a not concerned highly representative member of the Oesterreichnischer Alpen Verein.

  The results of such a meeting were absolutely useless to clear the matter and the only agreement was to forsake the whole matter (though both the parties strictly kept their own position).

  Coming back to the question you wrote to me I state that I reached the main summit of Makalu, at about 8465 meters, alone, in the early afternoon of the May 14th 2001. Afterward I climbed back to Camp 3, at Makalu Lha, where, at about 16:30-17:00 I embraced again my brother Renzo (the leader, who got stuck there by a heavy cough) and the two other Italian companions that had just climbed up to Camp 3 the same day. We climbed back the whole route to the Advanced Base Camp where we happily arrived at about 22:30.


expid: MAKA01108
peakid: MAKA
year: 2001
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Chile
leaders: Carlos Bascou
sponsor: Chilean Makalu Expedition
ascent1: 67th
bcdate: 2001-04-03
smtdate: 2001-05-12
smttime: 1355
termdate: 2001-05-18
campsites: BC(03/04,5600m),C1(12/04,6300m),C2(21/04,6600-6700m),C3(10/05,7400m),C4(11/05,7600m),Smt(12/05)
achievment: 1st South American to top
agency: Nepal Himalaya
routememo:
  BC at near New Zealand & Austrian camps
  C1 at near New Zealand Camp
  C2 at near New Zealand Camp
  C3 at Makalu La
  C4 on north side of NW Ridge.

  12 May left C4 for top 4:00 am: Bascou, Gutierrez, Olivares and Stambuck with New Zealand team. Bascou to 8200m at 12:30 am foot of couloir when oxygen system problem and with clouds coming in knew he would be very slow, so waited at 8200m for teammates to summit and return. Others had arrived at bottom of couloir 9:45 am and took 3 hours to climb couloir to NW Ridge and from there to summit 1 hour more. Reached top at 1:55 pm shortly after Japanese-New Zealand team. 2 parties cooperated with fixed rope and Ozaki and Cotter more experienced at high altitude. Returned to C4 8:00 pm and 9:45 pm to sleep. This was the only summit team planned.


expid: MAKA01110
peakid: MAKA
year: 2001
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Han Wang-Yong
sponsor: Korean Makalu Expedition
ascent1: 69th
approach: Hile->Tumlingtar->Nun->Sedua->BC
bcdate: 2001-04-08
smtdate: 2001-05-14
smttime: 1215
termdate: 2001-05-17
campsites: BC(08/04,5600m),C1(11/04,6600m),C2(18/04,7400m),C3(01/05,7800m),Smt(14/05)
agency: Beyond Base Camp
routememo:
  May 14: left C3 at 01:00; summit at about 12:15 hours. Spent about 
          half-hour on top. Returned to C3 about 17:00 hours.
  May 15: to BC

  First Attempt  - May 02: had to return from below 200m from top.
  Second attempt - May 07: failed due to snow, wind and fog.

  On the summit day - they were followed by Austrian and Italian teams.
  The expedition team returned to KTM on 23 from Tumlingtar and leaving on May 25.

  Summit Sherpas:
    Mingma, July 1977, Upper Walung, Makalu VDC,
       Manaslu Spr 2000, Cho Oyu Aut 2000, brother of Chhang Dawa.
    Chhang Dawa, July-Aug 1981, from Mingma's village, 1st 8000er

  Source of above information Mr Lee Dong-Ho.


expid: MAKA01109
peakid: MAKA
year: 2001
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Iran
leaders: Sadegh Aghajani
sponsor: I.R. Iran Makalu Expedition Nepal 2001
bcdate: 2001-04-10
smtdate: 2001-05-13
smttime: 1740
termdate: 2001-05-17
termnote: Abandoned at fore-summit
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Parajuli)
campsites:
  BC(10/04,4800m),ABC(13/04,5250m),C1(21/04,6100m),C2(28/04,6500m),C3(02/05,7400m),C4(12/05,7600m),xxx(13/05,8440m)

routememo:
  BC  near Barun Pokhari
  ABC just beyond and above glacier's junction
  C1  at field of rock in Chago Glacier
  C2  at wall right of rock
  C3  at Makalu La
  C4  on glacier just to North of NW Ridge.

  Mixed climbing above C4 with difficult rock especially at about 8300m and mixed ice and rock above C4. Left C4 at 3:00 am made the route and on top at 5:40 pm. Left top 6:15 pm. Returned C4 10:00 pm, but no frostbite or other health problems (had headlamps).

  Chileans - 21 May: Iranians never fixed any rope. Took bowls from Chileans tent, took Chilean's ice axe and maybe took other items from various teams. 

  Guy Cotter, New Zealand leader - 20 May: When Cotter returned to his tent at C2, he found Iranians inside and threw them out. Iranians then went into empty Austrian tent and stayed there. Iranians left large amount of rubbish around camps.

  Summit Sherpas: 
    Lhakpa, Khumjung, 39, 1st 8000er (not 1990 Makalu summiter)
    Lhakpa Ongyal, Tumlingtar, Makalu VDC-5, 35


  Parvaneh Kazemi - 15 Feb 2015

  The Iranian team did not summit according to a subsequent book written by Reza Zarei. [In Iran, they are credited with only reaching the fore-summit 8440m.]


expid: MANA01101
peakid: MANA
year: 2001
route1: NE Face (variation)
nation: Italy
leaders: Diego Stefani
sponsor: Italian Manaslu Expedition 2001
approach: Gorkha->Arughat->Jaat->Samagaon
bcdate: 2001-04-14
smtdate: 2001-05-10
termdate: 2001-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(14/04,5000m),C1(21/04,5800m),C2(02/05,6500m),C3(08/05,6300m),xxx(10/05,7500m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  April 28 both members slept in C2. Then due to bad weather down to BC. Both were active in climbing between 23 to 28 April. May 1 Stefani spent night in C2. May 3 down to BC. May 6 way up to C1. On 7th to C2, on 8th to C3. On May 10 climbed up to 7500m and gave up. Came down to C2 and slept there. On 12th down to BC. Snow condition was bad. It was waist-high soft snow, not possible to cut through a trail.

  The team returned to KTM on May 19, probably will leave after two or three days. They were not happy with the arrangement done by the trekking agency (not having porters in time, the cook disappearing often from BC, etc.).


expid: MANA01102
peakid: MANA
year: 2001
route1: NE Face
nation: Poland
leaders: Krzysztof Tarasewicz
sponsor: Gdansko-Szczecinska-Wyprawa na Manaslu 2001
approach: Samagaon by helicopter
bcdate: 2001-04-08
smtdate: 2001-05-08
termdate: 2001-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 7450m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(08/04,4100m),C1(10/04,4800m),C2(12/04,5600m),C3(30/04,6300m),xxx(08/05,7450m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Bogodlawski, Hejke, Henschke, Juscinski and Kawiak left BC on May 10. They left KTM on 18th. The other four member returned to Kathmandu on May 20 from Dhading and will leave KTM on 25th.

  Only five members were serious about high climbing: Duda, Kawiak, Szulc, Tarasewicz and Turowiecki.


expid: MANA01103
peakid: MANA
year: 2001
route1: SE Face-SE Spur up, NE side down
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Mstislav Gorbenko
sponsor: National Expedition Ukraine-Himalaya 2001
ascent1: 76th
bcdate: 2001-04-01
smtdate: 2001-05-22
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2001-05-24
othersmts: Climbed Simnang Himal (SIMN-011-01)
accidents: Nothing serous but one member altitude sickness and one member struck by falling rock
achievment: 1st Ukrainians on top
agency: Windhorse Trekking
campsites:
  BC(01/04,3950m),ABC(10/04,5000m),C1(12/04,5500m),C2(22/04,6000m),C3(25/04,6400m),C4(01/05,6700m),C5(15/05,7300m),C6(18/05,7600m),C7(21/05,7700m),Smt(22/05)

routememo:
  BC  just north of Pung Gyan Glacier
  ABC on snow at bottom of 2000m SE wall
  C1  on SE wall/face
  C2  on SE wall/face
  C3  on top of wall at SE pillar
  C4  on SE Pillar
  C5  on SE Pillar
  C6  on SE Pillar
  C7  at summit plateau.

  SE Wall to South Pillar was 2000m high, mixed ice and rock, 80 degrees steep with much snow avalanching. C3 sited where South Wall/Face becomes a ridge, SE Pillar. South Pillar very difficult rock with thin covering of snow. Never had day of sun all day with daily snowfall for all 50 days team was there. From C6 crossed summit plateau to summit. 3 summiters started from C7 at 6:00 am and on top on at 11:00 am. Down to C7 and via normal north side route and camped at 6300m in tent they took from C7 at 7:00 pm. 23rd from 6300m to Samagaon at 2:00 am and left Samagaon by helicopter same day. 6 members went up normal route to 5100m (C1 of normal route) to help summiters descend icefall when all fixed rope had been remove by local people.


expid: PUMO01101
peakid: PUMO
year: 2001
route1: W Face-S Ridge up; E Ridge-S Face/Ridge
route2: SE Face/Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Ueli Buehler
ascent1: 133
countries: USA
bcdate: 2001-04-27
smtdate: 2001-05-07
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2001-05-08
agency: Himalayan High Country Treks
campsites:
  W-Face-BC(27/04,5200m),C1(30/04,5700m),Biv(06/05,6800m),Smt(07/05); SE-Ridge-ABC(30/04,5300m),xxx(06/05,6350m)

routememo:
  BC west of Kalapattar
  C1 at bottom of West Face northwest of point 6186m
  C2 at bottom of SE Ridge.

  1 May [Buehler and Steck] down to Pheriche from west route to rest 2 days; back to C1 on 5 May. 6 May up West Face from start north of C1 to South Ridge at 6700m: left C1 on on 6 May at 2:15 am in nearly full moon and at 7:00-7:30 on ridge and biv at 6800m on South Ridge. Face 80 degrees in spots 55-60 degree ice in most parts: snow mixed pitches. Climbed in alpine style without fixing ropes. On top at 6:00 am on 7th May; down East Ridge to East Col which took long time to reach col with many crevasses. Left top 6:30 am and at col 1:30 pm without any fixed ropes, had to change him of descent several times. From col down via fixed ropes and flags left by Germans on normal route and return to own BC at 8:30 pm.

  SE Face/Ridge ascent route: Slovak and Schild did normal route after Schlaeppi got sick and could not climb South Ridge with Schild. Schild then went to normal route with Slovak, who had intended to to this route only, but later. Left BC on 5 May to ABC above normal BC; 6 May at 1:00 am left camp for alpine-style attempt of normal route and reached 6350m on SE Face at 10:00 am and too much snow and abandoned attempt and down to normal BC. Normal route too dangerous from seracs.

  Route on new route {Buehler and Steck]: up West Face to South Ridge to summit; down East Ridge to South Face/Ridge (normal route).


expid: RAKS01101
peakid: RAKS
year: 2001
route1: E side
nation: Austria
leaders: Hubert Fritzenwallner
sponsor: Austrian Raksha Urai Expedition
approach: Seti Khola->Dahacham->north to Saipal village
bcdate: 2001-05-14
smtdate: 2001-05-19
termdate: 2001-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to avalanching and bad weather
campsites: BC(14/05,4100m),C1(17/05,5000m),xxx(19/05,5800m)
accidents: Nothing except Fritzenwallner's mild heart attack
agency: Himaland Adventure Treks
routememo:
  BC at least same as '99 but little close to Mt Dhachem Khola
  C1 at glacier at bottom of mountain's east side
  High point at bottom of icewall on east side.

  19 May Steinbichl and Oberlechner up from C1 to reach C2 site at 6000m but much snow falling (30 cm in 1/2 hour) and many avalanches. Avalanche carried them down 100m and Steinbichl lost gloves, but both men injured and waited to go back to C1 but the way was very dangerous. Had to cross slope where constant avalanching (got to C1 safely). Climb finished although waited in C1 but snow and fog continued. Stayed in C1 2 nights and then with no improvement in weather, down to BC 22 May. Route this year was an attempt to avoid an ice wall by climbing to its right to reach ridge running from summit southwards.


expid: SIMN01101
peakid: SIMN
year: 2001
route1: E Ridge from N
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Mstislav Gorbenko
sponsor: National Expedition Ukraine-Himalaya 2001
ascent1: 1st
approach: Buri Gandaki
bcdate: 2001-04-01
smtdate: 2001-05-16
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2001-05-24
othersmts: Climbed Manaslu (MANA-011-03)
campsites: BC(01/04,3950m),C1(22/04,5250m),Smt(16/05)
accidents: Nothing
achievment: 1st attempt and 1st ascent
agency: Windhorse Trekking
primid: MANA01103
routememo:
  BC as same as that for Manaslu
  C1 at col between P2 and P3.

  Went six times to C1's col for reconnaissance before making camp there. They did not try for top until received information from KTM HMG's permit granted to climb mountain. 

  15 May to C1 to go to top: Zagirnyak, Gorbenko, Leontiev and Pugachov and same 4 members for top on 16th. Ridge from Col to top difficult because snow-covered rock knife-edge ridge with some gendarmes; at end of ridge just before top was 80m-wall of rock mixed with ice and at top of wall was knife-edge short ridge. From C1 at 6:00 am to top at 4 pm and returned to C1 9:00 pm and slept there. BC 17th. From BC to C1 snow slope and some snow and ice wall with avalanching. 

  Other Manaslu team members earlier went to Col [for recon of Manaslu] but only these four actually tried to climb Simnang Himal.

  No others to Simnang Himal (P2) because all others busy with Manaslu. 


expid: TILI01101
peakid: TILI
year: 2001
route1: NE Ridge-N Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Rudi Mayr
sponsor: Austrian Tilicho Expedition
ascent1: 27th
approach: Jomsom->Mesakantu La
bcdate: 2001-04-26
smtdate: 2001-05-10
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2001-05-12
campsites: BC(26/04,5050m),C1(02/05,5850m),C2(08/05,6250m),Smt(10/05)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  Left C2 10th at 5:00 am, but high winds in afternoon slowed return. At 11:30 am weather worsening with huge cloud (thunder cloud). On at summit 4:00 through deep snow in places and no trials and had to fix rope. 20 minutes on top and then back to C2, at C2 at 9:30 pm. Difficult to find tent of C2 because cloudy and misty, then dark and had to be careful about crevasses, which problem slightly disorientated them. No more attempts for top.


expid: PUMO01102
peakid: PUMO
year: 2001
route1: SE Ridge/Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Goetz Wiegand
sponsor: Saxony Himalaya Everest Expedition 2001
bcdate: 2001-04-04
smtdate: 2001-04-23
termdate: 2001-04-29
othersmts: Climbed Everest (EVER-011-16)
campsites: BC(04/04,5300m),C1(08/04,5600m),C2(20/04,6000m),xxx(23/04,6400m)
agency: Asian Trekking
primid: EVER01116
routememo:
  BC at normal BC
  C2 at top of pillar.

  Very difficult and dangerous. Climbing all the time under hanging seracs to East Col some of which were falling often. Black ice and little snow. They fixed rope to the East Col and more would be needed on the E Ridge. This climb was a warmup for Everest, so left Pumo Ri to go to Everest BC.


expid: FIRW87301
peakid: FIRW
year: 1987
route1: WSW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Franz Kroell
sponsor: Saipal Expedition
ascent1: 1st?
countries: W Germany
approach: Dhandeldhura->Chainpur->Kanda on Seti Khola
bcdate: 1987-10-17
smtdate: 1987-10-25
termdate: 1987-10-27
othersmts: Attempted Firnkopf (FIRN-873-01) and Saipal (SAIP-873-01)
campsites: BC(17/10,4100m),C1(18/10,4700m),C2(22/10,5100m),C3(24/10,5800m),Smt(25/10)
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
primid: SAIP87301
routememo:
  Following is from a letter to E. Hawley from Franz Kroell:

  In 1987 we went to Nepal with the permit for climbing Saipal from the south: 2nd of October we start in Kathmandu (by plane to Pokhara, with lorry to Phurbe). From Phurbe (5th October) by foot (end of the road) to Chainpur (possible by plane) and to the BC 17th of October). 18th-20th of October we climbed on the SW Face of Saipal up to 6200m (steep, rotten rock).

  Then we focused our interest to the opposite side, to the West Ridge from Westlicher Firnkopf (Western Firnkopf) to Ostlicher Firnkopf (Eastern Firnkopf). The height of these two mountains is correct in your map (Austrian Saipal Expedition about 1950; Rudolph Jonas, Vienna).

  On 25th of October we climbed Westlicher Firnkopf (Fritz Mross, Germany; Ang Chopal, Nepal; Franz Kroell, Austria). We climbed from BC up an easy icefall, crossed this icefall and climbed up to the main ridge and followed exact the ridge to the very top of Westlicher Firnkopf. We stopped climbing on the summit and did not follow the ridge to Ostlicher Firnkopf and to Saipal.

  The climb up to Westlicher Firnkopf is an easy climb (Grade I and II/UIAA ice and snow up to 65 degrees, short fixed sections with few meters of rope crossing the glacier. 

achievment:
  Reached point known as Westlicher Firnkopf on W Ridge (unknown if Jonas' Austrian team reached this point in 1954)


expid: URKM99101
peakid: URKM
year: 1999
route1: W Ridge
route2: NE Face to North rib up; W Ridge down
nation: France
leaders: Francois Damilano
ascent1: 6th
ascent2: 7th
approach: Langtang valley to Syabru Bensi to Langshisa Kharka
smtdate: 1999-05-15
campsites: BC(5400m),Smt(15,18/05)
agency: None
routememo:
  BC at foot of moraine of Trupaiku Tsang Glacier

  BC is at the left bank of the river at the foot of the moraine of the Trupaiku Langshisa Tsang Glacier. Route lay along the moraine on the left side of the Glacier, 5 hours walk to the foot of the NE Face of the mountain. This was the perfect site for a base camp or an advance base camp; this team established their Advance Base Camp here.


  * Note:

  Rest should be translated from Vertical, Sept-Oct 1999, pg with sketch map.

  Jugal Himal - Urkinmang

  Previously unreported from the spring season are two ascents of this little peak immediately east of Gangchempo and south of the Langshisa Glacier. From a camp at 5400m close to Tilman's Col the French guide Francois Damilano follow country woman. Martine Girod the well known Swiss climber Vincent Sprungli and Gumbu Sherpa reached the 6151m summit on the 15th May via the West Ridge. The upper crust was quite narrow and exposed involving 10 pitches up to 80 degrees and comparable with the Brenva Spur on Mont Blanc. This outing provided a suitable background for Damilano and Sprungli to attempt the virgin NE Face three days later. This 1450m face lies to the left of the North Rib successfully signed by the Joint Japanese-Nepalese expedition of 1994. It is characterized by a long snow couloir leading to a difficult mixed section, above which the pair joined the North Rib and finished up this to the summit. The difficulties were deemed comparable with the North Face of Les Droites and the pair descended safely once more via the West Ridge.
      Urkinmang was first climbed in 1964 via the South Face by a Japanese team from Osaka University after falling on their main objective. Langtang Lirung. It then had at least three known unauthorized ascents in the 70's via the NW Ridge, the West Ridge (Swiss in 1971) and the SW Ridge. The 1994 Japanese ascent was the fifth known.


expid: DHA101304
peakid: DHA1
year: 2001
route1: NE Ridge
route2: E Face (to 6500m)
nation: Japan
leaders: Ryushi Hoshino
sponsor: Gunma Miyama Mt. Dhaulagiri Expedition 2001
ascent1: 104
bcdate: 2001-09-25
smtdate: 2001-10-11
termdate: 2001-10-20
accidents: Nazuka frostbitten fingers and left early; three members disappeared
agency: Cosmo Treks
campsites:
  BC(25/09,4700m),C1(02/10,5700m),C2(06/10,6400m),C3(7500m),Smt(11/10); EFaceBiv1(12/10,5600m),Biv2(13/10,6200m),xxx(14/10,6500m)

routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 just below NE Col (same as other teams)
  C2 on NE Ridge.
  1st biv at East Face just above a section of very thin ice
  2nd biv on East Face
  High point on East Face.

  Team first attacked NE Ridge and went up and down 3 times. Hoshino reached 7300m but only Nazuka moved up with Yamada's team and went with them to C3 at 7500m. 11 Oct Nazuka went to summit alone and got badly frostbitten fingers and left mountain while other three went to East Face. 

  They started up face on 12 Oct early in morning. Yamada's team watched them from C1 and saw them make 2 bivouacs. Yamada's team watched them on 14th at 10:00 am saw they were moving very slowly, very tired, "in no good condition." Yamada saw them at about 6400-6500m on face. They had only 3 days food supply with them. If they had managed to reach the NE Ridge at 7500m after completing their route on the face, they would have reached Yamada's C3 at 7500m on the ridge where there was a good supply of food for them and they would have been Ok (they had planned to leave the face at 7500m). Yamada believes they fell before they could reach the camp. Yamada left BC on 16 Oct with his team and now only Hoshino's cook remained in BC. The cook came to KTM [22-33 Oct] to report the three men had not returned and said on 18th and 19th there was much snowfall and very strong wind on the top. Yamada on 24th made aerial search by helicopter and saw no trace of them, no avalanching on the face.

  Hoshino and Yamada their members belonged to one big team but Yamada's party had no intention of attempting East Face.


expid: AMAD01301
peakid: AMAD
year: 2001
route1: W Spur-NW Ridge (to 6000m)
route2: NW Ridge (from its base to top)
nation: UK
leaders: Julian Cartwright
ascent2: 373
bcdate: 2001-10-25
smtdate: 2001-11-10
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2001-11-14
campsites: BC(25/10,3956m),Bivs(01-11/09/11),Smt(10/11)
accidents: Nothing except Hollinger's slight frostbite
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  4 hrs from Pangboche to start of rock of ridge. Had no fixed camps or ropes. Made ascent in one continuous push with series of bivouacs to top. Pushed up ridge on 1 Nov and first day good progress, then basically steady progress till last day to top with 600m climbed that day. 5 biv on ridge to point when West Spur joins ridge, then 3 on flat section and finally on biv on 9th at point where to North Face joins and NW Ridge at about 100m from top. "Quite technically difficult" (Scottish Grade 6). Will never be guided. Started push on 1st Nov. On top at 9:30 am in easy snow down from last biv to top. Then down to the only biv in descent at about 6200m: "football field" on very stable serac.

  Meantime Chinnery and Coull 28th started on West Spur to ridge and in 3 days got to 6000m and gave up on 1-2 Nov because of bad rock (spur joins ridge at about 6100m). Hollinger and Sharpe tried same spur to same high point on 5 Nov, but "rock hadn't got any better."


expid: AMAD01302
peakid: AMAD
year: 2001
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Claude Berube
sponsor: Ama Dablam Expedition 2001
ascent1: 372
approach: Lukla->Namche->Thyangboche
bcdate: 2001-10-23
smtdate: 2001-11-06
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2001-11-09
campsites: BC(23/10,4575m),ABC(27/10,5450m),C1(02/11,5860m),C2(04/11,6050m),Smt(06/11)
agency: Nomad Expeditions
routememo:
  BC at usual camp site.
  ABC at 5450m on the ridge, usual camp site.

  Started from C2 at 06:00 hours. Summit at 16:00 hours, spent about 10-15 minutes on top. Returned to C2 at midnight. All five members and Sherpa were climbing together and climbing was slow. At some places they had to wait for descending people for crossing their fix lines. The expedition returned to KTM on Nov 12 and is leaving on three different dates (Berube, Briere and Chenard on 14th, Chalifoux on 15th and Parentau on 20th).


expid: AMAD01303
peakid: AMAD
year: 2001
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Paul Pichlmaier
sponsor: Hauptsach a Gaudi Tour 2001 to Ama Damlam
ascent1: 353,356,359
bcdate: 2001-10-10
smtdate: 2001-10-18
smttime: 1215
termdate: 2001-10-25
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(10/10),C1(12/10,5800m),C2(18/10,6050m),C3(17/10,6300m),Smt(18-19,23/10)
agency: Destination Nepal
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 same as others.

  18th summiters slept in C1 on 16th, C2 on 17th and to top 18th at about 12:15-12:30 pm (left C2 to go up at 8:30-9:00 am) and slept in C2 that night with next summit party.

  2nd party on 19th started from C2 for top at 7:15 am, on top 1:15 pm and slept in C2. 

  3rd party left C3 at 8:30 am, on top 12:00 noon and slept in C2.


expid: AMAD01304
peakid: AMAD
year: 2001
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Christoph Horester
sponsor: Stachus Ama Dablam Autumn 2001
ascent1: 350
countries: France, Japan
bcdate: 2001-09-29
smtdate: 2001-10-12
termdate: 2001-10-18
campsites: BC(29/09,4600m),C1(05/10,5800m),C2(10/10,6000m),C3(11/10,6400m),Smt(12/10)
agency: Himalayan Sherpa Adventure
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C2 at SW Ridge.

  No problems to top on 12th: good rock mixed and ice conditions and weather clears with good views for Inokuchi, Berg and Sherpas; other team members left C3 for top on 16th, but turned back 20m above C3 because no time and no food.


expid: AMAD01305
peakid: AMAD
year: 2001
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Mike Morris
sponsor: Camp 5 Ama Dablam
ascent1: 355
approach: Phakding->Namche->Khumjung->Pangboche
bcdate: 2001-10-07
smtdate: 2001-10-19
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2001-10-21
campsites: BC(07/10,4500m),ABC(12/10,5300m),C1(13/10,5750m),C2.Biv(19/10,6000m),C3(18/10,6300m),Smt(19/10)
accidents: Nelson had mild pneumonia and left expedition on Oct 15 and Nepal on 19th
achievment: 1st American to summit three times
agency: Highland Sherpa
routememo:
  BC  at 4500m at usual site
  ABC at 5300m near the spring
  C2  at 6000m on the ridge used on way down (no tent)
  C3  at 6300m below snow dome.

  The group left C3 at 09:00 hours, summited at 13:00 hours, spent 25 mins, then down to C2 at 19:00 hours.

  Hamblin went up to C2 and gave up (scared); Hunter got cold and gave up after C2.

  The members are leaving Nepal on 25 and 27. Morris will be going to Island Peak, will leave on Nov 29. The group returned to KTM on Oct 24.

  Sherpas:
    "John" Chhedar Lama, three times summiter on Ama Dablam
    Phurba Bhote from Makalu Area, Everest summit in 2001 Spring
    Lhakpa Bhote from Makalu area, Ama Dablam summiter


expid: AMAD01306
peakid: AMAD
year: 2001
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Douglas Grady
sponsor: 2001 American Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 361
approach: Phakding->Namche->Deboche
bcdate: 2001-10-13
smtdate: 2001-10-24
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2001-10-26
campsites: BC(13/10,5100m),ABC(15/10,5500m),C1(16/10,5800m),C2(23/10,6060m),Smt(24/10)
agency: Mountain Madness
routememo:
  On Oct 24 left C2 at 04:00 hours, summited at 11:30 hours, returned to C2 at about 16:00 hours. They were delayed due to the fix ropes used by other Americans (6 people) who were descending from C3 to C2. Weather was good except for some local clouds.

  Eide: thinks she is the youngest American women to summit Ama Dablam.


expid: AMAD01307
peakid: AMAD
year: 2001
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Jochen Haase
sponsor: Amical Alpin Ama Dablam Expedition 2001
ascent1: 351-352
countries: Austria, Switzerland
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2001-10-05
smtdate: 2001-10-17
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2001-10-21
campsites: BC(05/10,4600m),ABC(08/10,5400m),C1(09/10,5700m),C2(15/10,6100m),C3(15/10,6400m),Smt(17-18/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Oct 17: Fuess, Haase, Kaestle, Markert, Niettispach, Sontag and two Sherpas left C3 at 07:30 hours, summited between 10:30-11:30 hours, spent about 20 minutes. Markert and Niettispach went down to BC where they reached at about 18:45 hours. Haase returned to C3 around 12:00 hours. Rest of the members reached C1 about 18:30 hours. 

  Kamper left C2 same day at 07:15 hours, summited at 13:30 hours, stayed about 10 minutes, down to C3 about 14:15 hours.

  Kukla left C3 on 18th at about 07:30 hours, summited at 10:30, down to C1 about 18:00 hours. 

  Fischer up to ABC only due to acclimatization problem. 
  Reeder went up to C2 and gave up due to motivational problem. 
  Baumgaertner and Dunsch up to C2, exhausted. 

  The expedition leaves Nepal on Oct 26.

  Sherpas: 
    Chuldim, Khumjung, four times Everest summit
    Lhakpa Tshering, Khumjung, at least one time summit-Everest 2001 Spring


expid: AMAD01308
peakid: AMAD
year: 2001
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Anthony (Vic) Saunders
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 369
bcdate: 2001-10-26
smtdate: 2001-11-04
termdate: 2001-11-07
campsites: BC(26/10,4500-4600m),C1(30/10,5600m),C2(03/11,6200m),Smt(04/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C3 at usual site

  Perfect weather - blue sky every day at and above BC, but cloudy before and after.


expid: AMAD01309
peakid: AMAD
year: 2001
route1: SW Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Dean Staples
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Ama Dablam Expedition 2001
ascent1: 365
countries: USA
bcdate: 2001-10-21
smtdate: 2001-10-28
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2001-11-01
campsites: BC(21/10,4500m),C1(25/10,5700m),C2(26/10,5950m),C3(27/10,6300m),Smt(28/10)
accidents: Meyering frostbite (will heal)
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC same as all others.

  All according to routine except Meyering got all of his fingers and two toes frostbitten and was evacuated by helicopter from BC on 30 Oct; cause of frostbite perhaps was circulatory problems.


expid: AMAD01311
peakid: AMAD
year: 2001
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: International Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 354,357-358
countries: Australia, Japan, Switzerland, UK
bcdate: 2001-10-09
smtdate: 2001-10-18
termdate: 2001-10-26
campsites: BC(09/10,4600m),ABC(12/10,4950m),C1(13/10,5200m),C2(16/10,5600m),C3(17/10,6200m),Smt(18,21,23/10)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  BC at normal site above Mingbo.

  Too many ropes fixed on mountain left previously and very confusing as to which are any good and which not safe to use. Complaint by another leader that Mazur's team members were dangerously accidentally knocking off loose stones and ice probably justified: one member Ullin, had poor eye sight and might have done it; Dorje Tamang was clearing route and cleaning away loose items till Mazur told him to stop.

  Members left early as follows:

  16 Oct - Wallis sprained ankle while practicing rock climbing near BC
           Weber had bad cough throughout his time at BC and above
           Kuhles had had enough
          
  20 Oct - Bendixen had rapid heartbeat, probably caused by medication for
             high blood pressure
           Morimoto probable pulmonary edema
           Kroeker (summited on 18 Oct)

  Wallis and Mazur had intended to go directly to Tengkangpoche, but that climb was cancelled and no attempt made.


  4 Nov, 2001 

  Swiss team leader Bolt complained that Mazur's team was so slow they monopolized the ropes and campsites for a week. Bolt's team placed their C2 high at 6000m and went to top from it.

accidents:
  Morimoto probable pulmonary edema; Bendixen rapid heartbeat; Dougherty respiratory problem; Weber chronic cough; Wallis sprained ankle


expid: AMAD01312
peakid: AMAD
year: 2001
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Adolf Bichler
sponsor: Austrian Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 366,368
approach: Lukla->Namche->Thyangboche
bcdate: 2001-10-26
smtdate: 2001-10-31
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2001-11-05
othersmts: Island Peak on Oct 24
campsites: BC(26/10,4600m),C1(30/10,5800m),Smt(31/10,02/11)
agency: Edelweiss Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 4600m at usual campsite.

  Oct 31 Pfuger, Reich and Wengenbichler left the camp at 05:45 hours, summited at 11:30 hours and spent about 20 minutes, descended to BC at 15:30 hours. 

  Nov 2 Bichler and Schneider left the camp at 04:00 hours, summited at 11:00 hours and spent about 20 minutes, returned to camp at 16:00 hours. Weather was excellent. On Nov 2 it was bit windy and cold. 

  The expedition team returned to KTM on Nov 10 and will leave on 16th. The expedition team arrived in KTM on Oct 16 and left for Lukla on Oct 18.


expid: AMAD01313
peakid: AMAD
year: 2001
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Walter Hungerbuehler
sponsor: Rock & Powder Ama Dablam & Pumori Expedition
ascent1: 367,370
bcdate: 2001-10-28
smtdate: 2001-11-01
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2001-11-03
othersmts: Climbed Pumori (PUMO-013-01)
campsites: BC(28/10,4680m),C1(31/10,5800m),Smt(01,06/11)
agency: Sherpa & Swiss Adventures
routememo:
  Summit party left C1 for top 3:00 am and on top 11:00 am and back to C1 at 4:00-4:30 pm rather tired. Not difficult climb to top because all other way was fixed by other teams, but some ropes old, some new, some good, some bad. 5 members went directly from Ama Dablam to Pumori while Bischof and Steurer went to KTM.


  Lhakpa Gyalzen - 22 Sept 2002

  Steurer told him that Steurer and his "girl friend" had attempted Ama Dablam and Steurer got to summit alone - this was probably on 6 Nov.


  Taken from Website seen on 11th Nov 2004

  Bischof and Steurer left high camp at 4 am on 13 Nov. They reached 6000m at 8 am. At this point Bishof decided to turn back due to exhaustion. Steurer climbed the remaining 800m on his own and reached the summit at around noon. He arrived back at high camp just before it got dark.

  The Sherpa climbed above BC, but turned around before they reached high camp due to bad weather. He did not have adequate clothing.

  Steurer and Bischof were fed up with the cold at BC and as they were also bored, they decided to climb the mountain on 12 Nov.


expid: AMAD01314
peakid: AMAD
year: 2001
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Fabio Iacchini
sponsor: Jach Jach Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 371,374
bcdate: 2001-10-26
smtdate: 2001-11-06
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2001-11-12
campsites: BC(26/10,4650m),ABC-Depot(28/10,5300m),C1(31/10,5750m),C2(10/11,6100m),Smt(06,11/11)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Iacchini on top at 12:30 pm from C1: Iacchini, Caldarera and Rigato left C1 at 4:30 pm but other two stopped at 6500m at last crevasse because both very tired. Iacchini down to BC with others at 7:30 pm.

  2nd summit bid by Capra, Caldarera and Morandi: left C1 on 10 Nov to C2, C2 to top on 11 Nov just after British from north side.


expid: AMAD01315
peakid: AMAD
year: 2001
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Leopold Sulovsky
sponsor: Czech team to Ama Dablam
bcdate: 2001-09-18
smtdate: 2001-09-28
termdate: 2001-09-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(18/09,5000m),C1(21/09,5800m),xxx(28/09,6100m)
agency: Trekking International
routememo:
  BC above normal site at small flat area.

  Up to 6000m deep powder snow. After 1st night in C1, down to Thyangboche for 4 days. 25 Sept went up again to BC. 26th in C1, 27th slept at about 6000m after slow climb and made biv. 28th tried to climb up but powder snow made climb impossible so back to C1. Impossible in alpine style without camp above C1. Down to Thyangboche 29th.

  Stoklasova went to C1 on 21st and back to Thyangboche where she stayed till expedition finished.


expid: AMAD01316
peakid: AMAD
year: 2001
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: John Rowe
sponsor: Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Netherlands
bcdate: 2001-11-09
smtdate: 2001-11-15
termdate: 2001-11-19
campsites: BC(09/11,4560m),C1(12/11,5700m),C2(14/11,6100m),xxx(15/11,6200m)
accidents: Rowe bad chest and lung viral infection (to Pangboche aid post twice); Yates got Rowe's bug
agency: Himalayan High Country Treks
routememo:
  BC at normal site (all other expeditions there too)
  C2 on SW Ridge.

  Trekking agent said could climb until 1 Dec, 2 weeks beyond official end of autumn season but never received HMG permission to do so. So had no time to acclimatize. 15th all members except Rowe went from C2 to try for top but turned back at 6200m because slight altitude sickness which in turn was due to lack of time to climb after 15th, they were going too slowly. Slept in C1 on 15th. Rowe climbed to C1 twice. An old rope broke on descent but no one injured.

  Rowe never had a briefing from the Tourism Ministry, never saw his liaison officer.


expid: AMAD01317
peakid: AMAD
year: 2001
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Duncan Chessell
sponsor: South Australian Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 363
bcdate: 2001-10-24
smtdate: 2001-10-26
othersmts: Island, Lobuche and Pokalde (all 3 members to all summits)
campsites: NoBC,C1(24/10,5800m),C2(25/10,6000m),C3(26/10,6300m),Smt(26/10)
accidents: Hawthorne circulation problem in hands
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  C1 normal site.

  After climbing 3 other porters, went directly from Pangboche to C1 on 24 Oct. On 26 Oct Weeks and party to top while Hawthorne went to C3; summiters went to top from C2 and slept 26th night in C3. 27th to C1 and 28th to Pangboche. Were well acclimatized by previous climbs in area to one top of over 6100m.


expid: AMAD01402
peakid: AMAD
year: 2001
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Susumu Nakamura
sponsor: 2001 Yukikihyo Club Ama Dablam Expedition (Snow Leopard Club)
bcdate: 2001-11-28
smtdate: 2001-12-07
termdate: 2001-12-09
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to slow pace of climbing
othersmts: Climbed Parchamo (by 19 Nov); Tanaka and Yamamoto to Kusum Kanguru after Ama Dablam
campsites: BC(28/11,4600m),C1(03/12,5745m),Biv(06/12,6000m),xxx(07/12,6500m)
agency: Trans Himalayan Trekking (THT)
routememo:
  C1  at normal site (SW Ridge, slightly above British expedition)?
  Biv at top of red tower
  High point at West Face.

  4 Dec attacked summit: all 4 members left C1 5:30 am but climbed slowly and when reached top of red tower at 6000m at 11:30, was very far to top and decided to return C1. 6th again all 4 up, and slept in biv on top of tower at 6000m. 7th at 5:45 am up towards top; when reached 6500m on West Face, was 2:00 pm; so too late to continue up, had no tent no food, so down to biv and climb finished. Now all very tired and had no tent but nylon sheet to cover for members together - in morning -21 degrees centigrade. 8th packed up C1 and down to BC. Wanted to climb alpine style with no Sherpas, so took only one week's food for climb "was really enjoyed climbing by ourselves." Route "very hard and risky." Sometimes used ropes left from last season. Reluctantly agreed that there actually was one other team, the British, also on this mountain at same time. 

  Nakamura wants to return to Ama Dablam; now that he knows the route, he can climb it in 5 days.


  14 Dec 2001 (after Japanese interview) - Mac Mackay, British Ama Dablam leader, said his Sherpas fixed 100m of Japanese rope for the Japanese since the Japanese had no Sherpas with them.


expid: AMAD01401
peakid: AMAD
year: 2001
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Mac Mackay
sponsor: Jagged Globe Ama Dablam Expedition 2001
ascent1: 375
countries: Denmark, USA
bcdate: 2001-11-28
smtdate: 2001-12-07
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2001-12-09
campsites: BC(28/11,4600m),C1(01/12,5700m),C3(06/12,6250m),Smt(07/12)
accidents: Gott's slight frostbitten fingers and toes
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  Had emergency biv at C2 site but didn't even use it. Summit bid on 7th by Addison, Gott, Hurvig, Legate, Lyle and two Sherpas.

  Left C3 7:00 am, [Gott, Hurvig and Sherpas] on top 2:00 pm and back to C3 at 5:00 pm. All other members to C1 that day except Brown who went down on 6th and Roberts had left on 30 Nov. Fixed 100m of rope (+100m for Japanese team with their rope since this team had Sherpas to do the job and Japanese had no Sherpas). 

  Roberts left expedition 30 Nov; reached 5200m and turned back, could not go higher because too lightly built and had no energy.

  Summit Sherpas: 
    Ang Chhiring, Pangboche, no 8000ers
    Pasang Dawa, aka "Pando", Pa Dawa, Pangboche, Everest X2, Lhotse & Cho Oyu


expid: ANN301301
peakid: ANN3
year: 2001
route1: SE Pillar (to 5500m)
route2: E Ridge (to 6000m)
nation: Poland
leaders: Jacek Fluder
sponsor: Annapurna 3 Campus Adventure team
approach: Seti Khola & around gorge to E side
bcdate: 2001-09-30
smtdate: 2001-10-20
termdate: 2001-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to routes tried were not possible alpine style
campsites: BC(30/09,3600m),ABC(02/10,4700m),C1(13/10,6000m),xxx(20/10,6100m)
agency: All Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  BC at east of Machhapuchare on grass
  C1 at East Ridge, NE of pass between ANN3 and ANN4

  Went to C1 on East Ridge for acclimatization after fixing rope on their pillar to 5500m. From C1 could see pillar and decided upper part of pillar could not be climbed in alpine style with upper part very steep rock covered with snow and abandoned idea of climbing pillar about 15 Oct after one night in camp.

  Down to BC and then went up to E Ridge near their C1 site and went c100m up ridge but again not possible in alpine style (very steep) and from camp at about same place as earlier C1 made another camp to go up ridge. Had many days of bad weather (snowfall).


expid: ANN401301
peakid: ANN4
year: 2001
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Gary Hayes
sponsor: Australian Annapurna IV Expedition
bcdate: 2001-08-21
smtdate: 2001-09-22
termdate: 2001-09-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7000 due to strong winds and threatening storms
campsites: BC(21/08,3900m),ABC(28/08,4920m),C1(10/09,5420m),C2(13/09,5960m),C3(17/09,6400m),xxx(22/09,7000m)
accidents: Popcock bladder infection; Phurba Sherpa incipient altitude sickness
agency: Sea to Summit Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at Sabje Khola
  ABC on glacier
  C1  near big rock rib ridge to top
  C2  top of sharp ridge under seracs
  C3  at small gully on the Dome.

  Just below C2 and new knife-edge ridge was been created big glaciers or either side pressing together. Another change on mountain is a big buildup of snow and ice adding about 100m height to the feature known as the Dome. Route today, with change in glaciers, was 80m to east (left) of previous teams route. Most difficult technical section was between C3 and high point because crevasses had to be gone around difficult ice and same avalanches. Climb stopped when back up from rest at ABC, found C1's 4 tents full of vital equipment completely gone (2 more tents left in shatters); must have been swept by avalanche. Assembled enough equipment to make final push for top but turned around on 22 Sept in face of strong winds with major storm threatening and a Sherpa got serious altitude headache so decided to stop climb and 1 member got sick. Some Sherpas frightened after C1's disappearance. Every afternoon big clouds came in from south. Could have reached top if hadn't lost C2.


expid: ANN401302
peakid: ANN4
year: 2001
route1: NW Ridge (new rib)
nation: USA
leaders: Mark Ferris
sponsor: Tahoe Flathead Annapurna IV Fall 2001 Expedition
approach: Sabje Khola
bcdate: 2001-10-11
smtdate: 2001-10-22
termdate: 2001-10-25
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to lack of experience
campsites: BC(11/10,4550m),C1(14/10,5200m),C2(22/10,5900m),xxx(22/10,5900m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC east of Sabje Khola next to lake
  C1 on a rib going to NW Ridge
  C2 on same rib
  High point at 5900m on rib leading to NW Ridge.

  From BC to C1 is rock scrambling to rib, where pitched C1. From C2 mostly rock but higher up on glacier with steep part just below camp site. On 22nd high point of 5900m reached and "increased difficulty and lack of experience" stopped them. Mark Ferris fell into crevasse, got out of it and kept up; John Hollensteiner not experienced on so much glacier; both felt they'd had enough so down to BC same day and climb finished without actually having reached NW Ridge.


expid: ANN401303
peakid: ANN4
year: 2001
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Heinz Schauer
sponsor: Annapurna IV Expedition
ascent1: 31st
approach: Thang La
bcdate: 2001-09-24
smtdate: 2001-10-03
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2001-10-05
campsites: BC(24/09,4800m),C1(30/09,5900m),C2(01/10,6450m),C3(03/10,6950m),Smt(03/10)
agency: Barunche Treks
routememo:
  BC at high BC.

  Summiter Preysing 3 Oct slept in C2 after summit. On top 4:00-5:00 pm and in C2 in a moonlight late (11:00 pm). Not easy climb with long ridge and much wind on ridge.


expid: APIM01301
peakid: APIM
year: 2001
route1: Glacier W side of N Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Ayumi Nozawai
sponsor: Team Api 2001 (Barbarian Club)
ascent1: 7th,8th
approach: Mahakali River->Garbyang->then SSE down Api Khola to BC
bcdate: 2001-09-18
smtdate: 2001-10-06
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2001-10-15
campsites: BC(18/09,4000m),C1(25/09,5000m),C2(04/10,5800m),C3(05/10,6200m),Smt(06,08/10)
accidents: Furuya altitude sickness 20 Sept to village for 1 week
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at Api Khola
  C1 at plateau on north side
  C2 another plateau above icefall
  C3 on ice ridge.

  North Side where C1 was pitched was not steep slope of rock and grass. Between C1 and C2 was icefalls, very wide with some crevasses. C2 to C3 again glacier with crevasses and rounded ridge which is ice, not steep. Above C3 is ice face ("ittle difficult and very long way" - 250m high face), then crevasses and snow plateau and then steep to summit's snow dome. 

  6th Oct 2-man summit party left C3 at 5:30 am on top at 12:00 and slept in C3. 

  2nd attack party of other 3 climbing members took 6-1/2 hours from C3 to top and slept in C3. Found traces of others climbers having been on same route.


expid: BARU01301
peakid: BARU
year: 2001
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Siegfried Berner
sponsor: Milarepa Baruntse Expedition Nepal 2001
bcdate: 2001-10-13
smtdate: 2001-10-18
termdate: 2001-10-21
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to deep snow
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak by 4 (Wacker sick)
campsites: BC(13/10,5400m),C1(16/10,6100m),xxx(18/10,7000m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC near lake of Hunku Glacier (same as others)
  C1 just below West Col on east side of it
  High point at 7000m at SE Ridge.

  Planned to go directly to summit from C1. 2 members wanted to try for top on 17th and 2 members on 18th. On 17th Fuchs and Messner started but reached early to C2 (6700m) and turned back because of wind; returned to C1 to wait for winds to abate in for hours, but wind continued and finally same day down to BC, all now in BC. 

  18th Messner and Fuchs back to C1. 19th tried again for summit, reached about 7000m, then impossible to go further; too much deep soft snow and could not fix any rope; big cornices on ridge and too dangerous to go higher; were just below section of ridge. 

  20 Oct Wacker and Mohrs to 6800m and encountered deep snow and turned back to BC same day and climb finished.


expid: BARU01302
peakid: BARU
year: 2001
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Martin Goeggelmann
sponsor: Amical Alpin Baruntse Expedition 2001
countries: Belgium, Luxembourg, Switzerland
bcdate: 2001-10-10
smtdate: 2001-10-20
termdate: 2001-10-23
termnote: Abandoned at 6950m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(10/10,5400m),C1(15/10,6150m),C2(19/10,6630m),xxx(20/10,6950m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 5400m at lake beside Hunku Glacier
  C1 just north of west side of West Col
  C2 near start of SE Ridge
  High point at 6950m on SE Ridge.

  20 Oct tried to go to top from C2: Buescher, Dittmann, Goeggelmann, Listmann, Offner, Preuss, Selbach, Wenger, Tilin and Nima Sherpas. Started up at 4:30 am; 50m up Dittmann, Preuss, Selbach, Theiss stopped because it was very cold and they were tired; 150m up from C2, Listmann and Offner stopped where Goeggelmann came down from having gone on ahead and told them all not possible to go to top since could not fix ropes because of soft snow (had been 1 week of snow had fallen) and they went back; still up Goeggelmann, Wenger and Buescher and both Sherpas but at 6900m Wenger and Buescher and Nima stopped because Goeggelmann was waving signal to stop; he and Tilin gave up at 6950-7000m and climb now finished.


expid: BARU01303
peakid: BARU
year: 2001
route1: NW Face-N Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Rick Allen
sponsor: Scottish Baruntse Expedition
approach: Lukla->Chhukung->Imja Glacier
bcdate: 2001-10-25
smtdate: 2001-10-31
termdate: 2001-11-02
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to stonefall
campsites: BC(25/10,5300m),ABC(29/10,5280m),Biv(30/10,5640m),xxx(31/10,6000m)
agency: High Country Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at 5300m on Amphu south of Imja Glacier
  ABC on 29 Oct on glacier northeast of point 5680
  Biv at 5640m in bergschrund
  High point at NW Face.

  "Significant stonefall" bombarding them on 31st and retreated and climbs finished and back to BC same day, 1 Nov.


expid: BARU01304
peakid: BARU
year: 2001
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Luigi Trippa
sponsor: Dislivello Baruntse 2001
countries: Switzerland
approach: Lukla->Tangnag->Mera La
bcdate: 2001-10-15
smtdate: 2001-10-25
termdate: 2001-10-28
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to high wind, soft snow, dangerous route
campsites: BC(15/10,5450m),ABC(16/10,5750m),C1(18/10,6150m),C2(23/10,6550m),xxx(25/10,7000m)
accidents: Demaldi evacuated by helicopter due to back problem on 19th
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  BC  near lake
  ABC above the moraine
  C1  at West Col
  C2  before the ridge
  High point at 7000m at saddle and beginning of sharp edge ridge.

  Sorichetti went up to 5700m near to ABC and remained at BC. Righi remained at BC.

  There was very strong wind on the night of Oct 24. The returned to KTM on Nov 04 and leave on 07.


expid: BARU01305
peakid: BARU
year: 2001
route1: SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Abdou Martin
sponsor: Terres d'Aventure Baruntse Expedition
approach: Lukla->Tangnag->Mera La->Hunku Valley
bcdate: 2001-10-09
smtdate: 2001-10-18
termdate: 2001-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to soft snow conditions
campsites: BC(09/10,5300m),C1(13/10,6000m),C2(14/10,6300m),xxx(18/10,6800m
accidents: Evacuation of Tromp by helicopter from BC on Oct 12 due to pulmonary edema
agency: Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
routememo:
  BC at usual camp site
  C1 at West Col
  C2 at beginning of ridge.

  On 18th: Briol, Grive, Martin, Nima and Lhakpa Sherpas left C1 07:00 hours. Around 13:30 hours they were at first point on ridge (about 6800m), but it was difficult to move further up. Returned to C1 about 16:30 hours. 

  Returned to KTM via Amphu Lapcha-Lukla on Oct 26. Five members left Nepal on Oct 28. Martin will be on trek to Solu via Jiri after 29 and leave Nepal on Nov 9.


expid: BARU01306
peakid: BARU
year: 2001
route1: SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Gilles Buisson
sponsor: Atalante Baruntse Expedition
countries: Switzerland
approach: Phaplu->Kharikhola->Thulikharka->Tangnag->Mera La->Panch Pokhari
bcdate: 2001-10-17
smtdate: 2001-10-23
termdate: 2001-10-27
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to soft snow conditions
campsites: BC(17/10,5400m),C1(19/10,6100m),C2(22/10,6450m),xxx(23/10,7000m)
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  BC near the lake
  C1 at West Col
  C2 below the Pass.

  On Oct 24 Fulda and Marty with two Sherpas reached up to 7000m. 

  Dard and Emonet reached up to C2 on 20th and back to BC. Both got high blood pressure. Doctor from Italian expedition suggested them to remain in BC.

  The expedition returned to Kathmandu on Nov 1 and will leave Nepal on 4th.


expid: BARU01308
peakid: BARU
year: 2001
route1: SE Ridge (never reached)
nation: Spain
leaders: David Alday, Francisco Bolsa
sponsor: Expedicio A.E. Granollers/Vasco-Asturiana Baruntse 2001
bcdate: 2001-10-02
smtdate: 2001-10-08
termdate: 2001-10-14
termnote: Abandoned at 6155m due to avalanche accident
campsites: BC(02/10,5400m),xxx(08-09/10,6155m)
accidents: Coto and Rudio injured in avalanche and evacuated by helicopter
agency: Parbat Kailash Adventures Treks
routememo:
  BC near lake of Hongu Glacier
  High point at West Col.

  Two Spanish teams, one Catalan and one Basque, met in Kathmandu for first time. They decided to climb together and they combined their efforts and became one expedition.

  Avalanche accident occured on west side of West Col on 9 Oct on way to take loads to C1 site; accident when trying to fix rope - were entering couloir diagonally; rope fixed on 9th to 6100m by Basque party but end of rope at Col brought them to crevasses ahead so now on 9th new line taken. Col reached by Chavaris on 8th, on 9th Col reached by Garcia, Maldonaldo, Puigpinol, Rocias, Sanchez, Coto, Cubillas, Rubio, Garcia and Sanchez. 

  Avalanche while Coto leading effort to make diagonal line to Col after 8-man party had gone to Col and seen route ahead not good (crevasses). Coto's right leg broken, pelvis slightly broken, arm dislocated at elbow, ribs pressed against a lung making impossible to breathe well, 2 kidneys required dialysis for 3 days in KTM hospital. Rubio cuts and bruises and bruises and leg cut and bruised also; avalanche was was snow but fall in rocks. Coto fell 300m, Garcia 250m and Sanchez 90m but not hurt on snow slope. Helicopter evacuated Coto and Rudio from glacier between BC and Col at 5700m and climb finished.


expid: BARU01307
peakid: BARU
year: 2001
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Hans Peter Margritzer
sponsor: Austrian Police Mountain Guides Expedition to Baruntse
bcdate: 2001-10-19
smtdate: 2001-10-24
termdate: 2001-10-26
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to snow conditions
campsites: BC(19/10,5460m),C1(23/10,6140m),xxx(24/10,6700m)
accidents: Leader left 16 Oct with pulmonary edema; nothing else
agency: Himalayan Garden Treks
routememo:
  BC north of lake (normal area)
  C1 just on west side of West Col.

  Only Garstenauer slept in C1 and he left C1 at 6:00 am, just went up as long as he liked but did not expect to go to top. Germans had pulled ropes on 1st part of ridges and reported not possible to go to top because soft snow under thin layer of hard snow at 7000m, so this team abandoned their plans to try for top when they received such reports from this and other teams.


expid: CHOY01324
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Michael Bell
sponsor: Independent climber (on IMG permit)
ascent1: 413
bcdate: 2001-09-02
smtdate: 2001-09-26
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2001-09-30
campsites: BC(02/09),ABC(06/09,5600m),C1(12/09,6300m),C2(17/09,7000m),C3(25/09,7500m),Smt(26/09)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  Left C3 at 1:30 am alone, got top 10:30 am and down to C3 about 2:00 pm and slept in C2.

  Bell was "a difficult person to get along with" - had bad judgement and did stupid things [according to the IMG team].

  Independent climber in John Race IMG group.


  Letter to Miss Hawley
  January 3, 2002

  In answer to your questions I found the most difficult sections of the climb to be the 2 most technical parts. These were the ice wall between Camps 2 and 3 and the yellow band just above C3. Since these sections were fixed they did not present any problems to ascend. The weather was cloudy at the summit by the time I arrived. Heavy clouds prevented me from seeing Everest but I was able to top. I found the prayer flags and a black bird resembling a raven came to investigate my arrival looking for food. I did not expect to see a bird at this altitude. My oxygen ran out just above the fixed lines on the yellow band. I am not sure about my exact time of arrival at Camp 2 on the 26th. I remember having plenty of daylight to prepare hot water.


expid: CHOY01301
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: Poland
leaders: Anna Czerwinska
sponsor: Independent climber on IMG permit
ascent1: 409
bcdate: 2001-09-02
smtdate: 2001-09-25
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2001-09-29
campsites: BC(02/09),ABC(05/09,5600m),C1(08/09,6400m),C2(17/09,7050m),C3(24/09,7400m),Smt(25/09)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  From ABC started summit push 22nd Sept, to C2 23rd, to C3 24th. 25th 1:15 am (NST) Anna and Pasang Tshering started for top and on top about 9:30-10:00 am and reached prayer flags but too cloudy see mountains. Down to C2 at 4:00 pm. Good hard snow on mountain so good climbing conditions.


expid: CHOY01302
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: Mongolia
leaders: Luvsandash Boldbaatar
sponsor: First Mongolian Expedition for 8000m
bcdate: 2001-09-07
smtdate: 2001-10-04
termdate: 2001-10-10
termnote: Abandoned at 8150m due to wind-driven ice particles
campsites: BC(07/09),ABC(11/09,5600m),C1(13/09,9400m),C2(20/09,7200m),C3(03/10,7450m),xxx(04/10,8150m)
achievment: Mongolian altitude record
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Summit push reached 3 Oct C3 and 4 Oct for top. Left C3 at 10:30 pm (NST) by Boldbaatar and Sherpa Mingma Dorje Lama. Reached summit plateau about 4:00 am in very strong wind - only people to try for top that day. Stopped at plateau and turned back because wind blowing tiny pieces of ice and could not see. Slept night of 4th in C2: reached C2 with difficulty to final trail in deep soft snow. Now too tired to try again. To ABC 5th.


expid: CHOY01303
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Su-Ya
sponsor: Korean 2001 Cho Oyu-Shishapangma Expedition Flying Expedition
ascent1: 399
bcdate: 2001-08-28
smtdate: 2001-09-22
smttime: 0845
termdate: 2001-09-27
campsites: BC(28/08),ABC(31/08,5600m),C1(06/09,6250m),C2(20/09,6900m),C3(21/09,7400m),Smt(22/09)
accidents: Her Gen-Soo stomach trouble; Tarke Sherpa throat ailment
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Left for top 3:30 (Chinese time) by all 5 summiters. Reached top 11:00 am (8:45 am NST) to 12:00 and saw Everest. Returned C3 2:30 pm to 4:00 pm. Lim continued down to C2 6:30 pm. 

  Other 5 climbing members left for Korea with dead leader's body; leader got altitude sickness in ABC, went down to 5300m and slept 2 nights then up to ABC with a lama 4 Sept, stayed 4 days, then started down at 10:00 am, 200m lower, died at 11:00 am. Climb not difficult.

  Sherpa:
    Ang Phurba, 32, from Choplung/KTM, Cho Oyu X2 (claims X5)


expid: CHOY01304
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Jun Yasumura
sponsor: Cho Expedition Mountain Gorilla
ascent1: 398
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2001-08-22
smtdate: 2001-09-22
termdate: 2001-09-27
campsites: BC(22/08),ABC(28/08,5600m),C1(02/09,6200m),C2(20/09,6900m),C3(21/09,7600m),Smt(22/09)
achievment: Oldest Japanese woman summiter
agency: Rolwaling Trek
routememo:
  22 Sept down to C1 after top in very good weather and no wind; saw Everest and Lhotse all around. On 21st 3rd member turned back at 7500m, a very tired and back to C1. 23rd to ABC.

  Sherpas:
    Tamtin Sherpa, 19 Dec 1974, Beding, Cho Oyu 13/4/99
    Dawa Chhiri, aka Dawa Tshering, 19 Nov 1966, Thami, Everest X5


expid: CHOY01305
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Matjaz Pecovnik
sponsor: MAP Slovenian Trade Slovenian Expedition
ascent1: 408
countries: Croatia
bcdate: 2001-08-30
smtdate: 2001-09-25
smttime: 0920
campsites: BC(30/30),ABC(02/09,5540m),C1(09/09,6400m),C2(17/09,7100m),C3(23/09,7600m),Smt(25/09)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Pisek left C3 1:20 am (NST) for top alone, reached top 9:20 am in fog, but got to prayer flags so he was on top.

  Pecovnik did not go for top because of a "problem" with his leg, which he did not explain. 

  Kalicanin also did not try for top because he was not interested in making the effort.


expid: CHOY01306
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Akihiro Oishi
sponsor: Independent team
ascent1: 405
bcdate: 2001-09-05
smtdate: 2001-09-24
termdate: 2001-09-29
campsites: BC(05/09),ABC(5600m),C1(10/09,6400m),C2(16/09,7100m),C3(23/09,7500m),Smt(24/09)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Both members left C3 for at 2:30 am NST and on top 9:00 am and saw Everest, top of Lhotse, Xixa, etc. Down to C3 by Hiraide and C2 by Oishi with headache in C3, so better to go down. Hiraide skied from top to C3 and stayed there "very tired." Both to ABC on 25th.


expid: CHOY01307
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Osamu Tanabe
sponsor: JAC Tokai Cho Oyu Expedition 2001
ascent1: 421,425
bcdate: 2001-09-16
smtdate: 2001-10-09
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2001-10-15
campsites: BC(16/09),ABC(21/09,5650m),C1(27/09,6400m),C2(01/10,7000m),C3(08/10,7400m),Smt(09,11/10)
accidents: Tobita eye problem; no other problems
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  1st summit party of 3 members left C3 for top at 5:00 am (NST). 2 Sherpas left C2 at 3:00 am and Japanese joined them in move upwards. All on top together 9:00 am. Very strong wind and very cloudy but saw prayer flags; followed Norwegian tracks; all descended to ABC at 5:30 pm.

  11 Oct team went up to C3 on 10 Oct. Left C3 at 6:00 am and on top 9:30 am and saw Everest, but very strong wind; also slept ABC that night.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Tshering (Dawa Chhiri), Beding, Cho Oyu X3, Everest X3, Broad Peak X1
    Nima Dorje, Beding, Lhotse X1, Cho Oyu X4, Everest X6, etc


expid: CHOY01308
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Bok-Woo
sponsor: 2001 Korea Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 397
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2001-08-25
smtdate: 2001-09-22
smttime: 0725
termdate: 2001-09-27
campsites: BC(25/08,4923m),ABC(28/08,5730m),C1(06/09,6435m),C2(18/09,7195m),C3(21/09,7561m),Smt(22/09)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Sept 22 expedition members left C3 at 02:00 hours (Chinese Time). Sherpas followed at 03:00 hours. Climbing leader and Karchen Sherpa reached summit at 10:20 (8:05 NST) hours. Kim Jin-Tae reached summit at 09:40 (7:25 NST) with Nima. Ha at 11:00 (8:45 NST) hours and Kwon at 12:30 (10:15 NST) hours with Sonam. Kim descended to C2 at about 17:00 hours. Rest of the summiters returned to C3 between 15:30-18:30 hours.

  Two members of Japanese and other Korean expedition members were there on the summit almost at same time.

  Member Choi had to leave the expedition due to business problem back home. He left ABC on 17 and Nepal on 23. The expedition arrived to KTM on 28th and plans to leave Nepal on Oct 05.

  Sherpas: 
     Nima Wangchu, Khumjung, Everest spring '98 and spring '99
     Karchen Dawa, Khumjung, Everest 21/5/00 (Canadian expedition)
     Sonam Tashi, Khumjung, Cho Oyu aut '98, Everest spring 2001

  Language Problem


expid: CHOY01309
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Viki Groselj
sponsor: First Expedition of Slovenian Police Officers to Himalaya 2001
ascent1: 424
bcdate: 2001-09-18
smtdate: 2001-10-10
smttime: 1515
termdate: 2001-10-20
campsites: BC(18/09),ABC(20/09,5700m),C1(22/09,6400m),C2(26/09,7100m),C3(09/10,7500m),Smt(10/10)
accidents: Krajl cerebral edema at ABC but after 2 weeks reached C1
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  10 Oct Groselj and Rozman left C2 at 2:30 (Chinese Time) for top and [Groselj] reached top 5:30 pm (saw Everest). Easy climb in ideal weather and no problem with snow conditions. Groselj made ski descent to C2 at 8:00 pm and slept in C2 while Rozman slept in C3. Rozman stopped ascent in C3 and 11 Oct went 100m above C3 only because strong wind and down to ABC, while Groselj did ski down to C1, where snow stopped; very sad unable to ski to ABC because "easy to ski than to walk." "This a nice farewell to 8000m peaks" which he will not return to because he is 49 and and son 6 years old needs his attention. On top of Cho Oyu on same date as his 1st 8000er, Makalu, in 1975.

  15 Oct another attempt for top by Rozman and Miklavcic, but no higher than C2 because strong winds.

  An earlier summit push started 2 Oct, but no higher than C2 because snowfall and wind.

  All members reached C1 but only 6 to C2. Disappointing result since this a training effort for police.

  Karnicar left expedition on 7 Oct to return to other obligations.


expid: CHOY01310
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Josef Gell
sponsor: Gell Bavarian Cho Oyu Expedition Autumn 2001
ascent1: 422,427
countries: Switzerland
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2001-09-19
smtdate: 2001-10-09
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2001-10-13
campsites: BC(19/09,4800m),ABC(21/09,5500m),C1(24/09,6100m),C2(29/09,6900m),C3(7400m),Smt(09,18/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Bayer, Polster and Nima left C2 at 01:00 hours Nepal time, summit at about 11:00 hours, back to C2 around 15:00 hours. It was windy, cloudy and visibility was poor, thus did not spend much time on summit. Same day 3 Japanese and 2 Sherpas were also on summit before the German team.

  Spengler left C3 08:00 hours, summit at 14:30 hours, spent 1-1/2 hours on the summit. Perfect weather/little cold wind. Saw Everest and Lhotse. On the summit he saw small prayer flags, he was alone on the summit. Returned to C3 at about 16:00 hours. (Slovenian expedition leader summited on 10th). Spengler and Berger shared Slovenian camps.

  The first group (Bayer, Fuchs, Gell, Polster, Strackerjan) arrived KTM on 15th and leaving on 17. Berger and Spengler returned to KTM on 21 and to leave Nepal on Oct 26 and 25 respectively.

  Eric Berger reached up to C2. He said that is his limit. Similarly rest of the members too went up to C2. Gschwendtner left the expedition on Oct 1 due to business problem back home.


expid: CHOY01311
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Ukyo Katayama
sponsor: Ukyo Team Expedition to Cho Oyu
ascent1: 420
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 2001-09-17
smtdate: 2001-10-08
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2001-10-12
campsites: BC(17/09,5000m),ABC(19/09,5600m),C1(28/09,6400m),C2(06/10,7000m),C3(07/10,7400m),Smt(08/10)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Oct 08: left C3 at 04:00 hours (Nepal Time), reached summit 09:30 hours, spent about 20 minutes, returned to C3, left for C2 after half an hour where they arrived at 12:30 hours. The weather was foggy/windy/cold.

  There was one Japanese journalist together on summit. 

  Katayama said he is planning for Shisapangma in the spring and Everest & Lhotse in 2002 autumn, if everything goes Ok.


expid: CHOY01312
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Cho Oyu Expedition 2001
ascent1: 396
countries: Japan, UK
bcdate: 2001-09-02
smtdate: 2001-09-21
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2001-09-25
campsites: BC(02/09),ABC(06/09,5600m),ABC(12/09,6400m),C2(19/09,7100m),C3(20/09,7400m),Smt(21/09)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  Summit party of 5 left C3 4:30 am (NST) and on top about 11:00 am (with Inaki party). Made track to true summit and saw Everest, returned to C3 3:00 pm, slept in C2 that night. On 20th Sherpas to 7600-7700m fixing rope. This team dug platforms for C3 and put up Japanese tents, but Phurba left a Japanese sack believed to hold oxygen only, but had food (which birds took away). Brice apologized for this mistake. Sherpas of 2 expeditions had made a deal for Brice team to use Japanese tents. Brice team to ABC on 22nd. This Brice's 6th ascent of Cho Oyu.

  Brice went from 5400m lake below ABC to top in '96 spring in 11 hours and down to lake in 3 hours. Schmidt this autumn made "amazing ascent" from ABC to top to BC.

  Brice returns to Xixa to BC.


expid: CHOY01313
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: John Race
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Cho Oyu Autumn 2001
ascent1: 407
countries: UK
bcdate: 2001-09-02
smtdate: 2001-09-25
termdate: 2001-09-30
campsites: BC(02/09),ABC(06/09,5600m),C1(12/09,6300m),C2(17/09,7000m),C3(24/09,7500m),Smt(25/09)
accidents: Nichols acute exhaustion
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  24 Sept 11:00 pm (NST) Cussen left C2 to go to top. Ang Pasang, Nichols, Stern and Turner, Danuru and Phu Nuru and Race left C3 1:00 am, but Race, seeing Cussen's headlight, dropped back to C3 and heated water for her. Race and Cussen left C3 at 1:30 am and caught up with others at small rock band. Traffic jam on fixed line and they were on it for 3 hours (24,800 ft to 25,500 ft, approx) reached top of one at 4:30 am. Cussen on top 8:45 am. Stern and Turner turned back about 8000m to make sure [they] he wasn't going to run out of energy on descent. Both Dawa Nuru and Phu Nuru to top with Cussen. Nichols and Race on up but Nichols fell over backwards and unable to self arrest. Phu Nuru caught him and got him on his feet at about 8150m. Race, the guide, short-roped him to top of fixed rope. All members slept in C2 and Sherpas to ABC.

  This was the guided group; also on permit: House, Bell and Carter parties.

  Summit Sherpas:
    Dawa Nuru/Danuru, Phortse, 6/10/78, Cho Oyu 13/5/00, Everest, Manaslu
    Phu Nuru, Phortse, 12/5/80, Cho Oyu X2

  On this permit was Race team and 3 other parties. All groups used same tents, and Sherpas established all camps.


expid: CHOY01315
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Steve House
sponsor: Independent climbers (on IMG permit)
ascent1: 415
bcdate: 2001-09-02
smtdate: 2001-09-27
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2001-09-30
othersmts: Climbed Palung Ri (unauthorized)
campsites: BC(02/09),ABC(06/09,5600m),C2(19/09,7000m),Smt(27/09)
accidents: Only Johnston diarrhea
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  1st climbed 3 peaks of 6200m and 6300m west of Nangpa La on 8 Sept and back to ABC. 13 Sept to Palung Ri summit via West Ridge (same route as Hillary in 1952).

  Left ABC 26 Sept at 1:00 pm (NST) 2 members only. At C2 6:30 pm, Scott got diarrhea so they stayed 3 hours. Both left at 10:00 pm for top; on C3 12:30-1:00 am. Scott not strong enough to continue up so returned to C2 while Steve House on to top alone; ended having lost trail (it had been blown over) and gone too for right and then regained correct trail. On top 9:00 am, saw Everest group and large number of prayer flags. Both slept in ABC that night.

  Independent team in John Race IMG group.


expid: CHOY01317
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Marco Chiantore
sponsor: Independent climber on Derycke permit
ascent1: 402
bcdate: 2001-09-07
smtdate: 2001-09-24
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2001-09-29
campsites: BC(07/09),ABC(12/09,5600m),C1(19/09,6400m),C2(22/09,6900m),C3(23/09,7400m),Smt(24/09)
accidents: Very slightly frostbitten fingers
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  ABC with other teams.

  23rd afternoon, at C3 offered Stangl space in his tent. Woke up 11 pm and 12:30 started up together. On top at 7:00 am NST in fantastic weather - 10m lower met Schmidt going up. Chiantore had no Sherpa, no oxygen (does not approve of oxygen; if one can't go higher without it, go down). Left ABC 29th to BC and same day to Tingri.


expid: CHOY01316
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Georges Derycke
sponsor: Allibert Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 412
countries: UK
bcdate: 2001-09-10
smtdate: 2001-09-26
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2001-10-02
campsites: BC(10/09),ABC(12/09,5700m),C1(19/09,6380m),C2(24/09,7100m),C3(25/09,7460m),Smt(26/09)
accidents: Armand badly frostbitten 10 fingers (slightly) toes (took long time photographing)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Summit party left C3 1:30 am (NST) for top with Guillemain and Edmundson; last 2 left attempt above rock band, both because lack of energy at about 7900m and stayed at C3. Also back with Guillemain were 2 Sherpas to help her (Jambu and Mingma Dorje). 4 successful men at top 8:30 am and back to C3 at noon. All down to C2 same day except Edmundson "just could not do it." 27th all in ABC. "You just can't believe you can take another step," said Edmundson of this climb, the "hardest in my life" though climbing all his life. Summiters could see no mountains in clouds, but reached prayer flags.


expid: CHOY01319
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NE Face (to 7400m)
route2: NW side
nation: Austria
leaders: Christian Stangl
sponsor: Independent climber on Asian Trekking permit
ascent2: 401
bcdate: 2001-09-02
smtdate: 2001-09-24
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2001-09-29
othersmts: Climbed Palung Ri on 9 Sept (unauthorized) and 3 other minor peaks
campsites: BC(02/09),ABC(05/09,5600m),C1(08/09,6200m),Smt(24/09)
accidents: Very slight frostbitten toes
achievment: New route attempted
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  ABC with other international group 
  C1 at upper and east extension of Gyabrag Glacier at foot of Palung Ri South Ridge.

  9th after ascent of Palung Ri, back to ABC. 15th to C1, 16th from C1 up to top of Palung Ri by South Face and slept very near top; 17th to ABC.

  21st to C1 and from 7:00 pm (NST) started up NE Face of Cho Oyu to 7400m, then last section too difficult with powder snow on rock face so down to 7000m on face and under big seracs traversed to west and joined normal at 6800m at biv at 6800m for night of 22nd. 23rd up to C3 normal site at 7500m and biv there. 24th 1:00 am started for top alone and on top at 7:00 am; to biv tent and down to C2 6900m and slept there. 25th at ABC.


expid: CHOY01320
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Wolfgang Lenzen
sponsor: Independent team (on McGuinness permit)
ascent1: 411
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 2001-09-08
smtdate: 2001-09-26
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2001-09-29
campsites: BC(08/09),ABC(11/09,5700m),C1(14/09,6400m),C2(17/09,7100m),C3(25/09,7500m),Smt(26/09)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  Summit team: all 3 members and Serap left C3 for top but spread out. Lenzen turned back 50m above because not feeling strong. Successful pair on return from top found Broglie lying in snow, blind, gloves off asking about fishing at 8050m. With help of Sergio Martini, 2 summiters got him to C2 on 26th and ABC 27th (walking and seeing by time down to C1) but finger tips black from frostbite.

  Sherpa:
    Serap Jangbu Sherpa, 25/7/69, Khumjung, K2 X2


  28 Oct 2001 

  Sherap said by telephone that he and Zimmer-Conrad reached summit at 8:00 am NST and saw prayer flags there. This is Sherap's 6th 8000er mountain summit.

accidents:
  Broglie altitude sickness and frostbite; cerebral bloodclot in brain. Zimmer-Conrad slight frostbite


expid: CHOY01321
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side (slight variation)
nation: Norway
leaders: Vidar Larsen
sponsor: Independent team
ascent1: 400
bcdate: 2001-09-02
smtdate: 2001-09-23
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2001-09-29
campsites: BC(02/09),ABC(05/09,5600m),C1(10/09,6100m),C2(14/09,7100m),C3(22/09,7600m),Smt(23/09)
accidents: Saether altitude sickness (both cerebral and pulmonary); Larsen left eye got bruised but recovered
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C3 in tent of another expedition.

  Larsen took Saether down to BC sick; had to park him above BC because he couldn't walk, got other Norwegians to come up and get him down to BC and put him in Gamov bag and his climb finished; Saether left BC for KTM on 10th. 

  Larsen left C3 at 3:00 am (NST) started to top with Dawa Jangbu, at top at 11:00 am and saw Everest and prayer flags, returned to C3 about 4:00 pm. From C3 Larsen, snowboarded down to 6400m, where icefall began. Dawa Jangbu slept in C2 and Larsen in C1 that night.


expid: CHOY01322
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Sergio Martini
sponsor: Cho Oyu Expedition Autumn 2001 from Tibet
ascent1: 414
bcdate: 2001-09-10
smtdate: 2001-09-26
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2001-09-29
campsites: BC(10/09),ABC(14/09,5500m),C1(18/09,6100m),C2A(19/09,6800m),C2B(24/09,7100m),Smt(26/09)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  23rd slept in C2 and 24th to new C2. 25th both Italians left new C2 for top at 3:00 am (CST). Nicolodi no battery in headlamp and could not see well because moving slowly and stepped into deep snow off well beaten track; both turned back 7400m about 6:00 am and return to 7100m C2. 

  26th Martini up again alone at 3:00 am CST and about 6:00 am met other climbers but carried on after together on fixed ropes and on top 10:30 am (12:45 pm NST) waited 50 minutes for fog to clear but did not and saw only prayer flags at top. Down to ABC that evening. "Little tired" from loads for C2 and "little snowing." 29th Martini found seat in jeep of Slovenian small teams and in KTM 30th.

  29th Nicolodi in ABC to try again for top with Argentinian and Mexican team. Martini came to Cho Oyu for his 2nd ascnt to get good pix but again cloudy.


  Nicolodi - 7 Oct

  He reached 7710m on 30 Sept. Started for top from ABC to C2 29 Sept and try for top alone on 30 Sept from C2 turned abck at 7710m because deep snow, strong winds ropes covered by snow, on 7700m about 4:00-5:00 am but could not see above because thick fog. Down to ABC directly because weather not going to get better.


expid: CHOY01323
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Paul Noble
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Cho Oyu Expedition 2001
ascent1: 423
countries: Ireland, Norway
approach: Ktm->Tingri
bcdate: 2001-09-16
smtdate: 2001-10-10
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2001-10-15
accidents: Dowd altitude problems and left about 30 Sept; nothing else serious
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(16/09),ABC(21/09,5750m),C1(26/09,6400m),Intermed(27/09,6800m),C2(28/09,7050m),C3(09/10,7400m),Smt(10/10)

routememo:
  Bad weather after C2 established and not until 9 Oct C3 reached and occupied by Hunt, Jenssen and Krishna Bahadur Tamang. 3:30 am (NST) 3 men left C3 for top. Hunt turned back at 7600m because getting cold and headlamp not working; others go to top at 10:00 am where saw Everest, et al, in clear and slightly windy weather (but next day weather deteriorated again to snowfall and strong wind). Hunt slept in C2 and Tamang to ABC. Jenssen to C2 10th at 5:00 pm; Hunt at 11:00 am and waited for Jenssen.

  When Dowd decided to leave, Miss McGuirk went with him because they had agreed when one left, the other one would too; she was strongest member of the team.

  Hired:
    Krishna Bahadur Tamang, 25/9/68, Kanku village, Solu, Everest 13/5/98


expid: CHOY01325
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: Norway
leaders: Harald Kippenes
sponsor: The Norwegian Himalayan Expedition 2001
ascent1: 416,418
bcdate: 2001-09-05
smtdate: 2001-09-27
smttime: 1000
campsites: BC(05/09),ABC(11/09,5700m),C1(13/09,6300m),C2(17/09,7100m),C3(26/09,7500m),Smt(27,29/09)
accidents: Leader cerebral edema (reached C2 & went down sick on 18th); nothing else
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  1st summit party of Smoergrav and Ang Chhiri left C3 at 2:30 am (NST) and on top 10:00 am and saw Everest and prayer flags (30+ min after Monty Schmidt) and slept in C2. 

  2nd summit party left C3 early am 29th, Skraastad and Kami Sherpa (1st people on summit that day) with Kandola and Stave. Skraastad and Kami on top at 11:00 am and Kandola and Stave 1:00-1:30 (also saw Everest and flags). Stave skied from top to rock band at 7800-7900m and then C3 towards C2 and then fell above C2, slid 300m but not hurt by the fall. The two slept in C2 not hurt by fall - slid 300m but other 2 who were later slept in C3.

  Summit Sherpas: 
    Chhiri Sherpa, 27 yrs, Thamo, Everest 22/5/01
    Kami Sherpa, Bagam, 1962, Everest X3, Lhotse


expid: CHOY01326
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Henry Todd
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Cho Oyu Expedition 2001
ascent1: 395,403
countries: Canada, Spain, Sweden, USA
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2001-09-02
smtdate: 2001-09-21
termdate: 2001-09-26
othersmts: Climbed Xixabangma (1st peak)
campsites: BC(02/09,4950m),ABC(05/09,5700m),C1(09/09,6400m),C2(19/09,7100m),C3(20/09,7500m),Smt(21,24/09)
achievment: 1st team to summit of the season
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  While Jungquist was attempting summit, right side of her body (eye, hand) paralyzed (stroke). Todd and Ochoa evacuated her to BC. Ochoa and Jungquist with one member arrived KTM on Sept 27. Todd will go to Lhasa. Rest of the members arrived KTM on 29. The expedition team will leave on 30th and Oct 3 and 5.

  Summit: On 21st left C3 at 03:15 (Nepal Time) reached summit between 10:35-11:00 hours. Spent about 30 minutes on the summit. Descended to C2. Collinet had to retreat from 7800m due to his sugar level (he is a diabetic using insulin injections four times a day to maintain sugar level). Also, he wanted to attempt on summit without oxygen. 

  Perez: did not try as he was not feeling well. 
  Poulsen: he became very tired and was very slow, so he too retreated.

  On 24th: The second team left C3 at 02:00 hours. Reached summit at about 07:00 hours, spent about 30 minutes on summit, returned to C2 about 16:00 hours.

accidents:
  Jungquist stroke on Sept 24 at the altitude about 7900m while attempting summit: right side of her body (eye, hand paralyzed)


expid: CHOY01327
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Nicolas Jagues
sponsor: Horizons Nouveaux Expedition to Xixabangma & Cho Oyu
ascent1: 426,428
countries: France
approach: From Xixabangma BC and Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2001-10-09
smtdate: 2001-10-16
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2001-11-02
othersmts: Climbed Xixabangma (1st peak)
campsites: BC(09/10),ABC(12/10,5720m),C1(14/10,6400m),C2(15/10,7150m),Smt(16,28/10)
accidents: Kunga Sherpa slipped at C1 and broke bone in elbow; Lambert chest infection and left 20 Oct
agency: Mandala Trekking
routememo:
  First people to sleep in C1 and C2 had gone from Xixabangma. No C3 because had a good weather window and not sure how long it would last. 16th summit party left C2 3:15 am (NST) to go up and on top about 12:00 noon, back to C2. 

  2nd summit party left C2 on 28th at 1:00 am (not so well acclimatized as 16th party, full moon) rested in British C3 for an hour between moon's setting and dawn, and again up. Boiveau set out from C2 with summiters, but turned back at 7300m because no energy; he has altitude ceiling (on 11th he did not go up from C2 for some reason and had same problem on Xixa). Successful summiters were Aguet and Lukie at about 1:00 pm and in C2 at 4:00 pm; spent 30 minutes on top in beautiful weather and Aguet extremely tired in descent. 

  Both summit parties saw Everest. Tshering Dorje left expedition as soon as he reached ABC after his ascent, so team had no Sherpas for 2nd ascent.


expid: CHOY01328
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Ezio Berti
sponsor: Focus Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 2001-09-08
smtdate: 2001-10-05
termdate: 2001-10-10
termnote: Abandoned at 7050m due to avalanche danger
campsites: BC(08/09),ABC(14/09,5600m),C1(21/09,6400m),C2(23/09,6800m),xxx(05/10,7050m)
accidents: Berti sick from about 22 Sept and stopped climbing
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  5 Oct start from C2 for top but stopped at 7050m because snowfalling and Sherpa feared avalanching, so go down to ABC same day. Big avalanche fall 5 Oct near C2. Climb finished. Now strong winds came. Summit party by Martignago, Ongchu Sherpa and Phenden Sherpa.

  Martignago struck golf ball with his golf iron at 7050m. Ball went about 200m - record altitude for golf, he says, highest previous such feat was on Aconcagua.


expid: CHOY01331
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Martin Schmidt
sponsor: Independent team (on Boskoff permit)
ascent1: 404,417
countries: USA
bcdate: 2001-09-02
smtdate: 2001-09-24
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2001-09-29
accidents: Nothing
agency: Mountain Madness
campsites:
  BC(02/09,4800m),ABC(06/09,5800m),C1(10/09,6450m),C1.5(16/09,6800m),C2(17/09,7100m),C3(23/09,7500m),Smt(24,28/09)

routememo:
  On Boskoff permit and shared BC and ABC but on our own schedule above ABC. Made a C1 because too far for his "older" client, but when to top skipped C1 and C1.5. On summit push both members left C3 at 00:30 am of 24th and on top at 7:30 am (NST), half hour after Marco Chaintore (Focus permit) and Christian Stangl (Asian Trekking International party). Returned to 7700m at top of fixed lines, Schmidt down ahead and then helped Henry Todd's Swedish client be evacuated. Peeters slept at C2 while Schmidt to C1 with Swedish woman, and returned to C2. Brought Peeters and all C2 and C1 gear to ABC 25th. 

  27th 6:00 pm Schmidt left ABC entirely alone in very strong wind; reached top at 4:45 am 28th, slept on top an hour, curled up in his down suit, got up 5:45 am though still dark and high wind. Down to ABC at 12:00 noon and at BC 5:00 pm. Brice did ascent in 11 hours; Schmidt 11 hours 15 minutes with start slightly lower and in spring had less snow to contend with. Brice did not descend to BC same day as "I was bit tired." 


  Russell Brice - 3 Oct 2001

  Schmidt's climb was "on amazing ascent" from ABC to top to BC in one day and on to BC same night, but not a speed record. Brice in spring 1996 climbed from lake (about 5400m - below ABC) to top in 11 hours and down to lake in 3 hours.


  NZ - USA Cho Oyu Expedition 2001 by Martin Schmidt (NZ Alpine Club)

  "Hey Randy. It's time to move for the summit."

  Since 9 pm I have been up brewing teas and preparing for our summit day at our high camp on Cho Oyu. Randy Peeters from California, rocket scientist by trade, is my client for this expedition.

  "This is it Randy, this is why we have been climbng hard for the past 20 days."

  Together with the help of the other expeditions the ropes, weather, strength, breathing well and keeping up the pace. These thoughts run at high speed through our minds during the summit bid. For us today the weather is good, we have low winds, clear skies and very cold temperatures. With a short tether attached to Randy and one oxygen cylinder in my pack for back up, we progress quickly to the rock band at 7700m. There are 2 solo climbers above us and unfortunately they are not very experienced at altitude, this becomes apparent when the time comes for them to use the fixed ropes. The first climber launches a good size stone which barrels toward me with only one mission, to hit me square in the arm. Several more will nail us if we don't move out of the firing line quickly. In my head I am upset about being in the line of fire from people who are not aware of others while climbing. I have seen this action way too much in the mountains and it is hurting others if not killing them.

  I now felt something was not right with the other climbers that were showing negligence. My rescue instincts were being summoned for others, not for Randy and me. We knew where we were at all times. To me, this gut feeling is the highest high on this planet. To know yourself fully above 8000m has got to be one of the most powerful accomplishments for any human being. Randy wanted to experience this and so did the other climbers. This is why we were climbing into this magical realm. Randy climbed well through the rock band. Each step was understood by his inner drive to succeed. He had always wanted to summit an 8000m mountain and now was the time for his ultimate test. With each step upward, his pace was simple enough to be successful, but warmth was leaving his body like a lizard on an iceberg. I wanted him to summit without oxygen but his feet were suffering. The oxygen was not for his strength but for his warmth. At 7900m it was crunch time - put Randy on oxygen or risk severe damage to his feet. I don't lose feet, noses, fingers or hearts while in the mountains, so the oxygen went on and his feet instantly stepped into a hot spring. He couldn't carry this cylinder himself, which is why I am his guide, he knows I'll do everything for him, except whip his ass. So with oxygen being sucked by Randy, the road to the summit opened up. It looked a bit funny to others when they saw the two of us, a long oxygen hose coming out of my pack and attaching itself to Randy's regulator, two feet away. The ultimated would have been to summit Randy without oxygen, but we listened to our inner hearts and we have all our digits to this day.

  My gut instinct was still on alert because of the other climbers around. We were the 3rd and 4th climbers to summit that day. Several other climbers were on their way to the summit later in the morning. I couldn't help thinking. "Why didn't these people leave earlier in the morning, it's getting too late". But who am I to tell these people anything? I am here to take care of one person and I am very happy to have made the summit with Randy. Short tethering Randy was straightforward from the summit downward. A few steep sections, some bad snow conditions and Randy getting tired set the scene for the next 2 hours. Getting to the top of the fixed lines went smoothly and down we went to high camp. Upon reaching this camp, another guide Henry Todd came up to me and asked me to help get one of his clients down off the mountain as soon as possible. Randy and I had been on the summit when Henry's client had suffered a stroke. He had brought her down to the high camp with another climber's help only to get stuck with her on his own. Realising this rescue needed to happen right away I told Randy to stay at high camp while I helped take the woman down to camp 1. Randy was tired but together after his summit and he realized the thought of getting some food and rest. It took the rest of that day to get her down to Camp 1, with the crux being the ice fall at 6600m. Henry down-climbed and side-stepped to the base of it while I set up the lowering system. Thank goodness for good gear and solid ice. Two more hours and we were at camp I feeling relieved to help her down this far. Soon others were beginning to help us and several other climbers came up from advance base camp to help get this woman back to the relative safety of advance base camp (ABC). There was a tent waiting for her with medical gear, oxygen and good company from people who wanted only the best for her.

  The next day, I went back up the mountain to get Randy and all of our gear. The excitement that lives in us after summiting a big mountain remains for the rest of our lives. Randy was complete with his goals and looked forward to sharing this excitement with others especially with his wife Doris who was to meet him in KTM in just a few days. For me, I had been thinking of going back up the mountain to try for the world speed record. I had talked to Russell Brice a few days before and he had completed this task in just over 12 hours from High Lake Bivy. I wanted to try from ABC and do it in less than 11 hours. I had run up Aconcagua back in 1989 after doing the south face with clients, so I knew what it takes to run 3000m in one shot. Feeling strong and eating well were good indication for me to try in 2 days time. But word got out about the rescue and the cheap Chinese brandy started to flow. For me, this moment was everything. I had done my work well getting Randy to the summit and back down safely and had helped rescue another soul from the death zone. I had not seen much of Russell since 1994 when we guided together on a new route on Everest. It wasn't long before we were sipping radiator fluid together. We got pretty drunk and talked all night about everything and nothing. Thanks Russ, I needed that but somewhere in the spirit of things I had forgotten that I wanted to leave the next afternoon for a one day summit push from ABC.

  I don't normally go after cheap brandy especially while I am preparing for a one day summit push of an 8000m mountain but I got caught up in the spirit of the moment and just went with the flow. With my head spinning and rejected food flung over the rocks I struggled to focus on packing my gear. At our 5800 m ABC, this took some time to do with a raging head. At 6 pm that night I began. In my mind I had divided the route into sections. After reaching Lake Camp from ABC in one hour, I them made Camp I in 45 minutes. There I changed into boots and crampons, had some food and drink and kept on running to C2. I had every inch of the route dialed in to my mind and body by this time and everything was clicking. The sky checked out well and I climbed straight through the later part of the night reaching C2 at 11:30 pm, half an hour behind my schedule. The temperature dropped and the wind increased two fold. I had to dig a hole to get out of the wind so that I could change once again into my down suit. My thermos bottle was still warm with black tea, which put a smile on my face. Ah, nothing beats a warm cuppa on the way to an 8000m summit.

  The next section was the crux of the climb. Since my summit with Randy, the wind had blown half a metre of new snow into the footsteps. So much for cruising to the summit. Posthole digging and poor visibly became a test of my will power. I just climbed straight upwards, knowing that I would soon hit the rib of rock, which leads to C3. At times a wand would appear to confirm that I was still on route. What should have take me 45 minutes took 1.5 hours. My feet and fingers were well prepared now for the summit being warm from all the hard work. Leaving at 1:30 am from C3 was the highlight of my ascent. I knew that if I could run up the rock bands, hit the summit ridge and race across the final summit plateau, I would be home free to descend with the ultimate smile from within the soul. Free of the new snow the rock band went quickly. Above the bands of rock came the second crux. Still in darkness and with the temperature starting to squeeze my watch, the route was not easily found in high winds and spindrift. Wow, did the winds ever pick up. This section was filled with more unconsolidated snow. Did I mention that this was frustrating? The will power has engage full time during these moments. It didn't help that the 130 km/h winds prevented me from seeing much, which made me go too far to the right and almost over the side, into Nepal. Looking up and seeing pitch black, then watching my Suunto watch to try to keep me on pace, my inner smile was re directed for a moment or two., What should have take 1.5 hours had already taken 2.5 hours.

  Above 8000m with clients I have to make sure that they are well and capable of making the summit in time for getting back to the high camp safely, with all fingers and toes and smiles. So looking at the watch is routine for me. But when racing up an 8000m mountain, the watch becomes an enemy that has to be sorted out. It was 4:00 am now, and I had reached the height of 8100m with the sunrise still 1.5 hours away. I felt around this land with my other senses, with my eyes, the flatness of the summit came to me. I knew I needed to hoof it from here if I wanted to get below the 11 hour mark. The winds were so strong but my inner warmth was solid. I was so warm and dry that I knew I could rest on the summit till the morning came and take the summit photo with the sun rising over Everest and Kangchenjunga. At 4:45 am my goal was complete. From ABC it had take 10 hours and 45 minutes to be standing in darkness upon the summit of Cho Oyu, the Goddess of Turquoise. The running technique for the past 100m ws not one used by Carl Lewis. By my limbs new better than to stress too much about any record. I just felt really good up on that summit of Cho Oyu, I wanted to capture the moment so I curled up in Husky ball and slept for an hour. The sun rose enough by this time to get my photo and start the run down to ABC. Summiting twice in 4 days was magical and will always be within my blood.

  It is this experience captured that I want to share with my special clients from around the world. It takes time to be called to the Himalayas and when you know it is your turn, you will find a way to make it happen.


expid: CHOY01332
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Jamie McGuinness
sponsor: Arun Treks USA Cho Oyu Expedition
countries: New Zealand
bcdate: 2001-09-10
smtdate: 2001-09-30
termdate: 2001-10-10
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to bad weather
agency: Explore Himalaya
campsites:
  BC(10/09),ABC(15/09,5700m),C1(20/09,6400m),C1.5(27/09,6850m),C2(28/09,7100m),C3(30/09,7500m),xxx(30/09)

routememo:
  High point at C3 just below yellow band.

  Summit party slept in C3 on 30 Sept but at midnight strong winds and by 3:00 am 1 Oct snowing, so down to C2 to wait for good weather. After 3-night wait, went down because weather had gotten even worse and climb finished.


expid: CHOY01314
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: Canada
leaders: Reid Carter
sponsor: Independent climber on IMG permit
ascent1: 410
bcdate: 2001-09-02
smtdate: 2001-09-26
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2001-09-30
campsites: BC(02/09),ABC(06/09,5600m),C1(12/09,6300m),C2(24/09,7000m),C3(25/09,7500m),Smt(26/09)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  Went for top on 26th from C3 with Kami Tshering; left C3 at 1:00 am NST and on top 7:30 am, took pix of Everest and down to C3 10:00 am and down same day to C2.

  Independent climber in John Race IMG group.


expid: CHOY01330
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Christine Boskoff
sponsor: Mountain Madness Cho Oyu Expedition 2001
ascent1: 406
countries: Mexico
bcdate: 2001-09-02
smtdate: 2001-09-25
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2001-09-29
campsites: BC(02/09),ABC(06/09,5800m),C1(11/09,6450m),C2(16/09,7100m),C3(24/09,7400m),Smt(25/09)
accidents: Buendia developed symptoms of altitude sickness and left ABC (also lost motivation)
agency: Mountain Madness
routememo:
  Summit party of 3 left C3 0:30 am NST and on top 8 hours later.

  Buendia and Tittle left ABC together on 21 Sept.

  Schmidt (see separate team) 1 Oct 2001 said Tittle left because he needed more attention and guiding: he found himself alone on a ridge and did not want to go on without more help from leadership.

  Tittle went to Bangkok from KTM and was found dead in his hotel room from drug overdose.


expid: CHOY01333
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Patrick Lang
sponsor: Friends on Cho Oyu
ascent1: 419
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2001-09-06
smtdate: 2001-09-29
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2001-10-06
campsites: BC(06/09,5000m),ABC(09/09,5800m),C1(18/09,6400m),C2(24/09,7100m),C3(28/09,7500m),Smt(29/09)
agency: Ang Rita Treks
routememo:
  Four members left C3 on 29th at 04:00 hours (Nepal Time). Keegan Schmidt reached summit at 13:30 hours. Spent about 45 min filming for skiing members of Norwegian expedition. He descended to C2 around 19:00 hours. He saw the summit of Everest and Lhotse, the rest was covered with clouds.

  Sullivan reached up to 7900m and returned due to cold and tiredness. Talaga returned from 7600m due to tiredness. Tyson returned from about 8000m due to exhaustion. All the members went down to C2.

  The members will leave Nepal between Oct 15 and Nov 01 to different destinations.

accidents:
  Lang had to leave the expedition due to torn old wound on lower right leg - swollen muscles at ABC on 13 Sept (came to KTM on 17 Sept)


expid: CHOY01318
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Mark Houston
sponsor: Cosley-Houston Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2001-09-09
smtdate: 2001-10-05
termdate: 2001-10-10
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to bad weather storm
campsites: BC(09/09,4800m),ABC(13/09,5730m),C1(20/09,6400m),C2(27/09,7130m),C3(28/09,7500m),xxx(05/10,7500m)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  C3 pitched by Sherpas at 7500m due to bad weather.
   
  Christ went up little above C1 on 21st. Cosley up to C2 three times last one on Oct 5. Hamilton and Helm up to C2 on Oct 5. Latham up to little above C1. Latombe twice to C2, last time on Sept 27. Moceri up to C2 on Sept 27. Latham left expedition on Sept 29 and left Nepal on Oct 4 due to loss of interest.

  The expedition is leaving Nepal on Oct 14. It arrived Kathmandu on Oct 12. Spent a night in Royal Singi Hotel.


expid: CHOL01401
peakid: CHOL
year: 2001
route1: SW Ridge (probably same as 1994 Koreans)
nation: S Korea
leaders: Jung Song-Mo
sponsor: 01/02 Korea Winter Cholatse Expedition
ascent1: 16th
approach: Phortse->up Dudh Kosi to Manchermo to Na
bcdate: 2001-12-24
smtdate: 2002-01-07
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2002-01-08
campsites: BC(24/12,4700m),ABC(27/12,5300m),C1(04/01,5700m),Smt(07/01)
agency: Echo Nepal
routememo:
  BC  at yak pasture
  ABC at moraine right side of icefall
  C1  at start of SW ridge.

  Intended to climb South Ridge, but everyday avalanches came down the highest part of ridge, so changed to SW Ridge. From ABC to ridge was dangerous icefall which took 3 days to get through. Above C1 is very narrow ridge, all rock with same blue ice, to about 6100m and then less steep and narrow but many crevasses. 3:00 am Park Mu-Taek and Won started from C1 for summit push; 7:00 am at 6100m, on top at 12:00 noon in clear calm weather. All throughout climbing period had clear weather, no snowfall, no wind. Returned to C1 5:00 pm, and BC 7:00 pm. Rope fixed in icefall (200m) and 800m from icefall to 6100m.


expid: DHA101302
peakid: DHA1
year: 2001
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Barbara Hirschbichler
sponsor: Independent team on Favre's Dhaulagiri I permit
countries: Switzerland
approach: Beni->Tatopani->Marpha->Yak Kharka->below Thapa Pass
bcdate: 2001-09-16
smtdate: 2001-10-02
termdate: 2001-10-09
termnote: Abandoned at 8120m (fore-summit) by mistake
campsites: BC(16/09,4700m),C1(18/09,5700m),C2(23/09,6600m),C3(01/10,7460m),ForeSmt(02/10,8120m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC at usual camp site
  C1 at North Col
  C2 on ridge below a crevasse
  High point at summit ridge.

  According to Aregger, both members left C3 on Oct 02 at 06:30 hours reached summit at 15:00 hours, spent about 10 minutes, descended to C3 at 21:00 hours. The weather condition was good but very cold. They were on the summit together with two Japanese expedition members (man and women) and three Sherpas. Aregger showed their climbing route which is the proper normal route (crossing snowline far westward, climb shallow couloir on the summit ridge and climb eastward to summit). After the climb Hirschbichler and Aregger trekked to Tilicho-returned to Jomsom from there Hirschbichler went for Annapurna circuit trek. Aregger returned to Kathmandu on Oct 18, left Nepal on 20th. When I met Hirschbichler asked about their climbing route. She sketched me the route which is different from the one Aregger showed to me. Her sketch and the route showed to me by Mondinelli is the same, which is wrong route to summit. This later was confirmed by the Italian expedition leader Favre and climber Blanc. They told me that Hirshbichler team and the Japanese had wrong summit. I met the Spanish and Italian members before meeting Hirschbichler. When I asked Hirschbichler about the proper summit, she told me that she saw a higher point far ahead to the west, and asked Sherpas about it. Then one of the Sherpas told her that the place where they reached is the correct summit and nobody goes to the other point. Hirschbichler realized her situation and was very disappointed about the false information of the Sherpas about the summit.

  She returned to Kathmandu on Oct 29 and left for Langtang on 31st. She returns to Kathmandu on Nov 8. Plans to leave Nepal at the beginning of Dec. She said that she is the chief of the organization called "Support for the people Himalaya." She had a shipment of used clothes for distribution in Nepal.


expid: DHA101303
peakid: DHA1
year: 2001
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Jose Antonio Garces
sponsor: Independent team on Favre's Dhaulagiri I permit
ascent1: 106
countries: Italy
approach: Jomsom->French Pass
bcdate: 2001-09-16
smtdate: 2001-10-12
smttime: 1115
termdate: 2001-10-15
campsites: BC(16/09,4500m),C1(21/09,5600m),C2(22/09,6400m),C3(01/10,7400m),Smt(12/10)
accidents: Garces fatal fall down from cliff
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC at little below the usual camp site.

  Oct 12 Mondinelli, Pasaban with Sherpa left C3 at 04:30 hours. About 7800m Mondinelli told Pasaban to return due to dangerous snowline/path. Pasaban and Sherpa returned to C3. Mondinelli reached summit around 11:15 hours. Stayed about half an hour for photos - it was windy. He saw a dead body at the beginning of summit ridge 3/4-meter away. Garces and Merelli started from C3 at 05:30 hours. At about 8050m they met Favre and Blanc, who advised Garces to return as it was late and windy. Garces was behind Merelli who suddenly realized that Garces was not behind him. Then Blanc told him that he saw Garces fall (it was about 7800m). Merelli stayed at C3. On 13th he tried to find the body of Garces, but there was no trace of it. Then descended to BC, Soria also descended. 

  The team (all members) with 2 Sherpas first attempted summit on Oct 2 but returned from 7700m due to soft snow condition.

  - Soria trying to leave Kathmandu on 22
  - Pasaban to leave on 24, it depends on the return of Spanish Pumori expedition
      that lost 5 members
  - Mondinelli and Merelli probably leave on 26.
    Pasaban, Mondinelli and Merelli leaving on 26

  Re Hirschbichler and Aregger summit: Soria told me that when Hirschbichler came back to BC from the climb, he wanted to felicitate her, but she told Soria not to because they did not reach the main summit.

  About Japanese team: The Japanese said that their Sherpas told them that that was the summit.


expid: DHA101301
peakid: DHA1
year: 2001
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Adriano Favre
sponsor: Vallee d'Aoste Expedition
ascent1: 105
countries: France
approach: Baglung->Tatopani->Marpha
bcdate: 2001-09-10
smtdate: 2001-10-12
smttime: 1115
termdate: 2001-10-16
campsites: BC(10/09,4670m),C1(21/09,5845m),C2(22/09,6630m),C3(11/10,7525m),Smt(12/10)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Oct 12 Blanc, Busca, Favre and Rosset left C3 at 03:30 hours, reached summit at about 11:15 hours. Favre was the last one to leave summit around 12:00 hours. Strong wind/cold. Reached C3 at 15:00 hours. Busca and Rosset went to C2. For Blanc the summit is 13th of 8000m peaks. He is planning to go to Annapurna South Face in 2002 autumn with Christian Kuntner (Italian). The summiters saw a body 4/5-meter away from the summit ridge which they believe of German member of Swiss expedition of 1995 spring.

  While descending from summit the group met Garces and Merelli at about 8050m and suggested the two not to continue as it was late and windy. Then Garces and Merelli followed Favre and Blanc. Merelli suddenly realized that Garces was not behind him. Blanc told him that he saw Garces fall down the cliff (about 7800m). Favre, Blanc and Posset said that Hirschbichler-Aregger team and Japanese with three Sherpas did not reach to main summit on Oct 2.

  The expedition returned to KTM on Oct 20. Noro left on Oct 21. Seven members leaving on 22. Favre leaves on 23; Blanc and Rosset leaving after they collect their equipment.

  - Both Commune's and Prevot went up to C3
  - Epiney reached up to 7000m (exhausted)
  - Rest of the members went up to C2
  - The expedition had a deposit camp at 7000m

  Hirschbichler team: Favre said it was not possible for the team to reach main summit from what they saw from BC. Hirschbichler and Japanese were seen climbing wall from which it is difficult to reach the main summit as the ridge has a big fall/rock. Hirschbichler said at BC they did not reach to main summit.


expid: DHA101305
peakid: DHA1
year: 2001
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kiyoshi Ishii
sponsor: Club Yeti Dhaulagiri Expedition
bcdate: 2001-09-03
smtdate: 2001-10-02
termnote: Abandoned at false summit by mistake
campsites: BC(03/09,4700m),C1(17/09,5700m),C2(20/09,6500m),C3(01/10,7400m),xxx(02/10,8000m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at NE Col
  C2 at 6500m North Ridge crevasses
  High point on NE side of summit ridge.

  C1 established 2 weeks after BC because much snowfall. Summit party of 5 left C3 4:00 am on 2 Oct and top 2:50 pm in easy climb technically in strong wind and snowfalling; returned to C3 9:00 pm 2 Oct and slept there. No other attempt on top after them because of bad weather.

  "Summit Sherpas": 
    Dawa Chiri Sherpa, 34, Kurima (Lokhim VDC), Makalu 1999, Everest 2000
    Kumar Rai, 25, Dadagaon (Makalu VDC Sankhuwasahba), 1st 8000er 
      (1st Rai atop any 8000er)
    Da Gyalzen Sherpa, 34, Kurima (Lokhim VDC), 1st 8000er

  Italian team's leader and members said 21 Oct this Japanese team did not reach the summit on 20 Oct. German leader of 2-member German-Swiss team said on 30 Oct her team and Japanese reached same high point together on 2 Oct and it was not the summit, although the Japanese Sherpas said it was.


expid: DHA101306
peakid: DHA1
year: 2001
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Ryoji Yamada
sponsor: Kyoto Dhaulagiri I First Expedition 2001
ascent1: 107
bcdate: 2001-09-09
smtdate: 2001-10-12
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2001-10-16
campsites: BC(09/09,4700m),C1(19/09,5700m),C2(23/09,6400m),C3(10/10,7500m),Smt(12/10)
accidents: Nothing except slight stomach problem for leader
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at little below NE Col (same as other teams)
  C2 below 2 crevasses
  C3 on NE Ridge just below route; traverse on North Face.

  11th Shitate and Yamada tried to go to top, but strong wind forced them back to C3 from 7750m; had gone up with 4 members from Hasino's team. 12th both again up to 7800m when Yamada turned back because stomach problem while Shitate to top; left C3 4:40 am for top at 1:00 pm, only person on top that day. Sure he got to top after slight traverse and couloir and return to NE Ridge - was clear weather.


expid: DHAM01301
peakid: DHAM
year: 2001
route1: Western slope to Thapa Smt
nation: France
leaders: Raphael Guilbert
sponsor: Thapa Peak and Tour de Dhaulagiri
approach: Beni->Babukhar->Dhaulagiri BC->Hidden Valley
bcdate: 2001-10-26
smtdate: 2001-10-28
smttime: 1100
termnote: Climbed western summit (Thapa)
campsites: BC(26/10,5080m),W-Smt(28/10)
achievment: 1st official summit of Thapa (western) summit
agency: Tip & Top Trekking
routememo:
  BC at hidden valley near Chorten.

  The expedition team left the BC at 04:00 hours, reached to summit at 11:00 hours. There was snow from 200m to the summit. They found stones arranged and prayer flags on the summit. It was not a type of climbing but was easy walk. They used crampons, but could reach to summit without crampons. Same day they camped at Yak Kharka. Next day camp was in Marpha below Jomsom. The expedition returned to KTM on Oct 31 and will leave Nepal on Nov 3.

  The liaison officer did not show up in Hidden Valley (BC) camp as agreed. There were Germans, French and Czechs camping on way to the Thapa Peak and after on the way to Yak Kharka. Guilbert said those were without permit and had all the climbing gears with them and he was told by them that they may try the peak.

  The members expressed their disappointment about the peak and felt that they were fooled for paying the royalty for the peak where as others just going to have it free.

  I met Nima Lhakpa's (Tip Top) brother who told me that there are climbers without permit to the Thapa Peak (from Thamserku and 2 or 3 agencies). Three members Levet, Rion and Vincent reached to BC but they did not try to climb.


expid: DORJ01301
peakid: DORJ
year: 2001
route1: W Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Philippe Grenier
sponsor: Nepal France Joint Dorje Lhakpa Expedition 2001
ascent1: 15th
countries: Belgium, Italy
approach: Langtang Khola->Langshisa Kharka->Trupaikul->Langshisa Glacier
bcdate: 2001-10-11
smtdate: 2001-10-21
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2001-10-24
campsites: BC(11/10,4800m),C1(15/10,5400m),C2(20/10,6150m),Smt(21/10)
agency: Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
routememo:
  BC on glacier
  C1 at bottom of ridge
  C2 at 6150m on West Ridge.

  Summit party of six left C2 at 6:00 am for top. Delobelle stopped at 6750m because too slow and tired; Rouquette stopped at 6600m also slow. So 4 to top at 1:00 pm and down to BC only 3 while De Sommer slept in C2 that night; also C2 4:00-4:30 and later in descent. 

  Fixed rope from C1 to 200m below summit because of snow and ice, very steep and ridge very narrow in places and even flat spots were so narrow they had to be fixed.


expid: EVER01301
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Jim Wickwire, Ed Hommer
sponsor: American-Canada 2001 Everest Expedition
countries: Canada
bcdate: 2001-08-20
smtdate: 2001-09-25
termdate: 2001-10-14
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to high winds
campsites: BC(20/08),ABC(29/08,6400m),C1(12/09,7000m,C2(18/09,7500m),xxx(25/09)
accidents: Wickwire neurological problem; got only to BC and left 26 Aug
achievment: 1st attempt by double amputee
agency: Nepal Village Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  High point on North Ridge.

  Intended to climb via Great Couloir, but there was so much snow that too great avalanche danger so made no attempt to leave normal route. For my benefit, we established a camp at 7500m with 2 tents and fair supplies because otherwise too far between camps. Stocked 1 tent at 7800m (Hungarians had pitched 2 tents and coordinated efforts) but never slept there. Planned C4 at 8300-8400m but did not get there. 20th Sept so others went down from C2 to ABC - weather deteriorated so down by Hommer to BC with two trips to ABC but bad weather (snowfall and wind) recurred. Once Homer spent 15 days in ABC waiting for avalanching to stop and snowfall to hold off and wind to abate. Hommer's highest point was 7500m camp which reached but never slept there because no space in camp. High point of 7800m, site for C3, fixing rope there and setting up a camp. Hommer had problems with residual ends of left leg and scar tissue because so dry it cracked open and split from end to end and bled and hurt. On 8th Oct, the date for cut off of trying for top from ABC, "we realized summit chances had disappeared in the wind." So expedition spent next days cleaning the mountain. Hommer would have made a summit attempt even with leg problem because only "aggravating not debilitating." Felt "pretty disappointed," took 25 years to get to Everest; disappointing and frustrating to get so close and not to have weather good period. "We had given it our best shot." "Yes!" (want to go again in 2003, may be in spring).


  Ed Hommer - 12 August 2001

  Both amputations 4 inches above ankle. Lost his both lower legs after a light plane he was piloting crashed over North America's Mt McKinley in Alaska in 1981. His legs became frostbitten after he was stranded on the mountain for several days.

  This 1st time I'm allowing anyone to assist him - Sherpa will do so.


expid: EVER01302
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: E Face
nation: Hungary
leaders: David Klein
sponsor: Hungarian Everest Lhotse Expedition
approach: By road to power station->1 hr from Kantasang up of village
bcdate: 2001-09-11
smtdate: 2001-10-15
termdate: 2001-10-31
termnote: Abandoned at 6350m due to avalanching
accidents: Klein knocked unconscious by falling stone but recovered
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(11/09,5200m),ABC(14/09,5400m),Depot(18/09,5450m),C1(19/09,5550m),Biv(12-13/10,6100m),Biv(14/10,6300m),xxx(15/10,6350m)

routememo:
  BC   at 5200m at left side of Kangshung Glacier
  ABC  at 5400m at 2-1/2 hours from BC
  Depot at 5450m bottom of East Face
  C1   at 5550m at big crevasse on face
  Biv  at 6100m on face
  Biv  at 6300m on face
  High point at 6350m at East Face.

  No fixed camps above ABC but had use of a depot camp, which did sleep in and bivouacs except a crevasse camp at 5550m. Had many days of snowfall and avalanching, so would retreat when snow came and wait 2 days for avalanches to stop, go up and same pattern repeated. Crevasse camp at 5500m buried when Ferenci and Varkonyi were in it but not hurt. Later Ferenci taken down by avalanche going down to depot camp (taken 250m down slope but not hurt). Both depot and crevasse camps flattened by avalanches other times. Would like to go back again to route in spring time. Goes in spring 2001 to Everest South to become first Hungarian atop Everest.


expid: EVER01303
peakid: EVER
year: 2001
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Hungary
leaders: Laszlo Mecs
sponsor: Hungarian Millenium Mt. Everest Expedition
approach: KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 2001-09-04
smtdate: 2001-10-16
termdate: 2001-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to death of member
campsites: BC(04/09),ABC(10/09,6430m),C1(21/09,7000m),C2(22/09,7800m),xxx(16/10,7800m)
accidents: Keresztesi badly frostbitten fingers during descent and snowblindness; Gardos fatal fall in storm
agency: None
routememo:
  C1 at 7000m at North Col
  C2 at 7800m at North Ridge.

  Some members had acclimatization climb in Ladakh. After C3 23rd down to BC for rest intending to push to C3 at 8300m and on to top end of Sept. Left BC 29 Sept: 2 up, Markos and Nedeckz; 30 Sept Eross, Mecs, Ugyan and Keresztesi (the main summit team) and Borszaki and Foldes to ABC, arrived ABC 1 Oct. Gardos (the doctor), Kertesz and Bradacs on 1 Oct up and at ABC on 2 Oct. Now bad weather (snowfall). Markos and Nedeckz went to C1 3 Oct; 4th tried to go higher but snow sent them back to ABC. 4th Oct Eross, Keresztesi, Foldes and Borszeki to C1 and 5th ABC because much snow and avalanching. Down to BC 8 Oct. Now Foldes and Borszeki left expedition on 10 Oct. 11 Oct Gardos and Kertesz up from BC with Keresztesi, already at ABC in last 1-2 days to make trail as high as possible, to put gear at C3 site. 12 Oct summiters Eross, Mecs, Ugyan and Bradacs from BC and arrived in ABC 13 Oct. Strong wind and no one went above ABC. Now all members in ABC on 13th. 14th Gardos and Keresztesi to North Col on icy surface and ropes buried under snow and slept there but windy and cloudy. 15th in Col camp and all others in ABC. 16th both up to C2, while very windy and slept in C2. 17th 4 from ABC towards Col; Markos, Eross and Mecs did reach Col but very strong wind; slept in Col and waited for Gardos and Keresztesi in C2 to join others in C1; 2 pm (Chinese Time) radioed from C2 starting down and those in C1 went to help them descend but did not see them, but at Col very strong wind in which could not stand up, went down to Col camp on hands and knees. 9:00 pm Mecs saw Keresztesi 50m away and he reached camp, very tired and face covered down. Keresztesi realized Gardos not coming down, Keresztesi started up again, 20m up saw Gardos when signalled he was going up. Gardos not seen again while Keresztesi returned to C1. Next day Eross and Markos up to find Gardos but in C2 no Gardos and no indication he had been in it. On 19th Gardos' body found on Rongbuk Glacier at 6700m and found new tent with him and some he tried to pitch tent and in strong wind, it blew him off like a sail. He fell 1100m; all body's bones broken, buried in crevasse. Climb finished.


expid: GAN681101
peakid: GAN6
year: 1981
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiroyasu Shirakabe
ascent1: 1st?
bcdate: 1981-03-24
smtdate: 1981-05-05
termdate: 1981-05-13
othersmts: Attempted Ganesh II (GAN2-811-01)
campsites: BC(24/03,4750m),Smt(05/05)
achievment: 1st ascent of Ganesh VI
primid: GAN281101
routememo:
  Number of  higher camps, if any, not known.

  At the time of this climb, the expedition believed that the peak was unnamed.

  Ganesh VI summit reached on May 5 by Shinichiro Kasai and Yuichi Fukuoka via its SE Ridge (according to Osamu Tanabe, summiter on Japanese team to Ganesh VI in Spring 2000). 1981 success was 1st ascent of Ganesh VI.


expid: GURK01401
peakid: GURK
year: 2001
route1: S Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Song Jong-Gil
sponsor: 2001-2002 Korea Winter Gurkarpo Ri Expedition
approach: Langtang Khola->Langshisa Kharka->Trupaikul->Langshisa Glacier
bcdate: 2001-12-11
smtdate: 2001-12-22
termdate: 2001-12-26
termnote: Abandoned at 5500m due to avalanche danger and cold
campsites: BC(11/12,4800m),ABC(14/12,5000m),xxx(22/12,5500m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at 4800m on glacier
  ABC at bottom of steep section of glacier.

  Above ABC had avalanche problem and route making problem because of this; tried two difficult lines but found both exposed to avalanching problems. Above ABC was icefall and then 100m rock face. Everyday avalanching down those faces. Fixed rope one day, avalanche broke it quickly on route they climbed highest on. Sherpas did no route making, went only once above ABC. Was very cold: perhaps -15 degrees. 

  Route used went up South Face beneath Col between Gurkarpo Ri. Intended route up face to Col and then SE Ridge of Gurkarpo Ri.


expid: HCHI01301
peakid: HCHI
year: 2001
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Takashi Shiro
sponsor: Osaka Eiho Alpine Club Autumn 2001 Expedition to Hunchi
bcdate: 2001-09-17
smtdate: 2001-10-11
termdate: 2001-10-14
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(17/09,5150m),ABC(28/09,5200m),C1(30/09,5950m),C2(03/10,6200m),C3(07/10,6600m),xxx(11/10,6700m)
achievment: 1st attempt Hunchi
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at Nojumba Glacier
  ABC at east of glacier, at bottom of ice wall
  C1 at SW Ridge above wall
  C2 at SW Ridge
  C3 at snow plateau of ridge

  Changed route from NE Ridge as intended because Nojumba Glacier very bad crevasses. From ABC ice wall to 600m of 50-60 degree steepness. Above ice wall 150m rock. C1 on SW Ridge. C1 to C2 knife ridge and some technical difficulty C2 to C3. C3 on snow plateau of ridge. Next was rock face with snow ridge on left side but deep soft snow on this ridge which snowbar was useless, so abandoned climb. 11th Oct slept in C3 members and C2 "Sherpas". 12th Oct ABC. If went again to Hungchi would follow on same route - had no avalanches. Wants to come again in autumn.


expid: KGUR01301
peakid: KGUR
year: 2001
route1: SW Face-NW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Yannick Graziani
sponsor: Mantagnes du Monde Kang Guru Expedition
ascent1: 20th,22nd,23rd
countries: Germany
approach: Marshyangdi River->Naur Kola->Meta village
bcdate: 2001-10-02
smtdate: 2001-10-09
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2001-10-17
campsites: BC(02/10,4200m),C1(06/10,5400m),C2(07/10,6200),Smt(09,13-14/10)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Montagnes du Monde
routememo:
  BC at 6000m above Meta, due east of Meta
  C1 on slope above BC
  C2 on SW Face.

  From C1 to C2 traversed right and then up left on easy ridge without crevasses to SW Face. From C2 on SW Face on up face to West Ridge at about 6600m and then right (north[?]) along West Ridge to top. All 4 members slept in C2 nights of 7th and 8th. On 9th Wagnon went to top alone for summit bid while, others three went down, not having acclimatized well. Wagnon took 3-1/2 hours to top at 1:30 pm when was cloudy (very warm weather). All in BC night of 9th. 

  All 4 up from BC on 11 Oct by McIntyre and Saugat, who slept in C1; all up to C2 on 12th. On 13th Wagnon up again with Sauget; Wagnon slept on top be sure in morning of 14th to get good pictures. Graziani stayed in C2 to find whether McIntyre had recovered from headcold and could go to top on 15th, but she had not so down to BC. Graziani went to the top himself on the 14th.


expid: KGUR01302
peakid: KGUR
year: 2001
route1: SW Face-NW Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Olivier Rohart
sponsor: Mantagnes du Monde Kang Guru Expedition
ascent1: 21st
bcdate: 2001-10-05
smtdate: 2001-10-13
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2001-10-16
campsites: BC(05/10,4370m),C1(07/10,5400m),C2(12/10,6200m),Smt(13/10)
accidents: Fall by Vincent Van Caillie and Phu Dorje only thing serious
achievment: 1st Belgium summiter
agency: Montagnes du Monde
routememo:
  BC just above (southeast of) Meta village 3600m
  C1 due east of Meta village
  C2 snow slope on west side.

  At 5900m found previous teams camp; above C1 to this place till on rock with short snow couloir in middle but more rocks above it and finally snow slope on west side of mountain. Above C2 45 degrees to ridge of ice and hard snow. Monterisi left C2 alone (Rohart supposed to go up too, but had terrible headache) at 9:00 am and on top 1:30 pm in mostly clear weather with occasional clouds drifting from Annapurnas. Down to C1 that night. Rohart returned to C2; C3 on 14th. 

  On 15th Vincent and Phu Dorje up from C2 for top but at only 40m above C2, Vincent fell. Phu Dorje had one broken arm and other twisted arm. Rohart aborted his summit plans and went to help them. Phu Dorje went alone to to BC while Rohart escorted Vincent towards C1. Rohart went up to C2 to bring down gear while French escorted to BC. Monterisi went on Marshyangdi River to telephone KTM for evacuation helicopter, then back to Meta.

  Route was West Face, but north of normal, previous route and reached NW Ridge below normal route.

  Van den Boussche and Van Dierendonck went to C1 for one night only and left expedition 11 Oct. Van Dierendonck had bad headache and both decided to stop.


expid: KTEG01401
peakid: KTEG
year: 2001
route1: E Pillar
nation: France
leaders: Christophe Profit
sponsor: Manutan Kangtega Expedition
ascent1: 13th
approach: Dudh Kosi->Surke-> E & N to Tangnag & on to Hinku Nup Glacier
bcdate: 2001-11-24
smtdate: 2001-12-05
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2001-12-07
campsites: BC(24/11,5000m),Biv1(02/12,6000m),Biv2(03/12,6300m),Biv3(04/12,6000m),Smt(05/12)
achievment: New route to 6400m
agency: Numbur Himal Treks
routememo:
  BC  on Hinku Nup Glacier just NE of junction with Kangtega Glacier
  Biv on East Pillar
  Biv on East Pillar
  Biv on S Face.

  North Face mountain attempted because too much snow. First acclimatized up Kangtega Glacier on normal route to 6000m, where left small tent for descent. Glacier to Profit's base camp very difficult with many stones (and dangerous when lot of snow). On 26 Nov went around to see North Face and saw too much snow and decided to climb instead East Pillar and returned to BC 26th. 28th to normal route for acclimatization and 29th to BC. 2nd Dec to face. Biv at 6000m on 2nd Dec, 3rd biv at 6300m. Pillar very safe after small gully at 5300m, very dangerous seracs above. 4th arrived on shoulder at 6400m and now most difficult part finished: rock steep (need special rock shoes) and mixed rock and ice in same places. Now decided easy to traverse to normal route. Traversed to South Face to 6000m at biv left of couloir and slept there. 5th to summit by normal route on South Face. East Pillar stopped at shoulder and above dangerous seracs. From summit down to BC same day 8:00 pm in full moon. Last day, 5th very strong wind all day. Had left biv at 6000m at 8:00 am for top, on top at 2:00 pm.


expid: LANG01301
peakid: LANG
year: 2001
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Takaharu Hayashi
sponsor: Osaka Workers Alpine Federation (OWAF) Langtang Expedition 2001
approach: Langtang village->Langtang Khola->Kangchu Gompa
bcdate: 2001-10-14
smtdate: 2001-11-06
termdate: 2001-11-16
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to lack of strong manpower and deep snow
campsites: BC(14/10,4200m),ABC(15/10,4800m),C1(27/10,5500m),C2(05/11,6100m),xxx(06/11,6300m)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC on edge of Langtang Glacier
  C1 on SE Ridge
  C2 on SE Ridge
  High piont on SE Ridge.

  No space for C1 in normal site so put camp higher than normal; biv at around 5400m hoping to make platform for camp but not possible. Then bad weather (snowfall) and down to BC. 

  Another try (they had been on 1st attempt but only to C2). 13 Nov to C2. 14th Nov Sakakibira caught cold and Kitamura to 6300m above to recover his ice axe in good snow and health but "our condition not so good" and Kitamura did not feel strong enough to summit at 4900m and fixed rest of route. Only one experienced Sherpa who could climb this route well and 25 Oct was fired because of too much drinking. Kitamura would like to return but comes in early Sept.

  Hayashi left expedition on 26 Oct as wasn't interested in climbing any more.

  Konishi and Kunieda also left on 26th - too difficult.

  Imai left on 21 Oct after deciding he could not reach summit and was not well acclimatized.

  So at end of October only 4 members and 1 Sherpa remained; remaining Sherpa inexperienced climber and members not in "good condition."


expid: LHOT01401
peakid: LHOT
year: 2001
route1: S Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Osamu Tanabe
sponsor: 40th Anniversary JAC-Tokai Winter Lhotse South Face Exp 2001
approach: Via Chhukung to Lhotse Glacier and on glacier
bcdate: 2001-11-14
smtdate: 2001-12-18
termdate: 2001-12-25
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to fierce winds
campsites: BC(14/11,5200m),C1(01/12,5900m),C2(06/12,7100m),xxx(18/12,7600m)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  BC north of Island Peak
  C1 on South Face 
  C2 on South Face
  High point on South Face.

  In Nov made route to C1 but had ice blocks and rock falls, very dangerous, so could not make C1 at 6400m, so made camp at 5900m instead. Very strong winds on 18th and 19th Dec and so gave up. Tanabe slept in C2 both nights. 20th Tanabe climbed to 7300m but could go no higher with such winds and decided to stop expedition. Face is about 3300m high. 

  All 5 members and 8 Sherpas used oxygen sleeping in C2; above C2 members and Sherpas used above C2 on 18th Tanabe and 2 Sherpas used it (Sherpas only in morning when very cold); Tobita used in BC when sick. 

  4 Japanese hit by rock fall; some Sherpas also. Above C1 to C2 dangerous from rock fall after 8:30 am so Sherpas started climbing at midnight and Japanese at 4:00 am. Below 7000m not so cold, but at C2 -30 to -35 degrees. Not difficult technically.

  Route was near 1981 Yugoslav route.

accidents:
  Tobita cerebral edema, went to BC only and left exped 26 Nov; Suzuki had chronic back pain, went to C1 once and left exped 15 Dec


expid: MAK201301
peakid: MAK2
year: 2001
route1: SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jean Annequin
sponsor: French Kangchungtse Expedition
ascent1: 25th,26th
bcdate: 2001-10-09
smtdate: 2001-10-21
smttime: 1050
campsites: BC(09/10,5400m),ABC(11/10,5850m),C1(13/10,6250m),C2(15/10,6800m),C3(20/10,7400m),Smt(21-22/10)
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at Chago Glacier
  ABC on rocks near glacier
  C1  at flat area of Chago Glacier just below step section
  C2  at steep glacier
  C3  at Makalu La.

  From Makalu La climbed on Tibetan side of Kangchungtse's SE Ridge on SE Face about 100m to top. Left C3 at 8:30 on 21st by Challeat, Debrueres and Hohm and Pemba and Lhakpa Rita Sherpas and were on top at 10:50-11:00 am. Easy climb to top on hard snow. Down to C2 same day except Pemba. 

  22nd Bardou, Charpentier and Vuilenim and Pemba again; took 2-1/2 hours to top from C3 because very windy and down to C2.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba from Taksindu, Everest 1999


expid: MANA01301
peakid: MANA
year: 2001
route1: NE Face
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Josef Kubicek
sponsor: Manaslu 2000
bcdate: 2001-10-02
smtdate: 2001-10-21
termdate: 2001-10-23
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to unstable glacier above 6500m
campsites: BC(02/10,4850m),C1(06/10,5700m),C2(16/10,6500m),xxx(21/10,6600m)
agency: Nepal Trans Himalayan Explorer
routememo:
  Too much snow and wind and problem with Japanese expedition, who not were willing to cooperate. Asked Czechs to provide 1000m and $2400 but Czechs had only 300m of rope and no dollars. So Japanese said Czechs couldn't use their "Japanese" route. 2 expedition liaison officers talked together and polite Japanese LO said Czechs could use "Japanese route" and ropes (this was on 6 Oct and Czechs did climb route). Now snow and very strong winds, but got to C2 on 16 Oct. 17th down to BC to rest. 19 Oct up to C1 and 20th to C2. 21st found glaciers above was not safe to attempt; Lhakpa Dorje and Kalamaznik went up onto glacier to 6600m and found glacier too unstable to go higher safely, so all down to BC that day and climb finished.


expid: MANA01302
peakid: MANA
year: 2001
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Kazuyoshi Kondo
sponsor: JWAF Mt. Manaslu Expedition 2001
ascent1: 77th
bcdate: 2001-09-15
smtdate: 2001-10-09
smttime: 1400
campsites: BC(15/09,4850m),C1(21/09,5750m),C2(29/09,6750m),C3(08/10,7500m),Smt(09/10)
accidents: Nothing except Kuribara's death
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C2 at 200m below North Col
  C3 on summit plateau - end of plateau.

  1st group for summit push from C3 at 7:00 am and reached top 2:00-4:00 pm (2:00 pm by Paldan Namgyal and Rahar Bahadur Tamang with Kurahashi; 2:30 Saito, 3:00 Okuba; 3:00 Phinzo). 

  11th 2nd group to C3: Kondo, Ueno, Kuribara and Tika Gurung. Night of 10th non-stop very strong wind and could not move up from C3 because of wind on 11th and slept in C3; "our hopes crushed" and 12th decided to abandon climb. So on 12th 2nd attack party descended from C3: Kuribara had altitude sickness (cerebral) and descended very slowly; Kondo went down with him, both clipped to fixed rope (Kondo had to unclip and reclip on rope for him); usually C3 to BC in one day easily done but Kuribara's altitude sickness and at dark tried to biv above North Col but Kuribara slipped 200m, lost a crampon but stopped; Gurung had by now gone below C2. 12:00 now and Ueno in North Col so Kudo only one with Kuribara, who descended slowly but in dark they lost route and Kubihara stopped, refused to go further on his feet and slowly down on his back and side slipping. Tika came up to Kubihara and Kondo but he went back down alone with baggage, fearing frostbite. 13th at 7:00 am Kurahashi joined them with oxygen at biv point almost 7000m. Gave oxygen to Kubihara and 2 men carried Kubihara to 6600m temporary camp made by Ueno, where Kuribara died at 2:40 pm and body put into crevasse at 6350m. Kurahashi and Tika to BC that night, while Kondo and Ueno slept. 16th to C1 and helicopter from C1 to KTM. Ueno had frostbite in 1 finger and slight frostbite in 2 and Kondo 2 slightly frostbitten fingers.

  Sherpas: 
    Phinzo, Khumjung, Everest 5/2000
    Palden Namgye/Namgyal, Phortse, Ev 5/2000 with Phinzo
    Rahar Bahadur Tamang, 34, Deusa, Solu, 1st 8000er


  Czech Manaslu leader Kubicek - 30 Oct 2001

  When Czechs arrived after Japanese, Japan Leader said Czechs must contribute 1000m rope to be fixed and $2400 for the cost of fixing it or Czechs could not use "their route" and their rope. The two expeditions liaison officers talked together and polite LO with Japanese said Czechs could use Japanese route and Japanese ropes; this was on 6th Oct and Czechs did climb the route. Czechs had brought only 300m of rope and no dollars with them.


expid: MAKA01301
peakid: MAKA
year: 2001
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Norbert Joos
sponsor: Swiss Makalu Expedition
countries: Italy
bcdate: 2001-10-10
smtdate: 2001-10-28
termdate: 2001-11-01
termnote: Abandoned at 7950m due to blue ice that need rope-fixing and loss of C3 to high winds
campsites: BC(10/10,5600m),ABC(14/10,6500m),C2(15/10,6800m),C3(27,31/10,7650m),xxx(28/10,7950m)
accidents: Schmid lung infection
agency: Himalayan High Country Treks
routememo:
  BC  well up Chago Glacier serac
  ABC at Chago Glacier
  C2  below Makalu La
  C3  above Makalu La.

  Tried summit attack on 28 Oct from C3 to 7950m and then stopped at blue ice where needed to fix more rope than had. Down to BC same day.

  31st started from BC and reached C3 that day at 5:00 pm and found camp had been blown over into Tibet in storm and all gear lost except 2 ice axes, so down to BC at 8:00 pm; "terrible storm" high on mountain. 

  Team delayed arriving at BC because on approach march had gotten stuck in deep snow between Amphu Laptsa and Sherpani Col without food for 4 days. Trekking agent sent helicopter to take them to Lukla and finally to 1 day's march from BC.


expid: NEMJ01401
peakid: NEMJ
year: 2001
route1: SE Face-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Masato Chuma
sponsor: Himlung Himalaya Expedition to Nemjung
approach: Marshyangdi River->up Dudh Khola->Bonthang
bcdate: 2001-11-20
smtdate: 2001-12-04
termdate: 2001-12-12
termnote: Abandoned at 5600m due to dangerous stonefall
campsites: BC(20/11,4300m),C1(01/12,5000m),xxx(04/12,5600m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Expedition had permit for Himlung but had no plan to climb it and went directly to Nemjung without permission.
   
  1 Dec Hashimoto established C1 with 4 Sherpas, but only Hashimoto slept there. Hirata and 3 Sherpas joined Hashimoto in C1 on 3 Dec. 4th Dec Phurba and Lhakpa went up to make route but stopped at 5600m because many stones falling and cutting rope in couloir they were climbing: "very dangerous." 5th Dec Hirata and Phurba up to 5300m on same route to see situation and declared climbing abandoned and all down to BC. 4 Dec hit by stone but not hurt, just slipped down 25m. Intended to traverse over to East Ridge for final approach to top.

  Sherpas: 
    Phurba Chiri/Chhiri, Saframa, Lokhim, 1968
       summited Manaslu 1997 - brother of Lhakpa Chiri
    Lhakpa Chiri, same village on brother Phurba, 16/4/64,
       claims Manaslu 1990


expid: NUMB01301
peakid: NUMB
year: 2001
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dave McNally
sponsor: American Numbur Expedition
bcdate: 2001-09-27
smtdate: 2001-10-07
termdate: 2001-10-16
termnote: Abandoned at 5350m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(27/09,4600m),Depot(30/09,4900m),xxx(07/10,5350m)
accidents: McNally respiratory infection on and off for 5 weeks
agency: Sherpa Alpine Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 4600m at Dudh Kundh valley
  Deposit/depot at 4900m at edge of valley.

  4 members to deposit camp and slept there. Push up onto glacier very difficult because 4-5 feet deep with boulders below and therefore dangerous. Got rain and snow afterwards. Depots tents destroyed and replaced and on 10 Oct McNally went up to 17,500 ft (5350m) by a different line and saw lot of snow higher on mountain. Again bad weather, so 14 Oct decided to quit because of deep snow, no Sherpas and little time left. Never reached SW Ridge.


expid: PUMO01301
peakid: PUMO
year: 2001
route1: SE Face/Ridge-SE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Walter Hungerbuehler
sponsor: Rock & Powder Ama Dablam & Pumori Expedition
ascent1: 136
bcdate: 2001-11-07
smtdate: 2001-11-09
smttime: 0945
termdate: 2001-11-10
othersmts: Climbed Ama Dablam (AMAD-013-13)
campsites: BC(07/11,5400m),C1(08/11,6150m),Smt(09/11)
accidents: Frostbite in right thumb but only very slight
agency: Sherpa & Swiss Adventures
routememo:
  BC at 5400m at near small lake
  C1 at 6250m at top of rib/ridge.

  Summit party of two left C1 at 1:00 pm, reached col at 4:00 am, on top 9:45 am in wind (but not too strong) and clear sky. Down to BC at 5:00 pm. Easier not to put tent and not to spend much time at higher altitude. 

  Other 3 who went to Pumori, Blaetter, Meier Wittwer and Wittwer stayed in BC only because too cold for Blaetter, who also was tired and others were tired.


expid: PUMO01302
peakid: PUMO
year: 2001
route1: NE Face/Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Aritz Artieda
sponsor: Buskal-Herria Pumori Expedition
bcdate: 2001-10-09
smtdate: 2001-10-17
termdate: 2001-10-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6250m due to fatal avalanche
campsites: BC(09/10,5300m),C1(12/10,6200m),xxx(17/10,6250m)
accidents: Fatal avalanche killed 5 climbers
agency: Sea to Summit Trekking
routememo:
  BC above lake at normal place
  C1 at rib on NE Face.

  5 who died went to C1 on 16th Oct. 17th they left C1 for top and were only 50m above C1 when seracs above fell on them in big avalanche and took them 600-800m down. Benantxio saw 2 bodies after helicopter search on 18th, saw backpacks and 19th Benantxio went on foot 500-600m above BC and saw below BC near frozen lake 1 jacket. Then 200m above lake he saw 2 bodies 20m away but did not have right boots for close search; also saw other's jacket. "I know 5 people died in this avalanche" says Benantxio. "We know we must come to visit our friends." "Never Pumori" to climb.


expid: PUMO01304
peakid: PUMO
year: 2001
route1: SE Face/Ridge-E Ridge
nation: Iran
leaders: Zarefeh Rahimzaddeh
sponsor: Iranian Women's Expedition to Pumori
ascent1: 134
bcdate: 2001-10-06
smtdate: 2001-10-20
smttime: 1440
termdate: 2001-10-22
campsites: BC(06/10,5300m),C1(09/10,5700m),C2(11/10,6200m),C3(18/10,6750m),Smt(20/10)
accidents: Sinaki had mild altitude sickness; Salmasi chest infection
achievment: 1st Iranian on mountain, 1st to top
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 5300m near lake of Gorak Shep.

  Did not stay in normal C2 site because too dangerous from avalanches so went from C2 to C3 - "it was a long day" between C1 and C3. Took 9 hours with lunch at tents (never occupied) at C2 site. Sherpas had problem opening 1 route just before C2 to fix rope on different traverse to C2 site, where they pitched 2 tents on 11 Oct. Summit party spent 2 nights in C3 to acclimatize and then on 20 Oct left C3 at 5:00 pm; 2 places with 90-degree ice and Sherpas at first thought women could not manage three difficult places but where woman insisted, Sherpas fixed ropes and all 7 went to top at 2:40 pm and back to C3. "Perfect" weather on summit day. Had one experienced Iranian in summit party; had wanted such a climber on expedition, since this was women's first Himalayan experience. 

  Summit party reached top together in single file in this order: Sonam Dendu Sherpa, Bahrain, Nazari, Sadegh, Cheshmeh with Sherpas Tenzing and Mingma in between the others. 

  Sinaki reached C3 on 18th but mild altitude sickness and down on 19th; Moghaddam also to C3 but not very strong so down on 19th. 

  Asiabanhamadani stayed in BC throughout the climb (he was authorities escort/chaperon/watcher); leader to C1 only.


expid: PUMO01305
peakid: PUMO
year: 2001
route1: SE Face/Ridge-E Ridge
nation: Iran
leaders: Ali Jenab
sponsor: Esfahan Mountaineering Club Pumori Expedition
ascent1: 135
countries: Austria, Switzerland
bcdate: 2001-10-23
smtdate: 2001-10-30
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2001-11-02
campsites: BC(23/10,5400m),C1(26/10,5600m),C2(29/10,6200m),Smt(30/10)
agency: Gurkha's Encounter Adventure Overland
routememo:
  BC same as others (normal site near lake)
  C2 at top of small ridge. 

  C2 in very dangerous place from falling seracs but no other place for a camp. On 30 Oct summit team climbed from C2 at about 5:30 am and went to top via East Ridge on normal route, on summit at 2:00 pm and slept in C1 after returning to C2 at 6:00 pm. Only Hajarian reached top; others who left C2 for top were Jamalifar, Jenab, Egli and Kazi Sherpa but stopped at 6300m because Jenab got headache, Egli not strong and Sherpa back to support him and Jamalifar wanted to descend with Jenab; all slept in C2 that night. Climb now finished.

  Naderi never went above BC (stomach problem) - left expedition 25 Oct.

  Ploessnig also left 25 Oct (reached just above C1 and said he couldn't climb any more) frightened by avalanche danger.


expid: PUMO01306
peakid: PUMO
year: 2001
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Steve Janssen
sponsor: Pumori Launched 2001
countries: Denmark, Iceland, S Africa, UK
bcdate: 2001-10-01
smtdate: 2001-10-14
termdate: 2001-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to lack of rope and time
campsites: BC(01/10,5350m),C1(03/10,5750m),xxx(14/10,6400m)
agency: Beyond Base Camp
routememo:
  BC near others
  C1 at top of rib (normal site)
  High point at 6400m just below (100 m) below Col.

  Had agreement with Iranian leader that Iranian Sherpas would fix ropes above to top of ropes fixed by the team near C2, but leader broke agreement and all went down to BC instead. Badly underequipped for rope to fix; fixed to 6400m and ran out of rope. Climb over with no rope, little time. Half meter of snowfall put climb back a few days (fell on 3 Oct). Avalanching every day, but this expedition untouched.


expid: PUMO01307
peakid: PUMO
year: 2001
route1: S Face-SSW Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Jacek Maselko
sponsor: Patagonia Mountain Agency (PMA) Pumori Expedition 2001
countries: Greece, India, Italy, Netherlands, UK, USA
bcdate: 2001-10-24
smtdate: 2001-11-09
termdate: 2001-11-12
termnote: Abandoned at 5300m due to manpower shortage
campsites: BC(24/10,5200m),C1(02/11,6160m),xxx(09/11,6550m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 5300m near smaller lake at Gorak Shep
  C1 at 6160m on Col of SSW Ridge

  Very difficult to find flat spot for a camp. C1 site dug into 60-degree slope and took a whole day to dig into it. 9 Nov Maselko and Van der Spek up from C1 fixed ropes at 6520m and Maselko leading and Van der Spek belaying Maselko fixed rope 30m higher when Van der Spek on walkie-talkie said to Maselko said his feet very cold and he was going down. Clouds came over, got cold and windy and snow started falling - both down to C1. Now Sherpa had gone home and not available to carry rope for fixing, many members tired, Castelnuovo had to leave to meet trekkers. Only three people left who were technically competent to do job of making route (only competent ones were Maselko, Pawlowski, Castelnuovo and Van der Spek) and needed 2 teams of 2 competent people to alternate fixing rope. So on 10th took down some of ropes and all gear and climb finished. Route technically difficult and steep. 

  Morrow left expedition 5 Nov as route too steep for him. Puhl left 8 Nov because he had to go back to work.


expid: RAKS01301
peakid: RAKS
year: 2001
route1: E Face
nation: UK
leaders: Simon Woods
sponsor: Raksha Urai Expedition 2001
countries: Canada
bcdate: 2001-09-28
smtdate: 2001-10-13
termdate: 2001-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 6480m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(28/09,4100m),ABC(03/10,5000m),C1(08/10,5400m),C2(10/10,5950m),xxx(13/10,6480m)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  ABC at just below glacier
  C1 on glacier
  C2 on East face col between C3 and C4.

  From ABC detoured icefall. From C2 up face of 60-65 degree starting 3:00 am on 13 Oct heading for Raksha Urai IV (6628m according to Leomann map printed in UK). Had ice on this face to 6480m at 4:00 pm and turned back where found bad snow with no possible anchor points; took 9 hours rapelling down to C2 to at 1:00 am of 14th. Slept in C2 that night. Climb finished: no place for a C3 on face to make final attempt in shorter time and perhaps traverse to right of their routes. 

  In another autumn season would go directly to Col if more snow on face. 2 members, Godfrey and De Bank, went to look at west side of mountain but found it completely unapproachable for porters without ropes and climbing; did not see west side mountain from the distance they went towards it.


  Website: see www.virginsummits.org for further information by team.


expid: RAMT01301
peakid: RAMT
year: 2001
route1: SE Face-E Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Karl Pallasmann
sponsor: Ramtang Expedition
approach: Suketar->Taplejung->Kable Khola
bcdate: 2001-10-18
smtdate: 2001-10-22
termdate: 2001-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6630m due to lack of belay spots
othersmts: Minor Drohmo peaks
campsites: BC(18/10,4985m),C1(20/10,5300m),C2(22/10,5600m),xxx(22/10,6630m)
accidents: Perwein pulmonary edema; Egarter and others bronchitis
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Pangpema
  C1 at rock and grass south of southern arm of Kangch Glacier.

  21 Oct Egarter to top of "Mouse" [about 6200m], 22nd Lackner and Pallasmann to top of "Mouse" and Pallasmann went on diagonally up SE Face to 6300m and back to Mouse and from there watched others climbed to "Gratkopf" at 6600m. Egarter, Gfreiner, Koestenbaumer and Danu and Muktu Sherpas started up steepening section (55-degrees) SE Face to East Ridge at 6630m with powder snow up to waist on steep rock. Gfreiner and Koestenbaumer up East Ridge: now no place for belays. Everybody down to C1 (C2 never slept in). Now not possible to mount another attack because they had only one gas stove left and 1 member developed pulmonary edema at 5900m. Climb now finished at Ramtang.

  On 25 Oct Egarter and Gfreiner from Pangpema and ascended to 6225m subsidiary peak of Drohmo.

  Pallasmann left BC on 24th with Perwein, whose oxygen supply finished; others left 26th and all met in Ghunsa.


expid: TENG01301
peakid: TENG
year: 2001
route1: Traverse of S side-S Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: James McGuinness
sponsor: Project Himalaya Kangchenjunga Expedition 2001 to Tengkoma
ascent1: 6th
countries: Canada, Netherlands, USA
bcdate: 2001-10-28
smtdate: 2001-11-07
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2001-11-08
othersmts: Climbed unnamed 6225m peak 3 Nov (other peaks climbed without permit)
campsites: BC(28/10,4800m),ABC(01/11,5560m),C1(06/11,5300m),Smt(07/11)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  BC  at Lhonak (part time occupied village)
  ABC at west of Tsisima Peak (for climb of unnamed peak)
  C1  at SSW of Tengkoma (for climb of Tengkoma).

  30 Oct all trekked north from Lhonak along Lhonak Glacier and made camp beside glacier at 5200m. 31st camped at 5400m also beside glacier. 1st Nov Lidstone, Garrett and Schone returned to Lhonak. 2 Nov McGuinness and Vivequin moved on north to 5560m where made camp for climbs in that area; north to Paso Chabuk La (6150m) into Tibet, which hasn't been used for many years; and returned to camp same day. 3 Nov McGuinness and Lobsang from Ladakh (Tibetan) at 9:00 am left camp (5560m) and climbed/scrambled on rock to 6100m on southwest side of on unnamed peak 6225m and on top at 12:00 noon and returned to camp at 1:30 pm, went south to camp at 5200m. 4th to Lhonak and there joined other three members. 

  6th all fine and from Lhonak to Tengkoma and camped at 5300m. SSW of summit, 400m from bottom of mountain at place where grass stops and rock begins. 7th to top by 4 members, but Lidstone turned back at 5900m because he was too slow. 4 got to top at 12:30 pm (left camp 6:30 am and back to camp at 4:00 pm). Most of climb was essentially scrambling on loose dangerous [rock] through 2 gullies; rest 150m crevasses on South Ridge, then climbed on snow; summit again rock and had 3 cairns on it. Slept 7th at 5300m camp. 8th to Lhonak and on southwest to Khenbacen (a grazing area) at 4100m and camped there. 9th eastwards in Khumbhakarna/Jannu glacier to look at possibility of climbing Merra Peak, northwest of Jannu's North Face. 3 members to Ghunsa while McGuinness and Vivequin camped on north side of glacier where Jannu North Face expeditions make BC. Discouraged from attempting to climb Merra by presence of 2 adult snow leopards and cubs. 10th stayed at this camp at 4500m (worried about leopard attack if climbed and surprised to see humans then). 11th abandoned idea of climbing Merra and went south to Ghunsa.

  This was Schone's 2nd ascent (he had 3-man team in Aut 2000).


expid: TILI01301
peakid: TILI
year: 2001
route1: NE Spur-N Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Gerhard Pitzek-Bischof
sponsor: Austrian Tilicho Expedition
approach: Beshisahar->Manang->Khangsar
bcdate: 2001-10-30
smtdate: 2001-11-06
termdate: 2001-11-07
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to frostbitten fingers of Ranier and weather
campsites: BC(30/10,5000m),C1(03/11,5900m),C2(05/11,6300m),xxx(06/11,6600m)
accidents: The middle and ring finger of right hand of Ranier were frostbitten
agency: Churen Himal Treks
routememo:
  BC little above the lake side
  C1 at NE Spur
  C2 at North Ridge
  High point at beginning of rocks on North Ridge.

  On Nov 6 Kabusch and Ranier along with three Nepalese left the C2 at 03:00 hours. Weather was windy and very cold. About 04:30 hours near to the rocks Ranier had to re-fix one of his crampons. While doing that he got his fingers frostbitten. Kabusch's body was feeling numb, then all of then descended to BC at about 13:00 hours. Ranier said that he could not say how bad the fingers are. It will be known after one or two weeks.
   
  Kriegl remained at BC all time as she had headache and cough.

  Pitzek-Bischof and Unterlercher reached up to 5000m on Nov 3 and Zmoelnig went up to 5900m.

  The expedition team returned to KTM on Nov 15 and will leave on the 16th (evening).


expid: TILI01302
peakid: TILI
year: 2001
route1: N Ridge via NE Spur
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Marcel Kraaz
sponsor: Swiss Tilicho Expedition
ascent1: 28th
countries: Germany
approach: Jomsom->Muktinath->Thorang La->Manang->Khangsar->Tilicho Lake
bcdate: 2001-10-16
smtdate: 2001-10-28
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2001-11-03
campsites: BC(16/10,5000m),C1(20/10,5850m),C2(26/10,6250m),Smt(28/10)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  BC near lake
  C1 at East Spur
  C2 at North Ridge.

  Left C2 at 03:00 hours, Kraaz and Roetheli-Landolt reached summit at 09:00 hours, spent about 15 minutes. Kraaz descended to BC Roetheli-Landolt to C1. Prechtel, Stehle, G. Stingl and P. Stingl reached up to 6800m with Ang Gyalu Lama. They were scared and not experienced. Stehle made second attempt for summit on Nov 01. Got up to C2 and gave up due to tiredness.

  Difficult part of the route was approach to C1.

  Note: left BC: 
    1) Nussbaumer on Oct 20 - no motivation for climbing. Left Nepal on 24th. 
    2) Koenig, Prechtel and Werner on Oct 30. Werner remained around BC (old age). 

  Sherpas: 
    Ang Gyalu Lama
    Ang Pema Sherpa.

  The members returned to KTM on Nov 5 and will leave on Nov 7.


expid: TUKU01301
peakid: TUKU
year: 2001
route1: N Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Gerhard Friedl
sponsor: Tukuche Peak Expedition
approach: Beni->Tatopani->Muri->Ital BC->Icefall BC->Dha BC->French Pass
bcdate: 2001-10-19
smtdate: 2001-10-26
termdate: 2001-10-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to shortage of time and strength
campsites: BC(19/10,5050m),C1(20/10,5600m),C2(25/10,6200m),xxx(26/10,6800m)
accidents: Neudecker got cold and fever, headache, left BC with trekking group on 21 Oct
agency: Karyang Kurung Treks
routememo:
  BC at Hidden Valley, under the North Ridge
  C1 at usual campsite
  C2 on the saddle
  High point at subsidiary summit.

  On Oct 26 Friedl, Schoenauer and Streif went down near to saddle leading to main summit. It was late and returned to C2. They estimated that from C2 more climbing not possible as they were getting tired and running out of time. If they tried to summit, they felt that there should be a camp on the saddle leading to summit, which was not possible for them to do due to time factor and tiredness.

  The  expedition returned to KTM on Nov 1, leaves Nepal on 5th. They will be moving to Pilgrim Guest House.


expid: CHOY01336
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: Argentina
leaders: Silvio Antonio Belotti
sponsor: Independent team (on Martini permit)
countries: Mexico
bcdate: 2001-09-10
smtdate: 2001-09-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(10/09),ABC(14/09,5700m),C1(19/09,6420m),C2(20/09,7100m),xxx(20/09,7100m)
accidents: Alfaro bronchitis in C2 on 21 Sept
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  After C2 down to ABC to rest and stayed 5 days, then 30 Sept up to C1.

  1 Oct to intermediate camp (tent of Focus team) at 6850m and slept there. 2 Oct down to ABC because of deep snow and strong wind.


expid: CHOY01335
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Dean Staples
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Cho Oyu Expedition 2001
countries: Australia, Austria, Luxembourg, USA
bcdate: 2001-09-09
smtdate: 2001-10-01
termdate: 2001-10-06
termnote: Abandoned at 7650m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(09/09),ABC(12/09,5200m),C1(18/09,6400m),C2(23/09,7000m),C3(30/09,7500m),xxx(01/10,7650m)
accidents: Phu Dorje Sherpa altitude sickness & Mingma Sherpa stomach problem; Wendel knee problem
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  1 Oct C3 at 2:00 am NST by Staples, Roberts, Dowdy, Taske and Chuldim Dorje left for top and all to 7650m and then turned back in snowfall and wind. Went to C3 hoping for 2nd attempt next day, but weather did not improve and down to C2 on 1st. Climb finished.

  Dobler and Voss left after both getting to C1 and Voss to 6600m (this was their maximum ability).


expid: CHOY01334
peakid: CHOY
year: 2001
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Todd Burleson
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Cho Oyu Expedition 2001
countries: Canada, Switzerland
bcdate: 2001-09-09
smtdate: 2001-09-27
termdate: 2001-10-10
termnote: Abandoned at 7420m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(11/09),ABC(14/09,5700m),C1(21/09,6400m),C2(26/09,7000m),xxx(27/09,7420m)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  26th made C2 and 27th, dumped gear at C3 site and down to ABC. Up for summit push on 1 Oct to C1. 2nd tried to go to C2 but stepped at 22,000 ft by heavy snowfall: were Madden, Mathy, Witzig, Burleson, Benetiz, McCarthy, Morton, Peterson, Juma, Lhakpa Rita, Chirring and Mingma (Thami) and down to C1. 3rd to C2 after snow had consolidated (not Juma, Peterson and Madden). 4th snowed very hard and stayed in C2. 5th again snowing hard and blowing so whiteout. Now weather deteriorating and climb abandoned.


expid: DZAN49101
peakid: DZAN
year: 1949
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Alfred Sutter
ascent1: 1st
bcdate: 1949-05-19
smtdate: 1949-06-30
termdate: 1949-07-18
campsites: BC,C1,C2,Smt(30/06)
primid: PYRM49101
othersmts:
  Climbed Tengkoma (TENG-491-01) and Sphinx (SPHN-491-01); attempted Ohmi Kangri (OHMI-491-01) and Pyramid Peak (PYRM-491-01); recon Kangbachen (KANB-491-01) and Drohmo (DROM-491-01)


expid: AMAD02101
peakid: AMAD
year: 2002
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Fabrizio Zangrilli
sponsor: Ultimate Ascents Ama Dablam Spring 2002 Expedition
bcdate: 2002-03-29
smtdate: 2002-04-14
termdate: 2002-04-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6150m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(29/03,4500m),C1(02/04,5500m),xxx(14/04,6150m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  High point 6150m on ridge on last tower before C2 site.

  Fixed 550m rope to 9m below C2 site (therefore to 6150m) and then "big dump" of snow for 3 days. When went back up, found deep insecure snow above waist in some sections so very dangerous - needed to let snow melt or get blown away and looked like more snow coming. 

  Zehender, Zangrilli's client, had limited time so climb finished. When rock is clear, good climbing, but route technically difficult.


expid: AMAD02102
peakid: AMAD
year: 2002
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Mark Watson
sponsor: Ama Dablam Southwest Ridge 2002
bcdate: 2002-04-09
smtdate: 2002-04-21
termdate: 2002-04-23
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to lack of strength and time
campsites: BC(09/04,4600m),ABC(11/04,5300m),C1(13/04,5800m),C2(18/04,6000m),C3(19/04,6300m),xxx(21/04,6500m)
accidents: 3 cases of chest infection
agency: Holiday Mountain Treks
routememo:
  High point at top right side of Ama Dablam.

  21st late in day at high point and tired, lightning storm discouraging and just about every day snow in afternoon. No time to go down to rest and return to climb. 

  By now only 4 members left; other 3 left BC 15 April: Lindsey found mountain not for him and never went above BC, Dorrell got to ABC and MacDonald to C1 once; not really well. Sherpa also had bouts of illness, so load carrying strength insufficient from early days on mountain.


expid: AMAD02103
peakid: AMAD
year: 2002
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Hans Kammerlander
ascent1: 376
bcdate: 2002-04-12
smtdate: 2002-04-25
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2002-04-27
campsites: BC(12/04,4600m),C1(14/04,5600m),Smt(25/04)
agency: Global Adventure Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at bottom of mountain.

  "I like Ama Dablam - it's beautiful mountain and not dangerous." Will bring group of clients next year. This climb was for a German film team doing film about Khumbu, its people and mountains, etc. After 2 nights in C1, down to BC to rest and see about weather. All 3 members left BC 24 April, one night in C1, 25th 3:00 am up from C1 to top at 12:00 noon and down to BC 7:00 pm - "a long day." Weather at that time was very cold but clear sky and got very good pictures of this sky with clouds moving in modest wind.

  Seeber turned back at 6500m because afraid of his toes would get frostbitten.

  In BC -26 degrees C at midnight. 

  Brought down 30 kilos of old fixed rope.


expid: AMAD02104
peakid: AMAD
year: 2002
route1: NE Ridge/Spur (NZ 2000 rte)
nation: Spain
leaders: Nemesio Matalobos
sponsor: GBA Sara 2002
approach: Dingboche->Ama Dablam Glacier
bcdate: 2002-04-16
smtdate: 2002-04-25
termdate: 2002-04-27
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to all food taken by birds
campsites: BC(16/04,5087m),xxx(25/04,5900m)
accidents: Huarte mild altitude sickness only.
agency: Ramdung Expedition
routememo:
  18 April fixing rope and did this for 8 days, every night sleeping in BC (fixed to 5900m). Then decided not to continue: one member "not good condition" and "big problem with food." On 25 April carried food to 5900m and left gear there but when went up on 26th found birds had taken all food from paper containers and no food left.


expid: ANN102101
peakid: ANN1
year: 2002
route1: N Face (starting with 74 Span route)
nation: UK
leaders: Alan Hinkes
sponsor: Independent climber
ascent1: 39th
bcdate: 2002-04-26
smtdate: 2002-05-06
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2002-05-10
campsites: BC(26/04,4200m),ABC(01/05,4800m),C1(02/05,5300m),C2(03/05,6400m),C3(05/05,7000m),Smt(06/05)
accidents: Had several infections from walk-in
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  BC  was "quite low"
  ABC at normal site he assumes.

  Route used was same as Koreans and Indians. Nearly hit by couple of rocks falling when he was climbing in afternoon, too late for safety. Most avalanching was right of route that he, Koreans and Indians (10:30 am) used because filming. Good weather but at top slight snowfall started and got heavier and white-out developed before reached C3 and Indians tracks covered and no ropes available. Roped up with Phu Nurbu for lower half of route till some clearing of visability. Back to C3 4:00-5:00 pm. 7 May down to below ABC, where started getting dark and had to biv at 6:30 pm (1 hour above BC) on ledge. Finally at BC on 8 May. Indians had stripped mountain of their camps and all fixed ropes.


expid: ANN102102
peakid: ANN1
year: 2002
route1: N Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Oh Hee-Joon
sponsor: 2002 Jeju Korea Annapurna Expedition
ascent1: 37th
bcdate: 2002-03-28
smtdate: 2002-05-04
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2002-05-09
campsites: BC(28/03,4200m),ABC(01/04,5100m),C1(06/04,5600m),C2(19/04,6400m),C3(03/05,7200m),Smt(04/05)
accidents: Oh Dong-Geun and Hyun injured going to ABC and to C1 only
agency: Echo Himal
routememo:
  BC as same site as Indians and UK
  C2 at top of rib/ridge to left of Dutch Rib (same as Spanish 1974 to this point).

  3 May C3 slept in by Oh Hea-Joon, Serap Jangbu, Jagat Tamang and Lhakpa Tshering (Tshiri). 4th May Jagat, Lhakpa, Serap and Oh left C3 12:00 midnight of 3/4 May; Jagat turned back about 7800m (getting cold) while other three on to top at 10:00 am in clear sky and little wind only but very cold - slept again in C3 and climb finished. 

  Had tried for top 3 times before: 20 April to 6800m by leader, Oh Dong-Jin, 4 Sherpas; 25 April only to C2 but too much wind and snowfall (on 20th also) for Oh Kyeong-Hun, Oh Hee-Joon and Oh Dong-Jin. 29 April only to C1, snow and wind stopped another bid by Oh Dong-Jin and 4 Sherpas. 

  Kim left expedition 6 April to return to Korea. Fixed rope to ABC twice: 1st time 1000m through icefall and here Hyun and Oh Dong-Geun hurt by ice falling on them (no broken bones) and made route around to left of icefall area on rock where fixed 600m. Fixed more ropes ABC->C1 500m; C1->C2, 1600m; C2->C3 700m, C3 to top 600m; all ropes fixed by Koreans and Indians together. Avalanche broke a tent at C2 on 30 April, but none other - no other avalanche problems.

  Summit Sherpas: 
    Serap Jangbu, 25/7/69, Khumjung, already summited
    Lhakpa Tshering, about 28 yrs, Khumjung, Everest X1 (25/5/01)


expid: ANN102103
peakid: ANN1
year: 2002
route1: N Face via ridge E of Dutch Rib (74 Span rte)
nation: India
leaders: Col S. C. Sharma
sponsor: Indian Army Annapurna I Expedition 2002
ascent1: 38th
countries: Nepal
bcdate: 2002-04-04
smtdate: 2002-05-06
smttime: 0720
termdate: 2002-05-09
campsites: BC(04/04,4200m),ABC(15/04,5300m),C1(17/04,5800m),C2(19/04,6400m),C3(01/05,7350m),Smt(06/05)
accidents: Frostbite: Phurba Jangbu, Surjeet Singh and Dendi
achievment: 1st Indian ascent
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  From 23 April long stretches of wind and snowfall, hence delay in occupying C3. At BC had one foot snow. 28 April such fierce wind in night, BC tents battered and tarpoulin blown off: had to put rocks in tents to hold them down; toilet tent blown away. On 5 May when summit party going to C3, stones were falling when they about 7000m and Sherpas got hit on feet (not seriously). 5 May 23:00 out for top by 4 members and 3 Sherpas, all of whom summited, the Sherpas having gone from ABC to C3 earlier that day and 3 members from C1 to C3. All on top about 7:20 am in clear windless morning and could see Dhaulagiri, Machhapuchhare. Down to C3 2:30 pm and to BC 7 May.

  First summit bid (unsuccessful): climbers divided into 2 teams of 9 members in one and 8 in the other. 1st team set out for top on 3 May at 3:30 am in slightly windy weather, fixing rope in a few critical places as they went, while 2nd team up from C2 to C3. But when 2nd team was near C3, 1st group radioed them that they would be unable to descend to C2, as planned and not enough room in C3 for both teams, 1st group returned to C2. 1st group encountered strong wind and snow falling resulting in white-out, so they turned back at 7000m, to stay in C3 that night. During this attempt, Phurba Jangbu's toes very badly frostbitten and some will have to be amputated; Surjeet Singh's nose frostbitten but will heal; Dendi Sherpa's cheek suffered very slight frostbite (really chilblain) but also will be Ok. Temperature was -40 to -50 degrees.


  Email from M. S. Chauhan - 16 July 2009

  Following members were with me on that summit attempt: Maj S. P. Malik, Palden Giacho, Surjit Singh, Amar Prakash, Neel Chand, C Angchuk along with four Sherpas: Dawa Sherpa, Pasang Sherpa, Rinzi Sherpa and Dawa. I along with, Neel Chand, Surjit Singh, Amar Prakash and C Angchuk reached up to 8009m. After staying below the summit (approx 50-70m) for one hour plus we turned back to C3 at 13:30 and reached there by 19:30 hours on 3 May 2002.


  Email from M. S. Chauhan - July 30 2009

  S. P. Malik was not keeping well, so when he reached half way he was almost one hour behind all of us. Seeing his progress leader asked Giacho to turn back and accompany S. P. Malik down to C3.

  They must have reached up to approximately 7600m and moved back at about 11 am. We all turned back due to heavy winds snow storm and white-out condition.


  Summit Sherpas:
    Pasang Rinji, Kharikhola, 25, Everest with Indians 24/5/01
    Lhakpa Thudu (aka Lhakpa Thundu), Pangboche, Ev 23/5/02
    Tashi Dorje (aka Ang Tashi), Cho Oyu X2, 31 yrs old


expid: ANN102104
peakid: ANN1
year: 2002
route1: E Ridge via S Face of Glacier Dome
nation: Spain
leaders: Alberto Inurrategi, Ed Viesturs
sponsor: International Annapurna 2002
ascent1: 40th
countries: Finland, France, USA
approach: Ghandrung->Chomrung->Machhapuchhare BC
bcdate: 2002-04-12
smtdate: 2002-05-16
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2002-05-21
othersmts: Climbed Roc Noir (ROCN-021-01)
agency: Sea to Summit Trekking/Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(12/04,4000m),C1(16/04,4250m),C2(23/04,6200m),C3(05/05,7100m),C4(14/05,7300m),Biv(14/05,7500m),Biv(15/05,7850m),Smt(16/05)

routememo:
  BC underneath rock face south of Tent Peak
  C1 north of Tent Peak
  C2 just north and 500m away from top of Fluted Peak
  C3 on snow face just before top of Glacier Dome
  C4 at 500m on ridge
  C5 in gully between East and Middle Annapurna tops.

  From C3 did not cross big crevasse before Glacier Dome top. 6 May all down to BC. Returned to C3 on 13 May, C4 14 May. C4 for Ed and Veikka at 7300m and Alberto and Jean-Christophe on to 7500m after topping Roc Noir, from where there was 75 degree, 300m slope to Annapurna I. Ed and Veikka didn't like avalanche risks and problem of returning same route. Alberto and Jean-Christophe were ahead and causing avalanching which in turn caused Ed and Veikka to stop at 7300m and never went beyond there and down to BC and their climb over. 15 May Alberto and Jean-Christophe climbed along North Face 100-200m before summit ridge (did not get to East Summit). Ridge was dry rotten rock, but on North Face was snow. 16 May traversed North Face and down gully on normal route from north side and finally to main summit 9:45 am. Climbed roped together after. Returned by same line and biv 7400m to bottom of summit ridge. 17 May to C3 and 18 May to BC. Decision to press on for summit from C4 a matter of risk one wants to take.


  Lafaille - 24 May 

  Reached C3 on Glacier Dome by route behind Fluted Peak (Singu Chuli) to 100-200m below Glacier Dome's summit where put C3. Then followed ridge westwards. From C3 onwards Alberto and Jean-Christophe moved alpine-style (and did use Viestur's C4. On 14 May started from C3 6:00 am on ridge that was very much up and down with some parts steep and technical to start of climb of Roc Noir. Here took 3 hours to climb 250-300m very steep (55-60 degrees) with rock band and bad powder snow. Got to summit of Roc Noir about 11:00 am. From Roc Noir summit only 2 choices: to retreat or to go west on ridge; not possible to descend North or South Face as both very steep and long distance down (on South side, and on North side, many seracs and cornices). From Roc Noir, traversed North Face 20-100m below ridge depending on snow conditions. Sometimes could walk with stick, sometimes very snow face and here very technical and used rope. Biv about 4:00 pm 7450-7560m (same altitude as all this part of traverse). 15 May started at 6:00 am and now came on to ridge for about 1 km and then again onto North Face (all North Face snow very good whereas ridge became only rock). At about 7700m crossed onto face and again technical ice and snow climbing. Biv 7950m at top of couloir below East Summit at about 3:00 pm (took time to chop out place to biv). Lafaille fixed 100m of rope above biv for next day's climb. 16 May route steep rock face and very difficult technically and problem to find route. 40m below East Summit continued westwards, behind on North Face crossed Middle Summit along face. Joined normal route at about 7800m at couloir and then up couloir to top. At 10:00 am arrived at summit; 10:30 am resumed traverse but climbed a different line on face because very tired and snow conditions not so good. Middle afternoom returned to biv tent, stayed 1 hour then moved to lower altitude at biv at small plateau 7400m at 6:30 pm very tired and no food and bitter gas and had only milk tea and biscuits. 17 May left biv 6:00-6:30 am still very tired but found cache at biv of 14 May of food, gas and so stayed 2 hours. Same day back to Roc Noir and C3 and returned to C3 4:00 pm with tent and food and could be more relaxed. 18 May arrived BC at end of morning. No accidents or frostbite. "Very happy" about success and glad to get to top after bad experience in 1992 on South Face and two other unsuccessful attempts.


expid: ANN402101
peakid: ANN4
year: 2002
route1: N Face-NW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Matthew Rolfe
sponsor: Australian Annapurna IV Expedition
bcdate: 2002-03-19
smtdate: 2002-03-30
termdate: 2002-05-04
termnote: Abandoned at 5470m due to avalanching
campsites: BC(19/03,4800m),C1(29/03,5450m),xxx(30/03,5470m)
accidents: Nothing except slight frostnips by Jamison and Rolfe
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
routememo:
  BC at 2 km from base of face
  C1 little over half way up face
  C2 never slept in
  High point just above C1 site.

  Porters from KTM quit at 3800m through lack of experience; 8 stayed with team who had experience (shuttled gear to BC). Couldn't take normal route above BC because of frequent avalanching. Had to go straight up through icefall, where fixed 400m of rope. After 5 days of route making, entire rope wiped out by avalanche after return to BC and buried all equipment for C2 which was at 5300m. 5 days to dig out tents and food and stoves. 29th Rolfe reached C1. 29th 5:27 am huge avalanche hit BC and took out kitchen and tents (but got them back). 30th Rolfe carried load to C1 intending to stay there with Patrikios, but heavy snow that afternoon and down to BC. Snowed all day 1st and 2nd May with 2-3 feet snow at BC. 3rd Jamison and Patrikios to C1 and had to dig it out from snow and took it down. Now decided to leave mountain.  

  With Rolfe was Parsu Ram Rai (aka Tshering) during climb. Unusually cold (at night -25 at BC on about 31 March). Team's reduced by 5th member, Robert Fox, leaving before arrivng at BC and Wright's reluctance to go very far (he went up from BC only twice, got across glacier to bottom of fixed ropes at 5050m and retreated, frightened).


expid: ARNK02201
peakid: ARNK
year: 2002
route1: W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Tamotsu Ohnishi
sponsor: Osaka Alpine Club West Bengal Nepal Expedition 2002 Summer
ascent1: 1st
countries: Nepal
approach: N to Dhagarjung->NW to Sangda->Kiraphalek Khola->Nalkam Khola
bcdate: 2002-07-08
smtdate: 2002-07-10
smttime: 1050
termdate: 2002-07-11
othersmts: Attempted Saribung (SARI-022-01)
campsites: BC(08/07,5562m),Smt(10/07)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Expedition flew KTM-Pokhara-Jomsom and arrived Jomsom 28 June. They then split into two teams, one to climb Arniko Chuli and the other for Saribung.

  Arniko team, consisting of Ohnishi, Ang Phurba Sherpa and his wife, Mrs Dikki Sherpa, left Jomsom on their approach march on 3 July.

  Approach: north to Dhagarjung, northwest to Sangda, Kiraphalek Khola, Nalkham Khola to base camp at north end of Khola. Arrived base camp 8 July.

  Climb: From base camp (5562m, just south of Tibetan border), on 9 July went up to Chanagor Bhajang (Pass) at 5665m on the border and returned to base. On 10 July the three left base at 8:55 am, reached the pass at 9:30 am, left the pass at 9:45 am and climbed the West Ridge, which runs up the border, to the summit, which they reached between 10:50 and 12:00 am, and back to base camp at 12:55 pm. Their rock ridge presented no technical difficulties; it was an "easy walk."

  Trek away from base camp: left base camp on 11 July for Saribung base camp. Trekked down Nalkham Khola to Ghami Khola, south-southeast along Ghami Khola to Ghami village, northeast to Chharang village, east to Yara village and Luri Gompa, south southeast to Ghuma Thati, and finally southeast to Saribung base camp. Arrived at Saribung base on 17 July. 

  Saribung team consisted of Okuda and Mrs Kobayashi as climbers with Tul Bahadur Tamang accompanying them to base camp but to do no climbing. They left Jomsom on 29 June.

  Approach march:  north and east via Chuksang (Chhusang), Tange and Yara villages, then southeast via Luri Gompa, Guma Thati to Nakkali Damodar Kunda base camp at 5375m north-northeast of the mountain. Arrived at base camp on 12 July.

  Climb: on 14 July moved to high camp at 5700m south of base. On 17th July Okuda and Mrs Kobayashi attempted to climb Saribung and went up northwest snow slope; reached col at 6068m (according to GPS - Nepalese government's map gives altitude as 6042m), from where their route ascended North Ridge. But now they were in a white-out, so instead of climbing further, they turned around and retreated all the way to base camp the same day. Saribung climb was now abandoned.

  Trek away from base camp: 18 July this team plus Arniko Chuli team left base camp on 18 July to returned to Jomsom. Trekked via Yara, Tange, Chuksang (Chhusang). Reached Jomsom 22 July.

  Note: Official government altitudes for the two mountains are 6039m for Arniko Chuli and 6346m for Saribung. Ohnishi's GPS measurements gave altitudes of 6034m and 6328m, respectively.

  Saribung attempt by Mrs Kobayashi and Okuda July 17 to Col at 6068m then white-out and descended. Were on northwest slope. From Col would have ascended North Ridge. Tul Bahadur Tamang went with them to BC but did no climbing.


expid: BARU02101
peakid: BARU
year: 2002
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Dave Walsh
sponsor: Jagged Globe Baruntse Expedition 2002
countries: Ecuador, Italy, Mexico
approach: Lukla->Tangnag->Mera La->BTC
bcdate: 2002-04-29
smtdate: 2002-05-02
termdate: 2002-05-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to excessive snow, lack of time, limited supplies
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(29/04,5300m),C1(01/05,5800m),C2(02/05,6300m),xxx(02/05,6300m)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  C2 at foot of SE Ridge.

  Chapman, Ferre-D'Amare, Pancott, Walsh and Mrs. Walsh climbed Island Peak.

  The original plan was to reach Baruntse BC via Tumlingtar. But had to change it due to Maoist problem in that area. The Mera La route took a long time. Therefore, the expedition had a short climbing duration. The team returned to KTM from Lukla on May 21 and to leave on 24th.

  Sherpas: 
  L. P. Sherpa, Samduk Sherpa, Pema Sherpa (same details of Jagged Globe Expedition to Baruntse in 2000 and 2001). Two others, Pemba Sherpa and Pasang Nurbu Sherpa, are not climbing Sherpas.


expid: BARU02102
peakid: BARU
year: 2002
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Chris Mann
sponsor: British Independent Baruntse Expedition
countries: France, Ireland
approach: Mera La->West Col
bcdate: 2002-04-17
smtdate: 2002-04-25
termdate: 2002-04-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6750m due to route problem
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak (14 April)
campsites: BC(17/04,5450m),C1(20/04,6100m),C2(24/04,6400m),xxx(25/04,6750m)
accidents: Allan amoebic dysentery below Mera Peak
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC near lake southwest of West Col
  C1 just over top of West Col
  C2 at bottom of SE Ridge
  High point at 6750m at SE Ridge.

  25 April summit bid from C2 by Dinsdale, Mann, Muir, Trommsdorff and Pemba Gyalzen Sherpa at 4:00 am (wanted to leave earlier but also did not want to get to technical ground starting at 6500m before could use it in daylight). An hour across glacier to actual start of ridge in one foot fresh snow and then up ridge till 8:00 am where ridge was crossed by wide crevasse barrier. To overcome this barrier would have had to go over to steep South Face, where slab avalanche danger too great. Crevasse 30 feet wide with overhanging lip; so with risk too great, decide to abandon climb. Same day down to BC, clearing camps on descent.

  Fixed 170m to West Col and start of technical part on mountain fixed 30m.


expid: BARU02103
peakid: BARU
year: 2002
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Terry Tremble
sponsor: Australian 2002 Baruntse Expedition
bcdate: 2002-04-18
smtdate: 2002-05-05
termdate: 2002-05-10
termnote: Abandoned at 7050m due to dangerous snow conditions
campsites: BC(18/04,5000m),ABC(24/04,5500m),C1(01/05,5900m),C2(02/05,6000m),C3(03/05,6500m),xxx(05/05,7050m)
accidents: Tichner and Pinney altitude sickness
agency: Gates Guiding & Trekking
routememo:
  BC  Barun Glacier 
  ABC on moraine of Glacier east northeast of West Col
  C1  on west side of rockband northeast of West Col
  C2  west of rock band
  C3  at SSW of point 6730m
  High point at cleft in summit ridge.

  Sherpa went up glacier below Sherpani Col and did not climb this way because of rock band below Col. So went northwest on Baruntse Glacier to West Col. Tichner got only 5500m on 26 April because of altitude sickness; Pinney also altitude sickness and turned back 6000m. Tichner left BC end of April, but Pinney waited in BC for other members to return. Daniels, Duffy and Tremble to South Summit on 5 May. At 7050m stopped by cleft in summit ridge with cornices and unstable snow, so turned back because route above unsafe now. Down to C3. Snowfall continued next day and went down to BC same day, 6 May, and climb finished.


expid: CHOY02101
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Minoru Otsuki
sponsor: DAV Wiesbaden Cho Oyu Expedition 2002
ascent1: 443
countries: Germany
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2002-04-15
smtdate: 2002-05-14
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2002-05-17
campsites: BC(15/04,4800m),ABC(19/04,5700m),C1(20/04,6450m),C2(27/04,7100m),C3(13/05,7500m),Smt(14/05)
agency: None
routememo:
  ABC at usual site
  C1 same
  C2 same
  C3 below Yellow Band.

  May 14 started from C3 at 03:00 Nepal time. Otsuki reached summit at 12:30 and Lakatos at 12:45 and stayed about 40 minutes. Returned to C3 at 16:00 hours. Both the summiters saw Everest and Lhotse. Weather was good, sunny and mild wind. The expedition team arrived KTM on May 19th and will leave on 23rd.


expid: CHOY02102
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: Russia
leaders: Andrei Volkov
sponsor: Cho Oyu 2002
ascent1: 436
bcdate: 2002-04-13
smtdate: 2002-05-05
smttime: 1045
termdate: 2002-05-09
campsites: BC(13/04,5300m),ABC(15/04,5700m),C1(18/04,6400m),C2(22/04,7100m),Smt(05/05)
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC at CBC
  C1 at usual place
  C2 at usual place.

  May 05 Doucharine and Volkov left C2 at 02:30 hrs (Chinese Time); summit at 13:00 hours (10:45 NST), spent about 45 minutes, returned to C2 at 17:00 hours. Nice weather. Volkov said he saw both Nepal and Tibet side clearly. Everest could not be seen due to clouds on that side. On that day other expeditions reaching summit were one Korean with Sherpa, Spanish before him. The storm on 25 Apr blew away their tent at C2 and lost everything in it except three ice axes pegged to tent. Most of the climbing gear was borrowed from other expeditions. The gloves used by Volkov were borrowed from G. Goeschl (Amical-Austrian), who too had borrowed them from the Swiss climber Rupert (these gloves summited three times). The expedition team arrived KTM on 11 May and plan to leave on 14.


expid: CHOY02103
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: Singapore
leaders: David Lim
sponsor: Ascent Cho Oyu
bcdate: 2002-05-15
smtdate: 2002-05-19
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to weariness (especially leg trouble) and lack of time
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak and Xixabangma
campsites: BC(15/05),ABC(13/05,5600m),C1(15/05,6300m),C2(17/05,7100m),C3(18/05,7400m),xxx(19/05,7900m)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  High point at 7900m at face where snow stops and rock to top.

  Arrived at Cho Oyu after good acclimatization on Mera and Xixabangma. Direct route above C3 to top. Route was difficult for at least to 7800m, steep rock on this more direct. Lot of unconsolidated snow on loose rock. 19 May started from C3 4:00 am NST for top but at 10:00 am turned back becasue very tired. Had short falls coming down because of weariness, down to C2 to sleep. 20th down to ABC and now no more time to recover and try again. Very strong wind on 20th made descent a real battle. Had planned to make only one summit bid and by 19th his disabled knee from earlier accident was giving him trouble and this was the largest single cause of giving up.


expid: CHOY02104
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Yuichiro Miura
sponsor: Miura Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 438,441
bcdate: 2002-04-15
smtdate: 2002-05-09
smttime: 0930
othersmts: Climbed Parchamo to acclimatize (top 1 Apr by 2 Miuras and others 20m below top)
campsites: BC(15/04),ABC(17/04,5700m),C1(28/04,6300m),C2(07/05,7000m),C3(08/05,7500m),Smt(09-10/05)
agency: Rolwaling Trek
routememo:
  ABC as same as others,

  Climbed to C1 on 27th April to acclimatize, others down to ABC after having reached near to C2 site. Down to ABC on 27th. 26th April fierce wind blew down 15 tents at C2. On 28th set up intermediate camps at 5900m. About a week's rest at ABC and on 6 May up to C1, to C2 on 7 May, 8th to C3. 9 May from C2 by Gota and Yuichiro Miura and 4 Sherpas at 3:30 am (NST) and on top 9:30 am by Miuras and Sherpas and down to C2 to sleep sleep.

  2nd summit team: Kato, Murata, Higashi and 3 Sherpas. Left C3 10 May at 3:00 am, on top 9:45 am and slept C2. 

  Oxygen used only by Japanese, all members for sleeping in C2 and C3 and climbing C2 to C3 and C3 to top and down to C2. Fixed rope 100m going to 8000m altitude; elsewhere used rope in place. 9 May saw Everest, et al (no clouds); 10 May cloudy so saw nothing beyond 6-7m, but saw on top some flags.

achievment:
  Miura thinks he is oldest summiter of any 8000er; 2 Miuras first Japanese father and son atop any 8000er together


expid: CHOY02105
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Jamie McGuinness
sponsor: Project Himalaya Cho Oyu 2002
ascent1: 442
countries: Australia, UK
bcdate: 2002-04-22
smtdate: 2002-05-14
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2002-05-18
campsites: BC(22/04),ABC(26/04,5700m),C1(01/05,6400m),C2(04/05,7150m),C3(13/05,7500m),Smt(14/05)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  Jamie and David left C3 for top at 5:30 am, summited noon and David slept in C3 with Tshering while Jamie down to C2. Saw Everest and Lhotse. Tshering had gone up from C2 in his own climb and on top in early afternoon. Nearly got blown off the mountain on way to C3 on 12 May, so down to C2 and up next day in no wind. Japanese 1st on top, McGuinness 2nd, German woman with Japanese and Sharp next.

  Bragg left expedition 4 May (very slow, very tired, no motivation). 

  Sherpa summiter: Tshering Palden Bhote, 39, Thami, Ev 23/5/01

  Canadians are independent team who arrived much later than the others and will return to KTM on 30 May (Baldo speaks excellent English).


expid: CHOY02106
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: S Korea
leaders: Baek Seung-Gyu
sponsor: Korea Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 431,433,434
bcdate: 2002-04-06
smtdate: 2002-05-03
smttime: 1025
termdate: 2002-05-07
campsites: BC(06/04,4900m),ABC(09/04,5700m),C1(13/04,6500m),C2(19/04,7200m),C3(25/04,7500m),Smt(03-05/05)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  ABC at all camps at same locations as other teams.

  1st summit bid 26 April by Kang and Jung with 2 Sherpas, but winds too strong to go above C3 so down to C2, where also wind so strong could leave that camp and 27th down to ABC.

  2nd May Chung with 2 Sherpas and go to top 3 May with 2 Austrians. Took 1-1/2 hours or more from arrival at summit plateau to summit. Could see no other mountains in complete cloud cover. Left C3 4:30 am and on top at 12:40 CST (10:25 NST) and down to C2 at 6:00 pm. Sherpas were Pem Tenji and Pasang.

  Baek and Tirtha Tamang (Cho Oyu X2, etc) on C3 3 May and to top 4 May leaving C3 7:00 am, saw Everest, etc. [reached top 2:16 CST, 12:01 NST].

  Kang and Nima Dawa (Everest 2000) left C3 5:00 am 5 May, on top 11:20 am CST (9:05 NST) and returned to C3 4:00 pm and C2 6:00 pm. Kang down SE Face 100m to see down that face, where had not gotten to top in 2001, and back to top, where Nima Dawa arrived 40 mins after Kang first got there; saw Everest twice from summit in breaks in clouds.


expid: CHOY02107
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Miroslav Caban
sponsor: Independent team to Cho Oyu
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2002-04-17
smtdate: 2002-05-02
termdate: 2002-05-05
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to bad weather (windy and very cold)
othersmts: Climbed Everest (EVER-021-06)
campsites: BC(17/04,5000m),ABC(18/04,5400m),C1(19/04,6400m),C2(24/04,7200m),xxx(02/05,7800m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
primid: EVER02106
routememo:
  May 2 started from C2 at 04:00 hours NST, reached 7800m at 12:00 hours, returned to C2 at 15:00 hours. They did not wait for better weather to climb the mountain as they used the time for acclimatization for Everest attempt.

  Shared a permit with Marco Chiantore who only went to Everest.


expid: CHOY02108
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: Austria
leaders: Rainer Wolfgang Goeschl
sponsor: Independent team on Amical Cho Oyu permit
ascent1: 430
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2002-04-08
smtdate: 2002-05-03
smttime: 0905
campsites: BC(08/04,4900m),ABC(11/04,5700m),C1(17/04,6400m),C2(02/05,7100m),Smt(03/05)
achievment: Two Goeschl brothers together on summit
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Amical pmt)
routememo:
  May 3 started both from C2 at 00:45 hours, summitted at 09:05 hours and stayed about 10 minutes. It was stormy, foggy and very cold. Returned to C2 at 12:20 hours. Visibility at summit was about 150m. Had to spend night at C2 due to snowfall. Gerfried Goeschl found a blue ice axe on the summit which he carried with him. He said the axe has Swiss mark. The team lost most of the climbing gears kept at C2 due to storm on 22/23 April. Both the brothers said they have borrowed climbing gear from other expeditions. The gloves were given by Haider (German) which he had given to a Russian climber. 

  The team arrived to KTM on May 9 and plans to leave on 13th. Rainer Goeschl (father of the two) said it was very cold and stayed at BC.


expid: CHOY02109
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Jochen Haase
sponsor: Amical Alpin Cho Oyu Expedition 2002
countries: Austria, Netherlands
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2002-04-08
smtdate: 2002-05-05
termdate: 2002-05-10
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to bad weather and lack of time
campsites: BC(08/04,4900m),ABC(11/04,5700m),C1(16/04,6400),C2(04/05,7100m),C3(05/05,7450m),xxx(05-06/05,8100m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  CBC at CBC site
  ABC at usual campsite
  C1  at usual campsite
  C2  at usual campsite
  C3  at usual campsite.

  May 05: Fessler and Haase left C2 01:00 hours (Nepal time). Had to stay at C2 about 3 hours due to storm. Reached on plateau about 15:00 hours, but visibility was low, so returned to C3 at 18:00 hours.

  May 06: Thanner and Sherpa started 05:00 hours reached up to 8100m then started snowfall. They could not see anything, so then returned to C3. Kayatz reached up to 7700m. Stangl reached up to 7900m.

  The expedition lost 6 tents pitched at C2 due to strong storm on 25th. Tents contained equipments, oxygen supplies.

  Miss Kaufmann left ABC on April 24 due to thrombosis; arrived KTM on 28, probably left Nepal on 30th.

  Fiala and Hamm left expedition on May 02; arrived KTM on 3rd and left Nepal on 4th; no motivation.

  Fessler, Michalik, Schijlen, Miss Vent left ABC on May 8, stayed at CBC; arrived KTM with rest of the members. They are to leave on May 13.


expid: CHOY02110
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Marco Sala
sponsor: Cho Oyu Italian Expedition
ascent1: 444
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2002-04-15
smtdate: 2002-05-14
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2002-05-17
campsites: BC(15/04,4800m),ABC(19/04,5700m),C1(22/04,6450m),C2(04/05,7100m),C3(13/05,7500m),Smt(14/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  ABC - usual site
  C1  - usual site
  C2  - above serac
  C3  - below Yellow Band.

  May 14: Started at 06:00 hours Nepal time. Marco reached summit at 13:00 hours. Renato reached summit at 13:40 hours. Spent about 40 minutes. Descended to C3 at 16:30 hours. Marco and Renato while descending met two Irish climbers approaching for summit. The weather was good, sunny and changing. Both the summiters saw Everest and Lhotse. The expedition arrived Kathmandu on May 18 and will leave the country on 21st.


expid: CHOY02111
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Walter Rinkes
sponsor: Bavarian Cho Oyu Expedition 2002
ascent1: 446
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2002-04-29
smtdate: 2002-05-16
smttime: 0845
termdate: 2002-05-26
campsites: BC(29/04,4900m),ABC(01/05,5190m),C1(08/05,6400m),C2(09/05,7100m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  May 15 started by all members and Sherpas at 23:15 hours Nepal time. Seidl and Pemba reached summit 08:45 hours, stayed about 20 min, back to C2 at 12:00 hours. Kaiser reached summit 09:45 hours, spent about 15/20 min, back to C2 at 13:00 hours. Moesl reached summit at 11:20 and Maier at 11:25 spent 20 and 15 min, respectively, then moved down together. Moesl reached C2 at 14:45 hours and Maier at 15:15 hours. Weather was very good. The members saw Everest, Lhotse and other mountains. 

  Leader Rinkes returned from C3 due to tiredness. Walter went up with Ang Phurba on 17th to C1, on 18th to C2, 19th to C3, storm started, weather was bad, so Phurba returned to ABC on 21st and Rinkes stayed on in Dutch tent at C3 [at 7500m]. He returned to C1 on 24th. 

  The team returned to KTM on 28 and to leave on May 30.

  Ang Phurba: 5 times Cho Oyu summiter - no summit

  Source of above information: 
    Moesl did most of talking. Present also was Seidl. Rinkes went out 
    saying to come back after a while, but did not.


expid: CHOY02115
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: Austria
leaders: Gerhard Osterbauer
sponsor: Independent team on Amical Cho Oyu permit
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2002-04-08
smtdate: 2002-04-18
termdate: 2002-05-01
termnote: Abandoned at 7130m due to bad weather conditions
campsites: BC(08/04,4900m),ABC(11/04,5700m),C1(17/04,6400m),C2(7130m),xxx(18,25/04,7130m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking (Amical pmt)
routememo:
  BC at common BC site
  C1 20m below a ridge
  C2 above some crevasses
  High point at C2 site.

  The last second attempt by both members about April 25 reached up to C2. Weather was bad in the second half of April. Then the members had to leave.

  Osterbauer requests list of all ascents of Cho Oyu.


  Email to Mr. Jeevan Shrestha - June 24, 2002

  We reached Chinese basecamp on the 8th of April after spending nights in Zangmu, Nyalam (2 nights) and Tingri.

  Basecamp was reached 3 days later on the 11th after spending two nights in the Chinese basecamp and one night on the way.

  17th to 18th of April we spent our first night in C1 and on the 18th we reached C2 for the first time, building up one tent and climbed down to C1, where we spend the night again (weather conditions were rather poor that night...).

  The next days it was very stormy and the Koreans in camp two said that most of the tents there were blown away by the wind. So from that moment on, we were not sure of it, there was still our tent in C2 or not.

  Anyway, when the weather seemed to be better a few days later, we climbed to C1 again on the 24th and spent one more night there. As the weather report given by Mr Gabi from Austria was good we decided to climb to C2 the next day (25th) to try the summit the following night/day. But 5 hours after this weather report we found ourselves in C2 (our tent was still there) in real bad weather (storm, snowfall, sight approx. 20 meters). This was the reason why we decided not to spend the night in C2, but try to find our way back to C1 (which was not too easy!). It was obvious that the next day would be no "summit day". So we never "used" camp 2 for sleeping.

  Well, I think this should be all the information that you need, but if you still miss something, don't hesitate to contact me again.


expid: CHOY02116
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Rupert Heider
sponsor: Heider Cho Oyu 2002
ascent1: 429
bcdate: 2002-04-02
smtdate: 2002-04-24
termdate: 2002-04-27
campsites: BC(02/04),ABC(05/04,5700m),C1(09/04,6400m),C2(22/04,7100m),C3(23/04,7500m),Smt(24/04)
accidents: Nothing except Heider slightly frostbitten fingers (not warm gloves)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  21 April started summit push from ABC to C1 and to up in 3 successive days. Other teams were either unprepared to go up or were waiting for favorable weather forecast. C1 to C2 heavy snowfall and lot of snow above where no ropes available. Had gone to C1 in cooperation with Haase's team. Wasn't up without fixed ropes above C2, where technical complications would have required ropes. One terrible storm while Heider was there on 26 April and flattened tents at C2. "I was lucky without a doubt" with no acclimatization problem.

  Sherpas:
    Nanda Dorje, Khumjung, 30/12/66, Cho Oyu 5/98, 9/98, Everest 5/98
    Mingma Dorje (aka Mingma Sherpa), Khumjung, 12/21/67


expid: CHOY02117
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Fernando Garrido
sponsor: Aragon Adventure Cho Oyu Expedition 2002
ascent1: 437 w/Diaz
countries: France
bcdate: 2002-04-11
smtdate: 2002-05-05
smttime: 1800
termdate: 2002-05-09
campsites: BC(11/04,4800m),ABC(15/04,5600m),C1(23/04,6400m),C2(04/05,7100m),Smt(05/05)
accidents: Lima respiratory problem and left 30 April
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C2 (about 7200m is not correct).

  Lost 2 tents in C2 and some gear end of April in very strong winds. Left C2 for top at 1:00 am NST (were 4 Spanish policemen, Subias, Garrido, Boudes, Sanjuan and Jangmu Sherpa); by 5:30 am extremely wind and cold. At 2:00 or 3:00 am Boudes going too slowly and turned back and Jangmu with her. Garrido and Sanjuan (and 1 policeman Rivero) stopped at 5:30 am in empty tent (of 2 Spaniards and Argentinian) until 8:30 am expecting wind to stop at 8:30 am as had day before and that was correct. From C3 did not take shortcut direct route to top but usual zigzag line (next time he will take direct lines because time they took made them very late at top). Got to top 6:00 pm, last people to top that day. Garrido doesn't know why so slow (our policeman with them). Returned to C2 with no problem ("we were lucky but it is no good, too risky") at 3:00 am of 6 May. Down to ABC same day.


expid: CHOY02118
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Javier Subias Olivan
sponsor: Independent climber on Cho Oyu (on Garrido permit)
bcdate: 2002-04-11
smtdate: 2002-05-05
termdate: 2002-05-09
termnote: Adandoned at 8000m due to altitude problems
campsites: BC(11/04,4800m),ABC(15/04,5600m),C1(19/04,6400m),C2(04/05,7100m),xxx(05/05,8000m)
accidents: Serious blood bleeding
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  ABC same as Garrido's sites.

  Left C2 at 12:30 pm 4/5 May for top with Ramos and Aguero of other expedition. Went up direct shortcut to top without rest. Near 8000m at 9:00 am, stayed there 1 hour because it was very cold. There Subias had blood coming from mouth and rectum because very weak, tried to continue up, but could not (and Aguero down with him) and took long time to return to C2. Arrived at C2 at 2:00-3:00 pm. Down to ABC with help from police and arrived ABC next day in afternoon. Doctor put him on intravenous drip, but not sure of course, maybe strong, but said very serious; now weak but blood not emerging anymore.

  Javier Subias was semi-independent of Garrido's Spanish-French expedition.


expid: CHOY02119
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Martin Ramos
sponsor: Spanish-Argentinean team to Cho Oyu
ascent1: 435
countries: Argentina
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2002-04-19
smtdate: 2002-05-05
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2002-05-16
campsites: BC(19/04,4900m),ABC(21/04,5600m),C1(25/04,6350m),C2(03/05,7100m),C3(04/05,7500m),Smt(05/05)
accidents: Ramos lower hip may be frostbitten from constant cough
agency: Chomolungma Pilgrimage
routememo:
  C3 occupied by Bracali only.

  Bracali left C3 for top 4:00 am NST with Russians from C3. Ramos and Aguero had left C2 at 1:30 am, in C3 4:00 am and all go on up together (1 Argentinean, 3 Russians and 2 Spaniards) plus 1 member of Garrido's team (Javier who did not reach top). Aguero and Javier turned back about 8000m because cold while Ramos and Bracoli on to top at 10:30 am (Ramos) and 11:00-11:10 am (Bracoli) after Ramos going down. Ramos saw Everest and Lhotse briefly: Bracoli told Ramos he took photo of Everest and he saw ski pole Ramos left there. 1st on top that day were 1 Korean and 1 Sherpa; Ramos down to C1 that night whle Bracali stopped for night at C3.


expid: CHOY02120
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Antonio Campos
sponsor: Guardia Civil Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 437 w/Garrido
bcdate: 2002-04-11
smtdate: 2002-05-05
smttime: 1800
termdate: 2002-05-09
campsites: BC(11/04,4800m),ABC(15/04,5600m),C1(23/04,6400m),C2(04/05,7100m),Smt(05/05)
accidents: Escalano serious pulmonary edema and used oxygen in ABC when sick (left ABC 21 Apr)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Independent of Garrido's team and coincidental then made camps same days as Garrido. 4 members from C2 for top: Casado, Caso, Rivero and Rodriguez at 1:30 am; in C3 at 7600m 3 turned back because too cold, so only Rivero rested in C3 as Garrido did and then with Garrido and Sanjuan went to top and down to C2.

  2 members left them, early, on 21 April: Escolano because of serious pulmonary edema and Giraddo to escort Escolano to Spain.

  Bernabe and Campos slept in C1 but never went higher. Arroya and Fernandez climbed to only 6800m.


expid: CHOY02121
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Helmut Kuzbida
sponsor: R.O.N.O. Team International Cho Oyu Expedition 2002
ascent1: 432
countries: Austria, Switzerland
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2002-04-15
smtdate: 2002-05-04
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2002-05-08
campsites: BC(15/04,4800m),ABC(17/04,5650m),C1(20/04,6300m),C2(22/04,7100m),C3(04/05,7800m),Smt(004/05)
accidents: Schlattinger altitude sickness in lung (HAPE)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Gschwendtner, Schlattinger and Volken started from C2 at 0:30 hours. Reached summit at 14:00 hours and stayed half an hour. Returned to C2 at 17:30 hours NST. 

  Hindel and Kuzbida tried on May 5. Started from C2 at 02:00 hours. Reached below yellow band. Weather became cold and storm started. Then both of them went down to C2. The expedition lost two tents which contained oxygen, equipment, etc. due to storm on April 23. The expedition returned to KTM on 9th and will leave on 12th.


  Email by Helmut Kuzbida:

  Kilian Volken reached the summit at 13:30. 
  Peter Gschwendtner followed at 13:45.

  Both of them waited for Rainer Schlattinger who reached the top at 15:00. He suffered of HAPE and they took him down slowly. I met all of them at C3 at about 16:30-17:00.

  When they had reached the summit platform they walked about 1-1/5 hours further on till they came to the highest point, where they found some prayer flags! About 50 meters ahead they left on a small hill the flags from Switzerland and the Swiss Kanton "Wallis".

  The sight was not good. They could not see Everest because it was cloudy. They only had a view to northwest and northeast but not southeast.


expid: CHOY02122
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: Canada
leaders: Allain Baldo
sponsor: Independent team to Cho Oyu (McGuiness permit)
bcdate: 2002-05-04
smtdate: 2002-05-15
termdate: 2002-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to Baldo's chronic altitude sickness
campsites: BC(04/05),ABC(08/05,5700m),C1(13/05,6400m),xxx(15/05,6900m)
accidents: Baldo incipient altitude sickness
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  High point above snowfall.

  15 May carried to C2 at 6900m but didn't sleep there (left gear there). Both members slept in C1 but Baldo altitude sickness and down to ABC on 16th to rest. 18th to C1 for 3 nights, every day put on packs and went up short distance, but Baldo again couldn't breathe properly, couldn't sleep (Cheyne-Stokes breathing). Night of 20 May big wind tore other team's tent (not Canadian tent). 21 May back to ABC and climb finished.


expid: CHOY02123
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Alessandra Canestri
sponsor: Marco-Alessandra Cho Oyu Expedition 2002
ascent1: 447
bcdate: 2002-04-15
smtdate: 2002-05-19
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2002-05-23
campsites: BC(15/04,4800m),ABC(19/04,5700m),C1(25/04,6450m),C2(01/05,7100m),C3(08/05,7500m),Smt(19/05)
achievment: 1st woman from Trieste city
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  May 19: Both members started from C3 at 05:30 hours (NST). Summit at 14:00 hours and stayed half an hour. Back to C3 at 17:30 hours. Weather was good but very cold and windy. Could not see Everest as it was foggy. They saw prayer flags and scarves two places on the summit. The team came to KTM on 24 and leaves on May 28.


expid: CHOY02124
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Vicente Lillo
sponsor: Independent climber
bcdate: 2002-04-17
smtdate: 2002-04-26
termdate: 2002-05-10
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(17/04),ABC(19/04,4900m),C1(23/04,5400m),C2(26/04,6200m),xxx(26/04,01/05,6200m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C2 never slept in
  High point at C2 site.

  Vicente to C1 site 23 April but weather bad and slept there 3 nights. Arrived at C2 site at 6200m but strong wind blew away 2 tents, so he and Nima Sherpa down to C1 to sleep. 27 April ABC. Again to C2 on 1 May, but again did not sleep there because again strong wind and slept in C1 and 2 May ABC. 3 May to C1 for 2 nights but once more wind drove him to ABC and climb finished. By now very tired - in fact had problem of lack of strength getting to C2 site and maybe not well acclimatized.


expid: CHOY02125
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: Australia
leaders: Mark Kosmider
sponsor: Independent climber
bcdate: 2002-04-17
smtdate: 2002-04-20
termdate: 2002-04-22
termnote: Abandoned at 5200m due to extremely bad cough (maybe altitude sickness)
campsites: BC(17/04),ABC(19/04,4900m),xxx(20/04,5200m)
accidents: Incipient altitude sickness
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  ABC with Lillo
  High point 200m below C1.

  Returned to KTM on 24 April and left Nepal 27 April, trekking agent says.


expid: CHOY02126
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Rene de Bos, Reinier Zuidhoff
sponsor: Dutch Snow Leopard Adventures Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 2002-04-25
smtdate: 2002-05-19
termdate: 2002-05-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to bad weather and no motivation
accidents: Stam pulmonary edema (left team 10 May and returned to BC 18 May); Chhong Rinzee collapsed dead
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(25/04),ABC(27/04,5700m),C1(02/05,6400m),C1A(08/05,6750m),C2(12/05,7100m),C3(13/05,7500m),xxx(19/05,7700m)

routememo:
  ABC highest ABC
  High point at yellow band.

  13 May, when 3 who reached highest point, started up from C3 in clear weather but a little wind but by the time they had reached 7700m, clouds coming in and wind got stronger, decided to go down and slept in C1. De Bos slept in C3 nights of 23 and 24 for summit bid, but weather (very cold wind) prevented going higher. 2 tents had been completely damaged and 3rd collapsed, so down 25 May to C1A to sleep and climbing finished. Just to get down from C1 to ABC took 6-1/2 hours from exhaustion. Other members simply did not want to climb any more.


  Sherpa death: Chhong Rinzee, Beding, Cho Oyu X4. 

  In ABC 27 April and turned back on 28th to BC to get more supplies. 30 April up towards ABC and about 6 hours above BC and 2 hours below ABC, 2 Sherpas and some Tibetans found him sitting, slumped forward, probably dead already; cause unknown (Russell Brice's Sherpas told him Chhong Rinzee was drunk). 


expid: CHOY02112
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Richard Dougan
sponsor: The Northern Ireland Cho Oyu Expedition 2002
ascent1: 445
countries: Ireland
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2002-04-12
smtdate: 2002-05-14
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2002-05-18
accidents: Cinnamond fell into crevasse; Kelly got severe diarrhea and toothache
achievment: Dougan said he is first to summit
agency: Nomad Expeditions
campsites:
  BC(12/04,5400m),IntC(13/04,5600m),ABC(14/04,5800m),C1(17/04,6400m),C2(24/04,7000m),C3(13/05,7400m),Smt(14/05)

routememo:
  May 14: Dougan and Murphy started from C2 at 03:00 hours Chinese time. They reached C3 at 05:00 hours. Cinnamond who slept at C3 on 13th joined the two members. They continued. After about 100m, Cinnamond could not walk due to exhaustion. All three returned to C3 and left Cinnamond to rest and have something warm to drink. Dougan and Murphy continued. Both of them reached summit at 14:00 hours (NST) together. They spent about 40 minutes on summit. The two members were the last ones to reach the summit on that day. Before them 2 Italians, 2 Germans and members from New Zealand had summit on same day. Dougan and Murphy reached to C2 at about 20:00 hours. They had one hour rest at C3. 

  When Dougan and Murphy reached C3, Cinnamond already left C3. Upon reaching C2 Dougan contacted other expedition to know about Cinnamond, but nobody saw him there. On 15th both came down to C1 and also to search for Cinnamond. On 16th Dougan contacted ABC to see if Cinnamond is in CBC. Same time both members went up to first icefall and had to return due to bad weather. At about 13:00 hours Dougan assumed that Cinnamond was dead. Both members went down to ABC in the morning and arranged search team for missing Cinnamond on 17th. Tshering Sherpa of Himalayan Explorer (expedition leader Jamie McGuinness from New Zealand) found the body of Cinnamond in a crevasse [at 6800m] hanging 3 meters from the surface and his rope was still attached to main rope. Jamie informed Dougan that the body will be brought to Zangmu on 24th.

  Summit day weather: It was good, sunny, mild wind. Visibility was good but cold. Dougan saw the summit of the Everest briefly. Both members saw ski-pole stick on the summit.

  The two members arrive KTM on May 19 and to leave on 22nd.

  Garbage: Dougan said that it was disgusting to see lots of waste food, gas cylinders in C3 area and many oxygen bottles above C4. He said those were mainly left by Korean expedition. He is of the opinion that expeditions must use suitable containers for human waste and dispose them properly.


expid: CHOY02113
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: New Zealand
leaders: James Milne
sponsor: Independent climber on Cho Oyu
bcdate: 2002-04-10
smtdate: 2002-04-23
termdate: 2002-05-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6715m due to very bad cough
campsites: BC(13/04,5000m),ABC(15/04,5700m),C1(18/04,6425m),xxx(23/04,6715m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Milne went up from ABC to C1 three times and on 25 April went as high as 6100m and down to C1 coughing and down to ABC and climb finished.

  Left Nepal 7 May says trekking agent.


  Milne: 

  Got to 6715m. On 23 April carry load for C2, but at this point saw long queue where all of them on narrow route, so dumped his load and went down to ABC to rest. Then bad weather period. Went up to 6715m to retrieve his gear but went no higher (did not mention cough). Returned to KTM 5 May.


expid: CHOY02114
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Simone Moro
sponsor: Italian Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 439
bcdate: 2002-04-17
smtdate: 2002-05-09
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2002-05-12
othersmts: Climbed Everest (EVER-021-10)
campsites: BC(17/04),ABC(19/04,5700m),C1(23/04,6400m),C2(08/05,7100m),Smt(09/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  From ABC to C2 on 8 May. 9 May 6:00 am, only 3 towards top and reached top: Nicolini and Mezzanotte at 1:30 pm, Moro after phone call in national radio and TV. All 3 saw Everest, etc and back to ABC at 7:30 pm same day. 

  Moschetti and Stefani made summit bid from C2; Stefani to 7500m, Moschetti at 8000m [7800m according to Moro web report]. Stefani tired and Moschetti stopped because so cloudy could not see how to proceed since fixed ropes ended here; slept in C2 and 12 May in ABC.

  Illness: 1 member Omar Oprandi never went above BC because of pulmonary edema and left expedition to go home 19 April; Sandro Vidi also developed pulmonary edema in C1 and left to go home about 2 May.

  Source of above information: Moro


  May 8: Mezzanotte, Moro and Nicolini started from ABC at 08:30 hours - C2 at 1300 hours. May 9 started at 06:30 hours. Summit at 13:30 hours by 2 members. Spent about 20 minutes. Returned to ABC at 20:00 hours. Moro reached to summit at 14:30 hours. For Mezzanottte and Nicolini from ABC to summit was 11-1/2 hours. Both of them are "Ski Alpine Champion - European" held on April 2002 in Sorce Chanelier in France. The expedition pitched 2 tents at C1 and 1 tent at C2 (May 1). 

  The acclimatization: members started from ABC one day, to C1 and C2, back to ABC for rest. Then to Tingri, rest one or two days. Again to ABC to C1. Nicolini had left a camel bag with tea inside at the summit.

  Curnis and Moro left ABC on 10th for Everest BC.
  Sandro Vidi left ABC on May 5 not feeling well; left Nepal on May 15th.

  Oprandi in Tingri on April 16. He might have left Nepal on 17th.

  Summit day: Nicolini and Mezzanotte saw Everests summit weather was good but windy.
   
  May 10: Moschetti reached up to 8100m, but had to return due to poor visibility.

  Source of above information: Mezzanotte, Nicolini and Stefani who speaks English.


expid: DHA102101
peakid: DHA1
year: 2002
route1: NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Robert Link
sponsor: Mountain Link Dhaulagiri Expedition
countries: Argentina, Greece
approach: Pokhara->Jomsom->Marpha->Yak Khola->Hidden Valley
bcdate: 2002-04-12
smtdate: 2002-05-08
termdate: 2002-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to lack of time, snow conditions, high wind
campsites: BC(12/04,4700m),C1(17/04,5300m),C2(18/04,5800m),C3(27/04,6550m),C4(06/05,7250m),xxx(08/05,7700m)
agency: Nomad Expeditions
routememo:
  BC at usual BC site for NE Ridge
  C3 high on the ridge
  C4 between 100-200 ft above the buttress.

  May 08: started from C4 at 05:00 hours and reached up to 7600m, then back to C4 at 18:00 hours (Heinrich, Lindaas, Link, Mondry, A Nickamin, D Nickamin, Olson and Rinehart). The reason for retreat was due to soft snow and difficult path.

  Final attempt: May 21 by Heinrich, Justman, Lindaas, Link, Mondry and Styllas.

  Members left early on May 16: Clark, A Nickamin, D Nickamin, Olson and Miss Rinehart by helicopter to KTM. Rest of the members arrive KTM on May 24 by helicopter and leave Nepal on May 28.

  Link planning for Makalu for 2003 or 2004.

  Names of Nepali climbers.

  1. Nawang Dorje Lama (2019-10-15)
     Dhading, Tipling-3, Bagmati Zone
     Cho Oyu summit in 1997 [?]
   
  2. Dawa Sherpa (19-5-1963)
     Chhulemu, Taksindu VDC-7, Solukhumbu
     Everest Summit 1999, 2000 both in Spring 
     (with Babu Tsheri's speed climbing)

  3. Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa (25-9-1972)
     Namche-9, Solukhumbu
     Everest from both sides 1999 and 2000 (speed climbing)

  4. Pasang Sherpa (2029-9-7)
     Sankhuwasabha District, Makalu-9, Koshi Zone
     Everest both sides: 2001 & ?

  5. Ngawang Jangbu Sherpa (2031-11-4)
     Namche-9, Solukhumbu


expid: EVER02101
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Tomiyasu Ishikawa
sponsor: Independent climber
ascent1: 437
bcdate: 2002-04-08
smtdate: 2002-05-17
smttime: 1145
campsites: BC(08/04),ABC(12/04,6400m),C1(19/04,7000m),C2(15/05,7800m),C3(16/05,8300m),Smt(17/05)
achievment: Oldest 'summiter' (Curnis oldest to 'climb' to top; Ishikawa 'carried' to top)
agency: Rolwaling Trek
routememo:
  C1 at North Col.

  Long elapse between C1 and C2 because strong winds and snowfall. 3 men left C3 for top at 4:00 am (Chinese time) and on top 2:00 pm (11:45 NST) and 6:00 pm and slept there. Used oxygen above 7500m for sleeping and climbing to top and down in ABC but not below ABC; used 5 bottles of 4 litres each. 2 Sherpas used oxygen only from C3 to top to C3 only. On summit Ishikawa "very happy" to be 2 times summiter; was not tired, wanted to go highest. Does not want to climb Everest again.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Nima Dorje, Beding, 10/5/55, Everest, etc
    Tshering Dorje, Beding, 25/10/74, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2, Manaslu


  Wilfried Studer, Austria team leader - 27 May 2002

  In his descent after summit Ishikawa was carried on the back of a Sherpa from C1 to ABC and ABC to BC with oxygen tube from bottle carried by a Sherpa (Studer saw this himself).


  Simone Moro, Italian leader - 30 May 2002

  Ishikawa's Sherpas told Moro that Ishikawa was carried to top for last 50 meters; was irrational at summit, told Sherpas to leave him there because he wanted to ski down.

  Moro claims his member, Mario Curnis, who is 26 days younger than Ishikawa, is the oldest person to "climb" to the summit.


  Russell Brice, NZ leader of International team - 3 June 2002

  When Ishikawa went up the ladder on the Second Step, one Sherpa ahead of him pulled him by a short rope while two Sherpas behind him moved his feet on to each rung.


  Tsutomo Miyazaki, deputy leader of Higuchi's Japanese team - 28 May 2002

  His expedition's second summit party (Mrs Takahashi and 2 Sherpas) left C3 at midnight of 17/18 May for top. They reached 8500m, but had to abandon bid for top because Ishikawa was "in big trouble" at 8700m and Sherpas had to carry oxygen up to him.


expid: EVER02102
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Sohei Higuchi
sponsor: KAC Qomolangma Expedition 2002
ascent1: 438
bcdate: 2002-04-12
smtdate: 2002-05-17
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2002-05-25
campsites: BC(12/04),ABC(15/04,6700m),C1(05/05,7000m),C2(15/05,7700m),C3(16/05,8320m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Rolwaling Trek
routememo:
  C1 at North Col.

  Summit party: Miyazaki, Mingma Tshering, Mrs Yoshida and Nawang Syatty left C3 2:00 am (NST). Yoshida and Syatty turned back at 8700m where Mrs Yoshida tired at 12:00 noon while Miyazaki and Mingma Tshering went to top 9:00 am (Mrs Yoshida going very slowly up towards summit). All in C3 to sleep. Oxygen used by 2 members from C1 up all the way, sleeping and climbing, to highest points, down to C2; 2 Sherpas sleeping in C3, up from C3 and sleeping again in C3.

  2nd summit party left C3: Mrs Takahashi, Gyalzen (Thami) and another Sherpa. Left C3 midnight May 17/18. Sherpas had to carry oxygen up to Japanese in big trouble (Ishikawa) at 8700m, so Takahashi and they only to 8500m after only 2 hours climb and team gave up. 

  3rd summit party only 1 to C2 on 20 May and too much wind to go higher and 21 May expedition decided to stop climb.

  Sherpa:
    Nawang Syakaya, Beding, Cho Oyu X2, 48 yrs old in 1993


expid: EVER02103
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Viachoslav Skripko, Borislav Dimitrov
sponsor: International Everest Expedition 2002
countries: Bulgaria, Germany, Mexico, USA, Yugoslavia
bcdate: 2002-04-13
smtdate: 2002-05-17
termnote: Abandoned at 8500m due to team had no strength left
campsites: BC(13/04),ABC(18/04,6400m),C1(03/05,7000m),C2(15/05,7800m),C3(16/05,8300m),xxx(17/05,8500m)
accidents: Loredo & 2 Sherpas pneumonia; Katsurov altitude sickness; Miletic death
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  High point at First Step.

  Miletic and Gheorghe Dijmarescu left ABC to go top 14 May while other members were resting in Shigatse. Zoran 15 May to C2 (only members to sleep in C2), 16 May C3 and starting towards top on 17th. Gheorghe got to top, Zoran was behind them and from 2nd Step Gheorghe saw Zoran on 1st Step. When Gheorghe returned to C3 found Zoran's backpack and sleeping bag not there, which meant Zoran had continued down below C3. Zoran's body found in Japan C2 tent on 21 May with his sleeping bag and crampons outside tent; on him were his boots and cooking pot on his head (he was sitting with head forward and down). Body found by Sherpa from big Japanese expedition. Cause of death entirely unknown. Body simply moved out of tent by this (Dimitrov's) expedition Sherpa on 23 May and left near it. 

  Rest of expedition returned to BC 14 May and from 16 to 20 May various members up to ABC. 22 May 4 members and 2 Sherpas to C1 (Katsarov turned back after 1 hour stop from ABC because altitude sickness). Dimitrov stayed in ABC for 2 nights. 24 May Sherpas in C2 reported tent destroyed by wind but cache of gear still there. Team wanted to use oxygen in ascent but stayed in C1 another night and Dimitrov up to C1 to find out what's going on. Met Loredo coming down from C1 and one Sherpa coming down (pneumonia). At C1 other Sherpa also sinks and gets pneumonia next day. So no Sherpa support for summit bid. 25 May Skripko down to ABC, 26th Carro down, and Pflugradt down to ABC 27th and climb finished.

  Russell Brice, Ev North leader - 3 June '02

  On 18 May, Brice's member Yamada and Sherpa with Yamada saw tracks in snow of someone having been sliding on his bottom, starting at about 8400m down the snowslope slanting slightly westward, past the camp at 8300m and past Mallory's body under the snow to about 8100m or 8000m. There they could see him stand up and fall down immediately. Dimitrov and Skripko made no effort to find him. 6 days later Japanese expedition led by Higuchi found him dead in their C2 tent.

  More information about final days of Miletic in Gheorghe Dijmarescu's report to Internet's EverestNews.com in Dijmarescu file.


expid: EVER02104
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Shinji Sato
sponsor: Sapporo Chuo Workers Alpine Club Qomolangma Expedition 2002
ascent1: 442,446
bcdate: 2002-04-16
smtdate: 2002-05-18
smttime: 0954
termdate: 2002-05-29
campsites: BC(16/04),ABC(24/04,6400m),C1(07/05,7050m),C2(16/05,7800m),C3(17/05,8300m),Smt(18,25/05)
accidents: Hommo & Yamagata pulmonary edema at ABC and left 23 May; Sonoe Sato bronchitis
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  C1 at North Col.

  18 May 1:30 am (NST) Nagami, Tul Bahadur Tamang and Lhakpa Chhiri started for top and on top 9:54 am and returned 4:30 pm to C3 to sleep; used oxygen sleeping in C1 by Nagami, in C2 and climbing and sleeping above C2 and return to C1 and slept ABC 19 May; Tul Bahadur and Lhakpa sleeping in C3, up to top and down to C3. 

  25th May summit team of Shingi Sato, Noguchi, Pemba Tshering and Phurba Chhiri used oxygen in same pattern as first summit team. 2nd team left C3 for top at 1:30 am and Sato on top 10:00, Noguchi 10:18 am; Phurba Chhiri with Sato and Pemba Tshering with Noguchi. Returned to C3 4:00 pm to sleep there. 26th down to ABC. 

  Funahashi went to ABC once, stayed in BC otherwise; Homma and Yamagata no higher than ABC (Yamagata went there 3 times). Sonoe Sato, Suzuki, Tada and Taniguchi went to C1 but no higher.


expid: EVER02106
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Miroslav Caban
sponsor: Cho Oyu & Everest 2002
ascent1: 431
approach: By road KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2002-04-10
smtdate: 2002-05-17
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2002-05-20
othersmts: Attempted Cho Oyu (CHOY-021-07)
campsites: BC(10/04,5400m),ABC(12/04,6400m),C1(14/05,7200m),C2(15/05,7700m),C3(16/05,8300m),Smt(17/05)
accidents: Caban frostbite on right hand all fingers except the middle one
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C2 in tent belonging to Swiss expedition
  C3 at French Group's tent (small tent).

  C2 May 15: Caban got shelter in a tent belonging to Swiss expedition. He was carrying small supplies for cooking - no tent, no sleeping bag. The local porter refused to go up beyond C1. His friend Palacky stayed at C1 due to exhaustion, May 16 he spent night in a small Sherpa tent without sleeping bag. From C3 on 17 started alone at 02:00 hours. Summit at 11:30 hours, stayed about one hour. Returned to C3 at 17:00 hours. The weather was good but little windy. Frostbite occurred while loading film in his camera on the top. Japanese Expedition members saw him loading the film. He had left a small Teddy Bear of his daughter on the summit.

  Both the members returned to Kathmandu on May 22 and will leave on June 2.


expid: EVER02107
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Gennady Kirievsky
sponsor: Ural Everest 2002
ascent1: 428,441
approach: By road KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2002-04-10
smtdate: 2002-05-16
smttime: 1315
termdate: 2002-05-26
accidents: Minor frostbite of toe of Povolotski on the night of 18 May
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(10/04,5200m),BC(13/04,5700m),ABC(14/04,6300m),C1(17/04,7000m),C2(04/05,7500m),C3(05/05,7700m),C4(15/05,8300m),Smt(16,18/05)

routememo:
  High point above North Col.

  May 16 Bolotov and Borissov started from C4 at 04:30 hours Chinese time. Bolotov reached summit at 15:30 (13:15 NST) hours, stayed about 50 minutes and returned to C4 at 20:30 (without oxygen). Borissov summited at 16:00 hours (13:45 NST), spent about 20 minutes, returned to C4 at 20:00 hours. Weather was good in the morning, evening was foggy and windy. Other expeditions on summit were Swiss team, Kobler's members, British; did not see anybody coming from the South.

  May 18 Ermatchek, Kirievsky, Povolotski and Rogozin started from C4 at 03:00 hours. All four summited at 12:00 hours (09:45 NST), spent about half an hour (exact timing - no idea). Three members arrived to C4 at 16:00 hours; Povolotski returned to C4 at 17:00 hours.

  Bolotov will try Everest central face of north side next spring with Victor Kazlov.


expid: EVER02108
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Bo-Youl
sponsor: 2002 Korean Everest Expedition
ascent1: 433
approach: By road KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2002-04-03
smtdate: 2002-05-17
smttime: 1055
termdate: 2002-05-21
agency: Thamserku Trekking
campsites:
  BC(03/04,5200m),IntC(10/04,6000m),ABC(11/04,6400m),C1(03/05,7020m),C2(08/05,7700m),C3(16/05,8400m),Smt(17/05)

routememo:
  BC at CBC site.

  May 17 Bae and Park started with two Sherpas from C3 at 02:50 hours. Summit at 10:55 and stayed 40 min. Bae and Dawa descended to ABC 20:00 hours. Park and Pasang to C1, reached at 18:30 hours. While descending park saw Caban (Czech) climbing up without oxygen at before 1st Step. At the time of summit there were about 10-15 people including one women. There was not anybody coming from south side.

  The expedition arrived KTM on May 22 and leaves on 25th.

  Summit Sherpas: 
    Pasang Norbu/Nurbu, Namche, 1954, Everest 1990
    Dawa Tshering, Rimijung, Khumbu, 20/2/67, Everest 1988


expid: EVER02110
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Simone Moro
sponsor: Italy Cho Oyu Expedition
ascent1: 443
approach: From Cho Oyu BC
bcdate: 2002-05-13
smtdate: 2002-05-24
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2002-05-27
othersmts: Climbed Cho Oyu (CHOY-021-29)
campsites: BC(13/05),ABC(14/05,6400m),C1(16/05,7000m),C2(22/05,7700m),C3(23/05,8200m),Smt(24/05)
achievment: Oldest to 'climb' to top (Ishikawa 'carried' to top)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col.

  Summit party of 3 left C3 at 11:30 pm 23 May and at 5:30 am (NST) were 50m below top (light coming), when Curnis oxygen mast broke and changed twice from Moro's. Finally on top at 1:15 pm with no clouds, warm, no wind; stayed on top without using oxygen and there and down without oxygen to be able to see where to put feet. Moro down to ABC 12:00 noon while Curnis and Mingma to C3, where Curnis used oxygen again to sleep (Mingma used from C3 to top and to C3 but not in C3). Curnis on 25 May to ABC same day without oxygen. Curnis oldest person to climb to top; Ishikawa, Japanese 26 days older, was pushed and carried to top.

  Wonderful condition on mountain to descend (South side) but Nepal LO, Ministry of Tourism official knew of Moro's plan; Moro talked to trekking agent by phone about 22 May and learned Moro's plan was known to Tourism officials. Official waiting at BC, so abandoned idea and descended north side. Only 2 members went to Everest: Moro and Curnis.


expid: EVER02111
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Hans Van der Meulen
sponsor: Eneco Everest Expedition
ascent1: 451
bcdate: 2002-04-11
smtdate: 2002-05-30
smttime: 0945
termdate: 2002-06-03
accidents: Van der Meulen's fingers and toes numb from cold
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(11/04),ABC(15/04,6400m),C1(06/05,7000m),C2(14/05,7400m),C3(16/05,7800m),C4.Russian(29/05,8300m),Smt(30/05)

routememo:
  C1 at North Col.

  Tent at C3 blown away 17 May. 18th Germans told them, so used Moro's tent at 7600m 27, 28 and 29 May. 29th both started up for top intending to rest in other's C3, but Wilco tired at 7700m and returned to C3. 29th again both up to 7700m and again Wilco tired and back to camp while Hans on up and he got to 8300m, sat in Russian tent. Hans cold in only down suit and 30th May up at 2:00 am (all Chinese Times). On top about 12:00 noon (9:45 NST) in winds. Found nothing at top and could take no pictures in clouds and cold; on top 1 minute and back 8300m, where picked up his pack, back down to 7600m tent to sleep. Wilco gone down to North Col because no stove at 7600m. 31 May to ABC where Wilco was already. Wilco had planned to paraglide from summit, but his paraglider was amongst all their possessions in C3 when their tent was blown away.

  Source of above information: Van der Meulen


  Email to Mr. Jeevan

  In fact I want to add a thing to the information I gave to Miss Hawley concerning her interview with us after I summited Mount Everest on the 30th of May this year. At the question of her "If I saw something on the summit when I was there," my very direct answer was "no, I did not see anything." The reason was that I was so completely focused on the view from the summit that I understood: "What did you see from the summit?" I stayed no more than 1 minute on the summit because Everest was in big clouds, surrounding me, so I could not see anything around me.

  The next thing she asked was: "how could you know you were on the summit" and I said: "because this place was the very highest point." At that moment of course I could have understand the first question better as it was meant to Miss Hawley but I did not. During the interview I was still very tired from the climb. A few days later this part of the interview came back in my memories. Of course I was not satisfied about my answer concerning the summit because in fact I had seen a bunch of prayer flags swirling around on the summit, and I did not tell to Miss Hawley. To be clear: so I saw nothing else on the summit, only a bunch of prayer flags. With this statement I wish to correct the interview about us and I hope of course that it will not cause any confusion.


expid: EVER02112
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Robert Larrandaburu
sponsor: Northern Basque Expedition to Everest
ascent1: 434
bcdate: 2002-04-08
smtdate: 2002-05-17
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2002-05-25
campsites: BC(08/04),ABC(15/04,6400m),C1(20/04,7000m),C2(15/05,7700m),C3(16/05,8300m),Smt(17/05)
accidents: Muktu Lhakpa fell and had internal injuries; Larrandaburu frostbitten fingers and snowblind in C3
achievment: 1st Northern (French) Basque in Nepalese Himalaya
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col.

  From C3 for top, 3 men started 1:00 am 17 May. Reached top at 11:00 am and returned C3 3:30 pm; Thilen down to ABC same day. 2 members used oxygen sleeping in C3 and to top and down to C3 and sleeping in C3 night of 17 May. Thilen used oxygen from C3 to top and back to C3 only. Climb now finished. Others did not reach C3. All at ABC by 19 May. Leader carried down on 18 May from C1 by Sherpas to ABC because still snowblind (became snowblind in C3 in descent from top).

  Summit Sherpa:
    Thilen Sherpa, Tashigaon, Makalu, Everest X2

  Source of above information: Lapeyrade with Larrandaburu


expid: EVER02113
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Jorge Egocheaga
sponsor: Independent on 'International Everest Expedition'
ascent1: 431
approach: By road KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2002-04-11
smtdate: 2002-05-17
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2002-05-20
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(11/04,5100m),IBC(14/04,5800m),ABC(15/04,6400m),C1(19/04,7000m),C2(05/05,7800m),C3(16/05,8300m),Smt(17/05)

routememo:
  Started from C3 at 08:30 Nepal time. Spent about half an hour on summit back to C3 15:00 hours. Down to ABC at 20:00 hours. He met Gheorghe Dijmarescu near Second Step with oxygen. He returned to Kathmandu on May 26 and will leave on May 29.

  Egocheaga and Nawang Tenzing left C3 for summit at 1:30 am NST on 17 May. Reached summit at 8:30 am and returned C3 4:00 pm and ABC 8:00 pm same day.

  For confirmation about Egocheaga's oxygen use, read attached email. 


  Email sent to Mr. Jeevan by Demetrio Carrases, member of Mexican Ev. team

  Yes, Dr. Egocheaga and me climbed very close. He was carrying oxygen, but was not using it when I met him. Later we separated, but I trust his words about not using oxygen. I hope this information helps you.


  Dijmarescu - 3 June 2002 (on EverestNews.com)

  "The report that Jorge Egocheaga Rodriguez (Spain), from the International Expedition, had summited Everest without Oxygen is false. We climbed in the same day, he started without Oxygen but was too slow and he used Oxygen. I saw him climbing with mask on, besides he never claimed to summit without it. He was a nice caring person, fast on his climb but you cannot compare him to Messner in any way. He and his Sherpa climbed with Oxygen, dozen of people can confirm what I just stated."

  * Nawang Tenzing Sherpa - summit Everest  1999
                          - summit Everest  2002
                          - summit Baruntse 2002
                          - summit Baruntse 2003
   
  Fax to Miss Hawley from Jose Mendieta

  Anyway I had sent before an email to Jorge asking for the bottles oxygen that he had bought and I received his answers hours after your fax. It was a surprise me. I am trying to translate to you the words of the own Jorge.

  My Sherpa carried (two bottles of oxygen) in case that I need it. I must understand that Jorge Egocheaga is telling me that he did not carry any bottle. He writes this for twice in his email. I sent other email last Friday to Jorge to check it because it is difficult for me to think somebody is lying but I had not said to him the words from Demetrio (neither Daniel Perler words) I am waiting for his answer. I think he will never do.

  Because the words from Daniel Perler are more important (I received them after your fax also). I got his email from Asian Trekking. 

  Daniel wrote to me "I was with Jorge Egocheaga on the day summit. I wake up first at 8300m. I got also first with oxygen. At about 8500m, I saw Jorge coming with oxygen. I waited for him and we went together to the summit. We made some fotos on the summit. Jorge had his oxygen mask wth him. It is the absolutely truth that Jorge climbed with oxygen." (These words in black are from the Daniel).

  I have sent other email to Daniel asking for a copy of the pictures but I think now Jorge climbed with oxygen. I am interested in your opinion. 


  Email from Demetrio - 16 Oct 2002

  I had two conversations the summit day with Jorge.

  One was near the Second Step. He actually helped to pass my jumar that was stuck when I left the Chinese ladder. He was not breathing oxgyen, but had all the gear with him.

  The second time we talked was after he had reached the summit and he was on his way down. I had just passed the last bit of rock climbing after the climbing after the summit pyramid and had only 50 meters more to go. He was definitely not using his mask. But since I was not on his all the time I cannot say that he did it all without oxygen. Upto 8300m he did definitely without oxygen. I did myself also, but he was so much quicker than any other climber, I that I don't doubt at all that he did without oxygen. I saw Russian who climbed to the summit wthout oxygen the day before coming down from the summit. But Jorge was definitely a much faster climber.

  The mistake of Jorge was to have carried the oxygen gear from 8300m to the summit. Just in case, and then he noticed he didn't need it at all. So people think he used it. But I also know Jorge personally and think that he is a very honest man, and to be frank, I think he doesn't care about records and fame. He just wants to climb.


expid: EVER02114
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Hartmut Bielefeldt
sponsor: German Mt. Everest Expedition 2002
ascent1: 436
bcdate: 2002-04-11
smtdate: 2002-05-17
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2002-05-26
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  TempBC(11/04,5100m),IntC(14/04,5800m),ABC(15/04,6400m),C1(02/05,7000m),C2(15/05,7700m),C3(16/05,8300m),Smt(17/05)

routememo:
  Both members started from C3 at 01:00 hours Nepal time on 17th. Both reached summit at 11:30 hours. Spent about one hour on the summit. Baeumler returned to C3 at 17:00 hours and Bielefeldt returned to C3 at 19:00 hours. He was late to reach C3 due to exhaustion. Bielefeldt was brought down to ABC on 14th with the help of three Sherpas who were with Egocheaga, Perler and Baeumler. Summit day weather was good but windy. Baeumler and Bielefeldt's Sherpa support was up to C3. The team returned to Kathmandu on 26th and will be leaving on 30th.

  Dr. Jorge Egocheaga from the same permit of Bielefeldt said that Bielefeldt got cerebral edema and in fact was very sick, close to death. He was lucky to have timely help from the Sherpas. Perler agreed to what Dr. Egocheaga said about Bielefeldt.

  Perler's helper Krishna Bahadur Tamang sadly said that with all the help evacuating Bielefeldt, he did not even express to them a word of gratitude, not even a thank you.

  Oxygen: Baeumler used it during summit push from 8000m to top and down to 8300m; Bielefeldt from 7960m to top to ABC.


  Email to Borislav Dimitrov from Claudia Baeumler - June 4, 2002

  My name is Claudia and I accompanied Hartmut during our climb and also the descent from Mt. Everest.

  Because I had no problems during the descent I can remember very well, where, when and from whom we got the two additionally oxygen bottles which we needed for Hartmut's descent. The first bottle we got from Ang Mingma Sherpa (the Sherpa from Simono Moro) at 8000m (George had in this case asked Ang Mingma for the oxygen by himself). The next oxygen bottle we got on the North Col from the tent of one solo Mexican.

  During the descent from 7900m (where George and our Sherpa Mingma shared the stormy night with us) down to North Col George was hours in front of us because we were quite slow in the descent.

  So only our Sherpa Mingma could give word, that we haven't taken any oxygen from your depot.

  By the way, the bottle, which Mingma brought up when he came to help us, was one emergency bottle (also marked with our name) which we had deposit in our Camp II at 7700m. Maybe George mixed here up something.

  I'm afraid that one of your oxygen bottles is missing, but we haven't taken it!


  Email from Borislav Dimitrov - 3 June 2002

  I'm Borislav, the leader of the one of International expeditions on the North Ridge. When my team first go up aftert the storm we found one of our oxygen bottles is missing from our depot on 7800m. And George, who is a good friend of us told me, that you take one bottle from a depot as emergency. Ofcourse its correct. But now I'll appreciate, if you agree, I'll give you my account and appreciate. I'm still in KTM and Dawa from the agency gave me your address.


expid: EVER02115
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Everest Expedition 2002
ascent1: 429,444
countries: Canada, China, France, Japan, Spain
bcdate: 2002-04-08
smtdate: 2002-05-17
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2002-05-31
agency: Mountain Experience
campsites:
  BC(08/04,5200m),ABC(14/04,6400m),C1(01/05,7000m),C2(10/05,7500m),C3(16/05,7900m),C4(16/05,8300m),Smt(17,25/05)

routememo:
  C1 at North Col.

  17 May summit party Yamada and Phurba Tashi left C4 at 1:30 am NST and top 6:30 am and down to ABC at 5:30 pm.

  25 May summit party of Tamura and Phurba Tashi again left C4 at 11:45 pm on 24 May and on top at 5:45 am and down to ABC that night. Phurba Tashi joined in carrying down camps being cleaned but on arrival at ABC a little tired but "looked fine" says Tamura. Now climb finished. 

  Rope fixing: Koreans from ABC to North Col, Brice Sherpa from Col to 7400m, Kobler's Sherpas from 7900m to 8300m; in spots above C4 by Brice and Kobler Sherpas. Total 7000m charged $25 per person and most teams agreed at meetings; those who refused: Higuchi, Skripko (Higuchi's sirdar refused)

  Oxygen: used by Yamada on 16 May from 7500m to 8300m, sleeping in C4 at 8300m, climbing from  C4 to summit to ABC (team had plenty of oxygen and using it made descent faster); Phurba Tashi used it sleeping in C4 to top to 8300m. On 24-25 May Tamura and Phurba Tashi followed wage pattern of member and of Phurba Tashi again.

  Sherpa Summiter: 
    Phurba Tashi, Khumjung, 24/5/71, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X3 - 
      His ascent on 25 May counts as a second ascent in May 2002.

  Members who left expedition early:

  1. Chung: left 13 May reached North Col but had mental block about 
     going any higher. His mental attitude would not allow him to go 
     higher and he developed mild psychosomatic illness.

  2. Marino left 12 May because of pinched shoulder.

  3. Morton, 68 years old, left 17 May. Got to North Col only and stopped 
     climbing when he realized this was his altitude limit.

  4. Ochoa left 17 May. Didn't like Brice telling him what to do, although 
     Brice had hired him to be a guide. He never went higher than 7200m
     and quit. Refused to help Yamada to climb after Brice told him to
     help Yamada, go up but not all the way to summit with him - ego problem.


expid: EVER02116
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Karl Kobler
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Everest Expedition 2002
ascent1: 425
countries: France, Italy
bcdate: 2002-04-13
smtdate: 2002-05-16
smttime: 1000
accidents: Meyer intestinal infection, but no other serious medical problems
agency: Iceland Trekking
campsites:
  BC(13/04,5200m),ABC(18/04,6400m),C1(22/04,7000m),C2(13/05,7500m),C3(14/05,7800m),C4(15/05,8300m),Smt(16/05)

routememo:
  C1 at North Col.

  On 15 May Nawang Thile (aka Pemba) climbed to C4 fixing ropes, fixed them above C4 and slept in C4. Other summit Sherpas and Tibetans slept in C3 night of 15th and climbed from C3 to C4 on 16th, arriving at C4 before 2:00 am (NST) to join rest of summit party and all then went up from C4 together. 4 members dropped out of summit bid: Valloton at 8400m (was using no oxygen and she was too cold without it); Rizzi at 8500m (too tired, too slow and too late to succeed safely); Wirth (also too slow and too late); and Mueller at 8800m (1:30 pm now and Kobler told him it was too late to succeed safely and he must go back down); during his descent got to 8500m at 8:00 pm, after dark and just stopped where he was and went to sleep for the night and suffered no frostbite.

  Successful summiters Baumann, Chassot, Dibona, Kobler, Merat, Wellig, Nawang Thile, Tashi and Pemba Sherpas, and Tibetans Awang and Pasang reached top between 10:00 am and 12:30 pm. All summiters slept in C4 that night except Baumann, who went down to C3 for the night. This was expedition's only summit attempt. 

  2 members left: Jten never went above BC, had no motivation and left expedition, 20 April; Meyer got intestinal infection and left expedition 7 May.

  Oxygen: Valloton used none at all; all other members in summit party used it climbing from C3 to C4, sleeping in C4 on 15th night, climbing to summit and back to C4 and sleeping in C4. Nawang Thile above C2 both days, to top on 16th and back to top; other summit Sherpas and Tibetans climbing from C3 to C4, not while sleeping in C4, climbing from C4 to top and back to C4 but again not sleeping in C4.

  Summit Sherpas:
    Nawang Thile (aka Pemba), 1950, Beding, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X8
    Tashi, 18/4/79, Beding, Everest 2001, Cho Oyu 1998
    Pemba, Taksindu, Nov 1972, Everest 1999

  Kobler has no information about the two Tibetans, who were from Tibetan Mountaineering School in Lhasa; both were with him on Cho Oyu in April 2001.


expid: EVER02117
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Daniel Perler
sponsor: Independent on 'International Everest Expedition'
ascent1: 430
approach: By road KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2002-04-11
smtdate: 2002-05-17
smttime: 0830
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(11/04,5100m),TempBC(14/04,5800m),ABC(15/04,6400m),C1(19/04,7000m),C2(05/05,7800m),C3(16/05,8300m),Smt(17/05)

routememo:
  May 17 started from C3 at 01:00 hours Nepal Time. Reached summit at 08:30 hours and stayed about 30 minutes, then returned to C3 14:00. Weather was good. 

  Mr Perler arrived Kathmandu May 21 leaves on 28. Mr. Perler is 50 years old.


expid: EVER02118
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Marco Chiantore
sponsor: Marco to Everest
bcdate: 2002-04-14
smtdate: 2002-05-15
termdate: 2002-05-19
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to sickness
campsites: BC(14/04),ABC(19/04,6300m),C1(23/04,7000m),C2(15/05,7500m),xxx(15/05)
accidents: Chiantore bronchitis
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  ABC as same as other teams
  C1  at North Col.

  30th down from C1 to ABC to wait for the better weather. 10th May to ABC 13th to C1, 14th in C1 waiting to go to top on 17th. 15th to C2, then to 7600m same day, but then not feeling well and too much gear to move, so slept in C2 and decided not to try climbing any more because had bronchitis which he had at least 10 days. Had expected to go to top until not getting better - wants to try again this autumn.


expid: EVER02119
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: David Pritt
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Everest Expedition 2002
ascent1: 423
countries: Ireland
bcdate: 2002-04-05
smtdate: 2002-05-16
smttime: 1245
termdate: 2002-05-26
campsites: BC(05/04),ABC(11/04,6400m),C1(18/04,7000m),C2(14/05,7700m),C3(15/05,8200m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col.

  Summit party of Pritt, Peacock and Mothersdale left C3 2:30 am (NST) for top 16 May. On top Mothersdale 12:45 pm, Peacock at 1:00 pm, Pritt 1:10 pm and all slept in C3, returning at 5:30-7:00 pm. Down to C2 17th and ABC 18th. Others did not to make summit afterwards because poor weather and not strong enough at the time they should have tried.

  Oxygen: all 3 summiters in C3 before summit bid, up to top, back to C3, night of 16th in C3; also from C2 to C3 on 15 May.


expid: EVER02120
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Wilfried Studer
sponsor: The Couple Expedition to Everest
bcdate: 2002-04-20
smtdate: 2002-05-16
termdate: 2002-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 8650m due to tired and bad weather
campsites: BC(20/04),ABC(25/04,6400m),Biv1(14/05,7000m),Biv2(15/05,7900m),xxx(16/05,8650m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Biv 1 at North Col
  Biv 2 
  High point at near Second Step.

  13 May to ABC for summit bid. 14th to North Col and up entirely alpine style with no fixed camps. 14 May biv at Col, 15 May to 7000m, biv and 11:15 pm (NST) start for top by both Studers alone 16th 3:00 am arrived at 8300m, atop for 1-1/2 hours to wait for others to move up; 4:30 am started up to ridge, on 1st Step close to 2nd Step at 10:00 am, stopped 8650m for half hour, and 10:30 am Wilfried had pain in feet and now too late to reach top and return to 7900m, so down to ABC same day, arrived at ABC 10:00 am. Were one day too early: on 17th route was open and not so crowded. Pain in feet from which all toes had been amputated may due to lack of oxygen or load too heavy. Made no further bid for top because not strong enough without oxygen. 18-20th bad weather again and decided not to try at all 21 May.


expid: EVER02121
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Michael Borrmann
sponsor: Everest Nordgrat Expedition
countries: Germany
approach: By road KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2002-04-15
smtdate: 2002-05-16
termdate: 2002-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 8450m due to bad weather and exhaustion
campsites: BC(15/04,5150m),IntC(19/04,5780m),ABC(20/04,6400m),C1(05/05,7065m),xxx(16/05,8450m)
accidents: Stucki left IntBC on May 5 due to stomach disorder; Borrmann got stomach disorder
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col,

  May 15: All five members started from C2 at 20:00 hours NST. Robl and Zinsli reached at 8450m at 02:00 hours on 16th and found that there was no fix rope. Both waited for Sherpas of Kobler's team to come up and fix ropes. After 1-1/2 hours waiting, it became very cold and they decided to return to C2 where they reached at 06:00 hours. Borrmann got sick at 8100m then went down with Boll-Borrmann and Gujan. They reached C2 at 01:00 hours. The team members became tired. They felt without oxygen it would be difficult to try again the summit and they did not like to use oxygen. 

  The team returned to KTM on May 27 night. They will be leaving, some members on May 31 and rest on June 3.


expid: EVER02122
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Gavin Bate
sponsor: British North Ridge Everest Expedition
countries: Ireland
bcdate: 2002-04-05
smtdate: 2002-05-17
termdate: 2002-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 8600m due to sickness and injury of Canning
campsites: BC(05/04,5400m),ABC(08/04,6400m),C1(17/04,7000m),C2(26/04,7600m),C3(16/05,7900m),xxx(17/05,8600m)
accidents: Canning got dislocation of knee cap (right leg) and also chest infection
achievment: 1st Irishman without oxygen at 8600m
agency: High Country Trekking
routememo:
  May 16 both members started at 22:00 hours from C3. Reached 8300m at about 04:00 hours of May 17. Rested for two hours, then continued. Reached Second Step 8600m at about 13:00 hours. At that point Canning's right crampon got stuck between the rocks and while trying to release it his knee cap got dislocated. Both of them waited there about 2 hours. Then decided to get down. Bate had to support him to get carry down Canning. They reached ABC on 19th.

  Both members arrived KTM on May 25. Bate will be going to Kharikhola to see the work of a clinic and repair work of one of the oldest monasteries in the areas which he is sponsoring, also the construction work or school at Buspa. He will be accompanied by some of his friends from England including a doctor. Canning will leave for Australia after few days in KTM. He is recovering from knee problem and chest. Bolotov, deputy leader of Ural Everest 2002 Expedition, said the work Mr. Bate did on the mountain was heroic, very brave. He said for Bate and Canning the summit would have been no problem without oxygen.


expid: EVER02123
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Mathias Baumann
sponsor: Independent climber
bcdate: 2002-04-19
smtdate: 2002-05-13
termdate: 2002-05-30
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to Baumann lack of strength (at 7800m)
accidents: Baumann's toothache
agency: Iceland Trekking
campsites:
  Sherpas(09/04,6400m),Baumann(19/04,25,6400m),C1(21/05,7000m),C2(22/05,7700m),Sherpas.xxx(13/05,8300m),Baumann.xxx(23/05,7800m)

routememo:
  Sherpas left KTM 6 April, Baumann 13 April
  C1  at North Col
  C2  at 7000m below Kobler team camp
  xxx at C3 site by "Sherpas"
  xxx just above C2 by Baumann.

  Baumann went to North Col on about 2 May but did not sleep there, down to ABC, developed toothache and took medicine for toothache. Then bad weather with strong wind till 12 May. Sherpas made C3 at 8300m 13 May. Now came period of good weather but Baumann not strong because of medication taken for toothache and needed more rest. Finally Baumann started from ABC for top on 21st with Santa [Gurung] and Nima [Tamang] and slept in North Col that night. 22nd slept in C2. 23rd reached 7800m or above and Baumann problem with big O2 mask and down to C2 to sleep. 24 May down to North Col because Baumann said very tired. "Sherpas" go up to bring down C3 but Baumann said very tired. 25 May to ABC and Baumann climbing finished. Sherpas wanted to go down with him to get him to BC. Baumann used oxygen from C3 on 23 May for 2 hours, then mask, which was too big and prevented him seeing well, gave such a problem. He stopped using it and stopped climbing upwards.


expid: EVER02124
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Mexico
leaders: Alejandro Villarreal
sponsor: Un Regio en Everest
ascent1: 445
bcdate: 2002-04-14
smtdate: 2002-05-25
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2002-05-31
campsites: BC(14/04),ABC(19/04,6400m),C1(26/04,7000m),C2(09/05,7700m),C3(24/05,8300m),Smt(25/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Summit push from C3 by Villarreal and Thukten Dorje. Mexican left half hour past midnight of morning of 25th, while Thupten about 1:10 am (he fell asleep just before). Thukten joined and passed Mexican summit ridge at 8550m, before First Step. Thukten and Mexican climbed near each other; at top of Second step Thukten went ahead of Mexican and got to top about 9:30 am and Mexican 10:30 am. Mexican left top first and Thukten afterwards, both slept in C3. Thukten arrived an hour before Mexican, who got to C3 a 6:00 pm. 26 May down to ABC by both. 

  Oxygen used by Mexican at 8000m going to C3, slept on oxygen in C3, up from C3 to top and down to 8500m, where oxygen ran out. Oxygen again in C3 sleeping and down to 7400m on 26th. Thukten used it sleeping in C3, to top and down to 8700m; to sleep in C3 again but not below C3.


expid: EVER02125
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Mexico
leaders: Jorge Hermosillo
sponsor: Mexican Expedition CEMAC Everest 2002 Tibet
ascent1: 435
approach: By road KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2002-04-11
smtdate: 2002-05-17
smttime: 1115
termdate: 2002-05-26
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(11/04,5200m),IBC(14/04,6800m),ABC(15/04,6400m),C1(19/04,7100m),C2(04/05,7600m),C3(15/05,7800m),C4(16/05,8300m),Smt(17/05)

routememo:
  BC at CBC site.

  May 17 started from C4. Hermosillo and Pena left at 11:45 hours NST on 16th. Hermosillo summited at 11:15 hours on 17th, stayed an hour, back to C4 at 17:00 hours. Pena summited at 13:00 hours on 17th. Stayed about 30 minutes back to C4 at 21:00 hours. Carrasco started at 00:15 hours, summited at 11:45 hours, stayed one hour, back to C4 at 20:30 hours. Salazar started at 01:30 hours, summited at 13:00 hours, stayed about 30 minutes and back to C4 at 21:00 hours. (Jorge Egocheaga of Spain was on summit together with Carrasco). Ledesma reached up to the Second Step, but with his eyes frozen, returned to C4 at about 15:00 hours.

  Santos reached up to C2 got diarrhea, returned to ABC. Miss Zamudio Fernandez remained at ABC. 

  The team returned to KTM on May 27 night and will leave Nepal on 31st.


expid: EVER02126
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Mexico
leaders: Mauricio Lopez
sponsor: A Couple in Ascent
ascent1: 432
bcdate: 2002-04-11
smtdate: 2002-05-17
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2002-05-23
campsites: BC(11/04),ABC(16/04,6400m),C1(28/04,7000m),C2(15/05,7800m),C3(16/05,8300m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C2 at slower camp site
  High point at below North Ridge and before First Step.

  May 17 both members and 2 Sherpas left C3 for top at 1:00 am (NST). Lopez stopped at 8790m where oxygen stopped working and Pasang below with him and stopped in C3. Bonilla and Fura Dorje on top 10:00 am in good weather, only little wind. Returned to C3 3:00 pm and also slept in C3 that night. 18 May down to ABC. Mauricio did not make another summit bid because weather report said next weather window was 26 May.
   
  Oxygen use Bonilla and Fura only used oxygen to sleep at C3 16th; going up from C3 used by both members and Fura Dorje but not other Sherpas. Bonilla and Fura down to C3 and sleeping in C3; not below C3; Bonilla had used oxygen sleeping in C2 and from C2 to C3; no one else here.


expid: EVER02127
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Adrian Nature
sponsor: USA Mt. Everest Expedition 2002
bcdate: 2002-04-09
smtdate: 2002-05-10
termdate: 2002-05-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to lack of strength to continue
campsites: BC(09-10/04),ABC(14-15/04,5640m),C1(20/04,7066m),xxx(10/05,7500m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Nature quit about 4 May. Fisher quit about 10 May because that was enough. Earnest to 7500m from C1 about 10 May, then too much of a job to continue alone. Both arrived on 10th night decided to leave mountain. 

  Earnest: "I was heartbroken after putting so much money into the climb," tried to hire a Sherpa but none available at a price he could afford.

  One Sherpa above BC once.


expid: EVER02128
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Gheorghe Dijmarescu
sponsor: Dijmarescu Everest Expedition
ascent1: 439
bcdate: 2002-04-16
smtdate: 2002-05-17
termdate: 2002-05-21
campsites: BC(16/04),ABC(17/04,6400m),C1(14/05,7000m),C2(15/05,7900m),C3(16/05,8300m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at North Col (own tent)
  C2 (Bieldfeld team's tent)
  C3 (own tent).

  Gheorghe went to C2 2-3 times from ABC but never slept there until 14 May in his summit push. On 16th he occupied his tent at C3 and shared it with Yugoslavian members of Russian, Bulgarian, etc expedition of Zoran Miletic. They left C3 at about 1:00 am (NST?) 17 May, Gheorghe using oxygen as he had during his night in tent. Used oxygen down to C3, where he slept that night. Spent night of 18th in other expedition's tent at C2 after having helped rescue other expedition's climbers. Next day to ABC.


  Email to Borislav Dimitrov from Claudia Baeumler - June 4, 2002

  My name is Claudia and I accompanied Hartmut during our climb and also the descent from Mt. Everest.

  Because I had no problems during the descent I can remember very well, where, when and from whom we got the two additionally oxygen bottles which we needed for Hartmut's descent. The first bottle we got from Ang Mingma Sherpa (the Sherpa from Simono Moro) at 8000m (George had in this case asked Ang Mingma for the oxygen by himself). The next oxygen bottle we got on the North Col from the tent of one solo Mexican.

  During the descent from 7900m (where George and our Sherpa Mingma shared the stormy night with us) down to North Col George was hours in front of us because we were quite slow in the descent.

  So only our Sherpa Mingma could give word, that we haven't taken any oxygen from your depot.

  By the way, the bottle, which Mingma brought up when he came to help us, was one emergency bottle (also marked with our name) which we had deposit in our camp II at 7700m. Maybe George mixed here up something.

  I'm afraid that one of your oxygen bottles is missing, but we haven't taken it!


expid: EVER02105
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Brazil
leaders: Paulo Coelho
sponsor: International Couple Expedition
bcdate: 2002-04-20
smtdate: 2002-05-25
termdate: 2002-05-29
termnote: Abandoned at 8400m due to coldness and no good weather coming
campsites: BC(20/04),ABC(26/04,6400m),C1(02/05,7000m),C2(15/05,7900m),C3(24/05,8300m),xxx(25/05,8400m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  25 May 11:00 am NST both members left C3 for top but turned back at 8400m because too cold (was 2:30 am) and slept in C3; 26th to C2 and 27th to ABC. Climb finished because on weather forecast said no more good weather coming. 16 May went to C2 to go to top but both tents gone in winds. 23 May again at C2 another destroyed but had carried North Col tent there this time.


expid: EVER02109
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Tim Gregg
sponsor: Tim Gregg and Julie Smith Everest Expedition 2002
bcdate: 2002-04-14
smtdate: 2002-05-27
termdate: 2002-05-31
termnote: Abandoned at 8400m due to bad snow conditions and Gregg's lack of strength
campsites: ChineseBC(14/04),ABC(19/04),C1(09/05,7000m),C2(23/05,7700m),C3(25/05,8300m),xxx(27/05,8400m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at 7000m on North Col
  C2 at a higher campsite
  xxx below North Ridge and before First Step.

  Gregg and Smith spent two nights in C3 before going for to top. Left C3 just after midnight fo 26/27 May. Climbed for 2 hours to about 8400m in deep drifted snow on top of rock, problem to find fixed ropes and no one else on route so high to break trail. Gregg burned out and difficulty underfoot sent them down to C1 for that night and climb finished.


expid: EVER02131
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Martine Larroque
sponsor: Everest 2002: Climb for Medicins sans Frontiers
approach: Lukla->Namche->Khumjung->Tengboche->Pheriche->Lobuche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2002-04-01
smtdate: 2002-05-16
termdate: 2002-05-19
termnote: Abandoned at 8550m due to sickness (stomach disorder)
campsites: BC(01/04,5300m),C1(10/04,6200m),C2(15/04,6600m),C3(14/05,7500m),C4(15/05,7900m),xxx(16/05,8550m)
accidents: Sickness: stomach disorder-vomiting
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  High point at 8550m at Balcony.

  May 16: Left C4 at 21:30 hours. At 8550m could not bear vomiting, diahorrea and returned to C4 at 03:00 hours on 17th. Until previous day she was Ok. She was with Lhakpa Tshering (Chhiri) Sherpa who had summited Everest with Spanish Expedition 2000 or 2001. She returned to Kathmandu on May 22 and leaves on 27th.


expid: EVER02132
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Armenia
leaders: Igor Khalatian
sponsor: Independent climber on Everest
ascent1: 417
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2002-04-01
smtdate: 2002-05-16
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2002-05-17
campsites: BC(01/04,5400m),C1(11/04,6200m),C2(12/04,6500m),C3(17-18/04,6800m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(16/05)
achievment: First person with passport from Armenia
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  May 15: Started around 11 pm. Summit on 16th at 9 am. He wrote that he was approximately 6th or 7th person on the summit and was the first one to go. He wrote "I had to wait 56 minutes on top of Hillary Step to let people (who were going up) to pass." Descended to C4 in two hours and after spending 15 minutes in C4. Continued for C2 where he reached after four hours. Next day (May 17) to BC where he reached at 11 am. Weather was good on summit day.

  Summit Sherpas: 
    Phurba, 43, BS 2025 [2015?], Phurte, near Thami, Cho Oyu 23/9/96, 
       Everest 18/5/00 as Ang Phurba
    Nima Nuru, Thami, Everest 21/5/00


expid: EVER02133
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Alberto Magliano
sponsor: Everest Italian Exepedition
ascent1: 450
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Ama Dablam BC->Pheriche->Lobuche
bcdate: 2002-04-10
smtdate: 2002-05-25
smttime: 1120
termdate: 2002-05-28
campsites: BC(10/04,5350m),C1(15/04,6000m),C2(17/04,6450m),C3(06/05,7300m),C4(23/05,7900m),Smt(25/05)
accidents: Greco got muscles cramps (legs & hands) on 22 May (he left for BC in the morning of May 23)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  May 24: Magliano started with Chuldim Nuru from C4 at 22:00 hours. Summit on 25th at 11:20 hours and stayed on summit 20 mintues. Back to C4 at 15:30 hours.

  Other Sherpa in the team was Pasang Tenji Sherpa, Thami.

  The team returned to KTM on 30th and will leave on June 01.

  Sherpa summiter:
    Chuldim Nuru, 36, Phurte near Thami, Everest 20/5/98 and 25/5/01


expid: EVER02134
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Noriyuki Muraguchi
sponsor: Independent climber on Swiss Everest 2002
ascent1: 422
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2002-04-08
smtdate: 2002-05-16
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2002-05-21
campsites: BC(08/04,5300m),C1(16/04,6000m),C2(20/04,6400m),C3(13/05,7300m),C4(14/05,7900m),Smt(16/05)
accidents: Muraguchi and Watanabe with three Sherpas
achievment: Oldest women to summit
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at usual campsite
  C4 at South Col.

  May 15: left C4 at 21:50 hours. Summit on 16th at 09:30 hours and stayed 30 minutes on summit. Returned to C4 at 14:30 hours. Next day to C2 and following day to BC. Other expeditions on summit were Korean and other expedition. Muraguchi and Ms. Watanabe said that Mr. Khalatian with one Sherpa reached summit before Muraguchi team.

  The team returned to KTM on May 24 and will leave on May 31 or June 1.

  Sherpa Summiters:
    Nuru Wangchu, Pangboche, 24, Everest 21/5/00 (Ev 2nd time now)
    Chewang Dorje (Angrita's son), Thami, 26 yrs old, Everest X2 (Everst 3rd now)
    Ang Pasang Sherpa (aka Pasang Nuru), Khumjung, 36, 1st 8000er (Everst 1st time)


expid: EVER02135
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Pemba Doma Thaktopa Sherpa
sponsor: Nepalese Women Everest Expedition I.Y.M. 2002
ascent1: 419
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2002-04-10
smtdate: 2002-05-16
smttime: 0910
termdate: 2002-05-22
campsites: BC(10/04,5400m),C1(25/04,6270m),C2(22/04,6523,C3(13/05,6800m),C4(14/05,7900m),Smt(16/05)
achievment: 1st Nepal woman and only 4th woman from any nation to scale Everest twice
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  C4 at South Col.

  May 15: Miss Pemba and Lhakpa started from C4 at 22:00 hours. Summited on 16th at 09:10 hours and stayed about 20-25 minutes. Returned to South Col at about 12:30 hours (about 3 hours from summit to C4). Descended to BC on 17th. At the time of summit there were 5 or 6 people on summit including Appa and Tashi.

  1)  Oxygen: Miss Pemba used oxygen from yellow band (about 7800m), 
      little oxygen for sleep at C4. Summit day, from C4 to summit then to C4.
     
      Lhakpa Tshering used oxygen on summit day from C4 to summit and to C4.

  2)  First Nepalese woman and only fourth woman from any nation to scale
      Everest twice.

  Miss Pemba Doma said she can fluently speak eight different languages (Sherpa, Nepali, Tibetan, Hindi, English, German, Italian and French) and currently learning Spanish.


expid: EVER02137
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Um Hong-Gil
sponsor: 2002 Korean Everest Expedition
ascent1: 421
approach: Lukla by Grp A; KTM/Syangboche helicopter Grp B
bcdate: 2002-04-04
smtdate: 2002-05-16
smttime: 0920
termdate: 2002-05-20
campsites: BC(04/04,5500m),C1(13/04,6300m),C2(17/04,6700m),C3(21/04,7300m),C4(07/05,7900m),Smt(16/05)
accidents: Chung stomach trouble
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  BC in two groups
  C4 at South Col.

  May 15 started from C4 at 20:00 hours. Summit on 16th at 9:30 hours and stayed about 40 minutes. Down to C2 at 16:00 hours. 

  The expedition's first planned attempt was on May 8, but could not move up due to bad weather.

  On summit day member Choi got up to 7300m [8300m?] and returned to C4 due to tiredness. Chung went up to 7700m got sick and gave up. 

  Members who left Nepal early:
    Cho Left on April 24 due to his business back home.
    Miss Kim had to leave because her father died; left on April 8.
    Lim left Nepal on April 4 due to his work.

  The team returned to KTM on May 24 and will be leaving on 27.

  Mr Um said that he will try on Lhotse Shar in autumn. He said the climb was to celebrate World Cup and he had left a small football and Fifa bag on Everest summit.

  Lee, Park, Ra and Um on May 8 wanted to attempt from C4, but due to bad weather, they had to stay at South Col.


expid: EVER02138
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Stephane Schaffter
sponsor: Geneva Everest 1952-2002 Expedition
ascent1: 415
countries: Australia, France
bcdate: 2002-04-02
smtdate: 2002-05-16
smttime: 0845
termdate: 2002-05-21
campsites: BC(02/04,5350m),C1(11/04,5900m),C2(17/04,6400m),C3(13/05,7300m),C4(14/05,7950m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in West Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  14th evening not good enough weather for summit bid. Left C4 15th May 9:30 pm for top: all summiters and Troillet left camp together. Troillet the only one without oxygen (he considers it unethical). Troillet turned back at balcony 8450m, where going slowly and did not like being in a queue with tourists, what's going on Everest in commercialization, which means organizers takes nearly everybody with enough money. Others in party went to top from 8:45 pm (Apa) to about 10:00 am. All slept in C4 on 16th. 17th Lambert to C2, Tashi to BC. 18 May all in BC. 

  Lambert: I climbed Everest as a tribute to my father and to make the film about the 1952 and 2002 expeditions. I telephoned my mother when I was safely down in BC and she was "very happy."

  Sherpa Summiters:
    Apa, Thami, Everest X11
    Dawa Nuru, 38, Thami, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1
    Ang Sona, Thami, 25 years, Everest 25/5/01


  Scheffter by Email - 30 July 02

  Oxygen used by Schaffter, Lambert, Vallot, Tashi Tenzing & Arvis from 7800m to Col, Col to top and back to Col.


  Apa - 20 July 02

  3 Sherpa summiters used O2 from Col to top and back, but not at Col.


  Everest heroes' descendents return from Everest
  By Hawley

  Kathmandu, May 22 (Reuters) - The son of Swiss mountaineer who climbed in 1952 to the highest point on earth attained until then, and a grandson of the Sherpa who accompanied him, returned on May 22 from their successful ascent of Everest together in memory of their ancestors on May 16.

  Tashi Tenzing said that he "had a clear image of his grandfather at the summit. I saw him before my eyes, and he had a big smile on his face."

  Tashi Tenzing left on the the summit a photograph of Tenzing Norgay and Raymond Lambert together, which Tashi's mother, a daughter of Tenzing Norgay, had given him to take to the top of the world.

  While on the summit, Tashi bowed three times to the picture, and thanked Chongolungma, for giving him "beautiful weather" that day and thus letting them succeed. He also telephoned to his mother in Darjeeling with the great news.

  Lambert said that he had no visions -- "I'm a pragmatic sort of person," he explained. But he did have a warm memory of this father throughout his climb. He wore to the summit a scarf that Tenzing Norgay had given his father (but Lambert did not leave it there).


expid: EVER02139
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Henry Todd
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Everest and Lhotse Expedition
ascent1: 416,448
countries: Hungary, USA
bcdate: 2002-04-07
smtdate: 2002-05-16
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2002-05-20
othersmts: Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-021-05)
campsites: BC(07/04,5350m),C1(15/04,6100m),C2(22/04,6400m),C3(26/04,7300m),C4(04/05,7900m),Smt(16,25/05)
accidents: Ang Nuru slight frostbite; Acs serious pulmonary edema
achievment: 1st Hungarian summiter
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  C1 at 6100m top of Icefall
  C2 at 6400m in West Cwm
  C3 at 7300m on Lhotse Face
  C4 at 7900m at South Col.

  1st summit attempt from C4 15 May 9:30 pm and 10:30 pm and 3 Hungarians (Acs, Erros, Mecs) at after 4:00 am; Eross just below South Summit, Acs balcony and South Summit and Mecs below; were not on oxygen and hadn't enough strength. Morris, Stanford and Peeters and 4 Sherpas and all to top at Morris 9:00 am, Stanford 10:30 am, Peeters 11:00 am and Sherpas within same period and all in C4; 17th May down mountain: Acs serious pulmonary edema and walked down to yellow band 7500m and dragged down to C3 for night and walked to C2; others down to C2 but Eross went to BC. 

  2nd Summit party left C4 at 10:30 pm 24 May: Eross and Varkonyi without Sherpas; Eross summited with oxygen towards last part of ascent (altitude not known) and problem, down to C4; arrived at top alone and after Hillary party and South Col for night; 26th BC. Varkonyi to South Summit with no oxygen and slept at Col and BC 26th. 

  Acs used oxgyen during his descent when sick.

  Sherpa summiters
    Pasang Dawa, Pangboche, 18/1/77
    Pasang Tshering, Pangboche, 26, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2
    Gurmin Dorje, 4/8/2033, 27 years old, Pangboche, 1st 8000er
    Lhakpa Chhiri, aka Sonam as a monk, 28, Pangboche, 1st 8000er

  Leader Henry Todd was banned by HMG in 2002 from entering Nepal for 2 years, so he had his Everest and Lhotse team by walkie-talkie from North Col in Tibet, with visits to KTM before and after climbs in late March early April and again in late May-early June. Ban ended 1 June 2002.

  Peter Legate's death. On 30 April he was descending from C3 following Varkonyi. Varkonyi looked around one time and saw Legate sliding down the mountain, hit the top lip of the bergschrund and plunged into it. His body too far down to retrieve and is still there. Why he fell is unknown; somehow he was not fixed onto the ropes.


  BC - Nepal - Mountaineering
  British Climber dies on Everest
  BY Hawley

  Kathmandu, April 30 (Reuters) - A British mountaineer was killed in a fall while climbing Mount Everest April 30, the Nepalese tourism ministry announced April 30.

  Peter Legate, 38 year-old British business manager who lived in Lymington, Hampshire, plunged to his death at 6:30 in the morning while descending from his expedition's third high-altitude camp after having helped to fix ropes along the climbing route.

  Most expeditions place their third camps at altitude of about 7400m (24,280 ft). 

  Legate lost his footing and slipped 200 meters (655 ft) down the mountainside, the ministry said. His body landed inside a crevasse.

  Legate was not married.

  Legate's death brings to 173 the total number of climbers who have died on Everest. He is the 13th Briton to die on expedition to the world's highest mountain.


expid: EVER02140
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: William Prittie
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) South Col Expedition 2002
ascent1: 449
countries: Canada, Ecuador, New Zealand, Switzerland
bcdate: 2002-04-13
smtdate: 2002-05-25
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2002-05-29
campsites: BC(13/04,5350m),C1(19/04,5900m),C2(21/04,6400m),C3(05/05,7200m),C4(23/05,7900m),Smt(25/05)
accidents: Mathy serious intestinal infection; nothing else serious
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  C1 just at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Summit party left C4 at 8:20 pm to 10:00 pm on 24 May: Leroy, McDonald, Witzig, Yoder, Hanna, Prittie, Tejas, Peralvo, Roberts, Benitez. Hanna got to 8050m, not feeling strong, not moving well, not right for going on and down to South Col: deep snow (to knees, some to thighs) from 8400m to South Summit and this expedition did 80% of trail breaking here (Athans did other 20%). Also in summit party were 8 Sherpas, all of whom reached top. Summit reached at 10:30 am by Benitez, Witzig and Pemba Rinzi; last on top Prittie at 11:50 am. All slept in C4 (including Hanna)); all down to C2 on 26th and BC 27th.

  Oxygen used: 98 bottles of 4 liters each were used: Summit party, all members sleeping in C3, climbing to C4, sleeping in C4, climbing to top and back to C4, sleeping in C4 (Hanna down from C4 to C2 and sleeping in C2, Tejas sleeping in C2, but not climbing to C2). All Sherpa summiters sleeping in C4, climbing to top and back to C4 and sleeping again in C4.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Lhakpa Rita, Thami, 1966, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X2
    Chuwang Nima, Thami, 1967, Everest X8
    Tshering Dorje, Kharikhola, 1970, Everest X3
    Kami Rita, aka Topke, Thami, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X1
    Pemba Rinzi, Kharikhola, Everest X3
    Mingma Chhiri, Thami, Everest X3
    Ang Pasang, Thami, 34, Everest X3
    Kami Rita, Thami (also), 24 years, Everest X1

  Mathy left expedition 23 May because of serious intestinal infection.


  Al Hanna - 31 March 2002 
   
  "We try to give inspiration to clever people not to give up." "Going to reach the top this time?" "Yes I am" he said emphatically. "I understand the mountain and can visualize the South Summit where I turned back last time and from talking to people and seeing pictures of the last 300 ft. I realize its not so awesome as I thought it was."


expid: EVER02141
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
route2: W Ridge (to 7930m)
nation: USA
leaders: Peter Athans
sponsor: National Geographic Everest 2002 (via South Col & W Ridge)
ascent1: 447
countries: New Zealand
bcdate: 2002-04-05
smtdate: 2002-05-25
smttime: 1005
termdate: 2002-05-26
campsites: BC(05/04,5360m),C1(13/04,6000m),C2(16/04,6350m),C3(07/05,7200m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(25/05)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm's lowest camp
  C3 at 7200m on Lhotse face
  C4 at 7900m at South Col.

  For South Col party: 20 May huge collapse of sheet-like seracs in Icefall at 9:00 am; Graber and Surette were in that area but they fled unhurt but unnerved. At this time water pouring down C2 are in incredible way weather

  Went to Col first time 18 May: Graber, Hillary, Ruddick, Surette, 8 Sherpas; very windy most of night and in morning roar of wind like freight train, so down mid-morning considering whether to wait for next day. Decided not and left for C2 at 11:00 and down to BC. In C2 foot deep/slush. Down from C2 to BC in 2-1/2 hours. Then up from BC with Bishop, Athans, Hillary, Nima Tashi, Da Sona, Kami, Dawa, Arita (Apa's brother) on 23 May to C2, 24th to C4, went for top leaving C4 11:00 pm 24th and on top at 10:05 am 25th for 1 hour 20 minutes on top. Clouds came in and covered Lhotse but not Everest top, very little wind. Down to C4 at 1:00 pm, C2 at 5:00 pm and next mainly to BC (on 26th). Left 27th to Pangboche and 28th landed by helicopter at 9:00 am in KTM. 


  Bishop - 30 May 02

  Hygienic conditions at C2 bad because it was lowest camp on lateral moraine and human waste from camps above must have caused contaminated, cook not careful enough.


  Oxygen use (Hillary)

  On 1st attempt, when reached C4 on 18 May but did not go above C4: oxygen used by Hillary, Graber, Suretta, Ruddick from C3 up to C4, at C4 and down to C3; Sherpas in C4 only.

  On successful attempt: Hillary, Athans, Bishop from C3, in C4, to top and down to C3; Sherpas in C4 to top to C4.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Kami Sherpa, 19/12/79, Ragail village, Okhaldhunga, 1st 8000er 
    Dawa Sona (aka Da Sona, Dawa Sonam), Pangboche, Everest X3
    Nima Tashi, Pangboche, Everest X4
    Arita, Thami, Everest X4, Apa's brother
    Dawa, formerly from Sink Harka Solu, now KTM, 2 April 67, 
      Cho Oyu 10/7/95 (with Athans)


  Email from Peter Hillary - June 28, 2002

  It is great to be home after 71 days on Mount Everest. (Although I've already made a trip to the US since arriving home just 4 days and 14 hours after standing on the summit of Mt Everest, and tomorrow I fly to Australia for two weeks's work).

  I wanted to write and thank you for your support and encouragement during my two and a half months on Mt. Everest. It was a difficult expedition.SI effectively climbed the mountain twice in one season, and in a debilitated state at that. I still shudder to recall my fall at the base of the Hillary Step on the way down. My foot slipped and I fell out from the ridge and ended up with my head poking out over the 8000-foot high South West Face of Everest. Strangely my first rather understated thought was "this is a rather bad place to fall over and sprain your ankle." Thankfully it's starting to heal now. Even more chilling is the knowledge that the exact same helicopter that carried us out so quickly from the Everest region back to KTM, tragically crashed a few days later, killing all those from the French and Spanish expeditions on board. It has yet to be found.

  The coming months are already crammed full with presentations and media appearances - and somewhere in there Johm Elder and I will be producing our book. We're also very excited about the 50th Anniversary of my father's climb of Mt Everest. There's a great Everest exhibition planned; the release of the National Geographic documentary in May 2003, along with the release of the book, and a celebration banquet at the foot of Mt Everest on May 29th; the day Dad first climbed it 50 years ago, (If you are interested in attending, let me know!)

  A lot of exciting projects ahead. But mostly I'm excited and grateful to have the gift of life, and the warmth and love of my family. Extreme experiences always give me a renewed appreciation of these as the most treasured thing of all.


  With South Col-South East Ridge party
  BC  on  5 April at 5350m
  C1  on 13 April at 6050m
  C2  on 16 April at 7200m
  C3W on  7 May   at 7270m

  xxx on West Ridge on 10 May 7390m at on West Ridge above West Shoulder
  Climb abandoned at 7390m due to need to join South Col effort.

  Summit on 25 May
  Fixed rope used 1200m from C2 to West Ridge
  Sherpas above BC: 3 from pool of this and South Col party


  Details of climb: From 16 April to 10 May Athans and Bishop fixed all 
  rope to West Shoulder and 80% of load carrying up the route, with very little Sherpa support since Sherpa strength concentrated on National Geographic Film. C3W pitched below Shoulder to protect it from winds. Didn't really make an attempt on this ridge: no forecast of day weather window without strong winds and was clear that film needed to do achieve sponsors first priority to make film (Athans did final filming) - "quite frustrating". Peter and I were climbing well together." Clark reached C3W as well as site of South Col teams's C3.

  Sponsor was National Geographic.


  26 May 2002 - Peter arrived at BC just now. His right toe is a little red from being nearly frozen on summit day, but its otherwise unaffected. It was exhausting work, negotiating the Icefall through one foot of new snow. The monsoon has started and everything is covered in cloud.

  25 May 2002, C2 - An extraordinary effort. After 19 hours of climbing, 3000 ft up and 8000ft down. Peter and the team are back at C2. Tomorrow they will descend to BC.

  25 May 2002, South Col - He arrived back at the South Col with the rest of the team in about 4 hours. They immediately packed up their things to - incredibly - descend still further to C2. They are running low on oxygen and cannot risk being caught out on the South Col.

  24 May 2002, 4 pm at C4 - Peter and the others have made it to the South Col, incredibly, for the second time in a week. An extraordinary effort give what they've been through. After the extreme conditions of late, temperatures were so mild that they arrived on what is one of the windiest places on the planet in light finger gloves, fleece pants, and a jacket. It was simply too hot for down suits.

  Peter sounds in good spirits, although when I told him that I needed to give him a change in numbers for one of his summit calls, he said "Oh God, but I'm so scatty. I put a spoon down and now I'll never find it again". He can't be too hypoxic however, because moments later he joked: "Oh, that right, I don't need a spoon to write with..." He says they're greedily guzzling the oxygen.

  The team are about to discuss the summit plans. The winds on the summit may be as "breezy" as 30 knots tomorrow.

  23 May, 2002 - Peter has called to say they have safely negotiated their way through the fragile Khumbu Icefall to C2 and are feeling good. Tomorrow will be the real test - a huge 5000 foot haul (1500 metres) up the Lhotse face to C4 on the South Col, which last week they did over two days. If the winds are not too strong, they will leave that night for the summit. The weather forecast however, is marginal.

accidents:
  Plagued by gastro-intestinal problems frequently; Ruddick's tooth fell out and became infected; Hillary fell in descent


expid: EVER02142
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: David Hahn
sponsor: Team No Boundaries (IMG permit)
ascent1: 440
bcdate: 2002-04-08
smtdate: 2002-05-18
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2002-05-22
campsites: BC(08/04,5350m),C1(17/04,6100m),C2(19/04,6500m),C3(02/05,7300m),C4(17/05,7900m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in West Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Summit party left C4 for top at 10:00 pm on 17th. 14 people turned back at almost 28,700 ft, Marshall ahead of them at just below start of Hillary Step and others spreadout from these down to point 100 ft short of South Summit, all at about same altitude. Summit attempt cancelled due to some of woman beginning to weaken, but for all the reason to go down was storm was building up 18 May by 6:00 am. Norton and Karma Rita on top at 8:00 am despite clouds and then wind blowing new snow falling so visibility was practically nil (but fixed ropes visable); everyone returned to Col safely. Women's group was guided party and leader cautious.


  Email from David Hahn to Miss Hawley - June 15, 2002

  It wasn't 11 members going for the summit. Our intention was to have the five guided clients, the three guides and the photographer. This would have been a total of nine members, so I'm not sure who the other two on your list would have been, but they were not climbing high in any case. As it turned out, one of the clients, Midge Cross turned around just above C3. All of the others: Alison Levine, Jody Thompson, Lynn Prebble, and Kim Clark, along with the three guides: Ben Marshall, Lisa Rust and myself, and the photographer: Jake Norton went on to C4 and left that night 10 pm on May 17) for the summit giving a total of eight members.

  Mmmm ... frightening to see how quickly my memory is deteriorating. I can't name all of them just now. There were eight who left high camp, a ninth (Ang Passang from Carricola?) stayed at C4 in support. Of the eight that went up, Panuru (from Phortse) was in charge. His brother, Danuru was along (he had made the top on the 16th), Phu Nuru from Phortse climbed, Pemba Tenzing was along, as was Ang Gialu. There was Karma Rita, who made it to the top with Jake, and I'm having trouble coming up with the last two names. They were not any of the climbers from the 16th who made the top and they were not Ang Pasang from Pangboche or Phuru, the ABC cook, or Phinzo from Phortse. We had 17 Sherpas total, above BC and this eliminates eight of them.. so of the remaining nine, eight were used, six are named and two are eluding me .. two out of the remaining three on the overall list .. which I don't have right now .. not sure this helps. sorry

  I did not use it [oxygen] until we started climbing for C4 in the morning. All other members used it for sleeping at C3 and then for climbing to C4.

  Everybody used it continuously climbing to C4, in C4, up from C4 to respective highest points, sleeping again in C4, continuously above C3. All Sherpas used it continuously at C4 and above.


expid: EVER02143
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Sean Swarner
sponsor: Cancer Climber Expedition 2002 to Everest
ascent1: 420
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2002-04-07
smtdate: 2002-05-16
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2002-05-18
campsites: BC(07/04,5360m),C1(14/04,6300m),C2(20/04,21,6700m),C3(22/04,7300m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  BC at 5300m
  C4 at South Col.

  C1 about altitudes, he did not remember but all camps were made at places where other expedition put up camps.

  May 15: All 3 summiters started from C4 at 23:00 hours. Summit at 09:30 hours of May 16 and stayed on top about 35 minutes. Back to C4 at about 14:00 hours. Does not have firm idea about returning time to C4. Next day to BC. Swarner returned to KTM on 22 and will leave on May 25. 

  Nima Gombu Sherpa, this his 8th summit, and Kami Sherpa his 4th summit on Everest.

  Sherpa summiters
    Nima Gombu, 2 Jan 1969, Beding, Everest X7, Cho Oyu 9/10/01
    Kami (aka Kame), 1962, Bagam, Kerung, Everest X3, Lhotse 25/5/98,
       Cho Oyu 29/9/01


expid: EVER02144
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Willie Benegas
sponsor: Alpine 8000 International Everest Expedition
ascent1: 418
countries: Australia, Canada, Netherlands
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2002-04-04
smtdate: 2002-05-16
smttime: 0909
termdate: 2002-05-20
campsites: BC(04/04,5300m),C1(14/04,6000m),C2(18/04,6400m),C3(06/05,7300m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(16/05)
accidents: Gerstein had eye problem; Maccecchini got sick; Bruno Rodi had heart problem
achievment: 1st Latin American born with 3 summits
agency: High Country Trekking
routememo:
  C4 at South Col.

  May 15: Five members and five Sherpas left C4 at different times: Leader Benegas and Phanden Sherpa started at 21:00 hours, reached summit at 09:09 hours on May 16th. Both stayed on top 3-1/2 hours. Returned to C4 at 14:30 hours. Apa Sherpa was with them on the summit. 

  Rest of the members left C4 at 22:30 hours. Jason Rodi, Woolums with Mingma Sherpa reached summit at 09:40 and stayed about 40 minutes and returned to C4 at 13:30 hours. Geier and Ongdi (Nima Wangdeki): Ongdi reached summit at 09:20 and Geier at 10:00 hours. They stayed 20 minutes and returned to C4 at 18:00 hours.

  Gerstein had to return with Nima Sherpa from 8500m due to eye problem.
  Maccecchini went up to 7300m and got sick and gave up. 
  Bruno Rodi reached up to 6800m and gave up due to heart problem. 
  Strik left BC after 10 days of arrival.

  Oxygen: Benegas and Sherpas from C4 to smt to C4. Other members from C3 - climbing and little for sleeping - to summit - back to C4 and sleep. 

  Members left BC and Nepal on different dates. Leader returned to KTM on 24th May leave on June 2.


expid: EVER02129
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Eric Simonson
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Everest Expedition 2002
ascent1: 426
bcdate: 2002-04-04
smtdate: 2002-05-16
smttime: 1020
termdate: 2002-05-20
campsites: BC(04/04,5380m),C1(11/04,6100m),C2(13/04,6500m),C3(30/04,7300m),C4(14/05,7900m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Summit team of 10 set out from C4 at 10:30 pm on 15th for top. Tucker and Ang Pasang Sherpa turned back at about 27,500 ft because Tucker's feet cold and just did not want to carry on and Ang Pasang went back with him. Other eight, the Ershlers, Wheeler, Smith and 4 Sherpas to top at 10:20 am to 11:35 (Smith) and back to Col 4:30-6:30 pm (difference due to traffic on ropes and different speeds).

  Oxygen: all summit party and Flynn (who did not go above Col) sleeping in C3, C3 to C4, sleeping C4, C4 to top, sleeping in C4 on return from top; 5 Sherpas in summit party used oxygen sleeping in Col, C4 to top, same in C4 that night while some went same day to C2 without oxygen.

  Sherpas summiters 
    Dawa Nuru (aka Danuru), Phortse, 26/10/78, Everest X2
    Mingma Ongel, Phortse, 27/3/78, Everest X1
    Dorje Lama, 26, Bhakanje, Solu, 1st 8000er
    Mingma Tshering, 25, Phortse, 1st 8000er


expid: EVER02130
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Bill Crouse
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Everest Expedition 2002
ascent1: 424
countries: Australia, Iceland, New Zealand
bcdate: 2002-04-08
smtdate: 2002-05-16
smttime: 0956
termdate: 2002-05-18
campsites: BC(08/04,5350m),C1(14/04,6100m),C2(16/04,6400m),C3(04/05,7350m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  C4 at South Col.

  Summit party left C4 10:30 pm 15 May: 11 people, of whom 7 got to top: Arnette (turned back at 8300m at 1:55 am 16 May [due to lung infection]), Burch and Plotke at 2:35 am with Phu Tashi Sherpa, 2 members exhausted and Sherpa went with them at 8350m). Other seven, Miller, Olafsson, Hiddleston, Crouse, 3 Sherpas to top at 9:56 and 10:25 (as per Ministry of Tourism list). All down to C4 to sleep. 

  [Guy Cotter reported to EverestNews.com summit times of 10:10 and 10:50, instead of 9:56 and 10:25.]

  Oxygen: All 11 people used it: C3 sleeping and C3 to C4. 7 members; 2 summit party Sherpas sleeping in C4 (Chuldim from Khumjung and Phurba from Makalu VDC). All 11 summit party including Sherpas used it from C4 towards top and down to C4 and sleeping in C4 on 16th by 8 people, the 7 to top and Chuldim.

  Summit Sherpas: 
    Chuldim, aka Ang Dorje, Chuldim Dorje, 10/5/64, Pangboche, Everest X7
    Pasang Tenzing, 25, Phortse, Everest X1
    Lhakpa Dorje, 41, Sanam, Makalu X2, Lhotse

  2 members left early: 
    Maluish on 21 April, not experienced enough climber
    Taske on 28 April for personal reasons


expid: EVER02136
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Charlie Fowler, Hector Ponce de Leon
sponsor: Mountain Madness Everest Expedition 2002
ascent1: 427
countries: Mexico, UK
bcdate: 2002-04-07
smtdate: 2002-05-16
smttime: 1045
termdate: 2002-05-19
campsites: BC(07/04,5300m),C1(13/04,6000m),C2(20/04,6400m),C3(09/05,7200m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(16/05)
accidents: Bird slightly frostbitten toes; Ponder's twisted knee
agency: Mountain Madness
routememo:
  ABC at normal site
  C1  at top of Icefall
  C2  in West Cwm
  C3  on West Face
  C4  at South Col.

  "Trekkers" Nuptse climbers: Hart couple (not fit enough, never above BC and left expedition 10 April). 

  Dean with Fowler to C1 on 12 April and to C2 site on 13 April and back same day to C1 and BC 14 April and left BC 15 April. Smith to top of Icefall with Dean and Fowler and turned around and return to BC same day and on 15th left BC. [Both Dean and Smith only intended to go through Khumbu Icefall].

  For Everest climb: Ponder twisted knee 9th above BC at bottom of Icefall, tore tendons and needed treatment in KTM so left BC in helicopter on 11 May. So now 5 members for Everest climb. C1 slept in C1 on 13th in beginning of serious climb. Set out for top from C4 at 11:45 pm of 15th: Colyer very slow turned back on South Summit at about 11:30 am with Changba Sherpa at the time the summiters returned from top so all down together to C4 at 2:30 to 8:30 pm, Fowler and Ponce de Leon last because had waited at balcony where weather now quite windy and wind blowing snow, so visibility poor weather had changed from balcony to poor at about 2:00 pm. All to C2 and Sherpas down to C1 and radioed back to C2 that dangerously warm down in Cwm and ladders in Cwm and Icefall unsteady so members stayed in C2 for night. Members in BC morning of 18th.

  Oxygen: sleeping in C3 by Holt, Bird, Colyer, Fowler and Ponce de Leon, (no Sherpas, did not even sleep in in C3); to C4 by Holt, Bird and Colyer only; in C4 sleeping by Holt, Bird, Fowler, Ponce de Leon and 3 Sherpas of summit bid; C4 to top: all who went up towards top and down to C4; Bird, Colyer and Holt to C3.

  Holt went to C4 with summit party but did not go above C4 because of knee problem which required no medical attention.

  About 30 people on top at same times as these summiters, at 10:45 am.


expid: GAUG02101
peakid: GAUG
year: 2002
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Peter Ackroyd
sponsor: Cowboys in Damodar Himal
ascent1: 1st
approach: Kagbeni->Chuwang->NE to Tange & Yara->SE to Gumathati
bcdate: 2002-05-26
smtdate: 2002-05-28
smttime: 1320
termdate: 2002-05-29
campsites: BC(26/05,5400m),Smt(28/05)
achievment: 1st ascent in first known attempt
agency: Jai Himal Trekking
routememo:
  BC west of Gaugiri.

  Actually got to BC on 23 May and bived, but porters and cook had gone to lakes and gompas south of there and went away to meet staff and return to set up camp. 26th and 27th snowfall so stayed in BC till 28th morning in relatively good weather. 28 May at 7:30 am left camp to make ascent via SW Ridge. Steep 45-55 degrees in sections of snow that was good underfoot; narrow ridge of 2 ft some places, 5 ft width with some loose rock sections also. Impossible to fix rope on route; "nice long classic route" (Frush). 

  Gaugiri right on Tibetan border and dominates area, high peak of a long southeast rRidge and great views of Tibet. Got to top at 1:20 pm and back 4:30-5:00 pm after an hour on top enjoying dramatic views including Dhaulagiri. No vegetation in region which is extremely arid, so local people don't go there to graze.


expid: GAUG02201
peakid: GAUG
year: 2002
route1: W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Makoto Nebuka
sponsor: Nebuka Makoto Yukiotoko Expedition to Gaugiri
bcdate: 2002-07-20
smtdate: 2002-07-30
termdate: 2002-07-30
termnote: Abandoned at 5750m due to Nebuka's weariness
othersmts: Climbed unnamed 6000m mountain
campsites: BC(20/07,5400m),xxx(30/07,5750m)
achievment: 1st ascent of unnamed mountain
routememo:
  Damodar Kunda
  High point on West Ridge.

  Left KTM on 7 July by car to Pokhara and then [flew] to Jomsom. Then to Tilicho Lake area to acclimatize and returned to Jomsom on 12 July. Trekked from Jomsom to Kagbeni, Chuksang, Ghami, Chhering, Tange, Yara, Luri Gampa, Damodar Kunda. Spent 10 days at Damodar Kunda search that area, (Nepal government's map gives altitude as 5400m, but Nebuka strongly "feels" its is 4600m). 

  Team consisted of just Nebuka and 23 years old Kami Sherpa. Nebuka went alone on 26th July to 6000m unnamed mountain on Tibet border north of Gaugiri; went to its summit via very easy North Ridge but were many crevasses to mountain's plateau top. Made a camp on 26 July at noon on glacier, started to top at 2:00 pm, on top at 5:55 pm, returned to camp at 7:30 pm; returned to BC 27th. Had made his first attempt on this mountain on 24th but without success and returned to BC same day. 28th rested at BC.

  29th tried to move east to Gaugiri but was confronted by sizeable Damodar Kunda River and gave up. 30th again went east to river and now crossed it on horse back early in the morning (6:00 am) and reached between 5700-5800m at 12:15 pm. Nebuka was already tired when he went to Gaugiri, so took Kami with him on this day's climb. Ridge was very easy but Nebuka too tired to continue and returned to BC same day trekked to Guma Thati. 31 July to Gora, 1 August to Chuksang, 2nd to Ghami, 3rd to Chhele, 4th to Jomsom, 5th by plane to Pokhara and 6th to KTM.


