# exped

expid: NGO202101
peakid: NGO2
year: 2002
route1: N Face of Ngojumba Kang
nation: USA
leaders: Michael Bearzi
sponsor: The Secret Face of Gyachung Kang
ascent1: 4th
approach: Ev BC->Rongbuk Glacier->back to Ev BC->Gyachung Glacier
bcdate: 2002-04-20
smtdate: 2002-05-09
smttime: 1730
termdate: 2002-05-17
termnote: Success on Ngojumba Kang II, then abandoned due to Bearzi's fatal fall
othersmts: Intended to climb Gyachung Kang
campsites: BC(20/04,5700m),ABC(02/05,6400m),Smt(09/05)
accidents: Bearzi illness and then fatal fall
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  BC  at 5700m on sided Glacier
  ABC at 6400m near pass
  High point at 7646m at summit of Ngozumba Kang II.

  After arriving BC, Bearzi had sinus infection, so Miller climbed two peaks (6150m and 6171m). Bearzi now intestinal problems from antibiotics, so both down to Everest BC to see a doctor. Got well and back to BC on 30 April. Made camp at Gyachung Kang - Rangto La. 3 May climbed nearby peaks point 6600m and Jiuda Ri. 4 May down to BC and rested on 5 and 6 May. 7 May went to acclimatize by climbing 6900m on Ngojumba Kang II. 8 May went up to 6900m and biv there. 9 May to summit of Ngojumba Kang II. Mike slowing down at end of day. Miller and Bearzi at about 5:30 pm turned down. At 7:00 pm Miller could see this biv from 7000m and then Bearzi, behind Miller fell on steep section and couldn't self-arrest and was bouncing off rocks, cart-wheeling and down very steep section of snow covered rocks. Total fall 600m to glacier. Difficult to descend by Miller, west to 100m below biv in dark and up to biv for night, not knowing what had happened to Bearzi but felt he must be dead. 10 May Miller down to ABC and slept there. At base of mountain could see Bearzi's body on glacier west of their route but did not go to it but concerned about his own safety over difficult terrain they had roped up on. Long day to ABC. Rested 11 May when tired. 12 May to Everest BC. Left Everest BC 17 May and returned to KTM 19th.

  45-55 degree snow ice slope on route with a few pitches up to 70 degrees slope.


expid: KANG02104
peakid: KANG
year: 2002
route1: SW Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Han Wang-Yong
sponsor: 2002 Korean Kangchenjunga Expedition
ascent1: 59th
bcdate: 2002-04-10
smtdate: 2002-05-13
smttime: 1525
termdate: 2002-05-16
campsites: BC(10/04,5600m),C1(16/04,6300m),C2(20/04,6800m),C3(03/05,7500m),C4(12/05,7900m),Smt(13/05)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Echo Himal
routememo:
  C4 at Great Shelf.

  13 May started for top at 1:00 am: summiter Gu Gun-Soo, but Gu stopped at 8300-8400m because very tired and down to C2 while others to top 3:25 pm in clear skies and little wind. Summiters also slept in C4. 14 May all down to BC.

  In summit bid: oxygen used sleeping in C4 by only Han, but other members used it only going to top and back to C4 (not sleeping in C4 on return from top). Dawa Wangchuk no oxygen at all. 4 Kazakhs summited on 13th also in amongst Koreans.


expid: KANG02101
peakid: KANG
year: 2002
route1: SW Face
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Zdenek Hruby
sponsor: P.R.E. Kangchenjunga 2002
ascent1: 60th,62nd
bcdate: 2002-04-09
smtdate: 2002-05-13
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2002-05-18
agency: Iceland Trekking
campsites:
  BC(09/04,5400m),C1(14/04,6150m),C1B(15/05,6100m),C2(21/04,6500m),C3(03/05,7100m),C3B(04/05,7400m),C4(12/05,7800m),Smt(13-14/05)

routememo:
  BC  at normal site just below start of glacier
  ABC at 1st site - 15 May 6100m (moved here)
  C2  at 1-1/2 km from C1
  C3  (left small tent here but then used C3 BC)
  C3B on Great Shelf

  Delayed getting to campsites because of frequent snowfall. Camps at C3, C3B, and C4 on Great Shelf where lot of crevasses. Hruby down from 8050m on 13 May in first attempt to top because incipient frostbite in toes and fingers, so waited in C4 for others. In in C4 small tent without sleeping bags; reached C4 12th 2:00 pm (was snowing heavily) and three left C4 at 1:00 am  on 13th. Minarik on top at 4:00 pm; Jaros turned  back about 100m above camp not feeling well. 14th Jaros tried again at 1:00 am and on top abut 12:00 noon. Minarik to C3 B 14th; down to BC night of 14th by Minarik and Hruby. Jaros at BC at 6:00 and pm of 15th.


expid: KANG02102
peakid: KANG
year: 2002
route1: SW Face
nation: Kazakhstan
leaders: Ervand Elyinski
sponsor: Kazakhstan Kangchenjunga Expedition 2002
ascent1: 58th,61st
bcdate: 2002-04-18
smtdate: 2002-05-13
smttime: 1510
termdate: 2002-05-24
campsites: BC(18/04,5400m),C1(23/04,6100m),C2(24/04,6500m),C3(02/05,7300m),C4(04/05,7700m),Smt(13-14/05)
accidents: Brodsky slightly frostbitten toes
achievment: 1st Kazakhstan ascent
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Yalung Glacier (near grave of Swiss)
  C2 at high C2
  C3 at low side of Great Shelf.

  13 May 1:00 am summit party left C4 for summit attempt in rare good weather: 4 members left together and on top 3:10 pm. Technically difficult on rocks before summit and fixed 150m rope but much of route had good snow under foot and not difficult. 2 down to C4 and 2 to C3 (not enough space in C4 for all 4 because second summit party in C4), in C3 9:30 pm. May 14th party of 3 members left C4 1:00 am and on top 11:30 am (faster than 1st party because 2nd party did not have to fix ropes, to decide exactly which line to take amongst the rocks). Slept in C4 at 5 pm. 

  Brodsky got slightly frostbitten toes very early in morning of 13th where it was extremely cold.


expid: KANG02103
peakid: KANG
year: 2002
route1: N Face
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: Kangchenjunga Expedition 2002
ascent1: 63rd
countries: Australia, Canada, Ecuador, Germany, UK
bcdate: 2002-04-18
smtdate: 2002-05-24
smttime: 1515
termdate: 2002-05-29
accidents: Bryant's tooth broke and he left the expedition 13 May; Grasswick fatal fall after summit success
agency: Everest Parivar
campsites:
  BC(18/04,5100m),C1(20/04,5650m),C1(21/04,5700m),C2(03/05,6400m),C3(05/05,6700m),C4(13/05,7200m),C5(17/05,7700m),C6(23/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)

routememo:
  BC at Pangpema
  C1 at small plateau
  C2 at bottom of ice wall
  C3 in big ice cave below rock band
  C4 on 20% snow slope
  C5 at base of huge boulder
  C6 at base of huge croissant of rock.

  C3 used very seldom, mainly by Sherpas fixing rope above.

  1st summit bid left C5 as there was no C6 yet: Vallejo, Berg, Mazur, Jangbu and Gyalu left C5 5:00 am, 18 May got to about 8000m, wind driven back to BC (Berg and Vallejo, others to C5).

  Next try on 20th 5:30 am from C5, Mazur and Jangbu to 8100m, wind strong and snowing.

  3rd assault on 24th from C6 by Findlay and Grasswick only: got to top at 3:15 pm and at 5:50 pm at 8400m crossing 20-degree snow slope, Findlay heard Grasswick call out behind him, looked over his shoulder, and saw Grasswick slowly sliding head first down snow-slope and over rock cliff and disappeared temporarily and found 200m, west of C6 dead by Findlay. Body left where it fell, badly battered. Then snow fell heavily next day and body covered by snow, Findlay slept in C6. 

  4th bid on 26 May at 4:30 am from C6 by Vallejo, Mesias and Berg. Reached almost 8300m, bad wind at 7:15 am and slept in C6; hoped for summit attempt next day but too much snow and climb finished.

  Bryant left expedition 13 May because of broken tooth and Lloyd left 23 May when weather bad enough he decided to stop and go home to work.


expid: LHOT02106
peakid: LHOT
year: 2002
route1: W Face
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Vladislav Terzyul
sponsor: Independent climbers on Lhotse
ascent1: 74th
countries: Russia
bcdate: 2002-04-12
smtdate: 2002-05-16
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2002-05-20
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),C1(17/04,6100m),C2(18/04,6400m),C3(25/04,7200m),C4(11/05,7800m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C4 at normal site.

  15 May again to C4 for summit push 7:00 am. 16th all 3 members left C4 for top and on top 2:00 pm and slept in C4. Classical route "difficult" because all fixed ropes, too many people on 19 May in BC.


expid: LHOT02101
peakid: LHOT
year: 2002
route1: W Face
nation: Iran
leaders: Eghbal Aflaki
sponsor: Iranian Lhotse Expedition
ascent1: 73rd,75th
bcdate: 2002-04-09
smtdate: 2002-05-16
smttime: 1140
termdate: 2002-05-19
campsites: BC(09/04,5350m),C1(15/04,6100m),C2(20/04,6500m),C3(05/05,7300m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(16-17/05)
achievment: 1st Iranians to Lhotse summit
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Everest BC
  C2 in West Cwm
  C3 on West Face
  C4 on snow of West face 100m below couloir.

  16 May 1:30 am summit party of 8 together left C2 for top and on top 11:40 am. Very steep ice, bad wind blowing snow strongly so took over 10 hours to get to top. 2 members to C3 and C2. This team arrived at C4 at 5:00 pm 15th, used oxygen sleeping, but all 8 used oxygen C4 to top and down only to C4.

  2nd Team left C4 at 2:15 am started for top. Oraz no oxygen at all, 6 other used oxygen only up from C4 to top and back to C4. Arrived top 12:15 with same problem of terrain and wind on 16th.

  Summit Sherpas:
    Mingma Dorje, June/July 1977, Makalu VDC, Manaslu, Xixa
    Chhang Dawa, July/Aug 1981, Makalu VDC, Makalu
    Lhakpa (aka Lhakpa Nuru), Khumjung, Makalu 13/5/01


expid: LHOT02102
peakid: LHOT
year: 2002
route1: W Face
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Guy Cotter
sponsor: Independent climber on Lhotse
bcdate: 2002-04-06
smtdate: 2002-04-16
termdate: 2002-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to brief intestinal infection and preoccupation with Adventure Consultants
campsites: BC(06/04,5350m),C1(15/04,6100m),C2(16/04,6400m),xxx(16/04,6400m)
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  High point at C2 in Western Cwm.

  Intestinal problem in C2 and climb finished. Had Everest team on mountain at same time and acted as its BC manager.


expid: LHOT02103
peakid: LHOT
year: 2002
route1: W Face
nation: Russia
leaders: Alexei Paskin
sponsor: Lhotse - St. Petersburg Expedition 2002
ascent1: 70th
countries: Estonia
bcdate: 2002-04-12
smtdate: 2002-05-14
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2002-05-18
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),C1(15/04,6100m),C2(21/04,6500m),C3(28/04,7200m),C4(13/05,7800m),Smt(14/05)
accidents: Pashkevitch developed heart trouble
achievment: 1st Estonian citizen to summit
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
routememo:
  C4 at near rock on West Face.

  13 May 9 members started for top from C3 to C4 and from C4 on 14th started 5:00 am all together (and with Georgian Tortaladze) and at 3:00 to 3:30 pm all 9 to top (with Tortladze). At start weather good, after 5-6 hours snow started falling, some places deep snow, some had ice. 900m fixed from C4, in some places already good old rope in place, fixed all of the couloir. All 9 members used oxygen from C4 to top and back to C4; not used for sleeping (had evacuated oxygen when back to C4 anyway). All down in BC 17 May. Pashkevitch to C3 only, then got heart trouble.


expid: LHOT02104
peakid: LHOT
year: 2002
route1: W Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Ken Noguchi
sponsor: Noguchi Lhotse-South Col Cleaning Expedition 20002
ascent1: 69th,71st
countries: Georgia, S Korea
bcdate: 2002-04-12
smtdate: 2002-05-14
smttime: 1415
termdate: 2002-05-19
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),C1(18/04,6100m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(12/05,7300m),C4(13/05,7800m),Smt(14,16/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Tortladze slept in C4 with 2 Russians. 14th 4:00 am started to top, carrying 1000m ropes to fix from C4 to top of couloir. Tortladze on top 2:15 and pm in very strong wind; slept in C4, which reached 11:00 pm. 

  3 Koreans members and 2 Sherpas left C4 for top 12:30 on 15th and on top 7:30 am 16th; and down to C2 some day 5:00-6:00 pm. 

  Noguchi went to South Col 14 May to remove rubbish; Takahata to C2; Yoshimura through Icefall only once and spent rest of his time in BC on expedition's communications. 

  Team collected nearly 3 tons of rubbish from S Col inlcuding 158 empty oxygen cylinders; some rubbish handed over to Sagarmatha Park Pollution Control Committee in Khumbu. Rest goes to Japan and Korea for display. 2 bodies (1 Sherpa and 1 Indian) moved from exposed sites on South Col and buried under rock piles.

  Oxygen: Tortladze used it sleeping in C5 13 May to top and down to about 8300m where it ran out; 15 May used sleeping in C4, to top and down to C4 by the three Koreans, Dawa Tenzing from C4 to top to C4 but not sleeping. Pemba Dorje none.


expid: LHOT02105
peakid: LHOT
year: 2002
route1: W Face
nation: UK
leaders: Henry Todd
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Everest and Lhotse Expedition
ascent1: 72nd,76th
countries: Australia, Hungary, USA
bcdate: 2002-04-08
smtdate: 2002-05-16
smttime: 0920
termdate: 2002-05-18
othersmts: Climbed Everest (EVER-021-39); Lock climbed Manaslu (MANA-021-05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
primid: EVER02139
campsites:
  BC(08/04,5350m),C1(15/04,6100m),C2(22/04,6400m),C3(26/04,7300m),C4(16/05,7800m),Smt(16-17/05); Lock (see notes)

routememo:
  Lock came to Lhotse from Manaslu directly: he used Todd's camps, food ropes and thus not really independent climber. 

  Lock rested in BC, 1 to 3 May then to C2 directly on 4 May using Henry Todd's ABC where Todd's staff provided food. 5 May to C3 again in Henry Todd's tent but own food. 6 May left gear at C2 and down to BC. Weather not right for summit attempt, so sat in BC reading books. 12 May to C2. 14th to C3, 15th to C4 and Todd's tent. Left C4 1:00 am 16 May (1 hour after Koreans), up couloir, steep but not seriously, to top up slightly loose rock, in slight wind which was very cold. On top 9:20 am, after Koreans but before all others. Down to C2 at 6:30 pm. 17 May to BC. Really tired coming down to C2 without any oxygen. Left BC on 18 May.

  Lock: BC(30/04),C2(04/05),C3(05/05),C4(15/05,7800m),Smt(16/05)
    

  Mellor and Mingma Nuru left C4 for summit on 17 May at 1:30 am, were on top at 11:00 am (Mellor) and 11:30 am (Mingma Nuru) and down to C3 same day, and then helped Eross of Todd's Everest team descend. 

  Morris got to C4 on 24th at 2:00 am, found tent had been stolen so down to BC same day.


expid: MAKA02104
peakid: MAKA
year: 2002
route1: W Pillar
nation: Spain
leaders: Juanito Oiarzabal
sponsor: Spanish TV Makalu Expedition
bcdate: 2002-04-09
smtdate: 2002-05-19
termdate: 2002-05-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to bad weather and high winds
campsites: BC(09/04,5350m),C1(13/04,5900m),C2(21/04,6400m),C3(14/05,7400m),xxx(19/05,7600m)
agency: Sea to Summit Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 5350m just above glacier junction
  C1 at 5900m on moraine just below W Pillar
  C2 at 6400m on W Pillar
  C3 at 7400m on W Pillar

  21 May down to C2, 22nd to C3 which found completely destroyed by winds and returned to C2. Bad weather with much snowfall and same days bad winds. Down to BC 24 May.

  6 staff members were killed in a helicopter crash after departing from base camp. The helicopter went missing and was never found.


expid: MAKA02101
peakid: MAKA
year: 2002
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Norbert Joos
sponsor: Swiss Makalu Expedition
ascent1: 75th
bcdate: 2002-04-11
smtdate: 2002-05-16
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2002-05-17
campsites: BC(11/04,5650m),C1(19/04,6550m),C2(25/04,7400m),C3(15/05,7600m),Smt(16/05)
agency: Himalayan High Country Treks
routememo:
  Swiss opened way to C1 and Spanish-Italian teams followed them. Joos knew route from 2001: direct line northeast side of rock in middle of Chago Glacier. Night of 25th horrible stormy night, worst Joos ever experienced. 26th down to BC. More than a week in BC with hell weather. Up again 4 May to C2 with plan to go to top from C2 5 May but bad decision on line to take on north side so down to BC on 5th in same day. Another week bad weather. 14th up from BC to C2. 15th from C2 to C3 and made camp there at 7600m at bottom of steep face on Tibetan side. 16th Reichen to top with Italian Silvio Mondinelli at 10:30 am having left C3 at 3:00 am. Joos on top at 12:30 pm in nice weather. Joos not full strength because not keeping down food and water. Both down to BC same day at 5:30 pm (Reichen) and 8:00 pm (Joos).

  Team enroute to BC held up at Tashigaon, the last village, by men with rifles but not in uniform claiming to be Maoists. Demanded Rs 10,000 and 1 camera from each person and gave receipts which trekking agent said were not genuine Maoist receipts, which are printed and rubber stamped.


expid: MAKA02102
peakid: MAKA
year: 2002
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Piotr Pustelnik
sponsor: International Makalu Expedition 2002
ascent1: 76th
countries: Italy, Portugal, Slovakia, USA
approach: One team by helicopter Lukla to BC; other 3 members Tumlingtar
bcdate: 2002-04-11
smtdate: 2002-05-16
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2002-05-23
campsites: BC(11/04,5600m),C1(17/04,6400m),C2(04/05,7300m),C3(15/05,7600m),Smt(16/05)
accidents: Fregona & Pawlowski suffered from bronchitis; Caughron found dead 50-60m below Makalu La
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Korean BC
  C1 below the seracs
  C2 at Makala La - left side of the col.

  Seven members started from C3 between 04:00-06:00 hours. Gablik [and Velez] reached summit at 15:00 hours and sent 20 minutes; returned to C3 at 20:00 hours without oxygen. Pustelnik reached summit at 13:30 hours, spent 30 minutes, returned to C3 at 18:00 hours. He used oxygen from C3 to summit and minutes and back to C3 at 23:00 hours. 

  Fregona reached up to 7900m due to bronchitis, got back to C3. Pawlowski also reached to 7900m and returned to C3 due to bronchitis. Sieger returned from 8000m due to exhaustion. Zaluski also returned from 8200m due to exhaustion.

  Two members Sieger and Zaluski made second attempt on May 18. Sieger returned back from just below 40m and Zaluski from 8200m due to bad weather. Miss Czerwinska said she did not try because the last camp was too low to attempt from for her. Pustelnik said that it was mistake to put C3 that low. They did not know that there is good place still above the existing C3.

  The other expedition: Basque, Italian before the Pustelnik team.

  Pustelnik will try next autumn south side of Manaslu.

  The team arrived KTM on May 23 and most the members will be leaving by 24th.

  Oxygen: 
    Gablik: not taken, not used
    Pustelnik: used from C3 to summit and while returning - finished 
    Velez: not taken, not used.

  Caughron:

  Pustelnik said Caughron may have died due to cold while bivouacing. Pustelnik and other members buried the body about 30 meters below place where the dead body of Caughron found.


  Norbert Joos, Swiss team leader - 22 May 02 

  While Joos and Reichen were climbing towards Makalu La (generally considered to be at 7400m), they met Caughron, who was exhausted but determined to reach Makalu La, his personal goal. The Swiss passed him and camped at Makalu La, spent the night there in a terrible storm, and while descending on April 26th, found Caughron dead at about 7200m.


expid: MAKA02103
peakid: MAKA
year: 2002
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Edurne Pasaban
sponsor: International Makalu Expedition
ascent1: 74th
countries: Italy
bcdate: 2002-04-12
smtdate: 2002-05-16
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2002-05-17
campsites: BC(12/04,5600m),C1(16/04,6100m),C2(03/05,7400m),C3(15/05,7700m),Smt(16/05)
accidents: Only Gutierrez incipient altitude sickness
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  BC 100m below icefall
  C1 half way up steep section below Makalu La
  C2 at Maklu La
  C3 on north side of NW Ridge (400m below).

  Route from BC to C1 direct and to east of rock barrier in middle of Chago Glacier. 17th April to BC to rest. Then bad weather period (morning wind, afternoon snowfall began and very cold). Left BC 21 April to C1. 22nd fixed to Makalu La's C2 and back to BC 23rd. Left BC again to C1 25th and bad weather and back to BC same day. Left BC 3 May to C1, 4th to C2, 6th to 7800m: too cold to summit so back to BC same day. 13 May to C1, 14th to C2, 15th made C3 at 7700m before on icefall, 16th across seracs to small plateau before couloir, up couloir and then to left to top via final section of NW Ridge. Left C3 at 2:30 am: all 6 members and Dorje ("Big Dorje" from Thamo). Valencia and Gutierrez turned back at 8000m, tired and incipient altitude sickness by Gutierrez and slept in C3 while other 4 members and Dorje to top 10:30 am and met Valencia and Gutierrez at 1:30 pm at point where had stopped. Summiters stayed on top 1-1/3 hours in light wind and clouds below the down to BC by all summiters except Pasaban to C3. 17 May Pasaban to BC and two due to weakness went to BC on 18th. Difficult mountain, impossible in wind. 

  Swiss team's Reichen on top with this team; Joos later.

  Enroute to BC before team reached Tashigaon, they were stopped by six Maoists who had pistols, rifles, grenades; were very young men or boys; they took Rs 5000 and a camera from each member.


expid: MANA02101
peakid: MANA
year: 2002
route1: NE Face
nation: USA
leaders: Tom Fitzsimmons
sponsor: 2002 American Manaslu Expedition
ascent1: 82nd
approach: Arughat-Samagaon-BC
bcdate: 2002-04-20
smtdate: 2002-05-13
smttime: 1110
termdate: 2002-05-17
campsites: BC(20/04,4780m),C1((24/04,5600m),C2(01/05,6600m),C3(12/05,7333m),Smt(13/05)
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 4780m usual camp site for NE Ridge expeditions
  C3 at 7333m on North Ridge.

  May 13 Devlin, Fitzsimmons, McGuffin, Percival and Sato started with two Sherpas at 03:00 from C3. Between 11:10-11:40 hours all five were on summit and stayed at least an hour, returned to C3 all members by 15:00 hours, two Sherpas to C2. Weather was very good, mild wind, clear and warm. 

  Nepali summiter Kusang Dorje Sherpa (summited Nanda Devi in 1993) and Dhanjit Tamang (summited Manaslu in 1996 Japanese). Other expedition that climbed at same time was Australian.

  The expedition returned to KTM by helicopter on May 19. The team leaves on May 24.

  Member Boettcher was very tired and gave up climbing.

  Sherpa summiters
    Kusang Dorji Sherpa (2014-4-3), mid-July 1958
    Dhanjit Tamang (2014-2-15), 30/5/54, Makalu-9, Sankhuwasabha
      Summit Manaslu Japanese expedition 28/9/96

  Non-Summit
    Kikami Sherpa (20 years in 2039), Makalu-9, Sankhuwasabha


expid: MANA02102
peakid: MANA
year: 2002
route1: NE Face
nation: Australia
leaders: Greg Mortimer
sponsor: Manaslu 2002 Australian Expedition
ascent1: 81st
bcdate: 2002-04-19
smtdate: 2002-05-13
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2002-05-19
campsites: BC(19/04,3600m),ABC(22/04,4700m),C1(27/04,5600m),C2(01/05,6500m),C3(12/05,7350m),Smt(13/05)
accidents: 2 Sherpas gastric problems; Robb slight frostbite and infected finger
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  4 members and 1 Sherpa left C3 for top 13 May between 4:00 and 5:00 am in constant cold wind (30 kms continuously), clear skies and fine snow. 10:00-11:00 Laursen and Mortimer and 12:00 (Robb) on top. Robb stayed in C3 with Nawang that night while other summiters in C2. All to ABC 15 May, BC 17 May.

  Sherpa summiter was called Nawang but name really is Pasang Nurbu, 39, Thami, 1st 8000er


expid: MANA02103
peakid: MANA
year: 2002
route1: NE Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Gorka Ripodas Perez
sponsor: Basque Manaslu Expedition
bcdate: 2002-04-28
smtdate: 2002-05-17
termdate: 2002-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 8050m due to bad winds and no time to wait
campsites: BC(28/04,5000m),C1(04/05,5800m),C2(07/05,6800m),C3(16/05,7470m),xxx(17/05,8050m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at above Samagaon
  High point at snow slope.

  17 May Segura and Beorlegi up from C3. Segura turned back at 7700m and Beorlegi 8050m. Segura's feet cold, Beorlegi's brain like drunken man's. Segura down to BC same day other to C3 to sleep.

  17 May Ripodas and Dominguez to C3, Mingma and Beorlegi still in C3. 18 May all down from C3 to BC and climb finished with bad winds continuing and no time left.


expid: MANA02104
peakid: MANA
year: 2002
route1: NE Face-N Plateau-Summit Plateau
nation: Norway
leaders: Sven Gangdal
sponsor: Manaslu 2002 Himalaya
ascent1: 78th w/Lock
approach: Gorkha->Arughat->Samagaon
bcdate: 2002-04-04
smtdate: 2002-04-21
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2002-04-24
campsites: BC(04/04,4800m),C1(07/04,5800m),C2(09/04,6800m),C3(20/04),Smt(21/04)
accidents: 2 Gangdals and Dawa Tshering slightly frostbitten toes; 2 Sherpas uninjured in fall
achievment: 1st Scandinavians summiters
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  BC at normal site above Samagaon
  C2 much higher than normal
  C3 at north plateau.

  Took long time to occupy C3 because Sirdar Dawa Tsering had bad fall from 7300m trying to fix route to C3 when fierce wind blew them off route. Ice screws came out from soft ice, took Kila Pemba with him, fell 150m down steep ice, but not hurt much and down clothing shredded; in evening very shaky; "a miracle" they survived. Arrived C3 4:00 pm 20 April; left C3 for top at 1:00 am on 21st in very cold and strong wind: 2 Norwegians, Andrew Lock of Australia, and Sherpas Kilu Pemba and Dawa Tshering on top 9:30 am, struggling in snow underfoot or hard ice with strong wind but "we equipped it." On top all together. Had fixed 200m ropes in new route up to North Peak to avoid icefall and avalanching seracs; no rope up to top to save time. Fixed the 2000m from C1 to C3. Down to C3 for night; arrived 3:00 pm after 1 hour on top. 

  Second twins to 8000m top together (Burgess twins on top Dhaulagiri May 81).

  Summit Sherpas: 
    Kilu Pemba, Beding, 21, 1st 8000er
    Dawa Tshering, Beding, 31, Cho Oyu X4, Everest X3, Broad Peak


expid: MANA02105
peakid: MANA
year: 2002
route1: NE Face (Norwegian rte)
nation: Australia
leaders: Andrew Lock
sponsor: Independent team on Focus
ascent1: 78th w/Nor
countries: Macedonia
bcdate: 2002-03-27
smtdate: 2002-04-21
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2002-04-23
othersmts: Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-021-05)
campsites: BC(27-28/03,4800m),C1(04/04,5800m),C2(09/04,6800m),C3(20/04,7500m),Smt(21/04)
accidents: Aleksov had kidney problem (went to C1 only once)
achievment: 1st Australian summiter
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C2 with Norwegians, much higher than normal sites
  C3 at 7500m in Norwegians tent on north plateau.

  Aleksov did almost no climbing (as above). Lock climbed with Norwegian team, going to C2 wth them on 9 April and staying with them all the way to summit on 21 April. Had his own tent at C2 but was invited by Norwegians to stay in their tent on 20 April for summit push next day; it was a very crowded tent that night. In descent got lost for 2 hours descending to C2 by a shortcut on 21st but finally found camp well after dark (had head lamp). 23rd BC to Samagaon for helicopter to KTM so he could rush over to climb Lhotse on Henry Todd's permit by flight to Lukla on 30 April.


expid: MANA02106
peakid: MANA
year: 2002
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Hirofumi Konishi
sponsor: Hirofumi Konishi Manaslu Expedition
bcdate: 2002-04-14
smtdate: 2002-05-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to bad weather and Konishi earlier stomach problem
campsites: BC(14/05,4800m),C1(17/04,5800m),C2(22/04,6400m),C3(25/04,6900m),C4(29/05,7500m),xxx(30/05,7600m)
agency: Nepal Himal
routememo:
  High point on NE Ridge.

  27 April down to BC, Konishi and his Sherpa fell 70m at 6850m. Konishi's shoulder injured, but not badly, so down all the way to Samagaon on 30th for week's rest and full recovery.

  Back to BC 8 May. 9th to C1, 10th to C2, 11th to C3. In C3 Konishi stomach problem and 12th down to BC. 15 May start of long period of bad weather with rain at BC and snow above. 18 May to C2 direct, 19th to C3 and waited there 3 days in more bad weather, with much snow falling. 22nd to C1 and 23rd to BC (not to BC 22nd because snow too deep). 27th up to C2, 28th to C3, 29th to C4. Above C4 strong wind, so up only 100m and back to C4. 31st again strong wind and only to 7600m again (1 hour's climb above C4), so down to C2 and climb finished. 

  9-12 May Konishi stomach problem kept Konishi from making summit bid at time other teams going for it.


expid: MANA02107
peakid: MANA
year: 2002
route1: NE Face-N Col
nation: Italy
leaders: Renzo Corona, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner
sponsor: Manaslu Expedition 2002
ascent1: 80th
countries: Austria
approach: Bus to Gorkha->Khanchook->Arughat->Jagat->Samagaon
bcdate: 2002-04-17
smtdate: 2002-05-10
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2002-05-15
campsites: BC(17/04,4700m),C1(20/04,5580m),C2(24/04,6680m),C3(09/05,7400m),Smt(10/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  May 10 both started from C3 at 00:30 hours with Sherpa. Miss Kaltenbrunner reached summit at 08:00 and stayed on summit abut two hours then descended to C2 at 20:00 hours. Corona reached summit at 10:00 hours and stayed about 30 min. Back to C3 with Sherpa and spent night. He does not remember exact time of reaching C3. It may be 16:00 hours or 17:00 hours.

  Weather was very good, sunny, mild wind. The members returned to KTM on May 22 from Besisahar and probably leave on May 24.

  Summit Sherpa: 
    Lhakpa Ongyal, 36, Tumlingtar, Makalu VDC, Makalu, 13/5/01


expid: MANA02108
peakid: MANA
year: 2002
route1: NE Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Ralf Dujmovits
sponsor: Amical Alpin Manaslu Expedition 2002
ascent1: 79th
countries: Austria, Chile, Pakistan, Switzerland
bcdate: 2002-04-17
smtdate: 2002-05-10
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2002-05-20
campsites: BC(17/04,4750m),C1(20/04,5550m),C2(02/05,6600m),C3(09/05,7400m),Smt(10/05)
accidents: Mrs Hub cerebral edema in C3; Mueller frostbitten fingers (will heal)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site.

  Put C1 and C2 far apart no space for C4 ,so placed camp higher than normal. All members, Pakistani and 2 Sherpas in C3 for summit push. Left C3: all except Cartensen and Hub up towards top. Hub down at 7700m, Dujmovits at 7600m, Haeusler at 7800m, Oyarzun at 7600m, Bogenschuetz at 7710m, Pakistani at 7600m because of strong wind except Rossner who lost a piece of gear. Dujmovits worried about Hub's health. 

  Successful ones to top 7:30-10:00 am; only others on top in between members of this team; to C2 to sleep.

  Bogenschuetz fell 200m when was half way down to C3 from summit, twisted his ankle and cut his forehead and left expedition. 20 May by helicopter; Mrs Hub developed cerebral edema in C3 but recovered; Mueller got 4 frostbitten fingers on right hand but will heal.


expid: NUPE02101
peakid: NUPE
year: 2002
route1: S Face-E Smt I
nation: USA
leaders: Steve House
sponsor: International Nuptse South Face 2002
countries: Canada, Slovenia
bcdate: 2002-04-14
smtdate: 2002-05-18
termdate: 2002-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to high winds
campsites: BC(14/04,5160m),Biv1(14/05,5900m),Biv2(16/05,6400m),Biv3(17/05,7200m),xxx(18/05,7300m)
accidents: Koch injured knee and left about 10 May
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC on west side of Lhotse Nuptse Glacier east of Chhukung Peak
  High point at high reaches of a glacier.

  After arrival, did acclimatization climbs in area to 6800m on Bonington 1961 route. 15 May Blanchard, House and Prezelj started 3:30 am attempt on their Nuptse route, which had never been attempted before with Nuptse East I as their goal, 7804m high. 15 May steep wall 60-degree avalanche of hard climbing on mostly rock with same snow cover; biv at about 5900m, a pitch below where steepness eased off; 6:00 pm arrive at Biv1. 16th first day that weather was really nice, but made route harder because made snow soft; deep soft snow; 40 degree slope now East Face of Bonington route; biv at 6400m at 6:00 pm, having started at 8:00 am. 17th climbed area of ridge having flattened out to slope 30 degrees; snow better because wind had scoured it; started at 8:00 am and biv at 7200m at 2:00 pm where there was good safe place to put biv without much digging. 18th Blanchard built up a camp while House and Prezelj to scout where to take next and it looked reasonable but cold and windy. Stayed night at 18th Biv hoping to go up on 19th but weather not good (wind, snow and cold) and forecast was not favourable. Could have stayed another day with food and fuel they had, but 19th was a lot worse than 18th, so down to BC on 19th, down their route to Bonington route and down it, it was a more straightforward line. Climb finished.


expid: PUMO02101
peakid: PUMO
year: 2002
route1: N Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Erhard Loretan
sponsor: Swiss Pumori Expedition
ascent1: 138,139
countries: Italy
approach: By road KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
bcdate: 2002-04-12
smtdate: 2002-05-07
smttime: 1300
campsites: BC(12/04,5200m),ABC(15/04,5560m),C1(20/04,5700m),C2(25/04,6050m),C3(09/05,6700m),Smt(07,10/05)
achievment: 1st attempt by N Ridge
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at Rongbuk Glacier at Chinese Ev BC
  ABC at 5560m at Everest ABC site.
  C1  at 5700m lower part of Pumori Glacier on its eastern side
  C2  at 6050m North Ridge
  C3  at 6700m North Ridge.

  Fixed ropes 700m on rocky part from C2 to almost 7000m where steep and unstable rock. Reoccupied C2 on 2 May after period of bad weather (snowing every afternoon). 7 May 0:30 hours Loretan and Oudin started for top in good weather to begin with, but clouded over around 7:00 am; reached top at 1:00 pm in good weather - long, steep and required care because of powder snow above rocky part (all route above C2 to top). 

  8 May Balmelli, Bignasca, De Luigi and Nottaris's up from C2 to join Loretan in C3 and all 5 to summit together in windy weather; all slept in C2. 11 May to ABC.


expid: PUMO02102
peakid: PUMO
year: 2002
route1: SE Face
nation: USA
leaders: Matt Fioretti
sponsor: American Pumori Expedition 2002
countries: UK
bcdate: 2002-04-10
smtdate: 2002-04-20
termdate: 2002-05-02
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to snowfalls and avalanche danger
campsites: BC(10/04,5270m),ABC(14/04,5420m),C1(18/04,5640m),xxx(20/04,5900m)
accidents: Carter shoulder pains
agency: Adventure Karnali
routememo:
  BC  at 5200m at above Gorak Shep near a small lake
  ABC at 5420m at bottom of SE Face
  C1  at 5640m on South Face at top rib
  Highpoint at 5900m on SE Face.

  Originally intended to climb SW Ridge, but when got to mountain, saw conditions were good on SE Ridge so made no attempt via SW Ridge. C1 safe site on rock. Carried to 5900m and made cache here, below C2 side, probably 150m below C2 site. Now started snowing every evening; slept at C1 night. On morning of 21 April, Carter had extreme pain in both shoulders so all down to BC assisting him. Stayed BC while snow falling daily and then avalanche danger too great to move up since up above 18,500 ft 14 inches or more new snow. Yaks coming 2nd May, so decided 30 April to make no further attempt to climb.


expid: PUMO02103
peakid: PUMO
year: 2002
route1: S Face-E Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Pierre Griscelli
sponsor: Corsican Pumori Expedition
ascent1: 137
countries: Portugal
bcdate: 2002-03-21
smtdate: 2002-04-06
smttime: 1350
termdate: 2002-04-07
campsites: BC(21/03,5300m),C1(29/03,5500m),C2(05/04,6350m),C3(06/04,6500m),Smt(06/04)
accidents: Leader mildly sick when reached BC; nothing else
achievment: 1st Portuguese summiter
agency: Edelweiss Trekking
routememo:
  BC near lake above Gorak Shep
  C1 at SE Face
  C2 at below East Col
  C3 on Col.

  Three non-summiting members went only to 6100m (on 27th and 29th March) and then abandoned their attempt to climb higher. They had started later then the others because of Griscelli's respiratory illness, which delayed them. There they decided it was too dangerous from falling seracs to stay longer. 

  The three summiters were "very lucky" and got to top without harm, but while they were high on the East Ridge, a fairly big fall of seracs from lower on the ridge came down the route. Perrier brothers were extremely exhausted in their descent through much new snow.

  Garcia: in 2 weeks at mountain no avalanches on route but were to left and right. Don't know about falling seracs mentioned by Rambaud. Difficult to find safe route between huge crevasse on right and danger from hanging seracs from 5800m to 6380m. Summiters left BC at midnight of 5 April and 12 hours later were in C2; 6 April left C2 at 6:30 am and reached summit after surmounting icefall and skirting big crevasses or crossing them somehow. On top at 1:50 pm; down to C2 to sleep. 7th to BC and Pheriche same day. Were very tired on 6th and 7th, but knew Yaks had been ordered for 7th so kept going. Garcia and Perrier brothers never slept in C1, just used it to deposit gear.


expid: THAM02101
peakid: THAM
year: 2002
route1: N Face (Spanish 1999 rte)
nation: Japan
leaders: Kenji Onodera
sponsor: Thamserku Expedition 2002
bcdate: 2002-04-11
smtdate: 2002-05-02
termdate: 2002-05-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to members not fast enough where no biv possible
campsites: BC(11/04,3900m),ABC(17/04,5100m),ABC2(29/04,5500m),Biv(01/05,6000m),xxx(02/05,6300m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at Phunki Drangka below Phunki Glacier
  ABC on North Face 
  1 biv on North Face
  High point on North Face.

  First ABC pitched at 5100m 17 April and down to BC 18th. 2 men 20th to ABC and 21st tried to attack summit, got to 5800m, felt altitude with "little headache" and down to BC 22nd. 26 April up to ABC which had been broken by avalanche and back to BC same day. 28th night up to make another ABC. 29th morning made new ABC at 5500m. 30th 7:00 pm up from ABC (both members) and biv at 6000m at 3:15 pm on 1 May. 2 May up at 6:00 am and reached 6300m at 8:00 pm. Weather getting bad with snowfalling and many small avalanches of snow and could find no safe biv site, so down to ABC, arriving 3rd 6:00 am. Climb finished: too exhausted and no time left for another attempt. Reached BC 4th and left BC 5th to trek to Kalapattar. "This route needs speed, but we don't have enough speed." Like to try SWest Face after 2 years. North Face "technically not so difficult but requires speed." Face all snow and hard ice with no biv site above 6000m. Climbed in pure alpine style.


expid: TKPO02102
peakid: TKPO
year: 2002
route1: N Pillar-NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Herve Qualizza
sponsor: Tengkangpoche French Alpine Club Expedition 2002
bcdate: 2002-04-10
smtdate: 2002-04-23
termdate: 2002-04-25
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to difficulty of route
campsites: BC(10/04,4300m),Biv1(18/04,5200m),Biv2(22/04,5900m),xxx(23/04,6100m)
achievment: 1st attempt (1 of 2)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Tengpo village
  High point at NE Face.

  Weather problems with every afternoon snow. Climbed from midnight to 11:00 am each day till bad weather set in; climbed like this during five days. Fixed rope to 1st biv, down for rest and up fixing more rope above 1st biv. Above 1st biv only 5 climbers left active. Left pillar for face because pillar too complicated for so many people; face also difficult mixed snow and rock. Pillar would required 12 more days. In 2nd biv bad weather, snowed all night and next day foggy, following day after snowed all day. Down from high point directly to BC on 23rd.


expid: TKPO02101
peakid: TKPO
year: 2002
route1: S Ridge (to 5900m)
route2: E Ridge (to 5900m)
nation: France
leaders: Reynold Bourdier
sponsor: Tengkangpoche French Alpine Club Expedition 2002
countries: Belgium
approach: Ghat->Phakting->Morala->Lumding->Kharta
bcdate: 2002-04-12
smtdate: 2002-04-17
termdate: 2002-04-24
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to route difficult
campsites: SRidgeBC(12/04,5150m),xxx.SRidge(17/04,5900m);ERidgeC1(20/04,5600m),xxx.ERidge(20/04,5900m)
accidents: Only Favereux, who got edema in legs and head (left expedition 20 Apr)
achievment: 1st attempt (1 of 2)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC south of Lunding Tsho  
  High point at East Ridge.

  From BC explored South Ridge to 5900m up rock at first (3 pitches), there 2 snow pitches and found route above "too scary" with too many seracs and young climbers not experienced enough. Fixed some rope on South Ridge by Bourdier. Soureillat to 5900m and then gave up this line and shifted to East Ridge. Went up West side of lake to camp at 5600m on small ridge and on to small peak at 5900m; all of team except Graftiaux and Favier who stayed with her in C1; here already route too difficult for her. Snowfall everyday. From C1 down to BC on 21 and 22 April since route above also too difficult for women members. Bourdier would like to return to South Ridge with small group of experienced climbers and go very fast because of seracs and need one biv only and up in daytime, down at night.


expid: SARI02201
peakid: SARI
year: 2002
route1: N Ridge from N
nation: Japan
leaders: Tamotsu Ohnishi
sponsor: Osaka Alpine Club West Bengal Nepal Expedition 2002 Summer
approach: E from Chuksang & Tange->SE to Nakkali Damodar Kunda
bcdate: 2002-07-12
smtdate: 2002-07-17
termdate: 2002-07-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6068m due to white-out conditions
othersmts: Attempted Arniko Chuli (ARCH-022-01)
campsites: BC(12/07,5375m),C1(14/07,5700m),xxx(17/07,6068m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
primid: ARNK02201
routememo:
  Expedition flew KTM-Pokhara-Jomsom and arrived Jomsom 28 June. They then split into two teams, one to climb Arniko Chuli and the other for Saribung.

  Saribung team consisted of Okuda and Mrs Kobayashi as climbers with Tul Bahadur Tamang accompanying them to base camp but to do no climbing. They left Jomsom on 29 June. Leader Ohnishi accompanied the Arniko Chuli team.

  Approach: north and east via Chuksang (Chhusang), Tange and Yara villages, then southeast via Luri Gompa, Guma Thati to Nakkali Damodar Kunda base camp at 5375m north-northeast of the mountain. Arrived at base camp on 12 July.

  Climb: on 14 July moved to high camp at 5700m south of base. On 17th July Okuda and Mrs Kobayashi attempted to climb Saribung and went up northwest snow slope; reached col at 6068m (according to GPS - Nepalese government's map gives altitude as 6042m), from where their route ascended North Ridge. But now they were in a white-out, so instead of climbing further, they turned around and retreated all the way to base camp the same day. Saribung climb was now abandoned.

  Trek away from base camp: 18 July this team plus Arniko Chuli team left base camp on 18 July to returned to Jomsom. Trekked via Yara, Tange, Chuksang (Chhusang). Reached Jomsom 22 July.

  Note: Official government altitudes for the two mountains are 6039m for Arniko Chuli and 6346m for Saribung. Ohnishi's GPS measurements gave altitudes of 6034m and 6328m, respectively.

  Saribung attempt by Mrs Kobayashi and Okuda July 17 to Col at 6068m then white-out and descended. Were on northwest slope. From Col would have ascended North Ridge. Tul Bahadur Tamang went with them to BC but did no climbing.


expid: GAN101301
peakid: GAN1
year: 2001
route1: NE Spur-E Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kinichi Yamamori
sponsor: Himalayan Association of Japan Yangra Kangri Expedition
approach: Lhasa->Kiyrong Zangbo River->BC
bcdate: 2001-09-24
smtdate: 2001-10-26
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to route difficulty and lack of strong manpower
campsites: BC(24/09,3350m),C1.ABC(4400m),C2(30/09,5350m),C3(18/10,6000m),C4(24/10,6860m),xxx(26/10,6900m)
achievment: 1st attempt from north side
agency: None
routememo:
  BC near Land Phu
  C1 = ABC at Lachung Co lake
  C2 below rock wall
  C3 on plateau 
  C4 on NE Spur
  High point on East Ridge.

  Himalayan Journal 2002, page 203-6

  During September a mature eight member Japanese expedition comprising Kinichi Yamamori (57, leader), Yoshihide Higami (57, deputy leader), Hideki Sato (53, climbing leader), Seiko Mantoku (47), Yasuji Moriyama (51), Yasuo Ota (48), Kunihiko Sato (48) and Masakatsu Tamura (59) made the first ever attempt on 7429m Ganesh from Tibet. The highest summit in the Ganesh group lies on Nepal-Tibet border and is referred to in Tibet by its local name, Yangri Kangri. The peak has only been climbed once. On the 24th October 1955 Eric Guachet, Claude Kogan and Raymond Lambert from Franco Swiss expedition reached the summit via the South East Face from the Sang Jing Glacier in Nepal. Tragically the young Guachet slipped on the descent and fall to his death.

  The Japanese project to climb Yangra Kangri from the north started with an invitation from Tibet Mountaineering Association, proposing a joint expedition with the Himalayan Association of Japan (this partnership had successfully made the first ascent of 7367m Labuche Kang in 1987). Yamamori organized a reconnaissance in September 1996, but lack of time meant that he was not able to make much progress on a possible northern approach and instead continued down the Kyirong Zangbo River inspect a route from the south via the Sang Jing Glacier. Poor weather prevented any view of the mountain.

  A second expedition in October 1998 found a route from Ruka (3050m) on the Kyirong Zangbo towards the foot of the North East Spur of the mountain. However, members were unable to reach the Pawa Glacier on the north side of the peak due to heavy undergrowth and marshy terrain.

  The 2001 exepedition built a bridge over the Ramu River opposite the base of the North East Spur and established BC at 3350m in the forest below the peak. By late September they had made Camp I at 4400m beside a lake named Lachang Co close to the start of the North East Spur. This spur is a branch of the East Ridge and itself splits into two branches at about 6100m. The Japanese started climbing on the 30th, aiming for the easterly branch of the spur. Camp 2 (5350m) was established below a glass-shaped rock wall, where the route became difficult. Two pitches on the rock wall, followed by a thin and narrow snow ridge, led to an icefall. After climbing the latter, C3 was established on the plateau above at 6000m.

  From there the climbers progressed up a huge and crevassed snow face towards the East Ridge. A shortage of ropes meant that in order to extend the route they had to remove those that had been fixed lower down. On the 24th October they placed C4 at 6860m just below the ridge. Four members stayed there on the 26th climbed up the East Ridge without ropes or pitons (which had all been used below) until they were forced to give up at 6900m. No high altitude porters were used above C1.


expid: NAUL54101
peakid: NAUL
year: 1954
route1: N Side
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Edmund Hillary
sponsor: New Zealand Alpine Club Barun Valley Expedition
ascent1: 1st
smtdate: 1954-06-08
campsites: Smt(08/06)
primid: BARU54101
othersmts:
  Climbed Baruntse (BARU-541-01), Pethangtse (PETH-541-01), Pethangtse East (PTHE-541-01) and Chago (CHAG-541-01) (all 1st ascents); attempted attempted Cho Polu (CHOP-541-01) and Makalu II (MAK2-541-01); recon Makalu (MAKA-541-02)

routememo:
  The source of this information is New Zealand Alpine Journal as quoted by George Lowe (pg 60-61) in East of Everest written by Edmund Hillary and George Lowe.


expid: CHEK55101
peakid: CHEK
year: 1955
route1: NW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Alfred Gregory
sponsor: Merseyside Himalayan Expedition 1955
approach: Rolwaling Valley->Manlung La
smtdate: 1955-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6180m due to huge crevasse below summit
campsites: xxx(27-28/05,6180m)
routememo: Reached 80m below summit as route blocked by huge crevasse below summit.
primid: RAMD55101
othersmts:
  Climbed Panaio Toupa (PANT-551-01), Parchamo (PARC-551-01), Pimu (PIMU-551-01), Ramdung (RAMD-551-01), Dingjung Ri (DING-551-01), Ripimo Shar (RIPI-551-01), Dapladadangdio and Singkar; attempted Pangbuk Ri (PANG-551-01); recon Gaurishankar (GAUR-551-01


expid: CHAG54101
peakid: CHAG
year: 1954
route1: NW Ridge from W
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Edmund Hillary
sponsor: New Zealand Alpine Club Barun Valley Expedition
ascent1: 1st
countries: UK
smtdate: 1954-05-29
smttime: 1215
campsites: BC(Apr),Smt(29/05)
primid: BARU54101
othersmts:
  Climbed Baruntse (BARU-541-01), Pethangtse (PETH-541-01), Pethangtse East (PTHE-541-01) and Nau Lekh (NAUL-541-01) (all 1st ascents); attempted Cho Polu (CHOP-541-01) and Makalu II (MAK2-541-01); recon Makalu (MAKA-541-02)


expid: ANN271101
peakid: ANN2
year: 1971
route1: N Face
route2: W Ridge from N (to 7800m)
nation: Japan
leaders: Mitsuaki Nishigori
sponsor: Shinshu University Alpine Club
approach: Marshyangdi->Pisang->Salatang Khola
bcdate: 1971-03-26
smtdate: 1971-05-04
termdate: 1971-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to bad weather, exhaustion and fatal accident
accidents: Sato killed by fall on descent from summit bid with Girme Dorje
campsites:
  BC(26/03,3500m),C1(20/03,4500m),C2(03/04,5200m),C3(28/04,6200m),C4(01/05,6600m),C5(7300m),xxx(04/05,7800m)


expid: LHOT87101
peakid: LHOT
year: 1987
route1: SE Ridge of Lhotse Shar
route2: S Face (never attempted)
nation: France
leaders: Eric Escoffier
sponsor: French-Swiss Expedition to Lhotse
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 1987-04-10
smtdate: 1987-04-16
termdate: 1987-04-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m on Lhotse Shar due to snowfall and boredom
othersmts: Attempted Island Peak and Lhotse Shar (to 6800m) (for acclimatization)
campsites: BC(10/04,5100m),xxx(16/04,6800m)
accidents: None
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  High point on SE Ridge of Lhotse Shar.

  Acclimatized on Island peak and on Lhotse Shar SE Ridge at 6800m on 16th April. Then back to BC to wait good weather. On 10th face was very good, very dry following one week of winds, but after 13th snow began falling and fell everyday. Never went onto face: snow every afternoon and avalanching on face every morning. 17 days at BC was enough. Wanted to try Polish route on right of face.


expid: PK4100101
peakid: PK41
year: 2000
route1: W Face-NW Ridge
nation: Finland
leaders: Petri Kaipiainen
sponsor: Finnish-American expedition to Peak 41 in Spring 2000
countries: USA
approach: Lukla->Tangnag->Mera La
bcdate: 2000-04-27
smtdate: 2000-05-02
termdate: 2000-05-04
termnote: Abandoned at 5280m due to dangerous icefall and progress too slow
campsites: BC(27/04,4800m),C1(02/05,5280m),xxx(02/05,5280m)
accidents: Soles respiratory infection
agency: None
routememo:
  BC on moraine of Hinku Shar Glacier, 13 kms north of Mera La trek
  C1 below southern icefall
  High point at C1.

  Petra Kaipiainen (extract from www.kuvalehdet.fi/realmera):

  Starting from Lukla mountain airfield in Khumbu, Nepal, it took one week to reach Real Mera basecamp at the terminal moraines of Khare glacier. Our sirdar being nervous about our unprecedented climb and (base)camping away from other dozen or so (False) Mera expeditions told all other groups that we were glaciologists doing research. 

  After carrying heavy loads of climbing gear and fixed ropes to the foot of the 500m high icefall the attempt at the mountain began. 

  The east and north faces of Mera are impossibly steep and prone to avalanches, the south ridge resembles an edge of a dented knife. This leaves only the icefall and then the west face and the northwest ridge, our chosen main route. 

  The big problem was the icefall that could not be bypassed. The broken mess of crevasses and seracs flowed around a huge nunatak in two parts and was over 500 meters high, almost the size of notorious Khumbu icefall, but actually steeper!

  Our expedition had lost a few days to heavy snowfall and sickness meaning a few unplanned rest days. For the summit attempt only five days were left. 

  All, except the weather, looked good from the start. Intensive climbing and routefinding up the broken and dangerous glacier just ate up the hours. Only when we were forced to camp among the teetering seracs we realized how slow we actually were: 180 vertical meters in a day! 

  After cutting two platforms for the tents in the ice we settled for the night. No appetite, just mugfulls of tea and thin soup to replenish lost fluids. At 5200-meter height the semi-vacuum dries the body fast. 

  The night was spent listening the cracking and groaning of the icefall, ice avalanches falling down on both sides. Some mental calculations were made. 

  The route through the icefall was proving to be too slow and too dangerous. A desicion was made to turn back and spend the rest of the time reconnoitering the east and north sides of the mountain. 

  Unfortunatelly the weather turned nasty right after we left the mountain, constant low clouds and heavy snowfall made views nonexistant. Clyde and Fred were not able even to summit False Mera to take fresh photos. They did get across Amphu Labtsa, but did not see the mountain at all along the way. 

  Mera remains to be unclimbed, but now it was well-documented and possible routes accurately positioned with Benefon Esc! GPS/GSM reciever and photographed as much as possible for the benefit of future climbers. You can also read the internet reports that we sent during the expedition. 

  You are welcome to try our mountain, the only legally climbable virgin peak in Khumbu!


expid: AMAD02301
peakid: AMAD
year: 2002
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Siegfried Wasserbauer
sponsor: Wasserbauer Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 410,411
bcdate: 2002-11-13
smtdate: 2002-11-17
termdate: 2002-11-20
othersmts: Climbed Chhukung Ri and Island Peak
campsites: BC(13/11,4600m),C1(14/11,5800m),C2(17/11,6150m),Smt(17-18/11)
agency: Sherpa & Swiss Adventures
routememo:
  BC same as others.

  First to Chhukung Ri summit by all 5 members on 8 Nov and then to Island Peak summit on 10 Nov by all except Peboeck.

  Both Ama Dablam summit parties climbed from C1 to top and down to C2 to sleep. Were well acclimatized (except Peboeck who did not go above C1 because of headache from altitude). No one else on top on 17th, one American on top before Austrians on 18th.


expid: AMAD02302
peakid: AMAD
year: 2002
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Sepp Bierbaumer
sponsor: Jubilee Expedition 2002 to Ama Dablam
ascent1: 394,398
bcdate: 2002-11-04
smtdate: 2002-11-07
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2002-11-13
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (2 Nov by Bierbaumer, Patterer, Schluga, Schwangz)
campsites: BC(04/11,4600m),C1(06/11,5850m),C3(07/11,6400m),Smt(07-08/11)
accidents: Nothing serious
agency: Khumbu Himalayan Trekking
routememo:
  7 Nov Bierbaumer, Schwarz and Pemba Gyalzen left C1 at 6:15 am for top. Schwarz moved more slowly than other 2. Bierbaumer and Pemba Gyalzen set up C3 at 10:00 am and then went on to summit at 1 pm and members in C3, Sherpa down to BC with bad cough). Schwarz reached top at 4:00 pm after 1 hour rest in C3; he found climb not difficult since so many ropes were fixed, but he was in no hurry. 

  8 Nov Patterer on top at 1:15 pm, Wohlgemuth at 3:15 pm.

  2 original members, Emanuel Koschat and Alfred Wiesner, never reached BC because they got sick. 


expid: AMAD02303
peakid: AMAD
year: 2002
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Frederic Buet
sponsor: French Ama Dablam Expedition 2002
ascent1: 379,380
countries: Switzerland
approach: Lukla->Namche->Kalapattar->Dingboche
bcdate: 2002-10-11
smtdate: 2002-10-20
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2002-10-24
campsites: BC(11/10,4600m),ABC(13/10,5400m),C1(15/10,5800m),C2(18/10,6000m),C3(19/10,6300m),Smt(20-21/10)
agency: Nomad Expeditions
routememo:
  Oct 20: C1 started at 05:00, summit at 13:00, spent nearly one hour, returned to C2 17:00.

  Oct 21: Marullaz and Pauthier left C1 at 05:00, summit at 13:00, stayed about 15 mins, to C1 at 17:00 hours. Boehler, Dides and Figliolini left C3 at 08:30, summit at 12:30, stayed about 20 mins, to C1 17:00 hours.

  Kanony stayed at C3 due to cold and tiredness.

accidents:
  Dides frostbite left toe and Boehler both toes (they were flown out on helicopter on 23rd and left Nepal on 25th)


expid: AMAD02304
peakid: AMAD
year: 2002
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Stefan Jungmann
sponsor: Ama Dablam Expedition 2002
ascent1: 401,403
bcdate: 2002-11-01
smtdate: 2002-11-10
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2002-11-14
campsites: BC(01/11,4450m),C1(06/11,5900m),C2(12/11,6200m),Smt(10-11/11)
agency: Himalayan Garden Treks
routememo:
  Snow conditions very good and fine weather. 

  Jungmann left C1 at 4:30 am on 10 Nov and top at 10:00 am and BC 5:00 pm.

  Krathaler left C1 at 4:00 am on 11 Nov and on top at 2:00 pm and C2 5:30 pm.

  Astner in C2 13 Nov for summit bid but snowfall sent him back down to BC. Walser went to 6200m but did not sleep there and went no higher.


expid: AMAD02305
peakid: AMAD
year: 2002
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Markus Raich
sponsor: Austrian Salzkammergut Expedition to Ama Dablam
ascent1: 383
countries: Germany
bcdate: 2002-10-19
smtdate: 2002-10-23
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2002-10-24
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East (all members and 2 Sherpas on Oct 16)
campsites: BC(19/10,4600m),C1(21/10,5700m),C3(22/10,6250m),Smt(23/10)
agency: Sherpa & Swiss Adventures
routememo:
  On 23rd Oct 4 members and Ang Dorje left C3 at 8:45-9:00 am, but wind strong and Huetter and Pilz climbed too slowly so turned back to BC. Standacher kept on up to 50m below top and very strong wind made him also descend to BC. Goettfrier much faster than they and went to top with Ang Dorje at about 12:00 noon.

  Remaining 3 members got stomach trouble in C3 and went down to BC without going up from C3.


expid: AMAD02306
peakid: AMAD
year: 2002
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Michael Waerthl
sponsor: Amical Alpin Ama Dablam Expedition 2002
ascent1: 378
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 2002-10-07
smtdate: 2002-10-20
termdate: 2002-10-23
campsites: BC(07/10,4600m),ABC(09/10,5550m),C1(14/10,5800m),C2(16/10,6100m),C3(19/10,6400m),Smt(20/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 just below boulder field.

  Only 1 tent in C2, most members went from C1 directly to C3; C2 used primarily by Waertl and Sherpa for opening route above C2 with a lot of fixed rope.

  Franz left expedition 9 Oct, problem of depression (psychological problem). 

  Bucher and Wenger left 20 Oct because unhappy they could not reach top.


expid: AMAD02307
peakid: AMAD
year: 2002
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Jordi Camprubi Casas
sponsor: Catalan Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 2002-10-14
smtdate: 2002-10-18
termdate: 2002-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to lack of motivation
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak (both members and Mingma)
campsites: BC(14/10,4600m),C1(18/10,5900m),xxx(18/10,5900m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Camprubi went to C1 to see mountain but without his teammate. It was not interesting to go higher, so down to BC on 19th and left mountain next day. 

  Also not concentrating on climb since Bresco in KTM waiting for him and trekking friend in Barcelona because of fall while trekking, requiring Bresco to go to KTM with him.


expid: AMAD02308
peakid: AMAD
year: 2002
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Angelo Giovanetti
sponsor: Independent Italian team
ascent1: 389
bcdate: 2002-10-29
smtdate: 2002-11-01
smttime: 1315
termdate: 2002-11-04
campsites: BC(29/10,4580m),ABC(30/10,5380m),C1(31/10,5375m),Smt(01/11)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  BC at near others tents.

  12:00 pm 31 Oct from C1 for summit by both members. After 2 hours both headlamps broken and stayed for 3 hours at 5750m huddled together. Stopped in C2 for drinking quickly and on up to top; again stopped in C3 for tea from other team's Sherpas. Only Giovannetti arrived on summit at 1:15-1:30 pm; Baldo stopped 200m below top with chest problems and waited for summiter to return; slept in C2 and slept in other team's tent close together in cold. Down to BC 2 Nov.


expid: AMAD02309
peakid: AMAD
year: 2002
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Sebastien Fonteneau
sponsor: Amis Dablam
ascent1: 397
bcdate: 2002-11-02
smtdate: 2002-11-08
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2002-11-11
campsites: BC(02/11,4700m),C1(04/11,5900m),C3(07/11,6400m),Smt(08/11)
agency: Sherpa Trekking Service (STS)
routememo:
  8 Nov all 7 members left C3 9:00 am having waited for wind to drop; on top between 12:00 Bret and 2:00 pm Fonteaneau and Mrs Fonteaneau. All slept in C3; all BC 9 Nov.


expid: AMAD02310
peakid: AMAD
year: 2002
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Ryszard Pawlowski
sponsor: Patagonia Mountain Agency (PMA) Ama Dablam Expedition 2002
ascent1: 392,393,396,400
countries: Slovenia, USA
bcdate: 2002-10-25
smtdate: 2002-11-04
termdate: 2002-11-12
campsites: BC(25/10,4500m),C1(28/10,5700m),C2(03/11,6000m),C3(03/11,6300m),Smt(04-05,07,09/11)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  "Lucky" about expeditions on route at same time; when this team arrived there were only 2 others and when left, other teams just starting to climb.


expid: AMAD02311
peakid: AMAD
year: 2002
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Damian Benegas
sponsor: Mountain Madness Ama Dablam Expedition 2002
ascent1: 387
approach: Via Dingboche and Pangboche
bcdate: 2002-10-22
smtdate: 2002-10-31
smttime: 1248
termdate: 2002-11-03
campsites: BC(22/10,4700m),ABC(26/10,5400m),C1(27/10,5700m),C3(30/10,6400m),Smt(31/10)
agency: Mountain Madness
routememo:
  * Klima and Benegas on top at 12:48, Chappell and Lama Zangbu at 13:45 - Chappal going very slowly. Lama Zangbu had summit Everest many times, is brother of Lhakpa Gyalu.


  Damian Benegas - Nov 5, 2002

  Oct 16 - Fly by Shangri La air lines at 8:30 am KTM Lukla, walk for 3
           hrs to Phakting. Stay at the Namaste Lodge.
  Oct 17 - Phakting to Namche. Walk for 2 hours to Monjo checkpoint and 
           have lunch across the bridge. Continue walking to Namche. 
           Total walking time. Stay at the Himalayan Lodge at the care of 
           Onu Sherpa in Namche.
  Oct 18 - Namche->Dingboche. Stay at the Ama Dablam Lodge. The clients
           departed early with Lama Zangbu and I departed later. Total
           hours hike for me 2:10 hours. Clients felt great.
  Oct 19 - Dingboche->Pangboche. Rain in the night but awesome in the 
           morning. Hike with the clients and have an awesome photoshoot.
           Total time hours was 1 hours. First exposure to Ama Dablam
           and high altitude 3900m. Stay at Paradise Lodge - at the care
           of Ang Nuru.
  Oct 20 - Rest day at Pangboche. I run to Namche in 1:59 hours and 
           return with some fresh bread and croissants in 2:35 hs. Of 
           course that I check email. The weather is getting better by
           the day.
  Oct 21 - Walk to Henry's base camp. Return to Pangboche. 3900m to 4700m
           in 2:00 hrs stay and have dinner.
  Oct 22 - Move to BC
  Oct 23 - Client are feeling great - rest at BC, organize gear, 
           bouldering, very nice weather. Get report of condition on the
           route. Many work in the lines are needed from C1 to C3. Fix
           lines school day. Work on 2 short clips and on taking
           advantage of short clip on traverses.
  Oct 24 - Carry load to ABC at 5400m - and ascent of 700m in 2 hrs. Bill
           took 2:30 hrs little headache. Set up one tent and return to BC
  Oct 25 - Puja - rest day, organize gear, supplies and awesome bouldering
  Oct 26 - Move to ABC - 3 hours. Clients are feeling great and the 
           weather is still holding. For how long?
  Oct 27 - Move to C1 5700m. 2 hrs having a great time. For high altitude 
           we had bags of cooked rice and pasta with tomato sauce, also 
           some potatoes. 
  Oct 28 - Work up the ridge. Lama Zangbu carries to C3. Replace and fix 
           lines from C1 to C2. Almost 6 hours of hard work, pound more
           pins than on a route on el Camp. Return to C1. Clients 
           performed fine on the lines. After return to C1, I return to BC
           Zangbu stay on C1 with the members.
  Oct 29 - Rest day on C1, I return to C1 with more pasta, some cake and
           some more gas.
  Oct 30 - Move to C3. Sun hits C1 at 6:24, so we get ready for a 8 am 
           depart time to C3. Have a replace a 40m of rope on the first
           tower. We get crampons on C2 and then I replace 100 ms at the
           base of the the grey tower, repair another 50ms. Get to the
           mushroom ridge and have a difficult time - is getting late. 
           Zangbu stays with Danny and Bill goes ahead.
           Total time for that day. Weather is very good but very cold.
  Oct 31 - Some how the good weather of the past 10 days changed to a 
           very windy night at 3. Gust of intense wind all night. Wake up
           at 6 am and wait to what will happen, once the sun hits the 
           valley - no clouds, so maybe will pass by.
           By 7:30 am the wind is still very strong. Decided to go for it.
           Very cold cold!
           Departed at 8 am. Bill almost quit on me, so I had to get down 
           100 to talk him out. Just where very very cold. Shit my toes 
           were numb. Members were very slow. Past the Dablam and the wind
           was less strong. Danny and I and Zangbu and Bill. Bill is going
           very slow this time. I think the mountain is getting to him.
           I summit at 12:48 and Bill and Zangbu summit at 13:45. Time 
           to get out of here. Shots and down. Hit C3.
  Nov 1  - Very strong wind during the night, but not wind in the 
           morning. Walk at 6:00 am at get ready for 8 am departed time 
           for C1 to BC.
           Took 7 hours to get down - what a nightmare to get to C1 at 15 
           pm. As soon as we get back we departed to BC. Arrived at 19:30
           pm with Danny. A very long day.
  Nov 2 -  Rest at BC and packing
  Nov 3 -  BC -> Namche
  Nov 4 -  Namche -> Lukla
  Nov 5 -  Fly out -> KTM
  Nov 6 -  Leader flys out
  Nov 7 -  2 members fly out

  Notes: Also same day summit other members under Henry Todd permit:
    Mr. Simon Piper
    Robin Marriott and two Henry's Sherpas.

  The mountain was very clean, but we took about 50 lbs of old ropes. Refixed all the ridge with better ropes and anchors.


expid: AMAD02312
peakid: AMAD
year: 2002
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Mark Houston
sponsor: American Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 412
bcdate: 2002-11-17
smtdate: 2002-11-22
termdate: 2002-11-26
othersmts: Lobuche to 5600m (very steep ice at bottom)
campsites: BC(17/11,4580m),C1(19/11,5820m),C2(21/11,6200m),Smt(22/11)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  Very good conditions: wind low and clear sky. No technical difficulties. Less difficult than steep ice on Lobuche, where they had some climbing before Ama Dablam. No one else to summit on 22 Nov.


expid: AMAD02313
peakid: AMAD
year: 2002
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Bill Crouse
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Ama Dablam Expedition 2002
ascent1: 391,405
countries: UK
bcdate: 2002-10-22
smtdate: 2002-11-02
termdate: 2002-11-13
campsites: BC(22/10,4550m),ABC(27/10,5500m),C1(29/10,5750m),C2(31/10,6000m),C3(01/11,6300m),Smt(02,11/11)
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  2nd was lovely day and this team were only people on top that day. All teams cooperated in fixing ropes, anchors, etc and using each other's tents.

  Gianotti arrived BC 4 Nov to ABC 6th, C1 8th, C2 on 9th, C3 10th and top 11th.


expid: AMAD02314
peakid: AMAD
year: 2002
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Luca Febbraio
sponsor: AD 2002 Expedition to Ama Dablam
ascent1: 377
countries: S Africa
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2002-10-05
smtdate: 2002-10-20
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2002-10-22
campsites: BC(05/10,4600m),C1(10/10,5800m),C2(18/10,6065m),C3(19/10,6380m),Smt(20/10)
accidents: Gionella chest infection
achievment: Probably 1st S African on Ama Dablam summit
agency: Trekking & Mountaineering Services
routememo:
  Oct 20: left C3 at 08:30 hours. Summit at 12:30 hours, stayed about 30 minutes, descended to C2 at 15:30 hours. Beautiful weather, little windy and cold. Phillips said it was first time in his life to walk on snow. 

  The other two Italians members left BC on Oct 14 and probably left Nepal on 18th. Both of them reached up to 5900m. Febbraio (former leader of the expedition) got home-sickness. Gionella got chest infection and decided to leave.

  Hired:
    Da Ngima Sherpa (1972-6-21), Bhakanje VDC-2, Solukhumbu, Ama Dablam 1995
    Man Bahadur Gurung (38), Sitalpati VDC-6, Sankhuwasabha, Cho Oyu X2,
      Dhaulagiri X3 (maybe with Japanese Expedition)


expid: AMAD02315
peakid: AMAD
year: 2002
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Thondup Saari
sponsor: Rangzewn Expedition to Ama Dablam
ascent1: 384,385
bcdate: 2002-10-15
smtdate: 2002-10-23
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2002-10-27
campsites: BC(15/10,4640m),C1(22/10,5750m),C2(23/10,6300m),C3(22/10,6500m),Smt(23-24/10)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site.

  22nd Law and Nima Tamang went to C3 while other 2 members stopped at 6300m on biv. 23rd Law and Nima to top and other 2 to C3 and to top of 24th and spent night in C3. Law stayed night of C2 in empty tent; to C1 next night; BC on 25th; others to BC on 26th.


expid: AMAD02316
peakid: AMAD
year: 2002
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Eric Larson
sponsor: Autumn 2002 Season's Expedition
bcdate: 2002-10-16
smtdate: 2002-10-18
termdate: 2002-10-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6350m due to not enough time and ropes not fixed above 6350m
othersmts: Attempted Cho Oyu (CHOY-023-24)
campsites: BC(16/10,3960m),C1(17/10,5800m),C2(18/10,6000m),xxx(18/10,6350m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC at Pangboche
  High point at 50m below C3 on SW Ridge.

  "It was a great climb. I wouldn't want to do the climb in any other way."


expid: AMAD02317
peakid: AMAD
year: 2002
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dave McNally
sponsor: 2002 American Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 409
bcdate: 2002-11-11
smtdate: 2002-11-16
termdate: 2002-11-18
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East (Ellerby about 6 Nov); climbed Pokalde (both on 9 Nov)
campsites: BC(11/11,4725m),ABC(12/11,5640m),C1(14/11,5850m),C2(15/11,6100m),Smt(16/11)
accidents: Nothing except McNally's back problem
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  McNally reached C1 and then old back problem stopped any more progress and down to BC 15th. Ellerby and Mingma to top as only summiters that day, down to C2 for night and BC 17th. Not a difficult climb says Ellerby with the fixed ropes there.


expid: AMAD02318
peakid: AMAD
year: 2002
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Wally Berg
sponsor: Berg Adventures Ama Dablam 2002
ascent1: 406
bcdate: 2002-11-02
smtdate: 2002-11-12
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2002-11-15
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East (1 Nov by all members)
campsites: BC(02/11,4600m),ABC(04/11,5630m),C1(05/11,5900m),C2(6100m),C3(11/11,6400m),Smt(12/11)
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  BC at normal site.

  This team only people in C3 or above on 12th till 1 member of Todd's team arrived in C3. Bishop very impressed by what father's '61 team accomplished without fixed ropes. Burger so impressed by their coping with yellow tower; used caving ladder there so loads could be carried higher.


expid: AMAD02319
peakid: AMAD
year: 2002
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Duncan Chessell
sponsor: DCXP Ama Dablam Expedition 2002
countries: UK
bcdate: 2002-10-01
smtdate: 2002-10-05
termdate: 2002-11-05
termnote: Abandoned (1) on 5th due to client's sickness; (2) on 30th other client not motivated
accidents: Jackson's bronchitis
agency: Arun Treks
campsites:
  BC(01/10),C1(02/10,5900m),C2(05/10,6000m),xxx(05/10,6000m); BC(4700m,29/10),ABC(5600m,29/10),xxx(30/10,5950m)

routememo:
  Climb 1

  1) Chessell and Jackson on BC at Pangboche on 1 Oct with Pemba Nuru from Ghat. Went to C1 on 2nd Oct and fixed ropes on 3rd and 4th to C2. Lot of snow (all earlier ropes buried) but warm making snow very soft. Now Jackson in C2 got bronchitis and it started snowing 6 Oct so down to BC that day and Jackson went home.

  Climb 2

  2) Wood arrived Pangboche 27 Oct with Chessell after they had climbed Island and Lobuche East (both successfully on 16th and 25th respectively). 28 Oct to normal BC 4700m with Tshering Pande Bhote and Pemba Temba Sherpa. To ABC 29th at 5600m; 30th all four men on way to C2 directly, Wood got homesick. 2 Sherpas were on their way to C3 with gear when Wood decided to go home at 5950m, so turned back to ABC and Wood left and went to Namche on 31st, Chessell left ABC for Pangboche with both Sherpas on 1 Nov and BC on 5 Nov. Sherpas were on traverse at 6000m.

  BC  29 Oct - 4700m (normal site)
  ABC 29 Oct - 5600m
  xxx 30 Oct - 5950m-6000m by Chessell, Wood and Sherpas.


expid: AMAD02320
peakid: AMAD
year: 2002
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Henry Todd
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 388,390,395,399,402,404
countries: Australia, Netherlands, Sweden, USA
bcdate: 2002-10-16
smtdate: 2002-10-31
termdate: 2002-11-03
campsites: BC(15/10,4500m),C1(20/10,5700m),C3(28/10,6300m),Smt(31/10,01,07-08,10-11,13-14/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  All teams got along together very well.

  Summit continued:

  08 Nov - Jen and Pasang Dawa again from BC
  10 Nov - Ballinger, Ouyachchi, Pasang Tshering again from BC
  11 Nov - Laur
  13 Nov - Vrijlandt
  14 Nov - Jarvis


expid: AMAD02321
peakid: AMAD
year: 2002
route1: SW Ridge
route2: NE Ridge (to 5900m 8 Nov)
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: SummitClimb Ama Dablam Expedition 2002
ascent1: 381,382,386
countries: Australia, Austria, Belgium, Canada, Ireland, Switzerland, UK
bcdate: 2002-10-04
smtdate: 2002-10-21
termdate: 2002-10-23
campsites: BC(04/10,4575m),ABC(06/10,5400m),C1(14/10,5750m),C2(17/10,6000m),C3(20/10,6300m),Smt(21-22,24/10)
accidents: Several falls on fixed ropes but not hurt; chronic stomach trouble
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  This team, Amical Waertl's team and Buet French team cooperated about fixed ropes, use of tents, going to top first, etc.

  Lannamann and Mazur with Jangbu and Lhakpa made alpine-style attempt on NE ridge teams northwest towards summit below Amphu Gyabjen Peak. 5 Nov went to 5300m on NE ridge and biv; 6 Nov to 5500m and 7 Nov to 5750m and to 5500m to sleep. 8 Nov 5900m just below junction with N Ridge and back to 5500m to sleep. Now food and fuel supplies nearly exhausted. Very steep rock with lot of snow covering parts of it. Realized route too long with slow progress in time left to reach summit. 9 Nov all the way down to Dingboche. Needed atleast 8 more days on this long steep ridge to get to top.

  Two members left before climbing finished: Kuhles arrived at BC 8 Oct and left 9 Oct; not serious about climbing. Rolfson had chronic stomach trouble: ABC only and left BC 15 Oct.


expid: AMAD02401
peakid: AMAD
year: 2002
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Keiichi Takeuchi
sponsor: Kai Mountain School Ama Dablam
ascent1: 414
bcdate: 2002-11-07
smtdate: 2002-12-02
smttime: 1515
termdate: 2002-12-10
campsites: BC(07/11,4600m),ABC(29/11,5500m),C1(30/11,5730m),C2(01/12,6010m),C3(06/12,6340m),Smt(02/12)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  Went first to Chhukung Ri to acclimatize.

  Takeuchi intended to go to top from C1 but arrived at C1 late. 2 Dec summiters left C3 at 7:40 am, on top at 3:15 pm and returned to C2 5:30 pm by Takeuchi and Sherpas to C2 at 6:15 pm with heavier loads including taking video camerea. All to BC in Dec 3. 

  Kobayashi 30 Nov to BC from C1. 4 Dec up to C1 moving slowly with both Sherpas. 5 Dec to C2 and 6 Dec to C3 very exhausted. He decided -20 degrees at 8:00 am temperature too cold and would be too tired to go to top, so went down to C1 and 8 Dec to BC and expedition finished.

  "Comfortable" rock climbing, snow climbing and mixed climbing, but for old man not so easy over 6000m says Kobayashi.


expid: AMAD02402
peakid: AMAD
year: 2002
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Vladimir Belousov
sponsor: Russia Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 2002-12-28
smtdate: 2003-01-04
termdate: 2003-01-08
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to lack of manpower and bored wife at BC
campsites: BC(28/12,4500m),ABC(29/12,5300m),C1(30/12,5800m),xxx(04/01,6000m)
accidents: Glebov incipient cerebral edema
agency: Ang Rita Treks
routememo:
  Made ABC on first climb to C1, next time move camp from ABC site to C1 site. Climb ended early because Glebov not acclimatizing and could not go high, and Sherpa was reluctant to climb on rock (and told others team's payment to low). Belousov and Dorje Sherpa from Thami reached and crossed traverse which already had fixed ropes; Belousov told Dorje he himself would fix ropes above, but Dorje refused to go higher. Weather was perfect: warm sunshine, no wind; snowfell slightly only 31 Dec. 

  Belousov and Dorje went from C1 to 6000m to BC on 4 Jan. 5 Jan Glebov up to C1 alone with Belousov to follow on 6 Jan. 5 Jan Dorje would not go higher without more money and Glebova tired of being alone at BC; Glebov now acclimatized Ok, but attempt to make C2 and go to summit cancelled. 

  Want to come again next winter with more members, longer acclimatization, no climbing Sherpa. Considering Belousov and Glebov's experience, they think they can succeed.


expid: AMAD02403
peakid: AMAD
year: 2002
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: James Williams
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Ama Dablam Expedition 2002
ascent1: 415
bcdate: 2002-11-25
smtdate: 2002-12-04
termdate: 2002-12-07
campsites: BC(25/11,4600m),ABC(28/11,5500m),C1(30/11,5600m),C2(02/12,5800m),C3(03/12,6100m),Smt(04/12)
accidents: Williams chest infection only
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  3 Dec Reed and Williams to C2. Williams had bad chest cold and Reed decided to go down with him. Luskey said difficult between C2 and C3, new kind of challenge for him with need to use fixed rope which had never done before. Tiny bit of rope fixed by this team; used rope already there. 

  Hoelscher climbed to C2 on 1 Dec, left gear there, then left expedition same day suddenly. Morgan went above C1, was not comfortable with the climb and spent rest of expedition at BC.


expid: AMAD02405
peakid: AMAD
year: 2002
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Olivier Besson
sponsor: French-Italian Expedition to Ama Dablam
ascent1: 413
countries: Italy
bcdate: 2002-11-25
smtdate: 2002-11-29
termdate: 2002-12-01
campsites: BC(4600m),C1(26/11,5600m),Smt(29/11)
accidents: Passino bad tooth infection; nothing else
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  All 3 to C1 on 26 Nov; down to BC 27 Nov. 27-28 Nov Italian left with tooth infection while 2 French up to C1 on 28 Nov. 29 Nov both to top from C1 in 8 hours and 3 hours back to C1 on 7:00-8:00 pm. Had told Williams they planned to acclimatize by climbing SW Ridge and then go to north side and descend SW Ridge. On north might try Tomas Humar's West Face route or a North Ridge, but when Passino had to leave, then French abandoned idea of northern route. Left nothing at C1 for descent and left BC 1-2 Dec.


expid: ANN102301
peakid: ANN1
year: 2002
route1: E Ridge from S
nation: Italy
leaders: Christian Kuntner
sponsor: International Annapurna Expedition
countries: Spain, Switzerland
approach: Ghandrung->Machhapuchare BC->Anna BC across glacier
bcdate: 2002-09-13
smtdate: 2002-10-13
termdate: 2002-10-14
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(13/09,4150m),C1(28/09,5500m),1stxxx(6150m),2ndxxx(13/10,6300m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at north side of Sama Glacier
  C1 on SW Ridge of Singu Chuli (Fluted Peak)
  High point at South Face of Singu Chuli.

  Very bad weather: raining many days in last half of Sept, so C1 occupied only on 29 Sept. Put deposit at 6100m but never slept higher than C1, went only to deposit about 150m higher. Fixed deposit 5100m (300m) and on ridge (500m). Deep snow below C1 and above as deep as chest height. Last attempt to reach East Ridge made by Blanc and Kuntner; they again reached only 6150m on 13 Oct and gave up. Down to BC same day and climb finished.


  Pauner and Merelli - 23/Oct 

  Pauner left BC 13 Oct to make bid for top and arrived at 6150m and on to 6300m (below C2) having crossed traverse but could go no higher because sugar snow and small avalanches coming toward them (not hit); probably snow conditions above same, so down to BC at night of 13th Oct; so abandoned their climb.


expid: ANN302301
peakid: ANN3
year: 2002
route1: W Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Jong-Wook
sponsor: 2002 Alpine Club Rock Party Annapurna III Expedition
approach: Via Machhapuchare BC
bcdate: 2002-09-09
smtdate: 2002-09-29
termdate: 2002-10-04
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to lack of rope to fix
campsites: BC(09/09,4200m),ABC(14/09,4900m),C1(22/09,5500m),C2(26/09,6200m),xxx(29/09,6800m)
accidents: Nothing except Kim Yoo-Sin got high altitude headache and left expedition 10 Sept
agency: Echo Nepal
routememo:
  BC  at 4200m on moraine on E side of East Annapurna Glacier
  C1  at 5500m start of Glacier
  C2  at 6200m on W Face
  xxx at 6800m on NW Ridge

  Route changed above C2 from original plan because not safe to go to Col between Gangapurna and Annapurna III; avalanche from Gangapurna and Annapurna III: avalanches from Gangapurna and too strong wind at Col. Went directly up W Face, which was mixed rock, snow and ice; no higher than 6800m on face because rope supply exhausted and needed 700m more rope to reach C3 site at 7000m on NW Ridge. Fixed route entirely from ABC, where were many crevasses above this camp to C2, and above C2 same crevasses and very steep face. Very good weather and members strong, so only reason for quitting climb was lack of rope. All down to ABC on 29 Sept.


expid: ANN402301
peakid: ANN4
year: 2002
route1: NW Ridge via the Dome
nation: France
leaders: Georges Derycke
sponsor: Allibert Annapurna IV Expedition
countries: Finland
bcdate: 2002-10-07
smtdate: 2002-10-21
termdate: 2002-10-22
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to wind, dangers on route and fatigue
campsites: BC(07/10,4810m),C1(14/10,5200m),C2(15/10,5880m),C3(20/10,6200m),xxx(21/10,6600m)
accidents: Biry pulmonary edema and left expedition 10 Oct
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Sabje Khola
  C1 on northeast side of the Dome
  C2 on northeast side of the Dome
  C3 just below top of the Dome
  High point at NW Ridge.

  Had deposit at 5000m. 21 Oct all members except Biry and 2 Sherpas left C3 at 4:30 am and got to 6600m at 7:30 am, then down because members tired, crevassed icefall for next 250m above (bad wind 60 km/h all the times 100 km/h on top). All down to BC same day. 

  Mountain was constantly avalanching (no damage to this expedition). Very difficult crevasse to cross to reach the Dome but succeeded to climb there and above it. Cachet-Rosset descended from 6600m to 5000m by snowboard but made stops along the way to be safe and to help others go down.


expid: ANN402302
peakid: ANN4
year: 2002
route1: N Ridge of Dome from NW Ridge of Anna IV
nation: Austria
leaders: Peter Plank
sponsor: Friends of Nature Annapurna IV Expedition 2002
bcdate: 2002-09-26
smtdate: 2002-10-15
termdate: 2002-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6150m due to snow, wind, cold and no time for another push
campsites: BC(26/09,3900m),C1(30/09,4800m),C2(04/10,5350m),C3(14/10,5850m),xxx(15/10,6150m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Sabje Khola
  C1 at moraine east-southeast of Sabje Khola and north of mountain
  C2 on snowfield on North Face of the Dome
  C3 on North Ridge of the Dome.

  15 Oct 3 members left C3 to go to C4 at 6200m but one meter new soft snow, no sun directly. Snow fell 7 and 8 Oct and so cold (-22 C in C3) that snow stayed one week later, so down to BC. Snow avalanche had carried away C2 on 7-8 Oct so had to take new tents up for return there.

  On 18th Peter Plank and Reinhold Plank went up from C1 but got only to 5400m, where too much snowfall and wind, so down to BC and decided climb finished.

  The Dome = big round summit west of Annapurna IV. 


expid: ANNS02301
peakid: ANNS
year: 2002
route1: SW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Benoit Jacquemot
sponsor: C'est Encore Loin la Mer? Annapurna South 1982-2002
approach: From SW along on side of Khopra Danda
bcdate: 2002-09-30
smtdate: 2002-10-05
termdate: 2002-10-11
termnote: Abandoned at 5700m due to bad winds and deep snow
campsites: BC(30/09,4200m),ABC(05/10,5200m),xxx(05/10,5700m)
agency: Sherpa Alpine Trekking
routememo:
  Attempted to go above 5700m twice on 5 Oct and 10 Oct. First time stopped by 70 kph winds and 2nd time by deep snow that forced them to take longer line. Once on the ridge and climbing towards summit, there would be no descent route except ridge, which very exposed to winds.


expid: BARU02301
peakid: BARU
year: 2002
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Chizuko Kono
sponsor: Nerima Alpine Club Nepal Himalaya Expedition 2002
bcdate: 2002-10-04
smtdate: 2002-10-19
termdate: 2002-10-21
campsites: BC(04/10,5425m),C1(05/10,5675m),C2(07/10,6500m),xxx(19/10,6900m)
agency: Sherpa Summit Treks
routememo:
  Oct 19: Kono, Mogi and four Sherpas started from C2 at 04:00 hours. Summit at 15:20 hours, stayed about 20 minutes, back to C2 at 23:00 hours. Weather was clear but strong wind. The expedition returned to KTM on 27 October and leaving on Nov 02.

  The ascent is the first one of the season.

  Summiting Sherpas:
   (1) Ang Kazi Sherpa, 29, Gudel-4, Tiu, Solukhumbu (Ama Dablam 2000 not sure)
   (2) Gyalzen Sherpa, 43, Nimchula, VDC-5, Solukhumbu (Cho Oyu 2001?)
   (3) Da Chyamba Sherpa, 36, address same of No. 02 (no idea)
   (4) Pema Chhiri Sherpa, 30, Gudel-4, Tiu, Solukhumbu
   (information about Sherpas from Prakash of Sherpa Summit.

  Summit claim contradicted: 

  1 Nov 02: Steve Adamson, Canadian expedition leader, said his BC sirdar talked with Japanese team's Sherpas, who said they had gotten close to summit but not all the way to it. Sherpas had had to short rope the Japanese up the last part of their climb.

  3 Nov 02: Robert Rackl, German expedition leader, said on the 19th he was watching Japanese team from his BC with binoculars and they reached a small peak at 6900m at about 4:30 pm. They were very late and at this slow rate of ascent, it would have taken them 2 more hours to reach highest summit.

  4 Nov 02: French expedition leader, said on the 19th he was watching Japanese team from his BC with binoculars and they reached a small peak at 6900m at about 4:30 pm. They were very late and at their slow rate of ascent, it would have taken them 2 more hours to reach highest summit.


expid: BARU02302
peakid: BARU
year: 2002
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Ivano Bianchi
sponsor: Independent team (on Canadian permit)
bcdate: 2002-10-12
smtdate: 2002-10-16
termdate: 2002-10-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6950m due to deep snow
othersmts: Attempted Mera Peak
campsites: BC(12/10,5400m),C1(15/10,6140m),xxx(16/10,6950m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC near lake and other expedition
  C1 just across West Col
  High point at couloir of SE Ridge (with Tauber expedition).

  On Canadian permit but independent. First went to Mera Peak (no summit, too much snow) and arrived at BC with Canadians but climbed with Tauber expedition.

  16 Oct started up towards top from C2 at 5:00 am and caught up with Tauber's team, who had made trail, and reached same high point as Tauber's and turned back with them to BC and their climb finished, Had come to KTM with no fixed goal, went to Thamserku Trekking for suggestions and was added to Canadian's permit.

  1 Nov 02 - Canadian's leader Adamson: Italians climbed with them and shared tents, etc. Italians went up from C1 at 6100m on 18 Oct and tried for top alpine style, reached 6900m, but here snow was loose and dangerous and technical difficulty still ahead, but no rope fixed ahead, so they went down to BC same day and left BC 20 Oct.


expid: BARU02303
peakid: BARU
year: 2002
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Sergei Petrov
sponsor: Angarsk Himalayan Expedition to Himalaya
ascent1: 58th
bcdate: 2002-10-18
smtdate: 2002-10-27
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2002-10-29
campsites: BC(18/10,5500m),C1(20/10,6100m),C2(26/10,6600m),Smt(27/10)
accidents: Donskoy somehow broke his hand and stopped climbing after 25 Oct
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC near lake west of West Col
  C1 at West Col
  C2 at 100m above the team's camp on SE Ridge.

  Kirillov and Naoumov 27 Oct started for top at 5:00 am, Efimov and Petrov at 5:30 am. Kirillov and Naoumov on top at 10:00 am and Efimov and Petrov on top at 12:30 pm; all down to C2. 29 Oct all in BC and climb finished. 

  Donskoy reached 6400m on 21 Oct; Kossotourov did not go above C2 because not feeling well.


expid: BARU02304
peakid: BARU
year: 2002
route1: SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Pierre Croiset
sponsor: Atalante Baruntse Expedition
ascent1: 57th
bcdate: 2002-10-15
smtdate: 2002-10-26
smttime: 1045
termdate: 2002-10-28
campsites: BC(15/10,5450m),C1(20/10,6150m),C2(24/10,6450m),Smt(26/10)
accidents: Kitchen boy pulmonary edema in BC
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  BC at NE corner of lake west of West Col
  C1 at West Col
  C2 below SE Ridge.

  26th Oct left C2 2:30 am, reached small peak at 9:30 am, top at 10:45 am in clear and windy weather and stayed at top 30-40 minutes; back to BC same day to avoid another night in cold and wind.


expid: BARU02305
peakid: BARU
year: 2002
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Robert Rackl
sponsor: Amical Alpin Baruntse Expedition 2002
bcdate: 2002-10-13
smtdate: 2002-10-22
termdate: 2002-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to strong wind and leader's illness
campsites: BC(13/10,5400m),C1(18/10,6100m),C2(22/10,6500m),xxx(22/10,6500m)
accidents: Rackl stomach problem
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC near lake west of West Col
  C1 at West Col
  C2 at start of SE Ridge
  High point at C2.

  No one above C2 because of winds which started on 20 Oct and very cold. Rackl feeling very sick, so had to go down to BC and and other 3 members didn't want to continue without him and not possible to go higher in such fierce wind.

  4 members left early: 
    Rumpa never reached BC - left expedition 10 Oct   
    Schauer left 18 Oct - no longer interested
    G. Stingl had lung infection so she and her husband P. Stingl 
      left BC 18 Oct for helicopter that came early on 19 Oct to take to KTM.


expid: BARU02306
peakid: BARU
year: 2002
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Eduardo Portela Fernandez
sponsor: Oxygen Group Himalaya Expedition 2002 to Baruntse
bcdate: 2002-10-01
smtdate: 2002-10-06
termdate: 2002-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6750m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(01/10,5400m),C1(05/10,6450m),C2(05/10,6450m),xxx(06/10,6750m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC near lake (normal site)
  C1 just above West Col
  C2 just below SE Ridge
  High point at 300m above C2.

  The night C2 occupied began heavy snowfall. 6 Oct Portela alone up 300m from C2 and then stopped by thigh-deep snow, then down to BC. 9 or 10 Oct Portela again up to C1 alone, then found sleeping bag stolen and too deep snow; stayed one night and then down. 14 Oct Portela up to C2, snow still deep and decided climb finished.


expid: BARU02307
peakid: BARU
year: 2002
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Steve Adamson
sponsor: Canadian Baruntse Expedition
bcdate: 2002-10-12
smtdate: 2002-10-21
termdate: 2002-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to strong wind
campsites: BC(12/10,5400m),ABC(14/10,5800m),C1(16/10,6100m),C2(20/10,6400m),xxx(21/10,6500m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at 5400m near lake west of West Col
  ABC on glacier moraine just before West Col
  C1  just across West Col
  C2  at start of SE Ridge just below normal site
  High point at 6500m at 100m above C2 for shelter day.

  20th Oct Merry and Watts stayed night in C2; midnight wind-blown snow burying it and could not clear snow fast enough so moved up 100m higher to empty German (Amical) tent. Next morning no sign of where C2 was since completely covered by snow. 21st Oct to BC by Watts, so Canadian's climb finished (did try to go up to retrieve gear).


expid: BARU02308
peakid: BARU
year: 2002
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Hermann Tauber
sponsor: International Expedition 2002 to Baruntse
countries: Germany
bcdate: 2002-10-02
smtdate: 2002-10-16
termdate: 2002-10-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6950m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(02/10,5400m),C1(10/10,6140m),C2(15/10,6450m),xxx(16/10,6950m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC near lake (normal site)
  C1 just over West Col
  C2 below start ridge
  High point at couloir on SE Ridge.

  16 Oct from C2 all members (except Koenigseder and Urban), Lhakpa Gyalzen and Gyalzen (20 yrs old) for summit bid. Went along ridge to a couloir, where big cornice is on right side of narrow ridge and impossible to fix rope in deep snow, soft and waist deep and too dangerous to jump across, so turned back here at 6950m. Now climb finished and all down to BC 16th afternoon.

  Koenigseder left BC 5 Oct - no longer interested in Baruntse climb.


expid: BHRI02301
peakid: BHRI
year: 2002
route1: W Face-N Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Doug Rossillon
sponsor: Bhrikuti Expedition 2002
ascent1: 10th
countries: Switzerland
approach: Yare and southeast to Damodar Kunde
bcdate: 2002-10-26
smtdate: 2002-10-29
termdate: 2002-10-30
campsites: BC(26/10,5100m),C1(28/10,5600m),Smt(29/10)
accidents: Bochatay altitude problem and in BC all climbing period
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 5100m near Damodar Kunde monastery
  C1 at 5600m on moraine beside glacier

  Difficult passes to Damodar Kunde to BC. From C1 climbed wall of West Face to start of North Ridge and up this ridge - not difficult. Climb not a problem but very difficult to get there. Very windy with cold gales from Tibet. Down from top to BC. Route is long with three cols to go down into and up out of.


expid: BTAK02301
peakid: BTAK
year: 2002
route1: S Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Sadamusa Kitagawa
sponsor: Japan Alpine Photograph Club Joint Expedition to Bhairab Takura
approach: Dunche->Langshisa Kharka->Langshisa Glacier
bcdate: 2002-10-02
smtdate: 2002-10-03
termdate: 2002-10-05
termnote: Abandoned at 5500m due to difficulty of route
campsites: BC(02/10,5150m),C1(03/10,5500m),xxx(03/10,5500m)
agency: Sherpa Expeditions
routememo:
  BC at 5150m at foot of S Face
  C1 at 5500m on plateau on S Face
  High point at C1.

  Team, called Japan Alpine Photograph Club Joint Expedition, left KTM 25 Sept for the mountain. After his arrival at C1, leader decided route above it too difficult so descended to BC 4 Oct. Early in morning of 5th he cancelled expedition and they left BC same day.

  Team was one member and 3 Sherpas.


expid: CHOY02327
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Nicolas Weibel
sponsor: Swiss Crepe Expedition 2002 to Cho Oyu
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2002-09-08
smtdate: 2002-10-01
smttime: 1245
termdate: 2002-10-06
campsites: BC(08/09,4900m),ABC(11/09,5715m),C1(20/09,6430m),C2(30/09,7160m),Smt(01-02/10)
accidents: D. Weibel heart problem from ABC
agency: None (permit arranged directly with TMA)
routememo:
  Oct 01: started from C2 all four members at 03:40 Chinese Time. Three reached summit at 15:00 (12:45 NST), stayed about 50 minutes, back to C2 at 18:00. Cauderay had to return to C2 due to cold and exhaustion from 8000m. Weather was good, saw Everest and other mountain ranges. Other expeditions summiting on same day were Italian, Japanese and after them was McMillan, the last one to summit on that day.

  Oct 02: Cauderay started from C2 at 04:50, summited at 12:20 (10:05 NST), stayed there for 15 minutes, reached C2 at 14:00; saw Everest.

  Dominique (brother of Nicolas) had heart problem and had to leave ABC on 12 Sept and left Nepal on 16th.

  Heart Problem: As explained by Nicolas is complicated case - normal heart functions are in two chamber left and right. But in case of Dominique, the blood veins from right to left are attached. Doctors says he is not fit for scuba diving but no problem for high altitude. Nothing been proved - it was just a theory. His heart formation may have been the problem in high altitude. Now he is okay. 

  The expedition returned to Kathmandu on 8th and leaving Nepal on 14th Sept.


expid: CHOY02301
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Emilio Previtali
sponsor: Free Ride Spirit Snowboard Expedition Cho Oyu
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2002-09-05
smtdate: 2002-09-19
termdate: 2002-09-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to bad weather, snow conditions, danger of avalanche
campsites: BC(05/09,4800m),ABC(08/09,5650m),C1(13-14/09,6440m),C2(19/09-20,7200m),xxx(19-20/09,7400m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Previtali said actually they did not attempt summit. The highest point reached was during their acclimatization climb.


expid: CHOY02302
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Giuseppe Pompili
sponsor: 2002 Adventure in the World Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2002-09-08
smtdate: 2002-10-01
termdate: 2002-10-06
campsites: BC(08/09,4940m),ABC(11/09,5720m),C1(15/09,6440m),C2(18/09,7140m),C3(30/09,7585m),Smt(01-02/10)
accidents: 2nd degree frostbite of three last fingers of right hand of Dal Cin on Oct 2 while summiting
agency: Sherpa Alpine Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 4949m CBC; Interim Camp on 10th at about 5400m.

  Oct 01: Martoia started from C3 at 06:30 Chinese time, summit at 13:30 CST (11:15 NST), arrive C2 at about 18:00. Maieron started at 07:30, summit at 14:30 (12:15 NST), arrived C2 about 18:30. Both saw Everest before them were Swiss, Japanese, German and British.

  Oct 02: Dal Cin and Pompili started from C3 aat 07:00 hours. Dal Cin summited at 11:30 CST (9:15 NST), stayed about 20 minutes, reached C2 about 17:00 hours. Pompili summited at 13:00 CST (10:45 NST) stayed about 30 minutes, reached C2 about 17:00, saw Everest. Before this team were Chinese/Japanese, Swiss, 3 Spanish, Amical German old man was behind them on summit. They saw prayer flags tied on oxygen bottles, a plaque of Amical Company. 

  Sassatelli gave up climbing and left on Sept 27. The team arrived KTM on 7th and leaving on 12th.

  The expedition wants to know number of summiters in 2002.


expid: CHOY02303
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Juan Carlos Garcia Gallego
sponsor: Murcia Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2002-09-09
smtdate: 2002-10-02
smttime: 0655
termdate: 2002-10-07
othersmts: Climbed Palung Ri (on Oct 6 by Garcia Roca and Garcia Gallego)
campsites: BC(09/09,4900m),ABC(11/09,5700m),C1(15/09,6300m),C2(22/09,7100m),Smt(02/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC - Interim Camp on 10th at 5220m.

  Oct 2: Garcia Roca and Garcia Gallego left C2 at 00:45 hours (CST); Gallego reached summit at 09:10 (6:55 NST), stayed about 25 minutes, returned to ABC at 18:00 hours. Roca gave up climbing when he reached at 7600m due to difficulty in climbing. Clavel Amo and Seiquier Carasa went up to 7500m. Garcia Galleco saw Everest and prayer flags on summit. Met Chinese-Japanese team with oxygen and some Sherpas; 4 or 5 people were on summit.

  The expedition returned to KTM on 8th. Clavel Amo, Garcia Roca and Seiquier Carasa leave on 9th, Garcia Gallego leaves on 11th.


expid: CHOY02304
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Joan Casoliva
sponsor: Expedicio Bergveda 2002 Cho Oyu
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2002-09-11
smtdate: 2002-10-01
smttime: 0645
termdate: 2002-10-07
othersmts: Climbed Palung Ri (Soler)
campsites: BC(11/09,4900m),ABC(13/09,5700m),C1(16/09,6400m),C2(18/09,7100m),Smt(01-04/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Oct 01: Cunill started from C2 at 00:00 hours Chinese time, summit at 09:00 (06:45 NST), stayed half an hour, descended to ABC at 19:00.

  Oct 02: Sanchez started from C2 at 00:00 hours, summit at 09:30 (07:15 NST), stayed about 15 minutes, returned to C2 at 13:00.

  Oct 03: Canellas started from C2 at 23:30 hours of Oct 2, summit at about 10:30 (08:15 NST), stayed about 5 minutes, descended to ABC at about 21:00.

  Oct 04: Casoliva started from C2 at 01:45, summit at 10:30 (08:15 NST), stayed about half an hour, descended to C1 about 19:00. He cleared the C2. 

  Sala and Soler reached to Icefall above rock band on Oct 2. Sala was exhausted and Soler got bronchitis infection, both descended to ABC. Roca slept at C2 on Oct 1, exhausted, descended to ABC.

  The expedition arrived KTM on Oct 8 and leaving on Oct 13th.


expid: CHOY02305
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: Norway
leaders: Kine Henriksen
sponsor: Independent climber on Cho Oyu (on Benegas permit)
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2002-09-02
smtdate: 2002-09-16
termdate: 2002-10-01
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to bad weather and time running out
campsites: BC(02/09),ABC(05/09,5700m),C1(12/09,6400m),C2(16/09,7000m),xxx(16/09)
accidents: Henriksen throat infection
agency: Mountain Madness
routememo:
  Henriksen's bad throat seems what weakened her; she did not have acclimatization problems. After she descended to ABC from C2, she planned to make summit bid, but prolonged bad weather set in (which blew away many team's tents at C1) and she newer went above C1 again.

  Henriksen was on the same permit as the expedition led by Damian Benegas. He said 4 Oct, 02 that she was a problem: did not want help from him, but did not listen to other people's suggestions, and did not acclimatize well.


expid: CHOY02306
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Bernard Muller
sponsor: Stages and Expeditions French Cho Oyu Expedition
countries: Switzerland
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2002-09-03
smtdate: 2002-09-23
termdate: 2002-10-02
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to bad weather and no more time (yaks ordered for 29th)
campsites: BC(03/09),ABC(08/09,5700m),C1(12/09,6400m),C2(22/09,7000m),xxx(23/09,7600m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  23 Sept summit bid from C2 but only C3 altitude 7600m, but not higher and returned to C2 same day because of snowfall and wind and back to ABC same day. Now many days bad weather and no one from this went higher again. 

  Bonjean, Boyer and Vidal left expedition 27 Oct because expedition finished and wanted to go home quickly.

  Saw 10-15-20 soldiers at ABC and Sherpas said they were there in fight between soldiers and Tibetans and that some Tibetans injured or killed. Muller heard 4 shots: happened about 16 Sept and he saw same soldiers going towards Nangpa La 

  Sherpa: 
    Pasang Gyalzen, Makalu VDC, Xixa X1 (not Cho Oyu)
    Dawa Nuru, Makalu VDC, 1971, 1st 8000er


expid: CHOY02307
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Jose Javier Otamendi Pastor
sponsor: Cho Oyu Expedition 2002
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2002-09-11
smtdate: 2002-10-02
smttime: 0815
termdate: 2002-10-07
campsites: BC(11/09,4950m),ABC(15/09,5700m),C1(20/09,6400m),C2(29/09,7100m),Smt(02,05/10)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC at 4950m CBC. Interim Camp 14th at 5350m.

  Oct 02: Briongos and Llopis Cano left C2 at 01:00 Chinese Time. Briongos summit at 10:30 (08:15 NST), stayed about 30 minutes, returned to C2 at 14:30. The days was cold but clear, saw Everest. On the summit two, oxygen bottles to which prayer flags were tied. Before him were Carlos (Spanish) and two Sherpas with Japanese women and Edurne with her were Catalan expedition members. Llopis Cano had to return from 7400m. He started feeling bad in his toes.  

  Oct 05: Sanz started from C2 at 02:30, summit at 12:00 (09:45 NST). Stayed on summit about 15 minutes. It was very cold. Back to C2 at 16:00. Clear weather saw Everest nice view. After him were Spanish paragliders. Before him were people from Canary Island with Spanish and some Sherpas, about 10 people on summit.

  The expedition arrived KTM on 0ct 8 and will leave on the 10th, Sanz leaving on 11th.

  Otamendi Pastor had knee problem - did not try summit.


expid: CHOY02308
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Juanito Oiarzabal
sponsor: Seat Canary Islands Himalaya 2002 to Cho Oyu
countries: Ecuador
bcdate: 2002-09-12
smtdate: 2002-10-04
smttime: 1105
termdate: 2002-10-08
campsites: BC(12/09),ABC(14/09,5700m),C1(17/09,6400m),C2(20/09,7000m),C3(04/10,7400m),Smt(04-05/10)
agency: Sea to Summit Trekking
routememo:
  J. Vallejo directly to top from C2; left C2 2:45 am NST 4 Oct and then C3 5:15 am, cold feet so stayed 50 minutes and then up to top at 11:05 am. Saw Everest beautifully and at top "unfortunately" many oxygen bottles and prayer flags and metal plaque advertising skiing business. Down to ABC same day at 5:50 pm. 

  Oct 5 from C3: left C3 at 3:00 am and on top at 10:40 (Amador) and 11:00 (Cruz), both of whom saw Everest; Juanito at 10:30; Juan Vallezo at 10:00 am with 2 Sherpas "Sherpas" slept in C2 that night and ABC 6 Oct.

  "Very nice mountain, I enjoyed it." 2 hours and in next camp higher; not so very way to go.

  Summit "Sherpas": 
    Bir Bahadur Gurung, aka Vishnu, 20/9/67 (4/6/2024), Dharmpani-8, Tanahun, 
      1st 8000er
    Mingmar Tamang, 33, Kerung, Solu, 1st 8000er


expid: CHOY02309
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Chris Semmel
sponsor: Amical Alpin Cho Oyu Expedition 2002
countries: Austria, Italy
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2002-09-06
smtdate: 2002-10-01
termdate: 2002-10-07
campsites: BC(06/09),ABC(08/09,5700m),C1(15/09,6400m),C2(22/09,7050m),C3(30/09,7480m),Smt(01-02/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Had period of excellent weather 30 Sept onwards with good snow (hard and not too deep) so able to send 2 parties to summit.

  Sherpa summiters: 
  1 Oct: Chuldim, Khumjung, 9/71, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X1
         Nang Chombi, Kharikhola, Everest 16/05/02
  2 Oct: Nima, Kharikhola, 12/72, Cho Oyu X3
         Pasang Tendi, Kharikhola, about 26 Yrs, Everest X1

  Oxygen: 
    none used for climbing and sleeping, used only for medical reason by 
    1) Eisenberger descending from C3 to C2 with cerebral edema.
    2) Faulstich with incipient pneumonia in ABC at night to relieve his 
       breathing.

accidents:
  Faulstich incipient pneumonia & used O2 in ABC at night; Liebold bad bronchitis; Eisenberger cerebral edema at 8000m; Waaz frostbitten nose; Lhaka Tshering bad throat infection; Liebold & Lhakpa Tshering left team about 24 Sept


expid: CHOY02310
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Edurne Pasaban
sponsor: Cho Oyu Expedition
countries: Italy
bcdate: 2002-09-05
smtdate: 2002-10-05
smttime: 0735
termdate: 2002-10-10
campsites: BC(15/09),ABC(17/09,5600m),C1(23/09,6400m),C2(01/10,7000m),C3(04/10,7500m),Smt(05/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Summit party R. Agirre, Manfrin, Pasaban, Mingma Dorje, Chhang Dawa and Temba from Makalu. Started from C3 3:30 am NST; Manfrin turned back at 8000m because fingers starting to get frostbite, but Agirre, Pasaban and 3 Sherpas to top at 7:35 am and saw Everest and Lhotse. Returned to C3: Pasaban and 2 Sherpas at 9:30 am; Agirre waited at top for winds, too strong and in way direction, returned to C3 1:30 pm. Agirre at 2:30 took off by parapente, looking at Nangpa La after 10-12 minutes safely and returned to ABC at 4:00 pm. "Very tired" but was "wonderful" flight in light wind but very cold (1992 parapented from little below top of Kangchungtse and 2001 from C3 on Xixa). All summit party to ABC that same day.

  One member, Jesus Maria Agirre, left expedition 30 Sept because not acclimatizing.

  Sherpa summiters: 
    Chhang Dawa, Makalu VDC, 30/7/82, Makalu X1, Lhotse X1
    Mingma Dorje, Makalu VDC, 16/6/78, Cho Oyu 16/9, Makalu, Xixa and Lhotse X1
    Temba Wangdi Sherpa, Makalu VDC, 1960, 1st 8000er


expid: CHOY02311
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Giampaolo Casarotto
sponsor: Focus Italian Adio Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2002-09-09
smtdate: 2002-10-01
smttime: 0945
termdate: 2002-10-07
campsites: BC(09/09,4900m),ABC(11/09,5770m),C1(12/09,6400m),C2(22/09,7165m),Smt(01,03/10)
accidents: Pensa frostbitten nose, right thumb, toes of both feet during the summit climb
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Oct 01: Casiraghi (diabetic), Cucco, Pensa, Peruffo, Radin and Sormani (diabetic) from C2 at 01:00 Chinese time. Pensa and Peruffo summited at 12:00 (09:45 NST), stayed about 40 minutes back to C2 about 17:00. Cold clear day. Nice view of mountains including Everest. Two oxygen cylinders on summit; before them were 3 Americans with oxygen and a Sherpa, Japanese with oxygen. After them were two Germans (Amical) and some other people. Casiraghi and Cucco did not attempt as they were very tired. Radin reached up to rock band 7500m about [also tired?]. Sormani stopped at C3 [site at 7400m] due to coldness. 

  Oct 03: Cadorini, Casarotto, Cerin, M. Peruffo (diabetic), Serraglio and Tararan left 10:30 from C2. Summit by Casarotto and Marco Peruffo at 10:30 (08:15 NST), stayed about half an hour, back to C2 about 14:00. Clear weather, saw Everest.

  There was one Spanish doctor on the summit. Cadorini, Cerin and Tararan reached up to C3 [site] exhausted and stopped climbing. Serraglio reached up to 8100m, suffered from snowblindness, waited for summiting member and returned together. 

  Expedition Doctor Veronese up to C1, not supposed to attempt. Pavan, the research doctor, remained at ABC all the time. Expedition returned to KTM on Oct 09, leaving on 11th.


expid: CHOY02312
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Alberto Bianchetti
sponsor: Cho Oyu 2002 Expedition
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2002-09-18
smtdate: 2002-10-05
smttime: 0935
termdate: 2002-10-09
campsites: BC(18/09,4800m),ABC(20/09,5700m),C1(23/09,6400m),C2(30/09,7200m),Smt(05/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Oct 05: Gioia, Giannangeli and Mingma Sherpa started from C2 at 0:00 hours Chinese Time, summit at 11:50 (09:35 NST), stayed about 15 minutes, descended to C1 at 17:30. Mingma stayed at C2. Giannangeli reached upto 7300m, had to return due to exhaustion. 

  Alberto Bianchetti, Paolo Bianchetti and Imperatori left ABC on Oct 08 to CBC to arrange porters. The expedition arrived KTM on 10th and leaves on 12th.

  Alberto Bianchetti remained in C1; Paolo Bianchetti reach up to 7100m; Cittadini up to 7100m; Imperatori up to 6400m; Massena, Palmerini and Testa up to 6800m.

  Summit day was clear and saw Everest. Before Gioia there were two Spanish and four Sherpas that summited same day. 


  Sarad of Thamerku said no climbing Sherpa was provided; only a cook was there from Thamserku.

  But from email received in reply to inquiry:

  Sherpa's name is Mingma Sherpa. We hired him to set up C2 (7200m). On Oct 5th. When Giampaolo Gioia arrived in summit, Mingma and Gioia went together from C2 to C3. Then Gioia went alone to summit because Mingma waited for Spanish Edurne's expedition.


expid: CHOY02313
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Rocco Venditti
sponsor: Progetto Quota 8000 Cho Oyu
countries: San Marino
bcdate: 2002-09-15
smtdate: 2002-10-06
termdate: 2002-10-10
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to very cold weather
campsites: BC(15/09),ABC(18/09,5800m),C1(25/09,6450m),C2(05/10,7150m),C3(06/10,7500m),xxx(06/10)
accidents: Only Nardi's slightly frostbitten toes
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  No summit success because very cold and danger of frostbite.

  1st summit attempt directly from C2 by Nardi during night of 5th/6th Oct and reached 8000m. Left C2 midnight Chinese Time and at 8000m (7:00 am) and now toes getting frostbitten, so down to C2 for that night.

  2nd summit attempt in early morning (3:00 am Chinese time) of 7 Oct. Pazzaglio and Pessa left C3, but Pessa to 7550m and Pazzaglia to 7600m, both turned back to C3 because too cold; with Pessa was Sherpa Lobsang.


expid: CHOY02314
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Cho Oyu Expedition 2002
countries: Australia, Canada, UK
bcdate: 2002-09-02
smtdate: 2002-09-30
termdate: 2002-10-03
campsites: BC(02/09),ABC(08/09,5800m),C1(14/09,6400m),C2(20/09,7100m),Smt(30/09)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  No C3 because bad weather prevented going this high quickly: snow at lower altitude and strong winds higher. 30 Sept first day anyone summited. All members tried for top on 30th and all used oxygen (Hunt had used it night before). Most going too slowly to summit: Brand, Harper, Hunt and Robinson and Brice turned back at small peak just on plateau. 

  Summit members used oxygen to top and back (most used all the way back to C2); Sherpas used none at all.

  Summit Sherpas: 
    Chuldin Temba, Zorak, 1963, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1
    Karsang Namgel, Thami, 1971, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X4
    Lobsang Temba, Khumjung, 1968, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2

  Chinese army at ABC: sometime around 21-23 Sept, 3 Chinese army (PLA) soldiers were searching for a group of about 20 Tibetans from Amdo. PLA found woman lying on ground as a decoy and when they went to look at her, they were attacked by Amdos hitting them over the head with rocks; Amdos chased them (1 was Han Chinese and other 2 Tibetans). On the following day - following night, 2 Tibetans soldiers returned to Cho Oyu ABC and slept in one of Brice's tents; they had no sleeping bags, food, warm clothing. On 3rd day, 15-20 more Chinese soldiers came to ABC also looking for the Amdos; some reached the moraine, some went to Nangpa La and returned to ABC; 3 stayed in Brice's tent, the rest in tents of the Joint Japanese-Chinese expedition. On 4th day they all went back to their base at Base Camp. Later that morning, shots were heard at ABC, they were fired by the Han Chinese soldier in the first trio: he was crawling, dragging himself through the snow and firing to call attention to himself. Brice and the Tibetan "Sherpas" with the Japanese-Chinese expedition went to him and brought him to Japanese-Chinese tent at ABC. He had picked up again and cartridge was empty; no foreigners at ABC went out to help; only Brice and Sherpas and Japanese-Chinese "Sherpas" came out. Perhaps the Americans on an expedition to Nagpai Gosum were shot at by Amdos in crossfire with PLA.


expid: CHOY02315
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Haruki Inokuchi
sponsor: Chamonix Club Cho Oyu 2002 Autumn Expedition
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2002-09-01
smtdate: 2002-09-16
termdate: 2002-09-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to bad weather, deep soft snow, strong wind, danger of avalanche
campsites: BC(01/09,4700m),ABC(05/09,5600m),C1(13/09,6300m),C2(16/09,7300m),xxx(16/09,7300m)
agency: Himalayan Sherpa Adventure
routememo:
  The expedition did not try summit. Reached up to 7300m C2, slept night with Sherpa and returned to ABC on 17th. 

  The expedition arrived Oct 1 to KTM. Inokuchi will leave on Oct 9.

  Sherpa:
    Chongba Sherpa, (near) Lukla, summited Cho Oyu in 2000 and Everest X2


expid: CHOY02316
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: Canada
leaders: Ian Scanlan
sponsor: Independent climber (on Benegas permit?)
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2002-09-02
smtdate: 2002-09-24
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m
campsites: BC(02/09,4800m),ABC(06/09,5700m),C1(12/09,6400m),C2(17/09,7200m),xxx(24/09,7700m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  estimated on the basis of Horinaga
  ABC expedition.

  Damian Benegas said that Scalan was in C2 on 24th. Benegas said that Scalan told him that he went beyond yellow band on 24th.


expid: CHOY02317
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Ernst Marti
sponsor: Swiss Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2002-10-05
smtdate: 2002-10-13
smttime: 1545
termdate: 2002-10-16
othersmts: Climbed Noninkangsang (in Tibet)
campsites: BC(05/10,5000m),ABC(07/10,5700m),C1(11/10,6500m),Smt(13/10)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  CBC at CBC
  Interim camp on 6th at 5450m.

  Oct 13: Gallati, Huber, and both Martis started at 02:00 Chinese time. Ernst Marti summited at 18:00 (15:45 NST), spent about 5 minutes, spent night in snow hole (bivouac) at about 6800m. On 14th started down about 07:30, reached C2 at 09:00. On summit day weather was clear but windy. Marti saw Everest/Lhotse and took pictures. On summit saw 3-4 oxygen cylinders and prayer flags. He was alone and last one to summit in the season. Rest of the members reached up to 6800m exhausted, then returned to C2. The expedition members criticized the climbers about the garbage they left in ABC. CBC is well organized and well kept.

  Tibet: Noninkang 7206m: ascent - partially through new route via Karo La (4950m) with one camp (5600m).

  Ascent and descent of Noninkangsang was done on skis by all four members.

  The team is leaving Ktm on Oct 20.


expid: CHOY02318
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Toshikatsu Horinaga
sponsor: FYK Cho Oyu Expedition 2002
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2002-09-02
smtdate: 2002-09-28
termdate: 2002-10-02
termnote: Abandoned at 7550m due to bad weather (the permit was valid till Sep 29th)
campsites: BC(02/09,4800m),ABC(06/09,5700m),C1(12/09,6400m),C2(18/09,7200m),xxx(28/09,7550m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC
  High point at below rock band.

  Sept 27: Fukumura and Hachiya started from C2 at 23:00 Chinese Time. Reached 7550m at 03:00 of 28th, back to C2 at about 04:00. Bad weather, soft snow, danger of avalanche. 

  The expedition returned to KTM Oct 03. Hachiya and Horinaga to leave on Oct 8. Fukumura leaves at the end of October; she will go for trekking.

  Horinaga stayed at ABC. Did not try climbing.


expid: CHOY02319
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Shigeo Tamoi
sponsor: Independent climber
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2002-09-02
smtdate: 2002-09-24
termdate: 2002-10-02
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to bad weather and time limit of permit
campsites: BC(02/09,4800m),ABC(06/09,5700m),C1(10/09,6400m),C2(17/09,7100m),C3(24/09,7500m),xxx(24/09,7600m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Sept 24: started from C3 at 06:00 NST, reached 7600m at 07:30, descended to C1 at 16:00. He tried on 27th from ABC about 12:30, but could not reach even C1 - very windy.

  He returned to KTM on Oct 3 leaving Nepal on Oct 5.


expid: CHOY02320
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Henry Todd
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Cho Oyu Expedition 2002
countries: New Zealand, USA
bcdate: 2002-09-01
smtdate: 2002-10-01
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2002-10-03
campsites: BC(01/09),ABC(04/09,5700m),C1(08/09,6400m),C2(10/09,7000m),C3(30/09,7400m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Left C3 about 4:00 am NST, on top 10:30 am after some Amical (with Mease, after Tibetan-Japanese women) in lovely weather; members to C2 and Ang Nuru to ABC for night.


expid: CHOY02321
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Damian Benegas
sponsor: Mountain Madness Cho Oyu Expedition 2002
countries: Italy
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2002-09-03
smtdate: 2002-09-24
termdate: 2002-09-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to bad weather conditions and time limit
campsites: BC(03/09,4800m),ABC(05/09,5800m),C1(12/09,6400m),C2(15/09,7200m),xxx(24/09,7700m)
agency: Mountain Madness
routememo:
  C1 was used by all four members and Sherpa. C2 on 15th used by Benegas, Commotto, Peterson and Sherpa started from C2 at 16:00. 

  Struppa (Italian) member left ABC on 20th. He was tired. He left Nepal on 27th. Commotto and Peterson left ABC on 27th and left Nepal on 5th.

  Sherpa
    Lama Jangbu Sherpa, Kharikhola, Everest X7, brother of Lhakpa Gelu 
      Lama was last on Everest 2002 Spring


expid: CHOY02322
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Michael (Mick) Bromley
sponsor: Anglo-Neplese Cho Oyu Expedition 2002
countries: Nepal
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2002-08-31
smtdate: 2002-09-24
termdate: 2002-09-28
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to deep snow conditions and exhaustion
campsites: BC(08/31,4800m),ABC(09/04,5700m),C1(09/08,6400m),C2(09/11,7100m),xxx(09/24,7600m)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  BC at CBC
  High point at rock band.

  The team had two attempts on summit. First one was on 22nd Sept by Bromley, Pemba and Wade. They left C2 at 07:00 (NST), reached up to 7600m at about 11:00 hrs, and had to return to C2 due to snow conditions and exhaustion.


expid: CHOY02323
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Jason McMillan
sponsor: McMillan Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2002-09-10
smtdate: 2002-10-01
smttime: 1620
termdate: 2002-10-07
campsites: BC(10/09,4900m),ABC(15/09,5750m),C1(17/09,6400m),C2(21/09,7100m),Smt(01/10)
accidents: Numb toes and fingers
agency: South Asian Treks
routememo:
  * used other expedition's rope above rock band icefall.

  Started from C2 on Oct 1 at 02:00 hours. Summit at 16:20 hours. His first attempt was on Sept 30. He had to return from below rock band.

  No oxygen
  No Sherpa
  No guides
  Just all the way to the top (8201m)

  After quite some acclimatizing, carrying loads and setting up C1 and C2. With a break in the weather I made my first attempt at the summit on the 30 September. Setting off at 5 am from C2, as I didn't have enough equipment to set up a C3, but in the end conditions were still cold from the bad weather and by the time I got to the rock band my feet were frozen and I had to make the decision of either going for the summit or losing some toes, so I turned back. Of course the mountain is a cruel mistress and due to that adventure I have lost all feeling in all my toes.

  I made a my next attempt the next day on the 1 Sept. This time I set off a 2 am to give me plenty of time. Early on in the expedition going from base camp to intermediate camp I had to do a river crossing and bashed the heal of my foot, I think that I may have damaged some muscles or bruised the bone, so was not able to walk properly on my foot. I also managed to develop a high altitude cough, which I have to say is a cough like no other, at times you fell like you are going to cough your lungs out, and because of the lack of oxygen when you start coughing you have to stop to catch you breath all the time. It also feels like you may pass out at times. Combined with these problems you are fighting the standard problems of the intense cold, fatigue, exhaustion and mucked up appetite that you get, but I was determined that none of it was going to get in the way, but I have to say I was not moving fast on the mountain. I managed to reach the summit solo at 4:20 pm, 14 hours and 20 minutes after heading off. It's a very strange feeling reaching the top; with the lack of oxygen things seem a little dream like especially when you are looking down on these massive clouds floating beneath you. But it felt good. Part of me was amazed to be there, then at the same time it seemed quite surreal. I took some photos, sat down, composed my thoughts and then headed down at about 5:15 pm.

  The descent was quite arduous due to the exhaustion and fatigue and at one point at the rock band lost my footing on some ice and was almost thrown off the mountain, but luckily managed to arrest my fall with my ice axe. It got in to the evening and dark with my descent and had to use my head torch.

  Unfortunately due to my coughing it loosened some wires in my torch and I had to remove my gloves to reconnect the wire. It was only for a matter of maybe 5 minutes, but you pay a dear price and I have lost the feeling in all the fingers of my right hand. I am told that within a couple of months I should have full feeling back in my toes and fingers. In the end I got back to C2 at about 11:30 pm, so full summit and return took me abut 21 hours, which is a very long time and a lot longer than most, but I was determined and just but my head down and went for it.

  That evening, I guess maybe because of dehydration, I woke up during the night choking, it was quite funny as I having a dream about a group of Japanese and the dream seemed to become part of what was happening and in the dream the group were running around trying to find out why I was not able to breathe. In the end I woke up pulling at my clothing, shouting out in Japanese, quite strange. I gave myself some Diamox, tried to stay awake for a bit to make sure that there weren't any side effects. I don't know if it was a HAPE (High Altitude Pulmonary Edema), but the next day I got my stuff together and headed down to C1 and I didn't have any more problems.

  I have to say as tough as it was, it was good and I am glad I did it! I believe that I pushed myself and extended my envelope. There where some amazing views, that make you feel like the world was floating beneath you - and it was all worth it.


expid: CHOY02324
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Eric Larson
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Cho Oyu Expedition 2002
countries: Germany, Russia
approach: KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2002-09-02
smtdate: 2002-09-26
termdate: 2002-09-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to bad weather conditions and lack of time
othersmts: Attempted Ama Dablam (AMAD-023-16)
campsites: BC(02/09,5000m),ABC(04/09,5600m),C1(09/09,6200m),C2(14/09,7000m),C3(15/09,7400m),xxx(26/09,7400m)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC
  High point at just below rock band.

  Keeshan, Larson, Schroeder and two Sherpas started on Sept 26 from C2 at 02:00 NST. Reached at 7400m around 05:0, returned to ABC 16:00. 

  The expedition returned to KTM on Oct 2. Keeshan to leave KTM on Oct 4. Schroeder to leave on Oct 3. Larson to leave Kathmandu for Ama Dablam. 

  Pankin left ABC on Sept 3. He was scared and no motivation to climb the mountain.

  Sherpas:
    Sirdar Lhakpa Rita Sherpa, Thami
    Mingma Sherpa, Thami


expid: CHOY02325
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Kenji Kondo
sponsor: Adventure Guides Cho Oyu Expedition 2002
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2002-09-09
smtdate: 2002-09-30
smttime: 1130
campsites: BC(09/09,4900m),ABC(11/09,5700m),C1(16/09,6450m),C2(28/09,7100m),C3(30/09,7600m),Smt(30/09,01/10)
accidents: Dislocation of shoulder joint (right hand) of Ota while climbing
achievment: Oldest woman (71 years old Uchida) to summit
agency: Rolwaling Trek
routememo:
  Snow face above yellow band. 
  Sept 16: used slept in C1 by Kondo, Ota, K. Sato, Takahashi and Yanagida
  Sept 28: used slept in C2 by Kondo, Ota, K. Sato, Takahashi, Yanagida and three Sherpas.

  The expedition members were divided into two groups of five members and seven "O" group and "K" group.

  "Kondo" group: Led by Kondo started from C2 on 30th at 03:30 hours/NST, reached summit at about 11:30 hours, stayed about 30 minutes, returned to C2 at about 17:00 hours. Member Mrs Ota had dislocation of right shoulder joint above yellow band, which was fixed at C2 on return. It was the first ascent of the season. Weather was clear and the members had clear view of Everest and other mountains peak. About other 10 people had summited including Russell Brice's one member with Sherpa, after the Kondo team. 

  Okura group: Oct 01 started at 02:00 hours. Members reached to summit between 06:00 to 08:00 hours. Miss Uchida (71) was last one to arrive to the top. Okura stayed about an hour on the summit. The day was clear, they had clear view of Everest and other mountain peaks. All members, except Uchida who stayed in C2, reached C1 at about 15:00 hours. Uchida (started 02:00, summit 08:00, 15:00 C2). Sherpas ascent was from C2.

  The expedition lost 3 tents at C1 as strong wind blew away the tents.
  Chinese/Japanese women joint expedition summited before the Okura team.

  Non-summiters:

  Hara went upto C1, had to go to Tingri for rest due to his blood sugar
    level (diabetic).
  Terata highest was C1, blood pressure level was low, exhausted.
  Both Hara and Terata went to Tingri on 27th.

  C. Sato: highest was C1, exhausted, remained at ABC.

  The expedition returned to KTM on 6th and leaving on 8th for Japan.

  Summiting Sherpas:

  1. Tamtin Sherpa (1974/12/19), Beding, Dolakha.
     (Ngawang Tashi said that Tamtin had Everest summit with 
     Indian Expedition celebrating 50th Anniversary of Everest summit).

  2. Norbu Sherpa (1968/05/05), Beding, Dolakha.
     Cho Oyu 2001 - Mura expedition Japan of which a 70 years old top the 
     summit.

  3. Nawang Tashi (1966/01/10), Boudha, Tousal. 
     Shishapagma summit three year before.

  4. Pasang Kitar Sherpa (1979/02/25), Beding, Dolakha.
     Summit Cho Oyu 2002 Autumn with Ms Uchida.
     Everest - 1998, 1999, 2000 spring with Japanese, British & Japanese
     respectively. 

  5. Chuwang Nima Sherpa (1967/05/04), Thamo, Solukhumbu 
     Everest: 1994 Spring/American, 1994 Aut Japanese, 1996 Spring 
     Japanese. 1996 Summer International, 1998 Spring Japanese - 
     possibly he might have Everest following years. Everst X9

  6. Kilu Pemba Sherpa (1980/05/16), Beding, Dolakha
     Manaslu 2002 Spring - Norway.


expid: CHOY02326
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Ben Marshall
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Cho Oyu Expedition 2002
countries: UK
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2002-09-01
smtdate: 2002-10-01
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2002-10-05
campsites: BC(01/09,4875m),ABC(05/09,5700m),C1(10/09,6400m),C2(16/09,7130m),C3(20/09,7560m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC/Interim Camp 
  High point at above C3 (yellow band - steep section).

  C1 first used on Sept 10 by Carnahan, Dougherty, Erickson, Griber, Mackay, Marshall, Miller, Nelson, Stoup and Waldron. C2 first used on Sept 16 by Erickson, Griber, Mackay, Marshall and Stoup.
   
  October 1 started from C3 at 03:00 (NST), summit at about 09:00 almost all together, spent an hour, reached C2 about 16:00. Good weather. Saw Everest and other peaks. Other summiters before Marshall's team were China-Japan women's expedition, Japanese team. Just front of Marshall's there were German with two Sherpas without oxygen. Italian couple without oxygen and some more people. Henry Todd people were behind them. 

  Pierce Jones left on Sept 11, homesick, missing family; probably left Nepal on 13 or 14.

  Dougherty left on 16th, ankle hurting and homesick, probably left Nepal on 19 or 20.

  Cola and Weidmann were there just for trekking.

  Mackay got stomach upset on the day of summit, no climb.

  Team arrived KTM on 6th leaving on 8th.

  Sherpas:
    Kami Tshering, 1962, Pangboche
      1993 Everest South - UK
      1997 Everest South - Canadian
      2000 Everest South - US
      2001 Everest South - US
      2001 Cho Oyu       - US

    Dawa Nuru Sherpa, 26 Oct 1978, Phortse
      1998 Everest South - US
      1999 Cho Oyu
      2000 Cho Oyu
      2001 Cho Oyu
      2001 Cho Oyu

accidents:
  Griber got pulmonary edema on 17th at C2 and left ABC on 21st for KTM with Carnahan and Stoup; they probably have left BC on 23rd


expid: CHOY02127
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Georg Brosig
sponsor: Independent team to Cho Oyu (Thamserku permit)
ascent1: 440
approach: Members by air to Lhasa; 2 Sherpas and cook by road to BC
bcdate: 2002-04-28
smtdate: 2002-05-10
smttime: 0945
termdate: 2002-05-13
campsites: BC(28/04,5200m),ABC(30/04,5700m),C1(07/05,6400m),C2(08/05,7000m),Smt(10/05)
accidents: Brosig had very bad cough
agency: Himalayan Society (Thamserku Trekking pmt)
routememo:
  Climbing Sherpas and cook arrived at Tingri on 16 April and waited there for Germans, who met them there on 27 April. 

  Summit party of 2 Sherpas and Fischer left C2 at midnight of 9/10 May. Kami and Fischer reached summit at 9:45 am and were back in C2 at 12:00 noon. Kami Sherpa stopped his ascent 20m below summit because he wasnn't well (had fever). From summit could not see mountains of Nepal because too cloudy, but on summit found pole with prayer flags. All down to ABC on 11 May.

  Brosig had very bad cough and did not go higher than C1. Fischer had difficulty climbing so far from C2 to top, but had no tent to pitch at C3 site.

  Kami Sherpa, April 1964, from Kurima, Solu, 
     summited Cho Oyu with Japanese exped (Katayama) on 8 Oct 01


expid: CHOY02328
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Shiori Hashimoto, Gui Sang
sponsor: Chinese-Japanese Women's Mt. Cho Oyu Expedition 2002
countries: China
approach: Lhasa from KTM by air
bcdate: 2002-08-25
smtdate: 2002-10-01
termdate: 2002-10-09
campsites: BC(25/08,5000m),ABC(02/09,5700m),C1(11/09,6400m),C2(18/09,7200m),C3(30/09,7500m),Smt(01-02/10)
accidents: Nothing except Okuda's temporary blindness
achievment: 1st Chinese (Tibetan) women summiters
agency: Rolwaling Trek
routememo:
  1 October summiters were second team on top that day, after Kondo's Japanese team. 2 October summiters were the first to reach top that day.

  Both teams saw Everest from top. On 1 Oct, Jiji stayed on summit 1 hour to wait for Japanese members, but even so, she did round trip C3 to top to ABC in 13 hours.

  Oxygen use: by 1st summit team T. Hashimoto, used sleeping in C3 night of 30 Sept, by all summiters climbing from C3 to top to C3 except Chinese women and Okuba, who stopped using it from top. Japanese slept that night in C2 while all Chinese want directly down to ABC. Okuba became blind in C2 and used oxygen again in C2 during the night, but recovered next day and stopped using it. 

  2nd summit team used oxygen sleeping in C3, climbing to top, down to C3; no oxygen below C3. Chinese slept in ABC on 3rd while Japanese slept in C2.


expid: CHOY02401
peakid: CHOY
year: 2002
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Alberto Inurrategi
sponsor: Basque Television Cho Oyo Expedition
bcdate: 2002-11-13
smtdate: 2002-12-03
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2002-12-08
campsites: BC(13/11),ABC(15/11,5600m),C1(25/11,6450m),C2(27/11,7000m),Smt(03/12)
accidents: Slight frostbite by summiters (Beloki: toes, Inurrategi: toes)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Purpose of climb to make film for Basque Television. 

  C1 occupied 2 nights, then carried to 7000m as C2. On 28 Nov down to ABC to rest. 2 Dec from ABC to C2 at 7000m and 3 Dec to top by Beloki and Inurrategi. Arribas had gone to C1 on 25th and down to ABC on 27th while other two moved camp to 7000m. Arribas stayed during remainder of climb in ABC because this his first time at high altitude. Summit day was clear but very cold and windy (40 kmh); in tent at 7000m was -25 degrees C at night and outside -30 to -40 degrees during day. Fixed no rope except to repair short stretches of autumn ropes in ice. Exactly 6 hours 7000m to true summit and 2 hours back to 7000m; started from C2 at 7:00 am. From just below plateau to top 1-1/2 hours on hard snow and many wind slabs on plateau. No avalanching during climb. Saw Everest and Lhotse from top.


expid: CHOL02301
peakid: CHOL
year: 2002
route1: N Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kang Sung-Woo
sponsor: 2002 Corean Alpine Club Nepal Cholatse Expedition
countries: USA
approach: Pheriche->Tshola Og (lake)
bcdate: 2002-09-02
smtdate: 2002-09-14
termdate: 2002-10-02
termnote: Abandoned at 5400m due to constant rainfall and bad weather
campsites: BC(02/09,4600m),ABC(09/09,4800m),C1(14/09,5400m),xxx(14/09,5400m)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  BC  slightly northwest of lake
  ABC at bottom of North Face
  C1  on North Face.

  Started up North Face 14 Sept and made C1 and members down to ABC 15th. Everyday rainfall always got worse after reaching C1 and never slept in C1 again. 30 Sept, with food running out, decided climb finished. Because of avalanching on face, made route to west side of face. 

  2 members left early to return to their jobs: Jenson on 13 Sept and Shin on 7 Sept.


expid: CHOP02301
peakid: CHOP
year: 2002
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Masamichi Yamaguchi
sponsor: Masamichi Cho Polu Solo Expedition
approach: Chhukung and Island Peak
bcdate: 2002-09-13
smtdate: 2002-09-29
termdate: 2002-10-01
termnote: Abandoned at 5720m due to leader's sickness
campsites: BC(13/09,5170m),ABC(25/09,5275m),C1(28/09,5400m),xxx(29/09,5720m)
accidents: Only Yamaguchi's altitude sickness
agency: Guides For All Seasons
routememo:
  BC  on Lhotse Shar Glacier west side
  ABC at 5275m at Lhotse Shar Glacier east side
  C1  at 5400m below start of SE Ridge
  High point at SE Ridge.

  29 Sept left C1 to establish C2 at about 6000m on SE Ridge. Reached 5720m where Yamaguchi got altitude sickness (bad headache) and decided to stop climbing and all down to ABC to sleep. 30 Sept back to BC. 10 Oct left mountain.

  Fixed rope from ABC to high point, total 400m. Climbing with Yamaguchi were Kipa Sherpa and Pasang Sherpa.


expid: DHA102305
peakid: DHA1
year: 2002
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Esteban Lopez Sanchez
sponsor: Spanish High Mountain Military Group to Dhaulagiri 2002
bcdate: 2002-09-09
smtdate: 2002-10-01
termdate: 2002-10-09
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to dangerous snow conditions
campsites: BC(09/09,4750m),C1(19/09,5800m),C2(01/10,6800m),xxx(01/10,6800m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at NE Col
  C2 on NE Ridge low serac (same as others)
  Highpoint at C2.

  Like Ochoa had problems of porters not carrying loads to BC, so were delayed several days establishing BC. Bad weather now: snowfall and same problems establishing C2, with avalanches coming down. No C3: when went towards C3, others on mountain coming down saying impossible to go higher because of avalanching, so not above C2. 7 and 8 Oct snowing very hard with 1m of snow at BC during 2 days and could hear avalanches all day.


expid: DHA102301
peakid: DHA1
year: 2002
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Peter Guggemos
sponsor: Independent climber (on French permit)
approach: French Pass
bcdate: 2002-09-16
smtdate: 2002-10-05
termdate: 2002-10-07
termnote: Abandoned at 7550m due to dangerous snow conditions
campsites: BC(16/09,4700m),C1(28/09,5750m),C2(30/09,6700m),xxx(05/10,7550m)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at NE Col
  C2 on NE Ridge
  Highpoint just above C3 of French team.

  Returned to BC 1st Oct with Ochoa and then up on 4 Oct from BC to make continuous ascent with brief stops to rest. 4th in afternoon arrived at C2. 4 Oct midnight up from C2 to C3, where French were camed; arrived C3 5:00-5:30 am at 7500m, tested snow above and decided slab avalanche conditions too dangerous to continue and down to BC afternoon of 5th.


expid: DHA102302
peakid: DHA1
year: 2002
route1: NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Ludovic Challeat
sponsor: Dhaulagiri Expedition
bcdate: 2002-09-16
smtdate: 2002-10-05
termdate: 2002-10-10
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(16/09,4740m),C1(21/09,5800m),C2(01/10,6800m),C3(04/10,7550m),xxx(05/10,7600m)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at NE Col
  C2 on NE Ridge in crevasse
  C3 just before the crevasse
  High point at start of traverse.

  Summit bid on 5 Oct by Challeat, Roman, Verove and Pemba Sherpa stopped only 50m above C3 by very deep snow, 1 meter or more snow on North Face not getting sun. No good to wait for another bid. All down to C1 and climb finished.

  Ollangnier never reached BC because of sinus problem.
  Khamallah left expedition 6 Oct with mild chest infection.


expid: DHA102303
peakid: DHA1
year: 2002
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Inaki Ochoa
sponsor: Independent climber (on French permit)
bcdate: 2002-09-16
smtdate: 2002-10-05
termdate: 2002-10-07
termnote: Abandoned at 7550m due to snow conditions and no expected improvement
othersmts: Climbed Hongde (HONG-023-01); attempted Sita Chuchura (SITA-023-01)
campsites: BC(16/09,4700m),C1(30/09,5800m),xxx(05/10,7550m)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  Porters left Ochoa and Guggemos (who went to BC together but climbed independently) at Hidden Valley north of French Pass, so Ochoa had to ferry his 4 loads to BC in 4 days, thus delaying BC arrival. Porters left because of deep snow.

  Went once to NE Col C1 site to leave gear and then acclimatized in nearby Hongde (summit on Sep 22) and Sita Chuchura (no top because not in good condition, 19 Sept to 6400m). Returned to BC 25 Sept, when last burst of monsoon snowfall for 2 days of very heavy snowfall (1 m snow on NE Col in 24-30 hours) and then perfect weather. Plan was to go to top non-stop. Left BC 4 Oct (with Guggemos) and from C1 took his tent, etc. up to C2 sites 6700-6800m on NE Ridge. Kept going up (with Guggemos). Had agreement with French that French would make trail to C3 and Guggemos and Ochoa make it above since none experienced and with French in C3 at 7500m. Ochoa there at 4:00 am and Guggemos 5:00-5:30 am. This was key place to decide whether to follow ridge on make traverse around false summit; decided to to make traverse but snow conditions too dangerous from wind slabs, so abandoned that line to top and returned nearly to C3 to try ridge but it covered by deep powder snow. So both abandoned attempt and Ochoa in BC in 5 hours of the morning; Guggemos and French also came down. Climb finished because maybe 2-3 weeks before wind and snow conditions good enough.


expid: DHA102304
peakid: DHA1
year: 2002
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Vladislav Terzyul
sponsor: Independent climbers
ascent1: 108
countries: Russia
bcdate: 2002-09-24
smtdate: 2002-10-17
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2002-10-23
campsites: BC(24/09,4700m),C1(01/10,5900m),C2(02/10,6800m),C3(12/10,7500m),Smt(17/10)
accidents: Pestrikov frostbitten toes above C3 (may lose tips) and forefinger (will heal) only
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 4700m near French Expedition
  C1 at 5900m NE Col
  C2 at 6800m 10m from NE Ridge
  C3 at 7500m on NE Ridge.

  Porters refused to take loads beyond Hidden Valley, so had to shuttle gear during next days. In C1 and C2 made in snow holes because roomier, warmer and away from wind: in Caucasus always used snowholes rather than tents. Only at C3 used tent, but put it in crevasse. 1st time at C3 was 4 Oct for acclimatization and down to C2, 5 Oct to BC. But weather delayed movement up again (at BC about 1 meter of snow). Slept in C3 on 12 Oct. Decided not to make traverse above C3 because dangerous avalanching on face, so stayed on NE Ridge and made new fixed rope on ridge in places were mixed rock and snow dangerous and need to jummar; fixed total 400m (300m taken from below C3 fixed by French). 13th, 14th and 15th after sunshine on route they fixed ropes. Above C3 snow not deep but below it was so deep that used snowshoes here (snowshoes very slow but not possible to move without them). 16th climbed to false summit at 8000m; very disappointed to see true summit above, requiring descent before reaching it, thus returned to C3. 17th started up before 5:00 am climbing in dark, moved quickly since now big storm coming from Annapurna. Reached false summit and beyond to main summit at 3:00 pm and back to C3 6:00 pm in snowfall and wind and bad visability. Took all day on 18th to reach C2 because of avalanching; normally took 1 hour to go down to C2. 19th down past C1, intending to go to BC but forced to pitch tent in icefall at 5700m. 20 Oct 2:00 pm finally in BC. 23 Oct went to Marpha to bring up porters and left all gear in one tent at BC and when returned all gone ($8000 worth gear), probably taken by trekking group's porters.


expid: DORJ02301
peakid: DORJ
year: 2002
route1: W Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Denis Etienne
sponsor: Terres d'Adventure Joint Expedition to Dorje Lhakpa
ascent1: 16th
approach: Dunche->Syabrubesi->Langtang Khola->Langshisa Kharka
bcdate: 2002-10-12
smtdate: 2002-10-23
termdate: 2002-10-26
campsites: BC(12/10,4400m),C1(17/10,5400m),C2(22/10,6200m),Smt(23/10)
agency: Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
routememo:
  BC at 4400m Langshisa Glacier
  C1 at 5400m foot of West Ridge
  C2 at 6200m on West Ridge.

  On summit day clear, but very cold strong wind that caused Moulherac to abandon her summit bid at about 6850m and return to C2 while Etienne and Mathieu down to BC, knowing only of his frostbite and not of Moulherac's. All in BC 24 Oct.

  Most of rope from C1 to top.


expid: EVER02301
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: N Col-NE Ridge (up), N Face (Hornbein) (down)
nation: France
leaders: Marco Siffredi
sponsor: France
ascent1: 452
bcdate: 2002-08-11
smtdate: 2002-09-08
smttime: 1145
termdate: 2002-09-15
campsites: BC(14/08,5200m),ABC(23/08,6400m),C1(28/08,7000m),C2(02/09,7700m),C3(07/09,8300m),Smt(08/09)
accidents: Nothing except fatality
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C2 on North Ridge
  C3 on North Face.

  16th Siffredi to Pangbo at bottom of North Face to where he could see by telescope his entire route. Spent 16th then and left camp there for his descent. 17th to BC. 21st to interim camp at 5800m before ABC, then on up mountain. All summiters used oxygen slogging through chest deep snow and used 22 bottles from C2's low altitude to keep warm. Sherpas returned to ABC 8 Sept at 10:00 pm. At top summiters waited 1 hour at top in perfect weather and clear on top, but waited for lower clouds to disperse. 3 pm Siffredi started snowboard descent and Sherpas then returned to ABC. Snow perfect for snowboarding. Siffredi's tracks fixed at 8600m and nothing more could be seen there at bottom of face or anyone between.

  Besson arrived BC 2nd Sept 8 at ABC; saw Siffredi start down and then out of sight and no more information about Siffredi. Went to C1 on 12th and spent day looking through telescope. 13th to ABC and left BC 15th.


  Besson - 17th Nov 02

  He arrived at BC 2nd Sept, ABC 7 Sept, C1 at North Col 9 Sept, but went down to ABC same day (had gone up for acclimatization). On 8 Sept from ABC he saw through binoculars Siffredi and Sherpa reach summit at 2:00 pm Chinese Time (11:45 NST) from their C3 at 8300m after an 11-hour climb according to Sherpa summiters who returned to ABC at midnight. From ABC Besson also saw Siffredi start his snowboard descent at 3:00 pm (12:45 NST) after waiting for cloud cover to break up. From ABC Besson saw no more snowboard tracks below 8600m, saw no black snowboard or Siffredi's yellow clothing or any other trace of him.


expid: EVER02302
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Brazil
leaders: Waldemar Niclevicz
sponsor: Brazilian Expedition to the Top of the World
bcdate: 2002-08-24
smtdate: 2002-10-02
termdate: 2002-10-09
termnote: Abandoned at 8250m due to high winds
othersmts: Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-023-02)
accidents: Nothing serious; Santos tooth problem at 7400m and Wellner stomach trouble at S Col
achievment: 1st Brazilian ascent of Lhotse
agency: Thamserku Trekking
campsites:
  BC(24/08,5750m),C1(06/09,6150m),(05/09,6050m),C2(11/09,6550m),C3(15/09,7300m),C4((02/10,7800m),xxx(02/10,8250m)

routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 at West Cwm
  C3 at Lhotse face
  Ev C4 at South Col
  Lhotse C4 at Lhotse Face.

  Had problem setting C1 in good place: 1st one unstable, 2nd one could be hit by avalanche, if not well over to right. Lhotse Face in very good condition but needed ice screws in some parts; elsewhere snow not too deep. In Western Cwm deep snow came below C2, but above no snow problem.

  1st went to Everest: arrived at South Col on 2nd Oct and at 11:00 pm Burda, Nicleviez, Mingma Nuru and Mingma Tshering started up. At about 8200-8300m dangerous snow slab avalanche: Burda and Mingma Nuru carried down 150m with slab but not hurt; wind 40-50 kph blowing snow in face and -10 degrees C. Down to C4 at 4:00 am 3 Oct. Waited that day for attempt again that night but 2 of 3 Sherpas went down. Again at 11:00 pm wanted to try again, but wind 60 km/h, too strong and very cold (-30 degrees C inside tent).

  4 Oct moved C4 to Lhotse Face 7850m and afternoon "weather was wonderful." Pitched Lhotse C4 at 12:00 noon. Rested all day and Burda and Niclevicz left camp at 3:00 am; were tired so let Koreans open route ahead of them. Climbed 100m behind Koreans and arrived at Lhotse top 9:30 am and stayed 2-1/2 hours enjoyed view and taking pictures. Down to C2 at 6:30 pm (after dark using head lamps), very tired. Climb now finished.

  Oxygen use in C4 (South Col) for sleeping and awake by Burda, Niclevicz and Wellner (1st night - then left), Mingma Nuru, Mingma Tshering; also up from Col and back there - used while moving C4 (Mingma Tshering moved camp with them and used oxygen), then he went down while 2 Brazilians stayed in Lhotse C4. Brazilians did not use it in Lhotse C4, but did going to Lhotse summit and back to Lhotse C4 only.

  Souza wanted to do some climbing, but his base camp duties let him go only into Icefall.


expid: EVER02303
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Owen Davies
sponsor: Are We there Yet Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2002-09-10
smtdate: 2002-09-21
termdate: 2002-09-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(10/09),ABC(13/09,6400m),C1(20/09,7000m),xxx(21/09,7100m)
accidents: Flu from BC but slow moving up and robbed his strength
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  High point at just above North Col.

  21st tried to break trail up from C1, but snow up to chest while Sherpa went down to get food, then series of new snowfalls and Davies tripped in C1 alone while Dawa Sherpa in ABC. Dawa sent kitchen boy with message to LO in BC on 25th saying Davies missing and send up yaks to evacuate him and baggage from ABC. 

  Davies on 21st started down in deep snow and set off slab avalanches in descent; took about 10 hours to descend in waist and chest deep snow. Dawa and 1 kitchen boy asleep in ABC. Staff did not know he was there and he slept till 5:00 pm, coughed and staff realized he was present. Couldn't have gone back up with snow so deep and slab avalanche danger too great.


expid: EVER02304
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Eiichi Usami
sponsor: Team Ukyo Mt. Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2002-08-25
smtdate: 2002-10-05
termdate: 2002-10-07
termnote: Abandoned at 8750m due to dangerous cornices
campsites: BC(25/08),C1(07/09,6100m),C2(14/09,6400m),C3(17/09,7300m),C4(03/10,7900m),xxx(05/10,8750m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  C4 at South Col
  High point at South Summit.

  Slow getting to South Col because much snowfall. Also 4 Oct more snow. 5 Oct summit attack by Usami, Katayama, Phurba Chhiri, his brothers Lhakpa and Da Tendi, but could not go higher than South Summit because of many dangerous cornices. Left C4 at 1:00 am knee deep snow above, reached South Summit at 1:00 pm, down to C4 at 4:00 pm.

  No second attempt because Usami and Katayama didn't have strength to try again.

  On 4 Oct waited in C4 for summit bid because strong wind that day. Fixed 3000m rope on Lhotse Face, up to C4 and to South Summit. Oxygen used sleeping in C3, up to C4, sleeping in C4, to South Summit down to C4 and sleeping C4 by 2 Japanese; Sherpas used it sleeping in C4, to South Summit and again sleeping in C4. 

  6 Oct all to C2 and climb finished. Katayama left BC 7 Oct to go to his work in Japan.


expid: EVER02305
peakid: EVER
year: 2002
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Se-Jung
sponsor: 2002 South Korea
bcdate: 2002-09-03
smtdate: 2002-10-04
termdate: 2002-10-08
termnote: Abandoned at 8400m due to snow avalanching
othersmts: Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-023-03)
campsites: BC(03/09),C1(11/09,6100m),C2(15/09,6400m),C3(25/09,7300m),C4(02/10,7900m),xxx(04/10,8400m)
agency: Echo Himal
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 at West Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 Everest at South Col.

  Lee Se-Jung, Park, Lee Woo-Kyung and Serap Jangbu up from Col and reached just under Balcony at 8400m in 4 hours and then snow avalanche coming down; no one hurt, but party returned to C4 to sleep and 4 Oct to C2. They all used oxygen sleeping in C4 and climbing up from Col and sleeping again in C4 but no longer. Everest climbing finished.

  All Lhotse summiters used oxygen on low flow sleeping night of 5 Oct and full flow climbing to top and down to C4 on 5 Oct but going down same day from C4 (Lhotse) to C2 not using it. Expedition finished. All down in BC 6 Oct. Lhotse Summiters were on top 1 hour before Brazilians.

  Sherpa Lhotse Summiters: 
    Lhakpa Tshering, Khumjung, Everest X1, Annapurna I X1
    Ang Babu, aka Jimba Zangbu, Khumjung, Lhotse 5/01, Xixa X1
    Serap Jangbu, Khumjung, 5 8000ers & Lhotse 4/01


expid: GYAC02301
peakid: GYAC
year: 2002
route1: N Face (Slovenian Aut 99 route)
nation: Japan
leaders: Yasushi Yamanoi
sponsor: Japanese Team on Gyachung Kang
ascent1: 9th
approach: By road KTM->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2002-09-16
smtdate: 2002-10-08
termdate: 2002-10-14
campsites: BC(16/09,5800m),ABC(20/09,6100m),Biv1(06/10,6550m),Biv2(07/10,7500m),Smt(08/10)
accidents: Both members very serious frostbite following avalanche hitting Yasushi
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  ABC at Gyachung Glacier 
  Biv 1 at North Face
  Biv 2 at North Face
  Biv 3 at North Face
  Biv 4 at North Face in descent.

  Pasang Gyalzen Sherpa (BC staff) - Dec 15, 2002

  Notes from Hawley interview

  Mr. Yasushi Yamanoi and his wife Taeko were hospitalized in Tokyo for the amputation of dozens of fingers due to frostbite. Taeko and Yasushi, two of Japan's premier alpinists, attempted Gyachung Kang (7985m) via the Slovenian Route this October. They arrived at base camp on October 5 and proceeded to an advanced base camp at the foot of the Slovenian Route. On October 7 they continued climbing to 7500m and bivouacked. On Oct 8 it began snowing and at 7600m Taeko gave up climbing and decided to wait for Yasushi. Yasushi returned after reaching the summit solo, and reunited with Taeko, made another bivouac. Snow continued on Oct 9 and they descended to 7200m meters and bivouacked. While descending in the continous snow on Oct 10, Taeko was hit by avalanche, losing her right glove and vision in her left eye. Later the same day Yasushi also lost vision in both eyes. They managed to descend to their advanced base camp where they found none of their support team members. A ten-hour descent on Oct 12 led them to a bivouac on the glacier, Taeko still had no vision. On Oct 13 they arrived at their base camp to learn that their support team had assumed they had disappeared and would not return. They were immediately taken to the hospital in KTM and were flown to the hospital in Tokyo on October 18. 

  BC(10/05,5700m),ABC(10/05,5830m),Biv1(10/06,7000m),Biv2(10/07,7500m),
    Biv3(10/08,7600m),Biv4(10/09,7200m),Smt(10/08)


expid: GYAJ02301
peakid: GYAJ
year: 2002
route1: N Face (via 2 lines)
nation: Belgium
leaders: Peter Van den Bossche
sponsor: International Gyajikang Expedition
countries: Netherlands
approach: Air to Manang->NE to Koto->NW on Naur Khola->Phugaon
bcdate: 2002-10-24
smtdate: 2002-11-01
termdate: 2002-11-02
termnote: Abandoned at 6250m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(24/10,5000m),C1(27/10,5700m),xxx(01/11,6250m)
accidents: Van der Bossche stomach trouble
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC at 5000m of mountain, grass for yaks but no water
  C1 at col between East Ridge & North Face
  High point at gully on North Face.

  From BC Van der Aar went up North Face on right side of icefall to Col between East Ridge and North Face and slept in C1 27 Oct. 28 Oct to BC because deep snow above. Van der Aar and Sherpa Kami Rita to C1. 1 Nov kept going up through deep snow covered by thin layer ice which was very tiring so down at 6250m and down to BC. 

  Thiery alone on 30 Oct from BC up North Face via small ridge east of other's route up to 6000m at top of ridge to see if less technical route that way or another way (but van der Aar's route not technical, he says).

  25 Oct leader got stomach trouble and no climbing. 


expid: HIML02301
peakid: HIML
year: 2002
route1: W Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
sponsor: Terres d'Adventure Himlung Expedition
ascent1: 5th
approach: Beshisehar->Marshyangdi River->Koto->Phu Khola->Phugaon
bcdate: 2002-10-06
smtdate: 2002-10-16
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2002-10-18
campsites: BC(06/10,4650m),C1(09/10,5250m),C2(11/10,5600m),C3(12/10,6200m),C4(15/10,6100m),Smt(16/10)
agency: Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
routememo:
  BC west of mountain on grass
  C1 at start of glacier
  C2 on snow covered West Ridge
  C3 on West Ridge
  C4 on West Ridge.

  Some problem with snow, so Grobel made track by wearing snowshoes; "I think without snow shoes we don't go up." Snow a problem just to C3. BC too low; better to make it higher at 4900m near small lake left by retreating glacier.

  On 13 Oct Grobel and all other 16 Oct summiters except De Boysson, Phurba and Mingma had tried for top from C3 but deep snow made climbers too tired, so 1 hour below top, turned back to C3 and then made another C4. 

  Route "too easy" to fix rope but "for comfort" fixed 20m rope between C2 and C3. Stayed on top from 12:30 to 1:30 pm together.


expid: JANU02301
peakid: JANU
year: 2002
route1: N Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Erhard Loretan
sponsor: Swiss Expedition Jannu
bcdate: 2002-09-07
smtdate: 2002-10-02
termdate: 2002-10-07
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to dangerous avalanching
campsites: BC(07/09,4600m),C1(15/09,5400m),xxx(02/10,6600m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Khumbhakarna Glacier
  C1 on rock at top ot 1st pillar, just below plateau

  Fixed rope from 4700m almost all the way to high point (not on glacier, only on steep sections). On 2 Oct got to 6600m and many snow and rock avalanching from upper face. Steck hit by snow and ice avalanche but not hurt ("just lucky" he says). Had been snowing from one weak before this. Down to C1 and decided to abandon climb next day because of dangerous avalanching. Got direct sun only 1 hour/day so was very cold. 4 Oct went up from C1 to bring down gear and was very cold and windy.


expid: JANU02401
peakid: JANU
year: 2002
route1: S Face (French Spr 1962)
nation: Spain
leaders: Manuel Gonzalez Diaz
sponsor: Andalucia Jannu 2002
approach: Bus to Taplejung, Gumsa E for Ramatori Khola->Yamatori Glacier
bcdate: 2002-11-06
smtdate: 2002-11-22
termdate: 2002-12-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to dangerous snow conditions
othersmts: Climbed Tso Kang South (all 7 members)
campsites: BC(06/11,4500m),ABC.Depot1(11/11,5000m),Depot2(13/11,5600m),C1(19/11,5850m),xxx(22/11,24,6200m)
agency: Himalayan Culture Treks
routememo:
  BC  at Yamatori Glacier's Dudh Pokhari; SSW of mountain
  ABC at Providence Glacier - slept in one night only
  Dep II at Providence Spur North
  C1  at Providence Glacier

  Providence Glacier "terrible" with icefall and rubble. To avoid icefall, climbers left this Glacier onto Providence Spur North and then returned to Glacier to place C1. From C1 attempts to get to C2 site at 6400m near Tete du Butoir but never higher than 6200m. 

  1st attempt on 20 Nov by Sanchez, Morales, Salazar and Fernandez-Vivancos reached 6000m at Col des Jennes fixing rope and down to C1. 2nd attempt by on 21 Nov by same four members continued fixing ropes above Col on the S ridge of Tete du Butoir (Buffer Peak) to 6100m and back to C1: powdered snow was very difficult making progress very slow. 3rd attempt 22 Nov by Salazar, Carvajal, Vazquez; reached 6200m continuing to fix ropes on same ridge with same powdered snow and again tried to fix ropes, but very dangerous because all ropes not really securely fixed, so down to C1. Rested and 2 Sherpas arrived at C1 on 22nd and the 24th Sherpas Lhakpa Dorje and Dawa and Salazar and Gonzalez arrived at 6200m and down to C1; had checked fact that really not possible to go higher and climb finished. 

  Fixed 200m ropes in couloir from Providence Glacier to Spur, 30m to Col and 150m to C1 in different places including down into 10m deep crevasses and up out of it. 400m from C1 to 6200m, 200m to col and 300 more to high point.

  Gonzalez cut his right thigh by crampon cutting it during descent from C1 in crevasses and on Tso Kang South broke same leg's small bone in foot while going from Tso Kang South to see possibility of climbing Nyukla Lachum. But not climbing after Gonzalez's accident in very unstable rocky area (one rock fell on his foot).


  Tso Kang South (1st ascent)

  Tso Kang South was climbed on Nov 30 by all 7 members plus Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa, Dawa Sherpa and Sawan Sherpa.

  From C1 crossed Providence Spur Central into Providence Glacier South and up NE Face in route not difficult and "enjoyable." Slope 60 degrees; needed 150m rope above C2 near summit.

  BC(06/11,4500m),C1(28/11,5400m),C2(29/11,5650m),Smt(30/11)                                                                                                                                                                                                  

accidents:
  Gonzalez serious cut leg followed by broken bone in right foot while crossing glacier after climbing Tso Kang South


expid: KGUR02301
peakid: KGUR
year: 2002
route1: SW Face-NW Ridge (same as French-German exped)
nation: France
leaders: Yves Gourgaud
sponsor: French Team to Kang Guru
ascent1: 24th
approach: Beshisahar->Marshyangdi Riv->Naur Khola->Meta
bcdate: 2002-10-26
smtdate: 2002-11-05
termdate: 2002-11-09
campsites: BC(26/10,4200m),C1(01/11,5400m),C2(04/11,5800m),Smt(05/11)
accidents: Laot very slightly frostbitten finger
agency: Makalu Adventure
routememo:
  5 Nov summit party left C2 for top. 7 members in party: 2 summiters, both Gourgauds, Pacchin, Claire David, Didier Andre and 2 Nepali summiters. 300m above C2 Bernadette turned back (tired too cold) and back to C1; Claire 500m above C2 (also too cold) to C1; other 3 50m below summit (strong wind and snowfalling), then back to C2. 

  No second summit bid because of snowfall. All in BC 6 Nov. Fixed 600m rope between C2 and top on steep face below ridge.

  Nepali summiters: 
    Tham Bahadur Magar, 38 years, Bagar village, Myagdi Dist 
       Ama Dablam summit Aut 1990 and Aut 1995; 
       Everest South Col US (Porzak), Spr 1990 expedition
    Pemba Sherpa, Makalu VDC, 30 years, no 8000ers

  Expedition arrived KTM 18 Oct, left on expedition 20 Oct; returned 19 Nov, left Nepal 21 Nov (Tibet Guest House).


  Email to Miss Hawley:

  Those who reached the top are Bruno Grossetete who reached the top with Tham Bahadur (Tilija) and Roger Laot with Pemba Sherpa.

  The Kang Guru is a very nice mountain, not too difficult but very interesting with a nice ridge.

  We were sad to not reach the top (one friend with us was very tired and moreover the weather was bad: snow and fog) but everybody went down without problem: it is the more important.

  Our Nepalese team really was very good, strong and kind. Their help had been very valuable.


expid: KIRA02301
peakid: KIRA
year: 2002
route1: W Face
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Gregor Kresal
sponsor: Himalaya Janak 2002
countries: France, UK
bcdate: 2002-10-03
smtdate: 2002-10-24
termdate: 2002-10-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to lack of time on summit day
othersmts: Attempted Ramtang Chang (RAMC-023-01)
campsites: BC(03/10,5100m),ABC(22/10,5500m),Biv(23/10,5800m),xxx(24/10,6700m)
agency: Wilderness Experience
primid: RAMC02301
routememo:
  BC at Pangpema
  ABC at Pyramid Glacier below West Face
  Biv at West face
  High point at West Face.

  Because of climbing delay due to doctor's false claim that she had typhus, team not acclimatized above BC's altitude and now had only 5 days left to make ABC and looked at West Face to decide on good line up it. All 7 Kirat Chuli members; Pasang Tenzing, Padam Tenzing and Uthar Tamang to carry loads to ABC. 

  23 Oct all 7 members started West Face and got to 5800m just below steepest part of wall and bived there. 24th Oct tried to push to top and all got to 6700m, after summiting all steep rock (25%), not very difficult, and above was snowfield, at 4:00-4:30 pm and then too late and climb abandoned; slept again at biv. 25th and 26th down to BC. Very strong wind through Kirat Chuli climb.


  Tuesday Oct 29, 7:33 pm - Reuters interview by Mr Gopal Sharma

  Nepal rebels held foreign climbers at gunpoint

  Kathmandu - Four suspected Maoist rebels held several foreign mountain climbers at gunpoint in Eastern Nepal demanding $7000 to let them go, team members said on Tuesday.

  The hold up happened in late Sept at Chiruwa, 500 km east of KTM, as the climbers hiked to a base camp in the Kangchenjunga area, said team leader Gregor Kresal.
  "The climbers were caught by the Maoists who locked them up in a lodge demanding money," Kresal, a Slovenia, told Reuters after flying to KTM by helicopter.

  The climbers told the gang all their money was with colleagues already up the mountain and they were freed unharmed after a few hours. But they were told to pay on their way down.

  Climbers say the rebels, fighting to topple the monarchy and establish communist rule, often steal cash, cameras and other items from tourist, although the rebel leadership denies this.

  There was no comment from the rebels on the latest incident.

  British climber and team member Stevie Haston, who also returned to KTM on Tuesday, said the Maoist held the climbers at gunpoint.

  "The Maoists kept them for a short time. They were demanding $7000," the 45 year old Haston, one of British's best known mountaineers, told Reuters.

  Kresal said his team was afraid that the Maoist might comfront them again on their way out after the climb.

  "So we decided to fly out of the area to avoid the rebels," he said.

  The rest of the 11-member team -- Haston's French wife, Laurence Gouault Haston, and eight Slovenians -- are still waiting at Ghunsa village for a helicopter pick-up.

  Kresal and Haston -- who were not among those held by the gang -- flew in small helicopter with a sick Danish climber being evacuated from the same area.

  Each year, thousand of tourists, including trekkers and mountain climbers, visit Nepal, home to dozens of major peaks including the world's highest, Mountain Everest.

  But Tourism has been hit by the Maoist rebellion and foreign travel warnings. More than 5100 people have been killed since the increasingly bloody revolt began in 1996.

  In the latest violence, 10 rebels and four policemen died in separate clashes over the past 24 hours, officials said.


expid: KYAZ02301
peakid: KYAZ
year: 2002
route1: SE Ridge (to 5600m)
route2: SW Ridge (to summit)
nation: France
leaders: Duncan Wilson
sponsor: Kyazo Ri expedition
ascent2: 1st
countries: UK
approach: Lukla->Dole->Machhermo
bcdate: 2002-10-13
smtdate: 2002-10-20
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2002-10-22
campsites: BC(10/10,4645m),C1(14/10,5540m),C2(18/10,5560m),Smt(20/10)
achievment: 1st ascent
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 4645m at west end of valley running west from Machhermo
  C1 at 5240m foot of East Face
  C2 at 5560m start of SE Ridge.

  19 Oct all 5 members left C2 at 7:00 am for summit bid via SE Ridge but technical rock climbing made progress slow and at 10:00 were only at 5600m. Much too late to get to top and return safely, so abandoned this route and back to C2 at 5:00 am, then Marche and Wilson set out alone for top via Kyazo Glacier and northwest from the Glacier via small valley to the SW Ridge and up ridge to top at 2:00 pm in perfect weather. SW Ridge was a snow ridge separating NE and South Faces, needed 2 ice axes to progress, steepness averaged 55 degrees, techically not very hard. Left top at 3:00 pm and back to C2 9:00 pm and climb finished. 21 Oct to BC.


  Routh Description (right and left are relative to direction of progress)

  BC to C1:

  Follow valley floor west then grassy spur (cairns) which leads steeply to the rock and snow covered plateau (5030m) that rises more gently towards Machhermo Glacier to the north. From the edge of plateau, follow more cairns northwest and established C1 in a shallow hollow near the highest point of the plateau before it heads slightly down towards Machhermo Glacier. A melt-water stream can be found by heading downhill in a NE direction for around 200m. The site is close to avalanche and serac falls from the hanging glacier on the East Face of Kyazo Ri, but appears to be out of any direct danger.

  C1 to C2:

  Retrace the last 20m of the route from BC in order to skirt below the avalanche and serac exposed zone below the hanging glacier on the East Face of Kyazo Ri. Head back up hill to the west and attain the base of a 50m high rock band on its right-hand edge. The rock band gives access to the foot of a glacier that rises to the south. Climb the rock band about 50m to the right of an obvious ice couloir. The easiest route zigzags through the rock in an overall right to left movement in two short pitches, making use of ledges and gently inclined corners. Sufficient protection is possible in rock cracks and around blocks. Climb the glacier to above the rimaye [moat], initially by the rock covered right-hand edge, later by the middle in order to avoid wide crevasses, crossing the occaasional snow bridge. Aim for the foot of the mixed faced above the glacier that gives access to the col at 5550m defining the foot of the SE Ridge of Kyazo Ri. The right-hand side of the face (giving the most direct access to the col) is vertical and very compact. The route used begins some 120m to the left of the point closest to the col. A steep initial 15m up a slabby corner (difficult in poor snow conditions) leads to a gently rising terrace system that gives access over progressively easier terrain to the col. The whole traverse can be done in 2 long pitches of around 70m each. A good piton belay is possible atop a large boulder in the middle of the traverse. Access to the boulder is problematic, and best made on its right hand edge on poor rock. Pitons and friends are essential to properly protect this traverse. From the col, make slightly descending traverse on verglaced rocks on the west side of the col in a northwest direction to attain the edge of the highest serac of a small dying glacier. With care, and given favourable snow and serac conditions, the flat top of this serac can provide a comfortable campsite, relatively protected from the considerable rock fall occuring during the day on the South Face of Kyazo Ri.

  C2 to Summit

  The easiest passage from C2 to the summit begins by descending southwest to the huge flat Kyazo Glacier, by the snow and boulder slopes just to the left of C2 glacier. Once on Kyazo Glacier, head northwest and follow the rock-covered north edge of the glacier to the bottom of the ravine that separates Kyazo Ri from point 5925, and leads to the glacial col at 5700m marking the beginning of the SW Ridge. Climb the ravine easily, keeping left to avoid potential serac fall, to the snow slopes of the col. From here the route is mostly on snow and ice. From the col the SW Ridge rises at an average 50 degrees in a fairly smooth sweep to the summit. Most of the remaining route is not visible. Follow the ridge northeast, keeping mostly on the crest, passing through some steeper sections caused by contrictions between rocky outcrops. Rock belays are possible on the right every 50m to 100m, but on the first ascent the climbers moved together, using the occasional Deadman for protection. Much of the route is exposed to serac fall from small seracs lying very high on the ridge. Debris on the col is witness to this. The last section of the ridge (from 6100m) becomes somewhat steeper and sharper, and the climbing is more delicate with rocks a few inches below the surface. A significant rock outcrop defines the right hand edge of the ridge a this age. Traverse right to the rock, at the level of an obvious ledge, some 20m above the lowest point. The summit is now reached in three long pitches. Traverse the outcrop to the right using the ledge and climb the moderately inclined snow slope on the right hand edge of the rock. The rock provides ample opportunity for good gear placements steeply to skirt the right-hand edge of the top of the rock outcrop then once above the rocks gain the left-hand arete defining the snow couloir that opens above and leads to the summit edge. Follow the arete which merges into the summit slopes and continue to the summit ridge and summit shortly afterwards. The summit is a narrow (40cm) ridge of snow separating the steep rocky S Face from the very steep mixed NE Face. It provides a fantastic view of all the Khumbu summits, many of which it dominates, being the highest point in the Kyazo Ri massif.

  Descent from Summit to C2:

  It is possible to retrace the same route used to climb to the summit. However, a shortcut can be made to avoid the ravine, and the long climb back up from Kyazo Glacier to C2. The shortcut involves a 50m abseil from the south side of the rocks that define the south edge of the snowy SW Ridge used for the ascent. Head for the last rock platform on the left of the SW Ridge, some 150m above the 5700m col. Traverse a steepening boulder covered slope in an easterly direction as far as reasonably possible, in order to reduce the necessary abseil distance to the glacier below. Abseil down the mostly overhanging rock wall below to gain the glacier below. Traverse the glacier at the same towards the southease and descend a gentle snow then rocky slope in the same direction until the top of steepening rock slabs. Head of the SW and descend a couple of steep steps. Contour the buttress below by a descending traverse to the right (some cairns) then to the left as soon as the terrain permits. Reach a shoulder from which the long traverse east to C2 is now completely visible. Traverse to C2 keeping more or less at the same altitude.

  Descent from C2 to C1:

  Regain the 5550m col. Descend to the glacier to the northeast of the col in two 50m abseils, using the rocks to the right of the snow couloir for the second belay. Retrace the route to the top of the first rock band at the foot of the glacier. In one 50m abseil at its left edge regain the foot of the rocks and the end of the technical difficulties.


expid: KYAZ02302
peakid: KYAZ
year: 2002
route1: NE Face
nation: USA
leaders: Matt Fioretti
sponsor: American Kyazo Ri Expedition
approach: Lukla->Dole->Machhermo
bcdate: 2002-10-21
smtdate: 2002-10-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6130m due to lack of rope and 2 members not well
campsites: BC(21/10,4800m),C1(10/10,5600m),xxx(10/10,6130m)
accidents: Nothing serious but 2 members got slightly ill
agency: Adventure Karnali
routememo:
  BC west of Machhermo on flat spot east of mountain
  C1 south of glacier east of mountain
  High point at SE Ridge.

  Difficult route so fixed 150m rope between BC and high camp and 200m above high camp; now had run out of rope and needed more to finish climb. Also 2 members not well and so climb abandoned. Gombu Sherpa guided team throughout climb.

  28th Oct Esapule, Fioretti, and Sabsowitz up from BC for summit push and slept in C1. Sabsowitz not acclimatized well and not feeling strong so stayed at C1 while other 3 went for top on difficult climb 60-70 degrees mixed ice and rock on hard wall onto SE Ridge on mixed rock and ice to top (50 degrees). 60m below summit had to turn back 6:00 pm and beginning to get dark (excellent weather). Now slept in C1 at about 8:30 pm (had headlamps and BC 29 Oct. Now no more time and "coming down in the dark took a lot out of us."

  Kendall Dewey left expedition on second day of approach march as he missed his girl friend terribly.


expid: LHOT02301
peakid: LHOT
year: 2002
route1: W Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Toichiro Mitani
sponsor: Meiji University Lhotse Expedition
ascent1: 77th,80th
bcdate: 2002-09-01
smtdate: 2002-10-03
smttime: 0920
termdate: 2002-10-14
campsites: BC(01/09,5350m),C1(10/09,6000m),C2(14/09,6450m),C3(22/09,7200m),C4(02/10,7750m),Smt(03,08/10)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 on Western Cwm
  C3 on West Face
  C4 on West Face below couloir.

  After placing gear at C4 site 23 Sept, down to BC for rest. Left C4 for top at 4:00 am and reached top 9:20 am in very clear weather (could see into W Cwm) and Japanese down to C2, Lhakpa Rita to BC. 

  8 Oct from C4 7:15 am only because very strong wind and small avalanche had waited for better conditions. Amano had left C4 at midnight and reached entrance to couloir (8100m) at 2.30 cms down to C4 at 3:00 am because strong wind and small avalanches came down couloir and climbers had to stay at one side of it or the other. Then he went up again with other 2 members and Sherpa to summit. Reached top 12:35 pm (Kato and Mitani) and 1:10 pm (Amano and Sherpa). All in this summit party slept in C3 that night.

  Oxygen: Amano never used it. Other members sometimes sleeping in C3; all 5 sleeping in C4, climbing from C4 to top and back to C4 only; both sherpas sleeping in C4, up to top and back to C4 only.


expid: LHOT02302
peakid: LHOT
year: 2002
route1: W Face
nation: Brazil
leaders: Waldemar Niclevicz
sponsor: Brazilian Expedition to the Top of the World
ascent1: 79th
bcdate: 2002-08-24
smtdate: 2002-10-05
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2002-10-09
othersmts: Attempted Everest (EVER-023-02)
achievment: 1st Brazilian ascent of Lhotse
agency: Thamserku Trekking
campsites:
  BC(24/08,5350m),C1(06/09,6150m),C1(05/09,6050m),C2(11/09,6550m),C3(15/09,7300m),C4(04/10,7850m),Smt(05/10)

routememo:
  Had problem setting C1 in good place: 1st one unstable, 2nd one could be hit by avalanche, if not well over to right. Lhotse Face in very good condition but needed ice screws in some parts; elsewhere snow not too deep. In W Cwm deep snow came below C2 but above no snow problem.

  1st went to Everest: arrived at South Col on 2nd Oct and at 11:00 pm Burda, Nicleviez, Mingma Nuru and Mingma Tshering started up. At about 8200-8300m dangerous snow slab avalanche: Burda and Mingma Nuru carried down 150m with slab but not hurt; wind 40-50 kph blowing snow in face and -10 degrees C. Down to C4 at 4:00 am 3 Oct. Waited that day for attempt again that night but 2 of 3 Sherpas went down. Again at 11:00 pm wanted to try again, but wind 60 km, too strong and very cold (-30 degrees C inside tent).

  4 Oct moved C4 to Lhotse Face 7850m and afternoon "weather was wonderful." Pitched Lhotse C4 at 12:00 noon. Rested all day and Burda and Niclevicz left camp at 3:00 am; were tired so let Koreans open route ahead of them. Climbed 100m behind Koreans and arrived at Lhotse top 9:30 am and stayed 2-1/2 hours enjoyed view and taking pictures. Down to C2 at 6:30 pm (after dark using head lamps), very tired. Climb now finished.

  Oxygen use in C4 (South Col) for sleeping and awoke by Burda, Niclevicz and Wellner (1st night - then left), Mingma Nuru, Mingma Tshering; also up from Col and back there - used while moving C4 (Mingma Tshering moved camp with them and used oxygen), then he went down while 2 Brazilians stayed in Lhotse C4. Brazilians did not use it in Lhotse C4, but did going to Lhotse summit and back to Lhotse C4 only.

  Souza wanted to do some climbing, but his back camp duties let him go only into Icefall.


expid: MAK202301
peakid: MAK2
year: 2002
route1: S Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Javier Ugarte Andreva
sponsor: Himalaya Adventure Makalu II Expedition
ascent1: 27th
bcdate: 2002-09-29
smtdate: 2002-10-13
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2002-10-14
othersmts: Island Peak on 18 Sept 20m below top by both members and both Sherpas
campsites: BC(29/09,5400m),C1(04/10,6200m),C2(06/10,7000m),Smt(13/10)
agency: Himalayan Adventures
routememo:
  BC at above glacier junction
  C1 at Chago Glacier
  C2 at below Makalu La

  Could not make C2 at Makalu La because trekking agent's tent not good enough for wind-swept pass. 10 Oct could go down and went to BC because of dangerous snow conditions. 

  7th Oct made first attempt on summit and almost to Makalu La (to 7300m) by both members and both Sherpas at 12:00 noon, too late for summit bid and down to C2 that night. Then bad weather on 8th and 9th and now not possible to go up or down because of avalanching. 10 Oct to BC. 

  Decided to make 2nd bid and go very fast with ropes already fixed between C2 and 7300m. 12 Oct 8:00 am both Sherpas and Ugarte started up (Sofia remained in BC) and in C2 at 5:30 pm, very cold, very windy but loads very light. 13 Oct 2:00 am 3 climbers up from C2 in dark and no room: climbed on East Face of South Ridge to 20-25m below top and here joined ridge and to top via ridge 2:00 pm. Ugarte exhausted at top; Sherpas also very tired at top. "I don't know how we reached the summit, but we did" and stayed there only 10-15 minutes and down from top on east side of ridge because very steep down ridge. Reached C2 at sunset 6:00 pm and slept there. Down from C2 5:30 am at sunrise to BC at 11:00 am. Left BC same day because Sherpas had to get to KTM quickly for another group. Down via Hillary BC, to Jark Kharka that night, then down to Tashigaon. 18 Oct arrived Khandbari and 19th Tumlingtar and KTM.


expid: NUMR02301
peakid: NUMR
year: 2002
route1: W Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Olaf Rieck
sponsor: Numri Expedition 2002
ascent1: 1st
approach: Chhukung village
bcdate: 2002-10-21
smtdate: 2002-11-07
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2002-11-16
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(21/10,5140m),C1(26/10,5662m),C2(06/11,6185m),Smt(07/11)
accidents: Schmidt slight frostbite; nothing else serious
achievment: 1st ascent on 1st attempt
agency: Multi Adventure
routememo:
  BC at Imja Glacier's north side, south of Island Peak.
  C1 at peak east of Imja's Glacier and Lhotse Shar Glacier junction
  C2 at ice cave at top of 2nd Glacier.

  Before going to Numri, expedition divided into 2 teams and one went first to Island Peak while other team went directly to Numri. Hoffmann, Stueck and Tauchnitz summited Island Peak on 29 Oct and then went to Numri; other 4 members meanwhile set up C1 and C2. 

  Summit bid on 7 Nov by Rieck, Schmidt and Miss Schubert: they had already fixed 200m of rope to 6350m on 6th Nov slept in C2: and they made summit push on 7th, fixed 150m from 6350m to top. Summit party left C2 for top at 7:30 am on 7th and reached top, after slow progress and fixing rope, at 3:00 pm; descent to C2 to sleep also delayed by removing ropes as they descended. 

  A second summit party of Hoffman, Miss Morche and Stueck had not gone above C2 for summit bid because Hoffman and Miss Morche were mildly sick (stomach trouble for Hoffman, bad cough for Morche). Route was difficult up sections of deep snow such as 2nd Glacier; no good anchors, 30 degree average steepness of route. There was also avalanche danger: Morche's backpack was hit by falling ice chunk at about 5900m as large section of 2nd Glacier seen in attached postcard broke off with loud crash while expedition was climbing; also slab avalanche danger.

  The altitude for C1 5662m is taken from National Geographic Mount Everest map, which gives summit altitude of 6641m. But Schneider Khumbu map gives 5680m for C1 site and 6677m for summit.

  Numri is south of Cho Polu and east of Chhukung villages.


expid: NUPE02301
peakid: NUPE
year: 2002
route1: S Pillar-E Smt I
nation: Russia
leaders: Valeri Babanov
sponsor: Nuptse South Face Expedition
approach: Chhukung village
bcdate: 2002-09-19
smtdate: 2002-10-26
termdate: 2002-10-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to fatigue, fierce wind, no more rope left and other commitments
campsites: BC(19/09,5200m),Biv(07/10,5900m),xxx(26/10,6300m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Lhotse Nuptse Glacier
  Biv on Pillar.

  Babanov started up 29 Sept, delayed by new snowfall and avalanching. Fixed ropes and down to BC with occasional nights in biv at 5900m. Up and down 10 or more times. Wanted to go to start of very steep section known as "Diable" at 6300m, biv there and then alpine style from there to Nuptse East I. Fixed ropes on some pitches ending at start of Diable. Stopped climb here: no rope to fix 200m more needed on the Diable, had to end climb on 7 Nov because of other commitments, wind very strong and "I was very very tired" having already climbed a total of 1500m but to a several points many times. Would like to return next autumn but with some friend partly to have others help carry up gear this very technical route.


expid: PK4102301
peakid: PK41
year: 2002
route1: W Face-NW Ridge
route2: N Ridge (to 6000m)
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Matija Jost
sponsor: Slovene Peak 41 Expedition
ascent1: 1st official
approach: Hinku Drang River->Tangnag, E to Dia Kharka, N to Hinku Glacier
bcdate: 2002-09-29
smtdate: 2002-10-16
smttime: 0936
termdate: 2002-10-20
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(29/09,4900m),ABC(06/10,5600m),Biv(15/10,6500m),Smt(16/10)
achievment: 1st ascent of Peak 41
agency: Everest Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at Hinku Glacier
  ABC at Khare Glacier's plateau at bottom of West Face.

  7 Oct attempt to reach top from ABC by Jezovsek and Kovac to 5750m on West Face and then lot of brief snow showers in unsettled weather, so down to ABC that day and BC on 8 Oct.

  Next attempt on 14 Oct from BC and 15 Oct from ABC by Golob, Jost and Samec at 3:00 am; up face to 6500m and bivouac after 19 hours from bottom of face (5600m), arrived at biv point 10:00 pm (biv on small col). 16 Oct from biv up North[west] Ridge to top; left biv 8:00 am and on top at 9:36 am. Weather clear these two days but windy and cold. 

  Also 16 Oct other 3 members up from ABC via North Ridge; reached 6000m where snow conditions terrible: deep powder snow, so down to ABC. Summiters down to BC on 17 Oct.

  18 Oct 2nd group from ABC via line 200m to right of 1st group's line up West Face, moved very light and reached biv col: now started snowing and had to turn back to ABC and got to ABC 2:00 am of 19th amid powder snow and avalanche. All down to BC 29 Oct and climb finished.

  Face difficult technically but main problem was loose snow. First problem was to reach plateau where to put ABC: very steep and broken seracs in icefall blocked more direct way, so had to climb up rocks at foot of point 6091m, up rocky section and down to plateau.


expid: POKR02301
peakid: POKR
year: 2002
route1: S Face-E Ridge (new route)
nation: UK
leaders: Stephen Town
sponsor: British Damodar Himal Expedition 2002 to Pokharkang
ascent1: 1st
countries: Denmark
approach: Beshisahar->Marshyangdi Riv->Koto->Naur Khola->Phugaon
bcdate: 2002-11-11
smtdate: 2002-11-17
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2002-11-19
campsites: BC(11/11,4600m),C1(12/11,5300m),C2(15/11,5810m),Smt(17/11)
accidents: Isherwood bad chest infection
achievment: 1st ascent of main summit
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  BC west of Phu Khola below East Face of Pokharkang
  C1 on moraine below southeast flank
  C2 at South Face on snow.

  Night of 12/13 Nov 6 inches of snowfall so down to BC. Meanwhile Town and Baldock left BC 12 Nov, Town not physically able to climb others' style and Baldock about same reason. C2 slept in 15 Nov. Above this serious climbing: steep snow and ice requiring 2 ice axes to surmount - fixed about 150m rope here. Climbed South Face to East Summit (6250m) where was at top of ankle-deep soft snow. East Summit on summit plateau where snow was waist deep. East Summit reached by Wynne-Jones, Scott, Thurston, Gronlund, Fairley, Kaji Sherpa, Nima Sherpa, Dawa Jangbu Sherpa. Wynne-Jones, Scott and Kaji went on to main summit. All down to C2 that night, BC 18th. Route much more difficult than N Face.

  Isherwood: from East Summit, down 100m and up to top via East Ridge.


expid: POKR02302
peakid: POKR
year: 2002
route1: N Face from E
nation: Japan
leaders: Koichi Kato
sponsor: 2002 Pokharkan Expedition
approach: Beshisehar->Marshyangdi Riv->Koto->Naur Khola->Phu Khola
bcdate: 2002-10-19
smtdate: 2002-10-31
smttime: 1140
termdate: 2002-11-03
campsites: BC(19/10,4850m),C1(25/10,5360m),C2(28/10,5700m),C3(30/10,6050m),NW.Smt(31/10,6346m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at 4850m NNW of Ngoru
  C1 at 5360m on glacier west of BC.

  31 Oct Kato and Panima left C3 at 7:00 am and reached [NW] summit 11:40 am and stayed about 1 hour in clear weather. Kato found nothing on summit but left his visitation card and Khata in stainless steel cup. Down to C3 to sleep and BC 1 Nov. 

  C1 to C2 rocks and snow, C2 to C3 sloping snow face with crevasses. C3 to top 40% snow face. Fixed 200m C3 to top (100m to C2, 100m C2 to C3). Easy climb with fixed rope in place.


expid: PUMO02301
peakid: PUMO
year: 2002
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Mike Lamont
sponsor: CERN Pumori 2002
bcdate: 2002-10-20
smtdate: 2002-10-28
termdate: 2002-11-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6050m due to lack of rope
campsites: BC(20/10,5300m),ABC(22/10,5600m),xxx(28/10,6050m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC  near lake east of Kalapattar
  ABC at bottom of SE Ridge
  High point on SE Ridge.

  Fixed ropes to 6050m on 28 Oct just below C1 site and turned back since knew would need more rope to fix on this 60-degree steep slope (had expected other teams ot be on mountain too but none was) and had lost stove in bag dropped when birds attacked food inside it while 2 members were climbing.

  Expedition was not well prepared for this climb. Originally it was to be a team of four members, but two dropped out.


expid: PUTH02301
peakid: PUTH
year: 2002
route1: NE Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Guenther Mussnig
sponsor: First Austrian Dhaulagiri VII (Putha Hiunchuli) Expedition
ascent1: 22nd
approach: Jomsom, up Kali Gandaki to Phalak->Lunza Khola to Mulug
bcdate: 2002-10-10
smtdate: 2002-10-16
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2002-10-19
othersmts: Climbed Tongu Peak (TONG-023-01)
campsites: BC(10/10,4700m),C1(12/10,5300m),Smt(16/10)
agency: Himalayan Sherpa Nepal
routememo:
  BC at Kaya Khola valley
  C1 at bottom of NE Face.

  Tongu Peak (about 6200m/20,340ft), north of Dhaulagiri I, was climbed enroute to BC via NW Ridge running from Mu La to top. Summited on 5 Oct by Hummer, Peter Suntinger and Tronigger. 

  On 7th Oct at "the most unfriendly village in Nepal", Kakot on the Barbung Khola north of Putha Hiunchuli expedition was stopped enroute to BC about 25 "Maoist-friendly" locals, who demanded Rs 100,000 for permission to enter their valley of Kaya Khola, where the team would make BC. Team was kept Kakot for a day and half until they agreed to pay Rs 67,000; then they were freed to go to BC. All other Dolpa villages were friendly.

  Expedition members were divided into three teams for further climbs.

  When expedition left BC to return to KTM, they had to take a northernly route, which was longer than their approach route, because Mu La was now blocked by snow. They reached Jomsom on 27 Oct.

  Expedition was divided into three teams:

  Team I                 Team II                   Team III
  Peter Suntinger        Roland Hummer             Uwe Lackner
  Thomas Suntinger       Christian Miklautsch      Guenter Mussnig
  Hans-Peter Tronigger                             Werner Mussnig 
                                                   Thomas Pokorny
                                                   Thomas Zoehrer

  Team I had only one camp above BC: they occupied their C1 at 5300m on 12 Oct. On 14 Oct they made reconnaissance to 6400m on NE Face to East Ridge and returned same day to C1. On 15 Oct at 4:00 pm the three members (without any Sherpa support) left C1 to go to summit, but Tronigger decided to turn back, and Peter Suntinger went down with him to 6100m, where Team II had a camp. Then Suntinger went back up to meet Thomas Suntinger and they spent that night in a snowhole at 6800m. On 16 Oct the two men reached summit at 9:30 am, then descended to BC. They used skis in ascent and descent.

  Team II  occupied their ABC at 5000m on 11 Oct. On 12 Oct they made another camp at 5200m because they could make only slow progress in deep snow. On 13 Oct they made their next camp at 5400m on the glacier, and on 14th another camp at 6100m in the middle of the NE Face. On 15 Oct the two men started up again at 1:00 am but at 6300m turned back because it was bitterly cold and became disoriented, so down to their camp at 6100m. On 16 Oct they left at 5:00 am for another attempt to reach summit and got to 7000m at 4:00 pm. They now turned back because they were exhausted and it was getting late in the day; they again slept in camp at 6100m. On 17th Oct fierce winds blew away their camp and they had to retreat to BC. They too had no Sherpas with them, and they used skis in their ascent and descent.

  Team III of five members, plus two Sherpas, left BC on 13 Oct without skis and made their ABC at 5100m. On 14 Oct, they went up to pitch their C1, but stopped at 5350m at the beginning of the glacier: they radioed to other expedition members that it was impossible to go higher on the face without skis in 2 centimeter-deep snow, and there was avalanching. On 15 Oct. they went down to BC and up a side valley, where they camped in a new ABC for two days to climb minor peaks around it. On 16 Oct. Pokorny soloed one peak, and on 17 Oct the Mussnig brothers summited another one.


expid: RAMC02301
peakid: RAMC
year: 2002
route1: S Face of E Ridge
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Gregor Kresal
sponsor: Himalaya Janak 2002 to Kiratchuli & Ramtang Chang
countries: France, UK
approach: Helicopter to Lhonak->N of Kang Glacier->Taple to Pangpema
bcdate: 2002-09-30
smtdate: 2002-10-03
termdate: 2002-10-27
termnote: Abandoned at 5600m due to dangerous ice conditions
othersmts: Attempted Kirat Chuli (KIRA-023-01)
campsites: BC(30/09,5100m),(03/10,5600m)
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  BC at Pangpema
  No climbing attempt (except Kresel's climb of minor face).

  North Face constantly avalanched (15-30 of seracs, ice stoves, "everything" pending) so impossible, so went to East Face, which had thought could be descent route. But East Face also very dangerous because of 20-50m serac, so no climbing attempt here either. 

  Kresnal with Marence and Pasang Tenzing Sherpa belaying him as he attempted overhanging South Face of East Ridge; face steeply overhanging (120 degrees), mixed ice and rock with big ice at top. Kresal kept falling and going back up; all day trying and finally succeeded on 6th try (with altitude gain only 100m) to 5600m. Made this climb from one ABC at 5000m on glacier SE of his face and south of Pangpema BC.

  Doctor got to BC 3 Oct, immediately said she had typhus and left immediately by helicopter so team had to wait at BC 10 days to learn if they too had typhus but did not develop symtoms. She was frightened and psychosomatic symptoms; this delayed attempt on Kirat Chuli.

  "Maoists" Confrontation: Kresal and Haston flew by helicopter to BC with expedition's funds while rest of team's members trekked from Taplejung. On 28th Sept, one day's trek above Taplejung at Chhiruwa Village on Tamur River, they were stopped by four armed men (not in Maoist uniform)) whom local people said were probably Maoists: they said they knew exactly how much expedition had paid to Nepal govt. for permits ($13,000) and they demanded payment of this sum plus their own "tax" on each member. Members said they had no money with them. They were allowed to proceed after having been locked in a lodge for a short time, but told they would have to pay on their way back to Taplejung airfield, so expedition flew out by helicopter from Ghunsa, well north of Taplejung.


expid: SARI02301
peakid: SARI
year: 2002
nation: Japan
leaders: Satoshi Arimura
approach: Jomsom->Tsarang, N around mtn & S to Yara & Guma Thati
bcdate: 2002-09-07
smtdate: 2002-09-08
termdate: 2002-09-09
termnote: Did not climb due to lack of proper equipment
campsites: BC(07/09,4800m),xxx(08/09,5400m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  8 Sept from BC east on Namta River and south to large glacier at 5400m on north northeastern approach to mountain. They believed to be Saribung (spelled Srilkum on Dept of Survey Damodar Himal map and Ohnishi's '01 map or actually slightly north of Seilibum). In any case they did not have the equipment they would need to cross this glacier nor enough time cross it and do some climbing, so they returned that day to BC and left it the following day without doing any climbing. Another factor in their retreat was unfavorable weather with cloud covering the mountains above 6000m 

  With the 2 Japanese to the edge of the glacier were the cook and trekking guide Krishna.


expid: TILI02301
peakid: TILI
year: 2002
route1: N Spur-N Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Meinhard Van de Reep
sponsor: Dutch Tilicho Peak Expedition 2002
approach: Around Dhaulagiri and up Mesakanto Pass
bcdate: 2002-11-07
smtdate: 2002-11-12
termdate: 2002-11-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6935m due to deep snow
othersmts: Climbed Dhampus Peak (31 Oct by Erdman, Haster, Schielen, Van de Reep, Van der Broek, Vrolyk)
campsites: BC(07/11,4825m),C1(08/11,5850m),C2(11/11,6200m),xxx(12/11,6935m)
accidents: Erdman frostbitten toes
agency: Iceland Trekking (Tendi)
routememo:
  BC at Tilicho Lake
  C1 at NE Spur
  C2 at junctions of Spur & North Ridge
  High point on North Ridge/Face.

  Attempt for top from C2 on 12th by Erdman, Schielen and Van den Brock and "Sherpas" Dawa Sherpa, Santa Gurung and Pasang. At 2:00 pm at 6935m, "snow clouds" brought snowfall, turned back at 3:00 pm and in end was whiteout so stopped 50m vertical above C2 and bived there to wait for daylight; got to C2 at 9:00 am after 2-1/2 hours descent. C2 covered by snow but Sherpas dug out tents and down to C2 and BC at 6:00 pm and now no more time to make 2nd attempt.

  Ropes used BC->C1 300m, C1->C2 300m more only

  Erdman got frostbitten feet and left by helicopter; seriousness not known yet.

  Vrolyk did not go above BC; had problem with nasal passages and left expedition on 9 Nov.


expid: TILI02302
peakid: TILI
year: 2002
route1: NE Spur
nation: Austria
leaders: Reinhold Oblak
sponsor: International Tilicho Peak Expedition 2002
countries: Germany, Luxembourg, USA
bcdate: 2002-10-11
smtdate: 2002-10-20
termdate: 2002-10-21
termnote: Abandoned at 5720m due to deep snow and refusal of Pasang Norbu to fix ropes higher
campsites: BC(11/10,4950m),ABC(19/10,5250m),xxx(20/10,5720m)
agency: Blue Sky Treks
routememo:
  BC  at 4950m just above Tilicho Lake
  ABC at 5250m start of NE Spur
  xxx at 5720m at NE spur

  After establishing ABC and sleeping there 2 nights, came down, climbed and summited a 6050m mountain (no none) north of Glacier Dome (probably climbed by '50 French Annapurna I expedition). Summit reached by all members except Tarmann and by Pasang Norbu Sherpa and Oishal Lama (Tamang) on 24 Oct and on 23 Oct by Oblak and Veider from this C3 at 5800m. 25th to Jomsom.

  On Tilicho, climbed from ABC towards C1 on 19th and 20th and reached 5500m and 5720m, respectively, but very deep snow and Pasang Norbu refused to fix rope above ABC complaining of wind, but wind really not strong.


expid: TKPO02301
peakid: TKPO
year: 2002
route1: NE Pillar (to 5300m)
route2: N Pillar (to 5400m)
route3: E Face (to 5200m)
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Radek Lienerth
sponsor: International Expedition to Tengkangpoche
countries: Slovakia
approach: Khumbu Valley->Thami
bcdate: 2002-10-08
smtdate: 2002-10-16
termdate: 2002-10-31
termnote: Abandoned at 5400m due to loose snow on rock
othersmts: Climbed Tengi Ragi Tau South (TENS-023-01) and Parchamo
campsites: BC(08/10,3000m),ABC(11/10,4500m),xxx(20/10,5400m)
agency: Everest Adventure
routememo:
  BC  at Thami village
  ABC at bottom of North Face
  High point at ledge on NE Pillar.

  Expedition divided into 2 teams: Lienerth and Toloch tried a line starting up east side of NE Pillar and climbed to 5300m to ledge; fixed 350m rope, all ropes they had including climbing ropes to ledge and stopped because all of route was too much new loose snow on rock; this attempt made after acclimatization to Tashi Lapcha and back to mountain; made attempt on 16 Oct. Back to BC, snowing again old afternoon and evening; this was route of French attempt in Spring 2002 of French North Pillar (found rope and some equipment).

  After bringing down their ropes and abandoning Tengkangpoche, Lienerth and Toloch left BC 20 Oct and went to Tengkangpoche village, west of Thami and climbed South Ridge of Tengi Rongi Tau to a summit of 6140m on the ridge to the 6940m main summit; climbed from 21 Oct to this subsidiary summit on 23 Oct (with biv at 5100m and 2nd biv at 5600m both the ridge) and descended via SE Ridge to SW Face. Then they climbed to top of Parchemo with Martin Heuger on 29 Oct via East Ridge and back to BC and all climbing finished.

  Dutka and Heuger left ABC 12 Oct for North Pillar and made series of bivs: 1) at 4900m on 12 Oct: 2) 15 Oct at 5100m, 3) 19 Oct at 5250m. Rock climbing with loose snow covering it so very slow progress: fixed total at 280m rope, reusing some of it as they moved higher. On 20 Oct reached 5400m and quit because of snow on rock, very cold and windy. 21 Oct started down and 22 Oct reached BC. 

  Dutka tried to solo left side of East Face on 28 Oct but stopped at 5200m because of unstable snow and back to BC same day.


expid: TLNG02301
peakid: TLNG
year: 2002
route1: NW Face-W Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Masaki Hayashi
sponsor: Hidden Himalaya Talung Peak Expedition
bcdate: 2002-09-29
smtdate: 2002-10-21
termdate: 2002-10-25
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to dangerous snow conditions
campsites: BC(29/09,4900m),C1(05/10,5200m),C2(11/10,6000m),C3(20/10,6400m),xxx(21/10,6700m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC on Yalung Glacier east of Oktang
  C1 on side glacier southeast of main Yalung Glacier.
  C3 on glacier northwest of mountain
  High point on West Face.

  From Oktang monastery 2-1/2 hour walk. Made attempt to reach summit: Hayashi, Takeushi and Ang Phuri Lama left C3 at 3:00 am and arrived at 6700m of NW Face at 7:00 am. Then big avalanche and very strong wind, so down to C3. Very deep, soft snow: very bad snow conditions making climbing dangerous (next day stronger wind). Same day down to C1 and climb finished. 22 Oct to BC. Murata to C2 only, very tired and not acclimatizing well.

  Fixed rope in three sections above C1, below C2 (where there were crevasses) and above C3 in complex seracs and crevasses avalanche-prone area above C3.

  Murata left BC 21 Oct because his holiday ending.


expid: TLNG02302
peakid: TLNG
year: 2002
route1: Left side of NW Face (to 6600m)
route2: NW Face-W Face
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Martin Otta
sponsor: Czech-Slovakian Expedition Talung 2002
ascent2: 3rd
countries: Slovakia
approach: 4-day bus ride to Taplejung->Anda Phedi->Simbuwa Khola->Ramche
bcdate: 2002-10-05
smtdate: 2002-10-24
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2002-10-26
campsites: BC(05/10,5200m),Biv1(6100m),Biv2(6500m),Smt(24/10)
accidents: Skokan breathing problem and never above BC; Cepelkova slight frostbite
agency: Everest Adventure
routememo:
  BC at Yalung glacier 
  C1 wwas series of 2 bivouacs
  High point on West face (left side).

  Went to 5400m for depot then went for acclimatization on West Face, on Japanese route, up to 6500m, making route for Japanese but without rope (Japanese later fixed all this route). Then to BC 14. 16 Oct Cepelkova and Kolouch left BC for N (not NNW) Pillar, climbed 500m up pillar to 5900m, then back to BC because of loose snow on rock so dangerous. Now decided to divide into 2 teams. 

  1st team Cepelkova, [Patak] and Otta left BC 19 Oct to try new route on left side of NW Face. Slept in ABC at 5400m. 20th started up mountain in series of bivouacs: 1st biv at 5800m on 20 Oct: 2nd biv at 6000m on 21 Oct; 3rd biv on 22nd and 23rd Oct at 6200m, 4th biv on 24 Oct at 6600m. 25th Oct had to turn back because no time left. Slow progress because technically more difficult than expected with 60-degrees steep, danger overhanging seracs, avalanching and wind. 25 Oct traversed to right to West Face (to Japanese route) to descend to BC same day late night.

  2nd team Jackovic, Hromadka and Kolouch left BC 20 Oct for West Face and made only bivs: 1st biv at 6100m; 2nd biv at 6500m on 22nd Oct. 24 Oct both started for top at 5:00 am, Hromadka turned back 100m above biv, afraid of frostbite; Kolouch up to top alone in afternoon (about 3:00 pm) and back to 2nd biv. 25th evening all members back in BC. On 21 Oct Jackovic turned back from 1st biv because of not serious stomach and altitude problems.


expid: TSOK95301
peakid: TSOK
year: 1995
route1: SW Ridge
route2: SE Face
nation: USA
leaders: Geoffrey Tabin
sponsor: American Shey Shikhar Expedition
ascent1: 2nd
ascent2: 3rd
countries: UK
approach: Phoksumdo Khola
bcdate: 1995-09-21
smtdate: 1995-09-29
smttime: 1330
termdate: 1995-10-04
othersmts: Recon Shey Shikhar (SHEY-953-01); climbed Kang Yaja, Pk 5950, Pk 5602
campsites: BC(21/09,4600m),C1.Biv(28/09,5300m),Smt(29/09,01/10)
agency: Asian Trekking
primid: SHEY95301
routememo:
  After BC, spent several days recce on northeast & east of south of Shey Shikhar to pass of 5300m south of mountain. Very loose rock, very scary, looked very dangerous from hanging glacier through mountain difficult. Then retreated to east to Pt 5602m directly north of Shey Shikhar & found it very loose rock ridge with downsloping slabs of bad rock; very dangerous. 

  Back to BC & abandoned attempt on Shey Shikhar & turned attention to what members believe is Tso Karpo Kang: climber from south up rock wall (where found Japanese rope pitons) to a saddle on 28th. 29th 4 members & Nima Tashi Sherpa, Naga Dorje Sherpa & Krishna Bahadur Tamang up SW Buttress, 3000 ft ice; at about 5800m 3 members turned back because 2 members were either sick or not strong while Tabin & 3 Nepalese climbed SW Ridge which became less steep & on top at 1:30 pm of 29th & back to C1/biv at 5300m at 4:30 pm. 30th Tabin & Squier to BC; Ruoss & Normand to peak 5950m high just SW of C1 & SE of Kang & Tabin & Squier to BC. Ruoss & Normand 1st Oct climbed to top of Tso Karpo Kang by slightly different route & back to BC on 2nd.

  Tabin, 2 Sherpas and 2 Warings & Sinclair on 1st Oct to a camp at 4800m south of Kang Yaja & on 2nd on top via 1000 vertical feet of vertical rock scrambling, icefall 400-500 ft high to sloping glacier to snow ridge to south ridge to summit. Warings & Sinclair spent night at 4800m camp while while Tabin & Sherpas to BC. 3rd all in BC & climbing finished. Returned via Shey Gompa.

  Tso Karpo Kang (6556m) (2nd & 3rd ascents)
    29 Sep (SW Ridge) by
       Tabin, Nima Tashi Sherpa, Naga Dorje Sherpa, Krishna Bahadur Tamang
    01 Oct (SE Face) by
       Ruoss, Normand

  Kang Yaja (5962m) (1st ascent)
    02 Oct (S Ridge) by
       Waring III, Waring IV, Sinclair, Nima Tashi Sherpa, Naga Dorje Sherpa


expid: LHOT02303
peakid: LHOT
year: 2002
route1: W Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Se-Jung
sponsor: 2002 South Korea
ascent1: 78th
bcdate: 2002-09-03
smtdate: 2002-10-05
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2002-10-08
othersmts: Attempted Everest (EVER-023-05)
campsites: BC(03/09),C1(11/09,6100m),C2(15/09,6400m),C3(25/09,7300m),C4(04/10,7850m),Smt(05/10)
agency: Echo Himal
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 at West Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse West Face
  C4 on Lhotse West Face.

  Lee Se-Jung, Park, Lee Woo-Kyung and Serap Jangbu up from Col and reached just under Balcony at 8400m in 4 hours and then snow avalanche coming down; no one hurt, but party returned to C4 to sleep and 4 Oct to C2. They all used oxygen sleeping in C4 and climbing up from Col and sleeping again in C4 but no longer. Everest climbing finished.

  All Lhotse summiters used oxygen on low flow sleeping night of 5 Oct and full flow climbing to top and down to C4 on 5 Oct but going down same day from C4 (Lhotse) to C2 not using it. Expedition finished. All down in BC 6 Oct. Lhotse Summiters were on top 1 hour before Brazilians.

  Sherpa Lhotse Summiters: 
    Lhakpa Tshering, Khumjung, Everest X1, Annapurna I X1
    Ang Babu, aka Jimba Zangbu, Khumjung, Lhotse 5/01, Xixa X1
    Serap Jangbu, Khumjung, 5 8000ers & Lhotse 4/01


expid: PAND02301
peakid: PAND
year: 2002
route1: S Face/Ridge
nation: Denmark
leaders: Henrik Hansen
sponsor: Danish Danga Expedition
ascent1: 1st
approach: Helicopter to Taplejung->Ghunsa->Lhonak
bcdate: 2002-10-01
smtdate: 2002-10-16
termdate: 2002-10-23
othersmts: Climbed Danga (DANG-023-01); attempted Tinjung
campsites: BC(01/10,4785m),Biv(14/10,5740m),Smt(16/10)
agency: Arun Treks
primid: DANG02301
routememo:
  4 Oct all members want to 5380m biv northwest of Lhonak and next day 50m higher (but long distance to snow-covered rocky area at start of glacier east of Danga). 6th up glacier northeast direction to Col east of Tinjung at 6000m biv. 7th climbed East Ridge to East Face of Tinjung to 6137m; above this dangerous ridge (avalanche danger), then down down to Lhonak BC. Now snowing. 

  10 Oct up Lhonak Glacier to 5250m biv on moraine on west side of glacier. Hansen now had flu and returned to BC. 10 Oct other 3 members biv at 5500m on northwest of Lhonak Glacier to see feasible route up Pandra. 12th went up short distance, no visibility of mountain now so back to BC. Could not see mountain through snow and clouds. 14th same 3 members returned to 5500m and on up glacier to biv at 5740m in the basin southeast of mountain. 16th to summit of Pandra (6673m GPS) up South Face via couloir leading to col South Face and back to 5740m biv - face steep ice and snow so very difficult. 17th to Lhonak. 

  19th for Danga altitude up high end of glacier to 5225m and biv here. 20th all except Hansen to top via South Glacier and South Face of Danga; steep steps and easier climb in between and all back BC. Achieved this goal of exploratory climbing.


expid: NAG102301
peakid: NAG1
year: 2002
route1: SE Face
nation: USA
leaders: David Morton
sponsor: Nangpai Gosum American Expedition 2002
bcdate: 2002-09-16
smtdate: 2002-09-20
termdate: 2002-09-20
termnote: Did no climbing above BC because of gunfire incident
campsites: BC(16/09),xxx(20/09,5100m)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  Did no climbing above BC.

  Did some recce up from east and west sides of Sumra Glacier and from these climbs saw that SE Face was feasible route. Then came around to Nangpa Glacier to have look at descent route via West Ridge. 20 Sept went up towards Nangpa La. Met Chinese soldier, chatted and gave food; he said he'd come from Cho Oyu ABC then left him and continued towards pass while he went on further into Nepal and US went above Lunag village to about 5100m, where saw their descent route but also saw a person dressed like 1st man, stopped to eat, then turned back (about an hour after encountering 1st man). Met 1st man again, this time at Lunag. Gave him more food. He suddenly got up, said "Ok bye" and "thank you very much" and went up towards pass. Hues walked 10 minutes down and then 1st shot. Think soldiers trying to frighten them, not to kill them. Both want to come back to mountain next year.


  Steven F. Brault - 24 Sept 2002 
  (Chief of Consular Section, USA Embassy, Kathmandu)

  Copy of incident report from expedition.

  To Murari Sharma of Parivar Trekking:

  Murari,

  We're in Namche. See the following message. We left basecamp early. This message was sent to the American Embassy. We will email you when we have plans for the next couple of weeks.

  Dave and Jeff


  To Whom It May Concern at the American Embassy:

  My name is David Morton and I am listed as the leader of the Nangpai Gosum American 2002 expedition. The only other member is my climbing partner, Jeff Lamoureux. We were attempting to climb Nangpai Gosum peak near the Nangpa La in Khumbu. We arrived at our BC on Sept 16th.

  Today is Sept 21st. We are giving you a fairly detailed account because we are not sure when we will be back in Kathmandu. We will be back and forth between Namche during the next few days where we will be checking email.

  The following is an account of the last 36 hours:

  Yesterday, Jeff and I left basecamp to go out to look around up near the pass to Tibet/Cho Oyu. We thought that our descent route would go down that way. We had been at BC for four or five days acclimatizing and checking out different possibilities. 

  There are very few people in the area. We hadn't seen anyone since we arrived. Anyway, we left camp early am, going up towards the pass and saw a guy coming towards us. We stopped to talk and he told us he was Chinese military and had an automatic weapon on his shoulder. We gave him food and water. He seemed extremely nervous and asking where we were coming from, if there were others behind us, where our BC was, etc. We have him food and water. He seemed hungry, thirsty, shaky. He was wearing a black jacket and black or dark pants and a red ski hat/mask, but had a supposedly Chinese military uniform underneath. He showed us the uniform as he was explaining who he was. He looked like typical Han Chinese ethnicity. He didn't seem to speak much English at all and claimed not to speak Nepali when asked this in Nepali. The encounter was very uncomfortable but we left and kept walking. He descended apparently concerned about someone coming behind us. I looked back 20 minutes later and saw him on a moraine sitting watching us. 

  We continued up and about an hour later I came around a corner, looking toward the Nangpa La pass, and saw a guy with same ski hat duck behind a rock when he saw me. He was about 200 yards ahead. We stopped and I yelled "hello" to try and make contact with him. We took a break and ate some food and decided to turn around because the whole thing was little strange. We knew he would probably be following, we turned around and went down and came up the first guy again at almost the same spot. We stopped and gave him food and water again and after a few minutes he stood up abruptly and said "bye" abruptly enough to seem awkward. 

  We started walking down and about 10 minutes later heard a shot. I didn't think too much of it and thought they may be messing around or something. In another 2 or 3 minutes there was a shot which came at us and just missed us. We heard the bullet go right past our ears. We started running and there was another shot. We hid behind a rock and ditched our packs so we could go faster, then kept running. We ran across this flat "field" area stopping every now and then because it was so difficult (16,000 ft) and hiding behind something. It seemed clear they were actually shooting at us. I thought they may catch us so I hid all my money under a rock. 

  There were about 5 shots total at us and we eventually got to a place where we thought we were safe. We looked back during all of this and they were continuing to come after us. We think they stopped for a while at our packs. We hid in this spot for the next three or four hours and then made our way back to our basecamp which was about 40 minutes from there.

  We got back to BC and our cook/sirdar and helper decided we should pack up everything and descend that evening back to Thame once it got dark. We left BC last night around 8 pm and got to Thame at 5 am. We're now in Namche.

  We don't know still who it was. At first we thought perhaps Maoists but this guy was clearly Chinese and claimed not to speak Nepali. Our sirdar and his Sherpa helper from that valley think that they were Chinese police. Jeff and I can't believe Chinese police or military would try something like that so we're thinking they were some kind of Chinese thieves which ambushed us because we were easy targets.


expid: EVER69102
peakid: EVER
year: 1969
route1: N side (success reported, not confirmed)
nation: China
routememo:
  The New China News Agency reported that Chen Chien-Ming, Wang Ming-Yudan and Yen Tung-Liang, all Chinese Communist Party surveyors, summited Everest in May 1969 in 3 individual ascents.

  Wang (bad cough and stomach inflamation) and Yen (sustained heart attack) retreated to base camp to recover before subsequently summiting.


expid: AMAD03101
peakid: AMAD
year: 2003
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Sergei Astakhov
sponsor: Siberian Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 427
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2003-05-11
smtdate: 2003-05-20
smttime: 1630
termdate: 2003-05-22
campsites: BC(11/05,4800m),C1(15/05,5600m),C2(19/05,5900m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  May 20: left C2 all together at 06:30 hours; summit between 16:30-17:00 hours, stayed about 60 minutes. Descended to C2 at about 23:50 hours. Next day to BC. 

  Visibility was poor due to snowfall and high wind. The camps were first occupied together. The expedition returned to KTM on May 25 and leaves on 27.


expid: AMAD03102
peakid: AMAD
year: 2003
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Georgia
leaders: Benedict Kashakashvili
sponsor: Ama Dablam Georgian Expedition
ascent1: 423,428
countries: Russia
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2003-05-09
smtdate: 2003-05-13
smttime: 1100
campsites: BC(09/05,4600m),BC(15/05,4600m),C1(11,17/05,5500m),C2(12,18/05,5800m),Smt(13,22/05)
achievment: 1st woman to summit from Georgia
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Volodin (Russian) arrived BC on May 9 before other team members from Everest BC trek. Volodin occupied C1 on 11th, C2 on 12th. He left C2 alone at about 06:00 hours, summit at 11:00 hours. Volodin left BC on 16th for KTM. He plans to visit Pokhara and do rafting. His departure date not fixed. 

  The four members arrived BC on 15th. Occupied C1 on 17th and C2 on 18th all together. Left from C2 at 05:00 hours, summit between 15:00-17:00 hours. Gigani arrived to summit at 15:00 hours and waited for other members to come. Ostrashvili and Tvaradze summited at 16:00 hours and last to arrive was Kashakashvili At the time of starting weather was very good - sunny; after 11:00 hours it became foggy and snowfall. Kashakashvili spent about five minutes at the summit and descended all together to C2

  The expedition returned to KTM on 27 and to leaves on June 04.


expid: AMAD03104
peakid: AMAD
year: 2003
route1: SW Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Dean Staples
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Australia, UK
bcdate: 2003-04-13
smtdate: 2003-04-29
termdate: 2003-05-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to bad snow conditions and lack of time
campsites: BC(13/04,4600m),ABC(18/04,5400m),C1(19/04,5800m),C2(29/04,6100m),xxx(29/04,6100m)
accidents: Baldry chest infection and left 29 April
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  at 4600m normal site
  ABC at 5400m at bottom of boulder field
  C1  at 5800m on SW Ridge
  C2  at 6100m on SW Ridge
  High point at C2.

  Between 19 and 29 April fixed ropes and had some snowfall. On 19th electrical storm and on 20th down to BC in hurry (wire in Staples camp buzzed with storm's electricity). 21st back up and fixing ropes above C1. Summit push by MacQueen and Staples and down on 30th. 4 days of continous snow which meant dangerous climbing conditions on snow covered rock. Now no time left for another attempt. On 31st down to BC.

  Hunt left the expedition 18 April. Went with team on a day's walk on 16 April from BC, didn't like the look of the mountain, left on 16th without having done any climbing.


expid: AMAD03105
peakid: AMAD
year: 2003
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Michael Illien
sponsor: Swiss Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 418,421
bcdate: 2003-05-04
smtdate: 2003-05-10
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2003-05-13
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (Bernhard on May 3)
campsites: BC(04/05,4500m),C1(05/05,5700m),C2(06/05,6000m),C3(08/05,6300m),Smt(10-11/05)
achievment: 1st ascent of the season
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 4500m usual BC site
  C1 at 5700m usual site.

  May 10: Hertli, Illien and Wangchu left C2 at 04:00 hours, summited at 14:00 hours, stayed about an hour, back to C2 at 19:00 hours. Weather generally was good but before half an hour to summit, gathered clouds; summit was misty and could not see other mountains. Next day Hertli descended to BC; Illien stayed at C2.

  May 11: Bernard, Mrs Schneider and Wangchu started from C2 at 04:30 hours, summited at 12:30, spent half an hour on top, returned to C2 at 18:00 hours. Next day all descended to BC. 

  On May 11 other summiters were three Australians and two Austrians before Bernhard team. Weather was very good. The expedition returned to KTM on May 16 and leaves on 17 afternoon.

  Member De Weck left BC on 9th and left Nepal on the 11th.


expid: AMAD03106
peakid: AMAD
year: 2003
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Joachim Jakobi
sponsor: Independant Team on Ama Dablam
approach: Lukla->Chhukung Ri and 3 other smaller peaks
bcdate: 2003-04-14
smtdate: 2003-04-21
termdate: 2003-04-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6450m due to bad snow conditions and unstable weather
campsites: BC(14/04),C1(15/04,5800m),C2(18/04,6000m),Biv1(19/04),Biv2(20/04,6300m),xxx(21/04,6450m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  BC at Mingbo
  C1 at 5800m at start of ridge
  C2 at 6000m right above yellow tower
  High point at SW Ridge.

  From C1 down to get resupplied and returned to C1 17 Apr. 18 Apr up from C1 taking the tent to C2. 19 Apr took tent to go up to C3; Joachim went down (not feeling well and problem with 3 people). Other 2 up early in morning, but weather very unstable with 3 hours good weather each day and then snowfall. Remaining members had to biv on ridge on 19 Apr and 20 Apr (especially on 1st day when electric storm). 2nd biv on mushroom ridge at about 6300m; left biv equipment there and tried for summit, but by noon only at 6450m (above normal C3); then a little snowfall and couldn't reach top before 5:00 pm, so without biv equipment decided to retreat for safety  reasons. Had to down climb with difficulty and returned to C2 in dark (at 8:00 pm). 22 Apr continous snowfall and down to BC 23 Apr at 11:00 pm and climb finished. Next 4 days bad weather also; combination of snow cover and very loose rock. 

  Did not use NZ team's fixed ropes. "Another problem" was members did not know each other; Jakobi organized the group and Pinger knew him by telephone only for 9 months. Pinger met Lenmerz 2 weeks before they came to Nepal.

  Dean Staples, NZ team leader, said 6 May Jakobi left mountain while other 2 members were still there and went for trek.


expid: AMAD03107
peakid: AMAD
year: 2003
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Peter Shelley
sponsor: Ama Dablam Spring 2003
ascent1: 425
countries: Canada
approach: Lukla->Namche->Tengboche->BC
bcdate: 2003-05-10
smtdate: 2003-05-14
smttime: 1245
termdate: 2003-05-17
campsites: BC(10/05),C1(12/05),C2(13/05),Smt(14/05)
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
routememo:
  Surprised by number of ropes (from C1 to the summit); there were fixed ropes all the way.

  Had to wait to move to C2 because of other groups on the mountain.

  Great weather; only had to wait to get onto the mountain because crowds.

  Apparently, summit day was windless but Everest was cloudy. Clouds rolled in pretty close after the summit was reached.

  Mike Latham, Marco Delesalle, high point 6500m at May 15; Peter Shelley on May 11.


expid: AMAD03108
peakid: AMAD
year: 2003
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Alan Silva
sponsor: Jewel Seekers Sydney Ama Dablam Expedition
ascent1: 419,422,424,426
countries: S Africa
approach: Gokyo->Chola La->Gorakshep (7 members); Jiri->Dingboche (Alan)
bcdate: 2003-05-04
smtdate: 2003-05-11
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2003-05-20
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (May 3)
campsites: BC(05,4770m),C1(07/05,5800m),C2(09/05,6075m),C3(10/05,6400m),Smt(11-13,19/05)
accidents: Doug Cross did not summit due to bronchitis
agency: Independent Himalayan Adventure
routememo:
  BC at 4770m normal - everyone
  C1 at 5800m normal - everyone
  C2 at 6075m normal - Jon Castley, Grace Tang, Jangbu Sherpa
  C3 at 6400m normal - Jon Castley, Grace Tang, Jangbu Sherpa

  Summit on May 19 by Jangbu Sherpa, Penny Troy, Jon Castley.

  Island Peak - all attempted, only Alan Silva summited, rest were 30m from top.

  Tia Rana Silva, daughter of Alan Silva, 20 months old (28 Aug 2001), spent 2 nights @ BC - no problems.

  Jangbu Sherpa - Okhaldhunga, 38 years old, twice summited Ama Dablam this time, twice summited previously; summited Pumori, Everest C3.

  Weather good. Summit day, May 19 - no views.

  BC - little litter, only 2 toilets - need 1-2 more.
  Ropes - too many and in bad condition which can be dangerous - need to get them off.

  Fixed ropes - Jangbu Sherpa replaced 300m: C2->C3, 200m; C3->summit, 100m
                Swiss Sherpa  replaced 250m: C1->C2


  Independent Himalayan Adventure
  Guide Sarki Tamang, aka Bir was a BC sirdar

  Expeditions report to Tourism Ministry after returning to KTM gives following altitudes:

  BC 4770m 5 May
  C1 5950m 7 May
  C2 6160m 9 May
  C3 6430m 10 May
  Summit on 11 and 19 May

  ** Trekking agent, Chandra Bahadur Niraula, 7 July '03, says both Castley and Jangbu descended to BC after 11 May summit and made record complete climb from BC to top for 18 May summit.


expid: AMAD03103
peakid: AMAD
year: 2003
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Herbert Wolf
sponsor: Austrians Friends of Nature Ama Dablam
ascent1: 420
approach: Lukla->Namche->Khumjung->Pangboche
bcdate: 2003-04-30
smtdate: 2003-05-11
smttime: 1215
termdate: 2003-05-14
campsites: BC(30/04,4550m),C1(06/05,5700m),C2(10/05,6000m),Smt(11/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Moritz and Wolf left C2 on May 11 at 05:00 hours. Both members summited at 1215 hours, stayed about 40 minutes, waiting for the Swiss climbers to summit. Descended to C2 where both climbers arrived at 16:30 hours. The weather on summit day was clear. Other climbers ahead of Moritz and Wolf were Australian and one Sherpa and behind them there were 2 Swiss, 2 Australians and two Sherpas and one Swiss woman Schnider. 

  After the summit, both members trekked to BC of Island Peak. Returned to KTM on May 21 and to leave on 24th.

  Above C3 very deep glacier but ropes were okay so no problems.
  Just above C3 very hard ice - blue ice, then snow
  Lots of rope - 15, one after the other
  C2->C3 - most ropes on very steep part (6100m)
  29th April snowing in Pangboche - only good after May 04. Clear day on summit.
  Tactic - went very slow, had good food.


expid: ANN103101
peakid: ANN1
year: 2003
route1: S Face (Bonington route)
nation: Japan
leaders: Atsushi Yamamoto
sponsor: Meiji University Annapurna I
ascent1: 41st
bcdate: 2003-03-27
smtdate: 2003-05-16
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2003-05-20
campsites: BC(27/03,4200m),C1(06/04,5000m),C2(13/04,6100m),C3(25/04,6800m),C4(15/05,7400m),Smt(16/05)
accidents: Takahasyi frostbitten toes and fingers only; Matshumoto slight pulmonary edema
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at 4200m grass, very good
  C1 at 5000m above glacier at start of South Face
  C2 at 6100m on South Face
  C3 at 6800m on South Face
  C4 at 7400m (1 tent on ice ridge).

  BC to C1 20 to 24 hours walk of about 5 km but put far from face because no snow cover, good water and good rest here possible. 19 April to BC because storm (strong wind and snow)

  Spent one night in C4 only, night of 15 May because have to spend 12 days in BC because of continuous snowfall which even covered BC with 6 inches snow and C1 1m. C2 tents under 4m snow and had to dig them out and repair or replace them: 2 days to remake C2. 15 May 6 members to C4 crowded in 1 small tent with knees up to chins with 2 Sherpas in C3. 

  Members never used oxygen but team's 2 safety Sherpas used from C3 to top only (saving oxygen from Japanese if problem). Sherpas to top from C3. 

  Had plan for second summit attack but this spring's bad weather and C4 site tiny spot on ice ridge and had to use slings to secure it. Summiters back in BC 17 May. Rope fixed all way from 5700m to 7700m and just below summit 100m. Japanese summiters reached top at 2:40 pm and returned to C2 to sleep at 7:20 pm. Sherpas summiters were on top at 9:00 am and returned to C2 at 9:00 pm.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Lhakpa Rita, Phortse, Everest X1, Lhotse X1
    Palden Namgyal, Phortse, 31 years old, Everest X1, Lhotse X1, Manaslu 2001


expid: BARU03101
peakid: BARU
year: 2003
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Michael Grocott
sponsor: Baruntse 2003 Expedition
countries: Germany, S Africa
bcdate: 2003-04-25
smtdate: 2003-04-29
termdate: 2003-05-07
termnote: Abandoned at 6180m due to high winds
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak (23 and 24 April)
campsites: BC(25/04,5490m),ABC(28/04,5850m),C1(29/04,6180m),xxx(29/04,6180m)
accidents: Only fatal accident (plus porters cerebral edema) on approach to BC
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  BC  at west side of small lake (normal site)
  ABC on glacier
  C1  at West Col
  High point at West Col.

  Climbed Mera (trekking peak).

  From West Col on 30th to BC, partly because of winds, which pinned down team at BC. Got to ABC 3 May but back to BC because of winds and Canadian trekkers said tents of this expedition were being destroyed. To West Col on 6th May and could salvage pieces of tents and gear and brought everything from Col. 7th May Grocott, Hoezl and Vergueil left because weather bad over Mingbo La leaving only Dick and Turner and Pasang to West Col on 10 May and while cramponing the Col's slope, Turner lost in queue and after he didn't show up. About 20 minutes later Dick went to search and took time to climb down to body and found rope broken at its bottom suggesting Turner's gadget hadn't grabbed rope and he slid about 150m down Col and 100m more on glacier (got to him 5:00 pm and found him dead with head injuries suggesting he died during fall).


expid: BARU03102
peakid: BARU
year: 2003
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Serbia
leaders: Miodrag Jovovic
sponsor: Vojvodina Expedition to Baruntse
ascent1: 59th
bcdate: 2003-04-16
smtdate: 2003-04-27
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2003-04-29
campsites: BC(16/04,5600m),C1(21/04,6125m),C2(26/04,6500m),Smt(27/04)
accidents: Dorje Sherpa (Lukla) cerebral edema
achievment: 1st Balkan summiters
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  BC near lake (normal site)
  C1 at east side of West Col
  C2 at bottom of SE Ridge.

  West Col's couloir very difficult blue ice. Mrs Vasut turned back here, so did Erdeljan - too far from BC to C1 over this Col. Had expected only Ferlan and Luhovic to be summiters and others to help them. 

  Amphu Lapcha very deep snow and blue ice; not prepared for these conditions as gear had gone another route and most of members had to biv under rocks; 2 members not very capable to climb here without ropes.

  Luhovic found climb difficult without more rope fixed; Prem Dorje's sickness resulted in no fixed rope beyond West Col. Ferlan, a more experienced Himalaya climber did not find difficult.


expid: CHOY03102
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Josef Kubicek
sponsor: Libra AAC Cho Oyu Expedition 2003
countries: Poland
approach: From Lhasa
bcdate: 2003-04-23
smtdate: 2003-05-01
termdate: 2003-05-12
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to fierce winds and lack of time
campsites: BC(23/04),ABC(25/04,5700m),C1(28/04,6400m),xxx(01,03,07/05,6800m)
agency: Nepal Trans Himalayan Explorer
routememo:
  High point near big serac.

  Tried 3 times to get to C2 but 160 km hour winds and those others team tent at C2 blown away and at C1 many tents broken by winds. Temp -30 degrees Centrigrade at night outside and -15 degrees in tents. Main problem was wind, but snow conditions good. Highest point was near seracs at 6800m on 1 May, 3 May, 7th May by all 4 members (including leader) and Pasang Phutar. 2 bids from and to C1. 3rd time decided no time left to continue efforts and down to C1 and ABC in 7th May.


expid: CHOY03101
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: Australia
leaders: Paul Carr
sponsor: Everest 2004/Make a Wish
bcdate: 2003-04-16
smtdate: 2003-05-11
termdate: 2003-05-19
termnote: Abandoned at 7400 due to death of leader
campsites: BC(16/04),ABC(20/04),C1(26/04,6250m),C2(10/05,6900m),C3(11/05,7400m),xxx(11/05,7400m)
accidents: Rai minor frostbite; Carr died of heart attack
agency: Sea to Summit Trekking
routememo:
  Nick Farr - 29 Jun 2003

  We arrived at BC on April 16. We all arrived at and first slept at ABC on April 20. Our first trip to C1 was on April 23 but was just up and down - no sleeping at C1 on this trip. First time we slept at C1 was on April 26 staying through April 27 returning to ABC on April 28. Overnight at C1 on May 1st and May 2nd and return to ABC on May 3. Overnight at C1 on May 5 and back to ABC on May 6. Then at ABC until May 9 and overnight at C1 on May 9. May 10 Paul Carr and I climbed to and slept at C2. May 11 Paul Carr and I climbed to and slept at C3. I slept at C3 the next 3 nights (4 in total). Paul died at C3 on May 14. I returned to ABC on May 15. Paul died of a heart attack and not AMS as was first reported.

  The highest point reached by our team was C3 at around 7400m. This was reached by Paul Carr and I on May 11 along with our climbing Sherpas, Yodha Rai and Tika Tamang.

  Our expedition had one bottle of oxygen for medical purposes which remained at C1 and one bottle which I planned to use for my proposed ski descent. We took this bottle with us to C3 but did not use it on our climb up. I used this bottle in my efforts to try to revive Paul and I then decided I may as well use it when descending on May 15. I had to carry it anyway so I figured I may as well use it.

  One of our Sherpas Yodha Rai received minor frostbite to the very end tip of one of his fingers. This was recovering well back in KTM. No other serious illnesses or accidents.

  Paul died at C3 approx 7400m at around 3:00 pm on May 14. He died very suddenly and an autopsy revealed the cause to be a heart attack. This explained the quick and most unexpected nature of his death.

  The moment Paul died I decided to abandon any further efforts for the summit - May 14. The team obviously agreed wth this decision when I returned to ABC on May 15.

  Our team was flown out of ABC to KTM by Colonel Madan KC and the Royal Nepalese Army on May 19. Paul's body was flown from ABC to KTM on May 20.

  In terms of anything else I might need to say it would be this. Paul, I and Sherpas were in a strong and fit condition when we arrived at C3 on May 11. We had planned to try one last time for the summit on May 15 and if the bad weather continued were going to return to ABC to refresh that day regardless. All decisions we made in terms of going up, staying or going down were sound and agreed upon by us both based on how we were feeling. That Paul died suddenly of a heart attack vindicates what I have always maintained and that being that at no time did we ever ignore any signs of altitude sickness. I remained strong (as strong as I feel you can be at the altitudes we reached) for the whole time we were at those altitudes. Paul too gave every indication that he was feeling strong and fit right up until the moment that he died.

  "Sherpas"
    Yuddha Rai, 37, from Gaidipangma VDC, Sankhawasabha
    Tika Tamang, 31, from Ramechap


expid: CHOY03103
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Yves Anciaux
sponsor: Cho Oyu Xixabangma French Expedition 2003
approach: KTM->Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2003-04-08
smtdate: 2003-05-12
smttime: 1545
termdate: 2003-05-16
othersmts: Climbed Xixabangma (2nd summit by Aurouze and Rambaud on May 29)
campsites: BC(08/04,4900m),ABC(11/04,5730m),C1(17/04,6400m),C2(09/05,7130m),Smt(12/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC.

  All four members were at C2 on May 9 with two Sherpas. On May 11 all four members went up to 7400m. It was very cold so they descended to C2 and on 12th Anciaux and Odin went down to C1. 

  May 12: Aurouze and Rambaud left C2 at 05:00 hours. Rambaud returned from 7900m to C2 - his plan was to climb till 13:00 hours in order to return to C2 before night fall. Aurouze summitted at 15:45 hours NST and stayed about 15 minutes, returned to C2 at 19:30 hours. Aurouze saw at the summit. Prayer flags tied on snow bar and bamboo. Weather was good. He saw Everest and other peaks. 

  The expedition arrived KTM on June 3 and leaves on 7th.

  Sherpas:
    Sirdar Phinjo [Norbu] Sherpa, Beding, (now in Bishal Nagar 4), now 44 years old
      Everest South (UK), Everest North (1991, 98, 01)
    Jit Bahadur, 22 years, Khare VDC


expid: CHOY03104
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Jose Luis Anton Ortega
sponsor: Spanish Cho Oyu - Getafe de Alaska al Himalaja
approach: KTM->Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2003-04-28
smtdate: 2003-05-08
termdate: 2003-05-18
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to bad weather and high winds
campsites: BC(28/04,4900m),ABC(01/05,5700m),C1(03/05,6400m),xxx.Mbrs(08/05,7000m),xxx.Sherpas(08/05,7100m)
accidents: Cook in ABC Gopal Gurung got pulmonary edema and left; nothing else serious
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Arrived KTM 12 April then to Khumbu to trek and acclimatize return KTM 24 April and after KTM for border 26 April. 

  When they wanted to establish C2 at 7100m, it was very windy. 2 Sherpas (Furi Gyalzen and Kami) reached 7100m, but members stopped at 7000m. Members never went higher. When time for summit bid came according to program, 16 May weather not good. Had been good 11-13 May but then members too tired, not strong health and therefore not in C2 for quick attempt. Another problem was that German and Australian deaths required Sherpas to help evacuate bodies.


expid: CHOY03105
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Paul Boslooper
sponsor: Paul-Rita Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Trek from Lhasa with climb
bcdate: 2003-04-27
smtdate: 2003-05-13
termdate: 2003-05-17
accidents: Hoek Van Dyke fell and broke ribs; Boslooper 1 frostbitten finger
agency: Explore Himalaya
campsites:
  BC(27/04),ABC(30/04,5700m),C1(04/05,6400m),C1.5(10/05,6800m),C2(11/05,7130m),C3(12/05,7550m),Smt(13/05)

routememo:
  ABC  at normal site
  C2.5 at normal site.

  Both members to C3 12 May for top bid, but on 13 May it was very cold (-36 C), wind strong and Hoek Van Duke feeling sick, so she stayed in C3 while Boslooper and 2 Sherpas left 5:45 am went to top at same time as many others (13:15 Chinese Time). On top were prayer flags and from top saw Everest and Lhotse. Down to C3 at 16:00 hours and slept there. On 14th in descent from C3 Hoek Van Dyke slipped on ice down 50m, hit Boslooper and both fell (he got black eyes). Slept in C2 14 May and ABC 15 May (Hoek Van Dyka carried by Tibetan porters from C1 to ABC). 

  Boslooper froze one finger climbing from C3 to top but will heal. Ice climbing was very hard; Sherpa said there was more ice than normal.

  Sherpas: 
    Phurba Pasang, Charwo, Sotang, 6 Oct 58, Cho Oyu X3
    Namgyal, 1977, Rakha-5, Khotang, Cho Oyu X1


expid: CHOY03106
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Thomas Laemmle
sponsor: DAV Summit Club Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 2003-04-17
smtdate: 2003-05-13
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2003-05-16
campsites: BC(17/04,4900m),ABC(20/04,5700m),C1(28/04,6440m),C2(11/05,7000m),C3(12/05,7500m),Smt(13/05)
accidents: Giesseler and Simon pulmonary edema
agency: International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
routememo:
  ABC at higher than many others in others.

  Giesseler pulmonary edema in C3 12 May and Laemmle brought him to C2 at midnight (left C3 at 10:00 pm). 1:00 am on 13th Laemmle up to C3 again and on to top with skis and on top later than others and skied down from 2:00 pm at highest point to 7800m where rock intervened again from 7600m to serac at 6800m, from 6750m to about 6000m where snow stops; broke descent to pack up C3 and carry 25 kg load and again at C2 where stayed night of 13 May with other summiters on C2.


expid: CHOY03107
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Carlalberto Cimenti
sponsor: Independent team on Cho Oyu
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2003-04-15
smtdate: 2003-05-12
termdate: 2003-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to weather, very high wind and lack of time
campsites: BC(16/04,4900m),ABC(19/04,5700m),C1(22/04,6500m),C2(11/05,7100m),C3(12/05,7500m),xxx(12/05,7500m)
accidents: Sore throat of Dellupi
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 occupied by Climenti, Dellupi and Facchinetti; C2 and C3 by Climenti and Facchinetti. Dellupi left ABC on 11 May for KTM due to sore throat and then went for Jomsom trekking from May 15 to 21. At C1 two tents were damaged badly due to storm. Weather conditions were very bad, storm occurred for several days.

  The two members Climenti and Facchinetti arrived KTM on May 23 and Dellupi came from trek on 21. All will leave on 24.


expid: CHOY03108
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Richard Bolt
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Cho Oyu Expedition 2003
approach: Lhasa->Shigatse->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2003-04-27
smtdate: 2003-05-20
termdate: 2003-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 7550m due to storm & weather conditions
campsites: BC(27/04,4900m),ABC(30/04,5700m),C1(05/05,6400m),C2(13/05,7050m),xxx(20/05,7550m)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  C1 occupied by Bieter, Bolt, Brodard, Leuthold, Nussbaumer and Ongdi Sherpa. C2 occupied on May 13 by Bieter, Bolt, Brodard, Jost, Leuthold and Ongdi and Pasang. 

  Ulrich left ABC on May 5 sore throat; left Nepal on/about May 7 or 8. 
  Isepponi and Nussbaumer left ABC on May 13 due to exhaustion; left Nepal on 18th. 

  The expedition waited and made attempt on 20th. They got up to 7550m (Bolt, Brodard and Ongdi together with Pasang). This was the last expedition to leave BC.


expid: CHOY03109
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: Spain
leaders: Mikel Alvaraz
sponsor: Cho Oyu International Expedition 2003
countries: Australia
bcdate: 2003-04-05
smtdate: 2003-05-13
termdate: 2003-05-15
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to Falahey exhausted and frostbitten
othersmts: Attempted Lhotse (LHOT-031-02)
campsites: BC(05/04),ABC(09/04,5700m),C1(13/04,6400m),C2(11/05,7000m),C3(12/05,7500m),xxx(13/05,8000m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  High point at 8000m at summit plateau.

  13 April 2 Spaniards went to C1 and had to stay there because of deep snow. 17 April 2 Spaniards with 2 French members and their 2 Sherpas, climbed up to 6600m, up 400m steep rock - then many rocks were falling and retreated to ABC. 23rd all 3 members (& 2 French) returned to C1. 24th 3 members climbed to 6800m in late afternoon; very steep rock and again down, Alvarez to ABC, Rodriguez and Falahey to C1 to sleep. 25th Rodriguez and Falahey to ABC. 27th all 3 members up from C1 for summit push. 28th 3 members reached 6800m, then were stopped by strong winds so back to C1. Spent 3 days in C1 waiting for better weather, then down to ABC and climb finished, at least for 2 Spaniards. But Falahey, who had arrived after 2 Spaniards, stayed on at ABC with Australians led by Paul Carr.

  Alvarez went over to Everest BC to attempt Lhotse.

  19 May - Falahey: he stayed on after Spaniards left on 2-3 May. Australian police were his friends and shared their BC services, but never really climbed with them. Went up to C1 several times, but wind terrible for 7 straight days. 11 May to C2 at 7000m and slept there one night. 12 May to C3 and slept there at 7500m. 13 May summit push alone and got to 8100m, on to summit plateau, then down because several more hours climb to highest point and back. Fingers had started freezing (gloves too bulky for jumar and had to take out bulky inner gloves and then fingers were getting very cold). Down to C3 and put hands in hot water; now alone in Amical tent since German tent mate had gone down. 14 May waited for break in then down to C2, stayed an hour, down to C1, packed that up too knowing climb finished. Was having vomitting problem and feeling very bad. Left ABC and BC 15 May.


expid: CHOY03110
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: Australia
leaders: Duncan Chessell
sponsor: DCXP Cho Oyu & Xixabangma Expedition 2003
countries: Iceland
bcdate: 2003-04-19
smtdate: 2003-05-11
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2003-05-18
othersmts: Climbed a peak of Labchi Kang and Xixabangma; (Labchi Kang 7367m, 20 km NW of Cho Oyu in Tibet)
campsites: BC(19/04,4900m),ABC(04/05,5650m),C1(08/05,6400m),C2(09/05,7000m),C3(15/05,7600m),Smt(11,16/05)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  From BC climbed a peak of Labchi Kang and returned to BC 2nd May. 11 May from C2 went to top; left 1:00 am NST: Chessell, Jackson, Jyamchang Bhote and all 3 top 2:30 pm with Jagged Globe members. Took time fixing rope. Found proper flags on top and despite not being able to see Everest through clouds, Chessell knew it was correct point since Chessell had been there before. Returned C2 6:30 pm and slept there. 

  2nd summit team on top (was Tshering's 2nd Cho Oyu ascent) at 8:30 am; climbed from C3 and slept in C2.

  Oxygen for summit parties used by members climbing from C2 to top, down to 8000m for Chessell and others to C2. Bhotes did not use at all; used by Weeks from C2 to BC with edema.

  Labchi Kang, 7367m, 20 km northwest of Cho Oyu in Tibet. All Australian members reached subsidiary peak in Labchi Kang group on 30 April. After Cho Oyu went to Xixabangma but too tired to go higher than C1 (6200m).

  (Janssen did not go to Cho Oyu because toes frostbitten on Labchi Kang).

  Nepalese summiters:
    Jyamchang Bhote, 20/2/78, Farang VDC, Sankhuwasabha, 1st 8000er
    Tshering Palden Bhote, 13/4/81, Hungung village, Cho Oyu 14/5/02


expid: CHOY03111
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Terry Moore
sponsor: Jagged Globe Cho Oyu Expedition 2003
countries: Australia, Netherlands, Norway, USA
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2003-04-20
smtdate: 2003-05-11
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2003-05-20
campsites: BC(20/04,4900m),ABC(23/04,5650m),C1(28/04,6400m),C2(09/05,7200m),C3(10/05,7400m),Smt(11/05)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  May 11 Robb, Sunde-Rasmussen, Pasang Tshering and Dawa Gelji Sherpa left C3 at 03:30 hours (NST). First to reach summit was Sunde-Rasmussen at 14:00 hours (this was his third attempt) followed by Sherpas. Waited for Robb for about an hour. Dawa Gelji went down to get Robb who arrived to summit around 15:00 hours. Stayed about 30 minutes and descended to C2 where Sunde-Rasmussen and two Sherpas arrived at about 19:00 hours. All members were very exhausted. The weather was foggy - no view. Sunde-Rasmussen said that he saw on the summit prayer flags tied in bamboo pole and ice bar. All four descended to ABC on 12th. The expedition waited for second team attempt but there was no improvement in weather - it was very windy. Then decided to call off on May 16. Members KTM return were in different dates. The last team returned to KTM on May 22. The expedition Sherpas and members help in evacuating the dead member of Amical Expedition on 14th at C2.

  - Bonney went up to 6400m (C1), very slow.
  - Hunt and Huskins up to C2 on 9th May. Hunt got chest infection. Had to
    leave BC on 13th. Huskins accompanied him. Probably both left Nepal on May 15.
  - Jansen to ABC - making a movie - leaves Nepal on June 13. 
  - Moore went up to C2 on May 15. Descended to ABC on 16th due to very high wind -
    leaves Nepal on May 26th.
  - Moerck was with Moore - same activity, leaves Nepal on May 26th.
  - Robb summited, left BC on 15th and probably left Nepal on 17 or 18th.
  - Snyder up to C1 on April 28 - developed heart palpitation, left BC on 
    May 4th accompanied by Brian Taylor.
  - Sunde-Rasmussen summited left BC on 15th. Then to Chitwan - met him on 26th. 
    Will stay for few more days.
  - Taylor, Brian up to C1 - problem started with kidney stone and left with Snyder.
  - Taylor, Robin up to C1 - got homesick left BC on 9th and left country after
    a few days.

  - First ascent of the season

  Sherpa summiters: 
    Dawa Gelji, Chankhu-4, Dolakha, 18/4/75, 1st 8000er
    Pasang Tshering/Tshiring, Beding, 10/4/63, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X3


expid: CHOY03112
peakid: CHOY
year: 2003
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Hajo Netzer
sponsor: Amical Alpin Cho Oyu Expedition 2003
countries: Austria
bcdate: 2003-04-18
smtdate: 2003-05-13
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2003-05-19
campsites: BC(18/04,5000m),ABC(21/04,5700m),C1(26/04,6350m),C2(05/05,7000m),C3(12/05,7450m),Smt(13/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C2 above seracs on small plate.

  Summiters saw flags at top and Everest from top: 10:30 [Antoni?] and 2 Sherpas, 11:30 Netzer, Heller 12:15, Barsch-Gollnau 1:30pm with Becker. 

  Second group intended to make summit bid, but needed to bring down Held, who had been in 1st summit party but not to top. Held to C3. 

  Welkisch also in 1st party, turned back at 7500m at 6:00 am with frostbitten fingers, down to C2 alone; Sippel up to C2 13 May and met him in tent, then was Ok. Sippel spent night there with Antoni. Welkisch went to C1 with 3 members, was exhausted. 3 teammates tried to give him oral medication but he was now unconscious and he died in half hour. Death was caused by swift onset of fatal cerebral edema. Buried in crevasse at 6900m with family's agreement. 

  13th very cold and constant winds these days. Becker's finger got frostbitten while coming for Held, taking off gloves to give injections.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Tapche Bhote, 24/11/72, Makalu VDC, 1st 8000er
    Chuldim Sherpa, Khumjung, 23/7/64, 1st 8000er

accidents:
  Held cerebral edema 13 May and evacuated to ABC; Becker frostbitten fingers; Welkisch died from cerebral edema


expid: DHA103101
peakid: DHA1
year: 2003
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Olaf Reeder
sponsor: Oberhaching Dhaulagiri Expedition 2003
approach: Tatopani->Dabang->Sibang->Paga->Puchha->Italian BC
bcdate: 2003-04-21
smtdate: 2003-05-09
termdate: 2003-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 6750m due to heavy snow, no Sherpas
campsites: BC(21/04,4700m),C1(26/04,5850m),C2(09/05,6750m),xxx(09/05,6750m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Both members occupied C1 on April 26. On May 9 C2 was used by Olaf Reeder. Sabine Baumgaertner-Reeder suffered from cold. After that no climbing by the team. Returned to KTM on May 28 and will leave on 30th.


expid: DHA103102
peakid: DHA1
year: 2003
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Sweden
leaders: Joakim Ahlin
sponsor: First Swedish Dhaulagiri Expedition 2003
ascent1: 112
approach: Beni->Marpha->French Pass
bcdate: 2003-04-17
smtdate: 2003-05-20
smttime: 1510
termdate: 2003-05-25
campsites: BC(17/04,4700m),C1(21/04,5700m),C2(26/04,6700m),C3(19/05,7400m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  May 20: Flock, Jonsson, Strang, Lhakpa and Kame left C3 at 04:00 hours; summit by Strang and Kame at 15:10 hours stayed about 10 minutes. Summiters helped in rescue work of one member of Amical. Took about 4 hours to bring him down to C3 from about 7800m. Flock and Jonsson were slow and had to return from 7700m to C3 around 17:00/18:00 hours. They left for KTM on 23rd. 

  Ahlin went up to 6000m. He suffered from pneumonia on April 21st. Also seen blood in his cough. Remained in BC throughout the expedition. Bornefalk suffered from dehydration of kidney-like sugar problem at C2 on April 26 went down to BC. Rested for two days and walked out on 29th April for KTM. The summiter went to KTM on 23rd. Rest returned on 28th and will leave on June 3. 

  The expedition lost a tent containing lots of equipments that was blown away by storm.

  Sherpas:
    Kame Sherpa (39) 1962
      Kerung-4, Bagam , Solu
      Lhotse 98 (USA); Everest 96, 97, 99, 2002; Cho Oyu 2001
    Ngima Sherpa (2032-5-14)
      Tapting-1, Chyangba, Solukhumbu
      (up to C4 [7800m?]- had to be with member)
    Lhakpa Gyalge Sherpa (24-6-1971)
      Tapting-1, Chyangba, Solukhumbu
      (up to C3)


expid: DHA103103
peakid: DHA1
year: 2003
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Chile
leaders: Jorge Cartegena Caceres
sponsor: Chilean Expedition 2003
approach: Beni->Mori->Italian BC
bcdate: 2003-03-31
smtdate: 2003-04-24
termdate: 2003-05-11
termnote: Abandoned at 4700m due to storm, snow condition & lack of time
campsites: BC(31/03,4700m),C1(14/04,5700m),C2(24/04,6700m),xxx(24/04,6700m)
agency: Ang Rita Treks
routememo:
  BC at usual campsite
  Highpoint at C2.

  Cartagena Caceres had severe tootache and left BC on 28th with Valle which took them four days to reach Marpha. Where as in 1998 Cartagena Caceres did the same distance in seven and half hours. Trail condition was very bad with deep snow and storm. Cattan and Garcia left BC for Marpha on 9th. C1 was first occupied on April 14 by Cartagena Caceres and Valle. C2 was first occupied on April 24 by Ance Parra, Cartegena Caceres, Luchsinger and Valle. C2 was the highest point the members could reach. The expedition was the first one to reach the BC. The tents (two tents) with supplies, ropes, equipments were taken under avalanche on May 1st or 2nd. On May 5th the storm was very strong (130 km/hr). It damaged two tents at BC. The tents in BC were all under snow. The expedition returned together on May 16 and will leave on 19th.

  Sherpas:
    Dorjee Sherpa (31), Pare VDC-5, Thami, summited Everest with Appa in 2000
    Gyalu Sherpa

  Both the Sherpas reached close to C2


expid: DHA103104
peakid: DHA1
year: 2003
route1: NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Christophe Lafaille
sponsor: Independent climber on Dhaulagiri
ascent1: 109
approach: Pokhara->Jomsom->Yak Kharka->Dhampus
bcdate: 2003-04-23
smtdate: 2003-05-20
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2003-05-21
campsites: BC(23/04,4700m),C1(24/04,5800m),C2(25/04,6800m),C3(19/05,7400m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Left C3 at 04:20, summited at 10:00 hours, descended to BC where he reached around 17:00 hours. Weather was windy, cold in the morning. 

  Leaving for "Nanga" in Pakistan on 30th.


expid: DHA103105
peakid: DHA1
year: 2003
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Klaus Pangracz
sponsor: Saxony Twins to Dhaulagiri
bcdate: 2003-04-13
smtdate: 2003-04-17
termdate: 2003-05-09
termnote: Abandoned at 5700m due to bad weather and lack of time
campsites: BC(13/04,4600m),C1(17/04,5700m),xxx(17/04,5700m)
accidents: Nothing
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C1 at NE col (normal site)
  High point at C1.

  Big storm on 22nd April smashed tent at C1 while team was in BC. 25 April went up to C1 to see tent flattened; pitched new tent but down to BC. Weather very bad all these days with fierce wind and much snowfall even at BC and dining tent destroyed on 3 May. 5th May storm ended, so up again 6th May to C1 and then found C1 had been totally destroyed in 1 May storm and snow very deep; dug out what could be recovered but climb finished. Now no time to carry on climbing because flight from KTM 19 May. Both members climb together all the time.


expid: DHA103106
peakid: DHA1
year: 2003
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Jochen Haase
sponsor: Amical Alpin Dhaulagiri I Expedition 2003
ascent1: 110
countries: Austria, Switzerland
approach: Tatopani->Dabang->Sibang->Paga->Puchha->Italian BC
bcdate: 2003-04-21
smtdate: 2003-05-20
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2003-05-26
campsites: BC(21/04,4700m),C1(26/04,5850m),C2(09/05,6750m),C3(19/05,7350m),Smt(20/05)
accidents: Members fell down and frostbite
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at usual site.
  C1 at NE Col - normal site
  Highpoint at C1.

  May 20: Fuess, Haase, Popp, Porsche, Sontag, Von Preysing and Pemba Sherpa left at 04:00 hours. Haase, Porsche, Von Preysing and Pemba reached summit around 13:00 hours and stayed about 45 minutes. Weather was good with mild wind. Lafaille was on summit may be about 2 hours before. Other summiters were from Saxon expedition and Swedish one member with Sherpa.

  Fuess reached about 7700m very slow, returned to C3. Popp felt very cold; he did only about 30 minutes climbing and retreated. Sotang also returned with Fuess. Porsche bivouacked at 7700m, scared to go down so decided to bivouac. Next day 21st found frostbite on finger tips of both hands. Von Preysing was slow on way up. While descending about 14:00 hours, he fell about 50m, bumped on one Saxon member and both tumbled down, but not injured. Von Preysing in fact had problem of disorientation - probably sight problem. He was not in good balance while walking. Von Preysing was supported with oxygen brought up by Sherpas. Getting him down was a difficult work. The team had to wait for more ropes and oxygen; the other Swedish climber also helped. It was very cold above (-50 degrees). To get him to C3 took about 7 hours. On 22nd down to BC and flown to KTM on 23rd by helicopter and left Nepal on 24th. Von Preysing got frostbite both hands, nose, right ear and toes - very badly. Haase said total recovery may be difficult.

  - Binsack (Miss) up to C2 exhausted and back pain
  - Haase, Karina to C3 - vomited, could not eat - did not continue
  - Rackl accompanied Binsack to BC - no time for climbing
  - Sontag and Fuess to 7700m, together went down
  - Vedani went up to 7000m - it was difficult for him to climb
  - Popp and Vedani accompanied two frostbitten members to KTM on 23rd
  - Binsack and Rackl left BC 25th for KTM - they left Nepal on 27th
  - rest of members will leave Nepal on 30th


expid: DHA103107
peakid: DHA1
year: 2003
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Goetz Wiegand
sponsor: Saxony Himalaya Expedition 2003
ascent1: 111
countries: Switzerland
approach: Jomsom->Dhampus Pass->Tashi Kang Peak and Hidden Valley
bcdate: 2003-04-25
smtdate: 2003-05-20
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2003-05-25
othersmts: Climbed Tashi Kang (TASH-031-01) and unnamed peak
campsites: BC(25/04,4668m),C1(07/05,5889m),C2(10/05,,6742m),C3(19/05,7416m),Smt(20/05)
accidents: No health problems
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 4668m normal route
  C1 at 5889m at NE Col
  C2 at 6742m at NE Ridge before its steep section
  C3 at 7416m at NE Ridge (only very small ridge).

  9th May slept on 1st 6540m and 10th May moved camp because it use too far from next camp's site. No avalanche problems throught out climb but very windy. Zill only member on top: Wiegand was 50m below top when member of Amical team, who had no ice axe fell on Wiegand and both fell 600m into deep snow below. Fast descent on steep ice. No others to top.


  Unnamed Peak

  Approach: Jomsom (by air), acclimatization trek towards Tilicho Lake; then Marpha and Dhampus Pass.

  Route : WSW Ridge and down E Ridge

  BC 04/13 at 4869m North of Dhampus Pass in Hidden Valley
  C1 at 04/17 at 5850m near top of unnamed peak
  Summited on 18 April by Miss Beltrame, Koehler, Kohlschmidt, Kuehne, Meutzner, Wiegand, Zill.
  1st Ascent?


expid: DHA203101
peakid: DHA2
year: 2003
route1: S Face-E Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Pavel Trefil
sponsor: Banik Havirov Dhaulagiri II Expedition
approach: Myagdi Khola->Chatare->Pakaban->Saurabon Glacier
bcdate: 2003-04-27
smtdate: 2003-05-17
termdate: 2003-05-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to avalanche danger
campsites: BC(27/04,3600m),C1(08/05,4600m),C2(12/05,5200m),C3(14/05,5700m),C4(16/05,6500m),xxx(17/05,6600m)
agency: Everest Adventure
routememo:
  BC Khola southeast of mountain
  C1 amongst rocks
  C2 at glacier at Tsausabag Glacier
  C4 at Tsausabag Glacier
  C4 at Tsausabag Glacier
  High point at glacier ridge.

  Bad snow condition with avalanche danger, so did not actually got onto face. Intended route was South Face to East Ridge.


expid: DORJ03101
peakid: DORJ
year: 2003
route1: W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hirofumi Oka
sponsor: Dorje Lhakpa 2003
ascent1: 17th
approach: Trisuli->Dhunche->Syabrubesi (by bus)->Langtang->Yak Kharka
bcdate: 2003-02-28
smtdate: 2003-03-19
smttime: 1241
termdate: 2003-03-21
campsites: BC(28/02,4800m),C1(03/03,5400m),C2(06/03,5700m),C3(08/03,6050m),Smt(19/03)
agency: Nomad Expeditions
routememo:
  BC at 4800m at Glacier (usual BC site).

  March 19: Oka, Toyama and Gelbu Sherpa left C3 at 02:00 hours, reached summit at 12:41 hours, stayed about 30 minutes and back to C3 at 18:40 hours. Next day to BC. Summiters said they had seen Everest Makalu, Nuptse, Sishapangma from the summit. Weather was clear at the time of summit.

  First attempt by Morita and Toyama on 15th. They reached up to 6700m, but due to bad weather and exhaustion had to retreat.

  Second attempt on 17th by Noritomi, Toyama and Yamaguchi also had to retreat from 6700m due to bad weather.


expid: EVER03101
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yuichiro Miura
sponsor: Miura Everest 2003
bcdate: 2003-04-07
smtdate: 2003-05-22
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2003-05-26
accidents: Nothing serious - 'we are very lucky'
achievment: Oldest summiter; 1st Japanese father and son together
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
campsites:
  BC(07/04,5300m),C1(11/04,6050m),C2(15/04,6400m),C3(17/05,7100m),C4(18/05,7950m),C5(20/05),Smt(22/04)

routememo:
  BC at 5300m lowest of all BCs
  C1 at 6050m top of Icefall
  C2 at 6400m W Cwm
  C3 at 7100m Lhotse face (lower than others)
  C4 at 7950m South Col
  C5 at 8400m below balcony between rocks (2 tents).

  In C5 4 people (all the summiters) in tents; arrived 3:45 pm on 20 May. Had to stay in C5 2 nights because of strong winds preventing 3 Sherpas to come up from C4 to join 3 men and 3 Sherpas at C5. On 21 May these Sherpas did come up bringing more oxygen with them. 3:15 am 22 May all 9 summiters left C5 for top and all arrived at top about 9:00 am and took over 3 hours to get to top because 40 people mired down because 3 members of Adventure International Expedition team were extremely slow. All people behind were in danger if weather turned bad and Miura had to wait 30 min in one spot, 15 minutes at another. 3 Adventure International were first in line and did not allow any one to pass them while they themselves waited 20 minutes. "I thought they were pretty bad" (Gota). Gota was first in this party and father right behind. Yuichiro Miura felling strong ("was plenty of oxygen," Gota). Yuichiro Miura "it was end of very long journey" when haw was at top. His oxygen ran out 50m, below top so "reached summit without oxygen" (joke) and "felt very peaceful and very happy" (Ishikawa in 2002, being carried up, etc., "very bad"). Slept in C4 that night; got there at 6:30 pm, 15 minutes before sunset. No traffic jam coming down. Had spent 45 minutes on top and left 1:00 pm and went down slowly to be safe. His oxygen had run out without his knowing but soon resumed use.

  All members should have arrived KTM 26 May, but Russian pilot demanded $6000 cash for others to come down that day.

  Igarashi and Yuta Miura went through mountain's Icefall once.

  Oxygen use - total bottles used: 86

  Yuichiro Miura, sleeping in C1 11 May; sleeping in C2 and all way C2 to top and back to C2 and in C2.

  Gota Miura and Muraguchi used it 14 May in C2 sleeping there in last 2 days in C2, C3 sleeping, climbing 7700m to top and back to 7700m.

  Oxygen Sherpas:

  2 Sherpas with Miuras, Nga Temba and Domey, Tshering Sherpas, sleeping in C3; went to Col with Miura and Domey, returned to C2. 

  Oxygen Summit Sherpas: sleeping in C4 (except Norbu climbing from C4 to top and stopped in descent) - other 5 summit Sherpas from C4 to top and down to C4.

  Used a lot of oxygen, but without it we would have died.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Chuwang Nima, Thami, Everest X9, Cho Oyu X1
    Phur Gyalzen, Thami, (2027), 1st 8000er
    Nima Nuru, Thami, (21/7/2038), Everest X1, Chuwang Nima's brother
    Norbu, Beding, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X6, Lhotse and Gasherbrum II
    Na/Nga Temba, Sikli, Everest X8, Cho Oyu X2
    Pemba Nuru, Beding, (7/4/2036), 1st 8000er


expid: EVER03102
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Tateo Yamashita
sponsor: Yamashita Tateo Qomolangma Expedition Kitakyusyu
bcdate: 2003-04-21
smtdate: 2003-05-18
termdate: 2003-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 8600m due to bad weather and 'no food, no oxygen, no more power'
campsites: BC(21/04),ABC(20/04,6400m),C1(26/04,7040m),C2(16/05,7700m),C3(17/05,8300m),xxx(18/05,8600m)
accidents: Nothing serious, but Watanabe high fever and bad throat and Noda chest pain
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  C1 at 7040m at North Col
  C2 at 7700m North Face
  C3 at 8300m North Face
  xxx at 8600m at North Ridge bottom of 2nd Step.

  Stopped at 8600m because clouds coming from west and strong wind and very cold in summit bid and down to 7700m to sleep and climb finished: "no more oxygen, no more food, no more power." Had deposited food, oxygen, gear in C1 but all blown away in fierce winds on 4 May. Oxygen used by Yamamoto and Yamashita from 7000m climbing and sleeping to 8600m and down to 7700m camp; Nawang Tenzing and Phurba Thundup from 7700m to 8600m to 7700m.

  Watanabe went up to 7300m on 18 May and no higher
  Noda left expedition 10 May


expid: EVER03103
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Ang Chhiring Sherpa
sponsor: Nepali Journalist's First Everest Expedition 2003
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2003-04-22
smtdate: 2003-05-22
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2003-05-25
campsites: BC(22/04,5400m),C1(01/05,6000m),C2(10/05,6500m),Smt(22/05)
achievment: 1st Nepali journalist
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at Everest BC.

  While returning from C2 to BC due to wind had to spend night at C1. Left C2 on May 20 at 04:00 hours. Arrived South Col at 15:00 hours. Rested at South Col, then left towards summit at 22:00 hours. When he arrived about 8400m, 500m below Balcony other climbers started descending because there was no route opening for Sherpa team and also started storm, Ang Chhiring too came down to South Col. 

  It was 23:30 hours on 21st. Ang Chhiring and other team members started at 23:40 hours. Ang Chhiring met the first summiter group of Belgians and Sherpas descending at Hillary Step. He reached the summit at 12:00 Noon of 22nd. Stayed about 10 minutes on summit where about 25-30 people were there from both north and south side on the summit. He met son of Ang Rita Chuwang Dorjee who came from north side and Chhiring reached South Col before 16:00 hours. Slept at South Col on 23rd to C2. 24th to BC. Ang Chhiring arrive KTM from Lukla on 28th.

  He reported the news from the summit via satellite phone to Kantipur office in KTM. He also dug a hole about a foot deep and buried the "Kalash" (holy water Jar for world peace) which was given to him by Rimpoche of Tengboche monastery.

  He did not use other camps. Ang Chhiring stayed 10 or 11 days at C2, waiting for good weather.

  Ang Chhiring would like to know, if possible, if he is the first journalist to summit Everest.


  Ang Chhiring to Jeevan Shrestha - 4 July 2004

  Pemba Nuru Sherpa (from Pare near Thami) who was with French Everest South in spr 2003 led by Asselin, was on summit when Ang Chhiring arrived there. The French member he had been within a summit bid turn back, but Pemba Nuru Continued to top and arrived there 15-20 minutes before Ang Chhiring. He took pictures of Ang Chhiring and they descended together to BC, Pemba Nuru gave him some help during the descent and Ang Chhiring tipped him for this at BC.


expid: EVER03104
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Ashok Abbey (Indian team)
sponsor: Indo-Nepal Army Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2003
countries: Nepal
bcdate: 2003-04-01
smtdate: 2003-05-22
smttime: 0650
termdate: 2003-05-28
othersmts: Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-031-03)
campsites: BC(01/04),C1(17/04,4511m),C2(10/05,6858m),C3(19/05,7315m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(22,26/05)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
primid: LHOT03103
routememo:
  1st summit bid on 21st by 6 Indian Army [Abhijeet Singh, Laxman Singh, Angchuk Chhering, Mohinder Singh, Jagat Singh], 5 RNA and 5 Sherpas got to balcony and turned back because of wind which increased in strength when they arrived there and ropes that fixed above it yet.

  2nd bid by all summiters; left C4 at 7:00 pm on 21 May and on top 6:50 am 22nd and slept in C4. 2nd summit team was meant to be 24 hours behind 1st team, but since 1st team failed some members of next team stopped at C2. 

  3rd bid 24th from C2 to C4 and 2th rested there. 25th left C4 for top at 8:30 pm and on top 4:30 am 26th.

  Oxygen used by all attempting climbers (except Angchuk in unsuccessful bid on 21st): from C3 to top to C4.

  Summit Sherpas:

  22nd May: Pasang Rinji, Everest X1, Lhotse 13/5/03, Anna X1
            Pemba Rinzi, Kharikhola, Everest X4
            Pemba Tshering, Khunde, 34 years old, Lhotse 13/5/03

  26th May: Dendi, Khunde, 34 years old, Everest X1, Gudel
            Damai Chhiri, Kharikhola, 19/6/75, 1st 8000er
            Pasang, Thamakhani (Loding) VDC, 5/2/2033, 1st 8000er
            Pasang Rita, Thamo, 17/12/77, 1st 8000er


expid: EVER03105
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Surya Sen Thakuri (Nepalese team)
sponsor: Indo-Nepal Army Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2003
bcdate: 2003-04-02
smtdate: 2003-05-22
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2003-05-28
othersmts: Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-031-04)
campsites: BC(02/04,5350m),C1(07/04,5943m),C2(16/04,6492m),C3(18/04,7315m),C4(27/04,7900m),Smt(22,26/05)
accidents: Bhim Bahadur Gurung fatal fall
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
primid: LHOT03104
routememo:
  C1 at 5943m top of Icefall
  C2 at 6492m in Western Cwm
  C3 at 7315m on Lhotse Face
  C4 at 7900m at South Col.

  1st summit bid on 21 May, reached 8300m and down to C4 because wind and cold, had started at 7:45 pm of 20st. 7 members and 3 Sherpas: Ram Chandra Shrestha, Hari Bahadur Basnet, Lok Bahadur Thapa Magar, Shree Bahadur Tamang, Bhim Bahadur Bhujel, Gyanendra Laudari and Lhakpa, Pemba Gyalzen and Ang Nima (no 8000ers before). Returned to C4 3:00 am.

  Next bid was successful by Lok Bahadur Thapa Magar, Sunil Singh Rathor, Dut Bahadur Budha Magar, Hari Bahadur Basnet and same 3 Sherpas. Left C4 9:45 pm 21st and on top 6:15 - 8:15 am (some delayed by oxygen problem) and returned to C4 at 4:00 pm and slept there. 

  2nd successful bid left C4 25th 9:45 pm and on top 7:15 am - 8:15 am. Returned to C2 to sleep at 6:45 pm. Oxygen used sleeping in C3 by some and by all summit party in C4 to top and down to C4 by most, some down to balcony by both summit porters.

  Bhim Bahadur Gurung died coming down Icefall just below C1; fell into 150 ft deep crevasse, hit his head, spinal chord broken; body recovered in 4 hours (at 11:00 am) by 5 men and body brought to KTM for cremation on 28 May.

  This expedition put brass Nepali flag on the summit [placed by Lhakpa Gelu].

  Sherpa Summiters:

  22/5: Pemba Gyalzen, Thamo, 22/7/69, Cho Oyu X1
        Ang Nima, Junbesi, Solu, 6/6/81, 1st 8000er
        Lhakpa, Khijiphalate VDC, Okhaldhunga, 19/8/72, 1st 8000er
        
  26/5: Pasang Tendi, Kharikhola, 19/6/74, Everest X1
        Nawang Zimba, Beding, 1955, 1st 8000er


expid: EVER03106
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kiyoshi Ishii
sponsor: Club Yeti Everest Expedition
approach: Lukla->Dingboche->Island Peak->BC
bcdate: 2003-03-30
smtdate: 2003-05-11
termdate: 2003-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 7650m due to shortage of ropes and bad weather
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (Inokuma, Kimura and Takahashi on March 22)
campsites: BC(30/03,5350m),C1(03/04,6050m),C2(10/04,6470m),C3(17/04,6900m),C4(10/05,7450m),xxx(11/05,7650m)
accidents: Tenzing Gelji Sherpa got high altitude sickness at C2 (sent back to home)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  May 11: Inokuma, Okamoto and three Sherpas left C4 at 09:30 hours; at 7650m no more ropes left. Returned to C4 at about 15:00 hours. Next day to BC. Inokuma, Kimura and Okamoto left BC on 22nd. 

  Only team on this route. Will leave Nepal on 31st.


expid: EVER03107
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Robert Hoffman
sponsor: Everest 2003 - An American Commemorative Expedition
bcdate: 2003-04-12
smtdate: 2003-05-26
smttime: 0340
termdate: 2003-05-30
campsites: BC(12/04),C1(23/04,6100m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(23/05,7315m),C4(24/05,7900m),Smt(26/05)
accidents: Hoffman badly frostbitten fingers and toes; Pemba Nuru slight frostbite
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 at West Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Had to wait 5 days in BC for the auspicious 17 April for pujas. 30 April down to BC when big storm hit and tore up tents. Up again in early May but down again. 16th May up again to C1, 17/5 to C2, stayed in C2 waiting for good weather. Stayed at C4 on 25th and night of 25th went for top at 8:30 pm; Shephard and Boice (stopped at South Summit because fingers threatened to get frostbitten; Nawang Sherpa, who climbed with Shephard also turned back with him). Apa on top at 3:40 am; Hoffman 7:30 am, O'Connor at 7:40 am and rest of Sherpas in between; Vadasz at 6:00 am and Burch at 7:05 am. Hoffman on summit had oxygen mask problem and took over 8 hours to descent from top to balcony; had fallen over, then crawled and slid to balcony, where Apa came up from C4 with a new mask (probably about 3 pm) and back to C4 at 7:00 pm. Managed to descend on feet but with considerable help by Sherpas.

  Oxygen: Summit team: all members of summit bid team used oxygen climbing from C3 to C4, in C4, to their high points to C4 and in C4. Hoffman (frostbitten) also used it in descent from C4 to bottom of Lhotse Face.

  All Sherpas in summit bid used oxygen in C4, to top to and in C4.

  Members who left early:
    Huss and Smith left 24 May to return to work
    Rawley reached BC only, left 24 Apr cold, unhappy, mountain not for him


expid: EVER03108
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: David Hahn
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) South Side Everest Expedition 2003
countries: UK
bcdate: 2003-04-06
smtdate: 2003-05-30
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2003-06-02
campsites: BC(06/04),C1(15/04,6065m),C2(23/04,24,6249m),C3(07/05,7300m),C4(28/05,7900m),Smt(30/05)
accidents: Johnson 1 frostbitten toe
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in W Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Summit bid: left C4 at 10:00 pm 29 May and all on summit: 7:30 am by Mingma Chhiring, Hahn and Johnson at 7:55 and last was at 8:10 am and all in C4 for the night. C2 on 31st. Had made an earlier attempt to go to top but got higher than C3 on 20th May by Hahn, Johnson, Marshall, Pierce Jones, Richards and Sherpas.

  Sherpas: 
    Ang Pasang, Pangboche Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2
    Kami Tshering, aka Ang Tshering, Pangboche, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X2
    Mingma Chhiring, Phortse, 27 yrs old, brother of Panuru and Dawa Nuru/Danuru, 
      1st 8000er
    Dorje Lama, Bakannje, Everest X1

  Oxygen: 
    1) 7-8 May by Hahn, Johnson, Marshall, Richards sleeping in C3
       practicing climb to Yellow Band
    2) 20 May by Hahn, Johnson, Marshall, Pierce Jones, Richards
       in C3. On summit push starting on 27 May: sleeping in C3
       by Johnson, Marshall and Pierce Jones; by these three and
       Hahn climbing to C4, sleeping there, to top, returning to C4
       and sleeping in C4.

  Hyde left expedition 25 May as he was worn out
  Richards also left 25 May to meet other commitments


expid: EVER03109
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Steven Marolt
sponsor: Aspen Alpine Club Expedition 2003
bcdate: 2003-04-09
smtdate: 2003-05-30
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2003-05-31
campsites: BC(09/04),ABC(16/04,6400m),C1(28/04,7000m),C2(21/05,7640m),C3(29/05,8200m),Smt(30/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  All members except Gibans found conditions too windy to go higher than C2 according to their policy of climbing conservatively when they had no Sherpas helping them and were using no oxygen, so they went only to C2, from where Mike Marolt, Steve Marolt and Oates skied down to ABC on 21 April. They took 1 hour from C2 to C1, stopped in C1 to rest and skied in 12 hours from C1 to ABC. On 26 April, Callahan, Dunnett and Gile skied down from C1 to ABC. Now climb finished for these 8 members.

  But Gibans was now moving in dependently from them. He had 1 Sherpa to put up his tent at C3 and help carry gear and he had his own oxygen supply. He went up for his summit push, arriving at C1 on 27 May, C2 on 28th, 29th to C3 and summited alone on 30th. He used oxygen his oxygen sleeping in C2 and all way to top and down to 7300m and slept in C1 30th. Left ABC and BC 31st.


expid: EVER03110
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Choongok Sunwoo
sponsor: Korean-American Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2003-04-01
smtdate: 2003-05-22
termdate: 2003-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 8400m due to bad weather conditions
campsites: BC(01/04,5300m),C1(10/04,5700m),C2(12/04,6200m),C3(15/04,7200m),C4(21/05,7900m),xxx(22/05,8400m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC usual BC site
  C4 at South Col
  High point below the balcony.

  Sunwoo left with 2 Sherpas at 21:00 hours from South Col. On 21st at about midnight had to return to South Col from below the Balcony, like many other climbers due to heavy wind. Sunwoo reached South Col about 02:00 hours on 22nd. Next day to C2. And following day to BC. 

  Sunwoo said that he may return to Everest south side. Sunwoo returned to KTM from Lukla on May 27 and will leave on 29th.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Geljin Sherpa (28), summited Everest from Tibet side in 2000 and 2001
    Pemba Sherpa (26) - no information


expid: EVER03111
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Bill Crouse
sponsor: Adventure Consultants on Everest 2003
countries: Australia
bcdate: 2003-04-17
smtdate: 2003-05-22
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2003-05-27
campsites: BC(17/04),C1(23/04,6100m),C2(29/04,6400m),C3(04/05,7300m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 at West Cwm
  C3 at Lhotse face
  C4 at South Col.

  All 4 members in summit bid turned back below the balcony while 3 Sherpas went on to the top. Crouse, Dyer and Gilman reached South Summit (8750m); Arnette and Lhakpa Tarke turned back at 8150m.

  Oxygen: all members used it sleeping in C3 20 and 21 May, climbing and sleeping from C3 to their high points, to C4, sleeping in C4; Crouse did not use it descending from C4 but other 3 members used it from C4 to C3 on 23rd. The 3 Sherpas used oxygen in C4 to top and in C4 night of 22nd.

  Crouse comment by phone on 31 May: the competence of the climbers this year was lower than before. "The Japanese team - not Miura's - were really, really slow."

  Sherpa summiters:
    Phu Tashi, Pangboche, Everest X3
    Pasang Tenzing, Everest X2
    Chuldim Dorje, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X3


expid: EVER03112
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Charles Wittmack
sponsor: Asian Trekking Everest Dream (on Belgian Huygh permit)
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2003-04-02
smtdate: 2003-05-22
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2003-05-26
campsites: BC(02/04,5250m),C1(09/04,5920m),C2(11/04,6400m),C3(21/04,7300m),C4(20/05,7954m),Smt(22/05)
accidents: Very minor sign of frostbitten finger
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  May 20 Wittmack and Sherpa left at 21:00 hours when reached below Balcony, but had to retreat due to storm.

  May 21 started from C4 at 21:00 hours, summit at 08:00 hours on 22nd; stayed about 15/20 minutes, then descended to C3 where Wittmack and Sherpa reached at 18:30 hours. Next day to BC.

  At summit there were about 8 people and 3 or 4 Sherpas. Two came from north side. He saw the Sherpa with traditional dress. 

  Next getting married [Wittmack].

  Sherpa: 
    Pasang Tharke, 31, Thami, 9/2028, Everest X1


expid: EVER03113
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Willi Prittie, Vernon Tejas
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Everest Expedition 2003
countries: Canada, UK
bcdate: 2003-04-12
smtdate: 2003-05-30
smttime: 1215
termdate: 2003-06-02
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),C1(23/04,6100m),C2(25/04,6500m),C3(10/05,7162m),C4(27/05,7900m),Smt(30/05)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 at West Cwm
  C3 at Lhotse face
  C4 at South Col.

  Summit party left on 29 May 9:00 pm and 11:00 pm: 9:00 pm by Mathy and Prittie and Obert, very slow and 2 Kami Rita's. Mathy and Prittie turned back because Mathy decided safer for him to retreat and Prittie as guide with him at 8550m at 5:00 am while Obert and 2 Kami Rita's went on to top. 11:00 pm all other summiters left C4. 11:00 pm starters on top 12:15 pm; 2 Kami Rita's on top at 12:30 pm and Obert and Benitez at 1:00 pm on 30th. All returned for night at C4 and 31st to C2.

  No serious frostbite because waited for good weather and this summit day was best day on the mountain. Slight breeze on top but warm in sun. Tejas took a 3 lb. guitar to top and strummed it briefly.

  Oxygen: 
    used by summit party members in C3 on night of 26/27 May
    climbing to C4, sleeping in C4 for 4 nights to and down
    from their highest point and all the way down to C2 except
    Holt and Mathy, who stopped using it at Col in descent
    by Sherpas sleeping in C4 for 4 nights, to top and down to C4 (but not in it).

  Members who left expedition early:
     Bright left 26 April to get married
     Murphy left 25 April - not strong enough

  Sherpa Summiters
    Lhakpa Rita, Thami, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X2
    Kami Rita (Topke), Thami, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X1
    Mingma Chhiri, Thami, Everest X4
    Kami Rita, Thami, Everest X4
    Tshering Dorje, Kharikhola, Everest X4
    Chhiri/Tshering, Thamo, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Pemba Tenzing, Phurte, 27, 1st 8000er


expid: EVER03114
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Michel Asselin
sponsor: Everest Cinquante
countries: Italy
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2003-04-07
smtdate: 2003-05-22
termdate: 2003-05-25
campsites: BC(07/04,5300m),C1(11/04,6100m),C2(15/04,6470m),C3(23/04,7150m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(22-23/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Accidents:
  Arnaud Saulnier died at BC apparently due to heart failure. 
  Gueorguievsky while snow boarding down from C3 to C2, fell into crevass about 6m
    deep hurt his ribs - probably liver. He was taken out of crevass by Sherpas. 
  Loizeau got frostbite of four fingers on left hand and thumb of right hand; 
    chances of recovery are good. He was evacuated to KTM on May 25 by helicopter
    from BC. 
  Blanc fell down at 7300m Lhotse Face, broke left arm which is plastered. 
  Two Sherpas: One got stomach infection, another fell in icefall and broke spinal
    bone; both evacuated at beginning of expedition around April 20.

  Summit bid: Berhault, Loizeau, Mugnier, Lhakpa Nuru, Nawang Karsang and Ang Pemba left C4 at the midnight of 22nd. Berhault summited at 06:30 hours, stayed 10 minutes, at C4 at 10:00 hours, then down to C2 and stayed there. Saw before him on summit maybe two Sherpas. Loizeau summited at 09:40 hours, stayed 5 minutes with two Sherpas Nawang and Ang Pemba, then descended to C4 at about 16:00 hrs and slept there. Mugnier summited at 11:40 hours, stayed 10 minutes with Lhakpa, then reached South Col at 16:00 hours and slept there. Next day all members and Sherpas to BC about 22:00 hours.

  Other climbers: 
  Asselin left eye frostbite due to storm on the night of 20th South Col. 
  Blanchi reached up to 8300m on 20th, then descended due to storm. 
  Blanc-Vial up to 8100m on the night of 20th down to C4; snowboarding from C3
    to C1 on 21st.
  Cuvelier up to yellow band on 20th, then went down due to weather.
  D'Abubarede up to 8300m on 20th, down to C4 due to storm. 
  Docros BC only. 
  Gabarrou up to 8400m without oxygen the night of 22, lost crampon, down to C4
    and gave up. 
  Gallet exhausted up to C3. 
  Garrigues up to C3. 
  Gueorguievsky (see accident report above). 
  Joncquiert-Latarjet up to 8400m on 21st night, very cold, down to C4. 
  Lemennicer up to C3, back to BC. 
  Lequertier up to Hillary Step on 21st, oxygen ran out, down to C4; skied from
    South Col to C1 on 22nd. 
  Lucazeau up to South Col, went down to lower camp on 20th due to high wind. 
  Pollini up to C3. 
  Thiney up to C2. 
  Trimeri up to C3. 
  Vallenchant pulmonary edema, evacuated by helicopter after 5/6 days later, down 
    from C3 to C1 on 21st. 
  Van Waes up to yellow band on 20th; skied down from C3 to C1 on 21st.

  Most of Expedition members returned to KTM on May 28th and will leave on 30th.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Pemba Dorje (Junje) Pemba, 17/4/2027, Kharikhola, 1st 8000er
    Lhakpa Nuru, 10/2/2035, Namche, 1st 8000er
    Nawang Karsang, 8/4/2026, Khumjung, 1st 8000er
    Pemba Nuru, 3/2/73, Pare, Thami, Lhotse 15/5/00


  Ang Chhiring (Nepal journalist summiter) to Jeevan Shrestha - 4 July 2004 

  Pemba Nuru went to top on 22 May alone after French member he had been with turned back; he arrived on top 15-20 minutes, before Ang Chhiring and took pictures of him when got there; they descended mountain together.

accidents:
  Death of assistant TV cameraman Arnaud Saulnier in BC on night of 8th or 9th due to heart failure; Blanc-Vial broken arm; Gueorguievsky fell into crevasses hurt his ribs; Loizeau got frostbite of 4 fingers; Blanc-Vial fell & broke left arm


expid: EVER03115
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Robert Huygh
sponsor: Choas Team Everest 2003
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2003-04-05
smtdate: 2003-05-22
termdate: 2003-05-24
campsites: BC(05/04,5300m),C1(10/04,6000m),C2(17/04,6400m),C3(24/04,7200m),C4(20/05,7940m),Smt(22-23/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Huygh left South Col on 20th at 21:00 hours, reached 8250m around 23:50 hours, returned to South Col at 01:30 hours on 21st. Slept till 09:00 hours, then descended to C3. Very strong wind. Van Snick without oxygen up to 8700m; long queue and had to wait for about 45 minutes (feet got cold). Little frostbite, did not like to risk further, so went down to C4. Huygh said they did not have Sherpas. The team returned to KTM on May 27 and will leave on 30th.

  According to Asian Trekking's Bikal Adhikari, June 30, 2003, Mingma Nuru Sherpa was with Van Snick and continued on to top on 22 May after Van Snick gave up since he was using oxygen. 

  Also officially Pemba Dorje and Dawa Chhiri were also on Huygh's permit to climb Everest, but actually they climbed with Japanese Lhotse expedition. 

  Four other Sherpas were assigned by sirdars of Asian Trekking's so-called International expedition (those "members" were Charles Wittmack (USA), Sean Burch (USA) and these two Belgians): Pasang Tharke and Pemba Temba to the Americans, Mingma Nuru to the Belgians although Belgians might not have realized this: the four Sherpas worked together in setting up camps and so on for these clients. Van Snick told Bikal that Mingma Nuru had gone up with him to Van Snick's high point (8700m) and Van Snick had told Mingma Nuru he could go on higher if he wished to.

  Sherpa:
    Mingma Nuru, Pangboche, 22/4/69, Ever X1, Cho Oyu X1, Lhotse X1


  Spring 2003 Everest Climb by Pemba Dorje Sherpa

  Pemba Dorje and his climbing Sherpa, Dawa Chhiri/Da Chhiri Sherpa, were actually amongst the large number of Sherpas employed by the leader of the Japanese clean-up expedition, Ken Noguchi, who had a permit for Lhotse. However, since Pemba Dorje wanted set a new speed record for climbing Everest, his trekking agency included these two Sherpas on the permit for Everest belonging to a two-man Belgian team, led by Robert Huygh, purely to authorize them to summit Everest. But they slept in Noguchi tents, ate Noguchi food, were paid by Noguchi; Pemba Dorje said he fixed 900 meters of rope between C2 and C4, and he brought down 15 empty oxygen bottles from the South Col, as part of Noguchi's clean up efforts. (The trekking agency, Asian Trekking, gave Pemba Dorje an allowance and some oxygen bottles, according to Bikal Adhikari of their staff).

  A page of details of Pemba's Everest climb as written by or for him for a press conference are attached with this memo.

  Pemba Dorje said on 25 June 2003 to E. Hawley that he went up and down the Everest-Lhotse route five or six times as "practice" for his speed climb. He said that in his speed ascent, he had no one with him from base camp to C4. He left C4 at 11:30 pm on 22 May and was on the summit at 5:45 am on the 23rd, 12 hours and 45 minutes after having left base camp.

  He was joined there by Dawa Chhiri 25 minutes later. Dawa Chhiri had carried oxygen bottles for Pema Dorje and himself to C4 and had arrived there on 21 May, the day before Pemba Dorje got there for his speed record. They set out for the summit together on the night of the 22nd, but Dawa Chhiri was unable to keep up with Pemba Dorje's fast pace and dropped behind at the South Summit.

  Pemba Dorje stayed on the summit 1 hour and 45 minutes. He was waiting for Dawa Chhiri to join him to take his picture there and for climbers from any other expedition to arrive and stand next to him in the picture. (It shows him with Patrick Berhault, member of Jean Michel Asselin's French team from the South col, who arrived at 6:30 am, the time given by both Pemba Dorje and Asselin separately. Berhault wrote his name in Pemba Dorje's notes). Pemba Dorje put pictures of King Gyanendra and Queen Komal on the summit.

  Pemba Dorje started using artificial oxygen when he left C4 for the summit. He used it on his climb to the top, took off his mask for the 1 hour, 45 minutes he was on the summit, resumed using it in his descent from the top till he reached C2. Dawa Chhiri used it sleeping at C4, climbing to the summit and down to the C2, where he stopped to sleep the night of the 23rd (he did not use it sleeping there).

  Pemba Dorje and Dawa Chhiri left the summit together at 7:00 am on the 23rd. Pemba Dorje descended all the way to base camp that day. He arrived at base camp at 2:00 pm, having been delayed by having twisted his ankle while coming down through the Icefall at only 200 meters above camp. His boot had gotten stuck in a ladder; he sat down, massaged his ankle, and radioed on his walkie-talkie for help from base camp. Six or seven Sherpas answered his appeal for help (one was Pasang Kitar from Miura's team, one was Pasang Tenzi from the Jagged Globe US, UK etc., team, another was Tashi with the Nepalese army); after 40 minutes he resumed his descent to base camp.

  He had planned to accomplish his entire climb in exactly 20 hours, but he had stopped for two hours at C4 in his descent to pack up some of Noguchi's gear, had rested at C2 for 20 minutes and again at C1 for ten minutes, and spent an extra 40 minutes in the Icefall. He calculates it had actually had taken him a total of 20 hours, 55 minutes to do the entire round-trip from base camp to summit to base camp.

  He said his new ambition now is to make an historic double traverse of Everest in 2004, climbing up via the SE Ridge to the summit, down via the North Face-North Col route to ABC, back up again via the same route to the summit and down the SE Ridge-South Col route to base camp. But he has no sponsor yet for this project.


  Conference in KTM 29 May 2003

  1.  We left for Everest base camp on 2059/12/16 BC.
  2.  We reached in BC on 2059/12/22 BS (5/4/03).
  3.  On 2059/12/29 (12/4/03) Pemba Dorje and Dawa Chhiri went to Camp 1
      and 2 and returned to the base camp at the same day.
  4.  After 6 days Pemba along with 15 Sherpas went to the Camp 1 and 
      Camp 2. And all Sherpas spent (or night in Camp 2) and after descended
      to the base camp and took rest for 7 days. Again we went to Camp 1 
      along with 12 kgs of load and returned to the base camp on that day.
  5.  On 22nd, April 03, Pemba along with three Sherpas went from the Camp
      2 to set the rope to Camp 4, then returned to the base camp on 24th
      April 03, and then I (Pemba) took a rest until May 22 in the base camp.

  About Personal Summit - Speed Climb

  1. Started from the BC on May 22, 2003 at 5:00 pm
  2. He reached in the Camp 1 at 6:00 pm
  3. Then Camp 2 6:45 pm and rested 25 minutes; rested at Camp 3 at 9:10 pm
  4. Camp 4 at 11:10 pm and rested there for 20 minutes. From Camp 4, he took 
     6:15 hours to reach on the top.

  Note: Pemba Dorje met Dawa Chhiri (his climbing Sherpa) at 11:10 pm at South Col. 
   "After I met Dawa Chhiri, I used the oxygen from South Col."


  Email from Rudy Van Snick:

  I did indeed reach 8700m without using supplementary oxygen. I turned back because of the presence of too much people on the ridge and the very bad weather conditions (much wind, too cold) and the start of frostbite symptoms on my feet. I finally turned back alone at about 6:30 am and arrived at Camp 4 at 9:00 am on 22 May 2003 (I had left Camp 4 for the summit attempt on 21 May at 9 pm). I spend the night in Camp 4 and left next morning (23 May) at 7 am alone for BC.


expid: EVER03117
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Tarcisio Bello
sponsor: Everest Zone
approach: Lhasa->Shigatse->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2003-04-18
smtdate: 2003-05-26
smttime: 1145
termdate: 2003-05-29
campsites: BC(18/04),ABC(24/04,6300m),C1(28/04,7000m),C2(24/05,7800m),C3(25/05,8300m),Smt(26/05)
accidents: Muktu Sherpa pulmonary edema; Castagna cerebral edema at North Col; Dalla Torre serious eye problem
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at 7000m North Col
  C3 at 8300m used Spanish tent since our last tent fixed at 7500m.

  26 May 2:00 am NST Bello and Vielmo left C3 for top. Bello reached 8800m at 10:00 am (before Vielmo) and turned down because oxygen system malfunctioned while Vielmo went on top at 11:45 am alone. Bello to C3 12:00, waiting for Vielmo to return which he did at 5:00 pm. From C3 both again down: Vielmo down to 7500m in US tent and Bello to 7800m camp. 27th both to ABC at 1:30 pm. 

  Vielmo and Bello used oxygen from 8000m to their highest points and down to 8300m; Vielmo continued to use it to 7500m.


expid: EVER03118
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Jesus Elena Vera
sponsor: Tarragona al Sostre del Mon Everest 2003
bcdate: 2003-04-01
smtdate: 2003-05-26
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2003-05-29
termnote: Success only by Sherpas
campsites: BC(01/04,5300m),C1(11/04,5900m),C2(11/04,6400m),C3(24/04,7200m),C4(19/05,7900m),Smt(26/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 April 11 at 5900m occupied by Elena Vera, Salvado Perello and Sole Rouirosa. C2 April at 6400m occupied by Callado Pallares and Rafols Pujol. C3 April 24 at 7200m by Callado Pallares. C4 May 19 at 7900m occupied by Callado Pallares, Castellui Gonzalez, Flaque, Rafols Pujol, Salvado Perello and Sole Rouirosa together with Thukten Dorjee, Pemba Gyalzen and Ang Pasang.

  First attempt: May 19, Callado Pallares and Rafols Pujol left C4 without oxygen, with 3 Sherpas at 21:30 hours and other members Castellui Gonzalez, Flaque, Salvado Perello and Sole Rouirosa at 22:00 hours. At about 8200m storm started, so all descended to C4.

  Second: May 25 at 21:30 hours Castellui Gonzalez and Sole Rouirosa with oxygen and Thukten Dorje, Mingma Dorje and Rita left C4. Two members reached below 8000m, returned to C4 at 22:30 hours.

  Sherpas continued to summit at 10:00 hours of 26th. All three Sherpas returned to C4 at 15:00 hours. Same night at 23:30 Callado Pallares and Rafols Pujol left C4 without oxygen and Sherpas. Rafols Pujol returned to C4 after one hour. Callado Pallares reached up to 8600m, but due to strong wind, returned to C4 at 08:30 of 27th.

  Expedition returned to KTM on June 01 and to leave on 06.

  Sherpas summiters:
    Thukten Dorje Sherpa, (2025/3/17), Namche, Everest X2
    Rita Dorje Sherpa, 25 years old, Phortse
    Mingma Dorje Sherpa (36), Khumjung

  Other Sherpas
    Ang Pasang Sherpa (37), Khumjung, Solukhumbu
    Pemba Gyalzen Sherpa (28), Khumjung, Solukhumbu


expid: EVER03119
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Peter Guggemos
sponsor: Independent climber
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2003-04-20
smtdate: 2003-05-09
termdate: 2003-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 7953m due to tiredness and weather (windy and cold)
campsites: BC(20/04,5300m),C1(23/04,6000m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(25/04,6700m),C4(09/05,7983m),xxx(09/05,7953m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  C4 at 7953m did not sleep went down to C3.

  On May 13 tried to go up to South Col from C3 but returned from Yellow Band due to exhaustion. On May 21 towards South Col, but could not due to strong wind and excessive cold. Went down to C2. 

  Returned to KTM on 29 and leaving on 31st. Staying with Nima Nuru.

  Thinking for Dhaulagiri, but not sure.


expid: EVER03120
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Renzo Benedetti
sponsor: Speizione Trentina dul Tetto del Mondo
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2003-04-21
smtdate: 2003-05-26
termdate: 2003-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 8815m due to bad weather and exhaution
campsites: BC(21/04,5300m),C1(23/04,6100m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(08/05,7100m),C4(13/05,7900m),xxx(26/05,8815m)
accidents: Bit of snowblindness of Valentini for sometime
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at 6100m (deposit only - which was blown away by storm)

  May 25: Benedetti and Valentini both started from C2 on May 25 at 06:00 hours. Benedetti arrived at C4 at 13:00 hours. Valentini arrived at 16:00 hours. Both got rest and food, then continued at 21:00 hours. Benedetti reached at 8815m at 04:45 hours. On May 26 he had to return to C4 at 11:00 hours due to the problem in oxygen mask which did not release oxygen. Valentini reached to 8100m at 11:00 hours without oxygen. He felt very cold and tired, decided to give up. Nima Sherpa who was climbing with Valentini continued with the permission of Valentini. Nima told him that he had summited. Valentini while waiting for Nima, as he was suffering from bit of snowblind, asked one of the army members descending from summit to put his ice axe into his rucksack instead the climber took the axe with him.

  Sherpas:
    Nima Sherpa, Thami
    Ang Kazi Sherpa

  The expedition returned to KTM on May 31 and will leave on June 03.

  Nima did not go to the summit, according to trekking agent, Nima Nuru of Cho Oyu Trekking - this was a misunderstanding


expid: EVER03121
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Eckhard Schmitt
sponsor: Swiss-German Mount Everest Jubilee Everest Expedition 2003
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 2003-04-15
smtdate: 2003-05-26
smttime: 1245
termdate: 2003-05-29
campsites: BC(15/04),C1(19/04,6000m),C2(21/04,6450m),C3(03/05,7200m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(26/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 in Western Cwm
  C3 on Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Night of 3 May "terrible night" (Mozak) because snowstorm almost destroyed tent and C1 tents destroyed; down to BC on 4 May. In C4 on 20/21 May were Schmitt, Brand, Everts and Nawang Thile; decided on 21st morning with storm brewing at 3:00 am and no summit attempt possible, all of team down to C2, then up on 24th to C3; all except Eberhoefer and any Sherpas. On 25th to C2 all in C2 except Schmitt, who turned back at 7400m because hadn't recovered from hard time he had had at C4 on 21 May and Sherpa. 26th summit party Brand, Evert and Nawang Thile left C4 25th at 9:00; Zwahlen, Rossel, Mrosek, Pemba and Zangbu Sherpa (Pemba=Pemba Chhhoti, Nawang Thile's son) left at 1:15 am of 26th. Those who had left at 9:00 pm: Everts at South Summit 9:00 am of 26th and waited there little more than an hour for Brand and Nawang Thile, who joined him there; Brand developed severe eye problem from strong wind and needed help to return to C3 which they reached at 6:00 pm. Others then summited, went all way to top (Mrosek) had to wait at balcony for others because members had oxygen mask problem). All to summit at 12:45 pm, were alone on top briefly. Last 200m above Hillary Step, wind forced Mrosek had to crowd to top but on top not so bad - 40 minutes from South Summit to top; slept in C2.

  Oxygen: All used South Col to summit to Col.
    Everts  in C4
    Brand   in C4
    Mrosek  in C4
    Zwahlin in C4
    Rossel  in C4
    Sherpas in C4

  Schmitt from C3 to C4 but not at C4; Brand at C4 and Nawang Thile at C4.

accidents:
  Eberhoefer developed cerebral edema; Brand severe eye problem from strong wind and needed help to return to C3


expid: EVER03122
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Manuel Lugli
sponsor: Italy Everest Speed Expedition 2003
countries: USA
bcdate: 2003-04-22
smtdate: 2003-05-23
smttime: 0945
termdate: 2003-05-27
campsites: BC(22/04,5390m),C1(24/04,6150m),C2(26/04,6500m),C3(02/05,7300m),C4(22/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
accidents: Pozzi had lung problem; Lugli cracked a rib coughing
achievment: 1st Italian woman to top
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Meraldi for expedition climb started from BC 22 May 4:00 pm and to C4 in 9 hours 50 minutes with 2 hours in C3 because feet cold (Lhotse too light); stopped in C4 because feet extremely cold and cold wind; at C4 1:50 am of 23 May and slept in C4 nights of 23 and 24 May. Di Centa and Dorje left C4 22 May 11:40 pm and on top 9:45 am of 23 May. Tried to pass Gary Guller, who was now going slowly, just below South Summit and difficult to pass but managed on soft snow. Di Centa slept in C4, Dorje on 22 May. Sala climbed alone to C4 behind Di Centa and Dorje on 22 May; tried to climb 23 May and up only 1 hour and turned back cold and tired at 8100m. Meraldi wants to come again to speed climb mountain with better boots and better/stronger team, better walkie-talkie and better organization.

  Lugli cracked a rib coughing but went to C2 anyway to assist Meraldi's record speed climb, then to BC to stay.

  Odasso went only to C1 because his girl friend had forbidden him to go above 7000m.

  Pozzi had breathing problem in BC but climbed to C3 and her condition became acute but she survived.

  Oxygen: 
    Di Centa - sleeping in C3 and continuously to top and down to C3 but not sleeping in C3.
    Dorje - climbing from C4 to top to C4 but not in C4.
    Meraldi used no oxygen at any time.

  Di Centa took flag of International Olympia Committee to summit & has photo of her with flag and framed pictures.


expid: EVER03124
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Gary Guller
sponsor: Team Everest 2003
countries: Australia, Canada
bcdate: 2003-04-08
smtdate: 2003-05-23
smttime: 1215
termdate: 2003-05-25
campsites: BC(08/04),C1(17/04,6100m),C2(20/04,6400m),C3(08/05,7300m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 at West Cwm
  C3 at Lhotse face
  C4 at South Col.

  Guller, Scott and 4 Sherpas left C4 for top 8:00 pm 22 May. Scott at midnight turned back at 8200m without oxygen because was too cold to continue. Guller and Sherpas summited at 12:15 pm together without Scott. No one else was on top at this time; thus were going down at that time. "Fullfillmment of a dream" and especially nice that top was not crowded and he was with people that he knew. Slept in C4 (arrived at Col 20 May and slept there 4 nights) and got snowblind for few minutes till medicine cleared his sight. Had taken off googles at top of Hillary Step to keep balance since no left arm to help. Returned to C4 at 7:30 pm on 23rd. 25th to C2, having spent extra night at Col for complete recovery from blindness. As difficult or more difficult and tiring for me "coming down; pushed my right arm and right side hard."

  Oxygen: 
    Guller slept over in C3 and up from C3 to top to C4 
    Sherpas in C4 to top and in C4
    Scott also in C4 

  Ability to climb dependent on balance and confidence - never used his wall: ice axe; just followed fixed lines (but no jummaring).

  Watkin's edema - had gone a little way into Icefall - left expedition 1 May.

  Bousselaire developed pulmonary edema and left expedition 10 May.

  Karma Gyalzen got pulmonary edema, collapsed and died quickly while descending just before top of Icefall.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Nima Dawa, Gudel village, Everest X1, Dhaulagiri I 
    Pemba Tenzi, Sotang VDC, Cho Oyu X3
    Da Nima, 31, Bhakanje, 1st 8000er
    Namgyal, 32, Lelep-8 VDC, Taplejung, 1st 8000er

accidents:
  1 Sherpa fell and broke ankle (Pemba Tenzi); Watkins cerebral edema (had gone a little way into icefall); Bousselaire developed pulmonary edema; Guller brief snowblindness; 1 Sherpa died of AMS


expid: EVER03125
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Paul Giorgio
sponsor: Everest Treks Expedition
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2003-04-09
smtdate: 2003-05-26
termdate: 2003-05-28
campsites: BC(09/04,5334m),C1(18/04,6096m),C2(22/04,6400m),C3(08/05,7315m),C4(09/05,7925m),Smt(26/05)
achievment: 3rd time summit; three brothers; speed record
agency: Mountain Madness
routememo:
  Giorgio left South Col at 20:30 hours on May 25th, summited on 26th at 05:57 hours, stayed about 5 minutes. 10:00 hours to South Col to sleep. Next day to BC. Giorgio met Gelu coming down from summit at South Summit. Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa left BC on 25th at 17:00 hours, summited at 04:45 hours on 26th. Other Sherpas summited: Dawa Nuru/Danuru, Mingma Tshering and Lama Jangbu Sherpa.

  Three Sherpa brothers: 1) Lama Jangbu, 2) Lhakpa Gelu, 3) Danuru

  Members: Peterson suffered from cerebral edema at Lobuche. It was mild and doctor suggested him to go home. He made up through icefall (6000m) twice. Left BC April 29. Probably left country after 2 or 3 days of his arrival to KTM.

  Wolfgruber reached C1 first time on April 18, got respiratory infection, left BC on 20th.

  Wolfgruber said, it was disgusting to see the amount of garbage left by one of the major commercial expedition organizers at high camps. It is indeed  disgraceful to mountain. They were the most disorganized camp compare several other camps put up by other expeditions.

  Giorgio returned to KTM on May 29 and leaves on June 2.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Mingma Tshering Sherpa, 2/8/70, 9th time Everest summit; Cho Oyu X2, K2 X1
    Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa, 10/6/65, Cho Oyu X2, 10th time
    Dawa Nurbu/Danuru Sherpa, Kharikhola, 26 years old, 4th time
    Lama Jangbu Sherpa, 10/6/65, Kharikhola, 8th time

  Lhakpa Gelu on 27 June 2003 said an unsuccessful summit attempt was made by Giorgio and 5 Sherpas (not including Lhakpa Gelu) who had arrived at South Col on 19 May and on 20th May tried to go to top. Lama Jangbu and other Sherpas from other teams reached 850 m, Giorgio to only 8300m, and all turned back because of strong wind and fresh snow falling. They slept in C4 that night and next day to C2. 24 May Giorgio went up to C3, 25 May he and Sherpa summiters went to C4.

  Regarding Speed Climb. see attached by E. Hawley - Tourism ministry official said 11/7/03 that liaison officer at BC confirmed time when Lhakpa Gelu started up from BC for speed climb: LO wrote down the time then.


  Lhakpa Gelu's Speed climb of Everest, Spring 2003 - E. Hawley

  Lhakpa Gelu was a Sherpa with an American Expedition led by Paul Giorgio. His account (with some interpreting by his trekking agent, Rishi Nirula) of his climb to E. Hawley on 27 June, 2003 is as follows.

  On 25 May at 5:00 pm, Lhakpa Gelu left base camp alone and climbed alone all the way to the summit. He arrived at Camp II at 7:35 pm, had a drink and changed his clothes, then at 8:05 pm resumed his ascent. He arrived at Camp IV on the South Col at 0:30 am on the 26th and left five minutes later to go to the base summit. When he met many other climbers also going for the top, they allowed him to go ahead of them, and he was therefore not delayed as he went up the ropes. He reached the top at 3:56 am.

  When he had reached just 10-15 meters below the top, he met Apa Sherpa (from the American expedition led by Bob Hoffman) as Apa was descending. He asked Apa to come back up to the summit with him because he needed help to dig a hole in the snow, erect an iron flag pole (which he had carried in three sections), and to attach a brass flag of Nepal on top of it (the pole and flag weighed 5 kg). Apa agreed; they dug the hole with a snowbar they found on top, and Lhakpa Gelu used his hands. It was a very difficult to do this because of the strong wind. Apa also took a photo of Lhakpa Gelu standing beside the flag pole. (E. Hawley saw the photo; it is clearly that of Lhakpa Gelu). (Apa confirmed to E. Hawley that he had gone back up a short distance to the top with Lhakpa Gelu and took a photo of him after he himself had been on the summit at 3:41 am. Apa declined to estimate at what time he was on the summit with Lhakpa Gelu).

  Lhakpa Gelu says he left the summit at 4:20 am. After that, he did not check his watch as he descended. He stopped at the Col for 10-15 minutes and at Camp II 40 minutes. He arrived at base camp at 11:30 the same morning. He had suffered no frostbite or serious illness throughout the expedition and he had no accident.

  He started to use artificial oxygen when he left the Col for the summit. He had left the oxygen at Camp IV on an earlier visit. He used it all the way to the top, took off his mask to dig the hole and for the photo Apa took of him, then used it all the way down to Camp IV; after that, he only carried it, partly empty, plus an empty bottle, down to base camp. He left base camp at 11:00 pm on the 28th, arrived at Lukla airfield at 9:00 the morning, and caught a plane to KTM at 10:00 am.

  After Pemba Dorje, who maintained that his own ascent was still the fastest, insisted to the tourism ministry that Lhakpa Gelu was not telling the truth about the time he had reached the top and that Nepalese army climbers had found him going up the Hillary Step at 4:20 am, Lhakpa Gelu and his trekking agent, Rishi Nirula, submitted his supporting documents to the Ministry on 20th June.


  Unofficial translation

  His Majesty's Government Ministry of culture, tourism and civil aviation

  On May 26, 2003 at 3:56 am. Mr. Lhakpa Gyalu Sherpa, resident of Juving I. Solukhumbu district has claimed to have climbed Mount Everest in 10 hours 56 minutes and 46 seconds and established the world record. But Mr. Pemba Dorji Sherpa, resident of Dolakha Gaurishankar-1 requested the Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation to undertake a serious investigation on the truth of this climb on Jestha 29, 2060. The Ministry therefore took a detail investigation on this matter and has concluded the following findings.

  1. Mr Appa Sherpa, the first person to reach on the top of Everest on May 26th at 3:41 am and the 13th times Everest summiters has submitted the Ministry with the following information on Lhakpa Gyalu's record climb. At 3:41 am, reaching on the summit of Everest, I have contacted the concerned persons at the BC and gave the information of my ascent on the top. Then I was descending from the summit and met Lhakpa Gyalu Sherpa about 10 m below the summit. Lhakpa Gyalu Sherpa requested Appa Sherpa to accompany him to the summit and he agreed to go with him to the summit. Lhakpa Gyalu Sherpa contacted the BC staff from his Walkie Talkie set and Appa Sherpa also used the set to talk with the BC staff. Appa Sherpa also assisted Lhakpa Gyalu to erect the metal flag which he had carried from the BC, Appa also took pictures of Lhakpa Gyalu and Lhakpa Gyalu also took pictures of Appa on the top.

  2. On the same day but after Lhakpa Gyalu reached the summit between 4:15 to 5:05 am, 17 persons from the same team of Joint Nepal and Indian Army Expedition leader has reported the following information to the Ministry on Ashar 25, 2060.

  3. Mr Eckhard Schmitt, the leader of Jubilees Mount Everest Expedition in which Lhakpa Gyalu was involved has reported the Ministry and confirmed that Lhakpa Gyalu Sherpa reached the summit in 3.56.46 hours

  4. The Liaison Officer based at Everest on the same day has the following information both by email and orally to the Ministry:

  Lhakpa Gyalu Sherpa left in the afternoon of May 25 at 5 pm from BC. In the morning of 26 May at 3.56.46 am, I received the report from Lhakpa Gyalu Sherpa while I was in my tent that he has reached the summit. The Liaison Officer has acted as the timekeeper and even BBC had broad shown the scene of this the previous day.

  Based on the above facts, photos, written information from other climbers both local and foreigners. His Majesty's Government of Nepal at the cabinet level decision on 29/07/03 has concluded that Lhakpa Gyalu Sherpa has climbed Mount Everest in 10 hours, 56 minutes and 46 seconds with the world record.

accidents:
  Peterson cerebral edema; Wolfgruber respiratory infection; Chhongba Nuru got his knee hurt (he fell in a small crevasse in South Col on 21st and next day sent to BC)


expid: EVER03126
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Bernard De Launoit
sponsor: Everest 2003
countries: France, Switzerland
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2003-04-08
smtdate: 2003-05-22
smttime: 0655
termdate: 2003-05-25
campsites: BC(08/04,5310m),C1(15/04,6100m),C2(26/04,6450m),C3(19/05,7150m),C4(20/05,7980m),Smt(22/05)
achievment: 1st ascent of the season
agency: Pabil Treks
routememo:
  May 20: Figliolini, Pallandre, Zuberer, and four Sherpas left South Col at 22:00 hours; below balcony 8350m there were about 250 people. Storm started, so back to South Col at 01:30 of 21st. Most of the expeditions went further down to lower camps. 

  Three Sherpas (Irish, Belgium and Nepal Army, all of them climbing instructors) agreed between themselves to open up the way.

  May 21: Five Sherpas led the way up. From Balcony Belgium expedition Sherpa Ang Norbu led, behind him was Pemba Rinzi of Army and Palladre till South Summit. Ang Norbu having pain in leg asked Pemba (army) to help lead. From onward the order in line was Pemba, Ang Norbu, Pallandre, Figliolini, Zuberer. All summited at 06:55 hours of 22nd. Spent about 15/20 minutes; there were prayer flags, oxygen bottle (orange colour). Met two Koreans from north side, maybe one Tibetan. While descending the team met army team at Hillary Step. Members came down to C2 where they arrived at 16:30 hours. Ang Norbu to BC at 16:30 hours, next day to Namche. 

  The Ministry however, did not broadcast the ascent for few days. Expedition liaison officer was not at BC. He was in KTM due to sickness. The expedition ascent news was sent at same time to Pabil Trekking and Ministry. The Ministry announced the Army expedition was the first expedition to ascend on 22nd.

  Summiters returned to KTM on 27 and rest on 23rd; leave all together on 30th.

  Leader said that the expedition to make 3 documentaries, each of 52 minutes, that will be aired over TV channels on Oct 03.

  Note: Michel got fracture leg on 28 April while returning from C3->C2, treated at BC and remained at BC.

  De Launoit and Michel returned to KTM on 26th.

  Summit Sherpas:
    Ang Norbu, 7/7/67, home village, Namche but now lives in Kathmandu
    Thile Nurbu, 28, Chaplung, Chaurikharka VDC, Khumbu, 1st 8000er
    Pasang Nuru (name as monk - Nawang Lobsang), 34, Thamo, 1st 8000er
    Mingma Ongel, 31, Sedua, Makalu VDC, 1st 8000er

accidents:
  Delachat fell down at the beginning of icefall on Apr 15th in the morning (6 am), right shoulder badly injured, evacuated on same day at 9 am by helicopter (19 or 20th left for France)


expid: EVER03127
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Christopher Allen
sponsor: Independent climber on Everest
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2003-04-05
smtdate: 2003-05-20
termdate: 2003-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to illness (stomach bug)
campsites: BC(05/04,5300m),C1(10/04,6000m),C2(16/04,6400m),C3(01/05,7200m),xxx(20/05,7600m)
accidents: Stomach bug (vomiting blood)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  On May 20 Allen left C3 at 10:00 hours at 7600m, got sick and retreated to C3 where he reached at 15:00 hours. Next morning wanted to try again to go up, but too sick to do that. Descended to C2 on 21st with the help of Pemba Temba. 22nd to BC, arrived KTM on 25th. Leaves Nepal on 28th.

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Temba Sherpa (37), Khumjung VDC No. 8, Solukhumbu


expid: EVER03128
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Africa
leaders: Alex Harris
sponsor: Discovery 2003 Everest Expedition
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2003-03-28
smtdate: 2003-05-30
smttime: 1115
termdate: 2003-05-31
campsites: BC(28/03,5300m),C1(10/04,6100m),C2(14/04,6500m),C3(22/04,7300m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(30/05)
achievment: Probably 1st white South African?
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at usual BC site
  C4 at South Col.

  Summit Day, May 30: Wisedale left South Col at 23:00 hours of May 29. Summit at 11:15 hours of 30th, stayed one hour and fifteen minutes. (While on summit Wisedale proposed marriage to girl friend Joy Simmonds through Sat phone, staying at Hyatt Regency in KTM; Simmonds replied saying that she would be honoured). Wisedale descended to South Col where he reached at 16:00 hours. Next day to Lobuche. He arrived KTM on June 1. Wisedale and his girl friend will leave Nepal on the 7th.

  On summit before Wisedale was David Hahn and his group, and after him was the team of Alpine Ascents (Tejas, Benetz together with most of their clients and Lhakpa Rita Sherpa). Weather was very nice and clear - no wind till 11:00 hours, after that wind started about 10-15 nautical miles. Weather was bad on 29th (from Wisedale).

  The first attempt of the expedition was on 20th. The six climbing members; Deysel, Disney, Harris, Ker, Walshaw and Wisedale with Ang Nima Sherpa, Karchin Dawa (Harris was not sure about other Sherpas) left south Col at 21:00 hours. But due to storm all members and other climbers had to retreat. Harris, Walshaw and Wisedale reached on that night up to 8500m (below the balcony and other members to 8200m). They spent night in South Col. Next day to C2 and BC on 22. All members left BC on 25th except Wisedale. Dr. Disney, S. Disney, Harris and Seeff trekked to Lukla. Al Dous, Deysel, Glyn, Ker and Walshaw flew out on helicopter to KTM. Most of the members left Nepal on May 28.

  Sherpas:
    Naga Dorjee Sherpa (35), Khumjung VDC-2, Solukhumbu
    Karchen Dawa Sherpa (38), Khumjung VDC-3, Solukhumbu
    Dorje Tamang (42), Kapan VDC-1, Kathmandu
    Ang Mingma Sherpa (33), Yilajung Village, VDC-9, Namche
    Phurba Sherpa (43), Theso, Namche VDC 4, Solukhumbu
    Nuru Wangchu Sherpa (24), Khumjung VDC-7, Solukhumbu
    Mingma Nuru Sherpa (26), Khumjung VDC-1, Solukhumbu
    Phurba Sona Sherpa (32), Khumjung VDC-8, Solukhumbu
    Dorjee Sherpa (42) Lumsa, Rapting VDC-7, Solukhumbu


  30 May 2003 - Sibusiso Vilane

  Sibusiso Vilane (of Jagged Globe Ev South led by Robert Anderson), and only black to summit Everest, said Deysel could not get to top because her expedition had strength for only one attempt and no oxygen for second bid.


expid: EVER03129
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Sean Burch
sponsor: Dream Everest Expedition (on Belgian Huygh permit)
approach: Lukla->BC
bcdate: 2003-04-03
smtdate: 2003-05-22
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2003-05-25
campsites: BC(03/04,5365m),C1(08/04,6070m),C2(14/04,6460m),C3(27/04,7180m),C4(20/05,7920m),Smt(22/05)
accidents: Burch frostbite on both feet
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at top of Icefall
  C2 at West Cwm
  C3 at Lhotse Face
  C4 at South Col.

  Burch skipped rope at South Col. He and Pemba Temba Sherpa left C4 together at 9:00 pm 21 May and reached top 9:30 am on 22nd, spent 5 minutes on top. Burch returned to C4 at 7:00 pm while Sherpa went down ahead of him so Burch was alone in his descent to C4. Burch was very slow and toes got frostbitten because he was not using oxygen from top to C4. Had to wait at Hillary Step.

  Oxygen used: Burch in climb from C4 to top only. Sherpa used from C4 to top to C4.

  Summit Sherpa: 
    Pasang Temba, 20/8/65 (4/5/2022), Thami


expid: EVER03130
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: John Baker
sponsor: Peak Promotion 2003 Everest Expedition
approach: Standard via Island Peak
bcdate: 2003-04-07
smtdate: 2003-05-22
smttime: 1015
termdate: 2003-05-25
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak (on April 1 with Kami)
campsites: BC(07/04,5300m),C1(09/04,6000m),C2(17/04,6600m),C3(27/04,7200m),C4(21/05,7900m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  May 21 Baker and three Sherpas [left camp] about 07:00 hours, reached South Col around 17:00 hours exhausted; ate/rested for an hour. About 22:30 hours started for summit where all four reached at 10:15 hours of 22nd. Descended to South Col where all spent night. Next day to C2. Before them were Army expedition - Ang Chhiring and after Baker team there were about 8 people. Baker saw people coming up from north side. There were about 20 people on summit. The expedition returned to KTM on May 28. Departure date not fixed.

  Note: Baker made deep dive of 250m before he came to Nepal. He wondered if it mattered "Deepest and highest" sort of record?

  He is very much enthusiastic to help Sherpa community. He is highly impressed by the Sherpa community. Wants to do something substantial especially for Kami. He is thinking to go north side probably next year.

  Nima Tashi Sherpa, 1960, Pangboche, Khumjung VDC-7, Solukhumbu
  Everest South: 1988,90,93,97,98,99,02
  Ama Dablam: Six times.

  Kami Sherpa, 31-03-1978? 9/12/79?
  Jantarkhani VDC-9, Okhaldhunga, Everest 2002 (National Geographic)

  Da Chhempa Sherpa, 2024-11-18
  Gudel VDC-5, Solu, Baruntse 2000 (UK) Aut


expid: EVER03131
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Henry Todd
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Everest Expedition 2003
countries: USA
bcdate: 2003-04-06
smtdate: 2003-05-22
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2003-05-25
campsites: BC(06/04),C1(11/04,6100m),C2(16/04,6400m),C3(22/04,7200m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(22/05)
accidents: Mackay collapsed when oxygen ran out at balcony
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  C3 at 7200m Lhotse Face
  C4 at 7900m South Col.

  20 May summit party from C4; Todd, Casserley, Vann, Mackay and Jack: Todd stopped after 2 hours not strong enough; Mackay stopped at balcony with oxygen problem, Jack stopped below Hillary Step at 11:00 am because strong, cold wind and long queue for Step and Lhakpa Chhiri stopped and returned with Mackay and Pasang Tshering stopped and down with Jack; Lhakpa also with Mackay. All slept in C4.

  Oxygen use by summit party members from C3 and in C4 to high point; to C4 by some members but not enough oxygen for all because job extreme conjestions on route so supplies ran out at the balcony after having been using it for 18-20 hours. Mackay's supply ran out at balcony and he collapsed, was revived by spare oxygen sent up in case of emergency and was helped down by 3 Sherpas. Summit party Sherpas used oxygen climbing above C4 to top to, but not in C4.

  Summit Sherpas:
    Pasang Nuru, aka Ang Nuru, Pangboche, 21 years, Cho Oyu Aut 2002, 
      brother of Pasang Tshering (Cho Oyu X2, Everest X3)
    Pasang Dawa, aka Pa Dawa, Pangboche, Everest X3, Lhotse X1, Cho Oyu X1
    Gurmi Dorje, aka Gurmin Dorje, Pangboche, Everest X1 (16/05/02)

  Other Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Chhiri, Pangboche
    Lhakpa, Pangboche, (Ever N X1 in 2002; Annapurna I Indian Army summiter 2002)
    Pasang Tshering, Pangboche, (Cho Oyu X2, Everest X3)


expid: EVER03132
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Glenn Edwards
sponsor: Atlas Cold Storage Fire Fighter Everest Expedition 2003
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2003-04-09
smtdate: 2003-05-20
termdate: 2003-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to fatigue
campsites: BC(09/04,5400m),C1(13/04,6200m),C2(19/04,6500m),C3(26/04,7200m),xxx(20/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  xxx at 7500m at Yellow Band.

  On May 20 approached towards South Col from C3 but had to descend to C2 from yellow band due to fatigue. Foster went up to 6800m on April 25, but could not continue due to sinus problem that made his ear painful perhaps due to altitude. Foster remained at C2 most of time. Ken Edwards remained at BC; he left BC on 20 April and Nepal on 26th. The expedition returned to KTM on May 27 and will leave on 29th.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Tsering (49), Khunde
    Lhakpa Tamang (27 about), Khumjung
    Pemba Nuru (47), Khumjung


expid: EVER03133
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Ireland
leaders: Pat Falvey
sponsor: British Everest Expedition 2003
countries: UK
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2003-03-29
smtdate: 2003-05-22
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2003-05-27
campsites: BC(29/03,5364m),C1(04/04,6000m),C2(18/04,6400m),C3(02/05,7300m),C4(19/05,7900m),Smt(22/05)
achievment: 1st Irish ascent from south side
agency: High Country Trekking
routememo:
  May 21 Falvey, McDonnell, Murphy, Shields and Sherpas left C4 at 22:30 hours. Summit by Pemba Gelu at 10:00 hours followed by Murphy, stayed about 10-15 minutes. Pemba Rinzi and McDonnell summited between 10:00-10:30 hours, spent about 5-10 minutes on top. All four returned to C4 between 15:00-16:00 hours. Next day to C2 and following day to BC. On summit day Miss Shields got just above Balcony, then got minor frostbite nips (fingers) back to C4. Falvey reached to Hillary step, then oxygen did not work, so back to C4.

  Note: O'Leary got sick stomach on May 19; back to C2 and BC. Expedition returned to KTM on 27 and leaving Nepal on June 3.

  Sherpas copied from website:
  1) Pemba Rinzi Sherpa (14/8/2030) 29/11/73, Kharikhola, Solu 
       Everest summit
  2) Nima Sherpa (12-08-73) Jubing, Solu
       Cho Oyu, Everest south in 2001 and 2002
  3) Nang Chhemi Sherpa (12-09-80) Jubing, Solu
       Everest - 8484m; Cho Oyu - 8200m
  4) Mingma Tshering Sherpa (12-12-80) Kharikhola, Jubing, Solu
  5) Dorje Sherpa (11-10-71) Brother of 
       Cho Oyu 8200m; Everest summit
  6) Pemba Gyalze/Gyalzen Pangkoma, Solu
       Everest South - 16 May 2000, 23 May 2001
       Cho Oyu - 98, 99, 2000
       Baruntse - 2001 and 2002


  From Irish Examiner - 6 May 2003

  Irish Climber Recovering after Everest Setback, by Michael Brennan

  A climber on the Irish Mount Everest expedition is recovering in hospital after a near-death experience.

  George Shorten, a 41-year-old anaesthetist with Cork University Hospital spent seven hours crossing the Khumbu glacier with the team, suffering from double vision and fainting spells.

  The deep crevasses and moving ice in the Kumbu glacier make it the most dangerous part of Mount Everest and it has already claimed the lives of nine climbers. 

  Team leader Pat Falvey said Mr Shorten, an experienced climber who has climbed four of the highest mountains in the world, had shown great courage. “On this occasion, George pushed himself to the limit so that he would put no one else in danger to get out of the dangerous situation he was in. We’re playing around in an area called death zone and it’s not called death zone for no reason,” he said via satellite phone on the Pat Kenny show yesterday.

  The Irish Everest Expedition is aiming for the first successful ascent of Everest by a woman and to complete the first Irish ascent on the southern route from Nepal.

  Mr Shorten had found it difficult to sleep after a 12-hour ascent to the team Camp 3, and his energy levels were severely depleted. After his ordeal on the descent, he collapsed on the floor of the Himalayan Rescue Clinic at Base Camp and was diagnosed with high altitude cerebral oedema. This mountain sickness arrives when the body can no longer cope with the high altitude and can be fatal, but Mr Shorten was recovering well yesterday and, on the expedition web site, thanked the other team members and the medical staff.

  The team is led by Pat Falvey, a professional Cork mountaineer who climbed Everest in 1995, two years after Dawson Stelfox became the first Irish man to reach the summit. 

  The two women on the team are Clare O’Leary (31), a doctor at Cork University Hospital, and Hannah Shields (37), a Derry dentist. Also in the group are Gerard McDonnell, originally from Kilcornan, Co Limerick, and Mick Murphy, owner of an outdoor pursuit centre in West Cork.

  At present the climbers have dropped back to stage one on the climb to prepare for the final assault on the summit.

  “It was a lot of slogging and it’s been fairly mundane and boring for them,” said team co-ordinator Liavon Flattery, “but after the rest period is over, it’ll be all go.”

  More than 120 corpses still lie on Everest, including nine of Pat Falvey’s climbing friends. Why, some may ask, are the team willing to pay 40,000 each and risk their lives to climb Everest? 

  When George Mallory, the British climber who died on the slopes of Everest, was asked the same question, he replied simply: “Because it is there.”

accidents:
  Shorten cerebral edema on May 3 (evacuated by helicopter to KTM, May 8 and left Nepal, he is Ok now)


expid: EVER03134
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Robert Anderson
sponsor: Jagged Globe Everest Expedition 2003
countries: Canada, Mexico, Netherlands, Norway, S Africa, UK
bcdate: 2003-04-07
smtdate: 2003-05-26
smttime: 0730
termdate: 2003-05-29
campsites: BC(07/04),C1(14/04,6100m),C2(20/04,6400m),C3(23/04,7200m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(26/05)
accidents: Ziel serious frostbitten nose and some fingers
achievment: Vilane 1st black summiter
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  C2 in W Cwm
  C3 on West Face
  C4 at S Col.

  21st May unsuccessful summit bid with 120 other people to 8400m by Anderson, Hamilton, Minakata, Ponce, Stam and Vilane and Ziel and 5 Sherpas (Pasang Tenzi, Thunde, Nima Tenzi, Dawa Tenzing and Pemba Tshering) and all people back to South Col. [Gangdal and Ousland also on this attempt.]

  25th next bid by Anderson, Hamilton, Minakata, Ponce, Vilane and same 5 Sherpas [plus Stam, Ousland, Ziel]; left C4 at 9:00 pm. 2 Mexicans on top at 7:30 am and rest 8:30 am - took 2-1/2 hours from South Summit to summit but could have done it in 1 hour if there had not such large number of people and lack of snow on scree at bottom of Hillary Step and up Step. Back to C4 (Mexicans) and Vilane at 6:00 pm, Anderson and Hamilton 9:00 pm (late because Ziel had gotten to 8840m and then snowblind so 2 leaders had to bring him down); others who tried on 25-26th but failed were to 8565m - Stam (too slow and oxygen problems) and Ousland to South Summit at 8:00 am and "terrible wind, had been too slow. All slept in C4.

  Foster left expedition 12 May exhausted; Crellin also left same day exhausted; Wickham left 24 May also exhausted.

  Vilane: "It was fantastic, the whole climb and coming back again," "very exciting to be the first black on summit" and "very proud" to be first black. Most difficult part for him was Hillary Step. "This was the one place that gave me some difficulties because I had to deal with rock crampons on." He did this climb to show blacks they can do this climb. Would like to climb another 8000er if the chance become available and would do this climb for himself. 

  Some claims arose in Swaziland, where Vilane was born, that he was citizen of Swaziland. Trekking agent says he came to Nepal on South African passport issued in Pretoria by South African govt.

  Oxygen used:

  Members and Sherpas on both summit bids: sleeping in C3, all except Anderson to C4, all in C4, C4 to top to C4. Anderson did not use it to C4 because he gave it to Ziel while helping him to descend.

  Summit Sherpas
    Pasang Tenzing, 19 (15/6/2041), Gaurishankar VDC, 1st 8000er
    Thunde, 26 (7/11/2034), Gaurishankar VDC, 1st 8000er
    Pema Tshering, 33 (2/3/2027), Makalu VDC, 1st 8000er
    Dawa Tenzing, 28 (14/7/2032), Gaurishankar VDC, 1st 8000er
    Nima Tenzi, 23 8/5/2037), Gaurishankar VDC, 1st 8000er


expid: EVER03135
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Benjamin Clark
sponsor: Mountain Dream to Everest
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2003-04-14
smtdate: 2003-05-22
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2003-05-27
campsites: BC(14/04,5200m),ABC(22/04,6400m),C1(24/04,7100m),C2(20/05,7800m),C3(21/05,8300m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Nomad Expeditions
routememo:
  BC at CBC
  C1 at North Col.

  Left C3 at 01:00 hours NST. Summit at 09:00 hours, stayed about 20 minutes, returned to C3. Before Clark there two people who summited: one was Russian (Nicol) without oxygen. On the summit there were about six people. Saw prayers flags; weather was bad, poor visibility, windy, very cold with no view. 

  Returned to KTM on 28th, leaves on 29th.


expid: EVER03136
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Adrian Nature
sponsor: Independent climber
approach: KTM->Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2003-04-08
smtdate: 2003-05-27
termdate: 2003-05-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to equipment problems, bad weather and lack of momentum
campsites: BC(08-09/04),xxx(27/05,7300m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Nature went to North Col only 3 times, last time on 27th May, and abandoned climb because of equipment problems, bad weather, never gained momentum, said Oates. His high point was 7300m according to Dawa.


expid: EVER03137
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Nick Arding
sponsor: Royal Navy & Royal Marines Everest North Ridge 2003
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2003-04-12
smtdate: 2003-05-22
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2003-05-27
campsites: BC(12/04,5200m),ABC(17/04,6400m),C1(27/04,7050m),C2(05/05,7600m),C3(18/05,8300m),Smt(22/05)
accidents: Minor frostbite
achievment: 1st ascent of Royal Navy
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  BC at 5200m CBC (Intermediate on 15th at 5800m)
  C1 at 7050m (N Col)

  Cantrill, Pearce, Chirring Dorje and Nawang Pasang Sherpa left C3 at 23:00 hours (NST) on May 21, summit at 09:30 hours on 22nd by Pearce and Chirring Dorje, stayed about 20 minutes, returned to C3 about 15:30 hours. Cantrill and Nawang returned from Second Step because of frostbite on left hand (ring finger) and tips on right hand and went down to ABC. It was windy about 40 km/h, snowfall, cloudy, poor visibility. Summiters on that day were French and other people. 

  A team of seven people of this expedition helped in rescuing Conan Harrod (British) who broke leg from North Ridge to BC. Provided Sherpa support, oxygen and medical assistance. The expedition had second summit team of three members and a Sherpa for 23rd but had to call off as they had to rescue Conan.

  1. Arding - up to 7200m on 23rd as support member
  2. Billingsley up to 7800m on 23rd
  3. Brown/Dr - up to North Col
  4. Cantrill - up to Second Step on 22nd
  5. Cummings - up to 7600m on 22nd as support member
  6. Francis - up to 7800m on 23rd
  7. Mullins - ABC
  8. Patterson - 7150m on 23rd as support member
  9. Pearce - summit
  10 Rearden - 6500m on 23rd
  11 Shepherd - 6400m
  12 Swift  - 7600m on 23rd
  13 Wilkinson - 7400m on 23rd as support member

  The expedition used oxygen with new delivery system developed by "Summit Oxygen Ltd" UK - called demand system (not constant flow). Working from a canister. The consumption of oxygen for summiters was low, 4 liters (2 bottles of 2 liters) from 7600m to summit and back to 7600m.

  The expedition returned to KTM on May 28 and to leave Nepal on June 02.

  Sherpa summiters: 
    Tshering/Chhiring Dorje, Beding, 25/10/74, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X3, Manaslu X1


expid: EVER03138
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Richard Dougan
sponsor: Northern Ireland Everest Expedition
countries: Ireland, New Zealand
bcdate: 2003-04-10
smtdate: 2003-05-31
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2003-06-04
agency: Explore Himalaya
campsites:
  BC(10/04,5200m),ABC(19/04,6400m),C1(25/04,7000m),C1.5(30/04,4500m),C2(20/05,7650m),C3(22/05,8300m),Smt(31/05)

routememo:
  1st summit bid by Dougan and Sharp up from C3 22 May at 2:30 NST and Sharp just before 2nd Step (8550m) got (4) badly frostbitten toes because oxygen mask not functioning properly, so back to C2. Dougan got to top of 2nd Step and wind terribly cold and also strong, then back to C2 for night. 23rd May to BC; both men at different speeds and their climb over. 

  Bannon and McGuinness in 2nd Summit bid, had good weather and had no wind on their summit day; left C3 for top 30/31 May midnight and on top about 9:00 am.


  McGuinness - 6 June 2003

  Virtually no wind on top. Left C3 for top 12:30 am 31st NST; on top McGuinness at 7:00 am, Bannon at 8:00 am. McGuinness had carried load including oxygen to C3, working as a Sherpa. Back C2 at 3:00 pm for McGuinness, 5:00 pm Bannon; 1st June in ABC.


  Oxygen:
    Dougan from 7900m to 8650m to C2
    Sharp  from C3 to bottom of Second Step at 8550m intermittently.
    Bannon from 7800m to C3, in C3 to top and back to C3 but not sleeping there 

  On arrival at BC, Synnott had serious cerebral edema and had to leave expedition immediately. Duggan went no higher than BC and left with Synnott.

accidents:
  Synnott serious cerebral edema; Dougan two frostbitten fingers; Sharp left toe frostbitten and finger nails


expid: EVER03139
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Jim Wickwire
sponsor: Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2003-03-31
smtdate: 2003-05-21
smttime: 0745
termdate: 2003-05-26
campsites: BC(31/03),ABC(09/04,6400m),C1(21/04,7000m),C2(19/05,7800m),C3(20/05,8200m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Nepal Village Trekking
routememo:
  Tent at Col had been blown into huge crevasse but important quantity of gear recovered; blown in 10-day storm 30 April to 9 May. 2 Roskelleys and 2 Sherpas left C3 at midnight of 20/21 May and were first on summit on 21 May at 7:45 am NST and down to C2 to sleep. No health problems in summit push climbers.

  Roskelleys used oxygen sleeping at 7800m and used it climbing and sleeping all way to top and down (Jess down to 8300m only cause had no more oxygen left, John to 7800m). Sherpas started use at 8300m to top to 8300m. 

  Down to ABC 22 May was traffic jam at ladder; "it was a zoo on the route all the time with so many people going up and especially at 2nd Step," John said.

  Bass and Wickwire left expedition, 7 May and left KTM 8 May.

accidents:
  Wickwire not acclimatizing; John bad throat; Jess bad tooth and had to go to KTM; Bass bad back and not higher than ABC


expid: EVER03140
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yasunari Yamashita
sponsor: Tokyo University of Agriculture Alpine Club Everest-Lhotse Exped
bcdate: 2003-03-26
smtdate: 2003-05-22
smttime: 0650
termdate: 2003-05-26
campsites: BC(26/03,5300m),C1(30/03,6100m),C2(08/04,6500m),C3(18/04,7300m),C4(27/04,7680m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  C1 at 6100m top of Icefall
  C2 at 6500m W Cwm
  C3 at 7300m Lhotse Face
  C4 at 7680m South Col.

  Summit Team: 5 members left for top at 9:00 pm on 21 May. 1 Sherpa (name not known) stopped at Hillary Step while others continued to top: Tanigawa arrived at 6:50 pm 22 May; Nagakubo at 7:10 am and stayed 1 hour; Yoshida at 7:40 am and stayed 30 minutes; Yamamura at 7:50 am and stayed 20 minutes; Hirose at 8:40 am and stayed 5 minutes; Phura Tshering and Lhakpa Dorje arrived at 8:40 am also and stayed 5 minutes. All used oxygen and returned to C4 same day; returned to BC 24 May.

  Sherpa summiters:

    Phurba Chhiri/Tshering, Saframa, Lokhim-9, Solu, 1968
    Lhakpa Dorje, Kurima, Sotang-6, Solu, 27/3/66, Everest X2

  Lhakpa Dorje said all summiters used oxygen in C4, climbing to top, down to C4 and again sleeping in C4.

accidents:
  Fukutome 4 frostbitten toes; Nakamura 3 toes and finger tips frostbitten; Hirose frostbitten toes; Yamamura 2 frostbitten toes; all by chopper from Lobuje to KTM on 25 May


expid: EVER03141
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Everest Expedition 2003
countries: Australia, China, Germany, Kuwait, UK, USA
bcdate: 2003-04-07
smtdate: 2003-05-22
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2003-06-04
accidents: Comoto slightly frostbitten fingers
agency: Mountain Experience
campsites:
  BC(07/04,5300m),ABC(16/04,6400m),C1(25/04,7000m),C2(26/04,7500m),C3(17/05,7900m),C4(18/05,8300m),Smt(22,31/05)

routememo:
  1st summit party left C4 at 11:45 pm of 21 May and on top at 9:00-11:00 am. All members who summited were in the party plus Kelly, who got to 50m from top after 11:00 am, running  short of oxygen and time so Brice told him to turn around and to return to 8300m as did summiters. Sherpas were Dawa Tenzing, Phurba Tashi, Dorje Sonam Gyalzen and Chhiring.

  2nd summit party left C4 at 11:30 pm 30 May and on top 5:00-7:00 31st. Chang to ABC, Fear to 7500m and Kelly to 7000m and Sherpas various camps bringing down camps. Sherpas were Phurba Tashi again, Dorje Sonam Gyalzen again, Chhiring again and Dawa Tenzing again (all 4 again from ABC).

  All 22nd summit members left BC about 26 May.

  Oxygen: 22nd summit party members in and from C3 to top to C4 or below; Sherpas some used it sleeping in C3, all in C4, to top to C4 and same below C4. 31st summit party: all members from C1, some sleeping in C2, all climbing from C2 to top to C3; Sherpas in and above C4 to C4.

  Summit Sherpas:

  22nd May: Phurba Tashi, Khumjung Everest X1, Cho Oyu X3
            Dorje Sonam Gyalzen, Phortse, 1981, 1st 8000er
            Chhiring, Khumjung, 24/6/69, 1st 8000er
            Dawa Tenzing, Phortse, Everest X1 
              (turned back 50m below summit with Kelly)

  31st May: same 4 Sherpas to top again from ABC

  Chung was first Hong Kong Chinese to summit from north side.
  Fear was first native-born Australian woman to summit.


expid: EVER03142
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Craig John
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Expedition 2003 Everest North
countries: Australia, Canada, Spain
approach: Lhasa->Shigatse->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2003-04-07
smtdate: 2003-05-20
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2003-05-25
campsites: BC(07/04,5180m),ABC(14/04,6400m),C1(23/04,7000m),C2(19/05,7700m),C3(20/05,8300m),Smt(20-21/05)
accidents: Harlingten from lack of oxygen; fall of White and also little frostbite of two fingers in each hand
agency: Great Escapes Trekking
routememo:
  May 20: left C3 at 05:00 hours. Sherpas put up fixed line between Mushroom rock and top of Second Step. Da Nuru and Phu Nuru summited at 11:30 am, stayed about 10-15 minutes, back to ABC at 18:00 hours NST. Wheeler, White, Panuru and Karma had to return from 8500m due to weather conditions. Wheeler and White stayed at C2; two Sherpas to ABC. Booher stayed at C3. On 21st Booher left C3 at 01:00 am, summited at 11:30 am, stayed for 15 minutes, descended to C2 and next day to ABC. 

  Bramhill went up to 6600m exhausted, then descended to ABC. Harlingten up to ABC; he suffered from lack of oxygen which occurs in sea level as well.

  John up to 6850m, Gulding Nacho who also reached up to 6850m and had no strength to climb. White up to 8500m, while descending he slipped while on main rope that flogged the rope that caused the fall of Harrod Conan (member of Adventure Peak Expedition, David Pritt, Leader) which broke his leg. Panuru Sherpa and others helped bring Harrod Conan up to the ridge.

  - Harlingten left expedition on April 10
  - Bramhill left expedition on April 22
  - Nacho left expedition on April 29

  Sherpas summiters:
    Dawa Nuru Sherpa (26 Oct 1978), Phortse
    Phu Nuru Sherpa (16 May 1980) - first time summit on Everest

  Other Sherpas:
    Panuru Sherpa (22 May 1968) - had 3 or 4 times summit on Everest
    Mingma Ongel Sherpa (17 March '78)
    Karma Rita Sherpa

  All Sherpas are from same village Phortse.

  Expedition returned to KTM on May 25 and leaves on 27th.


expid: EVER03143
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Terence Stubbs
sponsor: Adventure Extreme Everest Expedition 2003
countries: Germany, S Africa
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2003-04-08
smtdate: 2003-05-22
termdate: 2003-05-27
campsites: BC(08/04,5200m),ABC(14/04,6400m),C1(25/04,7000m),C2(20/05,7700m),C3(21/05,8300m),xxx(22/05,8550m)
accidents: Leader got stroke (Stubbs)
agency: Mountain Madness
termnote:
  Abandoned at 8550m due the decision taken by Sirdar Ang Jangbu Sherpa not to continue climbing (he took all equipment)

routememo:
  BC 5200m at CBC
  C1 7000m at North Col.

  Leader Stubbs had stroke and left ABC on April 11; probably left Nepal within 5 days. He is Ok back home. C1 occupied on April 25 at 7000m by all members except Stubbs. Three Sherpas occupied C2 on May 20 (7700m) by Elderkin, Maccrimmon, Chuldin and Pasang; C3 occupied on 21st (8300m) by same members and Sherpas. On 22nd Maccrimmon and Chuldin left C3 at 01:50 hours, reached 8500m at 09:00 hours, waited for an hour; very cold, so descended to C3 where both reached at 02:30 hours. 

  Thompson said that members wanted to try again but sirdar Ang Jangbu refused to stay and also refused to leave equipment and supplies for the members. The reason as told by Thompson was Ang Jangbu had to go to the USA and wanted to return to KTM early.

  Stubbs left ABC on April 11. He had minor stroke. Probably left Nepal within 5 days. He is ok now.

  Schaefer left ABC on May 4, left Nepal on 11th. He got bored - he went up to C1.

  Elderkin and Thompson to leave Nepal on 30th.
  Stevens to leave Nepal on June 1st.
  Rest of the members on different dates.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Jangbu Sherpa (sirdar) (28-4-1960), Phakding, Chaurikharka, Solu
    Pasang Dawa Sherpa (1978), Chaurikharka-3, Solu
    Chuldin Tsheri Sherpa (1966), Namche-9, Khumbu

  Oxygen used: from 7700m to 8550m and back; Sherpas used from 8300m.


expid: EVER03144
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Global Extremes Everest Expedition
countries: New Zealand
bcdate: 2003-04-07
smtdate: 2003-05-30
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2003-06-04
accidents: Warner hit by falling oxygen bottles on back of head and left 26 May
agency: Mountain Experience
campsites:
  BC(07/04,5300m),ABC(16/04,6400m),C1(25/04,7000m),C2(26/04,7500m),C3(17/05,7900m),C4(18/05,8300m),Smt(30/05)

routememo:
  1st summit bid on 21st did not go above 8300m because helped summiters from Brice's other expedition to descend. 

  Successful attempt partly left at 1:30 am of 30 May and on top 9:00 am, pretty much together.

  Henkels left expedition about 15 May, Pinson left 26th and so did Seyer and Warner (Warner after having been hit on back of his head on 23rd and wanted to get checkup at home). Oxygen bottles fell after having been dumped in soft snow and snow melted.

  Oxygen used by 30th summit party: members from C1 (since they had earlier been to C4) all the way in and climbing to all camps to top and down until supplies ran out; Sherpas in C3, to top and down to C3 only. After summiting on 30th, Ricket, Norton, Mahon descended to ABC to sleep; Whetu slept in C2 becase he was carrying big loads down; Brown slept in C1; Sherpas were busy clearing all camps and went down to various camps at various times.

  Summit Sherpas:
    Karsang Namgel, Thami, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X3
    Lobsang Temba, Khumjung, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X3
    Phuru Gyalzen, Pangkoma, 03/10/69, 1st 8000er
    Lhakpa Thundu, Khumjung, 29/11/63, 1st 8000er
    Chuldim Dorje, Khumjung, 25/7/63 (brother of Lobsang Temba)
    Tashi Tenzing, Tibetan, 1st 8000er


expid: EVER03145
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: E Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Ian Woodall
sponsor: Everest NE Face Expedition
countries: S Africa
approach: Tingri & Kharta by road and 6 days trek through snow to BC
bcdate: 2003-04-15
smtdate: 2003-05-03
termdate: 2003-05-28
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to lack of manpower
campsites: BC(15/04,5300m),ABC(02/05,5550m),xxx(03/05,5800m)
accidents: Woodall serious breathing problem
agency: Sherpa Cooperative Trekking (SCT)
routememo:
  BC  at 5300m, last moraine field (lake east of foot of East Ridge)
  ABC at Kangchung Glacier moraine
  High point at 5800m, 200m below top of ramp to East Ridge.

  Slowed badly by lack of manpower with only 1 Sherpa and 2 members. From BC saw massive avalanching of hanging seracs and changed idea of where to climb because only possible to climb in fast alpine-style non-stop climb. Decided only safe option was to try East Ridge. ABC was 4 km straight line from BC at bottom of South Face of start of ridge 40m walk from bottom of climb up snow ramp. Both sections of powder snow knee-deep on top of hard ice and could not manage with gear at disposal to fix routes and as temperature warmed up, crevasses widened needing ladders as in icefall. Winds half destroyed BC 3 May and had to go back down to recover. 

  Ian and Gyalzen went back to route. Ang Gyalzen fell into crevasse but got out; later Woodall collapsed with acute respiratory problem at 5700m; Ang Gyalzen had to support Woodall to BC and out of oxygen through night of 11 May. Loss of altitude helped so no question of resuming climb. 

  Had reached high point on 3 May (O'Dowd and Ang Gyalzen while Woodall was behind carrying gear); stopped at 5800m because becoming very steep and needed to fix route and this unable to do). O'Dowd having back problems carrying loads so did not join return to climb of 11 May. Then Woodall collapsed and too risky for him to return to climb. 

  Yaks booked for 29 May and jeep for 1 June, so stayed in BC watching snowfall and did clear route during this time. BC far from mountain because yaks could go no further in deep snow.

  They will not go back to Everest again.


expid: EVER03146
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Brazil
leaders: Paulo Coelho
sponsor: Independent team on Everest
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2003-04-19
smtdate: 2003-05-29
termdate: 2003-05-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to high wind
campsites: BC(19/04,5200m),ABC(24/04,6500m),C1(30/04,7000m),C2(29/05,7600m),xxx(29/05,7600m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 5200m
  C1 at 7000m North Col

  The couple could reached up to C2 at 7600m. Due to strong wind they had to give up the climb. They lost C1 tent with all equipments, clothes, stoves, supplies which was blown away by storm on about the 11th. They had to put up another tent on May 13 at C1. It was not possible for them to continue climbing without support by others due to windy weather conditions and gave up the the climb. They intend to try again next year. The couple came back to KTM on May 30 and leave on June 01.

  Mrs Coelho said that they saw Krysztof Liszewski at North Col on 13th.


expid: EVER03171
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Wilfried Studer
sponsor: Independent team on Everest
bcdate: 2003-04-19
smtdate: 2003-05-27
termdate: 2003-05-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to strong winds
campsites: BC(19/04),ABC(14/05),C1(20/05,7100m),xxx(27/05,7500m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  26 May Studers returned to C1 to go to top. 27 May went up from C1 but wind too strong and down same day all the way to ABC and climb finished. Reached 7500m at 10:00 am NST, then back to North Col, ABC and BC same day.


expid: EVER03148
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Olivier Besson, Pierre Blanc
sponsor: Everest 2003 (Etienne permit)
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2003-04-21
smtdate: 2003-05-22
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2003-05-27
campsites: BC(21/04,5200m),ABC(27/04,6400m),C1(07/05,7000m),C2(18/05,7700m),C3(21/05,8300m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
routememo:
  Besson, Blanc, Lachaud and the two Sherpas left C3 on May 22 at 2:00 hours. Besson reached summit at 8:00 hours and stayed 30 minutes; Blanc reached summit at 8:45 with Kili and stayed 10 minutes. Both to ABC at 17:30 NST. Lachaud with Nima Nurbu Lama reached summit 9:30 hours and stayed 45 minutes, returned at 18:60 hours to C2. 

  Besson and Blanc used oxygen from C2 to summit to C2, and Kili from 8300m. 

  Were in Denis Etienne's permit but were separate team on mountain.

  Sherpa detail:
    Kili Pemba Sherpa (2037-2-2), Beding, Dolakha


expid: EVER03149
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Alberto Rodriguez
sponsor: Guardia Civil Expedition 2003
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2003-04-11
smtdate: 2003-05-22
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2003-05-25
campsites: BC(11/04,5200m),ABC(18/04,6400m),C1(22/04,7000m),C2(19/05,7700m),C3(20/05,8300m),Smt(22/05)
accidents: Frostbite of hands of Castillo at C2 while descending
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC
  C1 at North Col.

  Castillo, Partal Coca and Tashi left C3 at 02:00 hours NST on 22nd, summit at 13:00 hours, stayed 30 minutes, returned to C3 at 21:00 hours. Next day ABC. Partal Coca returned from Second Step. Weather was windy and cloudy. French did summit (Yves) almost same time. There were people from south side also. 

  Aguirre up to Second Step (8600m) on 21st, but bad weather. Arroya to C3 on 21st tired, so no summit attempt. Caso up to 8500m on 21st, bad weather. Garrido in C2 organizing summit attempt for other members. Molinos to ABC. Rodriguez up to Second Step on 21st, bad weather. Romero and Villar wanted to try, but there were no Sherpas for them to go with. 

  The expedition returned to KTM on 26th. Eighth member left on 27th, Garrido to leave on June 1st. Garrido telephoned and left message about Expedition's return.

  Sherpas:
    Tashing Chhiring (3-4-78), Rolwaling VDC, 1st 8000er
    Lhakpa Dorje (18 April 58)
    Mingma Dorje (21-12-67)
    Tshering Dorji (17 April 85)
    Tenzing Dorje (1970)


expid: EVER03150
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Bertrand Camus, Alain Paret
sponsor: Nomad Everest Expedition 2003
bcdate: 2003-04-21
smtdate: 2003-05-21
termdate: 2003-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to bad weather which made impossible to climb alone
campsites: BC(21/04,5200m),ABC(28/04,6400m),C1(05/05,7060m),xxx(21/05,8300m)
accidents: Minor frostbite on feet
agency: Nomad Expeditions
routememo:
  Camus started from C1 at 04:00 reached 8300m around 12:00 hours, then back to C1 about 16:00 hours. Paret went up to 7400m, then went down to ABC on 20th. Camus says with oxygen and Sherpa support Everest summit is not difficult.


expid: EVER03151
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Martin Ramos Garcia
sponsor: Independent climber on Everest
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2003-04-11
smtdate: 2003-05-22
termdate: 2003-05-25
termnote: Abandoned at 8600m due to cold weather and lack of time
campsites: BC(11/04,5200m),ABC(18/04,6400m),C1(22/04,7000m),C2(26/04,7700m),C3(21/05,8300m),xxx(22/05,8600m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC at CBC
  C1 at North Col
  High point at Second Step.

  Left C3 at midnight of 21st and reached below Second Step (8600m) at about 08:00 hours, waited for an hour. It was very cold and windy. He felt very cold and went down to C2 where he reached at 10:30 hours and gave up the climb. Ramos Garcia returned to KTM on 25 and leaves on 29th.


expid: EVER03152
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Karl Kobler
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Everest Expedition 2003
countries: Austria, France
bcdate: 2003-04-12
smtdate: 2003-05-22
termdate: 2003-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 8600m due to unfavourable weather forecast and members tired
campsites: BC(12/04,5000m),ABC(14/04,6400m),C1(19/04,7000m),C2(20/05,7800m),C3(21/05,8300m),xxx(22/05,8600m)
accidents: Tibetan Pemba altitude sickness
agency: Iceland Trekking (Dorje)
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  High point at just below 2nd Step.

  Long time to occupy C2 because of big storms that ruined tents, but no gear lost - tents at ABC and at 7800m (tent put there by Sherpa) but not at North Col, where camps were very well protected from wind. 22 May summit party left C3 at 1:00 am NST: Fessler, Julien, Kobler, Krug, Meyer, M. Pasche, Olivier Pasche, Ulrich, Karma Sherpa**, Pemba Sherpa, Pemba (Tibetan), Mingma Sherpa and (name?) Sherpa - reached 6:30 am slightly below 2nd Step, now windy and cloudy. At 2nd Step 15 climbers in queue for Step, Kobler decided to retreat because worried about recurrance of 1996 disaster. Most who went on up came back with frostbite, snowblindness and 1 with broken leg (Pritt's team), so Kobler happy with decision. 2 members down to ABC. Now weather forecast was bad winds till end of month and most members too tired to try again.

  Oxygen use: Summit party members and Sherpas climbing up from 7800m, sleeping at 8300m and summit attempt and back to 8300m (and sleeping).

  Iten left expedition end April, never reached ABC, frightened and couldn't sleep.
  Michel left 20 April homesick.
  Wellig left end April with his client Iten.

  This team, Brice's team and Chinese fixed almost entire route from 6700m.

  ** Iceland Trekking's Karma Gelja 18 July 2003: 

  On 22 May summit bid Sherpas and Tibetan were:
     Mingma Sherpa to 8600m, Tashigaon, Makalu VDC
     Nima Tamang to 8600m, Tapting, Solu
     Pasang Sherpa to 8600m, Tashigaon
     Pemba Tamang to 8500m, Taksindu
     Pemba (Tibetan) to 8350m, then had to go down because of altitude sickness


expid: EVER03153
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Sergi Mingote Moreno
sponsor: Evve 50th to Everest
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2003-04-11
smtdate: 2003-05-22
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2003-05-26
campsites: BC(11/04,5350m),C1(19/04,6018m),C2(20/04,6374m),C3(02/05,7120m),C4(21/05,8000m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  The above information is based on Mingote's web page (www.sergimingote.elperido.com). No email reply from Mingote so far.

  Summit Sherpas:
    Thilen, 18/5/68, Tashigaon, Everest X3
    Nima Dorje, 22, Tashigaon, Makalu-5, 1st 8000er

  Mingote and 2 Sherpas went to C4 twice on 3 May and again on 21 May; weather unfavorable for summit push on 4 May.

  Oxygen: Mingote used in 2 climbs to C4: sleeping in C3 2 May, to Col on 3 May, sleeping 1 night at Col, and down to C3; in C2 20 May and continously to return to C2 on 23 May. Sherpas in and above C4 both times.


expid: EVER03154
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Alexander Abramov
sponsor: Russian Everest 2003
countries: Georgia
approach: Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->CBC
bcdate: 2003-04-10
smtdate: 2003-05-26
smttime: 0945
termdate: 2003-05-30
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(10/04,5100m),ABC(15/04,6780m),C1(17/04,7000m),C2(27/04,7500m),C3(21/05,7900m),C4(21/05,8300m),Smt(26,29/05)

routememo:
  BC  at 5100m, IBC at 5800m - 14 April and 3 Sherpas
  ABC at 6380m all - Abramov, Gudjabidze, Kaymachnikov, Pushkarev, Sergeev
  C1 at 7000m - all, no Sherpas
  C2 at 7500m - Gudjabidze, Tsarev, Kaymachnikkov, Pushkarev, no Sherpas
  C3 at 7900m - Abramov, Kaymachnikov, Pushkarev, Tsarev
  C4 at 8300m - Abramov, Kaymachnikov, Pushkarev, Tsarev

  22 May - Abramov, Kaymachnikov, Pushkarev and Tsarev up to Second Step, 
           returned to C3 due to bad weather conditions.
  26 May - Elagin stayed 30 minutes on top, back to C4 at 15:30
           Gudjabidze stayed 30 minutes on top, back to C4 at 9 pm
  29 May - Larin stayed 30 minutes on top, back to C4 at 9 pm

  Yelagin met leader of Italian team who did and summit (no oxygen), took picture of Makalu and Cho Oyu. Gudjabidze saw 2 Italians, who were sitting and then started down. Larin saw flags, Nepali flag on oxygen bottle.

  Comments: bad weather, too many climbers.

  Oxygen: 
    Abramov, Kaymachnikov, Pushkarev and Tsarev from 7500m 
    Kaymachnikov, Pushkarev and Tsarev from 7700m
    Elagin, Gudjabidze, Larin, Litinsky, Moskalev, Pashkov and Soyfer from 7500m
    Sergeev from 7000m, down to C4 and for sleep

  Tsarev left BC 27 due to frostbite (may lose one left toe)
              All returned to KTM 31st May


expid: EVER03155
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Viatcheslav Skripko
sponsor: Independent team on Everest
bcdate: 2003-04-15
smtdate: 2003-05-22
termdate: 2003-06-01
termnote: Abandoned at 8600m due to no oxygen left and no funds for Sherpas support
campsites: BC(15/04),ABC(19/04,6400m),C1(19/05,7000m),C2(20/05,7800m),C3(21/05,8300m),xxx(22/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at 7000m North col
  C2 at 7800m (shared tent with Irish)
  C3 at 8300m N Face (shared tent with Romanians).

  Summit bid of 22 May was by Skripko only from this team but with Romanian expedition. Shared tents with Irish at C2 and with Romania at C3 but made summit bid without the Romanians. Skripko left C3 for top 3:00 am Chinese time and got to 8600m, then decided to switch oxygen bottles, but some eye problem from spindrift snow, had to take off goggles to rub frozen snow on eyelashes, and had double vision, after on hour trying to warm eyes and not succeeding, down at 12:00 noon Chinese time, down without goggles because could see only short distance ahead, couldn't see at tent; next morning could see and now wearing goggles down to C1 to sleep. From North Col down, he pushed his toes too hard and previously frostbitten feet sensitive to frostbite, got frostbitten again (one foot has no toes left and that area of amputation - also frostbitten). Skripko had to give up idea of another attempt when he returned to C4 and realized he had no funds left to pay for Sherpa support, no oxygen left and then his frostbitten condition.

  Bojoukov made no serious attempt to climb the mountain and now too old for it (had considerable experience in USSR days), so all his movements up and down Everest were to test different systems of oxygen and once to go to C2 to look for missing Pole, Krysztof Liszewski. 
   
  [On 9 June, Bojoukov claimed he reached 8350m on 18 April.]


expid: EVER03156
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Andre Menu
sponsor: Nomad Everest Expedition 2003
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2003-04-21
smtdate: 2003-04-29
termdate: 2003-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 7060m due to weather and physical condition
campsites: BC(21/04,5200m),ABC(26/04,6400m),C1(29/04,7060m),xxx(29/04,7060m)
accidents: Minor frostbite because he did not use gloves for climbing
agency: Nomad Expeditions
routememo:
  BC at 5200m CBC
  C1 at 7060m North Col

  There was not much climbing. Most of the time Menu stayed at ABC.
  Returned to KTM on 28th leaving on 29th.

  Menu wore no gloves because he had been to North Col on previous expedition without gloves or jacket, so wanted to climb entirely without gloves. Russian doctor advised him not to try.


expid: EVER03157
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Jong-Gyu
sponsor: Konkuk University Alpine Club 2003 Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2003-03-29
smtdate: 2003-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due to weather and lack of time
agency: NE-KO Treks
campsites:
  BC(29/03,5300m),C1(12/04,6100m),C2(18/04,6400m),C3(23/04,7100m),C4(20/05,7900m),xxx(21/05,8100-8200m)

routememo:
  BC at usual camp site
  C1 at usual camp site
  C2 at usual camp site
  C3 at usual camp site
  C4 at South Col.

  May 20: At 9:30 pm Kim Dong-Hyeon, Lim Chang-Hwan, Ryu Ung-Hee and Kancha Nuru Sherpa left C4 for summit. Ang Babu (Jimba) had to wait at C4 for the Sherpa who was to bring flag from C2 which the members forgot at C2. Ang Babu left C4 at 10 pm without the flag as the flag carrying Sherpa did not come till 10 pm. When Ang Babu reached at about 8100m, he saw the other expedition members coming down due to storm. Ang Babu waited for three climbing members and Kancha Nuru at the same place. He estimates the highest point of other climbing members not beyond 8200m. Together three members and two Sherpas reached C4 at midnight of 21st. Ang Babu wanted to continue for summit with Kim Dong-Hyeon next day but leader Lim Jong-Ha asked them to give up climbing and to descend. Between 8:30 am and 10 am members and two Sherpas left C4 to C2 and same day to BC. where they arrived in the evening. By that time leader Lim had already left BC. Kancha Nuru got sick and admitted to tent hospital of HRA and also checked by army doctor. According to doctors the case of Kancha Nuru was a bad ulcer. On 24th Kancha Nuru was evacuated from BC to KTM by helicopter. After that four members and Sherpas left the BC same day. The group arrived KTM on May 28 and left Nepal on 29th.

  Kim Jong-Gyu (climbing) leader, who reached up to C3 on April 23, had to leave BC on or about May 17 and left Nepal on about 22nd, due to his work back home.

  Expedition leader Lim Jong-Ha, left BC on May 21 apparently very upset for not having summited on 21st, the target and (probably) sole objective of expedition to meet the another Korean expedition on the top. Ang Babu said that Lim fully blamed Sherpas for this failure. Lim left Nepal on 31st according to Mr. Thakur, receptionist (desk manager) of Villa Everest. Lim's arrival to KTM was about 25th.


expid: EVER03158
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Estonia
leaders: Toivo Sarmet
sponsor: Estonian Everest Expedition 2003
countries: Lithuania
approach: KTM->Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2003-03-29
smtdate: 2003-05-22
smttime: 1440
termdate: 2003-05-26
accidents: Margus Proos fell into crevasse about 4 meters deep on 18th
achievment: 1st Estonian expedition to summit
agency: Monterosa Treks
campsites:
  BC(29/03,5200m),ABC(02/04,6400m),C1(17/04,7050m),C2(01/05,7600m),C3(22/05,7800m),C4(21/05,8300m),Smt(21/05)

routememo:
  Proos injured his back; next day sent down to ABC and KTM. 
  Loik had to leave ABC on May 16 due to job.

  May 22: Vilius and Sikk left C4 at 02:00 hours. Vilius summited at 14:40 hours, stayed 30 minutes. Sikk summited at 15:00 hours, stayed about 15 minutes. Both descended to C4. They had to wait at Second Step almost 2 hours. Before them were members from St. Petersberg expedition without oxygen going up almost together. About 30 people were there on summit from both sides - others probably Koreans, Japanese and Chinese. 

  Lai at Second Step got frostbite on left last finger and all other fingers of both hands. 

  The expedition returned to KTM on May 27 and leave on 30 or 31st.


expid: EVER03159
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Takashi Amemiya
sponsor: Yeti 2003 Mt Everest Expedition
countries: France
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2003-04-08
smtdate: 2003-05-20
smttime: 0915
termdate: 2003-05-28
campsites: BC(08/04,5100m),ABC(19/04,6300m),C1(22/04,7000m),C2(18/05,7800m),C3(19/05,8300m),Smt(20,22/05)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC at 5100m CBC first intermediate camp - 5600m on 12th
                 second intermediate camp - 6000m on 14th
  C1 at 7000m North Col (used by Grenier, Izumida and Okochi)
  C2 at 7800m used by Grenier & Okochi and 3 sherpas
  C3 at 8300m used by same members and Sherpas as of C2)

  Kitazawa got HAS at 6000m on 14th April (he could not speak and left half of body was paralyzed); moved to CBC same day and next day to KTM; hospitalized in Apollo hospital. Takabatake accompanied the Kitazawa to Ktm. Kitazawa left Nepal on May 8. Takabatake returned to CBC on April 21.

  First team: May 20 started from C3 at 03:00 hours (NST) two members and three Sherpas. Summit at 09:15 hours. All together stayed 35 minutes, then descended -> Pemba Tshering stayed at C2, other members to ABC. Okochi arrived ABC at 17:30 hours, Grenier at 18:30 hours together with two Sherpas. This is the first team to summit from north side in this season. While descending the team members saw five dead bodies. Met two Sherpas coming up from American expedition while descending.

  Second team: May 22 Three members and three Sherpas started from C3 at 02:00 hours. Summit at 12:00 hours together. Spent about 30 minutes on summit, returned to C3; Takabatake, Tanaka and Lhakpa at 16:00 hours, Izumida and two Sherpas at 18:30. They were very tired. It was very cold, poor visibility, sometimes very strong wind and snowfall. According to Amemiya (leader) Izumida met Yousira on summit from south side. There were about 10 to 15 people when the Yeti team reached summit.

  Initially the expedition planned to have third team to summit comprising of two members Miyaderea and Uchida who reached up to 7800m (C2), but due to lack of support team the expedition decided not to try summit.

  Minor frostbites - fingers of the following members: 
  - Grenier, Izumida, Kohara, Okochi, Takabatake, Tanaka.

  Oxygen: All members used oxygen at 7800m (C2) for sleep and climbing to summit back to C2. All Sherpas used oxygen from 8300m (C3) to summit and to C3.

  Following members went to Lhasa and arrived KTM on June 03.
  - Amemiya, Izumida, Kohara, Okochi, Takabatake, Tanaka

  Rest of the members arrived KTM on May 29
  - Grenier and Okochi left Nepal on June 03.
    Rest of the members will leave Nepal on June 07.

  Adrian Nature told Takabatake on 25 or 26 May that his friend Krysztof did not come down (ABC) for 8 days.
    
  Members reached up to:
  - leader Amemiya remained at ABC; Fujimura up to C2 (7800m)
  - Kohara up to C3 (8300m), Kono up to C1 (7000m), Mrs. Maeda to ABC
  - Miss Miyadera to C2 (7800m), Ogasawara to C1 (7000m), Uchida to C1 (7000m)

accidents:
  Kitazawa got HAS at 6000m on 14th April (he could not speak and left half of body was paralyzed); moved to CBC same day and next day to KTM; left Nepal May 8


expid: EVER03160
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Jun Yasamura
sponsor: Gorilla & Kame Chomolungna Expedition 2003
bcdate: 2003-04-10
smtdate: 2003-05-21
smttime: 1235
termdate: 2003-05-27
campsites: BC(10/04),ABC(28/04,6430m),C1(01/05,7000m),C2(07/05,7700m),C3(10/05,8200m),Smt(21/05)
accidents: Ito pulmonary edema (17 Apr to KTM and to Japan); Araki snowblindness
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  C1 at North Col.

  After C3 occupied, went to BC to rest. 14 May up to ABC; 18th May to C1, 18th to C2, 20th to C3 and summit 21 May. Left 3:00 am NST and top 12:35 pm; already Chinese/Tibetans on top but climbed very slowly and this time could move only slowly. Araki not wearing goggles because he said he could not see with them; 22 May he was snowblind. Yasumura fired him from expedition (though he returned KTM with team) because refused to take leader's advice to wear them and Sherpas said he was dangerous. 

  Oxygen from C2 sleeping to top to C3; Sherpas only climbing from C3 to top to C3.

  Ito and Mokudai went to ABC only.


expid: EVER03161
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Krysztof Liszewski
sponsor: Independent climber on Everest
approach: KTM->Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2003-04-08
smtdate: 2003-05-25
termdate: 2003-05-25
campsites: BC(08-09/04),C1(7000m),C2(7600m),xxx(25/05,7600m?)
accidents: Liszewski's fatal fall
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  C1 at 7000m North col
  C2 at 7600m top of snow camp
  xxx at about 7600m at C2?

  Liszewski was extremely independent, climbed with no one else and spoke seldom to others but did, said Bojoukov, help repair other teams' tent broken by winds and cooked pancakes for others. Brice team members found his tent at C2 destroyed after he had been missing for 6 days, said Bojoukov, [Brice figured 7 days]. Bojoukov went up to C2 to look for him on 30th May but did not find him. His body was found by yakmen on 31 May, according to Bojoukov; Brice said when he was descending from North Col he saw 3 yakmen on East Rongbuk Glacier near ABC find Liszewski's body there at 5500m, where he landed in fall from C2; no hat, gloves or boots were on fallen body, which was badly smashed up. Brice speculates strong wind may have blown Liszewski off balance when he went out from tent to collect snow to melt. Bojoukov said Liszewski did not understand how to climb in this season's bad weather conditions of much snow and strong winds, which forced him to stay on mountain long time and lose strength. Skripko said he thought he heard Liszewski's distinctive voice at C1 in the morning of 24 May but not certain of this. Skripko took Pole's passport and other items at ABC in Pole's bag, gave bag to liaison officer, who extracted passport.

  Email from Polish climber Piotr Pustelnik, who scaled Everest via North Col routes in May 1995: Regarding Liszewski's fall,"when you fall from very high, you can stay on Rongbuk Glacier, but if you fall from lower altitude, you can go to Long Couloir and land on East Rongbuk."


expid: EVER03162
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Anatoli Moshnikov
sponsor: St. Petersburg Everest 2003 Jubilee Expedition
countries: Canada
approach: KTM->Zangmu->Nyalam->Tingri->CBC
bcdate: 2003-04-08
smtdate: 2003-05-22
smttime: 1215
termdate: 2003-05-28
campsites: BC(08/04,5170m),ABC(12/04,6400m),C1(21/04,7060m),C2(10/05,7750m),C3(21/05,8300m),Smt(22/05)
accidents: Ershova pneumonia in BC
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
routememo:
  BC at 5170m, IBC 5350m on 10 Apr, 5800m on 11 Apr
  ABC at 6400m all
  C1 at 7060m all except Ershova, Nasedkin and Masterson
  C2 at 7750m Gaidamak, Moshnikov and Totmyanin
  C3 at 8300m Belous, Dulsky and Totmyanin

  Totmyanin 06:30 started from C3, summit at 15:00, 30 minutes on top, returned to C2 at 10 pm. Belous, Dulsky, Totmyanin all started from C3. Belous at 06:00 am, 8700m at 10 am. Belous and Dulsky returned to C3 at 12:30 pm.

  At the same time of Moscow expedition, more or less 100 persons on 2nd Step. Totmyanin - summited before him were 1 Estonian, 1 Lithuanian; 1 or 2 Spanish about 20 persons on the top at the same time. On the way back no more people summited. On the top more or less 8 oxygen bottles, flags, lots of snow, visibility of 50-100m, no view.
   
  Plans: Jannu autumn 2003

  Group leader's statement; no oxygen, no Sherpas, all has to be 100% sportive. 2 professional plans K2

  Dulsky and Ershova left for KTM 15 May. Rest of expedition returned to KTM 29 May. 

  *fixed rope 15x50 before Chinese, after Sherpas.


expid: EVER03163
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Petr Machold
sponsor: Czech Everest Expedition
approach: Lhasa->Shigatse->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2003-04-24
smtdate: 2003-05-21
termdate: 2003-05-28
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to strong wind
campsites: BC(24/04,5200m),ABC(27/04,6400m),C1(29/04,7060m),C2(21/05,7600m),xxx(21/05,7700m)
accidents: Kubicek mild frostbite
agency: Nepal Trans Himalayan Explorer
routememo:
  "We stayed at ABC continuously 5 weeks. All this time there was very strong wind. We started to climb 6 times to C1. On the first week we lost all our equipment we lost our tent in C1 and everything was inside. Then we climbed with tents from BC. Somebody stole our food in C1. Last ascent we climbed only with tea and nuts.

  Machold made snowboard descent on 14-15 May from C2 to ABC. "The routes copied ascent on North Ridge. The name is Choc crazy downhill."


expid: EVER03164
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Romania
leaders: David Neacsu
sponsor: Romanian Everest Expedition 2003
countries: Nepal, UK, USA
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2003-04-07
smtdate: 2003-05-22
smttime: 0810
termdate: 2003-05-25
termnote: All members left on May 25 except for Dijmarescu
campsites: BC(07/04,5200m),ABC(11/04,6400m),C1(01/05,7000m),C2(20/05,7700m),C3(21/05,8200m),Smt(22,31/05)
accidents: One Sherpa suffered from ulcer (sent back to KTM on May 4 or 5)
achievment: 1st Romanian team to top
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Tulpan left C3 at 23:30 hours NST on May 21, summit at 08:10 hours of 22nd. He met 4 Koreans who was to traverse to south side. There was one French with Sherpas; about 6 people were on summit. Two Koreans put new fix ropes while descending. Visibility was about 50 meters. Strong wind, Tulpan stayed about 40 minutes. He saw new ice axe, four grabs, *two ice screws maybe left by the Koreans. Returned to C3 at 12:00 hours. Saw three dead bodies on the way down. On Second Step had to wait for one hour due to very slow 3 Spanish climbers. Bogdan, Gane, Nima Gombu, Dawa Nuru left C3 at 01:00 hours on May 22. Summit at 11:30 hours and stayed about an hour. Before them were Korean/Spanish - there were about 20 people on the summit. Back to C3 about 17:00 hours. Nima and Dawa stayed on summit waiting for Lakpa. Bogdan and Gane while descending met Lakpa, Mingkipa, Mingma with other Sherpas coming up at about 50m below the summit. Dijmarescu had to return from before the First Step due to the problem of oxygen mask. All members reached up to C1.

  Records:
  1. First Romanian expedition to summit Everest.
  2. Tulpan paragided from North Col, landed at ABC level. Airborne 
     take off at 16:40 hours, landing at 17:10 hours. 30 minutes on the air.
     He thinks perhaps longest airborne time (paragliding) in Everest 
     area - high altitude. It took place on May 9.
  3. 3 members from same family (siblings) summiting same time Lakpa, Mingkipa and Mingma Gelu.

  Expedition returned on May 26 to KTM - leaving on June 06.

  Dijmarescu up to First Step on 22nd (at the time of meeting Dijmarescu was still on mountain for summit attempt). The bio-forms for Dijmarescu, BC at 5200m at CBC, C1 at 7000m N Col (pitched on April 23). 


  Lakpa and Mingkipa forms were given to leader Neacsu to be collected later. But was told that Dijmarescu refused to fill the forms. Did talk to Dijmarescu over telephone on his return - he refused to meet.

  - Dogaru up to 6500m, heartbeat (pulses) got rapid sent back to ABC.
  - Galescu about 7400m, the medicine (Diamox) allergy. He fell down at ABC, hit 
      ribs; radiography (X-Ray) done on 31st in KTM indicated cracks on two ribs. 
      He was sent down to CBC on May 21.
  - George had to leave expedition on April 16 due to family problem.
  - Neacsu got minor stroke, swollen face and hands. Up to C1, then rest of time 
      at CBC.
  - Sima up to 7300m on May 20, throat infection due to dry air in altitude;
      same day to ABC and CBC on 22nd.
  - Smilovici up to 7200m - same case like Sima
  - Georgescu stayed CBC. May 2 to KTM - 4 May to Romania - Low palpitation.
  - Koga went up to 2nd Step with the summiters, waited one and half hours. 
      Slept at C3. First time at that altitude.
  - Pisica up to 6500m, went down to ABC with Georgescu.
  - Ruchareanu up to 6400m - tooth infection, went to KTM, returned to CBC; all the 
      time could not go to Tibet due to no permit.

  4 June 2004 - Russell Brice's sirdar and summiter Phurba Tashi Dijmarescu went to summit on 31 May at same time as he - Dijmarescu was using oxygen.

  Lakpa and Mingkipa were not officially listed on the permit as team members, but were on the team as non-registered climbers instead of high-altitude porters (their official designation). Lakpa and Mingkipa are sisters and Lakpa is Dijmarescu's wife. Mingma Gelu is the brother of Lakpa and Mingkipa.


  March 2004

  Lapka told Elizabeth Hawley that Dijmarescu made a second and successful summit bid with Russians about 10 days after the first attempt on May 22. Dijmarescu remained on the mountain with the Russian team after the Romanian team departed on May 25. 

  When the Russians departed at the end of May, Viatcheslav Skripko reported via EverestNews.com that Dijmarescu was high on the mountain alone poised for a second attempt. EverestNews reported in early June 2003 that Dijmarescu summited on May 31. In December 2003, EverestNews published summit photos taken by Dijmarescu at 4:55 am.

  This summit success has not been confirmed by any other sources.


expid: EVER03165
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Wang Yong-Feng
sponsor: 2003 Chinese SOHU Qomolungma 'Standing on the 3rd Pole' Expedition
approach: Sherpas by road from KTM; all others from Lhasa
bcdate: 2003-04-03
smtdate: 2003-05-21
smttime: 1145
termdate: 2003-05-27
campsites: BC(23/03,05-06/04),ABC(09/04,6500m),C1(25/04,7000m),C2(26/04,7790m),C3(20/05,8300m),Smt(21-22/05)
accidents: Phu Dorje and 1 Chinese summiter snowblind and 2 Chinese slightly frostbitten fingers
agency: Great Escapes Trekking/Arun Treks
routememo:
  C1 at North Col
  C2 on ridge to NE Ridge
  C3 on North Face.

  1 May summiters reached top about 2:00 pm (Chinese time); 22 May summiters on top 1:00 pm (Chinese time).

  21st summiters Phu Dorje and one Chinese became snowblind because wind was so strong they couldn't see with goggles and took them off; the Chinese also got frostbite on 2 fingers. 21st summit party could not sleep in C3 on descent from top because next summit party was there; Chinese and Tibetans slept in C2 while Sherpas went down to ABC except for snowblind Phu Dorje who slept in C2. 22nd party slept in C3 in descent from top.

  Oxygen: both summit teams used it only in C3 to sleep, in descent, again in C3.

  Summit Sherpas: 
    Phinzo, Phortse, Everest X1, Manaslu X1
    Phu Dorje, Phortse, about 29 years old, 1st 8000er
    Tashi Tshering, Pangboche, Everest X8, Cho Oyu X1
    Pemba Dorje, Pangboche, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2
    Lhakpa Nuru, born in Khumjung but lives in Phortse, about 32 yrs, 1st 8000er

  1st summit party Chinese broadcast live pictures from top and claimed this as first live telecast from summit, but actually one Japanese on Japanese-Chinese-Nepalese expedition in 1988 sent TV pictures from helmet on Spring 1988 expedition from north side.


expid: EVER03166
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kang Tae-Sun
sponsor: Seoul-Tibet Joint Expedition 2003
countries: China
bcdate: 2003-04-10
smtdate: 2003-05-21
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2003-05-25
campsites: BC(10/04,5000m),ABC(14/04,6300m),C1(19/04,7000m),C2(19/05,7800m),C3(20/05,8300m),Smt(21-22/05)
accidents: Only Chi bad snowblindness and Um slight snowblindness
agency: NE-KO Treks
routememo:
  Summit bid began from C4 in 21 May at 3:00 am by 3 Tibetans, and by Chi Drugar and Cang at 3:50. S Korean party Park Joo-Hoon, Um and Pasang went up at different times because tents not close together, bad weather (much snow, windy cloudy) so no communication and Tibetans started with Chinese party. All reached summit at same time (and Chinese also) at 2:45 pm CST, very slow because of bad weather. Weather cleared 15 minutes before summit reached. Um with walkie-talkie asked Korean team about weather on Nepali side and was told weather very bad and Um climbed down 100m Nepali side and found it was very bad (windy and cloudy) so down Tibetan side instead. Um down to 7800m C2 and all others to C3 8300m only on 21st and 22nd to ABC. Others: Park and Pasang to ABC, 2 Tibetan woman to 7000m, Tibetan climbing leader snowblind and stayed 8300m.

  22 May summit party left 8300m at 8:20 am to go up to top: Koo, Park Jong-Gwan, Ko and Gyalha and on top 7:10 am to 8:00 am and down to 8300m. Had to wait long time to descend because so many other climbers on route at same time and reached 8300m at 4:30 pm. 23rd to ABC. Pasang Sherpa on 1st summit team because Tibetan women needed help in their descent and Koreans thought it was good to have one in case of accident and he (Sherpa) wanted to go to top. Um had planned to descend SE Ridge - South Col route to BC and had Nepalese permission.

  Oxygen used by all members of both summit parties from 8300m camp climbed up (except 2 Tibetans women from 7800m and sleeping at 8300m and all down to 8300m only - Um on low flow giving up because expected to need it down on Nepal side.

  Sherpa summiters: 
    Pasang Sherpa, 30-32 years old, Khumbu, 1st 8000er

  Chinese leader Chiu Zenig stayed in Lhasa, never went to BC.

  Oxygen used by all members of both summit parties from 8300m camp climbed up (except 2 Tibetan women from 7800m and sleeping at 8300m) and all down to 8300m only. Um on low [flow] going up because expected to need it down on Nepal side.


expid: EVER03168
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Scott Woolums
sponsor: Adventures International Everest 2003
countries: Canada, UK
bcdate: 2003-04-01
smtdate: 2003-05-22
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2003-05-26
campsites: BC(08/04,5400m),C1(14/04,6100m),C2(23/04,6300m),C3(03/05,7300m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(22/05)
agency: High Country Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 5400m usual campsite (18,000 ft)
  C1 at 6100m standard camp site
  C2 at 6300m standard camp site (21,000 ft)
  C3 at 7300m at Lhotse Face (24,000 ft).

  Summit Sherpas: 
    Mingmar Chhiri, 12/12/2027 (22 yrs old), Kharikhola, Everest X2 
    Jangbu, 3/6/2036 (23 yrs old), Kharikhola, 1st 8000er

  All 4 members made bid for summit together with 4 Sherpas, but McEvoy and Neal turned back at bottom of Hillary Step with 2 Sherpas (Lama Babu Sherpa from Bung, no 8000ers) and Phanden Sherpa (from Kharikhola, Everest x2 and Cho Oyu X2) because members were worried about their safety: weather seemed to be deteriorating and there were a lot of other people on the Step.

  May 21: Dargonne, McEvoy, Neal, Woolums, Jangbu, Mingma Chhiri, Phanden and Lama Babu left C4 at 11 pm. No wind wind, crystal clear skies, the perfect day. "Second night at South Col and we all felt ready after being on oxygen here since our arrival (from website)." All reached at South Summit on May 22 at 10 am. McEvoy and Neal decided to retreat due to weather (at that time started gathering clouds and windy), crowd ahead of them and tiredness; with McEvoy and Neal, Phenden and Lama Babu went down to C4. Woolums and Dargonne reached summit at 12:30 pm and Jangbu Sherpa and Mingma Chhiri Sherpa at about 1 pm. Summiters returned to C4 at 4 pm. All four Sherpas reached C4 from C2. BC to Lukla by helicopter on May 27.

  Comment: Change the Sat phone permits and radio permits to encourage better communications. Allow helicopter to only charter in/out from Lobuche at the highest.


expid: EVER03169
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Ungdi Tshering Sherpa
sponsor: First Differently-abled Sherpa Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Tengboche->Dugla->BC
bcdate: 2003-04-19
smtdate: 2003-05-11
termdate: 2003-05-24
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to bad weather and lack of Sherpa support
campsites: BC(19/04,5300m),C1(01/05,6100m),C2(02/05,6600m),C3(19/05,7300m),xxx(11,13/05,7900m)
accidents: Frostbite and HAS
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 5300m 
  C1 at 6100m at top of Icefall
  C2 at 6600m at W Cwm
  C3 at 7300m at Lhotse Face
  High point at 7900m at South Col on 11 and 13 May to dump gear (+ 21 May to retrieve).

  Leader Ungdi Tshering reached C2 on May 2 and remained there till he left for C3 on 19th with Mingma (Mingma Dorje) Sherpa. Mingma (Dorje) and Ungdi spent night of 19th at C3. On 20th Ungdi and Mingma went up to 7600m in the morning. When Ungdi met other expedition members coming down from C4, due to storm in up camp, Ungdi and Mingma (Dorje) also descended to C2. On 21st both of them came down to BC and called off the expedition. Ungdi gave up the expedition because two of his Sherpas Mingma (who got frostbite) and other one Thukpa Chiring (got frostbite on left hand) and two remaining Sherpas too were tired. Ungdi thought that it would be difficult to try again.

  Note (1): Highest point for leader Ungdi is 7600m. For Mingma Dorje, Dawa Ongchu, Mingma Thindu the highest point is South Col where all three Sherpas went to deposit their supplies on May 11 and 13.

  Dawa Ongchu went again to South Col on 21st to collect the supplies with Mingma Thindu. For Thukpa high point was yellow band on May 13.

  Frostbite (note 2)
    Mingma Sherpa, toe of right foot, which quickly healed completely.
    Thukpa Chiring left hand's four fingers all black but in early August were healing.

  HAS
    Kasa Dawa Sherpa suffered from HAS while at C2 and sent down to BC.


expid: EVER03170
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: David Pritt
sponsor: Ireland, USA, Adventure Peaks Everest Expedition 2003
countries: Australia, Ireland, USA
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2003-04-05
smtdate: 2003-05-21
termdate: 2003-05-23
termnote: Abandoned at 8600m due to accident
campsites: BC(05/04,5200m),ABC(10/04,6400m),C1(16/04,7000m),C2(??/05,7800m),C3(20/05,8200m),xxx(21/05,8600m)
accidents: Harrod broken leg; Madew frostbite
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  (Intermediate Camp on 9th at about 5900m)
  ABC at North Col.

  May 21: Abuhaider, Harrod and Madew set off around 01:30 hours (NST) from C3. At around 08:30 hours an American (Jay White) slipped and fell pulling on the fixed rope. He in turn pulled off his Sherpa who finally pulled on Harrod (Conan) who fell breaking his left lower leg at 8500m. Harrods leg was splinted with an ice axe. Madew pulled out Harrod helped by a Sherpa. Knowing this over radio Abuhaidar abandoned his climb at 8600m and came down and helped Madew to evacuate Harrod. Harrod had to crawl and hop over 2 km. While Madew and Abuhaidar lifted the injured limb over the rocky terrain at over 8000m and arrived C3 8200m after 10 hours. On same night (21st) Madew realized that his fingers on both hands got frostbite. Russell Brice gave oxygen and advice for evacuation work, Chinese team gave 3 Sherpas to help 2 Sherpas of the expedition. From C2 Royal Navy (UK) members help to bring down Madew and Harrod. Brice also provided two Sherpas and three more Sherpas from Adventure Peaks. Harrod spent night at 7000m. Then to ABC to BC on 23rd -> CBC on 24th. Evacuated by road to KTM B & B Hospital on 25th. 

  Harrod and Pritt to leave Nepal on June 3 including McGuirk; Madew to leave on May 25; rest of the members on different dates. 

  Second team: James, McGuirk and Pritt reached up to 7400m on May 20 and decided to return to ABC - tired.

  Hired:
    Ang Sarki Sherpa (24-5-61), Ghat, Chaurikharka-6, Solu, Manaslu 97
    Phurba Ridar Bhote (1958), Chepuwa-2, Sankhuwasabha, 2002 Everest summit
    Rizin Bhote (26-6-1967), Chepuwa-2, Sankhuwasabha
    Anil Bhattarai (1971), Hang Dewa-6, Taplejung
    Surendra Gurung (10/11/73), Bhewang-2, Taplejung


expid: EVER03167
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Josu Feijoo
sponsor: Independent climber on Everest
bcdate: 2003-04-29
smtdate: 2003-04-30
termdate: 2003-05-12
termnote: Abandoned at 7450m due to strong wind
campsites: BC(15/04),C1(20/04,6100m),C2(22/04,6400m),C3(29/04,7255m),xxx(30/04,7450m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Very bad weather, always wind, wind, on face very hard ice. Abandoned attempt on 30 April because of wind and down to BC. At BC were 2 friends whom he invited to come (were from his sponsor), so when learned at BC they not feeling well and wanted to leave, he agreed to go because "they were my responsibility." Friends too tired to leave BC for 10 days.


expid: EVER03116
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Rosa Maria Fernandez
sponsor: Independent climber
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2003-04-11
smtdate: 2003-05-20
termdate: 2003-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 8500m due to very strong wind
campsites: BC(11/04,5300m),C1(17/04,6000m),C2(21/04,6500m),C3(25/04,7500m),C4(19/05,7900m),xxx(20/05,8500m)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  C4 at South Col
  High point at below Balcony.

  First attempt: On May 20 left South Col at 21:00 hours, returned to South Col around 01:00 hours of 21st due to storm. 

  Second Attempt: On 25th left South Col at 20:00 hours, reached up to 8200m, but very cold and very strong wind, so returned to South Col. To BC on 26th. 

  Team returned to KTM on 28th and leaves Nepal 30th on 31st.

  Dawa Chiri Sherpa (2023-11-8), Kurima VDC-9, Solukhumbu
    Everest South Pillar 2000 - Danish
    Everest North 2002 - S Korea
    Makalu 1999 - UK
    Dhaulagiri 1999 - Japan
    Sishapangma 2003 - Mexico


expid: EVER03123
peakid: EVER
year: 2003
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Vijay Singh Thakur
countries: Bhutan, Nepal
approach: Standard
bcdate: 2003-04-08
smtdate: 2003-05-21
smttime: 1245
termdate: 2003-05-25
campsites: BC(08/04,5200m),ABC(12/04,6700m),C1(16/04,7300m),C2(03/05,7900m),Smt(21/05)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  May 21: Prakash, Kushang and Nadre left C2 at 00:05 hours. Summit by Kushang and Nadre at 12:30 hours IST (12:45 NST), stayed about 10 minutes, back to C2 at 18:30 hours. Next day to ABC. 

  Prakash went up to Second Step where he had to wait for more than an hour. Prakash felt very cold then went down to BC. Conan Harrod, who broke the leg, was before him. The expedition had second team to summit but called off the attempt due to short supply of oxygen and other supplies. 

  Their tents at North Col were damaged by storm. Pradhan had headache and left ABC with Ang Norbu Sherpa on May 15 for KTM. Dhami went up to C1 at 7300m. On 22nd [April] all members went up to 7000m except Ang Norbu Sherpa.


expid: HCHI03101
peakid: HCHI
year: 2003
route1: W Face-SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Koo Kyoung-Mo
sponsor: 2003 Korean Student Alpine Federation Hungchi Expedition
ascent1: 2nd
approach: Namche->Gokyo->Ngojumba Glacier
bcdate: 2003-03-31
smtdate: 2003-04-24
termdate: 2003-04-26
accidents: Nothing
achievment: New route
agency: NE-KO Treks
campsites:
  BC(31/03,4800m),ABC(03/04,5055m),C1(09/04,5616m),C2(11/04,5831m),C3(21/04,6010m),C4(24/04,6266m),Smt(24/04)

routememo:
  BC at 4800m west side of Gyuba Tshonsche Lake
  ABC at 5055m east side of lake
  C1 at 5616m SW Ridge
  C2 at 5831m SW Ridge
  C3 at 6040m SW Ridge
  C4 at 6266m SW Ridge 

  Difficult rock climb from ABC to C1, very steep (70-80 degrees) and overhung; fixed 600m rope here. Difficult again from C4 to top where was snow wall of 90 degree and overhanging part: fixed 400m rope here. Also had fixed rope on blue ice just before C2 and mixed snow and blue ice above C2 to big rock subsidiary peak between C2 and C3.

  All camp altitudes by GPS: summit 6666m, mountain 7020m given by HMG.


expid: HCHI03102
peakid: HCHI
year: 2003
route1: S Face-SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Takashi Shiro
sponsor: Osaka Eiho Alpine Club Hungchi Expedition 2003
ascent1: 1st
approach: Namche->Gokyo->Ngojumba Glacier
bcdate: 2003-04-01
smtdate: 2003-04-19
smttime: 1210
termdate: 2003-04-21
campsites: BC(01/04,5000m),ABC(03/04,5200m),C1(08/04,6000m),C2(12/04,6300m),C3(17/04,6600m),Smt(19/04)
achievment: 1st ascent
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Ropes fixed by this team:

               Over snow and ice         Over rock (thicken)

  ABC-C1             1000m                       150m
  C1-C2              1400m                        - 
  C2-C3              1000m                        -
  C2-top              400m                       350m
  Totals             3800m                       500m

  Koreans fixed 2000m ropes and used Japanese elsewhere on their route ABC to ridge and then in places along route.

  Climb difficult "looks so easy, but many difficulties" on rock and ice sections and each season different.

  Summiters left Japanese and Nepalese flags on summit buried in snow.


expid: HIML03101
peakid: HIML
year: 2003
route1: NW Face (same as 2002 Spain autumn)
nation: Spain
leaders: Inigo Loyola
sponsor: Basque Himlung Himalaya Expedition
ascent1: 6th,7th
bcdate: 2003-04-07
smtdate: 2003-04-18
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2003-05-23
campsites: BC(07/04,4850m),C1(09/04,5350m),C2(16/04,5950m),C3(17/04,6350m),Smt(18,20/04)
agency: Sea to Summit Trekking
routememo:
  BC at 4850m at grass beside stream on NW of mountain
  C1 at 5350m at end/top of one moraine at start of glacier
  C2 at 5950m top of glacier
  C3 at 6350m NW Face on ledge at base icy summit.

  From C3 up hard ice face not technically difficult but dangerous if you slip. Left C3 4:00 pm and on top 12:30 pm and at 5:00 pm in C3 to sleep. 20 April left C3 4:00 pm and on top at 4:00 pm and return C3 at 9:00 pm in dark but had headlamps, slow and tired. Fell into crevasses between C1 and top and each member fell in but not hurt.

  Pereda went up to C1 only because of headache and stomach trouble.


expid: JANU03101
peakid: JANU
year: 2003
route1: N Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Erhard Loretan
sponsor: Swiss Jannu Expedition 2003
bcdate: 2003-03-27
smtdate: 2003-05-13
termdate: 2003-05-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to too small team and falling rock and ice
campsites: BC(27/03,4600m),C1(02/04,5400m),C2(14/04,6600m),xxx(13/05,7200m)
agency: Adventure Thamserku
routememo:
  BC at 4600m Khumbukarna Glacier due north of Sobithongie Peak
  C1 at 5400m top of first pillar, 1000m-high pillar
  C2 at 6600m top of "little farmfield" above a rib a mixed rock and ice
  High point at left side of a rib.

  Entire route quite steep 55-80 degrees; 80 degrees on pillar below 6600m and below rib above the pillar; 200m if this 80-degree section of mixed rock and ice. Fixed nearly 2000m of rope on almost entire route from 4800m to 7200m. Lot of wind. Stopped attempt at 7200m because too small team on such very hard ice, very dangerous from rockfall and ice falling and needed to be careful constantly that rope had not been broken: don't go without helmets there [this team wore them]. 13 May were waiting to go up from 7200m to go up at night but windstorm came up and decided safer to go down. Down to C1 that night instead and climb finished.

  Left BC about 15 May (estimate).


expid: KANG03101
peakid: KANG
year: 2003
nation: UK
leaders: Alan Hinkes
termnote: Abandoned before reaching BC due to illness
agency: Himalayan High Country Treks
routememo:
  Flew to Taplejung 3 April and trekked towards BC up Srojan Khola to Tseram. Arrived at Tseram on 9 April, having felt badly: very sore throat, difficult breathing from 7 April. Ill for 2 weeks total. Stayed until late 10th when decided needed helicopter evacuation and called a trekking agent friend to send helicopter. 11th April flew to KTM and climb called off. Too weak to walk out and had no Sherpas or cook boy with him. This his 27th attempt on 8000er.


expid: KANG03102
peakid: KANG
year: 2003
route1: SW Face
nation: USA
leaders: Gary Pfisterer
sponsor: International Kangchenjunga Expedition
countries: Australia, Netherlands, UK
bcdate: 2003-04-16
smtdate: 2003-05-12
termdate: 2003-05-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to lack of rope and manpower
campsites: BC(16/04,5400m),C1(21/04,6200m),C2(26/04,6800m),C3(12/05,6900m),xxx(12/05,6900m)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  BC at normal site
  C2 at base of 2nd icefall
  C3 at 3/4 of way to 2nd icefall.

  C2 only, 100m above C1 because route leads over a hump and across a plateau to base of second icefall so not much higher than C2. Gear carried to 6900m on 27 April and left in tent of Italian by 2 members and down to C1; had been fixing ropes at some time. Took 2000m of rope assuming others would have put in some also, but they were climbing alpine style and had not brought very little, so this expedition ran out of rope at C3's 6900m. Needed 500m more but probably team too small and no combined efforts of others climbing efforts. Others failures probably due this too and would have probably not have had such bad frostbite. C3 actually slept in 12 May only to bring down used gear because knew weren't going to succeed; would have reached another camp. Weather bad with week of wind and occasional snowfall, so not much opportunity to make progress. Quit because not enough manpower and gear.

  Vrijlandt had 4 bottles taken to C2, but not high enough to use.


