# exped

expid: ANN113301
peakid: ANN1
year: 2013
route1: S Face
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Ueli Steck
sponsor: Annapurna South Face Expedition 2013
countries: USA
bcdate: 2013-09-21
smtdate: 2013-10-09
smttime: 0100
termdate: 2013-10-11
campsites: BC(21/09,4100m),ABC(24/09,5000m),C1(30/09,6100m),Biv1(08/10,6800m),Smt(09/10)
agency: Royal Orchid Treks
routememo:
  Ueli Steck climbed the South Face almost entirely alone. Bowie arrived at BC on 22 September, a day after Steck had arrived there, on 30 September went up to the small tent Steck had already pitched at 6100m, descended to BC on 2 October, on the 7th moved to the bergschrund, on the 8th returned to BC, and then waited there for Steck to complete his climb while watching him through the long lens on his camera.

  Meanwhile Steck, from ABC, crossed the glacier at the foot of the face and started up it: on 1 October he reached 6100m, pitched a small tent there, thus establishing C1, on the 2nd he climbed up to 6500m and went down to BC.

  A few days of bad weather intervened, then on the 6th he was back in ABC, stayed there two nights waiting for avalanching to stop, and on the 8th at 5:30 am he moved to the bergschrund, went back to ABC, and finally set off up the mountain to C1, left the camp with only what he himself needed: a tiny tent, a sleeping bag, 60m of rope, a few ice screws and pitons, and some dry food. He climbed up the face to 6950m, but there was no place to bivouac so he went down to 6800m in a crevasse for shelter from the strong wind that had blown up. He now took up with him only a headlamp, batteries and a short rope, but no backpack.

  At 6:00 pm he started up the face and simply kept going till he reached the summit at 1:00 am of the 9th. He spent two minutes on the top, was back in C1, where he heated some water, and returned to ABC at 3:00 pm. He stayed the night there after drinking tea and whiskey and then descend to BC, where he took a shower in his tent.

  Steck described conditions on the face as "perfect": hard snow and not much exposed rock. His new line of ascent was between the Bonington route on the west and the Japanese route on the east. At about 7900m he joined the Bonington route. He had set a speed record and accomplished it in a solo ascent.


  Email from Don Bowie to Elizabeth Hawley - 24 Feb 2013

  Earlier this year Ueli Steck and I exchanged a number of emails hatching plans to attempt a bold line directly up the south face of Annapurna I. Both of us had attempted Annapurna by the south face twice before on separate expeditions, for me the first in 2006 with a strong Polish/Slovak team, and then again in 2008 with a small international group including Inaki Ochoa before he died tragically near 7500m. While Ueli's prior attempts were made on the south face proper, mine took place on indirect variations near its eastern flank - perhaps more correctly the east ridge. Having spent two prior seasons on the east ridge, I knew that despite its somewhat complex approach and high exposure to avalanche danger, climbing Annapurna by the east ridge was well within my personal climbing limitations and would be an excellent alternative for Ueli and I in 2013 if the direct line up the south face was not feasible. I had some idea what the south face direct was like, and was certainly willing to give it look, especially with Ueli as a partner. Still, I knew that any route up the central section of the face would be a tough undertaking.

  On September 20th, filmmaker Jonah Matthewson and I finally arrived in Pokhara, Nepal after 4 long days of travelling from Bishop, California. Ueli warmly greeted us in the Hotel Barahi lobby, where we also met the photography dynamic duo Dan and Jamine Patitucci, who would also accompany us on the expedition. I met Dan and Janine some years prior when they lived in Bishop before moving to Switzerland, and it was great to see Ueli again since the last time we partnered on our 2011 Shishapangma Cho Oyu Everest expedition.

  It was great to be back in the Annapurna sanctuary again even though the memories and reminders of those tragic days in 2008 surrounding Inaki's rescue attempt and death were ever present. After arriving in base camp on the 22nd of Sept, I immediately came down with the proverbial Nepali chest infection that plagues me literally everytime I arrive in Nepal. Wanting to heal up a bit before going higher, Ueli set off alone to find a good spot for advanced base camp at the foot of the wall, while I recovered below. On Sept 26th I was finally feeling better and made the climb up to ABC with Jonah and Ueli. After a few days acclimatizing there at 5000m, Ueli and I decided to venture onto the face and try to establish C1. The two of us retraced the route that Ueli had flagged up the glacier to the bottom of the wall, climbed a short-pitched of vertical rock, and continued climbing up the right side of a subtle rock spur splitting the central face. In a few hours we discovered a descent ledge perched atop an unlikely rock outcropping near 6100m, and immediately went to work hacking out a small platform to pitch our tent. Strewn along the spur we found pieces of old, munky, 11 mm static rope and used a few lengths to anchor the tent in place.

  Ueli and I spent two nights acclimatizing at C1, and we watched out the tent door as the sea of clouds engulfed the entire sanctuary below all the while listening to the disturbing sound of rocks careening down the face above. I have to admit that observing the rockfall during those 2 days was quite intimidating - if not downright scary - even though our camp was safely perched on the spur where few rocks could reach us. I felt that the extremely mild temperatures would have to drop significantly for the face to soldify into safer condition.

  The second morning we took down the tent, stashed some gear, and down-climbed the lower face to the glacier. After securing our food and supplies at ABC, we descended the grassy slopes to the moraine and made the long trek back to the base camp. There we enjoyed a few days rest while waiting for another favorable weather window. In base camp Ueli and I spoke about the strategy of our summit push, and agreed that in order to cover the huge vertical distance in the shortest time possible we would have to climb quickly and unroped up most of the lower face to the bottom of the rock buttress which we guessed was around 7300m. After considering this for a few days, I knew that climbing unroped up and down that amount of terrain, at that altitude and difficulty, would be pushing the limits of my personal ability, and told Ueli how I felt. We talked about my concerns and Ueli was gracious but encouraging, asking if I'd have one more look at the face before making any decisions, to which I agreed. It was really cool to be able to communicate honestly about such things as friends do.

  Oct 6th we climbed back up to ABC, along with Dan, Janine and Jonah, with the intention of giving the face another try during a short weather window. We woke up early the morning of Oct 8th packed up our gear, and climbed quickly to the bergshrund at the foot of the face. Dan and Jonah accompanied us up the glacier, and as we waited for them to reach our stance Ueli and I had another discussion about things. Looking up the face from the bergshrund I reiterated my hesitancy to solo terrain above C1. Ueli then got that look in his eye the one I've become all too familiar with having been on 3 other 8000m expeditions with him. It was time, and he was going for it alone. I gave him some of my food, an extra bottle of water and the 5mm x 60m rope I was carrying. He packed up the extra gear, smiled and turned toward the face, climbing up the snow cone toward the vertical rock step: "See you, ah?"

  The three of us then backed away from the lower face toward the edge of the debris fields to gain a safer stance, where I insisted we wait until Ueli reached C1. We all took pictures and video of Ueli climbing up the lower wall, and in an hour and a half or so he crested the rock spur, traversing left at the height of C1. Once I knew he had safely reached our stash of gear and the tent platform, Dan, Jonah and I descended the glacier back to ABC.

  By the time we arrived at ABC Ueli had already left C1 and reached the second rock band on the face climbing up very fast and although just a tiny spec on the wall we could clearly see him with the naked eye. I unpacked my gear and leaned my sleeping pad against a rock, sitting down with a small stash of food, some tea, and my camera, to watch the action on the face above. All day we watched as Ueli ascended toward the main buttress headwall. By later afternoon he neared the bottom of the headwall, but the summit winds had picked up dramatically and spindrift avalanches began streaming down the face everywhere. We could see Ueli through the 500m lens and Jonah was able to periodically capture short video clips through breaks in the clouds. Through the big lens we watched as the avalanches grew larger in size and frequency, spilling down all over the face from above, and for the first time my anxiety increased for Ueli's safety. I knew that if the winds remained as they were near the summit perhaps 70-80 km/h or more, there was no way he would be able to reach to the top.

  Just before the sun set behind the Fang we watched as Ueli gained the headwall and disappeared into the rocks just right of the bottom of the central "Lafaille" couloir. A few minutes later he reappeared again and began down climbing to a small band of ice features, descending around 50-100 vertical meters. He then stopped, and through the lens we could clearly see him hacking at the face with his tools. I explained to Dan and Jonah that in 2008 we had found a crevasse at 7000m on our route near the eastern flank of face, and after a little exploring discovered it widened below into a room large enough for three tents to be pitched despite the steep angle of the external spindrift. I presumed Ueli had found something similar and was widening the entrance hole to get inside.

  Darkness fell on the wall and after losing sight of Ueli I suggested that he had either hunkered down for the night to descend in the morning, or had found a safe place to wait out the spindrift avalanches caused by the summit winds before continuing up. We ate dinner, retreated to our tents, and fell asleep as clouds shrouded the face.

  I woke up a few times during the night, the first around midnight and peered out my tent at the face above. In the darkness I could see the clouds had lifted and the summit wind banners were much smaller and the blowing snow had declined dramatically. I also noted that temperatures were significantly colder than our prior trip up the face. I felt much better about Ueli's safety and fell back asleep.

  The next morning I awoke just after first light to the sound of activity outside the tent, hearing Tengi's voice (who had come up from base camp to the day before) and Dan discussing if they could see Ueli. I heard them say they could see him down climbing, so I immediately got dressed and exited the tent. Once my eyes adjusted to the brightness of the morning I was able to see him descending the open ice and snowfield below the headwall, and I felt the last of the lingering nerves and heaviness lift from my chest. The skies above were clear and blue, and there were no signs of blowing snow or wind banners. Dan, Tengi and I quickly packed some food drinks and our cameras and headed up the glacier towards the face. A few hours later, just as we approached the halfway point on the lower glacier, I caught an orange flash of color around a corner, and a few seconds after saw Ueli appear on a serac platform just above me. He dropped down to my stance and immediately grasped, "We can go home now. Summit." I laughed loudly as we did the manly hug back-pounding thing, then I uttered a few friendly expletives and congratulated him for such an incredible achievement. I took out my camera and shot as much video as I could (stay tuned, we have a lot of great video from the expedition) while he sat in the snow drinking a coke, munching on food and sharing details about the climb. It was a very cool moment, and I couldn't have been more proud for Ueli.

  I want to apologize for not sending out any dispatches from the expedition, but it was part of our joint strategy to remain focused on the task at hand and to keep the expedition streamlined, simple, and somewhat understated. Despite not climbing above 6100m myself (or attempting our alternate route) it was very cool to have witnessed Ueli's climb, and I feel quite content with the decision I made regarding my own personal limitations. I'm thrilled for Ueli and for what he was able to accomplish, and comfortably embrace the fact that climbing Annapurna in the same manner he did is simply beyond my ability. Still, Annapurna will remain in place, magnificent, elusive and savage and perhaps on another occasion I will once again have the chance to lock horns with her.

  Success climbing the highest mountains is not found by achieving the summit, but in the stories told by those who encounter a certain confrontation with themselves found only under the shadow of the summits. What matters most is what we carry down with us, and the changes forged within. If we return unchanged or hide away our stories the mountains still remain as they are: rock, snow, ice, cold and disregard toward those who would conquer.


  Ueli Steck's website:

  Since our arrival our teamwork was perfect. We have installed our ABC at 5000 meters. Tenji and Nima always brought us some fresh food up there. The weather was great until October 3, 2013. Then right at my birthday October 4, 2013 - the weather became bad and we had a reason to go back to our base camp.

  A couple of days later, it was rainy, we went back to ABC. Don followed up later on. He wanted to wait until the weather would get better. It has snowed quite a lot and we decided to wait another day. We observed the wall. We wanted to know that was going on the wall. We all spent together the day. The weather was beautiful at ABC. The sun worked all day long so that the snow could harden.

  On October 9, 2013 at 05:30 am we started. Dan Patitucci and Jonah, Don Bowie and I. We moved to the foot of the face. Dan Patitucci and Jonah are responsible for the pictures.

  Finally all just fit. The weather was ok, but the wind was quite strong. Don Bowie, my partner, decided at the bergschrund not to enter the face. He said that it was technically too demanding to climb the face without rope. And this is the basic premise for such a route. From the bergschrund I climbed alone (5650m).

  At the first moment it was difficult for me to switch on soloing. But the good conditions helped to quickly get focused on the climbing. Once more everything just fit. At 6100m we had placed some equipment. The weeks before we had acclimatized ourselves in the face and we had placed rope, tent, cooker and something to eat up there.

  I packed the tent and cooker in my backpack. The rope I left ther, since I had a 6mm reep rope with me, which I took with me from the ABC. I left the sleeping bag because of weight reasons together with gas and food an existing rope and fixed it at a hook.

  The ascent to the headwall was relatively easy. From 6600 meters on I had wind and spindrifts. I climbed until below the headwall. Here I wanted to build my tent and wait. I had different possibilities. To wait until the wind got less and I could continue to climb or I would descend the day after.

  Since I did not find a protected place I started to descend. 100 meters below I found a crevice. It turned out to be a perfect bivouac place and I could place my tent sheltered from wind and spindrifts. Now I ate and drank a lot. In the meantime the sun had gone. And everything calmed down. This I noticed also the evening before from ABC. And it was again exactly the same. Fast it darkened and it was calm. This was my chance.

  I was sure that the following day the wind would turn on again. So this was my only chance to reach the summit during the night. The headwall was a line of ice and firn. So it would be possible to the way in the night.

  Approx. one hour after I reached the bivouac I continued my climbing. During short passages the ice firn was quite thin and couple of times I had to climb in the rock. The steepness was surprisingly not really vertical, only a couple of uplifts were vertical. so it was the ideal solo terrain. As long as I could climb I was extremely efficient. This I had in my mind all the time. The thin air at 7000m is not yet death zone. At this height I could move quite easily. Only the cold was a problem.

  A couple of hours before at daylight I wanted to photograph the headwall in order to have an overview picture at night. A was hidden by a spindrift. I could not only get grasp my ice gear in order not to get knocked out on the wall. In this way I lost one of my down gloves and my camera was thrown out of the wall. Now I had to climb with my finger gloves. The down glove which was left I wore once my left hand and then at my right hand - depending on the cold of each hand.

  The headwall presented itself shorter that I thought. Difficult to say how many pitches, since I did not use the rope. Instinctively I was at the upper and quite fast. Here I realized for the first time, where I really was and what this would mean. Now I was just a beat against the wind.

  Step by step I moved on. I kept telling me "Just fight, just fight." Again and again. When I reached the summit ridge I could hardly believe it. It was night, the sky full of stars and the ridge going down in front of me.

  With my altimeter I checked everything very carefully. I followed the ridge and I knew; I was on highest point.

  I spent not even 5 minutes up there before I started to descend. I was full under tension. My goal was to reach the bergschrund. Then everything would be fine.

  Tenji, Don and Dan meet me at the glacier. They had followed me the entire time while was climbing. Now they came towards me. Tenji had a Coke, bread and an apple for me.

  It is simply great. I made it. Everything is over now. From now the others make the decisions. The tension get less.

  On October 10, 2013 at 09:30 am we all are back at base camp.


  Email from Tenji Sherpa (Royal Orchid Trekking Agency) - 27 Feb 2014

  Today French journalist Jolly took interview with me in Kathmandu about your expedition Everest and Annapurna. She said in Germany some media don't believe about Annapurna summit so she was searching some proof in Nepal and she said she will publish one book in September and I assured to her Ueli summited Annapurna there is no doubt and I saw light near the summit about 200m and also our kitchen staff Ngim Dawa saw the headlight when climbing and descending because our kitchen staff he checked many time in night and he said he saw your headlight near the top when climing and descending and I told to her about all the fact and she found you have summited Annapurna. I was surprised when she said about it and she asked me question: say something about Ueli? I told hime he is one of the fastest solo climber in the world and I haven't seen such aclimber before who is very technical, strong mind, speed and very confident and also I told her Ueli climbed Everest without oxygen and other many technical mountain like Cholache and many more.


  Andreas Kubin from German climbing magazine Bergsteigen.

  Kubin: People doubt your solo ascent of the south face of Annapurna, which is regarded as a quantum leap in mountaineering circles - as you don't have any proof as you have lost your camera on the mountain. How do you cope with such claims?

  Ueli: Of course I would like to have some proof, however, this was not my priority when I was climbing the wall. While I was climbing I did not think about what could happen afterwards. I wanted to climb the wall and I wanted to survive the climb. I did have my camera but unfortunately I lost it.  

  From the very beginning I said that I did not have a summit photo. I have told what I experienced and that is all I can do.

  Kubin: You wrote to me: "I was on my own and I don't have any proof. I know what I have done and nobody can take that away from me." Is the experience and the knowledge of a climber enough to verify such an extraordinary achievement? You are a professional mountaineer and you have to verify your achievements. You can earn your money with it.

  Climbing-wise my dream has come true. I will never be able to prove whether I was on the summit or not. The fact is that I am the only one who knows that I summited Annapurna I. It was a liberating experience. If someone wants to doubt it, they can. It is not for me to say how a climber has to prove his climb. It is for others to judge. So far, there have not been any official guidelines on how to document your successful ascent. In mountaineering, we usually act to the best of our knowledge and belief. I am aware of the fact that there have always been discussions about the successful climbs since the beginning of mountaineering and if it is about money, fame and honour the perception changes. Experiences and impressions cannot be lived through a photo or a film. I can only experience it if I do it myself.

  On the face, I made my decisions without thinking about having to prove anything to anyone. I was exposed and the only important thing for me up there was to survive. In an adventure you cannot plan everything. If this were possible it would no longer be an adventure.


  Article of Patricia Jolly for the French magazine "Le Monde" - 15 March 2014

  The news should have delighted Ueli Steck. His "first" solo of October 2013 in the south face of Annapurna (8091m), completed in a record time of 28 hours, is part of the 5 ascents that are selected for the Piolets d'Or, organized between Chamonix and Courmayeur (Italy) from March 26th until March 29th. This great mass of mountaineering celebrates "the taste for adventure, audacity, the spirit of exploration" and praises "the beauty of an act, individual or collective."

  This criteria were previously honoured by the Swiss alpinist, 38 yrs, who had already been awarded in 2009, together with his fellow countryman Simon Anthamatten for the first ascent of the north face of Tengampoche (6500m) in Nepal. Alas, since the very end of his autumn season in the Himalaya, some nasty rumours have spreaded the doubt over the veracity of his achievement.

  In this circle, critics towards this atypical climber are not new. To set upon the summit like an Olympic discipline that is timed, and to train like a marathon runner with coaches for both mental and physical strength, he has owned the surname "the Swiss machine." The younger carpenter who never intended to be a high mountain guide and wanted "just to practice some sport" has succeeded in making a living out of his speciality, this via the channel of a dozen partners, that is, so far, the case for only a dozen alpinists in the world.

  Randomly, his detractors are reproaching him for the absence of eye-witnesses, for the failure of camera and altimeter, even for forgetting to switch on the GPS. This for the solo attempts as well as for the records which has become his speciality. Else in April 2013, he and his two partners have been involved in a violent brawl (causes and mistakes have been shared) with some Sherpas.

  Christian Strommdorff, Himalayist, vice-president of the Syndicate National des Guides de Montagne (SNGM), member of the Comite technique et de pilotage of the Piolets d'Or and the president of the Groupe de Haute Montagne, has received numerous emails that listed "the inconsistencies" of Ueli Steck's achievement. These mailings are mostly coming from German journalists, mountain guides, alpinists. "These inquiries are logical because Ueli Steck is a professional alpinist and, although there is no money involved in the Piolets d'Or, winning this award can generate commercial and media fallouts" explains Christian Strommdorff, who has met with the Swiss for two hours in February. "He told me right away that he did not have any substantial proof of his ascent, and that one is free to believe him or not", he adds.

  The Charter of the Piolets d'Or does not stipulate at all the necessity to provide the proof of a claimed ascent. Ueli Steck admits however "what is happening is a little bit my fault, I am not someone that likes to show show off because climbing on mountains does not bring anything to humanity. So, I have always done what seemed right to me: I give details to whoever is asking me, and so far no one has reproached me, in such a virulent manner, for not producing a proof. No, I have no photo of Annapurna because I have lost my camera and one glove in a small avalanche. At that time, I had accepted the idea for the first time that I was going to die. But it did not happen and I kept on climbing on adrenaline."

  At the beginning of March in Kathmandu, some Nepalese team members of the Steck-expedition confirm his version.

  Ngima Dawa, assistant cook, who was working for the Swiss alpinist for the time, has been contacted by phone in his village in Solukhumbu. Laurence Shakya, based in Kathmandu for the last 30 years, had translatd his talk in French, as he spoke in Nepali language: "We had no radio contact with him, explained the assistant cook, but from the base camp, with the backing, I was able to follow his ascent because of his headlight. Around 11:30 pm, he was just below the summit (that Steck claims to have reached an hour and a half later) but I cannot estimate exactly what was the altitude. I woke up at 2:30 am and I understood that he was descending because the light went downwards." Tenji Sherpa, base camp expedition manager, is providing other details. Ueli Steck was not supposed to do the ascent alone but his partner (the Canadian Don Bowie) first fell sick, then the falling of rocks and the danger of avalanche disturbed him and he renounced to climb. Yet, Ueli decided to go, he told: "I'll go and see." From the advanced base camp, that is closer to the face than the base camp, we could not see him continously. Around 6 pm, he disappeared for about one hour, that's the time when shielded himself from the wind inside a hole before climbing again. We could see his headlight then. I saw him at midnight just 200m below the summit. Don and myself, we went to sleep until around 4 am and, we both saw him descending. We went towards him. His face was very red, he looked very tired but (he seemed) happy and very excited.

  The roped teawm composed of the French guides Stephane Benoist and Yannick Graziani, also victorius on the Beghin-Lafaille path with some variations, ten days after Steck also advocate in favour of the Swiss. The latter sent them an SMS after the conquest: "Tonight I did the summit in solo". Mr Benoist and Mr Graziani are joking about the detractors that are putting forward the fact that they found no trace of Ueli's presence when they made the ascent to the summit after him: in the meantime, it had snowed up to 60 cm. "Ueli's objective when gets upon a face is to reach the top and come back alive." explains Stephane Benoist. "The rest all the worries of the people down there is secondary. To my knowledge, his career is perfectly consistent". Among other records, he holds the one of the north face ascent of Cervin, of Eiger and Grandes Jorasses). "He tackles the mountain in a very professional manner. He went alone lighter than us, he benefitted from good weather conditions and he is simply better. I strongly believe that Ueli has reached the summit, adds Yannick Graziani, he just needs to understand that he has chosen the "timer gap" and, as a professional alpinist, it is essential that he provides some evidence of what he is accomplishing."


  Award Piolets d'Or 2014 (announced late March 2014) 
    Annapurna I South Face solo autumn 2013)

  Altitude 8091m, 2500m of climing, M4/MF, up to 85 degrees, 28 hours of climbing.

  After reaching the bergschrund, Ueli Steck had to accept that his climbing partner thought the risk too high. In climbing the face alone, Ueli subjected himself to maximum exposure. Despite not knowing what was awaiting him above 6500m, he managed to complete the unfinished route of Pierre Beghin and Jean-Christophe Lafaille (of 1992). Achieving a first ascent on this wall, climbing alone, in very rapid alpine style seems to be a new dimension in high altitude climbing.

  The ascents we have chosen represent two extremes in the management of risk. Raphael Slawinsky and Ian Welsted planned their ascent on K6 West carefully, with fresh never to minimize rock fall and climbing difficulties, and planned their days so they could get enough rest at bivouacs to maintain strength. After the difficult approach through the glacier they chose the safest, most esthetic line through the wall. Only during the last part of their descent did they face rockfall due to the melting snow.

  In contrast in soloing the south face of Annapurna Ueli Steck accepted a great risk. For 28 hours he maintained absolute concentration, knowing that one false step would cause his demise. Ueli described himself as climbing very close to his limit. Nevertheless Ueli minimized the remaining risk: he took advantage of unique optimal ice conditions over the rock band, he decided to climb during the night to minimize rockfall and take advantage of lower winds, and he decided to continue only as long as he felt above to climb down. He knew he had to descend the rock band before the sun came out - if the neve covered passages melted, it would be very difficult to descend.

  Having in mind that the other three ascents are outstanding achievements, too, we feel that the first ascent of K6 West and the solo ascent of the Annapurna South face are, in their own way, representative examples of the state of the art of mountaineering today.


  Annapurna, South Face, Second Ascent

  The jury decided to award a special Brotherhood of the Rope mention for the second ascent of the Steck route by Stephane Benoist and Yannick Graziani. They found much more difficult conditions (M5+M6) through the rock band due neve melt since the Steck ascent forcing these two accomplished climbers to spend from 16-26 October on the face. Stephane fell ill high on the face, making the descent very difficult. None the less, they managed to return alive, demonstrating that a partnership can be greater than the sum of its parts.


expid: CHOY13304
peakid: CHOY
year: 2013
route1: NW side
nation: Austria
leaders: Johann Wenzl
sponsor: Austrian Cho Oyu Expedition 2013
approach: Kodari->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2013-09-08
smtdate: 2013-09-26
smttime: 0845
termdate: 2013-09-28
campsites: BC(08/09,4800m),IC(10/09,5200m),ABC(11/09,5700m),C1(13/09,6300m),C2(20/09,7100m),Smt(26/09)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Summit: 26 Sept by Wenzl at 10 am CST (8:45 NST)

  Wenzl started his summit push from C2 at midnight (NST) of 25 Sept. He got to the summit at 10 am (CST). He stayed on the summit for 30 minutes, then descended to C2 where he arrived at 11:30 am (NST) and continued to ABC at 3 pm (NST). Summit day weather was good. He saw prayer flags on the summit.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


expid: MAKA13301
peakid: MAKA
year: 2013
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Jacob Schmitz
sponsor: Argentine-American Makalu Expedition 2013
countries: Argentina
approach: By air to Tumlingtar->Makalu BC
bcdate: 2013-09-02
smtdate: 2013-09-18
termdate: 2013-09-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to too much snow
campsites: BC(02/09,4800m),ABC(03/09,5200m),C1(07/09,5800m),C2(17/09,6700m),C3(18/09,7400m),xxx
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
routememo:
  The team attempted the normal NW Ridge route in general, but they took a shortcut from C1 at the bottom of the West Face through an ice field. Between C1 and C2 there was a lot of loose snow, and they had to wait for the avalanching to stop. They returned to BC for four days.

  From 17 to 19 September, Satke and Stahringer tried a route that led them to the rock band and then traversed to the normal route to the Makalu La. This effort took them two days. (They slept in C3 on the 18th.)

  On the 19th Stahringer started an avalanche below the Makalu La which took him down 600m and partially buried him. Satke was at the Makalu La; he down-climbed and in one hour dug out his teammate with just his hands. Stahringer was bruised and exhausted, but no bones were broken.

  The next day, the 20th, the others in C2 moved up and joined Satke and Stahringer, helped them to descend to C2 that day and to ABC the following day. All five members stayed in ABC for four days.

  On 25 September, all of them returned to C2, but Garner and Stahringer then went back to ABC. On the 26th snow was falling, so all members retreated to BC, and their bid to climb Makalu was finished. There just was too much snow.


expid: MANA13331
peakid: MANA
year: 2013
route1: NE Face
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Manaslu Expedition 2013
countries: Australia, France, Japan, Nepal, Switzerland, UK, USA
bcdate: 2013-09-02
smtdate: 2013-09-25
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2013-09-28
campsites: BC(02/09,4830m),C1(09/09,5516m),C2(12/09,6336m),C3(18/09,6720m),C4(24/09,7430m),Smt(25/09)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  Brice's planning included an early arrival at BC to give his team plenty of time to acclimatize and get in position to go for the top when the monsoon weather was not a problem. They arrived at BC when they wanted to, on 2 September, and left when they wanted to, on 27 and 28 September. They had perfect weather while they were on the mountain except for one day, 20 September, when it rained. Their helicopter arrival and departure flights operated on their chosen dates -- and they got back to Kathmandu 10 days early.

  Brice attributes his team's success in putting all members on the summit, having no injuries and having no members' early departures, to their having arrived at BC early.

  After acclimatization (going up to a new camp, descending at increasingly higher altitudes), the entire team of 17 members and 13 climbing Sherpas, plus a female Sherpa, Yangji from Khumjung, started their push for the summit from BC to C1 on 21 September, moved up to C2 on the 22nd, to C3 on the 23rd, established C4 on the 24th and summited on the 25th.

  All of them left C4 for the top at 3:00 am on 25 September. They were on the summit between 8:00 and 9:11 am, and all except Sasaki descended all the way to BC between 4:00 and 7:00 pm. The elderly Sasaki, 63 years old, preferred to stop off at C1 for the night and joined the team at BC on the 26th.

  Oxygen was used by all members and Sherpas. The members used it from C3 to the top and down to wherever their supply ran out or they no longer wanted it. The Sherpas followed the same pattern except they started on it in C4.

  Sherpas:
    Fura Chheten, 29/08/90, Phortse, Manaslu X1
    Gyalgen Dorji, 17/02/88, Phortse, Everest X3, Lhotse X3, Manaslu X1
    Lhakpa Nuru, 18/06/80, Phortse, Everest X9, Lhotse X2, Manaslu X3
    Nawang Tenjing, 20/11/93, Phortse, Everest X1, Manaslu X2
    Ngima Chhiri, 22/04/72, Phortse, Everest X4, Manaslu X3
    Ngima Tenzing, 26/04/91, Phortse, Everest X4, Manaslu X2
    Nima Namgyal, 1983, Khumjung 
    Pasang Ngima, 01/10/92, Phortse, Everest X4, Manaslu X2
    Phurba Tashi, 24/05/71, Khumjung, Cho Oyu X5, Everest X21, Lhotse X1, Manaslu X1
    Sonam Tashi, 18/06/63, Phortse, Everest X1, Manaslu X1
    Son Dorjee, 22/05/63, Phortse, Everest X11, Manaslu X4
    Tashi Tshering, 26/04/77, Khumjung, Everest X4, Lhotse X2, Manaslu X1
    Urken Lundup, 18/01/93, Khumjung
    Yangji Doma, 14/5/80, Khumjung (Sherpani)


expid: HIML13302
peakid: HIML
year: 2013
route1: W Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Paul Boslooper
sponsor: Dutch Himlung Expedition 2013
approach: Bhulbhule->Koto
bcdate: 2013-09-22
smtdate: 2013-09-29
termdate: 2013-10-04
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to fatal avalanche
campsites: BC(22/09,4800m),C1(24/09,5675m),xxx(29/09,6100m)
accidents: Fatal avalanche
agency: Kailash Himalayan Treks
routememo:
  BC  22 Sep  4800m
  C1  24 Sep  5675m	
  HPt 29 Sep  5800m by Boslooper, Mul, Van der Hoff, Vlemmix and Withagan at 10 am.

  Boslooper and Vlemmix were about 10 metres ahead of the other three members of the team. They were standing next to a big crevasse when an avalanche hit at 10:15 am. Boslooper first filmed it, but when he noticed that it was coming towards him, he crouched down in the snow. They both got covered in the snow and Vlemmix ended up underneath Boslooper, but his face was free of snow and he could breathe. Boslooper took about 10 minutes to get out of the snow and then dug out Vlemmix. Lok Bahadur of the Adventure Consultants team was near them and got swept down the slope, but was unharmed apart from having lost his boots.

  Boslooper ascended for about 50 metres to where the Adventure Consultant's (Mark Morrison) team was and realized that Kaji was gone. Morrison started digging and found Kaji's dead body. Boslooper took his clients down to BC, while Morrison stayed up there to try and get the bodies down. Boslooper's team arrived at BC at 3 pm.

  The following day the AC team left by heliopter and Boslooper and his team stayed for another few days. Two members left BC on 2 Oct. On 2 Oct Boslooper went back up to C1 to help bring the bodies [Kaji + two AC Sherpas] down and he and the other two members left BC on 4 Oct.

  Sherpas:
    Kaji Sherpa, Okhaldhunga, Khijiphalate, 2027/9/5


expid: BARU13304
peakid: BARU
year: 2013
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Felix Berg
sponsor: SummitClimb Baruntse Expedition 2013
countries: Australia, Austria, Canada, Finland
bcdate: 2013-10-27
smtdate: 2013-11-04
termdate: 2013-11-06
campsites: BC(27/10,5250m),C1(02/11,6100m),C2(03/11,6300m),Smt(04/11)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  BC at 5250m on east side of lake
  C1 just over West Col
  C2 just below SE Ridge.

  The team trekked from Lukla to Mera Peak, and all members except Attarha and Mylnarczyk reached the summit on 25 October. From Mera they went to Baruntse BC.

  Four members and four Sherpas summited Baruntse. They were Berg, Dornauer, Kuva and Schneider with Chhewang Karma, Gyalzen, Jangbu and Nawang Nuri. They left C2 at 5:00 am on 4 November, reached the summit at 12:30 pm and were back in BC between 5:30 and 6:30 pm that evening.

  They had no problem with the notorious big crevasse across the ridge: it had been completely filled in with well-packed snow and was easily walked across.

  Non-summiting members:

  Attarha, Fromm and Mylnarczyk went to BC with the other members, but did no climbing. Attarha had a chest infection, the other two had no motivation to climb the mountain.

  Hartwein also went to BC, but soon flew by helicopter to Kathmandu because she was homesick.

  The remaining four members, Burkhard and Sabine Felber, Fuch and Parkhouse did climb to 6500m and 7000m on 4 November, but turned back because of the wind and the cold and descended to BC.

  Maczuga only went to BC; he did not feel well and did not climb.

  Sherpas:
    Chhewang Karma, 28/1/89, Patle, Everest X1
    Gyalzen, 25/1/74, Patle, Everest X4
    Jangbu, 24/5/67, Patle, Cho Oyu X4, Everest X8, Lhotse X1
    Nawang Nuri, 15/5/79, Patle, Everest X1, Lhotse X1


expid: BARU13301
peakid: BARU
year: 2013
route1: SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Francis Blunt
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Baruntse Expedition 2013
countries: Australia
approach: See route notes
bcdate: 2013-10-30
smtdate: 2013-11-04
termdate: 2013-11-07
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to bad conditions, lack of acclimatization, lack of time and tiredness
othersmts: Climbed Mera Peak
campsites: BC(30/10,5480m),C1(03/11,6100m),C2(04/11,6400m),xxx(05/11,6600m)
agency: Makalu Adventure
routememo:
  Approach: Lukla, Poyang, Pengyang, Maridigma, Salankhola, Khola Kharka, Kogmadigma, Tagnak, Khare, BC

  Blunt, Staniforth, Phurtemba and Phurba Wangchu climbed up to to 6600m. They had to turn around due to bad snow conditions.

  Heavy snow in BC that made everything delayed. Snow conditions on the mountain were very bad. Barnes and Dowling went up to 6100m (C1).


  From Adventure Peaks website:

  5th November: The team are all back together in Base Camp now after a great effort from Alex to summit Baruntse. Due to an onset of sickness and upset stomach Alex, Francis and the 2 Sherpas turned around at 6600m, but this still gave Alex valuable experience for his future plans.

  4th November: Unfortunately due to an upset stomach and old knee injury 2 of the clients have returned to Base Camp leaving Francis and Alex planning their summit attempt at Camp 1 yesterday. Depending on the wind they plan on setting off around midnight local time. Good luck guys!


expid: BARU13303
peakid: BARU
year: 2013
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Damien Dunn
sponsor: Diplomat Leads Baruntse
countries: USA
othersmts: Summited Mera Peak on 4 Nov
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Did not reach BC. Climb abandoned on 31 Oct due to too much snow on approach.

  Summited Mera Peak on 4 Nov, then returned to Kathmandu from Khare by helicopter on 5 Nov. Oxygen used at Mera Peak high camp for a while. 3 Nepalis accompanied the team on Mera.


expid: GAUR13301
peakid: GAUR
year: 2013
route1: S Face
nation: France
leaders: Jerome Para
sponsor: Gaurishankar Project 2013
approach: Simigaon->Kharka->Tongmalnang Valley
bcdate: 2013-10-01
smtdate: 2013-10-23
smttime: 1600
termdate: 2013-10-25
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to lateness in the day
campsites: BC(01/10,3750m),ABC(20/10,4900m),Biv1(21/10,5900m),Biv2(22/10,6400m),xxx(23/10,6800m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  The team had an an acclimatization trip in Na valley, then had to wait in a long period of bad weather from the 1st of October until the 19th of October. Fortunately, the valley accumulated not too much snow, so the team could start its proper ascent from the 20th of October, where it reached ABC (the approach to the BC and to the ABC are just not at all looking like on the Finn Map's drawing: the lowest part below 3750m (French BC this season) has to be secured in case of hiring porters, and there are steep rock barriers around 4000m, then grass slopes before reaching the ABC).

  From the 21st October, the route started first by conturning from right to left a pillar located on the left side of the kind of main central gully of the whole South Face, then coming back from left to right to join the central gully, climbing it before escaping at the highest part of the face by a right-sided ramp system, with a hook at the end to eventually reach the summit plateau. The team stopped near the extreme South Summit (around 6800m) of this southern plateau. It was the 23rd October at 4 pm. Then the team abseiled down all the night, reaching its ABC at 4 am on the 24th October, then the ABC at 12 am.

  The team roughly estimates the overall grade of the route as extremly difficult (ED grade).

  There were 5 previous attempts of the South Face: 

    3 intended to climb directly up by the proper South Face (last in 2011 by David
    Goettler and Stefan Glowacz, who couldn't climb properly due to the moutain
    conditions; Japanese and Polish before that in the 1980's, the first who 
    abandoned at 6000m due to a fall), 

    2 used partly it whether by the left (South Face to the SW Ridge, first ascent
    by a Yugoslavian team in 1983) or the right (South Face to the SE Ridge, British
    in 1995, with no success) side of the face. 

  This ascent can be considered as the "proper" first one of the South Face.


expid: AMAD13301
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Chris Szymiec
sponsor: Ganesh Adventure Ama Dablam Expedition 2013
countries: USA
approach: Monjo->Namche
bcdate: 2013-10-21
smtdate: 2013-11-02
termdate: 2013-11-04
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(21/10,4600m),C1(28/10,5800m),C2(02/10,6000m),xxx(02/11,6000m)
agency: Himalayan Ascent
routememo:
  Hoskinson, Lewinson, Walsh, Lhakpa, Dendi and Jangbu were at C2 on 2 November planning to go to a higher camp, but due to bad snow conditions the team had to call off the expedition.

  Szymiec suffered from high altitude sickness at C1. He was helicoptered from BC on 30 October. Pervite went up to C1 and that was enough for him and left with Szymiec. Szymiec spent a few days in Kathmandu for his treatment and has already left Nepal.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa 
    Dendi
    Jangbu


expid: AMAD13302
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Jonathan Spitzer
sponsor: Venator 2013 Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Canada
approach: Syangboche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2013-10-17
smtdate: 2013-10-20
termdate: 2013-11-06
termnote: Abandoned at 5500m due to too much snow, poor fitness of clients
campsites: BC(17/10,4700m),ABC(20/10,5500m),xxx(20/10,5500m)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  BC  17 Oct  4700m
  ABC 20 Oct  5500m
  HP  20 Oct  5500m by Spitzer and his two Canadian clients.

  Like so many other teams that season, Spitzer decided to abandon the expedition due to too much snow and dangerous conditions on the mountain. On top of that Spitzer thought his clients were not fit enough for the climb.

  Sirdar:
    Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa


expid: AMAD13303
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Mark Philip Bellamy
sponsor: A Kiwi on Ama Dablam
approach: Flew to Phortse->Pangboche->Dingboche
bcdate: 2013-10-23
smtdate: 2013-10-26
termdate: 2013-10-27
termnote: Abandoned at 5812m due to excessive snow and no fixed ropes
campsites: BC(23/10,4594m),C1(25/10,5400m),xxx(26/10,5812m)
agency: Phu Nuru (Himalayan Ascent pmt)
routememo:
  -5 degrees in the tent at base camp on morning of 25th. Left at 8:35 am, up snow fields to yak camp. Arrived at 11:40 am, icy trail. 12:30-2:15 pm to C1. Normally a boulder field, this was largely filled in with snow. Down to -10 in tent that night.

  Saturday 26 left C1 at 7:50 am (beautiful views). About 2 hours to C2. Not carrying anything and super fun climbing. From the bottom of the grey tower took photos of the C2 tower. Back down to C1 in about an hour. Tiring with all the warm wraps. Coming down the boulder field difficult because of falling through the snow between the rocks. ABC/yak camp back down to base was a long boring slog in an icy rutt. Arrived 5 pm. Several slips on way down. Bellamy plans to join IMG for Everest south side in spring 2014.

  Sherpa:
    Phunuru Sherpa, Phortse, 16/5/1980


expid: AMAD13304
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Andrea Zimmermann
sponsor: Wild Yak Ama Dablam 2013
approach: Lukla->Namche->Tengboche
bcdate: 2013-10-12
smtdate: 2013-10-26
termdate: 2013-10-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to bad snow conditions
campsites: BC(17/10,4700m),C1(20-21/10,5600m),xxx(26/10,6100m)
agency: Wild Yak Expeditions
routememo:
  Struggling to put out from the snow the fixed ropes up to 6100m, the team had to abandon its attempt.

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Nurbu Sherpa, 7/9/1980, Ghunsa, Taplejung


expid: AMAD13305
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: N Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Ama Dablam Expedition 2013
countries: Austria, Germany, Japan, USA
bcdate: 2013-10-26
smtdate: 2013-11-04
termdate: 2013-11-06
termnote: Abandoned at 6250m due to route too dangerous
campsites: BC(26/10,5511m),C1(04/11,6150m),xxx(04/11,6250m)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  In their bid to climb Ama Dablam by a seldom-used route up the North Ridge, the team established two camps: BC at 5011m at the bottom of the North Ridge between the ridge and the East Face, and C1 at 6150m on the ridge. They were plagued from the beginning by waist-deep snow. Normally it would take three hours to go from Pangboche village to BC, but now it took them four days to make a trail which the yaks carrying all their loads could use to arrive at BC. And then it took six days instead of two for the climbers to force their way through the snow from BC to C1.

  Five members and six Sherpas attempted to go on above C1. They were Bierling, Brice, Daum, Paul and Kuraoka with seven Sherpas. They managed on 4 November to reach the teams high point at 6250m, just 100 meters above C1, and then gave up. The climb now was abandoned: even if they took more time to carry on the struggle (which they didn't), the route was too dangerous from avalanching and likelihood of climbers succumbing to frostbite in the low temperatures now prevailing. The decision was to spend one night in C1 and then abandon their attempt on the mountain. They were back in BC on the 5th and left on the 6th.

  Sherpas:
    Gyalgen Dorje, 17/2/88, Phortse, Everest X9, Lhotse X2, Manaslu X4
    Lhakpa Nuru, 18/6/80, Phortse, Everest X9, Lhotse X2, Manaslu X4
    Nawang Tenjing, 20/11/93, Phortse, Everest X1, Manaslu X3
    Ngima Chhiri, 22/4/72, Phortse, Everest X4, Manaslu X3
    Phurba Tashi, 24/5/71, Khumjung, Cho Oyu X5, Everest X21, Lhotse X3, Manaslu X4
    Rita Dorje, 24/10/77, Phortse, Everest X8, Lhotse X1, Manaslu X3
    Tashi Tshering, 26/4/77, Khumjung, Everert X4, Lhotse X2, Manaslu X2


expid: AMAD13307
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Lydia Bradey
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Ama Dablam Expedition 2013
countries: Australia, Japan, Sweden, UK, USA
bcdate: 2013-10-22
smtdate: 2013-10-29
termdate: 2013-11-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to bad snow conditions above
campsites: BC(22/10,4450m),ABC(26/10,5500m),C1(28/10,5800m),xxx(29/10,02/11,6100m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC at lodge 20 minutes below BC
  High point at 6100m at C2 site.

  The team got no higher than 6100m, the site for C2, but never made camp there. On 29 October, five members and two Sherpas reached the site ("touched it" as the saying goes), but turned back to C1. Again, on 2 November four members and five Sherpas touched C2, but retreated to C1.

  They were on 29 October, Berglund, Bradey, Larsson, Morris and Slater with Lhakpa Dorje and Lhakpa Tenzing, and on 2 November Bradey, Chessor, Goto and Larson with Chewang Dorje, Kami Rita, Lhakpa Dorje, Lhakpa Tenzing and Rinji.

  The problem each time was the powder snow covering the route above C2. They abandoned their climb after they found the same conditions when they went up the second time on 2 November, and decided that day to give up.

  Sherpas:
    Chewang, 17/4/81, Pangboche, Everest X8
    Kami Rita, 22/10/77, Thami, Everest X13
    Lhakpa Dorje, 16/11/61, Sanam, Gudel, Solu, Cho Oyu X4,  Everest X8, Kangch X1,
      Lhotse X1, Makalu X3
    Lhakpa Tenzing, 21/12/70, Sanam, Gudel, Solu, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X1, Makalu X1
    Rinji, 26/7/75, Gorakhani-5, Solu, Everest X2


expid: AMAD13308
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Thomas Rogerson
sponsor: Australian Ama Dablam
approach: Chhukung
bcdate: 2013-10-19
smtdate: 2013-11-02
termdate: 2013-11-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to too much snow
campsites: BC(19/10,4700m),ABC(22/10,5500m),C1(23/10,5800m),C2(02/11,6100m),xxx
agency: Himalayan Ascent
routememo:
  BC  19 Oct  4700m
  ABC 22 Oct  5500m
  C1  23 Oct  5800m
  C2  02 Nov  6100m
  HP  02 Nov  6100m by Rogerson, Tsering Sherpa.

  Rogerson and Tshering stayed a night at C2 and abandoned climb due to too much snow. They descended to BC on 3 Nov.

  Clough reached C1 on 23 Oct and stayed the night. On 1 Nov he went back up to C1 for the summit attempt, but descended to BC the following day as he was feeling sick.

  Sherpa:
    Chhiring (Tshering), Sisuwa-9, Makalu-Barun, 31/08/1991


expid: AMAD13309
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Ryuseki Hiraoka
sponsor: Ryuseki Expeditions Ama Dablam 2013
approach: Pangboche->Island Peak
bcdate: 2013-10-30
smtdate: 2013-11-02
termdate: 2013-11-07
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to too much snow and no fixed rope
othersmts: Island Peak and Lobuche East
campsites: BC(30/10,4600m),C1(01/11,5800m),xxx(02-03/11,6000m)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  BC  30 Oct  4600m
  C1  01 Nov  5800m
  C2  02 Nov  6000m by Pasang Kami, Namgyal Sherpa
  HP  03 Nov  6000m by Abe, Hayashi, Hiraoka, Iwano, Izumi, Kudo, Sakai, Taguchi, 
                    Toshioka.

  Team climbed up to C2 on 3 Nov and reached the camp at about 11 am. When the team noticed that the Sherpas had not been able to fix the ropes much higher than C2 due to the deep snow, they descended to BC, where they arrived at 5 pm. They had left some of their gear at C1 in the hope that they would go up again, but abandoned the idea as the snow was too deep.

  Yamamura intended to climb Island Peak for acclimatization on 28 Oct; however, he did not get up and decided to leave the expedition on 29 October. He did not even reach Ama Dablam BC.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Kami
    Namgyal, Khumjung, 26 yrs


expid: CHOY13311
peakid: CHOY
year: 2013
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Martin Barnett
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Cho Oyu Expedition 2013
countries: Ireland, USA
bcdate: 2013-09-07
smtdate: 2013-10-01
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2013-10-04
agency: Makalu Adventure
campsites:
  CBC(07/09,4900m),IC(10/09,5100m),ABC(11/09,5700m),C1(20/09,6400m),C2(21/09,7100m),C3(30/09,7500m),Smt(01/10)

routememo:
  Allen, Barnett, Good, Rossiter, Trundle, Whitfield, Phurba Wangchu, Ongchu and Lhakpa started their summit push after four hours rest at C3 on 1 October at 12:45 am NST. Barnett, Good, Rossiter, Trundle, Phurba Wangchu and Lhakpa using oxygen reached summit at 6:30 am. The two climbers Allen and Whitfield plus Ongchu got to the top at 7:45 am. They stayed on summit for about 30 minutes and descended to C3 at 9 am. Barnett, Good, Rossiter and Phurba Wangchu continued to C1 and rest of the members and two Sherpas slept at C2. Next day 2 October every body went down to ABC. Ahead of Barnett team there were about six climbers on the summit and behind them coming up were may be about 100 climbers including a Chinese team (about 30 climbers).

  Sherpas:
    Phurbu Wangchu Sherpa, 5/12/75, Waku-9, Cho Oyu, Everest, Lhotse
    Ongchu, Waku-9
    Lakpa, Makalu


expid: AMAD13311
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Hans Honold
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Ama Dablam Expedition 2013
countries: Austria, Germany
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2013-10-17
smtdate: 2013-10-26
termdate: 2013-11-04
termnote: Abandoned at 6050m due to too much snow and no fixed rope
campsites: BC(17/10,4600m),C1(21/10,5750m),xxx(26/10,6050m)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  BC  17 Oct  4600m
  C1  21 Oct  5750m
  HP  26 Oct  6050m by Bachmann, Bittel, Bucher, Daeppen, Harreis, Honold, 
                    Martinson, Peter, Schneider, Sohneg, Vielhauer, Wasser, Wehrli.

  Team touched C2 on 26 Oct, however, they did not go farther due to too much snow. After they descended to BC, 13 of the members left the expedition (everyone apart from Wehrli, Harreis, Martinson and Honold) due to the masses of snow.

  Wehrli, Harreis, Martinson and Honold decided to stay and see whether they would get another chance. They remained in BC until 4 Nov and left then.

  Karsten Weis and Fred Weis reached BC on 17 Oct. They looked at the mountain and decided that they would go trekking instead. They left BC on 19 Oct.

  Rudolph reached C1 on 21 Oct; he abandoned climb for personal reasons.

  Ruess reached C1 on 21 Oct; he abandoned climb for personal reasons.

  Lehmann reached C1 on 21 Oct; he abandoned expedition for medical reasons as he did not cope well with the altitude.

  Waag reached C1 on 21 Oct; he abandoned expedition for medical reasons as he did not cope well with the altitude.


expid: AMAD13312
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Matthias Bach
sponsor: One German for Ama Dablam
approach: Namche->Thyangboche
smtdate: 2013-10-13
termnote: Did no climbing due to family problems
agency: South Asian Treks
routememo:
  Matthias Bach didn't take the plane for Lukla. He learned he had to go back home for family problems and left Nepal without any climbing at all in the mountains on the 13 October 2013.


expid: AMAD13313
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Anthony Darbyshire
sponsor: Mountain Dream Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Monjo->Namche->Deboche
bcdate: 2013-10-21
smtdate: 2013-10-29
termdate: 2013-10-31
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to high winds and excessive snow
campsites: BC(21/10,4600m),C1(28/10,5800m),xxx(29/10,6000m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Darbyshire and Ang Gelu went up to C2 for acclimatization on 29 October and returned to C1. Next day they went down to BC.


expid: TILI13301
peakid: TILI
year: 2013
route1: NE Spur-N Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kazuyoshi Kondo
sponsor: Hiun Chituwa Tilicho Expedition 2013
approach: See route notes
bcdate: 2013-10-10
smtdate: 2013-10-25
termdate: 2013-10-28
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to unstable serac overhang on the route (dangerous)
campsites: BC(10/10,4900m),xxx(25/10,5800m)
agency: Bochi Bochi Treks
routememo:
  Approach: Chyamche->Danakyu->Vardan->Khunde->Chulu SE BC->Braga->Sirichaur->Tilicho Lake.

  Kondo went up to 5800m.

  Hired:
    Keshab Gurung [Laprak-4, Gorkha, 31/3/79]
    Bishnu Gurung [Bir Bahadur, Dharampani-8, Tanahun, 20/9/67]
    Ramesh Gurung [Hatiya-7, Makalu-Barun, 29/6/88]


expid: CHOY13312
peakid: CHOY
year: 2013
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Alexander Barber
sponsor: Cho Oyu Expedition 2013
approach: Kodari->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2013-09-11
smtdate: 2013-10-01
smttime: 0820
termdate: 2013-10-03
campsites: BC(11/09,4600m),ABC(13/09,5700m),C1(18/09,6400m),C2(20/09,7100m),C3(30/09,7400m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Barber left C3 at 12:40 am on 1 Oct. It was warm and calm with a layer of thin cloud. He stayed about 20 minutes on the summit and about 15 minutes later 8 more people arrived on the top. He descended to ABC, where he arrived at 6 pm.


expid: CHOY13313
peakid: CHOY
year: 2013
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Mario Monaco
sponsor: Italian Cho Oyu 2013
bcdate: 2013-09-12
smtdate: 2013-09-30
smttime: 1240
termdate: 2013-10-05
campsites: BC(12/09,5700m),C1(16/09,6430m),C2(20/09,7100m),Smt(30/09)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  12 Sept - at Advanced Base Camp
  16 Sept - the first climb and transport of tents to C1 at 6430m
  19 Sept - ascent to C1, night at C1
  20 Sept - ascent from C1 to C2 at 7100m with tents and transport materials. 
            Ski descent from C2 to C1, where we stayed another night
  21 Sept - down from C1 to ABC
  27 Sept - ascent to C1, night at C1
  28 Sept – ascent from C1 to C2, night at C2 and passed the day 29 September, 
            the day before summit.

  The night between 29 and 30 Sept after midnight (0:30 Nepal time) we started from C2, and at 12:40 pm on 30 Sept, after about 12 hours of climbing, we were on the summit of Cho Oyu.

  The summit day, 30 Sept, was not windy and not very cold. We remained 45 minutes on the summit (we were 4 alpinists: Ang Dawa Sherpa, Mariusz Malkowski, Riccardo Bergamini and Mario Monaco) and at 1:25 pm, I started the ski descent alone. I easily passed the Yellow Band at 7800m in a zone with snow and at 2:55 pm in the afternoon arrived at C2. I waited for my friends who were coming down from the summit on foot; they were without skis and we passed the night at C2.

  1 October we closed the tents, started from C2 on skis, I passed skiing with caution the Ice Fall at 6750m and arrived at C1. We closed the tents of C1 and   ski below C1 down to 6200m, where the snow was finished. Changed the skis and come together at the ABC.

  I think this is the first Italian ski descent from summit. The first snowboard Italian descent was made by my friend Marco Galliano on 2011.


  Bergamini - 7 Oct 2013

  Bergamini, Monaco and Dawa started from C2 at 12:30 hrs (NST) of 30 September. They reached summit at 13:30 hrs and stayed on summit for 20 minutes. Monaco skied down to C2 where he arrived at around 15:30 hrs. Bergamini and Dawa reached C2 around 18:30 hours and next day 1 October they went down to ABC.


expid: CHOY13314
peakid: CHOY
year: 2013
route1: NW side
nation: Sweden
leaders: Sven Sjoeberg
sponsor: Swedish Cho Oyu Expedition 2013
approach: Zhangbu->Tingri->BC
bcdate: 2013-09-02
smtdate: 2013-09-29
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2013-10-01
agency: Himalayan Ecstasy Treks
campsites:
  BC(02/09,4900m),IC(05/09,5300m),ABC(06/09,5700m),C1(14/09,6400m),C2(20/09,7200m),C3(28/09,7600m),Smt(29/09)

routememo:
  Sjoeberg, Dipen and Lakpa started from C3 at 00:30 am (NST) on 29 Sept. They got to the top at 09:30 am, stayed there for about 20 minutes, then back to C3 at 5 pm and continued to C2. Next day 30 Sept, they went down to ABC. The summit day weather was perfect with mild wind. Lakpa left two ice bars and Lungta on the summit. Have seen movie of the summit.

  Lakpa Sherpa, first time summiter.


expid: CHOY13316
peakid: CHOY
year: 2013
route1: NW side
nation: Georgia
leaders: Gia Tortladze
sponsor: Cho Oyu Expedition 2013
bcdate: 2013-09-09
smtdate: 2013-09-26
termdate: 2013-10-01
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to acute skin problem
campsites: BC(09/09,5650m),C1(14/09,6400m),C2(18/09,7100m),C3(26/09,7400m),xxx(26/09,7400m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Tortladze climbed by himself with no teammates and no Sherpas to share the tasks of setting up tents, cooking, etc. He reached BC on 9 September, made his C1 on 14 September and went down to BC on the 15th. He returned to C1 on the 17th, pitched C2 on the 18th and again returned to BC to rest on the 19th.

  Now there was a period of bad weather with snowfall and wind. He was able to go back up to C1 on the 24th and to C2 on the 25th. He then made his C3 on 26 September.

  But now he was suffering from an allergic reactions to some food he had just eaten. He was covered with small spots that itched. So down to BC on the 27th. He stayed briefly at BC, then decided to give up the climb, and by 1 October he was back in Nyalam on the road to Kathmandu.


expid: CHOY13323
peakid: CHOY
year: 2013
route1: NW side
nation: Austria
leaders: Andreas Newschmid
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Cho Oyu Expedition 2013
countries: Switzerland
approach: From Xixabangma
bcdate: 2013-09-30
smtdate: 2013-10-08
termdate: 2013-10-09
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to slab avalanche
othersmts: Summited Xixabangma on 25 Sept
campsites: ABC(30/09,6300m),C1(05/10,6300m),C2(06/10,7000m),C3(07/10,7500m),xxx(08/10,7600m)
accidents: Slab avalanche bruised ribs of Roeoesli-Zingg
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  ABC 30 Sep  5700m
  C1  05 Oct  6300m	
  C2  06 Oct  7000m
  C3  07 Oct  7500m	
  HP  08 Oct  7600m by Neuschmid, Hefti, Roeoesli-Zingg, Schnyder, Ngima Chhiring
              at 3 pm (NST).

  Team left C3 at 2 am. Weather was windy and very cold. Just below the Yellow Band Neuschmid triggered a slab avalanche of about 1000m, which swept the team down for about 50 meters. Roeoesli-Zingg bruised a few ribs, but everybody else was fine. They descended to ABC, where they arrived at 6 pm.

  Ngima Chhiring had summited Cho Oyu on 1 Oct with Stephan Keck. He stayed at BC and waited for the other Kobler & Partner team.

  Oxygen:	Not taken, not used

  Sherpa:	
    Ngima Chhiring Lama, Taplejung, 15/08/1973


expid: CHOY13318
peakid: CHOY
year: 2013
route1: NW side
nation: UK
leaders: Tim Calder
sponsor: Jagged Globe Cho Oyu Expedition 2013
countries: Ireland
bcdate: 2013-09-13
smtdate: 2013-10-02
termdate: 2013-10-07
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to bad weather (heavy snowfall)
campsites: BC(13/09,4380m),ABC(18/09,5660m),C1(21/09,6400m),C2(02/10,7100m),xxx
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  The highest point reached by the expedition was C2 at 7100m, established on 2 October. It was occupied by Calder, Greenan, James, Johnson, Neave, Ross and Rutland, plus Lila Bahadur, Pasang Tenzing, Pema Chhiring and Tshering Pemba.

  The weather had turned bad during the night of the 1st/2nd October with strong wind followed by three days of heavy snowfall. All members and Sherpas managed to retreat to ABC, and on 5 October the climb was called off.

  Holland got to C1 with the team on 21 September, but then developed a stomach problem, retreated to ABC and remained there for the rest of the climb.

  Sherpas:
    Lila Bahadur Basnet, 31/3/83, Lamabagar-3, Dolakha, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X3
    Pasang Tenzing, 1/10/84, Beding, Cho Oyu X3, Everest X8
    Pema Chhiring Sherpa, 17/12/83, Beding, Cho Oyu X3, Everest X9, Lhotse X1
    Tshering Pemba, 22/11/85, Beding, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X5


expid: CHOY13319
peakid: CHOY
year: 2013
route1: NW side
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Mike Roberts
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Cho Oyu Expedition 2013
countries: Australia, Czech Republic, Malaysia, USA
bcdate: 2013-09-05
smtdate: 2013-09-30
smttime: 0645
termdate: 2013-10-04
campsites: BC(05/09,4800m),ABC(07/09,5700m),C1(16/09,6400m),C1.5(21/09,6800m),C2(22/09,7100m),Smt(30/09)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Three members and three Sherpas left C2 for the top at 30 minutes after midnight of 29/30 September and summited at 6:45 am on 30 September. They were Roberts, Webb and Zaloudek with Sherpas Dawa Jangbu, Kami Rita and Lhakpa. They descended all the way to ABC at 7:30 pm the same day, stopping in C2 from 10:00 am to 1:30 pm for a nap. It was a clear day with a slight breeze at the top.

  All the summiters, members and Sherpas alike, used oxygen in C2 to the top down to 7500m.

  One of the team's Sherpas, Sange Dorje, was hit by an avalanche on 17 September while he was fixing rope just below C2. He was carried down about 150m, including over a vertical icefall. He was unconscious for 15 minutes, and suffered bad bruising all over his body with perhaps some damage to his ligaments.

  Non-summiting members:

  Dice got to ABC on 11 September and left the team the next day. He was developing a serious case of pulmonary edema, and was on oxygen all the way from ABC to Kathmandu.

  Lui reached 6700m on 17 September, then left the next day with acute sinusitis.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Jangbu, 22/4/73, Pangboche, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X10
    Kami Rita, 22/10/77, Thami, Everest X11
    Lhakpa, 20/6/75, Sotang-6, Solu, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X3
    Sange Dorje, 14/4/78, Khumjung, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X7


expid: CHOY13320
peakid: CHOY
year: 2013
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Mike Hamill
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Cho Oyu Expedition 2013
countries: Brazil, Germany, New Zealand
bcdate: 2013-09-05
smtdate: 2013-10-01
termdate: 2013-10-05
campsites: BC(05/09,4800m),ABC(10/09,5700m),C1(15/09,6430m),C2(22/09,7100m),C3(30/09,7500m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Beyul Adventure
routememo:
  The summit party of ten members and six Sherpas set out for the top from C3 thirty minutes after midnight in the wee hours of 1 October. They were Anderson, Bellamy, Broderick, De Raad, Florenzano, Gomes, Gordon, Hamill, Sand and Tammen, with Sherpas Ang Karma, Chewang Lendu, Mingma Dorje, Mingma Tenzing, Nima Karma and Phu Nuru.

  One member decided to turn around at 8100m: Broderick was moving too slowly and running out of oxygen already; she retreated to C1, where she arrived at 4:30 pm that afternoon. Ang Karma retreated to C1 with her.

  All the rest of the party went on to the summit at various times. Gordon and Sand were the first to arrive at the top with Phu Nuru and Mingma Dorje respectively.  All summiters descended to C1, but Gordon and Phu Nuru went on down to ABC at about 4:30 pm.

  The only health problem was a snow avalanche that hit Karma Rita on 17 September while he was fixing rope. His knee and finger hurt, but he suffered no permanent damage.

  Non-summiting members:

  Faje reached 6700m (C2) on 22 September. He didn't think he was strong enough to achieve the summit and decided this was enough for him, so he retreated to BC.

  Gottwald got to 5275m at intermediate camp between BC and ABC on 8 September and didn't feel well. He left the team on 9 September.

  Murphy left on 2 October. He reached 6700m and the altitude made him slow down.

  Silva got to 6700m on 22 September, then left to attend to some problem at home.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Karma, 25/7/74, Phortse, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X3
    Chewang/Chuwang/Tsewang Lendu, 19/4/80, Phortse, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X4, 
      Lhotse X4, Manaslu X1
    Mingma Dorje, 22/7/65, Phortse, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X7
    Mingma Tenzing, 1/6/86, Phortse, Everest X2
    Nima Karma, 30/6/83, Phortse, Everest X5
    Phu Nuru, 16/5/80, Phortse, Cho Oyu X7, Everest X5
    Karma Rita, 21/6/76, Phortse, Cho Oyu X4, Everest X6


expid: CHOY13321
peakid: CHOY
year: 2013
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Laurent Butaye
sponsor: Laurent Cho Oyu Expedition
approach: Kodari->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2013-09-10
smtdate: 2013-09-25
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2013-09-28
campsites: BC(10/09,4800m),IC(12/09,5200m),ABC(13/09,5700m),C1(16/09,6350m),C2(24/09,7100m),Smt(25/09)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Summit: 25 Oct by Butaye, Pemba at 12:30 pm

  Butaye and Pemba started their summit bid from C2 at 2:00 hrs (NST) on 25 Sept. They reached the summit at 12:30 pm and stayed on summit for 5 minutes. It became a little windy and Pemba was a bit nervous. They descended to C2 where they arrived at 6 pm. Next day 26 Sept they went down to ABC.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used

  Sherpa:
    Pemba


expid: CHOY13322
peakid: CHOY
year: 2013
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Mariusz Malkowski
sponsor: Z-Wave Himalayan Expedition by Kwikset
approach: Kodari->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2013-09-05
smtdate: 2013-09-30
smttime: 1310
termdate: 2013-10-05
campsites: BC(05/09,4900m),IC(07/09,5300m),ABC(08/09,5700m),C1(13/09,6400m),C2(30/09,7200m),Smt(30/09)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Summit: 30 Sept by Malkowski at 1:10 pm

  Malkowski started his summit bid from C2 at 12:30 am (NST) on 30 Sept. He reached the summit around 13:10 and stayed on the summit for about an hour, then descended to C2 where he arrived at 18:00. Next day 1 Oct he went down to ABC. There were only four people (two Italians Bergamini, Monaco, their Sherpa and Malkowski himself) on the summit that day. Malkowski said that the weather at the beginning was good, clear sky, but around 10-11:00 hrs clouds started moving in. There was no visibility problem. He did not see Everest, but he saw prayer flags on the summit.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


expid: MANA13327
peakid: MANA
year: 2013
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Muneo Nukita
sponsor: World Expedition Consultants Manaslu Expedition 2013
approach: Samagaon
bcdate: 2013-09-09
smtdate: 2013-10-02
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2013-10-06
campsites: BC(09/09,4800m),C1(14/09,5700m),C2(23/09,6300m),C3(30/09,6800m),C4(01/10,7400m),Smt(02/10)
agency: Rolwaling Trek
routememo:
  BC  09 Sep  4800m
  C1  14 Sep  5700m
  C2  23 Sep  6300m
  C3  30 Sep  6800m
  C4  01 Oct  7400m
  Smt	02 Oct  by Hirose, Imoto, Ishi, Ishizaki, Kadotani, Kadoya, Mitoro, Nakajima,
              Nukita, Okuda, Onodera, Oshiro, Pemba Gyalzen, Nima Nurbu, Pemba Nuru,
              Nima Kancha, Mingma Nuru, Tshering Wangchu, Ang Pemba, Kami Singe, 
              Sange, Jit Bahadur, Pemba Tenzing and Ang Kaji Sherpa between 10:30 am
              and 11 am.

  Team left C4 at 4 am. Deep snow. Weather was foggy. Straightforward climb. Members descended to C1, where they arrived at 8 pm. They had to negotiate the crevasse just above C2, where the snowbridge had collapsed and they had to climb through it. On 3 Oct everybody descended to BC.

  This expedition was a filming project for Japanese TV show with comedian Ms Imoto.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members
    From C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Gyalzen/Geljen, Thami, Khumbu, 22/07/1969
    Nima Nurbu, Thamiteng, Khumbu, 20/02/80
    Pemba Nuru, Thamiteng, Khumbu, 17/01/1977 [probably from Pare, 3/2/73]
    Nima Kancha, Pare, Khumbu, 19/07/1975
    Mingma Nuru (Ang Nuru), Namche Bazar, Khumbu, 03/08/1984
    Tshering Wangchu (Tshering Ongchuk), Thamo, Khumbu, 16/03/1983
    Ang Pemba, Thami, Khumbu, 25/07/1978
    Kami Singe Tamang, Syamba, Ramche, Rasuwa, 16/07/1977
    Sange, Simigaon, Dolakha, 29/01/1980
    Jit Bahadur (Thile), Khare-5, Dolakha, 30/07/1978
    Pemba Tenzing, Tesho, Khumbu, 5/9/91
    Ang Kaji, Gorkhani-4, 31 years (no previous summits)


expid: AMAD10114
peakid: AMAD
year: 2010
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Terry O'Connor
bcdate: 2010-04-04
smtdate: 2010-04-12
termdate: 2010-04-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to no fixed ropes and gear stolen
campsites: BC(04/04,4700m),C1,C2,C3(12/04,6300m),xxx
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Team spent one night at C3, had to turn round; route not fixed and another team had stolen our gear cash and took ropes.


expid: EVER12191
peakid: EVER
year: 2012
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Sam Wyatt
sponsor: Canadians on Everest
bcdate: 2012-04-17
smtdate: 2012-05-19
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2012-05-22
campsites: BC(17/04),ABC(6400m),C1(7000m),C2(17/05,7775m),C3(18/05,8300m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Sam Wyatt - 20 Nov 2013

  Steve, Dawa and I did an acclimatization trek and climb in the Khumbu between March 30 and April 12 where we climbed Lobuche prior to arriving in Tibet. Steve, Dawa and I arrived in Tibet side BC on April 17 and left on May 22, 2012. The rest of the Sherpa team, cooks, etc., arrived earlier and left later respectively from BC. 

  Our final assault went as follows: arrived at North Col on May 16th; arrived at C2 (7775m) May 17th, arrived at C3 (8300m) May 18th.

  I arrived at summit at approximately 6 am May 19th; Steve and the Sherpas about 20 min later. I arrived back at C3 at about 11:30 am, Phurba shortly after me, Steve, Dawa and Thendorje at about 1:30 pm. We spent another night at C3 May 19th. We all returned to ABC on May 20th.

  We only had on our team only Thendorje, Phurba Lama and Dawa Finjo Lama. Dawa is the son of Phurba. Dawa accompanied us back to Kathmandu after the climb.

  Two other climbers were on our permit: Juan Polo (Spanish) and Bhagi [Bat-Erdene Sereeter] (Mongolian). They were each climbing on their own and each had one Sherpa climbing with them. I do not remember the Sherpas' names though Iswari (of Himalayan Guides) will likely know them. The two other climbers shared our cook and dining facilities on the mountain, but otherwise climbed independently from us.

  Juan and Bhagi's Sherpas did make the summit.
   
  I ran in to Bhagi on the way down from the summit at the Third Step; he had successfully summited and returned to camp that day. He developed some snowblindness from having his goggles off too long. The base of the Third Step is where I also saw the body of Frank [Ziebarth] (a [German] climber from Calgary) that I had met on my 2009 attempt. He had tried to climb without oxygen and perished.

  According to his Sherpa, Juan died on the way down just below the Second Step. His Sherpa claims that Juan refused to move from there and that he eventually lost consciousness at which point the Sherpa left him. The last time I saw Juan was on the traverse just below the final gully to the summit ridge with his Sherpa on my way down. I was surprised to see him there because we passed him on the way up just after the First Step and he was VERY slow and did not look well. I told him at the time that he needed to remember that he still had to get down. I later heard from Steve and the Sherpas who spent more time at the summit that they two saw him still below the gully in exactly the same spot about 45 min later. I had fully expected that he would turn back early.


expid: GAUR72301
peakid: GAUR
year: 1972
route1: W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Mikio Uematsu
sponsor: Berg Spinne Gaurishankar Expedition
smtdate: 1972-10-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m
campsites: xxx(19/10,6000m)
routememo:
  Lindsay Griffin (email) - 11 Jan 2014

  In 1972, Satoshi Aoki, who was a member of successful Manaslu NW Face expedition in 1971, took close-up shots of the South Face of Gaurishankar and published them in the Iwa To Yuki No. 27 (Oct 1972). It stimulated much Japanese climbers.

  The SW Spur of the lower West Ridge has been unsuccessfully attempted by the 'Berg Spinne' team, led by Mikio Uematsu, comprised 6-members in October 1972. They reached 6000m on the West Ridge on 19 October.


expid: AMAD13314
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: SummitClimb Ama Dablam Expedition 2013
countries: Australia, Netherlands, New Zealand, Switzerland, UK
bcdate: 2013-10-17
smtdate: 2013-11-17
smttime: 1800
termdate: 2013-11-20
campsites: BC(17/10,4550m),ABC(22/10,5000m),C1(26/10,5700m),C2(16/11,6000m),Smt(17-18/11)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  The expedition was divided into two groups:

  Group 1                         Group 2

  James Barritt                   Dany Biner
  Sarabijit Bhooee                Mark Biner 
  Daniel Mazur                    Janik Jaeger
  Ms. Maggie O'Connor             Fernando Joeger
  Timothy Richards                Andreas Schelling
  Mark Van'T Hof                  Nils Riva

  On 17 October, Group 1 arrived at BC, which was actually in a lodge called Mingbo Lodge (some climbers call it Ama Dablam Base Camp Lodge) which is ten meters below the normal BC site.

  The group climbed up to C2 on 23 October, where tents had been erected for them, but they did not stay there. There were no fixed ropes above the camp; this expedition had one strong Sherpa who could work with someone else to fix ropes, but he couldn't do the job alone. Barritt now wanted to fly home and left on 1 November. The rest of the group waited a couple of days for other climbers to come and help fix ropes, but those who arrived decided there was too much snow and it was too windy to go higher.

  So this group descended to BC and stayed there, then went up again to C1 on 2 November. Some of them went up to C2, but did not stay there; all retreated to BC. They left BC on the 3rd: now Group 2 was arriving.

  Group 2 had arrived at BC Lodge on 28 November, but they left on the 30th to climb two trekking peaks, Island Peak and Lobuche East, both of which were summited by all Group 2 members with the exception of Dany Biner, who did not climb Island Peak.

  Jaeger climbed both peaks, but then announced that he did not want to climb Ama Dablam; he wanted to climb a much less crowded mountain alpine style, so he joined SummitClimb's Tawoche team.

  The remaining members of Group 2 who had been to Island Peak and then Lobuche East arrived at Ama Dablam BC Lodge on 14 November. They climbed to C1 on the 15th and to C2 on the 16th, the day after ropes had been fixed to the summit by an expedition led by Adrian Ballinger.

  They followed the Ballinger ropes to the top. On 17 November Joerger, Schelling and Riva summited from C2 and descended to BC the same day. At the same time, Dany and Marc Biner, father and son, left BC at about 5:00 pm, climbed straight through the night and arrived at the summit at 6:00 am on 18 November, then turned around back to BC at about 2:00 pm.

  Neither group had any accidents, illnesses or frostbite. Group 1 returned to Kathmandu on 6 November and left on the 7th and 8th; Group 2 reached Kathmandu on the 24th and left two days later.


expid: AMAD13315
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: N Ridge
nation: Mexico
leaders: Eduardo Facha Garcia
sponsor: Mexicans to Ama Dablam 2013
bcdate: 2013-10-13
smtdate: 2013-10-29
termdate: 2013-10-30
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to too much snow, too windy, no fixed rope
campsites: BC(13/10,5065m),ABC(16/10,5250m),xxx(29/10,5800m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  BC  13 Oct  5065m
  ABC 16 Oct  5250m
  HP  29 Oct  5800m by Robles, Cusi Bourlon.

  The day they arrived at BC the snow started and it lasted for 6 days. They established their ABC and the snow was up to their waist. It took them three days to break trail to ABC. They then trekked to Kalapattar and came back to BC on 25 Oct.

  They attempted for the summit on 29 Oct. They left BC at 7:15 am and climbed up the ropes that were fixed by Russell Brice's Sherpas. However, it was a very windy day and Robles got very cold hands and they decided not to carry on. Brice's Sherpas and his guide Hiro were in front of them still trying to reach C1, but progress was slow due to deep snow.

  Robles and Cusi Bourlon returned to BC, where Bourlon arrived at 5 pm and Robles at 8 pm.

  Facha Garcia reached ABC on 16 Oct. He didn't climb any higher than that as he had to leave the expedition early due to his work. He is a lawyer and had a few court cases in Mexico City. He left BC on 27 Oct.


expid: AMAD13316
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Christine Burke
sponsor: The Coolest Ama Dablam Expedition 2013
countries: Belgium, Canada
bcdate: 2013-10-22
smtdate: 2013-11-02
termdate: 2013-11-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to too much snow
othersmts: Summited Lobuche East (Lamarche)
campsites: BC(22/10,4700m),ABC(24/10,5500m),C1(24/10,5800m),C2(25/10,6100m),xxx(02/11,6100m)
agency: Himalayan Ascent
routememo:
  BC  22 Oct  4700m
  ABC 24 Oct  5500m by Coughlan
  C1  24 Oct  5800m by Burke and Lamarche
  C2  25 Oct  6100m by Burke and Lamarche
  HP  02 Nov  6100m by Burke, Coughlan, Lamarche, Lhakpa

  During the first rotation, Coughlan only went to C1 as she did not feel too well. Team went for a summit attempt on 30 Oct. However, when they reached C2 they saw that the snow was still too high to carry on and abandoned the climb.


expid: AMAD13317
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Malcolm Haskins
sponsor: MIA 2013
countries: Australia, New Zealand
bcdate: 2013-10-22
smtdate: 2013-10-27
termdate: 2013-11-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(22/10,4600m),ABC(25/10,5400m),C1(26/10,5800m),xxx(27/10,6100m)
accidents: 2 cases of altitude sickness
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
routememo:
  Team's high point was 6100m reached on 27 October by all members and all Sherpas: Bishop, Haskins, Howe, Moore, Tibbits, West and Whitby with Lhakpa Tamang and Rinji Sherpa. 6100m was the planned site for their C2; they descended to C1 to rest before tackling the top.

  They had planned to go to the summit on the 30th, but already snowfall had brought snow lying even at BC and the route above was covered with mixed snow and ice. Furthermore weather reports forecast much more snow coming. They decided on the 30th to abandon their climb.

  Two members, Howe and Tibbits, developed mild cases of altitude sickness, but recovered at lower altitudes in time to reach the team's high point.

  Sherpas:
    Lhakpa Tamang, 15/4/1977, Salleri-9, Lura, Salleri, Solu
    Rinjen Sherpa, 1/2/1973, Tashigaon, Makalu, Everest X9


expid: AMAD13318
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Domingo Exposito Cobo
sponsor: A Spaniard to Ama Dablam
approach: Pangboche->Island Peak
bcdate: 2013-10-27
smtdate: 2013-11-02
termdate: 2013-11-06
termnote: Abandoned at 5998m due to too much snow, no fixed rope
campsites: BC(27/10,4600m),C1(01/11,5800m),xxx(02/11,5998m)
agency: Asian Expedition (Himalayan Guides pmt)
routememo:
  BC	27 Oct  4600m
  C1	01 Nov  5800m
  HP  02 Nov  5998m by Exposito Cobo.

  Exposito Cobo reached his high point during his first summit attempt. He did not quite reach C2 as he decided to turn back once he noticed that the Sherpas had not fixed the ropes higher up. 

  He tried another time for the summit on 5 Nov. He reached C1, but the situation was the same and he did not feel well. He descended to BC on 6 Nov.


expid: AMAD13319
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Jing Luo
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Chinese Ama Dablam Expedition 2013
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2013-10-26
smtdate: 2013-11-28
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2013-12-01
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(26/10,4600m),C1(01/11,5800m),C2(02/11,6050m),xxx(06/11,6100m); Smt(28/11)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  26 Oct  4600m
  C1  01 Nov  5800m	
  C2  02 Nov  6050m
  HP  06 Nov  6100m by Feng, Zhang Qing-Yong.

  On 2 Nov Luo reached C2, where she stayed the night. The rest of the team (Feng, Li, Liu Shi-Young, Liu Yu, Ma, Xing, Zhang Qing-Yong, Zhang Wen-Wei and Zhu) reached about 5900m and turned back to BC. It was the acclimatization rotation.

  When they got back, four members left to climb Island Peak, three went to Kathmandu and three stayed at BC to give it another go. On 6 Nov, Feng and Zhang Qing-Yong reached 6100m, but decided to turn back due to too much snow and and no fixed ropes. Luo stayed at BC.

  Later in November the team returned to Ama Dablam and five members of the team summited Ama Dablam on 28 Nov.

  From Seven Summit Treks website:

  Congratulations to all the summit team of M/S Seven Summit Treks today on 28th November 2013, 09:30 on Mt. Ama Dablam (6812m) by Mr. Lakpa Sherpa, Mr. Pemba Sherpa, Mr. Mingma Dorchi Sherpa and Mr. Chhiji Nurbu Sherpa and most important the 05 Chinese climbers summited Mt. Ama Dablam. This is the first time Chinese climbers summited this mountain in China mountaineering history. Once more congratulations. From base camp by Tashi Sherpa.


expid: AMAD13320
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Linda Benardi
sponsor: An Italian to Ama Dablam
bcdate: 2013-10-26
smtdate: 2013-10-30
termdate: 2013-11-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6056m due too much snow, no fixed rope
othersmts: Summited Island Peak on 25 Oct
campsites: BC(26/10,4600m),C1(29/10,5800m),xxx(30/10,6056m)
agency: Monviso Treks (Himalayan Guides pmt)
routememo:
  BC  26 Oct  4600m
  C1  29 Oct  5800m
  HP  30 Oct  6056m by Bernardi, Lhakpa Nuru.

  Bernardi and Lhakpa Nuru touched C2 on 30 Oct. However, when they noticed that the ropes had not been fixed and the snow was too deep, they descended to BC the same day. They did not ascend a second time.


expid: AMAD13321
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Romania
leaders: Dorin Soria Baciu
sponsor: Romanians to Ama Dablam
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2013-10-22
smtdate: 2013-10-26
termdate: 2013-11-09
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to too much snow, no fixed rope
campsites: BC(22/10,4600m),C1(25/10,5800m),xxx(26/10,6000m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  22 Oct  4600m
  C1  25 Oct  5800m	
  HP  26 Oct  6000m by Baciu, Stefanescu.

  The first acclimatization rotation was finished on 26 Oct, when Baciu and Stefanescu reached 6000m. They returned to BC the same day. 

  Stefanescu tried for the summit on 6 Nov but when he got to C2, the Sherpas told him that it was not possible. He descended to C1, stayed the night and to BC on 8 Nov.

  Baciu did not join the summit attempt as he wanted to wait for Stefanescu to let him know whether it is possible to go up to the summit or not. He did not want to go up again without the prospect of reaching the summit.

  Amarinei reached BC on 22 Oct. He had a very bad cold and left on 24 Oct.


expid: AMAD13322
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Won Jae-Gyu
sponsor: Korean Alpine Club Daegu Branch Mt. Ama Dablam Expedition 2013
approach: Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2013-10-22
smtdate: 2013-10-29
termdate: 2013-10-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to snow conditions
campsites: BC(22/10,4500m),ABC(23/10,5500m),C1(26/10,5800m),xxx(29/10,6000m),xxx
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Kim Dae-Hyun stayed at the ABC whereas leader Won Jae-Gyu stayed at the BC all time. 

  Jeong Rae-Wook went for sleeping at C1 on the 26 Oct, then back to ABC the day after. Then he came back on the 28 Oct with Choi Jee-Hoon for sleeping at C1, then Choi Jee-Hoon attempted to reach C2 on 29 Oct with no success (100m below it) because of too much snow.

  Sherpas:
    Ngawang Tenzing Sherpa, 29 years in 2046 (b. 1960), Khumjung-9, Solu
    Ngawang Tenzing Sherpa, Phortse, Khumbu, 20/11/93
    Ngima Kanchha Sherpa, 16/5/79 (2036/2/2), Khumjung-1, Solu


expid: AMAD13323
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: E Face (new rte)
nation: S Korea
leaders: Yoo Hak-Jae
sponsor: Korean Ama Dablam East Face Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2013-10-12
smtdate: 2013-10-24
termdate: 2013-10-26
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to soft snow conditions
campsites: BC(12/10,5060m),Biv1(22/10,5750m),Biv2(23/10,6125m),Biv3(24/10,6234m),xxx(24/10)
agency: Nepal Climbing Professionals
routememo:
  The team chose a new line on the right of the main corridor located in the center of the East Face, to be sheltered from the seracs, ice and rocks avalanches. (Central corridor low section is 65-degrees steep, then middle section between 60 degrees and 70 degrees, then the upper section is 80-degrees steep up to 85 degrees).

  On the 24 Oct Yoo Hak-Jae and his teammates reached bivouac 3, after climbing in correct mixed ground conditions. From there Yoo Hak-Jae tried to climb alone up to 6300m, where he was blocked by the soft snow conditions in a steeper ground; trying to reach the proper rock, he could only disappear in the snow (up to right under the shoulders), finding no anchors at all. His goal was to join on the right of the face the shoulder located high on the North Ridge, this to avoid the mushrooms of the upper East Face and so gain the summit by the easier end of the North Ridge.

  On the 25 October, all 3 members went down to their base camp in 12 abseils (with 2 100m of length Kevlar ropes of 8mm)

  According to them, snow conditions are the key problem to climb via this East Face, which otherwise wouldn't be too difficult, mostly in mixed ground (with good protections in the rock), but dangerous. Mostly the central main corridor, even easier, has to be avoided because of a major avalanche exposure.


expid: AMAD13324
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Robert Gasser
sponsor: Italians on Ama Dablam
approach: Tumlingtar->Makalu BC->Sherpani Col->Hunku Valley
bcdate: 2013-10-22
smtdate: 2013-10-26
termdate: 2013-11-04
termnote: Abandoned at 5600m due to snow conditions
campsites: BC(22/10,4600m),ABC(23/10,5600m),xxx(26/10,5600m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Kaiser only reached ABC on 23 October (his high point)

  Gufler and Gasser slept at ABC on the 25 October, then tried to go to C1 which was overcrowded, so just had to go back to the ABC same day, then BC the day after.

  With the weather forecast announcing strong winds from the 5 November, they knew on the 3 November they had to abandon.


expid: AMAD13325
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: John Jones
sponsor: An Australian on Ama Dablam
approach: Lukla->Namche->Gokyo
bcdate: 2013-10-13
smtdate: 2013-10-16
termdate: 2013-10-31
termnote: Abandoned at 5400m due to snow conditions, lack of equipment
campsites: BC(13/10,4800m),ABC(16/10,5400m),xxx(16/10,5400m)
agency: Himalayan Ascent
routememo:
  Jones was inserted within the other expeditions group of Himalayan Ascent, the whole group hiring 7 Sherpas, with one dedicated to his expedition:

    Ang Gelu Sherpa, 23/7/1970, Surke, Chaurikharka-4, Solu

  After the snow fell, the route became very bad and seeing no possibility of the route being prepared in the future, Jones went back to the BC to keep his energy for a summit push, expecting a possible attempt on the 28-29 October. But the Nepali team equipping the normal route couldn't reach further than C2.7, mostly in dangerous conditions of snow on the mushroom ridge. Jones had to decide to abandon any hope for the summit on the 29 October mostly as the weather forecast announced strong winds coming from the 3rd November, so left BC on the 31 October.


expid: AMAD13326
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Juan Carlos Mompel
sponsor: Spaniards to Ama Dablam
approach: Lukla->Namche->Tengboche
bcdate: 2013-10-15
smtdate: 2013-10-22
termdate: 2013-10-25
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to deep snow and lack of time
campsites: BC(15/10,4600m),C1(19/10,5800m),C2(22/10,6000m),xxx
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Xavier Brau and Pau Herrero slept at C1 on 19 October, then to the 21 October, then at C2 on 22 October, and back to BC on 23 October.

  David Borras and Mompel slept at C1 on 19 October, then 21 October and 22 October, then back to BC on 23 October.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa


expid: AMAD13327
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Adrian Ballinger
sponsor: Alpenglow Ama Dablam Expedition 2013
countries: USA
approach: Namche->Machermo->Gokyo->Cho La
bcdate: 2013-10-28
smtdate: 2013-11-15
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2013-11-17
campsites: BC(28/10,4600m),C1(02/11,5700m),C2(14/11,6000m),Smt(15/11)
agency: Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
routememo:
  BC  28 Oct  4600m
  C1  02 Nov  5700m	
  C2  15 Nov  6000m (members)
  Smt	15 Nov  at 2 pm by rope-fixing Sherpas Dorji Sonam, Tenzing Gyalzen, 
                 Pasang Rinji
  Smt	16 Nov  by Harrington and Tenzing Gyalzen (again) at 8:37 am, Ballinger, 
                 Penner and Pasang Rinji (again) at 8:52 am, Morrison at 9:17 am
                 and Beidleman at 9:52 am.

  The 16 Nov team left C2 in about 30 km/h winds at 3 am. It was a very clear day. They were only people on the summit and in fact the first commercial team that summited that season. A small Slovenian team summited later the same day. They stayed about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to BC, where they arrived at 7 pm.

  Jurek reached C2 on 3 November, but abandoned her climb due to fatigue.

  Team left BC on 17 Nov by helicopter.

  Fixed rope: from Grey Tower (from the Mushroom Ridge to C2.7, and to the summit)

  Sherpas:
    Dorje Sonam Gyalzen, Phortse, 24/05/1981
    Pasang Rinji, Phortse, 18/01/1977
    Tenzing Gyalzen, Phortse, 02/07/1991

  Ballinger by email: All previous teams stopped at an exposed section of the Mushroom Ridge. Our team felt comfortable fixing this section of the ridge (combined guide and Sherpa effort) and after this the route from C2.7 up was in amazing condition. Overall the big October snowstorm made the route better and safer than in previous years. Only the Mushroom Ridge cornices were more difficult or dangerous than normal.


expid: AMAD13328
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: S Africa
leaders: John Black
sponsor: South Africans on Ama Dablam
countries: UK
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2013-11-01
smtdate: 2013-11-17
smttime: 1445
termdate: 2013-11-19
campsites: BC(01/11,4500m),ABC(05/11,5000m),C1(09/11,5750m),C2(16/11,6100m),Smt(17/11)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Team left C2 at 7:30 am. It was clear but windy and cold. They stayed about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at 6:15 pm. It was a straightforward climb and due to the fact that Ballinger's Sherpas had fixed the rope a few days earlier, they were able to reach the summit as opposed to many other teams that had left earlier.

  Kojetin reached C2 during an acclimatization climb on 10 Nov. He did not join the summit attempt due to bronchitis and a sore ankle. He stayed at BC while the rest of his team went to the summit.


expid: AMAD13329
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Indonesia
leaders: Taufan Hidayat
sponsor: Gapai Tingg Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 2013-11-04
smtdate: 2013-11-22
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2013-11-24
campsites: BC(04/11,4600m),ABC(10/11,5400m),C1(11/11,5700m),Smt(22/11)
agency: Adventure Geo Treks
routememo:
  The leader and one member reached only BC, left BC by helicopter because both of them had chest infections. In Kathmandu they spent a day in a hospital and did not return to the mountain. That left two members and one Sherpa, Doma Chhiri, to climb Ama Dablam.

  The three men went up to C1 on 17 November, discovered that there was no room at C2 for three more people, so went back to BC the next day.

  Fianto and Doma Chhiri moved up again at 8:30 am on the 21st from BC to C1, where Fianto put on his down suit, climbing boots and crampons and collected his climbing equipment at 5:00 pm. At 8:00 pm Fianto and Doma Chhiri started from C1 for the top and reached the summit at 12 noon the next day, the 22nd. They were extremely tired by the time they got down to other teams' C2. Sherpas with an expedition from the Himalayan Ascent trekking company agreed to let them sleep in their (the Sherpas') tent, where they stayed until 8:00 am on the following day. They finally reached BC at 1:00 pm.

  Syaifuddin had stayed in BC during this time. He had a cough and was satisfied to stay in BC in support of Fianto and Doma Chhiri.

  Sherpas:
    Doma Chhiri, 17/1/84, Sikli, Jubing-9, Solu, Everest X4


expid: AMAD13330
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: John Armstrong
sponsor: Jagged Globe Ama Dablam Expedition 2013
countries: Ireland, Netherlands, Slovenia
bcdate: 2013-11-10
smtdate: 2013-11-20
smttime: 0930
campsites: BC(10/11,4600m),C1(13/11,5700m),C2(19/11,6000m),Smt(20,22/11)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  The team made no C3 because the Mushroom Ridge was too difficult for load-carrying Sherpas. Their summit bids were therefore made from C2.

  Five members and five Sherpas left C2 for the summit on 20 November at 3:00 am. They were Balnaves, Coupe, Koning, Leil and Repnik with Pasang Tenzing, Pema Chhiri, Pema Tshering, Thundu and Tshering Pemba. At 6300m, Coupe ran out of energy and went back to BC. The rest of the party continued to the summit at 9:30 am and returned to C2 at 1:00 pm.

  Coupe tried for the top again with O'Connor, Pasang Tenzing and Tshering Pemba. They left C2 at 3:00 am, but again Coupe turned around at 6300m and with Tshering Pemba retreated to BC. O'Connor and Pasang Tenzing summited at 9:15 am and returned to BC at 8:00 pm.

  Other non-summiting members:

  Armstrong went down from C2 to BC with Koning, whose left big toe had gotten frostbitten (the toe will heal).

  Baines turned around at C2 because he didn't sleep well and didn't feel like trying for the top.

  Baldcock went no higher than C1 because he had a bad cough and couldn't sleep well; he stayed in BC until the climb was finished.

  Trechman got no higher than 5900m on the 17th; she too had a bad cough and stayed in BC.

  Sherpas:  
    Pasang Tenzing, 1/10/84, Beding, Dolakha, Cho Oyu X3, Everest X9
    Pema Chhiri/Chhirring, 17/12/83, Beding, Cho Oyu X3, Everest X10, Lhotse X1
    Pema Tshering/Pem Chhiri, 16/12/80, Chankhu, Dolakha, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X6
    Thundu, 18/2/78, Beding, Cho Oyu X4, Everest X8
    Tshering Pemba, 22/11/85, Beding, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X5


expid: AMAD13331
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Ryszard Pawlowski
sponsor: Patagonia Mountain Agency (PMA) Ama Dablam Expedition 2013
countries: USA
bcdate: 2013-11-12
smtdate: 2013-11-17
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2013-11-19
campsites: BC(12/11,4500m),C1(13/11,5200m),C2(16-17/11,6000m),Smt(17-18/11)
accidents: Bory's chest infection
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  The team's leader, Ryszard Pawlowski, was the first to go to the summit. He arrived at their highest camp (C2) on 16 November, left C2 for the top at 7:00 am alone on the 17th, summited at 1:00 pm, and descended to C1 at 6:00 pm.

  The remaining four members got to C2 on the 17th and set off for summit on the 18th. Feluch, Sklodowska and Zanko left C2 for the top at 6:00 am, were on the summit at 11:40 am and returned to C1 at 5:00 pm. Borys developed a chest infection; he left C2 for the top at 6:30 am, but at 6300m he had to turn back and got down to C1 at 5:00 pm.

  The weather was clear on these two days. It was windy on the 17th; on the 18th  there was no wind except for some wind at the summit that day.


expid: AMAD13332
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yoshiyuki Tachibana
sponsor: International Ama Dablam
bcdate: 2013-11-19
smtdate: 2013-11-24
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2013-11-26
othersmts: Summited Island Peak on 16 Nov (Youshiyuki and Mingma Sherpa)
campsites: BC(19/11,4400m),C1(20/11,5800m),C2(23/11,6100m),Smt(24/11)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Yoshiyuki and Mingma went to Island Peak for a warm up climb before attempting Ama Dablam and summited it on 16 November. They arrived at Ama Dablam BC and were joined there by Phurba Namgyal on the 19th.

  The three men left C2 for the top on 24 November at 2:00 am, summited at 11:00 am and returned to C2 at 3:00 pm. They were back in BC on the 25th and left it the next day.

  Yoshiyuki used oxygen from 6400m (the normal site for C3) to the summit and back to C2. The two Sherpas used none.

  Sherpas:
    Mingma (Dorje) Sherpa, 1/10/77, Thamo, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X6, Manaslu X1
    Phurba Namgyal Sherpa, 7/2/86, Beding, Cho Oyu X4, Everest X4


expid: AMAD13333
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Peter Widhalm
sponsor: Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 2013-10-31
smtdate: 2013-11-13
termdate: 2013-11-14
termnote: Abandoned at 6350m due to soft snow and steep face
campsites: BC(01/11,4780m),C1(11/11,5180m),C2(12/11,5640m),xxx(13/11,6350m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  High point at 6350m at beside Dablam glacier.


  Email from Peter Widhalm - 22 December 2013

  Group has arrived in BC 1 November. November 4 load carry to C1 and pitched tent there. November 12 I climbed to C2 and spent the night there all alone.

  The Sherpas of Alpenglow Expedition had fixed ropes a little above C3 on November 11. So I decided to try the summit on November 13th. All alone I have climbed on the ropes up to Mushroom Ridge, continued on the new ropes of Alpenglow to C3 and above to the end of the ropes. I continued from there around 100-150m in altitude without ropes to end up beside the Dablam glacier. There I decided to turn arond due to the relatively soft snow and the very steep face. This was at around 6350m. After the attempt on November 13th I descended to BC to arrive BC in the evening. Climb was finished for me then.


expid: AMAD13334
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Elias Schijlen
sponsor: Ama Dablam Expedition 2013
countries: Netherlands
approach: Via Island Peak
bcdate: 2013-10-31
smtdate: 2013-11-02
termdate: 2013-11-09
termnote: Abandoned at 6250m due to poor snow conditions and Hammann's altitude sickness
othersmts: Summited Island Peak
campsites: BC(31/10,4700m),ABC(01/11,5200m),C1(04/11,5700m),C2(07/11,5900m),xxx(08/11,6250m)
accidents: Hammann altitude sickness
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  High point at 6250m at mushroom ridge top.


  Email from Elio Schijlen to Miss Hawley - 20 December 2013

  After our acclimatization climbing of Island peak we indeed arrived at Ama Dablam basecamp on 31 October.

  On 1 November we moved up to advanced base camp (5200m) and descend to basecamp again.

  On 4 November we climbed to C1 (5700m), and following day to C2 (5900m). On 5 November we put up our tent on C2, left some equipment and descend to basecamp. We were three persons in our team, and all three of us climbed according to the day schedule.

  Nicole Rouyen decided to go for trekking and left basecamp on November 6th, Roland Hammann and I decided to stay on Ama Dablam.

  On 7 November we started from basecamp and climbed to C2.

  On 8 November we climbed from C2 up to the mushroom ridge. At top of this ridge (approx 6250m) we decided to descend. Snow conditions were not ideal and Roland suffered too much from altitude sickness to be able to force a summit push. We took all our equipment down and late afternoon we arrived again at basecamp. The route was not more difficult than expected. It was however much more crowded than we expected.

  On 9 November we left Ama Dablam basecamp and went to Gokyo Ri and flew from Lukla on 15 November.


expid: AMAD13401
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Georgia
leaders: Gia Tortladze
sponsor: Georgia-Kazakhstan Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: Kazakhstan
bcdate: 2013-12-14
smtdate: 2013-12-16
termdate: 2013-12-20
termnote: Abandoned at 5500m due to Tortladze's illness
campsites: BC(14/12,4600m),C1(16/12,5500m),xxx(16/12,5500m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  The team did scarcely any climbing. They made their BC on 14 December, they pitched C1 on the 16th, then Tortladze became ill with pulmonary edema, so they descended to BC on the 17th and waited two days for Tortladze to recover, which he did not do, so they left BC on 20th.


expid: AMPH13301
peakid: AMPH
year: 2013
route1: SW Face-W Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: An Chi-Young
sponsor: Korean Amphu I Expedition
approach: Jatra Pass->Kote->Tangnag->Khare (Hinku Khola)
bcdate: 2013-09-27
smtdate: 2013-10-09
smttime: 1500
termdate: 2013-10-12
othersmts: Attempted Mera Peak
campsites: BC(27/09,5350m),Biv1(08/10,6450m),Smt(09/10)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  At first the team acclimatized on Mera Peak; that it didn't summit as they mistakenly took the right side of the normal route.

  On the summit day of Amphu, the team started on the 9th October from its bivouac at 8:30 am, reached the summit at 3 pm, then returned to its same bivouac at 6 pm. The day after the team was back at the BC at 12:30 am.

  After this, the team thought it had enough time to come sooner to Kathmandu and then leave faster for Korea. However, it was trapped by snow and had a very hard time between Sherpani Col and Makalu BC. The team eventually reached Num. From there it was driven to Biratnagar by bus, then after 2 days of waiting to Kathmandu by plane.

  Considering the climb on Amphu I, it was mainly in ice and snow. The general slopes of the corridor were 70-degrees steep in average (up to 80 in passages). On the West Ridge, as it was quite sharp and in soft snow conditions, the team had to belay all time up to the summit and down from it.

  Eventually the team left on the mountain 1 rock piton, 6 ice screws and snow bars, mostly used for the abseils in the corridor and belays on the West Ridge. It used otherwise 5 to 7 meters of fixed rope to equip a delicate passage in the broken glacier used to approach the proper climb.

  The route was called windy couloir as most of the SW Face's corridor used by the Koreans was so. The whole route is 1800m high, with 500m of glacier approach (1300m for the climb itself).

  International grade estimated like: WI4 AI5 ED2 XI UIAA 6


expid: ANN113302
peakid: ANN1
year: 2013
route1: S Face
nation: France
leaders: Yannick Graziani
sponsor: French on Annapurna I
approach: From Nayapul via Annapurna Sanctuary trail
bcdate: 2013-09-22
smtdate: 2013-10-24
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2013-10-28
othersmts: Summited unnamed 6505m peak
agency: Monviso Treks
campsites:
  BC(22/09,4130m),ABC(06/10),Biv1(17/10,6100m),Biv2(18-20/10,6650m),Biv3(21/10,7150m),Biv4(22/10,7400m),Biv4(23/10,7550m),Smt(24/10)

routememo:
  Graziani observed some clear evidences of his [Ueli Steck's] climb around 6700m (holes in the ice from the ice axes, and steps cut into the ice/snow for the feet) then at 7300m (less clearly, but his own mind was not that clear at that stage of his climb).

  Few days before as he and Benoist were staying on top of a 6505m peak without name for acclimatization, during their second night there, Graziani received a SMS from Steck, telling him he was going to summit Annapurna during the night (Ueli's summit was during the night of the 9th to 10th October.

  Graziani was given Steck's planning before the expedition and the timeline given by Steck after his climb fully corresponded. He is completely sure Steck did it.

  Graziani amazed by the fact Ueli Steck had just a single trip to 6500m for acclimatization, then could directly go up for the Annapurna's South Face.


  About 6505m peak first ascent:

  For acclimatization, they chose a very nice peak located on the ridge linking the Fish Tail and the main Annapurna summit barrier, the prominent peak north of Gandarva Chuli and given 6505m by the Finnish Map.

  On the 6th October they put an ABC in the deep gorge upper Modi Khola valley, then a first bivouac (in tent) on the glacier plateau located just W-SW of the Peak (at 5600m) on the 7th October. Then the day after they climbed an obvious gully up to the top where they stayed during two nights for acclimatization. During second night YG felt some imaginary respiratory problems, fearing for their coming attempt on Annapurna.

  On the 10th October, they descended in one day back to their ABC, then the day after to the BC lodge (more than 6th of tricky descent). On 11th they thought they would meet with Steck, but Steck was already paragliding in Pokhara (Steck apparently ran from the BC to the valley, then to Pokhara precisely the same day).


  About Annapurna South Face's Steck route:

  Then from the 12th October, as nobody was ready to help them to carry their gear, the tired pair had a difficult time to establish its ABC at 5000m. Then the cyclone occured, fortunately putting not too much snow on the south side of the Annapurna range (one day and a half of precipitations about 30/40 cms of new fresh snow). When the pair was back at ABC on the 16th October, they found that their tents had been lightly sagging by the snow.

  On the 17th October, the pair begun the proper climb by a safe rocky spur on the left side of the main corridor (average slopes from 40 to 50 degrees with some bits of rock passages) from the bergschrund at 5750m up to 6100m.

  On the 18th October, the pair chose to make a traverse on the right across ice flutes to reach a safe bivouac place at 6650m, well-protected from any avalanche danger as it is located on a terrace of the main spur going to the central summit. Difficulties that day: 50/70 snow icy slopes (not rocky at all).

  On the 19th, the pair stayed at the bivouac; there was a snowfall in the afternoon.

  On the 20th the pair stayed again at the bivouac. As it was still snowing during the afternoon with quite a lot of wind, the pair established its bivouac deeper within the cornice (very good shelter). The weather forecast was annoucing very good weather for the days after.

  On the 21st after a good rest with much food and drink, the team reached the foot of the main rock barrier at 7000m, then attacked the difficulties from 1 pm (according to Graziani they were deeply late at that stage, as Benoist's rhythm was already decreasing). They had 4 very hard pitches including two short extreme ones of 15m each. S Benoist led these ones. It was 90-degrees steep in very delicate ice with no protection: Benoist being sometimes blocked high above without any protection, he would ask Graziani for encouragment, the later doing as best as he could. This done and the night coming after a short debate, they eventually agreed to say it was too hard to continue to climb during the night, as the pair did a 15m abseil on their left and cut a short margin (large like a foot) to bivouac around 7150m. During that night Graziani broke his thermarest. The weather was absolutely perfect, no wind, not too cold.

  On the 22nd, by some still hard pitches in ice the team could reach almost the end of the main rock barrier and established its bivouac at 7400m located on the very top of the huge dihedral bordering the main rocky barrier on its left.
   
  * During that part of the climb, they could observe around the middle of the rock barrier an old 90's Friend (with a straight axis/came in French and an seemingly old dated carabiner) put in a crag on their right: maybe a vestige from Beghin-Lafaille retreat?

  As their king-size platform had a hole in the center and that they didn't at first install their tent properly, they later tended to slip slowly into the hole during the first stage of the night! Graziani fearing a fatal fall after awhile, he decided the pair should go outside and dig the platform better to make their bivouac safe. 

  On the 23rd, after some labourious attempts, in 3 to 4 pitches (including one still very hard led by Benoist) they could reach a 7550m bivouac. Benoist was often leading the ascent during main difficulties, as Graziani explained that reversible climb was very hard to manage (too exhausting to always change pitch after pitch). Thus they preferably changed after 2 or 3 pitches (more or less sometimes). 

  On the 24th, at 3 pm the pair started in 40/45-degree slopes, then climbed the small 30m (half a pitch) bastion without any protection (60 degrees in mixed ground), then again 40/45-degree snow slopes up to 200m under the top (Benoist broke the trail up to this stage, still in good shape). Then the slopes went steeper (55 to 60 degrees in mixed ground) to reach the top of the main summit ridge. From there, in 15 minutes they eventually reached the very top at 11 am. As Graziani was exactly 40 years old that day, he tried to call his mother in France (in Nice), who wouldn't unfortunately answer! 

  Then they immediately begun with the descent down to their 7550m bivy place. Most of time they would downwalk-climb without abseils the slopes (they left one piton for the 30m abseil of the rock bastion). Here Graziani could consider again that his partner was going slowly, too much so he had to shout on him: "we have to go fast, quickly!" In fact, not seeing him abseiling down the 30m bastion, calling for him with no answer, 3/4 hour after Graziani went back up to search for his companion, fearing he may have fallen to his death.

  Arrived at their 7400m bivouac, as the evening begun to turn windy and seeing his teammate's decreasing state, Graziani felt suddenly much concerned about their critical situation: comitted above a 500m rocky barrier, with 2000m more abseil and downclimb to come after. Moreover Yann Giezendaner (weather forecast engineer based in Chamonix, France) announced him new snow coming for the day after during the afternoon!

  On the 25th, Graziani woke up in advance at night to prepare the abseils. They begun it from 6:30-7:00 am, in a very good clear weather without wind. They left pitons, friends, slings, had some "fil d'araignee" abseils to overcome, but luckily the ropes didn't get stuck so they could reach the footstep of the rock barrier safely. 

  Then they traversed far on the right in very good snow conditions to be sheltered by the rock barrier above of any avalanche danger (straight above the rimaye), and stopped there at a 6900m place around 2 pm ("still too late!" says Graziani) where they dug a terrace to make some hot water. At 3 pm, they started again to abseil down on Abalakov anchors until the night. Benoist's state was continuing to decrease, Graziani managing 100% of the abseils installation. At one stage, Benoist told to Graziani: "I think I must have remained there on top": he had fallen asleep during 25 minutes whilst waiting for his turn. 

  As the night begun and Benoist wanted to stop, Graziani demanded to continue during the night (as they were still far from the rimaye, in very large 60 to 70-degree slopes), even with no more lamps (Graziani lost his one on the way up, and had no more batteries on his alternative one). Graziani proposed a system: Benoist would keep the stove working to make light whereas Graziani would install the abseil; then Graziani would take the stove with him and abseil; then his partner would join him and do the whole procedure again. At first again Benoist refused it but Graziani forced his friend to to so. Like this, with abseils getting more and more fixed on doubtful anchor points (sometimes on inverted Friends, "on shit stuff!") as they were running away, the pair eventually reached its first bivouac place  after 600m of 16 to 17 abseils at 3 am on the 26th (Graziani: "I was in trance, 100% focused on surviving ... I could really only begun to disconnect when the helicopter arrived"). This night was luckily still beautiful with no snow as it was initially expected (Graziani could work with bare hands at 6700m). Here they tried to prepare tea with no success, having maximum 3 mouthfuls of it, then they just ran away from gas. 

  On the 26th, Graziani woke up quite happy thinking they were very close now to the end of their descent, but here he had to consider that his friend was almost completely shocked now; Benoist eating snow in his bowl, Graziani shout on him: "you mustn't eat snow! Children only do that!" At 8:30 am, after 3 abseils, Graziani understood that they would never be able to reach BC's lodge by their own means and that he had to call for an heli-rescue which would pick them up from the footstep of the face, at the plateau just under the rimaye. Unfortunately, his phone didn't have enough credit for it, even if he already could briefly reach the BC lodge manager just before (JB "James Brown" Gurung!). So they continued down with some more abseils and reached eventually the rimaye at 5750m. Here they left their ropes in the rimaye as these were blocked. Soon after beginning the descent to ABC, Graziani fell into a crevasse and apparently almost broke a rib (medical diagnostic needs to be confirmed)! Then they needed 6 more hours, even in an easy glacier ground, to reach their ABC at 5000m respectively at 6 pm for Graziani and 6:30 pm for Benoist.
   
  There with only half a gas bottle left and some dried soups, Graziani realized he hadn't to waste the gas so had to find fresh water and not snow to make boiling water. So groping around, he could find in obscurity a thin water dish nearby the camp. During the night they had more hot water, Benoist breathing heavily, Graziani knowing his friend would never recover in that place.

  On the 27th, as his satellite phone had not much battery left, Graziani could used their solar panel battery luckily left at the ABC. Thus Graziani could call back BC's lodge manager to launch a rescue. JB Gurung called them back around 9 am (as Graziani was going to search for water) to announce heli-rescue was going to happen in the afternoon; as it was unfortunately cloudy this afternoon, the helicopter didn't come.

  On the 28th, eventually the helicopter could pick them up in the morning from the ABC safely to Kathmandu. As Graziani felt totally groggy after the helicopter rescue, the young French members of the Gaurishankar South Face expedition assisted them to deal with administration details (heli-rescue, hospital, insurance and repatriation questions); Graziani feeling better during the afternoon. 

  Conclusion:

  Stephane Benoist has both black frozen toes and fingers and will stay at the CIWEC hospital as long as he needs before flying back to France. His fingers and toes will have to be partly cut. He was diagnosed as well with pneumonia that he may have contracted during the descent. Benoist was telling to his wife before leaving: "I want to challenge myself very far."

  Yannick Graziani just has blisters on both big toes. He will leave Kathmandu on the 1st of November. He considers they have been too far on that climb and that it isn't a good example for young generations (as he could tell first to the Gaurishankar French team). Benoist led most of the hard pitches on the way up but lost control during the descent and wouldn't be alive without his companion ("From 6900m, I had to look after him to save our lives"). To remain secure, he considers they should have decided to retreat at the top of the rock barrier at 7500m, meaning on summit day.


expid: BARU13305
peakid: BARU
year: 2013
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Jozef Houben
sponsor: Belgian to Baruntse
approach: Tumlingtar->Makalu BC->Sherpani Col
termnote: Abandoned on 19 October due to snow conditions (impossible to reach BC)
agency: Iceland Trekking (Snowy Horizon pmt)
routememo:
  After the snow fall of 13 and 14 October, Houben was blocked during the approach march below the Sherpani Col (coming from Makalu base camp). He and his hired staff attempted 2 times to cross the pass with no success. On the 19 October they decided to go back to Kathmandu by the same approach march itinerary.

  Sherpa:
    Dawa (Salami) Sherpa, 29/12/72, Najing, Garma-3, Solukhumbu


expid: BARU13306
peakid: BARU
year: 2013
route1: ESE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Mehdi Van Haver
sponsor: Baruntse French-Swiss Expedition
countries: Switzerland
approach: Lukla->Khare->Mera La->Hunku Valley
bcdate: 2013-10-06
smtdate: 2013-11-10
termdate: 2013-10-13
termnote: Abandoned at 6426m due to knee problem for Robin Avanthag
campsites: BC(06/10,5400m),C1(08/10,6160m),C2(10/10,6426m),xxx(10/11,6426m)
accidents: Knee problems for Robin Avanthay
agency: Corsa Nepal Adventure (Snowy Horizon pmt)
routememo:
  On the 7th October, Mehdi went alone for a deposit of gear (food, ropes etc) at C1. As soon as he came at the bottom of the corridor leading to C1, the wind was just too strong so he deposited all his gear here at 5800m.

  On the 8th October, Mehdi climbed alone again to find his equipment partly eaten by the crows, but continued anyway up to C1 for sleeping there, with just some energetic bars to eat.

  On the 10th October, both climbed up to their bivouac place (6426m according to their GPS), Robin feeling some pain to his knees.

  On the 11th of October, Robin feeling very badly with his knees (inflammation) decided to retreat to the BC. Even in good shape for the summit, Mehdi decided to go down with his teammate. 

  Both were the first to climb for the summit, with no tracks at all, in an alternatively wind-hardened or soft snow (sometimes up to just under the knees). They had just one attempt left by their schedule.

  Mehdi reported that when they left (on the 13th of October), the Seven Summit Adventure Sherpas were 200m close from the summit (their team consisting in 7 Russians + 3 Sherpas), their clients going up for C1 that same day. Summit expected on the 16th or 17th of October.

  Apparently 2 Czech people (with Snowy Horizon) were blocked during one week in bad weather on the mountain, waiting to be heli-rescued.


expid: BARU13307
peakid: BARU
year: 2013
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Estonia
leaders: Tarmo Riga
sponsor: Estonian Baruntse Expedition 2013
bcdate: 2013-10-25
smtdate: 2013-10-25
termdate: 2013-10-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to bad weather and Jame Riga's poor health
othersmts: Summited Mera Peak (Oct 22)
campsites: BC(25/10,5300m),xxx(27/10,6000m)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  The two-member team, man and wife, first climbed Mera Peak (summited it on 22 October) and then proceeded to Baruntse. They made their BC at the usual site near the lake at 5300m on 25 October.

  On the 27th, when Jane Riga, was not feeling well, Tarmo Riga went alone to about 6000m at the bottom of the west side of the West Col to deposit gear for C1, and returned the same day to BC.

  Jane Riga's vision had become blurred and she had a feeling of pressure inside her head; perhaps she was in the early stage of cerebral edema. For this reason, as well as because the mountain was covered with powder snow, bad weather was now forecast, and it was getting quite cold (-15 C at BC), they decided on the 27th to abandon the climb.

  They left BC on the 28th by helicopter from BC to Lukla and flew by plane to Kathmandu on the 31st.


expid: BARU13308
peakid: BARU
year: 2013
route1: SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Suneel Saini
sponsor: Snowy Horizon Baruntse Expedition 2013
approach: Lukla->Mera La->Setopokhari
bcdate: 2013-10-12
smtdate: 2013-10-12
termdate: 2013-10-18
termnote: Abandoned at 5250m due to too much snow
othersmts: Summited Mera Peak
campsites: BC(12/10,5250m),xxx
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  We had 3 days of continous snow at BC on 13-15 Oct, eventually accumulation about 7-8 feet. A Russian army team's Sherpas fixed rope up to the summit the same day we got to BC. However given the amount of snowfall and the likelihood that fresh ropes will need to be fixed, they abandoned the climb and left on 16 Oct. There was another Czech team comprising of 4 members and I shared my permit with them. They got to BC few days earlier as I was doing Mera Peak. Two of the experienced members including the gentleman named as expedition leader on our permit attempted to climb from the front wall facing the camp before the snowfall while the other two members went up to C1, left supplies and returned. Unfortunately, nobody heard from the first team for 8 days. I was rather appalled at the apathy of both the other team members and the tour organiser in calling the rescue helicopter despite there being very good weather window for 3 days. There were three other young Argentinian climbers at BC, who also decided to abandon their attempt as general consensus was that it will be at least 7-10 days before snow settles enough to go further.

  I also hired a helicopter on 18 Oct and returned to Lukla with my Sherpa on 18 Oct.  Apologies for not getting in touch in KTM as I flew to Delhi same day. I have been in touch with my tour operator since and as expected there has been no good news about these Czech climbers. I would like to bring to your attention that I believe that a rescue should have been called earlier to look for those hard-headed mountaineers and may be that would have saved their lives. It just highlights poor safety culture among the tour operators. One would expect better, given the sort of money that changes hands in climbing these mountain.

  Note: 2 porters & teahouse owner died at Sethopokhari after their stonehut collpased under snow. Those two Czech climbers are still unaccounted for last I heard.


expid: BARU13309
peakid: BARU
year: 2013
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Argentina
leaders: Martin Lucero
sponsor: Argentinian Baruntse Expedition
approach: Chutunga->Jetra La->Kote->Tangnag->Khare->Kongmedingma->Setopokhari
bcdate: 2013-10-12
smtdate: 2013-10-12
termdate: 2013-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 5400m due to continuous snowfall
othersmts: Summited Mera Peak on 23 Oct
campsites: BC(12/10,5400m),xxx
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  The Lucero team waited for good weather to start climbing, but there was snowfall everyday and decided to quit and went to Mera Peak.


expid: BARU13310
peakid: BARU
year: 2013
route1: W Face of SE Ridge
route2: SE Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Petr Machold
sponsor: Czech Baruntse Expedition
approach: Chaurikharka->Tangnag->Khare->Setopokhari
bcdate: 2013-10-07
smtdate: 2013-10-12
termdate: 2013-10-19
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to disappearance of two members
campsites: BC(07/10,5450m),C1(10/10,5800m),C2(11/10,6200m),C3(12/10,6600m),xxx(12/10,6600m)
accidents: Machold and Vanek disappeared
agency: Green Horizon Tours (Snowy Horizon pmt)
routememo:
  Team (A) West Face of SE Ridge (Machold and Vanek)
    BC   7 October at 5450m
    C1   7 October at 5800m
    C2  11 October at 6200m
    C3  12 October at 6600m

  Team (B) SE ridge
    BC   9 October at 5450m
    C1  12 October at 6150m

  Climb abandoned on 12 October

  Death 2 members of Team (A); no contact since 12 October.

  From 13 October there was heavy snowfall for three days. There was more than 2 meters of snow at BC. Team (B) tried to reach C1 on 17, 18 and 19 but could not get there due to chest-deep snow. Their tent was there at C1.

  On 12 October Team (B) tried to contact team (A) on West Face, but there weas no response. Tent of Team (A) seen on 16 October at the same place of 12 October. On 17 October Team (B) asked for helicopter search. The search was done on 18 October by Simrik Helicopter, but except spotting the tent from far it could not do something more because of air pressure. The helicopter again went on search on 19 October, but due to wind conditions it had to abort the search work. Remaining two members returned to Kathmandu on same helicopter.


expid: CHUB13301
peakid: CHUB
year: 2013
route1: W Face
nation: UK
leaders: Brian Jackson
sponsor: The 152 Club Chhuboche 2013
ascent1: 1st
bcdate: 2013-11-12
smtdate: 2013-11-16
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2013-11-18
campsites: BC(12/11,4600m),Smt(16/11)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  Chhuboche is north-northeast of Pisang Peak, a well-known trekking peak. The approach march to BC began at the end of the a bus ride from Kathmandu to Besisahar on the Marshyangdi River and north along the river to Bhulbhule. From there they trekked along the river to Jagat, Dharapani, and still following the river, west-northwest to Koto. Here they left the river and went north, up the Naar Khola to Naar village, where they left the khola and trekked north from Naar to their BC site at the foot of West Face of Chhuboche. They had left Kathmandu on 6 November and arrived at BC on the 12th.

  By now Wrightson had stomach trouble and Foster had a chest infection. On the 14th, Jackson and Pasang climbed up to point 5610m on Chhuboche's NW Ridge. They had left BC at 7:30 am, traversed the NW Face at 4800m, moved up to a col at 5300m and from there followed the ridge to the 5610m summit at 12:30 pm. They returned to BC at 3:30 pm.

  On the 16th, Jackson, Wrightson, Pasang and Tendi Wangya went to their main objective, Chhuboche's West Face. They left BC at 5:00 am and climbed to 5000m up the face to a col, where they then followed the SE Ridge to the summit at 12:00 noon. They returned to BC at 4:00 pm.

  The face was covered with powder snow, which made progress very difficult, but they managed to scale it to the ridge. However, the ridge was no easy walk to the top: there was knee-deep snow in patches, and other sections where they had to crawl up.

  The Nepalese government assigns an altitude of 5602m to Chhuboche, but Jackson said several GPS readings gave it as 5640m. [Note: There is a slightly higher peak of 5627m just south-southeast of the 5602m peak given on the HMG-Finn map.]

  They left BC on 18 November and followed their approach route back to Bhulbhule and Besisahar.


expid: CHWT13101
peakid: CHWT
year: 2013
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
sponsor: Grobel Changwatang Expedition 2013
approach: Simikot->Yangar->Rhun Khola
bcdate: 2013-05-20
smtdate: 2013-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 5580m due to snow in high passes
campsites: BC(20/05,4350m),C1(20/05,5225m),xxx(21/05,5580m)
agency: Yeti Adventure
routememo:
  This expedition actually intended to climb Ardana Peak (6034m), but since it is not on the permitted list, Grobel obtained a permit for nearby Changwatang (6125m). In the event, they did not climb either one.

  They flew west from Kathmandu 12 May to Nepalgunj and on the 14th flew north to Simikot. They trekked from there to Yangar, then north to Phutkharka, where they established a BC on 20 May at 4350m on the moraine and made their C1 at 5225m on the Ardana Glacier. All members and their two high-altitude workers climbed up to the Ardana Pass at 5580m on 21 May. 

  Hired:
    Dhan Bahadur Magar, 24/4/86, Wapsa-8, Solu
    Bishal Rai, 25 years old, Dharan, Sunsari district


expid: EVER13188
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Neeraj Rana
sponsor: Ocean to Sky Everest 2013
bcdate: 2013-04-18
smtdate: 2013-05-22
termdate: 2013-05-26
campsites: BC(18/04,5350m),C1(26/04,6000m),C2(02/05,6400m),C3(19/05,7350m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(22/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Summit team left C4 at 7:30 pm on 21 May. Perfect conditions, little wind. They spent about 15 minutes on summit and descended to C2, where they spent the night. Saachi reached 7400m on 20 May. She was too slow and abandoned expedition.


  From Indian media (DNA):

  Twenty one-year-old Priyanka Mangesh Mohite became the youngest Maharashtrian girl to scale Mt Everest on Wednesday. She created a record by becoming the third youngest Indian to do so.

  On April 9, a group of eight boys and three girls in the age group of 11 to 15 years began their expedition under the banner of Ocean to Sky from Haryana. On May 19, they started from Kimchar and scaled 29,048 ft at dawn.


expid: EVER13187
peakid: EVER
year: 2013
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Ujjal Ray
sponsor: Indian Everest Expedition 2013
approach: Lukla->Namche->Deboche->Lobuche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2013-04-12
smtdate: 2013-05-19
smttime: 0705
termdate: 2013-05-23
campsites: BC(12/04,5300m),C1(24/04,6100m),C2(30/04,6400m),C3(16/05,7200m),C4(17/05,8000m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Loben Expeditions
routememo:
  Ray, Nandy, Sanu and Karma started their summit push from South Col (C4) at 7:30 pm on 18 May. They got to the top at 7:05 am of 19 May and stayed on summit for about 30 minutes, then descended to C4. Next day 20 May they went down to C2 and the following day 21 May to BC. There were 15 to 20 climbers ahead of them on the summit.

  Sherpas:
    Sanu Sherpa, 30/4/75 (17/01/2032), Walung, Makalu-9, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X4, 
      Lhotse X1, Manaslu X1
    Karma Sherpa, Solu
    Dorje Sherpa, Tamku, Yaphu, Sankhuwasabha


expid: GIMM13301
peakid: GIMM
year: 2013
route1: SW Face-W Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jean Annequin
sponsor: Gimmigela Chuli French Expedition 2013
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 2013-11-15
smtdate: 2013-11-21
termdate: 2013-12-02
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to deep snow and wind
campsites: BC(15/11,5100m),ABC(18/11,5100m),C1(20/11,5950m),xxx(21/11,6000m)
agency: Expes.com Treks
routememo:
  The team approached their mountain up the Tamur River to and up the Ghunsa Khola, northeast to Ghunsa village and Lhonak, then east to Pangpema. They made their BC at Pangpema (5100m) and their ABC at the southeast end (source) of the Kangchenjunga Glacier at 5100m. Their route from BC to ABC required them to lose altitude and then regain it.

  They made ABC on 18 November, and on the 20th they pitched C1 at the bottom of the South Face at 5950m. Their plan was to climb the face to its junction with the West Ridge at about 6700m and then to follow the ridge to the summit.

  However, the six climbers were stopped from going higher than 6000m on the 21st by deep snow on the ridge, which meant serious danger of avalanching. There had been heavy snowfall before they arrived at BC. During their brief climb, they had fine weather, but there was a strong wind blowing. They now retreated to C1 the same day and to BC on the 22nd.

  Their climb was over. They could not safely scale the West Ridge from its start because of loose rock and then the ridge became quite steep.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Sherpa, (16/5/2039), Chheskam-3, Solu


expid: GYAJ13301
peakid: GYAJ
year: 2013
route1: NW Ridge (up); S Face of NW Ridge (down)
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
sponsor: Paulo Gyajikang Expedition 2013
bcdate: 2013-10-26
smtdate: 2013-11-05
campsites: BC(26/10,4650m),ABC(28/10,5350m),C1(30/10,5700m),C2(02/11,5850m),C3(04/11,6100m),xxx(05/11,6500m)
agency: Yeti Adventure
routememo:
  The team made steady progress up the NW Ridge, pitching four camps along the ridge until five members and two Sherpas reached a small summit at 6500m on 5 November in their bid to reach the main summit. They were Baillie, Blanc, Ernst, Gaillic and Hiriart with Jangbu Sherpa and Dhan Bahadur Magar.

  They had left C3 at 6100m for the top at 8:00 am on 5 November and took five hours to reach 6500m (at 1:00 pm), the normal site for C3. Then they gave up their summit attempt because of the waist-deep snow.

  They retreated to C3, where they arrived at 3:00 pm, and slept there that night. Then on the 6th the team descended by a different line from their ascent route: they came down the south face of the NW Ridge to the Congli Glacier at 5600m, where they made their final camp.

  On the 7th they left the mountain and trekked to Phu village.

  Sherpas:
    Dhan Bahadur Magar, 24/1/86 (11/10/2042), Wapsa-8, Solu
    Jangbu Sherpa, 23/4/88, Bupsa, Jubing-5, Solu


expid: HIML13303
peakid: HIML
year: 2013
route1: W Ridge from SW
nation: France
leaders: Francois Boehm
sponsor: Club Alpin Francais Colmar Expedition to Himlung Peak
ascent1: 48th
approach: Annapurna trail->Koto->Phu
bcdate: 2013-10-17
smtdate: 2013-10-30
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2013-11-03
campsites: BC(17/10,4850m),C1(20/10,5550m),C2(22/10,6040m),C3(29/10,6400m),Smt(30/10)
achievment: aka Valerie Schickler
agency: Churen Himal Treks
routememo:
  On 19 Oct: go back to C1 from BC
  On 20 Oct: first night at C1
  On 21 Oct: go back to C2 from C1, slept in C1
  On 22 Oct: first night at C2
  On 23 Oct: all back to BC, then 3 days of rest

  On 27 Oct to C1
  On 28 Oct to C2
  On 29 Oct to C3

  On 30 October (summit day): started at 2:15 am, reached summit at 11 am, back to C3 at 4 pm.

  All members summited except Sophie Schickler who went to her high point the night of the 22 October at C2 (this night she fell sick, then stayed at BC).

  All hired Nepalese summited except Mulal Gurung (who broke the trail up to 6500m at the foot of the final wall before leaving - normally he wasn't allowed by his doctor to climb, as he had a medical treatment for kidney stones).

  Boehm considers the hired Nepalese did a great job breaking the trail, all other expeditions waiting for them to do the job.

  On 31 October they were back to BC from C3.

  Hired Nepalese:
    Aash Bahadur Gurung, 04/13/2040, Laprak-3 Gorkha
    Sudash Lama
    Karna Bahadur Tamang
    Pasang Karma Sherpa, Bupsa, Solu (died in Everest avalanche)
    Mulal Gurung, Laprak-3, 01/04/71


expid: HIML13304
peakid: HIML
year: 2013
route1: W Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Zachary Poulton
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Himlung Expedition 2013
ascent1: 50th
countries: Denmark
approach: Besisahar->Chyamche->Dharapani->Koto->Meta->Kyang->Phu
bcdate: 2013-10-22
smtdate: 2013-10-30
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2013-11-03
campsites: BC(22/10,4800m),C1(24/10,5650m),C2(25/10,6050m),C3(29/10,6350m),Smt(30/10)
accidents: Minor frostbite in right-hand ring finger of Moreten while descending from summit
agency: Makalu Adventure
routememo:
  The expedition leader Poulton, members Bojsen, Gibson, Morton, Taylor together with climbing Sherpas Phurba Wangchu, Pasang Nurbu, Lhakpa and Karma leat C3 at 2 am on 30th October for summit. Taylor reached to the top at 11:30 am with Phurba, Poulton at 12 noon, Moreton and Lhakpa at 12:45 pm, Gibson and Pasang at 1:15 pm and Bojsen at 1:45 pm with Karma. They stayed on summit for about 30 minutes each and descended to C3 between 4 pm and 8 pm. Next day 31 October all went down to BC. Poulton said that there was lots of snow and cold.

  High points for other members: Boardman went up to 5500m below C1, Grifith up to C1 and Knight climbed up to 5600m on 24 October. All three had sore throats and cough. They left expedition earlier. Moreton left BC by helicopter on 2 November.

  There were about 10 other climbers who summited on same day. Between 6 to 10 climbers mainly French and Germans turned around from the shoulder.

  Sherpas:
    Karma, 20/8/86, Makalu-5, Sankhuwasabha
    Phurba Wangchu, 5/12/75, Waku-9, Solu, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X3, Lhotse X1
    Pasang Nurbu, 21/12/72, Makalu-9, Sankhuwasabha, Everest X6, Kangch X1
    Lhakpa Sherpa, 23/11/82, Rakha Bangdel-5, Khotang, Everest X1, Kangch X1


expid: HIML13305
peakid: HIML
year: 2013
route1: NE Face
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Ronnie Van Den Broek
sponsor: Dutch Himlung Himal Expedition
approach: Koto->Phu
bcdate: 2013-09-30
smtdate: 2013-10-08
termdate: 2013-10-14
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to chance of avalanche, bad weather
campsites: BC(30/09,4800m),C1(04/10,5600m),C2(08/10,6000m),xxx(08/10,6000m)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  On the 4th October Hanerink, Tinnemans, van De Reep and Vrolijk went to C1, then back to the BC the day after. Then they had bad weather, staying at the BC.

  On the 7th October, the entire team slept at C1. On the 8th October, Hanerink and Tinnemans went to C2, then directly back to BC. Vrolijk spent the night again at C1, then went back to the BC the day after. Hanerink, Tinnemans and van De Reep directly went back to BC.

  From the 9th to the 11th, everyone stayed at the BC waiting for the good weather.

  On the 11th the team decided to stop the expedition due to avalanche danger, then to clean the camps next two days.

  On the 12th October, Hanerink, Tinnemans, van De Reep and van den Broek went to C1 with the two Sherpas. Hanerink and Van den Broek slept there, whereas Tinnemans and van de Reep went back to the BC.

  On the 13th October, Hanerink went back to the BC, whereas Vrolijk went with the two Sherpas to C2 to take off all their equipment, then same at C1, then back to BC.

  Sherpas:
    Tendi Sherpa, Tapting-6, 1954 (26 yrs in 19/7/80 - 2037/11/4), Cho Oyu 2006
    Dorje Sherpa, 22/6/70 (8/3/2027), Dimbil, Tapting-9, Solu, Lhotse X1, Makalu X1,
      Cho Oyu X1


expid: HIML13306
peakid: HIML
year: 2013
route1: W Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Martina Juda
sponsor: International Himlung Expedition 2013
countries: Italy
approach: Koto->Phu
bcdate: 2013-09-30
smtdate: 2013-10-10
termdate: 2013-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to avalanche danger, weather forecase and lack of Sherpa support
campsites: BC(30/09,4800m),C1(03/10,5700m),C1B(06/10,5900m),C2(10/10,6000m),xxx(10/10,6200m)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  After the death of 3 Sherpas of another team (this team having left), the duo was at first alone for climbing up on the mountain.

  Climbing in autonomy, the duo did three respective ascents to C1, C1B and C2, each time starting from base camp and going there directly, then going back to the base camp the day after. 

  Above C2, the conditions with a notable avalanche danger added with the altitude and no Sherpa support forced them to abort their attempt, definitely when they heard about a bad weather period coming from the 11th October. In fact it seems that after the 10th October, according to them, nobody climbed above C2.

  The duo didn't used any of the ropes fixed by the New Zealanders and Dutch Sherpas between C1 and C1B (even the one fixed by the Dutch Sherpas around the 8th October from C1B to C2, which appeared not to be very useful).


expid: HIML13307
peakid: HIML
year: 2013
route1: W Ridge from SW
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Andreas Neuschmid
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Himlung Expedition 2013
ascent1: 53rd
countries: Austria, Germany
approach: Koto->Phu
bcdate: 2013-10-26
smtdate: 2013-11-05
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2013-11-09
campsites: BC(26/10,4800m),C1(28/10,5400m),C2(04/11,6200m),Smt(05/11)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  BC  26 Oct  4800m
  C1  28 Oct  5400m	
  C2  04 Nov  6200m
  Smt 05 Nov  by Rath at 10 am, Kobler at 10:15 am, Gutschlofer at 10:30 am, 
              Stabul at 10:45 am, Sieverking, Schloeder, von Daeniken and 
              Neuschmid at 12:05 pm, Rink and Kancha Lama at 1:30 pm, 
              plus six other Sherpas.

  Summit team left C2 at 5 am. Weather was cloudy and very windy, with winds reaching a speed of about 40/kmh. Everyone stayed about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where the last person arrived at at around 4 pm.

  Kotzenberg reached 6900m on 5 Nov at 1:15 pm; he turned back due to exhaustion and descended to C2.

  Meier reached C2 4 Nov; she abandoned expedition due to exhaustion.

  Werner reached 5800m on 1 Nov, but the climb was too difficult for her; she was out of her depth.

  Furtner reached 5600m on 1 Nov; he felt dizzy and descended to BC.

  Vogel reached C2 on 4 Nov; he was exhausted and abandoned expedition.

  Lemperle reached C2 on 4 Nov; he was exhausted and returned to BC.

  Sherpas:
    Kancha Lama, 19/11/82, Taksindu-2, Solu


expid: HIML13309
peakid: HIML
year: 2013
route1: W Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Lutz Feldmann
sponsor: Diamir Himlung Expedition 2013
ascent1: 51st
countries: Austria, Slovakia
approach: Annapurna trail->Koto->Phu
bcdate: 2013-10-19
smtdate: 2013-10-30
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2013-11-02
campsites: BC(19/10,4830m),C1(23/10,5600m),C2(28/10,6100m),C3(29/10,6400m),Smt(30/10)
agency: Multi Adventure
routememo:
  Feldmann would stay at BC the entire expedition.

  Scholze felt sick already at the BC, so had to wait for the expedition in a village below BC. He never climbed above BC.

  On the 23 October: the entire team slept at C1 except Feldmann and Scholze who stayed in BC.

  On the 27 October Eppendorfer and Schirmer slept at C1.

  On the 28 October Giesinger, Kaml, Lademann and Lindner went to sleep at C1. Same day Faber, Guenther and Tekas went to sleep at C2 with Eppendorger and Schirmer.

  On the 29th October: Eppendorfer, Faber, Guenther, Schirmer and Lila Tamang slept at C3. Kaml and Lademann slept at C2, where as Giesinger, Lindner and Tekas went back to BC.

  On the 30th October: Eppendorfer, Faber, Guenther, Schirmer and Lila Tamang went to the summit (started at 4 am, summited at 12 noon, back to C3 at 6 pm). Meanwhile Kaml, Lademann and Jamba Sherpa went from C2 to C3, Kaml and Jamba coming back to the BC on the same day.

  Hired:
    Jamba Sherpa, Tapting, Solu
    Lila Bahadur Tamang, 15/10/66, Khaimrang, Sardikhola-5, Kaski, Everest X2,
      Cho Oyu X2, Makalu X1


expid: HIML13310
peakid: HIML
year: 2013
route1: W Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Axel Block
sponsor: Brothers Block to Himlung
ascent1: 49th
approach: Besisahar->Koto->Phu
bcdate: 2013-10-22
smtdate: 2013-10-30
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2013-11-02
campsites: BC(22/10,4810m),C1(24/10,5620m),C2(27/10,6105m),C3(28-30/10,6485m),Smt(30/10)
accidents: Light frostbite on the major finger of the right hand for Jens Block
agency: Mountain Sherpa Trekking
routememo:
  Summit day: started at 4:30 am, summited at 11 am, back to C3 at 5:30 pm. All back to the BC the day after. The trio met with strong winds from C3 to summit, which was enveloped by clouds.

  Sonam Sherpa, 21 years old, Chaurikharka?


expid: HIML13311
peakid: HIML
year: 2013
route1: W Face
nation: Turkey
leaders: Tunc Findik
sponsor: Himlung Himal 2013
ascent1: 52nd
countries: Switzerland, USA
approach: Annapurna trail->Koto->Phu
bcdate: 2013-10-23
smtdate: 2013-10-31
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2013-10-26
campsites: BC(23/10,4800m),C1(25/10,5600m),C2(26/10,6120m),xxx(26,27/10,6180m),Smt(31/10)
agency: Dawa Sherpa
routememo:
  The team had just one attempt left on the mountain by its schedule, so, with relatively inexperienced members, the weather being too windy for the summit and at C3, the leader decided to cancel the expedition.

  Gunduz didn't climb at all, leaving the expedition for sickness from Chyamche (during the approach march). 

  Kogak didn't climb above BC as he was sick and stayed at BC.

  Sproul almost reached C2 at 6000m, then went back the same day (on 26 Oct) to C1, then the day after to BC, with Bermek, Emir and Kavlak.

  Bermak, Emir and Kavlak reached C2 at 6120m, then went back to C1 the day after then the day after to BC.

  As the team decided to abandon and left BC on the 30 October. Guntis Brands decided however to wait a bit more time for a new attempt with Karna Bahadur Tamang.

  On the 29th October he and Karna Bahadur went from BC to C2 sleeping there. After the duo reached C3, on the 31 October the duo came to summit at 2 pm in strong wind conditions about 80 kms per hour. Then went back the evening at C3 for sleeping.

  On the 1 November, the duo went back to BC and left it on the 3 November to reach Kathmandu two days later. Guntis Brand will leave Kathmandu on 9 November.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Sherpa (sirdar), 16/6/69, Tamakhani, Loding, Solukhumbu (didn't climb)
    Kaila Tamang, 31/7/72, Thulo, Parsel-9, Kavre
    Karna Bahadur Tamang, 6/5/84, Tapting-7, Solukhumbu
    Sange Sherpa, 20/9/73, Sotang-6, Solukhumbu

  Kaila Tamang and Sange Sherpa reached C2 at high point with Tunc Findik main group; Karna Tamang reached summit with Guntis Brand after the group.


expid: JANK13301
peakid: JANK
year: 2013
route1: SW Face of SW Ridge of E Smt
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiroshi Hagiwara
sponsor: Aoyama University People Janak Chuli East Expedition 2013
bcdate: 2013-09-24
smtdate: 2013-10-11
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2013-10-15
campsites: BC(24/09,5200m),C1(01/10,5600m),C2(05/10,5870m),C3(09/10,6450m),E.Smt(11/10,6893m)
accidents: Furushiro's edema
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  BC on left side of Chhyatungdinga (Broken) Glacier
  C1 just before glacier opens wide (5600m)
  C2 on open glacier at foot of SW Face (5870m)
  C3 on SW Face (6450m).

  The team's goal was the top of the East Summit (6893m), not the main summit, and they reached their goal.

  Three members made an unsuccessful bid to reach the East Summit on 10 October. They were Hagiwara, Honda and Murakami with three Tamangs, Kitap Sing, Ram Kaji and Tul Bahadur. But they got no higher than 6700m before it was too late to carry on: the snow covering the main technical difficulties on that lay ahead to reach the final two pitches to reach the easy final ridge to the top. While the Tamangs fixed more rope, they retreated to C3 for the night.

  The next day at 6:00 am they set off again and were successful this time. Hagiwara and the three Tamangs summited at 12:30 mid-day and were followed an hour later by Honda and Murakami. They had managed to fix 1800 meters of rope from C2 to the east summit.

  All were down in C2 at 7:30 pm and in BC the next day. Then they were stuck in BC for three days by heavy snowfall that produced a cover one meter deep before it stopped. They were able to leave BC only on 15 October for Lhonak. 

  For them to carry on to the main summit (7041m) would have been very difficult. They did not have enough strength for that.

  Non-summiting members:

  Furushiro reached C2 with the team, but then developed the early stage of pulmonary edema and went back to BC, where he stayed until they all left together. He used oxygen for an hour in C2 and during his descent to C1.

  Mashimo and Nakanishi were young students with little climbing experience. They spents the entire climbing period in BC as planned.

  Fixed Rope:

  1800m were fixed from C2 to C3 too nearly summit. The steepest part from C3 to final ridge was fully equipped, same for the final ridge, even less difficult. 

  Oxygen: 
    Furushiro used oxygen for medical use at C2 (headache and stomach's problems).

  Hired:
    Kitap Sing Tamang, 30/8/76, Deusa-6, Solu, Everest X1, Manaslu X2
    Ram Kaji Tamang, 10/6/77, Deusa-6, Solu, no 8000ers
    Tul Bahadur Tamang, 30/8/66, Deusa-6, Solu


expid: KOJI13301
peakid: KOJI
year: 2013
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Marcin Pius
sponsor: International Kojichuwa Expedition
countries: Australia, Lebanon
bcdate: 2013-11-08
termdate: 2013-11-17
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
routememo:
  The team took a bus from Kathmandu and a flight to a small landing field at Talcha, southeast of Rara Lake. They trekked to BC, which they pitched on 8 November. They had taken with them a Nepalese guide to lead them to the correct valley from which to climb the mountain's NW Ridge.

  The guide unfortunately took them into the wrong valley. They discovered this mistake after a few days, but in the meantime they divided into two groups: on the 14th and 15th Pius and Sowlinski made a recce up the Koji Khola valley to 5300m; they should have been in the next valley to the north, but were unable to cross into the Kojichuwa valley so returned to BC on the 15th.

  The other members climbed a 5336m peak north of BC on 15 November and went back to BC the same day.

  The team had no time to trek into the correct valley and then climb the mountain. Their plans for an ascent of Kojichuwa Chuli were now abandoned and they left BC on the 17th.

  One member, Rabih Bo Said, got frostbite on three toes, but this will heal.


expid: LHOT13301
peakid: LHOT
year: 2013
route1: W Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Edmond Joyeusaz
sponsor: Lhotse Ski Challenge 2013
approach: Lukla->Gokyo->Chola Pass->Everest BC
bcdate: 2013-09-14
smtdate: 2013-10-01
termdate: 2013-10-13
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to snow and weather conditions, lack of equipment and Sherpa support
campsites: BC(14/09,5300m),C1(30/09,6100m),xxx(01/10,6100m)
agency: Amici Trek
routememo:
  The light team of Edmond Joyeusaz and Federico Colli intended to climb the Lhotse normal route in alpine style and descend it by skiing. Their autumn attempt can be summarized as follows:

  On the 17th September, the pair went with 2 Sherpas (Pasang and Dorje Sherpa) up to 5820m through a not completely equipped icefall, meeting 3 times 15m walls of ice. Both Sheras (according to them experienced with 8 and 13 ascents of Everest) had apparently never climbed properly on ice with technical ice axes and crampons, so that the Italians had to belay them carefully. The team couldn't reach C1 that day.

  Immediately after this attempt, both Sherpas left BC, considering the ascent to be too dangerous (the Italians consider both of these Sherpas not skilled enough technically; moreover they were amused to see them deciding what to do at the beginning of the expedition whilst wearing very elegant jackets and most of time playing with their iPhones).

  On the 20th September, Emdond and Federico went alone to C1, still in alpine style through the icefall, slept there and went back to the BC the day after.

  On the 24th September, 2 new Sherpas came, sent by Amici Treks. Then the Italians had a meeting with the Koreans, the latter explaining to them that it would take them at least 2 weeks to equip the icefall with their 4 Sherpas. It would cost 1500 Euros to the Italians to use their fixed ropes. Just after this meeting, during the night both newly arrived Sherpas left BC, the Italians being a new time on their own. (Even if these Sherpas never went above BC, just for one day and left on their own, Amici Treks asked the Italians to pay them.)

  After a few days, 2 new Sherpas of Amici Treks were coming again. The whole team reached C1 on the 30th September, thanks to the freshly new equipped route operated by the Koreans. They slept there, then the day after Federico and Edmond went only 100m further in deep snow (above the hips) with no possibility to continue. The same day the team was back to the BC.

  On the 9th October, considering the mountain conditions (Koreans couldn't apparently go further than C1 during the same period) and the time remaining both for the ski permit and visa, the Italians decided to stop the expedition.

  The day after, Federico went up again to C1 with the two Sherpas, Federico skiing all the way down to the BC in minor snow conditions (his descent happened in the center of the icefall, just near the ascent route) and waiting for them to take  pictures.

  Most of the time the team had to work hard between BC and C1 to bring their supplies of equipment for the higher camps. This because every day, there was snowfall during the afternoon and night, every day bringing new fresh 30 to 40 cms layers of snow. Only during the changing of moon phase were 4 days of clear weather, but with strong north winds, even blowing of some tents of the BC. The glacier itself was moving a lot, as they could discover with one crevasse growing from 50cms to 6m within a weeks. (These Sherpas were paid directly by the Italians and they paid for their insurance directly to the agency whilst in Kathmandu).

  At first, the Italians considered that the agency didn't take their expedition seriously. Thus the agency didn't even take the ski descent permit (this one was eventually taken for 2120 Euros, for only 10 days period going from 9th October to the 19th October. They believe that the Nepalis thought that the Italians would be afraid of the mountan and would quickly abandon their project.

  After that, there as an article written by Reinhold Messner on 23rd September in the Gazetta dello Sport, critizing some evolutions of the Sherpas' behaviour within commercial expeditions. The Italians had the unfortunate idea to show it to the liaison officer and their cook as way to ask them to motivate the Sherpas, but on the contrary this created an anger against them, moreover after Moro's last spring story. Thus the liaison officer accused then not to have taken their ski descent permit, which was true due to the omission of Amici Treks. And a short time after, an article was published in the Himalayan Times (8th October), showing a picture (taken from the blog) of the Italians posing with their skis under the icefall, officially telling that they were out of law for a ski descent on Lhotse.

  Sherpas (by order of appearance during expedition):
    Pasang Sherpa
    Dorje Sherpa
    Palden Namgye Sherpa, 20/9/72 (4/6/2029), Phortse, Khumbu
    Namgya Sherpa, Phortse?

  Oxygen: taken for emergency/medical use only, not used.


expid: LHOT13302
peakid: LHOT
year: 2013
route1: W Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Hong Sung-Taek
sponsor: Korean 2013 Lhotse Expedition
approach: Monjo->Namche->Tengboche->Pheriche->Lobuche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2013-09-23
smtdate: 2013-10-29
termdate: 2013-11-07
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to very high winds
campsites: BC(23/09,5300m),C1(28/09,6000m),C2(03/10,6400m),C3(24/10,7300m),xxx(29/10,7900m)
agency: NE-KO Treks
routememo:
  In their [summit] attempt on 31 October, Choi Jae-Yeong, Choi Jin-Chul, Eun, Hong, Jeon, Kim and Woo had to turn arond from C3 and back to C2 due to strong storm with winds of 70 nautical miles. It was impossible to stay at C3. Next day the team went down to BC. On 5 November Hong left BC to C1 alone. On 6th Hong continued toward C2. He found that the ladder (two joined together) on a crevasse between C1 and C2 fell down into crevasse. Hong managed to cross the crevasse and reached C2. There was sporadic storm and very cold so he returned to BC where he arrived at 8 pm. Weather was warm until October end and with the start of November it became very cold. 

  Shin went up to C2 and left expedition on 3 November.

  Earlier fixed line between C2 to C3 was swept away by a big avalanche. The team had to buy new ropes about 1500m from Namche which was very expensive.

  The team then went to south side BC of Lhotse on 8 November. They did not stay there due to strong wind and went to Gorak Shep same day. There was half a meter snow all the way to Gorak Shep. No climbing Sherpas on south side.


  Pasang Namgyal - 6 January 2014

  In autumn seasons no "icefall doctors" are employed to keep the route through the Khumbu Icefall open for the many teams that attempt Everest and Lhotse in the spring season. The Korean Lhotse team in the autumn of 2013 had to fend for themselves.

  Pasang Namgyal Sherpa, who was with the Korean Lhotse expedition, said that the team's four Sherpas, including himself, were kept busy putting in fixed lines through the Khumbu Icefall and replacing team as they were rendered useless by the Icefall's movements. The route collapsed "many times, especially in the middle" he said. They re-fixed the ropes unusually fast (in three days) because of special incentive pay from the Koreans to do so. They fixed a total of 1800m of rope to keep the route open.

  It was not only in the Icefall that they had to fix and re-fix the lines. From C2 (6400m) to C3 (7300m) they used 2600m of rope after a snowstorm that lasted continously for three days and caused a lot of avalanching, and 300m from C3 to the team's high point (7900m).

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Namgyal Sherpa, 25/11/72, Khumjung, Khumbu
    Sanu Sherpa, 30/4/75, Walung, Makalu-9
    Phur Gyalzen, 16/4/70, Yilajung, Khumbu
    Bir Kaji Tamang, 10/12/78, Gorakhami-4, Solu


expid: LUNR13301
peakid: LUNR
year: 2013
route1: SW Face
nation: USA
leaders: David Gottlieb
sponsor: Jobo Rinjang 2013
bcdate: 2013-10-12
smtdate: 2013-10-31
termdate: 2013-11-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6450m due to Gottlieb's frostbite
campsites: BC(12/10,5100m),ABC(21/10,5500m),Biv1(31/10,6450m),xxx
agency: Climb High Himalaya
routememo:
  David Gottlieb and his teammate Chad Kellogg, and Chris Wright and his teammate Scott Adamson, attempted two peaks rising from the Lunag Glacier, which branches westward off the Nangpa Glacier south-southwest of the Nangpa La into Tibet; both peaks are on the border with Tibet. They actually have no names and are not on the government's list of permitted peaks. Jobo Rinjang is the nearest mountain that is on the list, and Gottlieb obtained a permit for this mountain; Wright was on the same permit, but neither had any intention of climbing it.

  Gottlieb and Chad Kellogg attempted a peak of 6907m, according to the Schneider Khumbu map, which they called Lunag I. They pitched their BC next to Wright's on 12 October; their ABC was also next to Wright's camp. BC was at 5100m on the northwest side of the Lunag Glacier up on grass next to the lateral moraine. Because of a lot of snow on the glacier, they made an ABC on the 21st at 5500m from which they launched their alpine-style climb.

  The two climbers began their attempt on Lunag I, west-northwest of Lunag West, from ABC on 23 October in the center of Lunag I's SW Face at 3:00 am in the dark. By 2:00 pm they had gotten to 5950m when they were being pelted by "extreme rockfall." They took shelter for protection under an overhanging rock formation and sat on their packs secured by ice screws from 4:00 pm to 6:30 pm. They moved up again, in the dark.

  But at 7:30 pm, the largest of all falling rocks came crashing down beside them; it did not hit Gottlieb, but a piece that broke off of it and hit Kellogg on his left shoulder hard enough that he couldn't raise that arm above his shoulder. So they rappelled back to their sheltering rock formation until the rockfall eased off. Then they descended to ABC at 3:30 am on the 24th.

  Kellogg's arm recovered, and on the 31st at 9:00 pm they tried again, this time climbing up a ramp at the left side of the face to the SW Ridge at 6450m. Here at 4:30 am they found a spot where they could make a ledge for their bivy tent in two-and-half hour's hard work. This turned out to be their high point.

  Here Gottlieb discovered that five of his fingers were white, showing they had become frostbitten despite (or because of) warm gloves, from sweat. Now they had to descend. They waited again for darkness to minimize the rockfall and started down at 8:00 pm. They spent the whole night down-climbing and rappelling in the dark. But still occasionally a rock fell from above. Gottlieb was hit by one and was knocked off the face. He was held by an anchor, but in his short fall, he hit Kellogg in turn and knocked him off the face. Again an anchor prevented a serious fall.

  They were not injured and continued their descent to ABC, where they arrived at 4:00 am and slept until noon. It was now extremely hot inside their tent, so they packed up and made the six-kilometer trek to BC, which they reached at 7:00 pm.


expid: LUNW13301
peakid: LUNW
year: 2013
route1: SE Face
nation: USA
leaders: Chris Wright
sponsor: Khumbu Express Expedition 2013
bcdate: 2013-10-17
smtdate: 2013-10-22
smttime: 1145
termdate: 2013-11-06
othersmts: Summited Pangbuk North (6478m)
campsites: BC(17/10,5100m),ABC(20/10,5590m),Smt(22/10)
agency: Climb High Himalaya
routememo:
  Wright and his teammate Scott Adamson, and David Gottlieb and his teammate Chad Kellogg, attempted two peaks rising from the Lunag Glacier, which branches westward off the Nangpa Glacier south-southwest of the Nangpa La into Tibet; both peaks are on the border with Tibet. They actually have no names and are not on the government's list of permitted peaks. Gottlieb obtained a permit for Jobo Rinjang, which he shared with Wright. Wright reported that his peak, which he called Lunag West, is 6492m (on the Schneider Khumbu map it is a peak given an altitude of 6507m).

  Wright and Adamson pitched their BC at 5100m on 10 October on the northwest side of the Lunag Glacier up on the grass next to the lateral moraine. Because of a lot of snow on the glacier, they made an ABC on the 20th at 5500m, which they launched their alpine-style climb.

  The two climbers left ABC at 5:00 am on 22 October and were back in ABC at 6:00 am the next day. The line they followed took them up the central couloir on the SE Face to the summit ridge, the SW Ridge. They were on the summit at 11:45 pm on the 22nd, rappelled down their route through the night to take advantage of the time when there was a minimum amount of rockfall, and returned to ABC at 6:00 am on the 23rd.

  When they got to ABC they were very tired, but undamaged by falling rock. They went back to BC on 24th, rested on the 25th to the 29th and then returned to ABC on the 30th.

  Now they climbed the NE Face of nearby point 6589m on the Schneider Khumbu map [aka Pangbuk North 6478m] with one bivouac on the 31st at 6280m. They were on the top of this unnamed peak at 4:00 pm on 1 November and returned to their bivouac for another night. They reached ABC at 2:00 pm on the 2nd, returned to BC on the 3rd and left it and the Lunags on the 6th.


expid: MANA13333
peakid: MANA
year: 2013
route1: NE Face
nation: Russia
leaders: Valeri Shamalo
sponsor: Russian Manaslu Expedition 2013
bcdate: 2013-09-11
smtdate: 2013-09-25
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2013-09-30
campsites: BC(11/09,3530m),C1(14/09,5450m),C2(15/09,6400m),C3(23/09,6800m),C4(24/09,7400m),Smt(25/09)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Email to Billi Bierling - 22 October 2013

  Departed from Kathmandu to Arughat Bazar at 6:09 am by bus together with Venezuela's expedition. They trekked to Samagaon from 7 to 11 Sept intending to climb Manaslu by normal route. They did not stay in BC at altitude 4600-4800m; all moved to Samagaon as Ruslan's wife and daughter had to stay in Samagaon.

  On 12 Sept they ascended to BC and returned to Samagaon. On 14 Sept morning they ascended from Samagaon with porters; they carried 3 of their bags to BC for deposit. Afternoon they had to go to C1, on its low part in altitude about 5450m, and slept there.

  On 15 Sept they climbed to C2 at 6400m and slept there. On 16 Sept they descended to Samagaon, 18 Sept they went again to C1, 19 Sept to C2. Then when they were going to C3 the weather became very bad and there was snowfall. One of the Sherpas recommended them to go down and on 20 Sept they descended to Samagaon. On 22 Sept they ascended to C1 (5600m), 23 Sept to C3 (6800m) and slept there. On 24 Sept they went to C4 and slept there.

  Most of them [other climbers] used oxygen; only a few did not. Firstly they were going to descend down 25 Sept because of bad acclimatization, but somebody from Sherpas told them that weather forecast was terrible, and since 25 Sept was the last possibility to make it to summit so they decided to try again. So they started on 25 Sept from C4 at about 3 am together with many climbers and Sherpas. The weather was perfect with no wind and no snowfall. Ruslan Kirichenko and Valerii Shamalo did summit on 25 Sept at 11 am. There were no Sherpas with them, but many with other climbers. On way down they arrived to C4 at about 2 pm and slept there because they were very tired and wanted to sleep.

  On 27 Sept they descended to Samagaon. 29 Sept they visited BC to take back their deposit (with help of a porter) together with Ruslan's wife and daughter. 30 Sept they started from Samagaon to Arughat Bazar.


expid: NUPT13301
peakid: NUPT
year: 2013
route1: N Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Tomekazu Nagaoka
sponsor: Team Roke Nuptse Expedition 2013
approach: Lukla->Namche
bcdate: 2013-09-30
smtdate: 2013-10-25
termdate: 2013-10-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6700m due to lack of acclimatization and equipment
campsites: BC(30/09,5210m),C1(08/10,6000m),C2(09/10,6300m),xxx(25/10,6700m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Difficult start to the expedition due to the icefall (no fixed route due to no icefall doctors this season). Worked with Korean Lhotse expedition to fix route in the icefall and moved through the Khumbu Icefall with Korean members. Gave up on October 25th due to lack of acclimatization and lack of equipment to climb technical route (no sleeping bag, climbing boots, tent). Korean Lhotse team gave him space in their tents.


expid: PUMO13302
peakid: PUMO
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Norway
leaders: Hilde Alnaes
sponsor: Norwegians to Pumori
approach: Pangboche->Gorakshep
bcdate: 2013-10-23
smtdate: 2013-10-25
termdate: 2013-10-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to bad conditions and too much snow
campsites: BC(23/10,5400m),xxx(25/10,6100m)
agency: Tseringma Treks
routememo:
  The team climbed to C1 again on 25 Oct to have another look at the conditions, but it was obvious that it was too dangerous so they cancelled their expedition.


expid: PUTH13302
peakid: PUTH
year: 2013
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Mario Castiglioni
sponsor: Dhaulagiri VII Expedition
countries: Bulgaria, Switzerland
approach: Nepalgunj->fly to Machina Chaur->Dunai->Tarakot->Musikhola->Kakot
bcdate: 2013-10-10
smtdate: 2013-10-14
termdate: 2013-10-16
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to chest-deep snow conditions
campsites: BC(10/10,4900m),C1(13/10,5400m),C2(14/10,6000m),xxx(14/10,6000m)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  13th and 15th October snowfall and cloudy. On 15th October went down to BC. 

  High points for other members; Figini, Lansel and Marchi touched C1 on 11 October. These three members left BC on 13 October and Kathmandu on 19 October.

  Sherpa:
    Rita Dorje Sherpa, Phortse (Russell's Sherpa)


expid: RATC13301
peakid: RATC
year: 2013
route1: W Smt-W Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Serge Bazin
sponsor: French Ratna Chuli Expedition 2013
countries: Belgium, Switzerland
approach: Koto->Phu
bcdate: 2013-09-28
smtdate: 2013-10-10
termdate: 2013-10-14
termnote: Abandoned at 6804m due to weather conditions and lack of time
campsites: BC(28/09,5200m),ABC(30/09,5600m),C1(01/10,6000m),C2(09/10,6600m),xxx(10/10,6804m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  On the 2nd October, the team attempted to go to C2.
  On the 8th October, the entire team slept at C1.
  On the 9th October, the entire team slept at C2.

  On the 10 October, the entire team reached the Ratna fore-summit (6804m on the Finnish map). Then Bazin, with both Sherpas and Pellegrin went further on the route, equipping the descent to the col lying between both summits (Ratna fore-summit and Ratna Chuli, 6412m on the Finnish map) with 100m of fixed rope, then let 200m of rope at the col for the day after and made the track for the summit until 6804m before turning down.

  In his initial plans, Bazin thought he would reach summit on 11 or 12th October, but in the night of 10th to the 11th of October, the weather turned bad, so that on the 11th, the entire team could only escape from the storm with 80 km/h winds (intensified with the Venturi effect, C2 lying on a col), taking time to take away all the gear put on the mountain (tents, fixed ropes - except the 100m between fore-summit and 6412m col) whilst climbing down. The same day all the team was safely back to the base camp.

  The same day the expedition was over: there was not enough time left and even with a return of good weather for the 12th October, the conditions wouldn't have been safe enough for a summit bid, with a lots of wind slabs.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Nuru Sherpa, 2037/8/12, Khumjung-3, Solukhumbu
    Dachhiri Sherpa, 2024/3/7, Khumjung-1, Solukhumbu

  Fixed rope:

  Bazin and the Sherpas put 300m of fixed ropes on the route: 200m below C2 for steep sections of ice (60 degrees), 100m below the fore-summit to go down to the 6412m col. The less steeper sections below (35-degree slopes) and above (40-degree slopes) C1 were not equipped as the snow conditions were very good.


expid: SAIP13302
peakid: SAIP
year: 2013
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Ernst Marti
sponsor: Marti Saipal Expedition
approach: FLight to Simikot->Kermi->Karang Khola
bcdate: 2013-11-01
smtdate: 2013-11-04
termdate: 2013-11-12
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to bad weather and snowfall
campsites: BC(01/11,4200m),C1(03/11,4900m),xxx(04/11,5800m)
accidents: Werner Marti frostbite on one finger
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  BC  01 Nov  4200m
  C1  03 Nov  4900m
  HPt 04 Nov  5800m (C2) by Ernst Marti, Werner Marti

  Marti had already been to Saipal in 2011 and knew the route. They wanted to skip the traditional C2 and were intending to set up their C2 at 5800m. When they reached it on 4 Nov, they noticed that they would need fixed ropes for further up and descended to BC to get them. They climbed back to C2 on 6 Nov with the rope; however, the weather turned bad and they descended to BC again the same day without having fixed any rope.

  They were never able to get back to C2 due to the masses of snow that had fallen; however, they reached C1 again to get their gear down.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


expid: SAIP13301
peakid: SAIP
year: 2013
route1: NE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Emmanuel Abele
sponsor: Saipal Expedition 2013
approach: Nepalganj->Simikot->Chala
bcdate: 2013-10-23
smtdate: 2013-11-02
termdate: 2013-11-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to route too difficult and loose rock
othersmts: Summit Liz Himal (5950m)
campsites: BC(23/10,4350m),ABC(25/10,4800m),C1(27/10,5400m),C2(29/10,5800m),xxx(02/11,6000m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  23 Oct  4350m
  ABC 25 Oct  4800m
  C1  27 Oct  5400m
  C2  29 Oct  5800m
  HPt 02 Nov  6000m Abele, Charbonneau

  De Miscault, Grenet, Marceron and Santoni reached C2 on 29 Oct and stayed the night. On 1 Nov Abele and Charbonneau launched a summit attempt. They directly went to C2, where they stayed the night. On 2 Nov they left C2 at 8 am and climbed until 11 am to 6000m. The route was very dry and it was difficult to put protectionn in and they decided to turn back. They descended to BC on the same day, where they arrived at 7 pm. On their way down, they cleared the whole mountain.

  Abele, Charbonneau and De Miscault climbed Liz Himal (5950m) on 30 Oct. They climbed it from Saipal C1 in one day. They were wading through knee-deep snow and Abele and De Miscault skied down. They did not rope up for the ascent. They started from C1 at 8 am summited at around 11 am.

  Grenet, Marceron and Santoni climbed Liz Himal on 1 Nov.


expid: TAWO13301
peakid: TAWO
year: 2013
route1: S Pillar
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Felix Berg
sponsor: SummitClimb Tawoche Expedition 2013
countries: Germany
approach: From Ama Dablam BC
bcdate: 2013-11-16
smtdate: 2013-11-18
termdate: 2013-11-18
termnote: Abandoned at 5400m due to steepness of route and client unwell
campsites: BC(16/11,3985m),Biv1(17/11,5200m),xxx(18/11,5400m)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  The Swiss client, Janik Jaeger, wanted to make an alpine-style climb with no Sherpas. The two climbers did not even establish a BC, but used a lodge in Pangboche village (3985m) as their base. From Pangboche, they went to the bottom of Tawoche's South Pillar on 17 November at 5200m and spent the night there in a tent. On the 18th they moved up a gently sloping section of the pillar to 5400m, where the pillar became really steep (70 degrees). There they turned around and abandoned the climb. Jaeger had a cough, and he was not climbing fast enough. They returned to Pangboche that day.

  On the 21st they climbed a nearby unnamed peak 5620m to the summit. On the 22nd they left the mountains.


expid: TUKU12401
peakid: TUKU
year: 2012
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Ryuta Takayanagi
sponsor: Hokkaido University Wondervogel Tukuche Expedition 2013
bcdate: 2013-02-22
smtdate: 2013-02-28
termdate: 2013-03-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(22/02,5100m),C1(27/02,5800m),C2(28/02,6100m),xxx(28/02,6100m)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Kimura Ryuichi went as far as C2, but retired due to fatigue and not feeling well; others stayed in C2 until about 3-4 March and went to BC. Waited in BC until 15 March, but strong wind and falling snow continued and they gave up.


expid: TUKU13301
peakid: TUKU
year: 2013
route1: N Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Wolfgang Uttendorfer
sponsor: Germans on Tukuche
approach: Beni->Japanese BC->French Pass->Hidden Valley
bcdate: 2013-10-19
smtdate: 2013-10-21
termdate: 2013-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 5500m due to snow conditions and bad weather
othersmts: Summited Dhampus via W Ridge on 23 Oct by Merk, Spindler and Uttendorfer at 11:30 am
campsites: BC(19/10,5080m),xxx(21/10,5500m)
agency: Adventure Geo Treks
routememo:
  The team met with difficult snow and weather conditions already during the approach by the Dhaulagiri tour (snow from 4800m; blocked for 3 days at the Japanese base camp). So after one attempt of Tukuche (with snow up to the hips) and after the team could reach the summit of Dhampus in heavy snow, they decided to finish the expedition as the conditions were becoming even worse. In fact, the descent from BC was rendered difficult by the snow.

  Summit of Dhampus on the 23 October by the Merk, Spindler and Uttendorfer at 11:30 am by the western ridge.


expid: TASH13301
peakid: TASH
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiroshi Tsuruki
sponsor: Japanese Tashi Kang Expedition
ascent1: 8th
approach: By bus to Beni->Marpha
bcdate: 2013-10-07
smtdate: 2013-10-13
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2013-10-15
othersmts: Attempted Tashi Kang II
campsites: BC(07/10,5100m),C1(12/10,5400m),Smt(13/10)
agency: Peak Summit Trek
routememo:
  At first the team attempted Tashi Kang II believing it to be Tashi Kang I. When they understood their mistake, they came back down and moved their base camp to the correct one under Tashi Kang I on the 7th October. [The team then summited Tashi Kang I on 13 October.]

  On the 13th October the team went back to the BC and stayed there on the 14th, both Sherpas having contracted temporary snowblindness (poor snow glasses quality) and Tsuruki having a rest.

  After the 14th October, the weather turned bad with heavy snow, so it was impossible to go for Hongde Peak [which was also in their plans], so the team went back earlier than expected on Kathmandu. Tsuruki will come back next year to climb it.

  Sherpas
    Ang Kami Sherpa, 21/8/1982, Gudel-5, Solu
    Lhakpa Kitar Sherpa, 13/5/90, Gudel-5, Solu


expid: JAGD13101
peakid: JAGD
year: 2013
route1: SW Face (up); NW Ridge (down)
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
sponsor: Jagdula French Peak Expedition
ascent1: 1st official
bcdate: 2013-04-24
smtdate: 2013-04-30
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2013-05-02
othersmts: Attempted Bijora Hiunchuli (BIJO-131-01)
campsites: BC(24/04,4965m),Smt(30/04)
agency: Yeti Adventure
primid: BIJO13101
routememo:
  The expedition's main goal was Bijora Hiunchuli, which is not on the permitted list, but is one of the peaks in the Jagdula range. Jagdula peak is permitted. Bijora Hiunchuli's altitude is given variously as 6011m or 6111m.

  The team started their approach by flying to Nepalgunj on 15 April. They made several camps in the following days. On the 22nd, in order to climb several small mountains in the area, they pitched a low BC north of Bijora Hiunchuli on the east side the Chaudhabas Glacier. On the 24th and 25th, they arrived at BC at 4965m to give access to the north side of the North Ridge. On the 26th they made a deposit camp at 5300m on the north side above BC. On the 27th they returned to BC because some members were developing altitude sickness.

  On 30 April (while the other members of the team were on Bijora Hiunchuli) Damilano summited Jagdula Peak, 5764m, east-northeast of Bijora Hiunchuli. He left low BC at 4:00 pm on the 29th and got to the top at 11:00 am the next day. He ascended mixed rock and ice on the SW Face, descended the NW Ridge, and was back in low BC at 4:00 pm of the 30th.


expid: KNAG13301
peakid: KNAG
year: 2013
route1: SW Face-E Smt
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Domen Kastelic, Santiago Padros
countries: Spain
bcdate: 2013-10-20
smtdate: 2013-10-22
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2013-10-23
termnote: Abandoned at E Smt due to difficult and dangerous ridge to Main Smt
campsites: ABC(20/10,5200m),Biv1(21/10,6400m),E-Smt(22/10,6640m)
routememo:
  Monsoon Kang Nachugo East, by Santiago Padros

  Domen Kastelic from Slovenia and I set off at the end of September on an exploratory expedition in the semi-unknown Rolwaling valley, close to Everest. This year though the monsoon was longer than normal and surprised us with more than 2 metres of fresh snow in mid-October above 5500m! This dashed all our hopes of "extreme" alpinism and with just five days remaining we had to take some fast decisions.

  Our base camp was located at Na, a small village at 4200m where the only fresh vegetables are potatoes and wild chicory! A group of three 6000m summits is located 2500m above the village: Chekigo 6257m, Bamongo 6400m (still virgin) and Nang Nachugo 6735m (climbed just once). The base of these south faces were almost completely devoid of snow and so we decided to check out the SW Face Kang Nachugo as this seemed to offer something not too difficult that could be climbed relatively quickly. In 2008 David Gottlieb and Joseph Puryear attempted the line which we would now finish, but at the time they were forced to bail at 6400m due to a sudden change in the weather (Ed. the Americans then went on to climb the West Ridge).

  On 20 October, just 5 days before our return, we made our way to Advanced Base Camp at 5200m at the base of the face. The next morning we started up ramps which didn't exceed 60° and alternated at breaking trail. At 9:00 the sun began to warm our heads... towards midday we breached the 6000m barrier. We began to feel tired and tied in for safety, and continued up slightly more vertical terrain, past some icy sections. From 15:00 onwards we began to look out for a place to pitch our tent but it wasn't to be! In fact, we climbed until 18:30 and failed to find a suitable place for our micro-tent, brr! A 20m abseil led to below a small roof; here we hacked a small ledge to lie down and spend the night, but sleeping was out of the question!

  We got up at 6:00, tired of trying to keep our feet warm, the -15°C temperatures certainly didn't help matters. We were at 6400m and needed almost 2 hours to get ready. Three difficult ice pitches and one up snow and rock led to the dangerous ridge and the summit. At midday we reached the East Summit of Kang Nachugo at circa 6640m! The main summit lay there, still distant, and since the route was exposed we decided to start the descent and try and exit the face that same day. 7 hours and more than 20 abseils later we returned to ABC in the dark. Tired and happy we celebrated our achievement and slowly descended to Na the next day from where we began to prepare for the long return home.


expid: DOMO12301
peakid: DOMO
year: 2012
route1: ENE Spur-ESE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Pradeep Chandra Sahoo
sponsor: Kolkata Section of the Himalayan Club
ascent1: 2nd
approach: Sikkim->Upper Lhonak Valley->Jongsong Glacier
bcdate: 2012-09-17
smtdate: 2012-09-30
smttime: 0830
othersmts: Summited Dome Kang (DOMK-123-01)
campsites: BC(17/09,5525m),C1,C2(26/09),C3(27/09),C4(28/09,6874m),Smt(29/09)
routememo:
  This was a significant major expedition to the remote area of North Sikkim, generally not open to climbers. The Kolkata Section of the Himalayan Club had organised this expedition, led by Pradeep Chandra Sahoo. The team made ascents of two high mountains located in the Janak Himal of the Sikkim Himalaya in 12-days of climbing from the base camp, both by new routes.

  The East Peak of Jongsong (7462m) was climbed by a new route and Dome Kang (7264m) received its first ascent from the Indian (eastern) side.

  The ESE ridge, rising above the Jongsong La (6145m) on the Nepal-Sikkim border, was first attempted in 1983 by the Slovenians followed by other teams, but all from Nepal as permission to climb from the north and east is possible only for the Indian teams. The main summit of Jongsong forms the highest triple-border point in the world (India-Nepal-Tibet).

  The team passed though Sikkim to the Upper Lhonak valley, and then onto the Jongsong glacier leading southwest to the Jongsong La. The expedition established base camp on 17 September at 5525m, close to a large lake on the north side of the glacier.

  Access to the crest of the ESE ridge via the east flanks of Jongsong was barred by steep rocky walls and hanging glaciers. However, two Sherpas finally located a steep gully through these walls. Above was, 200m of broken rock at 40-50°, followed by a difficult 200m rock tower, whose the last part was very steep and loose, leading to an upper icefield. All these sections were fixed with ropes.

  On the 26th a team of six climbers moved up from C1 carrying four days’ food and fuel, and two tents. Over the ensuing days, climbers moved up the ridge and established three higher camps, the highest at 6874m. On the 29th five climbers reached the 7257m col between Dome Kang and Jongsong, and then split. Ang Dorji, Phurba, and Sahoo set off for Jongsong to the northwest, while Dawa and Mondal headed east for nearby Dome Kang.

  Dawa and Mondal left the col at 10:15 am, and in 35 minutes reached the top of Dome Kang.

  The Jongsong group followed the knife-edge SE Ridge leading toward Domo (Jongsong’s SE Summit) and then on to Jongsong, but decided conditions were too dangerous at that time of day. They returned to the col, and Sahoo waited there while two Sherpas Ang Dorji and Phurbu descended to C4, collected a tent and several coils of rope for fixing, and then came back up. All three spent a chilly night, then left at 5:30 am on the 30th. In better snow conditions, it took three hours to ascend the ridge to Domo. The only previous ascent of this rounded top had been in 1930 by Guenter Dyhrenfurth and Lewa Sherpa, who made the round-trip from Jongsong’s main summit in one hour.

  The three decided not to continue across the plateau to the main summit (7462m) and made a quick descent of the mountain, reaching C1 just after dark.


expid: DOMO30101
peakid: DOMO
year: 1930
route1: NW Ridge from Jongsong Smt
nation: Germany
leaders: G. O. Dyhrenfurth
ascent1: 1st
bcdate: 1930-04-26
smtdate: 1930-06-08
campsites: BC(26/04,5050m),C1(5680m),C2(6000m),C3(6465m),Smt(08/06)
routememo: Guenter Dyhrenfurth and Lewa Sherpa made the round-trip from Jongsong’s main summit in one hour.
primid: KANG30101
othersmts:
  Climbed Jongsang (JONG-301-01), Nepal Peak (NEPA-301-01) and Ramtang (RAMT-301-01); recon Kangbachen (KANB-301-01); attempted Kangchenjung (KANG-301-01)


expid: DOMK12301
peakid: DOMK
year: 2012
route1: ENE Spur-W Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Pradeep Chandra Sahoo
sponsor: Kolkata Section of the Himalayan Club
ascent1: 2nd
approach: Sikkim->Upper Lhonak Valley->Jongsong Glacier
bcdate: 2012-09-17
smtdate: 2012-09-29
smttime: 1040
othersmts: Summited Domo (DOMO-123-01)
campsites: BC(17/09,5525m),C1,C2(26/09),C3(27/09),C4(28/09,6874m),Smt(29/09)
primid: DOMO12301
routememo:
  This was a significant major expedition to the remote area of North Sikkim, generally not open to climbers. The Kolkata Section of the Himalayan Club had organised this expedition, led by Pradeep Chandra Sahoo. The team made ascents of two high mountains located in the Janak Himal of the Sikkim Himalaya in 12-days of climbing from the base camp, both by new routes.

  The East Peak of Jongsong (7462m) was climbed by a new route and Dome Kang (7264m) received its first ascent from the Indian (eastern) side.

  The ESE ridge, rising above the Jongsong La (6145m) on the Nepal-Sikkim border, was first attempted in 1983 by the Slovenians followed by other teams – but all from Nepal as permission to climb from the north and east is possible only for the Indian teams. The main summit of Jongsong forms the highest triple-border point in the world (India-Nepal-Tibet).

  The team passed though Sikkim to the Upper Lhonak valley, and then onto the Jongsong glacier leading southwest to the Jongsong La. The expedition established base camp on 17 September at 5525m, close to a large lake on the north side of the glacier.

  Access to the crest of the ESE ridge via the east flanks of Jongsong was barred by steep rocky walls and hanging glaciers. However, two Sherpas finally located a steep gully through these walls. Above was, 200m of broken rock at 40-50°, followed by a difficult 200m rock tower, whose the last part was very steep and loose, leading to an upper icefield. All these sections were fixed with ropes.

  On the 26th a team of six climbers moved up from C1 carrying four days’ food and fuel, and two tents. Over the ensuing days, climbers moved up the ridge and established three higher camps, the highest at 6874m. On the 29th five climbers reached the 7257m col between Dome Kang and Jongsong, and then split. Ang Dorji, Phurba, and Sahoo set off for Jongsong to the northwest, while Dawa and Mondal headed east for nearby Dome Kang.

  Dawa and Mondal left the col at 10:15 am, and in 35 minutes reached the top of Dome Kang.

  The Jongsong group followed the knife-edge SE Ridge leading toward Domo (Jongsong’s SE Summit) and then on to Jongsong, but decided conditions were too dangerous at that time of day. They returned to the col, and Sahoo waited there while two Sherpas Ang Dorji and Phurbu descended to C4, collected a tent and several coils of rope for fixing, and then came back up. All three spent a chilly night, then left at 5:30 am on the 30th. In better snow conditions, it took three hours to ascend the ridge to Domo. The only previous ascent of this rounded top had been in 1930 by Guenter Dyhrenfurth and Lewa Sherpa, who made the round-trip from Jongsong’s main summit in one hour.

  The three decided not to continue across the plateau to the main summit (7462m) and made a quick descent of the mountain, reaching C1 just after dark.


expid: AMAD13336
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Tim Mosedale
sponsor: Tim Mosedale's Ama Dablam Autumn 2013
countries: Canada, Ireland, Netherlands, S Africa
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2013-11-09
smtdate: 2013-11-18
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2013-11-26
campsites: BC(09/11,4350m),ABC(12/11,5350m),C1(13/11,5800m),C2(14/11,6000m),Smt(18-20,22-24/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  All summit teams left C2 between 3:30 am and 4:30 am and all summit days were fine days. They spent an average of about 15 minutes at the summit and all members descended to C1 on the way down. The fact that Mosedale's expedition came in quite late was a big advantage as the huge amount of that had fallen in mid-October no longer posed a big problem as it did for expeditions, which were on the mountain earlier.

  The following members did not make it to the summit.

  Alasdair Downes to ABC; difficulty acclimatizing and illness; left BC on 21 Nov.

  Andrew Dawson to C1; injured his head and arm when he took a tumble; left BC on 15 Nov. 

  Richard Dillon to ABC; difficulty acclimatizing; left BC on 19 Nov.

  Mitchell Bowen to C2; exhaustion.

  Tim Mosedale to C1; he removed himself from the equation to summit in order to organise logistics and staffing for the team members on the hill.

  Sherpas:
    Dorje Gyalzen 16/7/82, Pangboche, Khumbu
    Kalzang Dorje, Pangboche
    Lhakpa Wangchu, 23/10/86, Pangboche, Khumbu
    Chheten Dorje, Pangboche, Khumbu, 28/5/87
    Cheyang Jangbu (Chhyang Jyalbu) Bhote, Hatiya-1, Makalu-Barun, 29/10/79
    Pemba Bhote
    Pasang Dawa (Pa Dawa, Pando), Pangboche, Khumbu, 18/01/77


expid: AMAD13402
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Malaysia
leaders: Doris Sitaun
sponsor: Malaysian Sabah Ama Dablam Expedition
bcdate: 2013-12-07
smtdate: 2013-12-18
termdate: 2013-12-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(07/12,4700m),ABC(11/12,5000m),C1(12/12,5600m),C2(14/12,5900m),C3(17/12,6400m),xxx(18/12,6500m)
agency: Ever Quest Expeditions
routememo:
  I stopped at 6500m during my summit bid day on 18th December because of bad weather. I myself decided to stop at 6500m on that day and would have liked to make second attempt on the next day 19th December, but somehow the weather got even worse and my Sherpa advised to return all the way to the BC. Even though I did not summit due to bad weather in the couple of days, the experience gained from traversing C1 to C2 was most valuable. I would love the chance to do it again hopefully in good weather.


expid: BAMO13301
peakid: BAMO
year: 2013
route1: SW Face-SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Mingma Gyalje Sherpa
sponsor: Mt. Bamongo First Ascent Expedition
countries: China, Nepal
approach: By bus to Gongur Khola, trek to Beding->Na
bcdate: 2013-10-27
smtdate: 2013-10-30
smttime: 1445
termdate: 2013-11-02
campsites: BC(27/10,4800m),Biv(29/10,5400m),Smt(30/10)
agency: Dreamers Destination Treks
routememo:
  The intended leader of the team was Josef Einwaller, an Austrian climber who had led two unsuccessful attempts on this 6400m mountain in the Gaurishankar Himal in the autumn of 2010 and the following spring. But a problem with his leg stopped him from reaching Kathmandu this autumn. With him on the previous attempts was Wulf Kruetschnigg, who did join this autumn's climb. Also on this climb were a Chinese member, Liu Yong (called Daliu), who was added by the leader Mingma Gyalje. They had one hired Sherpa, Pema Tshering.

  Their approach to Bamongo began with a bus ride from Kathmandu to Gongurkhola on the first day, then a trek for four days via Beding and Nagaon in the Rolwaling Valley to BC at the foot of the SW Face which they established on 27 October.

  They began their climb the day after setting up BC. They moved up slightly to the left of the SW Face up a ridge or pillar to its top, then on the face itself to the SW Ridge which led to the summit.

  They carried some gear to 5400m, then descended to BC because of a storm on the 28th. On the 29th they climbed back up to 5440m with a tent and bivouacked there. They woke up at 3:40 am on 30 October, left the tent at 5:00 am, climbed to the summit at 14:45, returned to BC at 9:30 pm the same day, having climbed so fast "that we didn't even have time to eat and drink," according to Liu. They had accomplished the first ascent of the mountain.

  They climbed without fixed rope; the three summiters, Liu, Mingma Gyalje and Pema Tshering, tied up in one 60-meter rope. The face generally slanted at 40 to 60 degrees with the last 30 meters to the summit ridge at almost 80 to 90 degrees. The final ridge was a sharp knife-edge ridge with very soft snow; they climbed five pitches with little protection, "then another more than one hour running belay without protection because of soft snow," according Liu.

  The Austrian member, Wulf Kruetschnigg, had taken no part in this pioneering climb. But on 1 November Mingma Gyalje tried to guide him to the top with Phurba Tenzing.  They did fix rope, about 300 meters of it, but they turned back at 5900m because it was too steep for the Austrian. "I am 69 and not an extreme mountain climber; it was just the right amount of climbing for me," he explained in an email.

  Sherpa:
    Pema Tshering, 17/12/83 (2/9/2040), Beding


expid: HIML13308
peakid: HIML
year: 2013
route1: W Ridge from SW
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Urs Hefti
sponsor: Himlung Himal Research Expedition 2013
countries: Germany, Italy, Malaysia
bcdate: 2013-10-02
smtdate: 2013-10-22
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2013-10-24
campsites: BC(02/10,4900m),C1(06/10,5400m),C2(12/10,6050m),C3(21/10,6950m),Smt(22/10)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  BC  02 Oct  4900m on a meadow
  C1  06 Oct  5400m	
  C2  12 Oct  6050m	
  C3  21 Oct  6950m
  Smt 22 Oct  Abbuehl, Abromeit, Albert, Anderegg, Berger, Chow, Felix Daniel, Grosch, Gruen, Hefti David, Hefti Urs, Hiltz, Hoigne, Imboden, Imhof, Junga Gerhard, Kimmig, Kuendig, Mali, Marmet, Mende, Merz, Meyer Dominik Urs, Mueller, Pichler-Hefti, Raillard, Sailer, Sonnentruecker, von Wolff, Wullschleger and 18 Sherpas between 10 am and 4 pm.

  Weather was good on summit day, however, the team experienced a lot of snowfall prior to the summit day. The prime reason for this expedition was to do medical research. The last camp was at such a high altitude because the medical team was still doing research up there.

  The summiters left at various times between 9 am and 3 pm. The way to the summit took an average of about one hour; the slope was about 40 degrees and there was potential avalanche danger; however, the snow condition proved good enough for the team to go for the summit.

  Some of the members stayed the night at C2 and some came directly down to BC (neither Kobler nor Hefti could verify who came down to BC and who stayed at C2).

  According to Kobler, some of the Sherpas and locals built new paths from BC to about 5800m as there was nothing.

  Oxygen: Taken and used by the researchers from C2 to summit to C3 (Abbuehl, Berger, Hefti, Hilty, Hoigne, Junga, Menda, Merz, Pichler-Hefti, Sailer, von Wolff).

  Members who reached C2:
    Martina [Vetter-]Aebli
    Jana Bauer
    Raphael Bauer 
    Ms. Roswitha Bolliger 
    Urs Bolliger 
    Nicole Bretschneider
    Ms. Helen Alicia Engel
    Ms. Jasmin Felix
    Matthias Gutmann
    Meinrad Heynen
    Junga Ursina
    Hans-Joachim Kabitz
    Reinhard Kempf
    Rene Kistler
    Ms. Brigitte Kroni-Stakermann
    Viktor Laube
    Ms. Carole Meier
    Dominik-Ivo Meyer
    Ms. Eveline Perret
    Reto Pezzoli
    Christa Rothen
    Erna Sarbach-Furrer
    Gero Schulze
    Ms. Tina Thenisch
    Rebekka Thoni-Tobler
    Markus Thomma
    Ms. Stefhani Ulsamer
    Andreas Vizeli
    Ms. Brigitte Vogel
    Matthias Widmer 
    Hansruedi Wirth
    Beat Zahnd
    Philipp Zenklusen

  Members who reached C1:
    Thomas Christoph Datwyler
    German Escalante
    Ms. Katy Rosenke
    Ms. Deborah Salzmann
    Michael Zenhausern

  Members who stayed at BC:
    Andreas Huber - did not intend to climb
    Karl Kobler - BC manager, did not intend to climb
    Fabio Lanzi - did not intend to climb
    Stefan Urfer - was altitude sick and evacuated by helicopter early on in the trip

  Summiting members: 
    Hans Peter Abbuehl
    Lars Abromeit 
    Michael Albert
    Peter Anderegg
    David Berger
    Stefan Chow
    Daniel Felix
    Ms. Ursina Grosch
    Sybilli Gruen
    David Hefti
    Urs Hefti
    Matthais Hilty
    Philip Hoigne
    Hans-Peter Imboden
    Beat Imhof
    Gerhard Junga
    Martin Kimmig
    Ms. Patrizia Kuenig
    Ms. Claudia Mali
    Ms. Elisabeth Marmet
    Ludger Mende
    Tobias Meyer
    Dominik Meyer
    Gianin Mueller
    Ms. Jacueline Pichler Hefti
    Claude Raillard
    Jannis Sailer
    Fidelis Sonnentrueker
    Michael von Wolff
    Christoph Wullschleger
                  
  18 Sherpas:
    Dendi Sherpa, Taksindu-5, 22/1/83
    Kanchha Lama Sherpa, Taksindu-2, 19/11/82 (4/8/2039)
    Pemba Sherpa, Lelep-8, 24/1/76 (10/10/2032)
    Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa, Taksindu-5, 23/8/89
    Tembe Sherpa, Lelep-9, 51/4/87
    Lal Bahadur Tamang, Ramche-5, Rasuwa, 21/6/83
    Chhongba Sherpa, Taksindu-5, 13/4/66
    Chhiti Thinduk Bhote, Hatiya-3, 25/8/81 (9/5/2038)
    Chhewang [Rinzing] Sherpa, Taksindu-5, 2/8/71 (17/4/2028)
    Karma Lama [Sherpa], Taksindu-3, 12/3/89 (29/11/2045)
    Pasang Lama Sherpa, Taksindu-5, 30/9/77 (14/6/2034)
    Ngima Sherpa, Taksindu-3, 8/5/86 (25/1/2043)
    Landuk Sherpa, Taplejung-9, 27/3/87 (13/12/2043)
    Tawa Chhiri Sherpa, Kurima, Solu, 26/1/79 (12/10/2035)
    Mingmar Sherpa, Taksindu-6, 20/8/74 (4/5/2031)
    Mitenjen Sherpa, Makalu-5, 30/7/69 (15/4/2036)
    Jangbu Sherpa, Taksindu-8, 10/7/87
    Ngima Thenduk Sherpa, Makalu-9, 31/8/73

  The team's Swiss mountain guides decided to use the South Face since it climbs up gradually the mountain (with no descents in between as on the normal route on the west side) and is less steep (40°-slopes maximum). They and the Sherpas had to install 2500m of fixed rope to secure the climbers. 

  The schedule was split into two waves separated by a period of bad weather which brought lots of snow that the 22 Sherpas and foreign mountain guides had to break to make the track for the second successful wave. 

  On the latter wave, 69 members started on the 20th of October, reaching C1 or C2 and sleeping there. On the 21st of October, 30 members could reach C3, a high camp very close from the summit. On the 22nd, these same members reached the summit at 10 am from, then they went back to C2 the same day. The day after they went all back to the base camp.

  The 39 other members reached the same high point at each wave, all of them sleeping at C1 or C2 then go back to the BC the next day (on 8th and 9th of October, then on the 20th of October). If the team's doctors expected a better result for them as well on the second wave, however it seems that these members hadn't enough time recover from their first attempt to be able to climb further to the top. 

  Huber and Lanzi didn't intend to climb. Karl Kobler stayed at the base camp during this expedition and will remain there to look after Andreas Neuschmid's next expedition on the same mountain.

  Urfer reached base camp and never climbed further; feeling sick (respiratory problems, HAPE), he had to be heli-rescued from the BC and didn't come back to it.

  Heynen got pulmonary embolism and had to be heli-rescued from BC to Kathmandu.

accidents:
  Meier collapsed between C2 and C3 due to hypothermia; she was taken to BC and evacuated by helicopter on 22 Oct


expid: LIK113301
peakid: LIK1
year: 2013
route1: N Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Ines Papert
sponsor: German Tengkangpoche & Linku Chuli I Expedition
approach: Lukla->Thami->Tengpo
bcdate: 2013-11-02
smtdate: 2013-11-13
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2013-11-17
campsites: BC(02/11,4300m),ABC(07/11,4850m),C1(10/11,6580m),C2(11/11,6620m),C3(12/11,6580m),Smt(13/11)
accidents: 1st to 2nd degree frostbite on some fingers by Papert and toes by Senf
agency: Adventure Thamserku
routememo:
  BC  02 Nov  at 4300m at Tengpo, Parchamo View Lodge
  ABC 07 Nov  at Omizo Lake at the bottom of the face
  C1  10 Nov  just below the top of the face
  C2  11 Nov  6620m
  C3  12 Nov  6580m
  Smt 13 Nov  6719m by Papert at 2 pm.

  Papert and Senf left ABC at 4 am on 10 Nov. The first third was relatively fast as they did not use a rope for this section of the route, which led up underneath the cornice. They reached the cornice, which was just below the exit of the face, at about 3 pm. After they had tried for about four hours to get over, but were not able to due to the overhang and the sugary snow, they set up a bivouac and stayed the night.

  The next morning they found a better way to get off the face. It was further to the right where the sun had consolidated the snow a bit better than in the middle of the face. They were both very exhausted after the tough climb of the previous day and the night on the hanging bivouac, which was "hell" (according to the Papert). As they had enough provisions and a tent (as opposed to just a bivy bag) they decided to take it more slowly on the ridge and established their second camp at only 40m higher than the first camp. "We were already in the tent at about 11 am due to the extreme cold, the wind and the exhaustion," Papert said.

  On 12 Nov, Papert and Senf moved across the top slowly and established their third bivoauc at 6580m. They were already in the tent at lunch time as it was freezing cold. As Senf had very cold fingers and toes and could see the beginning of frostbite, he decided not to attempt for the summit, but convinced Papert to go on her own. At that point they had already negotiated the most difficult part of the route and Papert felt comfortable to continue on her own.
   
  Papert left C3 at 12:30 am in cold, but clear weather. The summit flank was about 50 to 70 degrees. Papert had to cross a bergschrund; however, it was possible to get over it without any protection. Straightforward climb to the summit. Papert spent about 10 minutes on the top and descended back to C3, where she arrived at 3 pm. Senf was still at C3, where the team spent another night.

  On 14 Nov Papert and Senf roped up and descended via the West Shoulder. At the lowest point of the shoulder, they abseiled through a gully leading to a glacier.  They crossed the glacier on its northern edge until their path eventually joined their appraoch route. They went back to the Parchamo View Lodge in Tengpo, where they stayed for another two days in order to look after Senf's slightly frostbitten toes and Papert's slightly frostbitten fingers. On 17 Nov they left BC by helicopter and went straight back to Kathmandu.

  Senf reached C3 on 12 Nov and decided to abandon climb due to cold toes.

  For the ascent and descent the team used the following gear:

  1.70m half rope; 2 snow stakes; 3 ice screws; 1 set of pitons; 1 set of nuts; 3 quickdraws; 4 slings a 60 cm; 4 slings a 120 cm; 2 peckers; 2 ice tools each; crampons; 1 tent, a sleeping bag each; 2 gas cylinders and stove, bit of food, 5 screw carabiners; 8 carabiner.


expid: TKPO13301
peakid: TKPO
year: 2013
route1: NE Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Ines Papert
sponsor: German Tengkangpoche & Linku Chuli I Expedition
approach: Lukla->Thame->Tengpo
bcdate: 2013-11-03
smtdate: 2013-11-03
termdate: 2013-11-17
othersmts: Summited Linku Chuli Shar (LIK1-133-01)
campsites: BC(02/11,4300m),xxx(02/11,4300m)
agency: Adventure Thamserku
primid: LIK113301
termnote:
  Abandoned at 4300m due to bad conditions on the face, no ice at the lower part & huge hanging seracs on the upper part

routememo:
  The team did not even attempt Tengkangpoche due to the bad conditions.

  When the team arrived at Tengpo and had a closer look at the NE Face it became immediately clear to them that the conditions were not good enough to even attempt the face. On 3 Nov they ascended the Tashi Laptsa and established summit at Parchamo on 5 Nov.

  They decided to do another peak and decided for Linku Chuli Shar.


expid: TKPO13302
peakid: TKPO
year: 2013
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Marina Kopteva
sponsor: Russia-Ukraine Tengkangpoche Expedition
countries: Russia
bcdate: 2013-09-14
smtdate: 2013-10-09
smttime: 0120
termdate: 2013-10-12
agency: Asian Trekking
campsites:
  BC(14/09,4350m),C1(22/09,4500m),C2(24/09,4650m),C3(26/09,4800m),C4(27/09,4950m),C5(29/09,5100m),C6(30/09,5250m),C7(01/10,5400m),C8(04/10,5600m),Biv(05/10,5900m),Smt(09/10)

routememo:
  The last camp was a bivouac below the summit at 5900m.

  The team started from the last bivouac on 8 Oct around 12:00 pm and reached the summit on 9 Oct at 1:20 am.

  Descending by the same route during 52 hours without major stops, until they reached BC at Thengpo Lodge on 11 Oct. There were no any health problems.


expid: AMAD13337
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Ted Atkins
countries: Italy
approach: Syangboche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2013-11-01
smtdate: 2013-11-04
termdate: 2013-11-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(01/11,4700m),C1(03/11,5800m),xxx(04/6100m)
agency: Himalayan Ascent
routememo:
  BC  01 Nov  4700m
  C1  03 Nov  5800m
  HP  04 Nov  6100m by Atkins, Folini, Jackson.

  Team were the staff for Explore Himalaya’s Everest Skydive event and had been working in the Khumbu for the Skydive event for 10 days. They went straight to base camp and wanted to climb Ama Dablam quickly.

  When they reached C2 they noticed that the snow was too deep and even though they would have been prepared to climb in alpine-style they thought it was too dangerous. After having touched C2 they descended to BC.


expid: TRIA13301
peakid: TRIA
year: 2013
route1: SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Lionel Albrieux
sponsor: GMHM Shishapangma Expedition
ascent1: 1st
approach: From Xixabangma
bcdate: 2013-09-13
smtdate: 2013-10-09
termdate: 2013-10-17
othersmts: Attempted Xixabangma
campsites: BC(13/09,5300m),Biv(08-09/10,5900m),Smt(09/10)
agency: Mountain Tribes Trekking
routememo:
  The GMHM had taken an official permit basically for Shishapangma SW Face and the whole area lying around the base camp for its acclimatization. At first, the French didn't intend to climb the Triangle Peak, but when they saw there was no chance anymore to climb the SW Face of Shishapangma (High Point at 7000m), the group found up to 7 fixed rope lines in the historical corridor; then the team's motivation split. Jourdain Didier had left previously the BC, whereas Moatti and Bonniot eventually found motivation to climb. The light team did two bivouacs at the same place [before and after summiting].

  "Sursunri" means triangle in Tibetan. Triangle Peak lies on the border between Nepal and China. The French have done the first known ascent of the mountain by the southeastern ridge.


expid: BARU14101
peakid: BARU
year: 2014
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Argentina
leaders: Matias Erroz
sponsor: Argentinean-Norwegian Baruntse Expedition 2014
countries: Norway
bcdate: 2014-04-23
smtdate: 2014-04-23
termdate: 2014-04-24
termnote: Abandoned at 5450m due to client not motivated, BC dirty and too far away from headwall
campsites: BC(23/04,5450m),xxx
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  Deep snow on approach to BC, 2 members helicoptered out. BC was covered with snow and water. Not above BC for members and Sherpas.

  After having climbed Mera Peak with another group, Erroz and Evensen crossed the Amphu Laptsa and went to Baruntse base camp. However, Evensen was not really motivated as initially there would have been four clients, but his friends had cancelled prior to the expedition, so he was just on his own. Furthermore Erroz thought that BC was too far away from the headwall and too dirty.


  Erroz by email on 7 June:

  "Where we've been, it is really bad. Our BC was very long way to wall, and so dirty. But I know there is another BC higher. Just 30 minutes more, so next time I will go there."


expid: EVER14117
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Joe Raftis
sponsor: Canadian Everest South
bcdate: 2014-04-14
smtdate: 2014-04-14
termdate: 2014-04-21
termnote: Abandoned at 5350m due to Sherpa strike
campsites: BC(14/04,5350m),xxx
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  Only climbed to 5700m on moraine side of BC to acclimatize on 16th April. Waited few days to see how Sherpa strike developed, then abandoned climb.


expid: EVER14137
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Liu Yong
sponsor: First Chinese Women Everest Expedition
bcdate: 2014-04-23
smtdate: 2014-04-23
termdate: 2014-04-26
termnote: Abandoned at 5350m due to Sherpa strike
othersmts: Summited Lobuche East on 22 April
campsites: BC(23/04,5350m),xxx
agency: Dreamers Destination Treks (Seven Summit Treks pmt)
routememo:
  The team first went to Lobuche East to acclimatize and all nine members summited it on 22 April. But one member, Wang Hai-Cheng, developed a serious case of cerebral edema when he reached the summit and was unable to stand up and was semi-conscious. He recovered at a lower altitude.

  BC was occupied on 23 April. The next day the members rested and on the 25th they began a period of training in mountaineering. A week earlier, on the 18th, the fatal avalanche had struck, and Sherpas and foreign climbers had started to leave the mountain. On the 26th Liu consulted with his trekking agent, Temba of Dreamer's Destination, who advised canceling the climb, and that evening Liu called off their climbing plans although the training program at BC continued into early May. Liu planned to return to Everest the following year.

  None of the members set foot above BC, but two of his team's six Sherpas went up to C2 to clear that camp. They abandoned their gear at C1. 

  By this time, on the 25th, Liu had seen from BC a huge avalanche rush down a couloir on Everest's West Shoulder; he also saw masses of ice hanging on the shoulder appearing ready to crash down too.

  Sherpas:
    Pema Tshering Sherpa, 17/12/83, Beding
    Raj Kumar Magar, Tashinam, Dolakha


expid: EVER14140
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Muneo Nukita
sponsor: World Expedition Consultants Everest Expedition 2014
termnote: Abandoned at 5350m due to Sherpa strike
othersmts: Mera Peak
agency: Rolwaling Trek
routememo:
  Went to Mera Peak to acclimatize and then, because of Sherpa strike and closure of Everest, went directly from Mera BC to Kathmandu.


expid: EVER14105
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Jim Williams
sponsor: Explorodus Everest Expedition 2014
countries: Australia
bcdate: 2014-04-16
smtdate: 2014-04-16
termdate: 2014-04-26
termnote: Abandoned at 5350m due to Sherpa strike
campsites: BC(16/04,5350m)
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  On the 18th of April, four Sherpas from this expedition carried loads to C1, dumped them there and returned to BC. Later that morning at 6:45 am, a fatal avalanche killed 16 Sherpas who were carrying loads in the Icefall for other teams.

  On the next day, the sirdar for this team, Nima Tashi, sent their four other Sherpas home to Pangboche and Phortse with instructions to stay there unless sent for. He himself went to climb nearby Lobuche East and when he came back to BC on the 22nd, he learned about the "impossible conditions" (according to Williams) imposed by some Sherpas (not from Khumbu) for the resumption of climbing, and he "didn't want any part of this threat" to other teams. He was concerned that these rebels would attack base camp staffs and even members of teams who attempted to go back up the mountain.

  Williams decided on the 23rd to cancel the climb, and everyone left BC on the 26th. The members flew from Namche Bazar to Lukla to Kathmandu by helicopter. The loads at C1 were abandoned.

  Sherpa:
    Nima Tashi, 4/4/60, Pangboche, Everest X8


expid: EVER14106
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Ben Jones
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) NBC Everest Expedition
countries: UK
bcdate: 2014-04-13
smtdate: 2014-04-23
termdate: 2014-04-27
termnote: Abandoned at 5350m due to Sherpa strike
campsites: BC(13/04,5350m)
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  On their way to BC, the team walked to the base of Pumori's SE Face on 16 April and were in BC on the 17th for the Everest puja. On the 18th, Jones joined Eric Murphy, et al, in rescue efforts in the icefall following the fatal avalanche that morning.  On the 19th, the team sat around BC. They did no loading-carrying or climbing attempts.

  On 23 April, Jones talked with Lhakpa Rita, their sirdar and Everest veteran, Henry Todd, a veteran British Everest team leader and member of a British expedition, plus members of his own expedition and concluded the climb should be abandoned. The members left BC on the 25th and Jones on the 27th.

  This team and Murphy's Alpine Ascents team shared a pool of climbing Sherpas. But in the end, five of the Sherpas who were killed by the avalanche on the 18th, Mingma Nuru and Dorje Sherpa were with Jones and the other three Alpine Ascents fatalities, Ang Tshiri, Nima and Phur Temba, were with Eric Murphy's party.

  Sherpa Sirdar:
    Lhakpa Rita, 9/9/66, from Thami, but now lives in Shoreline, Washington, USA, 
      Everest X15, Cho Oyu X7

  Deceased Sherpas:
    Mingma Nuru, Namche-4
    Dorje Sherpa, Namche-4


expid: EVER14107
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Chris Groves
sponsor: Jagged Globe Everest Expedition 2014
countries: Australia, France
bcdate: 2014-04-12
smtdate: 2014-04-12
termdate: 2014-04-27
termnote: Abandoned at 5350m due to Sherpa strike
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m)
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
routememo:
  On 21 April four loads of the team's gear were carried to C1. These loads were soon shuttled up to C2, where they are now stored for use next year.

  On 18th April, a number of various teams load-carrying Sherpas had to stop in the Icefall and bunched up waiting for ladders to be put together in the area known as the football field.

  One of this team's Sherpas was killed by the avalanche that struck at 6:45 am. He was Pasang Karma.

  The decision to abandon the climb was made on 23 April following the decision by many Sherpas not to continue the climb. Groves heard that few Sherpas from Rolwaling and Makalu areas instigated the walk-out.

  One member was evacuated by helicopter: Philip Pearson apparently suffered a "mini-stroke" on 14 April. He was at BC and suddenly fell over, unconscious. Groves escorted him to a Kathmandu hospital and returned to BC the next day by helicopter.

  Deceased Sherpa:
    Pasang Karma, 16/7/75, from Bupsa, Jubing-5, Solu
      Everest X1 with David Hamilton in May 2013


expid: EVER14108
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Garrett Madison
sponsor: Everest Wingsuit Expedition 2014
bcdate: 2014-04-13
smtdate: 2014-04-18
termdate: 2014-04-28
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to fatal avalanche
campsites: BC(13/04,5350m),xxx(18/04,5800m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  The team of two members arrived at BC on 13 April. On the 18th the fatal avalanche struck Sherpas in the Icefall at 6:45 am, and Joby Ogwyn immediately concluded that his intended flight from the summit wearing a wingsuit would not be possible as planned, that the climbing situation would not be resolved very soon, and he prepared to leave the mountain quickly because of a crowded schedule of obligations for the rest of the year. On the 20th, he and Garrett Madison walked down to Gorak Shep, and from here Ogwyn flew to Kathmandu by helicopter and left Nepal.

  Madison stayed. He went into Icefall on the 18th and 19th and joined the effort to rescue the Sherpas buried by the avalanche including three with his own team, Dorje Khatri, Phur Temba Sherpa and Thendorje Sherpa, whose bodies were recovered from the debris. They had been carrying loads up to C1, the first of this team's load carriers above BC.

  By the 23rd it was clear that no climbing on the mountain would be possible this season. Some agitating Sherpas had presented 13 demands before they would agree to the resumption of climbing. He left BC on the 28th, visited Thendorje's family at Pangboche and continued to Lukla to fly to Kathmandu.

  Deceased Sherpas:
    Dorje Khatri, 19/12/68, Lelep-9, Taplejung, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X2
    Phur Temba, 24/6/89, Yaphu-9, Makalu-Barun, Everest X1, Manaslu X1
    Thendorje, 22/4/83, Pangboche, Everest X6, Manaslu X1


expid: EVER14111
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Chile
leaders: Eugenio Guzman
sponsor: Chilean 2014 Everest Expedition
countries: Argentina
bcdate: 2014-04-09
smtdate: 2014-04-18
termdate: 2014-04-24
termnote: Abandoned at 5700m due to Sherpa strike
campsites: BC(09/04,5350m),xxx(18/04,5700m)
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  The team took two short trips into the Icefall for practice. On the 15th they went only to the "popcorn field" at about 5600m, and on the 18th they went again into the Icefall intending to reach the "football field" a bit farther up, but at 6:30 am they turned around for personal reasons. As they were descending to BC, they saw the avalanche fall at 6:45 am and hurried to BC, where they arrived safely at 7:40 am.

  They never moved up from BC again. The climb was cancelled on 23 April. Members left BC on the 24th and visited Khumjung on their way out to Lukla. The leader, Guzman, left BC on the 28th to take a plane from Lukla.


expid: EVER14109
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Tim Rippel
sponsor: Peak Freaks Everest Expedition 2014
countries: Australia, Belgium, India, Myanmar, Netherlands, Norway
bcdate: 2014-04-10
smtdate: 2014-04-22
termdate: 2014-04-25
termnote: Abandoned at 5350m due to fatal avalanche and Sherpa strike
campsites: BC(10/04,5350m),xxx(5350m)
agency: Senge Treks & Expeditions
routememo:
  The expedition arrived at BC on 10 April, had their puja the next day, and on the 13th all members except Kee Yo Dwe walked to the site for ABC's below Pumori's SE Face. On the 14th, members were given training at the start of the Icefall. The day after that, the team's 12 Sherpas carried loads to C1's site at 5800m. The 16th and 17th were rest days, and on the 18th the 12 Sherpas carried more loads up from BC to C2's site at 6300m and returned to BC. (No one from this team slept in C1 or C2).

  The fatal avalanche struck Sherpas in the Icefall on the 18th. Rippel declared the expedition was abandoned on 22 April, and seven members left BC on the 25th.  Rippel and three more members flew from Lukla to Phaplu in a helicopter on 2 May, and on the 3rd they took a Jeep to Kathmandu in a rough 15-hour ride.

  In the meantime, Kee Yo Dwe had gotten altitude sickness at BC on 13 April, went to the clinic at BC that day and was put on oxygen; he was evacuated to Kathmandu on the 14th.

  One of the team's Sherpas, Mingma Tenzing (born 30/6/87) from Namche Bazar, also died of altitude sickness. He got sick in BC and died on 2 April in Kathmandu.

  Deceased Sherpa:
    Mingma Tenzing (died of HAPE at BC)


expid: EVER14110
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: David Hahn
sponsor: Rainier Mountaineering (RMI) Everest 2014
countries: Canada, China, Poland
bcdate: 2014-04-11
smtdate: 2014-04-12
termdate: 2014-04-25
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to Sherpa strike
campsites: BC(11/04,5350m),C1(12/04,5800m,6400m)
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  This team was one of the first to arrive at BC. On 11 April Hahn, Justman, Nugent and five Sherpas went to C1 with loads and slept there that night. A few days later, seven Sherpas ferried loads to C2 and dumped them.

  No one climbed higher. On the 18th, the day of the fatal avalanche, Hahn and Justman went into the Icefall to help rescue two Sherpas.

  Their Sherpas said on the 24th that they were ready to go back up and climb the mountain, but they clearly were not ready. The climb was called off on the 23rd, and members left BC on the 25th; Hahn who had constantly been in touch with his office, left by helicopter while the rest trekked to Lukla.


expid: EVER14112
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Malaysia
leaders: Azim Afif Ishak
sponsor: Malaysians to Everest
countries: Belgium
bcdate: 2014-04-05
smtdate: 2014-04-05
termdate: 2014-04-18
termnote: Abandoned at 5350m due to Sherpa strike
campsites: BC(05/04,5350m),xxx
agency: Ever Quest Expeditions
routememo:
  The team's members began arriving at BC on 5 April, some were slow getting there, and their Belgian colleague turned up on the 14th. On the 15th, they began acclimatizing by climbing nearby peaks; they made a high camp on an unnamed one 5777m high that day, reached its summit on the 16th and descended to high camp, and on the 17th were back in Everest BC. On the 18th they went to their BC for Lobuche East. The next day all members and seven Sherpas were on the summit and descended to Lobuche BC.

  Next they trekked to Pheriche, where they stayed on the 20th and 21st. They spent the night of the 22nd at Lobuche Lodge in the village of the same name. They returned to Everest BC on the 23rd to discover that teams were deciding to leave the mountain. On the 27th they decided they also would abandon the climb, left BC on the 28th and flew from Lukla to Kathmandu on 2 May.

  Meanwhile three Sherpas had carried loads from BC to C2. Now they stored the loads with other teams' gear at C2 for the return to Everest next year by all the Malaysians.


expid: EVER14113
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Mike Roberts
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Everest 2014 Working Group
countries: Switzerland, USA
bcdate: 2014-04-12
smtdate: 2014-04-12
termdate: 2014-04-19
termnote: Abandoned at 5350m due to fatal avalanche
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),xxx
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  This team, which focused on making a film, was closely associated with the climbing expedition led by Mike Roberts. They shared a pool of 24 Sherpas, who carried loads to C1 and C2, and three of whom were killed by the avalanche of 18 April. None of their members went above BC before their climb was cancelled. After their arrival at BC on 12 April, they acclimatized and did a lot of filming in the BC area. Lydia Bradey, assigned to help the film-makers, left BC well after the members because the filming crew spent more days taking more pictures around BC. (The filming did not include footage about the Sherpa strike.)


expid: EVER14114
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Dean Staples
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Everest 2014
countries: Australia, Iceland, Japan, Nepal, UK, Ukraine
bcdate: 2014-04-12
smtdate: 2014-04-18
termdate: 2014-05-04
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to fatal avalanche
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),xxx(18/04,5800m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  This team and one led by Michael Roberts, both Adventure Consultants expeditions, shared a pool of 24 climbing Sherpas. These Sherpas carried loads of gear up to C1 and C2, and three of them perished in the avalanche that struck on 18 April. Their activities are described here, but not repeated in the report on Robert's team's return.

  On 14 or 15 April, all the members of this team trekked for acclimatization from Everest BC to the site for base camps for climbing the SE Face of Pumori and returned to their own BC. Meanwhile all 24 climbing Sherpas were busy ferrying loads from BC to C1 and C2 on the 14th to 16th.

  On 18 April all the Sherpas once more set out from BC with loads from the camps, but they were hit by the fatal avalanche that came off the West Shoulder, down a couloir, and landed at the upper part of the so called football field that morning; three of them Chhiring Ongyal, Lhakpa Tenzing and Phurba Ongyal were killed.

  On the 21st the team's surviving Sherpas decided they did not want to continue, and so the climb was cancelled. Most members left BC on the 23rd. The loads left at C1 were moved on the 26th to C2 by one Sherpa and stored with the C2 loads and other teams' gear for use next year. The leader left BC on 4 May.

  Sherpas killed by avalanche:
    Chhiring Ongyal, 20-25 years old from Khumjung, no 8000ers
    Lakpa Tenjing, 22 years old, Khumjung, no 8000ers
    Phurba Ongyal, 26/5/88, Pangboche, Everest 26/5/12 with Mike Hamill and 
      21/5/13 with Dean Staples


expid: DHA114101
peakid: DHA1
year: 2014
route1: NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Elias de Andres
sponsor: American Dhaulagiri I Expedition
countries: Australia, Spain
bcdate: 2014-04-06
smtdate: 2014-05-03
termdate: 2014-05-06
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to deep snow and exhaustion
campsites: BC(06/04,5300m),C1(10/04,5600m),C2(25/04,6550m),C3(03/05,7500m),xxx(03/05,7500m)
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
routememo:
  BC was established on 6 April, and on the 10th all members except Schletty occupied C1. Schletty had a back problem and had intended to be the BC manager; she went only as far as the base of the icefall.

  All the remaining members except Hachett occupied C2 on the 25th, but only two members, Beren and Schellens, moved up to C3 on the NE Ridge on 1 May.

  On the 3rd, the two members went to the right and gained some altitude as they climbed over to the start of the normal final traverse. But now bad weather was making itself felt; it was now snowing almost every afternoon. To get to C3 they had to wade through waist-deep snow, which had been very tiring. At 7500m on the 3rd, they felt "it wasn't going to happen" in Schellens words, and they retreated to C3. But they decided to wait another night. There was no improvement in the weather, so on the 4th they descended to BC.

  Beren had brought along his skis, and he skied the entire distance from 7500m to BC at 5000m.


expid: DHA114102
peakid: DHA1
year: 2014
route1: NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Adele Pennington
sponsor: Two Britons to Dhaulagiri
bcdate: 2014-04-06
smtdate: 2014-05-05
termdate: 2014-05-06
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to deep snow, fatigue, Sherpas unwilling to go high
campsites: BC(06/04,5350m),C1(10/04,5600m),C2(23/04,6500m),C3(04/05,7300m),xxx(05/05,7500m)
agency: Su-Swagatam Treks
routememo:
  One member, Ron Rutland, left the climb only six days after their arrival at BC and got no higher than C1. He was 66 years old, and he had exhausted his supply of strength. He left on 10 April.

  His only teammate, Adele Pennington, stayed on. She had two Sherpas with her, but she said they were not really helpful. They went with her as far as C3, but they didn't want to go any higher because, they said, they were tired.

  Pennington herself went 200m above C3 on 5 May and then gave up the attempt. She descended on the 5th to C1 the same day and was back in BC on the 6th. She left BC on the 14th.


expid: BARU13311
peakid: BARU
year: 2013
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Igor Komarov
sponsor: Russian Baruntse Expedition 2013
approach: Chutanga->Kothe->Tagnak->Khare->Open camp at 4600m
bcdate: 2013-10-05
smtdate: 2013-10-11
termdate: 2013-10-16
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to bad snow condition and very high risk of avalanche
campsites: BC(05/10,5445m),C1(08/10,6100m),xxx(11/10,6800m)
agency: 7 Summits Adventure
routememo:
  Russian team arrived at BC about 7 Oct. Very deep snow (waist-deep). Team members only reached C1.

  All seven members spent night at C1. Pemba Nurbu and Nurbu Chhiri fixed the line up to 6800m. Until 15 October evey day snow fall, approximately 2 meters at BC. Over all snow conditions on the mountain was very bad and difficult to work.

  Mehdi van Haver (French-Swiss) reported that when they left (on the 13th of October), the Seven Summit Adventure Sherpas were 200m close from the summit (their team consisting in 7 Russians + 3 Sherpas), their clients going up for C1 that same day. Summit expected on the 16th or 17th of October.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Rinji
    Pemba Nurbu
    Nurbu Chhiring


expid: EVER14115
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Phil Crampton
sponsor: Altitude Junkies Everest Expedition 2014
countries: Canada, China, New Zealand, USA
bcdate: 2014-04-11
smtdate: 2014-04-11
termdate: 2014-04-26
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to Sherpa strike
campsites: BC(11/04,5350m),xxx(18/04,5800m)
agency: Expedition Himalaya
routememo:
  The team arrived at BC on 11 April. On the 14th 21 Sherpas carried loads to C1 and three days later carried 21 more loads to C2. Then on the 18th the fatal avalanche struck Sherpas in the Icefall. No members moved above BC except on the 18th Crampton, Harris and Kay went up from BC into the Icefall to join six of their Sherpas in the rescue effort. They recovered body parts.

  Crampton was very reluctant to cancel the climb, and his Sherpas were willing to resume the climb, but after threats were made by some agitating Sherpas, Crampton capitulated and called it off on the 25th. His members left BC in helicopters on the 26th and 27th; Crampton himself flew out on the 30th.

  Crampton said he knew the names on only two of the Sherpas who were pressing for all the climbers to leave the mountain immediately. They were one with the Jagged Globe team (Pasang Tenzing, 1/10/84, Beding) and one who was climbing as usual with the Adventure Consultants group, Pasang Bhote from Makalu area (there are two who climb with this company and it was not immediately clear which was on the mountain this time).

  It is notable that no Khumbu Sherpas were involved in organizing the movement, which can be called a strike for lack of a better term. Some of the largest commerical teams, like IMG employ only Khumbu men.

  Pasang Tenzing from Beding, Rolwaling, is a UIAA candidate member who was boasting about it and aggressively claiming to be all-knowing. If any action is to be taken again these agitators, Pasang Tenzing's UIAA membership candidature could be cancelled.


expid: EVER14116
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice, Mark Woodward
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Everest Expedition 2014
countries: Australia, China, Japan, Norway, UK, USA
bcdate: 2014-03-10
smtdate: 2014-04-10
termdate: 2014-05-02
termnote: Abandoned at 5350m due to Sherpa strike
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East
campsites: BC(10/04,5350m),xxx
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  The team arrived at BC on 10 April and were joined there three days later by the Himalayan Experience team for Lhotse. On the 14th all members of both groups first went to climb nearby Lobuche East, which they summited on the 24th and 25th, they returned to Everest BC on the 26th.

  Meanwhile the fatal avalanche had struck Sherpas in the Icefall on the 18th. No Himalayan Experience members set food in the Icefall. Their Sherpas had carried loads to C2 on the 14th, 16th and 18th; their loads were packed up on the 26th to await next year's climbers.

  Brice put off the decision to cancel this year's climb until 1 May. He had hoped that most Sherpas, including his, the majority of whom who were from Phortse in Khumbu, would resume their climbs, but when it was clear that intimidation was making his men too fearful to go back, he reluctantly agreed to call it off.

  Brice says that these angry young men from Rolwaling and Makalu were at the base of Manaslu in the autumn of 2012 following the fatal avalanche there and urged people to leave immediately, and they joined the fight by some Sherpas against three foreign climbers on Everest the next spring.

  Members of this team started leaving BC on 2 May (Brice ahd already returned to Kathmandu on 30 April to meet officials in an attempt to save the climb).

  One of his members, Jing Wang from China, was determined to climb Everest. Brice suggested she go to the north side, but that didn't materialize; Brice and all of his Sherpas refused to help her to return to the south side. She is a wealthy businesswoman and eventually found another agency to help her. They provided her with seven Sherpas and a flight by helicopter to C2, thus avoiding trips through the Icefall.


expid: DHA114103
peakid: DHA1
year: 2014
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Iran
leaders: Parvaneh Kazemi
sponsor: First Iranian Woman on Dhaulagiri
approach: Via Italian BC (WSW of BC)
bcdate: 2014-04-15
smtdate: 2014-05-06
termdate: 2014-05-10
termnote: Abandoned at 7250m due to problems with deep snow, snowfall and Sherpa
campsites: BC(15/04,4600m),ABC(21/04,5150m),C1(22/04,5700m),C2(28/04,6570m),C3(06/05,7250m)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  The team (Kazemi, Pasang Sherpa and base camp cook) reached the site of the Italian base camp of decades ago on 11 April. They had to stop there because of deep snow ahead. They stayed four days until a big group came along and fixed ropes on the slope down to the valley below on the trail to the normal BC site for their NE Ridge route. They arrived at BC on 15 April.

  Deep snow remained a problem. On the 21st they were unable to reach the site for their C1 and had to make an advance base camp at 5100m. The next day they got to their C1 site at 5700m.

  They were back in BC on the 23rd. On the 26th they returned to C1, and on the 27th they aimed for C2, but again they failed to reach their target because of snow. Snow was falling and it was so foggy "we couldn't see anything." They were able to make C2 at 6570m on the following day since now Adele Pennington's Sherpas had fixed rope.

  But on the 29th they made no further progress because Pasang Sherpa insisted that they return to BC. They finally moved back to C1 on 4 May and to C2 on the 5th. On the 6th, with Pasang climbing very slowly, they managed to make C3 at 7250m after nine or ten hours.

  That night, Kazemi couldn't sleep at all. Pasang was all but useless; he failed to make a proper arrangement in their tent for proper space for them to lie down (she had to lie on ground that was entirely uphill or downhill beneath her).

  Pasang had been a constant problem, not doing his job properly, frequently falling down, always wanting to descend and sleep. On 7 May, she decided it was better not to continue fighting him. She went down to C1 with him behind her ("it was much more safe for me" when he was behind). They returned to BC on the 8th and left it on the 10th.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Sherpa, 24/4/81, Ramechap, Gudel, Solu, Dhaulagiri X1, Lhotse X1


expid: EVER14101
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Dawa Steven Sherpa, Asian Trekking Staff
sponsor: Asian Trekking Eco-Everest Expedition 2014
countries: Australia, Austria, Belgium, China, Denmark, France, India, Poland, S Africa, USA
bcdate: 2014-04-14
smtdate: 2014-04-14
termdate: 2014-04-28
termnote: Abandoned at 5350m due to Sherpa strike
campsites: BC(14/04,5350m),xxx
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  The Asian Trekking Eco Everest expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-4 climbers each). Asian Trekking provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below.

  The Sherpas of the Eco Everest Expedition had been through the Khumbu Icefall several times and had carried 20 loads to C2 before a fatal avalanche of April 18 occurred in the Icefall that killed 16 Sherpas from various teams.

  Despite contemplating to continue climbing, Dawa Steven Sherpa (the leader and expedition manager) decided to cancel the expedition on April 24, as it was not possible for him to ensure the safety of his Sherpas and members from agitating/protesting Sherpas.


  Carsten Pedersen (Denmark)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),xxx(14/04,5350m)
  Left:  28/04/2013
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 5350m due to Sherpa strike


  Sibusiso Vilane (S Africa)
  Saray Khumalo (S Africa)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),xxx(14/04,5350m)
  Left:  03/05/2013
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 5350m due to Sherpa strike


  Aparna Kumar (India)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),xxx(14/04,5350m)
  Left:  26/04/2013
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 5350m due to Sherpa strike


  Brian Freeman (Australia)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),xxx(14/04,5350m)
  Left:  27/04/2013
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 5350m due to Sherpa strike


  Sebastien Canderle (France)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),xxx(14/04,5350m)
  Left:  28/04/2013
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 5350m due to Sherpa strike


  Isiah Janzen (USA)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),xxx(14/04,5350m)
  Left:  28/04/2013
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 5350m due to Sherpa strike


  Helmut Wagner (Austria)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),xxx(14/04,5350m)
  Left:  28/04/2013
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 5350m due to Sherpa strike


  Andrzej Wojda (Poland)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),xxx(14/04,5350m)
  Left:  28/04/2013
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 5350m due to Sherpa strike

  Climbed Mera Peak after leaving BC.


  Andreas Holzer (Austria)
  Wolfgang Klocker (Austria)
  Daniel Kopp (Austria)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),xxx(14/04,5350m)
  Left:  28/04/2013 (took helicopter to Ktm)
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 5350m due to Sherpa strike


  Reid Larson (USA)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),xxx(14/04,5350m)
  Left:  26/04/2013
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 5350m due to Sherpa strike


  Jelle Veyt (Belgium)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),xxx(14/04,5350m)
  Left:  28/04/2013
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 5350m due to Sherpa strike


  Xia Bo-Yu (China)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),xxx(14/04,5350m)
  Left:  28/04/2013
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 5350m due to Sherpa strike


  William Burke (USA)

  Name:  None
  Camps: Did not arrive (intended to climb after summiting north side)


expid: EVER14102
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: William Burke, Asian Trekking
sponsor: Asian Trekking International Everest Expedition 2014
countries: Belgium, Bulgaria, France, Hungary, India, Nepal, Poland, Russia
approach: Nyalam->Tingri->Everest BC
bcdate: 2014-04-12
smtdate: 2014-05-24
smttime: 0530
termdate: 2014-05-31
campsites: BC(12/04,5200m),ABC(17/04,6400m),C1(19/04,7000m),C2(21/05,7900m),C3(22/05,8300m),Smt(24-25/05)
achievment: 1st vegan to summit Everest?
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  The Asian Trekking International Everest expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1 or 2 climbers each). Asian Trekking provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  William Burke (USA)

  Name:  Everest Challenge 2014
  Camps: BC(12/04,5200m),ABC(17/04,6400m),C1(19/04,7000m),C2(21/05,7900m),
         C3(22/05,8300m),Smt(25/05)
  Left:  31/05/2013
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success

  After the first acclimatization rotation, Burke went to Tingri and the Hot Springs and spent five days there. He returned to ABC on 19 May to start his summit attempt. He reached C2 on 22 May and stayed two nights there. In the night of 24 May, he left C3 at 9:20 pm. Weather was clear and windy with light snow. Straightforward climb. Summited at 9:30 am. They spent about half an hour on the summit. There was no view due to thick cloud.

  They descended to C3, where they arrived at about 1 pm. On 26 May a storm hit and they descended to C1 in gale force winds. The descent took them about 10 hours as they had to wade in knee-deep snow. On 27 May they descended to ABC.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from below the headwall at 6800m to summit to C1 by Burke 
    From C2 to summit to C2 by Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Gyaluk (Gyalu Lama), Patle, Okhaldhunga, 21/8/75
    Mingma Nuru, Thame, Namche-7, 28/1/86 (1st 8000er)


  David Klein (Hungary)
  Edina Aniko Torok (Hungary) (BC Mgr)

  Name:  Spar Everest Expedition
  Camps: BC(15/04,5180m),ABC(21/04,6333m),C1(28/04,7039m),C2(06/05,7600m),
         C3(23/05,8300m),xxx(24/05,8700m)
  Left:  28/05/2013
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 8700m (top of Second Step) due to lack of oxygen for Sherpa,
         too slow on summit schedule

  On 23 May had a 4-hour rest at C3 from 3 pm to 7 pm. Then climbed all night, needing 5 hours to climb the Second Step. Reached the top of it at 9:40 am on 24 May. Here decided to abandon as his Sherpa didn't have enough oxygen left anymore to finish (one of the 2 bottles not working) and as they were 3 hours late on the schedule agreed with David's base camp manager Edina Torok (had decided for a summit time maximum 8 to 9 am). In fact they would have needed 3 more hours to reach the top. Descended the same day to C1, the day after to ABC and on 26 May were back at BC.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken, used by Sherpa from C3 to high point to C3
    Not taken, not used for David Klein

  Sherpa:
    Ang Mingma Sherpa, 21/2/68, Yilajung


  Atanas Skatov (Bulgaria)

  Name:  Bulgarian Everest North Expedition 2014
  Camps: BC(15/04,5200m),ABC(21/04,6440m),C1(28/04,7040m),C2(12/05,7700m),
         C3(23/05,8300m),Smt(24/05)
  Left:  28/05/2013
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success

  At first during the final summit push, his Sherpa didn't want to go anymore, so they descended 150m. Then Atanas saw people coming up and decided to come back up, having lost 1 hour maybe on their schedule. On summit was a bit cold but good weather with no wind and clear sky, good views "perfect".

  Claims 1st vegan to climb N Ridge of Everest.

  Oxygen:
    Taken, used from C3 to summit to 8400m (2 bottles up, 1 bottle down)

  Sherpa:
    Phur Gyalzen Sherpa, 16/9/70, Namche-9, Eeverst S X4, Everest N X5


  Ryszard Pawlowski (Poland)
  Krystian Oleksiak (Poland)

  Name:  Krystian Everest North Expedition 2014
  Camps: BC(15/04,5200m),ABC(21/04,6400m),C1(22/04,7050m),C2(22/25,7800m),
         C3(23/05,8300m),xxx(24/05,8500m)
  Left:  29/05/2013
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success

  On 24 May at first summit push, Krystian Oleksiak left C3 earlier at 11 pm on previous day, whereas Ryszard Pawlowski left at 8 am, so that they could join for the summit; both met at 11 am at 8500m; but here Krystian Oleksiak considered the wind too strong, so they went back down together at C3, Ryszard deciding however to try again next day. Oleksiak left Ryszard Pawlowski at 1 pm and went back down to C1, reaching ABC the the day after and BC on the 26 May.

  On 25 May for the summit push, Ryszard Pawlowski started at 00:30 hrs, summiting short before 8 am, spent 40 minutes on top ("maybe more as I had good conditions with clear sky"), then went back to C3 at 11 am then C1 on the same day. On 26 May he was back to ABC and BC the day after. Every day from 2:30 pm weather turned bad.

  Krystian climbed with Chhiring Phinjo Sherpa, 29/4/1973, Khumjung
  Ryszard climbed with Pasang Sherpa, 12/8/78, Salleri-9 [Thamo?]


  Philippe Hullaert (Belgium)
  Claude Faivre (France)

  Name:  Everest 2014
  Camps: BC(23/04,5200m),ABC(30/04,6400m),C1(16/05,7050m),C2(23/05,7800m),
         xxx(23-24/05,7800m)
  Left:  28/05/2013
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Abandoned at 7800m due to lack of time and reliable information

  Philippe Hullaert and Claude Faivre considered they were in good shape with good timing, but without any weather forecast, they could only rely on the Sherpas. They felt like the Sherpas lied in order not to go up, the weather and summit windows being too short (knowing 26 May wouldn't match for weather) this in order to sort a bit some people out from the normal route to be less crowded.

  24 May back at C1, day after to ABC, on 27 May back to BC.

  Oxygen: Used at C2 for sleeping

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Tshering Sherpa, 27/12/1973, Namche-7
    Pasang Nuru, Jubing, 17/5/74


  Debabrata Mukherjee (India)
  Biplab Baudya (India)

  Name:  Touch the Sky Everest 2014
  Camps: BC(15/04,5200m),ABC(24/04,6400m),C1(3/05,7050m),C2(23/05,7800m),
         C3(24/05,8300m),Smt(25/05)
  Left:  29/05/2013
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success

  Went up to C1 for sleeping during acclimatization time.

  Summit push:

  Started from ABC on 22 May, sleeping C1 that day.
  On 23 May slept at C2.

  On 24 May rested at C3, then started for summit at 10:15 pm. Mukherjee reached summit at 9:03 am next day, Biplab at 9:40 am (Nepali time), then both went back to C3; having no more oxygen from 8000m, they took breaths in remaining bottles of C3.

  On 26 May both were back to C1, here their Sherpas left them alone.
  On 27 May duo went back to ABC.
  On 28 May back to BC.

  The duo reports not so good weather conditions for summit day, with clear sky but terrible wind, the latter having decreased temporarily during the evening before becoming gusty from midnight and during the night. Day after, 26 May, after an almost calm morning, weather deteriorated again in cloudy and gusty conditions, all 4 reaching C1 in "real bad weather."

  Accidents: black frostbite on first fingers for Baudya (3 smallest fingers on 
    right hand, 2 smallest fingers on left hand) 

  Oxygen:
    Taken from C1 (for sleeping at C2 and C3 up) to summit to 8000m 
      (plus at 7600m at C3 down)

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Tenzing Sherpa, 2/2/76, Solukhumbu
    Nima Kanchha Sherpa, 30/8/79, Namche-7


  Victor Bobok (Russia)
  Alexander Victorov (Russia)

  Name:  Dream Team Everest Expedition 2014
  Camps: 
  Left:  
  Hired: 2
  Term:  No Smt

  Sherpas:
    Nawang Kalden, Solu, 21/5/91
    Lakpa Tenzing, Namche-8, 7/9/90


expid: EVER14121
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Wangchen Sonam
sponsor: Holy Mountain Adventure Everest Expedition 2014
smtdate: 2014-05-23
smttime: 1200
campsites: BC,ABC(6400m),C1(7000m),C2(7900m),C3(8400m),Smt(23,25/05)
agency: Holy Mountain Adventure
routememo:
  A rope team of 11 Tibetans summited on May 23 at 2:15 after 10 hours of work to set the path from C2 at 7900m.


expid: AMAD13338
peakid: AMAD
year: 2013
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Jon Gupta
sponsor: Jon Gupta Ama Dablam Expedition 2013
countries: Denmark
bcdate: 2013-11-16
smtdate: 2013-11-25
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2013-12-03
campsites: BC(16/11,4800m),ABC(19/11,5200m),C1(20/11,5800m),C2(24/11,6100m),Smt(25-26/11,01/12)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  - 16th Nov
  ABC - 19th Nov
  C1  - 20th Nov
  C2  - 24th Nov

  Jon Gupta Summited on 25th Nov. Left C1 at 3 am, summitted at 9 am, back to base camp at 15:00 (same day).

  Rick Asher summited on 26th Nov. Left C1 on 25th. Left from C2 on 26th at 3 am, reached summit at 11 am and back to C2 for 4 pm. On 27th went from C2 to base camp. [Jon Gupta says that Asher was accompanied by a Sherpa to the summit on 26 Nov].

  Jon Gupta, Simeon Worthington, Marcus Skovhus, Paul Bennett, Aeneas Davenport, Jerry Hull all summited on 1st Dec. They were at C1 on 29th, C2 on 30th. Left C2 on 1st Dec at 4 am and reach the summited at 1:15 pm. All members back to C2 at 18:00. On the 2nd Dec all descended to base camp. Sherpas were Dorje Gyalzen, Lhakpa Wangchu and Chhetan Dorje.

  Jason Rawles, got ill and stayed at base camp when we went for the group summit attempt. He walked out with the group.

  Rick Asher walked out early. Left basecamp on 27th Nov and trekked out. Because he was finished and didn't want to wait a week for the team.


expid: HIML13313
peakid: HIML
year: 2013
route1: W Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Giuseppe Pompili
sponsor: Himlung Expedition 2013
bcdate: 2013-10-13
smtdate: 2013-10-15
termdate: 2013-10-23
campsites: BC(13/10,4850m),C1(15/10,5450m),xxx
agency: Sherpa Alpine Trekking
routememo:
  Giuseppe Pompili (email) - 12 Aug 2014

  Arrival at BC on 13 Oct 2013 (4850m). 
  Departure from BC on 23 Oct.
  Reached C1 (5450m) on 15 Oct.

  We reached C1 and mounted our tent there on 15 Oct. Then, due to bad weather, we were not able to reach it again until 21 Oct. Due to the high danger of avalanches we were not able to continue above C1.

  As far as I know, nobody was able to summit Himlung or reach above C2 in 2013 from the old BC (were we have been). This was due to mainly to bad weather in the days of our expedition (12 to 23 Oct).

  We had no climbing Sherpas.


expid: MANA13335
peakid: MANA
year: 2013
route1: NE Face
nation: Australia
leaders: Rolfe Oostra
sponsor: 360 Manaslu Expedition 2013
countries: UK
bcdate: 2013-09-07
smtdate: 2013-09-25
termdate: 2013-09-27
campsites: BC(07/09,4800m),C1(5500m),C2(6400m),C3(6800m),C4(24/09,7400m),Smt(25/09)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  http://www.360-expeditions.com/client-blogs/the-mighty-manaslu...-the-tour-of-independence,-a-bird’s-eye-view

  The Mighty Manaslu... the tour of independence, a bird’s eye view
  Jo Bradshaw - 7th January 2014

  Back in November 2011 Rolfe and I passed each other in the valley below Namche Hill, like we do, going in different directions with our respective groups to and from Everest Base Camp. A quick hello and a catch up before he threw into the conversation....’hey we are putting together an exped to Manaslu, you should come’...to which I mumbled ‘let’s talk about it’, thought nothing of it but the seed was planted.

  12 months later the email came around from Marni with the trip dossier and after much protestations like ‘how can I afford it’‘it’s so much time not to be working’, along with my normally very supportive parents nicknaming it the ‘is it really worth it’ tour, I finally changed the ‘why’ into ‘why not’ and signed on the dotted line. I then spent the next 8 months wonder what the hell I’d let myself into!

  After a great weekend at 360 HQ in the Pyrenees in May, where Rolfe put us through our paces on Pico Aneto and put our minds at rest with a great pre-exped briefing over a beer or two talking about avalanche transceivers, crevasse rescue, climbing hardware and the like, we were in no doubt that this was going to be an adventure, extremely hard at times no doubt and we were certainly going to be experiencing a more independent side to expedition life. No stopping after an hour to take a break, being able to take off to each camp on our own, with support not far away and not needing to stay in a group, it was a more grown up approach to being out on a mountain and one that I was very much looking forward to. As an expedition leader myself, I’m used to being Mother Hen so this was my time to do a bit of independent travel, so to speak.

  So the time had arrived for us to meet up at Heathrow and off we went to Kathmandu, our merry group of 4, full of nervous anticipation. After a day in Kathmandu of packing and repacking, exped briefings, high altitude meal choosing (dehydrated hi-calorie nosh) and Rolfe signing his life away with the Ministry of Tourism, we headed off to Arughat for the start of our trek. Getting to the trail head is sometimes more of an ordeal than the actual expedition itself and we weren’t disappointed! A very comfortable minibus ride for 3 hours on Nepal’s notorious roads ended abruptly in Dhading and then turned into a 6 hour cross country 4x4 bus ride on the even more notorious mountain track, packed to the rafters with our kit, crew, 2 Slovacs and our shiny clean selves. ‘Travelling on the roof is the safest place’ (honest Mum) were the words coming from up top and I finally joined Rolfe and Peter for the last 45 minutes bumpy ride to our digs for the night. All good fun!

  For the next 5 days we trekked through sweltering humidity, heavy rain, overflowing mountain streams, little villages from a Dickens novel and the most beautiful scenery I’ve seen in a long time. We followed the donkey poo and stayed in very basic but comfortable tea houses, never quite catching up with our bags until day 5 so soggy clothing was the order of the day. We played a lot of Shit Head (of course), didn’t see another Westerner until about 2 hours from Samagaon, our final tea house before Base Camp, and got fitter and stronger as we went along. Seeing Samagaon along the valley was a great sight, knowing we were to have a rest day before heading up to Base Camp and a month of camping.

  We had trekked in with Bhola, our Sirdar and Aang Phurba, our head climbing Sherpa, who were both as uncomfortable with the heat and humidity of the trek in as I was. Roll on the snow and colder climes! We met Khumba, our cook and Moni, our highly entertaining cook boy (and the worst cheat at cards), at the tea house in Samagaon who had trekked up a few days in advance with the rest of our amazing crew, LB (assistant cook boy), and Sidi and Pemba, our 2 other climbing Sherpas, to set up Base Camp. The amount of kit and equipment needed for an expedition of this type is quite unbelievable. From vital bottles of oxygen, tents for each camp, cooking equipment, toilet and shower tents to a 32” TV and DVD player, it all came up by donkey to Samagaon then by porter higher up to Base Camp. When we arrived at our tented village for a month, we were pleasantly surprised by the facilities available, nothing plush but comfortable none the less. A tent each greeted us so room to spread out and have some down time alone with a big mess tent for amazing grub and more sociable occasions, and more shit head!

  The itinerary from this point on had a basic structure with slow acclimatisation but had to be fairly fluid depending on the weather conditions and our attitudes needed to reflect this. Try and be too much into the detail and you’ll drive yourself mad. Take each day as it comes and all will be well.We’ll get there when we get there became our motto.

  Our Puja was set for the next morning, 8th September, and it snowed/rained and was generally miserable through the hour long ceremony until finally at the end the sun came out and we were dutifully covered in flour and had shots of rum passed to us (all part of the ceremony apparently!) Our climbing Sherpas suddenly seemed a lot happier as the mountain had given us its blessing and it was on with the expedition. No teams Sherpas would go higher than Base Camp until a Lama had performed a Puja and we hearda good number of them going on around camp that day and for days after.

  Our first foray up towards Camp 1 was a good day out. An hour of walking on rocks and moraine took us up to Crampon Point, where you take your first steps onto the Glacier donned with your high altitude boots, crampons, ice axe and a steady mind. Ropes had already been fixed up to lower camp 1 so we plodded steadily up for a couple of hours, over and in between crevasses, up steep ice slopes and along flatter sections before hitting the end of the fixed ropes and the snow field and a steep but steady climb up to the Himex tents at lower camp 1. We had spread out quite alot by this point as each climber walksat their own pace. As our Camp 1 was an hour’s walk and 200m higher and with no fixed ropes ahead and crevasses on the way Rolfe decided to call it a day and turned us around, catching each other up as we went down. A good day out all in all, great acclimatisation, good to see what was ahead of us and nice knowing that we had a rest day ahead too.

  After a day of sleep/eat/chill and some ice climbing practise on the glacier nearby it was time to head back up to camp 1 for our first overnight stay. Packs fully loaded and raring to go, we would head up after an early lunch.Setting out together we again spread out fairly quickly with Peter and I in front and plodding on nicely. Our camp was in a fantastic position, the highest of the tents and with amazing views...when the clouds parted! Nice to be up there early afternoon and settled in the tent, melting water and getting used to life at 5800m.

  The original plan was to climb higher to C2 at 6400m then head back down to BC. Flexibility is the key and the Ice Doctors were on their way up to fix the ropes to C2 and C3 so we decided to stay an extra day and night at C1 for additional acclimatisation as we couldn’t go higher. I am amazed at how hot it is when the sun shines brightly on snow and soon the tent turned into a sauna and our nice solid base turned into slush. A relaxed attitude of c’est la vie was the order of the day so we sat around, drank coffee, ate our dehydrated loveliness of calories, read and listened to music. The day seemed to pass very quickly and soon the sun was setting, the temperature heading towards zero and beyond and our tent base turning to a solid platform again. Time to hunker down and turn in for the night.

  The next day brought bright sunshine and buoyant moods.  We packed up our kit, storing what we were leaving behind in one of the tents and headed back down to BC with a bit of crevasse rescue/extrication practice on the way and a lovely late breakfast when we arrived in camp. The rest of the day was chill out time as was the next before we were due to head up to C1 and C2, things were starting to get a little more serious but after all, this was the reason we had come here!

  On an expedition like this you learn by doing and can make adjustments accordingly. Having left after lunch on our 2nd trip up to C1 I decided to leave straight after breakfast and try to miss the heat of the day by walking earlier. In the end Rolfe and I left BC at 9am and although I had felt great the first 2 times up, I left camp a little on the quick side and my body decided to retaliate, although enjoyable things were abit of a slog this time round. Still making good time and nice to be walking on my own for a few hours I made it to the last snow slope before our higher camp 1 where Rolfe came down to shoulder some weight and give me some encouragement for the last 20 minutes. I was pleased none the less with my decision to leave earlier and ate my packed lunch whilst looking at the most amazing views of the valleys below. The boys followed on later in the afternoon and we were all reunited for more high-calorie dried food, yum! With slight nervous anticipation we settled down for the night, ready for an early start and our first foray through the ice field.

  They say expect the unexpected on expeditions and it certainly happened today. Just after our Sherpas arrived before we were due to leave Mike announced to Rolfe that he had had enough and was going down. Slightly surprised, the rest of us left, leaving Mike to head back down to BC on his own, or so I thought. Only 30 minutes later Peter decided to call it a day too, before entering the ice field and he too headed back to BC. With the seriousness of the job in hand staring us in the face, the show must go on and we had a rather interesting climb ahead of us including a couple of ladders over crevasses and steep ice climbs ahead. This was part of the reason I had come, to get into more technical conditions and boy did we have it here. I approached each section with nervousness but a keen eye with Rolfe infront of me giving encouragement and the odd choice word. It was great fun, hard work and hugely rewarding. Reaching C2 was a slog, the final slopes biting back but getting into camp was a relief and the views were spectacular. We could just see C3 in the col above us, a mere 400m or so higher but at this altitude it makes a huge difference.

  The next day saw us take a short trip half way up to C3 without the weight of our packs, passing super guide Hiro on the way who gave us an update on the weather window for a clear summit only 7 days away, we then scooting back down to C2 to pick up our heavy loads and headed back down to C1. The need to keep moving was quite evident, especially as the heat of the day was nearly upon us and the snow and ice conditions start to become even more unstable. There was quite alot of traffic as we descended with climbers doing exactly what we had done the day before. Heading back through the ice field was exciting and nerve wracking in similar quantities and a huge sense of achievement was felt as we got back to C1. After dropping of some kit there we headed back to BC for a well earned rest.

  We arrived at BC to be greeted by super smiley Peter and Mike. They were heading out in the morning to be choppered back to Kathmandu and then fly home a few days later. It was a shame to be losing half of an already small team but your head has to rule your heart in places such as these and they knew they had made the right decision, as had we to carry on.

  There was much chat over the next 24hrs about the weather window, its speed of movement and just how long we were to stay at BC. When we arrived back from our C1/C2 outing we were advised that a weeklong stay at BC was in order but to pack our kit and be ready to move if things changed quickly. A day off followed and we woke up the next day to be told we would be staying another 24hrs at least, but don’t unpack your bag! I had mixed feelings about staying for another day let alone a whole week, we were primed and ready but life on expedition is sometimes about waiting it out and hopefully hitting the right conditions at the right time.....and then the call came, we were off! At 10am Rolfe came into the mess tent and told me that lunch was in ½ hour and we would leave by 11am....and I suddenly felt very sick! This was it, this was what all the preparation had been for. This was what the 8 months of thinking ‘what the hell’ had come to. It would take 4 days to get up to C4 and we were due to summit on 25th so it was a long burn ‘holy cow’ moment but still an effective one none the less!

  So this was it, time to haul anchor and leave Bhola and the guys at BC. They had been so instrumental in our preparation that it was a shame to leave them holding the fort. They still had an important job to do and we knew they were with us in spirit. Packs on, we slowly left our home for a few weeks and head higher and higher. The sun decided to blast us this time and having got quite burnt lips and neck from our last trip up I had to cover up. The heat was immense, like being in a microwave, the intensity of the rays was overwhelming at times and life on the glacier suddenly got quite hard. I reached camp first to find the tents almost buried. Not a sight that I had expected or was happy to see as after a long slog up just setting up and boiling water was a chore. However, it’s all part of the process and having borrowed a snow shovel from our skiing tent neighbours I started the big dig. Fortunately Rolfe joined me shortly afterwards and with a joint effort we dug out both tents, boiled a couple of pots of water and got things straight for Arthur and Phurbas arrival.

  The sun kept his hat on with vengeance the next day too and although we left nice and early, the ice field was turning into more of a slush field. The heat of yesterday had taken its toll on me slightly and I was feeling the effects. That, coupled with the collapse of a house sized serac which had squashed the ladder and filled in the crevasse it was covering, the odd ‘drop’ of snow coming down from higher slopes and Rolfe shouting ‘bloody hurry up, we don’t want to be here any longer than necessary’ made for a racing heart rate and a rather sick feeling. He was obviously quite right though and I was very happy when I caught up with him above the messed up jumble and on to slightly safer terrain. I slogged on to C2 and arrived feeling pretty rough at around 1pm. Rolfe had jogged on and put the ice on to melt, a vital but very dull job! Getting much needed calories down your neck when you want to do anything but eat is hard work. Still feeling rough later on in the day despite food and what felt like a whole gallon of water Rolfe suggested going onto Diamox. I haven’t taken this drug for many years as I always seem to deal with altitude well but my body was calling out for something. The sickness finally subsided but the need to drink more increased so more and more ice was on the boil.

  We woke up early at C2 to another glorious and potentially hot day. Life in camp is slow and steady and it can take up to 2 hours to ‘get your shit together’ in the morning. Boiling more water, packing kit and making sure you’ve got enough snacks around you to last another 4-5hrs. Arthur left a while before me with Rolfe and I was being shadowed by Phurba today. He’s an ace climber, super nice chap and happy to let me get on with things. I’d tell him ‘up the next steep slope and we’ll break’ and he seemed quite happy with this strategy. I wasn’t in to breaking records or seeing how fast I could go, I just wanted to get there and get there well and in one piece. It was a very sociable day today, lots of folk to talk to and lots of encouragement along the way. I walked for a while with some chaps from another group who were fully kitted out in their down onesies.....bad move they decided (on the advice of their guide). One more short but vertical ice climb up to a long snow slope to camp is all that stood in my way to another afternoons rest. Another quick rest, some jelly babies and another slug or two of water and I carried on up, through lower C3 and to our little ledge of tents. Arthur had arrived shortly before me and Phurba had overtaken me on the final leg. Great to be in camp, exhausted, fed up of being microwaved but happy to be there! More water/food/sleep beckoned for the afternoon/evening and a chilly night ahead. At sometime during the night we woke up to the sound of an avalanche, a fair distance away but a scary sound none the less when you are camped on a snow slope. Thoughts of last year’s disaster ran through our minds then everything went quiet and we fell back to sleep.

  Another early morning, more water to boil, more high energy custard to consume, bags packed and off we went. This was the final push up to C4 and a really tough one at that. I started out with cold feet, same as every morning but this time they were not getting any warmer and I was worried. Frostbite is serious and turns people around if they are sensible. Fortunately before I had to make that decision my feet started to get some life into them and I was a happy chick again. The route up to C4 is tough but fairly simple. Up a long snow slope or two, around a serac, up a couple of steep ice climbs then a long gradual but gruelling trudge up to C4. The people who cut and imprinted the steps obviously had longer legs than mine, something that Rolfe and I both commented on at the same time. Each step was an effort and seeing the Himex team steam by on lovely O2 didn’t help my morale. We passed our Slovac friends who looked pretty beaten up. They’d been hauling all of their own loads and had spent a long time up high. Rolfe had a chat with them about the weather forecast and they then followed in our footsteps for a while. Conscious of being at the front, I stopped and let them pass, not wanting the pressure of having to keep going when all I wanted to do was stop. This bit of the climb really hurt, physically and mentally and I was struggling. Rolfe was singing behind me, trying to encourage me but all I wanted to do was shut him up! I needed to drink more, eat more and keep going but everything was a battle. Finally about 10 minutes before camp, just before we came over the last rise, Sidi, one of our amazing climbing sherpas came and took my back pack.  ‘Strong Didi’ he said which was great to hear and being relieved of the weight of my pack was a huge relief but by that point my body was in freefall and it took all my strength to get to our tent, home for the 3 of us for a long afternoon and a short night. It’s amazing how the body can recover and as soon as I lay down in the tent I felt raring to go again! Arthur, Rolfe and I shared the little space, like the 3 Wise Monkeys, and basically slept or read until we were due to wake up again at 1am. It was cramped but warm and even with the inside of the tent covered in ice crystals when we woke up, we all slept amazingly well, despite of the lack of O2 at 7400m.

  And this was really it....the big day ahead....what we’d trained for, slogged our guts out for, hoped and dreamed for....getting to the summit of the worlds 8th highest mountain at 8163m.....!!

  When we woke there was some confusion about what time we were to head off. 2am had been bantered around but finally, after the Himexsherpas had left to fix the final set of ropes to the summit, we were off. We donned our now very light back packs with just an oxygen bottle and a litre of water, pulled on our Top Out masks and sucked in the 2ltrs a minute of O2 that would aid our ascent to the top. Still at this stage a successful summit is not a given. You have to earn it, work for it, slog it out and hope that everything goes your way. Fortunately for us it did. We left at speed and quickly Phurba had let me walk on as he and Rolfe were helping Arthur sort his clothing. I walked on my own for a long while, up the steep slope, along the short plateau, up another very steep slope, waiting on the ropes for the higher ones to be fixed. Excitement and anticipation ran through my veins along with an amazing feeling of life now that the Os were flying around my weary body. My feet, cold to start with, had warmed up and I was feeling good, great! I waited at one point for the boys to catch up and we plodded on together with Sidi and Pemba, in a great little 360 team. At the lower col, we changed oxygen bottles and went from 2ltrs to 3ltrs a minute. The difference wasn’t felt that much but it all helps none the less. Within half an hour we had joined the summit queue and were waiting for our chance to stand on top. This took another 1½ hrs before we made our final bottom clenching steps up to the tiny snow platform about 3 meters from the actual summit. It was scary, exhilarating and mind numbing all at the same time. Phurba was already waiting for us, camera in hand, to celebrate our achievements. Rolfe went up first, as was right, then Arthur and finally me. Passing Arthur he said ‘careful Jo, the snow is unstable at the top’. Yikes I thought, it’s a steep ridge, I’m scared and I want to go down! It took all of my mental strength to climb up to the end of the rope and then tag the summit on all fours! No standing on top for me, I was happy to be there, horizontally or vertically but I wanted to get down in one piece too!

  It’s not all over once you get to the top. I’m always saying to clients, save something for the way down, and boy we had a long way to come down. Retracing our steps back to C4 through the now very sludgy snow, we collected our kit and then abseiling and walked down to C3, still on O2 which made abseiling quite interesting! Stopping to wait for the boys at C3, I had time to collect my thoughts, drink some much needed water, chat with afew fellow climbers before we started our descent to C2. A fairly easy schlep usually but as one of the snow bridges had collapsed under a guide who was not clipped onto the safety rope and fell 15feet, lucky for him the snow bridge came to a halt otherwise he would have been in big trouble. A short climb down, cross the unstable snow bridge then a quick climb up is all that it took....easy peasy said Rolfe...right oh! Back at C2 fatigue was really starting to set in and with more kit on our backs, we knew the most difficult part was to come. The route from C2 to C1 is fairly technical, the most dangerous section, and takes alot of concentration. Thankfully the temperature was dropping rapidly, making conditions a little more stable but we still needed to hot foot it through the icefall as speedily as possible. Just as we thought we were in safety we came across a rather wide crevasse. It had been do-able on the way up but was looking rather scary now. The chap in front of me flung himself across, landing on his front and scaring himself somewhat so I decided to wait for Rolfe to catch up for abit of assistance. He leapt across, realised that some of the edge was fairly unstable and then gave me very specific instructions on how to jump. Still clipped onto the safety rope but fairly anxious I jumped and grabbed Rolfe’s hand and landed safely, as did Arthur. That was it, or so I thought...again!

  At C1, the light was fading and so was our energy. We had been on the go for 15hours by this point with less calories in our bodies than a toddler can last a day on and we were feeling the pinch. Just another 2 hours to Base Camp, ‘you got that in you?’ is what Rolfe asked. All I wanted to do was to curl up in our tents but I knew it was the right decision to keep descending. Lightening our loads a little by leaving some kit in the tents to be picked up the next day by Sidi and Pemba (these boys worked their socks off for us) we trudged down the long snow slope to the fixed lines, clipped in and walked in silence through what seemed like some very unfamiliar territory. Walking in the dark with only head lamps for guidance, the glacier had seemed to have changed considerably since our ascent only a few days before. I followed Phurba and Rolfe stuck with Arthur a short distance behind. Finally we made it to Crampon Point, pulled off our climbing gear and high altitude boots for the last time, put on our very light walking boots and started the final ½ hour along moraine to BC. Met a short distance away by LB with a fabulous can of Pepsi (I never touch the stuff at home but here it is amber nectar!), he insisted in taking my pack and who was I to resist! We finally reached ‘home’ Base Camp and the lovely smiles and warm welcome of Bhola and team at 9pm.

  The rest, they say, is history. So much still happened on the way down. Slovacs being rescued from the higher reaches of the mountain, huge amount of snowfall that stopped alot of teams reaching C4 let alone the summit, 7 days walk out in 4 days, feet that have only just recovered, hard days, tears, smiles and laughter, alot of shit head, new friends, great times with old friends, and the wonderful memories that no-one can take away from me. A huge thanks to all who were involved in the climb, on the mountain and in the office, a true team effort!

  I never thought I would climb Kilimanjaro, let alone an 8000m peak and life has changed so much in the past few years. Writing this, I still can’t believe that it’s all over and I am wondering what is next....who knows!


expid: ANN114101
peakid: ANN1
year: 2014
route1: N Face (French rte)
nation: China
leaders: Zhang Liang
sponsor: Dreamers Destinations Treks International Annapurna Exp 2014
countries: Norway
bcdate: 2014-03-31
smtdate: 2014-04-24
termdate: 2014-04-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to bad weather and fatigue
agency: Dreamers Destination Treks
campsites:
  BC(31/03,4200m),C1(07/04,4800m),C2A(16/04,5200m),C2B(20/04),C2C(20/04,5700m),C3(22-23/04,6500m),xxx(24/04,7400m)

routememo:
  This team of two Chinese and one Norwegian member, assisted by six climbing Sherpas, were unable to climb higher than 7400m because of deep snow and the steepness of the French route from C2 (5200m) and C3 (6500m). In fact, they found it necessary to make two intermediate camps in this section.

  They had arrived at BC at 4200m on 21 March and established C1 on 7 April at 4800m. Their first C2 was made at 5200m on 16 April, but as they encountered difficulties with the route and its deep snow cover above this camp, they pitched their C2B on the 20th and set C2C on the following day at 5700m. At last they set up their C3 at 6500m on the 22nd and 23rd.

  From C3 the three members and six Sherpas set out for the top at 9:00 pm on the 23rd. At 2:00 pm on the 24th they had managed to get to 7400m. Then the weather changed: it became cloudy, snow started to fall, and a "big" wind blew up. By now they were very tired; they decided to retreat to C3 and reached there between 5:00 and 6:00 pm. Their climb was over.

  They left C3 at 10:00 am on the 25th. On the 26th they were back in BC at 3:00 am and five hours later the helicopter they had booked took them away from the mountain.

  The members had used oxygen from C3 to their high point at 7400m and back to C3. The Sherpas except for Mingma Gyalje also used it C3-high point-C3. Mingma Gyalje used none.

  Sherpa:
    Mingma Gyalje, 14/4/86, Beding, Everest X3, Manaslu X2, Kangchenjunga X1, 
      (manager of team's trekking agency, Dreamer's Destination)


expid: ANN114102
peakid: ANN1
year: 2014
route1: N Face
nation: Romania
leaders: Zsolt Torok
sponsor: The Adrem Invest Romanian Annapurna Expedition 2014
approach: Pokhara by road, then helicopter to BC
bcdate: 2014-04-07
smtdate: 2014-04-28
termdate: 2014-04-21
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to frostbite of Tzecu
campsites: BC(07/04,4200m),C1(10/04,5000m),C2(16/04,5400m),C3(28/04,6400m),xxx(28/04,6400m)
accidents: Porahcia injured by falling serac; evacuated to Kathmandu
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  On 20 April Torok was fixing ropes from C2 to C3 and Porahcia was following him. At around 6000m the ropes finished and waited for Porahcia. But he did not turn up for quite some time. Then Torok went down he found Porahcia was sitting around 5800m injured by falling serac hit. Torok managed to bring him up to 6000m; as it was getting late so they bivyed at that point and informed for helicopter lifting of injured Porahcia. Next day 21 April Porahcia was rescued from 6000m; together they went down to BC. Porahcia flu to Kathmandu. 

  On 28 April Tzecu and Torok climbed up to C3. They planned to go down and to return for summit push, but while descending on 29 April Tzecu suffered from frostbite. They went down to BC.

  Tzecu and Neacsu took helicopter to Kathmandu on 3 May. Torok trekked back to Kathmandu.


expid: ARNK14101
peakid: ARNK
year: 2014
route1: S Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Diego Wellig
sponsor: Swiss Arniko Chuli Expedition
approach: Tika (near Rara Lake)->Charka Bot->Pho->Mugu (via many 5000m passes)
bcdate: 2014-05-16
smtdate: 2014-05-18
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2014-05-22
campsites: BC(16/05,5200m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  On 18 May the team started at 6:30 am, climbed the South Ridge which consists of steep loose rock, reached the summit at 1 pm, stayed there 30 minutes, then reached the BC at 5:30 pm the same day.

  Sherpas:
    Shere Sherpa, 19/11/82, Tapting-9, Solu
    Chhiti Thinduk Bhote, 25/8/81, Hatiya-3, Sankhuwasabha


expid: BHRI14101
peakid: BHRI
year: 2014
route1: NW Glacier on W Ridge
nation: Portugal
leaders: Pedro Guedes Vieira
sponsor: Porto Bhrikuti Expedition
countries: Brazil
approach: See route notes
bcdate: 2014-05-03
smtdate: 2014-05-11
termdate: 2014-05-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6217m due to eye blindness of Pedro Guedes
othersmts: Summited Futi Himal and Lena Peak on 16 May by all members
campsites: BC(03/05,4600m),ABC(06/05,5000m),C1(09/05,5400m),C2(15/05,6000m),xxx(11/05,6217m)
accidents: Eye blindness for Pedro Guedes
achievment: 1st Portuguese and Brazilian ascents of Futi Himal
agency: Unique Adventure International
routememo:
  Approach: Bus to Jomsom->Jeep to Chuksang, then Gyeling->tractor to Tangye, walked to Makhar, then Khumjungar BC (by a 5000m pass; Khumjungar BC wrongly located on Nepali maps, as it lies on the left side of the river and not on the right side – in river sense).

  The team had more success than previous year, having learned the lessons for the approach and acclimatization march, and having 6 more days left in their schedule for climbing.

  The team first tried on Bhrikuti West Ridge, doing the first attempt on 10 May, reaching 6000m from C1 and stopped by bad weather. The team went back to sleep at C1 for a new attempt the next day. On 11 May at 11:30 am, the team reached a col (marked 6217m on Nepali maps) in very warm conditions. Pedro Guedes contracted eye blindness there, so they decided to come back down to BC with Guedes feeling better from C1 already.

  After 2 days rest, the team decided to climb Futi Himal (via NW Glacier to SE Ridge of Futi Himal via Lena Peak (6325m)) as the route was less long than the one for Bhrikuti. On 14 May slept at C1 again, then slept at C2 the day after. On 16 May, the team started from C2 at 4:30 am, reached the summit of Lena Peak at 11:15, then Futi Himal at 11:45 am, then came back to C2 at 1:30 pm, cleaned it, then left C1 at 4 pm after cleaning everything and eventually reached BC at 7 pm. The day after the team left BC for Tangye; the day after used a tractor back to Shusangye, then by jeep to reach Jomsom.

  Oxygen: took a 4 liters emergency bottle at C1 in case of medical emergency, 
          but not used


expid: CHOY14101
peakid: CHOY
year: 2014
route1: NW side
nation: Argentina
leaders: Angel Ezequiel Armesto
sponsor: SummitClimb Cho Oyu Expedition 2014
countries: Australia, Czech Republic, France, Russia, Sweden, UK
bcdate: 2014-04-28
smtdate: 2014-05-24
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2014-05-26
campsites: BC(28/04,4900m),ABC(01/05,5600m),C1(07/05,6400m),C2(12/05,7200m),Smt(24/05)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  The expedition's only summit bid was launched from C2 at 7200m at 0:30 hours (half an hour past midnight, Nepal time) on 24 May by five members and four Sherpas. One member, Smith, climbed up to 7400m at 2:30 am, but then ran out of steam and was back down in C1 at about noon. The rest of the summit party carried on to the top: Bergvall got there at 7:00 am with Dawa Jangbu Sherpa; Nichiporov with Dawa Jangbu Lama and Ang Kami reached the top at 8:30 am; and Tiercelin and Pemba summited at 10:30 am. The summiters returned to C2 between 11:00 am and 3:00 pm that day.

  On their summit day the climbers encountered very strong wind (45-60 km/hr) after 11:00 am and it was very cold. However none of the climbers got frostbite.

  The summiting members and Sherpas used oxygen from C2 to the top and back to C2 (if their oxygen hadn't run out before returning to C2).

  Non-summiting members:

  Guittet reached C2 on 12 May with others to occupy the camp, but he had become very tired and descended to ABC the next day.

  Hudson went no higher than C2 on the 22nd, then turned back because of bad cough, went down to C1 to rest and continued on the ABC that day.

  As per his plan, Hutt went as high as C2 on 23 May and then descended by parapante to BC.

  Virt climbed to C1 on 12 May and on up to 6000m, then had no more strength left to continue and returned to C1. He had not been sleeping well because of the altitude.

  Sherpas:
    Ang Kami Sherpa, 3/10/86, Patle, Okhaldhunga, no 8000ers
    Dawa Jangbu Lama, 16/5/87, Beni, Solu, no 8000ers
    Dawa Jangbu Sherpa, 4/6/79, Patle-4, Okhaldhunga, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X3, 
      Lhotse X1
    Pemba Sherpa, 28/1/82, Lamabagar-1, Dolakha,  Everest X1, Manaslu X0


expid: CHOY14102
peakid: CHOY
year: 2014
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Willie Benegas
sponsor: Benegas Brothers Cho Oyu Expedition 2014
approach: Kodari->Nyalam->Tingri->Chinese BC
bcdate: 2014-04-15
smtdate: 2014-05-17
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2014-05-19
othersmts: Summited Makalu on 25 May (MAKA-141-01)
campsites: BC(15/04,4900m),ABC(19/04,5600m),C1(27/04,6400m),C2(16/05,7100m),Smt(17/05)
agency: High Altitude Dreams (Asian Trekking pmt)
routememo:
  On acclimatization, all members did night stays at C1, 3 to 5 times each.

  On summit push:
  15 May to C1
  16 May to C2
  17 May to summit: left C2 at 4 am, summited at 11 am, back to ABC at 9 pm same day
  19 May down to Chinese BC, then to Zangmu

  Summit by all 7 members except Cody Smith (lack of acclimatization, abandoned at serac barrier above C1, "almost C1.5"), and all Sherpas except Karchen Dawa Sherpa (stopped at C2 because of gastroenteritis).

  Matthew Moniz and Willie Benegas are going for Makalu, leaving Kathmandu on 22 May, aiming for summit on 26-27 May, then back to KTM on 28-29 May. (Note: Nima Kanchha Sherpa and Pemba Tshiring Sherpa summited with the pair on Makalu on 25 May).

  Fixed rope: 3500m (from BC to C1, then from serac above C1 almost to summit, 
    through Yellow Band)

  Nepalese hired:
    Nima Kanchha Sherpa (Sirdar), 20/4/77, Thame-10
    Kami Chhiring Sherpa, 7/3/87 (2043/11/23), Khunde
    Karchen Dawa Sherpa, 11/19/65, Khumjung
    Ang Phurba Sherpa, 1/12/90, Phurte
    Pemba Tshering Sherpa, 18/4/79, Khumjung
    Phurita Sherpa, 15/4/82, Thame, Namche


expid: CHOY14105
peakid: CHOY
year: 2014
route1: NW side
nation: Australia
leaders: Andrea Rigotti
sponsor: Andrea on Cho Oyu
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2014-04-21
smtdate: 2014-05-17
termdate: 2014-05-19
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to coldness in hands and feet
campsites: BC(21/04,4800m),ABC(23/04,5700m),C1(28/04,6460m),C2(15/05,7160m),C3(16/05,7680m),xxx(17/05,7800m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Rigotti and Dawa started their summit bid from C3 at 00:45 hours (NST) on 17 May. When they reached at 7800m around 03:15 hours, Rigotti realized that his left hand and right foot started losing sensitivity. Then he decided to turn around and went down to C3 where they arrived at 04:00 hours. They started at 08:00 hours to go down and arrived at ABC around 18:00 hours.

  Sherpa:
    Dawa Chhiring Sherpa, 25/10/1988, from Kangchenjunga area


expid: CHOY14107
peakid: CHOY
year: 2014
route1: NW side
nation: Mexico
leaders: German Rodriguez
sponsor: Mexican Cho Oyu Spring 2014
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2014-04-21
smtdate: 2014-05-18
termdate: 2014-05-19
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to high wind
campsites: BC(21/04,4800m),ABC(24/04,5700m),C1(27/04,6400m),C2(17/05,7100m),C3(18/05,7600m),xxx(18/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Rodriguez and Damai Chhiri went to C3 planning to go to summit on 20 May. Due to strong wind, they gave up further attempt.


expid: CHOY14108
peakid: CHOY
year: 2014
route1: NW side
nation: Iran
leaders: Abdul Azim Barhmani
sponsor: Iranian on Cho Oyu 2014
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2014-04-22
smtdate: 2014-05-15
termdate: 2014-05-19
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to high wind
campsites: BC(22/04,4900m),ABC(25/04,5700m),C1(02/05,6400m),C2(07/05,7100m),xxx(15/05,7500m)
agency: Prestige Adventure (Asian Trekking permit?)
routememo:
  On their summit push the two-man Iranian team went to C3. Wind was blowing strongly, so then they went down to C2 and on 17 May to ABC.


expid: DHA114104
peakid: DHA1
year: 2014
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Peru
leaders: Victor Hugu Rimac Trejo
sponsor: Peru Dhaulagiri 2014
approach: See route notes
bcdate: 2014-05-04
smtdate: 2014-05-18
smttime: 1330
termdate: 2014-05-21
campsites: BC(04/05,4400m),C1(08/05,5700m),C2(09/05,6400m),C3(17/05,7400m),Smt(18/05)
achievment: 1st Peruvian ascent of Dhaulagiri
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Approach: Bus to Pokhara, Jeep to Tatopani, helicopter to Italian BC (2-day wait for heli in bad weather).

  Before coming to Dhaulagiri, Victor initially planned to climb on Shishapangma, then Everest by the south side (he should have left for Shisha on 27 March). But the Tibetan Mountaineering Association didn't afford him a permit for Shishapangma, so he went first to acclimatize in Langtang Valley, then went back to Kathmandu and started this time for Everest Base Camp. There after the cancellation of the season, Luo Jing proposed him to join with him on Dhaulagiri. Jing went directly by flight from Everest Base Camp to Kathmandu, whereas he with Alex Gavan joined in Lukla in 2 days, then flew back to Kathmandu.

  Victor left Kathmandu on the 1 May for Pokhara, then went to Tatopani by jeep, waited there for 2 days for better weather, then flew by helicopter to Italian BC via Modi Khola, then did go back from Italian BC to BC to help carry the loads. From 4 to 8 May, Victor had to wait at BC for Dawa and 2 British Army Nepalese climbers to acclimatize. However from 8 May he decided to begin his acclimatization alone, as he aimed to climb without oxygen. Then slept at C1 and C2 alone, then on the 10 May he worked together with 2 Sherpas (Lakpa Sherpa and [Chhitjee] Nurbu Sherpa) up to 7100m where they made a deposit (oxygen for the Sherpas, own tents for Victor) and went back to C2 for sleeping with Alex Gavan. On 11 May all went back to BC.

  On 15 May went from BC to new C2 (6000m) a bit higher: as the weather window was fixed on 17 or 18, they had to do so. Day after they reached new C2 at 7000m. Day after slept in C3 (7400m). On 17 May night, strong wind forced part of the team (2 Chinese of Luo Jing plus Chhang Dawa Sherpa, Nurbu Sherpa and Lakpa Sherpa) to sleep lower in real C3 (7300m). During the same night, Chhang Dawa's group left earlier and awoke them at midnight, as the wind had decreased. Victor reached the summit 1 hour after the Chinese at 1:30 pm and slept with them at his C3 which he reached at 4 pm. The day after, Victor left at 5 am, took off all equipment at C2 and reached BC at 4 pm.

  On 21 May, left BC by helicopter flight for Tatopani, then to Pokhara. Here stayed for the night and reached Kathmandu the next day.

  Victor insisted on the fact that he didn't climb Dhaulagiri solo! He relied on his own above BC to carry his own food, tents, personal gear, equipment, etc., but he couldn't have climbed the route alone at all without the tracks made previously by the American, Chilean, Korean teams, then by the Sherpas of Seven Summit Treks. He could be helped as well in case of a problem by the Seven Summit Treks team.


expid: DHA114105
peakid: DHA1
year: 2014
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Romania
leaders: Alex Gavan
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Dhaulagiri Expedition 2014
approach: See route notes
bcdate: 2014-05-04
smtdate: 2014-05-09
termdate: 2014-05-12
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to general fatigue due to mountain conditions (snow)
othersmts: Summited Lobuche East on 19 April
campsites: BC(04/05,4750m),C1(08/05,5700m),C2(09/05,6300m),xxx(09,11/05,6300m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Gavan initially planned to climb Everest from South. The avalanche on Everest occured whilst he was acclimatizing on Lobuche East (18 April). Gavan remarked that most of the teams apparently stopped usually much before the true summit of Lobuche East). Then he was transfered to Dhaulagiri I. (They arrived on Lobuche East BC on 17 April and summited Lobuche East on the 19 April and left BC on the 25 April when the news of the season cancellation on Everest south side occured).

  On Dhaulagiri I, Alex Gavan spent 1 night at C1, then 3 nights at C2, from C2 he planned to reach and install C3, then to go down to BC. During the way between camps however he didn't feel in a good shape. Morever his weather forecast sources announcing zero snow conditions were completely wrong, the mountain being heavily covered with snow.

  During his second night at C2, Alex Gavan begun to analyze his chances for the summit and decided to abandon the day after. The day after, he was heli-rescued shortly above C1 as the helicopter could not reach him at C2.


expid: DHA114106
peakid: DHA1
year: 2014
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Fiorenzo Dado
sponsor: Intereg Dhaulagiri I Expedition 2014
countries: Italy
approach: Beni->Darban->BC
bcdate: 2014-04-16
smtdate: 2014-05-06
termdate: 2014-05-10
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to deep snow conditions
campsites: BC(16/04,4700m),C1(22/04,5800m),C2(28/04,6600m),C3(06/05,7300m),xxx(06-07/05,7300m)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  The duo climbed most of time with Parvaneh Kazemi. At C3 both Sherpas, one from the duo, one from Parvaneh, tried to continue above, but stopped quickly (respectively 100m and 20m above C3) because of the deep snow.

  Oxygen: Took one oxygen emergency bottle, but not used.

  Fixed rope: 500m (mostly between C2 and C3)

  Sherpa:
    Lakpa Dorje Sherpa (from village below Lukla, now lives in KTM)


expid: DHA114107
peakid: DHA1
year: 2014
route1: NE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Luo Jing
sponsor: Chinese Dhaulagiri I Expedition
approach: By helicopter from Pokhara to BC
bcdate: 2014-05-06
smtdate: 2014-05-18
smttime: 1215
termdate: 2014-05-21
campsites: BC(06/05,4550m),C1(10/05,5700m),C2(11/05,6400m),C3(17/05,7300m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  On 18 May they started at 00:30 am, reached summit at 12:15 pm, stayed 30 minutes
            on top in little windy conditions, then came back to C3 at 4 pm.
  On 19 May they reached BC at 1 pm.
  On 21 May flew by helicopter from BC to Pokhara.
  On 22 May flight from Pokhara to Kathmandu.

  Fixed rope: 200m to 300m (according to Chhang Dawa Sherpa)

  Sherpas:
    Chhang Dawa Sherpa, 30/7/82, Nurbu Chaur, Upper Walung, Makalu-Barun
    [Chhiji] Nurbu Sherpa
    Lakpa Sherpa


expid: EVER14119
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: SummitClimb Everest Expedition 2014
countries: Belgium, Canada, India, UK
bcdate: 2014-04-18
smtdate: 2014-04-18
termdate: 2014-05-07
termnote: Abandoned at 5350m due to Sherpa strike
campsites: BC(18/04,5350m),xxx
accidents: 1 Lhotse member lost all strength
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  The Everest and Lhotse teams arrived at BC on 18 April, the day the fatal avalanche struck Sherpas in the Khumbu Icefall. No higher camps were estabished, no Sherpas carried loads for camps above the Icefall.

  The time between 18 April and the final decision to cancel the climbs was filled by the members by brief treks in the area and trips a short distance above BC, but below the start of the Icefall. Mazur said he and various members moved up to an altitude of 5410m. He said he went there "every day," but he finally modified this claim by saying that a total of ten members from the two teams went to this turn-around point.

  Not a single Sherpa from the pool of 18 Sherpas for the two teams moved past BC. They were told that their arms and legs would be broken and their villages homes would be burned down if they went to work. Who told them this? "The Bhotes" (one of the identified enforcers was Pasang Bhote from Makalu).

  At a meeting held at BC on 21 April about what next for the teams, "the Bhotes" spoke forcefuly, and Sumit Joshi, the manager of a trekking agency called Himalayan Ascent, spoke at length in favor of stopping all climbs. Russell Brice spoke against it, but his view did not prevail.

  Mazur waited a few days to see what would happen, and when no climbing resumed, he decided on 27 April to cancel is Everest and Lhotse climbs.

  A few of his members had already left BC, and on the 28th they left in great numbers. Mazur himself left on 7 May.

  One member had left earlier: Zaitchick, a 70-year old Lhotse member, had seemed very strong, but on the 18th of May he became weak, visited the health clinic at BC, was advised to leave and flew out to Kathmandu in a helicopter on the 20th.  While in the clinic, he used two bottles of the teams oxygen supply.


expid: EVER14120
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Ralf Dujmovits
sponsor: Everest 2014
bcdate: 2014-04-23
smtdate: 2014-05-24
termdate: 2014-05-28
termnote: Abandoned at 8300m due to strong cold wind
campsites: BC(23/04,5100m),ABC(30/04,6400m),C1(06/05,7000m),C2(17/05,7700m),C3(24/05,8300m),xxx(24/05,8300m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Dujmovits scaled Everest in October 1992 via the South Col, but he had used bottled oxygen then, and now he wanted to scale it without it. Now he was on the North Col route with no Sherpa helpers as well as no supplemental oxygen.

  He arrived at Chinese BC on 23 April, his ABC on the 30th and C1 on the North Col on 6 May. On the 8th, he descended to ABC in one hour.

  He returned to the North Col on the 16th and climbed up to 7700m on the 17th. But now strong winds (60 km/hr) buffetted him, and on the 18th he returned to ABC.

  He ventured up once more on the 22nd to C1 and on the 23rd to C2. But when he got up to C3 at 8300m on the 24th, he had problems. It had not snowed for 14 days, so there was no snow lying on the face. All the good spots for his tent were already occupied by large commercial teams. He had a very difficult time trying to dig out a platform for his tent and managed to make only a very uncomfortable small area for himself. Furthermore his tent was not a strong, substantial one; it was vulnerable to the wind. He couldn't even heat water inside it. He spent a miserable night.

  The wind was still strong the next morning, the 25th. Without supplemental oxygen in strong wind, the body does not keep warm. He gave up. He brought his high camps down to C1 that day, on the 26th he was back in ABC and on the 27th in BC.

  On the 28th there was one meter of fresh snow, so vehicles could not reach BC. Dujmovits walked to a tented village, from where he was able to ride to Kathmandu, he arrived in the city on the 29th. 

  He fixed no ropes on the mountain himself. He used ropes already installed from ABC to C1 only.


expid: EVER14122
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Malta
leaders: Gregory Attard
sponsor: Malta Everest 2014
approach: 01+- *9
bcdate: 2014-04-15
smtdate: 2014-05-25
termdate: 2014-05-29
campsites: BC(15/04,5300m),ABC(20/04,6400m),C1(27/04,7000m),C2(23/05,7800m),C3(24/05,8300m),Smt(25/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  15/04  5300m
  ABC 20/04  6400m
  C1  27/04  7000m
  C2  23/05  7800m	
  C3  24/05  8300m	
  Smt 25/05  by Attard, Barbaro Sant, Xerri, Temba, Dawa, Pemba at 12 noon;
             by Fenech Adami, Pasang at 1 pm.

  Summit team left C3 at 10:45 pm on 24 May. It was very windy until about 5:30 am. Straightforward climb. All members and Sherpas summited within one hour of each other and stayed an average of about 15 minutes on the summit.

  On the way down, there were a lot of people and the descent was very slow. They reached C3 at 8:30 pm; however, Fenech Adami, Temba and Pasang continued to C2, where they arrived at about 10 pm.

  Attard, Barbaro Sant, Xerri, Dawa and Pemba were running out of oxygen and shared one bottle during the night. On 26 May, they descended to C2, which took them 5 hours. They rested there for 30 minutes, but were then caught in a blizzard. When they reached the lower C2 at 7600m at 3 pm, they crawled into someone else's tent and spent the night there. The following morning (27 May) they left at about noon and waded through deep snow until they reached ABC at 8 pm.

  On the way down, they saw that their C1 was completely destroyed and that they had lost all their equipment.

  On 28 May everyone was at Chinese Base Camp.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C1 to summit to 8300m by Attard, Barbaro Sant and Xerri
    From C1 to summit to C1 by Fenech Adami
    From C2 to summit to C3 by Dawa and Pemba
    From C2 to summit to C2 by Temba and Pasang


  The Maltese climbed with the Seven Summit Treks commercial group that Olivier Ruembelli (Swiss), Axel Cezar (Brazilian), Satoshi Tamura (Japanese) and Richard Malblanc (French).


expid: EVER14130
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Andrew Lock
sponsor: 8000 Summit Expedition 2014
approach: Renjo La->Gokyo
bcdate: 2014-04-18
smtdate: 2014-04-18
termdate: 2014-04-28
termnote: Abandoned at 5350m due to Sherpa strike
campsites: BC(18/04,5350m),xxx
agency: Himalaya Expeditions/Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Lock arrived at BC the day the avalanche happened. He stayed for two days at BC and then went back down to Pangboche, where he had a puja in the monastery there. He returned to BC on 23 April to see what was happening, but when it became clear that the Sherpas were on strike, he left BC on 28 April.


expid: EVER14131
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Melanie Southworth
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Everest Expedition 2014 (Mooch Miggins Ever 2014)
approach: Renjo La->Gokyo
bcdate: 2014-04-15
termdate: 2014-04-28
termnote: Abandoned at 5350m due to Sherpa strike
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
campsites: BC(15/04,5350m),xxx
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Southworth was with Seven Summit Treks and when they decided to follow the striking Sherpas and finish their expedition, she was forced to leave.


expid: EVER14142
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Umesh Zirpe
sponsor: Giripremi Everest 2014
bcdate: 2014-04-11
smtdate: 2014-04-15
termdate: 2014-04-25
termnote: Abandoned at 5600m due to Sherpa strike
campsites: BC(11/04,5350m),xxx(15/04,5600m)
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  Zirpe was forced to abandon his expedition due to the Sherpa strike that followed the avalanche in the Khumbu Icefall on 18 April. The Sherpas, who were still at C2 on 20 April were asked to come down and this was the last time anyone entered the Khumbu Icefall.

  Zirpe's gear was helicoptered down from C2. On 21 April the tourism minister and told those who wanted to continue to do so; however, there were some aggressive Sherpas who said that they would kill if anyone carried on. For this reason, Zirpe took a helicopter to Lukla on 24 April and flew to Makalu ABC to support his team there. He arrived at Makalu ABC on 27 April.


expid: EVER14128
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Juergen Greher
sponsor: Amical Alpin Everest Expedition 2014
bcdate: 2014-05-14
smtdate: 2014-05-25
termdate: 2014-05-28
termnote: Abandoned at 8500m due to too much wind
othersmts: Attempted Xixabangma (reached 7400m on 7 May, too cold and windy)
campsites: BC(14/05,5300m),ABC(18/05,6400m),C1(22/52,7000m),C2(23/05,7600m),C3(24/05,8300m),xxx(25/05,8500m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  14/05  5300m
  ABC 18/05  6400m
  C1  22/05  7000m
  C2  23/05  7600m
  C3  24/05  8300m
  HPt 25/05  8500m by Soell, Pemba Jangbu at 4 am.

  High-point team left C3 at 1:30 am. Weather was clear, but windy. After about 2-1/2 hours of climbing the gales became so strong that Pemba and Soell got a bit worried. They decided to turn back at 4 am and descended to C3, where they arrived at 5 am. Soell rested for two hours and descended to ABC, where she arrived at 1:30 pm. Pemba Jangbu stayed at C3 a bit longer.

  Greher reached 7900m on 24 May on the ascent to C3. After about 3 hours. Greher felt very short of breath and weak, so he decided to turn back. He descended to ABC, where he arrived at 5 pm. As he still felt weak and short of breath, he took some Nifedipine to get some sleep.

  On 27 May Greher and Soell descended to Chinese BC.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Jangbu, 16/2/1986, Bupsa, Jubing, Solu


expid: EVER14129
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Kari Kobler
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Everest Expedition 2014
countries: Austria, France, Germany, Norway, Poland
approach: Kodari->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2014-04-15
smtdate: 2014-05-25
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2014-05-28
campsites: BC(15/04,5300m),ABC(21/04,6400m),C1(25/04,7000m),C2(23/05,7800m),C3(24/05,8300m),Smt(25/05)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  BC  15/04  5300m
  ABC 21/04  6400m
  C1  25/04  7000m
  C2  23/05  7800m	
  C3  24/05  8300m
  Smt 25/05  by Buechi, Damilano, Neuschmid, Gerlt, Lavaud, Mueller, Viso,
             Wroblewski, Dendi, Kusang Tenzing, Ngima Thenduk, Ngima Chhiring,
             Tenji, Mingmar, Chhewang, Lal Bahadur, Lil Bahadur, Jangbu and
             Rinji Phurwa at 6:30 am.

  Summit team left C3 at 10 pm on 24 May. Weather was clear, but windy. They stayed on the summit for one hour and descended to ABC, where they arrived between 5 pm and 7 pm. They descended to CBC on 26 May.

  On 26 May, seven of Kobler's Sherpas on their way down from the North Col and were caught in a snow slab. However, nothing happened and nobody got injured.

  Kobler reached 7500m on 25 April during acclimatisation rotation. His job was to stay at ABC to manage the expedition.

  Grotli reached 8500m on 25 May. He did not feel well enough to continue and descended to ABC. 

  Fuchs reached 5700m on 21 April. He got pneumonia and descended to CBC, and left the expedition on 25 April.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C1 to summit to C1 by members
    Taken and used from C2 to summit to C2 by Sherpas


expid: EVER14132
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Arnold Coster
sponsor: Arnold Coster Expeditions Everest 2014
countries: Germany, Mauritius, Sweden
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2014-04-19
smtdate: 2014-04-19
termdate: 2014-04-25
termnote: Abandoned at 5350m due to Sherpa strike
campsites: BC(19/04,5350m),xxx
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  The team arrived late at EBC as they were climbing Lobuche East to acclimatize. They summited on 18 April. None of their members or Sherpas had been through the Icefall as they had not done their puja at that stage.

  After the accident, Coster had offered to contribute some Sherpas to change the route in the Icefall and his members were prepared to carry loads; however, when he realized that the Icefall doctors were not maintaining the route and his Sherpas, who would have been willing to carry on, were threatened, he decided to abandon the climb.


expid: EVER14133
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Yachiyo Suzuki
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Everest Expedition 2014
countries: China, Pakistan, Romania
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2014-04-18
smtdate: 2014-04-18
termdate: 2014-04-27
termnote: Abandoned at 5350m due to Sherpa strike
campsites: BC(18/04,5350m),xxx
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Suzuki never went through the Icefall and as she was part of the Seven Summit Treks group, she had to follow Tashi Sherpa's (Mingma's brother) instructions. After the ministers had come to BC on 24 April and discussed the issue, Tashi announced that everyone would have to go home.

  Suzuki left BC on 27 April and walked to Lukla and flew back to Kathmandu on 30 April.

  Alex Gavan, Zhu Gang and Luo Jing transferred to Dhaulagiri.


expid: EVER14156
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Eiko Funahashi
sponsor: Japanese Everest South Expedition 2014
bcdate: 2014-04-23
smtdate: 2014-04-23
termdate: 2014-04-28
termnote: Abandoned at 5350m due to Sherpa strike
campsites: BC(23/04,5350m),xxx
agency: Nombu Trekking
routememo:
  Funahashi did not go beyond BC; however, her three Sherpas carried a few loads to C2.

  She did not consider continuing her climb, but made the decision to come in 2015.


expid: EVER14118
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Damian Benegas
sponsor: Benegas Brothers Everest Expedition 2014
countries: Canada, Germany, Guatemala, USA
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2014-04-11
smtdate: 2014-04-17
termdate: 2014-04-25
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to fatal avalanche
campsites: BC(11/04,5350m),xxx(17/04,5800m)
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  The day before the deadly avalanche, the team (apart from Mix) went on an acclimatization hike through the icefall. They reached the football field and then went back to BC. Mix did not join the rest of the team as he had flown to Kathmandu for a few days. He needed good internet connection to send his PhD thesis to his university.

  When the avalanche hit, Benegas and three of his Sherpas were involved in the rescue efforts while Baumann, who is a physician, helped treating the injured people in the HRA clinic. The team did not consider carrying on as on 19 April Benegas realized that 200m of icefall were subject to great danger when he was searching for missing bodies.


expid: EVER14103
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Melissa Arnot
sponsor: Arnot Everest Expedition 2014
countries: Nepal
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2014-04-13
smtdate: 2014-04-18
termdate: 2014-04-24
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to fatal avalanche
campsites: BC(13/04,5350m),xxx(18/04,5800m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Arnot was climbing with Pasang Lhamu Sherpa and the pair had initially planned to do Everest from both sides. After the avalanche happened, they aborted the climb on the 24th as it became clear to them that the politics of the situation weren't going to allow them to climb in a manner that would be rewarding or respectful to the local voices.

  Melissa Arnot by email:

  "I hate that the day occurred where we lost so many people, but I also don't think the icefall was more dangerous that day, the previous or the next day. It is dangerous we know this and I accept it. It seemed selfish to continue on, but it also seemed strange to stop all together."

  Arnold was involved in the rescue. On 18 April flew in the helicopter up the football field, where a patient was loaded on a sked in the helicopter. She went from there to the mid-accident site where she provided care for a second person who was evacuated shortly after. She stayed at the site for four hours, until everyone was clear. On 19 April she went up with 11 others to search for the missing people and dug out one who was found dead. She spent 4 total hours up there that day. 

  Pasang Lhamu and Arnot left BC by helicopter on 24 April. In Kathmandu they tried to obtain a permit for the north side of Everest, but were unsuccessful.

  Sherpani:
    Ms. Pasang Lhamu, 10/6/84, Gumela, Chaurikharka, Khumbu


expid: EVER14126
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Tim Mosedale
sponsor: Tim Mosedale's Everest Expedition 2014
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2014-04-19
smtdate: 2014-04-19
termdate: 2014-04-26
termnote: Abandoned at 5350m due to Sherpa strike
campsites: BC(19/04,5350m),xxx
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Mosedale's Sherpas had taken some loads to C2 prior to the fatal avalanche, which killed 16 Sherpas on 18 April.

  Mosedale by email on 6 June 2014

  We decided to trek out on 25 April and then departed on 26 April. All in all it was becoming an untenable situation and we felt that on the back of some other big teams withdrawing (for various reasons) that we couldn't justify staying. Partly it was becoming a difficult situation to put a positive spin on, but also we would have lost all our allies and we weren't keen on being forced in to teaming up with the remaining teams.

  We were contemplating to continue. We decided to lie low for a while and had total embargo on any social media in case it got misinterpreted (unlike Joby who two days after the incident updated that he was looking forward to getting back on the hill (since removed) and he was made very unwelcome indeed - a tad tactless one might say). So our Sherpas all returned having had a few days at home and they wanted to go back to work. Unfortunately it became evident that the Sherpas were all getting a bit twitchy about the intimidation, so we considered going into the Icefall ourselves (my team along with Rob Casserley's, Tim Calder's and Henry's privated clients), but then we were advised by our Sirdar that this may cause a problem. We weren't sure whether it was us getting threatened (in which case "bring it on") or that our Sherpas would suffer in some way as a result of our actions. So we decided not to proceed and shortly after that it was time to go home.


expid: EVER14149
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: David Goettler
sponsor: Everest Germany Spring 2014
approach: Cho La->Gokyo->Island Peak
termnote: Abandoned at 5350m due to Sherpa strike
othersmts: Summited Island Peak on 24 April
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  After having trekked in the Khumbu and acclimatized on Island Peak, Goettler was informed about the Sherpas strike after the avalanche. He decided to go back to Kathmandu and cancel the expedition.


expid: EVER14145
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Iran
leaders: Alireza Behpour
sponsor: Everest South Iran Spring 2014
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2014-04-18
smtdate: 2014-04-18
termdate: 2014-04-30
termnote: Abandoned at 5350m due to Sherpa strike
campsites: BC(18/04,5350m),xxx
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Behpour arrived at BC the day the deadly avalanche that killed 16 Sherpas happened. Neither he nor his Sherpa went beyond BC. After meeting with the tourism minister at BC, he realized that the climbing was probably over this season. However, he waited for another week to see how things developed, but when his hope vanished, he left BC on 30 April.


expid: EVER14147
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Chase Lochmiller
sponsor: Adventure Ascents Everest 2014
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2014-04-16
smtdate: 2014-04-23
termdate: 2014-04-26
termnote: Abandoned at 5350m due to Sherpa strike
campsites: BC(16/04,5350m),xxx
agency: Adventure Ascents
routememo:
  The team made the decision to cancel after the resolution was made between government and the Sherpas. The main reason they made the decision was because everyone else was doing it, and the general consensus from the Icefall doctors and the guides and people at Seven Summit Treks was that it was too dangerous this year in the Icefall and no alternate route was available. Lochmiller wrote that even though it was announced that the mountain was open for climbing, it really wasn't because there was no one to support the route up to C2. He and Lhakpa Gelu wanted to continue, but after evaluating the safety of everything, they decided it was in their best interests to turn back.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa, 23 June 1967, lives in Lynnwood, Washington, alpine guide


expid: EVER14148
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Adrian Ballinger
sponsor: Alpenglow Everest Expedition 2014
countries: France, USA
approach: By helicopter
bcdate: 2014-04-24
smtdate: 2014-04-24
termdate: 2014-04-25
termnote: Abandoned at 5350m due to Sherpa strike
campsites: BC(24/04,5350m),xxx
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  As Ballinger and his clients acclimatised back home in hypoxic tents, the clients had not even arrived in Nepal when the avalanche happened on 18 April. Three days after Ballinger had arrived in Nepal, he took a helicopter to see what was happening at BC; however, when it became clear that the season was over, he flew back to Kathmandu the following day and advised his clients to cancel their flights, which they did.


expid: KANG14101
peakid: KANG
year: 2014
route1: SW Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Nives Meroi
sponsor: Nives & Romano Kangchenjunga 2014
bcdate: 2014-04-22
smtdate: 2014-05-17
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2014-05-21
campsites: BC(22/04,5500m),C1(25/04,6200m),C2(30/04,7300m),C3(16/05,7600m),Smt(17/05)
accidents: Benet's frostbitten toes
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking (Seven Summit Treks pmt)
routememo:
  The team, two members with no Sherpas, arrived on 22 April at their BC site at 5520m, which was close to other teams' bases. But they decided for themselves where to place their higher camps, and made their C1 three days later at 6200m, away from others.

  Most others made their summit bids on 18 May because they waited for the ropes to be fixed all the way to the top. But this pair did not wait and were the only team to make their final push on the 17th. They were different also because they had no camp above C3, they did this in order to save climbing time.

  The two left C3 for the summit on 17 May at 0:30 hours (half an hour after midnight of the 16th/17th). They were on the top at 12:00 hours on the 17th and descended to C3, which they reached at 17:00 hours.

  On the 18th they packed up all their gear, plus their garbage and trudged down to BC at 18:00 hours.

  "For an 8000er this climb was not easy," Benet said. Technical difficulties arose in the area of C2.

  Ropes were already fixed up to an altitude of 7000m, so they used these ropes -- and Sherpas made them pay $300 for the privilege.


expid: KANG14103
peakid: KANG
year: 2014
route1: SW Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Mi-Gon
sponsor: Dream and Challenge Kangchenjunga Expedition 2014
approach: Kebang->Yamphudin->Tortong->Cheram->Ramche->Middle Camp
bcdate: 2014-04-11
smtdate: 2014-05-18
smttime: 0815
termdate: 2014-05-20
campsites: BC(11/04,5506m),C1(22/04,6200m),C2(28/04,7000m),C3(17/05,7400m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal
routememo:
  Kim together with Sanu and Pema started their summit bid from C3 at 6:30 am on 18 May. They reached to the top at 8:15 am and stayed on summit for 30 minutes. They were back to C3 at 12:30 pm, then continued to BC where they arrived at 8:30 pm. The team was followed to the summit by the Spanish team of Carlos Soria and other climbers. The summit day weather was clear, but a little windy.

  Cho went up to 7700m approximately to search the body of Park Nam-Soo who was missing since last year. Choi went up to 7200m assisting Cho for the same purpose. But they could not find the body of Park.


expid: KANG14104
peakid: KANG
year: 2014
route1: SW Face
nation: India
leaders: Dipankar Ghosh
sponsor: West Bengal Kangchenjunga Expedition 2014
approach: Birtamod->Kebang->Yamphudin->Tortong->Cheram->Ramche->Middle camp
bcdate: 2014-04-11
smtdate: 2014-05-18
smttime: 1005
termdate: 2014-05-21
campsites: BC(11/04,5500m),C1(22/04,6100m),C2(23/04,6200m),C3(15/05,6985m),C4(17/05,7400m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal
routememo:
  Ghosh and Pasang left C4 at 6:45 pm on 17 May for the summit. They reached the summit at 10:05 am of 18 May. They stayed on summit for an hour and 10 minutes. Ghosh performed his puja on the summit, had photos and video while waiting for other three Indian climbers, Tusi Das, Rajiv Bhattacharya and Chhanda Gayen, to come up. By 11 am all three were on the top. Ghosh and Pasang returned to C4 at 7:30 pm. Next day 19 May they went down to BC.

  Ghosh went back to Kolkata the same way as he came to BC. He entered Nepal/Birtamod on 1 April.

  Ghosh said that Gayen while descending from Yalung Kang summit she fell down, not less than 1000m, along with two Sherpas who were short-roped with her. Tashi survived who was not roped.

  Ghosh was sent from Kolkata by the government authority to Kathmandu to launch search operation and to recover bodies of missing Indian climber and the Sherpas. But the day I met him the search team was not sure of going to the mountain for the job due to weather conditions, particularly snow fall.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang, 27/4/78 (2035/1/14), Lelep-8, Taplejung, Everest X1, Kangch X3,
      Cho Oyu X1


expid: MAKA14102
peakid: MAKA
year: 2014
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Denis Savelyev
sponsor: Wild Mountain Boars
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 2014-05-01
smtdate: 2014-05-07
termdate: 2014-05-17
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to bad weather conditions
othersmts: Summited Mera Peak
campsites: BC(01/05),C2(06/05,6500m),xxx(07/05,7100m)
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
routememo:
  After climbing Mera Peak, the group came to Makalu BC by charter. All camps were already fixed by Sherpas in advance. The team went straight to C2 on 6 May. The weather became worse and only 2 members and 4 Sherpas reached high point at 7100m below C3.

  On 17 May group came back to Kathmandu by charter flight.


expid: MAKA14104
peakid: MAKA
year: 2014
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Chris Warner
sponsor: 2014 American Makalu Expedition
approach: Num->Hillary BC
bcdate: 2014-04-21
smtdate: 2014-05-25
smttime: 0512
termdate: 2014-05-28
accidents: Green fell on way down to C4 and broke hand
agency: Himalayan Guides
campsites:
  BC(21/04,4800m),ABC(23/04,5700m),C1(28/04,6400m),C2(01/05,6630m),C3(23/05,7400m),C4(24/05,7590m),Smt(25/05)

routememo:
  BC  21/04  4800m
  ABC 23/04  5700m
  C1  28/04  6400m
  C2  01/05  6630m
  C3  23/05  7400m
  C4  24/05  7590m
  Smt 25/05 by Luskey, Mingma Dukpa at 5:12 am.

  Luskey, Warner, Green, Siddhi and Ang Phurba left C4 at 9 pm on 24 May. Warner reached about 7800m at 10:20 pm. He had trouble breathing and he and Ang Phurba turned back to C4, where they arrived at 10:45 pm. They had a short rest and carried on all the way to ABC, where they arrived at 5:45 am. Once at ABC, Warner went to see Dr Joe of Himex; however, he was fine and Dr Joe could not find any symptoms of HAPE.

  Green reached about 8100m, when he realised that his right foot was getting cold. As he was worried about frostbite he turned back at about 12:45 am. On his way to C4 his arm-wrapped down the fixed rope just about where the seracs end. He took a fall and as his arm was still wrapped around the rope he broke his hand in two places. He reached C4 at 2 am. On 25 May he left C4 at 6 am and reached ABC at 2:30 pm. He saw Dr. Joe from Himex, who confirmed that the hand was broken.

  Luskey was the only member of the group to carry on together with Mingma Dukpa. Straightforward climb. They reached the summit at 5:12 am together with the Himex group. They stayed on the summit for about 10 minutes and descended to C4, where they arrived at 8:45 am. They rested for a while and continued to C2, where they arrived at 3:30 pm.

  Jenkins reached 7000m on 2 May during the first acclimatisation rotation. During the summit attempt, he reached about 6800m and abandoned the climb due to an upset stomach.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C2 to summit/high point by Luskey and Green
    Taken and used from C4 to high point to C2 by Warner
    Taken and used from C4 to summit or high point by Sherpas 

  Sherpas:
    Mingma Dukpa, 29/6/80, Yaphu-9, Makalu-Barun 
    Siddhi Tamang, 7/6/1981, Dolakha 
    Ang Phurba, 25/11/1985,Yaphu-9, Makalu-Barun


expid: MAKA14105
peakid: MAKA
year: 2014
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Al Hancock
sponsor: Al Hancock Makalu 2014
countries: Norway
approach: Num->Hillary BC
bcdate: 2014-04-13
smtdate: 2014-05-18
smttime: 0839
termdate: 2014-05-22
accidents: Broken rib from coughing by Richard
achievment: 1st Canadians on top of Manaslu
agency: Seven Summit Treks
campsites:
  BC(13/04,4800m),ABC(15/04,5700m),C1(23/04,6400m),C2(25/04,6600m),C3(15/05,7400m),C4(17/05,7550m),Smt(18/05)

routememo:
  BC  13/04  4800m
  ABC 15/04  5700m
  C1  23/04  6400m
  C2  25/04  6600m
  C3  15/05  7400m
  C4  17/05  7550m
  Smt 18/05  by Hancock, Richard, Lahit, Ang Dawa, Lhakpa Ongyal, Pasang Tenji
             at 8:39 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 9 pm on 17 May. Weather was cold, but calm. Just below the French Couloirs they collected some coils of rope, which had been carried up by the Seven Summit Sherpas, but had not been fixed. Ang Dawa fixed the section between the false summit and the summit. Otherwise, straightforward climb. They reached the summit at 8:39 am. They stayed for about 45 minutes on the summit to take photos. They descended to C4, where they stayed the night. 

  On 19 May they descended to C2 and on 20 May to ABC.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from 6800m to summit to 6800m by Richard and Lahit
    Taken and used from 7200m to summit to 7800m by Hancock
    Taken and used from C3 to summit to C3 by Sherpas

  Sherpas: 
    Ang Dawa, Makalu-Barun, 07/12/1959
    Pasang Tenji Sherpa, Seduwa, Makalu, 23/03/1986, 1st 8000er
    Lhakpa Ongyal, Nurbugaon, Makalu, 19/08/1966


expid: MAKA14106
peakid: MAKA
year: 2014
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Will Cross
sponsor: Cross on Makalu
approach: Tumlingtar->Num->Hillary BC
bcdate: 2014-04-10
smtdate: 2014-04-22
termdate: 2014-04-25
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to not acclimatizing and diabetes
campsites: BC(10/04,5100m),ABC(12/04,5630m),C1(22/04,6400m),xxx(22/04,6400m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  10/04  5100m
  ABC 12/04  5630m
  C1  22/04  6400m
  HPt 22/04  6400m by Cross

  Cross took about 6 hours from ABC to C1, which was very slow. He did not feel acclimatized and had to use oxygen on his descent from C1 to ABC. He decided to abandon the expedition due to his diabetes.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used on descent from C1 to ABC by Cross


expid: MAKA14107
peakid: MAKA
year: 2014
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Philippe Gatta
sponsor: French Makalu and Lhotse
approach: Tumlingtar->Num->Hillary BC
bcdate: 2014-04-11
smtdate: 2014-05-18
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2014-05-21
agency: Himalaya Expeditions (Seven Summit Treks pmt)
campsites:
  BC(11/04,5100m),ABC(14/04,5630m),C1(24/04,6400m),C2(25/04,6600m),C3(16/05,7400m),C4(17/05,7550m),Smt(18/05)

routememo:
  BC  11/04  5100m
  ABC 14/04  5630m
  C1  24/04  6400m
  C2  25/04  6600m
  C3  16/05  7400m
  C4  17/05  7550m
  Smt 18/05  by Gatta, Pasang Gombu at 6 am.

  Gatta and Pasang Gombu left C4 at 9:10 pm on 17 May. Weather was good. When they got to the French Couloir, they found the 6 mm rope that was fixed by Dorjee Sherpa from Peak Promotion. The rope finished at the top of the French Couloir.

  They carried on across the wide ridge onto the false summit and then onto the summit without fixed rope. They summited at 6 am. They spent about half an hour on top and then descended to C3, where they arrived at 9:30 am. They met Al Hancock and Monique Richard back on the wide ridge.

  They descended to ABC on 19 May.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to summit to C3 by Gatta and Pasang Gombu.

  Sherpas:
    Pasang Gombu, Lokhim, Solu, 28/12/1969 [rechk biodata]

  Team intended to try Lhotse after Makalu, but cancelled due to Everest avalanche.


expid: MAKA14108
peakid: MAKA
year: 2014
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Chris Burke
sponsor: Two on Makalu
countries: USA
approach: Num->Hillary BC
bcdate: 2014-04-22
smtdate: 2014-05-25
termdate: 2014-05-28
campsites: BC(02/04,4900m),ABC(24/04,5700m),C1(25/04,6400m),C2(27/04,6640m),C3(06/05,7400m),Smt(25/05)
agency: Himalayan Ascent (Seven Summit Treks pmt)
routememo:
  BC  22/04  4900m
  ABC 24/04  5700m
  C1  25/04  6400m
  C2  27/04  6640m
  C3  06/05  7400m
  Smt 25/05  by Cook, Nima Sherpa, Ngima Gyaljen at 5:10 am; 
             by Burke, Lhakpa at 5:45 am.

  Summit team started from C3 at 7 pm on 24 May. They had decided to leave out C3 due the proximity between the two camps. Straightforward climb. Cook and Nima summited first and stayed there for about 45 minutes. Burke and Lhakpa stayed for about 15 minutes.

  On the way down, Cook took off his oxygen mask at about 8200m as his goggles kept on fogging up. Nima Sherpa and Cook descended to C3, where they arrived 11 pm and stayed the night. Lhakpa and Burke descended al the way to C2, where they arrived at 5 pm.

  On 26 May everyone was back at ABC.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to summit to C3 by Burke, Lhakpa and Nima
    Taken and used from C3 to summit to 8200m by Cook

  Sherpas
    Nima Sherpas, 14/2/77, Nurbugaon, Makalu
    Lhakpa Sherpa, 25/7/68, Tamku-9, Sankhuwasabha
    Gyaljen Sherpa, 12/5/84, Chheskam-2, Solu


expid: MAKA14109
peakid: MAKA
year: 2014
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Dong Hong-Juan
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Makalu Expedition 2014
approach: Tumlingtar->Num->Hillary BC
bcdate: 2014-04-06
smtdate: 2014-04-23
termdate: 2014-05-17
termnote: Abandoned at 6670m due to high wind and no time to wait any longer
campsites: BC(06/04,4800m),ABC(08/04,5700m),C1(21/04,6400m),C2(23/04,6670m),xxx(23/04,15/05,6670m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  06/04  4800m
  ABC 08/04  5700m
  C1  21/04  6400m	
  C2  23/04  6670m
  HPt 23/04+15/05  6670m

  Dong reached C2 during an acclimatization rotation and during her summit attempt on 15 May. As the weather was too windy on 16 May to climb to the Makalu La, she descended to ABC on 16 May and decided to abandon the expedition as she had already waited enough and needed to get back to China.

  She left ABC on 17 May by helicopter.

  Oxygen: Taken, not used


expid: MAKA14110
peakid: MAKA
year: 2014
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Israel
leaders: Danny Gordin
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Makalu Expedition 2014
approach: Tumlingtar->Num->Hillary BC
bcdate: 2014-04-24
smtdate: 2014-05-25
smttime: 0300
termdate: 2014-05-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to cold feet
campsites: BC(24/04,4800m),ABC(26/04,5700m),C2(28/04,6640m),C3(23/05,7400m),C4(24/05,7590m),xxx(25/05,7700m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks (Himalayan Guides pmt)
routememo:
  BC  24/04  4800m
  ABC 26/04  5700m
  C1   --	
  C2  28/04  6640m
  C3  23/05  7400m
  C4  24/05  7590m
  HPt 25/05  7700m at 3 am by Gordin.

  Gordon left C4 for his summit attempt together with Richard Hidalgo (also Seven Summit Treks) at 1:20 am; however, when he reached 7700m his feet were too cold and he decided to turn around.

  He descended to ABC, where he arrived at 6 pm.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


expid: MAKA14111
peakid: MAKA
year: 2014
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Markus Seelos
sponsor: Oberdiessen on Makalu 2014
approach: Tumlingtar->Num->Hillary BC
bcdate: 2014-04-25
smtdate: 2014-05-03
termdate: 2014-05-09
termnote: Abandoned at 6630m due to altitude sickness and not enough experience
campsites: BC(25/04,4800m),ABC(28/04,5700m),C1(01/05,6400m),C2(02/05,6630m),xxx(03/05,7100m)
agency: Alpine Exodus Expeditions (Seven Summit Treks Pmt)
routememo:
  BC  25/04  4800m
  ABC 28/04  5700m
  C1  01/05  6400m
  C2  02/05  6630m
  HPt 03/05  7100m (below 2nd rockband)

  For his second acclimatization rotation, Seelos left ABC on 5 May, stayed one night at C1 and then continued to C2 on 6 May. On 7 May he was on his way to the Makalu La, however, at about 6800m he started feeling dizzy, light-headed and nauseous. He decided to go back down to ABC that day and abandoned the expedition.

  Another reason for abandoning the climb was the fact that Seelos had only climbed Mera Peak before and was not prepared for such a big mountain.

  Oxygen: Taken, not used


expid: MAKA14112
peakid: MAKA
year: 2014
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Debasish Biswas
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Makalu Expedition 2014
approach: Siliguri border->Dharan->Num
bcdate: 2014-04-20
smtdate: 2014-05-25
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2014-05-27
agency: Seven Summit Treks
campsites:
  BC(20/04,4800m),ABC(22/04,5700m),C1(24/04,6400m),C2(25/05,6600m),C3(15/05,7400m),C4(16/05,7590m),Smt(25/05)

routememo:
  BC  20/04  4800m
  ABC 22/04  5700m
  C1  24/04  6400m
  C2  25/05  6600m
  C3  15/05  7400m
  C4  16/05  7590m
  Smt 25/05  by Biswas, Pemba Chhuti at 6 am [and Phurba Dorchi?]

  First summit attempt was on 17 May. Biswas reached about 8350m, but he had to abandon his summit attempt due to the lack of fixed rope in the French Couloirs and on the summit ridge. He descended to C4 and stayed the night there and descended to ABC on 18 May.

  On the second summit attempt, Biswas, Pemba Chhuti and Phurba [Dorchi] started from C3 at 6:30 pm on 24 May. No problem during the climb. The ropes were fixed and the weather was good. They stayed for about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to C3, where they arrived at noon.

  On 26 May they descended to ABC where they arrived at 1 pm.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C2 to summit to C2 by Biswas
    Taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 by Pemba Chhuti

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Chhuti, 15/7/1953, Yaphu-9, Makalu Barun


expid: MAKA14113
peakid: MAKA
year: 2014
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Greece
leaders: Alexandros Aravidis
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Makalu Expedition 2014
bcdate: 2014-04-07
smtdate: 2014-05-19
smttime: 0645
termdate: 2014-05-21
campsites: BC(07/04,4800m),ABC(09/04,5700m),C1(6400m),C2(20/04,6600m),C3(30/04,7500m),Smt(19/05)
achievment: 1st Greek on the top of Makalu
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  07/04  4800m
  ABC 09/04  5700m
  C1   ---   6400m
  C2  20/04  6600m
  C3  30/04  7500m
  Smt 19/05  by Aravidis, Sangay Phuri Sherpa at 6:45 am.

  Summit team reached the Makalu La (C3) from C2 at around 1 pm on 18 May. They rested for a while and started their summit bid from c3 at 6:30 pm. It was clear and not windy. Straightforward climb. They stayed about 20 minutes on the summit. Good views of Kangchenjunga, Everest and Lhotse.

  On the way down, Sangay and Aravidis collected their material from the other camps and descended all the way to ABC, where they arrived at 5:30 pm.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C3 to summit to C3 by Aravidis and Sangay Phuri 

  Sherpas: 
    Sangay Phuri, Makalu-9, 24/11/1970


expid: MAKA14114
peakid: MAKA
year: 2014
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Arjun Vajpai
sponsor: 1st Indian Civilian Expedition 2014
approach: Tumlingtar->Num->Hillary BC
bcdate: 2014-04-11
smtdate: 2014-05-17
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2014-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 8400m due to lack of fixed rope
agency: Seven Summit Treks
campsites:
  BC(11/04,4900m),ABC(13/04,5700m),C1(21/04,6400m),C2(22/04,6630m),C3(15/05,7400m),C4(16/05,7780m),xxx(17/05,8400m)

routememo:
  BC  11/04  4900m
  ABC 13/04  5700m
  C1  21/04  6400m
  C2  22/04  6630m
  C3  15/05  7400m
  C4  16/05  7780m
  HPt 17/05  8400m (top of French Couloirs) by Vajpai, Pasang, Pemba at 9 am.

  Vajpai started his summit attempt on 13 May. He reached C1 on 13 May, C2 on 14 May, C3 on 15 May and C4 on 16 May. He was together with Mane and Mali from India from Peak Promotion and Biswas from Seven Summit Treks. Seven rope-fixing Sherpas from Seven Summit Treks were with them and they were supposed to fix the rope ahead of them.

  Vajpai had been reassured that there were 360m of rope at the bottom of the French Couloirs and that it would be enough to reach the summit. However, when they reached their high point at about 8400m at 9 am, the Sherpas had run out of fixed rope and the climbers were told to turn back. It was difficult for Vajpai as he was feeling fine and had enough oxygen to reach the summit. "Now I know what if feels like to turn back so near the summit" he said.

  He turned back and descended to C3, where he arrived at about 2 pm. He stayed the night and descended to ABC on 18 May where he arrived at 11 am.

  Patil reached C2 on 22 April. She had troubles with her knee and left ABC by helicopter on 26 April.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C2 to high point to ABC by Vajpai
    From C4 to high point to C4 by Sherpas


expid: MAKA14115
peakid: MAKA
year: 2014
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Anand Mali
sponsor: Giripremi Makalu 2014
approach: Tumlingtar->Num->Hillary BC
bcdate: 2014-04-14
smtdate: 2014-05-25
smttime: 0350
termdate: 2014-05-28
agency: Peak Promotion (Himalayan Guides pmt)
campsites:
  BC(14/04,4800m),ABC(16/04,5700m),C1(22/04,6400m),C2(29/04,6650m),C3(15/05,7400m),C4(16/05,7600m),Smt(25/05)

routememo:
  BC  14/04  4800m
  ABC 16/04  5700m
  C1  22/04  6400m
  C2  29/04  6650m
  C3  15/05  7400m
  C4  16/05  7600m
  Smt 25/05  by Mane, Pemba Rinji, Dorchi Sherpa at 3:50 am.

  After having had one failed summit attempt Mane, Pemba Rinji and Dorchi started a second summit attempt on 22 May from ABC. Mali did not join him due to logistical and health reasons. They had to have oxygen flown in from Kathmandu, which would not have been enough for both climbers. On top of that Mali was not feeling well.

  Summit team started from C3 at 6:40 pm on 24 May. They were the first to reach the summit and it was still dark. They stayed on top for about 25 minutes to wait for sunrise and descended all the way to ABC, where they arrived at 2:30 pm.

  First summit attempt:

  Mane, Mali, Dorchi, Dendi, Pemba Rinji started fixing the rope from about 50m after the glacier. They reached the bottom of the French couloir at about 4 am. They stopped to wait for the sun as the Sherpas wanted to fix the route in the French Couloir. Dorjee fixed the rope in the French Couloir for about 300m to the top of the Couloir at about 8400m. They used their personal rope, which was only 6mm. When they ran out of rope, they decided to turn back as it would have been too dangerous to continue without fixed rope.

  They descended to C4 where they arrived at 1:30 pm. On 18 May they descended to ABC. They left at 8 am and arrived at ABC at 4:30 pm.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C2 to high point/summit to ABC by members
    From C3 to high point/summit to C2 by Sherpas

  Sherpas: 
    Lakpa Dendi, Gudel-9, Solu, 1974
    Dorchi Sherpa, Makalu-9, 01/12/1979
    Pemba Rinji, Okhaldhunga, Bishinga, 10/01/1976


expid: MAKA14116
peakid: MAKA
year: 2014
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Yannick Gagneret
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Makalu Expedition 2014
approach: Tumlingtar->Num->Hillary BC
bcdate: 2014-04-20
smtdate: 2014-05-01
termnote: Abandoned at 7350m due to Gagneret death
agency: Seven Summit Treks
campsites:
  BC(20/04,4900m),ABC(22/04,5700m),C1(25/04,6400m),C2(28/04,6630m),C2B(30/04,7200m),C3(01/05,7350m),xxx(01/05,7350m)

routememo:
  BC  20/04  4900m
  ABC 22/04  5700m
  C1  25/04  6400m
  C2  28/04  6630m
  C2B 30/04  7200m (below first rockband)
  C3  01/05  7350m
  HPt 01/05  7350m by Gagneret.

  On 30 April Gagneret and Ralph Schweizer from Ang Rita treks were moving from C2 up to C3. They were moving relatively slowly and they reached the top of the first rock band at about 5 pm, where they met Billi Bierling and Stuart Smith from Himex, who told them that it would be another three hours to C3. They decided to pitch their tent at about 7300m in the start of the second rock band as it was already dark and both climbers were exhausted. On 1 May they left their emergency bivouac at about 10 am and continued all the way to the Makalu La, where they arrived at about 3 pm; the weather was horrific with strong wind and heavy snow. Gagneret put up his own small tent and slept together with Eva Zarzuelo and Enrique Lloch from the Spanish Seven Summits expedition. Schweizer shared a Seven Summits tent with Javier Camacho. Gagneret seemed fine when Schweizer left him for the night.

  On 2 May, Schweizer had arranged to go to ABC with Gagneret at about 10 am; they both had to cache their high-altitude tents and supplies first. At 9:30 am, Schweizer approached Gagneret's tent and saw Ferran Latorre, who looked very worried. He said he thought Gagneret was seriously sick and need assistance. Schweizer looked into his tent and saw that Gagneret was just sitting there, staring. "This person was not Yannick anymore," Schweizer said. 2x1 mg of Dex were orally administered. Schweizer and Latorre started to dress Gagneret and lowered him down towards C2. At first Gagneret was responsive, but during the course of the descent, during which they and 5 Sherpas, lowered him down 75 pitches on his back and buttocks, he was in and out of consciousness. "We are lowering this corpse-like body and I am afraid we are losing him," Schweizer said on the radio to Dr. Joe the base camp doctor for Himalayan Experience. It took about 6 hours to get Gagneret through the two rock bands to get above C2. Gagneret was barely responsive.

  Chris Warner and his three climbing mates were at C2, and in the meantime, three Seven Summit Sherpas had brought up oxyegn and dexamethasone. They met the rescuing party at 4 pm, about 20 minutes above C2 and gave him oxygen and constructed a sleigh from a tent and sleeping mats. Chris Warner's team and some Sherpas dragged Gagneret down, however, he had fully lost consciousness by then and was more than likely dead. Schweizer was sure he had just passed away and attempted CPR for a while before reaching C2. The rescue team, lead by Chris Warner and assisted by Lhakpa from Himalayan Ascent was in constant contact with Dr. Joe who really wanted the patient at ABC as he wanted to confirm Gagneret was dead with his ultrasound machine that his heart had stopped beating. The team of Sherpas and western climbers dragged the body of Gagneret down to crampon point. "It was very tough as Gagneret weighs about 85 kgs and we were all exhausted," Schweizer said. Chris Warner coordinated the recovery operation from C2 to crampon point, including all communications with ABC. When they arrived at Crampon Point at about 7 pm, Warner notified Dr. Joe that carrying Gagneret's body down to ABC over big rock boulders was too dangerous, and the body should be left at Crampon Point. After Schweizer had carried out some "alive tests," which Dr. Joe instructed him to do. Gagneret was pronounced dead (most probably of HACE) at 7:28 pm. They wrapped up the corpse and left him at crampon point to be picked up by helicopter two days later. All the rescuers arrived at ABC at about 9 pm.

  Oxygen: Not taken, used from C2 to Crampon Point 


expid: MAKA14117
peakid: MAKA
year: 2014
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Naoko Watanabe
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Makalu Expedition 2014 (A Japanese on Makalu)
approach: Num->Hillary BC
bcdate: 2014-04-11
smtdate: 2014-05-19
smttime: 0645
termdate: 2014-05-21
campsites: BC(11/04,4800m),ABC(13/04,5700m),C1(19/04,6400m),C2(20/04,6600m),C3(18/05,7500m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  11/04  4800m
  ABC 13/04  5700m
  C1  19/04  6400m
  C2  20/04  6600m
  C3  18/05  7500m
  Smt 19/05  by Watanabe, Tawa Chhiri at 6:45 am.

  Summit team reached Makalu La from C2 at around 1 pm on 18 May. They rested for a while and started summit bid from C3 at 6:15 pm. It was clear and not windy. Straightforward climb. They stayed for about 20 minutes on the summit. Good views of Kangchenjunga, Everest and Lhotse.

  They descended to C3 where they arrived at 1:15 pm and stayed the night. They descended to ABC on 20 May.

  Naoko was climbing with Swee Chiow-Khoo from Singapore and Alexander Aravidis from Greece.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to summit to C4 by Naoko
    From C4 to summit to C4 by Tawa Chhiri

  Sherpa:
    Tawa Chhiri, 26/1/79, Charwo, Sotang, Solu


expid: MAKA14118
peakid: MAKA
year: 2014
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Chung Ei-Chul
sponsor: Chung Ei-Chul Makalu Expedition 2014
approach: Tumlingtar->Num->Hillary BC
bcdate: 2014-04-17
smtdate: 2014-04-30
termdate: 2014-05-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to high winds
campsites: BC(17/04,4900m),ABC(20/04,5700m),C2(26/04,6600m),C3(30/04,7400m),xxx(30/04,7400m)
agency: Windhorse Trekking (Himalayan Guides pmt)
routememo:
  BC  17/04  4900m
  ABC 20/04  5700m
  C1   --	
  C2  26/04  6600m
  C3  30/04  7400m
  HPt 30/04  7400m by Ei-Chul, Nima Gyalgen.

  Ei-Chul reached the Makalu La (C3) during his acclimatization rotation. He went back up to C2 on 15 May for his summit attempt; however, as it was too windy to climb up to C3 on 16 May, he descended back to ABC on 16 May.

  As for him the season was over. There was no time to wait for another weather window.

  Oxygen: Taken, not used


expid: MAKA14119
peakid: MAKA
year: 2014
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Singapore
leaders: Swee Chiow Khoo
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Makalu Expedition 2014 (Singapore Makalu 2014)
approach: Tumlingtar->Num->Hillary BC
bcdate: 2014-04-11
smtdate: 2014-05-19
smttime: 0645
termdate: 2014-05-21
campsites: BC(11/04,4800m),ABC(13/04,5700m),C1(19/04,6400m),C2(20/04,6600m),C3(18/05,7500m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  11/04  4800m
  ABC 13/04  5700m
  C1  19/04  6400m
  C2  20/04  6600m
  C3  18/05  7500m
  Smt 19/05  by Khoo, Mingma Gyabu, Pechumbe at 6:45 am.

  Summit team reached Makalu La (C3) from C2 at around 1 pm on 18 May. They rested for a while and started summit bid from C3 at 6:15 pm. It was clear and not windy.

  Straightforward climb. They stayed about 20 minutes on the summit. Good views of Kangchenjunga, Everest and Lhotse. They descended to C3 where they arrived at 1:15 pm and stayed the night. They descended to ABC on 20 May.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C2 to summit to C2 by Khoo
    From C3 to summit to C3 by Sherpas

  Sherpas:
    Pechhumbe (Chumbe) Sherpa, 22/9/1987, Tashigaon, Makalu 
    Mingma Gyabu, 16/5/89, Lelep-7, Taplejung


expid: MAKA14120
peakid: MAKA
year: 2014
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Serbia
leaders: Dragan Celikovic
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Makalu Expedition 2014 (Dragan Expedition 2014)
approach: Tumlingtar->Num->Hillary BC
bcdate: 2014-04-09
smtdate: 2014-05-18
termdate: 2014-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 8410m due to nervousness about climbing the summit ridge
campsites: BC(09/04,5100m),ABC(12/04,5630m),C2(25/04,6600m),C3(02/05,7400m),C4(17/05,7550m),xxx(18/05,8410m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  09/04  5100m
  ABC 12/04  5630m
  C1   --	
  C2  25/04  6600m
  C3  02/05  7400m
  C4  17/05  7550m
  HPt 18/05  8410m just below false summit by Celikovic, Nima Dorjee, Phurba
             at 7:30 am.

  High-point team left C4 at 8:30 pm on 17 May. Weather was Ok. When they got to the French Couloir, they only found the 6mm rope that was put in by Dorjee Sherpa from Peak Promotion. Nima Dorjee put Celikovic on a short rope halfway up the French Couloir all the way towards the summit as the fixed rope finished at the top of the French Couloir and Celikovic was a bit nervous.

  They reached their high point at 7:30 am. Celikovic felt too nervous to continue on the ridge without proper fixed rope, and he was happy to stop there. This was his personal summit. He spent about half an hour at his high point to take pictures and then descended to C4 where he arrived at 1:30 pm. He stayed there for the night with his two Sherpas as they were tired. They descended to ABC on 19 May.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C3 to high point to C3 by Celikovic
    Taken and used from C4 to high point to C4 by Nima Dorje and Phurba

  Sherpas:
    Nima Dorjee (Boka Lama), Walung, Makalu, 1967
    Phurba Sherpa, Seduwa, Makalu, 1989, 1st 8000er


expid: MAKA14121
peakid: MAKA
year: 2014
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Javier Camacho
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Makalu Expedition 2014 (Spanish Makalu Expedition)
bcdate: 2014-05-25
smtdate: 2014-05-25
termdate: 2014-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to coldness (without oxygen)
campsites: BC(19/04,4900m),ABC(22/04,5700m),C2(28/04,6400m),C3(01/05,7400m),C4(24/05,7590m),xxx(25/05,7700m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  19/04  4900m
  ABC 22/04  5700m
  C1   --	
  C2  28/04  6400m
  C3  01/05  7400m
  C4  24/05  7590m
  HPt 25/05  7700m by Zarzuelo at 3 am.

  Zarzuelo left C4 at 1:20 am together with Richard Hidalgo, who was also with Seven Summit Treks. She was not using oxygen and even though the other teams with oxygen seemed fine, the weather was too cold and so she decided to turn back. She descended to C4, where she rested and then carried on to C2, where she arrived at 5pm.

  Camacho reached C3 on 1 May and 23 May. He had problems breathing and decided to abandon the expedition. He descended to ABC on 24 May.

  Nuin reached 7200m on 4 May during the first acclimatisation rotation. He also joined the team on the summit push but went he left C2 for C3 on 23 May he did not feel strong enough to continue and abandoned his summit attempt. He descended to ABC the same day.

  Fernandez reached C3 on 4 May on the first acclimatisation rotation. He was not feeling well during most of the expedition and left ABC on 20 May.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


expid: MAKA14122
peakid: MAKA
year: 2014
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice, Suzanne Huesser
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Makalu Expedition 2014
countries: France, Germany, Japan, Netherlands, Russia, Switzerland, USA
approach: Everest BC->Pheriche
bcdate: 2014-04-17
smtdate: 2014-05-25
smttime: 0400
termdate: 2014-05-28
campsites: BC(17/04,5650m),C1(21/04,6065m),C2(23/04,6626m),C3(29/04,7400m),C4(24/05,7590m),Smt(25/05)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  BC   --
  ABC 17/04  5650m
  C1  21/04  6065m
  C2  23/04  6626m (directly below Makalu La)
  C3  29/04  7400m
  C4  24/05  7590m
  Smt 25/05  by Baranov, Tashi Chhiring, Sand, Pemba Gyalzen at 4 am;
             by Ishikawa, Schmitz and Pasang Chhiring at 4:15 am;
             by Rene Bergsma and Chumba at 4:45 am;
             by Bierling, Huesser, Chhebi Bhote and Lakpa Nuru at 5 am.

  First summit attempt started on 15 May from ABC. All members and Sherpas reached C2 and stayed the night, which was very windy. The following morning 16 May was too windy to climb up to C3 (Makalu La) and Seven Summit Sherpas were unable to fix rope from bottom of French Couloirs to summit due to high winds. Everyone descended to ABC.

  Second summit attempt started on 22 May from BC. Reached C4 on 24 May in good, but windy weather. Summit team left C4 at 10 pm on 24 May. Good conditions on the way. Sketchy rope fixing in French Couloirs and on summit ridge. Good views from the summit and members spent an average of about 20 to 30 minutes on the top. All members returned to C4 between 7 am and 9 am.

  Huesser had a cough all the way through expedition, which turned into pneumonia on the way down from the summit. She descended al the way to ABC, where she arrived at about 8 pm. Ishikawa, Baranov, Sand and all Sherpas also descended to ABC, where they arrived at 5 pm.

  Bierling, Bergsma and Schmitz spent the night at C2, where they arrived at 5 pm. They descended to ABC on 26 May.

  Casagrande reached C2 on 23 April. He skied with Baranov from C2 to crampon point. He was employed as Baranov's skiing guide; however, the two disagreed about the skiing conditions on the mountain. Casagrande was not happy with the conditions, but Baranov wanted to continue skiing, so Baranov told Casagrande that he would no longer need him. Casagrande left ABC by helicopter on the morning of 25 April.

  Smith decided that mountain was too hard for him and took helicopter to Kathmandu on 17 May. His high point was 7200m below the second rock band on 30 April.

  Schneider was the expedition doctor and never intended to leave ABC.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to summit to C3 by members, 
      apart from Huesser, who used it all the way down to ABC

  Sherpas:
    Lopsang Temba, 1968, Khumjung, Khumbu
    Tashi Chhiring, 8/5/1990, Khumjung, Khumbu
    Pasang Chhiring, 2040/7/5, Khumjung, Khumbu, South Col with Bangladeshis in 2006
    Chumba Sherpa, 2045/1/9,Jubing-6, 1st 8000er
    Chhebi Bhote, 30/9/74, Hatiya-3, Makalu
    Lakpa Nuru, 1962, Phortse, Khumjung


expid: MAKA14124
peakid: MAKA
year: 2014
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Inigo Castineyra
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Makalu Expedition 2014
approach: Tumlingtar->Num->Hillary BC
bcdate: 2014-04-12
smtdate: 2014-05-23
termdate: 2014-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to feeling weak and coughing
campsites: BC(12/04,4800m),ABC(14/04,5700m),C1(20/04,6400m),C2(21/04,6600m),C3(23/05,7400m),xxx(23/05,7400m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  12/04  4800m
  ABC 14/04  5700m
  C1  20/04  6400m
  C2  21/04  6600m
  C3  23/05  7400m
  HPt 23/05  7400m by Castineyra.

  Castineyra felt weak from the very beginning of the expedition. He had a bad cough and was struggling. He also said that he had problems with his Sherpa and he did not feel assisted by him. When he reached C3 on 23 May on his summit attempt, he found that there was no tent for him. Thankfully he found a space in someone else's tent.

  He spent the night at C3, but abandoned his summit attempt as he was not feeling well. He descended to ABC the following day.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from 7000m to high point to C2 by Castineyra


expid: MAKA14125
peakid: MAKA
year: 2014
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Ferran Latorre
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Makalu Expedition 2014
approach: Tumlingtar->Num->Hillary BC
bcdate: 2014-04-19
smtdate: 2014-05-24
termdate: 2014-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to onset of HAPE by Latorre
campsites: BC(19/04,4700m),ABC(22/04,5700m),C2(29/04,6600m),C3(01/05,7400m),xxx(24/05,7500m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  19/04  4700m
  ABC 22/04  5700m
  C1   ---
  C2  29/04  6600m
  C3  01/05  7400m
  HPt 24/05  7500 by Latorre and Llonch.

  Latorre and Llonch first tried for the summit on 18 May, however, when they reached C2 on 16 May the winds were too strong to continue up to C3, so they went back to ABC.

  During the second summit attempt they reached abut 7500m on 24 May; however, Latorre was feeling bad. He could not breathe properly and when they started to go from C3 to C4, Latorre's condition got worse. He thinks it could have been the onset of HAPE. The team decided to descend together and went all the way to ABC, where they arrived at 7 pm.

  Llonch also reached 7500m; however, as he was Latorre's friend, he did not want to continue on his own.

  Latorre was also involved in the attempted rescue of Yannick Gagneret from France.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


expid: MAKA14126
peakid: MAKA
year: 2014
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Frederic Roux
sponsor: Swiss Makalu Expedition 2014
approach: Num->Hillary BC
bcdate: 2014-04-16
smtdate: 2014-05-17
smttime: 1034
termdate: 2014-05-19
campsites: BC(16/04,4800m),ABC(19/04,5700m),C2(22/04,6800m),C3(29/04,7400m),C4(18/05,7870m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Sherpa & Swiss Adventures (Seven Summit Treks pmt)
routememo:
  BC  16/04  4800m
  ABC 19/04  5700m
  C1   --
  C2  22/04  6800m
  C3  29/04  7400m
  C4  18/05  7870m by Horn on the descent after summitting 
  Smt 17/05  by Roux at 10:34 am; Horn at 4:20 pm.

  Like many other teams, Horn and Roux reached C2 on 15 May. While most other climbers returned to ABC due to high winds on the route to the Makalu La on 16 May, they waited until midday and ascended to the Makalu La, where they arrived at around 5 pm.

  They started for their summit attempt from C3 at 11 pm. It was clear, but very cold. As Roux was a lot faster than Horn, they separated and Roux went ahead. In front of him were the rope-fixing Sherpas from Seven Summit Treks and four Indians; however, they ran out of rope at about 200m below the summit and turned back at around 9 am.

  Roux went on and used some of the old fixed rope and reached the summit at 10:34 am. He only stayed on the summit for about one minute ans started his descent. At about midday he bumped into Horn and the German climber Florian Huebschenberger, who had just reached the bottom of the French Couloir. As Roux started to have problems breathing, it was important to him to get down as quickly as possible and went all the way down to ABC, where he arrived at 9 pm.

  Horn reached the summit at 4:20 pm and spent about one hour on the summit to take photos and film. On the way down, Horn stayed at C4 (in Al Hancock's tent of Seven Summits), where he arrived at around 8 pm. On 18 May Horn descended to ABC, where he arrived at 2 pm.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


expid: MAKA14127
peakid: MAKA
year: 2014
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Ralph Schweizer
sponsor: An Australian to Makalu
approach: Tumlingtar->Num->Hillary BC
bcdate: 2014-04-17
smtdate: 2014-05-01
termdate: 2014-05-18
termnote: Abandoned at 7350m due to too much wind, no time to wait
agency: Ang Rita Treks (Seven Summit Treks pmt)
campsites:
  BC(17/04,4900m),ABC(20/04,5700m),C1(21/04,6400m),C2(23/04,6630m),C2B(30/04,7200m),C3(01/05,7350m),xxx(01,07/05,7350m)

routememo:
  BC  17/04  4900m
  ABC 20/04  5700m
  C1  21/04  6400m
  C2  23/04  6630m
  C2B 30/04  7200m (below second rock band)
  C3  01/05  7350m 
  HPt	01/05+07/05 7350m at C3 by Schweizer.

  On his second acclimatisation rotation, Schweizer was climbing with Yannick Gagneret from Seven Summit expeditions. On their way to C3 it started to get windy and as it was already late in the day, they set up an emergency bivouac at about 7200m - just below the second rock band. On 1 May they left their emergency bivouac at about 10 am and continued all the way to the Makalu La, where they arrived at about 3pm. The weather was bad with strong wind and heavy snow.

  On 2 May Schweizer was involved in the attempted rescue of French climber Yannick Gagneret.

  After the death of Gagneret, Schweizer rested at ABC for a few days and then went back to C3 for another acclimatization night. He returned on 8 May and then went down to Hillary BC on 10 May to recover. He returned to ABC on 13 May and started his summit attempt from ABC on 15 May.

  He stayed the night at C2, but on 16 May it was too windy to climb up to the Makalu La, and like everyone else, who stayed at C2 that night, he descended to ABC on 16 May.

  As he had to go back to Australia for family reasons, he could wait no longer for another weather window.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


  Account about attempted rescue of Yannick Gagneret

  On 30 April Gagneret and Schweizer from Ang Rita treks were moving from C2 up to C3. They were moving relatively slowly and they reached the top of the first rock band at about 5 pm, where they met Billi Bierling and stuart Smith from Himex, who told them that it would be another three hours to C3. They decided to pitch their tent at abotu 7300m in the start of the second rock band as it was already dark and both  climbers were exhausted. On 1 May they left their emergency bivouac at about 10 am and continued all the way to the Makalu La, where they arrived at about 3 pm. the weather was horrific with strong wind and heavy snow. Gagneret put up his own small tent and slept together with Eva Zarzuelo and Enrique Llonch from the Spanish Seven Summits expedition. Schweizer shared a Seven Summit tent with Javier Camacho. Gagneret seemed fine when Schweizer left him for the night.

  On 2 May, Schweizer had arranged to go to ABC with Gagneret at about 10 am: they both had to cache their high-altitude tents and supplies first. At 9:30 am, Schweizer approached Gagneret's tent and saw Ferran Latorre, who looked very worried. He said that he thought Gagneret was seriously sick and needed assistance. Schweizer looked into his tent and saw that Gagneret was just sitting there, staring. "This person was not Yannick anymore." Schweizer said 2x1mg of Dex were orally administered. Schweizer and Latorre started to dress Gagneret and lowered him down towards C2. At first Gagneret was responsive, but during the course of the descent, during which they and 5 Sherpas lowered him down 75 pitches on his back and buttocks, he was in and out of consciousness." We are lowering this corpse like body and I am afraid we are losing him." Schweizer said on the radio to Dr. Joe, the base camp doctor for Himalayan Experience. It took about 6 hours to get Gagneret through the two rock bands to get above C2. Gagneret was barely responsive.

  Chris Warner and his three climbing mates were at C2, and in the meantime, three Seven Summit Sherpas had brought up oxygen and dexamethasone. They met the rescuing party at 4 pm, about 20 minutes above C2 and gave him oxygen and constructed a sleigh from a tent and sleeping mats. Chris Warner's team and some Sherpas dragged Gagneret down; however, he had fully lost consciousness by then and was more than likely dead. Schweizer was sure he had just passed away and attempted CPR for a while before reaching C2. The rescue team, led by Chris Warner and assisted by Lhakpa from Himalayan Ascents was in constant contact with Dr. Joe who really wanted the patient at ABC as he wanted to confirm Gagneret was dead with his ultrasound machine that his heart had stopped beating. The team of Sherpas and western climbers dragged the body of Gagneret down to crampon point." It was very tough as Gagneret weighs about 85 kgs and we were all exhausted," Schweizer said. Chris Warner coordinated the recovery operation from C2 to crampon point, including all communications with ABC. When they arrived at the crampon point at about 7 pm, Warner notified Dr. Joe that carrying Gagneret's body down to ABC over big rock boulders was too dangerous and the body should be left at crampon point. After Schweizer had carried out some "alive tests" which Dr. Joe instructed him to do, Gagneret was pronounced dead (most probably of HACE) at 7:20 pm. They wrapped up the corpse and left him at crampon point to be picked up by helicopter two days later. All the rescuers arrived at ABC at about 9 pm.


expid: MAKA14123
peakid: MAKA
year: 2014
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Luis Stitzinger
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Makalu Expedition 2014 (Go Climb a Mountain Exp)
approach: Amphu Laptsa->West Col
bcdate: 2014-04-22
smtdate: 2014-05-17
smttime: 1545
termdate: 2014-05-28
agency: Seven Summit Treks
campsites:
  BC(22/04,4900m),ABC(24/04,5700m),C1(27/04,6300m),C2(28/04,6600m),C3(01/05,7400m),C4(16/05,7600m),Smt(17/05)

routememo:
  BC  22/04  4900m
  ABC 24/04  5700m
  C1  27/04  6300m
  C2  28/04  6600m
  C3  01/05  7400m
  C4  16/05  7600m
  Smt 17/05  by Huebschenberger at 3:45 pm.

  Stitzinger, Von Melle and Huebschenberger left C4 at 5 am. Weather was cold and windy. They climbed together to the beginning of the fixed ropes at about 7800m; however, as Huebschenberger was going faster, he carried on on his own. He caught up with Mike Horn from Switzerland of Swiss Sherpa Adventures in the French Couloirs (8250m). The fixed ropes ended at about 8350m, however, despite the exposure on the summit ridge he carried on. He was ahead of Horn and reached the summit at 3:45 pm. He stayed on the summit for about 20 minutes. He descended to C4, where he arrived at 9 pm, where he joined Stitzinger and von Melle in their tent.

  Stitzinger and Von Melle reached the base of the French Couloirs at 8250m at 2 pm. Stitzinger weas observing Huebschenberger and Horn and timed their progress. As they wanted to cross the summit ridge back and forth in daylight they realised that there was not enough time and decided to turn back. They descended to C4, where they arrived at about 5 pm.

  On 18 May they descended to ABC. They left C4 at about 10:30 am and stopped at the various camps to deposit material for a possible second summit attempt for Von Melle and Stitzinger and arrived at ABC at 6:30 pm.

  Stitzinger and Von Melle started a second summit attempt and left from ABC on 22 May. They reached C4 on 24 May and left for the summit at 2 am on 25 May. They were at about 8000m and decided to turn back as Von Melle and Stitzinger, and arrived at ABC at 6:30 pm.

  Stitzinger and von Melle started a second summit attempt and left from ABC on 22 May. They reached C4 on 24 May and left for the summit at 2 am on 25 May. They had been going for about 2 hours when von Melle felt very short of breath and very cold. They were at about 8000m and decided to turn back as Von Melle was getting worse. When they got back to C4 at about 6 am they got some oxygen from Himalayan Ascent as von Melle was feeling the onset of HAPE. They rested at C4 until about noon and descended all the way to ABC, where they arrived at 8 pm. Von Melle was checked by Dr. Joe from Himex, but she was fine.

  Oxygen: Not taken, but used by Von Melle from C4 to C2


expid: MANA14101
peakid: MANA
year: 2014
route1: NE Face
nation: UK
leaders: Victor Saunders
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Manaslu Expedition 2014
countries: Australia, Colombia, Denmark, Italy, Japan, USA
bcdate: 2014-04-21
smtdate: 2014-05-18
termnote: Abandoned at 7500m due to wind
campsites: BC(21/04,4800m),C1(28/04,5800m),C2(10/05,6200m),C3(17/05,6800m),xxx(18/05,7500m)
accidents: Fletcher eye problem
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Five of the eight members managed to reach the expedition high point of 7500m on 18 May. They were Bowers, Buchanan, Kiyomoto, Lopez and Saunders. They were accompanied by five Sherpas.

  It was a windy day, and three other members turned back between C3 and 7500m. Fletcher's eyesight was badly affected by the wind: he lost 90 percent of his vision in one eye and 50 percent of it in the other. Perhaps his corneas were frozen. He turned back at about 7000m. He was the only climber on the team to develop a health problem.

  Ledet and McGinn simply ran out of steam.

  No member used oxygen, but "one or two Sherpas," who were very tired, did use it when they went for the high point on 18 May.

  Sherpas (as listed on AC website):
    Phurba Ridar Bhote
    Kul Bahadur Thapa Magar (Talua, Okhaldhunga, 2027/4/6
    Pemba Wangdi Sherpa (Yaphu, 2044/8/13)
    Lhakpa Dendi Sherpa
    Ngima Dorji Sherpa
    Chomba Sherpa
    Jangbu Sherpa

  Keith Kerr and Andrea Beretta were an independent team with Saunders group. Their only hired was Kul Bahadur Thapa Magar


expid: PUMO14101
peakid: PUMO
year: 2014
route1: SE Face
nation: Kazakhstan
leaders: Dmitri Suponnikov
sponsor: Kazakhstan-Russian Pumori 2014
countries: Russia
bcdate: 2014-04-27
smtdate: 2014-04-29
termdate: 2014-04-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6200m due to deep snow and not enough rope
campsites: BC(27/04),C1(29/04,6200m),xxx(29/04,6200m)
agency: Royal High Mountain Treks
routememo:
  The team reached BC in Gorak Shep on 27 Aprl. Two members reached C1 at 6200m on 29 April. They considered the climbing too dangerous due to lots of snow and not enough ropes. Other expeditions were also in BC. Finally they made a decision to abandon climbing and return to Kathmandu. 

  Two members, Dmitri Bezruchko and Yuri Levin, did not go above Gorak Shep at all.


expid: SALW14101
peakid: SALW
year: 2014
route1: SE Face
nation: USA
leaders: Luke Smithwick
sponsor: Himalayan Alpine Guides Saldim Expedition 2014
bcdate: 2014-05-02
smtdate: 2014-05-03
termdate: 2014-05-04
termnote: Abandoned at 4875m due to continuous rain and snow
campsites: BC(02/05,4475m),ABC(03/05,4875m),xxx(03/05,4875m)
agency: Explore Himalaya
routememo:
  The name of the expedition was Saldim expedition since the tourism ministry considers Saldim and Peak 5 to be the same mountain. Actually Smithwick found that these are two separate peaks near each other on Nepal's border with Tibet east of Makalu. Their target was the SE Face of Peak 5.

  They flew from Kathmandu to Tumlingtar on 26 April, then took a Jeep to Num, then trekked to BC. Their approach march took them north-northwest to Sedua and Tashigaon, west-northwest to Kauma, north to Mumbuk, northwest to Yangri Kharka, and finally north, then west to Jark Kharka, where they made their BC on the 2nd of May.

  They made their ABC on the lateral moraine on 3 May, but went no farther. It had rained throughout their approach march and now was snowing at BC and ABC. They gave up.

  They left ABC on 4 May, followed the route they had taken from Tumlingtar, where they returned on 10 May, and flew the same day from Tumlingtar to Kathmandu.


expid: TSAR14101
peakid: TSAR
year: 2014
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Romania
leaders: Constantin Lacatusu
sponsor: Romanian Tsartse 6343 Himalaya Expedition 2014
bcdate: 2014-05-02
smtdate: 2014-05-17
termdate: 2014-05-18
termnote: Abandoned at 6330m due to extreme cold on 17th (and no time for 2nd try)
othersmts: Tashi Kang traverse to Tsartse
campsites: BC(02/05,4950m),ABC(04/05,5550m),C1(14/05,6030m),xxx(17/05,6330m)
agency: Multi Adventure
routememo:
  On 15 May, the day after the team had established C1 at 6030m, they began to fix rope in their traverse of Tashikang to reach the SE Ridge of Tsartse.

  The 16th was a rest day in C1. Light snowfall began.

  The 17th the four Romanians began their summit push from C1 at 1:00 am. But they got no farther than 6330m because of the extreme cold; Amzarov's toes were in danger of freezing.

  They turned back to C1 and their climb was over. They had no time for a second summit bid. They descended to BC that day and left BC on the 18th to return to Kathmandu.

  On the 19th they were back in Marpha, and from there they trekked to Pokhara to fly to Kathmandu on the 22nd.


expid: MAKA14101
peakid: MAKA
year: 2014
route1: Makalu-La-NW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Willi Benegas
sponsor: Benegas Brothers Expeditions (BBE) Makalu 2014
approach: Ktm to ABC by helicopter
bcdate: 2014-05-22
smtdate: 2014-05-25
smttime: 0400
termdate: 2014-05-28
othersmts: Summited Cho Oyu on 17 May (CHOY-141-02)
campsites: ABC(22/05,5700m),C2(23/05,6600m),C3(25/05,7400m),Smt(25/05)
achievment: Moniz is youngest person on top of Makalu
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  ABC 22/05  5700m
  C1   --
  C2  23/05  6600m
  C3  24/05  7400m
  Smt 25/05  by Benegas, Moniz, Nima (Thame), Pemba (Khumjung) at 4 am.

  Team started from C3 at 9 pm on 24 May. Straightforward climb. Just below the summit, Moniz's regulator exploded and Benegas exchanged it with his spare regulator. When they arrived on the summit, Benegas' regulator also exploded and he fixed it, however, he was not getting the usual 3l but maybe about 1l. They stayed on the summit for about 5 minutes. It was still dark. They descended all the way to ABC, where they arrived at 3:30 pm.

  Fixed rope:	60m inside French Couloirs

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C2 to summit to C2 by members and Sherpas


expid: MAKA14103
peakid: MAKA
year: 2014
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Peru
leaders: Richard Hidalgo
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Makalu Expedition 2014
approach: Num->Hillary BC
bcdate: 2014-04-19
smtdate: 2014-05-25
smttime: 0645
termdate: 2014-05-27
termnote: Abandoned at 7700m due to coldness of feet
campsites: BC(19/04,4700m),ABC(22/04,5700m),C2(29/04,6600m),C3(23/05,7400m),C4(24/05,7590m),xxx(25/05,7700m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks (Himalayan Guides pmt)
routememo:
  BC  19/04  4700m
  ABC 22/04  5700m
  C1   --
  C2  29/04  6600m
  C3  23/05  7400m
  C4  24/05  7590m
  HPt 25/05  7700m by Hidalgo at 3:20 am.

  Hidalgo left C4 at 1.20am. He walked for about 2 hours; however, his feet got too cold and he decided to turn back. He descended to C4 where he arrived at 4:20 am. He rested for a while and descended to C2, where he arrived at 4:30 pm. On 26 May he descended to ABC.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used


expid: AMAD14101
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Alexander Roeck
sponsor: Austrian Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Namche->Tengboche->Dingboche->Base Camp
bcdate: 2014-03-21
smtdate: 2014-04-02
smttime: 1530
termdate: 2014-04-06
campsites: BC(21/03,4600m),C1(24/03,5600m),C2(30/03,5900m),C3(31/03,6300m),Smt(02/04)
agency: High Valley Treks
routememo:
  Team started for the summit from C3 at approximately 6 am. They reached the summit at 3:30 pm and left the summit at approx 4 pm for C3. Then the accident occured at 6600m and the team had to be evacuated.

  Accident (fall) by Juergen Handl on the way down from summit to C3, at approx 6600m; rescued by helicopter on 3 April to Kathmandu; Alexander Roeck and climbing Sherpa Pasang Kaji Sherpa went down to base camp where they were evacuated by helicopter on 5 April 2014.


  Alexander Roeck - 26 May 2014

  The reason for the accident will remain unclear I guess. The Sherpa and I didn't see it and Handl can't remember. We guess it was just an ordinary accident (stumbling, break of a handle, etc). There was no avalanche or the like and we did not suffer from mountain sickness. I have no exact time, but the accident was at approximately 4:30 or 5 pm.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Kaji Sherpa, Dhodre, Sotang-6, Solu, 24/02/1981 (21/10/2037)


expid: AMAD14102
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Jost Kobusch
sponsor: Just Go for it Ama Dablam 2014
approach: Lukla->Tengboche
bcdate: 2014-04-27
smtdate: 2014-05-10
smttime: 1815
termdate: 2014-05-12
campsites: BC(27/04,4600m),C1(29/04,5500m),C1B(07/05,5700m),C2(08/05,5995m),Smt(10/05)
achievment: Youngest solo climber to date
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks (Prestige Adventure pmt)
routememo:
  BC  27 Apr - 4600m
  C1  29 Apr - 5500m (for acclimatization); 5700m (for summit push)
  C2  08 May - 5995m

  On 29th, 30th and 1 May spent 3 nights at C1 (5500m) to acclimatize, then went back to BC. Here waited some days for good weather, went back to Thyangboche to meet a friend.

  On the 7 May, slept at new C1 (5700m), then on the 8 May at C2 (5995m) sleeping again there on the 9 May. On the 10 May, started at 0010 hr, reached the summit at 6:15 pm (initially planned to go up to the summit and down to C2 in 18 hrs) in -25 degree C conditions (felt temperature, not measured one), and was back to C2 at 2 am on the 11 May (26 hours up and down). This day he woke up at 11 am and was back to BC at 8 pm (really tired).

  Wind was Ok, but got really strong during really cold evenings.

  Conditions on the mountain quite icy this season, but good grip; scary passage at the Yellow Tower (climbed it with the rope hanging from his rucksack); had rests otherwise at rocky areas in the remnant of the route.

  From C2 not possible to use fixed ropes (frozen in blue ice) from 6200m to 6500m (1 line there, not very safe to use (confirmed by the Ukrainians of Kilichenko - in particular about the Koreans rope), then one last line from below the last rock island up besides to it.

  Below, had to avoid on right hand lots of powder snow, then on the left fixed ropes enforcing a wide crevasse (bad condition): he avoided this difficulty using a small couloir close to the rocks (after the routes turned move to the left again)

  Jost Kobusch could provide with pictures from the summit and one picture during his climb between C2 and summit (from mushroom ridge); had to climb during this period and keep his battery energy for the summit. He was watched as well from the valley.

  About the Russian accident (Osho Treks):

  Were 9 people on the mountain, even 10 on the permit. Jost Kobusch met 1 member in Dingboche who was feeling not well and didn't climb.

  Russians high point at around C3 (about 6400m).

  On 30 April, Jost Kobusch was going alone from C1 to C2, then met some of the Russian people at the top of the Yellow Tower. At 6:30 am, was an helicopter rescue around 6300m (lower than mushroom ridge, some of them in Grey Tower). 2 people had died from HAPE. Russians decided to go down to their C1 that day (Russian C1 a bit higher than Jost Kobusch C1) at 5700m. All look very exhausted.

  The Russian told they had 4 nights above 6000m (at C2 for sure and maybe C3). Jost Kobusch believes them to be too slow using very heavy style, 2 people having already altitude effect problems in Thyangboche.

  On 29 April usual afternoon snowfalls (5 cms of new powder snow) didn't allow helicopter to fly.

  Jost Kobusch hypothesis: Russian group climbed during the night of the 28th to 29 April from C2 to C3 around Grey Towers, went into bad situation due to altitude sickness on the 29 April, then on the 30 April two dead bodies and others could be picked up from the mountain. He is not sure whether they were going up or down when accident happened, maybe blocked or in between camps.

accidents:
  Had lung edema due to altitude and infection by some viral bacteria, coughing blood before summit; spent 3 days/2 nights on return to Kathmandu at SWACON hospital


expid: AMAD14103
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: S Face (to 5600m)
route2: SW Ridge
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Yuri Kilichenko
sponsor: Odessa Ama Dablam Expedition
approach: Lukla->Namche->Tyangboche->Lobuche->Deboche
bcdate: 2014-04-29
smtdate: 2014-05-13
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2014-05-15
othersmts: Summited Lobuche East (LOBE-141-01)
campsites: BC(29/04,Deboche),ABC(07/05,5450m),C2(11/05,5800m),C3(12/05,6200m),Smt(13/05)
agency: Windhorse Trekking
routememo:
  After its new route on Lobuche East Face, the team aimed to repeat the Russian route on South Face of Ama Dablam (South Face to SE ridge, 1995). The team left Lobuche on the 29 April for Debuche and made Rivendell Guest house its BC. There they waited 5 days in very bad weather.

  On the 5 May the team left, reaching its ABC after 2 days on the footstep of a ridge located in the left central part of the South Face at 5450m.

  On the 7 May the team tried to put a fixed rope on the bergschrund of the Russian 1995 line up to 5600m; here the team got hit by a small avalanche, luckily without injury; the team went back to BC to observe conditions of the route better.

  After two days, on the night of the 9 May to avoid avalanches, the team went back to the bergschrund to take off its fixed rope, abandoning this night it hopes for the Russian route.

  In fact each brought 3 to 4 avalanches plus stone falls; during the night the team  could hear some sounds of melted snow flowing through the gullies; The problem was that they would have been too much exposed during the first couloir (3 to 4 pitches of 60m) above the bergschrund, this one needing to be taken to reach the safe East Ridge. Yuri believes autumn to be a better season to try the route. This season anyway it found it to be maybe impossible to climb this year.

  On the 10 May the team decided to try for the normal route, reaching its ABC at 5100m that same day. Only Yuri Kilichenko went down to the BC to call for the liaison officer to get an official authorization for permit, which was accorded. Then they repeated the classic SW ridge route as follows:

  C2 5800m on 11 May

  C3 (6200m) on 12 May located 100m below official C3, much safer according to them - could find big ice blocks at C3 official location.

  Summit on 13 May and back to C3 (start at 6 am; summited at 2 pm, waiting there 40 minutes amongst the fog to get rid of it: it was so cold or windy; back at C3 at 6 pm.

  Yuri Kilichenko says they didn't use the vast majority existing fixing ropes, these couldn't be trusted as being poor quality ones (Korean ropes) and only good to use when you put fresh one yourself. Notably at Mushroom Ridge the ropes were in very terrible condition.

  The normal route not very technical, but can be a serious route depending on the conditions.


expid: AMAD14105
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Iran
leaders: Emamali Rahimi
sponsor: Iranian Ama Dablam Expedition 2014
approach: Lukla->Namche
bcdate: 2014-04-24
smtdate: 2014-04-30
termdate: 2014-05-05
termnote: Abandoned at 5750m due to altitude problems of members and fight of some members with leader
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak on 21 April
campsites: BC(24/04,4650m),ABC(30/04,5400m),xxx(30/04,5750m)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Some members had problem in altitude, but insisted to climb higher and leader didn't allow them. It made problems in team and fighting with leader.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Sherpa
    Norbu Sherpa


expid: ANID14101
peakid: ANID
year: 2014
route1: NE Face
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Paul Hersey
sponsor: New Zealand Anidesh Chuli Expedition 2014
countries: Australia
approach: Bus to Taplejung->Ghunsa->Kangbachen
bcdate: 2014-04-21
smtdate: 2014-05-02
termdate: 2014-05-08
termnote: Abandoned at 5600m due to snow conditions and weather conditions
campsites: BC(21/04,4900m),C1(01/05,5200m),C2(25/04,5400m),xxx(02/05,5600m)
accidents: Low effects of HAS for Paul Hersey on 24th
agency: Dream Himalaya Adventures
routememo:
  On 24th the entire team went to acclimatize at C1 and made a deposit there. Paul Hersey was feeling the first symptoms of HAS, so the team went back to the BC. Paul Hersey would stay at BC from the 25th being not as well acclimatized as his partners; he couldn't climb along with them anymore (his high point C1).

  On 25 April Shelley and John went back to C1, then up to 5400m where they put C2 and slept there (safe bivouac place in the icefall). Then on the 26th the weather turned bad and the pair had to come back to BC.

  On the 1 May Shelley and John went to sleep at C1, then the day after pushed again 3 hours up to 5600m, finding a better way through the icefall, but eventually struggling one hour to gain 30m, with deep snow up to the chest and now no more visibility.

  They could only consider the same day it was impossible to go further in such snow conditions and decided to abandon.

  It snowed almost every day 15 cm of fresh snow during the expedition, with snow up to the chest during the second attempt. The icefall conditions changed in 1 yr: from C1 the right-hand side gully nearing the rocks border of the icefall wasn't anymore existing: one Ben Dare's team could use unroped the previous year. 


expid: ANNS14101
peakid: ANNS
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Pu Wei
sponsor: Chinese Annapurna South Expedition
approach: Pokhara->Gandruk->Tatopani Danda
bcdate: 2014-04-17
smtdate: 2014-04-27
termdate: 2014-05-07
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to lack of experience by Chinese
agency: Asia Explore Adventure
campsites:
  Nepalese.BC(17/04,4400m),Chinese.BC(30/04,4400m),Nepalese.C1(21/04,5100m),Chinese&Nepalese(05/05,5100m),Nepalese.C2(27/04,5900m)

routememo:
  Nepali staff left KTM on 14 April, reaching BC on the 17 April. 

  From there they reached C1 first on 19 April, made a deposit and went back there on the 21 April for sleeping. Slept there again on 22 April, then reached C2 the day after (putting 400m of fixed rope), made a deposit there and went back to BC for a rest. The team reached again C2 on the 27 April, slept there and fixed 500m of static rope on a long ridge traverse up to 200m below initially planned C2 on the 28 April. As they didn't have rope anymorem they had to go back to BC the day after (29 April) to get new ones.

  On the 30 April the Chinese team arrived in BC and both teams had a meeting. 6 Chinese team = 5 climbing members + 1 BC manager (not climbing)

  On the 5 May the Chinese group reached C1, arrived there at 3 pm in windy conditions, and decided at 5 pm that they did not want to climb. According to Tshiring Jangbu Sherpa, everyday the weather was the same: clear sky until 11 am-12 pm, then wind, snow, bad weather. The team slept there anyway and went back to BC the day after. On the 7 May, the Chinese went back to Pokhara, spent 4 nights there, then went back to KTM on the 11 May.

  After the departure of the Chinese, the Nepali team cleaned the mountain up to C2, but found it to be too dangerous to take off the ropes on the traverse between C2 and C3. They left BC on the 9 May.

  Fixed rope: 900m (400m from C1 to C2, 500m from C2 to lower C3)

  Sherpas:
    Tshiring Jangbu Sherpa, (17/4/2034) 1/8/1977, Rakshi Kharka, Lokhim-9, Solu
    Pburba Gyaljang Sherpa, (2047/7/20) 24/10/1990
    Cherku Sherpa, Sotang, Solukhumbu 
    Nima "Chhiri" Nuru Sherpa, 24/03/1982, Harichi, Khotang


expid: BARU14102
peakid: BARU
year: 2014
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Alexander Ostermann
sponsor: AuIta Baruntse Expedition 2014
countries: Italy
approach: See route notes
bcdate: 2014-04-30
smtdate: 2014-05-03
termdate: 2014-05-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to lack of equipment
othersmts: Summited Mera Peak on 28 April by Schwitzer, Steinmann and Gyalzen
campsites: BC(30/04,5450m),xxx(03/05,6100m)
agency: Himalayan Glacier
routememo:
  Approach: Lukla, Paiya, Pangkoma, Ningson, open camp, Kothe, Tangnag, Khare, Mera high camp, Kongma Digma, BC 

  Logistics support and gears did not reach in time and team could not wait for long.

  Ostermann's high point was 5950m.


expid: CHOY14109
peakid: CHOY
year: 2014
route1: NW side
nation: Poland
leaders: Jerzy Rozen
sponsor: George R. Cho Oyu Expedition
bcdate: 2014-04-21
smtdate: 2014-04-27
termdate: 2014-05-11
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to first symptoms of high altitude sickness
campsites: BC(21/04,4915m),ABC(24/04,5500m),xxx(27/04,6000m)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  High point on 27 Apr about 12:00 pm above 6000m at final slope aproaching to C1.

  Planned to climb on Cho Oyu only. Arrived there on 21 April (BC), 24 April ABC, left ABC and BC on 11 May then went back to KTM on the 12 May for medical examination (done on 13 May in CIWEC) before starting for a short trek in Rolwaling Himal on 15 May (up to 4700m). Went back to KTM on 22 May and left Nepal on 24 May.

  Sherpa:
    Phurba Temba Sherpa, 2/5/1968, Namche-9


expid: CHOY14110
peakid: CHOY
year: 2014
route1: NW side
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Peter Schatzl
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Cho Oyu Expedition 2014
countries: Austria, Germany
approach: From Xixabangma BC to Cho Oyu BC directly
bcdate: 2014-05-12
smtdate: 2014-05-17
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2014-05-21
campsites: BC(12/05,4900m),ABC(13/05,5700m),C1(14/05,6400m),C2(15/05,7000m),C3(16/05,7400m),Smt(17/05)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  The team acclimatized on Shishapangma, failed there, then joined directly to Cho Oyu BC and started directly its ascent.

  On summit day, left C3 at 2 am, reached the summit at 10 am, and went abck to ABC the same day at 6 pm.

  Members Alznauer and Schneller left early around mid-April.
  Rombach had high point at 7000m (C2).
  Waelti had high point at 8000m.

  Sherpas:
    Kanchha Lama Sherpa, 19/11/82, Taksindu-2
    Pemba Sherpa, 24/1/76, Lelep-8
    Tenji Sherpa, 16/4/81, Tapting-7
    Landuk Sherpa, 27/3/87, Lelep-9


expid: CHOY14111
peakid: CHOY
year: 2014
route1: NW side
nation: Russia
leaders: Yuri Kruglov
sponsor: MAI Cho Oyu Expedition 2014
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2014-04-24
smtdate: 2014-05-18
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2014-05-21
campsites: BC(24/04,5000m),ABC(26/04,5500m),C1,C2,C3(17/05,7400m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  On 18 May started from C3 at 2 am, reached summit at 9 am, back to C3 at 3 pm.
  On 19 May back to ABC at 5500m
  On 20 May back to BC at 5000m (at 1 pm)
  Left BC on 21 May to Zangmu, then Kathmandu the next day.


expid: CHOY14112
peakid: CHOY
year: 2014
route1: NW side
nation: Slovakia
leaders: Michal Chovanec
sponsor: Slovak-French Cho Oyu Expedition
countries: France
approach: Lhasa->Xigatse->Gyantse->Tingri
bcdate: 2014-04-19
smtdate: 2014-05-17
termdate: 2014-05-21
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to lack of acclimatization
campsites: BC(19/04,4900m),ABC(23/04,5700m),C1(30/04,6400m),C2(14/05,7200m),C3(16/05,7500m),xxx(17/05,7900m)
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Climb abandoned at 7900m due to not well acclimatized.

  Barta went up to 6700m, suffered from stomach problem. 
  De Raphelis and Juris went up to C3.


expid: DHA114108
peakid: DHA1
year: 2014
route1: NE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Chang-Baek
sponsor: 2014 Cheiju Korean Dhaulagiri Expedition
approach: Beni->Darban->BC
bcdate: 2014-04-12
smtdate: 2014-05-12
termdate: 2014-05-14
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to bad weather (wind and snow)
campsites: BC(12/04,4700m),C1(17/04,5600m),C2(19/04,6700m),C3(12/05,7400m),xxx(12/05,7400m)
agency: NE-KO Treks
routememo:
  High point on 12 to 14 May (2 nights) at 7400m (C3) by Kim Yeong-Rong, Kim Dae-Leang and 4 Sherpas.

  Member high points:
    Lee Chang-Beak (C2)
    Kim Yeong-Rong (C3)
    Kang Jong-Jin (C2)
    Kim Dae-Leang (C3)
    Hyun Bo-Sang (C2)

  Fixed rope: 1300m between BC and C3.

  Sherpas (all four of them went to C3):
    Pasang Namgyal Sherpa, 25/11/72, Khumjung, Khumbu
    Doma Chhiring Sherpa, 17/01/84, Sikli, Jubing, Solukhumbu
    Nima Sherpa, 18/3/80, Bishinga, Okhaldhunga
    Pasang Sherpa, 18/5/76, Tamakhani-7, Solukhumbu
    Druba Rai (cook) stayed at BC


expid: DHA114109
peakid: DHA1
year: 2014
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Chile
leaders: Rodrigo Vivanco
sponsor: Chilean Dhaulagiri I Expedition 2014
bcdate: 2014-04-14
smtdate: 2014-05-04
termdate: 2014-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 7400m due to weather conditions (heavy snow)
campsites: BC(14/04,4620m),C1(19/04,5600m),C2(26/04,6500m),C3(03/05,7200m),xxx(04/05,7400m)
agency: Adventure Geo Treks
routememo:
  High point on 4 May at 7400m, 200m above C3 by Rodrigo, Marcelo, and Andreas.

  On 1 May Rodrigo, Marcelo and Andreas slept again at C1, then at C2 on the 2 May and C3 on the 3 May. The trio attempted for the summit on the 4 May from C3 up to 7400m, facing difficult deep snow conditions in bad weather. They retreated the same day to BC.

  On the 10 May, the trio slept again at C3 for a summit on the 11 May, but the weather turned stormy and windy that day so they had to go down to BC without going higher than C3. Same day they decided to abandon their attempt.

  Alejandro was sick most of the expedition (altitude sickness, dehydration), reached 5300m as his high point.

  It was the 5th Chilean attempt on Dhaulagiri I; this mountain remaining unclimbed from the Chilean nation as is Kangchenjunga.


expid: DHA114110
peakid: DHA1
year: 2014
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Nirmal Purja
sponsor: Nepalese Dhaulagiri 2014 Expedition
approach: Tatopani->Italian BC
bcdate: 2014-05-09
smtdate: 2014-05-18
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2014-05-20
campsites: BC(09/05,4500m),C1(11/05,5500m),C2(16/05,6300m),C3(17/05,7500m),Smt(18/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Did acclimatize as follows: stayed 2 nights at Italian BC, 1 night at Japanese BC, 2 nights at BC before sleeping at C1.

  On 15 May they started at night to reach C2 directly the next day where they slept. Next day had a rest at C3. Started at 11 pm that night, reached summit next day at 11:30 am, came back to C2 for sleeping that night (at 4 pm). Next day reached BC at noon.

  Krishna Thapa [Magar] skied down from C2 to BC in not so good snow conditions. He didn't aim for a complete ski descent from the top, but thinks now its possible.

  Next season both will come back to climb Makalu with a larger team of the British Army.

  Fixed rope: 300m to 400m

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Sherpa, Makalu
    Mingma Dorchi [13015/50]


expid: DRAG14101
peakid: DRAG
year: 2014
route1: SE Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Tae-Hun
sponsor: Himalayan 2014 Korean Vision Expedition
smtdate: 2014-04-21
campsites: Smt(21/04)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  Summit on 21 May by Jin Jang-Kyu, Kim Gyoung-Ryeol, Tshering Thundu, Ngawang Karsang and Phura Nuru.

  Sherpas:
    Tshering Thundu Sherpa, 4/10/74 (18/6/2031), Khumjung-2
    Ngawang Karsang Sherpa, 26/11/67 (10/8/2024), Khumjung-1
    Phura Nuru Sherpa, 28/6/85 (14/3/2042), Namche-5
    Lhakpa Gyalze Sherpa, 23/8/73 (7/5/2030), Gorakhani-8, Solu


expid: EVER14136
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Heo Young-Ho
sponsor: South Korean Everest Spring 2014
bcdate: 2014-04-27
smtdate: 2014-04-27
termdate: 2014-04-28
termnote: Abandoned at 5350m due to Sherpa strike
campsites: BC(27/04,5350m),xxx
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Heo arrived at BC after the avalanche happened. He had heard about it on his trek to BC, but continued to go. He only stayed one night at BC. He went for a trek afterwards.


expid: EVER14151
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Africa
leaders: Ronnie Muhl
sponsor: Adventures Global Everest 2014
countries: Australia, India
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2014-04-09
smtdate: 2014-04-09
termdate: 2014-04-27
termnote: Abandoned at 5350m due to Sherpa strike
campsites: BC(09/04,5350m),xxx
agency: Dream Himalaya Adventures
routememo:
  Six of the eight Sherpas had been through the Icefall twice before to carry loads to C2, however no members went higher than BC. Even though Muhl and his team considered carrying on after the avalanche happened, Muhl realized that there was no point in waiting around and decided to cancel the expedition. They left BC on 27 April and took a helicopter to Lukla, where they stayed the night.


expid: EVER14153
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Ireland
leaders: Robert Smith
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Everest Expedition 2014
countries: Australia, UK
approach: Zhangmu->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2014-04-14
smtdate: 2014-05-25
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2014-05-31
campsites: BC(14/04,5200m),ABC(21/04,6400m),C1(04/05,7050m),C2(23/05,7800m),C3(24/05,8300m),Smt(25/05)
agency: Makalu Adventure
routememo:
  Kenyon, Merriman, Smith, Phurba Ongel and Phurba Wangchu started their summit bid from C3 at 22:15 hrs/NST on 24 May. Kenyon turned around from about 8400m due to tiredness. Smith got to the top at 08:00 hrs on 25 May and Merriman at 09:25 hours. Smith stayed on summit about 30 minutes and Merriman for about 15 minutes. Smith reached C3 at 12 noon and Merriman at 15:00 hours. Next day both climbers and Sherpas went down to C1 and following day to ABC. There were 4-5 climbers on the summit ahead of Smith team and behind them many other climbers. Smith estimates that about 40 climbers summited on that day.

  Jeremy Beesley did not join the expedition; he did not come to Nepal.

  Mark Cadman spent night at C2 on 24 May; he suffered from diarrhea.

  Angus Caithness spent night at C1 on 23 May; he too suffered from diarrhea.

  Sherpas:
    Phurba Ongel, 30/7/1981, Sedua, Makalu
    Phurba Wangchu, 5/12/75, Waku-9


expid: EVER14154
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Slovakia
leaders: Peter Hamor
sponsor: Romania-Slovakia Spring 2014
countries: Romania
approach: Kodari->Nyalam->Tingri
bcdate: 2014-05-09
smtdate: 2014-05-23
termdate: 2014-05-29
termnote: Abandoned at 7800m due to strong wind
campsites: BC(09/05,5200m),ABC(13/05,6400m),C1(15/05,7050m),C2(23/05,7700m),xxx(23-24/05,7800m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Initially planned NE Couloir of the NE Shoulder of Everest. But conditions just too dry for an alpine-style ascent: low part was in blue ice, center too rocky (risk of falling rock) and the final part presented a thick layer of fresh snow posed on blue ice. In these conditions would have meant a slow ascent, fixing ropes to secure their progress.

  So they decided instead to go on the normal route for an alpine-style ascent. Whilst going up with the other teams, on the 24 May they considered the wind was too strong, so they would have no chance to climb without oxygen, being too cold.

  Peter Hamor first saw the NE Couloir route in 1998 during a national expedition to Everest N Ridge. Back at that time he felt attracted by the direct logical line, but couldn't try it as he had to obey the rules of the large expedition.


expid: EVER14161
peakid: EVER
year: 2014
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Wang Jing
sponsor: 9 + 2 Project to Everest
bcdate: 2014-05-07
smtdate: 2014-05-23
smttime: 1830
termdate: 2014-05-25
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East
campsites: BC(07/05,5350m),C2(10/05,6450m),C3(16/05,7400m),C4(22/05,7950m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Himalayan Sherpa Adventure
routememo:
  C2 at 6450m by helicopter from BC non-stop to C2 and C2 to BC
  C4 at South Col.

  It was an helicopter-assisted ascent and descent.


  Email from Jing Wang - July 7, 2014

  When the avalanche occurred, I was with Russell's [Himex] team on Lobuche doing conditioning training. Even though I wasn't on Everest, but when I heard about the avalanche, it was still quite devastating, I felt many people felt the same way. I love mountaineering so of course I also love the Sherpa people. Since I've started climbing in Nepal in 2009, I've been coming back here ever since. Those mountaineers who were planning on climbing Everest did not want to give up, and most Sherpas in the expeditions did not want to go on strike, they wanted to continue climbing just like other clients, but because of the threats they faced, they had to give up on climbing. In fact, the Nepal government issued an open letter on April 24th stating that Everest was still open to the mountaineers, and encouraged everyone to climb. I'm sure you know this background more than me.

  The mountaineers didn't just give up climbing; in fact it was quite the opposite. When my teammates heard of the news, everyone was quite down, but at the same time wanted to figure out how do we keep on climbing? Everyone was trying to figure out the possibility of continuing the climb; there were also people who tried to see if going up on the north side would be a possibility. But the authorities for the north side cited safety as its reason and refused everyone who asked to climb on the north. This included me. As you know, to prepare to climb Everest takes tremendous amount of preparation work - this includes mentally, materially, time-wise, and monetarily; no one wants to give up on something like this so easily. I was the same as everyone else. I wanted to continue to climb. Besides that, I also had another reason.

  At the beginning of this year in January, I embarked on a 9+2 project, which involves climbing the tallest peak of each continent, as well as trekking to the tip of both poles, as well as completing two controversial peaks (Mt. Blanc and Kosciusko). At the time of the avalanche, I had already completed 5 highest peaks out of the continents as well as the two poles; I only had to finish Everest then one last peak at McKinley to complete my goal. I really didn't want to just give it up so close to finish, so I tried one more time on the south side. I found friends in Nepal and asked him to help me plan it out. Before this I still contacted my previous expedition team organizer, Himex founder Russell Brice, and asked him in person if it was possible to go back to base camp and continue to climb and was told no, its not possible to go back to base camp and organize a climb anymore. I didn't want to bring him any problems, so after that I didn't tell him of my plans to go up. My Sherpas and I considered the question of safety in full magnitude, one side is safety of the climb, and the other is the safety of everyone on the climb. The organizer and the Sherpas assured me they would make sure there's no conflict between the Sherpas, and I won't need to worry about this. My English is not that good, so pretty much everything off the mountain was taken care of by my Nepalese friends. I trust them completely.

  Arrived at EBC on 7th May, on May 10th flew via helicopter to C2 (at 6450m).
  (By May 8th the American mountaineer Cleo Weidlich already flew to C2).

  After we arrived in C2 on May 10th, we set up camp and stayed there that night. The Sherpas and I went in and out of the mountain at the same time.

  May 16th arrived at C3 high camp at 7400m, slept there that night, then descended.

  May 21st we arrived at C3 again and stayed one night.

  May 22nd approx at 3:30 pm, I arrived at South Col at 7950m, began to set up camp, started resting around 9:00 pm, but did not fall into deep sleep.

  May 22nd at midnight, 4 Sherpas went out to fix the route ahead, another Sherpa (Lakpa: 22 yrs old) and I began going up at around 6:00 am May 23rd this time. I was in charge of analyzing the weather, organizing the team and out schedule. On the morning of my summit day, I was still able to use my satellite phone to call and asked for the weather forecast for the next few days, confirming once again that the 23rd was a good day and that 24th morning also good.

  We descended from summit as soon as we finished taking pictures and videos. It was approximately 25 minutes. We descended to South Col and used one Toread tent and one North Face tent.

  [So at about 6:00 am that day, she and her fifth Sherpa set out for the top. Twelve and a half hours later, according to her account, Mrs. Jing Wang from Beijing and three Sherpas from Nepal stood at the summit of Everest.]

  Three Sherpas reached the summit with me Pasang [Nuru], Lhakpa [Gyalzen] and Riten Jangbu (aka Tashi), all have about 2-5 times of Everest experience, all excellent Sherpas.

  We used the ropes from Lhotse to South Col, then from South Col to an area around the South Peak, exactly how many meters I don't know. I have used old ropes from previous years in a few sections (for example, exposed ropes on top of rocks).

  This time the ascent was drastically different from the previous 2 experiences. Because there were no footprints left from previous climbers, this increased the difficulty exponentially. There were more exposed boulders along the way, especially from C2, you can see a big difference, many parts of the path you can actually see whereas in previous years it was completely covered in snow, but on Lhotse it was nearly all ice, very different for climbing.

  This climb was incredibly difficult, so even the Sherpas were using oxygen when they were fixing the route. The more specific location was probably near C3, because everyone's body condition is different, they all started using oxygen at a different point, including me. Same thing for the descent. Everyone's condition and oxygen usage differed, but generally we stopped using oxygen by the end of Lhotse side.

  May 23rd 11 pm we got back to South Col, we started descending early morning on the 24th, by noon everyone had descended down to C2. By 26th morning everyone as well as our stuff was back at base camp.

  May 25th returned to Kathmandu in the afternoon, that evening flew to the US for the last stop McKinley.

  The five climbing Sherpas were all provided by Phurba Gyalzen from Himalayan Sherpa Adventure. I paid directly to the expedition company, the company then paid the Sherpa's fee they agreed, so I don't know the specific amount that was paid to the Sherpas.

  From BC to C2 I only flew once, same thing for the descent. There was only one plane that transported back and forth (each return trip would be about 7-8 minutes). It was not Simrik Air, I actually don't remember the name of the helicopter company.

  Cleo Weidlich came to our cooking tent once, I heard from my Sherpas after that it was because she wanted my Sherpas to help her fix the ropes to Lhotse Peak. When we were at C3, I saw her camp, at that time, it was already ragged from wind blowing and wearing down. We though there was no one inside, but later on the Sherpas checked in the tents, and her Sherpas and her were inside; we were quite concerned that her tent would be blown away by the wind. The next morning she departed first, when we passed by her later on, we exchanged few words, be safe kind of thing, not a lot of commnication.


  Email from Himalayan Experience (Russell Brice) - 12 May 12 2014

  It has been a very stressful and crazy year on Everest. I will eventually get around to writing more about this season, however in the meanwhile I need to clarify what is currently happening on Everest.

  Many of you know that I have been dealing with the logistics for Jing Wang to climb the 7 Summits and 2 poles in record time. Of course this project came to an abrupt end when I was forced to cancel my Everest and Lhotse trips. I suggested to Jing that she go to the north side of Everest and obtain a climbing permit from the CMA or CTMA, but this was not forthcoming. Although Jing asked if I could arrange for her trip to continue on the south side, I refused and so did all my Sherpa staff.

  In the event it appears that Jing has arranged to continue to climb with another agency and has without permission flown by helicopter to C2, despite me warning her not to.

  This has caused me considerable problems with the Ministry, who say that I am still responsible for Jing, despite me knot knowing who the operator actually is. Well in fact I do know who this operator is, but he continues to tell me lies, saying that he has not organised the 7 Sherpas that are currently with Jing, although they all come from his company. Even after repeated phone calls he still does not come to the Ministry to take on the responsibility of the Sherpa's insurance and other such matters. In the meanwhile the Ministry says that they will punish my company, quite a large fine and probably banned from coming to Nepal for 5 years. It is only in the past few hours that I have now been cleared of the responsibility for Jing and her phantom operator.

  So for members who might think that I have carried on with my expedition, please know that this is the exact opposite, these actions of others has caused me considerable pain and hard work to clear my company name in the past few days.


  Article in the Himalayan Times

  Kathmandu: A high-level committee formed by the Civil Aviation Authority of Nepal has recommended the government to come up with a strict rule to ban rampant use of helicopters above Mt. Everest Base Camp, urging the authorities to permit such flights only for rescue missions.

  The committee that studied the flights made by different companies from April 18 to May 31 above the Base Camp also suggested that CAAN's permission should be made mandatory to conduct flights for other purposes in the region.

  A three-member committee led by senior pilot Gunj Man Lama was formed on May 28 after Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation ordered CAAN to probe rampant use of choppers in the Everest region as revealed by this daily.

  The panel found that Fishtail Air conducted number of flights above the Base Camp on May 8,10,14,18,25, while Simrik Air operated 9N-AKF on April 26 for sorties to the higher camps. "These routine flights were conducted as per the Air Operator Certificate issued by CAAN," the report said. An AOC authorises an operator to carry out specified commercial air transport operations.

  "CAAN forwarded its probe report to the ministry for further action two days ago," Director General Ratish Chandra Lal Suman told THT. Contrary to Suman's claims, ministry's aviation industry division chief Suresh Acharya said his office had not received the study report till this evening. "Ministry will take necessary action after getting CAAN's report"

  The chopper used kicked up a row after Chinese climber Wang Jing flew to C2 from the Base Camp along with seven Sherpas, during her ascent to Mt. Everest this spring.

  Wang had chartered more than a dozen flights. Most of them with call sign 9N-AJI were piloted by Italian national Maurizio Folini starting May 10, bypassing the most treacherous icefall route during her summit. American climber Cleo Weidlich also flew to C1 from Gorak Shep on May 8 but later abandoned her bid to scale Mt. Lhotse.

  Wang is planning to visit Nepal by the end of this month to collect her certificate. Mountaineering fraternity, including expedition operators, stand united against Wang, saying she flouted climbing norms and ethics to degrade Everest popularity. But MoTCA Joint Secretary Madhusadan Burakoti said she had the right to obtain summit certificate.

  Wang, who initially tried to hide information on helicopter ride, later owned up to it, claiming she was left with no other option to reach C2.

  CAAN's aviation safety department officials, however, hinted that action against helicopter companies was unlikely due to lack of specific laws.

  The report recommended that to ensure action there had to be a rule to allow only rescue flights above the Base Camp.

  Notes from E. Hawley:

  One of two ladies who decided to ignore a ban called by Sherpas on all climbing on Everest and Lhotse after a disastrous avalanche that killed 26 Sherpas in the Icefall, was Mrs. Jing Wang, a 39-year-old successful businesswoman from Beijing and a member of the Himalayan Experience South Col expedition led by Russell Brice. He cancelled the climbing program because of the Sherpas threats of bodily harm. But Mrs. Wang was nearing the conclusion of her "9+2 Project" with the goal of scaling the highest points on the world's seven continents plus the two also rans, Kosciusko and Mont Blanc, plus "trekking to the tips of both Poles."

  She had just two mountains to climb, Everest and Denali/McKinley. She was determined to climb Everest now. She applied for permission to climb from the Tibetan side, but the Chinese authorities turned her down, "in order to guarantee the safety of climbers, they are not going to permit any individual to climb Everest from the northern slope this year," she was told. But, she explained, "I really didn't want to just give it up so close to finish, so I tried one more time on the south side."

  When Russell Brice said it was not possible to go back to base camp and continue to climb, she "found friends in Nepal and asked him to help me plan it out... My Sherpas and I considered the question of safety in full magnitude... The organizer and the Sherpas assured me they would make sure there's no conflict between the Sherpas, and I won't need to worry about this. My English is not that good, so pretty much everything off the mountain was taken care of by my Nepalese friends. I trust them completely." Her newfound friend, the organizer, was Phurba Gyalzen, the boss of a minor trekking agency, Himalayan Adventure Trekking, whose directorship on the official Nepal Tourism Board no doubt helped to keep her ascent free of any trouble.

  That ascent, in her telling, went without a hitch. She arrived at a base camp on 7 May after an acclimatization climb with Brice's team on a nearby mountain. On 10 May she flew to her Camp 2 in the Western Cwm. On the 16th she slept in her Camp 3 one night and then descended to the lower camp; she returned to C3 on the 21st for a one night stay before climbing up to her highest camp, C4 on the South Col. Here she rested until midnight while four of her Sherpas went ahead to fix the route.

  On the morning of her summit day, 23 May, she used her satellite phone to check the weather forecast, which was that "the 23rd was a good day and the morning of the 24th also has good weather." So at about 6:00 am that day, she and her fifth Sherpa set out for the top. Twelve and a half hours later, according to her account, Mrs Jing Wang from Beijing and three Sherpas from Nepal stood at the summit of Everest.

  In dramatic contrast with normal times, they were all alone. Where they should have been hundreds of climbers up and down the mountain, not a soul was to be found between base camp and the summit except for the other defiant lady, Cleo Weidlich from California with her one Sherpa aiming for the summit of Lhotse.

  Mrs. Wang had needed only thirteen days to go from base camp to the summit. She had the help of five experienced Sherpas; they used ropes fixed by the others in an earlier season from the west face of Lhotse to the South Col and to "the area around" the South Summit, where her men put in new rope.

  Their being all alone she found "drastically different from the previous two experiences" when she had climbed in Nepal. "Because there were no footprints left from previous climbers, this increased the difficulty exponentially. There were more exposed boulders along the way; especially from C2 (in the Cwm) you can see a big difference; many parts of the path you can actually see stones whereas in previous years it was completely covered in snow; on (the west face of) Lhotse (on the route to Everest) it was nearly all ice, very difficult for climbing.

  Since "the climb was incredibly difficult," she and her Sherpas went on oxygen around C3 at 7400m on the Lhotse face and continued to use it in their descent to somewhere near the bottom of the face.

  Mrs. Wang wasted no time in her departure from Everest. She descended from the summit to her South Col camp at 11:00 pm on 23 May. By noon on the 24th, the entire team was down in camp 2 in the Cwm, and by the morning of the 25th all of the team and their baggage were in base camp. Mrs. Wang flew back to Kathmandu in the afternoon of the 26th and left Nepal for Alaska and her last mountain that same evening.

  After summiting Denali in Alaska she returned to Kathmandu briefly to attend a special congratulatory ceremony at Hotel Annapurna, Kathmandu, on 30 June, at which Mrs. Wang was honored as International Mountaineer of the Year 2014 by Gontabya Nepal Publications, Kamaladi. This despite the fact that the year was only half over. A statuette and framed letter of appreciation were presented to her by a leader of the UCPN (Maoist) party, Posta Bahadur Bogati.

  The letter of appreciation read: "Gontabya Nepal takes a great pride in honouring you with this title as 'International Mountaineer of the Year 2014' for your grand success in summiting Mt. Everest alone [ignoring the Sherpas who summited with her] in the spring 2014 and also for completing successful ascent of all seven Himalayan peaks of seven continents in the shortest possible time frame. Your grand achievement of historic climbing of Mt. Everest played an essential and remarkable role in the promoting of Nepalese mountaineering tourism industry a round the globe.

  This organization highly values your phenomenal contribution and so felcitates you for your entire noble and awe-inspiring endeavour."

  Mrs. Wang was also felicitated at another function on the same day in Kathmandu at the Yak and Yeti Hotel organized by Mahendra Jyoti Students Forum (Mahendra Jyoti is a school in Chaurikharka, Solu) and Pharak Sherpas' Club (Pharak is a village in Solu) at which the speaker of the Constituent Assembly presented her with a framed laudatory letter.

  Contrary to news items published after her summit success, she did not receive any special award from the Nepalese government. Her Sherpas received on her behalf the standard official certificate provided to all summiters, by which the tourism ministry accepted the legitimacy of her successful climb.

  However the Civil Aviation Authority of Nepal was reported to be investigating her chartered helicopter flights to carry her, her Sherpas and her baggage from BC up to C2, and later back from C2 to BC, whereas it is understood that choppers are supposed to fly above BC only on rescue missions. There were claims that more than a dozen flights were operated for her; she acknowledged a total of two for herself.

  Sherpa summiters:
    Lhakpa Geljen Sherpa, 24/1/92, Pangkoma, Jubing-9, Solu
    Pasang Dawa Sherpa, 25/5/84, Tate, Chaurikharka-7, Solu
    Riten Jangbu Sherpa (aka Tashi), 6/5/83, Ghorthali-2, Sindupalchowk


