# exped

expid: EVER15132
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Jamling Bhote
sponsor: Ever Quest International Everest Expedition 2015
countries: Belgium, Norway, Singapore
bcdate: 2015-04-04
smtdate: 2015-05-13
termdate: 2015-05-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to earthquake
othersmts: Summited Lobuche East
campsites: BC(04/04,5350m),xxx.Mbrs(14/04,6000m),xxx.Shrpas(13/04,6500m)
agency: Ever Quest Expeditions
routememo:
  First to arrive at BC were Francois from Belgium and the climbing Sherpas, who reached BC on 4 April, in good time to get a head start and to pitch their camp where they wanted it, not far from the Icefall. But they had to wait for their baggage to turn up: it was delayed by bad weather. The four Singaporeans reached BC on the 9th of April and the Malaysians [on same team/permit] came the following day.

  Before tackling Everest, four Singaporeans, their Belgian teammate, and five Sherpas including the team's leader Jamling climbed to the summit of Lobuche East on 13 April. Then on the 14th, the whole team ventured into the Khumbu Icefall. The Four Singaporeans and the Belgian got as far as 100 meters below C1, which was at the top of the Icefall at about 6000m. Two Malaysians [Ishak and Mahamad Yusoff], climbing very slowly, reached 200 meters lower than the Singaporeans (see EVER-151-44). All slept in BC that night. Meanwhile nine load-carrying Sherpas had dumped loads as high as C2 (6500m) on the previous day.

  For more acclimatization, on 18th the team climbed on the lower reaches of Pumori, and three days later they were on Kalapattar, then returned to BC that day. Now they had to wait at BC on the 22nd and 23rd because of snowfall. They spent the 24th packing for their ascent to C1 next day.

  They never got there: a devastating earthquake struck the area on the 25th. This team's BC camp was close enough to the bottom of the Icefall to be spared fatal damage by the tremor, but the camps lower than it was gravely hit. Jamling's teams waited for the shaking to subside and to learn what would happen next. On 30 April they decided there would be no more climbing; they cancelled their plan to attempt Everest. Most of the members left BC the next day by helicopter to Lukla and fixed wing to Kathmandu. Jamling flew by helicopter to Kathmandu on the 5th.


expid: EVER15161
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Ma Li-Yamu
sponsor: First Chinese Women's Everest Expedition 2015
countries: Australia
bcdate: 2015-04-16
smtdate: 2015-04-16
termdate: 2015-04-26
termnote: Abandoned at 5350m due to earthquake
campsites: BC(16,19/04,5900m),xxx
accidents: Earthquake killed 1 Sherpa and 1 Australian member in BC
agency: Dreamers Destination Treks
routememo:
  Members planned to go up to C1 on 25 April, but the fatal earthquake that day stopped them. Members did no go above BC. They  flew by helicopter on 26th from BC to Pheriche to trek down to Lukla and fly to Kathmandu.

  Ma, Han and Tsang held permits for both Everest and Lhotse.


expid: EVER15107
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Kari Kobler
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Everest Expedition 2015
countries: Australia, Austria, Germany, UK
approach: Lhasa->Shigatse->Tingri
bcdate: 2015-04-15
smtdate: 2015-04-22
termdate: 2015-04-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to earthquake in Nepal
campsites: BC(15/04,5200m),ABC(22/04,6400m),xxx(22/04,6400m)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  BC  15/04  5200m
  ABC 22/04  6400m
  HPt 22/04  6400m at ABC by all team members.

  The team and most Sherpas were at ABC when the earthquake struck. Nobody got hurt or injured. Two Sherpas were at C3 at 8300m; however, they were unharmed and descended to ABC on 26 April.


expid: EVER15117
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Arnold Coster
sponsor: Arnold Coster Expeditions Everest 2015
countries: Mauritius, Sweden
approach: Pangboche->Pheriche->Lobuje East
bcdate: 2015-04-20
smtdate: 2015-04-25
termdate: 2015-04-27
termnote: Abandoned at 5600m due to earthquake
campsites: BC(20/04,5350m),xxx(25/04,5600m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  20/04  5350m
  HPt 25/04  5600m by all Coster, Arnold and Van den Berg.

  Team was at BC when the earthquake happened.

  Coster: "Big shake, hard to stand up. Worried for avalanche from the Lho La because our camp was close to that. Then turned around and saw this huge snow cloud heading towards us from Pumori side. Luckily by the time it hit our camp the 'force' was gone and it was just wind and dust."

  Arnold Coster, Eric Arnold and Mark Van den Berg rescued two Sherpas from the Icefall at around 5600m. They got buried to their waist while they were travelling the Icefall when the avalanche hit. Both Sherpas only had minor injuries.

  Rest of the team and Sherpas did not get higher than BC.


expid: EVER15136
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Ravindra Kumar
sponsor: First All India Services Everest Expedition 2015
approach: Pangboche->Pheriche
bcdate: 2015-04-15
smtdate: 2015-04-22
termdate: 2015-04-25
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to avalanche
campsites: BC(15/04,5350m),xxx.Mbrs(22/04,5800m),xxx.Shrpas(20/04,6400m)
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  BC  15/04  5350m
  HPt 22/04  5800m by all members 
      20/04  6400m (load carry by 5? Sherpas to C2).

  Team was at BC when the avalanche occurred.


expid: EVER15113
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Melanie Southworth
sponsor: Mel's Barking Mad Everest Expedition
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2015-04-26
smtdate: 2015-04-26
termdate: 2015-05-03
termnote: Abandoned at 5350m due to avalanche triggered by earthquake
campsites: BC(26/04,5350m),xxx(26/04,5350m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Southworth was in Lobuche on her way to Everest BC when the earthquake happened. As she did not know what was going to happen, she carried on to BC and reached it on 26 April. She stayed there until 3 May and helped with cleaning up.


expid: EVER15121
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Jacob Schmitz
sponsor: Mountain Trip Everest Expedition 2015
approach: Pangboche
bcdate: 2015-04-14
smtdate: 2015-04-20
termdate: 2015-05-07
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to earthquake
campsites: BC(14/04,5350m),xxx.Mbrs(23/04,5650m),xxx.Shrpas(20/04,6400m)
agency: Expedition Himalaya
routememo:
  BC  14/04  5350m
  HPt 23/04  5650m by Schmitz and Holder
      20/04  6400m by Sherpas.

  Schmitz and Holder reached their high point in the Icefall during an acclimatization climb. When the earthquake occurred Schmitz was in his tent and Holder had flown to Lukla on 24 April as he had not been feeling well and tried to recover there. Holder never came back to BC and Schmitz spent 13 days at BC after the quake to clean up and take down his camp.


expid: EVER15108
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Dominik Mueller
sponsor: Amical Alpin Everest North Expedition 2105
countries: Austria
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2015-04-15
smtdate: 2015-04-21
termdate: 2015-05-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to earthquake in Nepal
campsites: BC(15/04,5200m),IC(22/04,6000m),xxx.Shrpas(21/04,6400m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  15/04  5200m
  HPt 22/04  6000m at middle camp by all members.
  HPt 21/04  6400m at ABC (by Sherpas).

  Team stayed one night at middle camp at 6000m and descended back to CBC. They were at CBC when the earthquake hit. The five Sherpas were at ABC during the earthquake.  When the Chinese government decided to cancel all expeditions in Tibet, they abandoned the expedition. All members left CBC on 29 April; Mueller stayed until 1 May to make sure his Sherpas got down and his gear was back at CBC. He left CBC on 1 May. Everyone went back to Lhasa, from where they flew back to their home countries.


expid: LHOT15106
peakid: LHOT
year: 2015
route1: W Face
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice, David McKinley
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Lhotse Expedition 2014
countries: Poland
bcdate: 2015-04-10
smtdate: 2015-04-19
termdate: 2015-05-06
termnote: Abandoned at 5000m due to avalanche triggered by earthquake
othersmts: Summited Lobuche East by all members
campsites: BC(10/04,5350m),xxx(19/04,5000m)
agency: Mountain Experience
primid: EVER15123
routememo:
  The Everest and Lhotse expeditions were early arrivals at BC: their camp was established on 10 April. The members went next to Lobuche East to acclimatize, and all summited it on 14 April. Then they returned to Everest BC on the 18th.

  The next day one Everest member, Julian Mountain, ventured into the Icefall as far as the "football field" at about 5500m. Meanwhile their Sherpas moved up to C1 to dump loads and descended to BC from the 12th to the 19th.

  But there was no significant movement any higher of these members or Sherpas on Everest or Lhotse. The earthquake hit the area of the 25th of April. The "Icefall doctors," the Sherpas who install the fixed ropes up to C2, fled and climbing came to an abrupt halt.

  The Himalayan Experience climbers were evacuated from C1 and BC on 6 May in an orientation that began with the Himalayan Experience Makalu team's evacuation from Hillary BC by helicopters that then picked up the Khumbu teams and flew all of them to Kathmandu.

  High-altitude workers for Lhotse are listed with the Everest expedition.


expid: LHOT15107
peakid: LHOT
year: 2015
route1: W Face
nation: Singapore
leaders: Swee Chiow Khoo
sponsor: Singaporean Lhotse Expedition 2015
termnote: Abandoned before BC due to earthquake
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Khoo was on his way to BC when the earthquake hit. He immediately abandoned the expedition and never reached BC.


expid: MAKA15106
peakid: MAKA
year: 2015
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice, Bruce Hasler
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Makalu Expedition 2014
countries: Italy, USA
bcdate: 2015-04-17
smtdate: 2015-04-20
termdate: 2015-05-06
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to earthquake
campsites: BC(17/04,5500m),C1(20/04,6000m),xxx
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  The Himalayan Experience Everest and Lhotse climbers were evacuated from C1 and BC on 6 May in an orientation that began with the Himalayan Experience Makalu team's evacuation from Hillary BC by helicopters that then picked up the Khumbu teams and flew all of them to Kathmandu.


expid: MAKA15107
peakid: MAKA
year: 2015
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Belgium
leaders: Jean-Luc Fohal
sponsor: Belgian Makalu Expedition 2015
approach: Tumlingtar->Num->BC
bcdate: 2015-04-15
smtdate: 2015-04-24
termdate: 2015-05-02
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to earthquake
campsites: BC(15/04,4900m),ABC(18/04,5700m),C2(23/04,6300m),xxx(24/04,6600m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Lenaerts and Maginelle climbed to touch C2 on 24 April and returned to C1 for the night. They descended to ABC before the earthquake hit on 25 April. The entire team was at ABC when the earthquake happened.

  After discussing the situation with the rest of the teams on Makalu, the team decided to abandon the expedition. On 30 April they climbed to C1 to retrieve their material.

  Fohal, Verschraegen, Wolput and Bollaert reached C1 on 24 April.


expid: MANA14401
peakid: MANA
year: 2014
route1: NE Face (up), E Pinnacle (down)
nation: Italy
leaders: Simone Moro
sponsor: Manaslu Winter Exploration 2015
bcdate: 2015-02-11
smtdate: 2015-02-14
termdate: 2015-04-07
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to deep snow and avalanche danger
campsites: B(17/02,4700m),C1(23/02,5700m),xxx(24/02,5700m)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  The two-member team arrived at their Manaslu base camp (4700m) by helicopter from Kathmandu on 17 February with no climbing Sherpas and no bottled oxygen, but equiped with snowshoes for a winter climb. They planned to ascend the normal route by the NE Face to the main summit (8163m) and then descend by an unprecendented traverse over to the top of the East Pinnacle (7992m) and down to BC.

  However, they soon found their plans impossible to carry out. They were well acclimatized from recent climbing in Europe, but they had to struggle to break trail. It was necessary to wear snowshoes as they attempted to open their trail through six meters of deep snow on 18 to 22 February. Finally on the 23rd they managed to establish C1 at 5700m.

  On the 24th they went as high as 5900m to make a reconnaissance of their route above C1. But even more snowfall was predicted, so they turned around and went back to BC the same day. On the 25th they returned to C1 only to clear the camp.

  The predicted snow started falling on the 26th of February, and it continued falling 24 hours a day every day to 4 March. The heavy snowfall caused avalanches that fell close enough to BC that its tents were covered by powder snow clouds from the blast of the avalanching throughout the seven-day period.

  During this time, they prepared a helipad, stamping down the loose snow with their snowshoes. At 11:00 am on the 4th of March their helicopter hovered, but visibility was too poor to land. The two climbers retreated to the village of Samagaon, not far from BC and waited there until 5:30 pm, then spent the night in a lodge in Samagaon after taking the helicopter's battery into their tent to keep it warm enough to start then next morning. It started and the climbers flew in it to Kathmandu on 4 March. Their plans for a winter ascent of Manaslu had collapsed, but they had not given up hope of climbing the mountain.

  Next, they flew to Khumbu on 9 March, when they found a helicopter going to Dingboche. They kept their acclimatization by trekking to Chhukung and based themselves there. They kept fit by running up some nearby peaks, including Chhukung Ri (5550m) on 20 March.

  On the 25th they raced from the lodge to the summit of Island Peak (Imjatse, 6183m) and back to the lodge in ten and a half hours by the normal route of this frequently climbed mountain. Three days later they pioneered a new route by moving to up its East Summit in 11 hours, 50 minutes via the NNW Face to the West Ridge and then retraced their steps to the lodge. They left Khumbu by flying from Namche Bazar via Lukla to Kathmandu on 31 March.

  They now returned their attention to Manaslu and on 4 April flew to the helipad they had made in early April, hoping to scale the 8163m high Manaslu at last. But they found their tent had been destroyed by heavy snowfall, rather than finding, as they had hoped, improved conditions. They stayed in a new small tent for three days to rest and worked to restore their BC. They moved on snowshoes up to 5700m and the site of their C1, which they had pitched in late February.

  But on 7 April, after probing a meter and a half deep snow for an hour and finding no trace of their C1 tent, and witnessing avalanching that was more serious than it had been before, and one of Moro's snowshoes having broken, they abandoned Manaslu and chartered a helicopter back to Kathmandu.


expid: MANA15102
peakid: MANA
year: 2015
route1: NE Face/North Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Peter Gschwendtner
sponsor: Manaslu Spring 2015
countries: Switzerland
approach: Samagaon
bcdate: 2015-04-24
smtdate: 2015-04-25
termdate: 2015-04-28
termnote: Abandoned at 5650m due to earthquake
campsites: BC(24/04,4850m),xxx(25/04,5650m)
agency: Multi Adventure
routememo:
  BC  24/04  4850m
  HPt 25/04  5650m by Volken and Gschwendtner.

  We started from Kathmandu to Arughat by bus, from there to Samagaon we had 16 mules to carry our gear and stayed some days more in Samagaon because a lot of snow and dangers of avalanche on the way to basecamp.

  Kilian Volken and I were the first to go up to Manaslu BC and we found the camp from the Italian climber Simone Moro, who tried to do a winter ascent of Manaslu.  We descended to Samagaon the same day.

  We went back to BC on 24 April and on 25 April we were intending to go to C1. The walk was easy and the conditions are very well. At about 5650m Volken wanted to stop as it was foggy and we could not see so much. We prepared a depot camp to leave some equipment there. We were just about to go down when we heard a big avalanche and rocks falling. We ran for cover and managed to dodge the avalanche.

  After a while they spoke to a French team by radio and realized that it was an earthquake. They descended to BC the same day.


expid: AMAD15103
peakid: AMAD
year: 2015
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Czech Republic
leaders: Petr Skopek
sponsor: Snowy Horizon International Ama Dablam Expedition 2015 (Group A)
countries: Canada, Denmark, Finland, Iran, Japan, Poland, Russia, USA
bcdate: 2015-04-15
smtdate: 2015-04-25
termdate: 2015-04-27
termnote: Abandoned due to earthquake
campsites: BC(15/04,4700m),C2(5700m),C2(6000m),xxx
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  Snowy Horizon International Ama Dablam Expedition (Group A) was a collection of small teams on one Snowy Horizon permit. They arrived at base camp around 15 April and made progress up to about C2 at 6000m when the earthquake occurred on 25 April. None continued after that.


expid: ANN115102
peakid: ANN1
year: 2015
route1: N Face
nation: Canada
leaders: Al Hancock
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Annapurna I 2015
countries: China, Japan, Spain
approach: Kathmandu to BC by helicopter
bcdate: 2015-03-28
smtdate: 2015-04-23
termdate: 2015-05-02
termnote: Abandoned at 7900m due to bad weather and subsequent earthquake
campsites: BC(28/03,4270m),C1(01/04,5200m),C2(02/04,5800m),C3(21/04,6500m),C4(22/04,6750m),xxx(23/04,7900m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  28/03  4270m
  C1  01/04  5200m
  C2  02/04  5800m
  C3  21/04  6500m
  C4  22/04  6750m
  HPt 23/04  7900m by Hancock and Watanabe [et al.?].

  Hancock together with Jangbu Sherpa [and with Chris Burke and Lakpa Sherpa] was on his summit attempt on 23 April; however, bad weather forced them to turn back. During their descent they were involved in a rescue mission. 

  A Spanish climber [Inigo Castineyra] had got into trouble at C4. They helped him down to C3 where they stayed the night. The following day the Spanish climber was long-lined by helicopter from C3 to BC and from there to Kathmandu. He had both of his hands frostbitten.

  Watanabe and her Sherpa were on their summit attempt on 23 April, however, bad weather forced them to turn back.

  Hancock and Watanabe were at Annapurna BC when the earthquake hit. They could feel it, but there were no injuries.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C4 to high point to C4 by Hancock and Watanabe.


expid: ANN115108
peakid: ANN1
year: 2015
route1: N Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Mi-Gon
sponsor: Dream & Challenge Annapurna I Expedition 2015
countries: India
approach: Heli to Tatopani and 4 days trek to BC
bcdate: 2015-03-27
smtdate: 2015-04-11
termdate: 2015-04-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to earthquake
campsites: BC(27/03,4130m),C1(03/04,5060m),C2(10/04,5600m),xxx(11/04,6600m)
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal
routememo:
  BC  27/03  4200m 
  C1  03/04  5000m
  C2  10/04  5600m
  C3  11/04  6600m (no sleep)
  HPt 11/04  by all Korean members and Sherpas.

  Climb abandoned on 25 April due to earthquake and avalanches.

  The team was waiting for summit push after putting up C2. The earthquake occurred on 25 April and they gave up the climbing. There were many avalanches and landslides.

  Team left BC on 27 April.

  Fixed rope: 600m


  From Dipankar Ghosh blog:
   http://dipankarghosh.info/expedition-stories/410775/mt-annapurna-i-expedition-2015

  Mt. Annapurna-I Expedition, 2015

  Run, run, run. Suddenly, Kim and Zeen took to their heels. They jumped over the rocks, dodged the trees - synergizing the hooting sound they expelled from their lungs while they climbed up and whooshed down the uneven trail. We laughed heartily as a village boy looked at the running duo with gaping mouth and purest form of surprise written all over his face. We had settled at the outskirt of a village called Swata having decided to have our lunch in picnic style. All of us were busy peeling potatoes as it was only mashed potato in the menu and Kim and Zeen were running and chasing each other perhaps to increase their appetite. 

  Frankly speaking, I was enjoying this five day tension free, hassle free trek to Tatopani. Our path meandered through the dense forest of Pine and Christmas trees bordered by rhododendron and magnolia which bloomed in full thrust at this time of the year. Last year, during the Kanchenjunga expedition I had met this Korean pair Kim and Yum. Since then we had developed strong bond of likings towards each other. This year, we decided to embark on a joint expedition.
   
  After Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and Kanchenjunga, this time I went to Nepal eyeing the World’s 10th highest peak, Mount Annapurna – I (8091m). Ours was an Indo-Korean team that comprised of four climbers from Korea. I was the only one representing India. On 19th of March, 2015 the members of the two countries gathered at Thamel. Here we did our shopping and completed our packing. We hired a small car and travelled across Pokhra to reach Nayapull. 

  From Nayapull we boarded another car which dropped us at the border of Ghandruk from where an hour’s uphill march took us to Ghandruk. Mountain lovers adore this village. From here the base camp of Annapurna south could be reached along a trail. However, our destination was Tatopani. Annapurna south stood majestically before us. 

  The path from Lete that would take us to the base camp was laden with snow and the local people were reluctant to wet their feet. I couldn’t blame them. Anyway, our agency failed to arrange for low altitude porters and decided to shift our luggage by helicopter - the only alternative left. 

  However, reaching Annapurna north base camp from Tatopani meant an ascent of 4200m at one go and we were apprehensive that it might cause high altitude sickness. Therefore, we decided to trek to Tatopani. As we slowly marched uphill crunching snow under our feet nobody regretted the five day long journey. When we reached Bailley we had a magnificent view of peak Dhaulagiri. On 26th we reached Tatopani beside Kaligondoki River. Sanu our Sherpa Sardar and his team also arrived with a truck load of stores. Excluding our personal rucksacks the load weighed 1980 kg. The helicopter had to make five trips to shift the entire load. 

  On 28th, at the foot of Mt. Annapurna-I and on a huge ground our base camp was established. We had a hard time sifting the huge volume of load. The base camp was located at the north side of Mt. Annapurna-I and we had a splendid view of the peak from here. 

  Almost one month prior to us three teams were labouring on the peak. During summit approach of one of these teams - three days back - Samuli of Finland and a Sherpa had lost their lives. During Makalu and Kanchenjunga expedition I had spent some good time with Samuli. He was a good climber. Thrice a helicopter was sent to recover their bodies. At 7200m their bodies could be traced but due to difficult terrain their bodies could not be recovered. I was really sad. 

  On the 31st amidst bad weather the base camp puja was performed. Later, we had snowfall. One day’s snowfall changed the entire feature of the base camp. The cold was bitter. To beat the cold Kim had had an ingenious idea. They had brought huge tents from their homeland. We put our dome tents inside one such big tent. Amazingly, it gave us all the warmth of a luxurious hotel suite. 

  On 1st of April, we set out for camp-I to ferry load. After a march half an hour we reached a place where the climbers used to establish their base camp in the past. But, few years back a devastating avalanche caused few deaths and since then the place had been declared unsuitable as a campsite. We noticed a cenotaph built in the memory of those unfortunate climbers. We prayed for their souls to the Almighty and moved on. 

  To reach camp-I one had to descend on the Annapurna north glacier. Then one had to cross the ice field and ascend along a rock buttress. Here and there, avalanches are frequent. We climbed few steep gradients. We were lucky to discover old ropes which certainly added to our advantage. On reaching the top of the rock buttress we further climbed an ice slope to a height of 5060m. We had to scoop up and clear snow to pitch our tents. That day we descended to base camp. 

  While descending, we thought that we were doomed. There were avalanches on both sides of our path and we had to move very watchfully. In the evening, we had strong winds at the base camp. It was very bad weather, indeed. 

  I was getting used to eating all types of food in the company of the Koreans. Larva of Butterfly, Kimchi made up our daily menu. Even dried octopus found place in our snacks! After resting one day at the base camp, on 3rd we went up to Camp-I. From Camp-I we had a magnificent view of Mt. Annapurna-I. Though the weather was bad after the noon - it improved in the evening. However, we had strong wind velocity that untiringly swept the camp, moaning and wailing and making our life miserable. 

  On 4th of April, 2015, at the break of the dawn we set off for Camp-II. The climb was interesting. We had to cross a ice field. We climbed few steep gradients. The distance between Camp-I and Camp-II was comparatively small. We dumped our load on a forty degree slope at an altitude of 5600 meter and amidst bad weather returned to the base camp. 

  Very next day, a dreadful avalanche washed away our tents from camp-I which were packed with climbing boots, crampons, sleeping bags, down jackets and many more essential equipment. Sanu and his team returned. They had traced few equipment but could not recover any. Next day we carried on with the search operation. From faraway places and risky zones we could recover many equipment but still many could not be found. However, the members of other teams extended helping hand and the loss of our equipments could be complemented for. We were really grateful to them. 

  Sometimes, we played golf. I don’t know whether we set new records of playing golf at high altitudes but we enjoyed the sport niftily tailored to suit our needs. The weather was not conducive–either snow fell or wind blew strongly. This year the weather was not favoring us. 

  On 10th we went up to Camp-II. At 5600m, we pitched our tents on an ice slope where we dumped our loads. 

  Generally for better acclimatization, the climbers spend one night at Camp-II and return. A stretch between Camp-II and Camp-III was avalanche prone and generally every climber wanted to cross it only once. However, this was Lee and Zeen’s first expedition. That is why Kim thought it was necessary for them to do some initial altitude gain.

  Consequently, on the following day they accompanied Sanu while ferrying load to Camp-III. It was a windy day. The route to Camp-III was quite long. At 6500m height Sanu (our Sherpa sardar) and other sherpas had dumped our load. On the same day we returned to base camp. The process of acclimatization ended. 

  Now, we rested, feed ourselves and waited for favourable weather window to open. After eleven days, on 22nd, our sherpas went up to Camp-III to ferry loads for one more time. On reaching Camp-II they found that our tents had crushed under the snow. Enroute they fell in front of an avalanche. They escaped with minor injuries. 
  On 23rd, weather was not so good; few climbers of another team and their Sherpas launched a summit attempt. We spent anxious moments at the base Camp for them. On 24th, one Spanish member of that team fell seriously ill. A helicopter was sent for his rescue. After two unsuccessful attempts, the pilot could rescue him. 

  On 25th, a violent tremor shook the mountains. We were inside our tents when the earthquake began. It was avalanches everywhere. We dashed out of our tents and ran straight across the field on the opposite end. There, we perched ourselves on a mound and waited for the quake to subside. There was a steep slope overlooking our tents and we feared avalanches would roll down from there any moment and crush our tents. It was our good fortune that nothing of the sort happened. 

  Next day, we again felt a jolt. Whether it was an aftershock or not, it was quite strong. Later we learned that the quake on the second day measured 6.6 in the Richter scale whereas the first one had been recorded at 7.9. 

  Reports of huge damage and deaths in Nepal began to flood in. I was thinking if we could stand beside the people of Nepal in these bad hours. Our training and our gears may come handy in the relief work. I had been trained for search and rescue course from NIM(India) and I thought it was one chance where my training could be of some use. Above all, mountaineer or no mountaineer it is one’s duty to rush to the help of poor suffering people. Kim too was thinking on the same lines. We deliberated and decided in the team meeting that we would go down as fast as possible–and try to be of some help to the quake affected people of Nepal. It was more important to hold their hands than touching the summit of Mt. Annapurna. We learned that American team leaded by Don too had decided to descend. 

  We started descending. We descended four days route in one day and rushed to the nearest village. It was a horrific picture of destructions everywhere. Buildings collapsed, people houseless –the merciless paws of nature had spread mayhem. We tried our best to help the villagers. They were in miserable state – their belongings trapped under the debris. We tried to make them temporary shelters and recover few of their properties that were trapped under the wreckage. 

  It was an altogether different experience for all of us. We were not sorry that we had allowed the peak to go from our hand. We had opened the route to camp-III. Rather, it gave us more joy to think that we could stand beside the people of Nepal when they required it most. We were happy to touch their hearts and earn their blessings. With a belief that I would certainly get a chance to get back to the peak if the Providence has it in store for me. 

  I returned to my homeland on 12th May.


expid: ANN115106
peakid: ANN1
year: 2015
route1: N Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Carlos Soria
sponsor: Carlos Soria-BBVA Annapurna I Expedition 2015
approach: By helicopter from Kathamandu via Samagaon
bcdate: 2015-03-10
campsites: BC(10/03,4200m),C1(19/03,5200m),C2(21/03,5500m),C3(6500m),xxx
agency: Thamserku Trekking
termnote:
  Abandoned at 6500m due to bad weather, deep snow and loss of equipment (decision made prior to earthquake)

routememo:
  Excerpted from Carlos Soria website:

  23 March

  Team established C1 (5200m) and C2 (5500m), then retreated to base camp to rest. Other teams continued on toward the summit, but the Soria team felt that the pace was too fast for them.

  01 April

  Soria team went back up to C1 on 25 March hoping for a summit bid on 29 March. After the reported deaths of Mansikka and Pemba Sherpa, the team returned to base camp on 26 March.

  27 April

  Soria team abandoned the expedition due to bad weather and deteriorating snow conditions, continous avalanching and loss of equipment stored at C2 (6500m). They made two brief summit attempts during April, but only reached 5500m.


expid: ANN115105
peakid: ANN1
year: 2015
route1: N Face
nation: Norway
leaders: Tore Sunde-Rasmussen
sponsor: Ascent Himalayas Norwegian Annapurna I Expedition 2015
smtdate: 2015-03-26
termnote: Abandoned at 5600m due to medical issues
campsites: BC,C1,C2(26/03,5600m),xxx
agency: Ascent Himalayas
routememo:
  From Alitude Pakistan blogspot:

  Norwegian climber Tore-Sunde Rasmussen was in C2 on March 26th, but had to abandon the Annapurna expedition due to medical reasons, although not related to altitude. He was back in Kathmandu by March 29th.


expid: BARU15101
peakid: BARU
year: 2015
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Ian Hibbert
sponsor: Monterosa Baruntse Expedition 2015
countries: Croatia, USA
termnote: Abandoned before BC due to earthquake
agency: Monterosa Treks
routememo:
  Morton and Griffith decided at Lukla to abandon expedition before earthquake due to expected amount of snow on Baruntse.

  Hibbert and Bockovac were near Mera La on approach when the earthquake occurred. They also decided at that point to abandon the expedition.


expid: BHRI15101
peakid: BHRI
year: 2015
route1: NW side
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
sponsor: Paulo Bhrikuti Expedition 2015
termnote: Not attempted due to icy conditions
othersmts: Summited Futi Himal (6425m) and unnamed 6655m peak NW of Khumjung Himal
campsites: BC(12/10,6150m),xxx
agency: Yeti Adventure
routememo:
  Team did not attempt Bhrikuti due to icy conditions. Instead the team summited Futi Himal (6425m) and an unnamed 6655m peak NW of Khumjung Himal. 


expid: DHA115102
peakid: DHA1
year: 2015
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Carlos Soria
sponsor: Carlos Soria-BBVA Dhaulagiri I Expedition 2015
termnote: Did not attempt (abandoned after Annapurna I attempt)
othersmts: Attempted Annapurna I (ANN1-151-06)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
primid: ANN115106
routememo:
  Carlos Soria did not go to Dhaulagiri. They abandoned all climbing while on Annapurna due to bad weather and subsequent earthquake.


expid: DHA115103
peakid: DHA1
year: 2015
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Marco Confortola
sponsor: Italian Dhaulagiri Expedition 2015
termnote: Abandoned due to earthquake
campsites: BC(4750m),xxx(5200m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Confortola and Pasang only went part way towards C1 site, when they were avalanched on the way (est. 5200m). They returned to BC and were in BC when earthquake struck.


expid: EVER15142
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Norway
leaders: Inge Meloy
sponsor: Norwegian Everest Expedition 2015
bcdate: 2015-04-10
smtdate: 2015-04-25
termdate: 2015-04-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to earthquake
othersmts: Climbed Lobuche East
campsites: BC(10/04,5350m),C1,C2(25/04,6500m)
agency: Peaks of Nepal
routememo:
  Tranlated by Google from Norwegian blog:
    http://www.utemagasinet.no/Aktuelt/Vi-foeler-oss-heldige

  - We feel lucky
  - We celebrate life. We are on the rim of an extreme disaster, we feel wonderful lucky, says Inge Meloy. Utemagasinet did speak with the manager of Hvitserk Everest Expedition Tuesday afternoon.

  By: Erlend Sande Erlend Sande Wednesday 29 April 2015 kl.09: 56S

  Along with five Norwegian climbers and five of the expedition klatresherpaer, was Inge Meloy (39) caught at 6400 meters altitude when the earthquake in Nepal triggered a number of large avalanches on Mount Everest Saturday. Ruta down was swept away by landslides, and they did not know whether members of the expedition down the base camp had survived. When utemagasinet.no spoke with expedition leader yesterday afternoon, they were in the village of Namche Bazaar at 3400 meters altitude, after three intense days.

  - Now we have gone down, we have passed the dead people and damaged buildings. They sing, it perches, Nepali people bury their dead long the route we go. We are part of a major disaster, we wish there was more we could do. Our doctor has worked hard for those who were in the base camp. We provide all the assistance we can, which is less than what we wish, says the father of two, police officer and expedition leader.

  On Sunday Hvitserk Expedition brought down to base camp and a sight that made tremendous impression.

  - Our camp was in the middle of the base camp, which is one kilometer long. The part where we were completely gone. Erased, he says.

  What would you have done if you were in the camp when exceeded arrived?

  - We'd be somewhere and read, slumbered in tents. All our seven tents were gone. The equipment lay everywhere. I found Mac my 200 meters away from the camp. Had we been there ... because I dare not think of what had happened.

  In the base camp at 5300 meters was expedition physician Erling Rose Power. When he saw the earthquake, he realized that there was a risk of avalanches and managed to get in the top five of the expedition's Sherpas who had rest day in camp. All arrived in safety in a dump, but the one Sherpas lost three front teeth when he was hit by ice and rock. 20 people died in the landslide, but 73 injured were flown to hospital.

  - We are 19 undamaged less three incisors, says Meloy, who adds that the Norwegian expedition members have decided to splice the dental bill.

  Utemagasinet talks with Meloy on an unstable telephone line. On Wednesday morning he updated his Facebook profile for the first time after the earthquake. "Today, we celebrate life!", He concludes there. But still, the five Norwegian climbers, doctor Erling Rose Power and Meloy in a very unstable and unclear situation in the mountains in the disaster-hit Nepal. They live out on a football field and do not know when and how they are getting home. It is difficult to obtain food.

  "It breeds every day. We can not lower your shoulders. "

  Inge Meloy, head of Hvitserk Everest Expedition 2015

  - There are aftershocks every day. It goes soil and rock slides. It's hard to get something to eat. Everything is closed, no one dares to stay inside and cook. There are rocks as big as houses that scroll across the trail. But we're not in constant danger. Much is safe, but there is uncertainty around how we get home. It breeds every day. We can not lower your shoulders. As police, I'm used to thinking "situation awareness". You must be disciplined, lower your shoulders at the right time, take the assessment continuously.

  Are you afraid?

  - It is uncomfortable. Earthquake-theoretically, we know that the biggest quake is over, but we does not lower your shoulders. Built in Namche Bazaar, nobody wants to be. The stones can detach from the mountainside. Every day and every night there are aftershocks. It's uncomfortable.

  He is interrupted by sounds in the background.

  - Now call bells, Nepali people bury their dead. We visit here. We stand in the middle of a disaster and feel lucky because we have survived, repeat Meloy.
  When an earthquake measured at 7.9 on the Richter scale struck mountainous Nepal on Saturday, the Norwegian Everest Expedition on the rise in the mountains.

  - We were about to get up to Camp 2 at 6500 meters when the earthquake struck. We stood on a moraine ridge and saw that it came the avalanche from all sides. I figured at first did not know what happened. It was like "Wow, that was close, oj, here there is plenty." The terrain is like a horseshoe with Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse and there were landslides in all mountain sides. It slammed and shook. Some shouted "run" and I thought 'where should I run?". There are not many steps you're able to run with 15 kilograms on his back in 6500 meters altitude. So it was an inferno of snow and air, says Meloy.

  Then it was quiet.

  - Fortunately it happened nothing more, nothing hit us. There is luck, there is no calculation, where, he admits.

  "There were four to five hours where I did not know what happened to our boys. Then I had a stomach ache."

  What did you do next?

  - We were in a vulnerable position. There were large chunks of ice above us. So we conc to get us into the camp. Our four tents were behind a moraine mound. I called Hvitserk and said that there had been an earthquake and landslide, but that we were in good condition.

  When you realized that it was an earthquake?

  - We realized quite quickly. Sirdaren (sjefssherpaen, ed.'s Note.) Our said it instantly when we went to its knees, we were unable to keep our legs. I had recently been to a dinner with some British geologists who said that a major earthquake in Nepal was 50 years overdue, so I thought about what I had heard.
  What did you know about the situation in the base camp?

  - There were four to five hours where I did not know what happened to our boys. Then I had a stomach ache. It's not fun to be the head and not know how guys are. After a few hours we were notified that there was going well with our people. Doctor, Erling, had lost everything in the landslide, but had borrowed by satellite phone and called home. I had to have the first insider information, otherwise there are rumors. It was hard the first four to five hours.

  What were you thinking about the future?

  - We knew we had limited food and resources. Then it is well with talented people in the back office, Lars Oma Erichsrud have been through the icefall and know how it is there. He knew that there would not be navigable for a long time. Hvitserk arranged simply transport, so we were the first to be flown out, he says.
  All the staff at Hvitserk office was in Nepal earlier spring. To prepare for the expedition, they had meetings with the embassy, hospitals, rescue services and helicopter companies. The goal was to have the best support system, even though the Norwegian tour operator had not had people on top of the world's highest mountain earlier.

  Meloy knew it was out of the question to try to go down to base camp. That would mean crossing the Khumbu glacier falls. The route is secured with an intricate system of ladders and fixed ropes, which apparently was swept away by landslides. 107 individuals were caught at 6500 meters altitude. Meloy, who has led over 100 rescues in the job with the Governor, took the lead.

  "There were two in Camp 2 which was critically ill, one sherpa and a western. They were flown out as the first. They saved probably life on it."

  Inge Meloy, head of Hvitserk Everest expedition

  - I decided that the route to Camp 1 was not open. I stopped a British climber, who thanked me afterwards for having saved his life, he says.

  When two helicopters came in the air Sunday, the first used to evacuate injured from base camp. So they were available to transport the Norwegian expedition down.
  Meloy emphasizes that they were extremely careful with their evacuation should not take helicopter capacity that could have been used to transport the injured to hospital. Another assumption was that sherpas and western climbers should be treated equally.

  - There were two in Camp 2 which was critically ill, one Sherpa and a westerner. They were flown out as the first. They saved probably life on it. Then there was us. We were flown out on Sunday, thanks to a good plan. I took the role of manager effort. Patients were out first, then us.

  Was there some conflict about who did fly first?

  - There was no conflict, except that the sherpas did not quite understand that they should also be included. We were flown down with eight boost to base camp after all patients in the base camp were rescued from there.

  One helicopter could take one passenger, the other could take two. Each lift has a price tag of $10,000.

  - It is extremely to be fetched at 6400 meters. The day after they brought the 100 others. Thanks backofficen to Hvitserk we were at first, repeat Meloy.

  It turned out that evacuation by helicopter was only safe way to get down to those of Khumbu glacier when earthquake. More are missing after trying to take off down the mountain on foot.

  "There have not been many statements about the disappointment the last two days. People have invested a year and a half million, but is primarily pleased that the team is together. I marvel and rejoice in it.

  Inge Meloy, expedition leader on Everest in 2015

  It is the first time a Norwegian tour operator has Everest on the program. Inge Meloy leads a group in which each participant has paid 500,000 to experience the dream of climbing the world's highest mountain.

  - It's the most joy of living, but also disappointment over not to have got tried out. Everyone can go home to your family, it's fundamental feel. I think there's room for two things in mind at once. But there have been many statements about the disappointment the last two days. People have invested a year and a half million, but is primarily pleased that the team is together. I marvel and rejoice in it, he says.


expid: EVER15127
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Willie Benegas
sponsor: Benegas Brothers Expeditions (BBE) Everest-Lhotse 2014
bcdate: 2015-04-25
smtdate: 2015-04-25
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to earthquake
campsites: BC(25/04,5350m),C1(25/03,6100m),xxx
agency: High Altitude Dreams
routememo:
  Earthquake occurred the day the team arrived at base camp.

  Benegas, Moniz and Walkeley held permits for both Everest and Lhotse.


expid: EVER15150
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Eric Murphy
sponsor: Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Everest Expedition 2015
countries: Australia, Canada
bcdate: 2015-04-13
smtdate: 2015-04-25
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to earthquake
campsites: BC(13/04,5350m),C1(25/04,6100m),xxx.Mbrs(6100m),xxx.Shrpas(6400m)
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  Johnston held permits for both Everest and Lhotse.

  From Alpine Ascents Wordpress Blog:

  ALPINE ASCENTS TEAMS AT CAMP I AND BASE CAMP STAFF (April 25, 2015)

  I was able to speak to Lakpa Rita at base camp and along with other teams we are assisting with those effected by the avalanche at base camp. Those located in the center of the sprawling tent camp were most effected. Our larger tents are being used a medical tents and will report should there be any further development. All our climbers and Sherpa staff are OK.

  ALPINE ASCENTS TEAM UPDATE FROM CAMP I (April 26, 2015)

  I spoke with guide Eric Murphy early this morning and team is well at Camp I. Alpine Ascents guide Damian Benegas along with other climbers and guides tried to establish a route to base camp through the ice fall, but tremors made this impossible. At this time; the teams at base camp feel a route through the ice fall will be very difficult and thus we are looking to use helicopter transport to move our and other teams from Camp I to base camp. Though a few climbers have already been transported,  Eric informed us that the heli transport on a large scale should begin tomorrow. Non Alpine Ascents teams that are at Camp II will be moving to Camp I and all outfitters such as International Mountain Guides, Rainier Mountaineering, Madison Mountaineering, Adventure Consultants and other brethren outfitters are working together both at Base Camp and Camp I. We have heard of life lost at base camp and of course we all share this loss with our fellow climbing teams – offering support and condolences as we can – to the climbing community and the larger community in Nepal.

  BACK IN BASE CAMP (April 27, 2015)

  We just received word that climbers are back in Base Camp. We have a few staff members/Sherpas that were at Camp II and should have arrived at base camp as well or to be flown shortly. Team will remain at base camp and regroup while assisting with ongoing efforts. Other groups have also been flown down and some awaiting heli flights with the hope that climbers and Sherpa from all teams are back in BC in the next few hours.

  ALL SAFE IN BASE CAMP (April 27, 2015)

  All climbers, guides, and Sherpa are now off the mountain and in Base Camp.

  Today Fishtail Air, Manang Air, and Simrik Air are pulling together an incredible operation to heli everyone down from Camp I. If the weather holds as many as 160 climbers will be evacuated today. As we left Camp I, teams were arriving from Camp II after descending down the Western Cwm.


expid: EVER15154
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Tim Mosedale
sponsor: Tim Mosedale's Everest Expedition 2015
bcdate: 2015-04-17
smtdate: 2015-04-25
termdate: 2015-04-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to earthquake
campsites: BC(17/04,5350m),C1(25/04,6100m),xxx
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Many of the Himalayan Guides staff are listed with this team, but actually worked with other Himalayan Guides' teams.

  Team rescued by helicopter from C1 on 27 April.


expid: EVER15155
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Norway
leaders: Paal Morten Tande
sponsor: Norwegian Everest Expedition 2015
bcdate: 2015-04-27
termdate: 2015-04-27
termnote: Abandoned at base camp due to earthquake
campsites: BC(27/04,5350m),xxx.Shrpas(6100m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Team was acclimatizing on Lobuche East at the time of the earthquake. Members reached base camp on 27 April; Sherpas arrived earlier and already had made carries to 6100m.


expid: EVER15166
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Chris Harling
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Everest Expedition 2015
countries: New Zealand, USA
bcdate: 2015-04-15
smtdate: 2015-04-21
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to earthquake in Nepal
campsites: BC(15/04,5000m),ABC(19/04,6400m),xxx(21/04,7000m)
agency: Makalu Adventure
routememo:
  Members (9 clients):
    Rupert Jones-Warner
    Angus Ogg [?]
    Andy Clark [?]
    Andy James [?]
    Andrew Smith [?]
    Andy Taylor [?]
    Gareth Douglas [?]
    Jerome Chin [?]
    Annie [Doyle?]

  Sherpas (6)
    Ongchhu Sherpa
    Ngima Dorje Tamang
    Phurba Ongel Sherpa
    Pemba Sherpa
    Lakpa Dendi Sherpa
    Ngima Tashi Sherpa?


expid: EVER15104
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: SummitClimb Everest Expedition 2015
countries: Australia, Belgium, Romania, UK
bcdate: 2015-04-18
smtdate: 2015-04-25
termdate: 2015-05-02
termnote: Abandoned due to earthquake
campsites: BC(18/04,5350m),C1(25/04,6100m),xxx
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  From SummitClimb website:

  The season began in early April, after a snowy winter. The snow continued to fall lightly through the middle of April and the temperatures remained moderate. Our teams began arriving in Everest's Khumbu Valley at Lukla on 9 April. Our beautiful Himalayan trek arrived in basecamp on 17 April. While acclimatising at basecamp we completed a series of fun training walks, ice climbing practice sessions and forays into the mighty Khumbu icefall near basecamp. On 25 April, after lots of rest and training, we climbed the icefall during the wee hours up to camp 1 at 6100 metres / 20,000 feet.

  Upon arriving in Camp 1, we had just retreated inside the tents when, at 12:00 noon, the glacier we were camped upon began violently rolling like the ocean and then a large avalanche let loose from the high above west ridge of Everest sweeping camp 1 with spindrfit snow and winds. We radioed down to basecamp to find out that a huge ice avalanche from Mount Lingtren had destroyed basecamp. Later we found out that that a 7.5 earthquake had hit the entire Nepal and Tibet region with as many as 10,000 people dead or missing. In basecamp around 20 people had been killed or were missing in the aftermath of the 1 minute earthquake. One of those tragically lost was Tom Taplin, a film maker who had chosen to not climb up to camp 1, but rather to stay in his tent in basecamp. He was later found hurled by high winds 300 metres / 500 feet from camp, near his broken camera. Our deepest condolences to the lost climber's family, friends, and colleagues. Needless to say, the route through the icefall was destroyed, with little possibility of safe descent and all 100 plus people in camp 1 were helicopter evacuated down to basecamp. Upon arrival we found basecamp to be leveled flat, a total loss.

  All teams spent the next several days digging through the snow for their lost posessions, and then trekking and helicoptering back to Kathmandu.


expid: EVER15134
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Manash Barooah
sponsor: Assam Mt. Everest Expedition 2015
termnote: Abandoned at base camp due to earthquake
campsites: BC(5350m),xxx
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  From the Telegraph, Calcutta, India:

  Guwahati, May 14: They were just 200 metres from where disaster struck - an avalanche that devoured 18 people at the Everest base camp.

  The scars of April 25, when the tremors jolted Nepal, and still continue to do so, will be hard to erase, but the 11-member Assam Everest Expedition team has not lost hope of fulfilling a dream it has harboured for long-to climb the world's highest peak.

  "It was around 11.45am when all of us could feel the glacier beneath our feet shaking violently. Thereafter, our worst fear became a reality as chunks of ice, stone and debris came crashing down at the base camp, demolishing everything in its way. We were training just 200 metres away," team leader Manash Barooah told reporters here today, recalling the "tryst with near death."

  The team arrived in Guwahati yesterday after almost a month and a half since it left the city for Kathmandu en route to Base Camp.

  The decision to cancel the expedition was taken on May 3, one that has left them shaken and distraught.

  "The decision came after a meeting in the presence of several leaders of various expedition teams and Russell Brice, a representative of Himex, an organisation which guides mountaineering and trekking expeditions to Mt. Everest. Brice told us that he was running short of experienced Sherpas to open a route above Camp 2, as many of his Sherpas had left for home after the earthquake," Barooah said.


expid: EVER15164
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Eiko Funahashi
sponsor: Japanese Everest Expedition 2015
termnote: Abandoned due to earthquake
campsites: BC(5350m),xxx
agency: Dreamers Destination Treks permit
routememo:
  Attempt by Funahashi to become oldest woman to climb Everest.

  Oyama held permits for both Everest and Lhotse.


expid: EVER15114
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Zhang Wei
sponsor: Chinese Dream Everest Expedition 2015
bcdate: 2015-04-19
termdate: 2015-04-26
termnote: Abandoned at 5350m due to avalanche caused by earthquake
campsites: BC(19/04,5350m),xxx
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  When the earthquake occured, the team was in their dining tent at BC. Nobody was hurt.

  Zhang Jing-Chuan, Huang, Li, Liu and Zhu held both Everest and Lhotse permits.

  Zhang Wei and Ma Yuan held only Nuptse permits.


expid: EVER15144
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Shekhar Bachinepally
sponsor: Transcend Adventures Everest North Expedition 2015
bcdate: 2015-04-16
smtdate: 2015-04-23
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to earthquake in Nepal
campsites: BC(16/04,5200m),IC(22/04,5800m),ABC(23/04,6400m),xxx
agency: Arun Treks
routememo:
  From expedition Facebook:

  The Mt. Everest Expedition for Spring 2015 on the North or Tibet Route stands cancelled.

  The team leaders of all the expeditions in Base Camp@5400mt had a high ranked meeting this morning.

  Mr. Nima Tsering, Vice Chairman, CMA (Chinese Mountaineering Association), had visited the Base Camp and officially announced of the decision to all the members & leaders of several expeditions who are marooned to take the next step.


expid: EVER15177
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Yang Byeong-Ok
sponsor: Korean Alpine Club Blind-Man Mr. Song Everest Expedition 2015
termnote: Abandoned due to earthquake
campsites: BC(5350m),xxx
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal
routememo:
  Two combined teams?:
    Yesgumi 7 Summits 2015 Asia-Everest (8848m) Expedition
      Jang Hun-Moo (Ldr)
      Park Mun-Seok
      Jeong Yong-Gyu
      Kwon Juong-Ok
      Song Jun-Kyo
    Korean Alpine Club Blind-Man Mr. Song Everest Expedition 2015
      Yang Byeong-Ok (Ldr)
      Choi Byong-Son
      Song Kyoung-Tae


expid: LHOT15111
peakid: LHOT
year: 2015
route1: W Face
nation: UK
leaders: Phil Crampton
sponsor: Altitude Junkies Lhotse Expedition 2015
countries: Australia, China, Lithuania
bcdate: 2015-04-11
smtdate: 2015-04-23
termdate: 2015-05-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to earthquake
campsites: BC(11/04,5250m),C1(6000m),C2(6400m),xxx.Mbrs(23/04,5900m),xxx.Shrpas(23-24/04,6400m)
agency: Expedition Himalaya
primid: EVER15122
routememo:
  No members had ventured far above BC before the earthquake struck the area on 25 April and triggered avalanches. But on 23 April all Everest (and Lhotse) members, plus 9 Sherpas, did go to just below C1 (to 5900m) and returned to BC the same day.

  John Tsang was with Asian Trekking on the Expedition Himalaya permit.


expid: MAKA15109
peakid: MAKA
year: 2015
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Slovakia
leaders: Tibor Hromadka
sponsor: Slovak Mountain Guides Makalu Expedition 2015
bcdate: 2015-04-18
smtdate: 2015-05-01
termdate: 2015-05-05
termnote: Abandoned at 6550m due to exhaustion and lack of support
campsites: BC(18/04,4850m),ABC(20/04,5800m),C1(30/04,6350m),C2(01/05,6550m),xxx
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Two members (Slezak and Trgina) were evacuated from base camp by helicopter on April 20.

  After the earthquake, Hromadka, Packo, Knizka, Pekarcik and Seleksky departed the expedition. Matej and Suchy stayed on and were able to climb to C2 before giving up.


expid: MAKA15110
peakid: MAKA
year: 2015
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kenichi Kubo
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Makalu Expedition 2015
countries: China, India
approach: Tumlingtar->Num->Makalu BC
bcdate: 2015-04-18
termdate: 2015-05-03
termnote: Abandoned at 5700m due to earthquake
campsites: BC(18/04,4900m),ABC(20/04,5700m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Vajpai and the rest of the team were at ABC when the earthquake struck. After discussing the situation the following day, the team abandoned the expedition on 26 April.

  The Seven Summit Treks members left by helicopter on 3 May.


expid: MANA15103
peakid: MANA
year: 2015
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
sponsor: Paulo Manaslu Expedition 2015
smtdate: 2015-05-08
smttime: 1500
othersmts: Summited Tsar Batsa (6621m) on 9 May (PAWR-151-01)
campsites: Smt(08/05)
agency: Yeti Adventure
routememo:
  Pavel Bem climbed together with Daniel de Gabai of Paulo Grobel's expedition. They started from C3. The weather was windy when they started, but improved during the course of 8th May. They stayed about 30 minutes on the summit and descended to C3, where Bem picked up his skis and skied down all the way to BC. He reached it at about 8 pm.

  Paulo Grobel (on Chaar Baatsa Himal):

  [After leaving Manaslu] we then trekked to Larkya Pass. Just to the north of the pass, southeast of Panbari, is a group of mountains including unclimbed Tsar Batsa Himal [Pawar Central] (6621m). Frank Bonhomme, Christian Hurgon, Dhane Magar, Deepen Bhote, Jangbu Sherpa, Rajan Lama and I headed up this peak from the pass with two tents and the minimum of equipment. Thanks to good acclimatization, weather, and snow conditions, we made rapid progress, and by midday had reached 5800m and a suitable campsite. The following morning, May 9, we left at 4 am, making quick progress up fine snow slopes until the sun softened the snow. The summit ridge had no nasty cornices, and we were on top at 11 am. Our ascent route, via a hanging glacier to the south, up onto the East Ridge, and so to the summit, was III/PD+.


expid: NUPT15101
peakid: NUPT
year: 2015
route1: N Face
nation: USA
leaders: David Fitzpatrick
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Nuptse Expedition 2015
termnote: Abandoned due to earthquake
campsites: BC(5350m),xxx
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Nuptse permit was taken to allow members passage through the Icefall for various filming, Everest team support and other projects.


expid: GORK15101
peakid: GORK
year: 2015
route1: S side
nation: UK
leaders: Julian Freeman-Attwood
sponsor: Gorakh Khang Expedition 2015
countries: Italy
termnote: Abandoned due to earthquake (did not reach base camp)
agency: Royal Mountain Travel
routememo:
  Team was still trekking through the very remote areas in Humla when the earthquake happened. They did not feel it and continued trekking to Nepka village. When on 1 May one of the members made a phone call to his wife, they found out that a devastating earthquake had hit Nepal. They immediately decided to turn back and abandoned their trip.


expid: HIML15101
peakid: HIML
year: 2015
route1: W Ridge?
nation: Turkey
leaders: Tunc Findik
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Himlung Expedition 2015 Spring
termnote: Abandoned due to bad snow conditions
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Findik was intending to climb Himlung in March for acclimatization for Annapurna I in April, but encountered difficult and dangerous snow conditions on Himlung, so decided to cancel Annapurna I for this season.


expid: AMAD14367
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: John Mason
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Ama Dablam Expedition 2014
bcdate: 2014-11-21
smtdate: 2014-11-23
termdate: 2014-11-25
termnote: Abandoned at 5700m due to unstable conditions on the dablam
campsites: BC(21/11,4700m),C1(23/11,5700m),xxx
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  From http://amadablam2014.blogspot.com:

  TUESDAY, 25 NOVEMBER 2014

  A Tough Call
  Posted by John Mason at 05:36

  John and Rem went up to camp 1 with a view to getting on the mountain to have a closer look at the Serac. Camp 1 was all but empty so there was plenty of choice for tents to sleep in. A view over the ridge to the main base camp showed that most of the expeditions had packed up and gone home.

  The decision was made to get on the route but not to go for the summit. The serac could go at anytime, and the route is in the firing line for a couple of hours, with no real opportunity to get out of the way. It was a tough call but they decided not to go for it.


expid: HIML12312
peakid: HIML
year: 2012
route1: W Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Wolfgang Vollmann
sponsor: German-Belgian Himlung Expedition 2012
countries: Belgium
approach: Koto->Meta->Kyang->Phugaon
bcdate: 2012-10-03
smtdate: 2012-10-10
termdate: 2012-10-12
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to cold fingers of Houben
campsites: BC(03/10,4800m),C1(09/10,5400m),C2(10/10,6100m),xxx
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  BC  03/10  4800m
  C1  09/10  5400m
  C2  10/10  6100m
  HPt	10/10  6100m by Houben.

  Climb abandoned on 10 Oct due to cold fingers of Houben.

  Vollmann reached C1 and was too tired to carry on. Houben tried for the summit on 10 Oct, however, his fingers got too cold and abandoned expedition.


expid: ANN115301
peakid: ANN1
year: 2015
route1: E Ridge of Annapurna South
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Yves Igonenc
sponsor: French Annapurna I 2015
approach: Beshisahar
bcdate: 2015-09-14
smtdate: 2015-09-27
termdate: 2015-10-04
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to dangerous rockfall
campsites: BC(14/09,4200m),Biv1(26/09,5000m),xxx(27/09,5800m)
agency: Mountain Tribes Trekking
routememo:
  BC  14/09  4200m
  Bv1 26/09  5000m
  HPt 27/09  5800m by Moatti, Ratel, Bletton, Bonniot.

  The mountain was extremely dry and the weather was very hot this year. The way to BC required a lot of rope and was strenuous. As it was so warm, there was a lot of rockfall and it became apparent that the intended route (Ueli Steck in 2013) was impossible. When they reached their bivouac, they rested for a while and started to climb at 1 am. It was very warm and rocks were already falling in the middle of the night. When they reached a ledge, which was protected from the rockfall at 5800m, they stopped and spent the whole day there as it would have been too dangerous to go down in these conditions. They started their abseil at 5 pm, spent the night at bivouac 1 and descended to BC on 28 Sept.

  Igonenc climbed to 5000m on the South Face to have a look, but he never intended to go to the summit.

  Igonenc was the expedition leader for both the Annapurna I South Face and the Annapurna South East Ridge expeditions. He was listed only on the Annapurna I permit.


expid: HIML15301
peakid: HIML
year: 2015
route1: W Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Peter Schatzl
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Himlung Expedition 2015
countries: Austria, Germany, Italy
approach: Koto->Meta->Phu
bcdate: 2015-09-11
smtdate: 2015-09-24
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2015-09-28
campsites: BC(11/09,4800m),C1(16/09,5400m),C2(19/09,6100m),Smt(24/09)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  BC  11/09  4800m
  C1  16/09  5400m
  C2  19/09  6100m	
  Smt 24/09  Boffeti, Mengel, Schatzl, Slanzi, Slanzi-Berchtold, Lal Bahadur, 
             Nima, Chhongba, Karma, Chhiti Thinduk at 8:30 am. 

  First summit attempt on 20 Sept abandoned due to bad snow conditions. Team turned around at 6800m and descended to BC. On 23 Sept team started 2nd summit push and climbed to C2. On 24 Sept they started at 1 am. Weather was fine and snow conditions had improved. Summit ridge was very windy (30 to 40 kmh). They stayed about half an hour on summit and descended to C2 for the night.

  Flade reached 6800m during first summit attempt on 20 Sept. On 24 Sept he had an upset stomach and stayed at C2.

  Oetting reached 7000m. He felt altitude sick (balance problem) and turned back to C2, where he stayed the night.

  Sherpas:
    Chhiti Thinduk (Chhiring Thinduk) Bhote, 25/8/1981, Hatiya-3
    Chhongba Sherpa, 13/4/1966, Taksindu-6, Solukhumbu
    Lal Bahadur Tamang, 21/6/1983, Ramche-6, Rasuwa
    Nima Tendu, 31/8/1973, Mathilow, Makalu-Barun
    Karma Sherpa, (2031/7/12), Pawai-2, Solukhumbu, no previous 8000m


expid: MAKA15301
peakid: MAKA
year: 2015
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Adrian Ballinger
sponsor: Alpenglow Makalu Ski Expedition 2015
countries: USA
approach: Tumlingtar->Shipton La->Makalu BC
bcdate: 2015-08-28
smtdate: 2015-09-29
termdate: 2015-10-02
termnote: Abandoned at 8100m due dangerous snow conditions
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
campsites:
  BC(28/08,4700m),ABC(29/08,5700m),C1(08/09,6100m),C2(10/09,6600m),C3(21/09,7450m),C4(28/09,7650m),Shrpas.xxx(29/09,8100m),Mbrs.xxx(29/09,7650m)

routememo:
  BC  28/09  4700m
  ABC 02/09  5700m
  C1  08/09  6100m
  C2  10/09  6600m
  C3  21/09  7450m
  C4  28/09  7650m
  HPt 29/09  8100m by Mingma Chhiring, Palden Namgye 
  HPt 29/09  7650m by Ballinger, Harrington, O'Neill & Morrison

  First summit attempt was abandoned on 22 Sept due to deep snow and dangerous conditions. Ballinger, Morrison, O'Neill and Harrington reached C3. They had carried their skis up and left them there for next summit push. During their second summit push they reached C4, but abandoned climbed because Mingma Chhiring was caught in an avalanche.

  Mingma Chhiring, Palden Namgye, Tenzing Gyalzen and Panuru reached C4 on 28 Sept. On 29 Sept Palden and Mingma Chhiring were fixing ropes and reached 8100m when Mingma Chhiring was caught in an avalanche and dragged down for about 50m. He bruised his ribs. When avalanche happened members had just reached C4. Everyone stayed at C4 that night. The next morning they discussed what to do; however, the Sherpa team said that they were not going back up due to the bad conditions.

  As Harrington and O'Neill had attempted to climb Makalu without oxygen, they had ascended to C4 without using oxygen. However due to having to clear the mountain, they used oxygen on the descent. On 30 Sept Ballinger, Morrison and O'Neill skied from C4 to C3. Harrington walked as she had her skis at C3. O'Neill and Morrison also skied from C3 to C2. Harrington and Ballinger walked to C2. Entire team skied again from C2 to ABC.

  DesLauriers reached ABC. She was altitude sick and left ABC on 4 Sept.

  Sherpas:
    Palden Namgye/Namgyal,Phortse, Khumbu, 20/9/72
    Mingma Tshering (Mingma Chhiring), Phortse, Khumbu, 26/4/72
    Tenzing Gyalzen, Phortse, Khumbu, 2/7/1991
    Panuru (Pasang Nuru, Pa Nuru), Phortse, Khumbu, 22/5/1968


expid: MANA15302
peakid: MANA
year: 2015
route1: NE Face
nation: Austria
leaders: Andreas Neuschmid
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Manaslu Expedition 2015
countries: Germany
approach: Tatopani->Bimthang, Larkya La->BC
bcdate: 2015-08-31
smtdate: 2015-09-30
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2015-10-03
campsites: BC(31/08,4700m),C1(05/09,5600m),C2(09/09,6300m),C3(24/09,6800m),C4(29/09,7400m),Smt30/09)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  BC  31/08  4700m
  C1  05/09  5600m
  C2  09/09  6300m
  C3  24/09  6800m 
  C4  29/09  7400m
  Smt 30/09  by Diez Juergen, Diez Stefan, Neuschmid, Riedl, Kanchha Lama, 
             Pemba Sherpa, Gyalzen Sherpa at 8 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 1 am. Weather was calm (-19C) and snow conditions were good. They spent about 5 minutes on the summit. On the way down they met Zoltan Benedek (Dan Mazur's team member who died), who already seemed weak on his way wap up. They descended to C4, rested there for 3 hours and then stayed the night at C3, where they arrived at 5 pm.

  First summit push was abandoned due to too much snow and lack of fixed ropes.

  Weigl reached C3 on 10 Sept. He stayed at BC for the rest of the expedition due to exhaustion.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C4 by Riedl.

  Sherpas:
    Kanchha Lama, Taksindu-2, Solukhumbu, 19/11/1982
    Pemba, Ghunsa, Lelep-9, Taplejung, 9/7/82
    Gyalzen Sherpa


expid: MANA15301
peakid: MANA
year: 2015
route1: NE Face
nation: Russia
leaders: Oxana Morneva
sponsor: Makalu Extreme Manaslu Expedition 2015
countries: Nepal
approach: Bimthang->Larkya La
bcdate: 2015-09-14
smtdate: 2015-09-24
termdate: 2015-09-26
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to loss of equipment stored at C3 site
campsites: BC(14/09,4700m),C1(16/09,5800m),C2(17/09,6400m),xxx(24/09,7000m)
agency: Makalu Extreme Treks
routememo:
  BC  14/09  4700m
  C1  16/09  5800m
  C2  17/09  6400m
  C3	--     7000m (deposit)
  HPt 24/09  7000m on col by Morneva, Chatur Tamang.

  Team left BC for summit push on 22 Sept. Conditions on the mountain were precarious. Lots of windslab. More crevasses between BC and C2 than in previous years. On 24 Sept team climbed to C3 (on the col). Fixed rope was sketchy above C2. Team reached C3 at 8 am on 24 Sept. Their tent, five bottles of oxygen and 9 Epi-gas cans were gone. They were devastated and looked for the equipment for 8 hours. At 4 pm they descended to C2, where they stayed the night. On 25 Sept they left C2 at 3 am and reached BC at noon. As they knew that the expedition was over they had packed up all their camps and took them down.


expid: MANA15316
peakid: MANA
year: 2015
route1: NE Face
nation: Sweden
leaders: Fredrik Strang
sponsor: Rolwaling Excursion Manaslu Expedition 2015
approach: Tatopani->Bimthang->Larkya La->BC
bcdate: 2015-09-23
smtdate: 2015-10-01
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2015-10-03
campsites: BC(23/09,4700m),C1(25/09,5600m),C2(26/09,6300m),C3(29/09,6800m),C4(30/09,7400m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion (Himalayan Guides pmt)
routememo:
  BC  23/09  4700m
  C1  25/09  5600m
  C2  26/09  6300m
  C3  29/09  6800m 
  C4  30/09  7400m
  Smt 01/10  by Strang, Pemba Rita and Chhiring Dorjee at 6:30 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 1:30 am. Strang was carrying his skis as he had intended to ski from the top; however, the snow was bad and he left his skis at 7900m on the ascent. They stayed about 5 minutes on the summit and descended all they way to BC (breaking down their camps on the way down). He picked up his skis and carried them down as the snow was too bad. They reached BC at 6:30 pm.


expid: MANA15305
peakid: MANA
year: 2015
route1: NE Face
nation: China
leaders: Song Yu-Jiang
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Chinese Manaslu Expedition 2015
approach: Samagaon
bcdate: 2015-09-10
smtdate: 2015-09-30
termdate: 2015-10-02
campsites: BC(10/09,4700m),C1(17/09,5600m),C2(28/09,6400m),C3(28/09,6800m),C4(29/09,7400m),Smt(30/09,01/10)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  10/09  4700m
  C1  17/09  5600m
  C2  28/09  6400m
  C3  28/09  6800m (Lu)
  C4  29/09  7400m
  Smt 30/09  by Lu, 1 Sherpa 
  Smt 01/10  Bao, Jiao, Kuang, Li Hui Yang, Li Hai Bing, Mi, Song Yu-Jiang, 
             [Song Yu], Wang, Wu, Yang and 12 Sherpas between 4:30 am and 8 am.

  1 Oct summit team left C4 at midnight. Weather was calm and clear. They spent an average of about 10 minutes on the summit. They descended to BC, where they arrived between 4 pm and 10 pm. Song and Bao stayed the night at C3.

  Lu, who summited on 30 Sept, also left C4 at midnight. He stayed at C3 on the descent.

  Tang reached BC on 10 Sept. He left on 11 Sept as his father had been taken ill.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from BC to summit to BC by Lu; 
    Other members from C3 to summit to C4; 
    From C4 to summit to C4 by Sherpas;
    Song without oxygen


expid: MANA15308
peakid: MANA
year: 2015
route1: NE Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Ryuseki Hiraoka
sponsor: Ryuseki Expeditions Manaslu Expedition 2015
approach: Samagaon
bcdate: 2015-09-05
smtdate: 2015-10-01
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2015-10-02
campsites: BC(05/09,4700m),C1(10/09,5800m),C2(11/09,6300m),C3(20/09,6800m),C4(30/09,7400m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  BC  05/09  4700m
  C1  10/09  5800m
  C2  11/09  6300m
  C3  20/09  6800m 
  C4  30/09  7400m
  Smt 01/10  by Hiraoko, Tokusa, Pemba Geljen, Pemba Nuru at 6:30 am;
             Taguchi, Nima Nurbu, Nima Kancha at 8 am.

  Izumi and Fuji reached C3 during their first summit push on 24 Sept. They abandoned their first summit attempt due to one of Brice's Sherpas falling into the crevasse. The Sherpas did not continue to fix the rope, so they descended.

  On second summit push summit team left C4 at 2 am. Weather and conditions were very good. No wind. They stayed about five minutes on the summit and descended to C2 (4 pm), where they stayed the night.

  Taguschi tried to summmit without oxygen, but had to start using it near the summit as his vision was blurred. He did not use it on the descent.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Hiraoka and Tokusa; 
    From C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas; 
    From 8000m to top by Taguchi

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Gyalzen/Geljen, Thami, Khumbu, 22/7/96
    Pemba Nuru (Kaila), Pare, Khumbu, 03/2/1973
    Nima Nuru, Thamiteng, Khumbu, 20/02/80
    Nima Kancha, Pare, Khumbu, 19/7/75


expid: MANA15314
peakid: MANA
year: 2015
route1: NE Face
nation: Hungary
leaders: David Klein
sponsor: Hungarian Manaslu Expedition 2015
approach: Larkya La->Samdo
bcdate: 2015-09-07
smtdate: 2015-10-01
smttime: 0700
termdate: 2015-10-03
campsites: BC(07/09,4800m),C1(11/09,5633m),C2(17/09,6190m),C3(24/09,6800m),C4(30/09,7400m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Klein left C4 at 11:38 pm on 30 Sept. Wind less than 10 km/hr. Straightforward climb. Klein had to wait for about 40 minutes at rocky summit due too much snow. He spent 3 minutes on summit. He descended to C2, where he arrived at 4 pm. He broke down his camps and descended on 2 Oct.


expid: MANA15309
peakid: MANA
year: 2015
route1: NE Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Dominik Mueller
sponsor: Amical Alpin Manaslu Expedition 2015
countries: Austria, Switzerland
approach: Tatopani->Bimthang->Larkya La
bcdate: 2015-09-13
smtdate: 2015-10-01
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2015-10-06
campsites: BC(13/09,4700m),C1(17/09,5800m),C2(23/09,6400m),C3(24/09,6800m),C4(30/09,7400m),Smt(01-02/10)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  BC  13/09  4700m
  C1  17/09  5800m
  C2  23/09  6400m
  C3  24/09  6800m
  C4  30/09  7400m
  Smt 01/10  by Pircher, Krause, Schroeder, Schwab, Jangbu Sherpa at 10 am
  Smt 02/10  by Pemba Nuru Sherpa, Mueller at 5:30 am.

  1 Oct summit team left C4 at 3 am. When they left camp, they saw Zoltan Benedek and Jean-Luc Bremond from Dan Mazur's team in their tent and they were still Ok. Straightforward climb. They spent about 5 minutes on the summit. Krause and Schroeder descended to C2, where they arrived at 2 pm. Pircher, Schwab and Jangbu descended to C1. On 1 Oct everyone was back at BC.

  Mueller and Pemba Nuru left C4 at 12:30 am on 2 Oct. Straightforward climb. Spent about 15 minutes on the summit. On their descent they stopped at C4, where they arrived at 7:40 am. Fessmann and Tuechler, who had not left for the summit, had given Bremond oxygen as he was suffering from altitude. His teammate Benedek had died already. Mueller alerted Seven Summit Treks to send up Sherpas to help Bremond go down. One of Seven Summit climbing Sherpas came up at 10 am and picked up Bremond. Mueller accompanied them to C3, where they arrived at noon. Bremond was picked up by helicopter from C3, Mueller carried on to C2, where he stayed the night.

  Bogenschuetz and Libera reached 7850m on their summit attempt on 1 Oct. They both had cold feet and turned back to C4, where they rested and then descended to C1.

  Fessmann and Tuechler reached C4 on 1 Oct. They did not leave for the summit push as they were too cold.

  Schmitt-Frister reached 7000m on 1 Oct. She abandoned climb as she was not feeling well.

  Thomsen reached C3 on 30 Sept. He had a bad cough and descended to BC.

  Zumstein reached C3 on 24 Sept. He was not feeling well and decided to abandon expedition and left BC on 26 Sept.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Nuru, Paiya, Solukhumbu, 27/01/75
    Jangbu Sherpa, Kharikhola, 19/9/1979


expid: ANNS15301
peakid: ANNS
year: 2015
route1: E Ridge of Annapurna South
nation: France
leaders: Jean-Yves Igonenc
sponsor: French Annapurna South 2015
approach: Beshisahar
bcdate: 2015-09-14
smtdate: 2015-10-01
termdate: 2015-10-04
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to dangerous rockfall
campsites: BC(14/09,4200m),Biv1(30/09,5600m),xxx(01/10,6000m)
agency: Mountain Tribes Trekking
routememo:
  BC  14/09  4200m
  Bv1 30/09  5600m
  HPt 01/10  6000m by Duchene, Jourdain and Sancier.

  Team climbed left from BC over a heavily crevassed glacier. It was very difficult to get through and they had to do a lot of route finding. When they reached 5600m, they set up a bivouac and stayed one night.

  Next morning they reached the bottom of a gully left of the rock face on the bottom of the ridge. There was a lot of rockfall which got too dangerous, so they descended from 6000m and went back to BC.

  Igonenc was the expedition leader for both the Annapurna I South Face and the Annapurna South East Ridge expeditions. He was listed only on the Annapurna I permit.


expid: EVER15301
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Nobukazu Kuriki
sponsor: Team Kuriki Mount Everest 2015
approach: Heli to Pheriche->Lobuche->Gorakshep->Kalapattar
bcdate: 2015-09-07
smtdate: 2015-10-08
termdate: 2015-10-11
termnote: Abandoned at 8150m due to high wind and bad snow conditions
othersmts: Summited Lobuche East (stayed on top for two weeks)
campsites: BC(07/09,5300m),C2(23/09,6400m),C3(25/09,7000m),C4(26/09,7600m),xxx(08/10,8150m)
agency: Bochi Bochi Treks
routememo:
  First attempt on 27 September had to retreat from 7850m due to waist-deep snow. Kuriki went down to BC same day. Kuriki's second summit push started from BC on 2 October to C2. On 3 October he got to C3 where he stayed for two nights (4 and 5 October) due to high winds. On 6 October he reached C4. On 7 October Kuriki left C4 at 7 pm, arrived at 8150m at 3:30 am of 8 October, then decided to call off the climb due to high winds and bad snow conditions (ice surface covered with fresh soft snow). Kuriki returned C4 at around 5 pm and same day went down to BC where he arrived at 11 pm.

  Kuriki said there were very few avalanches compared to other years on the mountain. The camera crew members did not go up beyond BC. Next year he is planning to attempt from the north side.

  Fixed rope: 
    Icefall doctors fixed the line in Khumbu Icefall. 
    Kuriki did not use any rope above Icefall.


expid: MANA15311
peakid: MANA
year: 2015
route1: NE Face
nation: France
leaders: Nicolas Lochu
sponsor: Higher than My Dreams Manaslu Expedition 2015
approach: Tadapani->Bimthang->Larkya La->BC
bcdate: 2015-09-06
smtdate: 2015-09-24
termdate: 2015-09-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to dangerous snow conditions
campsites: BC(06/09,4900m),C1(10/09,5800m),C2(15/09,6400m),C3(23/09,6900m),xxx(24/09,7000m)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  BC  06/09  4900m
  C1  10/09  5800m
  C2  15/09  6400m
  C3  23/09  6900m 
  HPt 24/09  7000m by Chasserant and Lochu.

  On their way to C44 team turned back due to dangerous snow conditions. They thought ascending further would put them in avalanche danger. They descended all the way to BC the same day.


expid: AMAD14368
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Olya Lapina
sponsor: Olya on Ama Dablam
approach: Lukla->Namche->Deboche->Ama Dablam BC
bcdate: 2014-10-14
smtdate: 2014-10-20
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2014-10-22
campsites: BC(14/10,4700m),C1(18/10,5800m),C2(19/10,6100m),Smt(20/10)
agency: 7 Summits Adventure (Seven Summit Treks pmt)
routememo:
  Lapina and Pasang left C2 at 1:30 am and got to the top at 1 pm, stayed there for 10 minutes, then returned C2 at 10:30 pm. Next day they went down to BC.

  Lapina left BC on 22 Oct by helicopter. 


expid: AMAD14369
peakid: AMAD
year: 2014
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Marcin Szczotka
sponsor: Polish Ama Dablam Expedition 2014
approach: Lukla->Namche->Chhukung->Pangboche->Ama Dablam BC
bcdate: 2014-11-07
smtdate: 2014-11-14
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2014-11-17
othersmts: Summited Island Peak on 4 Nov by all 5 members
campsites: BC(07/11,4550m),ABC(12/11,5400m),C1(13/11,5800m),Smt(14/11)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  Both Hatala's started from C1 at 4 am. They reached the summit about 10:30 am, stayed on the summit for 20 minutes, then back to C1 at 6 pm. 

  4 climbers summited ahead of them and 2 climbers after them.


expid: ANN415301
peakid: ANN4
year: 2015
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Tadaomi Miwatari
sponsor: Japanese Senior Climbing Party for Annapurna IV
ascent1: 36th
approach: Honde->Sabje Khola
bcdate: 2015-09-11
smtdate: 2015-09-27
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2015-09-30
campsites: BC(11/09,3700m),ABC(13/09,4800m),C1(24/09,5280m),C2(25/09,5850m),C3(26/09,6700m),Smt(27/09)
agency: Hoshi Treks
routememo:
  BC  11/09  3700m
  ABC 13/09  4800m
  C1  24/09  52800m
  C2  25/09  5850m
  C3  26/09  6700m 
  Smt 27/09  by Miwatari, Dhan Kumar Tamang, Tul Bahadur at 11:30 am.

  Team summited from C3. Weather was good but very cold. They left C3 at about 1 am.  After the summit they descended to C3, where they spent the night. On 28 Sept, they descended all the way to ABC. On 29 Sept to BC.

  Oxygen: Takend and used from C1 to summit to C2 by Miwatari.


expid: THUL15301
peakid: THUL
year: 2015
route1: W Face-NW Ridge
nation: Russia
leaders: Alexander Gukov
sponsor: Russian Thulagi Peak Expedition 2015
ascent1: 1st
approach: Dharapani, open camp on a bridge before Dharmasala
bcdate: 2015-09-10
smtdate: 2015-09-26
smttime: 1550
termdate: 2015-09-28
achievment: 1st ascent
agency: 7 Summits Adventure
campsites:
  BC(10/09,3665m),ABC(11/09,4700m),C1(16/09,5000m),C2A(17/09,5700m),C2B(17/09,5800m),C3.Biv(24/09,6700m),Smt(26/09)

routememo:
  BC  10/09  3665m at Dharmasala
  ABC 11/09  4700m above the glacier between Thulagi and Pharpi
  C1  16/09  5000m
  C2  17/09  5700m
  C3  24/09  6700m (biv)
  Smt 26/09  by Gukov, Dozhdev, Shamalo and Kirichenko at 3:50 pm.

  On 13 September the team started opening the route. When they reached 5000m, the weather became bad and they descended to 4700m where they spent the night. On 14 September they took their climbing gear and tent to 5250m and returned to BC. On 16 September they spent night at 5000m. Next day 17 September the team spent night at 5700m. On 18 September the team moved its camp to 5800m from 5700m and returned BC.

  The summit push started from BC on 21 September and they slept at 5100m at the beginning of glacier.

  On 22 September the team went to ABC and found that the tent was destroyed by avalanche. They found it 20m below. The climbing gear was intact inside the damaged tent, but the ice bars which were outside the tent were missing. They started looking for the missing ice bars which they found only 2 out of 5 bars.
   
  On 24 September route making started on West Face. They reached 6700m at 7 pm on NW Ridge and dug a cave to sleep. On 25 September they started at 8 am and reached the summit at 3:50 pm. They stayed on the summit for 15 minutes. The summit ridge was sharp. The team descended to 6700m and slept there. Weather was very good. On 26 September they bivied in at 5100m and on 27 September went down to BC.

  Good weather on 24, 25 and 26 September, rest of days snowfall, rain and foggy.

  West Face 60-degree ice wall and three pitches of rock face at 6500m about 100m vertical.

  NW Ridge plenty of snow, 50m ice fall in route and rest of route snow and not steep.

  The team arrived Kathmandu on 5 September stayed at Khangsar Guest House and left for the mountain on 8 Sept by vehicle.

  Fixed rope: 1700m from 5800m to summit.


expid: OMIT14301
peakid: OMIT
year: 2014
route1: E Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Scott Adamson
sponsor: American Omi Tso Go Expedition 2014
approach: Chit->Simigaon->Dangar->Beding->Na
bcdate: 2014-11-19
smtdate: 2014-12-02
termdate: 2014-12-04
termnote: Abandoned at 6000m due to route difficulty (needed a partner)
campsites: BC(19/11,5030m),ABC(22/11,5485m),xxx(04/12,6000m)
agency: Climb High Himalaya
routememo:
  Adamson started from ABC at 9 am. When he reached approximately 6000m at about 11 am the route became too technical. Then he thought that he could not tackle it alone and needed a partner. So he gave up and went down to ABC. And on the same day, the two members went to Na.

  Van Wiemeersch suffered from HAS, breathing problems, and was disoriented at ABC on 25 November.


expid: AMAD15104
peakid: AMAD
year: 2015
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Lithuania
leaders: Roberta Noreika
sponsor: Snowy Horizon International Ama Dablam Expedition 2015 (Group B)
countries: Australia, Canada, Spain
termnote: Abandoned due to earthquake
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  Snowy Horizon International Ama Dablam Expedition (Group B) was a collection of small teams on one Snowy Horizon permit. They arrived in Namche around 23 April. After the earthquake occurred on 25 April, most returned from Namche immediately, but others continued to base camp, but did no climbing.


expid: GAUS79301
peakid: GAUS
year: 1979
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Peter Boardman
sponsor: British Gaurishankar Expedition
ascent1: 1st
countries: Nepal, Switzerland
approach: Barabise->Charikot->Lamobagar->Bhote Kosi->Rongshar Gorge
bcdate: 1979-10-08
smtdate: 1979-11-09
smttime: 0900
termdate: 1979-11-13
termnote: Reached S Summit of Gaurishankar only; ridge to main summit too long
othersmts: Attempted Gaurishankar (GAUR-793-01)
primid: GAUR79301
campsites:
  BC(08/10,4800m),ABC(18/10,5300m),C1(24/10,5500m),C1(24/10,5500m),C2(29/10,6037m),C3(03/11,6100m),Biv(08/11,6800m),Smt(09/11)

routememo:
  Peter Boardman - 23 Nov 79

  3-4 days more to Main summit from South Summit. Would need another camp. Were high winds and no food left and 1 man's accident.


  Peter Boardman - 21 Sept 79

  Route = SW Ridge to South Summit

  One good camp at bottom at perhaps 19,500 ft and then "go for it" alpine-style.

  Leave Tuesday to Barabise. Trek up Bhote Kosi to Lamobagar to Hum trekking along border to BC site where Americans were last spring.

  Medical oxygen only, if any.
   
  Arrive BC 11-12 days after KTM departure with 30-40 porters.

  3-4 weeks acclimatizing and then climbing fast. 2000-3000 ft of rope with expedition but hope not to use it.

  Pemba Lama only Sherpa above BC.


  Letter from Peter BC - 11 Nov 1979

  Just arrived back here after an exciting trip up the West Ridge.

  We climbed it "capsule" starting off with food for four for 20 days on the 18th, pulling up our ropes three times and fixing above the next camp then finally going for it. Tim joing us just as we pulled up the ropes below C1, so the food did not last as long as we'd planned. In fact, haven't eaten much during the past days. The descent has taken us 3 days. Pemba, Tim Guy and I reached the top. John stayed at C3 after a fall of 200 ft on the 5th Nov (the wind blew him off a stance - I held him on 8 mil fixed rope, good job I had thick gloves on) which smashed his wrist and damaged his knee. Because of this we did not try for the main summit; also we had no food left (it would have taken us quite a few days more) or energy. We were satisfied with the unclimbed South Summit and with the West Ridge. Very very long and exciting cornices. We had only 5 dead men, 15 ropes, 25 pegs 15 ice pegs and 50 music cassettes.


  Letter from BC by Peter Boardman - 11 Nov 1979 

  BC 11th Nov expedition successful and all safe. First ascent of Tseringma 7010m south summit of Gaurishankar made by Boardman Leach Neithardt and Pemba Lamba at 9:00 hours.

  9th Nov after prolonged 23 day struggle up very difficult west ridge. Barry missed summit push owing to arm and knee injuries.


  Letter from Peter Boardman - 18th Oct 1979

  The reason why I'm here and not at Base Camp or higher on the mountain is because Tim is with me. Tim, despite his record as a brilliant alpinist, has had problems acclimatizing. I came down with him and the cook a couple days ago. I'm going back up to join the lads on the including tomorrow and it is probable that the cook and Tim will stay here. (On the hill Pemba Lama Guy John and myself spent 5 days stocking secure camp at the foot of the West Ridge.)


  The British-Nepalese Gauri Shankar Expedition 1979, by Peter Boardman

  The Plan

  We decided to mount a lightweight expedition taking a minimum of equipment. We wanted to include a Sherpa in our team, so that the spirit of the "British-Nepalese" cooperative effort could be maintained. Pemba (who's father is a lama) could help us by observing the various Buddhist rituals of incense and prayer flags at BC and help us to climb the mountain in a manner as sensitive and respectfull as possible to its religious significance.

  The border between Nepal and Chinese Tibet runs somewhere through the mountain and, naturally enough, the Nepalese authoorities asked us to stay well south of this line in our attempt. We were allowed to choose either the South Ridge or the West Ridge of the South Summit, both which look very difficult. We chose to attempt the West Ridge because its is slightly shorter, a classic line of corniced ridge 4 kms long.

  Narrative

  The three British members flew to KTM on the 18th Sept. There we were ably assisted by Mike Cheney and Mr Singh of the Sherpa Cooperative Trekking (P) Ltd, who provided us with an excellent staff: Pemba Lama as Sirdar, Dawa as Cook, Ang Rinzi as kitchen boy and Jetha as mail-runner. We also employed Pemba Sherpa as wood collector. All this staff, without exception, worked hard and capably. The expedition was also joined by a liaison officer, sub-inspector Sankar Pradhan of the Nepalese Police.

  Guy Neithardt was delayed but we eventually left KTM on 29th. The approach march took 10 days, via Barahbhise, Charikot and Lamobagar. We hired 48 porters, who carried our equipment to BC which we reached on the 8th Oct. The final 2 days involved a 3000m height gain which we rushed in case bad weather and snow high up turned back our porters.

  Unfortunately, because of this Tim Leach failed to acclimatize during the first week at BC and had to descend to a camp below the treeline on the 16 Oct. Fortunately, he subsequently acclimatized well and rejoined the climb, just as we were pulling the ropes up below Camp One on the 28th October.

  Between the 10th and the 18th Oct. Boardman, Barry, Neithardt and Pemba Lamba carried loads up to ABC at 5300m at the foot of the West Ridge in unpleasant weather. Advance Camp was stocked with 20 days food for four people.

  We then made a "capsule" style of ascent. Without redescent for further provisions, we fixed our 17 ropes between camps, pulling up the ropes as we moved up and stringing them out again. Leach's rejoining the effort stretched the food supplies but increased the climbing strength. The climb took us 23 days. We were lightly equipped - 3 lightweight tents, 30 karabiners, 25 rock pegs and 15 ice screws.

  The initial obstacle was a 300m deep gap in the ridge below two steep rock and ice towers. On the top of the second tower we established Camp One at 5500m on the 24th Oct. The first stage of the West Ridge rises to a pointed summit at 6037m. After complicated route finding and Grade III and IV rock and mixed climbing, Camp 2 was perched apprehensively on the Summit.

  From C2 on point 6037m the West Ridge runs almost horizontally for a km before rising again. Beyond C2 the climbing was frequently nerve wracking - threading between large double cornices. We could usually manage to climb between 4 and 6 pitches a day. On the 3rd Nov Camp 3, 6100m was established behind a distinctive 20m high rock tower just below where the ridge began to steepen again.

  It was a relief to climb stable mixed rock and ice pitches and to start gaining height again. However, strong winds were beginning to blow across the ridge - their force increasing every day. At 10:30 am on the 5th Nov Barry had led a steep pitch, was clipping into his belay anchor when a sudden freak gust of wind knocked him off the ridge. He had untied from the main climbing rope when it ran out, but fortunately, was still clipped into the 8 mil. non-stretch fixed line. he fell 60m down the north side before the rope arrested his fall. Luckily the line snagged on the arete before the fall came fully onto Boardman, who was belaying. Barry fell over two steep rock barriers and broke his left wrist, damaged his left knee and was mildly concussed. The other three members came up and he was helped down to C2. On the 6th Nov, after careful discussion and encouragement from Barry, it was decided to continue with the climb. Meanwhile, Barry waited at C2 - stoically refusing to eat our dwindling food supplies.

  The ridge rose steeply to a height of 6500m where another section of horizontal snow-mushroomed and snow-pinnacled ridge started again. The dangers of this section were highlighted when a large cornice collapsed moments after Leach had stepped off it. We had pulled up all the ropes used below Camp 2 and by the 7th Nov had refixed most of them for the fourth and last time.

  On the morning of the 8th Nov, Boardman, Leach, Neithardt and Pemba Lama set out for the summit, carrying a stove but no bivouac equipment and hoping to reach the summit that day. We were over-optimistic. The South Summit rises out of a large snow plateau at 6800m but to reach this plateau we had to cross a 30m deep gash in the ridge and then climb a steep headwall of rock and water ice. During that day we climbed 9 pitches - the last three in darkness. However, at 7:30 pm the angle eased as we reached seracs just below the edge of the plateau and bivouacked. It was a windy, intensely cold night and nobody slept well - some not at all.

  On the 9th Nov we set out for the summit after a few sips of warm water (we had left out last two meals at C2). Although numbed by an unpleasant night, it was an exhilarating change after 20 days on the narrow ridge below us to walk up the gently angled wide open slopes of the South Summit plateau and the weather was clear, despite occasional stinging spindrift.

  We reached the summit at 9:00 am and enjoyed fine views in all directions from Shisha Pangma to Everest. We stood 1m below the topmost point, out of respect to Gauri and Tseringma and stayed there 15 minutes, before the cold drove us down. In the early stages of the expedition we had contemplated the traverse along the ridge to the Northern Summit but Barry's accident, a lack of provisions, equipment and energy decided us against the idea - the traverse looked as if it would take 3 to 4 more days.

  The descent of the route took three days and we had no food for the last two. Barry managed the long traverse and abseils without problems, but with some pain. Fortunately, there had been no heavy snow falls whilst we were high on the route.

  The walk out from the BC took 6 days and we arrived in KTM on the 21st Nov and in Europe on the 25th.

  Conclusion

  The Northern and Eastern Tibetan sides of the mountain are at the moment out of bounds and might offer easier routes. There are certainly no straight forward ways up Gauri Shankar from the Nepalese side. The West Ridge is long and serious. We feel happy with the "capsule" style of our ascent - it suited our own abilities, the route and the equipment we took with us and was an exciting adventure on a formidable and beautiful mountain.


expid: GAUS84301
peakid: GAUS
year: 1984
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Michio Yuasa
sponsor: Japanese Alpine Club Tokai Goodwill Expedition to Gaurishankar
ascent1: 4th
bcdate: 1984-09-30
smtdate: 1984-10-19
smttime: 1545
termdate: 1984-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 7010m because time had run out (already overdue in Japan)
othersmts: Attempted Gaurishankar (GAUR-843-01)
achievment: 3rd ascent of South Smt
primid: GAUR84301
campsites:
  BC(30/08,4800m),C1(05/09,5600m),C2(21/09,6300m),C3(01/10,6300m),Biv(18/10,6350m),Biv(19/10,6600m),Smt(19/10)

routememo:
  BC at 4800m at NW of Beding and east of Ramdung Tolung
  C1 at 5600m at under rock face - just NW 
  C2 at 6314m top of Tseringma
  C3 at 6350m on face of S Summit
  Biv at 6600m on S Summit plateau (biv here after going to summit)
  High point at 7010m at S Summit.

  Climbed only to South Summit.

  Planned to make temporary C4 under final face on south side of South Summit but could not make it because very bad storm from 8 Oct for a weak, so went to South Summit in two bivouacs. On 20 Oct Saito and 3 other Japanese from C2 to BC while other South Summiters stay C3. 21 Oct all other summiters to BC and climbing finished because time finished, must go back to work in Japan. To reach Main summit would need 4 more days alpine style. Most difficult part: between BC and C2 not so difficult but near C3 called ridge "hell traverse" because was narrow saw tooth with mixed rock, soft snow and ice on its face. Total 8000m fixed rope.

  Some avalanches came down 7-9 Oct, but no one hit (fell across route about BC) but took out some fixed rope. Hamatani altitude sickness and left BC 4 Sept. Yuasa left BC 22 Sept with Hamatami after Hamatani had returned to expedition and again gotten sick.

accidents:
  Some avalanches on Oct 7-9, but no one hit (across route above BC and took out some fixed rope); Hamatani altitude sickness; Yuasa left BC with Hamatani after Hamatani had returned to expedition and again got sick


expid: NREK09301
peakid: NREK
year: 2009
route1: W Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Ryuseki Hiraoka
sponsor: Adventure Guides Ama Dablam Expedition 2009
smtdate: 2009-10-25
othersmts: Climbed Ama Dablam (AMAD-093-10)
campsites: Smt(25/10)
agency: Cosmo Treks
primid: AMAD09310
routememo:
  Before climbing Ama Dablam, the expedition went to Nirekha Peak (6159m), which is east-northeast of the better-known Gokyo Peak in Khumbu. The leader, Isoda, Kudo, Phu Tashi Sherpa and Min Bahadur Tamang, reached the summit via the West Ridge on 25 October.


expid: SHNW84101
peakid: SHNW
year: 1984
route1: S Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Doug Scott
sponsor: Makalu 1984
ascent1: 3rd
countries: France, USA
bcdate: 1984-04-19
smtdate: 1984-05-25
termdate: 1984-05-31
campsites: BC(19/04),Biv1(23/05,6100m),Biv2(24/05,6700m),Smt(25/05)
routememo: Climbed Shershon Northwest on traverse to Makalu SE Ridge.
primid: MAKA84103
othersmts:
  Climbed Chamlang (CHAM-841-01), Baruntse (BARU-841-02), Shershon Northwest (SHNW-841-01); attempted Makalu (MAKA-841-01)


expid: KCHS84302
peakid: KCHS
year: 1984
route1: Kangchung La-NW Ridge from S
nation: UK
leaders: Trevor Pilling
ascent1: 2nd
smtdate: 1984-11-21
campsites: Smt(21/11)
primid: TKPO84301
othersmts:
  Climbed Kwangde Nup (1st ascent by John Ball and Kurt Arenoe) and Tengkangpoche (TKPO-843-01); unauthorized attempts on Hunchi (HCHI-843-01) and Nagpai Gosum by Pilling and Ball in Nov


expid: TONG02301
peakid: TONG
year: 2002
route1: NW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Guenther Mussnig
sponsor: First Austrian Dhaulagiri VII (Putha Hiunchuli) Expedition
approach: Jomsom, up Kali Gandaki to Phalak->Lunza Khola to Mulug
smtdate: 2002-10-05
othersmts: Climbed Putha Hiunchuli (PUTH-023-01)
campsites: Smt05/10)
agency: Himalayan Sherpa Nepal
primid: PUTH02301
routememo:
  Tongu Peak (about 6200m/20,340ft), north of Dhaulagiri I, was climbed enroute to BC via NW Ridge running from Mu La to top. Summited on 5 Oct by Hummer, Peter Suntinger and Tronigger.


expid: KALI94101
peakid: KALI
year: 1994
route1: W Face of N Col-NW Face-N Ridge-N Smt
nation: Czechoslovakia
leaders: Martin Otta
sponsor: Czech Expedition to Baruntse 1994
ascent1: 3rd
bcdate: 1994-04-07
smtdate: 1994-05-06
termdate: 1994-05-09
othersmts: Climbed Island Peak
accidents: Nothing
agency: Everest Adventure
campsites:
  BC(07/04,4970m),ABC(24/04,5600m),Biv1(02/05,5970m),Biv2(03/05,6210m),Biv3(04/05,6400m),Biv4(05/05,6580m),Smt(06/05)

routememo:
  BC at Imja Khola
  Biv 1 at Imja Glacier at bottom of west wall of North Col
  Biv 2 at west wall of North Col
  Biv 3 at west wall
  Biv 4 on North Ridge.

  Most difficult part between 1st & 2nd biv rock ramp of 200m height. Slept 6th night back in 4th biv. Did not go on to other summits because sleeping bags, etc had gotten very wet; Otta's gloves shredded & had to go up from 4th biv without gloves. Descent route Spring '84 Koreans.

  At first, team summited Island Peak, then 6 to Baruntse (Stastry had altitude problem on Island Peak).


  Martin Otta - 15 May 94

  1) West Face - Baruntse North
  2) From Imja Glacier
  3) Start: 2 May from ABC (5600m)
     a) 2 May from 5600m to 5950m direct approx 50-60 degree ice climbing.
     b) 5950m to 6150m ramp from left to right approx 65-70 (200m) ice with
        unpleasant stones and finish mixed terrain 70 degree 50m
        Biv1 at 5970m in ramp.
     c) 1st snowfield - 100m 60 degree slope - from left to right to right 
        upper corner and 20m mix (IV) Between Biv1 and Biv2 snowfield, good
        hard snow.
        Biv2 at 6210m in 1st snowfield.
     d) 2nd snowfield 200m 55 degree direct up - good hard snow.
     e) 3rd snowfield 150m 60-65 degree ice -> no hard bad snow following 
        left side of field.
     f) 4th snowfield (200-250m) traverse in upper part of field (approx 50 
        degree) - very good hard snow. Biv3 at 6400m in snowfield.
     g) from 4th snowfield before end direct up in mixed terrain (IV) 50m 
        and continue 100m to the north ridge to four stones - Biv4 at 6580m.
     h) from 6580m North Ridge to the North Summit (7014m).
     i) descending - North Ridge to Numri-La, from Numri-La to Imja Glacier
        6-8 May (basecamp).


expid: NREK03301
peakid: NREK
year: 2003
route1: W Ridge?
nation: Nepal
leaders: Dolma Sherpa
sponsor: First Asian Women's Nirekha Expedition
countries: Iran, Mongolia, S Korea
smtdate: 2003-10-13
campsites: Smt(13/10)
routememo:
  Nepalese Gov't Press Release - 10 women climb Mount Nirekha
   
  Ten out of 15 women of the First Asian Women's Nirekha expedition scaled the 6159 meters high Mount Nirekha on the Mahalangur range on October 13, 2003, Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) said.
   
  The successful climbers were Korean nationals Ms. Oh Eun-sun, Sang-eung, Iranian citizens Mrs. Zarifeh Rhaimzadeh, Ms. Parvin Rozaeel, Ms. Laloh Koshavarz, Ms. Sedagheh Maghadam, Ms. Vida Porya Parchami and assistant Jalal Cheshmeh Ghasabani.
   
  Ms. Dolma Sherpa, Ang Lhakpa Sherpa, Ang Jangbu Sherpa and Lhakpa Sherpa were in the team from Nepal as expedition assistants.
   
  Organised by the Union of Asian Alpine Association (UAAA), the expedition had three members each from Korea and Mongolia and eight Iranians and a Nepali climber Ms. Dolma Sherpa from Nepal. The UAAA contributes for the promotion of mountaineering and addresses issues related to it in Asian nations. The team which left for Lukla on October 2 will be back on October 17, 2003.


expid: KCHS15301
peakid: KCHS
year: 2015
route1: Kangchung La-NW Ridge from S
nation: UK
leaders: Jon Gupta
sponsor: Mountain Expeditions Unclimbed Peaks Expedition
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Dingboche->Lobuje->Cho La->Dragnang
bcdate: 2015-10-28
smtdate: 2015-11-03
termdate: 2015-11-03
termnote: Abandoned at 5750m due to heavy, unstable snow conditions
othersmts: Summited Lobuche East (26 Oct); attempted Kyajo Ri (to 5900m)
campsites: BC(28/10,5250m),Dep(20/10,5500m),xxx(03/11,5750m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  From  website of Mountain Expeditions:    
     http://www.mountain-expeditions.co.uk/nepalunclimbedion-report-pxr/

  Itinerary:
    18/10- Flew to Lukla, walked to Namche Bazaar (3400m)
    19/10- to Kyangjuma (3600m), via Everest hotel (3900m)
    20/10- to Pangboche (4000m)
    21/10- to Dingboche (4400m), acclimatisation walk to 5100m on hill west of town
    22/10- 2nd night in Dingboche, acclimatisation walk to Chukung Ri, 5550m
    23/10- to Lobuche (4800m)
    24/10- Rest day in Lobuche; reccied route to Lobuche high camp
    25/10- to Lobuche East high camp (5400m)
    26/10- Summited Lobuche (6100m) and back to Lobuche village
    27/10- to Zongla (4800m)
    28/10- over Cho La pass (5300m) and to Kangchung BC (5250m); reccied Kangchung
           East Ridge and stashed gear at 5500m
    29/10- Heavy snow, retreated down to Dragnang (4700m)
    30/10- Snowing - stayed at Dragnang
    31/10- Weather clearing, walked to Gokyo for lunch (4800m) and returned to 
           Dragnang
    01/11- Rest day at Dragnang waiting for snow to settle
    02/11- Walked up to Kangchung BC, retrieved gear from East Ridge stash and 
           moved to below West Ridge
    03/11- Attempted Kangchung; turned back at 5750m due to poor snow conditions
           and illness in team; returned to Dragnag
    04/11- Walked to Gokyo (4800m)
    05/11- Rest day in Gokyo
    06/11- Walked to Machermo (4400m)
    07/11- Reccied North Ridge of Kyajo Ri
    08/11- Rest day
    09/11- Packed and prepared for attempt
    10/11- Walk to basecamp at base of Kyajo Ri
    11/11- Climb to camp 1 at 5800m on North Face
    12/11- Continue climbing the face to the ridge 5900m; descended back to Machermo
    13/11- Rest day
    14/11- Rest day
    15/11- Ice climbing (Looked at gully)
    16/11- Ice climbing
    17/11- Ice climbing
    18/11- Machermo to Namche
    19/11- Namche to Lukla
    20/11- Lukla to Kathmandu

  Kangshung, 6068m

  We had hoped to attempt Chhuphu, an as far as we are aware unclimbed peak in the Thame valley. With issues in Kathmandu it became apparent that it would not be easy for us to gain a permit for this, so we sought an alternative objective. Richard at the Himalayan Database tipped us off about an "unclimbed" peak, Kangchung, located to the northwest of the Cho La Pass. The peak was opened for climbing by the Nepali Government in 2014, as part of the 104 new peaks released.

  Richard let us know that two permits had been issued for the peak in the previous year, and through Iswari we contacted the agents who arranged the permits and discovered that neither team had been successful. After searching the Himalayan Index and the internet, and finding no records of attempts, we decided to attempt to make an ascent.

  We initially recced that East Ridge of the mountain, which appeared to be fairly chossy, but worth an attempt. Unseasonal snowfall then made the slabby rock presented by this aspect of the mountain unattractive. We also looked at the North Face from the col on the Northeast Ridge, but this looked to consist of steep chossy slabs.


  Will traversing across snow slopes after the ramp

  Upon returning to the mountain after the storm we attempted the snowy West Ridge, but were turned around by sugary unconsolidated snow on steep ice/neve, giving dangerous conditions. The glacier that approaches the col to the west looked to be in tricky condition, so we avoided this by climbing a scree/snow ramp on the SW flank of the mountain. To access the col, traverse left at the top of the ramp.

  We saw numerous signs of the passage of previous climbers on the mountain, including cairns and old water bottles. We have subsequently heard of three ascents by the West Ridge (all without permits), and one attempt on a route from the glacier to the north.

  Late 80's - "Phil" soloed the West Ridge, finding easy snow slopes.

  2006 - Local guide and lodge owner from Dragnag climbed the West Ridge, apparently finding it very straightforward.

  2013- An acquaintance of Jon's summited from the west.

  2014- A Czech team were rescued by helicopter whilst attempting to climb from the north side of the mountain.

  A note to future potential ascentionists - the rock on this peak appears to be of poor quality.


expid: MANA14328
peakid: MANA
year: 2014
route1: NE Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Jangbu Sherpa
sponsor: Gregory Costa Search Expedition
countries: France
termnote: Abandoned at 6600m due to search mission only
campsites: BC,xxx(6600m)
agency: Adventure 6000
routememo:
  The expedition never intended to summit as they were looking for the body of Gregory Costa, who died in the avalanche in autumn 2012.


expid: PHUG11301
peakid: PHUG
year: 2011
route1: E Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
ascent1: 1st
countries: Belgium
approach: See route details
bcdate: 2011-10-10
smtdate: 2011-10-27
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2011-10-29
othersmts: Attempted Panbari (PANB-113-01); climbed approach peaks to Panbari (Hindu Himal, Lilia Peak)
campsites: BC(18/10,5250m),C1(22/10,5800m),C2(25/10,6200m),Smt(27/10)
primid: PANB11301
routememo:
  Approach: Besisahar, Dharapani, Bimthang, Saipudonda Glacier, Larkya La, Athahra Saya Khola.

  This new route over Hindu Himal east slope is the easiest way to go to the glacier plateau and to Panbari.

  The base camp is accessible with horses from Samdo for a long day.

  The snow slopes from ABC to C2 are also easy, with very few crevasses. There are other possibilities to build camp on the way.

  We climbed the 3 summits on the way to Panbari to avoid the crossing of the snow plateau and to stay on a ridge with less deep snow. All are easy snow summits.

  About the summits climbed:

  1. Hindu Himal at 6306m is the summit of the ridge and its a big dome which give access to the plateau. We traverse Hindu Himal from east side to north.

  2. Lilia Peak at 6425m, is the middle summit of a group of mountains called Tinbai by the locals of Samdo. We traversed Lilia peak from the South Ridge to the West Ridge.

  3. Athahra Saya Khola Himal (Phu Khang Go) at 6767m, is a virgin snow summit on the Chinese border and the highest of Tinbai Himal. We climbed the East Ridge [to the top at 14:30] and came back the same way.


expid: CHOY14329
peakid: CHOY
year: 2014
route1: NW side
nation: Italy
leaders: Andrea Zambaldi
sponsor: Double8 (Speed Climb of Shishapangma and Cho Oyu)
countries: Germany
termnote: Abandoned due fatal avalanche on Shishapangma
othersmts: Attempted Shishapangma (two died on 24 Sept)
routememo:
  This team planned to speed climb Shishapangma and Cho Oyu, and complete the distance between the both base camps on bikes and in running shoes within 7 days.

  Zambaldi and Haag were killed by an avalanche on Shishapangma on 24 Sept.


  From Planetmountain.com
   
  Avalanche on Shisha Pangma claims lives of Andrea Zambaldi and Sebastian Haag

  26.09.2014 by Benedikt Böhm

  On 24/09/2014 an avalanche on Shisha Pangma (8027m), Tibet, claimed the lives of Italian alpinist Andrea Zambaldi and German alpinist Sebastian Haag. Martin Maier, the third alpinist caught by the avalanche that triggered shortly below the summit, managed to survive.

  On 24 September, during the a second attempt to reach the summit of Shisha Pangma by the Double8 expedition - which aimed to climb two 8000ers in 7 days completing the 60km between Shisha Pangma and Cho Oyu on a mountain bike - an avalanche claimed the lives of Sebastian Haag and Andrea Zambaldi. Here is the message sent by Benedikt Böhm from Base Camp:

  "In the afternoon of 23.09.2014 at 16:30, Benedikt Boehm (37) and Ueli Steck (38) started from Basecamp (5.600m) the speed ascent on Shisha Pangma 8013m. The plan was to reach the summit in the morning of the 24.09.2014, together with the team mates Sebastian Haag (36), who was starting from Camp 1 (6.300m) and Andrea Zambaldi (32) who started from Camp 2 (6.800m).

  Benedikt and Ueli met Basti Haag at C1 (6.300m) as planned at 20:00 and paired up. At the same time Andrea Zambaldi left from C2 (6.800m) towards the summit. All climbers paired up below C3, at approx. 7.100m at 01:00 on 24.09.2014, reaching C3 (7.300m) at exactly 02:00.

  Being the first climbers above C2, the team had to continuously break trail through rough conditions. At 06:50 the team was only one hundred vertical meters below the summit. The spirit and motivation was high, as the team was very well working together and moving at the same speed. They were sure reaching the summit at 08:00.

  At 06:55 (Nepalese time) Sebastian and Andrea were caught in an avalanche at 7.900m, just 100m below the summit and were dragged for 600m vertical, over steep glaciers, into another section of the mountain.

  Benedikt and Ueli immediately called basecamp for help and assistance, while descending to C3, the same route they were coming up, in order to traverse to the avalanche zone and search for the other three climbers. For over four hours they were trying to approach the avalanche zone from various sides, but turned around due to the fact that there was no access to the avalanche zone. Sebastian and Andrea disappeared with the avalanche and their bodies could not be found."

  Andrea Zambaldi and Sebastian Haag were much loved and worked for the Salewa group.


expid: AMAD15301
peakid: AMAD
year: 2015
route1: SW Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Dean Staples
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Ama Dablam Expedition 2015
countries: Australia, Sweden, Switzerland, USA
bcdate: 2015-10-22
smtdate: 2015-11-04
smttime: 0900
termdate: 2015-11-06
campsites: BC(22/10,4500m),ABC(25/10,5500m),C1(27/10,5800m),C2(03/11,6100m),Smt(04/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Five members and four Sherpas left C3 for the summit at 4:45 am on 4 November, and got there at 9:00 am: the members descended to C1 between 5:00 and 7:00 pm in 40 km/hr wind which gave them clear but cold weather. Their Sherpas continued on down to BC the same day.

  The successful members were Cherry, Dillier Degelo, Hill, Jarzebowski and Staples; the Sherpas were Ang Jangbu, Chewang Dorje, Da Nuru and Sange Dorje.

  The three members who did not summit were Gillan, Heydon and Keaveney, who reached only as far C1. Heydon and Keaveney developed stomach trouble as they arrived at C1 on 1 November; they went back to BC the next day and stayed there until the climbing was over. Gillan got to C1 on 27 October, went back to BC the following day, received an e-mail message informing him that his father was dying and immediately left for home.

  Sherpas:
    Phurba Chhoter (Ang Jangbu) Sherpa, Yilajung
    Chewang Dorje Sherpa, 17/4/81, Pangboche
    Da Nuru Sherpa
    Sange Dorje Sherpa, 14/4/78, Khumjung


expid: AMAD15302
peakid: AMAD
year: 2015
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Rupert Hauer
sponsor: DAV Summit Club Ama Dablam and Kyajo Ri Expedition 2015
countries: Germany
approach: Lukla->Thami->Mende->Ama Dablam BC->Lobuje
bcdate: 2015-10-10
smtdate: 2015-10-12
termdate: 2015-10-15
termnote: Abandoned at 5800m due to lack of equipment and Sherpa skills
othersmts: Summited Kyajo Ri and Lobuche East
campsites: BC(10/10,4590m),ABC(12/10,5400m),C1(12/10,5800m),xxx(12/10,5800m)
agency: Ramdung Expedition
routememo:
  BC  10/10  4590m
  ABC 12/10  5400m
  C1  12/10  5800m
  HPt 12-14/20 5800m by R. Rogy, F. Reininger, L. Huebschmann, J. Roehr, 
             R. Hauer with Da Tenji Sherpa.

  First the team went to acclimatize on Kyajo Ri SW Ridge normal route.

  From Thami, they walked to Mende's monastery where they slept, then slept at 4550m BC. Then they slept at 5000m and at C2 at 5350m, both these days across a loose couloir. On summit day (6 Oct) they were faced with 150m rock grade 3, then a 500m snowy ridge (45/50 degrees steep maximum) to the top.

  Hauer had to manage with all the rope fixing job. Sherpas being unable to help him, he had to fix alone, then down-climb to take back his ropes and so on. They should have been provided also with 700m of rope to equip the route safely, but they never had it.

  All members with Da Tenji and Nima Tashi summited except Schrenk who was trekking around Mende's monastery.

  Ama Dablam:

  The entire team except Schrenk begun to climb the route on 12 Oct to ABC then C1 for deposits, but didn't sleep there. That day only Nima Tashi and Tashi Tshering pushed further to C2, then back to BC.

  Sherpas decided they wouldn't fix the rope on the buttress between C2 and C3, arguing bad conditons. Rupert Hauer estimated (as for Kyajo Ri) that they did not have enough climbing skills and that their team hadn't been provided with enough rope to be fixed (1200m necessary, but were provided 800m only).

  Due to the lack of personnel skills and also to unsecure appearing ice wall conditions above C3, Hauer decided to abandon the mountain on 13 Oct, went back up to C1 on 14 Oct to take back the equipment and would go next for Lobuche East instead.

  Orywa, Huebschmann, Goebel and Schrenk left Ama Dablam back to Germany.

  Lobuche East:

  Sherpas claiming they had no insurances stopped at the wrong summit (according to Rupert Hauer, real summit is at 6119m whereas most teams stop at 6020m from which 2 French paragliders were seen taking off). All other members including leader summited on the real top that day.

  Sherpas:
    Da Tenji Sherpa, Gudel, Solukhumbu, 25/11/88
    Nima Tashi Sherpa, Waku, Solukhumbu, 28/8/84
    Tashi Tshering Sherpa, Khumjung, 5/10/82


expid: AMAD15303
peakid: AMAD
year: 2015
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Andreas Neuschmid
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Ama Dablam Expedition 2015
countries: Austria
approach: Lukla->Namche->Ama Dablam BC
bcdate: 2015-10-14
smtdate: 2015-10-24
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2015-10-27
campsites: BC(14/10,4600m),C1(18/10,5800m),C2(23/10,6100m),Smt(24/10)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  BC  14/10  4600m
  C1  18/10  5800m
  C2  23/10  6100m
  Smt 24/10  by all members with 3 Sherpas at 11 am.

  All members made previous deposits to C1 and C2 respectively on 18 Oct and 23 Oct.

  Summit day: started at 2 am, summited at 11 am, back to C2 at 5 pm.

  Sherpas:
    Kusang Tenzing Sherpa, 16/5/1986, Ghunsa, Lelep-9, Taplejung
    Mingmar Sherpa, 20/8/1974, Taksindu-6, Solukhumbu
    Nuru Wangchu Sherpa, 18/8/77, Khumjung-7, Khumbu


expid: AMAD15304
peakid: AMAD
year: 2015
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: David Pujol Hernandez
sponsor: Spanish Ama Dablam Expedition 2015
approach: Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->Kalapattar->Kongma La->Chhukung->Pangboche
bcdate: 2015-11-08
smtdate: 2015-11-12
smttime: 1015
termdate: 2015-11-14
othersmts: Summited Island Peak on 5 Nov
campsites: BC(08/11,4700m),C1(10/11,5600m),C2(11/11,5900m),Smt(12/11)
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking (Climbalaya pmt)
routememo:
  BC  08/11  4700m 
  C1  10/11  5600m
  C2  11/11  5900m
  Smt 12/11  by Pujol, Policarpio and Durga at 10:15 am.

  Pujol, Policarpio and Durga [Tamang?] started from C2 at 2:30 am on 12 November. They got to the summit at 10:15 am and stayed on summit about 20 minutes, returned C2 at 3 pm. Next day 13 November all went down to BC. They were the first ones to reach summit on that day. Pujol said that there were two Austrian couples and one American with a Sherpa on the summit after them. Weather was perfect and the mountain was in good condition.


expid: AMAD15305
peakid: AMAD
year: 2015
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Ryan Waters
sponsor: Mountain Professionals Ama Dablam Expedition 2015
countries: UK
bcdate: 2015-11-17
smtdate: 2015-11-20
termdate: 2015-11-21
termnote: Abandoned at 5300m due to client wishes
campsites: BC(17/11,4500m),C1(19/11,5100m),xxx(20/11,5300m)
agency: Himalayan Trailblazer (Himalayan Guides pmt)
routememo:
  Perfect weather, no snowfall on 20 Nov, but when reaching 5300m, Follows decided she had too many things going in her personal life and she wanted to go home. Waters decided to go home too and Ang Phurba of Thami left with them.


expid: AMAD15306
peakid: AMAD
year: 2015
route1: S Ridge up, SE Ridge down
nation: France
leaders: Sebastien Rougegre
sponsor: Ama Dablam South Ridge French Expedition
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2015-10-12
smtdate: 2015-10-25
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2015-10-26
campsites: BC(12/10,4600m),ABC(22/10,5600m),C1(23/10,6200m),C2(24/10,6600m),Smt(25/10)
accidents: Slight frostbite of right-hand index finger of Damien Tomasi
achievment: 1st alpine style ascent of 'Lagunak' South Ridge of Ama Dablam
agency: Loben Expeditions
routememo:
  BC  12/10  4600m
  ABC 22/10  5600m
  C1  23/10  6200m
  C2  24/10  6600m
  Smt 25/10  by all members.

  Acclimatization on the SW Ridge normal route of Ama Dablam. Slept at ABC (5400m) on the 18 Oct, then the day after at C1 (5850m).

  First alpine-style ascent of the South Ridge from 22 Oct to 25 Oct as follows:

  22 Oct: group went to sleep afoot of the ridge at 5600m.

  23 Oct on first day, the girls took the lead through some beautiful granite-like looking rock (found some crystals caves) pitches finding quite a few remnants old fixed ropes, this until Damien took the lead for the last 4 pitches. One notable pitch around 6100m in mushroom ice up to 4+/5 ice grade (some pitons for protection). Boys had some pictures from the previous 2005 Slovenian alpine-style attempt of the ridge showing a perfect ice cave around 6200m where they cold have slept all 4 together this time! But once arrived there the ice cave didn't exist anymore, so they had to push further up to 6300m to find a bivouac place to install their tents. Sebastien and Fleur slept seated, Damien and Fanny above them hardly laying down (Fanny fell during the night, was unfortunately hooked to the belay). Little snow fall during that evening.

  24 Oct on second day, the boys with their heavy bags alternately took the lead. First pitch through an exposed straight-side traverse, then pitches through a 250m high 45-degree steep couloir (slightly steeper at the end). Then Sebastien led first through the exit ice ramp with a first pitch at 70/75 degrees, then Damien in a 60-degree bad ice one. During that section, they could again find some other remnants of old fixed ropes. Eventually Damien led through a 3 ice flutes precarious section (however with good ice for protection in the holes between it) before the proper exit presenting itself as an ice fall with difficulties up to 90 degrees on a very few meters (remnants of old fixed rope on the right side of it fixed to a rock pinnacle), both these sections representing an overall 80m pitch. On top of it at 6600m had a cold windy (SW direction) bivouac on the SW ridge.

  25 Oct: start at 7:30 am from C2, summit at 10:30 am in perfect conditions (no wind, clear sky). Here they met with an Austrian guide. Then they went down the SW Ridge back to base camp at 6 pm.

  On way down, were shocked to see bunch of remnant fixed ropes and lack of security of new one fixed anarchically under ultimate responsibility of foreign agencies. Equipped themselves their own belay of abseils.

  French grade for the route is TD+ with quite continuous difficulties up to IV rock and ice 5, with some delicate ice flute mushroom section. Overall impression: "little harder than the Brown Patey route of Aiguille sans nom in Massif du Mont Blanc which is a gentle TD+".

  Possible variant to the final ramp by an upper one may be taken by Jeff Lowe during his solo ascent? Exact very final part of the South Ridge unclimbed and seeming extremely difficult.


expid: BARU15301
peakid: BARU
year: 2015
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Zac Zaharias
sponsor: Australian Baruntse Expedition 2015
approach: See route notes
bcdate: 2015-10-12
smtdate: 2015-10-27
termdate: 2015-10-30
termnote: Abandoned at 6810m due to high winds
othersmts: Summited Mera Peak
campsites: BC(12/10,5450m),C1(20/10,6150m),C2(25/10,6400m),xxx(27/10,6810m)
agency: Wilderness Experience
routememo:
  Approach: Lukla, Hinku Valley, Sutsaki La, Panggom, Cholem Kharka, Khote, Khare, Mera Peaks, Kongmedigma, Baruntse BC

  BC  12/10  5450m
  C1  20/10  6150m (just above W Col)
  C2  25/10  6400m (just at small plateau on SE ridge)
  HPt 27/10  6810m(GPS) Robert, Zac, Keith.

  Climb abandoned on 28 Oct due to high wind (risk of frostbite)
  Fixed rope: 270m until C1

  Summited wrong and main peaks of Mera on 10 Oct. 3 peaks there most people go the central one, whereas they went on this one plus the real northern one, lying 600m further and 30m higher (2 hours to go and back from wrong top). Little bit exposed with little slab avalanching risk. Real summit for Zac, Bob Killip, Keith Scott. 4 others stopped at the wrong summit including Alan Coldwell (not on Baruntse permit).

  Then they arrived at the empty Baruntse BC (other teams would arrive later). So did all the rope fixing work up to the West Col C1 on their own.

  First tried to find a straighter route to the West Col broad face by a couloir. After 2 days fixing it, bad surprise came as it was impossible from its top to walk further right onto the snow, that one forming like a huge scoop.

  Went back up to remove these ropes on 17 Oct. On that day on descent, Zac was almost killed by a big rock fall, lukily only cutting his head (bleeding). So instead they continued by the standard route, equipping it while descending.

  Next day on 18 Oct, Zac flew to Lukla for some medical check, then flew back on the same day to the BC.

  26 Oct Bob and Zac put some fixed rope up to 6600m.

  27 Oct Bob, Zac, Keith tried for the summit. Facing strong wind (50 kh/hr during last 3 days) and knowing there was much distance remaining to the top, knew they could not make it without severe frostbite risk. Stopped at 6810m (GPS reading), then went back to C1.

  28 Oct back to BC.

  30 Oct left BC by Amphu Laptsa.

  03 Nov back to Lukla.


expid: CBAM15301
peakid: CBAM
year: 2015
route1: SE side
nation: France
leaders: Antoine Pecher
sponsor: Enam Chhopa Bamare French Expedition Autumn 2015
approach: Gongar->Lamabagar
bcdate: 2015-10-13
smtdate: 2015-10-21
termdate: 2015-10-26
termnote: Abandoned at 5200m due dry conditions and unstable weather conditions
campsites: BC(13/10,4100m),C1(20-22/10,4900m),xxx(21/10,5200m)
achievment: 1st expedition in the SE valley of Chhopa Bamare
agency: Glacier Safari Treks
routememo:
  BC  13/10    4100m
  C1  20-22/10 4900m
  HPt 21/10    5200m     
  	 
  Climb abandoned on 23 Oct 10 due tomountain dry conditions and unstable weather conditions.

  Youngsters team of French Mountaineering Federation (FFME) coached by Antoine Pecher (FFME) and Dimitry Munoz (French military group, GMHM). 

  First expedition to explore Chhopa Bamare southeastern valley mountaineering possibilities. Had tried to plan at best the expedition, but few pictures of the mountain, used Googl Earth to estimate their BC location plus some pictures of the Chinese side of the mountain. Knew they would have to define once in situ their climbing objectives.

  Approach:

  The expedition first met during approach march with post-earthquake effects (epicenter was close from the area) having to trek on the almost completely destroyed road usually linking Gongar to Lamabagar, where they stayed 3 nights. They found also remnants of Chinese workers campsites who went there for the construction of a future dam (800 inhabitants including dam workers before the earthquake, only 70 after).

  Team put 2 camps in the jungle to reach its base camp at the footstep of the upper valley summits. Also met with village people there and some military guards, the first with whom they had a Buddhist ceremony. Locals had seen so far only a Japanese party trekking the main valley and no westerners at all since the earthquake.

  Expedition time:

  Weather was like a clear sky every day then clouds/fog coming from 10 am. Found mountain not in good condition, with a lots of rock falls every day. Would have needed more snow and permafrost to keep ground more secure to progress. Chose instead to try solutions on the borders of the valley.

  On 19 Oct the team had tried from BC to access an eastern 5700m attractive subpeak. First following some scarce trails, the group then used a thalweg, seeking for some solutions to access another valley giving access to Chhopa Bamare itself. Despite GE and maps preliminary research allowing some hope, reality on the ground showed only proper rock cliffs not allowing to go further. So they stopped around 4300m, just nearby above base camp. Other tries around in the previous days reaching some hills point kairned by yak herders or locals.

  On 20 Oct the entire group went to C1. From there in the days coming, different parties tried different solutions west side of the whole valley without success.

  High point on 21 Oct. That day 2 teams attempted respectively 1 secondary summit ridge (Antoine Pecher and Antoine Lang). 1 snowy ramp giving access to the same ridge (Dimitry, Yohan, Kevin, Renaud, third team seeking for a col on the border with China (Mael, Baguet, Eric). First team abandoned facing dangerous rotten rock section at about 5200m. That day Yohan and Kevin went back to BC.

  On 22 Oct Eric and Dimitry also went to BC. Others reached a lake close to the border. On Friday 23 Oct remnant 4 down to BC. That day they went up a 4900m hill above C1, the only so far without any kairns on it.

  Globally consider the area interesting for mountaineering, despite quickly facing with committed ground, with long ridges in unstable rock (loose granite). Best conditions for attempts would be snowy one to give cohesion to the rocks. Best solution probably on the right side of the face, trying to link some rockfall exposed gullies in the lowest part to north Eastern ridge in the upper one.

  Sherpas porter team arrived on 25 Oct, all team left BC on 26 Oct. On return on 27 Oct at Lamabagar, could watch a massive rock fall showing ground still not stable. Then at Gongar, all group felt a notable earthquake effect. Team put 100m of fixed rope during return march between Lamabagar and Gongar.

  Eric Jamet going to guide on Ama Dablam.

  Renaud and Antoine to help for reconstruction.

  All other members going back to France.


expid: CHAM15301
peakid: CHAM
year: 2015
route1: N Face (to 6000m)
route2: W Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Alberto Inurrategi
sponsor: Chamlang Spanish Expedition 2015
ascent1: 6th
approach: Lukla->Kote->Khare->Mera La
bcdate: 2015-09-28
smtdate: 2015-10-19
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2015-10-23
othersmts: Summited Hongku Peak (HONK-153-01) on 9 Oct
campsites: BC(28/09,5000m),C1(17/10,6100m),C2(18/10,6600m),Smt(19/10)
achievment: 2nd alpine-style ascent of the W Ridge (last one in 1992)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  BC  28/09  5000m
  C1  17/10  6100m
  C2  18/10  6600m
  Smt 19/10  by all 3 members.

  Team acclimatized by summiting Hongku peak via the SW Ridge on 9 Oct from a previous bivouac at 6200m.

  Checked during 2 weeks conditions on the North Face. Had a try on the east side of the face, after spending a night at 5500m on the 4 Oct the day after reached 6000m at an hanging glacier where they were stopped by bad weather and snow conditions.

  After that just watched the western part of the face, but considering the apparent continous long difficulties of the route with no proper places for tents, didn't try anything. This despite also considering the route being not too much exposed to potential objective dangers (no hanging seracs there).

  After 6 days of bad weather, the trio started to climb on the SW Ridge.

  17 Oct: from base camp to C1 at 6100m. No difficulties.

  18 Oct: roped all day to go on the sharp snowy ridge up to a second biv at 6600m.

  19 Oct: after a night in not so good weather conditions, eventually decided to start at 8 am. Meeting some steep pitches, reached the top at 12:30 pm, then were back to sleep at their last camp at 2:30 pm.

  2O Oct: all members went back to base camp, reaching it at 4 pm.


expid: CHOB15301
peakid: CHOB
year: 2015
route1: W Face (up), SE side (down)
nation: Nepal
leaders: Mingma Gyalje Sherpa
sponsor: Everest Nepalese Solo Climbing
approach: Gongar->Rolwaling Valley
bcdate: 2015-10-27
smtdate: 2015-10-28
smttime: 1715
termdate: 2015-10-30
othersmts: Had permit for Beding Go
campsites: BC(27/10,6500m),Biv1(28/10,6500m),Biv2(29/10,6400m),Smt(28/10)
achievment: 1st ascent of West Face of Chobutse; 1st solo ascent by a Sherpa of a technical route
agency: Dreamers Destination Treks
routememo:
  BC  27/10  5300m
  Bv1 28/10  6500m
  Bv2 29/10  6400m
  Smt 28/10  by Mingma Gyalje Sherpa at 5:15 pm.

  Took 2 60m ropes, 2 Cobra ice axes and no bivouac gear.

  On 28 Oct, started 4 am, climbed up a 200m long rocky ridge, then down-climbed 60m to reach the snow. Proper beginning of the face at 5:30 am, with first 100m little step (45 degrees), then straight up (continous 75 to 80 degrees all the way up). At 2 places created some small platforms to stay and relax, otherwise no place to put a tent. Ice covered by snow two layers, so had to climb "on a lateral way", never straight to avoid to destablilize this particular snow layers.

  Reached summit of the West Face at 5 pm, then main summit at 5:15 pm through a flat ridge (not corniced). First tried to descend by the South Ridge, but after a while trapped in complete white-out. So waited a little, but nothing happened. Tried to move down on the SE side, then tried shelter under a little ice serac at around 6500m reached around 6:30 pm. Spent one night there with no tent, food, gas, water nothing! Cold night waiting for the day.

  On 29 Oct weather still cloudy! Around 11:30 am, with little visibility could see 2 small mountains in front of him, but couldn't recognize it despite being his homeland. So at some ice serac just followed an azimuth and thus went 100m down. At the end of it, didn't see he was reaching soem snow ice overhanging border: his legs breaking it, he fell down some 10 feet. Quite shocked after that, he just traversed from there some 10 horizontal meters to avoid the overhang above him.  2nd night without equipment curled up to economize his energy, that night becoming windy compared with the previous one. During the night, in newly clear sky conditions could see everything (was looking his watch all night long), but about 4 am weather went covered again! Around 6 am, went a little visible, made phone calls to his friends for helicopter rescue, but no hope helicopter could pick him up in these cloudy conditions. Stayed there anyway feeling like "If I go down I just have to die." Luckily helicopter came around 7:30 am, [and took him] back to Na 5 minutes later. The day after on 31 Oct he flew back to Kathmandu by helicopter for some minor cares in CIWEC hospital (one blister on a finger foot)

  First ever technical solo ascent by a Nepali Sherpa. In his website, Mingma considers it however as his most dangerous climb and also his biggest mistake! Thought he could climb the face up and down within the same day.

  This project was otherwise part of a wider project built with 3 other Sherpas friends of Rolwaling, aiming to climb 3 mountains in 3 days (actually done: Langdak, Raungsiyar and Thakargo East), plus this solo ascent of Chobutse. Goal was to make hobby more popular amongst younger Nepalis and also make Rolwaling better known. Mingma thinks mountaineering so far was just being a professional activity for older Nepalis. Youngsters now begin to enjoy it more as a hobby, doing ice and rock climbing by themselves.

  Next: Nanga Parbat in summer 2016 for Mingma, as his mother forbids him to try it in winter.


expid: CHUG15301
peakid: CHUG
year: 2015
route1: NW Face (new rte)
route2: NW Face (2nd new rte) (to 5800m)
route3: NW Face (3rd new rte) (to 6000m)
nation: Slovenia
leaders: Luka Strazar
sponsor: Slovenian Expedition to Chukyima Go
approach: Gongar->Rolwaling Valley
bcdate: 2015-10-06
smtdate: 2015-10-16
smttime: 0800
termdate: 2015-10-27
campsites: BC(06/10,4020m),ABC(14/10,5100m),Smt(16/10)
achievment: New route on NW Face, two attempts of new routes on same NW Face
agency: Dreamers Destination Treks
routememo:
  BC  06/10     4020 (Na village)
  ABC 14.10     5100m 
  HPt 15, 23/10 5800m, 6000m Bajde and Kramer
  Smt 16/10     by Strazar and Mucic at 8 am.

  Acclimatization all together on 5945m peak lying north of Chukyima Go (usual acclimatization peak). By the 500m NW Face snow ice ramp (average 50/60 degrees with some 80-degree bits), through right exit on the shoulder, then easy ridge north to summit in traverse. Back by the same route. Started from ABC, at 5/6 am, on top at around 12 am, back to ABC around 3 pm. Then at 7 pm to Na BC.

  On Chukyima Go, 1st team of Strazar and Mucic summited by new route. Started from ABC on 15 Oct around 5 am, all day climbing. 16 Oct on top around 8 am, down to BC same day at 6 pm. [M5, 1 pitch. Water ice, grade 4 in ice. Like 800m, same difficult range from Kastelic route 2014]. 

  2nd team of Bajde and Kramer attempted 2 other new routes.

  15 Oct started also 5 am for right attempt up to 5800m approx. At noon at high point, then down in ABC at 4 pm. 60 to 80-degree snow and ice. Hard ice. Not so good conditions, with deep snow. Lots of spindrifts.  

  On 23 Oct new attempt by same descent route of 1st team (more on the left) up to around 6000m. Started 3 am from ABC, high point at 1 pm, returned to ABC at 4:30 pm. More ice on the this attempt, up to 80 degrees. More recommendable, no spindrifts, weather nicer, but more cold on their attempt day.


expid: LUNR15301
peakid: LUNR
year: 2015
route1: W Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Conrad Anker
sponsor: Jobo Rinjang Expedition
countries: Austria, Switzerland
approach: Thami Valley->Khumbri
bcdate: 2015-11-02
smtdate: 2015-11-13
termdate: 2015-11-16
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to strong wind
campsites: BC(02/11,5000m),ABC(05/11,5500m),Biv(05/11,6100m),xxx(13/11,6500m)
routememo:
  The two members, Conrad Anker and David Lama, were accompanied to BC by two photographers, Austrian Martin Hanslmyar and Swiss Menk Rufibach, but no one went above BC on this expedition except the climbing members.

  The entire team flew to Lukla on 28th October and trekked into the Thami valley. They established their BC on 2 November at 5000m on the south side of the junction of the Lunag and Nangpa Glaciers, and two days later placed on ABC five hundred meters higher up the Lunag Glacier. On the 5th, they bivouacked briefly at 6100m, as part of their acclimatization program, then descended to BC.

  From the 7th to the 10th, they acclimatized in the area. On the 11th they moved back to ABC, on the 12th moved up to their bivouac at 6100m, and on November 13 climbed to their high point of 6500m, but immediately returned to their bivouac at 6100m.

  They had expected to go all the way to the West Summit of Lunag, the highest point on Lunag Ri at 6907m, that day the 13th. But they had not planned to have to cope with fierce cold winds: it was gusting at 70 km/hr in temperature down to -20 Centrigrade. They had set out for the summit at 3:00 am expecting to reach the top and return to their bivouac the same afternoon, so took no gear for another night out. They realized at 3:00 pm that this was not possible.

  They were back in ABC on the 14th, in BC on the 15th, left BC on the 16th for Lukla, and were in Kathmandu on the 19th.

  But they had not abandoned Lunag Ri. They were already making plans to return to the mountain in the following spring, when the weather would be warmer and the daylight hours longer.


expid: MANA15315
peakid: MANA
year: 2015
route1: NE Face
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Guy Cotter
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Manaslu Expedition 2015
countries: Australia, Brazil, Colombia, Norway, Switzerland, UK, USA
bcdate: 2015-09-08
smtdate: 2015-09-27
termdate: 2015-10-01
termnote: Abandoned at 6800m due to deep snow
campsites: BC(08/09,4830m),C1(11/09,5550m),C2(17/09,6240m),C3(27/09,6800m),xxx
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  C3 was occupied by Sherpas only: no member reached it. The Sherpas pitched the camp at 6800m on 27 Sept and slept there that night. But they abandoned it the next day because there was too much snow there; they left the camp in place, hoping it could be reoccupied later. But it never was reoccupied. Sherpas went up to it only to dismantle it.

  Because of continued snowfall, and only a two-day window of good weather forecast for 30 Sept and 1 Oct for the near future, the expedition abandoned their attempt on the mountain on 28 Sept and left BC on 1 Oct. 

  Russell Brice and Phil Crampton also called off their expeditions at the same time. The three leaders decided it was unsafe to continue climbing because of the potential serious danger from avlaanching in the unusually warm weather they were experiencing.


expid: MANA15307
peakid: MANA
year: 2015
route1: NE Face
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience Manaslu Expedition 2015
countries: Argentina, Canada, Japan, UK, USA
bcdate: 2015-09-02
smtdate: 2015-09-24
termdate: 2015-09-30
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to deep snow and avalanche danger
campsites: BC(02/09,4800m),C1(07/09,5604m),C2(16/09,6276m),C3(23/09,6900m),xxx(24/09,7200m)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  Sherpas climbed up to 7200m, but found snow to deep pitch to C4 on 24th Sept. Then bad weather set in with snow blowing around vigilantly. Everyone returned to BC on 25 Sept. Now too great of an avalanche danger.

  From Himex Dispatch #8

  We should have all been to the summit and be on the way back down to BC, but I am afraid that this is not the case.

  All the members made it up to C3 and the Sherpas were pushing the route up towards C4. All was going to plan but then as the Sherpas were reaching the upper slopes and the beginning of the traverse towards C4 things took a turn for the worse. Nima one of our strongest Sherpas who was also using oxygen was pushing the route, however we were encountering the same sort of snow conditions that we experienced on Broad Peak, waist deep sugar snow. Nima pushed through this for over 800m put then he was getting worried about his safety and so decided to stop. The problem was how to find a stable and reliable belay in this snow. But another problem was soon to become apparent. Behind him 5 more Sherpas crossed the snow bridge across a crevasse that we have never experienced before. We have always just stepped across this crevasse on previous expeditions, but this year there was a narrow snow bridge. As Namgel the seventh Sherpa to cross this bridge was making his way up the rope, the bridge collapsed complete with Namgel on it. Fortunately he is fine, but this created a delicate moment as he was now about 5m down in the crevasse, the wind was blowing strongly, there are 6 Sherpas above the crevasse and another 6 or seven below the crevasse. And now there is a 4m wide and 100m long gaping hole. The Sherpas that were below were able to get Namgel out, but now what to do with the guys above. They made a high traverse to a point where they could still see a small bridge across the crevasse, and then managed to slither across this small bridge and so were able to re-join the original fixed ropes.

  But now we have a problem, will this small bridge hold for teams to make a route to C4 ? But also this small bridge is under the active ice cliffs above. Do we want to put everyone in this danger ? On the day, all the Sherpas were more pleased to return to C2 where it was safe, and of course our members were safe in C3. The next decision was to decide if we could safely fix rope to C4 as well as carry loads on the 25th. After much discussion it was decided that this was not possible, so this would mean that we would not be able to attempt the summit on 26, the last day before the jet winds are expected to come in.

  Reluctantly everyone returned to BC yesterday as it is not a good idea to be staying at C3 for the next week.

  This prompted yet another rope fixing meeting in my camp with leaders from most camps attending. Himex has already put 30 man days towards the rope fixing and Altitude Junkies have put 33 man days along with Seven Summits who have put 9 man days. It was previously agreed that AJ and Himex would push the route towards C4, but now we can no longer afford to put more man days towards this effort for the benefit of all expeditions as we also need to get our own equipment up the hill. At this latest meeting it was agreed that Seven Summits would once attempt to push the route past the offending crevasse and through the deep snow to C4. Let’s hope that they can do this, and this morning Adventure Consultants also offered to send 4 Sherpas to help with this task.

  We are all expecting strong winds for the 27 – 29 so we are unsure when these Sherpas will have conditions that allow this work to be done. But for us, we will now rest for a few days and will then go back up to C3 to be in a position to go for the summit on 02 Oct. It appears that there is a calm period on 01 and 02 of Oct before the winds will return again. Having put so much effort in breaking trail so far, we are quite content to follow behind other teams who we hope will reach the summit on the first.

  It is interesting to experience these new conditions at this altitude. This is a new phenomenon that I suspect that high altitude expeditioners will have to contend with in future years. Is this because of the heavy snow falls this last spring, or is it because the average freezing level is going to a higher altitude, or is it because average temperatures seem to be much higher these last few months. A debate for the future.

  Regards Russ


expid: MUKT15301
peakid: MUKT
year: 2015
route1: N Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Adrian Summers
sponsor: KE Adventure Mukut Himal Expedition (Group A)
ascent1: 2nd
countries: Canada
approach: Dunai->Kakkot->Mukut->Mukut BC
bcdate: 2015-10-14
smtdate: 2015-10-17
termdate: 2015-10-18
campsites: BC(14/10,5180m),Smt(17/10)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  First ascent of Mukut Himal on 17 Oct by: Mark Aitken, Sian Beaty, Alexander Duhault, Mark Soares with 3 Sherpas.

  Sherpas went 4 days before the main team to equip most 600m of the route in fixed rope.

  Approach through Mu La (the highlight for most of the unexperienced members).

  Difficulties: 45/50-degree slopes below col on the North Ridge. North Ridge itself 30/35 degrees. Scottish winter grade 3 (PD+)

  All 3 Sherpas from Kharikhola below Lukla:
    Kami Sherpa
    Mingma Dorje Sherpa
    Gelgin Sherpa


expid: NILS15301
peakid: NILS
year: 2015
route1: S Face (up), SW Ridge (down)
nation: Austria
leaders: Hansjoerg Auer
sponsor: Austrian Nilgiri South Expedition 2015
ascent1: 2nd
approach: Around Annapurna trail
bcdate: 2015-10-11
smtdate: 2015-10-25
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2015-10-29
agency: Dream Himalaya Adventures
campsites:
  BC(11/10,4600m),ABC(17-18/10,5300m),Biv1(23/10,6500m),Biv2(24/10,6740m),Biv3(25/10,6500m),Smt(25/10)

routememo:
  Route: S Face of NILS to W Face/S Ridge/NW Ridge of Nilgiri "Spire"to E Ridge of NILS up, SW ridge of NILS down.  

  BC  11/10  4600m
  ABC 17-18/10 5300m (acclimatization)
      22/10  5200m (ascent)
  Bv1 23/10  6500m
  Bv2 24/10  6740m
  Bv3 25/10  6500m
  Smt 25/10  by all 3 members.    

  Had first period of hard work to erect a higher base camp than usual, so that they could better see the South Face.

  Then had to acclimatize properly. Hauer, just back from Mt. Kenya, had already acclimatized, but not his companions. Trio had 2 nights at 5300m at foot of the South Face, with relatively a few rock falls.

  Then rested at BC before starting on 22 Oct afternoon when they came to sleep at their ABC, lower this time to avoid any rock fall.

  On 23 Oct started at 5400m bergshrund, using the same ramp the Japanese did in 1981, that one appearing to be exposed just everywhere! Ramp like 60-degree average with some bits at 90 degrees.

  At 6000m chose to continue on their right, climbing through harder ground of the western face of newly christened "Nilgiri Spire" (southeastern subpeak of Nilgiri South, 6675m on Finn map, 6780m with their GPS watch) to reach a big serac system at about 6500m where they found a bivouac place. Difficulties up to M5 and 70 degrees.

  On 24 Oct started at 6 am, went up right to reach the S Ridge of Nilgiri Spire at 6000m, reaching its steep summit at 11 am. Begun to traverse down saddle between Nilgiri South and Nilgiri Spire through an exposed sharp corniced ridge, with a notable 30m overhanging abseil. Reached at 3 pm a nice comfortable flat bivouac place at 6740m below the main summit. That night Gerhard had a bad night, showing probable first signs of AMS, knowing this one and the previous one were cold and windy.

  On 25 Oct start at 8 am, Gerhard being very slow moving. Reached the top at 11 am after a final steep pitch on a cornice. Started the descent by the southwest ridge. They expected it to be easy but in reality it wasn't. On first part, had to down climbed and abseil through a steep hanging glacier down to 6500m. After a while, Gerhard being super exhausted, other two recognized they had to stop and at 3 pm afforded a bivouac there to help him to recover, motivationg him "its close." Gerhard apparently not being aware anymore about the situation. On 26 Oct weather forecast was predicting 75 km/hr winds.

  On 26 Oct after a new cold night, the wind got effectively stronger and trio started at 8 am to descend through a snow/ice sharp ridge traverse, climbing unroped to remain fast as much as possible, this until the end of the snow. From there, at a 6100m small step at 2 pm. Gerhard, downclimbing it, fell on the southeast side, enduring a 800m fall in a tortured complex couloir.

  Both shocked members continued further and abseiled down 3 times to an ice field, then continued downclimbing, putting new belays and abseils for the last part. All the way down could find and pictured traces of their friend fall. At 6 pm duo reached the glacier, then BC at 9 pm for a big break.

  On 27 Oct talking with the parents of Gerhard, the parents asked 2 survivors to find and take back the body their lost son, both members trying to explain them the body was certainly destroyed after the fall and there was nothing to save. A helicopter rescue was nevertheless decided to respect parents wish.

  On 28 Oct it snowed down to 3500m, rendering heli-search impossible.

  On 29 Oct due went down from BC to Deurali through Thulobugin pass in precarious snow conditions for the porters.

  On 30 Oct one search flight could be made in the morning towards the footstep of the South Face to eventually find nothing, the mountain climbed in dry conditions being snow covered with snow. That same day, duo was helicopter evacuated to Kathmandu.

  1st ascent of the South Face, 1st ascent of Nilgiri Spire, 1st traverse of the peaks.
   
  Traverse of both Nilgiri Spire to South "very nice." Faced with dry conditions, but strangely found a lots of "blank ice" (very strong old ice), more than everywhere else in their previous expeditions!  

  At first, believed they could have also gone down by the normal route (to Annapurna I BC), but SW Ridge seemed like a more direct route and also more secure knowing their friend's situation. 

  2 surviving members in same time happy for the route and very sad for the loss of their friend. "That's alpine-style ascents risk."

achievment:
  1st ascent of the South Face, 1st ascent of the southeastern (Nilgiri Spire) peak, 1st traverse of both peaks


expid: NUPT15301
peakid: NUPT
year: 2015
route1: S Face (Bonington rte)
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Ueli Steck
sponsor: Steck Nuptse Expedition 2015
countries: USA
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2015-10-11
smtdate: 2015-10-23
termdate: 2015-10-25
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to wind and snow conditions
othersmts: Summited Cholatse and Chhukung Ri
campsites: BC(11/10,4700m),xxx(23-24/10,6900m)
agency: Royal Orchid Treks
routememo:
  Ueli shared his permit with French youngsters team (Helias Millerioux and Benoit Guigonnet), so both of those teams mixed together during the expedition time.

  During their acclimatization, Ueli went to Chhukung Ri from Chhukung in 1:10 up and down (meaning 1000m/hr rhythm) and also on Lobuche East. Ueli also went on Cholatse's North Face (his first time there) with Tenji Sherpa, summiting on 7 Oct. Tenji is the first Sherpa to climb the North Face of Cholatse, which Ueli is very happy with.

  On 17 Oct Ben and Ueli had some rock climbing block session.

  On 21 Oct Ben went with Colin Haley on the Bonington route up to 6050m.

  Meanwhile Helias went with Ueli and Kilian Jornet for a running session: starting from Chhukung at 7:30 am, they reached Amphu Lapcha La at 11 am then followed the SE Ridge of a 6230m peak (On Finn Map, located S of Imja Tsho Lake, NW of Amphu Lapcha La) reached at 1 pm.

  On 23 Oct considering their low chances on their both objectives (new route for the French between "Are you experienced" and "Zorro (unclimbed) ridge," Babanov route for Ueli and Colin), all 4 members teamed up together for the Bonington route. Starting at 4:30 am from Chhukung, Ueli did the tracks all way long from the footstep of the face (others hardly managing to follow him behind) until they reached a bivouac place at 6900m at 2 pm (10:30 am for 220m positive).

  Difficulty of the route like French grade D, similar to Jaeger/Macho couloirs of Mont Blanc du Tacul.

  After a windy (50m/h) cold night, dealing with a very uncertain weather forecast, all members decided to go down. Ueli straight down climbing the whole route, others first hesitating to put abseils in the steepest section (only Ben did indeed put some when his 2 other mates chose to do like Ueli). "If we would have been just between us, we would have definitely put abseils" reports Millerioux. Same day all were back safely in Chhukung. 

  One day after, Ueli offered the helicopter to the both teams to go straight back to Kathmandu.


expid: OMBG15301
peakid: OMBG
year: 2015
route1: SW Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Angel Salamanca
sponsor: Homeless Alpinist to Ombigaichen
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2015-10-23
termdate: 2015-10-25
termnote: Did not attempt due to dangerous conditions
othersmts: Summited Peak 6420m on 25 Oct by Salamanca and Martinez
campsites: BC(23/10,5300m),Pk6420m.Smt(25/10)
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
routememo:
  21 Oct: went to Ama Dablam base camp, then up to 5300m on the normal route and back to Pangboche.

  22 Oct: went to an other place nearby Ama Dablam BC to sleep (4900m).

  23 Oct: went to their BC below the SW Face of Ombigaichen at 5300m. Here, both found the face in too dangerous conditions, so preferred instead to try for a possibly unclimbed peak at 6420m lying further to the south.

  24 Oct: went for further acclimatization at 5600m then back to BC.

  25 Oct: Summmit day start at 1 am, summited at 11 am, via North Ridge from the west side up and down. Pictures and movies taken 30m below the top, having no battery left the summit (cold night).

  Same day removed their 5300m BC to 4600m Ama Dablam BC (reached that last placed at 9 pm, both very tired).

  North Ridge: apporoach on crevassed glacier covered with snow. Route like 700m  high (5700m to summit), average slope 50 degrees with some steep 70-degree sections. Not much of a difficult route, but some exposure. Faced with crushed snow sometimes, in fact slabs, otherwise some deep snow sections.

  No ascents of that peak now so far, likely a first ascent.

  Found lots of bad moraines during approach march to ABC.

  First experience of 6000m for Jorge. Angel already in Andes and in the Himalayas.


expid: TSAR15301
peakid: TSAR
year: 2015
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Romania
leaders: Constantin Lacatusu
sponsor: Romanian Tsartse Expedition Autumn 2015
approach: Via Hidden Valley near by Dhaulagiri
bcdate: 2015-10-23
smtdate: 2015-10-28
termdate: 2015-11-06
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to avalanche danger
campsites: BC(23/10,5000m),ABC(25/10,5500m),C1(28/10,6100m),xxx
agency: Multi Adventure
routememo:
  BC  in Hidden Valley north of Dhaulagiri I
  ABC near lake south of Tsartse 
  C1  below SE Ridge
  HPt at C1.

  This was Lacatusu's fifth attempt on the illusive Mt. Tsartse, which is in "Hidden Valley" just north of Dhaulagiri I, and his second as team leader, and again he was unsuccessful. Does he intend to come back and try again? "We will see. Not sure now," was his answer in early December. No one else has succeeded either.

  The team were able to establish their base camp in Hidden Valley at 5000m, three days earlier than planned, and they made advance base camp and C1 only a few days later. But as they pitched C1 at 6100m on 28 October, the weather started deteriorating, and they never had a window for a safe summit attempt. 6100m reached by Lacatusu and Cristian Gruia turned out to be the highest point they ever managed to reach. Despite attempts to go back up, frequent new snowfall, winds of up to 70 km/hr and the risk of slab avalanches led them abandon the climb on 4 November. They left BC on the 6th.

  Their climbing route had been the same as Lacatusu had followed in 2006 and 2014: it involved a climb to Tashi Kang (6386m), descent to the central glacier at 6000m, a traverse of the glacier, and ascent of the final section of the SE Ridge to Tsartse's summit.

  One member of the small team was put out of action after the team had slept in ABC (5500m) by a serious lung infection.


expid: NUPT15302
peakid: NUPT
year: 2015
route1: S Face (Bonington rte)
nation: France
leaders: Helias Millerioux
sponsor: French Nuptse Expedition 2015
approach: Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2015-09-30
smtdate: 2015-10-23
termdate: 2015-10-25
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to wind and snow conditions
othersmts: Summited Island Peak by Millerioux
campsites: BC(30/09,4730m),xxx(23-24/10,6900m)
agency: Royal Orchid Treks
routememo:
  BC  30/09  at Chhukung (4730)
  HPt 24/10  6900m by all members.

  Ueli Steck shared his permit with French youngsters team (Helias Millerioux and Benoit Guigonnet), so both of those teams mixed together during the expedition time.

  Acclimatization first on small bumps afoot of Nuptse’s South Face. Considered the face looking in dry bad conditions. 

  Then went on Island Peak North Col by the east trail, bivouacked on the North Ridge at 6000m on the 6 Oct. The day after they went back on their steps then descended by west couloir of North Col until Lhotse South Face base camp (met with Korean expedition there). 

  Team descended back to Namche for some rest during a bad weather period. 

  Helias went for a second time on Island Peak with Colin, traversing from N Ridge up to normal route down (summit on 17 Oct). 

  Meanwhile Ben and Ueli had some rock climbing block session.

  On 21 Oct Ben went with Colin Haley on the Bonington route up to 6050m.

  Meanwhile Helias went with Ueli and Kilian Jornet for a running session: starting from Chhukung at 7:30 am, they reached Amphu Lapcha La at 11 am then followed the SE Ridge of a 6230m peak (On Finn Map, located S of Imja Tsho Lake, NW of Amphu Lapcha La) reached at 1 pm.

  On 23 Oct considering their low chances on their both objectives (new route for the French between "Are you experienced" and "Zorro (unclimbed) ridge," Babanov route for Ueli and Colin), all 4 members teamed up together for the Bonington route. Starting at 4:30 am from Chhukung, Ueli did the tracks all way long from the footstep of the face (others hardly managing to follow him behind) until they reached a bivouac place at 6900m at 2 pm (10:30 am for 220m positive).

  Difficulty of the route like French grade D, similar to Jaeger/Macho couloirs of Mont Blanc du Tacul.

  After a windy (50m/h) cold night, dealing with a very uncertain weather forecast, all members decided to go down. Ueli straight down climbing the whole route, others first hesitating to put abseils in the steepest section (only Ben did indeed put some when his 2 other mates chose to do like Ueli). "If we would have been just between us, we would have definitely put abseils" reports Millerioux. Same day all were back safely in Chhukung. 

  One day after, Ueli offered the helicopter to the both teams to go straight back to Kathmandu.


expid: TAWO15301
peakid: TAWO
year: 2015
route1: N Buttress (up), SE Face (down)
nation: USA
leaders: Justin Griffin
sponsor: American Tawoche Expedition Autumn 2015
bcdate: 2015-11-07
smtdate: 2015-11-14
termdate: 2015-11-15
termnote: Abandoned at 6380m on summit plateau due to crevasses and avalanche danger
campsites: BC(07/11),Biv1(09/11,5000m),Biv2(12/11),Biv3(13/11),xxx(6380m,14/11)
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
routememo:
  From Alpinist (posted November 20, 2015):

  On November 14 at approximately 1:30 pm, Justin Griffin slipped and fell 100 meters to his death while descending from the summit plateau of Taboche (6541m; also called Tawoche) in Nepal's Khumbu Himal region. Griffin and Skiy DeTray, a former para-rescueman with the US Air Force, had just completed a new route up the demanding peak's North Buttress over five days.


  Note by DeTray:

  At 6 am on November 14 we crested the North Buttress onto the summit plateau. The sun shined, the sky was blue and there was no wind. After topping the technical difficulties, we failed to realize the true summit of Taboche was another twelve-hour slog up crevasse-riddled avalanche slopes. Justin and I looked at each other and knew our climb was over.

  We descended unroped most of the way down the peak's East Face gully.

  We were both tired and our ice axes were worn to a nub from all the dry tooling. Then, less than 100 meters from taking our harnesses off, I saw Justin turn around to downclimb an easy Grade 2, bullet-hard, slippery ice step. He lost his footing and was gone.


expid: TLNG15301
peakid: TLNG
year: 2015
route1: NW Face-W Face (to 7100m)
route2: NNW Pillar (up), W side (down)
nation: Ukraine
leaders: Mikhail Fomin
sponsor: Ukrainian Talung Expedition 2015
bcdate: 2015-09-28
smtdate: 2015-10-23
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2015-10-25
othersmts: Summited Boktoh Peak
campsites:
  BC(28/09),Biv1(18/10,5850m),Biv2(19/10,6050m),Biv3(20/10,6200m),Biv4(21/10,6600m),Biv5(22/10,6900m),Smt(23/10)

routememo:
  Fomin and Balabanov arrived at base camp in Oktang on 28 Sept. They spent two weeks acclimatizing by first climbing Boktoh Peak and then the normal route on Talung to (NW Face-W Face) to 7100m

  On 18 Oct they started their climb from the base of the NNW Pillar at 5600m. They made a series of 5 bivouacs at 5850m, 6050m, 6200m, 6600m and 6900m and finally summited on 23 Oct at 2 pm. They descended down to the col between Talung and Kabru and then down to west side making one bivouac at 6700m.


expid: ACHN15302
peakid: ACHN
year: 2015
route1: N Ridge-W Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
sponsor: Paulo Aichyn Expedition 2015
ascent1: 2nd
approach: Simikot->Nying Khola
smtdate: 2015-09-25
smttime: 1330
campsites: Smt(25/09)
agency: Yeti Adventure
routememo:
  Limi Himal, Ashvin, WNW Ridge (Paulo Grobel):

  Landing just after dawn at Simikot airstrip with all our baggage was already a great success.

  Our goal was to explore the Limi Group, a large "blank on the map" with more than 15 peaks over 6000m (see also AAJ 2015) and make the first ascent of Ashvin (6055m). However, early on the approach we were surprised to meet a young team of Japanese mountaineers from Doshisha University, returning from making the first ascent of this mountain from the valley of the Chuwa Khola. I was happy for their success because it marks another stage in my project to promote climbing in West Nepal, but also disappointed because it was me who proposed that this peak be opened, and I had hoped to climb it as far back as the spring of 2013. We would follow the same route as the Japanese on the mountain, though our approach to the base would be different. Ashvin has two summits, north and south, the former a less inspiring peak. The Ashvins are the two Vedic gods in Hindu mythology, and unfortunately a spelling mistake has crept into the official list of open peaks, on which the ministry refers to the mountain Aichyn, a name without meaning.

  On September 24, from a high camp, Hugues De Varax with Rajan Lama, Dhan Magar with Marie Christine Duchateau, Jean-Paul Charpentier with Pierre Derieux, and Daniel Gascard, Magali Gorce, and I reached the summit of Ashvin North (30°17'35"N, 81°52'22"E, 6,025m, F). The following day De Varax with Dhan Magar, Charpentier with Derieux, and Rajan Lama and I first climbed the northeast ridge of a subsidiary peak Kaya Ko Himal, then descended from that summit southeast to what we called Cosmos Col, and finally finished up the west ridge of Ashvin (30°16'15"N, 81°51'28"E, PD).

  As part of the Limi Himal Project, my website soon will have a page where all can share their experiences in this area. It may go some way toward convincing the Nepalese government to open the entire range under a special permit system, encouraging mountaineers to think "outside the box," have adventures in this remote area, and in so doing help improve its economic situation. Currently only Ashvin and Ardung (6034m) are on the permitted list in this region.


expid: HIML15302
peakid: HIML
year: 2015
route1: W Ridge from SW
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
sponsor: Paulo Himlung Expedition 2015
countries: Belgium, Italy, Switzerland
smtdate: 2015-10-29
smttime: 1015
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3(28/10,6300m),Smt(29/10)
agency: Yeti Adventure
routememo:
  Notes about 29 Oct summit day:

  - Isabelle Guillaume and Karma are the first summit around 10:15.
  - Fabrice Durand initially roped with Isabelle had cold feet and came back with
    Dorje, Karma continued on with Guillaume.
  - Manu Matergia roped with Deepen stopped not very far from the top (from 100m).
  - Alex Quarrey initially with Duche, continue to the summit with Rajan. Duche
    reached the shoulder and went down with Matergia.
  - Francois with Jangbu reach the summit.
  - Francois and Dhan and also reached the top, the second time for Dhan Magar.
  - Luc Villaume and Bikram reach the altitude of 7000m; bad weather arrives 
    and Luke turns back.
  - Abdelak Medallel, not very fit in the morning, leaves camp with Rajan, then
    quickly turns around.
  - Vero Barrat, roped with Denis will have vision problems after the first steep
    slope.
  - Grobel with Charlie Dubois, after the steep slopes of departure, cross the pass 
    to go up high enough the big hill. They stop at 6800m just before the sun 
    finally warms them. The conditions: wind + cold + length of effort is too 
    difficult for they quietly return to camp.


expid: MANA15304
peakid: MANA
year: 2015
route1: NE Face
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: SummitClimb Manaslu Expedition 2015
countries: Australia, Austria, Canada, France, Japan
bcdate: 2015-09-06
smtdate: 2015-09-30
termdate: 2015-10-04
campsites: BC(06/09,4700m),C1(08/09,5750m),C2(14/09,6400m),C3(29/09,6800m),C4(29/09,7400m),Smt(30/09,01/10)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  SummitClimb Manaslu Expedition 2015:

  02 Sep - helicopter flight to Samagaon (3500m)
  04 Sep - hiked to Manaslu BC site (4700m), then returned to Samagaon
  06 Sep - hiked to Manaslu BC
  08 Sep - 6 members climbed to C1 (5750m), 2 more members arrived at BC
  10 Sep - rest day at C1
  11 Sep - returned to BC due to heavy storm, deep snow
  12 Sep - rested at BC
  13 Sep - climbed to C1
  14 Sep - 6 members morning climb to C2 (6400m)
  15 Sep - 6 members in C2 (2 want to descend, 4 want to go up)
  17 Sep - C2 members resting; slab avalanche strikes above C2
  18 Sep - heavy snow in C2, so team decides to descend to BC
  24 Sep - team begins summit push planning 5-day ascent
             BC -> C1 -> C2 -> C3 -> C4 to Summit -> C2
  25 Sep - Sherpa rope-fixers return to BC, due to large crevasse above C3 that
             needs ladders to cross.
  26 Sep - summit team climbs to C1
  27 Sep - summit team climbs to C2
  28 Sep - wind and snow in C2 (team stays in C2)
  29 Sep - Sherpas fix rope across crevasse
           Trevana and Callet climb to C4 (7400m), will attempt summit this evening
           Mazur, Benedek, Bremond and Minimaya climb to C3 (6800m)
  30 Sep - Trevana and Callet summit (Trevana with the Ecuadorian at 10:30 am)
           Mazur, Benedek, Bremond and Minimaya climb to C4
  01 Oct - Mazur, Benedek, Bremond and Minimaya summit with Jangbu and Nga Tenji

  Benedek after summiting died in his sleep that night in C4 from AMS. Bremond also suffered from AMS in C4; he was brought down to C3 by Sherpas, then evacuated next day from C3 for AMS by helicopter.


expid: BARU15302
peakid: BARU
year: 2015
route1: SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: SummitClimb Baruntse Expedition 2015
countries: Australia, Finland, Sweden
approach: Lukla->Chutang->Kote->Mera La->Baruntse BC->Amphu Laptsa
bcdate: 2015-10-29
smtdate: 2015-11-04
termdate: 2015-11-06
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to impassable crevasse
othersmts: Summited Mera Peak on 25 Oct
campsites: BC(29/10,5450m),C1(02/11,6100m),C2(03/11,6350m),xxx(04/11,7000m)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  SummitClimb Baruntse & Mera Peak Expedition 2015:

  14 Oct - flight to Lukla, trekked to Chutang (3500m)
  16 Oct - trekked to top of Chetra La (4600m)
  17 Oct - trekked to Kote
  20 Oct - trekked to Khare (4900m)
  22 Oct - trekked to Naulekh Tsho
  23 Oct - glacier training on Naulekh Glacier
  24 Oct - climbed to Mera Peak high camp (5800m)
  25 Oct - summited Mera Peak (9 members and 4 Sherpas)
  29 Oct - arrived at Baruntse BC (5450m)
  31 Oct - climbed to C1 site to acclimatize, back to BC
  02 Nov - climbed to C1 (6200m)
  03 Nov - climbed to C2 (6350m) (8 members and 4 Sherpas)
  04 Nov - climbed to 7000m (who climbed?)
  05 Nov - descended to BC in high winds and snow
  06 Nov - left BC and trekked to Amphu Laptsa high camp (5670m)
  07 Nov - crossed Amphu Laptsa and descended to Chhukung village


expid: AMAD15307
peakid: AMAD
year: 2015
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Dani Fuller
sponsor: SummitClimb Ama Dablam Expedition 2015
countries: Australia, Germany, Ireland, Israel, Sweden, Poland, Switzerland, USA
bcdate: 2015-10-15
smtdate: 2015-10-27
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2015-11-06
campsites: BC(15/10,4700m),C1(23/10,5700m),C2(26/10,6000m),Smt(27/10,02-03/11)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  SummitClimb Ama Dablam Expedition 2015:

  12 Oct - 1st group flight to Lukla, trekked to Phakding
  13 Oct - trekked to Namche
  15 Oct - arrived at Ama Dablam BC (4600m)
  19 Oct - acclimatization walk to 5000m, back to BC
  20 Oct - acclimatization walk to 5400m, back to BC
  23 Oct - 1st group climbed to C1 (5700m)
           2nd group (Naehring, Kalin, Wilutzky) flight to Lukla
  24 Oct - 1st group climb from C1 to C2 (6000m), then back to C1
  26 Oct - Richards, Kempf, Carideo and Martell at C2
  27 Oct - Richards, Kempf, Carideo and Martell summit
  28 Oct - Richards, Kempf, Carideo and Martell return to BC
           Naehring, Kalin and Wilutzky at C2, planning to summit bid that night
  29 Oct - Naehring, Kalin and Wilutzky returning to C1 due to snowfall
  31 Oct - Naehring and Kalin back to C2 for summit attempt
  01 Nov - Witkowska and Short in C1, planning for C2 and summit attempt
  02 Nov - Witkowska and Short in C2, going for summit that night
           Naehring and Kalin summit from C2
  03 Nov - Witkowska and Short summit at 12:30 pm
           Naehring and Kalin return to BC
  04 Nov - Gdaliahu and Volman climb to C1 for two days
           Witkowska and Short return to BC


expid: HIML15303
peakid: HIML
year: 2015
route1: W Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Luca Montanari
sponsor: Snowy Horizon Himlung Expedition 2015
countries: Kuwait, Switzerland, Vietnam
approach: Annapurna trail->Besisahar
bcdate: 2015-10-16
smtdate: 2015-10-28
smttime: 1200
termdate: 2015-10-30
campsites: BC(16/10,4800m),C1(19/10,5465m),C2(27/10,6100m),Smt(28/10)
accidents: 1st degree frostbite for Vietnamese climber
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks
routememo:
  Report for Italians and Vietnamese:

  BC  16/10  4800m
  C1  19/10  5465m (GPS)
  C2  27/10  6100m
  HPt 28/10  6500/6600m by Luca Montanari, Giorgio Sartori, Phan Duong + 2 Sherpas Smt 28/10  Riccardo Bergamini + Mingma Sherpa.

  Fixed rope : C1->C2 = 30m ; C2->Smt = 200m


  21/10 night to C1
  22/10 to C2, back BC

  All members slept at C2 on 27/10

  On 28/10. Started 2 am, summit time 12 pm ror Riccardo with Mingma Sherpa.

  High point for others that day:
    Luca + Giorgio + Dawa Sherpa = 6500m
    Phan + Lhakpa Sherpa = 6600m

  Luca, Giorgio, Dawa back to C1, then BC at 4 pm on same day. 
  Phan, Lhakpa back to BC at 8 pm same day.
  Riccardo and Mingma back to C2 at 7:30 pm same day; day after back to BC at 4 pm. 

  Hired: 
    Mingma Sherpa (Sirdar), Kempalung, Yaphu-9, 8/11/1983
    Dawa Sherpa, Kempalung, Yaphu-9, 2046.13.14 => 28/06/1989
    Lhakpa Sherpa, Kempalung, Yaphu-9, 25/9/1985 


  Other non-summiting climbers on Snowy Horizon team:
    Yousef Al-Nassar (Kuwait)
    Xavier Leon Carrard (Switzerland)
    Didier Francis Adolphe Genecand (Switzerland)
    Bernard Jean Girod (Switzerland)


expid: MUKT15302
peakid: MUKT
year: 2015
route1: NW Face
nation: UK
leaders: Thomas Richardson
sponsor: KE Adventure Mukut Himal Expedition (Group B)
ascent1: 3rd?
countries: USA
bcdate: 2015-10-21
smtdate: 2015-10-23
smttime: 0935
termdate: 2015-10-24
campsites: BC(21/10,5800m),Smt(23/10)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  All the members of this team summited except Ms. Gillian Potter. She reached BC on 20 October, and with them, she put on her crampons on the 23rd to start the climb. But she did not move above camp; doing so was beyond her capability.

  The rest of the team left BC at 3:00 am for the top and, in very cold and windy weather, reached the summit at 9:35 am. They were back in BC at 12:30 pm.

  They started their trek the next day, but five members began vomiting. A helicopter was summoned and it took them from Mu La to Jomsom. They trekked to Pokhara and flew from there to Kathmandu.


expid: MUKT15303
peakid: MUKT
year: 2015
route1: N Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Valerie Pitkethly
sponsor: KE Adventure Mukut Himal Expedition (Group C)
countries: Canada
approach: Nepalgunj->Juphal by air->Mukut
bcdate: 2015-10-26
smtdate: 2015-10-29
termdate: 2015-10-30
termnote: Abandoned at 52800m due to bad weather, strong winds and deep snow
campsites: BC(26/10,4800m),xxx(28/10,5280m)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  This last group of three teams of Mukut climbers in Autumn 2015 never did any climbing at all. They made a low base camp on 26 October, then up to high BC on 28 Oct, but were not even able to sleep in it. They spent a few hours there, but because of fierce wind and deep snow, it became impossible to stay there. They fled to the nearest village and never returned.

  75 cm of snow fell during the night. Snow continued fall the next two days. Lots of avalanches, especially on the trekking march back from BC.

  Their intended climbing route was the N Ridge. The team included two climbing Sherpas with their 13 members.

  Hired:
    Dawa Sherpa, 42, Kharikhola
    Dorje Sherpa, 34


expid: JABR15301
peakid: JABR
year: 2015
route1: S Ridge (to 5900m)
route2: NE Face-N Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Ryan Waters
sponsor: American Jabou Ri Expedition 2015
ascent2: 1st
approach: Beding->Na
bcdate: 2015-09-09
smtdate: 2015-09-15
termdate: 2015-09-16
othersmts: Held permit for Takargo East
campsites: BC(09/09,5000m),ABC(12/09,5500m),Smt(15/09)
agency: Himalayan Trailblazer
routememo:
  BC  09/09  5000m 
  ABC 12/09  5500m
  Smt 15/09  by Larson, Waters.

  From Beding the team walked to the small settlement of Na (4200m), from where they continued on the Trakarding Glacier to reach base camp (5000m). The walk to BC took four days; difficult terrain for the porters. Once they had established their BC, the weather turned bad and they were stuck for a few days. On 12 Sept they established ABC and on 13 Sept they did a reccie on the South Ridge, which they reached via the East Face of the mountain. When they had reached about 5700m the weather was too bad to carry on. They returned to ABC and tried again on 14 Sept. When they reached around 5900m, they decided that the route was too dangerous. Waters was climbing up a double-corniced ridge in very bad snow. Had they continued, they would have triggered avalanches. When they reached ABC Waters had a look at the north side of the mountain and thought that there might be a possibility on its NE Face, however, they still returned to BC.

  On 15 Sept, they left BC at 1 am, climbed to ABC, put on their mountain gear and left ABC for their summit push at 3:30 am. They climbed up the glacier on the NE side, joined the ridge of Takargo East and then continued to the left. Climb was fairly easy. Would be a good mountain to ski.

  Weather was good and they stayed about 1/2 hour on the summit from where they could see Everest and Lhotse. On their descent they stopped at ABC, packed it up and carried everything over to the Tashi Laptsa as they were going to cross this pass to get into the Khumbu. They then descended to BC.

  On 16 Sept they left BC and crossed the Tashi Laptsa.

  Team also held permit for Takargo East.


expid: MANA15303
peakid: MANA
year: 2015
route1: NE Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Martin Siefermann
sponsor: German Manaslu Expedition 2015
approach: Tadapani->Bimtang->Larkya La
bcdate: 2015-09-09
smtdate: 2015-10-01
termdate: 2015-10-04
termnote: Abandoned at 7200m due to feeling very ill
campsites: BC(09/09,4700m),C1(11/09,5800m),C2(20/09,6600m),C3(25/09,6800m),xxx(01/10,7200m)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks permit
routememo:
  BC  09/09  4700m
  C1  11/09  5800m
  C2  20/09  6600m
  C3  25/09  6800m
  HPt 01/10  7200m by Holubarsch, Siefermann.

  Team was acclimatized well; however, when they were on their summit push they both felt very sick. They were intending to summit from C3 and left camp at 7 pm on 1 Oct. An hour earlier, they both had some food and during the climb up they both felt very ill and decided to turn back at 7200m at 10:30 pm. As they had carried their skis, they skied back to C3, where they arrived at 1:30 am. They slept for a while and on 2 Oct, they broke down C3, skied to C2; climbed down to C1, dismantled it and skied to BC. They arrived at BC at 4:30 pm on 2 Oct. 

  They left BC on 4 Oct and trekked out to Arughat. The earthquake damage on the trail seemed to be Ok apart from a few sections which are very close to the river.


expid: RAUN15301
peakid: RAUN
year: 2015
route1: W Ridge-NW Ridge (Nima Tenji rte)
nation: Nepal
leaders: Nima Tenji Sherpa
sponsor: Sherpa Raungsiyar Expedition 2014
ascent1: 1st
approach: Gonggar by road (9 hrs)->Simigaon->Beding->Na
bcdate: 2015-10-03
smtdate: 2015-10-04
smttime: 1530
termdate: 2015-10-06
othersmts: Summited Langdak on 5 Oct and Takargo East on 6 Oct by all three Sherpas
campsites: BC(03/10,5600m),ABC(04/10,5800m),Smt(04/10)
agency: Dreamers Destination Treks
routememo:
  BC  03/10  5600m on Drolambau Glacier
  ABC 04/10  5800m at end of Drolambau (fork between Langdak and Raungsiyar) 
  Smt 04/10  by Nima Tenji, Dawa Gyalje, Tashi Sherpa at 3:30 pm.

  Team left BC at 6:30 am and crossed the Drolambau Glacier. No rope and no crevasses. They reached their ABC at 9:30 am, set up two tents and continued climbing at about 12 noon. The route was partially in deep snow. The last ridge (West) they climbed Alpine style using running belays. The ridge leading up to the summit (NW ridge) was snowy and crevassed. They were moving on a rope together. 
  They spent about one hour on the summit taking photos. The summit was relatively small, maybe space for six people. Team descended all the way to BC where they arrived at 6:30 pm. No fixed rope.


expid: TKRE15301
peakid: TKRE
year: 2015
route1: NE Ridge (Tashi rte)
nation: Nepal
leaders: Nima Tenji Sherpa
sponsor: Sherpa Takargo East Expedition 2014
ascent1: 1st
approach: Gonggar by road (9 hrs)->Simigaon->Beding->Na
bcdate: 2015-10-03
smtdate: 2015-10-06
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2015-10-07
othersmts: Summited Raungsiyar on 4 Oct and Langdak on 5 Oct by all three Sherpas
campsites: BC(03/10,5600m),Smt(06/10)
agency: Dreamers Destination Treks
primid: RAUN15301
routememo:
  BC  03/10  5600m on Drolambau Glacier 
  Smt 06/10  by Nima Tenji, Dawa Gyalje, Tashi Sherpa at 11:30 am.

  Team left BC for Takargo East at 6:30 am. It took them about 1-1/2 hours to get to the bottom of the climb over a heavily crevassed glacier. Glacier was mixed (dry and ice) and they had zigzag around the crevasses, especially near the bottom of the climb. The first 100m-stretch was a rock climb. Rock was pretty loose. At about 5800m they reached the snowy ridge, which they ascended moving on a rope together. The final ridge (northeast) featured five pinnacles, which they crossed underneath but had to stay pretty close as the snow was waist-deep lower down. Once they reached the summit ridge, they were knee-deep in the snow. A nice ramp led to a nice big summit. From the top they saw Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu and Makalu. They spent about 1-1/2 hours on the summit and descended to BC, where they arrived at 3:40 pm. They dismantled BC and hiked to the end of the glacier (5100m), where they arrived at 7:30 pm and pitched their tents for the night. They walked to Beding the following day and then back to Gonggar on 8 Oct. They used two porters for their gear to BC.


expid: LDAK15301
peakid: LDAK
year: 2015
route1: W Ridge (Dawa Gyalje rte)
nation: Nepal
leaders: Nima Tenji Sherpa
sponsor: Sherpa Langdak Expedition 2014
ascent1: 1st
approach: Gonggar by road (9 hrs)->Simigaon->Beding->Na
bcdate: 2015-10-03
smtdate: 2015-10-05
smttime: 1115
termdate: 2015-10-06
othersmts: Summited Raungsiyar on 4 Oct and Takargo East on 6 Oct by all three Sherpas
campsites: BC(03/10,5600m),ABC(04/10,5800m),Smt(05/10)
agency: Dreamers Destination Treks
primid: RAUN15301
routememo:
  BC  03/10  5600m on Drolambau Glacier
  ABC 04/10  5800m at end of Drolambau (fork between Langdak and Raungsiyar) 
  Smt 05/10  by Nima Tenji, Dawa Gyalje, Tashi Sherpa at 11:15 am.

  After they had come back from Raungsiyar, the team started again from ABC at 8 am on 05 Oct to climb Langdak. They crossed the glacier moving together on a rope. At about 9:30 am they reached the West Summit at 6177m. On their way up, they thought that this was the real summit, however, when they got there they noticed that there was a higher point to their right. They descended for about 50m and ascended again to the real summit. From the small summit they saw Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Kangchenjunga, Shishapangma and Cho Oyu.

  They spent about two hours on the summit. The weather was perfect and calm. They left the summit at about 1 pm and arrived at ABC 3:30 pm. They packed up ABC and carried on to BC, where they arrived at 6 pm and spent the night.


expid: AMAD15308
peakid: AMAD
year: 2015
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Andreas Lattner
sponsor: Austrian Ama Dablam Expedition 2015
approach: Lukla->Namche->Island Peak->Ama Dablam BC
bcdate: 2015-10-18
smtdate: 2015-10-24
smttime: 1530
termdate: 2015-10-27
othersmts: Summited Island Peak on 17 Oct
campsites: BC(18/10,4600m),C1(22/10,5800m),C2(23/10,6000m),Smt(24/10)
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks (Himalayan Guides pmt)
routememo:
  BC  18/10  4600m
  C1  22/10  5800m
  C2  23/10  6000m
  Smt 24/10  by both members at 3:30 pm.

  17/10 on Island Peak. Next day to Ama Dablam BC
  20/10 deposit C1
  21/10 rest
  22/10 sleeping C1
  23/10 deposit + sleeping at C2
  24/10 Summit first day fixed ropes were put on. Started at 5 am from C2, to summit 
        at 3:30 pm, back to C2 at 7:30 pm. Best weather conditions. Started quite
        late, so not so cold.
  25/10 back to BC with heavy bags. 


expid: AMAD15309
peakid: AMAD
year: 2015
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Bruno Netzer
sponsor: Austrian Ama Dablam Expedition 2015
approach: Lukla->Thami->Renjo La->Gokyo->Nirekha BC->Cho La->Chomare->AMAD BC
bcdate: 2015-10-25
smtdate: 2015-10-27
smttime: 1700
termdate: 2015-10-30
othersmts: Summited Nirekha
campsites: BC(25/10,4600m),C1(26/10,5700m),Smt(27/10)
agency: Iceland Trekking (Active Holidays pmt)
routememo:
  BC  25/10  4600m
  C1  26/10  5700m
  Smt 27/10  by Christoph Schranz, Egon Netzer and Bruno Netzer at 5 pm.

  Summit day: started at 8 am, summited at 5 pm (9h up), with moonlight could reach C1 back at 9:30 pm. Good weather conditions, no wind. "Unser taktik" to start late so that not to be cold and could enjoy nice way down with moonlight.

  28/10 C1 to BC
  29/10 rested 

  No oxygen, no Sherpas.


expid: DHA115301
peakid: DHA1
year: 2015
route1: SW Pillar (to 7100m)
nation: France
leaders: Yannick Graziani
sponsor: French Dhaulagiri Expedition
approach: Darbang->Italian BC
bcdate: 2015-09-19
smtdate: 2015-10-10
termdate: 2015-10-17
termnote: Abandoned at 7100m due to bad, unstable weather
achievment: 1st alpine-style attempt since successful 1988 Czechs
agency: Glacier Safari Treks
campsites:
  BC(19/09,3660m),IC(20/09,4400m),ABC(23/09,5100m),C1(27/09,5900m),C2(01/10,6100m),C3(02/10,6600m),C4(09/10,6900m),Biv(10/10,7050m),(10-11/10,7100m)

routememo:
  BC  19/09  3660m
  IC  20/09  4400m
  ABC 23/09  5100m
  C1  27/09  5900m
  C2  01/10  6100m
  C3  02/10  6600m
  C4  09/10  6900m
  Biv 10/10  7050m
  HPt 10-11/10  7100m at superior neve of SW Buttress by both members.

  Fixed rope: 500m
    150 below ABC for the porters security
    350m on the pillar for their own security in case of bad weather during descent.

  21/09: from 4400m avalanche-prone intermediate camp, did carry gear up to 50m below future ABC (exposed traverse). 

  22/09: rested

  23-25/09: ABC proper installation from 23/10, equipping 300m of fixed ropes for the porters. During that period, both members climbed up to 5665m col (between Manapathi and Dhaulagiri I) to have an overview of the pillar.

  1st session: 

  25-27/09: by couloir, up to 5900m shoulder place on the SW Pillar, afoot of a 200m rock pillar. This section exposed mainly south would be climbed unroped for security reasons regarding potential rock/ice falls. Lower couloir like 50° average with some 70/80° sections, main couloir like 50° steep with last 2-5 pitches at 70° (here they would rope again). 

  Equipped above 5900m the pillar in 2 days (rock up to grade V), and made a terrace atop of it at 6100m camp atop of it for a future camp. Then back to BC. 1 pitch they didn't equip in fixed rope (upper 1/3 => 150m equipped) would slow them on 3rd session descent as they had to install an abseil instead of autonomously downclimbing using ropes. 

  2nd session:

  30/09: back to ABC.

  01/10: back to 5900 "col", took the tent to go to 6100m camp and slept there. Perfect bivouac horizontal place, inserted within geological layers.

  02/10: pushed further through: 
  - a first step through a 50m 70° icy pitch with some vertical portions. 
  - a second step with first a difficult traverse with rock grade IV, then 30m of 80° ice gully, then 25m up to rock grade V. (Here during 3rd session descent they would remove 70m of fixed rope and leave 80m).

  That day slept at 6600m just atop of the second step. 

  03/10: left bivouac place light, climbed 3rd step through a difficult ice traverse (60/65°) then 2 rock pitches up to rock grade V. Reached 6900m place that day, which they terraced for future camp here. Descended same day, took back 6600m place bivouac gear to sleep at 6100m. 

  04/10: left very early to avoid rock falls and reached BC.

  3rd session:

  07/10: back to ABC
  08/10: to 6100m camp place
  09/10: to 6900m camp place

  10/10: traverse on the western side of the SW Pillar (on the west face of the SW Pillar) through a shelf in easy rock grade III, stopped at 7100m by snowfall. Within 10 min, spindrifts avalanches more and more coming, so had to retreat straight. In 4 lateral delicate abseils under spindrifts, could reach at 6 pm a precarious, but sheltered at best bivouac place just afoot of a 30m vertical rock wall. From 3 pm to 11 pm, almost 30 cms of fresh snow fell. 

  11/10: at 6 am, after an anxious night fearing to stay blocked there, started to traverse back to 6900m camp. Delicate because didn't fix enough rope on that section on the way up (60m). Duo needed 5 hours to come back to their 6900m camp place, whereas they needed 3 hours on the way up! 

  12/10: back on known ground, they descended to 6100m camp, then stopped before usual afternoons dangerous objective conditions begun.

  13/10: back to BC. Would wait there for 4-5 days for good conditions opportunity to appear and try the normal route. Yannick having a flight ticket back to France expected for the 20/10 and weather forecast expecting 15 days of uncertain weather conditions, the duo decided to abandon on the 17/10. From the 10/10, it had snowed every day, even with 30cms snow on the 15/10 at the IBC.

  Return from Italian BC to Kathmandu in less than 48 hours.

  In 12 hours, hiked from Italian BC (3660m) to Doban (2520m, usually 4 hours below Italian BC) and Bojan (2080m) to Darbang. Day after very tired!

  About the route

  Route with sustained difficulties comparable to Eiger North Face Heckmair route, but here between 5300 and 7100m. According to Graziani, more continuous route than on Annapurna I South Face (even difficulties not exceeding rock grade V and ice 80°), but with less commitment (ridge here and not face). Many sections climbed unroped to go faster, like in the attack couloir.
   
  Ridge configuration interesting for itinerary research, here again comparable with Eiger Nordwand: they did a lot of traverses to avoid difficulties whereas it seems former expeditions often kept a straight way (have seen pitons in very steep sections which they could avoid).

  A great advantage of this route is that there are many places to make great safe bivouacs and wind sheltered ones on the eastern side of the ridge. However the views aren't to be the most stunning one, being "blocked" towards the east by the South Ridge, with no close high mountains west and other Dhaulagiri's lying more northwest. However, visual height impression very nice all way long, even more from the upper shelf !

  Sun not before 9 am, being sheltered by the S Pillar. Then dangerous during the afternoon for the lowest section until 5900m (would always avoid to go through that section during afternoon). 

  Rotten sedimentary rock all the way long. 

  This year itinerary in dry conditions. Difficult to check route conditions from Italian Base Camp. One day during first session, conditions were so dry they just leave their crampons at camp!

  Stopped at 7100m afoot of an ice gully, a priori like 150m high including a 80/90° pitch. Could see afterwards from trek trail afoot of the West Face the following section, which would apparently have add something like a 100m more (2 pitches approx.) climb. From 7400m, seems end of the difficulties but still long way to go to the top. 

  Their itinerary clever way to avoid final SW Pillar 500m section which is extremely hard. Pay homage to 1988 Czechs trio who made it alpine style up to the top!


expid: HIML15304
peakid: HIML
year: 2015
route1: W Ridge from SW
nation: UK
leaders: Chris Harling
sponsor: Adventure Peaks Himlung Expedition 2015
countries: Australia, France, Switzerland
approach: By road to Koto->Annapurna trail->Phu valley
bcdate: 2015-10-29
smtdate: 2015-11-10
smttime: 1145
termdate: 2015-11-12
campsites: BC(29/10,4885m),C1(02/11,5500m),C2(03/11,6000m),C3(09/11,6200m),Smt(10/11)
agency: Makalu Adventure
routememo:
  Expedition diary extracted from Ben Grenon blog:

  29 Oct - arrived at BC (4885m).
  30 Oct - puja and training session (jumar and rapelling).
  31 Oct - first climb to C1 site (5500m), return to BC.
  01 Nov - rest day; Koslowski evacuated by helicopter for AMS.
  02 Nov - started at 9 am for C1, arrived at 5 pm.
  03 Nov - climbed to C2 at 6000m in 5 hours.
  04 Nov - return to BC.
  05 Nov - rest day.
  06 Nov - rest day.
  07 Nov - start of summit attempt, climbed to C1.
  08 Nov - climbed to C2.
  09 Nov - dismantled C2 and moved it up to C3 (6200m).
  10 Nov - team departed for summit at 1:30 am.
           summits by Harling, Bracq, Grenon, Lhakpa and Phurba at 11:30 am.
           Johnson turns back at 6350m at 2:30 am.
           Perrodon turns back at 6600m at 4:30 am.
           Junga Rai turns back at 6630m due to toe frostbite.
  11 Nov - returned to BC from C3.
  12 Nov - returned to Kathmandu by helicopter.


expid: PUMO15301
peakid: PUMO
year: 2015
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Manual Gonzalez
sponsor: Alpine Andalucia Mt. Pumori 7161m Expedition 2015
approach: Lukla->Khumbu Valley
bcdate: 2015-10-07
smtdate: 2015-10-15
termdate: 2015-10-24
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to exhaustion and lack of personnel
campsites: BC(07/10,5100m),ABC(09/10,5500m),xxx(15,19,22/10,6300m)
agency: Bochi Bochi Treks
routememo:
  BC  7/10  5100m at Gorak Shep
  ABC 9/10  5500m at a little higher than usual lake-site camp
  Hpt 15,19,22/10 6300m by Sergio and Miguel.

  Fixed rope: 600m fixed between ABC and deposit.

  Came already 5 years ago in December on Pumori, first trying to open a new route on the right side of the normal route without success (seracs threatening stopped them), then to repeat the SW ridge where they were stopped at the 6150m col (could reach it alpine-style in one day from normal route base camp back then!).

  This time, intended to climb SW Pillar with a 5 members team, but short before departure 2 decided not to come. Once on the mountain, they teamed up with an American 7-member expedition (with Himalayan Ascent agency and which had its BC at the usual lake BC) to equip the route, but Spanish couldn't recover as they had to rely just on 3 of them. Team also met with unexpected bad weather conditions compared with usual stable conditions they met in the past years for the same season. All which took their forces down during equipment of the route to their theoretical C1.

  9-15 Oct: from ABC, equipped in bad weather conditions the route up to close from C1. Some rock and ice falls hit them but route remained more or less a safe one. Team didn't choose to put a camp at the 6150m col where they bivouacked 5 years ago, that one being too narrow this time and unsheltered from the winds. Eventually found a location higher up further to the right under a rocky tower where they could make a deposit, not sleeping there. Americans on their side reached their C1 place one day before them, theirs being located 40m further to the east.

  16-18 Oct: went down to BC for rest as they couldn't recover during route equipment, and also waiting for better weather.

  19 Oct: from BC went to their 6300m deposit, discovering birds (crows) had eaten most of their soft food supplies, only cans having survived! Meanwhile Americans had already begun to equip the route above their 6300m C1. Decided to come back to ABC that day so that they could go back to Gorak Shep and buy food.

  20 Oct: Manuel went to Gorak Shep for buying new food.

  21 Oct: trio realized that compared with its initial plan of summiting around 22-23 Oct, with a proper C1 still not set up, they were really far from the summit. Their chances being too low, they decided to abandon the climb.

  22 Oct: went up again to their deposit to remove everything, only leaving 200m of their own fixed ropes below their deposit for the American team. Back to ABC that day.

  23 Oct: back to Gorak Shep with all gear. Manuel would wait for the porters here whereas both others would to a hook by Gokyo.

  24 Oct: Manuel and porters left base camp.

  4 of the Americans being sick and exhausted had decided to abandon; when they left, 3 were remaining and aiming for the summit around 28 Oct.
   
  3 or 4 days before they left, also met 1 Czech (Josef Zeman) with his Sherpa going up and aiming for the top by the SW Ridge, following the fixed lines. 2 other Czechs also intending to try the normal route. 
   
  Won't come back a third time on Pumori!

  High point for Manuel (tired by his carriage) at 6200m below a hard ice pitch below the deposit, others 2 at 6300m deposit.


expid: APIM15301
peakid: APIM
year: 2015
route1: SW Face (to 5550m)
route2: NW Ridge
nation: Japan
leaders: Kazuya Hiraide
sponsor: Team Japan API Expedition 2015
ascent1: 9th
bcdate: 2015-10-06
smtdate: 2015-10-21
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2015-10-23
campsites: BC.South(06/10,3800m),xxx(09/10,5550m); BC.North(19/10,4000m),C1(20/10,6000m),Smt(21/10)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Intended to climb by SW Face, but the route was not in good condition. So team switched to the north side [by crossing the col between Api and Nampa] and climbed by the normal NW Ridge route. 

  On summit day, the team left C1 (6000m) at 6:30 am and summited at 10:30 am, remained on the summit for 30 minutes, then returned to base camp at 14:30 pm.

  No fixed rope, no oxygen, no Sherpas.


expid: TILI15301
peakid: TILI
year: 2015
route1: N Face
nation: Germany
leaders: Jozef Houben
sponsor: International Tilicho Expedition 2015
countries: Belgium, Italy
approach: Beni->Darbang by jeep-.around Dhaula->Jomsom->Mesokanto La
bcdate: 2015-10-17
smtdate: 2015-10-21
termdate: 2015-10-26
termnote: Abandoned at 5900m due to dangerous serac conditions
campsites: BC(17/10,4900m),Dep(5300m),xxx(21,24/10,5900m)
agency: Iceland Trekking
routememo:
  BC  17/10  4900m
  HPt 21,24/10 5900m Josef Houben and 3 Sherpas
  	21/10    5800m by Odina Grosso.

  Fixed rope: from 5300m deposit camp to 5900m high point = 600m.

  Wolfgang Vollmann never went to BC, leaving Kathmandu before the two others had arrived, due to a knee problem.

  Had planned to establish 2 high-altitude camps at 5900m and 6400m. 

  Above a deposit camp at 5300m, fixed 600m of rope until 5900m, where a 160m high rock bareer topped by an overhanging serac stopped all attempts to go further (steep blue ice).
   
  Sherpas went 5 or 6 times to the 5900m high point.
    
  Houben stopped twice at 5900m on 21 and 24 Oct.

  Grosso stopped at 5800m 100m below the rock barreer on 21 Oct.

  At night always avalanches, decided conditions to be too dangerous. Return trek by Thorong La and Muktinath.

  10 years ago Tilicho was in snow conditions, now rock with delicate seracs; a consequence of the global warming effect?

  Sherpas:
    Tenji Sherpa  Tapting-7, Solukhumbu, 16/04/1981 
    Tendi Sherpa, Tapting-6, Solukhumbu, 12/03/1960 
    Dawa (Salami) Sherpa, Najing, Garma-3, Solukhumbu, 29/12/1972


expid: TKPO15301
peakid: TKPO
year: 2015
route1: S Face-E Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Soren Kruse Ledet
sponsor: World Expeditions Tengkangpoche Expedition 2015
countries: Denmark
approach: Lukla->Ghat->Moro La->Lumding Kharka->BC south side
bcdate: 2015-10-15
smtdate: 2015-10-25
termdate: 2015-10-29
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due dangerous steep ice conditions and route too technical for group
othersmts: Summited Kwangde Lo on 19 Oct
campsites: BC(15/10,4960m),ABC(23/10,5540m),C1(24/10,5900m),xxx(25/10,6300m)
agency: Highland Excursions
routememo:
  BC  15/10  4960m
  ABC 23/10  5540m
  C1  24/10  5900m
  HPt 25/10  6300m by Lhakpa Nuru and Lhakpa Tamang (fixing ahead), 
             Soren (at 6250m) and his 9 members approximately same height
             or lightly below, approximately at noon. 

  Fixed rope: 900m through the rocks and snow/ice.

  Climbed Kwande Lo on the 19 Oct: Soren + 4 climbing Sherpas + 9 members. Summit time about 11 am, 11:45 am for last member. Very small summit.  

  From 12 members, 3 members evacuated earlier on 14 and 15/10 (Raymond Smith had a fractured tibia; Neville Knuckey had abdominal issues, with his wife Jacquelene following him out).

  Hard to fix ice screws, hard blue ice in some places. Not secure with the group.
  Got snowed 1 day in BC after the summit attempt.

  Were completely alone on the south side of the mountain. Will try it again later.

accidents:
  3 members evacuated (Raymond Smith had a fractured tibia; Neville Knuckey had abdominal issue with his wife Jacquelene following him out)


expid: NAG115301
peakid: NAG1
year: 2015
route1: SW Face
nation: France
leaders: Mathieu Maynadier
sponsor: French Nangpai Gosum I Expedition 2015
approach: Lukla->Thami->Arye->Sumna
bcdate: 2015-09-30
termdate: 2015-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 5160m due to wet conditions on face
othersmts: Attempted Dzasampatse via NE Face
campsites: BC(30/09,5160m),xxx
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Arriving first at their base camp, the western face of Nangpai Gosum I looked in perfect condition, but the team wasn't yet acclimatized. Then occurred a 7-day warm weather period which changed completely the conditions of the face, with proper waterfalls appearing every afternoon at 6500m.

  Team had to change its plan facing this unexpected situation.

  After difficult days without finding any real plan B, on 17 Oct, Dussere and Detrie decided to go for a new line on the NE Face of Dzasampatse (6296m), a summit lying immediately south of Jasemba (first ascent in 2004 by Slovenians). They started at 6 am from their BC, reaching almost (20m below) the top at 15:45, then the col afoot of the normal route SW side (Slovenian route 2004, AD+ grade and not TD+ according to them) at 8 pm.

  Meanwhile the same day, Maynadier and Labbre abandoned the plan to repeat the 2006 Japanese route on Nangpai Gosum I southeastern subpeak and decided to repeat their friend's route instead. Starting at 3 am on the 18 Oct, they followed the day before traces to reach same almost top at 9 am and got back to the same aforementioned col at 11:30 am! The route has been christened "A la vertical de la peine."

  During its acclimatization, team went to acclimatize on the Kammerlander route of Jasemba.

  During approach march, they found the glacial moraines to be extremely chaotic, with huge odd sections of unstable blocks, maybe a consequence of the earthquake?


expid: DZAS15301
peakid: DZAS
year: 2015
route1: NE Face (up), SSW Ridge (down)
nation: France
leaders: Mathieu Maynadier
sponsor: French Nangpai Gosum I Expedition 2015
approach: Lukla->Thami->Arye->Sumna
bcdate: 2015-09-30
smtdate: 2015-10-17
termdate: 2015-10-20
termnote: Abandoned at 6276m on summit ridge
othersmts: Attempted Nangpai Gosum I
campsites: BC(30/09,5160m),xxx(17-18/10,6276m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
primid: NAG115301
routememo:
  Arriving first at their base camp, the western face of Nangpai Gosum I looked in perfect condition, but the team wasn't yet acclimatized. Then occurred a 7-day warm weather period that changed completely the conditions of the face, with proper waterfalls appearing every afternoon at 6500m.

  The team had to change its plan facing this unexpected situation.

  After difficult days without finding any real plan B, on 17 Oct Dussere and Detrie decided to go for a new line on the NE Face of Dzasampatse (6296m), a summit lying immediately south of Jasemba (first ascent in 2004 by Slovenians). They started at 6 am from their BC, reaching almost (20m below) the top at 15:45, then the col afoot of the normal route SW side (Slovenian route 2004, AD+ grade and not TD+ according to them) at 8 pm.

  Meanwhile the same day, Maynadier and Labbre abandoned the plan to repeat the 2006 Japanese route on Nangpai Gosum I southeastern subpeak and decided to repeat their friend's route instead. Starting at 3 am on the 18 Oct, they followed the day before traces to reach same almost top at 9 am and got back to the same aforementioned col at 11:30 am! The route has been christened "A la vertical de la peine."

  During its acclimatization, team went to acclimatize on the Kammerlander route of Jasemba.

  During approach march, they found the glacial moraines to be extremely chaotic, with huge odd sections of unstable blocks, maybe a consequence of the earthquake?


expid: ANN415302
peakid: ANN4
year: 2015
route1: SW Pillar
nation: Poland
leaders: Janusz Golab
sponsor: Polish Annapurna IV SW Pillar Autumn 2015
approach: By helicopter to Seti BC
bcdate: 2015-10-26
smtdate: 2015-11-11
termdate: 2015-11-16
termnote: Abandoned due to bad conditions on S Wall and bad weather
campsites: BC(26/10,4500m),xxx(11/11,5000m?)
agency: Prestige Adventure
routememo:
  Plans:

  Acclimatization planned east to the col between Annapurna IV and III, on the Northwest Ridge of Annapurna 4, until an altitude of 6500m. Way to reckon descent route also.

  Plan to climb the [SW] pillar in alpine style, trying to attack it left to the main ridge, whereas the Czechs in 2003 used the right side of it through rock slabs in loose rock.

  This may be the second proper attempt of this esthetic pillar (quoted by Messner in "Big Walls") after 2003’s Czech one attempt up to 5700m (in 1998, Jiri Novak’s team didn't properly attempt to climb the pillar due to dangerous conditions).

  Results:

  Team arrived at BC on 26 Oct by helicopter.

  29 Oct planned to go to 5500-5600m for first acclimatization round, but heavy snowfall on evening of 28 Oct twarted those plans.

  Continuous snowfall keeps team at BC through 8 Nov.

  Team made brief acclimatization climb, then returned to BC.

  16 Nov team abandons climb due to bad conditions on S Wall and bad weather.


expid: AMAD15311
peakid: AMAD
year: 2015
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Ruben Payan Jr.
sponsor: Human in Motion Ama Dablam Expedition 2015
termnote: Abandoned at 6100m due to avalanche triggered by 5.5 Khumbu earthquake
campsites: BC(4600m),C1(),C2(6100m),xxx
agency: Climbalaya
routememo:
  From Ruben Payan Facebook posts:

  26 Nov 2015

  Happy Thanksgiving everyone! I'm here at Ama Dablam Basecamp at 4600M. We are resting for 2 days then off to Camp 1. The weather has been really kind to us and we're looking to hit the summit and make it back by the 8th of Dec. My body's holding up well but my feet needed a bit of recovery after the week of trekking in.

  6 Dec 2015

  UPDATE: There was a 5.5 earthquake here in the Khumbu region that triggered an avalanche above Camp 3. At that time we were at 6000M (going through the Yellow Tower) moving to Camp 2. We reached Camp 2 and made the decision to not make a summit attempt due to the fact that we have many more training climbs on our schedule before K2 next Summer. I did happen to capture the avalanche as it was happening. It's scaring when you're a sitting duck on the edge of a 2000M drop. All training for this climb was completed and we're trekking back to Lukla tomorrow. Love you all! Thank you for all your postive energy!


expid: AMAD15314
peakid: AMAD
year: 2015
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Ireland
leaders: Cian O'Brolchain
sponsor: Ascent Himalayas Ama Dablam Expedition 2015
countries: Canada, France, Norway, UK
bcdate: 2015-11-05
smtdate: 2015-11-11
termdate: 2015-11-24
agency: Ascent Himalayas
campsites:
  BC(05/11,4700m),C1(07/11,5700m),C2(10/11,6100m),Smt(11/11);
  BC(10/11,4570m),C1(14/11,5700m),C2(15/11,6080m),Smt(21/11)

routememo:
  From Ascent Himalayas Facebook posts:

  21 Nov 2015

  All our members and Sherpas made the 100% successful summit to Mt Ama Dablam today and they are heading down to Camp 2. Congratulations to Une Prestholt (Norway), John Burke (Ireland), Cian O'Brolchain (Ireland), Gavan Henningan (Ireland), Pasang Tenzing Sherpa, Tsering Pemba Sherpa, Dawa Tashi Sherpa & Furtemba Sherpa.

  19 Nov 2015

  Congratulations to Simon Thomasson (UK), Pasang tenzing and Narendra Shahi for making the successful summit of Mt Ama Dablam and Eric Jamet has to returned back because of his health problem, they are on the way to Camp 2 and other member Cian, John, Gavan and Une are heading to Camp 1 today and will be going to Camp 2 tomorrow and summit on 21st Nov.

  18 Nov 2015

  Ascent Himalayas Ama Dablam Expedition 2015: Our member Eric Jamet & Simon Thomasson are on the way to Camp 2 and their plan is to summit tomorrow and other team members (Une, Cian, Gavan, John) are at base camp for rest and will be heading to Camp 1 tomorrow and plan to summit on 21st Nov so we would like to wish them best of luck for the successful summit.

  11 Nov 2015

  Dean Carriere (Canada), Tsering Pemba Sherpa (Climbing Sherpa) also made the summit of Mt Ama Dablam and they are on their way back and also Ascent Himalayas Island Peak Climbing Team also made the summit yesterday and they are on the way to pangboche today. Congratulations to 

  Une Prestholt (Norway)
  Eric Jamet (France)
  Simon Thomasson (UK)
  Eystein Grusd (Norway)
  Dean Carriere (Canada)
  Pasang Tenzing Sherpa (Climbing Guide)
  Narendra Shahi (Climbing Sherpa)
  Nima Gyalzen Sherpa (Climbing Sherpa)
  Tsering Pemba Sherpa (Climbing Sherpa)
  Dawa Tashi Sherpa (Climbing Sherpa)

  11 Nov 2015

  After the successful Manaslu and first ascent of Mt Beding Go once again Ascent Himalayas Mt Ama Dablam Expedition made the successful summit this morning. We would like to congratulate Mr Eystein Grusd (Norway) and Dawa Tashi Sherpa for the successful summit, Dean and Tsering are on the way to summit and rest team are acclamatizing at Island Peak.


  From Facebook entry (The Clare Crusade on Ama Dablam 2015)
    by John Burke
  [Subgroup with Ascent Himalayas team]

  01 Dec 2015

  Without doubt the heroes of the mountains, the Sherpas, relentlessly supporting people like us in fulfilling our dreams. Here Cian, Gavan and I, along with Pasang and Furtemba celebrate a team on the top, Tsering volunteered to take the pic. Thanks for delivering us safely up and down and for your energy, care, and skills throughout the entire expedition.

  30 Nov 2015

  We were prepared for cold weather, we hoped it wouldnt be any colder than expected, the only factor that could catch us out was wind, it claimed many fingers and toes here before. But Mingma had carefully studied forecasts and thankfully they were accurate, it probably didn't drop below -20/25, and our triple sock and glove system, and insulated boots, along with multiple clothing layers, and outer down layer, ensured we remained safe from the elements.

  The summit night was a slow start, mainly contributed to by some slow spanish climbers ahead of us, they were overly cautious, and refused to let us share ropes and pass them, heated exchanges ensured, we were aware that their pace would not only jeopradise their attempt at the summit, but all of ours also, along with our safety, thankfully at about 4am, they allowed us to pass, and they retreated off the mountain, much and all as this was disappointing for them, it seemed like the right decision.

  By sunrise i was already feeling tired, but the sun can give the lift needed, well that and the cafeine energy gels, straight out of camp 2 we were on technical rock and ice, made even more difficult by falling ice and rock from overhead, Tsering was proficent in his work, and we never delayed, pace helped keep us warm and focused also.

  Our first proper break was taken at camp 3, a place we dont stay due to the overhanging Ice Serac which wiped out many lives there in the past, we took about 15 mins at about 11am, and fuled up as much as possible, warm tea, energy bars, water. After camp 3 the route was straightforward, see image attached, we are the dots on the right of the image making our way up the steep snow and ice. It was a relentless slog of two steps, 5/10 breaths, as the cold dry are sucked the moisture from your mouth and lungs, it felt a lot safer there than on previous parts, but it was tough on the body, the heart was probably sitting on 160bpm for most the day, but you could really feel it here.

  At about 1pm, I fell over the top knowing it was over! We all got some photos, and the three Irish lads, Myself, Cian, and Gavan, got some group pics, and all shared in the emotion of achieving this summit. The Sherpas were notably satisfied also, celebrating and photographing also.

  From here it was all down hill! but on Ama Dablam, this presents many challenges, being so technical the brain is as rattled as the body, and this is where mistakes happen, a continious descent of absails, Sherpa rappels, down-climbing, saw us edge down the mountain, we were exhausted by the time darkness set in again, and abseiling off fixed rope that in the abyss, certainly kept the pressure on to the very end, the Sherpa team kept watchful eye over us, never loosing focus despite the long day, on the way down more rock gets knocked off, as people lose concentration, so its important to get out of the dodgy spots fast. At about 8pm we landed back into camp 2, out of the worst of danger, but still with more work to do the following day, a 20-hr day had certainly ensured we appreciated the work for a summit of Ama Dablam, but it had also left us shattered.

  30 Nov 2015

  The technical challenges of clmbing Ama Dablam were ever present, outside of a tough slog, but strightforward climb to Camp 1, from then onwards, the mountain rewards a climber with some amazing rock climbs, vertical Ice Climbs, steep snow fields, and plenty of abseils. The main summit push started on the 19th with the movement to Camp 1, it was vital to manage the heart rate on this trip to camp 1, as there was a lot more to follow, but it was a challenging trip all the same, carrying extra weight, and the psychological weight of the coming days.

  When we arrived at Camp 1 mid-afternoon, we continued the process of hydration with some noodle soup, and more melted snow delivering us some warm sweet tea. By 5pm, it was getting dark and the night chill quickly moves in up high, and confines you to the tent. Here an iPod with some relaxing music, aided the recovery process, and at about 7pm, the Sherpas droped in some warm food, in the form of ration pack meals, and we filled our water bottles once again. after that it was time for sleep, as much as we could get sleeping so high it was always a challenge, not the mention the -15c.

  In the morning we packed our move to camp 2, this time again it seemed so much harder, once you leave camp 1 its straight on to technical clmbing, with airy traverses, hanging on fixed ropes where you must place full trust in them, we were all wearing our full summit boots now, so the felxibity and sensitivity of these is a lot more limited than the regular boots also, trying not to overgrip, or over work any part of the body, the heart was still pounding, between the high altitude reduced oxygen levels, and the sheer drops on so many sections. The final part to this day was the Yellow tower, althogh I had gained the confidence on this from a previous asscent, it still tested me to the max, the boots and pack certainly made it a different climb. You start the climb by crossing out over some rocky outcrops, with a 2km vertical drop, once the climb on this starts, you are soon under instruction to swing right, meaning you pendulum over the air to a new section more climbable, it continues vertical with limited foot and hand holds for about 20mtrs, it gets every muscle and nerve working at full tilt!

  From the top of the Yellow tower our tent was only 10 mins, Camp 2 is probably the most spectcacular camp site in the world, and was part of the original appeal of this moutain, up close it is a different story, years of build up of human waste, has left it polluted and infectious, I had heard first hand the reports of this, and was very conscious not to jeopardize my summit attempt by picking up infection, the evidence of this was everywhere, simply at night people could not wander for the toilet, so just outside the tent had to do. We settled into Camp 2 and checked and prepared gear, we later got instructions from the Sherpas that summit push was to commence at midnight, and Tsering was to be my Sherpa, a strong and very experienced climber, I knew I was in safe hands.

  We dined on more noodle soup, digestive biscuits, and sweet tea, and rested for the evening, nodding off when nerves would allow. Soon enough we were on the move again, this time was the big day, beyond this point we knew we had 1 chance to make the summit, we had to be tuned in, and proficient, any mistake in prep, or equipement, would see us descending and retreating for another attempt, another year.

  24 Nov 2015

  Tents pitched on the side of a mountain brought their own challenges, including making sure you don't roll over in your sleep! The Sherpa team ensured the white snow if possible was only used to melt for water and for cooking, it's hard to sustain an appetite at altitude but at the same time fuel is required to push up or down the mountain further. Here Furtemba and Norin take shelter while preparing noodle soup for the team, meals were eaten during daylight hours when possible, as it was too difficult and cold to do anything outside of these, once it got dark ideally you needed to be in your tent and sleeping bag. -15/20 or so isn't ideal for wandering around, let alone the hazards of the location. A pee-bottle served two purposes of avoiding late night walks, and acting as a hot water bottle, consuming 3-4 ltrs of water a day to support acclimatisation needed solutions for the tent environment!

  24 Nov 2015

  Thanks so much for all the messages of support, it was an amazing experience, while also testing me to the limit.
   
  I am now on the way out with the team staying tonight in Namche Bazar, I managed to collect some great shots and will share them and they will hopefully give a feel for this expedition.

  Here during the puja I received the blessing of ashes and cord neck chain after the blessing of our equipment, the emphasis on religion and the significance to the Sherpas of praying for a safe climb was always significant, before any movement up the mountain time would be spent at the altar, and on summit night some of the team at base camp arose at 1am to light a fire at the altar again. The entire experience of any of these events at the altar under the shadows of Ama Dablam certainly captured our imiginations and emotions. We know the danger the Sherpa team face and yet our team had so much experience virtually unscathed we could only hope for the same and join in with their traditions!

  21 Nov 2015

  The tricolour proudly raised on the summit...John has safely arrived at Camp 2 after 3 days on what he describes as an "animal of a mountain"...Massive congratulations are in order!

  21 Nov 2015

  At approx 7am this morning we got word of John's successful summit attempt from Ama Dablam's peak (6812m). Waiting on news of a safe descent now. Congratulations John. Such a fantastic achievement so far. More updates to follow.

  An incredibly proud but relieved,
  Aoibhín

  15 Nov 2015

  Today the team made it to Camp 2 (6080m). They dropped off some gear and acclimatised further before heading back to Base Camp. They tackled the infamous Yellow Tower successfully...Two tough days climbing and now time to rest and prepare for a summit push this week. Fingers crossed...all going well.

  14 Nov 2015

  The team have made it safely to Camp 1 today. John also managed to get signal briefly to send the below image of tonight's abode! It was a tough day but the team are feeling ok despite altitude (5700m). Tomorrow they set out for Camp 2. Keep it going lads!

  13 Nov 2015

  Today saw the Puja ceremony...the Lama came from Pangboche to bless the climbing equipment as the Sherpas made offerings and burned incense. Tomorrow marks day one on Ama Dablam as the team climb to Camp One...stay the night and climb to Camp Two Sunday.

  11 Nov 2015

  Sat phone update...all well at base camp today...the team had a walk to 5000m and are acclimatising well. It's late in the season and there are mixed reports and results from other expeditions on Ama Dablam so far this year but the Sherpas are happy that the condition of the mountain itself is good and tomorrow sees another preparation day on the ice.

  10 Nov 2015

  Update via Sat Phone...the team have all arrived on base camp (4570m) and are feeling good. They will settle in there for a day or two preparing for the big fella soon! Hopefully they will have wifi in a couple of days but for now here's an idea of tonight's dwelling!


expid: BEDG15301
peakid: BEDG
year: 2015
route1: S Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Mingma Tsiri Sherpa
sponsor: Ascent Himalayas 1st Beding Go (6125m) Exped 2015
ascent1: 1st
countries: Brazil, Canada, Ireland, Norway
bcdate: 2015-10-17
smtdate: 2015-10-21
smttime: 1430
termdate: 2015-10-22
campsites: BC(17/10,4900m),Smt(21/10)
agency: Ascent Himalayas
routememo:
  Detailas excerpted from web story by Cian O'Brolchain at

    http://gripped.com/news/canadians-on-nepal-first-ascent-with-strong-team/   

  The team of Mingma Tsiri, Furtemba, Pasang Tenzing, Nima Gyalzen, Tshering Pemba and Cian O'Brolchain from Ascent Himalayas along with two Canadians, two Norwegians and one Brazilian trekked into the Rolwaling valley in mid-October and established base camp above Beding at 4900m on 17 October below the S Face of Beding Go.

  After two days of acclimatizing at base camp while the Sherpas went route-finding and rope-fixing, the team started their ascent at 2:30 am of the mornng of 20 Oct up the 600m technical S Face which included several difficult rock pillars.

  Along the way, Stein Arve suffered from altitude and was led back to BC by Furtemba. Later Sean Konigs and Eystein Grusd abandoned the climb due to altitude and exahaustion.

  Quoted from O'Brolchain:

  Dean, myself and Dino were feeling tired but I knew we could keep going as there was three pillars left and Mingma thought we could climb them in three hours. After more traverses and climbing up and down the rock pillars, the summit was getting closer. Tsering and Nima were near the last pillar and doing a great job putting in the fixed line. Mingma, Pasang, Dean, Dino and myself decided we would keep going.

  There were many parts of the ridge that looked like it would be easy climbing but turned out to be more difficult and dangerous that it looked. While I was on a narrow snow section of the ridge, bits of snow were falling off leaving smooth rock underneath that was very difficult to get across.

  As we got closer to the final summit rock pillar, it was clear that this was going to be the hardest. The angle of the rock was jutting out with lots of loose rock falling to either side. I could see Tsering on the final rock pillar with Nima belaying and Pasang helping. As myself and Dean got to the last section, Tsering was standing on the summit with the Nepalese flag. It was amazing to see him, Nima Galzen and Pasang standing up there with the flag. A Himalayan first ascent. I was so happy for the Sherpas to have made the summit and be part of their expedition. Now all I had to do was try and climb up there to join them.

  When I reached the summit pillar, I knew I had to use all the energy I had in the tank to climb it. We had been climbing for nearly 12 hours at this stage. It had been tough climbing all the way to this point. I started climbing the last bit being very careful not to put my hands or feet on any loose rock. There was a lot of exposure on either side of the pillar and lots of loose rock. I started climbing up and at one section of it, I tried to move out to the left on the Nepal side but a big rock fell from underneath my feet. Then I moved back to the center of the pillar. As I climbed a bit higher a came to a difficult part and got stuck there for a few minutes.

  Holding on with my arms and trying to move my feet higher, was proving difficult. The other problem was the rope was slack and I couldn’t move the jumar up without letting go of my arms. After another couple of minutes my arms started to shake. I let go with one arm to try and tighten the rope in order to move the jumar. Next minute I fell and swung onto the right side of the pillar with a huge drop below me into Tibet. Hanging on the rope I got back onto the rock. Was able to tighten the rope and move the jumar bit higher and began to climb again. Was so happy the rope didn’t snap as there was so much sharp rock around. Tsering and the guys did a great job with the anchors and fixing the rope. I climbed the last part of the summit pillar without any problems, a few rocks fell on either side beneath my feet and then did a bit of a scramble to get onto the narrow summit.

  Soon after Dino and Mingma followed. It was amazing to be up there with Tsering, Pasang, Nima, Dean, Dino, and Mingma. We reached the summit after 12 hours of climbing at 14.30. As it was getting late, we knew we only had a short time on the summit and had to make a quick descent as there was so many technical sections we had to overcome to get down and wanted to make it off the ridge before dark. The winds were picking up and it would begin to get very cold.

  After some photos, video and congratulations on the summit with views of Everest, Cho Oyu, Ama Dablam and some other amazing mountains surrounding us, it was time to get off the summit. As we abseiled, traversed, and arm wrapped down, we could see that Dino was exhausted. The wind starting picking up and both Mingma and Pasang were helping Dino to move as quickly as he could to get off the ridge before dark came.

  I knew it was going to be hard to get down after we had pushed so hard on the mountain to reach the summit. We got off the ridge just after dark and was a big relieve as the wind picked up and people were getting cold. We slowly made our way down the south face of Beding Go, being careful not to let any loose rock fall on the people below.

  Once we reached the bottom of the ropes, we still had to make our way across the glacier and back to our crampon point. It was so good to see some of our kitchen staff at crampon point with hot juice and water. It was midnight at this stage and we still had an hour or so to make it back to our base camp. We reached base camp at 1.30 a.m. and was relieved that all the team had made it back safe to our base camp safe and were resting."


expid: ACHN15301
peakid: ACHN
year: 2015
route1: NW side
nation: Japan
leaders: Hiroki Senda
sponsor: Doshisha University Alpine Club Western Nepal Expedition 2015
ascent1: 1st
approach: Simikot->Chuwa Khola
smtdate: 2015-09-03
smttime: 1315
campsites: Smt(03,08/09)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Comment from Yuki Senda, Leader of the Western Nepal Expedition Party 2015, Doshisha Alpine Club: 

  "Doshisha Alpine Club marked its 90th anniversary in 2015 by embarking on an overseas expedition to scale Mt. Aichyn (6055m), an unclimbed mountain located in western Nepal. The first party reached the summit at 1:12 pm on September 3, followed by the second party at 12:54 pm on September 8."

  Note: Summit dates in this record provided by the Nepal Ministry of Tourism.


expid: MANA15313
peakid: MANA
year: 2015
route1: NE Face
nation: UK
leaders: Phil Crampton
sponsor: Altitude Junkies Manaslu Expedition 2015
countries: Canada, China, Colombia, S Africa, Sweden, USA
approach: Samagaon by helicopter
bcdate: 2015-09-01
smtdate: 2015-09-24
termdate: 2015-09-27
termnote: Abandoned at 6750m due to slab avalanche danger and Sherpa crevasse fall
campsites: BC(01/09,4800m),C1(07/09,5600m),C2(10/09,6400m),C3(24/09,6750m),xxx
agency: Expedition Himalaya
routememo:
  From Altitude Junkies dispatches:

  29 Aug - Samagaon by helicopter.
  01 Sep - Trekked up to base camp.
  03 Sep - puja ceremony.
  05 Sep - Sherpas carried to C1 and members up to C1 site and back to BC.
  06 Sep - rest day.
  07 Sep - members to C1 for the night; Sherpas fixed ropes to C2.
  08 Sep - members back to BC.
  09 Sep - members to C1.
  10 Sep - members to C2 for night; back to BC next day.
  13 Sep - at BC during bad weather;
           five members down to Samagaon, then to Ktmdu for rest.
  15 Sep - with continuing bad weather, team cancels summit bit planned for 21 Sep.
  16 Sep - five members return from Ktmdu.
  18 Sep - seventh day of persisting bad weather.
  20 Sep - bad weather continues; some members trek up to C1 and back.
  23 Sep - members up to C2 in spite of bad weather.
  24 Sep - members climb to C3.
  25 Sep - Sherpa injured by crevasse fall while carrying load to C4 at 7200m.
  26 Sep - expedition terminated due to high risks of slab avalances.

  Dispatch #17 - September 26, 2015 - Base Camp

  We should have been on the summit of Manaslu this morning but things didn't quite work out the way they usually do for us.

  Our team members made the big climb to camp two from base camp on the 23rd. The following day they made the short climb to camp three at an elevation of 6,750 meters. I climbed directly to camp three from base camp to meet the team members as I had to check on several weather forecasts at base camp on the evening of the 23rd.

  A very strong Sherpa rope-fixing team consisting of two Sherpas each from the Junkies and Himex as well as a sole Sherpa from Mountain Experience started to fix ropes to camp three on the 24th and continued with the task on the 25th. The guys made great progress fixing through the seracs and the blue ice section and then headed for camp four. Unfortunately, this is where things started to go wrong. They encountered waist deep snow, which left them unable to place safe anchors for the fixed rope. Many Sherpas from both the Junkies and Himex were carrying camp four loads and were following the rope fixers when one of these Sherpas fell into a hidden crevasse. The crevasse opened up to 4 meters wide and about 100 meters long, spanning the entire route, basically cutting off the Sherpas ahead of the crevasse. The Sherpa who fell around 10 meters into the slot was extracted, and then the Sherpas had the task of getting back over the crevasse. They found a way but the snowbridge they crossed was unstable to say the least. Whilst traversing the slot to descend, they triggered a small avalanche that did not harm them but gave them a fright. I am glad to say that the Sherpa who fell into the crevasse was not badly injured and made it down safely to base camp. He is now back in Kathmandu.

  The following day another team's Sherpas were collecting loads from the high point and were exposed to another slab avalanche which luckily missed harming them.

  After the events of the 25th, it was decided for all team members and Sherpas to descend to base camp to assess the situation. Back at base camp on that evening, there was a meeting of all team leaders present to see who would be able to assist the Sherpas from the Junkies and Himex to possibly fix the route to camp four. The Junkies Sherpas have spent more days rope fixing than any other team on the mountain, and have the Himex Sherpas who collaborated with them to thank for all the days they have donated to fixing ropes. The Junkies and Himex have also provided the majority of rope, hardware and ladders between them for all the expeditions present.

  The largest team present, Seven Summit Treks, have now offered to fix ropes to camp four as the Sherpas from the Junkies and Himex have given all they can. The waist deep snow on the way to camp four is a concern for wind slab avalanches. To deviate from the normal route around the large crevasse involves a long exposed traverse under overhanging seracs which is not an ideal situation to be in for the team members and Sherpas.

  The new group of Sherpas who are now fixing ropes to camp four hope to have this job done by the 28th but we are expecting high winds to be present for several days making the job of technical rope fixing somewhat dangerous. Many teams are now hoping for an October 1st or 2nd summit window, which will mean 100 western climbers and around 60 Sherpas all going for the summit on the same two days. Manaslu has a very narrow summit ridge and it will be impossible for all the climbers to reach the true summit. Many will have to be happy for the fore-summit, also known as the col, which was the summit for many teams in 2008.

  Some of our team members have been waying up their options and have decided, with the present conditions on the mountains of slab avalanches happening, the large open crevasse blocking the route, and the uncertainity of the rope fixers completing their job, to descend to Samagaon where they will take a helicopter back to Kathmandu. Several other teams are now having some members depart their respective expeditions based on the conditions of the mountain and the number of climbers present. Our other team members are going to wait at base camp and see how things work out with establishing the route to camp four and the problematic crevasse blocking the route.

  Even before the start of this expedition, the Sherpas and I had decided to climb Dhaulagiri next season instead of Manaslu. This is our eighth year here and we have been successful on all our previous Manaslu expeditions. We wonder if she is being so problematic this season because she feels slighted that we want to visit another beautiful peak next year and not her.

  Phil Crampton


  Carina Ahlqvist - 18 Jan 2018

  For your questions I can only respond for Altitude Junkies that I was part of 2015. As I remember everyone in our whole team reached camp 3 at 6800 meter. We stayed over the night at camp 3 and Himex with Russell Brice team that were about 100-200 meter from us with the same summit attempt schedule. There was an avalanche between our camps in the night, but didn't come too close to our tents. It was very windy for Himex that were more exposed to the wind, but we were fine. According to my notes that I took on a daily basis it was September 24th on the way to camp 4 (which is the highest camp) that the Sherpa fell into the crevasse and then they came back again to go to a hospital in Kathmandu. No team member continued further by that time. It was only Sherpa fixing ropes that reached that crevasse. We were doing our attempt for the summit push together with Russell Brice and the Sherpa who fell into the crevasse was in his team. I don't remember his name though and only noted that he was from Russell's team, but not his name. I asked the question now to one of the Sherpa in our team that I still stay in contact, with but he has not yet responded. I would suggst you ask Russell for the name.

  Carina Ahlqvist - 19 Jan 2018

  The Sherpa who fell Into the crevasse was Namgyal Sherpa from Himex, Russell Brice expedition.


expid: AMAD15315
peakid: AMAD
year: 2015
route1: SW Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Tim Mosedale
sponsor: Tim Mosedale's Ama Dablam Autumn 2015
countries: Spain, Sweden
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche
bcdate: 2015-11-15
smtdate: 2015-11-29
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2015-12-01
campsites: BC(15/11,4750m),ABC(18/11,5400m),C1(22/11,5800m),C2(28/11,6000m),Smt(29/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Extracted from Mosedale's website:

  15 Nov - arrived at base camp (4750m).
  16 Nov - rest day, puja ceremony.
  17 Nov - trekked to ABC site (5400m) and back to BC.
  18 Nov - moved to ABC to sleep for two nights.
  20 Nov - returned to base camp.
  21 Nov - moved back up to ABC.
  22 Nov - climbed up to C1 to sleep (5800m).
  23 Nov - climbed up to Yellow Tower (6000m, back to base camp.
  24 Nov - rest day
  25 Nov - rest day, waiting for good conditions.
  26 Nov - rest day, waiting for good conditions.
  27 Nov - climbed back up to C1.
  28 Nov - climbed up to C2 (6000m) in preparation for summit bid.
  29 Nov - started for summit at 3:00 am, on top at 1:00 pm, returned to C2 at
           8:30 pm. 3 clients out of 8 summited.
  30 Nov - returned to base camp.


expid: AMAD15316
peakid: AMAD
year: 2015
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Ireland
leaders: Patrick Cave
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Ama Dablam Expedition 2015 (Group I)
countries: Canada, Germany, Sweden, UK, USA
smtdate: 2015-12-03
smttime: 1100
campsites: Smt(03/12)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  This expedition was composed of small teams climbing independently during November and December 2015.

  Patrick Cave was the only successful summiter along with his client Stefani Mathar and Chayang Jangbu Bhote.


expid: AMAD15319
peakid: AMAD
year: 2015
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Florian Brose
sponsor: Himalayan Guides International Ama Dablam Expedition 2015
countries: France, Netherlands, Spain, USA
smtdate: 2015-11-02
smttime: 1300
campsites: Smt(02,12,19/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  This expedition was composed of small teams climbing independently during October and November 2015. 


expid: AMAD15329
peakid: AMAD
year: 2015
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: Helmut Rettensteiner
sponsor: Austrian-German Ama Dablam Expedition 2015
countries: Germany
smtdate: 2015-10-25
smttime: 0900
campsites: BC,C1,C2,Smt(25/10)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal permit
routememo:
  According to Andreas Lattner, 1 Austrian summited 2 days later: Helmut Rettensteiner, Mountain Guide. 10 hours from C2 to summit back to C1; client with him, but he turned back on way to C2, not feeling well.

  Note: Ministry gives Lattner summit date as 24 Oct and Rettensteiner summit date as 25 Oct.


expid: AMAD15317
peakid: AMAD
year: 2015
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Cleo Weidlich
sponsor: Himalayan Guides Ama Dablam Expedition 2015 (Group II)
countries: Argentina, France, India, Italy, Japan, UK
smtdate: 2015-11-08
smttime: 0930
campsites: Smt(08,11,19/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  This expedition was composed of small teams climbing independently during October and November 2015.

  Paola Favero and Melanie Southworth summited together on 8 Nov.

  Steven Berry and Ray Smith climbed as a team in late November.


expid: AMAD15318
peakid: AMAD
year: 2015
route1: SW Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Brent Bishop
sponsor: Berg Adventures International (BAI) Ama Dablam Expedition 2015
countries: Sweden
bcdate: 2015-11-02
smtdate: 2015-11-11
smttime: 0915
termdate: 2015-11-13
campsites: BC(02/11,4700m),ABC(02/11,5360m),C1(30/11,5800m),C2(09/11,6000m),C3(10/11,6250m),Smt(11/11)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  22/10 - Helicopter flight to Lukla
  24/10 - Rest day in Namche
  26/10 - Lama blessing at Thyangboche
  27/10 - Rest day at Pheriche
  31/10 - Attempted Lobuche (turned back by bad weather)
  01/11 - Arrived at Ama Dablam BC
  02/11 - Climbed to Yak Camp (5360m)
  03/11 - Climbed to C1
  04/11 - Returned to BC
  08/11 - Climbed to C1
  09/11 - Climbed to C2 (Brent, Johanna, Jen, Palden)
  10/11 - Climbed to C3 (Brent, Jen and Palden); Johanna descended due to stomach bug
  11/11 - Summited (Brent, Jen and Palden), descended to C2
  13/11 - Returned to Pangboche


expid: AMAD15330
peakid: AMAD
year: 2015
route1: SW Ridge
nation: Poland
leaders: Mariusz Auguscik
sponsor: Polish Ama Dablam Expedition
countries: USA
approach: Lukla->Namche->Chhukung->Pangboche
bcdate: 2015-11-13
smtdate: 2015-11-19
smttime: 1406
termdate: 2015-11-22
othersmts: Climbed Chhukung Ri
campsites: BC(13/11,4700m),C1(17/11,5800m),C2(18/11,6000m),Smt(11/19)
agency: Bochi Bochi Treks permit
routememo:
  Google translated excepts from Facebook post:

  Ama Dablam 2015

  13 Nov - arrived at BC
  15 Nov - climbed to C1 to deposit gear, returned to BC.
  16 Nov - rest day
  17 Nov - climbed to C1 (5800m)
  18 Nov - climbed to C2 (6000m)
  19 Nov - departed at 3:00 am; 8 hours to C3 site at 6400, then 3 hours to summit
           arriving at 14:06; returned to C2 at 21:30.
  20 Nov - returned to C1, then down to BC
  21 Nov - rest day
  22 Nov - departed BC, trekked to Namche.


expid: ANN115401
peakid: ANN1
year: 2015
route1: N Face
nation: Norway
leaders: Tore Sunde-Rasmussen
sponsor: Ascent Himalayas Norwegian-Irish Annapurna I Expedition 2015
countries: Ireland
termnote: Abandoned at 5600m due to constant high winds
campsites: BC,C1(5300m),C2(5600m),xxx
agency: Ascent Himalayas
routememo:
  From Ascent Himalayas Facebook post:

  11 December 2015

  Ascent Himalayas Winter Annapurna 1 Update: Tore Sunde Rasmussen (Norway) who was on expedition with a goal to make the summit and be the first Norwegian has to cancel the expedition because he was rescued yesterday from camp 1 as he was suffered by HACE and it was a good decision to return to Kathmandu as slowly its was getting harder and if he had continued to climb then the result have been bad. Although it was sad to return and cancel the expedition on the other point safety comes first so we respect for his good decision and mountain will be always there so we we will better try next time. And other Irish climber Gavan and our climbing Guide went to camp 2 and other sherpa team are at camp 1 and they are struggling with the extreme weather as few days the weather has been bad with a high wind so everyone is waiting up there for a good weather so that they can head forward to fix the route and make the summit. We ascent himalays team wish them very best of luck and pray for a good weather and will keep you updated. Thanks

  12 December 2015

  Ascent Himalayas Winter Annapurna 1 Update: According to Mingma, Gavan and some sherpas went to Base camp for rest while other sherpas team are at camp 1 waiting for good weather to fix the route. Swedish expedition group went to camp 2 today and hopefully they will fix the route to camp 3 tomorrow and if they are successful to fix it then our team will go the fix the route for camp 4 to summit. Till now everyone is in good shape. And we pray for their successful summit and safe return to Kathmandu.

  From Gavan Hennigan Facebook posts:

  24 December 2015

  Annapurna I winter expedition which I just came back from, here our group coming back from C2 to C1 across the glacier.

  I joined this expedition with the hope of being the first Irishman to summit the 10th highest mountain in the world and would have been one a handful of people to have done it in winter, but we got shut down by very strong summit winds that raged upto 150 km/h the entire time we were there.


expid: EVER15179
peakid: EVER
year: 2015
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Neil Laughton
sponsor: Everest 2015 Summit Climb & Highest Dinner Pary
approach: Kodari->Tingri
bcdate: 2015-04-17
smtdate: 2015-04-25
termdate: 2015-05-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6400m due to earthquake in Nepal
campsites: BC(17/04,5300m),ABC(25/04,6400m),xxx(25/04,6400m)
agency: Asian Trekking
primid: EVER15103
routememo:
  BC  17/04  5300m
  ABC 25/04  6400m
  Hpt 25/04  6400m at ABC by Atkins, Black, Bradshaw, McMahon, Naywr, Watson
             of the British Army expedition, plus the members of the North Col
             Dinner expedition: Law, Mason, Llewellyn-Davies and Elliman. 

  Team was enroute to ABC when the earthquake happened. They were on the medial moraine about 2/3 up the route to ABC. The ground shook and ice towers collapsed left and right. They carried on to reach ABC; however, afterwards all movement was banned.

  From Expedition website:

  A Guinness World Record Attempt

  In April 2015, a British expedition will set out to climb Mt Everest by the North Ridge. En-route to the top, they will attempt to break the Guinness World Record for the Highest formal black tie Dinner Party.

  The menu has been devised by Sat Bains, the Two Michelin Star Chef, who will accompany the team and cook the record breaking meal high on the mountain. In a symbolic gesture to thank the Sherpa community for its many sacrifices, the expedition climbers will serve the high altitude Sherpas to this delicious meal.

  The expedition will be undertaken by a team of British businessmen with a passion for mountaineering and with a real desire to give something back to the Sherpa community both through highlighting their sacrifices in the world's media and assisting Community Action Nepal with their work. Some are experienced alpinists with high altitude mountaineering experience, others are looking to make their first 8000m summit.

  The team will fly out to Tibet in early April 2015 and take the world's highest railway journey from Beijing to Lhasa. After a few days acclimatisation, they will drive across the Tibetan Plateau and then set up Base Camp in the Rongbuk Valley. The Team will rest for a few days before commencing their trek and climb to the North Col at circa 7100m (23,293 ft). Following the formal black tie dinner, sponsored by GH Mumm, the team members who will be wearing top of the range mountain clothing by Canada Goose, will return to Base Camp. The Summit Team will then prepare for their climb to the top.


expid: ANN116101
peakid: ANN1
year: 2016
route1: N Face
nation: Nepal
leaders: Lakpa Sherpa
sponsor: Himalayan Ascent Annapurna Expedition 2016
countries: Australia, USA
bcdate: 2016-03-16
smtdate: 2016-05-01
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2016-05-04
othersmts: Attempted Dhaulagiri I (DHA1-161-01)
campsites: BC(16/03,4200m),C1(21/03,5000m),C2(23/03,5700m),C3(14/04,6400m),C4(30/04,7200m),Smt(01/05)
accidents: None
achievment: Burke was 1st New Zealander and 2nd Australian to the top
agency: Himalayan Ascent
routememo:
  Summit team set off for summit on 30 April at 10:00 pm. It was windy, cold and cloudy. Pema Tshering and some Sherpas from Seven Summit Treks were fixing the ropes. The ropes were exhausted below the Couloir (about 7800m) and the climbers resorted to roping up. Snow was soft and sugary in the couloir.

  Team reached summit at 10:30 am, and spent less than 10 minutes as it was very cold. On descent they reached C4 at about 1 pm. The following day the team descended to BC, apart from Du Puy and Pema Tshering who stayed at C1 for another night.

  Other teams who summited were Kim Mi-Gon from Korea, Luo Jing and Norbu Sherpa, Carlos Soria's team, Atanas Skatov, Nadav, Klein, Kobusch and Mario Vielmo.

  Fixed rope: 
    3000m together with Seven Summit Treks Sherpas to 7800m.

  Oxygen:
    From C4 to summit to just above C4.

  The entire team went to Dhaulagiri I after the expedition.


expid: DHA116101
peakid: DHA1
year: 2016
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Lakpa Sherpa
sponsor: Himalayan Ascent Dhaulagiri 1 Expedition 2016
countries: Australia, USA
approach: From Annapurna I BC
bcdate: 2016-05-08
smtdate: 2016-05-17
termdate: 2016-05-19
termnote: Abandoned at 7300m due to exhaustion from Annapurna I expedition
othersmts: Summited Annapurna I (ANN1-161-01)
campsites: BC(08/05,4700m),C1(15/05,5800m),C2(16/05,6600m),xxx(17/05,7300m)
accidents: None
agency: Himalayan Ascent
primid: ANN116101
routememo:
  Pema Tshering Sherpa reached 7300m and Lakpa Sherpa and Burke reached 6800m on 17 May. Matt Du Puy reached 5800m on 15 May, but then descended due heat and exhaustion.

  Team then retreated as everyone felt very tired after the Annapurna 1 expedition.

  Trip to C1 was very hot and trip to C2 was extremely cold. Good snow conditions on the mountain.

  Fixed rope: None

  Oxygen:
    Used from 6700m to about 6800m by Burke, just to see if it would speed her up.


expid: ANN116102
peakid: ANN1
year: 2016
route1: N Face
nation: Spain
leaders: Carlos Soria
sponsor: Annapurna BBVA Expedition 2016
approach: By helicopter to BC
bcdate: 2016-03-16
smtdate: 2016-05-01
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2016-05-03
campsites: BC(16/03,4200m),C1(20/03,5200m),C2(22/04,5700m),C3(29/04,6600m),C4(30/04,7100m),Smt(01/05)
accidents: None
achievment: Soria oldest person to climb Annapurna I (77 years old)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Team began summit bid from C4 on 30 April at 7:00 pm. They reached the summit on 1 May at 10:00 am, spent 15 minutes on the summit and then descended to C4. It was very windy on summit day (about 50/60 km/h at least).

  Luis Carcavilla only went to C2, then returned home because of job affairs.

  Fixed rope:
    From BC->C1, C2->C3, C3->C4

  Oxygen:
    From 7100m to summit to 7100m by all.

  Sherpas:
    Mingtemba, 26, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Everest, Kangch, Gasherbrum I & II
    Temba [Bhote], 33, Makalu
    Lakpa Nuru, 27, Solukhumbu
    Nima Wangdak, 21, Makalu
    Pemba Thinduk, 33, Makalu
    Phurba, 32, Makalu


expid: ANN116103
peakid: ANN1
year: 2016
route1: N Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Mario Vielmo
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Annapurna Expedition 2016
countries: Bulgaria, China, Germany, Hungary, Israel, Japan, Romania, Russia, Switzerland, Turkey
bcdate: 2016-03-16
smtdate: 2016-04-30
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2016-05-04
campsites: BC(16/03,4200m),C1(5100m),C2(5600m),C3(6500m),C4A(7100m),C4B(7300m),Smt(30/04,01/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Seven Summit Treks Annapurna expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Seven Summits provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below.

  Two summit attempts were made by group members: the first in mid-April which failed for all, and the second at the end of April which succeeded on 30 April and 1 May.


  Nadav Ben Yehuda (Israel)

  Name:  First Israeli to Annapurna Expedition 2016 
  Camps: BC(16/03,4200m),C1(23/03,5100m),C2(24/03,5600m),C3(13/04,6500m),
         C4(30/04,7300m),Smt(01/05)
  Left:  03/05/2016
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success (9:10 am)

  Ben Yehuda and Chhepal Sherpa left for summit from the higher C4 on 30 April at 10:30 pm. They reached the summit at 9:10 am, stayed 5 minutes, and then returned to the higher C4 at 5 pm.

  It was very windy, but conditions Ok. No fixed rope above 7400m which was very scary for Ben Yehuda. The last slope to the summit was rather steep. They spent about 5 minutes on the summit and on their way down, they met David Klein and Jost Kobusch. Ben Yehuda and Kobusch played a chess match on Kobusch's iPhone about 20m below the summit.

  [See note from Chris Burke below.]

  Oxygen:
    Ben Yehuda used from 7400m to summit to 7900m
    Chhepal used from 7400m to summit to 7400m

  Sherpa:
    Chhepal, Makalu


  Guntis Brands (Switzerland)

  Name:  None
  Camps: BC(16/03,4100m),C1(20/03,5200m),C2(25/03,5700m),C3(15/04,6400m),xxx
  Left:  04/05/2016
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned at 7800m due to severe cold (fingers)

  Summit bid on evening of 30 April. Turned around at 7800m due to severe cold (fingers were in danger of frostbite).

  Fixed rope:
    By Seven Summit Treks Sherpas all the way.

  Oxygen:
    Used from C4 to high point.


  Tunc Findik (Turkey)

  Name:  None
  Camps: BC(16/03,4100m),C1(20/03,5200m),C2(25/03,5700m),C3(15/04,6400m),xxx
  Left:  18/04/2016
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned at 6400m due to high winds

  On 15 April Findik reached C3 together with Guntis Brands. The night was very windy and Findik decided to descend the following day. He went to BC and decided to abandon the expedition.


  Alex Gavan (Romania)

  Name:  None
  Camps: BC(16/03,4100m),C1(20/03,5200m),C2(25/03,5700m),xxx(05/04,6200m)
  Left:  08/04/2016
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned at 6200m due to dangerous seracs (bad gut feeling about the
         mountain)

  On 5 April Gavan was climbing towards C3 and he had a gut feeling that he should go down and leave the mountain. He had just moved underneath the seracs and it became clear to him that this would be too dangerous in the long run, especially with so many people on the mountain. He descended to BC the same day.


  David Klein (Hungary)

  Name:  Johnnie Walker Annapurna 1 Expedition 2016
  Camps: BC(24/03,4200m),C1(26/03,5100m),C2(29/03,5600m),C3(05/04,6500m),
         C4A(15/04,7000m),C4B(30/04,7300m),Smt(01/05)
  Left:  03/05/2016
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Success at 1:30 pm

  Klein started summit bid from high C4 (7300m) on 30 April at 11:15 pm, reached summit at 1:30 pm, stayed for 20 minutes, then descended to high C4 at 7 pm. Klein summited with Kobusch and Vielmo, who were also with Seven Summit Treks.

  Klein together with Kobusch stayed the night at the higher C4 at 7300m and they left for their summit attempt at 11:15 pm on 30 April. They were the last to leave of the Seven Summit Treks team as they had problems with their stove. For the first 3 hours the wind was getting stronger; some of the gusts were about 50 km/h. At around 3 am they were contemplating retreating as they got very cold. However, when the sun came out it warmed up and they continued.

  Around sunrise they caught up with Mario Vielmo (also Seven Summit Treks) and the three climbed together. They used the fixed rope from the first summit attempt on 15 April; however, the rope stopped at about 7500m (half way of the traverse). They had to manage the rest of the climb without fixed ropes.

  The couloir was difficult with a lot of loose rock and snow.

  Oxygen: Not used


  Jost Kobusch (Germany)

  Name:  Just Go For It Annapurna I Expedition 2016 
  Camps: BC(16/03,4200m),C1(18/03,5100m),C2(19/03,5600m),C3(14/04,6500m),
         C4A(15/04,7000m),C4B(30/04,7300m),Smt(01/05)
  Left:  03/05/2016
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Success at 9:10 am

  Kobusch and Klein left higher C4 at 7300m at 11:15 pm on 30 April. They were the last climbers to leave of the Seven Summit Treks team as they had problems with their stove. For the first 3 hours the wind was getting stronger; some gusts were about 50 km/h. At around 3 am they were contemplating retreating as they got very cold. It got warmer when the sun came out and felt much better.

  Around sunrise they caught up with Mario Vielmo and the three climbed together. They used the fixed rope from the first summit attempt on 15 April, but it stopped at about 7500m (half way of the traverse). They reached the summit on 1 May at 13:30 pm, stayed about 20 minutes, then returned to C4 at 7 pm. The following day Kobusch descended to BC.

  A few thousand meters of fixed rope were set by the Seven Summit Treks Sherpas.

  Oxygen: Not used


  Luo Jing (China)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(16/03,4200m),C1(27/04,5100m),C2(24/03,5600m),C3(26/03,6500m),
         C4A(15/04,6500m),C4B(30/04,7000m),Smt(01/05)
  Left:  03/05/2016
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success at 9:10 am

  The first time Luo Jing spent a night at C1 was on her summit push rotation, hence the later date for sleeping in C1.

  Luo Jing and Chhiji Nurbu Sherpa started their summit from high C4 (7300m) on 30 April at 11:30 pm. They reached the summit at 9:10 am, stayed 30 minutes, then descended to C3 at 4 pm.

  Straightforward climb. No fixed rope above 7500m.

  On the descent, they wanted to spend the night at the higher C4 (7300m), however their tent was blown away and they were forced to continue to C3.

  Oxygen:
    Luo Jing from C4 to summit to C3.
    Chhiji Nurbu from C4 to summit to C4.

  Sherpa:
    Chhiji Nurbu Sherpa, Upper Walung, Makalu Barun, 30/07/1080


  Boyan Petrov (Bulgaria)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(16/03,4200m),C1(18/03,5100m),C2(19/03,5600m),C3(13/04,6500m),
         C4(14,29/04,7000m),Smt(30/04)
  Left:  03/05/2016
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Success at 2 pm

  Petrov started his summit bid from the lower C4 (7000m) on 30 April at 3:34 am, reached the summit at 2:00 pm, stayed 30 minutes, and then returned to lower C4 at 5:30 pm.

  He was on his own as he wanted to use the good weather window. He used the ropes that were fixed during the first summit attempt on 15 April. There were no fixed ropes above 7500m. Excellent conditions, only about 60 cm of snow in the couloir.

  Seven Summit Treks Sherpas and the Sherpas of the Korean team fixed a few thousand meters of rope.


  Dmitri Sinev (Russia)
  Alexander Lutokhin (Russia)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(08/04,4200m),C1(09/04,5000m),C2(10/04,5650m),C3(16/04,6500m),
         C4(29/04,7000m),xxx(30/04,7900m)
  Left:  03/05/2016
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned at 7900m due to tiredness and lateness in the day

  Sinev and Lutokhin left C4 at 2 am on 30 April. They reached the high point of 7900m at 3:30 pm. Conditions were good, weather was good for climbing. Physically they were well, but tired. It was too late to carry on, so they descended to C4 reaching it at 8:30 pm. The following day, they reached C2. On 2 May to BC.


  Atanas Skatov (Bulgaria)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(16/03,4200m),C1(19/03,5050m),C2(23/03,5600m),C3(14/04,6500m), 
         C4(15/04,6985m),Smt(01/05)
  Left:  03/05/2016
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success (10:10 am)

  Skatov began summit bid from C4 on 30 April at 8:10 pm; reached summit on 1 May at 10:10 am and stayed for 15 minutes; returned to C4 and 7:00 pm.

  Nuri Sherpa, Carlos Soria and his team, Ben-Yehuda from Israel and his Sherpa, Du Puy from USA, Chris Burke and Lakpa Sherpa summited together with Skatov.

  Fixed rope:
    Rope fixed by Nuri Sherpa

  Oxygen:
    Used by Skatov and Nuri Sherpa from C4 to summit to C4.


  Mario Vielmo (Italy)
  Sebastiano Valentini (Italy)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(24/03,4200m),C1(26/03,5100m),C2(30/03,5600m),C3(07/04,6600m),
         C4(30/04,7300m),Smt(01/05)
  Left:  03/05/2016
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success at 1:30 pm

  Vielmo and Pasang left the higher C4 at 7300m at 11 pm on 30 April. The it was windy, but otherwise conditions were good. At about sunrise, Kobusch and Klein (also Seven Summit Treks) caught up with them and they climbed to the summit together.

  They spent about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 7 pm. The following day to BC.

  Valentini reached 6600m on 7 April during their acclimatization rotation. He got frostbite on eight fingers during their descent to BC. They went to see the doctor of Carlos Soria's team to have a look at de Valentini's fingers. He took a heli out of BC on 11 April.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang, Dipsung, Khotang


  Naoko Watanabe (Japan)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(16/03,4200m),C1(23/03,4895m),C2(24/03,5600m),C3(14/04,6310m),
         C4(15/04,7100m),xxx(15/04,7170m)
  Left:  18/04/2016
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 7170m due to route difficulty

  Watanabe and Chhepal Sherpa left C4 at 10:30 pm on 15 April to go for the summit. About 70m out of C44 the route became too difficult for Watanabe and she decided to turn back. They stayed the night at C4 and the following day descended to BC. On 17 April they left C2 at 4 am to descend to BC, where they arrived 9 am. On 18 April Watanabe was picked up by helicopter.

  Oxygen:
    From C4 to high point to C2 by Watanabe
    From C4 to high point to C3 by Chhepal

  Sherpa:
    Chhepal, Patle-2, Okhaldhunga 


  Chris Burke - 22 June 2018

  Jost and Nadav played chess quite a bit below the summit. Matt DuPuy was their witness - they wanted a witness for Guinness, but then they did not qualify for Guinness for other reasons (I think because they did not play for long enough as per their video) - and I think Matt is the one who did their video. I was close to them as they started to play, but then I think it is at that point when I passed them (because they stopped). Jost and the others without Os stopped and sat for quite a while at one stage too on their way up, as I recall.

  Nadav did not summit at 9:10 am because he summited AFTER Matt and me by minutes - we were just starting to descend as he stepped up onto a flat section almost dug out for people to stand on - the Spanish team of Carlos, etc. were in front of me and Lakpa and I recall us having to wait a really long time in the strong winds maybe 30m below the summit whilst they levelled out a flat section for their group to stand on and they took heaps of photos and video. In Nadav's video on Annapurna, I can see Nadav really close to the summit and it pans around and one of the people in front of him in the group is Matt, I'm pretty sure, in a bright red down suit.  Which means, I must be on the up side of the group because Matt came up behind me only a few minutes later. (I checked my photos that I took of Matt nearly at summit and Nadav is right behind him). Luo Jing was ahead of the Spanish, I recall.

  At a guess, if I summited at 10:30 am (as per approx. time on my photos) I reckon Nadav was there 15 mins after Matt. So, maybe even 10:45 am or thereabouts. I remember on the way down meeting the guys without Os still going up, including Jost. Matt might recall the height at which Jost and Nadav played chess, but it was not 'just before the summit'. Maybe it was 9:10 am (so maybe the summit time and chess time were mixed up by someone?).


expid: ANN116104
peakid: ANN1
year: 2016
route1: N Face
nation: S Korea
leaders: Kim Mi-Gon
sponsor: Dream & Challenge 2016 Mt.Annapurna I Expedition
approach: By road to Tatopani, the helicopter to BC
bcdate: 2016-03-16
smtdate: 2016-05-01
smttime: 0753
termdate: 2016-05-03
campsites: BC(16/03,4180m),C1(25/03,5800m),C2(04/04,6400m),C3(15/04,7000m),Smt(01/05)
achievment: 13th 8000er for Kim Mi-Gon
agency: Trekking Camp Nepal
routememo:
  Kim Mi-Gon and two Sherpas departed C3 for summit on 30 April at 9:40 pm, reached the summit on 1 May at 7:53 am, stayed 1 hour, then descended to C3 at11 am, had 30 minutes rest, then continued to BC where they arrived at 10 pm.

  Other members stayed at BC through out the expedition.

  Fixed rope:
    Contributed 1200m for rope-fixing by Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Sanu, Makalu-9
    Pasang Nuru, Gudel-4


expid: ANN116105
peakid: ANN1
year: 2016
route1: S Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Nobukazu Kuriki
sponsor: Kuriki Annapurna 1 South Face Expedition
approach: Via helicopter to Annapurna South BC
bcdate: 2016-04-13
smtdate: 2016-05-10
termdate: 2016-05-13
termnote: Abandoned at 6290m due to leg injury from falling ice
othersmts: Attempted Singu Chuli (6501m); summited Chulu West (6419m) on 21 April
campsites: BC(13/04,4100m),ABC(02/05,5010m),C1(04,10/05,6290m),xxx
agency: Bochi Bochi Treks
routememo:
  From Kurik's blog (http://lineblog.me/kuriki/)

  Ap 13 - Arrived in Annapurna South BC (4100m) by helicopter.

  Ap 17 - Attempted Singu Chuli (6501m) for acclimatization; stopped short of 
          summit due to heavy crevassing.

  Ap 18 - Flew to Chuli West (6419m) by helicopter for further acclimatization.

  Ap 21 - Summited Chuli West.

  Ap 22 - Returned to Annapurna South BC by helicopter.

  Apr 23 to May 1 - Period of bad weather

  May 02 - Moved up to ABC at 5010m.

  May 04 - Climbed up the south wall to 6290m.

  May 05 - Descended back to ABC, then to back to BC.

  May 10 - Started up south wall from ABC at 3:40 am, arrived at 6290m at 10:15 am.
           Planned to spend day at 6290m, then climb to 7000m the next day. But
           suffered leg injury from falling ice during the climb to 6290m.

  May 11 - Kuriki returned to ABC due to swelling and pain from leg injury.

  May 12 - Returned to BC.


  From Kuriki's Facebook page:

  11 May 2016

  Today I was going to climb over 7000m, but a block of ice fell on my left knee yesterday while climbing, and I couldn't have my full strength to climb the south face before time limit of good weather.

  Weather forecast said that it would be surrounded by clouds by 9-10am, and with my injured knee, I wouldn't be able to climb by the time, which will risk life.
  Therefore, I decided to descend from here at 6290m.

  10 May 2016

  Kuriki departed advance base camp at 3:40 am and started climbing the south face at 6:00 am today.

  At 10:15 am (Nepali time), Kuriki reached 6290m and pitched his tent for today.
  The first 3 photos were taken at 6 am, second 3 photos were at 9 am, and the last 3 were at 10:15 when he got to 6290m. All the photos were taken from the base camp of Annapurna.

  9 May 2016

  I will leave the advanced base camp at 3 am on 10th.

  I'm getting ready for the departure now.

  After I start climbing, my account can only show you pictures of me like a small dot in the mountain, but I want to share my adventure with you.

  When I climbed up to 6190m on 4th May, I realized that not only physical strength are necessary, but also it burns out psychologically. I really need to focus all my energy.


expid: ANN316101
peakid: ANN3
year: 2016
route1: SE Ridge
nation: Austria
leaders: David Lama
sponsor: Austrian Annapurna III Expedition 2016
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 2016-04-08
smtdate: 2016-04-28
termdate: 2016-05-10
campsites: BC(08/04,4600m),Biv1(26/04,6000m),Biv2(27/04),Biv3(28/04,6500m),xxx
agency: Shangri-La Nepal Treks
termnote:
  Abandoned at 6500m due to bad weather during the attempt and bad weather forecast for the following days

routememo:
  After acclimatizing on the E Ridge of Annapurna III, we rested a few days in BC and then started our attempt on 26 April. We had a reasonable weather forecast and the first day up to about 6000m went without any problems. We climbed fast and belayed less than 200m that day. The next morning we started climbing on the actual ridge. We climbed 7 pitches in pretty bad weather and the terrain proved to be tricky and difficult. Almost all pitches required some aid climbing, but most of all the weather and bad snow conditions we found on the ridge slowed us down. On day three we climbed 6 slightly more difficult pitches in the same weather and snow conditions up to the break/shoulder at about 6500m. We spend the night there and then the whole next day to get back to BC.


expid: BURK15301
peakid: BURK
year: 2015
route1: SE Buttress-S Face
nation: USA
leaders: Garrett Madison
sponsor: Burke Khang Expedition 2015
countries: Bosnia-Herzegovina
approach: Lukla->Namche Bazaar->Gokyo->Base Camp
bcdate: 2015-10-30
smtdate: 2015-11-10
termdate: 2015-11-12
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to dangerous conditions on summit ridge
campsites: BC(30/10,5000m),ABC(05/11,5445m),C1(07/11,6180m),C2(09/11,6660m),xxx(10/11,6900m)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Excerpted from 
    http://eightsummits.com/bills-articles/burke-khang-final-summit-push/

  By William Burke:

  Note: the website has many photos of the climb.

  Gokyo to Base Camp

  We moved up from the village of Gokyo to Base Camp on October 30. Fourteen yaks and a large group of porters carried our gear to Base Camp. Base Camp was the start of our self-sufficiency on the mountain as we slept in tents and cooked our own food. Our Base Camp was established at an altitude of 16,404 feet and was situated on a large, flat plateau near Gokyo Lake #5. From the edge of our Base Camp plateau, we had a spectacular view of the intersection of the Ngozumba Glacier and the Guanara Glacier.

  The climbing team spent 5 days at Base Camp. Each day, we completed acclimatization hikes up the surrounding mountains to help our bodies adjust to the thin air and be prepared for the move to higher altitudes. The highlight of these acclimatization hikes was our hike to Cho-Oyu Base Camp. During our stay at Burke-Khang Base Camp, we also practiced our climbing skills, including ascending with our jumars and descending with our figure 8 rappelling devices.

  Unfortunately, our climbing team suffered attrition at Base Camp. On the morning of November 1, John Dahlem informed me that he had suffered a severe "blow out" of his back. A disc had become inflamed during the night, and he was in severe pain. This was a recurrence of his back problem that occurred in the most unfortunate of circumstances. We had no choice but to summon a helicopter to fly him back to Lukla. So, now our climbing team was reduced from 7 to 5 as Bud Allen had left the team at Gokyo because of a stubborn virus. We were keeping the choppers busy.

  Sid spent 1 night at Base Camp and then moved up with the Sherpa team to establish Advanced Base Camp and begin fixing lines and establishing Camp 1 on Burke-Khang.

  Base Camp to Advance Base Camp

  On November 5, we received word that the line fixing team had made good progress fixing lines on Burke-Khang, so we began our move up to Advance Base Camp.

  The 9-mile move to Advance Base Camp was horrendously difficult and drained all of us of every ounce of energy. After more than 9 hours of torture, we finally reached Advance Base Camp where we collapsed in our tents. Yet, even with all that time, distance and effort behind us, we were still 5 hours away from Burke-Khang, where the real climbing was scheduled to begin. Kathy Myers had an especially difficult time making it to Advance Base Camp as she had been battling a respiratory infection for several days.

  Advance Base Camp was situated at 17,864 feet on another high plateau far above the Guanara Glacier.

  We took a rest day at Advance Base Camp on November 6. But, the night of November 5 was not kind to Kathy, and, on the morning of November 6, she reported that her respiratory infection had become worse and she was having trouble breathing. We worried about the onset of pulmonary edema and immediately ordered a helicopter to fly her down to Lukla. 

  Advance Base Camp to Camp 1

  On November 7, we set off for Burke-Khang, with a goal to reach Camp 1 on the mountain. The move from Advance Base Camp to Burke-Khang required us to descend back down into the Guanara Glacier and then move up the glacier to the foot of the East Buttress of Burke-Khang. 

  As planned, our route up Burke-Khang began with an extremely difficult, challenging and vertical move up the East Buttress, a 2000-foot wall of snow and ice that appeared to have no terminal point.

  The move up the East Buttress route began with a scree field of loose rock and boulders, which often resulted in one step up, only to slide two steps back down the mountain. I longed for the beginning of the snow and ice where our crampons could gain purchase on the mountain. After enduring about 1 hour of this floundering and frustration in the scree field, I finally reached the snow and ice where the fixed lines began. I was stunned at the vertical pitch of the East Buttress, which was consistently at, or above, 75 degrees.

  The move to Camp 1 seemed interminable. This went on for so many hours I lost count. Finally, I crested a ridge at the top of the East Buttress, and the tents were now in sight.

  Camp 1

  Camp 1 consisted of 5 tents perched on a flat snowfield at the top of the East Buttress. The altitude of Camp 1 was 20,283 feet. 

  Because of a significant crevasse and avalanche risk, Garrett and Sid made a change in the route from the original plan that Garrett and I worked out based on our April helicopter reconnaissance. Instead of following a wide loop across the snowfield and up the bottleneck on the left side of the snowfield, the route we would follow would move directly up the ridgeline on the right side of the snowfield. This change in route increased our margin of safety but immeasurably increased the difficulty and technical nature of the climb.

  Garrett also suggested another change in plans. Instead of establishing a second camp on the mountain at the base of the summit ridge headwall, we would all move on the very next day from Camp 1 to the summit and then back to Camp 1. The reason for this change was his determination that the Sherpa team was too depleted to establish another full camp higher on the mountain. This was a concern to me because I had counted on that second camp to break up my summit day. I was not confident I could move from Camp 1 to the summit and back in one push. This was consistent with my strategy on the South and North sides of Mt. Everest where I spent a night at the high camps to maximize my energy and chances of success on summit day. Most teams do not follow that protocol on Mt. Everest because of the abject danger presented by the thin air at the high camps on the South and North sides of the mountain.

  What we worked out with the approval of the team was that the team would take a rest day at Camp 1, and Sid and I would move up the following day (November 9) to establish a Camp 2 on the mountain, consisting of one tent, while the rest of the team would take another rest day at Camp 1. The following day (November 10), the Camp 1 summit team (Garrett, Paul, Denise and Nick) would begin an early morning summit push from Camp 1 and I would begin a later morning summit push from Camp 2. The plan was for the Camp 1 summit team to catch up with me so we could all reach the summit together.

  Camp 1 to Camp 2

  Garrett and Sid's decision to change the route from Camp 1 to the summit was a wise and judicious response to the objective dangers presented by our original plan. But, the new route foreshadowed a major change in the physical, technical and emotional difficulty of the climb. Instead, of a gradual move up the snowfield and the bottleneck to the base of the summit ridge headwall, we would be moving directly up the spine of the mountain on the right side of the snowfield. This involved more 75-plus degree vertical snow and ice climbing as well as highly technical rock climbing as the spine was laced with many massive ice-covered rock walls.

  Sid and I began our move to Camp 2 at dawn on November 9, and to describe our day would only repeat what I have already said about the move the previous day to Camp 1. It was a long, tough day, and, after 8 hours of climbing, we finally reached Camp 2. The altitude at Camp 2 was 21,857 feet. The summit ridge was just about 700 feet above us, so things were now looking really good. We entered the tent and enjoyed a good night’s sleep.

  Summit Day

  Our plan for summit day was to leave Camp 2 at dawn on November 10 and summit in the early afternoon. Our expectation was that the Camp 1 summit team, which had departed from Camp 1 at 3 am in the morning, would catch up with us and the entire team would summit together.

  The route from Camp 2 to the summit moves approximately 700 feet up the summit ridge headwall (which we named "The Fejtek Face") to the summit ridge, where it turns sharp left to the summit at 22,750 feet. The fixed lines had been set from Camp 2 up the Fejtek Face to the summit ridge. However, significantly, the Sherpa team had not yet fixed the lines along the summit ridge to the summit. So, the Sherpa team set out ahead of us to complete this final task.

  Sid and I left at dawn and steadily made our way up the Fejtek Face. I was tired, but felt physically fit and mentally optimistic that we would easily reach the summit. But, when Sid and I were just about 300 feet from the summit ridge, we heard radio reports that the Sherpa team was encountering difficulties fixing the lines along the summit ridge to the summit. The Sherpa team was fixing the lines on the Tibetan side of the mountain, so they were out of our line of site. Sid scrambled up the headwall to the summit ridge and disappeared over the ridge into Tibet. I decided to stay put and conserve my energy for the final move when I received the signal that the lines were fixed. I sat on the lip of a giant crevasse that seemed to descend into a black hole of oblivion. It was peaceful, quiet and serene where I sat and waited, but, unknown to me, all hell was breaking loose on the Tibetan side of Burke-Khang.

  Meanwhile, I could see tiny figures milling around Camp 2 far below me. It was Garrett, Nick and Paul, who had arrived at Camp 2 from Camp 1. Denise had opted to stay at Camp 1 as she judged the danger of the move to the summit beyond her level of risk tolerance. Finally, I saw one figure clip into the line and start moving up toward me. It was Paul. When he reached earshot, I heard him yell “I want to talk to you.” I knew immediately what that meant, and I mustered all the arguments I could think of as to why it was premature to give up our move to the summit at this juncture, especially given how close we were to the summit. There was no way I was going down as long as there was hope the line fixing would be successful. We were less than 400 feet from the summit and I judged most of that footage would be an easy traverse across the summit ridge to the summit. Paul and I had our conversation, and, in the end, I said let’s wait and see how things develop on the other side of the mountain. I also had a radio conversation with Garrett, who was monitoring the line fixing activities from Camp 2. He concurred we should wait and see if the Sherpas could complete the line fixing to the summit.

  High Drama on the Summit Ridge

  Little did we know of the challenges facing Sid and the Sherpa team on the other side of the mountain in Tibet. Burke-Khang had established a virtually impenetrable fortress guarding the summit, and the fortress extended all the way up the summit ridge. Our highly experienced Sherpas said they had never seen anything like these defensive emplacements on a Himalaya peak.

  First, they encountered two cornices on the summit ridge-one facing south and one facing north. A cornice is formed by the force of the wind blowing snow and ice over the top of the mountain. This creates a build-up of snow and ice that generally overhangs the mountain. Cornices can be many feet deep or just inches deep. But, they are always very unstable and susceptible to collapse, especially as the snow and ice forming the cornice melt in the sun. Since the wind generally blows in only one direction over a mountain, the cornice usually forms in the direction of the wind flow.  It is unheard of to encounter two cornices facing in opposite directions on the same mountaintop. But, this is exactly what the Sherpas encountered on Burke-Khang.
  Second, the dual cornices on Burke-Khang were bisected by a giant black-hole crevasse. So, a fall off either cornice would land the climber either 10,000 feet down the mountain into Nepal or Tibet or into the jaws of the bottomless crevasse.

  Third, just beyond the double cornices, and within just feet from the summit, was yet another cornice that formed a concave, nearly 100% vertical, ice wall that could only be scaled by an experienced ice-climbing team with technical ice climbing equipment.

  Fourth, overlaying all of these risks, the snow on the summit ridge varied from deep snow, which was difficult to plow through, to light, sugary snow sitting on top of treacherously dangerous and unstable blue ice.

  These were the physical challenges on the summit ridge. The mental challenges were even more daunting. Sid told us both he and every member of the veteran Sherpa line fixing team were terrified while trying to negotiate these challenges and fix the lines on Burke-Khang. For each Sherpa, it was not a singular risk just to that Sherpa. If one Sherpa fell, or if either cornice collapsed, every Sherpa clipped into the line would fall to his death.

  One Sherpa made an effort to climb up on the first cornice and fix the lines. When he planted his ice axe in the cornice to gain balance and footing, his ice axe went clear through the cornice. When he pulled his ice axe out of the cornice, it left a hole in the cornice and, as he peered through the hole, he could see 10,000 feet down to the Tibetan plateau. Another Sherpa made the same effort and started a death slide off the cornice, which he was fortunately able to arrest.

  It was time for hard decisions to be made concerning our expedition. Garrett answered the call.

  As Paul and I sat patiently on the Nepal side of the mountain, we were oblivious to the life and death struggle occurring just over the summit ridge in Tibet. Then, suddenly, the radio crackled to life. It was Garrett summoning all Sherpa and climbing team members back to Camp 2. Our summit day was over. I spoke with Garrett and he explained the decision.
  My emotions ranged from disappointment to relief. Of course, I was disappointed our team did not reach the summit of Burke-Khang. But, that disappointment was far exceeded by sheer joy that no one was going to perish trying to climb my mountain. After hearing reports from Sid and the Sherpa team, I am 100% convinced our expedition would have suffered deaths on Burke-Khang had we not terminated the summit push. The lives of Nepalese and American families would be forever changed. Every single member of the Sherpa team and the climbing team would be grieving the losses, and our collective guilt would be palpable. Instead, the decision that was made permitted all of us to celebrate our outstanding success on Burke-Khang and savor our good memories from the expedition, untainted by guilt, shame and second-guessing poor choices made on the mountain.

  I have climbed Mt Everest 6 times and summitted twice. The best decisions I ever made on that mountain were the decisions I made the 4 times I turned around and went down within less than 1000 feet from the summit. The same good decisions were made on Burke-Khang, and I will always be proud of that fact.

  High Drama on the Summit Ridge

  Little did we know of the challenges facing Sid and the Sherpa team on the other side of the mountain in Tibet. Burke-Khang had established a virtually impenetrable fortress guarding the summit, and the fortress extended all the way up the summit ridge. Our highly experienced Sherpas said they had never seen anything like these defensive emplacements on a Himalaya peak.

  First, they encountered two cornices on the summit ridge-one facing south and one facing north. A cornice is formed by the force of the wind blowing snow and ice over the top of the mountain. This creates a build-up of snow and ice that generally overhangs the mountain. Cornices can be many feet deep or just inches deep. But, they are always very unstable and susceptible to collapse, especially as the snow and ice forming the cornice melt in the sun. Since the wind generally blows in only one direction over a mountain, the cornice usually forms in the direction of the wind flow. It is unheard of to encounter two cornices facing in opposite directions on the same mountaintop. But, this is exactly what the Sherpas encountered on Burke-Khang.

  Second, the dual cornices on Burke-Khang were bisected by a giant black-hole crevasse. So, a fall off either cornice would land the climber either 10,000 feet down the mountain into Nepal or Tibet or into the jaws of the bottomless crevasse.
  Third, just beyond the double cornices, and within just feet from the summit, was yet another cornice that formed a concave, nearly 100% vertical, ice wall that could only be scaled by an experienced ice-climbing team with technical ice climbing equipment.

  Fourth, overlaying all of these risks, the snow on the summit ridge varied from deep snow, which was difficult to plow through, to light, sugary snow sitting on top of treacherously dangerous and unstable blue ice.

  These were the physical challenges on the summit ridge. The mental challenges were even more daunting. Sid told us both he and every member of the veteran Sherpa line fixing team were terrified while trying to negotiate these challenges and fix the lines on Burke-Khang. For each Sherpa, it was not a singular risk just to that Sherpa. If one Sherpa fell, or if either cornice collapsed, every Sherpa clipped into the line would fall to his death.

  One Sherpa made an effort to climb up on the first cornice and fix the lines. When he planted his ice axe in the cornice to gain balance and footing, his ice axe went clear through the cornice. When he pulled his ice axe out of the cornice, it left a hole in the cornice and, as he peered through the hole, he could see 10,000 feet down to the Tibetan plateau. Another Sherpa made the same effort and started a death slide off the cornice, which he was fortunately able to arrest.

  It was time for hard decisions to be made concerning our expedition. Garrett answered the call.

  As Paul and I sat patiently on the Nepal side of the mountain, we were oblivious to the life and death struggle occurring just over the summit ridge in Tibet. Then, suddenly, the radio crackled to life. It was Garrett summoning all Sherpa and climbing team members back to Camp 2. Our summit day was over. I spoke with Garrett and he explained the decision.

  My emotions ranged from disappointment to relief. Of course, I was disappointed our team did not reach the summit of Burke-Khang. But, that disappointment was far exceeded by sheer joy that no one was going to perish trying to climb my mountain. After hearing reports from Sid and the Sherpa team, I am 100% convinced our expedition would have suffered deaths on Burke-Khang had we not terminated the summit push. The lives of Nepalese and American families would be forever changed. Every single member of the Sherpa team and the climbing team would be grieving the losses, and our collective guilt would be palpable. Instead, the decision that was made permitted all of us to celebrate our outstanding success on Burke-Khang and savor our good memories from the expedition, untainted by guilt, shame and second-guessing poor choices made on the mountain.

  I have climbed Mt Everest 6 times and summitted twice. The best decisions I ever made on that mountain were the decisions I made the 4 times I turned around and went down within less than 1000 feet from the summit. The same good decisions were made on Burke-Khang, and I will always be proud of that fact.


expid: CHOY16101
peakid: CHOY
year: 2016
route1: NW side
nation: USA
leaders: Dani Fuller
sponsor: SummitClimb Cho Oyu Expedition 2016
countries: Australia, Austria, Canada, Denmark, Germany, Sweden, UK
approach: Ktm->Lhasa by air->Xigatse->Tingri
bcdate: 2016-04-28
smtdate: 2016-05-09
smttime: 1400
termdate: 2016-05-20
campsites: BC(28/04,45709m),ABC(02/05,5300m),C1(05/05,6010m),C2(07/05,7000m),Smt(09,15/05)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  Roeske and Lakpa Gelu left C2 at 1 am on 9 May. Very good conditions, straightforward climb. They spent about 15 minutes and descended to C2.

  15 May summit team left C2 at about 1 am. Straightforward climb. Spent 15 minutes on the summit and descended to C2.

  Fuller reached C2 on 7 May. He is allergic to mushrooms and had eaten mushrooms at ABC. He felt very ill and injected himself with adrenaline. He felt better the following day and accompanied Roeske on his summit push. When he was way up to C2 he started getting a tingling in his face again. He collapsed. He injected himself with Dex again and descended to C1, where he forced himself to stay awake. On the next day he descended to ABC and a Sherpa came up to bring him oxygen. Apparently it was a toxic shock from the mushrooms.

  Mildenberger, Merritt, Wilcox, Quillen, reached C2 on 15 May. They waited for another summit window, but it was too windy and they gave up.

  Nigh reached reached just above C1 on 16 May. He got frostbite on his fingertips as he had lost his glove and would not turn around.

  Nguyen also reached just above C1 on 16 May. He had to turn around as he was not strong enough.

  Oxygen:
    From C2 to summit to C2 by Czymochy, Davis, Johansson, Rigotti.
    Westreicher and Roeske did not use oxygen.
    From C1 to C2 by Merritt.
    Sherpas from C2 to summit to C2.


expid: CHOY16102
peakid: CHOY
year: 2016
route1: NW side
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Julian Beermann
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Cho Oyu Expedition 2016
countries: Australia, Austria, Germany
termnote: Did not go to BC due to fatal accident on Xixabangma
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  Team did not go to Cho Oyu BC due to fatal accident on Xixabangma (Jon Johnston's fatal fall into crevasse).


expid: CHOY16103
peakid: CHOY
year: 2016
route1: NW side
nation: Germany
leaders: Thomas Laemmle
sponsor: Extrek Cho Oyu Expedition 2016
countries: Italy
approach: Ktm->Lhasa by air->Xigatse->Tingri
bcdate: 2016-04-18
smtdate: 2016-05-07
smttime: 1510
termdate: 2016-05-15
othersmts: Summited Everest on 23 May (EVER-161-63)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
campsites:
  BC(18/04,4900m),ABC(21/04,5400m),C1(25/04,6400m),C1.5(05/05,6800m),C2(06/05,7200m),C3(12/05,7500m),Smt(07/05)

routememo:
  BC   18/04  4900m
  ABC  21/04  5400m
  C1   25/04  6400m
  C1.5 05/05  6800m			
  C2   06/05  7200m	
  C3   12/05  7500m (Laemmle & Weinand on 2nd smt push, Gruber didn't stay at C3).
  Smt  07/05  by Gruber at 3:10 pm (CST).

  Gruber, Laemmle and Weinand left C2 at 4 am on 7 May. Weather was very windy.  Laemmle and Weinand turned back at the yellow band at 7500m at about 8:30 am. The reason for their retreat was that the route was not fixed and they were going without oxygen and Weinand was very tired. They descended to C1 the same day. Gruber carried on and summited together with Chhiring Dorje (mentioned in Robin Trygg's On Return). They spent about 30 minutes on the summit and descended to C2.

  On 13 May Laemmle and Weinand reached 7850m during a second summit attempt. They left C3 at 3 am. They were alone on the route and there was a lot of snow. Laemmle had to dig out the fixed rope for most of the way. They reached the upper end of the couloir (7700m) at 7 am. They carried on for another hour, but digging out the rope was too hard and Weinand had cold fingers. High winds. They turned back at about 7850m. They descended to C1. 

  Members at end:  2 (Gruber had left for Everest right after his summit success; Laemmle went to Everest and Weinand went home).


expid: CHOY16104
peakid: CHOY
year: 2016
route1: NW side
nation: Slovakia
leaders: Barbora Orlikova
sponsor: Slovak-French Cho Oyu Expedition 2016
countries: France
approach: Ktm->Lhasa by air->Xigatse->Tingri
bcdate: 2016-04-22
smtdate: 2016-05-16
termdate: 2016-05-19
termnote: Abandoned at 8000m due to coldness in feet
campsites: BC(22/04,5700m),C1(25/04,6400m),C2(14/05,7200m),C3(15/05,7600m),xxx(16/05,8000m)
accidents: Boyer suffered the beginning of pulmonary edema at C3.
agency: Utmost Adventure
routememo:
  Boyer reached 7600m on 15 May. He felt the beginning of pulmonary edema and took some nifedipine. When Orlikova left C3 on 16 May for her summit push, he went down to C2.

  Orlikova had cold feet when she reached 8000m at about noon and decided to turn back. She returned to C2 the same day.


expid: CHOY16105
peakid: CHOY
year: 2016
route1: NW side
nation: Sweden
leaders: Fredrik Strang
sponsor: Swedish Cho Oyu Expedition 2016
approach: From Xixabangma
bcdate: 2016-05-11
smtdate: 2016-05-14
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2016-05-16
othersmts: Attempted Xixabangma
campsites: BC(11/05,5700m),C1(12/05/6400m),C2(13/05,7100m),Smt(14/05)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  Began summit push on 14 May at 1:30 am. Summited at 12:30 pm, spent 15 minutes on summit, then descended to C2.

  Perfect weather conditions except a nasty cold side wind from the south (I think it was south). Felt pretty awful all the way. Had had a irritating viral chest infection of 2 months and it never let go. Felt fatigue, cold, cheats pain etc. Took oxygen 100 vertical meters from the summit and back to same spot.


expid: CHOY16106
peakid: CHOY
year: 2016
route1: NW side
nation: Nepal
leaders: Pemba Norbu Sherpa
sponsor: Wild Yak Expeditions Cho Oyu 2016
countries: Switzerland
bcdate: 2016-04-30
smtdate: 2016-05-07
termdate: 2016-05-08
termnote: Abandoned at 7600m due to bad weather
othersmts: Summited Everest on 21 May (EVER-161-71)
campsites: BC(30/04,4900m),ABC(01/05,5700m),C1(05/05,6400m),C2(06/05,7300m),xxx(07/05,7600m)
agency: Wild Yak Expeditions
routememo:
  Team abandoned climb at 7600m due to strong wind, very cold, no oxygen.

  Fixed rope: about 800m from C1 to C2 and C2 to C3 was fixed by others.

  After Cho Oyu, the team went to Everest and summited on 21 May.


expid: CHOY16107
peakid: CHOY
year: 2016
route1: NW side
nation: India
leaders: Umesh Zirpe
sponsor: Giripremi Mt. Dhaulagiri & Mt. Cho Oyu Expedition 2016
approach: Ktm->Lhasa by air->Xigatse->Tingri
bcdate: 2016-04-24
smtdate: 2016-05-14
smttime: 1030
termdate: 2016-05-17
othersmts: Summited Dhaulagiri (DHA1-161-02)
campsites: BC(24/04,4900m),ABC(26/04,5400m),C1(11/05,6400m),C2(12/05,7200m),C3(13/05,7500m),Smt(14/05)
agency: Peak Promotion
routememo:
  BC  24/04  4900m
  ABC 26/04  5400m
  C1  11/05  6400m
  C2  12/05  7200m
  C3  13/05  7500m
  Smt 14/05  at 10:30 (Nepali time) More, Mandale, Dawa Chhiri Sherpa, 
             Kami Chhiri Lama, Lakpa Norbu Sherpa (1st summit)

  On 30 April the team reached deposit camp at 6000m. There was bad weather for a long time and they decided to attempt the summit without any rotation.

  Summit team left C3 at 9 pm on 13 May. Weather was fine and clear. Snow conditions good. At around 8 am wind started (about 15 kmh). Dawa Chhiri and Lakpa Norbu were fixing the rope on the way to the summit (around 800m). They spent about 20 minutes on the summit. They descended to C3, had a rest there and continued to C2, where they arrived at 6 pm. On 15 May everyone down at ABC.

  Zirpe reached deposit camp on 30 April at 6000m. He decided to stay at ABC to manage the expedition on Cho Oyu as well as Dhaulagiri I.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C2 to top to C3 by Mandale.
    From 7900m to top to C3 by More. 
    Sherpas from C3 to top to C3.


expid: CHOY16108
peakid: CHOY
year: 2016
route1: NW side
nation: Sweden
leaders: Robin Trygg
sponsor: Swedish Cho Oyu-Everest Expedition 2016
approach: Lhasa->Tingri->Cho Oyu BC->Everest BC
bcdate: 2016-04-18
smtdate: 2016-05-07
termdate: 2016-05-09
othersmts: Summited Everest (EVER-161-62)
campsites: BC(18/04m4900m),ABC(21/04,5400m),C1(25/04,6400m),C1.5(05/05,6800m),C2(06/05,7200m),Smt(07/05)
agency: Rolwaling Excursion
routememo:
  BC   18/04  4900m
  ABC  21/04  5400m
  C1   25/04  6400m
  C1.5 05/05  6800m	
  C2   06/05  7200m
  Smt  07/05	by Trygg, Chhiring Dorje at 3:10 pm.

  Summit team at 4 am on 7 May. Weather was very windy. Straightforward climb. Chhiring Dorje fixed the route to the summit. They spend about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at 6 pm. On 8 May to ABC.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from 7850m to top to C2 by Trygg
    From C2 to summit to C2 by Sherpa


expid: DANS16101
peakid: DANS
year: 2016
route1: S Face/Pillar
nation: UK
leaders: Ian Wall
sponsor: Danphe Shail-Dolpo Expedition 2016
countries: Australia
approach: Juphal->Shey->Bhijar
bcdate: 2016-05-26
smtdate: 2016-05-27
termdate: 2016-05-31
termnote: Abandoned at 5690m due to storms and appalling snow and ice conditions
campsites: BC(26/05,5347m),ABC(27/05,5519m),xxx(27/05,5690m)
agency: Off the Wall Trekking
routememo:
  Approx 1/3 of the lower face snow had melted since our recce images of Dec 2015 revealing angled limestone and loose rock. Top 2/3 seemed as shown in the previous image, but with steep blue ice on the south faces and deep unconsolidated new snow on the NW slopes of the upper ridge. Long 16-day approach trek in serious terrain, weather good during that period, but strong winds and snow from 26th May until we left BC. Snow/ice from the storm made the initial lower slopes difficult.

  Only Nepali staff reached the high point in a storm; others only to ABC.

  Focus was on the climb, so stayed at BC waiting out the weather for as long as possible. This caused a lack of time for the 13-day walk out! Dynasty helicopter came for us under a private (no insurance) agreement.


expid: DHA116103
peakid: DHA1
year: 2016
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Israel
leaders: Denis Gordin
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Dhaulagiri Expedition 2016
countries: Australia, India
bcdate: 2016-04-17
smtdate: 2016-05-19
termdate: 2016-05-22
termnote: Abandoned by all members due to high winds and snow
campsites: See route notes
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Seven Summit Treks Dhaulagiri expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Seven Summits provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Danny Gordin (Israel)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(26/04,4650m),C1(29/04,5700m),C2(30/04,6650m),C3(18/05,7250m),
         C4(19/05,7450m),xxx(20/05,7550m)
  Left:  22/05/2016
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned at 7550m due to strong wind and snow

  Gordin on 20 May tried to go for summit from higher C3 (defined it above as C4); he was climbing alone, but had to retreat due to weather.


  Paul Hudson (Australia)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: BC(17/04,4630m),C1(23/04,5710m),C2(30/04,6675m),xxx
  Left:  19/05/2016
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned at 6675m due to high winds

  Hudson retreated from C2 due to high wind forecasts.


  Rajib Bhattacharya (India)

  Name:  None 
  Camps: 
  Left:  
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Deceased due to acute mountain sickness and snowblindness

  Gordin reports that Rajib Bhattacharya (from parallel team of Seven Summit Treks) unfortunately died from mountain sickness (cerebral edema) during summit day on 19 May.

  Alberto Zerain Reports: Rajib and Tashi Sherpa were also on the way to the summit. Zerain and Galvan overtook them at about 3 am at 7650m. When Zerain came down from the summit he saw Rajib and Tashi also descending, but they were still at the same point at 12 noon. Zerain does not think that Rajib was on the summit. When Zerain reached C3 at about 2 pm he prepared some food. He did not notice that Rajib had been so unwell. Zerain believes that Rajib must have descended a bit farther, but died at about 6600m. He was snowblind and had frostbite. When Zerain reached C2, he heard that the Indian had died.


expid: DHA116105
peakid: DHA1
year: 2016
route1: NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Keith Kerr
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Dhaulagiri 2016
bcdate: 2016-04-27
smtdate: 2016-05-19
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2016-05-27
campsites: BC(27/04,4750m),C1(02/05,5750m),C2(03/05,6600m),C3(14/05,7200m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Kerr, Lhakpa Dorje and Pasang Tenji started on summit bid on 18 May at 9:30 pm, summited on 19 May at 11:30 am, stayed about 45 minutes on the summit, then returned to C3.

  Weather was calm and clear following a windstorm the previous night. Conditions were very favourable. Initial progress was quite rapid (following previous summit attempt on 14-15 May), but powder snow on the traverse across the major snowfield slowed them down considerably. Conditions after that were much better with firm snow to climb.

  Ngima Sherpa stayed at C3 during the summit bid as he was not feeling well.

  Oxygen:
    Kerr used oxygen from C2, the Sherpas from C3 (did not use oxgyen below C3 
    on the descent)


expid: DHA116106
peakid: DHA1
year: 2016
route1: NE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Adrian Mellor
sponsor: British Services Dhaulagiri 1 Medical Research Expedition 2016
approach: Marpha->Dhampus Pass->Hidden Valley->Tukuche->Dhaulagiri BC
bcdate: 2016-04-24
smtdate: 2016-05-14
termdate: 2016-05-22
termnote: Abandoned at 7550m due to bad weather
othersmts: Summited Tukuche W Smt (TUKU-161-01)
campsites: BC(24/04,4800m),C1(28/04,5800m),C2(30/04,6750m),C3(14/05,7550m),xxx
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
primid: DHA116106
routememo:
  BC  24/04  4800m
  C1  28/04  5800m (all 12 members)
  C2  30/04  6750m
  C3  14/05  7550m
  HPt 14/05  7550m by Bakker-Dyos, Mackie, Percival, Dawa Rita
  HPt 17/05  6750m by Tait, Webster.

  During the first summit attempt, Bakker-Dyos, Mackie, Percival reached C2 on 14 May. It was too windy for a summit attempt and after they waited for the weather to improve for two nights, they descended BC.

  During second summit attempt, Tait and Webster also encountered too much wind and descended to BC after one night at C2.

  On 20 May Percival and Bakker-Dyos went back to C3 to dismantle the camp and bring it down.

  All other members apart from Williams reached C2 at some point during the expedition. The reason for them not getting higher is that it was an expedition by the British Army and the goal was to summit as a team effort.

  Williams reached C1 on 28 April. He got scared as on 13 May a small avalanche came down and he and Mellor got almost hit. He remained at BC for the rest of the expedition.

  Fixed rope: 700m to C2


expid: DHA116104
peakid: DHA1
year: 2016
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Juanita Oiarzabal
sponsor: Spaniards on Dhaulagiri I 2016
approach: Via helicopter to BC
bcdate: 2016-04-18
smtdate: 2016-05-19
smttime: 0630
termdate: 2016-05-22
campsites: BC(18/04,4670m),C1(22/04,5900m),C2(23/04,6550m),C3(17/05,7250m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  18/04  4670m
  C1  22/04  5900m
  C2  23/04  6550m
  C3  17/05  7250m
  Smt 19/05  at 6:30 am by Zerain and Mariano Galvan (from different agency).
   
  Zerain and Galvan left C3 at 12:30 am.
   
  On summit push, Danny Gordin from Israel, Rajib Bhattacharya (the Indian, who died), and Paul Hudson were also on the way. They reached C2 on 16 May and even though they were intending to summit from C2 they went up to C3 on 17 May as they were very tired.
   
  The British team had left C3 five hours ahead of Zerain and Galvan, but they overtook them at about 3 am. The British team was fixing ropes. It was a very windy. Zerain and Galvan spent about one hour on the summit and descended to C2, where Zerain arrived at 6 pm. Galvan continued to BC where he arrived at 8:30 pm.
   
  Rajib and Tashi Sherpa were also on the way to the summit. Zerain and Galvan overtook them at about 3 am at 7650m. When Zerain came down from the summit he saw Rajib and Tashi also descending, but they were still at the same point at 12 noon. Zerain does not think that Rajib was on the summit. When Zerain reached C3 at about 2 pm he prepared some food. He did not notice that Rajib had been so unwell. Zerain believes that Rajib must have descended a bit farther, but died at about 6600m. He was snowblind and had frostbite. When Zerain reached C2, he heard that the Indian had died. On 20 May Zerain descended to BC.
   
  Oiarzabal reached C2 on 23 April. He felt very sick up there and descended to BC on 24 April. At BC he found out that he had a collapsed lung and his pulse was very fast. The doctor of the British expedition told him to abandon the expedition.


expid: DHA116102
peakid: DHA1
year: 2016
route1: NE Ridge
nation: India
leaders: Ashish Mane
sponsor: Giripremi Mt. Dhaulagiri & Mt. Cho Oyu Expedition 2016
approach: Via Darbang
bcdate: 2016-04-15
smtdate: 2016-05-19
smttime: 1115
termdate: 2016-05-22
othersmts: Summited Cho Oyu (CHOY-161-07)
campsites: BC(15/04,4670m),C1(26/04,5720m),C2(06/05,6600m),C3(14/05,7250m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Peak Promotion (Himalayan Guides pmt)
routememo:
  BC  15/04  4670m
  C1  26/04  5720m
  C2  06/05  6600m
  C3  14/05  7250m
  Smt 19/05  by Joshi, Dorchi and Tenzing at 11:15 am.

  First attempt: On 15 May the team (Patke, Joshi and Mane with Dorchi, Tenzing and Phu Dorje) climbed up to the traverse at 7900m. Due to bad weather they abandoned their summit attempt and returned to C3. On 16 May they descended to C2 and on 17 May Patke and Joshi climbed back up to C3 (Mane did not feel well and descended to BC).

  Second attempt: On 17 May Patke, Joshi, Dorchi and Tenzing Sherpa started their summit push at 6 pm, but it was too windy. They turned around at 7:30 pm and returned to C3.

  Third attempt: On 18 May Patke descended to BC and Joshi, Dorchi and Tenzing Sherpa started their summit push at 9:30 pm. Weather was good, winds about 30/kmh. Dorchi Sherpa had to dig out the rope, which was fixed during the first summit attempt. They spent about 25 minutes on the summit as the wind had picked up. They descended to C2, where they arrived at 8 pm. On 20 May everyone back at BC, where they arrived at 6 pm.

  Patke reached 7900m. He abandoned climb as there was not enough oxygen for two members to summit.

  Mane reached 7900m during the first summit attempt. He did not join the second summit attempt as he had a bad cough.

  Hadole reached 6600m on on 13 May during first summit attempt. He had a serious stomachache.

  Sherpas:
    Dorchi Sherpa, Walung, Makalu-9, Makalu-Barun, 01/12/1979
    Ming Temba Sherpa
    Phu Dorje Sherpa
    Tenzing Sherpa, 1st 8000er

  Oxygen:
    From C2 to top to C2 by Joshi; from C3 to top to C3 by Dorchi and Tenzing.
    From C2 to high point to C2 by all other members.


  Umesh Zirpe was the official leader of both the Cho Oyu and Dhaulagiri expeditions, but he went to Cho Oyu and was not on the Dhaulagiri permit.


expid: DHA116107
peakid: DHA1
year: 2016
route1: NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Jordan Halas, Christiaan Wilson
sponsor: Independents on Dhaulagiri
countries: Netherlands
approach: From Jomson via Dhampus Pass
agency: Snowy Horizon Treks (Himalayan Guides pmt)
routememo:
  Wilson disappeared after departing BC heading down towards Italian BC and Myagdi Khola, after a failed attempt on Dhaulagiri. Last contact with his family was on 15 May.

  Halas had departed BC several days earlier.


expid: DHA116108
peakid: DHA1
year: 2016
route1: NE Ridge
nation: Argentina
leaders: Mariano Galvan
sponsor: Argentinean on Dhaulagiri
smtdate: 2016-05-19
smttime: 0630
campsites: Smt(19/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides permit
routememo:
  Alberto Zerain Report:

  Smt 19/05  at 6:30 am by Zerain and Mariano Galvan (from different agency).
   
  Zerain and Galvan left C3 at 12:30 am.
   
  On summit push, Danny Gordin from Israel, Rajib Bhattacharya (the Indian, who died), and Paul Hudson were also on the way. They reached C2 on 16 May, but were very tired. On 17 May Zerain and Galvan reached C3 together (they decided to go together). Danny spent the night in the tent of Galvan.
   
  The British team had left C3 five hours ahead of Zerain and Galvan, but they overtook them at about 3 am. The British team was fixing ropes. It was a very windy. They spent about one hour on the summit and descended to C2, where Zerain arrived at 6 pm.
   
  Galvan descended to BC where he arrived at 8:30 pm.


expid: DHA116109
peakid: DHA1
year: 2016
route1: NE Ridge
nation: S Korea
leaders: Lee Chang-Baek
sponsor: Jeju Dhaulagiri Expedition 2016
approach: Beni->Jukepani->Bagar->Dobhan->Sallaghari->Italian BC->Japanese BC
bcdate: 2016-04-13
smtdate: 2016-05-19
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2016-05-21
campsites: BC(13/04,4640m),C1(19/04,5300m),C2(22/04,6300m),C3(14/05,7300m),Smt(19/04)
agency: NE-KO Treks
routememo:
  Summit team departed C3 on 18 May at 9 pm, summited on 19 May at 11 am, stayed 45 minutes, then returned to C3 at 4 pm. They were the first ones to summit on that day followed by 13 other climbers.

  Five members got altitude sickness at C1 (5300m) and they did not attempt to climb.

  Fixed Rope:
    1600m between C1 and C2.

  Oxygen:
    Kim used from C3 to summit and to C3; Sherpas did not use.

  One Indian climber went up to 7700m, retreated exhausted to 7600m then collapsed. He belonged to Seven Summit Treks.


expid: TUKU16101
peakid: TUKU
year: 2016
route1: N Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Adrian Mellor
sponsor: British Services Dhaulagiri 1 Medical Research Expedition 2016
countries: Ireland
approach: Marpha->Dhampus Pass->Hidden Valley
bcdate: 2016-04-11
smtdate: 2016-04-20
termdate: 2016-04-24
campsites: BC(11/04,5100m),C1(5800m),C2(18/04,6200m),W Smt(20/04,6848m),Junction Peak Smt(20/04,6700m)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  BC  11/04  5100m (Hidden Valley)
  C1         5800m
  C2  18/04  6200m
  Smt 20/04  Junction Peak (6700m) by Bakker-Dyos, Tait, Mackie, Percival, 
             Dawa Rita Sherpa at 10:30 am
      20/04  West Summit (6848m) by Mackie, Percival at 12 noon.

  Team spent two nights at C2 in high winds. On 20 April both summit teams left C4 at 6 am. They were roped up together (no rope fixed) and reached the Junction Peak together. It was very cold and Tait, Bakker-Dyos and Dawa Rita turned back due to the fact that they probably would have run into problems had all five of them continued. 

  They all descended to C2, where Junction Peak team arrived at 2 pm and West Summit team at about 5 pm. On 21 April all back to BC.

  The reason they did not tackle the East (Main) Summit was that it looked too difficult and the weather was very windy for most of the time of the expedition.

  Mellor, Robinson, Howard, Webster, England, Levens, Pasang (UIAMG guide) reached C2 on 18 April to set up camp.

  The rest of the team remained at BC. It was a team effort as it was an expedition by the British Army and the risk involved did not allow for more members to go higher.

  From BC 12 of the members carried on to Dhaulagiri I BC, the other 12 trekked out.


expid: MAKA16101
peakid: MAKA
year: 2016
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Spain
leaders: Ferran Latorre
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Makalu Expedition 2016
countries: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, China, India, Italy, Japan, Pakistan, Poland, USA
approach: Tumlingtar->Num->Sedua->Tashigaon->Kauma->Dobato
bcdate: 2016-04-20
smtdate: 2016-05-23
smttime: 1210
termdate: 2016-05-30
agency: Seven Summit Treks
campsites:
  BC(19/04,5100m),ABC(24/04,5700m),C1(25/04,6100m),C2(26/04,6600m),C3(10/05,7500m),C4(22/05,7650m),Smt(23/05)

routememo:
  Seven Summit Treks Makalu expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Seven Summits provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high-altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Ferran Latorre (Spain)

  Camps: BC(20/04,5100m),ABC(27/04,6400m),C2(05/05,6600m),C3(21/05,7500m),Smt(23/05)
  Left:  26/05/2016
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success (12:30 pm)

  Latorre started his summit push from C3 on 22 May at 8:30 pm. The rope was not fixed from the bottom of the French Couloir. He opened the route from the false summit to the real summit. Lot of snow on the route, the weather was good. Clear day.

  Spent 10 minutes on the summit with Wenzl, Vajpai and Petrov, then descended to C3 arriving at 7 pm (nearly 23 hours round trip).


  Martina Bauer (Austria)(Ldr)
  Reinhard Auzinger (Austria)
  Christoph Koenig (Austria)
  Johann Wenzl (Austria)

  Name:  Austrian Makalu Expedition 2016 
  Camps: BC(19/04,4800m),ABC(24/04,5700m),C2(30/04,6600m),C3(22/05,7500m),Smt(23/05)
  Left:  26/05/2016
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success (12:24 pm)

  On 22 May, Wenzl, Auzinger and Dawa with Latorre set out from C3 at 8 pm; Bauer left at 5:30 pm together with Phurba Sherpa. Weather was snowing, later clear and less wind, snow conditions are good.

  Latorre fixed some rope and opened the route on the last traverse from the false summit to the real summit. Team spent about 30 minutes on the summit and descended to C3, where they arrived at 7 pm.

  Auzinger reached C4 site at 7700m. He was not feeling well and turned back and descended to C3, where he spent the night.

  Bauer reached 8080m on 23 May. She started having breathing problems. Phurba gave her some oxygen and she descended to C3, where she arrived at 11 am. She stayed there to wait for the return of Wenzl and Latorre. She does not think it was altitude-related, but more of an asthmatic attack.

  Koenig reached 7000m on 12 May. He abandoned the climb as he never really intended to reach the summit. He left BC on 15 May.

  Oxygen: 
    Not taken, not used by Latorre and Wenzl.
    Taken and used (medically) from 8080m to C3 by Bauer.
    Used by Dawa from C4 to top to C4.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Sherpa (1st 8000er)
    Phurba Sherpa


  Francesca Raffaelli (Italy)
  Mario Andrighettoni (Italy)

  Term:  Did climb due to previous shoulder injury to Raffaelli 
         (did not depart from Ktmdu)


  Lech Flaczynski (Poland)
  Wojciech Bartlomiej Flaczynski (Poland)

  Name:  Polish Makalu Family Expedition 2016   
  Camps: BC(20/04,4850m),ABC(24/04,5650m),C1(27/04,6150m),C2(01/05,6550m),
         C3(10/05,7400m),C4(19/05,7600m),xxx(20/05,7900m)
  Left:  29/05/2016
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned at 7900m (foot of French Couloir) due to lateness in the day.

  Lech Flaczynski:
  We were the first ones to leave ABC after a few days of bad weather. On our way to C4 we did not find the way and we found a new way through the rocks. We did not find the fixed ropes on the steep part of the climb. We did not have downsuits and no foot or handwarmers. We were a bit scared to go to the summit in the middle of the night. On summit day the weather was very good and it was very hot above C4, which slowed us down significantly. When we were near the glacier, we found the fixed ropes. They were partially covered in ice. It was very exhausting to dig them out and we climbed long distances without using the fixed rope. The sun set after 6 pm and it got very cold, dark clouds gathered and the wind increased significantly. Lech was leading most of the time. He was using 1.5l of oxygen. Wojtek followed without using supplemental oxygen. When he caught up 	with Lech, they decided to turn back. We were worried to get frostbite. We returned to C4, where we spent the night without sleeping bags. The following day we descended to C3, the next day to C2 and on the third day to ABC. 

  When we reached ABC after our summit attempt we were told that the expedition was over and that we should go to Num. However, our equipment was still at C2 and C3. After having had some food, Wojtek went back up to the Makalu La and I wanted to go to C2 on the following day to dismantle the tents. We then wanted to go back to ABC together. Wojtek reached C2, where he spent the night and climbed towards the Makalu La the following day. The weather was very bad and they were some small avalanches coming down on the rocks. The wind reached about 100 km/h on the Makalu La. It was a horrible night without sleeping bag. The following day, Wojtek rappelled down, however, on the snow slopes below the upper rock band he had to stop due to pulmonary edema. Lech climbed up from C2 to meet him, brought him down to C2, where they had drugs for pulmonary edema. The following day they reached ABC and continued to Yangle Kharka, where they met the other members of the Seven Summit Treks expedition. Two days of rain in Yangla Kharka and on the third day a helicopter collected Wojtek and other climbers from Seven Summit Treks and brought them to Kathmandu. Wojtek spent two days in hospital even though he had already felt better at Yangle Kharkafelt better at Yangla Kharka. 


  Jean-Luc Fohal (France)

  Name:  Belgium Makalu Expedition 2016  
  Camps: BC(19/04,4800m),ABC(23/04,5650m),C1(25/04,6100m),C2(26/04,6600m),
         C3(21/05,7450m),C4(22/05,7650m),xxx(23/05,8350m)
  Left:  25/05/2016
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 8350m due to exhaustion from not using oxygen

  During the ascent, Fohal could not use oxygen because he could not stand to have a mask over his mouth. Completely tired and dehydrated, he decided to go down to save his own life. He saw that the true summit was close, but it was better for him to take this decision.

  The weather had a little bit of snow at the beginning, but afterwards dry and sunny. Arrival of the clouds came in the descent in midday.

  Fixed rope: Seven Summit Sherpas fixed the entire mountain.

  Oxygen:
    Fohal did not use oxygen.
    Others members did use it.
    Pasang [Gyalje?] from C4 to high point to C4.


  Boyan Petrov (Bulgaria)

  Name:  Bulgarian on Makalu 2016  
  Camps: ABC(07/05,5700m),C2(09/05,6600m),C3(10/05,7400m),Smt(23/05)
  Left:  25/05/2016
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Success (12:10 pm)

  Petrov was on the summit together with Ferran Latorre, Arjun Vajpai, Atanas Skatov and Hans Wenzl, who were also climbing with Seven Summit Treks.

  Petrov started his summit bid on 23 May at 3:30 am, arrived at the summit at 12:10 pm, stayed 20 minutes, then descended to C3 arriving at 4:30 pm.

  Petrov came to Makalu from Annapurna I.

  Oxygen not used.

  Petrov reports:

  I started from C3 at 2:30 am in the morning. At 4 am I was in C4, rested for 20 min and then reached the bottom of the French Coluior at about 8 am. There were 25-26 people in the couloir and I rested for 40 min eating and drinking. After I started to climb fast and passed over about 20 members and Sherpas.

  I continued towards the False Summit together with Ferran, Arjun, Hans and Atanas. In 12:10 we all reached the true summit. I made some pictures of Ferran, Arjun and Hans (which they later published on Facebook and their websites).

  I descended as fast as possible and reached C3 at 16:30 pm. On 24 May, I descended to BC and reached at 11:30 am.

  Report for the climb I published here: 

  http://www.dnevnik.bg/sport/2016/05/26/2766106_razkaz_ot_purvo_lice_kak_boian_petrov_izkachi_vruh/


  Arjun Vajpai (India)

  Name:  Indian Makalu Expedition 2016  
  Camps: BC(22/04,4800m),ABC(25/04,5700m),C2(30/04,6600m),C3(21/05,7500m),
         C4(22/05,7700m),Smt(23/05)
  Left:  26/05/2016
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success (12:24 pm)

  Summit team started from C4 at 9 pm. Pasang Norbu fixed the route from the bottom of the French Couloir to the summit ridge. Vajpai was climbing with Latorre and Wenzl. Vajpai spent 10 minutes on the summit, descended to C4, where he arrived at about 4 pm. On 24 May he descended to ABC.

  Fixed rope: 350m by Pasang Norbu

  Oxygen:
    From C2 to top to C2 by Vajpai
    From C4 to top to C4 by Pasang Norbu

  Sherpa;
    Pasang Norbu, Makalu Barun, about 22 years old


  Atanas Skatov (Bulgaria)
    Camps: ABC(18/05,5700m),C2(20/05,6600m),C3(21/05,7450m),C4(22/05,7650m),
           Smt(23/05)
    Term:  Success


  Jesus Morales Manzanares (Spain)

  Camps: ABC(24/04,5700m),C1(02/05,6500m),C2(02/05,7200m),xxx(03/05,7300m)
  Left:  07/05/2016
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 7300m due to altitude sickness (palpitations)

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Nuru


  Cleo Weidlich (USA)             (No summit)
  Muhammad Ali Sadpara (Pakistan) (No summit)

  During the first summit window, several strong climbers like Ali Sadpara, who is guiding Cleo Weidlich on the mountain, and Boyan Petrov were turned down 150m below the top on May 11 (due to bad weather).


  Hideki Nakayama (Japan)         (Summiter as listed by Ministry)
  Keisuke Kitamura (Japan)        (Summiter as listed by Ministry)

  Presume Phurtemba and Lhakpa Dendi were with the Japanese.


  David (Stuss) Leeds (USA)       (Summiter as listed by Ministry)

  Camps: BC(20/04),ABC(24/04,5700m),C1,C2,C3,Smt(23/05)
  Left:  30/05/2016
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success
  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa [Dendi?]


  He Ya-Ping (China)              (No summit)
  Fan Xiao-Yan (China)            (No summit)


expid: MAKA16102
peakid: MAKA
year: 2016
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Juergen Greher
sponsor: Amical Alpin Makalu Expedition 2016
countries: Austria, Netherlands, Switzerland
approach: Tumlingtar->Num->Sedua->Tashigaon->Kauma->Dobato
bcdate: 2016-04-19
smtdate: 2016-05-23
smttime: 1415
termdate: 2016-05-26
campsites: BC(19/04,4850m),ABC(21/04,5700m),C1(26/04,6350m),C2(01/05,6600m),xxx(02/05,7200m)
agency: Thamserku Trekking
routememo:
  Stihler and Neumayr reached 7200m on 2 May.

  Jansen reached 6600m on 1 May and 10 May. He abandoned the expedition due to bad weather and the death of two Sherpas.

  Soell, Greher and Felder reached 7000m on 2 May. On their summit push on 10 May they reached C2 and found Da Tenji and Lhakpa Wangel Sherpa dead in their tent. They stayed one night at C2 to organize the recovery of the bodies. On 11 May the team carried the bodies down to crampon point, where they were picked up by helicopter on 13 May.

  Brunner reached C2 on 10 May, the day the Sherpas died.

  Kirchmair and Bickert reached ABC. Bickert had problems with his knee and Kirchmair had pneumonia. They left BC by helicopter on 24 April.

  Boebel reached C2 during the acclimatization and on 13 May to collect her belongings.

  Greher and Soell were intending to climb without supplemental oxygen. The rest of the expedition was intending to use oxygen.

  Felix remained on Makalu after the main team left and summited on 23 May at 2:15 pm together with Karma Sherpa from C4, from where they started at 9 pm on 22 May. Good conditions, full moon. They stayed for about 20 minutes on the summit.

  Felix used oxygen from C4 (he did not intend to, but his Sherpa talked him into it), but was uncomfortable with the mask and kept on taking it off. He was fine up until the summit, but got really cold and exhausted on his way down, where he must have got severely frostbitten fingers.

accidents:
  Lhakpa Wangel Sherpa and Da Tenji Sherpa were found dead in their tent at C2 on 10 May; they died of carbon monoxide poisoning.


expid: MAKA16103
peakid: MAKA
year: 2016
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Germany
leaders: Steffen Hirzel
sponsor: German on Makalu 2016
approach: Tumlingtar->Num->Sedua->Tashigaon->Kauma->Dobato
bcdate: 2016-04-19
smtdate: 2016-05-10
termdate: 2016-05-15
termnote: Abandoned at 7450m due to beginning of pulmonary edema and fatigue
campsites: BC(19/04,4830m),ABC(21/04,5685m),C1(26/04,6270m),C2(27/04,6470m),C3(10/05,7450m),xxx
agency: Alpine Sherpa Guide Treks
routememo:
  On 11 May Hirzel set out to reach C4, but noticed that he had no energy left and decided to turn back. He descended to ABC the same day.

  Hirzel's Sherpa, Ang Dawa, summited with Parvaneh Karzemi on 12 May at 9:30 am.


expid: MAKA16104
peakid: MAKA
year: 2016
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Iran
leaders: Parvaneh Kazemi
sponsor: Butterfly on Makalu
approach: Tumlingtar->Num->Sedua->Tashigaon->Kauma->Dobato
bcdate: 2016-04-19
smtdate: 2016-05-12
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2016-05-15
accidents: None
achievment: 1st Iranian woman to summit Makalu
agency: Alpine Sherpa Guide Treks
campsites:
  BC(19/04,4850m),ABC(21/04,5700m),C1(26/04,6150m),C2(27/04,6600m),C3(10/05,7474m),C4(11/05,7610m),Smt(12/05)

routememo:
  Kazemi, Tshiring Jangbu and Ang Dawa (Sherpa from Steffen Hirzel) started their summit push from C4 and 8:15 pm on 11 May. Reached the summit at 9:30 am on 12 May, stayed 15 minutes, then returned to C4 around 2:30 pm.

  No fixed rope or trail from first of French Couloir. We had two ropes (18m & 30m);  we left 18m rope on rocky last part of summit and descended with 30m rope. Weather was perfect, freezing, but clear.

  Oxygen:
    Kazemi used from 7630m (after C4) to the top to the 7700m in descent.
    Ang Dawa used oxygen from 7900m to summit to 7900m.

  Ang Dawa was originally teamed with Steffen Hirzel, but joined up with Parvaneh Kazemi and Tshiring Jangbu after Hirzel turned back from his summit attempt the day before.


expid: MAKA16105
peakid: MAKA
year: 2016
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Andreas Neuschmid
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Makalu Expedition 2016
countries: Austria, Kyrgyz Republic
approach: Tumlingtar->Num->Sedua->Tashigaon->Kauma->Dobato
bcdate: 2016-04-19
smtdate: 2016-05-23
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2016-05-26
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
campsites:
  BC(19/04,4900m),ABC(22/04,5700m),C1(29/04,6400m),C2(04/05,6600m),C3(05/05,7500m),C4(22/05,7600m),Smt(23/05)

routememo:
  All members plus four Sherpas (Gyalzen, Nawang Sherpa, Nima Tshering, Dorje) started summit push on 22 May at 10:00 pm. They reached the summit on 23 May at 1 pm, then descended to C4, where they arrived between 5 pm and 7 pm. On 24 May all members and Sherpas down to ABC.

  Good conditions. French Couloir mixed. Weather calm and clear. Seven Summit Treks Sherpas were fixing up from French Couloir to the summit. The team had to wait a bit for the rope to be fixed. Gyalzen helped them once.

  Oxygen:
    Bernhard and Cherkasov did not use oxygen.
    All other members and Sherpas used oxygen from C4 to top to C4.

  Sherpas:
    Gyalzen Sherpa, Taksindu-6, 15/04/1986
    Ngima Chhiring Lama, Yamphudin-3, Taplejung, 15/09/1973
    Chhewang Rinzing, Taksindu-5, Solukhumbu, 02/08/1971
    [Mingmar] Dorje, [Solu]Khumbu, 40 yrs


expid: MAKA16106
peakid: MAKA
year: 2016
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Nives Meroi
sponsor: Nives & Romano Makalu Expedition 2016
approach: Tumlingtar->Arun Valley->Shipton La->BC
bcdate: 2016-04-10
smtdate: 2016-05-12
smttime: 1000
termdate: 2016-05-16
campsites: ABC(10/04,5650m),C1(18/04,6600m),C2(30/04,7500m),C3(11/05,7650m),Smt(12/05)
accidents: Meroi suffered superficial frostbite
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  Meroi and Benet left C3 on 11 May at 11 pm, reached summit on 12 May at 10 am, stayed 10 minutes, then returned to C3 in the afternoon. Weather was sunny, low wind, but cold.


expid: MAKA16107
peakid: MAKA
year: 2016
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Canada
leaders: Joie Seagram
sponsor: Canadian Makalu Expedition 2015
approach: Shipton La->Barun valley
bcdate: 2016-04-24
smtdate: 2016-05-07
termdate: 2016-05-28
termnote: Abandoned at 6900m due to bad weather
campsites: BC(24/04,4900m),ABC(27/04,5600m),C1(30/04,6300m),C2(05/05,6600m),xxx(07/05,6900m)
agency: Expedition Himalaya
routememo:
  Seagram and Pasang Gombu reached 6900m on 7 May on acclimatization climb. Weather was overcast and the route was crowded on the fixed ropes.

  Seagram did not go back up due to bad weather.

  Several groups waited at Hillary BC and Yangla Kharka for helicopters from May 26 to May 30; weather prevented flights out, so all walked out May 30th.

  Seagram plans to return to Makalu in spring 2017.

  Oxygen:
    Not used, but planned to use higher up.


expid: MAKA16109
peakid: MAKA
year: 2016
route1: Makalu La-NW Ridge
nation: Italy
leaders: Marco Confortola
sponsor: Marco Confortola e Marco Camandona al Makalu 2016
approach: Tumlingtar->Arun Valley->Shipton La->BC
bcdate: 2016-04-15
smtdate: 2016-05-23
smttime: 1100
termdate: 2016-05-27
campsites: BC(15/04),C1(21/05,6500m),C2(22/05,7500m),Smt(23/05)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  BC  15/04
  C1  21/05  6500m (normal C2)
  C2  22/05  7500m stayed a few hours for drink
  Smt 23/05  Confortola and Camandona at 11 am.

  Without oxygen and Sherpas.

  They left Makalu La on 22 May at 10 pm. The weather was windy and snowy. Straightforward climb. They descended to Makalu La to sleep. Following day to BC.

  Sophie Lavaud, who was on Andreas Neuschmied's expedition, says that Confortola was in trouble on the descent and she and her Sherpa helped him down. When asked,  Confortola said that there was no problem on the descent.


expid: MANA16101
peakid: MANA
year: 2016
route1: NE Face
route2: N Ridge (to 5500m)
nation: Slovakia
leaders: Peter Hamor
sponsor: Slovakian and Romanian Manaslu Expedition 2016
countries: Romania
approach: Via Samagaon
bcdate: 2016-04-14
smtdate: 2016-05-10
smttime: 1300
termdate: 2016-05-20
campsites: BC(14/04,4700m),C1(17/04,5600m),C2(21/04,6200m),C3(09/05,7000m),Smt(10/05)
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  BC  14/04  4700m (NE Face BC)
  C1  17/04  5600m
  C2  21/04  6200m
  C3  09/05  7000m
  Smt 10/05  by Hamor and Colibasanu at 1 pm.

  Team left C3 at midnight. Deep snow, no tracks. They spent 30 minutes on the summit and descended to C3, where they arrived at 5 pm. 

  Gabriz reached 7500m on 10 May. He had cramps in his fingers and turned back at about 5 am. He descended to C3, where he waited for Hamor and Colibasanu. On 11 May all BC.

  As the team was intending to climb the North Ridge (Czech route), they descended to Samagaon to continue from there. Gabriz left expedition to go back to Kathmandu as he had slight frostbite on his nose. On 16 May Hamor and Colibasanu left Samagaon for Samdo, from where they wanted to attempt the North Ridge.

  Low camp   17/05  4500m (in middle of Syancho glacier)
  Base camp  18/05  4700m (at the base of the wall)
  High Pt    19/05  5500m (between two seracs under a ledge)

  On 17 May they left Samdo at 6 am. They walked toward Dharamasala and then turned left onto the Syancho glacier. They stopped at about 1 pm to set up their camp. On 18 May they moved up the glacier for another six hours and set up their BC at 4700m.

  On 19 May they left BC at 5 am. They scrambled over big boulders to a ridge and climbed around the first serac (5000m), which was quite dangerous due to rock and icefall. In order to reach the second serac they had to come down again on the other side of the first serac. Once they reached the second serac they could see the route and once they had analyzed the avalanche danger, they decided to abandon the expedition. At about noon the climbed back down and reached Samdo the same day at 7 pm.


expid: MANA16102
peakid: MANA
year: 2016
route1: NE Face
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Christiaan Boumeester
sponsor: Mountain Leader Manaslu Expedition 2016
countries: Austria, UK
approach: Arughat->Buri Gandaki->Samagaon
bcdate: 2016-04-15
smtdate: 2016-05-09
smttime: 0830
termdate: 2016-05-12
termnote: Abandoned at fore-summit due to dangerous conditions
agency: Summit Nepal Trekking
campsites:
  BC(15/04,4700m),C1(20/04,5600m),C2(27/04,6200m),C3(01/05,6700m),C4(08/05,7400m),ForeSmt(09/05,8125m)

routememo:
  BC  15/04  4700m
  C1  20/04  5600m
  C2  27/04  6200m
  C3  01/05  6700m
  C4  08/05  7400m
  Smt 09/05  by Goudzwaard, van Aalen, van der Meet, van Nistelrooij, van de Ven,
             Vernooij, Veraart, Nima Tenzi, Mingma Chhiri, Ang Dawa at 8:30 am.

  Summit team left C4 at 2 am. Hard snow, good weather, no wind. [Stopped] below the summit on the ridge. They reached the mushroom rock below the cornice (picture attached) as the upper cornice was too dangerous. They spent about 30 minutes on the summit and descended to C3 (Goudzwaard, van Aalen, Nistelrooij at 3 pm and C2 (van der Meet, van de Ven, Vernooij, Veraart at 4.30 pm). Sherpas descended to BC. Two-thirds down from the summit they encountered soft snow and a snow bridge collapsed and Veraart fell in. But as they were all roped up he was safe.

  Rest of the team reached various altitudes. The specific goal for the expedition was not to reach the summit as it was more of a training exercise by the Dutch Army. It was:

  - for the benefit of the general goals execute a combined/joint expedition that,
    based on our Corps Values "connectedness, strength and dedication", generates a
    team effort to enable at least one climbing team of two men to climb the summit
    of Manaslu.
  - to ensure the safest possible execution through timely risk analysis.

  Name     Camp    Altitude   Reason:
  Adams     C3       C2         trail breaking, load carry, build camp
  Rensink   C3       7200m      fix ropes
  Keenan    C3       C3         trail breaking, load carry, build camp
  Schumer   C3       7200m      fix ropes
  Beckers   C2       C2         trail breaking, fix ropes, load carry, set camp
  Snaauw    C2       C2         trail breaking, fix ropes, load carry, set camp
  Henkes    C1       C1         trail breaking, fix ropes, load carry, set camp
  Rijff     C1       C1         trail breaking, fix ropes, load carry, set camp
  Wolsink   C1       6000m      trail breaking, fix ropes, load carry, set camp
  Broek vd  C1       6000m      trail breaking, fix ropes, load carry, set camp
  Otten     C1       6000m      trail breaking, fix ropes, load carry, build camp
  Hooren v  C2       6500m      trail breaking, fix ropes, load carry, build camp
  Meegen v  C2       6500m      trail breaking, fix ropes, load carry, build camp

  Boumeester stayed at BC for the expedition as he did not intend to climb.

  Oxygen: from C4 to summit to C4 by members and Sherpas.

  Summit Sherpas:
    Nima Tenzi/Tenzing, Beding, Dolakha, 24/08/1980	
    Mingma Chhiri, Beding, Dolakha, 19/01/1972
    Ang Dawa (Everest 2013)


expid: MUKT16101
peakid: MUKT
year: 2016
route1: N Ridge from E
nation: UK
leaders: Ian Richardson
sponsor: RAFMA Junior Team Mukut Expedition 2016
approach: Jomsom->Hidden Valley
bcdate: 2016-04-23
smtdate: 2016-04-28
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2016-05-01
campsites: BC(23/04,5100m),C1(27/04,5400m),Smt(28/04)
agency: Himalaya Expeditions
routememo:
  Richardson and Spooner started from C1 on 28 April at 3:40 am, reached the summit at 11:30 am, stayed about 20 minutes, then descended back to C1 where they arrived at 2:30 pm.

  Richardson, Spooner and Jenkins were at high camp, however, Jenkins decided not to go for the summit due to mild AMS.

  Weather good, dry conditions. Fairly benign glacier. Team was roped up. Not many crevasses visible. They headed towards northwest and then gained the North Ridge.
  Just below the summit pyramid (100m) they came across a big bergschrund. There were fixed ropes left from Ade Summers expedition in autumn 2015. After the bergschrund it was very icy and the summit ridge was covered in hard blue ice. About 40 degrees. They climbed alpine style using ice screws.

  Lynch, Singleton and Isbister went to Dhampus Peak and reached 5100m in Hidden Valley. All three of them had trouble acclimatizing and decided to stay down in Hidden Valley.

  Fixed rope:
    About 200m on the snow and ice ramp just above the glacier at 5700m.


expid: NPHU16101
peakid: NPHU
year: 2016
route1: SW Ridge of Chulu Far East-NNW Ridge of Narphu
nation: Singapore
leaders: David Lim
sponsor: Caffe Bene Himalayan Traverse Expedition 2016
approach: Pisang->Ngawal->Yak Kharka->Chulu Far East BC
bcdate: 2016-05-19
termdate: 2016-05-23
termnote: Abandoned during traverse to Narphu due to fresh snow and questionable rock
othersmts: Summited Chulu Far East and two peaks between Chulu Far East and Narphu
campsites: BC(19/05,4880m),ABC(21/05,5331m),Smt.ChuluFarEast(22/05,6429m)
agency: Grand Himalaya Treks
routememo:
  Original plan was to climb Chulu Far East's SW Ridge, then traverse 4 km east to Narphu peak.

  Team departed ABC on 22 May at 4 am, reached the summit of Chulu Far East on 22 May at 2:15 pm and stayed 10 minutes, then returned to ABC. 15-30 cm of fresh snow lying on hard grey ice made the climbing a bit harder than usual, not to mention the heavier packs we were carrying for the traverse. Man-sized crevasses on what looked like a simple route also added some interest. Weather was generally fine, with the afternoon clouding up fast.

  Fixed rope:
    About 100 metres on the second bulge on the SW Ridge of Chulu Far East

  Hired:
    Furba Sherpa, Kerung, 32 years, Makalu
    Man Bahadur Tamang, Salleri, 53 yrs, 5 Everest smts

  From David Lim:

  The Caffe Bene Himalayan Traverse Expedition 2016 aimed to make a 4 km traverse on the peaks of the Kang La Himal in Spring 2016. The planned route would climb the regular SW Ridge of Chulu Far East to the summit, and then traverse eastwards, descending the rock steps of the Chulu Far East’s East Ridge, climbing two virgin peaks marked as 5812m and 5872m, before exiting the Narphu Peak's (first climbed in October 2014) south glacier, and then eventually to Kang La. These two largely snowy peaks have ridges to about 45-50 degrees and climbing difficulty estimated at PD+ or AD- depending on route taken to the top. The three main difficulties would be the descent off Chulu Far East's summit ridge; the connecting ridge between Peak 5872m and Narphu Peak, an the snow gully exit off the Narphu glacier between the rocky south ridge and the icefall. It was anticipated to take 2-3 days to complete the traverse. However, fresh snow the day and evening before that made the Chulu Far East climb somewhat more difficult (and with larger backpacks), and the fresh snow on questionable rock, made the team abandon the traverse attempt. The 4 km ridge and climbs on it remain an interesting project for the future.


expid: NUPT16101
peakid: NUPT
year: 2016
route1: S Face
nation: Italy
leaders: Daniele Bernasconi
sponsor: Italian Nuptse Alpine Style Expedition 2016
approach: Lukla->Namche->Gokyo->Cho La->Kongma La
bcdate: 2016-04-29
termdate: 2016-05-26
termnote: Did not attempt Nuptse due to bad weather
campsites: BC(20/04,4760m),xxx
agency: Cho Oyu Trekking
routememo:
  On 29 April the team reached Chhukung base camp. They climbed Chhukung Ri, Chhukung Tse, Amphu Laptsa and some smaller peaks on the other side. They slept at about 6000m on the peaks to acclimatize. However, even though the conditions on the route were good, the weather did not allow them to climb as they would have needed a good weather period of at least two weeks.


expid: HIML16101
peakid: HIML
year: 2016
route1: SW Ridge from SW
nation: France
leaders: Paulo Grobel
sponsor: Paulo Himlung Expedition 2016
countries: Switzerland
approach: Besisahar->Koto->Phu
bcdate: 2016-05-03
smtdate: 2016-05-12
smttime: 1230
termdate: 2016-05-15
campsites: BC(03/05,4850m),ABC(04/05,4925),C1(07/05,5435m),C2(09/05,5950m),C3(10/05,6210m),Smt(12/05)
agency: Yeti Adventure
routememo:
  BC was at the new Himlung BC at 4850m.
  ABC was at the French BC at 4925m.

  Team started summit bid from C3 on 12 May at 2:30 am, reached summit at 12:30 pm, stayed 5-10 minutes, then returned to C3. Very good weather. No wind! Clouds from 12:30 on the summit.

  The Sherpas did not summit due to the lack of fixed rope.

  The route climbed has been named "Dedicated to the Braves."


expid: BARU15304
peakid: BARU
year: 2015
route1: SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Jean Bertrand
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Baruntse Expedition 2015
countries: Japan
approach: Via Jeep to Salleri, trek to Mera La and Baruntse BC
bcdate: 2015-10-26
smtdate: 2015-11-02
termdate: 2015-11-04
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to impassable crevasse
campsites: BC(26/10,5400m),C1(27/10,6100m),C2(31/10,6400m),xxx(02/11,7000m)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Excerpted from 
    http://tribenitrek.com/expedition-au-nepal/expedition-baruntse-2015.php

  20 Oct - begin trek into base camp from Salleri (after 12-hour jeep ride).
  23 Oct - crossed Mera La into Hinku Valley.
  26 Oct - at base camp (5400m).
  27 Oct - climb West Col to C1 at 6100m.
  31 Oct - members up to 6400m for acclimatization; Bertrand and Berry evacuated
           to Ktmdu due to AMS and angina issues. Summit planned for 2 Nov.
  02 Nov - Perret, Sigot and two Sherpas climb to 7000m and encounter an impassable
           crevasse.
  04 Nov - team leaves BC to cross Amphu Laptsa.


expid: BARU15305
peakid: BARU
year: 2015
route1: SE Ridge
nation: France
leaders: Andre Moine
sponsor: Baruntse Expedition Club Alpine Nancy
bcdate: 2015-10-28
smtdate: 2015-11-03
smttime: 0930
termdate: 2015-11-05
termnote: Abandoned at 7000m due to impassable crevasse
othersmts: Summited Mera Peak (Oct 25)
campsites: BC(28/10,5400m),C1(6100m),C2(6400m),xxx(03/11,7000m)
agency: Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking (Atalante Mtnrg)
routememo:
  From Andre Moine blog:

  Finally, on 3 November by twenty degrees and clear skies, we begin, around 3:30, the ascent of Baruntse from camp 2. Using our crampons and ice axes to our, we are moving on steep slopes our main goal. Step by step, naturally focused on our movements and our breathing necessarily, we are moving slowly but steadily. After four hours of effort (600 vertical meters), we are on the summit ridge. After the last jump, a sharp snow ridge and impassable farm access to the summit. Despite this small frustration, we share our excitement about this secondary top by familiar hugs and broad smiles: spontaneous awareness - then developed - to have reached this "seven thousand," major goal of our expedition.


expid: CHAM15302
peakid: CHAM
year: 2015
route1: N Face
nation: Japan
leaders: Kenshi Imai
sponsor: Chamlang Japan Expedition 2015
smtdate: 2015-11-03
termnote: Abandoned at 6500m due to fatal accident (disappearance)
campsites: BC,Biv(5600m),xxx(6500m)
agency: Alpine Asian Treks
routememo:
  From the internet:

  Patagonia Climbing Ambassador, Kenshi Imai, encountered an accident while climbing Chamlang (7319m). It occurred during his solo reconnaissance to scale the unclimbed north face. Search for him was abandoned on November 11.

  Imai was in alone try to Chamlang north wall (7319m) in Nepal Himalaya is in distress, has gone missing. He was last seen climbing near 6500m on November 3. By the subsequent three searches, a few pieces of Imai's gear were recovered around 5600m.


expid: HIML15305
peakid: HIML
year: 2015
route1: W Ridge?
nation: S Africa
leaders: Clinton Parker, Mathew Boucher
sponsor: S African Himlung Expedition 2015
termnote: Abandoned at 6850m
campsites: xxx(6850m)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks permit
routememo:
  From Facebook (13 Oct, 2015):

  Due to poor snow and weather conditions, both managed to climb to 6850m, a few meters shy of the summit at 7126m.


expid: HIML15306
peakid: HIML
year: 2015
route1: W Ridge?
nation: UK
leaders: John Morgan
sponsor: Adventure Alternative Nepal Himlung Expedition 2016
termnote: Abandoned at 6300m due to bad weather
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3(6200m),xxx
agency: Adventure Alternative Nepal (Snowy Horizon pmt)
routememo:
  From Adventure Alternative Nepal blog:

  The journey started on the 12 of October, a sunny and warm day in Kathmandu. The team composed of four guests, three cooks, four climbing Sherpas and 15 donkeys to carry food and some gear. Pasang Tendi Sherpa, head of Adventure Alternative Nepal, lead the team from Kathmandu to Himlung.

  The trip lead them through the beautiful landscape of Nepal, from Kathmandu to Besisahar, from Besisahar to Dharapani to Koto lodge, followed by Meta lodge and the base camp of Himlung. After the breathtaking journey, the adventurous climb began!

  With Himlung in front of the team, the mood was very silent. Everbody was getting ready for the big climb! Pasang explained the four Englishmen how to use crampons and the harness in order to avoid any risks while climbing.

  They made their way up steady. Basecamp 2, basecamp 3 and finally the day was there. The big day of the climb to the summit of Himlung! The team was ready to reach the top, mentally and physically. But there are other factors you have to deal with. Factor nobody, except for mother nature can influence!

  The weather on the day of the final climb was very windy and cold. Nobody wanted to take too much risk, so the team decided to make their way back to the basecamp. The next three days were very snowy and everybody was happy that they made the right decision to turn back. It's not only the summit which is important, much more the journey and the memories you take home with you.


expid: HIML15307
peakid: HIML
year: 2015
route1: W Ridge?
nation: France
leaders: Dominique Defontaines
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Himlung Expedition 2015
countries: Germany, Netherlands, Switzerland
smtdate: 2015-11-02
campsites: Smt(02/11)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  From Seven Summits website:

  Seven Summit Himlung Exp. members successfully summit Mt. Himlung Himal (7126m).
  Four climbing members and six Sherpas summit Mt. Himlung Himal on 2nd Nov 2015 at 12:00 AM GMT.

  Name list of the summiter are mentioned below:

  1.  Mr. Rene Frank Dittrich - Germany
  2.  Mr. Michael Hermann Mau - Germany
  3.  Mr. Mario Hetzel - Germany
  4.  Ms. Tina Puethe - Germany
  5.  Mr. Dowa Sherpa - Nepal
  6.  Mr. Kasang Dawa Sherpa - Nepal
  7.  Mr. Ngima Dorchi Sherpa - Nepal
  8.  Mr. Chhepal Sherpa - Nepal
  9.  Mr. Pasang Sherpa  - Nepal
  10. Mr. Pemba Dorchi Sherpa  - Nepal


expid: HIML15308
peakid: HIML
year: 2015
route1: W Ridge?
nation: Switzerland
leaders: Richard Bolt
sponsor: Kobler & Partner Private Himlung Expedition 2015
countries: Germany
approach: Besisahar by bus, Koto by jeep, Meta->Phu->BC
bcdate: 2015-09-20
smtdate: 2015-10-01
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2015-10-03
campsites: BC(20/09,4900m),C1(24/09,5400m),C2(30/09,6150m),Smt(01/10)
agency: Active Holiday Nepal Treks
routememo:
  Team started for summit on 1 Oct at 2:30 am, reached summit at 11:30, stayed 30 minutes, then descended to base camp. Perfect conditions, stable weather.

  Fixed rope:
    Fixed ropes between C1 and C2 and also on the route to summit, about 3000m ropes.


expid: LDAK15302
peakid: LDAK
year: 2015
route1: SE Ridge from E
nation: Japan
leaders: Yasuhiro Hanatani
sponsor: Japan Himalaya Camp Expedition 2015
ascent1: 2nd
bcdate: 2015-10-25
smtdate: 2015-11-08
smttime: 1220
othersmts: Summited Raungsiyar (RAUN-153-02)
campsites: BC(25/10,4800m),C1(28/10,5360m),C2(02/11,5700m),Smt(08/11)
agency: Cosmo Treks
routememo:
  Translated from Japanese from
    http://yukiyama.co.jp/mountain/2015/11/nepal-langdak-2nd-hanatani-yasuhiro.php

  3 people Hanatani Yasuhiro's led by Himalayan camp Corps, it was the second registered from the east to Nepal, Randakku Peak (Langdak/6220m) on November 8. Randakku is a mountain that has just been lifting of the ban last year, Sherpa team will have first ascent from Nishiryo on October 5. The route from the east will be Hatsuto.

  Construction of the base camp on October 25, during the trekking, ill Hanatani's captain bronchitis, one of the members in the altitude sickness in Namche, once return by helicopter to Kathmandu, he has been undergoing treatment at the hospital. Hanatani's will return to the base camp, a member that broke the captain is back to Kathmandu.

  28 Oct to C1 (5360m), 2 Nov to C2 (5700m) after setting, and the rest to climb once the base, the start of the attack on 7 Nov. 7 Nov climbed up to C2, night. And starting the C2 in the early morning of 8 Nov, to the summit ascent in the early afternoon, we go back to 18 o'clock around C2. Route seems difficult than expected.


expid: MANA15306
peakid: MANA
year: 2015
route1: NE Face
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Arnold Coster
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Manaslu Expedition 2015
countries: Australia, Bulgaria, Ecuador, France, India, Italy, Peru
approach: Various routes
bcdate: 2015-09-09
smtdate: 2015-09-30
smttime: 1130
termdate: 2015-10-03
campsites: BC(09/09,4700m),C1(5600m),C2(6400m),C3(6800m),C4(7400m),Smt(30/09,01/10)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Seven Summit Treks Manaslu expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Seven Summits provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Gilian Kit Wai Lee (Australia)

  Camps: BC(09/09,4700m),C1(10/09,5768m),C2(16/09,6200m),C3(17/09,6800m),
         C4(29/09,7400m),Smt(30/09)
  Left:  02/10/2015
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success (11:30 am)

  Team left C4 at 1 am. Weather was clear; snow conditions good. Already on way up Lee noticed that he was getting frostbite but still carried on. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit. On way down Lee started to have hallucinations, which could have been the onset of cerebral edema. He was very dehydrated. He reached C4 at 4 pm and spent the night there. On 1 Oct Lee was still a bit confused and when he left C4 he passed out for about 5 minutes about 35m out of camp. When he woke up again he felt better and he and Ang Dawa carried on to BC, where they arrived at 5 pm. On 2 Oct Lee took a helicopter to Kathmandu.

  Frostbite of 1st degree on right big toe and right thumb by Lee.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from 7600m to top to 7600m by Ang Dawa; Lee no 02

  Sherpa:
    Ang Dawa Sherpa, Kharikhola, 18/11/84


  Boyan Petrov (Bulgaria)

  Name:  1st Bulgarian on Manaslu
  Camps: BC(10/09,4700m),C1(13/09,5600m),C2(14/09,6400m),C3(28/09,6800m),
         C4(29/09,7400m),Smt(30/09)
  Left:  03/10/2015
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Success (11:30 am)

  Petrov left C4 at 5 am. Weather and conditions good. As he was among the last ones to summit that day, he could spend about 1 hour on the summit. Petrov descended all the way to BC, where he arrived at 8:30 pm.

  Oxygen:
    Not taken, not used by Petrov.


  Santiago Quintero (Ecuador)

  Camps: BC(09/09,4700m),C1(14/09,5600m),C2(18/09,6400m),C3(28/09,6800m),
         C4(29/09,7400m),Smt(30/09)
  Left:  02/10/2015
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success (10:30 am)

  Quintero and Mingma left C4 at 2:30 am. Good conditions. He stayed on the summit for about 10 minutes. He descended to C3, where he arrived at 4 pm. On 1 Oct to BC.

  Oxygen:
    Not taken, not used by Quintero.
    Used by Mingma from 8000m to top C4.

  Sherpa:
    Mingma Thindu, Makalu


  Philippe Marty (France)

  Camps: BC(10/09,4700m),C1(15/09,5600m),C2(17/09,6400m),C3(28/09,6800m),
         C4(29/09,7400m),Smt(30/09)
  Left:  03/10/2015
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success (10:00 am)

  Marty and Ang Dawa left C4 at 2 am. Weather and conditions good. They spent about 5 minutes on summit and descended to C1, where they stayed the night. On 1 Oct to BC.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C1 by Marty
    From C4 to top to C4 by Ang Dawa


  Giampaolo Corona (Italy)

  Camps: BC(10/09,4700m),C1(13/09,5600m),C2(14/09,6400m),C3(28/09,6800m),
         C4(29/09,7400m),Smt(30/09)
  Left:  03/10/2015
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Success (11:30 am)

  Corona left C4 at 5 am. Weather and conditions were good. As he was among the last ones to summit that day, he could spend about 1 hour on the summit. He descended to C4, where he spent the night. He was tired as he had carried his own gear (24kg).

  Oxygen: not taken, not used


  Arnold Coster (Netherlands)
  Debasish Biswas (India)

  Camps: BC(10/09,4700m),C1(15/09,5600m),C2(28/09,6400m),C3(29/09,6800m),
         C4(30/09,7400m),Smt(01/10)
  Left:  03/10/2015
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success (5:15 am)

  Coster and Pemba Thinduk left C4 at 1 am. They spent 5 minutes on summit. On the way down, they fixed some rope between C4 and top. They descended to BC, where they arrived at 3:30 pm.

  Oxygen: 
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C4 by Coster; from C4 to top to C4 by Pemba

  Sherpa:
    Pemba Thinkuk, Makalu-9, 18/04,82

  Coster summited along with Debasish Biswas, both using the same Sherpa.

  From www.dreamwanderlust.com:

  Debasish Biswas with Pemba Sherpa successfully summited Mt. Manaslu on 1st October, 2015 at 5:15 am (Nepal time). The expedition was conducted by "7Summit Treks" agency in September-October 2015.

  Brief expedition report: On 7th September Mr. Debasish Biswas left Kolkata for Kathmandu. He reached Arughat village on the next day. Due to the earth quake of Nepal the route were totally destroyed. Hence he reached Samagaon by helicopter from Arughat on 9th September and reached base camp on the succeeding day. After two days rest at BC on 13th September he reached Camp I and returned back and rest for 2/3 days. Next few days he and Pemba Sherpa reached Camp I and Camp II for several times for acclimatization. Then they returned back to BC and waited for the good weather report. Initially they got the information that on 25th and 26th September the weather above 7000m will be clear. But in the next report the days shifted to couple of days. They reached Camp I and stayed there for next three days and Camp II for next two days after having another changes in weather report. They got the information that the 30th September and 1st and 2nd October will be the best weather window for climbing. They reached 29th September on Camp III and 30th September on Camp IV. On 30th night at 12:30 (Nepal time) they went for summit.

  On 1st October at 5:15 (Nepal time) they reached the summit.

  "We reached Camp I on 24th September. As per previous weather report of 25th September and 26th September we would get window to summit. But, weather at Manaslu was very fluctuating. Again we had to wait for couple of days because of bad weather. Ultimately we got report of another clear weather window from 30th September to 2nd October. So, we approached again for Camp III and Camp IV and finally summited Mt. Manaslu (8163m) on 1st October, 2015 at 5:15 am (Nepal time)." - said Mr. Biswas.

  "It was tough. My right ankle have been twisted near Camp 2, we lost a fellow mountaineer of same summit team, another one was severly injured. He have been rescued" - he added.


  Victor Rimac (Peru)

  Camps: BC(10/09,4700m),C1(13/09,5600m),C2(14/09,6400m),C3(28/09,6800m),
         C4(29/09,7400m),Smt(30/09)
  Left:  03/10/2015
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Success (10:30 am)

  Rimac left C4 at 1:30 am. Weather was clear and calm. He spent about 5 minutes on the summit and descended to C3, where he arrived at 4 pm. On 1 Oct BC.

  Oxygen:
    Not taken, not used by Rimac.


  Additional Nepali Summiters:

  The following are listed by the Ministry of Tourism as summiting on 1 Oct:

    Karma Gyalje Sherpa, Maklalu-9, 04/09/83
    Nima Sherpa, Makalu-5, 29/03/87
    Lakpa Sherpa, Makalu-9, 27/11/86
    Lakpa Sherpa, Makalu-9, 26/11/91
    Ming Temba, Makalu-9, 28/04/1988
    Mingma Gelbu Sherpa, Lelep-3, 16/05/89
    Mingma Tenjen Sherpa, Makalu-4, 16/06/79
    Pasang Norbu Sherpa, Makalu-9, 28/05/90
    Pemba Chhoti Sherpa, Yaphu-9, 21/12/73
    Lakpa Nurbu Sherpa, Makalu-5, 14/02/83


expid: EVER16101
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: David Liano
sponsor: Asian Trekking Eco-Everest Expedition 2016
countries: Australia, Belgium, China, Denmark, India, Mexico, Poland, Tunisia, UK, USA
bcdate: 2016-04-10
smtdate: 2016-05-11
termdate: 2016-05-24
othersmts: Attempt Lhotse (LHOT-161-01)
campsites: BC(10/04,5300m),C1(6100m),C2(6490m),C3(7150m),C4(7950m),Smt(11-13,21/05)
agency: Asian Trekking
routememo:
  The Asian Trekking Eco-Everest expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Asian Trekking provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Alyssa Azar (Australia)

  Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(22/04,6000m),C2(29/04,6400m),C3(19/05,7100m),
         C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(21/05)
  Left:  24/05/2016
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success (3:45 am)

  Azar with Fur Galgen left C4 at 8 pm on 20 May, reached the summit on 21 May at 3:35 am, stayed 20 minutes, then descended to C2 at 3 pm. Good weather on the climb. Cold, but otherwise good conditions.

  Azar is the youngest Australian to summit Everest.

  Oyxgen:
    Azar began using at C3 (7100m) and stopped using on descent at C2 (6400m)

  Sherpa:
    Fur Galgen, Yilajung
    [Note: Azar says Dorjee, who was with Luitel on summit at 5:27 am]


  Brian Freeman (Australia)
  Ratnesh Pandey (India)

  Camps: Smt(21/05)
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success (6:14 am Freeman, 6:33 am Pandey)

  Sherpas:
    Shera Geljen, Khumjung (2nd ascent this season)
    Pasang Rita, Yilajung (2nd ascent this season)


  Harshad Rao (India)

  Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(22/04,6050m),C2(23/04,6500m),C3(14/05,7300m),
         C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(21/05)
  Left:  24/05/2016
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success (8:08 am)

  Rao with Pasang Temba left C4 at 8 pm on 20 May. Straightforward climb. They spent about 25 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 2 pm. On 22 May descended to C2 and 23 May to BC.

  Oyxgen:
    Used from C3 to top C3 by Rao and Pasang Temba.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Temba, Thami, 27/01/70


  Anish Luitel (Nepal)

  Name:  Anish Messenger of Peace to Mount Everest
  Camps: BC(14/04,5350m),C1(22/04,6050m),C2(23/04,6500m),C3(14/05,7300m),
         C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(21/05)
  Left:  24/05/2016
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success (5:27 am)

  Luitel with Ki Dorje left C4 at 8 pm on 20 May. Straightforward climb. They spent about 35 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 2 pm. On 22 May descended to C2 and 23 May to BC.

  Luitel took the Nepal Constitution to the summit of Mount Everest. It was the first constitution that has ever reached the summit of Mount Everest.

  Oyxgen:
    Used from C2 to top C2 by Luitel, from C3 to top to C3 by Ki Dorje.

  Sherpa:
    Ki Dorje Sherpa, Gudel-9


  Jelle Veyt (Belgium)

  Name:  Cycling to Himalaya Expedition
  Camps: BC(13/04,5350m),C1(22/04,6000m),C2(23/04,6500m),C3(11/05,7200m),
         C4(12/05,7950m),Smt(13/05)
  Left:  15/05/2016
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success (10:31 am)

  Veyt [with Lhakpa Nuru] left C4 at 11:30 pm on 12 May, summited on 13 May at 10:31 am, stayed 15 minutes, then returned to C2 at 8 pm. Weather was very windy. Little visibility. Straightforward climb.

  Veyt cycled from Belgium to Kathmandu via Elbrus (which he summited).

  Oyxgen:
    Veyt used from C3 to summit to C4.

  Sherpa:
    Lhakpa Nuru, Khumjung


  Tahar Manai (Tunisia)

  Name:  L'Ascension d'une Nation (The Rise of a Nation)
  Camps: BC(15/04,5300m),C1(23/04,6000m),C2(29/04,6400m),C3(11/05,7200m),
         C4(12/05,7990m),Smt(13/05)
  Left:  16/05/2016
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success (10:31 am)

  Manai with Mountain, Veyt and Dawa Tshering Bhote left C4 at 11:45 pm on 12 May, summited on 13 May at 10:31 am, stayed less than 10 minutes, then returned to C2 at 8 pm with a 1 hour stop in C4. Weather not really good, lot of wind and snowing. Manai could see approximately 20 climbers during summit push.

  Oyxgen:
    Manai used from 7300m to summit and down.
    Sherpa used from C3 to summit and down.

  Sherpa:
    Dawa Tshering Bhote, Makalu


  Julian Mountain (UK)

  Camps: BC(13/04,5400m),C1(22/04,6200m),C2(23/04,6600m),C3(11/05,7000m),
         C4(12/05,7950m),Smt(13/05)
  Left:  15/05/2016
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Success (9:49 am)

  Mountain left C4 at 12:30 am on 13 May, summited at 9:49 am, stayed 30 minutes, then returned to C2 at 9:30 pm. 50 mph winds across South Col, very cold. Initially foggy, but cleared later. The summit was very windy, but clear.

  Oyxgen:
    Mountain used from C3 to summit to C3.


  Melanie Southworth (UK)

  Name:  Mel's Barking Mad Everest Expedition 2016
  Camps: BC(13/04,5350m),C1(11/05,6000m),C2(12/05,6400m),C3(19/05,7300m),
         C4(20/05,7950m),Smt(21/05)
  Left:  24/05/2016
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success (3:36 am)

  Southworth, Tenzing Dorje and Pemba Tshering left C4 at 8:30 pm on 20 May, summited at 3:36 am on 21 May, stayed 30 minutes, then returned to C2 at 3:30 pm. Clear night, moderate wind, very cold. Moonlite night. Straightforward climb.

  Oyxgen:
    Southworth used from C3 to summit to C2.
    Sherpas used from C4 to summit to C4.

  Sherpas:
    Tenzing Dorje, Phortse, 19/1170
    Pemba Tshering, Khumjung-3 


  Ian Gibb (Ireland)

  Camps: BC(14/04,5365m),C1(03/05,6105m),C2(05/05,6500m),xxx
  Left:  16/05/2016
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 6500m due to stomach illness of wife.

  Abandoned after first rotation due to stomach illnesses of his wife, Hazel, on Lhotse permit.

  Oyxgen:  Not used


  Isaiah Janzen (USA)

  Camps: BC(17/04,5300m),C1(26/04,6065m),C2(03/05,6490m),C3(11/05,7130m),
         C4(12/05,7890m),Smt(21/05)
  Left:  24/05/2016
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success (4:36 am)

  Janzen and Tshering Tashi left C4 at 8 pm on 20 May, summited at 4:36 am, stayed about 7 minutes, then descended to C2 at 12:45 pm. Temperatures were cold, winds were in the 10-30 kph range when in direct wind. It was dark out.

  Oyxgen:
    Janzen used from 7160m to summit and down to 6800m.
    Tshering Tashi used from 7900m to summit and down to 7160m.

  Sherpa:
    Tshering Tashi (Khumjung)


  David Liano (Mexico)

  Camps: BC(19/04,5300m),C2(23/04,6490m),C3(10/05,7150m),C4(11/05,7950m),Smt(12/05)
  Left:  14/05/2016
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success (8:24 am)

  Liano and Pasang Rita left C4 at 12:15 am on 12 May, summited at 8:24 am, stayed 45 minutes, then descended to C2. May 12 was the first day foreigners summited this season.

  Oyxgen:
    Liano used from C3.
    Pasang Rita used from C4.

  Sherpa:
    Pasang Rita (Thami)


  Christof Deblauwe (Belgium)

  Camps: BC(10/04,5350m),C1(01/05,6100m),C2(10/05,6400m),xxx(11/05,6900m)
  Left:  24/05/2016
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Abandoned at 6900m due to a severe cold

  Deblauwe got to just below C3 at 6900m.

  Oyxgen:
    Planned to use if he got higher.


  Carsten Pedersen (Denmark)

  Andrzej Wojda (Poland)

  Xia Bo-Yu (China)


expid: EVER16102
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Sherpa Rope-Fixing
sponsor: Sherpa Rope-Fixing Everest South 2016
bcdate: 2016-04-10
smtdate: 2016-05-11
smttime: 1700
campsites: Smt(11/05)
routememo:
  Rope-fixing summiters:

  From Adventure Consultants:
    Nima Tshering Sherpa

  From Ascent Himalayas:
    Pasang Tenzing Sherpa

  From Asian Trekking:
    Shera Gyalzen Sherpa

  From Madison Mtnring:
    Lhakpa Chhiring Sherpa (26)

  From Himex:
    Gyalzen Dorjee Sherpa

  From IMG:
    Ang Pemba Sherpa

  From NCC (National Cadet Corps):
    Mingma Chhiri Sherpa (21)

  From Seven Summit Treks:
    Mingma Thindu Sherpa (31)

  From Arun Treks:
    Pasang Dorje Sherpa (23)

  Asian Trekking report (11 May 2016):

  A team of 9 Sherpa climbers selected from different expedition teams including International Mountain Guides, Himalayan Experience, Madison Mountaineering, Asian Trekking, Adventure Consultants, Alpine Ascents, Himex, NCC, Arun Treks and Seven Summit Treks have summited Mt. Everest at 5:05 pm on Wednesday, 11 May 2016.

  Shera Gyaljen Sherpa of Asian Trekking's Eco Everest expedition is one of the leading ropes fixing team to summit of Mt. Everest this year. The names of the summiteers are Gyalzen Dorjee Sherpa (Himex), Ang Pemba Sherpa (IMG), Nima Tshering Sherpa (AC), Pasang Tenzing Sherpa (Ascent Himalayas), Mingma Sherpa (Seven Summit Treks), Mingma Chhiri (NCC), Ang Gyalzen (Arun Treks) and Lhakpa Tshering Sherpa (HG).
    

  From The Himalayan Times (29 May 2016):

  KATHMANDU: The government on Sunday honoured nine Sherpa climbers who first stood atop the Mt Everest this season, amidst a function on the occasion of the ninth International Mt Everest Day.

  Prime Minister KP Sharma Oli honoured members of the summit rope- fixing team including Gyalzen Sherpa, Gyalzen Dorjee Sherpa, Ang Pemba Sherpa, Nima Tshering Sherpa, Pasang Tenzing Sherpa, Mingma Sherpa, Mingma Chhiri Sherpa, Pasang Dorjee Sherpa and Lhakpa Tshering Sherpa with the cash prize of Rs 50,000 for each.


  Note: Ministry gives Pasang Dorje Sherpa (23) of Arun Treks as summiter instead of Ang Gyalzen Sherpa.


  From IMG website:

  These men worked their way to within 200 meters of the Balcony yesterday. After a short night at the South Col, they worked for 13 hours and all 9 stood on the summit of Mount Everest at 5:02 pm. They are all descending now to Camp 2 for tonight.

  Congratulations to these 9 strong Sherpa and THANK YOU for opening the route to the Top of the World for all of the teams on the South Side!


expid: EVER16103
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Iran
leaders: Azim Gheichisaz
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Everest South Expedition 2016
countries: Canada, China, India, Japan, Malaysia, Peru, S Korea
bcdate: 2016-04-10
smtdate: 2016-05-15
smttime: 0920
termdate: 2016-05-29
campsites: BC,C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(15,19-21/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Seven Summit Treks Everest expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Seven Summits provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Yachiyo Suzuki (Japan)

  Name:  Suzuki on Everest & Lhotse 2016
  Camps: BC(18/04,5350m),C1(26/04,6000m),C2(27/04,6350m),C3(18/05,7300m),
         C4(19/05,7900m),Smt(20/05)
  Left:  25/05/2016
  Hired: 1
  Term:  Success (8:00 am)

  Suzuki left C4 with Sanu on 19 May at 7 pm, summited on 20 May at 8 am, stayed 30 minutes, then retured to C4 at noon. Many people. Good conditions. Straightforward climb.

  Oxygen:
    From 6600m to top to 6600m by Suzuki
    From C4 to top to C4 by Sanu Sherpa.

  Sherpa:
    Sanu Sherpa, Walung, 30/04/75

  Naba Kumar Pukon (India)
  Seema Goswami (India)
  Narender Singh (India)

  Camps: BC(18/04,5350m),C1(22/04,5943m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3(18/05,7162m),
         C4(19/05,7950m),Smt(20/05)
  Left:  22/05/2016
  Hired: 3
  Term:  Success (7:53 am)

  The three-member team consisting of Phukon, Goswami and Singh together with three Sherpas started from C4 at 8 pm on 19 May. They got to the summit at 7:53 am on 20 May and stayed on summit about 10-12 minutes. The team returned C4 between 2:30-3 pm. They continued to descend to C3. On the way down Goswami said that her Sherpa left her alone at 7900m without food, water and tent. Other climbers arrived at C3 at 5 pm. Next day 21 May stayed at C2 and on 22 May to BC. Whereas Goswami spent night in open using available oxygen. She was rescued from 7900m approximately after 24 hours to C2 on 21 night then evacuated to Kathmandu hospital on 22 May by heli. She was discharged form hospital on 27 May.

  Singh left C4 with Dawa on 19 May at 7 pm, summited on 20 May at 7:53 am, stayed 12 minutes, then retured to C3. Good weather. Singh suffered some frostbite during the climb.

  Oxygen:
    Members used from C3 to summit to C3.
    Sherpas used from C4 to summit to C4.

  Sherpas:
    [Nga] Dawa, 35, Everest X2 [Makalu-9, 02/05/72, 1977-4278] (with Singh)
    Lhakpa [Makalu-9, 20/10/86, 103015-207 ??] 
    Pemba Chhoti [Makalu-5, 23/05/93, 01-01-71-02949]

  Ed Note: The Ministry has removed the Goswami and Singh Nadav ascents from their lists as the summit photo by Yadav was determined to be faked.


  Luo Jing (China)

  Camps: BC(11/05,5350m),C2(12/05,6400m),C3(13/05,7300m),C4(14/05,7900m),Smt(15/05)
  Left:  22/05/2016
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Success (9:20 am)

  Luo Jing was accclimatized from summiting Annapurna I on 1 May. She came to Gorak Shep by helicopter.

  Luo left C4 with Norbu Sherpa on 14 May at 10 pm, summited on 15 May at 9:20 am, stayed 10 minutes, then descended to C4 at 4 pm.

  Oxygen:
    Luo used from C3 to summit to C3.
    Norbu used from 7600m to summit to 7600m.

  Sherpa:
    Norbu, Makalu [Chhiji Nurbu]


  Richard Hidalgo (Peru)

  Camps: BC(12/04,5350m),C2(22/04,6300m),C3(24/04,7300m),C4(21/05,7900m),
         xxx(22/05,8400m)
  Left:  25/05/2016
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned at 8400m due to high winds

  Hidalgo left C4 at midnight on 21 May. He left late as he had lost his water bottle on the way up and needed to rehydrate. He reached about 8400m (just below the Balcony) at around 4 am, but it was too windy and he decided to turn back. He went back to C4, rested a bit, took his tent and descended to C2, where he arrived at about 5 pm. BC on 23 May.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


  Azim Gheichisaz (Iran)

  Camps: BC(18/04,5350m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(07/05,7100m),C4(14/05,7900m),Smt(19/05)
  Left:  24/05/2016
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Success (11 am)

  Gheichisaz left C4 at 10 pm on 18 May. Many people on the way. Cold night and windy. He spent about half an hour on the summit (with Alireza Behpour from Prestige Adventure) and descended to C4 where he arrived at 5 pm. On 20 May he descended to C2 and on 21 May to BC.

  Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


  Rudra Halder (India)
  Satyarup Siddhanta (India)
  Malay Mukjerjee (India)
  Ramesh Roy (India)

  Camps: BC(22/04,5350m),C1(26/04,6100m),C2(27/04,6400m),C3(19/05,7200m),
         C4(20/05,7950m),Smt(21/05)
  Left:  29/05/2016
  Hired: 5
  Term:  Success (5:35 am)

  Halder, Siddhanta, Mukherjee, Roy, Pemba Chhuti Sherpa, Phurba Sherpa, Phurba Sherpa and Pemba Chhiring Sherpa left C4 at 6:30 pm on 20 May. Conditions good, weather good. Only a bit windy on the summit. Straightforward climb. Stayed about one hour on the summit. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 12 noon. On 22 May to C2 and 23 May to BC.

  Oxygen: 
    C3 to top (high point) to C3 by members.
    C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Pemba Chhuti, Yaphu-9, 15/07/73
    Phurba [Phurba Dorchi, 31?]
    Phurba [Purba Ongdi or Chhangba, 19?]
    Pemba Chhiring


  Richard Cartier (Canada)

  Name:  Mellow Yellow 2016 Everest Expedition
  Camps: BC(10/04,5350m),C2(20/04,6400m),C3(20/05,7000m),C4(22/05,7900m),
         xxx(22/05,8300m)
  Left:  25/05/2016
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned at 7900m due to coldness from not used oxygen

  Cartier turned back at 8300m due to weather being too windy (he was getting cold). Without bottled oxygen, his heat production was inferior to his heat loss.

  Oxygen: Not used


  Chong Meng Lee (Malaysia)

  Name:  Lions Mount Everest Expedition 2016
  Hired: 2 [Nga Tenji Sherpa, Ang Temba Sherpa]
  Term:  Abandoned at 7300m due to bad weather


  Kim Min-Kyu (S Korea)
  Heo Young-Ho (S Korea) - Summited 16 May

  Added following 5 Sherpa summiters from Ministry list:
    Nga Tenji, Makalu-9, 28/02/80
    Dawa Gyaljen, Makalu-5, 22/02/94
    Ming Temba, Makalu-9, 02/06/92
    Jangbu, Makalu-5, 26/08/85
    Chhangba, Makalu-5, 17/04/97


expid: EVER16104
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: Nepal
leaders: Ang Temba Sherpa
sponsor: Seven Summit Treks Everest North Expedition 2016
countries: Belgium, India, USA
approach: Lhasa->Tingri
bcdate: 2016-04-16
smtdate: 2016-05-21
smttime: 0712
termdate: 2016-05-26
agency: Seven Summit Treks
campsites:
  BC(17/04,5200m),ABC(25/04,6300m),C1(29/04,7000m),C2(19/05,7800m),
         C3(20/05,8300m),Smt(21/05)

routememo:
  Seven Summit Treks Everest expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Seven Summits provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


  Sofie Lenaerts (Belgium)
  Paul Hegge (Belgium)

  Name:  Belgian Everest Climb 2016
  Camps: BC(17/04,5200m),ABC(25/04,6300m),C1(29/04,7000m),C2(19/05,7800m),
         C3(20/05,8300m),Smt(21/05)
  Left:  25/05/2016
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success (7:20 am NST)

  Team left C3 on 20 May at 10 pm (NST), summited on 21 May at 7:20 am, stayed 40 minutes, then descended to C3 at 5 pm. Rope fixing was not very good. The rope and some of the anchors were too loose. Conditions on the mountain good. Weather calm and clear.

  On the summit push, Lenaerts broke a rib from coughing at C2. She only noticed that it was broken after she had reached the summit.

  Lenaerts is planning to return in spring 2017.

  Oxygen:
    C1 to smt to C1 by Belgians and Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Dawa Sherpa (with Lenaerts)
    Nima Sherpa (with Hegge)


  Aparna Kumar (India)

  Camps: BC(17/04,5182m),ABC(23/04,6492m),C1(29/04,7100m),C2(19/05,7500m),
         C3(20/05,8300m), Smt(21/05)
  Left:  25/05/2016
  Hired: 2
  Term:  Success (9:27 am CST)

  Team left C3 on 20 May at 10 pm (CST), summited on 21 May at 9:27 am, stayed 15 to 30 minutes, then descended to C3 at 7 pm. 

  Kumar: When we set out in the night it was cold and cloudy. The climb was exhausting and steep especially the rocky areas. I personally felt the steps and summit pyramid very strenuous and used up all my energy on them. I thought the end of the snow was the summit, but had to slog along the last part and it was a relief to finally see the snow and the holy flags flapping in the winds. Early morning and afternoon, the whole day the weather was very good with the sun in full glory. In the late afternoon it got cloudy but I did not feel cold and had no problems, but for the exhaustion. My descent was very slow and tiring.

  Oxygen:
    C1 to smt to C1 by Kumar and Sherpas

  Sherpas:
    Phurba Sherpa
    Nima Sherpa [same as with Kumar]


  Alex Barber (USA)

  Camps: BC(16/04,4900m),IC(22/04,5750m),ABC(22/04,6400m),C1(29/04,7000m),
         C2(09/05,7800m),C3(22/05,8300m),xxx
  Left:  26/05/2016
  Hired: 0
  Term:  Abandoned at 8300m due altitude sickness

  22 May was a very windy day and difficult to get to C3. Barber slept well at C3. When he got ready to go for the summit attempt at about midnight something did not feel right and he decided to abandon his summit push and went back to sleep. When he woke up he felt very bad and as soon as he tried to stand up he knew that something was wrong. He felt very weak. He started descending at 7 am and suddenly he could barely breathe and could not longer move properly. It took him a long time to move. He bumped into the Rolwaling Excursion team at about 8100m, who asked him whether he was Ok. Barber said he was. At 7900m he met the Chilean team (they had been alerted by the Alpenglow Expeditions doctor Monica Piris), who put a pulse-oximeter on him and it showed an oxygen saturation of 47. They gave him oxygen and Barber then continued down together with the Chileans. 

  They descended to C1, where they arrived at about 4 pm. The Chileans gave him a tent. During the night at C1 Barber ran out of oxygen. He was sitting up and kept on breathing and meditating. He was very scared. Alpenglow Expeditions guide Zeb Blais came up to the North Col on 24 May with oxygen and helped Barber down to ABC. When they reached ABC Barber found that his group of Seven Summit Treks had left and only his tent was still standing. Ballinger of Alpenglow took him into his camp and their doctor Monica Piris looked after him. On 26 May Tendi of TAG Nepal organized a yak, which Barber used to ride to BC. At Chinese BC a car of the CTMA took him to Shigatse and then Lhasa and then he flew to Kathmandu on 28 May.

  In Kathmandu, he went to CIWEC who examined him. Most of the fluids in his lungs is gone and he is recovering.

  Oxygen:
    Not taken, used from 7900m from Chileans and Alpenglow all the way down to CBC.


  Rahul Gupta (India)

  Term:  Abandoned at 7100m due to snowblindness and exhaustion.


expid: EVER16105
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Netherlands
leaders: Arnold Coster
sponsor: Arnold Coster Expeditions Everest 2016
countries: Australia, Canada, Nepal, Poland
approach: Lukla->Namche->Dingboche->Lobuje->Everest BC
bcdate: 2016-04-20
smtdate: 2016-05-20
smttime: 0345
termdate: 2016-05-22
campsites: BC(20/04,5350m),C1(27/04,6000m),C2(28/04,6300m),C3(18/05,7100m),C4(19/05,7900m),Smt(20/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  20/04  5350m
  C1  27/04  6000m
  C2  28/04  6300m
  C3  18/05  7100m
  C4  19/05  7900m

  (as reported by Arnold Coster)
  Smt 20/05 by McDonald and Karma Sherpa at 3:45 am; Maya Sherpa, Tashi, 
            Changba Sherpa, Pontinen at 5:30 am; van Buren and [Mingma] Norbu
            at 7:15 am; Eric Arnold, Pasang [Gyaljen], Van den Broeke, 
            Mingma Tenduk and Karsang Dawa at 8 am; Gropel and Dorjee at 9 am.

  STRYDOM (reported by Arnold Coster)

  At 8 am Coster got a radio call from Pemba Tenduk, who told him that Strydom was very slow. Coster talked to her on the radio and told her to go down. It took her 12-1/2 hours to the South Summit. At first she refused, but after a while she told him that she would descend. She was with Pemba Tenduk and Nim Dorjee Sherpa. Coster did not hear anything from her for another 2 hours. Von Buren radioed Coster between the South Summit and the Hillary Step at about 10 am and told him that Strydom was doing pretty badly. When Strydom's husband Gropel met his wife at the South Summit he convinced her to go down. Coster spoke to Gropel at the South Summit at about 11 am. Gropel told him that Strydom was very unwell and at about 11:30 am Gropel gave her dexamethasone injections. Gropel injected her with a shot
  of dex every 4 hours. Van den Broeke, Van Buren, Arnold plus their Sherpas were all on the South Summit at the time.

  At about 3 pm Coster sent up another Sherpa (Nima Lama) with spare oxygen for Strydom (she was on 4 litres). They were at the Balcony at the time. Strydom was suffering from severe HACE and was trying to run away. Nim Dorjee, Pemba Tenduk and Pemba (the guy who carried oxygen up to Arnold) tied her up in the end and dragged her down to C4, where they arrived at 2 am on 21 May. Gropel had reached C4 at about midnight.

  Coster had never seen a case of HACE that was that severe. He gave Strydom 12 mg of Dex every 4 hours. The team kept Strydom awake all night and gave her dex and food and the next morning she was able to stand up on her own, and walk with assistance. The team (Strydom, Gropel, Arnold, Van de Broeke) left C4 at 8 am. Strydom was able to walk and abseiled down the Geneva spur with assistance. Still on the Geneva Spur, she slipped and fell into the fixed rope and died at that point. It was about 10:30 am. They left her on the Geneva Spur just on the side at about 7800m. They went down to bring Gropel to safety as he was obviously very upset. They reached C2 at about 7 pm. Spent the night at C2 and on 22 May Gropel was evacuated by helicopter to BC and then to Kathmandu.

  All other members at BC.

  ERIC ARNOLD (reported by Coster):

  On his summit bid, Eric Arnold left the South Col at 7 pm on 19 May. At 6:30 am Pasang radioed Coster from the Hillary Step telling him that Arnold was suffering from stomach cramps. Coster talked to Arnold and thought that he seemed fine and was not worried about him. On the descent Pasang called Coster again after they had left Strydom at about 11:30 am. He said that Arnold was very slow and Coster told him to crank up the oxygen to 4 liters to get him down faster. Arnold descended and at about 3 pm when he was halfway down the Balcony he ran out of oxygen. This is when Coster sent Pemba Sherpa up to bring some oxygen up to Arnold; Pemba Sherpa gave Arnold the oxygen and then continued up to help Strydom. Arnold was without oxygen for about 30 minutes, but he was able to descend on his own and arrived at C4 at about 5 pm. He went to see Coster and told him that he had trouble breathing. His throat was swollen; however, his oxygen saturation was at 85%. Coster did not think there were any signs of HACE as he seemed clear in his mind. As he was very exhausted Coster told him to go to his tent and eat and drink something and gain some strength. Arnold went to his tent at about 6:30 pm. Van Buren joined him there later. Arnold must have died at about 9 pm. They left him in the tent and the next morning they took him to the big rock at the South Col to bury him.

  On 22 May everyone was back down at BC. On 23 May everyone left BC by helicopter either to Lukla or to Kathmandu. Coster stayed with the Sherpas. 

  On 23 May all of Coster's Sherpas left BC at 10 pm to ascend to C2. They rested there for about 4 hours and continued to the South Col. On 24 May the Sherpas got Strydom down to above the Yellow Band and Arnold down to C3. They got there at about midnight. Sherpas left body there and went down to C2. On 25 May they ascended again to C3 to pick up Arnold's body and brought him down to the bottom of the Lhotse Face. The weather was bad and the heli could not pick him up on that day and had to return on 26 May to finally pick up Arnold's body.

  Coster left BC on 25 May with the first helicopter that did not manage to pick up Arnold to Lukla to start official procedures about the two fatalities. On 26 May he flew back to Kathmandu with Arnold's body

  On 26 May the same group of Sherpas went back up to the Yellow Band from C2, picked up Strydom's body and got her to the bottom of the Lhotse face. She was picked up by heli on 27 May.

  Autopsy for Arnold showed no cause of death.


  (as reported by Grace McDonald)
  Smt 20/05  by McDonald and Karma Sherpa at 3:45 am; Maya Sherpa, Tashi, Gropel,
             Pontinen and Pemba at 5 am; Niels and Norbu at 6:30 am; Eric Arnold 
             and Pasang at 7:30 am; Pieter at 8 am.

  Summit team and Strydom left C4 at 7 pm on 19 May. 

  On her way down, McDonald saw Strydom and Gropel (married couple) at 5 am not even halfway up to the South Summit. Strydom seemed fine at that point. She talked clearly and congratulated McDonald on her summit success. Gropel was not wearing his oxygen mask properly. The pair continued up. 

  All summiteers stayed at C4 apart from McDonald, Pontinen, who went to C2. Van Buren descended to C3.

  STRYDOM (As reported by Gropel to Grace McDonald):

  At the South Summit Gropel and Strydom decided that he would go up and she would go down as she was not feeling well.

  (As reported by a Sherpa to McDonald): Strydom refused to go down from the summit and got as far as the Hillary Step. Coming down from the summit, Gropel met Strydom at the Hillary Step. They descended to the South Summit, where Strydom started to have HACE. Apparently she was scared of the Sherpas and was trying to get away from them. Gropel radioed Coster and said he needed a rescue. Coster told them that she needed dexamethasone, so Gropel gave her Dex. They got her down to C4 at 2 am on 21 May. Coster, who had been at C4 all the time, gave her Dex injections, which made her feel better. She was lucid and talking and the team had the feeling that they had "brought her back." After having spent the night at the South Col, and the whole team started to descend, but when they reached the Geneva Spur, Strydom collapsed and died. Body recovered by now. Everyone went back to C2. 

  ERIC ARNOLD (As reported by Gropel to Grace McDonald):

  Eric Arnold was feeling sick on the way up. On summit day he left a bit ahead of the rest of the group at 6:30 am. He sat down just below the Balcony and was obviously not feeling well. He was suffering from stomach cramps and stayed there for a while. After he had reached the summit McDonald met Arnold, Van den Broeke and Van Buren. Arnold was going a lot slower than his usual pace. Van Buren had stopped to help with Strydom, and Arnold overtook them. Now below the Balcony Van Buren saw Arnold sitting there and they had a chat. Arnold seemed fine but only reached C4 at 4 pm. He went into a tent with Van den Broeke. Coster talked to Arnold and urged him to go down to C2, but Arnold was too tired. He refused to eat or drink. He lay down in the tent with Van den Broeke. At about 6 am Van den Broeke called Coster and said that Arnold had died. Nobody thought that he was that bad. According to his Sherpa Pasang, Arnold had run out of oxygen just above C4.


  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members; from C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.


expid: EVER16106
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Song Yu-Jiang
sponsor: Chinese Everest South Expedition 2016
smtdate: 2016-05-16
campsites: Smt(16/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  Reports from Chinese media state that all seven members of this team summited:

    Song Yu-Jiang
    Gao Yu-Hai
    Wang Yin-Long
    Wang Yuan
    Ms. Xie Erwen
    Xu Gang
    Zi Bei-Lei

  Ministry of Tourism listed 10 Sherpas as summiting with Song Yu-Jiang and Zhang Wei teams on 16 May and are divided between teams as:

    Nada Sherpa, Makalu-9, 11/10/92
    Danuru Sherpa, Domane-9, 24/11/78
    Phurtenji Sherpa, Makalu-5, 22/04/97
    Pas Temba Sherpa, Makalu-5, 22/02/98
    Ang Phurba Sherpa, Makalu-9, 19/04/92
    Karma Gyalzen Sherpa, Makalu-9, 04/09/83
    Halung Dorchi (aka Sanu Sherpa), Makalu-9


expid: EVER16108
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Wangchen Sonam
sponsor: Holy Mountain Adventure Everest Expedition 2016
smtdate: 2016-05-19
smttime: 0545
campsites: BC,ABC(6500m),C1(7028m),C2(7790m),C3(8300m),Smt(19-20/05)
agency: Holy Mountain Adventure
routememo:
  14 Chinese clients and 22 Tibetan assistants summited on 19 and 20 May in two group of seven clients each. The summiters were:

    Fang Yan (F)
    Li Ya-Ting (M)
    Bi Ming-Xia (F)
    Xue Wei (M)
    Cheng Li-Lan (M)
    Tang Fu-Ping (M)
    Zhang Ling-Ling (F?)
    Liu Zheng (M)
    Liu Ying (M)
    Zhao Hong-Lin (M)
    Sang Wei-Dong (M?)
    Kang Kai (M)
    Liu Ji-Guang (M)
    Han Zi-Jun (F)

  Four of the above were female.

  Two Tibetan assistants, Tashi Phuntsok and Tashi Tsering, summited for the 11th time.


expid: EVER16107
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: China
leaders: Zhang Wei
sponsor: Chinese Dream Everest Expedition 2016
approach: Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Everest BC
bcdate: 2016-04-19
smtdate: 2016-05-15
smttime: 0600
termdate: 2016-05-22
campsites: BC(19/04,5350m),C2(25/04,6400m),C3(13/05,7100m),C(14/05,7900m),Smt(15-16,19/05)
agency: Seven Summit Treks
routememo:
  BC  19/04  5350m
  C1  -----  -----
  C2  25/04  6400m
  C3  13/05  7100m
  C4  14/05  7900m
  Smt 15/05  by Zhang Jing-Chuan, Mingma Tendu at 6 am
  Smt 16/05  by Zhu Qian + one Sherpa at 9 am
  Smt 19/05  by Cao Shu-Ping, Dong Gui-Jun at 2:30 am; Liu Yong, Renje Lhakpa, 
             Lhakpa, Sonam at 8 am.

  On 14 May, the whole team arrived at South Col. Zhang Wei wanted to go without oxygen, but it was too windy for him. The whole team apart from Zhang Jing-Chuan descended to C2 due to the high winds. Zhang Jing-Chuan stayed and left C4 at 9 pm on 14 May and returned to C4 at 11:30 am and descended to C2 the same day.

  16 May summit team left C4 at 8 pm and returned to C4 in the afternoon. Zhu stayed at C4.

  19 May summit team left C4 at 7:30 pm on 18 May and returned to C4 at 1 pm. Whole team spent night at C2.

  After the first summit push, Zhang Wei decided to abandon the expedition as he wanted to climb without oxygen.	

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used from C3 to summit to C3 by members (apart from Zhang Wei)
    Used by Sherpas from C4 to summit to C4.


  Reports from Chinese media state that all five members of this team summited:

    Zhang Jing-Chuan
    Liu Yong
    Zhu Qian
    Dong Gui-Jun
    Ms. Cao Shu-Ping

  Chinese media also gave the names of Hua Zi and Xin Gui instead of Zhu Qian and Dong Gui-Jun as summiters.

  Ministry of Tourism gives 10 Sherpas as summiting with Song Yu-Jiang and Zhang Jing-Chaun teams on 16 May and are divided between teams as:

    Sona [Chhiri] Sherpa, Makalu-9, 26/08/89
    Renje Lhakpa Sherpa, Makalu-5, 17/02/88
    Lakpa Nuru Sherpa, Makalu-5, 14/02/83


expid: EVER16109
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Dan Mazur
sponsor: SummitClimb Everest Expedition 2016
countries: UK
bcdate: 2016-04-16
smtdate: 2016-05-19
smttime: 0915
termdate: 2016-05-30
othersmts: Attempted Lhotse (LHOT-161-04)
campsites: BC(16/04,5350m),C1(23/04,6100m),C2(26/04,6473m),C3(30/04,7100m),C4(14/05,7950m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  BC  16/04  5350m
  C1  23/04  6100m
  C2  26/04  6473m	
  C3  30/04  7100m	
  C4  14/05  7950m
  Smt 19/05  Fairman at 11 am, Gorska at 9:30 am, Grieve at 9:15 am, Leonard at 
             10:45 am, Jangbu Sherpa, Lhakpa Nuru, Sange Sherpa summited between 
             9:15 am and 11 am.

  Gorska and Grieve reached C4 on 14 May. They intended to take one rest day and then summit on 16 May; however, the weather was bad and did not improve for 3 days, so they ended up staying there for four nights. Fairman and Leonard arrived at C4 on 16 May.

  Summit team set out at 7:30 pm on 18 May. Straightforward climb. Average of 15 minutes on the summit and all descended to C4, where they arrived at 6 pm. On 20 May they descended to C2 and 21 May at BC. 

  Binns reached 8400m on 22 May. He helped some Indians who were in distress and assisted them back to C4. For this reason he abandoned his summit attempt. 

  Ervin and Kashouh reached the South Summit (8690m) on 22 May. The weather was too bad and they descended to C4, where they stayed the night. 

  Krajc reached C2 on 26 April. He abandoned the expedition on 3 May as he was not prepared to climb the mountain.

  Mazur reached C4 on 20 May. Due to the fact that they had used a lot of oxygen for the members who stayed at C4 for four nights, there was not enough left for Mazur to go to the summit.

  Oxygen:
    From C2 to top to C2 by Leonard
    From C3 to top to C3 by other members and Sherpas

  Sherpas:
    Jangbu, Patle, Okhaldhunga, 24/05/1967
    Lhakpa Nuru, Phakding, Khumbu, 21/08/1981
    Sange, Dinding, Makalu-Barun, 21/05/1971


expid: EVER16110
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: N Col-NE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: David O'Brien
sponsor: SummitClimb Everest North Expedition 2016
countries: Germany, Ireland, Sweden, UK
bcdate: 2016-04-21
smtdate: 2016-05-23
smttime: 0845
termdate: 2016-05-30
campsites: BC(21/04,4900m),ABC(28/04,6400m),C1(08/05,7000m),C2(21/05,7800m),C3(22/05,8300m),Smt(23-24/05)
achievment: Ping Medvigy is 1st active duty US service-woman to summit Everest
agency: Everest Parivar
routememo:
  Summit team left C3 on 23 May at 12:30 am (CST) and summited at 11 am (CST). Summiters were Bergvall, Fable, Landmann, Mortell, O'Brien, von Cramm, Pema Sherpa, Pasang Sherpa, Nawang Sherpa and Gyalje; Roeske and Lhakpa Sherpa at 12:30 pm without oxygen for Roeske. Straightforward climb. Many people on the route. Good and clear weather. Bit of waiting on the Steps. They spent about half an hour on the summit. Everyone apart from Bergvall descended to C3, where they arrived at 6 pm. Bergvall descended all the way to C1, where he also arrived at about 6 pm.

  The second summit team comprised of the PTSD group of Earls, Jukes, Ohlson, Ping Medvigy along with Chhewang Sherpa, Ang Gyalje and Ang Dorje left C3 on 23 May at 11 pm and summited on 24 May at 8 am (CST). They stayed 10 to 15 minutes.

  On the ascent it was calm and light snow. It was cloudy. Ohlsen and Juke descended to C3, where they arrived 10 pm. Ping Medvigy and Earls descended to C3, where they picked up some stuff, and then continued to C2, where they remained for about 2 hours (it was a bad storm). They carried on to C1 and then to ABC, where they arrived at 8:30 pm.

  Straightforward climb, apart from Ohlson, who was suffering from an upset stomach. On the way down the winds picked up and it got very cold. Ohlson was feeling weaker on the way down and Jukes oxygen was leaking. Jukes became quite hypoxic. They descended to C3, where they arrived after dark. On 25 May the two descended from C3 and they were fighting through jet stream winds. It was snowing wet snow and Jukes got very cold fingers. They descended to C1; it took them about 11 hours. On 26 May  they descended to ABC.

  Jukes got frostbite on both hands. He got very cold on his descent from C3 to ABC due to high winds. No amputation needed (grade 2). Mortell frostbite on both middle fingers (grade 1). Von Cramm frostbite on right hand (grade 3); possible amputation on two fingers. Nawang frostbite on both feet (grade 2).

  Hales reached C1 on 9 May. He felt that he had a blood clot in his calf. O'Brien sent him to Shigatse to have it checked out and then on to Lhasa, where the doctors wrongly diagnosed him and said it was not a blood clot. He still went back to the UK on 21 May where the doctors found that he actually had a blood clot.

  Oxygen:
    Roeske did not use oxygen.
    Used from C1 to top to C1/ABC by members.
    Used from C2 to top to C2 by Sherpas.

  PTSD (Post-Traumatic Stress Disorder) Awareness Team:
    Ohlson, Ping Medvigy, Earls, Jukes

  Sherpas:
    Tenji, Patle-6, Okhaldhunga, 01/06/82
    Pema [Rinje] Sherpa (Tenji's brother, Patle-6, Okhaldhunga)
    Ang Pasang, Patle-4, Okhaldhunga, 15/06/1984
    Gelze, Patle, Okhaldhunga, 13/09/1990
    Nawang Nuri, Dhaurkarkha, Patle, Okhaldhunga, 15/05/1979
    Lhakpa Gelu (Lhakpa Gelbu), Thumduk, Beni, Solukhumbu, 13/04/1977 
    Dorje (Ang Dorje), Patle-5, Okhaldhunga, 08/09/1985
    Chhewang Karma, Patle, Okhaldhunga, 28/01/1989
    Gyalzen/Gyalje, Patle-4, Okhaldhunga, 25/01/74


expid: EVER16111
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: USA
leaders: Greg Vernovage
sponsor: International Mountain Guides (IMG) Everest Expedition 2016
countries: Australia, Brazil, Canada, France, Germany, Italy, Japan, Morocco, Sri Lanka, UK
approach: Lukla->Pangboche->Lobuje East
bcdate: 2016-04-10
smtdate: 2016-05-21
smttime: 0403
termdate: 2016-05-25
othersmts: Attempted Lhotse (LHOT-161-11)
campsites: BC(10/04,5350m),C1(12/04,6100m),C2(14/04,6500m),C3(30/04,7300m),C4(20/05,8000m),Smt(21,23/05)
agency: Beyul Adventure
primid: LHOT16111
routememo:
  1st summit team left C4 on 20 May at 9 pm, and summited between 4:03 am and 9:12 am. Most stayed about 20 minutes, then descended to C4, C3, or C2. Straightforward climb.

  2nd summit team left C3 on 22 May at 9 pm, and summited between 4:20 am and 5:32 am. Most stayed about 20 minutes, then descended to C4, C3, or C2.


  IMG Injury Report:

  Minor frostbite by

    Craig Barlow (23 May summit)
    Cristiano Muller (21 May summit)
    Johann Peries (turned around from SE Ridge on 21 May)

  Other injury/accident was one of our Sherpa got hit (on his foot) by a falling oxygen bottle from above on the Lhotse face on 19 May. We had to evacuate him by helicopter to Kathmandu same day. Luckily it turned out to be just a bruise and no broken bones!


expid: EVER16112
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Russell Brice
sponsor: Himalayan Experience (Himex) Everest Expedition 2016
countries: Germany, Japan, Kenya, Netherlands, USA
bcdate: 2016-04-10
smtdate: 2016-05-13
smttime: 0810
termdate: 2016-05-22
campsites: BC(10/04,5267m),C1(28/04,6057m),C2(29/04,6493m),C3(03/05,7249m),C4(12/05,7900m),Smt(13/05)
agency: Mountain Experience
routememo:
  Summit team left C4 on 13 May at 1:25 am, summited between 8:10 am and 9:07 am. Each climber tayed about 30 minutes, then descended to C2 at 4 pm.

  Hardeep Rehsi only went to C2 as he was too slow.


expid: EVER16113
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: New Zealand
leaders: Mike Roberts
sponsor: Adventure Consultants Everest Expedition 2016
countries: Australia, Nepal, Peru, UK, USA
bcdate: 2016-04-12
smtdate: 2016-05-19
smttime: 0652
termdate: 2016-05-22
campsites: BC(12/04,5350m),C1(20/04,6100m),C2(22/05,6400m),C3(17/05,7300m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(19-20/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  BC  12/04  5350m
  C1  20/04  6000m
  C2  22/04  6400m
  C3  17/05  7300m
  C4  18/05  7900m
  Smt 19/05  by Lydia Bradey, Dagg, Gordon, Guard, O'Brady, Roberts, Vasquez Lavado, 
             Da Jangbu, Kami Rita, Chewang Dorji, Nima Nuru, Datuk Bhote, 
             Ngima Rita, Dawa Wangchuk, Phurba Chhoter, Pasang Bhote, Pemba Chhoti,
             Kipa, Chuldim Dorje, Tshering Namgyal and Dawa Bhote from just before
             7 am to 7:45 am.
  Smt 20/05  by Milewski and Ngima Tshering at 6:10 am.

  First summit team left C4 at 10 pm on 18 May. Straightforward climb. Very crowded on the route. It was very lucky that the Hillary Step was more of a slope than a climb and no bottleneck. It could either be that there was just a lot of snow or that the earthquake has changed it. Remains to be seen next year and checked. They spent about 30 minutes on the summit and descended to C2 (O'Brady, Gordon, Chuldim Dorjee and Dagg) where they arrived at 6 pm. The rest of the expedition descended to C4, where they arrived no later than noon. On 20 May everyone down to C2, on 21 May everyone at BC.

  Milewski and Ngima Tshering left C2 at 10 pm on 19 May. Straightforward climb. Arrived at 6:10 am, stayed 20 minutes, then descended to C2, where they arrived at about 5 pm.

  Wells and Hansen reached C2 on 22 April. Wells had respiratory issues and Hansen had a collapsed lung. Wells left BC on 19 May. 

  Hansen was heli-vaced from C2 on 24 April. He had been complaining about lung problems for a while and was then evacuated to Kathmandu. He spent three days in hospital there.

  Mann reached 5600m on 17 April and got pulmonary edema and was evacuated by helicopter on 18 April.

  Oxygen:
    Taken and used C3 to top to C3 by members apart from O'Brady, who used it 
    from C2 to top to C2; C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.

  Sherpas:
    Chuldim Dorje (Ang Dorje) Pangboche, 25/11/1964
    Dawa Jangbu (Da Jangbu) (Pangboche, Khumbu) 22/04/1973
    Kami Rita (Thami, Khumbu) 22/10/1977
    Chewang Dorje (Pangboche, Khumbu) 17/04/1981
    Ngima Nuru (Nima Nuru) (Tesho, Khumbu) 06/11/1981
    Pasang Bhote (Chepuwa-1, Makalu-Barun) 30/11/1973
    Datuk Bhote (Chepuwa-4, Makalu-Barun) 20/10/1988
    Phurba Chhoter (Yilajung, Khumbu) 20/08/1971
    Pemba Chhoti (Thami, Khumbu) 25/11/1972
    Tshering Namgyal (Ang Namgyal) (Pangboche, Khumbu) 14/05/1984 [in error]
    Nima Tshering (Ngima Chhiri) (Phortse, Khumbu) 22/04/1972

  First timers:
    Nima Rita (Phortse) – 1st summit
    Dawa Wongchuk (Lama Tashi’s son from Pangboche) – 1st summit
    Kipa (Solu) - 1st summit
    Dawa Bhote – 1st summit


expid: EVER16115
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Tim Mosedale
sponsor: Tim Mosedale's Everest Expedition 2016
bcdate: 2016-04-16
smtdate: 2016-05-19
smttime: 0715
termdate: 2016-05-21
campsites: BC(16/04,5250m),C1(19/04,6000m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(12/05,7000m),C4(13/05,7950m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Summit team of Mosedale, Chris Bradley, Ptemba Bhote and Jabbu Bhote left C4 on 18 May at 8:15 pm, summited at 7:15 am, stayed 15 minutes, then descended to C2 around 4 pm (they rested at the S Col for an hour or so). Climb was very very busy. Quite cold (partly because of the queues) and even the climbing Sherpas said it was their coldest summit. Long delays for the climbers ascending as we were going down.

  David Bradley didn't proceed beyond Everest BC. Extreme shortness of breath which was later diagnosed by scan in Kathmandu as pulmonary embolisms.

  Hired:
    Chayang Jangbu (Jabbu) Bhote, Makalu
    Ptemba Bhote, Makalu


expid: EVER16116
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: UK
leaders: Kenton Cool
sponsor: Kenton Cool Everest Expedition 2016
bcdate: 2016-04-21
smtdate: 2016-05-12
smttime: 0806
termdate: 2016-05-15
campsites: BC(21/04,5300m),C1(25/04,6000m),C2(26/04,6350m),C3(10/05,7100m),C4(11/05,7950m),Smt(12/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Summit team of Cool, Lucas, Dorje Gyalzen Sherpa and Pimba Bhote left C4 on 11 May at 11:30 pm, summited on 12 May at 8:06 am, stayed 45 minutes, then descended to C4 at 11:30 am. Deep snow slowed progress, but weather conditions perfect with zero wind. Hillary Step bypassed on the right due to amount of snow.

  Oxygen:
    Cool and Lucas from C3 up and down
    Sherpas from C4 up and down

  Sherpas:
    Dorje Gyalgen, Pangboche, 31
    Pemba Bhote, Makalu, 1st Everest summit (used to work for IMG)


expid: EVER16117
peakid: EVER
year: 2016
route1: S Col-SE Ridge
nation: Australia
leaders: Rolfe Oostra
sponsor: 360 Expeditions Everest & Lhotse 2016
countries: UK
approach: Island Peak & Lobuje
bcdate: 2016-04-20
smtdate: 2016-05-19
smttime: 0645
termdate: 2016-05-21
campsites: BC(20/04,5350m),C2(26/04,6475m),C3(02/05,7000m),C4(18/05,7950m),Smt(19/05)
agency: Himalayan Guides
routememo:
  Summit team of Oostra, Bradshaw, Dorje Gyalzen and Kalzang Dorje left C4 on 18 May at 8:30 pm, summited on 19 May at 6:45 am, stayed 15 minutes, then descended to C2 at 2 pm. Very busy and very slow due to crowds. Cold and windy.

  Oxygen:
    From 6,600m to top to C3 by Bradshaw
    From C4 to top to 7900m by Oostra
    From C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas

  Sherpas:
    Dorje Gyalzen, Pangboche, 16/07/82
    Kalzang Dorje, Pangboche, 23/07/81


